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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

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http://www.archive.org/details/boymechanicbook200chic2 


THE  BOY  MECHANIC 

BOOK  2 


Printea  In  u.  s.  A. 


The 

Boy  Mechanic 


BOOK  2 


1000  THINGS  FOR  BOYS  TO  DO 


HOW  TO  CONSTRUCT 

DEVICES  FOR  WINTER  SPORTS,  MOTION-PICTURE  CAMERA.  INDOOR 

GAMES,    REED    FURNITURE,    ELECTRICAL    NOVELTIES, 

BOATS,   FISHING    RODS,    CAMPS    AND     CAMP 

APPLIANCES,  KITES  AND  GLIDERS, 

PUSHMOBILES,    ROLLER 

COASTER,  FERRIS 

WHEEL 

AND 

HUNDREDS  OF  OTHER  THINGS  WHICH  DELIGHT  EVERY  BOY 


WITH  995  IJLLUSTRATtONS 


COPYRIGHTED;  19ig,B>; 'H.  M-  '^IMDSOR 


11"^         »     »      Ti 


POPULAR  MECHANICS  PRESS 
CHICAGO 


<  W  :S    S 


D  i3»s-i%  '  I 


i$o 


rihe  Boy  Surveyor 

Plane -Table 
Surve^ang 


& 


HAROLD  G.McGEE 


[In  the  training  of  a  boy  for  a  trade  or  profession  there  is  none  so  profitable  for  outdoor 
work  as  that  of  a  surveyor.  This  article  sets  forth  how  to  accomplish  surveying  and  the 
making  of  simple  maps  with  the  use  of  commonplace  tools  that   any  boy   can   make. — Editor.] 


Surveying  and  map  making  have 
always  been  two  of  the  most  interest- 
ing things  a  civil  engineer  has  had  to 
do.  And,  like  George  Washington, 
many  of  the  men  we  look  up  to  today 
as  successes  in  different  lines  worked 
as  surveyors  in  their  younger  days. 
Surveying  takes  one  out  of  doors,  and 
is  apt  to  lead  him  into  the  unknown 
and  unexplored  byways  of  the  earth. 

Though  modern  surveyors  often  use 
precise  and  expensive  instruments, 
creditable  surveys  can  be  made  with 
simple  and  inexpensive  apparatus.  Of 
such  apparatus,  two  of  the  simplest 
are  the  plane  table  and  the  camera. 
Since  one  must  know  the  principles 
of  plane-table  surveying  before  he  can 
do  camera  surveying,  this  paper  will 
describe  the  plane  table  alone,  leaving 
the    camera    for   another   chaptei'.     : 

A  plane  table   is  simply  a  dravving 


board  mounted  on  a  tripod  so  that  it 
can  be  set  up  and  worked  upon  in  the 
field.  One  kind  of  plane  table,  which 
is  used  in  the  army  for  reconnaissance, 
does  not  even  have  a  tripod ;  it  is  sim- 
ply strapped  to  the  arm  of  the  man 
who  is  using  it. 

Plane-table  maps  vary  greatly  in 
scale  and  the  area  they  represent. 
Landscape  artists'  plans  may  show 
only  single  city  lots,  while  some  topo- 
graphic maps  cover  hundreds  of 
square  miles  on  a  single  sheet.  For 
maps  of  a  small  farm,  a  park,  or  a 
residence  block  in  the  city,  a  plane 
table  is  almost  ideal,  since  plane-table 
maps  are  made  with  rather  simple  ap- 
paratus and  do  not  require  much 
actual  measuring  on  the  ground. 
Mo.?.t.cbitct!3  .are  located  without  ever 
going  ta  tliem,  or  even  sending  a  rod- 
iran  to  them. 


ym.-  I '  *' «i£.^^' At  <  ^  >-    '  '''-^*'"''^^=^^^^^f  I3X  T( '' f - 


/ 


I 


Just  a  Few  Weeks  After   George  Washington's   Sixteenth   Birthday,  in  1748,  Lord  Fairfax,  Owner  of  a  Large 
Estate  in  Virginia,  Took  Him  into  His  Employ  as  a  Surveyor 


2 


Besides  the  plane  table  itself  and  a  and  west.    It  is  then  clamped  so  that  it 

sheet  of  paper,  only  a  small  carpenter's  will  not  move  while  workingf  on  it. 
level,    a    tape   to   measure   a    few    dis-  To  begin   the  map,   a  point  on   the 

tances     with,     and     some     spikes    for  table  is  chosen  to  represent  the  station 

markers,   a   hard   lead   pencil,   a   ruler,  on  the  ground  over  which  the  tab'e  is 

and     a     few     needles    are     absolutely  set.     This  point  is  marked  by  sticking 

necessary  for  this  sort  of  a  map.  a  fine  needle  into  the  paper,  vertically. 

To   start  a   plane-table   map,  a   sta-  A    small    triangle    should    be    drawn 

tion  must  first  be  selected  from  which  around  the  needle  hole  in  the  paper  and 


TABLE  AT  STA,C 


as    many    as 
possible      o  f 
the    objects 
to  be  located 
on     the     fin- 
i  s  h  e  d    map 
can  be  seen. 
Ordinar  i  1  y, 
the      objects 
one   would 
locate     are    corners     of 
buildings,  fence  corners, 
intersections     of     roads, 
corners    of    lots, 
banks    of    streams, 
possibly     trees, 
and     section 
and    quar- 
ter-section 


Three 

Stations 


labeled  "Sta.  A,"  so  that  it  will 

not  be  lost  in  the  maze  of  points 

which  will  soon  cover  the  sheet. 

^|^,J{^'g'^,f,7   By  sighting  past  "his  needle  to- 

piane  Table   ward      some     object     which      is 

in  Succession  ,      ,  ,,  ^  ,.-         ,, 

to  Locate     wanted  on  the  map,  like  the  cor- 
"'objects"^    ner  of  a  house,  its  direction  can 
be    marked    by    setting    another 
needle  on  the  far  side  of  the  table,  in 


line  with  the  first  and  the  given  ob- 
ject.    Then,  if  a  ruler  or  straight- 
edge be  placed  against  these  two 
needles  and  a  fine  line  drawn 
connecting    them,     this     line 
will    show    the    exact   direc- 
tion   of    the    object    from 


cor  n  e  r  s   in 

the     country.       A    ^' 

railroad,  a  lake,  a 

mountain,    or    / 

anything    /   which 

forms     a      no  /    tic  e  a  b  1  e 

landmark  in  ^/  any  particular  locality, 
ought  to  be  on 
the  map.  In 
mapping  a  ter- 
rrtgrj:  _.wh>c,h- 


Table  at  sta.b 


Sta.  A.   All  the 

other  objects 

which   are 

wanted  on 

the      finished 

map     and     can 

be     seen     from 

Sta.  A  are  located  by  direction  in  the 
same  way. 

The  first  points  to  have  their  direc- 
.tion  thus  marked  ought  to  be  the  next 
has  ■h'ey^'.bee'ii". ''st^tL'^ns  to  be  occupied.  If  all  the  ob- 
surveye'd.  "be,-,  J.ect's'to  be  located  can  be  seen  from 
fore,  'tlje  *V"^t.'  lUlree  stations,  or  even  two  of  three 
suryeyo'f  may'""  stations,  three  stations  will  be  sufifi- 
namfe/flte/lni'ilsv'.'fient.  The  distance  to  one  of  them 
and  'sir earns-. '•-•from  Sta.  A  should  be  carefully  meas- 
After  the  first  station  has  been  se-  ured  and  laid  off  to  scale  along  its 
lected,  it  is  marked  by  a  pile  of  stones,  direction  line  on  the  map.  Its  place 
a  stake,  or,  if  precise  work  is  to  be  on  the  map  should  be  marked  exactly 
done,  a  tack  in  the  top  of  a  stake.  The  as  the  first  station  was,  substituting 
table  is  then  set  up  over  this  station  B  for  A.  It  is  wise,  after  every  few 
point  and  leveled  so  that  the  surface  sights  at  other  objects,  to  take  a  sight 
of  the  paper  will  be  truly  horizontal,  along  the  line  AB  to  make  sure  that 
Generally,  too,  the  board  is  "oriented,"  the  board  has  not  turned.  A  good  map 
that  is,  placed  so  that  two  of  its  edges  is  impossible  if  the  board  twists, 
point   north   and   south   and   two   east  To    measure    the    distance    between 


TABLE  AT  STA. A 


stations,  a  50  or  100-ft.  tape,  or  some 
accurate  substitute,  is  necessary.  An 
ordinary  piece  of  iron  telegraph  wire, 
105  ft.  long,  is  a  good  substitute.     A 


■d 


No  I 


1 —  nir 

4 

It  y^ — -  — 11! — 
-*'          

[^ 


^ 


1-3"- 


No  2 


An  Alidade,  Consist- 
ing of  Two  Sights 
and  a  Straightedge, 
Takes  the  Place  of 
the     Two      Needles 


No3 

point,  about  Si-o  ft.  from  one  end,  is 
marked  with  a  little  lump  of  solder. 
A  chisel  dent  in  this  solder  will  mark 
one  end  of  the  100-ft.  section.  Then, 
with  a  borrowed  tape  or  a  good  rule, 
measure  oft  and  mark  every  10  ft.,  just 
as  the  first  point  was  marked,  until  the 
entire  100  ft.  have  been  laid  ofif.  The 
last  10  ft.  should  be  divided  into  feet. 
In  all  this  measuring  and  marking,  the 
wire  must  be  stretched  out  taut  and 
straight.  The  extra  21/2  ft.  at  each  end 
are  used  for  making  handles.  By  esti- 
mating the  tenths  of  a  foot,  measure- 
ments can  be  made  with  such  a  tape, 
or  "chain,"  as  an  old-time  surveyor 
might  call  it,  just  as  accurately  as  they 
can  be  laid  ofT  on  the  map. 

Two  men  are  required  for  measur- 
ing, or  "chaining,"  a  head  and  a  rear 
chainman.  The  rear  chainman  holds 
the  100-ft.  end  of  the  tape  on  the  sta- 
tion point,  while  the  head  chainman 
takes  his  end  forward  toward  the  sta- 
tion to  which  they  are  measuring. 
When  he  has  gone  nearly  the  length 
of  the  tape,  the  rear  chainman  calls 
"halt."    The  head  chainman  stops  and 


draws  the  tape  up  tight,  while  the  rear 
chainman  holds  his  division  end  on  the 
starting  point.  Then  the  head  chain- 
man  sticks  a  spike  into  the  ground  to 


Fine  WIRE 


a. 


mark  the  place  where  his  division  end 
comes,  calls  out  "stuck,"  and  starts  on 
toward  the  object  point. 

Large  spikes  make  good  marking 
pins,  especially  if  they  have  little  red 
or  white  strips  of  cloth  tied  to  them. 
Surveyors  use  11  markers.  One  is 
stuck  into  the  ground  at  the  starting 
point  and  is  carried  forward  by  the 
rear  chainman,  who  also  picks  up  the 
markers  at  each  100-ft.  point  as  soon 
as  the  head  chainman  calls  "stuck."  In 
this  way,  the  number  of  markers  which 
the  rear  chainman  has  in  his  hand  is 
always  the  same  as  the  number  of 
hundreds  of  feet  which  the  last  set 
marker  is  from  the  starting  point. 

In  measuring  between  two  points, 
care  must  be  taken  to  draw  the  tape 
out  taut  and  straight,  its  two  ends 
must  be  level  with  each  other,  and  it 
must  be  exactly  in  line  with  the  two 
points  between  which  the  measurement 
is  being  made.  In  measuring  down- 
hill, one  end  may  have  to  be  held  up 
high,  and  the  point  on  the  ground 
where  the  end  division  would  come, 
found  by  dropping  a  stone  from  the 
place  where  it  is  in  the  air  and  watch- 
ing for  the  spot  where  the  rock  strikes 
the  ground.  A  surer  way  to  do  this  is 
to  hold  a  plumb-bob  string  on  the  last 
division  and  carefully  let  the  bob  down 
until  it  touches  the  ground.  A  rod 
with  a  red  or  white  flag  on  it  ought  to 
be  placed  at  or  just  beyond  the  point 
to  which  the  measurement  is  to  be 
made  so  that  the   rear  chainman   can 


easily  line  in  the  head  chainman.  The 
latter,  before  he  places  his  marker, 
looks  back  to  the  rear  chainman  to  be 
told  whether  or  not  he  is  "on  line" 
with  the  object  point.  If  he  is  not,  and 
ought  to  go  to  the  rear  chainman's 
right  to  get  "on,"  the  latter  holds  out 
his  right  arm  and  the  head  chainman 
moves  accordingly.  When  he  reaches 
the  right  point,  the  rear  chainman 
signals  "all  right"  by  holding  out  both 
of  his  arms  and  then  dropping  them  to 
his  side;  the  marker  is  stuck,  and  both 
move  up  a  hundred  feet  and  repeat  the 
process. 

After  all  the  points  possible  have 
been  located  from  Sta.  A,  and  the  direc- 
tion lines  labeled  lightly  in  pencil  so 
that  they  can  be  distinguished  when 
the  board  has  been  removed  from  the 
station,  the  plane  table  is  picked  up 
and  carried  to  Sta.  B.  Here  it  is  again 
set  up,  leveled,  and  oriented  by  mak- 
ing the  direction  of  the  line  AB  on  the 
paper  exactly  the  same  as  that  of  the 
line  from  Sta.  A  to  Sta.  B  on  the 
ground.  This  is  done  by  placing  needles 
at  points  A  and  B  on  the  table  and  then 
turning  the  board  until  the  two  needles 
and  Sta.  A  are  in  line.  Sights  are 
taken  on  the  same  objects  which  were 
"shot"  at  Sta.  A,  and  to  objects  which 
were  not  visible  from  Sta.  A.  The  in- 
tersection of  the  lines  of  sight  toward 
a  given  object  from  A  and  from  B 
marks  the  location  on  the  paper  of 
that  object.  If  the  two  ends  of  a 
straight  fence  have  been  located  in  this 
way,  a  straight  line  joining  the  points 
will  show  the  location  of  the  fence  on 
the  map.  By  exactly  similar  methods, 
every  other  object  is  located  on  the 
paper. 

In  order  to  avoid  errors,  it  is  an  ex- 
cellent scheme  to  locate  three  stations 
near  the  outside  edges  of  the  area  to 
be  mapped,  and  locate  all  objects  pos- 
sible by  sights  from  each  of  the  three 
stations.  If,  instead  of  all  three  cross- 
ing each  other  at  a  point,  the  lines  of 
sight  from  the  three  stations  form  a 
triangle,  something  is  wrong.  If  the 
triangle  is  very  small,  it  may  be  safe 
to  use  its  center  as  the  correct  point; 
if  not,  the  work  must  be  repeated  and 


checked.  Locating  even  a  few  points 
by  this  method  may  prevent  some  bad 
blunders.  The  three  stations  ought  to 
form  as  nearly  as  possible,  an  equilat- 


SPIKE 


A  Rigid   Tripod  is  Made 

of  Strips  for  Legs, 

Which  are  Fastened 

to  a  Large  Top 


eral  triangle;  and  the  distances  be- 
tween all  of  them  should  be  measured 
and  laid  out  accurately  on  the  plane 
table. 

There  are  two  ways  in  which  the 
map  may  be  finished,  inked,  or  traced. 
By  drawing  in  the  "culture,"  that  is, 
the  things  built  by  man,  like  the 
houses,  the  fences,  the  roads,  and  the 
railroads,  in  black  ink  ;  the  topography, 
that  is,  the  hills  and  valleys,  in  brown; 
the  water,  in  blue,  and  then  erasing 
all  the  construction  lines,  a  very  neat 
map  can  be  made.  Another  way  is  to 
get  some  "onion-skin"  paper,  or  some 
tracing  cloth,  tack  it  over  the  penciled 
map,  and  trace  the  lines  right  through, 
using  black  India  ink.  This  tracing 
can  be  blueprinted,  just  as  a  photo- 
graphic film.  A  plain,  neat  title,  de- 
scribing location  of  map ;  who  made  it 
and  when  ;  the  scale  used ;  why  ft  was 
made,  if  it  was  made  for  a  special  pur- 


pose,  and  the  direction  of  the  north 
point,  ought  to  be  on  every  map.  The 
topographic  sheets  pubHshed  by  the 
United    States    Geological    Survey   are 


.0^ 


From  an  Original  Drawing  of  a  Survey  of  Mount 

Vernon,  Made  by  George  Washington 

at  the  Age  of  14 

good  samples  to  follow.  They  have 
been  published  for  a  great  many  places 
all  over  the  country,  and  single  copies 
can  be  obtained  by  sending  10  cents  to 
the  Director,  United  States  Geological 
Survey,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Plane  tables  are  almost  as  easily 
made  as  they  are  bought.  If  there  is  no 
old  drawing  board  around  the  house, 
a  new  bread  board  from  the  ten-cent 
store  will  serve.  For  ordinary  work, 
a  table  which  is  15  or  20  in.  square  will 
do  very  well.  The  board  must  be 
mounted  on  a  tripod  so  that  it  will  be 
rigid  while  it  is  being  worked  upon 
and  yet  can  be  undamped  and  oriented. 
A  brass  plate,  with  a  hole  in  it  and  a 
nut  soldered  over  the  hole,  screwed 
to  the  bottom  of  the  board  will  per- 
mit the  board  and  tripod  to  be  bolted 
together  in  good  shape.  Another 
method,  which  is  not  nearly  as  good,  is 
to  drill  a  hole  clear  through  the  board, 
countersink  it  on  top  for  a  bolt  head, 
and  bolt  the  board  and  tripod  head 
directly  together.  With  the  brass  plate 
and  nut,  the  camera  tripod  can  be 
pressed  into  service  if  a  nut  of  the 
proper  size  has  been  used.  The  camera 
tripod  is,  however,  apt  to  be  wabbly 


with  a  drawing  board  on  top ;  a  much 
more  satisfactory  tripod  can  be  built 
as  shown  in  the  accompanying  draw- 
ings. Each  leg  is  made  of  two  strips 
of  wood,  %  by  %  in.  and  3  ft.  long. 
These  strips  are  screwed  together  at 
their  lower  ends,  gripping  a  spike  be- 
tween them  which  will  prevent  the  legs 
from  slipping  on  the  ground.  The  tops 
of  the  strips  are  spread  apart  and 
screwed  to  the  opposite  ends  of  an  oak 
or  maple  cleat.  This  cleat  is,  in  turn, 
screwed  to  the  under  side  of  the  cir- 
cular tripod  head. 

In  place  of  the  two  needles  and  the 
ruler  described  for  marking  the  line  of 
sight,  most  plane-table  men  use  an 
alidade,  which  is  a  combination  of 
two  sights  and  a  straightedge.  A  very 
simple  alidade  may  be  made  by  mount- 
ing two  needles  on  a  ruler.  The 
straight  edge  of  the  ruler  is  placed 
against  the  needle  which  marks  the 
station  at  which  the  plane  table  is  set 
up.  Then,  by  swinging  the  ruler 
around  this  needle  until  its  two  sight- 
ing needles  come  in  line  with  some 
object,  the  line  of  sight  can  be  drawn 
directly  on  the  paper  along  the  edge 
of  the  ruler.  A  surveyor  in  India  once 
made  an  alidade  out  of  a  piece  of 
straightedge  and  two  sights  made  of 
native  coins  hammered  out  by  a  native 
blacksmith.  Two  pieces  of  cigar  box, 
one  with  a  fine  vertical  saw  slit  in 
it,  and  the  other  with  a  vertical  slot 
and  a  piece  of  fine  wire  or  silk  thread 
stretched  down  the  center,  glued  to  a 
well  planed,  straight,  flat  piece  of 
wood,  make  a  fine  alidade.  A  careful 
worker  may  be  able  to  put  his  sights 
on  hinges  so  that  they  will  fold  down 
when  not  in  use. 

More  than  anything  else,  map  mak- 
ing rewards  care  and  accuracy,  and 
shows  up  slipshod  workmanship.  If 
the  pencils  are  sharp,  the  lines  fine,  and 
if  the  work  is  checked  often,  beautiful 
maps  can  be  made  with  very  simple  ap- 
paratus. 

CWhite  marks  on  waxed  surfaces  may 
be  removed  by  rubbing  lightly  with  a 
soft  rag  moistened  in  alcohol,  after 
which  rub  with  raw  linseed  oil. 


Machine  for  Sketching  Pictures 

An  ordinary  drawing  board,  with 
the  attachments  shown,  provides  an 
easy  way   to   sketch   pictures,   even   if 


This  Machine  Aids  a  Person  in  Drawing  the  True 
Outline  of  a  Picture 

one  is  not  proficient  in  this  line  of 
work.  It  is  only  necessary  to  look 
through  the  sight  and  move  the  pencil 
about  so  that  the  knot  in  the  thread 
follows  the  outline  of  the  landscape  or 
object  being  drawn. 

The  size  of  the  machine  depends  on 
the  one  building  it,  but  a  fair-sized 
drawing  board  is  sufficient  for  the  be- 
ginner. A  strip  of  wood  is  fastened 
to  the  board,  near  one  edge,  which  has 
a  metal  piece  on  each  end,  fastened  to 
the  under  side  and  bent  up  over  the 
end  to  form  an  extension  for  the  rod 
to  support  the  moving  parts.  The 
strip  of  wood  should  be  54  i"-  wide 
and  14  in.  thick,  and  the  sliding  arm, 
holding  the  pencil,  l/^  in.  wide  and  Vi 
in.  thick.  A  like  strip,  but  much 
shorter  than  the  one  fastened  to  the 
board,  is  also  fitted  with  metal  pieces 
in  an  'inverted  position  so  the  projec- 
tions will  be  downward.  A  rn-'m.  rod 
is  run  through  holes  in  the  metal 
pieces  of  the  strips  at  both  ends,  and 


soldered  to  those  on  the  strip  fastened 
to  the  board.  This  will  make  a 
hinged  joint,  as  well  as  one  that  will 
allow  the  upper  strip  to  slide  hori- 
zontally. 

Centrally  located  on  the  upper 
strip  are  two  more  strips,  fastened 
with  screws  at  right  angles  to  the 
former,  with  a  space  between  them  of 
I/O  in.  for  the  sliding  center  piece  hold- 
ing the  pencil.  These  pieces  are  fur- 
ther braced  with  a  wire  at  the  back, 
and  crosspieces  are  screwed  both  on 
top  and  under  side,  to  make  a  rigid 
guide  for  the  sliding  pencil  holder.  An 
upright  is  fastened  to  the  side  of  one 
of  these  pieces  over  the  center  of  the 
upper  horizontal  sliding  piece  for  a 
screw  eye  to  hold  the  thread.  An- 
other screw  eye  is  turned  into  the 
crosspiece  just  under  the  one  on  the 
support,  so  that  the  thread  will  run 
perpendicularly  between  them.  Two 
more  screw  eyes  are  fastened,  one  into 
the  upper  surface  of  the  rear  cross- 
piece,  and  the  other  in  the  end  of  the 
pencil  holder,  near  the  pencil.  By 
connecting  these  screw  eyes,  as  shown, 
with  a  thread,  having  a  rubber  band 
fastened  in  the  rear  end  and  a  knot 
tied  in  it  near  the  screw  eye  in  the 
upper  end  of  the  vertical  stick,  a  means 
for  following  the  outlines  of  the  pic- 
ture is  provided. 

A  vertical  stick  is  fastened  to  the 
front  edge  of  the  board  by  means  of 
a  notch  and  wedge.  In  the  upper  end 
of  this  stick  a  very  small  hole  is  bored 
for  a  sight,  similar  to  a  peep  sight  on 
a  rifle. 

To  use  the  machine,  set  the  board 
on  a  table,  or  tripod,  and  level  it  up 
in  front  of  the  object  to  be  drawn. 
Look  through  the  sight  at  the  front  of 
the  board  and  move  the  pencil  about 
to  keep  the  knot  of  the  thread  on  the 
outlines  of  the  picture  to  be  drawn. — 
Contributed  by  \Ym.  C.  Coppess, 
Union  City,  Ind. 


CA  walnut  filler  is  made  of  3  lb.  burnt 
Turkey  umber,  1  lb.  of  burnt  Italian 
sienna',  both  ground  in  oil,  then  mixed 
to  a  paste  with  1  qt.  of  turpentine  and 
1  pt.  of  japan  drier. 


THE  BOY  SURVEYOR 

Camera  Purveying 

hu  Harold  G.McGee 


■.^s^ 


[This  article  exjilains  the  preparation  of  the  camera 
for  taking  the  pictures  at  each  of  the  three  stations, 
after  which  the  plates  are  developed,  printed  and  kept 
until  a  convenient  time  may  be  had  for  plotting  the 
ground.  The  succeeding  article  will  give  in  detail  the 
making  of   the  map   from   the  photographs. — Editor.] 


CAMERA  surveying  is  simply  plane- 
table  surveying  in  which  the  land- 
scape has  been  photographically  picked 
up  and  carried  indoors.  It  has  the  enor- 
mous advantage  that  one  can  ol)tain  a 
record  of  the  utmost  fidelity  in  a  small 
fraction  of  the  time  taken  to  do  the 
field  work  of  even  a  sketchy  plane- 
table  survey,  and  that  plotting  can  be 
done  in  the  comfort  and  with  the  con- 
veniences of  a  drafting  room.  When 
the  hours  one  can  work  are  short  or  the 
periods  of  clear,  dry  weather  are  few 
and  far  between,  a  camera  is  an  ideal 
surveying  instrument.  It  sees  and  re- 
cords with  the  click  of  the  shutter. 

Surveying  by  camera  was  proposed 
early  in  the  infant  days  of  photogra- 
phy; but  not  until  the  eighties  were 
photographic  surveys  commenced  in 
earnest.  With  the  extensive  surveys 
of  the  Canadian  Rockies  by  the  Cana- 
dian government  within  the  past 
decade  and  the  topographic  surveys  of 
the  Alps,  the  camera  has  very  recently 
indeed  achieved  the  dignity  of  being 
known  as  a  "sure-enough"  surveying 
instrument.  Even  today,  few  survey- 
ors have  ever  u^ed  photography  for 
making  surveys,  even  though  for 
mountain  topography  or  any  survey 
which  includes  a  large  number  of  dis- 
tinctive, inaccessible  landmarks,  the 
camera  asks  no  odds  of  either  the  plane 
table  or  the  stadia  transit. 

A  camera  survey  taken  of  the  sum- 
mer cottage  or  the  camping  ground 
will  be  a  source  of  great  delight  while 
it  is  being  plotted  up  of  winter  even- 
ings. There  is  something  weird  in 
watching  each  tent  and  dock  slip  into 


its  place  with  naught  but  a  pair  of  di- 
viders and  a  few  pictures  to  do  the  trick. 
And  when  the  map  is  done,  there  are 
all  the  data  to  tell  just  where  a  ten- 
nis court  can  go  or  a  walk  ought  to  be 
built. 

In  making  surveys,  a  plate  camera 
will  do  more  accurate  work  than  will 
a  film  camera  ;  and  a  fixed  focus  is  a  big 
help  in  plotting.  In  spite  of  the  spe- 
cial and  expensive  instruments  which 
have  been  designed  solely  for  survey- 
ing work,  a  little  ingenuity  on  the  part 
of  the  owner  of  most  any  kind  of  a 
camera,  be  it  big  or  little,  film  or  plate, 
box  or  folding,  will  do  wonders  to- 
ward producing  good  results. 

To  be  used  for  surveying,  a  camera 


m\ 

@ 

==-^^:Mii;. .,     \.m 

® 

Ko)  (  CI3  )  (o) :  IS 

j(     1 

A  T-Shaped  Level  with  Adjusting  Nuts  is  Located  on 
the  Camera  Box,  or  on  the  Bed  of  the  Folding  Camera 

must  be  fitted  with  a  spirit  level  and 
some  arrangement  for  cross  hairs.  A 
T-shaped  level  on  the  bed  or  the  box, 
carefully  adjusted,  will  show  when  the 


plate  is  vertical  and  when  the  perpen- 
dicular line  from  the  center  of  the  plate 
to  the  center  of  the  lens  is  horizontal. 
Actual  cross  hairs  in  the  camera  are 
not  as  good  as  four  tiny  points  of  V's, 
one  projecting  from  the  middle  of  each 
side,  top,  and  bottom  of  the  camera  box, 
just  in  front  of  the  plate  holder.  How 
the  level  is  to  be  adjusted  so  that  a 
line  between  the  upper  and  lower 
points  will  be  truly  vertical,  and  one 
through  the  die-side  points  truly  hori- 
zontal and  on  a  le^el  with  the  center  of 
the  lens  when  the  bubbles  are  in  the 
center  of  the  spirit  level,  will  be  de- 
scribed later. 

Camera  Preparation 

To  prepare  a  camera  for  Surveying, 
it  is  necessary  to  arrange  that  the  axial 
center  line  through  the  lens  to  the  plate 
shall  be  level,  and  that  the  location  of 
the  horizontal  and  vertical  center  lines 
shall  be  indicated  on  the  plate.  A  spirit 
level  is  the  best  solution  of  the  first 
problem,  and  indicated  center  points  of 
the  second. 

The  spirit  level  preferably  may  be 
of  the  T-form,  with  two  level  tubes, 
or  of  the  "universal"  circular  form, 
with  which  some  hand  cameras  are 
equipped.  However,  ordinary  hand- 
camera  levels  are  generally  too  rough 
and  difficult  of  adjustment  to  insure  ac- 
curate work.  On  a  view  camera,  the 
level  may  be  conveniently  located  on 
the  bed  which  carries  the  lens  board. 
If  it  is  screwed  to  the  under  side  of  the 
arms  it  will  be  convenient  for  use  and 
out  of  the  way.  The  bed  is  likewise  a 
good  location  for  the  level  on  a  folding 
hand  camera,  while  the  top  of  the  box 
is  about  the  only  possible  location  with 
a  box-type  instrument. 

The  cross  hairs  or  center-line  indi- 
cators should  be  placed  on  the  back  of 
the  camera,  just  in  front  of  the  plate. 
If  indicators  are  used,  fine-thread  cross 
hairs  or  pencil  lines  drawn  on  the 
ground  glass  must  be  used  temporarily 
for  making  adjustments.  Generally, 
the  two  cross  hairs  will  divide  the 
plate  vertically  and  horizontally  into 
four  equal  parts  and  the  hairs  or  indi- 
cators will  join  the  center  point  of  the 


sides  and  top  and  bottom  of  the  open- 
ing immediately  in  front  of  the  plate. 
But  it  is  essential  that  the  cross  hairs 
have  their  intersection   in   a   line  p«:r- 


5ECTI0N 


The  Ordinary  Round  Level  may  b*?  Used,  but  It  Is 
Not  so  Good  as  the  T-Level 

pendicular  to  the  plate  and  passing 
through  the  center  of  the  lens.  Thus 
in  a  camera  in  which  the  lens  is  not 
placed  in  the  center  of  the  plate,  or  in 
which  the  rising  and  sliding  front  has 
placed  the  lens  ofif  center,  either  or 
both  of  the  cross  hairs  may  be  off  cen- 
ter with  regard  to  the  plate. 

After  the  cross-hair  indicators  and 
the  level  have  been  attached  to  the 
camera,  adjustments  are  necessary. 
Surveyors  distinguish  between  perma- 
nent and  temporary  adjustments,  per- 
manent adjustments  being  those  for 
which  the  instrument  maker  is  respon- 
sible, and  temporary  adjustments  be- 
ing those  which  can  be  and  are  made 
in  the  field.  The  principal  permanent 
or  maker's  adjustments  of  the  survey- 
ing camera  are  those  which  insure  the 
center  line  through  the  lens,  or  axial 
center  line,  or  line  of  collimation,  being 
perpendicular  to  the  plate,  the  inter- 
section of  the  cross  hairs  being  on  this 
line,  and  that  the  cross  hairs  them- 
selves are  mutually  perpendicular. 
Temporary  or  field  adjustments  must 
be  so  made  that  one  tube  of  the  spirit 


lO 


level  shall  be  parallel  with  the  axial  cen- 
ter line  through  the  lens  and  the  other 
parallel  with  the  horizontal  cross  hair. 
The  first  field  adjustment  is  made  in 
the  following  manner.     The  camera  is 


LEN5 


I  CB05S  HAIRS  MABKED 
r  ON  GROUND  CLASS 


The  Cross  Hairs  or  Center-Line  Indicators  should  be 
Placed  on  the  Back  of  the  Camera 

set  up,  complete  with  thread  or  pencil- 
line  cross  hairs  and  level,  and  focused 
on  a  stake  whose  top  shall  just  come  to 
the  horizontal  cross  hair  at  the  center 
of  the  plate,  when  the  level  tube  paral- 
lel with  the  center  line  of  the  lens  reads 
level.    This  stake  may  be  driven  to  the 
required  elevation  or  a  rod  may  be  held 
on  it  and  the  point  where,  in  the  image 
on  the  ground  glass,  it  is  intersected  by 
the  cross  hair  marked  with  pencil  on 
the  rod  as  it  .is  held  vertically  on  the 
stake.     The   distance  to  this   stake   is 
measured  from  the  camera  and  another 
similar    stake    set    at   the   same    eleva- 
tion by  the  same  method,  but  in  an  op- 
posite direction  and  at  the  same  dis- 
tance   from    the    camera.      The    two 
stakes  or  the  mark  on  the  vertical  rod 
which  is  held  on  these  stakes  in  turn 
will  be  level  with  each  other,  though 
they  may  not  be  level  with  the  cam- 
era.    The  camera  is  then  moved  to  a 
point  very  much   closer  to  one   stake 
than  to  the  other  and  again  leveled.  The 
vertical    distance    from    one    stake-top 
or  mark  on  the  rod  is  measured  and  the 
camera    then    focused    on    the    second 
stake.     If  the  level  is  actually  in  ad- 
justment, the  distance  from  the  second 
stake  top  or  mark  will  be  exactly  the 
same  as  it  was  on  the  first.     If  not,  the 


difference,  or  "error,"  is  found  between 
the  two  vertical  distances  from  the 
cross  hair  to  the  two  stake  tops.  Half 
this  error  is  corrected  by  raising  or 
lowering  one  end  of  the  level  tube  by 
means  of  the  threaded  nuts  which  are 
placed  on  it  for  the  purpose.  The 
whole  process  is  then  repeated  until 
the  vertical  distances  from  the  horizon- 
tal cross  hair  at  the  center  to  the  two 
level  stakes,  one  close  to  and  one  dis- 
tant from  the  camera,  are  identical. 
The  axial  center  line  of  the  lens,  or 
the  line  of  collimation,  is  then  in  ad- 
justment with  the  level.  All  that  re- 
mains is  to  make  the  horizontal  cross 
hair  parallel  with  the  cross  level. 

This  is  done  by  using  one  marked 
stake.  The  camera  is  leveled  as  far  as 
the  "fore-and-aft"  level  is  concerned 
and  the  horizontal  cross-hair  point 
at  the  center  marked  on  the  stake. 
The  camera  is  then  swung  round 
until  the  stake  just  shows  on 
one  edge  of  the  ground  glass,  the  fore- 
and-aft  or  longitudinal  level  being 
checked  to  make  sure  its  bubble 
is  still  in  the  center.  Then  the 
bubble  in  the  cross  or  transverse  level 
tube  is  brought  to  the  center  by  means 
of  the  threaded  adjusting  nuts,  and 
the  camera  is  thrown  hard  over  so  that 
the  stake  appears   along  the  opposite 


GROUND 
GLASS^. 


LENS 


The  Maker's  Adjustments  Should  Insure  the   Line  of 
Collimation  being  Perpendicular  to  the  Plate 

edge  of  the  plate.  This  time,  the  bub- 
ble of  the  longitudinal  level  being  kept 
in  the  center,  half  the  error  introduced 
by  turning  from  one  edge  to  the  other 


11 


is  corrected.  All  of  the  adjustments 
are  then  rechecked,  and  if  they  are 
found  correct  the  instrument  is  ready 
for  use.  If  a  circular  level  be  used,  the 
method  of  adjustment  is  exactly  the 
same,  the  swing  of  the  bubble  along  the 
axis  of  the  camera  and  transverse  to  it 
being  used  to  determine  the  longitudi- 
nal and  transverse  adjustments.  Slips 
of  paper  may  be  used  for  lifting  one 
side  in  place  of  the  adjustment  nuts  of 
the  T-level. 


A  leveling  head  or  ball-and-socket 
joint  on  the  top  of  the  tripod  will  be 
found  of  material  aid  in  leveling  the 
instrument. 

No  great  mechanical  genius  is  neces- 
sary to  prepare  a  camera  for  or  to  make 
a  successful  camera  survey.  But  if  a 
boy  have  not  patience  and  an  infinite 
desire  for  accuracy,  camera  surveying, 
or  indeed  any  sort  of  surveying,  will  be 
a  source  of  neither  pleasure,  satisfac- 
tion, nor  profit. 


To  Make  Transparent  Paper 

Transparent  paper  of  parchmentlike 
appearance  and  strength,  which  can  be 
dyed  with  almost  all  kinds  of  aniline 
dyes  and  assumes  much  more  brilliant 
hues  than  ordinary  colored  glass,  can 
be  made  in  the  following  manner:  Pro- 
cure a  white  paper,  made  of  cotton  or 
linen  rags,  and  put  it  in  soak  in  a  sat- 
urated solution  of  camphor  in  alcohol. 
When  dry,  the  paper  so  treated  can  be 
cut  up  into  any  forms  suitable  for 
parts  of  lamp  shades,  etc. 


Toasting  Bread  over  an  Open  Fire 

Having  experienced  some  difficulty 
in  obtaining  good  toast  over  a  gas  or 
open  fire  I  tried  the  following  plan 
with  good  results :  An  old  tin  pan  was 
placed  over  the  flame  and  the  ordinary 
wire  bread  toaster  clasping  the  slice  of 
bread  was  held  about  1/2  in.  from  the 
pan.  In  a  few  minutes  the  toast  was 
crisp  and  ready  to  serve. — Contributed 
by  Katy  Doherty,  New  York  City. 


Adjustable  Stilts 

The  beginner  with  stilts  always 
selects  short  sticks  so  that  he  will  not 
be  very  far  from  the  ground,  but  as  he 
becomes  more  experienced,  the  longer 
the  sticks  the  better.  Then,  too,  the 
small  boy  and  the  large  boy  require 
dififerent  lengths  of  sticks.  The  device 
shown  makes  a  pair  of  sticks  universal 
for  use  of  beginners  or  a  boy  of  any 
age  or  height. 


To  make  the  stilts,  procure  two  long 
hardwood  sticks  of  even  length,  and 
smooth  up  the  edges ;  then  begin  at  a 
point  1  ft.  from  one  end  and  bore  13 


Stilts  Having  Stirrups  That  can  be  Set  at  Any 
Desired  Height 

holes,  %  in.  in  diameter  and  2  in.  apart 
from  center  to  center.  If  there  is  no 
diestock  at  hand,  have  a  blacksmith, 
or  mechanic,  make  a  thread  on  both 
ends  of  a  %-in.  rod,  13  in.  long.  Bend 
the  rod  in  the  shape  shown,  so  that 
the  two  threaded  ends  will  be  just  2 
in.  apart  from  center  to  center.  The 
thread  on  the  straight  horizontal  end 
should  be  so  long  that  a  nut  can  be 
placed  on  both  sides  of  the  stick.  A 
piece  of  a  garden  hose  or  small  rubber 
hose,  slipped  on  the  rod,  will  keep  the 
shoe  sole  from  slipping.  The  steps 
can  be  set  in  any  two  adjacent  holes 
to  give  the  desired  height. — Contrib- 
uted by  Walter  Veene,  San  Diego,  Cal. 


12 


Grape  Arbor  Built  of  Poles 

In  building  outdoor  structures,  such 
as  grape  arbors,  pergolas,  or  arches,  it 
is  not  necessary  to  use  sawed 
lumber,  as  they  can  be  built 
as  substantial,  and  fre- 
quently more  artis- 
tic and  cheap, 
o  f     poles. 


Arbor  Made  of  Poles  Which  are  Supported  by  One 
Row  of  Uprights 

These  are  easily  obtained,  especially  in 
the  country  or  in  the  smaller  cities 
where  there  usually  are  many  trees  and 
gardens. 

The  illustrated  grape  arbor  consists 
of  but  one  row  of  uprights.  Across  the 
top  of  each  is  placed  a  horizontal  sup- 
port for  the  roof  poles,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  which  is  carried  near  its  outer 
end  by  an  inclined  brace.  The  brace 
should  be  connected  at  each  end  with 
a  toe  joint,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The 
upper  end  of  the  upright  is  beveled  off 
on  both  sides,  to  form  a  double-splayed 
joint  with  the  crosspiece.  In  order  to 
securely  bind  the  roof  of  the  arbor, 
the  long  poles,  or  roof  beams,  should 
be  notched  near  each  end  to  fit  over  the 
supports.  Similar  notches  in  the  poles 
forming  the  side  of  the  arbor  are  to  fit 
the  uprights,  thereby  binding  them  to- 
gether and  preventing  toppling  over. 
Each  set  of  long  poles  connecting  two 


uprights  should  have  the  end  notches 
the  same  distance  apart,  one  pole  being 
used  as  a  gauge.  All  the  joints  and 
notches  may  be  cut  with  a  sharp 
hatchet. 

In  setting  the  arbor,  the  uprights 
should  first  be  assembled  complete  with 
braces  and  roof  supports,  and  placed  in 
the  ground  a  distance  apart  corre- 
sponding to  that  of  the  notches  on  the 
long  poles.  The  uprights  being  set, 
the  long  poles  are  placed  and  fastened 
with  nails.- — Contributed  by  W.  E. 
Crane,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 


Forcing    Fruit   Blossoms   for 
Decorations 

Twigs  trimmed  from  the  fruit  trees 
rather  late  in  the  season  had  quite 
large  buds  on  them,  and  we  experi- 
mented with  them  in  this  way:  A  large 
box  was  filled  with  wet  sand,  and  the 
twigs  were  stuck  in  it  and  the  box  set 
in  the  warmest  corner  of  the  yard. 
The  buds  soon  swelled  and  burst  into 
bloom.  We  then  arranged  a  smaller 
box  of  sand  and  put  the  blooming  twigs 
into  it,  and  took  it  into  the  house  where 
they  remained  fresh  for  several  days. — 
Contributed  by  A.  Louise  Culver,  Oak- 
land, Cal. 


Corner   Cleaner   Attached  to  a 
Scrubbing  Brush 

Dirt  will  accumulate  and  harden  in 
the  corners  of  a  floor  and  the  base- 
board just  because  the  end  of  the 
scrubbing  brush 
will  not  enter 
them.  The  water 
gets  in  with  the 
dirt  and  leaves  a 
hard  crust.  This 
may  be  easily 
cleaned  out  if  a 
metal  point  is  at- 
tached to  the  end 
of  the  brush  handle,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  It  is  used  as  a  scraper  to 
break  up  the  crust  and  clean  it  out 
where  the  bristles  will  not  enter. — Con- 
tributed by  L.  E.  Turner,  New  York 
City. 


SURVEYOR 

Plotting  a 
mera  Survey 

Harold  0.  McOee 


[The  camera  records  pictures  that  can  be  taken  in  camp  or  on  a  vacation  trip  and  kept  until 
more  leisure  may  be  had  in  winter  for  plotting  the  ground.— Editor.  ] 


A  PREVIOUSLY  measured  base 
■^*-  triangle  with  "stations"  at  each 
corner  is  necessary  for  making  a  cam- 
era survey,  just  as  it  is  for  the  plane- 
table  survey.  It  is  preferable  to  have 
each  of  the  three  sides  measured  inde- 
pendently, though  if  one  side  has  been 
accurately  chained,  the  other  two  may 
be  less  satisfactorily  determined  by  the 
use  of  the  plane  table.  If  the  camera 
has  a  fixed  focus,  it  is  possible  to  make 
an  entire  survey  from  the  two  ends  of 
a  single  base  line ;  but  this  method  has 
no  check  and  should  be  used  only  when 
and  where  the  triangle  method  is  im- 
possible. With  an  adjustable  focus,  it 
will  rarely  give  good  results. 

Once  the  triangle  has  been  laid  out, 
the  fieldwork  is  very  simple.  The  cam- 
era is  set  up  at  one  station,  carefully 


leveled,  and  then  a  series  of  pictures  is 
taken,  each  single  plate  overlapping  the 
last  so  as  to  form  a  panorama  of  the 
area  to  be  mapped.  The  focus  of  the 
lens  must  not  be  changed  during  a 
series,  and  plotting  is  facilitated  by 
keeping  the  focus  constant  during  all 
the  exposures  which  make  up  a  survey. 
To  secure  good  depth  of  focus,  a  small 
stop  is  generally  used,  since  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  a  tripod  to  keep  the  camera 
level.  If  contours  are  to  be  drawn,  the 
height  of  the  lens  above  the  ground  at 
the  station  should  be  measured  and 
recorded.  After  a  series  has  been  taken 
at  each  station,  the  fieldwork  is  com- 
plete. It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  keep  a 
record  of  the  plate  numbers,  and  the 
order  in  which  and  the  station  from 
which    the    exposures    were    made,    so 


Two  Fine  Hair  Lines  must  be 
to  Plot  From,  or  to  Make 


5TA.C 


Scratched   on    Each    Plate    Before    It   is    Used 
Pictures  from  Which  the  Plotting  is  Done 


13 


14 


15 


that  the  10  or  12  plates  which  a  small 
survey  will  comprise  may  not  get  hope- 
lessly mixed  up.  If  the  camera  is 
turned  each  time  to  the  right,  clock- 
wise, and  the  plates  are  numbered  A-1, 
A-2,  B-4:,  etc.,  indicating  by  A-1,  for 
example,  the  leftmost  plate  taken  at 
Sta.  A;  by  A-3,  the  plate  just  to  the 
right  of  A-1,  just  as  II  is  to  the  right 
of  I  on  the  clock  dial,  and  by  B-4,  the 
fourth  to  the  right  taken  at  Sta.  B, 
there  ought  to  be  no  difficulty  in 
identifying  the  plates  after  the 
exact  details  of  the  ground  are 
forgotten. 

While  the  pictures  are  be- 
ing taken,  "flags"  of  white 
wood  or  with  white-cloth 
streamers   tied    to   them 
must   be    stuck    in   the 
ground  or  held  at  the 
other  stations  in  or- 
der that  their  exact 
location     can     be 
readily   and   cer- 
tainly found  on 

In  Plotting  a 
Camera  Survey  the 
Base  Triangle  is 
First  Carefully 
Laid  Out  on  the 
Paper  to  Such 
a  Scale  That 
the  Map  will 
be  of  Desir* 
able  Size 


make  the  prints  from  which  the  plot- 
ting is  to  be  done.  One  of  these  lines 
should  connect  the  points  at  the  top 
and  bottom  of  the  plate,  and  the  other, 
the  points  at  the  sides.  The  vertical 
line  divides  the  objects  which  were  on 
the  right  of  the  center  of  the  camera 
from  those  that  were  on  the  left,  and 
the  horizontal  line  connecting  the 
points  on  the  sides  separates  the  ob- 
jects that  were  above  the  camera 
from  those  that  were  below. 

If  the  survey  has  been  made 
with  a  lens  that  does  not  cover 
the  plate  fully  or  that  has  con- 
siderable   uncorrected    aber- 
ration,    causing     distorted 
shapes    near    the 
■^^t**    edges    and    corners 
of   the   picture,   re- 
sults    can     be    mate- 
rially   improved    by 
plotting    from    en- 
largements.     In 
making    the    en- 
largements, 
the    back    of 
the    camera 
should  be 
removed 


STA.  A 


—  CORRECT  MAPtiING  CONSTANT 
INCORRECT  MAPPING  CONSTANT 


the  plates.  A  few  distinctive  stakes, 
some  with  one  and  some  with  two  or 
three  strips  of  cloth  tied  to  them, 
placed  at  important  points  on  the 
ground  will  help  immensely  in  the  loca- 
tion of  knolls  and  shore  lines. 

In  plotting  a  camera  survey,  either 
the  original  plates,  the  prints,  or  en- 
largements may  be  used.  The  plates 
are  the  most  accurate  if  a  corrected 
lens  has  been  used ;  and  the  enlarge- 
ments made  back  through  the  lens  will 
be  best  if  the  images  on  the  plates  are 
distorted.  In  any  case,  two  fine  hair 
lines  must  be  scratched  on  each  plate 
before  it  is  used  to  plot  from,  or  to 


STA.C 


and  the  light  should  be  allowed  to  pass 
through  the  plate  and  the  lens  in  the 
reverse  order  and  direction  of  that 
in  which  it  passed  when  the  negative 
was  made.  In  this  way,  the  errors 
which  were  made  by  the  lens  originally 
will  be  straightened  out,  and  the  re- 
sulting enlargements  will  be  free  from 
distortion.  To  make  successful  en- 
largements for  surveying  work,  the 
easel  on  which  the  bromide  paper  is 
tacked  must  be  square  with  the  cam- 
era, and  the  paper  itself  should  be  flat 
and  smooth.  It  is  just  as  necessary  to 
keep  the  easel  at  a  constant  distance 
from  the  camera  during  the  enlarging 


16 


as  it  was  to  keep  the  same  focus  while 
the  original  negatives  were  being 
made. 

In  plotting  a  camera  survey  the  base 
triangle  is  first  carefully  laid  out  on  the 
paper  to  such  a  scale  that  the  map  will 
be  of  a  desirable  size.  With  the  apex 
of  the  triangle  representing  Sta.  A,  say, 
as  a  center,  a  circle  is  drawn  with  a 
radius  as  nearly  equal  as  possible  to 
the  distance  between  the  optical  center 
of  the  lens  and  the  plate  when  the  pic- 
ture was  taken.  Ordinarily  this  will 
be  the  focal  length  of  the  lens ;  but  if 
the  camera  was  not  focused  most 
sharply  on  an  object  a  great  distance 
off,  the  radius  may  be  greater.  This 
radius  is  called  the  "mapping  con- 
stant." When  an  approximate  distance 
for  the  mapping  constant  has  been  de- 
termined by  measurements  on  the  cam- 
era or  by  knowing  the  focal  length  of 
the  lens,  the  circle,  or  rather  the  arc, 
FG  between  the  two  lines  to  stations 
B  and  C,  is  drawn.  The  plates  taken 
at  Sta.  A,  and  ranged  around  this  cir- 
cle on  the  outside  and  just  touching  it, 
will  show  the  landscape  exactly  as 
seen  from  A. 

In  the  accompanying  diagram  show- 
ing the  method  of  determining  the 
mapping  constant  and  of  locating  the 
traces  of  the  plates,  the  letters  F,  G, 
H,  J,  P,  R  and  S  designate  points  re- 
ferring to  the  true  mapping  constant, 
and  the  construction  necessary  to  lo- 
cate the  traces  of  the  plates.  The 
primed  letters  F',  F",  G',  G",  etc.,  are 
used  to  show  similar  points  where  the 
trial  mapping  constant  is  either  too 
long  or  too  short.  The  following  de- 
scription refers  equally  to  the  construc- 
tion necessary  with  true  or  trial-map- 
ping constants. 

Next,  a  line  FH  is  drawn  perpendic- 
ular to  the  line  AB  of  the  triangle  at 
the  point  F  where  the  arc  intersects  it. 
On  this  line  is  laid  ofif,  in  the  proper 
direction,  a  distance  equal  to  the  dis- 
tance on  the  plate  or  print  from  Sta.  B 
to  the  center  vertical  line.  From  this 
point  is  drawn  a  light  line,  HJ,  toward 
the  center  of  the  arc.  Where  this  line 
crosses  the  arc,  at  J,  a  tangent,  KJM. 
is  drawn,  which  will  show  the  location 


of  the  plate  A-1  on  the  drawing.  This 
line  is  called  the  trace  of  the  plate.  An 
object  which  appears  both  on  plate  A-1 
and  A-2  is  next  picked  out  and  its  loca- 
tion on  the  trace  of  plate  A-1  deter- 
mined by  measuring  the  distance  JN 
equal  to  the  distance  on  the  plate  from 
the  image  of  the  object  to  the  center 
vertical  line.  A  light  line,  NO,  joining 
this  last-found  point  with  Sta.  A,  is 
then  drawn.  Where  this  last  line 
crosses  the  arc,  at  O,  a  tangent,  OP,  to 
the  arc  is  drawn,  and  the  trace  of  the 
plate  A-2  is  found  with  the  aid  of  the 
point  which  appears  on  both  plates  just 
as  plate  A-1  was  located  from  the  pic- 
ture of  Sta.  B.  The  traces  of  plates 
A-3  and  A-4  are  found  in  exactly  the 
same  way  as  was  that  of  A-2.  If  the 
radius  of  the  arc  has  been  estimated 
correctly,  Sta.  C  will  be  found  to  be 
exactly  on  the  point  where  the  trace  of 
the  plate  showing  the  station  crosses 
the  line  AC  on  the  paper.  If  it  does 
not  fall  on  the  line  AC,  which  is  gen- 
erally the  case,  everything  must  be 
erased  except  the  original  triangle. 
First,  however,  a  radial  line  S'G',  or 
S"G",  is  drawn  from  the  location  of 
Sta.  C  on  the  trace  of  the  plate  A-2, 
3  or  4,  as  the  case  may  be,  to  the  arc, 
and  the  point  of  intersection  of  this 
line  and  the  arc,  G'  or  G",  is  preserved. 
If  this  point,  G'  or  G",  is  outside  the 
base  triangle,  the  next  trial  arc  should 
be  drawn  with  a  larger  mapping  con- 
stant as  a  radius,  or  vice  versa.  If  the 
second  mapping  constant  is  off,  find 
again  the  point  of  intersection  of  the 
radial  line  through  the  new  location  of 
Sta.  C  on  the  newly  located  trace  of 
the  last  plate  and  the  new  arc.  Join 
this  point  and  the  one  found  previ- 
ously, in  the  same  manner,  with  a 
straight  line,  G'G".  The  point  G 
where  this  last  drawn  line  intersects 
the  line  AC  of  the  base  triangle,  will 
be  the  point  through  which  the  arc, 
with  the  correct  mapping  constant  as 
radius,  ought  to  pass,  provided  the  first 
two  approximations  were  not  too  far  in 
error.  This  third  trial  ought  to  make 
the  location  of  the  traces  of  the  plates 
exactly  correct.  If.  however,  the  focus 
of  the  camera  was  changed  between  ex- 


17 


posures  at  one  station,  the  traces  of  the 
plates  will  not  all  be  at  an  equal  dis- 
tance from  the  station  point,  and  their 
location  will  be  an  almost  impossible 
task.  The  traces  of  the  plates  taken  at 
stations  B  and  C  are  found  in  exactly 
the  same  manner  as  were  those  for  Sta. 
A.  After  the  traces  have  all 
been  located,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  ink  them  in  lightly  and 
erase  the  pencil  construction 
lines  which  would  oth 
wise  form  an  impenetr; 
ble  maze.  The  traces 
cated,  the  difficult  and 
tiresome  part  of  the 
plotting  is  over  ;  the 
landscape,  brought  ^^ 
indoors  photo- 
graphically,       i  s 

From  Each  Station  A 

the  Mapping  Con-  ^      /> 

slant  is  Laid  Out  by      ^      ^       i^ 
the  Focal  Distance    j?     (9      O 
of  the  Camera  or       ^     ,         tO 
Distance  of  the        (>       .^ 
Plate  from  the       .^      <?"      ■^ 
Lens,  and  the        '^        " 
Location  of 
Traces  of 
the  Plates 
Determined 


sight  to  the  object.  The  same  object 
is  located  from  another  station  in  the 
same  way ;  as  on  the  plane  table,  the 
intersection  of  the  two  lines  to  the 
same  object  marks  the  location  of  the 
point  which  represents  the  object 
on  the  map. 

Obtaining  elevations  for  the 
^'^     drawing  of  contours  is  a  slight- 
ly longer  process.    Contours 
k->,\       are  lines  joining  points  of 
equal     elevation ;      they 
represent      successive 
shore    lines,    if 
\     >(jj    the       area 
Vj'        mapped    were 
^        h\         inundated  and 
/VX  h"  \  the    water 

V^^    ,    should 

\\\ 

\  W 


\  \ 

\ 

M' 

V 

\ 

M 

Vm' 

'  \ 

Vl"^ 

\ 

\' 

s    \r' 

\ 

\'^ 

STA.  A 


located  as  with  the  plane  table  ;  all  that 
remains  to  be  done  is  to  take  the  sights 
and  find  the  points  on  the  paper  which 
show  where  the  objects  were  on  the 
ground. 

This  taking  the  sights  is  a  simple 
matter.  With  a  pair  of  dividers,  the 
distance  from  a  given  object  from  the 
center  line  of  the  plate  is  measured. 
This  distance  is  laid  ol?  on  the  proper 
side  of  the  point  marking  the  center 
line  of  the  trace  of  the  same  plate ;  a 
radial  line  is  drawn  through  the  trace 
at  the  given  distance  from  the  center- 
line  point  and  the  station  at  which  the 
given  plate  is  taken ;  this  is  one  line  of 


rise  slowly  foot  by  foot.  If  the  con- 
tours are  close  together,  the  ground 
represented  has  a  steep  slope,  and  vice 
versa.  If,  on  a  map,  a  number  of  points 
are  of  known  elevation,  it  is  simply  a 
question  of  judgment  and  practice  to 
tell  where  contour  lines  go. 

Before  contours  can  be  drawn  the 
elevations  of  a  considerable  number  of 
points  must  be  known.  If  the  eleva- 
tion of  any  one  of  them  is  known  and 
the  difference  between  that  one  and 
any  other  can  be  found,  determining 
the  elevation  of  the  second  point  is 
simply  a  problem  in  addition  or  sub- 
traction.    If  it  be  desired  to  find,  for 


18 


instance,  the  difference  in  elevation  be- 
tween Sta.  C  and  the  corner  of  the 
fence,  as  shown  in  the  sketch,  two  solu- 
tions are  possible,  as  follows : 

First :  Perpendicular  to  the  line  of 
sight  from  Sta.  C  to  the  fence  corner, 
two  lines  are  drawn,  one  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  trace  of  the  plate  by  the 
line  of  sight,  and  one  at  the  point  on 
the  paper  which  shows  the  location  of 
the  fence  corner.  On  the  first  of  these 
two  lines  is  laid  off  the  distance  Y', 
equal  to  the  distance  of  the  ground  at 
the  fence  post  above  or  below  the  hori- 
zontal center  line  on  the  plate.  Through 
this  point,  on  the  first  perpendicular  on 
the  line  of  sight,  is  drawn  a  line 
through  the  Sta.  C  and  extended  to  an 
intersection  with  the  second  drawn  per- 
pendicular. The  distance  from  the 
corner  of  the  fence,  on  the  paper,  to 
this  intersection  is  the  distance  Y,  the 
difference  in  elevation  from  the  center 
of  the  camera  at  Sta.  C  to  the  ground 
at  the  fence  post.  This  solution  is 
longer  and  less  desirable  than  the 
second. 

Second :  In  place  of  perpendicular 
lines  to  the  line  of  sight,  the  trace  of 
the  plate,  and  a  line,  through  the  point 
representing  the  oliject,  parallel  with 
the  trace,  may  be  used. 


A  datum  plane,  or  reference  surface, 
from  which  all  elevations  are  measured 
up  to  the  ground  surface  must  be  as- 
sumed. The  United  States  Geological 
Survey  uses  mean,  or  average,  sea  level 
for  the  datum  in  all  its  topographic 
sheets.  Generally,  unless  there  is  a 
United  States  Geological  Survey 
"bench  mark,"  a  monument  of  care- 
fully determined  elevation  referred  to 
sea  level,  within  the  limits  of  the  sur- 
vey, it  is  better  to  assume  the  elevation 
of  some  point,  as  Sta.  C,  at  100  ft.,  or 
greater  if  necessary  to  place  the  datum 
plane  below  the  ground  level  at  all 
points  within  the  area  to  be  mapped. 
Other  elevations  are  figured  from  the 
assumed  elevation  of  Sta.  C.  Allow- 
ance must  be  made  for  the  height  of  the 
center  of  the  camera  above  the  ground 
at  Sta.  C  in  computing  elevations 
above  Sta.  C.  All  elevations  deter- 
mined for  the  purpose  of  drawing  con- 
tours are  ground  elevations  and  not 
the  elevation  of  the  top  of  objects  lo- 
cated on  the  map.  The  topographic 
sheets  of  the  Geological  Sur\  ey  are 
good  examples  to  follow,  in  drawing 
contours.  For  many  purposes,  con- 
tours are  not  essential,  and  the  refine- 
ments necessary  for  their  drawing  may 
be  omitted. 


How  to  Build  a  Skiff 


The  following  is  a  description  of  an 
easily  constructed  IS-ft.  skiff,  suitable 
for  rowing  and  paddling.  This  is  the 
type  used  by  many  duck  hunters,  as  it 


may  be  easily  pushed  through  marshes. 
It  is  constructed  of  %-in.  dressed  pine, 
or  cypress. 

The   sides   consist  of  planks,   14  in. 


-34"— i 


Fic;.4 

The  Skiff  is  Especially  Constructed  for  Use  in  Sliallow  Water  and  Marshes 

by  Duclt  Hunters,  but  with  the  Addition  of  a  Keel  It  Makes 

a  Good  Craft  for  Almost  Any  Water  as  a  Rowboat 


19 


wide,  but  13-in.  planks  may  be  used, 
the  length  being  13  ft.  4  in.  Two  stem 
pieces  are  constructed  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1,  and  the  plank  ends  are  fastened  to 
them  with  screws.  Nail  a  crosspiece 
on  the  plank  edges  in  the  exact  center, 
so  as  to  space  the  planks  34  in.  apart, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  2 ;  then  turn  it  over 
and  nail  another  crosspiece  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  planks  for  width,  and  make 
the  spacing  of  the  other  edges  40  in. 
Plane  the  lower  edges  so  that,  in  plac- 
ing a  board  across  them,  the  surfaces 
will  be  level.  The  floor  boards  are  6 
in.  wide  and  fastened  on  crosswise,  be- 
ing careful  to  apply  plenty  of  red  lead 
between  all  joints  and  using  galvan- 
ized nails,  2  in.  long. 

A  deck,  18  in.  long,  is  fastened  on 
each  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  It  is 
made  of  strips  fastened  to  a  cross- 
piece.  The  seats,  or  thwarts,  consist 
of  10-in.  boards,  and  are  placed  on 
short  strips  fastened  to  the  side  planks 
about  5  in.  from  the  bottom.  The 
oarlocks  are  held  in  a  wedge-shaped 
piece  of  wood,  having  a  piece  of  gas 
pipe  in  them  for  a  bushing,  the  whole 
being  fastened  at  the  upper  edge  of 
the  side  planks  with  screws,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  4.  The  location  of  these  must 
be  determined  by  the  builder. 

Some  calking  may  be  required  be- 
tween the  bottom,  or  floor,  boards,  if 
they  are  not  nailed  tightly  against  one 
another.  The  calking  material  may  be 
loosely  woven  cotton  cord,  which  is 
well  forced  into  the  seams.  The  first 
coat  of  paint  should  be  of  red  lead 
mixed  with  raw  linseed  oil,  and  when 
dry  any  color  may  be  applied  for  the 
second  coat. 

While,  for  use  in  shallow  water, 
these  boats  are  not  built  with  a  keel, 
one  can  be  attached  to  prevent  the 
boat  from  "sliding  off"  in  a  side  wind 
or  when  turning  around.  When  one 
is  attached,  it  should  be  %  i"-  thick, 
3  in.  wide,  and  about  8  ft.  long. — Con- 
tributed by  B.  Francis  Dashiell,  Bal- 
timore, Md. 


Double-Swing  Gate  with  Common 
Hinge 

Ordinary  hinges  can  be  easily  bent 
and  so  placed  on  posts  that  a  gate  can 
be    swung    in    either    direction.      As 


The  Post  and  Gate  are  Cut  Away  Back  of  the  Hinge 
to  Allow  the  Latter  to  Swing  Back 

shown  in  the  illustration,  hinges  can 
be  made  to  fit  either  round  or  square 
posts.  The  gate  half  of  the  hinge  is 
fastened  in  the  usual  way.  The  post 
half  is  bent  and  so  placed  that  the 
hinge  pin  will  approximately  be  on  a 
line  between  the  centers  of  the  posts. 
The  gate  and  post  should  be  beveled 
off  to  permit  a  full-open  gateway. — 
Contributed  by  R.  R.  Schmitz,  Birm- 
ingham, Ala. 


CAn  aniline  color  soluble  in  alcohol, 
by  adding  a  little  carbolic  acid,  will 
hold  fast  on  celluloid. 


Testing  Out  Induction   Coils 

While  winding  an  induction  coil,  I 
found  it  necessary  to  test  the  sections 
for  continuity.  Having  no  galvanom- 
eter, I  connected  a  battery  and  low- 
resistance  telephone  receiver  in  series 
with  the  section  and  battery.  The  bat- 
tery and  telephone  receiver  may  also 
be  used  for  testing  out  the  secondary 
of  an  induction  coil,  to  determine  if  it 
is  burnt  out. — Contributed  by  John  M. 
Wells,  Moosomin,  Can. 


30 


How   to   Make   a 

By  BENNETT 

A  boy  who  likes  to  do  the  things 
that  "grown  ups"  do  can  derive  con- 
siderable pleasure  from  the  making  of 
a  transit,  which  will  enable  him  to 
start  in  surveying  railroads,  laying  off 
town  sites,  and  doing  lots  of  kindred 
work.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  com- 
pass, and  one,  1%  in.  in  diameter,  can 
be  purchased  at  a  reasonable  price.  A 
hole   is   bored   with   an   expansive   bit 


Surveyor's   Transit 

BLACKLIDGE 

be  attached  to  the  screw  with  a  dou- 
ble loop,  as  shown  at  D,  so  that  the 
bob  will  hang  centrally.  Two  stand- 
ards are  made  as  shown  at  E,  each 
about  5  in.  high,  and  fastened  to  the 
ring  B  in  the  positions  shown  in  the 
drawing  of  the  complete  instrument. 
An  arc  of  a  circle  is  marked  on  one  of 
the  standards,  as  shown,  to  designate 
angles,    the    markings   being   laid    out 


Detail  of  Parts  for  the  Construction  of  a  Transit 
Which  can  be  Used,  with  Fairly  Accurate  Results, 
in  Doing  Amateur  Surveying  for  Railroad  Work, 
Town  Sites  and  the  Laying  Out  of  Maps 


into  a  board,  %  in-  in  thickness,  just 
deep  enough  to  admit  the  compass 
snugly,  then  a  circle.  A,  41/0  in.  in 
diameter,  is  drawn,  having  the  same 
center  as  the  compass  hole,  and  the 
disk  is  cut  out  with  a  compass  or  scroll 
saw.  A  ring,  B,  is  cut  in  the  same 
manner  from  the  same  material,  its 
inside  diameter  being  such  that  the 
ring  just  fits  around  the  disk  A,  and 
the  outside  diameter,  6%  in.  Another 
block,  5I/2  in-  in  diameter,  is  glued  to 
the  bottom  of  the  small  disk  A.  This 
will  appear  as  shown  at  C.  A  small 
hole  is  bored  in  the  center  of  the  bot- 
tom block  on  the  under  side  to  re- 
ceive the  threaded  end  of  the  screw 
on  a  camera  tripod.  By  careful  ad- 
justment the  threads  in  the  wood  will 
hold  the  transit  firmly.  A  plumb  bob 
must  be  attached  exactly  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  tripod  head.  This  can  be 
easily  done  if  the  head  is  wood,  but  in 
case  the  top  is  of  metal,  the  line  can 


with  a  bevel  protractor.  The  pointer  is 
a  hand  from  an  old  alarm  clock. 

The  telescope  arrangement  consists 
of  a  piece  of  pasteboard  tubing,  about 
114  in.  in  diameter,  one  end  being  cov- 
ered with  a  piece  of  black  paper  with 
a  pinhole  in  the  exact  center,  and  the 
other  equipped  with  "cross  hairs." 
Four  small  notches  are  cut  in  the  lat- 
ter end  of  the  tube,  exactly  quartering 
it,  and  two  silk  threads  as  fine  as  can 
be  obtained,  are  stretched  across  in 
these  notches.  The  tube  is  fastened 
to  a  block  of  wood,  5  in.  wide  and  7 
in.  long,  with  small  tacks  and  two 
pieces  of  fine  copper  wire.  This  block 
is  pinioned  between  the  standards  with 
two  nails.  The  hand  is  secured  to  the 
nail  in  such  a  position  that  it  will  point 
straight  down  when  the  tube  is  level. 

The  instrument  is  adjusted  in  the 
following  manner:  It  is  set  up  where 
a  lone  tree  can  be  seen,  about  one  mile 
distant,   and    the   center   of   the   cross 


21 


hairs  is  carefully  set  on  the  tree.  Then 
a  very  fine  wire  is  stretched  across  the 
compass,  as  shown  at  F,  and  while 
keeping  it  directly  over  the  center  of 
the  compass  it  is  also  placed  on  a  di- 
rect line  pointing  to  the  tree.  Very 
small  brass  nails,  driven  in  at  G  and 
H,  serve  to  fasten  it  in  the  position 
thus  found.  When  this  adjustment 
has  been  made  the  telescope  can  be 
turned  to  sight  any  object,  after  first 
placing  the  instrument  so  that  the 
needle  points  to  the  N  on  the  dial,  and 
a  glance  at  the  wire  will  show  the  exact 
direction  in  which  the  object  is  located. 

The  instrument  is  then  taken  to  a 
level  stretch  of  road  and  set  up,  and  a 
stick  is  placed  on  end  and  marked  at 
the  height  of  the  telescope.  The  stick 
is  taken  along  the  road  about  200  yd., 
the  telescope  sighted  on  it,  and  the 
hand  set.  This  makes  the  instrument 
level  enough  for  all  practical  purposes. 
The  plumb  bob  is  then  dropped,  a  dis- 
tance of  20  ft.  measured  from  it  on  the 
road,  and  a  mark  made.  The  tele- 
scope is  sighted  on  this  mark,  and  a 
mark  is  made  on  the  standard  at  the 
point  of  the  arc,  to  which  the  hand 
points.  Another  20  ft.  is  measured,  or 
40  ft.  from  the  bob,  and  another  mark 
made.  The  telescope  is  sighted  on 
it,  and  the  location  of  the  hand  again 
marked.  This  works  well  up  to  about 
300  ft.,  then  the  marks  begin  to  come 
very  close  together.  This  method  is 
used  for  laying  out  town  sites.  The 
instrument  is  set  up  directly  over  a 
stake  from  which  to  work,  and  the 
telescope  is  turned  down  until  the  20- 
ft.  mark  is  indicated,  when  the  opera- 
tor looks  through  the  telescope  and 
tells  his  helper  where  to  set  the  stake. 
Then  another  is  driven  at  the  next 
point,  and  so  on,  until  the  limit  of  the 
instrument  is  reached. 

When  doing  railroad  surveying  sev- 
eral start  out  together,  one  with  an  ax 
to  cut  away  brush  ;  one  to  carry  pegs ; 
two  to  measure,  or  chain,  the  distance 
between  stakes,  and  one  to  do  the 
sighting.  In  this  manner  a  line  can 
be  run  that  comes  very  near  being  per- 
fectly straight  for  three  miles. 

A  concrete  example  of  how  the  tran- 


sit was  used  to  lay  out  a  map  of  a 
ranch  will  now  be  given.  The  start 
was  made  on  an  east  and  west  fence. 
The  instrument  was  set  5  ft.  from  the 
fence  at  one  point,  and  at  the  other 
end  of  the  fence  the  stick  was  set  at  a 
point  5  ft.  from  the  fence.  When  the 
stick  was  sighted,  the  wire  cut  the  E 
and  W  on  the  compass,  thus  showing 
that  the  fence  was  set  on  a  line,  due 
east  and  west.  The  distance  was 
measured  from  the  fence  to  the  house, 
which  was  Vi  mile,  and  this  was  noted 
in  a  book.  This  operation  was  re- 
peated on  the  rear,  and  the  distance 
found  to  be  780  ft.  while  the  compass 
showed  the  direction  to  be  4  deg. 
west  of  south.  The  next  line  ran  427 
ft.  and  1  deg.  east  of  south.  This 
was  kept  up  all  the  way  around.  After 
these  notes  had  been  obtained,  it  was 
an  easy  matter  to  take  a  piece  of  plain 
paper  and  strike  a  line  representing 
north  and  south  and  lay  off  the  direc- 
tions. A  bevel  protractor  was  used  to 
find  the  degrees.  The  transit  was  set 
on  the  posts  of  the  corrals  and  this 
saved  the  measuring  out  from  the  in- 
closure.  The  creek  was  surveyed  in 
the  same  manner.  So  many  feet  south- 
west, so  many  feet  west,  so  many  feet 
5  deg.  south  of  west,  and  so  on,  until 
its  length  was  run. 

The  transit  can  also  be  used  for  find- 
ing distances  without  measuring.  A 
line  from  A  to  B  is  sighted,  and  F 
represents  a  point  14  mile  distant,  the 
line  from  F  to  G  being  100  ft.  A  line 
is  now  sighted  from  A,  through  G  to  C. 
A  person  standing  at  D  is  directed  to 
move  toward  the  point  E  and  he  is 
stopped  as  soon  as  sighted  in  the  tele- 
scope. He  then  measures  the  distance 
from  D  to  E.  Suppose  this  distance  is 
2.")0  ft.  As  each  100  ft.  means  lA  mile, 
and  the  .50  ft.,  I/4  mile,  the  point  E  is  IV4 
miles  from  the  transit.  This  method 
can  be  used  quite  extensively  and  dis- 
tances obtained  are  fairly  accurate. 


CA  small  whisk  broom  makes  a  handy 
cleaner  to  brush  the  caked  grease  and 
lint  from  pulleys  and  gear  wheels 
where  waste  and  rags  are  useless. 


To  Enlarge  or  Reduce  Plots 

Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  enlarge 
or  reduce  a  plot  to  a  different  scale. 
This  can  be  easily  and  quickly  accom- 


Enlarging  and  Reducing  Plots  by  Radial  Lines  from 
a  Common  Point  Located  Properly 

plished  without  resorting  to  the  slow 
process  of  protracting  the  angles  and 
scaling  the  individual  lines. 

Take  any  point,  P,  and  from  it  draw 
light  pencil  lines  through  each  of  the 
corners  of  the  plot.  On  any  one  of 
these  lines,  as  AP,  lay  off  with  dividers 
AC  equal  to  CP.  Place  a  triangle  on 
the  line  AB  and  with  a  straightedge, 
or  another  triangle,  laid  on  the  line 
AP,  slide  the  former  to  the  point  C, 
then  draw  line  CD  parallel  with  AB 
until  it  intersects  the  radial  line  PB. 
In  the  same  manner  draw  line  DE 
parallel  with  BF,  and  so  on,  all  about 
the  plot.  A  test  of  accuracy  will  be 
in  striking  the  point  C  with  the  last 
line.  If  the  original  plot  has  a  scale 
of  40  ft.  to  the  inch  the  reduced  plot 
would  be  80  ft.  to  the  inch.  If  it  is 
required  to  enlarge  the  plot  to  20  ft. 
to  the  inch,  make  AG  equal  to  AP,  and 
proceed  as  in  the  first  case,  using  G 
as  the  starting  point. 

The    location    of    the    point    P    is 


arbitrary  and  may  be  outside  of  the 
boundary  of  the  plot  or  figure  to  be 
enlarged  or  reduced,  but  should  be  so 
located,  if  possible,  that  the  radial  line 
to  any  corner  does  not  parallel  either 
of  the  plot  lines  to  that  corner.  If  the 
point  cannot  be  so  located  for  all  the 
lines,  it  may  be  necessary  to  scale  the 
lines.  A  little  practice  in  picking  out 
the  best  location  for  the  point  will  give 
gratifying  results.  —  Contributed  by 
Junius  D.  McCabe,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 


A   Lathe   Bench 

While  working  at  a  bench,  or  foot- 
power  lathe,  it  is  quite  convenient  to 
have  some  sort  of  a  seat  to  sit  on  while 
at  work,  or  between  operations.  In 
making  such  a  seat,  I  used  a  board,  27 
in.  long  and  13  in.  wide,  for  the  top, 
and  two  boards,  19  in.  long  and  12  in. 
wide,  for  the  supports.  These  boards 
were  '%  in.  thick.  The  supports  were 
squared  at  the  ends  and  securely  fas- 
tened to  the  top  with  nails,  their  posi- 
tions being  3  in.  in  from  the  ends  of 
the  top  board.  These  were  well 
braced,  as  shown,  and  a   cross  board 


C; 


1 


iO 


TOP 


The  Bench  Provides  a  Seat  (or  the  Worker  in  Doing 
Operations  on  a  Small  Foot  Lathe 

was    placed    between    them,    near    the 
lower  ends. 

The  projecting  ends  of  the  top  were 
cut  out,  and  a  box,  5  in.  deep,  con- 
structed    against     the     supports.       A 


23 


covering  was  made  to  fit  in  each  of  the 
openings  in  the  top  board  and  hinged 
to  the  outer  edge  of  the  box.  The 
boxes  made  a  convenient  place  for  the 
tools  used  in  the  turning  work. — Con- 
tributed by  Harold  R.  Harvey,  Buhl, 
Idaho. 


means  of  molding  strips.  The  sliding 
support  for  the  cabinet  consists  of  a 
2-in.  square  piece  secured  to  the  bot- 


Cleaning  and  Polishing  Shoes 

In  using  the  polishes  now  on  the 
market  for  tan  shoes,  I  found  that  the 
leather  cracked  in  an  unreasonably 
short  time.  The  following  was  sug- 
gested and  tried  out  with  good  results. 
Wash  the  shoes  with  castile  soap  and 
water  by  applying  the  mixture  with  a 
dauber.  Work  up  a  little  lather  and 
then  rub  dry  with  a  cloth,  without 
rinsing.  The  leather  will  be  cleaned 
without  becoming  dark,  and  it  will  not 
crack.  A  higher  polish  may  be  ob- 
tained by  using  some  paste  polish  in 
the  usual  manner.  —  Contributed  by 
George  Bliss,  Washington,  D.  C. 


Shaving   Cabinet   Mounted   on  an 
Adjustable   Pedestal 

The  illustration  represents  a  shaving 
cabinet  mounted  on  an  adjustable  ped- 
estal, whose  style  and  size  are  such 
that  it  may  easily  be  moved  about  or 
set  away  without  requiring  much 
room.  The  material  required  for  its 
construction  is  as  follows : 

1  framed   mirror,   8  by   10   in, 

1  square-head   bolt    and    wing   nut,    ^2    by  4   in. 

2  cabinet    sides,    J^    by    7    by    15    in. 

2  partitions   and    shelf,    J/S    by    6   by   6   in. 
1  cabinet   top,    H    by   7   by   10J<^    in. 

1  cabinet   bottom,    Yi    by  6  by   10}4    in. 

2  cabinet  backs  and  doors,  ^  by  6^  by  lOJ/j  in. 
4  cabinet   moldings,    1   by  4   by   4   in. 

1  cabinet    support,    2    by    2    by    26    in. 
4  pedestal   moldings,    1   by   1   by   6   in. 
4  pedestal    frames,    1   by   3  by   36   in. 
1  base,   2   by   12  by   12   in. 
Screws,  nails,   and  varnish. 

The  sidepieces  of  the  cabinet  are  ex- 
tended at  one  corner,  thereby  forming 
the  supports  for  the  mirror.  The  door 
fits  in  between  the  sides  and  may  be 
attached  either  by  hinges  or  two  wood 
screws,  one  on  each  side,  holes  being 
bored  in  the  sides  forming  a  loose  fit 
for  the  screw  so  they  can  freely  turn 
with  the  door.  The  pedestal  consists 
of  a  4-in.  square  box  resting  on  the 
base   block,   and   secured   in   place   by 


The  Mirror  and  Cabinet  are  Mounted  on   a   Pedestal 
That  can  be  Moved  as  Desired 

tom  of  the  cabinet  by  means  of  mold- 
ing, and  provided  with  a  slot  so  the 
support  can  freely  slide  over  the  clamp 
bolt,  which  fastens  it  in  place  by 
clamping  it  against  the  pedestal.  If 
it  is  desired  to  conceal  the  head  of  the 
bolt,  a  recess  should  be  made  in  the 
pedestal  frame  for  it,  as  shown,  so  the 
support  will  freely  slide  over  it.  Be- 
fore assembling  the  pedestal  it  will  be 
necessary  to  drill  a  hole  in  the  front 
side  in  line  with  the  recess  of  the  back 
side,  and  insert  the  bolt.  If  this  pre- 
caution is  not  taken,  it  will  not  be 
possible  to  insert  the  bolt,  unless  a 
hole  be  made  for  the  head  either 
through  the  back  side  or  front  side. — 
Contributed  by  D.  Toppan,  Water- 
vliet,  N.  Y. 


24 


Coasting  Is  One  of 
the  Best  Sports  a  Boy 
Enjoys  during  Winter,  and  ^^ 

a    Sled    of    Luxury    Is    Some- 
thing   to  Be    Proud    of  among 
Others  on  a  Hill  or  Toboggan  Slide 


By  R.  H.  ALLEN 

OASTER  bobs  usually   have   about   the    same   form 

of  construction,  and  only   slight  changes  from   the 

ordinary  are  made  to  satisfy  the  builder.     The  one  shown  has 

some  distinctive  features  which  make  it  a  sled  of  luxury,  and  the 

builder  will  pride  himself  in  the  making.    A  list  of  the  materials 

required   is   given   on   the  opposite  page.    Any 

wood  may  be  used  for  the  sled,  except  for  the 

runners,  which  should  be  made  of  ash. 

Shape  the  runners  all  alike  by  cutting  one  out 
and  using  it  as  a  pattern  to  make  the  others. 
After   cutting   them    to    the    proper   shape,   a 
groove  is  formed  on  the  under  edge  to  admit 
the  curve  of  a  %-in.  round  iron  rod  about 
\'\    in.    deep.     The    iron    rods    are   then 
shaped    to    fit   over   the    runner   in    the 
groove  and  extend  up  the  back  part  of 
the    runner   and   over   the   top   at   the 
front  end.     The  extensions  should  be 
flattened  so  that  two  holes  can  be 
drilled    in    them    for    two    wood 
screws  at  each  end.    If  the  builder 
does     not     have     the     necessary 
equipment    for    flattening    these 
ends,  a  local  blacksmith  can  do 
it  at  a  nominal  price.    After  the 
irons  are   fitted,   they  are  fas- 
tened in  place. 

The  top  edges  of  the  run- 
ners   are    notched    for    the 
rosspieces  so  that  the  top 
faces  of  these  pieces 
11    come    flush    with 
the  upper  edges  of  the 
runners.     The   loca- 
tion    of     these 
pieces    is    not   es- 
sential, but  should 
be  near  the  ends 
of    the    runners, 
and  the  notches  of 
each  pair  of  run- 
ners should  coin- 


25 


cide.  When  the  notches  are  cut,  fit  in 
the  pieces  snugly,  and  fasten  them  with 
long,  sHm  wood  screws.     Small  metal 


The  supporting  crosspiece  on  the 
front  sled  is  fastened  on  top  of  the 
runners,   at   a   place   where   its   center 


BRACE- 


Details  Showing  the 
Method  of    Rear- 
Sled  Oscillation, 
the  Bracing,   and 

the  Steering   Wheel 


braces  are  then  fastened  to  the  runners 
and  crosspiece  on  the  inside,  to  stiiTen 
the  joint. 

As  the  rear  sled  must  oscillate  some, 
means  must  be  provided  for  this  tilt- 
ing motion  while  at  the  same  time  pre- 
venting sidewise  turning.  The  con- 
struction used  for  this  purpose  is  a 
hinged  joint.  The  heavy  2  by  5-in. 
crosspiece  is  cut  sloping  on  the  width 
so  that  it  remains  2  in.  thick  at  one 
edge  and  tapers  down  to  a  feather  edge 
at  the  opposite  side.  This  makes  a 
wedge-shaped  piece,  to  which  surface 
the  three  large  hinges  are  attached. 
The  piece  is  then  solidly  fastened  to 
the  upper  edges  of  the  runners  that 
are  to  be  used  for  the  rear  sled,  and  so 
located  that  the  center  of  the  piece  will 
be  8  in.  from  the  front  end  of  the 
runners. 


will  be  11  in.  from  the  front  end  of  the 
runners. 

The  top  board  is  prepared  by  making 
both  ends  rounding  and  planing  the 
surfaces  smooth.  On  the  under  side, 
the  two  crosspieces  are  placed,  which 
should  have  two  Vo-in.  holes  bored 
through  the  width  of  each,  near  the 
ends,  to  receive  the  eyebolts.  They  are 
placed,  one  with  its  center  12  in.  from 
the  end  to  be  used  for  the  rear,  and  the 
other  with  its  center  8  in.  from  the 
front  end,  and  securely  fastened  with 
screws.  The  shore  is  placed  in  the 
center  of  the  board,  and  wires  are  run 
over  it  connecting  the  eyebolts.  The 
eyebolts  are  then  drawn  up  tightly  to 
make  the  wire  taut  over  the  shore. 
This  will  prevent  the  long  board  from 
sagging. 

On  the  upper  side  of  the  board  and 


LIST  OF  MATERIALS 


1  top.  6V^  ft.  Ions.  16  In.  wide,  and  1%  in  thick. 
4  runners.  22  in.  loot:.  4  in.  wide,  and  I  in.  thick. 
4  crosspieces.  16  in.  lon^'.  Sin.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick. 
3  pieces.  16  in.  long.  5  in.  wide,  and  2  in.  thick. 
1  piece.  16  in.  lont,'.  .S  in.  wide,  and  1  in,  thick. 
1  shore,   16  in.  lorn,'.  3   in.    wide,    and    1    in.  thick. 


4  seat  backs.  12  in.  lontr.  16  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick. 

1  dowel.  3  ft.  loni,'.  and  1  in.  in  diameter. 

4  rods,    %  in.  in  diameter,  and  30  in,  lone. 

4  eyebolts.   ^   in,  by  6  io,  long, 

3  hinces,  5-in.  strap, 

8  hintres,  3  in.  strap. 


26 


beginning  at  the  rear  end,  the  backs 
are  fastened  at  intervals  of  18  in.  They 
are  first  prepared  by  rounding  the  cor- 


keg  hoop.  A  piece  of  wood  is  fas- 
tened across  its  diameter,  and  the  hoop 
is  covered  with  a  piece  of  garden  hose 


The  Top  Board  is  Well   Braced  on  the  Under  Side  and  Fitted  with   Four   Backs   on  Top  to  Make  It  a 
Luxurious  Riding  Sled,  and  the  Runners  are  Provided  with  Metal  Shoes  for  Speed 


ners  on  the  ends  used  for  the  tops,  and 
the  opposite  ends  are  cut  sHghtly  on 
an  angle  to  give  the  back  a  slant. 
They  are  then  fastened  with  the  small 
hinges  to  the  top  board.  On  the  edges 
of  the  top  board,  1-in.  holes  are  bored 
about  1  in.  deep,  and  pins  driven  for 
foot  rests.  These  are  located  18  in. 
apart,  beginning  about  5  in.  from  the 
front  end.  The  dowel  is  used  for  the 
pins,  which  are  made  4  in.  long. 

The  steering  device  consists  of  a 
broom  handle,  cut  to  18  in.  in  length, 
with  one  end  fastened  in  a  hole  bored 
centrally  in  the  5-in.  crosspiece  of  the 
front  sled.  A  hole  is  bored  in  the  top 
board  through  the  center  of  the  cross- 
piece  fastened  to  the  under  side  for 
the  steering  post.  The  broomstick  is 
run  through  this  hole  after  first  plac- 
ing two  metal  washers  on  it.  After 
running  the  stick  through,  a  hardwood 
collar  is  fastened  to  it  just  above  the 
top  board,  so  that  the  top  cannot  be 
raised  away  from  the  sled.  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  broomstick  a  steering 
wheel  is  attached,  made  from  a  nail- 


and  wrapped  with  twine.  In  the  center 
of  the  crosspiece,  a  hole  is  bored  to 
snugly  fit  on  the  broom  handle,  which 
is  then  fastened  with  screws. 

The  rear  sled  is  fastened  to  the  top 
board  with  screws  through  the  extend- 
ing wings  of  the  hinges  and  into  the 
crosspiece.  Holes  are  bored  in  the 
front  ends  of  all  runners,  and  a  chain 
or  rope  is  attached  in  them,  the  loop 
end  of  the  rear  one  being  attached  to 
the  under  side  of  the  top  board,  and  the 
one  in  the  front  used  for  drawing  the 
sled. 


To  Prevent  Drill  from  Catching  As  It 
Passes  through  Metal 

The  regular  slope  of  a  drill  will 
cause  the  cutting  edge  to  catch  as  it 
breaks  through  the  metal  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  piece  being  drilled. 
Rut  if  a  twist  drill  is  ground  more  flat 
like  a  flat  drill,  it  will  not  "grab"  into 
the  metal  as  it  passes  through. — Con- 
tributed by  James  H.  Beebee,  Roch- 
ester, N.  Y. 


An   Ice   Boat   and   Catamaran 


By  ROBERT  K.  PATTERSON 


*  I  'HIS  combination   is  produced  by 
-■■     using  the  regular  type  of  ice  boat 
and  substituting  boats  for  the  runners, 
to  make  the  catamaran. 

In  constructing  the  ice  boat,  use  two 
poles,  or  timbers,  one  16  ft.  and  the 
other  lOi/o  ft.  long,  crossed  at  a  point 
21/2  ft.  from 
one  end  of  the 
longer  timber. 
The  crossed 
pieces  are 
firmly  braced 
with  wires,  as 
shown. 

The  mast, 
which  should 
be  about  12  ft. 
long,  is  set 
into  a  mortise 
cut  in  the  long 
timber,  15  in. 
from  the  front 
end,  and  is 
further  stabil- 
ized by  wires, 
as  shown.  A 
jib  boom, 
about  6  ft. 
long,  as  well 
as  a  main 
boom,  which 
is  111/2  ft. 
long,  are  hung 
on  the  mast 
in  the  usual 
manner. 

The  front 
runners   c  o  n- 


18  in.  long,  6  in.  wide,  and  2 


thick, 


allowing   the  ground   edge   to  project 
about  1  inch. 

When  the  ice-boat  frame  is  made  of 
poles,   the    runners   are   attached   to   a 


piece  of  wood,  13 
shown    and    fastened 


The  Ice  Boat  Provides  an  Ideal  Outing  in  Winter  Where  There 
Is  a  Body  of  Water  Large  Enough  for  Sailing 


long,  shaped  as 
at  right  angles 
with  bolts 
running 
through  the 
shouldered 
part  diagonal- 
ly. This  makes 
a  surface  on 
which  the 
pole  end  rests 
and  where  it 
is  securely 
fastened  with 
bolts.  If 
squared  t  i  m- 
bers  are  used, 
the  runners 
can  be  f  a  s- 
tened  directly 
to  them.  The 
rear,  or  guid- 
ing, runner  is 
fastened  b  e- 
t  w  ee  n  two 
pieces  of 
wood,  so  that 
i  t  s  edge. pro- 
jects ;  then  it 
is  clamped  in 
a  bicycle  fork, 
which  should 
be  cut  down 
so  that  about 


sist  of  band-iron  strips,  18  in.  long,  3 
in.  wide,  and  Vt;  in.  thick,  with  one  edge 
ground  like  the  edge  of  a  skate,  and 
the  ends  rounding,  which  are  fastened 
with  bolts  to  the  sides  of  wood  pieces, 


3  in. of  the  forks  remain.  A  hole  is  bored 
through  the  rear  end  of  the  long  pole  to 
receive  the  fork  head,  the  upper  end  of 
which  is  supplied  with  a  lever.  The 
lever  is  attached  to   the   fork   head   by 


27 


28 


=P5pT 


-            16- 

-1 

j    kl   H 

.?il_d.J>- 

0 

V.        V                "l 

29 


boring  a  hole  through  the  lever  end  at 
a  slight  angle  to  fit  the  head,  allowing 
sufficient  end  to  be  slotted,  whereupon 
a  hole  is  bored  through  the  width  of  the 
handle,  and  a  bolt  inserted,  to  act  as  a 
clamp. 

A  board  is  fastened  on  two  cross- 
jiieces  mortised  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  pole,  for  a  place  to  sit  on  when 
driving  the  boat.  The  sail  can  be  con- 
structed of  any  good  material  to  the 
dimensions  given. 

To  rig  up  the  ice  boat  for  use  as  a 
catamaran,  place  a  pole  across  the 
stern,  the  length  of  the  pole  being 
equal  to  the  one  used  on  the  front  part 
of  the  ice  boat.  Two  water-tight  boats 
are  constructed,  l(i  ft.  long,  13  in.  wide, 
and  10  in.  deep  at  the  center.  To  make 
these  two  boats  procure  six  boards,  16 
ft.  long,  10  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick. 
Three  boards  are  used  to  make  each 
boat.  Bend  one  board  so  that  it  will 
be  in  an  arc  of  a  circle,  then  nail  on 
the  two  side  boards,  after  which  the 
edges  of  the  sides  are  cut  away  to  the 
shape  of  the  bent  board.  The  runners 
are  removed  from  the  ice  boat,  and  the 
boats  fastened  to  the  pole  ends.  A 
rudder  is  attached  in  the  place  of  the 
rear,  or  guiding,  runner.  The  tops  of 
the  boats,  or  floats,  can  be  covered  and 
made  water-tight. 


Mind-Reading  Effect  with  Cards 

Five  cards  are  shown,  and  some  one 
person  is  asked  to  think  of  two  cards 
in  the  lot,  after  which  the  performer 
places  the  cards  behind  his  back  and 
removes  any  two  cards,  then  shows 
the  remaining  three  and  asks  if  the 
two  cards  in  mind  have  been  removed. 
The  answer  is  always  yes,  as  it  cannot 
be  otherwise. 

To  prepare  the  cards,  take  any  10 
cards  from  the  pack  and  paste  the  back 
of  one  card  to  another,  making  five 
double  cards.  Removing  any  two  cards 
behind  the  performer's  back  reduces 
the  number  of  cards  to  three,  and  when 
these  are  turned  over  they  will  not 
have  the  same  faces  so  that  the  ones 
first  seen  cannot  be  shown  the  second 
time  even  though  all  five  cards  were 
turned  over  and  shown. 


An  Air  Pencil  to  Make  Embossed 
Letters 

The  device  illustrated  is  for  making 
embossed  letters  on  show  cards,  signs, 
post  cards,  etc.    A  small  bulb,  such  as 


The  Oilcan  Spout  Is  the  Reservoir  to  Hold  the  Paint, 
and   the  Bulb  Produces  the  Air  Pressure 

used  on  cameras,  is  procured,  also  the 
spout  from  a  small  oilcan.  The  bulb 
is  fastened  to  the  spout  as  shown. 

The  material  for  use  in  the  pencil  is 
quick-drying  mucilage  thickened  with 
flake  white.  If  some  special  color  is 
desired,  tint  the  mixture  with  aniline. 
Fill  the  spout  with  the  mixture  and 
attach  the  bulb.  Squeeze  the  bulb 
gently  while  forming  the  letters,  then 
dust  over  with  bronze,  and  allow 
to  drv. 


An  Endless  Dish  or  Floor  Mop 

A  good  way  to  use  up  cord  that  col- 
lects about  the  house,  is  to  make  an 
endless  dish  or  floor  mop  of  it.  Pro- 
cure a  thin  board  that  will  make  a  good 
length  and  wind  the  cord  around  it, 
then  remove  it  from  the  board  and  tie 
the  bunch  together  in  the  center. 


30 


Combination  Tie  Rack  and  Collar  Holder 


An  unusual  though  simple  tie  rack 
can  be  made  by  supporting  the  tie  bar 
in  the  center.  By  this  arrangement  the 
ties  can  be  placed  on  it  from  either  end, 


thus  avoiding  the  tedious  threading 
througli,  required  on  the  ordinary  rack 
sui)])orted  at  each  end.  Collars  may  be 
hung  on  a  peg  placed  above  the  tie  bar. 


with  Open-End  Hang- 
ers So  That  the  Arti- 
cles can  be  Slipped  On 
Easily  without  being 
Passed  behind  a  Bar 
as  Is  Usually  the  Case 


The   pieces   can   be   glued   together 
and  a  good  finish  given  in  the  usual 
way.     The  rack  can  be  hung  up  by 
two   screw  eyes.     The  material  re- 
quired consists  of  four  pieces,  dimen- 
sioned %  by  5  by  8  in.,  %  by  %  by 
71A  in.,  %  by  %  by  3i/s  in.,  and  %  by  % 
)y  2  in.  respectively. — Contributed  by 
Arthur  C.  Vener,  Dallas,  Texas. 


Skates  Made  of  Wood 

Skates  that  will  take  the  place  of 
the  usual  steel-runner  kind  and  which 
will  prevent  spraining  of  the  ankles, 
can  be  made  of  a  few  pieces  of  VL'-in. 
hardwood  boards. 

Four  runners  are  cut  out,  2  in.  wide 
at  the  back  and  1%  in.  wide  at  the 
front,  the  length  to  be  2  in.  longer 
than  the  shoe.  The  top  edges  of  a 
pair  of  runners  are  then  nailed  to  the 
under  side  of  a  board  4  in.  wide,  at  its 
edges. 

A  piece  of  board,  or  block,  2  in.  wide 
is  fastened  between  the  runners  at  the 
rear,  and  one  1  in.  wide,  in  front.  Two 
bolts  are  run  through  holes  bored  in 
the  runners,  one  just  back  of  the  front 
board,  or  block,  and  the  other  in  front 
of  the  rear  one. 

Four  triangular  pieces  are  fastened, 
one  on  each  corner,  so  that  the  heel 
and  toe  of  the  shoe  will  fit  between 
them,  and,  if  desired,  a  crosspiece  can 


be  nailed  in  front  of  the  heel.     Straps 
are  attached  to  the  sides  for  attaching 


Skates  Made  of 

Wood  to  Take  the 

Place  of  the  Steel- Runner 

Kind  and  Prevent  Sprained  Ankles 

the  .skate  to  the  shoe.  Both  skates 
are  luade  alike. — Contributed  by  F.  E. 
Kennar,  Hennessey,  Okla. 


CThe  best  paint  for  paper  roofing  is 
asphaltum  varnish. 


An  Ice  Glider 

By  MILDRED  E.  THOMAS 


THE  enthusiastic  pushmobilist  need 
not  put  aside  his  hobby  during  the 
winter,  as  an  amusement  de- 
vice for  use  on  ice,  which  will 
surpass  the  very  best  pushmo- 
bile,  can  be  easily  made  as 
shown  in  the  illustration. 

Similar  to  an  ice  yacht,  only 
a   great    deal    smaller,    the    ice 
glider  will  require  three  ordi- 
nary   skates,    two   of   which 
are  fastened  to  the  ends  of 
the    front    crosspiece,    so 
that    their    blades    will 
stand    at   an    angle    of 
about    30    deg.    with 
their  edges  outward. 
To  get  this   angle 
tapering  block 
are    fastened 
to  the  cross- 
piece  ends, 
as    s  h  o  w  n. 
The    skates 
are  then  fas- 
t  e  n  e  d     to 
these  blocks. 

The  cross- 
piece  is  30  in.  long  and  about  8  in 
wide.  In  the  cen- 
ter of  this  piece 
an  ujjright  is  con- 
structed, 36  in. 
high.  The  edges 
of  the  front  cross- 
piece  are  cut  on  a 
slant  so  that  a 
piece  nailed  to  its 
front  and  back 
edge  will  stand 
sloping  toward 
the  rear.  A  han- 
dle, 31  in.  long,  is 
fastened    between 


Detail  of  the   Parts 

for  the  Construction 

of    the    Ice    Glider, 

or    Pushmobile 


the   two    uprights   at   the   upper   end. 
The    rear    part    is    made    of    a    board, 
8  in.  wide  and  40  in.  long.   The 
remaining  skate  is  fastened  in 
a  perfectly  straight  position  on 
the  rear  end.   The  skates  may 
be  attached  with  screws  run 
through    holes    drilled    in 
the   top   plates,   or   with 
straps.  The  front  end 
of  the  rear  board  has 
a  hole  for  a  bolt  to  at- 
tach  it   to   the   center 
of    the     front     cross- 
piece,    so 
that  the  lat- 
ter will  turn 
to  guide  the 
glider. 

A     pusher 

i  s     prepared 

from  a  block 

of  wood,  into 

which     nails 

are      driven 

with    their 

ends  project- 

i  n  g  on  the 

The  block  is  strapped  to 

one     shoe,     a  s 

shown. 

The  glider  is 
used  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  push- 
mobile. 

The  pusher  can 
be  made  in  an- 
other way  by  us- 
ing sole  leather 
instead  of  the 
block.  Small  slots 
are  cut  in  the  sides 
for  the  straps. 
Nails    are    driven 


The  Glider  is  Pushed   over   the   Ice 

Similarly  to  a    Pushmobile,   and  the 

Speed  That  can  be  Attained 

is   Much  Greater 


under  side. 


31 


32 


through  the  leather  so  that  the  points 
project.      Either    kind    of    pusher    is 


1^^ 


The  Block  of  Wood  with  Protecting  Nails  to  Fasten 
on  the  Shoe  That  Does  the  Pushing 

especially  adapted  for  the  pushmobile 
to  prevent  wear  on  the  shoe. 


Prony  Brake  for  Testing  Small  Motors 

The  ordinary  prony  brake  is  not,  as 
a  rule,  sensitive  enough  to  make  an 
accurate  test  on  small  motors,  such  as 
those  used  in  driving  sewing  machines, 
washing  machines,  vacuum  cleaners, 
etc.  The  arrangement  shown  in  the 
accompanying  sketch  has  been  used  for 
this  purpose  with  good  results  and 
was  very  accurate.  The  operation  of 
the  brake  is  exceedingly  simple. 

A  pulley  without  a  crown  face  is  at- 
tached to  the  shaft  of  the  motor,  which 


Prony  Brake  Used  in  Connection  with  a  Small 
Balance  to  Find  the  Horsepower 

is  fastened  to  the  top  of  a  table  or 
bench,  and  a  balance  mounted  directly 
over  the  pulley.  The  support  for  the 
balance  should  be  a  narrow  strip,  which 


in  turn  is  supported  on  two  upright 
pieces,  as  shown.  A  light  rope  is  put 
under  the  pulley,  and  the  ends  are 
looped  over  the  platforms  of  the  bal- 
ance so  that  it  does  not  interfere  with 
the  operation  of  the  balance.  The  ends 
of  the  rope  should  be  vertical  and  par- 
allel. The  piece  upon  which  the  balance 
rests  is  raised  by  inserting  wedges, 
thus  increasing  the  tension  in  the  rope. 
The  resulting  friction  of  the  rope  on 
the  pulley  increases  the  load. 

If  the  motor  is  running  in  the  direc- 
tion indicated  by  the  arrow  on  the  pul- 
ley, the  tension  in  the  left-hand  end 
of  the  rope  will  be  greater  than  in  the 
right-hand  end  and  a  weight  must  be 
placed  on  the  right-hand  platform  of 
the  balance.  When  the  weight  W  is 
adjusted  so  that  the  two  pointers  on 
the  platforms  are  exactly  opposite  each 
other,  the  value  of  the  weight  W,  in 
pounds,  will  represent  the  difference  in 
pull,  in  pounds,  between  A  and  B.  If 
the  value  of  the  weight  W  is  known 
and  also  the  speed  of  the  machine  when 
the  weight  was  determined,  the  horse- 
power output  can  be  computed  by 
means  of  the  following  equation  : 

_6.2832XLXWXR.P.M. 
P'^  33,000X12 

In  this  equation,  L  is  the  distance  in 
inches  from  the  center  of  the  pulley  to 
the  center  of  the  rope.  Two  ordinary 
spring  balances  may  be  substituted  for 
the  beam  balance  and  the  difference  in 
their  readings  taken  for  the  value  W. 
For  best  results,  the  tension  in  the 
slack  end  of  the  rope  should  be  as 
small  as  possible,  and  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  wrap  the  rope  one  or  more 
times  completely  around  the  pulley. 


A  Mystic  Fortune  Teller 

Fortune  telling  by  means  of  weights 
striking  glasses  or  bottles  is  quite 
mysterious  if  controlled  in  a  manner 
that  cannot  be  seen  by  the  audience. 
The  performer  can  arrange  two  strikes 
for  "no,"  and  three  for  "yes"  to  an- 
swer questions.  Any  kind  of  bottles, 
glass,  or  cups  may  be  used.     In  the 


33 


bottles  the  pendulum  can  be  suspended 
from  the  cork,  and  in  the  glasses  from 
small  tripods  set  on  the  table. 

The  secret  of  the  trick  is  as  follows : 
A  rubber  tube  with  a  bulb  attached  to 


Holding  Prints  in  a  Liquid-Filled  Tray 

After  having  considerable  trouble  in 
keeping  my  paper  prints  in  the  hypo 
fixing  bath  from  curling,  which  would 


BULB 


The   Rocking   of  the   Table   is   Caused   by   the   Pressure   of  Air   in   the   Bulb  under   the   Foot, 
the   Movement   Causing   the   Pendulum    to   Swing   and   Strike  the   Glass 


each  end  is  placed  under  a  rug,  one 
bulb  being  located  under  one  table  leg 
and  the  other  near  the  chair  of  the  per- 
former set  at  some  distance  from  the 
table  where  it  can  be  pressed  with  the 
foot.  Some  one  selects  a  pendulum ; 
the  performer  gazes  intently  at  it,  and 
presses  the  bulb  under  his  foot  lightly 
at  first ;  then,  by  watching  the  sway- 
ing of  the  pendulum  selected,  he  will 
know  when  to  give  the  second  impulse, 
and  continue  until  the  weight  strikes 
the  glass.  As  the  pendulums  are  of 
diiTerent  lengths  they  must  necessarily 
swing  at  different  rates  per  second. 
The  impulses  must  be  given  at  the 
proper  time  or  else  the  pendulum  will 
be  retarded  instead  of  increased  in 
amplitude.  A  table  with  four  legs  is 
best  to  use,  and  the  leg  diagonally  op- 
posite that  with  the  bulb  beneath  it 
must  not  touch  the  carpet  or  floor. 
This  can  be  arranged  by  placing  pieces 
of  cardboard  under  the  other  two  legs. 
— Contributed  by  James  J.  Mclntyre. 


force  the  edges  out  of  the  liquid,  I 
found  the  plan  here  illustrated  a  suc- 
cess. I  procured  a  piece  of  wood,  the 
size  of  a  postcard,  and  stuck  four 
glass  push  pins  into  one  surface,  one 
at  each  corner,  and  fastened  a  handle 
to  the  center  of  the  upper  side.  The 
papers  are  first  placed  in  the  bath,  then 


HYPO  TRAY 


PRINTS 

.PUSH  PIN 

Push  Pins  on  the  Under  Side  of  the  Board    Raise   It 
and  Provide  a  Space  for  the  Prints  in  the  Liquid 

the  board  is  set  over  them  with  the 
pins  down.  This  holds  the  prints 
under  the  liquid  but  does  not  press 
them  tightly  together. — Contributed 
by  J.  J.  Kolar,  May  wood,  111. 

CA  piece  of  an  old  gunny  sack  will 
polish  brass  work  very  nicely. 


34 


Cellar-Door  Holder 

A  cellar  door  that  opened  up  against 
a  wall  required  a  catch  of  some  kind  to 
keep  it  open  at  times.  As  I  did  not 
want  a  catch  to 


show  on  the 
wall,  I  devised  a 
holder  as  shown. 
Three  pieces  of 
wood  were 
nailed  to  the  un- 
der side  of  the 
door  in  such  po- 
sitions that  they 
formed  a  recess 
in  which  a  fourth 
piece,  2  in.  wide 
and  1  in.  thick, 
would  slide  end- 
ways. A  knob 
was  attached  to 
the  upper  end  of  the  slide,  which 
served  the  double  purpose  of  a  handle 
and  a  stop  for  the  slide.  The  manner 
of  using  the  holder  is  clearly  shown. — 
Contributed  by  H.  T.  Smith,  Topeka, 
Kansas. 


An  Emergency  Pencil  Compass 

The  need  of  a  compass  when  none 
was    at    hand    caused    me    to    quickly 
devise  a  substitute  for  the  work. 
A  piece  of  stiff  wire,  about  the 
length  of  the  pencil,  was  pro- 
cured, and  several  turns  were 
made   around   the   pencil,   as 
shown.    The  lower  straight 
end    was    filed   to   a   point. 
The  wire  can  be  bent  to 
obtain     the     radius     dis- 
tance.— Contributed    by 
Preston    Ware, 
Rome,  Ga. 


CA  very  effective 
dip  for  brass  and 
copper  articles, 
that  will  leave  a 
clean  and  bright 
finish,  is  2  qt.  of  aqua  fortis,  1  gal. 
of  sulphuric  acid,  1  pt.  of  water  and  a 
pinch  of  salt. 


Renewing  Carbon  Paper 

When  carbon  paper  has  been  used 
several  times,  the  preparation  becomes 
almost  worn  off  on  some  parts,  while 
other  parts  of  the  paper  are  as  good  as 
new.  The  process  of  renewing  is  very 
simple  and  it  can  be  done  by  anyone 
without  special  apparatus.  All  that  is 
necessary  is  to  hold  the  paper  in  front 
of  a  fire  or  over  a  radiator  a  few  sec- 
onds. The  heat  will  cause  the  prepara- 
tion to  dissolve  and  spread  over  the 
paper,  so  that  when  it  is  dry  the  paper 
will  have  a  new  coating.  This  can  be 
repeated,  and  in  some  cases  will  double 
the  life  of  the  carbon  paper. — Contrib- 
uted by  Chester  M.  Kearney,  Danville, 
Ouebec. 


How  to   Clinch  a   Finishing  Nail 

A  wire  or  finishing  nail  may  be 
clinched  as  nicely  as  a  wrought  nail, 
if  a  nail  punch 
or  piece  of  iron 
is  placed  along 
the  side  of  it, 
as  shown  at  A, 
and  the  nail 
hammered  into 
an  arched  form, 
as  at  B.  The  punch  or  rod  is  then 
withdrawn  and  the  arch  driven  into 
the  wood. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


To  Prevent  Washbasin  Bottom  from 
Wearing  Out 

The  ears  from  some  sirup  buckets 
were  removed  and  three  of  them  sol- 
dered, at  equal  distances  apart,  on  the 
bottom  of  the  washbasin  near  the  out- 
side edge  of  the  lower  part.  These 
prevented  the  wear  from  coming  on 
the  bottom  of  the  basin,  and  it  lasted 
several  times  as  long  as  ordinarily. — 
Contributed  by  A.  A.  Ashley,  Blanket, 
Texas. 


CTo  curl  feathers,  heat  slightly  before 
a  fire,  then  stroke  with  something  like 
the  back  of  a  case  knife. 


HO 


How  to  Make  ^ 
and  Use  Them    -: 

By  3fillman  Taylor 


',  JC* 


To  the  inventive  mind  of  the  North 
American  Indian  we  owe  the 
snowshoe,  and  its  conception  was 
douljtless  brought  about  through  that 
prohfic  source  of  invention — necessity. 
The  first  models  were  crude  we!)-footed 
afi'airs,  but  improvements  in  model 
and  manner  of  filling  the  frames  were 
gradually  added  until  the  perfected 
and  graceful  shoe  of  the  present  was 
finally  reached.  The  first  snowshoes 
were  made  by  the  Indians,  and  the 
Indians  of  Maine  and  Canada  continue 
to  fashion  the  finest  models  today. 

The  snowshoe  is  a  necessity  for  the 
sportsman  and  trapper  whose  pleasure 
or  business  leads  him  out  in  the  open 
during  the  winter  season,  when  roads 
and  trails  are  heavily  blanketed  by  a 
deep  fall  of  powdery  snow.  But  the 
use  of  the  web  shoe  is  by  no  means 
confined  to  the  dweller  in  the  wilder- 
ness, since  the  charm  of  wintry  wood 
and  plain  beckons  many  lovers  of  the 
outdoors  to  participate  in  this  invigor- 
ating sport,  and  snowshoe  tramps  are 
fast  growing  in  popularity  in  and 
about  our  cities  and  towns. 

All  the  modern  snowshoes  are  con- 
structed upon  practically  the  same 
general  lines,  although  the  types  of 
frames   dififer   considerably   in   size  as 


PART  I — Shapes  of  Snowshoes 


well  as  in  shape,  and  the  filling  of  hide 
is  often  woven  in  many  varied  and  in- 
tricate patterns.  The  frame  or  bow — 
usually  made  of  ash  in  order  to  get 
strength  with  light  weight — is  bent  in 
many  shapes,  but  the  one  shown  in  the 
diagram  is  a  typical  general-purpose 
shoe,  and  may  be  called  standard.  The 
frame  is  held  in  shape  by  means  of 
two  wooden  cross  braces,  neatly  mor- 
tised into  the  frame.  These  braces 
are  spaced  some  15  or  16  in.  apart,  and 
so  divide  the  shoe  into  three  sections, 
known  as  the  toe,  center,  and  heel. 
The  filling  is  woven  into  a  lanyard, 
which  is  a  light  strip  of  hide  firmly 
laced  to  the  frame  through  a  double 
row  of  holes  drilled  in  the  wood.  The 
center  filling  is  woven  of  heavy  strands 
of  rawhide,  in  a  fairly  coarse  mesh,  be- 
cause this  part  of  the  shoe  must  bear 
the  weight  of  the  body  and  the  brunt 
of  wear.  The  end  fillers  for  toe  and 
heel  are  wo\'en  of  lighter  strands  of 
hide,  and  the  mesh  is,  of  course, 
smaller. 

As  may  be  noted  by  referring  to  the 
drawing,  a  center  opening  or  "toe 
hole"  is  provided,  and  as  the  greater 
strain  on  the  filling  lies  directly  under 
the  ball  of  the  foot,  the  shoe  is  rein- 
forced at  this  point  by  the  "toe  cord" 
running  across,  and  the  "toe-cord 
stays,"  which  are  tied  in  on  each  side 
of  the  toe  hole — one  end  being  fastened 
to  the  toe  cord  and  the  other  lashed 
over  the  wooden  cross  bar  of  the 
frame.  These  reinforcing  cords  are 
formed  of  several  strands  of  hide,  the 


35 


36 


Stays  being  again  wound  with  finer 
strands. 

To  prevent  slipping  and  to  secure  a 
good  foothold  while  walking,  the  man- 
ner of  attaching  the  foot  to  the  shoe  is 
of  importance,  and  this  is  done  by 
making  use  of  a  toe  strap,  which  will 
alldw  the  toe  to  push  down  through 
the  toe  opening  as  the  heel  of  the  foot 
is  lifted  in  the  act  of  walking.  A  sec- 
ond strap,  or  thong,  leading  from  the 
top  around  the  foot,  above  the  curve  of 
the  heel,  is  needed  to  lend  additional 
support  in  lifting  the  snowshoe,  to  ef- 
fect the  easy  shambling  stride  char- 
acteristic of  the  snowshoer. 

There  are,  of  course,  a  great  number 
of  models  or  styles,  some  one  style 
being  popular  in  one  locality,  while  an 
altogether  different  style  is  preferred 
in  another  part  of  the  country.  The 
most  ^epresentati^•e  types  are  well 
shown  in  the  illustrations,  and  a  brief 
description  will  point  out  their  prac- 
tical advantages,  because  each  model 
possesses  certain  merits — one  model 
being  designed  for  fast  traveling  in 
the  open,  another  better  adapted  for 
brush  travel,  while  others  are  more 
convenient  for  use  in  a  hilly  country 
where  much  climbing  is  done,  and  so 
on. 

Style  A  is  regarded  by  snowshoe  ex- 
perts as  an  extreme  style,  for  it  is  long 
and  narrow.  It  is  designed  for  fast 
traveling  over  smooth  and  level  coun- 
try, and  over  loose,  powdery  snow. 
This  style  is  much  used  by  the  Cree 
Indians,  and  is  usually  made  13  in. 
wide  by  liO  in.  long,  with  a  deeply  up- 
curved  toe.  It  is  a  good  shoe  for 
cross-country  work,  but  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  manage  on  broken  trails, 
when  the  snow  is  packed,  and  also  af- 
fords rather  slippery  footing  when 
crossing  ice.  Owing  to  the  stout  con- 
struction of  the  frame  and  reinforce- 
ment needed  to  retain  the  high,  curved 
toe,  style  A  is  more  difficult  to  manage 
than  the  more  conservative  models, 
and  its  stiffness  of  frame  makes  it 
more  fatiguing  to  wear,  while  its  use 
is  a  decided  handicap  in  mountainous 
districts,  because  a  curved  toe  always 
makes  hill  climbing  more  difficult. 


Style  B  may  be  considered  the  or- 
dinary eastern  model,  and  a  common 
style  best  adapted  for  all-around  use. 
It  is  a  neat  and  gracefully  designed 
frame,  about  12  in.  wide  and  42  in. 
long,  and  is  usually  made  with  a 
slightly  upcurving  toe,  about  2  in.  turn 
at  the  toe  being  correct.  When  made 
l)y  the  Indians  of  Maine,  this  model  is 
fashioned  with  a  rather  heavy  heel, 
which  is  an  advantage  for  fast  walk- 
ing, while  it  increases  the  difficulty  in 
quick  turning. 

Style  C  is  a  favorite  model  among 
the  hunters  and  woodsmen  of  New 
England.  This  is  a  splendid  style  for 
general  purposes  in  this  section  of  the 
country,  since  the  full,  round  toe  keeps 
the  toe  up  near  the  surface,  and  lets 
the  heel  cut  down  more  than  the  nar- 
row-toe models.  Style  C  is  an  easy 
shoe  to  wear,  and  while  not  so  fast  as 
the  long,  narrow  frame,  its  full  shape 
is  more  convenient  for  use  in  the 
woods.  It  is  usually  made  with  about 
1  to  IVi;-!"-  turn  at  the  toe. 

Style  D  is  the  familiar  "bear's 
jiaw,"  a  model  originating  with  the 
northeastern  trapper.  This  model  is 
well  adapted  for  short  tramps  in  the 
brush,  and  having  a  flat  toe,  is  likewise 
a  good  shoe  for  mountain  climbing. 
For  tramping  about  in  thick  brush,  a 
short,  full  shoe  enables  one  to  take  a 
shorter  stride  and  turn  more  quickly, 
but  it  is  a  slow  shoe  for  straight-ahead 
traveling. 

When  purchasing  a  pair  of  snow- 
shoes,  some  few  important  considera- 
tions should  be  kept  in  mind,  and  the 
size  and  model  will  depend  upon  the 
man  to  some  extent,  since  a  large, 
heavy  man  will  require  a  larger  snow- 
shoe  than  would  suffice  for  a  person  of 
lighter  weight.  Height  also  enters 
into  the  choice,  and  while  a  small  per- 
son can  travel  faster  and  with  less 
fatigue  when  equipped  with  a  propor- 
tionately small  shoe,  a  tall  man  will 
naturally  pick  out  a  larger-sized  snow- 
shoe  for  his  use.  For  a  country  where 
deep  snows  prevail,  larger  sizes  are 
best,  but  in  localities  where  the  snow 
packs  solidly  and  there  is  considerable 
ice,     and     in     mountainous     districts. 


37 


LANYARD 


or  for  rough-country  traveling,  the 
smaller  sizes  will  give  more  satisfac- 
tion and  prove  more  durable  also.  For 
a  wet-snow  locality,  the  center  filling 
should  be  strung  in  rather  coarse  mesh, 
while  for  soft,  powdery  snow,  a  finer 
mesh  will  be  the  logical  choice. 

There  are  snowshoes  and  snow- 
shoes,  and  while  there  are  fine  models 
regularly  stocked  by  a  few  of  the  bet- 
ter sporting  -  goods 
firms,  there  is  likewise 
a  deal  of  poorly  made 
snowshoes  on  the  mar- 
ket. It  is  well  to  pay 
a  fair  price  and  se- 
cure a  dependable 
handmade  article,  for 
the  cheaper  snowshoes 
— often  filled  with 
seine  twine  and  t  h  e 
cheapest  hide  (com- 
monly known  in  the 
trade  as  "gut") — will 
warp  and  twist  in  the 
frame,  and  the  shoddy 
filling  will  soon  be- 
come loosened  up  and 
"bag"  after  a  little  use. 
The  best  snowshoes 
that  the  writer  is  ac- 
quainted with  are  made 
by  the  Indians,  and 
the  filling  is  ordinarily 
made  of  neat's  hide; 
cowhide  for  the  center 
filling,  and  calfskin  for 
the  toe  and  heel.  A 
first-class  pair  of  snow- 
shoes  may  be  had  for 
about  $6  to  $7.50,  and 
when  possible  to  do  so, 
it  is  best  to  have  them 
made  to  order.  This 
plan  is,  of  course, 
necessary  in  case  one  wishes  to  incor- 
porate any  little  wrinkles  of  his  own 
into  their  making,  or  desires  a  flatter 
toe,  lighter  heel,  or  a  dilTerent  mesh 
from  the  usual  stock  models. 

Where  but  one  pair  of  snowshoes  is 
purchased,  style  B  will  probably  prove 
the  best  selection,  and  should  be  or- 
dered with  the  flat  toe.  or  a  turn  not 
greater  than  1  in.     The  frame  may  be 


in  either  one  or  two  pieces,  depending 
upon  the  size  of  the  shoe  and  the  ideas 
of  the  Indian  maker,  but  it  is  well  to 
specify  white  ash  for  the  frames  in  the 
order.  No  Indian  maker  would  be 
guilty  of  using  screws  or  other 
metal  fastenings,  but  many  of  the 
cheap  and  poorly  fashioned  snowshoes 
are  fastened  at  the  heel  with  screws, 
thus    making    this    a    decidedly    weak 


FRAME  OR   BOW 


CR055    BAR 


TOE    5TAY5 


CENTER 
FILLING 


HEEL 

FILLIN 


FRAME 


FILLING 


TOE    HOLE 


TOE  CORD 


R055    BAR 


NYARD 


The  Frame  of  a  Snowshoe  in  Its  Usual  Construction.  Showing  the 

Crosspieces  with  Their  Laced   Fillings  of  Hide  and  the 

Different  Parts  Named,  for  a  Ready  Reference 


point,  since  the  wood  is  quite  certain 
to  split  after  a  little  rough  service. 
In  contrast  to  the  poor  workmanship 
of  these  low-priced  snowshoes,  the 
Indian-made  article  is  fashioned  from 
sound  and  properly  seasoned  wood ; 
the  cross  bars  are  snugly  fitted  by 
mortising  to  the  frame ;  the  filling  is 
tightly  woven,  and  the  heel  is  properly 
fastened    by    lacing    with    a    rawhide 


38 


* r    Sir     r  ■■      >  -> 


it  is  a  good  idea  to 
select  a  filling  of  good 
heavy  weight  and  with 
a  firmly  woven  and 
open  mesh,  say,  about 
%  in.  The  toe  and 
heel  sections  will,  of 
course,  be  of  finer-cut 
hide  and  smaller  mesh, 
and  it  is  wise  to  avoid 
those  shoes  employing 
seine  twine  for  the  end 
filling.  Some  factory- 
made  snowshoes  are 
given  a  coat  or  two  of 
\'arnis"h,  but  this,  while 
serving  to  make  them 
partly  waterproof, 
makes  them  rather 
slippery  when  crossing 
logs  and  ice.  Most 
woodsmen  prefer  to 
leave  both  frame  and 
filling  in  their  natural 
condition. 

The      Indian-made 
snowshoe      is      always 


thong.  However,  In- 
dian makers  are  likely 
to  make  the  toe  small 
and  leave  the  wood  to 
form  a  rather  heavy 
heel.  Some  few 
woodsmen  and  sports- 
men may  prefer  this 
model,  but  the  major- 
ity favor  a  fuller  toe 
and  a  lighter  heel  for 
general  use,  because 
the  regulation  Indian 
model,  cutting  down  at 
toe  and  heel  equally 
deep,  increases  the  dif- 
ficulty of  easy  travel- 
ing over  soft  snow,  al- 
though it  is  a  good 
shoe  when  used  over 
broken  trails. 

When  buying  snow- 
shoes  at  the  store,  see 
that  the  frames  are 
stoutly  and  well  made, 
and  for  all-around  use, 


This   Snowshoe  is   Considered 

the  Ordinary  Eastern  Model 

and  One  Best  Adapted  for 

AU-Around   Use 


39 


provided  with  a  gener- 
ously large  toe  hole,  so 
that  ample  foot  cover- 
ing may  be  used.  This 
point  is  generally  over- 
looked in  the  machine- 
made  product,  and  the 
toe  cords  are  also 
frequently  roughly 
formed,  thus  chafing 
the  feet  and  making 
them  sore.  These  de- 
tails may  or  may  not 
prove  a  handicap  for 
short  tramps  near 
town,  but  for  long 
trips  through  the 
woods,  they  are  im- 
portant considerations. 
The  Indian  manner 
of  tying  the  snowshoe 
to  the  foot  by  means  of 
a  single  twisted  and 
knotted  thong  is  a 
good  method  of  attach- 
ment, in  that,  if  the 
thong    is    properly    ad- 


justed to  the  requisite 
snugness  in  the  first 
place,  the  shoes  may 
be  quickly  removed  by 
a  simple  twist  of  the 
ankle.  A  better  fasten- 
ing is  secured  by  using 
a  fairly  wide  (%  in.) 
toe  strap  and  a  long 
thong.  The  toe  strap 
is  placed  over  the  toes, 
immediately  over  the 
ball  of  the  foot,  and  se- 
cured against  slipping 
by  weaving  the  ends  in 
and  out  between  the 
meshes  of  the  filling  un- 
til it  reaches  the  frame 
on  either  side.  This 
grips  the  toe  strap 
firmly  and  does  away 
with  the  necessity  of 
tying  a  knot.  A  nar- 
row thong,  about  4  ft. 
long,  is  now  doubled, 
the  center  placed  just 


40 


above  the  heel  of  the  foot,  and  the 
ends  passed  under  the  toe  cord,  just 
outside  of  the  toe-cord  stays  on  each 
side.  The  thong  is  then  brought  up 
and  across  the  toes,  one  end  passing 
over  and  the  other  under  the  toe 
strap.  Each  end  of  the  thong  is  now 
looped  around  the  crossed  thong,  on 
either  side,  and  then  carried  back  over 
the  back  of  the  heel  and  knotted  with 
a  common  square  or  reef  knot.  Calf- 
skin makes  a  good  flexible  foot  bind- 
ing, or  a  suitable  strip  of  folded  cloth 
or  canvas  may  be  used. 

The  regulation  snowshoe  harness, 
consisting  of  a  leather  stirrup  for  the 
toe  and  an  instep  and  heel  strap,  will 
be  found  more  comfortable  than  the 
thong,  and  when  once  adjusted  snugly 
to  the  foot,  the  shoes  may  be  quickly 


taken  ofT  and  put  on  again  by  pushing 
the  heel  strap  down,  when  the  foot  may 
be  slipped  out  of  the  toe  stirrup. 

The  use  of  heavy  leather  shoes  is  of 
course  undesirable,  and  the  only  cor- 
rect footwear  for  snowshoeing  is  a  pair 
of  high-cut  moccasins,  cut  roomy 
enough  to  allow  one  or  more  pairs  of 
heavy  woolen  stockings  to  be  worn. 
The  heavy  and  long  German  socks,  ex- 
tending halfway  to  the  knee,  drawn 
on  over  the  trouser  legs,  are  by  far  the 
most  comfortable  for  cold-weather 
wear.  The  feet,  thus  shod,  will  not 
only  be  warm  in  the  coldest  weather, 
but  the  free  use  of  the  toes  is  not  in- 
terfered with.  Leather  shoes  are  cold 
and  stifif,  and  the  heavy  soles  and 
heels,  chafing  against  the  snowshoes, 
will  soon  ruin  the  filling. 


Soldering  and  Riveting 

By  JOHN   D.  ADAMS 


There  are  two  simple  processes  that 
every  experimenter  should  master: 
soldering  and  riveting.  The  large  sold- 
ering copper  will  find  only  a  very  re- 


A  Small  Torch  Made  of   a  Penholder  is  Handy  to 
Use  in  Soldering  Electrical  Apparatus 

stricted  use  with  the  amateur  on  ac- 
count not  only  of  its  clumsiness,  but  of 
the  fact  that  it  requires  a  fire,  which 
is  often  impracticable  to  obtain.  The 
experimenter  should  therefore  con- 
struct a  small  alcohol  lamp,  which, 
after  a  little  experience,  will  reveal  the 
following  advantages:  It  may  be 
brought  into  instant  use  at  any  place ; 
it  will  make  a  more  perfect  connection ; 
with  a  small  blowpipe  places  may  be 
reached  that  are  entirely  inaccessible 
to  the  large  iron ;  several  small  pieces 
may  be  set  in  position  and  soldered 
without  disturbing  them,  which  is 
quite  impossible  with  the  large  iron. 

