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Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

Digitized by tlie Internet Areliive 
in 2013 



http://archive.org/details/bostoncookingsch19hill_6 



THE BOSTON 

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THE 
BOSTON 



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CCDKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 



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VOL 
XII 



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Jvme-Jtily 
1907 



lO^ A COPY 



372 

BOYLSTON ST. 
BOSTON 

MASSACHUSETTS 




$1.00 A YEAR 




Buy advertised goods— Do not accept substitutions. 



The 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Volume XII / ^ 



June- July, 1907 — May, 1908 



Copyright, 1907, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



Published Monthly by 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

Publication Office: 372 Boylston Street 

BOSTON, MASS. /:i ^ 



COMPLETE INDEX, VOL. XII 
June-July, 1907 — May, 1908 



Page 

A Committee of Inqmry 453 

A Cheerful Pair . 191 

A Chemical Conscience 117 

A Garden Study (111.) 443 

A German Small and Early 409 

A Glimpse of Southern Life 436 

A Labor of Love in the Bethel-Zion 

Baptist Church 265 

A Party for Easter Vacation .... 430 

A Piece of Sugar-Cane 12 

A Talk to Young Girls 67 

A Valentine 316 

A War-time Dinner Party 358 

Aboard for Shut-Eye Town 437 

After Breakfast Chat 87 

An Exhortation 15 

Arbutus 456 

August Song 66 

Black-eyed Susans 18 

Bridget's Broth 213 

Children's Perspective 353 

College Presidents and Peanuts . . . 403 

Cook Books and Intuitions 451 

Cookery for Young Housekeepers . 36, 89, 

140, 198, 284, 332, 381, 427, 475 
Deer Island and Its Companions of 

Passamaquoddy Bay 19 

Didn't Mean To 121 

Diet in Childhood, Sickness and Old 

Age 195, 268, 314, 363, 411 

Editorials . . . 22,72,126,174,222,270, 
318,366,414,462 

English Caravanning 143 

Ephemera 57 

Five-cent Lunch at Honolulu Normal 

School 292 

Food Notes in Shantung 155 

For the Amateur House Builder ... 313 

German Ways of Doing Things ... 88 

Hallowe'en 149 

Hallways and Staircases (111.) .... 347 

Her Firsi? Thanksgiving Dinner ... 169 

His Shopping 239 

His Stepmother 162 

His Valentine 312 

Home Ideas and Economies ... 43, 96, 
145, 192, 240, 287, 338, 385, 433, 481 

Housekeeping in Egypt 317 

How Lady Betty was Captured . . . 456 
How Little Jeanne saw "Old Home 

Day" 62 

In Far Japan (111.) 107 

In the Wood 388 

Jime 42 

Life's Mirror 219 

Love's Fragrance 357 

Maids' Parlors 407 

Married or Single 70 

Menus ... 34, 85, 138, 139, 186, 235, 282, 

329, 378, 425, 473 

Menus for Children, Five or Six . . . 331 



Page 

Menus for Christmxas-Tide 236 

Menus for Family of Two ... 33, 84, 187, 

234, 281, 330 
Menus for Little Dinners and Luncheon 

in January 283 

Menus for Occasions (June-July) . . 35 

Menus for September Weddings ... 86 

Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners . . 188 

Menus, Inexpensive 474 

Miss Hetty's Valentine 306 

My Lady Dahha 398 

My Minstrel 403 

Old Bridges of Two Cities (111.) ... 203 

Old-Time Pewter 251 

Opportunity 261 

Overalls and Aprons 167 

Peggy and I go South 460 

Poem, Selected ". . 208 

Quebec in Winter 209 

Sanitary Kitchens (111.) 7 

Some Secrets in French Cookery . 267, 334 

Specialties 263 

The Back- Yard Garden (111.) .... 3 

The Christmas Pudding 211 

The Country of the Red Barns . ... 113 

The Driblet Box 165 

The Ethics of Home-making .... 406 

The Ethics of Pockets 259 

The Guest Room 100 

The House that was to Make People 

Happy 216, 256, 303 

The Ingenuity of Janice 58 

The Pickle Garden 362 

The Place where You Forget Every- 
thing ' 16 

The Plan 448 

The Profession of Housekeeping ... 115 

The Prosaic Broom 119 

The Soup Bed 449 

The Thanksgiving Berry 160 

The Ways of March 384 

The Wind in the East 69 

The Wischnetzky-Porter Kitchenette . 64 

Told Through the Mail 123, 221 

TrelHses (111.) 53 

Tuna Cheese 293 

TwiHght 405 

Unforeseen 10 

Vacations . . . ! 14 

Varied Philanthropy 310 

Veranda Drapery 395 

Ways of Entertaining . . 39, 93, 148, 290 
What Pictures shall We Hang in Our 

Dining-Room 299 

When Patty Cooks . 120 

Who was George Washington . ... 308 

With Tea 142 

Recipes: 

Almond Crisp's (111.) 82 

Almonds, Salted (111.) 326 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Artichoke Bottoms, with Cauliflower 

(111.) 181 

Apples, with Almond Pralin^e (111.) 232 

Asparagus Tips and Bechamel Sauce 468 
Asparagus, with Hollandaise Sauce 

(111.) 420 

A Winter Dessert (111.) 280 

Baskets, Ladyfinger, with Orna- 
mental Icing (111.) 375 

Bass, Baked, with White Wine . . 130 
Beans, Boston Baked, with Bacon 

(111.) 277 

Beans and Pork, Molded with Sau- 
sage (111.) 372 

Beans and Pork, New York Style 

(111.) . 371 

Beef, Larded Fillet of, etc. (111.) . . 181 

Biscuit, Brookhne (111.) 184 

Black Bass (111.) 226 

Bombe Glace, Blood Orange (111.) . 471 
Bombe Glace, Grape Juice, with 

Filling (111.) 376 

Bread, Entire Wheat (111.) .... 81 

Bread Sticks (111.) 469 

Butter,, Maitre d' Hotel 32 

Cabbage au Gratin 374 

Cake, Angel 233 

Cake, Layer 137 

Cake, Madeline Layer 82 

Cake, Newport, with Nut Caramel 

Frosting (111.) 470 

Cake, Newport Tea 472 

Cake, Nut and Raisin 233 

Cake, One-egg Chocolate, with Frost- 
ing 280 

Cake, Our Christmas . 233 

Cake, Prize Recipe of Pound . . . 279 
Cake, Snow, with Strawberry Frost- 
ing (111.) 31 

Cake, Spanish 135 

Cake. Toasted Marshmallow (111.) . 233 

Cakes, Cereal Griddle ...... 181 

Cakes, Flower (111.) ....... 375 

Cakes, Honey (111.) 423 

Cakes, Paradise 185 

Cakes, Tiny Cream (111.) 135 

CauHflower au Gratin (111.) .... 133 

CauHflower, Boiled (111.) 182 

Cauliflower, Canned (111.) ..... 182 
Celery, Creamed with Toast Points 

(111.) 183 

Charlotte Russe for Two (111.) . . . 82 

Charlotte Russe, Raspberry .... 279 

Cheese, Savory 377 

Chicken, Breast of (111.) ..... 230 

Chicken, Loaf with Asparagus (111.) 468 

Chicken, Moulded (111.) 275 

Chicken, Moulded with Aspic (111.) 469 

Chicken, Planked (111.) 180 

Chicken, Roast, with Bread Stuffing 

(111.) 180 

Chowder, Scallop 225 

Cocktail, Orange and Strawberry . 417 

Cocktail, Pear and Ginger (111.) . . 129 

Cocktail, Scallop 321 

Cod or Haddock, Baked, with To- 
mato Sauce 373 

Coffee, Creole 137 

Cookies, Honey Drop 185 



Page 

Cookies, Oats, Fruit-and-Nut . . . 233 

Com, Creamed au Gratin 81 

Crab, Mousse (111.) 274 

Crabs, Delaware, Deviled 131 

Cream, Blackberry, Bavarian (111.) . 135 

Cream, Chestnut, Bavarian (111.) . . 135' 

Cream, English (111.) 135 

Croquettes, Rice (111.) 231 

Croquettes, Salmon, in Potato Nests 

(111.) 26 

Croutons, Genoese Fashion .... 177 

Cucumbers, Puree of 75 

Cucumbers, Stuffed (111.) 78- 

Custard, Steamed (111.) 422 

Cutlets, Lamb a la Soubise, with 

Sauce (111.) 419 

Cutlets, Tenderloin, Filippini ... 28 

Dates, Stuffed 279 

Dressing, French 420 

Dumplings, Apple 279 

Eggs, Guinea Hens', in Aspic Jelly 

(111.) 22S 

Egg Plant, Scalloped . 135 

Fillet Mignons, with Potatoes Anna 

(111.) 274 

Filling for Charlotte Russe .... 472 

Filling for Chicken Patties .... 469 

Finnan Haddie k la Newburg . . . 322 
Fish, Turbans of Fried, in Batter 

(111.) . 273 

Flakes, Crab-Meat, for Patties ... 418 

Fritters, Apple, English Style ... 327 
Fritters, Canned Pineapple, with 

Sauce 277 

Fritters, Com 180 

Fritters, Parsnip 377 

Fruit, Macedoine of Midwinter (111.) 327 

Fruit Sponge (111.) 472 

Griddle Cakes, Com Meal 469 

HaHbut, Boiled, Christmas Style . 227 

Ham and Macaroni Timbales (111.) 276 

Ham, Creamed, with Poached Eggs 275 
Ham, Rechaufee of, with Boiled 

Apples (111.) 276 

Hash, Creole Style 468 

Hash, Corned Beef or Lamb, with 

Poached Eggs (111.) 322 

Hash, Creole 424 

Hors d'oeuvre, Italian Style (111.) . 25 

Hors d'oeuvre, Scandinavian (111*) . 76 

Ice Cream, Peach, for Two (111.) . . 83 
Jelly, Tomato, with Celery Salad 

(111.) 188 

Jelly, Sweet Pickle (111.) 132 

Junket, Caramel (111.) 32 

Junket, Chocolate 32 

Junket, Plain, with Whipped Cream 32 
Lamb Balls, with Rice, Greek Fash- 
ion (111.) 370 

Lamb, Broiled (111.) 229 

Lamb, Boned Leg of (111.) .... 131 

Lamb, Creamed Forequarter of . . 322 

Lamb, Curry of, in Rice Border (111.) 469 
Lamb, Hashed, with Rice and Peas 

(111.) 322 

Lamb, Rechaufee, Creole Style . . 469 

Lemonade, Grape Juice . ' . . . . 377 
Lettuce, Braised, with Green Peas 

(111.) 79 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Lettuce on Toast 80 

Liver, Braised Calf's (111.) 77 

Livers, Chicken, Sauted with Cu- 

cumlDers 79 

Macaroni, Baked with Cheese , . . 377 

Macaroni for Luncheon or Supper . 325 

Mackerel, Salt, Cooked in Milk . . 417 
Mousse, Chicken, with Pite de foie 

gras (111.) 27 

Mousse, Truffled Fish (111.) .... 418 

Muffins, Rich EngHsh 325 

Muffins, Rye Flour 81 

Mushrooms, Broiled on Toast (111.) 466 

Omelet, Asparagus (111.) 421 

Omelet, Sausage 324 

Onions, Browned 419 

Orange Marmalade 328 

Oyster, Bisque of 177 

Oysters and Celery au Gratin . . . 178 

Parfait, Golden, with Fruit (111.) . . 184 

Peach Mangoes 83 

Peas, Green, with Lettuce .... 80 

Peppers, Sweet, Green 78 

Pickerel, Fried (111.) 178 

Pie, Chicken (111.) 230 

Pie, Mother's Apple (111.) 137 

Pie, Veal Pot, Baked, Dumphngs 

(111.) 371 

Potatoes, Curried 324 

Potatoes, Delmonico, with Cheese . 374 

Potatoes, Hashed in Ramequin . . 277 

Potatoes, Melting 324 

Potatoes, New, Fried (111.) .... 28 

Potatoes, Saratoga (111.) 28 

Potatoes, Scalloped 134 

Potato, Mashed, for Fried Fish . . 274 

Pudding, Baked Indian 377 

Pudding, Steamed Chocolate, with 

Sultana Sauce 280 

Pudding, Steamed Prune 423 

Pudding, Thanksgiving 185 

Pimch, Creme de Menthe 136 

Rice, Boiled 467 

Rice, Curried 180 

Roast, Hamburg 27 

Roes, Shad, Baked in Tomato Sauce 418 

Roll, Sponge Fruit 137 

Rolls, Lady Finger (111.) 132 

Rolls, Rasped (111.) 278 

Salad, Canton, with Boiled Dressing 

(111.) 83 

Salad, Chicken (111.) 229 

Salad, Chicken, Spring Style (111.) . 372 

Salad, Cucimiber-and-Radish (111.) . 420 

Salad, Fresh Macedoine (111.) ... 134 

Salad, Lima Bean 372 

Salad, Orange, Chestnut and Raisin 

(111.) 327 

Salad, Rutabaga Turnip 231 

Salad, Sweetbread, in Cucumber 

Boats (111.) 29 

Salmon, Baked in Wine (111.) ... 76 

Salmon, Boiled with Vegetables . . 465 

Salmon, Individual, Souffle of (111.) . 76 

Salmon Steaks, Baked with Mush- i 

rooms (111.) 466 

Salmon Steak for Two (111.) .... 76 

Samp, Baltimore, with Cheese (111.) 421 

Sandwich, Cold Baked Bean (111.) . 277 



Page 
Sardines for Hors d'ceuvre Service 

(111.) 25 

Sardines, Newburg Style 130 

Sauce, Bemaise . 28, 277 

Sauce, Hollandaise 182 

Sauce, Raspberry, Hard 279 

Sauce, Spanish 274 

Sauce, Tomato 179, 276 

Scallops and Bacon 321 

Sherbet, Grape Juice (111.) .... 377 

Sherbet, Peach 83 

Snipe, Roast (111.) 181 

Soup, Chicken-and-Tomato .... 465 
Soup, Clam, Philadelphia Style . . 129 
Soup, Cream of Asparagus .... 25 
Soup, Cream of Asparagus and To- 
mato 417 

Soup, Cream of Celery ...... 321 

Soup, Cream of Chicken 322 

Soup, Cream of Com and Tomato . 273 

Soup, Cream of Dried Mushroom . 465 

Soup, Cream of Pearl Barley ... 26 

Soup, Cream of Spaghetti 369 

Soup, Cream of Tomato 75 

Soup, Oyster, for Two 178 

Soup, Puree of SpHt Pea ...".. 369 

Squash, Stuffed au Gratin (111.) . . 133 

Strawberry Cup (111.) 29 

Strawberry Parfait, with Orange 

Sherbet (111.) 30 

Strawberry Trifle (111.) 30 

Strawberry Tarts (111.) 31 

Tamales, Mexican (111.) 228 

Tarts, Peach (111.) 422 

Timbale Cases, Swedish (111.) ... 132 

Toast, Canned Pineapple 327 

Toast, Cheese, with Bacon (111.) . . 325 

Toast, French, with Peaches (111.) . 82 

Tomatoes and Com, stewed .... 81 

Tomatoes, Stuffed 181 

Turnips, Rutabaga, au Gratin . . . 230 

Turnovers, Apple (111.) 375 

Wafers, Pecan-nut (111.) 424 

Queries and Answers: 

Artichokes, Jerusalem 488 

Beans, Boston Baked 296 

Beef, Economical Cuts of 47 

Beets, Canning Young 48 

Bouchees 486 

Bouillon, Iced 151 

Brownies 343 

Bread, Currant 102 

Bread, Dark Graham 390 

Bread, Entire Wheat 344 

Bread, French 295 

Bread, Graham 344 

Cake, Angel, by weight 50 

Cake, Angel, with Chocolate ... 48 

Cake, Baking of 199 

Cake, Burnt Sugar, with Frosting . 342 

Cake, Caramel, with FilHng .... 342 

Cake, Fine-grained 50 

Cake, Golden Rod 343 

Cake, Lady Baltimore 487 

Cake, Newport 390 

Cake, Orange Sponge 50 

Cakes, Com Meal Griddle 200 

Celery, Serving of 391 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Cherry Bisque, with Rum .... 101 

Chicken Marengo 343 

Chicken, Planked 150 

Chop Suey 48 

Cookies, Oatmeal 389 

Cookies, Rich, with Caraway Seeds . 150 

Cookies, Thick White 390 

Cookies, Thin Brittle 102 

Cookies, Soft Ginger 104 

Corn, Pickled Sweet 247 

Cream, Whipped Thin 247 

Curry of Chicken and Celery . . . 485 

Custard, Cheese 343 

Dishes, Use and Care of Aluminum . 199 

Dressing, Mayonnaise, quick made . 200 

Dressing, Regarding Mayonnaise . 344 

Dressing, Regarding Salad .... 487 

Doughnuts 439 

Eggs, Hard, k la Dreux 439 

Eggs, in Cocottes, a la Reine . . . 439 

Eggs, Stuffed, Italian Style .... 439 

Fats, Conservation and Use of . . 247 

Filling, Caramel 200 

Fining for Maple Sugar Cake ... 102 

Fish, Scalloped 486 

Food, Profit on Home-made . . . 390 

Frappe 152 

Frosting, Maple 102 

Fudge, Maple 486 

Gingerbread, Rochester 389 

Gnocchi a la Romain ....... 296 

Grape Juice 198 

'^■^apes. Spiced 198 

'.iddle Cakes, Sour Cream .... 104 

iMlibutLoaf 102 

[j';vitation. Form of Luncheon . . . 103 

felly, Aspic, without Gelatine . . . 247 

jelly, Cucumber 487 

Jelly, Grape-fruit 487 

Jelly, New Way of making Plum . 247 

Jelly, Sherry Wine 101 

Jelly, Wild Plum 152 

Kidneys, Cooking of 392 

Lamb, Boned Loin 47 

Liver, Baked 150 

Lobster, Stuffed and Deviled ... 151 

Macaroons, Oatmeal 389 

Mackerel, Halibut and Salmon, 

Salted 248 

Menu for Formal Dinner 391 

Meringues 48 

Milk, Curdling of, in Macaroni and 

Cheese 392 

Muffins, Graham 440 

Muffins, White 440 



Page 

Mushrooms, Canning of ..... 199 

Mushrooms, Pickled 198 

Noodles 392 

Omelet, Celestine 151 

Omelet, Creamy 438 

Omelet, with Mushroom Sauce . . 439 

Oysters, Scalloped with Wine. ... 101 

Pancakes, French 439 

Parsley for Decorating ...... 152 

Patty Shells 152 

Pecan Sticks 440 

Pie, Chess 343 

Pie Crust, Plain 199 

Pie, Custard 199 

Pig, Suckling, Roasted 295 

Pineapple, Canning of 152 

Potatoes au Gratin 50 

Potatoes, Crisp French Fried . . . 488 

Potatoes, Lyonnaise 49 

Potatoes, O'Brien 49 

Preserves, Cumquat Orange .... 389 

Preserves, Sunshine 151 

Prune Parfait 49 

Prune Pie 49 

Prune Souffle 49 

Prunes, Stewed, etc 49 

Pudding, Banana Caramel .... 342 

Punch, Roman 485 

Rabbit, Baked Bean 296 

Rabbit, Tomato 296 

Rice, How to Boil 248 

Roll, Chocolate 486 

Salad, Egyptian, Pekin and Rice . 50 

Salad, Rice 199 

Salad, with Turkey 344 

Salt Shakers 199 

Sandwiches, Sardines, Lamb and 

Mint 103 

Sauce, Almond 103 

Sauce, Chocolate 101 

Sauce, Foamy 101 

Sauce, Hot Vanilla 101 

Sauce, Vinaigrette 102 

Soup, Mitounee 103 

Soup, Okra 200 

Spices, Blending of 247 

Sponge, Pineapple 486 

Stew, Irish, from Lamb Chops . , 150 

Sugar, Home-made Carameled . . 49 

Sweetbreads, Alice 390 

Syrup, Cocoa 103 

Tartlets, Apricot, with Meringue . . 438 

Tomatoes, Canned 104 

Tomato Rabbit 485 

Viscogen to Thicken Cream .... 341 




June 



By JUDITH GIDDINGS 

Meadows white with daisies; Hum of summer in the air, 

Skies of brilliant blue; Grass beneath your feet, 

Nodding buttercups of gold; . Butterflies and honey-bees 

Roses, every hue! In the clover sweet. 




TABLE LAID FOR LUNCHEON WITH POND-LILY DECORATION 




TABLE LAID FOR LUNCHEON WITH SWEET-PEA DECORATION 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XII. 



June- July 



No. I. 



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Stepping Stones in a Back-yard Garden 



The Back-yard Garden and its Usefulness 



Bv MARY H. NORTHEND 



IN beautifying the home and its sur- 
roundings, there is one place frequently 
overlooked by the busy housewife, for, 
while the velvety lawns with their formal 
flower beds are carefully attended to, the 
little back-yard is left bare and neglected. 
Few but the busy housewife herself see this 
spot, and the size, as well as the situation, 
seems to preclude any attempt to render it 
more sightly, so that she excuses herself 
from further thought about the matter by 
keeping it comparatively clean and tidy. 



Many of the hindrances which seem to 
confront the would-be-gardener, however, 
render her task more simple and easy to 
accomplish. The limited scope it presents 
for planting does away with the need of a 
large amount of seed or plants, and aids the 
gardener by limiting the choice to a few of 
the hardier varieties of flowers, whicli re- 
quire but little care. Annuals are really 
the best choice for this garden, and by mark- 
ing the choicest blossoms for seed, that 
item of expense is eliminated from year to 



4 



THE BOST(3N COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



year. Bulbs, though blooming early and 
producing exquisite flowers, should be ex- 
cluded from the list of plants for the back- 
yard garden, as they require considerable 
care both spring and fall, and few of them 
can be relied upon for more than two years 
at most. The real object of the gardener, 
who takes the back-yard as his field, is 
beauty carefully combined with economy 
in time and expense. 

Generally there is a fence of some kind, 
enclosing the space, which should be cov- 
ered to form a pretty background for the 
vividly colored blossoms, audit must be the 
primary consideration in the garden scheme. 
If sunlight will permit, sweet peas are an 
admirable vine to train over the tence, and 
other flowering plants, which will serve 
equally as well, are the cypress vine, 
morning-glory, moonflower, all of which 
are suited for the purpose, both on ac- 
count of their dense foHage and their 
attractive blossoms. A trench about four 
inches wide, far enough out from the fence 
to give the tiny plants free growth, is pre- 
pared for the seed, which should be sown 
quite thickly, and thinned out when the 
plants are from two to four inches high. 

Any attempt at elaborate design, would 
be folly in so small a place, but two colors, 



for instance, can be chosen to work a very 
pretty color scheme, which will succeed 
much better than a number of mixed flow- 
ers of all hues. A garden that carried out 
this idea cleverly, was planted in red and 
white. Morning-glory vines covered the 
picket fence, two varieties of white show- 
ing flower, and immediately below the vines 
a row of sweet alyssum flourished. A walk 
divided the small space leading to the gate, 
and this, also, had a border of sweet alyssum, 
which, from year to year, resowed itself, 
producing an endless profusion of blossoms. 
Two oval beds of flowers were on each 
side of the walk at the end of the garden, 
and were filled with petunias. Not only 
did these flowers shoAv the clear white and 
red, but there were star petunias, whose 
center of white gleamed like a star against 
the deep red background. These flowers 
also resow themselves, though it is advisable 
to replant them once in three or four years, 
as they become mottled and striped in a 
variety of shades. 

Near the door, two other flower beds 
occupied the space, and in them were a 
variety of red and white pansies, a blossom 
most popular not only for its loveHness, but 
for its long season of bloom and the ease 
with which it may be raised from seed. A 



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Entrance to a Garden at Magnolia, Mass. 



THE BACK- YARD GARDEN 



5 



border of dwarf nasturtiums with bright 
red blossoms, next the alyssum which 
bordered the wallv, com- 
pleted the garden, whose 
sole care from year 
to year was the weeding 
of over-abundance of self- 
sown seedlings, and an oc- 
casional replanting, when 
the varieties became 
badly mixed, though, as a 
rule, the mixing serves to 
increase, rather than to 
lessen the beauty. 

There are many, how- 
ever, who would prefer 
to expend more time up- 
on the garden, in order 
to have a larger variety 
of flowers, and who like 
a mixture of colors such 
as the old-fashioned gar- 
dens of Colonial days showed. These were 
really halcyon days for the back-yard gar- 
den. In the villages and towns, the Colo- 
nists built their houses close to the street, 
without the extensive lawns that mark the 
estates of the present day, and in the large 
grounds at the rear of the mansion they 
combined lawn and garden. 

There was a delightful privacy in the old 
gardens that lay in the rear of the house, 
and a summer afternoon could be spent in 
the cool summer-house undisturbed by 
curious street gazers. The back-yard gar- 
den, then, belonged solely to the owner, 
who delighted in filling it with the choicest 
flowers that he could obtain, and who very 
often tended it with his own hands, finding 
in it the recreation and out-door exercise 
which the business man requires. 

The trellis and summer-house were always 
a part of the back-yard garden in Colonial 
times. Then too, the sundial stood in the 
garden, and around it low flowers were 
planted so as to make it really the center of 
a huge circular flower bed. Over the 
trellis, which is now used to support the 
rambler rose, the broad-leaved Dutchman's 
pipe twined itself, affording a leafy screen 
to seclude the summer-house from the view 



of any who might pass by its entrance, as 
well as to shut off the sun. Bulbs of vari- 




Ground Piazza in a Back-yard 



ous kinds played a prominent part in the 
old-fashioned garden, hyacinths, lihes, 
tulips, narcissus and daffodils, occupying 
the sunnier part of the space allotted to 
them, while in the shade, the lily-of-the-val- 
ley always found a place where, from year 
to year, it blossomed undisturbed. 

The Colonial back-yard garden was not a 
tiny spot, which, had it not been a neces- 
sity, would have been eliminated from the 
estate, but one of the most prominent fea- 
tures of the place, containing room enough 
to accomodate the many flowers that were 
dear to the owner's heart. There was 
free scope to carry out the fanciful designs 
and the many features that made them at 
once beautiful and interesting. Now, how- 
ever, the conditions are changed, and 
though at the front of the house, elabor- 
ately planned flowerbeds and clipped lawns 
are in evidence, in the tiny space, which 
the kitchen door opens on, every inch must 
be made to account advantageously, if good 
results are to be accomplished. Instead of 
the many flowers that might be used, the 
choice is gradually narrowed as the size of 
the garden is decreased, and there remain 
but few which will adapt themselves to the 
soil and amount of light that the tiny space 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



affords. 

Prettiest among back-yard gardens at the 
present day, are doubtless the ones that 
remain almost the same as when they were 
planted by their early owners with peonies, 
bulbs, lilacs, shrubs and all of the long- 
lived flowers that endure from year to year. 
Behind the old Colonial houses, many of 
which antedate the Revolution, may be 
found gardens of this description, and their 
owners delight in keeping them nearly as 
they were when first laid out. Long rows 
of lilacs, with their dusky purple plumes, 
grow along the fences, box-bordered paths 
run through the center, and prim flower 
be Is, arranged with mathematical precision, 
occupy the space that is carefully broken 
by the summer-house, or pergola, and the 
trellis. It is the methodical manner in 
which the old gardens were laid out that, per- 
haps, more than anything else, constitutes 
the vivid contrast between them and the 
present gardens, where flowers bloom un- 
confined by special boundaries. 

Gardening has undergone decided 
changes since the laying out of the old, 
formal garden, and present conditions seem 
absolutely to forbid the back-yard garden 
being other than small and unpretentious. 
Probably, one of the very least of such gar- 
dens, really deserving the name, is a bit of 
ground five feet square, fitted into an angle 
by the kitchen door. The mistress of the 



began to watch it, in order to ascertain how 
much sunlight it would have. She found 
that for more than half the afternoon the 
sun shone down upon the place, and that 
was sufficient for her purpose. In the 
center of the tiny space she planted a dozen 
balsam or lady-slipper seeds, and when they 
were two inches in height, she transplanted 
four of the sturdiest plants to the corners, 
afterward thinning out all but one in the 
center. There are few plants that are 
prettier when blooming singly, and all sum- 
mer long the balsams were well filled with 
flowers. The plants were two feet in height, 
and nearly as much in diameter, so that five 
quite filled the little spot. 

There is really no reason why the small- 
est and most unpromising garden space 
should be neglected, for, with alittle thought, 
some plant can be found that will adapt 
itself to the existing conditions. Mother 
Nature has been lavish in providing plants 
for all occasions and situations, and neither 
shade nor sunlight, dampness nor drought, 
have been made exceptions to her general 
rule. If in the shaded spot the rarer plants 
cannot thrive, there are commoner llcs- 
soms that are ofttimes just as pretty and 
will reach ^^erfection under less favorable 
conditions. 

No home can be quite beautiful, if there 
be in it or around it a place that the mis- 
tress feels ashamed of on account of its 




Products of the Back-yard Garden 



cottage viewed the space that few would 
have deemed worthy of notice, and then 



bareness and ugliness. True it is, how- 
ever, that many an otherwise perfect dwell- 



SANITARY KITCHENS 



ing is spoiled by such a spot. Perhaps it 
is in the corner under the windows in the 
ell, or more frequently the outlook from 
the kitchen door, but, be it what it may, 
there remains the fact that the beauty of 
contour is spoiled, and that it will require 
care and thought to restore it. More than 
all other of the many marring particulars, 
the back-yard should appeal to the mistress 
who must rule in her own kitchen. Day 
after day, she must look from the door upon 
the same scene and, if it ^^ ere a pleasant 
one, how much better she would feel. 
After the toil of the day is fairly begun, it 



will run much more smoothly, if the busy 
housewife can pause for a moment to look 
out upon the flowers, which will nod en- 
couragement to her through the open 
door. 

When a few spare minutes offer them- 
selves, the necessary work of the garden 
may be done, and it will be found refresh- 
ing instead of wearisome, as it takes the 
worker into the open air and drives away 
the worry that cannot endure among flow- 
ers. Try taking the back-yard garden as 
a spring tonic, and that of another kind will 
neither be wanted nor needed. 




Tiled Floor and Wainscot 



Sanitary Kitchens 



Bv C. J. FOX 



THE laws of sanitation are, as a rule, 
strictly complied with in the build- 
ing of our modern American houses. 
In the present day building construction, 
the dark, poorly ventilated, badly drained 



house of a few years ago has given way to 
the well-lighted, well-aired, and well-drained 
residence furnished with steam heat, open 
plumbing, and tiled bathrooms. In this 
general progress in sanitary building, how- 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ever, the kitchen has not kept pace with 
the rest of the house. In fact, in many 
cases, instead of progress, we find, as far as 




Tiled Floor in German Kitchen 

the kitchen is concerned, actual retrogres- 
sion. This is due to several causes. The 
kitchen is no longer, as in days gone by, a 
kind of living-room for the family. Visitors 
and members of the family seldom, if ever, 
enter the kitchen, and in many cases even 
the housekeeper visits this room but sel- 
dom. The care, which in former days 
was bestowed on the kitchen, is today re- 
served for the drawino^ and dininor-rooms. 



The kitchen now occupies a small portion 
of the back or basement of the house. 

Of course every housekeeper tries to have 
her kitchen kept clean, that is, neat and 
cleanly in appearance. Few of them realize, 
however, that it is in the kitchen, more than 
in any other part of the house, that the laws 
of sanitation should be religiously observed. 
In utter disregard of this ah important fact, 
even the open plumbing, which adds so 
much to the attractive appearance, as well 
as to the hygienic qualities of our modern 
bathroom, is frequently lacking in the 
kitchen of our first-class residences. 

Yet in certain respects the health of the 
entire family depends upon the sanitary 
condition of the kitchen. There is a vast 
difference between a clean and a sanitary 
kitchen. Just as the clearest water may 
contain the most deadly disease germs, so 
the cleanest, bright, wooden floors and walls 
of the kitchen, which have for years ab- 
sorbed foreign vegetable and animal mat- 
ter spattered upon them, may j^ropagate 
myriads of bacteria injurious to human life, 
and great numbers of insects which, though 
not as dangerous as germs, are, neverthe- 
less, intensely disagreeable. 

For a truly sanitary kitchen four things are 
necessary : light, ventilation, open plumb- 




Tiled I.aundrv 



SANITARY KITCHENS 



ing, and last, but most important, because 
most frequently lacking, non-absorbent, 
washable floors and walls. Many houses in 
which anything but a tiled bathroom would 
be regarded as quite out of place, still re- 
tain kitchens with wooden floors and walls 
that are thoroughly permeated with decay- 
ing vegetable and animal matter; yet, as a 
matter of sanitation, it is far more essential to 
tile the floors and walls of the kitchen than 
those of the bathroom. Of course many 
people fail to realize this, because, without 
giving the matter serious attention, they 
imagine that tiles are used on the floorand 
walls of the bathroom, chiefly because they 
are attractive looking, and can be worked 
into the most artistic designs of color and 
form. Yet, as a matter of fact, the artistic 
properties of tiling, however vast and at- 
tractive they may be, sink into insignificance 
when compared with its sanitary qualities, 
due to its non-absorbent and absolutely 
germ-proof character. Yet the true sanitary 
reasons, which necessitate tiled floors and 
walls in the bathroom, apply with redoubled 
force to the kitchen. 

Wooden floors and walls form a perma- 
nent lodgment for germs of every kind, 
which thrive in the corners, cracks and in 
the material itself. The *' anaerobic" germ, 
for instance, which lives within the wood, 
beyond the reach of air and light, needs 
only heat and moisture in order to lead a 
most thriving existence. The heat is ever 
present in the kitchen, and the very water 
that is used to wash the floors and walls 
supplies the necessary moisture. Thus, 
these germs of decay, invisible to the naked 
eye, but very evident to the sense of smell 
in the form of a peculiar musty odor, which, 
by the way, can never be eradicated with- 
out removing the boards containing the 
germs, — are fostered by every attempt to 
keep the walls and floors well washed. 
Other less offensive but more dangerous 



germs are propagated in the cracks between 
the boards, and especially under the paper, 
cloth, or rubber coverings, which are fre- 
quently used on the walls and floors. Oil 
cloth, linoleum, and especially rubber tiles, 
are most unsanitary covers for kitchen 
floors; because, as they are seldom taken up, 
they merely hide dirt and dust, which has 
gathered under them perhaps for months 
or years. The rubber tiling is especially 
dangerous, from the fact that the cracks 
between the tiles absorb water and other 
liquids spilled upon the floor, and by pre- 
venting them from evaporating cause them 
to rot the floor. 

The ideal sanitary kitchen should have 
its walls and floor covered with the real clay 
tile set in hard cement. Such walls and 
floors are non-absorbent, are unafl"ected by 
the numerous vapors arising from the cook- 
ing of food, are absolutely sterile as far as 
germs are concerned, and can be easily 
washed. In fact, even a hose can be used 
on a kitchen, the walls and floor of which 
are properly tiled. Tiled or ceramic mosaic 
floors do away with an endless amount of 
scrubbing, and are consequently a great 
saving as far as domestic labor is concerned. 
Furthermore, the bright, neat, clean and 
cheerful appearance of a well-lighted, tiled 
kitchen, supplied with modern, open plumb- 
ing, has an excellent influence upon the 
domestics, who are thus unconsciously 
urged to live up to the cleanliness of their 
surroundings. 

The tiled kitchen, with modern open 
plumbing, is a hygienic necessity, far more 
so than the tiled bathroom, and its absence 
may at any time become responsible for the 
ill-health of the entire family. No modern 
house, which professes to be buUt accord- 
ing to the laws of sanitation, should be built 
without a kitchen with non-absorbent, 
washable floors and walls. Ours is a day 
of educational reform. 




Unforeseen 



Bv ALIX THORN 



I SAW them that evening as we came 
down to dmner, newcomers I decided, 
an elderly mother, pale and carefully 
shawled, and a middle-aged daughter of 
majestic mien, tall and stout, and with a 
well-defined cascade of double chins. Then 
Cynthia and I were surrounded by a crowd 
of old friends, and enthusiastically wel- 
comed back to the Inn. 

''Yes," I heard Cynthia say, ''yes, it 
WAas quite a perfect day to come through 
the Notch, we thoroughly enjoyed the 
whole trip, did n' t we. Cousin Maria ? ' ' 

' ' Indeed, it was ' a perfect mountain 
day," I made haste to answer. I could 
not truthfully say I had enjoyed every 
moment of the trip, for Cynthia had been 
but a difficult traveling companion. She 
Jiad settled down in her chair with the look 
of a tragedy queen, and as one wondrous 
view after another unfolded, her comment 
was something in this wise: — 

" Well, how fortunate a girl is who finds 
a man out in time." 

As we glided over the trestle, in response 
to my anxious, ' ' This does 7iot seem to me 
to be safe, Cynthia — " she had replied: — 

" O, T m glad I told him the truth. Now, 
I can thoroughly enjoy the rest of the sum- 
mer," and as if to show how truly happy 
she already was, she wiped her eyes, took 
out her smelling salts and vouchsafed no 
further remark for at least twenty minutes. 

A cheerful traveler, fully alive to views, 
sat just ahead of me, and I was, perforce, 
obliged to confine my occasional remarks 
to her, more especially, as she had not taken 
the trip before, and was feverishly anxious 
to see and know all. 

I did find myself wishing, as we neared 
the familiar Inn, our summer home for the 
last two seasons, that Cynthia and John 
Travers had waited until the autumn before 
deciding to disagree, for then my usually 
light-hearted young relative would have 



viewed the passing show through rosy spec- 
tacles, as was her wont. But I hoped much 
from a change of scene, having known 
Cynthia through all her days of sun and 
shower. 

I don't know who introduced the new 
people to her, but to my surprise, I saw 
Cynthia visiting with them, after breakfast, 
in unusually affable fashion, and I heard 
her promising to take them to the Stroll. I 
watched her with honest admiration as, two 
hours later, she started off between her new 
acquaintances, carefully suiting her pace to 
their slow, measured step. Lithe and 
youthful, she looked, in her simple, white 
linen frock, a marked contrast to her more 
somberly clad companions. 

"A most attractive girl, your cousin," 
said a throaty voice at my elbow, and I saw 
that old Mrs. Witherspoon had also ob- 
served the departure. ' ' Quite refreshing 
to see a sweet creature like that so thought- 
ful for others' pleasure. Her young friends 
all off at the Links! Most commendable ! 
Most ! Those Cromwells have seemed rather 
alone. Good old Philadelphia family ! 
Tell me they've usually gone to the water, 
but the daughter developing a touch of hay 
fever, they thought best to find a higher 
altitude." 

' ' Indeed ! " I remarked absently, ad- 
j usting my embroidery hoops. If there was 
one thing that irritated my diverting young 
relative, more than another, it was con- 
tinued sneezing; and I wondered how the 
Stroll would seem, resounding to such 
volleys. 

" Miss Cromwell is an artist," said Cyn- 
thia that same evening, ' ' and has consented 
to show some of us her shore studies, ' ' and 
very willing was the blandly smiling artist to 
exhibit her work. Picture after picture was 
drawn from the plump folio, the prevailing 
^scheme seeming to be blurry sketches of 
very blue water and very brown rocks, with 



UNFORESEEN 



vast expanses of sky line — and, watching, 
I grew hopelessly depressed. The perfect 
moonlight beckoned; one by one the audi- 
ence melted away, but Cynthia remained 
valorously at her post until the supply was 
exhausted, and her voice expressed no 
weariness as she said: — "Well, this has 
been a pleasure, yes, it would be charming 
to go sketching with you. ' ' 

I came upon them some days later in a 
near-by field, facing the line of mountains, 
busily at work, Cynthia meekly accepting 
advice and suggestion, from the new-found 
friend. 

Being rather past the age of picnics and 
excursions, I wondered if Miss Cromwell 
wasn't mildly surprised at being included 
in all the festivities of the gay days that 
followed. She was gallantly pulled, pushed, 
and almost hoisted into high mountain 
wagons, where from her desirable seat she 
could, like a comforting presiding genius, 
look down upon the more agile members of 
the party, scrambling into their places. 

She would cheerfully appropriate the 
coveted seat in the launch, or lag far be- 
hind on the walks, sure of some thought- 
ful souls for company. It was Cynthia's 
popularity alone that carried her protege 
through, and her tact that smoothed over 
trying occasions. It would seem that Miss 
Cromwell was having her St. Martin's 
summer. 

I confess I did n' t find Mrs. Cromwell in 
the least interesting. She was a most in- 
quisitive old person, and managed to ex- 
tract from me far more information about 
the habitues of the Inn, than I meant to 
divulge, giving me, in return, detailed ac- 
counts of several complicated illnesses that 
had occurred in her family. It hardly 
seemed a fair exchange. Yet, I observed, 
Cynthia would sit by her a good part of a 
morning, listening with pretty deference, 
to the doleful recitals, herself working at 
some sadly neglected fancy work. They 
were, to say the least, a strangely assorted 
pair. 

We were gathered on the piazza one 
afternoon, Cynthia and I, with several 
others, deep in our newly arrived mail, 



when I saw the Cromwells approaching. 
Miss Cromwell, flushed and smiling, bore 
a large photograph, which she held out to 
us. 

" My brother has sent us his latest pic- 
ture!" she began — ''don't you want to 
see it? Dear Humphrey, it's very like 
him ! " 

I took the proffered picture, and Cyn- 
thia at once looked over my shoulder. 
What we saw was a stout, important-looking, 
dark man, bearing the most extraordinary 
resemblance to his sister, even to the im- 
pressive chin. Under the picture was 
written : ' ' Humphrey Chatterton Crom- 
well, August, 1904." 

" Is that the brother who is coming up 
here for his vacation ? ' ' exclaimed Cynthia 
incredulously. . 

"The very one," replied his mother. 
Several ladies at once crowded around Miss 
Cromwell, eagerly begging for a peep. 

" I never knew until yesterday that your 
brother was the Mr. Cromwell," cried one 
vivacious young matron. " How does it 
seem to be related to such an author and 
traveler? " joined in a very blonde young 
woman. ' ' Ah, he's a sad bachelor, ' ' 
went on his sister plaintively. '' Mamma 
and I so desire brother to marry ! Indeed, 
we are always picking out charming young- 
women for him, ' ' and not till then did I 
meet Cynthia's tell-tale eyes. She blushed 
warmly, and at once all was made clear to 
me. The picture had done its perfect 
work. 

She pleaded fatigue that evening when 
Miss Cromwell asked her to walk on the 
piazza, and she disappeared early. 

Later, much later, I stopped at her door 
to ask if she had a headache. 

"Come in!" cried a happy voice, 
"Come in. Cousin Maria!" She had, 
evidently, been writing for some time, for 
on the desk lay a great number of closely 
written sheets — I observed that it was her 
best paper. 

" You will need two stamps, at least, on 
the envelope, Cynthia," I volunteered, 
' ' one won' t carry it ! " 

"He can pay for the extra postage. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



John Travers can," cried Cynthia, *'and 
I feel to say he won' t grudge the expense. ' ' 



She wafted me an airy kiss, and again her 
pen went racing over the paper like mad. 



A Piece of Sugar-cane 



By ADELAIDE G. WATERS 



ONE can never reaUze the proverbial 
uncertainty of waiting for his ship 
to come in, until he waits for a boat 
on the Mississippi. Some one, on being 
asked if the boats started sharp, answered, 
' ' Not sharp, but dull. ' ' But no one seems 
to care. For that matter, if one were in a 
hurry, he would not go by boat, but by 
rail, for the circuitous course of the water 
takes one many times out of one' s way, and 
an hour may be readily whiled away in look- 
ing at the majestic Mississippi brown with 
Missouri mud. 

The wharf is always a rendezvous for idle 
negroes, whose chief excitement is to see 
the boats come in. Nowhere is the pow- 
erful physique of the race shown to greater 
advantage than in handhng the heavy cot- 
ton bales. The negro is a favored mortal, 
for whether figuring in his best clothes as 
an American citizen of African descent, or 
in his worst as ' * Sambo, ' ' a traveling rag 
bag, he never fails to be picturesque. 
Here, perched on a cotton bale, is a cute 
little darkey, spoiling for a snap-shot from 
some camera, and an antique uncle with a 
semicircle of white hair contrasting with his 
ebon face. 

There is no more weird and fascinating 
sound than boat whistles on the Mississippi. 
Here, at last, comes the boat, that is to 
take us on our zigzag course across the zig- 
zag river, crossing now to this plantation, 
now to that, to lay off suppHes. An old 
negress is on board with a basket, selling 
sweet potato pies. There are gilt hoops 
in her ears, and the inevitable bright ker- 
chief twisted tightly over her knotted wool. 



The life of a boatman on the Mississippi 
is nothing if not exciting. One never knows 
what the fascinating, treacherous stream 
will do next. The oldest inhabitant' s pre- 
diction is worth no more than a new- 
comer's. Tragedies are not uncommon, 
for the boats are made of light resinous 
material, and like the ill-fated "Prairie 
Belle," "all boats has their day on the 
Mississippi. ' ' 

Far-off faint curls of blue smoke tell where 
the sugar mills are running. Here is the 
plantation we have come to visit. The 
boat deposits us on the landing, and churns 
leisurely av.-ay. Here we are, among the 
fields of cane, like tall green corn, towering 
above our heads. The rows are planted 
six feet apart and sometimes arch over. 
Here the negroes toil in the hot sun, pre- 
sided over by the gang-driver, the long 
whip that he cracks, being a badge of office, 
not for use, as in former days. Still, the 
commander-in-chief of the United States 
army probably does not feel so dignified 
and important. With cane knives they 
were cutting the cane close to the root and 
stripping off the leaves, women and chil- 
dren gathering it into heaps and putting it 
into carts drawn by stout mules. Mules 
are generally employed, as horses cannot 
stand the climate. Here, for the first 
time, we suck a piece of sugar-cane. 

The cane-cutting season begins the first 
of October. It cannot be put off longer on 
account of frost, though the canes are not 
fully ripe. For a month before the season 
begins the sugar house is being white- 
washed, the kettles, purified, and the ma- 



A PIECE OF SUGAR-CANE 



13 



chinery put in working order. After the 
season is over the planter gives a ball for 
the help, which is considered a grand affair, 
and is held in the sugar house. At Christ- 
mas, in the old days, money amounting to 
one dollar for every hogshead of sugar 
raised, was distributed among the negroes. 
If any one had been lazy, this was remem- 
bered against him. 

The sugar-cane is not native to Louisi- 
ana, though by this time it is pretty thor- 
oughly acclimated. There is a tradition 
that the Jesuits introduced it from San 
Domingo in 1751. Many unsuccessful at- 
tempts at sugar making were made. In 
1 771, Etienne de Bove, a gay French 
officer, married a Louisiana girl, who had 
for her dowry what is now Carrolton, a 
suburb of New Orleans. He planned to 
raise sugar, and invested his little remain- 
ing capital in the venture. All prophesied 
disaster but he persevered. In the history 
of Louisiana, it is related that on the day 
when the experiment was put to the final 
test, many had assembled to see whether 
it would prove a success or failure, that is, 
whether the sugar would granulate. " At 
the critical moment the stillness of death 
came over them all, each one holding his 
breath and feeling that it was a matter of 
ruin or prosperity for them all. Suddenly 
the sugar maker cried out with exultation, 
*it granulates,' and the crowd repeated, 
* it granulates. ' Inside and outside of the 
building, one could hear the wonderful 
tidings flying from mouth to mouth and 
dying in the distance." 

It was indeed of great moment, for the 
soil of Louisiana, is not so well adapted to 
any other crop as to sugar. America con- 
sumes more than any other nation, but the 
uncertainty of the tariff is a check on the 
industry. The planter raises as much to 
the acre now as in the days of slavery, 
though the negroes do not work as many 
hours, and are paid wages. Men get seven- 
ty-five cents a day, women fifty. This 
makes sugar-making as profitable as any- 
thing they can do. A planter is obliged to 
be an intelligent man, for it is a business 



tliat requires brains. There is a school at 
New Orleans for the scientific study of cane- 
culture and sugar-making, the graduates of 
which are in great demand. 

We follow one of the many roads inter- 
lacing the level fields, where the heavily 
laden carts go to the mill. A sugar mill 
presents a scene of the liveUest activity. 
The negroes are busily unloading their carts 
upon the cane-carrier, which is a series of 
boards on rollers. On the other side is the 
bagasse-carrier carrying away the bagasse, 
that is the refuse cane from which the juice 
has been extracted, which used to be 
thrown away, but is now used as fuel. The 
heat is so great that it is marvelous that 
even negroes can endure it; as it is, they 
are dripping with perspiration. And yet, 
hard as they work, it is said that they grow 
fat during the sugar season, drinking the rich 
juices. Colonel Higginson, in ' ' Army Life 
in a Black Regiment, ' ' tells how much col- 
ored soldiers felt the deprivation of sugar, 
and that ''no white man can drink coffee 
after they have sweetened it to their 
liking." 

It is an anxious moment for the planter 
when he tests the specific gravity of the 
juice, which he does by means of an in- 
strument called the saccharometer. Slacked 
quicklime is added, and the impurities rise, 
are skimmed off, and the juice is then boiled 
in great black vats. The boiling has to be 
very carefully done, as it must not reach 
too high a temperature. The syrup when 
ready goes to the centrifugals. These are 
small drums containing a wire screen basket 
rapidly revolving. The centrifugal force 
throws out the molasses and leaves sugar, 
which is washed with clean water. The 
molasses is boiled again and yet again. 
The first sugar is called "first," and is the 
best; the result of the second boiling, 
"seconds," the rest, "thirds." 

At twilight the negroes form a proces- 
sion home, their implements upon their 
shoulders, and in the air the notes of their 
favorite song: 

" In the morning, 

In the morning by the bright light.** 



Vacations 



Bv KATE GANNETT WELLS 



A LIEUTENANT Governor of Mas- 
sachusetts is reported to have said 
that everybody would be better off 
for the yearly rest of a month. If, thereby, 
he could be saved from a year of nervous 
prostration, certainly such a vacation might 
be an economical expenditure of time. But 
under ordinary circumstances would not 
such a month be spent by many of us in 
'^just looking round," in loafing, in doing 
nothing, which desultory occupations often 
find us more tired out at the end of their 
pursuit than in the beginning ? 

Vacations somehow are apt to get dis- 
torted; they are too fore-shortened and 
make other days very unsatisfactory. Most 
of us never did have, and never could 
have a month' s actual vacation. If we are 
teachers, we get nominally two months, but 
are so urged to go to summer schools that 
we yield ourselves to the fallacy of their 
health-giving properties, and without stop- 
ping to get a little rested after our ten 
months of teaching, go off at once to a 
summer school. If it is co-educational, we 
may have a good time on afternoon excur- 
sions. If not, — we gather much local in- 
formation, and call it social geography, 
promising ourselves that another season we 
will not go to any summer school for more 
than three weeks, unless it be one where 
we can learn how to make domestic science 
a fine art, and there we will stay gladly all 
summer. 

If, however, we occupy only medium 
positions in stores and offices, which is the 
way with most of us, we shall have but two 
weeks of vacation, and for that time, lest 
we drift into uncertainty, we prescribe be- 
forehand our formula for rest and enjoy- 
ment. We promise ourselves to sleep each 
night eight hours, with little naps in the 
daytime whenever we feel sleepy. We are 
to go off somewhere for the sake of change, 
taking with us a supply of crackers, candy 



and paper novels. But we are not to bother 
ourselves about clothes, or sight seeing, or 
improving our minds or constitutions, for 
we have learned that the basal idea of a va- 
cation is that of change from what we have 
to do the rest of the time. 

Then we also have learned not to fret our- 
selves because we cannot go to Europe, 
(even if four of us take a stateroom to- 
gether), or because we cannot have lots of 
fun, which some other folks have, for we 
are too wise to lose all the benefit of a va- 
cation in wishing for the impossible. Yet, 
on the other hand, we will not be so meekly 
suffused with gratitude for the many vaca- 
tion houses provided by philanthropy that 
we lose our self-respect. It is better to use 
up the time of our vacation in trolley-car 
rides and in doing our mending, than to 
collapse into a meek, dejected, chronic 
state of gratitude. 

As for saying that everybody ought to 
have a real nice vacation, it is useless, per- 
haps it ought to be so, but it is not, and 
oughts neither make rights nor facts. Still, 
if we cannot create for ourselves a good- 
sized vacation in length, but must take it 
out in feeling, we can, at least, create num- 
berless little vacations for others. J ust here 
it is often that the amazing selfishness of 
some, and the unselfishness of others ap- 
pear. Some housekeepers grudge an extra 
half hour to their maids in which to get 
ready for their weekly half holiday, expect- 
ing them to work up to the limit of their 
time. Why not give them less work to do 
at home on their day out, then they would 
not be too tired to enjoy it. 

Hard-working mothers give their eight- 
year-old children a half day' s outing in the 
park or the alley, but impose on them the 
care of the last baby, which is always on 
hand, and which is tended with wonder- 
ful patience and dexterity by its little, older 
sister. If unemployed fathers could be 



14 



AN EXHORTATION 



15 



compelled to take the place of their young 
daughters, in this perennial care of the last 
babies, there would not be so many of them 
born. 

Why not, also, create tiny vacations for 
the seamstress, by not keeping her over- 
time and by insisting on her going out doors 
at noon. The bother of it all is, that, when 
we are poor ourselves, we fear we cannot 
afford to be generous, forgetting how much 
we can do for others in littles. If we think 
we cannot afford to give them little outings, 
we can, at least, give them a little better 
food than we have ourselves, and we can 
be cordial and jolly with them all day long, 
even if the dress they are making is badly 
done. It is the unpaid work and the un- 
paid time, and the being treated as if her 
work were the whole of her, that make the 
worker long for a vacation with which no 
one can interfere. So many points, not in 
a bargain, creep into it unawares, just as 
many teachers have to compile needless 
school statistics. 

Supposing, however, one has but a whole 
spare day, how should she spend it? She 
could sleep late, clear out her bureau 
drawers, fix over her hat, visit some one 
whom she liked, (not a duty call), read the 
beginning and end of a novel and go to a 
vaudeville show. If one has a whole week 
or several weeks, it is wiser to be econom- 
ical in pleasures, lest one be embarrassed the 
rest of the year and borrow at a high rate of 
interest or take her small savings fi-om the 
bank. Better go without everything than 
borrow from another, still more from one's 
slippery self, so easy is it to mortgage the 
future. 



After all, the amount of enjoyment in any 
vacation is largely a matter of temperament 
and of relief experienced by not having to 
be systematic for days together. System 
is all very well, where there is not too much 
of it, and when magnanimity gets ahead of 
petty orders. Happy, also, are the vaca- 
tion possibilities of enjoyment through free 
libraries and museums, parks and picture 
shops. Blessed are those who have a tree 
in their back-yard, if there is none in front. 
Then, when we are not in a hurry nor too 
tired, we find lots of fun in the crudities, 
stupidities and queer kindnesses of people. 
So much pleasure depends on not taking 
offence easily, in believing that no one dis- 
likes you very much, and in pretending to 
one's self as well as to others, until you be- 
lieve it, that you are going to have a good 
time by and by, even if you have not got 
it now. 

A vacation that is spent in moaning over 
might-have-beens is exasperating. The 
spirit of a vacation implies the ability not to 
worry, and this, in turn, confers the gift of 
perpetual youth, which most women want. 
Yet, if one cannot get a vacation even in 
summer, then just make believe that one 
does not want it, — for always one can con- 
trive to do Httle things for others who have 
scant vacation, or none at all, which either 
will give them extra moments for leisure or 
else give them the comfortable feeling of 
being appreciated. For next to the pleasure 
of having those we love best honored and 
praised, is the harmless self- congratula- 
tion that comes from knowing somebody 
cares for us, even if we do not amount to 
much. 



An Exhortation 



By LOUISE TABER 



'Tis better to be skilled in making salad. 
Than versifying sweetest song or ballad. 
For man, ' tis said, is but a hungry sinner. 



Devoid of sentiment 'till after dinner. 
So, if the way you ' d find unto his heart, 
Essay not verse, but culinary art. 



The Place Where You Forget Everything 



By MRS. CHARLES NORMAN 



I 



WANT to stay here," said Baby 
Caroline, as she crept under the fence 
and advanced toward a quaint old 
house, which stood somewhat back from the 
village street, half smothered with Hlac 
bushes. 

<'Look," said her mother, ''see where 
that child has gone ! ' ' Then Mrs. March, 
likewise, slipped under the fence and van- 
ished in the shrubbery. 

Mr. March walked on to the gate, where 
he stopped to await the return of wife and 
baby. He leaned leisurely against a post, 
for a considerable time, contemplating the 
heavens above and the earth beneath. He 
was prepared to enjoy a view of the country, 
for this was a perfect May-day, and he was 
having his first holiday since the New Year. 
He was becoming keenly aware of that 
something ' ' new andistrange ' ' which spring 
had put into the air. Sight, hearing, smell, 
feeling — all his senses were arousing them- 
selves, as cloudless skies, singing birds and 
blooming fruit trees appeared before him. 
Suddenly this line came into his mind : 

' * Time will turn back and fetch the age 
of gold." 

Where had he read that, and who wrote 
it? What had brought it to his mind? 
Would he cease to think of an age of gold 
as soon as he was back in the city? These 
and like thoughts were passing through his 
brain, when he remembered that he was 
waiting for his wife and baby, and that they 
were a very long time coming back. 

''Eleanor ! Caroline ! " he called out in 
some alarm — venturing up the steps that 
led toward the stone cottage. 

"Oh, do come here ! " answered a faint 
voice from some unseen place near the 
ground. 

Mr. March gave a frightened start and 
went stumbling over the uneven pavement, 
expecting to witness some dreadful dis- 
aster. 

"Here I am/' called Mrs. March from 



the region to the left of the walk, " Come 
here quickly. You never saw such a 
sight. ' ' 

"What! What!" gasped Mr. March, 
almost stepping upon his wife, as he came 
upon her, unexpectedly, sitting flat upon 
the ground. 

"Just look," she answered in a bewil- 
dered way, "Lilies of the valley and 
violets I Thousands of them, here in the 
grass ! Oh, you are stepping on them ! 
Did you ever see them grow this way be- 
fore?" 

" But where is Carohne ? ' ' said her com- 
panion, rather bluntly. 

" Oh, she is somewhere near," answered 
Caroline's abstracted mother, still awe- 
struck, with the glory of her surroundings. 

Mr. March was a little annoyed that he 
should have been unduly frightened, and, 
being unable to see the child, he said, 
somewhat resentfully, "We'd better find 
her and go. I think we have been loiter- 
ing long enough about somebody else's 
premises." 

Caroline was not exactly "near," but at 
the remotest end of a very long back-yard. 
She was, however, neither hurt nor in dan- 
ger. Moreover, the back-yard with its 
fruit trees in blossom, was a veritable Gar- 
den of Eden, to the charms of which the 
child' s father was so sensitive, that he in- 
stantly forgot his perturbation. 

The old apple trees awakened memories 
of a childhood home, with all its dear asso- 
ciations; and, as Mr. March sat down upon 
a rude bench beside his wife, and beneath 
a spreading bough, the whole earth seemed 
to him ' ' appareled in celestial light. ' ' 

Amid the flowers, contented little Caro- 
line was playing in her fairy-like way. ' ' She 
is an angel, like her mother," thought Mr. 
March, and, as he recalled the sweetness of 
the past, now but a memory, he clung 
rather concernedly to the sweetness of the 
present, lest that also vanish. 



16 



THE PLACE WHERE YOU FORGET EVERYTHING 



17 



''She is an angel, like her mother," he 
thought again, as he pictured his innocent, 
ingenuous little wife, sitting, engrossed, 
amid the violets and lilies of the valley. At 
this point he stole a glance, to make sure 
she was not thinking of his impatient words. 
Her bright, happy face reassured him, yet 
as he looked he observed that she lacked 
color and was a little thin. 

' ' Eleanor, ' ' he said, breaking the silence, 
' ' we must not keep that child in a flat all 
summer. It might kill her. And see how 
happy she is here — and not a thing to harm 
her. And you, too, need oxygen and sun- 
shine." 

' ' Dear, ' ' said his wife, very quietly, 
''you, yourself, need the change more 
than either of us. You know you are very, 
very tired. You have not had a vacation 
in years. You were wishing this morning 
you could afford to go somewhere, where 
you could forget everything. We have 
been here a good while, lost in our own 
thoughts. Maybe this is the place for 
us." 

"It is only an hour's ride by trolley 
from here home," said her husband, won- 
dering if what he said could be true. 

"Therefore," answered Mrs. March, 
"the expense of coming here would be 
trifling, and it might be within our means 
to do it. Meta would come with us. She 
could buy the provisions and prepare them, 
and you and I could simply live in this yard. 
The place is to be rented, I noticed a sign 
on the door, though a branch of lilac had 
fallen over it, and it was hardly visible. 
Suppose you go now and see about it." 
Then, she added with a twinkle in her eye, 
' ' I really do think we have loitered long 
enough about somebody else's premises. ' ' 

Mr. March could not disagree in this 
opinion, and thinking still of Caroline and 
her mother, he set off on the errand ap- 
pointed him. A httle later he had the sat- 
isfaction of announcing his good luck — the 
house had been rented, and at a price that 
seemed to a city man almost nothing. 
Moreover, they were free to take posses- 
sion when they wished. After this informa- 
tion was imparted, the family took a grand 



triumphant march all about, stopping at the 
violet and lily patch, where Mrs. March 
gazed again in admiration and joy. Then 
they prevailed upon Caroline to leave, 
•under the promise that she might return. 

Dinner tasted unusually good when they 
got home, though the flat had never 
seemed so drear and damp. That something 
"new and strange" had not entered the 
place, and " never would, " as Mr. March 
was assured, "There is no such air in the 
city," he said, "and if there were, it could 
never get into these apartments. These 
flats always remind me of the old conun- 
drum — A duck before two ducks, a duck 
between two ducks, a duck behind two 
ducks, only it ought to be six, instead of 
two. ' ' 

' ' Why, dear, ' ' exclaimed Mrs. March, 
as if a fearful thought had just come to her. 
"We never saw the inside of that house 
out there, did we?" 

Mr. March had not recovered from the 
exhilarating effect of the apple blossoms, 
and the expression on his wife' s face amused 
him greatly. He gave a hearty laugh — 
much heartier than is admissible- in a flat. 
"Well," he said, "that was certainly a 
place for forgetting everything. Really, it 
is funny, very funny, in view of the fact 
that you have never allowed me to pass 
upon any place you were to live in, but 
have always insisted upon counting the 
closets and scrutinizing, for yourself, every 
nook and corner; even making sure that the 
davenport could be got through the door- 
ways, that the piano, the book-cases and 
the beds would fit in." 

His wife smiled. "But we do not have 
to move the davenport, the piano, or the 
book-cases; and the beds can set in the 
middle of the floor, if need be. All I ask 
is that the roof keeps out the rain." 

"It may not," said her husband, as if 
the thought rather pleased him. "But 
one thing we can do, erect a tent in the 
back-yard. For my part, that is where 
I propose to stay. I do not care much about 
the house, though I shall be pleased if it 
has no unnecessary furniture. Everything 
is so crowded here, that it seems to me a 



i8 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



sitting-room withyV/j/ chairs would be un- 
imaginably restful. ' ' 

The work of furnishing a house with nec- 
essities only was not a great task, and was 
soon accomplished. Indeed, the whole 
summer was quickly passed; but it had been 
a dream of gladness. In their own time, 
there had come into blossom, all the dear, 
old-fashioned flowers, which had been 
planted years before by loving hands. There 
were snowballs, hollyhocks, roses, bleeding 
heart, scarlet honeysuckle, lilies, peonies 
and syringas. Humming birds had built 
their matchless nests in the honeysuckle, 
yellow warblers had two homes in the lilacs, 
chipping sparrows, robins, a cat-bird, and 
a Baltimore oriole were at home in the trees. 

The place required some tending, but in 
this, Mr. and Mrs. March worked side by 
side, and they asked no more wholesome 
employment. When they were weary, it 
was with that kind of weariness that made 
rest sweet. There was no vexation, con- 
fusion or nervous exhaustion. 

Caroline lived in paradise, and her face 
wore angelic gladness. The little house. 



while not affording positive comfort, was 
free from discomfort — in which respect it 
contrasted with the city flat, which, with 
all modern conveniences, was lacking in 
privacy, peace and repose. One of the rules 
of the family was, that no one should stay 
indoors when they might as well be out 
doors. By the end of the season, the place 
had become too dear to be relinquished, 
and it was purchased at a price that cor- 
responded with its modesty. In it the 
family have since spent from eight to twelve 
weeks every summer, renewing their phy'si- 
cal and spiritual health to such a degree, 
that their yearly labor yields as great profit 
as when it occupied the entire twelve 
months. 

The inspiration of the dreary, struggHng 
winter days, during which Mr. March is 
engrossed with men and their affairs, Is 
the coming of May-day, when he can turn 
again to the place where he forgets every- 
thing. His acquaintances who go abroad, 
to the mountains, or the seashore, find less 
content than he, — breathing his native air, 
on his own domain. 



Black Eyed Susans 

By ALIX THORN 

Fine and sturdy, lithe and tall, swaying in the grasses, 
Sun-browned band ! I see them come, happy, country lasses; 
Haunts of June they love, 'tis true, trooping altogether — 
Out alike in sun and shower, do not fear the weather. 

Frilly, yellow bonnets wear, never think of changing. 
Suits them well, the saucy ones o'er the country ranging. 
Cheerful gypsies, friends of birds, know the brooklets turning, 
Coax their secrets from the bees, meadow gossip learning. 

On a sudden they have flown, sober, Nature's seeming. 
Underneath the bending sky lie the fields a- dreaming, 
Yet, the months will quickly pass — saucy faces showing, 
See ! The roving ones return; frilly bonnets blowing. 



Deer Island and Its Companions of Passa- 

maquoddy Bay 

A Very Beautiful Corner of America That Tourists Are Only Just 

Beginning to Frequent 

By GRACE AGNES THOMPSON and MA V FENER Y MARTIN 



JUST off the border line of Maine and 
New Brunswick lies a tiny archipelago 
whose rare charm is unexcelled even by 
the tropical splendor of the West In- 
dies or the wilder grandeur of the St. Law- 
rence. The West Isles, as this group is 
known, include a large number of islands, 
of which Deer Island, Campobello, and 
Indian Island are broad enough to possess 
thriving little townlets tucked safely away 
under the wing of some sheltering hill. 
Campobello has summer hotels, too, three 
of them with golf links, tennis courts, and 
all other things that are to be found in the 
beaten track of the tourist. The rest of 
the group are islets, — just gray cliffs, some- 
times, rearing green-tipped ledges four or 
five hundred feet above the water. But 
Deer Island is the gem as well as the larg- 
est of the group. 

A wonderful medley of bluffs, fiord-like 
coves, hills, dells, lakes, brooks, beaches, 
and forest, is Deer Island. Barely seven 
miles long, with an area of only twenty-six 
square miles, one marvels to find so much of 
real rugged, picturesque scenery. There is 
not a commonplace spot on the island. The 
shore is rocky and exceedingly irregular, in- 
dented again and again to form some tortu- 
ous, almost land-locked inlet or a graceful 
cove where one' s boat may find refuge from 
the noisy waves that roll in from Fundy. 
The surface of the island is exceedingly un- 
level — "All rumpled and uneven, with 
green recesses, sudden swells, and odorous 
valleys driven;" so that to drive around 
the shore is a day' s experience not to be 
soon forgotten. It will be remembered not 
alone for the amazing up and down of it, 



but equally for the exceeding beauty of the 
scenery in all directions, which reveals itself 
in constantly changing vistas, as you move 
from hill to hill, or come suddenly into the 
open from some brief stretch of dense 
woods. 

From any point you approach Deer Is- 
land the landing-point is Eastport, Maine. 
Here, if you are not met by sailboat or 
launch or even by the rowboat of some 
friend, you are picked up by the Viking, 
the little English steamer that phes between 
the West Isles and various ports on the 
Maine and New Brunswick coasts, and 
presently find yourself at Deer Island. 

This last stage in your journey is sure to 
prove the first in a series of novel adven- 
tures that a visit to Deer Island always is. 
The Httle city of Eastport, the extreme 
eastern outpost of the United States, itself 
situated on an island, impresses the stranger 
with its curious knobby hills, over which 
the streets climb and straggle by humpy 
short shdes or flights of steps as best they 
can. The Viking, which makes a ' ' round 
trip" from St. Stephen up the St. Croix 
River in New Brunswick through the West 
Isles to Maguagadavic and return once each 
succeeding two days, will carry you to Deer 
Island by way of Campobello and Indian 
Island, where it makes several short stops. 
Very likely your landing may be your in- 
troduction to Bay of Fundy tides. You 
knew, of course, from your geography, that 
the tides rise rapidly to a great height in 
the Bay of Fundy, and you had fleeting 
visions sometimes, when you thought of it, 
of that famous horseman in the " Ride for 
Life," fleeing across two miles of a Nova 



19 



20 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Scotia beach with the tide waves fearfully 
close behind; but it never occurred to you 
what frolicsome despotism these same tides 
may play around a landing place. So if 
you are to land at Leonardville and the tide 
happens to be out, you sail in on a level 
some twenty-five feet lower than that of 
high tide and are sent ashore in a rowboat, 
which grounds several feet in front of the 
wharf, and you have to pick your way up 
over slimy pebbles and rock-weed, past tall 
piles, to the road, that rambles by on its wan- 
derings round the curves of two sharp head- 
lands. 

If you had landed at Richardson or at 
Lord' s Cove, a short distance by water far- 
ther north, you would have found wharves 
so long as to reach beyond the lowest tide; 
but Leonardville is the first stop and affords 
you one of the novel experiences that so 
thoroughly individualize the West Isles. 

There is not a hotel nor even a country 
inn on Deer Island, so anyone who is for- 
tunate enough to visit there must lodge in 
the dwelling of some resident. Whether 
with friends or strangers, you are treated as 
a guest, and on going away need not be 
surprised if your hospitable host insists that 
he will not accept any remuneration, that 
he has been glad to have you at his home 
for this little time and hopes you will come 
again. 

The days you pass on Deer Island may 
be spent in almost any way you prefer. 
One could spend an entire summer there 
and yet not exhaust the resources of its 
surroundings for sight-seeing and delightful 
adventure. The beauty of Deer Island as 
seen from a carriage has already been men- 
tioned. These drives are added to but not 
equalled by those of Campobello, Indian 
Island, and a number of interesting places 
on the mainland. The roads are good, 
government highways, kept in the best con- 
dition. Horses are always to be had at a 
low price, and good ones, — for West Isle 
folk, who have use for comparatively few 
animals, pride themselves on keeping only 
the best stock. 

Besides driving, there is boating. In 
truth, the West Isles are a kind of Western 



Venice, enlarged and ruralized. You sim- 
ply cannot get anywhere without a boat^ 
and if you are at all timid about boats, you 
should never visit the West Isles. The resi- 
dents always use their boats where other 
people would employ a carriage. They care 
nothing about driving as a means of con- 
veyance. For social calls, for shopping, for 
every kind of expedition, there is a boat. 
No one ever thinks of walking, when a pull 
up or down shore will land one any nearer 
his destination. And every one knows 
how to handle oars, from the oldest grand- 
ma down to the youngest boy. It is quite 
amusing on a Sunday morning to see the 
procession of sea craft moving up shore oj- 
across channels and presently mooring on 
the beach below a village, where their oc- 
cupants wend devout way to the meeting- 
house. 

Excursions to the numberless small islands 
of the group are always interesting. To 
one who enjoys a hazardous climb, where 
the cKffs rise abruptly from deep water to 
a height of four or five hundred feet, the 
West Isles may furnish plenty of excitement, 
and the splendor of the views obtained from 
the summits of these rocky pinnacles is such 
as to win enthusiastic assurance that one 
" would n't have missed it for anything in 
the world. ' ' Throughout the summer, too, 
these islands teem with wild fruits, straw- 
berries, raspberries, blackberries, rock cran- 
berries, even the humble bunchberry — 
in quantity so plentiful that without any 
effort to cultivate them the residents find a 
full supply for their own use, and the school 
children are able to earn many a penny by 
gathering and selling them. Wild roses and 
various rare and beautiful wild flowers and 
plants are abundant. Fishing, from cod to 
lobsters, are other allurements to these rock- 
bound islets. A big whale is not an un- 
common sight in Passamaquoddy, and dol- 
phins play about through channel and inlet 
as they play in the Mediterranean. Sea- 
fowl and rabbits there are, too, ready to be 
shot; while in the wide forest lands beyor.d 
Maguagadavic and up the St. Croix River, 
not a day's journey by canoe away, there 
are deer and fox and half a dozen different 



DEER ISLAND AND ITS COMPANIONS OF PASSAMAQUODDY BAY 21 



varieties of small game. 

A day of shopping or souvenir hunting 
at St. Andrews affords yet another means of 
delight, — quaint St. Andrews at the mouth 
of the St. Croix River, where you may have 
to step ' carefully around some peaceful 
moolley cow, chewing her cud at ease on the 
wharf, as you land from the Viking, and 
through whose narrow old streets you may 
see dignified families of geese strutting out 
for their daily airing. St. Andrews, though so 
near the United States border, is truly an 
English town in character as well as in gov- 
ernment; not a progressive town, in spite of 
its fine summer hotel, the Algonquin, but ap- 
parently transplanted, manners and all, from 
some century-old age into the present. The 
residents are descendants of aristocratic old 
Enghsh families, whose lives are planned, 
Cranford-like, according to tradition. In 
the shops one finds exquisite bargains in 
ribbons and laces and other fabrics from 
European looms, so ancient that they have 
become the very latest novelty '^from 
Paris, " — to the express deught of the shop- 
per and the distinct loss of the proprietor, 
who sees in them only a lot of antiquated 
goods too long already on his hands. 

St. Stephen is also an old English town, 
which lies among beautiful hills two miles 
up the river from St. Andrews. The trip 
there and return is charming. The river 
is not wide, though rather deep, and the 
Viking steams along between high banks, 
with the Chamcook mountains in the back- 
ground, passing Devil's Head, a pictur- 
esque green promontory that reaches out 
into the river not far from the bay. 

Eastport and Lubec, Maine, are inter- 
esting chiefly for their numerous * * sardine ' ' 
factories, in which young herring are canned 
for American and foreign trade in a tooth- 
some way that competes very favorably 
with the real French article. The catching 
of fish for this important industry is another 
feature of Passamaquoddy life, which at- 
tracts the attention of visitors. Herring, 
the most abundant of all food fishes, are 
represented in this region by a rather small 
variety, which frequents Passamaquoddy 
and the mouth of Fundy throughout the 



warmer months of each year. They are 
caught in great quantities by means of 
weirs, traps built of brush and poles across 
the channels and other points, where the 
fish are seen in greatest numbers. Some 
sixty of these weirs are found around the 
shores of Deer Island, and are owned by 
residents of the island, to whom they bring 
in a yearly income of $6000 to ^8000. As 
the fish come in with the tides, a patrol is 
sent out to each weir at certain intervals, 
his duty being to sound a call on his horn, 
if he finds fish in the weir. Boats then ar- 
rive with men and nets and they are 
scooped out. A ' ' good haul ' ' sometimes 
means as many as twenty hogsheads of her- 
ring taken at one fishing. After this the 
fish are loaded aboard herring-boats, 
which are tied together in groups- of six or 
seven and towed as quickly as possible by 
a small tug to the canneries. 

The most interesting features of the West 
Isles, however, — what will leave the 
strongest impression on your memory, — 
apart from the remarkable beauty and rug- 
gedness of the scenery, are the various and 
picturesque individualities of the people 
who live there, with all the ' ' queer ' ' things 
around them caused by some of the strange 
vagaries of nature. You will not forget 
the whirlpools, especially if your boat has 
ever happened to be caught in one of them 
and compelled to pirouette a dozen times 
or so for the benefit of a delighted audi- 
ence on shore. These whirls, or ''pull- 
and-be-damned places," as the fishermen 
call them, are caused by the powerful in- 
rush of tide- waves around the numerous 
points of rock, and through the narrow 
channels between the islands. They are 
usually not dangerous, but just off a lon^j 
peninsula that reaches out from Deer Is- 
land near Eastport there is one so large 
that it would be impossible to rescue a 
good-sized two-masted schooner, if once 
well within the churning yeast of water. 

Some of the hamlets of Deer Island, too, 
and many of the farmhouses, built so close 
to the water that the wavelets of flood tide 
break at the very garden gate, are curious 

[Continued on page xxii) 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
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Culinary Science and Domestic P^conomics 
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for a new subscription, or the renewal of 
an old subscription, to the Cooking-School 
Magazine, to include 20 cents to prepay the 
postage. The rule prevails everywhere 
among publishers to add to the price of 
a periodical the cost of postage to a 
foreign country. V/ith the publisher, in 
fact, this rule is not a matter of choice, but 
of necessity. We hope our esteemed Can- 
adian friends will continue to hold the 
Cooking-School Magazine in no less favor 
than they have formerly done. 



CURRENT THOUGHT 

AMONG the matters of absorbing in- 
terest, at the present time, are the 
doings of the Peace Congress, held 
recently in New York, the coming Peace 
Conference at the Hague, the wide-spread 
discussion of the disarmament of the 
nations, the progress of the Panama Canal, 
and the final adjustment of the Philippine 
question. Apropos of these things, listen 
to what Richard Cobden wrote in 1843 : 
''In the close council of every king, or 
president, or prince, should be a man of 
affairs whose life is devoted to commerce 
and labor, and the needs and require- 
ments of peace. His work is of far greater 
moment than that of men of war. Battle- 
ships ever form a suggestion for their use, 
and as long as we have armies, men will kill, 
fight and destroy. Soldiers who do not 
want to fight are not of this earth. Pre- 
pare for war and war will come. When 
government gives to the arts of peace the 
same thought and attention that it gives to 
the arts of war, we will have peace on earth 
and good will among men. But so long as 
the soldier takes precedence of the busi- 
ness man in the political courts of the 
world, famine, death, disease and want will 
crouch at our doors. Commerce is pro- 
duction, war is destruction. The laws of 
production and distribution must and will 
be made a science; and then and not until 
then will happiness come to mankind and 
this earth serve as a pattern for the para- 
dise of another life, instead of being a 
pandemonium. ' ' 



EDITORIALS 



23 



EARNING A LIVING 

WE are coming to regard econom- 
ical efficiency as the real test of 
training. Too many a college 
graduate finds himself unfitted to earn a 
respectable livelihood. In the fine of effort 
he wishes to pursue there is no demand, or 
the experienced workman only is required. 
Now, it is evident, the time comes when 
every young person should ask himself: 
** What can I do best? How can I earn a 
living and make myself most efficient as a 
co-worker in the work of the world?" 
Having once decided these questions, he 
should direct his training with an eye single 
to that purpose. Only as efficient units 
can we gain or maintain a place in life to- 
day. 

This same idea is finding its way into 
our public schools. The old-time, uniform, 
mechanical methods are fast losing favor. 
The intelligent, thoughtful teacher is trying, ' 
today, to find out what individual pupils 
can do best, and then to give them an op- 
portunity to achieve along the line of their 
own special or favored subjects. Why 
should not every one be given a chance to 
make the most of his or her respective 
gifts ? The attempt of an educational sys- 
tem to grind out a uniform and mediocre 
product is deservedly a failure. Human 
beings are not so constituted. Each has 
some individual characteristic or trait that 
is best worthy of cultivation. Again, the 
main thing is to train for efficiency, that is, 
first, in earning a living. 

How well Ruskin wrote on this subject: 
^' Sure good," he says, ''is first in feeding 
people, then in dressing people, then in 
lodging people, and lastly, in rightly pleas- 
ing people with arts or sciences or any 
other subject of thought." ''You will 
find," he continues, " nearly every educa- 
tional problem solved as soon as you truly 
want to do something; everybody will be- 
come of use in their own fittest way, and 
will learn what is best for them to know in 
that use. You may see continually girls 
who have never been taught to do a single 
useful thing thoroughly;, who cannot sew, 



who cannot cook, who cannot cast an ac- 
count, nor prepare a medicine, whose whole 
life has been passed either in play or in 
pride. You will find girls like these, when 
they are earnest-hearted, cast all their in- 
nate passion of religious spirit, which was 
meant by God to support them through the 
irksomeness of daily toil, into grievous and 
vain meditation over the meaning of the 
great Book, of which no syllable was ever 
yet to be understood, but through a deed. 
All the instinctive wisdom and mercy of 
their womanhood made vain, and the glory 
of their pure consciences warped into fruit- 
less agony concerning questions which the 
laws of common seviceable life would have 
either solved for them in an instant, or kept 
out of their way. Give such a girl any true 
work that will make her active in the dawn, 
and weary at night, with the consciousness 
that her fellow-creatures have indeed been 
the better for her day, and the powerless 
sorrow of her enthusiasm will transform 
itself into a majesty of radiant and benefi- 
cient peace. ' ' 

Work, then, how to work in co-oper- 
ation with nature for the betterment of 
man's condition on earth, is the thing of 
first importance, in any system of training 
that is worth the name. Of Burbank, the 
Wizard of California, it has been said, 
he is what the right use of this world makes 
of a man. No inconsiderable part of our 
education comes from our efforts to get 
food and clothing. 



PHYSICAL WELL-BEING 

HEALTH is dependent upon physi- 
cal well-being. Naught else can 
compensate the lack of health. A 
strong physique, sound teeth and good di- 
gestive organs are the very best sort of an 
equipment for a successful, happy life. Do 
we pay sufficient heed to the laws that 
govern healthful living, or are we inclined 
to put our trust in luck and the virtue of 
nostrums? No one can violate nature's 
laws and not suffer the inevitable conse- 
quences. We reap as.we sow. There is no 
evasion of this law. 



24 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Now physical vigor and joyous health are 
determined largely by the food we eat and 
the exercise we take. Can too much care 
and attention, then, be given to diet and 
dietaries ? Have any formulas been devised 
for producing muscle and maintaining health 
save that of nature's grand law of exercise ? 
Plato said, *'To educate the mind and 
neglect the body is to produce a cripple. ' ' 
The balanced mind, the one capable of really 
great feats, demands a sound, bodily habitat. 
Physical perfection is a thing we are apt to 
fall away from through our own faults; it is 
a condition we must get back to by our own 
efforts. Let us be reminded that the season 
is now calling us to more active and healthful 
exercise out of doors. 



same way, except, of course, in those 
grades for which they are especially 
adapted. 



WOMEN AS TEACHERS 

PROFESSOR SELIGMAN, who 
holds the chair of poHtical economy 
at Columbia University, believes 
that woman is unfitted for competition with 
man in the sphere of higher education; be- 
cause when women must be paid as much 
as men, then men will be employed. He 
explains: "The attempt of the women 
teachers to secure salaries equal to those of 
the men seems to me to be of questionable 
wisdom. If we take the broad field of in- 
dustry, we find that with few exceptions the 
remuneration of women is ordinarily lower 
than that of men, even when the work ac- 
complished seems to be the same. The 
economic reasons for this are obvious and 
well understood. Whenever the pay of 
women in those occupations where they 
come into direct competition with men has 
been made the same, the result has been 
that the women have been entirely crowded 
out of the industry, and that they have been 
relegated to such occupations where they 
did not come into direct competition with 
the men. 

''The same tendency would, in my 
opinion, be observable before long in the 
occupation of teaching. If the pay of wom- 
en were made precisely equal to that of 
men, I should expect to see the women 
gradually forced out of teaching in the 



EATING TO MUSIC 

DISPATCHES from London inform 
us that there is discussion concern- 
ing the peptic value of music. ' ' The 
verdict of alimentarians seems to be that it 
mainly depends upon the quality and loud- 
ness of the music. " " Soft, dreamy music 
ought to have a soothing effect upon the 
nerves, thereby promoting digestion. Many 
persons cannot eat when music is being 
played without keeping time to it with their 
jaws." 

The fact that many persons cannot eat 
to music without keeping time with their 
jaws served Mr. Thomas Hardy in ''Un- 
der the Greenwood Tree. ' ' Michael Mail 
told his experience: 

"Truly now, there's a friendly tie of 
some sort between music and eating. Once 
I was sitting in the little kitchen of the 
Three Choughs at Casterbridge, having a 
bit of a dinner, and a brass band struck up 
in the street. Such a beautiful band as that 
were ! I was sitting eating fried Hver and 
lights, I well can mind — ah, I was ! and to 
save my life I could n' t help chawing to the 
tune. Band played six-eight time; six- 
eight chaws I, willy-nilly. Band plays 
common; common time went my teeth 
among the fried liver and lights as true as 
a hare. Beautiful 'twere ! Ah, I shall 
never forget that there band ! ' ' 

Experiments with music should be made 
on Fletcherites. Would a hardened mas- 
ticator be moved to injurious acceleration 
by eating, say cold slaw, to an exciting 
two-step? Would constant practice with 
Handel's Largo convert a bolter to a ru- 
minative person of bovine placidity? We 
are all incUned to gobble at home or in a 
restaurant. If there must be music in 
public dining-rooms, no movement should 
be allowed faster than an andante moho. 
Even an andante con moto should be rig- 
orously forbidden. — Boston Herald. 




Strawberry Trifle, Page 30 



Seasonable Recipes 

By JANET M. HILL 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Sardines for Hors d' oeuvre 
Service 

Wipe the oil from the sardines, remov- 
ing at the same time the skin. If the sar- 
dines are large, separate them into two 
fillets, discarding the backbone. Put a 
layer of sliced onion in an earthen disli; 
on this dispose the fillets and sprinkle in 
half a dozen pepper corns; repeat the layers 
of onions and sardines till all are used. 
Mix four tablespoonfuls of olive oil and one 
of vinegar and pour over the whole. If 
more dressing be needed to moisten the 
fish, use oil and vinegar in the same pro- 
portion, cover closely and set aside in a 
cool place. To serve, remove the fillets 
of fish to a glass dish, garnish with quarters 
of lemon and sprigs of parsley, pepper- 
grass or cress. Serve at the same time tiny 
bread and butter sandwiches, pulled bread, 
bread sticks, toasted bread, etc. 

Hors d' oeuvres, Italian Style 
Hors d' oeuvres served after the Italian 



style are placed in a dish divided into com- 
partments. The dishes have from two to 
five compartments, and usually there is 
a different article in each compartment. 
The dish is passed, that each may help 
himself to what he wishes. A dish of two 
compartments might be supplied with a 
savory, as caviare, slices of pickled and 
smoked tongue, imported sausages in tiny 
slices, potted meat, and bread in some 
form. A dish of five compartments might 
be supplied with two savories, pimolas or 
olives, bread in some form, green or fancy 
butter. The various compartments should 
be daintily and appropriately decorated. 

Cream of Asparagus Soup 

Cut the tips from a bunch of asparagus, 
and cook these until tender, in boiling, salted 
water. Then drain and set aside to serve 
in the soup. Pour the water in which the 
tips were cooked over the rest of the bunch 
of asparagus, cut in small pieces, with 
enough more -water to cover, and let sim- 
mer until tender, ^lash, and press tli rough 



26 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a coarse puree sieve. There should be 
between one and two cups of pulp and 
liquid. For a soup delicately flavored with 




Pimolas and Salted Almonds 

asparagus use one quart of milk, or half 
milk and half chicken, or veal stock. Scald 
the milk with a slice of onion and two 
sprigs of parsley. Cream one-fourth a cup 
of butter, and beat into it one-fourth a cup 
of flour. Gradually dilute this with the 
hot milk, until it is of a consistency to pour, 
and stir into the rest of the hot milk. When 
the mixture thickens, cover and let cook 
fifteen minutes. Remove the onion and 
parsley. Add one teaspoonful of salt, a 
dash of pepper, the hot puree, and the 
cooked tips, and serve at once. For a 
richer soup add the beaten yolks of two 
eggs diluted with half or a whole cup of 
cream. Add the yolks before the tips. 




Sardines with Lemon, Page 25 

Cream of Pearl Barley Soup 

Wash and drain one-fourth a cup of pearl 
barley; pour on about two quarts of cold 



water and let stand over night — if con- 
venient. In the morning set the barley 
and water over the fire to cook, stirring 
occasionally until the boiling point is 
reached; then add an onion, in which three 
cloves have been pressed, and three 
branches of parsley, and let cook, replen- 
ishing the water as needed until the barley 
is tender. It will take five or six hours. 
Remove the onion, cloves and parsley, and 
press the barley through a puree sieve; 
add veal, lamb or chicken broth (crmilk), 
to reduce the barley to the proper con- 
sistency — between two and thrse pints will 
be needed — and if necessary press again 
through the sieve. Beat the yolks of two 
eggs; add half or a cup of cream and stir 
into the soup, made hot over the fire. Do 
not let the soup boil after the egg is added. 
Add salt as needed and serve at once. 

Salmon Croquettes in Potato 

Nests 

Have ready cold, boiled or baked salmon; 
separate it into flakes, making the pieces 
about half an inch square. There should 
be a scant pint of the fish. Season the fish 
with a Httle salt and pepper and, perhaps, 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter; cook in it half a cup 
of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of paprika, then add a cup and a half 
of rich milk, or a cup of chicken or veal 
broth, and half a cup of cream; stir and 
cook until the sauce boils, then beat in a 
well-beaten egg and, when 
the egg is ''set," lightly 
mix in the fish, carefully 
drained. Turn the mixture 
into a buttered agate or 
earthen dish, and when cold 
shape into balls in the hands; 
roll the balls under the hand 
on a board, to give them a 
cork shape, then roll them in 
fine, soft bread crumbs, 
cover them with beaten egg 
and again roll in crumbs, first adding a 
tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley to 
the crumbs. Fry in deep fat (fat to cover) 
about one minute; drain on soft paper and 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



27 



and set into potato nests. Finish with a 
spoonful of cooked peas, dressed with but- 
ter, salt and pepper, and disposed around, 
and a sprig of parsley in the top of each 
croquette. 

Potato Nests 

Drain boiled potatoes when they are 
tender, sprinkle with salt, partly cover with 
a towel, and when dried off a Uttle press 
them through a ricer into the hot kettle; 
add salt and butter, also hot milk or cream 
as needed. Beat until very light and white; 
on a buttered baking sheet shape as many 
rounds, three-eighths an inch thick, as 
there are croquettes. Put the rest of the 
potato into a pastry bag, to which a tube 
with a quarter an inch opening has been 
fitted. Press the potato on to the edge of 
each round in short lengths to represent 
straws. Brush the straw^s with beaten egg 
and set the sheet into a hot oven to brown 
the straws slightly. Then use as above. 

Hamburg Roast 

Chop together very fine, two pounds of 
beef from the top of the round, freed from 
all fat and fibres, four ounces of beef marrow 
and two or three small sprigs of parsley; add 
a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika and 
a beaten egg; mix all together into a com- 
pact shape, longer than wide. SHde the 
meat on to a buttered baking sheet, spread 
with flour and butter, or 
drippings, creamed to- 
gether and set to cook 
in a hot oven. When 
the meat is seared over 
on the outside, reduce 
the heat. Let cook 
about half an hour, bast- 
ing frequently with drip- 
pings. Serve with sauce 
made in the pan after 
the removal of the 
meat. 

Chicken Mousse with Pate de 

foie gras 

Scald one cup of chicken broth flavored 
with onion, carrot, parsley, and bit of bay 



leaf. Beat the yolks of three eggs; add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper, and cook in the hot broth until the 




Hors d' oeuvres, Italian Style, Page 25 

mixture thickens. Remove from the fire, add 
one tablespoonful of granulated gelatine, 
softened in one-fourth a cup of cold broth, 
and pour over half a cup of cooked chicken 
breast, measured after being chopped fine, 
pounded with a pestle and pressed through 
a sieve. Set the mixture into a dish of ice 
and water and stir constantly until it begins 
to thicken, then fold into it one cup of 
double cream, beaten solid. Have ready 
some individual moulds decorated with 
rounds cut from slices of truffle (the 
cooked chicken gizzard cut in slices may be 
used), and blanched pistachio nuts cut in 
quarters, also a jar of pate de foie gras, 
cut in small cubes (less than half an inch). 




Salmon Croquettes in Potato Nests, Page 26 



When the mixture is firm enough to hold 
its shape, put it into the moulds, adding a 
cube of foie gras here and there, make the 
top smooth and set aside to become thor- 
oughly chired. Serve with lettuce that 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



has been seasoned with French dressing. 

Tenderloin Cutlets, Filippini 
Chop very fine one pound of raw beef 




Tenderloin Cutlets, Filippini 

tenderloin, half a pound of raw veal, and 
four ounces of beef marrow, and set these 
on the ice to chill. Peel six fresh mush- 
rooms; cut the caps in small pieces and 
brown these in a Httle butter in a frying 
pan; remove from the fat in the pan and 
add to the first ingredients with an ounce 
(two tablespoonfuls) of cooked ham cut in 
small squares, one tablespoonful of brandy, 
one tablespoonful of sherry, three table- 
spoonfuls of cream, a generous half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of pepper, also a grating of nutmeg. Mix 
all together very thoroughly. Divide the 
preparation into twelve equal parts, and roll 
each part into a cutlet shape, flattening 







"iiHi^^ 


1^ 


h 

r 


i^^^S 


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n 


^^^ 



bacon fat, hi a frying pan; lay the cutlets 
side by side, and let fry five minutes on 
each side. Pour a Bernaise sauce on to a 
hot dish, dress the cutlets in the sauce 

crown shape, and serve at once. 

Omit the brandy, wine and nut- 
meg at discretion. 

Bernaise Sauce 

Peel and chop fine half a small 
onion; add two teaspoonfuls of 
crushed pepper corns, a table- 
spoonful of tarragon vinegar and 
four tablespoonfuls of plain vin- 
egar; let the mixture stand on the 
range until half of the vinegar has 
evaporated, then turn the contents of the 
saucepan into a cheese cloth and press out 
the liquid into the pan; add the raw yolks 
of four eggs, beat a little, then add two 
ounces (one-fourth a cup of softened, but 
not melted j butter, and set the dish into 
hot water; stir and cook, adding, mean- 
while, a second two ounces of butter; when 
the mixture thickens, remove from the fire, 
add a little paprika and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful or more of salt, and serve as 
directed. Or serve in a dish apart. 

New Potatoes, Fried 

Scrape the skin from the potatoes, to 
leave them free of all skin. Put into a kettle 
of hot fat as many of the 
whole potatoes as will cover 
the surface of the fat, and 
let cook until tender. It 
will take about half an hour. 
Drain on soft paper and 
sprinkle with salt. Serve 
with roast or broiled meat. 



Chicken Mousse with Pate de foie gras, Page 27 



them well; cover each with melted butter 
and then with fine, soft bread crumbs. 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, or 



Saratoga Potatoes 
Select smooth potatoes of 
same size and long rather 
than round, and pare and cut 
them into thin, even slices. 
The slices must be of uni- 
form thickness throughout, 
or they will not cook evenly. Cover the 
prepared potatoes with cold water to whi'-^h 
a piece of ice has been added. Let staui 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



29 



an hour or longer, to become cold and 
crisp. Dry on a soft cloth, a few at a time, 
and cook at once in hot fat, keeping the 
slices separated with a skimmer. Take for 
frying, fat that has not been 
previously used for frying. 
Cook to a pale straw color, 
drain on the skimmer, then on 
tissue paper. Keep hot at 
the mouth of the oven until 
all are cooked. Sprinkle with 
salt before serving. 

Sweetbread Salad in 

Cucumber Boats 

Select small cucumbers. 
Pare and cut them, pointed 
at one end and round at the 
other, in shape of a boat. 
Carefully scoop out the cen- 
ters. Cut the portion taken out into small 
cubes and set the whole aside in ice water, 
to become crisp. Have ready cooked 
sweetbreads (braised or sauted j, cut in 
small cubes and seasoned with French 
dressing. Set these aside, to become mari- 
nated and chilled. When ready to serve 
drain the cucumbers and dry both boats 
and cubes on a cloth. Season the cubes 
with French dressing, to which a httle onion 
juice or a few fine-chopped olives have 
been added; mix these with the sweetbread 



Strawberry Cup 

Boil one quart of water and two cups of 
sugar twenty minutes; add half a teaspoon- 




Frying Saratoga Potatoes 

ful of gelatine, softened ui three or four 
tablespoontuls of cold water, and strain; 
when cold add one cup and three-fourths 
of orange juice and the juice of one lemon 
and freeze as usual. Hull, wash and drain 
a basket of strawberries; cut the berries into 
halves and pour over them a syrup made by 
boiling a cup and a half, each, of sugar and 
water, six or eight minutes. Let the syrup 
become cold before pouring it over the ber- 
ries. Kirsch or maraschino may be added 
at discretion. To serve, half fill chilled 



W ' 








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Improvised and Real Double Boilers, Page y] 



cubes and use to fill the boats. Set the boats 
on a bed of heart leaves of curly lettuce and 
press a small leaf into the salad at one end 
of each boat, for a sail. . Serve at once. 



glasses with the fruit mixture and finish with 
a spoonful of the sherbet. Or, put the 
sherbet into the cup first and pour over it 
a few spoonfuls of the fruit mixture. Other 



3° 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



fruit juice may replace tlie orange juice. If 
lemon juice be selected, one cup and a 
fourth of juice will suffice. 




Sweetbread Salad in Cucumber lioats, Page 29 



sugar; soften a scant half a tablespoonful of 
gelatine in one-eighth a cup of cold water 
and dissolve by setting the dish into hot 
water. Put the dissolved gel- 
atine into the sugar and ber- 
ries and set the dish in ice 
and water; stir constantly until 
the mixture begins to thicken, 
then fold in the cream. If at 
hand, add the juice of half a 
lemon to the strawberries and 
sugar; it will accentuate the 
flavor of the berries. By using 
one half as much more of each 
ingredient in the p a r f a i t 
enough may be made to fill 
the mould without the fruit 
sherbet. 



Strawberry Parfait with Orange 

Sherbet 

Boil one cup of sugar and two cups of 
water fifteen minutes, after boiling begins, 
then let cool and add one cup of orange 
juice and the juice of half a lemon; freeze 
as usual, then pack in the bottom of a quart 
mould, making the top of the ice very 
smooth. Above this dispose a parfait prepa- 
ration, cover with a paper and over this press 
the cover of the mould. Let stand two or 
three hours packed in equal measures of 
ice and salt. For the parfait whip one cup 



Strawberry Trifle 

Use sponge cake, either fresh or stale. 
Cut the cake into half-inch slices. Hull 
and wash a basket and a half of strawber- 
ries. Reserve a few choice berries; crush 
and strain the imperfect ones and cut the 
others in halves. Mix the berry juice with 
sugar and in another dish mix the halved 
berries with sugar. Put a layer of the pre- 
pared cake in a glass dish, pour over it a 
little of the fruit juice, then put in some of 
the prepared berries. Continue until the 
dish is full. Decorate the top with a cup 




Strawberry Cup in Several Styles of Glasses, Vage 29 

of cream until firm; hull, wash and drain of whipped cream and the whole berries. 
a generous cup of strawberries; mash the The cake may also be served, in the same 
berries and mix them with half a cup of way, with other berries or sliced peaches. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



Strawberry Tarts 

Prepare a rich pastry, as for pies, enough 
for a small pie. Roll the pastry 
into a sheet and cut into seven 
rounds about three and a half 
inches in diameter. Heat one- 
fourth a cup of butter and half a 
cup of water to the boihng point, 
then sift in half a cup of pastry 
flour and stir and cook to a thick, 
smooth paste; turn this into a 
bowl and beat into it the yolk of 
an egg; when smooth beat in a 
whole egg, then pipe the mixture 
(chou-pastej on to the edge of 
the rounds of pastry set on to a 
baking sheet. Bake in an oven of good heat 
at the bottom. It will take from fifteen to 
twenty minutes. Have ready, hulled, 
washed and drained, a basket of strawber- 
ries; cut the berries in halves and mix them 
with sugar; mix a cup of thick cream with 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and beat it firm. Put 
the prepared berries into the open space in 
the tarts and pipe the cream above them; 
sprinkle the cream with blanched-and- 
chopped pistachio nuts. When cream is 
not available, put a generous spoonful of 
''English cream" (the mixture used as 
a fining for cream cakes and eclairs J in 
each tart and pile the strawberries above 
it. The pastry is best when hot. 

Snow Cake 

Beat three-fourths a cup of 
butter to a cream and gradually 
beat in one cup and a half of 
granulated sugar. Sift together, 
several times, two cups of flour, 
one cup of cornstarch and three 
level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der; add to the butter and 
sugar, alternately, with one cup 
of milk; lastly add the whites of 
seven eggs, beaten light, and one 
teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla 
extract. Bake in two pans, or one large 
sheet, about forty minutes. AMien cold 
cover with strawberry frosting. For half 



the recipe use three ounces (about one- 
third a. cup) of butter and the whites of 
four small eggs. 




Strawberry Parfait and Orange Sherbet 

Strawberry Frosting 

Crush one cup of hulled-and-washed 
strawberries; add one-third a cup of sugar 
and let stand an hour or more, then press 
through a fine sieve; add a tablespoonful 
of lemon juice and confectioner's sugar to 
make a paste that will spread and remain 
in place on the cake. Use hot. 

Recipes for Family of Two 

Plain Junket with Whipped 

Cream 

■ Crush one-fourth a junket tablet and let 
it dissolve in a tablespoonful of cold water. 
Heat one cup of rich milk and two or three 




Strawberry Tarts 



level tablespoonfuls of sugar to about 90' 
F. As milk heats to this degree very 
quickly, the safest way is to set a thermom- 



32 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



eter into it on putting it over the fire. Re- 
move from the fire, take out the thermom- 
eter, and stir in half a teaspoonful of vanilla 




Caramel Junket with Whipped Cre< 

or a tablespoonfu' or two of sherry wine 
and the dissolved tablet. A few grains of 
silt, less than one-fourth a teaspoonful, may 
improve the dish for some. Pour the prep- 
aration into two glass cups; let stand in 
a warm place till it jellies, then set aside in a 
cool ph.ce to become chilled. A short time 
before serving put a tablespoonful of sugar 
and a few drops of flavoring into one-third 
a cup of double cream and beat it solid to 
the bottom of the bowl. With a bag and 
tube, or a spoon, put the cream on to the 
top of the junket. 

Caramel Junket 

Stir two level tablespoonfuls of sugar over 
the fire until the sugar is dissolved and be- 
comes a rich caramel color; add three or 
four tablespoonfuls of water and let cook 
to a thick syrup; add the syrup, a table- 
spoonful of sugar and a few grains of salt 



to a cup of milk and heat to 90° F. ; add 
one-fourth a junket tablet, dissolved as 
above, and finish in the same way. 

Chocolate Junket 

Dissolve one-fourth an 
ounce of chocolate over hot 
water; add three tablespoon- 
fuls, each, of sugar and boil- 
ing water, and heat to the 
boiling point; add a cup of 
milk and half a teaspoonful of 
vanilla, test with the thermom- 
eter and, if the mixture is not 
at 90° F. , heat it to that de- 
Q gree; add one-fourth a junket 

tablet, dissolved as before, 
and finish in the same manner. These are 
simple, inexpensive desserts that admit of 
many variations. Coffee, crumbs of sponge 
cake or brown bread, spices, preserved 
ginger, cooked figs or dates, etc., etc., 
are among the articles suitable for this use. 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter 

(For Broiled Meats and Fish) 

Beat two tablespoonfuls of butter to a 
cream; beat in one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, a dash of pepper and half a teaspoon- 
ful of fine-chopped parsley; then add a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice, a few drops at a 
time. For red pepper butter, add in the 
place of the parsley, one or two chilli pep- 
pers chopped fine. A few drops of onion 
juice may be added. Butter is beaten to a 
cream, when it is of a smooth cream-like 
consistency, and the edges look whitish. 




Snow Cake, Strawberry Icing, Page 31 



Menus for Family of Two (June) 

Plain, simple foods, as direct as possible from fields, orchards and woods, should always be our aim. 



Breakfast 

Pineapple. 

Yeast Rolls, Butter. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Hot Hamburg Roast, 

Brown Sauce. Baked Potatoes. 

Stringless Beans, Buttered. 

Cress, French Dressing. 

Individual Strawberry Shortcakes. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 

Supper 

Sardines. 

Thin Bread and Butter. 

Olives. 

Cheese. Crackers. 

Lemonade. 



Breakfast 

Green Pea Omelet, Bacon, Broiled. 

Twin Mountain Muffins. 

Honey. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Lettuce-and- Salmon Salad. 
Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 
Slice of Pineapple. 

Dinner 

Two Slices from Fillet of Beef, Broiled, 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 

Boiled Asparagus, HoUandaise Sauce. 

New Potatoes. 

Sugared Pineapple. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Toasted Com Flakes, Cream, 

Scrambled Eggs. 

Baking-powder Biscuit 

Grape Fruit Marmalade. 

Tea. 

Luncheon for One 

Potato-and-Sardine Salad. 

New Rye-meal Bread and Butter. 

A Canned Pear. 

Cookies. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cold Hamburg Roast. 

Old Potatoes, Boiled and Mashed. 

Asparagus, Butter Sauce. 

Strawberries, Cream. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Eggs Poached in Timbale Moulds on Toast, 

Cream Sauce. 

Marmalade. Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Deviled Ham Sandwich. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Custard Pie. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Rump of Veal, Roasted, 

Brown Sauce. 

Potatoes Cooked with Veal. 

Green Peas. Lettuce. 

Strawberries. Custard Pie. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Supreme. 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Rye-meal Bread, Toasted. 

Stewed Rhubarb. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Beef-and-Potato Hash. 

Sliced Banana, Top of Milk. 

Velvet Sponge Cake. Tea. 

Dinner 

Fresh S^jlmon, Boiled, Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Green Peas. Cucumbers. 

Strawberries. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Cold Veal, Sliced Thin. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Rice Griddle Cakes, 

Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

White Sauce Thickened with Cheese 

On Toast. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Doughnut. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Half a Blue Fish, Broiled. 

Mashed Potatoes. Peas. 

Cucumber, French Dressing. 

Strawberries. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe. 

Lyonnese Potatoes. Radishes. 

Toast. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon for One 

Cold Veal, Sliced Thin. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Hot Toast. 

Caramel Junket. 

Tea. 



Dinner 

Veal Souffle, 

White Sauce with Peas. 

Scalloped Tomatoes (Canned). 

Individual Strawberry Shortcake. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Menus for Week in July 

{Dinners at Noon) 

Fruits and vegetables should not, as a rule, be eaten together ; that is at the same meal. The grains digest well with all 
other foods. — S. M. Dodds. 



Breakfast 

Egg-O-See, Raspberries, Cream. 
Creamed Corned Beef. 
Twin Mountain Muffins. 
Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Polish Buck (May, 1907), Brown Sauce. 

New Potatoes. Asparagus, 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Home Grown Lettuce and Pepper Grass, 

French Dressing. 

Raspberry Sherbet, Whipped Cream. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Lettuce-and-Bluefish Salad. 

Rye-meal Bread and Butter. 

Little Cakes, Chocolate Frosting. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Cresco Grits, Berries, Cream. 
Hashed Calf's Liver (April, 1907). 

Baked Potatoes. 

Rye-meal Muffins (March, 1903). 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Rechaufee of Lamb, Macaroni and Tomatoes. 

Boiled Onions, Buttered. 

Cress Salad. 

Tapioca Custard Pudding (April, 1906). 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Lettuce-and-Bluefish Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Plain Sponge Jelly Roll (April, 1906). 

Canned Pears. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Corned Beef Hash, 

Scrambled Eggs Above. 

Entire Wheat Biscuit, Baking Powder. 

Baked Rhubarb. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Mint Sauce. 

Whole Potatoes, Fried. 

Peas. 

Huckleberry Pie. 

Small Cups of Coffee. 

Supper 

Cream Toast. 
Zwieback. 
Blueberries. Almond Crisps. 
Tea. 



Breakfast 

Berries, Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Lamb, Green Pepper and Potato Hash. 

Fried Wheat-Cereal. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Boiled Fowl. 

Macaroni with Cheese. 

Stringless Beans. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Spring Sherbet (April, 1907). 

Supper 

Chicken, Creole Style (Dec, 1905). 

Boiled Rice. Milk. 

Almond Crisps. 

Berries. 

Tea. 



Breakfast 

Toasted Corn Flakes, Berries, Cream. 

Hashed Veal on Toast. 

Parker House Rolls (Jan., 1905). 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked, 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Potatoes. New Beets, Boiled and Buttered. 

Rhubarb Pie (April, 1905), 

Cream Cheese. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Supper 

Boiled Rice, Cream, 

Blueberry Tea Cake. 

Cream Cheese. Berries. 

Wafers. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Egg-O-See, Cream. 
Broiled Mackerel, Salt or Fresh. 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Corn Meal Muffins (Dec, 1903). 

Picked Pineapple. Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Fresh Fish Chowder (June- July, 1904). 

Cucumbers. 

French Bread (Feb., 1906). 

Pineapple Dessert (April, '07). 

Cream Cheese, Browned Crackers. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Chicken Soup. Green Peas. 

Bread and Butter. 
Sponge Cake. Berries. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Green Pea Omelet. 

Bacon. Baked Potatoes. 

Radishes. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Cereal Coffee. 



Dinner 

Boiled Fresh Salmon, 

Caper Sauce (June-July, 1906). 

Boiled Potatoes. Peas. 

Cucumbers, French Dressing. 

Red Raspberry Shortcake. 

Coffee. 



Supper 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Little Chocolate Frosted 

Cakes. 

Cocoa. 



Menus for Occasions in June and July 

Friends to congratulate their friends made haste ; 
And long inveterate foes saluted as they passed. 

Breakfast Party (June) 

Strawberries dipped in Fondant. 

Clam Broth (Fresh or Canned). 

Baked Blue Fish, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Buttered Asparagus Tips on Sweedish Rosettes. - 

Tenderloin Cutlets, Filippini. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Individual Pineapple Omelet (May, '05). 

Coffee. 



Breakfast Party (July) 

Melons. 

Iced Bouillon. 

Salmon Croquettes in Potato Nests. Peas. 

Cucumbers, French Dressing. 

Larded Sweetbreads, Baked and Glazed, 

Spanish Sauce. Tiny String Beans, Buttered. 

Small English Muffins, Toasted. Philadelphia Cream 

Cheese. Strawberry Bar-le-Duc. 

Coffee. 



Wedding Reception (June) 

I 

Chicken Mousse with Pat^ de foie gras, 

Lettuce or Cress, French Dressing. 

Sandwiches. Rolls. 

Fruit Cup. Assorted Cakes. 

Grape Juice Lemonade. 

II 

Snow Cake, Strawberry Frosting. 

Little Angel Cakes, White Frosting. 

Little Chocolate Cakes, Maple Frosting. 

Chocolate Frapp^. 

Ill 

Tiny Angel Cakelets. 

Waldorf Triangles. 

Salted Almonds. Green and White Mints. 

Pineapple Sherbet. Fruit Punch. 



Class Day Spread 

I 

Swiss Chicken Salad. (Chicken, Nuts, Peas, Cucumbers). 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches. 

Tiny Cream Cakes, Whipped Cream Filling. 

Chocolate Frapp^. Strawberry Ice Cream. 

II 

Lettuce-and-Salmon Salad. 

Buttered Rolls. 

Strawberry Sherbet, Whipped Cream or 

Vanilla Ice Cream, Strawberry Sauce. 



Cookery for Young Housekeepers 



By JANET M, HILL ■ 
LESSON IV 
Cooking of True Proteids 
Milk. (A Perfect Food) 



WHEN we are to cook a new 
article, we should ask ourselves 
these questions: How will heat 
affect this ? What is its composition ? In 
our first lesson we found in milk an elastic, 
tenacious curd called casein, which was 
hardened by a high degree of heat. We 
also found a greenish liquid (whey), which 
we rightly suspect to be largely water. If 
we let a saucepan of milk remain over the 
fire for some time, a scum will form on the 
top; this is probably casein. Pour off the 
milk, and we find coagulated particles on 
the bottom of the dish. Albumin is co- 
agulated by heat, and we conclude that, at 
least, a small quantity of albumin is found 
in milk. Let a cup or more of rich milk 
stand over night, and a thick (compara- 
tively), yellowish substance will rise to the 
top of the milk; put a teaspoonful or more 
of this ''top-milk" into your cup of hot 
coffee, and a few globules of /<2/ will float 
on the top of the coffee. The whey holds 
in solution a little mineral matter and milk 
sugar. Thus, we have in milk proteid (in 
the form of casein and albumin), water, fat, 
carbohydrate (milk sugar), and mineral 
matter, the five food principles. Thus, 
cow's milk is often called a perfect food; it 
is for the young calf, but the food princi- 



ples are not found in the right proportion 
to make it a perfect food for human beings. 
The calf, on milk alone, builds up a large, 
heavy framework of bone in a few months. 
Many years must pass before a child reaches 
a similar stage of physical development. 
Thus, to make cow's milk a perfect food 
for a child, the bone-making elements need 
to be reduced and other changes made, or 
the milk, as we say, should be ' ' modified. ' * 
An adult would not find it comfortable to 
take all his food in liquid form. The food 
elements in milk are combined with too large 
a proportion of water to make such a diet 
feasible; but when a glass of milk forms a 
part of any meal, the other proteid in the 
meal should be cut down accordingly. We 
should also keep in mind the quantity of 
milk used in cooking; as — if we provide a 
dish of cream toast (toast with thickened 
milk), we are supplying more proteid than 
when we have dry toast with butter. 

Cooking Milk 

We know that proteid is toughened by 
high heat, and that, in general, any process 
that hardens or toughens a food substance 
hinders the process of digestion; thus, when 
we consider the composition of milk, we 
would naturally conclude that milk, if 



COOKERY FOR YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS 



37 



cooked at all, should be cooked at a low 
temperature. However, there are people 
who seem to digest boiled milk better than 
that which has not been so treated, and, 
possibly, these are the exceptions that prove 
the rule. But while there may be some 
doubt on this point, there is no question 
but that the flavor of burned milk is abso- 
lutely unpalatable. Milk cooked directly 
over the fire burns very easily; also, when 
once the boiling point is reached, the bub- 
bles, on account of the large proportion of 
solid material in the milk — do not break 
and scatter, but pile up, one above an- 
other, until the mass overflows the dish. 
Then, for this reason, if for no other, milk, 
whenever it is possible, should be cooked 
by some means that keeps it from being 
heated to the boiling point. For such pur- 
poses we have the ' ' double boiler. ' ' Two 
dishes are arranged, one inside the other, 
in such a manner that water surrounds the 
inner dish up to within, perhaps, two inches 
of the top. Thus, water stands between 
the article to be cooked and the heat, and 
the temperature of the cooking article never 
reaches that of boiling water. By this 
means, all risk of burning or overcooking 
is obviated. 

After the water in the outer vessel has 
been boiling a few moments, small bubbles 
will appear close to the kettle, and at the 
surface of milk, in the inner boiler. These 
bubbles indicate that the milk is scalded, 
and that the temperature is about i6o** F. 
As long as water is kept in the outer kettle, 
the temperature of the milk does not rise 
higher. A double boiler is easily secured 
by setting a small saucepan on two or three 
nails disposed in a larger saucepan. 

Care of Milk 

Milk is an article that offers conditions 
favorable to the growth of minute organisms, 
which may be introduced into it from the 
air or the utensils in which it is stored. Some 
of these organisms are harmful, others are 
not. Some cause the milk to sour. The 
growth of all organisms is hastened by mild 
heat, as the death of most is assured by 
boiling heat. Dealers, who supply milk to 



cities, are from necessity careful to chill the 
milk thoroughly as soon as it is taken from the 
cow; it is, also, kept chilled until the time of 
delivery. Half an hour in a hot kitchen, or 
in the sun, will undo all this careful treat- 
ment, and hasten the time of souring. Do 
not wait until after brea::fast, but at once, as 
soon as the milk comes to your hand, set 
it aside in the coolest place at your com- 
mand. Milk, cream and butter all readily 
absorb odors and flavors, and it kept in a 
refrigerator with other food should be 
closely covered. When possible, it is well 
to reserve a separate compartment of the 
refrigerator for these products. Receptacles, 
in which these are stored, should be made 
without seams, lest stale milk, etc., may 
find lodgment in them, and kept absolutely 
clean. When a portion of the- milk is 
taken from a bottle, kept with other sup- 
plies, replace the stopper, or insert a 
fresh one before the milk is again set 
aside. 

Sour Milk 

After milk sours it becomes thick; if it 
be cut with a knife or spoon, a greenish, 
watery liquid (whey), is seen. Sour milk 
is very useful in cooking. Some cooks fancy 
they get the best results by using simply 
the whey. This may be true in making 
certain dishes. But as the nutritious com- 
pounds of the milk are largely found in the 
thick, white part, it would seem advisable, 
in general, to use that also. 