To  make  such  a  lamp,  procure  a 
small  wide-mouthed  bottle  so  that  very 
little  alcohol  will  be  necessary  and  the 
lamp  may  be  tipped  at  any  desired 
angle.    A  short  piece  of  seamless  brass 


tubing  should  be  procured,  or,  prefer- 
ably, one  of  those  capped  brass  cylin- 
ders for  holding  pencil  leads,  the  but- 
ton of  which  should  be  sawn  ofif  and 
the  cap  used  to  keep  the  alcohol  from 
evaporating.  A  good,  sound  cork  is 
next  in  order,  and  in  cutting  the  central 
hole,  use  the  brass  tube,  which  should 
be  sharpened  around  the  lower  end. 
Proceed  with  a  rotary  motion,  and  a 
clean  core  will  be  removed.  If  an  or- 
dinary lamp  wick  is  not  at  hand,  soft 
cotron  string 

may  be  bundled 
up  as  a  substi- 
tute. Such  a 
lamp  is  safe, 
odorless  and  will 
not  blacken  the 
work  in  the  least 
as  in  the  case  of 
kerosene  or  gas- 
oline. 

There  are  many  good  soldering 
fluxes  on  the  market,  but  that  obtained 
by  dissolving  as  much  scrap  of  zinc 
as  possible  in  muriatic  acid  will  solder 
practically  everything  that  may  be 
necessary,  provided,  of  course,  the  sur- 
faces are  filed  or  scraped  bright.   Wire 


41 


solder  is  usually  the  most  convenient, 
as  small  pieces  can  be  readily  cut  off 
and  placed  directly  on  the  work  where 
required.  A  small  blowpipe  is  often 
a  valuable  adjunct,  as  it  makes  possi- 
ble a  long,  narrow  flame  that  may  be 
directed  in  almost  any  direction. 

Where  numerous  small  connections 
are  to  be  made,  as  is  often  the  case  with 
electrical  apparatus,  the  small  torch 
illustrated  will  be  found  very  conven- 
ient. It  is  simply  an  old  penholder 
with     the     wood      portion      shortened 

somewhat       and 
iB  the     metal     end 

filed    off    square 

and  cleaned  out. 

This  is  then 
filled  with  wicking,  and  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  dip  it  in  alcohol  in  order  to 
soak  up  enough  to  solder  an  ordinary 
connection. 

The  second  simple  process,  of  which 
many  fail  to  appreciate  the  usefulness 
in  experimental  work,  is  that  of  rivet- 
ing— particularly  when  done  on  a  small 
scale.  Very  often  the  material  in  hand 
is  tempered  steel  and  cannot,  therefore, 
be  soldered  to  advantage,  or  it  may  be 
a  case  where  subsequent  heating  makes 
a  heat-proof  connection  imperative. 
Then,  again,  the  joint  may  require  the 
combined  strength  of  both  solder  and 
rivet. 

When  properly  set,  the  strength  of 
the  ordinary  brass  pin,  when  used  as 
a  rivet,  is  quite  great.  Should  the 
work  require  a  particular!)'  soft  rivet, 
it  is  only  necessary  to  hold  the  pin  for 
a  moment  in  the  flame  of  a  match.  A 
somewhat  larger  and  stronger  rivet 
may  be  made  by  softening  and  cutting 
to  the  required  length  the  small  flat- 
headed  nails  used  in  making  cigar 
boxes.  The  ordinary  shingle  nail  is 
also  of  a  suitable  shape  after  the  burrs 
have  been  filed  off  under  the  head. 

In  settinsj  these  small  rivets,  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  that  they  closely 
fit  the  holes,  as  at  A,  otherwise  the  re- 
sult will  be  as  indicated  at  B  in  the 
sketch.  Be  careful  not  to  leave  too 
great  a  length  for  rounding  over  on  the 
metal.  This  extra  length  should  ap- 
proximately equal  the  diameter  of  the 


rivet  and  must  be  filed  flat  on  the  top 
before  riveting.  In  case  of  pins,  it  will 
be  found  easier  to  cut  them  off  to  the 


A  Few  Joints  Where  Rivets  are  Used  to  Hold  the 
Parts  Solidly  Together 

proper  length  after  they  are  inserted. 
Use  the  smallest  hammer  available, 
striking  many  light  blows  rather  than 
a  few  heavy  ones. 


A  Whistle 

Cut  a  circular  piece  of  tin  any  con- 
venient size,  preferably  3  in.  in  diam- 
eter, and  bend  it  across  the  diameter  so 
that  it  will  be 
in  a  narrow  U- 
shape.  Then  drill 
or  punch  a  hole 
through  both 
parts  as  shown. 
Place  it  in  the  mouth  with  the  open 
edges  out,  being  sure  to  press  the  lips 
on  the  metal  tightly  on  both  upper  and 
lower  pieces  outside  of  the  holes  and 
to  rest  the  tongue  against  the  edge 
of  the  tin,  even  with  the  holes,  and 
blow. 

The  result  of  the  first  attempt  may 
not  be  a  sound,  but  with  a  little  prac- 
tice any  familiar  tune  may  be  whistled. 
—Contributed  by  Chas.  C.  Bradley,  W 
Toledo,  O. 


Card-and-Coin  Trick 

If  a  card  is  balanced  on  the  finger  and 
a  coin  placed  on  the  card  directly  over 
the  finger,  one 
would  not  think 
that  the  card 
could  be  flipped 
out  lea\'ing  the 
coin  on  the  finger 
end.  This  is  eas- 
ily accomplished, 
if  care  is  taken  to  snap  the  card  sharply 
and  squarely. — Contributed  by  R. 
Neland,  Minneapolis,  Minn. 


42 


How  to  Make  a  Costumer 

With  but  little  skill,  and  such  tools 
as  are  ordinarily  found  around  a  home, 
a  plain  ln:t  serviceable  costumer  can  be 
made,  as  shown 
in  the  sketch. 
The  necessary 
materials  for  it 
are :  One  main 
post,  11/2  in. 
square  and  about 
61/2  ft.  long;  four 
legs,  or  foot 
brackets,  %  by  6 
by  9  in. ;  four 
brass  clothes 
hooks,  and  the 
necessary  screws 
and  varnish  for 
assembling  and 
finishing. 

The  center 
post  should  be 
chamfered  at  the 
top  to  relieve  the 
abruptness.  The 
four  legs  should 
all  be  made  alike 
and  in  some 
shape  that  allows 
them  to  be  fas- 
tened to  the  post  in  a  simple  manner. 
In  the  sketch,  the  legs  are  fastened  to 
the  post  by  one  visible  screw  at  the  top 
and  one  put  in  on  an  incline  through 
the  bottom  edge  of  the  leg.  The  clothes 
hooks  are  fastened  to  the  post  in  pairs 
at  different  heights,  thereby  preventing 
the  screws  of  adjacent  hooks  from  run- 
ning into  one  another.  The  finish  of 
the  costumer  should  be  such  as  to 
match  the  woodwork  of  its  surround- 
ings.— Contributed  by  Harry  A.  Pack- 
ard, Norway,  iNIaine. 


Window  Catch  Used  for  Locking  an 
Extension  Table 

To  prevent  the  two  ends  of  an  exten- 
sion table  from  pulling  apart  when  not 
desired,  an  ordinary  window  catch  can 
be  fastened  and  locked  in  place  to  the 
under  side  of  the  table  top  with  one 
part  on  each  end  of  the  table.     If  but 


one  catch  is  used  and  fastened  in  the 
center,  it  is  best  to  mark  it  off  first,  and 
then  pull  the  table  ends  apart  to  fasten 
the  catch  more  easily.  It  may  be  de- 
sired to  use  two  catches  for  a  very 
heavy  table,  in  which  case  it  would  be 
best  to  place  one  on  either  side  of  the 
center. — Contributed  by  F.  M.  Gris- 
wold.  New  York,  N.  Y. 


Relieving  Pressure  on  Heated  Canned 
Foods  for  Opening 

In  opening  a  can  of  food  that  has 
been  heated,  the  instant  the  cover  is 
punctured  the  steam  will  force  out  a 
part  of  the  contents,  which  is  very  an- 
noying. To  avoid  this,  pour  a  little 
cold  water  on  the  cover  and  allow  it 
to  remain  a  few  seconds,  then  turn  it 
off  and  immediately  puncture  the 
cover.  This  will  counteract  the  interior 
force,  and  the  can  may  be  opened  with- 
out trouble. — Contributed  by  Joseph 
Kohlbecher,  Jr.,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


Clothespin  Bag 

Clothespins  are  usually  kept  in  a  bag, 
and  the  one  our  home  possessed  had  a 
draw  string 
which  would  al- 
ways stick  and 
hold  the  bag 
shut.  The  rem- 
edy for  this,  and 
a  time  saver  also, 
was  to  remove 
the  draw  string 
and  insert  in- 
stead a  piece  of 
wire,  which  was 
afterward  shaped 
to  a  circle  with 
an  eyelet  at  the 
joint.  The  bag 
can  be  hung  on  a 
nail  and  the 
mouth  is  always 
open  to  its  fullest 
extent,  yet  lies 
flat    against    the 

wall. — Contributed    by    Jas.    A.    Hart, 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 


HOW  TO  MAKE 
AND  USE  THEM 


By  Still  man  Taylor 


PART   II— Making    the   Shoe 

[In  making  the  snowshoe  it  may  be  necessary  to  refer  to  the  previous 
chapter  to  select  the  style,  or  to  locate  the  name  of  the  parts  u^ed  in  the 
description. — Editor.  ] 


[NOWSHOE  mak- 
ing is  an  art,  and 
while  few,  if  any, 
white  men  can  equal 
the  Indian  in  weaving  the  intricate  pat- 
terns which  they  prefer  to  employ  for  fill- 
ing the  frames,  it  is  not  very  difficult  to 
fashion  a  good  solid  frame  and  then  fill  it 
by  making  use  of  a  simple  and  open  system 
of  meshing.  For  the  frames,  white  ash  is 
much  the  best  wood,  but  hickory  and  white 
birch  are  dependable  substitutes,  if  the 
former  cannot  be  obtained.  Birch  is  per- 
haps the  best  wood  to  use  when  the  sports- 
man wishes  to  cut  and  split  up  his  own 
wood,  but  as  suitable  material  for  the 
frames  may  be  readily  purchased  for  a 
small  sum,  probably  the  majority  of  the 
readers  will  elect  to  buy  the  material.  Any 
lumber  dealer  will  be  able  to  supply  white 
ash,  and  it  is  a  simple  matter  to  saw  out 
the  frames  from  the  board.  The  savved-out 
frame  is  inferior  to  the  hand-split  bow,  but 
if  good,  selected  material  can  be  obtained, 
there  will  be  little,  if  any,  difference  for 
ordinary  use. 

When  dry  and  well-seasoned  lumber  is 
used,    the    frame    may    be   made    to    the 
proper     dimensions,    but     when     green 
wood    is    selected,   the   frame   must   be 
made  somewhat  heavier,  to  allow  for 
the  usual  shrinkage  in  seasoning.     For 
a    stout    snowshoe    frame,    the    width 
should  be  about  1^^  in. ;  thickness  at 
toe,  fjr  in.,  and  thickness  at  heel,  /^  in. 
The  frame  should  be  cut  2  in.  longer 


The  Design  of   the   Snowshoe  is  Traced   on  a  Board, 

and  Blocks  are  Used  to  Shape  the 

Frame  or  Bow 


43 


44 


Locate  the  Cross  Bars 

by  Balancing  the  Frame, 

Then  Fit  the  Ends  in 

Shallow  Mortises 


than  the  finished  length  desired,  and 
in  working  the  wood,  remember  that 
the  toe  of  the  finished  frame  will  be  the 
center  of  the 
stick;  the  heel, 
the  end  of  the 
stick,  and  the 
center  of  the 
shoe  will  lie  half- 
way between  the 
heel  and  toe. 

After  the 
frames  have 
b  e  en  finished, 
the  dry  wootl 
must  be  steamed 
before  it  can  be  safely  bent  to  the  re- 
quired shape,  and  before  doing  this,  a 
wooden  bending  form  must  be  made. 
An  easy  way  to  make  this  form  is  to 
first  draw  a  pattern  of  the  model  on  a 
sheet  of  paper,  cut  out  the  pencil  mark, 
and,  placing  this  pattern  on  a  board, 
carefully  trace  the  design  on  the 
wooden  form.  A  number  of  cleats,  or 
blocks,  of  wood  will  now  be  needed  : 
the  inside  blocks  being  nailed  in  posi- 
tion, but  the  outside  stay  blocks  being 
simply  provided  with  nails  in  the  holes, 
so  they  may  be  quickly  fastened  in 
position  when  the  steamed  frame  is 
ready  for  the  form. 

To  make  the  frame  soft  for  bending 
to  shape,  steaming  must  be  resorted  to, 
and  perhaps  the  easiest  way  of  doing 
this   is  to  provide  boiling  water  in  a 


Begin  Weaving  the  Toe  Filling  at  the  Corner  of 

Cross  Bar  and  Frame,   Carrying  It  Around 

in  a  Triangle  until  Complete 

wash  boiler,  place  the  wood  over  the 
top,  and  soak  well  by  mopping  with 
the  boiling  water,  shifting  the  stick 
about  until  the  fibers  have  become  soft 


and  pliable..  After  10  or  1')  minutes  of 
the  hot-walcr  treatment,  wrap  the  stick 
with  cloth  and  bend  it  back  and  forth 
to  render  it  more  and  more  pliable,  then 
use  the  hot-water  treatment,  and  re- 
peat the  process  until  the  wood  is  suf- 
ficiently soft  to  bend  easily  without 
splintering.  The  toe  being  tlie  greatest 
curve,  must  be  well  softened  before 
putting  on  the  form,  otherwise  the 
fibers  are  likely  to  splinter  ofT  at  this 
point.  When  the  frame  is  well  soft- 
ened, place  it  on  the  bending  form 
while  hot.  slowly  bend  it  against  the 
wooden  inside  blocks,  and  nail  on  the 
outside  blocks  to  hold  it  to  the  proper 
curve.  Begin  with  the  toe,  and  after 
fastening  the  outside  blocks  to  hold 
this  end,  finish  one  side,  then  bend  the 
other  half  to  shape.  The  bent  frame 
should  be  allowed  to  dry  on  the  form 
for  at  least  a  week ;  if  removed  before 
the  wood  has  become  thoroughly  dry 
and  has  taken  a  permanent  set,  the 
frame  will  not  retain  its  shape.  The 
same  bending  form  may  be  used  for 
both  frames,  but  if  one  is  in  a  hurry 
to  finish  the  shoes,  two  forms  should  be 
made,  and  considerable  pains  must  be 
taken  to  make  them  exactly  alike  in 
every  way. 

When  the  frames  are  dry,  secure  the 
tail  end  of  the  frame  by  boring  three 
holes  about  4  in.  from  the  end,  and 
fasten  with  rawhide.  The  work  of  fit- 
ting the  two  cross  bars  may  now  be 
undertaken,  and  the  balance  of 'the 
snowshoe  depends  upon  fitting  these 
bars  in  their  proper  places.  Before 
cutting  the  mortise,  spring  the  two 
bars  in  the  frame  about  15  in.  apart,  and 
balance  the  shoe  in  the  center  by  hold- 
ing it  in  the  hands.  When  the  frame 
exactly  balances,  move  the  bars  suffi- 
ciently to  make  the  heel  about  3  oz. 
heavier  than  the  toe,  and  mark  the 
place  where  the  mortises  are  to  be  cut. 
The  cross  bars  and  mortise  must  be  a 
good  tight  fit,  and  a  small,  sharp  chisel 
will  enable  the  builder  to  make  a  neat 
job.  It  is  not  necessary  to  cut  the 
mortise  very  deep ;  1,4  in-  is  ample  to 
aiTord  a  firm  and  snug  mortised  joint. 
The  lanyard  to  which  the  filling  is 
woven  is  next  put  in,  by  boring  pairs 


45 


of  small  holes  in  the  toe  and  heel  sec- 
tions, and  lacing  a  narrow  rawhide 
thong  through  the  obliquely  drilled 
holes.  Three  holes  are  then  bored  in 
the  cross  bar — one  on  each  side  about 
iy2  i'l-  from  the  frame,  and  the  third 
in  the  center  of  the  bar ;  the  lanyard 
being  carried  through  these  holes  in  the 
cross  bar. 

Begin  the  toe  filling  first,  by  making 
an  eye  in  one  end  of  the  thong,  put  the 
end  through  the  lanyard  loop  and  then 
through  the  eye,  thus  making  a  slipknot. 
Start  to  weave  at  the  corner  where  the 
bar  and  frame  are  mortised,  carry  the 
strand  up  and  twist  it  around  the  lan- 
yards in  the  middle  of  the  toe,  then  carry 
it  down  and  make  a  like  twist  around 
the  lanyard  loop  in  the  opposite  corner. 
The  thong  is  now  looped  around  the 
next  lanyard  (No.  2  from  the  cross- 
bar lanyard)  and  fastened  with  the 
twisted  loop  knot  illustrated.  Continue 
the  strand  across  the  width  of  toe 
space  and  make  a  similar  loop  knot  on 
No.  2  lanyard  on  the  starting  side, 
twist  it  around  the  strand  first  made 
and  loop  it  under  the  next  cross-bar 
lanyard  loop,  then  carry  it  up  and  twist 
it  around  the  lanyard  loop  in  the  toe 
of  the  frame,  continuing  in  the  same 
manner  until  the  last  lanyard  of  the  toe 
is  reached,  when  the  space  is  finished 
by  making  the  twisted  loop  knot  until 
the  space  is  entirely  filled.  It  is  a  dif- 
ficult matter  to  describe  by  text,  but 
the  illustrations  will  point  out  the 
correct  way,  and  show  the  manner  of 
making  an  endless  thong  by  eye-splic- 
ing, as  well  as  illustrating  the  wooden 
bodkin  or  needle  used  in  pulling  the 
woven  strands  taut.  This  bodkin  is 
easily  made  from  a  small  piece  of  wood, 
about  1/4  in.  thick,  and  aliout  2  in.  long. 


strong,  carry  the  strand  across  the 
frame  five  or  six  times,  finishing  with 
a  half-hitch  knot,  as  shown,  then  carry 


An   Endless   Thong   is    Made   with    Eyes    Cut   in   the 

Ends  of  the    Leather,    and    Each   Part   is    Run 

through  the  Eye  of  the  Other 

To  simplify  matters,  the  heel  may  be 
filled  in  the  same  manner  as  the  toe. 

For  the  center,  which  must  be  woven 
strong  and  tight,  a  heavier  strand  of 
hide  must  be  used.  Begin  with  the 
toe  cord  first,  and  to  make  this  amply 


The  Heel  Filling  is  Woven  by  Making  the  Connection 

with  the  Lanyard  in  the   Same   Manner   as 

for  the  Toe  Filling 

it  up  and  twist  it  around  the  cross  bar 
to  form  the  first  toe-cord  stay. 

As  may  be  noted,  the  center  section 
is  filled  by  looping  back  and  twisting 
the  strands  as  when  filling  the  toe. 
However,  the  filling  is  looped  around 
the  frame  instead  of  a  lanyard,  and  a 
clove  hitch  is  used.  A  toe  hole,  4  in. 
wide,  must  be  provided  for,  and  when 
enough  of  the  filling  has  been  woven 
in  to  make  this  opening,  the  thong  is 
no  longer  looped  around  the  cross  bar, 
but  woven  through  the  toe  cord.  As 
the  filling  ends  in  the  toe  cord,  it  should 
be  wo\'en  in  and  out  at  this  point  sev- 
eral times,  finishing  the  toe  hole  by 
looping  a  strand  around  the  cross  bar 
at  the  side  of  the  toe  hole,  then  pass- 
ing it  down  the  toe-cord  stay  by  twist- 
ing around  it ;  then  twisted  around  the 
toe  cord  along  the  filling  to  the  other 
side  of  the  toe  hole,  where  it  is  twisted 
around  the  toe-cord  stay  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  looped  around  the  frame  and 
ended  in  a  clove  hitch. 

At  the  first  reading,  it  will  doubtless 
appear  difficult,  but  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  the  illustrations  will  soon  show 
how  the  trick  is  done,  and  indeed  it  is 
really  a  very  simple  matter,  being  one 
of  those  things  which  are  easier  to  do 
than  it  is  to  tell  how  to  do  them.  The 
method  of  filling  has  been  purposely 
made  simple,  but  the  majority  of  shoes 
are  filled  in  practically  the  same  man- 
ner, which  answers  quite  as  well  as  the 
more  intricate  Indian  design. 


46 


The  knack  of  using  the  snowshoe  is 
quickly  mastered,  j)roviding  the  shoes 
are  properly  attached,  to  allow  the  toe 


The  Center  must  be  Woven  Strong  and  Tight, 

and  for  This  Reason  a  Heavier  Strand  of 

Hide  must  be  Used 

ample  freedom  to  work  down  through 
the  toe  hole  as  each  foot  is  lifted.  The 
shoe  is,  of  course,  not  actually  lifted  in 
the  air,  but  rather  slid  along  the  sur- 
face, half  the  width  of  one  shoe  cover- 
ing the  other  when  it  is  lifted  in  the  act 
of  walking.  At  first  the  novice  may  be 
inclined  to  think  snowshoes  a  bit  cum- 
bersome and  unwieldy,  and  doubt  his 
ability  to  penetrate  the  brush.  How- 
ever, as  the  snowshoer  becomes  accus- 
tomed to  their  use,  he  will  experience 
little  if  any  difficulty  in  traveling  where 
he  wills.  When  making  a  trail  in  a 
more  or  less  open  country,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  blaze  it  thoroughly,  thus  en- 
abling one  to  return  over  the  same 
trail,  in  case  a  fall  of  snow  should  occur 
in  the  meantime,  or  drifting  snow  fill 
up  and  obliterate  the  trail  first  made. 
When  the  trail  is  first  broken  by  travel- 
ing over  it  once  by  snowshoe,  the  snow 
is  packed  well  and  forms  a  solid  foun- 
dation, and  even  should  a  heavy  fall 
of  snow  cover  it,  the  blaze  marks  on 
tree  and  bush  will  point  out  the  trail, 
which  will  afford  faster  and  easier 
traveling  than  breaking  a  new  trail 
each  time  one  journeys  in  the  same 
direction. 

A  well-made  pair  of  snowshoes  will 
stand  a  couple  of  seasons'  hard  use,  or 
last  for  a  year  or  two  longer  for  gen- 
eral wear.  To  keep  them  in  good 
shape,  they  should  be  dried  out  after 
use,  although  it  is  never  advisable  to 


place  them  close  to  a  hot  fire,  or  the 
hide  filling  will  be  injured.  Jumping 
puts  severe  strain  on  the  frame  of  the 
shoe,  and  while  damage  may  not  occur 
when  so  used  in  deep,  soft  snow,  it  is 
well  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  break- 
age. Accidents  will  now  and  then 
happen,  to  be  sure,  and  as  a  thong  may 
snap  at  some  unexpected  moment,  keep 
a  strand  or  two  of  rawhide  on  hand, 
to  meet  this  emergency. 

Combination  Settee  Rocker  and  Cradle 

By  fastening  a  frame  with  hinges  to 
the  front  of  a  settee  rocker,  a  combina- 
tion piece  of  furniture  can  be  made, 
which  may  be  used  either  as  a  regular 
settee  or  as  a  cradle.  For  this  purpose, 
a  covered  frame  should  be  provided, 
being  sufficiently  long  to  extend  across 
the  front  between  the  arm  supports  and 
having  such  a  width  that  it  will  easily 
fit  under  the  arms  when  hinged  to  the 
seat,  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  To 
keep  the  frame  in  position  while  serv- 
ing as  a  cradle  front,  or  when  turned 
down  for  regular  use,  screw  hooks  are 
placed  at  each  end,  so  that,  in  the  for- 
mer case,  the  frame,  when  swung  up, 
can  be  secured  in  place  by  attaching 
the  hooks  to  screw  eyes  fastened  under 
the  arm  supports ;  while,  for  regular 
use,  the  frame  is  secured  in  its  swung- 


A  Settee  Rocker  with  a  Front  Attachment  to  Make 
It  into  a  Cradle  When  Desired 

down  position  by  fastening  the  hooks 
into  screw  eyes  properly  placed  in  the 
front  legs. — Contributed  by  Maurice 
Baudier,  New  Orleans,   La. 


A  Snowball  Thrower 


By  ALBERT 

The  snow  fort  with  its  infantry  is 
not  complete  without  the  artillery.  A 
set  of  mortars,  or  cannon,  placed  in  the 
fort  to  hurl  snowballs  at  the  entrenched 
enemy  makes  the  battle  more  real.  A 
device  to  substitute  the  cannon  or  a 
mortar  can  be  easily  constructed  by 
any  boy,  and  a  few  of  them  set  in  a 
snow  fort  will  add  greatly  to  the 
interest  of  the  conflict. 

The  substitute,  which  is  called  a 
snowball  thrower,  consists  of  a  base, 
A,  with  a  standard,  B,  which  stops  the 
arm  C,  controlled  by  the  bar  D,  when 
the  trigger  E  is  released.  The  tripping 
of  the  trigger  is  accomplished  by  the 
sloping  end  of  D  on  the  slanting  end 
of  the  upright  F.  Sides,  G,  are  fast- 
ened on  tlie  piece  F,  with  their  upper 
ends   extending  above   the   bar   D,   to 


BATES,  Jr. 


V 


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fj 


r  6 


o — ■ i-H 

1   • 

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L \e.'- A 

^1 

I 
D 


The  Dimensioned  Parts  and  the  Detail  of  the 
Completed  Snowball  Thrower 

prevent   the   latter  from   jumping  out 
when  it  is  released  by  the  trigger. 

The   trigger   E   is   tripped   with   the 
handle  H,  connected  to  the  piece  J,  on 


which  all  the  working  parts  are 
mounted.  The  upper  end  of  the  arm 
C  has  a  piece,  K,  to  which  is  attached  a 


Cannonading  a  Snow  Fort  with  the  Use  of  a 
Snowball  Thrower 

tin  can,  L,  for  holding  the  snowball  to 
be  thrown.  A  set  of  door  springs,  M, 
furnishes  the  force  to  throw  the  snow- 
ball. 

All  the  parts  are  given  dimensions, 
and  if  cut  properly,  they  will  fit  to- 
gether to  make  the  thrower  as 
illustrated. 


Springs  on  the  Chains  of  a  Porch 
Swing 

Two  coil  springs  of  medium  strength 
placed  in  the  chains  of  a  porch  swing 
will  make  it  ride  easier  and  also  take 
up  any  unpleasant  jars  and  rattles 
occasioned  when  a  person  sits  heavily 
in  the.  swing.  If  the  swing  is  provided 
with  a  four-chain  suspension,  the 
springs  should  be  used  on  the  two  rear 
chains  to  get  the  best  results. — Con- 
tributed by  E.  K.  Marshall,  Oak  Park, 
Illinois. 


48 


Homemade  Water  Meter 

Where  it  is  necessary  to  measure 
water  in  large  quantities  the  meter  il- 
lustrated will  serve  the  purpose  as  well 


Fic,3 


When  a  Bucket  is  Filled  to  the  Proper  Amount 
It  is  Turned  Out  by  the  Weight 

as  an  expensive  one,  and  can  be  made 
cheaply.  The  vessel,  or  bucket,  for 
measuring  the  water  is  made  diamond- 
shaped,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  with  a 
partition  in  the  center  to  make  two 
pockets  of  a  triangular  shape,  each 
holding  3  qt.,  or  any  amount  of  suffi- 
cient size  to  take  care  of  the  flow  of 
water. 

The  part  forming  the  pockets  is 
swung  on  an  axis  fastened  to  the  lower 
part,  which  engages  into  bearings  fas- 
tened to  the  sides  of  the  casing,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Stops,  A,  are  placed 
in  the  casing  at  the  right  places  for 
each  pocket  to  spill  when  exactly  3  qt. 
of  water  has  run  into  it.  It  is  obvious 
that  when  one  pocket  is  filled,  the 
weight  will  tip  it  over  and  bring  the 
other  one  up  under  the  flow  of  water; 

The  registering  device  consists  of 
one  or  more  wheels  worked  with  pawls 
and  ratchets,  the  first  wheel  being 
turned  a  notch  at  a  time  by  the  pawl 
B,  Fig.  3.  If  each  pocket  holds  2  qt., 
the  wheel  is  marked  as  shown,  as  each 


pocket  must  discharge  to  cause  the 
wheel  to  turn  one  notch.  The  second 
wheel  is  worked  by  the  lever  and  pawl 
C,  which  is  driven  with  a  pin  D  located 
in  the  first  wheel.  Any  number  of 
wheels  can  be  made  to  turn  in  a  like 
manner. — Contributed  by  F.  A.  Porter, 
Oderville,  Utah. 


A  Snowball  Maker 

Snowball  making  is  slow  when  car- 
ried on  by  hand,  and  where  a  thrower 
is  employed  in  a  snow  fort  it  becomes 
necessary  to  have  a  number  of  assist- 
ants in  making  the  snowballs.  The 
time  of  making  these  balls  can  be 
greatly  reduced  by  the  use  of  the  snow- 
ball  maker  shown   in   the  illustration. 

The  base  consists  of  a  board.  24  in. 
long,  61/2  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick.  A 
block  of  wood.  A,  is  hollowed  out  in 
the  center  to  make  a  depression  in  the 
shape  of  a  hemisphere,  2i/^  in.  in  diame- 
ter and  11/4  in.  deep.  This  block  is 
nailed  to  the  base  about  1  in.  from  one 
end.  To  make  the  dimensions  come 
out  right,  fasten  a  block,  B,  6  in.  high, 
made  of  one  or  more  pieces,  at  the 
other  end  of  the  base  with  its  back 
edge  141/^  in.  from  the  center  of  th'fe 
hemispherical  depression.  On  top  of 
this  block  a  lever,  C,  30  in.  long  is 
hineed.     Another    block,    D,    is    made 


A   Device  for  Making    Snowballs  Quickly 
and  Perfectly  Spherical  in  Shape 

with  a  hemispherical  depression  like 
the  block  A,  and  fastened  to  the  under 
side  of  the  lever,  so  that  the  depres- 
sions in  both  blocks  will  coincide.  The 
lever  end  is  shaped  into  a  handle. 


49 


Two  uprights,  E,  are  fastened  to  the 
back  side  of  the  block  A  as  guides  for 
the  lever  C.  A  piece  is  fastened  across 
their  tops,  and  a  spring  is  attached  be- 
tween it  and  the  lever.  A  curtain-roll- 
er spring  will  be  suitable. 

In  making  the  balls  a  bunch  of  snow 
is  thrown  into  the  lower  depression 
and  the  lever  brought  down  with  con- 
siderable force. — Contributed  by  Ab- 
bott W.  France,  Chester,  Pa. 


An  Inexpensive  Bobsled 

Any  boy  who  can  drive  a  nail  and 
bore  a  hole  can  have  a  bobsled  on  short 
notice.  The  materials  necessary  are 
four  good,  solid  barrel  staves ;  four 
blocks  of  wood,  4  in.  long,  4  in.  wide, 
and  2  in.  thick;  two  pieces.  12  in.  long, 
4  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick ;  one  piece, 
12    in.    long,    2    in.    wide,   and    1%    in. 


A  Bobsled  of  Simple  Construction  Using  Ordinary 
Barrel  Staves  for  the  Runners 

thick;  and  a  good  board,  4  ft.  long,  12 
in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick. 

The  crosspieces  and  knees  are  made 
with  the  blocks  and  the  1-in.  pieces, 
12  in.  long,  as  shown ;  to  which  the 
staves  are  nailed  for  runners.  One 
of  these  pieces  with  the  runners  is  fas- 
tened to  one  end  of  the  board,  the 
other  is  attached  with  a  bolt  in  the 
center.  The  1%  by  2-in.  piece,  12  in. 
long,  is  fastened  across  the  top  of  the 
board  at  the  front  end.  A  rope  fas- 
tened to  the  knees  of  the  front  runners 
provides  a  means  of  steering  the  sled. 

The  sled  can  be  quickly  made,  and  it 
will  serve  the  purpose  well  when  an 
expensive  one  cannot  be  had. — Con- 
tributed by  H.  J.  Blacklidge,  San 
Rafael,  Cal. 


Motor  Made  of  Candles 

A  tube  of  tin,  or  cardboard,  having 
an  inside  diameter  to  receive  a  candle 
snugly,  is  hung  on  an  axle  in  the  center 


Tallow  Dripping  from  the 
Ends  Alternately 

Lessens  the  Weight  of  the 
Arms  and  Causes 
the  Tube  to  Tip 


^:^ 


that  turns  in  bearings  made  of  wood. 
The  construction  of  the  bearings  is  sim- 
ple, and  they  can  be  made  from  three 
pieces  of  wood  as  shown.  The  tube 
should  be  well  balanced.  Pieces  of  can- 
dle are  then  inserted  in  the  ends,  also 
well  balanced.  If  one  is  heavier  than 
the  other,  light  it  and  allow  the  tallow 
to  run  off  until  it  rises;  then  light  the 
other  end.  The  alternate  dripping  from 
the  candles  will  cause  the  tube  to  tip 
back  and  forth  like  a  walking  beam. 
It  will  keep  going  automatically  until 
the  candles  are  entirely  consumed. — 
Contributed  by  Geo.  Jaques,  Chicago. 


Kettle-Handle  Support 

The  handle  of  a  kettle  lying  on  the 
kettle  rim  will  become  so  hot  that  it 
cannot  be  held 
in  the  bare  hand. 
To  keep  the 
handle  fairly 
cool  it  must  be 
supported  in  an 
upright  position. 
To  do  this,  form 
a  piece  of  spring 
wire  in  the  shape 

shown,  and  slip  it  over  the  kettle  rim. 
The  .shape  of  the  extending  end  will 
hold  the  handle  upright  and  away  from 
the  heat. 


50 


How  to  Make  a  Monorail  Sled 

A  monorail  sled,  having  a  simple 
tandem  arrangement  of  the  runners,  is 
very  easily  constructed  as  follows : 
The  runners  are  cut  from   1-in.  plank 


An  Exhilarating  Glide  Accompanied  by  a  Buoyant 

Sense  of  Freedom  Only  Obtained  in 

the  Monorail  Type 

of  the  size  and  shape  given  in  the 
sketch,  and  are  shod  with  strap  iron, 
1  in.  wide  and  i/4  in.  thick.  Round  iron 
or  half-round  iron  should  not  be  used, 
as  these  are  liable  to  skid.  The  square, 
sharp  edges  of  the  strap  iron  prevent 
this  and  grip  the  surface  just  as  a 
skate. 

The  top  is  a  board  6  ft.  long  and  1 
in.  thick,  securely  fastened  to  the  run- 
ners as  follows:  Blocks  are  nailed,  or 
bolted,  on  either  side  of  the  upper  edge 
of  the  rear  runner  and  the  top  is 
fastened  to  them  with  screws.  The 
runner  is  also  braced  with  strap  iron, 
as  shown.  The  same  method  applies 
to  tlie  front  runner,  except  that  only 
one  pair  of  blocks  are  used  at  the  cen- 
ter and  a  thin  piece  of  wood  fastened 
to  their  tops  to  serve  as  the  fifth  wheel. 

The  hole  for  the  steering  post  should 


The  Construction  is  Much  More  Simple  Than 
Making  a  Double-Runner  Bobsled 

be  6  in.  from  the  front  end  and  a  little 
larger  in  diameter  than  the  steering 
post.  The  latter  should  be  rounded 
where  it  passes  through  the  hole,  but 
square  on  the  upper  end  to  receive  the 


steering   bar,    which    must   be    tightly 
fitted  in  place. 

In  coasting,  the  rider  lies  full  length 
on  the  board  with  his  hands  on  "the 
steering  bar.  This  makes  the  center 
of  gravity  so  low  that  there  is  no  neces- 
sity for  lateral  steadying  runners,  and 
aside  from  the  exhilarating  glide  of 
the  ordinary  sled,  the  rider  experiences 
a  buoyant  sense  of  freedom  and  a  zest 
peculiar  to  the  monorail  type.  Then, 
too,  the  steering  is  effected  much  more 
easily.  Instead  of  dragging  the  feet,  a 
slight  turn  of  the  front  runner  with  a 
corresponding  movement  of  the  body 
is  sufificient  to  change  the  direction  or 
to  restore  the  balance.  This  latter  is, 
of  course,  maintained  quite  mechan- 
ically, as  everyone  who  rides  a  bicycle 
well  knows. — Contributed  by  Harry 
Hardy,  Whitby,  Ont. 


^Zi 


■Gi 


Binding  Magazines 

To  hind  magazines  for  rough  serv- 
ice, proceed  as  follows:  Place  the 
magazines  carefully  one  on  top  of  the 
other  in  order, 
and  space  the 
upper  one,  near 
the  back  edge, 
for  two  rivets, 
marking  off 
three  equal  distances,  or,  perhaps,  the 
center  space  longer  than  the  other  two. 
Make  two  holes  through  all  the  maga- 
zines on  the  marks  with  an  awl,  or 
drill,  then  drive  nails  of  the  right  length 
through  them.  Use  small  washers  on 
both  ends  of  the  nails  under  the  head 
and  at  the  point,  which  is  cut  off  and 
riveted  over.  This  makes  a  good,  serv- 
iceable binding  for  rough  use. — Con- 
tributed by  Carl  W.  Lindgreen,  Los 
Angeles,  Cal. 


A  Shellac  Cement 

As  shellac  is  the  basis  of  almost  ail 
cements,  a  good  cement  can  l)e  made 
by  thickening  shellac  varnish  with  dry 
white  lead.  The  two  may  be  worked 
together  on  a  piece  of  glass  with  a 
putty  knife. 


51 


A  Blackboard  for  Children 

Take  a  wide  window  shade  and  at- 
tach it  to  a  roller  as  if  hanging  it  to 
a  window.  Cut  it  to  about  3  ft.  in 
length,  hem  the  lower  edge  and  insert 
in  the  slot  in  the  usual  manner.  Pro- 
cure some  black  slate  paint  and  cover 
the  shade  on  one  side,  giving  it  two 
coats.  Allow  sufficient  time  for  the 
first  coat  to  dry  before  applying  the 
second  coat. 

A  blackboard  of  this  kind  is  strong, 
and  if  attached  to  the  wall  with  the 
shade  fixtures,  it  can  be  rolled  out  of 
the  way  when  not  in  use. — Contrib- 
uted by  Elizabeth  Motz  Rossoter,  Col- 
orado Springs,  Col. 


How  to  Make  a  Ski  Staff 

A  ski  stafY  will  greatly  assist  prog- 
ress over  level  stretches  and  is  an  aid 
to  the  ski  runner  in  preserving  his 
balance.  A  homemade  staff  that  is 
easy  to  construct  is  shown  in  Fig.  1. 
At  the  upper  end  is  a  narrow  leather 
loop  for  the  wrist ;  at  the  extreme 
lower  end  a  spike  is  placed  for  use  on 
icy  ground,  and  just  above  this  spike 
is  a  disk,  or  stop,  which,  in  deep  snow, 
prevents  the  staff  from  sinking  in  too 
far  and  gives  the  necessary  leverage 
for  steering,  propelling  or  righting 
oneself  as  needed. 

The  staff  is  made  of  a  piece  of  bam- 
boo pole,  IVt  or  li/i>  in.  in  diameter, 
and  iy^  ft.  long.  The  leather  for  the 
loop  can  be  made  from  an  old  strap, 
shaved  down  thinner  and  cut  to  a 
width  of  about  VL'  in-  The  stop  is  a 
disk  of  wood,  i,4  in.  thick  and  5  in.  in 
diameter.  This  material  should  be 
well-seasoned  white  pine  or  spruce  and 


coated  with  shellac.  A  hole  is  bored 
through  the  center  of  the  disk  to  let 
it  pass  upward  on  the  staff  about  G 
in.       Here    it    is    fastened    with    two 


FiG.l  Fis.2  Fig. 3 

The  Staff,  being  Made  of  a  Bamboo  Pole, 
is  Strong  as  Well  as  Light 

pieces  of  heavy  wire,  A  and  B,  Fig. 
2.  In  this  diagram,  C  is  the  staff,  and 
D,  the  stop  or  disk.  The  wire  A  passes 
through  the  staff  below  the  wire  B  and 
at  right  angles  to  it,  wherefore  the 
wire  B  must  be  bent  as  shown.  Both 
wires  are  fastened  to  the  stop  with 
staples. 

The  lower  end  of  the  staff,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  o,  is  plugged  with  hard  wood, 
which  is  bored  part  way  through  its 
center  to  admit  a  wire  spike.  Slight 
recesses  are  made  in  the  sides  of  this 
hole  to  anchor  the  lead  which  is 
poured  in  around  the  spike.  The  point 
of  the  latter  is  sharpened  and  then  the 
bamboo  wound  with  waxed  twine,  or 
fine  wire,  to  prevent  its  splitting. 


CFine  emery  cloth,  glued  to  both  sides 
of  a  piece  of  bristol  board,  makes  a 
handy  tool  for  cleaning  the  platinum 
points  of  a  vibrator. 


52 


A    Game    Played   on   the   Ice 

A  novel  and  interesting  winter  game 
for  young  and  old,  described  as  a 
novelty  by  a  Swedish  paper,  is  played 
as  follows : 

Two  poles  of  convenient  height  are 
erected    on    the    ice ;    if   skating    on    a 


A  Player  in  Action  Ready  to  Spear  a  Ring  that 
Hangs  on  the  Line  between  the  Poles 

shallow  pond  they  may  be  driven 
through  the  ice  and  into  the  ground, 
but  if  the  water  is  deep,  holes  must  be 
bored  through  the  ice  and  the  poles 
will  soon  freeze  solidly  in  them.  A 
rope  is  stretched  between  the  poles  at 
such  a  height  as  is  suited  to  the  size 
of  the  players,  or  as  agreed  on  to  make 
the  game  more  or  less  difficult,  and  on 
this  are  strung  a  number  of  pieces  of 
board,  A,  each  having  a  ring  of  spring 
steel,  B,  attached  to  its  lower  end.  The 
purpose  of  the  game  is  to  run  at  good 
speed  between  the  poles  and  catch  a 
ring  on  a  spear,  each  player  being  en- 
titled to  make  a  certain  number  of 
runs,  and  the  winner  being  the  one 
who  can  catch  the  most  rings. 

The  spears  may  be  made  of  broom 
handles  tapered  toward  one  end,  and 
with  a  shield  made  of  tin  and  attached 
at  a  suitable  distance  from  the  thicker 
end  (Pattern  C).  The  line  is  fastened 
at  the  top  of  one  pole  and  run  through 
a  pulley,  D,  at  the  top  of  the  other, 
thence  to  a  weight  or  line  fastener. 
Each  player  should  start  from  the  same 
base  line  and  pass  between  the  poles  at 
such  a  speed  that  he  will  glide  at  least 
100  ft.  on  the  other  side  of  the  poles 
without  pushing  himself  forward  by 
the  aid  of  the  skates.  Twenty  runs  are 
usually  allowed  each  player,  or  10  play- 


ers may  divide  into  two  parties,  play- 
ing one  against  the  other,  etc.  An  um- 
pire will  be  needed  to  see  that  fair 
play  is  maintained  and  settle  any  dis- 
putes that  may  arise. 


An   Electric    Display  for   a    Show 
Window 

A  novel  window  display  that  is  very 
attractive,  yet  simple  in  construction 
and  operation,  can  be  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  First,  make  a  small 
watertight  chamber.  A,  as  long  as  the 
focal  length  of  the  lens  to  be  used,  and 
having  a  glass  window,  B,  at  one  end, 
and  a  small  round  opening,  C.  at  the 
other.  In  this  opening  is  placed  a  cork 
through  which  a  glass  tube  about  2  in. 
long  is  inserted.  The  tube  makes  a 
smooth  passage  for  the  stream  of  water 
flowing  out  of  the  box.  Water  from 
any  source  of  supply  enters  the 
chamber  through  the  tube  D,  which 
may  be  a  pipe  or  hose,  whichever  is 
most  convenient.  The  interior  is 
painted  a  dull  black. 

A  convenient  and  compact  light  is 
placed  at  the  window  end  of  the  box. 
A  very  good  light  can  be  made  by  plac- 
ing an  electric  light  with  a  reflector  in 
a  closed  box  and  fastening  a  biconvex 
lens,  F,  in  the  side  facing  the  window 
of  the  water  box.  When  the  electric 
light  and  the  water  are  turned  on,  the 
light  is  focused  at  the  point  where  the 
water  is  issuing  from  the  box,  and  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  stream  of  water, 
illuminating  it  in  a  pleasing  manner. 


The  Arrangement  of  the  Boxes  Showing  the  Path 
of  the  Light  Rays  through  the  >A/ater 

A  Still  Ijetter  effect  can  be  obtained 
by  passing  colored  plates  between  the 
lens  F  and  the  window  B.  A  glass 
disk  with  sectors  of  different  colors 
may    be    revolved    by    any    source    of 


53 


power,  such  as  a  small  electric  motor 
or  even  a  waterwheel  turned  by  the 
flowing  water. 

Two  or  three  streams  of  water  flow- 
ing in  different  colors  make  a  very- 
pretty  display  and  may  be  produced 
by  using  two  or  more  boxes  made 
up  in  the  same  manner.  The  appa- 
ratus should  be  concealed  and  nothing 
but  the  box  end  or  tube  with  the  flow- 
ing water  shown. — Contributed  by 
Grant  Linton,  Whitby,  Ont. 


Strainer  for  a  Milk  Pail 

Even  though  a  milker  may  be  care- 
ful, small  particles  of  dirt,  hairs,  etc., 
will  fall  into  the 
milk  pail.  It  is 
true  that  the 
^  milk  is  strained 
afterward,  but  a 
large  percentage 
of  the  dirt  dis- 
solves and  passes 
through  the 
strainer  along 
with  the  milk. 
The  best  plan  to  prevent  this  dirt  from 
falling  into  the  milk  is  to  put  a  piece 
of  cheesecloth  over  the  pail  opening, 
securing  it  there  by  slipping  an  open 
wire  ring.  A,  over  the  rim.  The  milk 
will  readily  pass  through  the  cloth 
without  spattering. — Contributed  by 
W.  A.  Jaquythe,  Richmond,  Cal. 


Baking  Bread  in  Hot  Sand 

A  driving  crew  on  the  river  wanted 
to  move  camp,  but  the  cook  objected 
as  he  had  started  to  bake.  One  of  the 
party  suggested  using  a  modified  form 
of  the  method  of  baking  in  vogue  more 
than  a  century  ago,  which  was  to  place 
the  dough  in  the  hot  earth  where  a 
fire  had  been  burning.  So,  to  help 
the  cook  out,  a  barrel  was  sawed  in 
half  and  the  bread,  after  being  properly 
protected,  was  placed  in  each  half  bar- 
rel and  covered  with  hot  sand.  Two  of 
the  men  carried  the  half  barrels  on 
their  backs.  When  the  new  camp  was 
reached  the  bread  was  done. — Contrib- 
uted by  F.  B.  Ripley,  Eau  Claire,  Wis. 


How  to  Make  Small  Cams 

In  making  models  of  machinery  or 
toy  machines,  cams  are  very  often  re- 
quired.   A  simple  way  of  making  these 


Channels  of  the  Cams  Formed  with  Strips  of  Brass 
Soldered  to  the  Drum  or  Disk 

is  to  lay  out  the  fam  plate,  or  drum, 
and  then  bend  pieces  of  brass  to  the 
correct  shape  and  solder  them  in  place, 
whereupon  they  may  be  smoothed  up 
with  a  file  or  scraper.  A  cam  of  this 
sort  on  a  drum  is  shown  in  the  sketch 
at  A,  and  on  a  faceplate,  at  B.  The 
method  is  not  quite  as  accurate  as  mill- 
ing, but  answers  the  purpose  in  most 
cases. — Contributed  by  Chas.  Hatten- 
berger,  Buiifalo,  N.  Y. 


Display    Holder   for    Coins 

If  the  luster  of  coins  fresh  from  the 
mint  is  to  be  preserved,  they  must  be 
immediately  placed  so  as  to  be  pro- 
tected against  contact  with  the  hands. 
A  good  holder  that  will  display  both 
sides  of  a  coin  can  be  made  of  two 
pieces  of  glass,  BE,  between  which  is 
placed  a  cardboard  cut  as  shown  at  A. 
The  cardboard  should  be  about  the 
same  thickness  as  the  coins.  The 
glass  may  be  framed  by  using  strips 


Two  Pieces  of  Glass  Inclosing  betw/een  Them  Coins 
of  the  Same  Size  and  Thickness 

of  wood  rabbeted  to  receive  the  edges 
of  both  pieces ;  or  their  edges  may  be 
bound  with  passe-partout  tape.  Even 
when  a  frame  is  used,  it  is  best  to  bind 


54 


the  edges  as  this  will  prevent  tarnish 
from  the  air.  Old  negative  glass  is 
suitable  for  making  the  holder. — Con- 
tributed by  R.  B.  Cole,  New  Haven, 
Conn. 


Holder  for  Skates  while  Sharpening 

The  base  of  the  holder  is  cut  from 
a  board  and  should  be  about  3  in. 
longer   than    the   skate.     Two   clamps 


The  Holder  Provides  a  'Way  to  Grind  a  Slight  Curve 
in   the   Edge  of  a  Skate   Blade 

are  cut  as  shown  at  A,  from  metal  of 
sufficient  thickness  to  hold  the  skate 
firmly,  then  bent  to  shape  and  attached 
to  the  baseboard  with  bolts  having 
wing  nuts,  as  shown  at  B  and  C. 

One  edge  of  the  board  is  provided 
with  two  pins,  D  and  E,  solidly  fas- 
tened, which  are  of  sufficient  height 
to  bring  the  center  of  the  blade  on  a 
level  with  the  grinder  axle.  An  adjust- 
ing screw,  F,  is  provided  for  the 
grinder  base  to  adjust  the  skate  blade 
accurately.  The  support  G  is  for  use 
on  baseboards  where  skates  with  strap 
heels,  H,  are  to  be  sharpened.  The 
shape  of  the  clamp  for  this  support  is 
shown  at  J. 

When  the  skate  is  securely  clamped 
to  the  base  the  blade  can  be  easily 
"hollow  ground"  or  given  a  slight 
curve  on  the  edge. — Contributed  by  C. 
G.  Smith,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


A  Homemade  Direct-View  Finder 
for  Cameras 

Every  hand  camera  and  most  of  the 
tripod  cameras  are  equipped  with  find- 
ers of  one  type  or  another,  and  usually 
one  in  which  the  image  of  the  field  is 
reflected   upward   on    a   small    ground 


glass — being,  in  fact,  a  miniature 
camera  obscura.  The  later  and  gen- 
erally more  approved  style  of  finder 
has  a  small  concave  lens  conveniently 
set  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  camera. 
When  this  direct-vision  type  of  finder 
is  used,  the  camera  is  held  so  that  the 
finder  is  at  the  height  of  the  eye, 
a  condition  that  is  particularly  de- 
sirable. When  in  a  crowd,  of  course, 
the  professional  and  many  amateurs 
are  familiar  with  the  method  of  hold- 
ing the  camera  inverted  over  the  head 
and  looking  up  into  the  finder  to  deter- 
mine the  range  of  the  field.  Even 
this  method  is  inconvenient,  often  im- 
practical. 

The  up-to-date  newspaper  photog- 
rapher insists  on  having  his  camera 
equipped  with  direct  finders,  as  it 
saves  him  much  trouble  and  many  fail- 
ures. Anyone  with  a  little  ingenuity 
can  change  one  of  the  old-type  finders 
into  a  combination  device,  either  di- 
rect or  indirect.  The  sketches  are  self- 
explanatory,  but  it  may  be  said  that 
Fig.  1  represents  a  box  camera  with 
a  regulation  finder  set  in  one  corner  of 
the  box.  To  make  it  a  direct  finder,  a 
small  brass  hinge  is  used.  Cut  ofif  part 
of  one  wing,  leaving  a  stub  just  long 


Two   Types   of  Ordinary   View   Finders   and  Methods 
of  Converting  Them  into   Direct-View   Finders 

enough  to  be  attached  to  the  front  of 
the  camera  directly  above  the  lens  of 
the  finder  and  so  as  not  to  interfere 
with  it,  and  high  enough  to  permit  the 
other  wing  to  be  turned  down  on  the 
ground  glass,  with  space  allowed  for 
the  thin  glass  mirror  A,  that  is  to  be 
glued  to  the  under  side  of  the  long 
wing.  The  joint  of  the  hinge  should 
work  quite  stiffly  in  order  to  keep  it 
from  jarring  out  of  any  position  in 
which  it  may  be  set. 


55 


If  the  wing  is  turned  upward  at  an 
angle  of  45  deg.,  the  finder  can  be  used 
as  a  direct-vision  instrument  when  held 
at  the  height  of  the  eyes.  The  image 
reflected  from  the  small  mirror  is  in- 
verted, but  this  is  no  disadvantage  to 
the  photographer.  The  small  pocket 
mirror  given  out  for  advertising  pur- 
poses serves  very  well  for  making  the 
reflecting  mirror. 

The  finder  shown  in  Fig.  2  is  another 
very  common  kind,  and  one  that  is 
readily  converted  into  the  direct  type 
by  inserting  a  close-fitting  mirror,  B, 
on  the  inside  of  the  shield  to  be  used 
as  a  reflector  of  the  finder  image.  If 
the  mirror  is  too  thick,  it  may  inter- 
fere with  the  closing  of  the  shield, 
though  in  many  cases  this  is  not  es- 
sential, but  if  it  should  be  necessary 
to  close  down  the  shield  in  order  to 
fold  the  camera,  it  can  usually  be  read- 
iusted  to  accommodate  the  mirror. 


A  Non-Rolling  Spool 

Bend  a  piece  of  wire  in  the  shape 
shown  in  the  illustration  and  attach  it 
to  a  spool  of  thread.  The  ends  of  the 
wire  should 
clamp  the  spool 
slightly  and  the 
loop  in  the  wire 
will  keep  it  from 
rolling.  Place 
the  end  of  the  thread  through  the  loop 
in  the  wire  and  it  will  not  become 
tangled. — Contributed  by  J.  V.  Loef- 
fler.  Evansville,  Ind. 


How  to  Make  a  Cartridge  Belt 

Procure  a  leather  belt,  about  2% 
in.  wide  and  long  enough  to  reach 
about  the  waist,  also  a  piece  of  leather, 
1  in.  wide  and  twice  as  long  as  the 
belt.  Attach  a  buckle  to  one  end  of 
the  belt  and  rivet  one  end  of  the  nar- 
row piece  to  the  belt  near  the  buckle. 
Cut  two  slits  in  the  belt,  a  distance 
apart  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  car- 
tridge. Pass  the  narrow  leather  piece 
through  one  slit  and  back  through  the 
other,  thus  forming  a  loop  on  the  belt 
to   receive  a  cartridge.     About  1^4  in. 


from  the  first  loop  form  another  by 
cutting  two  more  slits  and  passing  the 
leather  through  them  as  described,  and 


Two  Pieces  of  Leather  of  Different  'Widths  Forming 
a  Belt  for  Holding  Cartridges 

so  on,  until  the  belt  has  loops  along  its 
whole  length. 

The  end  of  the  narrow  leather  can 
be  riveted  to  the  belt  or  used  in  the 
buckle  as  desired,  the  latter  way  pro- 
viding an  adjustment  for  cartridges  of 
different  sizes. — Contributed  by  Rob- 
ert  Pound,   Lavina,   Mont. 


Removing   Iodine  Stains 

A  good  way  to  chemically  remove 
iodine  stains  from  the  hands  or  linen  is 
to  wash  the  stains  in  a  strong  solution 
of  hyposulphite  of  sodium,  known  as 
"hypo,"  which  is  procurable  at  any 
photographic-supply  dealer's  or  drug 
store. 

There  is  no  danger  of  using  too 
strong  a  solution,  but  the  best  results 
are  obtained  with  a  mixture  of  1  oz. 
of  hypo  to  2  oz.  of  water. 


Bed-Cover  Fasteners 

The  arrangement  shown  in  the 
sketch  is  easily  made  and  will  keep  the 
bed  covers  in  place.  The  covers  are 
provided  with  eyelets,  either  sewed,  A, 
or  brass  eyelets,  B,  6  or  8  in.  apart 
along  the  edge.  A  wood  strip,  C,  3 
by  li/o  in.,  is  cut  as  long  as  the  width 
of  the  bed  and  fastened  to  the  frame 
with  wire,  bolts,  or  wedges.  Screw- 
hooks,  about  114  in.  long,  are  turned 
into  the  strip  so  that  they  will  match 
with  the  eyelets  placed  in  the  covers. 
Thus  the  covers  will  be  kept  in  place 


The  Hooks  Prevent  the  Covers  from  Slipping  Off  the 
Sleeper  and  Keep  Them  Straight  on  the  Bed 

when  the  bed  is  occupied,  and  the  bed 
is  also  easily  made  up. — Contributed 
by  Warren  E.  Crane,  Cleveland,  O. 


56 


Collar  Fasteners 

An  excellent  fastener  to  be  used  on 
soft  collars  can  be  assembled  from 
an  ordinary 
paper  fastener 
and  two  shoe 
buttons  of  the 
desired  color. 
This  device 
keeps  the  soft 
collar  in  good 
shape  at  the 
front,  and  serves 
the  purpose  just 
as  well  as  a  more 
expensive  collar 
fastener.  The  il- 
lustration shows 
how  it  is  used. — 
Contributed  by 
B.  E.  Ahlport,  Oakland,  Cal. 


Operating  a  Bathroom  Light 
Automatically 

A  device  for  automatically  turning 
an  electric  light  on  and  off  when  enter- 
ing and  leaving  the  room  is  illustrated 
in  the  sketch.  A  pull-chain  lamp 
socket  is  placed  upon  the  wall  or  ceil- 
ing, and  is  connected  to  a  screw  hook 
in  the  door  by  a  cord  and  several  rub- 
ber bands,  as  shown. 

When  the  door  is  opened,  the  lamp  is 
lit,  and  when  leaving  the  room  the 
opening  of  the  door  again  turns  it  out. 
The  hook  should  be  placed  quite  close 
to  the  edge  of  the  door,  to  reduce  the 


,- — -1^^^ 

w 

Operating  the  Electric  Lamp  Switch  or  Key  by  the 
Opening  of  the  Door 

length  of  the  movement,  and  even  then 
it  is  too  much  for  the  length  of  the  pull 
required  to  operate  the  switch,  hence 
the  need  of  the  rubber  bands. 


The  lamp  chain  pulls  out  just  1  in., 
and  consequently  the  lamp  is  lit  when 
the  door  is  opened  part  way ;  and 
swinging  the  door  farther  only  stretch- 
es the  rubber.  This  is  an  advantage, 
however,  because  the  lamp  is  sure  to 
light  regardless  of  the  swing  of  the 
door.  If  no  rubber  were  used,  the  door 
would  have  to  open  just  a  certain  dis- 
tance each  time. 

If  the  cord  is  connected  to  the  hook 
with  a  loop  or  a  ring,  it  may  be  easily 
disconnected  during  the  day  when  not 
needed.  A  light  coil  spring  may  be 
used  in  place  of  the  rubbers. — Contrib- 
uted by  C.  M.  Rogers,  Ann  Arbor, 
Michigan. 


A  Finger-Ring  Trick 

A  coin  soldered  to  some  inexpensive 
ring,  or  a  piece  of  brass  cut  from  tub- 
ing, will  make  an  interesting  surprise 
coin  for  friends. 
The  ring  when 
placed  on  the 
middle  finger 
with  the  coin  in 
the  palm  makes 
the  trick  com- 
plete. Ask  some  one  if  he  has  ever 
seen  such  a  coin,  or  say  it  is  a  very 
old  one,  as  the  date  is  almost  worn 
away.  He  will  try  to  pick  it  up,  but 
will  find  it  fast  to  the  finger. — Con- 
tributed by  Wm.  Jenkins,  New  York 
City. 


Preventing  Marks  from  Basting 
Threads  on  Wool 

In  making  up  woolen  garments  it  is 
necessary  to  press  portions  of  them 
before  removing  the  basting  threads. 
Sometimes  the  marks  of  the  basting 
threads  show  after  the  pressing.  This 
can  be  avoided  by  using  silk  thread  for 
basting  instead  of  the  usual  cotton 
thread.  The  silk  thread  will  not  leave 
any  marks. — Contributed  by  L.  Alberta 
Norrell,  Gainesville,  Ga. 


C Cranberries  will  keep  fresh  for  weeks 
if  placed  in  water  in  a  cool  place. 


57 


Skating  Merry-Go-Round 


By  henry  BURICH 


After  once  making  and  using  the 
ice  merry-go-round  as  illustrated,  no 
pond  will  be  complete  unless  it  has  one 
or  more  of  these  devices. 
To  construct  an  amuse- 
ment de\'ice  of  this  kind, 
select  a  good  pole  that  will 
reach  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pond.  The  measurement 
can  be  obtained  by  cutting 
a  hole  in  the  ice  at  the  de- 
sired place  and  dropping 
in  a  line  weighted  on  one 
end.  A  sufficient  length  of 
the  pole  should  be  driven 
into  the  bottom  of  the 
pond  to  make  it  solid  and 
allow  the  upper  end  to  pro- 
ject above  the  surface  of 
the  ice  at  least  4  feet. 

A  turning  crosspiece  for 
the  upper  end  of  the  pole 
is  made  as  follows :     First 
prepare  the  end  of  the  pole  by  sawing 
it  off  level,  then  cutting  off  the  bark 
and  making  it  round  for  a  metal  ring 
which  should  be  driven  on  tightly.     A 
pin,  about  ")4  in-  in  diameter,  is  then 
driven  into  a  hole  bored  in  the  end  of 
the  pole.  The  crosspiece  is  made  of  2  by 


6-in.  material,  at  least  18  ft.  long.  A 
hole  is  bored  in  the  center  to  receive 
the  pin  in  the  pole  end. 


Skaters  Holding  the  Rope  Ends  are  Drawn  Around  in  a  Circle 

Rapidly  by  the  Revolving  Crosspiece,  Turned  near  the 

Center  by  Other  Skaters 

The  crosspiece  is  easily  pushed 
around  the  pole  and  the  faster  it  goes 
the  closer  to  the  center  the  pushers 
can  travel.  Ropes  can  be  tied  to  the 
ends  of  the  crosspiece  for  the  skaters 
to  hold  on  to  as  they  are  propelled 
around  in  a  circle. 


Relieving  Air  Pressure  When  Closing 
Record  Boxes 

The  ordinary  pasteboard  boxes  for 
holding  phonograph  records  are  very 
hard  to  close,  due  to  the  air  pressure 
on  the  inside.  I  overcome  this  diffi- 
culty by  making  three  small  holes  in 
the  cover  with  a  pin. — Contributed  by 
Robert  Bandul,  New  Orleans,  La. 


A  Steering  Sled 

An  ordinary  hand  sled  can  be  easily 
converted  into  a  sled  that  can  be 
guided  like  a  bobsled  by  the  addition 
of  one  extra  runner.  To  attach  this 
runner,  a  piece  of  wood  is  fastened  to 
the  under  side  and  in  the  center  at  the 


front  end  of  the  sled  top.  A  runner 
with  a  crosspiece  on  top  is  pivoted  to 
the  extending  wood  piece,  which 
should  be  of  a  length  to  make  the  po- 
sition comfortable  when  the  coaster, 
sitting  on  the  sled  top,  has  his  feet  on 
the    ends    of    the    crosspiece.     Careful 


The  Extra  Runner  in  Front  is  Pivoted,  and  When 
Turned,  Guides  the  Sled 

measurements  should  be  made  to  have 
the  lower  edge  of  the  runner  on  a  level 
with  or  a  little  lower  than  the  sled  run- 
ners. 


58 


To  Hold  a  Straw  Hat  on  the  Head  Drying  Small  Laundered  Articles 


On  windy  days  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible to  make  a  straw  hat  stay  on  the 
head.     To    avoid    this    trouble,    place 


Rubber    Bands    are   Linked  Like  a  Lock  Stitch 
and  Fastened  in  the  Band 

rubber  bands  through  the  sweatband. 
Before  inserting,  make  them  into  loops, 
as  shown,  and  draw  enough  to  be  com- 
fortable to  the  head.  This  device  will 
save  a  good  many  steps  when  the  wind 
blows. — Contributed  by  T.  D.  Hall, 
Fort  Worth,  Texas. 


Carrying  Fishhooks  in  a  Cane  Pole 

The  person  using  a  cane  pole  for  fish- 
ing can  easily  provide  a  place  for  the 
hooks  and  sinkers  in  the  first  large 
joint  of  the  pole.  Cut  the  cane  ofif  just 
above  the  first  large  joint,  and  it  will 
leave  a  space,  4  or  5  in.  long,  which 
can  be  used  for  the  hooks  and  sinkers. 
A  cork  is  fitted  in  the  end,  to  hold  them 
in  place. — Contributed  by  Victor  E. 
Carpenter,  South  Bend,  Ind. 


Where  mechanical  drying  is  not  in 
use  it  takes  consideraljle  time  to  hang 
out  a  number  of  handkerchiefs,  laces, 
collars,  etc.,  and  very  often  the  wind 
will  blow  away  many  of  them.  The 
task  of  drying  these  articles  is  made 
light  by  using  a  bag  of  mosquito  net- 
ting with  the  articles  placed  in  it  and 
hung  on  a  line.  The  air  can  pass 
through  the  netting  and  when  the 
articles  are  dry  it  does  not  take  long 
to  take  them  out. — Contributed  by 
Edward  P.  Braun,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Decorative  Wood  Panels 

Procure  an  unplaned  board  that  is 
deeply  scored  by  the  teeth  of  the  saw 
and  mark  an  outline  of  the  desired  fig- 
ure on  its  surface.  Sandpaper  the 
background  lightly,  cut  in  a  moon  and 
smooth  down  the  tree  trunks.  The 
background  can  be  smoothed  with  a 
sharp  chisel,  or  large  portions  planed, 
but  in  all  cases  leave  the  foliage  rough. 

Finish  the  surfaces  with  oils  or 
stains,  applying  colors  to  suit  the  parts ; 
a  piece  of  dried  red  cedar,  oiled,  will 
produce  a  warm  red,  and  a  green  red 
cedar,  oiled,  becomes  soft  yellow,  each 
producing  a  very  pretty  effect.  These 
panels  offer  unlimited  opportunity  for 
originality  in  design  and  color  finishing 
of  different  woods. — Contributed  by 
Mrs.  Wm.  Donovan,  Seattle,  Wash. 


The  Designs  are  Worked  into  the  Unfinished  Surface  of  Boards  with  Sandpaper,  Sharp  Chisels  and  a  Plane, 
and  Then  Colored  with  Dyes  to  Produce  the  Desired  Effect 


Fishing-Rod  Making  and  Angling 


By  STILLMAN  TAYLOR 


PART  I  —  A  One-Piece  Casting  Rod 


'  I '  HE  pleasures  of  outdoor  life  are 
-■•  most  keenly  enjoyed  by  those 
sportsmen  who  are  familiar  with  all  the 
little  tricks — the  "ins  and  outs" — of  the 
open.  It  is  the  active  participation  in 
any  chosen  sport  which  makes  the 
sport  well  worth  while,  for  the  enjoy- 
ment gleaned  from  little  journeys  to 
forest  and  stream  largely  rests  with 
the  outer's  own  knowledge  of  his  sport. 
Not  all  of  the  fun  of  fishing  lies  in  the 
catching  of  the  fish,  since  the  satisfac- 
tion which  comes  through  handling  a 
well-balanced  rod  and  tackle  must  be 
reckoned  the  chief  contributor  to  the 
outing.  In  other  words,  the  pleasures 
of  fishing  do  not  depend  so  much  upon 
the  number  of  fish  caught,  as  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  person  fishes  for  them. 
The  rod  is  naturally  the  first  and  im- 
portant consideration  in  the  angler's 
kit,  and  it  is  the  purpose  of  these  ar- 
ticles to  set  forth,  at  first,  a  few  hints 
which  my  own  long  experience  leads 
me  to  think  may  be  of  some  assistance 
to  those  anglers  who  enjoy  making  and 
repairing  their  own  rods  and  tackle, 
to  be  followed,  later,  by  some  sugges- 
tions on  the  art  of  angling  generally. 
The  hints  given  are  merely  my  own 
methods,  and  while  they  may  not  be 
the  best  way  of  accomplishing  the  de- 
sired end,  a  good  fishing  rod  may  be 
constructed.  Like  the  majority  of  ama- 
teurs, I  have  achieved  the  desired  re- 
sults with  a  few  common  tools,  namely, 
a  saw,  plane,  jackknife,  file,  and  sand- 
paper. These  simple  tools  are  really 
all  that  is  needed  to  turn  out  a  sen-ice- 
able  and  well-finished  rod  of  excellent 
action. 

Kind  of  Material 
The  great  elasticity  and  durability 
of  the  split-cane  or  split-bamboo  rod 
cannot  be  easily  disputed.  The  hand- 
made split  bamboo  is  unquestionably 
the  best  rod  for  every  kind  of  fishing, 
but  it  is  also  the  most  expensive  and 
the  most  difficult  material  for  the  ama- 
teur to  work.  In  making  the  first  rod 
or  two,  the  beginner  will  be  better  sat- 


isfied with  the  results  in  making  a 
good  solid-wood  rod.  Of  course, 
glued-up  split-bamboo  butts,  joints, 
and  tip  stock  may  be  purchased,  and 
if  the  angler  is  determined  to  have  only 
bamboo,  it  is  advisable  to  purchase 
these  built-up  sections  rather  than  to 
risk  certain  failure  by  attempting  to 
glue  the  cane.  However,  there  are  sev- 
eral good  woods  particularly  well 
adapted  for  rod  making,  and  while 
slightly  inferior  to  the  finest  bamboo 
in  elasticity  and  spring,  the  carefully 
made  solid-wood  rod  is  good  enough 
for  any  angler  and  will  probably  suit 
the  average  fisherman  as  well  as  any 
rod  that  can  be  purchased. 

Bethabara,  or  washaba,  a  native 
wood  of  British  Guinea,  makes  a  fine 
rod,  but  it  is  a  heavy  wood,  very  hard, 
and  for  this  reason  is  perhaps  less  de- 
sirable than  all  other  woods.  With  the 
single  exception  of  snakewood  it  is  the 
heaviest  wood  for  rod  making  and  is 
only  used  for  short  bait-casting  rods. 
Possessing  considerable  strength  Beth- 
abara can  be  worked  quite  slender,  and 
a  5-ft.  casting  tip  can  be  safely  made 
of  5  oz.  weight. 

Greenheart,  a  South  American  wood, 
is  popular  alike  with  manufacturers 
and  amateur  rod  makers,  and  90  per 
cent  of  the  better  class  of  solid-wood 
rods  are  made  of  this  material.  It  re- 
sembles Bethabara  in  color,  but  is 
lighter  in  weight,  although  it  appar- 
ently possesses  about  the  same 
strength  and  elasticity.  In  point  of 
fact,  there  is  little,  if  any,  choice  be- 
tween these  woods,  and  providing 
sound  and  well-selected  wood  is  used, 
the  merits  of  a  rod  made  of  Bethabara 
or  greenheart  are  more  likely  to  be  due 
to  the  careful  workmanship  of  the 
maker  than  to  the  variety  of  the  wood 
used. 

Dagame,  or  dagama,  a  native  of  the 
forests  of  Cuba,  is  in  many  respects  the 
ideal  material  for  rod  making,  as  it 
has  strength  and  elasticity.  This 
wood  is  straight-grained  and  free  from 


59 


60 


knots,  which  makes  it  easily  worked ; 
it  polishes  well  and  is  durable.  While 
there  is  always  more  or  less  difficulty 
about  procuring  tirst-class   Bethabara 


Two  Tools  for  Gauging  the  Diameter  of  the  Rods, 
and  a  Homemade  Scraper 

and  greenheart,  dagame  of  good  qual- 
ity is  easily  obtained. 

Lance  wood  is  much  used  in  turning 
out  the  cheaper  grades  of  fishing  rods, 
but  it  is  somewhat  soft  and  has  a 
marked  tendency  to  take  set  under  the 
strain  of  fishing  and  warp  out  of  shape. 
It  is  less  expensive  than  the  other 
woods,  and  while  it  has  a  straight  and 
even  grain,  there  are  numerous  small 
knots  present  which  make  this  ma- 
terial less  satisfactory  to  work  than 
the  other  woods.  For  heavy  sea  rods, 
lancewood  may  serve  the  purpose  fairly 
well,  but  for  the  smaller  fishing  tools 
this  material  is  inferior  to  Bethabara, 
greenheart,  and  dagame.  Other  woods 
are  often  used,  and  while  a  good  rod 
may  be  frequently  made  from  almost 
any  of  them,  the  three  mentioned  are 
held  in  the  highest  esteem  by  the 
angling  fraternity.  For  the  first  rod, 
the  amateur  will  make  no  mistake  in 
selecting  dagame,  whether  the  slender 
fly  rod  or  the  more  easily  constructed 
short  bait-casting  tool  is  to'  be  made. 

The  Necessary  Tools 

The  construction  of  a  thoroughly 
well-made  and  nicely  balanced  rod  is 
more  a  matter  of  careful  work  than 
outfit,  but  a  few  suitable  tools  will 
greatly  facilitate  the  labor.  A  good 
firm  workbench,  or  table,  4  ft.  or  more 
in  length,  will  be  needed.  A  regulation 
bench  vise  will  come  in  handy,  but  one 
of  the  small  iron  vises  will  do  very 
well.  A  couple  of  iron  planes,  one  of 
medium  size  for  rough  planing-up 
work,  and  a  small  4-in.  block  plane  for 
finishing,  will  be  required.    As  the  cut- 


ters of  the  planes  must  be  kept  as  sharp 
as  possible  to  do  good  work,  a  small 
oilstone — preferably  one  in  a  wood 
case  with  cover  to  keep  out  dust — will 
be  needed ;  a  coarse  single-cut  mill  file 
about  16  in.  long;  a  few  sheets  of  No. 
1  and  No.  0  sandpaper ;  a  sheet  or  two 
of  fine  emery  cloth  ;  a  small  thin  "back" 
or  other  saw,  and  a  steel  cabinet 
scraper. 

A  caliper  of  some  kind  is  a  necessity, 
and  while  the  best  is  a  micrometer, 
Fig.  1,  registering  to  a  thousandth  part 
of  an  inch,  as  well  as  indicating  Sths, 
IGths,  32ds,  and  G4ths,  this  tool  is  some- 
what expensive,  but  a  very  good  cali- 
per may  be  had  in  the  sliding-arm  type. 
Fig.  2,  with  the  scale  graduated  to  64ths 
and  taking  work  up  to  2  in.  in  diameter. 
Cheaper  measuring  gauges  are  to  be 
had  in  plenty,  but  as  the  brass  and 
boxwood  scales  are  provided  only  with 
coarse  graduations,  the  better  quality 
of  mechanics'  tools  will  give  better  sat- 
isfaction. 

The  set  of  grooved  planes  used  by 
the  professional  rod  makers  are  rather 
expensive,  although  they  are  most  con- 
venient for  quickl}-  rounding  up  the  rod 
to  the  desired  diameter.  However,  the 
beginner  may  dispense  with  the  planes 
by  making  the  tool  illustrated  in  Fig. 
3.  To  make  this  handy  little  tool  pur- 
chase a  steel  wood  scraper,  such  as 
cabinetmakers  use,  and  file  a  series  of 
grooves  along  the  edges  with  a  round 
file.  File  at  right  angles  to  the  steel, 
finishing  up  with  a  finer  file  to  give  a 
sharp  cutting 
edge.  The  tool 
thus  made  is 
very  handy  for 
scraping  the  rod 
F,G.4  after  it  has  been 

roughly  rounded 
with  the  plane.  Its  use  will  be  men- 
tioned later  on  in  the  description. 

Five-Foot  Bait-Casting  Rod 

The  short  one-piece  bait-casting  rod 
with  but  one  ferrule  is  the  easiest  rod 
to  make,  and  for  this  reason  the  be- 
ginner will  do  well  to  select  this  popu- 
lar type  for  the  first  attempt.  As  the 
total  length  of  the  rod  is  to  measure 


61 

5   ft.,   exclusive   of   the   agate   tip,   the  grasp  distance  by  running  a  knife  mark 

wood  should  be  1   or  2  in.  longer  to  around  the  rod  13  in.  from  the  butt  end. 

allow  for  cutting  down  to  60  inches.  Lay  out  a  diagram  showing  the  full 

Having    selected    a    good    strip    of  length  of  the  rod  by  placing  a  strip  of 


60" 


BUTT 


il" 


Diagram  or  Layout  for  a  One-Piece  Bait-Casting  Rod.  Showing  Calipered   Dimensions   for   Each    Six    Inches 

of  Length.     A  Paper  Pattern  of  Any  Rod  may  be  Drawn  Up,  Providing  the  Amateur   Rod   Maker 

Has  a  Rod  to  Use  for  a  Pattern,  or  Possesses  the  Exact  Diameter  of  the  Rod  at 

Intervals  of  Six  Inches  along  Its  Length 


dagame,  %  in.  square,  run  the  plane 
along  each  side  and  from  both  ends. 
This  will  determine  the  direction  in 
which  the  grain  runs.  Drill  two  holes 
at  the  end  decided  upon  for  the  butt, 
spacing  them  about  i/4  in.  from  the 
end,  as  shown  in  Fig,  -i.  Drive  a  stout 
brad  in  the  corner  of  the  bench  top 
and  hook  the  butt  end  over  the  nail. 
By  rigging  the  stick  up  in  this  manner 
it  will  be  securely  held,  and  planing 
may  be  done  with  the  grain  with 
greater  ease  and  accuracy  than  when 
the  end  of  the  stick  is  butted  up  against 
a  cleat  nailed  to  the  bench  top. 

The  wood  should  be  planed  straight 
and  true  from  end  to  end  and  calipered 
until  it  is  ^o  in.  square.  It  may  ap- 
pear crooked,  but  this  need  not  trouble 
one  at  this  stage  of  the  work,  since  it 
may  be  made  perfectly  straight  later 
on.  Overlook  any  kinks,  and  do  not 
attempt  to  straighten  the  stick  by 
planing  more  from  one  side  than  the 
other.  The  chief  thing  to  be  done  is 
to  fashion  a  square  stick,  and  when  the 
caliper  shows  the  approximate  diame- 
ter, draw  crosslines  at  the  ends  to  find 
the  center. 

The  length  of  the  hand  grasp  should 
be  marked  out.  If  a  double  grasp  is 
wanted,  allow  13  in.  from  the  butt  end. 
This  will  afford  an  11-in.  hand  grasp 
after  sawing  off  the  end  in  which  the 
holes  were  drilled.  For  a  single  hand 
grasp  make  an  allowance  of  11  in. 
However,  the  douljle  grasp— ^with  cork 
above  and  below  the  reel  seat — is  pre- 
ferred by  most  anglers  because  it  af- 
fords a  better  grip  for  the  hand  when 
reeling  in  the  line,     Mark  the  hand- 


paper — the  unprinted  back  of  a  strip 
of  wall  paper  is  just  the  thing — on  the 
bench  and  drawing  two  lines  from  the 
diameter  of  the  butt  to  that  of  the  tip. 
While  the  caliber  of  casting  rods  dif- 
fers somewhat,  the  dimensions  given 
will  suit  the  average  angler,  and  I 
would  advise  the  beginner  to  make 
the  rod  to  these  measurements.  For 
the  butt,  draw  a  line,  exactly  1/2  in- 
long,  across  the  paper  and  from  the 
center  of  this  line  run  a  straight  pencil 
mark  at  right  angles  to  the  tip  end,  or 
60  in,  distant,  at  which  point  another 
crossline  is  drawn,  exactly  i/g  in,  long, 
to  represent  the  diameter.  Connect 
the  ends  of  these  two  crosslines  to 
make  a  long  tapering  form.  Divide 
this  pattern  into  eight  equal  parts,  be- 
ginning at  13  in.  from  the  butt  end, 
marking  a  crossline  at  every  6  in. 
This  layout  is  shown  exaggerated  in 
Fig.  5,  If  it  is  desired  to  copy  a  cer- 
tain rod,  find  the  diameter  at  the  sev- 
eral 6-in,  stations  with  the  caliper  and 
write  them  down  at  the  corresponding 
sections  of  the  paper  diagram.  How- 
ever,  if  a  splendid   all-around  casting 


JUITUTJUi^^J^ 


Fio.6 
Gauge  Made  of  Sheet  Brass  Having  Slots  Corre- 
sponding in  Length  and  Width  with  the 
Caliper-Layout  Measurements 

rod  is  desired,  it  is  .perfectly  safe  to 
follow  the  dimensions  given  in  Fig.  5, 
which  show  the  manner  of  dividing 
the  paper  pattern  into  the  equal  parts 
and  the  final  diameter  of  the  rod  at 
each  6-in,  station,  or  line. 


62 


Procure  a  small  strip  of  thin  brass, 
or  zinc,  and  file  nine  slots  on  one  edge 
to  correspond  in  diameter  with  the 
width  of  the  horizontal  lines  which  in- 
dicate the  diameter  of  the  rod  on  the 
pattern.  This  piece  is  shown  in  Fig. 
6.  By  making  use  of  the  pattern  and 
the  brass  gauge,  the  rod  may  be  given 
the  desired  taper  and  the  work  will 
proceed  more  quickly  than  if  the  cali- 
per is  alone  relied  upon  to  repeatedly 
check  up  the  work. 

When  a  good  layout  of  the  work  is 
thus  made,  the  next  step  is  to  carefully 
plane  the  stick  so  that  it  will  be  evenly 
tapered  in  the  square.  Plane  with  the 
grain  and  from  the  butt  toward  the 
tip  end,  and  make  frequent  tests  with 
caliper  and  gauge,  noting  the  diameter 
every  6  in.  Mark  all  the  thick  spots 
with  a  pencil,  and  plane  lightly  to  re- 
duce the  wood  to  the  proper  diameter. 
Reduce  the  stick  in  this  manner  until 
all  sides  have  an  even  taper  from  the 
butt  to  the  tip.  The  stick  should  now 
be  perfectly  square  with  a  nice,  even 
taper.  Test  it  by  resting  the  tip  end 
on  the  floor  and  bending  it  from  the 
butt  end.  Note  the  arch  it  takes  and 
see  if  it  resumes  its  original  shape 
when  the  pressure  is  released.  If  it 
does,  the  elasticity  of  the  material  is 
as  it  should  be,  but  if  it  remains  bent 
or  takes  "set,"  the  wood  is  very  likely 
to  be  imperfectly  seasoned  and  the  rod 
should  be  hung  up  in  a  warm  closet,  or 
near  the  kitchen  stove,  for  a  few  weeks, 
to  season. 

To  facilitate  the  work  of  planing 
the  stick  to  shape,  a  length  of  pine 
board  with  a  groove  in  one  edge  will 
be  found  handy.  A  5-ft.  length  of  the 
ordinary  tongue-and-groove  board, 
about  1  in.  thick,  will  be  just  the  thing. 
As  the  tip  of  the  rod  is  smaller  than 
the  butt,  plane  the  groove  in  the  board 
to  make  it  gradually  shallower  to  cor- 
respond to  the  taper  of  the  rod.  Nail 
this  board,  with  the  groove  uppermost, 
to  the  edge  of  the  workbench,  and 
place  the  rod  in  the  groove  with  one  of 
the  square  corners  up,  which  can  be 
easily  taken  of¥  with  the  finely  set 
plane.  Plane  off  the  other  three  cor- 
ners  in   a   like   manner,   transforming 


the  square  stick  into  one  of  octagon 
form.  This  part  of  the  work  should 
be  carefully  done,  and  the  stick  fre- 
quently calipered  at  each  6-in.  mark, 
to  obtain  the  proper  taper.  It  is  im- 
portant to  make  each  of  the  eight 
sides  as  nearly  uniform  as  the  caliper 
and  eye  can  do  it.  Set  the  cutter  of 
the  small  plane  very  fine,  lay  the  strip 
in  the  groove  and  plane  ofif  the  corner 
the  full  length  of  the  stick,  then  turn 
another  corner  uppermost  and  plane 
it  ofif,  and  so  on,  until  the  stick  is  al- 
most round  and  tapering  gradually 
from  the  mark  of  the  hand  grasp  to 
the  tip. 

To  make  the  rod  perfectly  round, 
use  the  steel  scraper  in  which  the 
grooves  were  filed  and  scrape  the  whole 
rod  to  remove  any  flat  or  uneven  spots, 
and  finish  up  by  sandpapering  it  down 
smooth. 

The  action  of  the  rod  difl:'ers  with 
the  material  used,  and  in  trying  out 
the  action,  it  is  well  to  tie  on  the  tip 
and  guides  and  affix  the  reel  by  a  string 
in  order  to  try  a  few  casts.  If  the 
action  seems  about  right,  give  the  rod 
a  final  smoothing  down  with  No.  0 
sandpaper. 

For  the  hand  grasp  nothing  is  so 
good  as  solid  cork,  and  while  hand 
grasps  may  be  purchased  assembled, 
it  is  a  simple  matter  to  make  them.  In 
Fig.  7  are  shown  four  kinds  of  han- 
dles, namely,  a  wood  sleeve,  or  core, 
A,  bored  to  fit  the  butt  of  the  rod  and 
shaped  for  winding  the  fishing  cord ; 
a  built-up  cork  grasp,  B,  made  by  ce- 
menting cork  washers  over  a  wood 
sleeve,  or  directly  to  the  butt  of  the 
rod ;  a  cane-wound  grip,  C,  mostly 
used  for  salt-water  fishing,  and  the 
double-wound  grip,  D,  made  in  one 
piece,  then  sawed  apart  in  the  center, 
the  forward  grip  being  glued  in  place 
after  the  reel  seat  is  in  position. 

To  make  a  grip,  select  a  number  of 
cork  washers,  which  may  be  obtained 
from  dealers  in  the  wholesale  drug 
trade,  or  from  any  large  fishing-tackle 
dealer.  Make  a  tool  for  cutting  a  hole 
in  their  centers  from  a  jnece  of  tubing, 
or  an  old  ferrule  of  the  required  diame- 
ter, by  filing  one  edge  sharp,  then  cov- 


63 


ering  the  other  end  with  several  thick- 
nesses of  cloth.  Turn  this  tube  around 
in  the  cork  like  a  wad  cutter.  If  the 
cutter  is  sharp,  a  nice  clean  cut  will 
result,  but  the  opposite  will  likely  oc- 


and  force  the  sleeve  tightly  in  place. 
A  day  or  two  should  be  allowed  for 
the  glue  to  set  and  thoroughly  dry,  be- 
fore giving  the  hand  grasp  the  final 
touches. 


MiMi!V,!iffljiii''7iliilliT'''iiniif '^ 


WSSM 


F.G.7 

The  Four  Different   Types   of   Hand   Grasps  Are   a  Wood    Sleeve  Bored  to   Fit   the   Butt  of   the    Rod; 

the  Built-Up  Cork  over  a  Wood  Sleeve;  a  Cane-Wound  Grasp,  and  the  Double  Cord- Wound 

Grasps  with  a  Reel  Seat  between  Them 


cur  if  an  attempt  is  made  to  hammer 
the  tube  through  the  cork. 

Having  cut  the  butt  end  of  the  rod 
off  square,  about  1  in.  from  the  end, 
or  enough  to  remove  the  holes,  smear 
a  little  hot  glue  on  the  end,  drop  a 
cork  washer  over  the  tip  of  the  rod  and 
work  it  down  to  the  butt.  Cut  another 
cork,  give  the  first  one  a  coat  of  glue, 
slip  the  former  over  the  tip  and  press 
the  two  together,  and  so  on,  until  about 
10  corks  have  been  glued  together  in 
position.  This  will  give  a  hand  grasp 
a  trifle  over  5  in.  long. 

A  sleeve  will  be  needed  for  the  reel 
seat  to  slip  over,  and  a  soft-wood  core 
of  this  sort  can  be  purchased  from  any 
dealer  in  rod-making  materials,  or  it 
can  be  made  at  home.  For  the  material 
procure  a  piece  of  white  pine,  about 
%  in.  in  diameter  and  5  in.  long.  A 
section  sawed  from  a  discarded  cur- 
tain roller  will  serve  the  purpose  well. 
Bore  a  Jf-in.  hole  through  the  piece 
and  plane  down  the  outside  until  it 
slips  inside  the  reel  seat.  It  should  be 
well  made  and  a  good  fit,  and  one  end 
tapered  to  fit  the  taper  of  the  reel  seat, 
while  the  opposite  end  should  be  about 
1/4  in.  shorter  than  the  reel  seat.  Slide 
this  wood  sleeve  down  the  rod,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  8,  coat  the  rod  and  the 
upper  part  of  the  last  cork  with  glue 


If  a  lathe  is  at  hand,  the  hand  grasp 
may  be  turned  to  any  desired  shape, 
but  most  anglers  prefer  a  cylindrical- 
shaped  grip,  leaving  the  top  cork  un- 
trimmed  to  form  a  kind  of  shoulder 
when  the  metal  reel  seat  is  pressed  into 
the  cork.  If  corks  of  l^/i-in.  diameter 
are  purchased,  but  little  trimming  will 
be  necessary  to  work  the  hand  grasp 
down  to  l^V  in.  in  diameter.  This  size 
seems  to  fit  the  average  hand  about 
right.  The  lower  corks  will  need  a 
little  trimming  to  fit  the  taper  of  the 
butt  cap  so  that  it  may  fit  snugly  in 
place.  Cement  the  butt  cap  in  place 
by  heating  the  cap  moderately  hot, 
then  rub  a  little  of  the  melted  ferrule 
cement  inside  the  cap,  and  force  it  over 
the  cork  butt.  When  the  cement  has 
hardened,   drive  a   small  brass   pin   or 


The  Corks  Glued  in  Place  on  the  Butt  and  the  Wood 

Sleeve,  or   Reel-Seat   Core,    Ready  to  Slide 

Down  and  Glue  in  Position 

brad  through  the  cap,  and  file  the  ends 
off  flush  with  the  metal  surface.  All 
the  guides,  ferrules,  and  reel  seat  are 
shown  in  Fig.  9. 


64 


The  regulation  metal  reel  seat  is 
about  41/1  in.  long,  and  in  fitting  it  to 
the  old  type  of  bait  rod,  the  covered 
hood  is  affixed  to  the  upper  end  of  the 
reel  seat.  This  arrangement  is  satisfac- 
tory enough  for  the  !J-ft.  bait  rod,  but  it 
is  rather  awkward  in  fitting  it  to  the 
short  bait-casting  rod,  as  with  the  hood 
at  the  upper  end  the  reel  is  pushed  so 
far  forward  that  it  leaves  1  in.  or  more 
of  the  reel  seat  exposed,  and  the  hand 
must  grip  this  smooth  metal  instead 
of  the  cork.  To  avoid  this,  it  is  best 
to  cut  the  reel  seat  down  to  3%  in. 
and  affix  the  reel  seat  to  the  rod  with 
the  hood  at  the  lower  end  near  the 
hand.  For  a  single  hand  grasp,  a  ta- 
pered winding  check  will  be  needed  to 
make  a  neat  finish  and  this  should  be 
ordered  of  the  correct  diameter  to  fit 
the  reel  seat  at  the  lower  end  and  the 
diameter  of  the  rod  at  the  other.  In 
the  double  hand  grasp  the  winding 
check  is  used  to  finish  ofi:  the  upper 
end  of  the  cork,  which  is  tapering  to 
fit  the  rod  at  this  point. 

In  assembling  the  reel  seat,  push 
it  with  the  hooded  end  well  down  and 
work  it  into  the  cork  to  make  a  tight 
waterproof  joint.  Push  the  reel  seat 
up  the  rod,  coat  the  sleeve  with  cement 
and  push  the  reel  seat  home.  Drive 
a  small  pin  through  the  hooded  end  and 
reel  seat  to  make  the  whole  rigid.  This 
pin  should  not  be  driven  through  the 
rod  or  it  will  weaken  it  at  this  point. 
Just  let  it  enter  the  wood  a  short  dis- 
tance to  prevent  the  reel  seat  from 
turning. 

The  upper  or  double  grasp  is  fash- 
ioned after  the  reel  seat  is  in  position, 
and  the  corks  are  cemented  on  and 
pushed  tightly  together  in  the  same 
manner  as  used  in  forming  the  lower 
grasp.  The  first  cork  should  be  pressed 
tightly  against  the  upper  end  of  the 
reel  seat  and  turned  about  so  that  the 
metal  may  enter  the  cork  and  form  a 
tight  joint.  As  many  corks  as  are  re- 
quired to  form  a  grip  of  proper  length 
are  in  turn  cemented  to  each  other  and 
the  rod.  After  the  glue  has  become 
dry,  the  cork  may  be  worked  down  and 
tapered  to  make  a  smooth,  swelled 
gxasp.     The  winding  check  is  now  ce- 


mented on,  to  make  a  neat  finish  be- 
tween the  upper  grip  and  the  rod. 

Before  affixing  the  guides,  go  over 
the  rod  with  fine  sandpaper,  then  wet 
the  wood  to  raise  the  grain,  and  repeat 
this  oi)eration,  using  old  sandpaper.  If 
an  extra-fine  polish  is  wanted,  rub  it 
down  with  powdered  pvmiice  and  oil, 
or  rottenstone  and  oil,  and  finish  ofif 
with  an  oiled  rag. 

To  fit  the  agate  tip,  file  down  the  end 
of  the  rod  with  a  fine-cut  file  until  it 
is  a  good  fit  in  the  metal  tube.  Melt 
a  little  of  the  ferrule  cement  and  smear 
a  little  on  the  tip  of  the  rod,  then  push 
the  agate  down  in  place. 

Spar  varnish  is  often  used  to  protect 
the  rod,  but  extra-light  coach  varnish 
gives  a  better  gloss,  and  it  is  as  dura- 
ble and  waterproof  as  any  varnish.  It 
is  only  necessary  to  purchase  a  quarter 
pint  of  the  varnish,  as  a  very  small 
quantity  is  used.  The  final  varnishing 
is,  of  course,  done  after  the  rod  has 
been  wound  and  the  guides  are  perma- 
nently whipped  in  position.  However, 
it  is  an  excellent  idea  to  fill  the  pores 
of  the  wood  by  rubbing  it  over  with  a 
cloth  saturated  in  the  varnish  before 
the  silk  whippings  are  put  on.  Merely 
fill  the  cells  of  the  wood  and  wipe  off 
all  surplus,  leaving  the  rod  clean  and 
smooth. 

The  guides  may  now  be  fastened  in 
place,  and  for  the  5-ft.  rod,  but  two  of 
them  are  necessa^3^  The  first  guide 
should  be  placed  19%  in-  from  the 
metal  taper  which  finishes  ofif  the  up- 
per hand  grasp,  and  the  second  guide 
spaced  151/'  Jn.  from  the  first.  By  spac- 
ing the  guides  in  this  manner,  the  line 
will  run  through  them  with  the  least 
possible  friction. 

Winding,  or  Whipping,  the  Rod 

Before  whipping  on  the  guides,  take 
a  fine  file  and  round  off  the  sharp  edges 
of  the  base  to  prevent  the  possibility 
of  the  silk  being  cut.  Measure  off  the 
required  distances  at  which  the  guides 
are  to  be  affixed,  and  fasten  them  in 
position  by  winding  with  a  few  turns 
of  common  thread.  Ordinary  silk  of 
No.  A  size  may  be  used,  but  No.  00  is 
the  best  for  small  rods.    Most  angflers 


65 


agree  that  the  size  of  the  silk  to  use 
for  the  whippings  should  be  in  propor- 
tion to  the  size  of  the  rod — heavy  silk 


from  the  spool  and  tuck  the  end  under 
the  whipping  by  pulling  on  the  ends 
of   the   waxed   loop,   as   shown   at   G. 


The  Mountings  Used  on  a  Bait-Casting  Rod  Consist  of  a  Reel  Seat,  Butt  Cap,  Taper  Sleeve,  Narrow 
Agate  Guide,  Agate  Offset  Top,  One  Ring  Guide,  and  a  Welted,  Shouldered  Ferrule 


for  the  heavy  rod,  and  fine  silk  for  the 
small  rod.  Size  A  is  the  finest  silk 
commonly  stocked  in  the  stores,  but 
one  or  more  spools  of  No.  00  and  No. 
0  may  be  ordered  from  any  large  dealer 
in  fishing  tackle.  As  a  rule,  size  0 
gives  a  more  workmanlike  finish  to  the 
butt  and  joints  of  fly  and  bait  rods, 
while  No.  00  is  about  right  to  use  for 
winding  the  tips.  In  fact,  all  rods 
weighing  up  to  6  oz.  may  be  whipped 
with  No.  00  size. 

In  whipping  the  rod,  the  so-called 
invisible  knot  is  used.  Begin  the  whip- 
ping, as  shown  at  E,  Fig.  10,  by  tuck- 
ing the  end  under  the  first  coil  and 
holding  it  with  the  left  thumb.  The 
spool  of  silk  is  held  in  the  right  hand 
and  the  rod  is  turned  to  the  left,  suf- 
ficient tension  being  kept  on  the  silk  so 
that  it  can  be  evenly  coiled  with  each 
strand  tightly  against  the  other.  A 
loop  of  silk,  some  4  in.  long,  is  well 
waxed  and  placed  so  that  its  end  will 
project  a  short  distance  beyond  the  last 
coil  which  finishes  the  whipping.  This 
detail  is  shown  at  F.  In  whipping  on 
guides,  begin  the  whipping  at  the  base 
and  work  over  the  pointed  end  of  the 
flange,  winding  on  sufficient  silk  to  ex- 
tend about  %  in.  beyond  the  pointed 
flange  of  the  guide  base.  When  the 
last  coil  is  made,  cut  off  the  thread 


Cut  off  the  ends  neatly  with  a  sharp 
knife. 

For  colors,  bright  red  and  a  medium 
shade  of  apple  green  are  the  best, 
since  these  colors  keep  their  original 
tint  after  varnishing,  and  are  less  likely 
to  fade  than  the  more  delicate  shades. 
Red  finished  off  with  a  narrow  circle 
of  green  always  looks  well,  and  red 
with  yellow  is  likewise  a  good  combina- 
tion. Narrow  windings  look  much  bet- 
ter than  wide  whippings,  and  a  dozen 
turns  make  about  as  wide  a  winding 
as  the  angler  desires.  For  edgings, 
three  or  four  turns  of  silk  are  about 


r 


G 

Tig. 10 

Both  Ends  of  the  Silk  Thread   are   Placed  under  the 
Winding  to  Form  an  Invisible  Knot 

right,  and  these  should  be  put  on  after 
the  wider  windings  have  been  whipped 
on  and  in  the  same  manner,  although  it 
is  best  to  tuck  the  ends  of  the  edging 


66 


beneath  the  wider  winding  when  pull- 
ing the  end  through  to  make  the  invisi- 
ble knot. 

Varnishing  the  Rod 

After  winding  the  rod,  see  that  all 
fuzzy  ends  are  neatly  clipped  off,  then 
go  over  the  silk  windings  with  a  coat 
of  shellac.  The  shellac  can  be  made 
by  dissolving  a  little  white  shellac  in 
grain  alcohol.  Warm  the  shellac  and 
apply  it  with  a  small  camel's-hair 
brush,  giving  the  silk  only  two  light 
coats.  Allow  the  rod  to  stand  a  couple 
of  days  for  the  shellac  to  become  thor- 
oughly dry. 

A  small  camel's-hair  brush  will  be 
required  for  the  varnishing — one  about 
%  in.  wide  will  do.  If  the  varnishing 
is  to  be  done  out  of  doors,  a  clear  and 
warm  day  should  be  selected,  and  the 
can  of  coach  varnish  should  be  placed 
in  a  pot  of  hot  water  for  five  minutes, 
so  that  the  varnish  will  spread  evenly. 


A  temperature  of  about  75  deg.  is  best 
for  this  work,  as  the  varnish  will  not 
spread  if  cold  or  in  a  cold  place.  The 
varnish  should  be  evenly  brushed  on, 
and  care  taken  that  no  spots  are  left 
untouched.  Hang  up  by  the  tip  to  dry 
in  a  room  free  from  dust.  While  the 
varnish  will  set  in  four  or  five  hours, 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  allow  three  days 
for  drying  between  coats.  Two  coats 
will  suffice  to  protect  the  rod,  but  as 
coach  varnish,  properly  applied,  is 
rather  thin  in  body,  three  coats  will 
give  complete  protection  to  the  wood. 
The  materials  required  for  this  rod 
are,  1  dagame  or  greenheart  stick,  5  ft. 
long  and  %  in.  square ;  1  reel  seat  with 
straight  hood,  %  in. ;  1  butt  cap,  1  in. ; 
1  taper,  small  end  gf  in. ;  1  offset,  or 
angle,  agate  top,  g\  in.,  and  2  narrow 
agate  guides,  1/2  hi.,  all  in  German  sil- 
ver; 8  doz.  corks,  II4  by  IVs  in.,  and 
two  50-yd.  spools  of  silk,  red  and  green, 
00  size. 


Automatic  Watering  System  for 
Poultry  Yards 

Where  a  large  number  of  poultry  is 
cared  for,  the  annoyance  and  attention 
necessary  to  furnish  a  constant  water 
supply  can  be  overcome  by  using  the 
system  shown  in  the  illustration.  For 
this  purpose  a  storage  tank  must  be 
provided.  This  may  be  some  old  toilet 
flush  tank,  or  any  open  reservoir  that 
will  hold  sufficient  water  to  keep  all 
the  drinking  pans  supplied.  A  float  is 
provided   and   connected    with    a   stop 


valve,  so  that  when  the  float  drops 
below  a  certain  level,  the  valve  will 
be  turned  open,  and  a  fresh  supply  of 
water  will  enter  the  storage  tank, 
thereby  again  raising  the  float  and  clos- 
ing the  valve. 

Each  drinking  pan  should  be  about 
10  in.  in  diameter  by  4  in.  deep,  and 
is  drilled  for  a  y^-^n.  hole  to  fit  a  i^-in. 
pipe.  At  the  pan  end,  the  pipe  is 
threaded  so  that  a  lock  nut  and  leather 
washer  can  be  attached  on  each  side 
of  the  pan  bottom,  to  provide  a  water- 
tight joint;  at  the  other  end,  the  pipe 


Simple  Arrangement  of  a  Flush  Tank  in  Connection  with  a  System  of  Pipes  to  Supply  One  or  More 

Pans  of  Water  for  the  Poultry  Yard 


67 


is  screwed  into  a  tee  in  tlie  lo-in-  main 
line  which  connects  with  the  storage 
tank. 

In  using  the  system,  sufficient  water 
is  run  into  the  tank  to  fill  the  pans 
about  three-quarters  full.  The  float 
may  then  be  adjusted  to  a  shut-off  posi- 
tion for  the  inlet  valve.  All  pans  are 
automatically  kept  at  one  level,  even 
though  several  may  be  used  consider- 
ably more  than  others.  When  the 
general  water  level  has  dropped  suffi- 
ciently, the  float,  dropping  with  it,  will 
open  the  stop  valve,  and  cause  the 
water  to  enter  the  tank  and  pans  until 
the  original  level  is  again  restored. — 
Contributed  by  D.  E.  Hall,  Hadlyme, 
Connecticut. 


paste,  and  the  flap  B  is  folded  over 
them.  The  envelope  is  then  ready  for 
the  inclosure.    The  flap  C  is  pasted  and 


SLIP  CARD 
ONE  HALF  BLACK 


Changing  Pip  on  a  Card 

Cut  out  the  center  pip  on  the  five- 
spot  of  spades  with  a  sharp  knife.  Cut 
a  slot  centrally 
in  another  card, 
about  Y^  in.  wide 
and  iVi  in.  long. 
Glue  the  surfaces 
of  both  cards  to- 
gether near  the 
edges  to  form  a 
pocket  for  a 
slide,  which  is 
"cut  from  another 
card  and  has 
one-half  of  its 
surface  colored 
black.  A  drop  of  sealing  wax  attached 
to  the  back  of  the  sliding  part,  so  that 
it  projects  through  the  slot,  provides 
a  means  of  moving  the  slide  in  the 
pocket.  A  lightning  change  can  be 
made  from  a  five-spot  to  a  four-spot 
while  swinging  the  card. 


To  Make  a  Special  Envelope 

Any  size  of  envelope  for  mailing  spe- 
cial papers  or  documents  can  be  made 
as  follows :  All  envelopes  are  of  the 
same  shape  as  shown  in  Fig.  1 ;  the  size 
for  the  papers  to  be  inclosed  is  repre- 
sented by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  2. 
The    projections    A    are    coated    with 


/ 

C 

\ 

\ 

^ 

A 

A 

X- 

X 

B 

Fio.l 


Fio.a  Fig. 4 

Various  Stages  in  the  Forming  of  an  Envelope  to 
Make  Any  Size  for  Special  Papers 

folded  over  as  with  an  ordinary  envel- 
ope.— Contributed  by  L.  E.  Turner, 
New  York  City. 


Automatically  Extinguishing  a  Candle 

Candles  can  be  easily  fitted  with 
attachments  to  extinguish  the  light  at 
a  set  time.  To  determine  the  length 
of  time,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  mark  a 
candle  of  the 
size  used  and 
time  how  long  a 
certain  length  of 
it  will  burn. 
Then  it  is  suffi- 
cient to  suspend 
a  small  metal 
dome,  or  cap,  to 
which  a  string  is 
attached,  d  i  - 
rectly  over  the  flame,  and  run  the  oppo- 
site end  of  the  string  over  nails  or 
through  screw  eyes,  so  that  it  can  be 
tied  around  the  candle  such  a  distance 
from  the  flame  end,  that  the  part  be- 
tween the  flame  and  the  string  will  be 
consumed  in  the  time  desired  for  the 
light  to  burn.  When  this  point  is 
reached,  the  string  slips  off  the  candle, 
and  the  cap  drops  on  the  flame. 


68 


Clothespin    Newspaper    Holder 

A  simple  newspaper  holder  can  be 
made  by  cutting  away  a  portion  ot  one 
side  of  an  ordinary  clothespin,  drilling- 


Shaping  a  Clothespin  Head  and  Fastening  It  to  a  Wall 
Provides  a  Holder  for  Newspapers 

a  hole  through  the  thick  end  for  a 
screw  or  nail,  and  fastening  it  in  place 
where  desired.  Another  way  is  to  split 
off  one  side  of  a  clothespin  and  cut  the 
bottom  of  the  remaining  part  tapering 
as  shown ;  then  drill  a  hole  to  avoid 
splitting  the  piece  and  fasten  in  a  con- 
venient place. — Contributed  by  J.  P. 
Rupp,  Norwalk,  O. 


Holder  for  a  Dory  Rudder 

The  rudder  of  a  sailing  dory  or  row- 
boat  often  comes  ofif  in  rough  water, 


The  Loop  on  the  Iron  Rod  Holds  the  Pin  of  the 
Rudder  in  the  Eye 

and   in   order  to  keep   it   in   place   and 
yet  have  it  easily  detachable  at  will, 


the  following  method  is  useful :  Procure 
a  10-in.  length  of  soft-iron  rod  and 
bend  one  end  of  it  into  a  loop  large 
enough  to  fit  around  the  rudder  pin 
after  the  latter  is  inserted  in  the  eyelet. 
Insert  screws  at  A,  B  and  C,  letting 
them  project  about  I/2  in.  from  the 
surface.  Bend  the  rod  at  D  and  A  in 
the  shape  shown,  and  with  a  little  ad- 
justment it  will  easily  snap  into  posi- 
tion. It  will  prevent  the  rudder  from 
riding  up  out  of  the  eyelets,  but  can 
be  detached  instantly.  The  device 
should  be  applied  to  the  upper  pin  so 
as  to  be  within  easy  reach. — Con- 
trilnited  1)y  B.  A.  Thresher,  Lakeville, 
Connecticut. 


Trimming  Photographs 

In  trimming  small  photograph  prints 
I  experienced  some  difficulty  in  getting 
them  square,  and  I  did  not  care  to  in- 
vest in  a  trimming  board.  By  follow- 
ing a  line  drawn  around  the  print  with 
a  triangle,  it  was  impossible  to  make 
a  perfect  rectangle.  In  the  place  of  a 
trimming  board  I  now  use  a  piece  of 
glass  cut  a  little  smaller  than  the  de- 
sired print.  The  edges  of  the  glass  are 
smoothed  by  filing  or  grinding  them. 
In  making  a  glass,  be  sure  to  have  the 
corners  cut  at  perfect  right  angles  and 
the  edges  ground  straight. 

The  glass  is  easily  located  over  the 
print,  and  by  holding  the  two  tightly 
together  the  edges  of  the  print  can  be 
trimmed  with  a  pair  of  shears. — Con- 
tributed by  E.  Leslie  McFarlane, 
Nashwaaksis,  N.  B. 


A  Metal  Polish 

A  metal  polish  that  is  safe  to  use 
about  the  home  is  composed  of  30 
parts  alcohol,  3  parts  ammonia  water, 
45  parts  water,  6I/2  parts  carbon  tet- 
rachloride, 8  parts  kieselguhr,  4  parts 
white  bole,  and  8  parts  of  chalk.  These 
substances  can  be  purchased  at  a  local 
drug  store  and  should  be  mixed  in  the 
order  named.  Any  grease  on  metal 
will  be  dissolved  by  this  solution.^ — ■ 
Contributed  by  Loren  Ward,  Des 
Moines,  Iowa. 


Fishing-Rod  Making  and  Angling 

By  STILLMAN  TAYLOR 
PART  II — Various  Two  and  Three-Piece  Rods 


WHILE  the  action  of  the  one-piece 
rod  is  undeniably  better  than 
when  the  rod  is  made  in  two  or  three 
pieces,  it  is  less  compact  to  carry.  To 
make  a  5-ft.  two-piece  bait-casting  rod, 
the  same  dimensions  as  given  for  the 
one-piece  rod  will  make  a  very  fine 
fishing  tool.  It  is  well  to  make  two 
tips  in  view  of  a  possible  breakage. 
The  rod  may  consist 
of  two  pieces  of  equal 
length,  but  a  rod  of 
better  action  is  secured 
by  making  the  butt 
section  somewhat 
shorter  with  a  relative- 
ly longer  tip.  By  mak- 
ing the  butt 
section  about 
23  in.  long,  ex- 
clusive of  fer- 
rule and  butt 
cap,     and 


are  added.  The  material  list  is  as  fol- 
lows, the  attachments  being  made  of 
german  silver :  Dagame  or  greenheart 
butt,  %  in.  by  3  ft.  long;  two  tips  %  in. 
by  3  ft.  long;  one  %-in.  reel  seat  with 
straight  hood ;  one  1-in.  butt  cap ;  one 
taper,  i%o  in.  at  the  small  end ;  two 
%2-in.  offset  agate  tops ;  two  i/^-in.  nar- 
row agate  guides;  two  No.  1  size  one- 


tip  section  321/0  in. 
long,  a  splendid  lit- 
tle rod  is  obtained 
which  will  fit  any 
of  the  regulation 
rod  cases  of  3o-in. 
length.  To  make 
a  61/2-oz.  rod  of 
this  kind  with  a 
cork  hand  grasp, 
caliper  it  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
one-piece  rod,  making  the  butt  section 
321/^  in.  long,  tapering  from  i%2  i'l-  3-t 
the  upper  end  of  the  hand  grasp  to  i%4 
in.  at  the  ferrule.  The  tip  is  made  33  in. 
long,  tapering  from  i%4  in.  to  %4  in. 
By  making  the  tip  and  butt  to  these 
lengths,  both  parts  will  be  of  equal 
length  when  the  ferrules  and  the  tops 


ring  casting 
guides ;  one  i%4- 
in.  welted  and 
shouldered  f  e  r - 
rule,  with  two 
closed-end  c  e  n  - 
ters,  one  for  each 
tip ;  two  dozen 
cork  washers,  11/4, 
in.  in  diameter, 
and  two  spools  of 
winding  silk. 

The  three-piece 
rod  should  be 
made  up  to  6  ft.  in 
length  to  secure 
the  best  action, 
but  even  if  so 
made,  the  use  of 
the  extra  ferrules  makes  the  rod  less 
resilient  and  elastic  than  the  rod  of 
one  or  two-piece  construction.  The 
best  action  is  obtained  only  when  the 
rod  bends  to  a  uniform  curve,  and  since 
the  ferrules  cannot  conform  to  this 
curve,  or  arc,  the  more  joints  incorpo- 
rated in  a  rod,  the  less  satisfactory  it 
will   be   from   an   angling   standpoint. 


The  Making  of  a  Rod  Not  Only  Affords  Much 

Pleasure,  but  the  Rod  can  be  Constructed 

as  Desired 


69 


70 


Convenience  in  packing  and  carrying 
are  the  sole  merits  which  the  many- 
jointed  rod  possesses.  Complete  speci- 
fications for  making  a  three-piece  bait- 
casting  rod,  together  with  a  material 
list,  is  as  follows:  A  rod,  about  oV-i  ft. 
long  with  a  single  or  double  hand  grasp 
made  of  cork,  will  weigh  about  7  oz. 
Caliper  the  butt  so  that  it  will  taper 
from  i%2  in-  to  i^o  ii.  at  the  cap  of  the 
ferrule,  making  it  21i/^  in.  long.  The 
middle  joint  is  tapered  from  ^Ym  in.  to 
^%4  in.,  and  is  21%  in.  long.  The  tips 
are  21  in.  long  and  are  tapered  from 
i%4  in.  to  %4  in.  Dagame  or  green- 
heart  is  used  for  the  butt,  joint,  and 
tips,  and  german  silver  for  the  fittings. 
All  pieces  are  2  ft.  long,  the  butt  is  % 
in.,  the  joint  and  tips,  %  in.  One  %-in. 
reel  seat  with  straight  hood ;  one  1-in. 
butt  cap  ;  one  taper,  small  end  i'/-s2  in. ; 
one  2%4-in.  welted  and  shouldered  fer- 
rule ;  one  ■^%4-in.  welted  and  shoul- 
dered ferrule  with  two  closed  centers, 
one  for  each  tip ;  two  %2-in-  olifset 
agate  tops ;  two  %-in.  narrow  agate 
guides ;  two  No.  1  size  one-ring  casting 
guides ;  two  dozen  cork  washers,  and 
winding  silk,  size  00  or  0. 

Fly  Rods  for  Trout  and  Bass 

Having  made  a  good  bait-casting 
rod,  the  amateur  will  find  little  trouble 
in  making  a  rod  with  a  number  of 
joints,  and  no  special  instructions  need 
be  given,  since  the  work  of  planing  and 
smoothing  up  the  wood,  and  finishing 
and  mounting  the  rod,  is  the  same  as 
has  been  described  in  detail  before. 
For  fly  fishing  for  trout,  accuracy  and 
delicacy  are  of  more  importance  than 
length  of  cast,  and  the  rod  best  suited 
to  this  phase  of  angling  differs  greatly 
from  that  used  in  bait  casting.  A  stiff, 
heavy  rod  is  entirely  unsuited  for  fly 
casting,  and  while  it  is,  of  course,  pos- 
sible to  make  a  rod  too  willowy  for  the 
sport,  the  amateur,  working  by  rule  of 
thumb,  is  more  likely  to  err  on  the 
other  side  and  make  the  fly  rods  of  too 
stout  a  caliber.  The  idea  is  simply  to 
help  the  amateur  over  the  hard  part 
by  giving  a  list  of  dimensions  of  a  rep- 
resentative trout  and  a  bass  fly  rod. 
To  make  a  l)-ft.  trout  fly  rod,  with  a 


cork  grasp  having  a  length  of  9  in. 
above  the  reel  seat,  caliper  the  material 
as  follows :  The  butt  is  tapered  from 
YiQ  in.  to  -%4  in.  at  1  ft.  from  the  butt 
end;  11/2  ft,  "/32  in. ;  2  ft.,  si/g^  in.;  21/2 
ft.,  %6  in.,  and  3  ft.,  ^%4  in.  The  first 
6  in.  of  the  middle  joint  is  calipered  to 
%2  in.;  1  ft.,  i'/ti4  in.;  U/o  ft.,  i%4  in.; 
2  ft,  Ysa  in.;  21/0  ft.,  13/64  in.,  and  3  ft., 
%6  in.  The  first  6  in.  of  the  tips  are 
calipered  to  i%4  in.;  1  ft.,  %2  in.;  1% 
ft.,  i/s  in. ;  2  ft.,  %4  in. ;  21/0  ft.,  %2  in., 
and  3  ft.,  %4  in.  All  joints  are  made 
36i/>  in.  long.  The  material  used  is 
dagame,  or  greenheart,  the  butt  being 
%  in.  by  4  ft.,  the  joint  %  in.  by  4  ft., 
and  the  tips  %  in.  by  4  ft.  The  attach- 
ments, of  german  silver,  are :  One  %- 
in.  reel  seat,  fly-rod  type  with  butt  cap ; 
one  taper,  3%4  in.  at  the  small  end  ;  one 
%2-in.  welted  and  shouldered  ferrule ; 
one  1%4-in.  welted  and  shouldered  fer- 
rule with  two  closed-end  centers,  one 
for  each  tip ;  two  No.  4  snake  guides  for 
the  butt  joint ;  three  No.  3  snake  guides 
for  the  middle  joint,  and  six  No.  2 
snake  guides,  three  for  each  tip  section  ; 
two  No.  7  agate  angle  fly  tops,  the  kind 
to  wind  on ;  one  dozen  cork  washers, 
and  two  10-yd.  spools  of  winding  silk, 
00  size. 

A  bass  fly  rod  9i/4  ft.  long,  weighing 
7I/2  oz.,  with  a  cork  grasp,  9I/2  in.  above 
the  reel  seat,  is  calipered  as  follows : 
The  butt  is  tapered  from  i%2  in.  to 
2%4  in.  1  ft.  from  the  end;  fi/i  ft.  from 
butt,  2%,  in. ;  2  ft.,  11/30  in. ;  21/0  ft.,  21/34 
in.,  and  3  ft.,  i%4  in.  The  first  6  in.  of 
the  middle  joint  is  i%4  in. ;  1  ft.,  %o  in. ; 
11/2  ft.,  I'/si  in.;  2  ft.,  i%4  in.;  2i/o  ft., 
%2  in.,  and  3  ft.,  i%4  in.  The  first  6  in. 
of  the  tips,  i%4  in. ;  1  ft.,  %2  in. ;  li/o  ft., 
%4  in. ;  2  ft.,  i/s  in. ;  21/0  ft.,  Vei  in.,  and 
3  ft.,  %4  in.  The  joints  are  36i/o  in. 
long.  The  mountings  are  the  same  as 
for  the  trout  fly  rod.  Dagame,  or  green- 
heart,  wood  is  used,  the  butt  being  % 
in.  by  4  ft.,  the  joint  %  in.  by  4  ft.  and 
the  tips  %  in.  by  4  feet. 

The  two-piece  salt-water  rod  with 
an  18-in.  double  cork  hand  grasp,  the 
whole  being  Ci/j  ft.  long,  is  made  to 
weigh  about  13  oz.,  with  the  following 
caliperings :  A  uniform  taper  of  ^Yei 
in.  to  -%i  in.,  from  the  cork  grasp  to 


71 


the  ferrule,  is  given  to  the  butt.  The 
first  6  in.  of  the  tips  is  i%o  in. ;  1  ft.,  ^%4 
in.;  1%  ft.,  11/32  in.;  2  ft.,  ^Ye^  in.;  21/2 
ft.,  %2   in.,  and   to  tip,   i%4   in.     The 


eted  in  place,  and  a  soft-pine  sleeve 
is  fitted  over  the  wood  core  and  the 
ferrule.  The  forward  end  of  the  sleeve 
is,  of  course,  tapered  to  fit  the  taper 


The  Mountings  for  a  Fly  Rod  Consist  of  a  Reel  Seat  with  a  Straight  Hood,  a  Taper,  Snake  Guide, 

Agate  Angle  Top,  and  Serrated  Ferrule.     The  Toothed  Ends  are  Wound 

with  Silk  to  Afford  Additional  Strength 


joints  are  made  36%  in.  long.  Dagame, 
or  greenheart,  is  used  with  german-sil- 
ver  mountings.  Both  pieces  of  wood 
are  4  ft.  long,  the  butt  being  of  %-in. 
and  the  tip  of  i/li-in.  material.  One  %- 
in.  reel  seat  with  straight  hood,  one  1- 
in.  butt  cap,  one  '^o-in.  ferrule,  one 
taper  with  small  end  ^%4  in, ;  one  i%o- 
in.  stirrup-tube  agate  top ;  two  No.  3 
bell  guides ;  two  dozen  cork  washers, 
and  two  spools,  size  A,  winding  silk. 

The  Independent-Butt  Rod 

The  independent-butt  rod,  in  which 
the  hand  grasp  contains  the  ferrule  and 
the  tip  is  made  in  one  piece,  is  a  favor- 
ite type  with  many  of  the  best  fisher- 
men. This  mode  of  construction  may 
be  used  with  all  classes  of  rods,  the 
light  fly  and  bait-casting  rods,  and  the 
heavier  caliber  rods  used  in  salt-water 
angling.  In  rods  of  this  type,  it  is  only 
necessary  to  use  the  same  size  ferrule 
to  make  as  many  tips  as  desired  to  fit 
the  one  butt.  Tips  of  several  calibers 
and  weights  may  thus  be  fashioned  to 
fit  the  one  butt,  and  if  the  single-piece 
tip  is  too  long  for  some  special  use,  one 
tip  may  be  made  a  jointed  one  for  ease 
in  carrying. 

The  independent  butt,  or  hand  grasp, 
is  made  by  fitting  the  ferrule  directly 
on  a  length  of  dagame,  or  greenheart, 
which  has  been  rounded  so  that  the 
seated  ferrule  will  not  touch  the  wood. 
The  ferrule  is  then  cemented  and  riv- 


of  the  reel  seat,  and  when  properly 
fitted,  its  lower  end  will  project  about 
14  in.  beyond  the  pine  sleeve.  Glue 
the  sleeve  on  this  wood  core,  cement 
the  reel  seat  to  the  sleeve,  and  rivet  the 
reel  seat  in  place. 

The  cork  washers  are  glued  in  posi- 
tion, working  the  first  one  into  the 
metal  edge  of  the  reel  seat,  to  make  a 
nice,  tight  joint  at  this  point.  The 
other  corks  are  then  glued  in  place 
until  the  hand  grasp  is  of  the  desired 
length.  The  projecting  end  of  the 
wood  core  is  then  cut  of?  flush  with 
the  last  cork,  and  the  rod  is  mounted 
in  the  usual  manner. 

In  making  a  double  hand  grasp,  the 
forward  grasp  may  be  fitted  over  the 
wood  core  in  the  fashion  already  de- 
scribed in  making  the  hand  grasp  for 
the  one-piece  bait-casting  rod,  or  the 
forward  grasp  may  be  fitted  to  the  tip, 
just  above  the  ferrule,  as  preferred. 
Both  methods  are  commonly  used,  the 
only  dift'erence  being  in  the  manner  of 
finishing  up  the  forward  grasp.  If  the 
forward  grip  is  affixed  to  the  ferruled 
end  of  the  tip,  two  tapered  thimbles 
will  be  required  to  make  a  nice  finish. 

The  heavy-surf,  or  tarpon,  rod  is 
made  up  of  an  independent,  detachable 
butt,  20  in.  long,  having  a  solid-cork  or 
cord-wound  hand  grasp,  and  a  one- 
piece  tip,  51/2  ft.  long,  altogether  weigh- 
ing 231/;  oz.  It  is  uniformly  calipered 
to  taper  from  ^%2  in.  to  %e  in.     One 


73 


piece  of  dagame,  or  greenheart,  1  in. 
by  61/2  ft.,  will  be  required.  One  1-in. 
reel  seat  for  detachable  butt,  including 
one  %-in.  male  ferrule ;  one  IVs-in.  butt 
cap;  two  No.  11  wide,  raised  agate 
guides  ;  two  No.  1  trumpet  guides  ;  one 
%-in.  agate  stirrup  top ;  two  spools  of 
winding  silk,  A-size,  and  two  dozen 
cork  washers,  or  sufficient  iishline  to 


cord  the  butt.  The  guides  are  whipped 
on  double,  the  first  set  spaced  10  in. 
from  the  top,  and  the  second,  26  in. 
from  the  reel.  The  core  of  the  inde- 
pendent, or  detachable,  butt  is  con- 
structed of  the  same  material  as  the 
rod,  which  makes  the  hand  grasp  some- 
what elastic  and  very  much  superior 
to  a  stiff  and  rigid  butt. 


Homemade   Ball   Catch  for   Cabinet 
Doors 

To  make  a  ball  catch,  procure  a  piece 
of  brass,  1  in.  Ions;-,  1/2  in.  wide,  and 
thick 


about    Vio    in. 


and  an  old  gas 
burner  having 
a  diameter  o  f 
%  in.  As  de- 
scribed by 
Work,  London, 
the  threaded 
part  of  the  bur- 
ner is  cut  off, 
which  forms  a  contracted  end  that  will 
hold  a  steel  ball  Yiq  in.  in  diameter  and 
allow  it  to  project  Vs  in-  A  hole  is 
drilled  in  the  center  of  the  brass  plate, 
and  the  barrel  soldered  in  place.  A 
piece  of  spiral  spring  is  inserted  be- 
hind the  ball.  The  stiffness  of  the 
spring  will  depend  on  the  use  of  the 
catch.  The  barrel  is  cut  to  length  and 
plugged.  Another  plate  of  brass  is 
fitted  with  screw  holes  and  a  hole  in 
the  center  to  receive  the  projecting  ball 
part,  for  the  strike. 

Combination  Needle  and  Thread  Tray 

When  any  attempt  is  made  to  keep 
sewing  material,  such  as  needles, 
spools,  or  buttons,  separate,  each  of  the 
articles  is  usu- 
ally kept  in  some 
special  drawer, 
or  by  itself,  and 
when  necessary 
to  use  one,  the 
others  must  be 
found,  frequent- 
ly necessitating 
many  extra  steps  or  much  lost  time  in 
hunting  up  the  various  articles.     The 


illustrated  combination  tray  avoids  this 
difficulty.  It  consists  of  two  round 
trays  fastened  together  near  one  edge 
with  a  wood  screw,  which  is  loosely 
fitted  in  the  lower  tray  but  screwed 
into  the  upper  to  permit  them  being 
swung  apart.  Extra  thickness  and 
weight  should  be  given  the  bottom 
piece  so  no  tipping  will  result  when  the 
top  is  swung  out  to  expose  the  buttons 
in  the  lower  section.  The  thread  spools 
are  placed  on  pegs  set  in  the  upper 
tray,  and  the  cushion  in  the  center  is 
provided  for  the  pins  and  needles. — • 
Contributed  by  J.  Harger,  Honolulu, 
Hawaiian  Islands. 


Repairing  Worn  Escapement  Wheel  of 
a  Clock 

When  the  ordinary  clock  has  served 
its  usefulness  and  is  apparently  worn 
out,  the  jeweler's  price  to  overhaul  it 
frequently  amounts  to  almost  as  much 
as  the  original  purchase  price.  One 
weak  place  in  the  clock  is  the  escape- 
ment wheel.  The  points  soon  wear 
down,  thereby  producing  a  greater  es- 
capement and  pendulum  movement, 
resulting  in  an  increased  strain  and 
wear  of  the  clock.  If  the  tips  of  the 
teeth  on  the  wheel  are  bent  up  slightly 
with  a  pair  of  pliers,  the  swing  of  the 
pendulum  will  be  reduced,  thereby  in- 
creasing the  life  of  the  clock.  Many  of 
the  grandfather's  clocks  can  be  put  in 
order  in  this  manner  so  as  to  serve  as  a 
timepiece  as  well  as  a  cherished  orna- 
ment.— Contributed  by  C.  F.  Spaulding, 
Chicago,  111. 


CA  piece  of  work  should  never  be  fin- 
gered while  filing  it  in  a  lathe. 


Fishing-Rod  MaMng  and  Angling 

By  STILLMAN  TAYLOR 
PART  ni— Trout  Fishing  with  Fly  and  Bait 


'■^■%j^ 


np  HE  art  of  an- 

■■■  gling  is  gen- 
erally viewed  as 
one  of  the  world's 
greatest  r  e  c  r  e  - 
ations,  and  while 
each  and  every 
phase  of  fishing 
may  be  said  to 
possess  certain 
charms  of  its  own, 
fly  fishing  for 
trout  is  regarded 
by  most  well-informed  sportsmen  as 
the  alpha  and  omega  of  the  angler's  art. 
This  is  so  because  the  trout  family  are 
luicommonly  wary  and  game  fish,  and 
the  tackle  used  for  their  capture  is  of 
finer  balance  and  less  clumsy  than  any 
employed  in  angling  for  the  coarser 
game  fishes.  If  he  would  take  full  ad- 
A'antage  of  any  sport  and  reap  the 
greatest  pleasure  from  a  day  spent  in 
the  open,  it  is  really  necessary  for  the 
sportsman  to  get  together  a  good  out- 
fit. It  is  not  essential  to  have  a  very 
expensive  one.  but  it  should  be  good  of 
its  kind;  well  proportioned  for  the  pur- 
pose for  which  it  is  to  be  used.  The  be- 
ginner, who  buys  without  good  knowl- 


If  He  would  Take  Full  Ad- 
vantage of  Any  Sport  and 
Reap  the  Greatest  Pleasure 
from  a  Day  Spent  in  the 
Open,  the  Sportsman  should 
Get  Together  a  Good  Outfit 


edge  of  the  arti- 
required,  or  fails  to 
careful  discrimination, 
is  almost  certain  to  accumu- 
ate  a  varied  assortment  of 
junk,  attractive  enough  in  ap- 
pearance, perhaps,  but  well- 
nigh  useless  when  it  is  tested  out  on 
the  stream.  A  good  representative  out- 
fit, then,  is  of  the  first  importance ;  it 
means  making  a  good  beginning  by  in- 
itiating the  novice  in  the  sport  under 
the  most  favorable  conditions.  Let  us 
then  consider  the  selection  of  a  good 
fishing  kit,  a  well-balanced  rod,  the 
kind  of  a  reel  to  use  with  it,  the  right 
sort  of  a  line,  flies,  and  the  other  few 
items  found  in  the  kit  of  the  practical 
and  experienced  trout  fisherman. 

Selecting  a  Good  Fly  Rod 

The  ordinary  fishing  pole  may  be 
bought  ofi'hand  at  almost  any  hard- 
ware store,  but  a  well-balanced  rod  for 
fly  fishing  should  be  well  tested  out 
beforehand.  The  requirements  call  for 
a  rod  of  comparatively  light  weight, 
a  rod  that  is  elastic  and  resilient,  and 
yet  strong  enough  to  prove  durable 
under   the   continued   strain   of   much 


73 


74 


fishing.  If  the  angler  has  made  his 
own  rod,  as  suggested  in  former  chap- 
ters, he  will  have  a  good  dependable 
fly  rod,  but  the  large  majority  of  an- 
glers who  are  about  to  purchase  their 
first  fishing  kit  should  carefully  con- 
sider the  selection  of  the  rod.  At  the 
outset  it  must  be  understood  that  good 
tackle  is  simply  a  matter  of  price,  the 
finest  rods  and  reels  are  necessarily 
high  in  price,  and  the  same  thing  may 
be  said  of  lines  and  flies.  Providing 
the  angler  has  no  objection  to  paying 
$15,  or  more,  for  a  rod,  the  choice  will 
naturally  fall  upon  the  handmade  split 
bamboo.  For  this  amount  of  money  a 
fair  quality  fly  rod  may  be  purchased, 
the  finer  split  bamboos  costing  any- 
where up  to  $50,  but  under  $15  it  is 
very  doubtful  whether  the  angler  can 
procure  a  built-up  rod  that  is  in  every 
way  satisfactory.  The  question  may 
arise.  Is  a  split-bamboo  rod  necessary? 
The  writer's  own  long  experience  says 
that  it  is  not,  and  that  a  finely  made 
solid-wood  rod,  of  greenheart  or  da- 
game,  is  quite  as  satisfactory  in  the 
hands  of  the  average  angler  as  the 
most  expensive  split  bamboo.  A  good 
rod  of  this  sort  may  be  had  for  $10, 
and  with  reasonable  care  ought  to  last 
a  lifetime. 

The  points  to  look  for  in  a  fly  rod, 
whether  the  material  is  split  bamboo 
or  solid  wood,  is  an  even  taper  from  the 
butt  to  the  tip ;  that  is,  the  rod  should 
register  a  uniform  curve,  or  arc,  the 
entire  length.  For  general  fly  casting 
9  ft.  is  a  handy  length,  and  a  rod  of 
61/2  oz.  weight  will  prove  more  durable 
than  a  lighter  tool.  A  good  elastic 
rod  is  wanted  for  fly  casting,  but  a  too 
willowy  or  whippy  action  had  best  be 
avoided.  However,  for  small-brook 
fishing,  where  the  overgrown  banks 
prohibit  long  casts,  a  somewhat 
shorter  and  stifi^er  rod  will  be  more 
useful.  For  casting  in  large  northern 
streams,  where  the  current  is  swift 
and  the  trout  run  to  a  larger  size,  a 
9I/2  or  10-ft.  rod  of  8  oz.  weight  is  often 
preferred.  Of  course,  the  veteran  an- 
gler can  safely  use  a  much  lighter  rod 
than  the  beginner,  and  one  occasion- 
ally meets  a  man  on  the  stream  that 


uses  a  5-oz.  rod  for  pretty  heavy  fish- 
ing. To  be  on  the  safe  side,  the  novice 
will  make  no  mistake  in  choosing  a 
rod  of  fair  length  and  conservative 
weight. 

When  selecting  a  rod  in  the  tacklfc 
shop,  do  not  rest  content  with  a  mere 
examination  of  the  appearance,  but 
have  the  dealer  affix  a  reel  of  the 
weight  and  size  intended  to  be  used 
with  it.  By  reeling  on  a  short  length 
of  line  and  reeving  it  through  the 
guides  and  then  fastening  the  end  to  a 
weight  lying  upon  the  floor,  a  very 
good  idea  of  the  rod's  behavior  may  be 
gained,  since  by  reeling  in  the  line  and 
putting  tension  on  the  rod  its  elasticity 
and  curve  may  be  seen  and  felt  as  well 
as  in  actual  fishing.  To  give  the  ut- 
most satisfaction,  the  rod  should  fit  its 
owner,  and  several  rods  should  be 
tried  until  one  is  found  that  most  fully 
meets  the  angler's  idea  of  what  a  rod 
should  be.  If  one  happens  to  have  a 
good  fly  reel,  by  all  means  take  it 
along  and  attach  it  to  the  rod  while 
making  the  tests.  It  is  practically  im- 
possible to  gauge  the  balance  of  a  rod 
without  affixing  the  reel,  and  many  a 
finely  balanced  tool  will  appear  badly 
balanced  until  the  proper-weight  reel 
is  affixed  to  it. 

The  Proper  Kind  of  Reel 

For  fly  fishing  nothing  is  so  good  as 
the  English  style  of  click  reel,  which 
is  made  with  a  one-piece  revolving 
side  plate  and  with  the  handle  affixed 
directly  to  it.  Any  kind  of  a  balanced- 
handle  reel  is  an  out-and-out  nuisance 
on  the  fly  rod,  because  it  has  no  advan- 
tage in  quickly  recovering  the  line,  and 
the  projecting  handle  is  forever  catch- 
ing the  line  while  casting.  In  fly  cast- 
ing, the  length  of  cast  is  regulated  by 
tlie  amount  of  line  taken  from  the  reel 
before  the  cast  is  made,  and  it  is  while 
"pumping"  this  slack  line  through  the 
guides,  in  making  the  actual  cast,  that 
the  balanced  or  projecting  handle  is 
very  apt  to  foul  the  line.  A  good  reel 
that  is  smooth-running  like  a  watch 
will  cost  about  $10,  but  a  very  good 
one  may  be  had  for  $5,  and  cheaper 
ones,   while   not   so   durable,   may  be 


75 


used  with  fair  satisfaction.  The  heavier 
multiplying  reels,  so  essential  for  bait 
casting  from  a  free  reel,  are  altogether 
unsuited  for  the  fly  rod,  being  too 
heavy  when  placed  below  the  hand, 
which  is  the  only  proper  position  for 
the  reel  when  fly  casting.  The  single- 
action  click  reel,  having  a  compara- 
tively large  diameter,  but  being  quite 
narrow  between  the  plates,  is  the  one 
to  use,  and  hard  rubber,  or  vulcanite, 
is  a  good  material  for  the  side  plates, 
while  the  trimmings  may  be  of  ger- 
man  silver  or  aluminum.  The  all- 
metal  reel  is  of  about  equal  merit,  but 
whatever  the  material,  the  most  use- 
ful size  is  one  holding  about  40  yd.  of 
No.  E  size  waterproof  line.  A  reel  of 
this  capacity  will  measure  about  3  in. 
in  diameter  and  have  a  width  of  about 
■%  in.  between  plates.  A  narrow- 
spooled  reel  of  this  type  enables  the 
fisherman  to  reel  in  the  line  plenty  fast 
enough.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
reel  is  placed  below  the  grip  on   fly 


rods,  a  rather  light-weight  instrument 
is  needed  to  balance  the  rod.  Of  the 
two  extremes,  it  is  better  to  err  on  the 
side  of  lightness,  because  a  heavy  reel 
makes  a  butt-heavy  rod  and,  throwing 
extra  weight  on  the  wrist  and  arm, 
makes  casting  increasingly  difficult 
after  an  hour's  fishing.  An  old  hand 
at  the  game  will  appreciate  this  point 
better  than  the  novice. 

The  Kind  of  Line  to  Use 

The  fly-casting  1-ine  used  by  a  vet- 
eran is  generally  of  silk,  enameled  and 
having  a  double  taper ;  that  is,  the  line 
is  thickest  in  the  center  and  gradually 
tapers  to  a  smaller  diameter  at  each 
end.  Single-tapered  lines  are  likewise 
extensively  used,  and  while  they  cost 
less,  they  are  tapered  at  one  end  only 
and  cannot  be  reversed  to  equalize  the 
wear  caused  by  casting.  The  level 
line,  which  has  the  same  diameter 
throughout  its  entire  length,  is  the 
line  most  generally  used,  but  the  cast 


76 


cannot  be  so  delicately  made  with  it. 
For  the  beginner,  however,  the  level 
line  in  size  No.  E  is  a  good  choice.  For 
small-brook  fishing,  No.  F  is  plenty 
large  enough.  In  choosing  the  size  of 
line,  there  is  a  common-sense  rule 
among  fly  casters  to  select  a  line  pro- 
portioned to  the  weight  of  the  rod. 
For  a  light  rod  a  light  line  is  the  rule, 
and  for  the  heavier  rod  a  stouter  line 
is  the  logical  choice.  If  the  rod  is  of  a 
too  stiff  action,  use  a  comparatively 
heavy  line,  and  it  will  limber  up  con- 
siderably ;  if  the  rod  is  extremely 
"whippy,"  use  the  lightest  line  that  can 
be  purchased,  and  used  with  safety. 

A  Fine  Leader  Marks  the  Expert  Caster 

The  leader  for  trout  is  preferably  of 
single  gut,  and  as  fine  as  the  angler's 
skill  will  allow.  The  fly  caster's  rule 
is  to  use  a  leader  whose  breaking  strain 
is  less  than  the  line,  then,  when  the 
tackle  parts,  it  is  simply  a  question  of 
putting  on  a  new  leader  and  the  more 
expensive  line  is  saved.  Ready-made 
leaders  may  be  purchased,  or  the  an- 
gler can  tie  them  up  as  desired.  For 
length,  a  3  or  Si/^-ft.  leader  is  about 
right  for  average  fishing.  Longer 
leaders  are  used,  and  while  they  some- 
times are  of  advantage,  the  3-ft.  length 
is  more  useful.  A  longer  leader  is  awk- 
ward to  handle  because  the  loop  is  apt 
to  catch  in  the  top  of  the  rod  when 
reeling  in  tlie  line  to  bring  the  fish  close 
to  the  landing  net.  Leaders  may  be 
had  with  a  loop  at  each  end,  or  with 
loops  tied  in,  for  using  a  cast  of  two 
or  three  flies.  For  all  average  casting, 
the  two-fly  cast  is  the  best,  but  the 
expert  angler  uses  the  single-P.y  very 
often.  For  lake  fishing,  the  single  large 
fly  is  generally  preferred.  For  using 
two  flies,  the  leader  is  provided  with 
three  loops,  one  at  the  top,  another  at 
the  bottom,  and  an  extra  loop  tied  in 
about  15  in.  from  the  lower  loop.  In 
fly  casting,  the  first,  or  upper,  fly  is 
known  as  the  "dropper,"  and  the  lower 
one  as  the  "tail"  fly.  For  the  single- 
fly  cast  but  two  loops  are  required. 

Gut  used  for  leaders  should  be  care- 
fully selected,  and  only  those  lengths 
which    are    of   uniform    diameter   and 


well  rounded  chosen,  the  lengths  which 
show  flat  and  rough  spots  being  dis- 
carded. Dry  gut  that  is  very  brittle 
should  be  handled  very  little,  and  pre- 
\'ious  to  a  day's  fishing  the  leaders 
must  be  soaked  in  water  over  night  to 
make  them  pliable,  then  coiled  in  be- 
tween felt  pads  of  the  leader  box  to 
keep  them  in  fishing  shape.  After  use, 
put  the  frayed  leaders  aside  and  dry 
them  out  between  the  flannel  leaves  of 
the  fly  book. 

Gut  is  the  product  of  the  silkworm, 
and  the  best  quality  is  imported  from 
Spain.  It  comes  in  bundles,  or  hanks, 
of  1,000  strands,  10  to  20  in.  long  and 
in  diiterent  thicknesses,  or  strengths. 
The  heaviest  are  known  as  "Royal" 
and  "Imperial,"  for  salmon  ;  "Marana," 
for  e.xtra-heavy  bass;  "Padron,"  for 
bass ;  "Regular,"  for  heavy  trout ; 
"Fina,"  for  light  trout,  and  "Refina," 
for  extra-light  trout.  The  grades 
"Fina"  and  "Refina"  are  well  suited 
for  all  average  fly  fishing,  while  the 
heavier  sizes  are  useful  for  heavy  large 
fishing. 

To  make  the  leaders,  soak  the 
strands  of  gut  in  warm  water  over 
night  until  they  are  soft  and  pliable. 
Select  the  strands  for  each  leader  of 
the  desired  thickness  and  length  so 
that  the  finished  leader  will  have  a 
slight  taper  to  one  end  only.  By  using 
the  "Fina"  gut  for  the  upper  length 
and  tying  in  two  lengths  of  "Refina" 
gut,  a  nicely  tapered  leader  of  light 
weight  is  obtained.  Begin  the  leader 
by  uniting  the  strands  together  to 
make  it  the  correct  length,  three  12-in. 
strands  being  about  right  for  average 
casting.  The  "single  water  knot"  is 
the  strongest  and  neatest  to  use. 
Make  it  by  taking  the  thick  end  of  the 
strand  and  doubling  it  back  enough 
to  tie  in  a  common  knot  just  large 
enough  for  the  line  to  pass  through 
and  drawing  it  up  tightly.  Tie  a  single 
loose  knot  in  the  other  end  of  the 
strand,  about  %  in.  in  diameter  and 
close  to  the  end ;  take  the  next  thick- 
est strand  of  gut,  thread  the  thicker 
end  through  the  loose  knot  and  tie  a 
second  square  knot  around  the  strand, 
as  shown  at  A.    By  pulling  on  the  two 


77 


long  ends  the  loops  can  be  drawn  up 

tightly,  and  the  two  knots  will   slide 

together   and    make   a    neat  and    very 

Repeat    this  operation 


strong    knot. 


well-known  "angler's  knot"  is  mostly 
used.  This  knot  is  shown  at  C.  The 
snelled  fly  is  attached  by  passing  the 
loop  over  the  loop  of  the   leader  and 


The  Single  Water  Knot  Used  in  Tying  Leaders:  a  Good  Knot  for  Makingthe  Loop  at  the  End  of  the  Leaders; 

an  Angler's  Knot  Used  for  Attaching  the  Line  to  the  Leader,  and  a  Jam  Knot  for  Attaching 

Eyed  Flies,  or  Hooks,  to  the  Leader  or  Snell 


until  as  many  strands  of  gut  are  knot- 
ted together  as  required  to  make  the 
leader  of  the  desired  length.  For  mak- 
ing the  loop  at  the  ends,  a  double- 
bighted  knot,  tied  as  shown  at  B,  is 
used.  If  a  dropper  fly  is  desired,  do 
not  pull  the  water  knot  tightly,  but 
first  insert  a  short  length  of  gut  with  a 
common  knot  at  the  end  and  a  loop  in 
the  other,  then  draw  the  water  knot 
up  tightly,  and  a  short  snell  will  be 
made  for  attaching  the  fly  as  usually. 

Flies  for  Trout  Fishing 

The  Standard  selection  of  artificial 
flies  numbers  about  60,  but  the  aver- 
age fisherman  will  find  about  24  se- 
lected patterns  to  answer  every  need. 
For  making  up  the  most  "killing"  flies 
for  the  trout  season,  the  following  can 
be  recommended :  Use  red  ibis,  stone 
fly,  cinnamon,  red  spinner,  and  parch- 
menee  belle,  for  April ;  turkey  brown, 
yellow  dun,  iron  blue,  spinner,  mont- 
real  and  red  fox,  for  May ;  spider, 
black  gnat,  silver  doctor,  gray  drake, 
orange  dun,  and  green  drake,  for  June ; 
July  dun,  grizzly  king,  pale  evening 
dun,  red  ant,  and  brown  palmer,  for 
July;  Seth  green,  coachman,  shad, 
governor,  August  dun,  and  royal 
coachman,  for  August,  and  black 
palmer,  willow,  whirling  dun,  queen  of 
the  water,  and  blue  bottle,  for  Septem- 
ber. 

To  attach  a  line  to  the  leader  the 


inserting  the  fly  through  the  leader 
loop.  When  eyed  flies  are  used  they 
are  often  attached  direct  to  the  leader, 
or  a  looped  snell  may  be  used  as  in  the 
ordinary  American-tied  fly.  To  attach 
the  eyed  fly  direct  to  the  leader,  the 
common  "jam  knot,"  shown  at  D,  is 
mostly  used,  and  when  the  slipknot  is 
drawn  up  tightly  and  the  extra  end  cut 
ofl:  it  makes  a  small,  neat  knot,  not 
apt  to  slip. 


Catch  to  Hold  Two  Joining  Doors 
Open 

Where  two  open  doors  meet,  a  catch 
to  keep  them 
open  can  be 
made  of  a  piece 
of  wire,  shaped 
as  shown.  The 
hooks  at  the 
ends  of  the  wire 
are  slipped  over 
the  shanks  of 
the  knobs. — 
Contributed  by 
W.  A.  Saul,  Lex- 
ington, Mass. 


CStrips  cut  from 

wood  dishes  used 

by    grocers     for 

butter,    thoroughly 

water,  will  make  excellent  repair  pieces 

for  market  baskets. 


soaked    in    warm 


78 


Bicycle  Oil  Lamp  Changed  to  Electric 
Light 

The  desire  for  an  electric  light  for 
my  bicycle  caused  me  to  change  a  fine 
oil  lamp,  too  good  to  be  thrown  away, 


>-ri 


LJf 


A  Push  Button  with  Socket  and  Miniature  Globe 
Used  in  an  Oil  Lamp  for  Electric  Light 

so  that  an  electric  globe  could  be  used 
in  it.  The  oil  cup  of  the  lamp  was  re- 
moved, and  a  wood  push  button  fas- 
tened in  its  place  with  three  screws. 
Before  fastening  the  push  .button,  a 
porcelain  socket  was  attached  to  its 
bottom,  and  connections  were  made  be- 


tween socket  and  push  button,  ends 
being  left  protruding  for  connection  to 
the  battery.  A  small  flash-light  bat- 
tery was  fastened  to  the  lamp  bracket. 
A  small  rubber  washer  was  placed  be- 
tween the  head  of  the  push  button  on 
the  switch  and  the  cap,  so  that  in 
screwing  the  cap  up,  a  permanent  con- 
nection was  made.  The  lamp  can  be 
used  as  a  lantern  when  removed  from 
the  bicycle.  —  Contributed  by  Lee 
Baker,  Chicago. 


Lifter  for   Removing   Eggs  from  Hot 
Water 

An  impro\ement  over  the  customary 
way  of  removing  eggs  from  hot  water 
with  a  tablespoon,  is  to  use  an  old-fash- 
ioned cofifee  strainer.  This  brings  up 
the  eggs  without  carrying  hot  water 
with  them. — Contributed  by  L.  E. 
Turner,  New  York,  N.  Y. 


CGenuine  oxalic  acid  may  be  used  for 
removing  stains  from  all  woods  except 
mahogany. 


Double  Top  for  a  Table 

The  need  of  two  tables  in  a  kitchen 
where   there  was  space  for  only  one. 


used,  and  an  extra,  plain  top  fitted  to 

it  and  hinged  to  the  wall. 

When  it  was  desired  to  wash  dishes 

on  the  zinc  top,  the  table  was  pulled 

out  without  disturbing  the  articles  on 
the  hinged  top.  After  drying  the 
dishes,  they  are  removed  from  the 
zinc  top  to  the  hinged  part,  and  the 


An  Extra  Top  Covers  the  Table  When  It  is 
Placed  against  the  Wall 

was  the  cause  of  devising  the  ar- 
rangement shown  in  the  illustration. 
An  ordinary  kitchen  table  was  mount- 
ed on  trunk  casters  or  domes  so  that 
it  could  be  moved  easily,  whereupon  a 
zinc  top  was  put  on  it  with  raised 
edges.  The  table  was  then  placed 
against  the   wall   where   it  was   to  be 


The  Table  When  Drawn  Out  Uncovers 
the  Zinc  Tray,  Fastened  on  Top 


table  is  pushed  back  against  the  wall. 
— Contributed  by  Louis  Drummond, 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


As  a  General  Thing,  the  Veteran  Fly  Fisherman  Prefers  to  Wade  with  the  Current,  and  Fishes    the    Water 
in  Front  of  Him  by  Making  Diagonal  Casts  across  the  Stream 

Fishing -Rod  Making  and  Angling 

By  STILLMAN  TAYLOR 
PA'RT  IV — Trout  Fishing  with  Fly  and  Bait 


How  to  Cast  the  Fly 
npO  be  able  to  cast  the  artificial  fly 

•*■  a  distance  of  50  ft.,  or  more,  and 
let  the  feathered  lure  alight  upon  the 
desired  bit  of  water  as  lightly  as  a  fall- 
ing leaf  is  no  small  accomplishment, 
for  fly  casting  is  an  art,  and  to  become 
an  expert,  much  practice  is  necessary. 
The  personal  assistance  of  a  skillful 
caster  is  not  often  available,  but  if  the 
angler  will  follow  the  suggestions  out- 
lined, a  beginner  will  soon  grasp  the 
knack  of  handling  the  fly  rod,  and  the 
casting  will  steadily  improve  with 
practice.  As  the  knack  of  handling  a 
gun  is  best  gained — not  in  the  field, 
shooting  live  game,  but  through  shoot- 
ing at  targets — so  may  the  art  of  fly 
casting  be  more  quickly  acquired  by 
intelligent  practice  conducted  away 
from  the  stream,  in  the  back  yard,  or 
any  other  place  roomy  enough  to  swing 
the  rod  and  a  moderately  long  line.  By 
practicing  in  this  way,  the  angler's  at- 
tention is  focused  upon  the  cast  and  is 
not  partly  occupied  with  the  excite- 
ment of  fishing.  To  make  a  good  be- 
ginning, let  the  reel  contain  about  2.5 
yd.  of  common,  braided,  linen  line  (size 
E  is  about  right)  and  instead  of  a  fly, 
or  hook,  affix  a  small  split  shot  to  the 
end  of  the  line.  It  is  well  to  begin  with 
a  cheap  rod  and  save  a  good  outfit, 

and  if  the  angler  learns  how  to  make 
a  fairly  long  and  accurate  cast  with  a 
common  rod,  he  may  feel  assured  that 


he  can  even  do  better  with  a  first-rate 
outfit. 

The  first  point  to  observe  in  making 
the  cast  is  to  grip  the  rod  correctly, 
and  this  is  done  by  grasping  the  rod 
at  the  right  point  where  it  balances 
best.  By  shifting  the  hand  about, 
this  point  of  balance  is  quickly 
found,  for  at  no  other  point  will 
the  rod  "hang"  well  in  the  hand. 
In  casting,  the  reel  is  turned  to 
the  under  side  of  the  rod  with 
the  thumb  extended  along  the 
top  of  the  grip,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1.  Taking  up  an  easy 
casting  position,  with 
the  left  foot  slightly 
advanced,  pull 
from  the  reel 


^^itni[iii(ij 


Fig.  1- 
The  Proper  Way 
to  Take  Hold 
of  the  Handle 
with  the  Reel  on 
the    Under  Side 


about  25  yd.  of  line  and  let  this  slack 
line  fall  in  coils  upon  the  ground  in 
front ;  bring  the  rod  up  slightly  above 
the  horizontal,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  and 
with  a  quick  snap  of  the  wrist,  avoid- 
ing shoulder  or  body  movement,  throw 
the  tip  upward,  checking  it  sharply  as 


79 


80 


soon  as  the  tip  is  carried  over  the  shoul- 
der about  25°  beyond  the  vertical  plane 
as  in  Fig.  3.  This  snappy  upstroke  of 
the  rod  makes  the  "back  cast,"  by  pro- 
jecting the  line  high  in  the  air,  and 
carries  it  well  behind  the  angler.  Be- 
fore the  line  has  fully  straightened  out 
behind,  and  before  it  has  an  oppor- 
tunity to  fall  much  below  the  caster's 
shoulders,  the  rod  is  snapped  forward 
with  a  quick  wrist-and-forearm  move- 
ment, which  throws  the  line  forward  in 
front  of  the  fisherman  and  in  the  direc- 
tion he  is  facing,  which  finishes  the 
cast  with  the  rod 
in  the  po  s  i  t  i  o  n 
shown  in  Fig.  4. 

Long  and  accu- 
rate fly  casting  is 
much  more  a  mat- 
ter of  skill  than 
muscle,  and  while 
some  fly  fishermen 
cast  directly  from 
the  shoulder  and 
upper  arm,  and 
thus  use  a  consid- 
erable amount  of 
muscular  force  in 
making  the  cast, 
this  cannot  be  re- 
garded as  the  best 
method  of  casting. 
The  great  elastic- 
ity of  the  fly  rod 
ought  to  be  taken 
full  advantage  of 
by  the  caster,  and 
if  this  is  done, 
casting  will  be 
naturally  accom- 
plished by  the  wrist  and  forearm.  To 
make  strenuous  efforts  to  hurl  the  fly 
through  the  air,  using  an  arm  or  body 
movement,  is  extremely  tiring  after  an 
hour  or  so  of  fishing,  while  if  the  cast 
is  made  from  the  wrist,  aided  by  the 
forearm,  the  snap  of  the  rod  may  be 
depended  upon  to  project  the  fly  to 
greater  length  of  line  and  allow  it  to 
fall  close  to  the  desired  spot,  lightly 
and  without  splashing. 

Timing  the  back  cast  is  the  most 
difficult  detail  of  fly  casting,  because 
the  line  is  behind  the  angler  and  the 


eye  cannot  aid  the  hand.  The  novice 
will  soon  acquire  the  knack  of  casting, 
however,  if  he  will  remember  to  keep 
the  elbow  close  to  the  side,  and  to 
keep  the  line  well  up  in  the  air  when 
making  the  back  cast,  and  to  begin  the 
forward  movement  before  the  line  has 
fully  straightened  out  behind  him. 
After  a  little  practice,  the  hand  will 
feel  the  slight  tension  communicated 
to  the  rod  as  the  line  begins  to 
straighten  out,  and  this  should  be 
taken  advantage  of  to  correctly  time 
the  forward  movement.  Counting 
"one"  for  the  up- 
stroke, "two  and" 
for  the  interval  re- 
quired for  the  line 
to  straighten  out 
in  the  rear,  and 
"three"  for  the 
forward  move- 
ment, is  also  a 
good  way  to  time 
the  cast. 

At  the  begin- 
ning the  caster 
should  make  no 
attempt  to  secure 
distance.  A  c  c  u- 
racy  and  delicacy 
in  placing  the  fly 
on  the  water  is  of 
much  more  im- 
portance than 
length  of  cast  in 
trout  fishing,  and 
to  attain  this  end, 
it  is  a  good  plan 
to  place  a  news- 
paper about  23  ft. 
distant  and  try  to  drop  the  end  of  the 
line  on  this  mark.  When  the  caster 
can  drop  the  line  on  the  target  lightly 
and  with  reasonable  accuracy,  he  may 
feel  justified  in  lengthening  his  cast. 
Other  casts  than  the  overhead  cast  just 
described  are  occasionally  used,  as  the 
Spey,  switch,  wind,  and  flip  casts,  but 
the  overhead  cast  is  mostly  used,  al- 
though it  is  much  more  difficult  to 
master. 

To  make  the  Spey  cast,  the  angler 
requires  a  rapid  stream  which  will 
carry  the  line  downstream  until  it  is 


Fig.  2— Begin  the  Cast  with  the  Rod  in  a  Position 
Just  above  the  Horizontal  Plane 


81 


Straight  and  taut,  the  tip  of  the  rod 
being  held  as  long  as  possible  to  ac- 
complish this  end.  The  rod  is  then 
raised  high  in  the  air  with  a  quick 
wrist  movement,  which  lifts  the  line 
from  the  water  to  the  extreme  end, 
then  without  pausing  the  rod  is  car- 
ried upstream  with  just  sufficient  force 
to  let  the  fly  fall  just  above  the  angler. 
The  line  is  now  on  the  reverse,  or  up- 
per, side  of  the  fisherman,  when  with 
a  sweep  of  the  rod 
the  line  is  pro- 
jected over  the 
water's  surface — 
not  along  the  sur- 
face— in  the  man- 
ner used  in  mak- 
ing the  overhead 
cast. 

The  switch  cast 
is  sometimes  use- 
ful when  trees  or 
rocks  are  immedi- 
ately back  of  the 
fisherman,  thus 
preventing  the 
line  from  extend- 
ing far  enough 
backward  to 
make  the  over- 
head cast.  In  mak- 
ing this  cast  the 
line  is  not  lifted 
from  the  water, 
but  merely  to  the 
surface  by  raising 
the  tip  of  the  rod. 
The  line  is 
dragged  through 
the  water  by  car- 
rying the  tip  in 
the  direction  one 
is    standing    until 

it  is  as  far  in  the  rear  as  the  obstruc- 
tions will  permit.  By  a  quick  down- 
ward sweep  of  the  rod  the  line  is  pro- 
jected with  sufficient  force  to  roll  it 
forward  in  a  large  coil  or  loop,  much 
as  a  wheel  rolls  on  a  track. 

The  wind  cast  is  a  modification  of 
the  switch  cast,  but  easier  to  make. 
The  caster  brings  his  line  almost  to 
his  feet,  and  with  a  quick  downward 
motion  of  the  rod  the  line  is  thrown 


Fig.  3— The  Rod  is  Quickly  Cliecked  When  It  is 
Carried  over  the  Shoulder  About  25  Degrees 


in  a  long  loop  against  the  wind.  The 
underhand  and  the  flip  casts  are  so 
simple  that  it  seems  almost  unnec- 
essary to  describe  them.  Both  are 
short  casts  and  are  only  used  when  the 
angler  is  fishing  in  an  overgrown 
stream.  The  underhand  cast  is  really 
a  side  cast,  inasmuch  as  the  short  line 
is  lifted  from  the  water  in  a  loop  and 
propelled  in  the  desired  direction  by  a 
side  sweep  of  the  rod.  The  flip  cast 
is  made  by  hold- 
ing the  fly  be- 
tween the  thumb 
and  finger  and 
with  a  few  coils 
of  line  in  the  right 
hand.  Bend  the 
rod  like  a  bow,  re- 
lease the  fly  sud- 
denly, and  the 
snap  of  the  rod 
will  project  it  in 
the  desired  direc- 
tion and  allow  it 
to  drop  lightly 
like  a  fly. 

Handling  the  Flies  in 
the  Water 

As  a  general 
thing  the  veteran 
fly  fisherman  pre- 
fers to  wade  with 
the  current  and 
fishes  the  water  in 
front  of  him  by 
making  diagonal 
casts  across  the 
stream.  A  good 
fisherman  will 
system  atically 
cover  every  inch 
of  good  water  and 
little  will  be  left  to  chance.  The  novice 
is  inclined  to  fish  his  flies  in  a  con- 
trary manner,  he  casts  more  or  less  at 
random,  and  is  as  likely  to  splash  the 
flies  recklessly  about  in  the  most  im- 
possible places  as  he  is  to  drop  them 
in  a  favorable  rififfe  or  pool.  To  be  able 
to  pick  out  fishable  water,  the  angler 
should  know  something  about  the 
habits  of  the  trout,  their  characteristics 
at  the  several  seasons  of  the  fishing 


year,  and  their  habits,  which  differ 
greatly  in  different  streams.  A  fish- 
ing knowledge  of  the  stream  to  be 
visited  is  of  much  value,  but  if  the 
angler  knows  how  to  make  a  fair  cast 
and  possesses  average  skill  in  handling 
flies  on  water,  there  should  be  no  ques- 
tion but  that  he  will  creel  a  fair  num- 
ber of  trout  even  though  he  casts  in 
strange  waters. 

To  imitate  the  action  of  the  natural 
insect  is  the  most  successful  manner  of 
fishing  the  flies,  and  as  the  natural  fly 
will  struggle  more  or  less  when  borne 
down  with  the 
current,  the  fisher- 
man endeavors  to 
duplicate  this 
movement  by 
making  his  arti- 
ficial fly  wriggle 
about.  This  mo- 
tion must  not  be 
overdone,  for  if 
the  flies  are 
tw  i  t  c  h  e  d  and 
skipped  about,  or 
pulled  against  the 
current,  the  wary 
trout  will  refuse  to 
fall  for  any  such 
obvious  deceit.  A 
gentle  motion  of 
the  wrist  will 
cause  the  fly  to 
move  somewhat 
as  the  natural  in- 
sect will  struggle. 

In  making  the 
cast  do  not  cast 
directly  down  or 
upstream,  but  across  the  current  at  an 
angle.  Let  the  flies  fall  upon  the 
water  as  lightly  as  possible,  so  that  the 
water  will  carry  them  downstream 
over  the  likely  places  where  the  trout 
are  hiding.  Keep  the  line  as  taut  as 
possible  by  drawing  the  slack  in  with 
the  left  hand.  The  flies  should  not 
be  allowed  to  soak  in  the  water, 
neither  should  they  be  retrieved  in 
haste.  The  experienced  fly  caster  will 
invariably  fish  with  a  wet  line,  that  is 
to  say,  with  a  slightly  submerged  fly, 
and  will  let  the  flies  drag  over  as  much 


Fig.  4 — The  Cast  is  Finished  by  Throwing  the  Line 
Forward  with  a  Quick  Wrist-and-Forearm  Movement 


water  as  possible  before  making  a  sec- 
ond cast.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  trout 
lie  with  their  noses  pointing  upstream 
awaiting  their  food  carried  down  by 
the  current,  the  caster  will  naturally 
take  pains  to  float  his  flies  down- 
stream with  the  leader  fairly  taut.  To 
neglect  this  detail  and  allow  the  leader 
to  float  in  a  wide  loop  near  or  before 
the  flies  is  slovenly  fishing,  and  few 
trout  will  strike  a  fly  presented  in  this 
amateurish  fashion. 

Early  in  the  fishing  season,  and  when 
the  stream  is  flooded  and  discolored 
after  a  heavy  rain, 
it  is  a  good  plan  to 
fish  the  flies  be- 
low the  surface. 
Fishing  in  this 
manner  makes  it 
more  difficult  to 
tell  when  to  strike 
a  fish,  and  some 
little  practice  is 
needed  to  deter- 
mine the  oppor- 
tune moment  by 
feeling  the  slight 
tension  on  the 
line.  Many  fish 
will  be  pricked  to 
be  sure,  but  some 
trout  will  be 
creeled,  and  fish- 
ing with  the  sub- 
merged  fly  is 
sometimes  the 
only  way  trout 
can  be  taken. 

On  fair  days 
and  in  smooth 
water,  better  luck  may  be  expected 
when  the  fly  is  kept  upon  the  surface, 
and  this  is  easily  managed  by  keep- 
ing the  tip  of  the  rod  well  in  the  air. 
often  the  fisherman  can  take  advan- 
tage of  a  bit  of  floating  foam,  and  if 
the  fly  is  cast  upon  it  and  allowed  to 
float  with  it  downstream,  the  ruse  will 
often  prove  effective. 

The  trout  is  a  hard  striker  and  it  is 
not  unusual  to  have  a  trout  rush  ahead 
of  the  fly  in  his  attempt  to  mouth  it. 
In  rapid  water  the  savage  rush  of  the 
fish   is   sufficient   to   hook   it   securely, 


S3 


but  when  casting  in  quiet  pools,  the 
hook  is  imbedded  by  a  snap  of  the 
wrist.  At  what  exact  moment  to 
strike,  as  well  as  the  amount  of  force 
to  use,  depends  upon  circumstances. 
When  fishing  in  small  streams  and 
brooks  where  the  trout  run  small, 
much  less  force  is  necessary  to  hook 
the  fish,  but  in  quiet  water  and  in 
larger  streams  where  2  or  3-lb.  trout 
are  not  uncommon,  the  fish  may  be 
struck  with  a  smart  upward  jerk  of  the 
forearm  and  wrist.  So  far  as  my  ex- 
perience goes,  the  matter  of  striking 
is  governed  by  the  temperament  as 
well  as  the  judgment  of  the  angler. 
The  deliberate  thinking  man  is  likely 
to  strike  too  late,  while  the  nervous 
individual,  striking  too  early,  is  apt  to 
prick  the  trout  and  roll  him  over. 

The  best  time  to  fish  for  trout  is 
when  they  are  feeding  on  the  surface ; 
and  in  the  early  days  of  spring,  when 
there  are  few  flies  about,  the  warmer 
part  of  the  day,  say,  from  10  in  the 
morning  to  5  in  the  afternoon,  will 
prove  to  be  the  most  successful  time. 
Later  on,  when  flies  are  numerous, 
good  luck  may  be  expected  at  an  early 
hour  in  the  morning,  and  in  the  hot 
summer  months  the  cooler  hours  of 
the  day  may  be  chosen.  Of  course, 
there  are  many  exceptions,  since  there 
are  many  cool  days  in  summer,  as  well 
as  exceptionally  warm  days  in  spring, 
and  these  changes  of  weather  should 
be  considered.  However,  extremes  are 
not  likely  to  make  good  fishing,  and 
the  trout  will  not  rise  as  freely  on  cold, 
windy  days,  nor  will  they  fight  as 
gamely.  On  hot  days,  too,  not  so 
much  luck  can  be  expected  during  the 
hours  of  the  greatest  heat — 13  to  4 — 
but  a  good  basket  of  trout  may  be 
creeled  early  in  the  morning  or  late 
in  the  afternoon  of  summer.  A  bright, 
clear  day  is  usually  the  best  for  fly 
fishing,  because  the  sun  brings  out 
more  flies,  but  a  warm  rain,  or  even  a 
fog,  is  also  considered  good  fishing 
weather. 

Among  the  live  baits  available  for 
trout  fishing  are  the  minnow,  white 
grub,  cricket,  grasshopper,  and  other 
insects,  and  last,  but  by  no  means  least. 


the  common  angle  or  earthworm.  The 
minnow  is  beyond  a  doubt  the  most 
enticing  morsel  that  can  be  offered  to  a 
hungry  trout,  and  a  minnow  may  be 
reckoned  to  secure  a  rise  when  other 
baits  fail.  The  inconvenience  of  trans- 
porting this  bait  is  a  great  drawback, 
and  as  minnows  are  delicate  fish,  a 
minnow  bucket  is  necessary  for  their 
preservation.  This  means  a  lot  of 
trouble,  as  the  water  must  be  fre- 
quently changed  or  aerated,  and  this 
labor,  together  with  the  difficulty  of 
carrying  a  bulky  pail  through  the 
brush,  makes  this  desirable  bait  almost 
impossible  for  stream  and  brook  fish- 
ing. The  salt-water  minnow,  known 
as  a  "shiner"  or  "mummychug,"  is  a 
topnotch  trout  bait,  and  being  much 
tougher  than  the  fresh-water  minnow, 
makes  a  bait  often  used  by  anglers  re- 
siding near  the  seacoast. 

The  white  grub,  or  larvae  of  the  so- 
called  May  beetle,  is  a  good  bait  avail- 
able for  early-season  fishing,  and  may 
be  obtained  in  the  early  spring  months 
by  spading  up  grass  land.  The  grub 
is  about  1  in.  long,  and  of  a  creamy 
yellow  color  with  a  darker  head.  It 
may  be  kept  a  month,  or  more,  by  put- 
ting it  in  a  box  with  a  number  of 
pieces  of  fresh  turf. 

Crickets,  grasshoppers,  and  many 
other  insects,  make  good  baits,  while 
the  earthworm  is  a  good  all-around 
bait  for  trout.  A  supply  dug  some 
days  before  and  kept  by  packing  in 
fresh  moss  and  slightly  moistening 
with  milk  and  water  will  prove  more 
attractive  in  appearance  and  the  worms 
will  be  tougher  and  cleaner  to  handle 
than  when  carried  in  earth. 

Other  good  baits  include  the  fin  of 
a  trout,  and  if  this  is  used  in  combi- 
nation with  the  eye  of  the  same  fish, 
it  forms  an  attractive  lure.  In  using 
this  bait,  do  not  puncture  the  eyeball, 
but  hook  through  the  thin  flexible  skin 
surrounding  the  eye.  A  fat  piece  of 
salt  pork,  cut  into  pieces  1  in.  long 
and  1/4  in.  wide,  makes  a  fairly  good 
bait.  Spoons  and  other  spinning  baits 
are  presumably  attractive,  but  few 
sportsmen  use  them  when  angling  for 
so  fine  a  fish  as  trout. 


84 


B^^       ioi^>v    A  .  P  ( M  C  flOl^^^s^ 


[In  this  article  descriptions  are  given  of  several  shelters  suitable  for  a  resort,  but  the  reader 
may  select  any  one  of  them  that  answers  his  needs  and  build  a  camp  house,  or  fit  up  a  more 
substantial  one  to  make  living  quarters  for  the  whole  year.  —  Editor.] 


"DEING  forced  to  take  the  open-air 
-'-'  treatment  to  regain  health,  a  per- 
son adopted  the  plan  of  building  a  pole 
house  in  the  woods,  and  the  scheme  was 
so  successful  that  it  was  decided  to 
make  a  resort  grounds,  to  attract 
crowds  during  holidays,  by  which  an 
income  could  be  realized  for  living  ex- 
penses. All  the  pavilions,  stands,  fur- 
niture, and  amusement  devices  were 
constructed  of  straight  poles  cut  from 
young  growth  of  timber  with  the  bark 
remaining  on  them.  Outside  of  boards 
for  flooring  and  roofing  material,  the 
entire  construction  of  the  buildings  and 
fences  consisted  of  poles. 

A  level  spot  was  selected  and  a  house 


built  having  three  rooms.  The  location 
was  in  a  grove  of  young  timbers,  most 
of  it  being  straight,  and  13  trees  were 
easily  found  that  would  make  posts  13 
ft.  long,  required  for  the  sides,  and  two 
poles  IG  ft.  long,  for  the  center  of  the 
ends,  so  that  they  would  reach  to  the 
ridge.  The  plot  was  laid  out  rectangu- 
lar and  marked  for  the  poles,  which 
were  set  in  the  ground  for  a  depth  of  4 
ft.,  at  distances  of  6  ft.  apart.  This 
made  the  house  8  ft.  high  at  the  eaves 
with  a  square  pitch  roof ;  that  is,  the 
ridge  was  3  ft.  high  in  the  center  from 
the  plate  surfaces  for  this  width  of  a 
house.  The  rule  for  finding  this  height 
is  to  take  one-quarter  of  the  width  of 


The  Frame  Construction  of  the  House  Made  Entirely  of  Rough  Poles,  the  Verticals  being    Set   in    the 
Ground,  Plumbed,  and  Sighted  to  Make  a  Perfect  Rectangle  of  the  Desired  Proportions 


85 


86 


the  house  for  the  height  in  the  center 
from  the  plate. 

The  corner  poles  were  carefull)-  lo- 


The  Steps  are  Supported  on   Pairs  ot    Verlital  Poles 
Set  in  the  Ground  to  Make  Different  Levels 

cated  to  make  the  size  12  by  24  ft.,  with 
a  lean-to  8  by  12  ft.,  and  then  plumbed 
to  get  them  straight  vertically.  The 
plates  for  the  sides,  consisting  of  five 
poles,  were  selected  as  straight  as  pos- 
sible and  their  ends  and  centers  hewn 
down  to  about  one-half  their  thickness, 
as  shown  at  A  and  B,  and  nailed  to  the 
tops  of  the  vertical  poles,  the  connec- 
tion for  center  poles  being  as  shown 
at  C. 

The  next  step  was  to  secure  the  ver- 
tical poles  with  crosspieces  between 
them  which  were  used  later  for  support- 
ing the  siding.  These  poles  were  cut 
about  6  ft.  long,  their  ends  being  cut 
concave  to  fit  the  curve  of  the  upright 
poles,  as  shown  at  D.  These  were 
spaced  evenly,  about  3  ft.  apart  from 
center  to  center,  on  the  sides  and  ends, 
as  shown  in  the  sketch,  and  toenailed 
in  place.  The  doors  and  window  open- 
ings were  cut  in  the  horizontal  poles 
wherever  wanted,  and  casements  set 
in  and  nailed.  The  first  row  of  horizon- 
tal poles  was  placed  close  to  the  ground 


and  used  both  as  support  for  the  lower 
ends  of  the  siding  and  to  nail  the  ends 
of  the  flooring  boards  to,  which  were 
fastened  in  the  center  to  poles  laid  on 
stones,  or,  better  still,  placed  on  top  of 
short  blocks.  5  ft.  long,  set  in  the 
ground.  These  poles  for  the  floor 
should  be  placed  not  over  2  ft.  apart 
to  make  the  flooring  solid. 

A  lean-to  was  built  by  setting  three 
poles  at  a  distance  of  8  ft.  from  one 
side,  beginning  at  the  center  and  ex- 
tending to  the  end  of  the  main  building. 
These  poles  were  about  6  ft.  long  above 
the  ground.  The  rafter  poles  for  this 
part  were  about  Oy^  ft.  long,  notched 
at  both  ends  for  the  plates,  the  ends  of 
the  house  rafters  being  sawed  off  even 
with  the  outside  of  the  plate  along  this 
edge.  The  rafter  poles  for  the  house 
were  10  in  all,  8  ft.  long,  and  were  laid 
off  and  cut  to  fit  a  ridge  made  of  a 
board.  These  poles  were  notched 
about  15  in.  from  their  lower  ends  to 
fit  over  the  rounding  edge  of  the  plate 
pole,  and  were  then  placed  directly  over 
each  vertical  wall  pole.  They  were 
nailed  both  to  the  plate  and  to  the 
ridge,  also  further  strengthened  by  a 
brace  made  of  a  piece  of  board   or  a 

SS3  E 


Gate  Openings  were  Made  in  the  Fence  Where 

Necessary,  and  Gates  of  Poles  Hung 

in  the  Ordinary  Manner 

small  pole,  placed  under  the  Tidge  and 
nailed  to  both  rafters.  On  top  of  the 
rafters  boards  were  placed  horizontally, 
spaced   about   1   ft.   apart,  but   this   is 


87 


optional  with  the  builder,  as  other  roof-  railing.  It  is  very  easy  to  make  orna- 
ing  material  can  be  used.  In  this  mental  parts,  such  as  shown,  on  the 
instance  metal  roofing  was  used,  and       eave  of  the  porch,  by  splitting  sticks 


%r^' 


^^iiw'    .I'll 


it  only  required  fastening  at  intervals, 
and  to  prevent  rusting  out,  it  was  well 
painted  on  the  under  side  before  laying 
it  and  coated  on  the  outside  when  fas- 
tened in  place.  If  a  more  substantial 
shelter  is  wanted,  it  is  best  to  lay  the 
roof  solid  with  boards,  then  cover  it 
with  the  regular  prepared  roofing 
material. 

Some  large  trees  were  selected  and 
felled,  then  cut  into  4-ft.  lengths  and 
the  bark  removed,  or  if  desired,  the 
bark  removed  in  4-ft.  lengths,  and 
nailed  on  the  outside  of  the  poles, 
beginning  at  the  bottom  in  the  same 
manner  as  laying  shingles,  to  form  the 
siding  of  the  house.  If  a  more  substan- 
tial house  is  wanted,  boards  can  be 
nailed  on  the  poles,  then  the  bark  fast- 
ened to  the  boards;  also,  the  interior 
can  be  finished  in  wall  board. 

The  same  general  construction  is 
used  for  the  porch,  with  horizontal 
poles  latticed,  as  shown,  to  form  the 


All  Furniture,  Together  with  the  Large  Lawn 
Swings,  Took  on  the  General  Appearance  of  the 
Woodland,  and  As  the  Pieces  were  Made  Up 
of  the  Same  Material  As  the  Houses,  the 
Cost  Was   Only  the    Labor    and    a    Few    Nails 


and  nailing  them  on  closely  together 
to  make  a  frieze.  Floors  are  laid  on  the 
porch  and  in  the  house,  and  doors  hung 
and  window  sash  fitted  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  an  ordinary  house. 

A  band  stand  was  constructed  on 
sloping  ground,  and  after  setting  the 
poles,  the  floor  horizontals  were  placed 
about  2  ft.  above  the  ground,  on  the 
upper  side,  and  4  ft.  on  the  lower  side. 
I'he  poles  used  were  about  18  ft.  long. 
Instead  of  having  the  horizontals  3  ft. 
apart,  the  first  was  placed  1  ft.  above 
the  floor,  the  next  at  about  one-half  the 
distance  from  the  lower  one  to  the  plate 
at  the  top,  and  the  space  between  was 
ornamented  with  cross  poles,  as  shown. 
iV  balcony  or  bay  was  constructed  at 
one  end,  and  a  fancy  roof  was  made  of 
poles  whose  ends  rested  on  a  curved 
pole  attached  to  the  vertical  pieces. 
Steps  were  formed  of  several  straight 
poles,  hewn  down  on  their  ends  to  make 
a  level  place  to  rest  on  horizontal  pieces 


88 


attached  to  stakes  at  the  ends.  A  pair 
of  stakes  were  used  at  each  end  of  a 
step,  and  these  were  fastened  to  a  slant- 
ing piece  at  the  top,  their  lower  ends 
being  set  into  the  ground.  The  manner 
of  bracing  and  crossing  with  horizon- 
tals makes  a  rigid  form  of  construction, 
and  if  choice  poles  are  selected  for  the 
step  pieces,  they  will  be  comparatively 
level  and  of  sufficient  strength  to  hold 
up  all  the  load  put  on  them.  The  roof 
of  this  building  was  made  for  a   sun 


TOP  OF   POST 


■-|#,'K 


,^4^>^Wi 


The  Entrance  to  the  Grounds  was  Given  an  Inviting 
Appearance  with  Large  Posts  and  Swinging  Gates 

shade    only    and    consisted    of    boards 
nailed  closely  together  on  the  rafters. 

An  ice-cream  parlor  was  built  on  the 
same  plan,  but  without  any  board  floor ; 
the  ground,  being  level,  was  used 
instead.  There  were  five  vertical  poles 
used  for  each  end  with  a  space  left 
between  the  two  poles  at  the  center,  on 
both  sides,  for  an  entrance.  This  build- 
ing was  covered  with  prepared  roofing. 


so  that  the  things  kept  for  sale  could 
be  protected  in  case  of  a  shower. 

A  peanut  stand  was  also  built  with- 
out a  floor,  and  to  make  it  with  nine 
sides,  nine  poles  were  set  in  the  ground 
to  form  a  perfect  nonagon  and  joined 
at  their  tops  with  latticed  horizontals. 
Then  a  rafter  was  run  from  the  top  of 
each  post  to  the  center,  and  boards  were 
fitted  on  each  pair  of  rafters  over  the 
V-shaped  openings.  The  boards  were 
then  covered  with  prepared  roofing. 
A  railing  was  formed  of  horizontals 
set  in  notches,  cut  in  the  posts,  and  then 
ornamented  in  the  same  manner  as  for 
the  other  buildings. 

Fences  were  constructed  about  the 
grounds,  made  of  pole  posts  with  hori- 
zontals on  top,  hewn  down  and  fitted 
as  the  plates  for  the  house ;  and  the 
lower  pieces  were  set  in  the  same  as 
for  making  the  house  railing.  Gates 
were  made  of  two  vertical  pieces,  the 
height  of  the  posts,  and  two  horizon- 
tals, then  braced  with  a  piece  running 
from  the  lower  corner  at  the  hinge  side 
to  the  upper  opposite  corner,  the  other 
cross  brace  being  joined  to  the  sides  of 
the  former,  whereupon  two  short  hori- 
zontals were  fitted  in  the  center.  A 
blacksmith  formed  some  hinges  of  rods 
and  strap  iron,  as  shown,  and  these 
were  fastened  in  holes  bored  in  the  post 
and  the  gate  vertical.  A  latch  was  made 
by  boring  a  hole  through  the  gate  ver- 
tical and  into  the  end  of  the  short  piece. 
Then  a  slot  was  cut  in  the  side  to  re- 
ceive a  pin  inserted  in  a  shaft  made  to 
fit  the  horizontal  hole.  A  keeper  was 
made  in  the  post  by  boring  a  hole  to 
receive  the  end  of  the  latch. 

Large  posts  were  constructed  at  the 
entrance  to  the  grounds,  and  on  these 
double  swing  gates,  made  up  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  small  one,  were 
attached.  These  large  posts  were  built 
up  of  four  slender  poles  and  were  con- 
siderably higher  than  the  fence  poles. 
The  poles  were  set  in  a  perfect  square, 
having  sides  about  18  in.  long,  and  a 
square  top  put  on  by  mitering  the  cor- 
ners, whereupon  four  small  rafters  were 
fitted  on  top.  The  gates  were  swung 
on  hinges  made  like  those  for  the  small 
gate. 


89 


Among  the  best  and  most  enjoyed 
amusement  devices  on  the  grounds 
were  the  swings.  Several  of  these  were 
built,  with  and  without  tables.  Four 
poles,  about  20  ft.  long,  were  set  in  the 
ground  at  an  angle,  and  each  pair  of 
side  poles  was  joined  with  two  horizon- 
tals, about  13  ft.  long,  spreaders  being 
fastened  between  the  two  horizontals 
to  keep  the  tops  of  the  poles  evenly 
spaced.  The  distance  apart  of  the  poles 
will  depend  on  the  size  of  the  swing 
and  the  number  of  persons  to  be  seated. 
Each  pair  of  side  poles  are  further 
strengthened  with  crossed  poles,  as 
shown.  If  no  table  is  to  be  used  in 
the  swing,  the  poles  may  be  set  closer 
together,  so  that  the  top  horizontals 
will  be  about  8  ft.  long.  The  platform 
for  the  swinging  part  consists  of  two 
poles,  12  ft.  long,  which  are  swung  on 
six  vertical  poles,  about  14  ft.  long. 
These  poles  are  attached  to  the  top  hor- 


izontals with  long  bolts,  or  rods,  run- 
ning through  both,  the  bottom  being 
attached  in  the  same  manner.  Poles 
are  nailed  across  the  platform  horizon- 
tals at  the  bottom  for  a  floor,  and  a 
table  with  seats  at  the  ends  is  formed 
of  poles.    The  construction  is  obvious. 

A  short  space  between  two  trees  can 
be  made  into  a  seat  by  fastening  two 
horizontals,  one  on  each  tree,  with  the 
ends  supported  by  braces.  Poles  are 
nailed  on  the  upper  surface  for  a  seat. 

Other  furniture  for  the  house  and 
grounds  was  made  of  poles  in  the  man- 
ner illustrated.  Tables  were  built  for 
picnickers  by  setting  four  or  six  poles 
in  the  ground  and  making  a  top  of  poles 
or  boards.  Horizontals  were  placed 
across  the  legs  with  extending  ends,  on 
which  seats  were  made  for  the  tables. 
Chairs  and  settees  were  built  in  the 
same  manner,  poles  being  used  for  the 
entire  construction. 


An   Electric   Water   Heater 


Procure  the  barrel  and  cap  from  a 
hand  bicycle  pump  and  prepare  them 
as  follows  :  Make  a  tube  of  paper,  about 
double  the  thickness  of  a  postal  card, 
to  fit  snugly  in  the  pump  barrel  and  oil 
it  slightly  before  slipping  it  into  place. 
Procure  some  resistance  wire  of  the 
proper  length  and  size  to  heat  quickly. 
The  wire  can  be  tested  out  by  coiling  it 
on  some  nonconducting  material,  such 
as  an  earthen  jug  or  glazed  tile,  and 
connecting  one  end  to  the  current 
supply  and  running  the  other  wire  of 
the  supply  over  the  coil  until  it  heats 
properly.  Cut  the  resistance  at  this 
point  and  temporarily  coil  it  to  fit  into 
the  bottom  of  the  pump  barrel,  allowing 
one  end  to  extend  up  through  the  space 
in  the  center  with  sufficient  length  to 
make  a  connection  to  supply  wires. 

Mix  some  dental  plaster  to  the  con- 
sistency of  thick  cream  and,  while  keep- 
ing the  wire  in  the  center  of  the  pump 
barrel,  pour  in  the  mixture  until  it  is 
filled  to  within  ly^  i"-  of  the  top.  Al- 
low the  plaster  to  set  for  about  a  day, 
then  remove  it  from  the  barrel  and  take 
off  the  paper  roll.    The  coil  of  wire  at 


the  bottom  is  now  straightened  out  and 
wound  in  a  coil  over  the  outside  of  the 
plaster  core,  allowing  sufficient  end  for 
connecting  to  the  supply  wires. 

Cut  two  or  three  disks  of  mica  to 
fit  snugly  in  the  bottom  of  the  pump 
barrel,  also  cut  a  mica  sheet  to  make  a 
covering  tube  over  the  coil  on  the  plas- 
ter core  and  insert  the  whole  into  the 
barrel.  The  two  terminals  are  con- 
nected to  the  ends  of  a  flexible  cord 
wdiich  has  a  plug  attached  to  the  oppo- 
site end.  Be  sure  to  insulate  the  ends 
of  the  wire  where  they  connect  to  the 
flexible  cord  inside  of  the  pump  barrel 
under  the  cap.     In  winding  the  resist- 


An  Electric  Heating  Coil  Made 'of    Resistance  Wire 

Placed  in  a  Bicycle-Pump  Barrel 

for  Boiling  Water 

ance  wire  on  the  core,  be  sure  that  one 
turn  does  not  touch  the  other.  The 
heater  when  connected  to  a  current 
supply  and  placed  in  1  qt.  of  water  will 
bring  it  to  a  boil  quickly. — Contributed 
by  A.  H.  Waychoff,  Lyons,  Colo. 


90 


A  good  site,  pure  water  in 
dance,  and  a  convenient  fuel  supply, 
are  the  features  of  a  temporary  camp 
that  should  be  given  first  considera- 
tion when  starting  out  to  enjoy  a  va- 
cation in  the  woods.  The  site  should 
be  high  and  dry,  level  enough  for  the 
tent  and  camp  hre,  and  with  surround- 
ing ground  sloping  enough  to  insure 
proper  drainage.  A  sufficient  fuel 
supply  is  an  important  factor,  and  a 
spot  should  be  chosen  where  great  ef- 
fort is  not  required  to  collect  it  and 
get  it  into  proper  shape  for  the  fire. 

When     locating     near     streams     of 
water  be  careful  to  select  a  spot  above 


By  F.  S.  CHARLES 
abun-      If  the  camping  party  consists  of  more 


than  two  persons,  each  one  should  do 
the  part  allotted  to  him,  and  the  work 
will  be  speedily  accomplished.  Re- 
member that  discipline  brings  effi- 
ciency, and  do  not  be  slack  about  a 
camp  just  because  it  is  pleasure.  One 
of  the  party  should  attend  to  the  camp 
fire  and  prepare  the  meals  while  an- 
other secures  the  fuel  and  water.  The 
tent  can  be  unpacked  and  the  ground 
cleared  by  the  other  members  of  the 
party,  and  when  ready,  all  should  as- 
sist in  raising  the  tent,  especially  if  it 
is  a  large  one. 

Tents 

An  ordinary  A  or  wedge  tent  is  suf- 
ficient for  one  or  two  campers.   Where 
you  do  not  wish  to  locate  permanently, 
this  tent  can  be  set  up  and  taken  down 
quickly.      It    should    have   a    ring   fas- 
tened to  the  cloth  in  each  peak  through 
which    to    pass    a 
rope     or    line     to 
take   the    place   of 
a    ridge    pole. 
Such    a    tent    can 
be   pitched  be- 


not  be  overflowed 
by  a  sudden  rise 
of  the  stream.  Do 
not  select  the  site 
of  an  old  camp,  as 
are  usually  stripped 
the  grounds  are  unclean. 

Division  of  Work 

Clear  the  selected  spot  and  lay  out 
the  lines  for  the  tent,  camp  fire,  etc. 


Lean  To  of  Boughs 

the   surroundings 
of    all    fuel,   and 


Log  Cabin 


91 


Fire  between  Two  Log: 


Fire  Built  against  a  Log 


tween  two  trees  or  saplings,  and,  after 
tying  the  rope  to  the  trees,  it  can  be 
tightened  with  a  long  forked  stick, 
placed  under  one  end  of  the  rope.  If 
two  trees  are  not  conveniently  located, 
then  two  poles  crossed  and  tied  to- 
gether will  make  supports  for  one  or 
both  ends,  the  ridge  line  running  over 
them  and  staked  to  the  ground. 

On  a  chilly  night,  the  A  tent  is  quite 
advantageous.  The  stakes  can  be 
pulled  on  one  side  and  the  cloth 
doubled  to  make  a  lean-to,  open  on  the 
side  away  from  the  wind.  A  fire  can 
be  built  in  front  and  the  deflected  heat 
on  the  sleeper  will  keep  him  comfort- 
able and  warm. 

For  larger  parties,  the  wall  tent  with 
a  fly  is  recommended.  These  tents  can 
be  purchased  in  various  sizes.  The  fly 
is  an  e.xtra  covering  stretched  over  the 
top  to  make  an  open  air  space  between 
the  two  roofs.  It  keeps  the  interior  of 
the  tent  delightfully  cool  in  hot  sum- 
mer weather  and  provides  a  better  pro- 
tection from  rain.  The  fly  can  be  made 
extra  long,  to  extend  over  the  end  of 
the  tent,  making  a  shady  retreat  which 
can  be  used  for  lounging  or  a  dining 
place. 

Protection  from  Insects 

Where  mosquitoes  and  other  insects 
are  numerous,  it  is  well  to  make  a 
second  tent  of  cheesecloth  with  bind- 
ing tape  along  the  top  to  tie  it  to  the 
ridge  pole  of  the  regular  tent.  The 
sides  should  be  made  somewhat  longer 
than  the  regular  tent  so  that  there  will 
be   plenty  of  cloth   to  weight  it  down 


at  the  bottom.  This  second  tent 
should  be  made  without  any  opening 
whatever.  The  occupant  must  crawl 
under  the  edge  to  enter.  The  cheese- 
cloth tent  is  used  inside  of  the  ordi- 
nary tent,  and  when  not  in  use  it  is 
pushed  aside. 

Two  camps  are  illustrated  showing 
the  construction  of  a  lean-to  for  a  tem- 
porary one-season  camp,  and  a  log 
cabin  which  makes  a  permanent  place 
from  year  to  year.  (A  more  elaborate 
and  more  expensive  camp  was  de- 
scribed in  the  May  issue  of  this  maga- 
zine.) The  construction  of  these 
camps  are  very  simple.  The  first  is 
made  of  poles  cut  in  the  woods.  A 
ridge  pole  is  placed  between  two  trees 
or  held  in  place  with  poles  of  sufficient 


Forked  Sticks  Supporting  Cooking  Utensils 

length,  set  in  the  ground.  Poles  are 
placed  on  this  at  an  angle  of  about  4-5 
deg.,  forming  a  lean-to  that  will  be  en- 


92 


tirely  open  in  front  when  finished.  The 
poles  are  covered,  beginning-  at  the 
bottom,  with  pine  boughs,  laid  in  lay- 
ers so  as  to  make  a  roof  that  will  shed 
water.  A  large  fire,  built  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  open  front  will  make  a 
warm  place  to  sleep,  the  heat  being  re- 
flected down  the  same  as  described  for 
the  A  tent. 

A  Permanent  Camp 
A  good  permanent  camp  is  a  log 
cabin.  This  can  be  constructed  of  ma- 
terials found  in  the  woods.  Trees  may 
be  felled,  cut  to  length,  and  notched  to 
join  the  ends  together  at  each  corner 
so  as  to  leave  little  or  no  space  be- 
tween the  logs.  The  roof  is  con- 
structed of  long  clapboards,  split  from 
blocks  of  wood.  The  builder  can  fin- 
ish such  a  camp  as  elaborately  as  he 
chooses,  and  for  this  reason  the  site 
should  be  selected  with  great  care. 

Camp  Fires 

There  is  no  better  way  to  make  a 
camp  fire  than  to  have  a  large  log  or 
two  against  which  to  start  a  fire  with 
small  boughs.  Larger  sticks  can  be 
placed  over  the  logs  in  such  a  way  as 
to  hold  a  pot  of  water  or  to  set  a  fry- 
ing pan.  Forked  sticks  can  be  laid  on 
the  log  and  weighted  on  the  lower  end 
with  a  stone,  using  the  upper  end  to 
hang  a  cooking  vessel  over  the  flames. 
Two  logs  placed  parallel,  with  space 
enough  between  for  the  smaller  sticks, 
make  one  of  the  best  camp  cooking  ar- 


rangements. Two  forked  sticks,  one 
at  each  end  of  the  logs,  may  be  set 
in  the  ground  and  a  pole  placed  in  the 
forks  lengthwise  of  the  fire.  This 
makes  a  convenient  place  for  hanging 
the  cooking  utensils  with  bent  wires. 

Food  Supplies 

The  conditions  in  various  localities 
make  a  difference  in  the  camper's  ap- 
petite and  in  consequence  no  special 
list  of  food  can  be  recommended,  but 
the  amount  needed  by  the  average 
person  in  a  vacation  camp  for  two 
weeks,  is  about  as  follows: 


Bacon 151b. 

Ham 5   ■ 

Flour 20  •■ 

Corn  Meal 5  " 

Rice 5  •■ 


Baking  Powder %  lb. 

Sugar 5  " 

Beans 4  '* 

Salt 2  ■• 

Lard 3  " 


Coftee 31b. 

A  number  of  small  things  must  be 
added  to  this  list,  such  as  pepper,  olive 
oil,  sage,  nutmeg  and  vinegar.  If  the 
weight  is  not  to  be  considered,  canned 
goods,  preserves,  jam  and  marmalade, 
also  vegetables  and  dried  fruits  may 
be  added.  Do  not  forget  soap  and 
matches. 

Food  can  be  kept  cool  in  a  box  or 
a  box-like  arrangement  made  of 
straight  sticks  over  which  burlap  is 
hung  and  kept  wet.  This  is  accom- 
plished by  setting  a  pan  on  top  of  the 
box  and  fixing  wicks  of  cloth  over  the 
edges.  The  wicks  will  siphon  the 
water  out  evenly  and  keep  the  burlap 
wet. 


A  Drinking  Tube 

When  on  a  walking  tour  through  the 
woods  or  country,  it  might  be  well  to 
provide  a  way  to  procure  water  for 
drinking  purposes.  Take  with  you 
several  feet  of  small  rubber  tubing  and 
a  few  inches  of  hollow  cane  of  the  size 
to  fit  the  tube. 

In  one  end  insert  the  cane  for  a 
mouthpiece,  and  allow  the  other  end 
to  reach  into  the  water.  Exhaust  the 
air  from  the  tube  and  the  water  will 
rush  up  to  your  lips. — ^Contributed  by 
L.  Alberta  iSTorrell,  Augusta,  Ga. 


Washing    Photographic    Prints 

The  usual  way  of  washing  photo- 
graphic prints  is  to  place  them  in  a 
shallow  tray  in  which  they  will  be- 
come stuck  together  in  bunches,  if 
they  are  not  often  separated.  A 
French  magazine  suggests  that  a  deep 
tank  be  used  instead,  and  that  each 
print  be  attached  to  a  cork  by  means 
of  a  pin  stuck  through  one  corner,  the 
cork  thus  becoming  a  float  which  keeps 
the  print  suspended  vertically,  and  at 
the  same  time  prevents  contact  with 
its  nearest  neighbor. 


93 


Camp    Furnishings 

By  CHELSEA  CURTIS  FRASER 


When  on  a  camping  trip  nothing 
should  be  carried  but  the  necessities, 
and  the  furnishings  should  be  made  up 
from  materials  found  in  the  woods.  A 
good  spring  bed  can  be  made  up  in  the 
following  manner :  Cut  two  stringers 
from  small,  straight  trees,  about  4  in. 
in  diameter,  and  make  them  about  6  ft. 
long.  All  branches  are  trimmed  off 
smooth  and  a  trench  is  dug  in  the 
ground  for  each  piece,  the  trenches 
being  S4  in.  apart.  Small  saplings, 
about  1  in.  in  diameter,  and  as  straight 
as  can  be  found,  are  cut  and  trimmed  of 
all  branches,  and  nailed  across  the 
stringers  for  the  springs.  Knots,  bulges, 
etc.,  should  be  turned  downward  as  far 
as  possible.  The  ends  of  each  piece 
are  flattened  as  shown  at  A,  Fig.  1,  to 
give  it  a  good  seat  on  the  stringers. 

A  larger  sapling  is  cut,  flattened,  and 
nailed  at  the  head  of  the  bed  across  the 
stringers,  and  to  it  a  number  of  head- 
stay  saplings,  B,  are  nailed.  These 
head-stay  pieces  are  cut  about  12  in. 
long,  sharpened  on  one  end  and  driven 
a  little  way  into  the  ground,  after  which 
they  are  nailed  to  the  head  crosspiece. 

In  the  absence  of  an  empty  mattress 
tick  and  pillow  cover  which  can  be 
filled  with  straw,  b(TUghs  of  fir  may  be 
used.  These  boughs  should  not  be 
larger  than  a  match  and  crooked  stems 
should  be  turned  down.  Begin  at  the 
head  of  the  bed  and  lay  a  row  of  boughs 


A  Camp  Bed  Made  of  Saplings  with  Several  Layers 
of  Boughs  for  the  Mattress 

with  the  stems  pointing  toward  the 
foot.  Over  this  row.  and  half-lapping 
it,  place  another  row  so  that  the  tops  of 


the  boughs  lie  on  the  line  C  and  their 
stems  on  the  line  D.  This  process  is 
continued  until  the  crosspiece  springs 
are  entirely  covered,  and  then  another 
layer  is  laid  in  the  same  manner  on  top 


Fig. 3 

A  Table  Made  of  Packing-Box  Material  and  a 
Wash  Basin  Stand  of  Three  Stakes 

of  these,  and  so  on,  until  a  depth  of  6 
or  8  in.  is  obtained.  This  will  make  a 
good  substitute  for  a  mattress.  A  pil- 
low can  be  made  by  filling  a  meal  bag 
with  boughs  or  leaves. 

A  good  and  serviceable  table  can  be 
constructed  from  a  few  fence  boards,  or 
boards  taken  from  a  packing  box.  The 
table  and  chairs  are  made  in  one  piece, 
the  construction  being  clearly  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  The  height  of  the  ends  should 
be  about  29  in.,  and  the  seats  about  17 
in.  from  the  ground.  The  other  dimen- 
sions will  be  governed  by  the  material 
at  hand  and  the  number  of  campers. 

A  wash-basin  support  can  be  made  of 
three  stakes,  cut  from  saplings  and 
driven  in  the  ground,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  3.  The  basin  is  hung  by  its  rim 
between  the  ends  of  the  stakes. 

Wherever  a  suitable  tree  is  handy,  a 
seat  can  be  constructed  as  shown  in 
Fig.  4.  Bore  two  1-in.  holes,  8  in. 
apart,  in  the  trunk,  1.5  in.  above  the 
ground,  and  drive  two  pins,  about  13 
in.  long,  cut  from  a  sapling  into  them. 
The  extending  ends  are  supported  on 
legs  of  the  same  material.  The  seat  is 
made  of  a  slab  with  the  rounding  side 
down. 

A  clothes  hanger  for  the  tent  ridge 


94 


pole  can  be  made  as  shown  in  Fig.  5. 
The  hang-er  consists  of  a  piece,  7  in. 
long,  cut  from  a  2-in.  sapling,  nails  be- 


Fg4  """iS 

A  Seat  Against  the  Trunk  of  a  Tree,  and  a  Clothes 
Hanger  for  the  Tent  Ridge  Pole 

ing  driven  into  its  sides  for  hooks.  The 
upper  end  is  fitted  with  a  rope  which  is 
tied  over  the  ridge  pole  of  the  tent. 


A  Fruit  Stemmer 

In  the  berry  season  the  stemmer 
shown  in  the  sketch  is  a  very  handy 
article  for  the 
kitchen.  It  is 
made  of  spring 
steel  and  tem- 
pered, the  length 
^^.  being  about  2% 
in.  The  end 
used  for  removing  the  stem  is  ground 
from  the  outside  edge  after  tempering. 
A  ring  large  enough  to  admit  the  sec- 
ond finger  is  soldered  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  end  on  one  leg. — 
Contributed  by  H.  F.  Reams,  Nashville, 
Tennessee. 


a  i^jj-iu-  hole  in  the  center  of  the  wood 
plug  and  fit  another  plug  into  this  hole 
with  sufficient  end  projecting  to  be 
shaped  for  the  length  of  the  steel  pen 
to  be  used.  The  shank  of  the  pen  and 
the  plug  must  enter  the  hole  together. 
One  side  of  the  projecting  end  of  the 
plug  should  be  shaped  to  fit  the  inside 
surface  of  the  pen  and  then  cut  off  at 
a  point  a  little  farther  out  than  the  eye 
in  the  pen.  On  the  surface  that  is  to 
lie  against  the  pen  a  groove  is  cut  in 
the  plug  extending  from  near  the  point 
to  the  back  end  where  it  is  to  enter 
the  hole  in  the  first  plug.  The  under 
side  of  the  plug  is  shaped  about  as 
shown. 

The  other  cartridge  is  cut  off  at  such 
a  point  that  it  will  fit  on  the  tapering 
end  of  the  first  one,  and  is  used  for  a 
cap.  The  cartridge  being  filled  with 
ink  and  the  plug  inserted,  the  ink  will 
flow  down  the  small  groove  in  the 
feeder  plug  and  supply  the  pen  with 
ink.  Care'must  be  taken  that  the  sur- 
face of  the  smaller  plug  fits  the  pen 
snugly  and  that  the  groove  is  not  cut 
through  to  the  point  end.  This  will 
keep  the  ink  from  flooding,  and  only 
that  which  is  used  for  writing  will  be 
able  to  get  through  or  leak  out. — Con- 
tributed by  Edwin  N.  Harnish,  Ceylon, 
Canada. 


A  Homemade  Fountain  Pen 

A  very  serviceable  fountain  pen  can 
be  made  from  two  38-72  rifle  cartridges 
and  a  steel  pen.  Clean  out  the  cart- 
ridges, fit  a  hardwood  plug  tightly  in 


One  Cartridge  Shell  Makes  the  Fountain  Part  of  the 
Pen,  and  the  Other  the  Cap 

the   end    of   one    shell,    and    cut    it    off 
smooth  with  the  end  of  the  metal.    Drill 


Destroying   Caterpillars  on 
Grapevines 

The  grapes  in  my  back  yard  were 
being  destroyed  by  caterpillars  which 
could  be  found  under  all  the  large 
leaves.  The  vine  was  almost  dead  when 
I  began  to  cut  off  all  the  large  leaves 
and  "those  eaten  by  the  caterpillars, 
which  allowed  the  sun's  rays  to  reach 
the  grapes.  This  destroyed  all  the 
caterpillars  and  the  light  and  heat 
ripened  the  grapes. — Contributed  by 
Wm.  Singer,  Rahway,  N.  J. 

CIt  will  require  1  gal.  of  ordinary 
mixed  calcimine  to  cover  370  sq.  ft.  of 
plastered  surface,  180  sq.  ft.  of  brick- 
work and  225  sq.  ft.  of  average  wood- 
work. 


95 


A  Camp  Provision  Box 


While  on  a  camping  and  canoeing 
trip  recently,  I  used  a  device  which 
added  a  touch  of  completeness  to  our 
outfit  and  made  camp  life  really  enjoy- 
able. This  useful  device  is  none  other 
than  a  provision  or  "grub"  box. 

From  experience  campers  know  that 
the  first  important  factor  in  having  a 
successful  trip  is  compactness  of  out- 
fit. When  undertaking  an  outing  of 
this  kind  it  is  most  desirable  to  have 
as  few  bundles  to 
carry  as  possible, 
especially  if  one  is 
going  to  be  on  the 
move  part  of  the 
time.  This  device 
eliminates  an  un- 
necessary amount 
of  bundles,  thus 
making  the  trip 
easier  for  the 
campers,  and 
doubly  so  if  they 
intend  canoeing 
part  of  the  time ; 
and,  apart  from  its 
usefulness  as  a  provision  container, 
it  affords  a  general  repository  for  the 
small  articles  which  mean  so  much  to 
the  camper's  welfare. 

The  box  proper  may  be  made  of  any 
convenient  size,  so  long  as  it  is  not  too 
cumbersome  for  two  people  to  handle. 
The  dimensions  given  are  for  a  box  I 


The     Provision     Box    Ready    for    Use     in     Camp, 

the  Cover  Turned  Back  on  the  Brackets 

and  the  Legs  Extended 


larger  box  is  much  to  be  preferred.  A 
glance  at  the  figures  will  show  the 
general  proportions  of  the  box.  It  may 
be  possible,  in  some  cases,  to  secure  a 
strong  packing  box  near  the  required 
dimensions,  thus  doing  away  with  the 
trouble  of  constructing  it.  The  dis- 
tinguishing features  of  this  box  are  the 
hinged  cover,  the  folding  legs,  and  the 
folding  brackets.  The  brackets,  upon 
which  the  top  rests  when  open,  fold  in 
against  the  back 
of  the  box  when 
not  in  use.  The 
same  may  be  said 
of  the  legs.  They 
fold  up  alongside 
the  box  and  are 
held  there  by 
spring-brass  clips. 
On  our  trips  we 
carry  an  alcohol 
stove  on  which  we 
do  all  of  our  cook- 
ing. The  inner 
side  of  the  top  is 
covered  with  a 
sheet  of  asbestos,  this  side  being  upper- 
most when  the  hinged  top  is  opened 
and  resting  on  the  folding  brackets. 
The  stove  rested  on  this  asbestos,  thus 
making  everything  safe.  The  cover  is 
large  enough  to  do  all  the  cooking  on, 
and  the  box  is  so  high  that  the  cooking 
can  be  attended  to  without   stooping 


J^f^,^...n:, 

\   B                   a    \ 

LEG  AGAINST  BOX  END           \ 

1                             i 

A- - -A' 

^ 

f 

SIDE 

The  Brackets  for  the  Cover  as  "Well  as  Each  of  the  Four  Legs  Fold  Against  the  Sides  of  the  Box  in  Such  a  Manner 
as  to  be  Out  of  the  Way,  Making  the  Box  Easy  to  Carry  and  Store  Away  in  a  Small  Space 

used  on  a  canoe  trip  of  several  hundred  over,  which  is  much  more  pleasant 
miles;  and  from  experience  I  know  it  than  squatting  before  a  camp  fire  get- 
to  be  of  a  suitable  size  for  canoeists,  ting  the  eyes  full  of  smoke.  The  legs 
If  the  camper  is  going  to  have  a  fixed  are  hinged  to  the  box  in  such  a  man- 
camp  and  have  his  luggage  hauled,  a  ner  that  all  of  the  weight  of  the  box 


96 


rests  on  the  legs  rather  than  on  the 
hinges,  and  are  kept  from  spreading 
apart  by  wire  turnbuckles.  These,  be- 
ing just  bolts  and  wire,  may  be  tucked 
inside  the  box  when  on  the  move.    The 


BUTTON    TO 
HOLD    BRACKCTS 


Detail  of  the  Turnbuckle,  Button  to  Hold  the  Brackets, 
and  the  Spring  Clip  for  Holding  the  Legs  on  the 
Side  of  the  Box 

top  is  fitted  with  unexposed  hinges  and 
with  a  lock  to  make  it  a  safe  place  for 
storing  valuables. 

In  constructing  the  cover  it  is  well 
to  make  it  so  that  it  covers  the  joints 
of  the  sides,  thus  making  the  box 
waterproof  from  the  top,  if  rain  should 
fall  on  it.  A  partition  can  be  made  in 
one  end  to  hold  odds  and  ends.  A  tray 
could  be  installed,  like  the  tray  in  a 
trunk,  to  hold  knives,  forks,  spoons, 
etc.,  while  the  perishable  supplies  are 
kept  und'erneath  the  tray.  Give  the 
box  two  coats  of  lead  paint,  and  shellac 
the  inside. 

The  wire  braces  for  the  legs  are 
made  as  follows.  Procure  four  ma- 
chine bolts,  about  1/4  in.  in  diameter  and 
2  in.  long — any  thread  will  do — with 
wing  nuts  and  washers  to  fit.  Saw  or 
file  off  the  heads  and  drill  a  small  hole 
in  one  end  of  each  bolt,  large  enough 
to  receive  a  No.  16  galvanized  iron 
wire.  Two  inches  from  the  bottom  of 
each  leg  drill  a  hole  to  take  the  bolt 
loosely.  Determine  the  exact  distance 
between  the  outside  edges  of  the  legs 
when  the  box  is  resting  on  them.  Make 
the  wire  braces  1  in.  longer  than  this 
distance  so  that  the  bolts  will  protrude 
through  the  holes  in  the  legs  and  allow 
for  putting  on  the  nuts  and  washers. 
Screwing  up  on  the  nuts  draws  the 
wire  taut,  thus  holding  the  legs  firm. 

The  size  of  the  top  determines  the 
dimensions  of  the  folding  brackets 
which  support  it  when  open.  These 
brackets  may  be  solid  blocks  of  wood, 
but  a  lighter  and  more  serviceable 
bracket  is  constructed  as  follows.  If 
the  top  is  20  in.  wide  and  30  in.  long, 


make  the  brackets  10  by  13  in.  Con- 
structing the  brackets  so  that  their 
combined  length  is  4  in.  shorter  than 
the  total  length  of  the  box,  facilitates 
their  folding  against  the  back  of  the  box 
when  not  in  use.  This  point  is  clearly 
shown  in  the  drawing.  Our  brackets 
were  made  of  V^-in.  oak,  li/>  in.  wide, 
and  the  joints  halved  together.  They 
are  hinged  to  the  back  of  the  bo.x  as 
shown ;  and  when  folded  are  held  in 
place  by  a  simple  catch.  The  weight 
of  the  lid  is  sufficient  to  hold  the  brack- 
ets in  place  when  open,  but  to  make 
sure  they  will  not  creep  when  in  use  in- 
sert a  i/4-iu.  dowel  in  the  end  of  each  so 
that  it  protrudes  ^4  in.  Drill  two  holes 
in  the  top  to  the  depth  of  ^4  in.,  so  that 
when  the  top  rests  on  the  brackets, 
these  holes  engage  with  the  dowels. 
In  hinging  the  brackets  to  the  back  see 
that  they  are  high  enough  to  support 
the  lid  at  right  angles  to  the  box. 

The  box  here  shown  is  made  of  % 
in.  white  pine  throughout.  The  legs 
are  Yg  by  2yo  by  18  in.  They  are  fast- 
ened to  the  box  with  ordinary  strap 
hinges.  When  folded  up  against  the 
box  they  do  not  come  quite  to  the  top 
so  that  the  box  should  be  at  least  19 
in.  high  for  18-in.  legs.  About  2  in. 
from  the  bottom  of  the  legs  drive  in  a 
brad  so  it  protrudes  Vs  in.  as  shown. 
This  brad  engages  in  a  hole  in  the 
spring-brass  clip  when  folded  up  as 
shown  in  the  illustration. 

If  in  a  fixed  camp,  it  is  a  good  idea 
to  stand  the  legs  in  tomato  cans  partly 
full  of  water.  This  prevents  ants  from 
crawling  up  the  legs  into  the  box,  but 
it  necessitates  placing  the  wire  braces 
higher  on  the  legs. 

Our  box  cost  us  nothing  but  the 
hardware,  as  we  knocked  some  old 
packing  boxes  to  pieces  and  planed  up 
enough  boards  to  make  the  sides.  Of 
course,  the  builder  need  not  adhere  to 
these  dimensions,  for  he  can  make  the 
size  to  suit  his  requirements,  while  the 
finish  is  a  matter  of  personal  taste. 


CA  blue  writing  ink  is  easily  made  of 
1  oz.  Prussian  blue,  II/2  oz.  oxalic  acid 
and  1  pt.  of  soft  water.  Shake  and 
allow  it  to  stand  until  dissolved. 


97 


Wall  Pockets  in  a  Tent 

When  camping  I  find  a  few  wall 
pockets  sewed  to  the  tent  walls  at  the 
back  end  provide  a  convenient  means 
to  hold  the  soap,  mirror,  razor  and 
other  small  articles  liable  to  be  lost. 
The  pockets  can  be  made  of  the  same 
material  as  the  tent  and  sewed  on  as  a 
patch  pocket. — Contributed  by  A.  M. 
Barnes,  Atlanta,  Ga. 


Camp  Stoves 

The  camp  stoves  illustrated  are  dif- 
ferent forms  of  the  same  idea.  Both 
can  be  taken  apart  and  laid  flat  for 
packing.  Iron  rods,  i/o  in.  in  diameter, 
are  used  for  the  legs.  They  are 
sharpened  at  the  lower  end  so  that 
they  may  be  easily  driven  into  the 
ground.  The  rods  of  the  one  shown 
in  the  first  illustration  are  bent  in 
the  form  of  a  hook  at  the  upper  end, 
and  two  pieces  of  light  tire  iron,  with 
holes  in  either  end,  are  hung  on  these 


i'VZ^ 


Camp-Stove  Top,  Either    Solid  or  Pieced,  Supported 
on  Hods  at  the  Corners 

hooks.  Across  these  supports  are 
laid  other  pieces  of  the  tire  iron.  In 
the  other  stove,  the  rods  have  a  large 
head  and  are  slipped  through  holes  in 
the  four  corners  of  the  piece  of  heavy 
sheet  iron  used  for  the  top.  A  cotter 
is  slipped  through  a  hole  in  each  rod 
just  jjelow  the  top,  to  hold  the  latter 
in  place. — Contributed  by  Mrs.  Lelia 
Munsell,  Herington,  Kansas. 


Attractor  for  Game  Fish 

A  piece  of  light  wood,  shaped  as 
shown  and  with  four  small  screweyes 
attached,  makes  a  practical  attractor 
for  game  fish,  such  as  bass,  etc.,  by  its 
action  when  drawn  through  the  water 


or  carried  by  the  flow  of  a  stream 
Hooks  are  attached  to  three  of  the 
screweyes  and  the  fourth  one,  on   the 


A  Device  for  Attracting  Game  Fish 
Which  is  Used  in  Place  of  Bait 


sloping  surface,  is  used  for  the  line. — 
Contributed  by  Arthur  Vogel,  In- 
dianapolis, Ind. 


Simple    Photographic-Print   Washer 

The  ordinary  washbowl  supplied 
with  a  faucet  may  be  easily  converted 
into  a  washing  tray  for  photographic 
prints  or  film  negatives.  Procure  a 
medicine  dropper  from  a  druggist,  and 
attach  it  to  the  faucet  end  with  a  short 
piece  of  rubber  tubing.  Be  sure  to 
procure  a  dropper  that  has  the  point 
turned    at    right   angles    to    the    body. 

The  Whirling   Motion  (-0 
U^Set  Up  by  the  Forced  ^^ 
^  Stream  at  an  Angle         _ 

Thoroughly  Washes     j?^^^ 
^  Prints  ^ 


When  the  water  is  turned  on  it  is 
forced  through  the  small  opening  in 
the  dropper  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
water  in  the  bowl  is  kept  in  a  constant 
whirling  motion.  This  will  keep  the 
prints  on  the  move,  which  is  necessary 
for  a  thorough  washing. 


98 


How  to  Make  an  Electric  Fishing 
Signal 

A  unique  electric  fishing  signal, 
which  may  be  rigged  up  on  a  wharf 
or  pier,  and  the  electric  circuit  so  ar- 


Construction  of  the  Parts  to  Make  the  Contact  Points 
and  the  Electric  Connections 

ranged  as  to  operate  an  electric  bell 
or  buzzer,  located  in  the  fisherman's 
cottage,  or  any  other  convenient  place, 
may  be  constructed  as  follows:  Ob- 
tain two  pieces  of  iV-in.  spring  brass, 
one  6  in.  long  and  %  in.  wide,  and  the 
other  7  in.  long  and  i/o  in.  wide.  Mount 
a  2-in.  brass  wood  screw,  A,  in  one 
end  of  the  (l-in.  piece  as  shown. 

Place  over  the  end  of  the  6-in.  piece 
a  thin  sheet  of  insulating  fiber,  B,  al- 
lowing it  to  extend  down  on  each  side 
about  1  in.  Then  bend  a  piece  of  iV-in. 
brass,  C,  over  the  insulating  fiber,  al- 
lowing it  to  extend  down  on  each  side 
the  same  distance  as  the  insulating 
fiber.  Drill  a  small  hole  through  the 
lower  ends  of  the  U-shaped  piece  of 
brass,  C,  the  insulation,  B,  and  the 
6-in.  piece,  while  they  are  all  in  place. 
Remove  the  insulation  and  the  U- 
shaped  brass  piece,  and  tap  the  holes 
in  the  brass  for  a  machine  screw,  D. 
Enlarge  the  hole  in  the  G-in  piece,  and 
provide  an  insulating  bushing  for  it 
with  an  opening  of  the  same  diameter 
as  the  brass  machine  screw.  Mount 
a  small  binding  post,  E,  on  one  side  of 
the  U-shaped  piece  of  brass,  and  the 
parts   may   then   be  put  together   and 


held  in  place  by  means  of  the  brass 
screw. 

Drill  two  holes  in  the  other  end  of 
the  6-in  piece,  also  two  holes  in  one 
end  of  the  7-in  piece,  and  rivet  them 
together  with  two  small  rivets.  The 
7-in.  piece  should  project  beyond  the 
end  of  the  6-in.  piece.  A  piece  of  thin 
spring  brass  should  be  made  into  the 
form  of  a  spiral,  F,  and  fastened  to 
the  upper  end  of  the  7-in.  piece.  Pro- 
vision should  be  made  for  attaching 
the  fishline  to  the  inside  end  of  the 
brass  spiral.  A  small  binding  post 
should  be  soldered  to  either  the  6-in. 
or  7-in.  piece,  at  the  bottom. 

If  the  device  is  set  up  with  the  head 
of  the  brass  adjusting  screw  in  the  top 
of  the  6-in.  piece,  pointing  in  the  di- 
rection the  line  to  the  fishing  hook  is 
to  run,  and  if  a  fish  pulls  upon  the 
line,  the  7-in.  piece  is  pulled  over  and 
touches  the  point  of  the  adjusting 
screw.  If  a  battery  and  bell,  or  l)uzzer, 
is  connected  as  shown,  the  circuit  will 
be  completed  when  the  7-in.  piece 
comes  in  contact  with  the  adjusting 
screw,  and  the  bell  will  rinaf. 


A  Chair  Swing 

A  comfortable  porch  or  lawn  swing 
can  be  easily  and  quickly  made  with 
a  chair  as  a  seat,  as  follows.  Procure 
some  rope  of  sufficient  strength  to  bear 


The  Ropes  are  Tied   to  the  Chair    so  That  It  will  be 
Held  in  a  Reclining   Position 

the  weight  of  the  person,  and  fasten 
one  end  securely  to  one  of  the  front 
legs  of  the  chair  and  the  other  end  to 
the   same   side  of  the   back   as   shown 


99 


in  the  illustration,  allowing  enough 
slack  to  form  a  right  angle.  Another 
piece  of  rope,  of  the  same  length,  is 
then  attached  to  the  other  side  of  the 
chair.  The  supporting  ropes  are  tied 
to  these  ropes  and  to  the  joist  or  hold- 
ing piece  overhead. — Contributed  by 
\Vm.  A.  Robinson,  Waynesboro,  Pa. 


Another  Broom  Holder 

Of  the  many  homemade  devices  for 
holding    a    broom    this    is   one    of   the 
simplest,  and  one  that  any 
handy  boy  can  make. 

It  consists  of  a  string, 
about  1  ft.  long,  with  a 
knot  at  one  end  and  the 
other  tied  to  a  nail  or 
staple  driven  into  the  wall. 
To  hang  up  the  broom 
simply  turn  the  string 
around  the  handle  as 
shown,  and  the  broom  will 
be  held  securely,  because 
its  weight  will  pull  the 
string  taut  and  the  knot  at  the  end 
will  prevent  the  string  from  running 
off  the  handle. — Contributed  by  Jef 
De  Vries,  Antwerp,  Belgium. 


Squaring  Wood  Stock 

The  device  shown  in  the  sketch  is 
a  great  help  to  the  maker  of  mission 
furniture  as  a  guide  on  short  cuts.     It 


The   Saw   Teeth    Edge   can    be  Run  through    Both 
Pieces,  the  Stock  being  in  the    Corner 

consists  of  two  pieces  of  wood,  A  and 
B,  preferably  of  oak,  fastened  together 
at  right  angles  by  two  large  flat-head 
screws.  The  pieces  should  be  placed 
exactly  at  right  angles. 

A  cut  is  then  made  through  both 
pieces.  The  cut  on  B  should  be  ex- 
actly at  right  angles  to  the  surface  of 
piece  A.  This  device  can  be  either 
clamped  on  a  board  or  merely  held 
by  hand,  and  will  insure  a  true  cut. — 
Contributed  by  F.  W.  Pumphrey, 
Owensboro,  Ky. 


A  Wind   Vane 


A  novelty  in   wind  vanes   is   shown 
in     the    accompanying    sketch.       The 
vane  can  be  made  of  sheet  metal 
or  carved  from  light  wood.     The   ^"°" 
wings  are  so  set  on  the  body  as  to 
cause  the  dragon  to  rise  when  the 
wind  strikes  them.     The  dragon  is 
pivoted  on  a  shaft  running  through 
its  center  of  gravity,  so  it  will  read- 
ily  turn    with   the   wind.      The    tail 
part  may  also  be  made  to  revolve 
as  the  propeller  of  an  aeroplane. 

The  length  and  size  of  the  shaft 
will   depend   on   the   dimen- 
sions   of    the    dragon,    and 
similarly,     the     location     of 
the    weights    on    the    chains 
will   be    determined   by    its    size    and 
weight.      Upon    these    circumstances 
'and  the  varying  velocities  of  the  wind 
will     depend    how    high    the     dragon 


will   rise  on  its   shaft,  and  the  height 
reached   by   it   will   thus    serve   to   in- 
(p      ^    dicate — in  a  relative  manner  only 
'    .       — the  velocity  of  the  wind,  but  it 
is     also    possible     to     arrange     the 
weights  at  such  distances  apart  that 
C  the  dragon  will  rise  to  A  in  a  SO-mile 
wind,  to  B  in  a  30-mile  wind,  to  C 
in  a  40-mile  gale,  and   so  on,  with 
B  as  many  weights  as  desired.     This 
can    be    done    with    the    aid    of    an 
anemometer,  if  one  can  be  borrowed 
for   some   time,  or  the   device   may 
be   taken    to   the 
nearest    weather 
bureau      to      be 
set.  —  Contrib- 
uted by  H.  J.  Ilolden,  Ontario,  Cal. 


CNever  rock  a  file — push  it  straight  on 
filing  work. 


100 


How  to  Make  a  Flutter  Ring 

The  flutter  ring  is  for  inclosing  in 
an  envelope  and  to  surprise  the  per- 
son opening  it  by  the  revolving  of  the 


(T 


The  Shape  of  the  Wire  and  Manner  of  Attaching  the 
Rubber  Bands  to  the  Ring 

ring.  The  main  part  is  made  of  a 
piece  of  wire,  A,  bent  so  that  the 
depth  will  be  about  2  in.  and  the 
length  4  in.  Procure  or  make  a  ring, 
2  in.  in  diameter.  The  ring  should 
be  open  like  a  key  ring.  Use  two 
rubber  bands,  BB,  in  connecting  the 
ring  to  the  wire. 

To  use  it,  turn  the  ring  over  re- 
peatedly, until  the  rubber  bands  are 
twisted  tightly,  then  lay  it  flat  in  a 
paper  folded  like  a  letter.  Hand  it 
to  someone  in  this  shape  or  after  first 
putting  it  into  an  envelope.  When 
the  paper  is  opened  up,  the  ring  will 
do  the  rest. — Contributed  by  D. 
Andrew    McComb,    Toledo,    O. 


A  Kitchen  Utensil  Hanger 

Every  cook  knows  how  trouble- 
some it  is  to  have  several  things  hang- 
ing on  one  nail.  When  one  of  the 
articles  is  wanted  it  is  usually  at  the 
back,  and  the  others  must  be  removed 
to  secure  it.  A  revolving  rack  for 
hanging  a  can  opener,  egg  beater  and 
cooking    spoons,    etc.,    takes    up    less 


«  I 


■I' 


The  Hook  Support  Revolves  so  as   to    Make  Each  One 
Readily  Accessible  for  Hanging  Utensils 

space  than  several  nails,  and  places 
every  article  within  easy  reach  as  well 
as  providing  individual  hooks  for  all 
the  pieces. 

The  rack  is  easily  made  of  a  block 
of  wood,  2V2  in.  in  diameter  and  1  in. 


thick ;  an  arm,  %  in.  wide,  Yi  in.  thick 
and  6  in.  long,  and  a  metal  bracket. 
The  arm  is  fastened  to  the  bracket 
and  the  bracket  to  the  wall.  A  screw 
is  turned  through  a  loose-fitting  hole 
bored  in  the  end  of  the  arm  and  into 
the  disk.  Screw  hooks  are  placed 
around  the  edge  of  the  dish  as  hang- 
ers.— Contributed  by  A.  R.  Moore, 
Toronto,  Can. 


Homemade  Hinges  for  Boxes 

A  very  simple  form  of  hinge  can  be 
made  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  It  is 
merely  a  matter  of  cutting  out  two 
pieces  of  flat  steel,  A,  punching  holes 
in  them  for  screws  or  nails,  and  fas- 
tening them  to  the  box  corners,  one 
on  each  side.  When  the  box  is  open, 
the  lid  swings  back  clear  and   is  out 


Hinge  Parts  Made  of  Sheet   Metal   and  Their  Use  on 
a  Box  Cover 

of  the  way.  A  hinge  of  this  kind  is 
very  strong.  For  a  light  box,  the  parts 
can  be  cut  from  tin. — Contributed  by 
Chas.  Homewood,  Waterloo,  Iowa. 


To  Remove  Odors  from  Ice  Boxes 

An  easy  way  to  prevent  odors  in  an 
ice  box  is  to  place  a  can  of  coke  in 
the  box.  This  will  take  up  all  gases 
and  prevent  milk  from  tasting  of 
onions  or  vegetables  which  may  be 
kept  in  the  box. 

In  factories  where  bad  odors  are  apt 
to  spoil  the  men's  lunches  put  up  in 
pails  or  baskets,  a  box  can  be  con- 
structed to  hold  these  receptacles  and 
a  large  pail  of  coke  placed  in  it.  Any- 
thing placed  in  this  box  will  remain 
free  from  odors,  and  fresh. — Contrib- 
uted by  Loren  Ward,  Des  Moines, 
Iowa. 


101 


Preventing  Window  Sash  from 
Freezing  to  the  Sill 

When  it  is  cold  enough  to  cause  the 
window  sash  to  freeze  fast  in  the  bath- 
room and  bedrooms  not  having  double 
sash,  much  discomfort  will  be  expe- 
rienced and  the  health  may  even  be 
menaced.  I  have  discovered  a  simple 
method  to  overcome  this  difficulty. 
Lay  on  the  outside  sill,  close  up 
against  the  window  frame,  a  thin,  nar- 
row strip  of  wood,  on  which  the 
window  can  rest  when  down.  This 
gives  a  continual  current  of  fresh  air 
between  the  sashes  at  the  center,  but 
no  unpleasant  draft  l^elow,  and  no 
amount  of  dripping  and  freezing  will 
fasten  the  window  sash  upon  it. — Con- 
tributed by  Mary  Murry,  Amherst, 
Nova  Scotia. 


A  Hanger  for  the  Camp 

A  garment,  or  utensil,  hanger  can 
be  easily  made  for  the  camp  in  the 
following  manner :  Procure  a  long 
strap,  about  li/l 
in.  wide,  and  at- 
tacli  hooks  made 
of  wire  to  it. 
Each  hook 
should  be  about  4  in. 
long  and  of  about  No.  9 
gauge  wire.  Bend  a 
ring  on  one  end  of  the 
wire  and  stick  the  other 
end  through  a  hole 
punched  in  the  center  of  the  belt.  The 
ring  will  prevent  the  wire  from  passing 
through  the  leather,  and  it  should  be 
bent  in  such  a  manner  that  the  hook 
end  of  the  wire  will  hang  downward 
when  the  width  of  the  belt  is  vertical. 
These  hooks  are  placed  about  3  in. 
apart  for  the  length  of  the  belt,  allow- 
ing sufficient  ends  for  a  buckle  and 
holes.  The  strap  can  be  buckled 
around  a  tree  or  tent  pole. — Contrib- 
uted by  W.  C.  Loy,  Rochester,  Ind. 


Locking  Several  Drawers  with  One 
Lock 

A  lock  for  a  number  of  drawers  in  a 
bench  or  cabinet 
may  be  applied 
with  a  strip  of 
wood  hinged  to 
the  cabinet  edge 
so  that  it  will 
overlap  the 
drawer  fronts,  as 
shown.  A  hasp 
and  staple  com- 
plete the  ar- 
rangement for 
use  with  a  padlock. — Contributed  by 
H.  W.  Hahn,  Chicago. 


A  Lightning-Calculation  Trick 

By  means  of  a  simple  arrangement  of 
numbers,  a  calculation  can  be  made 
which  will  easily  puzzle  any  unsuspect- 
ing person.  If  the  two  numbers  41,096 
and  83  be  written  out  in  multiplication 
form,  very  few  will  endeavor  to  write 
down  the  answer  directly  without  first 
going  through  the  regular  work.  By 
placing  the  3  in  front  of  the  4  and  the 
8  back  of  the  6,  the  answer  is  obtained 
at  once,  thus:  41,096X83=3,410,968. 
A  larger  number  which  can  be  treated 
in  the  same  way  is  the  following: 
4,109,589,041,096X83=341,095,890,410,- 
968. 


CNever  stand  in  a  direct  line  of  a 
swiftly  revolving  object,  such  as  an 
emery  wheel. 


An  Adjustable  Nutcracker 

The  advantage  of  the  nutcracker 
shown  in  the  illustration  is  that  it  can 
be  adjusted  to  various-sized  nuts.  The 
handles  are  similar 
to  those  usually 
found  on  nutcrackers 
except  that  they  are 
slotted  at  the  crack- 
ing end  to  receive  a 
special  bar.  This 
bar  is  3  in.  long,  i/o 
in.  wide,  and  %  in. 
thick,  with  %-in. 
holes  drilled  in  it  at  intervals  to  allow 
for  adjustment.  Cotters  are  used  in 
the  holes  as  pins. 


103 


Substitute  for  a  Rubber  Stamp 

A  large  number  of  coupons  had  to 
be  marked,  and  having  no  suitable 
rubber   stamp   at    hand,    I    selected   a 


Initials    Cut    in    a    Cork    Served    the    Purpose    in    the 
Absence  of  a  Rubber  Stamp 

cork  with  a  smooth  end  and  cut  the 
initials  in  it.  I  found  that  it  worked 
as  well,  not  to  say  better,  than  a  rubber 
stamp.  An  ordinary  rubber-stamp  pad 
was  used  for  inking.  Angular  letters 
will  cut  better  than  curved  ones,  as 
the  cork  quickly  dulls  the  edge  of  any 
cutting  tool. — Contributed  by  James 
M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


A  Furniture  Polish 

A  good  pastelike  furniture  polish, 
which  is  very  cheap  and  keeps  indefi- 
nitely, can  be  made  as  follows:  Mix 
3  oz.  of  white  wax,  2  oz.  of  pearlash, 
commonly  known  as  potassium  car- 
bonate, and  6  oz.  of  water.  Heat  the 
mixture  until  it  becomes  dissolved, 
then  add  4  oz.  of  boiled  linseed  oil  and 
5  oz.  of  turpentine.  Stir  well  and  pour 
into  cans  to  cool.  Apply  with  a  cloth 
and  rub  to  a  polish.  The  paste  is  non- 
poisonous. 


A  Hanging  Vase 

A  very  neat  and  attractive  hanging 
corner  vase  can  be  made 
of  a  colored  bottle.  The 
bottom  is  broken  out  or 
cut  ofi  as  desired  and  a 
wire  hanger  attached  as 
shown.  The  opening  in 
the  neck  of  the  bottle  is 
well  corked.  Rectangu- 
lar shaped  bottles  fitted 
with  hangers  can  be 
used  on  walls. — Contrib- 
uted by  A.  D.  Tanaka, 
Jujiya,  Kioto,  Japan. 


Filing  Soft  Metals 

It  is  well  known  to  mechanics  that 
when  lead,  tin,  soft  solder  or  alum- 
inum are  filed,  the  file  is  soon  filled 
with  the  metal  and  it  will  not  cut.  It 
cannot  be  cleaned  like  the  wood  rasp 
by  dipping  it  into  hot  water  or  pour- 
ing boiling  water  over  it,  but  if  the 
file  and  the  work  are  kept  wet  Avith 
water,  there  will  be  no  trouble  what- 
ever. Both  file  and  work  must  be  kept 
thoroughly  wet  at  all  times. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  H.  Beebee,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 


Locking  Screws  in  Door  Hinges 

When  screws  once  work  loose  in 
hinges  of  doors  they  will  never  again 
hold  firmly  in  the  same  hole.  This 
trouble  can  be  avoided  if  the  screws 
are  securely  locked  when  they  are  first 
put  on  the  door.     The  sketch  shows  a 


A 

J  (D 

"1      ^ 

The  Screw  is  Permanently  Locked  with  a  Small   Nail 
Driven  into  the  Slot  Prepared  for  It 

very  successful  way  to  lock  the  screws. 
The  hole  in  the  hinge  for  the  screw  is 
filed  to  produce  a  notch,  as  shown  at 
A,  deep  enough  to  receive  a  small  wire 
nail  or  brad,  which  is  driven  through 
the  slot  in  the  screw  head  at  one  side, 
as  shown  at  B. 


To  Remove  Grease  from  Clothing 

Equal  parts  of  ether,  ammonia  and 
alcohol  make  a  solution  that  will 
readily  remove  grease  from  clothing. 
The  solution  must  be  kept  away  from 
fire,  and  should  be  contained  in  corked 
bottles  as  it  evaporates  quickly,  but 
can  be  used  without  danger.  It  re- 
moves grease  spots  from  the  finest 
fabrics  and  is  harmless  to  the  texture. 


CJeweler's  rouge  rubbed  well  into 
chamois  skin  is  handy  to  polish  gold 
and  silver  articles  with. 


103 


Stove   Made  of  an  Old  Oilcan  with  Extending  Sides  and  Weighted  with  Sand 
for   Use  on  a  Fishing  Boat  Hold^  the  Cooking  Vessel  Safely  in  a  Sea 


A  Canoe  Stove 

By  F.  V.  WILLIAMS 


Limited  space  and  the  rocking  mo- 
tion of  salmon-fishing  boats  in  a  heavy 
sea  on  the  Pacific  coast  brought  about 
the  construction  of  the  canoe  stove 
shown  in  the  illustration.  It  is  made 
of  a  discarded  kerosene  can  whose  form 
is  square.  A  draft  hole  is  cut  in  one 
side  of  the  can,  4  or  5  in.  from  the  bot- 
tom, and  a  layer  of  sand  placed 
on  the  bottom.  Two  holes  are 
punched  through  opposite  sides,  par- 
allel with  the  draft  hole  and  about 
3  in.  from  the  top  edge.  Rods  are 
run  through  these  holes  to  provide  a 
support  for  the  cooking  utensil.  The 
smoke  from  the  fire  passes  out  at  the 
corners  around  the  vessel. 


The  main  reason 
for  making  the 
stove  in  this  manner  is  to  hold  the 
cooking  vessel  within  the  sides  extend- 
ing above  the  rods.  No  amount  of 
rocking  can  cause  the  vessel  to  slide 
from  the  stove  top,  and  as  the  stove  is 
weighted  with  the  sand,  it  cannot  be 
easily  moved  from  the  place  where  it 
is  set  in  the  canoe. 

The  use  of  such  a  stove  in  a  canoe 
has  the  advantage  that  the  stove  can 
be  cleaned  quickly,  as  the  ashes  and 
fire  can  be  dumped  into  the  water  and 
the  stove  used  for  a  storage  box.  The 
whole  thing  may  be  tossed  overboard 
and  a  new  one  made  for  another  trip. 


To  Prevent  Washboard  from  Slipping 
in  Tub 

The  modern  stationary  washtubs 
are  box-shaped,  with  one  side  set  at 
an  outward  angle  or  slope.  The  wash- 
board, when  used  in  these  tubs,  will 
slide  up  and  down  against  the  sloping 
part  of  the  tub  while  the  clothes  are 
rubbed  against  them.  This  annoying 
trouble  can  be  avoided  by  tacking,  on 
the  top  edge  of  the  board,  strips  of 
rubber  cut  from  a  discarded  bicycle 
tire,  placing  the  rubber  side  out.  The 
friction  of  the  rubber  prevents  any 
motion  of  the  board. — Contributed  by 
Jas.  A.  Hart,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


(ITo   print   on   celluloid,   use   a    good 
gloss  ink  and  old  rollers. 


Clips  to  Hold  Magazine  Pages 
Together 

When  a  magazine  is  placed  in  a 
bookcase  the  outer  pages  are  liable  to 
turn  back  if  it  is  inserted  with  the 
back  on  the  out- 
side. To  over- 
come this  diffi- 
culty I  made 
clips  for  each 
magazine  to  hold 
the  open  pages 
together.  Each 
clip  was  made 
of  wire,  about  8 
in.  long,  shaped 
as  shown.  The  width  of  the  clip  is 
made  equal  to  the  thickness  of  the 
magazine  and  the  extending  ends  are 


104 


slightly  pressed  together  so  that  they 
will  spring  and  grip  the  pages. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  A.  Saul,  E.  Lexington, 
Massachusetts. 


Slide-Opening  Cover  for  a  Plate 
Holder 

The  length  of  time  required  for  the 
slide  of  a  plate  holder  to  be  removed 


Fig.  I 


Fig. 2 


The  Two  Positions  Occupied  by  the  Slide-Opening 
Cover  as  It  is  Used  on  a  Camera 

on  a  reflecting  camera  spoiled  many 
of  my  plates,  because  strong  light 
would  enter  the  unprotected  slot  when 
the  camera  was  in  certain  positions. 
To  protect  this  slot  so  that  the  slide 
could  be  left  out  indefinitely,  I  made 
a  cover  of  a  piece  of  sheet  metal  hav- 
ing three  slots,  to  admit  screws  turned 
into  the  camera.  A  knob  was  attached 
at  the  center.  The  illustration  shows 
the  application  of  this  cover.  In  Fig. 
1  the  plate  holder  is  shown  slipped  in 
with  the  cover  back,  and  Fig.  2  shows 
the  slide  drawn  and  the  cover  over  the 
slot  opening. — Contributed  by  B.  J. 
Weeber,  New  York  City. 


Magnetic-Suspension  Pendulum 

When  a  pendulum  is  not  ])eriodically 
supplied  with  energy  its  amplitude 
grows  smaller  and  finally  the  motion 
ceases,  due  to  the  resistance  of  the  air 
and  the  friction  at  the  point  of  suspen- 
sion. Usually  the  suspension  is  in  the 
form  of  a  knife  edge  bearing  against 


plates  of  agate;  sometimes  the  pendu- 
lum rod  is  simply  attached  to  a  very 
slender  and  flexible  spring  without  any 
bearings.  But  the  minimum  of  friction 
is  obtained  by  means  of  magnetic  sus- 
pension, as  the  following  experiment 
will  prove. 

If  the  rod  of  a  pendulum  about  IS  in. 
long,  beating  half  seconds,  is  sharpened 
to  a  needle  point  and  suspended  from 
one  of  the  poles  of  a  magnet,  it  will  be 
found  that,  if  set  into  motion,  it  will 
continue  to  swing  15  times  as  long  as 
the  ordinary  knife-edge  suspended 
pendulum,  and  it  will  not  stop  until 
after  about  16  hours,  while  one  work- 
ing on  agate  plates  will  stop  in  from 
50  to  60  minutes.  Similarly  a  top,  pro- 
vided with  a  fine-pointed  axis  of  iron, 
will  spin  much  longer  when  suspended 
from  a  magnet. 

Magnetic  suspension  is  used  in  preci- 
sion instruments ;  for  example,  the 
minute  mirrors  which  are  used  in  cer- 
tain telegraph  systems  to  register  writ- 
ing photographically  at  the  receiving 
end. 


Use  for  Pencil  Stubs 

In  mechanical  drawings  cast  iron  is 
indicated  by  a  series  of  straight  lines 
across  the  parts  made  of  this  material. 
These  lines  can 
be  quickly 
made  with  the 
usually  dis- 
carded pencil 
stubs,  if  these 
are  saved  and 
sharpened  i  n 
the  following 
manner:  The  point  is  filed  flat,  as 
shown  at  A ;  then  a  slot  is  filed  in  the 
center  of  the  lead  with  a  knife  file,  as 
shown  at  B,  and  the  points  sharpened 
as  in  C.  In  this  way  two  lines  are 
drawn  at  one  stroke  neatly  and  in  half 
the  time. — Contributed  by  J.  Kolar, 
Maywood,  111. 


GTo  sharpen  a  carving  knife  draw  the 
edge  through  and  against  the  open 
edge  of  a  pair  of  shears. 


105 


How  to  Build  a  Paddle  -  Wheel  Boat 

By  P.  A.   BAUMEISTER 


THE  paddle-wheel  boat,  illustrated 
herewith,  was  built  in  the  spare 
time  I  had  on  rainy  afternoons  and 
Saturdays,  and  the  enjoyment  I  de- 
rived from  it  at  my  summer  camp  more 
than  repaid  me  for  the  time  spent  in 
the  building.  The  materials  used  in 
its  construction  were : 

long.   10  in.  wide  and  %  in. 

long.  5  in.  wide  and  Vi  in. 

wide  and 

wide  and 

thick. 


2  side  boards.  14  ft. 

thick. 
2   side    boards,   14  ft. 

thick. 
1  outside  keel   board.  14  ft.  long.  8 

Vi  in.  thick. 
1  inside  keel   board.   14    ft.   long.   10  in. 

Yi  in.  thick 
120  sq.  ft.  of  tongue-and-groove  boards,  %  in. 

for  bottom  and  wheel  boxes. 

1  piece.  2  in.  square  and  18  in.  long. 
4  washers. 

2  iron  cranks. 
10  screweyes. 
30  ft.  of  rope. 

Nails. 

The  dimensions  given  in  the  drawing 
will  be  found  satisfactory,  but  these 
may  be  altered  to  suit  the  conditions. 
The  first  step  will  be  to  cut  and  make 
the  sides.  Nail 
the  two  pieces 
forming  each  side 
together  and  then 
cut  the  end  boards 
and  nail  them  to 
the  sides.  Lay 
this  framework, 
bottom  side  up, 
on  a  level  surface 
and  proceed  t  o 
nail  on  the  bot- 
tom boards  across 
the  sides.  The 
ends  of  these 
boards  are  sawed 
off  flush  with  the 
outside  surface  of 
the  sides  after  they  are  nailed  in  place. 
The  material  list  calls  for  tongue-and- 


groove  boards  for  the  bottom,  but  plain 
boards  can  be  used,  although  it  is  then 
difficult  to  make  the  joint  water-tight. 
When  the  tongue-and-groove  boards 
are  used  a  piece  of  string,  well  soaked 
in  white  lead  or  paint  and  placed  in  the 
groove  of  each  board,  will  be  sufficient 
to  make  a  tight  joint. 

Having  finished  the  sides  and  bot- 
tom, the  next  step  will  be  to  fasten  on 
the  bottom  keel.  Adjust  the  board  to 
its  position  and  nail  it  in  the  center 
part  where  it  lies  flat  on  the  bottom 
boards,  then  work  toward  the  ends, 
gradually  drawing  it  down  over  the 
turn  and  nailing  it  down.  If  the  keel 
board  cannot  be  bent  easily,  it  is  best 
to  soak  it  in  hot  water  where  the  bend 
takes  place  and  the  wood  can  then  be 
nailed  down  without  the  fibers  break- 
ing. The  inside  keel  is  put  on  in  the 
same  manner,  but  reversed. 


The  next  procedure  is  to  make  the 
paddle    wheels.      The    hub    for    each 


106 


wheel  is  made  of  a  2-in.  square  piece 
of   timber,    9   in.    long.     Trim    off   the 


wood,  although  it  is  preferable  to  use 
for  this  purpose  two  large  iron  wash-  ■ 


Detail  Drawing  of  the  Boat  and  One  of  the  Paddle  Wheels.     All  the  Material  Required  for  the  Construction 
is  Such  That  can  be  Cut  and  Shaped  with  Ordinary  Tools  Found  in  the  Home  Workshop 


corners  to  make  8  sides  to  the  piece, 
then  bore  a  %-in.  hole  through  its 
center.  The  8  blades  of  each  wheel, 
16  in  all,  are  17  in.  long,  6  in.  wide  and 
%  in.  thick.  One  end  of  each  blade  is 
nailed  to  one  side  of  the  hub,  then  it 
is  braced  as  shown  to  strengthen  the 
wheel. 

The  cranks  are  made  of  round  iron, 
%  in.  in  diameter,  and  they  are  keyed 
to  the  wheels  with  large  nails  in  the 
manner    shown.      I    had   a   blacksmith 


PADDLE.  WHEEL   KEY 


RUDDER  CONTROL 
FASTENING 


Detail  of  Paddle -Wheel  Fastening,  the  Springboard 

Construction  and  the  Fastening  for  the 

Rudder  Control 

shape  the  cranks  for  me,  but  if  one 
has  a  forge,  the  work  can  be  done  at 
home  without  that  expense.  The  bear- 
ings   for    the    crankshafts    consist    of 


ers,  having  a  hole  slightly  larger  than 
the  diameter  of  the  shaft,  and  drill 
holes  in  their  rims  so  that  they  can 
be  screwed  to  the  wheel-box  upright 
as  shown.  The  bearings  thus  made  are 
lubricated  with  a  little  lard  or  grease. 

The  paddle-wheel  boxes  are  built 
over  the  wheels  with  the  dimensions 
given  in  the  drawing,  to  prevent  the 
splashing  of  water  on  the  occupants 
of  the  boat. 

The  trimmings  for  the  boat  consist 
of  three  seats,  a  running  board  and  a 
springboard.  The  drawings  show  the 
location  of  the  seats.  The  springboard 
is  built  up  of  4  boards,  %  in.  thick,  as 
shown,  only  nailing  them  together  at 
the  back  end.  This  construction  al- 
lows the  boards  to  slide  over  each 
other  when  a  person's  weight  is  on 
the  outer  end.  The  action  of  the 
boards  is  the  same  as  of  a  spring  on 
a  vehicle. 

It  is  necessary  to  have  a  good  brace 
across  the  boat  for  the  back  end  of 
the  springboard  to  catch  on — a  2  by 
4-in.  timber  being  none  too  large.  At 
the  point  where  the  springboard  rests 
on  the  front  seat  there  should  be 
another    good-sized    crosspiece.      The 


107 


board  can  be  held  in  place  by  a  cleat 
and  a  few  short  pieces  of  rope,  the 
cleat  being  placed  across  the  board 
back  of  the  brace.  A  little  diving  plat- 
form is  attached  on  the  outer  end  of 
the  springboard  and  a  strip  of  old 
carpet  or  gunny  sack  placed  on  it  to 
prevent  slivers  from  running  into  the 
flesh.  In  making  the  spring  and  run- 
ning board,  it  is  advisable  to  make 
them  removable  so  that  the  boat  can 
be  used  for  other  purposes. 

The  boat  is  steered  with  a  foot-oper- 
ated lever,  the  construction  of  which 
is  clearly  shown.  For  the  tiller-rope 
guides,  large  screweyes  are  used  and 
also  for  the  rudder  hinges,  the  pin  of 
the  hinge  being  a  large  nail.  The  hull 
can  be  further  strengthened  by  putting 
a  few  angle-iron  braces  either  on  the 
in  or  outside. 

To  make  the  boat  water-tight  will 
require  calking  by  filling  the  cracks 
with  twine  and  white  lead  or  thick 
paint.  The  necessary  tools  are  a  broad, 
dull  chisel  and  a  mallet.  A  couple  of 
coats  of  good  paint,  well  brushed  into 
the  cracks,  will  help  to  make  it  water- 
tight as  well  as  shipshape.  The  boat 
may  leak  a  little  when  it  is  first  put 
into  the  water,  but  after  a  few  hours 
of  soaking,  the  boards  will  swell  and 
close  the  openings. 

This  boat  was  used  for  carrying 
trunks,  firewood,  rocks,  sand,  and  for 
fishing,  and  last,  but  not  least,  for 
swimming.  The  boat  is  capable  of 
carrying  a  load  of  three-quarters  of  a 
ton.  It  draws  very  little  water,  there- 
by allowing  its  use  in  shallow  water. 
It  has  the  further  advantage  that  the 
operator  faces  in  the  direction  the  boat 
is  going,  furnishing  the  power  with  his 
hands  and  steering  with  his  feet. 


A  Camp  Loom 

The  camper  who  desires  to  "rough 
it"  as  much  as  possible  and  to  carry 
only  the  necessities  will  find  it  quite  a 
comfort  to  construct  the  bedding  from 
grass  or  moss  by  weaving  it  in  the 
manner  of  making  a  rag  carpet,  using 
heavy  twine  or  small  rope  as  the  warp. 
Two  stakes  are   set  the  width  of  the 


bed  or  mattress  to  be  made,  and  a  cross 
stick  is  attached  to  their  tops.  Several 
stakes  are  set  parallel  with   the  cross 


Loom  Constructed  of  Sticks  for  Weaving  Grass 
or  Moss  into  a  Camp  Mattress 

stick  and  at  a  distance  to  make  the 
length  of  the  mattress.  The  warp  is 
tied  between  the  tops  of  the  stakes  and 
the  cross  stick.  An  equal  number  of 
cords  are  then  attached  to  the  cross 
stick  and  to  another  loose  cross  stick 
which  is  used  to  move  the  cords  up  and 
down  while  the  grass  or  moss  is  placed 
in  for  the  woof.  The  ends  of  the  warp 
are  then  tied  to  hold  it  together.  When 
breaking  up  camp  the  cords  can  be  re- 
moved and  carried  to  the  next  camp. — 
Contributed  by  W.  P.  Shaw,  Bloor 
West,  Can. 


A  Milk-Bottle  Carrier 

Carrying  a  milk  bottle  by  the  rim  is 
tiresome  work  for  the  fingers,  so  I  con- 
structed a  handle,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  from  a  piece  of  wire.  The  car- 
rier can  be  easily  placed  in  the  pocket. 

The  part  fitting  under  the  rim  of 
the  bottle  neck  is  bent  to  form  two 
semicircles,  one  hooking  permanently 
at  A,  while  the  other  is  hooked  at   B 


A  Carrier  Made  of  Wire  to  Quickly   Attach  on  a 
Milk -Bottle  Neck 

after  it  is  sprung  around  the  neck  of 
the  bottle. — Contributed  by  Lawrence 
B.  Robbins,  Harwich,  Mass. 


108 


How   to   Make   a   War   Kite 


By   park  SNYDER 

The  material  required  for  the  makins; 
of  a  war  kite  is  three  pine  sticks,  each 
60  in.  long,  one  stick  54  in.  long,  one 
stick  18  in.  long,  all  i/o  in.  square;  4 
yd.  of  cambric ;  a  box  of  tacks ;  some 
linen  thread,  and  16  ft.  of  stout  twine. 

Place  two  6()-in.  sticks  parallel  with 
each  other  and  18  in.  apart,  then  lay 
the  54-in.  piece  across  at  right  angles 
to  them  18  in.  from  the  upper  ends,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  fasten  the  joints 
with  brads.  At  a  point  21  in.  below 
this  crosspiece,  attach  the  18-in.  cross- 
piece. 

The  extending  ends  of  all  the  three 
long  pieces  are  notched.  Fig.  2,  and  the 
line  is  stretched  taut  around  them,  as 
shown  by  the  dotted  lines. 

If  the  cambric  is  not  of  sufficient  size 
to  cover  the  frame,  two  pieces  must  be 
sewed  together,  then  a  piece  cut  out  to 
the  shape  of  the  string,  allowing  1  in.  to 
project  all  around  for  a  lap.  The  cam- 
bric is  sewn  fast  to  the  string  with  the 
linen  thread.  Fasten  the  cloth  to  the 
frame  part  with  the  tacks,  spacing 
them  1  in.  apart.  The  space  in  the 
center,  between  the  sticks,  is  cut 
out.     Make  two  pieces  of  the  re- 


m  a  1  n  1  n  g        " — ^  '-^V^ 
goods,  one  36  in.  by   18 
in.,  and  the  other  36  in. 
by  21   in.     The   remain 
stick  is  fastened  to  these 
cambric,   as    shown    in 
the  whole   is  fastened 
frame  so  as  to  make 
projection.     The    bri 


mg    60 -in. 

pieces     of 

Fig.    3,   and 

to  the  main 

a    V  -  shaped 

die     strings. 


for  giving  the  proper  /  distribution  of 
pull  on  the  line  to  /  the  kite,  are 
fastened,  one  to  the  /  upper  end  of  the 
long  stick  in  the  /  V-shaped  piece 
attached  to  the  /  kite,  and  the  other 
to  the  lower  /end,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  4.  The/  inclination  can  be 
varied  to  suit  /  the  builder  by  chang- 
The  Line  should  /^^g  the  point  of  at- 
be  a  Very  Strong  /    tachment   of    the  kite 

One,  Then  Ban-     /i-  .        .,        i_-,,  t-- 

ners   can   be      /      lUlC  to   the  bridle.        Il   it 

Flown  on  It  /  is  desired  to  fly  the  kite 
directly  overhead,  attach 
the  line  above  the  regular 
point  and  for  low  flying  make 
the  connection  below  this  point. 
The  regular  point  is  found  by  trial 
flights  with  the  line  fastened  tem- 
porarily to  the  bridle,  after  which  the 
fastening  is  made  permanent. 


4t 


y 

V 

/ 

li 

/ 

V.S- 

-ilM— * 

-ij--, 

\ 

i|' 

1 

\ 

1 

\ 

I 

\ 

1 

\ 

1 

\ 

1 

\ 

i 

! 

The  Sticks  are  Fastened 
Solidly  with  Brads,  and 
the  Cloth  Sewed  to  the 
String  around  Their  Ends 


FIG  2 


FIG  1 
3' 


FIG  3 


I 


FIG  4 


109 


Paper   Glider   That   Loops   the   Loop 


By  C.  a.  THOMPSON 

corners  of  the  wings  are  bent  up  as  in 
Fig.  2,  and,  further,  the  rear  corner 
of  the  keel  is  bent  at  right  angles.  Fig. 
7,  whereupon  it  is  thrown  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner.  It  then  takes  the  course 
shown  in  Fig.  8. 


FiG.S 


rie.3  ~---.. 

The  usual  paper 
glider  shaped  a  s 
shown  in  Fig.  1  can 
be  made  to  loop  the 
loop  and  make  cork- 
screw flights  if  pre- 
pared according  to 
sketches  herewith. 
It  should  be  care- 
fully made  in  the 
first  place  so  that  in 
its  regular  form  it 
flies  perfectly 
straight. 

To  make  the  glider 
loop,  the  rear  cor- 
ners of  the  wings 
should  be  turned  up  at  right  angles,  as 
in  Fig.  3,  and  the  glider  launched  with 
a  great  deal  of  force  with  the  nose 
pointed  slightly  upward.  This  will  re- 
quire some  practice,  but  one  soon  learns 
the  trick.  After  looping  once,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  3,  the  glider  descends  in  vol- 
plane. This  form  of  glider  will  also 
right  itself,  if  dropped  from  a  height, 
nose  downward,  as   shown   in    Fig-.   4. 

For  a  corkscrew  flight  the  glider  is 
prepared  as  in  Fig.  5 ;  one  rear  corner 
being  bent  up  and  the  other  down.  In 
this  form  it  flies  horizontally,  or  down- 
ward, while  rapidly  rotating  around  its 
longitudinal  axis,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6. 

To  make  a  spiral  descent,  the  rear 


A  Water  Filter 

A  cheap  and  very  effective  water 
filter  can  be  made  of  a  flower  pot  by 
plugging  the  hole  in 
the  bottom  with  a 
piece  of  sponge  and 
fitting  it  as  follows : 
Place  powdered 
charcoal  on  top  of 
the  sponge  to  a 
depth  of  1  in.,  then 
1  in.  of  clean  silver 
sand,  and  lastly  2  in. 
of  small  stones  and 
gravel.  It  is  hung 
with  a  bail  at  the 
top. 