Junket 

A similar thickening of milk takes place 
when it is acted upon by rennin; this thick- 
ening may be hastened by warming the milk 
slightly. When thus prepared, the sour 
taste is not present, and by the addition of 
appropriate flavors and a little sugar, milk 
may be presented in a variety of tasty and 
attractive dishes. These are Junket or Jun- 
ket Custards. Rennin is a ferment secreted 
in the glands of the stomach, and, for use in 
cooking, is prepared from the stomach of 
the calf. It may be obtained in liquid or 
tablet form; the latter is the most conven- 
ient for use. 



38 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Cream 

Both cream and cream transformed into 
butter are considered particularly digestible 
forms of fat. The volume of a certain 
quantity of cream is increased by beating. 
This process, probably, renders the cream 
a little more digestible, as it also makes it 
more attractive. Cream taken from the top 
of the milk can, or after the milk has stood 
about twelve hours, is called thin, or single 
cream. Such cream cannot be beaten very 
firm; it contains too much milk and is not 
thick enough. Cream taken from milk that 
has been standing twenty-four hours, is 
called double, heavy or thick cream. This 
may be beaten '^ to stand alone," or until 
it is sohd to the bottom of the bowl. Thin 
cream is beaten with a whip churn, this 
contains a dasher, which is moved up and 
down in the cylinder. The froth is removed 
as it rises to the surface. Thick cream may 
be beaten most quickly with a Dover egg 
beater. To keep the cream from "spatter- 
ing," cover the bowl with a circular sheet 
of paper, and let the top of the beater 
emerge from a hole in the center. 

Butter 

Cooking butter detracts from its digesti- 
bility; thus, when it is to be used on veg- 
etables, broiled meats, fish, etc., the heat 
it receives from the article upon which it is 
served will suffice. Butter is very quickly 
afiected by heat, and will burn more quickly 



than other forms of fat; on this account, 
great care needs to be taken in its use for 
frying purposes. For this reason, and also 
on account of expense, some other form of 
fat is usually selected for cooking articles 
in the frying pan. When butter is to be 
used for frying, let it heat until all froth has 
subsided, the casein, salt, etc., has been 
deposited on the bottom of the dish, and 
the water has evaporated. The liquid fat 
may then be poured from the sediment and 
will keep almost indefinitely. 



QUESTIONS 
milk called 



IS 



perfect 



1. Why 
food?" 

2. Are cane sugar and milk sugar iden- 
tical ? 

3. Is butter a tissue builder ? Why ? 

4. Is butter a strength giver ? Why ? 

5. What is the office of butter? 

6. With what foods would you eat 
butter ? 

7. With which, rice or cornmeal, would 
you eat the most butter ? 

8. Would butter be needed with bacon 
and potatoes? 

9 Which is preferable for making a 
sauce, second grade of butter or fat from 
boiled poultry or beef? 

10. Which do you consider the more 
economical form of fat to buy, cream or 
butter? 

1 1 . Why should milk be eaten from a tea- 
spoon rather than drunk hastily from a glass? 



A Typical Dinner Menu in a Mexican City 

Guests : American, English and German People, and Government Officials 

Bean Soup (with American Cheese grated to be put in it). 

Patties filled with Shrimps a la Newburg. 

Cucumber (sliced, but left in shape), dressed with French Dressing, passed with the Patties. 

Roast Turkey. Browned White Potato. 

Peas. Sliced Tomato, hot, on Toast. 

Salad of Avocado Pears, in cubes, with English Walnuts on Lettuce. Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Olives. Crackers. Cheese. Nuts. 

Pineapple Sherbet. Wafers. 

Black Coffee. Sherry. 



Ways of Entertaining 



An Old-time Dinner 



A Profitable Afternoon 



By MRS. J. N. STUDY 



By FRANCES REED 



SHE was a middle-aged lady belong- 
ing to the fashionable set of her little 
city, and had become heartily tired of 
"Five O'clock Teas," "Receptions," 
from three to five, and select card parties. 
Her mind would go back to the days when 
her mother entertained, and that right 
royally, her friends. So the idea came to 
her to give one of those old-time affairs. I 
was fortunate in receiving an invitation. A 
trim little maid, with an old-time maid's 
cap on, with little curls hanging down from 
each ear, opened the door to us. Another 
maid, similarly attired, met us at the head of 
the stair — saying politely, " Mrs. Thomp- 
son will be pleased, if you will remove your 
hats and gloves. ' ' A little surprised, the 
ladies obeyed, and on descending, found 
the hostess dressed in a neat, gray silk, 
made with a surplice front, filled in by 
crossing a sheer handkerchief over the 
bosom. We were soon shown to the dining- 
room, where covers for twelve were laid. 
The center piece was a large bunch of cream 
and red hollyhocks. The dinner consisted 
of young, fried chicken, cream gravy, 
mashed potatoes, and hot coffee served with 
the dinner. It being early spring, little rad- 
ishes and young onions were also served. 
Old-fashioned cottage cheese, yellow with 
cream, graced the table. After the maids 
had removed the dishes, peach preserves 
and cream were served with generous slices 
of old-fashioned, yellow pound cake. Then 
the hostess told some old-time stories of 
some ancestors, and asked for other stories 
from the guests. Much merriment was 
caused, I remember, by one young lady de- 
scribing her great grandfather's trousers. 
Theywere called "Broad flaps" and buttoned 
up each side. The guests departed in high 
spirits — the hostess herself bowing them 
out. Thus ended an old-fashioned dinner, 
but one long to be remembered. 



FOUR weary teachers met in a school- 
room at 4 p. M. one day. 

''Oh ! oh ! " said one, "I am becoming 
a mental and physical wreck. ' ' 

' ' You have n' t been taking enough rec- 
reation, my dear," said one of her fellow- 
sufferers. 

"When have I time for it, my dear Miss 
Z. ? " and Miss B. looked despairingly at 
her friends. 

'• * Yes, when have we time for it ? " they 
echoed. 

"You see," Miss B. continued, "after 
school at night, I hurry home to help 
mother, who isn't strong, to prepare the 
dinner. In the evening there are papers 
to mark, averages to make out, and lessons 
to prepare, after which a chapter or two 
from some book, a splitting headache, and 
then bed. Oh, I am getting utterly worn 
out with the routine, and there are nine 
more weeks of it before us ! " 

"What do you do with your Saturday 
afternoons ? ' ' asked Miss Z. 

"Darn my stockings, sew on buttons, 
and make a fresh supply of stocks and 
belts; go to the library, and the day is 
done," answered Miss B. 

' ' I follow the same programme. ' ' 

"And I." 

"And I," from the other three. 

** I'll tell you what we ought to do girls, 
— combine duty with pleasure," and Miss 
Z' s. black eyes sparkled, as a plan suggested 
itself to her. "You know I have wanted 
you to spend an afternoon with me for ever 
so long, but no one has been able to spare 
the time, heretofore. Now, each of you 
come to my house next Saturday afternoon, 
and bring your work-bags filled with worn- 
out stockings and plenty of darning cotton. 
I'll have a few of the other girls, tod, who 
are generally rushed for time. 

Saturday dawned clear and bright. Miss 



40 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Z. was up with the sun, and did her shop- 
ping in the early morning, before stores and 
cars became crowded. Being one of the 
many who found it necessary to practice 
economy in every direction, she did her 
marketing herself, and got first choice of 
the crisp lettuce, celery and vegetables for 
the salads, and found the freshest fruits for 
the desserts. 

Then schoolmarms of various and uncer- 
tain ages gathered together in the tiny, but 
pleasant rooms occupied by the Z' s. Each 
one had to show the contents of her bag, 
and one Miss, the youngest of them, having 
brought none with her, was supplied from 
the superabundance of the others. The 
hostess then spoke. ''When I strike the 
bell, you may begin to darn. Miss B's. 
mother and mine have kindly consented to 
be judges, and will examine your work at the 
close of the hour. The one having done 
the finest work will receive a prize, and the 
one having done the most work will also be 
rewarded. ' ' 

The bell rang, and all set to work with a 
will. Tongues kept pace with needles, 
while the few who taught in different build- 
ings, compared experiences. Finally, a lull 
occurred in the conversation, which the 
hostess was quick to perceive, and for which 
she was prepared. 

A large cardboard was hung upon the 
portieres, where all could see it. On it was 
printed in large black letters: 

ROSE MOCKING 

NOSE ROCKING 

TOES SHOCKING 

HOSE STOCKING 

''Let US begin on the left side of the 
room, girls, and see what wonderful verses 
you can compose from the rhymes pro- 
vided, ' ' said Miss Z. 

" Don't try to be so awfully intelligent, 
but see who can make up the funniest and 
most ridiculous one," from the youngest 
guest. 

The first one gave one line, the next an- 
other, and so on down the line and about 
the room. 

"Our dear little Rose" 
' ' Turned up her nose, ' ' 



"When she saw holes in the toes" 
" Of her best black, silk hose. ' ' 

' ' She sat there rocking, ' ' 
" Her mother mocking," 
' ' ( Now, is n' t that shocking, ) ' ' 
' ' Because she had been asked 
To mend her stocking. ' ' 

This doggerel was far from clever, but 
still it caused a great deal of merriment, 
and having caught the rhyming fever, their 
minds and tongues, as well as needles, were 
kept busy for much longer than the speci- 
fied hour. 

A second card was hung up, on which was 
printed, the ' ' Adventures of a Sock, ' ' and 
funny pictures cut from magazines and ad- 
vertisements were pasted on it, to serve as 
suggestions for the story. As before, the 
lady on the left began, but with a complete 
sentence instead of a line. Each one, in 
turn, gave her sentence, until a story was 
completed. Sometimes it was necessary to 
go about the room several times. 

At the tap of the second bell, work 
ceased, and each in turn, brought her 
work to the two gray-haired judges, who in- 
spected the work carefully, commending all 
for their diligence, but finally awarding the 
pair of silk hose to Miss R., for having 
made the finest darn, and an artistic little 
needle book to Miss K. , for having done 
the most work. 

A lunch was served in the dining-room, 
and at each plate was a stocking place-card, 
cut from cardboard and appropriately 
decorated. 

The girls enjoyed the simple lunch of 
sandwiches, coffee, fruit and ice cream, 
and the youngest guest voted the lace doll 
stockings in which candy was tied, as just 
' ' too cute for anything. " 



Novel Bridal Functions 

By CARRIE MAY ASHTON 

F all the showers given to recent brides, 
two have the advantage of being prac- 
tical, inexpensive and out of the ordinary. 
The first was a Bag Shower, to which 



o 



WAYS OF ENTERTAINING 



41 



each guest was invited to contribute a bag 
of some description. 

These varied in size from the tiny button 
bag to the dress bag, the latter being made 
sufficiently large to slip over agown or suit 
to protect it from dust. This bag was made 
of dainty lawn in a rose pattern, and drawn 
up with ribbon draw strings. 

There were laundry bags of linen, sub- 
stantial shoe bags, to fasten on the closet 
door, darning bags of cretonne, white linen 
handkerchief and turn-over collar bags, 
fancy work bags of pretty silk and ribbon, 
and soft bags, to put over the broom for 
cleaning the walls. 

Among the novelties noticed were a corset 
bag made of broad ribbon long enough to 
slip a corset into when not in use, fan bags 
fashioned of delicately tinted ribbon or kid, 
opera-glass bags, and little, safety, money 
and jewel bags. 

The large array of bags included leather 
hand and shopping bags as well as a good- 
sized one for traveling. 

Appropriate and amusing notes accom- 
panied each gift. 

A Brush Shower was no less acceptable, 
and included brushes for traveUng (hair, 
teeth and nails), clothes, shoes, dusting, 
lavatory use, those for polishing the hard 
wood floor, and even for blacking the 
kitchen range. 

A dainty luncheon was served at both of 
these affairs. 

The place cards for the first shower con- 
sisted of tiny dolls dressed as brides, with 
veil and orange blossoms. 

The bride-elect's chair was ornamented 
with bows of white satin ribbon. As Men- 
delssohn's wedding march struck up, two 
cunning little tots marched in with a small 
express wagon made festive with many bows 
of white ribbon, and loaded with the gifts 
for the shower. 

At a delightfully informal gathering given 
by a prospective bride to her particular girl 
friends, a week before the wedding, the in- 
vitations read as follows: 

Will you come and see my clothes Wed- 
nesday afternoon, March loth?" 

Lunch at 1.30. 



In one of the upper rooms the dainty 
outfit was to be seen, and it is more than 
likely that the occasion was much more en- 
joyable than the wedding itself. 

Below are given the quotations used on 
the place cards at a unique bridal function: 

"Here's to Dan Cupid — a merry young rogue, 
Though styles change, love 's always in vogue." 

Here 's to love, a thing divine, 
Description makes it but the less, 
' Tis what we feel, but cannot define, 
' Tis what we know, but cannot express." 

Reason dictates, judgment writes, 
Wisdom approves what 's writ; 
Love, with his dart puts all to flight, 
Laughs and erases it. 

— Albert F. Peters. 

The fountains mingle with the river, 
And the rivers with the ocean, 
And winds of Heaven mix forever 
With a sweet emotion ; 
Nothing in the world is single, 
All things by a law divine. 
In one another's being mingle, 
Why not I with thine ? 

— Shelley. 

"Then come the mild weather, 
Come sleet, or come snow, 
We will stand by each other, 
However it blow." 

" All love may be blindness — 
But where are love's eyes ? 
All love may be folly — 
Love seldom is wise, 
All love may be madness — 
Was love ever sane ? 
All love must be sorrow, 
For all love is pain." 

"Here's to the prettiest, 
Here 's to the wittiest. 
Here 's to the truest of all who are true, 
Here's to the neatest one, 
Here 's to them all in one — 
Here 's to you." 

" A toast to Dan Cupid, 
The great evil doer, 
A merciless rogue — may 
His darts ne 'er grow fewer." 

Look down, you Gc ds 
And on this couple drop a blessed crown. 
— Shakespeare. 

" Inform me next what love will do, 
'Twill strangely make a one of two." 

There swims no goose so gray, but soon or late, 
She finds some honest gander for her mate, 

— Pope. 



42 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



"Why did she love him ? Curious fool be still; 
Is human love the growth of human v^^ill ? 

— Byron. 

Here 's to north, south, east and west, 

To those four ruling parts. 

Here 's to great good fortune's path, 

Where Cupid's arrow darts ; 

Here 's to Cupid's clever bow, 

Whose aim goes to and fro ; 

Here 's to the finest of his 

Aims — the finest girl I know. 

— Raymond H. Koerner. 

Here 's to love, the worker of miracles. He 
strengthens the weak, and weakens the strong. 

He turns wise men into fools, and fools into 
wise men ; he feeds the passions and destroys 
reason, and plays havoc among young and old. 
— Marguerite de Valois. 



A 



A Unique Entertainment 

By E VEL YN PRINCE CAHO ON 
N astrologer advertised in the daily 



paper to send to any one a description 
of his disposition, for a dime. 

I made out a list of fifteen people whom 
I would like to invite for the evening. By 



a little careful questioning, I managed to 
find out the birthday of each one of these 
people. 

I wrote to the astrologer, sending a list of 
the birthdays and a dime for each, and 
received the fifteen character delinea- 
tions. 

It was then time to send out my invita- 
tions, and when my guests came, I gave 
each a card and pencil. A good reader, with 
some drollery in his make-up, read the de- 
lineations, calling each by a number instead 
of a name, and each guest wrote, after con- 
sidering the matter, the name of the person 
she thought was described. 

Of course we had no end of fun, and dis- 
cussed very amiably each other's foibles, 
and the room fairly rang with laughter, es- 
pecially when the names were read. The 
one who had judged correctly the largest 
number of names was given a prize (a 
photo previously taken of ' ' the crowd ' ' ), 
while the one with the fewest right was 
given a yeast cake, admonishing him to 
''rise" to the occasion. 



June 



Bv GRACE STONE EI ELD 



All lightly go the days. 

In mid-most June ! 
Time's in a merry mood and sways 

To a lilting tune. 
Bird notes and hum of bees — 
Soft south wind melodies — 

Harmonious cadence croon, 

In mid-most June. 



Too swiftly fly the hours. 

Of radiant June ! 
The rose her fragrance showers 

And dies too soon. 
Excess of opulence 
Smothering ev ' ry sense. 

Crowd into one brief moon 

Of radiant June. 



Short evanescent dream; 

Vision of June ! 
Drink of her brimming stream, 

List to her tune. 
So shall her memory sweet, 
Brghten ' mid snow and sleet; 

Lighten some wintry noon — 

Vision of June. 




HOME IDEAS 
AriD ECOnOMIES 




,^.Jk Jt>^A^-~JL^ft.^A-A.^^> l>...A^.JV..<A»,ra>/A||^^A..Afv>,41..A.A, 



Contributions to tms department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



City Versus Country Living 

IT is undeniably a fact that in the city 
markets one can purchase the choicest 
cuts of meat, the juiciest steaks and roasts, 
as well as fruit and vegetables in season and 
out of season, also all the trophies drawn 
from ocean's depth, such as fish, oysters, 
etc. A quiet stroll through any of the 
larger city markets will thoroughly convince 
one of this truth. 

How, then, can any one accustomed to 
the city and its liberal supplies, trans- 
planted to the country, be contented with 
simple country fare, where the sight of a 
butcher's cart is an event? Perhaps for a 
man with eager appetite this problem would 
seem to be a poser, but I, a ' ' widdy 
woman, ' ' and ' ' Hvin' by my lone, ' ' have 
learned to adapt myself to my surroundings 
and get along most comfortably with little 
or no meat. 

It must be months, I think — for here we 
take no account of time except to fill it full 
of a variety of interests — since I have had 
a steak or any other meat inside my home. 

** How do you manage ? ' ' some one asks, 
and my ready answer is, ' ' I do not even 
miss it." I am the very proud possessor 
of a flock of hens. I raise my chickens, 
too, and am surely positive no city market 
can compete with me on my spring broilers 
or my fresh-laid eggs. 

Then, too, I have a neighbor (in point 
of fact, the man is neighbor and friend to 
every one for miles around) ; he loves to 
go ' ' a-iishin, ' ' and many a speckled beauty 
and fresh pickerel or ' ' punkin seed ' ' has 
he brought to me, that I might drop it into 
my frying pan. 



In season, too, there are vegetables ga- 
lore and berries for the picking. I have 
never seen them more plentiful, either cul- 
tivated or of the field variety. Think of 
the berry shortcakes, fritters, puddings and 
pies with which one may regale oneself. 
And so, though the city markets are al- 
luring to the sight, the conclusion I have 
reached is this — give me the country, its 
freedom from all smoke and noise, its 
sweet, pure air and fresh spring water, aye, 
and its simple living. K. V. K. 

* * * 
Enameling a Bathtub 

THE painter charged a friend ^3 to 
enamel her bathtub. At 8 a. m. he 
gave it a coat of white lead. At 5 p. m., a 
coat of bathtub enamel, took his money and 
went on his way rejoicing. So did my 
friend, but not for long, in a few months it 
cracked and peeled off. 

I enameled my own tub, and it cost me 
83 cents and a few hours' time. 

After cleaning it Monday morning, I gave 
it a coat of white lead. Wednesday morn- 
ing another, Friday morning another, Sat- 
urday nigh t another — 6 coats in all. Friday 
morn I gave it a coat of White "Star" 
Bathtub Enamel. Saturday night, before 
retiring, I filled the tub with cold water, 
and let it stand 'till Sunday afternoon, 
when it was ready to use. 

I always let cold water in the tub first. 

The "Star" Bathtub Enamel can be 
found in any department store, and costs 
35 cents for a one-half pint can. 

Be sure and get bathtub enamel as there 
is another enamel used for woods that is 
not good. 



43 



44 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Shoe Bags 

ONE of my presents last Christmas to 
a friend wlio lives in her trunk, was a 
set of shoe bags. I made one of brown 
leather and bound it with ribbon for tan 
ties, another of black leather for black 
ties. A bag, rubber inside and out and 
bound with braid, for rubbers, one of blue 
cretonne for evening slippers, and one of 
cretonne, black ground with roses on it, for 
walking shoes. As these bags lie in the top 
tray of her trunk, she can see at a glance 
which pair she wants, without looking 
through each bag. 

Window Seat of Dining Table 
Leaves 

THE rack and table leaves were in the 
way in the dining-room closet, so I 
converted them into a window seat for the 
bay window. 

I bought four of the largest castors I 
could find, to make the seat as high as pos- 
sible. Then I took one of the leaves and 
rolled it up in an old quilt, and fastened it 
with furniture webbing securely to the rack. 
Then I covered this seat with red rep, and 
made valance of the same; adding a few 
pillows, no one ever suspected what the 
seat was made of. Mrs. C. W. S. 



Coat Collars 

MY husband's coat collar always be- 
came more soiled than the rest of the 
garment, and it seemed well-nigh impossi- 
ble to get the grease and dirt out with soap 
and water. Finally, I tried alcohol and salt, 
and the collar was cleaned nicely, with no 
trouble at all. 

I WONDER if there is any state in the 
union where one is free from that dread 
— malaria — and how many have tried my 
means of warding it off? Each morning just 
before breakfast, drink a glass of water, 
with the juice of half a lemon, squeezed 
into it. Do not add any sugar. R. B. 



ICE CREAM is very nice served in 
cream-puff shells. Pour a hot maple- 
dressing over this. When served in this 
manner it is not necessary to have cake 
with it. 

Another attractive way of serving ice 
cream : — Take the cream from the freezer 
with an ice-cream sco(jp. Pour a little 
cream over the ice cream and sprinkle well 
with English walnuts ground very fine. 
Place a candied cherry on top. 

R. H. W 

^ # * 

A Good Plan 

MY neighbor' s Httle girl does not like 
to go to bed as early as a child of her 
age should ; her mother has adopted the 
plan of playing the child is going some- 
where. One night it is to a party, and in 
imagination she puts on her best dress, etc. 
Mamma is the coachman who takes her to 
bed and Httle Miss is very anxious to get 
started for fear she will miss some of the 
fun. Another night she goes on a journey 
to visit friends and mamma makes her out 
a ticket for the Pullman car, and next morn- 
ing she reports a delightful journey. Mamma 
plans new journeys and places to go and she 
is getting broken of her bad habit. I think 
it is a far better plan to send her to bed 
happy, than to drive her to bed in sorrow 

or anger. G. M. 

* * * 

Simplicity First Law in Arranging 
Bedroom 

OF all rooms in the house the bed- 
room is the one where individual taste 
has the fullest play. Here one keeps one's 
personal belongings, and here it is where 
purely personal preferences may be exer- 
cised. 

But in addition to this it is, or should be, 
a space where one can go to sleep at night 
with nothing in the surroundings to de- 
press, distract, or annoy, and awaken in the 
morning to a first conscious impression of 
peace and cheerfulness. 

Nothing can make a bedroom really sat- 
isfactory when the wall paper is sombre or 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



45 



obtrusive, the fittings so inadequate that the 
inconvenience is a constant invitation to 
carelessness and disorder, the furniture 
heavy and clumsy in proportion to the size 
of the room, and the hangings fussy and 
pretentious. 

Three principles should be kept in mind 
— simplicity, convenience and cheerful- 
ness. The color scheme, of course, must 
follow individual preference, controlled 
only by the well established laws of color 
harmony and by the position and exposure 
of the room. — The Craftsman. 
* # * 

Family Meals 

Don't Let Ceremony Crush Out Cheerfulness 

and Sociability 

A CERTAIN amount of ceremony 
should be observed even at the sim- 
plest family meal, but when this is carried too 
far it crushes sociability and cheerfulness. 

One should be careful not to eat so rapid- 
ly that the food may not be properly masti- 
cated, or that one will have finished while 
the others at the table are still eating. If 
it is necessary to ask for anything during 
the meal, one should take the opportunity 
of speaking quietly to the waitress when she 
is near, or wait until it is possible to catch 
her eye. 

When a meal is announced, go to the 
table promptly. It is annoying to the house- 
keeper and cook to have the meals delayed. 
It often happens that a few minutes' wait- 
ing may spoil some dish, and in any case it 
causes a waste of precious time to the 
housekeeper and other members of the 
family. Some thoughtless people seem to 
think that it matters less that the whole 
family be kept waiting five minutes or more 
than that they should complete the work 
which they happen to have in hand. There 
are many jars and breaks in the household 
machinery from this cause alone. 

In many households where there is a 
regular waitress, there is a rule sometimes 
that nothing shall be handed by the mem- 
bers of the family. 

In offering to serve any one at the table 
use one of these forms, ''May I help 



you?" ''May I offer (or send) you?" 
" Let me give you," etc. The form, "will 
you have, " is out of place save for a waitress, 
who is usually trained to wait on the table 
in silence. — Home Life. 
# * * 

Why Play with the Children 

TWO things absolutely essential to the 
welfare of a home are that the mother 
keeps her health, and keeps in touch and 
sympathy with her children. A moment' s 
thought upon reverse conditions is enough 
to prove this. 

To maintain health, there must be periods 
of rest and relaxation; and to keep in touch 
with children there must be a mingling with 
them, a sharing of their interests, thoughts 
and feelings. Let the busiest mother do 
both at one time by laying aside her work 
and joining in their plays, at least once a 
day. The deep breathing of out-door air, 
the restful change and diversion of mind 
will help to keep her well, while the foolish 
frolicking will tend to keep her young. 

Besides, by so doing, she can tactfully 
direct the games, teach fair play, and elimi- 
nate undesirable playmates. Let her teach 
the games she loved as a child. The play- 
ing them over again will bring her own 
childhood back vividly, and put her in keen 
sympathy with the growing minds and sen- 
sitive feelings about her. 

If she has not the strength ior livelier 
plays, she can join in those requiring less 
exertion, the guessing contests and imagin- 
ative plays that all children enjoy. Then 
there is the story-telling time, when mother 
and little ones are curled up on a couch or 
in a big chair, telling "really truly" ones, 
or making up fairy tales. 

A child without brothers and sisters 
needs to be taught how to play, but given 
a start, buttons, spools, marbles and such 
trifles, combined with imagination, will mean 
more to him than any costly mechanical 
toy. Let the mother start the play, leav- 
ing the little one to work it out. 

Grown people forget that a child's plays 
form his whole world, that he lives in them 
and for them. A mother cannot afford to 



46 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



bar herself out. Dignity and hauteur awe, 
but never win a child's heart, and they are 
not to be compared in value to the love she 
begets by becoming a part of his play. As 
long as he lives he will remember what 
mother did when she was "It"; what a 
funny ''Middle-sized bear" she was; or 
how she acted "01' Brer Rabbit." 

Health and unity of spirit are fostered 
by a bit of play with the children; hence, 
no time is better spent. 

L. M. C. 



A New Cure 

THOSE who are obliged to turn to 
fads, "cures," and the like for 
health's sake are recommended to try living 
intimately and simply with children in the 
country. It would prove excellent treat- 
ment for certain forms of selfish, nervous 
prostration. 

Children are usually overjoyed, if "grown- 
ups ' ' will play with them, and their joy may 
be ours, if we prove good playfellows. Not 
every candidate can pass muster, in the 
judgment of a child, however. We all know 
the embarrassments ofunreturned overtures, 
and the solemn indifference to our most 
carefully planned advances. 

If you see aright, it is very flattering to 
be invited for a walk by your young nephew, 
when he might have chosen his younger 
brother who understands things in general 
much more quickly than you can. You 
would be more than likely to ask, on setting 
out, why he bothers himself to carry the 
wheel from his barrow slung over his 
shoulder; while his brother would know 
perfectly well that it is figuring as a camera. 
What could be more appropriate for a walk 
than a camera? Yet you have struck a 
false note in the beginning by requiring 
an explanation of so simple a matter. Still, 
you are not hopelessly disgraced, and the 
joy of the Avalk is to be yours, notwith- 
standing. 

To hunt for four-leaf clovers where 
there are none apparently, with an earnest 
youngster, aged four, who is misty yet as to 
numbers, is revivifying, and tends to self- 



forgetfulness during the anxious counting of 
the leaves. Incidentally, the child learns 
some things about the number four, and 
does his learning out-of-doors. 

Surely, a most health-giving shock will 
be waiting for the nervous one on first be- 
holding a wriggling green snake in the soft 
hand of the student, and perhaps another, 
when he triumphantly brings a handful of 
rather damaged potato bugs for inspection. 
But it does not hurt the child, and is a good 
tonic for nerves. 

Almost all children are interested in 
flowers, and their faith in our knowledge of 
botany is enough to make any one glad to 
brush up a bit for the pleasure of standing 
high in their estimation as a botanist. 

We should teach children to love all 
things out-of-doors, because it is their right 
as well as our pleasure and duty. Children 
who have been taught to use eyes and ears 
in the country during the summer, will often 
amuse themselves intelligently in restricted 
city quarters, a fact that is not unimpor- 
tant in later months. 

# # * 

Kaiser for " Simple Life " 

THE Kaiser's exhortation to the offi- 
cers of the German army to avoid 
luxurious living has been, according to the 
semi-official Military Journal, received 
with gratitude by every true friend of the 
army. 

The reason for the Kaiser's act has Deen 
explained. At a luncheon lately with the 
officers of a certain regiment the Kaiser 
was regaled with all sorts of delicacies, 
washed down by expensive wines, includ- 
ing French champagne. He regarded this 
as extravagance, and has now notified the 
military authorities that, even when he is 
present at the meal, the menu is not to 
contain more than soup, fish, vegetables, 
roast, and butter and cheese; inexpensive 
red wine or white wine is all that is neces- 
sary, with a glass of German champagne 
with the joint. Liqueurs he considers su- 
perfluous, and the handing round of other 
beverages afterward must not be encour- 
aged. 



(^ 



3-4u--t-X-XL-£L^CL- 



b 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, ^i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor ^<?.r/<?« Cooking- School Magazine, 37iBoylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query i 254.— Mrs. C. H., Scranton, Pa. " Tell 
us something of the economical buying of meats 
and the selection of cuts for a family of five } " 

Economical Cuts of Beef 

The first two of the ' ' chuck ribs ' ' (fore- 
quarter) make an economical roast; the 
^'eye" will be tender, in good beef, and 
should be served first, when the meat is 
hot. The outer portion of this cut is not 
very tender, but it may be simmered until 
tender and then used in hash, stew, meat 
pie and similar dishes. The boneless flank 
may be boiled or braised; a thick piece from 
the round may be braised. Steaks from the 
round are good, cooked in a casserole, and 
as Hamburg steaks or roasts. A piece from 
the middle of the hind shin makes a good 
stew. 

Cuts of Lamb or Mutton 

A side of lamb or mutton is cut into 
"breast and shoulder, (called fore quarter), 
Tack, (ribs) and leg. The weight of these 
cuts varies; if taken from a spring lamb the 
weight will be very much less than if the 
joints are cut from a yearling or older 
creature. The fore quarter is the cheapest 
piece in the side; when cut into two pieces 
the scrag, or breast end, sells for two or three 
cents a pound less than the rib end. For 
a family of five the fore quarter is none too 
much to buy at a time. It may be cut as 
indicated above (scrag and rib ends) and 
the two pieces be cooked differently. The 



scrag or neck end is used for stewing; it 
may also be steamed or boiled and served 
with caper sauce. The rib end may be 
steamed until tender, then brushed with 
bacon fat or drippings and browned in the 
oven. A souffle, hash, timbales or croquettes 
may be made from the left overs. Of the 
rack, the flank should be removed for broth 
or a stew; the rest may be roasted as it is, 
or boned first. It may also be cut into 
chops and broiled. The leg may be steamed, 
boiled or roasted. As there is little waste 
to the leg, it is an economical piece to buy. 
More variety is secured when the fore 
quarter is bought for boiling and the leg is 
roasted. Cold roast leg of lamb, sliced 
thin, with mint sauce or baked bananas and 
hot vegetables, makes a very satisfactory 
dinner. The remnants may be used in the 
same dishes as the remnants of the fore 
quarter. 



Query 1255 — Old Subscriber. " Explicit direc- 
tions for roasting Boned Loin of Lamb illustrated 
in February magazine. Directions for making 
puffy, lightly-browned Meringues that are not 
crumbly." 

Roasting Boned Loin of Lamb 

The flesh of lamb being immature, it is, 
by preference, thoroughly cooked, thus the 
oven should not be too hot when the roast 
is put into it. Brown the fat on the out- 
side in an oven suitable for setting bread 
to bake, then reduce the heat and let cook 
about one hour in all. 



47 



48 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Meringues 

Beat the whites of three large fresh eggs 
until dry; then gradually beat into them 
half a cup of fine granulated sugar and a 
teaspoonful of vaniila extract, beating until 
the mixture is very glossy. Then cut and 
fold into the mixture one-third a cup of 
sugar. Have ready hard wood boards an 
inch thick and of suitable length for the 
oven. Cover these with strips of paper and 
tack at each end, to hold the paper in place. 
Upon the paper place the meringue, giving 
it the shapes desired, round and egg shapes 
are the most common. Sift or dredge a 
little granulated sugar over the shapes and 
set to bake in a very moderate oven. The 
meringues should simply dry out for half 
an hour, then the heat should be increased 
to color the meringues. 



Query 1256.— G. P. J., Westport Point, Mass. 
*• Recipe for Canning Young Beets. We have had 
them very small, red and sweet as sugar. Is much 
sugar used in canning them } " 

Canning Young Beets 
The sugar is not used to help preserve 
beets, a little may have been added to make 
up for that lost in the cooking. Scrub the 
young beets without bruising the skin, first 
cutting off the leaves to save, at least, an 
inch of stem; cook until tender enough for 
the table; drain and cover with cold water; 
push off the skin from the beets, one at a 
time, and put them into jars. Set the jars 
on a rack in a steam kettle or boiler, and 
add a teaspoonful of salt and two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar to each jar; pour in luke- 
warm water to fill the jars, also water to 
come up half-way to the top of the jars. 
Put the covers in the water beside the jars, 
cover the kettle and let cook an hour; ad- 
just the rubbers and covers and cook fifteen 
minutes. 



Query 1257. — Mrs. M, Chicago. "Recipe for 
Chinese Chop Suey." 

Chop Suey 

Cut tender, fresh pork (lean), and 
chicken, one or both, into very thin pieces 



an inch and a half in length, and half an 
inch wide. Saute these in fat tried out of 
fresh pork. Have ready half as much (in 
bulk), or more, of celery, cut, transversely, 
in inch lengths, and an onion, cut in small 
pieces. To the browned meat add the 
celery and onion, cover the whole with boil- 
ing water, chicken, or veal broth, and let 
simmer until nearly tender. Then add 
peeled mushrooms, few or many, according 
to taste or convenience, sauted in the fat 
from which the meat was taken. For about 
a quart of material stir a level tablespoonful 
of cornstarch with cold water to make a 
Hquid paste, then stir it into the hot mix- 
ture. Continue stirring until the mixture 
boils, then add one or two tablespoonfuls of 
West India molasses, a teaspoonful or more 
of salt, and a tablespoonful or more of China 
soy. Enough soy should be added to make 
the dish of dark color. The molasses should 
give a slightly sweet taste. There should 
not be too great an abundance of sauce. 
China soy (a dark-colored Chinese sauce), 
can be purchased in half-pint or pint bottles 
at about ^1.50 and ^2.25 per botde, re- 
spectively. 



Query 1258. — Mrs. S., Chicago. " Recipe for 
Angel Cake Mixture Containing Chocolate." 

Angel Cake with Chocolate 

Beat the whites of five eggs until foamy; 
add a scant half a teaspoonful of cream-of- 
tartar, and beat until dry, then gradually 
beat in one cup of fine granulated sugar, 
and one-fourth a cup of cocoa sifted to- 
gether several times; add one teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract, and fold in half a cup of 
flour. Bake in a tube pan about half an 
hour. This is good covered with a boiled 
frosting, to which chopped fruit and nuts 
have been added. The icings given for 
Lady Baltimore cake are good. One-third 
of the recipe will be ample. A new maple 
frosting to be given in the Aug.-Sept. issue 
is particularly good for this cake. 



Query 1259. — Mrs. H. A. C, Washington, 

•'Recipe for 'Home-made Carameled 

referred to by Mary D. Chambers, in her 



D. C. "Recipe for 
Sugar ' 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



49 



fourth paper, as the only candy suitable for chil- 
dren over three and under seven years of age." 

Home-made Carameled Sugar 

Take any quantity of sugar in a sauce- 
pan of appropriate size, put, it over a hot 
fire and stir constantly until the sugar melts 
to a smooth, amber-colored liquid. Turn 
the liquid on to an oiled slab or platter to 
cool. When cooled it may be broken into 
irregularly sl^aped pieces. Nothing — not 
even water — is added to the sugar. As 
the dry sugar is stirred it looks like flake 
tapioca, then melts and becomes colored. 
Do not let it become too dark in color. 



Query 1260. — Mrs. M. Bonham, Texas. "Re- 
cipes for Lyonnaise and O'Brien Potatoes." 

Lyonnaise Potatoes 

Cut cold, boiled potatoes into thin slices 
(about one-fourth an inch thick, less, rather 
than more). Melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a frying pan, and add three table- 
spoonfuls of onion, sliced as thin as possi- 
ble; stir and cook the onion until softened 
and yellowed, then turn into the pan a pint 
of potato slices; sprinkle in half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and a dash of pepper, and let 
cook six or seven minutes, tossing gently 
meanwhile. Press the potatoes into an 
omelet shape, and let cook to a golden 
color. Turn on to a hot dish, sprinkle with 
fine-chopped parsley and serve at once. 

Potatoes O'Brien 

Cut four, good-sized, pared potatoes into 
pieces one-third an inch square, let stand 
in ice water an hour or longer then dry 
thoroughly. Fry in hot, deep fat for ten 
minutes and drain thoroughly. Melt one 
tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan; add 
the potatoes, three, sweet, red peppers cut 
in tiny squares, and half a teaspoonful of 
salt; let cook ten minutes, turning them 
meanwhile. Serve in a hot dish. 



Query 1261.— J. D. J., Cincinnati, O. "A 
variety of recipes for Stev^-ed Prunes." 

Prune Souffle 
Beat the whites of five eggs until foamy; 



add one-fourth a teaspoonful of cream-of- 
tartar and beat until dry, then gradually 
beat in half a cup of sugar. Fold in one- 
fourth a pound of prunes, cooked tender 
and cut in very small pieces. Turn the 
mixture into a buttered pudding dish, 
smooth the top, dredge over a little sugar, 
set the dish on many folds of paper, sur- 
round with boiling water, and cook about 
twenty-five minutes. The water should not 
boil during the cooking. Serve with cream 
and sugar or a boiled custard. 

Prune Pie 
Use about three-fourths a pound of 
stewed prunes for a pie; remove the stones 
and cut prunes in halves; add half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a few bits of butter, the 
juice of half a lemon, and half a cup of 
sugar. Dredge with flour before setting 
the upper crust in place. 

Prune Parfait 
Beat the yolks of three eggs; add one- 
third a cup of sugar and a few grains of 
salt, and cook in one cup of scalded milk, 
until the milk is thickened slightly; add one 
level tablespoonful of gelatine, softened in 
one-fourth a cup of the prune hquid, three- 
fourths a cup of stewed prunes, in pieces, the 
juice of half a lemon, or one tablespoonful 
of lemon juice and three tablespoonfuls of 
sherry; set the mixture into a dish of ice 
and water (after it has been chilled some- 
what by standing in cold water), and stir 
until it begins to thicken throughout, then 
fold in one cup of double cream beaten 
firm. When the mixture will hold its shape, 
turn it into a mould, lined with paper. Serve 
unmoulded, with or without whipped cream. 

Other Uses for Stewed Prunes 

Stewed prunes may be used as a sauce 
for cornstarch or gelatine blanc-mange. Cut 
in pieces, they may be added, either with 
or without sliced nuts (walnuts, almonds 
or pecans), to a boiled frosting for cake. 
For prune-and-pecan nut salad, see March, 
1907, issue of this magazine. 



Query 1262. — Mrs. J. R. C, Gastonville, Pa. 
" Recipes for Orange Sponge Cake and Ange 



50 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Cake. Give the ingredients for the latter in 
weight. " 

Orange Sponge Cake 

Take six eggs, the weight of the eggs in 
sugar, half their weight in flour, the grated 
rind of an orange, and two tablespoonfuls 
of orange juice. Beat the yolks until light 
in color and thick. Add the sugar, grad- 
ually, then the grated rind and juice of the 
orange. Have ready the whites of the eggs, 
beaten dry. Cut and fold half of them 
into the cake mixture, then cut and fold 
in half of the flour, the other half of the 
whites, and the rest of the flour. The 
mixture may be baked in a loaf or in layers. 

Angel Cake 

The ingredients for a loaf of angel cake 
by weight are half a pound of egg-whites 
(lo eggs), half a pound of fine, granulated 
sugar, one-fourth a pound of flour, half a 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract. By measure 
(tin cup indicating fourths or thirds, and 
holding half a pint) one cup, each, of egg- 
whites, sugar and flour. 



number of eggs used. A general rule can 



not be given. 



Query 1263. — Mrs. A. E. K., Montgomery, 
Ala. "What makes Cake Fine-grained? Is one 
level teaspoonful of baking powder to each cup of 
flour the correct proportions .'' " 

Fine Grained Cake 
Not all recipes will produce fine-grained 
cake. Much depends upon the manner of 
combining the materials and the tempera- 
ture of the oven. The kind of leavening 
ingredient also affects the texture of the 
cake. Make three cakes having the pro- 
portions of the main ingredients the same 
and the temperature correct, lighten one 
with baking powder, another with crearmof 
tartar and soda, and the third with lemon 
juice and soda, all in correct proportion, 
and the texture of all three will be differ- 
ent. The last wiU be of finest grain. But- 
ter should always be creamed before the 
sugar is beaten into it. After the beaten 
whites are added, the mixture should be 
beaten thoroughly. The quantity of bak- 
ing powder depends somewhat upon the 



Query 1264.— F. B. S., Oswego, N. Y. " Re- 
cipe for Rice Salad served in New York and 
Boston — it contains cold, boiled rice, garlic, cu- 
cumber, etc." 

Rice Salad 

AVe are unable to give the recipe desired. 
Adolphe Meyer, in '' The Post Graduate 
Cookery Book,'' gives a salad containing 
rice, called Egyptian Salad. We give this 
and another, Pekin Salad. 

Egyptian Salad 

Take some cold, boiled corn on the cob; 
split the grain lengthwise and, with the 
back of a table knife, press out the interior; 
mix this with an equal quantity of cold, 
boiled rice; add a little chopped, sweet, red 
pepper and mix with mayonnaise dressing. 
Serve on lettuce leaves, decorating with 
chopped eggs and boneless anchovies. 

Pekin Salad 

Line a mould with hot, boiled rice and 
let cool; put into the center a chicken 
fining, chill on ice, unmould and serve on 
a bed of cress seasoned with French dress- 
ing. For the filling soften a tablespoonful 
of gelatine in a little cold water and dissolve 
with half a cup of hot, chicken broth; stir 
in one cup of cooked chicken, cut in tiny 
cubes or chopped in coarse pieces; when 
cool add one cup of cream, a few grains of 
cayenne, salt as needed, and a little wine. 



Query 1265.— Mrs. E. E. K. H., New Ro- 
chelle, N. Y. " Are fresh-boiled potatoes used for 
Potatoes au Gratin ? In the recipe for Grape-fruit 
Supreme, Aug.-Sept., '05, how is the fruit made 
to hold in form of ball ? Recipe for Rich Bouillon 
to serve fifteen persons." 

Potatoes au Gratin 

Potatoes au gratin may be made of either 
cold or fresh-boiled potatoes. Slice the 
potatoes. Have a scant pint of cream sauce 
for a generous pint of potatoes. Put a layer 
of potatoes in a buttered dish, season, add 
a layer of sauce, and sprinkle with grated 
cheese (this may be omitted); repeat the 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



layers and finish with cracker crumbs stirred 
into melted butter. 

Grape-fruit Supreme 

The Grape-fi-uit Supreme served at the 
Bellevue-Stratfordjis held in a stemless glass 
cup embedded in ice, disposed in a very 
large stemmed bowl (brandy snifter). The 
description referred to is more pleasing than 
accurate, and should have received more 
careful editing. 

Rich Bouillon for Fifteen 

Cut seven pounds of lean and very fresh 
beef (that from the under part of the round 
is suitable), into small bits, or run it through 
a meat chopper. Melt the marrow from 
two pounds of marrow bone (hl.id shin) in 
a frying pari; in this cook half of the meat, 
stirring it meanwhile, to a brown color. In 
tlie meantime, pour eight pints of water 
over the other half of the meat. When 
the first meat is browned, add it to the 
meat in the water; rinse out the frying pan 
with a cup of water, add this and let the 
wh^le gradually heat to the boiling point; 
then let simmer about five hours; then add 
a carrot cut in pieces, two small onions 
sliced, two or three sprigs of parsley, three 
or four stalks of celery (a tablespoonful of 
celery seed tied in a bit of cheese cloth may 
be substituted), a tablespoonful of salt, 
five or six cloves, a sweet red pepper pod, 
or three or four long chilli peppers, and let 
cook two hours longer. Drain off the broth 
and let stand in a cool place over night; 
remove the fat, reheat and serve. The 
soup may be clarified with white of egg, 
but it is rendered less rich by the process. 
Each pound of meat should yield a gener- 
ous pint of bouillon; add no water during 
the cooking, but add water when the broth 
is finished to give the correct measure — 
cooked below the boihng point (simmering) 
in a covered dish, there will be little loss 
by evaporation. 



Paper for Cake Pans 

We buy from our grocer white paper, 
such as he uses for wrapping butter, and 
find it very good for lining cake pans. The 
price is twenty-five cents per pound. 

Unfermented Bottled Grape Juice 

{^Flctcher Berry') 
Have perfectly ripe grapes; heat them 
slowly in an earthen crock or double boiler 
and set in the oven or on the back of the 
range. When the skins are tender, strain 
through a cheese-cloth bag without squeez- 
ing. Reheat to the boihng point and add 



Query 1266.— Mrs. E. L. P., Milwaukee, 
"Wis. " What kind of paper can be used to line 
cake pans ? Recipe for Unfermented Bottled 
Grape Juice." 



Fly to Pieces 

The Effect of Coffee on Highly Organized 
People 

" I have been a coffee user for years, 
and about two years ago got into a very seri- 
ous condition of dyspepsia and indigestion. 
It seemed to me I would fly to pieces. I 
was so nervous that at the least noise I 
was distressed, and many times could not 
straighten myself up because of the pain. 

" My physician told me I must not eat 
any heavy or strong food and ordered a 
diet, giving me some medicine. I followed 
directions carefully, but kept on using coffee 
and did not get any better. Last winter, 
my husband, who was away on business, 
had Postum Food Coffee served to him in 
the family where he boarded. 

"■ He liked it so well that when he came 
home he brought some with him. We began 
using it, and I found it most excellent. 
While 1 drank it my stomach never both- 
ered me in the least, and I got over my 
nervous troubles. When the Postum was 
all gone we returned to coffee, then my 
stomach began to hurt me as before, and 
the nervous conditions came on again. 

"That showed me exactly what was the 
cause of the whole trouble, so I quit drink- 
ing coffee altogether and kept on using 
Postum. The old troubles left again, and 
I have never had any trouble since." 
' ' There' s a Reason. ' ' Read ' ' The Road 
to Wellville, ' ' in pkgs. 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



half as much sugar as juice. Seal, when 
the sugar is dissolved and the whole is hot, 
in sterilized bottles or jars. 

Unfermented Grape Juice 

( Without Sugar) 

Mash perfectly ripe grapes, heat them to 
the boiling point and press out the juice. 
Fill bottles or jars with juice, set them in 
a rack fitted in a boiler, steam cooker or 
canner, pour in cold water to the necks of 
the bottles, cover and let boil ten minutes 
after boiling begins. Use the hot juice in 
some of the bottles to fill the others, thus 
supplying what has been lost by evapora- 
tion; close with sterile corks and sealing 
wax or can covers as is needed. 



Query 1267.— Mrs. S. G. W. " What should 
the sugar thermometer register, in making White 
Mountain Cream or Boiled Frosting." 

Boiling Sugar for Icing 

Sugar and water for icing is boiled to the 
soft balljdegree; this is from 238'' to 242" 
on the sugar thermometer. On a damp 
day the sugar may be boiled two or three 
degrees higher, to advantage. When boiled 
to this degree, a thread several inches in 
length will depend from a fork that has 
been dipped into the syrup. 



Query 1268.— Mrs. P. C. G., Denver, Col. 
" Recipe for Africans, and Crust for EngHsh Pork 
Pie." 

Africans 

Take two tablespoonfuls of sugar from 
one-third a cup; beat the yolks of five eggs 
very light; gradually beat in the rest of the 
•sugar; beat the whites ot three eggs dry, 
then beat the two tablespoonfuls of sugar 
into them; cut the yolks and sugar into the 
whites and sugar and then fold in the flour 
and a few drops of vanilla. Put the mix- 
ture on baking sheets, covered with paper, 
to make rounds one inch and a half in diam- 
eter and bake in an oven of a suitable tem- 
perature for bread. When the cakes are 
cold, remove the crumb from the center of 



each, fill the open spaces with English 
cream (such as is used for filling cream 
cakes and eclairs), press two together and 
cover with chocolate frosting. Sometimes 
the filling is of whipped cream. 

Crust for English Pork Pie 

(Mollock.) 

Sift half a pound of flour and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and stir in enough cold 
water to make a dough that may be kneaded. 
It should not be too firm. Knead the dough 
five or six minutes. Then cover and let 
stand five or six minutes. In the meantime 
take six ounces of butter and cut it into even 
slices about the size and thickness of a dime. 



Dr. Talks of Food 

Pres. of Board of Health 

''What shall I eat ? " is the daily inquiry 
the physician is met with. I do not hesitate 
to say that in my judgment, a large per- 
centage of disease is caused by poorly se- 
lected and improperly prepared food. My 
personal experience with the fully-cooked 
f jod, known as Grape-Nuts, enables me to 
speak freely of its merits. 

"From overwork, I suffered several 
years with malnutrition, palpitation of the 
heart, and loss of sleep. Last summer I 
was led to experiment personally with the 
new food, which I used in conjunction with 
good, rich cow's milk. In a short time 
after I commenced its use, the disagreeable 
symptoms disappeared, my heart's action 
became steady and normal, the functions of 
the stomach were properly carried out, and 
I again slept as soundly and as well as in 
my youth. 

" I look upon Grape-Nuts as a perfect 
food, and no one can gainsay but that it 
has a most prominent place in a radonal, 
scientific system of feeding. Any one who 
uses this food will soon be convinced of the 
soundness of the principle upon which it is 
manufactured, and may thereby know the 
facts as to its true worth." Read ''The 
Road to W^ellville," in pkgs. "There's a 
reason. ' ' 



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xiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Sift a layer of flour on the board, making 
it as thick as the bits of butter; on the 
flour lay the bits of butter, a Httle distance 
apart, and sift over more flour to cover 
them completely; roll the pieces of butter, 
one by one, between the layers of flour to 
the thickness of heavy paper; lay each aside 
as it is rolled. Roll the paste into a sheet 
one-fourth an inch thick, lay butter on one 
half of it, spread the other half over the 
butter, press the edges together and repeat 
till the butter is used. 



Query 1269. — F. S., Sparta, Wisconsin. " Why 
can soda and baking powder be used together in 
baking ? " 

Soda and Baking Powder Used 
Together 

Sour milk with just enough soda to 
sweeten it may be used in mixtures, calHng 
for sweet milk, very nearly as if it were 
sweet milk. Baking powder is needed to 
lighten the mixture, but as a little gas will 
be evolved from the sour milk and soda^ 
the usual quantity of baking powder should 
be reduced a little. See recipe for graham 
gems with buttermilk and eggs, on page X 
of the Oct., 1906, number. 

e^^ ^^ t^^ 

9 

A Summer Dish in Queensland 
There are fruit salads and fruit salads. 
To the traveler who has visited the tropical 
and semi-tropical parts of Australia the fruit 
salad of the London restaurants and private 
houses is a mockery and a snare, these 
dishes being almost always simply a compote 
of fruit, possessing nothing of the special 
attributes of the real thing. A fruit salad 
is a universal lunch or breakfast dish in far- 
distant Queensland, where grow many kinds 
of fruits possessing the necessary variety of 
flavors which an ideal fruit salad demands. 
A fruit salad is as different from the Eng- 
lish * * compote ' ' as chalk from cheese. It 
is so delicious that it is almost worth while 
paying a visit to Queensland to partake of 
it. Roughly, a salad of fruits is constructed 



by placing layers of fruit one on the top of 
the other, sliced up, on a glass dish or a 
china plate — the greater the variety the 
greater the success. The softer fruit come 
at the top, so that the juice percolates 
through the various layers. The passion- 
fruit with its agreeable sub-acid flavor is a 
necessity to a good fruit salad. It is only 
with the tropical fruits such as Queensland 
produces, that the best salad can be made, 
but a fair imitation of the real thing can be 
managed with bananas, oranges (pith re- 
moved), apples, etc. Cut into thin slices, 
place in layers with sugar over each, stand 
for six hours, and serve with cream. — The 
Epicure. 



Among the novelties at a ''smart'* 
dinner party given recently in Paris, were 
these amusing (?) menus: By the side of 
each guest — covers were laid for twenty- 
four — was a tall boot in pale kid, no two 
alike in color, containing for the ladies a 
fragrant bouquet de corsage and a dainty 
mouchoir from out of which peeped the 
menu, and for the men a posy for their 
buttonhole and a birch rod. The sight of 
the latter caused much merriment among 
the ladies, for, said they. '' Man will at last 
get his desserts ! ' ' But New York, at any 
rate, does better than this. One prefers the 
eccentricities of Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish and 
some other hostesses, who — praise be it 
said — have never put their feet, or even 
their boots, on the dinner table. 





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An odorless, colorless liquid sold in quart 

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A Medley of De;sserts 

Our book ''Frozen Dainties," is a veritable medley of desserts. 
It explains in detail every step in making Ice Cream, Ices, 
Sherbets, Punches and many other unusual iced delights with 
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XV 



Book Reviews 



Pastry Book. By Paul Richards. Leather. 

Price ^2.00. Chicago: The Hotel 

Monthly. 

This is, perhaps, the most complete book 
of its kind. It is beautifully put up. It is 
'^ printed on buff linen, ledger paper and 
sewed like books were sewed a hundred 
years ago, to last. There are twelve pages 
of index printed on paper of a different 
color. Bound in leather with marbled 
edges and rounded corners, it has a very 
attractive and durable appearance, and is 
perfectly adapted to large usage. In writ- 
ing the book, the author, a famous pastry 
cook, made it his object" to improve the 
standard of pastry work, and to raise bread 
and pastry cooking to the plane of high-class 
meat cooking, and it will suffice to say that 
he has performed his task admirably well. 
Breads, cakes, pastries, ices and sweet- 
meats, all are included, and in a form es- 
pecially adapted to hotel and catering uses. 



Foods and Culinary Utensils of the 
Ancients. By Charles Martyn. Cloth, 
III Price 50 cents. New York: The 
Caterer Pub. Co. 

This little book of seventy-two pages con- 
tains a brief sketch of the foods and table- 
manners of the ancients, culled from stan- 
dard historical works. Comparatively little, 
it would seem, is known of this particular 
feature of domestic life among the ancients, 
and that which is known is not very definite 
or satisfactory. In all ages, people have 
used, from necessity, about the same item^s 



for food, that is, the natural products of the 
earth, and their advancement in dietetic 
habits, illustrate the well-known law of the 
survival of the fittest. In the absence of 
larger works, this manual may prove con- 
venient and useful to many an inquirer. 



Talks to First-year Nurses. By Alfred 

T. Hawes, M. D. Cloth. Price ^1.25. 

Boston: Whitcomb & Barrows. 

The trained nurse has come to stay. She 
is to be found in every town and hamlet. 
She stands next to the physician, and often- 
times her service is more indispensable than 
his. The duties of the physician and of the 
nurse do not conflict. It is the duty of the 
physician to make diagnosis of the case, and 
prescribe treatment. It is the duty of the 
nurse to carry out the physician's orders, 
to report accurately the conditions of the 
case, and make the patient as comfortable 
as possible. 

This indicates intelligence, and no in- 
considerable knowledge, on the part of the 
nurse. Hence, it is the object of this volume 
to give to nurses, at the beginning of their 
course of training, the foundation princi- 
ples of the different studies of their course. 
And to this end the book has been admir- 
ably adapted. Less information than that 
which is contained in these pages would 
scarcely suffice; upon these twelve chapters, 
as a sure foundation, the prospective nurse 
can safely build her future training. Unless 
we are mistaken, nothing better for begin- 
ners has yet been done. 



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XV i 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Lea & F^rrins' Sauce 




mi tat ions 



AL WORCESTERSHIRE 

I Never Dine IVithout It, 

My chef, who is always successful 
with his seasonings, tells me that 
Lea & Perrins' Sauce is the secret 
of his success. I find it gives an 
appetizing relish to an otherwise 
insipid dish. I like it in Soups, 
Stews and Hashes, It certainly does 
imprbve Roast Meats, Chops and 
Steaks. Just a little on Cheese is a delight- 
ful finishing touch. No Rarebit is complete 
without it. It- is a good digestive. 

SEE LEA & PERRINS' SIGNATURE ON LABEL 

John Duncan's Sc-s. Agents, New York 



The 

Sixtieth 

Anniversary 




It is sixty years since the 
introduction of the brand of 
silver-plate which has become 
famous under the trade mark 

M ROGERS BROS: 

It is the quality of endurance proven by time 
which has given to spoons, forks, knives, etc., bear- 
ing this mark the title of "Sillier Tlate that Wears. 
It is this test of true value together with the remark- 
able beauty of design that makes " 1847 ROGERS BROS." 
ware, to-day, the choice of the majority and the works 
where it is produced the largest in the world. 

Let us send you our Catalogue "F-8 •** 

MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO., Meriden, Conn. 

(International Silver Co., Successor) 




Hiiy julvertised goods — Do not accept substitution.- 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKIISfG SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




to Exclude Air 



Fruits, preserves, jellies and '^^"^^'^^'^^ 
catsups, are kept in prime condi- ^^ 

tion any length of time, if air is excluded 
from the jar or bottle by a thin coating of 

Pure ReUned 

PARAFFINE 

Easy to apply — sure to preserve. When 
fruit or catsup is cool, pour melted paraffine 
over contents of bottle or jar to a depth of 
one-fourth inch. This makes an air-tight 
seal and keeps the fruit. 

Pure Refined Paraffine is useful for many 
purposes and should always be in the house. 
Sold in handy-sized cakes. Ask for it. 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 
(Incorporated) 



1847 



The 



1907 



EDDY 

is the 

REFRIGERATOR 

of QUALITY 

It is Strictly *' Sanitary." Has stood 
every test for 60 years. Our catalog 
will tell you the story. It is short but 
true. It is for your interest to read 
it. We mail copy free 

D. EDDY & SONS CO. 

MANUFACTURERS 

BOSTON, MASS, 

The Best Dealers always recommend 

The EDDY 



Library of Home Economies 

The twelve volumes, which comprise the 
complete home-study courses of the Amer- 
ican School of Home Economies, and which 
are published under the name of ^'The 
Library of Home Economies," will be 
found a valuable acquisition to the working 
library of teachers of domestic science as 
well as of those home-makers who are in- 
terested in Right Living. The subject 
matter of the first volumes of the library 
may be famihar to those who have taken 
recent courses in domestic science, but 
even to these it is of importance, in that the 
matter is put into a "getatable " shape for 
reference. Some of the later volumes, in 
particular, the one on "Personal Hygiene.' ' 
edited by Maurice Le Bosquet, director of 
the school, contains many ideas that are 
not familiar to the average teacher of do- 
mestic science. The volume on ' ' Personal 
Hygiene ' ' is an exponent of the latest ideas 
on "the preservation and improvement of 
health." The subject is taken up under 
three heads, viz: "The human machine," 
"' The running of the machine " and " Care 
of the machine. ' ' The whole set comprises 
a valuable Reference Library. 



Summer Schools of Cookery 

Advertisements of two summer schools 
of cookery may be found in our columns. 
One is held at Boston, the other at the 
White Mountains. Surely, if one wishes 
to combine work and recreation, no better 
places for such purposes can be offered 
than a seaport city and a country town, 
amid the pine woods of the mountains. 
What better preparation can be made for 
next year's duties than work along one's 
special line, and a comparison of ideas with 
those in the same work, together with long 
days on mountain or water, under a deep 
blue sky. 

Lake Placid Conference on Home 
Economics 

The ninth annual meeting will be held at 
Lake Placid Club, July 1-6, 1907. The 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




PERCOLATOR 



I do it the easiest, quickest and most healthful 
way possible. Besides, my coffee never varies 
and always satisfies. It is clear as amber — never 
requires a settler. 

Why ? How ? You ask. 

I do it easily because I am made scientifi( 
and am pronounced mechanically perfect. 

I do it quickly because my little valve 
pumps the water upwards which passes 
down again through the ground coffee taking 
with it the healthful caffeine and essential 
oils which make good coffee so delicious. 

I do not boil, therefore there is no bitter 
taste so noticeable in boiled coffee. Just use 
cold water, set on stove, and in from six to 
seven minutes your coffee is ready to serve and piping hot. 

Sold by Leading Hardware Dealers and House=furnishing Stores 

Made of aluminum and enamel ware. Different styles 
and sizes, $2.00 up. A postal request from you will 
bring our free booklet. 

LANDERS. FR.AR.Y & CLARK 

303 Commercial Street, New BritSLin, Conn. 



BREAD MAKER 

Makes bread-day a day of pleas- 
ure, — makes better, 
^lighter, more nutri- 
tious bread, in less 
time, with but three 
minutes' work. Once 
tried always used. 




FOOD CHOPPER 

Has long since taken 
the place of the chop- 
ping bowl. Thou- 
sands of thrifty 
housewives know the 

reason why. Do 

you ? 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xlx 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 






^I7®JIS 



^ 



Wherever you live — whenever you please — 
you can have the tender, vrhite meat of the 
salt water crab rightly picked and cooked, nicely 
seasoned and spiced, mightily good and fresh, all 
ready to heat and put into the glossy shells. 

McMENAMIN'S 

Crab IVIeat 

can be prepared in many ways. Write for free Crab 
Book containing recipes. This is one of them : 

Crab Toast.— Put into a chafing dish a teaspoonful 
of butter : when melted add a can of McMenainin's Deviled 
Crab meat, a teaspoontul of chopped celery, half a tea- 
spoonful of flour, a gill of cream , salt and cayenne to taste. 
Stir and simmer until the moisture is about evaporated; 
then place on thin slices of toast, sprinkle a very little 
sherry over each portion and serve. 

At leading grocers. 
MclVIEIM/lMini & COM pa NY, 
30 Linden Ave., Hampton, Va, 





mmw 



ALWAYS LOOK FOR 

THE MINUTEMAN ON 

THE PACKAGE. 



MINUTE GELATINE (Flavored) af- 




fords a ' ' short cut " to one of the finest of des- 
serts with the least possible bother. You simply 
get the flavor you want — Lemon, Orange, Rasp- 
berry, Strawberry, Wild Cherry, Pistachio, 
Chocolate — dissolve the contents of the loc. 
package in a pint of boiling water and set to 
cool. 



You can do it in less time than it takes to tell it, and 
the result is a light, delicious, wholesome and enjoya- 
ble dessert that everybody likes. Minute Gelatine 
(Flavored) is our regular Plain Gelatine with flavor- 
ings added — seven different flavors. 

For IOC. and your grocer's address, we will send a 
full-size package by mail and the Minute Cook Book. 

WHITMAN GROCERY CO., Dept. S, Orange, Mass. 



discussions will include the reports of the 
teaching section held at Pratt Institute, De- 
cember 31, 1906, and of special committees. 
There will be symposiums on: " Essentials 
of co-operation; " " How to secure efficient 
work in the household; " "Psychic factors 
in household economics." The complete 
program will be sent to all members about 
June I, and to any addresses furnished to 
the Secretary, Lake Placid Club, Essex 
Co., New York. 



Fryeburg Academy 

A disastrous fire at Fryeburg, Maine, 
1 1st season, destroyed the attractive summer 
hotel there. Because of this loss, the Acad- 
emy houses will be opened this summer 
under the management of two former stu- 
dents of Fryeburg Academy, Miss Anna 
Barrows and Miss Annie Parks Webster. 
Miss Barrows cannot be there all the season 
because of her summer school of domestic 
science at Chautauqua, N. Y. , but Miss 
Webster has had a wide practical experience 
in hotels and school boarding houses, and is 
now in charge of the cuhnary department 
at Abbott Academy, Andover, Mass. The 
houses are pleasant, and palatable whole- 
some food will be provided at moderate 
rates. 



The Far-off Call 

If out beyond the city's farthest edge 

There were no roads that led through sleepy 
towns, 

No winds to blow through any thorny hedge, 
No pathways over hazel-tufted downs, 

I might not, when the day begins, be sad. 

Because I toil among the money-mad. 

If out beyond the distant hill there lay 
No valley graced by any winding stream, 

And if no slim, white steeples far away 

Might mark the spots where drowsy hamlets 
dream, 

I could, perhaps, at midday be content 

Where striving millions at their tasks are bent. 

If far away from noise and strife and care 

There were no buds to swell on waiting trees, 

No mating birds to spill upon the air 
The hquid sweetness of their melodies, 

I might, at sunset be serene and proud 

Because a few had seen me in the crowd. 

— T/ie Ckica'^o Record-Herald _ 



Buy advertised goods— Do not accept substitutions. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



UR little daughter 

Clara Louise, is just 

1 3 months old, weighs 

28 lbs., and is a very 

plump, healthy baby. 

She has been fed ex- 
clusively on Mellin's Food 
since her birth. 

I recommend Mellin's 
Food to all. 

H. J. Roth, 
Springfield, O. 





Mellin's 



Food 



THERE isn*t a particle of truth in the old idea that 
a mother should nurse her baby in spite of every 
obstacle. If your nursing doesn't agree and baby is 
fretting, never satisfied and not thriving, or if you are not 
well and strong — you ought in simple fairness to your- 
self and baby wean him from the breast and give him 
Mellin's Food. Let us send you our beautiful book, 
"THE CARE AND FEEDING OF INFANTS," 
that will tell you all about it. It is FREE for the asking. 



Mellin's Food Company, 



Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A New Dainty- 

i^Rosette Wafers 

Crisp and delicious— for breakfast, luncheon 
Or afternoon tea. 

Made with the thinnest of baiter and a novel 
Uttle iron. Any ^voman can tnake forty 
of them In 20 minutes at a cost of 10 cts. 

All the best dealers sell these irons at 50c. a set. 

If your dealer does not sell them, send us 70c. 
and we will mail you a set postpaid. 

FREE — Mention your dealer's name when writ- 
ing, and we will give you a book of 30 new recipes 
telling how to serve tliese wafers, and our interest- 
ing catalogue of culinary novelties. 

ALFRED ANDRESEN «St COMPANY 
Dept. B. S. Minneapolis, Minn. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 
PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POUSH. 

Joseph E)ixon CniciUe Co.Tipany, 
Jersey Gty, N, T 



fSawyer's 




60 YEARS 

THE PEOPLE'S 

CHOICE 



CRYSTAI* 

Blue 

For the 

Laundry 

DOUBLE 
STRENGTH 

Sold in 

Sprinkling 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue 
gives a beautiful 
tintan( 
color 

and gOodb uiai aic^ 

worn and fadedo | ^ 
It goes twice aa far 4 \ 




as other Blues 



I ^ Be Sure You Get C >■«■»« fam'c^ J 
iFrom Your Dealer OOWjr Cr 55 



Deer Island and its Companions 

{Conchided from page 21) 
sights to a stranger. And then the way the 
children can row. Two tiny tots of six and 
five, manoeuvering a big boat through all a 
long afternoon with oars almost too heavy 
for their slender arms to lift, is not exactly a 
common sight in most parts of the world; 
yet that is what Johnny's mamma found 
had happened, when she missed her small 
boy and set out to find him. And it was 
not considered a surprising feat there. 

The traveler is surprised, also, to find 
how well-educated and broad-minded and 
' ' well-to-do ' ' most of the people are. They 
have several fine schools on their islands, 
and, besides,they usually send their children 
to some college or normal school or seminary 
in the United States to finish their training. 
Of course they are EngHsh, these people, 
because they live on English soil, but they 
are Americans, too, who prefer this home 
"just across the border" more for its beau- 
tiful surroundings and business possibilities 
than for any political reasons. 

You like them; you cannot help it. And 
when you have once visited the West Isles, 
you become one of the enthusiastic ones 
who ' ' come and come again. ' ' 



Nothing Easy 
I received a letter from a lad asking me 
to find him an easy berth. To this I re- 
plied: ''You cannot be an editor; do not 
try the law; do not think of the ministry; 
let alone all ships, shops and merchandise; 
abhor pohtics; don't practice medicine; be 
not a farmer nor a soldier nor a sailor; 
don't study; don't think. None of these 
are easy, oh, my son ! You have come into 
a hard world. I know of only one easy 
place in it, but that is in the grave. ' ' — 
Henry Ward Beecher. 



A man named Wood met a friend whose 
name was Stone. 

''Good morning, Mr. Stone," he said; 
"and how are Mrs. Stone and all the little 
pebbles?" 

"Oh, quite well, Mr. Wood," was the 
reply. " How are Mrs. Wood and all the 
little splinters ? " - — Zion 'j: Herald. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Prove Thi^ 

I i ^ 



that 




The stove 

that- is best for 

^ washing - day, 

i. V/yiE/^ ironing-day and 
V^CrC#r^ baking -day 
is best for every other day of 
the week. The New Perfec- 
tion Oil Stove is such a stove 
by every test. It does its 
work in a new and different 
way from other oil stoves. 
It produces a clean blue 
flame, which, without over- 
heating the kitchen, is in- 
stantly ready for boiling the 
water, heating the irons, or 
baking the bread. The 



NEW PERFECTION 

Wick Blue Flame 00 Cook-Stove 



will make your kitchen work lighter, will cut 
in two, and will give you a cooler kitchen. 



sizes. 



with 



your fuel 
Made in 
one, two, and three burners. Fully 
warranted. If not at your dealer's, write to our 
nearest agency for descriptive circular. 

The y^ yz^ w ^ -m mr^r^ is the best all- 
round house 
lamp made . 
Gives a soft, mellow light of unusual brilliancy. An orna- 
ment to an}^ room . Made of brass throughout , beauti fully- 
nickeled. Perfectl}^ constructed ; absolutely safe. Every 
lamp warranted. If not at your dealer's, write to our 
nearest agency. 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 

(Incorporated) 



bills 
three 



l^oLAMP 




J 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions, 
xxiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



FRENCH'S PURE SPICES 




THE STANDARD OF AMERICAN EXCELLENCE 

3old in Blue Packages like illustration, 
never in Bulk 

These spices are carefully selected at the place of growth 
in order to secure the choicest qualities; are cleaned thor- 
oughly hefore shipping to us, and again cleaned upon arrival 
at our Mills. They are scientifically reduced to a powder; 
not touched by hand, but packed by machinery, insuring 
perfect cleanliness and delivery into your hands in perfect 
condition. 

The success of vour cooking depends upon the quality of 
your Spices. Co"inpare FREN CH'S with any you have used 
and see the difference, we think you will be surprised and 
pleased with the superior quality "of I'RENCH'S. 

If j'our grocer does not keep them, send us 14c. with hia 
name and we will send you a 1-4 lb. package, any variety, to 
any address, postpaid. Purity guaranteed under Serial 
number 4l(i8 filed at Washington in full compliance with 
the Pure Food Law. 

THE R. T. FRENCH CO , Rochester, N. Y. 

Spice Importers. Mustard Manufacturers. 




Poison in the Body 
The body is a factory of poisons. If 
these poisons, which are constantly being 
produced in large quantities in the body, 
are imperfectly removed, or are produced 
in too great quantity as the result of over- 
feeding, the fluids which surround the brain 
cells and all the living tissues are contami- 
nated with the poisonous substances which 
asphyxiate and paralyze the cells, and so 
interfere with their activity. This fact ex- 
plains, in part at least, the stupidity which 
is a common after-dinner experience with 
many persons. 

When food is retained in the stomach be- 
yond the normal tirne, either because of its 
indigestibility, the taking of too large a 
quantity of it, or a crippled state of the 
stomach, these changes are certain to take 
place. This fact explains a very large share 
of the myriad symptoms which afflict the 
chronic dyspeptic. The giddiness, the ting- 
ling sensations, the confusion of thought, 
and even partial insensibility, which are not 
infrequently observed a few hours after 
meals in chronic dyspeptics, are due to this 
cause. Here is the explanation of the iras- 
cibility, the despondency, the pessimism, 
the indecision and various other forms ol 
mental perversity, and even moral deprav- 
ity, which are not infrequently associated 
with certain forms of gastro-intestinal dis- 
turbances. — Exchange. 

The Scotch are the greatest dyspeptics 
on earth, largely owing to their use of half- 
cooked oatmeal and soft bread. Next to 
the Scotch are the Americans, and no single 
thing has contributed more to American 
dyspepsia than half-cooked oatmeal mush 
fjr breakfast. In rural France, where dys- 
pepsia is practically unknown, hard bread 
and vegetables, with a moderate amount of 
meat, comprise the chief items of the bill 
of fare. — The Sanitary Home. 



These trade-mark cri 

CRESC 

(Formerl' 

SPECIAL 
K. C. WHO, 

Unlike all 
For 
f ARWni & REDVES 




es on every package 

For 
DYSPEPSIA 

FLOUR) 

: FLOUR 
T FLOUR 

grocers, 
rite 
ffOWN. N. Y., U. S. A, 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxlv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




tyMiEK 




r 




I^D r 17 Just send your own and your grocer's name 
^ *XL-^LJ and address on a postal card and we will 
send you (Free) a generous sample of Shaker Salt in a 
miniature carton (which is also an individual salt shaker) 
a Double- Value Coupon to apply on a genuine Cut-Glass 
Salt Shaker, and a valuable Bock telling all about salt. 

Ordinary salt has a sharp, bitter taste that is due to natural impurities. 
That's bad enough — but the worst danger lies in the odors and im- 
purities it absorbs while in the sack before it reaches the table. 
Government tests prove the purity of our salt. Shaker 
Salt is packed in a patent air-tight, germ and moisture- 
proof box which preserves the salt air-tight and immacu- 
late in its purity until the 
last of the salt is 
used. 




It has a perfect flavor because it is free from all impurities 

always dry^ always flows freely, even in damp weather. 

The Shaker box is made of paraffin-coated pure wood fibre and has a handy spout, making 

it easy to fill a salt shaker without wasting a single grain. 

The little carton of Shaker Salt, which we gladly send you free, will show 

you how fine, dainty, pure and white is this brand of table salt. 

And it will prove that Shaker Salt flows freely by merely tipping up the 

shaker. Your grocer will supply you with Shaker Salt at 10 cents the box. 

The cost is about 5 cents more per year than " bag salt." 

In spite of this fact, Shaker Salt is the most economical, because 

it is pure salt — no grit, no odors, no germs. Just say the word 

and we will send you the Free sample, the Double-Value Coupon 

and Book, at once. 

The Diamond Crystal Salt Co., Station 2, St. Clair, Mich. 

Makers of the only Salt iir the World above 99 per cent pure 
Best by Government Test. Save Coupons for a Cut-Glass Salt Shaker 





r 



KiSTON 
COOKLN'GSCHWl 




PRACTICAL BINDERS for 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

We have had made a number of bhiders in green, red, and ecru buckram, 
appropriately lettered. 

They are neat, attractive, and practical. Each holds conveniently from one 
to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine. 

As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a complete 
index, by preserving the magazines in a binder one will have at the end of 
the year a complete book on cooking and household science handy for ref- 
erence at all times. 

TO ANY present subscriber who sends us one neir subscription at $i we 
will send, postpaid, as premium (as long as they last), one of these 
binders. Price 50c., postpaid. 

Address 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods 



— Do not accept substitutions. 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Sa.oo 



bread, maker 



No 
Knack 

in 
Bread 
Making 

Any one can make 
good bread. Your 
first loaf will be as 
good as the greatest 
success of the experienced 
if you use the 

[attning- 
io^^man 

ECLIPSE'* 

BREAD MAKER 

It-kneads better and more thoroughly than* 
is possible by hand, and takes but three 
minutes. It is the only machine that 
actually kneads by compression. The re- 
sult is always the same— yoa are sure to 
get fine, light , delicious bread— at less cost, 
and bread whose cleanliness is assured. 

Sold by leading dealers. Write for booklet 
"EE-19" giving recipesf or breads, rolls and cakes. 
MANNING. BOWMAN & CO., Meriden. Conn. 




E. R. Austin, Arch' t. So, Bend, Ind. 

If Yotx Are Building 

For Yotxrself 
For Sale 
For Rent 

your house will be cheaper, more ^ satisfac- 
tory and easier to sell or rent, if stained with 
Cabot's 
SHingle 
Stains 
TKe Best Exterior Coloring 



Evidence — samples of stained wood, cata- 
logue and color-chart — sent free. 

Samuel Cabot, Sole Mfr., Boston, Mass. 

Agents at all Central Points. 



A Descendant of Caesar 

Little Mrs: Brown had just finished re- 
counting the many things that she meant to 
accompHsh on the morrow. She usually 
got through with all she undertook, and her 
family, accustomed to such announcements, 
let them pass without comment. But to- 
night Dorothy, the daughter of the house, 
who had recently taken on the dignity of a 
high school sophomore, looked up from her 
Latin translation with a gleeful chuckle. 

"I wish I could find mother's family 
tree," she said. ''I'm sure that mother 
is related to Caesar. I want you to listen 
to this," and with frequent turnings to her 
vocabulary she read slowly: — 

" ' By Caesar all things had to be done at 
one time. The banner had to be raised; 
the signal had to be given with the trumpet; 
the soldiers had to be recalled from the 
fortification; those who had advanced far- 
ther than usual, for the sake of gaining 
material for the agger\i2,^ to be summoned; 
the line of battle had to be drawn up; the 
soldiers had to be encouraged; and the 
signal had to be given. The shortness of 
the time and the approach of the enemy 
hindered the great part of these things. ' 

"There ! " she exclaimed triumphantly. 
' ' Don' t that sound just like one of mother' s 
big days ? ' ' 

''Mercy me!" ejaculated Mrs. Brown, 
beaming over her compliment. " Did he 
get through with it all right ? " 

" I don't know," was the unsatisfactory 
answer. ' 'I haven't finished the translation. '^ 

The next evening, when Dorothy took 
up her Caesar, Mrs. Brown asked eagerly, 
"Have you found out yet whether he got 
through with all those things that had to be 
done at once ? ' ' 

"I'm sure he did, ' ' said Dorothy. ' ' I 
read the headings of several chapters in ad- 
vance of our lesson, and he seems to have 
been successful." 

Mrs. Brown heaved a sigh of relief, then 
said: "I'm mighty glad he did. Poor man, 
I know just how he must have felt. I've 
thought of him a lot of times today. I 
thought I had a pretty full day; but mercy 
me ! When I' d think of Caesar, it made me 
feel ashamed." — Youth's Companion. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Jell~0 

ICE CREAM 



IS A 



WONDERFUL 

LABOR SAVER 





One package stirred iLto a quart of milk and frozen, without heating, cook- 
ing, or the addition of anything else, produces two quarts of smooth, velvety 

ice cream in lo minutes. 

Delicately flavored, pure and wholesome. Sure to please. 

Received Highest Award at Portland Exposition. 

ILLUSTRATED RECIPE BOOK FREE, 

Showing how to make all kinds of frozen dainties, puddings, 
cream pies, layer cakes, etc., easily and cheaply. 

Flavors: Chocolate, Vanilla, Strawberry, Lemon 
and Unflavored. 
Approved by Pure Food Commissioners. 
2 packages 25c. 
If your grocer does not keep it send us his name and 25c. 
for two packages by mail. 

THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., Le Roy. N. Y. 

Visit our Exliibit at Jamestown Exposition. 



Ifyoumust 



on account of 
your health 

Give up 

Drtnkino 

Coffe e^ 

WHY NOT TRY 




THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 



OLD GRIST Mill 
WHEAT COFFEE? 

It has all the virtues possible 
in a health drinK made with 
wheat— besides being 

Pleasing toihe taste 

-and you oonttlre of it- 
Try it and be healthy 

OLD GRIST MILL CHARLESTOWN MASS 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
d&eese. , Send for book of ^j prize receipts. 

Wa. VITDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, HASS. 






Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxvli 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




MAGiaWCOyER 

Magic Cover for Pastry Board and Kolling Pin ; chem- 
ically treated and hygienic ; recommended^by leading 
teachers of cooking. By mail50c.S[^\f 1^=? r^-, Sl^ 

F. A. WALKER & CO. 

83-85 Cornhiil, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass. 



t T TTTI YT TTTTII IIIir rrn mTmi l l l ll l T TTTTTTTTI TTTTTTTmrrX X JL : 



Quilted 
Mattress Pads 

Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. 

\ Quilted Msittress Pads 

will make your^bed comfortable as 
well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

The cost is small and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

Ask your Dry Goods dealer. 

EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO., 



"TTI-J 



15 Lal^ht St., New York, N. Y. 



THE MOST COMFORTABLE 
HAMMOCK EVER MADE— NO 

DOUBI.E UP. 

Will hold six or eight persons sitting or two lying down 

Very orna- 
mental inside 
or outside. 
Finest con- 
struction. Al- 
ways hangs 
level. Book- 
let free. 

QVEEN HAMMOCK CO,, 

67 North St., Kalamazoo, Mich. 




The Chatterer 

As Dr. H. W. Wiley declares that one 
should eat each day one per cent, of one's 
own weight, will it be necessary to add 
scales to our customary table furniture? 
How otherwise can anyone regulate the 
amount of food he is to put into his face 
than by daily weighing of himself? Oh, 
this nourishment business is becoming alto- 
gether too complicated. 



By the way, this is a cheerful name 
which has been given to the festive bivalve 
in Paris, ''the typhoid oyster ! " Ameri- 
cans in Paris willingly eschew French oysters, 
they are such wretched, coppery tasting, 
tough little things, but for patrons of the 
fashionable restaurants their consumption 
is a serious matter. Cases of poisoning 
due to eating oysters are too frequent to be 
ignored, and Dr. Netter now makes the 
discovery that the oyster beds at Cette are 
enriched by the sewage of an entire town 
of 35,000 inhabitants on the Mediterra- 
nean ! The oysters grow fat only to be 
consumed by intestinal troubles, which they 
later impart to a greedy Parisian public. 
Heigho? — Boston Herald. 



Colburn's mental arithmetic, long since 
unhappily out of fashion, would furnish 
today an excellent corrective to the many 
absurd statements made for partisan pur- 
poses concerning the wealth of the country. 
There are many rich men in America. 
Some of them are wicked, some of them are 
dangerous and must be restrained and pun- 
ished, but nothing is gained to the cause of 
humanity by exaggerating. If we would 
subtract from our population that i per cent, 
of the 800,000 people who are said to own 
99 per cent, of the entire wealth of the 
nation, the truth is that the 99 per cent, of 
the population left, after these rich men 
and their wealth were withdrawn, would be 
richer in their aggregate and richer per 
capita than it was forty years ago. The 
amount, say one or two hundred milKons 
of dollars, assigned in this estimate to the 
bulk of the people, would not cover the 
crops of the output of industry in several 
forms in one year. The savings banks of 



Buy advertised goods— Do not accept substitutions. 
xxviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




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The moulds we offer are made by a patent 
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ADDRESS ALL 



The Timbale 
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ORDERS TO 





For eggs Par- 



THE BOSTON C00KING=SCH00L MAGAZINE, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 
xxix 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




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( Mention this magazine. ) 



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the country hold more of the people's 
wealth than some of our statisticans assign 
to the 99 per cent, of the population. — 
Christian Register. 

"What's the matter across the way?" 
asked the tailor of a bystander, as the am- 
bulance backed up to the door of his rival. 

"A customer fell in a fit, and they are 
taking him to the hospital, " was the reply. 

*' That' s strange, " said the tailor. "I 
never knew a customer to get a fit in that 
establishment before ! ' ' 



Coinage of words goes on apace ''suffra- 
gist," meaning, not a person who exercises 
the sufirage, but one who wishes to do so, 
might possibly have some justification on 
the score of expedience, but for "suffra- 
gette " — dear to the halfpenny newspapers 
— there is nothing to be said. As well 
might the Society of Women Artists re-name 
themselves the Society of Artettes, or a 
woman who opens a flower shop call her- 
self a "florette." 



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Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 



THE BOSTON 

CQDKINGSCHGDI 

MAGAZINE 

OFCUI^INAR>YSCIBNCBAND 
DOMBSTIC -.SCOKOMICS 



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Aug'.->$ept 
1907 

No 2 



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Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutions. 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XU. 



August-September 



X^. 2. 




Trellises 



Br MARY H. XORTHEXD 



THERE are few things that more 
readily adapt themselves to the 
garden than the trellis, and in 
Colonial gardens, -sv-ith its covering of flow- 
ering ^ines, which rendered it a thing of 
"beaut}-, it played an important part At 
the present time, however, it is more un- 
common, and its decorative value is un- 
appreciated save by a comparatively small 
number of gardeners: but to such as un- 
derstand its possibilities, the uses to which 
they put it are a revelation to the uninitiated. 



The more common use to which the trellis 
was jjut in Colonial days was to ser\-e as a 
screen for the summer house, or to protect 
the garden entrance from curious gazers. 
Usually of generous dimensions, from ten 
to tw-ent}' feet long and five high, its size 
made it necessary- to use \-ines of rapid and 
prolific growth, in order to cover it. Fa- 
vorite among these, was the broad-leaved 
Dutchman's pipe, which made of the rustic 
structure a leafv* barrier through which eyes 
might not penetrate, and the lavender 



54 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



flowered wistaria, with its dainty blossoms 
and dark green foliage. In the southern 
and middle states, the white honeysuckle, 
which is a beautiful perennial vine, filled 
for more than a month of the year with 
fragrant flowers, takes the place of the 
former vines as covering for arbors and 
trellises. 

With the revival of all old-fashioned 
things, the trellis, too, should come into 
prominence, not in large, pretentious gar- 
dens alone, but also in the smafler plots, 
where it will be found no less effective. 
The present fad for rambler roses is aiding 
in bringing the trellis into prominence, and, 
as a covering for the trelHs, it is really most 
effective, especially during its season of 
bloom, when the lavish display of flowers 
will make it, for the time being, a centre of 
attraction. 

A splendid efl'ect was obtained in a Penn- 
sylvania garden, by using the trellis with its 
covering of red ramblers as a back-ground 
for some delicate white lilies, these they 
protected from the wind, and threw into re- 
lief against their vividly contrasting colors, 
making themselves at once useful and or- 



namental, as well as showing to advantage 
the beauty of the more delicate plants. In 
another part of the same garden, at the 
lower end, are a line of trellises covered with 
honeysuckle, which is green throughout the 
year. This vine grows very profusely, and 
retains its verdure through the winter, 
which adds to its decorative value, so that 
from early spring, when the crocuses, prim- 
roses and tulips begin to blossom, until the 
late fall, when the last chrysanthemums are 
showing blossom, the trellis shows a green 
wall, impassable and unyielding, on which 
the delicate blossoms may lean for protec- 
tion from rough winds. 

The number of vines that may be called 
into service to cover the trellis are many, 
and they range from the simple morning- 
glory, which, with little care other than the 
sowing of the seed, will cover the frame- 
work with leaves, and whose cost even for 
the largest trellis is ridiculously small, to 
the foreign vines that many florists offer, 
brought from China and Japan, where 
flowers and vines are universal, and whose 
cost is large. The selection of the vines 
that c -e to cover the trellis, and the general 







Trellis for Vine and Window Boxes at INIagnolia, ]\lass. 



TRELLISES 



55 



position and scheme of the garden will 
govern in a great measure its place and use; 



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Rambler Roses 

for the trellis is eminently useful. 
The flowers the garden will con- 
tain are the best guide. 

The posts or supports of the 
trellis should be carefully set, lest 
a heavy wind send the structure 
tumbling over the flowers grow- 
ing at its foot, destroying both 
itself and them. Across these, 
wire or thin bars of wood are 
nailed horizontally, while the top 
may be arched or rounded in 
any shape the artistic eye of the 
owner may desire. All along this 
frame-work the flowers must be 
planted so that they will easily 
climb upon the bars or wires pro- 
vided for them; a few minutes' 
work, with the pruning knife, or 
spent in tying back straggling 
tendrils and vines, will keep the 
plants in order, and preserve the 
even outline and shape. Fre- 
quently a single plant will serve to 
cover the frame, and, unless 
the trelHs be very large, two or 



three ordinary vines will be sufficient. 

One of the simplest, yet most effective 
of trellises, was made by an enthusiastic 
gardener for her climbing nasturtiums. 
Long, slender maple saplings were secured, 
and split into halves, to form the bars for 
supporting the flowers, and small, cedar 
poles were used as supports for the hori- 
zontal pieces. Over this rustic framework, 
the vari-colored nasturtiums climbed and 
blossomed in profusion, hiding every ves- 
tige of the wood. The cross pieces, instead 
of being nailed on, were tied with pieces of 
wire, and in the fall, when the frost had 
left them bare, they were unfastened and 
carried to the wood-shed to remain until 
spring, when they would again be called 
into service. 

One lady has used her trellis in a unique 
manner, making it serve at once the double 
purpose of screen and background. At 
the end of the garden there were two trees, 
which permitted a hammock to be swung 
between them; to make the place secluded, 
a trelhs was placed in front of the ham- 




A Trellised \Yalk 



56 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



mock, reaching nearly half across the gar- 
den. Against it a number of tall dahlias 
raised their heads, and the flower beds were 
so arranged as to make the trelUs the end of 
the garden. 

Of the many shapes in which the trellis 
is found, there is none prettier than the 
trellis that arches in the middle over an 
opening, and extends on either side like a 
wall. If the back garden must serve for 
both flower and vegetable garden, as was 
the case in the Colonial style, or if a walk 
runs round the house, there is no prettier 
screen and archway for it. But, to enumer- 
ate the thousand and one uses to which, in 
its various shapes, the trelhs may be put, 
were impossible, as each owner seems to 
have new and unique use for his special 
trelhs, which no other person might think 
of, or which, bent to his particular service, 
would fail to adapt itself to other circum- 
stances. In some form or other, there is a 
place for a trellis in nearly every garden, 
did the owner but see it. Least costly of 
all the devives that made the Colonial gar- 
dens distinctive, and gave them a charm 
peculiarly their own, the trellis is within the 
means of the most economical gardener, 
while its simple construction and hardy cov- 
ering make it possible to the busiest of folk. 



Then, too, the trelHs gives an opportuni- 
ty to grow some of the beautiful vines, than 
which there are no prettier garden flowers. 
Many of the most exquisite plants are 
climbers, which must have a support in 
order to do at all well, and for such, a trellis 
is a real necessity. Colichos, gourds, moon 
flowers, and many other more rare varieties 
are classed among the vines that are worth 
cultivation for their beauty, both of flower 
and foliage, and that absolutely require the 
the support of the trellis in order to de- 
velop. It is worth while to take the little 
trouble necessary, and build a frame for 
these pretty vines, for they are easily propa- 
gated and make a splendid display. 

It is significant of the place the trelhs 
holds among landscape gardeners, that it 
plays a prominent part in the formal garden, 
which is today highly popular on the largest 
estates. Sometimes it is placed at the end 
of the path that generally intersects such 
gardens, and again, when the estate is very 
large, it may separate the formal from the 
Italian garden, or even from the herba- 
ceous garden, which is often nearby. But 
whatever its use or plact in the scheme of 
the landscape artist, it s generally found 
playing an important part in the features 
that go to make the garden a perfect whole. 




A Trellis at Danvers, Mass. 



EPHEMERA 



57 









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An Entrance Trellis at Manchester, Mass, 



At a summer home in Danvers, Mass. , 
is a garden laid out by the Hon. Joseph 
Chamberlain. In the formal garden, sep- 
arating it from the Italian garden, is a long 
trellis covered with a profusion of ramblers, 
which, during the season, make a veritable 
flower wall between the two. The trellis 
is broken in the center by a gateway that 
connects the gardens. Nor is this garden 
alone so treated, for all along the North 
Shore, there are striking examples of the 
use the trellis is put to in separating gar- 
dens, screening cosy nooks and delicate 



blossoms, and, in fact, serving a variety of 
purposes in those great garden spaces that 
surround the mansions of the North Shore. 
Do not despair of the unsightly corner 
or bit of wall that seems to withstand all 
your efforts to remedy it, but try with all 
the cunning of which you have command, 
to devise a trellis of such shape and size 
that it will seem really to belong there, and 
cover the deficiency with it. With care, 
you will soon find that, instead of an un- 
sightly spot, you have there the most beau- 
tiful place in your garden. 



Ephemera 



i?r GRACE STOXE FIELD 



Summer hath gone, brief as a bird-song By brook and byre, her funeral pyre 
Ended. Autumn hath lit. 

Swiftly she flew, into the blue Fades as it flashes; sinks into ashes 
Ascended. Now on the hill. 

Maples and larches, fiery torches. One pale anemone, sad as her memory 
Flicker and flit; Blossome'th still ! 



The Ingenuity of Janice 



By RICHARD ELLISON 



ON the morning of the following im- 
portant events the mater and I were, 
at 8 a. m. , seated at the breakfast 
table according to our custom. 

It was she who re-opened the subject, 
by saying — " I suppose you have not yet 
ventured to speak to your fair lady." 

^'She is not fair; I have told you that 
many times. She has the loveliest of dark 
eyes, the most luxuriant of dark hair, 
the — " 

*' I think. Jack," the mater interrupted, 
''you have told me all that before. I only 
wonder that a young man of your enterprise 
should have found no way to introduce 
yourself to — well — call her 'the perfect 
one.' " 

" She is," I asserted. 

"When a man is young and fairly good- 
looking, and a lawyer with a growing prac- 
tice, and some reputation for astuteness, 
and fails in such a trivial matter as the gain- 
ing of an introduction to a young lady he 
admires, it makes one doubt — " 

"What?" I snapped. 

"Whether or not he deserves his repu- 
tation. ' ' 

* ' That is your womanish way of looking 
at it, ' ' I said. "Would you have had me 
speak to her and frighten her the first time 
I saw her? Or even as soon as I discov- 
ered that we walked to business at the same 
time and by the same road ! ' ' 

"Four months of such experience must 
be dreadfully annoying, — that is, to a re- 
sourceful man." The conclusion of this 
remark partook partly of the nature of an 
apologetic explanation. I was not irritated 
much. 

"In your time — " I began rather 
loftily. 

"In my time?" the mater broke in. 
She spoke quite calmly, but with a lift of 
her eyebrows. ' ' In my time, young people 
knew their own minds and went right after 
things. The days of dallying with matters 



of real importance had not yet dawned." 

I laughed. How could one be irritated? 
I knew the good mother. 

"Ah! mother," I said softly, and she 
was very quick to recognize the change in 
my tone. ' ' You would not have had me 
rob myself of all the sweet uncertainty of 
my first serious — serious — " I paused 
doubtfully, repeated the last word and 
paused again. I simply could not avail my- 
self of the correct expression. When the 
phrase suggested itself it was too late; the 
mater had risen from her chair and walked 
to one of the windows, where she stood 
looking down the street. 

' ' She is coming. You must be quick. ' ' 
These words had become quite usual in our 
morning routine, though not infrequently I 
anticipated the announcement by robbing 
it of its usefulness. I left my last cup of 
coffee untasted, found my hat, gloves and 
light overcoat, opened the front door, and 
walked slowly down the stone steps, mean- 
while drawing on my gloves. I saw, from 
under my downcast eyelids, the figure of 
" my " fair lady pass with deliberation, along 
the opposite pavement. I thought, when I 
turned towards the window to wave, that 
the mater had been making gestures which 
I did not catch, but I did not have time to 
go back. 

I knew, by experience, precisely the pace 
at which I must walk to pass my lady at the 
corner. I had, moreover, fifteen separate 
and distinct schemes, all of which were well 
calculated to open up an impromptu con- 
versation. It had always happened, how- 
ever, that at the last moment some one 
element in my calculations did not ma- 
terialize. 

It is two hundred and fifty paces to the 
corner. One of my fifteen plans was to slip 
on an imaginary piece of orange peel, — 
people are always slipping on pieces of 
orange peel, — and fall heavily to the pave- 
ment about three yards behind her. She 



THE INGENUITY OF JANICE 



59 



would turn around and ask in sympathetic 
tones if I were hurt. I had chosen this 
plan quite a number of times, but at the 
crucial moment grave doubts as- to its dig- 
nity had always deterred me. 

On this particular morning, I was so oc- 
cupied in admiring the thick coils of black 
hair, cunningly twisted this way and that 
around the shapeliest of heads, above and 
behind the prettiest of rose-pink ears, and 
under the most marvelously well-balanced 
of hats, that all the fifteen plans had com- 
pletely slipped out of my mind. Another 
moment, and I should have swung by 
the dainty unknown, when the simplest 
thing possible happened. A package, which 
I had not noticed before, slipped from be- 
neath her arm, and fell with a crash of 
shattered glass to the street, and there stood 
my love, disconsolate and embarrassed, be- 
fore me. Then my tardy resourcefulness 
displayed itself. I sprang forward with the 
sober eagerness of one well accustomed to 
dealing with affairs of gravity. 

''Hard luck ! " I said, in tones as heart- 
felt as though I had really meant what I 
said. '' Can I be of any service ? ' ' 

"No, thank you," she answered de- 
murely, ''unless you will push the thing off 
the pavement now that it is broken. ' ' 

Her voice was just what I had expected 
it to be; full and rich and vibrant, with a 
quality for which I have no name, because 
there is nothing for comparison. As she 
spoke she glanced up at me, and the love- 
liest of damask- rose blushes swept over her 
cheeks. Her eyes? — Well, her eyes 
sparkled mischievously, and for that I could 
not really account. Indeed, I was very 
busy. I was shoveling the wreckage into 
the gutter with the reverent air of an un- 
dertaker; the wreckage had belonged to 
her. 

"You are really very kind," she com- 
mented. 

* ' I am,' ' I rephed. ' ' All my friends tell 
me the same thing. I am one of the kind- 
est men on earth. You will admit it when 
you know me better, and you will have 
much reason to. ' ' 

*' I may never know you better. ' ' 



"Yes, you will. You know me better 
already. My name is Harvey, Jack Harvey. 
I am a lawyer, and quite single. I live 
with my mother. You will like my mother. 
She is already very fond of you. ' ' 

"We are getting along quite rapidly," 
she remarked. 

"It is entirely my fault," I hastened to 
say, and slackened my pace. " I am in the 
habit of walking quickly." 

She laughed, and I smiled by way of en- 
couragement. 

' ' You have not told me your name, ' ' I 
said casually, and she answered simply, 
" It is Ward — Janice Ward. ' ' 

"Janice Ward is the very prettiest name 
in the world," I said, with astonishing 
fervor. ' ' I seem to have known you quite 
a long time, Janice. You said I might call 
you Janice, did you not? — and I have 
always wanted to speak to you, only I never 
knew just how to begin." 

' ' I would not have given you credit for 
shyness, ' ' she laughed. 

'*That is because you do not know me 
very well yet. When you do you will dis- 
cover all my little faults. ' ' 

The sun came out then, and my eyes 
were somewhat dazzled. " The sun is be- 
coming powerful, ' * I said, and then, apropos 
of nothing at all but an inward rejoicing, 
" It is spring time again. " 

" How lovely the country must be ! " I 
heard her exclaim under her breath. 

"The country? — How clever you are, 
Janice! I had overlooked that. My busi- 
ness today is in the country, — a lovely 
place, where spring flowers and birds and 
running water are. We might spend such 
a happy day, and return to take tea with 
my mother. ' ' 

Janice laughed aloud in the most charm- 
ing way. * ' Really, Mr. Harvey — ' ' 

"Jack," I commanded. 

"Jack," she added, "you are quite a 
remarkable character. ' ' 

"You could send word that you had 
broken, — no, that is not to be thought of, 
— I was going to say broken your arm or 
something. Say you will be at your busi- 
ness tomorrow; — that is, unless you would 



6o 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



like to go into the country twice.' 

Janice appeared to be amused. ' ' There 
would scarcely be need for such a message; 
I only walk for my health." 

" Oh ! " I exclaimed, much concerned, but 
secretly experiencing a great rehef. *'A 
day in the country would be an excellent 
thing for your health. ' ' Janice meditated, 
and I went on. *^ Fresh air is much more 
beneficial when breathed in pleasant com- 
pany. ' ' 

''It is very improper, no doubt," she 
said at length, ' ' but I think I will go. I 
liave a mind to find out what manner of 
man you are. ' ' 

''You will find me the most delightful 
Tuan it has ever been your chance to meet; ' ' 
I declared emphatically. ** You will find 
that I suit you exactly; — indeed, no two 
people ever did get along together as well 
as will you and I. " 

** Modesty," she interrupted, "is evi- 
dently not one of your graces." 

"Yes, it is," I hastened to assure her, 

"but I have been modest for four months, 

since I first saw you, in fact, and — now 
____ } > 

"You exhibit an amazing aptitude for 
backsliding," she finished my sentence for 
me. 

" I am ashamed of my self-indulgence, ' ' 
I repented. 

" Most virtuous of men ! " 

"Most charming of women, — Janice 
Ward!" 

She blushed again. This time I held the 
advantage, and it was delightful to see the 
crimsoning of her cheeks and the droop of 
her dark eyelashes. 

The memory of that day will never fade. 
I see it now as I write. The steep bank in 
the narrow rift in the low hills, the dimpling 
water wandering lazily along over the shin- 
ing pebbles, the fresh verdure of young 
grass, the unfolding fronds of the ferns, the 
peeping tints of the fresh awakening flowers. 
Trees were above and about us, and from 
the branches the little feathered beings 
isang their love songs. It was springtime 
to them and springtime to me. 

We did not talk a great deal; there was 



an understanding in the air, making speech 
superfluous. Janice did, I think, teU me 
some things about herself and her family, 
but these I waved aside with gentle disdain. 
Janice, herself, was with me, and what did 
I care for her family? Time began to press, 
however, and I had arrangements to make. 

"And when do you think you could be 
ready ? " I asked anxiously. "In a 
month ? ' ' 

"Ready for what?" She looked up as 
if somewhat startled. 

"To be married, ' ' I said. 

She made a little gasping movement with 
her lips, so I went on slowly and consider- 
ately, that she might have time to recover 
her self-possession. "I intend to give you 
roses, — red roses and pearls; roses for your 
beautiful hair, and pearls for your beautiful 
neck, and whatever you like set in gold for 
your finger, — this one," I said, taking her 
left hand. "We will spend a month in the 
most beautiful spot we can find, and then 
we will return to make the happiest home 
on earth." 

"You are really dreadful!" she said 
slowly. 

I held out my arms, but she drew back, 
looking at me with deep reproach in her 
sweet eyes. "You must not talk to me 
like that ! I was very wrong to come here 
with you, so — so soon, but — I trusted 
you. ' ' 

"Of course you trusted me; and you 
could not do wrong, if you tried. Why is 
it too soon ? Consider all the time we have 
wasted these four months ! — four whole 
months since I first saw you, and a whole 
lifetime of years before that, when I did 
not know you at all. And then you must 
consider your health," I added, thought- 
fully. "You say you have to walk for your 
health. Instead, what you reafly need is 
some one to take care of you. You grew 
quite pale a moment ago. ' ' 

"My grandmother," she answered, 
' ' would probably have fainted under the 
circumstances. ' ' 

" No," I contradicted, for was I not on 
sure ground now ? ' ' You are wrong. Long 
ago, people like our mothers and grand- 



THE INGENUITY OF JANICE 



6i 



mothers, knew their own mmds and went 
right after things." 

''If there is anything in heredity," she 
responded, with the first smile she had given 
me for some time, ' ' I think your ancestors 
must have done that; I don't think mine 
did." 

''That is the beauty of it ! " I cried. 
"We can' t all be.alike. I would not have 
it so. If all women had been like you, I 
should have been in love long before I saw 
Janice Ward. ' ' 

*'I fear it is useless to argue with you. 
Don' t you think it is time you attended to 
the business you spoke of? ' ' 

** Business? This is it, and certainly it 
is useless to argue about love. It won' t let 
you display your natural ability. There is 
the proof that you are beginning to love me 
a little." 

She answered somewhat sharply, I 
thought, "The rule does not seem to apply 
to you. ' ' 

" Here again you are wrong. I am not 
arguing, I am only stating facts. You feel 
"better again, do you not ? ' ' 

*'I think I am recovering my presence 
of mind. ' ' 

' ' You will soon become accustomed to 
me," I rejoined cheerfully. "However, 
I won't worry you any more about the 
exact date; that can wait until you have 
seen the house. Perhaps you will wish to 
liave alterations made. Still," I added 
meditatively, "I think almost anything 
■could be done in a month; — don't you? " 

' ' You promised not to press the matter 
of the date. ' ' 

" So I did; but it is all settled, is it not? 
All but the date, and what does that matter ? 
It might as well be in two weeks as four; 
two weeks, more or less, is a small consid- 
eration. ' ' 

"Then it might as well be in six or 
eight," she retorted. 

"Well, — "I spoke with a quiet, judi- 
cial air, but in my heart I sang a mighty 
Jubilate, — ' ' it shall be as you wish, Janice, 
six weeks from today. ' ' 

Just what Janice would have answered, 
I am not in a position to say; but at the 



moment we had reached the village street, 
and were passing the only store of which 
the place could boast. A drop of rain fur- 
nished an excuse. 

" Hush ! " I said gravely, as she started 
to speak, " Come inside just a moment." 
Then to the storekeeper, "Do you sell 
umbrellas ? ' ' 

He considered the matter thoughtfully. 
' ' Small umbrellas, ' ' I added. 

"How many do you w^ant? " he asked. 

I spoke decidedly. "I want only 
one." 

' ' I have an umbrella, ' ' said the store- 
keeper, stroking his chin, "and it 's a small 
one, but it is not new; it has been used 
once. ' ' 

' ' That' s the very thing. I ' 11 give you 
three times its price. ' ' 

"What an extravagant man you are ! " 
Janice remarked as we left the store. We 
passed a blank wall soon, and raising the 
umbrella, I adjusted it to meet the public 
view, and, stooping, kissed Janice. "This 
umbrella, ' * said I, "is the cheapest thing 
I ever bought in my life. ' ' 

"Is — that — what you bought it for ? " 

"For your health," I wisely replied; 
"dampness is a very bad thing for a weak 
constitution. ' ' 

Now would not anyone suppose that my 
mother would have been surprised when, a 
little later in the day, I introduced Janice 
to her somewhat in this wise ? " " Mater, 
here is Janice Ward. We are to be married 
in six weeks." 

"But the mater stood staunch. " I 'm 
afraid you have found Jack somewhat force- 
ful, ' ' and her eyes twinkled as, she spoke, al- 
though I had exnected she would sooner 
burst into tears than smile. 

"He says all his mothers and grand- 
mothers were like that." 

This shaft, aimed at me, found its proper 
target. 

' ' And now, ' ' I said, "I'm going to 
leave you together, while I recover the 
wreckage which has made so much possi- 
ble." 

Janice shyly explained the situation. 
' ' Only, ' ' she ended, turning to me, ' ' you 



62 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



need not trouble, because I dropped it on 
purpose." 

And what do you think the wonderful 



mater said then ? 

''I am glad, dear Janice, that you too, 
at last, were willing to take my advice. ' ' 



How Little Jeanne Saw ''Old Home Day" 



By ALIX THORN 



EVERY summer they came to the 
Cross-roads, and in the late fall, 
when the swamp maples glowed like 
flaming torches, they traveled slowly back 
to Canada. The country folk called them 
*' Injuns," and were apt to add as an after- 
thought, ''half-breeds," maybe, for the 
young ones all have outlandish French 
names. This summer they had taken again 
the tumble-down farm house; set up in Iront 
a long, rough counter of pine boards, and 
filled it with gaily colored baskets of sweet 
grass, birch bark picture frames, and other 
mountain souvenirs. 

Past the house ran the rocky road that 
led to the Flume and the Profile, and 
every day the large mountain wagons rolled 
by on their way to the Notch, often stop- 
ping to let out their passengers to buy the 
pretty trifles from the dark-eyed women and 
men, whose slim, skilled fingers had twisted 
the fragrant grass, and rainbow-hued splints 
into such fanciful shapes. Jeanne, the little 
five-year-old daughter of ''big Jeanne," 
would watch the visitors as they lingered by 
the counter, trying to decide what to pur- 
chase — too shy to more than peep from 
behind her mother's red skirt — watch the 
wagons 'till they turned round the bend 
and tall trees hid them from sight. And 
when they again passed on their homeward 
way, she and the little three-year-old Fran- 
cois would run quickly inside to escape the 
friendly looks and the gay good-byes. 

One August morning, everybody but 
Jeanne seemed to have something to do. 
Francois, whose little guardian she ever was. 



had fallen asleep; her mother was filhng 
some pillows with fragrant balsam; her 
father and Uncle Pierre were carving curi- 
ous mountain-sticks — the summer day was 
well begun. Up the sunny road strolled 
the little maiden, hatless, her dark hair 
blowing in the warm wind. Yellow butter- 
flies fluttered ahead; rested for a moment 
on the tall milkweed, then tried lazy little 
flights still further on. 

Suddenly up from the valley below came 
a soft, sweet strain. The child's round 
cheeks flushed a rare crimson; the big, 
brown eyes opened wide. Jeanne had 
heard such music before at the fair in the 
Canadian viflage — a fiddle, surely a horn 

— oh, joy, a drum ! She must get nearer 
to that wonderful sound. Far oif lay the 
village of North Hatton — she could just 
see the white church spire rising out of the 
clustering trees. Forgotten was Francois 

— one hand clutched a long, red splint that 
bent and wavered as she hurried. Once 
she sank down to rest for a few minutes on 
the sun-warmed grass by the roadside, but 
the beautiful music ever urged her on. 

Down in North Hatton everything was 
rush and excitement, for it was the Hun- 
dredth Anniversary of the town, as well as 
Old Home Day, and flocking back to the 
little New Hampshire village came her loyal 
sons and daughters. This morning, the 
Governor, himself, had arrived, and an in- 
spiring band from Concord even now was 
playing patriotic airs. A long procession of 
gaily trimmed wagons was already forming. 
Here might be seen a blue hay-rigging, its 



HOW LITTLE JEANNE SAW "OLD HOME DAY 



63 



clumsy wheels wound with golden rod, 
long branches of hemlock waving at its sides, 
filled with rosy country girls dressed in 
their grandmothers' gowns — funny, short- 
waisted dresses with balloon-like sleeves, 
and sunbonnets shading laughing faces. Fol- 
lowing them, a sturdy country lad on horse- 
back with knee breeches and three-cornered 
hat, and perched on a pillion behind him a 
pretty maid, whose cheeks were as pink as 
her linsey-woolsey dress, and whose great 
poke bonnet bent under its weight of 
feathers and bows. 

From the hotel at East Hatton, three 
miles away, came a shining carriage bearing 
a load of ' ' city people, ' ' and flags and gar- 
lands of clematis floated from canopy top 
and harness. Country teams appeared from 
all directions, driven by sun-burned men, 
who, with their wives and children, all in 
Sunday best, were anxious to join in, the 
great parade, which was to be led by the 
Governor, himself, riding a beautiful black 
horse. 

The route was to be around the Green; 
past the old t?vern, whose weather-worn 
sign even yet invited travelers to stop and 
rest; down by the church and cemetery, out 
past the oldest house in the village, and 
back again to the Green, where music and 
speeches were to follow a genuine New 
England dinner. 

A goodly crowd of sight-seers lined the 
principal street; staid old villagers, who did 
not care to swell the gay procession, and 
country people from the surrounding towns, 
anxious to see it all. Then came a piercing 
note from the cornet; it was the signal to 
start. The Governor rode slowly to his 
place at the head of the line, the band com- 
menced to play a familiar march, and then, 
one by one, the gay wagons fell into posi- 
tion, many winning merited praise from the 
cro-w d. 

But who was this solitary little figure at 
the very end of the line, walking alone ? 



A tiny, Indian maiden, clad in a frayed, 
blue skirt and red blouse, her ruffled tresses 
black as a raven' s wing. Was that a crimson- 
tipped arrow held in one little brown hand ? 
Perhaps some village child arrayed thus 
quaintly to give needed touch to *'01d 
Home Day," as if a daughter of a long- 
gone race had come back to visit the old 
haunts. Every eye followed her as she 
walked slowly along with bent head, all un- 
seeing, only the compelling music sounding 
in her ears. Suddenly the band ceased 
playing — she looked up and met the gaze 
of all the strange faces; gave a frightened 
cry, and hid her childish face in her round 
brown arms. Forgotten were the entranc- 
ing strains — she remembered only "Big 
Jeanne "and Francois, and burst into wild 
sobs. 

The kindly people crowded around her; 
the procession came to a halt — a motherly 
looking woman pressed forward, and ex- 
claimed: "Why, it's the Little Indian girl 
from the basket place on the Cross-roads ! 
Sure enough? Why, mercy me ! How 
came the child here? " 

The word sped down the line, and finally 
came to the ears of the Governor. He was 
a father, himself, this Governor, and re- 
membered a certain, fair little girl at home. 
He rode straight up to the forlorn little 
figure, and looked pityingly down at her. 

* ' Take care of her till I return, ' ' he said, 
"and I will ride up to the Cross-roads and 
deliver her safely to her mother. ' ' 

So it happened that the basket makers 
had a call at noon that day from His Ex- 
cellency, himself. I doubt if they appre- 
ciated the honor more than did Jeanne, 
who, seated before the Governor on the 
great black horse, her pocket heavy with 
pennies, rode so quickly up the steep road, 
down which she had toiled earlier in the 
morning. 

And thus it was that little Jeanne saw 
Old Home Day. 




The Wischnetzky- Porter Kitchenette 



By HELEN CAMPBELL 



I 



S it all one name, — Russian of 
course, — and what does it mean? 
A kind of carriage, or a new order of 
automobile, and why, if I may ask, do 
you choose it for this section in Current 
Events ? ' ' 

It was the chairman of this section who 
spoke, a middle-aged and rather ponderous 
lady, who sought always to have the useful 
uppermost in their discussions. She re- 
peated the title and looked interrogatively 
at the slender, alert, bright-eyed profTerer 
of the slip holding it. It had for some time 
been the rule of the section that such facts 
as bore on better methods in private life 
should be given, no less than those relating 
to pubhc issues, but pretty Mrs. Marston's 
sense of humor was strong, and her han- 
dling, at times, rather a shock to the slower 
mind of the excellent chairman, the expres- 
sion of whose face at present had a tinge of 
suspicion. 

*' It is, or rather, it holds, a fact of real 
sociologic significance," Mrs. Marston be- 
gan gravely. " It's really the story of a young 
pair I know, but whose names of course I 
could not give, so I have Russianized one 
and changed the other. You see, they have 
solved the problem, for the time, at any 
rale, of living on an income and 'n a way 
utterly unknown before to either, — in a 
three-room home in a big, old-fashioned 
house in that part of New York, where there 
still are old-fashioned houses, most of them 
made over into a sort of flats, but with no 
modern improvements, or, at any rate, this 
had none. But I will tell you the story just 
as the girl told it to me, a lesson for many 
a girl who hesitates about marrying a poor 
man, or what we should call poor. ' ' And 
now Mrs. Marston faced the section as if a 
recitation were in order, and gave the story 
with all the enthusiasm of the original 
teller. 

*I really hadn't thought much about 



marrying, you see, for I was having such a 
good time, living on at home after I left 
college, with a fat allowance, and everything 
on earth done for me by my absurdly de- 
voted parents, especially my father. I liked 
society much better than I had supposed 
I should; when I used to read about its folly, 
etc. , at college, and Tom was of the same 
mind even after he became a piece of the 
university machinery, a sort of instructor, 
while he did more studying himself, yet 
managed to go to things and spend every 
cent of his ridiculous little income. We 
danced together and all that, and thought 
we were the best of chums, when suddenly 
we discovered we had gone farther, oh, 
yes, much farther, and Tom actually said 
he must and would marry me, and I said, 
'^ Of course, for there is no use in pretend- 
ing we don' t want to. ' ' 

' Now here we were; two people who 
had never thought of economy and never 
had to. I don' t mean in any millionaire 
fashion, but we had always lived like other 
people, and thought nothing about it. My 
allowance would stop when I married, for 
of course I would not have my father sup- 
port me after that event any more than 
Tom would. In short, we had to find out 
how to live on an income less than half 
what we both had lived on before, and I 
took pencil and paper and went through 
figures enough to fill an arithmetic. I wish 
there was an arithmetic for young folks who 
have n' t a notion of how to begin living on 
a smaller basis than they have taken for 
granted. 