Ordinary  Paper  Glider  and  the  Manner 

of  Throwing  It  to  Make  the 

Different  Flights 


110 


A   Combination   Electrically   Operated 
Door    Lock 

The  illustration  shows  a  very  useful 
application  of  an  ordinary  electric  door 
lock  in  the  construction  of  a  combina- 


The  Brass-Tack  Heads  Holding  the  Numerals  in 
Place  Constitute  the  Combination  Points 

tion  lock  and  alarm  to  be  operated 
from  the  outside  of  the  building^. 

The  three  numerals,  1,  2,  and  4,  or 
any  other  combination  of  numbers 
constituting  the  house  number  on  a 
door,  are  made  of  some  kind  of  insu- 
lating material  and  fastened  in  place 
on  a  base  of  insulating  fiber,  or  wood, 
about  1/4  in.  thick,  by  means  of  ordi- 
nary brass-headed  tacks,  as  indicated 
by  the  black  dots.  The  tacks  will  ex- 
tend through  the  base  a  short  distance 
so  the  electrical  connections  may  be 
made  by  soldering  wires  to  them,  as 
shown  by  the  diagram,  alternate  tacks 
being  connected  together  with  the  ex- 
ception of  three ;  for  instance.  A,  B, 
and  C. 

The  terminals  of  the  leads  that  are 
connected  to  alternate  tacks  are  in  turn 
connected  to  the  terminals  of  a  circuit 
composed  of  an  ordinary  vibrating 
bell,  D,  and  battery,  E.  If  any  two 
adjacent  tack  heads  be  connected  to- 
gether, except  tacks  A,  B,  and  C,  the 
bell  circuit  will  be  completed  and  the 
bell  ring,  which  will  serve  as  an  indica- 
tion that  some  one  is  tampering  with 
the  circuit.  The  person  knov^'ing  the 
combination,  connects  the  tack  heads  A 
and  B,  and  at  the  same  time  connects 
the  tack  head  C  with  F  or  G,  or  any 


other  tack  head  that  is  connected  to 
the  plus  side  of  the  battery,  whereby 
a  circuit  will  be  completed  through  the 
lock  H  and  the  door  is  opened.  Any 
metallic  substance,  such  as  a  knife, 
key,  or  finger  ring,  may  be  used  in 
making  the  above  indicated  connec- 
tion, and  there  will  be  no  need  of  car- 
rying a  key  for  this  particular  door  so 
long  as  the  combination  is  known. 

The  base  upon  which  the  numbers 
are  mounted  and  through  w^iich  the 
points  of  the  tacks  protrude,  should 
be  mounted  on  a  second  base  that  has 
a  recess  cut  in  its  surface  to  accom- 
modate the  wires  and  points  of  the 
tacks. 

The  combination  may  be  made  more 
or  less  complicated,  as  desired,  by 
connecting  the  tacks  in  different  ways, 
and  b)'  using  a  separate  battery  for 
the  bell  and  lock.  The  circuit  leading 
to  the  door  lock,  if  there  is  one  already 
installed,  may  be  used  and  then  no 
extra  circtiit  is  needed. 

Such  a  device  has  been  used  on  a 
private-desk  drawer  with  entire  satis- 
faction. The  battery  was  placed  in 
the  back  end  of  the  drawer,  and  if  it 
happened  to  fail,  a  new  one  could  be 
connected  to  the  points  B  and  J  so 
that  the  drawer  could  be  opened  and 
a  new  battery  put  in. 


Lock  for  a  Fancy  Hairpin 

To  avoid  losing  a  fancy  hairpin,  bend 
one  leg  of  the  pin  as  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration.       The     hair 
causrht     in     the     notch 


The  Bend  in  the  Pin  will  Hold  in  the  Hair  and 
Prevent  the  Loss  of  the  Pin 

formed  l)y  the  bend  will  prevent  the 
pin  from  dropping  out. — Contributed 
by  W.  C.  Loy,  Rochester,  Ind. 


CA  metal  surface  polished  with  oil 
will  keep  clean  longer  than  when 
polished  dry. 


An    Aeroplane    Kite 


By  W.  A.   REICH 


After  building-  a  number  of  kites 
from  a  recent  description  in  Amateur 
Mechanics  I  branched  out  and  con- 
structed the  aeroplane  kite  shown  in 
the  illustration,  which  has  excited  con- 
siderable comment  in  the  neighborhood 
on  account  of  its  appearance  and  be- 
havior in  the  air. 

The  main  frame  consists  of  a  center- 
stick,  A,  31  in.  long,  and  two  cross- 
sticks,  of  which  one,  B,  is  31  in.  long 
and  the  other,  C,  ISi/o  in.  long.  The 
location  of  the  crosspieces  on  the 
centerpiece  A  is  shown  in  the  sketch, 
the  front  piece  B  being  1%  in.  from  the 
end,  and  the  rear  piece  C,  Si/i  in.  from 
the  other  end.  The  ends  of  the  sticks 
have  small  notches  cut  to  receive  a 
string,  D,  which  is  run  around  the  out- 


The  Kite  Being  Tailless  RiHes  the    Air  Weaves  Like 
an  Aeroplane  in  a  Steady   Breeze 

side  to  make  the  outline  of  the  frame 
and  to  brace  the  parts.  Two  cross- 
strings  are  placed  at  E  and  F,  7  in. 
from  either  end  of  the  centerpiece  A, 
other  brace  strings  being  crossed,  as 
shown  at  G,  and  then  tied  to  the  cross- 
string  F  on  both  sides,  as  at  H. 

The  long  crosspiece  B  is  curved  up- 
ward to  form  a  bow,  the  center  of 
which  should  be  3i/4  in-  above  the 
string  by  which  its  ends  are  tied  to- 
gether. The  shorter  crosspiece  is  bent 
and  tied  in  the  same  manner  to  make 
the  curve  2i4  in.,  and  the  centerpiece 
to  curve  1%  in.,  both  upward.  The 
front  and  rear  parts,  between  the  end 
and  the  cross-strings  E  and  F,  are 
covered  with  yellow  tissue  paper, 
which  is  pasted  to  the  crosspieces  and 
strings.  The  small  wings  L  are  purple 
tissue  paper,  4  in.  wide  at  M  and  taper- 
ing to  a  point  at  N. 

The  bridle  string  is  attached  on  the 
centerpiece  A  at  the  junction  of  the 
crosspieces  B  and  C,  and  must  be  ad- 
justed for  the  size  and  weight  of  the 
kite.  The  kite  is  tailless  and  requires 
a  steady  breeze  to  make  it  float  in  the 
air  currents  like  an  aeroplane. 

The  bridle  string  and  the  bending 
of  the  sticks  must  be  adjusted  until 
the  desired  results  are  obtained.     The 


111 


113 


bridle  string  should    be    tied    so    that 
it  will  about  center  under  the   cross- 


the  air  currents  properly.     The  center 
of  gravity  will  not  be  the  same  in  the 


General  Plan  and  Outline 
of  the  Kite,  ^Vhich  may  be 
Built  in  Any  Size,  If  the 
Proportions  are  Kept,  and 
Its  Appearance  in  the 
Air   on    a   Steady    Breeze 


Stick  B  for  the  best  results,  but  a  construction  of  each  kite  and  the  string 
slight  change  from  this  location  may  can  be  located  only  by  trial,  after 
be    necessary    to    make    the    kite    ride      which  it  is  permanently  fastened. 


Distilling  Apparatus  for  Water 

Pure  water,  free  from  all  foreign  sub- 
Stances,  is  frequently  wanted  for  mak- 
ing   up    photographic    solutions    and 

D 


Homemade  Still  for  Removing  the  Impurities  in  Water 
That  is  Used  in  Mixing  Chemicals 

many  other  purposes.  An  apparatus 
for  distilling  water  can  be  very  easily 
made  from  galvanized  pipe  fittings. 
The  outer  cooling  jacket  A  is  a  piece 
of  1-in.  pipe,  2  ft.  long,  threaded  on 
both  ends,  and  bored  and  tapped  for 
%-!"■  pipe  at  B  and  C.  A  hole  is  bored 
and  tapped  for  i/2-in.  pipe  in  each  of 
the  two  caps  used  on  the  ends  of  the 
pipe  A,  and  a  piece  of  i/o-in.  pipe,  D, 
2  ft.  8  in.  long,  is  run  through  the  holes 
as  shown.  The  joints  are  soldered  to 
make  them  water-tight.  Two  '^-in. 
nipples,  4  in.  long,  are  screwed  in  at  B 
and  C.  The  retort,  or  boiler,  E,  in 
which  the  impure  water  is  boiled  may 
be    made    of   any    suitable    vessel    and 


heated  with  a  Bunsen  or  gas  burner. 
A  beaker,  or  other  vessel,  F,  is  placed 
below  the  lower  end  of  the  small  pipe. 
The  cold  water  from  the  faucet,  which 
flows  into  the  outer  jacket  at  C  and 
out  at  B,  condenses  the  steam  in  the 
small  pipe  D,  turning  it  into  water 
which  falls  into  the  beaker  in  large 
drops.  The  water  is  often  distilled  a 
second  time  to  remove  any  impurities 
which  it  might  still  contain. — Contrib- 
uted by  O.  E.  Tronnes,  Evanston,  111. 


Telephone   Stand  for  a   Sloping  Desk 

Having  a  sloping-top  desk  and  being 
compelled  to  use  the  telephone  quite 
frequently,  I  devised  a  support  for  the 
telephone  so  that  it  might  stand  level 
and  not  fall  off.  The  sides  of  the  stand 
were  cut  on  the  same  slope  as  the 
desk  top,  and  their  under  edges  were 


Stand  with  a  Level  Surface  for  a    Desk    Telephone 
to  be  Used  on  a  Sloping  Desk  Top 

provided  with  rubber  strips  to  prevent 
slipping. — Contributed  by  J.  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


113 


Tandem  Monoplane  Glider 

By  GEORGE  F.   MACE 


The  monoplane  glider  illustrated  has 
better  fore-and-aft  stability  than  the 
biplane,  is  lighter  in  proportion  to  the 
supporting  surface,  simpler  to  build, 
and  requires  very  little  time  to  as- 
semble or  take  apart.  The  material  list 
is  as  follows : 

FRAME 
4  pieces  of  bamboo.  14  ft.  long,  tapering  from  l'/4  to 

1  in. 
8  pieces  of  spruce,  M  in.  tiiick.  1  in.  wide,  and  3  ft.  loner. 
8  pieces  of  spruce.  'A  in.  tiiicli.  1  in.  wide,  and  2  ft. 
long. 

WINGS 
4  main-wine  bars,  spruce.  %  in.  thick.   IM  in.  wide. 

and'  IS  ft.  long. 
8  wing  crosspieces.  spruce.  %  in.  square,  and  4  ft.  long. 
33  wing  ribs,    poplar  or  spruce.   ?4  in.    thick.    %    in. 
wide,  and  64  in.  long. 

The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  make  the 
main  frame  which  is  composed  of  the 
four  bamboo 
poles.  The  poles 
take  the  cor- 
ners of  a  2-ft. 
square  space  and 
are  supported 
with  the  pieces  of 
spruce  that  are  2 
ft.  and  3  ft.  long, 


the  two  upper  poles.  All  joints  should 
be  fastened  with  i\-in.  stove  bolts. 
The  wire  used  to  truss  the  glider  is 
No.  16  gauge  piano  wire.  The  trussing 
is  done  in  all  directions,  crossing  the 
wires  between  the  frame  parts,  except 
in  the  center  or  space  between  the  four 
poles. 

The  framework  of  the  main  wings  is 
put  together  by  bolting  one  of  the 
crosspieces  at  each  end  of  two  wing 
bars,  then  another  4  ft.  from  each  end, 
whereupon  the  wing  bars  are  bolted 
to  the  main  frame.  The  frame  is  then 
braced  diagonally  between  these 
pieces.  The  ribs,  spaced  1  ft.  apart, 
are   fastened   to  this  frame  with   1-in. 


The  Start  of  the  Glide  should 
be  Made  from  the  Top  of  a  Hill, 
Then  a  Little  Run  will  Carry 
the  Airman  Several  Hundred 
Feet  through  the  Air 


the  shorter  lengths  running  horizon- 
tally and  the  longer  upright,  so  that 
each  upright  piece  extends  1  ft.  above 


brads.  The  ribs  are  so  bent  that  the 
highest  part  will  be  5  or  6  in.  above 
the  horizontal.     The  bending  must  be 


114 


uniform   and   is   done   when    fastening 
them  in  place. 

The  material  used  to  cover  the  wings 
and  rudders  is  strong  muslin.  The 
cloth  is  first  tacked  to  the  front  wing 


The  two  vertical  rectangular  spaces 
in  the  main  frame,  just  under  the  rear 
wings,  are  covered  with  cloth  to  act  as 
a  rudder.  The  upper  and  lower  brac- 
ing wires  for  the  wings  are  attached 

18' 


^ 


ELEVATION 
MAIN    FRAME 


Details   of  Tandem    Monoplane   Glider,    Showing  the 

Main  Frame  and  Wing  Construction,  and  the 

Manner  of  Placing  the  Crossed  Bracing 

Wires  Between  the  Parts  and 

to  the  Wing  Ends 

bar,  then  to  the  ribs,  and  sewed  to  a 
wire  which  is  fastened  between  the 
ends  of  the  ribs.  Large  brass-head 
tacks  should  be  used  through  a  strip 
of  tape  to  fasten  the  cloth  to  the  ribs. 
The  rear  wings  are  constructed  in  a 
similar  manner.  After  the  cloth  is  in 
place  it  is  coated  with  starch  or  varnish. 


with  snaps  and  rings  so  that  the  glider 
can  be  easily  taken  apart. 

It  is  best  not  to  use  the  glider  in  a 
wind  greater  than  30  miles  an  hour. 
It  is  started  from  the  top  of  a  hill  in 
the  usual  manner.  Glides  can  be  made 
running  from  GO  to  several  hundred 
feet. 


Carrier  for  a  Suitcase 

Where  it  is  necessary  to  carry  a  well 
filled  and  heavy  suitcase  the  light  truck 
shown  in  the  sketch  will  be  a  great  as- 
sistance.    The  truck  is  constructed  on 


v...X'-..?w 


The  Small  Truck  will  Greatly  Assist  the  Carrying 
of  a  Heavily  Loaded  Suitcase 

the  folding  plan,  similar  to  a  go-cart, 
and  can  be  carried  on  the  side  of  the 
case.  The  wheels  are  those  used  on  a 
go-cart,  with  rubber  tires  and  about  6 
in.    in    diameter.     These   are   fitted   to 


standards  carrying  a  hinged  top  piece, 
the  upper  ends  of  the  standards  being 
hinged  in  a  like  manner.  The  stand- 
ards should  be  cut  to  the  proper  length 
for  the  person  carrying  the  suitcase. — 
Contributed  by  Mrs.  Harriet  M.  S.  Ker- 
baug:h,  Allentown,   Pa. 


Light  in  a  Keyhole 

Remove  the  lock  and  cut  the  mortise 
deep  enough  to  admit  a  3-volt  battery 
lamp  with  a  suitable  socket  attached. 
The  lamp  is  then  connected  to  wires 
which  are  concealed  and  run  to  a  bat- 
tery of  three  dry  cells  in  the  basement 
or  other  convenient  place.  A  small 
push  button  is  attached  in  the  line  and 
placed  near  the  knob  on  the  door.  A 
small  recess  must  be  cut  in  the  mortise 
so  that  the  light  from  the  lamp  will 
shine  directly  on  the  inside  of  the  plate 
over  the  keyhole. — Contributed  by 
Armand  F.  Lamarre,  St.  Renii,  Can. 


115 


How  to  Make  a  Monoplane  Glider 


By  WILLIAM  GROTZINGER 


A  simple  glider  of  the  monoplane 
type  can  be  easily  constructed  in  a 
small  workshop  ;  the  cost  of  materials  is 
not  great  and  the  building  does  not  re- 
quire skilled  workmen.  Select  the  ma- 
terial with  care  and  see  that  the  wood 
is  straight-grained  and  free  from  knots. 
The  following  list  of  spruce  pieces  is 
required : 

4  main  wint'  spars,  K  hy  V4  in.  by  17  ft. 
2  rudder  spars,  %  by  1  in,  by  8  ft. 

5  wins  crosspieces,  %  by  ?4  m.  by  4  ft. 

4  rudder  crosspieces.  H  by  h  in.  by  2  ft, 

1  piece  for  main-frame  crosspieces,  /^  by  1  in.  by  12  ft. 

2  arm  pieces.  VA  by  2  in,  by  3M  ft. 

The  following  list  of  poplar  pieces  is 
required  in  making  the  supports  for 
the  cloth  covering  on  the  wings  and 
rudders. 

34  main-wing  ribs.  5i  by  ^  by  64  in. 
8  rudder  ribs.  K  by  '4  by  36  in. 
5  rudder  nbs,  >i  by  %  by  48 in. 


The  following  list  of  oak  pieces  is 
needed : 

1  piece.  H  by  IH  in.  by  12  ft. 
1  piece,  5's  by  V/i  in.  by  6  ft, 

1  piece.  %  by  ^  in.  by  3'^  ft. 

2  pieces,  H  by  154  in.  by  5  ft. 
4  pieces,  ?i  by  1  by  28  in. 

In  addition  to  the  lists  given,  four 
pieces  of  bamboo,  16  ft.  long,  tapering 
from  1  or  ly^  in.  at  the  large  end  to 
%  in.  at  the  small  end,  are  used  for  the 
main  frame. 

Construction 

The  first  part  to  make  is  the  main 
frame  A  which  is  constructed  of  the 
four  bamboo  poles.  They  are  made 
into  a  rectangular  frame  with  cross- 
bars marked  B  cut  to  the  right  length 
from  the  12-ft.  piece  of  spruce,  Y^  in. 
by  1  in.    The  bars  C  and  D  are  of  oak 


Monoplane  Glider  in  Flight 


FRONT  ELEVATION 


Details  of  Monoplane  Glider 
11« 


117 


cut  from  the  6-ft.  piece,  %  in.  by  l^i  i"- 
All  of  these  crossbars  are  fastened  to- 
gether in  rectangular  form  by  means 
of  stove  bolts.  The  bamboo  poles  are 
then  bolted  to  the  inner  corners  of  the 
frames  with  i6-in.  bolts.  Place  the 
bolts  through  the  bamboo  close  to  a 
joint  to  prevent  splitting.  The  frame  is 
then  rigidly  trussed  by  diagonal  wires 
marked  E  crossing  all  rectangles.  The 
wire  used  for  trussing  all  the  parts 
throughout  the  glider  is  piano  wire,  16 
gauge.  The  arm  pieces  are  bolted  to 
the  sides  of  the  rectangular  frames  be- 
neath the  wings. 

The  framework  of  the  main  wings  or 
planes  should  be  put  together  by  bolt- 
ing the  cross  struts  F  at  regular  inter- 
vals on  the  under  side  of  the  main  spars 
G.  Brace  the  frame  diagonally  with 
the  piano  wire.  The  ribs  are  nailed  to 
the  main  spars  by  using  1-in.  brads. 
The  ribs  are  spaced  1  ft.  apart,  and 
curved  so  that  the  highest  part  will  be 
5  in.  from  the  horizontal.  Each  rib  ex- 
tends 15  in.  back  of  the  rear  spar.  The 
rudder  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

The  vertical  rudder  is  made  to  fold. 
A  small  pocket  arrangement  H  is  made 
from  which  the  rigs  of  the  vertical 
rudder  diverge. 

The  covering  of  the  wings  and  rud- 
ders should  be  a  good  quality  of  mus- 
lin or  some  light  aeronautical  goods. 
The  cloth  should  be  tacked  to  the  front 
spar,  to  the  ribs,  and  then  sewn  to  a 
wire  which  connects  the  ends  of  the 
ribs. 

Construct  the  triangular  arrangement 
marked  J  to  which  the  wings  are 
braced.      The   wing  bar    supports    are 


shown  in  the  illustration.  The  bot- 
tom wires  are  braced  to  the  crossbar  K 
shown  in  the  front  elevation. 

The  bracing  wires  are  all  fastened  to 
a  snaphook  which  can  be  snapped  into 
the  rings  at  the  places  marked  L.  This 
method  will  allow  one  quickly  to  as- 
semble or  take  apart  the  plane  and 
store  it  in  a  small  place.  The  vertical 
rudder  should  be  braced  from  each  rib 
to  the  front  spar  of  the  horizontal  rud- 
der and  then  braced  by  the  wires  M 
to  hold  the  rudder  from  falling  back. 
The  rudder  is  then  braced  to  the  main 
frame  and  the  main  frame  is  braced  by 
the  wires  N  to  the  wings.  This  will 
hold  the  plane  rigid.  Use  snaphooks 
and  eyebolts  wherever  possible  so  that 
the  plane  can  be  quickly  assembled. 
Assembling 

The  triangular  arrangement  J  is 
bolted  to  the  wings  and  the  top  wires 
put  in  place.  The  wings  are  then  put 
on  the  main  frame  and  bolted  to  the 
bars  marked  C  and  D.  after  which  the 
bottom  wires  are  fixed  in  place. 

Gliding 

Take  the  glider  to  the  top  of  a  hill, 
step  into  the  center  of  the  main  frame 
just  a  little  back  of  the  center  of  the 
wings.  Put  your  arms  around  the  arm 
pieces,  face  the  wind  and  run  a  few 
steps.  You  will  be  lifted  off  the  ground 
and  carried  down  the  slope.  The  bal- 
ancing is  done  by  shifting  the  legs. 
The  glides  should  be  short  at  first,  but 
by  daily  practice,  and.  as  the  operator 
gains  skill,  glides  can  be  made  up  to  a 
length  of  several  hundred  feet.  Do  not 
attempt  to  fly  in  a  wind  having  a  veloc- 
ity  of   more    than    15    miles    an    hour. 


Exerciser   for   a   Chained   Dog 


The  exerciser  consists  of  a  disk,  5  ft. 
in  diameter,  pivoted  in  the  ground  near 
the  kennel.  The  disk  revolves  on  a 
%-in.  pin  set  in  a  post  made  of  a  4  by 
4-in.  piece  of  timber.  The  disk  is  made 
of  common  lumber  fastened  together 
with  battens  on  the  under  side.  Our 
dog  seems  to  enjoy  this  kind  of  exer- 


Revolving  Disk  Exerciser 

cise. — Contributed    by    Hazel    Duncan, 
Denver,  Colo. 


118 


A  Laboratory  Gas  Generator 

The  sketch  illustrates  a  gas  genera- 
tor designed  for  laboratories  where 
gases   are    needed   in    large    quantities 


Gas  Generator  of  Large  Capacity  That  will  Work 
Automatically  as  the  Gas  is  Removed 

and  frequently.  The  shelf  holding  the 
large  imerted  bottle  is  of  thick  wood, 
and  to  reinforce  the  whole  apparatus, 
a  1-in.  copper  strip  is  placed  around 
the  bottle  tightly  and  fastened  with 
screws  turned  into  the  woodwork. 
The  shelf  above  is  attached  last,  and 
upon  it  rests  the  bottle  of  commercial 
acid  required  in  the  gas  generation. 
The  pump  shown  is  for  use  in  starting 
the  siphon. 

The  large  bottle  used  as  a  generator 
may  be  either  a  3  or  5-gal.  size,  and 
after  it  is  placed  in  the  position  shown, 
a  sufficient  amount  of  the  solid  reagent 
needed  in  gas  generating  is  placed  in 
the  mouth  before  the  exit  tube,  leading 
away  below,  is  fixed  in  position.  If 
sulphureted  hydrogen  is  required,  fer- 
rous sulphide  is  used;  if  hydrogen  is 
required,  zinc  is  placed  within ;  and  to 


make  a  carbon  dioxide,  marble,  or  its 
equivalent,  is  inserted.  Whatever  gas 
is  required,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the 
solid  material  is  put  in  to  last  for  some 
time  in  order  not  to  disturb  the  fas- 
tenings. 

^\'hen  all  is  ready,  the  pump  is  used 
gently  to  start  the  acid  over  the  siphon 
and  into  the  generator  from  below. 
The  gas  generated  by  the  action  of  the 
acid  on  the  solid  soon  fills  the  bottle. 
The  screw  clamp  on  the  exit  tube  is 
loosened  and  the  gas  passes  into  the 
bottle  of  water  and  charges  it,  in  the 
case  when  sulphureted  hydrogen  is  re- 
quired. In  the  other  cases,  when  suffi- 
cient gas  has  been  generated,  the 
screw  clamp  is  tightened,  and  the  gas 
soon  attains  considerable  pressure 
which  forces  the  acid  back  out  of  the 
generator  and  into  the  acid  bottle 
above.  The  whole  apparatus  now 
comes  to  an  equilibrium,  and  the  gas 
in  the  generator  is  ready  for  another 
use.— Contributed  by  W.  M.  Mills, 
Bakersfield,  Cal. 


Holding  Small  Armatures  for  Winding 

I^rocure  a  strip  of  sheet  metal,  G  in. 
long,  1  in.  wide,  or  as  wide  as  the  arma- 
ture core  is  long,  and  /^  in.  thick.  Bend 
this  into  a  U-shape,  as  shown,  and  file 
each  end  similar  to  the  barb  on  a  fish- 
hook. Drill  two  holes  for  a  bolt  to  pass 
through  the  sheet-metal  ends.  Fasten 
a  screw  or  bolt  in  the  center  of  the 
bend,  to  be  used  for  gripping  in  a  chuck 


Armature  Cores  are  Easily  Revolved  to  Fill  the  Core 
Openings  with  Insulated  Wire 

or  polishing  head.  Core  segments  can 
be  quickly  wound  with  this  device. — 
Contributed  by  Geo.  B.  Schulz,  Austin, 
Illinois. 


Footstool  for  Cement  Floors 

A  clerk  finding  the  cement  floor  of 
the  office  uncomfortaljly  cold  to  the 
feet,  devised  a  footstool  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  A  shallow  box  was  pro- 
cured, and  four  small  truck  casters 
were  fastened  to  the  bottom.  A  piece 
of  carpet  was  laid  on  the  inside  of  the 
bottom  and  some  old  newspapers 
placed  on  top  of  it.  When  seated  at 
the  desk,  he  placed  his  feet  inside  the 
box  on  the  papers.  The  casters  ele- 
vated the  box  from  the  cement,  just 
high  enough  to  avoid  dampness  and 
cold,  and  permitted  an  easy  change  of 
position. — Contributed  by  L.  Alberta 
Norrell,  Gainesville,  Ga. 


Homemade  Telegraph  Sounder 

The  material  required  to  construct  a 
telegraph  sounder,  like  the  one  shown 
in  the  sketch,  consists  of  two  binding 
posts,  magnets,  a  piece  of  sheet  metal, 
and  a  rubber  band.  These  are  arranged 
as  shown,  on  a  wood  base  or,  better  still, 
on  a  metal  box.  In  using  a  metal-box 
base,  be  sure  to  insulate  the  connections 
at  the  magnet  coils  and  binding  posts. 

This    instrument   will   be   found   by 


Laboratory  Force  Filter 

The  sketch  represents  a  force  filter 
which  is  well  adapted  for  use  in  small 
laboratories.     The  water  is  turned  on 


An  Inexpensive  and  Homemade    Sounder  for  Use  in 
Learning  the  Telegraph  Codes 

those  Studying  the  telegraph  codes  to 
give  good  results,  equal  to  any  of  the 
expensive  outfits  sold  for  this  purpose. 
— Contributed  by  Chas.  J.  La  Prille, 
Flushing,  N.  Y. 


A  Slight  Vacuum  is  Formed  by  the  Water   Flowing 
through  the  Cork,  Which  Forces  the  Filter 

at  the  faucet  and  draws  the  air  through 
the  side  tube  by  suction,  which  in  turn 
draws  the  air  in  a  steady  stream 
through  the  Wolfif  bottles.  The  tubes 
may  be  attached  to  a  filter  inserted  in  a 
filter  bottle  and  filtering  thus  greatly 
facilitated.  The  connection  to  the  fau- 
cet can  be  made,  as  shown  in  the  de- 
tailed sketch,  out  of  a  long  cork,  by 
boring  a  hole  large  enough  to  fit  the 
faucet  through  the  cork  and  another 
slanting  hole,  joining  the  central  hole, 
on  the  side  for  a  pipe  or  tube.  At  the 
lower  end  of  the  cork  a  tube  is  also  fit- 
ted, which  may  be  drawn  out  to  in- 
crease the  suction.  The  inclined  tube 
should  be  slightly  bent  at  the  lower 
end.— Contributed  by  W.  M.  Mills, 
Bakersfield,  Cal. 


119 


120 


Beginner's  Helper  for  Roller  Skating 

One  of  the  most  amusing  as  well  as 
useful  devices  for  a  beginner  on  roller 
skates  is   shown   in   the  sketch.     The 


Beginner  Cannot  Fall 

device  is  made  of  %-in.  pipe  and  pipe 
tittings,  with  a  strip  of  sheet  metal  1 
in.  wide  fastened  about  half  way  down 
on  the  legs.  On  the  bottom  of  each 
leg  is  fastened  an  ordinary  furniture 
caster  which  allows  the  machine  to 
roll  easily  on  the  floor.  The  rear  is 
left  open  to  allow  the  beginner  to  en- 
ter, then  by  grasping  the  top  rail  he  is 
able  to  move  about  on  the  floor  at 
ease,  without  fear  of  falling. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  H.  Harris,  Berkeley,  Cal. 


Each  end  of  the  vessel  is  provided  with 
an  opening,  A,  adapted  to  receive  and 
hold  in  place  plaster-of-paris  cups,  B. 
The  part  extending  into  the  tank  is  pro- 
vided with  a  wick,  C,  which  reaches  to 
the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  A  glass  tube, 
D,  is  provided  with  a  bulb  on  each  end 
and  partly  filled  with  alcohol,  the  re- 
maining space  being  exhausted  of  air. 
The  glass  tube  is  secured  to  a  hanger 
which  is  pivoted  to  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel. 

After  a  quantity  of  water  has  been 
poured  into  the  vessel  and  the  device 
allowed  to  stand  undisturbed  for  a  few 
minutes,  the  tube  will  begin  to  move 
with  an  oscillating  motion.  Some  of 
the  water  in  the  vessel  has  been  con- 
ducted by  means  of  the  wicks  C  to  the 
bent  plaster  cups,  from  the  surface  of 
which  it  evaporates,  thus  absorbing  la- 
tent heat  and  producing  a  lower  tem- 
perature in  the  cups  than  that  of  the 
surrounding  atmosphere.  The  bulb 
in  contact  with  the  cup  thus  acquires 
a  lower  temperature  than  the  one  at 
the  end  D,  which  will  result  in  conden- 
sation of  the  alcohol  vapor  within  the 
former.  The  pressure  of  the  vapor  in 
the  lower  bulb  will  then  force  the  alco- 
hol up  the  inclined  tube  into  the  higher 
bulb,  the  evaporation  in  the  lower 
bulb  maintaining  the  pressure  'herein. 
When  a  sufficient  quantity  of  alco- 


Atmospheric   Thermo-Engine 

The  device  illustrated  has  for  its  ob- 
ject the  production  of  power  in  small 
quantities  with  little  attention  and  no 
expense.  All  that  is  needed  to  produce 
the  power  is  common  ordinary  water, 
and  the  device  will  continue  to  operate 
until  the  amount  of  water  placed  in  the 
receptacle  has  evaporated. 

The  device  consists  of  a  rectangular 
vessel  provided  with  legs  and  a  cover. 


Details  of  the  Engine 

hol  has  been  forced  into  the  upper 
bulb,  it  will  descend,  and  thus  elevate 
the  other  bulb  into  its  cup.  The  phe- 
nomena just  described  will  be  repeated 
in    this   bulb    and    the    oscillation   f.will 


131 


continue  until  the  water  in  the  vessel 
has  been  absorbed  and  evaporated. — 
Contributed  by  E.  W.  Davis,  Chicago. 


A  Mirror  an  Aid  in  Rowing  a  Boat 

The  young  oarsman  is  apt  to  expe- 
rience difficulty  in  keeping  a  straight 
course  until  he  has  had  some  practice. 
Rowing  a  boat  in  a  narrow  channel 
calls  for  considerable  skill  to  hold  a 
course  in  mid-stieam.  A  variation  of 
force  in  pulling  the  oars  almost  in- 
stantly results  in  the  rowboat  making 
a  landfall  on  one  or  the  other  of  the 
banks. 

The  skilled  oarsman  does  not  need 
an  appliance  that  the  beginner  might 
welcome.     With   the  aid   of   a   mirror 


The  Mirror  Attached  to  a  Boat 

conveniently  supported  at  a  suitable 
angle  and  height  before  the  oarsman's 
face,  the  water,  the  shores  and  ap- 
proaching boats  may  be  seen  with  dis- 
tinctness. The  mirror  may  be  set  di- 
rectly in  front  or  a  little  distance  to 
one  side  as  shown  in  the  sketch. — Con- 
tributed by  Thaleon  Blake,  Sidney,  O. 


Developing  Tray  Made  of  a  Tin  Can 

Obtain  a  tomato  or  other  can,  5  or  6 
in.  long  and  4  in.  in  diameter,  which 
should  be  secured  before  it  has  been 
opened,  says  Camera  Craft.  Cut  both 
ends  exactly  half  way  around,  keeping 
close  to  the  edge,  as  shown  in  the  first 
sketch,  and  slit  it  lengthwise  to  open 
the  side.  Trim  off  the  end  pieces  to 
within  1  in.  of  the  center  and  cut  off 
the  surplus  tin  of  the  sides  of  the  can, 
leaving  enough  to  bend  over  and  form 


the  ends  of  the  tank  as  shown  in  the 
second  sketch. 

The   support,   as   shown  in   the   last 
sketch,  is  made  by  screwing  together 


For  Developing  Roll  Films 

three  pieces  of  wood,  the  base  piece  be- 
ing 61/2  in.  square  and  thick  enough  to 
make  the  tank  solid  and  heavy.  Bend 
the  sides  of  the  can  over  the  edges  of 
the  two  uprights  and  tack  them  firmly 
to  the  sides,  bending  the  tin  so  as  to 
have  a  rounded  surface  that  will  not 
scratch  the  films.  The  ends  of  the  can 
are  bent  over  sharply  to  form  the  sides 
of  the  tank.  Procure  a  round  wood 
stick,  the  length  of  the  tank,  place  in 
position,  and  fasten  with  a  screw 
through  the  tin  at  both  ends.  Give  the 
whole  tank  two  coats  of  black  as- 
phaltum  varnish  to  protect  it  from  the 
action  of  the  developer. 


White  Rubber  on  Croquet  Arches 

A  white  cloth  is  usually  tied  to  cro- 
quet arches  when  the  game  is  played 
late  in  the 
evening.  A 
much  better 
plan  is  to 
slip  a  piece 
of  white  rub- 
ber tubing 
about  1  ft. 
long  on  the 
arch.  This 
tubing  can  be 
purchased  at 
a  n  y  1  o  c  a  1 
drug    store. 

This  makes  the  top  part  of  the  arch 
conspicuoas  so  that  it  may  be  plainly 
seen  in  the  dark,  and,  when  the  tubing 
becomes  soiled  it  can  be  cleaned  off 
with  a  damp  cloth. — Contributed  by 
John  Blake,  Franklyn,  Mass. 


White 
Rcibber 


Arch 


122 


^S^ 


Illuminating  an  Outside  Thermometer 

During  the  season  of  furnace  fires 
the  thermometer  outside  the  north 
window  becomes  of  added  interest  and 
usefulness  in  helping  one  to  judge  the 
proper  draft  adjustments  of  the  fur- 
nace for  the 
night.  A  pocket 
electric  flash- 
lamp  is  conven- 
ient for  examin- 
ing the  ther- 
mometer after 
dark,  but  it  is  not 
always  at  hand, 
matches  are  dan- 
gerous when 
lace  curtains  are 
at  the  window, 
and  besides,  the  reflection  from  the 
glass  of  both  matches  and  flashlamp 
on  the  inside  makes  it  very  difficult 
to  read  the  thermometer. 

To  avoid  these  difficulties  I  attached 
to  my  thermometer  the  device  shown 
herewith,  which  consists  of  a  miniature 
battery  lamp  placed  at  the  back  of  the 
translucent-glass  thermometer  and  ope- 
rated by  a  battery  within  the  house, 
the  light  being  turned  on  by  an  ordi- 
nary push  button  placed  conveniently 
inside  of  the  window. 

A  strip  of  brass.  A,  %  i"-  wide  by  -jV 
in.  thick,  was  riveted  (soldering  will 
do)  to  the  lower  support  of  the  ther- 
mometer. The  free  end  of  this  brass 
strip  was  bent  around  a  disk  of  hard- 
wood, B,  and  fastened  to  it  by  three  or 
four  small  screws  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  disk  made  a  circular  platform 
just  behind  the  thermometer  scale. 
This  disk  was  slightly  larger  than  the 
mouth  of  a  small,  thin  tumbler.  On 
the  upper  surface  of  this  disk  was  fas- 
tened with  shellac  and  small  nails  close 
to  the  periphery,  a  disk  of  cork,  I/4  in. 
thick,  this  cork  disk  being  a  close  fit 
for  the  mouth  of  the  tumbler.  A 
miniature  porcelain  electric-lamp 
socket  was  fastened  with  screws 
on  the  cork  of  the  base.  Wires 
were  then  run  from  the  lamp 
socket  through  the  cork  and  wood 
disks    and    the    whole    painted    with 


melted  paraffin  to  close  all  apertures 
and  keep  out  moisture.  Good  rubber- 
covered  electric-light  wire  will  do 
nicely  for  the  wiring  outside  the  house, 
although,  if  it  can  be  obtained,  a  piece 
of  leacl-covered  paired  wire  is  prefer- 
able. These  wires  must  be  only  long 
enough  to  reach  inside  the  house, 
where  they  may  be  joined  to  the  ordi- 
nary sort  of  wire  used  in  electric-bell 
work  for  connecting  with  push  button 
and  battery. 

A  4-volt  lamp  of  about  2  cp.  will  be 
sufficient  to  illuminate  the  thermometer 
and  allow  the  scale  and  mercury  col- 
umn to  be  distinctly  seen.  It  may  be 
found  necessary  to  make  some  adjust- 
ment by  bending  the  brass  strip  in 
order  to  bring  the  lamp  centrally  be- 
hind the  scale  and  at  the  proper 
height  to  give  the  best  lighting  on  the 
range  of  from  10  to  40  deg.  Over  the 
lamp  is  placed  the  tuml)ler  for  protec- 
tion from  the  weather,  and,  if  desired, 
half  of  the  tumbler  may  be  painted  as 
a  reflector  on  the  inside  with  white 
enamel  paint,  although,  in  practice,  I 
have  not  found  this  necessary. 

Within  the  house  the  push  button 
should  be  placed  at  the  window  where 
it  can  be  most  conveniently  reached 
when  viewing  the  thermometer,  and 
connections  may  be  made  to  the  bat- 
tery regularly  used  for  ringing  the 
house  bells,  or  to  a  separate  battery  of, 
say,  4  dry  cells,  placed  in  some  loca- 
tion, as  a  closet,  near  the  thermometer. 
—Contributed  by  C.  F.  A.  Siedhof, 
Winchester,  Mass. 


How  to  Make  an  Automobile  Robe 

When  driving  an  automobile  in  cold 
weather,  it  is  impossible  to  have  a 
robe  come  down  over  the  feet  without 
being  in  the  way  so  that  it  is  incon- 
venient in  working  the  pedals.  Pro- 
cure a  common  heavy  robe  and  cut  two 
holes  in  it  about  .5  in.  from  the  bottom 
just  large  enough  for  the  toe  of  the 
shoes  to  slip  through  and  bind  the 
edges  with  cloth  or  fur.  The  5  in.  of 
robe  below  the  holes  should  come  back 
under  the  feet  so  that  no  wind  can  en- 
ter.    Make  the  holes  far  enough  apart 


123 


SO  that  both  outside  pedals  can  be 
reached  easily  and  3011  will  have  no 
trouble  with  your  feet.  This  robe, 
with  the  use  of  overshoes,  will  insure 
comfort  in  driving  a  car. — Contributed 
by  Earl  R.  Hastings,  Corinth,  Vt. 


Locating  a  Droplight  in  the  Dark 

It  is  very  hard  to  locate  an  electric- 
light  globe  in  a  dark  room.  Anyone 
trying  to  find  one  by  striking  the  air 
in  its  vicinity  with  one  hand,  usually 
finds  that  the  globe  is  not  there,  al- 
though the  hand  may  have  passed  with- 
in Vo  in.  of  the  globe. 

The  best  way  to  locate  a  globe  is  to 
approach  the  proximity  of  the  drop 
with  thumbs  touching  and  fingers  ex- 
tended as  shown  in  the  sketch,  in  whicli 
manner  the  hands  will  cover  a  radius 
of  about  14  in.  and  offer  a  better  chance 
of   locating   the   light   quickly   than    if 


Covering  a  Wide  Range 

one  groped  about  with  one  hand  ex- 
tended.— Contributed  by  Victor  Laba- 
die,  Dallas,  Tex. 


Lighting  a  Room  for  Making 
Photographs 

\Mien  it  becomes  too  cold  for  the 
amateur  photographer  to  take  pictures 
outdoors,  he  generally  lays  aside  his 
camera  and  thinks  no  more  about  it 
until  the  coming  of  another  spring  or 
summer.  While  some  winter  scenes 
would  make  up  an  interesting  part  of 
anyone's  collection,  it  is  not  always 
pleasant  to  go  out  to  take  them. 

Some  derive  pleasure  from  making 
groups  and  portraits,  but  this  is  very 
difficult,  if  the  room  is  not  well 
lighted.      Overhead    light    is    the    best 


for  this  work  and  few  residences  are 
constructed  to  furnish  this  kind  of 
light. 

I  find  a  very  good  way  to  get  a  light 


Light  Reflected  on  Ceiling 

overhead  is  to  take  a  large  mirror — one 
from  an  ordinary  dresser  will  do — and 
place  it  in  the  window  in  such  a  posi- 
tion that  the  reflection  will  strike  the 
ceiling  just  above  the  subject.  The  re- 
sult will  be  a  soft  but  very  strong  light, 
almost  equal  to  a  north  skylight. 
Splendid  portraits  can  be  made  in  this 
way. — Contributed  by  Chas.  Piper, 
Kokomo,  Ind. 


Detachable  Hinged  Cover  for   Kettles 

A  kettle  cover  equipped  with  the 
hinge  shown  in  Fig.  1  will  not  fall  off 
when  in  place,  and  can  be  raised  or  re- 
moved entirely  when  desired. 

One  wing  of  an  ordinary  hinge  is 
soldered  or  riveted  to  the  cover  and 
wire  clasps  soldered  to  the  other  wing. 


FiG.l  F1G.2 

Wire  Clasps  on  Hinge 

It  is  slipped  on  the  kettle  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2.  The  cover  is  interchange- 
able and  can  be  placed  on  almost  any 
kettle. 


124 


A  Use  for  Discarded  Wafer  Razor 
Blades 

A  paper  trimmer  and  mat  cutter  can 
be  made  from  a  wafer  razor  Ijlade.  As 
a  paper  trimmer,  place  the  blade  C  over 

the  part  A 
of  the  razor, 
as  shown, 
with  only 
two  of  the 
holes  engag- 
ing in  one 
post  and  the 
center 
screw.  Then 
place  the 
part  B  i  n 
position  and 
clamp  with  the  Irandle.  This  will  allow 
about  i/o  in.  of  the  blade  to  project  at 
one  end.  If  a  part  of  the  extending 
blade  is  cut  or  broken  off,  it  will  be 
more  easily  handled.  The  cutter  is 
guided  along  the  straightedge  as  shown 
in  Fig.   1. 

If  it  is  desired  tp  make  a  more  per- 
manent form  of  instrument,  or  if  no 
holder  is  at  hand  and  only  a  castofT 
wafer  blade,  a  handle,  C,  may  be  cut 
from  a  piece  of  wood  and  fitted  with 


Fig.  I 


^STRAIGHT  ED6E 

Fio.2 

Blade  Attached  to  Handle 


two  or  three  binding-posts.  A,  taken 
from  an  old  battery,  to  hold  the  blade 
B  in  place,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 


Armatures   for   Small   Motors 

Without  the  proper  tools  and  mate- 
rial, the  amateur  electrician  will  find 
it  quite  difificult  to  construct  a  small 
armature  for  a  battery  motor  that  will 
run  true,  without  vibration  and  have 
a  neat  appearance.     Ordinary  cast-iron 


gears  or  pinions,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1, 
make  excellent  cores  for  armatures  on 
small  motors.  A  gear  of  any  number 
of  teeth  can  be  used  for  an  armature 
with  a  smaller  numlier  of  coils  by  cut- 
ting out  a  certain  number  of  teeth. 
For  example,  a  gear  with  12  teeth  will 
take  12  coils,  but  if  every  other  tooth 
is  cvit  out,  it  will  take  only  6  coils,  etc. 
The  teeth  can  be  easily  chipped  out 
with   a   cold   chisel. 

Larger  armatures  can  be  made  from 
gears  with  spokes,  the  spokes  being 
cut  out,  if  a  ring  armature  is  desired. 
The  gear,  when  wound,  can  be  mounted 
on  a  hub  made  of  empty  thread  spools. 
The  spool  can  be  turned  at  one  end  to 
insert  it  in  the  armature,  and  if  too 
long,  one  end  will  serve  for  the  core  of 
the  commutator,  as   shown   in   Fig.  2. 


FiG.I 


Gear  Used  as  a  Core 


This  combination  will  make  a  neat, 
efficient  little  armature,  which  will  run 
quite  free  from  vibration.  Only  sim- 
ple tools,  such  as  a  hammer,  cold 
chisel,  file,  jackknife  and  a  vise,  are 
required. — Contributed  by  R.  J.  Nault, 
Hartford,  Conn. 


Ice  Creeper  for  Shoe  Heels 

Many  persons,  young  and  old,  have 
falls  every  winter  on  the  ice  or  snow 
which  can  be  avoided  if  their  shoes 
are  fitted  with  ice  creepers.  A  very 
efficient  device  of  this  kind,  which  any 
boy  can  make  at  home  in  a  short  time, 
is  shown  in  the  sketch.  These  ice 
creepers  need  not  be  removed  from 
the  shoes  or  boots  until  the  winter  is 
past,  for  they  may  be  worn  indoors 
without   injuring  the    finest   floor. 

The  two  plates  A  may  be  made 
from  either  iron  or  steel — preferably 
the  latter.  An  all-steel  scraper,  or  a 
piece    of    a    saw    blade,    makes    good 


135 


creepers.  Draw  the  temper  by  heat- 
ing the  steel  to  a  cherry  red  and  then 
letting  it  cool  slowly.  It  may  then 
be  sawn  with  a  hacksaw,  cut  with  a 
cold  chisel,  or  filed  into  plates  of  the 
proper  shape,  as  shown.  The  teeth  are 
filed  to  points.  The  two  L-shaped 
slots  are  made  by  drilling  i'u-in.  holes 
through  the  plates,  and  then  sawing, 
filing  or  chiseling  out  the  metal  be- 
tween the  holes.  The  projections  at 
the  ends  are  then  bent  out  at  right 
angles  with  heavy  pliers  or  the  claws 
of  a  hammer,  and  finally  the  plates 
bent  to  fit  the  curve  of  the  heel. 


Creeper  Attached  to  Heel 

The  creepers  are  attached  by  means 
of  round-head  wood  screws  turned 
into  the  leather.  In  this  operation 
place  the  teeth  of  the  plates  just  be- 
low the  bottom  of  the  heel  and  turn 
the  screws  into  the  ends  of  the  upright 
slots  until  the  heads  just  bind.  The 
plate  as  set  when  indoors  or  else  not 
needed  is  shown  at  B.  To  place  the 
plate  so  it  will  grip  the  ice,  slide  it  to 
the  right,  which  will  bring  the  screws 
into  the  horizontal  slots,  as  shown 
at  C. — Contributed  by  Chelsea  C. 
Fraser,  Saginaw,  Mich. 


Opening   Screw-Top   Fruit  Jars 

Screw-top  fruit  jars  may  be  easily 
opened  in  the  following  manner: 
Secure  a  strap 
with  a  buckle 
and  place  it 
around  the  top  as 
if  it  were  to  be 
buckled,  but  in- 
stead draw  the 
loose  end  back 
and  hold  it  with 
the  thumb  as 
shown.  Turn 
cover  and  strap 
while  held  in  this  position  and  it  will 
easily  turn  from  the  jar. — Contributed 
by  Chas.  A.  Bickert,  Clinton,  Iowa. 


Lamp-Chimney  Cleaner 

Lamp  chimneys  of  various  makes 
are  very  difficult  to  clean  quickly  and 
thoroughly.    The  simple  device  shown 


Rubber  Ball  on  Stick 

in  the  sketch  makes  the  cleaning  pro- 
cess a  simple  matter.  The  cleaner  is 
made  of  a  round  rubber  ball  with  slits 
cut  in  it  as  shown  and  then  fastened  to 
the  end  of  a  stick.  When  a  cloth  is 
placed  over  the  ball  it  presses  evenly 
against  the  curved  surfaces  of  the 
glass.  There  is  no  danger  of  breaking 
a  chimney  with  this  cleaner. 


A  Pop-Corn  Popper 

The  accompanying  sketch  shows  the 
construction  of  a  pop-corn  popper  for 
thoroughly  flavoring  the  corn  with  the 
hot  butter  or 
lard,  and  at  the 
same  time  mix- 
ing it  with 
the  necessar}' 
amount  of  salt. 
Procure  a  metal 
bucket  that  just 
fits  the  bottom 
of  the  frying 
pan.  The  stir- 
ring device  is 
made  of  heavy 
wire  bent  as  shown  and  provided  with 
an  empty  spool  for  a  handle.  A  brace 
is  made  of  tin  bent  in  the  shape  shown 
and  riveted  to  the  bottom  of  the 
bucket. — Contributed  by  F.  A.  Wirth, 
Farwell,  Texas. 


A  Homemade  Floor  Polisher 

An  efficient  and  cheap  floor  polisher 
may  be  readily  constructed  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  Make  a  box  about  4 
by  6  by  13  in.,  or  the  exact  size  may 
be  determined  by  building   it  around 


126 


t  le  household  flatirons  as  these  are 
used  to  give  weight  and  pressure. 
The  handle,  which  is  attached  as 
shown,  should  be  at  least  2iA  in.  wide 


Flatirons  in  the  Box 

at  the  hinged  end  and  should  be  sand- 
papered where  it  is  grasped  by  the 
hands.  A  half-strap  hinge  is  prefer- 
able, with  the  strap  part  fastened  to 
the  handle.  The  bottom  of  the  polisher 
is  covered  with  a  piece  of  Brussels 
carpet. 

In  use,  it  is  well  to  set  the  polisher 
on  a  soft  piece  of  cotton  or  flannel 
cloth,  which  may  be  readily  renewed 
when  badly  soiled. 

A  more  sightly  polisher  may  be 
made  by  filling  the  box  with  pieces  of 
old  iron  or  lead,  tightly  packed  with 
paper  to  prevent  rattling,  and  attach- 
ing a  cover  over  the  top.  The  handle 
may  be  hinged  directly  to  this  cover 
by  means  of  a  full-strap  hinge. — Con- 
tributed by  B.  O.  Longyear,  F"t.  Col- 
lins, Colo. 

Simple  Way  to  Mark  Poison  Bottles 

A  way  to  prevent  any  possi1)Ie  mis- 
take  of  taking  bottles  containing  poi- 
sons is  to  mark 
them  as  shown 
in    the     sketch. 
This     method 
provides  a  way 
■  to    designate   a 
■  i       poison  bottle  in 

'..,__.,..-- ^_,-'       the  dark. 

The  marker  is 
made  of  a  circle  of  heavy  cardboard 
with  a  hole  in  the  center  so  as  to  fit 
tightly  over  the  neck  of  the  bottle. 
No  matter  how  dark  it  may  be  or 
how  much  of  a  hurry  a  person  may 
be  in,  one  cannot  fail  to  note  the  char- 


acter of  the  contents  of  the  bottle  as 
soon  as  the  hand  touches  the  card- 
board marker. — Contributed  by  Kath- 
arine D.  Morse,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


Removing  Varnish 

A  good  and  easy  way  to  remove 
varnish  from  old  furniture  is  to  wash 
the  surface  thoroughly  with  9.1-per- 
cent alcohol.  This  dissolves  the  var- 
nish and  the  wood  can  then  be  cleaned 
with  a  strong  solution  of  soap,  or  weak 
lye.  If  lye  is  used,  it  should  be  washed 
off  quickly  and  the  wood  dried  with 
flannel  cloth.  When  the  wood  is 
thoroughly  dry  it  will  take  a  fine  finish. 
— Contributed  by  Loren  Ward,  Des 
Moines,  Iowa. 


Curling-Iron  Heater 

The  curling-iron  holder  shown  in  the 
sketch   can   be   made   of   metal    tubing 


IIIIHI'  '>>)1liU  \  nil  u  .11111111111111:  .illllill' 


v^Mi 


W 


la- 


Fi&.l 


Heater  on  Gas  Jet 

having  the  size  to  fit  both  iron  and  gas 
jet.  One-half  of  the  tubing  for  a  por- 
tion of  its  length  is  removed,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1.  The  remaining  part  is  bent 
as  in  Fig.  2  and  set  on  the  burner  of 
the  gas  jet. 

The  tube  prevents  the  curling  iron 
from  becoming  black  with  soot.  The 
position  on  the  jet  may  be  changed. 
The  tube  can  be  placed  on  the  jet  and 
removed  with  the  curling  iron. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  A.  Jaquythe,  Rich- 
mond, Cal. 


CA  whisk  broom  is  the  best  cleaner 
for  a  gas  stove.  It  will  clean  dirt 
from  nickel  parts  as  well  as  from  the 
burner,  grates,  ovens  and  sheet-metal 
bottoms. 


127 


Preserving   Flowers  in  Color  and   Form 


One  of  the  most  distressing  sides  of 
botanical  study  is  the  short  life  of  the 
colors  in  flowers.  Those  who  have 
found  the  usual  method  of  preserving 


a  cloth  in  a  thin  layer.  When  thor- 
oughly dry,  it  should  be  placed  in  a 
heavy  earthenware  vessel  and  further 
dried  in  a  hot  oven.     Allow  it  to  re- 


placing the  Flowers  on  the  Steel  Pins  and  Pouring  the  Dry  Sand  around  Them 


plants  by  pressure  between  paper  un- 
satisfactory will  be  interested  to  learn 
of  a  treatment  whereby  many  kinds  of 
flowers  maj'  be  dried  so  that  they  retain 
a  great  deal  of  their  natural  form  and 
color. 

The  flowers  should  be  gathered  as 
soon  as  the  blossoms  have  fully 
opened.  It  is  important  that  they 
should  be  quite  dry,  and  in  order  to 
free  them  of  drops  of  rain  or  dew,  they 
may  be  suspended  with  heads  down- 
ward for  a  few  hours  in  a  warm  place. 
It  is  well  to  begin  with  some  simple 
form  of  flower. 

A  large,  strongly  made  wooden  box 
— one  of  tin  is  better — will  be  neces- 
sary, together  with  a  sufficient  amount 
of  sand  to  fill  it.  If  possible,  the  sand 
should  be  of  the  kind  known  as  "silver 
sand,"  which  is  very  fine.  The  best 
that  can  be  procured  will  be  found  far 
from  clean,  and  it  must,  therefore,  be 
thoroughly  washed.  The  sand  should 
be  poured  into  a  bowl  of  clean  water. 
Much  of  the  dirt  will  float  on  the  sur- 
face. This  is  skimmed  off  and  thrown 
away,  and  clean  water  added.  The 
sand  should  be  washed  in  this  manner 
at  least  a  dozen  times,  or  until  nothing 
remains  but  pure  white  grains  of  sand. 
The  clean  sand  is  spread  out  to  dry  on 


main  in  the  oven  for  some  time  until 
it  is  completely  warmed  through  so 
that  one  can  scarcely  hold  the  bare 
hands  in  it. 

Obtain  a  piece  of  heavy  cardboard 
and  cut  it  to  fit  easily  in  the  bottom 
of  the  box.  Through  the  bottom  of 
the  cardboard  insert  a  number  of  steel 
pins,  one  for  each  of  the  flowers  to  be 
preserved.  Take  the  dry  blossoms  and 
press  the  stalk  of  each  on  a  steel  pin 
so  that  it  is  held  in  an  upright  position. 
When  the  cardboard  is  thus  filled, 
place  it  in  the  box. 

The  warm  sand  is  put  in  a  bag  or 
some  other  receptacle  from  which  it 
can  be  easily  poured.  Pour  the  sand 
into  the  box  gently,  allowing  it  to 
trickle    slowly    in    so    that    it    spreads 


The  Dried  Flowers 


128 


evenly.  Keep  on  pouring  sand  until 
the  heads  of  the  flowers  are  reached, 
taking  care  that  all  of  them  stand  in  a 
vertical  position.  The  utmost  care 
must  be  taken,  when  the  heads  are 
reached,  to  see  that  all  the  petals  are  in 
their  right  order.  Remember  that  any 
crumpled  flowers  will  be  pressed  into 
any  position  they  may  assume  by  the 
weight  of  the  sand.  When  the  box  is 
filled  it  should  be  covered  and  set 
aside  in  a  dry  place. 

The  box  should  be  allowed  to  stand 
at  least  48  hours.  After  the  first  day, 
if  only  a  small  amount  of  sand  has 
been  used,  the  material  may  have 
cooled  of?  to  some  extent,  and  the  box 
must  be  set  in  a  moderately  heated 
oven  for  a  short  time,  but  no  great 
amount  of  warmth  is  advisable.  Af- 
ter 48  hours  the  box  may  be  uncovered 
and  the  sand  carefully  poured  off.  As 
the  flowers  are  now  in  a  very  brittle 
condition,  any  rough  handling  will 
cause  serious  damage.     When  all  the 


sand  has  been  emptied,  the  cardboard 
should  be  removed  from  the  box  and 
each  blossom  taken  from  its  pin.  In 
the  case  of  succulent  specimens,  the 
stems  v^'ill  have  shrunk  considerably, 
but  the  thinner  petals  will  be  in  an  al- 
most natural  condition.  The  colors 
will  be  bright  and  attractive.  Some 
tints  will  have  kept  better  than  others, 
but  most  of  the  results  will  be  surpris- 
ingly good.  Whatever  state  the  flow- 
ers are  in  when  they  are  taken  from 
the  box,  if  the  drying  process  has  been 
thorough,  they  will  keep  almost  indefi- 
nitely. 

Flowers  preserved  in  this  manner 
are  admirable  for  the  decoration  of 
homes.  If  they  are  exposed  to  light, 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  di- 
rect sunshine  does  not  strike  them,  as 
it  will  fade  the  colors.  Sprigs  with 
leaves  attached  may  be  dried  in  this 
way,  but  it  has  been  found  that  much 
of  the  intensity  of  the  green  is  lost  in 
the  process. 


Reading  Pulse  Beats  with  the  Sun's 
Rays 

The  pulse  beats  may  be  counted  by 
this  unusual  method.  On  a  clear  day, 
when  the  sun  is  shining  brightly. 
darken  a  room  and  select  one  window 


Sun's  Rays  Deflected  to  the  Ceiling 

toward  the  sunlight,  which  should  be 
prepared  as  follows :  Draw  the  curtain 


part  way  down  and  cover  the  rest  of 
the  window  with  a  heavy  cardboard. 
Cut  a  small  hole  in  the  cardboard  to 
admit  a  beam  of  light.  Set  a  bowl  of 
water  on  a  table  in  the  path  of  the 
beam  so  as  to  deflect  it  to  the  ceiling 
as  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in  the 
sketch. 

It  is  now  a  simple  matter  to  show 
the  pulse  beats.  Place  the  wrist 
against  the  edge  of  the  bowl  as  shown, 
and  the  beam  of  light  directed  to  the 
ceiling  will  record  every  beat  of  the 
pulse  by  short,  abrupt  movements. 


Artistic  Wood  Turning 

Some  very  odd  and  beautiful  effects 
can  be  obtained  in  lathe  work  by  mak- 
ing up  the  stock  from  several  pieces  of 
various  kinds  of  wood  glued  together. 
The  pieces  can  be  arranged  in  many 
pleasing  combinations,  and  if  good 
joints  are  made  and  a  good  quality  of 
glue  used,  the  built-up  stock  is  just  as 
durable  as  a  solid  piece. 

Candlesticks    turned    from    built-up 


139 


Stock  are  especially  attractive,  parts  of 
the  various  light  and  dark  woods  ap- 
pearing here  and  there  in  all  manner  of 
odd  shapes  and  proportions.  If  the 
stock  is  placed  ofif  center  in  the  lathe, 
a  still  greater  variety  of  effects  will 
be  produced. 

The  application  of  a  potassium-bi- 
chromate solution  to  the  finished  work 
turns  each  piece  a  different  color.  This 
solution  can  be  made  in  any  depth  of 
color  by  varying  the  amounts  of  potas- 
sium salt  and  water.  Alaple  or  birch 
treated  with  this  solution  are  colored 
to  a  rich  Osage  orange  which  cannot 
be  surpassed  in  beauty.  Mahogany  is 
turned  a  deep  reddish  brown,  and  wal- 
nut is  darkened  a  great  deal.  The  so- 
lution is  applied  as  evenly  as  possible 
with  a  camel's-hair  brush  while  the 
wood  is  turning  in  the  lathe.  The  grain 
of   the   wood   is   somewhat   roughened 


n  MAPLE  OR 

BIRCH 
H   MAHOGANY 

^  WALNUT 


Vase  Made  of  Different  Woods 

by  this  process,  but  it  can  be  dressed 
down  again  with  very  fine  sandpaper. 
In  polishing  the  work,  only  the  best 
shellac  should  be  used,  and  several 
thin  coats  applied  rather  than  one  or 
two  heavy  ones.  Each  coat,  with  the 
exception  of  the  last,  should  be  sand- 
papered slightly.  Powdered  pumice 
stone  on  a  cloth  held  in  the  palm  of 
the  hand  can  be  used  to  apply  a  beauti- 
ful luster.  Some  suggestions  as  to  the 
manner  of  combining  various  woods, 
and  a  simple  candlestick  of  mahogany 
and  maple  are  shown  in  the  sketch. — 
Contributed  by  Olaf  Tronnes,  Wil- 
mette.  111. 


A  Variable  Condenser 
A  simple  variable  condenser  for  re- 
ceiving in  wireless,  which  will  give 
good  results,  was  made  by  a  corre- 
spondent of  Modern  Electrics  as  fol- 
lows: Each  clip  on  the  switch  was 
made  of  ribbon  brass  or  copper  in  the 


shape  shown  at  A,  the  first  one  from 
the  joint  of  the  knife  switch  being 
the  longest  and  each  succeeding  one 
shorter.  The  handle  was  taken  from 
a   single-pole   switch.     The   case   was 


CONDtNSER 

Lever  and  Clips 

made  of  oak  and  varnished  and  the 
condenser  was  made  of  tinfoil  and  thin 
sheets  of  mica,  2  by  3  in.  in  size.  After 
placing  the  condenser  in  the  case,  hot 
paraffin  was  poured  around  it. 


Adjustable  Baking-Pan  Shoes 

At  times  bread,  meat,  or  other  food, 
placed  in  ordinary  baking  pans  in  the 
oven  becomes  burned  on  the  bottom. 
If  the  detachable  metal  strips  shown  in 
the  sketch  are  placed  on  the  pan,  this 
will  not  happen,  as  the  pan  does  not 
come  in  direct  contact  with  the  oven 
floor. 

The  attachment  can  be  placed  on 
agate  ware  or  sheet-iron  pans  of  any 
length.  The  shoes  are  made  from  light 


Shoe  and  How  It  is  Attached  to  the  Pan 

V-shaped  metal  strips  and  in  two  parts, 
as  shown,  with  the  edges  of  one  part 
lapped  over  so  that  the  other  strip  will 
slide  in  it. 


130 


Cars  Lined  Up  Ready  for  the  Start  and  the  Course  Patrolled  by  the  Boy  Scouts,  All  Traffic  being  Halted 
{or  the  Race  and  the  Roadway  Made  Clear  for  the  Entire  Half  Mile  of  Track 

A   Pushmobile   Race 


Pending  the  time  set  for  a  500-mile 
international  automobile  race  that  was 
scheduled  to  take  place  several  weeks 
later,  a  number  of  boys  in  the  sixth  and 
seventh  grades  of  a  public  school  were 
enthusiastic  over  the  idea  of  building 


for  themselves,  in 
the  school  shops, 
pushmobiles  and 
having  a  race 
meet  similar  to 
the  large  one  ad- 
vertised. 

The  pushmobiles  were  made  and  the 
race  run  as  an  opening  feature  of  a 
field  meet  held  in  the  city.  The  course 
was  about  a  half  mile  long,  and  was 
chosen  to  give  the  contestants  plenty 
of  curves,  a  part  of  the  run  being  over 
brick  streets  and  the  final  quarter  on 
the  regular  track  where  the  field  meet 
was  held. 

Interest  was  added  to  the  event  by 
petitioning  the  mayor  of  the  city  for 
a  permit  to  run  the  race,  and  the  Boy 


Scouts  patrolled  the  route,  while  the 
city  policemen  cleared  the  streets,  and 
during  the  race  all  traffic  was  halted. 

Two  of  the  requirements  for  enter- 
ing the  race  were  that  the  car  had  to  be 
made  in  the  school  shops  and  that  it 
must  have  a  certain  kind  of  a  wheel, 
which  in  this  case  was  one  condemned 
by  a  local  factory,  thus  making  the 
wheels  and  wheel  base  of  all  cars  alike. 
Two  boys  to  a  car  constituted  a  rac- 
ing team,  and  during  the  race  they 
could  exchange  positions  at  their  pleas- 
ure. The  necessity  of  "nursing"  their 
cars  down  the  steep  grades  and  around 
difficult  corners  developed  into  an  im- 
portant factor.  All  cars  were 
named  and  numbered. 

The  car  that  finished  first  was 
disqualified  for  the 
reason  that  it  took 
on  a  fresh  pusher 
along    the    course. 


The  Cars  Winning  the  First.  Second  and  Third  Prizes 

Respectively,  the    "Hoosier"  being    Penalized 

10  Yards  at  the  Starting  Tape  for  Having 

Larger  and  Better-Grade  Wheels 


131 


The  cars  were  constructed  under  the 
supervision  of  the  regular  shop  in- 
structor, and  a  drawing  was  furnished 
each  boy  making  a  car.  The  design  of 
the  hood  and  the  arrangement  of  the 
seat  and  steering  gear  was  left  for  each 
boy  to  settle  as  he  desired.  The  matter 
of  expense  was  watched  closely  by 
each  one.  Most  of  the  hoods  and 
seats  were  constructed  of  empty  dry- 
goods  boxes. 

With  the  aid  of  the  sket 
can  make  a  car  as  stron 
"Peugeot"  that   won   th 
The   side   rails   of  the  m 
frame   were  made   of  cy- 
press, 58   in.  long 
and       2 
square. 

The  Entire  Chassis  was 


Two  pieces  of  ^/{j-in.  soft-steel  rod 
were  used  for  the  axles,  a  hole  being 
drilled  near  each  end  for  a  cotter,  to 
hold  the  wheels  in  place,  and  also  holes 
through  the  diameter  between  the 
wheels,  for  iV^-in.  screws  to  fasten  the 
axles  to  the  bolsters. 

The  steering  wheel  is  constructed  of 
a  broom  handle  with  a  small  wheel 
fastened  to  its  upper  end,  and  the  lower 
end  supported  by  a  crossbar, 
F.  and  the  back  end  of  the 
hootl.  Before  fastening 
the  crossbar  F 
in  place,  adjust 
the     steering 


the  Hoods 
and  Seats 
Being  the  Only 
Parts  Optional 
in  Size  and  Shape 
for  the  Builder 

The  location  of  the  crossbars  A  and  B 
is  very  important,  as  they  give  rigidity 
to  the  frame  and  reinforce  the  two 
bolsters  C  and  D.  The  size  of  the 
hood  and  the  location  of  the  seat  de- 
termine where  they  should  be  set  into 
the  rail,  after  which  they  are  fastened 
with  large  wood  screws.  The  three 
bolsters  C,  D,  and  E  are  cut  from  reg- 
ular 2  by  4-in.  stock.  Be  careful  to 
get  a  uniform  distance  between  the 
rails  when  they  are  framed  together. 
If  desired,  the  dimensions  can  be  in- 
creased, but  do  not  reduce  them,  as 
this  will  narrow  the  tread  too  much. 
The  bolt  connecting  the  bolsters  C  and 
E  is  a  common  carriage  bolt,  5  in.  long 
and  1/2  in-  in  diameter.  A  washer  is 
placed  between  the  pieces  C  and  E,  to 
make  the  turning  easy. 


to  the 
eight  for 
n  it  is 
fastened  with  nails  dri\en 
through  the  sides  of  the  hood. 
The  construction  of  the  steering 
device  is  very  simple.  The  crossarm 
G  is  a  piece  of  timber,  7  in.  long,  2  in. 
wide  and  1  in.  thick,  rounded  on  the 
ends  and  provided  with  a  large  screw 
eye  near  each  end  on  the  under  side  to 
which  are  fastened  the  ends  of  two 
small-linked  chains.  The  chains  are 
then  crossed  and  fastened  to  the  bot- 
tom bolster  in  front  and  as  near  the 
wheels  as  practical.  The  connection  is 
made  with  a  screw  eye  similar  to  the 
one  used  in  the  crossarm.  Another 
type  of  steering  device  may  be  made 
by  building  on  the  rod  a  5-in.  drum 
which  takes  the  place  of  the  steering 
arm.  It  is  a  more  positive  appliance, 
but  is  somewhat  harder  to  make  and 
adjust. 

The  making  of  the  hood  and  the  seat 
completes  the  car.  Decide  upon  the 
shape  and  size  of  the  hood,  but,  in  any 
case  and  irrespective  of  the  size,  it  will 
require  a  front  and  back  end.  These 
are  made  first  and  then  secured  at  the 


iS'2 


proper  distance  apart  with  two  side 
rails.  These  two  ends  are  nailed  on  the 
ends  of  the  connecting  rails.  It  is  then 
well  to  fasten  the  hood  skeleton  to  the 
car  frame  and  cover  it  after  the  steer- 
ing device  is  in  place. 

The   seat   bottom   is   cut   the   shape 
desired,  and  fastened  to  the  rear  bolster 


and  crosspiece,  first  placing  a  piece  of 
the  proper  thickness  under  the  front 
edge,  to  give  it  the  desired  slant  back- 
ward. The  back  curved  part  can  be 
formed  of  a  piece  of  sheet  metal  and 
lined  on  the  inside  with  wood  pieces, 
or  with  cloth  or  leather,  padded  to  re- 
semble the  regular  cushion. 


Pencil  Rack 

The  simple  pencil  rack  shown  in  the 
sketch  can  be  easily  made  from  any 
suitable     strip     of     metal,     preferably 

I  1 


o  ' 

1 

1 

i 

L   . 

i             o 

-==^ 

-^n) 

7 

^=^1 

'-==^ 

A  Strip  of  Sheet  Metal  Cut  and  Clips  Formed 
to  Make  a  Pencil  Rack 

brass  of  about  No.  15  gauge.  Mark  off 
a  number  of  rectangles  corresponding 
to  the  number  of  pencil  holders 
desired.  With  a  sharp  chisel,  cut 
through  the  metal  on  three  sides  of 
each  rectangle,  leaving  one  of  the 
short  sides  untouched.  The  loose  laps 
can  then  be  bent  to  a  shape  suited  to 
hold  a  pencil.  The  rack  can  be 
fastened  in  place  with  nails  or  screws 
through  holes  pierced  at  each  end. 
— Contributed  by  Mark  Gluckman, 
Jersey  City,  N.  J. 


CIndistinct  but  not  entirely  worn-off 
dates  on  coins  may  be  read  by  heating 
slightly. 


Reducing  Size  of  a  Hat  Sweatband 

Very  often  a  hat  has  been  worn  for 
some  time  and  it  becomes  too  loose  on 
the  head,  then  paper  is  used  in  the 
sweatband  to  reduce  the  size.  A  bet- 
ter, easier,  and  neater  method,  as  well 
as  one  that  will  be  cooler  for  the  head, 
is  to  insert  a  flat  lamp  wick  inside  of 
the  sweatband.  Wicks  of  all  thick- 
nesses and  widths  are  easily  obtained. 
— Contributed  by  Maurice  Bandier, 
New  Orleans,  La. 


A  Catapult 

The  catapult  shown  in  the  sketch 
is  one  I  constructed  some  time  ago  and 
found  to  be  amusing  and  very  inex- 
pensive. The  catapult  consists  of  a 
small  piece  of  dowel  or  pine,  whittled 
into  the  shape  of  a  handle,  a  screw- 
eye,  an  elastic  band  and  an  arrow.  It 
is  surprising  how  a  well-balanced  ar- 
row will  fly  into  the  sky  until  lost  to 
sight  when  propelled  through  the  eye 
of  the  screw  with  a  medium-strong 
elastic.      A    number  of   forms   of   this 


The  Eye  of  the  Screw  Serves  as  a  Guide  for 
the  Arrow 

simple  gun  were  made,  but  the  one 
shown  is  the  simplest  and  most  ef- 
fective.— Contributed  by  C.  A.  Need- 
ham,  New  York,  N.  Y. 


133 


Growing    Clean    Strawberries 

A  very  good  method  of  growing  in- 
dividual strawberry  plants  that  will 
produce  large  clean  berries  is  to  pro- 
vide a  covering  constructed  from  a 
board  10  in.  square  with  a  3-in.  hole 
bored  in  the  center.  This  covering 
is  placed  over  the  plant,  as  shown  in 
the  sketch,  to  keep  down  weeds,  retain 
moisture,  and  to  make  a  base  for  the 
ripening  berries.  A  shower  cannot 
spatter  dirt  and  sand  on  the  growing 
fruit.  The  rays  of  the  sun  beating 
on  the  surface  of  the  board  will  aid  in 
the  ripening. 

If  a  log  can  be  obtained,  the  boards 
can  be  made  better  and  more  quickly. 
Disks  about  1  in.  thick  are  sawed  from 
the  log  and  holes  in  their  centers  either 
cut  with  a  chisel  or  bored,  as  desired. 


Growing  Strawberries  on  the  Surface  of  a  Board 
Where  They  will  Ripen  Fast  and  Keep  Clean 

The  grain  of  the  wood  will  be  vertical 
and  no  warping  will  take  place — Con- 
tributed by  Johnny  Banholster,  Gres- 
ham,  Oregon 


A  Magic  Change  Card 

Procure  two  cards,  the  "5"  of  dia- 
monds and  the  "5"  of  spades,  for  ex- 
ample. Bend  each  exactly  in  the  cen- 
ter, with  the  face  of  the  cards  in,  and 
then  paste  any  card  on  the  back,  with 
its  face  against  the  two  ends  of  the 
bent  cards.  The  two  opposite  ends 
will  then  have  their  backs  together, 
and  these  are  also  pasted.  The  illus- 
tration clearly  shows  this  arrangement. 

To  perform  the  trick  pick  up  this 
card,  which  is  placed  in  the  pack  be- 
forehand,   and    show   to   the   audience 


both  the  front  and  back  of  the  card, 
being  sure  to  keep  the  center  part  flat 
against  one  end  or  the  other,  then 
pass   the   hand   over  the   card,  and   in 


A  Card  Having 
Two  Faces,  Either 

of  Which  can  be 

Shown  to  the 

Audience  Instantly 


doing  so  catch  the  center  part  and 
turn  it  over.  The  card  can  be  changed 
back  again  in  the  same  manner. — Con- 
tributed by  R.  Bennett,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 


Cleaning  Pearl  Articles 

A  good  way  to  clean  pearl  articles  or 
ornaments  is  to  moisten  them  with 
alcohol  and  then  dry  in  magnesia  pow- 
der or  French  chalk.  These  last  two 
articles  may  be  purchased  at  any  drug 
store  and  the  process  of  cleaning  is 
absolutely  harmless.  It  also  polishes 
the  pearl  and  will  not  bleach  delicate 
colors. 


Bed  for  a  Camp 

A  quickly  made  bed  for  a  camp  is 
shown  in  the  illustration.  The  corner 
posts  consist  of  four  forked  stakes 
driven  in  the  earth  so  that  the  crotches 
are   on   a   level   and   about   1   ft.   from 


w 


Canvas  Bed  Made  on  Two  Poles  Laid  in  the 
Crotches  of  Forked  Stakes 


the    ground, 
crotches,   len; 
canvas 


Poles    are    laid    in    the 
jthwise   of  the   bed,   and 
double-lapped    over 


134 


them.  If  desired,  the  canvas  can  be 
stitched  along  the  inside  of  the  poles. 
— Contributed  by  Thomas  Simpson, 
Pawtucket,  R.  I. 


Sail  for  a  Boy's  Wagon 

Every  boy.  who  loves  a  boat  and  has 
only  a  wagon,  can  make  a  combination 
affair  in  which  he  can  sail  even  though 


The  Sail  Wagon  will  Travel  at  a  Good  Speed 
in  a  Stiff  Breeze 

there  is  no  water  for  miles  around. 
One  boy  accomplished  this  as  shown 
in  the  illustration,  and  the  only  assist- 
ance he  had  was  in  making  the  sails. 

The  box  of  the  wagon  is  removed 
and  the  boat  deck  bolted  in  its  place. 
The  deck  is  14  in.  wide  and  5  ft.  long. 
The  mast  consists  of  an  old  rake  han- 
dle, 6  ft.  long ;  the  boom  and  gaff  are 
broomsticks,  and  the  tiller  is  connected 
with  wire  to  the  front  axle,  which  gives 
perfect  control  of  the  steering.  The 
sails  are  made  of  drilling. 

On  a  brick  pavement  the  sail  wagon 
can  draw  two  other  wagons  with  two 
boys  in  each,  making  in  all  five  boys. 
Of  course  a  good  wind  must  be  blow- 
ing. With  two  boys  it  has  made  a 
mile  in  five  minutes  on  pavement. — 
Contributed  by  Arthur  Carruthers, 
Oberlin,  Ohio. 


Extracting  a  Broken  Screw 

A  screw  will  often  break  off  in  a 
piece  of  work  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
is  quite  impossible  to  remo\'e  it  by 
using  a  pair  of  pliers  or  a  wrench.    In 


this  case  the  following  method  is  very 
efficient  and  expedient. 

Drill  a  small  hole  in  the  screw  as 
near  the  center  as  possible.  Roughen 
the  edges  on  the  tang  of  a  file  with  a 
cold  chisel,  and  drive  the  tang  into  the 
hole  with  a  mallet.  The  roughened 
edges  of  the  tang  exert  enough  friction 
on  the  metal  to  remove  the  screw  by 
turning  the  file  in  the  proper  direction. 


Keeping  Out  Dampness 

A  good  way  to  keep  a  bed  from  be- 
coming damp,  if  left  for  any  length  of 
time,  is  to  place  a  blanket  on  the  top 
after  it  is  made  up.  Take  the  blanket 
oflf  before  using  and  the  bed  covers  will 
be  quite  dry,  as  the  blanket  absorbs 
the  moisture. — Contributed  by  G.  Nor- 
dvke.   Lexington,  Ore. 


A    Double-Claw   Hammer  for  Pulling 
Nails  Straight 

A  nail  pulled  with  an  ordinary  claw 
hammer  will  be  bent  in  the  operation, 
and  for  this  reason  the  double  claw 
is  used  to  draw  the  nail  straight  out 
of  the  wood.  An  ordinary  claw  ham- 
mer can  be  easily  converted  into  a 
double-claw  by  filing  out  one  of  the 
claws  as  shown.  The  notch  is  filed 
only  large  enough  to  slip  under  the 
head  of  an  average-size  nail.  After 
drawing  the  nail  a  short  distance  in  the 


The  Small  Notch  on  the 
End  of  the  Claw  Mikes 
It  Easy  to  Pull  a  Nail 
Straight 


usual  manner  the  small  notch  is  set 
under  the  head  of  the  nail  which  is  then 
pulled  out  straight. — Contributed  by  J. 
V.  Loefifer,  Evansville,  Ind. 


13o 


A    Cyclemobile 

By  FRANK  PFEFFERLE 


The  cyclemobile  is  of  the  three- 
wheeled  type  and  can  be  easily  con- 
structed in  the  home  workshop  with 
ordinary  tools.  The  main  frame  is 
built  up  of  two  sidepieces,  AA,  Fig. 
1,  each  2  in.  thick,  4  in.  wide,  and  7 
ft.  long,  joined  together  at  the  front 
end  with  a  crosspiece,  B.  of  the  same 
material.  17  in.  long.  The  sides  are 
placed  slightly  tapering  so  that  the 
rear  ends  are  1]  in.  apart  at  the  point 
where  they  are  joined  together  with 
the  blocks  and  rear-wheel  attachments. 
A  crosspiece,  C,  13  in.  long,  is  fastened 
in  the  center  of  the  frame. 

The  place  for  the  seat  is  cut  out  of 
each  sidepiece,  as  shown  by  the 
notches  at  D,  which  are  2  ft.  from  the 
rear  ends.    Two  strips  of  wood,  E,  ^o 


in.  thick,  4  in.  wide,  and  22  in.  long, 
are  fastened  with  nails  to  the  rear  ends 
of  the  sides,  as  shown.    The  rear  wheel 


Detail  of  the  Parts  for   Constructing  an  Automobile- 
Type  Foot-Power  Car 


Three-Wheeled  Cyclemobile  Propelled  Like  a  Bicycle 
and  Steered  as  an  Automobile 

is  a  bicycle  wheel,  which  can  be  taken 
from  an  old  bicycle,  or  a  wheel  may 
be  purchased  cheaply  at  a  bicycle  store. 
It  is  held  in  place  with  two  pieces  of 
strap  iron,  F,  shaped  similar  to  the 
rear  forks  on  a  bicycle,  and  each  piece 
is  bolted  to  a  block  of  wood  3  in.  thick, 
4  in.  wide,  and  6  in.  long,  which  is 
fastened  to  the  sidepiece  with  the  same 
bolts  that  hold  the  strap  iron  in  ])lace. 
The  blocks  are  located  20  in.  from  the 
rear  ends  of  the  sidepieces. 

The  pedal  arrangement.  Fig.  3,  con- 
sists of  an  ordinary  bicycle  hanger, 
with  cranks  and  sprocket  wheel  set 
into  the  end  of  a  piece  of  wood,  3  in. 
thick,  4  in.  wide  and  33  in.  long,  at 
a  point  4  in.  from  one  end.  The  pieces 
GG  are  nailed  on  across  the  frame  at 
ihe  front  end  of  the  car,  to  hold  the 
hanger  piece  in  the  center  between  the 
sidepieces,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  A 
small  pulley,  H,  is  made  to  run  loosely 
on  a  shaft  fastened  between  the  side- 
pieces.  This  is  used  as  an  idler  to  keep 
the  upper  part  of  the  chain  below  the 
seat. 


136 


The  front  axle  is  30  in.  long,  pivoted 
as  shown  at  J,  Fig.  3,  6  in.  from  the 
front  end  of  the  main  frame.  Two 
small  brass  plates,  KK,  are  fastened 
with  screws  on  the  under  edge  of  each 
sidepiece,  as  shown,  to  provide  a  bear- 
ing for  the  axle.  The  front  wheels  are 
taken  from  a  discarded  baby  carriage 
and  are  about  21  in.  in  diameter. 

A  good  imitation  radiator  can  be 
made  by  cutting  a  board  to  the  dimen- 
sions given  in  Fig.  4.  A  large-mesh 
screen  is  fastened  to  the  rear  side  to 
imitate  the  water  cells. 

The  steering  gear  L,  Fig.  5,  is  made 
of  a  broom  handle,  one  end  of  which 
passes  through  the  support  M  and  fits 
into  a  hole  bored  into  the  lower  part 
of    the    imitation    radiator    board.      A 


steering  wheel,  N,  is  attached  to  the 
upper  end  of  the  broom  handle.  The 
center  part  of  a  rope,  O,  is  given  a 
few  turns  around  the  broom  handle, 
and  the  ends  are  passed  through  the 
openings  in  screweyes,  PP,  turned  in- 
to the  inner  surfaces  of  the  sidepieces 
AA,  and  tied  to  the  front  axle. 

The  seat  is  constructed  of  i/2-in.  lum- 
ber and  is  built  in  the  notches  cut  in 
the  main  frame  shown  at  D,  Fig.  1. 
The  body  frame  is  made  of  lath,  or 
other  thin  strips  of  wood,  that  can  be 
bent  in  the  shape  of  the  radiator  and 
nailed  to  the  sidepieces,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  G.  These  are  braced  at  the  top 
with  a  longitudinal  strip.  The  frame 
is  then  covered  with  canvas  and 
painted  as  desired. 


How  to  Make  a  Humidor 

The  humidor  is  an  ideal  gift  for  any 
person  who  smokes.  The  wood  for 
making  one,  as  shown  in  the  illustra- 


The  Amount  of  Moisture  within  tlie  Box  i^  Shown 
on  the  Dial  in  tne  Cover 

tion,  may  be  of  Spanish  cedar,  mahog- 
any, or  quartered  oak,  as  the  builder 
desires.  The  box  and  cover  are  made 
and  glued  together  in  one  piece,  then 
the  cover  is  sawed  off  to  insure  a  per- 
fect fit.  A  strong  corner  connection  is 
shown  at  A.  A  piece  of  a  strawberry 
box  or  peach  basket  makes  a  good  key 
to  glue  in  the  grooves.  Care  must  be 
taken  to  run  the  grain  with  the  width 
and  not  with  the  length  of  the  strip. 

Finish  the  outside  of  the  box  with 
two  coats  of  the  desired  stain,  then 
cover  with  a  coat  of  wax,  shellac,  or 
varnish.  The  inside  should  be  finished 
with  one  coat  of  white  lead  and  two  or 


three  coats  of  white  enamel,  to  make 
the  wood   impervious  to   moisture. 

In  the  center  of  the  cover  top  is  set 
a  piece  of  glass  and  to  the  under  side 
of  the  latter  a  hygrometer  is  attached 
with  a  little  glue.  This  instrument 
tells  the  relative  humidity,  or  the 
amount  of  moisture,  in  the  air  within. 
The  moisture  may  be  regulated  by  add- 
ing a  few  drops  of  water,  as  needed,  to 
a  piece  of  ordinary  blotting  paper 
placed  on  the  inside. — Contributed  by 
James  T.  Gaffney,  Chicago. 


Telephoto   Attachment   for   a   Hand 
Camera 

It  is  not  necessary  to  purchase  an 
expensive  telephoto  lens  for  a  box  or 
hand  camera  if  the  owner  has  a  pair  of 


A  Field  Glass  Placed  in  Front  of  a  Camera  Lens 
will  Increase  the  Diameter  of  the  Photograph 

opera  or  field  glasses.     First  focus  the 
glasses    on    the    distant    object    to    be 


13'! 


photographed  and  then  set  the  camera. 
One  of  the  glasses  is  placed  directly 
in  line  with  and  in  front  of  the  camera 
lens,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  If  the 
camera  is  of  the  focusing  type,  it  is 
focused  in  the  ordinary  manner.  Box 
and  other  cameras  are  set  as  usual. 

The  glasses  should  be  well  supported 
in  front  of  the  camera  lens,  as  any 
slight  move  will  be  quite  perceptible 
on  the  ground  glass.  As  the  light  rays 
are  largely  reduced  in  passing  through 
the  field  glass  and  camera  lens,  it  is 
necessary  to  give  a  much  longer  ex- 
posure. This  can  only  be  determined 
by  trying  it  out,  as  lenses  have  ditTer- 
ent  speeds. — Contributed  by  Charles 
Leonard,  St.  John,  Can. 


and  central  roof  of  the  structure.  If 
wood  is  used  for  the  rod,  it  should 
be  about  1  in.  in  diameter  and  of  hard 


A  Turn  Feeding  Table  for  Birds 

Never  in  the  past  has  the  public  at 
large  taken  so  great  an  interest  in  pro- 
tecting and  furthering  the  well-being 
of  birds  as  at  present.  In  addition  to 
protective  legislation,  clubs  every- 
where are  organizing  to  promote  bird 
life  and  many  citizens,  old  and  young, 
are  making  bird  houses  and  feeding 
tables. 

One  of  the  best  forms  of  feeding 
tables  which  I  have  ever  seen  is  shown 
in  the  sketch.  It  possesses  a  great 
advantage  over  the  average  table  in 
being  turned  automatically,  whirling 
about  by  the  action  of  the  winds  and 
always  keeping  its  open  front  on  the 
lee  or  protected  quarter.  This  is  a 
good  feature  especially  in  the  fall  and 
winter,  the  very  time  when  birds  need 
and  seek  protection  from  storms  and 
cold  winds. 

To  make  such  a  feed  table  almost 
any  kind  of  boards  can  be  utilized. 
The  shelter  may  be  of  any  shape  or 
size  to  suit  the  tastes  of  the  maker, 
but  one  constructed  to  the  dimensions 
given  will  be  found  to  work  well  in 
most  localities.  Along  the  center  of 
the  roof  is  attached  a  wing,  A,  which 
is  an  active  aid  in  causing  the  wind 
to  keep  the  open  front  turned  away. 
The  shelter  turns  upon  a  wood  or  iron 
rod  which  passes  from  the  end  of  a 
post   up   through   the   central   bottom 


A  Feeding  Table  for  Birds  That  will  Keep  Its  Open 
Side  Protected  from  the  Storms 

stock.  An  iron  rod  may  be  somewhat 
smaller.  Keep  the  holes  well  greased. 
The  house  should  be  given  a  couple 
of  coats  of  white,  red,  or  green  paint, 
and  the  post  painted  to  correspond. 
Feed  and  water  are  placed  in  shallow 
dishes  on  the  floor  and  they  should  be 
blocked  to  keep  them  from  sliding  out. 
— Contributed  by  C.  C.  Fraser,  Sagi- 
naw,  Mich. 


A  Sack  Holder 

An  old  granite  kettle  or  tin  pail  with 
the  bottom  cut  out  and  three  8-penny 
wire  nails  bent  and  fastened  on  with 
rivets,  as  shown  at  A,  makes  as  good 
a  sack  holder  as  one  could  desire.     A 


A    Granite    Kettle    Forms    a 

Holder    That     Makes     It 

Easy  to  Fill   the  Sack 


chain  attached  to  the  handle  makes  it 
conveniently  adjustable  to  the  proper 


height  for  the  sack. 


138 


Time   Indicator  for   Medicine   Bottles 

The  time  to  give  a  patient  the  next 
dose  of  medicine  can  be  set  on  the  in- 
dicator, as  shown  in  the  sketch,  and 
retained  without 
fear  of  its  being 
changed  until 
the  dose  is  again 
given.  The  in- 
dicator consists 
of  a  strip  of 
paper  which  will 
reach  around  the 
bottle  neck  and 
is  divided  into  24 
equal  parts  rep- 
resenting hours 
and  half  hours.  The  paper  is  then 
pasted  to  the  bottle  neck.  An  ordi- 
nary pin  is  then  pushed  into  the  cork  as 
shown.  After  a  dose  of  medicine  is 
given  to  the  patient  the  cork  is  re- 
placed so  that  the  head  of  the  pin  will 
indicate  the  time  for  the  ne.xt  dose. 
By  this  method,  an  accidental  shifting 
of  the   indicator  is  almost  impossible. 


A  Washtub  Stand 

Usually  two  old  chairs  or  an  old  box 
makes  the  stand  for  the  washtub,  and 
these  are  not  always  the  right  height. 
A  stand,  like  that  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration and  having  the  proper  height 
for  the  one  who  does  the  washing,  can 
be  easily  made  of  2  by  4-in.  material 
and  a  few  boards.    As  it  is  shown,  the 


stand  Provides  a  Place 
for  the  ■Washing  Utensils 
and  It  is  Always  the 
Proper  Height 


wringer  is  fastened  on  top  of  the  back 
and  may  remain  there  all  the  time,  it 
being  out   of   the   way,   always   in    its 
proper  place,  and  held  very  firmly. 
A  light  bracket,  on  which  to  set  the 


clothes  basket,  can  be  made  and 
fastened  on  the  back  of  the  stand,  con- 
nected with  two  hinges  and  supported 
by  a  leg  hinged  to  the  bracket,  the 
lower  end  of  the  leg  resting  on  the 
floor  back  of  the  stand. 

A  small  drawer  may  also  be  pro- 
vided in  the  front,  in  which  to  put 
away  the  soap  and  brushes,  and  the 
wash  boiler  can  be  set  underneath. 
When  one  is  through  washing,  the 
bracket  at  the  back  is  let  down,  the 
washstand  set  up  against  the  wall  out 
of  the  way,  and  everything  is  then  in 
its  place,  ready  for  the  next  wash  day. 
— Contributed  by  Chas.  Homewood, 
Waterloo,  la. 


Pipe  Used  as  a  Leather  Punch 

The  sketch  shows  how  a  very  cheap 
and  serviceable  leather  punch  can  be 
made  of  an  old  pipe  nip- 
ple. Pieces  of  pipe  of  al- 
most any  size  can  be 
found  around  a  shop, 
and  it  is.  therefore,  usu- 
ally possible  to  quickly 
make  a  punch  of  the  re- 
quired size.  The  cutter 
end  can  be  ground  very 
thin  to  prevent  an  over- 
cut,  while  a  small  slot 
cut  a  little  above  it  will 
allow  the  removal  of  the 
leather  slugs.  For  its 
purpose,  this  homemade  tool  is  all  that 
can  be  desired  in  cheapness  and  utility. 


To  Prevent  Oilcloth  from  Cracking 

A  good  method  to  prevent  oilcloth 
from  cracking,  when  it  is  used  on  shop 
tables  or  counters,  is  to  first  cut  a  pa- 
per cover  for  the  table  on  which  to 
place  the  oilcloth  and  prepare  it  as  fol- 
lows: The  paper  should  be  well  oiled 
with  common  machine  oil  and  placed 
smoothly  on  the  table  to  be  covered. 
The  oilcloth  is  then  smoothed  out  on 
top  of  the  paper  and  stretched  tightly. 
The  oiled  paper  tends  to  keep  the  un- 
der side  of  the  cloth  moist,  which  pre- 
vents cracking.  The  cloth  wears  much 
longer  because  the  paper  acts  as  a  pad 


139 


How  to  Make  a  Flymobile 

By  EDWARD  SIEJA 


The  boy  owning  a  piishmobile,  or 
even  a  power-driven  auto  car,  is  often 
very  much  disappointed  because  mo- 
tion soon  stops  when  the  power  is  not 
applied.  The  car  illustrated  is  of  a  lit- 
tle different  type,  being  equipped  with 
a  flywheel  that  will  prt)pel  the  car  and 
carry  the  rider  a  considerable  distance 
after  stopping  the  pedaling.  The  fly- 
wheel also  aids  the  operator,  as  it  will 
steady  the  motion  and  help  him  over  a 
rough  place  or  a  bump  in  the  road. 

The  main  frame  of  the  flymobile  is 
made  up  of  a  few  pieces  of  2  by  4-in. 
timbers.  The  pieces  A  are  6  ft.  4  in. 
long,  and  the  end  crosspieces  B,  24  in. 
long.  These  are  jointed,  glued  and 
screwed  together,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1. 
The  frame  that  supports  the  driving 
parts  consists  of  a  piece,  C,  6  ft.  2  in. 
long,  and  a  piece  D,  2  ft.  11  in.  long. 
These  are  fitted  in  the  main  frame  and 
securely  fastened  to  the  end  cross- 
pieces  B.  Two  other  crosspieces,  E  and 
F,  are  used  to  strengthen  the  driving- 
parts  frame. 

The  entire  hanger  G,  with  its  bear- 
ings, cranks  and  pedals,  can  be  pro- 
cured from  a  discarded  bicycle  and  fas- 
tened to  the  piece  C ;  the  barrel  holding 
the  bearings  being  snugly  fitted  into  a 
hole  bored  in  the  piece  with  an  expan- 
sive bit.  The  location  will  depend  on 
the  builder  and  should  l)e  marked  as 
follows  :  Place  the  hanger  on  top  of  the 
piece  C,  then  put  a  box  or  board  on 
the  frame  where  the  seat  is  to  be  and 
set  the  hanger  where  it  will  be  in  a 
comfortable  position  for  pedaling. 
Mark  this  location  and  bore  the  hole. 

The    transmission    H    consists    of    a 


bicycle  coaster-brake  hub,  shown  in 
detail  in  Fig.  2.  A  split  pulley,  J,  U  in. 
in  diameter,  is  bored  out  to  fit  over  the 
center  of  the  hub  between  the  spoke 
flanges.  The  halves  of  the  pulley  are 
then  clam|)ed  on  the  hub  with  two 
bolts,  run  through  the  holes  in  opposite 
directions.  Their  heads  and  nuts  are 
let  into  countersunk  holes  so  that  no 
part  will  extend  above  the  surface  of 


The  Flymobile  is  a  Miniature  Automobile  in 
Appearance  and  is  Propelled  by  Foot  Power 

the  pulley.  The  supports  for  the  hub 
axle  consist  of  two  pieces  of  bar  iron, 
4  in.  long,  drilled  to  admit  the  axle 
ends,  and  screws  for  fastening  them  to 
the  frame  pieces  C  and  D.  This  con- 
struction is  clearly  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

The  arrangement  of  the  coaster- 
brake  hub  produces  the  same  efl^ect  as 
a  coaster  brake  on  a  bicycle.  The  one 
propelling  the  flymobile  may  stop  the 
foot-power  work  without  interfering 
with  the  travel  of  the  machine,  and,  be- 
sides, a  little  back  pressure  on  the  ped- 
als will  apply  the  brake  in  the  same 
manner. 

The  flywheel  K  should  be  about  18 
in.  in  diameter  with  a  2-in.  rim,  or  face. 
Such  a  wheel  can  be  purchased  cheaply 
from  any  junk  dealer.  The  flywheel  is 
set   on    a   shaft,    turning   between    the 


140 


pieces  C  and  D  and  back  of  the  coast- 
er-brake wheel  H.  Two  pulleys,  L, 
about  3  in.  in  diameter,  are  fastened  to 
turn  with  the  flywheel  on  the  shaft  and 
are  fitted  with  flanges  to  separate  the 
belts.  The  ends  of  the  shaft  should 
run  in  good  bearings,  well  oiled. 

Another  pulley,  M,  6  in.  in  diameter, 
is  made  of  wood  and  fastened  to  the 
rear  axle.  An  idler  wheel,  shown  in 
Fig.  3,  is  constructed  of  a  small  pulley, 
or  a  large  spool,  attached  to  an  L- 
shaped  piece  of  metal,  which  in  turn 
is  fastened  on  the  end  of  a  shaft  con- 
trolled by  the  lever  N.  The  function 
of  this  idler  is  to  tighten  up  the  belt  or 
release  it,  thus  changing  the  speed  in 
the  same  manner  as  on  a  motorcycle. 

The  elevation  of  the  flymobile  is  giv- 
en in  Fig.  4,  which  shows  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  belting.  The  size  of  the 
pulleys  on  the  flywheel  shaft  causes  it 
to  turn  rapidly,  and,  for  this  reason,  the 
weight  of  the  wheel  will  rvni  the  car  a 
considerable  distance  when  the  coaster 
hub  is  released. 

The  rear  axle  revolves  in  bearings, 
half  of  which  is  recessed  in  the  under 
edges  of  the  pieces  A  while  the  other 
half  is  fastened  to  a  block,  screwed  on 


fastening  them  to  the  pieces  P  and  Q, 
as  shown.  These  pieces  are  hinged 
with  strap  iron,  R,  at  one  end,  the  other 
end  of  the  piece  P  being  fastened  to 
the  crosspiece  F,  Fig.  1,  of  the  main 
frame.  The  lower  piece  Q  is  worked 
by  the  lever  S  and  side  bars,  T.  A 
small  spring,  U,  keeps  the  ends  of  the 
pieces  apart  and  allows  the  free  turn- 
ing of  the  axle  until  the  brake  lever  is 
drawn.  The  lever  S  is  connected  by  a 
long  bar  to  the  hand  lever  V. 

The  steering  apparatus  W,  Figs.  1 
and  4,  is  constructed  of  a  piece  of  gas 
pipe,  3  ft.  4  in.  long,  with  a  wheel  at 
one  end  and  a  cord,  X,  at  the  other. 
The  center  part  of  the  cord  is  woimd 
several  times  around  the  pipe  and  the 
ends  are  passed  through  screweyes  in 
the  main  frame  pieces  A  and  attached 
to  the  front  axle,  which  is  pivoted  in 
the  center  under  the  block  Y.  The 
lower  end  of  the  pipe  turns  in  a  hole 
bored  slanting  in  the  block.  A  turn  of 
the  steering  wheel  causes  one  end  of 
the  cord  to  wind  and  the  other  to  un- 
wind, which  turns  the  axle  on  the  cen- 
ter pivot. 

The  wheels  are  bicycle  wheels,  and 
the  ends  of  the  front  axle  are  turned  to 


f 

■ 

II  V-& 1 

i 

p?= 

,x      1;  N*      tj 

L^ 

[f 

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i 

rH  "^ 

ire 

m 

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^ 

1 

r- 

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J                       Fio.l 

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i 

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Fjg.5 


Plan   and    Elevation   of  the   Flymobile,    Showing  the  Location   of  the  Working   Parts,   to  Which, 
a   Few  Changes,   a   Motorcycle   Engine   can  be  Attached   to  Make    It   a  Cyclecar;    Also 
Details   of  the   Brakes,   Belt  Tightener  and  Coaster-Brake   Hub 


'ith 


over  the  axle.  A  simple  brake  is  made 
as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Two  metal  pieces, 
O,  preferably  brass,  are  shaped  to  fit 
over  the  shaft  with  extending  ends  for 


receive  the  cones  and  nuts,  instead  of 
using  the  regular  hub  axles.  The  ends 
of  the  rear  axle  are  turned  to  closely  fit 
the  hubs  after  the  ball  cups  have  been 


141 


removed.  A  large  washer  and  nut 
clamp  each  wheel  to  the  axle  so  that 
it  will  turn  with  it. 

The  body  can  be  made  up  as  desired, 
from  sheet  metal,  wood,  or  cloth 
stretched  over  ribs  of  wood,  and 
painted  in  the  manner  of  an  automo- 
bile. A  tank  and  tires  can  be  placed  on 
the  back  to  add  to  the  appearance. 
Fenders  and  a  running  board  can  be 
attached  to  the  main  frame. 

With  the  addition  of  some  cross- 
pieces  in  the  main  frame  at  the  front 
and  a  motorcycle  engine  fastened  to 
them  so  that  the  driving  sprocket  will 
be  in  line  with  the  sprocket  on  the 
coaster  hub,  the  builder  will  have  a  real 
cyclecar. 


The  Die-and-Box  Trick 

The  die-and-box  trick,  so  often  per- 
formed on  the  stage,  is  a  very 
interesting  and  mystifying  one.  The 
apparatus,  however,  is  simple,  consist- 
ing of  a  box,  die,  a  piece  of  tin  in  the 
form  of  three  adjacent  sides  of  the 
die,  and  a  hat.  The  die  and  box  are 
constructed  entirely  of  wood,  Ys  in. 
thick,  and  the  piece  of  tin  can  be  cut 
from  any  large  coffee  can.  The  box 
is  closed  by  four  doors,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  two  of  which  are  234  in- 
square,  and  the  others,  3Vs  in.  by  SVi 
in.  The  first  two  are  the  front  doors 
and  are  preferably  hinged  with  cloth 
to  the  two  uprights  A  and  B.  Small 
pieces  of  tin  are  fastened  on  the  doors 
at  C  and  D,  to  provide  a  means  to 
open  them.  The  other  doors  are 
placed  on  top  and  are  hinged  to  the 
back,  as  shown. 

The  die  is  3  in.  square  on  all  sides, 
and  is  constructed  of  two  pieces,  3  in. 
square ;  two  pieces,  3%  in.  by  3  in., 
and  two  pieces,  2%  in.  square.  These 
are  fastened  together  with  y2-'m. 
brads.  The  tin,  forming  the  false  die, 
is  cut  out  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  and  is 
then  bent  on  the  dotted  lines  and  sol- 
dered together  on  the  joint  formed  by 
the  two  edges  E  and  F.  All  parts 
should  be  painted  a  dull  black  with 
white  spots  on  the  die  and  false  die. 

The  trick  is  performed  as  follows : 


Procure  a  hat  from  some  one  in  the 
audience  and  place  in  it  the  die  with 
the  tin  false  die  covering  three  sides 
of  the  block,  at  the  same  time  telling 
the  audience  that  the  block  will  be 
caused  to  pass  from  the  hat  into  the 


With  the  False  Die  in  Place  It  Appears 
as  If  the  Box  Were  Empty 

box,  the  latter  being  placed  some  dis- 
tance away.  Inform  the  audience  that 
it  would  be  more  difficult  for  the  die 
to  pass  from  the  box  into  the  hat.  Re- 
move the  tin  piece  from  the  hat  and 
leave  the  die,  holding  the  surfaces  of 
the  false  die  toward  the  audience. 
This  will  give  the  impression  that  the 
die  has  been  removed.  Set  the  hat  on 
the  table  above  the  level  of  the  eyes 
of  the  audience.  With  the  back  of  the 
box  toward  the  audience,  open  one 
top  door  and  insert  the  tin  piece  in 
the  right-hand  compartment  so  that 
one  side  touches  the  back,  another  the 


The  Box  with 
Doors  on  One 
Side  and  the  Top,  and 
the  False-Die  Pattern 


side  and  the  other  the  bottom  of  the 
box.  Close  the  door  and  open  the  two 
doors  of  the  opposite  compartment 
which,  when  shown,  will  appear  to  be 
empty.  Tilt  the  box  to  this  side  and 
open  the  doors  of  the  side  opposite  to 


142 


the  one  just  opened,  which,  of  course, 
will  be  empty.  This  should  be  done 
several  times  until  some  one  asks  that 
all  doors  be  opened  at  the  same  time. 
After  a  few  more  reversals  and  open- 
ings as  given,  open  all  doors  and  show 
it  empty,  then  take  the  die  from  the 
hat. — Contributed  by  Harold  L.  Groes- 
beck,  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah. 


Homemade  Pantograph 

The  pantograph  consists  of  four 
pieces  of  wood,  the  dimensions  de- 
pending somewhat  on  the  size  of  the 
work  to  be  drawn.  A  convenient  size 
for  ordinary  drawing  and  enlarging  is 


1      X 

fit 


JT^ 


A  Picture  can  be  Enlarged  or  Reduced  by  Setting 
the  Screweyes  in  the  Holes  Designated 

constructed  of  four  pieces  of  hard- 
wood, preferably  maple,  i%  in.  thick 
and  %  in.  wide,  two  of  them  20%^  in. 
in  length  and  the  other  two,  18-)4  in. 
long.  These  are  planed  and  sand- 
papered and  the  ends  cut  round. 

All  four  pieces  are  laid  flat  on  a  level 
board  or  bench  top  with  their  edges  to- 
gether so   that  the  edges  of  the   two 


longer  pieces  make  right  angles  with 
a  line  drawn  tangent  to  their  ends. 
One  end  of  one  short  piece  is  placed 
flush  with  the  lower  ends  of  the  two 
long  pieces,  and  one  end  of  the  other 
short  piece  flush  with  the  upper  ends, 
as  shown.  They  should  be  clamped 
down  solidly  to  keep  them  from  mov- 
ing while  laying  off  the  divisions. 
Light  lines  are  drawn  across  their 
faces  as  designated  by  the  dimensions. 
On  these  lines  and  exactly  in  the 
center  of  the  pieces  make  small  marks 
with  a  pencil  point.  Through  the 
pieces  A  and  B  holes  are  drilled  to 
snugly  receive  the  body  of  a  small 
screweye.  The  other  two  pieces  are 
drilled  with  a  smaller  drill  so  that  the 
threads  of  the  screweye  will  take  hold 
in  the  wood. 

The  end  C  of  the  piece  A  has  a 
metal  stand  made  of  brass  as  shown  at 
D.  This  is  fastened  to  the  end  of  the 
wood  with  a  small  bolt.  The  hole 
should  be  a  snug  fit  over  the  body  of 
the  bolt.  The  lower  ends  of  the  brass 
are  drilled  to  admit  thumb  tacks  for 
holding  it  to  the  drawing  board. 

The  joint  at  E  is  made  of  a  suitable 
binding  post  that  can  be  procured  at 
an  electrical  shop,  the  shank  below 
the  two  joined  pieces  to  be  the  same 
length  as  the  height  of  the  metal  stand 
D.  The  end  should  be  filed  round  and 
polished  so  that  it  will  slip  over  the 
board  or  paper  easily. 

The  stylus  or  tracing  point  F  is 
made  of  another  binding  post,  in  the 
same  manner,  but  instead  of  a  round- 
ing end  a  slightly  blunt,  pointed  end 
is  filed  on  it.  The  end  of  the  piece  G 
is  strengthened  by  gluing  a  small  block 
of  the  same  material  on  both  upper 
and  under  side.  A  hole  is  then  made 
through  them  to  receive  a  pencil 
rather  tightly. 

The  holes,  as  will  be  seen,  are  num- 
bered from  1  to  34.  At  the  crossing 
of  each  pair,  H  and  J,  the  screweyes 
must  be  set  in  the  holes  numbered 
alike  on  both  pieces  of  each  pair.  This 
will  insure  the  proper  working  of  the 
parts.  The  other  numbers  designate 
how  much  the  instrument  will  enlarge 
a   picture   or   reduce   it.     On   the   pair 


143 


not  numbered  in  the  sketch  the  num- 
bers run  in  the  opposite  direction. 

The  end  C  is  fastened  to  the  left 
side  of  the  drawing  board,  the  picture 
to  be  enlarged  is  placed  under  the 
stylus  or  tracer  point,  and  the  paper 
under  the  pencil  point  G.  Move  the 
tracing  point  over  the  general  outline 
of  the  picture  without  making  any  line 
before  starting,  so  as  to  make  sure  that 
the  paper  and  picture  are  located  right. 
It  is  then  only  necessary  to  take  hold 
of  the  pencil  and  move  it  over  the 
paper  while  watching  the  tracer  point 
to  keep  it  following  the  lines  of  the 
picture.  To  make  a  reduced  picture, 
the  original  is  placed  under  G,  the 
tracer  point  changed  to  G  and  the 
pencil  to  F. 


Trapping  Mosquitoes 

Klosquitoes  that  light  on  the  ceiling 
may  be  easily  destroyed  with  the  in- 
strument shown  in  the  sketch.  It  con- 
sists of  a  cover, 
such  as  used  on 
jelly  glasses, 
nailed  to  the 
end  of  an  old 
broom  handle 
A  little  kerosene 
oil  is  placed  in 
the  cover  and 
the  device  is 
passed  closely  beneath  the  location  of 
the  mosquitoes.  They  will  be  over- 
come by  the  fumes  and  drop  into  the 
fluid  as  soon  as  it  comes  under  them. 
— Contributed  by  J.  J.  Kolar,  May- 
wood,  111. 


Pen  Rack  on  an  Ink  Bottle 

A  piece  of  wire,  about  1  ft.  long,  is 
bent  into  the  shape  shown  and  slipped 
over  the  neck  of  the  ink  bottle.  The 
ends  forming  the 
loop  around  the 
neck  should  fit 
tightly.  The  up- 
per part  of  the 
wire  is  shaped  to 
hold  the  penholder. — Contributed  by 
\V.  A.  Saul,  E.  Lexington,  Mass. 


Substitute  for  a  Broken  Bench- 
Vise  Nut 

It  is  frequently  the  case  that  the  nut 
on  a  bench-vise  screw  breaks  from  be- 
ing subjected  to  a  too  violent  strain.   If 


© 


1  wo  Pieces  of  Strap  Iron  Shaped  to  Fit  the    Square 
1  hread  Make  a  uood  Substitute  Nut 

one  is  working  in  a  place  where  a  new 
nut  cannot  be  obtained,  the  broken  part 
may  be  replaced  by  the  substitute 
shown  in  the  sketch.  Any  piece  of 
strap  iron  may  be  used,  and  with  a 
round  file  and  a  drill  the  two  pieces  can 
soon  be  made  and  attached  to  the 
bench  with  screws  or  bolts.  A  slight 
twist  of  the  shaped  ends  is  necessary  to 
make  them  fit  the  angle  of  the  thread. 
— Contributed  by  Oscar  M.  W'addell, 
Lamedeer,  ^lont. 


Scissors  Sharpener 

Procure  an  ordinary  wood  clothespin 
and  drill  a  %-iri.  hole  through  its 
blades,  then  insert  a  piece  of  hardened 
i/8-in.  drill  rod,  which  should  be  a  driv- 
ing fit.  In  using  this  de\ice,  take  the 
scissors  and  attempt   to  cut  the  steel 


In  Attempting  to  Cut  the  Hardened  Steel  Pin 
the  Edge  is  Drawn  Sharp 

rod.  Do  this  three  or  four  times  and  a 
good  cutting  edge  will  be  obtained. — 
Contributed  by  \\'m.  J.  Tolson,  Lyons, 
Iowa. 


CAn  imitation-gold  color  may  be  made 
with  flake  white,  ground  in  varnish 
and  tinted  with  a  touch  of  vermilion. 
When  striping  or  lettering  is  done 
with  this,  it  will  have  the  appearance 
of  real  gilding  work. 


144 


Floor  Push  Button 

An  ordinary  electric  push  button 
can  be  used  for  a  floor  push  button  by 
placing  it  on  a  bracket  or  shelf  at- 
tached to  a  joist,  as  shown,  and  using 
a  nail  for  the  extension  push.  A 
%-in.  hole  is  bored  through  the  floor, 
also  through  a  small  piece  of  wood 
fastened  beneath  the  floor,  at  the  right 
place  to  direct  the  nail  so  that  it  will 
strike  directly  upon  the  small  black 
knob    of    the    push    button.      The    nail 


Push  Button  on  Joist 


should  be  just  long  enough  to  rest 
lightly  on  the  knob. — Contributed  by 
Reginald  R.  Insole,  Hamilton,  Can. 


A  Wrist  Brace 

To  strengthen  a  weak  wrist,  take  a 
piece  of  leather,  preferably  white  oak 
tanned.  2  in.  wide  and  14  in.  long,  and 
carefully  shave  it  down  with  a  sharp 
knife,  until  it  is  tV  in.  thick.  Then 
cut  it  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  the  wide  part 
or  body  being  7  in.  long,  and  the  nar- 
row part  or  neck,  G  in.  long  and  1  in. 
wide.  Cut  a  semicircular  hole,  1  in. 
from  the  extreme  end  of  the  body,  V12  in. 
wide  and  l^/l  in.  long,  to  allow  the  neck 
to  slip  through,  then  punch  three  holes 
in  each  end  and  lace  with  rawhide  or 
shoestring,  or,  better  still,  if  you  hap- 
pen to  have  a  small  buckle,  sew  it 
neatly   to   the   body.     It   looks  better 


Fig  I 
Brace  Made  at  Leather 


Fig. 2 


and  saves  time  in  adjusting.  When 
complete  and  on  the  wrist,  it  will  ap- 
pear as  in  Fig.  2.— Contributed  by  J. 
H.  Harris,  Berkeley,  Cal. 


Protecting  a  Kettle  Handle  from  Heat 

The  wood  handle  of  a  kettle  or  cook- 
ing utensil  when  not  in  use  usually 
comes  in  contact  with  the  side  of  the 
vessel  and  it 
will  absorb 
enough  heat 
each  time  to 
finally  char 
and  crack 
the  wood. 
The  heat  of  the  handle  at  times  is  so  in- 
tense that  it  often  results  in  a  burned 
hand.  The  spiral  metal  handle  pro- 
vides a  way  for  cooling  by  exposing  a 
considerable  surface  to  the  air,  yet  the 
metal  retains  the  heat  so  that  many 
times  it  is  too  hot  to  handle.  If  a  wood 
handle  is  provided  with  a  coil  of  wire 
as  shown  in  the  accompanying  sketch, 
the  wood  cannot  come  in  contact  with 
the  side  of  the  heated  vessel  and  the  air 
encircling  the  wood  prevents  it  from 
getting  too  hot  to  handle.  The  spiral 
can  be  attached  to  a  metal  handle  with 
solder. 


Tin  Can  Used  for  Watering  Chickens 

An  ordinarv  discarded  tomato  can 
makes  a  good  watering  vessel  for 
young  chick- 
ens. Care 
must  be 
taken  in 
opening  the 
can  to  cut 
the  tin  so  the 
cover  will 
hinge.  Cut 
the  tin  about 
li/o  in.  from 
the  bottom 
so  that  it 
will  form  a 
U-s  h  a  p  e  d 
piece  as 
shown  in  the 

sketch'  and  push  the  hanging  portion 
in  the  can.  Fill  the  can  up  to  the 
opening  with  water,  close  the  cover 
and  set  it  in  the  coop. — Contributed 
by  L.  Alberta  Norrell,  Augusta,  Ga. 


145 


— -ig.-j^ 


How  to   Make  a   Hurdle 

The  hurdle  consists  of  two  stand- 
ards, a  reach,  and  a  swing.  The  swing 
is  first  made  in  the  shape  of  a  rec- 
tangle of  four  pieces  of  wood,  about 
%  in.  thick  and  IV2  in.  wide,  of  which 
two  are  36  in.  and  the  others  18  in. 
long.  These  pieces  are  nailed  together 
in  the  manner  shown. 

Each  standard  is  made  of  three  pieces 
of  wood,  %  in-  thick,  3  in.  wide,  and 
18  in.  long.  Nail  the  pieces  firmly  to- 
gether, as  shown,  and  connect  their 
bases  with  another  piece  of  the  same 
material,  36  in.  long.  When  this  is 
finished,  connect  the  swing  to  the 
standards  with  long  nails,  A,  at  the 
ends  slightly  off  center.  Before  in- 
serting the  nails,  make  the  holes  in 
each  standard  to  receive  them  large 
enough  to  permit  the  nails  to  turn 
freely  without   allowing  the  heads  to 


The  Swing  of  the  Hurdle  will  Turn  When  Slightly 
Touched  and  Right  Itself  Again 

pass  through.  Thus  the  frame  will 
swing  freely  at  the  slightest  touch  of 
the  jumper's  foot,  and  right  itself  im- 
mediately. —  Contributed  by  C.  C. 
Fraser,  Saginaw,  Mich. 


Oil  Burner  for  a  Cook  Stove 

The  parts  of  the  burner  consist  of 
ordinary  gas  pipe  and  fittings.  The 
pipe  in  which  the  kerosene  oil  is  con- 
verted into  gas  is  Vo  in. 
in  diameter  and  is  con- 
nected to  a  suppl}^  tank 
of  oil  with  i/4-in-  pipe. 


A  Very  Cheap  Grade  of  Kerosene  Oil  can  be  Used 
in  This  Burner  with  Success 


The  burner  part  is  also  constructed  of 
i/4-in.  pipe  having  three  lo-in-  holes 
drilled  in  each  end  for  the  gas  to  es- 
cape where  it  burns.  These  burners 
are  located  just  beneath  the  large  pipe 
so  that  the  flames  will  heat  it  and  con- 
vert the  oil  into  gas.  A  needle  valve, 
A,  is  used  to  control  the  flow  of  oil. 
The  burner  is  placed  in  the  fire  box  of 
the  stove,  and  the  pipes  connected 
through  a  hole  drilled  in  the  stove  door, 
at  B. 

The  tank  may  be  rectangular  or 
round  and  should  be  of  sufficient 
strength  to  withstand  5  or  10  lb.  of 
pressure.  The  top  of  the  tank  has  a 
pet  cock  where  a  connecting  hose  from 
an  air  pump  may  be  attached.  The  tank 
is  filled  about  half  full  and  just  a  little 
pressure  of  air  is  put  on  the  oil.  To 
start  the  burner,  run  a  little  oil  in  a  pan 
or  fire  shovel  and  light  it  so  that  the 
flames  will  convert  the  oil  into  gas  in 
the  large  pipe,  then  turn  the  valve  A 
and  regulate  the  flame. — Contributed 
by  Robert  Hays,  Siloam  Springs,  .\rk. 


146 


A  Fish  Stringer 

The  illustration  shows  a  ver}-  sim- 
ple and  inexpensive  device  for  the 
angler  to  string  and  carry  fish.     It  is 


Inexpensive  Stringer  Made 
of  a  Pail  Handle  and 
Small  Chain 

made  of  a  pail  handle  throagh  which 
is  passed  a  piece  of  soft  wire,  having 
sufficient  length  for  bends  or  loops  at 
each  end,  and  a  piece  of  chain.  A 
chain  18  in.  long  is  sufficient.  One  end 
of  the  chain  is  fastened  in  the  loop  at 
one  end  of  the  handle,  and  the  other 
has  a  piece  of  wire  attached  for  push- 
ing through  the  gills  of  the  fish.  The 
other  end  of  the  wire  through  the 
handle  is  arranged  in  a  hook  to  catch 
into  the  links  of  the  chain. — Contrib- 
uted by  G.  O.  Reed,  Stratford,  Canada. 

Substitutes   for   Drawing   Instruments 

Three  of  the  most  used  draftsman's 
instruments  are  the  compass,  ruler 
and  square  or  triangle.  When  it  is 
necessary  to  make  a  rough  drawing 
and  no  instruments  are  at  hand,  com- 
mon and  easily  obtainable  things  can 
be  used  as  substitutes. 

A  sheet    of    heavy    paper    folded    as 


A    Compass.    Ruler    and     Square     Made    of    Ordinary 
Things  at  Hand 

shown  at  A  will  serve  as  a  ruler,  and 
the  same  sheet  given  another  fold  will 
make  the  square  B.  If  given  another 
fold    diagonally,   a  45-deg.    triangle    is 


formed.  A  substitute  compass  is 
readily  made  of  a  short  pencil  and  a 
pocket  knife,  as  shown  at  C. — Con- 
tributed by  Jas.  J.  Joyce,  Olongopo, 
Philippine  Islands. 

How  to  Make  an  Aspirator 

A  simple  aspirator  that  may  I)e  used 
for  a  number  of  ditTerent  purposes, 
such  as  accelerating  the  process  of 
filtering,  emptying  water  from'  tubs, 
producing  a  partial  vacuum  in  vessels 
in  which  coils  are  being  boiled  in  paraf- 
fin, etc.,  may  be  constructed  as  fol- 
lows :  C)btain  two  pieces  of  brass 
tubing  of  the  following  dimensions: 
one  7  in.  long  and  %  in.  outside  diam- 
eter, and  the  other,  3  in.  long  and  Vi 
in.  outside  diameter.  Drill  a  hole  in 
one  side  of  the  large  tube,  about  3  in. 
from  one  end,  of  such  a  diameter  that 


Detail    of    the    Aspirator    and    Us     Connections    to    a 
Faucet,  for  Increasing  the  Speed  of  Filtration 

the  small  brass  tube  will  fit  it  very 
tightly.  Take  an  ordinary  hacksaw 
and  cut  a  slot  in  the  side  of  the  large 
piece,  as  shown  at  A.  This  slot  is 
sawed  diagonally  across  the  tube  and 
extends  from  one  side  to  the  center. 
Obtain  a  piece  of  sheet  brass  that  will 
fit  into  this  slot  tightly,  and  then 
solder  it  and  the  small  tube  into  the 
large  tube.  The  slot  and  hole  for  the 
small  tube  should  be  so  located  with 
respect  to  each  other  that  the  small 
tube  will  empty  into  the  largej  one 
directly  against  the  piece  of  sheet 
brass  soldered  in  the  slot. 

The  upper  end  of  the  large  tube 
should  be  threaded  inside  to  fit  over 
the  threads  on  the  faucet,  or  an  attach- 
ment soldered  to  it  similar  to  those  on 
the  end  of  an  ordinary  garden  hose. 
A  rubber  hose  should  be  attached  to 
the     small     tube     and     connected,     as 


147 


shown,  to  a  piece  of  glass  tubing  that 
is  sealed  in  the  cork  in  the  top  of  the 
large  bottle.  The  funnel  holding  the 
filter  paper  is  also  sealed  into  the  cork. 
Melted  paraffin  may  be  used  in  sealing 
the  glass  tube,  funnel  and  cork  in 
place,  the  object  being  to  make  them 
airtight.  The  filter  paper  should  be 
folded  so  that  it  sticks  tightly  against 
the  sides  of  the  funnel  when  the  liquid 
is  poured  in,  thus  preventing  any  air 
from  entering  the  bottle  between  the 
paper  and  the  funnel.  Turn  on  the 
faucet,  and  it  will  be  found  that  the 
time  required  to  filter  any  liquid  will 
be  greatly  reduced.  Be  careful,  how- 
ever, not  to  turn  on  too  much  water, 
as  the  suction  may  then  be  too  strong 
and  the  filter  paper  become  punctured. 

A  Key-Holder  Hook 

A  good  hook  for  hanging  keys, 
toothbrushes  and  other  small  articles 
^ can      be       made 


C 


from  ordinary 
wire  staples,  as 
s  h  o  w  n  at  A. 
One  leg  of  the 
staple  is  cut  away  as  shown  at  B 
and  the  other  leg  driven  into  the 
board  as  shown  at  C.  These  will  an- 
swer the  purpose  as  well  as  screw- 
hooks. — Contributed  by  W.  C.  Heidt, 
Chicago. 


A  Hand  Hoe 

A  hand  hoe,  especially  adapted  for 
weeding  or  cultivating  small  truck, 
particularly  onions,  can  be  made  of  a 
piece  of  hard  wood,  Ys  by  1%  in.  by  4 
ft.  long,  and  a  piece  of  old  bucksaw 
blade.     A  blade,  18  in.  long  and  2  in. 


Bucksawr  Blade  Attached 
to   a  Hardwood  Handle 


wide,  bent  into  a  loop  is  attached  with 
bolts  to  the  handle. — Contributed  by 
Ceo.  H.  Miller,  Iowa  City,  Iowa. 


Seed  Receptacle  for  Bird-Cages 

A  handy  seed  and  water  container 
for  a  bird-cage  can  be  made  of  a  com- 
mon spice  tin.     The  receptacle  can  be 


i 

H4 

^ 

iiiii'inv- 

11 

Spice  Tin  Attached  to  the  Wires   of  a    Bird-Cage  for 
a  \Vater  or  Seed  Receptacle 

filled  without  removal  by  simply  tak- 
ing off  the  cover.  Thus  the  seed  will 
not  be  scattered. 

The  tin  is  attached  by  cutting  a  hole 
in  the  back  as  shown,  and  bending 
the  side  edges  to  fit  over  the  wires  to 
hold  it  in  place.  The  bottom  strip  is 
a  support  which  rests  on  the  floor  of 
the  cage  and  prevents  the  tin  from 
slipping  down  on  the  wires. 


Kitchen-Utensil  Scraper 

A  flexible  utensil  scraper  is  one  of 
the  most  useful  articles  I  have  in  my 
kitchen.    It  covers  such  a  large  surface 


The   Blade   is   Flexible   so  It  can    Readily   Shape  Itself 
to  the  Curves  of  a  Kettle 

in  scraping  pans,  kettles,  etc.,  that  this 
most  disagreeable  part  of  the  kitchen 
work  is  quickly  and  easily  accom- 
plished. 

The  flexible  blade  is  attached  to  the 
tin  handles  with  small  rivets.  The 
blade  should  be  thin  and  narrow 
enough  to  allow  it  to  bend.  When  the 
handles  are  pressed  together,  the  blade 
curves  to  the  shape  of  the  utensil's  sur- 
face.— Contributed  by  Mrs.  Delia 
Schempp,  Brodhead,  Wis. 


148 


Anchor  Posts  for  a  Lawn  Swing 

A  very  substantial  and  convenient 
base  for  a  lawn  swing  can  be  made  by 
using  four  anchor  posts  of  cement,  as 


Fib.  I 


MOULD 
BOX 


An  Anchor  Post  of  Cement  and  a  Mold  Box  for  Shaping 
Four  Posts  at  a  Time 

shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  posts  are  made 
with  a  recess,  A,  to  receive  the  legs  of 
the  swing,  and  of  any  suitable  size. 
They  may  be  placed  with  the  upper 
face  on  a  level  with  the  lawn,  or  higher 
if  desired. 