' In the list I made, the roof over our 
heads came first; food to eat, clothes to 
wear, good enough not to disgrace our 
friends, some theatre and opera, some 
travel, some books, and, at least, a chafing- 
dish supper, at times, for our guests, these 
were the must-be' s. 

' The roof. The very smallest apartment 



64 



THE WISCHNETZKY-PORTER KITCHENETTE 



65 



in the house my family inhabited would 
have taken every cent of that income. I 
just had to drop right out of the world in 
which they Hved, particularly if we were to 
keep a little reserve fund for emergencies, 
a thing on which I was bent. So I hunted 
and hunted, and at last came upon this 
old house, — an apartment, if you like to 
call it so, for only ten dollars a month. 
Don't scream. Such things are possible 
even in New York, if you are willing to take 
the accompanying limitations. There was 
no hot water and no steam heat; nothing 
but cold water in all the halls, and no bath- 
room. That I thought I could not bear, 
but when I saw the really tremendous room 
as compared with ordinary flats, or even 
houses, I said I believed we could manage 
to be comfortable, and we have, though it is 
partly because Tom is a saint and ready to 
turn his hand to anything, and he calls m.e 
another, which is well. 

* You see, it was an enormous room eigh- 
teen by twenty-five feet, and that is enor- 
mous when you think of what flats give you; 
and back of it were two baby rooms, made 
I don't just know how; a dark one meant 
for bedroom, and the kitchenette with a big 
window of its own. Now, you are to look 
at everything. 

** You may be sure I did. The one big 
room was full of sunshine from those high 
windows, like a church almost. They had 
covered the walls with burlap of dull sage- 
green, the wood-work was exactly the same 
color, and the ceiling, in cream. A long, 
low bookcase, just pine boards painted like 
the woodwork, was on one side, their com- 
bined books, a real little library and a good 
one, and on the top were some pieces of 
burnished copper, Italian and otherwise, a 
Russian samovar among them. They had 
left the floor of unpainted boards, scrubbed 
white, just like a social settlement living- 
room, with rugs here and there. Oppo- 
site the bookcase was a square table big 
enough to seat four, and beyond it a tre- 
mendous couch, also in green, with numer- 
ous pillows to match, and there was also a 
big, low reading-stand with periodicals and 
a smoking outfit. A writing desk stood be- 



tween the windows, and an old-fashioned- 
pier-glass was let into the wall just where 
the light fell best upon it, a cupboard- 
with glass doors beyond, showing a good 
store of china, and the drawers underneath 
big enough for all household linen. A 
very few fine photographs were on the wall, 
two Corots, and one or two other favorites, 
but a general sense of wide spaces and no 
crowding prevailed. It ' s simply delight- 
ful, I said. " ' Is n' t it ? * she answered. 
Restful as nothing I ever saw before in 
this bric-a-braced generation. I ' ve got no 
end packed away in boxes but not a piece 
shall come in to disturb the repose of this 
blessed place. You see we have a gas- 
heater so as to have no bother with coal 
and ashes, and it really does its work well 
for we ' ve tried it. Sunday nights, we have 
a fire in the grate and burn some driftwood 
as the hio-hest of treats to our visitors. 

o 

^ Now you want to know how I did it. 
Just think ! I had the ' ' gall,' ' as Tom says, 
to ask that all my wedding presents be m 
money, and not a soul objected, for, you see, 
I had told them all just what I meant to do 
and they took it as a kind of tremendous 
joke. Look at the chairs. They ' re men' s 
chairs mostly, for Tom has a lot of chums, 
and I got the kind they like as well as these 
low ones for my chums. Just a few you 
see, for leather costs lots. Now come and 
see the kitchenette. That 's what we call 
the whole establishment, for it's really a 
very important part of it. It is a study in 
green and white, just big enough for a gas 
range — a delightful little porcelain sink, 
a refrigerator, a dish cupboard and the 
cook. 

' You see, if Tom comes in I must go 
out. But mostly he doesn't except to 
wipe dishes. I took one of the cash wed- 
ding presents and had the water pipe run 
from the hall to my sink. As for what was 
meant for bedroom, no sleeping in dark 
rooms for us, the couch turns at night into 
twin beds, and as for a bath tub, there it 
is folded up against the little-room wall and 
we have a small hose and run it from the 
kitchen faucet, to fill it. This same little 
room has to be closet and place to put gen- 



66 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



eral truck, trunks and all that, you see. 
At night we pull the couch to the middle 
of the big room and have windows wide 
open. As for cleaning and all that, we put 
the laundry out and the same woman comes 
to scrub and is exceedingly proud of the 
white floor. 

< We 've lived through the first year in 
it and the people I never dreamed would 
come near us seerr; ^o like to come and 
think it an immense joke that I can cook. 
Of course there will be by and by, some- 
thing more of what they would call civilized, 
for Tom' s book is really selling, but I like 
it just as it is and shall be homesick when 
we make a change. Neighbors ? All sorts, 
Armenian refugees, with most stately man- 
ners, on the first floor, and a schoolteacher 
and her older sister, who does something 
for a living, and so on, and we are all good 
friends, which never happened before since 
flats began. And I can cook. My father 
can't believe it, even when he eats my pro- 



ductions. Tom says I can at any time earn 
my own living as chef, and I ' ve learned it 
all since we began, and from the beginning 
the things were decent. So I say with an 
intelligent cook book and some sense to 
start with, any woman could do the same, 
if she cared enough for her man to make it 
worth while. Nothing was ever so much 
worth while, and you may teU it to every 
silly girl you know, who is losing half the 
fun of the beginning because she wants the 
conventional nonsense. This is the simple 
Hfe with a vengeance, my friends say, but 
oh, how good it is ! ' — and the tears 
were in her eyes as she spoke. 

" So it has seemed worth while to tell what 
one girl has found it possible to do and re- 
joices in, as an answer to the talk we heard 
the other day on '■ Modern Difficulties in 
Marriage,' a meek suggestion of possibili- 
ties for the few who will think it worth 
while. And this is all the story up to 
date.'' 



August Son: 



By HARRIETTE ROBINSON SHATTUCK 



Oh, the dahlias ! they are glorious. 

And so ' s the golden glow. 
Sun-flowers and gladiolls, 

They make an elegant show. 
Marigold's velvet splendor, 

Is gorgeous for to see. 
But oh, the phlox. 

And the hollyhocks, 

For me. 



Hail ! royal maiden asters, 

Nasturtiums en masse, 
And fair, white-light day lily, 

A-nodding as you pass; 
Dear star-eyed portulaca. 

Wee snow-drop, and sweet-pea, 
But the hollyhocks. 

And the four-o' clocks, 

For me. 



Poppy and prince's feather, 

Petunia's rustic bloom, 
Purple and pearl althea. 

Salvia' s scarlet plume, 
Clematis and moon-flower, 

Late wistaria, — See ! 
But hollyhocks, phlox, 

And four-o' clocks, 
For me. 



A Talk to Young Girls 



By JESSIE JULIET KNOX 



GIRLS, would you like to get mar- 
ried ? Then listen to some of the 
'^don'ts" and ^^do's," which 
may tend to bring about that result. 

You need not be ashamed to acknowl- 
edge to yourself that you would like to be 
married, — that is, of course, if you are old 
enough. This does not mean that you 
should go around shouting the fact through 
a megaphone to the world at large. No, 
just keep this sweet desire to yourself, and, 
for the benefit of this same self and all 
other selves who are to fill your life here- 
after, remember all the things that go to 
make the perfect wife. 

There are so many requirements that 
might come first on the list, but what is 
better for a beginning than education ? 

An ilUterate girl will attract an illiterate 
man, for like seeks like; but you must do 
better than that. In a companion for life 
you want the best there is, do you not? 
You do not want your children to look 
down upon their parents, and be ashamed 
to own them before cultured friends. So 
go to school as long as you can, learn all 
you can, and then you will be ready to 
mate with the highest, and to keep on 
climbing, instead of going down the ladder. 

Now I know what kind of a girl a man 
would like to marry, and I think it only 
fair to tell you. There are things you must 
do, and those you must not do, to be that 
kind of a girl. You may not know this, 
but all the time a young man is in your 
society he is silently studying you. He 
may not know this himself. 

In a certain city there are some bright, 
talented, handsome girls, and people often 
say: ''I wonder why those girls don't get 
married. If they are not careful they will 
be old maids." Now I know. It is be- 
cause they show their claws. I asked a 
man, and he told me. He acknowledged 
that they were bright, handsome, etc. , but 



said : ' ' You can see by the way they snap 
their eyes, and snap off their words, that 
they all have the disposition of a — cat." 
They possibly would like to be married, but 
they never will be, unless their claws fall, 
and never come back again. 

You cannot fool men with sweetness that 
is only for company. The voice — the ex- 
pression — the manner; all tell of the nature 
back of these, and a man can read the signs. 
He is pecuharly gifted that way. 

There is such a long list of things the 
perfect girl should be and do, in order to 
attract the perfect man — the man of whose 
love she would be proud. 

I believe the trait a man dislikes most of 
all, is ill- temper. 

All the honeyed sweetness one can pos- 
sibly assume will not deceive, if it be only 
donned for the occasion. There are little 
tell-tale looks and signs that reveal the un- 
controlled temper, and unless you learn 
perfect control in the bosom of your family, 
and learn to be sweet and gentle under aU 
circumstances, not for the sake of company, 
but for your own sake, and because it is 
the right and true way, you cannot deceive 
any one by assuming it when occasion re- 
quires. Though a man may feel drawn to 
you on account of personal beauty, at the 
indication of a bad temper he will find some 
opportunity for ending the friendship, for 
he does not want a wife who will develop 
into a shrew. 

Cleanliness stands near the head of the 
list of personal attractions. 

Nothing is more attractive in a young 
girl than always to look as though she had 
frequent acquaintance with the bath, and to 
appear at all times as sweet and fresh as the 
dew. A girl should endeavor to keep herself 
immaculate, and never be afraid of the good 
old-fashioned use of soap and water. I do 
not mean by this that she should always be 
dressed, as for a party, in all the latest frills 



67 



68 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of fashion. No, the sweetest girls of all 
ages have been those who cultivated sim- 
plicity in manner, and in attire. The nails 
should be manicured, but not to such an 
extreme as to interfere with washing the 
dishes or assisting mother when necessary. 
The teeth should be kept milk white, for 
what is so attractive as pearly teeth shining 
from ruby lips? And the hair — '"Tis 
woman's crown of glory." One may not 
always be blessed with abundant or beauti- 
ful tresses, but those of ordinary beauty can 
be greatly enhanced by frequent shampoo- 
ing and brushing, and an occasional mas- 
sage. Elaborate styles of hair dressing 
do not attract a young man. It rather in- 
clines him to think that the girl must have 
devoted more time to her hair than to some 
other and more important duties, perhaps. 

As to the complexion, that calls for a 
volume in itself There are so many ways 
of beautifying the complexion, ways that 
are nature's own, and do not come out of 
a box. Why use roses from a box, when 
nature is waiting to give you her roses, if 
you will only do her bidding? Her medi- 
cine is not repulsive — plenty of fresh air 
and sunshine, and exercise therein; plenty 
of air in the sleeping room; early to bed, 
early to rise. Eat plenty of fresh vegeta- 
bles and fruit, not much meat, and less fried 
food. ''No tight lacing, if you please," 
says Dame Nature, the only true physician, 
and refrain from a diet of sweets, pickles, 
and spices, to say nothing of coffee-grains, 
slate pencils, chalk, and other like dainties. 
Girls have such a foolish fancy for those 
things, you know, and then have the au- 
dacity to wonder why they are not blessed 
with a complexion of peaches and cream. 

Loud dressing is never in good taste at 
any time, and the real gentlewoman can 
always be distinguished by the simplicity 
and quiet elegance of her attire. Dainty 
and modest should be the apparel of the 
girl whom nature's own gentleman would 
wish to make his wife. 

No girl should think of getting married 
until she has learned how to cook, for the 
most important question of all is not golf, 
tennis and basket ball; but — bread, meat 



and coffee. A good cook is really more to 
be desired than a pretty face, and she will 
wear better. All the fine arts will not fill 
the stomach of a hungry man, as will good 
cooking. When life begins for a young 
married couple, the question is not: Can 
you play a sonata, but can you fry an egg, 
or make a pot of coffee and a pan of bis- 
cuit ? You may not believe me now, but 
wait and you will see. 

And I can assure you from personal ex- 
perience that any man would prefer the 
foregoing edibles to the sonata, any day. 
Such is the perversity of man. 

The girl who has her mother for a chum is 
indeed blest. May she never have to give 
up such a mother, until she has learned 
her ways and imbibed her characteristics, 
culled oftentimes from bitterness and tears. 
The girl who loves and respects her mother, 
and considers her wishes, is far more apt 
to win the love of a true man than any other 
kind of girl; and nothing speaks so well for 
her, or gives her such a high place in a 
man' s esteem, as to see her in loving, yet 
respectful comradeship with her mother. 
It is no credit to any girl, no matter how 
beautiful or accomplished she may be, to 
sit in the parlor and warble: "Who Will 
Care for Mother Now? " while the afore- 
said maternal ancestor is in the basement, 
splitting wood. Some girls never learn this 
until it is too late. Happy the maiden who 
finds it out in time. 

It is well for every girl to be able to play 
and sing, for it is an accompHshment that 
gives pleasure not only to herself, but to 
many others, and helps to cheer weary 
hours, and brighten sad places in life. But 
do not get in the habit of playing so-called 
' ' popular ' ' songs, for it is no compliment 
to yourself to be fond of music that is 
chosen by the low and uncultured. It be- 
hooves you to cultivate a taste for the best 
in music; you will then attract the best in 
society. 

The less you see of vaudeville theatres 
and roller-skating rinks the better it will be 
for you. It is not there you will meet the 
class of people you wish to know. And 
above all, girls, do not attend the theatre or 



THE WIND IN THE EAST 69 

ball game on Sunday. It may be an old- her to be, — sweet and pure and true 

fashioned idea, but surely there are plenty and natural; one who, while cultivating the 

of other days in the week. talents that God has given her, is also well 

Have a religious belief of some kind. versed in the domestic arts, and "Who 

Cultivate the spiritual side of your nature, . looketh well to the ways of her house- 

for there will never be a time when you will hold. ' ' 

not need it; and the right kind of a young Now, girls, if you will try and do all I 

man will want that kind of a mother for have asked, I am sure it will not be long 

his children — not a high-heeled, pic- until you will be whispering a glad secret 

ture-hatted, loud-perfumed, and painted into my ear, and it will be — well — never 

mother, but one who is as nature intended mind what ! 



The Wind in the East 

By A, T, FROST 

One morning, our Clarissa Jane began the day all wrong; 

She would n't let her hair be curled, though it looked queer and long; 

She put her ruffled apron on, and 'twas her hest one, too. 

She scared the little boy, next door, and made a great ado, 

She went out in the garden beds, and picked a great bouquet; 

She gathered phlox, and mignonette, and roses, so they say, 

And lovely Canterbury bells, that had more buds than flowers; 

She watered 'em, she sprinkled 'em, just like hard thunder showers. 

''What ails the child ? " then Mother said, " I don't know in the least — ' 
But Grandma ansv.-ered: — "Don't you see the wind is in the East? 
For full a week it's blown and blown, day after day the same, 
When once the pleasant West Wind comes, she '11 change, Clarissa Jane ! 
Oh, Grandma always knows what' s right; yes, what she says is best. 
For when next morning came, why then, the wind blew from the West; 
Clarissa Jane, all curled and sweet, was just the nicest child; 
She did a square of patchwork first, she felt so good and mild. 

Well, next she rolled her dolls all out, and then gave one away 

To Nan, the gardener's little girl, who dearly loves to play — 

She never asked for cookies once, she read her primer through; 

A little girl more ladyhke I guess you never knew; 

Oh ! All she said and all she did I can't begin to tell: 

When bedtime came she still was good, 'till fast asleep she fell — 

If only it were n' t up so high, I' d tell the weather vane : — 

*'0h, never turn, please, towards the East, you know Clarissa Jane.'* 



Married or Single 



By KATE GANNETT WELLS 



IT is always tiresome when any one inti- 
mates that not all women have chances 
to marry, for it is just as true that any 
woman can marry some kind of a man, as 
that every man can marry somebody. In 
any case it is not bad manners for the man 
or the woman to make it easy for the other 
to speak first. 

Also it is annoying to have marriage urged 
for patriotic reasons, when what both men 
and women crave is to marry for love' s sake 
or for companionship. Yet the process of 
selection in marriage will depend upon tem- 
perament, and, all things considered, the 
average happiness of the world is advanced 
by marriage, though for an individual it is 
often happier to remain unmarried, as one 
can never be sure how another will turn out, 
nor how one will one's self Self surprises 
are often the strangest. 

If married, neither man nor woman is 
any longer independent; marriage is a com- 
promise, and, unless that fact be taken as 
the basis for mutual give and take, there 
will always be trouble. To start in on mar- 
riage with the notion that either the typical 
husband or wife is better morally than the 
other is a big mistake. However different 
may be their methods or emphasis, it is no 
use to abuse or exalt either party at the ex- 
pense of the other. Neither ever quite 
knows what she or he is at in marriage. 
Futile is it, too, also to rely on promises as 
satisfactory guarantee for a happy marriage. 
To expect to reform a man by just marrying 
him is sentimental optimism. If he cannot 
keep himself straight, no woman can long 
aid him effectually in such enterprise. 

The recent doctrine of the economic in- 
dependence of woman is, perhaps, the 
strongest motive in the feminine mind for 
leading a single life. She does not want to 
get entangled with a man's personal or 
financial affairs. Just as long as she remains 
single, what she has is her own, while the 



new found delight in being able to get 
money through hitherto unpracticed ways 
of employment has given a fresh zest to her 
life. The attractions of business now enter 
into competition with the old pastime of tak- 
ing unto one' s self a husband. This eager, 
haunting desire for economic independence 
is lessening the number of marriages more 
than any other cause. If regrettable, it is 
man's fault, who in the past too often has 
doled out in pittances to wife and daughters 
what should have been given them freely 
as theirs by right. 

Next as objection to marriage comes the 
desire to lead one's own life and to do 
things one' s own way. A woman does not 
always want to give up even her point of 
view. Still more is she unwilling to have 
to be always on the lookout for the under- 
standing of her husband's point of view. 
She knows that points of view, harmless at 
first, have a tendency to become fixed 
opinions, which in turn may lead to angry 
conflicts. 

Moreover, the more either man or woman 
knows of the frequency with which married 
people get bored with one another, the 
more preposterous it seems to be positive 
about the permanence of one's feehngs. 
There is a great deal more honest doubt in 
this way than is credited to the average man 
or woman. Fully one-third of the single 
people are so, because they were not sure 
that they could always feel as the marriage 
service requires, and, though really in love, 
they were so over-scrupulous in their earn- 
est desire to test themselves that they raised 
the demon of doubt, and then single life 
followed. 

Still, on the whole, does it pay for either 
man or woman to be single ? One can as 
well ask, does it pay to be married ? Cer- 
tainly there is no escape from the truth that 
marriage is risky, and that what each one 
needs is to know surely all about the other 



70 



MARRIED OR SINGLE 



71 



before even wanting to be married. A 
present method of obtaining such knowl- 
edge, much in vogue in England as well as 
here, is to get one' s self appointed on co- 
educational and co-philanthropic commit- 
tees, though women are such adepts and 
men so unlike their natural selves when on 
committees, that the information derived is 
not always authentic. It is difficult to say 
which learns the most or the least, for no 
outsider or frank friend ever tells the whole 
truth to one who is going to be in love. So 
the girl falls back on her intuitions and the 
man on his instincts, neither are reliable 
and results are doubtful. 

If a girl is in love, no array of counter 
facts will militate against her one precon- 
ceived fact that she loves. For she has 
gotten hold of the primal truth of marriage, 
the being in love, only it should be as true 
of old age as of youth. * ' You don' t know 
how beautiful you are to me, ' ' said an aged 
husband to his elderly wife. When they 
had been married forty years, each still 
thrilled at the unexpected sight, sound or 
touch of each other. They had their pri- 
vations and differences of opinion, but 
through it all they not merely loved each 
other, but were in love with one another. 
The two states of mind are not alike. It 
is the latter that gives the ecstatic tender- 
ness to marriage. Just think of two people 
always living together, especially if in nar- 
row quarters, and it never occurring to 
either of them that the other was disagree- 
able or that either was to be taken for 
granted. It was more than being comfort- 
ably at home with one another, it was 
the delight in each other's personality, to 
such an extent that life, itself, seemed pos- 
sible only through the other. Such a mar- 
riage is a thousand times better than any 
single state. 

It is a great, grand thing to love and to 
be loved, if only for a Httle while. But be- 
cause the joyance thereof may be short- 



lived and often followed by revulsion of 
feeling, it is never worth while to be mar- 
ried merely for the sake of experiencing it. 
Yet it can be truly argued that as the con- 
tinuance of the world depends on marriage, 
it seems the only natural, justifiable method 
of living and so it is too often adopted — - 
casually, without forecasting conditions. 
One can put up with the existence of a 
husband, if through him comes a home, it 
is sometimes acknowledged. 

After all, love, home, partial support, at 
least, and an imagined kind of prestige are 
the chief advantages in marriage for a wom- 
an, . while for a man to have a wife rounds 
out the full equipment of his estate, as he 
cares to have an heir to carry on his name 
and fame more than does the woman, who 
loves children from the very nature of 
her womanhood. Yet few women marry 
consciously from a desire to have children, 
while men do marry solely that a son may 
be born unto them. In single Hfe, even at 
its best, there is much intolerable loneliness, 
which grows worse every year after fifty for 
a woman or sixty for a man, though it is 
asserted that now-a-days there is so much 
to do in life, either through economies, 
pleasures, social research and improve- 
ment that one never need be lonely. All 
the same one is. 

But if the decision of one person is for 
a single life, let her never lose self-respect. 
If the determination of another is for mar- 
riage, let the mutual respect of husband 
and wife accompany it, neither ever con- 
fessing even to themselves that he or she 
has been fooled all the way along, unless the 
crisis come to the open and legal lengths of 
divorce. Given mutual respect, love and 
capacity for loyalty, married life is the hap- 
pier. Given worrying conscientiousness, 
timorous self-respect, love for humanity, 
but inabihty for self- adaptation to others, 
single life is the happier. 




72 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, ^i.oo per Year, Single Copies, ioc 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c Per Year 
To Other Foreign Countries, 40c Per Year 

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Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 

HEALTH, RECREATION AND REST 

TH E vacation season is on. By many 
families, housekeeping for the time 
being is suspended. Many a resi- 
dential street of our cities is well-nigh 
deserted. People are seeking health, rec- 
reation and rest, at the seaside and on the 
hillside, away from the dust and din of busy 
shop and mart. 

Business of many kinds, as the school 
year, is practically limited to eight or nine 
months of the year. Evidently the annual 
migration from the citycountryward is on the 
increase. Not only this holds, but people 
now go earher and stay later than they 
were wont to do. The hills of New Eng- 
land are dotted with the summer cottage. 
Every state has its summer resorts. All 



this points to growing prosperity and whole- 
some, economic conditions in the land. 

But alas ! all cannot enjoy an '' outing " 
in the country. Would that the time were at 
hand when everyone might take, at will, a 
good, long vacation. The salutary influence 
of a regular period of change or recreation 
cannot be overestimated. The man who 
boasts that he has never taken a holiday, 
is not to our liking. He does not repre- 
sent the spirit of the age. The most suc- 
cessful among men, it seems, are those who 
can laugh. Amusement becomes an im- 
portant item in healthful living. 

But by far the best results of a prolonged 
vacation comes from that direct contact 
with mother earth, which life in the open 
air affords. Here we live naturally — the 
proper way of living. We read from the 
infallible book of nature, and learn to do 
by doing. Often the renewed health and 
strength gained in the summer outing, 
proves to be the most reliable asset ot the 
year. After the experience of a complete 
change of scene, problems that were wont 
to perplex appear in a new light; their 
solution seems less difficult. They who 
never lay down their burdens, and take a 
season of rest, are apt to become narrow- 
minded, one-sided and short-hved. Wide 
acquaintance with the earth, that is the 
scientific mind, is characteristic of the lead- 
ers in thought of our day. Among the de- 
servedly popular books of the day, are the 
so-called nature books. He, who year by 
year grows fond of nature, and who truly 
loves his fellow man, is not far from the 
kingdom of Heaven. 

"Men actively engaged in the actual 
economic struggle, are the only ones able 
to instruct others in the way of life; and all 
agree that the only way to prepare for an- 
other life is to live well here." Go, then, 
into the country and to work in the soil, 
and you will find sermons in stones, books, 
in running brooks, and good in everything. 



EVOLUTION IN EDUCATION 
WRITER of editorials in a re- 
ligious journal thus condenses what 
is being done to solve some of 



A 



EDITORIALS 



73 



our greater educational problems: 

"Schools as social centres are beginning 
to assume their proper position. Chicago 
has spent, or is about to spend, not less 
than ^12,000,000 on recreation centres for 
the children of the city and their parents. 
This includes playgrounds and clubhouses 
for all seasons of the year, 

''The clubhouses are open for concerts 
and lectures in the evening, and occasion- 
ally for dances, under rigid supervision. 
They are said to have improved not only 
the children, but to have made better citi- 
zens of the fathers and mothers. Restau- 
rants furnish simple and wholesome food at 
cost price. Among other cities, Pittsburg is 
specially agitating this social centre move- 
ment. New York City has led the way in 
utilizing her schoolhouses for lectures, 
concerts, and general recreation. But as a 
rule, the union schoolhouses of the coun- 
try, which have displaced the old district 
schools, still stand idle, except during the 
five hours of old-fashioned school work. 
Here, something must be done, not only 
in behalf of the children, but so as to give 
the school its proper place at the head of 
town influences. The school must displace 
the saloon and other corrupting influences. 
' ' Industrial education is a spontaneity of 
the age. It could not be helped, even if 
we did not beheve in its advisabihty. The 
main end of education is not to stuff the 
child with facts, but to enable him to use 
every fact that he discovers. The brunt of 
recent discussion urges that this economic 
feature of schooling should point toward 
better home-making. The farm boy should 
be so trained and taught that he will go back 
to the farm with a better apprehension of 
his work and an increased fondness for it. 
The domestic arts should have their place 
in every school. Work along these Hnes 
of preparatory home-making should find 
abundant credit. The superintendent of 
the Cleveland schools advocates technical 
high schools, to give girls an opportunity in 
the applied arts, — in sewing, dressmaking, 
cooking, and all sorts of household work. 
He thinks that what we need is to re-create 
home instincts in our young people. Art 



courses in the high schools are elective, and 
give no credit toward graduation. He in- 
tends a substantial course in industrial arts, 
which shall receive full credit, as full as 
arithmetic or grammar. This is a noble 
proposition, and will lead the way to a revo- 
lution throughout the country. " 

In not a few schools individual teaching 
is taking the place of the old-time method 
of indiscriminate class instruction. The 
human mind is not a thing to be subjected 
to one and the same mechanical process. 
In training children, and fitting them for 
life's work, why should not the natural gifts 
and aptitudes of each individual be consid- 
ered ? In short, the education of the future 
will be less theoretical and dogmatical, and 
more natural, scientific and specific in char- 
acter. The test of all knowledge or truth 
today is in its utility, the practical use that 
can be made of it. 



FAITH, HOPE AND CHARITY 

IS there anything people used to beheve 
which they beheve today ! The actuat- 
ing spirit may be the same, we surmise, 
but its expression is quite different. Once 
men piled fagots about those who differed 
greatly from them in behef, and applied a 
torch to them. We no longer do that way; 
such untoward practice of intolerance has 
died out. Happiness and misery have ever 
been and ever will be on earth, but the 
amount of happiness today is larger than at 
any past time. Faith, hope and charity ever 
abound, but the ways in which these find 
expression are constantly changing. 

Cheerfulness is characteristic of the spirit 
of our times. Instead of regarding this life 
merely as a means of disciphne and prepara- 
tion for another, and mirth as a kind of 
sinning, people are more deeply concerned 
about right living, now and here. "And 
now abideth faith, hope, charity, these 
three; but the greatest of these is charity. " 
The philosophy of the day, perhaps, is 
expressed in humorous vein by the follow- 
ing verses clipped from a little poem en- 
titled, ' ' The Sorrows of a Skipper. ' ' 

" The chances is ag'in' us," says the Skipper in 
dismav. 



74 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



" If Fate don't kill us out and out, it gits us all 
some day. 
So many perish of old age, the death-rate must 
be fearful " — 
" Well," says the mate, 
" At any rate 
We might as well die cheerful." 

" I read in them statistic books," the nervous 

Skipper cries, 
" That every minute by the clock some feller ups, 
and dies. 
I wonder what disease they gits that kills in 
such a hurry " — 
The Mate he winks 
And says, " I thinks 
They mostly dies o' worry." 

" Of certain things," the Skipper sighs, " me con- 
science won't be rid. 
And all the wicked things I done I sure should 

not have did. 
The wrinkles on me inmost soul compel me oft 
to shiver " — 
" Yer soul 's fust rate," 
Observes the Mate ; 
" The trouble 's with yer liver," 



CLUB LIFE FOR WOMEN. 

SOME time ago Miss Alice E. Ives, a 
playwright, talked in New York, about 
the English clubwoman, how the *^icy 
calm ' ' of her demeanor at home and in the 
houses of others, melted in the club. 

Now comes Mrs. G. Cornwallis West, a 
New Yorker by birth, who says that the 
''good-fellowship which exists in men's 
clubs is unknown in those for women" in 
London; ' ' a woman who joins a club in the 
hope of social intercourse is woefully disap- 
pointed." But Mrs. West admits that 
there are attempts in London, to inspire a 
teeling of what the Germans call **gemue- 
thlichkeit. ' ' A new member in a woman' s 
club, shocked her fellow members by put- 
ting her feet on the back of a chair, going 
to sleep and snoring. Called to an account, 
she answered: ''I won't be restricted in 
any of my privileges ! Is n' t this supposed 
to be like a man's club? I know they 
always put their feet on the mantlepiece. " 
The London woman evidently does not 
know that men put their feet on chairs, 
veranda railings and mantlepieces, solely for 



the purpose of resting the heart. To keep 
the feet on a level with the head, or even 
higher, for fifteen minutes or half an hour, 
at various times in the course of the day, 
is of great hygienic benefit. She should also 
know that in well-regulated clubs for men, 
members are not allowed to sleep on the 
floor or on articles of furniture. The atti- 
tude might awaken unpleasant and derog- 
atory suspicion. — Simday Herald. 



THE type of duty-driven, self-sacri- 
ficing person is by no means rare. 
*' There are plenty of them in the 
world," says the Harper's Weekly, ''and 
they are usually — not always — of the 
feminine gender. ' ' 

' ' They fritter away their lives, doing Httle 
things for other people, encouraging those 
about them in small self-indulgences and 
lazy pettiness. But is it self-sacrifice, or is 
it a kind of timidity and shirking that makes 
them adopt these tactics ? The mother who 
waits upon her child, who, as we Americans 
say, ' spoils ' her child, does so because it 
is infinitely easier to govern one's self in 
little things, to exert one's self for small 
services, and to accept small sacrifices than 
it is to demand the highest ideal from those 
around us. It requires more strength of 
purpose to demand attentions, civilities, 
and service from our subordinates than to 
forego them. There is nothing so easy to 
be, nothing that requires less moral stamina 
and purpose, than a household drudge or a 
person used by others, instead of a person 
with objects, interests, pursuits, and defi- 
nite intentions. On the whole, when we 
look around and see the helpless and use- 
less people, they are nearly all folk who, at 
some time or other, had the excuse of self- 
sacrifice. They are the women who did 
not go to college because mother would 
have been lonely; or the wives who have 
no resources or interests because they 
waited on their children all day and enter- 
tained their husbands every evening. In 
the end, it is true, that it is the self-helpers 
who can help others; those who would not 
give of their oil, but industriously burned 
their lights. ' ' 



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Poaching Eggs for Two 



Seasonable Recipes 

By JANET M. HILL 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless' otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Scandinavian Hors d' oeuvre 

Cut into match-like shreds, an inch long. 
equal portions of cold, cooked eggs, pota- 
toes and beets, also gherkins and ancho- 
vies, herrings or sardines; season to taste 
with salt, pepper and cider vinegar, then 
stir in enough cream, beaten firm, to hold 
the ingredients together. Serve on small, 
carefully washed-and-dried lettuce leaves, 
a teaspoonful to each service. 

Cream-of- Tomato Soup 

Cook enough sliced tomatoes to make a 
pint of puree when pressed through a sieve. 
Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; cook in it 
one-fourth a cup ol flour and a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, then add one quart of milk; stir 
constantly until the mixture boils, then set 
over hot water. When ready to serve stir 
the hot tomato into the thickened milk, 



add salt and pepper as needed, and serve 
at once with browned crackers or croutons. 
If too thick add hot milk or broth. 

Puree of Cucumbers, Queen Style 

Pare four large green cucumbers; cut in 
quarters, remove and discard the seeds, then 
cut in slices; cover with cold water and heat 
to the boiling point; let boil five minutes, 
then drain, rinse in cold water, and drain 
again. ]\Ielt one-fourth a cup of butter in 
a saucepan, add the cucumbers, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a dash of paprika; 
cover and let cook slowly one hour without 
taking color. In another saucepan melt 
one-fourth a cup of butter, and in it cook 
one-third a cup of flour, then add three 
pints of chicken or veal broth and the cu- 
cumbers; let cook ten minutes after boiling 
begins; then pass the whole through a 
puree sieve. Heat again to the boiling 



76 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



point, add salt and pepper as needed, 
a cup or more of scalded cream, or a 
cup of cream mixed with the beaten 




Salmon Steak for two 

yolks of two eggs, and serve at once. 

Salmon Steak for Two 

Select a slice from near the middle of the 
salmon. Have it cut about three-fourths 
an inch thick. Such a shce will weigh from 
half to three-quarters of a pound. Butter 
an agate pan, lay the steak upon it, and 
pour around about half a cup of boiling 
water, to which a teaspoonful of lemon juice 
or vinegar and " scant half teaspoonful of 
salt have bet. ^ dded. Butter a piece of 
waxed paper arid lay over the fish. Set 
the pan directly over the fire and let stand 
until the water boils, then cook in the oven 
ten minutes. In the meantime, pare three 
or four large, round potatoes, and with a 
French scoop cut from them as many balls 




Salmon Steaks Baked with W 
as possible. Put these over the fire, in 



boihng, salted water, to cook till tender. 

Melt a tablespoonful and a half of butter; 

in this cook a tablespoonful and a half of 
flour, then add half a cup of 
water and the liquid in the 
fish-pan and let cook until 
boilmg. Set the fish on a 
platter with the potatoes, 
drained and rolled in the pan 
with a tablespoonful of but- 
ter and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Put two slices of 
lemon at the base of the fish, 
and sprinkle the whole with 
fine-chopped parsley. Serve 
the sauce in a bowl. 

Salmon Steaks, Baked in Wine 

Have three slices, three-fourths an inch 
thick, cut from the middle of a salmon. They 
will weigh from half to three-fourths a 
pound, each. Butter the bottom of an agate 
baking pan, lay in the slices of fish, pour 
around them half a cup of white wine, and 
one-fourth a cup of chicken or veal broth 
or water, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of pepper. Cover the fish with a 
buttered paper, and set the pan over the 
fire until the Hquid boils, then place it in 
the oven to cook ten minutes. Remove the 
slices of fish to a hot platter, and strain the 
liquid into a small saucepan. Beat the yolks 
of three eggs; gradually beat in the fish 
liquid and return the whole to the fire to 
cook over hot water, 
stirring constantly until 
the sauce thickens, then 
beat in, little by Httle, 
four tablespoonfuls of 
butter. Have ready po- 
tato balls, cut with a 
French cutter and boiled 
tender in salted water. 
Turn these on to the 
dish with the fish; pour 
the sauce over the 
whole and sprinkle with 
a tablespoonful of fine- 
5 . chopped parsley. Gar- 

nish with a slice of 
lemon for each service. Pare the thin yel- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



77 



low rind two-thirds around each slice, and 
tie it in a loose knot. 

Individual Souffles of 

Salmon (Cold Entree.) 

Free half a pound of 
cooked salmon from skin 
and bones; add to it five or 
six anchovy fillets, or a gen- 
erous teaspoonful of anchovy 
paste, and pound the whole 
to a smooth paste. Cut eight 
slices from a pared cucum- 
ber, stamp these into rings, 
and set them aside in ice water. Cook the rest 
of the cucumber in boiling stock or water 
until tender, then let drain and cool in cold 
water; drain again and pound with the fish, 
then press the whole through a fine sieve. 
Add a level tablespoonful of gelatine, soft- 
ened in half a cup offish or chicken broth 
and seasoned with vegetables. Add also 
salt, pepper, and, if desired, a few truffle 
trimmings chopped fine; mix thoroughly 
and set the dish into ice water. When the 
mixture begins to set, fold in from one-half 
to one whole cup of cream, beaten solid. 
When the whole is evenly mixed, use to 
fill eight (or more) very -small- china or 
paper cases. Before filling the cases, pin 
a fold of waxed paper around the top of 



seasoned with French dressing, and hold- 
ing a round from a slice of truffle, on the 
top of each. 



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Braised Calf's Liver 



Braised Calf's Liver 

Cut match-like strips of pork from that 
portion of a piece of fat salt pork which lies 
just below the rind; draw these into the 
best looking side of a calf's liver, or en- 
tirely through the liver. Put the trimmings 
of the pork into a frying pan, and, when 
the fat is well cooked out, put in the liver 
and cook until nicely browned, first on one 
side and then on the other. Set the liver 
in a casserole or an agate pudding dish. 
Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour in the hot 
fat; add about three cups of broth or water, 
and stir while heating to the boiling point. 
Pour this over the liver, add two sprigs of 
parsley, half a red pepper pod, a bunch of 
celery, cut in two-inch pieces, five or six 




Souffle of Salmon Turned from Case. Souffle of Salmon in Cases. 



each case, to be removed before serving 
the dish; the effect produced is that of a 
cooked souffle which rises during cooking. 
Serve very cold with a ring of cucumber, 



carrots, scraped and cut in lengthwise 
quarters, or in smaller pieces, if the carrots 
are large, and a half dozen onions peeled 
and browned in butter; cover and let cook 



78 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



two hours in the oven, 
to a servii 
vegetables, 



Remove the hver 
dish, and surround with the 
Remove any fat on the gravy, 




Eggs for Two Cooked in Cream 

and pour over the whole; finish with a gen- 
erous sprinkling of fine-chopped parsley. 
Half a cup of sherry wine may be added 
with the broth, or a cup of tomato juice 
may replace an equal measure of the broth. 

Stuffed Cucumbers 

The pared cucumbers may be cut in 
halves lengthwise, or, to be used as the 
garnish of a dish or for individual service, 
they may be cut, transversely, in pieces an 
inch and a half long (see illustration). Re- 
move the seeds, to leave a smooth inner sur- 
face. Cover the prepared cucumbers with 
boiling water and let cook four or five min- 
utes, then drain, rinse in cold water and 



mushrooms, a slice of onion and one-fourth 
a clove of garlic, all chopped very fine, in 
a little butter. When these become dry, 
add two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of white wine, three 
tablespoonfuls of tomato 
puree, and two tablespoon- 
fuls of rich, brown sauce, 
and let simmer until well re- 
duced, then stir into the sau- 
sage and use as a filling for 
the cucumbers. Soft, grated 
bread crumbs may be added, 
if the mixture be too soft to 
hold its shape. Set the cu- 
cumbers in a buttered agc.te 
pan, turn in a little broth, cover the pan 
with a buttered paper, and let cook in a slow- 
oven about forty minutes. Serve with a 
brown sauce to which a few spoonfuls of 
cream have been added. 

Sweet, Green Peppers, Mexican 
Style 

Put the peppers on a toaster over the 
fire, turning often. When the thin, outer 
skin puffs out, wrap them in a dry cloth. 
Let stand fifteen or twenty minutes to 
*^ sweat, ' ' when they may be easily peeled. 
Slit the peeled peppers on the side, care- 
fully remove the seeds and veins, and set 
the peppers in an earthen bowl. Mix vin- 




Stuffed Cucumbers 



dry on a cloth. Remove the skins from 
one-fourth a pound of sausage meat, and 
chop the meat very, very fine. Fry four 



egar and water, half and half, and use to 
cover the peppers. Stir into the vinegar 
and water a teaspoonful of whole cloves. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



79 



one teaspoonful of salt, a piece of cinnamon 
bark, broken in pieces, a bit of bay leaf 
and two or three cloves of garlic. Just 
before serving, chop fine two peeled toma- 
toes, one onion and two 
sprigs of parsley, and cook 
these in a little melted but- 
ter, until the water evapo- 
rates; add a dozen almonds, 
blanched and shredded, a 
dozen raisins, seeded and 
cut in halves, and a small 
can of sardines, f from which 
the skin and bones have 
been taken), picked in small 
pieces. Drain the peppers 
and fill with the fish mixture. 

Chicken Livers Sauted with Cu- 
cumbers 

Pare two or three large, green cucum- 
bers, cut them in quarters or eighths, ac- 
cording to size, and remove the seed por- 
tion; cut the strips of cucumbers into pieces 
about an inch and a half in length, and round 
the ends to make oval-shaped pieces of the 
same shape and size. Cook these in stock 
with an onion, into which three cloves have 
been pressed, two sprigs of parsley, a few 
slices ot carrot and one-fourth a oreen 



three tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan, 
and saute the livers in the hot butter, turn- 
ing and tossing them, to avoid over cooking 
on any side; let cook five or six minutes. 




Braised Lettuce with Green Peas 

then drain on a sieve. Put the livers in a 
saucepan with a cup or more of rich, highly 
flavored stock; add salt and cayenne, and 
two tablespoonfuls of sherry wine; let sim- 
mer six minutes, then add the drained cu- 
cumbers, and, when all are very hot, serve 
on rounds or squares of buttered toast. If 
desired, keep the cucumbers hot, and, 
before adding them, thicken the sauce 
with the yolks of two eggs, beaten and 
diluted with half a cup of cream. Add 
also a teaspoonful of lemon juice and a 
little fine-chopped parsley. 




Two Loaves cf Entire Wheat Bread 



pepper pod, until they are tender. Free Braised Lettuce with Green Peas 
one pound of chicken livers from the gall 

bags; cut the livers in halves, then season Remove the outer, imperfect leaves from 

them with salt and pepper. Melt two or five heads of tender lettuce and set these. 



So 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL-MAGAZINE 



heads downward, in a pan of water to which 
a tablespoonful of salt has been added; in 
half an hour drain and set to cook in boil- 



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French Toast with SHced Peaches 

ing water to cover; let cook five minutes, 
then drain and blanch in cold water, i. e. , 
cover with cold water, drain and press out 
the water. Put two tablespoonfuls of salt 
pork, cut in tiny bits, into an agate baking 
pan, and on these lay the blanched heads 
of lettuce; add two or three sprigs of parsley, 
half an onion into which three cloves have 
been pressed, half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
cup of broth, half a cup of tomato juice 
(without pulp), and over the top of the 
lettuce a sprinkling of bits of salt pork; 
cover the dish and let cookhalf an hour in 
a moderate oven. Remove the lettuce to 
a hot serving- dish. Have ready five fancy- 
shaped pieces of bread, cut from five slices 
of bread, spread them with butter on both 



center about a cup and a half of fresh 
peas, boiled and seasoned with salt, black 
pepper and plenty of butter. 

Braised Lettuce on 

Toast 

Prepare and cook the let- 
tuce as above, omitting the 
tomato and using water for 
all or a part of the liquid — 
do not omit the onion with 
the cloves — this combina- 
tion with the lettuce pro- 
duces a dish closely re- 
sembling asparagus in flavor. 
Set the heads of cooked let- 
tuce on squares or rounds 
of buttered toast. Thicken the liquid with 
two tablespoonfuls ?f flour, cooked in two 
tablespoonfuls o butter, and pour over the 
whole. Other sauces used for asparagus, 
as Hollandaise, Bernaise, moussehne, are 
appropriate with the dish. 

Green Peas Stewed with Lettuce 

Have ready a quart of fresh peas, 
and a head of lettuce with leaves washed 
as for the table. Dispose the perfect 
lettuce leaves in a pile and with a sharp 
knife shred coarsely. Put the shredded 
lettuce and the peas over the fire in 
boiling water barely to cover the whole; 
add a peeled onion and a branch or two 
of parsley; cover and let boil vigorously 




Ahiiond Crisps, Madelines, Modern Style. Angel Cakelets, Chocolate Icing 



sides and let brown in the oven. Dispose 
the lettuce and croutons, alternately, in 
crown shape, on the dish. Pour into the 



about twenty-five minutes, when the peas 
should be tender. Remove the onion and 
parsley. Cream one-fourth a cup of but- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



8i 



ter and beat into it a teaspoonful of salt, 

one-fourth a teaspoonful of black pepper 

and one-fourth a cup of flour; dilute this 

with a little of the hot hquid from the peas, 

then return the whole to the 

dish of peas and let simmer 

about six minutes; add more 

salt and pepper, if needed, 

and stir in two or three 

tablespoonfuls of butter. 

Turn mto a hot vegetable 

dish and garnish the edge 

with croutons of Dread, or 

diamonds of puff-paste. 

Stewed Tomatoes and Corn, Mex- 
ican Style 
Peel six tomatoes. Cut them in quarters 
and press out all or a part of the seeds. 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a granite 
pan; add a sweet, green or red, pepper, 
chopped fine, and let cook without brown- 
ing. Then add the tomato and about a 
teaspoonful of salt, and let cook until well 
heated through. Then add one pint of 
hot, fresh-boiled corn, cut from the cob. 
Add a tablespoonful or two of butter and 
more salt, if needed, and serve at once. 

Creamed Corn Au Gratin 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter. Cook 
in it one-fourth a cup of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a dash of black pep- 
per, then stir in one cup and 
a half of rich milk. Cook 
and stir until the sauce boils, 
then stir in one pint of green 
corn cut from the cob, let 
boil once, and turn into a 
baking dish. Cover the top 
with three-fourths a cup of 
cracker crumbs mixed with 
one-third a cup of melted 
butter, and let bake ten or 
fifteen minutes. 

Two Loaves of Entire 
Wheat Bread 

To two cups of scalded-and-cooled milk, 
or half milk and half water, add a yeast 



cake, softened in half a cup of lukewarm 
milk or water, one teaspoonful of salt, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Then stir in six or 




Charlotte Russe for Two 

seven cups ol flour, white and entire 
wheat, half and half, turn on to a board 
dredged with flour, and knead until smooth 
and elastic. Then cover, and set aside in 
a warm place until doubled in bulk. Cut 
down, shape into loaves, and, when again 
nearly doubled in bulk (about ons-hour), 
bake about one hour. Mix the bread 
rather stiff, and a spongy bread will 
result. 

Rye Flour Muffins 
Pass through a sieve together, one cup, 
each, of pastry and rye flour, four level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and one-fourth a cup of 
sugar. Beat one egg; add one cup of rich 
milk, and stir into the dry ingredients with 




Peach Ice Cream for Two 

three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
Bake in a well buttered muflin pan about 
twenty-five minutes. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



French Toast with SUced Peaches 

Cut as many slices of bread as there are 
people to be served; stamp out the slices 
into rounds or cut in squares, discarding 
the crust. For six rounds, beat an egg and 
add to it one-fourth a cup of milk, and a 
few grains of salt. Put the prepared bread 
into the Qgg mixture, and let stand until 
the whole has been taken up by the bread. 
Have ready butter melted in a frying pan, 
and in this cook the bread to a golden 
brown on both sides. Serve with sliced- 
and-sugared peaches above each slice. 
Soft, mellow peaches are needed. Harder 
peaches cooked in syrup may be used, the 
syrup serving as a sauce. 

Ahiiond Crisps 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream and 
gradually beat in one cup of powdered 
sugar. Reserve half the white of an egg 
on a saucer to use in glazing the top of the 
cakes; beat the rest of this egg and a whole 
egg until light; add to the butter and sugar 



and oval shape — decorate with halves of 
blanched almonds, brush over with white 
of egg; dredge with sugar or not, and bake 
in a quick oven. 

MadeHnes, Modern Style 

Prepare double the recipe of the cake 
mixture for "Madelines," given in the 
April, 1907, number of this magazine. 
Bake this in two pans, to secure layers 
about half an inch thick when baked. 
Spread currant j elly upon one layer, invert- 
ed, and press the other layer upon it. Cut 
into strips, and these into small squares 
and rounds about an inch and a half across, 
— cover with chocolate frosting and finish 
with half a blanched almond or with white 
frosting and part of a candied cherry. 

Charlotte Russe for Two 

Beat half a cup of double cream solid to 
the bottom of the bowl. Soften half a level 
tablespoonful of gelatine in one-fourth a 
cup of cold water, then pour over it one 
cup of thin cream, scalded over hot water; 




Canton Salad 



with two tablespoonfuls of milk and two 
cups of flour. Flavor with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla. A little more flour may be needed; 
the dough should be stiff enough to hold its 
shape when baked. It should not spread 
in the pan. Cut the dough into rounds 
with a large-sized, French pattie cutter, then 
cut each cake again to divide into a crescent 



stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then add 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla extract, or three tablespoon- 
fuls of sherry wine (both may be used), 
and set the dish in ice and water; stir con- 
stantly until the mixture begins to thicken, 
then gradually cut and fold the cream into 
it. Have ready two glass cups and some 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



83 



lady fingers, trimmed to the height of the 
cups or a Httle higher. Set a lady finger 
in a cup, then put in a teaspoonful of the 
mixture to hold it in place, and continue 
until all the lady fingers are set in place, 
then finish filling the cups. The lady fin- 
gers may be set close together or a little 
distance apart. Put a bit of jelly on the 
top of the cream. 

Canton Salad 

Select six, fine-flavored, red apples. 
Polish the apples and cut a slice about half 
an inch thick from the top of each. Scoop 
or cut out the pulp to leave shells half an 
inch thick. Rub the inside of each with 
the cut side of half a lemon, to keep the 
pulp from discoloring and set, cut side 
down, in a cool place until ready to use. 
From the pulp taken from the apples cut 
enough cubes, one-fourth an inch in diam- 
eter, to make one pint. To this add half a 
pound of pecan nut meats broken in pieces, 
and one-fourth a poundofcrystallized or pre- 
served ginger, cut into tiny bits or chopped. 
Mix with these a mayonnaise or boiled dress- 
ing made light with whipped cream and use 
to fill the shells, rounding the mixture 
above the top. Serve on lettuce leaves. 

Boiled Dressing for Canton Salad' 

Beat the yolks of five eggs until thick and 
light; add one-fourth a cup of butter, one 
teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of mus- 
tard, one teaspoonful of powdered sugar, the 
juice of a lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, and cook, stirring constantly, over 
hot water until the mixture thickens. When 
cold and ready to use, add a cup of heavy 
cream beaten soHd. 

Peach Mangoes. (Mrs. Frank Her- 

brick) 

Use the large freestone peaches. Peel 
with a silver knife, taking off the thinest 
peeling possible. Cut in halves and take 
out the stone. Fill the cavity with bran- 
died cherries. Sew or tie corresponding 
halves together, and drop into a syrup made 
as follows: — To one quart of vinegar add 



three pints of sugar; spices in the propor- 
tion of two ounces, each, of cloves and stick 
cinnamon may be tied in a musHn bag and 
boiled with the syrup. Let the fruit cook 
very gently until tender, set in jars, and 
pour over them the boiling syrup. If pre- 
ferred, the peaches maybe set in ajar, and 
the boiling, spiced syrup poured over them; 
cover closely, and let stand over night, then 
drain off the syrup, reheat and pour over 
the peaches; — repeat this process three or 
four times, when the peaches will be ready 
to store. A sweet ''chow-chow" filling 
may replace the cherries. 

Peach Mangoes (with Preserved 

Ginger) 

Cut preserved ginger into thin slices; add 
to one cup of ginger a teaspoonful of grated 
horseradish, a tablespoonful, each, of black 
and white mustard seed, a teaspoonful of 
celery seed, and half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper seed. Use this mixture as a filling 
for the peaches, and finish as above. 

Peach Ice Cream for Two 

Remove the skin and stones from four or 
five peaches, then press the pulp through a 
ricer. Into three-fourths a cup of pulp 
stir three-fourths a cup of sugar and a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice. Turn this 
into the can of a freezer, packed with ice 
and salt for freezing, then turn in one cup 
and a half of thin cream and freeze as 
usual. 

Peach Sherbet 

Cut peaches in halves, without paring, 
to remove the stones; crack these and save 
the kernels. Put the kernels into a quart 
of water and let cook twenty minutes; 
strain off the water and add enough more 
to restore that lost by evaporation during 
the cooking; add two cups of sugar and let 
boil twenty minutes; add half a teaspoonful 
of gelatine softened in cold water and 
strain. When cold add the juice of a 
lemon and a pint of peach-pulp (pared 
peaches pressed through a ricer or sieve), 
and freeze as usual. 



Menus for Family of Two (August) 



What and how great the virtue and the art 
To live on little with a cheerful heart. — Pope. 



Breakfast 

Muskmelon cut in Halves. 

Eggs Poached in Milk. 

Dry Toast. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Broiled Lamb Chops. 

Braised Lettuce on Toast. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Peach Ice Cream. 

Supper 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Tea. 



Breakfast 

Muskmelon Cut in Halves. 

Dried Beef in Cream Sauce. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Parker House Rolls. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Lettuce-and-Salmon Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Dinner 

Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin. 

Boiled Potatoes. Hot Brown Sauce. 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce-and-Celery Hearts. 

Gelatine Blanc-Mange, Sliced Peaches. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Gluten Grits, Cream. 
Broiled Salt Mackerel. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Rye Flour Rolls. 
Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Dried Beef, Frizzled. 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Bread and Butter. 

Sliced Peaches. Cookies. 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak, Panned. 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk. Celery. 

Individual Blackberry Shortcakes. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Bartlet Pears. 

Cold Veal Loaf, 

Delmonico Potatoes. 

Cereal Griddle Cakes. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Poached Egg on Toast. 

Blanc- Mange (left over), 

Sugar, Cream. 

Dinner 

Slice of Beef Tenderioin, Broiled. 

Boiled Corn. 

Creamed Celery. 

Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Charlotte Russe. 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Berries. 


Melon. 




French Omelet. 


Corned Beef Hash. 




Saratoga Potatoes. 


Green Com Fritters. 




Rye Muffins, Toasted. 


Bread and Butter. 




Coffee. 


Coffee. 




Luncheon for One 


Luncheon for One 


N 

^ 


Hot Bacon Sandwich. 


Cold Corned Beef. Baked Potato. 


o 
> 


Cup of Cereal Coffee. 


Sliced Tomato. 


Stewed Pears. 


Bread and Butter. 


Dinner 


Tea. 




Slice of Salmon, Baked. Egg Sauce. 


Dinner 




Baked Potatoes. 


Cream-of-Tomato Soup. 




Cucumbers, French Dressing. 


Broiled Sword Fish. 




Cornstarch Pudding, 


Boiled Baets. Scalloped Potatoes.^ 




Red Raspberry Sauce. 


Apple Tapioca Pudding. Cream. 




Half Cups of Coffee. 


Half Cups of Coffee. 




Breakfast Luncheon for One Dinner 




Broiled Calf's Liver Curried Sword Fish. Cream-of-Celery Soup 




with Bacon. Yeast Rolls. Braised Calf's Liver. 




White Hashed Potatoes. Butter. Turnips, Carrots and Potatoes. 




Hot, Baked Apple Sauce. Apple-and-C 

Coffee T 


f^lprv c^Qlorl Lettuce Salad, 
elery balad. Apricot Omelet. 
2a Half Cups of Coffee. 





Menus for a Week in September 

The food rupply would be probably far belter selected, varied and cooked, if the daily supervision were allotted definitely 
to one who had beei trained for the purpose, and chosen because of capacity for the office. — Dukes. 



Breakfast 

Grapes, 

Hashed Veal on Toast. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

Doughnuts. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Broiled Chickens. Mashed Potatoes. 

Stuffed Cucumbers. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Peach Ice Cream. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Eggs Scrambled with Deviled Ham. 

Olives. Toasted Crackers 

Fig Cake. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Boiled Rice, Baked Sweet Apples. 

French Omelet. 

Yeast Rolls (Rye Meal, etc.) 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Creamed Corn au Gratin. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Bread and Butter. 

Dutch Apple Cake. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Late Pea Soup. 

Slices of Salmon, Baked. 

Buttered Potato Balls. 

Braised Lettuce, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Peach Sherbet. 

Velvet Sponge Cake. Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Egg-O-See, Cream. 

Hot Boiled Ham 

(Cooked in Fireless Cooker). 

Radishes, Mashed Potato Cakes. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. 

Early Apples, Baked. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Succotash. 

Bread and Butter. 

Caramel Junket. 

Fig Cake. Tea. 

Dinner 

Round Steak en Casserole. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Sliced Peaches, Cream. Cookies. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Grape-nuts. Sliced Peaches, Cream. 

Curry of Salmon. French Fried Potatoes. 

Rye Flour Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Fried Oysters. Cole Slaw. 

Boston Bread Bread. 

Baking Powder Biscuit (Entire Wheat). 

Blackberry Pie. 

Dinner 

Puree of Cucumbers, Queen Style. 

Roast Veal, Bread Dressing. 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Stewed Tomatoes and Corn, Mexican Style. 

Brook Cress Salad. 

Chocolate Frappe. 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Grapes. 


Melons. 




Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 


Barley Crystals, Cream. 




Stewed Potatoes. 


Eggs Poached in Green Peppers or in Cups. 




Sliced Tomatoes. 


Waffles. 




Rice Griddle Cakes. Coffee. 


Coffee. 


^ 

2 


Luncheon 


Luncheon 


Green Corn on the Cob. 


Hominy Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 


^ 


Deviled Crab Meat in Shells. 


Baked Apple Dumpling. 


> 


Bread and Butter. 


Coffee. 


< 


Apple Pie. Cream Cheese. Tea. 


Dinner 




Dinner 


Broiled Sword Fish, Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 




Broiled Sirloin Steak. 


Mashed Potatoes. 




Baked Sweet Potatoes. 


Stewed Cucumbers in Bechamel Sauce. 




Scalloped Tomatoes and Onions. Celery. 


Stringless Beans. Lettuce. 




Delmonico Pudding with Peaches. 


French Toast with Sliced Peaches. 




Half Cups of Coffee. 


Coffee. 




Breakfast Luncheon Dinner 




Grapes. Baked Beans, N. Y. Style. Braised Calf's Liver with Vegetables. 




Broiled Lamb Chops. Boiled Beets. Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 
'""tSMu'Ir'"'^- B°^'°" Brown Bread. l^o^ge L"u"u; pSSt 




Maple or Caramel Syrup. Coffee Jelly, Wme or Lemon Sauce. 




Coffee. Whippec 


i Creant. Half Cups of Coffee. | 





Menus for September Weddings 

{^o guests) 

5 O'clock p. M. 
I 

Angel and Sunshine Cakes. 
Sliced Peaches with Whipped Cream or Peach Ice Cream. Fruit Punch. 

II 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad, Olives. 

Yeast Rolls. Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Peach Sherbet with Whipped Cream (in cups) or 

Assorted Fruits in Cups, Peach Sherbet Above. 

Frosted White Cake, Cut in Diamonds. Waldorf Triangles. 

Salted Almonds. Crystallized Mint Leaves. Fruit Punch. 



Breakfast 8 a. m. 
I 

Peach-and-Pineapple Cocktail. 

Creamed Halibut in Shells or Ramequins. 

Brook Cress with Cucumbers, French Dressing. 

Breaded Lamb Chops, Fried. 

Potatoes Maitr^ d' Hotel. Late Peas. 

CAFfe Parfait in Glasses. Lady Fingers. Macaroons. 

Parker House Rolls and Coffee Throughout the Meal. 

II 

Fillets of Fish, Fried. Creamed Potatoes. 

Lettuce and Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Rounds from Beef Tenderloin, Broiled, Mushroom Sauce. 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Brandied Peaches, or 

Sliced Peaches, Sugar and Cream, or Peach Ice Cream. 

Parker House Rolls and Coffee Throughout the Meal. 

Ill 

Halves of Small Muskmelons filled with Sliced Peaches, Sugared. 

Fish Timbales or Truffled Fish, Hollandaise Sauce. Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style 

Cucumbers with Olives, French Dressing. 
Broiled or Fried Chicken. Sweet Corn Custard. Sliced Tomatoe'- Mayonnaise Dressing. 
Meringue Cases with Whipped Cream, or Tiny Cream Cakes, Whipped Cream Filling. 

Strawberry Preserves. 
Salad Rolls and Coffee Throughout the Meal. 



Menus for Late Summer Picnics 

Scandinavian Hors d' ceuvre as Salad. Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Apple "Turnovers " Cream Cheese. Hot Coffee. 

II 

Hot, Squizzled Bacon. Potatoes and Corn Baked in^ Hot Ashes. 

Deviled Ham Sandwiches. 

Fig Cake. Hot Cocoa. 

Ill 

Eggs Baked in Hot Ashes. Sardines, Lemon Quarters. Buttered Yeast Biscuit. 

Brownies. Lemonade. 

IV 

Cold Roast Chicken. Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. New Pickles. Hot Coffee. 

Cake with Maple Frosting. 

V 

Potato Salad. Sliced Ham Sandwiches. 

Buttered Rolls. Preserved Strawberry Tarts. Cold Water. 

VI 

Cold Boiled Tongue, Sliced Thin. Saratoga Potato Chips. Olives. Pickles. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. Mayonnaise of Apples and Nuts. Wafers. 

Peaches and Melons. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By JANET M. HILL 



I 



T is the wise woman who makes use 
of what she has." The fear of a 
failure in crops is prevalent. AVe 
hope the outcome will be more favorable 
than the prolonged cold of planting time 
would lead us to expect. In this populous 
country the failure of a wheat, potato or 
com crop could not easily be made good — 
even with increased expenditure of money. 
But in the want of abundance of these 
standard food stuffs, we would feel very 
keenly the additional loss of our wonted 
supply of green vegetables. Peas, string 
beans, celery, lettuce, squash, cauliflower 
or some member of the cabbage family are 
now found upon our tables, either fresh or 
canned, throughout the year, and these pro- 
vide an inexpensive means of varying our 
bills of fare. In some localities the supply 
of these articles will be meager, and ito 
single good vegetable should be allowed to 
run to waste. If one can have but few 
varieties, learn to prepare these in as many 
ways as possible. With patience, even this 
year, in which spring seems to have been 
omitted from the calendar — with workable 
land one might have many varieties of veg- 
etables. A garden, whether it be for roses, 
or devoted to the esculents prized in the 
kitchen, should be something near and dear 
to a woman's heart. If she does not work 
in it with her own hands, she may lengthen 
her days by wandering through it and 
watching the daily growth. With a more 
general return to country life, gardens will 



take on a significance long denied them save 
by the very rich and the very poor. 



Take two of the most common' and 
plentiful of our summer vegetables, lettuce 
and cucumbers, how many of us ever serve 
them save as salads ? We are saying noth- 
ing against such service, though a learned 
and witty savant and epicure has directed 
us, after carefully preparing the cucumber 
for salad, finally to throw it out of the win- 
dow. But as cooked vegetables, we wish 
to bring these two products of the kitchen 
garden to your notice. From a spirit of 
sheer conservatism, and a lack of imagina- 
tion, we allow whole rows of choice heads 
of lettuce to run to waste. Cook tender 
heads of lettuce v.ith an onion, into which 
two or three cloves have been pressed, and 
a dish closely resembling in flavor the 
choicest asparagus of early June is yours. 
A white broth may be used as the Hquid in 
which the cooking is done, but boiling water 
— save in point of nutrition — will give 
equally as good results. The liquid, thick- 
ened with butter and flour, creamed or 
cooked together, gives the sauce. As with 
asparagus, melted, drawn or black butter, 
HoUandaise, mousseline or Bechamel sauce 
may give variety to the service. Toast or 
croutons, fresh from the oven, garnish and 
give crispness to the dish. Having once 
tried this dish — (for an exact formula see 
page 79), cooked lettuce will appear again 
and again upon your table. You may try 



88 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



it with peas. It will grace a soup; and 
cream of lettuce with tiny egg balls in each 
plate will henceforth appeal to you as the 
most delicious of all delicate soups. 

Tender lettuce, fresh and crisp, is not 
difficult of digestion; though this fact can- 
not be made an excuse for the cooking of 
lettuce, certainly the digestibility of cucum- 
bers is enhanced by cooking. Baked in the 
pan with meat and basted with the dripping 
gives a browned form of this dish; or, if 
you will, keep both vegetable and sauce — 
for a sauce is needed — of a color more in 
accord with the natural dehcate color and 
texture of the vegetable. But no matter how 
you dress the vegetable, if it be well done, 
pleasure awaits you. 



At this season we should revel in the 
luscious, mellow, bloom-covered peach — 
a fruit of such delicate texture that it dis- 
agrees with no one, and is aptly called " the 
children's fruit." The illusive flavor of the 
peach is not heightened by cooking; only 
fruit unmellowed by the sun should be so 
treated. For eating, a peach has one su- 
preme moment, when it is at its best, juicy 
and with no suggestion of mealiness. Happy 



is he who can pluck it at that instant from 
the parent tree, and quickly make it his 
own. Still, the fruit bears transportation 
comparatively well, and while its short sea- 
son lasts, we may well be prodigal in its use. 
Peaches and cream are quite as delectable 
as strawberries and cream, and the combi- 
nation is more hygienic. The flavor of 
peaches combines well with that of oranges, 
pineapples, bananas and muskmelons. Cher- 
ries also blend with peaches, and kirsch or 
maraschino cordials made with cherries are 
often used to ''give point" to cocktails 
and other dishes in which peaches predom- 
inate. If wine be objectionable, a few 
peach kernels, cooked in the water after- 
wards to be used in making syrup for sweet- 
ening the dish, may be substituted. 

Peach sherbet and ice cream made from 
canned peaches hold but scant resemblance 
to the same dishes prepared from the fresh 
fruit. For winter use in desserts, the 
apricot, which has a more pronounced 
flavor, well retained during cooking, is pref- 
erable. In brandied peaches and peach 
mangoes, the loss of fresh fruit flavor is 
made good by the flavors and spices that 
are added. 



German Ways of Doing Things 

By JULIA DA VIS CHANDLER 



FOR breakfast, instead of plates, long 
tiles are made in Germany, some- 
thing like a painter's palette made 
square. Instead of a thumb hole there is 
only a small hole in the middle of one end 
to hang this tile on a hook, or peg. These 
tiles are thick and glazed with white, like 
any stoneware. One seen was blue and 
white, and one red in pretty flowing de- 
signs. 

They are used for bread and butter, 
served with a cup of cofl"ee. Doubtless, in 
Germany they are taken to the garden on 
bright mornings. Here they ornament a 
city dining-room, and serve for curios. It 
is said that old gentlemen, used to them, 
wouM feel quite * * put out ' ' if given a round 



plate instead of this tile, with a good piece 
of butter on it, and a couple of fresh rolls 
for breakfast daily. 

German ways of setting the table are at 
variance with those of other countries; the 
knives for dinner parties are arranged out 
at an angle into the middle of the table. 
Knives and forks are laid obliquely to the 
plate with the tips touching it. Finger 
bowls have spoons in them by which to 
dip the water over the fingers; this idea is 
not out of the way. 

Quite gaudy glass ware for wine is shown, 
purple, blue, orange and yellow, with de- 
canters to match. 

A bunch of violets is on every plate, at 
the beginning of a formal dinner. 



Cookery for Young Housekeepers 



By JANE 2 M. HILL 

LESSON V 

Tissue Builders Continued 

Eggs: (Composition) 



THE Qg^ is another article of food 
that contains a goodly proportion of 
proteid, which is principally in the 
form of albumin. The white of the ^gg 
contains a higher proportion of albumin 
than does the yolk, while the yolk contains 
more fat than does the white. The other 
compounds are water and mineral matter. 
Three-fourths of an egg is water. The one 
food principle lacking is carbohydrate; thus 
foods rich in this principle are the ones to 
be combined with eggs to make a meal 
complete. 

The shell of the tgg is porous; on keep- 
ing, the water of the egg in composition 
evaporates, air enters to occupy the vacant 
place, and the ^gg soon (comparatively) 
spoils. 

How TO Tell the Age of an Egg 

Placed in the water, the ^gg, if fresh, will 
remain resting at the bottom of the vessel; 
if not quite fresh, it will rest with the big 
end raised higher than the small end, and 
the higher the big end is raised the older 
is the ^gg. 

The reason why: As an old egg gets 
older, the water contained in the white of 
the ^gg evaporates, and this causes the 
empty space at the thick end of every ^gg 



to become enlarged. The larger that empty 
space becomes the more the &gg rises in 
the water, 'till in course of time it floats. — 




(G.J. Hutchiiis in ^^ Food a7id Cookery,''^ 
London. ) 

How TO Break Eggs in Cooking 

To break an ^gg, take it in the right 
hand and crack the shell by striking it, — 
neir the centre of one side, — upon the 
edge of a bowl; put the thumbs together at 
the crack, and gently break the shell apart. 
Take care to strike the ^gg only just enough 



90 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



to crack the shell. The shell of an egg, 
held in the left hand, may be broken by 
strikmg it sharply with a knife held in the 
right hand. 

How TO Separate the Yolk from the 
White 

Hold the egg lengthwise in the hand, 
over a bowl, while breaking the shell apart; 
turn the contents back and forth several 
times, keeping the yolk in one of the half 
shells, and letting the white slip over the 
edge into the bowl. 

How to Stir, Beat, and Fold Ingre- 
dients 

If we put one or more articles, as flour, 
flour and egg, or flour, milk and egg into 
a bowl and move a utensil, like a spoon or 
fork, steadily round and round in the mass, 
each time in a widening circle, we call the 
process Stirring. 

When we carry the utensil swiftly through 
a mass containing albumin or gluten in such 
a manner that a large portion is turned over 
at each stroke, a quantity of air, in minute 
bubbles, is entangled in the elastic proteid, 
thus making the mass very light. We call 
this process Beating. 

After an egg, and particularly the white 
of an egg, is beaten, we may wish to incor- 
porate it into other ingredients without loss 
of the air that has been beaten into it. To 
do this, turn the egg into the dish of in- 
gredients, put in a spoon edgewise, turn it 
and lift up the ingredients and egg, and 
turn them over; repeat this until the mass 
is evenly blended together. We call this 
Folding. The principle articles that we wish 
to fold into others are the whites of eggs 
beaten dry, and heavy cream beaten solid. 

Beating Eggs 

Whites of eggs alone may be beaten more 
firm than whites and yolks together, or 
yolks alone. Often if a small portion of 
yolk be left in a bowl containing several 
whites, it will be impossible to beat the 
mass to a firm consistency. 

Slightly Beaten Eggs. Eggs are slightly 
beaten when a full spoonful can be taken up. 



Well Beaten Yolks. Yolks are 



^ell 



beaten ' ' when they are light, thick and 
lemon-colored. 

Whites Beaten Dry. Whites are beaten 
dry when the mass does not slip from the 
dish turned upside down. 

Utensils for Beathig Eggs. A fork, 
whisk, perforated spoon, or Dover egg 
beater are the utensils commonly used in 
beating eggs. When whites of eggs are 
beaten dry, the mass will be larger, 
beaten with one of the first three utensils, 
but it will take a longer time to do the work 
than with the Dover egg beater. 

Cooking Eggs 

In our first lesson we noted that albumin 
was toughened by a high degree of heat. 
If you set a saucepan of cold water over the 
fire, put in a thermometer, and then break 
an egg into the water, you can note how 
the consistency of the egg changes as the 
water heats. As a study in the cooking of 
eggs, it might be worth while to cook sev- 
eral eggs, on different occasions, transfer- 
ring them from the water, with a skimmer, 
to a slice of toast, when the thermometer 
registers 134°, 160*", 180*' and 212° re- 
spectively. As far as solubility has a bear- 
ing on the subject, a raw egg is more di- 
gestible than one that has been cooked ; 
but, for other reasons, people in general 
prefer to have the albumin in eggs slightly 
coagulated by heat. 

Eggs Cooked in Shell, Soft, Medium, 
Etc. 

( 1 ) Take a granite ware saucepan, hold- 
ing rather more than one quart. In it heat 
one quart of water to the boiling point, 
remove the saucepan from the fire, and 
lower an egg into it, cover closely and let it 
stand six minutes, for soft-cooked, and eight 
minutes, for medium-cooked eggs. With 
two eggs let stand eight minutes, for soft- 
cooked, ten minutes, for medium-cooked, 
and half an hour, if the eggs are to be used 
in salads, for a garnish, etc. 

(2) Take two saucepans, the same as 
above. Heat the water in each to the boil- 
ing point, remove from the fire, and lower 



COOKERY FOR YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS 



91 



into one an egg from a refrigerator, and 
into the other an egg from the warm room; 
cook as before, six minutes, then compare 
the consistency of the two eggs. Why this 
difference ? 

(3) In a similar manner, we could learn 
that, in order to have uniform results, the 
conditions must not vary; i. e., the kind of 
saucepan, number of eggs in a saucepan, 
the quantity of water, as well as the tem- 
perature of the eggs, must be the same 
each time. 

POACHED EGGS, OR EGGS RE- 
MOVED FROM THE SHELL, AND 
COOKED WITH WHITE AND 
YOLK DISTINCT AND SEPARATE 

Poached Eggs on Toast 

Rub over the bottom of the frying pan, 
with a bit of butter, and pour in about a 
pint of boiling water; add half a teaspoonful 
of salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Let 
this stand where the water will keep hot, 
but not boil. Break in two eggs, being care- 
ful to strike the shell only enough to crack 
it without disturbing the yolk. Let stand, 
until the eggs are set on the bottom, then 
loosen the egg from the pan, by carefully 
pushing beneath it a spatula or griddle-cake 
turner, to avoid too much cooking on the 
bottom, then let stand until delicately 
cooked throughout. Have ready two slices 
of bread, toasted to a golden brown. Wet 
the edge of each slice in salted, boiling 
water, set these upon the plates, made 
warm, dot with bits of butter, and with 
a skimmer remove the eggs from the pan 
to the toast. Add a bit of parsley or cress, 
and if desired a dash of black pepper to 
each, and place at once upon the table. 

Eggs Poached in Cream 
Set a small frying pan, containing a scant 
cup of thin cream into a dish of boihng 
water. When the cream shows tiny bub- 
bles at the edge, add one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt ard break in two fresh eggs. 
When the white becomes set a little, sep- 
arate the eggs from the pan with a spatula, 
and when they are set throughout, (this 



can be told by noting the condition of the 
eggs when the pan is shaken), remove them 
to two rounds of toast; pour the cream over 
the whole, and set at once upon the table. 

Eggs ''Poached " in Fat or Fried 

When we remember the low temperature 
at which the albumin in egg is coagulated, 
it is evident that the fat in which an egg is 
to be cooked need not be very hot. Most 
housekeepers, whether young or old, fry 
eggs in too hot fat. Fat that sputters, when 
an egg is broken into it, is much too hot for 
the purpose. Olive oil, as it does not burn 
until heated to a very high temperature, is 
the best possible medium for frying pur- 
poses. Care must be exercised in its use, 
for there is no change in its appearance 
even when hot enough to brown any article 
put into it. Fat tried out, at a low degree 
of heat, from bacon, ham or salt pork, care- 
fully poured from the sediment in the pan, 
is a particularly good medium for frying 
eggs. Break the eggs into the fat, and cook 
in the same manner as when poaching in 
water. If the fat does not cover the eggs, 
dip it over them with a tablespoon. If the 
fat used in this cooking be at the proper 
temperature, and has never been raised to 
too high a degree of heat, the eggs will be 
discolored no more than when poached in 
water. Serve fried eggs with bacon, ham, 
spinach, etc. 

EGGS COOKED with) scrambled 
WHITE AND YOLK V 



MIXED 






Omelet 



French 
Puffy 



Scrambled Eggs, Reformed Style 

Turn four tablespoonfuls of milk or thin 
cream into an agate frying pan, and add 
half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat four eggs 
with a silver fork, just enough to break the 
yolk thoroughly. Then turn the egg into the 
hot milk. Cook over a gentle fire, stirring 
as the egg thickens, and adding, now and 
then, a bit of butter, until two tablespoon- 
fuls have been used. When lightly set, turn 
on to a hot serving dish, and serve at once. 

Scrambled Eggs with Variations 
Cooked ingredients, as chicken, ham, 



92 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



smoked tongue, sardines or anchovies, 
chopped or cut in bits, peas, asparagus tips, 
green or red peppers, parsley, (the two 
latter chopped fine), small cubes of fried 
bread, and small cubes of hot bacon, may be 
added to eggs before scrambling. Peppers 
are usually cooked in butter until softened, 
before being added to the eggs. 

General Varieties of Omelet 

Of omelets there are two general varieties 
— French and puffy — these are distin- 
guished by the manipulation of the eggs, 
both in beating and in cooking. In the 
French omelet, the eggs are beaten simply 
to mix well the whites and yolks, no attempt 
being made to secure lightness; in the puffy 
omelet, all the air possible is beaten into the 
eggs, and the cooking is conducted in a 
manner to retain the air if possible to the 
moment of eating. For a particularly tender 
omelet use a greater number of yolks than 
of whites. 

French Omelet for Two 

Beat two whole eggs and two yolks until 
a full spoonful can be taken up; add three 
tablespoon fuls of cold water, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper, 
and beat until all are evenly blended to- 
gether. If gas be the fuel, have the ' ' hd " 
over the flame evenly heated. Melt a 
tablespoonful of butter in the hot, omelet 
pan, and let it run over the entire surface; 
turn in the egg mixture, and shake the pan 
back and forth upon the lid. The mixture 
should set, and slide back and forth upon 
the smooth surface of the pan, and give 
place for the unset mixture to run down on 
to the pan. To insure this, raise the side 
of the pan next the handle, as the pan is 
pushed forward, and raise the opposite side 
as the pan is brought back. When the 
mixture is creamy throughout, begin with 
the side next the handle, and roll the 
omelet; when well rolled, let stand an in- 
stant to color the bottom slightly, then turn 
on to a hot dish. A bit of butter, added at 
the last moment, will aid in giving color to 
the omelet. 

Puffy Omelet for Two 



Beat the yolks of four eggs until thick 
and lemon-colored; add a dash of pepper, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and three 
tablespoonfuls of water. Beat the whites 
of two eggs until dry, then turn the yolks 
over the whites, and fold the two together. 
Have a tablespoonful of butter melted in 
the omelet pan; turn in the mixture, spread- 
ing it evenly over the pan. Let the pan 
stand, where there is moderate heat, about 
two minutes, then set it into an oven of 
moderate heat, to "set" the egg through- 
out. When a knife or spatula, thrust 
down into the centre of the omelet, can be 
removed without uncooked egg adhering to 
it, the omelet is done. Remove at once 
from the oven; score the centre of the top 
at right angles to the handle of the pan, 
fold at the scoring, and turn on to a hot 
platter. Much beating of eggs — as in the 
puffy omelet — especially if the number of 
yolks does not exceed the number of whites, 
causes dryness in the finished product. 
For this reason, a sauce of some kind im- 
proves a puffy omelet. Half or three-fourths 
a cup of tomato sauce poured around the 
foregoing omelet, after it is turned upon 
the platter, makes it much more acceptable. 

Puffy Omelet with Left Overs 

One-fourth a cup — or even less — of 
cold, cooked peas, string beans, asparagus 
tips, mushrooms, chicken, ham, fish, oys- 
ters, lobster, etc., stirred into cream, 
tomato, or Bechamel sauce, are all ad- 
missible for adding flavor and juiciness, as 
well as bulk, to a puffy omelet. 

Cooking a Puffy Omelet on the Gas 
Range 

On account of the air beaten into the 
eggs, a puffy omelet presents a braver ap- 
pearance than does the French omelet, 
made of the same number of eggs; also the 
' * knack ' ' of making it successfully is easily 
acquired. But if the oven be not h eated for 
some other purpose, it seems wasteful to 
heat the oven. To obviate heating the 
oven, manage in this way. Two stove 
' ' lids ' ' are required. When the omelet is 
set, place the lid over the pan, which should 



WAYS OF ENTERTAINING 



93 



not be too shallow, letting it rest on the 
edge of the pan, then set the other lid over 
the fire with the omelet upon it. Do not 
have the upper ''lid" too hot. 

Questions 

1. The shell of an egg is porous. How 
does this occasion the spoiling of eggs ? 

2. Why are eggs packed with the small 
end downward ? 

3. Why can the freshness of an egg be 
determined by shaking it ? 



4. If tenderness be desired in a pro- 
duct (as doughnuts, cookies, etc.), should 
whites or yolks of eggs predominate in the 
mixture ? Why ? 

5. Why is a greater number of yolks 
than whites preferable in omelets and cus- 
tards ? 

6. How may eggs broken into cups be 
poached in the oven and avci'd over- 
heat? 

7. Can you add uncooked ingredients 
to an omelet ? 



Ways of Entertaining 



Corn Chowder Picnics 

By HARRIET R. HILLYER 

THE habit of informal family picnicking 
is a good one to cultivate. It gives 
the whole family, including the mother, a 
chance to get more out-of-door life. If the 
preparations are not too elaborate, it affords 
real rest and recreation. 

There should be an abundance of simple, 
appetizing food (for everybody is hungry 
out of doors), but not food in great pro- 
fusion. In the suburb of a western town, 
several families have developed a real genius 
along the line of impromptu picnicking. On 
a fine summer day, the gipsy spirit in some 
one of these famihes triumphs over the con- 
ventional three-meal-a-day habit, and word 
is sent around to the other families to meet 
the next day at a certain place, usually for 
supper, or late dinner, so as to make it pos- 
sible for the fathers to come directly from 
their work. One family is asked to furnish 
coffee, another cream and sugar, and the 
initiator says, ''I will furnish the corn 
chowder. ' ' 

For the. rest of the food, each family 
picks up what it has, be it more or less, and 
each individual brings his own soup dish, 
coffee cup, spoons and napkin. Father, 
mother and children are soon seen wending 



their way with baskets, each one carrying 
something. 

The corn-chowder family is usually the 
first to arrive, and before the arrival of the 
others has a fire built and water heating. 
The principle dish is made of green corn, 
in the ear in season, but these inveterate 
picnickers have been known to picnic as late 
as October, or even November, under the 
lea of a hill, with a huge camp fire in front, 
and then the favorite dish is made with 
canned corn. 

The recipe for the chowder is as follows: 
The pulp from a dozen ears of corn, a quart 
of potatoes and one onion, peeled and 
sliced. The onion is fried in salt pork, 
butter, or drippings. A plate is put in the 
bottom of the kettle where the onions are 
fried, as the corn burns easily. Then the 
corn, potatoes and onions are put in in 
layers, each layer seasoned with salt and 
pepper. Enough hot water is then poured 
over to cover the chowder to the depth of 
an inch, and it is cooked gently for half an 
hour. A pint of scalded milk is added, 
and half a pound of spHt Boston crackers. 
The picnickers vary this recipe to suit their 
own convenience. The chowder is usually 
prepared at home, with the exception of 
the milk, which is added over the camp 
fire. The dish is a favorite with the fami- 



94 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



lies mentioned, as it is easily prepared, the 
ingredients are always available, and it is 
substantial and appetizing. 

There are other things, however, which 
these famihes enjoy. The children, and 
sometimes the older ones, romp and play, or 
there is pleasant neighborly visiting. They 
go home with the sunset color in their taces, 
and the sparkle of the blue waters of the 
lake in their eyes, refreshed and invigorated. 
Happy are the people who know how to 
picnic. 

A Pillow Party 

By INEZ REDDING 

A PILLOW party is one of the latest 
methods of raising money for philan- 
thropic purposes. The affair may be held 
in a church vestry, a club hall, or at a pri- 
vate residence. If the church is to benefit, 
the function is usually slated for the church 
vestry, and the accompaniment may be a 
musical and literary entertainment, or an 
old-fashioned sociable, to which the en- 
trance fee is a cushion, or pillow. Such an 
affair could be advertised in the local news- 
paper, or announced in the church calen- 
dar. If it be given to increase the funds 
of a lodge or some similar organization, it 
would naturally be held in the hall of the 
order, and an audience solicited in the same 
way as for a church affair. If it be given 
at a private residence for some pet charity, 
invitations are sent out by the hostess for 
an afternoon tea, with the added request, 
' ' please bring a pillow. ' ' The pillows are 
disposed of at private sale, or at auction. 
Any other article may take the place of the 
pillow, but it is surprising how many pillows 
are turned in by people in sympathy with 
the work, and they usually sell readily at 
fair prices, so that the beneficiaries net a 
much larger sum than when smaller articles 
are asked for as an entrance fee. One con- 
tributes a pillow, small or large, inexpensive 
or elegant, according to her interest in the 
object. A pillow filled with excelsior and 
having a cover made of large handker- 
chiefs is a pillow just as much as its neigh- 
bor, a ribbon- embroidered, silk head rest. 



A Birthday Party 

IN planning a birthday anniversary ob- 
servance for a young girl, it is a pretty 
fad to invite as many young friends as the 
young lady is years of age. Have the deco- 
rations of the table carry out the same idea; 
thus, have ten roses, if the young lady is 
ten years old, or twenty-five pinks, if that 
number corresponds to her age. Have the 
souvenirs carry out the same idea, even if 
they are very inexpensive. Every girl finds 
uses for beauty pins, and a bunch of them 
tied with a bright ribbon would not be in- 
appropriate. If feasible, have the decora- 
tions of the color most often worn by the 
young lady, and selected for the fittings of 
her sleeping apartment. Ask each guest to 
bring an inexpensive present, laying stress 
on the word inexpensive. Say to one girl, 
"please bring a trifling gift suitable for a 
girl one year old," and suggest that the 
next bring one for a girl two years old, and 
so on through the years. If each guest 
enters into the spirit of the affair, one will 
bring a stick of candy in the form of a sachet, 
and another a doll ready to do duty as a 
pincushion. If it will not make the table 
service too long, have as many courses as 
there are guests, and after the dinner an 
equal number of games. 

A Thimble Party 

THIMBLE," written in the corner 
of an otherwise ordinary invitation 
to an '*at home," denotes, not that you 
have received an invitation to an old-fash- 
ioned sewing bee, but that you are bidden 
to an up-to-date function of busy women. 

The function diifers from the ordinary 
' ' at home ' ' only in the fact that the guest 
is expected to remove quickly her hat and 
wrap, take her sewing from her bag, and 
work with the other ladies during the re- 
ception hour. The hostess, on such occa- 
sions, sews continually during the hours 
that her guests are present, her intimate 
friends looking after the guests in every 
way. 

A substantial sideboard luncheon is pro- 
vided in the dining-room, while bon-bons 



WAYS OF ENTERTAINING 



95 



and punch are placed within easy reach of 
the busy workers. 

Usually each guest brings her own work, 
and exchanges ideas with the others present, 
after the fashion common on hotel piazzas, 
but occasionally work is provided by the 
hostess, and the guests are asked to sew 
for some worthy cause. 

In a little country town, last year, a lady 
living near the village had "a. thimble after- 
noon, ' ' on alternate Wednesdays. To this 
all her friends were welcome, informally, 
for a few moments, or the entire time, from 
3 to 6 o'clock. It proved a most popular 
function, and led to the extension of many 
simple hospitalities in the neighborhood. 
Indeed these thimble parties may usher in 
the reign, in that vicinity, of the old-time 
hospitality such as our grandmothers en- 
joyed, when they took their knitting and 
went to '^ sit " with a neighbor through the 
afternoon, their husbands, after doing up 
their chores at an earlier hour than usual, 
appearing in season for supper. 

Kitchen Shower for a Bride 

The invitations read as follows: 

" We 're going to lose from our town 

A Maiden both Winsome and Gay, 

And let us do things up brown, 

To brighten the days of her stay. 

Next Thursday at eignt 

We have set the hour, 

For this fair maid, 

A Kitchen Shower. 

Anything from an apron to a shovel 

Will be useful in her St. Louis hovel. 

We would like your gifts the day before, 

For convenience, leave at B — 's store. 

At Maine Street, Three hundred and eight. 

We '11 expect you on the following date." 

For Miss Mrs. F. W. B 

April 14th, 1907. 

These were sent out one week before the 
day of the shower. We fixed up the dining- 
room as follows: 

An open umbrella was fastened over the 
table, from the ceiling, and from the ribs 
and handle of the umbrella hung the smaller 
things, such as graters, pancake turners and 
spoons. The larger things, such as dish- 
pans, kettles, etc. , were on a table near. 



The table was lighted with white candles, 
in tin candle holders. Supper was served 
from white granite plates, cups, etc. 
The Menu: 

Chicken pie.* 

Potato chips * 

Pickles. 

Olives. 

Bread and butter sandwiches.* 

Ice cream.* 

Coffee. 
Everything marked * was made in shape 
of hearts. 

After supper came the amusements of the 
evening. This was a guessing contest. 
Each guest was provided with a booklet. 
The covers to the booklets were tin hearts, 
(the tinsmith made them), inside of these 
were fastened twelve leaves, (heart shape), 
all held together with brackets! These 
leaves held the questions, one on each. 
On the outside of the covers were the words: 
'^ You will find them in the kitchen." 

The score cards were of pasteboard, cut 
in shape of booklet, with things drawn on 
them, all different, as shovel, bucket, etc. , 
(those cut out of paper will do as well). 
Following is the List — '^ist prize, A 
Kitchen Apron." ^^ 2nd prize. Toy Set 
of Tin Dishes." 

Questions : — Answers — 

1 — My ist. Comes from Brazil, 

My 2nd, Often seen on a window sill. 

I — Coffee pot. 

2 — My I St, A tall and stately tree. 

In my 2nd, A Greek God we see. 

2 — Ash pan. 

3 — My I St, A Carbon rich and rare. 

My 2nd, How the Russians their ships 
did spare. 3 — Coal scuttle. 

4 — My ist, Chief fixture in the Kitchen, 
My 2nd, What many pitch in. 

4 — Stove poker. 

5 — My ist, In summer is especially good, 

My 2nd, Square and made of wood. 

5 — Ice box. 

6 — My 1st, A work each Monday hath, 

My 2nd, What an Englishman calls his 
bath. 6 — Wash tub. 

7 — My ist. What men like for dinner. 

My 2nd, What a man is called who works 
in the timber. 7 — Meat chopper. 

8 — My ist, A letter in the Alphabet, 

My 2nd, Holds the water my ist will get. 

8 — Tea (T) kettle. 
Continued on page gg 




HOME IDE.AS 
AND ECONOMIES 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



Brandy Peaches without Brandy 

IN peach season, fill a Mason jar with 
ding-stone peaches, carefully selected 
and pared. Then fill in all spaces in the jar 
with granulated sugar. Screw on top to jar 
very tight, and bury three feet in the ground 
for six months. 

The peaches will then be ready for use; 
they will be covered with most dehcious 
brandy, and be far richer and better flavored 
than when preserved in the usual way. 



An Easy Way of Making Peach 
Butter 

SCALD, wipe and stone one-half bushel 
of peaches. Then put them through the 
meat chopper. Add granulated sugar in the 
proportion of two measures of pulp to one 
of sugar. Mix well, and boil for two hours, 
stirring occasionally until the last part of 
the cooking, when it needs constant atten- 
tion. 

By putting through the meat grinder, no 
ivater is required and, therefore, much time 
is saved. The making of the above may 
be simplified by putting in bean pots, and 
setting in the oven on ironing days, when 
an occasional stirring is all that is necessary. 

Apples and other fruits may be used in 
the same way. C. E. B. 

Baked Roly- Polys 

I HAVE been experimenting with baked 
roly-polys, because I think them easier 
and quicker to make, as well as more 
wholesome than pies. I make biscuit dough. 



rolling it about half an inch thick, and 
spread the fruit on it, leaving a margin of 
about an inch. I then roll it up like a jelly 
cake, and pinch the dough together at the 
ends, and lengthwise of the roll. 

The first thing I tried this summer was a 
mulberry roll. A new dish with me. I 
used the black mulberries. They were fully 
ripe, and we thought it delicious. I made 
a sauce as follows: 

Half a cup of butter, creamed, one cup 
of powdered sugar, added gradually, and 
one cup of cream or rich milk, very gradu- 
ally added. Set the bowl into hot water, 
and stir until the butter is melted — but no 
longer — when the sauce should be creamy. 
At this stage another cup of rich milk was 
added, as we like plenty of sauce. It was 
sweet enough for mulberries without the 
addition of more sugar. There was enough 
juice from the mulberries to pleasantly per- 
meate the dough without making it heavy. 

I have since tried strawberries and cher- 
ries. There was a great deal of juice with 
the strawberries, but the crust was light, 
and the juice served for sauce with the ad- 
dition of the creamy sauce above men- 
tioned, leaving out the last cup of milk. 
The crust of the cherry roly-poly was a Uttle 
heavy, as the cherries had stood for some 
time after stoning, and I put juice, cherries 
and all on the crust. It is better to have 
the fruit as free from juice as possible. For 
a small family, I make the crust as follows: 
One and one-half cups of flour, two level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, sifted together. 
Work in lightly one tablespoonful of butter, 
and add between half and two-thirds a cup 
of milk. Bake in a granite ware biscuit 



96 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



97 



pan, about twenty-five minutes, in a quick 
oven. Mrs. H. R. H. 

^ ^ ^ 

*'Like Thirty Cents" 

TO ' ' feel like thirty cents, " is a slang 
expression of the day, and yet one 
may feel very well after a thirty-cent din- 
ner, if it be well planned and cooked. 

Here is. a thirty-cent dinner, or evening 
meal, that satisfied not only one, but two 
persons. Since requests have been made 
for articles bearing upon suitable things for 
light housekeeping, and involving small ex- 
penditure, the following is written out as 
suggestive, since it is no imaginary thing, 
but what "really- truly-happened," as the 
children say. 
The menu was: 

Eaked White Potatoes. Fried Apples. 

Buttered Toast. Peanut Butter. 

Cassava Pudding with Strawberry Jam 

and Cream. 

It was very quickly prepared. The po- 
tatoes were baked in the oven, and the 
apples, instead of being fried on the top of 
the stove, m ere laid on agate plates in the 
oven with butter, salt, and a little red pep- 
per. A suggestion of olive oil keeps the 
butter from burning so easily. Allow a tea- 
spoonful of sugar for each large apple, if 
they be very sour. Turn the apples once 
if necessary. 

The cassava pudding was baked, also. 
Plain sago or tapioca would do as well, but 
in this case there happened to be four 
"cassava cakes " — such as come in boxes 
for toasting — on hand to be used up. 
Therefore, they were made into a pudding. 
Eirst they were broken fine, and dropped 
into milk, about a half pint of it, a little 
salt being added and vanilla, then two eggs 
were beaten, and some sugar put in, ' ' by 
guess," since no thought came to mind 
about writing of this chance production. 
As there was half a cup of shredded cocoa- 
nut left from a cake, it was consigned to 
the pudding bowl. An agate pudding dish 
was buttered, and the custard-cassava-co- 
coanut pudding poured in, and baked like 
any custard. For a company pudding it 



could have had jelly or jam spread over the 
top of it, and a covering of meringue, but 
for simple, light housekeeping ways, it was 
satisfactory with just its own yellow top. It 
was served, however, in deep saucers that 
would hold plenty of good cream, and 
strawberry jam was passed, so that a large 
spoonful could be put with the pudding and 
the cream. Tea did not happen to follow, 
but it could have, at infinitesimal cost, and 
a trifling portion of the cream spared from 
the pudding for it. 

The apples cost three cents, the potatoes 
about two cents, the cream seven, the eggs 
four, while the butter, the jam, the peanut 
butter, the bread, and pudding ingredients 
came easily into the thirty cents by as close 
calculation as could be made of a portion of 
a loaf and a helping of butter. 

Surely no one would call it a poor meal. 
It certainly contained nourishment: cream, 
eggs, and two kinds of nuts, bread and po- 
tato for starch, and apples for the tart fruit 
element, cooked in fat. 

For meat eaters it could be supplemented, 
at extra cost, with chops, or cold meat, or a 
little stew. 

Meatless meals do not mean that one 
must swamp the stomach with poorly made 
vegetable soup, or subsist upon carrots and 
cocoa, or prunes and string beans. 

A Kentucky Burgout 

WHAT a chowder is in the North, a 
gumbo is to the people of the far 
Southern states, a Brunswick stew to Vir- 
ginians, a terrapin to Marylanders, and a 
Burgoo to Kentuckians. 

All are dishes of many ingredients, yet 
odd as some of the combinations seem, 
there is no suggestion of the hotch-potch 
of necessity. Doubtless, the Kentucky 
burgout, or *' burgoo," is a survival of early 
times, when people assembk^d for some big 
political meeting, or to hear some famed 
religious exhorter. Then they came long 
distances over the mountains or through the 
wilds, gun in hand, often killing some of 
the abundant game on their way. From 
the cultivated patches, corn-ears and pota- 
toes were brought, and together these made 



98 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a savory stew, much easier to prepare than 
the great barbecue, when a whole ox was 
roasted over the coals. 

A recipe given by a man who participated 
in a burgoo, some years ago, gives the in- 
gredients as follows: 

''Kentucky Burgoo" 

" In the bottom of a large pot some red 
peppers are thrown; then potatoes, toma- 
toes, and corn are added; then a half dozen 
nicely dressed prairie chickens are thrown 
into the pot, and also half a dozen, of the 
fattest farm-yard chickens are added; then 
a couple of dozen of soft-shell crabs and 
three or four young squirrels. Enough clear 
spring, or well water is poured into the 
cauldron barely to float the varied contents, 
and then the fire is started. The contents 
must be allowed to simmer slowly for six 
hours, and an old superstition is that it 
must be stirred with a hickory stick in order 
to give it the best flavor." 

In the Blue Grass Cook Book, which is 
illustrated with photographs of the comely 
black servitors who used to rule in the 
kitchens of the old Kentucky mansions, 
there is given a recipe for a 

"Kentucky Burgout" 

['^ Mrs. Garrard^^ ) 

"6 squirrels, 6 birds, i 1-2 gallons of 
water, i tea cup of pearl barley, i quart 
of tomatoes, i quart of corn, one quart of 
oysters, i pint of sweet cream, 1-4 a pound of 
butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, season- 
ings to taste. 

"Boil the squirrels and birds in water, 
until tender, and remove all the bones. 
Add barley and vegetables, and cook slowly 
for one hour. Ten minutes before serving, 
add the oysters and cream, with the butter 
and flour rubbed together. Season and 
serve hot." 

A similar custom prevailed about Shep- 
ardstown, West Virginia, and, perhaps, it 
is still kept up. An account of a " Soup, ' ' 
as a burgoo is there called, was given many 
years ago in a Cincinnati paper, which said 
that ' ' a Soup " is a sort of picnic, where 
each person invited brings a dressed 



chicken. The host provides the vegeta- 
bles. The chickens and vegetables are put 
into huge kettles, holding ten to twenty 
gallons, and cooked over open fires for 
several hours, until the combination is re- 
duced almost to a jelly. Pepper and other 
seasonings are introduced. The young 
folks stir the soup with long-handled iron 
spoons, walking around the kettle as they 
stir. When a girl's spoon clinks against 
the spoon of a young man, he is bound to 
catch and kiss her. It is to be hoped that 
some staid and sober persons rescue the 
soup from danger of being burnt, by being 
near to stir it, when the frolicking is general, 
for the paper says that the fun making gets 
very lively at times. The same rule used 
to prevail in Pennsylvania, when the young 
people gathered to make apple butter in 
huge kettles out of doors. When the soup 
is done, it is ladled out into plates and en- 
joyed by the assembled families. 

All epicures and diners-out at fashion- 
able tables, know what terrapin is, and the 
humblest know "snapper soup," which 
many think as good as the more vaunted, 
and far more expensive dish. A Bruns- 
wick stew can be made at home for a family 
dinner, as well as for a picnic or camping 
party. Raw meat, cooked meat, a beef 
bone, game such as rabbits and squirrels, 
may go into it for a base. . Then corn and 
lima beans are added, when the meat has 
been cooked, and the bones removed, and 
the best portions of the meat cut in neat 
pieces, and returned to the broth. Pepper, 
allspice, salt, red pepper, a little mustard 
and flour, and some port wine are added. 
If wine is tabooed, then a little of the best 
cider vinegar may be used, to give a little 
sharpness to the rich, brown gravy or broth. 
Unless the fat of the meat be very delicate, 
it is all skimmed off, and a good-sized piece 
of butter is added at the last, with the flour, 
wine and spices. It is usually made with 
game, and several kinds of meat 

The gumbos of the Creoles are becom- 
ing better known in the North of late, for 
even the canneries are placing chicken 
gumbo on sale. The gumbos are made of 
almost every kind of meat, and shell fish. 



THE GUEST ROOM 



99 



and herbs, in infinite variety like the above, 
but the difference is they are thickened 
with either okra pods, which are mucilagi- 
nous, or with the file povv-der, made from 
the tender young leaves of the sassafras. 
Do not confuse sassafras with sarsaparilla, 
which is quite a different thing. Young 
sassafras is a pleasant addition to almost any 
stew, and, in fact, it may be used in other 
dishes, very much as bay leaves are used. 



Concluded from page 95 
9 — My I St, The staff of life, 

My 2nd, Used in strife. — 9 Bread knife. 

10 — My ist. " A stene that gathers no moss," 

My 2nd, small and pointed, and without 
we are at a loss. . Rolling pin. 

11 — My I St, What Miss Edna hath made, 

My 2nd, With a bank is never afraid. 

1 1 — Match safe. 

12 — My 1st, Blooms in the spring. 

My 2nd, The farmer stows his wheat in. 

12 — Flour bin. 



The Guest Room 



By MAR Y MADISON 



THE hostess of thirty years ago, 
when expecting a guest, opened, 
with very pardonable pride, a room 
spotlessly clean, and absolutely sacred to 
the use of ' ' company. ' ' We criticise today 
the clamminess of that closed apartment, 
and the stiffness of furnishings unaccus- 
tomed to familiar use. We enjoy the in- 
formality of modern entertaining. We like 
to occupy a room, which, through its home- 
like touches, and its warm, bright welcome, 
brings us at once into a closer fellowship 
with those whose guests we are. 

It seems to the present writer, however, 
that in some homes the pendulum has 
swung a bit too far; and that in trying to 
avoid the oppressive dignity of the former 
''spare-bedroom," or the absolutely im- 
personal hospitality of the hotel, there have 
crept in omissions that frequently mar the 
comfort of a visitor. The purpose of this 
paper is to suggest a few of the ways in 
which we may, perhaps, effect a desirable 
compromise between the awe-inspiring 
guest chambers of other days, and the hit-or- 
miss arrangements with which we are some- 
times confronted, even in houses, which, 
in most respects, are complete and charm- 
ing. 

The furnishings of the guest room must 
be, of course, a matter of taste. No two 



rooms could or should be just alike, and 
their individuaUty is one of their chief 
charms. May I suggest, however, after years 
of careful observation of guest chambers, 
both luxurious and simple, that a room 
which is highly colored, or full of furniture 
and bric-a-brac, is rarely a restful one to 
visitors. Let quiet coloring and simplicity 
of furnishing be two of the first considera- 
tions. If the walls are to be papered, avoid 
large startHng patterns. There are few 
better backgrounds for pictures than the car- 
tridge papers, which come now in creams, 
golden browns, and light shades of terra^ 
cotta, besides the stronger colors. An un^ 
tinted wall is usually trying. 

Let the pictures, not too numerous, 
represent the careful thought and best taste 
of the family. Give the visitor no chance 
to feel that the decorations of his room were 
cast off by the household, and stored, for 
convenience, in the guest chamber. Let 
him not suspect either, that his walls were 
originally bare, and that, to cover up the 
spaces, some hurried purchases were made, 
just before his arrival, at the bargain counter 
of a department store. Let the subjects of 
the pictures be cheerful. Many a fine work 
of art is poorly adapted to a sleeping room. 
We hardly care to oj^en our eyes in the 
morning upon a bloody batde-field, or the 



lOO 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



death struggle of some wild animal, shot 
down by the hunter. Such depressing pic- 
tures are quite unnecessary, when the stores 
present a great variety of pleasanter sug- 
gestions. 

If possible, have at the windows roller 
shades dark enough to prevent the sleeper 
from being awakened too early in the morn- 
ing. Though tfulness in regard to this point 
may secure for your guest a far more re- 
freshing night than would otherwise have 
been the case. 

If there are draperies, be sure that they 
are not thick enough to reduce the supply 
of fresh air admitted to the room. Long 
curtains should be of a kind readily washed. 

If the floor is of hard wood, be sure 
that there are rugs in all places where much 
standing or walking is necessary. If thin 
oriental rugs show a tendency to slip on the 
pohshed floor, the difficulty is easily reme- 
died by laying under each one, a piece, 
almost as large, of felt paper such as is used 
under carpets. 

Above all, see to it that the bed, how- 
ever much or little it may cost, is perfectly 
comfortable. Money put into good springs 
and mattress is money well invested. The 
pleasure of your guest, upon which, in the 
end, rests your own happiness, is in many 
cases made or marred by a bed; and as long 
as the memory of the visit lasts, so long will 
be remembered your provision, or failure to 
provide, for a refreshing sleep. 

I cannot close this paper without calling 
attention to the need of a well-furnished 
washstand. Never think for one moment 
that you have made a guest entirely com- 



fortable, unless the room is suppUed either 
with a private bath, or a fully equipped 
washstand, stationary or otherwise. It may 
happen that a visitor is wilhng to use 
as a lavatory the general bathroom of the 
house; but mercy forbid that any guest 
should be reduced to this in a house where 
separate arrangements of this kind are pos- 
sible. The use of water and towels in 
abundance should. not depend upon the 
convenience of the rest of the house- 
hold. 

Water unfit for drinking should not be 
placed in a guest room for any purpose, 
unless full explanations are made, and 
drinking water is provided for brushing the 
teeth. Many a guest, whose training in 
hygiene has been careful, is embarrassed to 
find no water, except at the table, of the 
purity of which he feels sure. 

In this connection, let me commend to 
hostesses the drinking water sets for guest 
rooms found in most china stores. Many 
of these consist of a porcelain tray, on which 
are pitcher, glass, candlestick and match 
safe, all of which articles are likely to be of 
great service, and may be beautiful as weU. 

These few suggestions by no means ex- 
haust the subject, but if they stimulate 
thought in this direction, the object will be 
gained. Most of us desire to make com- 
fortable and happy all visitors, from inti- 
mate friends to the *' stranger within the 
gates. " Is it not a proper ambition to de- 
sire that our homes be remembered, not for 
their elegance, but for the unobtrusive an- 
ticipation of every want, which gives a 
welcome more eloquent than words? 



If you take a look at Nature 

In a microscopic way, 

Or if you in your gazing 

Take the telescopic sway ; 

In whichever way you practice 

There will be revealed to you, 

The same exact precision 

Which attach to all things true. 

If you gaze into a pansy, 

Or you penetrate a star, 

You will find revealed perfection 

In the near and in the far. " 



-5— £u-C)--£i— JEi— EL_iLJii 



^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribpr3. Questions relating to menus 

and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
:first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, ^i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
JEditor Boston Cooking- School Magazine, ■yj'^ Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1270.— Mrs. F. E. H., Redlands, Cal. 
■*' Recipes for Vinaigrette Sauce for asparagus 
and salads. Oysters Scalloped with sherry wine. 
Hot Vanilla Sauce, Foamy Sauce, Cherry Bisque 
-with Candied Cherries and Rum, and Sherry 
Wine Jelly." 

Vinaigrette Sauce 

Vinaigrette sauce is a French dressing to 
-which fine-chopped chives, chervil, tarra- 
gon and parsley have been added. Into a 
"bowl put three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
•one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika, then gradually beat in six table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil and finish with- two or 
more tablespoonfuls of the prepared herbs. 

Oysters Scalloped with Sherry 

Wine 

Select a shallow au gratin dish. Mix one 
cup of cracker crumbs, and one cup of 
crumbs from the center of a loaf of stale 
bread with a generous half cup of melted 
butter. Pour a cup of cold water over a 
quart of oysters; look at each oyster care- 
fully, rinsing it in the liquor to remove sand 
or bits of shell. Sprinkle the bottom of 
the dish with some of the buttered crumbs; 
on these set a layer of the cleaned oysters, 
-sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour on 
one or two tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. 
Alternate the layers of crumbs and oysters, 
having the last layer of crumbs. Bake about 
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve the 
instant the dish is taken from the oven. 



Hot Vanilla vSauce 
Sift together one-fourth a cup of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup of 
sugar; pour on two cups of boiling water, 
and stir and cook until the boihng point is 
reached, then let simmer ten minutes. 
When ready to serve beat in a tablespoon- 
ful of butter and about two teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla extract. 

Foamy Sauce 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Gradually beat in a cup of sugar, then the 
well-beaten white of an ^gg. Stir in half a 
cup of boiling water, two tablespoonfuls of 
wine or a teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Cherry Bisque with Rum 

To one quart of Philadelphia ice cream 
(one quart of thin cream and one cup of 
sugar mixed and frozen) beat in one cup of 
candied cherries, cut in bits or chopped fine 
and mixed with half a cup of Jamaica rum. 

Sherry Wine Jelly 

Soften half a two-ounce package of gela- 
tine in half a cup of cold water, and dissolve 
in one cup and a half of boiling water; add 
one cup of sugar and the juice of one 
lemon; stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
then strain into a mould; when the mixture 
has cooled somewhat, stir in one cup of 
sherry wine and let stand to become firm. 
For quick work ice is needed in the sum- 
mer time. 



101 



I02 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Query 1271.— E. F. P., Grand Rapids, Mich- 
igan, " How are the soups which we get in Europe 
thickened with bread ? Can you give a recipe for 
a thin, brittle cookie ? 



Soup Mitounee 

Remove the crust from two ounces of 
bread, then break the bread m pieces; if 
cut it will not mix into the soup easily. Put 
the bread and about five cups of any variety 
of broth over the fire together; let simmer 
twenty minutes, stirring meanwhile with a 
wooden spoon. The soup is ready to serve, 
when all the bread has been reduced to 
a pulp and the soup is thickened uniformly. 

Thin Brittle Cookies 

Try the recipe for Almond Crisps given 
on page 82 of this number of the magazine. 



Query 1272.— L. M. S. "Filling of maple 
sugar for a cake called ' Maple Sugar Cake.' " 

Filling for Maple Sugar Cake 

We have no means of knowing what 
recipe is referred to, but the following is 
good for filling and frosting. 

Maple Frosting 

Cook one pint of maple syrup and one- 
fourth a cup (two ounces) of butter to 
248^ on the syrup gauge, or until a little 
will form a pretty consistent ''soft ball," 
tested in cold water. Just before the syrup 
and butter are cooked enough, add three 
or four tablespoonfuls of boiling water to 
half a pound of marshmallows, and set them 
over hot water. When the marshmallows 
are partly melted, beat them into the syrup 
mixture, and continue beating until the 
whole is smooth and cool enough to remain 
upon the cake. This will make a thick icing 
for a large sheet of cake. It will be found 
soft and creamy, and wi '1 cut without crack- 
ing. 



cooled milk, a yeast cake mixed into half a 
cup of water, and between two and three 
cups of flour; beat thoroughly, cover and 
set aside to become light. Then add a cup 
of cleaned currants (dried) a teaspoonful 
of salt, one egg, two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, from two tablespoonfuls to half a cup 
of sugar, according to taste, and flour to 
make a stiff dough. Knead until elastic, 
then cover and set aside to become light. 
Shape into two loaves, and when again light 
bake about one hour. 



Query 1273. — Mrs. W. D. H., Dayton, O. 
Recipe for Old Fashioned Currant Bread." 

Currant Bread 
Make a sponge with a pint of scalded-and- 



QUERY T274. — Old subscriber, Bangor, Me. 
" Recipes for Halibut Loaf with Almond Sauce 
and a simple reliable recipe for Chocolate Sauce 
to serve with ice cream. 

Halibut Loaf 

About a scant pound of halibut will be 
needed for this dish. Discard the skin and 
bones; scrape the pulp of the fish from the 
fibre and pound the pulp in a mortar. 
Remove the soft crumb from two or three 
slices of bread, and press this through a 
colander; add milk, or stock made of the 
trimmings of the fish, with a piece of onion, 
and cook the bread to a firm smooth paste, 
stirring constantly meanwhile. For one cup, 
or half a pound of the fish-pulp, take half 
a cup of the cooled bread paste (panade), 
the unbeaten whites of three eggs, half a 
teaspoonful or more of salt and one-third 
a cup of butter. Pound the whole, in a 
mortar or a wooden mixing bowl until per- 
fectly smooth, then press (with a pestle) 
through a puree sieve. Then gradually 
beat in one cup of double cream, beaten 
solid. When the cream is evenly mixed 
through the other ingredients, turn the mix- 
ture into a buttered mould. Set the mould 
on many folds of paper in a baking dish, 
pour in boiling water to half fill the mould, 
cover the fish with a buttered paper and let 
cook until firm in the center. Do not allow 
the water to boil during the cooking. Let 
the mould stand on the table a few moments 
after it is taken from the oven, that it may 
shrink a little from the pan. Then un- 
mould on a hot dish. Serve the sauce in 
a dish apart. 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



103 



Almond Sauce for Fish Loaf (I) 

]\Ielt three tablespoonfuls of butter; cook 
in it three tablespoonfuls of flour, a scant 
half teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of paprika; add a cup and a 
fourth of fish broth (made of fish trim- 
mings and vegetables, two or 'three table- 
spoonfuls of white wine and a teaspoonful 
of lemon juice), and cook until the sauce 
boils; then add one-fourth a cup of cream, 
a tablespoonful of butter and one-fourth a 
cup of shredded almonds. 

Almond Sauce for Fish Loaf (II) 

Let half a cup of white bread crumbs cook 
(over hot water) in two cups of fish broth 
about half an hour. Pound two ounces of 
almonds with half a cup of cream to a paste, 
then press forcibly through a piece of cheese 
cloth. Pound two hard-cooked yolks of 
eggs with one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
smooth paste, then press through a sieve 
into the bread and broth; add also the 
almond milk, half a cup of cream and salt 
and pepper as needed. 

Chocolate Sauce for Ice Cream 

Stir one ounce (more may be used), of 
chocolate, one cup of sugar, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt, and one cup and a 
fourth of boiling water over the fire until 
boihng, then let cook for five minutes. Stir 
one level teaspoonful and a half of corn- 
starch with a little cold water to a smooth 
paste, then stir into the hot mixture and 
let boil six or eight minutes; add a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla, and use either hot or 
cold. 

Cocoa Syrup for Ice Cream 

Cook one cup of sugar to caramel; add 
half a cup of water and let simmer until the 
the caramel is melted, then stir in four level 
tablespoonfuls (one-fourth a cup), of cocoa. 
Flavor with vanilla and use hot or cold. 



Query 1275.— Mrs. A. F., Lander, Wyom- 
ing. " Simple recipes for Guild and Afternoon 
Socials. Forms of invitation to formal and in- 
formal luncheons with forms for acceptances 
and regrets '' 



Sardine Sandwiches 

Take equal parts — in bulk — of yolks of 
well-cooked eggs, rubbed to a smooth paste, 
and the flesh of sardines, freed from skin 
and bones and pounded in a mortar; season- 
to taste with paprika or chopped chili pep- 
pers and lemon juice. Use for a filling be- 
tween thin slices of bread from which the 
crust has been removed. 

Lamb-and-Mint Sandwiches 

Chop fine cold roast lamb; mix with mint 
sauce and use as a sandwich filling. 

Russian Sandwiches 

Use fine-chopped pimolas stirred into 
cream cheese; add also mayonnaise dressing 
with graham bread, spread with butter, as 
sandwiches. 

Other Recipes for Afternoon 
Socials 

For salted almonds see magazine for May, 
1907. A recipe for Charlotte russe will be 
found in this number of the magazine, also 
peach ice cream, peach sherbet, and choco- 
late frappe, also ideas for fruit cocktails. 

Form for Luncheon Invitation 

Engraved invitations are rarely used for 
luncheon; this function being considered 
less formal than a dinner. The address is 
often engraved upon note paper; if such be 
not the case, the address is filled in by 
hand. The following is a sample of the 
usual form of invitation. For a luncheon, 
to which intimate friends only are invited, 
the wording would be less conventional; 
perhaps more of a friendly, hearty style 
would be assumed — the word natural best 
expresses the style of such an invitation. 

Conventional Form of Luncheon 
Invitation 

12 Linden Street. 
My Dear Mrs. Brown : 

Will you give me the pleasure of your com- 
pany at luncheon on Wednesday, September the 
eighteenth, at half after one o'clock. 
Cordially yours, 

Helen Davenport, 
September the tenth. 



I04 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Form of Acceptance to Above 

loo Center Street. 
My Dear Mrs. Davenport : 

It gives me much pleasure to accept your kind 
invitation to luncheon on Wednesday, September 
the eighteenth, at half after one o'clock. 
Cordially yours, 

Idele Brown. 

The form for ' ' Regrets ' ' is same as 
above except the first phrase, which should 
read, ''It causes me much regret that I am 
unable to accept," etc. 



Query 1276. — Mrs. M. H., Bonham, Texas. 
" Recipe for Canning Tomatoes. Do you recom- 
mend paraffine for sealing the jars .>*" 

Canned Tomatoes 
To can tomatoes whole, select tomatoes 
that will pass through the mouth of the 
jars. Put four or five into a wire basket, 
and plunge the basket into a kettle of boil- 
ing water. Then remove the skins, and cut 
out the hard parts around the stem ends. 
Repeat until the jars are filled. Dissolve a 
tablespoonful of salt in four quarts of boil- 
ing water and fill the jars to the top. Put 
the rubbers in place and the covers on 
loosely. Set on a rack in a steam kettle 
filled with water nearly to the height of the 
rack. Cover, and let boil nearly half an 
hour. Add boiling water, if needed, to fill 
the jars. Screw down the covers and set 
aside. 

Canned Tomatoes, Sliced 

Remove the skins and hard portions as 
above, and cut in slices. Bring to the boil- 
ing point in a granite or white-lined sauce- 
pan. Add a teaspoonful of salt to each 
quart of fruit. Fill the jars, put on the 
rubbers and covers, and cook in the steam 
kettle about half an hour. Fill from one 
of the jars, if needed, and make the covers 
tight. If a steam kettle be not at hand, let 
the tomatoes cook in the saucepan, covered 
ten or fifteen minutes. Have the cans and 
covers standing in boiling water. Fill the 
cans to overflow, then adjust the rubbers 
and covers and set aside. Tighten the 
covers, when the jars are cold. 

We do not think paraffine is ever used 
to exclude the air from canned fruit. 



Query 1277. — Mrs. C. L., Warren, Idaho. 
" Recipes for Soft Cookies with condensed milk, 
and Ginger Cookies without molasses." 

Soft Cookies with Condensed 
Milk 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat into it a cup of sugar, then 
add a well-beaten egg, one-fourth a cup of 
condensed milk, diluted with one-fourth a 
cup of cold water, and about two cups of 
sifted flour, sifted again with two level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder and a grating 
of nutmeg. Do not use too much flour. 
The dough should be mixed as soft as pos- 
sible. Take a httlc on to the board, gather 
it together and pat it into a sheet half an 
inch thick. Cut into shapes with a cutter. 
Dip the cutter into flour before cutting each 
cake. Remove with a spatula to a buttered 
baking sheet, dredge the tops with granu- 
lated sugar and bake in a moderate oven. 

Ginger Cookies without Molasses 

Beat one cup of butter to a cream; grad- 
ually beat in one cup of sugar, then one 
level teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little 
cold water. Sift together two cups of flour 
and a tablespoonful of ginger. Stir the 
flour into the first mixture, adding as much 
more flour as can be stirred in easily with a 
spoon. Roll the dough with floured hands 
into marble shapes. Set in a buttered bak- 
ing pan some distance apart and bake to a 
moderate brown color. 



Query 1278.— M. R., Plaistow, N. H. 
" Recipes for use of sour cream other than in 
brown bread and com cake. Also some ways to 
serve or use Bees' Honey." 

Sour Cream Griddle Cakes 

Stir one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda into 
a cup of thick sour cream, and continue the 
stirring until the cream is foamy throughout. 
Pass through a sieve, together, one cup and 
a fourth of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a level teaspoonful of baking 
powder. Beat an egg; add the prepared 
sour cream and stir into the flour mixture. 
Bake at once on a hot griddle. 



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is my 
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NONE Oti»WSF WMM r TOiS -yM^Wl 



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TOASTED CORN FLAKES 

If you want to see the children eat — grow — thrive — give them Kellogg' s 
Toasted Corn Flakes. If yoU want to know the reason why — taste it your- 
self. Then you'll understand its wonderful popularity. You'll know 
why you should always look for the signature on the package. This is 
the sign of the genuine. The kind with the flavor so delicious, that 
it can't be duplicated by any other food, by any other grain, by any 
other make. 

Your Grocer has it, in large pc^kages. Get it and remember 
tlie signature of 



7^ /c:1<iri^i^/- 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Sour Cream Biscuits 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and three level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder. AVith the tips 
of the fingers work one or two tablespoon- 
fuls of shortening into the flour mixture, 
then stir the whole to a dough with a gener- 
ous cup of sour cream, into which one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of soda has been stirred. 
Turn on to a board lightly dredged with 
flour; knead gently, then pat and roll into 
a sheet, cut into rounds and bake fifteen or 
twenty minutes. This dough is good for fruit 
shortcakes, meat pies and similar dishes. 

Wa3^s of Using Bees' Honey 

The best way of serving honey is in its 
natural condition in the comb. It may be 
served with hot rolls or cold bread at break- 
fast or luncheon, cheese may accompany it 
at the latter meal. Honey sandwiches are 
appropriate at five o'clock tea or at a Sun- 
day night supper. Honey cakes are par- 
ticularly good, but we have not succeeded 
in securing a good recipe for them. 



Query 1279. — C. J., Tryon, Okla. "Recipes 
for Pickled Cherries, Chocolate Bavarian Cream, 
and Frappe." 

Sweet Pickled Cherries 

Remove the stems and stones or leave 
them in place as suits the taste. For seven 
pounds of fruit, make a syrup of three 
pounds and one- half of sugar, one pint of 
vinegar and two ounces, each, of whole 
cloves and stick cinnamon. Put in the fruit 
and let simmer twenty minutes, then store 
in jars. If the cherries be very juicy, skim 
out the fruit when it is cooked, and reduce 
the syrup by longer cooking. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream 

Meh two ounces of chocolate over hot 
water; stir and cook until glossy with one- 
fourth a cup, each, of sugar and water, then 
add to one cup of scalded milk; beat the 
yolks of three eggs; mix with one-fourth a 
cup of sugar and cook in the hot milk and 
chocolate, until the mixture thickens, as a 
boiled custard; add one-fourth a package 



of gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup of 
cold water, and strain into a dish standing 
in ice water; flavor with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract, aiid stir constantly until the 
mixture begins to thicken, then fold in one 
cup of double cream beaten solid. Turn 
the mixture into a mould lined with paper 
and set aside to become firm. When un- 
moulded serve with whipped cream, sweet- 
ened and flavored before whipping, and 



Meat or Cereals 

A Question of Interest to All Careful 
Persons 

Arguments on food are interesting. Many 
persons adopt a vegetarian diet on the 
ground that they do not like to feel that 
life has been taken to feed them, nor do 
they fancy the thought of eating dead 
meat. 

On the other hand, too great consump- 
tion of partly cooked, starchy oats and 
wheat, or white bread, pastry, etc., pro- 
duces serious bowel troubles, because the 
bowel digestive organs (where starch is 
digested), are overtaxed and the food fer- 
ments, producing gas, and microbes gener- 
ally in the decayed food, frequently bring- 
ing on peritonitis and appendicitis. 

Starchy food is absolutely essential to the 
human body. Its best form is shown in the 
food '^ Grape-Nuts," where the starch is 
changed into a form of sugar during the 
process of its manufacture. In this way, 
the required food is presented to the sys- 
tem in a pre-digested form and is imme- 
diately made into blood and tissue, without 
taxing the digestive organs. 

A remarkable result in nourishment is 
obtained; the person using Grape-Nuts 
gains quickly in physical and mental 
strength. Why in mental? Because the 
food contains delicate particles of Phos- 
phate of Potash obtained from the grains, 
and this unites with the albumen of all food 
and the combination is what nature uses to 
rebuild worn out cells in the brain. This 
is a scientific fact that can be easily proven 
by a ten days' use of Grape-Nuts. 
' ' There ' s a Reason. ' ' Read, ' ' The Road 
to Wellville, ' ' in pkgs. 



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A handsome booklet telling the whole story ot 
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New York Pittsburgh Chicago London 



Buy advertised goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
xl 



THE BOSTON COOKINCx-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



candied cherries. A sauce made by dilut- 
ing apricot marmalade with syrup may be 
used in place of the cream and cherries. 

Frappe 

Beverages as coffee, chocolate and fruit 
punch are often half frozen to a mush, when 
they are spoken of as coffee, chocolate or 
fruit frappe. They may or may not be 
served at a function where ice cream or 
sherbet is served, but a frappe is usually 
served at a reception, tea, lawn party, card 
party, etc. , when an ice is not served. A 
frappe is served in a sherbet cup. It is less 
sweet than a sherbet. 

Coffee Frappe 

To a quart of strong and very clear coffee, 
chilled, add three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
and turn into a freezer packed as for ice 
cream. Turn the crank until the mixture 
is half frozen. Serve in sherbet cups, either 
with or without whipped cream above. 

Chocolate Frappe 

Melt two squares of chocolate over 
hot water; add one-third a cup of sugar, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and gradually 
stir in one cup and a half of boiling water. 
Stir until the mixture boils, then stir in one 
level tablespoonful of cornstarch diluted to 
a smooth, thin paste with cold water. Let 
boil two or three minutes; stir in two cups 
and a half of milk, scalded over hot water, 
and continue stirring until the boihng point 
is again i cached, then turn into the double 
boiler, cover and let cook ten minutes. 
Strain through a cheese cloth and set aside, 
covered, to become thoroughly chilled. 
Flavor with two teaspoonfuls of vanilla ex- 
tract or half a teaspoonful of powdered 
cinnamon. Serve with a spoonful of 
whipped cream on the top, or put a table- 
spoonful of vanilla ice cream into each cup 
of chocolate. The cream may be sweet- 
ened and flavored before whipping or left 
plain. For some tastes half a cup of sugar 
will be preferred to the third a cup given. 
This may, also, be half frozen in a freezer. 



five or seven course luncheon with recipes for 
same; dishes to be served from kitchen; bouil- 
lon to be the first course. How to prepare the 
latter with beaten eggs." 

Continued on page xxn 



Query i: 



Mrs. v., Chicago. " Menu for 



Take a Record 

See How Many Friends Are Hurt by Coffee 

It would be just as reasonable for a tem- 
perance advocate to drink a Httle diluted 
whisky as to drink coffee, for one is as truly 
an intoxicant as the other, and persistence 
in the use of coffee brings on a variety of 
chronic diseases, notorious among which 
are dyspepsia, heart palpitation (ultimately 
heart failure), frequently constipation, kid- 
ney troubles, many cases of weak eyes and 
trembling condition of the nerves. 

These are only a few of the great variety 
of diseases, which come from an unbalanced 
nervous system, caused by the persistent 
daily use of the drug, caffeine, which is the 
active principle of coffee. Another bit of 
prima facie evidence about coffee is that 
the victims to the habit find great difficulty 
in giving it up. 

They will solemnly pledge to themselves, 
day after day, that they will abandon the 
use of it when they know that it is shorten- 
ing their days, but morning after morning 
they fail, until they grow to despise them- 
selves for their lack of self control. 

Any one interested in this subject would 
be greatly surprised to make a systematic 
inquiry among prominent brain workers. 
There are hundreds of thousands of our 
most prominent people who have aban- 
doned coffee altogether, and are using Pos- 
tum Food Coffee in its place, and for the 
most excellent reasons in the world. Many 
of them testify that ill health, nervous pros- 
tration, and consequent inabiUty to work 
have, in times past, pushed them back and 
out of their proper standing in life, which 
they have been able to regain by the means 
of good health, strong nerves, and great 
vitality, since coffee has been thrown out 
and Postum put in its place." There 's a 
Reason." Read, ''The Road to WeU- 
ville," in pkgs. ; it has been called "a 
health classic," by some physicians. 



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xiii 



Book Reviews 



The Popular Cookery Book. By C. 

Herman Senn. Paper. Price 6 d net. 

London : Food and Cookery. 

This is claimed to be the cheapest prac- 
tical book on cookery yet produced. Ac- 
cording to the author: "It is intended to 
serve as a guide to good home cooking, en- 
abling the progressive housewife to prepare, 
or direct to be prepared, a large variety of 
Anglo-French dishes which will commend 
themselves for cheapness and excellence, so 
that their tables may be well spread, and 
yet with economy and taste. 

'■'■ Every effort should be made by those 
who are responsible for the preparation and 
cooking of meals to make the dishes pre- 
sentable and dainty in appearance, for 
whatever pleases the eye is pleasing to the 
palate. A dish, well cooked, if badly dished, 
offends the eye, and has the tendency to 
mar the nleasure of those who have to eat 
it. 

"The recipes for the various dishes con- 
tained in this book have been compiled on 
pvpular lines, being accompanied by clear, 
practical directions, and, having been tested 
over and over again, every recipe may be 
accepted as thoroughly rehable. ' ' 

In cheap and simple form, here are pre- 
sented by a well-known authority excellent 
recipes for the various dishes suitable for 
the plainest or most elaborate menus. 



Polytechnic Cookery Book. By M. M. 
Mitchell. Cloth. Price 75 cents. New 
York: Longmans, Green & Co. 
Good cooking and good health are inti- 
mately related. The use of a good cook 
book is one of the best helpmates in pro- 
ducing nourishing and dainty dishes. The 
authoress of this book has had many years 
of experience as teacher at the Polytechnic 
School of Cookery, London, Eng. She has 
spared, it seems, neither time nor effort to 
turn out a rehable manual on "Home 
Cooking. ' ' The work is planned on a truly 
scientific and useful basis. It contains 
recipes; it also contains more — something 



of just that kind of information one wants 
to find in a manual of cookery. It is very 
brief, but it bears the marks of the carefully 
wrought and finished product. Teacher, 
student and housekeeper will find in this 
manual a guide of more than ordinary use- 
fulness. 

Researche Entrees. By C. Herman 

Senn. Cloth, III. Price 5 ^\ London: 

Food and Cookery. 

' ' The recipes collected in this volume 
represent the newest and most popular En- 
trees of the present time, and the dishes 
described are of the highest type of the 
continental cuisine. 

" Dishes following the fish course or pre- 
ceding the Remove, when such is served, 
are called Entrees. 

' ' Entrees are defined as ' dressed dishes ' 
or ' made dishes. ' A dish bearing the name 
Entree is, as a rule, composed of more than 
one ingredient, as distinguished from solid 
meats served with a garnish. 

"When two Entrees are chosen for a 
dinner, the first should be made the lighter 
of the two. All light Entrees should be 
made in fancy style, and dressed in small 
portions; it is also desirable that any carv- 
ing should be avoided. 

"The Entree course is divided into two 
classes, the hot and the cold service. When 





THE HOUSEHOLD 

DISINFECTANT 

Destroys disease germs and foul gases. 

An odorless, colorless liquid sold in quart 

bottles only by druggists and high-class 

ffrocers. 

Manufactured by Henr" B. Plattt at New 

York and Montreal. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BAKER'S 
EXTRACTS. 



The next time you buy Vanilla, 



try 




Baker's 



Vanilla 




Pure extract of vanilla beans, 
made by a new process. It gives 
your food a natural fruit flavor 
and is healthful. Unlike the 
chemical and water combinations 
so commonly sold as Vanilla. 
Your grocer can supply you if 
you ask : Baker's comes by 
asking. 



Complies wilrh all Food Laws 



^ 




T FIND that Old Grist Mill Wheat 
^. Coffee fills perfectly the place of 
genuine coffee, with much better results. 
Many who cannot drink genuine coffee 
are delighted with Old Grist Mill. — 
From Good Housekeeping TestimoniaL 




A Perfect Jar 

The Atlas Special Wide Mouth 
Jar, shown in the illustration, allows you 
to preserve large peaches, pears or tomatoes 
ijuhole and with the appearance of natural 
freshness. You can certainly appreciate 
the great advantage of such a jar over the 
ordinary kind. Ask your grocer for the 

ATLAS 

Special IVIasori 

and get the most perfect jar made. The 
Atlas Mason is a very strong jar — you'll 
not be able to twist off the top when you 
screw on cap, as happens so often with 
poor jars. Don't forget the name or 
think that "Mason" is enough. To 
have the best the word ''Atlas" must 
appear on the jar. 

The E. Z. Seal Jar 

(Lightning Trimmings) 
is also an Atlas and has a much wider 
mouth than other lightning jars. 

If your dealer cannot supply these jars, 
send us $3, and we will express prepaid thirty 
(30) quart size Atlas Special Widk Mouth 
Jars to any town having- an office of the 
Adamsor U.S. Express Co. .within the States 
of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, 
Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, 
Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, or Michigan, or we 
will quote delivery prices in other portions 
of the United States by freight or express. 

A Book ot Preserving Recipes. 

Sent free to every woman who sends us the name 
of her grocer, stating if he sells Atlas jars. 

HAZEL-ATLAS GLASS CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a hot and a cold Entree is served at a meal, 
the hot Entree must be served first and the 
cold last. 

From the foregoing introductory remarks, 
it may Le noted that the author is an ex- 
pert in that kind of cooking and serving 
which pertains to the elaborate or full-course 
dinner. To those who are in search of up- 
to-date and correct information on this 
subject, Researche Entrees can be recom- 
mended as the newest and most resourceful 
work of its kind. 

The descriptions of dishes are made 
plain and complete. The illustrations in 
presenting the articles described add much 
to its practicability. 



EooDS AND Their Adulterations. By 

Harvey AV. Wiley. Cloth 8 vo. 111. 

Price ^4 net. (Phila. ): P. Blackiston's 

Son & Co. 

''Foods and Their Adulterations," by 
T)t. Harvey W. Wiley, Chief Chemist of 
the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture, tells simply and straightforwardly those 
things which the progressive housekeeper 
cannot afford not to know regarding the 
foods to be selected for the table; it gives 
complete, detailed information concerr.ing 
the origin, manufacture and composition of 
food products, with a description of the 
common adulterations, the proper food 
standards and the national focd laws and 
regulations. The work is an octavo of 625 
pages, with 85 illustrations in black and 
white and 1 1 handsoir.e plates in colors, 
showing the various ' ' cats ' ' of meats, etc. 
Meats, poultry and game, fish foods, milk 
and milk products, cereal foods, invalid and 



infant foods, vegetables, fruits, spices, nuts, 
etc. , sugar and honey — these are some of 
the subjects thoroughly dealt with in this 
work. The crusade Dr. Wiley has made 
and is making in the interests of a nation 
fully aroused on the question of purer foods 
is well known. His extensive experience 
and the facihties he has ever at his com- 
mand qualify him above anyone else in the 
country, to write authoritatively and inter- 
estingly on this subject. What to eat is not 
more important these days than what not 
to eat. 

A storehouse of information, invaluable 
for reference. A really great and scientific 
work. 



Writing for the Press. By Robert 
Luce. Cloth. Price $1.00. Boston: 
Chpping Bureau Press. 
All about Writing for the Press, Printing 
and Bookmaking, is contained in this book. 
Rare, indeed, must be the information 
needed that is not to be found here. It 
explains the details of an intricate art with 
which few people are acquainted. It gives 
information that is indispensable to those 
who wish to write successfully for the press, 
or who are connected with the processes of 
printing in any other capacity. In other 
words, it holds a deal of instruction that a 
large and growing class of people need to 
know. 



Cooking and Serving en Casserole. 
By Janet M. Hill. Meriden, Conn: In- 
ternational Silver Co. 
This attractive booklet is gotten up by 

the International Silver Co. of Meriden, 



ASK YOUR DEALER for 

and insist on 

Having 

genuine 




Sample Pair, Mercerized 
25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 



over two hundred styles. 
Wc m all over the world 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

EVERY PAIR WARRANTED 

I f\n]l FOR THE NAME ANDTHE 



GEORGE FROST CO., Hakers, Boston, 



MOULDED RUBBERBUTTON 
Mass.. U. S. A. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Soups 

Stews and 
Hashes 



See that Lea CEl Perrins' sig- 
nature is on wrapper and label 



are given just 
that '* finish- 
ing touch" 
which makes 
a dish perfect, by using 

Lea & Perrins' Sauce 

THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 

It is a perfect seasoning for all kinds of Fish, Meats, Game, Salads, 
Cheese, and Chafing-Dish Cooking. It gives appetiz- ^ 
ing relish to an otherwise insipid dish. 

John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 



BEWARE OF IMITATIONS. 



3 Bottles SYLMAR 

(C al i f orni a) 

OLIVE OIL 



FOR $3.00 

EXPRESS PREPAID 
Send post-office or ex- 
press money order for 
$3.00 for three large-size 
bottles, and we will delive'" 
them to you express prepaid. 
Satisfaction guaranteed or 
money refunded. You take no 
risk. 
Vye produce Sylmar Olive Oil under the 



Sample 

Bottle 

10c. 



DIRECT FROM THE RANCH 



most favorable conditions 
finest ripe olives grown in 
California. We own the 
olive ranch, the trees, and 
the most improved mill. We 
pick, preos and bottle our 
own product. In 
a word, we pro- 
duce the highest 
quality of olive 
oil in the world. 



from the 




Sylmar Olive Oil was awarded 
the only Grand Prize (highest 
award) at the St. Louis World's 
Fair in competition with all 
other olive oils. 

The absolute purity of Sylmar 

Olive Oil is protected by a 

guarantee of $1 ,000.00 in gold. 

Our Serial No. i2si 



Send us lo cents postage 
and we will send you one of 
our sample bottles of pure Syl- 
mar Olive Oil, showing the su- 
perior quality of our product, 
together with a booklet con- 
taining physicians' directions 
for medicinal uses of olive 
oil, cooking receipts, govern- 
ment recommendations, and 
other valuable information. 
Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the 
rich, fruity flavor of ripe California 
olives and is most palatable. Sylmar 
will keep longer than any other olive 
oil without turning rancid. Sylmar 
can be purchased with the confidence 
that ever}' bottle will stand the 
most rigid chemical analysis and be 
proven free from adulterants. 



Pure Olive Oil is universally recognized as 
a highly nutritious form of food, easily diges- 
ted and almost v^hoUy assimilated, vi^hile its 
therapeutic values are agreed upon by all 
leading physicians. 



From 



Blossom to Bottle " on the Largest Olive Ranch 
In the World 



LOS ANGELES OLIVE GROWERS ASSOCIATION 

308 Bradbury BIdg., Los Angeles, California 



Buy advertised goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ilSawyer^s [^^^i 




CRYSTAI^ 



Blue! 

For the 

Laundry 

DOUBLE 
STRENGTH 

Sold in 

Sprinkling 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue i 
gives a beautiful* 
tintan< 
color 

and goods mat cure 
worn and fadedo 



a beautirul f 
id restores the r 
to linen, laces J 
joods that cure \ 



It goes twice as far 
as other Blues 



Sawyer's; 



i\ht Sure You Get 
iFrom Your Dealer 




To Prepare Food 
without fire apply 
heat direct to the food 
in a G E Electric Cooker 

Begin in the morning with a combination 
liquid heater, cereal cooker, egg boiler and 
poacher. 

This utensil is useful for a dozen purposes 
during the day ; can be handled and washed like 
ordinary dishes, and is as simple and convenient 
as an incandescent lamp. 

Leaflet 3507 C Explains 

GENERAL ELECTRIC COMPANY, 

Schenectady, N. Y. 




Parts of one quart combination heater 



. nn. It is leautifully printed and illus- 
trated. A brief sketch of Casseroles, Rame- 
qiiins and other Rehsh dishes, and about, 
thirty recipes or directions for preparing 
di.hes appropriate to this kind of dainty- 
table service make up the contents of the 
booklet. The publishers will be pleased to 
raail a copy to anyone, on application, who 
will enclose the necessary letter postage, 
(5 cents). 



Outlines for Topical Study of 

Domestic Science 

No. I 

ARRANGED by Mrs. Margaret Blair of the 
Minnesota Agricultural College, and Chair- 
man cf the Household Economics Committee of 
the General and Minnesota Federations. 

MRS. BLAIR has prepared four 
study outlines covering the whole 
range of Domestic Science. The 
other outlines will follow in logical se- 
quence. 

1. Relation of Food to Health. 

(a) Poorly cooked foods. 
(<^) Poorly selected loods. 
(V) Underfed and overfed individ- 
uals. 

2. The Cereals. 

(a) Food Value — and place in dietary. 
(d) How to cook and serve cereals. 

(c) Cost and comparative value of 
different cereals. 

3. Flour and Bread. 

(a) Home-made bread. 

(d) How to select a good flour. 

((f) Graham, entire wheat and wheat 
flour. 

4. Meats. 

(a) How to select meats. 

(J?) How to cook meats. 

(c) Use of meat in the dietary. 



5- 



Milk. 

(a) Care of milk. 

(J?) Value of milk as a food. 

U) Adulterated milk. 



Buy acvertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



xvni 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



D. 



7V77 





Be 

CoffoG, 



^^.. 



Ma 



Coffee is healthful if made right. 

A great many persons who cannot 
drink coffee made by ordinary methods 
are really benefited by drinking coffee 
made in a 



(I 



eititiitig' 

Bow^man 
*'Mctcor" 

Coffee Percolator 






For 

■^x^,^ Making 

WSf%^ Coffee 

i^ ^ on the 

^ Table 



Coffee made by any process where the grounds are m the liquid 
is bound to have a pungent, bitter taste — and the longer it 
stands, or the more it boils, the worse it gets. 

By the Manning-Bowman " Meteor" method, the grounds are 
abo've the liquid. As soon as the water in the lower compart- 
ment becomes heated it is forced up through the central tube and 
sprayed over the ground coffee by the automatic circulating pro- 
cess, and, filtering through, absorbs all the flavor and aroma, 
leaving the bitter grounds containing the tannic acid behind where 
they can do no harm. 

To obtain the same strength use one-third less than you do by other 
i-'ethods — for the Manning-Bowman "Meteor" extracts from the 
Coffee all of the good and none of the bad. 

The Manning-Bowman " Meteor " is made both in the urn-shape 
with alcohol burner and coffee-pot style for stove or range. 

For sale by leading dealers. Over loo styles and sizes. Write for 
descriptive booklet. J-19 

MANNING, BOWMAN & CO.» Meriden, Conn. 







Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xix 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



French's Pure Spices 




The Standard of American ExceHence 

Sold in Blue Packages Like Illustration — 
Never in Balk. 

These spices are carefully selected at the place of 
growth in order to secure the choicest qualities ; are 
cleaned thoroughly before shipping to us and again 
cleaned upon arrival at our Mills. They are scientific- 
ally reduced to a powder ; not touched by hand, but 
packed by machinery, insuring perfect cleanliness and 
delive;y into your hands in perfect condition. 

The success of your cooking depends upon the quality 
of your Spices. Compare French's witli any you have 
used and see the difference — we think you will be sur- 
prised and pleased with the superior quality of French's. 

If your grocer does not keep them, send us 14c. with 
his name and we will send you a 1-4-lb. package, any 
variety, to any address postpaid. Purity guaranteed 
under Serial Number 4168 filed at Washington in full 
compliance with the Pure Food Law. 

The R. T. FRENCH CO., Rochester, N, Y. 

Spice Im2)orters. Mustard Manufacturers. 




6 Vegetables. 

(<2) Cooking and serving. 

(^b) Food value and losses in cooking. 

{c) Canned Vegetables. 

7. Fruits. 

(^) Value of fruits in the dietary. 
{b) Home Canning of fruits. 
(<:) Selection of fruits. 

8. Drinking Water. 

{a) Relation to Health. 
{b) Improving the drinkmg water. 
(^) Improving water for cleaning pur- 
poses. 

9. Beans and Peas. 

(^) Preparation for table. 

(<^) Food value. 

(<:) Combination with other foods. 

to. Cost and Value of Foods. 

{a) Dietary study of family where a 

large sum is spent for foods, and the 
(^b) Dietary study of a family where a 

large sum is spent for nutritive 

foods. 



ti. The Adulteration of Foods. 

(^7) Foods most extensively adulter- 
ated. 
{b) The labels on foods. 
(c) Pure ioud laws 

12. The Cost of Food. 

{a) Expenses cf typical famiUes for 

foods. 
(^b) Comparison of incomes of famihes 

and expenses f-r foods. 
(c) The improvement of the dietary 
of a family. 
A large number of bulletins on these 
topics may be secured from Mr. A. C. 
True, Dept. of Publications, Washington, 
D. C. 



These trade-mark cris 

Cres« 

(Formerl 

Perfect Breakfas^ 
PAN3V FLOUI 
Unlike all 
For 
f ARWEU & RHINES. 



les on every package 

-g and 

jRrrs) 
>TALS, 

Health Cereals, 
ake and Biscuit 
grocers, 
irrite 

mm, N. Y.. II. s. A. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XX 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




MM^ 




FREE 




Just send your own and your grocer's name 
and address on a postal card and we will 
send you (Free) a generous sample of Shaker Salt in a 
miniature carton (which is also an individual salt shaker) 
a Double- Value Coupon to apply on a genuine Cut-Glass 
Salt Shaker, and a valuable Book telling all about salt. 

Ordinary salt has a sharp, bitter taste that is due to natural impurities. 
That's bad enough — but the worst danger lies in the odors and im- 
purities it absorbs while in the sack before it reaches the table. 
Government tests prove the purity of our salt. , Shaker 
Salt is packed in a patent air-tight, germ and moisture- 
proof box which preserves the salt air-tight and immacu- 
late in its purity until the This is a character- 
last of the salt is - ~ . ^[^s istic not true of any 
used. ^^^^< other 




It has a perfect flavor because it is free from all impurities and odors. Then, too, it is 

always dry, always flows freely, even in damp weather. 

The Shaker box is made of paraffin-coated pure wood fibre and has a handy spout, making 

it easy to fill a salt shaker without wasting a single grain. 

The little carton of Shaker Salt, which we gladly send you free, will show 

you how fine, dainty, pure and white is this brand of table salt. 

And it will prove that Shaker Salt flows freely by merely tipping up the 

shaker. Your grocer will supply you with Shaker Salt at 10 cents the box. 

The cost is about 5 cents more per year than " bag salt." 

In spite of this fact, Shaker Salt is the most economical, because 

it is pure salt —no grit, no odors, no germs. Just say the word 

and we will send you the Free sample, the Double-Value Coupon 

and Book, at once. 

i^/j_Mi '^^^ Diamond Crystal Salt Co., Station 24 St. Clair, Mich. 

Makers of the only Salt in the World above 99 per cent pure 
Best by Government Test. Save Coupons for a Cut-Glass Salt Shaker 





r 



BOSTON 

C0OSLN'6SCH<J0L 

MAGAZIM 




L 



PRACTICAL BINDERS for 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

We have had made a number of binders in green, red, and ecru buckram, 
appropriately lettered. 

They are neat, attractive, and practical. Each holds conveniently from one 
to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine. 

As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a complete 
index, by presen-ing the magazines in a binder one will have at the end of 
the year a complete book on cooking and household science handy for ref- 
erence at all times. 

TO ANY present subscriber who sends us one neiv subscription at $i we 
will send, j^osipaid, as premium l_as long as they last), one of these 
binders. Price 50c., postpaid. 

Address 

BOSTON COOKING=SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods 



- Do not accept substitute? 
xxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A Dainty Feast 

For luncheon or supper at evening's end, 
what is more tempting than a 
deviled crab, piping 
hot in his glis- 
tening shell. 






McMENAMIN'S 

Deviled Crabs 



are ready for your table, fresh ^•^.i.jiP 
and efood as vou could eet *(^f i^-^ i^ ;^™ 



S and good as you could 
\ them at the shore. 

Tender and sweet — hermetic 




V ally sealed an hour after they p^sw 

\ are caught. Deliciously flavored |^^^k 

\ and spiced ready to heat and „^^^ 

^ put into the shells. Good ^^^^ 

How \ for all time — anytime |i|^^A^ 

to Cook V —anywhere. ^>^-€^:^^^M^ 

Crabs ^"""^-^^^^..i^ " '^gmtk 
Write for free Crab ^"'"'^^li,,. '^^^Kf 
Book which gives recipes '^^^^i^M^<iif^^^^^^ 
for many appetizing crab dishes, "^^^-^i;^ 
Shells accompany each can — see^--'-'^ 
that you get them. 

For sale by leading grocers. 

McMENAMlN & COMPANY, 
30 Linden Ave^ Hampton, Va. 




Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

A Pure, Wholesome Food. 

For Table Jellies, 
Blanc Mange, Char= 
lotte Russe, etc. 

Our Gelatine is pulver- 
ized and dissolves quickly. 
It is therefore the most 
convenient form for fam- 
ily use. 

FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS. 



( CoMc hided fron page xii) 

Menu for Luncheon 

Bouillon. 

Salmon Cooked with Wine. 

Cucumber Salad, 

Broiled Lamb Chops. 

Braised Lettuce with Green Peas. 

Canton Salad. 

Peach Sherbet. 

Almond Crisps. 

Celery Hearts. "Young America" Cheese, 

Toasted Crackers. Coffee. 

Recipes for Bouillon are given in all 
modern cook books. We do not under- 
stand the reference to "beaten Qgg,'' un- 
less it be the egg used in clarifying the 
broth; directions for this will be found with 
the recipe. Recipes for the other dishes, 
save the broiled chops, which any one able 
to carry out the above menu can cook, are 
all given in this copy of the magazine. If 
the fish dish must be prepared from fish pre- 
viously cooked, choose creamed or deviled 
fish instead of the dish given. If the sal- 
mon be preferred, have the fish cut into 
thin slices and allow half a slice for each 
service, cutting through the cooked fish to 
secure cutlet shaped pieces. 



As a general rule men admire a girl who 
is a bright, entertaining companion, and 
who has ever a kind word and pleasant smile 
for those around her. They admire the 
girl who is always neatly and becomingly 
dressed, no matter if the materials used are 
inexpensive. 

The girl who can adapt herself to any 
society and who never puts on affected airs 
is always sure of popularity. From the at- 
titude which many men adopt toward pretty 
and fascinating girls it is evident that their 
thoughts are upon a certain maxim of an old 
French diplomatist, who said, '^ Never 
marry a pretty or fascinating woman. Ad- 
mire her from a distance, if you like, but 
do not tie her to you by the bonds of matri- 
mony; after, the wedding one wants some- 
thing besides smiles and charm." Men 
invariably admire charm and prettiness in a 
woman, but unless these qualities carry with 
them certain other attractions they look 
elsewhere for their brides. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Mellin's Food for the Baby 




Ralph William Starkey, a Mellin's Food Boy. 

Mothers, you will not dread the Summer months if you use Mellin's Food for your babies. 

Mellin's Food perfectly modifies the milk and makes it easily digestible. You can even travel 
during the summer if you want to and change milks as often as necessary. 

Mellin's Food is not only the nearest perfect substitute to mothers milk, scientifically, that 
has ever been devised, but it is the nearest practically as well. 

It -would be -wise for you to try Mellin*s Food for your baby, and if you >v-lll 

simply say the -word, -we -will send you a Sample Bottle FREE of charge. 

Mellin's Food Company, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




to Exclude Air 

Fruits, preserves, jellies and 
catsups, are kept in prime condi- 
tion any length of time, if air is excluded 
from the jar or bottle by a thin coating of 

Pure Refined 

PARAFFINE 

Easy to apply — sure to preserve. When 
fruit or catsup is ool, pour melted paraffine 
over contents of bottle or jar to a depth of 
one-fourth inch. This makes an air-tight 
seal and keeps the fruit. 

Pure Refined Paraffine is useful for many 
purposes and should always be in the house. 
Sold in handy-sized cakes. Ask for it, 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 
(Incorporated) 




iSMl 



THE PICTURE OF THE 
MINUTE MAN IS ON 
EVERY PACKAGE. 
IX IS PART OF OUR 
TRADEMARK. 

Do you know MINUTE GELATINE ? 
Have you come to know how it saves time., 
leLbor. and doubt in the making of desserts ? 




A pure, delicious, wholesome food prod- 
uct, used daily in millions of the best homes. 
Requires no soaking, dissolves immediately 
in boiling water or milk. All measured, each 
package contains four envelopes, each en- 
velope makes one pint. Whole package 
makes one-half gallon of delicious jelly. 

Ask your grocer for it. Full package by 
mail I2C. and your grocer's address. 
Minute Cook Book Free, 
WHITMAN GROCERY CO., Dept. K, Orange, Mass. 



The things that men like best in a woman 
are kindness, the gentle, dinging depend- 
ence on the man they love, a sweet, low 
voice, an indefinable womanly modesty 
which shrinks from notoriety, and, most 
particularly, a good, cheerful temper. 
These may not attract and fascinate as do 
charm, versatility, brilliance or the talent to 
amuse; but the old-fashioned first men- 
tioned virtues last longer. They stand the 
wear and tear of life much better, and, after 
all, it is not the sparkling repartee which 
amuses a crowded room that is good to live 
with, but the cheerful good humor that can 
brighten up a back parlor. A man may not . 
acknowledge it, but he secretly admires 
the girl who is her mother's right hand in 
household matters, and who is not above 
taking an interest in the most trivial things 
in connection with home duties. He likes 
to think that the girl he hopes some time 
to marry can, in an emergency, turn her 
hand to anything, from cooking the family 
dinner to making her own clothes. He 
wants her also to be unselfish enough to 
give up her own pleasures to benefit an- 
other, and not consider herself ill used at 
having to do so. This girl can sometimes 
talk of more important things than dress, 
and can listen intelligently when deeper sub- 
jects are introduced. Matrimony has its 
storms and trials, and, to weather those 
storms, something more than a merry heart 
and a nice complexion are needful. 

The weak-minded, hysterical, pleasure- 
loving woman has had her day. Men loved 
and admired her years ago, but when the 
modern woman came along with her sane, 
rational ideas — a woman who could be 
trusted like a man, and yet loved like a 
woman; who could be reasoned with instead 
of cajoled — then men saw they had a com- 
panion instead of a plaything, and the other 
woman's reign was over. — Exchange. 



Saratoga Soup 

Warm and strain one can of tomatoes;, 
add half a cup of raw sago. Boil until the 
sago is clear. Add one pint of consomme, 
salt and pepper to taste, and one 
spoonful of Lea &: Perrins' Sauce. 



table- 



Buy acvertis^u goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON 

CQDKINGSCHQDL 

MAGAZINE 

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The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XII 



October 



No.- 3 



In Far Japan 



By MARY H. NORTHEND 



NO nation has more interest for us 
than that of our Httle brown brothers 
and sisters on the other side of the 
world, in far Japan. Their wonderful prog- 
ress, during recent years, has challenged 
the admiration of the civilized world. A 
greed for glory seems to be the keynote of 
their national character, and no country is 
more sensible to affront. This causes them 
to be very respectful in their treatment of 
one another; the poorest tradesman ex- 
pects civility and receives it. They abhor 
avarice, and never regard poverty as a dis- 
grace, since all sorts and conditions of men 
are liable to this fate. 

This love of honor causes much display 
at their weddings, where royal ladies are 
given in marriage by the emperor to the 
lords or princes of his court. The nuptials 
are prodigiously expensive. 

Before marriage, the bridegroom builds 
for his bride a magnificent wooden palace; 
and after marriage he gives her a train cf 
fifty, a hundred, or even two hundred ladies 
to wait upon her. They are supposed to 
converse with nobody outside the house, 
and are divided into companies of sixteen, 
one being appointed superior to govern the 
rest. Each company has its own particular 
dress and colors, one red with green ribbons, 
another green with lilac ribbons, and so on, 
in endless variety. 

When the ladies visit their relatives, 



which they are allowed to do but once a 
year, the function is conducted with ex- 
traordinary pomp and ceremony. Forty or 
fifty maids of honor accompany them in 
palanquins, gold embellished and decked 
with curious carvings and paintings. One 
palanquin follows another at a distance of six 
feet, and maid servants walk upon each side 
V. ith much gravity and dignity. Nowhere, 
perhaps, is a lady of quality so highly es- 
teemed as in Japan. 

Generally speaking, Japanese men make 
kind and affectionate husbands, just as the 
women make exemplary wives and mothers. 
The husband has absolute control over the 





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Brass Tray Used in Temple, in jape 



107 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



person of his wife, and, although I have 
never seen a man strike a woman in Japan, 
yet it is understood that tliere is some pinch- 
ing and slapping done upon occasions when 
^'tantrums" — those strange and ungov- 
ernable spells of exasperating ugliness — 
settle down upon the matrimonial horizon. 
At such times of stress, free hitting, biting, 
and scratching are indulged in on both sides 
of the house. The greater strength of the 
husband invariably leaves him master of the 
situation, and the belligerent household 
speedily resumes its serenity, with no appeal 
to a divorce court on the part of the van- 
quished. In fact, it is difficult to see just 
where matters would end in these domestic 
storms, unless physical force were employed, 
for the women are very childish, and in their 
bursts of fury they might spread wreck and 
ruin around, if they were not restrained. 
It is well that these family jars occur but 
seldom, as they make up in rarity by vivid 
intensity. 



serene nerves and equable temperaments. 
I have never seen a child whipped in Japan. 
On two or, perhaps, three occasions, I have 
seen a mother administer in reproof a mild 
slap over the head; and this light correction 
at once reduced the young delinquent to 
order. Fancy an American babe being dealt 
with thus ! 

From earliest infancy, a Japanese child is 
taught to be pohte. If a toy or sweetmeat 
is given to a little fellow barely able to tod- 
dle, he knows what is expected of him, and 
will touch his head and bow. Little rice 
cakes are the favorite confection, beautiful 
in variety of appearance, but all alike to the 
taste until very recently, when the confec- 
tioners have adopted American notions of 
flavoring, since which time they have pro- 
duced some results that are really very 
palatable. 

The accompanying cut shows the appro- 
priate dress for boys and girls of the upper 
classes in Japan; in fact, these dells are the 




Japanese Dress oi Boy and Girl 



The Japanese children seem to be the 
happiest little creatures in the world. Their 
parents fondle and indulge them to an un- 
limited extent, yet they never lose control 
of them. The non-irritating character of 
the native diet has much to do with these 



valued possession of a friend of mine, to 
whom they were given by a Japanese mother, 
who had dressed them in garments fash- 
ioned from the very clothing worn by her 
own little ones. 

You must not think that these children 



IN FAR JAPAN 



109 



always wear so much clothing. The chmate 
of Japan is extremely warm curing a part of 




Model of Japanese House 

the year. Then the children of the poorer 
classes go quite naked, and in the little vil- 
lages through which the traveler passes he 
may see not only children, but brown men 
and boys, with only a narrow, soft, white 
cloth about their loins, sleeping on the mat- 
ted floors of the little houses, where all the 
paper partitions have been removed, to let 
the breeze blow through. The men seem 
slightly built, but very supple, and all look 
clean and healthy. 

The little Japanese houses always make 
me think of the children's Noah's Arks. 
An excellent model is pictured in the ac- 
companying photograph. They are made 
of light portable material, and can be taken 
apart or put together at will. The partitions 
are simple screens, and there is no heavy 
furniture. In case of fire, the burning 
building is at once demolished, and its frag- 
ments are allowed to burn. If any other 
buildings take fire from the blaze, they meet 
a hke fate. There is no fire insurance, 
unless we except that in use in the city of 
Matsue, where upon each door is hung a 
charm to ward off fire. It consists of figures 
of two small foxes, a black fox and a white 
one, sitting facmg each other, with rice 



straw in their mouths, and the legend con- 
nected with it is as follows : — 

' ' W hen Naomasu, 
the grandson of lyeyasu , 
first came to Natsue to 
rule the province, there 
entered into his pres- 
ence a beautiful boy, 
who said : ' I came hither 
from the home of your 
august father in Echi- 
zen, to protect you from 
all harm. But I have no 
dwelling place, and am 
staying, therefore, at 
the Buddhist temple of 
Fumonin. Now if you 
will make for me a 
dwelling within the 
castle grounds, I will 
protect from fire the 
buildings there and the 
houses of the city and 
your other residence, likewise, which is in 
the capital; for I am Inari Shineymon. ' 
With these words, he vanished from sight. 
Therefore, Naomasu dedicated to him the 




Japanese Brass Temple Lanterns 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL-MAGAZINE 



great temple which still stands in the castle 
grounds, surrounded by one thousand 
stone foxes." 

The Japanese must be a very religious 
people, for they seem willing to worship 
anyone to whom a shrine has been erected. 
A certain woman had a husband killed at 
Osaka and lost her reason, after his death. 
From her window she would call in any man 
passing and, if his looks did not please her, 
she cut off his head. As her standard of 
masculine beauty was a high one, many 
suffered death at her hands before she went 
to join her victims, and now the blood- 
stained panels of her house are built into a 
shrine, and she has priests and followers to 
worship her as a deity. 

The national faith of Buddhism was 
grafted upon a mere ancient faith called 
Shinto, which still retains its hold upon the 
people. The accompanying illustration 
shows a Shinto shrine, with its rice paper 
ready for holy texts, its brazen dishes, its 
jar of rice flour, and its guardian lions, male 



and female, the male with open mouth, 
roaring, the female with mouth closed. 
Remember that these are Japanese symbols, 
and that, in Japan, the husband is the rec- 
ognized head of the house. It has occurred 
to me that, if those lions belonged in the 
United States, it might be more true to 
nature if their heads were exchanged with- 
out further remark ! 

As for Buddha, whose worship is the pre- 
vailing one, he is manifested in many forms. 
If you see a figure seated upon a lotus and 
holding a sword in its hand, that figure rep- 
resents Buddha the Immutable — Fate. 
His sword signifies intellect. The flicker- 
ing fire which is depicted about him means 
power. 

If you see a meditative divinity, with a 
coil of ropes in his hand, that is Buddha, 
the Controller, armed with ropes to bind 
the passions and desires. There is also a 
slumbering Buddha, wdth the sweetest, 
softest, gentlest, Japanese child face, with 
closed eyes and cheek pillowed upon the 




Shinto Shrine 



IN FAR JAPAN 



hand. This is Buddha in Nirvana. There 
is a Buddha with solemn face and authori- 




Japanese Lantern Made From a Fish 

tative gesture, one hand holding a vase, — 
Buddha, the All-Healer, Physician of Souls. 
Then there is the Japanese ^Madonna, Ki- 
vannon Sama, a lovely virgin figure repre- 
sented as standing upon a lily. 

The Buddhists were perhaps the finest 
monastery builders in the world. Where- 
ever we find them, in Thibet, Ceylon, 
China or Japan, you will find them located 
amid the choicest scenery. Still, there 
are reasons why a visit to a Buddhist mon- 
astery is not an unmixed 
delight. By their religion 
they are forbidden to 
destroy life in any shape. 

' ' How lovely ! ' ' says 
my gentle friend. 

Well, I don't know 
about that. A toad or a 
mouse, that has been 
given the run of the 
house for a hundred years, 
may not be objectionable, 
but when snakes and liz- 
ards have had their own 
way and order human 
beings about for several 
centuries, my fingers — 
unregenerate, non- Bud- 
dhistic fingers — yearn to 
institute a thorough 
house cleaning: ! And 



when you hang your coat upon a nail, and 
a centipede six inches long drops out of the 
sleeve, upon your return, you will agree 
with me. 

The shrines of Buddha have always an 
image of the god beside the altar. Here 
we have one upon either hand, — Buddha, 
the Immutable, and Buddha, the Control- 
ler. On the altar, we have the incense and 
the arrangements for making tea for Buddha, 
This must be made from the first water 
boiled after sunrise, each morning. The 
temple services are chanted by the priests 
and are neither interesting nor melodious. 

xA.t one temple hangs a fine old bell. It 
is a sacred bell, in which a god is said to 
dwell, and it has hung there for more than 
six hundred and sixty years. It is shaped 
like a cow bell, is about nine feet high by 
five in diameter, eight inches thick and cov- 
ered with Buddhist texts. When it is rung, 
which is done by striking it with a stick, its 
vibrations of sound last for at least ten 
minutes from one stroke ! 

The accompanying picture shows the lan- 
tern made from a peculiar kind of fish. The 
light shines out from eyes and mouth. Only 
one family of Buddhist priests have the 
right to make these lanterns, so you see that 
mxonopolies exist even in Japan. Human 




Ornaments Used in Japanese Temple 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



nature is much the same there, too, for I 
know of a wishing stone, covered with votive 
offerings, much esteemed by ladies desiring 
a family. There is likewise a shrine dear 
to the hearts of girls, for they know that 
offerings there insure them a good husband; 
but I know of no shrine that insures a good 
wife for any man. Perhaps no deity would 
undertake the task, lest the man should de- 
molish the shrine in his first fit of spite after 
marriage. 

Yes, human nature is still the same, but 
we forget it. We forget it, until it is brought 
home to us in some way like this. 

We enter one of the little toy, Noah's 
Ark houses. In a little alcove stands a 
cabinet, and on the cabinet a shrine, but 
there is no image inside. It has only a 
wooden tablet, where the image should be, 
and wrapped around the tablet a band of 
white, rice paper inscribed with the name of 
a dead, baby girl. There is a vase of fresh 
flowers, a tiny print of Madonna Kivannon, 
Goddess of Mercy, and a cup filled with 
ashes of incense. All around are gathered 
the playthings, odd Japanese toys of the 
dead child. We seem to see her quaint 



black head and smiling face; and a lump 
comes up in our throat, as the slender, little 
mother, in her sweeping robes, stands by 
the shrine and prays. 

Again on our homeward way, through the 
soft, twilight mist, we pause for a moment 
on the parapet of the bridge. In the midst 
of my reverie, I become aware that white 
fragments, as of paper, are falling into the 
water from the fingers of a woman who 
stands a little further down the bridge. In 
a sweet, low voice she is praying for her 
dead child, and at the same time she drops 
the papers into the running water below. 
On the paper is a little picture of Jizo, and 
the words, "For the sake of Her," using 
the soul name of the dead child, not the 
pet, family name by which she was known 
during her brief, bright hfetime. Supersti- 
tion ? Think not of it, but of the awful 
mystery of death, and of a mother' s heart- 
ache: 



" Ah, child ! Our skins may be black or white, 

Or brown, or yellow, or red ; 
But the heart's blood of each is a crimson tide, 

And salt are the tears we shed." 



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Buddhist's Shrine 



The Country of the Red Barns 



By ALIX THORN 



IT was at a sudden turn of the road, 
where the mountains showed up glori- 
ously, that I came upon her, a grey- 
eyed goddess seated on a high stone wall. 
A comfortable perch it would seem, for an 
accommodating white birch offered its broad 
trunk for a back, and her trim pumps rested 
on a flat mossy stone. She was, apparently, 
lost in contemplation of the blue panorama. 

*< Pardon me," I began, thrusting my 
pipe hastily into a pocket, ''but as I am a 
stranger here — perhaps you can tell me if 
I am on the post road, and headed for the 
Hartley Station?" 

The goddess of the grey eyes started at 
the sound of my voice, and flushed under 
her fine coat of tan, but answered demurely, 
without looking at me : < * Being very famihar 
with this part of Massachusetts I can direct 
you. You are on the post road, keep on 
'till you reach the cross roads, then take the 
right hand way, follow it for half a mile, 
and — oh, you can't fail to reach the sta- 
tion. It ' s freshly painted, ' ' she added as an 
afterthought, * ' an unholy green. ' ' 

* * One thing more before I set out, ' ' I 
began, * ' I would know how many grave- 
yards, family or otherwise, I am destined to 
pass before I reach that haven where I fain 
would be. My unwary feet have led me 
past at least twelve, I should say, within the 
last three hours, and I am hopelessly de- 
pressed. I am at a loss to know why this 
section of the country should be selected 
for a place of tombs. ' ' 

A flicker of a smile, quickly suppressed, 
passed over my companion's expressive 
face, as she replied: ''But one more ceme- 
tery is ahead of you, and that retired, so, 
possibly, you may not discover it. ' ' 

Yet, though the grey eyes persistently 
sought the mountains, I lingered, one does 
not often happen upon that rare combina- 
tion, a goddess and a view. 

' ' I have, ' ' I said, ' ' a shocking memory. 



those who know me best own to that, and 
I have entirely forgotten your painstaking 
directions. If, ' ' humbly, ' ' you would say 
them over again, and slowly, I would try to 
memorize them, or better yet," fumbling 
for a note book, "jot them down." 

' ' Oh, ' ' responded the goddess carelessly, 
"oh, I quite forgot that I am going in that 
direction, myself, so can guide you to the 
cross roads. We might meet a native 
there, who could convoy you the rest of 
the way." 

So, side by side we walked along the post 
road, a shaded way, sweet with the breath of 
fern and hemlock. The afternoon sunshine 
sought and found a coronal of chestnut 
braids, and lit them up most wonderfully. 
I found myself wishing that hats might 
never be in fashion in the summer, at least 
on post roads. 

Straightway the trees parted before us, 
and a broad valley, like a land of promise, 
lay at our feet. A gleaming river inter- 
sected it; comfortable homesteads, flanked 
by red bams, dotted the hills beyond, and 
a fresh wind swept up out of these green 
spaces and fanned our faces. With one 
accord we paused, silent for a full minute. 

"Behold," said she of the grey eyes, 
' ' behold the country of the red barns. ' ' 

< ' Oh, satisfying, ' ' I breathed, ' ' satisfy- 
ing and complete ! Why would n' t it be a 
fine idea to have a law compelling every 
third farmer to paint his barn red ? How 
immeasurably it adds to the picturesqueness 
of a landscape ! As the children say, ' I 
choose this,' " with a comprehensive wave 
of my hand towards the delectable valley. 

The beginning of a frown appeared be- 
tween the level brows of my guide. "I 
chose it long ago," she said with some 
spirit. "I can even show you my own 
especial farm house. There it is — no, look 
between those two chestnut trees — see, 
the farthest one near the Notch, with its 



113 



114 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



reddest of barns. I think, ' ' more to her- 
self than to me, ''that one who lived in 
that old house would be perfectly and en- 
tirely happy. So high, so wind-blown ! So 
apart, ' ' and springing to her feet, she was 
off and away down the post road. I fol- 
lowed at a respectful distance, one expects 
a goddess to be fleet of foot, and this one 
was no exception. It was not five minutes 
later that, with a terrible sinking of the 
heart, I saw before me the dividing ot the 
ways. The grey-eyed one had not only 
discovered it, but was waiting even now, 
tall and stately, by a sign post, this time 
an avenging goddess, as shesilently pointed 
down the road I was to take. 

/ ' There is no native in sight, ' ' I pleaded, 
«'you remember you held out more than a 
slight hope that one might be found to lead 
me after you gave me up. I have been 
■counting on that native, yes, more than I 
realized. Your plans have miscarried. 
Must, I ask you, must I wander off and be 
hopelessly confused on these unknown fear- 
some roads ? Tonight, when you, safe, 
seated in an ingle nook, hear the chill wind 
blowing over the mountains, think of a poor 
wanderer, lonely, hopeless, bewildered, ly- 
ing down among the leaves at last, wearied- 
out with a fruitless search for the station ! ' ' 
' ' A heart-breaking picture indeed, ' ' was 
her reply ! ' ' It quite recalls the babes in 
the wood. Well, I wi/l go as far as the 
cemetery, the station is then in sight." 

A relieved sigh was my acknowledgment, 
and again we took. up our Hne of march. 
" I fear," I began, " that my pitiful cow- 
ardice is taking you out of your way; per- 
haps your home, or Inn, or wherever you 
are staying, is not in this direction. " 

' ' 1 am within walking distance, ' ' replied 
the goddess, "and it is but seldom that 
one can play the part of a good Samaritan.'.' 
"How true that is," was my cordial re- 
joinder. " It gives one a peculiarly uplifted 
sensation, at service of a Sunday morning, 
to contemplate the good deeds done in the 
week past; one can, with fortitude, meet 
the Rector's roving eye, and look pityingly 
down at the Levite pew-holders in the vi- 
cinity. ' ' 



Just before us rose some massive stone 
entrance gates, and a wide driveway wound 
back among the trees. 

"A jolly looking place," I observed, 
" Do you know whose it is ? " 

"I've heard," answered grey eyes, 
studying the dusty road — " New Yorkers, 
I think." 

A distant toot, toot, sounded somewhere 
far up the drive. 

' ' Oh ! ' ' said my guide nervously, ' ' good 
bye — no, no I will, I must leave you now, 
please ! ' ' and she turned aside as if to enter 
a near-by meadow. But before she had 
time to make her escape, an automobile 
emerged from the gateway. Nearer it came 
and Tom Villiers' genial face beamed down 
on the pair of us. 

"Well, on my word !" he exclaimed, 
' ' Cynthia and Alec, bless you, my chil- 
dren, bless you ! I see it all now, you ' ve 
kissed and made up as you should have 
done two months ago. Oh, I knew that en- 
gagement could n' t stay broken long. Here 
was Cynthia hidden away up here with us, 
in the dumps most of the time — my, my, 
I was just starting out to look for the lost 
child, did n't know I should find her with 
her natural protector, so to speak ! Wel- 
come to The Birches, Alec ! Kittie and I 
will be delighted to put you up." 

' ' Why, you see,' ' I broke in, trying to 
stem the tide of his eloquence, and with an 
imploring look at my goddess — ' ' you see, 
Villiers, there has hardly been time, that is, 
of course, for — " 

"Nonsense," he cried, "my dear fel- 
low, not another word, we have room to 
burn, your traps can follow on. Why, man, 
you must see our new place, Cynthia, here, 
will persuade you. ' ' 

Cynthia's grey eyes looked up at me, 
softened as if by a mist of tears. 

"Oh, yes, he '11 come, Tom," she said 
airily, "he'll come, I've been showing 
him the country of the red barns, and do 
you know, we ' ve half decided upon an 
adorable old place that would do rarely for 
a country house, come along." She held 
out a slim hand to me, and the automobile 
bore us swiftly up the drive. 



The Profession of Housekeeping 



By DORA MA Y MORRELL 



IN the old times, when life was simple 
though its duties were many, every 
woman learned to keep house, the 
knowledge ])assing from mother to daughter 
in the natural course of events, and each 
followed it with such enthusiasm as was in- 
duced by her individual taste. Time was 
when the woman who "had no faculty" 
was one without high standing in her neigh- 
borhood, whatever might be her intellectual 
or moral endowments. She might be loved 
but always with a touch of pity. High and 
low, rich and poor, in the days when the 
country was young, each took her share in 
ordering the ways of her household and she 
had no "servant girl i)roblcm." 

With the dcveloi)ment of a leisure class, 
such as our wealthy members of society 
form, and with the thousands of business 
women who prefer other vocations to matri- 
mony, a new condition is met, for a woman 
may love a home though she may not marry, 
and may not feel that she can give her time 
to the making of one for herself alone. Since 
the morning of human life woman has been 
domestic in her trend, and she does not 
lose at once all the influences of centuries 
past because she seeks a broader freedom. 
Indeed, it may truthfully be stated that 
there are no home-staying women who love 
home any more than do the feminine toil- 
ers in schools, shoj^s and offices. Ilius has 
grown a demand for housekeepers, not ig- 
norant servants — the large supply of these 
is not because of the demand — but for 
housekeepers who are self-respecting women 
of character, executive ability, practical skill 
in housewife r}' and in management of ser- 
vants and supplies. Of such workers there 
are far too few to meet the call, and those 
who take up housekeeping with the training 
that equips them to meet its varying needs 
are turning housekeeping into a profession, 
using the disciplined mind and systematic 
management which are the foundations of 



success in every form of business life. 

There are few occupations today offering 
better financial returns to the woman wage- 
earner than that of housekee{)ing. The 
expert finds her niche in the large hotels 
and establishments of the very rich. The 
younger woman c[ualifies herself for these 
"plums" of the profession by entering as 
assistant housekeej)er, after she has served 
a partial ai)prenticeship in her own home or 
some other. She may make a good begin- 
ning as working housekeeper for some busi- 
ness woman who cannot aHord to keep a 
staff of servants; for, though the house- 
keeper who has teached the top round docs 
not do the actual handwork, she must know 
by experience how it should be d(nie, and 
by no better means can she gain this knowl- 
edge than by having it result from her per- 
sonal labor. She must have practiced for 
herself all the measures that are to lead her 
to ])crfection, and she will not forget that 
hers is the profession of housekeeping, to 
be dignified by the manner in which she 
makes the most of its possibilities. She will 
study, for she will realize that she has much 
of the theoretical as well as the practical to 
learn; she must understand the scientific 
principles that underlie all branches of 
housekeeping; she will know how to market, 
what to buy and when and where, to bring 
the largest returns for cash invested. Men 
spend much thought in their business and 
are glad to save half a cent on an article. 
This is not from meanness, but because it 
is through such small leaks as a half-cent 
here, a penny there, that the profits of a 
business ooze away. ITie same principle 
is applied to housekeeping when it passes 
out of the hands of the ignorant and un- 
skilled laborer. 

It may be cheaper to spend than to save, 
but she who grasps the business knows 
which course to take and why. She has no 
hesitation whether to buy in small or large 



115 



ii6 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



quantities, and knows how long supplies 
should last. She applies her chemistry in 
the many emergencies that arise in the 
household, whether it be to providing an 
antidote for some poison that has been 
taken by mistake, an application to a kitchen 
drain of the potash that will clear the pipes, 
to telUng the laundress how to get out stains 
or to set delicate colors in a fabric, or how 
to bring savor into rather tasteless cuts of 
meat; indeed, there is no place between 
attic and cellar where, some time, there will 
not be a call for the aid that chemistry alone 
can give. The professional housekeeper will 
know the best makes of household linens, 
and when these are sold to the buyer's ad- 
vantage, she has acquired to perfection the 
art of caring for and renewing these; she 
takes an account of stock once a year, to 
know how she stands with suppHes. Dishes 
and silver are kept shining, and she can 
teach her unskilled helper to wash them 
properly, which is a task seldom well done 
though done so often. She keeps in touch 
with new devices for the kitchen, table and 
allotherparts of the house. Though, when 
she becomes an expert housekeeper in any 
large establishment, she will have nothing 
to do with serving the table, she learns all 
about it, the care of wines, et caetera, on 
her progress upward. No knowledge comes 
amiss when one starts on a climb toward the 
top. She studies ventilation and house 
planning, and counts that day lost which 
passes with no gain to her in the equipment 
of herself for the best opportunities in her 
business. 

The practical training that a girl gets in 
the home of an expert housekeeper is the 
best beginning possible for one who cannot 
attend a school of domestic science, and it 
has some advantages over this, since the 
worker is paid while gaining proficiency. 
She is getting experience and that is worth 
more than theory alone, and she can study 
daily from the text books of the school. 
After she has absorbed all she can from the 
home housekeeper she will do well to get a 
subordinate position in a first-class hotel. 
It does not matter greatly what it may be 
since, wherever she is, she can study the 



methods of the housekeeper and get prac- 
tical knowledge of how to allot work among 
many servants, and what belongs to each, 
and what should be the duties done for each 
day. A perfect housekeeper should be 
able to plan the work for a family of any size, 
with any number of servants, and unless she 
can do this and keep her assistants to what 
is planned for them the household machin- 
ery never will run without a jar. 

One personal characteristic a girl must 
have, if she would rise in this occupation, 
one quite as necessary as technical skill: 
she must have perfect self-control, i. e. , 
be ' ' mistress of herself though china fall ' ' 
The woman who cannot govern herself 
can never govern others, and the house- 
keeper who rises to the best her profession 
offers may be called upon to oversee fifty 
or even more servants; hence, the evident 
necessity of self-poise, and a cool head, with 
temper held firmly in check. This need is 
common to all workers and must be met 
before one reaches the highest point of 
success. 

The rewards given in the profession of 
housekeeping are many. Even from the 
first step the pay is good, compared with 
that of girls in offices and stores, and it in- 
creases with the efficiency of the worker, 
and her force of character. When she has 
risen to the position where she directs others 
she has her own sitting room, bedroom and 
bath. She is an important member of the 
family, prized highly, though she may not 
live in intimate relation with its members. 
Few families have the intimacy of social life 
with their employees, since this familiarity 
is the result of like pursuits and interests; 
but no one, who has within herself the ca- 
pacity of self mastery, the power of control 
over others,and that kind of education which 
constitutes the equipment of the profes- 
sional housekeeper, need ever fear that she 
will not be valued for what she is; she knows 
her worth and knows, too, that it will make 
itself felt wherever she may be. No woman 
should take up any calling in life who can- 
not be happy unless she makes it also a 
social relation, for the two often are incom- 
patible from their natures. 



A Chemical Conscience 



By HELEN CAMPBELL 



w 



HAT is needed for -the woman 
movement at large, the women 
in or out of it, I ought to say, 
— rich or poor, high or low, is a chemical 
conscience. ' ' 

The voice was soft yet clear and full, and 
the face of its owner fair to look upon, with 
eyes that could gauge the values in what 
life offered, and waste no time on shams or 
half-way methods. There was mirth in 
them too, a smile that might be quizzical or 
tender as the case demanded, but that be- 
gan there first of all, and was no affair of 
the lips merely. 

*'She can flay you alive, neatly and 
thoroughly," whispered a hearer, "and 
you barely know what she is about, when 
she smiles at you her way, but what is it 
she's after now? " 

''Hush, and you'll find out," her 
neighbor answered, and settled to full at- 
tention. In fact they all did, this big Com- 
mittee on Household Economics for the 
great Club, which, among its always in- 
creasing activities, counted their cooking 
school, and the lecture course by experts 
on all phases of house and home, as second 
to nothing it could offer, and added as 
equally important another, on their general 
relations as citizens to the beautiful town in 
which they had become a power. 

The speaker had paused a moment as 
she spoke the words, "a chemical con- 
science," and smiled as she looked about 
her. 

' ' It ' s just a simple straightforward fact, ' ' 
she went on, though it may sound as if 
it had some relation to occult mysteries. 
But I mean just a minutely trained con- 
science on the practical side of things, for 
that is what the study of chemistry does for 
one or gives one; helps at every turn for 
this complex business of modern house- 
keeping. In this case it is a matter of gas 
that I have been studying through my 



neighbor' s mind, her husband, a professor 
of chemistry at our university across the 
river, and she a devoted student and teacher 
of it before her marriage, born to it, we 
ought to say, for you all know her father is 
famous in the same fines. Salaries, you 
also know, are rather low over there, and 
she, naturally free-handed and lavish, has 
had to learn just what each dollar will do. 
So, when we had our talk over it all, I 
asked her if I might give it to you, and she 
said, with all her heart, and she wished she 
could teach a gas class how to lessen the 
bills, yet have the utmost satisfaction in 
the returns from them, 

" First of all, then, " she began, ' 'comes a 
study of the meter, which, if it lies, does so 
because we have not learned how to make 
it tell the truth. There is a theory too, 
that the setting and handfing of it are a 
secret with the company. It may be so, 
though the gas man who gave me my first 
lesson made no secret of it, but on the 
contrary urged me to watch the whole 
process, and ask all the questions I wanted 
to. To begin with you have to remember 
that the pressure is very different in the 
day time, which is the time the men are 
doing their work, than in the evening. 
You've got to regulate your meter so it 
will give you all you want, but not a bit 
more. So then, the first thing is to turn 
on full, and light all the gas jets in the 
house, and the kitchen range too, if it is a 
gas one — and the supply for it comes 
through the same meter. If there are jets 
you hardly expect will be needed at all, 
just leave them out. It takes two to do 
the job, one to watch the lights upstairs, 
and somebody watching the meter and 
gradually turning off the gas. A key is 
furnished with every meter, by which a cock 
can be turned in the pipe at the side, and 
so regulate the amount going in to a T. Of 
course whoever is doing it, has to find out 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



how the lights are burning, If there was 
high pressure to begin with, the gradual 
turning oif of course stops the unnecessary- 
flare. If the lights grow at all. dim, you 
turn the meter on a little and leave it. 
There ' s enough pressure then to give you 
always a full light and not an atom of 
waste. 

That is the way we began, and then we 
had a season of trying the illuminating 
power of various kinds of burners, mantles, 
etc. , noting how many cubic feet were con- 
sumed in an hour. We all like light, and 
indeed, must have it with our big family, 
but we must also keep the bills reasonable. 
At last we found the right thing and you 
may have noticed that the shades are ar- 
ranged to throw the light on desk or table, 
wherever we may happen to be working. 
A ground glass globe is just an obscurer of 
light, one of our burners is equal to three 
of that sort of inadequacy, i Then each 
person in the house, from the eight-year- 
old up, is taught to turn down at once any 
burner that is not then needed, even if it 
be only for a short time. It keeps the air 
purer as well as saves a good deal in a 
month. 

The gas range if run by a thriftless ser- 
vant may mean ten or twelve dollars a 
month, and mostly waste. It is the law, 
then, that a burner shall not be kept going 
a single unnecessary moment. It is under- 
stood that, as soon as a pot begins to boil, 
the gas can be lowered greatly without 
stopping the process. , A double boiler, or 
a steamer is also an immense saving, for in 
the latter half a dozen things can be cooked 
at once with no mixture of flavors, if each 
article is put in a screw-top jar; dried fruit 
cooked in this way is especially delicious. 
Dishes, can be kept hot in the steamer and 
so save the waste of gas in the oven, and 
toasting can be done perfectly on top by 



using the fine wire toasters, instead of the 
jets under the oven as I used to do. 

Washing and ironing meant the heaviest 
expense of all, at first, but now the woman 
is trained to turn down the gas as soon as 
the clothes begin to boil. For the ironing 
there comes a little stand holding four irons, 
instead of the old way of putting, two on a 
burner, and we saved the cost of these 
things within the first month. A trained 
chemist will not admit that waste is to be 
tolerated anywhere, nor is it allowed in any 
chemical experiment; I mean by expert 
chemists. There is nothing that remains that 
cannot be made to help do something else, 
and each economy in the house is a sort of 
jubilee, a saving at one point allowing or 
helping out some needed expenditure at 
another. That is why a chemically trained 
conscience should be given to every woman 
capable of receiving even the beginnings of 
one. Our bills are the smallest on the 
campus, and we certainly have better light 
than any of them, so that I have been 
called extravagant, and have instantly asked 
the accuser what her methods are, and 
then told as much of mine as she or he cared 
to hear. The gas bill collector says I 'm 
gradually lowering all the bills and he's 
glad that there are not any more chemical 
professors, for a town full of them would 
bring down gas dividends. The substance 
of it all is that trained knowledge goes as 
far in this matter asdn all the rest of the 
general problem, which we intend to see 
shah cease to be a problem; every girl who 
marries or who doesn't, is to be made mis- 
tress, first, of herself, then of everything 
she may deal with in her house, whether 
of one room or twenty. But that is an- 
other story. To-day is just a report as to 
what a chemical conscience stands for. 
Heaven give to all of us as much as we are 
capable of acquiring. ' '• 








w^m.mm^'^ 



im-k 









The Prosaic Broom 

^7 MJ^S. LOUISE TABER 



Tr- 



;^ Q}.C^. 




THE broom is peculiarly a woman's 
weapon, though facetious persons of 
the opposite sex are quite ready _to 
declare her most ready defender would seem 
to be her tongue. We will, however, ignore 
such jocularity and repeat that the broom 
is woman's own weapon, with which she 
keeps at bay those fell enemies of her house- 
hold, dust and microbes. 

Homer mentions the broom in the Odys- 
sey, telling us how the maids, as the breakfast 
cooked before the open fire, swept the floor 
and removed all traces of the feast given 
the night before, thus showing the broom 
to be an article of great antiquity. It is ■ 
safe to surmise that the broom of that re- 
mote time was a very primitive affair in com- 
parison with the well-made kitchen broom, 
whisk broom or patent sweeper of today. 
Indeed, without doubt, a woman of even 
one hundred years ago, would have laughed 
heartily, could she have seen the broom upon 
which it was my pleasure to gaze for a short 
time today. But why should there not be 
evolution in brooms ? 

This particular broom, of ordinary kitchen 
variety, was quite glorified by a gayly striped 
and be-rufiled bag of outing flannel, which 
was slipped over it and tied closely about 
the handle with a draw string. It invited 
my attention while making an early morning 
call upon an exceedingly charming young 
matron, who, attired in a Dutch blue ging- 
ham dress, and a frilly dusting cap, was 
vigorously wielding it in dusting down the 
walls of the cheery living-room in her pretty 
little home. At the same time she was 



humming to a merry tune of her own im- 
provisation the following words: 

" For when I've done the room," she says, 
" And cleaned it all from floor to ceiling, 

A-leaning on my broom," she says, 
" I do have such a tired feeling." 

Threatening instant departure, should she 
desist in her work, I was comfortably en- 
sconced near the doorway of the room ad- . 
joining, while my hostess continued in her 
homely, and somewhat unwonted task. 

''Your looks behe the words of your 
song," I ventured, ''for you appear as 
fresh as a — a — " ' daisy of course, ' ' ' she 
laughingly prompted, as I mentally floun- 
dered in search of a more original simile. 

' ' Perhaps I radiate the freshness of a 
recent discovery, for while deeply sympa- 
thizing with the mother of Polly Anuy who 
is veiy ill, I can but rejoice, ' ' she continued 
after having paused long enough to make a 
frantic dab at an obdurate cobweb, ' ' at the 
knowledge of brooms that I have gleaned 
during the prolonged absence of that faith- 
ful maid. ' ' 

"Why," said she in the impressive 
manner of one about to make a startling 
statement, "I've actually been paying her 
wages for doing that, for the learning of 
which a considerable sum of money has 
been transferred from my pocketbook to 
that of a physical culture instructor." 

Poising lightly on one foot she made an 
unconscious picture of grace as she thrust 
the broom ceiling-ward in a far reach for 
another cobweb. ' ' This, ' ' she explained, 
' ' is almost identical with an exercise which 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



we were taught imparted special graceful- 
ness to the figure." Standing firmly on 
both feet, she again lifted the broom on high, 
swaying it too and fro as she removed im- 
aginary dust from a goodly length of picture 
molding, thereby exercising the neck, chest, 
arms and waist. ^ ' Stooping to sweep care- 
fully under immovable pieces of furniture 
and to pick up stray threads which cling 
here and there to the floor, with that ob- 
stinacy seemingly belonging only to things 
inanimate, ' ' she explained with pretty earn- 
estness, *'both tend to reduce the waist 
measurement, and afford most beneficial 
exercise to the bowels, greatly aiding in 
their peristaltic motion. While the sweep- 
ing of a floor, if done properly, with firm, 
even strokes, furnishes excellent exercise 
for the muscles of both abdomen and 
back." 

Baring a pretty white arm to the shoulder 
and bending it to plunge out the muscles 
in a truly pugilistic manner, she declared 
that it had never possessed such strength 
as after this novitiate in the art of sweep- 
ing, dusting and general housework. 



''I've learned, too," she exclaimed en- 
thusiastically, ''that the woman with a 
broom can, if she directs her best thought 
and effort to the work in hand, doing it 
willingly and cheerfully, derive as much of 
a certain kind of joy and satisfaction from 
this humble occupation, as when seated at 
the piano she executes a Rhapsody of Liszt 
or some other favorite number." 

"It is a wise provision, however," she 
continued after a thoughtful pause, "for 
every woman who has much to do with a 
broom, to keep among her collection a men- 
tal whisk broom or two, as it were, in the 
shape of hobbies upon which she maymount 
and for a time each day gallop far from the 
routine of household cares. 

"And now, dear, patient lady," said 
my young enthusiast with a dramatic wave 
of a blue-sleeved arm, "lest you begin to 
fear that my only hobby is a broom and at 
any moment I may emulate the 'old 
woman ' mentioned in a certain childhood 
jingle, and fly away to brush the cobwebs 
from the sky, let us change the subject 
while I dust the piano." 



When Patty Cooks 

By GRACE STONE EIELD 

Patty ' s in the kitchen, making apple pies, 
Tied up in an apron, almost to her eyes. 
With a little moulding board and a rolling-pin; 
(Bridget cuts the crust around and puts the filling in.) 



Come and kiss the little cook and taste her apple tart. 
" Sure; — she made it all herself, bless her little heart." 
(Bridget only makes the paste and stirs the sugar in; 
Patty does the rest herself, ev'ry single thing. ) 



Didn't Mean To 



By KATE GANNETT WELLS 



OF all aggravating excuses this is 
the most futile, and it is all the 
more provoking because, if one 
did n't mean to, then she cannot be 
** jumped upon" and has to be forgiven 
in appearance, if not in reality. Of course, 
the maid didn't mean to break the cup 
handle nor to let the coffee boil over on 
the freshly blacked stove, as innocent 
looking she expressed her regret for the 
accidents. Nor did the guest mean to 
spill the ink on the carpet nor to upset 
her glass of water on the clean tablecloth. 
Nor did the honest woman mean to offend 
when she told her friend she ''looked like 
a fright, ' ' or that ' ' she was so queer or awk- 
ward, " or ' ' too fat, "or " too thin, ' ' or 
' ' had not any sense. ' ' It was all said ' ' in 
good part, ' ' as encouraging the friend to 
take more pains; all the same it hurt. 

The way families upset one another, not 
meaning to, is marvelous. The sturdy lover 
of early rising, who has pulled herself to- 
gether, does not comprehend why every- 
body else is so glum at breaklast. But 
the tired mother, who already has got much 
of the day's work done, does not under- 
stand how folks can be so chatty at the 
morning meal. Each blames it on the 
other and does not really mean anything. 
Fathers get rubbed the wrong way, unless 
they are undergoing the treatment of be- 
ing wheedled. Children get care and 
love but never praise; (it is not good for 
them it is said,) they are just told the 
truth, explains the parent, who does not 
mean to make her child shrink more than 
ever within herself. Yet most persons, 
young and old, are worth at least one compli- 
ment a day, though they consider them- 
selves lucky if they get one a year. Mothers 
grow haggard, fathers grow morose, boys 
and girls grow indifferent, all because each 
is constantly hurt by the other, from lack 
of clear seeing that there is always time 



for, and a way in which to say things, pro- 
vided they must be said, without hurting, 
as words can hurt when hurled at one 
carelessly, and without meaning to give 
real pain. '' Why ! I did n't suppose you 
would care, I did n' t really mean to, ' ' is 
scanty balm for sore feelings, when the 
sense of justice has been outraged. 

So much does happen that one did n't 
mean. Even the cow that upset the lamp, 
which kindled the Portland (Maine) fire 
years ago, did n' t mean to. The magpie, 
which stole its lady' s rings, did n' t mean 
to have the detectives called. The boy, 
who threw kerosene on the fire to light it, 
did n't mean to burn down the house. 
The girl, who broke the hearts of two 
simultaneous lovers, didn' t mean to ruin 
their lives. The man, convicted of man- 
slaughter, did n't mean murder. The hun- 
ter, who killed his guide, mistaking him 
for a deer, didn' t mean to. So it goes, 
all up and down and contrariwise, through 
life. Nobody means harm, and everyone 
does harm, and then excuses it as not be- 
ing intentional, which is only the shadow 
of an excuse, for one ought to know better. 

Ever so much good material is lost 
through didn't mean to. The bread is 
baked too hard, the potatoes boiled too 
soft, the blanc mange has no cohesion, 
the cloth is wasted and the dress is too 
short or too long. Neither cook nor seam- 
stress meant to produce a poor result; it is 
the outcome either of ignorance or care- 
lessness and they expect to be excused, 
and are, because most of us are cowards 
and dare not speak our minds, lest we get 
hit back. We are too lenient in our 
housekeeping, and, therefore, mistakes will 
be frequent, just as long as we neither know 
how ourselves, nor insist on others know- 
ing how. 

Did n' t mean to is usually the result of 
carelessness or being in a hurry, (since 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



accidents never happen of themselves,) 
which the alleged lack of motive does not 
justify. Yet as Newton would not be 
angry with his dog, so we take refuge 
in merely being sorry, not vindictive, 
when our letters are mislaid, our bric-a- 
brac broken, our dresses stepped on, and 
ourselves wounded. 

Still the question presses, how far is ig- 
norance culpable ? Not at all in children 
playing with matches, we say, and then 
pause before we add, — and in persons 
without sensibihty. Still, while no one wants 
to cultivate over sensitiveness, a certain de- 
gree of it is essential to proper regard for 
one' s self, as any real lack of it is due to 
neglect of the finer emotions and to want 
of perception. If we cannot or will not 
feel, we at least ought to realize that other 
people can. 

Much depends on early training. Deaf 
persons, who read on the faces of others 
what they are saying, show what can be 
learned just by observing. To say that an- 
other has no imagination or did not ' 'sense' ' 
what she said is constantly offered as ex- 
cuse for unkind words. But the speaker 
did sense, and did not care. She may not 
have meant to hurt, but, if she did, she did 
not care. That is where much of the trouble 
hes. Having been jostled herself until 
she has grown callous, she has deliberately 
ignored putting herself in sorne one else's 
place, justifying her onset of words and mi- 
nor rudenesses by declaringpeople ought not 
to mind things. Very likely she was wronged 
even in her childhood and so pays it back 
on others, for parents too often foolishly try 
to harden their children, that later they may 
not suffer from the rebuffs of others. It 
is such a pity. No body really gets hard- 
ened, only coarsened. The hardening 
process is very different from taking things 
as a joke. Even that is often carried too 
far, since practical jokes are not witticisms, 



though the give and take in harmless ban- 
ter is all very well, even jolly, if one knows 
when to stop. 

This did n' t-mean-to apology is a national 
weakness. We are a weakly, good-humored 
people. We accept excuses and broken 
contracts as we do fatalities and chipped 
dishes. We are used to railroad acci- 
dents, yet nothing ever happens of itself, 
not even spontaneous combustion; an in- 
animate something always causes it. We 
ought to exact more from others and from 
ourselves. If it is annoying to have to put 
up with maudlin apologies it is contemptible, 
to offer them ourselves to others and still 
more to ourselves. They just make u?, po- 
seurs to ourselves as we grow limp minded, 
vacillating and shuffling, hitching along 
somehow, never meaning to go to the bad, 
or to break a glass, or tear a dress, or hurt 
another's feelings; and of course we did not 
mean to forget and, then, — we are so sur- 
prised, when any or all of such conse- 
quences ensue. 

Furthermore, religion has so preached 
the obligation of pure motives, and legal 
formalisms have so narrowed the scope of 
intention, that, with dire trouble happening 
because of what we did not mean to do, we 
still do not blame ourselves, relying upon 
the self-estimated nobleness of our motives 
and our freedom from any intention of do- 
ing what we did. It is subtlety in evasion, 
coupled with this sureness as to the un- 
changing worthiness of our motives, that 
gives the glibness to the phrase, didn't 
mean to. Not until we are ready to con- 
cede that forgetfulness in normal adults is 
one form of carelessness, that carelessness 
is reprehensible, and that weak good humor 
is folly, shall we cease to use those words. 
And then we shall be as ashamed to utter 
them, as we are now (or ought to be) to 
declare a falsehood, in order to conceal mis- 
haps we have caused. 




Told Through the Mail 

By MYRA WILLIAMS JARRELL 
Part I 



MiLTONVILLE, Mo., AUG. 5TH, 1907. 

My dearest Lela: 

Now that I can pause to take breath, 
I will fulfill my promise to tell you all about 
it. In the first place, being the safety valve 
by which the megrims escape me, you know 
why we came to this place to live. 

Dissatisfaction with Billy's position on 
the Herald was the principal motive. I 
have too often, in the lonely evenings, 
poured out myself to you on paper, for 
you ought to know that being the city ed- 
itor for a paper like that one, was a thank- 
less grind. Billy, being good-natured, as 
most men of his bulk are, allowed himself 
to be "buffaloed ' ' by the proprietor of the 
paper, who, needless to say, was a little 
man. 

Billy' s employer was in the same set so- 
cially as we were, but, financially, a great 
gulf yawned between us. Besides being 
a natural born money-getter, he had had a 
fortune bequeathed to him, as fortunes go 
in the west. Really, I suppose he is en- 
titled to his prosperity, but he might have 
given Billy a fair deal! 

As you know, Billy and I parted with 
the home at Sumner, in order to save what 
we could from the wreckage, and make a 
fresh start. We are not over young for a 
fresh start, but we decided that we would 
be no younger next year, or five years 
hence. We simply could not go on as we 
were doing. Our taxes, servant hire and 
other living expenses were almost in excess 
of our income. 

I could have married for money, as you 
know, and had nearly been ensnared into 
that particular brand of unhappiness, — 
when I saw Billy! And, — well, you have 
seen Billy, — so what need to say more? It 
was all up with me the first time I ever saw 
him. Yet Billy is not what one would call 
a handsome man; he is just Billy ! 



It was a wrench, Lela dear, to part with 
our house. There we were, with only that 
stretch of lawn and the magnificent trees 
between us, and the dear old home, where 
my care-free childhood, my happy girlhood, 
and gay young v/omanhood, were passed. 

The dear old house, with its large wan- 
dering rooms, — (you remember how people 
used to laugh at Papa for adding a new 
room every year?), — the immense back 
parlor, in the bay window of which, amid 
a bower of apple blossoms, the Bishop pro- 
nounced the binding words, which have ne- 
cessitated my keeping tab of Billy' s laun- 
dry list for these last ten years — can't you 
see that I ' m only being frivolous, because 
I must do something to keep back the re- 
bellious tears ? 

And I have brought all my philosophy to 
bear upon the subject (though, to be sure, 
I did turn my head aside so as not to see 
the httle home the last time I was in Sum- 
ner), and I shall not pity myself, nor allow 
even you, my dearest friend, to pity me. 
Besides, have I not Billy and my blessed 
children? What more could any woman 
want ? 

I am not going to write another word, 
though I started out to describe my new 
home, and have used up your time and my 
paper, in talking of the old one. 
Ever fondly, 

Marion. 

Aug. 20, 1907. 
Dear Girl: 

At any rate, you did not have to wait as 
long for the next chapter, as in a monthly 
installment magazine story. And if, as you 
say, I have fired your curiosity, I am flat- 
tered. Yet you cannot accuse me of leav- 
ing my heroine suspended in mid air over 
a chasm while the villain is reaching for his 
knife to sever the rope. (Indeed, indeed, 



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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



I did ;2^/ peruse those "Police Gazettes," 
which were Billy's share in the pickings at 
the Herald office). 

The worst I did to my heroine, which is 
myself, of course, was to leave her sus- 
pended in the act of getting her house set- 
tled. Was it not characteristic of me to sit 
right down in the mess and write to you ? 

And what a job it has been! I stood on 
the porch of our new habitation to direct 
the moving, and not a thing would I per- 
mit to enter the house till the rugs and 
mattings were down. The men dumped 
about four loads of boxes, crates, furni- 
ture, etc., in the front yard, — and the floor 
stuffs, of course, were in the last load. 

The chaos of the next few days is too 
horrible to dwell upon. One day, after 
having converted the Hving room into some 
semblance of a human habitation, while dis- 
order reigned supreme in every other room, 
Billy came in with a loose bunch of exqui- 
site pink roses which the dearest old lady 
(I cannot say ''woman" in connection 
with her, — it is too harsh a word) in the 
world, had given him for me. 

I nearly had hysterics over the lovely 
things. I put them in a vase, and set them 
on a table in the living room, — and presto, 
— the whole color of the day was changed 
for me. Every time I went near that room 
I peeped in at the dear things, and they 
never failed me once. The fragrance they 
wafted to me, the brightness they made in 
the room, the thoughtfulness they repre- 
sented, warmed my heart and gladdened it 
all through the day. 

There are drawbacks, — ah, yes, there 
are drawbacks, to this new home. We 
have come from a city of 50,000 people to 
1 town of 4,000. From having had every 
2onvcnience in our home, limited though 
our income was, we have come to live in a 
house without water, furnace or lights, — 
not even a sink in the kitchen! 

The first week I was here I went hungry 
for a bath. But I have learned how to 
bathe in a bowl, and really it's not half 
bad. And we have bought a portable tin 
tub, which is set up religiously every Sat- 
urday night in the kitchen, and poor Billy 



fills and empties it before and after each 
bath. 

It's as good as any bath while you 're 
taking it. The only thing is that it ' s a little 
hard on Billy, and I wouldn't like to ask 
him to fix it oftener than once a week. 

They do have electric lights in the town, 
but they are poor and expensive (just like 
we were, in Sumner), so we shall burn 
lamps. I shouldn't like to clean them 
though, I told Billy I was afraid it would 
make the biscuits taste of kerosene oil, if 
I cleaned and filled lamps. He said I 
should never have that to do, as that 
would be his work. 

That ' s one thing that ' s so comfortable 
about Billy. I have but to hint that some- 
thing is unpleasant to me, and he squares 
those broad shoulders of his and pre- 
pares to shield me from it. 

The Httle paper Billy bought with the 
house money is a good-paying pronosition. 
We may never become rich, but, at any rate, 
he will make more than a living, and then 
his industry and ability are going into some- 
thing for himself, instead of making money 
for another man no smarte. than himself, 
but who, by reason of accident and design, 
is better fixed financially. 

We rent our house of an unmarried wo- 
man doctor. She has an abundance of 
sentiment, and the quaintest way of ex- 
pressing it. She loves this house, where 
she spent eighteen happy years with her 
father and mother, and she has the same 
tender care for it that a mother has for her 
babe. She was pleased to see that I was 
coming into it with the feeling that it was 
home^ not merely a stopping place. 

And truly I shall feel so about it. It is 
so restful and quiet, with green grass, fine 
old trees in the front yard, and the back 
made shady with fruit trees. I have se- 
lected the spot where I shall hang my ham- 
mock next summer; near the children ' s tent, 
so that their sweet voices shall lull me into 
the imaginable mood in which I scale the 
heights, and sing my happiness from the 
mountain peaks of fancy. 

But a sober second thought suggests 
that the time I plan to spend in the ham- 



TOLD THROUGH THE MAIL 



125 



mock shall, instead, be more usefully em- 
ployed in washing dishes, to say nothing 
of concocting the wherewithal to feed the 
mortal bodies of my man and children. 

They say that a servant is unknown, al- 
most, in Miltonville. Two women have 
<' hired girls. " Some would have, but 
cannot find them. Others, -who might 
have wished it years ago, have settled into 
the harness of domestic work without a 
murmur. 

Time was, in the days when I skimmed 
the coffee carefully from the water, as it 
rose to the top, as I had seen my mother 
do in making jellies, — when the extent of 
my culinary accomplishments was welsh 
''rabbit," — that I would have taken a 
stand and declared that I would not\>^ any 
body's slave. But that was before I had 
seen Billy. 

It would be rankest hypocrisy to pretend 
to you, who have patiently listened to all 
my joys and sorrows for years, that I would 
enjoy doing my own work. You know, and I 
know, that I am a sybarite by nature. And 
we both know that the life I led in Sumner, 
with always competent help, and every 
comfort in my home, did not tend toward 
ascetism. 

This change will be a wholesome one for 
me. I could not be a sybarite here, if I 
chose. One by one, I am being helped by 
an All-wise Providence, to cb'p off a weak- 
ness here, a foolishism there. In the end, 
I may look like a plucked fowl, but, if it 
makes for mental and moral strength, the 
effort will not have been in vain. 

Why do you encourage me to chatter 
on ? Here it is time to peel the potatoes 
for dinner, and I am sitting gossiping with 
you about myself. That ' s the worst about 
me. I gossip so much more about myself 
than I do about other people. 

I have become addicted to the use of 
rubber gloves. I call it no sin to protect 
your hands, when they are your best fea- 
ture. It would break my heart if my hands 
became so rough and red that Billy no 
longer exclaimed when holding them, ' ' You 
have the most beautiful hands I ever 
saw ! ' ' 



Next time I shall certainly have to tell 
you more about the town and the people 
therein. 

As ever, lovingly, 

Marion. 

Miltonville, Aug. 25, 1907. 
Lela Dear: 

Your eagerness to know more of this 
town has fired my ambition to try and do 
justice to it. As the train pulls in, the 
beauty of the town, lying close up against 
small hills, the houses peering out from a 
perfect wilderness of forestry, catches at 
one's heart. It truly is one of the most 
picturesque places I ever saw, a place of 
old trees and old civilization. 

The business part of the town is built 
around a square of perfect beauty, marred 
by the court house, an old brick building, 
which is the one blot on the landscape. 

It's an enterprising little town in some 
ways — advertising being one of the ways, 
as we have learned to our great delight. In 
others it is sadly lacking. The retired 
farmers, rich all of them, being entirely 
satisfied with conditions as they are, and 
fearful of any additional taxation, regularly 
vote down the water works proposition. 
Hence this town lacks that one essential to 
comfort. It is a most moral town. We 
even have to send to Sumner for alcohol, 
with which to make coffee in the percolator, 
and for the chafing dish. 

I am hardly yet settled. The corners of 
the upper rooms are piled with things for 
which I have not yet found places, but the 
downstairs rooms are in order. The ex- 
perience of the past week has taught me to 
drop everything and make myself and the 
baby presentable after lunch, as we may ex- 
pect callers — they having allowed us ample 
time, by Miltonville standards, in which to 
be completely settled. They little know 
with what a poor, blind worm they have to 
deal, who grubs all day, without accom- 
plishing much. 

I have decided to alter our program, and 
fall into the Miltonville habit of dining in 
the middle of the day, with a pick-up 
[Coniimied on page xiv) 



126 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street, . Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, ^i.oo per Year, Single Copies, ioc 

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TO SUBSCRIBERS 

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date on which your subscription expires : it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
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Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 

THE FEW OR THE MANY 

IN all economic questions the drift 
of sentiment to-day is in regard to 
the benefit of the many rather than 
the few. The docrine of "a remnant" 
' ' a chosen few, " is no longer tenable. It 
is not only vain but unscientific. The 
Creator of the Universe is no respector of 
persons. " His designs must be regarded 
as strictly just and impartial. No longer 
are kings thought to reign by divine right, 
unless their right to rule has been ratified 
by the popular will. The feudal ages 
could not bear the light of progress and 
passed away in ridicule and contempt. Gov- 
ernment is by the will of the many and 
for the good of all. Any law or act of 
legislation that favors the few at the ex- 



pense of the many, is manifestly unfair 
and unjust; it can not long endure. Such 
a policy does not savor of our free institu- 
tions, where classes and class distinctions 
are supposed not to exist. Certainly they 
are not sanctioned by the laws of the state. 
In this day and generation the sole stan- 
dard of superiority is based on merit. 
Effort of worth is rewarded. Trust and 
confidence are placed in character alone. 
That the few should prosper greatly, while 
the many are picking away at the crumbs 
of prosperity, points to the need of a re- 
vision in our economic policy. We are 
simply facing the wrong way. The means 
of access to the good things of earth, 
should be open to all. No other than 
natural barriers are tolerable. The idea 
of a special class, a favored few, is incon- 
sistent with modern thought, science and 
experience. An editorial writer has sum- 
marized the matter thus: 

''The difficulty with this doctrine of 
' the remnant ' is that it has gone by. 
When men beheved that all humanity 
came from a single pair, that God had 
his "chosen people," that some are 
elected to be saved and the many to be 
damned, that the only divine revelation 
was to Jews, and that Anglo-Saxons were 
created to rule the earth, it was easier then 
for the few to decide that they were the 
only honest or conscientious persons in 
the nation. ' ' 



CONCERNING THE GENTLEMAN 

ONE night at a European hotel an 
accident occurred and an alarm was 
given at which the inmates came 
hurriedly together into the court. ' ' What 
is it ? " inquired one of another near him. 
That other gave the inquirer a supercilious 
stare and summoned a servant to answer. 
" How was I to know," says the relater, 
''that he was a prince ? He had not his 
crown and sceptre on. ' ' Most pertinent 
inquiry ! How are we to know in similar cir- 
cumstances that one is a gentleman except 
by the crown and sceptre of his becoming 
behavior ? That prince was one of the class 



EDITORIALS 



127 



described by Hawthorne as ' ' Sunday gen- 
tleman, ' ' by Thackeray as snobs. 

Mr. Froude says of Carlyle, "He would 
not condescend to the conventional polite- 
nesses which remove the frictions between 
man and man. ' ' That was the trouble with 
Carlyle, first in thinking of his duty as a 
condescension, and then in refusing the 
condescension. He was deficient in gen- 
tleness, in courtesy, iii kindness. He 
caused a lot of misery to himself and oth- 
ers. How otherwise with Emerson, whose 
life Was a serene illustration, and whose es- 
say is a classic exposition of this matter ! 
''Good manners," he says, ''are made up 
of petty sacrifices. ' ' The words remind us 
of those other in which Saint Paul discloses 
the inmost secret of courtesy i " Love 
does not behave it&elf unbecomingly ! " 
" Without love, ' ' said Thackeray, ' ' I can- 
not fancy a gentleman J ' ' Too little atten- 
tion is paid to what may be. called Jesus' : 
ministry of socialkindhess, the refined man- 
ner of his. intereoursevwith people in. their 
homes, at their tables and festivities — all 
that eharmvof gentleness, simplicity, and 
grace, which led Chaucer to describe him 
as >" The curteis Lord Jesu Christ," and 
Dekker, as f The first true gentleman that 
everbreathed." - 

Perhaps we have indirectly come near to 
the heart of this whole matter, in finding 
that the finest courtesy and best-beconjing 
behavior springs from inward loving-kind- 
ness. Is not this what Riiskin; means' 
when, after a lot of unsatisfactory defi- 
nitions, he . sums up in saying, " Gentle- 
manliness is only another word for intense 
humanity? " - 

, So Thackeray says of CoL Newcome: — 
"Where did he learn those fine manners 
which all of us who knew, him admired in 
him?" And the answer, illuminative of 
our whole subject, is, "He had a natural 
simplicity, an habitual practice of kind and : 
generous thoughts, and a pure mind." 

Well says Emerson, " First the. kind of 
man of whom that manner is the natural 
expression. " 

Certain it is that nothing else has con- 
tributed more to effect that extension of 



the sphere and that elevation of the idea 
of the gentleman, than the rise and preva- 
lence of the spirit of loving-kindness, which 
is naturally associated with purity of mind 
and simplicity of character. — Hartford 
Seminary Record. 



SCIENCE AND THE KITCHEN 

From '■^ The Outlook'''' 

THE Lake Placid Conference on 
Home Economics held its ninth an- 
nual session during the first week 
of July at the Lake Placid Club in the 
Adirondacks. This conference, begun .a 
few years ago in a modest ivay, has as- 
sumed important proportions, not by rea- 
son of its size, but because of the character 
and influence of the teachers and experts 
whom it gathers together for the reading 
of papers and the discussion of questions 
of home administration. Moreover, it is in- 
dicative of a growing interest in the country 
in the scientific treatment of sanitation, 
diet, clothing, domestic service, and indus- 
trial art, all of which have such a profound 
influence upon the individual and the fam- 
ily in home life. Food, drink, raiment 
and air, are the four essentials for the 
maintenance of life in -the human body. 
They are so essential that the American 
people have, taken them to a very large 
extent as a matter of course, and have 
devoted their time; and attention to science 
and art as applied to manufactures, agri- 
culture, mining, and the prevention of 
epidemics or the cure of acute and malig- 
nant disease. It is not an exageration to 
say that, until within recent years, we 
havelivedina happy-go-lucky fashion so 
far as home economics are concerned. 
The time is well within the memory of 
some who are not yet by any means old, 
when specialists in infant nutrition were 
looked upon as rather radical innovators. 
Now medical science has made enormous 
strides in providing modern methods of 
nutrition,' sanitation, and bodily care for 
the new-born infant. Excellently trained 
nurses, carefully worked out chemical form- 
ulae, scientific principles of ventilation, 



128 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and a study of textiles for clothing the del- 
icate pores of the skin are not considered 
out of place in the care devoted to the new- 
born child. But, too often when he gets 
old enough to leave the nursery, this early 
care is abandoned, and boys and girls and 
men and women are left to live by rule of 
thumb. Home economics is the compre- 
hensive term that includes the scientific 
study of all matters and means which will 
contribute to the highest, happiest, health- 
iest, and most efficient family life. That 
it is not a fad is indicated by the fact 
that the representatives of California, 
Texas, Georgia, Wisconsin, IlHnois, and 
many other nearer States attended the 
Lake Placid Conference. Some three 
hundred academic private schools and col- 
leges offer courses in some branch of 
Home Economics, and in some degree the 
Governments of all the large cities give 
official recognition to the idea. The in- 
teresting fact was brought out at the Con- 
ference that the Middle Western States 
are making greater progress in the scien- 
tific study of home making, than perhaps 
any other section of the country. The 
Domestic Science Associations, affili- 
ated with the Farmers' Institute of the 
State of Illinois, arc permeating every 
town and village and rural community. 
In this particular work the Federation of 
Women's Clubs is playing an effective 
part. It was admitted by the delegates 
to the Conference from various educational 
institutions that a great defect in our 
schools and colleges for both sexes is found 
in the housekeeping administration; college 
and school trustees are not yet awake to 
the fact that the kitchen and dormitory 
need well trained scientists as well as the 
class-room. 



THE COST OF LIVING. 

ANYTHING .of a political nature 
may be deemed inappropriate to 
our pages. We are not engaged 
at all in that line of effort. A matter of 
economy, however, or the cost of living, 
is of the utmost concern to every individ- 



ual, and especially to every housekeeper 
in the land. The present high cost of 
living and our economic poHcy can in no 
wise be separated, and this is the living 
question of the day; 

''It seems to be the fact known to pretty 
much everybody, that the tariff is the 
mother of monopolies, and the father of 
trusts. At least 80 per cent, of the com- 
binations that prey upon the people 
through artificial and exorbitant high prices 
are licensed to do so by the tariff, which 
gives them a practical monopoly of the 
home market. Yet, because they are not 
unlawful, no remedy can be appHed. 

''And so of the wrong of a great sur- 
plus, which a former treasurer of the 
United States has recently described and 
denounced. We need to be aroused to 
a realization of the fact that ' Unnecessary 
taxation is unjust taxation, and unjust 
taxation is tyranny. ' 

"The wise ruler, like the wise physi- 
cian, deals with causes rather than effects. 
Is it not better to prevent monopolies than 
to license and then try to punish them? " 
Great wrongs are righted only when peo- 
ple come to see and feel their condition or 
needs, and then make use of the proper 
means to secure justice, — justice in law as 
well as in administration. 



TRUE WOMANLY INSTINCT 

IT was a happy and neighborly little 
party that was enjoying the cool evening 
breezes on the porch. Education was 
the theme of conversation, and the host 
was airing his views. 

" Nobody can learn in a lifetime all 
that should be known," he said. "A 
man ought never to assume that his edu- 
cation is complete. I must and will keep 
abreast of the times, and I propose to 
begin the study of astronomy at once, and 
continue it through the winter." 

' ' Jerome, ' ' said his wife calmly from the 
hammock in the corner, "you '11 have to 
think of some better excuse than that for 
staying out until all hours of the night.'* — 
Ladies' Home Journal. 



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Shaping Lady Finger Rolls 



Seasonable Recipes 



By JANET M. HILL 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise slated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Pear-and-Ginger Cocktail 

Use very ripe, mellow pears or cooked 
pears. Cut the pears into small pieces. 
For eight glasses take about four table- 
spoonfuls of sliced ginger root, eight ta- 
blespoonfuls of syrup from the ginger jar, 
and six or eight tablespoonfuls of sherry 
wine or three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice; 
add a very little powdered sugar and mix 
carefully; make very cold and serve in 
cocktail glasses as the first course at 
luncheon or dinner. Do not 
use too much sugar. 

A Delicate Celery Soup 

Break three stalks of celery 
into inch pieces and pound in 
a mortar. Cook twenty min- 
utes in a double boiler with 
three cups of milk and a slice 
of onion. Melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter and cook 
in it three tablespoonfuls of 
flour; then gradually add one 
cup of cream, and when boil- 
ing stir into the celery mix- 
ture. Strain, season with salt and pep 
per and serve at once. 



Clam Soup, Philadelphia Style 

Chop one quart of clams fine, and drain 
off the juice through a colander. Keep 
this juice to add to a cream soup. Make 
the cream soup by heating a pint of cream 
in a double boiler with a bunch of soup 
herbs. Remove the herbs and thicken 
the Uquid with a tablespoonful of butter 
and a tablespoonful of flour rubbed to- 
gether. When smooth and well cooked 
add the clam juice. Do not let it boil 




Pear-and-Ginger Cocktails 

after this. Have ready some fine-chopped 
parsley, to sprinkle in just before serving. 



129 



I30 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Bass Baked with White Wine 



Remove the fillets from a skinned bass 







Removing Bone from Leg of Lamb 



weighing about two pounds. Dispose 
these in a baking dish that may be sent to 
the table. The fillets may be left whole or 
divided into pieces for serving. Pour in 
white wine (Sauterne) to cover the fish, 
and strew over an onion cut in thin slices; 
add a few bits of butter, three or four 
sprigs, each, of parsley and thyme, also 
salt and pepper. Cover and let cook fif- 
teen to twenty minutes. Drain off the 
liquid in the pan and cover the fish, to keep 
it hot, while a sauce is made of the liquid. 



flour in the usual proportion. Strain the 
sauce over the fish. Stir two-thirds a cup 
of cracker crumbs into one-third a cup of 
melted butter and one- 
fourth a cup of grated 
Parmesan cheese; 
spread this mixture over 
the fish and return the 
dish to the oven to 
brown the crumbs. 
Serve from the baking 
dish. Tomato puree 
(cooked tomato pressed 
through a sieve) or 
cream may take the 
place of the wine given 
in the recipe. 

Sardines, Newberg 

Style (Chafing 

Dish) 

Remove the skin from 
the sardines in a half- 
pound box, and pick 
the flesh into good-sized pieces. Melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer; add 
the sardines, half a teaspoonful of paprika 
and one-fourth a cup of sherry wine; cove-r 
and let all become very hot. Beat the 
yolks of four eggs; add one cup of cream 
and stir into the sardines. Stir very care- 



fully, to avoid breaking the pieces of fish. 
Continue stirring until the sauce thickens. 
Serve on browned crackers. 

Deleware Deviled Crabs (Julia 
Davis Chandler) 

Make a cream sauce 
by rubbing one table- 
spoonful of flour and 
four tablespoonfuls of 
butter together. Add 
one cup of hot cream 
and stir while cooking to 
a thick smooth sauce. To 
two quarts of crab meat 
add one teaspoonful of 
mustard, one table- 
spoonful of chopped 
an equal measure of cream and butter and parsley, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, 




Boned Leg of Lamb,' Ready to Bake 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



131 



stirring, to avoid causing 
' ' stringiness. ' ' 



one-fourth a nutmeg grated, one table- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one tea- 
spoonful of onion juice, a pinch of cloves 
and of allspice; salt and cayenne to taste. 
Add the minced yolks of four hard-boiled 
eggs. Pour the sauce over the crab meat 
mixture, and blend with the least possible 

•ropiness," or 
Fill the shells and cover 
with cracker crumbs. Brush these with 
white of egg, and fry in deep, hot fat. 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Stuffed and 
Roasted 

Remove the outer pink skin and cut off 
the shin bone from a leg of lamb; loosen 
the flesh around the joint and push it from 
the bone as far up as possible; then, begin- 
ning at the other end of the leg, separate 
the flesh from the bone by cutting and 
pushing with a knife and the fingers. In 
this manner follow the bone down to where 
the flesh was loosened from it below and 
draw it out. Wipe the meat both inside 
and out; fill the opening with a bread dress- 
ing; press the meat in shape, taking such 



Green Dressing for Leg of Lamb 

Press enough crumbs from a loaf of bread 
through a colander to make one cup and a 
half; add a grating of lemon rind, a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped thyme, two ta- 
blespoonfuls of fine-chopped parsley, half 
a teaspoonful of ground pepper, half a 
teaspoonful, scant measure, of salt and 
one-third a cup of melted butter. Mix 
thoroughly and use to fill the open space 
in the leg of lamb. 

Sweet- Pickle Jelly 

This jelly may be made from any sort 
of sweet pickle, but the pin-money man- 
goes are particularly good for this pur- 
pose. Soften one- fourth a package of 
gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold 
water and dissolve in one cup of syrup 
from the sweet-pickle jar. Let cool a little, 
then add one cup of sweet pickle, man- 
goes, or peaches and pears cut in small 
pieces; add also the filling of the mangoes, 
the sections of an orange cut in pieces, the 
juice of the orange, and two tablespoonfuls 
of Maraschino cherries, with a few spoonfuls 



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Cold Boned Leg of Lamb, Sliced. Sweet- Pickle Jelly 



Stitches as are needed to hold it in place. 
Rub over the meat with bacon fat, dredge 
it with salt and pepper, set it on a rack in 
a dripping pan and bake about an hour and 
a half. The oven should be hot at first, 
but after twenty minutes the heat should be 
lowered. Serve hot, with sweet-pickle 
jelly, scalloped potatoes, mashed turnips 
and celery. 



of the liquid. Stir in a pan of ice water, 
until the mixture begins to thicken, then 
turn into one large or several individual 
moulds. Serve, turned from the mould 
or moulds, with roast fowl, lamb or beef. 

Swedish Timbale Cases 

Sift together half a cup of flour, half a 
teaspoonful of powdered sugar and a few 



132 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



grains of salt. Beat one egg slightly, with- 
out separating the white and yolk; add 
half a cup of milk, less two tablespoon- 
fuls, and stir very gradually into the dry 
ingredients. Let the batter stand at least 
an hour in a cool place before using it. 
Heat the rosette patty iron in hot fat, then 
dip it into the batter, being careful not 
to let the batter come up to the top of 
the iron. Return the iron to the hot fat 
for about twenty-five seconds. Remove 
the iron from the fat and shake the case 
onto soft or tissue paper. The recipe 
makes about twenty cases. 

Creamed Chicken for Timbale 
Cases 

Cut cooked chicken into small cubes; 
for each generous cup of cubes m_ake a 
cup of sauce. Stir the cubes of chicken 
into the sauce. If the cases have not 



milk and cook, stirring constantly, until 
the sauce boils. For Chicken Becha- 
mel use half cream and half chicken broth 
as the liquid for the sauce. For chicken 
Veloute use all chicken broth; for Chicken 
Allemand add the beaten yolk of an egg, 
diluted with a tablespoonful of cream to 
the finished sauce. 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Scald one pint of milk and let cool to a 
lukewarm temperature. Soften a yeast cake 
in half a cup of lukewarm water, mix 
thoroughly and add to the cooled milk. 
Stir in three cups of bread flour. Beat 
the mixture until it is very smooth, then 
cover and set aside to become light and 
puffy. Add the yolks of two eggs, one- 
fourth a cup of melted butter, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, two level tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and about four cups of bread 



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Timbale Iron, New Style; Timbale Cases, Filled and Unfilled 



just been made, set them in a pan on tissue 
paper and let stand in the oven about 
three minutes; fill with the chicken mix- 
ture and dispose on paper doiles laid on 
small plates. For a change, before filling 
brush the edge of the cases with a little 
white of egg, then dip the edge in fine- 
chopped parsley, thus securing an attrac- 
tive edge. To make the cream sauce, 
melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it 
cook two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pep- 
per; add one cup of thin cream or rich 



flour. Mix the whole to a smooth dough 
and knead the dough until very elastic. 
It will take at least fifteen minutes. Cover 
and set aside to double in bulk. Divide 
the risen dough into pieces of two ounces 
each (about half a cup of dough weighs 
two ounces). Knead these into balls and 
dispose on a board dredged lightly with 
flour; cover closely with a board or pan, 
and leave them to become Hght. Roll 
the balls on the board under the fingers, 
to make long rolls pointed at the ends. 
Using more pressure on the dough at the 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



^33 



ends than in the middle will give the de- 
sired shape. Set the rolls on a buttered 
sheet, some distance apart. When light, 
with a pair of scissors make 
three transverse cuts in the 
top of each roll. Bake about 
twenty minutes. When nearly 
baked, brush over with white 
of Qs,cr, and return to the oven 
to dry the egg. 



ward, in a dish of cold water, to which a 
tablespoonful of salt has been added, for 
an hour or longer, to draw out insects 



Stuffed Squash au 
Gratin 

Peel, wash and boil ten- 
der three or four summer 
squashes. Have ready a 
small squash, steamed whole _ 

until tender. With a small 
biscuit cutter, score scallops near the top 
of the squash, to remove a piece from the 
top. Through this opening take out the 
seeds, to leave a perfect shell. Mash the 
boiled squashes and add a beaten egg 
mixed with half a cup of scalded cream, two 
or three tablespoonfuls of butter, half a tea- 
spoonful or more of salt and a dash of pep- 
per; mix thoroughly and turn into the 
squash shell, set in a baking dish. Spread 
cracker crumbs mixed with melted butter 
( two-thirds a cup of crumbs, one- third a 
cup of butter) over the top of the squash, 
and bake fifteen or twenty mmutes. Serve 
from the dish. 




Stuffed Squash au Gratin 

that may be concealed within it. Set to 
cook in boiling, salted water. It will 
cook in fifteen to twenty-five minutes. 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; cook 
in this two tablespoonfuls of flour, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper, then add one cup of rich milk ; 
stir until the sauce boils, then remove 
from the fire and stir in two or three 
tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, Parme- 
san preferred. Separate the cauliflower 
into flowerets, and dispose these in well- 
buttered scallop shells. Pour over the 
sauce and sprinkle the whole with cracker 
crumbs, mixed with melted butter. Set 



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Cauliflower au Gratin in Scallop Shells 



Cauliflower au Gratin in Scallop 
Shells 
Let the cauliflower stand, head down- 



the shells into the oven, to brown the 
crumbs and reheat the cauliflower. Serve 
on individual plates covered with doilies 
or paper napkins, with the main course of 



134 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MACrAZINE 



the dinner, or serve as a separate course 
or a vegetable entree. 

Scalloped Egg Plant 




Lady Fiiiger Rolls 

Cut the egg plant into slices half an inch 
thick. Pare off the skin and cut the 
slices in cubes. Put these over the 
fire in boiling, salted water, to cook about 
twenty minutes. Drain the cubes and 
dry them on a cloth. Put a layer of 
cubes in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle 
with salt and a little fine-chopped, sweet 
green or red pepper pod; add also a few 
cracker or bread crumbs, mixed with 
melted butter; continue the layers until 
the egg plant is used, having the last 
layer of buttered crumbs. Turn cream 
into the dish until it can be seen through 
the crumbs, then cover and bake half an 
hour. Remove the cover, to brown the 
crumbs. Serve from the baking dish. 

Fresh Macedoine Salad 

Have ready, cooked in salted water 



from turnips, and also a small head of cauli- 
flower. Dress each of the small vege- 
tables, separately, with the following dress- 
inor. Set each, separately, in piles on a 
serving dish. Dispose the 
cauliflour, separated into 
flowerets, in the center and 
on the edge of the dish. 

Dressing for Mace- 
doine Salad 
Mix together one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of curry 
powder, mustard and pap- 
rika, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, a teaspoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped onion and two chili peppers, fine- 
chopped. Add a tablespoonful of oil and 
mash the whole together thoroughly; grad- 
ually add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
crushing the ingredients together mean- 
while, then add a cup of oil and two 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mix thoroughly 
and strain. Let chill thoroughly and use 
as above. Cover the dressing that is not 
required, and set it aside in a cool place. 

Potatoes 




Fresh Macedoine Salad 

and chilled, half a cup, each, of peas, 
green string beans, yellow string beans, 
slices of carrot, balls and other figures cut 



Scalloped 

Pare and slice enough potatoes to make 
three pints. Cover with boiling, salted 
water, and heat quickly to the boiling 
point; let boil about three minutes, then 
drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. 
Butter a baking dish suitable to send to 
the table; put into this a layer of potatoes, 
and sprinkle them with salt; 
add bits of butter here and 
there, also a few shreds or 
shavings of onion, and a 
little fine-chopj)ed parsley. 
Continue the layers until the 
dish is loosely filled, then 
pour in milk to come to the 
top of the dish. Bake about 
one hour. 

Tiny Cream Cakes(for 

Receptions, Afternoon Teas, etc.) 