A  rough  mold  box,  Fig.  2,  lined  with 
paper,  will  do  for  making  the  posts. 
The  box  does  not  require  any  top  or 
bottom ;  it  is  simply  placed  on  a  board 
and  lifted  away  when  the  blocks  are 
thoroughly  dried.  If  the  blocks  are 
leveled  when  placed  in  the  earth,  the 
swing  may  be  taken  down  and  erected 
again  without  the  usual  leveling  and 
bracing. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Automatic  Filter 

This  funnel-tilling  lil- 
ter  automatically  pre- 
vents the  solution  from 
running  over  if  the  fil- 
tering is  slow  or  the  fil- 
ter substance  becomes 
clogged.  The  upper  in- 
verted bottle  holds  the 
solution  to  be  filtered, 
the  cork  being  fitted 
with  a  glass  tube  as 
shown,  and  when  in  use 
the  cork  is  forced  into 
the  neck  of  the  bottle  so 
that  no  air  can  enter  be- 
tween it  and  the  glass. 
The  support  for  hold- 
ing the  bottles  has 
two  brackets,  one  to  fit  the  neck  of 
the   upper   bottle   and   the  other   used 


as  a  shelf  for  the  receiving  bottle. 
In  operation,  the  solution  runs  from 
the  upper  bottle  into  the  funnel,  hold- 
ing the  filter  paper,  but  it  cannot  fill 
the  funnel  completely,  because  the  end 
of  the  glass  tube  is  lower  than  the 
edge  of  the  funnel,  and  as  soon  as  the 
liquid  in  the  funnel  covers  the  end  of 
the  tube,  all  inflow  of  air  into  the 
upper  bottle  is  stopped,  and,  thereby, 
further  flow  of  the  solution  into  the 
funnel  prevented,  until  enough  has  fil- 
tered through  to  uncover  the  end  of 
the  tube  and  thus  permit  air  to  again 
enter  the  upper  bottle. — Contributed 
by  G.  Simons,  Chicago. 


Grinding  Scissors 

Whether  a  pair  of  scissors  be  ground 
or  filed,  the  marks  or  scratches  left 
from  the  contact  with  the  abrasive 
should  all  extend  across  the  bevel  in 


The  Direction  of  the  Grinding   Tool  should  be  Slightly 
Sloping  Toward  the  Handles 

the  direction  of  the  line  ED,  Fig.  1,  and 
never  in  the  direction  of  the  line  GF. 
If  the  cutting  edge  be  examined  under 
a  magnifying  glass,  the  tool  marks  or 
scratches  left  by  the  sharpening  proc- 
ess will  be  very  plainly  seen,  and  where 
these  scratches  intersect  with  the  face 
HI,  Fig.  3,  of  the  blade,  they  will  ap- 
pear as  teeth  along  the  cutting  edge  IK. 

As  a  pair  of  scissors  close,  the 
natural  tendency  is  to  thrust  the  ma- 
terial to  be  cut  out  of  the  angle  ABC, 
Fig.  1,  but  if  these  small  teeth  formed 
on  the  cutting  edge  point  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  line  ED,  this  slipping  action 
is  prevented  or  retarded  because  the 
fibrous  material  adheres  to  the  fine 
teeth  on  the  cutting  edge  of  the  blades. 

Wet  paper,  silks,  mohair  cloths,  etc., 
can  be  sheared  with  perfect  ease  and 


149 


dispatch,  when  scissors  are  sharpened 
in  this  manner.  The  same  principle 
holds  good  for  metal  snips. 

The  angle  HIJ,  Fig.  3,  varies  accord- 
ing to  the  material  to  be  cut,  and  the 
type  of  shear.  A  greater  angle  is  re- 
quired on  metal  shears  than  on  shears 
for  domestic  uses. — Contributed  by  A. 
Clifton,  Chicago. 


To  Repair  a  Leak  in  a  Canoe 

After  striking  some  rocks  with  our 
canoe,  it  sprung  three  very  bad  leaks. 
These  were  effectively  patched  with 
pieces  of  cheesecloth,  well  soaked  in 
liquid  shellac,  which  were  pasted  on 
the  outside  of  the  leak.  After  allow- 
ing this  to  set  for  a  few  hours,  it  will 
be  almost  impossible  to  remove  the 
patch.  This  is  an  inexpensive  and  al- 
most invariably  a  sure  remedy  for 
leaks.  When  the  cloth  is  dry,  paint  it 
over  with  the  same  color  as  the  boat, 
and  the  repair  can  scarcely  be  seen. — 
Contributed  by  William  B.  Smith, 
New  York  City. 


Holder  for  Loose  Window  Glass 

When  the  putty  becomes  loose  and 
the  glazing  points  work  out  on  win- 
dow glass,  tem- 
porary repairs 
may  be  made  by 
using  a  small 
piece  of  tin  or 
sheet  iron  bent 
as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  The  clip 
is  inserted  under  the  edge  of  the  glass 
and  hooked  over  the  back  of  the  sash 
parts.  This  will  hold  the  glass  firmly 
in  place  and  also  prevent  rattling. 


rectangular  piece  of  wood  and  is  fas- 
tened with  a  tenon  in  a  mortise  cut  in 
the    vise    jaw    B.      The    clamping    ar- 


The  Vise  Jaw  as  It  is  Attached  to  the  Bench   and 
the  Substitute  Screw  Arrangement 

rangement  consists  of  a  strap,  C,  at- 
tached to  the  piece  A,  then  run  over  a 
pulley,  D,  and  fastened  to  a  foot  pedal, 
E.  The  foot  pedal  is  fulcrumed  on  a 
crosspiece  of  the  bench  and  has  a 
ratchet  so  as  to  hold  it  when  the  vise 
is  set.  The  lower  end  of  the  vise  is 
fitted  with  the  usual  form  of  device  for 
parallel  adjustment.  A  coil  spring  is 
located  in  the  center  for  use  in  quickly 
opening  the  vise  when  the  foot  pedal 
is  released. — Contributed  by  A.  C. 
Westby,  Porter,  Minn. 


A  Cover  Strainer 

Quite  frequently  the  cook  or  house- 
wife wishes  to  pour  the  hot  water  or 
liquid  from  boiling  vegetables  or  other 
foods  without  removing  the  solids 
from  the  kettle.  This  is  easily  accom- 
plished, if  small  holes  are  drilled  in  the 
cover  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  The 
saucepan  or  kettle  can  be  tilted  and 
the  liquid  drains  through  the  holes. 
Further,  the  steam  from  cooking  food 


A  Homemade  Bench  Vise 

A  form  of  a  bench  vise  that  can  be 
easily  made  and  attached  to  a  work- 
bench is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
This  vise  requires  no  screw,  and  the  can  readily  escape  through  the  holes, 
parts  can  be  made  from  scrap  ma-  thus  preventing  the  cover  from  vi- 
terial.  brating,    or    the    liquids    from    boiling 

The  substitute  A  for  the  screw  is  a      over. 


A  Sufficient  Number  of  Holes  are  Drilled  in  the  Edge 
of  the  Cover  to  Make  a  Strainer 


150 


Homemade  Corn  Sheller 

Where  there  is  but  a  small  quantity 
of  corn  to  be  shelled  a  sheller  can  be 
made  of  a  few  scraps  of  wood  usually 


The  Projecting 
Nail  Heads  in  the 
Block  and  Lever, 
as   They    Pass. 
Shell  the  Corn 


found  on  a  farm.  A  block  of  wood 
having  a  sloping  notch  cut  from  one 
end  is  mounted  on  three  legs  as  shown. 
The  notched  part  as  well  as  the  lever 
is  thickly  filled  with  spikes  driven  in  so 
that  their  heads  protrude  about  1/2  '"■ 
The  ear  of  corn  is  placed  in  the 
notched  part  and  the  lever  pressed 
down.  Two  or  three  strokes  of  the 
lever  will  remove  all  the  kernels  from 
the  cob.  A  box  is  provided  and  con- 
veniently located  on  one  leg  to  catch 
the  shelled  corn. — Contributed  by  A. 
S.  Thomas,  Gordon,  Ont. 


An  Ornamental  Metal  Flatiron  Holder 

This  antique  iron  holder  or  stand 
can  be  easily  constructed  by  the  ama- 
teur bent-iron  worker.  A  strip  of  iron 
is  bent  over  at  the  ends  to  form  the 
side  legs,  and  the  front  leg  is  formed 
of  another  piece,  welded  in  the  center. 


Ornamental  Stand  Made  of  Either  Strap  Iron  or  Sheet 
Metal  to  Hold  a  Flatiron 

Openings    for    the    crosspieces    are 
then  cut,  the  legs  bent  into  a  scroll 


shape,  and  the  crosspieces  inserted 
and  fastened  by  spreading  or  upsetting 
the  ends. 

Instead  of  using  strap  iron,  the  stand 
can  be  cut  from  good  sheet  metal. 
This  would  save  the  trouble  of  welding 
(111  the  front  leg. 


How  to  Make  a  Watch  Demagnetizer 

A  watch  demagnetizer  that  will  give 
excellent  satisfaction  may  be  made  as 
follows: 

Procure  a  sheet  of  j\-'n\.  brass,  oVi 
in.  by  7  in.  Bend  this  piece  of  brass 
around  a  piece  of  hard  wood  having 
a  rectangular  cross  section  of  2iA  in. 
by  1  in.  The  joint  between  the  two 
ends  should  be  made  on  one  side,  and 
the  edges  should  lack  about  %  in.  of 
touching.  Next  obtain  two  pieces  of 
%-in.  brass,  3%  in.  by  3  in.,  and  cut 
an  opening  in  each  of  these,  2%  in. 
by  1%  in-,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
Bend  one  edge  of  each  of  these  pieces 
over  at  right  angles  to  the  main  por- 
tion of  the  piece.  Solder  these  two 
pieces  on  the  ends  of  the  rectangular 


Dimensioned   Parts   for   the  Construction    of  the  Core 
over  Which   the  Insulated  Wire  is  Wound 

tube  of  brass  and  cut  a  slot  in  each  of 
them  to  correspond  to  the  one  in  the 
rectangular  tube.  Place  the  rectan- 
gular piece  of  wood  back  in  the  tube  and 
you  are  ready  for  the  winding.  Use 
No.  18  gauge  single  cotton-covered 
copper  wire  and  fill  the  winding  space. 
Several  layers  of  paper  should  be 
placed  on  the  brass  tube  and  between 
the  layers  of  wire,  to  serve  as  an  in- 
sulation. Holes  may  be  drilled  in  the 
projecting  portions  on  the  ends  and  the 
coil  can  then  be  mounted  on  a  wooden 
base.  Mount  two  binding  posts  on 
this  base  and  connect  the  terminals  of 
the  winding  to  them. 


151 


To  use  the  demagnetizer,  connect  it 
to  a  110-volt  alternating-current  circuit 
with  a  rheostat  in  circuit  of  such  a 
form  that  the  current  will  not  exceed 
three  amperes  and  that  it  may  be  re- 
duced to  practically  zero  in  value  by 
increasing  the  resistance  of  the  rheo- 
stat. The  magnetic  field  inside  the 
coil    is    rapidly    changing   in    direction 


and  will  tend  to  destroy  any  perma- 
nent magnetism  that  may  be  possessed 
by  an  object  placed  inside  of  it.  The 
full  current  of  three  amperes  should  be 
allowed  to  pass  through  the  winding 
for  a  few  minutes  after  the  object  to 
be  demagnetized  is  inserted,  and  then 
gradually  reduced,  and  the  object  re- 
moved. 


Remodeling  a  Talking  Machine 

Having  a  talking  machine  of  an  old  F.  The  talking  machine  is  placed  on 
model  with  a  tapered  horn  I  decided  the  auxiliary  base  as  shown  in  Fig.  3. 
to  change  it  into  a  more  modern  type,      This   construction   produces   a   talking 


The  Horn  or  Sounding  Box  is  Constructed  in  the  Au 
Tube  to  the  Box  Consists  of  Ordinary  G. 

and  this  was  accomplished  as  follows: 
An  auxiliary  base  was  constructed  of 
i/^-in.  wood  on  which  to  set  the  part 
which  revolves  the  disks.  The  inside 
of  this  base  is  so  constructed  as  to 
form  a  horn  or  sounding  box.  The  two 
sides  and  sloping  bottom  of  the  horn- 
part  are  made  of  Vi-'m.  wood.  The 
form  of  this  box  is  shown  in  Fig.  1. 
The  dimensions  should  be  determined 
according  to  the  size  of  the  talking 
machine. 

The  connecting  parts  to  the  original 
horn  were  turned  downward,  as  shown 
at  A,  Fig.  2,  with  the  opening  entering 
a  piece  of  ordinary  gas  pipe  of  suffi- 
cient length  to  allow  an  elbow  with  a 
nipple  to  enter  the  auxiliary  base.  The 
pivot-holding  device  for  connection 
A  is  shown  at  D.  The  parts  are 
attached  to  the  box  with  a  clasp,  E, 
and  with  three  screws  in  the  nipple 
C,  the  end  view  of  which  is  shown  at 


xiliary    Base  and  the   Part  for  Connecting  the  Sounding 
as  Pipe  Fastened  with  a  Clip  at  the  Back 

machine  on  the  order  of  a  cabinet 
machine  without  the  tapering  horn. — • 
Contributed  by  H.  W.  J.  Lomglatz, 
Harrisburg,  Pa. 


Needle  for  Sewing  Burlap 

A  needle  for  sewing  burlap  can  be 
easily  made  of  the  ordinary  opener 
that  comes  with  sardine  cans.  All  that 
is  necessary  to  convert  this  tool  into  a 


The  Can  Opener  is  Provided  with  an 
Eye  and  to  Make  a  Needle  the  End  is 
Sliarpened 


needle  is  to  grind  the  blunt  end  to  a 
sharp  point,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. — 
Contributed  by  G.  C.  Beven,  Sault  Ste. 
Marie,  Ont. 


153 


A  Mysterious  Revolving  Wheel 

The  mystery  of  this  wheel  is  that  it 
seems  to  revolve  automatically  with- 
out any  visible  external  power.     It  is 


The  Wheel  as  It  is  Mounted  on   a  Needle,  and   Lamp 
and  Box  Containing  Magnet  to  Make  It  Turn 

at  the  same  time  an  amusing  trick  and 
an  instructive  experiment.  The  appa- 
ratus required  is  very  simple  and  can 
be  made  at  home. 

A  glass  bottle  is  half  filled  with  sand 
and  water,  so  that  it  will  stand  se- 
curely, and  a  cork  placed  in  the  neck. 
Into  this  cork  a  needle  should  be  in- 
serted so  that  it  projects  perpendic- 
ularly, which  is  most  easily  done  by 
heating  one  end  of  the  needle  to  a 
red  heat  and  then  pushing  it  into  the 
cork  as  deeply  as  possible.  Into  a 
disk  of  cork  of  suital^le  thickness  and 
at  four  points  on  its  side,  at  equal  dis- 
tances apart,  are  inserted  four  pieces 
of  copper  wire  of  the  same  length, 
each  bent  at  the  outer  end  to  form  a 
hook — these  copper  wires  thus  forming 
the  spokes  of  the  wheel.  The  rim  is 
made  of  a  small  iron  wire  bent  in  a 
circular  shape  and  held  in  the  hooks 
on  the  ends  of  the  copper  wires.  The 
now  completed  wheel  is  balanced  on 
the  free  point  on  the  needle,  so  that  it 
can  turn  easily. 

Place  an  alcohol  lamp  in  such  a  posf- 
tion  that  when  it  is  lighted  the  tip  of 
the  flame  will  just  reach  the  rim  of  the 
wheel.  (Any  other  flame  that  will  not 
soot  the  rim  may  be  used.)  In  the 
box  A,  placed  with  its  bottom  level 
with  the  wheel,  put  a  horseshoe 
magnet  so  that  the  flame  is  opposite 
one  of  its  poles.  After  the  lamp  has 
been  lighted  for  a  few  seconds,  the 
wheel  will  begin  to  revolve,  seemingly 
without  cause.     Why  does  it  do   so? 


Because  the  magnet  magnetizes  or  at- 
tracts the  part  of  the  ring  nearest  it 
while  cold,  but  not  when  it  is  glow- 
ing. Instead,  it  will  attract  the  cooler 
part  of  the  ring  nearest  behind  the 
flame  and  so  on,  the  wheel  thus  spin- 
ning round,  faster  in  the  same  propor- 
tion as  the  magnet  is  stronger  and  the 
iron  rim  smaller. 

If  this  experiment  is  shown  before 
spectators  as  a  trick,  the  performer 
may  say  to  the  audience  that  he  alone 
can  make  the  wheel  spin  around  with- 
out touching  it.  Should  some  one  ac- 
cept his  challenge,  he  may,  in  a  care- 
less way,  move  the  box  containing  the 
magnet  away  or  turn  it  around  so  that 
it  will  not  influence  the  iron  ring  and 
then,  of  course,  the  wheel  will  remain 
immovable. 


How  to  Make  a  Rabbet  Plane 

A  rabbet  plane  is  very  little  used  by 
mechanics,  but  when  it  is  wanted  for 
a  piece  of  work,  it  is  wanted  badly. 
While  doing  an  unusual  piece  of  work 
I  needed  a  rabbet  plane,  and  having 
none,  I  made  a  plane  as  shown  in  the 
sketch  in  less  time  than  it  would  have 
taken  to  go  out  and   borrow  one. 

The  body  of  the  plane  was  made  of 
a  piece  of  2  by  4-in.  pine,  1  ft.  long. 
A  1-in.  chisel  was  used  for  the  bit.  A 
place  was  marked  on  one  side  of  the 
wood  to  be  cut  out  for  the  chisel,  and 
a  1-in.  hole  bored  through,  the  narrow 
way,  so  that  one  edge  of  the  bit  cut 
through  the  bottom,  forming  a  slit  for 


A  Plane  Made  of  a  Piece  of  2   by    4-In.    Pine,   a   Chisel 
and  a  Large  Wood  Screw 

the  edge  of  the  chisel.  After  cut- 
ting a  groove  for  the  chisel  blade  and 
turning  in  a  long  wood  screw  as  shown. 


153 


to  hold  the  chisel  in  place,  I  had  as 
good  a  rabbet  plane  as  could  be  pur- 
chased.— Contributed  by  W.  H.  Young, 
Thompson,  Ga. 


Eye  Shield  for  a  Microscope 

The  difficulty  and  discomfort  ama- 
teurs experience  in  learning  to  use  a 
microscope  with  both  eyes  open,  or  in 
trying  to  keep  one  eye  shut,  can  be 
easily  overcome  by  attaching  a  piece 
of  cardboard,  similar  in  shape  to  the 
one  shown  in  the  sketch,  to  the  barrel 
of  the  microscope.  The  hole  A  should 
be  of  sufficient  diameter  to  allow  the 
cardboard  to  slide  freely  up  and  down 
on  the  barrel  to  the  proper  adjustment. 
This  simple  arrangement  will  relieve  a 
great  deal  of  the  eye  strain  and  will 


Shield  to  Cover  the  Eye  That  is  Not  Used  'When 
Looking  into  a  Microscope 


be  of  assistance  to  the  most  experi- 
enced users  of  microscopes. — Contrib- 
uted by  G.  B.  Fenton,  Charleston,  W. 
Virginia. 


Transferring  Magazine  Pictures 

Select  pictures  from  newly  printed 
papers  and  magazines.  Rub  wax  from 
a  paraffin  candle  over  a  sheet  of  clean 
white  paper,  covering  a  space  as  large 
as  the  picture  to  be  copied.  Place 
the  paper,  waxed  side  down,  on  rhe 
picture  and  while  holding  it  firmly 
with  the  fingers  of  one  hand,  rub  the 
back  thoroughly  with  some  hard  sub- 
stance until  all  parts  of  the  picture 
have  been  gone  over.  Remove  the 
paper  and  a  perfect  copy  of  the  picture 
will  he  found  upon  the  waxed  side. — 
Contributed  by  Kenneth  G.  Merlin, 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


A  Homemade  Egg  Separator 

Secure  some  small  wire  and  a  very 
large  can.  Cut  the  wire  into  several 
pieces  and  bend  them  as  shown  at  A, 


The  Contents  of  the  Egg  is  Placed  on  the  \Vire3 
Which  will  Separate  the  Yolk  from  the  White 

cut  the  can  and  bend  the  side  down  as 
shown  and  punch  holes  to  recei\e  the 
upper  ends  of  the  wires.  Make  the 
holes  so  that  the  wires  will  be  about 
5/16  in.  apart. 


A  Glue-Spreader  Holder 

The  spreader  that  is  supplied  with 
bottles  of  liquid  glue  should  not  be 
placed  on  any  surface,  as  it  will  soon 
stick  to  it.  A 
holder  that  will 
keep  the  spread- 
er in  a  safe  place 
can  be  made  of  a 
piece  of  wire 
which'  is  twisted 
about  the  neck 
of  the  bottle,  as 
shown  in  the 
sketch,  and  the 
ends  bent  up  to  receive  the  spreader. 


V_ 


Stop  on  a  Chair  Rocker  for  a  Baby 

For  a  baby,  too  small  to  rock  with- 
out tipping  the  chair  over,  a  small 
willow  or  other  suitable  rocking  chair 


The  Strip  on  the  Rocker   Prevents   the    Child  Tipping 
the  Chair  Too  Far  Either  'Way 

may    be    made    safe    in    the    following 
manner: 

A  strip,  A,   is  fastened  on  the  out- 


154 


side  of  the  rocker  with  small  screws  so 
that  it  may  be  removed  without  in- 
juring the  chair.  A  rubber-covered 
tack  driven  in  on  the  under  side  at  each 
end  of  the  strip  modifies  the  shock  and 
the  baby  can  rock  to  its  heart's  con- 
tent without  danger  of  turning  over. — 
Contributed  by  Mrs.  G.  W.  Coplin, 
Bay  City,  Mich. 


Homemade   Countersink   for   Wood 

A  round  or  flat-head  bolt  can  be 
made  into  a  good  rosebit  or  reamer  for 
countersinking  holes  for  screw  heads. 


Round  and  Square  Heads  of  Bolts  Shaped  and  Notched 
to  Make   Countersinks 

In  the  illustration,  Fig.  1  shows  a 
reamer  made  of  a  round-head  bolt,  and 
Fig.  2,  one  made  of  a  square-head  bolt. 
The  round-head  makes  the  best  reamer 
as  more  cutters  can  be  tiled  in  the  sur- 
face and  less  work  is  required  to  file 
it  into  shape. 


To  Maintain  a  Constant  Level  of 

Liquids  in  Vessels 

It   is  frequently  desirable   in  labora- 
tory experiments,  and  in  practica-l  work 
as  well,  to  main- 


^- 


tam  a  constant 
level  in  a  tank 
without  allowing 
it  to  become 
full.  In  many 
cases  an  outlet 
pipe  at  a  certain 
height  in  the 
side  of  the  tank 


is  not  desirable,  and  in  laboratory  ex- 
periments with  beakers  or  crocks  is,  of 
course,  impossible. 

The  diagram  shows  a  simple  but  ef- 


fective constant-level  device.  The 
outer  end  of  the  inverted  U-tube  is 
curved  upward  so  that  it  never  empties. 
If  desired,  the  upward  curve  may  be 
omitted  and  the  straight  end  immersed 
in  a  small  vessel  of  water.  All  that 
is  necessary  now  for  the  successful 
working  of  the  device  is  that  the  inner 
or  tank  end.  A,  of  the  tube  be  lower 
than  the  outer  end — in  other  words,  be- 
low the  level  of  the  end  B — and  the  in- 
ner end  below  the  level  of  the  fluid. 
Of  course,  the  U-tube  must  be  first 
filled  with  liquid  and  will  then  act  as 
an  intermittent,  never-breaking  siphon. 
Should  the  tank  fill  above  the  end  B, 
the  siphon  drains  the  fluid  down  to 
that  level  and  no  lower,  even  if  the  in- 
ner leg  of  the  tube  reach  the  bottom. 
To  maintain  this  level  against  loss  by 
evaporation  some  slight  inflow  is  nec- 
essary. 

It  will  be  noted  that  if  the  inner 
end  of  the  siphon  were  above  the  outer 
end,  the  siphon  would  break  as  soon 
as  the  liquid  in  the  tank  fell  to  the 
inner  mouth. — Contributed  by  Harry 
N.   Holmes,  Richmond,   Ind. 


Homemade  Electric  Bed  Warmer 

The  heat  developed  by  a  carbon-fil- 
ament lamp  is  sufficiently  high  to  allow 
its  use  as  a  heating  element  of,  for  in- 
stance, a  bed  warmer.  There  are  a 
number  of  other  small  heaters  which 
can  be  easily  made  and  for  which 
lamps  form  very  suitable  heating  ele- 
ments, but  the  bed  warmer  is  probably 
the  best  example.  All  that  is  required 
is  a  tin  covering  which  can  be  made  of 
an  old  can  about  3I/2  in.  in  diameter. 
The  top  is  cut  out  and  the  edge  filed 
smooth.  The  lamp-socket  end  of  the 
flexible  cord  is  inserted  in  the  can  and 
the  shade  holder  gripped  over  the 
opening.  A  small  lamp  of  about  five 
candlepower  will  do  the  heating. 

A  flannel  bag,  large  enough  to  slip 
over  the  tin  can  and  provided  with  a 
neck  that  can  be  drawn  together  by 
means  of  a  cord,  gives  the  heater  a 
more  finished  appearance,  as  well  as 
making  it  more  pleasant  to  the  touch. 


155 


A    Flash-Light    Telegraph   on    a    Kite 
Line 

An  ordinary  pocket  flash  lamp  is 
prepared  in  the  following  manner:  A 
brass  spring,  as  shown  in  the  sketch, 
is  bound  tightly  to  the  flash  lamp  with 
a  cord,  and  two  wires,  one  at  each 
end,  are  twisted  around  the  lamp's 
body,  forming  two  loops  at  the  top. 
The  kite  string  is  run  through  the 
loops  and  over  the  spring.  The  lamp 
is  then  placed  near  the  kite.  The  or- 
dinary pull  on  the  kite  string  does  not 
close  the  spring,  but  a  sharp  jerk  will 
pull  the  string  in  contact  with  the 
push    button    and    its    slight    pressure 


into     the     hole     to    pass     the     handle 
through.     The  board  may  contain  one 


The  Flash  of  the  Light 
on  the  String  may  be  Read 
as    Far    as    It    can    be  Seen 


causes  an  instant  flash  of  the  light. 
By  this  method  words  may  be  spelled 
out  in  the  telegraph  code. — Contrilju- 
ted  by  Joe  V.  Romig,  Allentown,  Pa. 


Hangers  for  Barn  Tools 

Means  should  be  provided  to  have  a 
place  for  all  the  tools  used  in  and  about 
a  barn.  The  forks  and  shovels  are 
usually  stood  up  in  a  corner,  but  they 
can  be  more  conveniently  taken  care 
of  by  making  a  hanger  for  them.  The 
illustration  shows  how  a  hanger  can 
be  easily  made  and  screwed  to  the 
wall  of  a  barn.  The  hanger  is  cut  from 
a  piece  of  board  and  has  a  hole  bored 
into  it  the  size  of  the  handle  on  the 
fork  or  shovel,   then  a  notch   is  sawn 


A  Notched 
Board  Provides 
a  AVay  to 
Hang  All  the 
Tools  Used 
about  a  Barn 


or  as  many  notches  as  there  are  forks 
and  shovels  to  be  hung  on  it.  The 
implements  are  hung  with  the  fork  or 
shovel  end  upward. — Contributed  by 
R.  Snyder,  Glidden,  la. 


Guide  Ropes  on  a  Bobsled 

The  sketch  shows  the  front  end  of 
a  bobsled  or  double  runner  made  of  a 
plank  bolted  upon  two  sleds.  The 
front  sled  is  so  pivoted  on  the  bolt  A 
that  it  may  be  turned  to  steer  the  bob, 
and  to  accomplish  this  result  the 
steersman  ordinarily  sits  with  his  feet 
braced  against  the  projecting  ends  of 


The  Most    Efficient   "Way  of  Attaching  Ropes  to 
the  Guiding  Runners  of  a  Bobsled 

the  crosspiece  and  passes  the  steering 
ropes  outside  of  his  feet,  with  the 
ropes  crossed  as  shown.     The  crossing 


156 


of  the  ropes  is  supposed  to  add 
leverage,  but  that  is  quite  wrong. 

The  rope,  running  from  B  to  C,  has 
a  lever  arm  from  A  to  E.  If  the  ropes 
were  not  crossed,  the  rope  would  lie 
along  the  dotted  line  BD,  whose  lever 
arm  is  the  distance  AF,  which  is  al- 
ways greater  than  AE,  therefore  the 
uncrossed    ropes   have   more   leverage. 

Observe  what  takes  place  when  the 
sled  is  steered  to  the  left :  The  dis- 
tance AE  decreases  much  more  rap- 
idly than  AF,  and  when  the  crossed 
ropes  have  lost  all  their  power,  the  un- 
crossed ropes  are  still  useful.  Many  a 
spill  has  been  caused  by  turning  the 
sled  to  a  position  from  which  the 
crossed  ropes  were  unable  to  restore 
it  to  a  central  position,  and  most  of 
such  spills  would  have  been  avoided 
if  the  ropes  had  not  been  crossed. — 
Contributed  by  R.  R.  Raymond, 
Wilmington,  Del. 


Brush  Hanger  for  a  Dark  Room 

Necessity  may  be  the  mother  of  in- 
vention, but  it  is  also  the  grandmother 
of  application,  and  application  is  the 
practical  side  of  invention.  Both  the 
amateur  and  the  professional  pho- 
tographer have  been 
bothered  by  spotting 
and  unequal  develop- 
ment of  negatives 
and  prints  in  tray  de- 
velopment, due  to 
various  causes,  and 
sometimes  by  the 
presence  of  dirt  par- 
ticles or  the  unequal 
or  incomplete  flow- 
ing of  the  developer 
over  the  surface  of 
the  sensitive  emul- 
sion. 

Most  professionals 
and  many  amateurs 
are  familiar  with  the 
use  of  the  camel's-hair  brush  to  avoid 
failures  of  this  character,  and  many  of 
them  use  a  brush  for  local  development 
in  certain  cases  where  it  is  necessary 
or  desirable.  Usually  the  brush  is  kept 
in  a  small  glass  cup,  somewhere  close 


at  hand,  but  it  is  often  in  the  way  when 
not  wanted  and  misplaced  when  most 
needed.  The  brush  can  be  kept  within 
reach  and  handy  for  the  operator  by 
arranging  a  light  counterweight  and 
pulley  with  a  string  attached  to  the 
brush,  so  that,  normally,  the  brush  will 
hang  from  the  ceiling  directly  over  the 
developing  tray  and  can  be  obtained 
for  use  when  desired. 

The  detail  of  this  brush-string  and 
counterweight  combination  was  delib- 
erately appropriated  from  the  old  plan 
of  suspending  the  piece  of  chalk  over 
a  billiard  table,  so  that  the  players 
could  easily  reach  it,  when  needed, 
while,  when  released,  it  would  be 
pulled  out  of  the  way  by  the  counter- 
weight. The  developing  brush  thus 
suspended  is  always  ready,  never  mis- 
placed, nor  in  the  way  for  other  opera- 
tions. This  arrangement  is  particularly 
convenient  where  a  bathroom  is  used 
as  a  dark  room,  and  the  shelf  space  is 
limited. 

This  same  manner  of  counterweight- 
ing  chalk  on  the  billiard  table  may  be 
applied  to  a  stove-lid  lifter,  to  keep  it 
within  easy  reach  and  always  cool 
enough  to  handle.  The  simplest  and 
most  inexpensive  way  of  making  this 
apparatus  is  to  cut  of¥  a  small  piece  of 
lead  pipe  for  a  counterweight,  and,  in 
the  absence  of  a  suitable  pulley,  use 
an  ordinary  screweye  fastened  in  the 
ceiling.  The  latter  is  really  better 
than  a  pulley  because  the  string  can- 
not run  off  the  screweye.  The  arrange- 
ment is  better  understood  by  referring 
to  the  sketcli. 


Lighting  a  Basement  Light 

There  was  no  switch  at  the  base- 
ment door  and  it  was  difficult  to  find 
the  droplight  in  the  dark.  Instead  of 
going  to  the  expense  of  placing  a 
switch,  the  contrivance  illustrated  and 
described  was  rigged  up  and  proved 
equal  to  the  requirements. 

A  yg-'n.  piece  of  wood  was  cut  about 
G  in.  long  by  2  in.  wide  and  a  recess 
made  at  one  end  for  the  socket,  as 
shown.  A  Vs-in.  hole  was  drilled  in  the 
center,  about  2  in.  from  one  end,  and 


157 


another,  large  enough  to  receive  the 
projection  from  a  pull  socket,  about  2 
in.  from  the  other  end,  or  the  end  to 
be  used  as  the  bottom  of  the  block. 
A  clamp  made  of  spring  brass,  as 
shown,  was  screwed  securely  to  the 
board,  to  clamp  the  socket  firmly.  A 
wire  was  passed  through  the  small 
hole  and  stretched  across  the  room 
from  the  door  at  a  height  to  bring  the 
light  about  G  ft.  from  the  floor.  Then 
the  socket  was  clamped  to  the  strip 
with  the  chain  passed  through  the  hole 
cut  for  it.  The  cord  attached  to  the 
chain  was  run  to  the  door  casing, 
passed  through  a  screweye  and 
weighted  with  a  nut  or  some  light  ob- 
ject, to  keep  it  taut.  To  light  the 
lamp  or  put  it  out  only  a  pull  on  the 
string  was  necessary. 

The  light  can  be  slid  along  on  the 
wire  from  one  end  of  the  room  to  the 


LiZi 


a_ 


Socket 
Attachment 

to  Turn 

a  Basement 

Light 

On  or  Off 

from  a 
Distance 


o 


other,  or  can  be  detached  from  the 
strip  when  desired  by  unhooking  the 
cord  from  the  chain  and  taking  the 
socket  from  the  clamp.  If  more  de- 
sirable, the  block  can  be  fastened 
permanently  to  some  object  instead  of 
being  on  the  wire. — Contributed  by 
L.  M.  Eifel,  Chicago. 


Projecting  Protractor  Readings 

A  simple  and  efficient  means  of 
projecting  protractor  readings  to  a 
larger  size  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  One 
point  of  the  compass  is  placed  at  the 
center  of  the  protractor  and  an  elastic 
band  is  looped  between  the  points. 
Then  the  points  are  spread  to  the  ra- 


dius desired,  and  the  protractor  is  read 
where  the  elastic  band  crosses  its  scale. 
A    light    band    should    be    used,    and 


The  Extension  Marks  can 
be  Easily  Read  on  the 
Protractor  under  the 
Elastic  Band 


looped  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  In  this 
way  a  circle  of  any  size  may  be  quickly 
divided,  if  a  pencil  mark  is  made  each 
time  the  band  comes  over  the  proper 
figure. —  Contributed  by  Thos.  L.  Par- 
ker, Wibau.x.  Mont. 


Removing  Grease  from  Paint 

When  removing  grease  from  paint 
by  using  ordinary  cleaners,  the  paint 
is  liable  to  come  off  in  the  washing. 
A  good  and  cheaply  applied  method  is 
to  rub  the  painted  surface  with  a  paste 
of  ordinary  whiting.  This  is  allowed 
to  dry  and  when  it  is  rubbed  off  with 
a  cloth  the  dirt  and  grease  is  taken 
away  with  it.  The  whiting  is  cheap 
and  can  be  purchased  at  any  drug 
store. 


A  Door  Stop 

A  very  good  door  stop  can  be  easily 
made  of  a  piece  of  metal  as  shown  in 
the  sketch.  The 
metal  is  bent  and 
fastened  with 
screws  to  the 
wall  against 
which  the  door 
swings.  The  ex- 
tending end  fits 
under  the  door 
knob  and  pre- 
vents it  from  striking  the  wall. — Con- 
tributed by  C.  R.  Poole,  Los  Angeles, 
California. 


.fft 


•0 


158 


Stretching  a  Curtain  without  a  Frame 

A  good  way  to  avoid  using  the  ordi- 
nary four-pole  curtain  stretcher  is  to 
make    use    of    the    following    method. 


A  Lace  Curtain  Hung  Double  on  a  Line  with  a 
Pole  Inserted  in  the  Fold 

Take  the  lace  curtain  and  fold  it  once 
lengthwise  ;  then  pin  it  up  on  a  tightly 
stretched  line  with  a  large  number  of 
clothespins,  and  slip  a  clean  pole  be- 
tween the  two  sides  to  keep  it  taut. 
This  method  not  only  stretches  the  cur- 
tain satisfactorily,  but  saves  consider- 
able time  otherwise  required  in  pin- 
ning the  curtain  to  the  four-sided 
frame. — Contributed  by  H.  Wynning, 
Chicago,  111. 


Welding  Small  Resistance-Wire 
Connections 

In  making  connections,  especially  in 
electrical  heating  devices  subject  to 
high  temperatures,  it  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion to  use  solder,  since  the  tempera- 
ture reached  in  the  device  would  cause 


An  Arc  is  Formed  with  a  Piece  of   Carbon,  to   Weld 
the  Twisted  Ends  of  Wire  Together 

the  solder  to  melt  and  run  out.  A  con- 
venient arrangement  for  welding  the 
connections  of  flatirons,  or  any  other 


fine  wires,  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
The  ends  of  the  wires  to  be  welded  are 
twisted  together,  and  the  weld  is  com- 
pleted by  forming  an  arc,  one  electrode 
of  which  is  the  twisted  connection  and 
the  other  a  piece  of  carbon.  The  re- 
sistance of  the  heating  unit  in  the  iron 
is  sufficient  to  limit  the  amount  of  the 
current  flow  so  that  a  short  circuit  does 
not  result. — Contributed  by  G.  Irving 
Davis,  Albany,   N.  Y. 

Bench   with    Folding   Seats 

To  pru\ide  a  bench  with  seats,  or 
shelves,  which  cannot  easily  be  taken 
away  unless  the  table  is  brought  along, 
hinged  brackets  are  attached  to  sta- 
tionary crosspieces,  which  are  fastened 


Bench,  or  Table,  with  a  Seat  on  Each  Side  That 
can  be  Folded  for  Carrying  Purposes 

on  the  extended  end  braces  of  the  table. 
A\'hen  in  use,  the  brackets  are  turned 
down,  thereby  providing  a  rigid  sup- 
port for  anything  that  may  be  put  on 
them.  If  it  is  desirable  to  have  the 
brackets  out  of  the  way,  as  when  carry- 
ing the  bench,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
fold  them  up. — Contributed  by  J-  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Rim  of    Wire  Wastebasket    Wrapped 
with   Felt 

In  ofifices  where  wire  wastebaskets 
are  used,  the  finish  of  the  desks  is  often 
marred  by  the  top  rim  of  the  baskets 
rubbing  against  them.  This  can  be 
overcome  by  wrapping  strips  of  felt 
around  the  rim  to  form  a  buffer. — Con- 
tributed by  Miss  F.  D.  Schweiger,  Kan- 
sas City,  Mo. 


A   Homemade   Roller   Coaster 

By  J     H.  SANFORD 


THE  popular  roller  coaster  that  fur- 
nishes untold  amusement  for  the 
multitudes  that  patronize  amusement 
parks  during  the  summer  can  be  easily 
duplicated  in  a  smaller  way  on  a  vacant 
lot  or  back  yard  for  the  children  of 
the  home ;  or  the  boys  of  a  neighbor- 
hood could  contribute  to  a  fund  and 
construct  quite  an  elaborate  afi'air,  on 
the  same  lines  as  described,  for  the 
combined  use  of  the  owners.  The  one 
described  was  built  with  a  track,  90  ft. 
long,  5  ft.  high  at  one  end  and  3  ft.  at 
the  other,  the  track  between  being 
placed  on  the  ground.  In  coasting 
from  the  high  end  to  the  low  one,  the 
coaster  will  run  up  on  the  incline,  then 
drift  back  to  within  24  ft.  of  the  start- 
ing end.  The  car  was  built  to  seat  four 
children  or  two  adults.     The  cost  of 


all  the  materials  for  building  this  roller 
coaster  did  not  exceed  $10. 


Inexpensive   Back-Yard  Roller  Coaster.  Suitable  for  the  Enjoyment 
of  the  Young  as  Well   as  the  Older  Persons 

159 


The  track  is  of  simple 
construction  and  re- 
quires but  little  de- 
scription. Itisnecessary 
to  have  it  straight  and 
nailed  firmly  to  the 
crossties  on  the  ground 
and  to  thetrestles  where 
it  is  elevated.  The  ties 
and  trestles  are  placed 
about  6  ft.  apart.  The 
two  trestles  for  the 
starting  platform 
should  be  set  so  that 
there  is  a  slant  to  the 
track  of  about  G  in.  for 
starting  the   car  with- 


160 


out  pushing  it.  The  car  can  be  carried 
back  for  starting  by  adults,  but  for 
children  a  small  rope  can  be  used  over 
the  platform  to  draw  it  back  on  the 


are  properly  adjusted,  and  securely 
fastened  between  washers  with  a  nut 
on  the  end  of  the  axle.  Guide  wheels, 
B,  are  placed  on  the  sides  in  the  man- 


^^ 


i|liii""||ii' "" 


I  HjJIII. 


„^||Mllillllllll|llll'>^ 


Tlgjn 


Detail   of  the  Car,   ^Vheels   and  the  Trestle,  Which  is   Attached   to  a   Tie 

ner  shown.    These  wheels  are  ordinary 


track,  or  a  small  windlass  may  be  ar- 
ranged for  the  purpose. 

The  main  frame  of  the  car  is  3  ft. 
long  and  about  13  in.  wide,  firmly  fas- 
tened at  the  corners.  The  axles  for 
the  wheels  are  machine  steel,  19  in. 
long,  turned  up  on  the  ends  and 
threaded  in  the  manner  of  a  bicycle 
axle  to  fit  parts  of  bicycle  hubs,  at- 
tached to  the  main  frame  as  shown  at 
A.  The  wheels  are  solid,  4  in.  in  diam- 
eter and  1  in.  thick,  and  are  set  on  the 
bicycle  cone  of  the  ball  cup,  after  they 


truck  casters,  not  the  revolving  kind, 
2  in.  in  diameter. 

About  Vj-in.  clearance  should  be 
provided  l^etween  the  guide  wheels  B 
and  the  guard  rail  C,  on  the  track. 
When  the  car  is  made  in  this  manner 
it  runs  close  to  the  track  and  there  is 
no  place  where  a  child  can  get  a  foot 
or  hand  injured  under  or  at  the  sides 
of  the  car.  The  one  described  has  been 
used  by  all  the  children,  large  and 
small,  for  a  year  without  accident. 


Door-Bell  Alarm 

A  simple  door-bell  alarm  for  inform- 
ing one  when  the  door  of  a  shop  or 
dwelling  is  opened  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  sketch.    It  consists  of  a 


Pt 


in/ 


Wiring  Diagram  and  Connections  to  an  Electric  Bell 
That  Rings  When  a  Door  Knob   is  Turned 

piece  of  spring  brass.  A,  bent  into  a 
circle  in  the  center  so  that  it  may  be 
clamped  on  the  doorknob  bar  by  means 
of  a  small  bolt  or  screw.  The  two  ends 
of  this  piece  should  be  separated  as 
shown  and  a  second  piece,  B,  mounted 


on  the  door  so  that  its  outwardly  pro- 
jecting end  is  between  the  ends  of  the 
piece  A.  One  terminal  of  an  ordinary 
vibrating  bell  circuit  is  then  connected 
under  the  head  of  the  clamp  screw,  and 
the  other  terminal  under  one  of  the 
screws  holding  the  piece  B  in  place  on 
the  door.  It  is  now  obvious  that  the 
bell  circuit  will  be  completed  and  the 
alarm  sounded  when  the  knob  is 
turned.  Make  sure  that  the  piece  A  is 
bent  so  that  the  circuit  is  completed 
before  the  latch  has  moved  a  sufficient 
amount  to  allow  the  door  to  open. 

The  circuit  leading  to  and  from  the 
switch  may  be  completed  through  the 
hinges  of  the  door,  but  it  would  be 
better  to  use  small  coil  springs  as 
shown.  There  would  then  be  no  likeli- 
hood of  the  circuit  being  open  at  any 
time,  which  might  occur  if  the  hinges 
were  used. 


CDiscolored  coiifee  and  teapots  may  be 
restored  to  their  original  brightness  by 
boiling  them  a  few  minutes  in  a  solu- 
tion of  borax  water. 


161 


A  Playground  Ferris  Wheel 


The  whole  wheel  is  carried  on  two 
uprights,  each  3  by  4  in.,  by  10  ft.  long. 
In  the  upper  ends  of  these  pieces,  A, 
a  half  circle  is  cut  out  to  receive  the 
main  shaft  B.  The  end  of  the  up- 
rights are  sunk  3  ft.  into  the  earth  and 
about  4  ft.  apart,  then  braced  as  shown. 
They  are  further  braced  by  wires  at- 
tached to  rings  which  are  secured  with 
staples  near  the  top.  The  bearings 
should   each   have  a  cap  to  keep  the 


each  pair  of  pieces  is  crossed  they  will 
fit  together  with  the  surfaces  smooth, 
as  shown  at  D.  A  square  hole  is  cut 
through  the  pieces  as  shown  to  fit  on 
the  square  part  of  the  main  axle. 
While  it  is  not  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion, it  is  best  to  strengthen  this  joint 
with  another  piece  of  wood,  cut  to  fit 
on  the  a.xle  and  securely  attached  to 
the  spokes. 

The  cars  or  carriers  are  made  of  two 


Detail   of  the    Uprights,    Axle    and    Spokes,    and    the    End   and    Side   Elevatione   of  the   Completed  Wheel, 

Showing   Braces   and  Cars   Attached 


shaft  in  place.  These  can  be  made  of 
.blocks  of  wood  with  a  semicircle  cut 
out,  the  blocks  being  nailed  over  the 
shaft,  while  it  is  in  place,  the  nails 
entering  the  ends  of  the  uprights. 

The  main  shaft  C  is  made  of  a  2V2-in. 
square  piece  of  good  material,  4  ft. 
long.  The  ends  are  made  round  to 
serve  as  bearings,  and  the  square  part 
is  fitted  with  the  spokes  or  car  car- 
riers. These  consist  of  4  pieces,  each 
1  in.  thick,  4  in.  wide  and  13  ft.  long. 
In  the  center  of  each  piece  cut  a  notch 
one-half  the   thickness   so   that   when 


sugar  barrels  cut  in  half.  The  hoops 
are  then  securely  nailed,  both  inside 
and  outside;  a  block  of  wood,  E,  se- 
curely attached  to  the  half  barrel  on 
the  outside,  and  another  block  on  the 
inside  opposite  the  outside  block. 
Holes  are  bored  2i^  ft.  from  the  ends 
of  the  spokes  and  a  bolt  run  through 
them  and  through  the  blocks  on  the 
edges  of  the  half  barrels.  The  extend- 
ing ends  of  the  spokes  are  used  to  pro- 
pel the  wheel.  Four  children  can  ride 
in  the  wheel  at  one  time. — Contributed 
by  Maurice  Baudier,  New  Orleans,  La. 


I<i2 


A  Merry-Go-Round  Pole 

An  inexpensive  merr3'-go-round  can 
be  made  of  a  single  pole  set  in  the 
ground  where  there  is  sufficient  vacant 


The  Ropes  being  Tied  to  the  Wheel  Rim  will  Easily 
Turn  around  the  Pole 

space  for  the  turning  of  the  ropes.  The 
pole  may  be  of  gas  pipe  or  wood,  long- 
enough  to  extend  about  12  ft.  above 
the  ground.  An  iron  wheel  is  attached 
on  the  upper  end  so  that  it  will  revolve 
easily  on  an  axle,  which  may  be  an  iron 
pin  driven  into  the  post.  A  few  iron 
washers  placed  on  the  pin  under  the 
wheel  will  reduce  the  friction. 

Ropes  of  varying  lengths  are  tied  to 
the  rim  of  the  wheel.  The  rider  takes 
hold  of  a  rope  and  runs  around  the 
pole  to  start  the  wheel  in  motion,  then 
he  swings  clear  of  the  ground.  Stream- 
ers of  different  colors  and  flowers  for 
special  occasions  may  be  attached  to 
make  a  pretty  display.— Contriliuted 
by  J.  Bert  Mitchell,  Wichita,  Kans. 


A  Theatrical  Night  Scene  with  the 
Appearance  of  Fireflies 

Use  small  shining  Christmas-tree 
balls,  about  the  size  of  a  hickory  nut, 
strung  on  strong  black  linen  threads. 
The  thread  is  put  loosely  over  a  hook 
at  the  back  of  the  stage  among  the 
evergreens  that  are  used  for  the  back- 
ground. The  ends  of  the  threads  are 
brought,  like  a  pair  of  reins,  to  the 
front  of  the  stage,  diagonally,  and  there 
manipulated   by   some   one   in   a   wing 


near  the  front,  standing  high  enough  to 
prevent  the  threads  from  touching  the 
heads  of  the  actors.  These  bright  little 
particles  darting  back  and  forth  among 
the  trees  appear  very  lifelike,  and  with 
the  addition  of  a  crescent  moon  just 
peeping  through  the  trees,  the  like- 
ness to  a  summer  night  is  quite 
striking. 

The  moon  effect  is  made  by  using  a 
piece  of  dark  cardboard,  about  2  ft. 
square,  covered  thickly  with  small 
green  boughs,  and  by  cutting  a  cres- 
cent-shaped opening  in  the  center,  cov- 
ering it  with  yellow  tissue  paper.  This 
cardboard  is  placed  well  back  in  the 
trees  and  a  lantern  hung  behind  it. — 
Contributed  by  Miss  S.  E.  Jocelyn, 
New  Haven,  Conn. 


Hulling  Walnuts 

Procure  a  barrel  that  is  water-tight 
and  mount  it  on  a  shaft  so  that  it  runs 
between  standards  like  a  barrel  churn. 
Fill  the  barrel  about  half  full  of  wal- 
nuts, cover  them  with  water  and  throw 
in  a  small  quantity  of  gravel  as  grind- 
ing material.  Close  the  opening  tightly 
and  turn  the  barrel  for  about  20  min- 
utes. The  walnuts  will  come  out  clean 
and  smooth  as  glass. — Contributed  by 
Arthur  Seufert,  The  Dalles,  Oregon. 


Stick  for  Lowering  Top  Sash  of  a 
Window 

To  make  it  easy  to  raise  and  lower 
the  upper  sash  of  a  bathroom  window 
which  is  behind  the  bathtub  I  devised 


i  ^ 

■u 

The  Stick  is  Fastened  to  the  Window  Sash  with  Screw- 
eyes  and  is  Always  Ready  for  Use 

the  following:  Procuring  two  screw- 
eyes  I  opened  one  sufficiently  to  slip 
it  into  the  other  as  shown  at  A.    Then 


163 


one  was  screwed  into  the  top  rail  of 
the  sash  and  the  other  into  the  end  of 
a  light  stick  a  little  longer  than  the 
length  of  upper  sash. 

The  device  is  left  on  the  window 
permanently  and  affords  a  ready  means 
of  handling  the  sash  without  stepping 
into  the  bathtub,  which  would  other- 
wise be  necessary. — Contributed  by  W. 
E.  Morey,  Chicago. 


on  the  choice  of  the  maker,  and  if  the 
bed  is  brass,  the  wood  can  be  finished 


An  Adjustable  Hacksaw  Frame 

The  frame  is  constructed  of  cold- 
rolled  steel,  14  i"-  in  diameter  and 
1714  in.  long,  bent  into  the  shape 
shown  and  then  cut  in  two  parts  at  A. 
Starting  at  a  point  about  fg  in.  from 
the  ends  made  by  the  cut,  drill  Vs-i"- 
holes,  then  space  three  other  holes  1 
in.  between  centers  and  drill  them 
%  in.  in  diameter. 

A  piece  of  steel  tubing,  i^  in.  in  in- 
side diameter  and  6%  in.  long,  is 
notched  on  the  ends  to  receive  the  pins 
B  and  C.  Slots  are  cut  in  the  ends  D 
and   E.  to  admit  the  blade  of  a   saw, 


The  Frame  is  Shaped  of  Cold-Rolled  Steel  and  Made 
Adjustable  with  a  Piece  of  Steel  Tubing 

and  half-round  notches  filed  on  the 
outside  surface  for  holding  pins  used 
in  the  hole  of  the  saw  blade.  The  spring 
of  the  steel  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the 
saw  blade  in  place.  The  Vs-in.  holes 
in  the  frame  will  permit  adjustment 
for  difTerent  lengths  of  blades. — Con- 
tributed by  Clarence  B.  Hanson,  Fitch- 
burg,  Mass. 


A  Bedroom  Cabinet 

The  cabinet  shown  in  the  illustration 
can  be  made  an  ornament  with  a  little 
care  in  workmanship  and  a  choice  se- 
lection of  materials.  The  cabinet  may 
be  either  fastened  to  the  head  or  foot 
of  the  bed,  facing  in  either  of  two  di- 
rections. 

The  size  of  the  cabinet  will  depend 


The  Cabinet  Makes  a  Handy  Place  to  Keep  Necessary 
Articles  for  a  Sick  Person 

natural  and  fitted  with  brass  bands  for 
l)rackets  and  holding  clips. — Contrib- 
uted by  W.  E.  Crane,  Cleveland,  O. 


A  Dull  Black  for  Cameras 

Such  parts  of  a  camera  that  are  apt 
to  reflect  light  must  be  covered  with  a 
dull  black.  A  mixture  for  this  purpose 
is  made  of  lampblack,  about  a  teaspoon- 
ful,  and  enough  gold  size  to  make  a 
paste  as  thick  as  putty.  Add  about 
twice  the  volume  of  turpentine  and  ap- 
ply to  the  parts  with  a  camel's-hair 
l)rush. 

As  the  turpentine  fumes  are  detri- 
mental to  the  sensitive  plate,  the 
camera  should  lie  left  open  until  these 
fumes  have  entirely  disappeared. 


A  Door  Fastener 

Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  fasten 
a  door  in  a  manner  to  prevent  children 
from  opening  it,  yet  so  that  it  is  easily 

opened      from     

either  side.  This    f^i 
can    be   done   by 
putting   a   screw 

or  curtain  hook  on  the  inside  of  the 
door  frame  and  using  a  piece  of  cord 
long  enough  to  loop  over  both  hooks. 
A  person  coming  in  or  out  can  remove 
the  loop  from  either  side.— Contributed 
by  John  A.  Cohalan,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


CA  floor  wax  can  be  made  by  melting 
1  lb.  of  yellow  beeswax  in  1/2  pt.  of 
hot,  raw  linseed  oil ;  then  adding  1  pt. 
of  turpentine. 


164 


Umbrella  Used  as  a  Flower  Trellis 

Procure  a  discarded  umbrella  and 
remove  the  cloth,  leaving  only  the  steel 
frame.     Join  the  ends  of  the  ribs  by 


Frame  Supporting  a  Vine 

running  a  fine  wire  through  the  tip  of 
each  rib  and  giving  it  one  turn  around 
to  hold  them  at  equal  distances  apart. 
The  handle  is  then  inserted  in  the 
ground  and  some  climbing  vine  planted 
beneath  it.  The  plant  will  climb  all 
over  the  steel  frame  and  make  a  very 
attractive  lawn  piece. — Contributed  by 
John  F.  Campbell,  X.  Somerville, 
Massachusetts. 


Combined  Shade  and  Awning 

An  ordinary  window  shade  makes  a 
good  awning  as  well  as  a  shade,  if  it 
is  attached  to  the  outside  of  the  win- 
dow with  the  device  shown  in  the  il- 
lustration. The  shade  and  spring 
roller  are  put  into  a  box  for  protection 
from  the  weather  and  the  box  is  fast- 
ened in  tlie  window  casing  at  the  top. 


Shade  Attachments 


A  narrow  slit  on  the  under  side  of  the 
box  permits  the  shade  to  be  drawn  out. 
The  stick  at  the  end  is  removed  and  a 


U-shaped  wire  inserted  in  the  hem  in 
its  stead.  The  wire  is  bent  so  the  ends 
may  be  inserted  in  holes  in  the  window 
casing.  As  the  shade  is  drawn  out,  it 
is  extended  outward  by  the  wire  in  the 
position  of  an  awning. — Contributed 
by  Arthur  Kesl,  Chicago,  HI, 


Vaulting-Pole  Attachments 

Some  means  must  be  provided  on 
vaulting-pole  standards  to  allow  for 
the  free  release  of  the  pole  should  the 
vaulter  strike  it  in  going  over.  One  of 
the  simplest  of  the  many  devices  that 
can  be  used  for  this  purpose  is  shown 
in  Fig.  1.  It  is  made  of  heavy  wire, 
bent  and  slipped  over  the  standard  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  projection  on 
the  inside  of  the  link  is  used  similar  to 
the  tongue  of  a  buckle  in  adjusting  the 
height  of  the  pole  on  the  standards. 

Each  standard  has  a  series  of  holes 
on  its  front  side.  These  holes  may  be 
numbered  for  convenience.     The  pole 


Fco  2 

Pole  Adjuster  on  Standard 


in  place  is  shown  in  Fig.  .'^. — Contrib- 
uted by  John  Dunlap,  Craghead.  Toll- 
cross,  England. 


Separating  Drinking  Glasses 

When  two  thin  glasses  are  put  one 
into  the  other  they  often  become  stuck 
and  cannot  be  removed.  To  separate 
them  with  ease,  set  the  lower  glass  in 
warm  (not  hot)  water  and  pour  cold 
water  in  the  upper  one.  The  expan- 
sion of  the  lower  and  the  contraction 
of  the  upper  will  make  release  an  easy 
matter. — Contributed  by  Maurice  Bau- 
dier,  New  Orleans,  La. 


CBronze  striping,  when  thoroughly 
dry,  should  be  covered  with  a  thin 
coat  of  white  shellac  'to  keep  it  from 


tarnishing. 


165 


A  Magic  String 

Procure  a  few  pieces  of  cotton  string, 
each  about  li/<;  ft.  long,  and  fill  them 
well  with  soap.  Prepare  a  brine  by  dis- 
solving three  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  in 
a  cup  of  water.  Place  the  strings  in 
the  brine  and  allow  them  to  soak  for 
two  hours,  or  longer.  It  is  necessary 
that  they  be  thoroughly  saturated  with 
the  brine. 

When  taken  out  of  the  brine  and 
thoroughly  dried,  suspend  one  of  them 
from  a  nail  on  a  ledge,  and  hang  a  fin- 
ger ring  on  its  lower  end.  Apply  a 
lighted  match  to  the  string  and  allow 
it  to  burn.  The  ring  will  not  fall,  but 
will  hang  by  the  ash. — Contributed  by 
C.  Frank  Carber,  Dorchester,  Mass. 


Edging  Flower  Beds 

To  improve  the  appearance  of  a 
flower  bed,  it  must  be  edged  evenly 
and  quite  often.  As  this  became  a 
tiresome  task,  I  constructed  an  edger, 
as  shown  in  the  sketch.  It  consists 
of  a  wheel  on  a  4-ft.  length  of  material, 
2  by  4  in.  in  size,  made  tapering  and 
having  a  cross  handle,  18  in.  long,  at- 
tached to  its  end.  The  wheel  is  8  in. 
in  diameter,  and  the  cutter  is  attached, 
as  shown,  across  the  center  of  the 
wheel  axle,  to  make  the  edger  turn 
easily  on  curves  and  corners.  The  cut- 
ter is  13  in.  long  and  turned  under  II/2 
in.  It  is  pushed  along  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  garden  cultivator. — Con- 
tributed by  A.  S.  Thomas,  Amhurst- 
burg.  Can. 


An  Electric  Stirring  Machine 

Desiring  a  stirring  machine  for  mix- 
ing photographic  chemicals,  I  set  about 
to  design  the  one  shown  in  the  illustra- 


A  Self-Contained  Electric    Stirring    Machine    for  Use 
in  Mixing  Photographic  Chemicals 

tion.  The  base  and  upright  are  made 
of  pine,  1  in.  thick,  the  former  8  in.  wide 
and  10  in.  long,  the  latter  8  in.  wide 
and  16  in.  long.  A  %-in.  slot,  12  in. 
long,  is  cut  in  the  center  of  the  upright, 
and  two  pieces  of  sheet  metal  or  tin,  2 
in.  wide  and  12  in.  long,  bent  at  right 
angles  along  the  center  of  their  length, 
are  placed  at  equal  distances,  on  each 
side  of  the  slot,  and  fastened  with 
screws.  The  distance  between  these 
pieces  depends  on  the  motor  used,  as 
its  base  should  fit  snugly  between 
them. 

A  small  battery  motor  is  purchased, 


An  Edger,  Similar  to  a  Garden  Plow,  for  Quickly  Trimming  the  Sod  around  a  Flower  Bed 


166 


and  its  shaft  is  removed  and  replaced 
with  one  measuring-  10  in.  in  length.  To 
the  end  of  the  shaft  is  soldered  a  piece 
of  wire,  bent  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
A  bolt  is  attached  to  the  center  of  the 
motor  base,  so  that  its  threaded  end 
will  pass  through  the  slot  in  the  up- 
right, where  it  is  held  with  a  wing 
nut.  The  battery  cells  may  be  placed 
on  the  back  of  the  upright  and  a  small 
switch  mounted  at  the  top  and  in  front. 
— Contributed  bv  Rav  F.  Yates,  Niag- 
ara Falls,  N.  Y.' 


A  Clothes  Rack 

The  rack  is  constructed  of  hard  wood 
throughout,  and  as  each  piece  is  made, 
it  should  be  sandpapered  and  varnished 


fli  Tie     ^     _. 


ff 


1^ 


-1  r: 


f 


ttzll 


Any  Number   of  Arms  Up  to  Its   Limit  may  be  Used 
at  a  Time 

or  otherwise  hnished.  The  plan  view 
is  shown  in  P'ig.  1 ;  the  construction  of 
an  arm,  in  Fig.  3 ;  and  the  pin,  in 
Fig.  3. 

The  base  is  %  in-  thick  and  of  the 
dimensions  shown  in  Fig  4.  The  pro- 
jection on  each  side,  measuring  GVo  in. 
long  and  1  in.  wide,  is  made  separately 
and  glued  to  the  main  part  after  dress- 
ing and  lieveling  the  edges. 

The  shelf  consists  of  material  2  in. 
thick  and  made  in  a  semicircular  form 
on  a  radius  of  S-^  in.  On  this  arc,  lay 
off  chords,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1 ;  the  first 
ones  on  each  side  being  one-half  the 
length  of  the  others.  Carefully  square 
up  the  edges  for  appearance.  To  lay 
oft'  the  post  holes,  scribe  an  arc  of  a 


circle  on  a  l~s-in.  radius.  Start  at  the 
edge  on  this  arc  and  lay  ofif  eight 
chords  of  equal  lengths,  and  bore  V^- 
in.  holes  on  the  marks. 

The  posts  are  turned  up,  as  shown 
by  the  detail,  Fig.  3.  This  will  require 
seven  posts  and  two  half  posts.  The 
half  posts  are  secured  to  the  base  with 
small  brads.  The  round  part  at  the  end 
is  turned  slightly  tajiering,  so  as  to 
make  a  tight  fit  in  the  hole  of  the  shelf. 
After  stringing  the  posts  on  a  piece  of 
brass  wire,  %;  in.  in  diameter,  and  bend- 
ing it  in  the  proper  shape,  the  posts 
are  glued  in  the  holes. 

A  T-shaped  slot  with  a  long  top  and 
a  short  leg  is  cut  out  with  a  scroll  saw 
in  one  end  of  each  arm.  Make  sure 
to  have  each  slot  exactly  Yo  in.  from 
the  upper  side  of  each  arm.  All  edges 
should  be  well  rounded  to  prevent  tear- 
ing of  the  clothes. 

Make  a  semicircular  platform  for 
the  arms  to  bear  upon  when  extended. 
This  may  be  either  half  of  a  turned  disk 
or  built  up  in  the  three  segments,  each 
fastened  with  screws  to  the  base.  If 
the  brass  wire  is  exactly  1  in.  from  the 
shelf  and  the  thickness  of  the  wood  be- 
tween the  T-slot  and  the  upper  edge  of 
the  arm  i/o  in.,  the  thickness  of  the 
platform  should  be  slightly  under  Vo 
in.  to  make  the  arms  rest  horizontally 
when  they  are  extended. 

The  shelf  is  fastened  to  the  base 
with  three  or  four  2-in.  screws,  and  the 
ends  of  the  brass  wire  are  run  through 
holes  in  the  base  and  clinched  on  the 
back  side.  The  rack  may  be  fastened 
in  place  on  the  kitchen  wall  with  two 
large  wood  screws,  or,  if  the  wall  is 
Itrick,  with  expansion  bolts.  The  fas- 
tening in  either  case  must  be  secure  to 
hold  the  heavy  weight  of  wet  clothes. — 
Contributed  by  D.  A.  Price,  Wilming- 
ton, Del. 


How  to  Make  a  Pair  of  Foot  Boats 

On  ponds  or  small  lakes  not  deep 
enough  for  a  boat  one  can  use  the  foot 
boats,  as  illustrated,  for  walking  on  the 
water.  The  boats  are  made  of  white 
wood,  known  as  basswood,  as  this 
wood  is  easily  bent  when  steamed,  and 


16: 


the  curved  part  should  be  shaped 
neatly. 

Two  sides  are  cut  out,  as  shown,  and 
the  boards  are  nailed  or,  better  still, 
screwed  to  them.  Each  straight  part 
may  consist  of  one  piece,  in  which 
case  there  will  be  no  joints  to  make 
waterproof,  but  if  boards  of  sufficient 
size  cannot  be  had,  pieces  can  be  used. 
In  this  instance  the  edges  should  be 
planed  smooth,  so  that  a  good  joint 
may  be  had,  which  can  be  made  water- 
tight with   white   lead. 

It  is  best  to  make  the  bottom  of  one 
piece  if  possible,  at  least  for  the  length 
of  the  curve.  The  wood  is  thoroughly 
steamed,  then  fastened  in  place  on  the 
curved  part. 

A  strap  of  suitable  length  is  fastened 
on  the  top  for  the  toe,  so  that  the  boats 
can  be  controlled  with  the  feet. 

To  propel  the  boats  along  easily,  a 
web  or  wing  should  be  attached  to  the 
under  side,   so   that   it   will   catch   the 


ear  of  corn   served.     The   square  bolt 
end  will  hold  the  ear  securelv  while  the 


Foot    Boats    for    Walking    on    Shallow  Water  Where 
a  Boat  cannot  be  Used 

water  on  the  back  thrust  while  it  will 
fold  up  when  the  boat  is  slid  forward. — 
Contributed  by  Waldo  Saul,  Lexing- 
ton, Mass. 


A  Green-Corn  Holder 

Neat  and  attractive  green-corn  hold- 
ers for  table  use  can  be  made  of  small- 
sized  glass  drawer  knobs,  having  a  bolt 
1  in.  in  length.  The  bolt  head  is  cut 
off  with  a  hacksaw,  and  its  body  is 
filed  to  make  four  sides  running  to  a 
taper,  leaving  enough  threads  to  secure 
it  in  the  knob.  The  threads  are  smeared 
with  white  lead,  then  it  is  screwed  into 
the  knob  and  sufficient  time  allowed  for 
the  lead  to  set  before  using  it. 

A  pair  of  knobs  are  required  for  each 


The  Glass  Knobs  Make  a  Clean 

and  Sanitary  Holder  for 

the  Ear  of  Corn 

kernels  are  eaten  from  the  cob. — Con- 
tributed by  Victor  Labadie,  Dallas, 
Texas. 


Inflating    Toy    Balloons 

The  inflation  of  rubber  Ijalloons  may 
be  accomplished  with  manufactured 
gas  by  using  the  simple  pipe  arrange- 
ment shown  in  the  sketch.  The  con- 
nection A  is  for  the  gas  hose,  which  is 
similar  to  those  used  for  a  table  lamp. 
The  gas  bag  B  is  a  football  or  punch- 
ing bag  connected  to  the  pipe  as 
shown.  This  receives  the  gas  as  it  is 
let  in  by  the  valve  A.  The  toy  balloon 
C  is  connected  to  the  pipe  in  the  same 
manner  and  the  valve  D  used  to  regu- 
late the  flow  of  gas.  The  gas  is  easily 
])ressed  out  of  the  ball  into  the  balloon. 


Pipe  Arrangement,  Punching  Bag  and  Valves  to 
Admit  Gas  to  a  Toy  Rubber  Balloon 

As  hydrogen  gas  is  much  better  than 
the  manufactured  gas,  it  is  best  to  use 
and  can  be  put  in  the  balloon  in  the 
same  manner. 


168 


Electric-Light  Mystery 

A  novel  attraction  for  a  window  dis- 
play can  be  made  of  a  piece  of  plate 
glass  neatly  mounted  on  a  wood  base, 


Electric  Light  Mounted  on  Top  of  a  Plate  Glass  with 
Hidden  Connections  on    the  Glass  Edge 

and  an  electric  light  which  is  placed 
on  the  top  edge  and  may  be  lighted 
apparently  without  any  wire  connec- 
tions. 

The  method  of  concealing  the  con- 
nections is  to  paint  the  edges  of  the 
glass  green,  then,  before  the  paint  is 
quite  dry,  lay  on  a  thin  strip  of  copper, 
making  the  connections  at  the  base  on 
both  sides,  and  to  the  lamp  in  the 
same  manner.  Another  coat  of  paint 
is  applied  to  cover  the  strip.  The 
color  should  be  an  imitation  of  the 
greenish  tint  of  glass  edges.  Any  de- 
sired lettering  can  be  put  on  the  glass. 
— Contributed  by  O.  Simonson,  Brook- 
lyn, N.  Y. 

An  Oar  Holder 

Persons  rowing  boats,  particularly 
beginners,  find  that  the  oars  will  slip 
out  of  the  oarlocks,  turn  or  fall   into 


The  Screweye   in   Position  on  the  Oar   and   over  One 
Prong  of  the  Oarlock 

the  water.  This  may  be  avoided  by 
turning  a  screweye  of  sufficient  size  to 
prevent  binding  on  the  lock  into  the 


oar  and  placing  it  over  the  lock  as 
shown  at  A,  so  that  the  pull  will  be 
against  the  metal.  The  oars  will  never 
slip  or  jump  out,  will  alwa3's  be  in  the 
right  position,  and  it  is  not  necessary 
to  pull  them  into  the  boat  to  prevent 
loss  when  not  rowing.  The  locks  will 
not  wear  the  oars,  as  the  pull  is  on  the 
metal  eye.  Place  the  eye  so  it  will 
have  a  horizontal  position  on  the  side 
of  the  oar  when  the  blade  is  in  its  right 
position. 


Cooking  Food  in  Paper 

A  flat  piece  of  paper  is  much  more 
convenient  to  use  than  a  paper  sack 
in  cooking,  as  it  can  be  better  fitted  to 
the  size  of  the  article  to  be  cooked. 
AVrap  the  article  as  a  grocer  wraps 
sugar,  folding  and  refolding  the  two 
edges  together  until  the  package  is  of 
the  proper  size,  then  fasten  with  clips 
and  proceed  to  close  the  ends  in  the 
same  way.  This  avoids  all  pasted 
seams  and  makes  the  package  airtight. 
— Contributed  by  J.  J.  A.  Parker, 
Metamora,  O. 


Washing  Photograph  Prints 

Photographic  prints  may  be  washed 
in  a  stationary  washbowl  with  just  as 
good   results  as   if  washed  in  a  high- 


A  Medicine  Dropper  on    a    Faucet   Produces  a  ^Vhirl- 
ing  Motion  of  the  \Vater  in  the  Bowl 

priced  wash  box,  by  cutting  of¥  the 
upper  end  of  the  rubber  nipple  on  a 
bent  glass  medicine  dropper  and  plac- 
ing it  on  the  faucet  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  This  arrangement  causes 
the  water  to  whirl  around  in  the  bowl, 
which  keeps  the  prints  in  constant 
motion,  thus  insuring  a  thorough 
washing. — Contributed  by  L.  O.  D. 
Sturgess,  Arlington,  Oregon. 


169 


Combination  Lock  for  a  Drawer 


The  principal  parts  of  the  combina- 
tion lock  are  the  five  disks  shown  in 
Fig.  1.  These  are  best  made  of  sheet 
brass,  about  iV  in.  thick  and  fi/o  in.  in 
diameter.  The  pins  for  turning  the 
disks  are  each  made  a  driving  fit  for  a 
hole  drilled  through  the  metal  at  a 
point  ;^§  in.  from  the  center.  Notches 
are  cut  in  the  disks  C,  D  and  E,  Fig.  1, 
to  receive  the  latch  end,  and  the  disk 
B  is  made  like  a  cam,  its  use  being  to 
raise  the  latch  into  its  keeper  when  the 
handle  is  turned  backward.  The  disk 
A  is  without  a  notch  and  has  only  a 
pin  for  turning  the  other  disks. 

The  disks  are  mounted  on  the  inside 
of  the  drawer  front  in  a  U-shaped  piece 
of  metal,  F,  Fig.  2,  which  carries  a  V4- 
in.  pin,  G,  as  their  bearing.  The  disks 
are  placed  on  this  pin  with  rubber 
washers,  H,  J,  K,  L  and  M,  between 
them.  These  serve  the  purpose  of  pre- 
venting the  disks  from  turning  too 
freely.  The  disk  A  is  fastened  tightly 
to  the  end  of  the  rod  N,  which  is  Vi  in- 
in  diameter.  The  outer  end  of  this 
rod  is  fitted  vvith  a  handle  or  turning 
head  as  desired.  That  shown  at  O  is 
made  of  two  pieces  of  wood  screwed 
together,  with  a  pointer,  P,  placed  be- 
tween them.  A  washer,  R,  is  placed 
between  the  drawer  end  and  the  handle 
to  take  up  any  looseness  and  to  allow 
the  free  turning  of  the  rod. 

A  dial,  S,  is  made  of  paper  and  the 
division  marks  and  numbers  placed 
upon  it.  The  latch  T  is  fitted  in  a  U- 
shaped  piece  of  metal,  U,  which  is  fas- 
tened to  the  inside  of  the  drawer  end 
where  its  heel  will  rest  on  the  edges  of 
the  disks.  When  the  right  combination 
is  made  by  turning  the  handle  first  one 
way  and  then  the  other,  the  latcli  will 
drop  into  the  notches  of  the  disks  as 
they  will  be  all  in  one  place. 

When  the  drawer  is  to  be  locked, 
turn  the  handle  back  from  the  last 
turn  made  for  the  combination  and  the 
latch  will  be  driven  upward  into  its 
keeper  and  the  notches  scattered  so 
that  the  latch  will  not  drop  until  the 
combination  is  again  set. 

The    numbers    for    the    combination 


can  be  found  after  the  disks  are  in 
place  and  by  turning  the  handle  until 
the  notch  comes  up  to  the  place  for  the 


The  Parts  as  They  are   Attached  to  a   Drawer  Front 
to  Make  a  Combination  Lock 

heel  of  the  latch.  The  number  beneath 
the  pointer  is  noted ;  then  the  next 
turned  up  in  a  like  manner,  all  being 
done  while  the  drawer  is  open  and  the 
disks  in  plain  sight.  The  combination 
can  be  changed  only  by  changing  the 
location  of  the  pins  in  the  disks. — Con- 
tributed by  C.  B.  Hanson,  Fitchburg, 
Massachusetts. 


How  to  Start  Small  Machine  Screws 

Small  machine  screws  are  sometimes 
very  difficult  to  start,  especially  when 
used  in  parts  of  a 
machine  that  cannot 
be  easily  reached 
with  the  fingers.  A 
good  way  to  start 
them  is  by  means  of 
a  piece  of  fine  wire 
wound  snugly 
around  the  screw  un- 
der its  head.  They 
can  be  placed  and  started  by  means  of 
the  wire  and  when  the  first  threads 
have  caught  the  screw  it  can  be  held 
by  the  screwdriver  while  the  wire  is 
withdrawn. — Contributed  by  F.  W. 
Bently,  Huron,  S.  D. 


170 


An  Umbrella   Holder  for   Display 
Purposes 

A  holder  that  is  especially  adapted 
for  use  in  hanging  umbrellas  for  dis- 
play in  a  store  can  be  easilj'  made  of  a 
piece  of  wire 
wound  in  a  coil, 
as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  to  fit 
over  the  end  on 
the  umbrella 
stick.  The  coil 
at  one  end  of 
the  spring  is 
formed  into  a 
hook  so  that  the 
umbrellas  may 
be  hung  in  screweyes  or  on  a  line,  as 
the  case  may  be.  The  end  of  the  um- 
brella is  stuck  into  the  spring,  as 
shown,  which  grips  it  tightly. — Con- 
tril)uted  by  Abner  B.  Shaw,  N.  Dart- 
mouth, Mass. 


Holder  for  a  Milk  Card 

It  is  the  general  practice  of  milkmen 
to  furnish  a  monthly  card  on  which 
the  housewife  marks  the  needs  of  the 
day  and  then  hangs 
it  outside  of  the 
door  for  the  infor- 
mation of  the  driver. 
This  card  also  serves 
as  a  record  for  check- 
ing the  accounts  of 
the  milk  delivered 
during  the  month, 
and  therefore  it  is 
desirable  to  protect 
it  from  snow  and 
sleet. 

In  order  to  furnish 
this  protection  and 
at  the  same  time 
make  it  unnecessary  for  any  one  to  go 
outside  of  the  door  to  hang  up  the 
card  on  stormy  days,  one  of  our  read- 
ers has  submitted  the  following  plan 
which  he  has  used  for  some  time. 

On  the  outside  of  the  kitchen  door, 
where  the  milkman  is  to  deliver  his 
bottles,  this  man  has  fastened  an 
ordinary  picture  frame  with  glass  but 


no  backing  except  the  door.  Through 
the  door  and  just  below  the  upper 
edge  of  the  glass  is  cut  a  thin  slot  in- 
clining downward  and  outward  so  that 
the  milk  card  can  be  easily  pushed 
through  the  slot  and  thus  be  dis- 
played behind  the  glass  in  the  frame. 
By  this  protection  it  is  kept  free  from 
mud,  snow  and  ice.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  step  outside  to  place  the  card 
in   the   frame. 


Frame  for  Printing  Post  Cards 
^rom   Negatives 

As  I  desired  to  print  only  a  portion 
of  some  of  my  5  by  7-in.  plates  on 
post  cards  and  the  part  wanted  was 
near  the  edge  of  the  plate,  I  cut  out 
the  printing  frame,  as  shown  at  A  in 
the  sketch,  to  accommodate  that  part 


Slots  Cut  in  the  Frame  to  Receive  the  Post  Cards 
without  Bending  Them 

of  the  card  I  reserved  for  a  margin. 
This  permitted  the  card  to  be  placed  in 
the  frame  without  making  a  bend. 
— Contributed  bv  T.  H.  Maysilles, 
Rochelle.   111. 


Finger   Protection  on   Laboratory 
Vessels 

A  simple  way  of  protecting  the  fin- 
gers against  being  burned  by  labora- 
tory vessels  in  which  liquids  are  boil- 
ing or  chemical  reactions  producing 
great  heat  are  going  on,  is  shown  in 


The  Ends  of  the  Cord  are  Held  Tightly  and  the 
Winding  Protects  the  Hands 

the  sketch.  A  rather  thick  cord  or 
yarn  is  wrapped  around  the  neck  of 
the   vessel   in   the   manner  shown,   the 


171 


upper  end  being  drawn  through  the 
loop  at  the  top  and  cut  off,  and  the 
lower  end  then  pulled  out  and  a  knot 
tied  in  it  close  to  the  windings  of  the 
yarn. 


Inlaying  Metals  by  Electroplating 

\'ery  prettv  and  artistic  effects  of 
silver  or  nickel  inlay  on  bronze,  copper, 
etc.,  or  copper  on  dark  oxidized  metals, 
may  be  obtained  by  means  of  etching 
and  electroplating. 

The  metal  on  which  the  inlay  is  to 
be  used  is  first  covered  with  a  thin 
coating  of  wax  and  the  design 
scratched  through  to  the  metal  with  a 
sharp,  hard  point  of  some  kind.  The 
design  is  then  etched  in  slowly  with 
well  diluted  nitric  acid,  allowing  the 
etching  to  penetrate  quite  deeply.  The 
metal  is  then  taken  out  and  after  a 
thorough  rinsing  in  water  is  hung  in 
the  plating  bath. 

As  the  wax  has  been  left  on,  the 
plating  will  fill  the  lines  of  the  design 
only,  and  will  not  touch  the  covered 
surface.  When  the  etched  lines  are 
filled,  the  object  is  taken  out  of  the 
bath  and  the  wax  removed. — Contrib- 
uted by  S.  V.  Cooke,  Hamilton,  Can. 


A  Novel   Show- Window   Attraction 

This  moving  show-window  attrac- 
tion can  be  simply  and  cheaply  made. 
The  things  necessary  are  a  small  bat- 
tery motor,  a  large  horseshoe  magnet 
and  a  large  polished  steel  ball,  per- 
fectly true  and  round,  such  as  used  in 
bearings.  The  other  materials  usually 
can  be  found  in  any  store.  Procure 
some  thick  cardboard  and  cut  two 
disks,  8  in.  in  diameter,  and  two  disks, 
71/2  in-  in  diameter.  Glue  these  to- 
gether to  make  the  wheel  A,  the  larger 
disks  forming  the  flanges.  Make  a 
smaller  wheel,  B,  the  size  of  which  will 
be  governed  by  the  speed  of  the  motor 
used.  The  wheel  A  is  mounted  in  a 
box  to  run  with  its  surface  close  to  the 
under  side  of  the  cover,  which  should 
be  of  a  thin,  stiff  cardboard.  The  wheel 
B  is  mounted  on  an  axle  that  runs  in 
metal    bearings.     The    magnet    D    is 


placed  on  the  wheel  A.  The  steel 
ball  E  is  put  on  the  thin  cover  of  the 
box,  and  the  magnet  causes  it  to  roll 
around  as  the  wheel  turns.     The  box 


The  Steel  Ball  is  Caused  to  Roll  Around  on  the  Cover 
by  the  Moving  Magnet 

inclosing  the  mechanical  parts  should 
be  placed  out  of  sight  when  used  in  a 
window. — Contributed  by  Clarence 
Guse,  Spokane,  Wash. 


How  to  Make  a  Mop  Wringer 

A  mop  wringer  may  be  made  and  at- 
tached to  an  ordinary  pail  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  Two  pieces  of  metal. 
A,  are  attached  securely  at  opposite 
sides  of  the  edge  of  the  pail,  holes 
being  drilled  in  their  upper  ends  to 
serve  as  bearings  for  the  roller  B.  The 
piece  of  metal  C,  which  is  duplicated 
at  the  opposite  side  of  the  pail,  is 
pivoted  on  a  bolt.  These  pieces  also 
carry  a  roller,  E,  at  their  upper  ends, 


The  Parts 
may  be 
Either  At- 
tached to 
a  Metal  or 
Wood  Pail 
with  Bolts 
or  Screws 


and  have  a  crosspiece,  F,  at  their  lower 
ends.  Discarded  wringer  rollers  can 
be  used  for  B  and  E.  A  coil  spring  is 
attached  as  shown,  to  keep  the  rollers 
separate  and  in  a  position  to  receive  the 
mop.     When   the   mop   is   placed   be- 


172 


tween  the  rollers  they  are  brought  to- 
gether by  a  pressure  of*  the  foot  on  the 
crosspiece  F. — Contributed  by  J.  Den- 
nis   McKennon,    New    Britain,    Conn. 


A  Vise  Used  as  a  Caliper  Gauge 

Not  infrequently  it  is  desired  to 
know  the  distance  from  one  side  to 
another  of  some   part   that  cannot  be 


o 


The  Jaws  of  a  Vise,  If  They  Are 

True.    Will    Make  a  Caliper    Gauge 

Giving    a    Perfect   Measurement 


directly  measured  with  a  rule,  and 
when  no  calipers  are  at  hand.  But 
with  a  vise  handy,  the  measurement 
can  be  made  with  ease  and  with  suf- 
ficient accuracy  for  all  practical  pur- 
poses if  the  vise  is  not  too  worn.  This 
trick  is  particularly  adapted  for  cali- 
pering  threaded  parts,  as  threads  can- 
not be  measured  readily  with  ordinary 
calipers.  How  this  may  be  done  is 
shown  in  the  sketch,  which  illustrates 
the  method  as  applied  to  a  screw.  The 
work  is  gripped  between  the  jaws  of 
the  vise  and  the  opening  then  meas- 
ured with  a  rule. — Contributed  by 
Donald  A.  Hampson,  Middletown, 
New  York. 


Homemade  Tack  Puller 

A  very  handy  tack  puller  can  be 
made  of  a  round-head  bolt.  On  one 
side  of  the  head  file  a  V-shaped  notch 
and    screw    a    wood    handle    on    the 


How  to  Make  a  Radium  Photograph 

The  radium  rays,  like  the  X-rays,  af- 
fect the  photographic  plate,  as  is  well 
known,  but  it  would  naturally  be  sup- 
posed that  the  enormous  cost  of  radium 
would  prevent  the  making  of  such  a 
photograph  by  the  amateur. 

It  is  a  fact,  however,  that  a  radium 
photograph  can  be  made  at  home  at 
practically  no  cost  at  all,  provided  the 
amateur  has  patience  enough  to  gather 
the  necessary  material,  which  is  noth- 
ing else  but  broken  incandescent  gas 
mantles.  These  (especially  Welsbach 
mantles)  contain  a  salt  of  the  rare 
metal  thorium,  which  is  slightly  radio- 
active. The  thing  to  do,  then,  is  to 
collect  a  sufficient  quantity  of  broken 
mantles  to  cover  the  bottom  of  a  small 
cardboard  box — a  dryplate  box,  for  in- 
stance— with  a  layer  of  powdered 
mantle  substance.  Upon  this  layer 
and  pressed  tightly  against  it  is  placed 
a  piece  of  cardboard  ;  then  some  metal 
objects,  a  button,  hairpin,  a  buckle,  or 
the  like,  are  laid  on  the  cardboard  and 
covered  with  a  sensitized  paper.  This 
is  again  covered  with  a  piece  of  card- 
board and  the  box  filled  with  crumpled 
paper  to  the  top.  The  cover  is  then 
put  on,  the  box  tied  up  with  a  piece  of 
string  and  set  in  some  place  where  it 
is  sure  to  be  left  undisturbed. 

The  radium  rays  from  the  powdered 
mantles  readily  penetrate  the  cardboard 
and  paper,  but  not  the  metal  articles. 
Being  very  weak,  the  rays  must  be 
given  four  weeks  to  accomplish  their 
work.  After  that  time,  however,  if  the 
sensitive  paper  is  taken  out,  pictures  of 
the  metal  objects  in  white  on  a  dark 
background  will  be  found  on  it.  These 
pictures  will  not  be  so  sharp  as  ordi- 
nary photographs,  because  the  rays  are 
not  focused,  but  they  fairly  represent 
the  originals  and  the  experiment  is  an 


The  Shape  of  the  Head  Permits  a  Leverage  Action 
That  Lifts  the  Tack  Easily 

threads.  This  makes  a  very  powerful 
puller  that  will  remove  large  tacks 
from  hardwood  easily. 


CA  good  imitation  mahogany  stain 
consists  of  1  part  Venetian  red  and 
2  parts  yellow  lead,  mixed  with  thin 
glue  size,  and  is  laid  on  with  a  woolen 
cloth. 


173 


Fountain  for  an   Ordinary  Pen 

Fill  the  hollow  end  of  an  ordinary 
penholder  with  cotton — not  too  tightly 
— and  one  dip  of  the  pen  will  hold 
enough  ink  to  write  a  full  page.  The 
cotton  should  be  changed  each  day.  A 
small  piece  of  sponge  will  answer  the 
same  purpose.  It  is  necessary  to  dip 
the  pen  deeply  into  the  ink. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  E.  Noble,  London  Junction, 
Ontario. 


Pulling    Wire    through    Curved 
Electric  Fixtures 

To  facilitate  the  running  of  electric 
wires  through  curved  fixtures,  nick  a 
heavy  shot,  A,  and  fasten  it  on  a  cord, 


A  Shot  That  will  Pass  through  the  Fixture   Arm   will 
Carry  a  Cord  for  Pulling  in  the  Wires 

B,  in  the  same  manner  as  a  fishline  is 
weighted.  The  shot  will  roll  through 
the  fi.xture  tube,  carrying  the  cord  with 
it.  A  cord  strong  enough  to  pull  the 
wires  through  can  be  easily  drawn 
through  the  opening  in  this  manner. 
The  shot  should,  of  course,  not  be  so 
large  that  it  can  possibly  bind  in  the 
tube. 


An    Automatically    Closing    Drawer 

A  very  ingenious  way  to  have  a 
drawer  close  automatically  is  to  at- 
tach a  weight  so  that  the  rope  or  cord 
will  pull  on  the  rear  end  of  the  drawer. 
The  sketch  clearly  shows  the  device 
which  is  an  attachment  similar  to  that 
used   for  closing  gates.     This   can   be 


h— 


The  Rope  and  Weight  Attached  to  the  Back  End  of 
the  Drawer  Pulls  It  Closed 

applied  to  drawers  that  are  frequently 
drawn  out  and  in  places  where  a  per- 
son  is   liable   to   have   the   hands   full. 


A   Cork  Puller 

The  stopper  of  any  ordinary  bottle 
can  be  easily  re- 
moved    with      a 
puller     such     as 
shown     in     the 
sketch.        The 
puller  is  inserted 
between       the 
stopper   and    the 
neck  of  the  bot- 
tle until  the  hook 
end  will  pass  under  the 
bottom    of    the    stopper, 
then     given     a     quarter 
turn  and  pulled  upward. 

The  construction  of 
the  puller  vents  the  cork 
as  it  enters  and  thus  no 
vacuum  is  created.  The 
cork  is  pulled  more  easi- 
ly than  with  an  ordinary 
corkscrew,  and  there  is  no  danger  of 
tearing  the  cork  to  pieces. 


0 


Uses  for  a  Bamboo  Pole 

Select  a  good  bamboo  pole,  about 
18  ft.  long,  and  cut  it  into  three  lengths 
as  follows :  A  piece  from  the  top,  3I/2 
ft.  long ;  the  next  length,  51/.  ft.  long, 
and  the  remaining  end  of  the  pole, 
about  10  ft.  long.    The  Si/o-ft.  length  is 


A   Bamboo  Pole  Cut  in  Three  Pieces  Makes  a  Window- 
Shade  Stick,  Duster  Holder  and  Clothesline   Pole 

equipped  with  a  screw  hook  in  the 
smaller  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  This 
stick  is  useful  in  lowering  window 
shades  that  have  a  ring  or  screw  eye 
attached  to  the  lower  part  of  the  shade. 
When  the  stick  is  not  in  use,  it  is  hung 
on  the  edge  of  the  window  casing. 

The  SV^-ft.  length  makes  the  long 
handle  for  a  duster.  Procure  an  old- 
style  lamp-chimney  cleaner,  wind  a 
cord  around  the  wires  a  few  inches  be- 
low   the    point    where    they    begin    to 


174 


spread  to  keep  them  from  coming 
apart,  then  cut  or  file  the  wires  off  2 
in.  below  the  winding.  This  leaves  a 
straight  shank,  over  which  a  ferrule 
is  slipped  before  it  is  inserted  into  the 
small  end  of  the  pole.  Fill  the  remain- 
ing space  in  the  pole  end  with  plaster 
of  Paris,  and  when  it  has  set,  slip  the 
ferrule  into  place  on  the  pole  end.  If 
a  ferrule  is  not  at  hand,  a  tine  wire  can 
be  wound  around  the  end  to  prevent 
the  pole  from  splitting.  When  using 
this  pole  to  dust  hardwood  floors,  tops 
of  doors,  window  casings  and  picture 
frames,  put  a  dusting  cloth  into  the 
claws  and  slide  the  ring  into  place,  as 
shown   in  Fig.  2. 

The  longer  and  larger  end  of  the 
pole  is  used  as  a  clothesline  pole.  One 
end  of  this  pole  is  fitted  with  a  yoke 
made  of  No.  6  gauge  galvanized  wire, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  wire  for  the 
yoke  is  10  in.  long,  and  after  bending 
it  in  shape,  the  two  upper  ends  should 
be  2  in.  wide  at  the  top  and  2  in.  deep. 
Insert  the  straight  end  of  the  wire  into 
the  smaller  end  of  the  pole  and  set  it 
in  firmly  with  plaster  of  Paris.  The 
end  of  the  pole  should  be  securely 
wound  with  wire  to  keep  the  bamboo 
from  splitting. — C(intributed  by  Ger- 
trude M.  Bender,  Utica,  N.  Y. 


Making  Common  Lock  Less  Pickable 

The  ordinary  lock  can  be  readily 
changed  so  that  it  will  be  quite  im- 
possible to  pick  it  with  a  common  key. 


The  Small  End  Cut  from  the  Key  is  Fastened   on   the 
Pin  of  the  Lock 

The  way  to  do  this  is  to  cut  ofif  the 
small  hollow  portion  of  the  key  that 
fits  over  the  pin.  This  part  is  placed 
on  the  pin  of  the  lock  and  soldered,  or 
fastened  by  any  other  means,  so  it  can- 
not come  out  of  the  lock.  This  will 
prevent  any  ordinary  key  from  enter- 
ing the  keyhole. — Contributed  by  A.  J. 
Hamilton,  Benton,  Ark. 


To    Color   Tan    Leather    Black 

An  inexpensive  and  effective  way  to 
blacken  tan  leather  is  as  follows:  The 
leather  is  first  rubbed  with  a  10-per- 
cent solution  of  tannic  acid,  which  may 
be  purchased  at  any  drug  store.  This 
treatment  should  be  applied  and  the 
leather  well  dried.  It  should  be 
rubbed  with  a  cloth  hard  enough  to 
produce  a  polish,  then  apply  a  10-per- 
cent solution  of  iron  sulphate.  A 
chemical  reaction  takes  place  as  the 
last  solution  is  rubbed  into  the  leather, 
making  it  black.  After  this  is  dry, 
the  leather  can  be  polished  in  the 
usual  way. 


To  Prevent  Corks  Sticking  in 
Bottle  Necks 

Corks    will    always    adhere    to    the 
necks    of    bottles    containing    glue    or 
other    sticky    liquids,    with    the    result 
that    it    becomes    neces- 
sary  to   cut   or   dig  the 
cork  into  small  pieces  in 
order  to  remove  the  con- 
tents from   the  bottle. 

A  simple  and  effective 
way  to  prevent  a  cork 
from  sticking  is  to  place 
a  small  piece  of  waxed 
paper  on  the  bottle  opening  so  that 
when  the  cork  is  pressed  in,  the  paper 
will  be  between  the  cork  and  glass,  as 
shown. 


To  Remove  Rust  Stains  from  Clothing 

Many  times  when  working  around 
machinery,  the  clothes  will  come  in 
contact  with  iron  and  get  rust  stains. 
These  may  be  removed  by  using  a 
weak  solution  of  oxalic  acid  which 
must  be  applied  carefully  as  it  is  highly 
poisonous.  Sometimes  the  stain  can 
be  removed  by  washing  the  spot  in 
buttermilk,  in  which  case  rubbing  is 
necessary. 


CSmall  bits  of  onion  placed  in  a  room 
will  absorb  the  disagreeable  odors  of 
paint  and  turpentine. 


175 


Eraser  Holder 

Any  small  piece  of  steel  with  a  point, 
similar  to  that  shown  in  the  sketch, 
will  make  a  good  eraser  holder.  The 
saving  of  erasers  is  nothing  compared 
to  the  convenience  of  having  a  small 
eraser  with  a  chisel  edge  or  point 
when  delicate  erasing  is  required.  It 
is  not  clumsy  as  the  usual  chunk  of 
rubber  with  a  blunt  point,  for  the  per- 
son erasing  can  see  what  he  is  doing. 
I  use  a  leg  of  an  old  pair  of  dividers 
and  cut  my  erasers  in  four  parts  in 
shapes  similar  to  that  shown  in  the 
sketch  by  the  dotted  lines,  and  can 
use  them  easily  until  they  are  about 


A  Very  Small  Eraser  can  be  Held   on   the  Point   and 
Used  for  Delicate  Erasures 

the  size  of  a  pea.  The  friction  between 
the  rubber  and  steel,  after  the  point 
has  been  inserted  into  the  rubber,  holds 
the  two  together  nicely. — Contributed 
by  James  F.  Burke,  Lakewood,  O. 


Bleaching  Ivory 

A  good  method  to  bleach  ivory  orna- 
ments is  to  rub  on  a  solution  made  of 
a  small  quantity  of  unslaked  lime, 
bran  and  water.  The  mi.xture  should 
be  wiped  off  after  the  ivory  has  become 
sufficiently  bleached,  and  the  surface 
then  rubbed  with  sawdust  or  magnesia, 
which  gives  it  a  brilliant  polish. 


A  Soap  Shake 

To  utilize  scraps  of  soap,  make  a 
soap  shake  of  a  medium-size  baking- 
powder  can,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
Punch  holes  in 
the  can  with  an 
ice  pick  or  some 
other  sharp- 
pointed  instru- 
ment, and  attach 
a  large  wire  to  the  center,  twisting  the 
ends  to  form  a  handle. — Contributed 
by  Elizabeth  P.  Grant,  Winchester, 
Virginia. 


Ear  Repair  on  a  Bucket 

A  broken  ear  for  a  bail  on  a  metal 
pail  or  bucket  can  be  replaced  with  a 
window-shade  fastener,  such  as  shown 
at  A  in  the  sketch. 
The  liase  of  the 
fastener  is  turned 
down     flat     and 
attached       with 
screw     bolts     or 
rivets,  as   shown 

at   B. — Contributed  by  Harold  Robin- 
son, Sufifern,  N.  Y. 


Cleaning  Dirt  from  Tufts  in 
Upholstering 

A  handy  device  for  cleaning  furni- 
ture upholstering  and  vehicle-seat  tuft- 
ings  may  be  easily 
made  as  follows : 
Take  a  n  ordinary 
round  paintbrush 
and  cut  the  handle 
off,  leaving  it  about 
lVi>  in.  long,  then 
saw  a  V-shaped 
notch  in  it,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1.  Attach 
the  brush  to  the 
ratchet  screwdriver. 
Fig.  3,  by  inserting 
the  screwdriver 
blade  in  the  notch 
of  the  brush  handle, 
and  secure  it  by 
wrapping  a  strong  cord  around  the 
handle.  Place  the  brush  in  the  tuft 
and  work  the  screwdriver  handle,  as  in 
turning  a  screw.  A  few  quick  turns 
of  the  brush  will  throw  out  the  dirt 
which  is  impossible  to  remove  with  a 
straight  brush. 


FlG.l 


Fig  2 


Painting  Lead  Pipe 

The  paint  applied  to  lead  pipes  will 
chip  and  peel  off,  and  to  prevent  this 
I  first  cover  the  lead  surface  with  a 
thin  coat  of  varnish,  then  apply  the 
paint  on  the  varnish.  A  lead  pipe 
painted  in  this  way  will  retain  its  coat- 
ing.— Contributed  by  F.  Schumacher, 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


176 


Attaching  a  Vise  Jaw  to  a  Bench 

Procure  a  toothed  metal  rail  or 
rack,  A,  such  as  is  used  for  small  lad- 
der tracks,  and  mount  it  on  the  lower 


The  Rack  on  the  Lower  Guide  Rail  Provides  a  Means 
to  Keep  the  Vise  Jaws  Parallel 

edge  of  the  guide  rail  for  the  lower 
end  of  the  vise  jaw.  Provide  a  slot, 
B,  in  the  leg  of  the  bench,  through 
which  the  rail  can  run  with  plenty 
of  play  room.  A  beveled  plate,  C,  is 
attached  to  the  face  of  the  bench  leg 
at  the  bottom  of  the  slot,  so  that  it 
will  engage  the  teeth  of  the  rack. 

In  use,  when  opening  the  vise  by 
means  of  the  screw,  the  rack  will  drag 
along  the  plate,  and  stop  and  engage  a 
notch  when  the  opening  operation 
ceases.  When  it  is  desired  to  reduce 
the  opening,  it  is  only  necessary  to  lift 
the  rail  by  means  of  the  string  D.  A 
button  is  tied  to  the  upper  end  of  the 
string  on  top  of  the  bench,  to  keep  it 
handy  for  changing  the  jaw. — Contrib- 
uted by  Harry  F.  Lowe,  Washington, 
District  of  Columbia. 


Removing  Vegetable  Stains 

To  remove  stains  of  vegetables  or 
fruits  of  any  kind  from  cloth  or  wood, 
the  following  method  is  very  good: 
The  stained  piece  is  first  moistened 
with  water  and  then  placed  in  a  jar  or 
pail  that  can  be  covered.  A  lump  of 
sulphur  is  ignited  and  dropped  into 
the  jar.  Place  the  sulphur  on  a  fire 
shovel  when  lighting  it  to  avoid  burns. 
The  burning  sulphur  should  be  placed 
in  the  receptacle  on  the  side  where  the 
stain    will    be    exposed    to    the    fumes. 


The  sulphur  burns  slowly  so  that  the 
articles  will  not  be  harmed. 

After  the  sulphur  has  burned  away, 
the  jar  should  be  kept  closed  for  a  few 
minutes  and  when  the  articles  are 
remo^'ed,  the  stains  will  be  gone.  This 
is  harmless  to  try,  and  the  cloth  will 
not  be  injured  if  it  is  in  a  dry  condi- 
tion. The  articles  should  be  washed 
and  dried  as  soon  as  they  are  taken 
out  of  the  jar. 


Picture-Frame    Corner    Joints 

Very  often  the  amateur  craftsman 
comes  across  a  picture  which  he 
would  like  to  have  framed,  but  the 
difficulty  and  insecurity  of  the  ordinary 
miter  joint  for  the  corners  discourage 
him  from  trying  to  make  the  frame.  A 
very  easy  way  to  construct  a  rigid 
frame  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
The  size  of  the  frame  must  be  deter- 
mined by  the  picture  to  be  framed. 
The  width,  A,  of  the  pieces  depends 
upon  one's  own  taste. 

Four  pieces,  the  desired  length  and 
width  and  i/o  in.  thick,  should  be 
dressed  out  of  the  material  intended 
for  the  frame.  Four  other  pieces,  % 
in.  thick  and  i/o  in.  narrower  than  the 
first  four  pieces,  are  next  made  ready 
and  fastened  with  glue  and  flat-head 
screws  to  the  back  of  the  first  pieces, 
as  shown.  This  allows  %  in.  for  glass, 
picture  and  backing,  and  i/o  in.  to  lap 
over  the  front  of  the  picture  on  all 
edges. 

By  arranging  the  pieces  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  a  strong  corner  lap  is  secured. 

BACK  j« 


Square   and  Mitered  Lap  Joints    for   Making  Rigid 
Picture  Frames  in  Natural  or  Stained  Woods 

A  miter  lap  joint  which  is  not  so  strong 
is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  latter  gives  a 
mitered-joint  effect.  This  method  does 
away   with   the   use   of   the   rabbeting 


177 


plane  and  miter  box,  both  of  which  are 
difficult  to  use  with  accuracy.  Two 
screws  should  be  used  in  each  joint  to 
reinforce  the  glue.— Contributed  by 
James  Gafifney,  Chicago,  111. 


Holding  Wood  in  a  Sawbuck 

Anyone  who  has  used  a  sawbuck 
knows  how  inconvenient  it  is  to  have 
a  stick  roll  or  lift  up  as  the  saw  blade 


Hunting-Knife    Handles 

Very  artistic  handles  for  hunting 
knives  and  carving  sets  can  be  made 
by  using  disks  of  horn.  Procure  some 
cowhorns  from  a  slaughter  house  and 
split  them  with  a  saw,  using  only  the 
large  portion  of  the  horn.  The  split 
horn  is  then  heated  by  dry  heat— an 
oven  is  best — then  pressed  between 
two  cold  plates  to  a  flat  piece.  If  well 
heated,  it  is  surprising  how  easily  this 
can  be  done.  The  piece  is  then  cut 
into  squares  of  suitable  size  which  are 
marked  and  perforated  in  the  center, 
the  hole  being  a  trifle  smaller  than 
the  tang  of  the'blade.    The  tang  should 


The  Finished  Handle,  If  the  Work  is  Well  Done,  is 
Easily  Mistaken  for  Agate 

be  flat  and  a  little  longer  than  the 
desired  handle,  with  the  end  made 
round  and  threaded  for  a  nut. 

A  suitable  washer  is  placed  on  the 
tang,  which  is  then  heated  sufficiently 
to  burn  its  way  through  the  pieces  of 
horn  as  they  are  put  on  the  metal. 
"When  a  sufficient  number  of  disks  are 
on  the  tang  a  washer  should  be  slipped 
on  and  followed  by  a  round  nut.  Pres- 
sure is  applied  by  turning  the  nut  and 
repeated  heatings  of  the  disks  will 
force  them  together  to  make  perfect 
joints.  Only"  a  moderate  pressure 
should  be  applied  at  a  time. 

The  handle  is  now  to  be  finished  to 
the  shape  desired.  If  black  and  col- 
ored pieces  of  horn  are  interspersed, 
the  finished  handle  will  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  agate.  The  blade  and  han- 
dle can  be  la'cquered  and  the  ferrules 
nickelplated.— Contributed  by  James 
H.  Beebee,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 


The  Holding  Attachment  Easily  Adjusts  Itself  to  the 
Stick  of  ^Vood  Placed  in  the  Crotch 

is  pulled  back  fur  the  next  cut.  With 
the  supplementary  device,  shown  in 
the  sketch,  which  can  be  easily  at- 
tached to  the  sawbuck,  these  troubles 
will  be  eliminated.  It  consists  of  two 
crosspieces  hinged  to  the  back  uprights 
of  the  sawbuck  and  a  foot-pressure 
stirrup  fastened  to  their  front  ends  as 
shown.  Spikes  are  driven  through  the 
crosspieces  so  that  their  protruding 
ends  will  gouge  into  the  stick  of  wood 
being  sawed.  The  stirrup  is  easily 
thrown  back  for  laying  a  piece  of  wood 
in  the  crotch. 


A   New   Pail-Cover  Handle 

The  handle  of  the  cover,  instead  of 
being  attached  to  the  center,  is  placed 
near  the  edge  and  bail  of  the  pail.  On 
the  bail  and  just  above  the  handle  of 
the  cover  there  is  formed  a  loop  large 
enough    to    accommodate    the    thumb. 


The  Bail  Loop  and  the  Handle  Make  It  Easy  to 
Remove  the  Cover  with  One  Hand 

With  this  arrangement,  the  cover  may 
be  removed  with  the  use  of  but  one 
hand. 


178 


Drip-Pan  Alarm 

The  trouble  caused  by  overflowing 
of  the  drip  pan  for  an  ice  box  or  re- 
frigerator can  be  overcome  by  attach- 


f  D 


LAyt 


/^^^ife5 


■c 


The  Float  in  the  Pan,  and  Contacts  for   Closing  the 
Circuit  to  Ring  the  Bell 

ing  a  device  that  will  sound  an  alarm 
when  the  water  reaches  a  level  safely 
below  the  overflow  point.  A  device 
of  this  kind  may  be  attached  to  the 
back  of  the  refrigerator  as  shown  in 
the  sketch.  A  float,  A,  is  attached  to 
the  lower  end  of  a  rod,  B,  which  slides 
through  staples  CC.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  rod,  a  V-shaped  copper  sheet, 
D,  is  soldered.  This  makes  the  con- 
tact points  in  the  electric  wiring.  The 
battery  E  can  lie  placed  under  or  back 
of  the  refrigerator  as  desired.  The 
method  of  wiring  is  clearly  shown. 


A  Live-Bait  Pail 

Every  fisherman  knows  that  live 
bait  will  soon  die  if  they  do  not  receive 
sufficient  air.  I  have  succeeded  in 
keeping  bait 
alive  and  healthy 
by  using  a  pail 
of  my  own  con- 
struction, which 
is  provided  with 
a  compressed-air 
space  to  force  air 
to  the  surface  of 
the  water.  The 
air  space  A  takes 
up  one-fifth  of 
the  interior  at 
the  bottom   of  the   pail,   and   an   ordi- 


nary hand  bicycle  pump  is  used  to  fill 
it  through  a  bicycle-tire  valve,  B.  The 
pipe  C  from  the  air  space  extends  up 
along  the  side  of  the  pail  and  the  up- 
per end  is  bent  so  that  it  just  touches 
the  surface  of  the  water.  The  pipe  con- 
tains a  valve  to  regulate  the  flow  of 
air. 

After  the  pail  has  been  standing  for 
an  hour  or  more,  the  bait  will  rise  to 
the  top.  The  valve  is  then  opened  for 
a  few  minutes,  and  the  minnows  will 
soon  swim  around  in  the  water  as 
when  this  was  fresh. — Contributed  by 
T.  Whelan,  Paterson,  N.  J. 


A  Mouse  Trap 

After  using  various  means  to  catch 
the  mice  in  my  pantry,  I  finally  de- 
cided I  could  not  catch  them  in  the 
ordinary  manner.  Knowing  that  mice 
are  not  afraid  of  dishes  but  will  run 
all  over  them,  while  they  will  stay 
away  from  other 
things,  I  took  a 
dinner  plate,  a 
bowl  that  held 
about  1  qt.,  a 
thimble,  filled 
with     toasted 

cheese,  and  arranged  the  articles  as 
shown  in  the  sketch,  balancing  the 
bowl  on  the  thimble.  When  the 
mouse  nibbled  the  cheese,  the  bowl 
came  down  on  it,  making  it  a  prisoner. 
The  whole  was  then  dropped  in  a  pail 
of  water.  Scald  the  dish  and  bowl  be- 
fore using  them  again  to  remove  all 
traces  of  the  mouse. 


Quickly    Made    Rheostat 

A  short  time  ago  I  found  it  neces- 
sary to  melt  some  silver,  and  in  set- 
ting up  an  arc  light  to  obtain  the  heat 
I  made  a  rheostat  by  winding  wire 
around  a  large  earthenware  jar.  As 
the  jar  is  a  non-conductor  and  would 
not  burn,  it  served  the  purpose  per- 
fectly. In  winding  the  wire,  be  care- 
ful to  keep  the  coils  from  touching 
each  other. — Contrilnited  by  P.  D. 
Merrill,  Chicago,  111. 


179 


Sunlight    Flasher 

By  CLAUDE 

The  following  apparatus  is  likely  to 
be  novel,  and  certainly  very  striking 
when  erected  on  country  estates,  par- 
ticularly on  high  lands,  hillsides,  and 
along  the  seashore,  where  the  flashes 
may  be  seen  for  many  miles  out  at  sea. 

It  is  not  unusual  in  country  gardens 
to  see  a  large  hollow  glass  globe  sil- 
vered on  the  inside,  mounted  on  a  ped- 
estal, brilliantly  reflecting  the  sunlight. 
The  apparatus  described  is  an  elabora- 
tion of  the  idea.  The  drawing  shows 
in  diagram  the  general  construction, 
exact  measurements  not  being  given. 
However,  a  convenient  height  is  3V2 
to  4  ft.,  and  the  circular  frame,  carry- 
ing the  mirrors,  may  be  10  to  14  in. 
in  diameter. 

The  supporting  frame,  of  galvanized 
sheet  iron  or  sheet  copper,  may  be 
either  circular  or  hexagonal  in  shape. 
Mounted  upon  a  vertical  shaft  is  a 
skeleton  circular  frame,  carrying  a 
double  row  of  small  mirrors,  or  ordi- 
nary flat  mirror  glass,  mounted  in 
grooves  provided  for  them  ;  the  upper 
row  inclined  slightly  upward,  and  the 
lower  row  slightly  downward.  If  a 
greater  number  of  angles  of  reflection 
are  desired,  the  mirrors  may  be  smaller, 
and  arranged  in  four  circular  rows  in- 
stead of  two,  each  row  being  inclined 
at  a  slightly  different  angle. 

The  shaft  is  pointed  at  the  lower  end 
and  rests  in  a  bearing  drilled  with  a 
V-shaped  depression,  the  bearing  being 
supported  by  soldering  or  riveting  at 
each  end  to  the  inner  sides  of  the  pedes- 
tal shell.  The  upper  portion  of  the 
shaft  passes  through  a  bearing  which  is 
also  soldered  or  riveted  at  the  ends,  to 
the  inner  surfaces  of  the  pedestal  shell. 


for    the    Garden 

L.  WOOLLEY 

The  mirrors,  mounted  on  the  shaft, 
thus  are  free  to  revolve  vertically  with 
very  little  friction.  Upon  the  lower 
end  of  the  shaft  is  fastened  a  light  gear 


The  Flasher  as  It  Appears  on  the  Stand  and  the 
Details  of  Its  Construction 


wheel  of  rather  large  diameter,  and  this 
in  turn  is  geared  to  a  smaller  gear 
mounted  on  the  end  of  the  armature 
shaft  of  a  small  electric  motor  of  the 
type  that  may  be  driven  with  a  few  dry 
cells ;  the  relation  of  the  sizes  of  the 
gears  being  such  as  will  cause  the  mir- 
rors to  revolve  slowly,  when  the  motor 
is  running  at  normal  speed. 

Connected  to  the  motor  are  two  or 
more  dry,  or  other  suitable  batteries,  a 
small  door  being  provided  on  the  side 
of  the  lower  part  of  the  pedestal  to 
enable  the  batteries  to  be  replaced,  or 
turned  ofif,  and  to  give  access  to  the 
motor.  A  circular  shield  is  erected 
over  the  mirror  carrier,  surmounted  by 
an  ornamental  ball,  to  protect  from  the 
weather  and  to  provide  a  more  finished 
appearance.  A  waterproof  canvas  cover 
may  be  slipped  over  the  whole  in  rainy 
weather. 


180 


As  new  mirror  faces  at  varying 
angles  are  constantly  being  presented 
to  the  sun,  vivid  flashes  are  constantly 
occurring  when  viewed  from  almost 
any  angle  or  position  on  the  side  where 
the  sun  is  shining.  The  circular  shield 
on  top  is  supported  in  position  by  four 
metal  strips  secured  by  soldering  to  the 
shield  and  the  supporting  pedestal. 

Such  a  device  may  be  constructed 
without  much  expense,  producing  a 
most  brilliant  effect  over  miles  of  ter- 
ritory. The  small  driving  motor  may 
be  replaced  with  a  suitable  spring  or 
weight-driven  clockwork ;  or  four  hol- 


low hemispherical  metal  cups  may  be 
mounted  on  arms,  or  placed  at  right 
angles,  and  the  arms  in  turn  mounted 
upon  a  vertical  shaft  and  arranged 
above  the  mirror  carrier  and  geared  in 
such  manner  that  the  mirrors  will 
revolve  slowly,  while  the  cups  are  re- 
volving with  comparatively  high  speed 
by  the  force  of  the  wind. 

The  mounted  revolving  cups  are  sim- 
ilar in  form  to  the  apparatus  used  by 
the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau  for  meas- 
uring the  speed  of  the  wind.  They 
will  respond  to  a  good  breeze  from  any 
point  of  the  compass. 


An  Automatic   Blowpipe 

A  fine-pointed  flame  can  be  used  to 
advantage  for  certain  work,  and  the 
alcohol    flame   and   blowpipe   have   be- 


a 


come  a  necessity, 
but  these  may  be 
improved  upon 
so  as  to  make 
the  apparatus 
automatic  in  ac- 
tion and  more 
efficient  in  its 
work.  A  bottle  or  receptacle.  A,  hav- 
ing a  large  bottom  to  provide  a  sufii- 
cient  heating  surface,  is  supplied  with 
a  cork  and  a  tube,  B,  bent  at  right 
angles.  The  receptacle.  A,  is  sup- 
ported on  a  stand  so  that  it  may  be 
heated  with  a  small  lamp,  C.  The  light 
D  may  be  a  candle,  alcohol  lamp,  or 
any  flame  set  at  the  right  distance 
from  the  end  of  the  tube  B. 

The  receptacle  A  is  partly  filled  with 
alcohol,  and  the  heating  lamp  lit.  The 
heat  will  turn  the  alcohol  into  gas  and 
cause  a  pressure,  driving  it  through 
the  tube  B,  so  that  it  is  ignited  by  the 
flame  from  D.  The  flame  will  have  a 
fine  point  with  sufficient  heat  to  melt 
glass.— Contributed  by  W.  R.  Sears, 
St.  Paul,  Minn. 


Homemade  Steam-Turbine  Engine 

Select  a  tomato  can,  or  any  can  in 
which  vegetables  or  fruit  is  sold,  and 
carefully  unsolder  the  small  cap  on  the 
end  when  removing  the  contents. 
When  the  can  is  empty,  clean  it  well 
and  solder  the  cap  in  place  again. 
Procure  a  strip  of  brass,  bend  it  as 
shown  at  A  and  solder  it  to  the  can  top 
in  the  center.  Cut  a  piece  of  about 
No.  14  gauge  wire,  the  length  equal  to 
the  opening  between  the  uprights  of 
the  U-shaped  piece  of  brass,  with  about 
1/2  in.  added  for  a  small  pulley  wheel. 
The  uprights  are  punched  or  drilled  at 
their  upper  ends  to  admit  the  wire 
which  is  then  adjusted  in  place. 

Two  strips  of  tin  are  cut  to  fit  in  Ije- 


The  Boiler  is  Made  of  a  Fruit  or  Vegetable  Can 
and  the  Turbine  of  Thin  Metal  Strips 

tween  the  standards  and  are  notched  in 
the  center,  as  shown  at  B,  and  slightly 
bent  to  fit  over  the  wire  shaft.  These 
are  soldered  to  the  wire  between  the 


181 


uprights.  A  small  hole  is  punched  on 
one  side  in  the  top  of  the  can  so  that  it 
will  center  the  paddle  of  the  wheel.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  top  another 
larger  hole  is  punched  and  tightly  fitted 
with  a  wood  plug.  This  is  the  opening 
for  filling  the  boiler  with  water.  The 
can  should  be  filled  about  two-thirds 
full  and  set  on  a  stove.  The  steam, 
coming  under  pressure  from  the  small 
hole,  strikes  the  paddles  of  the  wheel 
with  considerable  force  and  causes  it 
to  revolve  rapidly.  Be  careful  not  to 
set  the  boiler  on  too  hot  a  fire. 


Electric   Switch  for   Exposing  Photo- 
graphic Printing  Papers 

The  proper  time  to  expose  a  printing 
paper  under  a  negative  should  be  de- 
termined and  the  negative  marked  for 
future  printing.  When  this  time  has 
been  found  some  means  should  be  pro- 
vided for  making  the  exposure  exactly 
the  same,  then  the  prints  will  be  perfect 
and  of  a  good  tone  at  all  times.  For  this 
purpose  the  instrument  shown  in  the 
illustration  was  designed  and  used  with 
entire  satisfaction. 

The  device  consists  of  an  ordinary 
cheap  watch,  a  standard,  or  support,  for 
an  adjusting  screw,  a  small  coil,  a  mov- 
able armature,  a  knife  switch,  and  a 
trip  arrangement.  A  neat  box  or  case, 
about  5  in.  square  and  3  in.  high,  is  first 
constructed.  A  round  recess,  %  in. 
deep,  is  cut  in  the  center  of  the  top,  to 
admit  the  watch.  The  standard  A  is 
made  of  brass,  Vs  i"-  thick  and  i/o  in. 
wide,  bent  as  shown,  and  a  i\-in.  hole  is 
drilled  in  the  end  of  the  long  arm  where 
it  will  exactly  center  over  the  pivot 
holding  the  watch  hands.  A  iVin.  rod, 
B,  is  closely  fitted  in  the  hole  and  sup- 
plied with  a  knurled  wheel,  C,  on  the 
upper  end,  and  an  L-shaped  arm,  D, 
is  fastened  to  the  lower  end.  The  end 
of  this  arm  should  be  filed  to  a  point, 
or  a  very  thin  piece  of  brass  soldered 
to  it,  so  that  the  end  will  just  touch  the 
minute  hand  of  the  watch.  The  tip 
end  of  the  point  should  be  bent  slightly 
from  the  perpendicular  toward  the  di- 
rection in  which  the  watch  hands  are 
moving,   so   that,   when   it   is   set,   the 


moving  hand  will  easily  break  the  con- 
tact. 

The  magnetic  arrangement  consists 
of  a  3-ohm  coil,  E,  mounted,  as  shown. 


Time  Switch  for  Operating  an  Electric  Light  in 
Printing  Photographic  Developing  Papers 

to  one  side  of  the  case,  where  it  oper- 
ates the  trip  levers.  The  armature  parts 
consist  of  an  L-shaped  piece  of  brass, 
F,  pivoted  at  G,  to  which  a  square  piece 
of  soft  iron,  H,  is  attached.  Two  small 
parts,  K,  are  bent  and  attached  as 
shown,  to  furnish  a  limit  stop  for  the 
piece  F  and  a  support  for  a  spiral  spring 
which  holds  the  armature  H  away  from 
the  coil. 

The  knife  switch  L  is  fastened  to  the 
bottom  of  the  case  so  that  the  handle 
will  project  through  a  slot  in  one  side 
of  the  box.  A  trip  piece,  M,  and  a 
small  eye  for  attaching  a  spiral  spring, 
N,  are  soldered  to  the  knife  switch. 
These  two  attachments  for  the  switch 
are  insulated  from  the  other  parts. 

Two  binding  posts  are  mounted  on 
top,  one  being  connected  to  one  ter- 
minal of  the  coil  E  and  the  other  to  the 
watch  case.  The  other  terminal  of  the 
coil  is  connected  to  the  standard  A. 
The  two  binding  posts  are  connected 
in  series  with  one  or  two  dry  cells,  and 
the  switch  L  is  connected  in  series  with 
the  lamp  used  for  printing. 

The  operation  is  as  follows  :  The  arm 
D,  being  set  for  a  certain  time,  the  lever 
of  the  switch  L  is  set  and  the  light  re- 
mains lit  until  the  minute  hand  strikes 
the  point  on  the  arm  D,  when  the  bat- 
tery circuit  is  closed  causing  the  coil 
to  draw  the  armature  H  and  allowing 
the  spring  N  to  open  the  switch  L. 
The  lamp  is  then  extinguished. — Con- 
tributed by  James  P.  Lewis,  Golden, 
Colorado. 


182 


How  to  Make  a  Wing  Nut 

Finding    that    I    needed    some    wing 
nuts   and   not  being  able  to  purchase 
them  in  the  size  I  wanted,  I  made  them 
from     the     ordi- 
nary    nuts.       A 


hole  was  drilled 
through  opposite 
corners  of  each 
nut  and  a  staple  made  of  wire  riveted 
in  tlie  holes  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
The  staple  should  be  long  enough  to 
admit  the  end  of  the  bolt. — Contributed 
by  Clarence  L.  Orcutt,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


Cork-Covered    Clothes   Peg 

When   screws  or  nails   are   used   to 

hang  clothes  or  other  articles  on,  run 

the  nail  or  screw 


through     a    bot- 

tle    cork     as 

shown.       The 

/"^W^    ^'"-^ 

cork     will     pre- 

(^*^ll, 

vent  the  nail  or 
screw  from  tear- 

ing    the     article 

and    also    insure 

the  cloth  against 

rust      marks. 

should 

the  article 

be  wet. 

Shaping  an  Old  Broom 

A  broom,  having  the  straws  bent  and 
out  of  shape,  yet  not  worn  out,  can  be 
fixed  up  like  new  in  the  following  man- 
ner: Slightly  dampen  the  straw  with 
water  and  wrap  with  heavy  paper,  then 
place  a  weight  on  it.  After  standing 
under  pressure  for  several  days  the 
straw  will  be  restored  to  the  shape  of 


Method  of  Straightening  the  Straws 

a  new  broom.  Paint  brushes  can  be 
treated  in  the  same  manner,  but  in  that 
case  linseed  oil  should  be  used  instead 
of  water. 


How  to  Make  a  Bolster 

The     sketch     shows    a    simple    bed 
bolster  which  I  have  made  and  which 
can  be  constructed  at  very  little  cost. 
Three    circular 
pieces    of    pop- 
lar or  pine,  10^^ 
in.  in  diameter, 
are        required. 
These    may   be 

made  in  one  cut  by  nailing  the  pieces 
together.  Then  nail  on  ten  %  by  2-in. 
strips,  53  in.  long,  or  as  long  as  the 
width  of  the  bed,  leaving  about  i/^  in. 
space  between  the  strips.  These  strips 
will  thus  go  about  two-thirds  of  the 
way  around  the  circle,  leaving  room  to 
insert  the  pillows  when  the  bed  is  not 
in  use.  Cover  the  bolster  with  build- 
ing paper  or  any  other  suitable  mate- 
rial, and  it  is  ready  for  the  pillow 
shams. — Contributed  by  C.  Martin,  Jr.. 
Chicago. 


A  Fish-Scaling  Knife 

A  useful  iish-scaliiig  and  skinning 
knife  can  l)e  made  of  an  old  broken 
hacksaw  blade.  This  must  be  at  least 
(1  in.  long  and  will  make  a  knife  with 


Scaling  Knife 

a  o-in.  blade.  Grind  the  blade  to  the 
shape  shown  and  make  a  handle  for  it 
by  using  two  strips  of  maple,  14  '"■ 
thick  and  4  in.  long.  These  are  riveted 
together  with  3  in.  of  the  blade  be- 
tween them. — Contributed  by  John  f^. 
W'aite,  Cambridge,  Mass. 


To  Prevent  Moles  from  Damaging 
Growing  Seeds 

The  food  most  liked  by  the  ground 
mole  is  the  sprouts  of  peas  and  corn. 
A  way  to  protect  these  growing 
seeds  is  to  dip  them  in  kerosene  just 
before  planting.  The  mole  will  not 
touch  the  oil-covered  seed,  and  the 
seeds  are  not  injured  in  the  least. — 
Contributed  by  J.  W.  Bauholster, 
Gresham,  O. 


183 


The  heliograph  which  is  used  in  the 
army  provides  a  good  method  of  send- 
ing messages  by  the  reflection  of  the 
Sim's  rays.  In  the  mountains  there 
are  stations  from  which  messages  are 
sent  by  the  heliograph  for  great  dis- 
tances, and  guides  carry  them  for  use 
in  case  of  trouble  or  accident.  The 
wireless  telegraph  delivers  messages 
by  electricity  through  the  air,  but  the 
heliograph  sends  them  by  flashes  of 
light. 

The  main  part  of  the  instrument  is 
the  mirror,  which  should  be  about  4 
in.  square,  set  in  a  wood  frame  and 
swun^    on     trunnions    made    of    two 


The  Heliograph  as  It  is  Used  by  Neigh- 
boring Boys  to  Send  Messages  on  a  Clear 
Day  by  Flashing  the  Sun's  Rays  from  One 
to  the  Other,  Which  can  be  Read  as  Far 
as  the  Eye  can  See  the  Light 


How  to  Make  a 
Heliograph 

By  R.  B.  HUEY 

firmly  held  to  the  frame  with  brass 
strips,  i/>  in.  wide,  and  3  in.  long.  The 
strips  are  drilled  centrally  to  admit  the 
bolts,  and  then  drilled  at  each  end  for 
a  screw  to  fasten  them  to  the  frame. 
This  construction  is  clearly  shown  in 
Fig.  1. 

A  hole  is  cut  centrally  through  the 
backing  of  the  frame  and  a  small  hole, 
not  over  %  in.  in  diameter,  is  scratched 
through  the  silvering  on  the  glass.  If 
the  trunnions  are  centered  properly, 
the  small  hole  should  be  exactly  in  line 
with  them  and  in  the  center. 

A  U-shaped  support  is  made  of 
wood  strips,  %  in.  thick  and  1  in.  wide, 


Fig. I 


Fig. 3 


Fig. 2 
Detail  of  the   Parts   for   Making  the    Mirror   and   Sight   Rod   Which   are   Placed   on   a  Base  Set  on  a  Tripod 
Top,   the   Whole   being   Adjusted   to    Reflect  the    Sun's    Rays   in   Any   Direction   Desired 


square-head    bolts,   each    i/4    in.   in   di- 
ameter,   and    1    in.    long,    which    are 


the  length  of  the  uprights  being  3i  o  in. 
and    the    crosspiece    connecting    their 


184 


lower  ends  a  trifle  longer  than  the 
width  of  the  frame.  These  are  put  to- 
gether, as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  with  small 


upper  unnailed  ends  are  spread  to  slip 
over  the  blocks  on  the  tripod  top. 
These  ends  are  bored  to  loosely  fit  over 


Fig. 9 


Fic.8 


The  Parts  in  Detail  for  Making  the  Tripods  and  the  Shutter  for  Flashing 

the  Light,  and  Diagram  Showing  the  Location  of  the  Tripods 

to  Direct  the  Light  through  the  Shutter 


brackets  at  the  comers.  A  slot,  %  in. 
deep  and  Vi  i"-  wide,  is  cut  into  the 
upper  end  of  each  upright  to  receive 
the  trunnions  on  the  mirror  frame. 
Nuts  are  turned  on  the  bolt  ends 
tightly,  to  clamp  the  standard  tops 
against  the  brass  strips  on  the  mirror 
frame.  The  cross  strip  at  the  bottom 
is  clamped  to  the  base  by  means  of  a 
bolt,  li/o  in.  long.  The  hole  for  this 
bolt  should  be  exactly  below  the  peep- 
hole in  the  mirror  and  run  through  one 
end  of  the  baseboard,  which  is  %  in. 
thick,  2  in.  wide  and  10  in.  long. 

At  the  opposite  end  of  the  base, 
place  a  sighting  rod,  which  is  made  as 
follows :  The  rod  is  I/2  in.  in  diameter 
and  8  in.  long.  The  upper  end  is 
fitted  with  a  piece  of  thick,  white  card- 
board, cut  1/4  in.  in  diameter  and  hav- 
ing a  projecting  shank  1  in.  long,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  rod  is  placed  in 
a  Yo-in.  hole  bored  in  the  end  of  the 
baseboard,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  To  keep 
the  rod  from  slipping  through  the  hole 
a  setscrew  is  made  of  a  small  bolt  with 
the  nut  set  in  the  edge  of  the  base- 
board, as  shown  in  Fig.  4. 