Put half a cup (one-fourth a pound) 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



135 



of butter and one cup of boiling water 
over the fire; when the mixture boils, add 
one cup of flour and stir to a smooth 
paste that separates from the sides of the 
saucepan. Turn the mix- 
ture into a bowl and beat 
in, one at a time, three 
eggs. Beat in each egg 
thoroughly, before the 
next one is added. With 
two teaspoons set the 
mixture in tiny rounds 
(an inch and a half ''"^-- 

across) on a buttered bak- 
ing sheet. Bake about 
fifteen or eighteen min- 
utes. When cold make 
an opening on one side 
and fill with English cream; dip the top of 
each in melted fondant, white or chocolate, 
and sprinkle on three or four tiny candies. 
The candies called hundreds and thou- 
sands are good for this purpose. 

English Cream 

Scald one pint of milk less half a cup. 
Mix the half-cup of milk with half a cup 
of flour and stir into the scalded milk; 
continue stirring until the mixture thick- 
ens, then let cook fifteen minutes, stirring 
occasionally. Beat two eggs or four yolks, 
add three-fourths a cup of sugar and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and beat again; 
then stir into the mixture 
over the fire, until it is evenly 
blended and the egg is 
cooked; then let cool, flavor 
with a teaspoonful of vanilla 
and use as above. 



double cream and one cuj^of single cream, 
beaten firm. Turn into a mould. 

Chestnut Bavarian Cream 




Tiny Cream Cakes 

Soften half a package of gelatine in half a 
cup of cold w^ater. Press one cupofpreserved 
chestnuts, with the syrup, through a sieve. 
Bits of chestnuts may be used for this pur- 
pose. To this puree add the gelatine, dis- 
solved over hot water, one-fourth a cup of 
sugar and three tablespoonfuls of sherry 
wine or one tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 
Set the dish in ice water, stir constantly 
until the mixture begins to thicken, then 
fold in one cup of double cream and one 
cup of single cream, beaten solid to the 
bottom of the bow^l. Continue folding the 
two mixtures together until the mass will 
hold its shape, then dispose in small moulds 



Blackberry Bavarian 
Cream 

Soften half a package of gel- 
atine in half a cup of cold water 
and dissolve it in a cup of 
blackberry juice and pulp, or, 
if uncooked juice be used, 
over hot water; add three-fourths a cup of 
sugar and the juice of half a lemon and stir 
while cooling in ice-water. When the mix- 
ture begins to thicken, fold in one cu}) of 




Blackberry Bavarian Cream 

decorated with slices of candied or maras- 
chino cherries. Rinse the bottom of the 
moulds with some of the gelatine mixture, 
before the cream is added to it, ])ut the 



136 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



pieces of cherry in the moulds, set them in 
ice water and the decorations will remain in 
place. Dip the moulds in warm water for 




Chestnut Bavarian Cream 

an instant, when ready to remove the 
cream. 

Spanish Cake 

Beat one cup of butter to a cream; grad- 
ually beat in two cups of sugar, then the 
beaten yolks of four eggs, and, alternately, 
one cup of milk and three cups and one- 
half of sifted flour, through which six level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two tea- 
spoonfuls of cinnamon and one teaspoonful, 
each, of cloves and mace have been sifted. 
Bake in layers and put together with boiled 
icing; or, turn the mixture into a small drip- 
ping pan lined with buttered paper, sprinkle 
the top with currants or chopped nuts, 
dredge with granulated sugar and bake 



Creme de Menthe Punch 

Boil three cups of water and one cup 
and a half of sugar twenty 
minutes. When cold add 
two-thirds a cup of lemon 
juice and freeze as a sherbet. 
When frozen tint a light 
green with vegetable color 
paste. A short time before 
serving beat in half a cup of 
creme de menthe cordial. 

Fruit Punch (for Re- 
cepticns, etc.) 

Boil three quarts of water and three cups 
of sugar eight minutes; let cool and add to 
it one cup of strong tea, fresh-made, the 
juice of one dozen oranges and one dozen 
lemons, one pint of raspberry or strawberry 
juice, one cup of liquid from brandyipeaches 
and, if desired, a cup of claret for each 
quart of liquid. Serve very cold. 

Creole Coffee 

Into the blazer of a chafing dish put a 
lump of sugar for each person present at 
table, add a tablespoonful of whole cloves, 
three sticks of cinnamon broken in pieces, 
and one tablespoontul of candied orange 
peel (cut in shreds). Over these pour one- 
fourth a cup of brandy, light the brandy with 



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Mother's Apple Pie, with Cream and Sugar 



about forty-five minutes. The fruit or nuts 
will sink into the cake, and the sugar will 
give a crusty exterior, which answers for 
an icing. 



a match and let it burn, stirring the ingre- 
dients occasionally. When the alcohol 
has burned out, turn in clear, hot breakfast 
coffee to fill the dish. Stir a few moments, 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



137 



then with a silver ladle dip the coffee into 
cups. Serve with or without cream. 

Fig Layer Cake 

Cream half a cup of butter; gradually 
beat into it a cup of sugar, then the un- 
beaten yolks of three eggs. Sift together 
one cup and three-fourths of flour, and four 
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder; add 
the flour and baking powder to the first 
mixture, alternately, with half a cup of 
milk. Lastly, add the whites of three eggs 
beaten dry. Bake the mixture in two layer 
cake pans in a rather quick oven. Put the 
layers together with a fig filling, and spread 
a thin layer of confectioner' s icing on the 
top. 

Fig Filling 

Cook one-fourth a pound of bag figs in 
boiling water, until the skin is tender and 
the water about evaporated. Chop the figs 
fine, first discarding the stems. Return 
the figs to the saucepan of liquid, add one 
or two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and if ap- 
proved, two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and 
let cook a few moments, when it will be 
ready to use. 

Confectioner's Icing for Fig Cake 

Stir two or more tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water into a cup of sifted confectioner's 
sugar, to make a thin paste. Spread this 
on the top of the cake. 

Sponge Fruit Roll 

Beat two eggs, without separating whites 
and yolks, until very light. Sift together, 
several times, one cup of sifted pastry flour, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and two 
level teaspoonfuls and a half of baking- 
powder. Beat the flour mixture into the 
eggs, then beat in a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract, or a grating of lemon or orange 
rind, and one-third a cup of hot milk. 
Bake in a thin sheet in a quick oven. 



Turn the cake from the pan on to a piece 
of cheese cloth, trim off the crisp edges 
and spread the surface with a thin layer of 
confectioner's icing. Use about a cup of 
sifted sugar, and boiling water as needed. 
At once roll the cake over and over into a 
compact roll. Use the cloth in rolling, to 
avoid cracking the cake. Roll the cloth 
around the cake, to hold it in shape. Serve, 
cut in sHces, with canned fruit above. 
Pass sugar and cream, plain or whipped, 
at the same time. 

Mother's Apple Pie 

Make the usual pie pastry, using two 
cups of flour, halt a cup of shortening, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a little cold 
water. Spread a layer of paste over a 
large pie plate, then fill the dish with 
sliced apples, rounding the apples up 
high; dredge lightly with salt, add about 
three tablespoonfuls of cold water^ and fit 
on an upper crust in which a few shts have 
been made. Let bake about twenty-five 
minutes. Run a knife between the two 
crusts, at the edge, to separate the crusts, 
and Hft off the upper crust. To the apple 
add about a cup of sugar, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, two or three tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and a generous grating of nutmeg. 
Mix the apple and seasonings thoroughly, 
but without disturbing the under crust. 
Spread the apple evenly over the crust. 
Set the upper crust in place and serve at 
once with sugar and cream. 

Apples Baked in Bean Pot or 

Casserole 

Pare, core and shce about two quarts 
of apples and put them into a clean, 
earthern dish that has a cover, alternately, 
with one cup and a half of sugar ; add 
one-fourth a cup of cold water, cover the 
dish, and bake in a very moderate oven 
about four hours. Serve hot or cold, 
with or without cream. 




Inexpensive Menus for Two (October) 

»^,-et.JlT^f !k°*^ ^I'-PP'^ '^ "?,^ ^^""'^f'^ u^ •^'iy .^'■'■^'' J'."^ ignorance;-" Ultimately the problem of cheap living controls the 
existence of the nation as well as of the individual.— i/aip. j f f "s v,uiiuuis me 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon. 

French Omelet. 

Fried Mush. 

Dry Toast. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Veal Steak, Breaded. 

Scalloped Potatoes. 

Buttered Beets. 

Squash Pie. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 

Supper 

French Toast. 

Apple Sauce. 

Cream Cheese. 

Cookies. Tea. 



Breakfast 

Honeycomb Tripe, 

Breaded and Fried. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Rolls, Reheated. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Hot Toasted Com Flakes, Cream. 

Doughnuts. 

Cocoa. 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Creamed Celery 

Au Gratin. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding. 

Tea. 



Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Eggs Shirred with Tomato. 

Bacon Rolls. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Cereal Coffee. 



Luncheon for One 

Yeast Muffins, 

Toasted. 

Apple or Orange 

Marmalade. 

Cocoa. 

138 



Dinner 

Half of Cold 
Roast Chicken. 
Candied Sweet Potatoes. 
Tomato Salad. 
Bread Pudding. 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Gluten Grits, Cream. 


Ralston Heath Food, Cream. 




Eggs Shirred in Cream. 


Eggs Cooked in the Shell. 




Rye Meal Muffins. 


Doughnuts. 




Coffee. 


Stewed Prunes. 




Luncheon for One 


Coffee. 


a 


Cheese Toast. 


Luncheon for One 


w 


Baked Apple. 


Hot Buttered Toast with Melted Cheese. 


d 


Squash Pie. 


Apple Sauce. 


>3 
en 


Tea. 


Tea. 


d 


Dinner 


Dinner 


> 
< 


Nut Loaf, 


Half a Hot Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce. 


Tomato Sauce. 


Cranberry Sauce. 




Celery. 


Mashed Potatoes. Celery. 




Steamed Custard. 


Lima Beans, Buttered. 




Cookies. 


Blanc Mange. 




Half Cups of Coffee. 


Coffee. 




Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Egg-0-See, Cream. 


Smoked Halibut, Creamed. 




Cold Nut Loaf, 


Baked Potatoes. 




Buttered and Broiled. 


New Pickles. 




Toasted Muffins. 


Spider Corn Cake. 




Coffee. 


Coffee. 




Luncheon for One 


Luncheon for One 


^ 

^ 


Lady Finger Rolls. 


Spider Com Cake, Reheated. 


H- f 

d 


Cocoa. 


Apple Sauce. 


Grapes. 


Cheese. 


Dinner 


Cocoa. 




Broiled Fresh Fish. 


Dinner 




Creamed Potatoes. 


Fresh Fish Chowder. 




Celery-and- 


Cole Slaw. 




Lettuce Sllad. 


Mothers' Apple Pie, 




oor Man's Rice Pudding. 


Cream. 




Tea. 


Coffee. 





Menus for Little Dinners in October 



Oyster Cocktail. 

Delicate Celery Soup. 

Olives. Salted Pecan Nuts, 

Beef- Tenderloin, Mushroom Sauce. 

Egg Plant Fritters. 

Partridge Pie. 

Lettuce- an D-ToMATO Salad. 

Caramel Parfait. 

Little Cakes. 

Coffee. 



II 

Pineapple and Peach Cocktail with Marrons. 

Cream-of-Lettuce Soup, Egg Balls. 

Deviled Crabs. 

Salad Rolls. 

Roast Partridge or Guinea Hen. 

Creamed Cabbage. Rice Croquettes. Guava Jelly. 

Slices of Hot Baked Ham. 

Currant Jelly or Cider Sauce. 

Luttuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream. 

Almond Wafers. 

Coffee. 



Chafing Dish Suppers 
I 

Sardines, Newburg Style- 
New Pickles. Olives. 
Lady Finger Rolls. 
Celery, Apple-and-Nut Salad. 
Creole Coffee. 

II 

Creamed Oysters and Celery. 

Toast. 

Olives. Salted Chestnuts. 

Golden Parfait with French Fruit. 

Wafers. Coffee. 



Halloween Supper 

Oyster Salad in Cabbage Shells. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Cold Boiled Ham. Pickles. 

Crullers (Yeast). Jumbles. 

Pop Corn Cakes. 

Roasted Chestnuts. Butternut Fudge. 

Cider. 

139 



Cookery for Young Housekeepers 

By JANET M. HILL 



LESSON IV 
Cooking of Proteids Continued 
Cooking of Meat 



WE know that some cooked meat 
is tender and some so tough that 
it seems impossible to divide it 
with the teeth. We also know that some 
pieces of meat, naturally tough, may become 
tender if cooked in certain ways, rather 
than in others, as apiece of. round steak 
may be tough when broiled, and tender if 
braised or stewed. To know how to select 
tender cuts of meat, or to choose the 
method of cooking adapted to give the 
best results with the cuts at hand, one 
must know the situation, structure and 
use of the various parts of the creatures 
used for food. However, at this time we 
shall consider the subject only in the most 
general way. 

Outside of game, we use for food, un- 
der the terms beef, veal, mutton, lamb, 
pork and poultry, the flesh of beeves, 
calves, sheep, lambs, swine and fowl. The 
general structure of all these is the same, 
viz : a frame work of bone, encasing 
and protecting the vital organs, padded 
on the outside with fat and muscle 
or lean meat. This lean meat (muscle), 
rather than bone or fat, is the por- 
tion that interests us principally. Per- 
haps we can best understand the con- 



struction of lean meat, if we observe, first, 
a whole joint of meat, as a shank of beef. 

In structure the muscle seems to be com- 
posed of layers and bundles of small fibers; 
these, under the microscope, are shown to 
be tubes filled with matter in solution. The 
walls of these tubes are elastic albuminoid, 
and the contents, water holding in solution 
proteids, salts and extractives; these last 
give the characteristic flavor to the differ- 
ent varieties of meat. The fibers or tubes 
are covered and bound together by a very 
fine network of white connective tissue; the 
quantity of tissue varies with the length of 
the muscle fibers, long fibers needing more 
tissue to hold them in place than short 
fibers. In the breast of chicken, where 
the fibers are short, there is but little con- 
nective tissue. Connective tissue is largely 
made up of collagen, which, containing 
nitrogen and thus classed as a proteid, 
differs from true proteid in that it is 
softened by high heat, in the presence of 
moisture, and becomes gelatine. 

In cooking meat we wish ( i ) to coag- 
ulate the proteids in solution in the 
tubes, and (2) to loosen the fibres, that 
they may fall apart easily, by changing the 
connective tissue, which holds them to- 



140 



COOKERY FOR YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS 



141 



gather, into gelatine. 

We know that use strengthens muscle 
and makes it firmer; and we are wont to 
associate strength and firmness with the 
connective tissue; thus age and work 
thicken and harden connective tissue and 
render the process of loosening the fibers 
difficult. We would then expect to find 
tough flesh in the neck and leg of an ox, 
and would not choose cuts from these 
portions of a creature, when quick cooking 
is essential. Age thickens and toughens 
connective tissue, and this also becomes a 
factor when quick cooking is thought of. 
The upper, back portion of four-footed 
creatures contains the tenderest meat and 
the least bone. 

Cooking Tender Meat 

Erom what has been said, it will be 
seen that tender meat contains but httle 
-connective tissue. The object in cooking 
is simply to coagulate the proteid substance 
in the tubes. This coagulation, we know, 
takes place at a temperature between 134*^ 
.and 180° fah. One thing must be looked 
•out for during the time of this coagulation. 
When the muscle is cut and subjected to 
mild heat, the juices in the tubes on the 
■exposed sides are drawn out and often lost. 
High heat will harden these juices at once. 
Then by subjecting the cut surfaces to 
high heat for a few moments, we may form 
a coating that will keep in the juices; then, 
by lowering the temperature, the juices 
within may be cooked just enough to jelly 
them, and change the color from bright 
red to a dull brownish hue. 

Broiled Sirloin Steak. 

Choose a small steak with tenderloin on 
■one side, and have it cut one inch and a 
quarter thick. Wipe it carefully with a 
cloth wrung out of cold water, and cut off 
the flank end and any excess of fat. Heat 
the broiler. Rub the wires of the broil- 
er with a bit of the fat, then put in the 
steak, having the rim of fat towards the 
open front of the broiler, that when the 
meat is held over the coals the melting 
fat may run down upon it to baste it. 



Place the meat over and near to the coals; 
let cook ten seconds, then turn, to cook 
the other side ten seconds; repeat for four 
minutes, then move the steak farther from 
the coals and cook from eight to fifteen 
minutes. Remove to a hot platter, and 
spread over the meat Maitre d ' Hotel 
Butter. (See page 32. June- July maga- 
zine. ) 

Broiled Lamb Chops 

Prepare and cook as above, except 
shorten the whole time of cooking to from 
six to twelve minutes, according to the 
thickness of the chops. 

Broiled Beef Cakes 

Put a small piece of steak cut from the 
top of the round upon a board; with a 
dull knife scrape the meat pulp from the 
connective tissue on one side, then turn 
and scrape the pulp from the other side, 
leaving the white fibrous mass on the 
board. Season the pulp with salt, mix 
thoroughly, then shape into small, flat 
cakes. Broil these in a hot, well-oiled 
broiler. Keep the edge of the cakes as 
thick as the center, or it will dry out too 
much in cooking. These require but a 
few minutes broiling. They may also be 
pan-broiled. 

Pan-broiled Beef Cakes 

Have a cast-iron frying-pan very, very 
hot; rub it over with a bit of fat, but leave 
no fat in the pan; put in the cakes, turn as 
soon as the outside is seared a little, keep 
the pan very hot, and keep turning the 
meat until the outside is browned some- 
what. Set on a hot platter and season as 
steak. 

Pan-broiled Mutton Chops 

Prepare the frying pan as above, and 
cook the chops in the same manner as the 
beef cakes. Cook from six to eight min- 
utes, according to thickness. The outside 
should be brown, the center juicy and 
slightly red. If the chops are from a 
young creature, cook a little longer. Do 
not leave the center red. 



142 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Broiled Chicken 
Cut the fowl down the back and through 
the breast. One of these pieces ( half a 
chicken ) will be enough for a family of 
two. Disjoint the wings and legs. Pre- 
pare the broiler as for beefsteak; put in 
the chicken and broil on the flesh side, 
three or four minutes, ( the skin on the 
other side will hold back the juice ) then 
turn and broil on the skin side about one 
minute; repeat until the chicken is well 
marked with the wires of the broiler. Put 
the chicken into a baking pan, on a rack, 
and pour in half a cup of broth or hot 
water; baste the chicken thoroughly with 
melted butter, and let cook in the oven 
about twenty minutes, basting every five 
minutes. Serve with mashed potato, as- 
paragus, hot or cold, and tomato salad. 

Questions 
I. What compound is found in compar- 



tively large quantity in meat, to which no 
particular reference has been made ? 

2. What causes the puffy appearance 
seen in a properly broiled steak, when it is 
taken from the fire ? 

3. Why have steak cut not less than 
an inch and one-fourth in thickness? If 
not able to answer this, cook a thick and 
a thin piece of steak, and compare the 
results ? 

4. Which contains the greater quantity 
of nutritious properties, 2 pounds of un- 
cooked meat, or 2 pounds of meat weighed 
after being properly cooked ? 

5. What causes meat to shrink, when 
boiling water is poured over it, or when it 
is plunged into boiling water ? 

6. In broiling steak etc., why for the 
first three minutes is the meat turned 
every ten seconds ? 

How does pan-broiling differ from 
sauteing and frying ? 



With Tea 



Bv ALIX THORN 



She takes me to a tea-room quaint, 

Sweet Cicely ! 
And eyes demure as any saint 

Has Cicely; 
Old china, prints, and candle shine, 
A setting surely, quite divine, 

For Cicely. 



I fall to dreaming as I gaze 

At Cicely. 
A cottage, endless golden days. 

And Cicely; 
We two alone, the world forgot, 
A stretch of green, a garden spot, 

O Cicely ! 



She pours me steaming cups of tea. 

Does Cicely, 
And toasted muffins offers me, 

Fair Cicely, 
I watch her fingers graceful play, 
My little hostess, smiling, gay. 

Is Cicely. 



A foolish dream, she '11 never know. 

Not Cicely, 
And out to tea again I ' 11 go 

With Cicely, 
Old china, prints, and candle shine. 
Make setting surely, quite divine 

For Cicely 



English Caravanning 

By JULIA DAVIS CHANDLER 



THE kind of ''light housekeeping " 
that tugs at the heart strings is set 
forth most charmingly in Bertram 
Smith's little lyric of the open road en- 
titled, The Whole Art of Caravanning, 
which is illustrated with many charming 
photographs, and tiny sketches. 

To those unfamihar with modern phases 
of English outdoor Ufe let it be explained 
that a caravan is a gypsy way of traveling, 
now the vogue in Great Britian. Large 
and comfortable vans or wagons, or land 
houseboats as they are sometimes called, 
are used for pleasant parties of friends to 
travel in at will, in picturesque country 
lanes and by-roads, and up into hilly Scot- 
land. There is no anxiety that baggage 
will be late, or that car seats may be filled, 
or that hotels will have scarcely a bed for 
you. 

Your baggage and your easy chairs and 
your beds are with you, under your own 
roof, and you travel at ease, only mindful 
of your vehicle and your horse. 

Often several cars make up a party and 
there are servants along to groom the horses, 
and care for them, at night, or to do the 
camp work during a two weeks stay in some 
charming spot. These men may do much 
of the scullery work; also the main care of 
pitching tents, etc. , may be theirs, if it be 
a large and wealthy party wishing to be 
free from any duties. In this case the 
ladies van is quite luxurious; some have 
been built, by large carriage companies, 
quite like a private car, and are so heavy 
as to need three horses. These cannot be 
moved over the average country road at 
will, and so are less desirable, in spite of 
their value, than the cheaper kinds, which 
are very comfortable and well made. Such 
cars are six and a half feet wide and some 
sixteen to eighteen feet long. They are 
divided into a sleeping room at the rear, a 
central, living- and-dining room with win- 
dows, and a front compartment where the 



least active of the party sits to drive, and 
which forms the kitchen in bad weather. 

Underneath the wagon is a larder, and 
at the rear, underneath, is a box for the 
stove. A spirit lamp is also used inside 
for making tea when moving or at any 
time desirable, as when the oil stove may^ 
be in use for the main items of a meaL 
The dishes are kept in lockers, and little- 
places up next the roof, with a rail to pre- 
vent falling, when ' ' thank-you-maam' s ' ' 
in the road joggle the vehicle. When in 
camp the table and much of the food prep- 
aration is done outside the wagon. How- 
ever there are tables and chairs in the cen- 
tral room not unlike those in our dining 
cars, only smaller; and two seats are on each 
side of the windows with a table between. 
These fold up when not wanted. 

Mr. Smith amusingly says that "all 
other posts and offices, though each is- 
honorable in itself, are truly insignificant 
beside the noble calling of the cook. Here 
is indeed an artist. His is the happiest lot 
of all, for like an actor or musician, his 
art wins instant recognition from his pub- 
He. To stand before a roaring kitchen 
range, repeating day by day the dull rou- 
tine of ordinary meals, may not be an in- 
spiring occupation; I cannot say. But here, 
away from city grates, with his stove on the 
leeward side of the caravan, loaded with 
active pots and pans, bubbhng, murmuring 
and with a pleasant glow, he sits trium- 
phant, revelHng in his work. ' ' 

There are many passages about food and 
cooking and home comforts, on the road, 
too long to quote, but full of interest, and 
again he says, "There are moments of in- 
terlude when one can look up and watch 
the rose of sunset fading into grey, or 
listen to the plough-boy whistling up the 
lane, leading his tired horses to the water- 
ing place. There is a sudden hissing of 
spilt water on the stove, and when one 
looks up again the stars are out and all the 



143 



144 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



world is still. ''I take it that there are 
two outstanding opportunities for the cook 
— the one to fashion some light and deli- 
cate creation to tempt the appetite of an 
invalid, the other to cook sound meals for 
hungry men. The latter of these belongs 
to the caravanner. If he has failed in any- 
thing, a very natural depression will beset 
him, but he will try to talk of other things, 
and we shall help h im to forget it. And 
it is fine to see the blush of pleasure mant- 
ling his bronzed cheek when he is praised. 
For a caravanner looks upon supper not as 
a mere meal, but as a function, a cere- 
mony. ' ' 

The caravan cook has often the very 
best of butter, cream, fresh eggs, and 
poultry, and fish fresh caught from clear 
brooks, but also there are times when sup- 
plies run low, and a Sunday night supper 
must be concocted from bacon and eggs, 
sardines and store jams. 

Perhaps the fire laws are stricter in Eng- 
land; somehow no mention is made of 
cooking over them by roadsides, but only 
of camp fire for wamth and cheer. On chil- 
ly nights the oil stove left burning removes 
the sense of dampness, and the opened 
windows allow free entrance of air. 

Food is obtainable from farms, for al- 
ready in England, especially since the for- 
mation of the Caravan club, and no less a 
person than Lady Grosvenor, the daugh- 
ter-in-law of the Duke of Westminster, has 
taken up this new form of open-air life, 
the farming communities are less suspicious 
of people in wagons. Formerly, as here in 



the United States, they were of a kind that 
did not suit the rural officials, because 
chickens and clothes from the lines often 
disappeared, when their camps were near. 

When there are several caravans, the 
kitchen department is omitted from the 
dormitory and living vans and the space 
is used for bathrooms. 

The rear bedroom is like a section of a 
sleeping car, with berths of light, spring 
mattresses on each side, with an aisle be- 
tween and a small chest of drawers beneath 
the small end window. There are no 
doors, only portieres, and muslin curtains 
deck the side windows, that go up and 
down like any window. The front of the 
recently constructed van is made in sliding 
panels, which are pushed back in good 
weather, to afford light, air and view. In 
rainy weather the "building" is close and 
snug and only the patter of the rain, or 
the easy rocking of the vehicle, suggests 
that one is away from home. But, oh, 
how fresh the air, how sweet the sleep, 
days counted by joys, not hard discipline; 
clocks and phones and telegrams may be 
forgotten, and a fine imposed on the one 
who sneaks off to find such, or buy a 
newspaper. 

"Freedom and peace, fitness of mind 
and body, a new world to live in, a new 
sympathy for all living things, these are 
the gifts of the glorious, beneficent Spirit of 
the Road ! 

" Take pack and staff " ; she whispers, 
"leave all behind, and I will lead you 
on. " 



Recipe for Good Manners 



Of Unselfishness, three drams. 

OftheTinctureofGoodCheer, one ounce. 

Of the Essence of Heart's Ease, three 
drams. 

Of the Extract of the Rose of Sharon, 
four ounces. 

Of the Oil of Charity, three drams and 
no scruples. 



Of the Infusion of Common Sense and 
Tact, one ounce. 

Of the Spirit of Love, two ounces. 

The mixture, recommends Sabia A. 
Oliver, in the Gentlewoman, to be taken 
whenever there is the slightest symptom 
of selfishness, exclusiveness, meanness, or 
I-am-better-than-you-ness. 




HOME IDEAS 
ArfD ECOriOMIES 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



A French Way of Preparing 
Squash. 

AS squash is one of the many vegetables 
not obtainable all the year round, 
liousekeepers may be glad to hear of this 
Trench way of preparing it. I assure you it 
is delicious and worth trying. Dip it in egg 
and bread crumbs, and fry a golden brown. 
Have ready some previously stewed toma- 
toes; rub garlic (or onion) over a plat- 
ter, or pan and put in the fried squash 
as you would biscuits; put a large spoonful 
of tomato on each slice (of squash), sprinkle 
thickly with grated EngHsh cheese and 
bake fifteen minutes in a brisk oven. Serve 
on a hot platter, garnished with parsley. 

A Spanish Way of Serving Eggs 

SKIN and chop, very fine, four large to- 
matoes, also four onions; stew until 
tender and season to taste with salt and 
pepper; when sufiiciently cooked stir in 
four well-beaten eggs; have ready a piece 
of butter the size of a walnut, " sizzling " 
hot; pour in the egg and tomato mixture; 
as it cooks, raise the edges with a silver 
knife, and let the uncooked part run under; 
when all is set, fold it over like an omelet, 
and transfer it to a hot platter. Serve 
quickly (though it will not fall) with 
squares of buttered toast. L. N. 

* # =H= 

French Pie 

A DELICIOUS dessert, inexpensive 
and easily prepared, is made as fol- 
lows : Butter a pie tin and fill with sliced 
apples. Spread the apples with sugar and 



nutmeg and pour over them a batter 
made of the following ingredients: Yolks 
of two eggs, one-half a cup of sugar, one 
tablespoonful of butter, one cup of flour, 
one teaspoonful of baking powder, and 
one-fourth a cup of sweet milk. Bake un- 
til the apples are soft; turn upon a plate 
with the apples on top. Make a irosting of 
the whites of t;^ o eggs thickened with con- 
fectioner' s sugar. Spread the apples with 
this; return to the oven, and brown. Serve 

hot. H. S. 

* # * 

TO make a good cheap cleansing and 
healing soap for the hands. Save all 
the scraps of Ivory and toilet soaps. Cut 
up fine in cold water, enough to cover and 
boil until dissolved, then stir in corn meal 
until thick, adding one even tablespoon- 
ful of borax. Wet a small baking pow- 
der or cocoa can and pour in the soap. 
When cold slip out and cut into cakes. 

R. G. 

* * # 

I NOTICE some one complained about 
baked potatoes in the breakfast menus. 
We often have them, as I cook wholly with 
gasoline and use no hot breads. Of course, 
I do not heat the oven for baked potatoes 
for two people. Over the burner I place 
the sheet-iron mat, then an asbestos mat, 
over this a large wire stand; on this I place 
well-washed and dried potatoes and over 
all turn a large, deep granite pan; have a 
medium blaze and bake one hour, turning 
about four times. If the potatoes are of 
good quality, they will be thoroughly 
cooked, mealy and delicious. Choose me- 
dium-sized potatoes. M. S. D. 



145 



146 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



A Mexican Cure for Malaria 

A Chicago gentleman, who owns a rub- 
ber plantation in Mexico, says the 
natives eat a bean or seed from the cas- 
tor bean plant whenever they feel a ten- 
dency to malaria in their systems. The 
remedy and the disease thus grow side 
by side in the swamps. The gentleman 
asserts that he has tested this until well 
proven, that it is a far better cure than 
calomel and quinine, leaving no after 
effects, and being exceedingly easy to 
take as well. L. M. C. 



A Practical Suggestion 

THE ordinary man need not spend 
more than one day in the majority 
of kitchens, to be convinced that woman's 
time and strength, if not absolutely value- 
less, are very nearly so. The amount 
of time wasted in the preparation of meals, 
through not possessing the commonest 
and most indispensable utensils is enough 
to make the difference between drudgery 
and ease. We who look upon our food- 
chopper, vegetable slicer, egg beater, and 
a score of other utensils as being a neces- 
sary part of our culinary equipment, find it 
hard to beheve that so many homes are 
as bare of these helps as were our grand- 
mothers, a century ago. Yet many a 
maid could throw light on the subject, 
and some of them are more farseeing 
than their mistresses. One who came to 
me had in her possession almost enough 
appliances to outfit a modern kitchen. She 
told me that it was useless to ask for these 
helps in a majority of the homes where 
she had been employed, and that the few 
dollars they had cost her were repaid 
every month of her service in the greater 
ease with which her work was done, and 
she had the good sense to claim the time 
saved as her own. In addition to a few 
articles of the food chopper class, there 
were more than a score of little things, 
costing two, three, four, five and ten 
cents each, such as the strainer, divided, 
mixing and basting spoons, long-handled 



fork, cake turner, can opener, apple 
corer, measuring cup, measuring spoons, 
jar wrench, cork screw, paring knife, 
vegetable brushes, and though you will 
scarcely believe it, actually a quart dipper 
cup, anything purposely for lifting water, 
being, she said, most often conspicuous 
for its absence. 

Is there not a hint in this of the reason 
why enlightened girls so dislike house- 
work? Is it not, too often, because 
they find so little to do with ? And there 
is, I think, a hint to the maid, as well. 
Five dollars will work wonders, in provid- 
ing inventions to make her work easier. 
Get them, if your mistress will not, and 
take them with you when you go. 

E. E. S. 

# * * 

WHEN my three-year-old baby discov- 
ered that she could climb over the 
side of her crib, not only did it seem as if 
she would never again take her morning 
nap — that boon to every busy mother — 
but I never felt safe about her as she 
could wander about the house at will unless 
some one sat near her door to guard it. 
After coaxing, punishing and bribing in 
vain, I made a stout little waist, which 
buttoned in the back. I sewed a loop 
to the lower edge of the back, put the 
waist on the baby and passed a long strap 
through the loop and around the mat- 
tress, buckling it out of her reach. She 
now either takes her morning nap or 
is safe and happy sitting up in bed, play- 
ing with her toys. 

In order to insure not being called back 
to the nursery to give Baby her handker- 
chief after she has been put to bed, I 
now tie the handkerchief by a ribbon to the 
side of her crib within easy reach of her 
hand, so that she can always find it for 
herself, thus saving myself many steps. 

During the winter I save all my empty 
spools, as they are invaluable in my sea- 
shore camp. By driving a long nail 
through them, I use them as pegs on the 
wall to hang clothes on, thus avoiding all 
danger of rust spots on the clothing. 

G. W. H. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



147 



Cream 

Different Qualities — Statute Standards — 
" Evaporated " Cream. 

By Geo. M. Whitaker, Sc. D., United States Dairy 
Inspector 

CREAM though sold to consumers by 
the pint or fraction thereof receives 
its value from the amount of fat it con- 
tains. Cream with a greater per cent, of 
fat is worth more than cream that has 
less. To such an extent is this true that 
cream is bought and sold at wholesale on 
the basis of the fat it contains. This 
manner of dealing in cream is made possi- 
ble by the general use of the mechanical 
separator and the commonness of the 
Babcock tester. With these the quality 
of cream — that is the per cent, of fat — 
can be readily regulated and determined. 
The introduction of these two machines 
and the consequent increased knowledge 
of the composition of cream revealed the 
fact that, as found on the market, it 
varied greatly in amount of fat; the varia- 
tion in fact was more than the variation in 
ordinary milk. Average milk wiU contain 
from three to four and one-half per cent, of 
fat, but cream ranged from ten to fifty 
per cent, of fat; and many consumers were 
being defrauded by paying an average 
price for an article of inferior composition 
— materially deficient in the element that 
gives cream its value. 

Hence legal standards were created in 
many of the states. The most common 
cream standard is 20 per cent, of fat, and 
this is the standard which Congress has 
made for the District of Columbia. Mass- 
achusetts made 15 per cent, its standard, 
last winter. 

Where there is a legal standard, the 
selling of cream having less fat than the 
standard is punishable by fine. 

The new way of handling cream has also 
brought about a change in some of the 
terms used in connection therewith. We 
were once told of ' ' thick ' ' cream, ' ' thin ' ' 
cream, ' ' strawberry ' ' cream and so on. 
These words had only a general meaning 



and conveyed no precise idea. But now 
one hears more frequently of cream with 
a definite composition, and such an expres- 
sion as " twenty per cent, cream" is be- 
coming common. It has the merit of 
conveying an exact statement as well as 
being a mere definition. ' ' Double cream ' ' 
is also a somewhat common term and 
means cream twice as rich as the statutory 
standard — usually 40 per cent, cream. 

Almost all the cream, sold on the mar- 
ket as such, now a days is separated from 
milk by centrifugal force in a machine 
called a separator, and the degree of rich- 
ness is determined and regulated by a 
slight change in the adjustment of the 
machine. 

The expression ''evaporated cream " is 
sometimes used in trade circles to render 
some brands of evaporated milk more at- 
tractive to the consuming public. But 
such brands are really no better than 
any other kind of evaporated milk, 
without a fanciful name. As a matter of 
fact there is no such thing as ''evaporated 
cream. ' ' It would be physically impossi- 
ble to evaporate cream so as to get a 
more condensed product of definite and 
uniform composition. Such a result, how- 
ever, is secured readily by the machine 
above noticed. The Massachusetts board 
of health has made an exhaustive examin- 
ation of the brands of "evaporated" 
cream found on the market. The 
board reports these as "ordinary milk 
evaporated to about one-half its volume; 
in no sense are they cream. ' ' The per- 
cent, of fat in these samples ranged from 
6.75 percent, to 8.70. This shows that 
they did not have sufiicient fat to be 
called "cream," to say nothing of the 
claim that they were "evaporated" 
cream. Interstate trafiic in " Evaporated" 
cream is illegal under the new Pure Food 
Law. 

The use of cream is increasing very 
rapidly and there is a large growing de- 
mand for it in all cities and large towns. 
It is usually sold in quantity as small as 
the half-pint; but in some places — the 
District of Columbia, for instance — 



148 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



■quarter-pint bottles of cream are com- 
mon. In the District the dealers have 
got into the rut of selling this small quan- 
tity at the same rate as by the quart or pint, 



larger quantities of cream are delivered. 

Such sales of cream at three cents for 
the quarter-pint can not be profitable to 
the dealer, though very convenient to 



furnishing bottles and dehvering, as milk or the provider for a small family. 



Ways of Entertaining 



A" Lady Baltimore Exchange " 

By JULIA DA VIS CHANDLER 

LAST winter the writer suggested that a 
Lady Baltimore cake sale, with Owen 
Wister as an auctioneer, or speaker, and 
referee of prizes, would be a very fetching 
thing in Philadelphia, for the benefit of 
^ome good cause. 

Somehow no one tried it, and the news- 
paper editor, to whom it was sent as a good 
idea for the '■ ' woman' s page, ' ' blue penciled 
it. Such a sale, however, has just been 
held with good results. Owen Wister wrote 
a pleasing introduction to the cook book 
compiled for the occasion. This fete was 
given by the Germantown Chapter of the 
D. A. R. , and, since it furnishes an idea 
for other patriotic societies to follow, it is 
here described in brief. 

OWEN WISTER'S INTRODUCTION 

" If every dish in this book be as rare in kind 
:and delightful in flavor as the cake known as 
' Lady Baltimore,' no gods could quarrel with such 
a feast. Undoubtedly, we believe that spiritual 
virtues should concern us more nearly than ma- 
terial ones ; but equally do we believe that if a 
thing be done, it had best be well done, except it 
be a canvas-back duck ; and no housewife ever 
lost her title to future bliss through the keeping 
of a good table while she was on earth." 

The recipes of the book were obtained 
from the old historic homes of Germantown, 
such as the "Chew Mansion," " Sten- 
ton, ' * * ' Wyck ' ' and others. Some south- 
ern recipes from Virginia estates, such as 
" Brandon ' ' and ' ' Black Nancy' s Cake, ' ' 
and one from New England known in the 



parlance of bygone years as ' ' Riz ' ' Cake, 
i. e. , Raised Cake. 

But to leave the details of the cook book 
and speak of the general arrangements. 
The grounds were private, not too large, 
centrally located, but sufficiently secluded 
to make it delightful. A side fence, from 
whence a street crowd attracted by the 
music and dancing might have been annoy- 
ing, was heightened by an awning; rhodo- 
dendrons, wistarias, deutzias, peonies and 
roses, with Japanese maples and giant cop- 
per beeches and other shade trees made the 
setting most charming. The verandas were 
used for the supper tables. The house was 
open to ladies, and all who chose to draw 
near blazing fires, which the chilliness of 
the present season has made welcome to an 
unprecedented degree. 

Lady Baltimore cake was dispensed with 
lemonade to all with coupons upon their 
entrance tickets. The cake, cut in small 
blocks and wrapped in paraffine paper, also 
in loaves, was on sale. It was almost im- 
possible to meet the demand for it. 

Other cakes, candies and "goodies," as 
the pretty programme set forth, were on sale; 
also there were counters of fancy articles, 
bead bags, parasols, etc. A Boston Tea Party 
had a model of an old brig under a tree. 
Indians went about wildly, selHng pretty 
packages of tea and jollying the frightened 
small tots, who clung to their smiling mam- 
mas, or nurses. 

There was a Swedish folk dance, called 
the "Krakoisin," prettily done by little 
boys and girls. A piano was established on 
a cement walk. A shadow dance was given 



HALLOWEEN 



149 



after nightfall, when Chinese lanterns 
and a row of candles set on the ground, 
gave just light enough to make the scene 
eerie. 

Half the girls were in white, ghost-like 
gowns with long fringes of strips, falling from 
the arms to the knees, and half were in 
black made in the same way. (Hanging 
hair and veils would add to the effect). At 
first, they emerged from shrubbery and 
were posed in pairs, with their heads behind 
their right arms and resting in a half-kneel- 
ing position, the black figure behind the 
white ready to dance as shadow. 

As the music started they danced, and 
after many postures and waving of arms, 
they swept backward and forward and then^ 
backward amid the shrubbery. 

One girl copied an old print, wearing a 
short-waisted gown and shoulder shawl, 
with a big hat tied down under her chin; 
she looked as if she had just stepped from 
an old print, or was heroine of an old Eng- 
hsh novel. 

This form of colonial entertainment with 
an especial cake sale, and ever popular col- 
lection of fine recipes — making old ones 
of value from historic homes a feature — is 



recommended as a sure money winner, and 
a delightful way of having a social good 
time out of doors instead of in a hall or 
church parlor. 

The artistic girls should design posters. 
Amateur photographers should be on hand 
to take groups, and promise sure delivery 
within a stated time. 

The gypsies should have a booth, and if 
possible a camp. This could easily be done 
at the sea shore or in the country. Have 
them make an unexpected entry. While 
the women cook a camp stew, really a 
Brunswick stew, or a Creole gumbo, which 
already prepared, needs only reheating; the 
men can add to the fun by taking the young- 
sters to ride. 

One of Howard Pyles' pictures of pirates 
will furnish suggestions for an ear-ringed 
man with gay head-tire, supposedly ma- 
rooned upon a neighboring island. He 
can tell sea tales derived from yarns" of the 
fo' castle. 

In fact there is much that can be done 
that has not already been done to death; 
and, whatever the elders may think, re- 
member there is always a new generation 
coming up to whom everything is new. 



Halloween 

By A. T. FROST 

Eerie sounds the winds tonight, moaning round the house, 
Dim the room, within the walls squeaks a tiny mouse. 
Shifting shadows on the floor, strangest ever seen; 
'Tis October's latest day, mystic Halloween. 

Pumpkin lanterns ghostly gleam from the gate posts high, 
Twinkling stars are shining down from an autumn sky — 
See the sputtering candle flame, burning gold and green, 
Rolling year has brought again awesome Halloween. 



Polished apples on the hearth, in a ruddy row — 
Flour and ring can secrets tell, pass the hours too slow, 
For, at twelve, the witches fly 'gainst the casement lean; 
Anxious time, yet learn your fate, since 'tis Halloween. 



^ 



^^SiVERlES -^D ANSWERS^ 



ru-Tu-Cu-CL-^D— £l_|i-J^ 



^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, ^i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking- School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1281 — A. T. H., Amherst, Mass. 
"Recipes for Irish Stew,prepared with lamb chops, 
Baked Liver, Planked Chicken and Rich Cookies, 
containing caraway seed." 

Irish Stew from Lamb Chops 

Buy chops from the neck, such as are 
often sold neatly cut and rolled. Melt a 
little bacon or salt pork fat in a frying pan 
and in it cook the chops, browning them 
a little, first on one side and then on the 
other; cover the chops with cold water 
and heat the whole quickly to the boiling 
point, then let simmer until tender. Af- 
ter the meat has been cooking about an 
hour, add ( for four chops ) two onions, 
peeled and cut in slices, and two small 
carrots, scraped and cut in sHces. Let 
these cook an hour, then add two pota- 
toes, pared and sliced, also salt and pep- 
per as needed. By the time the potatoes 
are tender, the meat and other vegetables 
should be cooked. Cook yearhng lamb 
at least two hours before the first vegeta- 
bles are added. 

Baked Liver 

We can not improve upon the recipe 
for Braised Calf s Liver, given on page 77 
of the Aug- Sept. m^agazine. The vegeta- 
bles may be omitted at pleasure. The 
liver will be better if cooked in a covered 
dish as in braising. 

Planked Chicken 
Singe the chicken, then cut down the 



entire length of the backbone, and remove 
the internal organs and all unedible por- 
tions. Wipe with a cloth wrung out of 
cold water. Broil the chicken under a 
gas flame, or over the coals, on the flesh 
side principally, for about eight minutes, 
then baste generously with butter, add a 
dash of salt and pepper and let cook in 
the oven about one hour, basting every 
ten minutes with butter melted in a very 
little hot water. Have ready some hot, 
boiled rice, or well-seasoned, mashed po- 
tato and as many hot, stufled tomatoes as 
there are individuals to serve. If toma- 
toes are out of season, have a hot, cooked 
cauHflower separated into flowerets. Dis- 
pose the cooked chicken in the center of 
a hot plank, with the rice or potato (not 
both ) around. Fill in the spaces on the 
board with the tomatoes or cauliflower. 
Serve tomato or Hollandaise sauce in a 
separate dish. If mashed potato be used 
around the chicken, put it on with a bag 
and tube; brush the edges of the potato 
with yolk of egg, beaten and diluted with 
milk, and set the plank into the oven to 
brown the potato. 

Rich Cookies with Caraway Seeds 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat into it a cup of granulated 
sugar, then the beaten yolks of two eggs, 
two cups of sifted flour, sifted again with 
two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
then add a teaspoonful of caraway seeds, 



150 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



151 



and the whites of the eggs, beaten dry, 
also flour as needed to make a dough that 
may be rolled into a sheet. Cut into 
shapes, dredge with granulated sugar and 
bake in a quick oven. 



lobster, season the sauce into which the 
lobster is stirred with paprika, cayenne, 
mustard and curry powder, to taste, then 
finish as above. 



Query 1282.— A. J. T., Corning, N. Y. "Re- 
cipes for Omelet Celestine, and Lobster, Stuffed 
and Deviled." 

Omelet Celestine 

Break three eggs into a bowl; add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar and beat with a spoon 
until a full spoonful can be taken up. 
Butter a hot omelet pan, turn in the egg 
mixture and cook as for a French omelet. 
When the omelet is about cooked, spread 
over it a tablespoonful, or more, of any 
sort of jam or marmalade, (apricot mar- 
malade is often used ) or use currant jelly 
mixed with powdered macaroons. Roll 
or fold the omelet and turn it on to a hot 
platter. Dredge the top of the omelet 
with sifted powdered sugar, score the 
sugar with a hot iron and serve at once as 
a dessert dish. 

Lobster Stuffed and Deviled 

Remove the flesh from a boiled lobster, 
to leave the body and tail shells connected 
and in perfect condition. Cut the flesh 
into half-inch cubes. Add the whites of 
two hard- cooked eggs, chopped, and the 
yolks, sifted. For a generous pint of 
lobster and egg^ melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter in a saucepan; add one-fourth a 
cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a dash of pepper, cook until frothy, 
then add two cups of milk; stir until the 
sauce thickens and boils, then mix the 
lobster and egg into it. Put the prepared 
lobster shell on to a serving dish that may 
be put into the oven. A sarreguemines 
dish is good for this purpose; ordinary 
table ware may be used if set over a dish 
of hot water. Mix one-third a cup of 
melted butter through two-thirds a cup of 
cracker crumbs and spread these over the 
lobster mixture. Set the dish into the 
oven, to brown the crumbs. For deviled 



Query 1283. — Mrs. D. F., St. Louis, Mo. " Di- 
rections for preserving peaches and other fruits 
under glass by the heat of the sun." 

Sunshine Preserves 

Weigh the fruit after it is prepared for 
cooking and take an equal weight of sugar. 
Cook the sugar with half its weight in water 
until alightthread maybe formed. Putin the 
fruit and cook fifteen minutes after the mix- 
ture boils. Pour the cooked fruit on to 
large plates, cover with glass and let stand 
in the sun two days, or until the syrup is 
very thick. Store in tumblers, jars or 
bottles, to keep out dust, etc. Sunshine 
preserves are very good, but we can not 
say that they are so much better than those 
that are cooked over the fire as to pay for 
the trouble in making them. 



Query 1284. — Subscriber, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
" Recipe for Iced Bouillon." 

Iced Bouillon 

Select lean beef, discarding all fat. For 
four pints of soup, take four pounds of 
meat (that from the neck, vein or round is 
good) and chop fine. Put two level table- 
spoonfuls of sugar into the soup kettle and 
cook and stir until it changes to caramel, 
being very careful not to burn any of the 
sugar; add the chopped meat and two 
quarts and a half of cold water and let the 
whole heat very slowly to theboihng point, 
then remove the kettle to a cooler place 
and keep the contents at the simmering 
point about four hours; add about half a 
cup, each, of chopped or fine-cut onion 
and carrot, half a green or red pepper pod, 
two or three coarse stalks of celery, three 
or four cloves, a small bit of bay leaf, and 
a tablespoonful of salt, and let cook nearly 
an hour, then strain and let cool. When 
cold remove any globules of fat from the 
surface. There should be two quarts of 
soup; into this stir the crushed shells and 



152 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the slightly beaten whites of three eggs; 
set over the fire and stir constantly until 
the soup boils; let boil eight minutes, then 
pour in half a cup of cold water and draw 
to a cooler place, to settle. Strain through 
a doubled cheesecloth. Set a strainer into 
the cheesecloth, to catch the shells and 
most of the scum. Set aside to become 
thoroughly chilled before serving. If pre- 
ferred, it may be served frappe or half fro- 
zen by the use of an ice cream freezer. 



Query 1285. — K. M. D. "Recipe for Wild 
Plum Jelly. Are crab apples needed with wild 
plums to make a firm jelly" 

Wild Plum Jelly 

We have had no experience in making 
jelly of wild plums, but have made it most 
successfully from damson plums, also from 
green gage plums without the use of crab 
apples. In making these jelhes we used 
little water, less than in making apple jelly. 
Boil the fruit with the water until it is soft; 
drain and press out the juice; strain through 
a jelly bag, measure, heat to the boihng 
point quickly, then boil rapidly ten min- 
utes; add a pound of sugar (a pint) for 
each pint of juice and let boil until it jel- 
lies. 



Query 1286.— E. N. B.,Tueblo, Colo. "Easi- 
est and speediest way of preparing pineapple for 
canning. How long should the pineapple be 
cooked ? Is May the best month to can pine- 
apples for home use ? Give recipes for canning it 
with other fruit." 

Canning Pineapple 
Can the pineapple when it is cheapest 
in your locahty; probably that time is the 
month of May. With a knife trim off the 
outside and dig out ''the eyes." The 
next step will depend upon the use 
you are to make of the fruit. A round 
slice with a hole in the center, where the 
core has been removed, is pretty for many 
desserts; lengthwise slices are favored in 
some tropical countries, and pieces picked 
from the core with a silver fork, the fork 
following the natural lines of division, are 
good for use in salads and cocktails. For 
use in omelets, souffles. Bavarian cream 



and punch, grated pineapple is preferaMe. 
The fruit is canned just as successfully 
without sugar as with it, and the omission 
of the sugar simplifies the preparation of a 
dish in which the pineapple is used with 
other ingredients. In canning in an open 
kettle, cook until tender; in the jar, cook 
about half an hour. 



Query 1287.— A. H., Manhatten. "How is 
parsley prepared for decorating dishes, so that it 
may look crisp and fresh ? " 

Parsley for Decorating 

Parsley that is bought at market often 
is wilted when it reaches the kitchen. To 
revive it, clip the ends of the stems, wash 
if needed, shake and set the stems in 
water as in case of blossoms. Set the 
dish aside in a cool place. In a short 
time the parsley will look fresh and crisp. 



Query 1288.— C. J., Tryon, Okla. "Does 
Frappe take the place of an ice or a drink ? What 
are Patty Shells and how are they made? What 
Wafers should be served with Chicken Salad ? 
Recipes for Cheese Straws and Lady Fngers?" 

Frappe 

A beverage as coffee, cocoa, pineapple, 
lemonade, cider or champagne is often 
served half frozen, when it is called respec- 
tively coffee, cocoa, pineapple, cider, or 
champagne frappe. Strictly speaking, a 
frappe might not be termed an ice, 
though it is often used at receptions, when 
no other form of ''ice" is served. In 
reality it often serves the purpose of 
both a beverage and an ice; but while 
no other beverage need be served, its service 
does not preclude the service of ice 
cream or sherbet. 

Patty Shells 

Patty shells are cases made of puff-paste. 
They are generally used to hold oysters, 
chicken, sweetbreads, mushrooms, lobster 
and the like, cut in pieces and mixed with 
a hot sauce. The making of patty shells 
is not a difficult matter, though a very par- 
ticular one. Explicit directions for making 
the shells were given in the November 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



First Principles of Cooking 



By MARY JANE McCLURE 



During the honeymoon life 
looks luminous to the young wife. 
There comes a time, though, 
when cold, hard-hearted Reality 
grins mockingly at her. Then 
she realizes that, after all, life is 
not one grand, sweet symphony 
of joy. There is nothing very 
roseate or poetical about "butch- 
ers and bakers and candlestick 
makers." They bring the air- 
ship of romance down to earth 
with a sudden dull and sicken- 
ing thud. 




Love and indigestion have no 
affinity one for another. On the 
other hand, carelessly selected, 
improperly cooked food and in- 
digestion are twin souls. The 
moral is vivid. If love is to be 
kept as a permanent dweller in 
the home the door must be 
barred against indigestion. So 
the sensible young wife begins 
to study the first principles of 
cooking. 



THE science of cookery goes deeper than the mere combination of materials — that may be said 
to be the chemistry of cooking. Its very foundation principle lies in their selection. For in- 
stance, a housewife of experience knows that the cheaper cuts of meat really are the most 
nutritious, but are lacking in flavor. She will utilize these cheaper cuts of meat in the form of 
stews, ragouts, pot roasts, etc., adding a little of Armour's Extract of Beef to impart the flavor 
which they lack. She has learned at least two of the foundation principles of cooking — economy 
and food values. 

Another important lesson is that of quick-wittedness in combining food materials and making 
the best of a bad situation. Until a young wife learns this art she will be likely to have many 
unhappy moments. 

"Lords and Masters" have a way of telephoning at the last moment that they propose to bring 
home an old friend to dine. This message usually partakes of the character of a peremptory com- 
mand. Frequently it happens when nothing but baked beans has been prepared for the evening 
meal. A jar of Armour's Extract of Beef and a knowledge of how to use it make a big difference 
at such a crisis. The whole situation will lose its terrors — yield nothing but satisfying results. 

A woman who has had no practical experience with Armour's Extract of Beef will be surprised 
and fascinated to learn the many ways in which it can be used. It has become known the world 
over as an especially appetizing addition to vegetable dishes, such as peas, green or wax beans, 
corn and other vegetables. It gives a distinctive flavor which can be secured by no other means. 
It solves the gravy problem, for it not only colors but gives the real beef flavor when used for 
this purpose. 

For imparting a delicious flavor to warmed over meats it is invaluable. The reason why is 
easily explained. Armour's Extract of Beef is exactly the same thing you cook out of the meat in 
the first serving. By adding it to left overs the original zest will be restored. 

A new cook book has 
just been issued by Ar- 
mour & Company. " My 
Favorite Recipes" is in- 
tended to be a cook book 
which will endear itself to 
every woman who comes 
across it. Besides contain- 
ing a number of hints for 
using Armour's Extract of 
Beef and recipes for many 
dishes in which that prod- 
uct is not used, there are blank pages on which may be written the recipes which you prize. The 
miscellaneous hints and tables of proportions in it alone ought to make it of inestimable worth to 
women who want to to do things the best way possible. Write to Armour & Company, Chicago, en- 
closing cap from jar of Armour's Extract of Beef, and "My Favorite Recipes" will be mailed to you. 






Buy advertised goods- 



Do not accept substitutes 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



number, Volume X, of this magazine. 
Swedish timbale cases, fried on an iron 
made for the purpose, are more quickly 
made than patties and answer the same 
purpose. A recipe for these cases also for 
the fining, is given on page 131 of this 
number of the magazine. 

Wafers to Serve with Chicken 
Salad 

In speaking of wafers, to serve with 
chicken salad, doubtless some variety of 
cracker is referred to. Personally, we 
should prefer yeast rolls, baking powder 
biscuit, or a plain bread and butter sand- 
wich, with chicken salad. 

Cheese Straws 

Cheese straws are often made from the 
trimmings of puff-paste left after cutting 
patties from a sheet of paste. They may 
also be made from any rich pastry. When 
the paste has been rolled into a rectangular 
sheet one-fourth an inch thick, sprinkle 
one-half with grated cheese, Parmesan is 
preferable, and with cayenne or paprika; 
fold the paste without cheese over the paste 
with cheese, then fold again and roll into 
a sheet one-fourth an inch thick; sprinkle 
one-half with cheese and pepper and fold 
as before, then roll again. Continue this 
until cheese has been added four times, 
then when again in a sheet one-fourth an 
inch thick cut into straws or bands half an 
inch wide. Bake in a moderate oven. A 
few rings may be cut from the paste, which 
may be used to hold the straws. 

Lady Fingers 

Beat the yolks of three eggs until thick 
and light-colored; gradually beat in one- 
third a cup of sugar, then cut and fold in, 
alternately, two-thirds a cup of flour and 
the white of one Qgg, beaten dry. Shape 
with a teaspoon or a pastry bag with a plain 
tube attached on a baking sheet covered 
with paraffine paper. Bake about twelve 
minutes. 



other than cereals, eggs, toast and rolls ; also in- 
expensive meat and vegetable dishes for dinner. 

Suggestions for Inexpensive 

Breakfasts 

Honeycomb tripe, broiled or rolled in 
flour and fried. Hashed meat in sauce on 



Query 1289.— Mrs. C. O. J., Glen Falls, N. Y. 
"Suggestions for inexpensive breakfast dishes 



Puts the " Ginger " in 

The Kind of Food Used by Athletes 

A former college athlete, one of the long 
distance runners, began to lose his power 
of endurance. His experience with a 
change in food is interesting. 

' ' While I was in training on the track 
athletic team, my daily 'jogs' became a 
task, until after I was put on Grape-Nuts 
food for two meals a day. After using the 
Food for two weeks I felt like a new man. 
My digestion was perfect, nerves steady 
and I was full of energy. 

" I trained for the mile and the half mile 
runs (those events which require so much 
endurance) and then the long daily 'jogs,' 
which before had been such a task, were 
clipped off" with ease. I won both events. 

" The Grape-Nuts food put me in per- 
fect condition and gave me my ' ginger. ' 
Not only was my physical condition made 
perfect, and my weight increased, but my 
mind was made clear and vigorous so that 
I could get out my studies in about half 
the time formerly required. Now most all 
of the University men use Grape-Nuts, for 
they have learned value, but I think my 
testimony will not be amiss and may per- 
haps help some to learn how the best re- 
sults can be obtained. 

There 's a reason for the efl'ect of Grape- 
Nuts food on the human body and brain. 
The certain elements in wheat and barley 
are selected with special reference to their 
power for rebuilding the brain and nerve 
centres. The product is then carefully 
and scientifically prepared so as to make it 
easy of digestion. The physical and men- 
tal results are so apparent after two or three 
weeks' use as to produce a profound im- 
pression. Read ' ' The Road to Wellville, ' ' 
in pkgs. ' ' There ' s a reason. ' ' 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Heinz Improved 
Tin lor Heinz 
Pure 
Food 




Tfic Solderless Seam 
in Heinz Improved Tin. 



lii'piiC: 

CHERRIES 



37 • 

VARIETIES 



One of the Heinz Products 
packed in the Improved Tin. 



^"d^MJtim 



ST 

are put up wi hout coloring 
matter or preservatives. 



Do you know that many kinds of food 
are better put up in tin than any other way? 
It keeps out the light — every housewife knows 
what that means. It is more economical — 
there being no danger of breakage. The con= 
tents after sealing can be sterilized under high 
temperature, thus insuring absolute purity and 
keeping quality. For these reasons many of 
the Heinz products will hereafter be put up in 
Heinz Improved Tin, a container that over= 
comes all objections to the old=fashioned can. 
The inside is specially prepared to resist action 
of fruit or vegetables, so that the flavor of the 
contents can never change. 

WEIN2 

Improved Tin 

is hermetically sealed by a crimping process, 
no solder being used. Then it is sterilized under 
extreme temperature, thus insuring the keep= 
ing quality of the contents without artificial 
preservative or adulterant. 

Heinz Improved Tin is made especially by 
Heinz and is now being used for the following mem= 
bersof the 57 varieties: Preserved Fruits, Apple But= 
ter, Cranberry Sauce, Mince Meat, Tomato Soup, 
Baked Beans. 

A Handsome 'Booklet telling the 
ivhole story of the S7 — TV.'E'E. 



New York 



H. J. HEINZ COMPANY 

Pittsburgh Chicago 



London 



Buy advertised goods 



- Do not accept substitutes 
xi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



toast. Salt mackerel, freshened, then 
simmered or baked in milk. Salt codfish 
balls, with bacon rolls. Fish cakes of 
canned salmon or canned salmon in cream 
sauce, with curry powder. Cream toast, 
with grated cheese mixed through the sauce. 
Canned corn fritters. Poached eggs on 
toast, with cream or tomato sauce above. 
Griddle cakes, made of ready cooked ce- 
real, sour cream, etc. , with caramel syrup. 

Inexpensive Meat and Vegetable 
Dishes for Dinner. 

Boiled Shoulder of Lamb. Lamb Souffle, 
made from remnants of shoulder. Can- 
nelon of Beef ( round steak). Casserole of 
Beef (round steak). Lamb stew, Irish 
style. Beef chowder. Macaroni, Italian 
style ( with tomato and bits of boiled ham 
or tongue). Scalloped tomatoes, cabbage, 
onion or potatoes. Canned corn pud- 
ding. Cheese pudding. Corn chowder. 
Succotash. Dried or fresh Lima beans, 
stewed. Spinach, with egg. Creamed 
turnips. Creamed cabbage, with cheese. 

e^^ f^^ t^* 

The King's Chef 

An admiral of the English fleet or a lieu- 
tenant general of the army gets no larger 
salary than King Edward's chef. This re- 
markable functionary draws ^ i o, ooo a year. 

He is a native of Southern France and 
his name is Menager. His age is about forty, 
and he is considered, at least by King Ed- 
ward, the most capable chef in the world. 

So great a culinary artist is not expected 
to produce three masterpieces in one day, 
so he has nothing to do with the King's 
breakfast. He arrives at Buckingham Palace 
from his private residence nearby, in a han- 
som at about ii o'clock. 

In a large, sunny kitchen, overlooking 
the lawns, he receives the luncheon carte, 
drawn up by Lord Farquhar, and his work 
begins. First of all he orders what will be 
required, and the master of the kitchen sees 
that all the articles come in, checks each 
item, and then sends the account to Sir 
Nigel Kingscote, the paymaster, who writes 
out a check in payment. 



Afier luncheon is served M. Menager 
retires once more, to reappear at 6 o' clock, 



Knows How 

Doctor Had Been Over the Road. 

When a doctor, who has b^en the vic- 
tim of the coffee habit, cures himself by 
leaving off coffee and taking Postum Food 
Coffee, he knows something about what he 
h advising in that line. 

A good old doctor in Ohio, who had 
at one time been the victim of the coffee 
habit, advised a woman to leave off coffee 
and take on Postum. 

She suffered from indigestion and a weak 
and irregular heart and general nervous 
condition. She thought that it would be 
difficult to stop coffee abruptly. She says: 
"I had considerable hesitancy about mak- 
ing the change, one reason being that a 
friend of mine tried Postum, and did not 
like it. The doctor, however, gave ex- 
plicit directions that Postum must be boiled 
long enough to bring out the flavor and 
food value. 

" His suggestions were carried out and 
the delicious beverage fascinated me, so 
that I hastened to inform my friend who 
had rejected Postum. She is now using 
it regularly, after she found that it could 
be made to taste good. 

" I observed, a short time after starting 
Postum, a decided change in my nervous 
system. I could sleep soundly, and my 
brain was more active. My complexion 
became clear and rosy, whereas, it had 
been muddy and spotted before; in fact, 
all of the abnormal symptoms disappeared, 
and I am now feeling perfectly well. 

" Another friend was troubled in much 
the same manner as I, and she has recov- 
ered from her heart and stomach trouble 
by leaving off coffee and using Postum 
Food Coffee. 

"I know of several others who have 
had much the same experience. It is only 
necessary that Postum be well boiled and 
it wins its own way." ''There's a rea- 
son." Read ''The Road to WellviUe/' 
in pkgs. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Coffee 



For 



Breakfast 



Will be greatly Enriched and be more Delicious by adding a teaspoonful of 

BORDEN'S 



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Buj advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



when the great event of the day — the 
preparation for dinner — commences. That 
over, the artist is free for the evening. It 
is worth noting that he owes his enviable 
post solely to hard work and — genius, for 
the cook, like the poet, is born, not made. 
An additional interest attaches to this cul- 
inary autocrat because. of the encourage- 
ment he gives to women cooks. 

It has always been said that women can- 
not attain to great heights as cooks and 
creators of dishes, and that, just as they 
fail to excel in music, poetry and painting, 
they fail also in the higher mysteries of 
cooking. It is very interesting to learn, on 
the testimony of the King' s cook, that this 
is no longer true, however true it may have 
been formerly. — Exchange. 



Told Through the Mail 

( Contmtted from page 12^) 

supper. It has gotten on my nerves to be 
smiling and saying how well I like Milton- 
ville, while the dinner is burning up in the 
kitchen. 

Barbara seems a little droopy today. I do 
hope she is not going to be ill ! You know 
how panicky I am about any of the children 
or Billy ! 

Write soon. Your letters are always so 
helpful. I nearly forgot to tell you that 
Mabel is coming next week to visit me. I 
almost dreaded having her, for I can neither 
entertain her in the style to which she has 
been accustomed, nor as I could have done 
in Sumner. But I have not seen her since 
her last trip abroad, and she is always so 
rich in experiences, that I longed for her 
— and she accepted the invitation. 

Mabel is no snob — I could not like her 
if she were — but I can't help wondering 
what she will think about sitting at the table 
with the student, who is working for her 
board. Hadn't I written of her? She is 
a nice little thing with fiery red hair and a 
good disposition — I mention this because 
the combination is unusual. 

I will write, and endeavor to get Mabel 
to write, during her visit — but you know 
how she is about letters. 

As ever, lovingly, 

Marian. 



MiLTONVILLE, SePT. I, I907. 

Dearest Girl: 

This letter will not be sent to you for 
some weeks — but as I cannot talk to Billy, 
I must tell you. I will write a little now 
and then, and have it fumigated before 
sending. But I am putting the cart before 
the horse. My precious Barbara has scar- 
let fever, and she and I are quarantined, 
alone in the house ! 

I could weep my eyes out if it would do 
any good, or if I did not feel how very, 
very much I have to be thankful for, since 
the doctor assures me that the worst is over, 
and that there is no indication of further 
trouble. 

She was very ill for a few days before she 
broke out with the fever, and Billy and I 
hung over her like two distracted beings — 
but then you know how precious that mite 
of humanity is to us. No more so than our 
two boys, of course. But there is some- 
thing about a little girl which is absolutely 
sacred to parents who adore their children 
as do Billy and I. 

I am aweary now, and will make ready 
for bed. 

Yours, 

Marian. 

MiLTONVILLE, SePT. 2, I907. 

Dearest Lela: 

Do you ever have that panicky feeling 
which makes you want to pull the bed 
clothes up over your head like you did as a 
child ? And was there some precious be- 
ing whose comfort of mind and body was of 





THE HOUSEHOLD 

DISINFECTANT 

Destroys disease germs and foul gases. 

An odorless, colorless liquid sold in quart 

bottles only by druggists and high-class 

grocers. 

Manufactured by Henry B. Plattt atNew 

York and Montreal. 



Buy advertised goods - 



Do not accept substitutes 
xiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



5AKEIIS 

EXTRACTS 



IF YOU COULD 

take rich, ripe fruits and by /A^*^ 

any process dispose of the -^ ** — «^^ 

fibrous parts, retaining the 

juices in such a way that they would 

KEEP INDEFINITELY and HOL] 

THEIR FULL STRENGTH, you would 

then have extracts like Baker's. You can't do 

this, but we can, and your grocer can supply you. 

Comply ivith all Food Laws. 





1867 



1907 




40 Years 



Test 



ELECTRO 
SILICON 

Is Unequalled lor 

Cleaning and Polishing 
SILVERWARE. 

Send address for a FREE S AiyiPLE, or 15c. in 
•stamps for a full box. . . 

Electro-Silicon Soap has equal merits. 
The Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff St., New York. 
Grocers and Druggists sell it* 



Here are two new books by 
Mrs. Rorer; just out 

MY BEST 250 RECIPES 

Mrs. Rorer' s favorites cover a wide field, but are conveniently 

arranged, such as 20 Best Soups, 20 Best Fish Recipes, 20 Best 

Meats, 20 Best Salads, 20 Best Desserts, and so on through the 

entire menu. You will readily understand how useful this will be. 

Cloth bound, 50 cents net ; by mail 55 cents. 

MANY WAYS FOR COOKING EGGS 

It 's really wonderful what can be done with an Qgg. Such 
toothsome dishes I This book has lots of good things and recipes 
for delightful sauces to pour over them. 

Cloth bound, 35 cents net; by mail 38 cents. 

ARNOLD & COMPANY - PHILADELPHIA 

420 Library Street 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



more importance to you than your own 
cowardly personality ? 

The first night Baby and I were alone in 
the house, I suffered tortures of fear, but 
when the dear one, perhaps instinctively 
knowing that all was not well with me, asked, 
" Are you a' scared, Mommie ? " I laughed, 
with chattering teeth, and brazenly an- 
swered, ^' Of course not. There is nothing 
to be afraid of." 

Nevertheless, after she had sunk into a 
quiet slumber, I put the water can in front 
of one of our doors, so that when that fear- 
ful apparition should appear, he would walk 
into a bath, and pulled my machine before 
the door in the adjoining room. We got 
through the night somehow, and Baby was 
spared the knowledge of her mother' s weak- 
ness, so I have lost nothing of her respect. 

The day has been uneventful, except 
that I made Billy feel badly by handing out 
some of my despondency, properly disin- 
fected, through the back door, when he 
came at noon with the mail, and for the 
purpose of filling my coal buckets. 

There was a downcast look to his should- 
ers as he went down the street to the board- 
ing house, which went to my heart, and I 
am waiting now for his whistle, to tell him 
that I have ceased repining, and that nothing 
matters, if our darling gets through this all 
right. 

The evening is fast settling down. Bar- 
bara is amusing herself with the funny 
papers, and I am waiting with a beating 
heart for that man of mine, as I used to 
wait for him years ago. 

But ah, it is different now ! Then, there 



was the future, with its doubts and appre- 
hensions, to be met. Now I know what he 
is, and the knowledge makes him doubly 
dear. Sentimentalizing with my thirty odd 
years behind me, you cry ! Yes, and it 
will be the same with fifty odd, with sixty 
odd years behind me. You see, it ' s dif- 
ferent when one' s mate is Billy ! 

And then, my hope is, when seventy odd 
years are behind me, that Billy and I, hand 
in hand, can wander into the fair country 
which awaits us. 

I hear his whistle — it summons me ! 
Good-bye, 

Marian. 

{To be concluded.) 



THERE was a time when a woman did 
not care about the left overs or odds 
and ends. The increased cost of food, 
however, necessitates the use ot left overs, 
which may be prepared into appetizing 
dishes in a little time, with practically no 
labor, by using a Universal Food Chopper. 
It was made to do better and quicker work 
than the old-fashioned chopping bowl, and 
it certainly will do it. The work that would 
ordinarily take twenty minutes to do, may 
now be done in five or six minutes. Its 
cost is a trifle; its uses are many. 

Good hardware dealers and house-fur- 
nishing stores sell the Universal Food 
Chopper and thousands of up-to-datehouse- 
keepers are using them. 



Selfishness is not in living as one wishes 
to live, but in demanding that others shall 
live as one wishes they should live. 



ASK YOUR DEALER for 

ancl insist 
Having tK 
genuine 




Sample Pair, Mercerized 
25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 



OUSHION 
BUTTON 



Over two hundred styles. 
Wc m all over the world. 



HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

EVERY PAIR WARRANTED 

I AAlf FOR THE NAME AND THE 



MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON 
GEORGE FROST CO., Hakers, Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





ROAST MEATS 

Hot or cold. Soaps, Steaks, Chops, Gravies, Cheese and all 
kinds of Salads are given a rare relish by the judicious use of 

Lea & Perrins' Sauce 

THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 

Leading Chefs say it is the Secret of their Success 

Beware of Imitations. John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York 




^ 



Ice Cream 

Crowns the Feast 

providing the flavor and 
consistency are pleasing. 

JUNKET 

TABLETS 

make the ice cream of such 
a delightfully smooth and 
velvety body, and of such 
exquisitely delicious taste, that 
the guests all remember the oc- 
casion with pleasure. 
We mail ten tablets to make ten 
quarts, post-paid, for ten cents. 
Your Grocer Sells Junket Tablets. 

HANSEN'S LABORATORY, 

2507, Little Falls. N. Y. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




The Cook 
Stays Longest 

where there is a HUB Range in the 
kitchen. The best cooks got their train- 
ing on HUB Ranges, at the Boston, 
New York, Providence, Hartford, New 
Haven, Springfield, Worcester and scores 
of other Cooking Schools. The hun- 
dreds of recipes in the Boston Cook Book 
were first worked out on the HUB 
Range, which was used exclusively by 
the author of that book. 

TKe Model 

HUB 

Cbony FinisK 

is one of the latest of the HUB Series. 

It has just the right size, shape and con- 
veniences to please the cook. (See cut.) 

Has French Broiler Top and heat 
travels under all six lids, and around five 
sides of the oven. Ovens two inches 
larger than ordinary. 

Let us send you our special circulzur and 
tell you name of nearest agent. 

SMITH & ANTHONY CO., Makers, 

52-54 Union Street. BOSTON 



Study Outline on Household Art 
No. II 

By MRS. BLAIR 

1. Location. 

(<7) Choice of site and laying out of 
grounds. 

(<^) Materials (wood or concrete) and 
plans for building. 

(r) Color of house and other build- 
ings — paintings. 

2. The Basement. 

(^a) How it should be finished. 
(<^) The heating plant. 
(r) The fruit and vegetable cellars. 
(^) The laundry and its furnishings, 

and its location in basement or first 

floor. 
(^) Ventilators. 

3. The Kitchen. 

{jo) Its location, plan, finish and light- 
ing. 

{b^ The floor, the walls, and the ceil- 
ing. 

(^) Its furnishing (stove, sink, care of 
table). 

(^) Pantry or kitchen cabinet. 

(<?) Linen used in kitchen. 

4. The Dining Room. 

(<2) Location, plan and finish. 
(^) Floor, walls, and woodwork. 
(<:) Windows and their fittings. 

5. Furnishing of Dining Room. 

(^d) Porcelains and chinas — domestic 

or imported. 
(^) Glass — pressed or cut. 
\c~) Silver. 
(^) Linens. 

6. The Living Room. 

(^) Location, plan and finish. 
{b^ Floor, walls and ceiling. 
(^) Windows and their fittings. 
(^) Furnishing of living room — dra- 
peries. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xviii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




©rtocoLATE Frosting 

Ready to Use 

Saves you trouble and uncertainty in 
cake making. Add a little water, melt 
and mix, apply the frosting and you 
have a delicious cake. 

BELL'S CHocolate Frost- 
ing has the delicious flavor of the best 
home-made frosting, and is rich and 
smooth. It is always the same. We will 
send (once only) a sample for 10 cents. 

BELL'S Chocolate Frost- 
ing; is made by a careful blending of the 
best and PUREST CHOCOLATE, 
SUGAR AND FLAVOR, mixed in the 
right proportions, and cooked to the 
exact degree necessary to produce a per- 
fect result. 

Ask your grocer. If he will not sup- 
ply you we will send prepaid full size 
package for 40 cents. 

J. S. Bell Confectionery Co., 

Cambridgeport, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Easy Washing 

Next Monday's wash will be done 
easier, and very much better^ if you 
put one-half tea cup fuU of shaved 
rarafflne in the wash boiler. Dis- 
Bolve soap and ParafHne together 
Tsefore adding to the suds. 

Pure Refined 

PARAFFINE 

is a very useful article to have in the house 
— gives a fine gloss to the starched things 
—a beautiful finish to the floors and is 
the best thing in the world to seal 
jelly cups and fruit Jars air tight. 
In handy size cakes at your 
dealer's. 

STANDARD OIL CO. 






A chemically prepared Chamois Skin for pol- 
ishing silver or gold quickly without using Povir- 
der. Paste or Liquid which is harmful, scratching 
and wearing away the surface. 

"STILBOMA" is guaranteed to last for years. 
If your dealer cannot supply you give us his 
name and we will send one to you prepaid 
upon receipt of price. If not satisfactory 
after a weeks trial return it and we will 
refund your money. 

No. 3 ,— (8x14 inches) $.50; No. 2 — 
(15x19) $1.00; No. 1— (19x24) $1.50. 
The Stilboma Mfs. Co. 
556 Society for Savings BIdg. Cleveland, Ohio 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

A Pure, Wholesome Food. 

For Table Jellies, 
Blanc Mange, Char= 
lotte Russe, etc. 

Our Gelatine is pulver- 
ized and dissolves quickly. 
It is therefore the most 
convenient form for fam- 
ily use. 

FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS. 



7. Portable Decorations. 

{a) Pictures. 
{b) Rugs. 
(<f) Bric-a-brac. 
\d) Pillows. 

8. The Hall. 

(^) Location, plan and finish. 
(<5) Floor, walls and ceiling, 
(r) Furnishing. 

9. Bath Room. 

(^) Plumbing. 
{b) Location and furnishing. 
(<f) The tub, lavatory, closet. 
(//) Bath-room fittings. 

10. Bed Rooms. 

{a') Floor, walls and ceiling. 

{b) Windows and their fittings. 

(<;) Beds, linen and other furnishing. 

11. Closets and Clofhes Presses. 
(<3;) Linen closets. 

{b) Clothes closets. 

12. The Care of Attic. 

(<2) The care of the house. 
(^) How to save steps. 

References 

The House, American School of Home 
Economics, by Isabel Bevier, P. H. M. , 
Chicago, 111., 1907. 

The Complete Home, edited by Clara 
E. Laughlin. Pub. D. Appleton & Co., 
New York, 1907. 

(Homes and their Decorations), by L. 
French. Pub. Dodd, 1903. Price ^3.00. 

The Country House, by C. E. Hooper, 
Pub. Doubleday. Price ^3.00. 

Practical Studies in Interior Decorations 
and Furnishings, by H. P. Keilk & E. A. 
Cummins. Pub. M. L. Keith, Minneapo- 
lis. Price ^i.oo. 

Ventilation of Buildings, by W. G. Inow. 
Pub. Nolan, Philadelphia, 1906. Price 50 
cents. 

The Modern Homes, by W. O. Sparrow, 
on linen crash, domestic architecture for 
moderate incomes, exterior, interior deco- 
ration and sanitation. Armstrong, N. Y. 
Price ^•^.00. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not 

XX 



accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




About our New 
Type of Rang'e 




that we introduced last season — it has been re- 
ceived with so much favor that we are now making 
it in two sizes — the " Palace " and the " Castle." 
These new Ranges possess all of the famous and exclusive 
features that have distinguished all of the 

rawtbrd 

(goking-Rdnges 



Single T)amper — T)ock-j^sh Qrates — 
Cup-Joint Oven Flues — Perfected Oven 
— Improved Oven Indicator — 

and in addition have the advantage of being 
without any end hearth, which makes for 
economy of space and convenience in many 
ways. The new method of disposing of the 
ashes — which in these Ranges fall into a hod 
far belov/ the grate — makes their removal 

easier and prevents 

the grates from 

being warped and 

burned out. 

The Coal Hod and Ash Hod are side by side, 
cf same size, and when the ash hod is emptied 
can be returned full of coal. 

The " Palace " is the extra large size ; the 
" Castle " is smaller, but otherwise the same, and 
will suit the majority of families. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue of our many styles of Ranges 

Crawfords have more improvements than 
all others cofnbined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31=35 Union Si, BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 





Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 








THE TAPIOCA 
WITH THE 
PICTURE OF 
THE MINUTE MAN ON 
THE PACKAGE 



In how many ways have you used it, more 
than one or two? The Minute Cook Book 
gives 1 8 tested receipts for the use of Minute 
Tapioca. Start at the first one and go through 
the book. You will like them every one. 

Bear in mind, too, that Minute Tapioca 
isn't simply a dessert article, but a whole- 
some, delicious food, and the more generally 
it can be used, the better for health. Re- 
quires no soaking. Quickly cooked. 

If your grocer hasn't it, send his address 
and 4c. for enough to make one pint. 
Minute Cook Book FREE. 

'WKitman Grocery Co., 
Dept. S Orange, Massachusetts 




Boston Girls are Best, says Kimura 

Japanese Zoologist Says the Young Lady of 
the East Is Nearest His Ideal. 

Eastern girls are placed at the head 
of the women of the United States by T. 
Kimura, representative of the Japanese 
government at the zoologists' congress. It 
was the dainty, winsome and ever charm- 
ing Boston society girl upon whom Mr. 
Kimura based his conclusions. Here is 
what he said in a remarkable interview 
before he left the congress : 

"Yes, I like eastern girls better than 
western girls. In California the women are 
larger, healthier specimens, it is true, and 
and they are more Hght-hearted, but some- 
way I prefer the delicate types you find in 
the East, with their refinement and coy 
shyness. 

"They are more like the maidens of 
the Flowery Kingdom. The western girls 
are certainly easier to become acquainted 
with, for they are more trustful of people 
and very much more talkative, while those 
I have met while in New York and Boston 
are formal and most conservative. Indeed, 
it is next to impossible to make their ac- 
quaintance. But that is as it should be 
with the fair sex. 

" We have it so in Japan. And I my- 
self like that attitude better in a woman. ' ' 



Tomatoes and Mushrooms 

TAKE a can of tomatoes, a dash of 
cayenne pepper, a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of cornstarch, wet with milk, and allow 
all to simmer until the cornstarch is cooked. 
Then add a teaspoonful of grated or fine 
chopped onions, a can of mushrooms, and 
a good tablespoonful of Lea & Perrins' 
Sauce. Cook together thoroughly, fifteen 
or twenty minutes. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxii 



These trade-mark 


criss^ 


™ss 


l^es on every package 


CRESC8 


;FI 


jB 


IID. For 

UIkdyspeptics 


SPECM 


^Xjp^ 


CTl 


hfi FLOUR 


K. C. W 


HMtt 


: 5 


i/E^T FLOUR 


Unlike allj 


(ifher 


k^ 


is. ^^k grocers. 


For4 


00k J 


K. 


mple, write 


FARWEIl & RHMSf WATI 


iRTOm N. V. u. s. h 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Old-FasKioned 



Ask your dealer for "Squire's 
Bag Sausage." It 's the old-fash- 
ioned kind of sausage meat such as 
used to be made on all New Eng- 
land farms in the fall of the year. 
Fry it in thin slices for breakfast. 
You can't find a more delicious 
breakfast dish. r 

Only the choicest, fresh young 
pork is used, seasoned with fragrant, 
freshly ground spices. Wrapped in 
air and moisture proof parchment 
paper and enclosed in a bag of clean 
white cloth, 2 lbs. in each package. 
All dealers in New England sell "SQUIRE'S BAG 
SAUSAGE," or can easily get it. Should you meet with re- 
fusal or excuses, write us and we will see that you are sup- 
plied. 

Sc|tiire*s " Arlington ** Sausage 

Don't forget cur «* Arlii\gtoni Brand " Sausage 
— the very choicest link sausage money will buy. Made with 
as much care as you yourself would use in the preparation of 
food, and put up in i lb. air and moisture proof packages, un- 
opened from the time they leave our factory until they reach 
your kitchen. All good dealers throughout New England 
sell Squire's *' Arlington " Sausage. If you can't get them' 
send us ^i.oo for five i lb. packages and a sample pail of 
Squire's Kettle Rendered Pure Leaf Lard, express prepaid 
within 500 miles of Boston. 

JOHN P. 6JQUIRE (a COMPANY, 
Boston, Mass. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




4 s 6 

ALUMINUM INDIVIDUAL JELLY AND TIMBAL MOULDS 

l-=6 of a pint each 

Packed 1 doz. assorted styles 

POSTPAID 

F. A. IVALKER & CO. 

83-85 Cornhill, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass. 



Will chill more quickly than copper. 
1 a box. 

PRICE $1.50 A DOZEN, 



PTBT ^ would you be happily married and 
UmLlJ, stay so? Use nothing but " NEVER= 



BREAK" Cooking Utensils in your home, 
for Mrs. A. G. Kirk's recipes, free. 



Send 



THE AVERY STAMPING CO., CLEVELAND OHIO 



^'%^-%^%^' 



iiSawyer's 




60 YEARS 

THE PEOPLE'8 

CHOICE 




CRYSTAI* 



Blue 

For the 

Laundry 

DOUBLE 
^ STRENGTH 



Sold in 

Sprinkling 
Top Bottles 

Sawyer's Blue 
gives a beautiful 
tint and restores 
color to lineni 
and goods thai are^ 
worn and f adedo . ^ 

It goes twice as far ^ 

QjQjUO^^- as other Blaea \ 

Be Sure You Get C/iuifX/Pr'cf 

^From Your Dealer OU W J CI Ol 




Library of Home Economics 

" The Library is invaluable ! If I had 
only had it when I began to keep house, 
I should have been saved many bitter 
mistakes, many wasted hours, and many, 
many dollars. It has made me begin 
housekeeping over again on a new basis 
already, and yet I have only begun to 
mine its treasures. ' ' 

This is what Mrs. H. says of the home- 
study courses on the new " Profession of 
Home-making" included in the '-Libra- 
ry ' ' recently pubHshed by the Am. School 
of Home Economics, 643 W. 69 St., 
Chicago. 



Four million pounds of chestnuts are 
consigned every year by the growers in 
the southern departments bordering upon 
the Pyrenees to the city of Paris alone. 
Anyone, wishing to know what be- 
comes of this unconscionable quantity, 
has only to spend in Paris the week which 
intervenes between Christmas and New 
Year's Day, and observe the almost in- 
credible voracity of the French woman and 
the French child for that king of bon-bons 
— Ze ma}'ro7i glace. There are, of course, 
many other uses for the chesnut as an ar- 
ticle of food, not the least important being 
that of hawking them about on little por- 
table stoves in winter. Another very com- 
mon device in France is that of stuffing 
poultry with marrons, while chestnuts of 
the better sort are substituted by many a 
good housewife in France for that too 
expensive luxury the truffle. 



If you will send a two-cent stamp, to pay 
postage, to the Mennen Chemical Co., 
Newark, N. J., they will send you, free, 
one set of Mennen' s Bridge Whist Tal- 
lies, enough for six tables. 



HIGH ALTITUDE COOK BOOK 

The best for High Altitude Cooking 
Reliable^ Practical 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN 
COOK BOOK 

Price $1.50 

For Sale by CAROLINE T. NORTON, 
661 Humboldt St., Dervcr, Cclo, 



Buy advertised goods 



— Do not accept substitutes 
xxiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Save A Spoonful 
in Three 




with the 

IWanning- 
Bo^vman 

"Meteor" 

Coffee Percolator 

By the old method of coffee-making it is necessary to use one-half more than by the 
Manning-Bowman Meteor method, because all the flavor cannot be extracted by boiling without 
getting so much of the bitter, astringent tannic acid that it spoils the coffee and injures the health. 
By the Manning-Bowman Method you extract all the good of the coffee and none of the bad. 

ECONOMY 

One of the greatest advantages lies in the economy, for by this method of percolation only 
two-thirds as much coffee is required as when made by the ordinary methods. The average 
family will use at least one pound of coffee per week at an average price of 30 cents. When 
this coffee is used in the percolator, one-third or 10 cents per week is saved, a total of S5.20 
a year. The percolator therefore pays for itself, and after one year's use actually earns 100% 
profit on the investment. 

Sold by leading dealers in the urn style with alcohol burner or in Coffee Pot Style for use 
on gas stove or range. Over 100 styles and sizes. Write for descriptive booklet " K-19 ." 

MANNING, BOWMAN & CO., Meriden, Conn. 



The 
Pure 
Food 
f\mJ 1 



I The 
Miller 



RALSTON 
Health Food 

The Only Whole 
'^ Wheat Food with 
"^ a Chemist's Cer- 
tificate of absolute 
purity on every 
package. One 
package makes 14 
^ pounds of food, y 
; If your grocer is ^ 
/ not supphed, 
/ write — giving 
his name. 



> 



■ Mi l I JM jJ ilii Ji i i i l l 



Whole Wheat 
Flour, $3.00 per 
half barrel. 

Diabetic Flour in 24- 
pound sacks, 5 cents 
per pound, f. o. b. St. 

Louis. 



RALSTON PURINA MILLS, 

' Where Purity is Paramount " 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 

Tillsonburg, Ont., Port- 
land, Ore. 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 

la camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
omly pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
img deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
®®Iy, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
Send for book of 4j prize reeeipU. 

VNDERWOOD eO.» BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




MA&iO ©0VER 

Magic Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling Piu ; chem- 
ically treated Mnd hygienic; recommended by leadmg 
teachers of cooking. By mail ooc. 

r. A. WALKER & CO. 

83-85 Cornhill, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass. 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE. Pr"Sfey°Ss='« 

desired. Illustrated 66-page booklet, "The Profession of 
Home-Making" on request. 
Am. School of Home Economics, 603 W. 69 St. Chicago, 111. 



Aid the PROBLEM of PREVENTION Against 
TUBERCULOSIS, INDIGESTION, ETC. 

Best food for those notv afflicted: 

NORMALIZED DIETETIC OIL, "NORMLCl" 
For ilAYONNAISE and CHOICE DAILY COOKERY 

The Reason Why? See Free Pamphlet. 

The only OIL prepared under TJ. S. Gov't Inspection, 

Free from Odor, Taste and INDIGESTIBLE ACIDS. 

EDIBLE OILS SALES COMPANY, BOSTON 

38 North Beacon St. Telephone: Brighton, 149-2 



Ih^STANDAI^ HQTAUY 




Duchess Postpones Trip Here 
For Charity 

London, Aug. 5 — The Duchess of 
Marlborough has taken two houses in 
London, which are being comfortably fur- 
nished. One will be for the wives of 
prisoners serving sentences, who will be 
taught laundry work and plain sewing. 
The bishop of London is to dedicate the 
two houses. 

Another charity which the duchess al- 
ready has in progress is a home where 
mothers whose husbands are serving sen- 
tences may take their babies and leave 
them from 8 o'clock in the morning until 
6 o'clock in the evening. The duchess 
goes there, every day, and, it is stated, to 
complete her work, she is giving up her 
proposed visit to America this year. 



A French lady who is widely known as 
a charming entertainer and an original cook 
frequently serves a salad, which has the 
merit of being delicious and her own in- 
vention. She scoops the pulp from ripe, 
plump tomatoes, chills them thoroughly 
and fills with cubes of pineapple. The 
fruit may be used either fresh and un- 
sweetened or be drained from a can or 
jar of home-made preserves. Over it is 
put a spoonful of a creamy boiled dressing. 
The sweetness and pleasant tang of the 
pineapple seem to provide just the neces- 
sary complement of flavor lacking in the 
tomato. Sliced tomato may be used in- 
stead of a tomato cup, and a small spoon- 
ful of the pineapple be laid on the slices. 



Only the other day I heard of a little 
girl who, lunching out, was detected in 
the act of cramming a large, yellow, hand- 
ful of Spanish omelet into the pocket of 
her pink frock. 

''Why, you little pig," exclaimed her 
mother, ''what on earth are you about? 
Put that back on your plate, at once. Why, 
1 never heard of such a thing. What on 
earth do you mean by it? " 

"It is so good, muvver," the child ex- 
plained. " I just -thought I'd take a piece 
home to our cook for a pattern. ' ' 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON 

l:gdkingschqdl 

MAGAZINE 

OFCUIyINAR>Y-SCIENCBAND- 
DOAICSTIC •J&CONOMIC£l 



-ymww. 






THE 

BOSTON ^;y ^/.'^ 

icoking-schoolW 

MAGAZINE 




372 

BOiaSTON ST. 

BOSTON 

AiASSACHUSETTS 



-^ VOL ^- 



%■ 






XII 

November 

1907 

No 4 



ID* A COPY 



^^ 



$1.00 A YEAR 



WP^mimmiSism^m' 



Jr 



Wrapped irt Oixr 
Kictory -Opened in 
^ur Kitchen^. 




THis is tHe way you. buy 
Squire's Arlington Sausage 

IN one-pound packages, double wrapped in parchment paper. They are never 
sold loose or in bulk, but each pound is carefully wrapped and sealed 
before leaving our Sausage Department and need not be opened until it 
reaches your kitchen. This means C^I.EAN FOOD as well as PUKE 
FOOD and is a matter of great importance to particular people. The sealed 
package also protects you from substitution as you know exactly what you are 
receiving. 

Scftlire's A-rlixigton SstXlSage are made from,^the choicest, 
selected lean meat (chopped, not ground) and seasoned with pure spices which we 
grind at our factory. Most first-class dealers in New England carry these goods. 
If, however, you are unable to obtain them from your regular dealer, we 'will send 
within five hundred miles of Boston, Express Prepaid, five one-pound packages of 
Sciuire's Arlington Sa,u.sa.se and a sample pail of vSquire's 
Kettle Rendered Pure Leaf Lard, for one dollar. AVe very much prefer, however, 
to have you get them from your regular dealer. 

Invitation 

Our plant is always open to public inspection and a guide is waiting to show 
you through. Thousands of people annually visit our factory. It is only seven 
minutes' ride from the North Union Station. Be sure and make the trip at your 
first opportunity as it is " One of the Sights of Bostony 

JOHN P. SQUIRE 6 COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 



^^^^ 



J^s^irf 



2)(nner fIDenue for 2)a\> after ZTbanheoivinQ 

" Gather u]5 the fragments that nothing be lost."' 

I 

Cream of Turkey Soup, Croutons. 

Baked Halibut wSteaks, HoUandaise Sauce. 

Boiled Potato Balls. Onion Souffle. 

Turkey and Celery Salad. 

Squash Pie. Coffee. 

II 

Cream of Celery Soup, Browned Crackers. 
Turkey Croquettes, Canned Peas. 

Potatoes Maitre d' Hotel. 

Lettuce, French Dresshig. 
Cranberry Pie or Tarts. Coffee. 

Ill 

Cream of Cauliflower Soup. Bread Sticks (reheated). 

Cold Roast Turkey, Sliced Thin. Sweet Pickled Melon. 

Escalloped Onions. Squash Timbales. 

Mashed Potato Cakes, Baked. Warldorf Salad. 

English ^Muffins, Toasted. Cheese. Coffee. 

Fruit Cocktail. 

Turkey wSouffle, Giblet Sauce, 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Creamed Celery au Gratin. 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style, (reheated). 

Cold Cauliflower, French Dressing. 

Nut and Raisin Souffle, (Like Prune Whip). 

Cream. Coffee. 



Suppex /IDenu tox Ubanksoivtno Ba^ 

Chicken wSalad in Tomato Jelly Cups. Olives. 

Brookline Biscuit. 

Golden Parfait, with French Fruit. 

Peppermints, Maple Fondant with Nuts, ^Marrows Glace, 

Creole Coffee. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XII 



NOVEMBER 



No. 4 



Food Notes In Shantung, North China 



Bx LILIAN E. TINGLE 



D 



ID you have to eat Chinese 
food ? " " Is n't the food perfectly 
dreadful ? " " Could you get any- 
thmg but rice?" ''Don't they eat all 
kinds of horrible messes ? " Such were the 
questions put to me by sympathizing 
friends and acquaintances on my return 
from a recent visit in the interior of 
the province of Shantung, China. 

The average person who has no partic- 
ular knowledge or experience of the Chi- 
nese is prone to picture them as subsist- 
ing chiefly on rice and tea, with perhaps, 
dried rats, puppy-dog stew, and bird's 
nest soup by way of luxuries. 

In Shantung, however, rice is scarcely 
eaten at all except by people who have 
come from some southern province. 
Wheat, in one form or another, is the 
staff of life of the common people ; and it 
is rather interesting to note that the 
Shantung peasant, (according to those 
who know both), is of sturdier physique 
and character 
of the South. 

Millet and kiao-liang - 
sembling sorghum, are 
raised in Shantung. Beans are a very 
important crop ; and immense quantities of 
various kinds of greens and root vegetables 
are grown in the neat little gardens where 
careful irrigation and patient hand tillage 



than his rice-eating brother 



- a tall plant re- 
also extensively 



produce results amazing to Western eyes. 

It was my lot to travel, somewhat ex- 
tensively, away from the beaten track of 
the globe-trotter. I had peculiarly good 
opportunities, both in large towns and 
tiny villages,, of satisfying the curiosity 
natural to a daughter of Eve and a do- 
mestic science teacher to boot; and I 
frankly confess that I enjoyed Chinese 
food, and found many valuable suggestions 
for future use. 

No, I didn't taste everything ; one 
must draw the hne somewhere. But 
every wayside tea-house or restaurant-, 
and every food pedler wailing like a lost 
soul, every lunching coohe, or happily 
feasting family party were objects of keen- 
est interest; and I most thoroughly en- 
joyed the hospitahty of our friends among 
the Chinese of the wealthy official class, 
where I found kindly answers to my eager 
and very unconventional questions con- 
cerning food and the cooking thereof. 

There are several forms of bread in 
common use, but practically all are either 
steamed or baked on a kind of griddle. 
The stoves are made of clay with a sort of 
bellows arrangement, with which great 
heat can cpiickly be obtained from the 
dried grass and kiao-Hang stalks com- 
monly used for fuel. Ovens are almost 
unknown in household use. 



156 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Of griddle bread, the most satisfying 
seems to be a kind of round, hard, flat 
cake, about 16 inches in diameter, and 
I 1-2 inches thick, which provides excel- 
lent chewing. You may often meet a 
traveler or a farmer going to his day's 
work with a big fragment of this bread 
stuck hke a weapon in his girdle. 



which has been exposed to the winds of 
heaven and the dust of earth on the deal- 
er's tray; but other purchasers have no suck 
scruples. 

A little girl, (not a poor child either ), 
was asked, " What would you do if you 
had $1. 00 casli ? ' ' Like a flash came the 
answer, '-Buy momma." Fancy a well- 




Hut of Kiao-liang Stalks and Mud 



Then there are huge pancakes, 18 or 
20 inches in diameter, and as thin as 
paper. You can buy these straight off 
the griddle, and moving on to the next 
pedler, you can get a savory mess of 
onions and greens, or some mysterious 
meat balls, which you wrap up in your 
pan-cakes as if they were really the paper 
they resemble, and depart, munchino" 
your parcel with great comfort and con- 
venience. 

The finest wheat bread in Shantung is 
called " mantou " or "momma." It 
comes in pale thimble-shaped rolls about 
3 inches high. Often there are little dabs 
of red paint on the top, like the "good 
luck ' ' marks often seen on the broAvs of 
the tiny brown babies that roll in the 
brown dust. Apropos of that same brown 
dust, the discreet foreigner who eats 
momma usually peels cff the outside skin, 



dressed American child using pocket 
money to buy l)read. 

Macaroni, or rather noodles, may be 
seen everywhere, and is aj^parently cheap, 
wholesome and satisfying. One of my 
earHest experiences with chop-sticks oc- 
cured during an afternoon call upon the 
daughter of a wealthy official. 

Tea and a huge dish of noodles and 
ham were the "dainty refreshments" 
served. AVe had no plates; just slender 
silver chop-sticks, and a tiny saucer of 
soy. The problem was, — first catch 
your noodles from the bowl in the centre 
of the table ; then dip them neatly in the 
soy ; then convey the dripping morsels to 
your mouth, without lavishing undue 
contributions on the table and your best 
dress. 

Apart from the mental strain involved 
in this operation I found the dish deli- 



FOOD notp:s in shantung, north china 



157 



cious, and my hostess gave me the recipe. 
The recipe in itself is neither very exact 
nor very helpful; Init some day I shall set 
,.0 work by the light of nature, domestic 
"-c^*ence and memory, and try to repro- 
d'U/ie the concoction for the benefit of my 
tristful family. 

The flour or meal from which the 
bread or noodles are made is usually 
gro;nid in most primative fashion, be- 
tweei. a flat stone and a slightly conical 
roller, turned by donkey, or wife-power. 

In ever]^ village you may see ' ' two 
women grinding at the mill"; and "the 
ox that treadeth out the corn" (muzzled, 
poor beast, in most unscriptural fashion^) 
pacing round and round the ancient hard- 
stamped threshing floor. 

After the wheat, . millet, and kiao-hang 
have had their turn on the threshing floor, 
there comes the bean harvest — beans 
black, white, red and green. From these 
are made three important articles of diet : 
( I ) bean-curd, which is sold everywhere 
in dingy white cubes, like cream-cheese 



sauce already mentioned. Soy is used by- 
rich and poor, and with all kinds of dishes, 
almost as universally as we use salt. It is 
familiar to most of us in this country, as 
the foundation of Worcestershire and sim- 
ilar sauces. Meat is little used by the 
very poor, though the well-to-do Chinese 
eat a good deal of it. Pork is the most 
important kind. The pigs are black, ac- 
tive creatures, with long noses and *' in- 
satiable curiosity," like the Elephant's 
Child, in the Just So Stories, as he was 
before he found out what the Crocodile 
had lor dinner. 

There was a certain country-bred servant 
who was taken by his English master to 
Shanghai. Big ships, trains, street cars, 
elevators, telephones, machinery, all these 
he saw for the first time without a flicker 
of astonishment. But there came a day 
when his master found him full of excite- 
ment and admiration. ' • Look, look, 
master ! Heap wonder! One white pig ! " 

My wonder was how such very much 
alive black pigs could furnish such very 




Street Scene in Chinanf 



that has seen better days; ( 2 ) a bright 
yellow jelly of awesome appearance, un- 
known name and no particular flavor ; (3) 
by fermentation, soy, the dark brown 



looking 



])ork 



white, very dead 
offered for sale. 

No part of the pig is wasted; there are 
mysteries and dehcatessen shops which 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



my dietetic curiosity shrank from exploring. 
Goats and sheep feed together by the 
road-side; both are used for food, and the 



all, which is particularly prized by epicures. 

Once, however, in a Shantung village 

we came upon a man dressing a carcass 




Hill Temple, Shantung. Food Pedl r in Foreground 



same word stands for the meat of each. 
If you have a prejudice in favor of sheep- 
meat, you must ask particularly for " large- 
tailed mutton. ' ' 

Foreigners desiring beef will have to 
content themselves with steaks of aged 
donkey, unkss there are beef-eating Mo- 
hammedans in their district. Even then 
it is well to be cautious as to the source 
of supply. 

There was a family of steak-loving 
Americans, whose cook announced that he 
knew where good beef could be had, and 
asked for a day off, in order to fetch it 
from a distant village. 

All day the expectant f^miily babbled of 
Porterhouse and Prime Rib Roasts. In 
the evening came a very weary and disai - 
pointed cook. ''Velly solly. No beef 
have got. Man say, ' cow no die, soon 
get well. ' ' ' 

And the family was glad of her recov- 
ery ! 

Dog meat is rarely eaten except in the 
South where there is a special breed of 
black dogs — black all over, tongue and 



hung from a convenient tree, while his 
women folk and half a dozen children 
sc^uatted in a circle meditating, with 
watering mouths, on savory meals to 
come. At first we thought they were 
lamb chops that he was cutting so care- 
fully ; but a glance at the skin suggested 
a doubt and a (piestion. 

"Yes," was the reply, -'dog, good 
and fat I " 

There is a highly esteemed species of 
field rat, which, grain-fed and plump, is 
said to be delicate and delicious : more- 
over the meat is said to be a cure for 
baldness. It will surely make two hairs 
grow where one grew before — and yet. 
sad to relate, there are numbers of bald- 
headed old Avomen to be seen in the vil- 
lages. Can it be th'at their lords and 
masters keep the rats all to themselves ? 

Fowls and ducks are much used, es- 
pecially for festival occasions. Geese are 
more rare. Live geese appear in mar- 
riage processions. I am told they symbo- 
lize conjugal fidelity. 

Eggs are plentiful and incredibly cheap, 



FOOD NOTES IN SHANTUNG, NORTH CHINA 



159 



at least to the mind of one accustomed to 
American city prices. There is one egg- 
dish however that is not cheap. It is a 
great dehcacy, and appears at most ban- 
quets. The eggs have been prepared by 
being buried two years or so in quick- 
lime. The yolk is pale oHve green, the 
white a clear brownish jelly ; and the fla- 
vor is dehcate and really delicious. 

All kinds of fish are freely eaten. 
Shrimps and crabs are particularly 
esteemed. The former are very good 
stewed, fried or boiled. I did not ven- 
ture on the raw shrimps sometimes 
served at banquets. Crabs are soaked in 
wine and soy and eaten without cooking. 

Cuttle-fish, jelly fish, beche-de-mer (sea- 
slug) and shark-fin are considered de- 
licious, by foreigners, as well as l)y Chi- 
nese. The two last are the most expen- 
sive dishes after the famous bird's nest 
soup. All three depend on their sauces 
for flavor, being bland and gelatinous, but 
not tasty in themselves. 

There are many sweet meats and cakes 
to be had. Green rice, nuts and sugar 
enter chiefly into the composition of 
these. I counted 1 7 varieties on a tray, 



presented to us on one occasion when 
we were invited to drink tea with the 
head priest of a certain temple. 

Most frequently seen were cakes like 
fossihzed doughnuts sprinkled with rice 
grains. These are threaded on strings 
and conveniently carried, slung round the 
neck of the purchaser, or dangling from 
the handle of his wheel-barrow. 

There is also a certain cake, called 
"■ Moon cake," which is eaten during the 
great autumn moon festival — the 15th 
day of the 8th moon. There is an inter- 
esting resemblance between these and 
the old Enghsh simnel cakes eaten at Eas- 
ter — also a moon festival. Our Easter 
rabbits, too, have their counterparts in the 
rude, painted clay '' Moon rabbits," given 
to Chinese children during this festival. 

Dried melon seeds are used by young 
and old for nibbhng purposes. They are 
the inevitable accompaniment of the 
''dish of tea and gossip" which the 
Chinese woman enjoys as much as does 
her Western sister ; and the discarded 
black and yellow hulls are as widely dis- 
tril)uted over the surface of the country as 
our own ubiquitous American peanut shell. 




Familiar Objects in Colonial Times 




Fresh-gathered Cranberries 



The Thanksgiving Berry 

Bx EVELYN PRICE C A HO ON 



DOWN knee- deep in sphagnum 
moss I went. It was in a cran- 
berry bog in northern Minnesota. 
The cranberry loves the sand, so at a Ut- 
tle distance the jackpines made a fretted 
sheker from the hot September sun, for 
the pine tree also loves the sand. . 

Close around there was only a waste of 
spongy moss overlaid with a growth of 
cranberry vines, for this was the dried bed 
of what had once been the upper end of 
the blue lake we could see glittering in 
the sun. 

The cranl)erry is particular as to its 
home. It must be sandy loam — never 
clay. It does not object to a flooding, on 
the contrary rather hkes it — especially in 
the fall when the hard frosts might nip 
the berries, and the flooding prevents the 
freeze. 

But the cranberry does like drainage 
and so roots itself into sharp sand along 
the sea-shore or along ,the borders of the 
Great Lakes in Ohio, Michigan, Wiscon- 
sin and Minnesota. 



Along the Atlantic, the cranberry bogs 
have been made much of, and cultivated 
to the betterment of the berry, both in 
size and flavor ; but along the northern 
part of the country the wild berry only is 
found. 

The berry is wild and the place wherein 
it grows is often wild. Miles and miles, 
that have never known of civihzation ex- 
cept by the woodman's axe, are dotted 
here and there with plats of marsh land 
overgrown with wire-stemmed vines that 
produce what was once called the crane- 
berry, because of the resemblance of the 
flower to the head of a crane. The vine 
is hardy or it would not withstand the 
rough usage of those who ruthlessly up- 
root the vines in a careless effort to ob- 
tain the fruit. 

Whole famihes at a time go out to pick 
the berries by the bushel. The plant 
blossoms in June. In September, al- 
though the berry is still a delicate pale 
green, the swamps are invaded, for the 
rule is, "First come, first served," or 



160 



THE THANKSGIVING BERRY 



I6l 



perhaps more properly, '^ Finding 's keep- 
ing," as little boys say. 

For many a family, in its first year of 
settlement in the "burntover lands," 
among the northern pines, this cranberry 
crop, together with that of the blueberry 
and the wild red raspberry, provides the 
only supply of actual cash. 

Father, mother and children hurry each 
morning into the marsh, where all but the 
very youngest spend the day picking with 
might and main. It is not delicate work, 
this picking. The practiced hand runs 
the fingers, curved upward and spread 
rake-like, under the wiry branches, and 
then draws them upward retaining the 
round green-white berries but allowing the 
tiny flake-like leaves to fall back through. 
A smart picker can gather several bushels 
a day, and they sell at about a dollar and 
a half or two dollars a bushel in the gro- 
cery at the nearest town. From here they 
are shipped in crates to the city and, when 
they finally reach the housewife, are selling 
at twelve and a half cents a quart or four 
dollars a bushel. 

At this and at the blueberry season the 
Indians on the remaining reservations are 
allowed to leave the reserve to pick and 
sell the berries. They are reckless in 
their picking as, indeed, are some of the 
whites; and have no regard for the life of 
the vines. Many use a sort of pronged 
scoop, which they run under the stems, 
raising up the fruit, but also unfortunately 
dragging up the vines by the roots. 

Along the eastern coast, as the berry 
became scarce, and the price proportion- 
ally high, the thrifty Yankee set out new 
plants in the old bogs. It is easily done, 
for the stems take root readily if simply 
thrust in the sand, and in three years from 
rooting are producing fruit like the native 
plant. This is one method of field plant- 
ing, setting the httle bunches of twigs some- 
thing less than a foot apart, all over the 
field. 

Another method practiced is to cut a 
quantity of twigs into inch-long pieces, and 
scatter them broadcast like wheat and 
harrow them in. 



In these cultivated fields, where the 
berry is protected, there is no need of 
picking before the fruit is ripe, so it is 
not gathered until crimson in October. 
When the early frosts of September come 
on, the farmer as a measure of protection 
floods his fields by a system of irrigation 
similar to that in use on the arid plains of 
the west. 

This is the season when on clear, still 
nights, ''As busy as a cranberry mer- 
chant ' ' comes to have a meaning ; for 
the owner of a field must hustle around 
and get all the little squares between the 
irrigating ditches flooded a foot and a 
half deep before he can go to bed. 

The berries that are raised on Cape 
Cod have the name of being, in size and 
flavor, the best produced. Next are 
valued those raised in New Jersey and 
New York. But they are all needed, for 
it takes five hundred thousand bushels to 
carry the nation through the jubilant 
month of November, and somewhat over 
another five hundred thousand to last the 
rest of the year. 

The western wild berry is higher col- 
ored but smaller and of not quite so 
delicate flavor, and is all bought up out 
west. 

Who ever heard of just the right kind 
of Thanksgiving without cranberries ? And 
the Thanksgiving cranberries, like the 
Thanksgiving turkey, lasts in well-regu- 
lated homes for two or three days. 

I remember I dodged once a recur- 
rence of the left-over turkey two or three 
days after Thanksgiving, by going to a 
friend's to luncheon. And what do you 
think she had ? Turkey Pink. Turkey 
again, you see. 

I will tell how she made it, for it was 
good. She put through the colander the 
cranberry sauce left from the turkey din- 
ner, added to it a spoonful of gelatine, 
dissolved, stirred in a cup of chopped 
turkey meat, and set to harden in a 
mould. When cold it cut like cheese. 

The luncheon closed with large cran- 
berries, candied like cherries and equally 
as good. 



His Stepmother 



By ALIX THORN 



DICK hadn't altogether decided 
how she would look, though it is 
fair to say that he had given some 
thought to the subject. She would prob- 
ably be tall, stout, business-like, as was 
Jack Bainbridge's mother, possess a firm, 
gray pompadour, and watch one severely 
from under it, as did Mrs. Whiting across 
the street, or may be use an awe-inspiring 
lorgnette, on the order of Aunt Georgi- 
ana' s. 

He stood before the French window, in 
the library, silently watching the October 
sky grow yellow with sunset. A church 
spire stood out against the brightness, with 
the distinctness of a silhouette. Shadows 
were gathering in the long room, the street 
lamps were being lighted, and now, far 
down the drive, he heard the noise of 
wheels. The carriage stopped before the 
entrance; he saw his father helping out a 
slim some one in dark furs, arnd his step- 
mother had come. 

He found himself looking at his father as 
one would look at a stranger. How could 
he have done it, married this, yes, this 
girl ! Why, soft brown waves half covered 
her white forehead, and the wide-open eyes 
that met his, recalled the shy little damsel 
from next door, whom, in his weaker 
moments, he sometuiies condescended to 
notice — just such appeahng gray eyes had 
his small neighbor. And big, why, this 
stepmother wasn't any bigger than some 
of the girls -who went to the academy ! All 
this he decided in the first, long, compre- 
hensive look. 

'' Dick," said his father, ''here 's your 
mother, is n' t she splendid, Dickie ?' ' His 
father was looking down at the girl at his 
side, and Dick's jealous eyes noted the ad- 
miration in his face. 

" So this is Dick ! " said a low voice- — 
"I hope you are going to hke me, Dick." 
With the stoicism of thirteen the boy 



braced himself for the expected kiss, but it 
did not materialize, only a small, gloved 
hand found his reluctant one, and gave it 
a firm squeeze — the danger was over. 
" He don't need me," he said bitterly to 
himseh, "he 's got that girl now — us two 
used to be enough." But as he tramped 
away to his own room, his Latin grammar 
under his arm, he longed with all his sus- 
picious boy heart for his father, the father 
of old days, the strong, sympathetic father 
of a month ago, as he was before he went 
away to get this stepmother. Saturday 
evenings had always been Dick's happiest 
ones, for then he had the joy of possessing 
utterly his busy lawyer father. 

Everything was given up to this visit in 
the den, and bed time, ever delayed, came 
heart-breakingly soon; they both felt it so. 
All through his necessarily lonely little boy- 
hood, he had comforted himself with the 
knowledge that his evening was coming, 
only seven days between the blissful occa- 
sions — and now. 

As Saturday came, the first Saturday 
after the return of the travelers, Dick grew 
hopelessly depressed. No wonderful visits 
to look forward to, for always an undesired 
third must be present. Dinner was a 
tempting one; the very things the boy most 
liked made their appearance, but his appe- 
tite was gone, he played with his food and 
was relieved when the long meal was at 
last over. 

As he went slowly down the hall, half an 
hour later, he saw the den door standing 
invitingly open. Mr. Meredith sat smok- 
ing peacefully in his great Morris chair, and 
stretched out a welcoming hand to the sober 
boy who entered. ' ' Come, youngster, "he 
said, in his deep voice, ' ' come, it ' s a long 
time since we ' ve had one of our good visits 
— tell me about everything ! " Dick had 
a funny, tight little feehng in his throat, as 
he drew a chair close to his father's, and 



HIS STEPMOTHER 



163 



leaned his dark head against the rough coat. 
But he straightened suddenly as a rustle of 
skirts, and a light step sounded outside. 
The boy's lips tightened into a firm line, 
that recalled his father's. She was com- 
ing. 

''Here, Edith," called Mr. Meredith, 
"come, we're both here, you see." 

"Oh, no, no," she made answer, "I 
just came to shut you in — as if I didn't 
know that neither of my men want me now, 
or any other Saturday evening. I ' m going 
to leave you to have a good long talk. ' ' 
The door closed noiselessly, and she was 
gone. 

"Isn't she a square little mother, 
Dickie?" exclaimed his father. 

"I'm glad she didn't want to stay," 
was the reply in a suppressed tone, and the 
visit began. 

As the days passed a subtle change be- 
came apparent in the old house. . Pots of 
blossoming flowers brightened the rooms, 
quaint, luminous shades glowed upon the 
lamps — even the well-known chairs looked 
more inviting in their altered positions. 

Dick's room, too, was transformed, the 
despised frilly curtains gave place to com- 
fortable short ones, that could easily be 
pushed aside. A broad reading table re- 
placed an uncertain, slender-legged affair 
he had always used, while new cushions, 
in rich, dark tones, dressed his faded win- 
dow seat. The woman touch was making 
itself felt. To himself, Dick grudgingly 
acknowledged the improvements, while his 
stepmother went on her even way as if she 
neither hoped for, nor expected, thanks. 

With infinite pains, the boy managed 
never to address the latest member ot the 
family by her new title. In fact, he did 
not call her anything, there were eager 
questions enough for his father, but with 
his stepmother, that was quite a different 
thing. Yet, if she had n' t been his step- 
mother; if she were some other fellow's, he 
would actually think her pretty, he thought, 
as she presided at the end of the table, or 
sat before the piano, softly touching the 
keys. She seemed to know a good many 
tunes, too. Those white gowns of hers 



were so white and dainty. Why, they 
trailed behind her, twisting and turning in 
the oddest fashion, and didn't appear to 
be in her way, either. Dick always pulled 
himself together, when he realized he was 
watching her. More than once her eyes 
had met his questioningly, as if asking him 
to say what were his thoughts, and then he 
would turn abruptly away, wondering bit- 
terly why she had to come among them, 
this disturbing stepmother. 

They met in the school yard one Mon- 
day afternoon, Dick, Jack Bainbridge and 
two other boys, to discuss the football game 
scheduled for the end of the week. ' ' The 
trouble is fellows, ' ' said a tall, serious look- 
ing boy, " it 's so far over to the field, we 
can' t expect much of a crowd. Why, lots 
of the girls are n' t going. If we could have 
had it at Farnum Field, where we always 
have before, the grand stand would be 
full." 

"You know. Parsons," broke in Dick, 
impatiently, " it ' s our own fault, it was n' t 
engaged in time, and the Business College 
boys were bright enough to get in ahead. ' ' 

"It's too late to talk about it now, at 
any rate," remarked John Bainbridge, 
sensibly. "We must just crack the game 
up for all it ' s worth, regularly boom it ! 
Get posters up, and make all our families 
come out. My mother, sister and brother 
are coming — Timmie 's little, but he can 
yell, and he's another, on count." 

"I'm sort of ashamed to show the visit- 
ing team a slim crowd, ' ' began another boy, 
who had joined the group; my aunt, and 
cousin from Vassar are going, besides 
mother and father, even if it is a bad day, 
I made ' em promise. ' ' 

' ' Can anybody go from your house, 
Dick?" inquired Jack. Dick looked off 
towards a bed of late asters by the hedge. 
' ' Father ' s too busy, ' ' he answered briefly, 
and his friend' s reply was to throw an affec- 
tionate arm over Dick's shoulder. "The 
coach praised you today, Dick," he said, 
"you 're going to put in some good work 
for the school. Gee, but you can run, old 
fellow." 

A biting wind blew over the field, wan- 



164 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



dering snowflakes fluttered down from the 
gray November sky, while the battle raged 
fast and furious. Now, out of the strug- 
gling mass of arms and legs, emerged a 
sturdy boy figure, and sped down the frozen 
field with two stalwart runners in pursuit. 
Now one was gaining on him — surely gain- 
ing — was he caught? No, no, he was 
still ahead, how hopelessly far to both run- 
ners and spectators did those goal posts 
seem. Dick clutched the ball desperately 
— stumbled — struggled up, and finally, 
fairly fell over the line, yes, safely 
over. 

He had made the coveted touchdown for 
the Academy, frenzied cheers arose from 
the side lines, wild applause from the grand 
stand, but, yet, something more was ex- 
pected of him. Could he make that other 
point that was so much needed? Dick 
stepped back, measuring the distance — 
oh, he must hold himself steady. Into the 
air whirled the pig-skin — on the bar it 
poised for an instant, as if uncertain, then 
^^ Meredith ! Meredith ! " broke forth; he 
had kicked the goal. The whistle sounded, 
and the first half was over. 

Around Dick crowded the happy Acade- 
my boys, Jack Bainbridge hugged him 
ecstatically, the smiling coach slapped him 
approvingly on the back. 

His heart swelled with the joy of achieve- 
ment — oh, if his father could have come 
to see and hear it all. the applause, the 
praise, the wonder of it, how glad he would 
have been ! 

Involuntarily the boy raised his eyes to 
the grand stand, as if searching for the one 
he longed to see. He noticed Mrs. Bain- 
bridge, one of his teachers, rows of familiar 
faces, and then Dick caught his breath — 
who was that leaning forward, her cheeks 
as scarlet as the school colors that fluttered 
from her coat? His stepmother, and how 
happy she looked, how proud. Why, one 
of his family, one of his name was there. 



and in a flash it was made plain to the boy 
that joys that affected him affected her. 
No longer could she be an outsider. She 
was, yes, she was, his mother. He felt 
strangely thrilled, strangely satisfied, and 
acting on an irresistible impulse, he waved 
his hand above his head, just as he would 
have done to his father. His eyes met 
hers as she waved back. 

The game was over, the Academy had 
won. Academy flags were fluttering, lusty 
Academy voices were raised in triumph. 
The vanquished eleven were soberly march- 
ing off the field. 

Dick turned to his friend, who was stand- 
ing near. '' Jack, " he began, " my mother 's 
up there in the grand stand ' ' — how easily 
he said the new name — '■ '■ you, and Carter 
and Hazleton come along and see her." 
She was expecting him, waiting lor him, 
glowing, transfigured. 

''Mother," he said quickly, ''here axe 
some of the fellows — fellows, this is my 
mother." 

They shook hands vigorously, watching 
her with open admiration. So this was 
Dick' s new mother, and how naturally she 
visited with them; she knew what to talk 
about. ii^he'd seen plenty of the big 
games — she liked football, and, to think, 
Traynor, the great half back, was her 
cousin ! At last, they turned to go, but 
Dick hesitated, waited an instant, and then 
turned back. "It was mighty fine of you 
to come," he said slowly, "it's — it's 
pretty far out here; if you '11 wait, I '11 be 
ready in a few minutes, and walk over to 
the station with you. ' ' 

Still she smiled, but now those innocent 
eyes of hers shone through a mist of tears. 
"I '11 wait, Dick," was her reply. "No, 
thank you very much," he heard her say 
to Mrs. Parsons, as he ran down the steps 
— "it would be very delightful to go out in 
your automobile, but, you see, my boy 
wants me to walk over with him. ' ' 



The Driblet Box or a New Instalment 

Method 



By HELEN CAMPBELL 



THE little houses on the quiet sub- 
urban street were side by side, so 
near that the baby could have 
been handed across for inspection, as I 
once saw high over my head in a nar- 
row street of Genoa, the Superb, the 
pretty peasant mother smiling down at my 
astonished face. 

In this case there was no baby, and 
thick sash -curtains cut off general inspec- 
tion as much as possible, though the 
young couples in each had been friends 
from babyhood up, married at the same 
time, each husband with the same amount 
of salary, each wife lost in experiments as 
to how much farther each dollar might be 
made to go. One of them was a college 
graduate with a course of Household 
Economics added, the other a High 
school girl, who had studied stenography 
and type-writing, and been for a year 
private secretary, both of them accustomed 
to making their income do its utmost. 
Both of them loved pretty things, despis- 
ing cheap and flimsy ornament or struc- 
ture of any sort, and going without till a 
really good thing could be afforded. 

The difficulty was it seldom could be 
afforded. The fixed charges, the inevita- 
bles of rent, and all the accompaniments 
of household expenses, left next to no 
margin, and what there was of it disap- 
peared unaccountably. 

''We won't be dominated too much 
by the pennies," they had said in the 
beginning. '' There must be a little sense 
of freedom for both of us ; only a little of 
course, since the free fund is simply ridic- 
ulously small. And the pretty mistress 
of Number Nine, as she heard this con- 
clusion, nodded assent yet looked thought- 
ful, for the same wish was in the mind of 
each. Both the houses, built by an ar- 



chitect, who had made the most of his 
space, had an unusually broad piazza for 
which, after the first year, ampelopsis and 
other vines had made a delightful screen 
from passers by as well as afternoon sun, 
and shaker rocking chairs and a table 
made it tea or sewing or general recep- 
tion room, at will. But there was still 
full room for a coveted rattan lounge, and 
over its lack both Number Nine and Num- 
ber Seven sighed. 

For Number Nine to let it go with a 
sigh was impossible. In fact sighs were 
not in the least in her line, some way to 
attainment was sought steadily and silently, 
and as her eyes now and then rested on 
the empty space the young husband 
laughed. 

' ' We might agree to break our rule for 
once, and get it on the instalment plan, " 
he said, but the mistress shook her head. 

''No. We settled in the beginning not 
to, and knew it was best. But we've 
got to save up somehow on sundries, per- 
haps, for that covers such a lot of little 
things we agreed not to specify, because 
really it is n' t your business or mine to 
give account to each other of what might 
be just a sudden whim, or a need not fore- 
seen. Anyhow, twenty dollars might as 
well be two hundred, it would seem, as 
far as that lounge is concerned, and I 
won't have any makeshifts of the pack- 
ing box, excelsior and denim order of 
architecture, though of course I could 
put up with a good National spring and 
mattress, if that did not mean nearly two 
thirds of the twenty. I must think. ' ' 

"There ought to be a raise for me 
next year, but that won't help this one," 
the husband said meditatively. ' ' Give it 
up, Jessica. It's very comfortable and 
jolly just as it is. " 



165 



1 66 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



' ' We don' t stop at part-way comforta- 
ble. It's got to be perfect and it shall 
be, somehow. You '11 have to run for 
your car, Richard, dear, you've stayed so 
long," and Richard ran, a fact to which 
he was well accustomed, being given to 
lingering to the last minute in this fascin- 
ating spot which it still surprised him to 
count as his own. 

A week or two went by with no further 
mention of the lounge, till a Saturday 
evening at the end of the month when 
they went over accounts together. His 
wife' s system of small boxes, each marked 
with the purpose of the money it held, 
always amused him and he laughed aloud 
as he saw the latest addition, a little Jap- 
anese one marked, '' THE SURPLUS 
FUND." 

*' That's distinctly a superfluity," he 
said. ''There isn't and there can't be 
a surplus. ' ' 

" But there is. Don't you remember 
that evening you dropped a half dollar 
and I said I wanted it — had a special use 
for it?" 

' ' Now that you remind me. Is that all ? " 

''No indeed. You see when I found 
there was really a start, for I put it at 
once into this box, I determined to watch 
my own sundry fund and save out what 
ever I could. Also I resolved not to 
count it and that has been the hardest 
thing of all, because I did get so curious 
as to just how much it really may be. 
There were several little things I had 
meant to get that I did without, the latest 
kink in stocks and some other odds and 
ends." 

" There are always kinks in stocks and 
you must n' t invest without talking it 
over. What could make you think of 
stocks ? Anybody left you a legacy ? ' ' 

"What a thing a man is. Have you 
lived with me two years and not found out 
that this article around the neck of a woman 
is known as a stock? Never mind 
your ignorance though, the point is we are 
now going to count the contents, a good 
lot of half pennies I should say." 

"That means ice-cream sodas with 



Number Seven, and a lot of car fares, for 
I have been walking everywhere and shall 
have to have new shoes a month sooner 
than usual." 

" What ? Have you been saving up too ? " 

" Of course, when I knew you were at 
it child. You didn't suppose I would let 
you have all the credit and not go shares? 
But I was astonished to find how much 
more than I could have thought possible 
has just dribbled away ; three or four news- 
papers a day, when one is quite enough, 
and all that sort of thing. Now count, for 
this excitement is quite too much for me. ' ' 

The half dollar had become a founda- 
tion, it proved, for eleven quarters, twenty 
ten cent pieces, followed by eighteen nick- 
els, one hundred and twenty pennies, and, 
last, a five dollar bill, a grand total of 
twelve dollars and thirty-five cents. 

" That five is the only real renunciation, 
Richard. It meant long gloves for the 
theatre and that garden party, but I man- 
aged perfectly well without them. I never 
could have believed there would be so 
much. Now yours. " 

" No such pihng of wealth as yours, Httle 
woman, but I was amazed when I counted 
it at the office. I put it in an old purse 
in my desk drawer, and changed it into 
bills you see, because it was heavy to 
carry. Here they are, all small to make 
it seem more ; four ones, a two and a 
five, and sixty cents over: total, eleven 
sixty, plus twelve thirty-five. By George ! 
It's the lounge and a pillow to boot I 
should say, or whatever you elect," and he 
waltzed the owner of this unexpected 
wealth up and down the room, a boy still 
in spite of his nearly thirty years. 

That was the beginning of the system 
still adhered to, what has long been known 
as "The Driblet Box," receiving what- 
ever contributions the special object de- 
sired may bring forth. Ned, aged eight, 
and Walter, nearly six, have the same faith 
in the system, and from their allowance ol 
five cents a week for Walter and ten for 
Ned have saved birthday and Christmas 
funds surprising in amount. In short, 
for the family as a whole the method is a 



OVERALLS AND APRONS 



167 



settled one, and Number Seven, though 
not equally successful, still uses it for the 
otherwise unattainable, and has even writ- 
ten a club paper for the Household 
Economic Section, on "The Driblet Box 
and its Meaning in Household Eco- 
nomics," ending: ''Stern moralists insist 



that driblets are immoral, since they en- 
courage lavishness and deplete small in- 
comes, but long experience convinces 
me that they are or should be part of 
man's free-will, and regarded as a tribute 
to the real self-sacrifice a real cause en- 
genders and continues." 



Overalls and Aprons 



By KATE GANNETT WELLS 



I 



F ever I fell in love, ' ' said a society 
girl to her friend of the dress coat, 
it would be with a man in overalls 
and not with the bare-legged and bare- 
armed variety of man found in summer 
camps, where the simple life is affected. 
Overalls are so appropriate when one has 
got to work, there is no sham in them." 

''And if ever I should set up a heart to 
heart flirtation," replied her listener, "it 
would be with a girl who wore her apron 
in the afternoon when she was getting 
supper. That kind makes a good wife. ' ' 

"Well, my husband never shall sit 
down to dinner in his shirt sleeves," re- 
torted the girl. 

"And my wife shall always wear her 
apron, ' ' insisted the man. So he and she 
never married each other, for each left 
out of view the sense of courtesy, which 
takes it for granted that labor, whether of 
man or woman, has its days off", when 
neither overalls nor aprons are worn. 

Yet the how and when they are worn 
are instinctive marks of pedigree. Be- 
cause a man has the physical right not 
to put on his coat when he comes to sup- 
per, he is not justified in his discourtesy 
to his family or in his lack of respect for 
himself Of course it is hard to be on 
good manners all the time with just one's 
self and one's family, but if one is not, 
carelessness soon degenerates into gross- 
ness. And when a woman betrays her 



never ceasing work by her perpetual apron, 
it acts like a disagreeable reproach to 
others. She excuses herself for it by say- 
ing she wears it to keep her dress clean, 
like the young wife who spread " newspa- 
pers over her sitting-room carpet to pre- 
vent its fading, and kept her husband in 
the kitchen. His coat soon hung on a 
peg, and was taken down on Sundays only. 
Aprons, however, are capable of being 
worn adroitly, and are as much a part of 
right dressing as are jewels. Like fans, 
aprons are adapted to many phases of 
existence. In some shops and offices 
they are not allowed, since it is neither 
stylish nor picturesque to be waited upon 
by an apron-clad saleslady with drab linen 
or handkerchief, triangular-folded, cuffs on 
her arms. Whoever saw the head of a 
department or a lady manager walking 
about, girded with any kind of an apron ? 
It is the oft inappropriateness of time and 
place for the wearing of them and the un- 
comfortable inference to be drawn from 
them, that a woman never has any leisure 
or must persistently be saving of her 
dress, which makes aprons objectionable. 
Then who does not know the jerky man- 
ner with which a woman puts on a clean 
apron, when she is provoked at something 
or keeps on a soiled apron, to show she is 
not ashamed of being caught working ! 
Even the way in which a waitress pulls 
out the strings of her apron, as she answers 



i68 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the door bell, tells somewhat of the kind 
of girl she is. Of course, a woman who 
always wears an apron may be a good 
housekeeper, but never can she be a 
steady charmer. Aprons go with aggra- 
vating though necessary qualities of mind, 
while the dainty care, that is not over done 
but is always effective, keeps a front 
breadth clean and has an extra one on 
hand in case of emergency. 

The sensible, dark colored, kitchen 
apron will always hold its own, but it is 
to be hoped, that the wide, waitress and 
the painful-looking, hospital apron can be 
evolved into some garb requiring less 
time for its starching and ironing. The 
coquettish, be-ribboned apron, worn at 
fairs by volunteer helpers, may still abide 
as decorative. But the calico apron, 
which the country lass threw across her 
face when her laddie would kiss her at 
the stile, and the neat, single-breadth 
white aprons of our mothers, and the 
black silk ones of our grandmothers, over 
which they demurely folded their shapely 
hands, are destined to abide only as ten- 
der memories. Would that it were known 
what kind of an apron Madame Washing- 
ton wore when she received callers at 
Valley Forge, and went on with her knit- 
ting, as an example to the young not to 
waste time when soldiers needed socks. 

Surely it is not to be regretted that the 
era of the apron is passing away as an 
ubiquitous appendage of womanhood, 
though it will always survive as an em- 
blem of service, as a self-protecting, do- 
mestic uniform of labor, worn with right 
good grace whenever ,our work necessi- 
tates it, but laid aside in a kind of glory, 
hallelujah spirit, when labor has its 
regular rhythm of cessation, as it certainly 
will have, if our day's work is done with 
knowledge and forethought. 

Unfortunately, overalls create more of a 
class feehng than do aprons, inasmuch as 
they are significant of the ^'mud and 
scum" of labor, for bookkeepers and 
clerks do not wear overalls. It is only 
the courteous, old-fashioned, cleanly gen- 
tleman behind the counter, who disports 



a black alapaca apron, fastened tightly 
and smoothly around his waist. But la- 
borers usually cannot labor without them, 
and as farmers also wear them, overalls 
rise in the social scale of clothes. All 
the same, as they are a sign of manual 
labor, a man clad in them is supposed 
not to have the high breeding of one 
working in shirt sleeves with suspenders 
visible, a very different costume from that 
of the agreeable silk shirt and belted 
trousers. The lack or the provision of 
overalls indicates the character of the 
laborer. The old Scotch lady was not 
wrong in engaging her farm hands accord- 
ing to the position of the threadbare 
places on their trousers. If they were 
worn in the seat, she decided the men 
were lazy, if on the knees, that the labor- 
ers were hard workers. But overalls are 
so essential to preservation of clothes that 
all those wear them who begin at the bot- 
tom of the ladder, as it is called, when a 
rich man's son goes to work in shop, fac- 
tory or foundry, to learn the whole busi- 
ness. Capital has thus set its approval upon 
overalls, while labor ranks a man working 
without them as a silly snob. 

It is in this way that overalls are playing 
a more important part in the mutual re- 
lations of labor and capital than is sug- 
gested in Carlyle's "Sartor Resartus." 
But when overalls invade the home they 
are as out of place on the laborer as they 
would be on the capitalist's son. No 
matter how tired a man may be, he has 
no moral right when in overalls to eat with 
anyone at home. Restaurants are — 
different. A wise woman, who wants to 
keep her husband a lover, will not let 
him come to table with her even in his 
shirtsleeves. Just as she pulls down her 
sleeves when she is serving him, so should 
he lay off his working habiliments at meal 
times. The most courteous, yet the 
most democratic man I ever knew, would 
not even sit in the room with his mother 
on a hot summer day in his shirt sleeves, 
because he respected her motherhood. 
He would have done the same if he had 
had a wife. 



HER FIRST THANKSGIVING DINNER 



It is these minor outreachings toward 
social refinement, burdensome as they are 
when workers are weary, that become re- 
aUties through the domestic science teach- 
ing in pubhc schools. It is not merely 
cookery but table manners that children 
learn; not alone how to lay one's knife and 
fork on the empty plate but how to eat ; 
and as for the use of a napkin, 
know your guest by the way she uses it. 
A man in overalls can.be a gentleman in all 



the essentials of manhood, a gentleman 
without good table manners has some- 
thing awry in his character. 

Overalls have their rightful place in the 
kingdom of earth. Worn with conscious 
satisfaction in work, laid aside with an 
hour's home leisure and with unnamed 
pleasure in being courteous to one's 
women folks, they are one of the daily 
helps to cleanliness in labor and to chivalry 
in feeling. 



Her First Thanksgiving Dinner 

By HELEN MARSHALL 

How a college training helped a bride of six weeks' experience in housekeeping and cooking to prepare, 
cook and serve a successful Thanksgiving dinner for four people. 



JUST a year ago, my husband and I 
found ourselves established for the 
winter in a Southern city — a quaint, 
fascinating, dilapidated old town, rich 
in evidences of a princely past, and pre- 
serving, as no other city of the South 
has done, its old-time loves and habits, 
intolerant of modern energy and the 
spirit of commercial progress. 

Here, among strangers, I came upon a 
college chum, the bride of a year, and, 
like myself, an alien, but already enam- 
oured of the place and its charming peo- 
ple. Her husband was a college profes- 
sor, and they were confronted, therefore, 
with what at times, I have no doubt, 
proved a serious economic problem — the 
attempt to live according to the require- 
ments of their position in the community, 
and within the limits of a meager salary. 

Tom and Louise had begun their house- 
keeping in the rooms on the second floor 
of an 1 8th century mansion. This was a 
wonderful house, having a secret staircase 
hidden away in its romantic depths, and 
great fireplaces, recessed windows and 
arched doorways, that fairly took one's 
breath away with the sheer beauty of their 
fluted columns and elaborate cornices. The 



house was wofully lacking, however, in the 
ordinary conveniences that make house- 
keeping in an ordinary apartment almost as 
good as play to the brides of today. The 
way in which those two clever people 
evolved a model kitchen from a section of 
the old ballroom reads like a fairy tale; but 
that must be another story. 

One Sunday evening, ladling out cream 
toast from her chafing-dish to the three 
hungry ones sitting expectant about the fire, 
Louise suddenly exploded a bomb-shell. 

" Next week, Thursday, is Thanksgiv- 
ing day, and Tom and I command you and 
Richard to dine with us at three o'clock! " 

''Now Louise!" my husband broke 
out, ''don't think, because we 're North- 
erners and committed to a boarding house, 
that you have to take pity on us and make 
a martyr of yourself for the sake of a 
Thanksgiving dinner ! ' ' 

"And \sith no maid ! " I added; "no, 
Louise, you must not think of such a 
thing!" 

"Oh! I see," remarked Louise with 
withering scorn, "you two don't believe 
I can cook a Thanksgiving dinner ! 
Tom!" turning to her husband, "just 
make them want to come ! ' * 



lyo 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



' ' Oh ! if you feel that way about it, 
Louise — of course we want to come," I 
hastened to say, ''but we thought, — that 
is, — I thought — " 

*' Yes ! I know quite well what you 
thought!" declared Louise. **You 

thought that I had never roasted a turkey 
in my life and you are right. I 've never 
even seen one roasted. But there always 
has to be a first one, doesn't there, and I 
wish you to come and help eat it. If you 
think it won' t be eatable, ' ' — 

" Come now, Louise ! " Tom interposed 
quietly, in the face of her rising indig- 
nation, ''you know they do not mean 
it in that way. They will come all 
right!" 

And so it was arranged that Richard 
and I should be guests at Louise's first 
Thanksgiving dinner, though Richard 
scolded me all the way home for giving in, 
and sent some beautiful white roses to 
Louise on Thanksgiving morning, as if he 
thought she needed consolation in her 
self-appointed task. Most New England 
girls grow up, thanks to wise mothers, 
with some knowledge of kitchen arts and 
household management, but such experi- 
ence had never fallen to Louise. First a 
busy college girl and then a busier teacher, 
neither inchnation nor opportunity had 
offered itself for learning in domestic 
affairs. Yet that Thanksgiving dinner, 
her first company dinner after only six 
weeks' experience as a housekeeper, was a 
grand success, and my purpose is to tell 
you how she managed it. 

A week beforehand she had planned 
her menu and written it out in this 
fashion. 

Grapefruit with claret 

Cream-of -celery soup with Duchess croutons 

Radishes, Pin-money pickles 

Salted almonds, Olives 

Roast turkey (peanut stuffing, giblet sauce) 

Cranberry sauce 

Glazed sweet potato, Mashed white potato 

Squash 

Lemon sherbet 

Orange, nut-and-lettuce salad, French dressing 

Hot apple pie. Blazing mince pie 

Fruit, Nuts, Raisins 

Coffee, Cheese, Crackers 



With this list in hand, Louise investi- 
gated her china closet and silver drawers, 
noting against each item the kind and 
number of pieces required for the serving 
of each dish. To her joy she found that 
wedding gifts and recent small purchases 
at a Japanese store assured a sufficient and 
attractive supply, with recourse to such 
small subterfuges as the hasty cleansing 
between courses of two salad plates, thus 
enabhng a half dozen plates to serve for 
both salad and pie. 

The next step was the preparation of a 
marketing list. Seated again at her desk, 
with menu in hand, Louise prepared a 
slip of blank paper with the following 
headings : 

Meat, Vegetables, Groceries, Fruit, Dairy, 
Sundries 

Then, with trusty cookbook at hand — 
more valuable to her than her left hand at 
least, she often declared it — the ambi- 
tious little housewife made out the list of 
necessaries, carefully going over each item 
of the menu in turn. This task completed, 
with growing interest and excitement in 
the orderly solving of her self-appointed 
problem, she took the list and visited her 
store closet, drawing a line through the 
name of each article of which she already 
possessed a plentiful supply. 

On her return from market, the day 
before Thanksgiving, Louise dutifully 
set down, at my request, the price paid for 
each of her purchases. I present the 
complete marketing list for the benefit of 
would-be followers of her venture. Such 
data are well worth preserving in the an- 
nals of any household, since they form the 
basis of an actual, successful experiment in 
economical entertaining. Barring the 
staples, flour, sugar, salt and pepper, this 
list includes every bit of material needed, 
even down to the minute gratings of nut- 
meg for the apple-pie. Such careful 
detail will cause the housekeeper of years 
of experience to smile, no doubt, but 
Louise was wise in her confessed igno- 
rance. She would leave nothing to luck, 
but assured herself that at the time of 
actual preparation of the dishes not a sin- 



HER FIRST THANKSGIVING DINNER 



171 



gle necessary ingredient should be lack- 
ing. 

Meat 
8}4 lbs. turkey @ 22c. . , . . $1.87 

Groceries 
}4 can mincemeat @, 20c 10 

$ .10 
Vegetables 

3 bunches celery loc 25 

2 '* radishes 05 

I " garnish 05 

1 qt. cranberries 15 

2 " sweet potatoes 05 

3 Florida squash @ 5c 15 

1 head lettuce 05 

Fruit 

2 grapefruit @ 5c 10 

4 lemons @ 25c. per doz 08 

I doz. oranges 30 

J4 " apples @ 20c. per doz 10 

I lb. malaga grapes 25 

I " cluster raisins 20 

^1.03 
Dairy 

3 pts. milk @ 8 c. per qt ,12 

I lb. butter 28 

I Neufchatel cheese 05 

^pt. cream @ 25c. per qt 13 

$ .58 
Sundries 

X lb. almonds @ 32c per lb 08 

I can Canton ginger 10 

I bottle -olives 10 

X lb. bonbons @ 80c. per lb 20 

I loaf bread 05 

1 qt. peanuts 05 

2 lbs. nuts @ 15c. per lb 30 

$ .88 
Totals 

Meat ^1.87 

Vegetables 75 

Groceries 10 

Fruit 1.03 

Dairy 58 

Sundries . . 88 

Total sum expended ^5.21 

The next evening found Louise again 
at her desk, with her lists spread out be- 
fore her. Tom watched her absorbed 
face for a few moments and at length haz- 
arded : 



" Being a mere man, I 've always sup- 
posed a dinner was prepared in the kitch- 
en. Hanged if I ever before knew a 
woman who thought she could do most of 
it in the Hbrary!" 

'' Just wait and see! " Louise responded 
sweetly, her eyes still intent and thought- 
ful, ''it's going to be a good dinner, 
Tom! " 

''I '11 bet on you !" cried Tom, sud- 
denly throwing to the winds his last linger- 
ing doubt of the resources of the college- 
trained woman when brought face to face 
with domestic problems. * ' What is it this 
evening, Louise?" 

" Last night it was the menu-building, 
housekeeper's list and marketing guide," 
Louise laughed, ''tonight it is instructions 
for the green waitress and perhaps a 
schedule for the verdant cook. Think 
what a retinue you support all in one lit- 
tle me ! ' ' she concluded, with an excited 
and somewhat anxious little chuckle, 
' ' and I ' m only six weeks old in all four I ' ' 
The following list is the result of her 
evening at the desk, menu in one hand, 
housekeeper's list of serving dishes spread 
out before her eyes. We will call it as 
did she : 

Waitress' Guide 

Preparation of the dining-room. 

Festoon "southern moss" over chan- 
delier and decorate with branches of 
Cassena (Christmas berry.) 

Preparation of dining-table: 

1 Lay cloth 

2 Arrange centerpiece : 

a, mat of wild orange leaves and Cassena 
berries from garden 

b, place in center compote filled with nuts 
and raisins 

c, pile oranges, apples and grapes about base. 

3 Arrange carving-cloth 

4 " 4 napkins 

5 *' silver 

a, Place 4 dinner knives, 4 dinner forks, 8 
dessert forks, 4 dessert knives, 4 soup 
spoons, 8 tea spoons, 4 orange spoons 

b, Service for hostess: Soup ladle, spoon for 
croutons, 3 large spoons for serving 
Service for host : Carving knife, carving 
fork, carving rests, i large spoon for stuffing, 



172 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



gravy ladle, pickle fork, 2 bonbon spoons 

6 Arrange dishes : 4 water glasses, 4 fruit 
plates, salts and peppers, service dishes for 
celery, radishes, nuts, pickles, ginger, olives, 
bon bons, 4 sauce dishes (cranberry sauce) 

Preparation of side table: (Leave space for 
waitress' tray and large tray) , folded napkin 
on plate (for removing crumbs), water pitcher 

Soup course : '4 soup plates, 4 dinner plates 
(place plates) 

Salad course : 4 salad plates, tray bearing ma- 
terials for French dressing, oil and vinegar 
cruets, salt, pepper, bowl and spoon, salad 
bowl (with lettuce) salad fork and spoon, 
plate of sliced oranges and server, plate of 
whole pecan nuts and server 

Dessert course : 4 dessert plates, pie server, 
pitcher of cream 

Fruit course : 4 fruit plates with doilies and 
fingerbowls, 4 fruit knives , 4 orange spoons 

Coffee tray : 4 after-dinner coffee cups with 
spoons, pitcher of cream (this maybe omitted) 
bowl of cut sugar and tongs, plate of cheese, 
plate of crackers 

Dishes to be warmed in kitchen for serving : 
Soup tureen, platter for turkey, 2 vegetable 
dishes, gravy dish, 2 pie plates, coffee pot 

A glance at the waitress' guide will show 
that Louise planned to make the service as 
easy as possible, by placing upon the table 
before the beginning of the first course all 
the dishes and silver it would carry without 
spoiling its attractive appearance, and by 
having ready upon the side table all the 
dishes and silver needed for serving each 
course in turn. 

The above list was supplemented by an- 
other giving actual details of service, lest 
deft but unaccustomed fingers, ''waitress' 
fingers, ' ' should make mistakes, while the 
mind and attention of the hostess was cen- 
tered in the conversation and merriment 
about the table. 

"If I must act the part of cook and 
waitress and hostess all at the same time," 
protested Louise, in the face of Tom's jokes 
concerning "the latest library dinner," 
' ' I must have the parts of cook and waitress 
spread before my eyes where a second's 
glance will give me my cue. ' ' So this second 
Hst was tacked in a convenient place in the 
kitchen where Louise, "hostess," could 
refresh the memory of Louise, ' ' waitress, ' ' 
during her brief retreats to the kitchen 
between courses. 



Here are the complete "instructions for 
the waitress " just as Louise gave them to 
me, and by altering them to suit other 
dishes any inexperienced housewife may 
follow them, in the safe assurance that her 
dinner will be served as quickly and deftly 
as if she possessed a trained maid servant. 
She will find also that the embarrassing and 
distasteful necessity of leaving the table 
to attend to the wants of her guests is re- 
duced to a minimum, and, if the host will 
take especial care to direct the conversa- 
tion during these absences, the chief diffi- 
culty in entertaining without a waitress will 
be removed. 

Instructions for Waitress 

Course I. 

Remove fruit plates to large tray on side 
table, sHpping dinner plates in their places. 

Place soup plates before hostess. 

Remove tray to kitchen. 

Bring soup tureen and croutons from 
kitchen to side table. 

Remove soup and croutons to table. 
Course 2. 

Remove soup plates, tureen and crou- 
tons to tray. 

Carry tray to kitchen. 

Bring in tray of vegetables to side table. 

Remove vegetables to table, placing 
before hostess. 

Garnish and* bring in turkey, placing 
before host. 

Bring in gravy. 

Fill glasses. 
Course 3. 

Remove turkey to kitchen. 

Remove vegetable dishes to tray and 
carry to kitchen. 

Remove dinner plates to tray and carry 
to kitchen. 

Return with tray. 

Remove salts, peppers, carving cloth and 
rests on waitress' tray and carry to kitchen. 

Remove crumbs with folded napkin and 
plate. 

Place salad bowl before hostess. 

Place on either side of hostess, tray bear- 
ing materials for French dressing and plates 
of oranges and nuts. 



HER FIRST THANKSGIVING DINNER 



173 



Bring on tray from kitchen 4 sherbet 
glasses to side table. 

Place each glass on plate with doily and 
remove to table. 
Course 4. 

Go to kitchen. Put water to boil for 
coffee and turn on gas for heating pies in 
oven. 

Remove salad bowl and other serving 
dishes to side table. 

Remove salad plates and sherbet glasses 
to tray and carry to kitchen. 

Turn boihng water over coffee; let it 
come to a boil and turn in 1-4 cup cold 
water; place on asbestos plate to keep 
warm. 

Wash two salad plates and return to side 
table. 

Place four plates and pie-server before 
hostess. 

Bring apple pie from kitchen and place 
before hostess. 

Turn brandy over mince pie, light and 
bring to table on waitress' tray. 
Course 5. 

Remove dessert plates, slipping fruit 
plates in their places. 

Remove crackers and cheese to table. 

Bring in coffee and remove with coffee 
tray to table. 

Louise's last task at her desk, in con- 
sultation with her cook book, was to write 
out a schedule for the cook. On one sheet, 
she noted everything that might be ac- 
compHshed from two to three days before 
the dinner. On another, she noted the 
tasks that could not be done until the day 
before and, on a third sheet, she added 
those duties that, by their very nature, had 
to be performed upon the morning of 
Thanksgiving day. 

This is the way these lists appeared: 
Schedule i. 

Salt almonds; make cranberry sauce; 
crack nuts; make pies. 
Schedule 2. 

Prepare grape fruit; wash and cut celery; 
wash radishes; clean, stuff and truss turkey; 
cook giblets; parboil sweet potatoes and 
prepare for glazing; boil celery tips for soup; 
cut and butter stale bread for croutons; 



prepare lemon syrup for freezing; wash 

lettuce. 

Schedule 3. 

Before noon. 

Decorate and arrange table; peel and 
soak Irish potatoes; cut squash for steam- 
ing; slice oranges; grind, measure and cover 
coffee; freeze sherbet. 

12 M. Place turkey in oven. 

12.15. Reduce heat, baste and repeat 
every fifteen minutes; dress. 

1.45. Glaze sweet potato. 

2.05. Boil water and put potatoes and 
squash to cook; place cream, grape fruit, 
salad materials, bon-bons, etc. , on table. 

2.40. Drain and mash potatoes; mash 
and season squash. 

2.45. Take up turkey; make gravy; 
toast croutons; scald milk for soup; com- 
bine with celery and bind. 

3.00. Fill glasses; announce dinner. 

As the schedule indicates, the day before 
the dinner was a very busy one, but Louise 
went about her tasks, knowing just what 
must be accomplished, unhurried and un- 
worried. 

On Thanksgiving morning, at the break- 
fast hour, Tom remarked with admiration, 
''You don't look worried nor excited a 
bit, Louise ! Havn't you heaps of things 
to do this morning? " 

"Oh ! Yes !" Louise answered gaily, 
''but the point of it is, Tom, I havn't got 
to think and plan and worry for fear I have 
forgotten something or won' t have time to 
do it all. Every single thing I have to do 
with the time at which it must be done is 
all on paper and I can work just like a 
machine, following directions. ' ' 

When breakfast was over and the rooms 
put in order, Tom brought up the leaves 
and berries from the garden and together 
they draped the graceful gray moss plumes 
over the chandelier and down to the table 
and arranged the centerpiece as Louise had 
planned. It made a glorious mass of vivid 
color, set off by the shining mat of dark 
green orange leaves. Then, with list in 
hand, Louise visited china closet and silver 
drawers, Tom following with the tray, and 
( Continued ofi page xvi) 



174 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
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THANKSGIVING 

OUR interest has been absorbed of 
late in the sayings and doings of 
the International Peace Congress, 
the Congress of Religious Liberals and in 
the local Food Exhibition. Now there 
are immediately before us the Fall elec- 
tions and our annual Thanksgiving Fes- 
tival. Out of all that is said and done 
by our leaders of thought, the question of 
chief import ever remains the same. Is 
the world in general progressing? Are we 
making gains in ways of happiness ? How 
much have we to be thankful for ? 

Certainly it can not be denied that 
there is less of superstition, more of truth 
known and more of consequent peace and 



comfort in the world today than ever 
before. Convinced of this we may be 
thankful, indeed, and look forward with 
hope of still better things. 

In this and other lands the changes 
that have taken place, the progress that 
has been made, in manifold ways, within 
the last half century, are marvelous, indeed. 
Mark the contrast between an old-time 
sailing ship and the latest steam liner, the 
Lusitania, and we have a single illustra- 
tion of the marvels that have been 
wrought. The world itself, in its con- 
stant evolutionary progress, is the ever- 
lasting miracle. 

As a phase in recent thought and dis- 
cussion man's natural appetite, his intel- 
lectual, social and emotional nature are 
being critically studied and prescribed for. 
In certain Unes of investigation strikingly 
strange and almost incredible things are 
reported. The foundations of old ways, 
customs and beliefs seem to be shaken. 

But, as President Ehot says, ''we be- 
Heve that in religion, just as in science, 
the provinces of ascertained truth and of 
behef, hope, expectation, faith, are dif- 
ferent. This distinction we are in danger 
of losing sight of. We know that the 
progress of exact science is dependent on 
the play of the human imagination. But 
we know, too, when the imagining genius 
throws his searchlight out into the envel- 
oping fog, that at every moment he must 
submit his glimpse of what he thinks he 
sees to the test of subsequent observation, 
to the test of the cool reason. Just so. 
The hopes, expectations, visions of re- 
ligion should be all the time submitted to 
the tests of the sincere, candid, truth- 
loving reason." 



NOVEMBER 



Don't talk to me of solemn days 

In Autumn's time of splendor, 
Because the sun shows fewer rays, 

And these grow slant and slender. 
Why, it 's the cUmax of the year, 

The highest time of hving ! 
Till, naturally its bursting cheer 

Just melts into Thanksgiving. 

— Paul Law7'ence Dunbar. 



EDITORIALS 



175 



WE give bebw a summary of the 
work of the latest authority on 
nutrition. Dr. Chittenden, it is 
said, has conducted the most important 
series of experiments ever made in this 
country and perhaps in the world, on the 
subject of the nutrition of man. The re- 
sult of his work is to throw an entirely new 
light upon that constituent in human diet 
known as ' ' proteid. ' ' We desire that our 
readers learn how to acquaint themselves 
with the latest researches in the matter of 
food and diet. 

COLLAPSE OF A FUNDAMENTAL 
FALLACY IN DIET 

Fi^om Current Literature "^ 

LIEBIG, who ranks among chemists 
as Hannibal ranks among generals 
and as Dante ranks among poets, 
taught that muscular energy is derived 
from the assimilation of proteid foods. 
The organic foodstuffs, it must be remem- 
bered, are of three distinct types. Dr. 
Russell H. Chittenden, the famous physi- 
ological chemist of Yale, classifies all 
digestible forms of nutrition into proteids 
or albuminous foodstuffs, carbohydrates 
and fats. ''All annimal and vegetable 
foods, whatever their nature and whatever 
their origin, are composed simply of rep- 
resentatives of one or more of these three 
classes of food principles." Now proteid 
substances, regarded with such an appre- 
ciative eye by Liebig, have the special 
characteristic of containing about sixteen 
per cent, of nitrogen. '' In addition, 
they contain on an average 52 per cent, 
of carbon, 7 percent, of hydrogen, 23 per 
cent, of oxygen, and a slight percentage 
of sulphur. " Proteid or albuminous sub- 
stances constitute the chemical basis of all 
living cells, whether animal or vegetable. 
"This means, expressed in different lan- 
guage, that the organic substance of aU 
organs and tissues, whether of animals or 
plants, is made up principally of proteid 
matter." Thus proteid substances occupy 
a special importance in human diet, of an- 
imal diet generally, in fact. 



To say, as the scientific press is now 
practically saying, that the effect of Dr. 
Chittenden's new work on the nutrition of 
man is to prove the proposition that en- 
ergy is more adequately derived from veg- 
etable foods than from proteids, is to 
herald the collapse of a fundamental falla- 
cy in diet. "The great weight of Lie- 
big's authority," says London Science, 
influenced physiologists, even when Fick 
and Wislicenus in 1865 made an ascent 
of the Faulhorn on a diet which was free 
from nitrogen, and were able to show that 
vigorous and even severe muscular work 
does not necessarily increase the decom- 
position of proteid material. ' ' The source 
of muscular energy has been in dispute 
from that day until the appearance of Dr. 
Chittenden's work, a study which, as the 
authorities agree, settles the question 
against Liebig. "Dr. Chittendon's ex- 
periments compel us," writes- a well- 
known authority on diet in the London 
Athenceum^ a paper whose scientific judg- 
ment carries great weight, ' ' to rej ect Lie- 
big' s teaching and to accept the more 
difficult proposition that nitrogenous tissue 
change in the body is fairly constant un- 
der all conditions, and that nitrogen equi- 
Hbrium can easily be maintained on an 
amount of proteid food, which is not 
more than one-third of the minimum 
usually considered necessary." To the 
same effect writes the Paris Reviie Scien- 
ti/ique, not to mention the London Lancet 
and medical organs of equal celebrity. 

The upshot of Dr. Chittenden's work 
is that, in any diet worthy of the name, 
vegetable foods, containing relatively little 
nitrogen, should prevail. " Animal foods, 
with their higher nitrogen values, must be 
greatly subordinate, if the nitrogen or pro- 
teid assimilation is to be maintained at a 
level commensurate with true physiologi- 
cal requirements." The practice of eat- 
ing more than enough is thus represented 
as the " predominant dietetic sin." But 
with the contemporary standards of diet, 
as fixed by the gastronomical habits of 
every-day existence, there is reason to fear 
that the predominant dietetic sin of this 



176 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



age will be indulged in throughout a some- 
what indefinite future. 

Underfeeding has its perils, but it is 
*' comparatively rare. " Not that Doctor 
Chittenden advocates any particular diet. 
He says the adoption of dietary habits that 
aim to accord with the physiological re- 
quirerrents of the body need not entail " sl 
crucifying of the flesh" or a disregard 
of personal likes and dislikes. A reason- 
able intelligence combined with a disposi- 
tion to exercise the same degree of judg- 
ment and care in the nutrition of the body 
as is expended on other matters of no 
greater importance pertaining to the indi- 
vidual, to the household or to business 
interests, are all that is needed to bring 
about harmony between every-day dietary 
babits and the nutritive requirements of 
the body. There is no occasion, unless 
one finds pleasure and satisfaction in so 
•doing, to resort to a limited dietary of 
nuts and fruits, to become an ardent dis- 
ciple of vegetarianism, to adopt a cereal 
diet, to abjure meats entirely or to follow 
in an intensive fashion any particular die- 
tary hobby. 

Doctor Chittenden's experiments were 
so scientifically carried out, in the opinion 
of those scientific organs which comment 
upon them, that there can be no cavil at 
the soundness of the conclusion to which 
they lead. He took thirteen men of the 
hospital corps of the United States Army 
and submitted them to a course of diet for 
six months. The men were under military 
discipline throughout the experiment. 
The food administered to each was of 
known composition. The weight of pro- 
teid injected was known. This amount 
was reduced gradually. The amount of 
food was kept at such a volume as to in- 
sure each man enough to eat. The bodily 
weights of the individuals remained unal- 
tered, practically. But the muscular tone 
and the muscular strength showed a sur- 
prising increase. 

Eight university athletes were subjects 
of the second series of experiments. Dur- 
ing their five months dieting the daily in- 
take of proteid food by each individual 



was reduced more than half. All showed 
gain in muscular power. All suffered less 
from fatigue after vigorous muscular effort 
than formerly. Physical and mental en- 
durance increased. 

The effect of a low proteid diet on dogs 
was ascertained through the final experi- 
ment.' ' ' It has been thought for years that 
dogs and other flesh eaters could not 
long survive a marked diminution of the 
proteids in their food — Doctor Chitten- 
den supplies arguments for the theory 
that the want of success in previous cases 
depended less on the reduction of the 
proteid than on the conditions of past ex- 
periments. He gave his dogs more free- 
dom. '^A dog," he says, **does not 
thrive when restricted to a purely veg- 
etable diet, and a little animal food seems 
necessary to keep up its health and 
strength, and this suffices even though 
the daily nitrogen intake and fuel value of 
the diet are restricted to a level below 
that of the vegetable dietary." Alto- 
gether, then, as Dr. Chittenden sums the 
matter up, a diet which conforms to the true 
nutritive requirements of the body must 
necessarily lead toward vegetable foods. 



WOMEN'S COLLEGES 

OUR women's colleges are now 
crowded and the higher education 
of women is no longer a prophecy. 
The ideal of our college is intellectual 
perfection. Our women come here not 
that they may learn something whereby 
they can make a living, but that they may 
learn life. Some come with lower aims. 
Some come to have a good time. I hope 
they will have it. I think they generally 
do. Some come that they may fit them- 
selves for teachers. In this we hope to 
prove ourselves efficient. But neither of 
these, nor, in fact, any one particular 
practical aim is our ideal. A woman of 
intelligence, common sense and refine- 
ment; a woman equipped with a sound 
mind in a sound body is our ideal. We 
feel that such a woman is capable of filling 
any position to which she may be called. 
— President Seelye. 







TB^tj^j&l 


f 




Hpk"^l 


d 





l)oiled Caulitiower with Sauct 



Seasonable Recipes 



Bx JAXET J/. 7//ZZ 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Croutons, Genoese Fashion 

Stamp out as many rounds of stale 
bread as there are individuals to be served; 
spread lightly with butter and l)rown ii^_ 
the oven. When cold spread with an- 
chovy }jaste. Have ready a small heart 
leaf of lettuce for eacli round of bread; 
set these above tlie bread and on each 
dispose a slightly rounding teaspoonful 
of ^gg salad. For the salad chop fine 
hard-cooked eggs; add half the bulk of 
chopped olives and whole capers, and 
mix with enough mayonnaise dressing to 
hold the mass together. Garnish with a 
figure cut from pickled beet or with fine- 
chopped pickled beet. Serve as an ap})e- 
tizer at c'nner or luncheon. Anchovies 
put up in oil may be used instead of the 
anchovy paste. The anchovies in oil will 
keep several months after the bottle is 
opened. The paste will not keep as well. 



In using the anchovies, wdpe them free of 
oil, scrape the flesh from the skin and 
pound it smooth with a pestle ; add half 
the measure of butter and pound until the 
two are smoothly blended, then press 
through a fine sieve. A bit of red pepper 
pod, chopped exceedingly^ fine, and a few 
drops of onion juice are an agreeable ad- 
dition to the mayonnaise dressing used for 
these croutons. 

Bisque of Oysters (To serve 
eight or ten) 
Pour a cup and a half of cold waiter 
over three pints of oysters; rinse the oys- 
ters from the water, removing pieces of 
shell if there be any, and then strain this 
water over them. Heat quickly to the 
boiling point, then strain off the liquid, 
and set it aside. Pound the oysters with 
a pestle and rub the i)aste through a 
puree sieve, adding meanwhile a little of 



178 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the oyster liquid, to tacilitate the process. 
j\Ielt half a cup of butter ; in it cook a 
piece of red pepper pod, freed of seeds, 
half an onion, cut in slices, two sage 
leaves and a sprig, each, of summer savory 
and parsley, without letting them brown. 
When the onion is softened and yellowed, 
add tivo-thirds ' a cup of sifted flour, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and stir and cook 
until smooth and frothy, then add gradu- 
ally a quart of veal or chicken broth and 
a pint of milk. When boiling and smooth 
strain over the oyster puree, which has 
been heated to the boiling point. Finish 
with a cup or more of hot cream, ad- 
ding, also, salt and pepper as needed. 

Oyster Soup for Two 

Pour half a cup of cold water over half 
a pint of oysters ; take each oyster in the 
fingers, remove any shell that may ad- 
here to it, and rinse in the water. Strain 
the water through a doubled cheese cloth, 
heat it to the boihng point, then add the 
oysters and again heat cpiickly to the 
boiling point. In the meantime, melt two 
level tablespoonfuls of butter ; cook in it 
a slice of onion, a bit of parsley and a few 
bits of chopped celery. , When these are 
yellowed, add a level tablespoonful and a 
half of flour and cook until frothy ; then 
add one cup and a half of milk or l)roth 
and stir until the mixture is smooth and 
boils ; then strain into the oysters. Add 
salt and pepper as needed, and a little hot 
cream or milk, if the soup is thicker than 
it is desired. 

Oysters and Celery an Gratin 

Cut tender white stalks of celery into 
quarter-inch slices. Cook a cup of these 
in boiling water until tender, and 
drain. Clean a pint of oysters; strain the 
liquor, add the oysters, heat quickly to 
the boiling point and skim out the oys- 
ters. Melt three level tablespoonfuls of 
butter ; in it cook three level tablespoon- 
fuls of flour with one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and pepper; stir until 
frothy, then add one half a cup, each, of 
oyster liquor, celery water and cream; stir 



until boiling, then add the celery and 
oysters. Put the mixture into buttered 
shells or ramequins. Mix two-thirds a 
cup of cracker crumbs with one third a 
cup of melted butter. Spread this over 
the mixture in the shells. Set the shells 
into a hot oven to brown the crumbs; 
then serve at once. 

Fried Pickerel 

Remove the head and tail from the 
fish; with a sharp, pointed knife cut 
down the entire length of the front and 
empty the contents ; cut off the fins, and 
with the back of the knife and the fingers 
work out the backbone and those at- 
tached to it : cut the flesh down through 
the center of the back, then with the back 




Pickerel Fresh from the Water 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



179 



of the knife push the flesh from the skin, 
thus making two long fillets. Eeave 
these whole, or cut them in two or three 
pieces, each, according to the size of the 
fish. Lay the.n in an agate or earth ern 
dish, pour over them one or two tal^le- 
spoonfuls of oil and a tablespoonful of 
vinegar ; sprinkle them Avith slices of onion 
and parsley branches, cover and set aside 
in a cool place for an hour or two, or until 
the next morning. Drain the slices, roll 
them in flour, season with salt and pep- 
per, and set into a frying pan containing 
two or three tablespoonfuls of hot fat. 
Fat tried out of salt pork is particularly 
good for this purpose. Cook over a brisk 
fire until browned on one side, then turn 
and brown the other side. The fillets 
may also be egged-and-crumbed, and 
fried about five minutes in deep fat. They 
may also be baked in the oven. Serve 
with sliced toiiatoes, or cucumbers, or 
with tomato sauce. 

T(3mato Sauce for Fried Pickerel 

Cook a cup and a half of stewed or 
fresh tomato, half a green pepper pod, 
and half an onion, each shced fine, also 
a bit of lean ham if at hand, ten or fif- 
teen minutes, then strain and use the 
puree with two level table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and 
flour in making a sauce. 
Season with salt and pepper 
as needed. 

Roast Chicken 

We will suppose the chick- 
en, weighing about ^ three 
pounds and a ha'f, has been 
picked and drawn. If long 
hairs remain upon it, take the 
legs in one hand, and the 
neck in the other, and thus 
turn the body in che flame 
from a tablespoonful of alcohol ignited on 
a tin plate or cover, to burn off the hairs. 
Cut off the feet at the knee joint. Turn 
back the skin on the neck, and cut off 
the neck itself on a line with the top of 
the wings. Wash the chicken inside 



and out and fill with Ijread stuffing. 
Sew up the opening through which the 
stuffing was |)ut into the body of the 
chicken. Turn the third joints of the 
wings back over the neck skin, turned- 
down upon the back. Run a threaded 
trussing needle through the flesh of the' 
wing into the body, and let it come out 
through the skin of the neck, turned 
down on the back, and on a line with the 
place where it went in; put the needle- 
back through the body and second wing-- 
an inch from where it came out. to leave a 
stitch in the back; now leave a stitch an 
inch kuig on the wing and run the needle 
through the body, to come out an inch 
from the ])lace where it entered the first 
wing. Tie the thread in a bow knot. 
Press the legs close to the l)ody, draw- 
ing them up as high as |)Ossible. Run 
the threaded needle through the legs and 
body and return to the first side, an inch 
from the ])lace where the needle comes 
out. Tie in a bow knot. s})read a slice of 
salt pork over the l)reast of the chicken, 
set on a rack in a pan of suitable size and 
set to cook in a hot oven; after fifteen 
minutes, reduce the heat and let cook 
about two hours. P)aste every ten minutes 
with the dripping in the pan, or with hot 




Roast Chicken, Garnish of Cranberry Branch* 



fat taken from the top of the sou[) kettle. 
Dredge Avith flour after each basting. An 
eight i)Ound turkey retpiires at least three 
hours of cooking: often another hour is 
desirable. A fowl is cooked when the 
joints may be easily separated. 



i8o 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Bread Stuffing 

Remove the crust from l)read that has 
been baked at least twenty-four hours. 
Grate the bread or press it through a col- 
ander. To two cups of crumbs, add two 
fresh sage leaves, a sprig of summer sav- 
ory, and a thin pepper-pod two inches long, 
all chopped fine. also a teaspoonful 
of onion juice, and half a teaspoonful of 
salt, with half a cup of melted butter. Mix 
all together very thoroughly and use to 
fill the chicken. 

Planked Cliicken 

Cut the chicken down the backbone 
and complete the dressing as for a broiled 
chicken. Broil over coals, or under the 
gas flame, five to eight minutes to sear 
the outside, then baste liberally with but- 
ter and let cook in the oven, or farther 



the beaten yolks of two eggs, one-fourtk 
a cuj) of cream or the same measure of 
milk and two tablespoonfuls of melted 
l)iitte', half a teaspoonful of salt and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of black pepper. Sift 
together one cup of sifted pastry flour, and 
a level teaspoonful of baking powder; add 
this and the whites of two eggs, beaten 
stiff, to the corn mixture and beat thor- 
oughly. Add more flour, if needed, to 
make a batter consistent enough to hold 
together while frying. Fry in deep fat, 
dropping in the mixture from the spoon ; 
or cook in a frying pan as griddle 
cakes. 

Curried Rice 

Put a cup of rice and a quart or more 
of cold water over a quick fire and let heat 
quickly to the boihng point. In three 
minutes drain and rinse with cold water. 




'lanked Chicken 



away from the gas flame, from a half to a 
full hour as is required. Baste every five 
minutes with butter melted in a little hot 
water. Set in place on a hot plank, put 
curried rice around the edge, and fill in 
the open spaces with cooked cauliflower, 
corn fritters, stuffed tomatoes and small 
boiled onions. Serve Hollandaise or 
Bechamel sauce in a bowl apart. 

Corn Fritters 
Chop fine one cup of canned corn: add 



'lo the drained rice add three cups and a 
half of water or chicken broth and a scant 
teaspoonful of salt; cover the whole closely 
in an alunciinoid dish, and let cook directly 
over the fire until the liquid is nearly ab- 
sorbed, then add one-third a cup of but- 
ter, creamed and mixed with from a tea- 
spoonful to a tablespoonful of curry pow- 
der. With two forks lift the rice, to mix 
the cur.y and butter evenly through it: 
cover again and draw to a cooler part of 
the range to finish cooking. 



SEASONALE RECIPES 



i»i 



Stuffed Tomatoes 

Select a small tomato for each person 
to be served. A planked chicken serves 
two or four. Cut a slice from the steai 
end of the tomatoes and remove the 
pulp. Chop fine a slice of onion and a 
piece of green or red pepper pod; cook 
these in melted butter until softened and 
yellowed (one or two chopped mush- 
rooms cooked with them will improve the 
dish ) ; add half a cup, each, of chopped 
chicken and soft bread crumbs, mixed 
with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter 
and a tablespoonful of chopped ham, 
mix thoroughly and use to fill the toma- 
toes. Let cook in the oven about twenty 
minutes, basting two or three times with 
melted butter. 

Roast Snipe 

Clean and truss the snipe in the same 
manner as the chicken. Rub over the 
birds with butter, dredge with flour, and 
lay strips of salt pork or bacon over the 
breasts. Set to cook in a very hot oven. 
Baste every five minutes and cook about 
fifteen minutes. Serve on slices of toast. 

Cereal Griddle Cakts 

Stir one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda, 
mashed and sifted, into one cup of thick, 
^our cream; pour the cream over one cup 
of Egg-O-See, Granose or other ready-to- 
eat cereal; add the beaten yolks of two 
eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
cup of sweet milk, and one cup 
of sifted flour, sifted again with 
two level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder; mix thoroughly, then 
beat in the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry. Bake in small cakes 
on a hot, well-oiled griddle. 
When the cakes are well filled 
with bubbles, they should be 
browned underneath and ready 
to turn. 

Larded Fillet of Beef with Chest- 
nuts, Artichokes, etc. 
Lard a fillet of beef taken from under the 



rump. It will weigh about three pounds 
and cost 40 cents per pound. Dredge 
the meat with salt and flour, and set into 




Snipe 

a hot oven; turn the meat so that all sides 
will be evenly seared, and in fifteen min- 
utes reduce the heat. Have ready two 
or three Italian chestnuts, shelled, for each 
serving. Let these simmer while the 
m^eat is being seared, then put the 
drained chestnuts into the pan, with the 
meat ; baste the meat with melted butter, 
add half a cup of rich consomme, half a 
cup of tomato puree and one fourth a cup 
of :herry wine, and return to the oven 




Snipe Trussed for Roasting 

for twenty minutes. Baste every five min- 
utes with the licpiid in the pan. At the 
last basting, let the larded surface be ujj- 
permost and set in the pan a canned arti- 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



choke bottom for each serving. Dispose 
the fillet on a hot dish. Cut the arti- 
choke bottoms into quarters and dispose 
these, the chestnuts and the sauce around 
the meat. 



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Larded Fillet of l^eef, with Cliesliuits, etc. 

Boiled Cauliflower 

Trim the stalk of a cauliflower that it 
may stand level on a plate. Let the cauli- 
flower stand, head downward, in cold, 
salted water an hour or more, then ex- 
amine it carefully, to remove any insects 
that may remain in it. Set to cook in a 
kettle of rapidly-boiling salted water; let 
cook, uncovered, about twenty minutes; 
then remove to a folded napkin laid on 
a hot platter. Serve Bechamel, Hollan- 




I'lesh and I aaned Cauliflower 

daise, cream or tomato sauce, in a dish 
apart. 



Hollandaise Sauce 

Cream half a cup of butter; beat in the 
yolks of four eggs, one at a time; add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper and half a cuj) of boil- 
ing water; stir and cook the mix- 
ture over hot water until it thick- 
ens ; add the juice of half a 
lemon and serve at once. This 
sauce should be made ready be- 
forehand, then at serving time 
add the boiling water and finish 
the sauce. It will curdle if over- 
cooked. 

Hollandaise Mousseline 
Sauce 

When the above sauce is ready to 
serve, gradually beat into it half a cup of 
double cream, beaten solid, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika. 

Canned Cauliflower 

Let cauliflower, separated into flowerets, 
stand heads downward in a pan of cold, 
salted water for an hour or more; examine 
carefully that no insects be left concealed, 
then dispose in jars. Put in as many 
pieces as possible without break- 
ing and set on a folded towel, 
wrung out of hot water and laid 
on the rack, in a canner or steam 
kettle containing hot water; put 
the covers of the jars on the 
towel, cover the kettle and let 
cook forty-five minutes after 
boiling begins. Add salt to boil- 
ing water in the proportion of a 
teaspoonful to a quart and use 
to fill the jars to overflow; adjust 
the rubbers and covers, cover 
the kettle and let cook about 
twenty minutes. If convenient 
let cool in the kettle. Tighten 
Mason jars when cold. 

Artichoke Bottoms, with 
Cauliflower, etc. 
A can contains six and sometimes eight 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



183 



bottoms. One artichoke bottom is pro 
vided for each service. Saute the bot 
toms in hot butter, first on 
one side and then on the 
other, until they are very hot 
and shghtly browned. Have 
ready, eight bottoms, a small, 
cooked cauKflower, and half 
a cup, each, of hot, cooked 
string beans, flageolet, peas 
and figures cut from carrot. 
Dispose the bottoms on 
hot, individual dishes, ])ut a 
floweret of cauliflower on 
each, and divide the other 
vegetables evenly. Set a rounding tea- 
spoonful of thick Hollandaise sauce on the 
top of each service, or serve the sauce in 



tablespoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt; when the whole is smooth and 





Cream Celery, with Toast Points 



a dish apart. This is considered a very 
elegant vegetable entree. It may be 
served with the main dish of the dinner 
or as a course by itself. 

Creamed Celery with 
Toast Points 

Discard the unbleached 
stalks of a bunch of celery. 
Reserve the inner delicate 
stalks to eat raw, if desired. 
Cut the rest of the cleaned- 
and -trimmed stalks into 
inch lengths and set to cook 
in boihng water. Keep the 
celery covered with boiling 
water and let simmer until 
the stalks are tender. For 



Artichoke Bottoms, with Caulitlower, etc. 



frothy stir in three-fourths a cup, each, of 

cream and water in which the celery was 

cooked. Let cook, stirring constantly, 

until the sauce boils, then 

add the celery, and set the 

dish over hot water, while 

the croutons are prepared. 

Cut ten or more strips of 

bread to make one end 

pointed; spread the strips 

with b u 1 1 e r, on both 

sides, and let brown in a hot 

o V c n. Have ready the 

white of an egg, slightly 

beaten; dip the pointed end 

of the pieces of toast in 

this, and then in fine-chopped parsley. 

Dispose the decorated croutons around a 

})latter, and i)our the celery into the 

center. 



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Tomato Jelly, with Celery Salad 



a generous pint of celery melt three table- TomatO Jelly, with Celery Salad 
spoonfuls of butter, — m it cook three Let two cups of canned tomato, a sage 



1 84 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



leaf, sprig of summer savory, sprig of 
parsley, a slice of onion, half a stalk of 
celery, and a piece of green or red pepper 




Jjrookline Biscuit 

pod, simmer together fifteen or twenty 
minutes, then strain the whole through a 
fine sieve; add one-fourth a two-ounce 
package of gelatine, softened in one-fourth 
a cup of cold water, and salt as needed, 
and set to chill slightly in cold water. 
Separate a few flowerets of cooked cauli- 
flower into tiny flowerets and shorten the 
stems. Put these into the bottom of 
patent Charlotte Russe moulds, leaving a 
little space between the bits of cauli- 
flower. Drop in a little of the slightly 
chilled tomato mixture, to hold the cauli- 
flower in place, and when this is set, fill 
the moulds. When cold, set the moulds, 
one at a time, in tepid water for an in- 
stant, invert the mould over the hand, 
and put a spoonful or two of the water 
into the hollow. Pour out the water, 
loosen the jelly with a knife, at the edge 
^;//y, if necessary, carefully let air in be- 
tween the jelly and mould at one place 
and invert the mould over the 
serving dish. Fill the hollow 
with crisp celery mixed with 
French or mayonnaise dressing. 
Garnish with lettuce or endive 
and serve at once. 

Brookline Biscuit (C. J.) 

Have a pint of sifted flour in a 
bowl; into this rub two level 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Scald one cup of 
milk and when lukewarm add one-fourth a 



cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in one- 
fourth a cup of lukewarm water. Stir this 
into the flour, and set to rise over night. 
In the morning work in suf- 
ficient flour to make a dough 
and knead it until it is elastic 
and does not stick to the fin- 
gers. Let rise until very 
light, then take from the 
bowl to the bread board, 
without working, and roll 
out into a rectangular sheet 
longer than it is wide, and 
half an inch thick. Spread 
softened butter upon this 
and fold the dough evenly, 
to have three layers. A\'ith 
a sharp knife, dipped in flour, cut the dough 
into strips three-fourths an inch wide. 
Take hold of a strip at the ends, pull 
gently, to lengthen it, then twist the ends 
in opposite directions and form the shape 
of the figure eight, joining the two ends un- 
derneath. Place the biscuits in buttered 
pans so that they will not touch, and when 
light bake in a rather hot oven to a deli- 
cate brown. The recipe makes two dozen 
biscuit. 

Golden Parfait witli Fruit 

Beat one cup and a half of cream until 
firm to the bottom of the bowl. Boil 
three-fourths a cup of sugar, one-eighth a 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one- 
third a cup of water until, when the syrup 
has run from the spoon, a fine thread three 
inches long will hang from the tip of the 
spoon. Pour this syrup in a fine stream 
on to the beaten yolks of five eggs, beat- 




Golden Parfait 



ing constantly meanwhile. Beat, occa- 
sionally, until the mixture is cold, having it 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



185 



at the last very thick and Ught, Have 
ready half a cup of French fruit cut fine 
and steeped in Jamaica rum (enough to 
cover) for some hours or over night, and 
also a quart mould lined with paper and 
partly packed in equal measures of salt 
and crushed ice. Everything being ready 
fold the fruit and whipped cream into the 
egg mixture, and when evenly blended 
turn into the chilled mould. Let stand 
about three hours. If there be delay in 
serving, or if the weather be warm, the 
ice and salt must be renewed. 

Thanksgiving Pudding 

Remove the crust from about half a 
loaf of stale bread, cut the bread in slices 
and butter them, pile one slice above 
another and cut them in one-fourth inch 
cubes. Mix a pint of the bread cubes 
with a cup of raisins (sultanas preferred), 
a cup of sugar, the grated rind of an orange 
or lemon, about half a grated nutmeg, a 
teaspoonful of salt and four beaten eggs. 
Pour into a buttered baking dish and let 
stand about an hour. Bake until firm 
in the center. Stir the pudding after it 
has been in the oven half an hour. Serve 
hot with 

Creamy Sauce 

Boil one cup of sugar and one-third 
a cup of water (as in making boiled icing) 
six or eight minutes. Pour the syrup in a 
fine stream on to the white of an egg, 
beaten dry. Set the dish into ice water 
and beat occasionally until cold, then fold 
in a cup of cream whipped firm to the 
bottom of the bowl. Flavor with wine or 
vanilla. 

Honey Drop Cookies (F. L. F.) 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in half a cup of granulated 
sugar, one cup of honey, the beaten yolks 
of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice, with grated rind, the whites of two 
eggs, beaten dry, and three cups of sifted 
flour, sifted again with one level teaspoon- 



ful of soda. More flour may be added 
if needed to make a soft dough. Drop 
the dough by spoonfuls on to a buttered 
baking sheet, make smooth and symmet- 
rical, and bake in a moderate oven; or 
take a little on to a floured board, pat into 
a flat sheet and cut into cakes. For a 
change, sprinkle the cakes before baking 
with granulated sugar and cocoanut. 

Paradise Cakes (F. L. F.) 

Beat two eggs without separating the 
whites and yolks; gradually beat in one 
cup of sugar, then one-fourth a pound, 
each, of blanched almonds and candied 
lemon peel and citron, all chopped fine. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of strained honey, 
beating it in very gradually, then add two 
cups of sifted pastry flour, mixed with a 
level teaspoonful of baking powder. Turn 
into small tins thoroughly buttered, and 
bake about half an hour in a slow oven. 
These may also be baked in small rounds ,_ 
like macaroons, or in timbale, or drum 
shaped moulds. Baked in timbale moulds, 
cover the cakes, cold, with a sugar glaze. 

Tip of the Loin Roast 

The best of the small roasts of beef are 
two ribs cut from the extreme end of the 
hind quarter. This roast will weigh five 
or six pounds and would last a family of 
two nearly a week. The two ribs coming 
next to this «ut (on the fore quarter, 
however) will weigh seven to ten pounds. 
As the hind quarter is hung up by the 
loop made by the tendon in the hind leg, 
the juices in ihis quarter naturally flow 
toward the tip making it juicy, and, the 
roast being tender, is very desirable. Sear 
ah over in a hot oven then set the meat 
on the rack, skin side down, and when 
half cooked turn to brown the skin. Cook 
from an hour and a quarter to an hour and 
a half, following the directions given for 
Roast Beef Tenderloin. Add extra fat if 
needed for basting. Select a pan but 
Httle larger than the roast. Use no water 
in cooking. 



Menus for a Week in November 

I am not one thing and my expenditure another. My expenditure is me.— Emerson. 



Breakfast 

Baked Apples. Egg-O-See. Cream. 

Corned Beef -and- Potato Hash, 

with Green Peppers. 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell. 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuit. 

Honey in the Comb. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Grape Fruit Cocktail. 

Roast Guinea Hens, Guava Jelly. 

Hominy Croquettes. 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad. 

Golden Parfait. Coffee. 

Supper 

English Muffins, Toasted. 

Orange Marmalade, Tea. 



Breakfast 

Grape Nuts. Cream. 

Broiled Ham. White Hashed Potatoes. 

Hot Apple Sauce. 

French Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Potato-and-Sardine Salad. 

Brookline Biscuit. 

Baked Tapioca Custard Pudding, 

Vanilla Sauce. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Fricassee of Chicken. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. 

Baked Squash. Lettuce Salad. 

Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 



Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 
Broiled Sausage, Broiled Apples. 

Baked Potatoes. 
Waffles, Maple Syrup. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Guinea Hen Souffle. 

Boiled Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Yeast Rolls. 

Grapes. 

Dinner 

Consomme with Macaroni Rings. 

Beef Tenderloin, Roasted, Tomato Sauce. 

Whole Potatoes (small) Fried, 

Baked Squash. Endive Salad. 

Thanksgiving Pudding, Creamy Sauce. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Stewed Prunes. Boiled Rice. 

Pan Broiled Lamb Chops. 

Brown Hashed Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Canned Corn Chowder. 

Toasted Crackers. 

Hot Apple Pie. Cheese. Cream. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef, 

Macaroni in Tomato Sauce. 

Celery-and-Apple Salad. 

Cottage Pudding, 

Hard Sauce with Raspberry Puree. 

Black Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Creamed Salt Codfish. 
Baked Potatoes. Home Made Pickles. 
Cereal Griddle Cakes. 
Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Oyster Stew. Oyster Crackers, 

Cabbage Salad. 

Apple Dumpling. 

Cocoa. 

Dinner 

Cold Beef Tenderloin. 

Boiled Cauliflower, Bernaise Sauce. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Celery. 

Canned Pineapple Omelet. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Fried Pickerel, Tomato Sauce. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Corn Meal Muffins. Dry Toast. 

Baked Sweet Apples, Cream. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Creamed Chicken and Celery on Toast. 
Hot Cornstarch Pudding, 
Canned Raspberries. Tea. 

Dinner 

Potato Soup. 
Canned Salmon Croquettes. 
Stewed Lima Beans (dried) 

Lettuce Salad. 

Prune Whip, Cream, Sugar. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Grapes. 

Cream of Wheat. Cream. 

Ham Timbales, Cream Sauce. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Brown Bread, Toasted. 

Rice Griddle Cakes, Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Deviled Crabs. 
Yeast Biscuit. 

Cole Slaw. 

Squash Pie. 
Coffee. 



Dinner 

Broiled Beef Steak, 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. Canned Com. 

Celery-and-Pineapple Salad. 

Toasted Crackers. Cheese. 

Coffee. 



c! 

in 
O 
> 



Menusfora Week in November (Family 

of Two) 

The first requisite for strength and power or endurance i^ a satisfactory and sufficient supply of albumens. — H" g. 



Breakfast 

Hot Granose Flakes. 

Hot Baked Apples, Cream. 

Small Baked Potatoes, 

Broiled Bacon. 

Boston Brown Bread, Toasted. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Fricassee of Chicken (Half Chicken) . 

Sweet Pickles. 

Baking Powder Biscuits. 

Squash. Celery. 

Cottage Pudding, 

Hard Sauce with Fruit Puree. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 

Supper 

Cream Toast. Honey Cookies. 

Cocoa. 



Breakfast 

Smoked Halibut, Creamed. 

Small Potatoes, Baked. 

Toasted Muffins (English). 

Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Creamed Halibut (reheated) on Toast. 

Apple-and-Date Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Breaded Lamb Chops, Fried. 

Tomato Sauce. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Celery. 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Grape Nuts, Cream. 

Hashed Chicken on Toast. 

(Baking Powder Biscuit.) 

Apple Marmalade, Bread and Butter. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Boston Brown Bread and Butter. 

New Figs. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Hashed Round Steak, Mother's Style. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 

Tea. 



Breakfast 

Hominy, Cream. 

Broiled Bacon. 

Fried Potatoes. 

Hot Apple Sauce. Toast. - 

Cereal Coffee. 

luncheon for One 

Cheese Melted on Bread. 

Apple Sauce. 

Little Nut Cakes. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Roast Loin of Lamb (boned). 

(Chops, for Wednesday, removed) 

Franconia Potatoes. Squash. 

Banana Fritters, Jelly Sauce. 

Bread Pudding, Meringue. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal, Cream. 

Fried Honeycomb Tripe. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. 

Rye Meal Muffins. 

C offee. 

Luncheon for One 

Fresh English Muffins, Toasted. 

Apple Marmalade. Cocoa. 

Salted Pecan Nuts. Dates. 

Dinner 

Half Chicken Baked, Cranberry Sauce. 

Scalloped Potatoes. 

Baked Squash, 

Lettuce Salad. 

Prune Jelly, Whipped Cream. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Grapes. 

Salt Codfish Balls 

Home made Pickels. 

Fried Hominy, Caramel Syrup. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon for One 

Egg Poached in Broth on Toast. 

Celery. 

Little Nut Cakes. Tea. 

Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Fried Pickerel, Tomato Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

French Turnips. 

Eclairs. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Breakfast. 

Egg-O-See, Cream, 

Fried Oysters. 

Home Made Pickles. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. 

Doughnuts, Coffee, 



Luncheon for One 

Celery-and-Nut Salad. 

Baking Powder Biscuit, 

Reheated. 

Grapes. 



Dinner 

Cold Roast Loin of Lamb. 

Broiled Apples. 

Mashed Potatoes. Spinach. 

Caramel Junket. 

Little Nut Cakes. 

Half Cups of Coffee. 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners 

There is no ever t greater in life than the appearance of new persons about our hearth, except it be the progress of the 
character which draws them. — Emerson. 

I (For Two) 

Roast Chicken, Bread Stuffing, Stewed Cranberries. 

Oysters-and-Celery au gratin in Shells. 

Sweet Potatoes en Casserole. Lettuce Salad. 

Hot Apple Turnovers (reheated). 

Plain Charlotte Russe. Nuts. Raisins. Coffee. 



II (Institution) 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. Olives. 

Roast Turkey, Potato Stuffing, Giblet Sauce. Cranberry Jelly. 

Squash. Boiled Onions. Scalloped Oysters, Cole Slaw. 

Salad Rolls. Pumpkin Pie. Apple Pie. Vanilla Ice Cream. Nuts. Raisins. Coffee. 



Ill (Boys' School) 

Cream-of-Oyster Soup. Celery. Gherkins. Olives. 

Canned -Salmon Croquettes. Peas. Roast Turkey, Green Stuffing, Giblet Sawge. 

Cranberry Sauce. Roast Ribs of Beef. Spiced Currants. 

Mashed Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Boiled Onions with Cream. Squash. 

Celery-and-Red or Green Pepper Salad. 

Chicken Pie. Venison en Casserole. Squash Pie. Cranberry Tarts. 

Lemon Ice Cream, Preserved Ginger. 

Nuts. Raisins. Butternut Fudge. 

Cider. Coffee. 



IV (City Home) 

Anchovy Croutons. CoNsoMMfe Julienne. 

Oysters on Lobster Patties. Roast Turkey. Cranberry Jelly. 

Chestnut Croquettes, Claret Sauce. Mashed Potatoes. Squash au Gratin. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. Brookline Biscuit. 

Roasted Wild Duck, Celery Salad. 

Cranberry Pie. Squash Pie. Golden Parfait with French Fruit. 

Crystallized Mint Leaves. Salted Almonds. Raisins. Nuts. 



V (Country Home) 

Chicken Broth with Rice. 

Celery. Tiny Gherkins. Salted Nuts. 

Roast Turkey, Bread Stuffing, Cranberry Sauce. 

Roast Loin of Young Pork, Potato Stuffing. 

Cole Slaw\ Hot Apple Sauce. Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Onions, Buttered. Squash. 

Brookline Biscuit. Cider Frapp^. 

Partridge or Chicken Pie. Pumpkin Pie. 

Thanksgiving Pudding, Creamy Sauce. Nuts. Raisins. Coffee. 



Cookery for Young Housekeepers 

By JANET M. HILL 
LESSON V 
Cooking of Tender Meat Continued 
Broiled Bacon 



BACON may be broiled over a rather 
dull fire, but with a loss of fat which 
is of value. To avoid this waste the 
cooking may be done in the oven. Lay the 
bacon, cut in very thin slices, on the wires 
of a double broiler, close the broiler and 
set it into a moderate oven over a dripping 
pan. Let cook until the bacon is delicately 
browned and crisp, then serve at once. 
This is one of the simplest and best ways 
of cooking bacon. That the bacon cook 
evenly it must be sliced evenly. Lay the 
strip, skin side down, on a meat board, 
then with a strong, sharp, thin-bladed 
knife cut in slices as thin as possible, one 
after another, down to the rind; then run 
the knife between the slices and the rind, 
thus detaching them all together. Store 
the strip in a cool, dry place, that it may 
not mould and, also, that it may be sliced 
more readily. 

Broiling Cooked Meats 

We have said that only tender meat — 
meaning by this naturally tender meat — 
was suitable for broiling, but there are one 
or two varieties of meat that are first made 
tender by long, slow cooking, and then 
broiled to improve the flavor. The fore- 
most of these are tripe and sweetbreads. 
Tripe is an inexpensive article of food that 
may be served in many appetizing ways. 



Perhaps the best of these, as it is certainly 
the simplest, is by broihng. Sweetbreads 
in some sections are considered a choice 
tid bit, and a great delicacy, and bring a 
high price, 75 cents and ^i.oo per pair. 
In other localities they are given or thrown 
away, and in country places, where there 
is only a moderate demand for them, they 
sell for twenty to forty cents a pair. Both 
of these articles are well adapted to the 
needs of the family of two. Tripe maybe 
purchased fresh or pickled. In buying 
fresh tripe get only enough for one meal, 
about a pound. More of the pickled article 
may be purchased, as it will keep in the 
refrigerator a week or longer. Presumably 
the tripe is tender when purchased. If 
this be not the case, it must be simmered 
until tender in boiling water. Sweetbreads 
spoil very quickly, and must be cooked as 
soon as purchased. Let stand in cold 
water an hour or more, changing the water 
often; remove veins, skin, etc., cover with 
boiling water and let simmer, nearly an 
hour. Drain and cover with cold water. 
When cold wipe dry and set aside until 
ready to use. 

Broiled Sweetbreads 

Cut the sweetbreads in halves lengthwise, 
brush them with softened butter and broil 
over a rather dull fire, about five minutes, 



190 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



less rather than more, turnmg them every 
thirty seconds. Baste with butter once or 
twice. Set on a hot dish, spread them 
with Maitre d' Hotel butter and serve at 
once. Peas, asparagus tips, creamed pota- 
toes or celery accompany the dish. Maca- 
roni in tomato sauce with cheese is also 
good with this dish. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe 

Brush over both sides of the tripe with 
melted butter or bacon fat, then pat on a 
board on which sifted bread crumbs have 
been spread, first on one side then on the 
other; set into a hot well-oiled broiler and 
cook over a bed of coals or under a gas 
flame from four to eight minutes. Under 
the gas flame turn but once. Over the 
coals turn every thirty seconds. Spread 
with Maitre d' Hotel butter. If the tripe 
be fresh, a teaspoonful of lemon juice 
should be gradually beaten into the butter. 

Roast Meats 

In broiling, a comparatively large ex- 
tent of surface is presented to the fire. 
Sometimes we wish to cook tender meat 
that is in a compact form. A piece is 
often but a little less thick than broad. 
To cook such meat directly over the fire 
or in front of a fire (roasting) necessi- 
tates well-nigh constant attention. To 
simplify the cooking, we use a hot oven, 
in which heat is applied to all the sur- 
faces uniformly, or approximately so. The 
first step is to sear over the surface, to 
keep the juices within the meat ; then, as 
in broiling, the heat must be lowered. 
To aid in the outside searing, and to con- 
vey heat into the meat, we pour hot fat 
over it (baste) every ten minutes. To 
sear over the meat, the oven should be at 
a temperature of 400 F. when the meat 
is set into it. After the initial searing is 
completed, the temperature should be 
lowered as soon as possible to about 240 F. 
Fat will not burn in the pan at this tem- 
perature. This is a guide in the roast- 
ing. The temperature of the roast at the 
center is much lower than 240°, on account 
of the water in composition, and thus the 



juices are not overcooked or dried out. 

Part of the fat used in basting may 
come from the meat itself, (dripping), 
but often this must be supplemented with 
additional fat left over from other roasts, 
or taken from the top of the soup kettle. 
If during the cooking a portion of the 
meat rests continuously in the hot fat, 
it will be overcooked, fried, not roasted 
or baked. To obviate this, set the meat 
on a rack, and always adapt the size of 
the pan to the size of the roast. If the 
pan be large, a large quantity of fat is 
needed to cover the surface of the pan, 
and keep it from burning. Water is some- 
times used to obviate this trouble, but 
water changes the character of the pro- 
duct and should be discarded. Roasts 
are preeminently for large families, still 
there are cuts of meat that are well 
adapted to the family of two. 

Roast Beef Tenderloin 

The tenderloin for a small family is cut 
from under the rump. It sells for thirty- 
five to forty cents a pound. It contains 
no bone and little waste. It weighs two 
and a half to four pounds ; about three 
pounds is the average weight. Two or 
four slices may be removed for broiling, 
and the rest be cooked as a roast. 

With the fingers and a sharp, thin knife, 
remove all skin and tendinous portions, 
and wipe the meat with a damp cloth. 
When the oven is ready (about 400 F.) 
rub a little salt over the surface and spread 
it with salt pork or bacon fat, or fasten 
strips of salt pork or bacon over it. Set it 
on the rack in a small pan, and into the 
hot oven ; let cook five or six minutes, 
then turn to sear over the other side; 
in about ten minutes baste with the fat 
in the pan, dredge with flour, re- 
duce the heat and let cook from fifteen 
to twenty minutes longer, according to 
the thickness of the meat. Baste three 
or more times. When cut the meat 
should be dark on the outside to the 
depth of one-fourth an inch, and the 
center shaded from pink to red, but show- 
ing no signs of rawness; i. e., the juices 



A CHEERFUL PAIR 



191 



should be coagulated throughout. Pour 
off the fat to leave two tablespoonfuls in 
the pan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour 
and stir and cook until frothy; then add 
one cup of tomato puree, beef broth or 
cold water, or a mixture of these, and 
stir and cook until boiling. For a 
higher flavored sauce, a slice of onion 
and two of carrot may be cooked in the 
fat a few moments before the flour is ad- 
ded. This roast does not have the juic- 
iness and lull, rich flavor of a rib roast, 
and calls for a richly flavored sauce. 
Bananas baked in the skin, then removed 
from the skin and covered with a sultana 
sauce are a choice accompaniment to this 
dish. 

Hamburg Roast 

Chop fine one pound of steak, cut 
from the top of the round, and two or 
three ounces of beef marrow, taken from 
the hind leg bone- a small slice of green or 



red pepper pod and half a slice of onion 
may be chopped with the meat or a tea- 
spoonful of onion juice may be- added 
after the meat is chopped. Add a scant 
half a teaspoonful of salt, the beaten yolk 
of an egg and one-fourth a cup of soft, 
sifted bread crumbs that have been soaked 
in cold water and wrung dry in a bit of 
cheese cloth. With the hand, mix all the 
ingredients together very thoroughly. 
Care must be taken to mix the marrow 
and bread evenly through the meat. 
Press the whole into a compact roll, of 
equal thickness throughout. Put a slice 
of pork or bacon on the meat rack (to 
hold up the meat) set the roast on this, 
put a second shoe over the meat and set 
to cook in a very hot oven. After six 
minutes reduce the heat, baste with the 
fat in the pan, and let cook about fifteen 
minutes longer. The roast should be 
brown on the outside and pink at the 
centre. Serve with brown or tomato sauce. 



A Cheerful Pair 

By A. T. FROST 

They went to walk one day, just Jack and Patience, 

Way down the street, and past the candy store. 
They turned a corner, maybe two, the darlings. 

And Patience she was three, while Jack was four. 
Nurse Jane was home, and dogs they passed a plenty, 

They saw some frightening things, as children can. 
Yet smiled serene, and, oh, I know the reason, 

He wore a soldier cap, she had a fan. 



His shoe strings came untied, and almost tripped him, 

And from her curls, there slipped a bow of blue, 
A saucy wind across the park came flying. 

It blew her petticoats, and ruffles too; 
The rain drops fell so quickly, pitter patter. 

And anxious Jane, straight to their rescue ran. 
But still they smiled — what mattered shine or shadow; 

He wore his soldier cap, she had her fan. 




HOME IDILAS 
AriD ECOnOMIES 



i.W>R 




■J^^-fr^ JU.A^^JL^ft..A^rt.WU,A,-ft,^.^,-IW^WWA.AfS.A^..&>.A<< 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



A Progressive Conversational 

FOR an informal yet intellectual and 
wholly delightful evening let the hos- 
tess arrange for a progressive conversation. 

Soon after arriving the guests will be 
furnished with programs upon which are 
printed (or prettily written), a series of 
topics for discussion, each followed by a 
blank space in which to write the name 
of one' s ' ' partner ' ' for that ' ' number. ' ' 
When these cards with pencils have been 
distributed, the host or hostess will ex- 
plain the entertainment briefly, request- 
ing that each gentleman seek a different 
partner for each ' ' conversation, ' ' and 
that changes be made promptly at the tap 
of the bell. Then, after allowing some 
ten minutes for the filhng of the cards, 
the discussion of the first topic begins. 
Instantly there is a buzz of words all 
through the rooms. For this just five 
minutes are allowed; then the bell taps, 
and the gentlemen are given two minutes 
in which to find their partners for No. 2. 
Thus each topic occupies some seven min- 
utes, and, if eight are assigned, the conver- 
sations easily fill an hour. While the 
last is being discussed refreshments may 
be served, and the progressiveness comes 
to an easy end. The hostess need not 
fear that there will be a lack of sociability 
afterwards, however. 

The topics should be chosen tactfully 
and with the guests in mind; local themes 
of interest to all may be interspersed, the 
humorous mingled with the serious, and 
a striking diversity made both in char- 
acter and arrangement. Some may prefer 



to put them in the form of questions, as, 
' ' What is your opinion of the present 
fashions ? " " What was the most awk- 
ward thing you ever did ? " " Are you 
afraid of the ' Yehow Peril ? ' " etc. 

The cards or programs may be as sim- 
ple or as elaborate and expensive as de- 
sired, the guests, of course, carrying them 
away as souvenirs of the occasion. In 
reahty they will be outlines of the evening's 
amusement, recalling the various discus- 
sions, and aU the more valuable, because 
inscribed with the autographs of one's 
friends. 

The whole requires little effort from the 
hostess, but she should see to it that new 
comers and comparative strangers are well 
introduced and have their cards filled. 
She should take part in the conversations 
if possible, but if it is necessary for her 
to superintend the serving, she can ab- 
sent herself unnoticed for the time. 

This form of entertainment is suited to 
large or small companies, and will please 
young and old alike. The only company 
in which it might cause any unpleasant- 
ness would be one where there were 
many women and few men, or people of 
all ages. It is peculiarly appropriate for 
a church social, however, for then the 
aim is that each person present shall talk 
with many, that there shall be neither 
silences nor prolonged conversations. 

L. Mc C. 

* # * 

WHEN a head of lettuce has the 
leaves so tightly curled that it seems 
impossible to detach them without tearing, 
fill a large pan with cold water and im- 



192 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



^93 



merse the lettuce, quickly shaking it 
about, and it will unfold. iVfter washing 
wrap the leaves in a moist napkin and 
lay on the ice for at least half an hour, 
when the lettuce will become quite crisp, 
even if it has been rather wilted. 

IN making mayonnaise. If you do not 
possess a mayonnaise mixer, put into 
the olive oil bottle a cork with a small 
hole in it. Tie the cork in, to prevent 
its dropping out, and then hold the bottle 
or prop it in such a position that the oil 
will drop slowly and steadily into your 
mixing bowl while you beat the yolks with 
an egg beater. 

IF a recipe calls for sour milk and you 
have none, take sweet milk, gradually 
add fresh lemon juice, stirring until the 
milk thickens, then add the soda accord- 
ing to directions. 

UNLESS you wish fine-powdered 
cheese, do not take the time to grate 
it. Put it through the meat chopper, 
which will cut fine very dry, hard cheese. 

ALWAYS save your bread crusts. Dry 
them thoroughly, put them through 
the meat chopper, and sift the crumbs first 
through a wire basket, then through a 
sieve. This will give you three grades. 
Use the coarsest, moistened with milk, 
for stuffing fish or poultry; the medium 
for puddings, etc. , and the finest for roll- 
ing croquette mixtures. They will keep 
a long time. Do not try to use in this 
way dry biscuit or buttered toast. 

TO keep bacon sweet and firm. Cut 
it at once from the rind, and with a 
sharp knife carefully shave, off all the 
dark smoky part from the other sides and 
edges. Wrap in heavy wax paper, and 
keep in the refrigerator. 

ALWAYS have in your kitchen plenty 
of clean tissue paper. If you live in 
a citrus fruit district, buy at a packing 
house a thousand sheets of the plain 



orange wrappers, or buy a cheap quaUty 
of white tissue. Use this for removing 
fat from soups, hot or cold. Press the 
paper gently on the surface, quickly Hft it 
and throw the paper away. Repeat the 
process, using a clean paper each time 
until the stock has absolutely no globules 
of fat on it. It is quickly done, without 
wasting the stock. 

THE next time you have to drive 
screws, rub a little soap on the tip of 
each one, and see how much more easily 
they go in. A. E. C. 



In Case of Fire 

HAVING had experience in several 
fires, I have learned many things 
that would be well for everyone to 
remember. Be sure no child or pet 
animal is shut in any room. Save, 
first of all, the money and valuable 
papers, unless they are in a fire-proof 
safe. Next in importance is the wearing 
apparel; the easiest way to save it is to 
tie up bundles of clothes in the quilts from 
the beds. Empty the closets and bureau 
drawers in this way; it is quickly done and 
the bundles are convenient to carry. In 
each bundle some breakable object, such 
as a clock, mirror, or picture, may be 
placed and will usually escape unbroken. 
Empty satchels and bags are handy, to 
gather up the silver in, and if the keys 
happen to be with them so much the bet- 
ter. If you have valuable bric-a-brac, 
take a clothes hamper or basket into the 
parlor and pack the delicate things between 
the cushions that are always plentiful 
about the house. Choice bits of cut 
glass or china may be hastily packed in a 
basket between tablecloths and napkins. 
Pillows, mattresses and rugs can be thrown 
from the upper windows and carried away 
by those below, thus saving time. Books 
are difficult to save, on account of their 
weight, unless you are so fortunate as to 
have sectional bookcases, when two care- 
ful people can carry them out unharmed. 
Such things as these can be removed 



194 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



from a house in a remarkably short time. 
Then, if there is time and help, the fur- 
niture may be saved. Try and remem- 
ber that it is better to save a few things 
in good condition than to endeavor to 
save so much and ruin it all. 

Work Dresses 

THE neatest and most serviceable 
work dresses are shirt waist dresses 
of percale or gingham, made to button 
together at the waist, so that there can 
be no shpping or pulling out at the 
belt. As the waist invariably soils 
and wears out sooner than the 
skirt, it is advisable to make two 
waists for each dress, wearing them al- 
ternately, so that in case they fade all will 
look alike. This arrangement saves not 
only material and sewing, but laundering 
as well, as it practically answers the pur- 
pose of two dresses. In one of these 
dresses one may always look neat and 
trim at the morning work. G. L. S. 



Arrangement of Kitchen Utensils 

FOR the housewife with a small kitchen 
where spoons, knives and forks must 
be kept in one compartment, try having the 
top drawer of the kitchen cabinet divided 
into three sections, the partitions extend- 
ing from the front to the back of the 
drawer. Use one section for knives and 
forks, a second for spoons of all kinds and 
a third for miscellaneous utensils, as egg 
beaters, skimmers, can openers and pan- 
cake turners. By this plan one can see 
at a glance the article desired. The drawer 
will always present an orderly appearance, 
and will hold a greater number of utensils 
than if they were laid in in a " haphazard ' ' 
manner. 

Mrs. W. E. E. 



Buttermilk Ice Cream 

One quart of buttermilk. 

One-half a cup of sweet cream. 

One and one-half cups of sugar. 

One tablespoonful of vanilla. 

Freeze this mixture like any other 
cream. It is exceedingly nourishing for 
convalescents, and either very much liked 
or equally disliked by all that eat it.^ Most 
southern people regard it as a great dainty, 
although they call it ''poor man's ice 
cream." L. McC. 

Sun Preserving 

YOU may remember I wrote you for 
directions for preserving fruit in the 
sun. I have since found the method and 
the fruit is truly dehcious. 

Gather plums or peaches when perfectly 
ripe and ready to fall from the trees. Split 
them and remove the stones. Spread 
them out on large dishes, so as not to touch 
and set them on the roof or balcony in the 
hot sun, taking them in every evening be- 
fore dark, and not putting them out until 
after the dew is off in the morning. Repeat 
this for three or four days. Then pack 
them down in stone jars with an equal 
quantity of the best brown sugar, a layer 
of fruit and a layer of sugar, alternately, 
(sugar being at the bottom and top) and 
cover the jars closely. Let them remain 
undisturbed for three or four months when 
there will be plenty of rich syrup. 

Do not throw away preserves and mar- 
malades, because you see a coat of mould 
on the surface, until you have tried to 
recover them by removing every particle 
of mould, fining up the jars with fresh 
sugar, and setting them one by one in a 
double boiler and in this way boiHng them 
again. But if they have an unpleasant smell 
and you see insects about them, of course 
they must be thrown away. Mrs. D. F. 




Diet in Its Relation to Childhood, Sick- 
ness, and Old Age 

By MAR Y D. CHAMBERS 

Sixth Paper 
Third Period of School Life: Adolescence 



THE word ''adolescence" means 
' ' growing, ' ' and is capable of very 
wide application, as regards the 
years of youth. We shall take it, roughly, 
to extend through the time of high school 
and college — more or less, as people say, 
who are not sure enough to be definite. 
During these years boys and girls in- 
crease faster in height and weight than at 
any other period of life. There is great 
mental growth as well as physical ; the 
brain at the age of fifteen years has nearly 
stopped growing in size, but develops rap- 
idly in functioning, and cerebral centres 
are formed in great number. 

Aim at Adolescence 

To preserve and further cultivate health 
of body and brain during this period of 
mental and physical transformation. To 
this end, observation should be directed 
to the following points : 

1. Rate of increase in weight. 

2. Signs of fatigue after work. 

3. Lassitude before commencing day's 
duties, — a frequent, but none the less 
abnormal, or rather subnormal condition 
at this period. The ideally healthy boy 
or girl should display abounding vitality 
from the moment of arising. 

4. Tendency to lack of physical or 
mental control. 

But, while keen observation should be 
directed to these points, care should be 
taken to avoid questioning the child as 
to health, or in any way fostering an un- 
wholesome subjectivity or mental atti- 
tude — the looking in, rather than out, 
which, at any age, is inhibitory of whole- 
some growth. 



Characteristics of this Period 

There is rapid physiological develop- 
ment, — hence a great strain is made 
upon the circulatory apparatus. 

Physiological growth is not continuous, 
the volume of the heart increases almost 
to the size of the adult, while the arterial 
system diminishes in volume — hence the 
blood pressure is increased. 

The nervous system is highly organ- 
ized and very sensitive, demanding an 
increased supply of blood to restore the 
wear and tear occasioned by the increased 
mental activity, — hence, lack of equilib- 
rium of the nervous system is very com- 
mon. 

The intellectual centres in the cortex 
are apt to develop at the expense of other 
areas, — hence, sense-perception is often 
blunted. 

The lung capacity is increased, there 
are more red corpuscles in the blood, — 
hence more carbon dioxide is given off, 
for combustion is increased in the body. 

Diet at this Period 

School life is exciting, hence stimulants 
of all kinds should be prohibited — not 
only tea, coffee, and spiritous beverages, 
but highly seasoned dishes and over-much 
use of condiments. These, by irritating the 
mucous membrane, produce an ever in- 
creasing craving for stronger stimulation, 
and thus may not only cause nervous dis- 
turbance, but may even lay the seeds of 
habits of intemperance in later years. 

The craving of children for sweets indi- 
cates, as has been said before, an actual 
demand of nature, at this energy-spend- 



195 



196 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ing age, for a ''quick fuel" food. Young 
people need more sugar than adults, and 
should have it in the form of simple sweet 
dishes after dinner, or a little pure candy ; 
or marmalade or jam for a luncheon relish. 
Regularity at meals should be insisted 
upon, and breakfast, especially, should 
never be omitted or ''rushed through," 
the plea of lack of appetite in the morn- 
ing being frequently imaginary, and caused 
only by a nervous desire to "be in time ' ' 
at school. The young, growing creature 
has little reserve force, and the loss of 
even one meal must often tax the strength 
somewhere, either in mind or body, inter- 
fering more or less with the rhythm of 
normal development. 

In general, the foods prohibited at an 
earlier period should still be forbidden. 
It is the opinion of one authority, at least, 
that the digestive organs, at fifteen years 
old, provided the diet has been carefully 
regulated up to that time, will then have 
gained their full strength, and for the next 
twenty or even thirty years may be trusted 
with anything in reason. Surely, care 
during those early years is not too high 
a price to pay lor exemption from the 
evils of dyspepsia during the period of 
greatest usefulness. 

Another word regarding fried food, for 
which there should be no smallest tolera- 
tion. Flour mixtures prepared in this way 
cannot be sufficiently cooked, the time 
allowed is too short ; with all foods there 
is danger of too much absorption of the 
fat, thus hindering the work of digestion 
by the formation of an oily covering that 
interferes with the action of the digestive 
secretions; while even in the case of the 
so-called *' proper methods" of frying 
there is always a decomposition of the fat, 
setting free the fatty acids and splitting up 
the base into still more irritating substan- 
ces that cannot be eaten by anybody 
with impunity, — unless, perhaps, he be 
a Canadian lumberman. 

Disorders of Appetite 

Certain disorders of appetite are com- 
mon during adolescence, the most prom- 



inent of which, especially with girls, is a 
certain lack of appetite due to over-fussi- 
ness. Where the care of the diet in pre- 
ceding years has been thorough, this 
should never occur, except as the result of 
some constitutional vice, either inherited, 
or acquired through a succession of ill- 
nesses in earlier childhood. The rem- 
edy should be an abundance of outdoor 
life and outdoor exercise, golf, tennis, 
rowing, etc. , — and summers spent in the 
country. 

Inability to eat because of some dis- 
order of the teeth is a commoner source 
of apparent caprice of appetite than is 
often supposed. Every child should have 
a thorough dental inspection at least once 
a year, whether there is complaint of the 
teeth or not. The condition of the sys- 
tem is frequently indicated by the condi- 
tion of the teeth, when other constitu- 
tional symptoms may be hidden or over- 
looked. Sometimes there is a condition 
of depraved appetite, when the boy or 
girl will eat slate pencils, chalk, plaster, 
wax candles, etc. In some few cases this 
may be provoked by deficiency of s.ome 
needed food principle, e. g. , mineral mat- 
ter — but it is more frequently the result 
of lack of equilibrium in the nervous sys- 
tem. Treatment, good diet, hard physi- 
cal exercise, regular habits. Do not scold, 
reason quietly. 

Dangers to be Avoided at this Period, 
Especially in Girls 

The chief of such dangers are anaemia, 
and ner^^ous disturbance or hysteria. When 
such become estabUshed a large period of 
ill-health may result, — but with the ex- 
ception of these and such other minor 
disorders as have root in the lack of nerve 
equilibrium common at this age, adoles- 
cence is really a period of increased power 
to resist disease. (This is contrary to 
the opinion of many, but is strongly as- 
serted by several high authorities. ) 

Anaemia is either a deficiency of blood, 
or a deficiency of some important con- 
stituent of the blood, especially hema- 
oflobin. 



DIET IN ITS RELATION TO CHILDHOOD, SICKNESS, AND OLD AGE 197 



Symptons : Loss of color in face and 
lips. Color under nail changes less when 
nail is pressed. Palpitation is easily ex- 
cited, and loss of breath is observed after 
exertion. Lethargic manner, often de- 
pression of spirits, inability to work, and 
drowsiness. Frequent loss of appetite, par- 
ticularly in early part of the day. 

Causes: Diet insufficient and inappro- 
priate resulting in impoverished blood, or 
diminution in the number of corpuscles. 
Confinement in hot, close rooms, as in 
school buildings; and lack of ventilation 
and light, especially in sleeping rooms. 
Puberty is an efficient cause of anaemia. 

Remedies: Nutritious and easily di- 
gested food, with particular attention to 
foods rich in iron in organic form, such 
as spinach, yolks of eggs and beef. Rest, 
outdoor hfe, and gentle exercise only if in- 
clination is felt. Avoid pastry, sweets, 
and over-much carbohydrates — and in- 
crease proteids. 

Nervous Disturbance: This, in some 
form can hardly be avoided at this age, and 
for this very reason it is most important 
that nervous or hysterical habits be not 
formed, which may unfavorably affect the 
whole future life in its usefulness and 
happiness. 

Symptoms: Restlessness and fidgeti- 
ness, the girl taps her feet on the floor, 
drums on the table, cannot be quiet and 
reposeful. 

There is often an asymmetrical balance 
of the head, spine and hands, and the 
head is sometimes extended. 

Craving for attention and sympathy is 
often so great that a girl will deliberately 
perform even rude and unbecoming acts 
for the sake of being noticed. 

Immoderate expression of emotion, so 
common in early youth, is nothing but a 
symptom of lack of mental poise. A be- 
loved friend or teacher is '^ adorable," a 
chocolate cake is "heavenly," a fine view 
is "perfectly elegant." This misuse of 
EngHsh, being a vulgarity, may be trusted 
to cure itself, but the habit of unrestrained 
expression of emotion is not so easily over- 
come, and will, in later years, react ner- 



vously on the nervous organism which 
originated it. 

Causes: Sometimes there is a constitu- 
tional predisposition; sometimes a subjec- 
tive mental attitude; very often it is a 
species of contagion, the habit is caught 
from imitation. Again, a more serious 
nerve condition may be induced by over- 
strain, study, unwholesome competition, 
or the magnifying of home worries — family 
troubles — perhaps newly confided to the 
imaginative young creature by a mother 
not well-poised enough to bear her cares 
alone. 

Treatment: Fresh air, outdoor games 
and wholesome exercise will cure most of 
the abnormalities and subnormalities of 
youth. A hearty breakfast, abundance of 
easily digested fat, and fresh fruit, with the 
avoidance of all stimulants, will cover the 
dietetic treatment. Going early to bed is 
very important. The moral training is still 
more essential. Obedience to the laws of 
health, thoughtfulness for others, and self- 
control should be inculcated now, at this 
period of psychic transformation, as never 
betore. Pride should be stimulated in the 
exercise of the inhibitory centres, which, 
curiously enough, are found in the higher 
intellectual region of the brain — from 
which it is at least permissible to deduce 
that character follows intellect, if character 
largely consists in abihty to ' ' obey one' s 
self" 

The parent or teacher should always re- 
member that hysterical tendencies can be 
overcome by an exercise of will on the part 
of the hysterical subject. Hence, ' ' taking 
no notice," good-humored raillery, or 
even a little hard-hearted firmness may be 
curative agencies. A story is told of a girl 
who went for the first time to the room of 
a special teacher in high school. ' ' Miss 
Blank," she said, going up to the teacher's 
desk with a confidential attitude, "I am 
troubled with fits of nervousness, when I 
cannot control my laughter, so when I feel 
this coming on I usually shp quietly out of 
the room, so as to avoid disturbing the in- 
structor or the class; I thought I would teU 
( Continued on pao^e xiv) 



m 







/^ 



^ 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill 
Editor Boston Cooking- School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1290. E. M. A., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
" Recipes for Spiced Grapes. Grape Juice aid 
Pickled Mushrooms." 

Spiced Grapes 
Weigh out seven pounds of grapes and 
slip the pulps from the skins. Put the 
pulp over the fire in a white-lined sauce- 
pan and let simmer until softened, then 
pass through a sieve fine enough to 
keep back the seeds. Add this sifted 
pulp to the skins with four pounds of 
sugar, one pint of vinegar, one nutmeg, 
grated, one tablespoonful and a half of 
ground cinnamon and a scant tablespoon- 
ful of ground cloves. Let the whole sim- 
mer very gently for two hours. Store as 
canned fruit. 

Grape Juice 

Pick the grapes from the stems and 
put them into a clean saucepan with a 
pint of water to each two quarts of grapes ; 
cover and heat slowly to the boiling point. 
When the mass is boiling hot, through- 
out, turn it into a heavy bag to drain ; 
when cool press out the juice remaining. 
Turn all the juice together, or keep that 
expressed by pressure by itself as a sec- 
ond quahty of juice. Heat the juice to 
the boihng point, skim and store in fruit 
jars as in canning fruit. Sugar may be 
added to the juice if desired, but it is 
preferable to omit it. 

Pickled Mushrooms 
If the Agaricus campestris be the variety 



to be pickled, remove the caps from the 
stems or leave them in place as desired. 
Peel the caps and put them into fruit 
jars ; for each two jars desired, take a 
third jar and partially fill it with the 
mushrooms. Set the jars on a folded 
towel, laid on the rack of a steam 
kettle, and pour in cold water to come 
halfway to the top of the jars ; put the 
Hds over the jars, and cover the kettle. 
Let cook three-fourths an hour after boil- 
ing begins, then fill the two jars from the 
third. Have ready a quart or more of 
vinegar, scalded, with two tablespoonfuls 
of assorted spices, cloves, mace, celery 
seed, mustard seed, tiny red pepper pods, 
black pepper-corns and the like. Pour 
the vinegar into the jars to fill them to 
overflow ; adjust the rubbers and covers 
and let cool in the kettle. 



Query 1291. F. B. S., Oswego, N. Y. "Re- 
cipe for Rice Salad, — it contains cold boiled 
rice, garlic, cucumber, etc." 

Rice Salad 

Rub a bowl with a clove of garlic cut in 
halves ; put into it a cup of cold, boiled 
rice, so cooked that the grains are dis- 
tinct. Mix together three tablespoonfuls 
of olive oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
generous fourth a teaspoonful of paprika. 
Mix together thoroughly and pour over 
the rice. With a spoon and fork Hft the 
rice to mix the dressing through it. Add 



198 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



199 



half a cup of cucumber cubes or slices of 
celery and mix again. Put the mixture 
into tomatoes, hollowed out for the pur- 
pose. Serve on a bed of lettuce or 
shredded cabbage, dressed with the same 
measure of French dressing as was pre- 
pared for the rice. 



Query 1292. Miss J. E., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
"What is the best method of treating salt in 
salt shakers on the table so that it can be readily 
shaken out ? " 

Salt in Salt Shakers 

Put a fresh supply of salt into the 
shakers each week, then, unless the 
weather be unusually damp, the salt can 
be readily shaken out. Cerebos salt, a 
specially prepared table salt, does not read- 
ily absorb moisture and is much favored 
for table use. 



Query 1293. A. E. K., Montgomery, Ala. 
"In baking a butter cake, if the heat be de- 
creased when the cake is fully risen, would the 
cake fall ? " 

Baking Cake 

The general rule in baking cake is to 
bake in a rising heat. After the heat has 
"set" the minute air cells or made them 
firm, then decrease the heat. If heat be 
suddenly withdrawn, or very much low- 
ered, a cake, though fully risen, will fall. 
The Swansdown cake^flour referred to 
makes good cake. 



Query 1294. Miss A. C, Fort Scott, Kan. 
" Recipe for Plain Pie Crust and for Custard Pie." 

Plain Pie Crust 

Sift together three cups of sifted pastry 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a 
level teaspoonful of baking powder; with 
the tips of the fingers work lightly in three- 
fourths a cup ot shortening, then mix with 
a knife to a dough, adding cold water as 
is required. Cut off enough dough for 
one crust. Turn the dough on a board 
lightly dredged with flour, then pai, roll 
and trim it into a round to fit the pan. 



Custard Pie 

Beat four eggs thoroughly, then beat 
in half a teaspoonful of salt and three- 
fourths a cup of sugar, and, gradually, 
three cups of rich milk. Turn into a 
deep earthen plate lined with pastry and 
bake in a moderate oven until the center 
is firm. The heat of the oven should not 
be high enough to cause the custard to 
boil. In lining the plate let the paste be 
larger by about an inch and a half; fold 
the paste under to the plate, then flute the 
doubled portion, pressing it close to the 
plate meanwhile. See illustrations in No- 
vember Magazine 1904. 



Query 1295. H. B. P., Oakland, N. J." Recipe 
for Canning Mushrooms, especially the variety 
known as ' Fairies.' " 

General Recipe for Canning 

Mushrooms. 

Wash the mushrooms and discard the 
stems ( they require longer cooking than 
the caps). Put the caps into fruit jars, 
shaking the jars to cause the caps to ''set- 
tle down ' ' into the jars. Set the covers 
in place and the jars on a towel, laid on 
a rack in a canner, steam or other kettle ; 
pour in boiling water to half cover the jars ; 
cover the kettle and let boil one hour and 
a half after boiHng begins. Add a tea- 
spoonful of salt to a quart of boiling water 
and use this as is needed to fill the jars to 
overflow ; adjust the rubbers and covers 
and let boil fifteen minutes. 



Query 1296. Mrs. A. M. C, Jacksonville, 
Florida, In panbroiling meat in a cast aluminum 
pan why does the meat adhere to the pan? 
What is the best method of caring for aluminum 
cooking utensils ? " 

Panbroiling in a Cast Aluminum 
Pan 

Possibly tiie meat may stick to the pan 
because the pan has not received sufli- 
cient polish on the inside. Formerly such 
dishes were left rough. The pan should 
be very hot when the meat is put into it, 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and should be rubbed over with a bit of 
fat meat. No fat should, however, re- 
main in the pan. 

Care of Aluminum Dishes 

Scour the inside with sapolio, wash in 
soap suds, rinse thoroughly in boiling 
water and wipe dry. Polish the outside, 
occasionally, with whiting, stilboma, or 
electro silicon. 



Query 1297. Mrs, Wm. B., Coshocton, O. 
*' Recipes for quick-made Mayonnaise Dressing, 
Caramel Filling for Cake and Chess Pie, 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Beat the yolks of two eggs until light- 
colored and thick. Add half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful or 
more of paprika, and beat again. Then 
beat in two tablespoonfuls of acid, — 
lemon or vinegar, or half of each as is 
preferred. When the mixture is smooth, 
beat in half a teaspoonful of olive oil. 
Continue beating in the oil, increasing the 
quantity to a teaspoonful, and, finally, to 
a tablespoonful, until a pint has been ad- 
ded. Use a Dover egg-beater, and beat 
vigorously from the start. If the dressing is 
to stand any time before using, cover the 
receptacle with a glass or china plate, and 
set it aside in a cool place. Beat the full 
quantity of acid given into the yolks at first, 
or the oil can not be added in the quan- 
tity indicated. Follow the directions care- 
fully, and a smooth, perfect mayonnaise 
may be assured. 

Caramel Filling for Cake I 

Boil one cup and a half of brown sugar, 
half a cup of cream and one teaspoonful of 
butter, forty minutes. Add half a pound 
of marshmallows, a teaspoonful of vanilla, 
and beat until thick enough to spread. 
The marshmallows may be omited; simply 
beat the cooked ingredients until of a 
proper consistency to spread. 

Caramel Frosting (and Filling) II 

Boil one cup of sugar and one- fourth a 
cup of water until a thread three or more 



inches in length will hang from the spoon 
after the syrup has run off. Meanwhile, 
cook one-fourth a cup of sugar to caramel; 
add two or three tablespoonfuls of water 
and cook until the caramel is dissolved. 
When the first mixture threads, add to it 
the caramel syrup, then reboil until the 
whole threads; then pour it in a fine stream 
on to the white of an egg beaten until dry. 
Beat the frosting until firm enough to hold 
its shape, and it is ready to use. 

Caramel Filling III 

Boil one cup and a halt of brown or 
maple sugar, one ounce of chocolate, a 
teaspoonful of butter and three-fourths a 
cup of thin cream until when tested in cold 
water a consistent soft ball may be formed. 
It will take about forty minutes. Stir the 
mixture occasionally. Do not substitute milk 
for the cream, as it is more liable to curdle. 
Evaporated cream or condensed milk di- 
luted with water may be used. When the 
ingredients are cooked, add a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract and beat until thick 
enough to spread. Then use at once as 
the filling hardens very quickly. The recipe 
for Chess pie will be published in a later 
number of the magazine. 



Query 1298. — C. E, M., "Recipe for Corn 
Meal Griddle Cakes, and Okra Soup," 

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes 

Corn meal requires long, slow cooking. 
Griddle cakes are cooked quickly. Thus 
the smaller the quantity of corn meal the 
more wholesome the griddle cake. Stir a 
cup of thick, sour milk — buttermilk or 
sour cream are better — into half a cup of 
corn meal and let stand over night. In 
the morning add half a cup or more of the 
sour milk, an egg beaten light, a table- 
spoonful of sugar, and half a cup of flour, 
sifted with a scant half teaspoonful of salt 
and half a level teaspoonful of soda; mix 
thoroughly and bake at once. Sweet milk 
and two level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der may take the place of the sour milk 
and soda. 



A DVERTISEMENTS 




BY C. ALUN SILBERT 



Old Fashioned 
Girls— By Our 
Modern Artists 

By MARY JANE McCLURE 

C If you were to attempt to picture your idea of an 
old-fashioned girl, how would you depict her ? Would, 
she have a curl nestling alongside the curve of her 
neck, tantalizingly tempting her admirers gently to 
lift it and kiss the soft, pinky-white flesh "against which it 
rests? Would she be a Dolly Varden type, daintily 
graceful ? Would she be a sedate Colonial dame in Quaker 
bonnet and sober dress? Would she be a Pompadour beauty? 
Perhaps you will be able to find your ideal amongst the collection, 
of "Old Fashioned Girls" issued by Armour & Company in the= 
form of a Calendar as their 1908 contribution to American art. 
Five prominent American artists have endeavored to picture their 
ideals. A. B. Wenzell, C. Allan Gilbert, Henry Hutt, Harrison 
Fisher and F. S. Manning have succeeded in producing a veritable 
chef d'Oeuvre. Considered either as a collection or singly, the 
pictures are pronounced by art connoisseurs to be a valuable addi- 
tion to the artistic achievements of the year. The manner in 
which they may be obtained is mentioned below. C, A gulf wider 
than time separates the old-fashioned woman from her twentieth 
century sister. Our grandmiothers and their grandmothers before 
them were taught all the intricacies of brewing and baking. There 
was nothing about the art culinary they did not know how to do. 
C Extract of Beef (especially if it is Armour's) is one of the 
new-fashioned things that help the untrained woman of today to 
lighten labor and solve domestic problems. The old-fashioned 
woman was compelled to boil the very life out of the beef-shin in 
order to secure the extract of beef. The operation required more 
than hours — it took days — weary days— hanging over a steaming 
soup pot skimming and stirring until the soul was boiled out 
of the woman as well as the shin. CThe twentieth-century woman 
dips a spoon into a tiny jar of Armour's Extract of Beef, stirs it 
about in the pot containing the other ingredients — and the soup is 
made. CThe old-fashioned woman knew nothing about the use of 
beef for flavoring and coloring purposes. She had recourse to 
black coffee or caramel when she desired to make a dark-colored 
gravy. The woman of today knows that Armour's Extract of 
Beef not only colors the gravy, but adds to the intensity of the 
browned-meat taste. 

cold Fashioned Girl Calendar will be sent on receipt of twenty- 
five cents in stamps, or in exchange for one metal cap from jar of 
Armour's Extract of Beef, accompanied by four cents for postage. 
If desired, the "Old Fashioned Girls" may be secured without 
calendar dates or advertising. These are printed on extra large, 
special paper, and are suitable for framing or portfolio purposes. 
The entire set will be sent, express prepaid, for one dollar, or 
single pictures will be furnished for twenty-five cents. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitvites 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Okra Soup 

Chop an onion and a green pepper pod 
rather fine; cut an ounce of raw lean ham 
into tiny dice (one-fourth an inch); put 
these into a soup kettle in which two or 
three tablespoonfuls of butter or fat from 
the top of a soup kettle has been melted 
and let cook gently, stirring occasionally, 
until the pieces are lightly browned. Add 
two quarts and a half of water, half a pint 
of tomato puree (canned tomato pressed 
through a sieve) and a shank of veal weigh- 
ing about three pounds; let simmer about 
three-quarters of an hour. Have ready a 
dozen young and tender okra pods, trimmed 
neatly and cut into slices one-fourth an 
inch thick; add these to the soup and let 
the whole simmer half an hour, then re- 
move the veal bone (the veal may be used 
for souffle, croquettes or hash); add one- 
lou-tb ?. cup of canned corn, one-fourth a 
cup oT rooV.-^d Lima beans (canned or 
dried); auout a tablespoonful of salt and 
hall a teaspoonful of pepper. Let cook 
five minutes and serve. Half a cup of rice 
may be added with the okra, and the corn 
and beans may be omitted. Fine-chopped 
parsley is often sprinkled over the soup in 
the tureen or soup plates. 