The  tripod  head  is  formed  of  a  wood 
disk,  5  in.  in  diameter,  with  a  hole  in 
the  center,  and  three  small  blocks  of 
wood,  1  in.  square  and  8  in.  long,  nailed 
to  the  under  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5. 
The  tripod  legs  are  made  of  light 
strips  of  wood,  %  in.  thick,  1  in.  wide 
and  .5  ft.  long.  Two  of  these  strips, 
nailed  securely  together  to  within  20 
in,  of  the  top,  constitute  one  leg.    The 


the  headless  nails  driven  part  way  into 
the  block  ends.  One  tripod  leg  is 
shown  in  Fig.  G. 

The   screen,  or  shutter,  is   mounted 
on  a  separate  tripod  and  is  shown  in 
Fig.  7.    Cut  out  two  slats,  %  in.  thick, 
21/3  in.  wide  and  6  in.  long,  from  hard 
wood,  and  taper  both  edges  of  these 
slats  down  to  j\  in.     Small  nails  are 
driven   into  the  ends  of  the  slats  and 
the  heads  are  filed  off  so  that  the  pro- 
jecting ends   will   form   trunnions   for 
the  slats  to  turn  on.    Make  a  frame  of 
wood  pieces,  %  in.  thick  and  21/0  in. 
wide,  the  opening  in  the  frame  being 
(i  in.  square.     Before  nailing  the  frame 
together  bore  holes  in  the  side  uprights 
for  the  trunnions  of  the  slats  to  turn 
in.    These  holes  are  1%  in.  apart.    The 
frame  is  then  nailed  together  and  also 
nailed  to  the  tripod  top.     The  shutter 
is  operated  with  a  key  very  similar  to 
a  telegraph  key.     The  construction  of 
this  key  is  shown  in  Fig.  7.    A  part  of 
a  spool  is  fastened  to  a  stick  that  is 
pivoted    on    the    opposite    side    of   the 
frame.      The   key  is   connected   to   the 
slats  in  the  frame  with  a  bar  and  rod, 
to  which  a  coil  spring  is  attached,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  8.     Figure  9  shows  the 
positions  of  the  tripods  when  the  in- 
strument  is   set  to   flash   the   sunlight 
through  the  shutter.    The  regular  tele- 
graph code  is  used  in  flashing  the  light. 
To  set  the  instrument,  first  turn  the 
cardboard   disk   down   to   uncover  the 
point    of    the    sight    rod,    then    sight 
through  the  hole  in  the  mirror  and  ad- 


185 


just  the  sight  rod  so  that  the  tip  end 
•comes  squarely  in  line  with  the  receiv- 
ing station.  When  the  instrument  is 
properly  sighted,  the  shutter  is  set  up 
directly  in  front  of  it  and  the  card- 
board disk  is  turned  up  to  cover  the 
end  of  the  sight  rod.  The  mirror  is 
then  turned  .so  that  it  reflects  a  beam 
of  light  with  a  small  shadow  spot 
showing  in  the  center  made  by  the 
peephole  in  the  mirror,  which  is  di- 
rected to  fall  on  the  center  of  the  card- 
board sighting  disk.  It  will  be  quite 
easy  to  direct  this  shadow  spot  to  the 
disk  by  holding  a  sheet  of  paper  6  or  8 
in.  in  front  of  the  mirror  and  following 
the  spot  on  the  paper  until  it  reaches 
the  disk.  The  flashes  are  made  by 
manipulating  the  key  operating  the 
shutter  in  the  same  manner  as  a  tele- 
graph key. 


Twine  Cutter  for  Use  at  a  Wrapping 
Counter 

for    use    at    the    wrapping 
a    drug    or    confectionery 
store   may  be   easily 
made  from  a  double- 
edged     razor     blade 
and   a  piece   of   thin 
board — a      piece     of 
cigar    box    will    do. 
Cut  the  wood  in  the 
shape  shown,  with  a 
protecting  piece  over 
the  edge  of  the  razor. 
Screws  are  turned  through  the  holes  in 
the  blade   and   into   a   support   on  the 
paper  holder  or  any  other  convenient 
place. — Contributed    by    T.    F.    Man- 


A   cutter 
counter    in 


i 


®^ 


'^.®, 


^4r 


(D 


TT 


:{l 


aghan,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Frosting  Brass 

A  very  fine  ornamental  finish,  re- 
sembling brushed  work,  may  be  applied 
to  brass  articles  by  boiling  them  in  a 
caustic-potash  solution,  then  rinsing 
in  clear  water,  whereupon  they  are 
dipped  into  dilute  nitric  acid  until  the 
oxide  is  removed,  then  rinsed  quickly 
and  dried  in  sawdust.  The  surface 
should  be  lacquered  while  the  metal 
is  hot. 


A  Cupboard-Door  Spice-Box  Shelf 

To  keep  the  spice  boxes  in  a  handy 
place  where  they  would  be  together 
and  not  behind  larcrer  articles  on  the 


The  Shelf  will  Hold  All  the  Spice  Boxes  and 
Keep  Them  Handy 

cupboard  shelves,  I  made  a  special 
spice-box  shelf,  as  shown,  to  hang  on 
the  inside  of  the  cupboard  door.  The 
shelf  swings  out  with  the  door  as  it 
opens,  and  is  made  of  two  bracket  ends 
to  which  a  bottom  board  and  front 
crosspiece  is  nailed.  The  size  of  the 
shelf  and  its  capacity  are  only  limited 
l)y  the  space  on  the  door. — Contrib- 
uted by  Austin  Miller,  Santa  Barbara, 
California. 


Starting  a  Siphon 

It  is  often  necessary  in  a  laboratory 
to  siphon  acids  and  poisonous  liquids. 
If  a  pump  is  used  there  is  always  dan- 
ger of  the  liquid 
entering  the 
jnimp  and  dam- 
aging it,  and,  be- 
sides, a  pump  is 
not  handy  for 
this  purpose.  To 
fill  a  siphon  by 
suction  from  the 
mouth,  great 
care  must  be 
taken  t  o  keep 
from  drawing  the  liquid  into  the  mouth. 
One  of  the  best  ways  to  fill  a  siphon  is 
to  procure  a  large  dropper  and  having 
pressed  all  the  air  out  of  the  bulb  in- 
sert the  end  in  the  siphon.  Releasing 
the  pressure  on  the  bulb  will  cause  it 
to  draw  the  liquid  into  the  siphon. — 
Contributed  by  Bedell  M.  Neubert, 
Newtown,  Conn. 


r.         — ^ 


186 


A  Window-Seat  Sewing  Box 

The  combined  window  seat  and  sew- 
ing box  shown  was  made  by  using  a 
shoe-packing  box   for   the   foundation. 


A    Window-Scat    "Workbox    (or    Sewing    Materials, 
Made  of  an  Ordinary  Shoe-Packing  Box 

This  was  covered  with  matting  and 
the  edges  and  corners  finished  with 
wood  strips,  I/2  in.  thick  and  stained  a 
dark  red.  Three  trays  were  provided 
on  the  inside  at  the  top  part  of  the 
box,  each  of  the  two  upper  ones  oc- 
cupying one-fourth  of  the  box  open- 
ing and  sliding  on  a  pair  of  guides 
fastened  to  the  sides  of  the  box,  while 
the  lower  tray  is  one-half  the  length 
of  the  box  and  slides  on  guides  placed 
far  enough  below  the  upper  trays  to 
allow  it  to  pass  beneath  these.  The 
three  trays  were  used  for  keeping  sew- 
ing materials,  such  as  buttons,  hooks 


Tlie   Spindles   for   the  Spools   are  Made  of   Cotters 
Fastened  with  Screws  in  the  Shelves 

and  eyes,  etc.  When  the  trays  are  all 
moved  to  one  end  it  gives  access  to 
the  lower  part  of  the  box  where  the 
work  or  mending  is  kept  out  of  sight. 
The  inside  of  the  cover  is  VA  in. 
deep    and    shelves    are    arranged    for 


thread  and  silk  spools  on  either  side, 
the  center  space  being  used  for  the 
shears,  thimbles  and  scissors.  The  lit- 
tle shelves  are  made  of  two  pieces, 
each  half  as  wide  as  the  depth  of  the 
box  cover.  The  first  half  of  the  shelf 
is  fastened  in  place,  then  a  row  of 
cotters  attached  with  wood  screws, 
whereupon  the  other  half  of  the  shelf 
is  put  in  j)l;  ce.  The  edges  of  the  cover 
are  rounded  on  the  outside  to  make  an 
attractive  seat. 

While  no  dimensions  are  necessarj', 
as  the  box  can  be  of  any  size  to  suit 
the  maker,  it  may  be  mentioned  that 
the  one  shown  is  28  in.  long,  12  in. 
wide  and  K.  in.  deep. — Contributed  by 
R.  B.  Thomas,  Lowell,  Mass. 


Cutting  a  Glass  Bottle 

It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  cut  a 
heavy  glass  bottle  or  cylinder.  Four 
methods  are  in  use.  A  carborundum 
disk  having  a  thin 
edge,  if  kept  wet 
and  rotated  at  a  high 
speed,  will  cut  heavy 
glass,  but  the  cylin- 
der must  b  e  fed 
against  the  wheel 
very  gently.  A  bet- 
ter way  is  to  make  a 
hie  mark  —  clean, 
but  not  very  deep — around  the  cylin- 
der and  heat  it  with  a  long  slender 
flame  while  slowly  rotating  the  cylin- 
der all  the  time.  It  is  very  important 
that  the  gas  flame  should  not  spread 
over  the  surface  of  the  glass,  for  it  is 
only  the  file  mark  that  should  be 
heated.  A  mere  glancing  touch  is  suf- 
ficient. Usually  the  glass  will  crack 
off  in  a  very  clean  cut. 

Sometimes  a  fine  platinum  wire  is 
wound  around  in  the  file  mark  and 
heated  by  an  electric  current.  Less 
common  is  the  trick  of  wrapping  a 
strand  of  yarn  soaked  in  turpentine 
around  the  mark  and  burning  it.  fhe 
principle  is  the  same  in  each  case.  The 
unequal  heating  of  the  glass  causes  it 
to  break. — Contributed  by  Harry  H. 
Holmes,  Richmond,  Ind. 


187 


condensation    coil    of    a    still    for    the 


To  Clean  Painted  or  Frescoed  Walls     Cooling   Tube  for  a   Laboratory   Still 

Use    a   paste   made   of   vinegar   and  A   simple  and  very  effective  device 

baking  soda  with  a  small  amount  of  to  replace  the  cumbersome  cooling  or 
salt  added.  The  ingredients  should  be 
mixed  in  a  large  dish  and  applied  to 
the  wall  with  a  cloth.  The  grease  and 
fly  specks  as  well  as  the  carbon  depos- 
its from  kitchen  smoke  are  quickly 
removed.  The  mixture  is  harmless. 
After  the  wall  is  thoroughly  cleaned, 
it  should  be  washed  with  warm  water 
and  soap,  then  dried  with  a  cloth. 
The  mixture  works  equally  well  on 
enameled  baths  and  glass  or  white 
porcelain. 


Method  of  Indenting   the 

\Valls  of  the  Glass  Tube 

and  Its  Application 

as  a  Still 


Securing  Papers  in  a  Mailing  Tube 

The  illustrations  show  two  methods 
of  securing  papers  or  photographs  in 
a  mailing  tube.  In  Fig.  1  the  mailing 
tube  A  is  shown  in  cross  section  and 
the  manner  of  running  the  string 
through  the  pasteboard  walls  illus- 
trated. The  ends  of  the  string  are 
drawn  up  and  tied  over  or  under  the 
label.  If  the  label  is  pasted  over  the 
string  or  string  ends  as  they  are  tied, 
it  makes  a  sealed  package  which  is 
rated  as  first-class  matter. 

The  second  way  is  to  run  the  cords 
in  a  cross  form  through  holes  near 
the  ends,  as  in  Fig.  2,  then  tie  the 
knots   as    at    BB.       In    each    instance. 


The  String  in  Either  Case   Prevents   the   Papers  from 
Slipping  Out  of  the  Mailing  Tube 

even  if  the  papers  fit  the  tulje  loosely, 
they  will  be  held  securely  and  can 
be  easily  extracted  when  the  knots  are 
untied. 


IG.2 


amateur's  laboratory  can  be  easily 
made  as  follows: 

Procure  an  ordinary  straight  glass 
tube  of  fairly  large  diameter  and  heat 
it  in  the  flame  of  an  alcohol  lamp  with 
the  use  of  a  blowpipe  or  in  a  Bunsen 
burner  with  a  very  reduced  flame  so 
that  only  a  small  spot  of  the  tube  is 
brought  to  a  red  heat  at  one  time. 
Then,  with  a  previously  pointed  and 
charred  stick  of  wood — a  penholder, 
for  instance — produce  a  small  recess 
in  the  wall  by  pushing  the  charred 
end  gently  into  the  glowing  part  of 
the  tube.  This  procedure  is  repeated 
until  the  whole  tube  is  thus  provided 
with  small  recesses.  The  indentations 
should  be  made  in  spiral  lines  around 
the  tube,  thus  increasing  the  surface 
that  is  in  contact  with  the  cooling 
water.  The  operation  of  making  the 
recesses  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  walls 
of  the  recesses  should  have  a  regular 
and  uniform  slant. 

The  tube  thus  produced  can  either 
be  used  as  a  rectifier  (Fig.  2)  above  a 
vessel,  for  fractional  distillation,  be- 
cause it  will  allow  the  most  volatile 
parts  to  pass  out  first,  or  as  a  con- 
denser (Fig.  3),  the  arrangement  of 
which  needs  no  explanation.  The 
amateur  will  find  it  much  easier  to 
make  this  tube  than  to  coil  a  very  long 
one. 


188 


A  Comb  Cleaner 

A  good  comb  cleaner  that  does  the 
work  easily  and  quickly  can  be  made 
from  a  worn-out  varnish  brush.  The 
brush    selected 


should  not  b  e 
over  2  in.  wide ; 
i  t  should  b  e 
thorou  gh  1  y 
cleaned  with 
benzine  and  the 
bristles  cut  to  a 
bevel,  as  shown 
i  n  the  sketch. 
In  use,  brush  across  the  comb  parallel 
with  the  teeth,  and  the  dirt  between 
them  will  be  easily  removed. — Con- 
tributed by  John  V.  Loefifier,  Evans- 
ville,  Ind. 


Scraping    Off    Surplus    Water   on   a 
Grindstone 

When  using  a  grindstone,  an  ample 
flow  of  water  is  desirable  in  order  to 
insure  good  cutting,  and  the  objection- 
able spattering  may  be  overcome  by 
fastening  a  piece  of  leather  to  the 
grindstone  frame  so  that  its  edge  will 
bear  lightly  upon  the  stone  just  be- 
low the  point  where  the  work  is  held. 
This  will  scrape  off  all  surplus  water 
from  the  grinding  surface  and  prevent 
spattering. — Contributed  by  Thos.  L. 
Parker,  Wibaux,  Mont. 


A  Paper  Drinking  Cup 

The  cup  is  readily  made  of  a  piece 
of  paper  8  in.  square.  Lay  the  paper 
on  a  fiat  surface,  turn  the  point  A  over 


2,  making  sure  that  the  new  edge  DE 
is  parallel  with  the  lower  edge  and 
crease.  Turn  the  corner  C  in  the  same 
manner,  that  is,  fold  it  over  to  the 
point  E  and  crease.  Fold  the  two 
corners  at  B  outward  and  down,  and 
crease,  and  the  cup  is  complete  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3. — Contributed  by  W. 
Douglas  Matthews,  Chappaqua,  New 
York. 

Homemade  Brush  for  Cleaning  Uphol- 
stered Furniture 

A  durable  brush  for  cleaning  uphol- 
stered furniture  can  be  made  in  the 
following  manner :  Procure  a  piece  of 
haircloth,  which  is  made  of  horsehair 
woof  and  linen  warp.  Strips  of  hair- 
cloth, cut  lengthwise  and  1%  in.  wide, 
are  laid  out  smooth  on  a  table  and  a 
strip  of  wrapping  paper,  i/o  in.  wide, 
is  firmly  glued  to  one  edge.  When 
this  has  dried,  take  out  the  warp  that 
is  not  covered  by  the  paper.  Brush 
the  fringe  of  horsehair  until  it  is 
straight    and    even,    and    before    com- 


Several  Cups  can  be  Nested  Together  and  Carried  in  the 
Pocket  or  Hand  Bag 

to  meet  the  point  B  and  crease  on  the 
dotted  line  CD,  Fig.  1,  then  turn  the 
corner  D  up  to  meet  the  line  BC,  Fig. 


Brush  Made  of  Strip   of  Upholsterers*  Haircloth   \with 
the  Warp  Removed  and  Fastened  to  a  Handle 

mencing  to  wind,  measure  G  in.  from 
one  end  and  glue  this  portion  to  the 
side  of  a  strip  of  soft  wood,  6  in.  long, 
%  in.  wide  and  tV  in.  thick.  When 
dry,  wind  the  glued  length  of  hair- 
cloth and  paper  around  the  wood  strip, 
applying  glue  to  each  separate  turn 
of  winding.  The  turns  should  be  kept 
flush  on  the  side  that  has  been  glued 
and  the  fringed  part  brushed  and 
straight. 

The  part  to  be  glued  to  the  handle 
must  be  perfectly  even  in  its  wind- 
ings and  held  firmly  in  place  while  the 
glue  is  hardening.  The  winding  should 
lie  continued  until  the  brush  is  ly^  in. 
thick. 

The  handle  is  made  of  a  piece  of 
wood,  14  in.  long,  1%  in.  wide  and  V2 
in.  thick.  Wood  that  takes  a  cherry 
or  mahogany  stain  is  preferable. 
Shape  it  about  as  shown  in  the  sketch 
and  round  off  the  edges.     The  part  to 


189 


which  the  brush  is  to  be  attached  must 
be  given  a  light  coat  of  glue.  When 
that  has  dried,  glue  the  back  of  the 
brush  to  it,  and  after  the  glue  has  hard- 
ened, glue  a  piece  of  gimp  around  the 
brush  part,  then  drive  upholsterers' 
tacks  into  the  gimp  and  wood,  %  in. 
apart.  Stain  and  varnish  the  handle. 
The  back  of  the  handle  can  be  used 
as  a  beater,  and  the  brush  for  remov- 
ing the  dust. — Contributed  by  Ger- 
trude M.  Bender,  Utica,  N.  Y. 


Removing  Calcium  Deposits  on  Glass 

A  good  way  to  clean  glass  vessels 
in  which  hard  water  is  boiled  is  to 
use  the  following  mixture  to  remove 
not  only  the  calcium  deposits,  but  also 
rust  or  sulphur  stains  that  may  be 
present.  The  solution  is  a  mixture  of 
ammonia  water  and  a  few  ounces  of 
salt.  This  should  be  placed  in  the 
glass  vessel  and  boiled  until  the 
deposits  disappear.  The  ammonia 
water  may  be  made  of  any  strength  by 
dilutinsr  if  necessary. 


A  Cold-Chisel  Guide 

When  making  long  cuts  with  a  cold 
chisel,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  guide 
the  chisel  edge  along  a  line  made  with 
a  scriber  or  pencil  and  have  a  straight 
cut.  I  find  that  it  is  much  easier  to 
use  a  guide,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
The  guide  is  made  of  a  piece  of  wood, 
about  1  ft.  long  and  fi/o  in.  wide.  A 
slot  is  cut  in  the  center,  wide  enough 
to  receive  the  chisel  edge  snugly,  and 
about  9  in.  long.    The  guide  is  clamped 


The  Guide  Makes  It  Easy 
to  Follow  along  a  Straight 
Line  When  Cutting  with 
a   Cold  Chisel 


to  the  work,  and  the  cold  chisel  slipped 
along  in  the  slot  as  it  is  successively 
hit  with  a  hammer. — Contributed  by 
G.  H.  Holter,  Jasper,  Minn. 


Care  of  Paintbrushes 

When  laying  aside  paintbrushes,  the 
usual  custom  is  to 
place  them  in  water 
and  then  forget  all 
about  them  until 
needed  again,  with 
the  result  that  the 
water  usually  is 
found  more  or  less 
evaporated  and  the 
brushes  hardened.  If 
a  quantity  of  oil,  A, 
is  poured  on  the 
water  B,  it  will  pre- 
vent this  evapora- 
tion and  keep 
shape. 


the    brushes    in    good 


Filter  in  a  Pump  Spout 

The  sketch  shows  how  to  place  an 
ordinary  sponge  in  a  pump  spout,  to 
filter  out  sand  and  dirt  particles  that 
may  come  up  with  the  water  as  it 
is  pumped.  A  wire  is  fastened  in 
the  sponge  so 
that  it  can  be 
easily  taken  out 
for  washing. 
When  washing 
the  sponge  give 
the  pump  handle 
a  few  strokes  so  that  the  dirt  collected 
in  the  spout  will  be  washed  out.  Do 
not  press  the  sponge  too  tightly  into 
the  spout,  as  this  will  stop  the  flow  of 
water. — Contributed  by  Chas.  Home- 
wood,  Waterloo,  Iowa. 


Brcwn    Stain   for    Wood 

Bichromate  of  potassium  gives  a 
lustrous,  rich,  light  to  dark  brown  stain 
on  woods.  The  crystals  are  first  dis- 
solved into  a  saturated  solution,  which 
is  then  diluted  with  water.  The  stained 
surface  needs  no  rubbing,  as  the  stain 
leaves  the  wood  perfectly  clear  for 
any  desired  finish.  The  satinlike  ap- 
pearance of  wood  treated  by  this  stain 
cannot  be  produced  with  any  of  the 
pigment  stains. — Contributed  by  Au- 
gust Meyer. 


190 


An  Egg  Boiler 

In  boiling  eggs  the  usual  method  of 
dropping  the  eggs  from  a  spoon  into 
the    boiling   water   often    results    in    a 


The  Eggs  are  Prevented  from    Becoming   Cracked  and 
All  are  Easily  Handled  in  One  Operation 

burn,  as  well  as  in  cracking  of  the  eggs 
by  the  fall.  In  removing  the  eggs 
from  the  hot  water  and  taking  one  out 
at  a  time,  no  two  will  be  cooked  alike. 
To  overcome  these  difficulties  I  con- 
structed an  egg  boiler  as  illustrated. 

A  pan  was  procured — tin  or  alumi- 
num as  desired — about  1  in.  deep  and 
51/0  in.  in  diameter,  and  holes  were 
drflled  in  the  bottom  having  dimen- 
sions as  shown.  A  handle  was  at- 
tached to  the  center  with  washers  and 
nuts.  The  small  ends  of  the  eggs  are 
set  in  the  1%-in.  holes  and  the  whole 
pan  set  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water. 
When  the  boiling  is  completed,  the 
entire  lot  of  eggs  are  removed  at  the 
same  time.  As  the  device  with  its 
load  of  cooked  eggs  is  quite  pleasing 
in  appearance,  it  may  be  set  on  a  plate 
and  the  eggs  served  from  it  on  the 
table. — Contributed  by  \V.  E.  Crane, 
Cleveland,  O. 


Removing  Black  Deposit  on  Bathtubs 

A  good  way  to  remove  the  black 
deposit  left  on  bathtubs  by  the  water 
is  to  use  a  strong  solution  of  sulphuric 
acid.  The  acid  should  be  poured  on 
the  discolored  enameled  surface  and 
washed  around  with  a  cloth.  The  acid 
should  not  touch  the  hands  so  it  is  best 
to  use  a  stick  to  move  the  cloth. 
Neither  should  it  be  allowed  to  touch 
the  metal  parts,  but  if  this  happens,  no 
harm  will  result  if  it  is  quickly  rubbed 
off  with  a  cloth  and  water  then 
applied. 


In  using  this  acid  never  pour  water 
into  the  acid,  but  always  pour  the  acid 
into  the  water. — Contributed  by  Loren 
Ward,  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 


A  Stocking-Stretcher  Form 

A  simple  as  well  as  inexpensive 
device  for  preventing  the  shrinking  of 
stockings,  more  particularly  those  of 
children,  after  they  have  been  washed, 
thus  saving  great  wear  and  tear  on  the 
fabrics  and  increasing  their  length  of 
life,  is  shown  in  the  illustration.  The 
stretcher  can  be  made  by  anyone,  a 
knowledge  of  woodcraft  or  art  being 
unnecessary.  If  used,  the  device  will 
prove  to  effect  quite  a  saving  in 
money,  labor  and  worry  in  the  course 
of  a  year. 

Place  a  new  and  unused  stocking, 
that  properly  fits  the  foot,  flat  on  a 
heavy  piece  of  cardboard  or  a  wood 
board,  if  desired,  and  mark  an  outline 
of  the  stocking  on  the  board  with  a 
pencil.  Cut  out  the  design  with  a  pen- 
knife or  heavy  pair  of  scissors  and 
smooth   the   edges.     A   design   having 


I^ 


The  Spring  of  the  Two  Parts 
Tends  to  Hold  the  Yarn  and 
Keep   It  from   Shrinking 


the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  stock- 
ing results.  Duplicate  boards  can  be 
easily  made.  Place  a  spool,  such  as 
used  to  hold  the  finest  silk  thread,  near 
the  upper  end  of  the  first  form  and  on 
top  of  this  place  the  second.  Then 
drive  a  nail  through  the  boards  and 
spool  and  clinch  it,  or  better  still,  use 


191 


a  small  bolt.  When  the  stockings  are 
washed  and  the  dampness  wrung  out 
as  well  as  possible,  stretch  them  over 
the  boards  and  hang  them  up  to  dry. 
They  will  retain  their  shape  and  are 
easily  ironed. — Contributed  by  Wm. 
P.  Kennedy,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Stick  Holder  for  a  Chopping  Block 

Having  a  lot  of  branch  wood,  from 
1/2  in.  to  1  in.  in  diameter,  to  saw,  and 
not  wishing  to  bother  with  a  sawbuck, 
I  rigged  up  a  chopping  block,  as  shown 
in  the  sketch,  by  fastening  a  piece  of 
board  to  one  side  of  the  block   with 


The  Notched  Board  Fastened   to  the  Chopping  Block 
Turns  It  into  a  Sawbuck 

small  lag  screws.  The  piece  to  be 
sawed  was  laid  across  the  block  in  the 
notch.  If  the  piece  is  held  down  on 
the  block  with  one  foot,  the  wood  is 
very  easily  sawn. — Contributed  by 
Wilfred  B.  Sylvester,  Reading,  Mass. 


Cleaning   Gold  and  Platinum 

A  good  way  to  clean  gold  or  plat- 
inum jewelry  is  to  first  brush  with 
soapsuds,  then  dust  magnesia  powder 
over  the  article  and  allow  it  to  dry.  A 
few  rubs  with  a  cloth  makes  the 
article  shine  with  great  luster.  As 
magnesia  powder  is  highly  inflam- 
mable, it  must  be  kept  away  from  fire. 

A  Twine  Spool 

The  pieces  of  twine  used  in  tying 
parcels  delivered  to  a  residence  are 
either  thrown  away  or  tied  together 
and  wound  into  a  ball  for  future  use. 
The  method  I  use  for  keeping  the 
pieces  of  twine  is  to  wind  them  over 
a  discarded  photographic-film  spool. 
The  spool  was  slipped  on  a  finishing 
nail  driven  into  the  wall.  The  crank 
for  turning  the  spool  was  made  of  a 


piece  of  wire,  bent  as  shown  and  slipped 
into  the  slot  end  of  the  spool.  One 
end  of  the  first  piece  of  string  was  tied 

P 

The  Film  Spool  as  It  is  Attached  g: 

to  a  Wall,  and  the  Crank  ^ 

Ifor  Turning  It  ^ 

I  ,„ i 


=^ 


i 

to  the  core  and  then  wound  around  it, 
the  next  piece  tied  to  the  first  and 
wound  up,  and  so  on,  as  the  strings 
were  taken  from  the  packages  from 
time  to  time.  When  a  string  is  needed 
for  any  purpose  I  always  know  where 
to  find  it,  and  it  is  easier  to  take  it 
from  the  spool  than  from  a  ball. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  Resseguie,  Susque- 
hanna, Pa. 


Reinforcing  Chair  Bottoms 

Embossed-leather-board  chair  bot- 
toms can  be  made  as  serviceable  as 
leather  in  the  following  manner:  Turn 
the  chair  upside  down  and  fill  the  hol- 
low beneath  the  seat  with  excelsior, 
soft  rags  or  fine  shavings,  then  nail  a 
14-in.  wood  bottom  over  the  filling 
with  brads.  Make  the  wood  bottom 
V2  or  %  in.  larger  than  the  opening. 
It  will  thus  not  be  seen,  and  the  seat 
will  last  as  long  as  the  chair. — Con- 
tributed by  J.  H.  Sanford,  Pasadena, 
California. 


A  Novelty  Chain 

An  inexpensive  chain  for  hanging 
painted  glass  panels,  transparencies  or 
photographs  can  be  made  by  joining 
paper  clips  together  to  form  the  links. 
A  box  of  100  clips  will  make  a  chain 
about  10  ft.  long.  Such  a  chain  can 
be  made  in  a  few  minutes  and  a  length 
of  10  ft.  will  hold  about  4  lb. 


The  Paper-Clip  Links  may  be  Joined  to  Make  a  Chain 
of  Any  Desired  Length 

If  the  chain  is  to  be  used  for  hold- 
ing photographs,  each  inner  loop  end 
is  bent  out  slightly. 


192 


Closet  Holders  for  Linen 

A  combination  drawer  and  shelf  for 
a  linen  closet  is  much  better  than  a 
shelf  or  a  drawer.  It  is  constructed 
in  the  manner  of  a  drawer  with  sides 


The  Holder  can  be  Pulled  Out  Like  a  Drawer  and    is 
as  Accessible  as  a  Shelf 

and  a  back,  the  front  being  open  and 
the  ends  of  the  sides  cut  rounding.  A 
clip  is  attached  to  the  under  side  of 
the  bottom,  near  the  front  edge,  to 
provide  a  means  for  pulling  out  the 
holder. 

Sheets,  towels,  table  cloths,  nap- 
kins, etc.,  can  be  neatly  piled  on  the 
holder  and  can  be  seen  without  dig- 
ging down  to  the  bottom.  It  has  the 
advantage  over  the  shelf  that  it  can 
be  pulled  out  without  anything  fall- 
ing oS,  and  the  linen  on  the  back  part 
can  be  easily  reached  as  well  as  that 
in  front.  The  closet  may  contain  as 
many  holders  as  is  necessary  and 
should  be  provided  with  a  door  for 
keeping  out  dust. — Contributed  by  H. 
A.  Suflwold,  St.  Paul,  Minn. 


Preserving  Dry  Batteries 

The  life  of  dry  batteries,  which  are 
to  be  used  in  wet  or  damp  places*  may 
be  considerably  lengthened  by  being 
treated   in  the  following  manner: 

The  batteries  are  placed  in  glass  jars 
a  little  wider  and  higher  than  them- 
selves. A  layer  of  dry  sawdust  is 
placed  in  the  bottom,  for  the  battery 
to  rest  on,  and  the  sides  are  packed 
with  sawdust  to  within  i/o  in.  of  the 
top.  Waterproof  wires  are  connected 
to  the  binding  posts  and  melted 
paraffin  poured  over  the  battery  to  the 
top  of  the  jar.  The  carbon  and  zinc 
terminals  should  be  marked  to  avoid 
trouble  when  connecting  several  cells 
together.       Batteries    treated    in    this 


manner  are  waterproof  and  can  be 
submerged  in  water  if  necessary.— 
Contributed  by  Olaf  Tronnes,  Evans- 
ton,  111. 


A  Cleaner  for  Brass 

In  some  recent  laboratory  experi- 
ments the  following  solution  was  found 
to  cleanse  brass  very  quickly  without 
harm  to  the  hands  or  the  metal.  An 
ounce  of  alum  was  put  into  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  and  the  solution  rubbed 
on  the  brass  with  a  cloth.  Stains  as 
well  as  tarnish  were  quickly  removed. 
The  solution  is  inexpensive  and  easilv 
prepared.  —  Contributed  by  Loren 
Ward,  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 


Homemade  Graduate 

If  a  certain  quantity  of  liquid  is  to 
be  frequently  measured  out,  it  is  best 
to  have  a  graduate 
marked  for  this  amount 
without  any  other  mark- 
ings upon  it.  To  make 
a  graduate  for  this  pur- 
pose, procure  a  pickle 
or  olive  bottle  of  the 
type  shown  in  the  draw- 
ing and  file  a  vertical 
line.  A,  on  each  side. 
These  lines  should  be  at 
least  %  in.  wide.  Place 
the  bottle  on  a  level  sur- 
face and  pour  in  the 
amount  desired  to  be 
measured.  Mark  on  each  vertical  line 
with  a  lead  pencil  and  connect  this 
mark  or  marks  with  lines,  filed  as 
shown  at  BB. — Contributed  by  James 
M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Mending  a  Break  in  Felt 

A  good  way  to  mend  partially 
broken  felt  or  a  felt  hat  is  to  hold  a 
lighted  match  under  the  break  and 
smooth  out  the  crevice  with  the 
hand.  The  shellac  in  the  felt  is  melted 
by  the  heat  and  runs  together,  mend- 
ing the  felt  in  such  a  way  that  the 
break  is  hardly  noticeable.  This 
method  may  also  be  used  to  mend  felt 
articles  in  the  laboratory. 


193 


Imitating  Ebony  on  Oak 

The  wood  is  immersed  for  48  hours 
in  a  warm  solution  of  alum  and 
sprinkled  several  times  with  the  fol- 
lowintj  mixture  :  One  part  of  losjwood 
of  the  best  quality  is  boiled  with  10 
parts  of  water,  then  it  is  filtered 
through  linen  and  the  liquid  evapo- 
rated at  a  low  temperature  until  its 
volume  is  reduced  by  one-half.  To 
every  quart  of  this  bath  are  added  10 
to  15  drops  of  a  saturate  of  soluble 
indigo  entirely  neutral  in  reaction. 

Smaller  pieces  may  be  steeped  for  a 
time  in  this  solution,  then  the  wood  is 
rubbed  with  a  saturated  and  filtered 
solution  of  verdigris  in  warm,  concen- 
trated acetic  acid,  and  this  operation 
continued  until  a  black  color  of  the 
desired  intensity  is  obtained.  The  oak 
wood  dyed  in  this  manner  is  very  simi- 
lar to  real  ebony. 


Tongue  Holder  for  a  Boy's  Wagon 

To  prevent  any  mishap  when  coast- 
ing in  a  boy's  play  wagon  fasten  the 
tongue  with  a  coil  spring  so  that  it 
will  be  kept  in  a  vertical  position.  The 
tongue  is  always  out  of  the  way  when 
it  is  not  used  for  drawing  the  wagon. 
The  spring  is  only  strong  enough  to 
hold  the  tongue,  so  that  when  this  is 
used  for  pulling  there  is  little  or  no 
tendency  of  the  spring  to  draw  the 
tongue    upward.      The    coil    spring    is 


Holder  for  the  Wagon  Tongue  to  Keep  It  in  a 
Vertical  Position  When  Not  in  Use 

fastened  with  one  screweye  in  the 
tongue  and  one  in  the  front  axle. — Con- 
tributed by  Wm.  F.  Benson,  Brockton, 
Massachusetts. 


Gluing  Small  Mitered  Frames 

The  mechanic  who  attempts  to  fasten 
a  mitered  frame  in  the  home  work- 
shop usually  comes  to  grief.     This  is 


(D  "■>-. 


CLAMPING  PIECE 


Clamp  for  Holding  the  Corner  of  a  Frame  While 
Gluing  and  Fastening  the  Mitered  Joint 

due  to  lack  of  proper  facilities  for  hold- 
ing the  frame  straight  and  out  of  wind, 
and  for  clamping  or  drawing  the  miter 
joint  together  after  the  glue  has  been 
applied.  The  little  device  shown  in 
the  sketch,  if  properly  made  and  used, 
does  away  with  the  usual  difficulties 
and  annoyances.  It  consists  of  a  tri- 
angular block  of  wood  with  raised 
strips  on  the  two  edges  that  make  the 
riglit  angle,  and  the  clamping  piece 
with  the  wood  screw  through  the  cen- 
ter on  the  long  side.  The  raised  strips 
are  made  somewhat  thinner  than  the 
frame  to  be  fastened,  as  the  clamping 
piece  should  bear  on  the  frame  and  not 
on  the  strips;  the  function  of  the  strips 
being  to  hold  the  frame  square.  The 
triangular  block  should  be  large 
enough  to  take  the  corner  of  the  frame 
and  leave  room  enough  for  the  wood 
screw  that  holds  it  in  place  on  the 
block.  Four  of  these  blocks  will  be 
necessary  and  they  should  be  used  in 
conjunction  with  pinch  dogs.  These 
dogs  come  in  dififerent  sizes  and  may 
be  purchased  at  supply  stores  or  made 
as  shown.  The  outside  of  the  legs 
should  be  straight  and  parallel  and  the 
inside  tapered  so  as  to  draw  the  joint 
together. 

When  a  joint  is  ready  to  be  glued,  a 
piece  of  paper  is  placed  on  the  block 


194 


under  the  joint  to  keep  it  from  stick- 
ing. Apply  the  glue  and  push  the  two 
sides  into  the  corner  formed  by  the 
raised  strips,  the  dog  is  then  driven  in 
lightly  and  the  clamping  piece  screwed 
down  tightly,  and  if  the  miter  has  been 
properly  cut,  a  nice  close-jointed  and 
square  corner  will  be  the  result. — 
Contributed  by  J.  Shelly,  Brooklyn, 
New  York. 


Handle  Attachment  for  a  Sickle 

For  cutting  around  flower  beds  or 
bushes  and  in  close  places  I  find  that 
an    extension    handle    for    a    sickle    is 


The  Extension  Handle 
Makes  It  Much  Easier 
to  Control  the  Sickle  in 
Cutting  around  Obstacles 


quite  an  assistance.  The  auxiliary 
handle  is  bound  to  the  sickle  handle 
with  wire  at  the  ends  and  is  further 
fastened  with  a  screw  in  the  center. 
The  arrows  show  the  directions  in 
which  the  hands  should  be  moved  in 
working  the  sickle. — Contributed  by 
A.  S.  Thomas,  Gordon,  Can. 


A  Clothesline  for  Small  Goods 

Handkerchiefs  and  small  pieces 
included  in  the  week's  laundry  are 
usually  quite  troublesome  to  hang 
with    the    larger   pieces,    and   for   this 


Line  and  Holders  are  Always  Together 
and     can     be    Washed    as    the    Clothes 


reason  I  constructed  a  special  line  for 
the  small  goods.  A  line  was  cut  to 
fit  between  two  porch  posts  and  a  hook 
made  of  galvanized  wire  tied  to  each 


end,  staples  being  driven  into  the  posts 
to  receive  them.  Three  or  four  wire 
grips  were  formed  and  attached  to  the 
line.  It  was  only  necessary  to  draw 
the  corner  of  a  handkerchief  into  the 
grip  as  it  was  wrung  out.  placing  sev- 
eral in  each  grip.  The  line  with  its 
load  was  then  carried  out  and  attached 
between  the  porch  posts.  This  made 
it  unnecessary  to  look  through  the 
clothes  for  the  small  articles.  It  also 
prevented  chilling  the  fingers  and  no 
pins  were  needed. — Contributed  by 
R.  D.  Livingston,  Hopkinton,  Iowa. 


Automatically  Controlled  Ice-Box 
Lights 

Often  the  ice  bo.x  is  placed  in  a  dark 
closet  or  some  out-of-the-way  place, 
and  it  is  almost  impossible  to  locate 
articles  already  in  the  box  or  put 
others  away  without  considerable  in- 
convenience on  account  of  the  lack  of 
proper  light.  This  difficulty  can  be 
easily  overcome  by  mounting  a  small 
electric  lamp  in  each  of  the  difi^erent 
compartments  of  the  box,  which  will 

st^; 


<at= 


tsqa 


L-(^<^<^ 


Fio  I  Fig  2 

The  Lamps  will   be  Automatically  Lighted  When 
the  Door  of  the  Ice  Box  is  Opened 

be  automatically  lighted  when  the  lid 
of  the  box  is  raised  or  the  door  opened. 
The  circuit  through  the  lamp  is  con- 
trolled by  a  special  switch  mounted  in 
such  a  way  that  its  contacts  are  open 
when  the  doors  and  lid  of  the  bo.x  are 
closed.  A  diagram  of  the  circuit  is 
given  in  Fig.  1,  which  shows  three 
lamps,  each  controlled  by  a  separate 
switch,  connected  in  parallel  to  a  bat- 
tery of  several  dry  cells.  The  lamps 
should  be  of  low  voltage  and  need  not 
be  very  high  in  candlepower.  The 
number  of  cells  needed  in  the  battery 
will   depend   upon   the   voltage   of  the 


195 


lamps.  The  voltage  of  the  battery  and 
the  rated  voltage  of  the  lamps  should 
be  approximately  the  same. 

A  special  switch  that  will  serve  the 
above  purpose  is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  It 
consists  of  two  pieces  of  spring  brass, 
A  and  B,  about  %  in.  wide,  bent  into 
the  forms  shown.  These  pieces  are 
mounted  in  a  recess  cut  in  the  jamb  of 
the  door  or  lid  in  such  a  way  that  the 
free  end  of  the  piece  A  is  held  away 
from  the  piece  B  when  the  door  or  lid 
is  closed.  When  the  lid  of  the  box  or 
the  door  is  open  the  two  springs  come 
in  contact  and  the  lamp  lights ;  upon 
closing  the  lid  or  door  the  contact  is 
broken  and  the  lamp  goes  out. 

A  good  quality  of  rubber-insulated 
copper  wire  should  be  used  in  making 
the  connections,  and  all  parts  should 
be  as  well  protected  from  moisture 
and  the  possibilities  of  mechanical 
abuse  as  possible.  It  would  be  best  to 
tape  the  lamps  in  the  sockets  with  a 
piece  of  friction  tape  so  as  to  prevent 
moisture  getting  into  the  socket  and, 
perhaps,  shortening  the  lamp.  A  short 
piece  of  brass  tubing  can  be  mounted 
around  the  lamp  to  protect  it  mechan- 
ically. Be  sure  to  place  the  batteries 
where  they  will  be  kept  dry. 


A  Bottle-Cap   Lifter 

To  remove  the  crimped  bottle  cover 
so  extensively  used  requires  a  special 
lifter,  the  cork- 
screw being  of 
little  use  for  this 
purpose.  When 
a  cap-cover  re- 
mover is  not  at  hand,  pre- 
pare a  pocketknife  in  the 
manner  shown,  and  it 
makes  an  excellent  sub- 
stitute. It  only  requires  a  small  notch 
filed  in  the  heel  of  the  blade,  which 
does  not  interfere  with  the  ordinary 
use  of  the  knife  in  the  least. — Contrib- 
uted by  John  V.  Loeffler,  Evansville, 
Indiana. 


A  Mechanical  Bicycle  Horn 

The  body  of  the  horn  A  is  made  of 
metal,  about  3  in.  in  diameter,  with  a 
screw  cover.    The  shaft  B,  to  which  is 


CAnts  may  be  eflfectively  aestroyed  by 
placing  a  coop  with  a  chicken  in  it  over 
the  hill. 


The  Horn  is  Sounded 

by  Making  Connections  with 

the  Moving  Surface  of  the  Tire 

attached  a  driving  pulley,  C,  and  a 
ratchet  wheel,  D,  is  fitted  in  holes 
drilled  through  the  diameter  of  the 
body.  The  diaphragm  E  is  clamped, 
between  the  edge  of  the  body  and  the 
cover,  on  a  seat  made  of  rubber  rings, 
F,  and  carries  a  contact  device,  G,  that 
is  riveted  to  its  center.  The  diaphragm 
should  be  set  so  that  the  contact  wiU 
touch  the  ends  of  the  ratchets. 

A  metal  cone  is  fastened  in  an  open- 
ing cut  in  the  center  of  the  cover,  over 
the  diaphragm.  The  back  of  the  body 
is  fitted  with  a  bracket  for  attaching 
it  to  the  front  fork  on  a  bicycle.  The 
lever  H  carries  an  idler  pulley  which 
is  forced  against  the  bicycle  tire  and 
the  pulley  C  by  means  of  a  cord,  J. 

Adjusting  the  diaphragm  contact  on 
the  ratchet  wheel  will  change  the  tone 
of  the  horn. — Contributed  by  P.  Mertz, 
Jamaica,  L.  I. 

Retarder  for  Plaster  of  Paris 

When  it  is  desired  to  lengthen  the 
time  of  setting  after  preparing  plaster 
of  Paris,  dissolve  1  oz.  of  citric  acid 
in  water  used  for  mixing  100  lb.  of 
plaster,  and  it  will  retard  the  setting 
for  about  three  hours. 


196 


An  Inkwell  Stopper 

A  good  way  to  keep  an  inkwell  of 
the  type  shown  in 
the  sketch  clean  is 
t  o  place  a  marble 
over  the  opening. 
The  marble  keeps 
out  flies  and  dust,  is 
easily  rolled  aside 
and  is  no  obstacle  to 
the  pen  entering  the 
well.  —  Contributed 
by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pennsylvania. 


A  Grass  Rake 

This  adaptation  of  an  ordinary  iron 
rake  for  use  on  a  lawn  was  the  outcome 
of  not  having  a  lawn  rake  at  hand. 
Two  spools,  each  li/i>  in.  in  diameter, 
were  procured  and  one  forced  on  each 
end  tooth  of  the  rake.  The  spools  were 
forced  on  the  teeth  just  far  enough  to 
allow  the  rake  to  slide  on  the  ground 


The    Spools    Prevent    the    Teeth    from    Injuring    the 
Grass  Roots  as  the  Rake  Passes  over  the  Ground 

and  prevent  the  other  teeth  from  dig- 
ging out  the  grass.  The  end  of  the 
spools  may  be  rounded  and  smoothed 
so  that  they  will  slide  easily  on  the 
ground. — Contributed  by  H.  E.  Gray, 
Montclair,  N.  J. 


A  Staple  Puller 

A  very  simple  way  to  pull  a  staple 
is  to  use  the 
claws  of  an  ordi- 
nary carpenter's 
hammer  and  a 
nail,  as  shown  in 
the  sketch.  The 
staple  can  be  re- 
moved quickly 
without  being 
bent,      and      no 

damage  to  the  material  into  which  it 

was  driven  will  result. 


To  Remove  Acid  Stains  from  Cloth 

Apply  pearlash  directly  to  the  stain, 
allowing  it  to  set  a  minute  or  two, 
then  boil  the  article  in  soap  water  for 
several  minutes.  The  method  is  harm- 
less and  inexpensive,  and  can  be  used 
by  anyone. 


Repairing  Rocker  on  a  Chair 

The  tenons  on  the  posts  of  a  rocking 
chair  being  broken  off  so  close  to  the 
rocker  that  it 
was  impossible 
to  make  the 
ordinary  repairs, 
four  window- 
shade    -    roller 

brackets        were 

used  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  The  metal  was 
straightened  so  that  it  would  lie  flat 
and  two  brackets  were  used  on  the  end 
of  each  post.  This  made  a  neat  and 
strong  repair. — Contributed  by  Chas. 
Schmidt,  Baltimore,  Md. 


Electric-Lamp  Reflector  for  a  Target 

An  ordinary  1-lb.  cofl^ee  can  may  be 
quickly  fashioned  into  a  most  effective 
reflector  for  an  electric  bulb.  The  light 
is  projected  upon 
the  target  while 
the  marksman's 
eyes  are  shielded. 
Of  course,  this 
device  can  be 
used  for  other 
purposes. 

The  can  is 
shaped  into  a  re- 
flector b  y  cut- 
ting it  open  along  one  side  with  a  pair 
of  snips,  then  following  the  circum- 
ference of  the  bottom  halfway  around 
on  each  side.  Bend  the  flaps  outward 
as  far  as  desired  and  cut  a  hole  in  the 
bottom  just  large  enough  to  insert  the 
bulb,  as  shown. — Contributed  by  Burke 
Jenkins,  Port  Washington,  L.  I. 


C Linoleum  may  be  renewed  by  apply- 
ing floor  wax  in  liquid  form. 


197 


Making  Small  Taps 

The  owner  of  a  private  workshop  has 
need  for  taps  and  occasionally  wishes 
to  make  them,  not  because  they  are 
cheaper,  but  for  the  sake  of  experience 
or  to  get  some  special  thread.  In  cut- 
ting the  flutes,  whether  it  be  by  hand  or 
in  a  shaper,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  give  the 
flutes  an  angle,  that  is,  to  cut  them,  not 
parallel  with  the  axis  of  the  tap,  but  at 
an  angle  of  5  to  15  deg.  with  the  center 
line.  This  makes  the  tap  cut  easier, 
giving  it  a  wedge  action  instead  of  just 
simply  pushing  the  metal  off.  The 
same  method  applies  to  counterbores 
and  countersinks,  which,  when  so 
made,  take  less  power  to  drive. 


Sink  a  Substitute  for  a  Dishpan 

On  special  occasions  when  company 
is  entertained  or  in  large  families,  it  is 


almost    impossible 


to  wash  all  the 
dishes  in  an  or- 
dinary dishpan ; 
in  fact,  the  large 
platters  will  not 
go  in  at  all,  so  I 
devised  the  fol- 
lowing method 
as  a  substitute 
for  a  larger  pan. 
A  tin  disk  was 
cut  from  the  top 
of  a  tomato  can  with  a  can  opener  so  as 
to  be  as  round  as  possible,  then  a  piece 
of  cheesecloth  was  folded  into  an  even 
square,  the  disk  placed  in  the  center 
and  all  four  corners  of  the  cloth  drawn 
over  to  the  center  of  the  disk.  A  nail 
was  driven  through  the  center  of  the 
disk,  to  make  a  hole,  through  which 
a  string  was  drawn  with  the  nail  and 
tied  to  it  to  form  a  loop  on  the  head. 
This  is  used  to  stop  the  sink  drain. 

When  this  is  put  over  the  drain  out- 
let the  sink  may  be  used  as  a  dishpan. 
The  same  result  could  be  obtained  a 
little  better  with  a  piece  of  an  old  rub- 
ber boot  or  rubber  coat,  but  usually 
this  material  is  not  at  hand,  and  the 
cheesecloth  will  do  almost  as  well. 
— Contributed  by  Hannah  Jennings, 
Chicago. 


How  to  Make  Small  Coil  Springs 

Procure  a  nut,  having  a  small  thread 
that  will  admit  the  size  of  the  wire  to 
be  used  in  making  the  spring.     Cut  a 


The  Threads  in  the  Nut  Will   Guide  as   Well  as 
Coil  the  Spring  Evenly 

small  notch  to  the  depth  of  the  thread 
where  the  thread  starts,  and  procure  a 
smooth  rod  that  will  pass  snugly 
through  the  threads  of  the  nut.  Shape 
one  end  of  the  rod  to  fit  a  carpenter's 
brace,  if  there  is  no  drill  chuck  at  hand, 
and  drill  a  hole  in  the  other  end  to 
admit  one  end  of  the  spring  wire. 

Bend  the  wire  at  right  angles  and 
insert  the  end  in  the  hole.  Place  the 
end  of  the  rod  in  the  nut,  which  should 
be  gripped  in  a  vise,  and  turn  the  rod, 
at  the  same  time  seeing  that  the  wire 
is  guided  into  the  notch  cut  at  the  start 
of  the  thread.  The  wire  will  follow  the 
thread  of  the  nut  and  make  a  perfect 
spring  of  an  even  opening  throughout 
its  length.  Closed  or  open  coils  can  be 
made  by  using  a  nut  having  the  proper 
number  of  threads. — Contributed  by  A. 
Spencer,  Kinston,  N.  C. 


A  Pruning-Saw  Guard 

The  double-edged  pruning  saw  with 
coarse  teeth  on  one  side  and  fine  on  the 
other  would  be  far  more  widely  used, 
if  it  were  not  for  the  fact  that  the  un- 
used edge  so  often  injures  the  bark  of 
the  trunk  when  the  saw  is  being  used. 
A  very  satisfactory  guard  may  be 
quickly  made  of  a  brass  curtain  rod 
by  prying  it  apart  slightly  at  the  seam 
and  cutting  a  suitable  length  to  fit  over 


The  Teeth  on  the  Unused  Edge  are    Covered  with  a 
Piece  of   Brass  Curtain  Rod 

the  edge,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  This 
will  cling  to  the  saw  blade  by  its  own 
tension. — Contributed  by  James  H. 
Brundage,  Katonah,  N.  Y. 


108 


Home  -  Made  Motion  -  Picture 
Camera  and  Projector 

IN  THREE  PARTS  — PART  I 

By  CHARLES  FRANK 


Motion  pictures  are  made  and  repro- 
duced by  means  of  a  camera  and  pro- 
jector, each  having  a  similar  mechan- 
ism that  would  seem  entirely  too  com- 
plicated for  the 
average  person 
to  construct  at 
home,  yet  a  cor- 
respond- 
entof  the 
N  i  c  k  e  1  o- 
deon  has  de- 
vised a  simple 
rotary  cylinder 
shutter  that  can 
be  substituted 
for  the  compli- 
cated parts. 
While  this  sim- 
ple cylinder 
shutter  is  not 
claimed  to  be 
non  -  infringing 
on  existing  patents,  yet,  as  it  has  no 
commercial  value,  there  would  be  no 
objection  on  this  score.  The  instru- 
ments described  are  nothing  more  than 
toys,  and  if  the  amateur  photographer 
can  secure  a  few  dozen  feet  of  ani- 
mated photographs  about  the  home 
that  are  dear  to  his  heart,  and  repro- 
duce them  on  a  screen,  it  will  have 
served  its  purpose.  The  camera  and 
projector  described  uses  standard  film, 
1%   in.   wide,   with   perforations  every 

tV  in. 

The  Camera 

The  ordinary  hand  camera  for  mak- 
ing  still   pictures   consists   of   a   light- 


Fig.  1 


tight  box  with  a  lens  at  one  end  and  a 
sensitized  plate  or  film  at  the  other. 
The  motion-picture  camera  (Fig.  1)  is 
nothing  more  than  a  hand  camera  with 
a  mechanical  device  for  stepping  a  long 
roll  of  film  through  a  space  in  the  focal 
plane  of  the  lens  at  a  speed  of  about  16 
pictures  a  second,  and  stopping  the 
film  long  enough  to  make  the  requisite 
exposure  on  each  division.  The  first 
thing  to  consider  is  the  lens.  A  lens 
having  ordinary  speed  for  a  hand  cam- 
era, and  one  with  about  3-in.  focal 
length  will  give  satisfactory  results. 
If  one  does  not  care  to  purchase  a  lens, 
a  small  l^ij-in.  or  2-in.  reading  glass  can 
be  used,  if  it  is  stopped  down,  or  a  lens 
may  be  taken  from  a  hand  camera. 
The  width  of  the  camera  from  front  to 
back  (W,  Fig.  2)  must  be  determined 
by  the  focal  length  of  the  lens.  The 
dimensions  given  in  the  drawing  are 
only  approximate,  and  they  can  be 
changed  if  the  camera  is  to  be  used  in 
making  an  extra  long  film  negative. 

The  roll  of  unexposed  film  (A,  Fig. 
2)  is  placed  on  a  small  shaft  between 
U-shaped  bearings,  made  of  sheet  metal 
and  screwed  to  the  top  board  of  the 
camera.  The  lens  B  is  set  in  the  front 
board  at  a  point  4  in.  below  the  top.  If 
a  large  roll  of  film  is  to  be  used,  this 
distance  must  be  greater  to  allow  room 
for  the  film  roll  in  the  top  of  the  cam- 
era. The  cylinder  C.  which  acts  as  a 
shutter  and  intermittent  movement,  re- 
volves directly  behind  and  in  the  path 
of  the  light  passing  through  the  lens. 
Partitions,  DD,  are  set  in  grooves  cut 


199 


in  the  boards,  forming  the  sides  of  the 
camera.  These  partitions  are  to  keep 
the  light,  which  may  be  diffused  from 
the  lens,  from  striking  the  film  at  either 
side  of  the  shutter,  and  at  the  same 
time  acting  as  guides  for  the  film  at  the 
rear  end  of  the  camera.  Their  edges 
at  the  back  are  covered  with  black  vel- 
vet. The  back  of  the  box  is  a  hinged 
door,  rabbeted  on  all  edges,  and  open- 
ing at  the  side  to  allow  the  insertion 
and  removal  of  the  film,  and  also  act- 
ing as  a  guide  for  the  film  when  closed. 
A  strip  of  black  velvet,  E,  a  little  wider 
than  the  film,  is  pasted  to  the  inside 
surface  of  the  door,  so  that  it  bears 
lightly  against  the  back  edges  of  the 
partitions  DD.  The  film  passes  be- 
tween the  edges  of  the  partitions  and 
the  velvet  on  the  door  with  some  fric- 
tion, which  keeps  it  from  moving  ex- 
cept when  pulled  through  with  the 
roller  shutter.  A  wire-staple  guide, 
F,  is  fastened  in  the  lower  partition, 
through  which  the  end  of  the  film  is 
passed  before  closing  the  door.  The 
film  as  it  is  run  through  drops  in  folds 
in  the  bottom  of  the  bo.x. 

The  rotary  cylinder  shutter  is  the 
heart  of  the  machine  and  should  be 
made  well  and  strictly  according  to  the 
dimensions.  The  detail  of  this  part  is 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  A  rectangular  open- 
ing is  mortised  through  one  of  its 
diameters  to  admit  light  on  the  film 
when  in  certain  positions.  The  cylin- 
der is  of  wood  with  a  i/4-in.  steel  rod 
inserted  in  the  center  of  each  end  for 
axles.  A  small  grooved  pulley  (G,  Fig. 
2),  about  1  in.  in  diameter,  is  fastened 
to  the  outer  end  of  one  of  these  rods. 
The  cylinder  is  revolved  by  a  round 
belt  from  a  drive  wheel,  H,  3  or  3i/L'  in. 
in  diameter  and  turned  by  the  aid  of  a 
crankpin.  Owing  to  the  backward  ro- 
tation of  the  cylinder,  the  belt  must  be 
crossed  between  the  drive  wheel  H, 
and  the  pulley  G.  The  projections  or 
sprockets.  Fig.  3,  must  be  accurately 
set  at  a  distance  of  %  in.  from  the  90- 
deg.  point,  using  the  center  of  the  mor- 
tised hole  as  a  base.  These  projec- 
tions can  be  pins  or  small  staples,  but 
they  must  not  be  over  tu  in.  in  size. 
The  base  of  the  sprockets  must  fit  the 


hole  in  the  film  snugly,  but  the  points 
should  be  slightly  rounding,  so  that 
they  will  easily  enter  the  perforations. 
When  the  upper  sprocket,  which  is  ap- 
proaching the  film,  engages  a  perfora- 


Fig.  2  — Details  of  Camera 

tion,  just  below  the  upper  partition,  it 
will  carry  the  film  downward  until  the 
sprocket  disengages  from  the  perfora- 
tion at  the  lower  partition.  The  dis- 
tance of  travel  must  be  exactly  %  in., 
as  that  is  the  height  of  each  picture. 
The  cylinder  requires  some  adjustment 
to  meet  this  condition ;  therefore  the 
axles  are  made  to  revolve  in  holes 
bored  in  two  strips  of  wood,  JJ,  which 
can  be  moved  forward  or  backward  to 
obtain  the  proper  distance  from  the  film. 
To  allow  for  this  movement,  the  axles 
pass  through  slots  cut  in  the  sides  of 
the  camera  box  instead  of  round  holes. 
The  strips  JJ  are  fastened  temporarily 
and  when  the  correct  position  for  the 
cylinder  is  found,  they  are  permanently 
fastened  to  the  box.  Grooves,  K,  are 
cut  through  the  black  velvet  and  into 
the  back  of  the  door  to  allow  a  space 
for  the  sprockets  to  pass  through  freely. 
The  inside  of  the  box  should  be  painted 
a  dead  black,  and  black  paper  pasted 
on  all  corners  and  joints.    Black  velvet 


200 


is  pasted  in  the  rabbet  of  the  door  to 
insure  a  light-tight  joint  when  the  door 
is  closed.  The  cylinder  shutter  is  also 
painted  a  dead  black  inside  and  out. 
The  cylinder  in  revolving  exposes  the 
-15"- 


i^s 


-21- 


Fig.  3  — Details  of  Shutter 

film  immediately  behind  it  through  the 
mortised  hole.  The  sprockets  or  cylin- 
der does  not  touch  the  film  while  the 
exposure  is  being  made,  but  as  the  hole 
turns  toward  a  perpendicular  position, 
the  sprockets  catch  the  perforations  of 
the  film  and  it  moves  down  %  in.  Just 
as  soon  as  the  sprockets  disengage  the 
film,  the  shutter  exposes  the  next  sec- 


tion of  film,  and  so  on  as  rapidly  as 
the  cylinder  is  turned,  but  the  average 
should  be  about  16  pictures  per  second. 
A  view  finder  must  be  supplied  so 
the  field  covered  by  the  lens  can  be  de- 
termined. Such  a  finder  is  made  of 
two  pieces  of  metal,  L  and  M,  bent  L- 
shaped  and  fastened  to  the  top  of  the 
camera  box.  One  of  the  pieces  (L) 
has  a  rectangular  opening  1  in.  wide 
and  %  in.  high,  and  the  other  (M)  is 
drilled  with  a  %-in.  drill,  the  distance 
between  the  two  pieces  being  the  focal 
length  of  the  lens.  One  eye  applied 
to  the  %-in.  hole  in  the  piece  JM  will 
see  through  the  rectangular  hole  in  the 
piece  L  about  the  same  field  as  covered 
by  the  lens.  The  pieces  should  be  ac- 
curately placed  and  fastened  on  the 
box  when  the  camera  is  set,  so  tliat  the 
lens  will  throw  the  same  portion  of  the 
picture  on  the  space  where  the  film 
passes  as  will  be  seen  through  the 
finder. 


(  To  be  continued) 


A  Swimming  Raft 

Swimming  is  learned  only  by  expe- 
rience and  to  get  this  experience  one 
must  not  be  afraid  to  trust  himself  in 
the  water.  This  is  sometimes  accom- 
plished by  the  use  of  a  swimming  raft 
or  water  wings.  As  the  water  wings 
need  to  be  inflated  frequently,  I  made 
a   swimming   raft   instead,   in   the   fol- 


Plan  of  Raft 


lowing  manner:  Two  logs,  about  6  or 
7  ft.  long  and  about  8  in.  in  diameter, 
were  fastened  together  with  large 
nails,  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  and 


a  piece  of  burlap  or  other  strong  ma- 
terial was  nailed  across  the  center  with 
slack  enough  for  it  to  be  partially  sub- 
merged. 

The  middle  of  the  band,  its  depth, 
etc.,  can  be  adjusted  to  suit  the  user. 
Be  sure  to  remove  all  the  roughness  of 
the  logs  and  boards  with  a  rasp  and 
sandpaper. — Contributed  by  W.  P. 
Johnston,  Sumner,  111. 


Removing  Finger  Marks  on  Books 

Dampen  a  piece  of  wash  leather  and 
use  it  to  rub  pumice  on  the  spot  to  be 
cleaned.  Brush  off  the  pumice  and 
rub  again  with  a  piece  of  dry  wash 
leather. 


Tightening  a  Tennis  Net 

Anyone  who  has  ever  played  tennis 
will  readily  see  the  advantage  of  the 
net-tightening  device  shown,  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  old  method  of  pulling  the 
net  tight  by  hand.  All  that  is  neces- 
sary to  make  the  device  is  1  ft.  of  or- 


201 


dinary  gas  or  water  pipe,  8  or  10  in.  of 
y2-in.  iron  bar,  and  two  twenty-penny 
nails.  The  posts  g-enerally  used  are  6 
by  6  in.  About  4  in.  from  the  top  of 
the  post  bore  a  1-in.  hole,  parallel  with 
the  direction  the  rope  is  to  run.  On 
the  inside  surface  of  the  post  bore  four 
%-in.  holes. 

Drill  a  V2-in.  hole  1  in.  from  one  end 
of  the  pipe,  and  a  i/4-in.  hole  1  in.  from 
the  other  end.  Put  the  iron  bar  in  the 
y<y-vn.  hole,  tie  the  rope  around  the  pipe 
and  bar  at  A  and  wind.  With  the 
leverage  of  the  iron  bar  one  can  readily 
pull  the  net  to  any  desired  tightness. 
After  the  net  is  drawn  in  position,  put 
one  of  the  nails  through  the  Vi-in.  hole 


Tightener  on  Post 


in  the  pipe  and  the  other  in  one  of  the 
14-in.  holes  in  the  post. — ^Contributed 
by  Wm.  S.  Looper,  Gainesville,  Ga. 


Holding  Fishing-Rod  Joints  Together 

The  addition  of  two  or  three  screw- 
eyes  properly  placed  in  a  jointed  fish- 
ing rod  of  the  ordinary  type  will  prove 
decidedly  worth  while,  as  the  joints  will 
often  pull  out  easily  when  they  should 
not  and  stick  tightly  when  they  should 
pull  apart. 

Assemble  the  rod  and  bore  small 
holes  through  the  brass  sockets  into  the 
joints  as  shown  in  Fig.  1  and  place 
some  screweyes  into  the  holes.  Mark 
the  joints  so  that  the  holes  in  the  joints 
and  holes  in  the  brass  sockets  will  al- 
ways be  in  the  same  position. 

The  screweyes  prevent  the  joints 
from  pulling  out  when  an  effort  is  made 
to  free  the  line  from  some  object  in 
which  it  has  become  entangled.    They 


also  act  as  guides  for  the  line.  Should 
the  joints  fit  too  tightly,  scrape  the 
ends  until  they  slip  easily  into  the  sock- 


F1G.2 

Screweye  in  Joint 


ets,  as  the  screweyes  will 
properly,  even  if  they  fit  a 
after  the  scraping. 


hold 
little 


them 
loose 


Roller  Skate  on  a  Bicycle  Wheel 

When  the  front  tire  on  a  bicycle 
will  not  hold  and  needs  to  be  taken  to 
a  repair 
shop,  strap 
or  tie  a  roller 
skate  to  the 
rim  of  the 
wheel,      as 

shown,      and  (^o; \^ 

jio  trouble 
will  be  experienced  in  wheeling  or 
riding  the  bicycle  to  the  shop. — Con- 
tributed by  K.  Chase  Winslow,  Eliza- 
beth, N.  J. 


Rope  Oarlocks 

Having  considerable  trouble  because 
of  breaking  of  oarlocks,  I  devised  a  suc- 
cessful way  by  which  the  difficulty  was 


Piece  of  Rope  in  Place 

overcome.  The  device  is  extremely 
simple  and  is  nothing  more  than  a 
piece  of  rope  fastened  to  the  gunwale 
as  shown  in  the  sketch. — Contributed 
by  Arthur  L.  Chetlain,  Rogers  Park, 
Illinois. 


202 


Home-Made   Motion -Picture  Camera  and  Projector 

IN  THREE  PARTS— PART  II 


Developing 

After  havin.tr  exposed  the  film  in  the 
camera,  the  next  steps  are  to  develop 
and  make  a  positive  film  from  the  nega- 
tive. The  developing  and  exposing  of 


Fig.  4  — Cross  Arms  with  Pins 

the  film  for  the  positive  are  the  same 
as  in  ordinary  photography  for  making 
negatives  and  lantern  slides,  the  only 
difference  being  in  the  apparatus  for 
handling  the  long  films.  One  of  the 
simplest  ways  of  developing  a  long 
film  is  to  use  a  large  tray  in  connection 
with  a  cross  arm  having  upright  pins 
around  which  the  film  is  wrapped  in 
a  continuous  spiral.  A  film  100  ft.  long 
would  require  a  tray  18  by  22  in.,  with 
pins  set  in  the  cross  arm  about  %  in. 
apart.  This  method  of  developing  is 
shown  in  Fig.  4. 

A  long  film  can  be  developed  in  a 
small  tray  by  using  two  flanged  wheels 
or  spools  mounted  on  a  frame  (Fig.  5) 
that  holds  them  directly  above  the 
liquid  in  the  tray.  The  spools  have  a 
wood  core  or  center  with  metal  sides  of 
sufficient  diameter  to  take  in  the  length 
of  film  to  be  developed.  One  end  of 
the  undeveloped  film  is  attached  to  one 
spool  and  then  wound  upon  it,  then  the 
other  end  is  passed  through  the  guides, 
gelatine  side  down,  and  fastened  to  the 
other  spool.  The  film  is  first  run 
slowly  through  a  water  bath  until  it  is 
thoroughly  saturated,  then  it  is  passed 
through  the  developing  solution  again 
and  again  until  the  proper  density  is  se- 
cured. The  trays  can  be  easily  re- 
moved and  others  substituted  for  fixing", 
washing,  hardening  and  soaking,  the 
film  being  passed  through  each  solution 
in  the  same  manner.     Before  develop- 


ing either  negative  or  positive  film, 
small  test  strips  should  be  run  through 
the  solution  so  that  the  proper  timing 
and  treating  of  the  full-length  strip  will 
correspond  to  the  test  strip. 

A  reel  should  be  prepared  for  drying 
the  film.  This  can  be  made  of  small 
slats  placed  around  two  disks  to  form 
a  drum  (Fig.  (;)  about  iVi;  ft.  in  diame- 
ter and  gi/o  ft.  long.  After  the  film  has 
been  passed  through  the  various  solu- 
tions and  is  ready  for  drying,  it  is 
wound  spirally  around  on  the  slats  with 
the  gelatine  side  out,  and  the  whole 
hung  up  to  dry. 

Printing 

The  printing  to  make  the  transpar- 
ency is  accomplished  by  a  very  simple 
arrangement.  The  negative  and  posi- 
tive films  must  be  drawn  through  a 
space  admitting  light  while  their  gela- 
tine surfaces  are  in  close  contact.  A 
box  may  be  constructed  in  several 
ways,  but  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  7  il- 
lustrates the  necessary  parts  and  their 
relative  positions. 

The  sprocket  A  is  placed  directly 
back  of  the  opening  B  v/hich  may  be 
regulated  to  admit  the  proper  light. 
The  sprocket  can  be  purchased  from  a 


Developing  Long  Films 


moving-picture  stock  house  cheaply, 
but  if  the  builder  so  desires,  one  can  be 
made  from  wood  turned  up  about  1  in. 


203 


in  diameter,  or  so  that  the  circumfer- 
ence will  receive  sprockets  at  points  t'V 
in.  apart.  The  sprockets  are  made  of 
metal  pins  driven  into  the  wood.  Two 
rows  of  them  are  placed  around  the 
wood  cylinder  about  iVs  in-  apart. 

The  cylinder  is  provided  with  a  small 
metal  shaft  at  each  end  which  turns 
in  round  holes  or  bearings  in  the  sides 
of  the  box.  One  of  the  shafts  should 
project  through  the  side  of  the  box  and 
have  a  grooved  wheel,  C,  attached. 
The  sprocket  cylinder  is  driven  by  a 
smaller  grooved  wheel  or  pulley,  D,  to 
which  a  crank  is  attached  for  turning. 
The  relative  sizes  of  these  wheels  are 
determined  by  the  speed  of  the  expos- 
ure and  the  kind  of  light  used.  A  3-in. 
or  4-in.  wheel  on  the  cylinder  sprocket 
shaft,  driven  by  a  pulley  about  1  in.  in 


Fig.  6— Drying  Reel 

diameter,  will  be  suitable  under  ordi- 
nary circumstances.  The  opening  B 
may  be  adjusted  by  two  metal  slides 
which  fit  tightly  in  metal  grooves  fast- 
ened to  the  wood  front.  The  metal 
grooves  and  slides  can  be  made  of  tin 
and  painted  a  dead  black.  The  films 
after  passing  over  the  sprocket,  fall 
into  the  bottom  of  the  box,  or,  if  very 
long  films  are  to  be  made,  the  instru- 
ment can  be  used  in  the  dark  room  and 
the  light  admitted  only  to  the  opening 
B,  then  the  ends  can  be  dropped  into  a 
basket  or  other  receptacle  at  the  bot- 
tom and  the  unprinted  portions  carried 
on  reels  above  the  box. 

The  speed  of  the  exposure  and  the 
width  of  the  opening  B  can  be  deter- 
mined by  making  test  strips.  This  can 
be  done  by  setting  the  opening  B  to  a 
certain  width  and  turning  the  crank  for 


Fig.  7  —  Printing  Machine 

10  or  15  seconds  and  counting  the  num- 
ber of  revolutions.  The  proper  expos- 
ure can  be  easily  attained  by  this 
method. 

(  To  be  continued) 


An  Emergency  Clamp 


an  extra  large  guitar 


While  makint 
I  did  not 
have  clamps 
large  enough 
to  hold  the 
top  and  bot- 
tom onto  the 
sides  while 
gluing,  so  I 
fastened 
three  pieces 
of  wood  to- 
gether, each 
piece  being 
about  1  by  3 
in.,  as  shown 
in  the  sketch. 
Then  I  bored 
holes  in 
both  top  and 
bottom 

pieces  and  inserted  a  piece  of  soft  wire 
in  the  form  of  a  loop,  which,  when 
twisted,  drew  the  ends  of  the  clamp 
together. — Contributed  by  Geo.  E. 
Walsh,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


CWhile  camping,  remember  a  hot 
stone  wrapped  up  makes  an  excellent 
substitute  for  a  hot-water  basr. 


204 


Home-Made  Motion-PicUire  Camera  and  Projector 

IN  THREE  PARTS  — PART  III 


The  Projector 

The  film  positives  are  projected  on 
a  screen  with  the  same  kind  of  a  lan- 
tern as  is  used  for  lantern  slides,  with 
the  addition  of  the  device  for  stepping 
the  film  through,  one  picture  at  a  time. 


Fig.  8 — Projector  Complete 

and  flashing  light  on  each  picture  as 
it  remains  stationary  for  an  instant. 
The  projector  (Fig.  8)  is  composed  of 
a  lamp  house,  a  condensing  lens  to 
make  the  beam  of  light  converge  up- 
on the  film  for  illuminating  it  evenly, 
a  film-stepping  device,  and  a  project- 
ing lens  for  throwing  the  enlarged  pic- 
ture of  the  illuminated  film  upon  a 
screen. 


The  lamp  house  is  made  of  ordinary 
stovepipe  metal  and  the  dimensions 
given  in  the  sketch  are  for  a  size  suit- 
able to  use  an  acetylene  or  gas  burner. 
The  metal  is  laid  out  as  shown  by  the 
pattern  (Fig.  9)  and  bent  on  the  dot- 
ted lines  to  form  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  house. 
The  joint  may  be  riv- 
eted, or,  if  taken  to 
a  tinshop,  lock-seamed. 
The  cover  is  cut  out  as 
shown,  the  sides  and  ends 
having  bent  holes  which 
are  covered  on  the  inside 
with  perforated  sheet 
metal.  A.  In  order  to  de- 
flect the  light,  a  small  an- 
gular strip,  B,  is  riveted 
on  so  that  its  upper  portion  will  cover 
the  holes  and  allow  a  space  for  the  heat 
to  pass  out.  The  cover  may  be  hinged 
or  set  on  like  a  cover  on  a  can.  The  lamp 
house  is  attached  to  a  sliding  wood  base 
for  adjusting  its  position  on  the  base- 
board. 

The  condensing  lenses  are  fixed  into 
a  metal  barrel  having  a  tapering  end. 
This  can  be  made  of  the  same  material 


Fig.  9 — Details  of  the  Lamp  House 


205 


as  used  in  the  lamp  house.  The  parts 
can  be  rolled  and  a  lock  joint  made  at 
a  local  tinshop,  or  the  pieces  shaped 
over  a  wood  form  and  riveted.  Small 
L-shaped  pieces  are  riveted  to  the  in- 


of  the  required  size,  or  a  lens  of  12-in. 
focus  enlarEjinsj  a  1-in.  film  to  about  6 
ft.  at  a  distance  of  24  ft.  A  regular 
lens  fitted  in  a  metal  tube  can  be  pur- 
chased   from    a    moving-picture    stock 


Fig.  10  —  Details  of  the  Lamp,  Stepping  Device  and  Base 


ner  surfaces  to  hold  each  lens  in  place. 
A  rim  is  turned  up  on  the  back  end  of 
the  metal  tube  for  attaching  the  lens 
barrel  to  the  lamp  house. 

An  ordinary  mantle  or  acetylene 
burner  is  attached  to  a  gas  pipe  that 
has  for  its  base  a  drop  elbow  fastened 
to  a  sliding  board  similar  to  the  slide  of 
the  lamp  house  on  the  baseboard.  A 
good  reflector  should  be  attached  to  a 
standard  just  back  of  the  burner.  The 
standard  is  also  fastened  to  the  slid- 
ing board.  The  proper  distance  of  the 
light  from  the  condensing  lens  can  be 
easily  set  by  this  adjusting  device. 
This  arrangement  is  shown  in  Fig.  10 
in  the  diagram  entitled  "lamp  parts." 

The  device  for  stepping  the  film  is 
a  duplicate  of  the  one  used  in  the  cam- 
era as  described  in  Part  I,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  lens.  The  lens  should 
be  about  2  in.  in  diameter  with  such 
a  focal  length  that  will  give  a  picture 


house  at  a  reasonable  price.  The  box 
is  made  up  similar  to  the  camera  box, 
but  with  a  metal  back  instead  of  the 
wood.  The  intense  heat  from  the  light 
would  quickly  burn  the  wood  and  for 
this  reason  the  light  should  be  kept 
from  the  film  while  it  is  not  in  motion. 
The  projecting  lens  barrel  should  be 
fitted  snugly,  yet  loose  enough  for 
focusing. 

The  baseboard  is  cut  as  shown  and 
the  film-stepping  device  is  firmly  at- 
tached to  the  small  end.  The  sides  ex- 
tend over  the  baseboard  and  are  fas- 
tened with  screws  and  braced  with 
metal  brackets.  The  slot  in  the  small 
end  of  the  baseboard  is  for  the  film  to 
pass  through.  The  film  should  have  a 
tension  the  same  as  in  the  camera  with 
velvet  placed  on  the  edges  of  the  par- 
titions. It  is  well  to  have  a  guide  be- 
low the  roller  shutter  to  keep  the  film 
from  encircling  the  roller  as  it  turns. 


206 


Homemade  Graining  Tools 

Desiring  to  do  some  fancy  graining 
and  having  no  tools  at  hand,  I  hastily 
made  two  of  them  from  pieces  of  gar- 


Tools  Cut  from  Pieces  of  Garden  Hose  for  Making 
Grains  of  Wood  in  Painted  Surfaces 

den  hose,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  Two 
pieces  were  cut  from  the  hose,  each  5 
in.  long,  and  the  first  one  made  as  fol- 
lows: A  small  hole,  about  V^  in.  in 
diameter,  was  cut  through  the  outside 
layer  of  rubber  with  a  sharp  knife  at 
two  points  on  opposite  sides  of  the  hose 
and  exactly  in  the  center  for  length. 
Around  these  holes  rings  of  the  rubber 
were  cut  out,  or  rather  peeled  off  from 
the  canvas  part,  the  rings  being  {',-  in. 
wide,  and  the  grooves,  or  parts  re- 
moved, also  tV  in.  wide.  The  hose  will 
then  appear  as  shown  in  the  upper 
left-hand  corner  of  the  sketch. 

To  use  this  grainer,  first  paint  the 
ground  color,  using  a  buff  tint  for  imi- 
tation light  oak,  and  allow  it  to  dry, 
then  put  on  a  light  coat  of  raw  sienna, 
and  while  wet,  take  the  prepared  hose 
and  draw  it  slowly  over  the  length  of 
wood,  at  the  same  time  revolving  the 
grainer  slowly. 

The  other  piece  of  hose,  at  the  other 
corner,  is  made  to  take  the  place  of  a 
steel  graining  comb.  The  rubber  is  cut 
away  lengthwise,  leaving  four  seg- 
ments, about  4  in.  wide,  on  four  sides 
of  the  hose.  These  segments  are  then 
notched  out,  like  threads  on  a  tap,  each 
segment  having  a  different  number  to 
the  inch.  These  are  used  in  the  same 
manner  as  steel  combs. — Contributed 
by  A.  H.  Waychoff,  Koenig,  Colo. 


Needle  for  Repairing  Screens 

In  attaching  patches  to  window  or 
door  screens,  the  work  requires  a  con- 
tinual shifting  from  one  side  to  the 
other,  or  two  persons,  one  on  each  side, 
must  be  present  to  pass  the  threaded 
needle  back  and  forth.  The  operation 
can  be  easily  simplified  by  using  a 
bent  needle,  which  has  been  heated 
and  suitably  shaped.  The  point  oi 
this  needle  can  always  be  made  to  re- 
turn to  the  side  from  which  it  entered, 
thereby  avoiding  the  need  of  an  as- 
sistant or  the  tiresome  shifting  back 
and  forth. — Contributed  by  G.  Jaques, 
Chicago,  111. 


An  Emergency  Tourniquet 

A  valuable  addition  to  any  shop  medi- 
cine cabinet  is  the  tourniquet.  A  device 
that  will  answer  _ 

the  purpose  of 
the  tourniquet 
can  be  made 
from  an  ordinary 
clothespin  and  a 
piece  of  binding 
tape,  about  %  in. 
wide  and  14  in. 
long.  To  stop 
the  bleeding 
from  a  wound  on 
a  limb,  pass  the 
tape  around  the 
injured  member 
between  the  wound  and  the  blood  sup- 
ply. Pass  the  tape  through  the  slot 
in  the  pin,  wind  the  ends  around  the  pin 
two  or  three  times  to  prevent  slipping, 
then  turn  the  pin  to  draw  up  the  tape 
tightly  until  the  flow  of  blood  is 
stopped. 


Mechanical  Aid  to  Singers 

Procure  a  large  cigar  box,  of  the 
square  variety,  and  three  ordinary 
drinking  glasses  with  very  thin  walls 
and  of  different  sizes,  and  place  them 
in  the  box,  as  follows :  Space  them 
evenly,  and  drive  three  brads  close  to 
the  circumference  of  each  glass  bottom, 


207 


SO  that  the  glasses  will  have  to  be 
forced  in  between  them.  To  prevent 
the  glasses  from  touching  the  wood 
place  a  one-cent  piece  under  each  one. 

A  fourth  glass  is  used,  but  from  this 
the  bottom  must  be  removed.  This 
can  be  done  by  saturating  a  string,  or 
piece  of  yarn,  in  kerosene  oil,  wrapping 
it  once  around  tlie  glass  near  the  bot- 
tom, then  lighting  it  and  allowing  the 
string  to  burn  out.  The  glass  is  then 
quickly  dropped  into  cold  water,  which 
will  remove  the  bottom. 

A  hole  is  cut  in  the  cover  of  the  box 
to  receive  the  bottomless  glass  from 
the  upper  side,  so  that  its  lower  edge 
will  be  flush  with  the  under  surface. 
Cut  a  slot,  3  in.  long  and  i/&  in.  wide, 
in  the  cover  near  the  back  side. 

To  use,  close  the  cover  and  at  a  dis- 
tance of  about  Yz  in.  from  the  glass  in 
the  cover,  or  mouthpiece,  sing  into  it. 
The  glasses  will  impart  to  the  voice  a 
peculiar  tone  delightful  to  hear. — Con- 
tributed by  J.  B.  Murphy,  Plainfield, 
New  Jersey. 


Model  Boat  with  Aerial  Propeller 

Procure  or  make  a  small  model  boat, 
12  or  18  in.  long,  and  place  in  the  hold 
one  or  two  cells  of  dry  battery.  Make 
a  small  platform  in  the  stern  and 
mount  on  it  a  small  battery  motor  with 
the  shaft  parallel  with  the  length  of 
the  boat  and  in  the  center.  Directly 
above  and  parallel  with  the  motor 
shaft  run  a  shaft — a  hatpin  will  do — 
in  bearings  fastened  to  the  deck.  At- 
tach a  drive  pulley  directly  over  the 
pulley  on  the  motor  and  belt  it  up  with 
a  cord  or  rubber  band.  Purchase  or 
make  a  propeller  blade  and  attach  it 


The  Aerial  Propeller  is  Driven  by  a  Small  Battery 
Motor  Placed  in  the  Boat 

to  the  rear  end  of  the  shaft.  A  switch 
can  be  located  on  the  deck  for  con- 
trolling the  motor. — Contributed  by 
Geo.  B.  Riker^  Ft.  Wayne,  Ind. 


Lantern-Slide  Binding  Machine 

The  machine  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion is  very  simple  to  make  and  when 
complete  is  one  of  the  greatest  time 


CUIDfS 


A  Machine  That  will  Help  to  Bind  Lantern 
Slides  Quickly  and  Neatly 


savers  that  a  photographer  can  pos- 
sess. The  base  is  made  of  a  piece  of 
board,  9  in.  long,  2  in.  wide,  and  %  in. 
thick.  The  uprights  support  a  small 
bar  upon  which  the  roll  of  binding  re- 
volves. An  old  ink  bottle  filled  with 
water  and  with  some  cotton  stuffed  in 
the  neck  serves  as  a  moistener  for  the 
binding.  The  use  of  this  machine  in- 
sures a  neat  job  in  a  very  short  space 
of  time.  The  slide  is  always  in  the 
center  of  the  binding.  The  end  of  the 
slide  should  run  a  little  over  the  end 
of  the  base  so  that  the  binding  may  be 
fixed  to  the  edge  with  the  fingers,  using 
a  downward  motion.  The  slide  is  then 
turned  over  on  the  other  edge  with  a 
rolling  motion  and  the  operation  re- 
peated.— Contributed  by  Alvin  G. 
Steier,  Union  Hill,  N.  Y. 


208 


Adjustable   Film-Developing   Machine 

The  simple  homemade  developing 
machine,  shown  in  the  illustration,  can 
be  easily  made  with  three  film  spools, 


Devclomn^  a    Roll    Film   in   a   Tray   with   a   Machine 

That  Drives  the   Film  around  Rollers  and  through 

the  Developing  Liquid  by  Turning  a  Crank 

some  strong  wire,  and  odd  pieces  of 
wood.  It  consists  of  an  open  frame, 
having  two  side  pieces  provided  with 
slots  down  the  center,  sufficiently  wide 
to  allow  an  ordinary  wood  screw,  of 
suitable  size,  to  slide  up  or  down  freely. 
The  two  end-connecting  pieces  act  as 
supports  for  the  developing  tray  and 
should  be  made  of  sufficient  length  so 
the  tray  can  pass  freely  between  the 
sliding  upright  frame,  made  to  fit  in 
between  the  side  pieces  of  the  base. 
This  frame  can  be  adjusted  to  suit  the 
length  of  film  and  is  clamped  in  place 
at  the  desired  position  by  wood  screws, 
fitting  in  the  long  notches  and  screwed 
into  the  uprights.  The  two  bottom 
rollers  consist  of  film  spools  which  are 
fastened  in  place  by  being  slipped  over 
a  suitable  wire,  bent  so  the  spool  can 
enter  the  developing  tray  and  the  wire 
pass  over  the  sides.  Another  bend  at 
the  outer  end  provides  for  the  adjust- 


ment of  the  spools  and  for  securing  the 
wire  in  place  by  staples.  The  top  spool 
is  secured  to  a  wire  fitted  with  a  crank 
at  the  outer  end,  so  that  in  turning  the 
wire,  the  spool  will  also  turn,  thereby 
driving  the  film.  When  placing  the 
film  on  the  machine,  the  sensitive  side 
should  face  outward  so  it  will  not  rub 
against  the  spools.  The  ends  of  the 
film  may  be  connected  with  pins  or 
ordinary  paper  fasteners. — Contributed 
by  H.  R.  F.  Richardson,  Ottawa,  Ont. 


Preventing  Loss  of  Fish  from  Covered 
Baskets 

In  the  cover  of  fish  baskets  an  open- 
ing is  frequently  made  permitting  the 
fish  to  be  put  in  without  lifting  the 
cover.  In  traveling  over  rough  places, 
or  when  the  basket  is  full,  some  of  the 
fish  are  likely  to  be  shaken  out,  or  may 
wiggle  out  of  the  basket.  To  guard 
against  this,  a  leather  flap  can  be  pro- 
vided covering  the  hole  on  the  inside. 
At  one  end  of  the  flap,  four  holes 
should  be  punched.  It  can  then  be 
placed  in  position  and  securely  laced 
to  the  cover.  The  flap  acts  as  a  valve, 
allowing  fish  to  be  put  into  the  basket, 
but  preventing  their  escape. — Contri- 
buted by  A.  W.  Cook,  Kamela,  Ore. 


Repair  for  a  Broken  Lock  Keeper 

Having  broken  the  recess  half  of  a 
common  cupboard  lock,  or  latch,  which 
was  used  to  fasten  a  hinged  storm 
window,  I  used 
a  round  -  head 
wood  screw  as 
s  h  o  w  n  .  The 
screw  was  easily 
placed,  and  it 
serves  the  pur- 
pose as  well  as 
the  regular 
keeper. — Contributed  by  R.  F.  Pohle, 
Lynn,  Mass. 


CWhen  using  glue  contained  in  screw- 
stoppered  vessels  it  is  advisable  to 
smear  a  little  vaseline  on  the  thread 
to  prevent  the  stopper  from  adhering 
to  the  container. 


Throwing  a   Spot   Light  with  the    Lantern    on   Individuals   of   a   Home   Play,    Which   can  be  Given  Brilliant 
Effects   by  the  Use   of  the  Tinted   Celluloid   in   the  Openings   of   the    Revolving  Wheel 

Lantern  for  Spot  and  Colored  Lights 


The  school  play  in  pantomime  is  not 
complete  unless  the  different  parts  of 
the  play  are  illuminated  in  different 
colors,  especially  if  the  performers  are 
clad  in  glittering  garments.  A  spot 
light  is  also  a  feature  not  to  be  forgot- 
ten in  singling  out  the  star  player  or 
the  one  singing  a  song.  The  cost  of  a 
light  for  this  purpose  is  entirely  out 


colored  lights  can  be  made  at  home, 
and  the  necessary  parts  will  not  cost 
much. 

The  metal  necessary  can  be  the  ordi- 
nary stovepipe  material,  but  if  it  is 
desired  to  have  a  fine-appearing  lan- 
tern, procure  what  is  called  Russian 
iron.  This  metal  has  a  gloss,  and  if 
used,  it  should  be  gone  over  from  time 


Pattern  for    Cutting  the  Metal    to  Form   the  Entire  Lantern,  or  Lamp  House,  Also  the  Pattern  for  the  Top 

and  the  Metal  Bracket  That  Makes  a  Bearing  for  the  Revolving  Wheel, 

Having  Openings  Covered  with  Tinted  Celluloid 


of  the  reach  of  the  average  schoolboy, 
but  if  he  has  any  ingenuity  and  a  lit- 
tle time,  a  lantern  for  throwing  those 


to  time  with  a  rag  soaked  in  oil,  then 
wiped  dry,  to  keep  it  from  rusting. 
The  pattern  for  the  body  of  the  lan- 


209 


210 


tern,  or  lamp  house,  is  shown  with  di- 
mensions. 

If  metal,  long  enough  for  the  whole 
length,  cannot  be  procured, then  make  it 
in  two  pieces,  being  sure  to  allow  ^2-'"- 


Pattern  for  the  Revolving  Wheel  in  Which  Six  Holes 
are  Cut  and  Covered  with  Tinted  Celluloid 

end  also  on  the  second  part,  as  shown 
on  the  first,  for  a  riveted  joint.  The 
metal  is  bent  on  the  dotted  lines  and 
cut  out  on  the  full  ones.  The  distance 
between  the  lines  A  to  be  bent  is  equal 
to  the  radius  B.  The  part  A  forms  the 
sloping  side  of  the  top,  and  the  3-in. 
part  at  the  top  of  the  side  extends  ver- 
tically on  the  upper  or  vertical  part, 
it  being  I/2  '"•  narrower  to  provide  an 
outlet  for  the  heat. 

An  opening  is  cut  in  the  rear  end. 


The  Base  of  the  Lantern  is  Provided  with  a  Sliding 
Part  Carrying  the  Light  for  Adjustment 

as  shown,  also  a  hole,  5  in.  in  diameter, 
in  the  front  end.  The  size  of  the  round 
hole   is  optional,  as   it  should   be   cut 


to  suit  the  condensing  lens  provided. 
If  a  lens  51/.  in.  in  diameter  is  used, 
then  a  5-in.  hole  should  be  cut.  This 
is  enough  difference  in  size  to  hold 
the  lens  from  dropping  through,  while 
clips  ri\'eted  on  the  inside  of  the  lamp- 
house  end  will  hold  it  in  place.  The 
lens  is  set  in  the  hole  with  the  curved 
side  outward  from  the  inside  of  the 
lamp  house. 

The  top,  or  covering,  is  cut  out  of  the 
same  material  as  used  in  making  the 
lamp  house,  the  length  being  13  in., 
and  the  sides  are  cut  to  extend  I/2  in. 
on  each  side  of  the  ventilator.  The 
edges,  being  turned  down  on  the  dotted 
lines,  provide  a  covering  to  prevent  any 
great  amount  of  light  from  passing  out 
through  the  l/2-in.  ventilating  opening 
mentioned  in  connection  with  the  side 
construction  of  the  lantern.  The  1-in. 
parts  of  the  cover  ends  are  turned 
down  and  riveted  to  the  ends  of  the 
lamp  house.  The  little  extensions  on 
the  ends  provide  a  means  of  riveting 
the  side,  to  make  a  solid  joint. 

The  arm  C  is  made  of  a  piece  of 
Vs  or  VV-in.  metal,  shaped  as  shown, 
to  fit  on  the  corner  of  the  lamp  house, 
where  it  is  riveted.  This  provides  a 
support  and  a  place  for  an  axis  for  the 
large  revolving  wheel  holding  the  col- 
ored-celluloid disks. 

The  metal  forming  the  lamp  house  is 
fastened  on  a  baseboard,  cut  to  snugly 
fit  on  the  inside.  The  base  has  two 
cleats,  nailed  lengthwise  to  form  a  run- 
way, 4  in.  wide,  into  which  another 
board  is  fitted  to  carry  the  burner. 
While  the  illustration  shows  an  acety- 
lene burner,  any  kind  of  light  may  be 
used  so  long  as  it  is  of  a  high  candle- 
power.  If  manufactured  gas  is  at  hand, 
a  gas  burner  with  a  mantle  can  be 
fitted,  or  a  large  tungsten  electric  light 
will  give  good  results. 

The  wheel,  carrying  the  colored 
disks,  is  made  of  the  same  kind  of 
metal  as  used  for  the  lamp  house.  The 
edges  should  be  trimmed  smooth,  or, 
lietter  still,  turned  over  and  hammered 
down  to  prevent  injury  to  the  hands 
while  turning  it.  A  washer  should  be 
used  between  this  wheel  and  the  arm 
C  on  a  bolt  used  for  the  shaft,  to  make 


ill 


the  wheel  turn  freely.  The  colored 
disks  of  celluloid  are  fastened  to  the 
outside  of  the  wheel  over  the  openings. 
A  yoke  to  support  the  lantern  and 
provide  a  way  for  throwing  the  light 
in  any  direction,  is  made  as  shown.  A 
line  along  which  the  lantern  balances 
is  determined  by  placing  it  on  some- 
thing round,  as  a  broom  stick,  and  the 
upper  ends  of  the  yoke  are  fastened  on 
this  line  with  loosely  fitted  bolts  for 
pivots. 

The  lantern  is  set  in  front  of  the 
stage  at  the  Ijack  of  the  room  and 
the  light  is  directed  on  the  players,  the 
colors  being 
changed  by  turn- 
ing the  wheel. 
Sometimes  good 
effects  can  be  ob- 
tained by  using 
the  lantern  in  the 
wings,  or  for  a 
fire  dance,  b  y 
placing  it  under 
the  stage,  throw- 
ing the  light  up- 
ward through  grating  or  a  heavy  plate 
glass. 


Homemade  Palette  Knife 

A  corset  steel  makes  a  good  substi- 
tute for  a  palette  knife  because  of  its 
flexibility.  It  gives  better  satisfaction 
if  cut  in  the  shape  shown  than  if  left 
straight.     Should  a  handle  be  desired, 


c 


!::> 


A  Palette  Knife  Made  of  a  Corset  Steel  and  a 
Wood  Handle  Attached 

one  can  be  easily  made  by  gluing  two 
pieces  of  thin  wood  on  the  sides. — 
Contributed  by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


CTo  remove  a  white  mark  on  wood 
having  a  wax  surface,  rub  it  lightly 
with  a  rag  moistened  in  alcohol ;  then 
rub  with  a  little  raw  linseed  oil. 


Self-Closing    Gate 

This  gate  is  suspended  from  a  hori- 
zontal bar  by  chains,  and  swings 
freely   about   a    1-in.   gas   pipe,   placed 


The  Gate  will   Swing  in  Either   Direction   and  Come 
to  a  Rest  Where  It  Closes  the  Opening 

vertically  in  the  center  of  the  gate. 
The  chains  are  of  the  same  length, 
being  fastened  equidistant  from  the 
pipe,  the  upper  ends  farther  out  than 
the  lower.  The  distance  depends  on 
the  weight  of  the  gate  and  the  desired 
force  with  which  it  should  close.  Any 
of  the  numerous  styles  of  latches  can 
be  used,  if  desired. — Contributed  by 
Kenneth  Osborn,  Loveland,  Colo. 


A  Poultry  Shade 

If  a  poultry  yard  is  in  an  open  space 
where  the  sun's  rays  will  strike  it 
squarely,  a  shade  can  be  put  up  as 
follows :  A  piece  of  old  carpet,  rug,  or 
canvas,  fastened  to  the  wire  mesh  with 
clothespins,  will  produce  a  shade  at 
any  place  desired. — Contributed  by 
Walter  L.  Kaufmann,  Santa  Ana,  Cal. 


31i 


Reflector  for  Viewing  Scenery  from  a 
Car  Window 

Construct  a  box  of  pasteboard  or 
thin  wood,  about  9  in.  long,  3  in.  wide 
and  2  in.  tiiick,  and  fasten  two  pieces 

The  Reflecting  Device 

as  It  is  Used  in  a  Car 

ndow    for   Viewing 

Scenery    Ahead 

A  B 


□  ' 


of  mirror  in  the  ends  at  an  angle  of  45 
deg.,  both  sloping  in  the  same  direction 
with  their  reflecting  surfaces  toward 
each  other.  An  opening  as  large  as  the 
mirror  is  cut,  facing  it,  in  the  box  at  the 
end  A,  and  a  small  hole  bored  through 
at  the  end  B  so  that  it  will  center  the 
mirror.  Both  of  these  apertures  are 
covered  with  plain  pieces  of  glass. 

In  use,  the  end  A  is  placed  outside  of 
the  car  window  and  the  user  places  an 
eye  to  the  small  hole  B.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  be  struck  in  the  eye  with  a 
cinder  or  flying  object. — Contributed 
by  Mildred  E.  Thomas,  Gordon,  Can. 


A  Muskrat  Trap 

It  is  difficult  to  catch  muskrats  in  an 
ordinary  steel  trap,  as  a  broken  bone 
allows  them  to  sever  the  flesh  and  es- 


A  Trap  for  Catching  Muskrats  Alive  in  One  of  Their 
Mounds  Built  of  Moss  and  Sticks 

cape.  During  the  summer  these  rats 
build  a  shelter  for  the  winter  con- 
structed of  moss  and  sticks  placed  on 
the  river  or  lake  bed,  the  top  extend- 


ing above  the  water  level  and  the  en- 
trance being  through  a  hole  in  the 
bottom  near  one  side,  while  the  pas- 
sage itself  is  under  water.  It,  therefore, 
only  remains  for  the  trapper  to  make 
one  of  these  houses  over  into  a  huge 
wire  trap  so  that  the  animal  may  be 
caught  alive. 

The  house  A  is  prepared  by  remov- 
ing the  top  and  building  the  trap  from 
heavy  mesh  wire  which  can  be  easily 
shaped,  the  joints  being  held  together 
by  binding  the  edges  with  wire.  The 
passage  is  then  fitted  with  a  double 
trapdoor,  the  first,  B,  provided  with 
sharp  points  on  the  swinging  end, 
while  the  other  is  a  falling  cover. 
These  two  doors  are  placed  in  an  en- 
trance way,  C,  made  of  wire  mesh  and 
fastened  over  the  passageway. 

The  muskrat  comes  up  through  the 
passage,  pushing  a  bunch  of  moss  or 
sticks  and  does  not  notice  passing  the 
trapdoors.  The  upper  door  is  to  keep 
the  animals  caught  from  getting  at  the 
first  door. — Contributed  by  Vance  Gar- 
rison, Bemidji,  Minn. 


A  Casein  Glue 

Casein  glues  are  splendid  in  wood- 
working, making  cardboard  articles, 
and  when  the  composition  is  varied 
somewhat,  make  excellent  cements  for 
china  and  metals.  Casein  is  made  from 
the  curd  of  soured  milk  after  removal 
of  the  fat,  and  is  put  on  the  market  in 
the  form  of  a  dry  powder. 

To  make  the  glue,  soak  the  casein 
powder  two  hours  in  an  equal  weight 
of  hot  water.  To  this  gummy  mass  add 
about  one-seventh  the  weight  of  the 
casein  in  borax  which  has  been  dis- 
solved in  very  little  hot  water.  Stir 
until  all  is  dissolved  after  mixing  borax 
and  casein.  This  can  be  thinned  with 
water  to  suit  and  is  a  good  glue,  but 
it  can  be  made  more  adhesive  by  the 
addition  of  a  little  sodium  arsenate. 
Any  alkali,  such  as  soda  or  ammonia, 
could  be  substituted  for  the  borax. 

To  make  a  china  cement,  lime  or 
water  glass  should  be  substituted  for 
the  borax.  Addition  of  burnt  magnesia 
increases    the    speed    of    hardening. 


213 


,  i^,'*' ;  i  .^ 


...^W/sJs' 


-  -..:,:^-^--- 


The  Mile-O-View  Camera 


By  T.  B.  LAMBERT 


Many  have  tried,  but  heretofore  no 
one  has  succeeded  in  taking  panoramic 
views  from  the  side  of  fast-moving 
trains  or  street  cars.  Motion  pictures 
are  easily  obtained  from  the  front  or 
rear  of  moving  trains,  but  none  vi^ith 
the  camera  lens  pointing  at  right  an- 
gles, or  nearly  so,  to  the  track.  A  com- 
plete apparatus  for  taking  continuous 
and  perfect  panoramic  pictures  of  any 
desired  length  as  one  travels  through 
a  country  is  too  complicated  to  be  de- 
scribed in  detail  within  the  limits  of 
this  article,  but  a  simple  arrangement, 
invented  and  constructed  by  the  writer, 
will  enable  anyone  to  perform  the  ex- 
periment at  practically  no  cost  except 
for  the  film. 

Some  form  of  a  roll-film  camera  is 
essential,  and  simply  as  a  working 
basis,  it  will  be  assumed  an  ordinary 
camera  is  used,  post-card  camera  in 
size,  for  which  the  following  things 
will  be  required  :  A  piece  of  thin  black 
card,  or  hard  rubber;  a  small  board, 
and  a  piece  of  wire  to  be  used  as  a 
crank. 

Prepare  the  paper,  or  hard  rubber, 
by  cutting  it  to  a  size  that  will  exactly 
cover  the  rear  camera  opening  when 
the  back  of  the  camera  is  removed, 
"which,  in  the  case  of  a  post-card  size. 


The  Board  Used  Instead  of  a  Tripod  is  Placed 
across  the  Backs  of  Two  Car  Seats 

is  6  in.  long  and  3%  in.  wide ;  then 
cut  a  narrow  slot,  about  ^\  in.  wide 
crosswise  through  the  center  of  the  ma- 
terial. This  slot  should  extend  to 
within  about  1/2  in.  of  each  edge,  and 
the  edges  must  be  perfectly  smooth 
and  straight.     If  paper  is  used,  glue  it 


These  Two  Articles  Constitute  the  Only  Parts 
Necessary   to    Change   a  Camera    into  a  Mile-O-View 

to  the  opening  in  the  camera.  If  hard 
rubber  is  used,  it  can  be  made  up  as 
shown  and  set  in  the  camera  opening. 


214 


This  will  bring  the  slot  directly  back 
of  the  lens  center  and  at  right  angles 
to  the  direction  in  which  the  film  moves 
when  being  rolled. 

A  board  is  prepared,  about  4  ft.  long, 
10  in.  wide  and  %  in.  thick.     This  is  to 


The  Two  Parts  as  They  are  Applied  to  an   Ordinary 
Roil-Film  Camera 

take  the  place  of  a  tripod,  and  it  must 
have  a  small  hole  and  suitable  wing 
nut  to  attach  the  camera  near  the  cen- 
ter. This  length  of  board  will  reach 
from  the  back  of  one  seat  to  another 
when  it  is  placed  to  support  the  camera 
during  the  exposure. 

A  wire,  about  Vg  in.  in  diameter,  is 
bent,  as  shown,  with  a  short  hook  on 
one  end,  and  the  other  turned  up  at 
right  angles,  to  serve  as  a  handle.  This 
wire,  when  hooked  into  the  wing  nut, 
will  enable  one  to  wind  up  the  film  at 
a  fairly  uniform  speed.  This  completes 
all  the  necessary  apparatus. 

To  take  pictures  with  this  panoramic 
outfit,  load  the  camera  in  the  usual 
way,  but  do  not  wind  it  up  to  exposure 
No.  1 ;  stop  at  a  point  where  the  be- 
ginning of  the  film  will  be  nearly  op- 
posite the  narrow  slot  in  the  black 
paper,  or  rubber.  This  would  be  to 
stop  the  turning  at  about  the  time  the 
hand  pointer  appears  in  the  small  back 
window.  Attach  the  camera  firmly  to 
the  board  and  brace  up  the  lens  end 
so  that  it  will  not  easily  shake  with 
the  movement  of  the  car.  Place  the 
board  across  the  backs  of  two  adjacent 
seats,  so  that  the  camera  will  point  out 
of  the  window  at  exactly  right  angles 
to  the  car. 


When  ready  to  expose,  open  the 
shutter  wide,  turn  the  crank  that  is 
hooked  into  the  wing  nut,  and  slowly 
wind  up  the  film  while  the  train  is 
running.  This  will  give  a  panoramic 
picture,  continuous  in  character,  and  if 
the  speed  of  turning  is  well  judged, 
some  very  splendid  views  can  be  made. 

The  speed  of  turning  the  crank  will 
be  governed  by  the  focal  length  of  the 
lens  and  the  speed  of  the  train.  For 
an  average  lens,  the  crank  should  be 
given  one  turn  per  second  when  the 
car  is  traveling  about  15  miles  an  hour, 
or  the  average  speed  of  a  street  car. 
A  train  traveling  30  miles  an  hour  will 
require  two  turns  of  the  crank  per 
second.  A  good  method  of  trying  this 
out  is  to  use  one  film  as  a  test  and 
turn  the  crank  a  few  times  and  note 
its  speed  by  the  second,  then  stop  and 
begin  again  at  another  speed  for  a  few 
turns  and  so  on,  until  the  entire  film 
is  exposed,  always  noting  the  turns 
and  time  for  each  change,  also  the 
speed  of  the  train,  ^^'hen  the  film  is 
developed  the  one  that  shows  best  will 
give  the  proper  number  of  turns  per 
second. 

The  following  points  must  be  consid- 
ered :  The  track  should  not  be  rough, 
and  the  camera  must  be  perfectly 
steady  and  not  twisted  out  of  position 
by  turning  the  crank,  otherwise  the 
resulting  picture  will  be  wavy.  If  the 
slot  in  the  back  board  is  not  smooth 
and  true,  the  picture  will  be  streaked. 
Turning  the  film  too  fast  will  make  the 
picture  elongated,  and  too  slowly,  con- 
densed. Should  the  camera  be  pointed 
otherwise  than  at  right  angles  the  pic- 
ture will  be  distorted.  This  arrange- 
ment cannot  be  used  to  take  moving 
objects  except  under  special  conditions. 
A  picture  of  a  passing  train  of  cars  can 
be  made  if  the  camera  is  stationary, 
but  the  wheels  and  drive  rods  will  ap- 
pear twisted  out  of  shape.  It  is  best 
for  the  experimenter  to  confine  himself 
to  scenery  at  the  beginning,  avoiding 
architectural  objects,  because  a  varia- 
tion in  speed  of  turning  the  crank  to 
wind  the  film  naturally  distorts  the  ar- 
chitecture, which  variation  is  not  so 
noticeable  in  a  scenic  view. 


^^^^^F!!^ 

Hi 

HHP^I^^ff^H 

^^^Si 

A  Photographic  Worktable  for  Small  Quarters 

By  K.  V.  REED 


FLAT  dwellers  have  no  space  at 
their  disposal  for  a  person  to  work 
at  photography,  and  the  bathroom 
must  take  the  place  of  a  dark  room. 
As  this  was  very  inconvenient  in  my 
case,  I  constructed  a  table,  that  from 
all  appearances  was  nothing  more  than 
a  large-size  kitchen  worktable,  and 
such  a  table  can  be  used  in  case  the 
builder  does  not  care  to  construct  it. 
The  table  is  turned  upside  down  and 
the  top  removed  by  taking  out  the 
screws.  The  top  is  made  of  several 
pieces  glued  together  and  will  remain 


edge  of  the  rails.  If  a  very  neat  job  is 
required,  these  boards  should  be  set 
inside  on  strips  nailed  to  the  inside  sur- 
faces of  the  rails,  at  the  proper  place 
to  make  the  boards  come  flush  with  the 
under  edges  of  the  rails. 

At  the  back  side  and  in  the  center  of 
the  new  bottom,  a  hole  is  cut,  6  or  7 
in.  square,  and  a  box  fastened  beneath 
it,  to  form  a  bottom  several  inches 
below  the  main  bottom.  In  this  space 
bottles  filled  with  solutions  are  kept. 
The  main  bottom  should  be  painted 
with  an  acid-proof  varnish. 


An  Ordinary  Kitchen  Worktable  Fitted  Up  as  a  Handy  Workshop 
for  the  Amateur  Photographer  Who  Has  a  Limited  Space  in  a 
Flat,  and  Where  a  Table  can  be  Used  to  Advantage  in  a  Room 


in  one  piece.  It  is  then  hinged  at  one 
side  to  the  top  edge  of  the  rail,  so  that 
it  can  be  turned  back  like  a  trunk,  or 
box,  cover. 

Boards  are  then  nailed  to  the  under 


The  space  in  the  table  is  then 
divided,  and  partitions  set  up,  which 
can  be  arranged  to  suit  the  builder. 

Another  attachment,  which  comes  in 
exceedingly  handy,  is  the  ruby  light. 


215 


216 


This  consists  of  a  box,  large  enough 
to  receive  a  printing  frame  at  the  bot- 
tom. Two  holes  are  cut  in  the  table 
top,  at  the  right  places  to  make  a 
window  for  the  light  and  a  slit  for  the 
printing  frame.  When  the  table  top 
is  raised,  the  box  with  the  light  is  fas- 
tened  over  the  openings   with  hooks, 


the  arrangement  of  which  will  depend 
on  the  size  and  shape  of  the  box.  In 
closing,  the  lamp  box  is  removed,  and 
pieces  of  board  are  set  in  the  holes. 
This  can  be  easily  arranged,  if  the  holes 
and  blocks  are  cut  on  a  slight  slope, 
so  that  the  latter  when  set  in  will  not 
fall  through  the  openings. 