Query 1299. Miss A. E. D., Washington, D, 
C. " Recipe for Frozen Claret Punch to serve 
"with the meat course or before the game course. 
At a "little dinner," at which roast partridges or 
fowl are served, should there be another meat 
course ; if so, what, and how should the courses 
be arranged .'' 

Frozen Claret Punch 

Boil one pint of water and a cup of sugar 
ten minutes; let cool, add half a cup of 
lemon juice, half a cup of raspberry juice 
and half a cup of claret and freeze as ice 
cream. For a less smooth and sweet 
punch, dissolve a cup of sugar in a quart 
of boihng water; when cold add the fruit 
juice and the claret and finish as above. 

Number of Courses at a Little 
Dinner 
The number of courses served at any 



formal meal is subject to great latitude. A 
little dinner of four courses may be in quite 
as good taste as one of twice that number. 
Soup, fish, with one vegetable, roast par- 
tridge, with salad, and a sweet or cheese, 
all perfectly cooked, will furnish a dinner 
above the criticism of the most fastidious 
diner. With plenty of help a ''little din- 
ner" of more courses may be attempted. 
We print two menus for a dinner for eight, 
given by Filippiniin the International Cook 
Book. 

Canapes of Ham, Oysters, Radishes 

Potage, Vert-Pre 

Codfish, Shrimp Sauce, Potatoes Macaire 

Lamb Steaks, Puree of Chestnuts 



Trouble from Coffee 

People Beginning to Learn About the Drug. 
Coffee treated me so badly that I want 
to tell people about it, and if you can use 
my letter, I will be glad. 

' ' I am 45 years old and have drank 
cofi'ee all my life. I have felt bad for 
years and did not know what ailed me. 
Sometimes I would have to press my hand 
against my heart, I would be in such pain, 
and I got so I could hardly do my work. 
My head would feel heavy and dizzy, and 
many a time I got so blind I just had to 
drop down or else I would have fallen. 

^'1 felt bad ail over. My feet would 
swell and hurt me. A friend of mine 
asked me to try Postum and stop drink- 
ing coffee, I tried the Postum, but it 
was some days before I got hold of the 
right way to make it. My heart disease 
and dropsy disappeared and I got entirely 
well. 

' ' There is much in making it. It has 
to be boiled longer than ordinary coffee, 
but when I got it made good, it was fine, 
and now I wouldn't have coffee in my 
house at all. I am sure that Postum 
saved my life, and I am now perfectly 
well I send you the names of about 
twenty people who have been helped by 
leaving off coffee, and using Postum 
Food Coffee.'' 

It's worth while to read '^The Road 
to Wellville " in the pkgs. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Real 
Mince Pie 




YiEIN2 



57 

Are put up without ccloring 
matter or preservatives. 



Suppose you had facilities for obtaining the 
choicest beef and richest white suet the markets 
produce; large, sound, juicy apples of special culti- 
vation ; spices pure and fresh, ground under your 
own supervision, Valencia confection raisins, plump 
Grecian currants and the finest Leghorn citron and 
fruit peels of your own importation ; 

— Suppose you had the Heinz equipment and sys- 
tem for preparing and blending these good things ; 

— Then you might approach the goodness of 

HEINZ 

Mince Meat 

Piquant, luscious, rich beyond compare ; pure, 
wholesome, cleanly beyond question — thus does 
every thoughtful housewife find economy and con- 
venience in buying Heinz Mince Meat in Heinz 
Improved Tins, crocks or glass jars. 

Try it for just one baking and enjoy the delight 
and satisfaction of real mince pie. 

0\hzr Heinz dainties for Winter are Preserved Fruits, Jellies, Apple 
Butter, Cranberry Sauce, Sweet Pickles, etc. Let us send our book- 
let telling about all of Heinz good tilings and how we make thew. 



H. J. HEINZ COMPANY, 

New York Pittsburgh Cliicago 



London 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xi 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Baked Spanish Onions 

Roast Capon, Lettuce Salad 

Coupe St. Andre 

Celery, Oysters, Olives 

Cream of Chicken, Francaise 

Broiled Salmon, Bernaise Sauce 

Potato Croquettes 

Tenderloin of Beef, Cassett 

Green Peas with Mint 

Coquilles of Sweet Bread 

Punch Chartreuse 

Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce 

Chicory Salad 

Strawberry Ice Cream 



Query 1300. S. A. B., Cleveland, O. » Menus 
for Sunday Dinners requiring little preparation on 
Sunday." 

Cream of Celery Soup 

C old Roast Meat, Sliced Thin 

Baked Potatoes 

Squash au Gratin 

Apple Pie (reheated) 

Coffee 

II 

Broiled Sirloin Steak 

Baked Potatoes, Creamed Celery au Gratin 

Lettuce Salad 

Coffee or Caramel Bavarian Cream 

III 

Cold Roast Chicken 

Cranberry Sauce 

Creamed Potatoes 

Baked Squash 

Celery 

Individual Charlotte Russe 

Coffee 

IV 

Consomme (reheated) 

Scalloped Oysters, Pickles 

Salad Rolls (reheated) 
Chicken and Celery Salad 
Prune Whip, Boiled Custard 
Cake, Coffee. 

The celery for soup and the au gratin 
dish may be made ready on Saturday, tlie 
cream sauce, which finishes the dishes, being 
left until Sunday. Squash au gratin is 
prepared from mashed squash left over 
from a previous dinner. Bavarian cream and 
Charlotte Russe are both desserts that can 
be kept over night in good condition, if 
the weather be cool. The crumbs for the 
scalloped oysters may be buttered before- 
hand, and the oysters washed and set aside 
in a cool place. It is then but the work of 
a few minutes to prepare the dish for the 



oven. For these a shallow rather than a 
deep dish should be selected, lest the 
oysters be overcooked. The prunes and 
the boiled custard for the prune whip may 
be prepared on Saturday. The whip should 
be put into the oven just before the oysters 
are taken out. 



Query 1301. Mrs. J. U., iFt. Wayne, Ind. 
" In making Blueberry Cake the berries always 



Take Them Out 

Or Feed Them Food They Can Study On 

When a student begins to break down 
from lack of the right kind of food, there 
are only two things to do; either take him 
out of school or feed him properly on food 
that will rebuild the brain and nerve cells. 
That food is Grape- Nuts. 

A boy writes from Jamestown, N. Y. , 
saying: ^' A short time ago I got into a bad 
condition from overstudy, but Mother hav- 
ing heard about Grape-Nuts food began to 
feed me on it. It satisfied my hunger 
better than any other food, and the results 
were marvelous. I got fleshy like a good 
fellow. My usual morning headaches dis- 
appeared, and I found I could study for a 
long period without feeling the effects of 
it. 

''My face was pale and thin, but is 
now round and has considerable color. 
After I had been using Grade- Nuts for 
about two months I felt like a new boy 
altogether. I have gained greatly in 
strength as well as flesh, and it is a pleasure 
to study now that I am not bothered with 
my head. I passed all of my examinations 
with a reasonably good percentage, extra 
good in some of them, and it is Grape- 
Nuts that has saved me from a year's de- 
lay in entering college. 

''Father and mother have both been 
improved by the use of Grape-Nuts. 
Mother was troubled with sleepless nights, 
and got very thin, and looked care worn. 
She has gained her normal strength and 
looks, and sleeps well nights." "There's 
a Reason." Read "The Road to Well- 
ville ' ' in the pkgs. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



On Fruits and Cereals 



BORDEN'S 




PEERLBSS BRAND 



Evaporated MilK 



(Unsweetened) 

Is Delicious! 




BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK COMPANY, 



ESTABLISHED 1857 



LEADERS OF QUALITY 



NEW YORK 



BELL'S SEASONING 

Usedby thebestHotels,Cliil>s,Restaurants, 
s/famifiesofRichcf Poor dike to flavor 
the Dressings for Turkey, ChicKen, 
Game, Meat and Fish. Insist on Mils 
40 Years the original^ 

MISS FAKMER'S TURKEY DRESSIIVG. 

1 cup* stale bread crumbs, 1 cup cracker 
crumbs, 1 tablespoon BelPs Seasoning', L 
teaspoon salt, ^ tablespoon finely chopped 
onion, i cup melted butter, ^ cup finely 
cliopped cold boiled ham. Mix j?vell, and 
moisten with 1^ cups scalded milk. If stuff- 
ing' IS to be served cold, add 1 egg lightly 
beaten. (From BelVs Receipts. Ask your grocer.) 

For Sausages, use Bell's Sausage Seasoning. 

Sold in 25 and 50 cent Cans ; 
6, 12 and 25 lb. Boxes ; 50. 75 and 100 lb. Drums. 



do: 




BELL'S 10c. can will flavor the dressing for 100 lbs. meat, game, fish 
or poultry. Accept BELL'S only, the original seasoning and the best 
by forty years' test. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



fall to the bottom of the cake. Have tried flour- 
ing them, also adding them before and after the 
flour is stirred in. Is there a remedy ? Which is 
preferable in these cakes, soda or baking powder ? 
Is it always necessary to use cream of tartar when 
using soda ? " 

Remedy for Settling of Fruit in 
Cake, etc. 

Try using a little more flour in the mix- 
ture. If one measure soda and cream of 
tartar carefully, it is immaterial whether 
these leavening agents or baking powder be 
used. Soda may be used with sour cream 
or milk without cream of tartar. If sweet 
milk be taken, cream of tartar must be used. 



Query 1302. Miss A. P. 



Menus for 



simple home weddings. How would the time of 
day and manner of service affect the number and 
type of courses chosen ? " 

Menus for Simple Home Wed- 
dings 
At a simple home wedding, the time 
of day need make but little difference in 
the variety of refreshments offered to 
guests. Cake with an ice or cocoa or 
tea is easily served, and answers, whether 
the wedding be at 10 or 12 o'clock, or 
still later in the day. Yet. if friends from 
a distance are invited to a morning wed- 
ding and are to return to their homes 
later in the day, more hearty food, as in 
the following menus, would be better ap- 
preciated. The guests may be seated at 
small tables, or the various dishes may be 
disposed on an ordinary dining-room 
table. At small tables, friends of the 
bride might serve the guests. At the 
dining-table, friends of the bride or the 
gentlemen present could attend to the 
wants of the guests. 

I 

Chicken Salad. Olives. Salad Rolls. 

Cake. Coffee. 

II 

Scalloped Oysters, Gherkins. 

Baking Powder Biscuit. Coffee. 

Pineapple Sherbet Cake. 

Ill 

Creamed Chicken on Rounds of Toast. Olives. 

Bread and Lettuce Sandwiches. Coffee. 

Frozen Apricots. Cake. 



Diet in Childhood, Sickness and 
Old Age 

( Concluded frofu page igj) 

you, so that you may know I cannot help 
it." 

' ' Unfortunately, ' ' repHed Miss Blank, 
with a mixture of fun and a seriousness that 
made itself felt — ''I, too, am subject to 
nervousness, so if a girl did that in my class 
I should very likely lose control of myself 
— not having been trained to self-control 
in my youth — and I should send that girl 
to the principal. Now the principal is also 
a very nervous man — he never learned to 
control himself when a boy — so I'm 
greatly afraid he my expel from the school 
anyone against whom such a complaint 
were made. ' ' 

The girl never had a fit of nervousness 
in that teacher's class. 



It had been a most delightful picnic, 
but it occurred to Bobby, as he watched 
the elders of the party clearing away the 
remnants of the feast, that he had ^eaten 
a great deal — perhaps a trifle too much 
for comfort. "Would you like another 
piece of this cake, Bobby ? ' ' asked a 
kindly disposed person, surprising what 
she took to be a wistful look in the little 
boy's eyes. '' No'm, thank you," said 
Bobby. " I think, perhaps, I could chew 
it, but I know I could n't swallow it." — 
Youth'' s Companion. 





THE HOUSEHOLD 

DISINFECTANT 



Destroys disease o:erras and foul gases. 

A-r odorless, colorless liquid sold in quart 

bottles only by drugg:ists and high-class 

grocers. 

Manufactured by Henry B. Plattt at New 

York and Montreal. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



AKER§ 

EXTRACTS 



THE 

GROCER' 

is a busy man and hasn't 
time to tell people what 
they ought to eat. He 
sells them what they 
order, so if you do not 
get BAKER'S pure 
fruit EXTRACTS it is 
your fault, not his. 

BAKER'S COME 
BY ASKING 

Comply with all Food Laws 




VsS 



JPo. 





Mpn® 



THE TAPIOCA 
WITH THE 
PICTURE OF 
THE MINUTE MAN ON 
THE PACKAGE 



In how many ways have you used it, more 
than one or two ? The Minute Cook Book 
gives 18 tested receipts for the use of Minute 
Tapioca. Start at the first one and go through 
the book. You will like them every one. 

Bear in mind, too, that Minute Tapioca 
isn't simply a dessert article, but a whole- 
some, delicious food, and the more generally 
it can be used, the laetter for health. Re- 
quires no soaking. Quickly cooked. 

If your grocer hasn't it, send his address 
and 4c. for enough to make one pint. 
Minute Cook Book FREE. 

'^VHitmstxi Grocery Co., 
Dept. S Orange, Massachusetts 



Table China and Glass 

ADAPTED TO 

Hotels, Clubs, and Families 

Intending buyers will find an extensive 
stock to choose from in 

Dinner Sets Salad Sets 

All values 

Pudding Sets Ice Cream Sets 
Fish Sets Oyster Plates 

Also single dozens of China Plates for course 
dinners ; also 

Bouillon Cups and Saucers 
Ramekins, all values 

French Porcelain Souffle Dishes 
Paris Cafe Entree Dishes 
Covered Cheese Dishes 
Fireproof Welsh Rarebit Dishes 

Umbrella and Cane Holders, Ferneries for 
Table Decorations, Plant Pots, and Pedestals. 

In the Dinner Set Department will be seen 
many attractive ^/(^t-/^ Fattej'us always readily- 
matched, also other designs not to be 
duplicated. 

In the Glass Department (second floor) an 
Extensive Exhibit of 

Fingfer Bowls, Vases^ Cocktails, Roemers, 
Sorbets, Creme de Menthes, Cordials, 
Lemonades, Champagfnes, Hocks, De- 
canters, Carafes, etc* 

KITCHEN WARE DEPARTMENT 

Comprises everything pertaining to the 
home in this line, adapted for the family, club, 
hotel, yacht, or public institution. 

In the GLASS DEPARTMENT will also 
be found all grades, from the low-cost pressed 
ware to the etched and costly rich cut speci- 
mens adapted to Wedding Gifts. 

Ilare and odd China Pitchers, from the 
ordinary up to the costly. Over 800 kind^ 
to choose from. 

In brief, everything pertaining to crockery, 
porcelain and glassware connected with home, 
hotel and club, in sets or parts of sets up to 
the costly table services. Inspection invited. 



Jones, McDuffee & Stratton Co., 

CHINA, GLASS AND LAMPS 

(ten flooks) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 Franklin Street, cor. Hawley, Boston 

Near Washington and Summer Streets 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Her First Thanksgiving Dinner 

( Concluded from page 173) 

in an incredibly short time, the dining table 
and side table were dressed and ready. 

Consultation with the cook's schedule 
then showed the hostess that there were 
just four things for her to do in the kitchen, 
while Tom cracked the ice and put the 
sherbet in the crankless freezer. Louise 
had found this freezer a boon in her efforts 
to economize time and strength in her 
housekeeping. By its use, she had evolved 
ices as smooth and fine in texture as if she 
had asked Tom to spend a half hour of 
good temper and muscle energy upon the 
old-fashioned method. 

At noon the turkey, white and plump, 
trussed according to the careful directions 
of the cook book and well smeared with 
butter, was slipped into the oven of the gas 
range, and after the flour dredged over it 
had browned and Louise had reduced the 
heat and basted it for the first time, she 
closed the oven door with a feeling that the 
last bridge was burned behind her and suc- 
cess or failure loomed near. 

The hour from two to three was a busy 
one of course, with everything getting done 
and needing attention at once, but in the 
half hour while the potatoes were boiling 
she had put the finishing touches to the 
table, transferring lettuce, celery, radishes 
and grape fruit from the refrigerator to the 
dishes waiting for them, and was dressed, 
ready for her guests, with a big apron 
slipped over her gown to protect it from 
possible accident in taking up the dinner. 



Tom, willing but hesitating to intrude his 
big self into the busy scene about the 
range, was pressed into service upon the 
mashed potato, and he beat with a will until 
it had reached a stage of creamy lightness. 
Meanwhile Louise drained, mashed and 
seasoned the squash, slipped the turkey, 
crisp and brown, on to a hot platter, sur- 
rounded it with a wreath of green and 
thickened the gravy, adding the chopped 
giblets which had been cooked the day 
before. While these were placed to keep 
warm until their turn came for the table, 
she kept an eye on the croutons, which were 
turning a beautiful golden brown in the 
oven. Finally, nothing remained but to 
combine the hot milk and celery, binding 
them with butter and flour cooked together, 
for the soup. Tom had already gone in to 
welcome the guests, and a moment later 
Louise appeared, rosy and triumphant, to 
announce the dinner. 

We were charmed with the dainty table 
and our wonder and delight grew with each 
course. So deftly and quickly did Louise 
remove the dishes and replace them with 
others, that we were scarcely conscious of 
interruption in the conversation and laugh- 
ter which play so important a part in the 
management of a successful dinner. 

The soup, turkey, vegetables, sherbet, 
pies, all were delicious, and when, two hours 
later, we were still lingering over the coffee 
and the men had lit their cigars, loath to 
leave the fascinating board, my Richard 
said: 

"Well, Louise, you won ! How did you 
do it?" she laughingly answered: 



ASK YOUR DEALER for 

and insist on 
Having tKe 
genuine 




Sample Pair, Mercerized 
25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 



CUSHION 



Over two hundred styles. 
Wc m all over the world. 

GEORGE FROST CO., Hakers, 



BUTTON 

MOSE 
SUPPORTER 

EVERY PAIR WARRANTED 

I nni/ FOR THE NAME ANDTHE 
LUlJlV MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON 

Boston, Mass., (J. 5. A. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Lea & Pcrrins' 
Sauce ^ ^ 



A perfect relish for 
many dishes and 
an excellent 
digestive. 




Look for Lea & Perrins' signature 



Soups, FishjRoasts 
of all kinds, Gravies , 
Salads and Cheese 
are rendered p a r - 
ticularly enjoj-able 
by its use. 



John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York 




^ 



Ice Cream 

Crowns the Feast 

providing the flavor and 
consistency are pleasing. 

JUNKET 

TABLETS 

make the ice cream of such 
a delightfully smooth and 
velvety body, and of such 
exquisitely delicious taste, that 
the guests all remember the oc- 
casion with pleasure. 
We mail ten tablets to make ten 
quarts, post-paid, for ten cents. 
Your Grocer Sells Junket Tablets. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, 

P. O. Box 2507, Little Falls, N. Y, 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Brings Health 



The only reason some people cannot 
drink coffee is because it is not properly- 
made. 

Right coffee contains nothing injuri- 
ous — on the contrary, it aids digestion, 
tones the nerves and invigorates the 
physically or mentally tired. The 

IVIanning- 

"Meteor" 
Coffee Percolator 



by an automatic circulating process ex- 
tracts all the good, and nothing but the 
good, from the coffee, giving you not 
only a healthful beverage, but better coffee. 
ECONOMY 

One of the greatest advantages lies in 
the economy, for by this method of per- 
colation only two thirds as much coffee 
is required as when made by the ordinary 
methods. The average family will use at 
least one pound of coffee per week at an 
average price of 30 cents. With the 
Manning-Bowman Meteor the saving is 
10 cents a week or 5.20 a year. The 
percolator therefore pays for itself, and 
after one year's use actually earns 100% 
profit on the investment. 

At the leading dealers in the urn style with 
alcohol burner or Coffee Pot Style for use 
on gas stove or range. Over loo styles and 
sizes. Write for descriptive booklet. 1,-19 , 

^ MAMING, BOWMM & CO., ^ 

«> MERIDEN CONN. ^^ 



" Oh ! Dick, 'twas only college training 
and — a very good cook book ! " 
' Then Tom, with a look of pride and de- 
votion in his mischievous eyes, raised his 
coffee cup: 

''Here's to our hostess," he cried, 
' ' thanks be to her college training. With 
her cook book and brains long may she 
prosper." 



A Southern lady who had been frequent- 
ly annoyed by her darky cook's having 
company in the kitchen, remonstrated with 
the girl, telling her that she must entertain 
her friends in her own quarters after work- 
ing hours. 

One evening soon after this the lady left 
the girl arranging the dinner table and went 
to the kitchen for som.ething. A great, 
hulking darky was sitting in the kitchen 
rocker. Indignant, the lady hurried back 
to the dining-room. 

' ' Cindy, ' ' she demanded, ' ' what have 
I told you about having your beaux in the 
kitchen ? " 

"Laws, miss, he ain't no beau ! Why, 
he ' s nufflin' but my brudder. ' ' 

Somewhat mollified, the lady went back 
to the kitchen. '' 

' ' So you are Cindy' s brother ? ' ' she said 
kindly. 

, ' ' Law bless yo' , no, miss, ' ' he answered. 
''I ain't no 'lation 'tall to her. I'sjes' 
keepin' comp' ny wif her. ' ' 

•The lady angry through and through, 
sought out Cindy again. 

''Cindy," she asked sternly, "why did 
you tell me that that man was your brother ? 
He says he is no relation to you." 

Cindy looked aghast. 

" Fo ' de Lawd' s sake, miss, did he say 
dat? Jes' yo' stay here a minute an' 
lemme go look ag 'in ! " 

— Everybody s Magazine. 



These trade-mark crissi 

CRESC 

SPECIA 
K. C. W 

Unlike all 
For' 
f ARWEIX & RHINE 




Ij^es on every package 

For 
DYSPEPTICS 

FXOUR 
FLOUR 

sk grocers, 
rite 
TOWN. N. V^ U. S. A, 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




(2M0C0LATE FROSTING 

Ready to Use 

Saves you trouble and uncertainty in 
cake making. Add a little water, melt 
and mix, apply the frosting and you 
have a delicious cake. 

BELL'S Chocolate Frost- 
ing has the delicious flavor of the best 
home-made frosting, and is rich and 
smooth. It is always the same. We will 
send (once only) a sample for 10 cents. 

BELL'S Chocolate Frost- 
in^ is made by a careful blending of the 
best and PUREST CHOCOLATE, 
SUGAR AND FLAVOR, mixed in the 
right proportions, and cooked to the 
exact degree necessary to produce a per- 
fect result. 

Ask your grocer. If he will not sup- 
ply you we will send prepaid full size 
package for 40 cents. 

J. S. Bell Confectionery Co., 

Cambrid^eport, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xix 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 







the most perfect 
Luncheon Wafer Ever Produced Is 






CHOCOLATE •^ DIPPED 

TRISCUIT, 

THE WHOLE WHEAT STEAM COOKED, 
SHREDDED, BAKED & DIPPED IN CHOCOLATE. 



COMBINES ALL STRENGTH- GIVING. 
MUSCLE -BUILDING MATERIAL IN 

SHREDDED WHEAT, 

WITH THE NUTRITIVE ELEMENTS OF 



WORLD FAMOUS CHOCOLATE. 



TRY IT MORNING, NOON OR NIGHT 
WITH A CUP OF <ef^^f^MUClOm COCOA- 
WHOLESOME! NUTRITIOUS!! 

SOLD AT OUR STORES & BY 
DRUGGISTS a GROCERS EVERYWHERE. 




Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

A Pure, Wholesome Food. 

For Table Jellies, 
Blanc Mange, Char= 
lotte Russe, etc. 

Our Gelatine is pulver- 
ized and dissolves quickly. 
It is therefore the most 
convenient form for fam- 
ily use. 

FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS. 



The following Newspaper Clipping seems 
to us not only instructive, but to bear di- 
rectly on the subject of Domesti<^ Science. 

Futile Linen Duties 

At this particular time, when there 
seems to be a tendency among the saner 
portions ot our community to admit the 
necessity — or at least the desirability — of 
an immediate revision and reduction of 
our tariff, it has occurred to the writer 
that there is need of particular attention to 
that portion of those laws which apply to 
linens and the linen industry. 

A sliding scale duty, ranging from a 
minimum of 35 percent, to a maximum 
on so-called ' ' art linens ' ' of something 
over 100 per cent., ad valorem, together 
with the fact, that, in this particular case, 
there is an attempt to apply ''protection " 
where there is nothing, and never can be 
anything, to protect, make of this particu- 
lar item in our list of duties on imports a 
most outrageous imposition upon the 
pubUc at large, and a most unnecessary 
drain upon the public purse. 

Linen flax can undoubtedly be raised 
in this country, and raised too, in large 
quantities, but it is invariably what is 
known to the flax grower as "short fiber;" 
and while the yarns which can be woven 
from the short-fibered flax can be utiHzed 
for many purposes, they are not suitable 
for the manufacture of the highest grade 
cloths necessary for competition with the 
European product. 

Not only has nature decreed that this 
country cannot produce, because of pe- 
culiar soil conditions, the class of yarns 
indispensable for the manufacture of good 
damasks, shirting linens, bed linens, 
handkerchief linens, etc. , but she has de- 
nied to us the ideal bleaching fields of 
France and Ireland, or even the less fa- 
vored ones of Scotland. The use of 
chemicals is, of course, today a recognized 
fact in the bleaching processes, particu- 
larly in those of Germany, but the ideal 
linen is the grass-bleached linen, and the 
bleaching greens of America, while well 
adapted to the demands of cotton, can- 
not or do not, answer the requirements 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XX 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Our New Type 
of Rana'e a HIT! 



Maintaining the Crawford reputation for progress we 

have constructed a new type of Range which we are 

making in two sizes — the " Palace" and "Castle." These 

Ranges are alike excepting as to size, and while possessing all 

of the usual distinctive features of 

/retwfbrd 




Single T)amper — T^ocJ^-jlsh Qrates — 
Cup-Joint Oven Flues — Perfected Oven 
— Improved Oven Indicator — 

this new type is made without the end hearth 
and with more room on top. These features 
make for economy in space and convenience in 
cooking, and the novel method of disposing of 
the ashes — which in these Ranges fall into a 
hod far below the grate — makes their removal 

easier and prevents 

the grates from 

being warped and 

burned out. 



The Coal Hod and Ash Hod are side by side, 
of same size, and when the ash hod is emptied it 
can be returned full of coal. 

The " Palace " is the extra large size ; the 
" Castle " is smaller, but otherwise the same, and 
will suit the majority of families. 

Send for illustrated Catalogue of our many styles of Ranges 

Craivfords have more improveme^tts than 
all others covibined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31=35 Union St., BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 





Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxi 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 





No. O 
Household Size 

Little 

Giant 

Ice 

CrusHer 

Only$7J50 

( 1 g ice by hand is a very nasty and 
disagreeable job, besides it is hard work and 
takes lots of time, and yon cannot crush the 
ice to a uniform and proper size. 

With this little machine all you have to do 
is to put a piece of ice in the hopper and turn 
the crank. Either a small piece or a piece 
that fills the hopper will go straight through. 

It does the work very easily and quickly 
and is built very substantially, good for years 
of hard usage. 

We send these machines on trial, to be re- 
turned if not satisfactory. Let us send you 
one. 

We also manufacture larger machines from 
hand power capacity to power machines hav- 
ing capacity of forty-five tons per hour. 

Davenport Ice Chopping Machine Co., 



1378 West Third St., 



Davenport, Iowa 



in the case of the Hnen industry. 

These are apparently insurmountable 
obstacles and no amount of tariff certain- 
ly can remove them. Linens mills exist 
undoubtedly in America, but their pro- 
ducts, with the single possible exception 
of the item of crashes, are uniformly o 
an inferior grade to that of foreign coun- 
tries, and even with the existing enormous 
tariff cannot for a moment dispute the 
market with the linens of the world. 

Facts are stubborn things. A promi- 
nent politician of the middle West has 
lately been quoted as saying that, "It 
would appear that we have gone mad in 
our efforts for the seller, totally forgetting 
that other important element, the buyer.' ' 
And the present instance is as marked an 
example of tariff failure, and of " seller- 
mad ' ' logic as one could possibly ask for. 

Not only is the Unen tariff absurdly un- 
just in its very essence, but most unnec- 
essarily complicated withal. Any Boston 
merchant can tell of the struggles of his 
custom-house man with the intricacies of 
the linen tariff schedules, of the tedious 
waste of time and effort, all of which must 
be taken into account in the cost of the 
goods, and paid for by the unfortunate 
individual whose upbringing has insisted 
that a towel is a necessity after washing. 

If this republic of ours were indeed a 
commonwealth of angels, wherein the rich 
shared justly their profits with the prole- 
tariat, a protective tariff might have a 
valued place. But in a community, where 
a 40 per cent, increase in profit is gener- 
ally accompanied by a grudgingly given 10 
per cent, increase in wages, a protective 
tariff should have no place. Had such a 
tariff no existence in our poHtical econo- 
my, "the sun of prosperity" might not 
have arisen for us as a nation so fast and 
so furiously, but it would inevitably have 
arisen, and it would not have been ac- 
companied by the crying evils which now 
beset the land and agitate the executive 
and judicial departments of our govern- 
ment, if not the legislative. 

Is it not barely possible that we have 
hatched roc' eggs in our goose and hen 
incubator? G. B. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxii 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






^ ^Zi. ^-^ 








n 



-i \ 






\ 











Chill Tall Nights 

Before the fires are lighted, when the evenings are chilly 
and damp, the room in which you sit should be warm 
and dry for your health's sake as well as comfort. 

PERFECTION OU Heater 

(Equipped i/vitli Smokeless device) 

is just the thing for this time of year. Touch a 
match to the wick — turn it up as far as it will go. 
You can't turn it too high, the Smokeless Device 
prevents. Heats a large room in a few minutes 
and can be carried easily from one room to another. 
Handsomely finished in Nickel or Japan. Burns 9 
hours with one filling. Every heater warranted. 



The 



He^/b Lamp 

^^a^^ poses. Give: 



m 



is the best lamp for all- 
round household pur- 
poses. "Lrives a clear, steady light. 
Made of brass throughout and nickel plated. Equipped with the 
latest improved central draft burner. Handsome — simple — sat- 
isfactory. Every lamp guaranteed. 

If you cannot get heater and lamp at your aealer's, write to 
our nearest agency. 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 

(Incorporated) 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




For Ironing Day 

Putateaspoonfulof melted ^^ ^^ 
paraffiine in the starch on ^s^-^ 
ironing- day. Itlessensthe 
work by half and gives a 
beautiful gloss to the clothes 

Pure Refined 

Paraffine 

also keeps the irons from sticking. Wrap a bit of 
muslin round a piece and rub it on the hot face 
of the iron. Paraffine is handy for a multitude of 
household uses— best thing known to seal jelly 
cups and fruit jars airtight. Pure Refined Paraffine 
comes in handy size cakes. Ask your dealer. 
STANDARD OIL CO. 



■HOME 
CANDY 
MAKING 



A Postal will bring a 
Descriptive Booklet. 



Are You 
Interested 
in Making 
Candy at 
Home? 

If so, let us ex- 
plain to you our 
new system with 
the use of a 

THERMOMETER. It never makes a mistake. We 
teach you how to duplicate the finest candies 
made, including hand-dipped bonbons, all kinds 
of ordinary candies, and our famous Oriental 
cream, which has a centre like whipped cream. 
This one recipe alone is worth several times the 
price of our outfit, but we give you about eighty 
others. We guarantee success, and gladly an- 
swer all questions of our pupils. The outfit 
consists of the book, a regular confectioner's 
thermometer, dipping wire, and four bonbon 
moulds. Sent anywhere prepaid upon receipt 
of price, ^3.00, and we guarantee safe delivery. 

The Home Candy Makers 

Dept. B. Canton, Ohio 




4 s ^ 

ALUMINUM INDIVIDUAL JELLY AND TIMBAL MOULDS 

1 =6 of a pint each 

Will chill more quickly than copper. Packed 1 doz. assorted styles 
in a box. 

PRICE $1,50 A DOZEN, POSTPAID 

F. A. ^WALKER & CO. 

83-85 Corrihill, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass. 



Serving Tea in Wall Street 

One of the largest private banking and 
bond houses in Wall street has adopted the 
English custom of serving tea to its em- 
ployees every afternoon at four o'clock. 
This innovation for America is character- 
istic of the attitude of the firm toward its 
employees. 

The firm believes in giving its men proper 
recreation and diversion, and the result is 
an increased spirit and efficiency. The tea 
is served every working day. For those 
who do not drink tea, chocolate or cocoa 
is served. The refreshments are prepared 
on an electric stove in a small anteroom by 
a woman especially hired for this purpose. 
With the tea or chocolate the employees 
receive biscuits or small cakes. The dis- 
tribution apphes to everybody in the es- 
tabhshment, from the firm down to the 
newest office boy. 

One interesting feature of this custom is 
that instead of interfering with the work of 
t-ie day, it really stimulates it. The men 
sometimes continue their dictation while 
sipping their tea. The refreshment leaves 
them revived and in good mental and phy- 
sical shape to continue the day. 

Modest Tommy 

The camel has nine stomachs — 

I heard it at the zoo, 
Now would n't I be happy 

If I had only two ! 

Oh, yes, I 'd brim with gladness 

And call my life a dream, 
With one for just roast turkey 

And one for just ice cream. 

—Puck. 

The old lady who distinguished her pies 
by marking them with a ' ' T, " signifying 
' ' ' Tis mince, " ' " Taint mince, ' ' has been 
outdone by the cuHnary expert of a little 
hotel among the Green mountains. The 
chance guest had finished the serious part 
of a wholesome dinner, when the cook, who 
was also waitress and landlady, asked him 
if he did n' t want some pie. ' ' What sort 
of pie have you? " he asked expectantly. 
' ' Well, we ' ve got three kinds, ' ' said the 
hostess, ''open-faced, cross-barred and 
kivered — all apple. ' ' 

— Women' s Home Compa7iion. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxiv 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BENF'^RFS 

1 '■■J 



n 



COCOA 




"^^mt oi^-tc^ 



.'. 




Known the world over as the Cocoa of 

Double Strength and Highest Quality. The perfect 

drink for the growing child and nourishing to all. Do not forget 



YOU SAVE 





YOUR COCOA 



by using the Cocoa in the Yellow Wrapper. 

A TRIAL CAN. MAKING 15 CUPS, SENT FOR ID CENTS. 

Stephen L. Bsurtlett Co., Importers, Dept. 3, Boston, Mass. 

J¥sk for Bensdorp*s Dutch Milk Chocolate. 



\ 





UNDERWOOD'S 

, ORIGINAL 

1 DEVILED HAM 

la camp, picnic* or home, it will be found not 
oaJy pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
cm deviled ham— Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
AM others are imitations, but imitations in name 
©saly, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
daeeae, . Send for hook of 4j prize receipts. 

WM, VNDERWOOD CO, 



BOSTON. HA^S. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XXV 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Easy Washing 

Next Monday's wash will be done 
easier, and very much better, it you 
put one-half tea cup fuU of shaved 
taraffine in the wash boiler. Dis- 
Bolve soap and Paraffine together 
before adding to the suds. 

Pure Refined 

PARAFFINE 

is a very useful article to have in the house 
—gives a fine gloss to the starched things 
—a beautiful finish to the floors and is 
the best tiling in the world to seal 
jelly cups and fruit jars air tight. 
In handy size cakes at your 
dealer's. 

STANDARD OIL CO. 

I (Incorporated.) 





MAGIC COVER 



Maeic Cover for Pastry Board and Roiling Pin ; chem- 
S!y treated and hygienic; recommended by leading 
teachers of cooking. By mail 60c. 

F. A. WALKER & CO. 

83-85 Cornhill, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass. 




MY experience with Old Grist Mill 
Wheat Coffee is of long standing, hav- 
ing used it for years in preference to coffee. 
I can heartily recommend it for children, 
and it is of great benefit to one troubled 
with indigestion. — I^rom Good House- 
keepi?ig Testimonials 



America a Crucible 

Lord Rosebery compares the United 
States to a crucible in which ^ ' the metals 
of every race and nation under the sun are 
being melted together." The process of 
fusion he is watching ''with breathless in- 
terest." Whether one studies the process 
at long range, like Lord Rosebery, or at 
first hand, like the Bishop of London, it 
looms large on the world' s horizon as one 
of the great experiments of humanity. The 
Bishop of London, just before he returned 
home, said that one of the surest proofs of 
idealism of this country is the way in which 
it meets this problem. — Bosto?i Herald. 



Professor Wiley, chief of the Bureau of 
Chemistry in the United States Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, has returned from 
France with an exalted idea of French 
cooking and some homely truths for his 
countrywomen. ' ' There are American 
women," he says, " who pass years trying 
to learn to play the piano, for which they 
have httle talent, while they neglect cook- 
ing as beneath their dignity." A noc- 
turn on the chafing dish, Professor Wiley 
evidently thinks, is harder to play, but 
better worth while. In the whole course 
of his stay in France he did not find a sin- 
gle dyspeptic. — Youth' s Companion, 



Bashful Man at Court 

Sad Experience of Horse Trader at Luncheon 
With King Haakon 

Copenhagen, Sept. i6. — M. Hanson, 
a well-known Danish horse dealer, who 
sold King Haakon of Norway several hor- 
ses, was invited to take lunch with men - 
bers of the royal family at Christiania. 

He had never been at court before. 
He believed that the King toasted him, 
although his majesty only wanted salt, and 
he rose, thinking he had been thus hon- 
ored. Unfortunately in his confusion, he 
pulled the table cloth and all the dishes 
fell to the floor. 

Hanson says the King and Queen felt 
unhappier on his behalf than he did. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



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372 

BOYISTON ST. 

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MASSACHUSETTS 



$1.00 AXEAR 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XII 



DECEMBER 



No. 5 




Pont au Change and La Conciergerie 



Old Bridges of Two Cities 



Bv MARY H. NOR TREND 



PkERHAPS the most fascinating story 
that ever left the facile pen of 
-Charles Dickens is '' A Tale of Two 
Cities. ' ' The sharp contrasts of the seei^es, ' 



in the rival capitals of London and Pari^, 
are sharply accentuated by the rapidly ac- 
curaiilating horrors of the French Revd- 
-liition ; while the chaste exaltation, the 



203 



204 



THB BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



lofty self-abnegation, of the closing tragedy 
touch the heart with a resignation that 
blends all these warring elements into a 
perfect harmony. 

No less interesting in their contrasted 
beauty today sits Paris beside the Seine, 
London beside the Thames. The life of 
each city has been influenced by a river 
from its first founding. In each case, the 
site of the town was probably determined 
by the presence of the river; and, such 
being the fact, the river and its bridges, 
with their relation to the city, become a 
topic of peculiar interest. 

The Seine flows for seven miles through 
the city of Paris, and this journey it com- 
pletes in five hours. The river grows nar- 
rower as it progresses, and from a width 
of five hundred and thirty-two feet, when it 
enters the city, it decreases to four hun- 
dred and forty, when it leaves it. Its 
greatest width is at Pont Neuf, where it 
reaches nine hundred and sixty-one feet. 
It is crossed by twenty-six bridges. There 
are great viaducts, where the river enters 
the city and where it leaves it. These 
are used for the circular railway, as well as 
for general traffic. Two bridges, the 
Pont des Arts and the Passerelle de Pas- 



sy, are for foot-passengers only ; all the 
others permit carriages to cross. 

The frontispiece represents the Parisian 
view of the Seven Bridges across the 
Seine. These in their order, beginning 
at the lower left corner, are the Pont 
d'Arcole, Pont Notre-Dame, Pont au 
Change, Pont Neuf, Pont des Arts, Pont 
du Carrousel, and Pont Royal. Of these, 
the most notable is easily the Pont Neuf, 
from its greater length and more preten- 
tious architecture. On the embankment 
just below it, stands a fine statue of 
Henry the Fourth, sometimes called the 
Peoples' King. We remember him as 
Henry of Navarre, with the white plume 
in his helmet, who said that Paris was 
worth a mass. 

In the second illustration appears a 
nearer view of Pont au Change. It is 
evidently a work to be credited to the 
Empire, as shown by the " N " within 
the laurel wreath. Napoleon loved to set 
his seal and trademark upon all that he 
did ; but it should surely be permitted to 
the self-made man, that he boast just a 
little of his own handiwork. Perhaps the 
rest of us would boast more if we had 
more excuse for so doing ! 




London Bridge 



OLD BRIDGES OF TWO CITIES 




Westminster Bridge 



In the background lies the great prison 
of La Conciergerie, and hard by the 
Palais de Justice. Since the fall of the 
Bastile, the Conciergerie is the oldest 
prison in the city, and within its gloomy 
walls may he seen the dungeon where 
once was confined the brave but ill-fated 
Marie Antoinette, and thoughts of her 
bring back once more the " Tale of Two 
Cities," and we think of London, in her 
garb of fog, sitting beside Thames River, 
even as gay Paris sits beside the Seine. 

Of the many bridges that cross the 
Thames within the metropolitan area of 
London, the oldest of all is London 
Bridge, as shown in the illustration. Some 
think that the Britons had a bridge here 
long before the Christian Era ; but this 
is hardly probable, as Caesar marched 
his troops a long way around, in order to 
reach a ford, when he invaded the island 
in the year 55, B. C, as recorded in his 
Gallic Commentaries. The Roman his- 
torian, Dion Cassius, who lived and wrote 
in the third century, states that there 



was a bridge over the Thames when Clau- 
dias invaded the country in 43, A. D. 
He says that it was near the mouth of the 
river, and London is now fifty miles from 
the mouth ; but it is supposed that the 
mouth of the Thames extended up to 
London at that early period, and that the 
marsh lands have since been filled in by 
alluvial deposits, moving the mouth fifty 
miles out to sea. 

However, the task of building a bridge 
over a tide-water river nearly a thousand 
feet wide, with about twenty feet differ- 
ence between high and low water levels, 
was a task for Roman experts rather than 
for British savages j and it is more prob- 
able that the first London Bridge was built 
during the Roman occupation (43-449). 
The Romans were the greatest road-makers 
and bridge-builders that the world has 
ever seen ; they may be said to have 
originated and perfected the use of the 
arch. When the old bridge was torn up, 
its foundations were resting upon wooden 
piles, which were pulled up in order to 



2o6 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



deepen the bed of the river. Under them 
were found Roman coins, tiles and pot- 
tery, with brass medalhons of AureHus, 
Faustina and Commodus, They must in- 
dicate either the building of a new bridge, 
or the repair of an old one ; at least these 
timbers must have upheld a bridge at that 
place, upon the accession of these rulers 
to power. 

Whatever structure stood at this time, 
and during the Saxon occupation of later 
years, was washed away by a flood in the 
reign of William the Conqueror, and a 
new structure was rebuilt upon the old 
Roman foundations. This bridge stood 
from about 1097 until a stone structure 
took its place in 11 76. This bridge was 
the work of Peter of Colechurch. With 
many subsequent alterations, it stood un- 
til the early days of the nineteenth cen- 
tury. It originally consisted of twenty 
stone arches, and a drawbridge. It had 
a gate house at each end, and a chapel or 
crypt in the center, where the architect 
was buried in 1205. The present struc- 
ture, as shown in our picture, was built by 
Rennie, at a cost of between seven and 
eight million dollars. Its length is about 



nine hundred feet. It was first opened 
to the public in 1831. 

Westminster Bridge comes next to this 
one in point of age, but it was not built 
until 1750, which means that for at least 
seventeen hundred years, London bridge 
had been the only one that crossed the 
Thames within the city limits. The origi- 
nal Westminster structure was replaced, in 
1862, by the one represented in our next 
illustration. It is twice as wide as the 
old bridge, is twelve hundred feet long, 
and consists of seven iron arches, resting 
on stone piers, whose foundations descend 
thirty feet below the low-water mark. 

Blackfriars Bridge was opened to the 
public in 1769. When Shakespeare and 
his companions went to act at the Globe 
Theatre, instead of going around by Lon- 
don bridge, they used to take boat at 
Blackfriar Stairs, and land on the oppo- 
site shore, at the Paris Garden stairs 
on the Bankside. The new Blackfriars 
Bridge, shown in our illustration replaced 
the old one in 1869. It is thirteen hun- 
dred feet long, and has five iron arches. 

More recent than any of the others is 
the Tower Bridge, shown in the next cut, 




Blackfriars Bridge and St. Paul's 



OLD BRIDGES OF TWO CITIES 



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Tower Bridge 



with its level bridge high up, between 
the towers, and its drawbridge below. It 
is situated close beside the ''Pool," 
which is another name for the Port of 
London. A subway was located at this 
point for some years before a bridge was 
built. 

Contemporaneous with the opening of 
Blackfriars Bridge was the opening of the 
North Thames, or Victoria Embankment, 
as shown below. This was a project 
which involved a vast expense, but it is 
perhaps the greatest improvement ever 
made in London. The river, which had 
been too long neglected, was again ele- 
vated to its natural position as the chief 
ornament of London, as well as its cause 
for being, and its main source of prosper- 
ity. 

This North Embankment, with its ma- 
rine wall of large granite blocks facing the 
river, supports a spacious thoroughfare 
which forms one ot the finest promenades 
in London. It stretches from Blackfriars 
Bridge to Westminster. In its construc- 
tion, which cost the tidy sum of fifteen 



millions of dollars, some thirty-seven acres 
of waste land were reclaimed. Nineteen 
of these are occupied by carriage-drives 
and foot-paths, more than seven were 
conveyed to adjoining land-holders, and 
about eight were reserved for ornamental 
grounds. The expenses were defrayed 
largely by duties which the City corpora- 
tion levied upon coal and wine. The 
Albert Embankment upon the south side 
of the stream, was in process of comple- 
tion at the same time. It extends from 
Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, 
and includes about nine acres, which is 
now under St. Thomas' Hospital. The 
next year saw the beginning of the Chel- 
sea Embankment, built between Vauxhall 
Bridge and Chelsea Hospital. 

This reclaimed rather more than nine 
acres, which is now occupied by flower 
gardens, and by a roadway seventy feet 
in width. Of the three embankments 
the Victoria is perhaps the most beauti- 
ful, following, as it does, the gentle curve 
of the river, with Saint Paul's at one end, 
and the Houses of Parliament at the 



2o8 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



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Thames Embankment 



Other, and with Waterloo Bridge and the 
Somerset House half way. The embank- 
ment is one hundred feet wide, and lies, 
for the whole length, in sight of the 
Thames, with its crowded shipping, 
where the masts stand so thick that in 



the distance they present the appearance 
of a forest stripped of leaves and branches. 
In London even more truly than in Paris, 
we perceive that the river is the main 
artery, which conveys life-blood to the 
whole body politic of the capital. 



Poem by Julia Ward Howe 

Written for Congress of Religious Liberals 



Hail ! Mount of God ! whereon with reverent feet 
The messengers of many nations meet ; 
Diverse in feature, argument and creed, 
One in their errand, brothers in their need. 



So with one breath may fervent souls aspire , 
With one high purpose wait the ansM'ering fire ; 
Be this the prayer that other prayer controls, 
That hght divine may visit human souls. 



Not in unwisdom are the limits drawn 
That give far lands opposing dusk and dawn ; 
One sun makes bright the all-pervading air; 
One fostering spirit hovers everywhere. 



The worm that clothes the monarch spins no flaw ; 
The coral builder works by heavenly law; 
Who would to conscience rear a temple pure 
Must prove each stone and seal it sound and sure. 



Upon one steadfast base of truth w^e stand ; 
Love lifts her sheltering walls on either hand ; 
Arched o 'er our head is hope's transcendent 

dome, 
And in the Father's heart of hearts our home. 



Quebec in Winter 



By F. A. Mccormick 



To the ordinary resident of ' ' the 
States," Quebec in winter suggests 
the cold Inferno, or a Peary reHef 
expedition, and the person advocating 
such a journey, to be followed by a sojourn 
in this old French City for pleasure, would 
be considered more or less of an imbe- 
cile and not altogether a harmless one. 

Yet this is exactly what a Boston party 
did recently, and they have not only lived 
to tell the story, but have come back to 
spread the glad tidings that a visit to the 
city of the habitants, if that visit be made 
at the Chateau Frontenac, is one of great 
pleasure, the memory of which is to be 
highly treasured, and the visit itself re- 
peated as early and often as the occasion 
and pocket-book will permit. 

We arrived in time for luncheon, and 
after registering were shown to the dining- 
room at once. The first innovation was the 
presence, at the right of the entrance, of an 
immense table, on which were piled whole 
Saguenay River salmon, a baron and loin 
of beef, great hams, haunches of venison, 
bear hams, game pies, turkeys, and more 
roasted, boiled, and baked meats than 
would feed a regiment, the whole presided 
over by a chef in immaculate linen, with 
carving knife and fork poised ready to 
satisfy the swarming waiters' demands as 
soon as expressed. 

At the end of the dining-room, which al- 
though of generous dimensions, retains a 
general air of coziness, was a great fire- 
place in which burned a fire of good can- 
nel coal, adding indescribably to the at- 
mosphere of good feeling which seemed to 
pervade the entire hotel. 

Seated at our table, the soup, cream of 
French artichokes, — think of that, ye 
gourmet, — was served, and then calmly 
possessing himself of a fork that suggested 
Neptune's trident, a waiter, with a most 
preoccupied manner, transfixed a slice of 



bread, toasted it first on one side and 
then on the other at the open fire, and 
then, with a most engaging bow, presented 
it smoking hot and still on the fork to one 
of our party. 

The lunch menu was a perfect speci- 
men of what such a meal should be, com- 
bining the daintiest of French cooking, 
with the large, whole souled hospitality of 
an English country house of the early part, 
part of the nineteenth century. 

Leaving the dining-room with regret we: 
journey through the parlors, beautiful and. 
tasteful in every detail. How few hotel 
parlors can one recall that do not suggest, 
rudimentary leas of art of about the pe- 
riod of the stoR^ age, or else produce the: 
same effect upon the weary traveler as. 
that Sicilian air immortalized by John How- 
ard Payne. 

Yet here were roor is that were good to. 
sit in, good to walk about in, to gossip in, ta 
lounge in. The windows looked out on 
Dufferin Terrace, the lower town, and the 
great St. Lawrence. Here were pianos 
that it did not seem a crime to play 
upon. There were no attendants in sight, 
with accusing eyes to look reprovingly, if 
the latest book of Harrison Weir' s draw- 
ings was removed from the table, and to 
seize and ostentatiously replace it in ex- 
actly the same place it had occupied be- 
fore you had timidly taken it in hand. 

It was as if the stern, old Frontenac 
and his charming countess had welcomed 
you to their Chateau, and when, after a 
dinner that was a triumph of its kind, 
we returned to our bed rooms, and found 
that the chambermaid had carefully turned 
back the bed clothes, so as to expose the 
immaculate sheets, and arranged the night 
robes in their proper places, you forgot en- 
tirely that you had an account to settle at the 
office, and the idea that you were a guest 
at a great country house possessed you. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Good housekeeping was apparent at 
every turn, even the toboggan sUde on 
Dufferin Terrace, built and maintained for 
the convenience of the hotel guests, was 
being swept and watered in the early 
morning when we looked out of our win- 
dows. 

Cold it undeniably was, a matter of 
ten degrees below zero, but when we 
emerged into the bright sunlight, and 
four of us ensconced ourselves in a low 
comfortable sleigh, drawn by a horse 
whose clean limbs, deep chest and bright 
eyes showed the thoroughbred in him, 
we did not mind it. Possibly the great 
coats of fur, loaned by the most pohte 
of salesmen in what claims, and certainly 
looks to be, the biggest fur store in the 
world may have had something to do with it. 

The driver was an encyclopedia so far 
as local history was concerned. He drove 
us to the plains of Abraham where Wolfe 
defeated Montcalm, showed us the old 
monument and the new, commemorating 
the event, the house where Montcalm 
breathed his last, the citadel, the St. 
John's gate, 1683, the place where our 
own brave General Montgomery attempted 
to scale the heights, the breakneck stairs, 
the water front batteries, composed of old 
cannon and mortars mounted on the same 
style ©f carriage that Montcalm set them on. 
He drove us through the narrowest street 
open for the passage of vehicles on the 
continent, all the while keeping up a run- 
ning stream of comment. Then came the 
old market place, where the habitants from 
the outlying towns bring their produce in 
all sorts of conveyances, and drawn by all 
sorts of animals from dogs to horses. 

The spectacle of a fat man habitant 
seated on a pile of fire wood, loaded on a 
sled drawn by two huge dogs of the great 
Dane type, which drew him and the load 
at a gallop around corners and down the 
almost perpendicular streets leading from 
the upper to the lower town, seemingly at 
the imminent risk of spilhng the whole, 
the man reviling both animals in stento- 
rian tones the while, was well worth a visit 
in itself 



But the worst was yet to come. Our 
encyclopedian Jehu drew up at the hotel 
entrance in the great courtyard in time 
for lunch. 

* * How much "^do we owe you ? ' ' 

*'One dollar an hour. You have been 
out three hours." 

< ' For each of us, of course. ' ' 

"No, for the party. " 

And we stood speechless, while the 
ubiquitous carriage agent of the hotel 
arranged the matter, and with a "will 
charge it to your rooms, ' ' ushered us into 
the warmth and luxury of the hotel office. 

We recovered in time to do justice to 
the sumptuous lunch, and found a fresh 
source for wonderment at the magnificent 
service. Never, and members of our 
party have sat in some of the grandest 
dining-rooms of two continents, had we 
seen a head waiter with such complete 
control of his subordinates, and never had 
we seen subordinates so well trained. 
Were the dishes to be removed and an- 
other course served, the waiters from 
adjoining tables lent a willing hand. Did 
Monsieur, the head waiter, detect the 
slightest infraction of his code, an almost 
imperceptible movement of his pencil, and 
the culprit looked as if he had been detected 
in the act of robbing the parish poor box. 

There was a grand ball at the Chateau 
that evening and we met the best people 
of the city there, charming in their unaf- 
fected, gentle courtesy and hospitality. 

Then there was the visit to our friend, 
the furrier, where the most courteous of 
saleswomen tells us more about furs than 
any of us ever expected to know, exhib- 
iting Russian sables at ^1500 for a muff of 
ordinary size, silver fox neck pieces at 
^500, but apparently always having in 
mind the tradition of the house, 

"Never solicit a visitor to purchase." 

All this to us fresh from the enterprising 
salespeople of our own great cities was 
very refreshing. 

There was the visit to the town house, 
occupied by the Duke of Kent, father of 
Queen Victoria, when he was Governor 
General of the Dominion. Here antiques 



THE CHRISTMAS PUDDING 



211 



and relics of the Colonial period were on 
exhibition, and we were served with after- 
noon tea and made to feel at home in the 
same gentle courteous manner. 

There was the visit to the Duke' s coun- 
try house, where winter sports held high 
carnival, and where the marvelous Mont- 
morency Falls are located. And there 
ivas the visit to the shrine ot St. Anne de 
Beaupre, conveniently reached by what 
seemed as good a trolly system as any 
we had ever had the good fortune to pat- 
ronize. 

The Shrine has been described so often 



that litde need be said of it, but the great 
pile of crutches, trusses, and votive offer- 
ings of all kinds, made by the beneficiaries 
of the good saint's mercies, are a touching 
example of the twentieth century faith that 
can remove mountains. 

With our experience in mind, a visit to 
the old Gibraltar of the new world is an 
inspiration ; and it is, indeed, a doubting 
Thomas who would let the matter of tem- 
perature deter him from a visit to the 
quaint old town, and the homelike hos- 
pitahty of one of America's greatest 
hostelries. 



The Christmas Pudding 



By KATE GANNETT WELLS 



THE flavor of the Christmas pud- 
ding is that of association. It is 
compounded of memories, pleasant 
and othenvise, and of the universal signifi- 
cance of the day. Yet the time was, and 
not so long ago, when a Christmas pud- 
ding was deemed by many a Puritanical 
mind as an offering to Baal, a species of 
unrighteous symbolism, a kind of tempo- 
ral compromise with spiritual truth and a 
graft with one' s conscience, that if it will 
let one eat the pudding, she will not do 
anything else wicked. It was too deli- 
cious to be foregone ; known under an- 
other name it might not savor of ritual- 
ism, creed or church authority, still re- 
maining as an incentive to advancing cul- 
inary skill ; and thus the Enghsh Christ- 
mas pudding became the New England 
Thanksgiving dish and took its place 
along with pumpkin pie, until a sense of 
humor and of liberaHsm reinstated it as 
preeminently a Christmas thank offering 
by the family to the Christian church and 
to social life. 

Yet I well remember many years ago 
jeturning to a Congregational home, after 



a Christmas dinner in a church house- 
hold, and that, when I spoke of the pud- 
ding, my friend answered, with a sad, 
tremulous earnestness in voice and man- 
ner, " Could n't they have been contented 
with mince pie?" On such small points 
are prejudices or convictions founded. 

Now that Christmas has widened in its 
practical scope into a day of tumultuous 
giving, the pudding is relegated to being 
a side issue in its observance. It can be 
concocted at any time. It may be afire 
with brandy, in defiance of prohibition, or 
float a tiny flag of the stars and stripes as 
indicative of the true democracy, which 
Pasteur defines as that "which permits 
each individual to put forth his maximum 
of effort. ' ' 

That 's why mothers love the Christmas 
pudding. It is their maximum of effort. 
It is the dollar, not spent in personal 
adornment, for the sake of buying citron 
and suet for the children's feast. It is 
the rising early to mix it, that its special 
preparation may not interfere with the 
regular daily work. It is the pleasure of 
economy that rejoices when enough is 



212 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



left over for the next day' s dinner. Alas ! 
organizations in specialities of labor and 
of purchase of food are depriving mothers 
of the joy of stoning the raisins and stir- 
ring the pudding with their own hands; 
all the more joy, if the hands are rheu- 
matic, for now bake-shops provide the 
ready-made pudding. It saves time, per- 
haps expense. It may be more easily di- 
gested, but never will it taste the same as 
if one's own mother had made it for her 
children. The personal element of time 
and effort and affection is what makes it 
so good to us all. I never see solitary 
women buying a little pudding that I do 
not think how pleasant it is to be set in 
famihes. One of the bravest women I 
know, always mixes and boils on her tiny 
gas stove her pudding of a teacup's 
measure, and then eats it in her hall bed- 
room, (her sole abode), in grateful mem- 
ory of the home pleasures, no longer hers. 

But when the pudding is deemed an 
essential to be had at any cost, it becomes 
an unauthorized extravagance and loses 
its aroma, lor the meaning of any Christ- 
mas symbol is to be rendered in terms of 
spirit and not of matter. 

After all, is not the chief source of 
pleasure in the pudding found in the fact 
that the making of it is not obligatory, not 
nearly as compulsory as the cooking of a 
turkey, which patriotism commands ? Nor 
has the pudding a hygienic significance, 
for it distinctly, like cereals and their 
healthful ilk, is not good for one's diges- 
tion. It would be ethical to give it up, 
which is, contrariwise, a strong reason 
for choosing the pleasure of eating once 
a year what we should not. It is the 
hygienically forbidden, but self-permitted 
fun that lets us now and then have the 
release of a moral holiday, while in point 
of fact the associations connected with the 
pudding redeem it from gastric harmful- 
ness. 

Perhaps the early Christians never knew 
the delights of the pudding, yet even in 
the catacombs, presumably, there was some 
apology for a feast on Christmas, until in 
mediaeval times its reign was fully inaugu- 



rated. It is the birthday factor in the 
pudding that spices it, the birth of Christ, 
without whose hfe our own would be most 
miserable ; the birth of gratitude for what 
was, is, and ever will be, and the brith 
of the practice of giving gifts and, — our- 
selves ; though such giving, disassociated 
from the Christmas idea, is as ancient and 
as primaeval as the world itself. Giving is 
always active, receiving is usually passive ;. 
one has to be very tired to be content 
with only the latter. 

Thus the pudding is dear to our hearts 
as a symbol. Like the Passover bread, the 
EngHsh hot-cross buns, the burial grain 
and rice, even our Washington pie, it 
typifies spiritual values, as still we seek to- 
find in it, also, Ruskin's three characteris- 
tics of cookery : " French art, Enghsk 
thoroughness and Arabian hospitality." 
Our pudding to relish must be com- 
pounded of these unseen but felt excel- 
lencies. Often must we force ourselves 
to appear well pleased with the big slice 
laid upon our plate, though inwardly re- 
belling at the prospect before us, and 
mournfully thinking of the slow practice 
of Fletcherism. But as the children 
loved the Settlement worker, because, as 
one of them said, ' ' she looked as though 
she did not see the holes in my shoes, 
so do we apply ourselves vigorously to 
our Christmas repast, while our hostess, 
who knows the pudding is not as good as 
it should be, is grateful that apparently 
we do not notice the discrepancy between. 
reaHty and the receipt. 

Alas ! again for the homesickness in- 
spired by the Christmas pudding. " It 's 
just Herself, I 'm longing for. Herself 
and no other. Herself ! Oh, me mother, 
mother, " moaned the little Irish wife 
across the seas from Kerrydown ! And so 
it is with us, as the rich perfume of the 
pudding carries us back to childhood 
days, when our mother made the pudding, 
the mother who has left us to make it 
alone for our children, in turn. No other 
dish has such a wealth of association. 
Boston's baked beans or Southern corn 
cakes are provincial compared with this 



BRIDGET'S BROTH 



213 



universal yearly pudding. 

How to make it ? Don't make a bur- 
den of it, a sacrificial duty, and it will 
make itself. Interpret the receipt of the 
-cook book, in measures of love and joy, 
and then the weight of its spiritual im- 
port will never make the dish heavy. 

May each of us have one, no matter 



how tiny, a cube of suet, a single raisin, 
a sprinkle of cloves, — and enjoy it in 
hope of all there is to come, in memory of 
those who once made our Christmas 
merry, and in recognition of the gracious 
need for filling the present with service 
fjr others, somehow, somewhere, all the 
time. 



Bridget's Broth 



By MRS, KATE TANNATT WOODS 



IT was nine o'clock in the morning, and 
the doctor had paid an early visit to his 
patient, Mrs. Appleton, leaving instruc- 
tions with her faithful attendant, Bridget. 

"She is past the danger line now, Biddy, 
so feed her up ; we must make her take nour- 
ishment whether she cares for it or not." 

''What will I be giving her doctor, she 
jist ates like a bird at the best of times? " 

''Try a good, strong, lamb broth, and 
^ive her two raw eggs per day; now feed her 
up, and we will soon have her out again." 

"Indade, and I will, doctor; it do seem 
-as if the whole house was gone with her so 
still." 

"Well, Biddy, it all depends on you 
now, if you do not feed her well, I shall 
have to send in one of my trained nurses, 
and you know how much you like them, eh, 
Biddy?" 

The doctor closed the front door softly, 
:and went out laughing. Biddy was a good 
friend of his, but he loved to tease her a 
bit. 

As he got into his carriage, he recalled 
with much amusement Biddy's indignation 
some two years since, when Mrs. Appleton 
was stricken suddenly with an acute attack, 
and he had installed a trained nurse. 

Now, there are trained nurses <2;^^ trained 
nurses, as every one knows. The dear, 
gentle, faithful souls, who get into our hearts 
as well as our homes. 



Biddy could never forget that experience. 
The first act of the nurse was to forbid Brid- 
get to enter the room. The patient, although 
speechless and suffering, longed- for her 
ever devoted helper, and Biddy was heart 
broken. 

This time, with young Harold away at 
school and Bridget the sole comforter of 
his widowed mother, Bridget was to reign 
supreme. 

Why not pray ? Had she not lived with 
the dear lady in her father' s home from the 
time Miss Bessie first entered a kindergar- 
ten, and then did she not prepare the new 
home for the bride ? Who but Biddy knew 
the agony of those dreary days of early 
widowhood, and who could read the face 
so dear to her as the one who knew her 
best? 

It was a sweet, old story of mistress and 
maid, and the doctor well knew how de- 
pendent his frail patient was upon the great- 
hearted Irish woman, who had no other 
home and cared for none. 

When the doctor's carriage was out of 
sight, Biddy crept softly up stairs to find 
her charge resting with closed eyes. ' ' Dear 
heart of her," said Biddy softly, " she do 
be making the sign of the cross with her 
white hands, and it 's the best broth in the 
town I ' 11 be making for her. ' ' 

Down stairs went Biddy, and soon she 
was telephoning for supplies. 



214 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



That duty over, she went into her well- 
ordered kitchen, and, while making neces- 
sary preparations for the broth, talked as 
was her custom, to herself. ''The doctor 
was laughing, he was, but praise be the 
saints, there will be no more sticking of 
that nasty little thermometer in her mouth, 
and no more messes for her to eat, and she 
that dainty. I do be coaxing her all the 
while. Oh, but the airs of her made me so 
angry that I was doing penance for it. 
'Bridget,' sez she: — 'I want some steak 
for my breakfast, at eight o'clock,' sez she, 
' and do you be cutting it an inch thick, 
and don' t put it on the broiler until I give 
the word, for I must have it smoking hot. ' 

"Another time she came down, and sez 
she: — ' Bridget, I don't like your omlettes, 
or the way you cook eggs,' sez she; ' I will 
have to show you how I was taught in the 
diet kitchen of the hospital.' 

" 'All right mum,' sez I; 'my cooking 
pleases the one who pays me for it, and 
that is the chief concern of Bridget O' Con- 
nor.' 

"Oh, the way she would come down 
ordering me around, was enough to put me 
in a fever. I do pride meself that my range 
and my kitchen is as neat as any in the city, 
and it's the dear doctor, himself, who has 
said so many 's the time; but the high and 
mighty nurse, down she came, and sez: — 
'Bridget, you do need some lessons in san- 
itary science, indeed you do. ' 

" ' In what, Miss ?' sez I. " Which was 
wicked of me, for the blessed missus had 
told me all about it, and was very particular 
herself; why not, when she is a director of 
a cooking school, but I was stupid on pur- 
pose, Heaven forgive me ! 

" ' Sanitary or domestic science, ' sez she, 
in her proud way, wid the head of her up 
in the air. 

' ' ' And what is it like. Miss ? ' sez I, ' do 
you boil it, or cook it in the oven ? We 
never eat fried meats here. ' 

" 'Bless me,' sez she, 'what dense igno- 
rance one finds even in good families. You 
see, Bridget,' she went on, 'Mrs. Appleton 
is never very strong, and you should know 
what to do for her. ' 



" 'Yes, Miss,' sez I, 'seeing that I have 
done for her since she first put on short 
frocks, mebbe I might learn, if she asks it.' 

"Well, that woman turned our house 
upside down, and she kept me that worried 
that I lost ten pounds of flesh, which I 
might well spare, but I lost my sleep, whicK 
was worse. 

"At last she went. The doctor needed 
her somewhere else; and I clapped the two 
hands of me 'till they ached, when she 
went out of the door, and the dear missus, 
she said 'Amen,' as hearty as the Method^ 
man who lives next door. 

"That's why there is no trained nurse 
this time. A good, strong broth is it; well 
the dear lady shall have it as quick as I can 
make it, for this morning, when she said to 
the doctor: 'Let no one take care of me 
but Biddy, doctor, for she knows just what 
to do,' I was happy. 

" 'All right,' sez the doctor, and I was 
that proud I wanted to hug my poor dear,, 
and the doctor, too, indiscriminate like." 

All day Biddy trotted back and forth 
wearing her felt sHppers, and the invalid 
was happy, knowing how pleased her kind 
servitor was. 

Down in the kitchen the "strong broth" 
was being made, not according to any for- 
mula of the hospital diet kitchen, but as. 
Biddy pleased, and her mistress liked ta 
have it done. 

At last it was ready; and Biddy prepared 
a tray on which she placed two well-browned 
crackers, a pretty china bowl, a few flowers, 
in a tiny vase, and some glossy damask 
napkins. 

Love had taught Biddy some things 
which were beyond the ken of many blessed 
with a more liberal education. She knew 
that the best dish in the world would never 
tempt Mrs. Bessie unless it was served in a. 
dainty manner. She had learned, also, 
never to cook the rice in the broth, but to- 
add it after it was thoroughly cooked. The 
broth was skimmed and seasoned, and 
Bridget surveyed her work with great satis- 
faction. But Fate, the rascal, was on the 
alert to disturb Biddy's confidence. 

Just as Biddy mounted the stairs, the 



BRIDGET'S BROTH 



215 



front door bell rang sharply, and a sudden 
movement caused one of the felt slippers to 
slip on the smooth, waxed floor, and away 
went Biddy, tray, broth, flowers, dishes 
and all, clattering down to the room below. 
Even one lamp chimney or one small plate 
can make not only a terrible noise, but with 
fiendish glee they are capable of producing 
endless bits and pieces, to aggravate the 
unfortunate victim of the break. 

The patient nearly sprang from her bed, 
as the crash was heard. The silence at last 
became unbearable, and she called in anx- 
ious tones : — " Oh, Biddy, are you hurt ? ' ' 
No answer. 

^' Bridget, do tell me, are you injured, 
have you broken a leg or anything but 
dishes?" 

Still silence down below. 
It was too much for poor Mrs. Appleton, 
whose mind pictured a dozen evils; and in 
spite of bandages, anti-phlogistine and hot 
water bags, she sprang from her bed and 
crept into the hall. 

The sight which met her eyes as she 
gazed over the banisters into the living 
room, was ludicrous beyond words. 

The newel post was decorated with a 
napkin, from which dripped a slow stream 
of broth, the floor was spattered with rice, 
far too moist for a bridal party ; and bits of 
china were to be seen here and there. 

In the middle of an oriental rug, sat 
Biddy bolt upright, rubbing her eyes with 
a fat, broth-bathed hand. 

She had not heard her mistress ; and was 
simply dazed by the accident. ''Oh, the 
likes of it," she murmured, half to herself; 
" and the poor dear needing nourishment. " 
A voice from above Interrupted her: 
"Bridget, tell meat once, have you broken 
any bones ; if you do not tell me I shall 
come down. ' ' 

Looking up, Biddy saw the white face of 
her patient, and in an instant, she forgot 
herself and her keen disappointment, and 
before there was time to remonstrate, 



Mrs. Appleton was hurried into bed and 
nearly 'smothered with blankets. 

"Oh, my dear, my poor dear," said 
Biddy, "it's getting a death cold you'll 
be, and all for that old bell-ringing." 

" I' mall right now, Biddy ; and you must 
excuse me for laughing, but you did look 
so droll sitting there, and — ' ' 

" Shure I was that mad," said Biddy, 
' ' I lost me voice, and me breaking that 
pretty bowl you brought from France ; and 
the strong broth wasted and me a sight to 
behold." 

Then both mistress and maid began to 
laugh, and the merry laughter increased the 
circulation, which was the very thing the 
doctor wanted to do, and Bridget was 
happy when she remembered that more 
strong broth could be had in her kitchen, 
and no one was hurt. 

Many times during the day Mrs. Apple- 
ton found herself laughing over the mishap, 
as she thought of Biddy's picture on the 
oriental rug. 

' ' What a snap shot Harold would have 
made of it," she said to herself, and then 
she laughed again. 

The next morning, the doctor found his 
patient much better, and the temperature 
nearly normal. 

" Biddy," he said, " did you make the 
strong broth ? " 

" Indeed and I did, doctor." 
"And did Mrs. Appleton relish it." 
"Very much," said that lady, and then 
began to laugh again. The doctor insisted 
on hearing the story, and he too, laughed 
merrily with them. 

As he said good mormng, he could not 
refrain from teasing his friend, Bridget, 
and remarked with a twinkle in his hand- 
some eyes : " Biddy, the next time I order 
strong broth just make it strong enough to 
get over the stairs. ' ' 

Mrs. Appleton recovered rapidly, and 
insists upon it that a ''merry heart doeth 
like mediciyie. ' ' 



The House That Was to Make People 

Happy 

By FRANCES CAMPBELL SPARHA WK 



IT stood on a rise of ground scarcely 
high enough to be called a hill, yet 
giving view of grassy fields with great 
elms and beeches among the maples, and 
in the distance a grove of pines where 
it was delightful to rest on a summer's 
day and watch the windings of the river 
in the valley below. It was a house with 
all the stateliness of age without its de- 
crepitude, and its modern comforts added 
to its ancient dignity, its grounds spacious 
and well cared for made it beautiful. 

Miriam Leslie, as she drove away from 
the house, turned and looked back at it 
lovingly. She was so glad that she was 
leaving it only for a visit and was to come 
l)ack; for she loved it. It had been her 
-home long before it had come to be her 
^own possession. Her aunt had willed it 
to her, and with it had given her money 
'enough to live in it handsomely. But the 
aunt had been an unhappy woman ; the 
ihouse was full of sad memories to her, 
and she had affixed to her property in 
passing it to her niece the condition that 
in the house she should make people 
happy. That she was to have her gay 
young friends there was to be expected. 
-But she was also to have those who needed 
cheer and comfort and to make them 
ihappy so far as these could do it. 

Miriam Leslie entered wiUingly into the 
wishes of her aunt; for Miriam, too, had 
known sorrow; moreover, she had the 
spirit of helpfulness. 

It was three months since her aunt left 
her. There had been much to do ; and 
for several weeks she had been absent with 
a friend who needed her. She had not 
yet invited her first guest to the house 
that was now her own. She wondered 
as she drove off that morning who it 
would be ? She was going to visit distant 



relatives, who had urgently invited her. 
Besides desiring to see them, she wanted 
a few days in the city; and for this she 
must go soon; their house would be 
closed in a little while; summer was com- 
ing. Perhaps one of this family would be 
her first guest; who could tell ? 

"Let me have a peep at it, Helen. 
Isn't it lovely?" cried Hattie Windsor, 
seizing upon the gown that the little seam- 
stress was at work upon and holding it up 
against herself so that the soft puffs and 
plaitings lay around her fair young throat, 
and the long train of gauzy sheen floated 
out behind her. " Is it becoming to me ? ' ' 
she asked, with a glance into the long 
mirror. "Tell me, Helen," she insisted 
as the seamstress, herself scarcely more 
than a girl, reached out her hand for the 
gown. 

"Yes, Miss Windsor, very becoming. 
But you must let me have it to finish; it 
will take the rest of the day, working hard. " 

" Oh, to be sure, it must be finished; 
you shall have it in a minute," answered 
the other still pirouetting through the 
room and trying the effect of her new 
finery. "I shall look well in it, I do 
beheve," she said. " It 's for Miss Mor- 
ris' ball, you know. Don' t you wish you 
were going, Helen?" she went on with a 
laugh at the bare suggestion. 

"Do let me have it now, please," 
pleaded the seamstress. 

' ' Have what ? ' ' teased the other. " The 
invitation to the ball? Really, you know, 
I can't do it. Oh, it's the gown you 
mean. Here it is, then, as soon as you 
tell me if you would n' t like to go to the ball 
yourself? " 

"No," returned Helen. And reach- 
ing out she possessed herself of the un- 



THE HOUSE THAT WAS TO MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY 



217 



iinished work and began sewing upon it 
again immediately. 

''Come on, Miriam dear," cried Hat- 
tie, looking back as she skipped out of the 
Toom. ''I'll show you the emeralds 
Uncle Robert gave me. ' ' 

"Yes, in a minute," answered Miss 
Leslie, turning her eyes again upon her 
l)ook. But as soon as her young hostess 
had quitted the room, they returned to 
their former occupation of watching the 
little seamstress. Miss Leslie was sure 
that she had seen tears in the eyes Helen 
lifted to Miss Windsor. The girl had 
dropped her glance instantly lest these 
should be seen; and the hand that had 
brushed them away, for fear that they 
should blur her sight and stain her work, 
liad done so in haste and by stealth. The 
girl was not crying from foolish desire 
ior parties. Miss Leslie was very sure. 

"Poor little thing !" she said to her- 
self. For another minute she watched 
the stitches set with a haste that would not 
let the stitcher's hand tremble, but had 
no interest in the beauty of the material 
she was at work upon. Then she rose and 
went to Helen. 

"My dear," she said with a gentle 
hand upon her shoulder, "something 
troubles you. You see, I know it, be- 
cause I have had much trouble myself. ' ' 

"Oh, have you?" asked Helen, her 
self-control almost broken down by the 
other's sympathy. 

"Can I help you at all?" went on 
Miss LesHe. ' ' Are you ill ? " 

"Oh, no, no ! It 's not I ; that would 
be nothing. But my mother," — she 
caught her breath — "my mother is so ill, 
and it is so hard to leave her. ' ' 

" But must you leave her ? Somebody 
else can do this work, but nobody — ' ' 

"It's not that," broke out Helen. 
"But I finish my week today, and Mrs. 
Windsor will pay me ; and I must have 
the money for medicine and things for 
my mother — that ' s why I came this 
morning. " ■ 

"And is your mother all alone? " 

'^ Except when a neighbor looks in once 



in a while to see her; but that is not like 
my being there. ' ' 

" I should say not;' ' returned Miss Les- 
lie. " Mothers are very precious pos- 
sessions, my dear. Nobody but I could 
do for mine. No — mine is not here now, 
she has gone to the other world," she ad- 
ded, in answer to the question in the girl's 
eyes. "But all mothers are dear to me, 
for her sake. ' ' 

" Oh, what shall I do, if mine goes ; " 
sobbed Helen. But in a moment she re- 
covered herself. " I mustn't even think 
of it. Miss Leslie," she said; "because 
I have so much to do on this gown and I 
must finish it tonight ; I must get things 
for my mother's needs. You are so kind 
and I thank you so much for thinking 
about me at all," she went on, with an 
anxious look and an attempt at a smile 
which touched her watcher deeply. ' ' You 
understand. Miss LesHe ? " 

"Yes, I understand perfectly. But, 
courage. Your mother will be spared to 
you, many years yet, I trust. They would 
all be interested in you here, if they no- 
ticed," she added. 

"All the difference is in the noticing ! " 
retorted the girl. 

And this, time the misty rairibow of a 
smile really shone through her tears. 

With a few more words of comfort Miss 
LesHe left her. But pathetic eyes and 
tremulous lips some what obscured Mir- 
iam's view of Hattie Windsor's really fine 
emeralds. 

"It was a peculiar will," said Mrs. 
Windsor to her intimate friend, Mrs. Bel- 
ton. " Anybody would have rejoiced in 
that beautiful house and all that money. 
And as to the conditions — pshaw ! I 
should take it for granted that everybody 
would be happy to go there anyway, and 
not worry myself further. Miriam, how- 
ever, has- an old-tashioned New England 
conscience ; she is so anxious about car- 
rying out these conditions in the spirit 
her aunt meant that I'm not sure she 
won't fail by trying. But it 's in fine with 
the old proverb — 'it's the first step that 



2l8 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



costs' — it's the first visitor that I think 
will really matter with her ; after that she 
will get over her nervousness and look at 
the matter just as other people would. 
And I think," continued Mrs Windsor, 
smiHng at her friend and dropping her 
voice with caution, "I think, my dear, 
that in a day or two we shall settle that 
lor her, and all the more because she 
does n' t suspect it. ' ' 

"To be sure, you're very clever," re- 
torted her listener. ''It's Hattie. ' ' 

''Yes, it's Hattie," returned Mrs. 
Windsor, nodding with the emphasis of a 
foregone conclusion. ' ' And who could 
be happier in any one's house than that 
dear child with her perpetual fund of joy- 
ousness? So gay and light-hearted! It 
does us all good just to look at her." 

"But she doesn't need to be made 
happy ; she is that already and, I sup- 
pose, it's ihQ making one happy that Miss 
LesUe wants," said Mrs. Belton. 

A cloud of wrath settled for a moment 
on Mrs. Windsor's brow. "Hattie will 
need a great deal of making happy, I can 
tell you," she cried, "if she doesn't 
get that invitation! She is just ^ound to 
be Miriam's first guest. And I never 
knew her balked when she had set her 
heart upon a thing. ' ' 

"Well, there must come a first time, 
you know," prophesied the listener. "But 
let us hope it won't comp now," she ad- 
ded lightly, and passed to other matters. 

Three days had gone by and Helen 
Stone had not left her mother, who was 
worse. That morning she was suffering 
greatly, and to the daughter's inexperi- 
ence was alarmingly ill. The girl was do- 
ing her best for her and struggling to keep 
herself calm, when there came a knock at 
the door of the room in the city house 
which Helen and her mother occupied. It 
must be the doctor. 

But there on the threshold stood Mi- 
riam. Her quick glance took note of the 
tears in the girl's eyes and of the knitted 
brow and suffering attitude of the figure 
upon the bed. 



"Let me help you, my dear," she said,, 
coming in as if it were her own home. I 
have had so much to do with illness, I 
really know a great deal about it. And 
going up to the bed, at her touch the pil- 
lows fell into an easier angle and the bed- 
clothes smoothed themselves into comfort. 
The hot- water bag, please," she said ; 
" her feet are cold. ' ' But this had given 
out, and Miriam understood why it had 
not been replaced. "Put the tea-kettle 
on your gas stove, my dear, and I '11 be 
back directly," she said, and went out. 

She returned with her arms full of 
needs and comforts; and, in answer to 
Helen's look of gratitude and embarrass- 
ment, nodded brightly. "Your mother 
first," she said. "And then we '11 make 
it all right ; you shall do some sewing for 
me." 

By deft touches and gentle words she 
soothed the sufferer into comfort. '* I 
commend the new nurse," said the doc- 
tor. Then, taking leave, Miriam waited 
outside, and questioned him. Yes, Mrs. 
Stone might recover, but he did not think 
she would, the conditions were unfavora- 
ble. She needed rest and luxury for a 
time, at least; and where was she to get 
them? "Not an uncommon case, I 
imagine," he said. "Probably the hus- 
band lived well and left nothing to his 
family. And the daughter is a nice little 
girl," he added, as if commending her to 
his listener. "We, doctors, see a good 
deal more sometimes than we want to see. ' ' 
And he drove off wondering if this stranger 
were a mascot to his patient . 

The following day the patient was more 
comfortable and Miriam listened to her 
with delight. Her voice was music, her 
accent faultless, and both in what she said 
and what she did not say, in thanking her 
guest, her instincts were true. Helen with 
artless confidence spoke of their struggles 
and her longing to earn enough to give her 
mother the needed rest and change. 

' ' You see, I sew instead of trying to | 
teach the Httle I know," she explained, j 
with no touch of complaint in her voice, ! 
" because people are so apt not to want to j 



LIFE'S MIRROR 



219 



take lessons ; but they are always certain 
to be needing clothes. So now that I am 
doing finely, mamma must get well soon. ' ' 

' ' Yes, ' ' said Miss Leslie, ' ' your mother 
ought to be quite well very soon. Let us 
see what we can do to make her so. Would 
that make you happy ? ' ' 

Helen laughed out. "Why, the very 
thought of it makes me happy ! ' ' 

" That is what I must have. And now, 
listen." 

Miriam told of her pleasant home and 
how the place had been given to her. ' ' I 
want to carry out my aunt's wishes exact- 
ly," she said; ''and I must be sure that I 
shall be able to make my guests — espec- 
ially my first guests, as you will be — hap- 
py. Therefore you will both be doing me 
a favor by becoming my guests for a month 
at Hillside." 

"Oh! " cried Helen, her eyes dancing. 



her cheeks flushing, "how lovely that 
would be ! How kind you are, Miss 
Leshe. But — " She looked at her 
mother. 

"You are right, Helen; it would be too 
much. But Miss Leslie is very, very 
kind." The speaker's voice trembled. 

Miriam faced her. "Then you are 
willing to stand between your daughter 
and her happiness?" she asked. "I say 
nothing of my own, for your coming 
would be a real happiness to me. But 
you don't love Helen enough to let her 
take God's blessing of your health, as I 
believe it would be, because the hand He 
sends it by is strange to you ? " 

A silence. Helen's beautiful, dark 
eyes gazed into her mother's, puzzling 
Miriam with a hint of familiarity in their 
color and setting. 

(71? be continued.) 



Life's Mirror' 

By MADELINE S, BRIDGES 

There are loyal hearts, there are spirits brave, 
There are souls that are pure and true ; 
Then give to the world the best you have. 
And the best will come back to you. 

Give love, and love to your life will flow, 
A strength in your utmost need ; 
Have faith and a score of hearts will show 
Their faith in your word and deed. 

Give truth, and your gift will be paid in kind. 
And honor will honor meet ; 
And a smile that is sweet will surely find 
A smile that is just as sweet. 



For life is the mirror of king and slave, 
'Tis just what we are and do ; 
Then give to the world the best you have, 
And the best will come back to you. 



Told Through the Mail 

By MYRA WILLIAMS JARRELL 
Part II 



MiLTONVILLE, SePT. 4, I907. 

Dear Girl: 

A grand surprise came to me this morn- 
ing. Even now the surprise is in the 
Mtchen enveloped in my big kitchen 
apron trying to determine how to cook a 
steak. 

But I am getting ahead. This morn- 
ing, while the doctor was making his call, 
a hack drove up, and out stepped Mabel, 
stunning as usual, and began giving the 
hackman orders regarding the disposition 
of her trunk. 

I ran to the front door, brandishing my 
dish cloth, which I was clutching when 
the doctor came, and had not yet rehn- 
quished. "Go away," I screamed, 
'f Did n't you get Billy' s message, saying 
baby had the scarlet fever ? ' ' 

Straight up the walk came that reckless 
girl, as though she were stone deaf, smil- 
ing like an angel of light. "Just bring it 
in this door," she said to the hackman. 

I stood in a trance while she paid and 
dismissed him, and then she answered my 
question, first kissing me. "Why, of course 
I got Billy's telegram. That 's why I am 
here." She began divesting herself of 
her gloves, as she started toward the 
stairway, asking, " Is she up here ? " 

Like one in a dream I followed her, 
and almost forgot to introduce her to Dr. 
Howard, who rose when she came in, 
and regarded her with that helpless stare 
which she inspires in men. She barely 
recognized the introduction, but flew to 
the bed, and scarlet fever, or no scarlet 
fever, kissed the baby on her cheeks and 
forehead. Of course the baby adored 
her instantly, — they always do. 

The doctor's deep voice broke into 
their Httle talk-fest, as he said, "Pardon 
me, I had not finished taking the fciaby's 



temperature," then in his most profes- 
sional style he picked up the thermome- 
ter, which the baby had dropped when 
Mabel sailed in, and inserted it under her 
tongue. 

' ' Poor baby, ' ' Mabel cooed, ' ' has to sit 
and take anything anybody says to her, 
and can' t talk back. ' ' 

The doctor glared at her, but Barbara ' 
sat like a sphinx, for a series of ailments, 
from diphtheria to pneumonia, have al- 
ready fallen to her share, and young as 
she is, she knows what is expected of her, 
when that glass thing is stuck under her 
tongue. 

When Mabel saw that it annoyed the 
doctor she kept it up. And I think he 
sighed a sigh of genuine relief, when he 
had finished, had given me a few general 
directions, and with a stiff bow to Mabel, 
had left the room. 

After his departure Mabel burst into a 
neal of laughter, and proceeded to mimic 
him, to the baby's great delight. Then, 
"Does he really take himself so seri- 
ously?" she asked me. 

At that I told her about him. It was 
probably the only bit of gossip I had 
heard in the town. He had been a poor- 
farm product, with parents too quarrel- 
some to live together, and too worthless 
to work more than was absolutely neces- 
sary. The only thing they had ever 
agreed upon, was to part, and to dispose 
of the incumbrance, as neither one; wanted 
him. 

So the boy had been sent to the poor 
farm. He had run away from there, 
when he was sixteen, had hired out to a 
farmer, and had worked and saved till he 
was twenty-five, when he was able to go 
i away and study rreJicine, which was his 
one passion. .Even then he had worked 
220 



TOLD THROUGH THE MAIL 



221 



I 



for his board and had done all kinds of 
odd jobs to help out. 

He had come back to this town which 
had known him as a poor-farm boy, and 
had begun practising. It had been a 
slow, hard pull. At first people would 
not believe in him, and if the truth were 
known, it would probably be found that 
he had often been faint for lack of food. 

But his perseverance and faithfulness to 
his gods had been rewarded finally, with a 
good and successful practice, and the 
town was beginning to point with pride to 
him. 

His early rigors and hardships had 
made him austere. He w^as raw-boned 
and awkward, and absolutely lacking in 
social graces. His education was erudite. 
But there was a tremendous force in the 
man, which the wise ones predicted would 
some day bring him into more than local 
prominence. 

When I had finished the recital, Mabel 
was touched and sobered and thoroughly 
ashamed of herself. You know that is cne 
of Mabel's characteristics, and her chief- 
est charm, her appreciation of real no- 
bility and worth, and her scorn of all 
things superficial. 

We have had a good visit, the baby 
has had her simple evening meal of milk, 
and gone to sleep, and Mabel has gone 
into the kitchen to try to put some of her 
chafing-dish recipes to a practical test, for 
our supper. 

I shall join her, more for curiosity than 
anything, for she has given orders that 
from henceforth she is maid of all work, 
while I do nothing but rest, and care for 
my precious sick. 

I am eager to see what Mabel can con- 
coct other than Welsh-rabbit and lobster 
a la Newburg. I will write again in a 
few days. 

Lovingly, 

Marian. 

MiLTONVILLE, Sept. 1 2th. 

Dear Lela: 

Many days have elapsed since I wrote 
you last. Mabel and I have had so many 



things to say to each other. She has told 
me of her trip, and the wonderful things 
she has seen. Good taste has forbidden 
any mention of conquests, but knowing 
Mabel, I can guess at titles she has re- 
fused, and coronets she did not care to 
wear. 

For first and always Mabel is an Ameri- 
can. Then, two, if Mabel never loves, 
she will never marry. She pretends to 
laugh at Billy and me, but the laugh is 
only half-hearted. 

My baby is rapidly recovering. Can you 
guess what it means to me ? Besides the 
joy of her safety, is the knowledge that 
soon I can have all my dear ones together 
again, — my two Httle lads, and Billy. 
''A lodge in some vast wilderness ' ' would 
be home, with all of them. Why, then, 
should I be not content in this dear, 
quiet, quaint old town ! 

One thing puzzles me about Mabel. 
She is so tender and sweet and sympathetic, 
but she takes a cruel delight in making 
poor Dr. Howard conscious of his hands 
and feet. When I reproved her yester- 
day about it, she said it was to restore her 
self respect, as he made her conscious of 
the triviality of her life, as compared to 
his. 

A few days ago, we were speaking of 
Barbara's diet, and I was questioning him, 
regarding enlarging it. He replied that 
she must be kept upon light foods for 
some time longer, though I might safely 
give her cereals, soft-boiled eggs, toast 
and even baked apple. 

^' Does she care for pate de foie gras?" 
Mabel asked me. Then before I could 
reply to such an extraordinary question' 
she continued, ''It 's a shame to starve a 
child hke that, /shall make her some 
creamed shrimp, some mock turtle soup, 
ca/iare sandwiches, — " 

The doctor who had been staring at 
her, now fiercely interrupted, ' ' You will do 
nothing of the sort, Miss Pemberton. Mrs. 
Walton has received my orders, and I 
believe I can trust her not to stand by 
and see her child murdered. Good- 
( Contimied on page 24J) 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 LoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass 

Subscription, ^i.oo per Year, Single Copies, ioc 

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TO SUBSCRIBERS 

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Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
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In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
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office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



A WORLD HYGIENE 



A 



CCORDING to press reports, 
the latest step toward world uni- 
fication has just been contributed 
by the specialists who met in BerUn for 
the Fourteenth International Hygienic and 
Demographic Congress. Their seven days' 
sessions, beginning in the Prussian capital 
and ending at Hamburg, foreshadow noth- 
nig less than a union of peoples in the in- 
terest of planetary health. The whole 
spirit of the congress, as seen in the com- 
plete reports of it now at hand, points the 
way to a new conception of national duty 
in the fight against disease. That unhy- 
gienic conditions in any one country are 
the concern of all countries has long been 



recognized, but the experts at Berlin, in 
their attention to hygiene on board ship, 
in military camps and along lines of inter- 
communication, gave a broader interpreta- 
tion to the truth than it has yet received. 
In the contributions made to the theory of 
contagious maladies it was the work of pre- 
vention which was emphasized, and dele- 
gates pleaded in three languages for the 
international ' ' hands all round ' ' which is 
to reduce plague to the dimensions of a 
disagreeable race reminiscence. The fed- 
eration of the world in the interest of its 
health thus bids fair to precede that politi- 
cal federation to which all poets and men 
of sense continue to look forward." 

Here is an ideal worthy of the highest 
ambition. The welfare of the race now and 
here on this planet is foremost in the 
thought of the day. The observance of 
sanitary laws and the prevention of con- 
tagious maladies are matters of chief con- 
cern the world over. Intelligent people 
have come to know that most disorders, 
with which humanity is inflicted, are to 
be traced directly to preventable sources. 
They know, too, that healthful living is 
the greatest of all blessings. Likewise the 
inference is plain that danger lirks where- 
ever the hygienic conditions of life are in 
any wise neglected. Hence it follows, in 
order that individual health be secure, the 
healthfulness of the race must be made 
sound. If one people suffer from infrac- 
tion of natural law, the welfare of all is 
more or less involved. Could the money 
now expended on the armies and navies 
of the world be largely diverted to the bet- 
terment of the conditions of healthfui liv- 
ing, would not the gain in comfort and 
happiness to mankind be immense ? 

Thus, it seems, the aims of the Inter- 
national Peace Congress and the Congress 
of Health are not widely separated. Both 
are altruistic in spirit, both are concerned 
with the general well-being of humanity. 
Desire goes before realization. When 
people fully understand their needs, they 
are so far prepared to put forth the means 
of attaining desired results. In the count- 
less ills of man the old reliance was on doc- 



i 



EDITORIALS 



223 



tors and prescriptions. The new thought 
points to a dispensation that shatl be com- 
paratively free from drugs and nostrums. 
"They that are whole have no need of 
the physician, but they that are sick." 
" Our time is remarkable for a new and 
wide -spread interest in human beings and 
sympathy for them. ' ' 



THE COST OF LIVING 



U 



NDOUBTEDLY, the cost of liv- 
ing has increased since the year of 
1890. Without doubt also wages 
have increased during the same time. But 
on every hand, we hear the cry that the 
total cost of living in comparisonwith the 
income of wage-earners has greatly in- 
creased. It is true that there are fixed 
salaries which have not been changed for 
many years. In such cases the outgo has 
increased in proportion to the income. 
But we have not believed that the clamor 
about the cost of Hving represented the 
facts. Now comes a bulletin from the 
Bureau of Labor in Washington with the 
statement that the increase in the average 
earnings of laborers in 1906 over the earn- 
ings in the ten years from 1890, were near- 
ly two per cent, more than the increa: e 
of the cost of living. A full week's wages 
last year would buy more than a full week's 
wages in the ten years before 1900. Of 
course, this statement is called in question, 
and will be stoutly denied. But it is cer- 
tainly worth more as a basis of calculation 
than any popular impression can be. ' ' 

Would that the foregoing might be entire- 
ly correct. Unfortunately, the experience 
of large numbers is quite contrary thereto. 
As stated for the time in question, many a 
salary has not been advanced. It is true, 
also, that the wages of a large class of 
laborers has not been increased. Again, 
there is a very large number of publica- 
tions, whose subscription price has not 
been advanced, though the cost of every 
item that goes into their production has 
been largely increased. To raise the price 
of a newspaper or periodical is a risky pro- 
cedure. 



The fact still remains, the present high 
cost of living is uncalled for. It has been 
brought about by a combination of cir- 
cumstances and conditions that is as un- 
unreasonable as it is unjust. If one wishes 
to compare present prices with those of 
even three or four years ago, let him go 
through the process of building a dweUing 
house. He will find the cost of building 
nearly twice as large as it was then, while 
he has seen no substantial increase in his 
income. 



HUNDRED-POINT MEN 

From " White Hyacinths,''^ By Elbert Hubbard 

I HE Other day I wrote to a banker- 



T 



friend inquiring as to the responsi- 
biHty of a certain person. The 
answer came back, thus: ''He is a Hun- 
dred-Point man in everything and anything 
he undertakes. " I read the telegram then 
and pinned it over my desk where I could 
see it. That night it sort of stuck in my 
memory. I dreamed of it. 

The next day I showed the message to a 
fellow I knew pretty well, and said, "I'd 
rather have that said ol me than to be called 
a great this or that. ' ' 

Oliver Wendell Holmes has left on record 
the statement that you could not throw a 
stone on Boston Common without caroming 
on three poets, two essayists and a play- 
wright. 

Hundred-Point men are not so plentiful. 

A Hundred-Point man is one who is true 
to every trust; who keeps his word; who is 
loyal to the firm that employs him; who does 
not listen for insults nor look for shghts; 
who carries a civil tongue in his head; who 
is pohte to strangers, without being ' 'fresh ;' ' 
who is considerate to servants; who is mod- 
erate in his eating and drinking; who is 
willing to learn; who is cautious and yet 
courageous. 

Hundred-Point men may vary much in 
abihty, but this is always true — they are 
safe men to deal with, whether drivers of 
drays, motormen, clerks, cashiers, engi- 
neers or presidents of railroads. 

Paranoiacs are people who are suffering 



224 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



from fatty enlargement of the ego. They 
want the best seats in the synagogue, they 
demand bouquets, compHments, obeisance, 
and in order to see what the papers will say 
next morning, they sometimes obligingly 
commit suicide. 

The paranoiac is the antithesis of the 
Hundred- Point man. The paranoiac im- 
agines he is being wronged, that some one 
has it in for him, and that the world is down 
on him. He is given to that which is strange, 
peculiar, uncertain, eccentric and erratic. 

The Hundred-Point man may not look 
just like all other men, or dress like them, 
or talk like them, but what he does is true 
to his own nature. He is himself. 

He is more interested in doing his work 
than in what people will say about it. He 
does not consider the gallery. He acts h s 
thought and thinks little of the act. 

I never knew a Hundred-Point man who 
was not one brought up from early youth to 
make himself useful, and to economize in 
the matter of time and money. Necessity 
is ballast. 

The paranoiac, almost without exception, 
is one who has been made exempt from 
work. He has been petted, waited upon, 
coddled, cared for, laughed at and chuckled 
to. 

The excellence of the old-fashioned big 
family was that no child got an undue 
amount of attention. The antique idea 
that the child must work for his parents 
until the day he was twenty-one was a deal 
better for the youth than to let him get it 
into his head that h's parents must work 
for him. 

Nature intended that we should all be 
poor — that we should earn our bread 
every day before we eat it. 

When you find the Hundred- Point man 
you will find one who lives like a person in 
moderate circuir stances, no matter what 
his finances are. Every man, who thinks 
he has the world by the tail and is about 
to snap its demnition head off for the de- 
lectation of mankind, is unsafe, no matter 
how great his genius in the line of special- 
ties. 

The Hundred-Point man looks after just 



one individual, and that is the man under 
his own hat; he is one who does not spend 
money until he earns it; who pays his way; 
who knows that nothing is ever given for 
nothing; who keeps his digits off other 
people's property. When he does not 
know what to say, why, he says nothing, 
and, when he does not know what to do, 
does not do it. 

We should mark on moral qualities not 
merely mental attainment or proficiency, 
because in the race of life only moral qual- 
ities count. We should rate on judgment, 
application and intent. Men by habit and 
nature who are untrue to a trust, are dan- 
gerous just in proportion as they are clever. 
I would like to see a university devoted to 
turning out safe men instead of merely 
clever ones. 

How would it do for a college to give 
one degree, and only one, to those who 
are worthy, the degree of H. P. ? 

Would it not be worth striving for, to 
have a college president say of you, over 
his own signature: He is a Hundred- 
Point man in everything and anything that 
he undertakes ! 



CHARACTER AND SUCCESS 



C 



HASE your work or your work 
will chase you." 

Verily, the most necessary 
thing in a shop, store, bank, railroad office 
or factory, is to keep the peace." 

These sayings are significant in mean- 
ing. Men and women are estimated 
today by what they can do. We know 
them by their fruits. Practical usefulness, 
or what we can do well, is the test of 
value in an education, or in the walks of 
Ufe. 

It is a pleasure to do skilled work of 
any kind, to write a successful book or 
conduct a prosperous periodical. We take 
it that everybody desires to earn a comfort- 
able living, to render some service to his 
neighbors and friends, and to aid some- 
what in the advancement of society in 
general. All these things call for individ- 
ual thought, training and industry. 




Our Christmas Cake. (Page 232) 



Seasonable Recipes 

By JANET M. HILL 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Scallop Chowder 

Pour one cup of water over a quart of 
scallops, pick out the scallops, then strain 
the Hquid. Chop or cut in tiny bits one- 
fourth a pound of fat salt pork and set this 
to cook in a frying pan; when it begins to 
cook, add an onion, cut in thin slices and 
separated into rings; stir and cook until the 
onion and pork are well browned; then 
pour on a cup of water and let boil four or 
five minutes; then strain into the scallop 
broth and heat the broth to the boihng 
point. In the meantime let three cups of 



sliced potatoes boil five minutes in water 
to cover, then drain. Now strani the scal- 
lop broth over the potatoes, and return 
the whole to the fire to cook until the po- 
tatoes are tender; then add the scallops 
and let cook five minutes after boiling be- 
gins; add also a tablespoonful of salt, a 
pint of rich milk (preferably part cream), 
or a pint of tomato puree with pepper as 
desired. If a thicker consistency be pre- 
ferred, cook one-fourth a cup of flour in 
one-fourth a cup of butter, stir in the 
milk or tomato puree and add in the place 



226 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ol the unthickened milk or tomato. Serve 
with crackers made hot and crisp in the 
oven. 




Black Bass, Season from June to January 



Fillets of Black Bass, With Bread 
Stuffing 

Remove the head of the fish; with a 
sharp-pointed knife cut through the entire 
length of the fish underneath, and thus 
empty the contents; cut the fish down the 
entire length of the back on both sides of 
the fins and take out this strip; loosen the 
skin all around the edge on one side of 
the fish, rub the fingers of the right 
hand in salt, — if they are damp the salt 
will stick to them — then pull the skin 
from the side of the fish made ready. If 
at any place it does not separate from the 
flesh, push it with the knife. Remove 
the skin from the other side in the same 
way. Then commencing at the top push 
and scrape the flesh from the bones, 
keeping the flesh on each side as whole as 




Fillets of Black Bass, with Bread Dressing. Cucumber Salad 



possible. Wash and break up the bones, 
and put them in a saucepan over the fire, 
with cold water to cover; add two slices of 
onion, four of carrot and a sprig of parsley 



and let simmer an hour or longer. Wash 
the two fillets of fish and dry them on a 
cloth. Put some bits of butter (about a 
tablespoonful) in an earthen 
baking dish ; on these lay a 
slice of the bass, put on 
this a layer of bread dress- 
ing, and above this the other 
fillet of fish; dot it with bits 
of butter, or strips of salt 
pork, and set into a hot 
oven. Bake about twenty- 
five minutes, reducing the 
heat after five or six min- 
utes. Baste with some of 
the fish broth, in which a 
little butter has been melted, every six min- 
utes. Just before the fish is baked, 
spread half a cup of cracker crumbs mixed 
with three level tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter over the top of the fish and return 
to the oven, to brown the crumbs. Melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook 
two level tablespoonfuls of flour and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pa- 
prika, then add three fourths a cup of fish 
stock and one-fourth a cup of cream. Stir 
until boiling, then beat in a tablespoonful 
of butter. Serve cucumbers or French 
pickle at the same time. 

Bread Stuffing for Black Bass 

Pass enough bread, freed from crust, 

through a colander to fill a cup; mix with 

this two crushed sage leaves, a bit of 

thyme or sweet marjoram, one-fourth a 

teaspoonful, each, of salt 

and pepper and one-third a 

cup of melted butter. 

Cucumbers to Serve 
with Fish 

Let the cucumbers stand 
an hour or more in very 
cold or ice water. Remove 
the skin with a handy slicer, 
to give a channeled effect, 
and cut in thin, even slices. For one 
medium-sized cucumber rub over the salad 
dish with the cut side of a clove of garlic; 
put into a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



227 



one tablespoonful of vinegar, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of saU, pepper 
and onion juice; beat with a fork until 
thoroughly mixed, then pour over the cu- 
cumber slices disposed in a 
circle in the dish. 

Rolled Fillets of 
Bass, Baked 

Remove the flesh from 
the bass in two fillets (as is 
described in the preceding 
recipe). Put the fillets in a 
dish, squeeze over them the 
juice of half a lemon, put 
slices of onion between, and 
set them aside in a cool place 
until ready to cook. Then 
roll the fillets separately and 
loosely into turban shapes, put bits of salt 
pork over them, and set to cook in a hot 
oven. After four or five minutes baste 
with salt pork fat and reduce the heat. Let 
cook about twenty minutes, basting five 
times. Leave two tablespoonfuls of the 
fat in the pan after the fish has been taken 
out: add to this two tablespoonfuls of flour 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, and cook until frothy, then 
add a cup of broth made from the bones, 
bits of onion, parsley and a few slices of 



Boiled Halibut, Christmas Style 

Heat a quart of water, half a cup of 
claret wine, a teaspoonful of salt, two chih 




Rolled Fillets of Black Bass 

peppers, — fresh or preserved — ■ until 
lukewarm; put in three pounds of hahbut 
in a thick and rather short piece, and heat 
to the boiling point, then let simmer about 
twenty-five minutes. Remove the fish to 
the serving dish, and keep hot while the 
sauce is made. Take out a pint of the 
liquid in which the fish was cooked and set 
it into a dish of cold water that it may chill 
a little. In the meantime melt one -fourth 
a cup of butter; cook in it one-fourth a 
cup of flour, then add the chilled broth 





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Preparing Mexican Tamales 



carrot, and cook until boiling. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of capers or fine-chopped 
cucumber pickles. Serve in a fish boat 
or bowl. 



and stir until the sauce boils; then stir in a 
tablespoonful of butter, a httle at a time, 
and add salt as needed. Bass and other 
fish may be cooked in the same way. The 



228 



THE BOSTON COOKNG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



time of cooking will depend on the thick- 
ness of the fish. 

Mexican Tamales 




Mexican Tamales, Ready for Cooking 

Have a chicken cooked tender in boiling 
water to cover; remove the meat and chop 
it fine; return the bones to the broth. 
From fresh corn husks, select a wide leaf of 
husk for each tamale, or use dry husks 
steamed until pliable. Remove and dis- 
card the seeds from a dozen red chili pep- 
pers and chop the pods very fine; peel six 
large tomatoes and squeeze the seeds from 
them. Mix the tomato and pepper and 
let simmer twenty minutes, or until well 
reduced. Stir enough of the hot chicken 
liquor into three cups of corn meal to thor- 



to season. Salt should also be added to 
the corn meal, if the broth in which it was 
mixed had not been seasoned. Put a 
layer of corn meal into the corn husk and 
on this put two tablespoon- 
fuls of the chicken and to- 
mato mixture. Let the 
chicken come nearly to 
the ends of the corn meal, 
and the corn meal well up 
to the ends of the husk. 
Keeping the husk between 
the fingers and the meal, 
fold the meal over the 
chicken, from each side, 
to enclose the chicken 
completely; roll the husks 
over the whole, turn up 
the ends and tie them se- 
securely, using narrow strips torn from 
the husks for the purpose. Put the 
tamales on the top of the bones in the 
chicken broth, taking care that the bones 
keep them well out of the broth. Cover 
closely and let simmer one hour. Serve 
hot. 

Guinea Hens' Eggs in Aspic Jelly- 
Guinea hens' eggs are small and have a 
sHght gamey flavor, both of which com- 
mend them for service in jelly. Have ready 
a dish of ice and water and a hard-cooked 




Moulding Guinea Hens' Eggs in Aspic Jelly 



oughly moisten it, then let it stand half an 
hour. When everything is ready, mix the 
tomato and pepper with the chicken, adding 
a teaspoonful or more of salt as is needed 



Qgg for each serving, also enough aspic 
made of chicken broth or of consomme to 
fill the required number of moulds with- 
out taking the eggs into account. Put a 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



229 



teaspoonful of liquid aspic into the moulds 
and set them into the ice and water. Do 
not have much water with the ice, at this 
stage of the moulding, that 
the moulds may not float 
but stand level. Use a 
larding needle to set capers 
or figures cut from shoes 
of truffle in place; add a 
few drops of aspic to hold 
them where they are set, 
then put into the moulds, 
plain timbale moulds. Fill 
the space between the two 
moulds with Hquid aspic. 
When the whole is very 
iirm, pour lukewarm water into the timbale 
moulds to the height of the jelly on the 
outside and quickly hft out the moulds. Do 
not let the water stand in the moulds or 
the jelly will melt. Put the eggs, freed 
from shells, in the open spaces, and pour 
in half-set jelly to fill the space completely. 
When ready to serve, immerse the moulds 
to the height of the jelly in lukewarm water, 
loosen at the edge if needed, and invert 
on individual plates. Garnish with heart 
leaves of lettuce and may- 
onnaise dressing. A table- 
spoonful of cubes of chick- 
en and shoes of celery, 
mixed with mayonnaise 
dressing, may be used in 
place of the eggs to fill the 
open space in the moulds. 
Do not fill with salad quite 
to the height of the jelly. 
Make the salad smooth, 
then pour over it about a 
tablespoonful of half-set 
■aspic. Set aside in a cool 
place until time of serv- 
ing. 



tine (two ounces), softened in one cup of 
cold water, and the slightly beaten white of 
one egg with the crushed shells of several. 




Boiled Lamb for Two, Turnip and Carrot, (See page 237) 



Crush the celery, onion and parsley, that 
the juices may be dissolved into the liquid. 
Stir constantly while heating the whole to 
the boiling point; let boil five or six min- 
utes, then draw to a cooler part of the range 
to "settle." Wring a piece of doubled 
cheese cloth out of boiling water and spread 
it over a colander set into an earthen or 
agate bowl. Set a strainer above the 
cheese cloth to catch the scum and shells 
that would clog the cloth. 



Aspic Jelly from 
Chicken Broth 





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Strainer, Cloth and Colander, Ready to Strain Liquid 
Aspic or Consomme 



Free from fat one quart of 
liquid in which a chicken has been cooked; 
-add two stalks of celery, half an onion, two 
cloves, two sprigs of parsley, the thin yellow 
paring of half a lemon, one package of gela- 



Chicken Salad 

Prepare mayonnaise dressing with a 
cup of oil and set it aside to become 



230 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



chilled. Hard cook three eggs. Cut 
the breast of a cooked chicken, four pounds 




Chicken Salad 

in weight, into three-eighths aninch cubes. 
Pour over the cubes of chicken a scant half 
a teaspoonfulof salt, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of pepper, three tablespoonfuls of oil, 
and one tablespoonful and a 
half of vinegar. With a 
spoon and fork mix and turn 
the chicken until the season- 
ings are evenly mixed 
throughout, then cover and 
set aside to become chilled. 
Wash and make crisp (in 
cold water) the tender inner 
stalks of celery, then cut in 
thin slices enough of the 
celery to equal nearly half 
the bulk of chicken. When 
about ready to serve the 
salad, drain the chicken (if needed), add 
the sifted yolks of eggs, the celery and 
enough of the mayonnaise to hold the mass 



opposite sides of the mound with a dough- 
nut cutter, and the two other sides with a 
smaller cutter. Fill in the outer 
rings with capers. Fill the centers 
of the rings and the remainder 
of the surface of the mound with 
the whites of the eggs, chopped 
fine. Dispose a star cut from 
a slice of pickled beet on the 
white of egg in the centers of the 
wreaths, a few celery leaves in 
the top and heart leaves of let- 
tuce or endive around the base. 

Rutabaga Turnips au Gratin 

Pare a rutabaga turnip and cut it in 
quarters, lengthwise of the turnip; let stand 





Chicken Pie for Two. (See Page 239) 

together. Press it in a mound on to the 
serving dish, and spread the rest of the 
mayonnaise over the mound. Score two 



Chicken Breast, Cooked for Two. (See Page 237) 



in cold water until ready to cook, then 
drain, cover with boihng water and let boil 
vigorously about an hour and a half; add 
half a teaspoonful of salt 
towards the last of the cook- 
ing. Drain and cut in half- 
inch cubes. For a cup and 
a half of these cubes prepare 
a cup of cream sauce; i. e., 
melt two tablespoonfuls of 
butter and cook in it two 
tablespoonfuls of flour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and black 
pepper; when bubbling and 
frothy, pour in one cup of 
rich milk and stir constantly 
until the sauce boils; add the turnip cubes 
and three or more tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese; mix carefully, to avoid breaking 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



231 



the turnip, and turn into a shallow dish suit- 
able to send to the table. Over the top 
spread half a cup of cracker crumbs mixed 
with three or four table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter. 
Brown the crumbs in a hot 
oven and serve at once. 

Rutabaga Turnip 
Salad 

Cut cold, boiled rutabaga 
turnips into three-eighths of 
an inch cubes. For a pint 
of cubes put five table- 
spoonfuls of oHve oil, three 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a 
scant half teaspoonful of salt, 
a dash of black pepper and a 
teaspoonful of onion juice 
into a cream bottle that 
can be securely closed. 
Shake the bottle vigorously until the whole 
is evenly blended, then pour the mixture 
over the prepared turnip. With a silver 
fork and spoon lift and drop the cubes of 
turnip until the dressing is evenly mixed 
throughout; let stand in a cool place half 
an hour or longer, then turn on to a bed 
of washed-and-dried lettuce leaves, sprinkle 
with a tablespoonful of fine-chopped pars- 
ley or capers and serve at once. 

Mashed Potato, Christmas Style 

Pare the potatoes and cut from them 
about a cup of half-inch balls, using a 
small French cutter. 
Put the balls into a fry- 
ing pan, in which two 
or three tablespoonfuls 
of butter have been 
melted, and set them in- 
to the oven to cook; 
shake the pan occa- 
sionally, that the balls 
may brown evenly. 
Put the potatoes from 
which the balls were 
cut over the fire to boil; add a tablespoon- 
ful of salt and let cook until the potatoes 
are tender. Drain off the water, sprinkle 
the potatoes with salt, and let them dry on 



the back of the range. Press the potatoes 
through a ricer; add butter, cream or milk, 
and salt as needed, and beat until light 




Mashed Potato, Christmas Style 

and fluffy. Put the mashed potato into a 
buttered au gratin dish. With a silver 
knife, shape it something like a pyramid, 
crease the outside with a knife, brush it 
over with melted butter, and set into the 
oven to brown. Turn the potato balls 
around the mashed potato and sprinkle the 
whole with fine-chopped parsley. 