Back  Thrust  Prevented  on  Skis 

To  overcome  the  difficulty  of  skis 
slipping  back  when  walking  uphill 
either   of    the    two    devices    shown    is 


SBi=aggg«»^ 


:\ 


~~~w^ 


Two  Methods  of   Making    an  Attachment   to   Prevent 
the  Backward  Thrust  of  a  Ski 

good,  if  the  attachments  are  fastened 
to  the  rear  end  of  the  skis. 

The  first  represents  a  piece  of  horse- 
hide,  about  4  in.  square,  tacked  on  the 
ski  and  with  the  hair  slanting  back- 
ward. This  will  not  interfere  with 
going  forward,  but  will  retard  any 
movement  backward. 


The  other  consists  of  a  hinged  por- 
tion that  will  enter  the  snow  on  a 
back  thrust.  As  the  ski  end  is  thin, 
a  block  of  wood  must  be  attached  to  it 
on  the  upper  side,  and  the  projecting 
piece  hinged  to  the  block.  The  bevel 
at  the  end  allows  it  to  dig  into  the 
snow  when  the  ski  starts  back.  In  go- 
ing forward,  it  will  swing  out  of  the 
way  freely. 


Crystallization  Shown  on  a  Screen 

The  formation  of  chemical  crystals 
can  be  shown  in  an  interesting  manner 
as  follows :  Spread  a  saturated  solu- 
tion of  salt  on  a  glass  slide,  or  projec- 
tion-lantern glass,  and  allow  it  to  evap- 
orate in  the  lantern's  light  or  beneath 
a  magnifying  glass.  The  best  sub- 
stances to  use  are  solutions  of  alum  or 
sodium,  alum  being  preferable.  Ordi- 
nary table  salt  gives  brilliant  crystals 
which  reflect  the  light  to  a  marked  de- 
gree. For  regular  formation,  where 
the  shape  of  the  crystal  is  being 
studied,  use  a  solution  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda. 

Many  startling  facts  may  be  learned 
from  the  study  of  crystals  in  this  man- 
ner, and  watching  them  "grow"  is 
great  sport  even  to  the  chemist. — Con- 
tributed by  L.  T.  Ward,  Des  Moines, 
Iowa. 


Furniture  Polish  for  Fine  Woods    . 

Boiled  olive  oil,  to  which  a  few  drops 
of  vinegar  has  been  added,  makes  an 
excellent  furniture  polish  for  very  fine 
woods.  It  will  be  found  to  work  nicely 
on  highly  polished  surfaces,  and  also 
for  automobile  bodies.  It  is  applied  in 
moderate  quantities,  and  rubbed  to  a 
luster  with  a  flannel  cloth. 


217 


Enlarj3^ng 

By  A.  E 

When  the  photoj^rapher  wishes  to 
make  an  enlarged 'print  from  a  small 
negative,  he  arranges  a  suitable  light 
and  condensers  back  of  the  negative 
and  by  means  of  a  lens  projects  the 
resultant  image  upon  a  sheet  of  sensi- 
tive paper.  Owing  to  the  comparative 
weakness  of  the  light,  however,  it  is 
necessary  either  to  use  bromide  paper 
or   some   of   the   faster   brands   of   de- 


Photographs 

.  SWOYER 

sisting  simply  in  the  substitution  of  a 
better  lens  for  the  cheap  plate  glass 
with  which  such  instruments  are  usu- 
ally fitted. 

A  contact  print,  preferably  on  glossy 
paper,  ferrotyped,  is  made  from  the 
original  negative  by  contact  in  the 
usual  way;  this  is  then  placed  in  the 
modified  projector  and  the  image 
thrown  upon   a   sensitive  plate  of  the 


FiG.l  Fig. 2  FiG.3 

An    Ordinary    Post-Card    Projector   Used    Back    of  a   Camera   to   Illuminate  a   Photograph   "Which    is 
Enlarged  on   a  Plate  to  Make   a   Negative  Instead   of  a  Print 


veloping-out  paper.  If  a  more  artistic 
medium  is  desired,  a  glass  positive 
must  first  be  made  and  enlarged  to 
produce  a  negative  from  which  the 
final  prints  will  be  made  by  contact. 
This  process  is  somewhat  clumsy  and 
expensive,  for  if  any  retouching  or 
doctoring  is  to  be  done,  it  must  be 
upon  a  glass  surface,  either  that  of  the 
two  negatives  or  of  the  intermediate 
positive.  As  all  of  this  work  is  done 
by  transmitted  light,  there  is  the  loss 
of  fine  detail  common  to  all  enlarge- 
ments. 

The  difficulties  incident  to  this  proc- 
ess may  be  done  away  with  by  the 
use  of  a  modification  of  the  popular 
post-card  projector;  the  alteration  con- 


desired  size.  After  a  brief  exposure, 
development  will  show  an  enlarged 
negative  having  every  quality  of  the 
original. 

The  advantages  of  this  process  are 
obvious.  In  the  first  place,  the  com- 
parative cheapness  of  the  apparatus  is 
a  factor;  in  the  second,  the  intermedi- 
ate glass  positive  is  eliminated,  the 
print  which  is  substituted  for  it  pro- 
viding a  much  better  medium  for  re- 
touching, faking  or  printing  in. 
Transparent  water  colors  in  the  less 
actinic  shades  may  be  used  upon  this 
print  to  control  the  final  result,  and  if 
spoiled,  it  may  be  replaced  at  a  negli- 
gible cost. 

At  first  glance,  it  would  appear  as  if 


218 


this  method  were  simply  a  form  of 
photographic  copying;  it  is,  in  fact,  the 
reverse.  For  in  copying  any  object 
with  a  camera,  the  sensitive  medium  is 
behind  the  lens  and  the  object  to  be 
copied  is  in  front,  and  the  size  of  the 
copy  is  therefore  limited  both  by  that 
of  the  camera  and  by  its  bellows  draw. 
In  the  reflection  process,  the  object  to 
be  copied  is  back  of  the  lens  and  the 
sensitive  medium  is  in  front ;  as  large  a 
copy  can  be  made  with  a  small  camera 
as  with  an  eight  by  ten.  It  is  really 
more  convenient  to  work  with  a  short- 
focus  lens  and  a  camera  of  limited  bel- 


lows extension ;  the  nearer  the  lens  is 
to  the  back  of  the  camera  the  larger 
will  be  the  projected  image. 

The  diagram  (Fig.  1)  shows  that  the 
size  of  the  object  to  be  enlarged  does 
not  depend  upon  the  focal  length  of 
the  lens  used,  as  in  ordinary  enlarging, 
but  simply  upon  the  size  of  the  open- 
ing in  the  front  of  the  projector.  The 
dotted  lines  are  drawn  from  the  edges 
of  the  card  to  be  projected  through  the 
lens.  Figure  3  is  a  sketch  of  a  projec- 
tor with  the  lens  tube  removed,  so  that 
it  may  be  used  with  a  camera  as  shown 
in  Fig.  3. 


Horricmade  Screen-Door  Spring 

A  screen  or  storm-door  spring  can 
be  easily  made  of  spring-steel  wire. 
The  wire  is  bent 
to  the  shape 
shown  in  the 
sketch  and  two 
turns  given  to 
the  coil  as  shown 
at  A.  The  ends 
of  the  wire  are 
fastened  to  the 
casing  and  door 
with  staples. 
Two  or  three  of 
these  springs 
can  be  attached  to  one  door  where  it 
is  necessary  to  have  more  strength. — 
Contributed  by  Wm.  Rosenberg, 
Watertown,  Mass. 


A  Surprise  Water  Bottle 

The  performer  produces  a  bottle 
and  gives  it  with  a  glass  to  anyone  in 
the  audience,  asking  the  person  se- 
lected to  take  a  drink  of  a  very 
delicious  concoction.  When  the  per- 
son attempts  to  pour  out  the  solution 
it  is  found  to  be  frozen. 

To  perform  this  trick,  the  fluid  must 
be  previously  made  with  a  saturated 
solution  of  sulphate  of  soda  and  hot 
water.  Fill  a  clean  white  bottle  with 
the  solution,  taking  care  to  cork  the 
bottle  while  the  liquid  is  hot.  The 
liquid  remains  in  a  fluid  state  as  long 


as  the  bottle  is  corked.  When  the 
bottle  is  shown,  it  appears  to  contain 
a  liquid,  and  in  handing  it  to  a  person 
the  performer  must  be  careful  to  take 
out  the  cork  in  time  to  allow  it  to 
solidify.  In  order  to  gain  the  proper 
time,  pretend  to  be  looking  for  a  glass, 
make  some  remark  aliout  a  sudden 
chill  or  feel  the  hand  holding  the  bottle 
and  say  it  is  very  cold.  In  the  mean- 
time, the  air  acting  upon  the  solution 
has  caused  it  to  become  fixed  and  im- 
movable, and  when  the  person  at- 
tempts to  pour  it  out,  he  finds  it  is 
impossible. 


A   Graduate    Holder 

A  simple  and  easily  constructed 
graduate  holder  in  the  form  of  a 
bracket  placed  in  the  corner  of  a  dark 
room  is  shown  in  the  sketch.  The 
bracket  not  only  holds  the  graduates 
securely,  but  allows  them  to  drain  per- 
fectly   and    prevents   dust   settling   on 


The  Graduate  Holder  is  Permanently  Fastened  in  a 
Corner  of  the  Dark  Room 

the  inside,  as  they  are  suspended  by 
the  base.  Holes  of  different  size  are 
cut  in  the  board  to  accommodate  large, 
medium  and  small  graduates. 


!19 


Homemade    Enlarging    Camera 


-c 


The  ordinary  hand  camera  of  the  fo- 
cusing type  can  be  used  to  enlarge  pic- 
tures from  negatives  of  its  own  make. 
The  requirement  is  a  device  to  hold  the 
negative  rigid  in  a  position  in  front  of 
the  camera  lens,  and  at  such  a  distance 
that  the  rays  of  light  passing  through 
the  negative  and  lens  will  enter  a  box 
of  sufficient  size  for  the  desired  en- 
largement and  focus  plainly  on  a  sheet 
of  sensitive  paper  attached  to  the  end 
of  the  box. 

The  first  thing  to  do 
is  to  find  the  distance 
that  is  required  from 
the  camera  lens  to  the 
paper  enlargement  to 
make  the  proper  size, 
and  the  distance  from 
the  lens  to  the  negative. 
A  correspondent  o  f 
Camera  Craft  gives  the 
following  rule  for  find- 
ing these  dimensions: 
To  find  the  distance  be- 
tween the  lens  and  pa- 
per enlargement,  add 
1  to  the  number  of 
times  the  picture  is  to 
be  enlarged  and  multi- 
ply the  result  by  the 
focus  of  the  lens  in 
inches.  The  example 
given  is  for  a  6-in.  focus 
lens.  An  example:  A 
4  by  5-in.  negative  en- 
larged to  8  by  10  in.  is 
a  two-time  enlargement 
(four  times  in  area)  ; 
2-fl=3,  and  3X6=18, 
the  distance  in  inches 
of  the  lens  from  the  sensitive  paper. 
To  find  the  distance  of  the  lens  to  the 
negative,  divide  the  above  result,  18  in., 
by  the  number  of  times  desired  to  en- 
large, 18^2=9,  the  distance  in  inches 
from  the  lens  to  the  negative. 

With  these  figures  as  a  working 
basis,  the  box  can  be  made  in  any  size 
to  use  any  focusing  camera.  The  di- 
mensions given  in  the  drawing  are  for 


a  -1  by  5-in.  camera  having  a  G-in.  focus 
lens,  and  to  enlarge  the  pictures  from 
a  4  by  5-in.  negative  to  8  by  10  in.  In 
the  first  place  make  a  box  81/^  in.  wide. 


lOV, 


deep  and   14   in.  long,  inside 


measurement,  using  %-in.  material,  as 
shown  in  the  sectional  drawing  A. 
One  end  is  left  open  and  in  the  center 
of  the  other  a  hole  is  cut  5  in.  square. 
The  back  end  of  the  camera  is  placed 
over  this  hole  as  shown  at  B  and  %- 


'^/;w//////////////;////;;;/7m 


-14- 


W///M^/MW//M///////}^_^ 


^4'U 


] 

i 


.\\\\\\\Vv\WvVA\W 


Details  of  Construction   and  Camera  Complete 


in.  strips  nailed  to  the  box  end  around 
the  camera  back  to  exclude  all  light. 
The  camera  must  be  centrally  located. 
The  next  to  be  made  is  the  end  board 
or  easel,  consisting  of  two  pieces  of 
%-in.  material,  one  8V2  by  lO^/o  in., 
which  should  fit  easily  into  the  end  of 
the  box,  and  a  larger  one,  10  by  12  in., 
the  outside  dimensions  of  the  box, 
as  shown  at  C.    Nail  the  smaller  piece 


220 


to  the  center  of  the  large  one,  crossing 
the  grain  of  wood  in  so  doing.  The 
end  board  is  the  easel  upon  whicli  the 
sensitive  paper  is  fastened  with  push 
pins,  and  should  be  covered  with  a 
sheet  of  white  paper,  pasting  it  on  the 
81/2  by  101/2-in.  board  with  a  thin  coat 
of  glue.  The  slide  D  is  a  piece  of  wood 
%  in.  thick,  31/2  in.  wide  and  26  in. 
long.  This  is  fastened  to  the  under 
side  of  the  box  with  four  screws,  plac- 
ing it  exactly  in  the  center  and  parallel 
with  the  sides  of  the  box.  Be  careful 
to  have  the  slide  parallel  or  the  holder 
will  not  freely  slide  upon  it. 

The  negative  holder  E  is  made  of 
a  piece  of  %-in.  board,  8  in.  wide  and 
10  in.  long.  A  hole  51/2  by  71/2  in.  is 
cut  in  its  center,  leaving  a  margin  of 
1^/4  in.  on  all  sides.  This  holder  is 
set  in  a  groove  cut  in  a  block  of  wood 
having  a  mortise  cut  %  by  S^/o  in.  to 
fit  on  the  slide  easily.  A  thumb  screw 
is  fitted  in  the  center  of  the  bottom  of 
the  block  of  wood.  This  is  used  for 
fastening  the  negative  holder  rigidly 
to  the  slide  when  the  focus  is  secured. 
A  1-in.  hole  is  bored  in  the  upper 
corner  of  the  box  end,  as  shown,  to 
serve  as  a  peephole  for  seeing  the 
image  on  the  end  board  or  easel.  This 
is  covered  before  putting  the  sensitive 
paper  in  the  box.  The  end  board  is 
held  in  position  with  two  flat  brass 
hooks.  The  camera  is  held  in  place  with 
two  buttons  placed  on  blocks  of  wood 
the  height  of  the  camera  back,  as  shown 
at  F.  Two  pieces  of  clear  glass,  6  by 
8  in.  in  size,  are  held  in  place  in  the 
negative  holder  by  means  of  buttons, 
the  film  negative  being  placed  between 
them.  All  the  joints  in  the  box  must 
be  carefully  puttied  and  the  inside  of 
the  box  blackened,  which  is  done  with 
a  mixture  of  lampblack  and  alcohol, 
to  which  is  added  a  small  quantity  of 
shellac  to  give  it  body. 

A  darkroom  is  not  essential,  a  bath- 
room with  the  window  covered  over 
with  orange  paper  will  do,  or  even  a 
large  room  with  the  shades  drawn  and 
pinned  close  to  the  window  casing. 
It  is  best  to  leave  a  space  in  one  of 
the  windows  to  be  covered  with  orange 


paper,  doing  the  developing  about  10 
ft.  from  the  source  of  light. 

To  operate  the  camera  plhce  it  on 
the  enlarging  box,  hook  the  easel  in 
place,  put  a  negative  in  the  holder  with 
the  film  side  toward  the  lens.  Take  the 
outfit  to  a  shady  place  outdoors,  point 
the  holder  end  at  an  unobstructed  por- 
tion of  the  sky  and  look  through  the 
peephole.  Rack  the  lens  in  and  out  to 
focus  the  picture.  The  easel  should 
have  heavy  black  lines  drawn  upon  it 
inclosing  parallelograms  from  5  by  7 
in.  to  8  by  10  in.,  so  that  one  can 
readily  see  the  size  of  the  enlargement 
to  be  made.  When  the  focus  is  obtained 
take  the  outfit  into  the  darkroom,  re- 
move the  easel  and  fasten  the  sensitive 
paper  with  push  pins.  Replace  the 
easel  and  take  the  outfit  outdoors  again, 
point  it  toward  the  clear  sky  and  make 
the  exposure,  which  should  be  at  least 
5  seconds  with  a  16  stop.  It  is  best  to 
make  a  trial  exposure  on  a  small  strip 
of  paper  to  find  the  proper  time.  Di- 
rections for  the  use  of  bromide  papers 
will  be  found  in  each  package. 


An  Easy  Way  to  Make  a  Shelf 
Procure  an  ordinary  packing  box 
and  mark  a  line  from  corner  to  corner 
on  both  ends,  as  shown,  from  A  to  B 
in  Fig.  1.  Pull  out  all  the  nails  from 
the  corners  that  may  cross  the  line. 
Nail  the  top  to  the  box  and  saw  it  on 
the  lines  marked  and  two  shelves  will 


Fig  I 

Two  Shelves  Made  of  One  Box 


ria.2 


be  formed  which  may  be  used  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Boxes  dovetailed  at 
the  corners  will  make  excellent  shelves 
and  look  neat  if  painted. 


221 


Multiplying   Attachment   for  a   Camera 

By  J.  C.  MOORE 


The  hand  camera  suitable  for  this 
work  is  the  kind  commonly  known  as 
the  reversible  back,  which  is  a  detach- 
able part  that  carries  a  ground  glass 
for  focusing  and  a  place  to  insert  the 
plate  holders.  When  this  part  is 
removed,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  back 
of  the  camera  is  mortised  to  prevent 
light  from  entering.  Construct  a 
frame  to  take  the  place  of  the  back, 
but  make  it  about  %  in.  larger  all 
around,  and  make  one  surface  to  fit  the 
mortise  of  the  camera  box. 

A  back  is  now  made  and  attached  to 
the  frame,  to  carry  the  ground-glass 
reversible  back,  so  that  it  can  be 
shifted  over  the  center  of  focus  for 
each  small  portion  of  the  plate  on 
which  the  picture  is  to  be  made. 
Measure  the  outside  of  the  plate  holder 
and,  doubling  the  dimensions  both 
ways,  lay  out  a  diagram  on  a  piece  of 
paper.  Lay  the  plate  holder  on  the 
paper  and  move  it  to  the  extreme  left, 
then  to  the  right,  to  see  if  the  center 
of  the  plate  will  coincide  with  the  cen- 


increase  the  dimensions  until  this 
occurs.  Mark,  in  the  exact  center,  an 
opening  the  size  of  the  plate  and  cut 


1 


n 


M 


/f-^-r-j 


Manner  of  Laying  Out  the  Pattern  for  the  Back  and 
Locating  the  Exact  Center 

out  the  wood.  It  is  best  to  use  a  three- 
ply  wood  for  making  the  back,  but  if 
this  cannot  be  obtained,  procure  a  dry 


The  Attachment  as  It  is  Fitted  to  the  Camera  and  the  Reversible   Back  in  the  Frame 

ter  of  the  back.     In  the  same  manner      piece   of   wood  and   mortise   and   glue 


locate  the  center  in  a  vertical  position. 
If    the    center    lines    do    not    coincide, 


strips  to  the   ends   to  keep  the  wood 
from  warping.     Glue  the  frame  to  this 


223 


back,  over  the  opening,  and  make 
attachments  to  hold  it  to  the  camera 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  reversible 
back  was  attached. 

If  pictures  of  two  or  three  dififerent 
sizes  are  to  be  made,  the  openins;  in 
the  new  back  should  be  fitted  with  as 
many  new  pieces  as  there  are  sizes  of 
pictures,  each  to  have  an  opening  of 
corresponding  size.  For  a  5  by  7-in. 
plate,  1%  by  iVi-in.  pictures  is  a  good 
size,  as  there  will  be  room  for  34 
pictures  on  the  plate  with  a  small  mar- 
gin left  for  notes.  The  piece  to  fill 
the  opening  should  be  made  of  the 
same  material  as  the  back  so  that  a 
smooth  joint  will  result.  As  a  board 
cannot  be  made  smooth  enough  for  a 
perfectly  light-tight  joint,  the  surface 
on  the  new  back,  over  which  the  rever- 
sible back  travels,  must  be  covered 
with  cloth — a  piece  of  black  velvet  is 
suitable — to  exclude  all  light  as  the 
plate  holder  is  shifted  over  the  back. 

A  frame  is  now  made  to  carry  the 
reversible  back  of  the  camera,  the  size 
of  which  will  depend  on  the  size  of 
the  other  parts,  as  well  as  on  the  size 
of  the  camera  to  be  used.     This  frame 


consists  of  two  horizontal  strips  joined 
at  the  ends  with  grooved  pieces,  fitting 
the  edge  of  the  new  back,  so  that  it 
may  be  slid  up  and  down  in  the 
grooves.  The  crosspieces  are  also  rab- 
beted to  receive  the  reversible  back 
and  allow  it  to  be  moved  back  and 
forth  horizontally.  The  rabbet  in  the 
horizontal  strips  should  not  be  so  deep 
as  to  permit  the  extending  edge  to 
overlap  the  ground-glass  frame,  thus 
preventing  it  from  moving  back  as  the 
plate  holder  is  inserted. 

If  the  frame  on  the  back  and  the 
reversible  back  fit  tightly,  they  will 
remain  in  any  position,  but  if  they  are 
loosely  fitted,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
provide  some  means  to  hold  them. 
Small  springs  with  pins  may  be  fitted 
to  the  vertically  moving  frame  to  hold 
it  in  the  position  for  the  horizontal 
rows  of  pictures. 

The  ground  glass  should  be  marked 
for  the  size  picture  to  be  taken.  The 
positions  of  the  frame  and  plate  car- 
rier should  also  be  marked  so  that  the 
plate  holder  need  not  be  taken  out  to 
find  the  location  and  focus  for  the  next 
picture. 


Connecting  a  Pipe  to  Sheet  Metal 

In  the  absence  of  a  waste  nut,  an 
iron  pipe  can  be  easily  fastened  to 
sheet-metal    work    as    shown    in    the 


Vhe  End  of  the  Pipe  as  It  is  Prepared  to  be  Riveted  on 
the  Sheet  Metal 

sketch.  The  end  of  the  pipe,  Fig.  1. 
is  slotted  with  a  hacksaw  to  form  four 
projections,  which  are  turned  outward 


and  their  ends  rounded  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  The  face  of  the  projections 
are  tinned  and  then  riveted  to  the 
sheet-metal  surface,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
3.  After  soldering  the  joint,  it  will 
be  as  good  or  better  than  if  a  waste 
nut  had  been  used. — Contributed  by 
Lorin   A.   Brown,   Washington,   D.   C. 


An  Acid  Siphon 

When  siphoning  off  acids  or  other 
disagreeable  or  poisonous  liquids,  it  is 
very  important  that  none  of  it  touch 
the  flesh  or  mouth.  It  is  almost  im- 
])ossible  to  do  this  when  starting  the 
cirdinary  siphon.  A  siphon  that  does 
away  with  this  inconvenience  and  dan- 
ger can  be  made  as  follows : 

Procure  a  good  Bunsen  burner  and 
two  pieces  of  V^^-m.  glass  tube,  one 
2  ft.  and  the  other  18  in.  long.  Heat 
the  2-ft.  length  at  a  point  8  in.  from 
one  end  in  the  flame  until   it  can  be 


223 


bent  as  shown  at  A.  The  other  piece 
should  be  plugged  at  one  end  and 
then  slowly  and  evenly  heated  at  a 
point  10  in.  from  one  end.  When  the 
glass  is  soft,  blow  slowly  and  steadily 
into  the  open  end,  at  the  same  time 
turning  the  tube  around  in  the  flame. 
This  will  form  a  bulb,  B.  The  ends  of 
the  glass  tube  are  heated  and  bent  as 
shown,  at  C  and  D,  and  then  fused 
onto  the  piece  A,  as  shown  at  E.  This 
can  be  accomplished  by  heating  the 
piece  A  at  a  point  -1  in.  from  the  un- 
bent end.  When  the  glass  becomes 
soft,  place  one  end  of  a  short  piece 
of  tube  in  it  and  pull  out  into  a  thread. 
Break  this  off  as  close  to  the  tube  as 
possible,  to  make  a  hole  in  the  tube. 
Heat  the  end  of  the  tube  D  and  also 
the  glass  around  the  hole,  and  when 
both  become  soft,  they  can  be  fused 
together. 


When  Starting  This  Siphon  It  is  Difficult  for  the  Liquid 
to  Touch  the  Mouth  or  Flesh 

In  use,  close  the  end  not  in  the 
liquid  and,  placing  the  mouth  at  F, 
exhaust  the  tube,  thus  filling  it  with 
the  liquid.  \\'hen  the  closed  end  is 
opened,  the  siphon  will  flow.  The 
liquid  collects  in  the  bulb,  and  if  a 
little  care  is  used,  none  of  it  can  reach 
the  mouth. — Contributed  by  O.  F. 
Tronnes,  Evanston,  111. 


Bottle-Opening  Trick 

A  local  junk  dealer,  who  was  also 
known  as  the  "strongest  man  in 
town,"  used  to  mystify  the  folks  by 
opening  a  bottle,  apparently  with  a 
stroke  of  his  index  finger.  His  audi- 
ence saw  his  index  finger  strike  the 
stopper,  but  did  not  see  the  knuckle  of 
his  second  finger  strike  the  eccentric 
at  the  point  A,  as  shown  in  the  sketch, 
causing  it  to  fly  up  while  his  index 
finger  B  assisted  the  stopper  out  of  the 
bottle  mouth. 

When  trying  the  trick,  it  is  best  to 


select  a  bottle  with  a  loose  stopper,  or 
else  wear  a  glove,  as  the  gentleman 
who  demonstrated  the  trick  had  hands 


In  Striking  the  Bottle  Cork,  the  Knuckle  of  the  Second 
Finger  Loosens  the  "Wire  Lock 

of  the  hard  and  horny  type. — Con- 
tributed by  James  M.  Kane,  Doyles- 
town.  Pa. 


Setting  Colors  in  Fabrics 

The  colors  of  fabrics  or  other 
materials  of  any  kind  may  be  set  by 
boiling  the  articles  in  the  following 
solution :  To  1  gal.  of  soft  water  add 
1  oz.  of  ox  gall.  This  solution  should 
be  boiling  when  the  articles  are 
dropped  into  it.  A  chemical  reaction 
results  and  the  colors  are  set  or  made 
nonfading.  The  process  is  harmless. 
Colors  in  wood  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner. 


Towel-Roller  Brackets 

Very  serviceable  brackets  for  a  towel 
roller  can  be  made  by  using  ordinary 
wire  clothes  hooks,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  The  roller  is  made  of 
wood  and  two  nails  with  their  heads 
cut  off,  one  in  each  end,  form  bear- 
ings to  turn  in  the  ends  of  the  hooks. 
^Vhen  it  is  desired  to  remove  the 
roller,    the    hooks    are    sprung    apart 


The    Roller    Brackets    are    Easily    Adjusted    in    Any 
Location  and  Serve  the  Purpose  Admirably 

enough  to  allow  it  to  drop  out. — Con- 
tributed by  Hugh  Carmichael,  West 
Lome,  Ont. 


324 


A  Developing-Tray  Rocker 

The  tank  method  of  photographic 
development  is  acknowledged  as  the 
best,  yet  there  are  many  who,  for  vari- 


12'- 


Developing-Tray  Rocker  to  Keep  the  Liquid  in 
Motion  over  the  Plate  Automatically 

ous  reasons,  still  use  the  old-style  tray 
method.  For  those  who  use  the  tray, 
a  splendid  and  simple  method  that 
combines  the  good  qualities  of  both 
the  tank  and  tray  is  the  tray-rocking 
device  shown  in  the  illustration. 

The  rocker  consists  of  a  wood  box, 
13  in.  long,  9  in.  wide  and  iVo  in.  deep, 
made  of  %-in.  material,  together  with 
a  similar  box  1%  in-  deep,  that  fits  over 
the  other  as  a  light-proof  coyer.  Both 
are  given  a  coat  of  black  paint. 

At  the  center  on  the  under  side  of  the 
tray  part,  a  right  angle  made  of  strap 
iron  is  fastened  with  screws.  _  On  the 
part  projecting  down,  a  hole  is  drilled 
to  receive  a  sleeve  made  of  a  brass  tube 
which    is    soldered   in    place.      An   or- 


dinary shelf  bracket  is  procured,  one 
end  of  which  is  filed  and  fitted  with  a 
strip  of  metal  having  both  ends  turned 
up  slightly.  Small-pointed  pins  are 
fastened  in  holes  drilled  near  the 
turned-up  part.  The  points  of  the  pins 
serve  as  a  knife-edge  for  the  rocker. 
The  extending  end  of  the  strap  iron  is 
fitted  with  a  pendulum  rod  having  a 
weight  at  the  bottom. 

The  rocker  is  attached  to  the  wall  in 
a  convenient  place  in  the  dark  room. 
The  tray  with  the  developer  and  plate 
is  placed  in  the  box,  which  is  light- 
tight,  and  the  pendulum  is  started 
swinging. — Contributed  by  T.  B.  Lam- 
bert, Chicago. 

An  Adjustable  Bookholder 

A  very  satisfactory  adjustable 
holder  for  books  or  letters  can  be  con- 
structed of  ordinary  materials.  A 
board  is  used  for  the  base,  and  two 
pieces,  C.  cut  from  the  grooved  edges  of 
flooring  boards,  are  fastened  on  top  as 
shown.  A  permanent  end.  A,  is  fast- 
ened to  one  end  of  the  base.  A  good- 
size  holder  is  19  in.  long,  6  in.  wide, 
made  of  material  34  in.  thick. 

The  movable  slide  B  has  two  pieces 
attached  to  its  under  side,  which  are 
cut  from  the  tongued  edges  of  flooring 
boards.  The  piece  D  answers  the 
double  purpose  of  a  handle  and  brace. 
A  lock,  E,  is  made  of  a  bolt,  having  a 
long  thread  and  a  square  head.  A  hole 
is  bored  from  the  under  side  through 
the  brace,  and  a  portion  of  the  wood 
is  cut  out  to  admit  the  nut.  A  square 
place  is  cut  out  to  admit  the  square 
bolt  head   in   the   bottom   pieces.     To 


The  Holder  may  be  Used  for  Books  or  Letters 
and  Papers  as  a  File 

lock  the  slide,  simply  screw  the  nut 
upward  so  that  it  will  push  the  bolt 
head  against  the  base. — Contributed 
by  James  M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


An  Old-Oak  Stain 

To  make  old  oak  of  ash,  elm,  box 
alder,  chestnut,  maple,  yew,  and  syca- 
more wood  use  a  solution  of  copper 
acetate,  or  iron  acetate.  Either  of  these 
can  be  made  by  allowing  a  strong  acid 
to  come  in  contact  with  copper  or 
iron.  Acetic  acid,  or  vinegar,  will  do 
for  the  acid.  The  chemical  can  be  ob- 
tained from  a  local  druggist  if  it  is  not 
desired  to  make  the  stain.  By  varying 
the  strength  of  the  solution,  several 
shades  may  be  obtained.  A  weak  solu- 
tion of  iron  acetate  gives  various  brown 
hues.  As  the  strength  of  the  salt  in- 
creases by  concentration,  the  shades  of 
brown  darken. 


well.  Its  edge  should  be  notched  so 
that  it  will  easily  enter  the  wood.  The 
edges    of    its    central    slot    should    be 


Tablespoon   End  Used  as   Lemon 
Squeezer 

In  an  emergency,  the  ordinary  table- 
spoon can  be  used  as  a  lemon  squeezer 
by  turning  the  lemon  around  the  end 


:-[The  Shape  of  the  Spoon  Bowl  Produces  the  Same 
Effect  as  the  Lemon  Squeezer 

of  the  spoon.  This  produces  the  same 
result  as  obtained  with  the  regular 
squeezers,  which  act  on  the  principle  of 
extracting  the  juice  by  turning  and 
crushing  the  lemon  over  a  rough  pro- 
jection which  approximately  matches 
the  shape  of  a  half  lemon. — Contrib- 
uted by  L.  E.  Turner,  New  York,  N.  Y. 


A  Back  Stop  for  a  Workbench 

In  planing  small  pieces  on  a  bench, 
they  usually  have  a  tendency  to  tip  up 
or  slide  around.  This  difficulty  can  be 
easily  overcome  by  providing  the  bench 
with  an  extra  back  stop.  For  this  pur- 
pose a  discarded  plane  iron  will  do  very 


A  Plane  Bit  Fastened  to  the  Top  of  a  Bench  to  Hold 
Blocks  While  Planing  Them 

beveled  off,  if  an  ordinary  wood  screw 
is  used  to  fasten  it  to  the  bench.  A 
series  of  holes,  several  inches  apart 
and  in  line  with  the  regular  back  stop, 
should  be  bored  in  the  bench  so  the 
screw  and  iron  can  be  readily  changed, 
to  fit  varying  lengths. — Contributed  by 
C.  S.  Rice,  VVashington,  D.  C. 


BRASS  PINS 


Croquet    Mallets   Protected   by    Metal 
Rings 

Due  to  the  severe  service  they  are 
subjected  to,  croquet  mallets  very  fre- 
quently split 
off  at  the 
ends,  which 
spoils  them 
for  further 
use  in  accu- 
rate driving. 
To  prevent 
this,  metal 
bands  may 
be   placed 

around  the  ends  of  the  mallets.  Thin 
sheet  iron,  or  tin,  can  be  used  for  this 
purpose.  One  end  is  bent  up  at  right 
angles,  the  opposite  end  is  provided 
with  a  loop  to  fit  over  the  upright  por- 
tion of  the  first  end,  and  then  the  loop 
is  closed  up  and  hammered  down  to 
draw  the  metal  tightly  around  the  mal- 
let. The  ring  is  secured  in  place  with 
several  tacks,  or  short  nails,  driven 
through  the  seam. — Contributed  by 
H.  E.  Stratmeyer,  Rockville,  Md. 


226 


Distance  Marker  for  Printing 
Photographs 

A  convenient  homemade  printing 
device,  or  distance  marker,  for  printing 
photographs  by  artificial  light  consists 


floral  designs  is  the  best  to  use.  Or- 
dinary molding  made  into  a  frame  will 
do  as  well,  or  a  pattern,  whittled  out 
of  wood  in  oval  shape,  will  produce 
good  results. 

Make  a  flask  out  of  any  small  box, 
and  fill  it  with  clay  instead  of  molding 
sand.  Make  an  impression  of  the  frame 
in  the  clay,  and  the  mold  is  ready  for 
the  plaster. 

Procure  four  8-oz.  bottles,  fill  them 
with  water,  and  tint  the  water  in  three 
of  them  red,  green,  and  blue,  with  dyes. 
When  purchasing  the  plaster  of  paris — 
2  lb.  will  do — also  get  some  brass  fil- 
ings from  a  machine  shop,  and  mix  it 
with  the  plaster  while  in  a  dry  state; 
then  divide  the  lot  into  four  parts  of 
1/^  lb.  each,  or  equal  parts. 

Use  the  tinted  water  to  mix  the 
plaster  and  pour  it  into  the  mold.  This 
will  give  the  combinations  red,  green, 
blue,  and  white. 

Picture  frames  made  in  this  manner 
will  stand  enough  polishing  to  keep 
the  brass  filings  on  the  surface  bright 
and  shining,  which  gives  a  pretty  ef- 
fect.—Contributed  bv  I.  B.  Murphy, 
Plainfield,  N.  J. 


The  Same  Distance 
with  the  Same 
Exposure  will  Always 
Produce  Uniform  Prints 


of  a  smooth  board  on  which  twelve 
1-in.  marks  are  drawn,  as  shown.  A 
wall-base  electric  socket  is  attached  on 
the  first  line  and  the  others  are  num- 
bered up  to  12.  A  trial  test  of  a  nega- 
tive marks  the  distance  and  time  of 
exposure  which  should  be  recorded  on 
the  negative.  Such  a  device  makes 
uniform  prints  possible  and  provides  a 
means  of  recording  time  on  negative- 
storage  envelopes. — Contributed  by 
Harold  Davis,  Altoona,  Pa. 


Mantel   Picture   Frames   Made   in 
Plaster 

Procure  a  small  oval  or  rectangular 
frame  of  a  suitable  size  and  use  it  as 
a  pattern  in  making  a  mold.  If  it  is 
not  necessary  to  select  an  expensive 
frame,  one  that  is  straight  without  any 


A  Five-Pointed  Star 

There  are  many  ways  of  making  a 
five-pointed  star,  but  the  one  illus- 
trated is  new  and  easy  to  apply.  A 
long  strip  of  paper,  which  should  be 
transparent,  is  tied  into  a  knot.  When 
the  ends  A  and  B  are  drawn  tightly, 
the  paper  strip  takes  the  position 
shown  in  C.     The  end  A  is  folded  for- 


Holding  the  Knot  to  the  Light  a  Star  will   be  Seen, 
Shown  by  the  Dotted  Lines 

ward,  or  in  front  of  the  knot ;  then  the 
whole  is  turned  over  and  it  will  take 


227 


the  position  shown  in  D.  Hold  the 
paper  to  a  good  light  and  a  perfect  five- 
pointed  star  will  be  seen. — Contributed 
by  J.  J.  Kolar,  Maywood,  111. 


and  in  most  cases  fail.    It  can  be  done, 
and  the  illustration  shows  how  simply 


Fastening  Portiere  Pole  in  a  Doorway 

A  pole  can  be  fastened  between  two 
supports,  posts,  or  in  a  door  casing 
neatly  and  without  fixtures  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  The  pole  is  cut  %  in. 
shorter  than  the  space  between  the 
casings,  and  a  fV-in.  hole  is  drilled 
in  each  end,  one  to  a  depth  of  IV2  in. 
and  the  other  %  in.  deep,  a  coil  spring 
being  placed  in  the  deepest  hole. 

Screws  are  turned  into  the  center  of 
the  location  for  the  pole  in  the  door 
jambs,  allowing  one  screw  head  to 
project  Ys  in.,  and  the  other  at  least 
1/4  inch. 

To  place  the  pole  in  position,  put 
the  end  with  the  spring  in  the  hole  on 
the  screw  head  projecting  14  in.  and 
push  the  pole  against  the  jamb,  allow- 
ing  the    other   end    to   pass    over   the 


No  Fixtures  That  will  Show  are  Required  with  This 
Fastening  of  a  PortiSre  Pole 

Other  projecting  screw  head  until  it 
slips  into  the  hole  by  pressure  from 
the  spring.  The  spring  will  keep  the 
pole  in  position. — Contributed  by 
Ernest  F.  Dexter,  Hartford,  Conn. 


Trick  with  Knives  and  Glasses 

An  interesting  trick  may  be  per- 
formed with  three  tumblers  and  three 
table  knives.  Place  the  tumblers  in 
an  equilateral  triangle  on  a  table  so  the 
knife  ends,  when  the  knives  are  laid 
between  them,  as  shown  in  the  plan 
sketch,  are  about  1  in.  away  from  the 
tumblers.  The  trick  is  to  arrange  the 
knives  so  that  they  are  supported  by 
the  tops  of  the  three  tumblers  and 
nothing  else.  Most  observers  will  say 
that  it  is  impossible ;  some  will  try  it 


Knives  Placed  in  Such  a  Manner  as  to  be  Supported 
by  the  Three  Glasses 

it  may  be  accomplished. — Contributed 
by  R.  Neland,  Minneapolis,  Minn. 


A  Scraper  Handle 

In  using  the  ordinary  steel-plate 
scraper,  much  inconvenience  and 
cramping  of  the  hands  is  experienced 
unless  some  suitable  handle  is  attached. 
If  a  piece  of  scrap  wood  is  taken  and 
cut  to  a  convenient  shape,  with  a  groove 
tightly  fitting  the  scraper  steel,  greater 
pressure  can  be  exerted  and  more  ef- 
fective work  produced,  without  cramp- 


PIECE     OF    SCRAP   WOOD 
V&   THICK 


An  Ordinary  Piece  of  Board  Shaped  for  a  Handle 
and  Notched  for  the  Scraper  Blade 

ing  the  hands  or  tiring  out  the  operator 
as  readily. — Contributed  by  A.  P. 
Nevin,  Hancock,  Mich. 


228 


Photographic  Tray-Rocking  Stand 

Films  develop  better  if  the  tray  hold- 
ing the   solution  is  kept  in  motion  or 


Tray  Rocked  Auto- 
matically by  a 
\Veight 


rocked.  This  is  inconven- 
ient and  tiresome  where  a 
great  many  films  are  to  be 
developed.  The  trouble 
may  be  overcome  by  the  use 
of  the  rocking  device  shown 
in  the  sketch.  It  may  be 
made  of  any  light  wood,  the 
right  size  to  suit  the  pho- 
tographer's needs. 

The  tray  holder  A  is  pivoted  on  the 
uprights  C  with  pins  EE.  The  up- 
rights are  fastened  to  a  base,  B.  Two 
braces,  D,  one  on  each  side  of  the  up- 
right C,  limits  the  tip  of  the  tray 
holder  A.  The  weight  F  works  as  a 
pendulum,  which  automatically  rocks 
the  tray  when  set  in  motion. — Con- 
tributed by  Abner  B.  Shaw,  No.  Dart- 
mouth, Mass. 


Kite-Line  Traveler 

The  amusement  of  kite  flying  can 
be  broadened  by  adding  the  kite-line 
traveler  shown  in  the  sketch.  The 
frame  of  the  traveler  is  made  of  poplar, 
spruce  or  soft  pine,  1/4  in.  square.  The 
horizontal  piece  is  24  in.  long  and  the 
piece  to  which  the  wings  are  fastened 
is  8  in.  long.  This  piece  is  cut  so  it 
will  have  a  slight  slant.  The  brace  is 
a  mitered  piece,  13  in.  long.  The  frame 
is  fastened  together  with  small  brads, 


giving  it  the  appearance  shown  in 
Fig.  1. 

After  the  frame  is  finished,  the 
traveler  wheels  are  made  and  attached. 
They  should  be  %  in.  thick,  about  li/4 
in.  in  diameter,  and  have  a  groove  cut 
1%  in.  into  their  faces.  The  pattern  for 
cutting  the  bearings  is  shown  in  Fig. 
4.  These  are  bent  at  the  places  shown 
by  the  dotted  lines  and  attached  to  the 
main  frame  stick  as  shown  by  BB  in 
Fig.  3.  The  end  view  of  the  bearing 
is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  metal  is  bent 
in  as  shown  by  AA,  so  that  the  wheel 
will  rotate  without  much  friction. 

In  Fig.  6  is  shown  the  method  of  at- 
taching the  wings  to  the  slanting  frame 
part.  The  wings  are  made  of  light 
cardboard  and  each  fastened  with 
tacks  to  a  wood  arm,  cut  as  shown.  The 
large  end  of  each  arm  is  made  to  hinge 
in  a  piece  of  tin  with  brads  AA. 

Fasten  a  string  to  the  ends  of  the 
arm  pieces,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and 
attach  a  wire  loop  to  the  middle  of  the 
string,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  wire 
shown  at  L  in  Fig.  3  is  bent  and  at- 
tached to  the  main  frame  so  it  will 
slide  easily.    The  trip  for  dropping  the 


Fis.6 
Traveler  Details 


wings,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  is  a  small 
block  of  wood  about  2  in.  square  and 
%  in.  thick  with  a   i/^-in.  hole  in  the 


229 


center.  Slip  the  kite  line  through  the 
hole  before  tying  it  to  the  kite.  Place 
the  trip  about  100  ft.  from  the  kite 
and  wedge  it  to  the  string  with  a  small 
piece  of  wood.  The  eyelets  SS  are  nec- 
essary, as  they  make  it  impossible  for 
the  pulley  to  run  off  the  string. 

The  traveler  is  first  put  on  the  kite 
string  with  the  end  having  the  loop  L 
(Fig.  3)  up,  then,  after  letting  out  100 
ft.  of  string,  the  trip  block  is  fastened 
in  place  and  the  kite  tied  to  the  end 
of  the  string.  Hook  the  wire  loop  on 
the  string  attached  to  the  ends  of  the 
wings  in  place  in  the  wire  catch  of  L, 
and  it  is  ready  for  the  flight.  When 
the  traveler  reaches  the  trip,  the  loop 
L  is  pushed  back,  thus  causing  the  end 
of  the  wire  to  slip  out  of  wire  loop  and 
the  wings  to  fall  back  as  shown  in  Fig. 
2,  when  the  traveler  descends  ready 
to  be  set  for  another  flight. — Contrib- 
uted by  Stanley  C.  Funk,  Bellefontaine, 
Ohio. 


A  Mouse  Trap 

A  simple  mouse  trap  can  be  made  of 
two  lengths  of  steel  wire.     The  spiral 

wire  is  iV  in. 
in  diameter  and 
the  center  wire 
is  of  larger  size 
The  trap  is  set 
by  pulling  out 
the  spring  and  catching  the  ends  on 
the  bends  A  and  B.  The  bait  is  tied 
on  at  C.  When  the  mouse  puts  his 
head  through  the  coils  and  pulls  the 
bait,  the  springs  are  released  and  his 
head  is  caught  between  the  coils. 


How  to  Make  a  Small  Electric  Furnace 

The  furnace  consists  of  a  large 
flower  pot  containing  an  ordinary  clay 
crucible  about  (i  in.  in  height,  the  space 
between  the  two  being  packed  with 
fireclay.  Two  %-in.  holes  are  bored 
through  the  sides  of  the  crucible  about 
half  way  between  the  top  and  the  bot- 
tom. Holes  corresp*Dnding  to  these 
holes  are  molded  in  the  fireclay,  which 
should  extend  several  inches  above  the 


top  of  the  flower  pot.  A  smaller  cru- 
cible is  placed  inside  of  the  large  one 
for  use  in  melting  such  metals  as  cop- 
per, brass  and  aluminum.  With  metals 
that  will  melt  at  a  low  degree  of  heat, 


Electric  Connections  to  Furnace 

such  as  tin,  lead  or  zinc,  the  large 
crucible  can  be  used  alone.  Each  cru- 
cible should  be  provided  with  a  cover 
to  confine  the  heat  and  keep  out  the 
air.  The  electrodes  are  ordinary  arc- 
light  carbons. 

The  furnace  is  run  on  an  ordinary 
110-volt  lighting  circuit  and  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  a  rheostat  connected  in 
series  with  it.  A  water  rheostat  as 
shown  in  the  sketch  will  serve  to  reg- 
ulate the  current  for  this  furnace. 
Small  quantities  of  brass  or  aluminum 
can  be  melted  in  about  10  minutes  in 
the  furnace. — Contributed  by  Leonard 
Stebbins,  Denver,  Colo. 


Repairing  a  Broken  Knife  Handle 

A  piece  was  broken  from  the  pearl 
handle  of  my  knife  and  I  repaired  it  in 
the  following  manner:  After  cleaning 
both  the  edges  of  the  pearl  and  the 
brass  beneath,  I  run  in  enough  solder 
to  fill  the  place  of  the  piece  of  pearl 
broken  out.  The  solder  was  then  filed, 
sandpapered  and  polished.    The  broken 


Fig. I  Fig. 2 

Repairing  with  Solder 

part  cannot  be  felt  and  it  appears  to  be 
only  an  end  decoration. — Contributed 
by  W.  A.  Humphrey,  Columbus,  O. 


230 


Picture-Frame    and    Triangle    Clamp 


A  picture  frame  or  triangle  is  quite 
difficult  to  hold  together  when  fitting 
the  corners.  It  is  still  more  difficult 
to  hold  them  together  while  the  glue 
dries.  The  clamp  illustrated  will  be 
found  quite  satisfactory  in  solving  this 
problem,  and  at  the  same  time  is  very 
simple  to  construct  and  easy  to  manip- 
ulate. The  material  list  for  making  the 
clamps  and  corner  blocks  is  as  follows: 

Picture  frame  clamp; 

4  pieces.  1^  by  m,  by  15  in. 

2  pieces.  1^  by  liii  by    5  in. 
Triangle  clamp; 

3  pieces.  IH  by  IM  by  10  in- 
I  piece.    IH  by  134  by    4  in. 

Corner  blocks; 

4  pieces.  %  by  3f'2  by  3H  in. 
8  pieces.  %  by  1  by  2  in. 

The  pieces  mentioned  are  of  oak,  S-4-S. 

1  piece  ?8"in.  maple  for  dowels 
Hardware; 

10  bolts,  H  by  2  in. 
4  bolts.  H  by  3  in, 
2  bolts,  ?A  by  6  in. 

The  picture-frame  clamp  consists  of 
the  four  arms  A,  B,  C  and  D,  Fig.  1. 
A  %-in.  hole  is  bored  in  one  end  of 
each  piece,  I/2  in.  from  the  end.  A 
series  of  %-in.  holes,  1  in.  apart,  are 
bored  along  the  center  in  each  piece. 
The  two  short  pieces,  E  and  F,  have 
two  %,-in.  holes  bored  in  their  cen- 
ters, Yo  in.  from  each  end.  These 
pieces  are  bolted  to  the  four  arms  with 
i/i-in.  bolts  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  A 
%-in.  hole  is  bored   in   the  middle  of 


it  with  the  end  projecting  l^/i  in.  on 
the  under  side  and  level  with  the  sur- 
face on  the  upper  side.  Each  of  the 
corner  blocks  is  fitted  with  two  pieces 
like  X,  Fig.  2.  Each  of  these  pieces 
has  one  end  round  or  a  semicircle,  and 
in  its  center  a  Y^-in.  hole  is  bored.  The 
other  end  has  a  %-in.  hole  bored  %  in. 
from  the  end. 

After  making  the  small  pieces,  take 
the  four  corner  blocks  G,  H,  I  and  J 
and  draw  a  line  on  the  upper  side  in  the 
center,  with  the  grain  of  the  wood,  and 
mark  the  angles  as  follows,  so  that 
one-half  the  angle  will  be  on  each  side 
of  the  centerline:  On  one  end  of  the 
pieces  G  and  H  mark  a  90-deg.  angle, 
on  the  other  end  a  4.5-deg.  angle,  on 
the  piece  I  mark  a  90-deg.  and  30-deg. 
angle  and  on  J  mark  a  90-deg.  and  60- 
deg.  angle.  Mark  the  number  of  de- 
grees of  each  between  the  sides  of  the 
angle.  Place  two  of  the  pieces  marked 
X,  Fig.  2,  on  each  of  the  corner  blocks, 
one  piece  on  each  side  between  the 
dift'erent  angle  lines,  so  their  round 
ends  will  be  toward  the  center  and 
toward  each  other  with  a  space  of  % 
in.  between  them.  Clamp  the  pieces  to 
the  corner  blocks  and  bore  the  ^/^-in. 
holes  through  them  to  secure  perfect 
alincment.     Put  the  bolts  in  and  turn 


The   Corner    Blocks   on    Both    Picture   Frame   and   Triangle  Clamps   are  so   Constructed    That    They   Hold    the 
Molding  together  "While  Fitting  ttie  Corners  and  also  Hold  Them   Securely  While  the  Glue  is  Hardening 


each  piece  E  and  F  for  one  of  the  6-in. 
bolts  K. 

The  four  corner  blocks  G,  H,  I  and 
J,  Fig.  1,  have  a  %-in.  hole  bored  in  the 
center  of  each  and  a  dowel  glued  into 


the  pieces  first  to  one  angle  and  then 
the  other,  and  while  in  the  respective 
positions,  bore  the  %-in.  holes  %  in. 
deep  in  the  corner  blocks.  Glue  a 
dowel  in  each  %-in.  hole  of  the  small 


331 


pieces,  allowin,?  it  to  project  Vi  in. 
on  the  under  side  so  it  will  fit  in  the 
%-in.  hole  in  the  corner  block.  Be 
sure  to  countersink  the  holes  for  the 
heads  of  the  bolts.  All  bolts  should  be 
fitted  with  wing  nuts.  All  that  is 
necessary  to  change  from  one  angle  to 
another  is  to  loosen  the  nuts  and  swing 
the  small  pieces  around  so  the  dowel 
pins  will  drop  into  the  other  holes, 
then  tighten  the  nuts. 

The  triangle  clamp  is  made  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  picture-frame 
clamp,  except  that  the  arms  L  and  M, 
Figs.  3  and  3,  are  half-lapped  into  the 
crosspiece  P.  The  bolt  O  is  %  in. 
and  the  head  is  cut  off.  Drill  a  %-in. 
hole  in  the  bolt,  1/4  in-  from  the  end, 
and  bore  a  %-in.  hole  in  the  end  of  the 
arm  N.  Insert  the  headless  bolt  O 
in  this  hole  and  drive  a  nail  through 
the  side  of  the  arm  N,  so  it  will  pass 
through  the  hole  drilled  in  the  bolt. 
This  keys  the  bolt  in  the  end  of  the 
arm  N. 

To  clamp  a  picture  frame,  set  the 
corner  blocks  G,  H,  I  and  J  to  the  90- 
deg.  angles  and  adjust  them  on  the 
arms  A,  B,  C  and  D  to  accommodate 
the  size  frame  to  be  made,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1.  Tighten  the  thumbnut  on  the 
bolt  K,  and  this  will  draw  all  four 
corners  together  with  the  same  pres- 
sure. The  corners  can  then  be  ex- 
amined to  see  if  they  fit  properly.  If 
they  do  not,  saw  in  the  joints  with  a 
hacksaw  until  they  do  fit. 

The  triangles  are  clamped  in  the 
same  way.  The  corner  blocks  are  set 
to  take  the  proper  angles.  The  ends 
of  the  bolts  should  be  slightly  burred 
over  so  that  the  thumbnuts  cannot  be 
turned  of?. — Contributed  by  Chas.  A. 
Pettit,  Baltimore,  Md. 


Exterior  Sliding  Fly  Screen 

The  method  shown  for  fitting  fly 
screens  on  the  outside  of  the.upper  and 
lower  sash  permits  the  screen  to  be 
raised  and  held  at  different  heights. 
Screweyes  are  turned  into  the  outer 
strips,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  sides 
of  the  screen  frame  are  grooved,  Fig. 


2,  to  allow  it  to  slide  up  and  down  on 
the  screweyes. 

The  screen  can  be  raised  and  two  of 
the  screweyes  turned  from  the  normal 
vertical  position,  A,  Fig.  3,  to  a  hori- 


^#^°°" 


The  Heads  of  the  Screweyes  in   the  ■Windo\v-Frame 
Stop  Slide  in  a  Groove  Cut  in  the  Screen  Frame 

zontal  position,  B,  to  hold  the  frame  at 
that  point.  By  the  use  of  a  greater 
number  of  screweyes  more  places  can 
be  provided  to  support  the  screen 
at  dififerent  heights. — Contributed  by 
James  M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 

Bushing   a   Stovepipe   in   a 
Chimney  Hole 

When  a  stovepipe  is  too  small  for 
the  hole  in  the  chimney,  a  bushing 
can  be  made  of  the  kind  of  metal  to- 
bacco boxes  that  are  curved  to  fit  in 
a  pocket.  Remove  the  tops  and  bot- 
toms of  the  boxes  and  shove  them  in 
around  the  pipe.  If  such  tobacco 
boxes  are  not  at  hand,  tin  cans  of  any 
kind  can  be  used  by  melting  ofif  the 
tops  and  bottoms  and  bending  the  re- 
maining cylindrical  shells  into  proper 
shape. — Contributed  by  Elmer  Mc- 
Conaughy,  Dayton,  O. 


A  Screweye  Driver 
An   ordinary   wire    nail,   3   in.    long, 
bent  as  shown  and  with  its  head  filed 
square,   makes   a   good   tool    for  turn- 
ing  in   screweyes.     The 
square    head    is    readily 
held    in    the    chuck    on 
most  braces.  The  screw- 
eye    can    be    turned    in 
with  greater  speed  than 
by  the  ordinary  method. 
— Contributed  by  Robert 
T.      Johnston,      Buffalo, 


^^ 


York. 


232 


Copying    Stand   for   Photographic 
Enlarging  and  Reducing 

A  camera  stand  or  table,  which  can 
be  put  to  many  uses,  is  easily  made 
and,  when  made,  will  be  of  particular 
service,    says   Work,    London,   for  en- 


F,o2  ''"''' 

Camera  Stand  for  Use  in  Copying   and   Enlarging, 
as  Well  as  for  Making  Lantern  Slides 

larging,  reducing,  copying,  and,  with  a 
slight  modification,  for  making  lantern 
slides  by  reduction. 

Copying  with  a  camera  on  a  tripod 
is  always  a  more  or  less  complicated 
job,  because  of  the  ease  with  which  a 
picture,  being  focused,  may  be  thrown 
out  of  focus,  and  even  out  of  the  field 
of  view,  the  camera  not  being  attached 
to  the  same  support  as  the  picture. 
With  the  stand  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion, the  picture  is  attached  to  the 
same  support  as  the  camera.  This 
makes  it  possible  to  place  the  appa- 
ratus on  a  table,  out  in  the  open,  or  in 
any  other  suitable  position,  where  the 
light  may  he  best  for  the  work.  When 
used  for  enlarging  with  artificial  ligli.t 
it  will  also  he  found  convenient,  as  it 
may  be  placed  in  any  position  in  a 
darkened   room. 

The  size  of  the  stand  will  depend  on 
the  sizes  of  pictures  to  be  made,  but 
it  is  better  to  have  it  too  large  than 
too  small,  as  a  small  camera  can  be 
used  on  a  large  stand  while  a  small 
stand  would  be  of  only  limited  use. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  stand  is 


shown  in  Fig.  1.     The  material  list  is 
as  follows : 

2  Sides,    'A   in.  by  9^    in.   by  5  ft.,   S-2.S. 

4  Crosspieces,  '/,  in.  by  3  in.  by  1  ft.  7  in., 
S-2-S. 

4   Guides,    H    in.   by  l^i    in.    by  2  ft.   6  in..   S-2-S. 

2   Bottom   Pieces,   1   in.    by   9   in.    by   2   ft.    6   in., 
S-2-S 
"l  'Easel,    H   in.  by   1  ft.  6  in.   by  2  ft.,   S-2-S. 

2   Cleats,    'A    in.    by   V/i    in.    by   1   ft.  4  in.,    S-2-S. 

Straight-grained  soft  pine  or  poplar 
is  the  best  material  to  use.  The  side 
pieces  should  be  narrowed  at  one  end 
or  to  a  point  about  halfway  of  their 
length.  The  extent  of  this  narrowing 
will  depend  somewhat  on  circum- 
stances. The  guide  pieces  are  then  at- 
tached with  screws,  the  two  upper 
pieces  so  that  they  have  their  upper 
edges  flush  with  the  edges  of  the  side 
boards. 

The  bottom  piece,  on  which  the 
camera  is  to  be  set,  is  made  of  the  two 
pieces,  cut  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and 
joined  with  cleats,  as  in  Fig.  3.  The 
space  left  after  part  of  one  side  of  each 
board  has  been  cut  away,  should  be 
sufficient  to  make  a  slot  which,  when 
the  boards  are  joined  together,  will  ad- 
mit the  screw  to  hold  the  camera  in 
place.  A  rod  is  run  through  holes 
bored  in  the  sides,  just  below  the  two 
pairs  of  guides,  and  fitted  with  a  wing 
nut  for  clamping  the  sliding  bottom 
when  a  focus  and  the  size  of  the  pic- 
ture is  found. 

In  copying,  the  camera  is  attached 
to  the  bottom  board  and  the  picture  is 
tacked  to  the  easel.  The  camera  is 
then  focused  roughly  by  means  of  the 
rack  and  pinion,  the  final,  fine  focusing 
being  done  by  moving  the  sliding  bot- 
tom board.  For  enlarging,  the  lantern 
is  placed  on  the  sliding  bottom  and  the 
bromide  paper  tacked  to  the  easel. 

For  lantern-slide  work,  which  is  re- 
ducing, it  is  necessary  to  cut  an  aper- 
ture in  the  easel,  after  the  manner 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  The  edges  of  the 
opening  have  a  rabbet  to  receive  first 
a  ground  glass  and  then  the  negative, 
both  being  held  in  place  with  turn  but- 
tons. It  is  not  necessary  to  have  two 
easels,  as  this  opening  can  be  fitted 
with  a  piece  to  make  a  level  surface 
when  the  apparatus  is  used  for  copy- 
ing or  enlarging. 


233 


To  Make  Whitewash  Stick  to  Surfaces 

Coated 

In  using  whitewash  much  difficulty- 
is  experienced  in  making  it  sticl<  to  the 
substance  covered.  A  good  way  to  pre- 
vent the  coating  from  cracking  and 
peeling  off  is  to  add  2  oz.  of  pure 
sodium  chloride  to  every  1  gal.  of 
whitewash  mixture.  This  is  not  ex- 
pensive, but  should  be  secured  at  a 
drug  store  because  some  salts  of 
sodium  are  not  pure  and  will  darken 
the  whitewash.  The  sodium  chloride 
should  be  added  after  the  whitewash 
solution  is  made  up.  When  this  mix- 
ture is  used  in  buildings  it  will  destroy- 
all  vermin  which  it  touches. 


A  Mechanical  Camera 

The  young  person  who  likes  to  draw 
will  find  the  device  illustrated  of  great 
assistance  for  outlining  a  portrait  or  a 
bit  of  scenery  which  can  be  filled  in  to 
make  the  picture.  The  camera  con- 
sists of  a  box  without  a  cover,  aliout 
13  in.  long,  6  in.  wide  and  4  in.  deep. 
An  oblong  hole  is  cut  in  one  end,  a 
small  hole  bored  in  the  other,  and  a 
piece  cut  out  of  the  lower  edge  so  that 
one  eye  can  be  placed  close  to  the 
hole.  The  oblong  hole,  shown  by  the 
dotted  lines,  is  covered  with  a  fine  per- 
forated cardboard,  the  kind  used  for 
working  in  mottoes  with  yarn.  Sup- 
ports are  nailed  in  the  corners  of  the 
box,  their  length  being  calculated  to 
allow  the  oper- 
ator to  sit  or 
stand,  as  desired. 
The  camera  is 
used  in  the  man- 
n  e  r  illustrated. 
If  a  portrait  is  to 
be  drawn,  then 
the  one  sitting 
for  it  must  be 
quiet  until  the 
outlines  are 
completed.  The 
operator,  looking  through  the  hole, 
traces  the  lines  on  the  cardboard  be- 
tween the  perforations.  When  the  out- 
lines  are   drawn    in   this   manner,   the 


cardboard  is  removed  and  placed  on 
the  paper  or  cardboard  used  for  the 
picture.  The  outline  is  then  trans- 
ferred by  marking  with  a  sharp-pointed 


Outlining  a  Portrait 
on  the  Perforated 
Paper  Placed  over 
the  Oblong  Hole 
in    the    Camera 


pencil  through  the  perforations  on  the 
outlines  as  drawn.  After  separating 
the  two  pieces,  the  markings  can  be 
connected  with  a  continuous  line  and 
an  exact  outline  will  be  obtained  which 
can  be  filled  in  as  desired.  The  out- 
line picture  is  a  sample  of  work  done 
with  the  camera. — Contributed  by- 
Florence  Thomas,  Gordon,  Ont. 


Gauge  Attachment  for  a  Pocket  Rule 

The  base  of  the  gauge  A  is  cut  from 
a  block  of  hard 
wood,  about  2i/^ 
in.  long,  1  in. 
wide  and  %  in. 
thick.  A  notch 
is  cut  in  one 
side  to  admit  the 
rule  and  the 
wedge  B,  which 
has  a  slot  that  slides  on  a  pin  in  fhc 
base.  A  small  metal  clip  keeps  the 
wedge  in  place.  The  gauge  can  be 
readily  set  on  the  rule  at  any  mark. 


Plate  Hangers 

In  hanging  old  china  plates  for  deco- 
rative purposes  use  three  large  white 
dress  hooks,  placed  at  equal  distances 
apart  on  the  edge  of  the  plate.  The 
hanging  wire  or  cord  is  run  through 
them  from  the  back  side  and  drawn  up 
tightly.  These  hooks  are  much  better 
than  the  ordinary  plate  hanger,  as  they 
are  small  and  will  not  show  much  on 
the  plate. 


234 


An  Electrically  Operated  Camera 
Shutter 

It  is  often  quite  desirable  to  operate 
the  shutter  of  a  camera  from  a  distance, 
especially  in  photographing  birds  and 


The  Electro- 
magnet  Trips 
a  Spring    Plunger 
That  Forces 
a  Piston  on  the 
Camera  Air   Bulb 


animals.  The  device  shown  in  the 
accompanying  sketch  serves  the  above 
purpose  very  nicely,  and  its  construc- 
tion and  operation  are  exceedingly 
simple.  In  brief,  the  operation  is  as 
follows :  The  switch  A  is  mounted 
on  the  limb  of  a  tree,  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  is  not  conspicuous,  and  con- 
nected in  series  with  a  magnet,  B,  and 
a  battery  by  means  of  a  piece  of  flexible 
conductor,  such  as  lamp  cord.  The 
magnet  B  is  energized  when  the  switch 
is  closed  and  attracts  the  iron  armature 
C,  which  is  mounted  on  an  arm,  pivoted 
at  D.  The  lower  end  of  this  arm  is 
in  the  form  of  a  latch,  which  supports 
the  rod  E  when  it  is  raised  to  its  upper 
position.  The  rod  E  when  it  is  raised 
compresses  the  coiled  spring  F,  which 
is  held  between  the  gauge  G  and  the 
washer  H  mounted  on  the  rod.  A 
small  coil  spring  holds  the  armature 
C  away  from  the  core  of  the  magnet 
B.  The  lower  end  of  the  rod  E  is  in  the 
form  of  a  piston  operating  in  a  wooden 
cylinder  J.  The  rubber  bulb  at  the 
end  of  the  tube  leading  to  the  camera 
.shutter  is  located  in  the  lower  end  of 
the  cylinder  J.  When  the  rod  E  is 
released  by  the  latch  K,  it  moves  down- 
ward in  the  cylinder  J,  due  to  the  action 
of  the  spring  F,  and  compresses  the 
bulb  L,  causing  the  shutter  of  the 
camera  to  be  operated.    A  small  handle, 


M,  may  be  mounted  on  the  rod  to 
be  used  in  raising  it  to  the  upper 
position.  The  component  parts  of  this 
device  may  be  mounted  on  a  small 
wooden  base  by  means  of  brass  straps, 
and  the  terminals  of  the  electric  cir- 
cuit connected  to  the  binding  posts  N 
and  O,  as  shown.  The  switch  A  may 
be  dispensed  with  and  a  push  button 
used  in  its  place,  as  the  operator  may 
station  himself  several  hundred  feet 
away.  It  may  be  necessary  to  use  a 
battery  of  more  than  one  cell  in  such 
cases. 


Electroplating  without  a  Tank 

Electroplating  without  a  plating 
tank  is  made  possible  with  the  follow- 
ing easily  homemade  apparatus  de- 
scribed in  a  German  scientific  maga- 
zine. It  consists  of  a  rubber  ball,  A, 
fitted  at  one  end  with  a  glass  tube, 
B,  which  carries  at  the  opposite  end 
a  small  sponge.  A  rod,  D,  passes 
through  the  rubber  ball,  which  is 
tightly  corked  at  both  ends,  into  the 
glass  tube  B  and  carries  at  that  end 
the  anode  E.  A  small  glass  tube,  F, 
also  connects  the  rubber  ball  with  the 
larger  tube  B.  The  connections  from 
the  battery  to  the  cathode,  G,  the  ob- 
ject to  be  plated,  and  to  the  projecting 
end  of  the  anode-carrying  rod,  D,  are 
made  as  shown.  The  rubber  ball  is 
filled  with  the  electrolyte,  and  is 
squeezed    so    as    to    force    the    fluid 


A  Hand  Tool  for  Applying  a  Plate  Electrically  to 
the  Surface  of  Metal 

through  the  small  tube  F,  into  the 
larger  tube,  B,  filling  it  and  soaking 
the  sponge  C.  The  current  is  then 
turned  on,  and  by  moving  the  wet 
sponge  over  the  cathode  G,  the  latter 
will  be  plated.  Not  only  is  this  an 
interesting  accessory  for  the  amateur's 
laboratory,  but  it  can  be  used  in  the 


235 


industry  where  only  parts  of  some  ob- 
ject are  to  be  plated,  and  where  it  is 
desired  to  remedy  bad  spots  without 
putting  the  articles  back  into  the  bath. 


A  Milk-Bottle  Tray 

Bottled  milk  is  difficult  to  deliver 
without  knocking  the  bottles  together 
when  carrying  them  or  while  in  a 
wagon.  There  are  several  kinds  of 
wire  baskets  for  carrying  the  bottles, 
but  they  all  have  the  disadvantage  of 
allowing  the  bottles  to  strike  one  an- 
other. A  carrier  not  having  this  fault 
can  be  made  very  cheaply  as  follows : 
Procure  a  board  1  in.  thick,  8  in.  wide 
and  2  ft.  long,  plane  and  make  it 
smooth,  and  use  ordinary  tin  fruit  or 


Parts  of  Tin  Cans  Fastened  to  a   Board   for    Holding 
Milk  Bottles 

vegetable  cans  for  the  bottle  holders. 
Cut  each  can  off  21/^  in.  from  the  bot- 
tom and  smooth  ofif  the  jagged  edges 
with  a  file.  Nail  these  in  two  rows  on 
the  board,  starting  1  in.  from  each  end. 
Attach  a  segment  of  a  barrel  hoop  for  a 
handle.  The  carrier  can  be  painted  as 
desired. — Contributed  by  G.  H.  Clem- 
mons,  Storm  Lake,  Iowa. 


A  Springboard 

Select?  straight-grained  hickory  or 
ash  for  the  springboards.  These  can 
be  of  any  width  to  make  up  the  board 
to  18  in.  wide.  The  frame  part  may 
be  of  any  material  of  the  dimensions 
given  in  the  sketch.  The  butt  ends  of 
the  springboard  should  be  well  fastened 
to  the  crosspiece  with  screws,  or,  bet- 
ter still,  small  carriage  bolts  with  the 
nuts  on  the  under  side. 

The  crosspiece  at  the  rear  is  cut 
on  the  angle  of  the  springboard.     The 


front  crosspiece  is  mortised  into  the 
frame,  and  the  one  near  the  center 
is   laid   on   top   of  the   two   side   rails. 


A  Springboard  for  Use  in  Connection  with  a 
Vaulting  Pole  or  for  Turning  Acts 

The  rear  crosspiece  is  either  fastened 
with  large  dowels  or  mortised  into  the 
sidepieces.  This  springboard  will  be 
of  use  in  connection  with  a  back-yard 
gymnasium  for  vaulting  and  doing 
turning  acts. 


Planing  Rough-Grain  Boards 

The  surface  of  a  board  having  a 
grain  that  runs  both  ways  is  very  hard 
to  smooth  with  a  plane.  By  sharpen- 
ing the  plane  iron  to  a  keen  edge,  then 
placing  it  in  the  plane  with  the  cap 
reversed  and  set  about  rh  "t.  from  the 
cutting  edge,  I  find  that  with  a  light 
cut  the  plane  will  smooth  regardless 
of  the  direction  of  the  grain. — Con- 
tributed by  William  Rollins,  Wichita, 
Kansas. 


Braces  for  Aeroplane  Frames 

In  making  model  aeroplanes  or  glid- 
ers the  brace  shown  will  serve  the  pur- 
pose admirably.  The  size  and  strength 
of  the  metal  used  will  depend  on  where 
it   is  to   be  used.     The  metal   is   bent 


The  Braces  are  Cut 

from     Stake     Iron     or 

Sheet  Metal  According   to 

the  Size  Machine  being  Built 


into  the  shape  shown  with  the  use  of 
a  vise.  The  manner  of  attaching  the 
braces  is  clearly  shown. — Contributed 
by  Francis  Chetlain,  Chicago. 


336 


A  Puzzle  Purse 

The  puzzle  purse  is  made  of  four 
pieces  of  chamois,  two  of  the  pieces 
being  merely  flaps,  one  on  each  side 
at  the  upper  edge.     One  of  the  pieces 


i                       1 

i i 

The  Strips  of  Leather  Sliding  through   the   Stitches 
Make  the  Puzzle  Part  of  the   Purse 

forming  one  side  of  the  purse  ex- 
tends upward  for  about  twice  the 
height  of  the  purse  part.  The  part 
above  the  purse  has  a  number  of  slits 
cut  in  it  to  make  the  width  of  each 
strip  Yg  in.  These  slits  should  be  ac- 
curately cut  in  order  that  the  purse 
may  be  opened  easily.  The  other  half 
is  only  the  size  of  the  purse  proper. 
The  upper  edge  of  the  latter  piece  and 
the  flap  on  that  side  are  stitched  to- 
gether to  the  flap  on  the  opposite  side, 
the  threads  of  the  stitches  running  be- 
tween the  strips  of  the  long  piece. 
These  stitches  are  made  on  the  line 
AB  and  around  the  edge. 

To  open  the  purse,  take  hold  of  each 
side  on  the  purse  part  and  draw  the 
pieces  apart.  In  doing  so,  the  strips 
are  drawn  through  the  stitches  so  that 
they  may  be  separated  and  a  coin 
taken  from  the  purse.  A  pull  on  each 
end  will  close  the  purse. — Contributed 
by  Chas.  Motton,  Toronto,  Ont. 


An  Emergency  Sandpapering  Machine 

While  doing  some  work  I  had  sev- 
eral small  pieces  to  be  finished  with 
sandpaper.  They  were  so  small  and  of 
such  a  shape  that  it  was  impossible  to 
do  the  work  by  hand.  Not  having  a 
sanding  machine,  I  used  a  disk  talking 
machine  for  the  purpose.  I  placed  a 
sheet  of  sandpaper  over  the  disk  and 


fastened  it  to  the  felt  at  the  corners 
with  pins.  The  machine  was  then  set 
going  at  its  highest  rate  of  speed,  and 
the  articles  were  smoothed  by  holding 
them  on  the  disk. — Contributed  by 
Fred  S.  Barnard,  Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


A  Developing  Machine 

The  base  of  the  developing  machine 
consists  of  a  wood  tray  with  sloping 
ends  and  high  sides,  which  is  placed  at 
the  center  and  provides  bearings  for 
the  wheel  axle.  The  dimensions  given 
in  the  sketch  are  for  making  a  machine 
to  develop  a  film  about  2'J  in.  long. 
The  disk,  or  wheel,  is  cut  from  a  board, 
Yg  in.  thick,  and  the  attached  cross- 
pieces  are  cut  from  V^-'m.  dowels  to 
make  them  21/4  in.  long.  These  are 
placed  about  1  in.  apart  on  the  circum- 
ference of  the  disk. 

An  axle,  fastened  solidly  in  the 
wheel  and  adjusted  in  the  bearings,  is 
kept  from  slipping  sideways  by  bush- 
ings made  of  a  spool.  A  crank  is  at- 
tached to  one  end  of  the  axle.  Hot 
paraffin  is  applied  to  the  inside  of  the 
tank  part,  to  make  it  liquid-tight.  Two 
pins  or  hooks  are  attached  to  one  of  the 
crosspieces  to  catch  into  the  film  end. 
If  the  wheel  is  the  correct  size,  the 
same  pins  can  be  used  for  fastening  the 
other  end  of  the  film. 

The    film    is    first    attached    to    the 


i-gg^ 


The  Entire  Length  of  Film  is  Placed  on  the  Wheel 
Where  It  is  Run  through  the  Developer 

wheel ;  then,  while  turning  slowly,  the 
developer  is  poured  into  the  tray. 
Keep  on  turning  the  wheel  until  full 
development  is  obtained,  then  pour  out 
the    liquid    and    turn    in    fresh,    clear 


237 


water,  and  turn  the  wheel  to  wash  out 
the  developer.  Remove  the  film  and 
place  it  in  the  hypo  bath. — Contrib- 
uted by  Raymond  M.  Dealer,  Balti- 
more, Md. 


A  Stove-Wood  Carrier 

A  handy  wood  carrier,  for  bringing 
wood  and  kindling  from  the  basement 
or  yard  to  the  wood  box  in  the  house, 
may  be  made  from  a  grain  sack,  as 
shown  in  the  sketch.  Use  a  complete 
sack  and  make  rope  handles  at  each 
end.  When  used,  place  only  sufficient 
wood  or  kindling  in  it  to  permit  the 
handles  to  come  together  over  the  top 
of  the  load.  This  will  make  a  com- 
fortable grip  and  it  is  no  harder  to 
carry  than  a  medium-weight  suitcase. 
When  the  wood  is  removed  the  carrier 
can    be   taken    to   the   back   yard    and 


The  Ropes  at  the  Ends  of  the  Sack  Make  a 
Handle  to  Carry  It  Like  a  Grip 

shaken  out,  thus  doing  away  with  the 
dirt  that  usually  results  from  other 
methods  of  filling  wood  boxes. — Con- 
tributed by  Walter  Nelson  Kidston, 
Seattle,  Wash. 


A  Pencil  Sharpener 

A  pencil  sharpened  with  the  device 
shown  will  have  a  better  point  and  one 
that  will  not  break  easily  while  being 
sharpened.  The  lower  arm  A  is  made 
from  a  strip  of  sheet  steel,  jV  in.  thick. 
An  extension,  Vi  in.  wide,  is  cut  and 
bent  in  a  circle  to  form  the  lower  finger 
hold.  The  upper  arm  B  forms  the  cut- 
ter, which  is  made  from  a  piece  of  hack- 
saw blade.  The  teeth  are  ground  off 
and  the  temper  is  drawn  from  the  ex- 
tension that  forms  the  upper  circle.  A 
portion  of  the  arm  A  is  bent  over,  as 
shown  at  C,  to  form  a  support  for  the 
pencil  point  to  rest  upon.  A  hole, 
large  enough  for  a  pencil  to  turn  in,  is 
bored  through  a  stick  of  hardwood,  D, 
and  tapered  so  that  the  center  of  the 


hole  meets  the  inner  edge  of  C.  It 
is  fastened  to  the  lower  arm  with 
screws.    A  sharp  cutting  edge  is  ground 


A  Pencil  Sharpener 
That  will    Make 
a  Point  without      Q 

Breaking  the   Lead 


on  the  blade  which  is  then  attached  to 
the  arm  A  with  a  rivet  loosely  enough 
to  swing  freely. — Contributed  by  J.  V. 
Loeftler,   Evansville,   Ind. 


Cleaning  an  Oilstone 

Use  kerosene  oil  and  a  sprinkling  of 
emery  flour  and  proceed  to  sharpen 
tools.  It  is  not  necessary  to  clean  a 
stone  thus  treated  before  placing  the 
tool  on  it,  as  the  emery  and  kerosene 
will  make  a  good  surface  on  the  stone 
as  well  as  assisting  in  producing  a 
sharp  edge  on  the  tool. — Contributed 
by  James  M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Landing   for   Small   Boats 

Not  having  a  landing  for  my  small 
boat,  I  made  a  series  of  sectional  plat- 
forms, rising  2  ft.  above  the  bottom, 
which  served  the  purpose  well  and 
were  inexpensive.  Each  section  is 
about  15  ft.  long,  3  ft.  wide,  and  2  ft. 
high.  The  frame  is  made  of  material 
2  in.  thick  and  4  in.  wide,  and  on  top 
is  a  floor  made  of  boards,  while  the 
bottom  consists  of  2  by  4-in.  cross- 
pieces,  nailed  on  6  in.  apart.  Stones 
are  laid  on  these  crosspieces  to  moor 
it  down  in  place.  The  whole  landing 
is  simple  to  make  and  it  lasts  a  long 


The  Series  of  Platforms  Make  a  Good  Small-Boat 
Landing  on  a  Slanting  Beach 

time,  as  the  sections  can  be  drawn  out 
and  stored  during  the  winter. — Con- 
tributed by  Henry  Briggs,  Lexington, 
Massachusetts. 


238 


Bearings  for  Model  Work 

For  experimental  work  I  use  hang- 
ers or  bearings  made  of  sheet  brass  or 
copper,  bent  at  right  angles  for  strength 


Sheet-Copper  Support 
with  a  Base  and  a 
Shaft  BearingSoldered 
to  the  Ends 


and  capped  with  a  box.  The  main  part 
of  the  bearing  A  is  shaped  as  shown, 
and  the  box  B  consists  of  a  small  piece 
cut  from  a  brass  rod  and  drilled  for 
the  size  of  the  shaft.  The  box  is 
soldered  to  the  top  end  of  A  and  the 
base  C  to  the  bottom  end.  When  a 
large  metal  base  is  used  for  a  certain 
model,  the  part  A  is  attached  directly 
to  that  base  and  the  part  C  need  not 
be  used. 

The  bearings  can  be  made  in  differ- 
ent heights,  each  of  which  will  de- 
mand a  corresponding  size  and  thick- 
ness of  the  parts.  Sheet  brass  or  cop- 
per, 3^2  in-  thick,  is  about  right  for  a 
bearing  3  in.  high. — Contributed  by 
W.  E.  Day,  Pittsfield,  Mass. 


Holding  the  Tongue  of  a  Shoe  in 
Place 

The  tongue  in  a  shoe  will  often  slip 
down  or  over  to  one  side  or  the  other 
and    expose    the    hose.     To    overcome 


The  Hook  on  the  Tongue  of  the  Shoe  and  Manner  of 
Lacing  to  Hold  the  Tongue 

this  and  have  the  tongue  fit  snugly  in 
the  right  place,  fasten  a  common  lace 
clasp    or    hook    near   the   top    of    the 


tongue,  as  shown  in  the  illustration, 
so  that  in  lacing  the  shoe  the  laces  are 
passed  under  the  hook  to  hold  the 
tongue  in  place. 


A  Photo  Vignetter 

Procure  a  piece  of  heavy  wire,  one 
that  is  fairly  stiff,  says  Camera  Craft, 
and  a  pair  of  pliers  and  bend  the  wire 
with  the  pliers  as  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration. After  the  loop  is  made  to  fit 
around  the  lens  barrel  the  wire  is  bent 
at  right  angles  at  a  point  6  in.  below 
the  circle.  At  a  distance  of  8  in.  on 
the  extending  part  of  the  wire  it  is 
bent  as  shown  to  form  a  clip  for  hold- 
ing a  sheet  of  cardboard. 

The  cardboard  should  be  about  7  in. 
wide  and  of  dark  color,  with  one  edge 
cut    semicircular    and    notched.      The 


■AaAA  A/> /W^'*'^ 


.^••i 


The    Arm  for  Holding 

the  Vignette  Cardboard  is 

Made  of  a  Heavy  Piece  of  Wire 

size  of  the  wire  and  the  other  measure- 
ments will  depend  upon  the  size  and 
focal  lengfh  of  the  lens.  If  a  heavy 
vignetting  card  is  required,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  make  the  portion  that  en- 
circles the  lens  double  in  length,  bend- 
ing it  back  upon  itself  to  secure  a 
firmer  hold.  This  is  a  cheap  and  effi- 
cient vignetter  that  anyone  can  make 
in  a  few  moments  of  spare  time. 


Pocket  for  the  Inside  of  a  Book  Cover 

Students  or  anyone  wishing  to  re- 
tain notes  on  a  subject  will  find  it  quite 
handy  to  have  a  large  envelope  pasted 
in  the  back  of  each  textbook.  Instead 
of  having  notes  all  through  the  book, 
they  can  be  arranged  in  order  and 
slipped  into  the  envelope.  If  the  book 
is  accidentally  dropped,  the  notes  will 
not  be  lost. — Contributed  by  Harold 
Mynning,  Chicago,  111. 


239 


Cleaning   Steel   of   Grease   and   Stains 

Grease  and  stains  can  be  easily  re- 
moved from  steel  with  a  mixture  of  un- 
slaked lime  and  chalk  powder,  by  rub- 
bing it  on  the  steel  with  a  dry  cloth. 
The  best  proportion  for  the  mixture, 
which  is  easily  prepared,  is  1  part  of 
lime  to  1  part  of  chalk  powder.  The 
powder  should  be  used  dry.  It  is  kept 
in  cans  for  future  use  and  can  be  used 
over  and  over  aj;ain. — Contributed  by 
Loren  Ward,  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 


An    Electrically    Ignited    Flash    Light 
for  Making  Photographs 

The  results  obtained  in  a  great  many 
cases  in  trying  to  take  pictures  by  flash- 
light are  exceedingly  unsatisfactory,  as 
the  expression  on  the  faces  of  the  peo- 
ple in  the  picture  usually  is  strained 
or  uimatural,  due  to  the  suspense  in 
waiting  for  the  flash.  The  following 
simple  device  avoids  this  difficulty  be- 
cause the  flash  is  set  off  by  means  of 
electricity,  so  that  the  operator  can 
control  the  flash  from  a  distant  point 
and  thus  be  able  to  take  the  picture 
quite  unawares  to  his  subjects. 

The  construction  of  the  device  is  as 
follows :  Obtain  a  piece  of  rather 
heavy  sheet  iron,  about  6  in.  wide  and 
10  in.  long.  Bend  this  piece  of  iron 
into  the  forrti  shown  in  the  sketch,  and 
fasten  a  wooden  handle  to  it  with  a 
wood  screw.  Obtain  a  sheet  of  Vs-in. 
sheet  asbestos,  the  same  size  as  the 
piece  of  sheet  iron,  and  glue  it  to 
the  inside  surface  of  the  curved  piece 
of  iron.  It  is  best  to  fasten  the 
four  corners  down  by  means  of  some 
small  rivets  with  rather  large  washers 
under  the  heads  next  to  the  asbestos. 

Now  mount  two  pieces  of  sheet  cop- 
per, Y2  in.  wide  and  6  in.  long,  parallel 
with  each  other  on  the  surface  of  the 
asbestos  and  114  in.  apart,  so  that  their 
ends  are  even  with  the  end  of  the  piece 
of  asbestos.  These  pieces  of  copper 
should  be  insulated  from  the  piece  of 
sheet  iron,  and  there  should  be  a  small 
screw  in  one  end  of  each  and  a  small 
binding  post  mounted  on  the  other  end. 

Procure  a  piece  of  lamp  cord,  1.5  or 


20  ft.  in  length.  Fasten  an  ordinary 
plug  to  one  end  of  this  cord  and  the 
other   end   to   the   two   binding  posts. 

The    Asbestos-Lined 

Tray    and    the   Wiring 

onnections  for  Attaching 

to  the  Electric-Light  Wires 


Open  one  of  the  conductors  in  the  cord 
at  some  point  and  introduce  a  single- 
pole  switch,  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
Close  the  gap  between  the  two  pieces 
of  copper  by  means  of  a  piece  of  No. 
32  gauge  copper  wire.  Place  the  flash- 
light powder  in  position,  but  do  not 
cover  up  the  wire  or  have  it  in  actual 
contact  with  the  powder,  and  close  the 
circuit.  The  operator  may  include 
himself  in  the  picture  by  having  a  suf- 
ficiently long  piece  of  lamp  cord  and 
the  switch  properly  arranged. 


A  Simple  Twine-Ball  Holder 

In  looking  for  a  place  to  put  a  twine 
ball  I  happened  to  see  a  tin  funnel 
and  it  gave  me 
the  idea  which  I 
put  into  practice. 
I  punched  three 
holes  at  equal 
distances  apart 
in  its  upper  edge 
and  attached 
three  strings 
which  were  run 
to  an  apex  and 
tied  to  a  screw- 
eye  in  the  ceil- 
ing. The  end 
of  t  h  e  twine 
from  the  center 
of  the  ball  was 
run  through  the 
funnel  stem  and 
allowed  to  hang 
as  in  an  ordi- 
nary ball  holder. — Contributed  by  W. 
C.  Loy,  Rochester,  Ind. 


CA  filler  for  birch,  red  gum  and  beech 
can  be  made  of  1  lb.  of  bleached  shellac 
to  each  gallon  of  water. 


240 


A  Toy  Popgun 

A  toy  popgun  can  be  easily  made 
of  two  blocks  of  hard  wood,  I/2  in- 
thick;  a  joint  of  bamboo,  about  %  'i- 
in  diameter  and  6  in.  long;  a  small 
hinge,  a  piece  of  spring  steel,  %  '"■ 
wide  and  1  in.  long,  and  a  piece  of 
soft  wood  for  the  plunger. 

The  plunger  A  is  cut  to  fit  snugly, 
yet  so  it  will  move  easily  in  the  piece 
of  bamboo  B.  One  of  the  blocks  of 
hard  wood,  C,  is  bored  to  fit_  one  end 
of  the  bamboo,  the  other  block  has 
a  i/4-in.  hole  bored,  to  center  the  hole 
in  the  first  block.  The  two  blocks  are 
hinged  and  the  spring  latch  attached 
as  shown  in  the  sketch.  The  spring 
has  a  hole  drilled  so  it  can  be  fastened 
with  a  screw  to  the  outer  block,  and 


Detail  of  Popgun,  Showing  the    Parts    Assembled  and 
Position  of  the  Paper 

a  slot  cut  in  the  other  end  to  slip 
over  a  staple  driven  into  the  block  C. 
A  piece  of  paper,  D,  is  placed  in 
between  the  blocks  while  the  plunger 
A  is  out  at  the  end  of  the  bamboo. 
A  quick  pressure  on  the  plunger  A 
will  cause  the  paper  D  to  break  out 
through  the  small  opening  with  a 
loud  pop. — Contributed  by  Paul  H. 
Burkhart,   Blue   Island,  III. 


A  Non-Rolling  Thread  Spool 

A  spool  of  thread  may  be  kept  from 
rolling  by  gluing  squares  of  cardboard 
to  the  ends.  The 
squares  should 
be  a  little  larger 
than  the  spool. 
This  will  save 
many  a  step  and 
much  bending 
over  to  pick  up 
the  spool.  The 
spool,  when  it 
falls,  will  stop  where  it  landed. — Con- 
tributed by  Katharine  D.  Morse,  Syra- 
cuse, N.  Y. 


Shoe-Shining  Stand 

To  anyone  who  finds  it  tiresome  to 
shine  his  shoes  while  putting  the  foot 
on  the   rim  of  a  bathtub,  on  a  cook- 


Dimensioned    Parts   and  Completed  Stand    Which 
has  a  Box  to  Hold  the  Shining  Outfit 

Stove  or  chair  with  a  newspaper  on  it, 
the  Stand  here  described  will  afford 
relief  and  at  the  same  time  he  will 
always  have  the  shining  outfit  ready 
for  use. 

The  whole  is  of  pine,  the  foot  rest 
being  made  of  a  piece  2  by  4  in. ;  the 
legs,  of  1  by  2  in.,  and  the  bottom  of 
the  box,  of  1/2  by  4^4  in.  All  other 
dimensions  are  given  in  the  sketch. 
After  the  legs  are  attached  and  the 
bottom  of  the  box  in  place,  the  sides 
are  fitted  and  fastened  with  nails. — 
Contributed  by  Samuel  Hughs,  Berke- 
ley, Cal. 


Cutter  Made  of  a  Wafer 
Razor  Blade 

A  useful  instrument  for  seamstresses 
and  makers  of  paper  patterns  and 
stencils  can  be  made  of  a  piece  of  steel 


The  Wafer    Blade    Attached    to    the  Handle,  the  Top 
Edge  being  Protected  w/ith  a  Cork 

or  iron  and  a  wafer  razor  blade.  The 
end  of  the  metal  is  flattened  and  two 
holes  drilled  to  match  the  holes  of  the 
razor  blade.  Small  screw  bolts  are 
used  to  attach  the  blade  to  the  handle. 
Place  a  cork  on  one  edge  as  a  protec- 
tion for  the  hand  of  the  user. — Con- 
tributed by  Maurice  Baudier,  New 
Orleans,  La. 


241 


To    Hold    a    Negative    in   a    Printing 
Frame 

When  printing  postal  cards  and 
working  fast,  it  always  bothered  me  to 
hold  the  negative  in  the  printing  frame 
vi^hile  removing  the  card.  To  over- 
come this  trouble  I  decided  to  contrive 
some  arrangement  to  hold  the  negative 
in  the  frame  when  the  back  was  re- 
moved. The  device  I  made  consists 
of  a  thin,  flat  spring,  about  Vs  in.  wide 
and  as  long  as  the  width  of  the  frame 
opening.  Two  lugs  are  formed  and 
soldered  to  the  ends,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1,  for  holding  the  plate,  and  a  central 
lug  is  soldered  on  to  provide  a  means 
of  fastening  the  spring  in  position.  A 
groove,  about  ■j',,  in.  deep,  was  cut  in 
the  opposite  end  of  the  frame  to  re- 
ceive one  end  of  the  negative. 

In  use,  slide  the  plate  into  the  frame 
and  into  the  lugs  on  the  spring,  and 
push  the  spring  upward  until  the  plate 
can  be  slipped  into  the  slot  at  the 
opposite  end  of  the  frame.  The  pres- 
sure of  the  spring,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
will    hold    the    plate    securely.      The 


J^ 


m^- 


JlX 


iiiiilliimj 


The  Spring   with    Its  Clips   and   Manner  of  Holding  a 
Negative  in  a  Printing  Frame 

frame  can  be  handled  quite  roughly 
and  as  fast  as  desired  without  any 
danger  of  the  plate  falling  out. — Con- 
tributed by  Thos.  L.  Parker,  Wibaux, 
Montana. 


CA  number  of  bright  tin  disks  tied  to 
the  limbs  of  a  fruit  tree  will  prove  an 
efficient  means  of  driving  away  infest- 
ing birds. 


How  to  Make  an  Electrolytic 
Interrupter 

Obtain  a  glass  jar  or  wide-mouth 
bottle  about  one-quart  size.  An  or- 
dinary round  bottle  will  serve  very 
nicely  by  having  the  top  cut  off,  thus 
forming  a  glass 
jar.  Make  a  top 
for  the  jar  from 
a  piece  of  %-in. 
pine  similar  to 
the  one  shown  in 
the  illustration. 
The  lower  por- 
tion extends 
down  inside  the 
jar  and  serves  to 
hold  the  top  in 
place.  Cut  a  slot 
in  this  top,  %  in. 

wide  and  2  in.  1^^^^=^-=^^^^^^^ 
long.  This  slot 
should  be  cut  at  right  angles  to  a  diam- 
eter of  the  top  and  extend  1  in.  on 
either  side  of  the  diameter.  It  should 
be  about  I/2  in.  from  the  center  of  the 
top.  Directly  opposite  the  center  of 
the  slot  drill  a  %-in  hole,  I/2  hi.  from 
the  center  of  the  top.  Drill  a  Vi-in. 
hole  in  the  center  of  the  top  to  give 
ventilation  to  the  jar.  Boil  the  com- 
pleted top  in  paraffin  for  a  few 
minutes. 

Obtain  a  piece  of  %-in.  sheet  lead,  2 
in.  wide  and  about  i/o  in.  longer  than 
the  depth  of  the  jar.  Mount  a  small 
binding  post  on  one  end  of  this  piece 
of  lead  and  then  support  it  in  the  slot 
in  the  wooden  top  by  means  of  two 
metal  pins.  The  lower  end  of  the 
piece  of  lead  should  be  at  least  i/o  in. 
from  til*  bottom  of  the  jar.  Next  get 
a  piece  of  %-in.  glass  tube  and  fuse  a 
piece  of  platinum   wire  into  one  end. 


24£ 


Make  sure  the  inside  end  of  the  plati- 
num wire  is  not  covered  with  the  glass, 
and  that  the  outside  end  protrudes  a 
short  distance  beyond  the  end  of  the 
glass  tube.  Now  bend  about  %  in.  of 
the  end  of  the  glass  tube  which  has 
the  platinum  in  it  over  at  right  angles 
to  the  remainder  of  the  tube.  The  tube 
should  then  be  placed  in  the  opening 
on  the  wooden  top  provided  for  it  and 
a  rubber  band  placed  around  it  to  pre- 
vent it  dropping  through  the  opening. 
The  lower  end  of  the  tube  should  be  a 
little  higher  than  the  lower  end  of  the 
sheet  of  lead.  A  small  quantity  of 
mercury  should  be  placed  in  the  tube 
and  a  bare  copper  wire  run  down  in- 
side. The  mercury  affords  a  connec- 
tion between  the  piece  of  platinum  in 
the  end  of  the  tube  and  the  copper 
wire.  Connect  the  outside  end  of  the 
copper  wire  under  a  binding  post  and 


A  Homemade  Hand  Drill  Press 

The  little  use  I  had  for  a  drill  press 
did  not  make  it  advisable  to  purchase 
one,  so  I  constructed  a  device  for  drill- 
ing iron  and  brass  which  answered  all 
purposes.  A  broken  carpenter's  brace 
furnished  the  chuck,  which  was  fas- 
tened -to  a  i/o-in.  shaft  having  a  de- 
tachable crank.     The  shaft  turns  in  a 


<=ct 


= =u. . 

f^          1 

If 

s    o   e 

-^    .       S 

a  J.   © 

«.   ©    e 

^mir 

V 

] 

^               1 

A  Very  Inexpensive  Drill  Press  Frame  Which  Answers 
the  Purpose  Admirably 

brass  tube  which  is  fitted  tightly  in  a 
hole  bored  in  the  upright.  The  slid- 
ing part  or  table  is  forced  up  against 
the   drill   with   a   V2-in-   machine   bolt. 


the  interrupter  is  complete  with  the 
exception  of  the  solution. 

The  solution  for  the  interrupter  is 
dilute  sulphuric  acid  made  by  mixing 
about  four  parts  of  water  and  one  part 
of  acid.  In  preparing  this  mixture, 
be  sure  to  pour  the  acid  into  the  water, 
not  the  water  into  the  acid.  The  jar 
should  be  about  two-thirds  filled.  At 
least  40  volts  will  be  required  for  the 
satisfactory  operation  of  the  inter- 
rupter. The  distance  between  the 
platinum  point  and  the  lead  sheet  may 
be  adjusted  by  simply  turning  the  glass 
tube. 

No  condenser  will  be  required  in 
operating  an  inductor  coil  with  an 
interrupter  of  this  kind.  The  make- 
and-break  interrupter,  if  there  is  one 
in  circuit,  should  of  course  be  made 
inoperative  by  screwing  up  the  contact 
point  against  the  spring. 


The  bolt  turns  in  a  square  nut  fas- 
tened in  the  opposite  post.  The  end 
of  the  screw  bears  on  a  plate  fastened 
on  the  under  side  of  the  table  to  pre- 
vent wear.  A  crank  could  be  attached 
to  this  bolt  so  that  it  may  be  turned 
more   easily. 

The  sliding  or  table  part  is  made 
of  a  post  similar  to  the  end  posts,  but 
with  guides  attached  so  as  to  keep  it 
in  place.  The  holes  for  the  chuck  shaft 
and  bolt  should  be  bored  on  a  line  and 
exactly  in  the  center  of  the  posts. — 
Contributed  by  L.  R.  Kelley,  Phil- 
adelphia, Pa. 


A  Hose  Nozzle 

The  nozzle  shown  in  the  accompany- 
ing sketch  was  made  from  an  empty 
tobacco  can  having  an  oval  shape.  I 
cut  the  can  in  two  near  the  center  and 
punched  small  holes  in  the  bottom. 
I  then  cut  a  piece  of  V^-in.  board  to  fit 
tightly  in  the  end  of  the  can  and  turned 
the  edges  of  the  tin  down  to  hold  it 
in  place.  A  hole  was  bored  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  wood  and  a  Yo-'m.  hose  coup- 
ling fitted  in  it.  The  water  will  swell 
the  wood  enough  to  make  an  abso- 
lutely watertight  joint,  but  by  using  a 


243 


little  care  in   fitting  it,  the  joint  will 
be  watertight  without  the  swelling. 

The  holes  being  punched  in  straight 
lines,  the  nozzle  throws  a  rectangular 
section  of  tine  streams,  which  makes  it 
possible  to  sprinkle  close  up  to  walks 
without  wetting  them.  The  friction 
is  much  less  than  in  the  ordinary  hose 
nozzle,  and  consequently  this  nozzle 
delivers  more  water  and  also  materially 


smooth  edge  of  the  iron  band  over  the 
glass.     It  requires  only  a  short  time  of 


The  Oval  Form  of  the  Box  Makes  It  Possible  to 
Sprinkle  Close  Up  to  Walks 

reduces  the  strain  on  the  hose. — Con- 
tributed by  J.  B.  Downer,  Seattle, 
Washington. 


An   Electric  Water   Heater 

A  simple  electric  water  heater  may 
be  made  as  follows:  Procure  two 
sheets  of  copper,  each  4  by  6  in.,  and 
place  pieces  of  wood  or  other  insulat- 
ing material  at  the  corners  to  keep 
them  about  %  in.  apart.  Bind  them 
with  cords,  or,  if  the  wood  pieces  are 
large  enough,  use  screws  so  that  there 
will  be  no  contact  between  the  plates. 
Attach  wires  to  the  plates  with  solder 
as  shown,  and  make  connections  to  a 
plug.     Pour  water  in  an   earthenware 


An  Inexpensive  Electric  Water  Heater  Made  of  Two 
Copper  Plates 

jar,  place  the  plates  in  it  and  turn  the 
plug  in  a  lamp  socket.  Do  not  use  a 
metal  vessel. — Contributed  by  G. 
Henry  Jones,  Sylacauga,  Ala. 


Frosting  Glass 

Procure  a  piece  of  flat  iron  similar  to 
an  iron  hoop,  bend  it,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  to  make  a  piece  3  in.  long  and 
1^/4  in.  wide  and  file  one  edge  smooth. 
Sprinkle  some  fine  lake  sand  over  the 
glass,  dampen   the  sand  and  rub  the 


The  Filed  Edge  on  the  Coiled  Metal  Retains  the  Sand 
Particles  as  It  is  Rubbed  over  the  Glass  Surface 

rubbing  to  produce  a  beautiful  frosted 
surface  on  the  glass. — Contributed  by 
M.  E.  Duggan,  Kenosha,  Wis. 


Long   Handle  for  a   Dustpan 

The  dustpan  is  a  rather  unhandy 
utensil  to  use,  especially  for  stout  per- 
sons. One  porter  overcame  this  diffi- 
culty by  attaching  a  long 
handle  to  the  pan  as  shown 
in  the  illustration.  The  han- 
dle was  taken  from  a  dis- 
carded broom  and  a 
yoke  of  heavy  wire 
was  attached  to  it, 
the  ends  being  bent  to 
enter  holes  punched  in  the  upturned 
edge  of  the  pan.  A  stout  cord,  fas- 
tened to  the  handle  and  tied  into  the 
ring  of  the  dustpan  handle,  keeps  the 
pan  from  turning  backward,  and  it  is 
thus  possible  to  push  it  or  carry  it 
with  the  long  handle. 


To  Fasten  Chair  Legs 

Chair  legs  often  become  loose  when 
chairs  are  handled  roughly,  so  that 
the  glue  is  broken  up.  A  small  de- 
vice made  from  a  piece  of  pointed 
metal.  A,  which  is  securely  fastened 
to  the  end  of  the  chair  leg  by  means 
of  a  screw,  will  hold  the  legs  more 
firmly  than  wire  or  glue.     \Mien  the 


A 


/ 

f 

? 

\ 

The  Metal   on   the   End  of  the  Leg  Fastens  It  Solidly 
in  Place 

leg  is  driven  into  the  hole,  the  points 
are  pushed  into  the  wood  B  as  the 
metal  flattens. 


244 


Disk-Throwing  Pistol 

A  pistol  for  throwing  small  disks  of 
paper  or  metal  balls,  can  be  easily 
made  at  almost  no  expense  as  shown 
in  the   sketch.     Two  pieces  of  board, 


Disks  of  Paper  or  Metal 
as  V/ell  as  Shot  may  be 
Thrown  with  This  Pistol 


one  of  which  is  shaped  to  the  form  of  a 
pistol,  are  hinged  together  and  a  fairly 
strong  spiral  spring  is  fastened  at  the 
front  end  of  the  movable  piece  and  the 
middle  of  the  other.  A  slot  is  sawed 
in  the  movable  piece  to  hold  the  disk, 
or  a  small  round  depression  may  be 
formed  in  it  to  receive  a  bean,  pea, 
or  shot.  The  movable  arm  is  folded 
back  and  held  in  position  by  means  of 
a  stirrup  of  wire  fastened  on  the  other 
part.  When  the  movable  part  is  disen- 
gaged by  pulling  the  stirrup  away  with 
the  finger,  the  disk  will  be  thrown  with 
considerable  force,  depending  on  the 
strength  of  tlie  spring. 


Displaying  Dye  Colors 

A  certain  druggist  utilized  old 
electric  bulbs  for  displaying  dye  colors. 
Water  was  colored  with  a  dye  and  the 
end  of  a  bulb  dipped  into  the  liquid. 
Then  the  tip  end  was  broken  off,  and 

Globes  Filled  with  Colored 
^Vater, Representing   the 
Different  Colors  of  Dyes 
Carried  in  Stock 


A  ring-shaped  piece,  15  in.  in  diam- 
eter and  2V2  in.  wide,  was  cut  from 
a  piece  of  board,  and  1-in.  holes  bored. 
21/2  in.  apart,  in  one-half  of  the  ring. 
The  globes  holding  the  colored  water 
were  set  in  these  holes  and  a  light  with 
a  round  shade  placed  in  the  center. 
It  proved  to  be  an  attractive  display 
and  a  good  method  of  showing 
the  colors. — Contributed  by  Maurice 
Baudier,  New  Orleans,  La. 


the  bulb  being  a  vacuum,  the  colored 
water  was  drawn  into  it,  and  filled  the 
globe.  The  point  was  then  sealed  with 
paraffin. 


A  Homemade  Bench  Vise 

A  serviceable  and  inexpensive  bench 
vise  can  be  made  in  the  following  man- 
ner: Procure  a  piece  of  hard  wood,  1 
in.  thick,  and  shape  it  into  an  eccentric 
with  an  extending  handle,  as  shown  at 
A.  The  jaws  B  are  made  of  material 
2  in.  thick,  and  the  drawbar  C  is  a  2 


A  Vise  That  can    be  Quickly    Constructed   Where  No 
Bench  Vise  is  at  Hand 

by  3-in.  piece  of  hickory.  The  outer 
end  of  the  bar  is  slotted  to  receive  the 
eccentric  handle,  through  which  a  bolt, 
D,  passes  to  form  a  bearing.  Holes  are 
bored  into  the  opposite  end  of  the  bar, 
2  in.  apart,  into  which  a  peg  is  inserted 
to  come  against  the  back  side  of  the 
rear  jaw.  This  provides  an  adjustment 
for  a  range  of  various  thicknesses  of 
material.  Another  bar  is  located  at 
the  bottom  of  the  jaws  to  provide  a 
means  of  keeping  the  jaws  parallel. 
This  bar  is  made  in  a  similar  manner 
to  the  bar  C.  The  rear  jaw  can  be 
fastened  to  the  side  of  a  bench,  post, 
or  any  support  that  may  be  handy. — 
Contributed  by  Wm.  S.  Thompson, 
Columbia,  Tenn. 


245 


Timing  Photo   Printing 


Having  hundreds  of  postals  of  a  sin- 
gle subject  to  print,  I  made  a  perfect 
timing  apparatus  for  exposing  the 
prints  from  an  old  metronome  and  an 
old  gong  magnet.  A  disk,  B,  20  in.  in 
diameter,  was  made  of  heavy  tin  with 
two  apertures,  C  C,  each  cut  7  in.  in 
diameter,  on  a  line  with  the  center  of 
the  disk,  and  2  in.  from  the  edge.  A 
large  spool,  F,  was  used  to  serve  as  a 
hub  and  also  as  a  reel  on  which  strong 
twine  was  wound,  with  a  weight,  E,  at- 
tached to  the  free  end. 

The  disk  was  bolted  to  the  partition 
P  of  the  darkroom,  the  partition  hav- 
ing a  hole,  G,  to  coincide  with  the  holes 
in  the  disk  as  it  revolved.  Four  catch 
pins  were  fastened  on  the  rim  of  the 
disk  to  engage  a  catch  pin  on  the  ar- 
mature of  the  magnet.  The  gong  and 
commutator  were  removed  and  the 
magnet  placed  in  the  position  shown  in 
the  sketch.  A  strip  of  wood  was  fas- 
tened across  the  face  of  the  metronome 
H,  about  1  in.  above  the  pendulum 
shaft  or  axle.  On  the  inside  of  the 
center  of  the  strip  a  small  piece  of 
wood  was  projected,  with  copper  wire 
on  one  side  only,  to  form  a  contact 
with  a  piece  of  flexible  copper  on  the 
pendulum.  Wiring  was  made  as 
shown  in  the  sketch  and  a  switch  used 
to  stop  the  disk  from  revolving. 

An  ordinary  postal-card  printing 
frame,  D,  with  a  hinged  back  was 
used  and  placed  on  the  shelf  A,  as 
shown.  A  hinge  was  made  from  heavy 
elastic  bands  to  allow  for  two  dozen 
cards  in  the  frame  at  one  time.  As 
each  card  was  printed  it  was  taken  out 
and  dropped  into  the  developer.  The 
reel  and  metronome  should  be  wound 


up  after  printing  two  dozen  cards.    The 
stops  can  be  varied  for  any  length  of 


Details  of  Timing  Apparatus 

time  by  regulating  the  weight  on  the 
metronome.  The  disk  and  all  wood- 
work must  be  painted  a  dull  black. 
The  circuit  is  completed  on  the  return 
stroke  of  the  pendulum,  causing  the 
magnet  to  attract  the  armature,  which 
releases  the  catch,  allowing  a  quarter 
turn  of  the  disk. — Contributed  by 
Frank  W.  Preston,  Paterson,  N.  J. 


Pail    Hook   for    a    Pitcher    Pump 

When  pumping  water  from  the 
ordinary  pitcher  pump,  the  bucket 
must  either  be 
held  to  the 
spout  or  placed 
on  the  ground. 
The  accompany- 
ing sketch 
shows  how  I  ar- 
ranged a  hook, 
fastened  over 
the  collar  of  the  pump,  to  take  the  bail 
of  the  bucket.  The  hook  is  made  of 
i/4-in.  round  iron. — Contributed  by 
Laurence  B.  Robbins,  Harwich,  Mass. 


246 


Shade  Roller  Attached  to  Upper 
Window  Sash 

Free  circulation  of  air  cannot  be  ob- 
tained through  a  window  when  the 
shade  is  attached  to  the  window  cas- 


WOOD  <fJ 
BLOCK-' 


When  the  Upper  Sash  is 
Lowered  the  Shade  is  Out 
of  the  Way  of  the  Opening 


CURTAIN 


INNER   SASM 


OUTEIR 
SASH 


ing,  as  it  partly  fills  the  opening  caused 
by  lowering  the  upper  sash.  If  the 
shade  roller  is  attached  to  the  top  of 
the  upper  sash,  the  shade  can  perform 
its  function  without  obstructing  the 
opening  when  the  sash  is  lowered.  It 
only  requires  a  shorter  roller  and  a 
narrower  shade.  The  roller  brackets 
are  attached  in  the  usual  manner,  but, 
in  order  to  have  the  shade  hang  ver- 
tically, a  block,  as  wide  as  the  lower 
sash  frame,  must  be  fastened  under 
each  bracket. 

This  arrangement  also  makes  it 
much  easier  to  put  up  a  curtain,  as  the 
sash  can  be  let  down  until  the  roller 
can  be  reached  while  standing  on  a 
chair.— Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Flashing  Hook 

Having  occasion  to  do  a  large 
amount  of  counter-flashing  in  a  new 
wall  where  the  mortar  was  soft  and  the 
joint  too  large  to 
use  an  ordinary 
nail  or  the  regu- 
lar flashing  hook. 
I  made  hooks 
from  No.  24 
gauge  galvanized 
iron,  having 
hooks  of  extra 
size  and 

strength,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.    The 
size  of  the  hook  is  1-54  by  3%  in.     On 


each  side  edge,  IV^  in.  from  one  end,  I 
cut  teeth,  A  A,  and  clipped  the  corners 
of  the  opposite  end  at  an  angle.  The 
end  at  B  was  turned  down  at  right 
angles  and  the  points  A  A  bent  in  the 
opposite  direction.  I  placed  the  coun- 
ter-flashing in  the  usual  manner,  with 
the  projection  B  hanging  down  and  the 
pointed  end  of  the  hook  in  the  joint, 
and  drove  or  pushed  it  in  tightly.  The 
points  A  A  will  catch  on  the  under  side 
of  the  brick  and  hold  solidly. — Contrib- 
uted by  Ralph  M.  Chatham,  Orleans, 
Indiana. 


A  Homemade  Dibble 

A  dibble  made  of  a  round  and  sharp- 
pointed  stick  is  the  usual  tool  for  mak- 
ing holes  when  setting  tomato  and 
other  plants.  I  found  by  experience 
that  a  dibble  made  of  a  flat  board 
would  work  much  better  and  leave  a 


A  Dibble  Used 
for  Making 
Holes  in  the 
Soil  to 
Transplant 
Tomato  and 
Other  Plants 


1 


V 

cleaner  hole  if  worked  into  the  earth 
with  a  horizontal  swinging  motion. 
The  hole  produced  is  just  right  for  the 
plant.  The  illustration  shows  its 
construction. 


Liquid  Court-Plaster 

A  good  liquid  preparation  for  cuts 
and  bruises  that  forms  a  covering  like 
liquid  court-plaster  is  made  by  mixing 
%  oz.  of  flexible  collodion  with  1/4  oz. 
of  ether.  When  this  solution  is  ap- 
plied to  cuts  it  will  not  wash  off.  As 
the  ether  evaporates,  add  more  to  keep 
the  mixture  liquid. 


247 


A  Substitute  for  Candles 

One  evening  our  electric  light  was 
cut  off  by  a  storm,  and  having  no  gas, 
candles,  or  oil  lamps,  a  very  good  light 
was  made  in  the  following  manner : 
A  tablespoonful  of  lard  was  melted  and 
poured  in  the  top  of  a  baking-powder 
can,  and  four  strands  of  ordinary  white 
wrapping  twine  were  put  into  it,  allow- 
ing one  end  to  stand  up  for  about  % 
in.  above  the  edge  of  the  can.  The 
end  was  lighted  the  same  as  a  candle. 
— Contributed  by  B.  E.  Cole,  Eureka, 
California. 


A  Poultry  Coop 

A  barrel  makes  a  good  protection  for 
a  hen  with  a  brood  of  chicks,  if  it  is 
arranged  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  Pro- 
cure a  good  barrel 
with  a  bottom  and 
cut  off  each  alternate 
stave  at  both  ends 
close  up  to  the  first 
hoop.  The  lower 
openings  thus 
formed  make  en- 
trances for  the 
chickens  and  the 
upper  ones  ad- 
mit air  and  light. 
— Con  t  r  ibuted 
by  W'm.  R.  Konnan,  Neillsville,  Wis. 


Preventing  Mildew  on  Canvas 

To  prevent  mildew  on  canvas,  soak 
it  in  bluestone  water,  or  if  the  mildew 
is  already  present,  coat  the  parts  well 
with  ordinary  soap  and  rub  on  pow- 
dered chalk,  or  whiting.  A  solution  of 
corrosive  sublimate,  well  weakened 
with  water,  will  also  prevent  mildew, 
but  owing  to  its  poisonous  nature  it  is 
best  to  use  the  former  method. — Con- 
tributed by  A.  Ashmund  Kelly,  Mal- 
vern, Pa. 


Holder  for  Books  in  a  Case 

Very  often  it  is  found,  after  arrang- 
ing the  books  in  a  case,  that  the  rows 
are  not  complete  and  the  books  at  the 


The  Shape  of  the  Wire  Makes  It  Easily  Applicable  to 
Any  Open  Bookshelf 

end  are  continually  sliding  down  on  the 
shelf.  The  sketch  shows  a  very  use- 
ful type  of  wire  bracket  to  support  the 
last  book. 

A  brass  wire,  26  in.  long  and  al^out 
Ys  in.  in  diameter,  is  bent,  with  the 
use  of  a  vise  or  pliers,  to  the  shape  and 
dimensions  shown  at  A.  When  the 
wire  is  placed  on  the  bookshelf,  as 
shown  at  B,  it  prevents  the  end  book 
from  falling.  Its  location  can  be 
changed  as  books  are  added  to  the 
shelf. — Contributed  by  John  Y.  Dun- 
lop,  Craighead,  Scotland. 


CWhen  the  steel  point  of  a  compass 
is  lost,  a  phonograph  needle  makes  a 
good  substitute. 


Laying  Out  a  Dovetail  Joint 

With  dividers  and  compass  lay  off 
the  width  of  the  board  into  twice  as 
many  parts  as  the  dovetails  wanted. 
Draw  a  light 
line,  AB,  across 
the  board  as  far 
from  the  end  as 
half  the  thick- 
ness  of  the 
board.  On  this 
line  step  off  the 
divisions  with 
the  dividers,  be- 
ginning with  a 
half      space      or 

division.  With  the  bevel  square,  set 
to  a  bevel  of  1  in.  in  3,  draw  lines 
through  the  division  dots.  This 
method  will  save  much  time  and  give 
accurate  results. — Contributed  by 
Joseph  F.  Parks,  Wichita,  Kan. 


!M8 


Oiling  Bright  Parts  of  Machinery 

It  is  my  duty  to  go  over  the  bright 
parts  on  the  machinery  in  my  father's 
shop  and  give  them  a  coat  of  oil  late 
in  the  afternoon  to  prevent  any  rust 
accumulating  over  night.  As  the  work 
took  considerable  time  from  my  play- 
ing I  thought  of  a  plan  that  not  only 
reduced  the  amount  of  work  but  ap- 
plied the  grease  much  better  than  with 
a  brush  or  rag.     I  procured  a  sprayer, 


A  Sprayer  Filled  with  Oil  Makes  a  Good   Device  for 
Coating  the  Bright  Parts   of   Machinery 

as  shown  in  the  sketch,  and  sprayed 
the  oil  on  the  bright  parts. — Contrib- 
uted by  Waller  Kaufman,  Santa  Ana, 
California. 


Window  Ventilator  to  Prevent  Drafts 

The  ventilator  consists  of  a  piece  of 
wood,  about  8  in.  wide,  3  in.  thick  and 
as  long  as  the  window  is  wide.  Holes, 
1%  in.  in  diameter,  are  bored  at  regu- 
lar intervals  into  one  edge  and  these 
are  connected  with  openings  from  one 
side  as  shown.  The  piece  is  set  under 
the  lower  sash  with  the  long  openings 


uc^v^v_>J^J 

DOOdOOOO 

The    Ventilator    Prevents    the    Air  from    Entering 
a    Room    in    a    Straight    Line 

toward  the  outside.  This  will  direct 
the  incoming  air  currents  upward  into 
the  room. 


A  Chisel  Rack 

Turn  two  large  screweyes  into  the 
under  side  of  a  shelf,  as  far  apart  as  is 
necessary,  and  slip  a  rod  into  the  eyes. 
The  rod  may  be  kept  from  slipping  out 


by  threading  each  end  and  turning  on 
a  nut  after  it  is  in  place.  Hooks  are 
made  from  heavy  wire,  in  the  shape  of 


The  Chisels  are  Kept    Close    at  Hand  and  the  Right 
Tool  may  be  Quickly  Found 

the  letter  "S,"  and  placed  on  the  rod. 
A  screweye  is  turned  into  the  end  of 
each  chisel  handle  and  used  for  hang- 
ing the  tool  on  an  S-hook.  As  many 
hooks  are  provided  as  there  are  tools 
in  use.  This  method  of  hanging  tools 
is  especially  adapted  for  the  wood 
turner. — Contributed  by  Wallace  E. 
Fisher,  New  York,  N.  Y. 


Homemade  Snap  Hooks 

Having  had  occasion  to  use  several 
snap  hooks  of  various  sizes  and  being 
unable  to  find  anything  suitable  for  my 
purpose  on  the 
market,  I  pro- 
cured  several 
cotters    of    the 

desired  sizes  and  by  bending  them 
over,  as  shown  at  A,  and  cutting  them 
off,  as  at  B,  I  had  snap  hooks  which, 
besides  answering  my  original  purpose, 
have  also  found  use  as  key  rings  and 
tool-chuck  holders. — Contributed  by 
Jos.  J.  Kolar,  Maywood,  111. 


A  Dropper  and  Cork  for  Medicine 
Bottles 

A  convenient  way  to  accurately  drop 
medicine  and  liquids  without  any  other 
appliance  than 
the  cork  is  the 
following:  Sim- 
ply burn  or 
puncture  a 
smooth  hole  in 
the  cork  as 
shown.  Pull  the  cork  out  slightly 
when  the  liquid  is  to  be  dropped,  and 
when  this  is  done,  push  the  cork  in 
and  the  bottle  is  sealed. 


249 


Repairing  a  Broken  Oilstone 

A  broken  oilstone  can  be  repaired 
and  made  as  good  as  new  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  Warm  the  pieces  by  heat- 
ing them  on  the  top  of  a  stove  or  gas 
heater,  with  a  piece  of  heavy  sheet 
metal  placed  on  it  so  as  to  protect  the 
stone  from  the  direct  heat  of  the  flame. 
The  heating  should  be  done  somewhat 
slowly  or  the  stone  will  crack. 

When  the  stone  is  warm  wipe  off 
the  oil  which  the  heat  has  driven  out 
and  apply  a  couple  of  coats  of  shellac 
to  the  broken  ends.  When  the  shellac 
is  thoroughly  dry,  warm  the  stone 
again  to  melt  the  shellac,  and  clamp 
the  pieces  together.  After  cooling,  the 
pieces  will  be  found  firmly  stuck  to- 
gether.— Contributed  by  F.  L.  Sylves- 
ter, Reading,  ]\Iass. 


Homemade  Towel  Roller 

The  towel  roller  is  made  of  a  piece 
of  broom  handle,  16  in.  long,  squared 
on  both  ends  and  a  nail  driven  in 
the  center  of 
each  end.  Pro- 
cure two  small 
pieces  of  tin — 
disks  about  1 
in.  in  diameter 
w  i  1 1  d  o — a  n  d 
drive  a  hole 
through  the 
center  of  each 
with  a  wire  nail. 
Cut  from  one  edge  of  the  disk  down 
to  the  hole  taking  out  a  narrow  V- 
shaped  section. 

Fasten  each  disk  to  a  block  and 
nail  these  to  any  convenient  wall  at 
such  a  distance  apart  that  the  nail 
heads  in  the  broomstick  will  slip  down 
in  the  slots  and  rest  in  the  holes  in  the 
centers  of  the  disks,  which  form  the 
bearings  for  the  nail  heads  resting  be- 
yond the  tin  and  next  to  the  block. 

With  a  little  care  the  tin  can  be 
made  to  bulge  outwardly  in  the  center 
making  room  for  the  nail  heads. — Con- 
tributed by  L.  Alberta  Norrell,  Au- 
gusta, Ga. 


Clothesline  Reel 

The  usual  method  of  reeling  up  a 
clothesline  and  taking  it  in  is  quite  a 
task  and  many  times  the  lines  are  left 
out  in  the  open 


from  one  wash 
day  to  another, 
due  to  neglect 
o  r  forgetful- 
ness.  I  made 
the  arrange- 
m  e  n  t  shown 
in  the  sketch  to 
take  care  of  the 
line  without 
any  efifort  to 
the  user. 


Sash  pulley 


CLOTHES  LINE 


Reel  in  the  Basement 

All  that  is  necessary  with  this  ar- 
rangement is  to  take  the  end  of  the  line 
and  run  it  over  the  hooks  or  sheaves 
on  the  posts  and  make  it  secure  around 
an  awning  fastener.  When  loosed,  the 
weight  in  the  basement  will  wind  up 
the  line. 

A  knot  can  be  tied  in  the  line  near 
the  reel  to  catch  at  a  hole  in  the  sill, 
which  will  prevent  the  strain  on  the 
reel.  If  the  reel  is  made  to  wind  up 
4  ft.  of  line  to  each  revolution  and  the 
sash-cord  shaft  is  %  in.  in  diameter, 
about  100  ft.  of  line  can  be  taken  up 
in  a  basement  7  ft.  high. — Contributed 
by  A.  E.  Little,  Akron,  O. 


CBlack-heart  malleable  iron  derives  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  in  annealing 
only  the  outer  layers  of  carbon  are 
oxidized,  the  carbon  of  the  interior  be- 
ing simply  changed  to  a  black  amor- 
phous state. 


250 


A  Candle-Shade  Holder 

A  holder  for  either  round  or  square 
shades  can  be  easily  constructed  from 
a  piece  of  heavy  copper  wire  to  fit  on  a 


Two  Forms  of  Shade    Holder 

Made  of  Copper  Wire  for 

a  Candlestick 

candlestick.      One    end 
of   the    wire    is    looped 
around    the   upper   end 
of  the  candlestick,  then 
bent  so  that  the   main 
part    will    be    vertical. 
The  top  end  is  shaped 
into  a  circle  2  in.  in  di- 
ameter or  a  square  having  sides  2  in. 
long,      as     desired. — Contributed     by 
Harry  Slosower,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 


Wire  Mesh  Used  as  a  Shelf 

In  covering  a  window  back  of  my 
lathe  with  wire  mesh  as  a  protection  I 
also  made  a  shelf  for  the  tools  between 
the  window  sill  and  the  lathe  bed  of 
the  same  material.  The  mesh  used  was 
Vt-in.  The  shelf  is  always  clean,  as  the 
shavings  and  dirt  fall  through,  and  the 
tools  may  be  readily  picked  up. — Con- 
tributed by  J.  H.  Sanford,  Pasadena, 
California. 


Heel  Plates 

A  good  heel  or  toe  plate  can  be  made 
by  driving  ordinary  thumb  tacks  into 
the  leather  of  the  shoe  heel  or  sole. 
The  shape  can  be  varied  by  using  tacks 


The  Heads  of  the  Tacks  Form  a  ^Vearing  Surface 
Equal  to  an  Ordinary  Heel  Plate 

having  different-sized  heads. — Contrib- 
uted by  James  T.  Gaffney,  Chicago,  111. 


A  Bright  Dip  for  Metal 

Articles  of  brass,  copper  and  bronze 
may  be  given  a  bright  luster  by  dipping 
them  into  a  solution  composed  of  50  oz. 
(_)f  nitric  acid,  25  oz.  of  sulphuric  acid, 
liquid  measure,  and  1/2  oz.  of  soot  and 
1/2  oz.  of  salt,  by  weight.  After  the  ar- 
ticles are  dipped  into  the  solution  they 
are  removed  and  thoroughly  washed, 
then  dried  in  sawdust  to  prevent 
streaks. 


An    Interesting    Vacuum    Experiment 

A  very  interesting  experiment  may 
be  performed  with  two  drinking 
glasses,  a  small  candle  end  and  a  piece 
of  blotting  paper, 
says  the  Path- 
finder.  The 
glasses  must  b  e 
the  same  size 
and  of  the  thin- 
glass  kind.  The 
candle  end  is 
lighted  and  set 
in  one  glass  ;  the 
l)lotting  paper  is 
well  dampened 
and  placed  on 
top  of  the  glass, 

and  the  other  glass  inverted  and  its 
rim  placed  exactly  over  the  lower  one 
and  pressed  down  tightly.  The  candle 
will  burn  up  all  the  oxygen  in  the  glass 
and  go  out. 

The  air  in  the  glass  being  heated  will . 
expand  and  some  of  it  will  be  forced 
out  from  under  the  moist  paper,  and 
then,  as  the  portion  remaining  cools,  it 
will  contract  and  draw  the  upper  glass 
on  the  paper  and  make  an  air-tight 
joint.  The  upper  glass  can  then  be 
taken  up  and  the  lower  one  will  cling 
to  it. 


A  Sliver  Extractor 

If  a  clipper  for  the  finger  nails  be- 
comes dull  do  not  throw  it  away,  but 
keep  it  in  the  tool  box  in  a  handy  place. 
It  is  very  useful  for  extracting  slivers 
from  the  flesh. — Contributed  by  G. 
Wokenfuss,  McCook,  Neb. 


251 


Night  Croquet  Playing 

Croquet  playing  became  so  interest- 
ing to  us  that  we  could  not  find  time 
to  do  all  our  playing  during  the  day. 
So  at  night  we  attach  a  candle  to  each 
of  the  wickets  and  also  use  one  at  each 
corner  of  the  grounds.  These  light 
the  grounds  so  that  the  game  can  be 
played  nicely.  The  candles  may  be  at- 
tached by  wiring  them  to  the  wickets 
or  by  using  small  pasteboard  boxes, 
similar  to  a  pill  box  of  sufficient  size, 
and  running  a  wire  through  the  center 
or  down  the  sides,  which  is  hooked 
over  the  top  to  hold  them  upright  on 
top  of  the  ground.  The  latter  way  is 
the  better  as  the  candles  may  be  pulled 
up  in  the  day  time  and  taken  out  of 
the  way. — Contributed  by  Geo.  Good- 
brod,  Union,  Ore. 


A  Nursing-Bottle  Holder 

The  ordinary  nursing  bottle  with 
nipple  necessitates  holding  the  bottle 
in  a  certain  position,  and  when  the 
valve  nipples  are  used,  the  bottle 
should  be  held  far  enough  away  to  al- 
low this  valve  free  action.  To  accom- 
plish this  I  constructed  a  very  sim- 
ple wire  holder  for  the  bottle  as  shown 
in  the  illustration.    Ordinary  telephone 


wire   will   hold  any  bottle.     The  wire 
is  bent  to  hook  on  the  side  of  the  crib, 


Nursing  Bottle  in  Holder 


cradle  or  cab. — Contributed  by  W.  A. 
Humphrey,  Columbus,  O. 


Milk-Ticket  Holder 

An  ordinary  spring  mousetrap  makes 
a  good  bread  or  milk-ticket  holder. 
The    wood    part    of   the    trap    can    be 


Trap  Used  as  Ticket  Holder 

easily  nailed  or  screwed  to  a  door  or 
window  casing.  The  way  the  tickets 
are  held  is  clearly  shown  in  the  sketch. 


Joint    for    Cabinet    "Work 


In  making  a  cabinet  containing  56 
drawers  of  various  sizes,  I  used  the 
method  shown  in  the  sketch  for  making 
the  frame.  The  horizontal  strips  A 
should  be  all  fastened  together  when 
sawing  the  notches  to  fit  over  the  up- 
rights. The  uprights 
B  should  be  sawn  in 
the  same  manner.  It 
is  best  to  round  the 
front  of  the  rear-  up- 
rights slightly  and  also 
any  other  places  where 
the  drawers  might 
strike  when  pushing 
them  into  place.  The 
length   of    the    runners 


C  should  be  V/2  in.  less  than  the  length 
of  the  drawer. — Contributed  by  J.  H. 
Dickson,  Polk,  Pa. 


CDo  not  expect  accurate  work  unless 
you  have  accurate  tools. 


w^ 


1    d 


3  E 


~^ 


Details  of  Joint  Construction 


353 


Starting  a  Saw  Cut 

A  fine  piece  of  woodwork  is  often 
spoiled  by  tlie  amateur  craftsman 
when  startina;  a  cut  with  a  saw.    As  the 


Starting  a  Saw  on  a  Knife  Cut  will  Prevent 
Rougfiing  or  Splintering  the  Eage 

first  stroke  of  the  saw  on  the  edge  of 
the  board  is  made,  the  teeth  often 
break  a  splinter  from  the  edge  or  the 
saw  jumps  to  one  side  of  the  line, 
thereby  making  a  rough  and  uneven 
cut.  This  can  be  avoided  in  a  very 
simple  way. 

After  marking  the  line,  take  a  sharp 
knife  and  make  a  cut  across  the  edge, 
as  shown,  and  draw  the  knife  down 
well  over  the  corners  of  the  board  for 
about  Ys  in.  Place  the  saw  on  the  cut 
and  start  it  slowly.  The  saw  blade  will 
follow  the  cut  of  the  knife  l)lade. 


A  Substitute  Penholder 

One  evening  when  my  wife  was 
using  the  only  penholder  in  the  house 
I  desired  to  do  some  writing  and  being 
in  a  hurry,  I  hastily  made  a  substitute 


The   End   of  the   Pencil   as   It   is  Prepared   to   Receive 
the   Pen 

holder  of  a  pencil.  Two  cuts  were 
made  in  the  butt  end,  as  shown  ;  the 
pen  was  then  slipped  in,  the  outside 
wound  with  a  rubber  band,  and  my 
penholder  was  complete. — Contributed 
by  H.  A.  Sullwold,  St.  Paul,  Minn. 


Protecting  Binding  Posts  on  Wet 
Batteries  from  Corrosion 

AVhen  recharging  the  cells  of  a  wet 
battery  it  is  best  to  procure  the  best 
grade  of  sal  ammoniac,  the  kind  that 
is  put  up  in  boxes  having  a  sufficient 
amount  for  one  cell.  Then,  before  put- 
ting  the    solution    mto    the    cell,    melt 


some  parafiin  used  for  preserving  pur- 
poses and  dip  the  upper  end  of  the  car- 
bons, zinc,  and  the  glass  jar  in  it.  This 
will  apply  a  coat  of  insulating  wax  that 
will  prevent  any  white'  deposit  from 
working  up  on  the  parts  and  corroding 
the  binding  posts,  or  terminals. 

The  cells  are  then  filled  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner,  after  which  the  carbons 
and  zincs  are  raised  just  far  enough  to 
admit  a  layer  of  common  machine  oil, 
about  %  in.  thick.  The  oil  not  only 
prevents  evaporation  but  aids  greatly 
to  keep  the  uncovered  parts  from  cor- 
rosion.— Contributed  by  L.  R.  Kelley, 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


A  Cork  Puller 

A  very  simple  and  easy  way  to  re- 
move a  stopper  from  a  bottle,  when 
a  cork  puller  is  not 
at  hand,  is  to  press 
two  nails  into  the 
cork,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  and,  taking  a 
firm  hold  on  both 
nails,  draw  the  cork 
out.  Brads  may  he 
used  on  smaller  corks. 
Large  and  tightly  fit- 
ted corks  may  be 
drawn  by  gripping  the  nails  with  a 
pair  of  pliers. — Contributed  by  W.  A. 
Jaquythe,  Richmond,  Cal. 


Holder  for  a  Garden-Hose  Nozzle 

When  sprinkling  a  lawn  with  an  au 
tomatic  spraying  de- 
vice on  a  hose  noz- 
zle it  is  necessary  to 
have    some    kind    of 
an     arrangement     to 
tilt    the    end    at    the 
proper  angle.     I  find 
that   a   holder   made 
of  a  heavy  piece  of 
galvanized  wire  bent 
in  the  shape  shown  can  be  used 
to    set   the   nozzle   at   any   angle. 
The  wire  is  easily  pushed  into  the 
earth   and   does   no   harm   to   the 
lawn. — Contributed   liy   T.   J.    Ingram, 
Jr.,   I^ynchburg,  \'a. 


253 


Alarm  to   Designate  a   Filled  Storage 
Battery 

When  a  storage  battery  is  recharged, 
the  completion  of  the  recharging  is 
marked  by  the  development  of  gas  in 
the  cell.  This  fact  is  the  basis  of  a 
simple  electrical  device  which  will  ring 
a  bell  when  the  battery  is  fully  charged. 
A  glass  tube  bent  as  shown  and  hav- 
ing a  small  bulb  near  its  upper  end  is 
inserted  in  the  top  of  the  cell,  a  small 
quantity  of  mercury  being  first  intro- 
duced in  the  bend  below  the  bulb. 
Wires  extend  down  the  upper  tubing 
to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  mer- 
cury. These  wires  are  connected  with 
binding  posts  so  mounted  that  they  can 
rest  on  top  of  the  tube,  whereupon  the 
bell  circuit  is  completed  as  shown. 
Small    quantities   of  gas   may   develop 


The  Gas  Generated  by   a    Filled   Storage  Battery  will 
Make  Electric  Connections  and  Sound  an  Alarm 

during  the  charging  of  the  cell,  but  if 
a  small  hole  is  pierced  in  the  tube  be- 
tween the  mercury  and  the  cell,  this 
gas  will  not  exert  pressure  enough  on 
the  mercury  to  push  it  up  and  connect 
it  with  the  wires,  which  will  take  place 
first  when  the  development  of  gas  be- 
comes very  active  at  the  coinpletion  of 
the  recharging. 


Stretching  Poultry  Fencing 

The  woven-wire  poultry  fencing  is 
an  unusually  difficult  thing  to  handle 
and  fasten  on  posts  so  that  it  will  be 
taut  and  evenly  stretched.  The  best 
method  I  have  ever  seen  for  drawing 
this  fencing  and  holding  it  for  nailing 


to  a  post  is  the  use  of  the  device  shown 
in  the  sketch.  It  consists  of  a  board, 
as  long  as   the   fencing  is  wide,  with 


Board  Fitted  with 
Screw  Hooks  and  a 
Pulling  Device  for 
Stretching  Poultry 
Fencing    on    Posts 


screw  hooks  set  far  enough  apart  to 
catch  into  the  meshes  of  the  wire,  and 
a  crosspiece  attached  to  the  board  by 
pieces  of  rope  at  the  ends  and  provided 
with  a  pulling  loop  in  the  center. — 
Contributed  by  Joseph  C.  Laackman, 
Meadow  Brook,  Pa. 


A  Centering  Gauge 

The  centering  gauge  consists  of  a 
piece  of  celluloid  on  which  several 
circles  are  drawn  having  different 
diameters,  but  all  drawn  from  the  same 
center.  A  small  hole  is  made  at  the 
center  to  admit  the  point  of  a  center 
punch.  Two  sets  of  circles  may  be 
drawn  on  one  piece  as  shown,  but  the 
lines  should  be  spaced  far  enough 
apart  to  allow  the  metal  to  be  clearly 
seen  through  the  celluloid.  The  sheet 
is  placed  on  the  end  of  a  shaft  and 
adjusted  so  that  a  ring  will  match  the 
circumference  of  the  shaft,  then  the 
center  punch  is  set  in  the  center  hole 


Circles  Drawn    on   Celluloid    to    Adjust    It 
on  the  End  of  a  Shaft  in  Finding  the  Center 

and  struck  with  a  hammer.  The  center 
punch  for  marking  is  shown  in  the 
sketch. — Contributed  by  Harry  Hoist, 
San  Francisco,  Cal. 


254 


Homemade  Letters  for  Marking  Bags 