Rice Croquettes 

Put a cup of rice over the fire in about 
a quart of cold water and stir while the 
water is quickly heated to the boiHng point. 
Let boil five minutes, then drain, rinse in 




Rice Croquettes 

cold water and drain again; add three cups 
of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, cover 
and let cook until the rice is tender; beat 
the yolks of two eggs; add oi^.e-fourth a 



232 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



cup of sugar and beat again; then stir into 
the rice with one-lourth a cup of butter, 
and one-fourth a cup of candied orange 




Apples with Almond Pralinee^ Jelly and Cream 



peel, shredded very fine. When all are 
evenly mixed through the rice, turn it on to 
a plate to become cold. When the rice is 
cold, take rounding tablespoonfuls in the 
hands and shape it into balls. Roll the 
balls in sifted bread crumbs, then cover 
them with an egg, beaten and diluted with 
two or three tablespoonfuls of milk or 
water, and again roll in the crumbs. Fry 
in deep fat, drain on soft paper and set on 



Sauce for Rice Croquettes 

Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup of 
water five minutes; stir in a level 
teaspoonful of cornstarch, diluted 
with a Httle cold water, and let 
cook six minutes; then add one- 
fourth 1 cup of sherry wine or 
half a cup of currant j elly with a 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
or simply a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. 

Apples, V/ith Almond 
Pralinee, Jelly and Cream 

Core and pare eight or ten 
well-flavored apples. Make a 
syrup of a cup of water and a 
cup of sugar; in this cook the 
apples, a few at a time, turning often 
until they are tender, when tested with a 
fork, in the hollow center of the apples. 
Set the apples as cooked on to a serving 
dish. Blanch and chop fine one-fourth a 
cup of almonds. Cook three-fourths a 
cup of sugar to caramel, taking care that it 
does not become too brown. When the 
sugar is nearly cooked, add the chopped 
almonds and stir constantly until the sugar 




Toasted Marshmallow Cake 



a hot dish. Press three or four bits of an- 
gelica or sliced citron into the top of each 
and set a candied cherry within the 
space. Serve with sauce, as a sweet en- 
tree, with roast meats; or serve as a dessert 
dish. 



is cooked enough. Put a spoonlul of the 
caramel and nuts on to the top of the apples 
around the central opening. Put a tea- 
spoonful of currant jelly into the opening 
in each apple. Beat a cup of cream until 
firm to the bottom of the bowl; put this 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



233 



around the apples and serve at once. Or, 
let the apples stand until cold, then add 
the cream and serve. This is a delicious 
dessert suitable for any occasion. 

Toasted Marshmallow Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then the 
beaten yolks of three eggs. Sift together 
one cup and a half of flour and two level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder; add to the 
first mixture, alternately, with half a cup of 
milk and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
Lastly, beat in the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry. Bake in two layer cake pans. 
Put together with chocolate icing and 
decorate with toasted marshmallows. To 
toast the marshmallows hold them, one by 
one, on a fork over bright coals until deli- 
cately browned. 

Chocolate Frosting 

Set one cup and a half of sugar, half a 
cup of water and two ounces of chocolate 
over a slow fire, stir until the chocolate is 
melted, then stir, occasionally, while the 
syrup boils vigorously. When the syrup 
spins a hair from the tip of a spoon (after 
the greater portion has run off) turn it, in 
a fine stream, on to the beaten white of 
a large egg, beating constantly meanwhile. 
Use as soon as it is firm enough to hold 
its shape. If the white of a large egg be 
not at hand, select the whites from two 
small eggs. 

Rolled Oats, Fruit-and-Nut 
Cookies 

Beat a cup of butter to a cream; gradu- 
ally beat in a cup of sugar, the beaten 
yolks of two eggs, one-fourth a cup of 
sweet milk, a cup of raisins and half a cup 
of nuts chopped fine, the whites of two 
eggs beaten dry, two cups of rolled oats 
and two cups of flour sifted with a level 
teaspoonful of soda. Mix thoroughly, ad- 
ding more flour, if it is needed, to make 



a fine dough. Roll into a thin sheet and 
cut into shapes. Bake in a moderate oven. 
The recipe will make about five dozen 
cookies — for a richer cooky omit the 
mflk. 

Angel Cake, Fryeburg Recipe 
Beat the whites of eight eggs until 
foamy; add half a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar, and beat until dry, then gradually 
beat in one cup and a half of sugar, 
and one teaspoonful of vanilla, then fold 
in one cup of pastry flour measured after 
sifting. Bake in a tube pan about forty-five 
minutes. 

Our Christmas Cake 

Make either a «' Nut-and-Raisin cake " 
by the following recipe, or a sponge or 
Angel cake. Bake in a tube pan, and 
when cold cover with chocolate frosting. 
Decorate with candles in holders and with 
mice made from fresh marshmaUows. Press 
the marshmallows into the shape of mice 
with the fingers; add a piece of string for 
a tail, thread for whiskers, and dots of 
chocolate frosting for eyes. Press the 
mice in place before the frosting hardens. 

Nut-and-Raisin Cake (W. A. C.) 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually add one cup of sugar. Then 
add three eggs, one at a time, beating thor- 
oughly. Have ready, one cup of nut 
meats and half a cup of raisins; put 
through a chopper together, and rub these 
through two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with two level teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder. 

Then, alternately, beat in the flour 
mixture with three-fourths a cup of milk, 
adding the grated rind of a lemon, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and a 
suggestion of nutmeg or mace. 

Bake in a tube pan : spread a brown 
sugar icing over the top, and decorate with 
perfect nut meats. 



A* A» A* 



Menus for a Week in December (Family 

of Two) 

" Permanent improvements in the standard of life depend rather upon wise spending than upon large earnings." 



Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp, Cream 

Cold Boiled Ham 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Hot Buttered Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken Breast en Casserole^ Fruit Jelly 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Boiled Onions Celery Hearts 

Chestnut Parfait 

Oatmeal Fruit Cookies 

Small Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Toasted Crackers, Buttered 

Oatmeal Fruit Cookies 

Cocoa 
Toasted Marshmallows 



Breakfast 

Chopped Ham, 

Scrambled with Eggs 

Sliced Potatoes, Cooked in Milk 

Yeast Rolls, Reheated 

Cereal Coffee 

Luncheon for One 

Remnants of Chicken Pie, Reheated 

Cold Rice Pudding 

Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup 
Boston Baked Beans, with Pork 

Spinach 

Cottage Pudding, Sultana Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 





Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cold Boiled Ham, Mustard 


Cereal, Cream 




Sweet Potatoes, Reheated 


Ham Timbales, Cream Sauce 




Corn Meal Muffins 


Small Baked Potatoes 




Coffee 


Buttered Toast Coffee 


p 
o 


Luncheon for One 


I-uncheon for One 


Hot Baltimore Samp 


Baked Bean Salad 


Maple Syrup, Cream 


Bread and Butter 


Piece of Cranberry Pie 


Coffee 


Tea 


Grapes 


Dinner 


Dinner 




Slice of Halibut, Boiled 


Chicken Legs and Wings, Sauted 




Drawn Butter Sauce 


Mashed Potato 




Boiled Potatoes 


Spinach-and-Egg Salad 




Lettuce, French Dressing 


Apples Pralinee, Cream 




Cranberry Pie 


Cookies 




Small Cups of Coffee 


Half Cups of Coffee 




Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cereal, Cream 


Cereal, Cream 




Sliced Ham Fritters 


Baked Beans, Reheated 




Hot Apple Sauce 


Baking Powder Biscuit 




Doughnuts 


Coffee 


< 


Coffee 


Luncheon for One 


Luncheon for One 


Date, Apple-and- Lettuce Salad 




Creamed Halibut au gratin 


Entire Wheat Bread with Butter 


Baked Potato 


Doughnuts 


Yeast Rolls 


Cheese 


Dinner 


Cereal Coffee 




Chicken Pie 


Dinner 




Cranberry Sauce 


Fried Oysters, Cole Slaw 




Creamed Celery - 


Baking Powder Biscuit, Reheated 




Rice Pudding 


Date Whip, Boiled Custard 




Half Cups of Coffee 


Half Cups of Coffee 


> 

< 


Breakfast. Luncheon for One Dinner 


o 


Cereal, Cream Rye Meal Muffins, Toasted Boiled Lamb, Caper Sauce 


p^ 


Broiled Honeycomb Tripe Orange Marmalade Boiled Turnips 


[3 


Small Potatoes, Baked Cream Cheese Boiled Potatoes 


< 
in 


Rye Meal Muffins Doughnut Apple Pie, Cream 


Apple Ginger Coffee Co 


coa Half Cups of Coffee 



Menus for a Week in December (Family 

of Five) 



" The family table is an educational factor of 

Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream Creamed Corned Beef au 

Gratin Small Baked Potatoes 

Boston Brown Bread, Toa'sted 

Cereal Griddle Cakes Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken Broth with Rice 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Stuffed and Roasted 

Mint Sauce Brown Sauce 

Mashed Rutabaga Turnips 

Franconia Potatoes Lettuce Salad 

Apple-and-Brown Bread Pudding, 

Creamy Sauce Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Chicken Creamed in Chafing Dish 

Toast Olives Cake with Chocolate Frosting 

and Marshmallows Creole Coffee 



greatest importance to the children." 

Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Cream 

Lamb, Potato-and-Green Pepper Hash 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Luncheon 

Welsh Rabbit with Bacon Hot Apple Sauce 

Thanksgiving Pudding, Creamy Sauce 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Baked Fillets of Fish, 

Bread Dressing 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Philadelphia ReUsh 

Mashed Potato, Christmas Fashion 

Frozen Apricots 

Oat Meal Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream 

Broiled Sausage, Apple Sauce 

Potatoes, Delmonico Style 

Yeast Biscuit Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin 

Baked Potatoes Celery Hearts 

Squash Pie Tea 

Dinner 

Cold Roast Lamb, Scalloped with 

Macaroni and Tomato Sauce 

Canned Corn Custard 

Toasted Crackers Cheese Celery 

Spiced Apple Tapioca Pudding 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Grape Fruit 

Scalloped Fish Pickled Beets 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Hot Yeast Rolls (Kept in Refrigerator over 

night) Coffee 

Luncheon 

Baked Beans, New^ York Style 
Tomato Catsup Cranberry Pie Tea 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup 
Loin of Pork, Roasted, Brown Sauce 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce 

Mashed Turnips Mashed Potatoes 

Cabbage Salad 

Wine or Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream 

Coffee or Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream 

Broiled Sausage Hot Apple Sauce 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes, 

Maple Syrup 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Mayonnaise of Potatoes-and-Sardines 

Hot Yeast Rolls 

Apple Dumpling 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken Pie 

Celery-and- Apple Salad 

Rice Croquettes, Syrup Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Sliced Bananas, Cream 

German Coffee Cake 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Lncheon 

Oyster Soup 

Celery 

Lettuce-and-Baked Bean Salad 

Brown Bread and Butter 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Thick Piece of Halibut, Boiled, 

Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Cauliflower, Curry Sauce 

Lemon Snow, Boiled Custard 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream 
Lamb Chops, Broiled 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk 

Rhode Island Johnnie Cake 

Coffee 



Luncheon 

Halibut Souffle, Oyster Sauce 

Cabbage Salad 

Potatoes Scalloped with Onions 

Coffee 

Roasted Chestnuts 



Dinner 

Tomato and Lamb Soup, 

Macaroni Rings 

Cold Roast Loin of Pork 

Creamed Turnips au Gratin 

Stewed Lima Beans (dried) 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Canned Pears Cake Coffee 



Dinners for Christmas Tide 

Institution (Plain Economical Dishes) 

Cream-of-Tomato Soup Ribs of Beef, Roasted Ribs of Pork, Roasted 

Chicken Pie Mashed Potatoes Mashed Squash 

Boiled Onions Celery Cranberry Sauce Apple Sauce 

Mince Pie Vanilla Ice Cream 

Browned Crackers Cheese 

Nuts Raisins Coffee 



Elaborate Home Dinner 

Tiny Anchovy Eclairs Game Consomm^, with Game Quenelles 

Olives Celery Hearts Fillets of Fish, Baked in White Wine 

French Peas Sweetbpead-and-Mushroom Patties 

Roast Goose Apples Pralin^e (no cream) 

Mashed Potatoes, Christmas Fashion Brussels Sprouts 

Claret Punch Mayonnaise of Chicken Salad in Aspic Jelly 

Mince Pie, Flaming Fruit Cup (Orange Sherbet with Fruit) 

Marrons Bonbons Coffee 



Little Dinner 

Chicken-and-Clam Broth Salted Nuts Olives Celery 

Oyster Croquettes Tomato-Hollandaise Sauce 

Stuffed Lamb Chops, with Chestnut PuRfeE 

Roast Turkey Cranberry Sauce Mashed Potatoes 

Egg Plant Fritters Celery-and-Endive Salad 

Plum Pudding, Hard and Liquid Sauces 

KuMQUATS Nuts Bonbons Lady Apples Coffee 



Family of Two 

Oyster Soup, Gherkins Roast Duck Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Potatoes, Scalloped, with Grated Onion Squash 

Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce 

Tangerine Oranges Grapes Coffee 



Christmas Eve (Adults) 



[After Christmas tree or other entertainment') 

Chicken Salad in Aspic Jelly Olives Bread-and-Nut Sandwiches 

Frozen Egg Nog, Whipped Cream and Cherry Decoration 

Christmas Cakes Creole Coffee 



Christmas Eve (Children) 

{^Before Christmas Tree) 

Chicken Broth with Rice, Bread Sticks 
Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches or 
Bread-and-Orange Marmalade Jelly Sandwiches 
Lady Fingers Springerlie Ice Cream Cocoa 



J 



Cookery for Young Housekeepers 

By JANET M. HILL 
LESSON VI 
Cooking of Less Tender Meat 



IN cooking tender meat we took pains 
to secure a glossy, well-browned exte- 
rior and a delicate coagulation of the 
proteids in solution. In cooking less 
tender meat a rich-colored, high-flavored 
surface can be secured only indirectly. 
Our chief concern is to change the con- 
nective tissue into gelatine and to coagu- 
late the proteids, delicately. To gelatinize 
connective tissue, moisture in the form of 
water is introduced and prolonged cooking 
is needful. As in roasting and broiling, the 
portion of meat is first subjected to high 
heat, that a coating may be formed to keep 
in the juices, after that the cooking is com- 
pleted at a lower temperature. By ex- 
periments it has been found that the tem- 
perature in the center of meat during 
cooking is much lower than that of the 
liquid (or oven heat) surrounding it. 
Thus albuminous juices, which coagulate 
between 134° and 160*^ F. are not over- 
cooked, though the Hquid surrounding the 
meat be at the boiling point of water, 
212° F. To give the best results, however, 
the liquid that supplies moisture for the 
cooking of meats containing much connec- 
tive tissue should not exceed a temperature 
between \Z^'' and 200*^ F. By lengthen- 
ing the time of cooking, just as good re- 
sults may be obtained at a much lower de- 
gree of heat, as in the fireless cooker. In 



all cases the cooking is completed, when 
the fibers are tender and held together 
loosely yet compactly in a slightly gelatin- 
ous mass. 

Without a thermometer, the proper tem- 
perature is assured, if the liquid ** bubble'* 
occasionally on one side of the kettle. A 
furious bubbling of the liquid hardens al- 
buminous juices in solution; and in the 
cooking of meats cut in small pieces, as 
joints of a fowl or pieces of round steak, 
cooked en casserole, or for beefsteak pie, 
the albuminous juices are hardened 
throughout. 

Cuts of Less Tender Meat Suitable 
For Family of Two 

Beef is not as palatable when warmed 
over as is lamb, veal or fowl; thus 
pot-roast, boiled-and-braised beef, even 
in pieces of three or four pounds are 
not recommended for the family of two. 
Other dishes of beef to take the place of 
these will be given. For stews, en casse- 
role dishes, hashed beef and onions and 
beefsteak pies, meat from the round is the 
best; for beef tea, bouillon, cannelon of 
beef, or mince meat, select meat from the 
sticking piece. For corned beef, buy 
three pounds from the plate or the brisket. 
Carefully selected the lean and fat meat 
will be well proportioned. Either of 



237 



238 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



these pieces, but more especially the 
brisket, will slice well when cold. Creamed 
corned beef is a dish that can be served with 
pleasure at least as often as once a week 
throughout the year, and well-made 
corned-beef-and-potato hash never goes a 
begging. Corned beef, cut in tiny cubes 
and served with vegetables, potato cubes, 
peas and the like, and French or mayon- 
naise dressing, to which onion juice has 
been added, is easily prepared and de- 
serves to be a favorite dish. Thus, with 
all these ways of presenting close, fine- 
grained brisket, four pounds may not be 
too much for an occasional purchase. 

A fowl a year old may be cooked in 
moist heat until the fibers are tender, and 
the connective tissues are gelatinized, and 
then browned in the oven with much bast- 
ing and dredging to approximate the glos- 
sy ' ' carameled ' ' appearance and flavor of 
a roast chicken. 

A fowl a year old may be cooked to 
give quite a diversity of dishes. The 
breast, cut out neatly, may be cooked in a 
casserole for one meal; the rest may be 
stewed; of this the legs and wings may be 
fried, and on a third day the rest of the 
chicken, picked from the bones, with any of 
the breast left over, may be served in a pie. 
Three pounds from the forequarter of 
yearhng lamb provide a convenient piece 
for boiled lamb; the scrag, on neck end of 
the forequarter is good for a stew, but the 
part containing the shoulder is preferable 
for boiling. This will serve for dinner and 
leave enough to be fine-chopped, when 
cold, and used for a second meal. 

For veal stew, two or three pounds from 
any part of the forequarter may be se- 
lected; for other dishes of veal, the part 
of the hind leg that corresponds to the 
** round " of beef will be the choice. 

For boiled ham, buy about three pounds 
from about the center of the ham; when 
cold cut in thin slivers across the grain of 
the meat. Very little of such a piece of 
ham will be left for chopping. Taking in- 
to account the very small quantity of waste 
in this piece and the large quantity of 
waste, when either the shank or the 



round end of a ham is selected, the higher 
price asked for the piece from the center 
will not prove an extravagance. 

Boiled Corned Beef 

Select three or four pounds from the 
plate or brisket, wash carefully in cold 
water, cover with cold water and heat 
slowly to the boihng point, then let sim- 
mer until the meat is tender. It will take 
about six hours. With a fireless cooker 
proceed as above, but, after simmering an 
hour and a half, set into the cooker to re- 
main about ten hours. Serve with it 
boiled turnips or cauhflower. 

Boiled Lamb 

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, cover 
with boiling water, let boil five or six min- 
utes, then simmer about three hours. 
Serve with caper sauce, boiled turnips, 
cauliflower or spinach and potatoes. 

Breast of Fowl (One Year) en 
Casserole 

With a sharp knife cut the breast, entire, 
from a fowl a year old and leave the rest of 
the flesh intact. Have three or four table- 
spoonfuls of salt pork or bacon fat, butter 
or vegetable oil in a frying pan; when hot 
cook the breast over a brisk fire on the skin, 
side until slightly browned, then set into an 
earthen dish; add about a dozen slices of 
carrot and an equal number of celery and 
pour in boihng water to half cover the 
chicken; put on the cover of the dish and 
let boil five or six minutes, then set to cook 
in a moderate oven for about two hours. 
Allow plenty of time for cooking, as the 
chicken may be kept hot in the dish after 
it is cooked enough. Renew the water as 
needed and add salt and pepper. When 
about half cooked, serve from the dish, or 
dispose the chicken on a platter with the 
vegetables around it. 

How TO Cook and Serve Rest of the 
Fowl 

Separate the fowl at the joints, wash in 
cold water, drain, cover with boiling water 
and let boil six or seven minutes, then let 



HIS SHOPPING 



239 



simmer until tender. It will take about two 
hours, then add a teaspoonful of salt and 
cook longer if not perfectly tender. 

Fowl Sauted 

Roll the legs and wings in flour seasoned 
with salt and pepper, then set them to cook 
in a frying pan containing three or four 
tablespoonfuls of hot salt pork fat. When 
browned on one side turn the pieces and 
brown the other side. Serve garnished with 
celery tips and parsley. Serve also at the 
same time macaroni in tomato sauce, Turk- 
ish pilaf, plain boiled rice, curried rice, 
spinach a la creme, creamed potatoes, etc. 
Use some of the broth for a sauce. 

Chicken Pie for Two 

Pick the rest of the meat from the bones; 
add any bits left from the breast and chicken 
broth to cover the whole; add also salt and 
pepper to season. Heat to the boiling point, 
then turn into a small earthen baking dish. 
In the meanwhile sift together into a bowl 
a cup and a half of pastry flour, three level 



teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a scant 
half teaspoonful of salt. With the tips of 
the fingers work into the flour about one- 
third a cup of shortening, then with a knife 
mix the mass to a dough with sweet cream 
or rich milk in quantity as is needed. Turn 
the dough on to a floured board, turn it 
around with the knife to flour it a little, then 
knead lightly and pat and roll into a sheet, 
a little larger than the dish. Cut out a 
round to fit the dish and make two cross- 
wise sHts in the center. Butter the edge of 
the dish, and set the crust in place. With 
a smaU round cutter stamp out several 
rounds from the rest of the dough. Use 
the same cutter and stamp the rounds into 
crescent and oval-shaped pieces; brush the 
under side of these with cold water and set 
them upon the crust in symmetrical fashion. 
Brush over the whole top with melted but- 
ter and bake about half an hour. If any 
chicken broth still remains, use it in making 
a sauce for the pie. To make a beefsteak 
pie, use small pieces of steak, simmered un- 
til tender, in the same way. 



His Shopping 

By ALIX THORN 

Down the road came a little laddie, 
Curls a-flying one summer day, 

Happiest boy in the town I venture. 

Racing and skipping the whole long way. 

Small brown bag 'neath his arm he carried, 

Patted it, peeped in it, tasted too, 
Quaint was the song he was softly singing, 
- Oddest words that you ever knew. 



Through the village he gaily scampered; 

Followed a brooklet, then home by the wood; 
Over and over these words he chanted, 

^^ Animal crackers, is good, is good." 




HOME IDE.AS 
AND ECOriOMlES 




^ik.JU^Ao.^JL^ft.,A-ft-..ft — i>-^iw^ft-.<A,^(^^ri^ -^tv^^B.-a^->-^^ 



ContribuJ:ions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



The Servantless House 

A CHICAGO woman determined to 
solve the servant question for herself 
and husband, by building a house that would 
not require a servant. She met with great 
opposition from the architects, but finally 
found one that would draw her plans. The 
requirements were: 

First. It must be on one floor. 

Second. Hot water for bath and kitchen 
use, summer and winter. 

Third. Few rooms to take care of (all 
rooms being large except the kitchen. 

The ideal house has plenty of windows 
to admit the sunshine and air. The rooms 
in which daily work is done must be cen- 
trally located. Bring the living room near 
the kitchen and your own bed room as close 
to both as possible. If you want sewing 
room, guest room, billiard room or studio, 
locate them at the extremes of the building 
— but not so the main rooms of the family 
that require daily care. 

Upon entering the front door of this ser- 
vantless house, one steps into a living room 
20 ft. X 2 7 ft. , with an octagonal den, fifteen 
feet in diameter opening out of it, which, 
with a folding couch, can be used as a guest 
room. On one side of the living room is 
a large fireplace of artistic dull brick to ac- 
commodate logs. 

Beside the fireplace is a seat built in, 
with a row of windows over it. On the 
opposite side of the room are large windows, 
and under the broad casements are low 
bookcases built in. There are few mould- 
ings and no fancy trimmings. 

From the living room opens a large bed 



room, 1 6 X 2 5 ft. , with two large closets, and 
opening into it is a beautiful tiled bath 
room, which can also be entered from the 
hall that extends from the living room to a 
large screened-in porch. An octagonal 
dressing room opens off the bed room and 
can be used as a sewing room. 

There is no dining room in this unique 
house, for it means one more room to care 
for. It is only custom that dictates we must 
sit down in state to eat our meals. If you 
feel you must have a dining room, with a 
table set with all the appointments, do so 
by all means. This other plan will save work. 
The home has not kept pace with the in- 
dustrial world, in improving the methods 
of adjusting household affairs. Housework 
should be carried on with no more loss of 
time or energy, than is involved in the con- 
duct of any well-managed business. To be 
independent we must sacrifice many of the 
customs to which we cling. 

The old order is passing away and the 
sacredness of home will not suffer, but, in- 
stead, we will have a greater development 
and more opportunities for freedom and 
happiness. 

This same woman has arranged her 
household so that, in winter, the meals are 
served on a table in front of a big log fire 
in the living room; in summer, on a vine- 
clad screened-in porch. She invented a 
cart with compartments, which she wheels 
through a door from the kitchen to the liv- 
ing room. On the upper deck the silver 
and china are placed, on the lower, the 
food, including the dessert. As the courses 
are served, the soiled dishes are returned 
to the cart. When the meal is over, the 



210 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



241 



table is cleared, and everything placed in 
the cart and wheeled back into the kitchen 
to be washed and put away. In summer the 
table is set on the porch, the cart being 
used as described above. This cart is a 
great labor saving device. 

The model kitchen has four windows. 
One whole side ot the room is lined with 
cupboards, some with glass doors, others of 
solid wood; beneath are drawers and flour 
bins. The gas range stands conveniently 
near the work table, and there is also a large 
enameled sink with draining board. Be- 
tween the large screened-in porch and the 
kitchen is placed the refrigerator, being filled 
with ice from the outside. The refrigerator 
doors open into the kitchen. Many times 
a day the cold storage has to be gone to, 
and this is an important matter, to have it 
right at hand. You will find that there is not 
any more ice consumed in a summer, than 
if the ice chest were in the cellar. Why 
should steps be multiplied in going to it ? 
The kitchen in the labor-saving, planned 
house is small. The more articles you can 
reach with fewest steps, the lighter your 
work will be. 

Did you ever examine the kitchen of a 
dining car ? It is a model of condensed 
conveniences. A narrow kitchen is a great 
labor-saver. One does not realize this until 
she prepares a meal in the large, square, 
old-fashioned kitchen; the extra steps count 
as miles in a day. '' Each kitchen of this 
type has its Moloch in the cook stove, be- 
fore which a passing train of hired girls in- 
cessantly do homage. ' ' 

A high office stool and a low rocker must 
be one of the furnishings of this kitchen. 
It is sometimes better to sit while working 
and a high stool is convenient. 

In this servantless house there must be 
the elimination of all that speaks of toil. 
"Home is pecuharly the place of rest; 
though the birthplace of all industries." 
As to furniture, "the stiff, spider-legged 
tables and its insect family of chairs, the 
'things that creak when we sit down and tip 
over when we get up," must be banished 
from the great homey living room. No 
house is complete without beautiful pic- 



tures, and this one has its full share. Have 
as little bric-a-brac as possible; for remem- 
ber you are your own maid, and dust will 
gather and spiders spin their webs. A 
model laundry is in the basement. 

Mrs. N. W. Lyons. 
* # * 

Things Many Do Not Know How 
to Use 

WHILE wandering about suburban 
places one sees so many things 
that seem worth saving. Apples and 
pears, tomatoes and other garden vege- 
tables are left to waste, because labor 
is so expensive. Other things may be 
seen that the owners do not know how 
to use. Fine suburban estates come in 
time to change hands and be cut up 
into building lots, and many things val- 
uable to the former owners fall into disuse. 
Near an old estate in Philadelphia may be 
seen a fine sassafras tree, the shoots and 
tender leaves of which make gumbo file to 
flavor and thicken soups. Near by was a 
big stump with a great mass of tender 
oyster mushrooms just right to eat. Down 
by the vegetable garden the httle husk 
tomato or ground cherry was growing, and 
if allowed to spread would in time yield 
enough to use for pies and preserves. Grape 
vine leaves were there to be used for the 
covering of catsups, chopped pickles and 
all such things. The leaves must be tucked 
inside the bottle or jar just before sealing. 
There is something in the quality of the 
leaf of the vine that helps keep the sub- 
stance below from change and discoloration. 

On many places there are Japan quin- 
ces, the well-known flowering pyrus ja- 
ponica, which comes so early in the spring. 
These fruits may be used for jelly alone or 
combined with apples. Barberrries and 
mountain ash berries may be used in pre- 
serves, as also the wild hawthorn, and other 
varieties of our wild "haws." On many 
places there are fine persimmons, which 
one must seek after frosts have made them 
sweet. 

Apropos of mushrooms, when once puff- 
ball have been used, and the red beef- 



242 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



steak mushroom, which grows out from 
trees Hke big red tongues, then these very 
safe species of fungi may be added to the 
menu. 

So from spring to late autumn there are 
plants we might make use of, and even 
odd bitter fruits have some use ; for instance, 
the wild cherry, so often made into cordial 
or bounce, may be made into jelly with 
apples. One lady made some in her 
Massachusetts summer home, and sent it 
by express to another city, because she 
liked the combination so much. Again, 
elderberries may be canned for pies. They 
are cheaper than blueberries, and have a 
richer flavor. They may be mixed with 
apples, or crab apples, or green grapes to 
good advantage. 

The fruit of the ornamental, yellow- 
leaved elderberry, often grown for contrast 
with red and dark green shrubbery, is much 
larger than the wild fruit. When one has 
not black currants or mulberries, these el- 
derberries may come into play for a novel 
jelly. Mulberries in some sections are 
not eaten on account of the idea that they 
are very unhealthful, and the writer was 
thought to be very strange, because she 
gathered ripe mulberries and allowed her 
young children to eat them. They were 
very ripe, clean and free from any insects, 
a delicious fruit. 

Nasturtium seeds are now so much 
used in pickles that they are on sale at 
city markets. The stems are used in many 
salads, and the blossoms also. The stems 
can be chopped and added to a salad of 
grape fruit and white grapes, celery and 
lettuce, also white California grapes, if 
liked. It is dressed with oil and light 
wine, instead of vinegar, and the usual salt 
and white pepper. This salad is named 
for England's queen, ''Alexandra." 

Julia Davis Chandler. 
* * * 

Jelly Bag 

I HAVE a jelly bag which has proved a 
great convenience during the fruit sea- 
son. It is made of white flannel, is cone 



shaped with a wide hem at the top through 
which a wire is slipped holding the top in 
place. When the cooked fruit is removed 
from the stove, I press it as fine as possible 
with a wire potato masher, then throw it 
into the bag which is hung on two hooks 
on the lower side of a pantry shelf, with 
a stone jar beneath it to catch the juice. 
By the next morning the fruit will have 
drained dry without any further pressing. 

G. L. S. 
# * * 

Holding the Saucer 

DID you know that there is a correct 
and an incorrect way to hold the 
saucer in which your teacup rests ? The 
correctness consists in whether or not it is 
held gracefully. Watch the women at an 
afternoon tea and you will see that not all, 
indeed few, handle the cup and saucer in 
the most engaging way. Here is the se- 
cret : Instead of holding the saucer with 
the four fingers placed beneath it and the 

thumb above the rim as nearly every 

woman does — form a half-circle with the 
thumb and first finger, clasping the saucer 
in it, and giving a slight support from be- 
low with the third and fourth fingers. A 
woman who does this may have the largest 
hands in the room, but they will appear 
the most graceful and charmingly man- 
aged. 

^ ^ ^ 

AMONG old-world customs of the 
Christmas festival that have long 
fallen into desuetude is that of holding up 
hands and spoons in remembrance of ab- 
sent friends. There is a reference to this 
in a letter to the poet Herrick's uncle : — 
"And the same day (St. Stephen's Day) 
we were busy hollding up hands and 
spoones to yow, owt of porredge and 
pyes, to the remembraunce of yowre gt. 
lyberality of frute and spice, which God 
send yow long lyffe to contynew, for of 
that day we have not myssed anny St. 
Stephen this 47 yeare to have as many 
gastes as my howse woolld hoUd, I thank 
God for yt. " 



TOLD THROUGH THE MAIL 



243 



Told Through the Mail 

( Concluded from page 321) 

morning," and he abruptlyleft the room. 

''The great goose !" said Mabel, with 
curhng lips and shining eyes, "I'd hate 
to live with such a literal person." 

' ' Well, you do n' t have to, ',' I flippantly 
retorted, and Mabel slipped out of the 
room, her cheeks even redder than usual. 
In a few minutes she came up with a dainty 
lunch of toast and soft boiled egg for baby. 

Mabel is becoming a famous cook. 
Everything she touches with her magic 
wand, turns into something palatable and 
nutritious. Until tomorrow, good-bye, 

Marian. 

MiLTONVILLE, Sept. 13th. 

Dear Girl : 

The doctor and Mabel had another en- 
counter this morning. She deliberately 
trampled upon what she knew to be his 
pet theory, and he rose to the bait. Ma- 
bel defended her position as warmly as 
though she really believed in it, and he 
finally got up abruptly and left the house. 

' ' Why do you aggravate him so ? " I 
asked her. **You know you did not 
mean a word you said. ' ' 

''Because I wanted to shake his ad- 
herence to time worn creeds ! " she ex- 
claimed. 

' ' And do you think you have suc- 
ceeded? " I asked. 

She shook her head, and fell to musing. 
About Jack Crowell, I suspect, though 
she assures me that she is as far as ever 
from accepting his "old dog tray " devo- 
tion. It 's a pity, too, for it would be a 
suitable match. You remember Jack, 
don' t you ? Their two families are very 
intimate. He is rich, clever, and fond 
of the same things that Mabel likes. They 
agree like a pair of turtle doves except on 
the one proposition, that of marriage. 

Yours, Marian. 

MiLTONVILLE, SePT. 15th. 

Dearest Lela : 

Only two days more of this "solitary 
confinement ! ' ' Only it is not solitary. 



since I have my little one, and Mabel, and 
can wave and throw kisses to my two 
small men as they pass on their way to 
and from school, and can talk from the 
back door to Billy. 

The time has not been weary, for I have 
been too happy over it being a mild case 
of the fever, and my days have been en- 
livened by the quarrels of Mabel and Dr. 
Howard. 

Yesterday morning, after their fierce 
dispute of the day before, Mabel was 
exercising on the back porch when the 
doctor came. He looked around the 
room expectantly when he came in, the 
light of battle in his keen gray eyes, and 
his mouth set in a firm line. But as 
Mabel was not there, his face relaxed into 
the tender look it always wears when he 
addresses the baby, — he must love chil- 
dren, — that man ! 

In a few minutes Mabel came in, glow- 
ing from her exercise, and I have never 
seen her so beautiful as she was at that 
moment. Her hair had caught the glint 
of the September sunshine, as it fluffed 
around her rosy face. Her eyes reflected 
the deep blue of the skies, and in her face, 
and the blithesome grace of her body, 
was expressed health, happiness and soul. 
She was enough to make a man catch his 
breath, particularly a man bred on a poor- 
farm, an inheritor of everything the oppo- 
site of what she represented, a plodder, a 
laborer, and a voluntary exile from society. 

To my surprise, she crossed the room 
and graciously shook hands with him. 
Then, dropping into a chair, she began, 
with the audacity common to her, to 
argue on the subject of the day before, 
eloquently taking the opposite stand from 
the one she had taken before, and seeking 
to convince him. 

His face was a study ! Amazement, 
anger, and fierce resentment chased them- 
selves across it, as he sought to stem the 
tide of her words, for he had never been 
taught that it is rude to interrupt people. 
Wh en confronted with her duplicity and 
change of heart, she indignantly denied it, 
and claimed the triumph of bringing him 



244 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



to her side of the question. 

You see, Lela, he has never met many 
women, except professionally, and Mabel 
is so foreign to anything he has ever seen 
before, that he simply cannot fathom her 
mind. 

In his bewilderment, he changed the 
subject, and told .me the blessed news of 
our release two days from now. I will 
disinfect this, add to it, and mail it, after 
the house is fumigated. 

Mabel will stay a week longer, and then 
she will flit to gayer scenes. She has 
been like a spirit of gladness to me in this 
experience, and I feel powerless to repay 
it. 

Somehow, I think Mabel's flittings are 
rather pathetic. She told me, the other 
day, that, her actions to the contrary, she 
did not have wander-lust. But you know, 
as do I, that the second Mrs. Pemberton 
would stifle all the joyousness that so en- 
dears Mabel to her friends, if she lived 
for long in that stagnating atmosphere. 

She is one of those oppressively good 
women who has n't a soul above her din- 
ner, and her church. Her stuffy breath- 
ing alone would drive one into deUrium 
tremens, if one had to listen to it days on 
end continuously. 

Mabel is too loyal, and too really ap- 
preciative of the creature comforts which 
her step-mother has brought into the 
home for her father, foi her to ridicule 
Mrs. Pemberton. But knowing Mrs. 
Pemberton, and knowing Mabel, I drav/ 
my own conclusions. 

Yours, 

Marian. 

Sept. i6th. 
Lela dear : 

The doctor dropped in this morning for 
a few minutes. I was scarcely looking 
for him, as our invalid has been for sev- 
eral days busily employed in cutting out 
paper dolls, and in other ways amusing 
herself, quite as she does in her well 
days. He seemed a little embarrassed, 
and in his clumsy way gave me to under- 
stand that he " bunched " his visits, and 



did not charge for unnecessary ones. 

Mabel seemed a little depressed this 
morning, and did not begin any argument 
with him. He looked at her a good deal, 
I suppose because he kept expecting her 
to begin one, and wanted to be in when 
the gong sounded for the start. 

He only stayed a short time, and re- 
marked casually, when he left that he 
might drop in the next morning to give 
us some final instructions regarding our 
preparations for fumigation. 

Mabel did not say anything, but I 
fancied she looked bored. She will pro- 
bably be glad to be reUeved of these 
morning visits. 

Yours, 

Marian. 

September, 17th. 
My Dear : 

Hear we are, a reunited family ! My 
arms had actually ached to hug my men 
again, big and little, — and we had a 
regular little love feast together, I tell 
you ! 

Mabel went for a walk just before the 
men folks got here. She felt the need 
of a walk, she said, but I think it was 
just her tact which suggested that we 
would hke to be alone for a little while. 
Until tomorrow, when I will wind up this 
letter, 

Good-bye, 

Marian. 

September i8th. 
Dearest Lela : 

Well, the most unimaginable thing has 
happened ! But t must not get ahead of 
my story. Yesterday, when Mabel re- 
turned from her walk. Dr. Howard was 
with her. They stood out in front for a 
long time talking, and I thought, ''They 
are having one of their arguments, and 
both of them are very much in earnest 
about it." 

Billy and the two boys had scattered 
around to re- familiarize themselves with 
the beloved premises of home, and baby 
and I were alone in the library when Ma- 



A CRY IN THE MARKET PLACE 



245 



bel finally came in, her cheeks aglow, 
and her eyes shining like sapphire stars. 
'' You must have gotten the best of it, this 
time," I commented. 

'' I think I have," she said, so softly 
that I could scarcely hear, "much, much 
the best of it," and she sat down with- 
out taking off her wraps,' her hands 
loosely clasped around her knees, and her 
eyes looking straight into the coals of the 
open grate fire. 

''What was it about?" I asked, to re- 
call her. ''Theosophy, surgery, or some 
other subject of which you are ignorant?" 

The flush stole farther up her cheeks, 
till even her small ears seemed crimsoned, 
as she bravely replied, Hfting up her 
head, ' ' It was love, of which we spoke. ' ' 

''Love," I scoffed in my bhndness, 
"what do you two celibates know of 
love ! Now, Billy and I could instruct you 
on that subject." 

' ' Oh vainest of women, "she said proud- 
ly. " Have you copyrighted love ? Can no 
one infringe on your patent, yours and 
Billy's?" 



Then a light began to dawn on my un- 
derstanding, and I could only gasp, ' ' Do 
you mean ? ' ' 

"Yes," she said, a sweet gravity in 
voice and face, "I mean that I He and 
I have decided to argue through the rest 
of our lives," — this last with a happy 
little laugh. 

In my stupidity I exclaimed, "But 
Mabel, you have not fully considered this. 
Do you realize the sacrifices it will en- 
tail ? You will have to live in this little 
town, without a single convenience, not 
even a servant !" 

Her face became glorified when she re- 
pHed with simple dignity, "I have con- 
sidered only — him ! It is all I ask, to 
love and be loved by him." 

Then I gave it up, Lela, for you 
know the years are few since I considered 
only — Billy! And when I looked in 
Mabel's eyes, and saw the light that never 
was on land or sea, I knew it was final. 
For have I not had the same experience, 
and has not Billy sufficed for everything ! 

Marian, 



A Cry in the Market Place 

By CHESTER FIRKINS 

[In the Atlantic Monthly) 

I cry, by right of my ungotten sons 

I cannot pray; — there is no time to kneel. 
(Can the spoke stop the whizzing of the wheel? 

Can the cast coal in the red forge protest?) 

I cry, by my dead fathers, of the West, 
Who, in their dire travail, yet could feel 
The wild, clean pulse of Nature in the peal 

Of storm upon the lordly mountain-crest. 



I cry, by right of my ungotten sons. 

For respite, for some slacking of the pace, 

Some quiet in this rage of life that stuns 

The Soul for slaughter in the Market Place; 

I cry, in pity for the little ones, 

Whose shriveled shoulders must bear on the Race. 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamps; for menus, ^i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
'Editor Bosi^on Cooking- School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Boston Cooking School Magazine : 

Dear Sirs : — I notice in your Magazine 
for October an article from the pen of L. 
M. C. entitled, ''A Mexican Cure for Ma- 
laria, in which the bean from the Castor- 
bean plant is highly recommended as a cure 
for malaria. — ■ I feel that I should write 
you that this is a very questionable cure — I 
know a friend who ate several of the beans 
from a plant growing in his own yard, and 
in his case they proved to be very poison- 
ous, and it was through the niost careful 
attention of several physicians, for days, 
that his life was spared. I have heard of 
several such cases, but in the one I write 
of, I know to a surety, the beans caused 
poisoning. Very truly yours, 

Mrs. M. H. J. 

Boston Cooking School Magazine : 

I want to answer query 1285 in October 
Magazine. Wild plums can be made into 
jelly — but the jelly has a strong, unpleas- 
ant flavor to most people ; used with crab- 
apples, both are improved ; one-third as 
much plum as apple is a good proportion. 
I cook the plums, separately, with almost no 
water, and mash or squeeze. Cook apples 
with just enough water to see. Drain — 
or squeeze — take the same measure of 
sugar as juice. Boil the juice half an 
hour. Add the sugar hot, boil and skim. 
Following these directions and having crisp 
apples, I never fail. 

Respectfully, 

Emily H. Bright. 



From a recently published bulletin of 
the Wisconsin Experiment Station, on 
' ' Preserving native fruits and vegetables, ' ' 
we have clipped the following recipe. The 
writer of the bulletin also says, the flavor 
of our native plums and apples, while not 
always pleasant when eaten fresh, will, 
when preserved, either alone or mixed 
with other kinds, impart a pleasant wild 
flavor to the jelly or preserves. 

New Way of Making Plum Jelly 

Place the fruit dry in jars. Two-quart 
jars are good for this purpose. Either 
place the jars in the oven on Asbestos pa- 
per or in a fruit steamer, and cook till the 
fruit is tender. Take out and strain 
through a flannel bag. Add as much 
sugar as juice, and stir until the sugar is 
dissolved. Place on the back of the 
stove and heat slowly ( ' ' and let boil ' ' 
we suppose is meant) until it forms jelly- 
drops on the spoon. During boiling skim 
carefully. It will take but a little boiling 
as this is pure juice. This process pro- 
duces the clearest and finest plum jelly. 

The pulp may be used for jams or but- 
ter, by straining through a sieve and ad- 
ding an equal amount of sugar and beat- 
ing slowly till thick enough. Place in 
jars and seal as usual. 



Query 1303.— Mrs. T. B. W. " How can As- 
pic Jelly be made, without using gelatine, to hold 
its shape when cut into cubes or turned from 
fancy moulds ? " 



246 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



247 



Aspic Jelly without Gelatine 

By cooking a clarified broth — especially 
of veal or chicken — at a low heat in an 
open saucepan, until it is much reduced, a 
firm jelly may be produced. However, in 
this way the volatile flavor of the meat and 
vegetables is dissipated and a very concen- 
trated product of strong flavor results. 
Before gelatine was as common and cheap 
as it is to-day, a calf s foot was often 
cooked in the broth to be used for jelly, 
but at the present time aspic jelly can be 
made of better flavor and much more easily, 
if commercial gelatine be employed. For 
recipe see page 229. 



Query 1304. — A. H. Harlem, N. Y. " Why is 
it that sometimes cream will not whip, even after 
much time is spent upon it and a pinch of corn- 
starch has been added to it." 

Whipping Thin Cream 
Milk can not be whipped to a firm froth. 
The cream in question probably contained 
too small a proportion of cream to make 
whipping possible.- Do not understand 
why the addition of any quantity of corn- 
starch should help the matter. 



Query 1305. — Mrs. M. H., Detroit, Michigan. 
" Recipe for Green Corn Salad to keep all winter. 
In the recipe, I specially wish, the corn is cooked 
and the cabbage uncooked, and ground mustard is 
used. Will you also tell us something of blend- 
ing spices ? " 

Pickled Sweet Corn 

Chop one head of cabbage; sprinkle 
over it two teaspoonfuls of salt and let 
stand over night. Cut the kernels from 
twelve ears of corn; chop two peppers and 
mix corn and peppers with the cabbage. 
Scald half a gallon of vinegar; add one 
cup of sugar and one-fourth a pound of 
ground mustard, thoroughly mixed together 
and stirred smooth in a little cold vinegar. 
Pour the hot vinegar over the prepared 
vegetables and cover closely. 

Blending Spices 
We scarcely know what is desired under 



the phrase, ''blending spices." In plum 
pudding, mince-pies, fruit and spice cakes, 
clove, cinnamon and nutmeg or mace, are 
often used. Clove, being stronger than 
the others, must be used in smaller quantity, 
or that flavor will predominate. These 
spices, one or more of them, but especially 
cinnamon and clove, as also vanilla, are 
used in chocolate preparations. Some- 
times o'-^nge and lemon juice are recom- 
mended for use with chocolate, but this is 
a mistake, candied orange or lemon peel 
might be thus used, but the spices or 
vanilla are preferable. 

Fresh and dried sweet herbs are valuable 
in cookery, but are not as commonly used 
as formerly, through lack of knowledge 
concerning them. A five-cent package of 
seed from assorted varieties of herbs will 
produce enough herbs to last a small family 
a year. Of these basil is preferable with 
shell and other fish, marjoram and thyme 
are used with poultry and game, mint 
with lamb, and sage with goose and pork. 
Fennel seed is used with fish and its plume- 
like fohage is one of the handsomest of 
garnishes. 



Query 1306. — Mrs, W. W., New York City. 
" Kindly publish something on the conservation 
and use of fats ; how to preserve them, how to 
obtain them from suet, etc. Should a good cook, 
one who is thrifty, go to the expense of buying 
lard or cottolene ? Would like detailed instruc- 
tions for boiling rice, to have it fluffy, dry, and each 
flake separate. Under what circumstances can 
you economize cooking with butter and use either 
a mixture of butter and fat, or entirely fat ? Also 
how may salted mackerel, halibut and salmon be 
prepared ? " 

Conservation and Use of Fats 

We think even the economical and thrifty 
cook will find it necessary to buy lard, cot- 
tolene or some other form of prepared fat, 
but much depends on the time at one's dis- 
posal and, also, whether the preparation of 
the fat can be done without additional cost 
for fuel. 

Each cook must determine this matter 
for herself What one finds expedient an- 
other will not. 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



In cold weather bits of fat may be kept 
for several days, sometimes a week, and all 
be put into a condition for use at the same 
time. In hot weather this is not possible. 
The fat from lamb and mutton is not often 
used for anything but soap making. The 
taste of smoke can not be eradicated from 
the fat of ham and bacon, and these can 
not be used in flour preparations. Such fat 
may be used at discretion in cooking meats 
or potatoes and mush served with meats. 
Mild-cured bacon fat, extracted at a low 
temperature, (bacon is often cooked at too 
high a temperature) and carefully poured 
from the sediment in the pan, is very useful. 
It will keep in good condition several weeks, 
stored in a cool place. Chicken and turkey 
fat, properly clarified, as also the fat from 
the top of the soup kettle or water in which 
corned or fresh beef was boiled, are good 
for warming potatoes and making sauces. 
The fat taken from the water in which 
corned or fresh beef has been boiled, 
after being clarified, is good for frying 
doughnuts, fritters and the like. 

How Prepare Fat from Suet, Etc. 

Cut the fat in small pieces, cover with cold 
water and let stand over night; pour off this 
water, add fresh water or milk — a cup to 
each two pounds of fat — and let cook very 
slowly until the pieces are light brown in 
color, and the fat is clear and still (no 
sound of bubbling or cooking). Strain 
through a cloth and press the fat from the 
pieces for a second quality of fat. 

Fat from Cooked Meat, the Soup 
Kettle, Etc, 

When the liquid is cold, remove the fat 
to a saucepan, add part or a whole cup of 
cold water and let cook slowly until the 
water has evaporated and the sound of 
cooking has ceased, then strain through 
a cloth. Much of the flavor and odor of 
the fat passes off in the water during its 
evaporation. 

Under What Conditions to 

Economize with Butter 
Fat is a necessary item of food and butter 



is the form in which the majority of people 
like to get it; thus we should begin to econ- 
omize in butter after economy in other 
matters. Cake is a luxury akin to confec- 
tionery, and we would begin to practice 
economy on cake. In making sauces use 
clarified fat from the soup kettle, as the 
medium for cooking the flour, then beat in 
a few tiny bits of butter to the finished 
sauce, for the flavor. Many vegetables, as 
peas, beans, spinach, etc. , may be seasoned 
with salt pork or bacon. Salt pork fat is 
one of the best forms of fat for cooking fish, 
poultry, veal and lamb. The fat from mild- 
cured bacon may be used for the same 
purpose. 

How to Boil Rice 

Wash one cup of rice in cold water, 
rubbing the rice between the hands and 
changing the water several times. Put two 
quarts of water over the fire, with a tea- 
spoonful of salt and when the water boils, 
add the washed rice and stir, to keep it 
from sticking to the bottom of the pan. 
When the water again boils, discontinue 
the stirring. Cover and let boil rapidly 
about twenty minutes, or until the grains 
are well swelled out. Drain off the water 
(use in soup) and set the saucepan into 
the oven for ten minutes, that the rice 
may dry off, not brown. Then pour into 
a dish. The above is a Creole recipe. 
Boiled in this way, the kernels will be light, 
dry and fluffy, but the grains will not be 
as soft as northern cooks desire them. 
However, soft grains mat together and do 
not show as distinctly as southern cookery 
demands. 

Salted Mackerel, Halibut and 
Salmon 

Salted Mackerel should He in cold water 
over night to freshen; salmon, being thick- 
er, needs to stand in the cold water from 
thirty-six to forty-eight hours. Then cover 
with lukewarm water and let heat gradually 
to the boiling point; then at once remove 
to a cooler part of the range and let stand, 
where the water is kept just below the boil- 
ing point, about half an hour. Serve with 



A DVERTISEMENTS 



Basting as an Art 

By MARY JANE McCLURE 

It is a far cry from June to November. The happy, care-free girl who floated to the altar in the 
month of roses, by Thanksgiving day has grown into a woman. Fall finds this young woman 
grappling with grim details. This does not mean that all the poetry has been blotted out of exist- 
ence—although it may turn out that way if the woman in the case lacks adjustability. By studying 
how to do the most ordinary work about the house as an art instead of considering it drudgery, the 
triumphant strains of the wedding march may be kept indefinitely and incessantly thrilling an 
accompaniment of joy that will transform the petty details of the daily household routine into -fas- 
cinating fun. Basting, for instance, is looked upon as most commonplace. Studied deeply it 
appears to be a science and an art. 



THE art of basting is based on certain definite 
fundamental principles of chemical action. 
For instance, the juices of meat largely are 
composed of water. As soon as the meat or fowl 
reaches the boiling point in the oven — 212 degrees — 
the water will evaporate. Unless compensation is made 
for the evaporation the meat will become dried and 
desiccated. This difficulty is overcome by basting. 

A number of materials are employed in basting. 
Fresh butter, clarified suet, minced sweet herbs, 
butter and stock, cream and 

melted butter (especially for f"'" -"-^ 

flayed pigs); yolks of eggs, 
grated biscuits and the juice 
of oranges, and Arm.our's 
Extract of Beef, are some of the 
dredgings used to improve 
the flavor of roast meats and 
fowls. Use Armour's Extract 
of Beef liberally in the gravy for 
basting the Thanksgiving turkey. 
It not only preserves the natural 
juices, but at the same time im- 
parts a coaxing, luring flavor 
that thrills the soul of an epicure 
and wooes the ordinary mortal 
to over-eat. 

Stuff the turkey, after clean- 
ing and preparing it, with a 
dressing made of soft bread or 
cracker crumbs highly seasoned 
with sage, thyme, salt and pep- 
per. Moisten the dressing with 
half a cupful of melted butter 
and hot water enough to make 
it quite soft, to which has been 
added Armour's Extract of Beef 
in the proportion of one-fourth 
teaspoonful to each cupful of 
water. Add one well -beaten 
egg. 

Rub the turkey well with but- 
ter and dredge with salt, pepper 
and flour. Place, breast down- 
"W'ard, on a rack in the roasting 
pan. Use a rack smaller than 
the pan to admit the free use 
of the spoon in basting. When the back is a light 
brown, turn it over and let the breast and sides 
brown in a similar manner. Do not put any water 
In the pan during the searing process, which will 




require from 15 to 30 minutes. As soon as this is 
done close the damper and add a pint of water, two 
round solid tablespoonfuls of butter, and one -half 
teaspoonful of Armour's Extract of Beef. As the 
water is renewed add butter and Beef Extract in the 
same proportions. About a quart of water will be 
required in roasting a turkey. A solid cupful of but- 
ter may be used to advantage in the whole stuffing 
and baking. Less will do, but it is not wise to be too 
economical with butter at this time. Keep the turkey 
^ well turned to the heat.. ^ It 

"1 must be kept moist and free 
'I from the least scorching, shriv- 
I eling or blistering. Baste with 
the top of the gravy so the skin 
may be kept well buttered. 
About thirty minutes before 
taking it up rub over it a table- 
spoon packed solid with butter. 
Baste every ten minutes, dredg- 
ing with flour after each bast- 
ing. When the joints separate 
easily the cooking is completed. 
If the heat of the oven is as 
great as the turkey will bear 
with frequent bastings, and is 
kept steady and firm, a seven- 
pound turkey will cook just 
right in two hours. With the 
oven at the proper temperature 
twenty minutes to the pound 
should be allowed. When 
done the turkey should be 
coated with a crispy, frothy, 
brown, crumbling crust which 
will break off in shells with the 
carving. If the breast is larded 
with bacon or pork it will not 
be necessary to baste the turkey 
so frequently. Garnish with 
tiny fried sausages, forcemeat 
balls or rolls of bacon. 

If turkey is to be served cold 
it should be glazed. Dissolve 
one-half ounce of gelatine in 
one pint of water, flavoring 
and coloring it with one tea- 
spoonful of Armour's Extract of Beef. Let the 
turkey be perfectly cold before applying the glaze. 
Allow the first coating to dry before applying the 
second. The glaze must be applied warm with a brush. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
ix 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



plain, boiled potatoes and egg or pickle 
sauce. 

Remnants of fish picked into bits may 
be added to twice the bulk of cold, boiled 
potatoes, chopped fine, for fish hash. 
Moisten this with a Httle drawn butter 
sauce, left over, or use hot water and fin- 
ish with a piece of butter. A cup of any 
one of these varieties of fish may be served 
in three-fourths a cup of cream sauce, as 
creamed fish. Mix half a cup of the 
cooked fish, picked in bits, through a cup 
of mashed potato ; shape into small, flat 
cakes, roll these in flour, and fry in salt 
pork or bacon fat. Or, without rolling in 
flour, set on to a buttered pan, put a tea- 
spoonful of butter on the top of each cake 
and set the dish into the oven, to make the 
cakes hot and brown. Fish souffle, call- 
ing for eggs, is a more expensive way of 
using left-over fish. 



Query 1307.— E. T. S., Washington, D. C. 
"In the recipe for " Sponge Jelly Roll," given in 
the magazine for April, 1906, no sugar is given. 
What quantity is required ? " 

Sponge Jelly Roll 

Sift together, three times, one cup of 
sifted flour, a scant half a teaspoonful of salt 
and two level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der. Beat two eggs until light ; gradually 
beat in one cup of sugar, and then the 
flour mixture. Lastly, beat in a grating 
of lemon rind, or a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract, and one-third a cup of hot milK. 
Bake in a pan, about eight by twelve in- 
ches, about fifteen or eighteen minutes. 
Turn the cake on to a cheese cloth; trim off" 
the crisp edges, spread the bottom of the 
cake with currant or other fruit jelly and 
carefully roll the cake over and over. Keep 
the cloth between the cake and the fin- 
gers. 



Query 1308. — G. K. G., London, Ontario, 
Canada. " Recipe for Potato Cake." 

German Potato Pancake 

In a hot, well-oiled or buttered frying- 
pan grate enough bofled potato, either hot 



or cold, but preferably hot, to cover the 
bottom of the dish to the depth of half 
an inch. Dredge very lightly with salt, 
then pour over a batter made of one cup 
of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, 
two well-beaten eggs and nearly a cup of 
milk. Use enough of the batter to cover 
the potato. When the pancake is full of 
bubbles and browned beneath, turn and 
brown the other side. 



Query 1309.— 1.. S., Detroit, Mich. Recipes 
for Simple Steamed Pudding. Apple Ginger, and 
Cookies v^-ithout eggs." 



What Was It 



The Woman Feared ? 



What a comfort to find it is not ''the 
awful thing ' ' feared, but only chronic in- 
digestion, which proper food can relieve. 

A woman in Ohio says: 

"I was troubled for years with indi- 
gestion and chronic constipation. At 
times I would have such a gnawing in my 
stomach that I actually feared I had a — I 
dislike to write or even think of what I 
feared. 

" Seeing an account of Grape-Nuts, I 
decided to try it. After a short time I 
was satisfied the trouble was not the awful 
thing I feared but was still bad enough. 
However, I was relieved of a bad case of 
dyspepsia, by changing from improper food 
to Grape-Nuts. 

' ' Since that time my bowels have been 
as regular as a clock. I had also noticed 
before I began to eat Grape- Nuts that I 
was becoming forgetful of where I put little 
things about the house, which was very 
annoying. 

"But since the digestive organs have 
become strong from eating Grape-Nuts, 
my memory is good and my mind as clear 
as when I was young, and I am thankful. " 
Name given by Postum Co. , Battle Creek, 
Mich. Read the Httle booklet, "The 
Road to Wellville, " in packages. "There's 
a Reason." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




What more seasonable luxury, what rarer treat, than a 
piece of luscious, juicy mince pie — such as is made with 

HEIN2 

Mince Meat 

The choicest beef; rich, white suet; sound, juicy, flawless 
apples ; Four-Crown Valencia confection raisins carefully seeded ; 
plump Grecian currants, each one actually cleansed J^y itself; 
Leghorn candied citron, orange and lemon peel; the purest spices 
brought, from every quarter of the globe — these, 
blended with facilities not available to the house- 
wife, tell the secret of that piquant goodness and un- 
usual flavor for which Heinz Mince Meat is famous. 

If you wish to make sure of having a real mince 
pie, try one baking with Heinz Mince Meat. 
Put up in Heinz Improved Tins, 
also in crocks and glass jars. 



L:. 



^W-E::3?2i 



37 



Are put up without coloring 
matter or nreservatives. 



Ofher Heinz dainties for Winter are Cranberry Sauce, Sweet 
Pickles, Euchred Figs, Tomato Chutney, Apple Butter, 
Preserved Fruits, etc. Let us send our booklet telling 
about all of He/nz good things and how we make them. 

H. J. HEINZ COMPANY, 

New York Pittsburgh Chicago London 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Apple-and-Brown Bread Pudding 

Use Boston brown bread or graham 
bread, the first being preferable. Mix two- 
thirds a cup of fine-chopped suet with two 
cups of the bread crumbs; add two cups 
of apples chopped fine after paring and 
coring, half a teaspoonful of salt, a cup of 
raisins seeded, cut in pieces and dredged 
with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a 
teaspoonful of ginger or mace. Beat one 
egg, add a cup of milk and stir into the dry 
ingredients. Steam in a buttered mould 
about two hours and a half. Serve hot 
with hard or brandy sauce, or with 

Creamy Sauce 

Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup of 
water to the soft ball stage; then pour 
the syrup in a fine stream onto the beaten 
white of an egg and continue beating until 
very cold; then fold in one cup of double 
cream beaten dry, and vanilla or sherry 
as desired. 

Apple Ginger 

Peel two ounces of green ginger root 
and chop it fine; grate the yellow rind of 
four lemons and extract the juice, discard- 
ing the seeds. Make a syrup of four 
pounds of sugar and one pint of water; add 
to it the ginger, the lemon rind and juice 
and five pounds of pared -and-cored ap- 
ples, chopped fine. Let simmer, stirring 
occasionally, about an hour, or until the 
mixture is thick like marmalade. Store as 
jelly. 

Christmas Fruit Cookies 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then 
beat in half a cup of raisins, chopped fine, 
and gradually, three tablespoonfuls of 
milk. Sift together two cups of flour, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of soda, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of ground cloves, 
and grated nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful 
of ground cinnamon. Add the flour mix- 
ture to the first mixture and as much more 
flour as is needed to make a stiff dough. 
Roll a portion into a sheet and cut into 



rounds. Bake one, and, if it spreads too 
much in baking, add more flour until the 
mixture holds its shape. 



A traveller in the dining car of a Georgia 
railroad had ordered fried eggs for break- 
fast. ''Can't give yo' fried aigs, boss," 
the negro waiter informed him, "lessen 
yo' want to wait till we stops. " " Why, 
how is that?" "Well, de cook he says 
de road ' s so rough dat ebery time he tries 
to fry aigs dey scrambles. "— Zz/^. 



More Than Ever 

Increased Capacity for Mental Labor Since 
Leaving Off Coffee. 

Many former coffee drinkers who have 
mental work to perform, day after day, 
have found a better capacity and greater 
endurance by using Postum Food Coff'ee, 
instead of ordinary coffee. An Illinois 
woman writes: 

"I had drank coftee for about twenty 
years, and finally had what the doctor 
called "coffee heart," I was nervous and 
extremely despondent; had little mental or 
physical strength left, had kidney trouble 
and constipation. 

"The first noticeable benefit derived 
from the change from coffee to Postum 
was the natural action of the kidneys and 
bowels. In two weeks my heart action 
was greatly improved and my nerves 
steady. 

"Then I became less despondent, and 
the desire to be active again showed proof 
of renewed physical and mental strength. 

"I am steadily gaining in physical 
strength and brain power. I formerly 
did mental work and had to give it up on 
account of coffee, but since using Postum 
I am doing hard mental labor with less 
fatigue than ever before. ',' 

Name given by Postum Co., Battle 
Creek, Mich. Read the little book, "The 
Road to Wellville, " in pkgs. "There's 
a Reason." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BORDEN'S 




EAGLE BRAND 
Condensed MilK 



The Original 



Proven the Best for 




NURSERY and HOUSEHOLD 



BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK COMPANY, 



EST. 1857 



LEADERS OF QUALITY 



NEW YORK 



$100 for Cake Recipes 

BELL'S CHOCOLATE FROSTING 

We beg to announce that the prizes offered by us for Cake Recipes have been awarded by 
Mrs. Janet M. Hill, editor of the Boston Cooking School Magazine, as follows : 



$25.00 


Mrs. F. W. Davis, 


Ashburnham, Mass. 


2.50 


Mrs. Kate L. Totten, Lynn, Mass. 


15.00 


Miss Ruth Fisher, 


Methuen, Mass. 


2.50 


Mrs, F. L. Manning, South Poland, Me. 


10.00 


Miss M. E. Shalling, 


Stonington, Conn. 


2.50 


Mrs. Pearl "Wheaton, Putnam, Conn. 


5.00 


Miss Kate Haurahan, 


Warren, R. I 


2.50 


Miss Emily Hall, North Brewster^ Mass. 


5.00 


Mrs. Calvin Hall. 


Auburndale, Mass. 


2.50 


Madam Larion, "Worcester, Mass. 


5.00 


Mrs. P. S.Lehnert, 


Barnstable, Mass. 


2.50 


Miss Hattie E. M. Young, Boston, Mass. 


5.00 


Mrs. Rod Lynk, 


Guilford, Maine 


2.50 


Mrs. Annie Lutes, Fryeburg, Me. 


5.00 


Miss M. L. Hathaway 


, Providence, R. I. 


2.50 


Mrs. . B. Meader, Everett, Mass. 


2.50 


Miss Elizabeth Brown, 


Nashua, N. H. 


2.50 


Miss E. C. Burt, Lebanon, N. H. 



The above were selected out of more than T250 received. 
"We will mail you the prize recipes free upon request, 

BELL'S CHOCOLATE FROSTING is not a po^wder, nor a paste, but solid 
caKeS of purest cHocolate, Stlgair and flavox* carefully blended, and should not 

be compared with frostings made of cocoa j>OwdLeTS, from which it is impossible to 
obtain the richness and flavor usual in frosting made of good chocolate. It saves all the labox* 
and failtxres in making frosting at home, and costs l\0 more. Only a minute to frost 
your cake. 

Your grocer can supply you, or we will send prepaid a large package for 40c. 

J. S. Bell Confectionery Co. 

Cambrid^eport, Mass. 

The Trade Supplied by Boston Wholesale Grocers 



Buy advertised goods ■ 



- Do not accept substitutes 
xiii 



Book Reviews 



Selection and Preparation of Food. 

By Isabel Bevier and Anna R. VanMeter. 

Cloth. Price, 75 cents, net. Boston: 

Whitcomb & Barrows. 

This is a laboratory guide and is said to 
be the first text-book of college grade on 
this subject. The manual was prepared 
for the Department of Household Science 
of the University of Illinois. The courses, 
as given, continue through two semesters. 
In the first semester emphasis is placed 
upon the principles governing the selection 
and preparation of food. In the second 
semester a consideration of its economic 
and esthetic value is emphasized. The 
book seems well adapted as a guide to the 
subject in view — instruction in the domes- 
tic science laboratory. 



My Best 250 Recipes. By Mrs. S. T. 

Rorer. i2mo. Cloth. Price, 50 cents, net. 

Philadelphia : Arnold & Company. 

In this book Mrs. Rorer takes her fol- 
lowers into her confidence. She makes 
confession of her preference for certain 
favorite recipes, and then shares with them 
the knowledge. Here are 250, covering 
a wide field. For instance, there are her 
20 Best Soups, 20 Best Fish Recipes, 20 
Best Meats, 20 Best Salads, and so on 
through the many courses and divisions of 
a meal. They are all bound to be good, 
and no doubt will save many a housewife 
some hours of anxious planning. Of course 
the directions how to make and serve each 
dish are given in the plain and easily- 
understood manner that has made Mrs. 
Rorer' s work so acceptable during the 
years she has been before the American 
public. 



Sanitation in Daily Life. By Ellen 
H. Richards. Cloth. Price, 60 cents, 
net. Boston: Whitcomb & Barrows. 
These six chapters state succinctly the 

apphcation of sanitary science in the Hues 

of municipal and family house keeping. 

*' Sanitary science teaches that mode of 



life which promotes health and efficiency." 
The great good that would accrue from a 
wide-spread knowledge of sanitation and 
the practice of the same goes without say- 
ing. The foundations of health of body 
and mind depend upon right habits of 
living. Physical strength, capacity for 
work, efficiency, are the things desired by 
both men and women in these modern 
days; all these are dependent upon safe 
environments and modes of living. 

Read in every household, this book will 
be found helpful. As a text-book in the 
public schools it might well be introduced. 
References are given to all the best books 
on the subject of sanitation, which adds 
much to the practical value and usefulness 
of the manual itself. 



Home Life in All Lands. By Charles 
Morris. Cloth, 111. Price, ^i.oo, net. 
Phila. J. B. Lippincott Company. 
Mr. Morris writes entertainingly of the 
queer foods eaten by foreign peoples, of 
the strange clothing worn in far-away quar- 
ters of the world, of the curious customs 
practised in many countries, and on nu- 
merous other topics. This is the way to 
give life to geography. The study of the 
map and text-book needs to be followed by 
fuller information about the ways of the 
world and the habits of its peoples. And 





THE HOUSEHOLD 

DISINFECTANT 

Destroys dieeaae germs and foul gases. 

An odorless, colorless liquid sold in quart 

bottles oaly by druggists and high-class 

grocers. 

Manufactured bv Henry B. Piatt, at New 

Yort and Montreal. 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



^ 



BAKER'S 
fXTI^CTS, 

The next time you buy Vanilla, 
try 

^ Baker's 

W Vanilla 

Pure extract of vanilla beans, 
made by a new process. It gives 
your food a natural fruit flavor 
and is healthful. Unlike the 
chemical and water combinations 
so commonly sold as Vanilla. 
Your grocer can supply you if 
you ask : Baker's comes by 
asking. 

^ Complies with all Food Laws ^ 




^ 



1867 



1907 




40 Years 



Test 



xiimiimiimuxixniiniiiimin x x x ii iix iiixiTTTX i 



Quilted 
Mattress Pads 

Money spent wisely means comfort 
and pleasure to the spender. You 
go to bed to rest. 

Quilted Msittx*ess Pads 

will make your bed comfortable as 
well as keep yours and baby's bed 
in a perfect sanitary condition. 

The cost is small and when 
washed they are as good as new. 

Ask your Dry Goods dealer. 

EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO.. 

15 Lalght St., New York, N. Y. 



rrT-n«»I«»T»»IlTTT»TTt«T»t»II»lIIHI«ITTIITTTTTT»TTITTTII 



ELECTRO 
SILICON 

Is Unequalled for 

Cleaning and Polishing 

SILVERWARE. 

Send address for a FREE SAI>IPL,E, 

or 15 cents in stamps for a full box. 

Electro-Silicon Soap has equal merits. 

Thb Electro Silicon Co., 30 ClifE Street, New York, 

Grocers and Druggists sell it. 



JlilW 




wfl[PII(D 




THE TAPIOCA 
WITH THE 
PICTURE OF 
THE MINUTE MAN ON 
THE PACKAGE 



In how many ways have you used it, more 
than one or two.-* The Minute Cook Book 
gives i8 tested receipts for the use of Minute 
Tapioca. Start at the first one and go through 
the book. You will like them every one. 

Bear in mind, too, that Minute Tapioca 
isn't simply a dessert article, but a whole- 
some, delicious food, and the more generally 
it can be used, the better for health. Re- 
quires no soaking. Quickly cooked. 

If your grocer hasn't it, send his address 
and 4C. for enough to make one pint. 
Minute Cook Book FREE. 

l^Hitman Grocery Co., 

Dept. S Orange, Massachusetts 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 

XV 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



this book is offered as an aid to that end. 
In a somewhat devious and imaginary 
journey to the many peoples of the earth, 
the food, clothing, habitation, customs, 
etc. , are briefly described. As a supple- 
mentary reader, and for young students, 
the book is admirable. 



High Living. Price, 75 c, net. San Fran- 
cisco and New York. Paul Elder & Co. 
Being a compilation of Recipes from 
Southern Climes presented in a most in- 
teresting and attractive form, the book- 
let is quite unique. Many of the recipes 
are odd; some are rare; all are excellent. 
The booklet was originally published in 
favor of the worthy and philanthropic as- 
sociation of the Telegraph Hill Neighbor- 
hood of San Francisco; the future proceeds 
of the sales of ''High living," the pub- 
lishers state, will be distributed through 
the agency of the willing circle of King's 
Daughters. 



Aunt Jane of Kentucky. By Eliza 

Calvert Hall. 12 mo. Cloth, ^1.50. 

Boston: Little, Brown & Co. 

This is the book everybody is reading 
and wishing to read. President Roosevelt 
has publicly commended the book, of which 
he says: " It is very whoresome and attrac- 
tive. Be surq that you read it." The 
critics and reviewers are one in its praise. 

The book gives a picture of rural Ken- 
tucky life that is truly captivating. At the 
same time it is a keen and sympathetic study 
of characters, whose prototypes were once 
to be found in every community. But it is 



the genial kindly good nature of Aunt Jane, 
and her quaint philosophy, that keeps the 
reader in pleasant mood through every page 
of the nine chapters of the volume. Old- 
fashioned in scene, wholesome in content, 
modern in spirit, are its self-evident 
features. 



At the Year's End 

By Clinton Scollard 

At the year's end one saw before him rise 
Phantasmal presences. The first outcried, 
" I am the love that once you deified ! " 

" And I," the second said, with mocking sighs, 

" Am that ambition which, in splendid guise, 
Both day and night was ever by your side ; 
" And 1," a third exclaimed, reproachful-eyed, 

" Am that fair faith you cherished, precious wise." 

He met their glances, levelly, aware 

That each had uttered naught save truth, and 
yet 
He felt no smarting of remorse's stings. 
'T is thus with those brave souls who, stair by 
stair, 
Ascend the years, above all vain regret, 

To the triumphant heights of better things. 



Vegetarians 
Vegetarianism has got its grip on socie- 
ty, and has already commenced to make 
converts in numbers large enough to be 
encouraging to the evangelists of the cult 
of the bean-and-nut-food. — M. A. P. 



His Contribution 
Bacon — * ' Are you doing anything to 
relieve the sufferings of your neighbors ? ' ' 

Egbert — " Yes; I've just sold my phono- 
graph ! " — Yonkers Statesman. 



ASK YOUR DEALER for 

and insist on 
Having tHe 
genuine 




Sample Pair, Mercerized | 
25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed I 



CUSHION 



over two hundred styles. 
Wc m all over the world 

GEORGE FROST CO., Hakers. 



BUTTON 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

EVERY PAIR WARRANTED 

I nna/ FOR THE NAME AND THE . 
LUUlV MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON 

Boston, Mass., U. 5. A. 




Buy advertisedgoods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvi 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Fish 



more 



ful 



sea- 



than any other dish needs care 
soning. It is rendered more appetizing by 

Lea & Perrins' Sauce 

THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 

It is a delightful seasoning for Scalloped Oysters, Broiled 

Lobster, Cod Fish Balls and Stedks, Deviled 

Clams, Fish Salads, etc 



BEWARE OF 
IMITATIONS. 



John Duncan's Sons, 
Agents, New York. 




^ 



Ice Cream 

Crowns the Feast 

providing the flavor and 
consistency are pleasing. 

JUNKET 

TABLETS 

make the ice cream of such 
a delightfully smooth and 
velvety body, and of such 
exquisitely delicious taste, that 
the guests all remember the oc- 
casion with pleasure. 
We mail ten tablets to make ten 
quarts, post-paid, for ten cents. 
Your Grocer Sells Junket Tablets. 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, 

P. O. Box 2507, Little Falls. N. Y. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xvii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

A Pure, Wholesome Food. 

For Table Jellies, 
Blanc Mange, Char= 
lotte Russe, etc. 

Our Gelatine is pulver- 
ized and dissolves quickly. 
It is therefore the most 
convenient form for fam- 
ily use. 

FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS. 




I CONSIDER Old Grist Mill 
^ Wheat Coffee to be exactly 
what it is claimed to be — the 
best substitute for coffee. — From 
Good Housekeeping Testimonial. 



"Eat Just What You Like, But 
Chew, Chew" 

Before an audience that completely filled 
the Academy of Medicine, Horace Fletcher, 
the famous exponent of right living, ex- 
plained his theories of perpetual youth. 

Mr. Fletcher did not tell what to eat, 
neither did he say that one should avoid 
coffee. 

''The only rules of the experiments," 
said the speaker, ''were thorough masti- 
cation of all food and obedience to the 
calls of the appetite as to choice and quan- 
tity of food and time of eating. The re- 
sults were a natural reduction of proteid 
and thorough mastication reduced the con- 
sumption of food one-fourth, with a net 
increase of 90 per cent, in muscular en- 
durance, together with a decided gain in 
mental efhciency, and in the case of the 
Yale students, the ease with which college 
tasks were performed. 

"For four years and four months I 've 
taken no systematic physical exercise, but 
have fed m) body in accordance with the 
dictates of appetite. I've been all over 
the world, in the meantime, under condi- 
tions of unusual responsibility and strain, 
with irregular food, climate, activity and 
inactivity. I ' ve been caught in a mid- 
winter blizzard 8,500 feet up in the Hima- 
layas and waded there waist deep in snow 
for seven hours and suffered no discomfort 
or disability. My tests have shown not a 
slipping back, after passing 50, but a distinct 
advance in endurance and muscular qucility, 
and recent tests, although more severe 
than earlier ones, were accomplished with 
greater ease. 

In his early forties Mr. Fletcher was 
turned down by a life insurance examiner, 
and it was this that resulted in the Fletcher 
system of taking food. Now Mr. Fletcher 
has caused Yale University to carry on a 
thorough test of his ideas and has brought 
Dr. Wilham Gilbert Anderson, head of the 
Yale gymnasium, around to Fletcherism, 
as Dr. Anderson showed last night when, 
at the conclusion of Mr. Fletcher's lecture. 
Dr. Anderson followed him with a paper 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




©; 




A Most 
Delicious 
Breakfast 
Dish 



"SQUIRE'S BAG SAUSAGE" is 
just the nicest kind of old fashioned 
sausage meat, put up in such a way that 
you can cut it in little round thin slices. 
Fried in this form it makes about the 
most delicious breakfast dish imaginable. 
By all means try it. 



Squire's Old FasHioned 
Bag' Sausag;e 

This sausage is made from the choicest young fresh pork, seasoned with freshly 
ground spices. 

In each package there is two pounds of the sausage meat, first wrapped in air 
and moisture proof parchment paper and then enclosed in a bag of clean white 
cloth. This work is done at our factory amid surroundings as clean as your own 
kitchen. 

All dealers in New England sell "SQUIRE'S BAG SAUSAGE," or can 
easily get it. Should you meet with refusal or excuses, drop us a line and we 
will see that you are supplied. 

YOU ARE INVITED to visit our model packing house in Cambridge. Guides are always 
waiting to show visitors through the entire plant. It is one of the sights of Boston. Take an 
East Cambridge car at the North Station. Get off at 7th St. 




JoHn P. Squire (Si Company, 
Boston, Mass. 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xix 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Give the Floor a Finish 

A little finely shaved paraffine 
sprinkled on the floors and rubbed in 
with a heavy brush vrill keep them 
bright and glossy. 

Pure Refined 
Paraffine 

helps in the laundry and on ironing 
day A little makes the clothes y 
cleaner and the starch brighter, f 
The best way to preserve jellies or 
fruits, is to seal cups and jars with 
Pure Refined Parafl&ne. Sold in /y 
handy size cakes. All dealers. 
STANDARD OIL CO. 

.^ (Jncorporated) 





ALUMINUM INDIVIDUAL JELLY AND TIMBAL MOULDS 
1-6 of a pint each 

Will chill more quickly than copper. Packed 1 doz. assorted styles 
in a box. 

PRICE $1.50 A DOZEN, POSTPAID 

F. A. STALKER. & CO. 

83-85 Cornhill, Scollay Square, Boston, Mass 



tbJr^iVZM j^ J^mjer 




on ''Observations on the Results of Tests 
for Physical Endurance at the Yale Gym- 
nasium. ' ' 

Dr. Wyeth, president of the academy 
of medicine, said that he was making his 
patients eat as Mr. Fletcher would have 
them eat, and that, if ''we followed Mr. 
Fletcher's ideas, we 'd live to be loo years 
old." 

In brief Mr. Fletcher says: "Don't 
fight at the breakfast table. One should 
make the act of taking food a joyously 
reverential ceremony. It does n't take up 
too much time. You can learn to dine 
normally after practising anywhere from 
one week to a month at the most. I do 
not recommend any particular menu or 
food. The question is how to eat." 



The Air-ship — at Daybreak 

By Don Alar qui s 

The Morning Star sinks swooning down, the pale 

Moon quits the chase, 
We race the rushing Sun across the clamorous 

fields of space ; 

For, tho our prow be wreathed about with purple 

sprays of Night, 
Our pinions flick the dawn that strives to gain 

upon our flight. 

And now, with forelocks fluttering and manes 

blown out behind. 
Come thundering down the sunward slopes the 

Coursers of the Wind — 

For God's sake, UP! — give place to them, wild 
thoroughbreds; of air ; 

The rush of those tempestuous hoofs no man- 
wrought wings may dare ! 

Ahead, no mirrored gleam flares up from stream 

or mere below ; 
Behind, our cloud-wake catches fire and sets the 

east aglow. 

Poised on the very tip of Time, a spinning satellite, 
We float between the flood of day and ebb of 
yesternight. 

Awake, look up, O cynic world ! — as in the days 

of old 
Still godlike progress stabs the sky with shafts of 

shaken gold. 

— Pti tn am's Mo?i th ly 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Do You See 
Why This 



Is Different 



from all others? And why it is better ? In the first place it 
has all of the usual distinctive improved features found only in 




ratw 



^oking-Ranges 

Single T)amper — T^ocJ^-jish Q rates — 
Cup-Joint Oven Flues — Perfected Oven 
— Improved Oven Indicator — 

In addition it has radically new features which 

make it more economical and convenient than 

any range ever made. The old awkward and 

useless end hearth is absent. There is more 

room on top of the Range, and there is a new 

method of caring for the ashes — which in this 

Range fall into a 

hod far below the 

fire — making their 

^ removal easier and 

pre V e n t in g the 
grates from being warped and burned out. 

The Coal Hod and Ash Hod are side by side, 
of same size, and when the ash hod is emptied it 
can be returned full of coal. 

The " Palace " is the extra large size ; the 
"Castle" is smaller but otherwise the same, and 
will suit the majority of familes. 
Send for Illustrated Catalogue of our many Styles of Ranges /' 

C7'aiafords have more iiiiprovements than \ 

all others combined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31=35 Union St., BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 





Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 





No. O 
Household Size 

Little 

Giant 

Ice 

Crusher 



^^^ Only $ 7,50 



Crushing ice by hand is a very nasty and 
disagreeable job, besides it is hard work and 
takes lots of time, and you cannot crush the 
ice to a uniform and proper size. 

With this Httle machine all you have to do 
is to put a piece of ice in the hopper and turn 
the crank. Either a small piece or a piece 
that fills the hopper will go straight through. 

It does the work very easily and quickly 
and is built very substantially, good for years 
of hard usage. 

We send these machines on trial, to be re- 
turned if not satisfactory. Let us send you 
one. 

We also manufacture larger machines from 
hand power capacity to power machines hav- 
ing capacity of forty-five tons per hour. 

Davenport Ice Chopping Machine Co., 



1378 West Third St., 



An American Opportunity 

It is suggested by a New York physician, 
who is familiar with conditions on both 
sides of the Atlantic, that the medicinal 
springs in America be dveloped and 
handled as are the famous springs in 
Europe. 

''There are plenty of curative springs 
in America," says the doctor, " the waters 
of which would be quite as beneficial as 
any of the European waters, if patients 
were handled as at Karlsbad, for example, 
where everything in the shape of diet, exer- 
cise and sleep is carefully arranged, with 
the idea of preventing interference with the 
good effects of the waters. American cure 
resorts quite equal to any in Europe could 
be created if state authorities would take 
the matter up. ' ' 

The European "cures" are many in 
number and elaborate and beautiful in 
equipment — Aix for rheumatism, Hom- 
burg for Gout, Wiesbaden and Baden- 
Baden for stomach troubles, Karlsbad for 
disordered livers, Marienbad for fat, St. 
Moritz for the convalescent after cure; and 
there are scores of others. 

The curative value of these springs has 
been known from very early times. The 
ancient Romans resorted to Baden-Baden, 
the Gauls frequented Aix, the Goths, Karl- 
isbad; but the modern habit of taking the 
''cures ' ' dates from the seventeenth cen- 
tury. 

Not the least valuable part of the regime 
at these places is, as the American physi- 
cian says, the care and attention which go 
with the waters. Doctors are in constant 
attendance, every material facility is at 
hand, and in addition, beautiful scenery 
and the finest music help one to forget his 
ailments. 

How undeveloped the mineral-spring 
treatment in America is may be gathered 
from the fact that eight different states 
have resorts, all of which are recommended 
by physicians, and all of which are known 
simply by the commonplace name of" Hot 
Springs," with nothing else to distinguish 
them. — Youth's Companion. 

4^* <^^ ft^^ 



Davenport, Iowa 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




W4' 












:^-\ is Jfcis. t s ? -^^w »• »l saw 





While the Fire is Low. 

A hot breakfast in a cozy warm room starts one right for the 
day. A cold dining room spoils the enjoyment of the meal. 

The dining room or any room in the house can be heated in 
a few minutes with a 

PERFEaiON Oil Heater 

(Equipped with Smokeless Device) 

For instance, you could light it in your bed- 
room to dress by, then carry it to the dining room, 
and by the time the coffee is ready, the room is 
warm. Impossible to turn it too high or too low — 
never smokes or smells — gives intense heat for 9 
hours with one filling. Every heater warranted. 

The 



RSSfiC^ Lamp 

^^•^^ poses. Give: 



is the best lamp for all- 
round household pur- 
poses. Gives a clear, steady light. 
Made of brass throughout and nickel plated. Equipped with the 
latest improved central draft burner. Handsome — simple — satis- 
factory. Every lamp guaranteed. 

If you cannot get heater and lamp at your dealer's, write to 
our nearest agency. 

STANDARD OIL COMPANY 

(Incorporated) 




Buy advertised goods — Do not accept' substitutes 
xxiii 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




"Rosette" 

Patty Irons — Wafer Irons 

For luncheons, teas, parties and enter- 
tainments of all kinds. , 

Patty Irons for making dainty, flaky pates or tim- 

bales; delicate pastry cups for serving hot or frozen 

_ dainties— creamed vegetables, salads, shell fish, ices. ^_ 

Wafer Irons for making df>liciously crisp, melting wafers — 
a tempting dessert served in many delightful ways. 

With these irons, twenty minutes time, and ten cents worth 
of materials, you can make 40 of either— patty cups or wafers. 
Caterers charge you 50c a dozen for them. 

Dealers everywhere sell our Rosette Irons at goc a set, 
either style. If you cannot get them, order by mail from us. 

Patty Irons, 2 designs, with full directions and illus. iTCp 
book of recipes, packed in neat box, sent postpaid..-' ^^ 
Wafer Irons, 2 designs, vrith full directions and illus. tjfif, 
book of recipes, packed in neat box, sent postpaid. . . ' '-'*' 
New Catalogae of Cnlinarr NoTelties free on reqnest. 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 
1319 Washington Ave. So., Minneapolis, Minn. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH, 

Joseph Dixon Oucible Compaj^,, 
Jeicey Gty„ N. J 









"'^^^^^ 


^^ 




iu 


nm 


^M 


^SmSff^' *^^^^^ 


I 


. -"c /^ 


■ 


1 


n 



£. R. Austin, Arch'' t. So. Bend, Ind. 

If Yoti. A.re Building 

For Yoxirself 
For Sale 
For F^eiit 

your house will be cheaper, more satisfac- 
tory and easier to sell or rent, if stained with 

Cal>ot's 
SHingle 
Stains 
THe Best Kxterior Coloring 

Evidence — samples of stained wood, cata- 
logue and color-chart — sent free. 
Samuel Cabot, Sole Mfr., Boston, Mass. 

Agents at all Central Points. 



Canada and the Tariff 

{From the Kansas City Star) 

It is nothing less than preposterous to 
claim that the producers and manufactur- 
ers of the United States cannot compete 
with those of Canada. No, that is not 
why the tariff is maintained against this 
good and friendly neighbor, which for a 
long time vainly continued negotiations 
looking to the removal of trade restrictions. 
The reason is that the trusts in this coun- 
try want to be protected against such com- 
petition as would come from the Canadian 
side. They want to have the power to 
exact extortionate prices from the con- 
sumers at home. And in this practice of 
extortion they do not want the interfer- 
ence of Canadian competitors. The trusts 
are perfectly willing, of course, to send 
their surplus products to Canada and put 
them on the market for Canadian consum- 
ers at lower rates than consumers on this 
side of the line are made to pay. But 
that is done only with the surplus. The 
main product is sold to the people "at home 
at trust prices. And Congress stands for 
this thing. Congress has stood for it so 
firmly that Canada has finally abandoned 
all efforts to secure relief through reciproc- 
ity and is now experimenting with a retali- 
atory tariff. 



An American doctor built an elegant 
home, says the San Francisco Chronicle. 
His bathroom was of white marble and a 
music-box was concealed in the room. An 
Englishman came to visit the doctor, who, 
when he escorted his guest to the bath- 
room, turned on the music-box to give 
his guest a pleasant surprise. An hour 
later the Englishman joined his host, and 
the doctor asked what his guest thought of 
the bathroom. The Englishman replied, 
"It is beautiful." ''How did you like 
my music-box?" Said his guest with^ 
great disgust in his tones : ' ' Bah ! That 
music-box ! The old thing played ' God 
save the King,' and I had to stand up the 
whole time I was tryina: to bathe. ' ' 



Buy advertised goods — Do not accept substitutes 
xxiv 



THE BOSTON 

:(3DKING-SCHGDL 

MAGAZINE 

OF- CUIyIN ARjY- SCIENCB-AND- 
DOAiBSTIC 'J&CONOAIICS 



THE 
BOSTON 



CCOKING-SCHOOL 
AlAGAZINE 



10« A COPY 



-'e. 



L>>, 



« »■•■ »•• ■♦•1 



No 6 



3r2 

BOYISTON ST. 

BOSTON 
MASSACHUSETTS 





3m 


JPV VOL ^ 


I^^MH^^ 


W XII 


tep^EL^^ 


B January 




1 1908 


^MMpjS^ra 



.^•^K^^*^ 



$100 A YEAR 



Wrapped in Our 
Kictorij -"Opened m 
^ur Kitchen^. 




This is the Way yo\i btiy 
This BreaKfast Delicacy 

IN one-pound packages, double-wrapped in parchment paper. 
They are never sold loose or in bulk, but each pound is carefully 
wrapped and sealed before leaving our Sausage Department and 
need not be opened until it reaches your kitchen. This means CLEAN 
FOOD as well as PURE FOOD and is a matter of great importance to 
particular people. The sealed package protects you from substitution. 
Squire's Arlington Sausage are made from fke choicest, 
selected lean meat (chopped not ground) and seasoned with pure spices 
which we grind at our factory. Most first-class dealers in New Eng- 
land carry these goods. If, however, you are unable to obtain them 
from your regular dealer, we will send, within five hundred miles of 
Boston, Express Prepaii, five one-pound packages of Squire's 
Arlington Sausage and ^ sample pail of Squire's Kettle Ren- 
dered Pure Leaf Lard, for one dollar. We much prefer to have you 
get them from your regular dealer„ 

Ixivit&tioxi 

Our plant is always open to public inspection and a guide is waiting to shc»w 
you through. Thousands of people annually visit our factory. It is only seven 
minutes' ride from the North Union Station. Be sure to make the trip at your 
first opportunity and see ^^One of the sights of Boston^ 

JOHN P. SQUIRE <S COMPANY. Boston, Mass. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. XII 



JANUARY 



No. 6 




Plates in Caliga's Collection 



Old Time Pewter 



By LILLIAN HARROD 



THERE is a charm about old pewter 
which never fails to impress the col- 
lector of antiques, who realizes af- 
ter an extensive research the extreme 
scarcity of the old-time metal. 

Pewter today represents a lost art, and 
the pewter enthusiast is filled with an ab- 
sorbing interest in the pursuit of genuine 
specimens of the old masters. 



The metal in itself is of little or no in- 
trinsic w^orth, for it is nothing more than 
an alloy of tin and lead with sometimes a 
sprinkling of copper, antimony or bismuth. 
Its early history is veiled in comparative 
obscurity. Its use for household uten- 
sils takes us back to the Middle ages and 
beyond, and, indeed, it is impossible to go 
back far enough to ascertain when it was 



251 



252 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




rt\\ler Jug 

first used in China and Japan, those coun- 
tries to which we are compelled to turn 
for the origin of so many of the old indus- 
tries, and whose workmen excelled in this 
art as in all others. 

It is certain that pewter ware was made 
in China two thousand years ago, and 
there are specimens of Japanese pewter in 
England, positively known to be all of 
eleven hundred years old, and they are 
very like specimens exhibited at the Mu- 
seum of Fine Arts in Boston, Massachu- 
setts. 

A friend of mine has in her possession a 
bit of old Japanese pewter, which is a fam- 
ily heirloom, it having been bequeathed to 
her by her mother, who had, in her turn, 
received it from her mother, and so on 
through generations back. It first came 
into possession of her ancestors in 1450, 
and even at that date it is said to have had 
a history, and, indeed, its battered down 
sides speak eloquently and forcibly of a 
past. It is said to have been the posses- 
sion of a French Noble, who for some 



misdemeanor was compelled to flee from 
France, and who sought refuge in Eng- 
land, where he wooed and won an English 
lassie. The precious bit remained with 
his descendants until the year above men- 
tioned, when the last of his race, dying 
without issue, bequeathed the old relic to 
his dearest friend, of whom the lady I 
have mentioned is a direct descendant. 
Aside from its historic value, it represents 
the highest form of Japanese pewter man- 
ufacture, and is as pretty a specimen of 
old Japan's craft, as it has ever been my 
good fortune to see. 

Both the Japanese and Chinese used 
engraving as a form of decoration on their 
l)ewter, and the grace and simplicity of the 
designs employed, do credit to the thrifty 
little artists of the Orient. 

In ancient Rome, pewter was used for 
seals of office, and some years ago quanti- 
ties of these old seals, of all shapes and 
sizes, were discovered in the County of 
Westmoreland, England, where they had 
evidently been left by the Roman legions 
centuries ago. It is indeed deplorable 




Pewter Tankard 



OLD TIME PEWTER 



53 



that, owing to their making excellent sol- 
der, they have been entirely destroyed by 
the enterprising tinkers of the neighbor- 
hood. 

In France, that land of elegance and re- 
finement, pewter was used for domestic 
utensils long before it was made in Eng- 
land, although its manufacture was not 
universal. 

The year 1550 marked the period of the 
most showy development of the manufac- 
ture in that country, and Francis Briot was 
its most celebrated worker, his most noted 
productions being a flagon and salver, with 
figures, emblems, marks and strapwork. 
These exquisite pieces were cast in sec- 
tions, joined together, and then finished in 
the most careful manner, in delicate rehef. 
Briot was followed by Gasper Enderlein, a 
Swiss, and by the year 1600, the Nurem- 
berg workers entered the field with richly 
wrought plates and platters. 

From 1680 to 1780, much pewter was 
manufactured in France, the greater part of 
it in the first three quarters of that period. 
Louis XVI appointed a royal pewterer, and, 
to make the use of the metal more satisfac- 
tory, he granted special permission that it 
might be adorned with gold or lacquer, a 
privilege hitherto enjoyed by the dignitaries 
of the Church only. 

French pewter, however, does not seem 
to have been held in :^^>-ii high esteem 
as that manufactured in Germany and the 
Netherlands, and, in fact, at a " test" held 
at Pewterers' Hall, London, in 1709, the 
specimens ofEnglish pewter exhibited were 
considered superior to those of France and 
also of Spain. In this latter country Bar- 
celona seems to have been the centre of 
the industry, but just when or where the 
craft had its foundation, research has been 
unable to disclose. Certain it is that no 
trace of any corporation or guild has been 
found prior to the Fifteenth Century. 

Pewter making in England was at first 
limited to a few centres, such as London, 
York, and Newcastle, but after awhile the 
craft was practised in a number of other 
places. 

English pewterers never ran to elaborate 




Coffee Pot 

forms, or to an overplus of decoration. On 
the contrary, their pewter was characterized 
by a sturdiness and sedate dignity that raises 
it above that which was manufactured in 
other countries. 




Tewter Jug 



254 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



/7 



Fine Old Pieces 

The old time pewterers were taxed, so 
that every genuine antique specimen bears 
the excise stamp — a cross and a crown. 

Every utensil, regardless of the purpose 
for which it was intended, was weighed, as- 
sayed and divided into two grades, fine and 
common. Generally, three stamps were used; 
a license mark, signifying that the qualities 
and weights were correct, a guild mark, de- 
noting the city, and a private mark, indi- 
cating the maker. Occasionally a piece may 
be found bearing the number and date, but 
such a piece is an exceedingly rare speci- 
men. 

Pewter is valued according to its size and 



mark. Tie larger a piece is, the greater is 
its value. The usual sizes range from five 
inches to two feet, but there are a few 
known specimens that measure three feet 
in diameter. Of course these large pieces 
are exceptionally rare. 

The workmen of the various countries 
were gathered together in guilds or corpora- 
tions, the old London guild, composed of 
EngHsh pewterers, being the most important 
of its day, with the guild of Edinburgh, com- 
posed of Scottish workmen, ranking second. 
The guilds of French pewterers were abol- 
ished by Turgot, on the ground that the 
free right to labor was a sacred privilege of 
humanity. With the abohtion of the vari- 
ous guilds, the quahty and use of pewter 
ware steadily dechned. Then, too, after 
the year 1750, the use of pottery and porce- 
lain gradually increased, and the beauty of 
these wares easily made them favorites. 

The Germans practised the craft of pew- 
ter making to a considerable extent, and 
Nuremberg and Augsberg were apparently 
the headquarters of the industry. Records 
of enactment at the latter place show that 
the workshops were inspected by the mas- 
ters of the craft as early as 1324. Nurem- 
berg, too, had her famous workmen, the 
best known being Carel and Sebaldus 
Ruprecht. 

Scotland and Ir^^land also furnished a 
coterie of masier pewter makers, Edin- 



stf 








Some of Caliga's Collection 



OLD TIME PEWTER 



-55 



burgh and Glascow being the chief centres 
of the trade, in the former country, while 
Dubhn and Cork did the most extensive 
business, in the latter country. , 

About the year 1780, pewter was but 
little used among the wealthy classes, ex- 
cept in their kitchens and servants' quarters, 
where it held sway for a considerable length 
of time; in fact, in some of the larger estab- 
lishments, it continued to be used regularly 
until within the last thirty years, and even 
now it is used in the "Servants' Hall" 
in two or three of the large old country 
houses. 

Pewter lingered longest in the taverns 
and inns, and in the London chop-houses, 
till the latter were assailed by the introduc- 
tion of coffee palaces and tea rooms. 

The old tune metal played a very im- 
portant part in the first Colonial house- 
holds in America, it being the only available 
ware in many cases; but after a time, as 
the population and strength of the young 
Colonies increased, it had to give way, as 
in England, to the introduction and steadily 
increasing popularity of china. 

Boston, Massachusetts, was the chief port 
of its manufacture, and also of the distribu- 
tion of English pewter. This accounts for 
the many really fine specimens that are to 
be found throughout the New England 
states, and especially in various parts of the 
old Bay state. Salem, renowned in song 
and story as the mecca of antique relics and 
legends, has probably the finest private col- 
lection of all, that of Mr. I. H. Caliga, the 




Jewish Lamp 



artist. It contains a group of pieces picked 
up by the owner in his travels, and each 
piece has its hallmark, showing that each is 
a choice bit. 

Pewter, at its best, is plain, relying en- 
tirely on its form for its pleasing appearance. 
But what other metal is there which so well 
repays its owner for the care expended upon 
it ? Perhaps it costs an extra effort or two 
to keep it bright and shining; but no one 
who truly loves the dear old reminder of 
bygone days and memories, will regret the 
energy expended, for the slow gleams of 
silver hke hue, which gradually appear on 
the surface, reward his efforts like the smile 
of an old friend ! 




Quaint Old Teapots 



The House That Was to Make People 

Happy 

By FRANCES CAMPBELL SPARHAWK 
Part ii 



IT was with rage in her heart and a 
taunt upon her tongue that Hattie 
Windsor learned who were to be Miss 
Leslie's first guests. "Poor Miriam!" 
she sneered. "I wouldn't have that 
lovely place to be such a martyr to duty as 
you are. Just to think of a whole month 
with a sewing girl and her mother as com- 
pany — company I You'll be bored to 
death with such common people. I pity 



you 



1'^ 



Miss LesHe looked at the young girl. 
It was upon her lips to say : "I pity you, 
to see nothing but this ! " But she for- 
bore. What was the use ? Hattie was 
not one who understood. And then this 
was the way she had been trained. 
'^Some day you shall come to see me if 
you will, Hattie," she answered kindly. 
"But this is a case of life and death. 
Don't you think human life of any ac- 
count • — even if it is that of a sewing girl' s 
mother? " 

"Ye — es, of course," returned the 
girl reluctantly. "Then I understand 
about your aunt's tyranny over you after 
she's dead; you are a martyr, Miriam, I 
say. ' ' 

"Wait until you see how it all turns 
out," said Miriam. "And, Hattie, Mrs. 
Stone and Helen are quite as much la- 
dies as you and I are. Misfortune has 
come to them; I don' t know what. " 

"Oh, yes, of course; that's the way 
with the whole tribe ! ' ' sneered Hattie. 
And Miss Leslie gave her up. 

' ' Mamma, is n' t it a piece out of Heaven 
here? And there down in the garden is 
the angel at the gate," said Helen, a week 
later, as she and her mother sat at the win- 
dow of the morning room at "Hillside." 



Already Mrs. Stone was feeling the effects 
of fine air and food and careful nursing. 
Miss Leslie was far from fussy ; but she 
had a way of brooding over her guest with 
a warmth of kindness that was inspiring. 
A gay word, a bright story, a choice book, 
a short drive such as the invalid's strength 
could endure, a hammock on the broad 
veranda, a lounging chair in the drawing 
room, ten minutes with a neighbor who 
proved very entertaining, hours of needed 
quiet alone, when Miss Leshe carried off 
Helen upon some trip in the neighbor- 
hood, or the two talked in the old sum- 
merhouse in the garden or under the 
pines, long restful nights and wakings to 
the serene consciousness of no present 
anxieties and to a landscape that the com- 
ing summer was making ever more beauti- 
ful, — all these ministrations told upon the 
sensitive guest, and were bringing bright- 
ness to her eyes and strength to her limbs 
and a joy long unknown to her heart. Its 
sense of loss would never be lessened, she 
well knew; but for the time poverty and 
trial were things of the past. She was a 
wise woman as well as a brave one and 
would not walk with her head over her 
shoulder reviewing them, nor remember 
that they must come again. If she were 
well, all would be easier, and she lived in 
the present. 

Yet, now and then, as the days went by 
and the weeks which she did not want to 
count, she sometimes referred to her early 
married life when her husband was living, 
and Miriam saw that it had been a very 
happy one. The month was nearly over 
when one day Miss Leslie sat with her 
guest upon the veranda looking toward 
the hills, and the two as they talked drifted 
into glimpses of the past. 



256 



THE HOUSE THAT WAS TO MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY 



257 



'' My aunt, Mrs. Wood, was a most un- 
happy woman, ' ' said Miriam, as her com- 
panion spoke of the rest and beauty about 
them. "She had one bitter regret and 
it corroded her Hfe. Her only child, , a 
boy, her son by her first husband, must 
have been unmanageable from early child- 
hood. I know so little of him, that I can- 
not tell whether there were traits of evil in 
him or if he only needed a wise and strong 
hand which he never had. His stepfather 
was not fond of children and flung at him 
continually; and his mother — " She 
broke off suddenly and sat looking across 
the sweep of summer vale and wood to 
the hills bright in the sunlight 

"^ His mother, you say," her listener 
repeated. "Surely, his mother loved 
him?" And she turned to her compan- 
ion. 

For a moment Miriam was still silent. 
< ' His mother ? ' ' she said at last. ' ' I don' t 
know how it was at that time; I do know 
how it was afterward. But then I had just 
been born; my cousin was much older 
than!" 

"You say, 'was'— your cousin is 
not living now ? ' ' 

Miriam shook her head. " No, indeed ! 
Or we should most surely have heard 
from him. My aunt tried every possible 
means to discover him after he went 
away. To the very last all she had would 
have been his — except that she would 
have remembered me. But there was no 
hope of him; so she gave everything to 
me. You do not wonder that she wanted 
the house where she had suffered so terri- 
bly for her passionate temper and her ex- 
actingness to shed over her grave the 
sweetness of a joy that was not hers? She 
herself did much for others; but she was 
too moody to live with strangers. Her 
second husband died ten years after their 
marriage; and then I came here to live 
with her. She was always kind to me. 
But it was always sad; and sometimes I 
used to hear her in the night wandering 
about the house and moaning : " My son! 
My beloved son! Forgive my wicked 
words and come back to me! Come 



back in peace even in my dreams." 

' ' Then she drove him away ? ' ' said her 
listener almost in a whisper. 

Miriam bowed her head. "I'm afraid 
so," she answered in the same voice. 

Then seeing the trouble in the listener's 
face and feeling that she was not strong 
enough for this, Miriam tried to turn 
away to a happier subject. 

But the mood of both was suited to 
confidences, and it was not long before 
Mrs. Stone was telling her companion of 
the grief of her own life, a grief always to 
endure, but with no bitterness in it, for 
all memories of her husband were of joy. 
Simply, yet with a graphic power that went 
to the heart of her hearer, she told of the 
travel abroad and of the frightful ship- 
wreck on their return. She told of the 
agony of seeing her husband sink before 
her eyes; of days of terrible suffering in an 
open boat on a tempestuous sea; of the 
consigning of her dead infant to the deep 
during this time; of the landing far from 
her home with no money to reach this; 
of the absence of kith or kin; of the silence 
which at first met her letters of inquiry to 
her husband's firm, and then the informa- 
tion that his business had been a failure 
and that there were debts in place of as- 
sets. Briefly she spoke of the long years 
of struggle with Helen to educate; of 
the giving out of her own health and 
strength; of Helen's beautiful devotion. 
The listener's sympathetic imagination 
filled in many details ot suffering which the 
narrator's reticence would never disclose. 

The silence into which each fell when 
the story was finished was broken by the 
sound of distant laughter in a girl's sweet 
voice. 

' ' There they are, ' ' said Miriam, and they 
sat listening. In another moment again came 
the gay laughter, this time in two voices. 
"There they are," said Miriam once 
more, " coming up the slope by the great 
elm. What a handsome couple ! Helen is 
beautiful, as her mamma must know. How 
I wish — " 

" Roses everywhere ! Miss Leslie, mam- 
ma, this is a world of roses ! ' ' cried the girl, 



258 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



with a quick run distancing her companion 
as the two came up the slope. 

'' Yes, and roses on your cheeks, too," 
said Miriam. Her words deepened these 
from blush to crimson, as with a smile she 
looked past the speaker and greeted the 
young neighbor home for his college vaca- 
tion, and of late, constantly finding his way 
from his father' s domain through Miss Les- 
lie' s rustic gate, and always with some mes- 
sage or some word that he held of impor- 
tance, or some gift of fruit or flower for 
her charming young guest, or if the gift came 
as an offering to Mrs. Stone, it was none 
the less appreciated. 

That morning his fair head loomed over 
Helen's dark hair and his blue eyes were 
bent upon her downcast face with a look 
that set Miss Leslie dreaming of future 
neighborhood with the lovely girl of whom 
she had already grown so fond. But she 
was too wise to jest or comment of bright 
possibility; she contented herself with ad- 
miring the great branch of dewey roses 
which he was holding over Helen like a 
parasol, and with asking what they had 
planned for the day' s pleasure. For these 
two often settled upon such excursion to 
lake or hill in the neighborhood as Mrs. 
Stone in her month of luxury, had grown 
able to take. 

^' Actually," cried young Norton, dang- 
ling the spray of flowers over her shoulder 
so that she might inhale its fragrance, '' the 
roses are in your cheeks, too, Mrs. Stone. 
You remember that was to be the signal 
for the drive to Witches' Lake. It 's only 
eight miles, and the weather is perfect. ' ' 

And go they did to the accompaniment 
of brilliant skies, balmy breezes and joyful 
hearts. Miriam did not know when she 
had been so happy; her greatest fear was 
that she should not be able to persuade 
her guests, who had given as much happi- 
ness as they had received, to spend an- 
other month with her. 

That afternoon Helen sat under a giant 
pine tree with Will Norton. She tucked 
into her belt flowers that he had gathered 
for her. Then he asked her to give him 
one of them and to pin it to his coat for 



him. As she was fastening it to his lapei, 
he said to her: 

''I'm sure you must be some kind of 
princess; you look like one — Helen, not 
the Helen of Troy, you know, for she 
wasn't nice enough, and / don't beUeve 
she was beautiful enough, but — ' ' 

" If I look like any kind of a princess, I 
must look like what I am not," she re- 
torted. " I 'm only a sewing girl, whom 
Miss Leslie has brought here in her loving 
kindness because my mother was so ill. I 
will not sail under false colors, Mr. Nor- 
ton. ' ' 

She sat looking at him steadily, her face 
very pale, her heart sinking, her eyes 
watching to see him shrink away from her 
ever so little. Then she would know that 
she was out of the pale, that the joy she 
had dreamed of could never be hers. No 
word from Miss LesHe had told the posi- 
tion of her guests, who had proved well 
able to hold their own with any of Miriarr'r 
visitors. 

Young Norton did, indeed, give a start 
of surprise. But instead of shrinking, he re- 
turned her look with something in his eyes 
that, after a moment, made her own droop 
and her heart beat fast, and the color flood 
her downcast face. 

' ' Whew ! But you ' re plucky ! " he said. 
"I like pluck!" He bent nearer and 
his hand closed over hers. 

She left it a moment then tried to draw 
it away. 

But he held it firmly. ''You won't be 
a sewing girl when you are my wife, little 
princess — if only you love me a hundredth 
part as well as I do you," he whispered. 
" Do you, Helen? Do you?" 

"But your father," she faltered. 
"And, oh, your mother and sisters are so 
proud. I—" 

' ' Well ! I ' m going to give them some- 
body to be proud of," he said. "Am I 
not, Helen ? Tell me. You do love me, 
don't you? " 

"Ye--es," whispered the girl, as she 
felt her lover's arms about her. " I do 
love you ; but — I think — I — " 

But Norton stopped her words with 



THE ETHICS OF POCKETS 



259 



kisses. ''If you love me," he said be- 
tween them, ''then, of course, you will be 
my wife; and from this minute we're 
engaged. ' ' 

During the homeward drive Miss Leslie 
cast many a sly glance at the young couple 
and smiled softly to herself. At the mo- 
ment it seemed to her as if all life were 
g-^ing to suit her wishes. 

It was that very evening that after sitting 
long in troubled silence over her mail, she 



approached her guests, a letter in her hand. 
" Dear friends," she said, "I hope you 
will not leave me now in my perplexity. 
I must be a very wicked woman not to re- 
joice that he is not dead after all — I am 
speaking of my cousin, my aunt's son; he 
has appeared, my lawyer writes me, and is 
going to break her will, he says, and take 
possession of this place — and all she left 
me." 

( To be continued) 



The Ethics of Pockets 

By HELEN CAMPBELL 

-" She was a simple farmer lass." 



SO sang the leader of the village choir, 
his clear baritone ringing through the 
lecture room of the little church, 
where the social supper and whatever en- 
tertainment could be provided for was the 
monthly feature from November to May. 
"Most a pot o' baked beans and five kinds 
o' cake in him an' it don' t seem to hinder 
him one mite, with that voice of his clear 
as a bell, ' ' Aunt Patty Reynolds said to her 
nearest neighbor, "but as for 'simple 
farmer lassies,' there ain't none such. 
They all wear white waists in the afternoon 
and sit on the porch and rock for all as if 
they was summer boarders, and there ain't 
one the length and breadth of the whole 
land that ' s got a pocket. ' ' 

The minister, just behind her, a fun-lov- 
ing man with a solemn face that belied his 
tendencies, bent forward to listen. 

"It's so;' ' Aunt Patty continued, ' ' and 
there ain't one can deny it. The dress- 
maker is at the bottom of it, but the fool 
that ' s in all women is down there along 
side. 'Taint fashionable to have a pocket 
they say, but who said it first, and why 
ain't it? That's what I want to know. 
Now here we are, seven women in a row, 



and every one of us old enough to have 
sense. How many of you has got a pocket? 
Not one but me and I knew it ! " she 
added triumphantly, after a pause in which 
defiance had come into every face. "I 
thought so. Your handkerchiefs are tucked 
up your sleeves, and your money, gracious 
knows where, and not even a grandmother 
that could hand out a peppermint to a 
wriggling child of a Sunday, or smelling salts 
to some one took sudden with faintness und 
such. It ' s time to find out what it means 
and why ain' t this the time ? Who ' s got 
such authority that there ain' t a woman left 
in the land that dares to go agi'n it? 
What ' s your opinion Dr. Green ? ' ' and she 
turned so suddenly that Mrs. Green started 
and gave a little cry. 

The minister's eyes twinkled but he sat 
silent. 

"You 'd a told fast enough if Mis Green 
hadn't given you a twitch," Aunt Patty 
continued undaunted. "I seen her and 
it ' s all right enough, for she ' s all for peace, 
and who knows how they'd all take it, 
she thinks. Maybe you never found out. 
Dr. Green, but if a woman sets out to be a 
fool, she's bound to prove that folly is 



26o 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



wisdom. I've been there and I know. 
There ain' t one of you now with a word to 
say. There was one boarder here this 
summer — Enghsh at that, and they ' re a 
kind that do what they like no matter what 
folks say. She had two, and man-fashion 
at that, set in with stitched flaps each side, 
her front breadth to ' em never showing a 
mite, unless she picked up apples that will 
bulge you know. But she carried things 
she wanted in 'em just like a man and had 
the comfort of 'em, — knife and pencil and a 
book most of the time and no going up her 
own arm for handkerchiefs or anything else, 
not she. But here right before us is a 
generation coming up with no knowledge 
that they can have pockets.' The dress- 
makers say, 'Oh, you wouldn't be out of 
fashion would you ? ' and the fool mothers 
just the same, and never using their wits 
enough to see that if little boys need 'em 
for taffy and empty spools and fish bait, or 
anything else that's valuable to them, little 
girls has just as many uses for them. But 
there ! You can' t make one of them think 
so, and bymbye,'no pockets for the female 
sect will settle down into hard and fast law, 
same as veils for Turks' wives and families, 
'till some sense comes suddenly to some- 
body, may be a hundred years from now, 
aod^ there ' 11 he an uprising all of a sudden 
and forming a society for the Propagation 
of Pockets. ' ' 

''Go it. Aunt Patty," said the president 
of the Young Peoples' Union, a young 
woman whose tightly fitting sheath-skirt 
gave no evidence of even the possibility of 
a pocket. "I do like to hear you talk. 
We all do, whether we agree with you or 
not. But if we don't mind, why should 
you ? " 

Aunt Patty' s eyes grew large and very 
serious. 

" Child, you '11 live to know that for the 
fool things that folks do there's always 
somebody that must mind, and I suppose 
I 'm one, since it kind of hurts to see sense 
growing in such lots of ways, and then some- 
thing coming sudden like to upset the good. 
Up in Boston, the last time I went up with 
Mirandy for a little change after summer 



boarders, first thing I saw was every woman 
with her purse in her hand, laying it down 
most anywheres, or else she had a little bag 
that every pickpocket knew had her money 
in it, and that she held handy on her wrist 
for anyone of ' em to snatch and run. I said 
then somebody ought to interfere and put a 
stop to it and the temptation their ways was, 
making thieving easy, besides giving up the 
common sense that any woman needs, 
same's a man; more'n a man I say, for 
many a time she has to have it for him, too, 
in everything but pockets. Here's your 
Young Folks' Social Union, and sending 
for lecturers and things. Why ain' t there 
somebody that might come along and just 
settle this question." 

Dr. Green had laughed more than once, 
his mellow, comfortable laugh, and now he 
took from his pocketbook a printed slip 
and rose in his place. " It is a little singu- 
lar, ' ' he said, ' ' that while you are laughing 
at Aunt Patty and her argument, I hap- 
pened to have cut from a western paper for 
my wife's benefit — you see she also is in 
fashion — a paragraph or so holding the 
conclusion of a wise man, the principal of a 
high school in Denver, Colorado, one of 
the most progressive of western cities. He 
has ordered that all the girls attending 
school shall have pockets in their dresses, 
and the reason he gives is that he cannot 
have pupils of the school subjected to un- 
necessary temptation. Every day, he says, 
eight or ten purses are found about the 
school building and brought to the princi- 
pal' s office. He considers it rem.arkable 
that the pupils are so honest, but thinks it 
unfair to put their virtue to this constant 
test. If the local school board agree with 
him, hereafter every girl attending school 
will be expected to have in her clothing a 
safe receptacle for the money she carries 
about with her.^ Today' s paper gives two 
cases. A shopper left her purse on the 
counter, and the woman who picked it up 
and returned it was arrested as a thief. 
Another woman had her wrist badly torn 
by a thief who snatched her wrist bag 
through an open window as the train started, 
he on the outside platform. -Argument 



OPPORTUNITY 



261 



is n' t much use of course; it never has been, 
from the day even when old John Cotton 
and his successor fulminated against ' the 
creature called starch,' which appears to 
have been pecuharly obnoxious to the Pu- 
ritan mind.