An  initial  marker  for  bags  can  be 
made  of  a  beet  or  potato.  Cut  ofif 
enough  of  the  vege- 
table to  provide  a 
flat  surface  of  suf- 
ficient size  and  then 
cut  out  the  letter  as 
shown  in  the  sketch, 
and  use  shoe  black- 
ing as  ink.  In  cut- 
ting, remember  that 
most  of  the  letters 
must  be  made  reversed  in  order  to 
print  right.  For  example,  in  making  a 
B,  draw  it  out  on  paper  and  cut  it  out, 
then  lay  the  face  of  the  pattern  on  the 
flat  surface  of  the  vegetable  and  cut 
around  it. 


To  Keep  a  Crease  in  a  Soft  Hat 

The  crease  in  a  soft  hat  can  be  kept 
in  proper  shape  with  the  aid  of  a 
paper  clip.     The   clip   is    slipped  over 


Paper  Clip  on  the  Fold,  Holding  It  in  the  Right  Shape 
for  the   Outside  Crease 

the  fold  inside  of  the  hat  which  forms 
the  bottom  part  of  the  crease. — Con- 
tributed by  Jas.  M.  Kane,  Doylestown, 
Pennsylvania. 


A  Shoe  Scraper 

A  good  boot  and  shoe  scraper  for 
a  step  can  be  made  of  a  worn-out  and 
discarded  broom. 
Cut  ofi  the 
straws  and 
strings  as  shown 
in  the  sketch,  al- 
lowing  one 
string  to  hold 
them  together, 
and  make  the  notch  the  width  of  the 


shoe.  Tie  the  extending  ends  together, 
and  mount  the  whole  on  a  suitable 
block,  or,  if  desired,  a  hole  can  be 
bored  in  the  step  to  receive  the  handle, 
and  the  scraper  thus  securely  attached. 
This  makes  an  effective  scraper  for 
the  liottom  as  well  as  the  sides  of  shoes 
of  almost  any  size. — Contributed  by 
Jno.  V.  Loeffler,  Evansville,  Ind. 


A  Vegetable  Slicer 

A  tin  bucket  or  can  makes  a  good 
slicer    for   vegetables    when    no    other 
slicer    is     at     hand.      A 
number  of  slots  are  cut 
across    one    side    of   the 
can,  and  the  lower  edge 
of     each     slot     slightly 
turned    out    to    form    a 
cutting  edge.    The  vege- 
table   is    placed    against 
the  top  of  the  can  and 
pushed    down    over    the 
slots.      Each   slot   will   cut   ofif  a   slice 
which  falls  inside  of  the  can. 


Bench  Stop  for  Planing  Thin  Boards 

A  bench  stop  for  planing  thin  boards 
with    a   hand    plane   may   be    made   in 
the  following  manner:  Procure  a  piece 
of   strap   iron 
a  b  o  u  t    14    in.  ,a 

thick,  11/0  or  2 
in.  wide,  and 
about  6  in.  long. 
File  or  grind 
one  edge  sharp 
on  top  and  drill 


— ■ ~-~- — 7 

(."■■; 

0    : 

\ 

— 

a  ^/4-in.  hole 
through  the 
center.  Cut  a 
slot  in  a  board 
or  in  the  work- 
bench large  enough  to  receive  the  stop 
A  flat.  Place  enough  strips  of  rubber 
or  fit  two  coil  springs,  B,  to  raise  the 
sharp  edge  out  of  the  slot.  Insert  a 
screw  in  the  hole  of  the  stop  and  ad- 
just it  to  the  desired  height  by  turn- 
ing the  screw  up  or  down. 


CIn  a  case  of  emergency,  lemon  juice 
may  be  used  as  soldering  flux. 


255 


A  Jardiniere  Pedestal 

The  pedestal  may  be  made  of  any 
close-grained  wood,  such  as  basswood 
or  maple,  if  the  stain  is  to  be  walnut 
or  mahogany,  but  it  can  also  be  con- 
structed of  quarter-sawed  oak  and 
finished  in  a  waxed  mission  or  var- 
nished surface.  The  material  required 
is  as  follows: 

1  top.  12  by  12  by  V,  in..  5-2-S. 

2  caps.  6  by  6  by  7s  in..  S  2-S. 

1  upright.  18  by  4  by  4  in..  S-4-S. 
1  base.  8  by  8  by  %  in..  S  2-S. 

The  top  is  centered  and  a  circle,  11% 
in.  in  diameter,  is  drawn  upon  it,  and 
sawn  out.  The  caps  are  also  centered 
and  circles  drawn  upon  them,  SV^  in. 
and  3%  in.  in  diameter.  Saw  them  out 
on  the  larger  circles  and  center  them 
in  a  wood  lathe  and  turn  out  the  wood 
in  the  smaller  circles  to  a  depth  of  % 
in.  The  upright  is  then  centered  in  the 
lathe  and  turned  to  3I/2  '"•  in  diameter 
for  its  full  length. 

The  base  and  foot  pieces  are  cut  out 
as  shown,  fitted  together  and  fastened 
with  screws  from  the  under  side.  One 
of  the  caps  is  mounted  in  the  center 
on  the  base  and  the  other  cap  in  the 
center  on  the  under  side  of  the  top. 
The  upright  is  then  placed  in  the 
turned-out  parts  of  the  caps  and  either 
glued  or  fastened  with  screws. 

If  light  wood  is  used,  the  finish  can 
be    walnut    or    mahogany.       A    very 


w/M/////////////////////m 


-ij— i    r-'-  jyl" 


The  Pedestal  can  be  Made  of  a  \Vood  Suitable 
for  Finishing  to  Match  Other  Furniture 

prett}'  finish  can  be  worked  out  in 
pyrography,  if  one  is  familiar  with  that 
work. — Contributed  by  Russell  T. 
Westbrook,  Dover,  N.  J. 


A  Lawn-Tennis  Marker 

The  liquid  receptacle  is  a  metal  bis- 
cuit box,  about  9  in.  square  and 
mounted  on  a  wheel  with  a  handle,  the 


A  Marker  That 
will  Make  a 
Clear,  White 
Line  on  the 
Ground  for  a 
Tennis  Court 


whole  being  similar  to  a  wheelbarrow. 
The  wheel  is  7  in.  in  diameter  and  21/4 
in.  thick.  The  wheel  and  box  are 
bolted  between  two  pieces  of  strap  iron 
in  the  manner  shown,  and  the  handle 
is  attached  back  of  the  box.  If  the  box 
is  of  very  thin  metal,  boards  should 
be  placed  within  on  the  sides  where  it 
is  fastened  to  the  strap  iron.  A  roller 
is  pivoted  in  the  box  at  the  lower  back 
corner  and  a  canvas  tape  or  band  run 
over  the  roller  and  wheel  in  the  man- 
ner of  a  belt.  The  tape  should  run 
through  a  slot  cut  in  the  front  part  of 
the  box,  about  midway  between  the  top 
and  the  l)ottom.  The  edges  of  the  tin 
in  the  slot  must  be  turned  over  and 
hammered  down  to  make  a  smooth 
surface  for  the  tape  to  run  over. — 
Contributed  by  George  N.  Bertram, 
Toronto,   Can. 


Removing  Tannin  Stains  from  Teacups 

A  small  portion  of  hyposulphite  of 
soda  mixed  with  vinegar  will  make  a 
good  cleaner  for  teacups  having  tannin 
stains.  This  process  does  not  injure 
the  finest  china  and  is  inexpensive.  The 
same  solution  works  quite  well  on 
clothes  that  are  accidentally  stained 
with  tea.  They  should  be  washed  out 
and  dried  quickly  after  its  application 
in  order  to  make  this  method  most  ef- 
fective.— Contributed  by  Loren  Ward, 
Des  Moines,  Iowa. 


256 


Woven-Top  Stool 

The  material  necessary  for  this  stool 
is  as  follows: 

4  legs,  1%   by  1%   bv  10  in. 

4  bottom   rails,    %    by  1  %    by  16  in. 

4  top  rails.    %    by  2  by  IRiA    in. 

4  diagonal  braces,  %   by.l^   by  6  in. 


Weaving  the  Top  of  the  Stool  by   Using 
a  Wet  Weaver  of  Reed 


SECTION  A-B  Hjjlh, 


"M 

mt^        m\\- 

1 

[ 

\H 

,;, 

5" 

1 

1 — r 

3'/4- 


Construction  of  the  Frame  and  Manner  of  Laying 
the  Weavers  for  the  Top 


C-   -r 


0 


The  legs  are  mortised  so  the  top  rails 
come  level.  The  upper  rails  are 
tenoned  on  the  sides  only  and  beveled 
at  the  ends.  For  the  bottom  rails,  the 
mortises  are  made  one  above  the  other, 
the  rails  being  tenoned  on  all  sides. 
The  braces  are  cut  at  45°  on  each  end 
and  glued  into  place. 

In  weaving  the  top,  proceed  as  fol- 
lows :  Use  a  wet  weaver  and  wrap  one 
layer  over  the  entire  top,  the  strips 
being  placed  close  together  and  tightly 
wound.  Start  the  second  layer  at  right 
angles  to  the  first  by  going  under  one 
strip,  then  over  three  strips,  under 
three,  and  so  on,  by  threes,  until  that 
strip  is  finished.  Start  the  second  by 
going  under  two  strips,  then  over 
three,  under  three,  and  so  on,  as  before. 
The  third  strip  should  start  by  going 
under  three,  then  over  and  under  three, 
etc.  Start  the  fourth  by  going  over 
one,  then  under  three,  and  over  three, 
as  in  the  preceding;  the  fifth,  start 
over  two,  then  under  and  over  three, 
repeatedly.  The  sixth,  and  last  of  the 
series,  begin  over  three  and  then  con- 
tinue, by  threes,  as  before.  Having 
finished  one  series,  the  remainder  of 
the  top  should  be  completed  in  similar 
order.  Good  white  shellac  makes  the 
best  finish  for  the  seat ;  the  stool  itself 
may  be  finished  to  suit. — Contributed 
by  Russel  Dodsworth,  Erie,  Pa. 


Preserving  Shafting  from  Rust  and 
Corrosion 

In  a  laboratory  it  was  very  difficult 
to  keep  the  line  shaft  and  countershafts 
bright  and  free  from  rust,  owing  to  the 
fumes  and  gases  issuing  from  the  sev- 
eral fume  closets  within  the  same  room. 
The  following  method  was  tried,  and 
proved  very  satisfactory.  The  shafting 
was  covered  with  two  coats  of  flat  white 
paint  and  allowed  to  dry,  after  whicli  a 
coat  of  white  enamel  was  applied,  giv- 
ing it  a  clean,  glossy,  and  sanitary  ap- 
pearance. This  eliminated  all  the  trou- 
ble of  cleaning  it  with  emery  cloth,  and 
it  also  made  it  appear  in  harmony  with 
the  other  furnishings  of  the  laboratory. 
— Contributed  by  Geo.  F.  Stark,  Nor- 
wich, N.  Y. 


A  Reed  Basket 


TNASMUCH  as  there  is  a  great  de- 
■'•  mand  for  reed  furniture  and  since 
good  weavers  are  comparatively  few 
in  number,  it  would  be  well  to  learn 
the  process  of  reed  weaving.  The 
weaving  operations  can  be 
learned  much  better  through 
the  construction  of  some 
small  article,  such  as  a  basket 
or  jardinere  cover.  The  cen- 
ter is  the  most  difficult  part  of 
the  basket  making,  and  it  is 
best  to  begin  with  wood  bot- 
toms, as  the  whole  basket  can 
be  kept  in  a  much  better  form 
due  to  the  stiffness  furnished 
by  such  a  bottom.  It  is  also 
an  approach  to  the  reed  furni- 
ture which  is  woven  on  frame- 
work. The  objectionable  fea- 
ture of  the  wood  bottoms  is 
the  unfinished  appearance  of 
the  wood  edge  show- 
ing through,  but  this 
can  be  overcome  by 
the  use  of  the  roll 
shown  in  the  illus- 
tration. 

WHiile     the     wood 
bottoms    have    been 


used  for  this  class  of  work  for  a  num- 
ber of  years,  the  roll  is  new  and  is 
very  popular  with  those  who  have 
seen  and  used  it.  The  roll  can  be  placed 
in  many  ways  on  different-shaped  bas- 
kets, and  other  reed  pieces, 
so  that  it  is  best  to  master  this 
piece  of  work  thoroughly  be- 
fore attempting  the  other,  or 
larger,  pieces  that  will  be  de- 
scribed later,  in  other  articles. 
The  description  is  for  a  bas- 
ket 5  in.  in  diameter  and  3  in. 
high,  as  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion. A  disk  of  wood,  i/i  in. 
thick  and  5  in.  in  diameter,  is 
required.  Basswood  makes 
the  best  bottom,  but  pine,  or 
cedar,  will  do.  Cut  a  board 
about  6  in.  square,  and  draw 
diagonal  lines  on  it  intersect- 
ing at  the  center,  then  draw  a 
circle,  5  in.  in  diameter, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  1 ; 
also  another  circle, 
using  the  same  center, 
4%  in.  in  diameter.  Set 
compass  points  about 
%  in.  apart,  and  step 
off  spaces  on  the  inner 


258 


circle  to  make  24  points.  This  will 
haxe  to  be  tried  out  more  than  once, 
to  get  the  spaces  to  come  out  evenly 
and  just  have  the  right  number  of 
points.  Holes  are  bored  with  a  ^-in. 
bit,  just  inside  of  the  inner  circle,  back 
of  the  places  marked  by  the  compass 
points,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  Cut  the 
board  on  the  outside  circle  with  a 
coping,  or  turn,  saw,  to  make  the  cir- 
cle, as  in  Fig.  3.  Do  not  saw  out  the 
circle  before  boring  the  holes,  as  other- 
wise the  disk  might  split  out  in  places. 
The  reeds  placed  vertically  are  called 
spokes,  and  the  horizontal  ones  are 
the  weavers.  For  the  spokes,  what  is 
called  a  No.  4  reed  is  used.  Do  not  wet 
the  spokes  before  putting  them  through 
the  wood.  Allow  the  ends  to  project 
about  51/^  in.  below  the  bottom,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  Place  the  bottom, 
with  the  spokes,  in  water,  and  soak 
them  thoroughly,  especially  the  part 
below  the  bottom.  About  15  minutes 
of  soaking  will  be   sufficient  to  make 


them  pliable  enough  to  bend  over  at 
right  angles.  It  will  not  injure  the 
wood  bottom  to  soak  it  with  the  reeds. 
As  shown  at  A,  Figs.  4  and  5,  each 
spoke  below  the  wood  bottom  is  bent 
down  and  back  of  the  two  nearest 
spokes,  B  and  C,  then  out  between  the 
third  and  fourth  spokes,  C  and  D,  and 
so  on.  The  last  two  spokes,  Y  and  Z, 
Fig.  6,  are  forced  under  the  spokes  A 
and  B,  respectively.  In  this  illustra- 
tion the  spoke  Y  is  shown  as  it  is  being 
inserted  under  the  spoke  A.  When 
this  operation  is  completed,  the  bottom 
will  have  the  appearance  of  a  fireworks 
pinwheel. 

Continue  the  bending  of  the  spokes., 
in  the  same  direction,  up  and  across 
the  thickness  of  the  wood  in  front  of 
three  other  spokes  and  behind  the 
fourth,  as  shown  in  Fig.  7.  This  would 
not  cover  the  edge  of  the  wood  entirely, 
and,  for  this  reason,  other  short  spokes 
must  be  inserted  in  front  of  each  of 
the  first  ones  before  it  is  brought  up 


Fitt.5 


Fic.6 


The  Bottom  is  Cut  from  a  Piece  of  Wood  to  Give  Strength  and  to  Avoid  the  Most  Difficult  Part  of  the 
Weaving;  the  Reeds  are  Attached  to  the  Bottom  and  Their  Lower  Ends  Bent  as  Shown 


259 


across  the  edge  of  the  wood.  These  a  weaver  is  used  up,  press  it  back  to 
supplementary  spokes  should  be  about  the  side  a  little,  push  in  a  new  reed 
4  in.  long.     The  manner  of  inserting      about  II/2  in.,  and  continue  the  weav- 


Fie.i2 

^FiG.IO  X     "^         Fig. II         A   B  C   D    E 

The  Lower  Ends  of  the  Spokes  are  Turned  to  Cover  the  Edge  of  the  Bottom.  Then  the  Reeds 

are  Woven  into  the  Upright  Spokes  to  the  Right  Height,  Where  They  are 

Broken  Down  and  Woven  into  a  Top  Border 


these  spokes  before  making  the  bend  is 
shown  at  G  and  T,  Fig.  6.  The  double 
spokes  must  be  pressed  down  flat,  when 
brought  up  in  place,  without  riding  one 
on  the  other.  If  the  ends  are  too  long 
and  interfere  with  the  next  pair,  they 
can  be  cut  ofif  a  little  with  a  flat  chisel, 
or  knife,  being  careful  not  to  make 
them  too  short,  or  the  pieces  will  not 
stay  in  place.  If  there  is  still  an  open 
space,  an  extra,  short  spoke  can  be  in- 
serted to  crowd  the  pieces  together  and 
fill  up  the  space. 

When  the  roll  is  completed,  insert 
three  weavers,  of  No.  3  reed  that  has 
been  soaked  about  15  minutes,  placing 
them  between  the  spokes  A  and  B,  B 
and  C,  and  C  and  D,  as  shown  in  Fig. 

8.  Pass  weaver  L  in  front  of  the 
spokes  B  and  C,  then  back  of  D  and 
out  between  D  and  E.  Weaver  M  is 
passed  in  front  of  C  and  D,  back  of  E 
and  out  in  front  of  E  and  F.  These 
operations   are   clearly   shown   in    Fig. 

9.  The  weaver  N  is  placed  in  front  of 
D  and  E,  back  of  F  and  then  in  front 
of  G  and  H.  At  this  point  the  weaver 
L  is  used  again.  The  weaver  farthest 
behind  each  time  is  brought  in  front 
of  the  two  spokes  nearest  to  it,  then 
behind  the  third  and  out  in  front  of  the 
next  two  spokes.  Do  not  try  to  use 
weavers  longer  than  8  ft.,  which  is 
about  half  the  length  of  a  reed.    When 


ing.  This  is  clearly  shown  in  Fig.  10. 
This  weaving  is  known  as  the  triple 
weave,  which  cinches  down  well  and 
holds  tightly.  The  first  round  should 
be  carefully  worked,  so  as  to  get  the 
ends  of  the  roll  properly  pressed  down 
flat  in  place.  Each  throw  of  the  weaver 
should  be  well  pressed  down. 

The  break-down-tight  border  is  used 
for  the  finish  at  the  top.  The  first 
operation  in  making  this  border  is 
shown  in  Fig.  11.  The  spoke  A  is  bent 
over  back  of  spoke  B  and  out  between 
spokes  B  and  C.  The  spoke  B  is  bent 
over  back  of  the  spoke  C  and  out  be- 
tween C  and  D,  and  so  on,  until  the 
spoke  E  is  turned  down.  Then  take 
the  end  of  the  spoke  A,  Fig.  13,  and 
lay  it  over  B,  C,  D,  and  E,  in  front  of 
F,  back  of  G,  and  out  between  G  and 
H.  The  end  of  spoke  F  is  then  brought 
down,  also  between  G  and  H,  but  back 
of  the  end  of  A.  The  end  of  B  takes 
a  similar  leap,  passes  behind  H  and 
out  between  H  and  J  ;  then  G  is  brought 
down  behind  the  end  of  B,  in  the  same 
manner  as  F  was  brought  down  back 
of  A.  The  last  four  or  five  spokes  are 
the  most  difficult  to  handle,  as  they 
must  be  forced  through  the  first  ones 
to  correspond  with  those  already  in 
place.  It  is  best  not  to  pull  the  ends 
of  A,  B,  C,  and  D  down  too  tightly  at 
first,  keeping  in  mind  that  the  last  ones 


260 


must  be  inserted  under  the  first  ones. 
The  last  standing  spokes  are  repre- 
sented by  the  full  and  shaded  lines. 

If  the  roll  illustrated  in  Figs.  11  and 
12  is  too  difficult,  a  simple  break-down 
can  be  used,  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  13. 
To  make  this  finish,  spoke  A  is  turned 
back  of  spoke  B,  in  front  of  spoke  C 
and  back  of  spoke  D,  but  not  out  again. 
Spoke  B  is  bent  back  of  C,  in  front  of 
D,  and  back  of  E.  The  others  are 
turned  down  the  same  way.  The 
manner  in  which  the  two  last  spokes 
are  turned  down  and  inserted  is  shown, 
by  the   double  dotted   lines. 

The  remainder  of  the  illustrations 
show  the  method  of  forming  a  roll 
between  the  first  and  second  spokes, 
where  only  three  spokes  are  turned 
down  before  the  throwing-across  proc- 
ess begins.  The  first  three  spokes 
turned  down  are  shown  in  Fig.  14, 
and  the  throwing  over,  in  Fig.  15. 
The  second  beginning  is  shown  in 
Fig.  16.  The  finishing  of  this  top  is 
shown  in  Figs.  17  and  18.  The  full, 
heavy  lines  represent  the  final  inser- 
tions, and  the  reed  must  be  in  quite  a 
sharp  loop  to  make  the  end  enter  the 
right  place.  It  is  then  drawn  down 
and  forced  in  front  of  the  other  reed 
that  passes  out  between  the  same 
spokes. 

When  the  basket  is  dry,  the  long 
ends   can  be  cut  ofi^  close  up  with   a 


other,  flame  that  will  not  smut.  If  it 
requires  bleaching,  brush  some  chloride 
of  lime,  mixed  in  a  little  water,  over 
the  reeds  and  set  in  the  sunlight  for 
a  short  time.  It  is  better  to  leave  the 
finish  a  little  dark  rather  than  use 
too  much  bleaching,  as  the  latter  will 
give  an  objectionable  whitish  appear- 
ance that  looks  like  a  poor  job  of 
painting. 

In  working  the  reeds,  do  not  leave 
them  in  the  water  longer  than  neces- 
sary, as  this  will  turn  them  dark.  A 
bleached  reed  will  stand  the  water 
much  longer  than  in  the  natural  state. 
Dampen  the  reed  frequently  while 
weaving  it,  as  the  weavers  pack  down 
much  closer  when  wet.  The  dampgn- 
ing  process  is  also  required  to  remedy 
the  drying  out  caused  by  whisking  the 
reeds  through  the  air  in  weaving  ope- 
rations. A  great  variety  of  baskets 
can  be  made  from  this  form,  viz.,  low, 
tall,  tapering  vase  forms,  bowl  shapes, 
etc.,  in  plain  or  dark  weaves. 


Wireless-Lighted  Lamp  Deception 

Window  displays  of  puzzling  nature 
usually  draw  crowds.  A  lighted  globe 
lying  on  its  side  in  full  view,  yet  ap- 
parently not  connected  to  any  source  of 
electricity,  could  easily  be  arranged  as 
a  window  display,  deceiving  the  closest 
observer.    A  mirror,  or  window  glass, 


C    D 


A  Simple  Break-Down    Roll  for  the  Top.  Also  a  Method  of  Forming  a  Roll  between  the  First  and  Second 
Spokes  Where  Only  Three  Spokes  are  Turned  Down  Before  the  Throwing-Across  Process  Begins 

knife,  being  careful  not  to  cut  a  weaver,  backed  with  some  opaque  material. 
If  there  are  hairv  fibers  sticking  out  should  be  used  for  the  foundation  of 
they  can  be  singed  ofiE  over  a  gas,  or      the  device.    For  the  display  lamp,  it  is 


261 


best  to  use  a  25  or  40-watt  tungsten,  as 
these  will  lie  flatter  on  the  glass  than 
the  larger  sizes,  and  the  deception  will 
not  be  as  easily  discovered.  The  place 
where  the  brass  cap  of  the  lamp 
touches  the  glass  should  be  marked 
and  a  small  hole  drilled  through  to  the 
wire  connecting  the  tungsten  filament 
to  the  plug  on  the  top  of  the  lamp.  At 
any  suitable  place,  a  hole  should  be 
drilled  in  the  glass  plate,  no  larger  than 
is  necessary,  to  permit  two  small  cot- 
ton-covered magnet  wires  to  pass 
through.  One  of  the  wires  should  be 
looped,  passed  through  the  hole  in  the 
cap  and  hooked  onto  the  bare  wire  con- 
necting with  the  plug  on  top  of  lamp. 
The  other  wire  should  be  fastened  to 
the  brass  cap,  near  the  drilled  hole, 
after  which  the  lamp  may  be  placed  in 
position  and  the  two  wires  connected 
to  a  source  of  electricity.  If  proper 
care  has  been  taken  and  no  crosses  oc- 


WINDOW  GLASS> 


■i^ 


£^ 

-J^&y^ 

_^_-f|^ 

^ 

TpiP 

^^i= 

^ 

An  Electric  Globe  Lighted  on  a  Piece  ot  Glass 
Makes  a  Good  Window  Attraction 

cur,  the  lamp  will  light,  and  if  the  dis- 
play is  placed  in  the  proper  surround- 
ings, it  will  prove  very  deceiving.  To 
protect  against  a  fuse  blow-out  from 
a  short  circuit,  it  is  advisable  to  run 
another  lamp  in  series  with  the  display 
lamp,  as  shown. — Contributed  by  Clyde 
W.  Epps,  Mineola,  Tex. 


Live  Bait  Used  in  Fishing 

With  the  simple  device  illustrated, 
no  fisherman  need  worry  over  running 
short  of  bait  or  even  regarding  the 
usual  repeated  baiting  of  the  hook.  A 
small  clear-glass  bottle  should  be  pro- 
ctired,  and  several  hooks  wired  to  it 
about  the  neck,  or  at  each  end,  as  de- 
sired or  found  best  after  several  trials. 
After  filling  the  bottle  with  water  a 
live  minnow  is  placed  in  it,  and  the  bot- 
tle  is   sealed   with   a   cork,   which   is 


notched  around  the  edge  to  permit  wa- 
ter to  enter  or  leave  the  bottle  without 
the  bait.     If  live  grasshoppers. 


losing 


The  Bait  is  Kept  Alive  and  Unharmed  in  a  Bottle 
Surrounded  with  Hooks 

or  similar  bait,  is  desired  the  cork  can 
be  used  unnotched  to  form  a  water- 
tight stopper.  As  illuminated  bait  for 
night  fishing,  several  fireflies  can  be  put 
in  the  bottle. — Contributed  by  L.  Wah- 
rer,  Tifiin,  Ohio. 


Bookrack 

The  material  necessary  for  the  illus- 
trated bookrack  is  as  follows : 

2  end  pieces,  ^  by  5^  by  6  in. 
1  shelf,  5i  by  5J4   by  13  in. 

The  shelf  is  cut  rectangular,  51/1  in. 
wide  by  141/2  in.  long.  Its  two  ends 
should  then  be  provided  with  tenons  % 
in.  thick  by  4I/4  in.  wide,  and  extending 
out  i/i  inch. 

The  end  pieces,  after  being  cut  to  the 
given  dimensions,  are  marked  off  and 
I"    I 
11 


A  Bookrack  That  can  be  Made  in  Any  Wood 
to  Match  Other  Furniture 

cut   out   for  mortises   to   fit   the   shelf 
tenons. 

In   assembling  the   parts,   they  are 


262 


glued  in  place,  and  clamped  with  hand 
screws  until  the  glue  has  set.  Any  of 
the  good  mission  stains,  properly  ap- 
plied, will  give  a  finished  appearance  to 
the  bookrack. 


A  Paper  Gas  Pipe 

When  one  fits  up  an  attic  or  a  back 
room  as  a  workshop,  it  is  seldom  that 
a  gas  connection  is  available  on  about 


Z)     PAPER  STRIP 


METHOD  OF  ROLLING 


^ 


CROSS  SECTION  OF   JOINT 

The  Tube  is  Run  Out  Horizontally  from  the  Chan- 
deher  to  the  Wall  Where  the  Drop  is  Connected 

the  same  level  as  the  workbench  so 
that  a  Bunsen  burner  and  soldering 
apparatus  may  be  operated.  To  install 
the  standard  gas  pipe,  it  would  be 
necessary  either  to  alter  the  chandelier 
connection  or  to  tear  up  some  of  the 
plaster,  the  former  plan  resulting  in 
a  rather  conspicuous  display  of  pipe 
and  the  latter  in  considerable  expense. 
The  following  method  permits  the  roll- 
ing of  a  pipe,  about  the  size  of  a  lead 
pencil,  from  paper  that  becomes  so  stiff 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  crush 
it  between  the  thumb  and  fingers.  This 
small  inconspicuous  pipe  may  be  run 
directly  from  the  side  of  the  valve  on 
the  chandelier  to  the  wall,  as  shown 
in  the  sketch,  thence  down  some  corner 


formed  by  a  door  jamb  or  window 
frame,  which  protects  it  and  renders  it 
almost  unnoticeable. 

A  good  grade  of  tough  Manila  paper 
should  be  procured  and  cut  into  strips, 
about  18  in.  long  and  wide  enough  to 
build  up  a  tube  at  least  J^  in.  in 
diameter.  This  will  require  from  4  to 
6  in.,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the 
paper.  A  piece  of  i/4-in.  round  iron  or 
hard  wood,  20  in.  long,  is  procured  and 
carefully  oiled  or  greased.  Apply  a 
coat  of  strong  fish  glue  to  one  of  these 
pieces  of  paper,  omitting  a  strip  along 
one  edge,  about  1  in.  wide.  Using  the 
outspread  fingers  of  each  hand,  begin 
with  the  unglued  edge  and  roll  the 
paper  around  the  wood.  As  it  is  im- 
possible to  get  the  paper  uniformly 
tight  with  the  fingers,  select  a  smooth 
place  on  the  table  and  then  roll  the 
newly  formed  tube  forward  by  means 
of  a  piece  of  board,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  On  the  return  stroke  lift 
the  board.  In  this  way  it  is  possible 
to  get  a  tight,  smooth  tube.  Immedi- 
ately withdraw  the  core,  twisting  it 
slightly  in  a  reverse  direction  if  it 
tends  to  stick.  Before  using  the  core 
again,  make  sure  it  is  free  from  glue 
and  regrease  it.  When  a  sufficient 
number  of  tubes  have  been  made  and 
hardened,  neatly  trim  the  ends  ofif 
squarely,  and  then  form  an  equal  num- 
ber of  short  tubes,  about  2  in.  long,  by 
winding  a  strip  of  glued  paper  on  a 
large  wire  nail  until  a  diameter  is 
reached  that  will  fit  snugly  into  the 
pipes  already  made.  The  joints  may 
then  be  set  up  with  strong  glue  and 
finally  wrapped  with  two  thicknesses 
of  paper  on  the  outside.  The  construc- 
tion of  these  joints  is  shown  in  the 
cross   section. 

The  connection  with  the  chandelier 
can  be  made  by  means  of  a  metal  tube 
soldered  in  at  a  point  where  the  regu- 
lar valve  will  cut  ofif  all  connection 
with  the  paper  piping  when  it  is  not 
in  use.  This  metal  tube  should  be 
coated  with  thick  shellac,  and  the  paper 
tube  slipped  over  it  for  1  in.  or  more, 
after  which  the  joint  should  be  given 
several  additional  coats  on  the  outside. 
A  small  regulating  gas  cock  can  be 


263 


attached  to  the  lower  end  of  the  piping, 
and  if  this  is  rigidly  fastened  to  the 
wall,  or  casing,  the  connecting  and 
disconnecting  of  the  rubber  tubing  will 
not  disturb  the  piping  in  any  way. — 
Contributed  by  John  D.  Adams. 


Rubbing  Slats  for  a  Washing  Board 

In  an  emergency,  and  to  substitute 
something  for  a  broken  glass  rubbing 
plate  on  an  ordinary  washing  board,  I 
fitted  a  series  of  %-in.  dowels  horizon- 
tally across  the  board,  closely  together. 
This  proved  to  be  better  than  glass  or 
zinc,  as  fabrics  adhered  to  the  wood 
dowels  and  caused  them  to  revolve, 
making  a  more  desirable  rubbing  sur- 
face and  accomplishing  the  work  of 
loosening  the  dirt  in  the  fabric  with  far 
less  effort  than  that  necessary  on  the 
metal  or  glass  board. — Contributed  by 
H.  M.  Spamer,  Vineland,  N.  J. 


Catching  Bugs  Attracted  by  Light 

Bugs,  moths,  and  insects  attracted 
by  lights  on  summer  evenings  can  be 
caught  by  means  of  sticky  fly  paper, 
suspended  as 
shades  around 
the  lamps.  Cuts 
in  the  shade  al- 
low the  greater 
portion  of  the 
light  to  pass 
through  and  at- 
tract the  bugs, 
which  will  sure- 
ly be  caught  as 
theytravel  about 
the  light  onto 
It  is  advisable  to 
at  the  same  time 
from  a  double  sheet  of  the  sticky  pa- 
per, pasted,  as  when  bought,  with  the 
sticky  faces  together  so  that  the  shades 
may  be  cut  and  handled  easier. — Con- 
tributed by  John  J.  Kolar,  Maywood, 
Illinois. 


the   sticky  paper, 
make  two  shades 


Needle  Box  for  Talking  Machines 

An  empty  cigarette  box  can  be  easily 
changed  to  a  useful  container  for  talk- 
ing-machine needles,  as  shown  in  the 


Three  Compartments  are  Provided  with  Sloping 
Bottoms  in  a  Neat  Box  for  the  Needles 

sketch.  Take  a  fairly  heavy  card,  trim 
it  to  the  same  length  as  the  box,  then 
bend  and  crease  it,  as  shown  at  A,  and 
glue  the  short,  upright  side  to  the  in- 
side of  the  box.  Cut  another  card  to 
the  shape  B,  so  that  the  depth  C  equals 
the  inside  depth  of  the  box,  and  the  side 
D  is  as  long  as  its  width.  The  side  E 
should  equal  the  inclined  length  of  the 
card  A,  and  is  glued  upon  it  when  B  is 
in  position.  The  three  compartments 
may  be  suitably  labeled  as  indicated. — 
Contributed  by  V.  A.  Rettich,  New 
York,  N.  Y. 


COilcans  should  be  marked  to  indicate 
the  kind  of  oil  in  them. 


Trick  of  Taking  Dollar  Bill  from  Apple 

A  rather  pleasing,  yet  puzzling,  de- 
ception is  to  pass  a  dollar  bill  into  the 
interior  of  an  examined  lemon  or  apple. 
This  can  be  accomplished  in  several 
ways,  either  mechanically  or  purely 
by  sleight  of  hand.     The  mechanical 


264 


method,  of  course,  is  the  easier  and 
really  just  as  effective.  In  performing, 
a  plate  with  three  apples  is   first  ex- 


The  Dollar  Bill  is  Hidden  in 
tie  Knife  Handle  That  Cuts  the  Apple 


hibited,  and  the  audience  is  given  choice 
of  any  one  for  use  in  the  experiment. 
The  selected  one  is  tossed  out  for  ex- 
amination and  then  returned  to  the  per- 
former, who  places  it  in  full  view  of  the 
spectators  while  he  makes  the  dollar 
bill  vanish.  Taking  the  knife  he  cuts 
the  apple  into  two  pieces,  requesting 
the  audience  to  select  one  of  them. 
Squeezing  this  piece  he  extracts  the  dol- 
lar bill  therefrom.  The  entire  secret  is 
in  the  unsuspected  article — the  table 
knife. 

The  knife  is  prepared  by  boring  out 
the  wooden  handle  to  make  it  hollow. 
Enough  space  must  be  made  to  hold  a 
dollar  bill.  The  knife  lies  on  the  plate 
with  the  fruit,  the  open  end  facing  the 
performer.  After  the  bill  has  been 
made  to  vanish  and  the  examined  ap- 
ple returned  to  the  entertainer,  he  takes 
it  and  cuts  it  in  half.  One  of  the  halves 
is  chosen,  the  performer  impaling  it  on 
the  end  of  the  knife  blade  and  holding 
it  out  to  view.  While  still  holding  the 
knife  he  turns  the  blade  downward  and 


grasps  the  half  apple  and  crushes  it 
with  a  slight  pass  toward  the  knife- 
handle  end  where  the  bill  is  grasped 
along  with  the  apple,  which  makes  a 
perfect  illusion  of  taking  the  bill  out  of 
the  apple. 

As  to  the  disappearance  of  the  dollar 
bill,  there  are  many  ways  in  which  this 
may  be  accomplished.  Perhaps  the 
method  requiring  the  least  practice  is 
to  place  the  bill  in  the  trousers  pocket, 
and  then  show  the  audience  that  the 
latter  is  empty.  This  can  be  done  by 
rolling  the  bill  to  small  compass,  and 
pushing  it  into  the  extreme  upper  cor- 
ner of  the  pocket  where  it  will  remain 
undetected  while  the  pocket  is  pulled 
out  for  inspection.  Other  combinations 
can  be  arranged  with  the  use  of  the 
knife,  which  is  simple  to  make  and  ver/ 
inexpensive. 


Guide  for  Making  Buttonholes 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  make  a 
perfect  buttonhole  in  the  ordinary  man- 
ner by  hand  without  a  guide.  The 
illustration  shows  a  very  simple  guide 
that  can  be  easily  made  by  anyone. 
Procure  two  pieces  of  tin,  or  sheet 
brass,  cut  them  as  shown,  and  drill 
holes  in  them  large  enough  for  a  needle, 
so  that  it  will  be  easy  to  fasten  them 
to  the  cloth  with  basting  thread.  Cut 
the  buttonhole  slot,  then  punch  a  hole 
at  the  end  with  an  ordinary  belt  punch. 
Such  a  punch  can  be  purchased  from 
a  local  hardware  dealer  in  any  size.  In 
making  the  buttonhole  stitch,  keep  the 


The  Form  of  the  Buttonhole  is  Cut  in  the  Edges 
of  the  Two  Pieces  of  Metal 

needle  close  against  the  metal  edge  of 
the  guide,  as  shown. — Contributed  by 
A.  L.  Kerbaugh,  Allentown,  Pa. 


CAn  easy  way  to  put  varnish  in  the 
grooves  of  a  tennis  racket  is  to  use  a 
medicine  dropper. 


A  Child's  Playhouse 


The  child's  playhouse  is  an  expen- 
sive luxury,  if  it  is  purchased  ready  to 
set  up,  but  by  following  the  instruc- 
tions given  herewith  a  large  and  in- 
expensive one  may  be  con- 
structed. 

Procure  about  100  ft.  of  1% 
by  li/i>-in.  boards,  and  saw  out 
pieces,  as  shown.  With  the 
use  of  iron  brackets  instead  of 
nails,  it  will  be  found  much 
easier  to  construct  than  if  the 
corners  are  mortised  and  nailed 
or  glued.  The  frame  will  also 
be  much  stronger. 

When  the  frame  is  com- 
pleted, burlap  is  tacked  on  to 
make  the  covering.  The  bur- 
lap can  be  purchased  cheaply, 
and  the  best  color  to  use  is 
either  green,  red  or  brown. 
This  material  should  be  fast- 
ened on  the  different  sections 
before  they  are  hinged  to- 
gether.   To  prevent  the  burlap 


from  unraveling,  turn  the  edges  under 
before  tacking  them  down. 


The  Covered  Framework  can  be 
Used  In  or  Outdoors,  as  Desired, 
and  When  Set  Up  and  the  Wings 
Swung  Back,  It  Presents  the 
Appearance  of  a  House 


V-HINGE  HINGE-V 

Fig  2 


.OWNING 
FRAME 


WINDOW 
FRAME 


Fig  3 

The    Entire    Framework    is  Held   Together  with   Brackets,  and   is   Hinged  at   the   Joints,   so   That   It   can  be 

Folded   Up   and   Put   into   a    Small   Space,   the   Sections   being   Covered   with   Colored   Burlap   to 

Make  Them  Appear  Solid.     On  the  Right  is  Shown  the  Awning-Frame  Construction 

363 


266 


A  piece  of  wire  screen  is  used  for  the 
door.  An  old  piece  will  do,  if  it  is  well 
coated  with  black  or  dark-green  paint. 
It  is  then  tacked  on  the  inside  of  the 
door.  Fasten  the  different  parts  to- 
gether with  the  hinges.  The  hinges 
are  fastened  on  the  inside  of  the  side 
wings,  and  on  the  outside  of  the  two 
front  pieces.  With  the  hinges  placed 
in  this  manner,  the  house  can  be  folded 
into  a  small  space. 


For  the  one  built  by  the  writer,  green 
burlap  was  used,  and  by  trimming  the 
door  and  window  frames  along  the 
edges  with  white  paint  a  very  pretty 
effect  was  produced. 

A  small  awning  was  made  over  the 
window,  which  improved  the  appear- 
ance very  much.  Roller  shades  on  the 
door  and  window  and  an  electric  door 
bell  completed  a  very  neat  and  practi- 
cal playhouse. 


Removing   Basketball   from   Closed- 
Bottom  Receptacle 

The  closed-bottom  basket  used  in  the 
game  of  basketball  is  so  high  that  it 
is  difficult  to  remove  the  ball  after  a 


The  Iron   Rod  in  the  Basket  Throvvs  the   Ball  Out 
When  the  Rope  is  Pulled 

goal  is  made.  Generally  a  long  stick 
is  used  for  this  purpose,  but  I  desired 
to  have  a  better  way,  and  the  device 
shown  in  the  illustration  was  the  out- 
come. A  light  iron  rod  was  hinged 
to  the  edge  of  the  basket  and  bent  to 
its  inner  shape,  the  lower  end  resting 
at  about  the  center  of  the  basket.  A 
rope   was   attached    to   the   lower   end 


and  run  up  and  over  a  sheave  pulley 
attached  to  the  basket  support,  then 
down  so  it  could  be  easily  grasped. 
When  a  goal  is  made,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  give  a  pull  on  the  rope  for 
throwing  the  ball  out  of  the  ba.sket. — 
Contributed  by  Annie  B.  Currine,  San 
Diego,  Cal. 


Testing  Dry  Batteries 

For  testing  dry  batteries  or  any  low- 
voltage  current,  take  an  ordinary  ther- 
mometer and  wind  around  the  mercury 
bulb  enough  wire  to  make  about  10 
ohms  resistance.  This  will  make  a 
good  tester.  A  dry  cell  of  about  2  volts 
attached  to  the  ends  of  the  wire  should 
generate  enough  heat  to  expand  the 
mercury  about  four  degrees  in  one- 
half  minute. 

This  tester  is  not  as  fast  as  a  volt- 
meter, nor  has  it  as  wide  a  range,  but 
it  is  reasonably  accurate,  and  by  using 
a  battery  of  known  voltage,  the  wind- 
ing can  be  increased  or  diminished  to 
allow  the  mercury  to  expand  as  many 
degrees  as  desired  per  volt. — Con- 
triluited  by  E.  H.  Kimbrough,  Bart- 
lett,  Kan. 


A  Wall-Paper  Cleaner 

To  1  qt.  of  flour  add  about  2  oz.  of 
90-per-cent  ammonia  and  enough  luke- 
warm water  to  make  a  dough.  Wipe 
the  paper  with  this  preparation  while 
turning  and  kneading  it  as  in  making 
dough.  This  will  take  up  the  dirt  and 
a  clean  side  is  always  presented  to  the 
paper. — Contributed  by  F.  C.  Myer, 
Tacoma,  Wash. 


A  Trunk  Mystery 


Doubtless  every  person  has  seen  the 
trunk  mystery,  the  effect  of  which  is  as 
follows:  A  trunk,  mounted  upon  four 
legs,  is  brought  out  on  the  stage  and 
proven  to  be  empty  by  turning  it  all 
the  way  around  to  show  that  there  is 
nothing  on  the  back,  whereupon  pieces 
of  plate  glass  are  placed  along  the  back, 
sides,  and  front,  the  trunk  is  closed  and 


same  size  as  the  panel  attached  to  its 
bottom,  forming  a  right  angle,  the  cor- 
ner of  which  is  hinged  to  the  bottom 
of  the  trunk.  The  back  panel  can  be 
turned  in  until  it  rests  on  the  bottom 
of  the  trunk  and,  when  this  is  done, 
the  shelf  part  rises  and  takes  its  place, 
making  the  back  of  the  trunk  appear 
solid. 


A  Shelf  and  Panel  Set  at  Right  Angles  to 
Form  a  Place  at  the  Back  for  the  Assistant 
to  Conceal  Herself,  No  Matter  Which  Way 
the  Trunk  is  Turned  to   Face  the   Audience 

given  a  swift  turn  and  then  opened, 
when  to  the  amazement  of  all,  a  lady 
steps  out  appearing  to  come  from  no- 
where. The  secret  of  this  trick  is  very 
simple,  and  the  trunk  can  be  made  up 
very  cheaply. 

In  the  back  of  the  trunk  there  is  a 
movable  panel  with  a  shelf  exactly  the 


When  the  trunk 
is  brought  out 
upon  the  stage,  the  as- 
sistant is  crouching  on 
the  shelf.  The  trunk  can 
then  be  shown  empty. 
This  is  all  very  simple 
until  the  trunk  is  turned 
around  when  it  takes 
skill  not  to  give  the  trick 
away.  As  soon  as  the 
performer  starts  to  turn  the  trunk 
around,  the  assistant  shifts  her  weight 
on  the  panel,  thus  causing  it  to  fall  in- 
ward and  bring  the  shelf  up  to  make 
the  back  appear  solid.  The  assistant  is 
now  in  the  trunk,  and  the  back  can  be 
shown  clear  of  any  apparatus.  When 
the  trunk  is  turned  to  the  front  again, 


367 


268 


the  lady  repeats  the  previous  opera- 
tion in  the  opposite  direction,  thus 
bringing  her  body  to  the  back  of  the 
trunk  again. 

To  make  the  trick  appear  more  diffi- 
cult, glass  plates  are  made  to  insert  in 
the  ends,  front  and  back  of  the  trunk. 
In  making  the  trunk,  have  the  back  the 
same  size  as  the  bottom.  Fit  the  piece 
of  glass  for  the  back  into  a  light  frame, 
similar  to  a  window  frame.  This  frame 
is  hinged  to  the  bottom  of  the  trunk 
and  is  i/o  in.  smaller  all  around  than 
the  back  of  the  trunk,  so  that  the  two 
pieces  of  glass  can  be  put  in  the  ends 
and  also  allow  the  back  frame  and  glass 


to  fall  flush  in  the  bottom  of  the  trunk. 
A  few  rubber  bumpers  are  fastened  in 
the  bottom  of  the  trunk  to  catch  the 
glass  without  noise  as  it  falls.  The 
best  way  to  work  this  is  for  the  per- 
former to  let  the  frame  down  with  his 
right  hand  while  he  is  closing  up  the 
front  with  his  left. 

As  soon  as  the  trunk  is  closed,  the 
assistant  again  shifts  her  weight  to 
cause  the  panel  to  fall  in  and  then  the 
trunk  can  be  turned  to  show  the  back, 
or  whirled  around  and  turned  to  the 
front  again,  then  opened  up,  whereupon 
the  assistant  steps  out,  bows  to  the 
audience,  and  leaves  the  stage. 


How  to  Make  a  Candy-Floss  Machine 

Every  person  is  familiar  with  candy 
floss,  made  at  stands  on  fair  grounds, 
or  carnivals,  in  an  expensive  whirling 


The  Disk  is  Driven  by  a  Small  Battery  Motor  and 
Melted  Sugar  is  Spun  Out  into  Floss 

machine.  It  is  not  necessary  to  wait 
for  a  fair  or  a  carnival  to  have  a  bunch 
of  candy  floss,  as  it  can  be  made  at 


home  much  quicker  than  making  tafify 
candy. 

The  device  for  making  the  candy 
floss  consists  of  ordinary  things  that 
can  be  had  in  any  home,  and  usually  a 
boy  has  a  battery  motor  of  some  kind 
that  will  furnish  the  power. 

Procure  a  tin  pan,  the  shape  of  an 
ordinary  dish  pan  and  of  medium  size; 
cut  a  hole  about  one-half  the  diameter 
of  the  pan  in  the  bottom  and  solder 
in  a  conical-shaped  piece  similar  to  a 
cake  pan,  allowing  it  to  extend  up  in- 
side about  half  the  height  of  the  pan. 
Fasten  supports  to  the  pan  so  that  a 
Bunsen  burner  can  be  set  under  it 
where  the  flame  will  pass  through  the 
conical  center  opening. 

Mount  a  small  battery  motor  with 
its  shaft  vertical,  pulley  end  up,  and 
centering  the  conical  hole,  on  a  base, 
which  supports  the  pan.  Procure  a  can 
cover,  similar  to  that  used  on  cofTee 
cans,  and  fasten  it  with  solder  to  the 
pulley  on  the  motor  shaft,  being  care- 
ful to  locate  it  centrally  so  that  it  will 
run  smoothly. 

Close  to  the  bottom  and  in  the  rim 
of  the  can  cover,  make  a  number  of 
small  holes  with  a  prickpunch,  or  other 
sharp-pointed  tool.  Wire  the  motor  to 
the  battery,  and  the  candy-tloss  ma- 
chine is  ready  for  use. 

Light  the  burner,  start  the  motor, 
and  pour  a  little  granulated  sugar  in 
the  revolving  can  cover.  As  the  sugar 
is  melted,  it  will  be  spun  out  in  floss 


269 


form  through  the  small  holes  into  the 
pan  receiver. — Contributed  by  Herbert 
Hahn,  Chicago,  111. 


Enlarging  Pictures 

A  very  simple  and  sufficiently  ac- 
curate way  of  enlarging  pictures  by 
means  of  a  pencil  holder  and  elastic  is 
shown  in  the  illustration.  The  picture 
to  be  enlarged  is  fastened  to  a  table  top 
or  drawing  board,  and  the  paper  on 
which  it  is  to  be  drawn  is  placed  di- 
rectly below  it.  A  small  brad  or  tack 
is  driven  into  the  board  at  A,  the  loca- 
tion depending  on  the  desired  size  of 
the  enlarged  picture,  and  the  elastic  is 
attached  to  it.  The  pencil  holder  B  is 
fastened  to  the  other  end  of  the  elastic 
over  the  drawing  paper.  A  pointer,  or 
a  knot,  is  placed  in  the  elastic  at  C. 
The  pencil  holder  consists  of  a  stick  of 
wood  turned  into  a  handle  with  a  hole 
bored  centrally  for  a  pencil. 

In    use,    the    pencil    is    moved    over 


The  Size  of  the  Enlarged  Picture  Depends  on  the 

Length  of  the  Elastic  and  the  Spacing 

of  Pencil  and  Pointer 

the  drawing  paper  while  the  knot  or 
pointer  is  watched,  to  keep  it  following 
the  lines  of  the  original  drawing.  The 
stretch  of  the  elastic  is  sufficient  to  en- 
large the  parts  equally,  as  well  verti- 
cally as  horizontally. — Contributed  by 
Wm.  Weitzsacker,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


Distance  Chart  for  Wireless  Stations 

The  amateur  wireless  telegrapher 
may  be  troubled  more  or  less  regard- 
ing distances  from  other  stations.  The 
-difficulty  can  be  overcome  by  follow- 
ing a  plan  similar  to  that  of  a  parcel- 


post  map.  A  map  should  be  selected 
covering  the  desired  territory.  With 
the    home    station    as    center,    circles 


';^. r f'-\ 

/ 

^A^)!?^ 

i  \  \\i  f^ 

1    \  \?X  v^ 

\ 

wSs 

""-^        -r    ^ 

ARK       "^)^--w 

Circles  on  a  Map  the  Same  as  for  Parcel  Post  to 
Designate  Wireless  Distances 

should  be  drawn  to  diameters  corre- 
sponding in  length  to  the  scale  used  on 
the  map.  By  measuring  the  distance 
other  stations  may  be  from  any  of 
these  circles,  their  cross-country  dis- 
tance from  the  home  station  can  be 
determined  at  a  glance. — Contributed 
by  E.  L.  Hartlett,  Wausau,  Wis. 


A  Carrier  for  Fishhooks 

Hooks  that  are  attached  to  gut  or 
short  strings  are  difficult  to  carry  and 
to  keep  in  good  shape  for  use  on  a  line. 
I  made  a  carrier  that  overcame  this 
trouble,  from  a  block  of  wood.  The 
block  is  1/2  in-  i"  thickness  with  brads 
driven  into  one  end,  for  engaging  the 
loops  on  the  gut  or  string,  while  the 
hook  is  caught  on  the  opposite  end, 
the  block  being  just  long  enough  for 


^ 


X 


3 


The  String  is  Drawn  Taut  over  the  Block,  and  the 
Hooks  are  Caught  in  the  Block  End 

the  short  line.  The  hooks  will  be  held 
securely,  and  the  block  can  be  carried 
in  the  pocket. — Contributed  by  Victor 
E.  Carpenter,  South  Bend,  Ind. 


270 


A  Substitute  for  a  Pen 

Recently  I  was  hard  pressed  for  a 
pen,  and  as  none  could  be  found  and 
the  hour  was  late  it  was  necessary  to 


A  Notch  Cut  in  the  Tapered  Part  of  a  Wood  Stick 
Forms  a  Substitute  Pen 

find  a  substitute.  I  fashioned  a  pen 
from  a  piece  of  boxwood,  and  was 
agreeably  surprised  at  the  excellent 
results  obtained  with  it.  The  wood 
was  sharpened  like  a  lead  pencil  at  one 
end,  and  a  groove  was  cut  out  of  the 
tapered  part  to  hold  the  ink. — Con- 
tributed by  Richard  F.  Pohle,  Lynn, 
Massachusetts. 

CA  very  convenient  method  of  keeping 
shipping  tags  at  hand  is  to  slip  them 
on  a  desk  spindle. 


A  Bucket-Ball  Game 

This  is  a  new  indoor  game  which 
follows  out  in  principle  the  regular 
baseball  play.  It  is  an  exciting  and 
interesting  pastime,  and  while  a  cer- 
tain amount  of  skill  is  required  to 
score  runs,  a  person  who  cannot  play 
the  regular  game  can  score  as  many 
runs,  and  as  often,  as  the  best  players 
in  the  national  leagues. 

Anyone  that  is  just  a  little  handy 
with  tools  can  make  the  necessary  parts 
for  this  game.  The  tools  required  are 
a  hammer  and  a  saw.  and  the  materials 
consist  of  some  finishing  nails ;  three 
strips  of  wood,  6  ft.  long,  2  in.  wide, 
and  1  in.  thick ;  two  strips,  18  in.  long, 
4  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick ;  four  strips, 
24  in.  long,  2  in.  wide,  and  1  in.  thick; 
two  strips,  18  in.  long,  2  in.  wide,  and 
1  in.  thick;  two  blocks,  4  in.  square, 
and  1  in.  thick,  and  four  wood  buckets. 


^^n\  ^fTK 


\^^  '%^ 


The  Frame  is  Made  Up  without  a  Back,  to  Hold  the  Buckets  at  an  Angle  That  Makes  It  Difficult 
to  Toss  the  Ball  So  That  It  will  Stay  in  Any  One  of  Them 


271 


The    Player  must  Throw  the   Ball   So  That   It  will   Enter   and    Stay   in   One   of  the   Buckets, 
Which    Designates   the    Base   Hits   by    the    Number    in   Its    Bottom 


A  frame  is  built  up  as  shown,  6  ft. 
long,  18  in.  wide,  and  2i  in.  high,  with- 
out a  back.  One  of  the  long  pieces  is 
fastened  to  the  bottoms  of  the  buckets 
as  shown,  spacing  the  latter  equally 
on  the  length  of  the  piece.  This  piece 
is  then  set  in  notches  cut  in  the  blocks 
of  wood  at  an  angle  of  45°.  These 
blocks  are  fastened  to  the  upper  cross- 
pieces  at  the  ends  of  the  frame.  The 
upper  part  of  the  buckets  rest  on  the 
upper  front  piece  of  the  frame. 

The  rules  for  playing  the  game  are 
as  follows :  Three  baseballs  are  used. 
The  players  stand  about  10  ft.  distant 
and  in  front  of  the  buckets.  Each 
player,  or  side,  is  only  permitted  to 
throw  three  balls  an  inning,  irrespec- 
tive of  the  number  of  runs  scored. 
Any  kind  of  delivery  is  permitted,  but 
an  underhand  throw  will  be  found 
most  successful.  The  buckets  are 
numbered  from  1  to  4,  and  represent, 
respectively,  one,  two,  and  three-base 
hits,  and  home  runs.  The  one  in  which 
the  ball  stays  designates  the  run. 

Plays  are  figured  as  in  a  regular 
ball  game.  For  instance,  if  a  ball 
should  stay  in  bucket  No.  2  and  the 
next  in  bucket  No.  3,  the  first  man 
would  be  forced  home,  counting  one 
run,  and  leaving  one  man  on  third  base. 


If  the  next  ball  stays  in  bucket  No. 
4,  the  man  on  third  base  is  forced 
home,  as  well  as  the  one  who  scored 
the  home  run,  making  three  runs  for 
that  inning.  The  runs  should  be 
scored  as  made,  to  guard  against  con- 
fusion and  argument. — Contributed  by 
Walter  Tallev,  Pottsville,  Pa. 


A  Staple  Puller 

With  nothing 
but  ordinary 
tools  the  remov- 
ing of  staples  is 
tedious  and  diffi- 
cult work.  If  a 
suitable  -sized 
wire  nail  is  bent 
like  a  fishhook 
and  the  hook 
part  driven  un- 
der the  staple, 
the  latter  can 
be  easily  pulled 
out  by  grasping 
and  pulling  the 
nail  with  a  ham- 
mer in  the  usual 
way. — Contributed  by  R.  Neland,  Min- 
neapolis, Minn. 


272 


A  Dissolving  Coin  Trick 

This  is  a  very  simple  and,  effective 
trick.  The  articles  required  to  per- 
form *he  trick  are,  a  glass  of  water, 
a  silver  dollar,  a  handkerchief  and  a 
watch  crystal,  or  round  piece  of  glass, 
the  size  of  a  silver  dollar.  Conceal 
the  crystal  in  the  palm  of  the  hand 
and  show  the  audience  the  dollar. 
Hold  the  handkerchief  in  one  hand  and 
place  the  hand  holding  the  silver  dol- 
lar and  crystal  under  it  so  that  the 
crystal  can  he  grasped  by  the  hand 
holding  the  handkerchief.  Remove  the 
dollar  by  holding  it  in  the  palm  of  the 
hand  and  slip  it,  unobserved,  into  a 
pocket. 

Ask  some  one  in  the  audience  to  hold 
the  handkerchief  with  the  inclosed 
crystal  and  ask  him  to  let  it  drop  into 
the  glass  of  water  as  the  handkerchief 
covers  both.  The  falling  glass  can  be 
heard,  but  upon  removing  the  hand- 
kerchief nothing  can  be  seen  of  the 
dollar  or  watch  crystal.  The  circular 
glass  disk  cannot  be  seen  in  the  water. 
— Contributed  by  Albert  Biery,  Spo- 
kane, Wash. 


A  Fruit- Jar  Opener 

The  accompanying  sketch  shows  a 
handy  device  for  turning  up  and  un- 
screwing the  covers  on  glass  fruit  jars. 
The  loop  is  slipped  over  the  cover  and 
the  handle  turned  in  the  direction  of 
the  arrow.  To  unscrew  the  cover,  the 
tool  is  turned  over  and  the  handle 
turned  in  the  opposite  direction. 

The  loop  should  be  just  large 
enough  to  slip  over  the  cover  easily. 


The  Loop  in  the  Leather  Grips  the  Cap  Tightly  ^Vhen 
the  Handle  is  Turned  as  the  Arrow  Indicates 

It  is  made  of  leather  and  fastened  to  the 
wood  handle  with  screws. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  B.  Downer,  Seattle,  Wash. 


Anti-Tangle  Safety  Pin 

A  small  disk  of  rubber  or  leather, 
placed  on  a  safety  pin  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1,  will  prevent  the  fabric  which  is  fas- 


CS= 


The  Small  Disk  on  the  Pin   Prevents  the  Goods  from 
Becoming  Tangled  in  the  Coil 

tened  by  the  pin  from  becoming  tangled 
in  the  spring  loop.  The  manner  of 
using  the  pin  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 


How  to  Nickel  or  Silverplate  Iron 
by  Friction 

The  following  methods  of  plating 
iron  with  nickel  and  silver  appeared 
in  a  recent  issue  of  a  German  paper. 
In  nickelplating  iron,  a  thin  coating  of 
copper  is  first  produced  on  it  by  rub- 
bing on  a  solution  of  20  parts  sulphate 
of  copper,  5  parts  sulphuric  acid  and 
100  parts  of  water.  After  the  copper 
plate  has  been  formed  rul_>  over  it,  with 
a  rag,  a  solution  of  3  parts  tin,  6  parts 
nickel  and  1  part  iron  in  100  parts  of 
hydrochloric  acid  and  3  parts  of  sul- 
phuric acid.  If  finally  the  object  is 
rubbed  with  a  rag  that  has  been  dipped 
in  finely  pulverized  zinc,  a  nickel  de- 
posit will  be  formed  on  the  copper. 
The  thickness  of  the  deposit  of  nickel 
can  be  increased  by  repeating  the  two 
last  operations. 

According  to  a  recent  patent,  a  silver 
coating  can  be  produced  by  dissolving 
freshly  precipitated  chloride  of  silver 
in  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda, 
1.1  parts  to  10  parts  of  water,  and  add- 
ing to  this  solution  180  parts  spirits 
of  sal  ammoniac  and  then  stirring  in 
800  parts  of  finely  washed  chalk.  This 
mixture  is  applied  and  rubbed  until  it 
dries  on  the  object  being  silvered,  and 
tlie  result  is  a  brilliant  deposit  of  pure 
silver. 


CA  good  filling  for  cracks  in  old  furni- 
ture is  made  of  shellac,  either  melted 
by  heat  or  dissolved  in  alcohol  to  make 
a  thick  paste. 


373 


A  Homemade  Cradle 

The  cradle  shown  in  the  sketch  can 
be  made  quickly  and  easily  at  home 
and  will  be  found  far  more  serviceable 
than,  and  possessing  several  advan- 
tages over,  the  ones  purchased.  It  is 
made  of  a  clothes  basket,  an  iron  rod 
and   two   ordinary   chairs.     It  can   be 


A  Clothes  Basket  Supported  with  a  Rod  between 
Two  Chairs  Malies  a  Good  Cradle 

taken  down  and  the  parts  used  for  other 
purposes.  The  upper  portion  of  the 
rod  prevents  the  chairs  from  slipping. 
A  light  cloth  can  be  placed  over  the 
rod,  in  tent  fashion,  to  keep  flies  out, 
while  at  the  same  time  permitting  air 
for  ventilation. — Contributed  by  Bert 
Verne,  San  Diego,  Cal. 


o 

--PIM 


A  Removable  Post 

It  is  often  desirable  to  have  foot- 
ball and  baseball  grounds  in  public 
parks  roped  in  during  the  game,  but 
after  the  game  the 
ropes  and  stakes 
must  be  removed. 
To  drive  in  iron 
stakes  and  then  re- 
move them  is  hard 
work  and  requires 
considerable  time. 
The  sketch  shows  a 
much  better  way.  A 
piece  of  2-in.  pipe, 
about  18  in.  long,  is  sunk  level  with 
the  ground  in  the  right  location  for 
a  post.  The  post  is  made  of  li/2-in- 
pipe  of  the  length  desired.  This  will 
just  fit  inside  of  the  2-in.  pipe.  A 
wood  plug  is  fitted  in  the  upper  end 
of  the  pipe  in  the  ground  to  keep  out 
dirt  when  the  post  is  removed. — Con- 
tributed by  Abner  B.  Shaw,  N.  Dart- 
mouth, Mass. 


i 

J 

0 


String-and-Ball  Trick 

The  stopping  of  a  ball  on  a  string  at 
any  desired  point  is  understood  by  al- 
most every  person,  but  to  make  one 
that  can  be  worked 
only  when  the  oper- 
ator so  desires  is  a 
mysterious  trick. 
Procure  a  wooden 
ball,  about  2  in.  in 
diameter,  and  cut  it 
into  two  equal  parts. 
Insert  a  small  peg 
in  the  flat  surface  of 
one  half,  a  little  to 
one  side  of  the  cen- 
ter, as  shown,  and 
allow  the  end  to 
project  about  j\  in. 
The  flat  surface  of 
the  other  half  is  cut 
out  concave,  as 
shown,  to  make  it 
%  in.  deep.  The  two  halves  are  then 
glued  together,  and  a  hole  is  drilled 
centrally  on  the  division  line  for  a 
string  to  pass  through. 

To  do  the  trick,  hold  an  end  of  the 
string  in  each  hand  tightly  and  draw 
it  taut  with  the  ball  at  the  top,  then 
slacken  the  string  enough  to  allow  the 
ball  to  slide  down  the  string.  To  stop 
the  ball  at  any  point,  pull  the  string 
taut. 

Before  handing  the  ball  and  string 
out  for  inspection,  push  the  string  from 
each  side  of  the  ball  and  turn  it  slight- 
ly to  throw  it  off  the  peg.  This  will 
allow  the  string  to  pass  freely  through 
the  ball,  and  it  cannot  be  stopped  at 
will.  To  replace  the  string  reverse  the 
operation. — Contributed  by  Wm.  O. 
Swett,  Chicago. 


Wall-Paper  Cleaner 

The  following  mixture  I  have  used 
with  the  best  results  for  years.  Thor- 
oughly mix  together  3  pt.  of  wheat 
flour  and  1  pt.  of  powdered  whiting, 
then  add  sufficient  water  to  make  a 
dough.  To  clean  a  dirty  papered  wall, 
take  a  piece  of  the  dough  that  can  be 
easily   grasped   in   the   hand,    press   it 


374 


against  the  surface  and  make  a  long 
stroke  downward.  During  the  process 
of  cleaning,  keep  kneading  the  dirt  into 
the  dough.  The  preparation  can  be 
mixed  in  any  amount  desired  by  using 
the  proportions  named. — Contributed 
by  C.  W.  Bause,  Jr.,  E.  Troy,  Wis. 


Revolving  Shaft  without  Power 

The  device  illustrated  seems  para- 
doxical for  it  apparently  works  with- 
out any  power  being  applied  to  it, 
making  from  two  to  three  revolutions 
per  hour,  which,  though  slow,  is  never- 
theless motion,  requiring  energy. 

The  shaft  A  is  supported  on  the 
edges,  in  the  bearings  B  and  C,  of  a 
tank,  D.  A  disk,  E,  having  a  central 
hole  larger  in  diameter  than  the  shaft, 
is  located  at  the  middle  of  the  latter. 
The  disk  is  supported  by  12  or  more 
cotton  ropes,  F.  The  tank  is  filled 
to  the  level  G  with  water.  The  lower 
ropes,  being  immersed  in  the  water, 
shrink  and  lift  the  disk  slightly  above 
the  center  in  the  position  of  an  eccen- 
tric, as  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in 
the  sketch.  The  center  of  gravity  of 
the  disk  in  this  position,  being  higher 
and  slightly  to  one  side  of  the  shaft, 
the  disk  has  a  tendency  to  turn  around. 
The  motion  drives  the  next  rope  into 
the  water  where  it  becomes  soaked 
and  .shrinkage  takes  place  again,  lift- 
ing the  disk  to  a  higher  position,  while 
the  rope  coming  out  of  the  water  dries 


The  Expansion  and  Contraction  of  the  Ropes  Keep 
the  Disk  Up  and  to  One  Side  of  the  Center 

out.  The  ropes  emerging  from  the 
water  but  not  yet  thoroughly  dry 
cause  the  upper  part  of  the  disk  to  be 
in  an  eccentric  position  laterally  with 
reference  to  the  center  of  the  shaft, 
thus  causing  the  center  of  gravity  to 
be  not  only  above  but  also  slightly  to 
one  side. — Contributed  by  Charles 
Roberts,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


A  Paper-Bag  Holder 

A  holder,  to  accommodate  the  dif- 
ferent-sized bags  used  in  a 
store,  can  be  easily  made  of 
a  board,  6  in.  wide  and  30  in. 
long.  One  edge  of  the  board 
is  cut  with  notches  similar  to 
the  teeth  of  a  ripsaw  and 
their  back-sloping  edges  are 
drilled  to  admit  a  nail  point. 
A  sufficient  quantity  of  bags 
is  placed  in  a  pile  and  a  nail 
is  driven  through  the  edge 
near  their  upper  ends,  and 
the  projecting  point  of  the 
nail  is  stuck  into  one  of  the 
holes.  Proceed  in  the  same 
manner  with  bags  of  other 
sizes.  To  remove  a  bag,  take  hold  of 
the  lower  end  of  the  outermost  one  and 
tear  it  from  the  nail.  Be  sure  to  drive 
the  nails  through  the  bags  close  to  the 
top. — Contributed  by  Abner  B.  Sh?w, 
N.  Dartmouth,  Mass. 


Covering  for  Chalk  Trays 

The  chalk  trays  fitted  at  the  lower 
edge  of  blackboards  soon  collect  con- 
siderable chalk  dust  and  the  chalk 
sticks  dropped  into  it  are,  therefore, 
disagreeable  to  handle.  A  simple  way 
of  keeping  the  sticks  clean  is  to  cover 
the  trays  with  wire  mesh  which  is 
shaped  like  a  tray  but  not  so  deep  as 
the  chalk  tray.  Thus  the  chalk  dust 
will  fall  through  this  screen  and  be 
out  of  the  way  of  the  sticks. 


A  Curtain  Hanger 

A  close-coiled  spring,  about  1/4  i'l-  '" 
diameter,  makes  a  much  better  hanger 
for  a  short  curtain  than  a  small  rod. 
The  spring  should  be  about  1  in. 
shorter  than  the  width  of  the  window 
and  fastened  with  screwhooks.  The 
spring  is  preferable  not  only  because 
it  is  less  apt  to  tear  the  fabric,  as  it 
will  give  some  if  the  curtain  is  pulled, 
but  also  for  the  reason  that  it  is  much 
easier  to  put  it  through  the  hem  than 
the  rod. — Contributed  by  Walter 
Ramm,  New  York  City. 


275 


Joints    for    Model    Aeroplane 

In  constructing  model  or  toy  aero- 
planes the  strips  used  are  so  slender 
that  it  is  difficult  to  join  them  at  the 
ends  with  brads  without  splitting  them. 
If  glue  is  used,  there  is  danger  of 
breaking  two  or  more  ribs,  should  it 
be  necessary  to  remove  a  broken  or  de- 
fective rib. 

An  empty  22-gauge  long  cartridge 
can  be  formed  into  an  elbow  that  will 
connect  the  framework  accurately,  give 
more  strength  than  glue  or  brads,  and 
allow  a  broken  section  to  be  removed 
without  spoiling  the  other  part  of  the 
framework.  File  off  the  end  A,  Fig. 
1,  so  that  the  shell  will  form  a  straight 
tube,  and  file  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  with 
a  three-cornered  file.  Then  bend  the 
two  sections  into  the  form  shown  in 
Fig.  3  and  solder  the  adjacent  edges. 
File  ofif  the  rough  spots  and  drill  small 
holes,  as   shown,   for  the   insertion   of 


^^^ 


Fig. 4 
Cartridge  Shells  Used  for  Joints 

pins  to  hold  the  wood  strips.  Much 
time  in  the  building  of  model  aero- 
planes can  be  saved  by  keeping  a  sup- 
ply of  these  elbows  on  hand. 


CA  deep  rust  on  tools  may  be  removed 
by  soaking  them  in  a  strong,  hot  bath 
of  potash  and  water  for  a  half  hour, 
then  dipping  them  into  a  solution  of 
1  part  muriatic  acid  in  2  parts  cold 
water. 


An  Indoor  Baseball  Game 

An  indoor  game  of  baseball  may  be 
played  on  a  board  5  ft.  long  and  3  ft. 
wide.  A  diamond  is  laid  ofif  at  one 
end  of  the  board  and   pins   represent- 


Baseball  Diamond  on  a  Board 

ing  the  hits  are  attached  to  the  board 
so  they  will  project  above  the  surface. 
The  locations  of  the  players  are  des- 
ignated by  holes  bored  part  way  in 
the  wood  with  an  expansive  bit.  These 
holes  should  be  large  enough  to  re- 
ceive the  rings  easily.  The  rings  may 
be  gaskets  or  they  may  be  made  of 
rope,  and  should  have  an  inside  diam- 
eter of  about  3  in. 

Only  two  persons  can  play  at  this 
game.  The  distance  from  the  board 
to  the  thrower  may  be  from  10  to  100 
ft.,  according  to  the  size  of  the  room. 
This  distance  should  be  marked  and 
each  thrower  stand  at  the  same  place. 

If  the  ring  is  thrown  over  one  of 
the  "base-hit"  or  "two-bagger"  pegs, 
it  shows  the  number  of  bases  secured. 
Throwing  a  ring  over  one  of  the  "home- 
run"  pegs  means  a  score,  of  course. 
The  "infield  hit"  secures  a  base.  If 
the  ring  slips  into  a  hole,  that  counts 
one  out.  A  player  must  throw  until 
he  has  three  outs.     The  score  is  kept 


376 


for    the    runs    made. — Contributed    by 
Francis  P.  Hobart,  Willoughby,  O. 


A   Lantern   for   the    Camp 

A  very  desirable  lantern  for  camp 
use  is  one  that  utilizes  a  candle  instead 
of  a  lamp.  Such  a  lantern  can  be 
made  of  an  ordinary 
oil-lantern  globe,  a 
block  of  wood,  some 
galvanized  wire,  a 
few  nails,  a  metal 
collar,  and  a  hood  of 
zinc  or  tin.  The 
block  of  wood  is  cut 
octagonally  and  the 
metal  collar  is  fas- 
tened to  it  as  shown. 
Four  headless  nails 
are  driven  into  the 
center  of  the  block, 
spaced  so  as  to  hold 
an  ordinary  candle 
securely.  The  wire 
is  formed  into  a  U-shape  and  the  ends 
fastened  into  the  block  of  wood  out- 
side of  the  candle  socket,  and  within 
the  globe  circle.  A  conical  piece  of  tin 
or  zinc  is  formed  to  fit  over  the  top  of 
the  globe  as  shown.  As  the  candle 
does  not  require  much  draft  there  is 
no  opening  provided. — Contributed  by 
Addison  W.  Baird,  M.  D.,  New  York 
City. 


Electric  Lights  Controlled  from  Two 
or  More   Switches 

Many  times  it  is  quite  an  advantage 
to  have  a  lamp  or  grooip  of  lamps  so 
connected  that  the  current  may  be 
turned    on    or    ofif    by    any    one    of   a 


j& 


^h 


TO  SOURCE  or   CNtRGY 


000000 


Fig. I 
Lamps  Controlled  from  Two  Switches 

number  of  different  switches.  For  ex- 
ample, the  lights  in  a  long  hall  or 
passage-way  can  be  lighted  or  extin- 


guished by  operating  a  switch  at 
either  end  of  the  hall ;  the  lights  in  the 
upper  and  lower  halls  of  a  residence, 
turned  on  or  off  by  operating  a  switch 
upstairs  or  downstairs  as  the  case 
might  demand ;  the  lights  in  the 
garage,  controlled  by  switches  at  both 
the  inside  and  outside  door,  etc. 

The  method  of  connecting  a  number 
of  lamps  to  a  circviit  so  that  they  can 
be  controlled  from  either  of  two 
switches  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The 
switches,  as  illustrated  in  this  drawing, 
are  in  such  a  position  that  the  lamps 
will  burn.  If  either  of  the  switches  be 
thrown  to  its  other  position  (there  are 
two  positions  for  each  switch),  the  cir- 
cuit will  be  opened.  The  operation 
then  of  either  switch  will  again  close 
the  circuit. 

The  method  of  connecting  a  number 
of  lamps  to  a  circuit  so  that  they  can 
be  controlled  by  any  number  of 
switches  is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The 
switches  are  all  in  such  a  position  that 
the  lamps  will  burn.  If  any  one  of  the 
switches  be  turned  to  its  second  posi- 
tion (all  the  switches  have  two  posi- 
tions), the  circuit  will  be  open.  The 
dotted  lines  at  switch  C  show  the  con- 


TO  50URCE  OF  ENERGY 


0  0  0  0  0  0" 


F(G.2 
Lamps  Controlled  by  Any  Number  of  Switches 

nections  through  switch  C  after  it  has 
been  operated.  Operating  switch  D 
then  will  again  close  the  circuit,  by 
using  the  dotted  lines  in  switches  C 
and  D.  The  wiring  for  the  control  of 
lamps,  as  just  indicated,  must  comply 
with  the  underwriters'  requirements, 
and  also  city  requirements,  if  the  work 
be  done  in  a  place  having  city  regula- 
tions for  electric  wiring. 


CWire  netting  may  be  cut  by  laying 
it  on  the  side  edge  of  a  spade  and  strik- 
insr  it  with  a  hammer. 


277 


Electric  Score  Board  for  Indoor  Games 


A  very  satisfactory  electric  score 
board,  for  use  in  scoring  basketball 
and  other  games  played  indoors,  is 
shown  in  the  illustration.  It  is  con- 
structed entirely  of  wood,  but  should 
be  lined  with  asbestos  board  or  sheath- 
ing. The  dimensions  are  a  matter  of 
choice,  but  one  4  ft.  long,  2  ft.  wide 
and  18  in.  deep  is  a  good  size.  The 
back  of  the  box  is  provided  with  two 
cleats,  each  S^/o  ft.  long,  fastened  at 
each  end.  This  allows  a  projection  of 
3  in.  at  the  top  and  bottom,  for  fasten- 
ing the  score  board  to  the  wall.  The 
manner  of  construction  is  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  and  a  cross  section  of  the  box, 
in  Fig.  2. 

The  front  of  the  box  should  be  fas- 
tened with  screws  so  as  to  make  its 
removal  easy  in  case  of  repairs.  This 
part  of  the  box  carries  the  frame  for 
inserting  the  numbers  and  the  words 
"Home  Team"  and  "Visitors,"  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  As  the  words  are  a 
permanent  fixture,  the  cards  carrying 
them  are  fastened  to  the  front.  At  the 
end  of  these  words  a  frame  is  con- 
structed as  shown  in  Fig.  -1,  in  which 
the  cards  having  the  numbers  are  in- 
serted in  slides. 

Numerals  and  letters  can  be  cut  out 
of  heavy  cardboard  or  tin.  The  de- 
sign of  a  letter  having  sharp  angles 
and  straight  edges,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
5,  is  very  easily  cut  out  with  a  chisel. 
The  method  of  cutting  is  shown  in 
Fig.  6. 

As  portions  of  the  letters  and  num- 
erals, such  as  the  center  in  an  O,  would 
fall  out  if  cut  entirely  around,  some 
way  must  be  provided  to  hold  the 
parts   in  place.     The   way   to   prepare 


stencils  is  to  leave  a  portion  uncut, 
which  is  known  as  a  tie,  and  the  letter 
will  appear  as  shown  in  Fig.  7. 


Electric  Indoor  Score  Board,  Showing  Its  Construction 
and  manner  of  Cutting  Out  the  Letters  and  Numbers 

The  best  method  for  making  these 
letters  and  figures  is  to  cut  out  the 
letter  entirely,  then  to  paste  thin  paper 
over  the  back  and  replace  the  parts  re- 
moved by  the  cutting  in  their  original 
position. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


A  Mission  Frame  for  an  Alarm  Clock 

The  old  nickelplated  alarm  clock 
which  usually  adorns  the  kitchen  man- 
tel is,  to  say  the  least,  not  ornamental, 
and  I  improved  the  appearance  of  mine 


278 


without  lessening  its  usefulness  by 
making  a  small  case  in  mission  style 
for  it. 

The    sketch    shows   a   design   which 
is  neat  and  easily  made.     Accurate  di- 


An  Alarm  Clock  with  a  Wood   Covering   Ornamented 
and  Finished  in  Mission  Style 


mensions  cannot  be  given  as  these  will 
vary  with  the  size  of  the  clock.  Quar- 
ter-sawed oak,  14  in.  thick,  is  the  best 
material  to  use.  The  front  and  back 
can  be  cut  on  a  jigsaw,  the  opening 
for  the  clock  face  being  cut  slightly 
smaller  than  the  metal  of  the  clock  so 
that  only  the  face  shows.  An  opening 
in  the  back  piece  should  be  cut  a  little 
smaller  than  the  one  in  front,  to  pro- 
vide a  free  opening  for  winding  the 
clock.  Fasten  the  parts  together  with 
small  round-head  brass  brads  or 
screws  and  finish  to  match  the  furni- 
ture. A  small  desk  clock  can  be  made 
in  a  similar  manner,  using  a  cheap 
watch  instead  of  the  alarm  clock. — 
Contributed  by  C.  E.  Hamann,  Somer- 
ville,    Mass. 


Mixing  Sulphuric  Acid 

One  of  the  first  lessons  given  a 
student  in  chemistry  is  how  to  mix 
sulphuric  acid  with  water.  This  would 
naturally  be  supposed  to  be  very  easy, 
yet,  if  it  is  not  done  right,  it  will  surely 
result  in  injury  to  the  person  doing 
the  mixing. 

The  specific  gravity  of  sulphuric 
acid   is   1.849  and,  on  account   of   its 


chemical  attraction  to  water,  great 
heat  is  set  up  or  generated  when  the 
two  are  being  mixed.  If  the  acid  is  put 
into  a  jar  and  the  water  poured  onto 
it,  they  will  be  temporarily  separated, 
as  the  heavy  acid  will  remain  at  the 
bottom,  the  chemical  reaction  taking 
place  on  the  dividing  line  only.  This 
soon  generates  heat  which  rapidly  in- 
creases until  steam  is  formed.  Then 
the  water  boils  over  and  finally  be- 
comes a  bubbling  volcano  which  read- 
ily ejects  the  contents  of  the  jar.  As 
the  mixture  at  this  moment  is  very 
hot,  bad  burns  will  be  the  result, 
which  are  aggravated  by  the  biting  of 
the  acid;  and  clothing  or  anything 
that  it  comes  in  contact  with  will  be 
ruined  or  badly  damaged.  Always  re- 
member this  caution :  add  the  acid  to 
the  water. 

The  following  is  the  proper  way  to 
proceed  in  mixing  sulphuric  acid  as 
well  as  other  acids  of  lighter  weight. 
Place  the  water  in  a  jar  and  pour  the 
acid  in,  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  the 
mixture  with  a  wooden  stick.  The 
mixing  process  will  always  heat  the 
solution,  which  in  many  instances, 
must  be  allowed  to  cool  before  using. 


A  Chinese  Pagoda 

Fold  the  end  of  a  long  and  narrow 
strip  of  paper  over  several  times  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1  and  roll  the  entire 
length  over  a  stick,  then  remove  the 
roll    and    crease,    or    make    it    fiat,    as 


F1G.2 


Fig. 3 


Fig,  I 


F1G.4 


F1G.5 


Stages    in    Making    the   Strip    of   Paper 
into    the    Finished    Pagoda 

shown  in  Fig.  2.  Make  two  cuts  with 
a  sharp  knife  centrally  so  that  they 
reach   to   the   several   folds   first  made 


279 


on  the  inner  end  of  the  paper,  then 
cut  the  fold  in  the  paper  between  the 
cuts  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  and  bend 
the  ends  over  to  form  the  shape 
in  Fig.  4.  Insert  the  knife  blade 
under  the  first  fold  and  draw  it  out 
until  the  paper  takes  the  form  in 
Fig.  5. 

These  pagodas  can  be  made  large 
or  small,  as  desired,  and  also  varied 
in  several  ways.  Large  ones  can  be 
formed  and  used  as  small  tree  orna- 
ments. All  that  is  necessary  to  make 
them  high  is  to  roll  up  one  strip  of 
paper  on  another  in  the  rolling 
process. 

In  rolling  up  several  strips,  one  on 
top  of  the  other  successively,  various 
colored  papers  may  be  used  and  the 
appearance  is  greatly  enhanced. — Con- 
tributed by  Chas.  C.  Bradley,  W. 
Toledo,  O. 


shown  in  the  sketch.      In  this  way  the 
work    can    be    done    better   and    more 


A  Cuspidor  Carrier 

The  task  of  handling  cuspidors  'un- 
der all  conditions  is  anything  but  pleas- 
ant, but  the  carrier 
shown  in  the  sketch 
makes  quite  an  im- 
provement over  ordi- 
nary methods.  The 
carrier  consists  of  an 
iron  rod,  Y^  in.  in  di- 
ameter and  3  ft.  long. 
One  end  is  bent  to 
fit  around  the  neck 
of  the  cuspidor  and 
the  other  is  shaped  into  a  handle. 


Guide  for  Grinding  a  Plane  Iron 

When  a  plane  iron  has  been  sharp- 
ened a  number  of  times,  it  often  be- 
comes so  out  of  square  that  the  edge 
cannot  be  made  parallel  with  the  bot- 
tom of  the  plane  block,  even  by  using 
the  lateral  adjustment.  A\'here  this 
happens,  the  plane  iron  must  be  re- 
ground.  If  an  emery  wheel  mounted 
in  a  polishing  head  or  lathe  is  at  hand, 
this  can  be  easily  accomplished. 
Loosen  the  plane-iron  cap  and  screw 
it  down  at  right  angles  to  the  plane 
iron,    also    reverse    the    tool    rest    as 


The  Plane-Iron    Cap 

Turned     at     Right 

Angles,  Provides 

a  Guide  to  Grind 

the    Edge 

Straight 


quickly  than  by  the  usual  method. — 
Contributed  by  L.  S.  UphoiT,  Schenec- 
tady, N.  Y. 


To  Prevent  Torch  Lights  from 
Smoking 

In  the  shop  or  factory  oil  torches 
are  sometimes  used  and  much  trouble 
is  experienced  by  the  excessive  smok- 
ing of  the  tlame.  This  occurs  because 
too  much  carbon  remains  unburned, 
and  can  be  remedied  by  first  soaking 
the  wick  in  a  weak  solution  of  acetic 
acid.  A  5-per-cent  solution  can  be 
purchased  for  a  few  cents  at  anv  drug 
store  and  will  soak  a  great  number  of 
wicks.  The  acid  is  not  poisonous  un- 
less taken  internally. 


A  Lard  and  Fruit  Presser 

A  very  simple  but  handy  device  for 
pressing  out  lard,  juices  for  jelly,  or 
fruit  for  marmalade,  is  made  from  two 
boards,  each  18  in.  long,  3  in.  wide  and 
1/2  in.  thick,  formed  into  the  shape  of 
paddles  and  hinged  together.  The 
hinge  is  made  by  running  a  wire 
through  holes  bored  in  one  end  of  the 
paddles  and  twisting  the  ends  together 


Two  Paddles  Hinged  Together  with  a  Piece  of  Wire 
Make  a  Presser  for  Lard  and  Fruits 

as  shown.  This  presser  will  save  the 
hands  from  stains  and  other  effects  of 
ihe  juices. — Contributed  by  Julia  A. 
White,  Glenburg,  Pa. 


280 


An  Electric-Light  Bulb  as  Barometer 

To  use  a  discarded  electric  bulb  as 
a  fairly  reliable  barometer  the  point  is 
broken  off  with  a  pair  of  pliers  while 
holding  the  bulb  under  water.  As  the 
bulb  is  a  vacuum,  it  completely  fills 
with  water.  If  the  bulb  is  now  sus- 
pended from  a  wire  or  thread  fastened 
at  the  socket  end,  the  water  will  not 
run  out  of  it  in  fair  weather  when  the 
atmospheric  pressure  is  normal  or  high, 
but  if  tlie  pressure  falls,  as  happens 
when  bad  weather  is  approaching,  the 
water  will  begin  to  bulge  out  of  the 
small  opening  and  sometimes  a  small 
drop  may  even  fall  off.  When,  with  re- 
turning fair  weather,  the  atmospheric 
pressure  increases,  the  water  can  no 
longer  bulge  or  drop  out  of  the  bulb. 


in  the  same  time.  It  is  only  necessary 
to  move  the  table  slightly  and  watch 
the  pendulum  picked  out  until  it  be- 


A   Swinging-Pendulum  Trick 

To  swing  a  pendulum,  picked  out 
from  a  number  of  them  at  random, 
without  touching  it  is  a  very  puzzling 
trick.  The  articles  necessary  are  a  med- 
ium-sized table  and  a  number  of  pen- 
dulums, some  of  which  are  suspended 
from  a  rod  with  their  lower  weighted 
ends  inside  of  water  and  wine  glasses 
placed  on  the  table,  and  others  at- 
tached to  corks  so  that  they  will  hang 
inside  of  bottles. 

The  spectators  gather  around  the 
table  which  can  be  in  full  light.  The 
performer  sits  at  one  side  of  the  table 
with  his  hands  flat  on  the  top.  A  per- 
son may  pick  out  any  pendulum  and 
ask  him  to  swing  it,  which  he  will  pro- 
ceed to  do  without  touching  it,  also 
making  it  strike  the  glass  while  it 
swings.  Another  pendulum  may  be 
pointed  out  and  he  will  start  that  one 
apparently  by  looking  at  it,  while  the 
other  one  stops. 

This  may  seem  to  be  impossible,  yet 
it  is  very  easy.  It  will  be  seen  that 
no  two  pendulums  have  the  same 
length.  A  pendulum  makes  a  certain 
number  of  swings  in  a  given  time,  de- 
pending on  its  length.  A  long  pendu- 
lum requires  more  time  to  complete 
its  swing  and  will,  therefore,  make  a 
less  number  of  swings  than  a  short  one 


Any  One  Pendulum  can 
be   Made  to  Swing  at  Will 
by  Moving  the  Table  Slightly 

gins  to  swing  independently  of  the 
others,  which  soon  happens.  To  make 
the  longer  pendulums  swing,  longer 
movements  of  the  table  top  must  be 
made.  With  a  little  practice  anyone 
can  become  a  skilled  medium  in  pendu- 
lum swinging. — Contributed  by  James 
A.   Hart,  "Philadelphia,   Pa. 


Applying  a  Strap  Hinge 

An  ordinary  strap  hinge  can  be  ap- 
plied to  a  door  or  box  cover  in  such  a 
way  that  only  one  wing  will  show. 
Ordinarily  the  hinge  opens  as  at  A, 
and,  on  reversing  it,  the  hinge  will  open 
to  the  limit  as  shown  at  B.  If  one  wing 
is  bent  toward  the  other,  as  shown  at 
C,  the  hinge  may  be  applied  as  shown 


Reversing  a  Strap  Hinge  So  That  When  It  is  Applied 
Only  One  Wing  will  Show 

at  D.  As  this  process  reverses  the 
hinge,  the  screw  holes  must  be  coun- 
tersunk on  the  opposite  side. 


281 


Tricks   Performed  with  Thumbs   Tied  Together 


To  have  one's  thumbs  securely  tied 
together  by  any  person  in  an  audience 
and  examined  by  the  spectators,  then 
have  some  one  throw  a  hoop  or  bicycle 
rim  on  one  of  the  performer's  arms  as 
if  the  thumbs  were  not  tied,  seems  im- 
possible, yet  this  trick  can  be  done, 
and  its  simplicity  is  its  own  protection, 
even  though  performed  close  to  a  com- 
mittee selected  from  the  audience.  A 
stick  can  be  held  perpendicularly  by 
anyone  with  one  hand  at  each  end  and 
the  performer  can  thrust  his  arms  at 
the  stick  which  passes  between  them 
with  the  thumbs  apparently  tied 
tightly  together.  The  same  effect  is 
produced  on  the  arm  of  any  person, 
while  the  hands  are  tightly  clasped, 
and  before  and  after  each  movement 
the  tied  thumbs  are  examined  by  the 
committee. 

The  two  cords  used  for  the  trick 
are  made  as  follows:  The  first  should 
be  about  17  in.  long,  14  in.  in  diameter 


Manner  of  Crossing  the  Thumbs  to  Receive  the 
Double  Tie  of  the  Cord 


at  its  center  and  tapering  to  points  at 
the  ends.  The  other  cord  is  about  13 
in.  long,  1/8  in.  in  diameter  in  the  center 


and  also  tapering  at  the  ends.  They 
are  constructed  of  Chinese  or  Japanese 
paper,  wl],ich  is  a  soft,  but  very  tough, 


The  Cords  as  They  are   Placed  around   the    Thumbs 
and  Tied  in   a   Double  Knot 

fibrous  texture.  Cut  the  paper  into 
strips,  1  in.  wide,  taking  care  that  the 
grain,  or  rather  the  fiber,  runs  length- 
wise. Beginning  at  one  end,  twist  the 
paper  on  itself  at  an  angle  as  in  rolling 
the  old-fashioned  paper  lamp  lighter. 
Each  turn  should  lap  over  the  former 
about  half  of  its  width.  When  within 
3  in.  of  the  end  of  the  first  strip  apply 
another  by  moistening  the  joining  ends 
and  continue  the  twisting.  When  the 
length  given  is  reached,  break  ofif  the 
strip  and  start  back  over  the  first  in 
the  opposite  direction.  Lay  on  enough 
layers  to  secure  the  diameter  given. 
When  finished,  the  cords  should  be 
strong  enough  to  resist  the  pressure 
applied  by  the  hands. 

With  all  fingers  pressed  together 
spread  both  thumbs  away  from  the 
hands,  as  shown  at  A.  Lay  the  right 
thumb  across  the  left,  as  at  B,  the  large 
knuckle  bone  of  one  lying  directly  over 
that  of  the  other.  The  largest  cord  is 
laid  over  the  crossing  and  both  ends 
brought     down,     crossed     under     the 


282 


thumbs,  then  up  again,  and  tied  in  two 
knots  on  top  of  the  riglit  thumb,  as  at 
C.  The  trick  in  the  tying  is  at  this 
point.  Just  as  the  tie  is  being  made 
pull  the  left  thumb  until  the  smallest- 
diameter  joints  reach  the  cord  and  pull 
down  with  the  left  hand.  Push  the 
right  thumb  so  that  the  fleshy  part  en- 
ters as  far  as  possible  into  the  cords. 
Insist  on  the  tie  being  made  tightly. 

The  second  and  smaller  cord  is  laid 
below  the  right  thumb  as  shown  at  D, 
and  on  top  of  the  left  against  the  first 
cord,  crossed,  brought  back  and  tied 
twice.  When  this  is  being  done  re- 
verse the  pushing  and  pulling  as  de- 
scribed, pushing  the  left  thumb  and 
pulling  out  on  the  right.  Secure  all 
the  slack  on  the  left  thumb,  the  right 
being  pushed  into  the  cords  at  its 
smallest  diameter  and  the  second  cord 
being  tied  high  up  and  as  near  the 
right  thumb  as  possible,  with  knots 
tightly  drawn.  If  this  second  knot  is 
not  tight  it  will  give  trouble  in  per- 
forming the  trick. 

The  release  is  made  by  bringing  ♦he 
tips  of  the  fingers  together  and  plac- 
ing the  thumbs  into  the  palms.  If  the 
ties  have  been  carefully  made  there  will 
be  no  trouble  to  withdraw  the  left 
thumb  as  it  is  masked  by  the  hands. 
The  peculiar  nature  of  the  paper  cord 
causes  the  loop  from  which  the  thumb 
was  removed  to  remain  open  and  rigid 
as  a  wire  loop,  and  if  the  last  tie  was 
tightly  drawn,  the  second  cord  will  not 
slip  down  to  close  the  loop.  In  ap- 
proaching the  hoop,  stick,  or  arm. 
touch  the  thing  to  be  passed  with  the 
finger  tips  and  withdraw  them,  sway- 
ing backward  a  few  times  and,  in  the 
last  swing  before  making  the  pass,  re- 
move the  thumb  from  the  loop.  After 
passing,  replace  the  thumb  in  the  loop. 
In  passing  the  object,  open  the  finger 
tips,  then  close  them  and  open  the 
palms,  and  push  the  left  thumb  back 
into  the  loop,  close  the  palms  and  ap- 
ply a  strain  on  both  thumbs,  then  show 
the  tie.  Be  careful  to  press  both 
thumbs  closely  into  the  palms  in  pass- 
ing so  that  they  will  not  strike  the 
object. 

Always  exhibit  the  tie  from  the  back 


of  the  hands  with  the  palms  spread  out. 
If  there  is  any  difficulty  in  drawing 
out  or  replacing  the  thumb  in  the  loop, 
it  is  because  the  ties  have  not  been 
properly  made  or  tied  when  the  thumbs 
were  in  the  right  place.  It  requires 
some  practice  to  do  the  trick  quickly. — 
Fayette. 


A  Way  to  Keep  Home  Accounts 

An  easy  way  to  keep  track  of  all  the 
home  expenses  is  by  the  popular  card 
system.  The  index  cards  can  be  had 
at  any  stationery-supply  house.  Place 
the  cards  in  a  box  on  end  and  have  a 
good  supply  of  blanks  back  of  them 
ready  for  use.  Under,  or  back  of,  each 
letter  place  as  many  blanks  as  is  neces- 
sary, and  almost  instantly  any  item  of 
expense  in  the  home  may  be  found, 
such  as  the  cost  of  coal  for  the  year, 
drugs,  meat,  the  cost  of  clothing  for 
a  child,  and  the  account  of  the  head  of 
the  family.  The  boy's  account  might 
read  as  follows  under  the  letter  J  : 

Johnnie 

Jan.     S     Shoes     $3..50 

Jan.   l."»     Book    4.5 

Jan.   1^0      Hair  cut 2~i 

Feb.    1     Stockings    75 

and  so  on  through  the  year.  The  mother 
can  see  at  a  glance  just  when  the  last 
shoes  were  bought,  and  how  much  it 
cost  for  books  and  paper. 

Everything  pertaining  to  the  home 
keeping  can  be  so  recorded  and  each 
year  compared.  Once  given  a  trial  no 
other  bookkeeping  will  be  required  in 
the  home  where  time  counts.  Children 
can  be  taught  to  keep  account  of  their 
expenses  in  this  way,  and  thus  thrift 
and  good  business  methods  are  encour- 
aged.— Contributed  by  Harriette  I. 
Lockwood,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


How  to  Make  a  Blowgun 

Either  a  12-in.  length  of  a  small  cur- 
tain-rod tubing  or  a  straight  piece  of 
small  bamboo  pole,  cut  ofif  between  the 
joints,  can  be  used  for  the  gun  part 
of  this  simple  device.  If  bamboo  is 
used,  see  that  it  is  cleaned  out  smoothly 
on  the  inside. 

The  dart  used  in  the  gun  is  shown 


283 


at  A  in  the  illustration.  It  is  made  by 
threading  the  eye  of  a  darning  needle 
full  of  yarn,  clipping  all  the  strands 
off  to  a  uniform  length  of  about  %  in., 
and  then  picking  out  the  fibers  into 
a  brushlike  mass  above  the  needle's 
eye.  Another  needle  or  pin  can  be 
used  for  fuzzing  the  threads.  The 
point  to  observe  is  that  the  brush  is  of 
somewhat  larger  diameter  than  the 
bore  of  the  gun,  so  that  when  the 
needle  is  pushed  into  the  mouth  end 
the  brush  will  be  compressed  and  make 
an  air-tight  plug. 

After  thus  inserting  the  dart,  hold 
it  as  shown"  and  give  a  quick,  sharp 
blast  of  the  breath  into  the  gun.  The 
dart  will  travel  with  great  speed  and 
accuracy  for  20  ft.  or  more,  and  stick 
wherever  it  strikes.     The  point  being 


The  Blowgun  is  Made  of  a  Piece  of  Tubing,  and  the 
Dart  of  a  Darning  Needle 

so  small,  it  can  be  used  in  the  house 
for  shooting  at  a  paper  target  pinned 
to  the  wall  without  injury  to  the  plas- 
ter or  woodwork. — Contributed  by  C. 
C.    Fraser,   Saginaw,   Mich. 


A  Brush  for  Applying  Soldering  Acid 

A  good  brush  for  applying  acid  to 
articles  for  soldering  can  be  made  of 
a  piece  of  small  copper  pipe  for  the 
handle,  and  fine  copper  wire  for  the 
brush.  To  make  the  brush  part,  take 
a  piece  of  cardboard,  about  IVi  in. 
wide,  and  wind  several  turns  of  No. 
28  gauge  copper  wire  around  it,  then 
remove  the  coil,  insert  about  Vi  'n.  of 
it  in  the  pipe,  and  flatten  the  latter  to 
hold  the  wire.  Clip  the  ends  of  the 
wire,  and  a  brush  will  be  had  that  or- 
dinary acids  will  not  affect.  If  only 
a  short  piece  of  pipe  is  available,  it  can 
be  used  as  a  ferrule  and  a  handle  made 
of  wire  or  wood. — Contributed  bv  A. 
R.  Cunning.  W.  New  Brighton,  N.  Y. 


Inkwell  and  Penholder 

An  empty  paste  pot  with  a  water 
well  in  the  center  makes  an  excellent 
inkwell  and  pen- 
holder. Fill  the 
exterior  well  A 
with  cement  or 
plaster  of  paris. 
push  the  number 
of  penholders  to 
be  held  into  the 
cement  before  it 
sets,  moving 
them  about  occa- 
sionally to  pre- 
vent the  cement 
from  sticking  to 
them  and  to 
make  the  hole  a 
little  larger  than 

the  holder.  The  part  B  is  for  the  ink. — 
Contributed  by  R.  F.  Pinkney,  Lazar- 
eto  del  Mariel,  Cuba. 


A   Homemade  Loose-Leaf  Pocket 
Memorandum 

The  little  memorandum  illustrated 
herewith  is  very  handy  to  carry  in 
the  coat  or  vest  pocket  for  taking 
notes,  etc.  Loose  leaves  may  be  sup- 
plied with  very  little  trouble.  It  con- 
sists of  a  fold  of  paper,  cut  as  shown 
and  pasted  at  the  ends.  The  pocket 
thus    formed    will    easily   hold    3    doz. 


The  Holder  is  Made  of  Heavy  Manila  Paper  and 
will  Stand  Considerable  Wear 

sheets  and  the  slits  cut  on  the  outside 
will  admit  8  sheets. — Contributed  by 
C.  B.  Hanson,  Fitchburg,  Mass. 


CAn    ideal    cleaner    for   kid   gloves    is 
carbon  tetrachloride. 


284 


Rubber-Band-Change  Trick 

The  trick  of  changing  a  rubber  band 
from  the  first  and  second  fingers  to  tlie 
third  and  fourth,  if  done  quickly,  can 


Transferring  Rubber  Band  from  the  First  Two 
Fingers  to  the  Last  Pair,  Like  Magic 

be  performed  without  detection  by  any 
one.  The  band  on  the  first  two  fingers 
is  shown  to  the  spectator  as  in  Fig.  1, 
with  the  back  of  the  hand  up.  The 
hand  is  then  turned  over  and  the  band 
drawn  out  quickly,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
in  a  manner  as  to  give  the  impression 
that  the  ])and  is  whole  and  on  the  two 
fingers.  While  doing  this,  quicklj^  fold 
all  the  fingers  so  that  their  ends  enter 
the  band,  and  turn  the  hand  over  and 
let  go  the  band,  then  show  the  back 
with  the  fingers  doubled  up.  In  reality 
the  fingers  will  be  in  the  l^and,  as  in 
Fig.  3.  and  the  back  will  still  show  the 
band  on  the  first  two  fingers.  Quickly 
straighten  out  all  the  fingers,  and  the 
band  will  snap  over  the  last  two  fin- 
gers, as  shown  in  Fig.  4. — Contributed 
by  E.  K.  Marshall,  Oak  Park,  111. 


A   Swinging  Electric-Light  Bracket 

The  light  bracket  shown  is  both  or- 
namental and  useful  and  can  be  swung 
from  one  side  of  the  room  to  the  other 
in  an  instant,  a  feature  that  is  of  great 
value  in  a  dimly  lighted  kitchen.  It  can 
be  made  of  either  brass  or  soft  iron, 
but,  for  the   sake  of  convenience,  the 


description  will  be  for  one  made  of 
brass. 

Procure  four  pieces  of  brass,  1  in. 
wide,  Vs  in.  thick  and  7  in.  long,  and 
bend  them  to  the  shape  shown  at  A. 
These  are  to  form  the  ceiling  bracket. 
A  I'V-in.  hole  is  drilled  in  the  end  of 
each  piece  to  be  against  the  ceiling. 
The  other  end  is  bent  slightly  concave 
and  soldered  to  a  brass  collar.  B,  which 
is  threaded  on  the  inside.  This  collar 
must  be  of  such  a  size  that  it  will  screw 
on  the  end  of  a  brass  pipe,  C,  1  in.  in 
outside  diameter.  The  length  of  this 
pipe  should  l^e  18  or  20  inches. 

The  base  D  of  the  bracket  is  made  of 
a  brass  bar,  Vs  in.  thick,  i/o  in.  wide  and 
45  in.  long,  a  scroll  being  turned  on  6 
in.  of  its  length  at  the  globe  end,  and  3 
in.  of  the  other  end  turned  up  at  right 
angles  and  soldered  to  a  ring  made  of 
-j-Vin.  brass  that  acts  as  a  bearing 
around  the  pipe. 

The  upper  Ijrace  E  is  made  of  iV-in- 
brass,  the  same  width  as  the  base  piece 
and  about  48  in.  in  length.  Each  end 
is  turned  into  a  scroll  and  then  riveted 
or  soldered  to  the  base  D  and  to  the  up- 
per brass  ring.  The  space  between  the 
base  D,  the  jirace  E,  and  the  pipe  C  is 
filled  with  any  style  of  scroll  or  other 
brace   that   may   suit  the  taste  of  the 


A  Bracket  Forming  a  Pendant  and  Swinging  Arm  to 
Change  the  Location  oi  the  Electric  Light 

maker,  but  the  base  D  must  be  at  right 
angles  to  the  pipe  C  before  the  scroll  is 
fastened  in  place. 

A  cap,  F,  is  screwed  to  the  lower  end 
of  the  pipe,  to  keep  the  bracket  in 
place.     Ordinary  flexible  light  cord  is 


285 


used  to  connect  to  the  light  which  is 
swung  to  the  scroll  end  of  the  base. — 
Contributed  by  F.  L.  Matter,  Portland, 
Oregon. 


the   metal  on   the   inside,   or  the   wire 
may  be  placed  inside  of    the  shell  and 


Match  Safe  to  Deliver  One  Match 
at  a  Time 

A  match  safe  that  will  deliver  only 
one  match  at  a  time  is  constructed 
of  two  parts,  the  box  or  holder  and  the 
base,  with  slider.  The  box  is  diamond- 
shaped  and  of  the  size  shown  by  the 
dimensions.  The  base,  with  slider, 
consists  of  two  pieces,  the  baseboard 
and  a  standard  which  runs  through  the 
box  diagonally  on  the  longest  dimen- 
sion in  a  vertical  position.  A  thumb- 
tack is  inserted  in  the  standard  near 
the  top  to  prevent  the  box  from  being 
lifted  entirely  from  the  base. 

The  matches  are  tilled  into  the  box 


e 


The  Box  Delivers  Only  One  Match  When  It  is 
Raised  and  Lowered  on  the  Standard 

on  both  sides  of  the  standard.  When 
a  match  is  wanted,  lift  the  box  up  and 
let  it  down  again,  and  one  match  will  be 
caught  in  the  notch  and  raised  out  of 
the  box.  To  prevent  the  box  from  tip- 
ping sideways  when  it  is  raised  up, 
small  pieces  can  be  glued  to  the  box 
ends  on  the  inside  and  on  both  sides 
of  the  standard. — Contributed  by  A. 
S.  Barrows,  New  Britain,  Conn. 


Cartridge    Shells    Used    for    Electrical 
Contacts 

In  making  small  switchboards,  rheo- 
stats, and  other  electrical  devices,  I 
found  a  good  use  for  old  center-fire 
cartridge  shells  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  A  hole  a  little  smaller  than 
the  diameter  of  the  shell  is  made  in 
the  board  and  the  shell  is  forced  in. 
The  proper  wires  are  then    soldered  to 


The  Heads  of  the  Cartridge  Shells  Make  Good 
Contacts  for  a  Switch  Lever 

held  in  contact  by  driving  a  wood  plug 
in  as  indicated. — Contributed  by  W. 
O.  Nettleton,  Washington,  D.  C. 


A  Dowel-Turning  Tool 

The  owner  of  a  wood  or  metal  lathe 
can  easily  construct  a  tool  that  will 
turn  dowels  of  any  size  quickly.  This 
tool,  as  described  by  a  correspondent 
of  Work,  London,  consists  of  a  block 
of  wood,  shaped  as  shown  at  A,  and  a 
plane  bit,  B,  attached  with  a  wood 
screw.  The  hole  in  the  collet  C  must 
be  of  such  size  that  it  will  admit  the 
rough  stock  freely  but  also  prevent  it 
from  wabbling  as  the  stick  turns.    The 


The  Tool  is  Very  Similar  to  a  Plane  and  is  Usedl 
with  a  Lathe  for  Turning  Dowels 

stock  is  chucked  in  the  ordinary 
manner  and  the  tool  is  run  on  the 
outer  end. 


286 


To  Tie  a  Hammock 

A  method  not  generally  known  to 
quickly  and  securely  hitch  up  a  ham- 
mock between  two  trees,  in  camp  or 
elsewhere,  is  shown  in  the 
sketch.  Each  end  rope  is 
given  one  or  more  turns 
around  a  tree  trunk 
and  then  tucked  un- 
der, as  shown.  The 
pull  on  the  rope  will  draw 
it  tightly  against  the  rough 
bark  on  the  tree.  The 
harder  the  pull,  the  tighter 
the  rope  binds  against  the  tree  trunk. 
In  this  manner  a  hammock  can  be  put 
up  in  a  few  moments  and  it  is  as  read- 
ily taken  down. — Contributed  by 
Bert    Morehouse,    Des    Moines,    Iowa. 


An  Inexpensive  File 

Envelopes  make  a  very  inexpensive 
as  well  as  a  neat  file  for  papers  and 
letters  if  they  are  arranged  and  fas- 
tened together  so  that  they  can  be  kept 
in  one  packet.  In  making  such  a  file 
procure  as  many  envelopes  as  there 
will  be  headings  in  the  file,  also  a  num- 
ber of  strips  of  gummed  tape,  about 
11/2  in.  long.  There  must  be  twice  as 
many  of  these  strips  as  there  are 
envelopes. 

Bind  the  backs  of  two  envelopes,  A 
and  B,  together  leaving  a  space  of  Vs 
in.    between    the    envelopes.      Bind    a 


The  File  is  Built  Up  of  Envelopes  Joined  Together  with 
Small  Strips  of  Tape 

third  envelope,  C,  to  B,  and  so  on. 
The  strips  of  tape  from  A  to  B  and 
from  B  to  C  are  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  envelope  B.     Continue  binding  un- 


til the  required  number  of  envelopes 
have  been  joined  together.  Assign  a 
heading  to  each  of  the  envelopes,  and 
the  file  is  ready  for  use.  When  com- 
pleted it  should  appear  as  shown  in  D. 
— Contributed  by  Alfred  Rice,  Syra- 
cuse. N.  Y. 


Window-Shade  Guides 

The  annoyance  of  a  shade  that  will 
not  run  true  on  the  roller  and  flops  in 
the  wind  coming  through  an  open  win- 
dow can  be  overcome  by  using  guide 
wires  as  follows: 

The  stick  in  the  hem  on  the  lower 
edge  of  the  shade  is  supplied  with  a 
screweye,  A,  at  each  end.  A  wire  is 
run  through  the  screweye  and  fastened 
in    a    vertical    position    on    the   casing 


TV 


\ iijiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiii"iiiKMMiiiiiiiiiiiii|iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin;iiiiii/m;'»iwiifi/p//; 


Two  Parallel  Guide  Wires  Hold  the  Stick  of  the  Shade 
in  Us  Proper  Place 

with  screweyes  as  shown  by  B,  B.  A 
second  wire  is  similarly  attached  on 
the  other  side  of  the  shade,  taking  care 
to  have  both  wires  parallel  and  true 
with  the  ends  of  the  roller. — Contrib- 
uted by  George  Lue,  San  Francisco, 
California. 


Watering  Plants  at  the  Roots 

An  effective  way  to  water  rose 
bushes,  shrubs  or  plants  is  to  place  an 
old  cowhorn  in  the  earth  so  that  the 
small  end  will  be  near  the  roots  of  the 
plant  and  the  large  end  level  with  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  fill  the  horn 
with  water.  The  small  end  of  the  horn 
should  be  cut  ofif  at  such  a  point  that 
the  hole  will  be  about  the  size  of  a  lead 
pencil. — Contributed  by  Chas.  L.  Rich- 
ards, Philadelphia,  Pa. 


387 


How  to  Clean  Jewelry 

To  cleanse  articles  of  silver,  gold, 
bronze  and  brass  use  a  saturated  solu- 
tion of  cyanide  of  potassium.  To  clean 
small  articles,  dip  each  one  into  the 
solution  and  rinse  immediately  in  hot 
water;  then  dry  and  polish  with  a  linen 
cloth.  Larger  articles  are  cleaned  by 
rubbing  the  surface  with  a  small  tuft 
of  cotton  saturated  in  the  solution.  As 
cyanide  of  potassium  is  a  deadly 
poison,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  have 
it  touch  any  sore  spot  on  the  flesh. — 
Contributed  by  G.  A.  Koerbis,  U.  S.  S. 
"Vermont." 

Runner  for  a  Go-Cart 

As  the  wheels  of  a  go-cart  do  not 
push  through  the  snow  very  easily  and 
the  cart,  therefore,  does  not  run  in  a 
straight  direction,  and  as  I  did  not  care 
to  purchase  a  sled,  I  instead  fitted  the 


tive,  but   low  and   high   numbers   dis- 
tributed  with   the   object   in   view   of 


The  Runners  are  Easily  Applied  to  the  \Vheels  of  a 
Go-Cart  and  Hold  Them  Solidly 

go-cart  wheels  with  runners  as  shown 
in  the  sketch.  I  purchased  a  piece  of 
machine  steel  of  a  diameter  to  fit  the 
grooves  in  the  wheels  after  the  rubber, 
tires  were  removed.  This  I  cut  and 
bent  to  the  shape  shown  at  A,  making 
two  runners,  and  applied  one  to  each 
pair  of  wheels,  front  and  rear,  as  shown 
at  B.  The  runners  kept  the  wheels  im- 
movable and  caused  the  cart  to  glide 
over  the  snow  as  a  sleigh.  This  run- 
ner will  not  interfere  with  the  folding 
of  a  collapsible  cart. — Contributed  by 
Roy  B.  Hanaford,  Detroit,  Mich. 


A  Ring-Throwing  Game 

The  board  for  this  game  is  made  of 
a  cover  from  an  old  candy  or  lard  pail, 
washed  and  painted  black.  When  the 
paint  is  dry,  place  50  pegs  on  the  sur- 
face as  shown  and  number  them  with 
white  paint  or  by  fastening  numbers 
cut  from  paper  below  them.  The 
numbering  of  the  pegs  is  not  consecu- 


The  Candy-Pail  Cover  with  Pegs  Numbered  and  a 
Set  of  Rings  for  Each  Player 

making   it   difificult    to   secure   a   high 
score. 

Each  player  has  a  set  of  five  rings, 
which  are  nothing  else  but  rubber 
fruit-jar  rings.  These  can  be  purchased 
at  a  grocery  store.  The  board  is  hung 
on  a  wall  or  post,  and  the  player  stands 
about  5  or  6  ft.  away  and  throws  the 
rings,  one  at  a  time,  trying  to  ring  pegs 
having  the  highest  numbers.  The  sum 
of  the  numbers  corresponding  to  the 
pegs  ringed  counts  toward  the  final 
score.  Turns  are  taken  by  each  player, 
and  each  time  five  rings  are  thrown. 
The  score  can  be  set  at  any  amount, 
500  being  about  right. — Contributed  by 
Francis  P.  Hobart,  Willoughby,  O. 


A  Pen  and  Brush  Holder 

A  sheet  of  corrugated  paper  is  a 
handy  thing  to  have  on  the  writing 
desk,  for  the  purpose  of  placing  wet 
pens  or  brushes  in  its  grooves.  The 
paper  absorbs  the  liquid,  and  the  cor- 
rugations hold  the  pens  or  brushes  in 
handy  positions.    A  sheet  of  this  paper 


The  Depressions  in  the  Paper  Hold  the  Pens  or 
Brushes  and  Also  Absorb  the  Excess  Fluid 

is  almost  as  useful  a  desk  accessory  as 
a  blotter. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kanfe,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


288 


Supporter  for  a  Double  Clothesline 

A  double  clothesline  of  any  length 
should  have  a  supporter  in  the  center 
to  keep  the  line  from  sagging  when 
the  clothes  are 
hung  on  the  lower 
one.  The  sup- 
porter shown  in 
the  sketch  saves 
the  wear  from  the 
strain  on  the  lines. 
It  also  keeps  the 
clothes  in  a  higher 
current  of  air  so 
that  they  dry 
quicker. 

The  supporter  is  made  of  two  nickel- 
plated  rings  measuring  2  in.  in  di- 
ameter. They  are  bound  together  as 
shown.  The  rings  being  nickelplated, 
the  supporter  will  not  rust  the  clothes. 
The  clothes  should  be  arranged  on 
the  lower  line  so  that  the  supporter 
will  rest  in  the  center. — Contributed 
by  Katharine  D.  Morse,  Syracuse,  New 
York. 

Pincushion  for  the  Arm 

Those  tliat  have  trouble  in  keeping 
the  pincushion  within  reach  while  sew- 
ing, can  remedy  the  trouble  by  making 
one  to  fit  the  wrist  or  arm.  An  ordi- 
nary pincushion  is  attached  to  a  piece 
of  cardboard  and  an  elastic  sewed  to 
the  cardboard  edges  so  that  it  will  fit 
on  the  arm.  The  pincushion  is  not  in 
the  way  and  is  readily  worn  so  that  the 
pins  are  easier  to  reach  than  if  pinned 
to  the  dress. — Contributed  by  Frank 
Sterrett,  Portland,  O. 


Electric    Test  for    Fixtures 

A  very  useful  device  for  testing  out 
fixtures  before  they  are  connected  up 


zxcm 


One  Line  of  the  Two  Connecting  ^Vi^es  is  Broken  and 
the  Ends  Used  as  Terminals  on  the  Fixture 

can  be  easily  made  as  follows:  Two 
wires  are  run  from  a  plug,  A,  one  to 
a  socket,  B,  and  the  other  to  terminate 


at  C.     The  line  from  the  other  side  of 
the  socket   B  terminates  at  D. 

In  testing  a  fixture,  the  plug  A  is 
turned  into  a  socket  of  some  source 
of  current,  and  a  lamp  is  turned  into 
the  socket  B.  The  terminal  C  is  held 
to  the  metal  covering  of  the  fi.xture, 
while  the  end  D  is  held  to  one  of  the 
wires.  If  there  is  a  leak  of  current, 
the  lamp  at  B  and  those  of  the  fi.xture 
will  light  up. — Contributed  by  Fred 
Schumacher,   Brooklyn,   N.   Y. 


Opening  for  Steam  in  a  Utensil  Cover 

When  cooking  certain  foods  the  or- 
dinary cover  on  a  vessel  confines  too 
much  steam,  while  if  no  cover  at  all  is 
used,  too  much  will  escape,  hence  a 
cover  which  is  provided  with  a  vent  is 
very  desirable.  The  cover  attachment 
shown  in  the  illustration  is  evidently 
well  adapted  for  service  on  such  oc- 
casions and  can  be  easily  made  as 
follows : 


The  Small  Triangular  Surface  Provided  with  Holes  for 
Releasing  Surplus  Steam  is  Covered  with  a  Cap 

Lay  out  a  small  triangle  on  some 
level  part  of  the  cover  and  punch  sev- 
eral holes  inside  of  the  lines.  Cut  a 
cap.  A,  from  a  piece  of  tin  to  cover  the 
holes.  A  small  projection  on  the  edge 
of  the  cap  serves  to  swing  it  one  way 
or  the  other,  as  needed,  and  it  is  fas- 
tened loosely  to  the  cover  with  a  soft- 
copper  rivet,  so  that  it  may  be  easily 
opened. 


Drying  Seeds 

A  good  way  to  dry  tomato,  canta- 
loupe, and  other  seeds  is  to  put  them 
on  blotters.  They  will  quickly  dry  in 
this  manner  and  will  not  become 
moldy,  as  the  blotter  soaks  up  the 
moisture. — Contributed  by  Theodore 
Becker,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 


389 


Cleaning  Clothes  by  Boiling  Them 

When  cleaning  clothes  by  boiling 
them  in  a  boiler  over  a  fire,  fit  in  a 
false  bottom  to  keep  the  clothes  from 
touching  the  bottom.  The  false  bot- 
tom should  be  perforated  with  holes, 
%-in.  in  diameter  and  1  in.  apart,  over 
the  entire  piece.  Fasten  four  legs,  each 
about  2  in.  long,  to  the  under  side  to 
make  a  space  between  the  bottoms.  In 
washing,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to 
place  the  clothes  in  the  boiler  and  boil 
them.  The  dirt  will  come  loose  and 
settle  through  the  holes  and  on  the 
boiler  bottom. 


An  Emergency  Tack  Puller 

One  day  I  had  to  pull  some  tacks 
but  had  no  tack  puller  at  hand.  An 
idea  came  to  me  to  use  the  kitchen 


The  Point  of  a  Spoon  will  Easily  Pull  a  Tack 
from  Soft  Wood 


spoon,  and  I  found  that  it  worked 
even  better  than  a  regular  tack  puller. 
The  ordinary  kitchen  spoon  usually 
has  an  edge  sharp  enough  to  get  under 
any  tack. — Contributed  by  H.  D. 
Harkins,   St.    Louis,   Mo. 


A  Puzzle  with  Figures 

This  puzzle  is  to  arrange  all  the 
figures  or  digits,  from  1  to  9  inclu- 
sively, in  two  rows,  each  containing 
all  the  digits,  so  that  the  sum  in  addi- 
tion as  well  as  the  remainder  in  sub- 
traction will  have  nine  figures,  in 
whi^h  all  the  digits  are  represented. 
There  are  several  solutions  to  the  puz- 
zle, and  the  following  is  one  of  them: 

371294568 

21G397845 
The  sum  of  the  foregoing  numbers 
and  the  remainder,  when  the  lower  row 
is  subtracted  from  the  upper,  will  both 
have  nine  figures  and  include  all  the 
digits  from  1  to  9. — Contributed  by 
Walter  Bennett,  Detroit,  Mich. 


To  Fasten  Loose  Table  Legs 

When  legs  of  an  ordinary  table  be; 
corne  loose  and  unsteady  they  may  be 
easily  repaired  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 


A  Piece  of  Wire  Bent  around   the  Leg  of  a  Table  will 
Make  It  Rigid 

Nails  do  not  hold  well  in  such  places 
and  glue  will  not  stand  much  washing. 
The  method  of  making  the  repair  is 
to  drill  i/s-in.  holes  through  the  rails 
on  each  side  of  the  leg  and  insert  pieces 
of  galvanized  wire  of  a  size  to  fit  the 
holes.  After  the  wire  is  inserted,  the 
ends  are  bent  over.  The  illustration 
clearly  shows  the  repair. — Contributed 
by  Edwin  C.  Wright,  Newport,  Ky. 


Washbasin  Holder 

A    piece    of    wire    formed    into    the 
shape   shown   in   the   sketch   makes   a 

handy      hook      to  , ^ 

hold  a   washbasin         y''  '^._ 

when  it  is  not  in  /  ,-----..  \ 
use.  This  keeps 
it  out  of  the  way 
and  out  of  the 
dirty  water  which 
might  be  thrown 
into  the  kitchen 
sink.  —  Contribu- 
ted by  F.  C.  Althen,  Anamosa,  Iowa. 


A  Cleaner  for  Canvas  Shoes 

One  of  the  most  economical  cleansers 
for  canvas  shoes  is  oxide  of  zinc.  Mix 
a  small  quantity  of  the  powder  with 
water,  to  the  consistency  of  thin  paste, 
and  apply  it  to  the  canvas  with  an  old 
toothbrush,  rubbing  it  in  thoroughly. 
Then  set  the  shoes  aside  to  dry  be- 
fore wearing  them. — Contributed  by 
Katharine  D.  Morse,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


CA  good  substitute  currycomb  can  be 
made  of  corncobs  tied  together  tightly. 


390 


Ruling  Blank  Books 

A  special  ruling  for  a  blank  book 
can  be  drawn  by  using  a  thin  piece  of 
sheet  metal  or  cardboard,  cut  as  shown 


< 
< 

< 
< 

Fi&.l 


Fig. 2 


A  Template  Having  Slots  Cut  for  Drawing  Special 
Vertical  and  Horizontal  Lines  on  Pages 

in  Fig.  1,  for  a  template.  The  pencil 
is  drawn  along  one  edge  of  the  cut- 
out so  that  it  will  make  lines  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2. 

If  horizontal  lines  are  required,  cut 
notches  on  the  edge  for  the  location 
of  each  line  as  shown.  When  the  ver- 
tical lines  are  drawn,  these  notches  will 
mark  the  places  for  the  horizontal 
lines. 


How  to  Demagnetize  a  Watch 

Quite  often  the  attendants  or  a  visi- 
tor to  an  electric-light  plant  discovers 
after  a  few  days  that  his  watch  is  los- 
ing a  half  hour  or  more  a  day  by  hav- 
ing become  magnetized  by  the  dyna- 
mos. In  stations  where  the  old  types 
of  machines  are  still  in  use  there  is  a. 
great  deal  more  danger  from  what  is 
called  "stray"  magnetic  fields  than  in 
those  where  modern  machines  are  in- 
stalled. 

The  jeweler  demagnetizes  a  watch 
in  the  following  way  :  He  has  a  piece  of 
soft  iron  with  an  opening  cut  in  its 
center  of  such  shape  and  size  as  to  re- 
ceive the  watch,  and  with  a  tine  wire 
wound  about  it.  After  the  watch  has 
been  placed  in  position,  an  alternating 
current,  that  is,  one  whose  direction  is 
changing  at  regular  intervals,  is  sent 
through  the  winding,  and  thus  a  mag- 
netic    field     is     produced     that     also 


changes  in  direction  as  the  current  re- 
verses. The  current  is  gradually  re- 
duced in  value  and  the  magnetism  orig- 
inally possessed  by  the  watch  is  re- 
moved. When  an  alternating  current 
is  not  available,  a  direct  current  may 
be  used,  its  direction  being  rapidly  re- 
versed by  what  is  known  as  a  "polar- 
ity changer." 

Anyone  can  demagnetize  his  own 
watch,  however,  with  very  little 
trouble  and  no  expense  by  a  much  sim- 
])ler  method.  Procure  a  piece  of  heavy 
linen  thread  about  3  ft.  long,  attach 
one  end  of  it  to  the  ring  of  the  watch, 
hold  the  other  end  and  turn  the  watch 
around  until  the  thread  is  twisted  at 
least  one  hundred  times.  Now  allow 
the  thread  to  unwind,  and  as  the  watch 
revolves,  pass  it  back  and  forth  near 
a  powerful  electromagnet.  The  field 
magnet  of  a  good-sized  generator  or 
motor  will  answer.  The  machine 
should  be  in  operation,  or  at  least  there 
should  be  a  current  in  the  windings 
about  the  fields,  when  you  attempt  to 
demagnetize  the  watch.  \\'hile  the 
thread  is  unwinding,  and  the  watch 
moved  in  the  magnetic  field,  gradually 
withdraw  from  the  magnet  so  that 
when  the  watch  ceases  to  revolve,  it  is 
just  outside  of  the  field. 

Always  be  sure  to  keep  the  watch 
revolving  while  it  is  in  the  magnetic 
field,  otherwise  the  results  will  be  very 
unsatisfactory,  and  more  harm  than 
good  may  result. 


A  Pencil  Holder 

Procure  a  piece  of  paper,  7  in.  long 
and  4  iri.  wide,  and  roll  it  one  time 
around  a  lead  pencil,  then  coat  the 
remaining  surface  of  the  paper  with 
glue.  Roll  this  around  the  pencil  and 
a   tube   is   formed,  which   will   hold   a 


A  Stub  of  a  Pencil  can  be  Easily  Held  in  the 
Tube  for  Writing 

pencil  or  even  pieces  of  pencil  down 
to  i/o  in.  in  length. — Contributed  by 
W.  D.  Brooks,  Paterson,  N.  J. 


291 


A    Poultry-Food    Chopper 

The  illustration  shows  a  handy  de- 
vice for  cutting  roots  for  food,  and  for 
chopping  and  mixing  stale  bread,  po- 
tatoes, peelings,  refuse  fruit,  etc.,  for 
poultry.  Any  blacksmith  can  make 
the  chopper  at  little  cost.  For  the 
cutting  blades  use  two  pieces  of  steel 
a  little  heavier  than  oil-barrel  hoops, 
each  iy2  in.  wide  and  8  in.  long.  Pro- 
cure a  1/2-10-  iron  rod,  about  3  ft.  long, 
bend  one  end  in  the  shape  of  a  spade 


The  Chopper  Consists  of  a  Rod  Handle  to  "Which 
Blades  are  Attached  by  Riveting  or  Welding 

handle  and  split  the  other  end  for  a 
distance  of  about  S^/^  in. 

Sharpen  one  edge  of  each  blade  and 
curve  the  metal  slightly.  Lay  the  two 
blades  together  with  the  convex  sides 
touching  in  the  center  and  insert  them 
in  the  slit  in  the  handle  end.  They  are 
riveted  or  welded  in  place.  Heat  and 
bend  the  blades  at  right  angles. 

Many  of  the  materials  mentioned 
for  poultry  foods  may  be  chopped  in 
an  ordinary  pail  having  a  strong  bot- 
tom, but  it  is  best  to  make  a  box, 
about  1%  ft.  square  and  with  a  plank 
bottom,   for   use   with    the   chopper. 


A  Small  Spring  Hinge 

Box  covers  or  small  doors  that  are 
seldom  used  can  be  supplied  with  a 
small  spring  hinge  as  shown  in  the 
illustration.  The  hinge  is  made  of  a 
piece  of  spring  wire  which  is  formed 
similar  to  a  staple  with  a  coil  or  com- 
plete   turn   given    to    the    wire    in    the 


The  Shape  of  the  Hinge,  and  the  Manner  of  Attaching 
It  to  a  Cover  or  Door 

center.  It  is  attached  l)y  driving  the 
points,  one  into  the  door  and  the  other 
into  the  casing. 


Shoestring  End 

When  the  tips  slip  from  shoelaces, 
new  ones  may  be  readily  made  of  fine 
wire.  The  wire  is  run  through  the  end 
of  the  lace.  Fig.   1,  and  the  two  ends 


F16.2 


The  Wire  Prevents  the  Lace  from  Raveling  and 
Makes  a  Tip  for  Easily  Entering  the  Eyelets 

are  twisted  tightly  together  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2.  This  covers  the  end  of  the 
lace  and  makes  a  tip  that  is  easily 
passed  through  the  eyelets. 


Threads  on  Wood   Shafts 

In  model  making  it  is  quite  neces- 
sary at  times  to  have  threads  on  a 
wood  shaft.    These  can  be  made  quite 


The  Wire  Forms  a  Thread  That  in  Many   Instances 
is  Quite  Serviceable  for  Model  Making 

satisfactorily  by  coiling  a  wire  around 
the  shaft  where  the  threads  are  wanted, 
and   driving  the   ends   into  the   wood. 


A  Glass  Breaker 

After  cutting  glass,  and  especially 
where  a  small  strip  is  to  be  removed, 
the  part  must  be  broken  away  in  small 


The  Nut  is  Set  to  the  Thickness  of  the  Glass 
and  Used  to  Break  Pieces  Away 

pieces.  The  accompanying  sketch 
shows  a  very  useful  tool  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  tool  is  made  of  a  piece  of 
metal  having  a  bolt  fastened  to  it  at 
one  end  whose  nut  can  be  adjusted 
to  the  thickness  of  the  glass. 


COld  discarded  blueprints  can  be  made 
white  and  used  for  sketching  by  dip- 
ping them  in  a  solution  of  soda  and 
water,  in  the  proportions  of  4  oz.  of 
soda  to  each  gallon  of  water. 


393 


Wood  Postal  Cards 


The  card  consists  of  three  pieces, 
or  three-ply,  veneer.  The  grain  of  the 
outside  veneer  runs  leng-thwise,  while 
that  of  the  inside  piece  runs  crosswise. 
This  makes  the  card  straight  and  keeps 
it  from  breaking.  For  the  inner  sec- 
tion, walnut,  which  may  be  had  as  thin 
as  1/G4  in.,  or  any  thin  straight- 
grained  veneer  may  be  used.  Two 
pieces  of  veneer,  about  3%  in.  wide 
and  6  in.  long;  one  piece,  6  in.  wide 
and  3%  in.  long, — the  length  being 
with  the  grain  of  the  wood — and  two 
blocks  of  wood,  known  as  cauls,  of  the 
same  size  or  a  little  larger,  and  about 
■%  in.  thick,  are  required. 

The  veneer  is  laid  flat  on  a  board 
and  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  or  fine  saw 
along  the  edge  of  a  ruler.  The  three 
pieces  are  glued  together  in  the  follow- 
ing manner.  Use  ordinary  hot  glue, 
not  too  thin,  but  thin  enough  to  run 
freely  from  the  brush.  The  glue  is  ap- 
plied evenly  on  both  sides  of  the  inner 
piece  only,  and  this  is  then  stood  on 
edge  until  the  glue  chills.  Then  the 
cauls  are  heated.  This  is  best  done  on 
a  stove,  or  on  stove  lids  over  a  gas 
fire.  While  the  blocks  are  being 
heated,  put  one  veneer  on  either  side 
of  the  middle  piece,  and  a  piece  of  thin 
paper  on  each  side  to  keep  the  glue 
from  the  cauls.  A  hand  screw  or  vise 
should  be  opened  to  almost  the  dis- 
tance required.  One  of  the  cauls  is 
now  laid  flat,  the  veneers  upon  it  and 
the  other  caul  on  top.  This  should  be 
done  quickly.  Then  clamp  the  whole 
firmly  together.  While  the  full  pres- 
sure is  only  needed  for  about  two 
hours,  the  pieces  should  be  allowed  to 
dry  between  the  cauls  for,  say,  a  day 
or  two,  so  that  they  will  keep  straight. 
The  size  of  the  finished  card  is  3%  in. 
by  5I/2  i"-  It  is  cut  and  planed  to  size 
while  lying  flat  on  a  board,  the  plane 
being  pushed  along  on  its  side  on  the 
bench  top.  To  dress  or  clean,  clamp 
one  side  to  the  bench.  \\"hile  a  scraper 
blade  may  be  used  to  advantage,  it  is 
not  essential,  as  a  block  of  wood  and 
sandpaper  will  do.  The  thinner  it  is 
dressed  the  better.     The  sharp  edges 


should  be  removed  with  sandpaper. 
The  writing  on  a  wood  card  is  not 
done  in  the  ordinary  manner,  as  the 
ink  would  run.  The  surface  must  be 
prepared,  which  also  gives  a  finish  to 
the  wood.  Melt  some  wax  or  paraffin 
in  a  suitable  vessel  and  cover  the  sur- 
face of  the  wood,  using  a  brush  or  rag. 
The  lines  for  the  address  on  one  side 
are  then  drawn,  and  the  writing  is 
done  with  a  hard  lead  pencil.  When 
through  writing  on  one  side,  cover  it 
with  some  strong  aniline  stain. 
(Aniline,  dissolved  in  hot  water,  com- 
monly known  as  water  stain  and  used 
especially  to  stain  mahogany,  is  the 
right  kind.)  Do  not  remove  the  wax 
that  was  raised  by  the  pencil  point. 
Brush  the  stain  over  until  the  whole 
side  is  covered.  When  dry,  repeat  on 
the  other  side.  In  about  an  hour  the 
wax  may  be  scraped  off  with  a  dull 
scraper  or  some  other  dull  instrument. 
After  every  particle  of  wax  has  been 
removed,  the  card  is  given  a  good  rub- 
bing with  a  clean,  soft  rag.  It  is  well 
to  protect  the  hands  as  well  as  the 
table  during  the  process. — Contributed 
by  Chas.   Schapmeier,  Baltimore,   Md. 


Fastening    Screws   in   Tile   and    Brick 
Walls 

A  simple  way  to  fasten  screws  in 
tile  or  brick  walls  is  to  drill  holes,  not 
too  large,  for  the  screws,  then  tear  up 
some  paper,  wet  it  and  make  a  pulp. 
Pack  this  pulp  tightly  in  the  hole  and 
turn  in  the  screws.  The  screws  will 
stand  a  great  deal  of  strain. — Contrib- 
uted by  John  Thomas,  Brantford,  Ont. 


Shoe  Pull  Made  of  an  Eyelet 

The  pulling-on  strap  at  the  back  of 
a  shoe  often  comes  loose,  or  pulls  out, 
and  even  if  it  does  not,  the  trousers 
will  sometimes  catch  on  it  if  the  strap 
is  not  tucked  inside  of  the  shoe.  A 
very  simple  way  to  overcome  these 
troubles  is  to  remove  the  straps  and 
substitute  eyelets.  A  buttonhook  will 
then  serve  admirably  in  pulling  the 
shoe  onto  the  foot. 


393 


Holder  for  a  Set  of  Sadirons 

A  very  attractive  holder  for  a  set  of 
sadirons  and  their  handle  can  be  made 
as  shown  in  the  illustration,  although 
the  design  may  be  changed  if  desired. 
The  holder  consists  of  a  shield-shaped 
back,  which  is  fastened  to  the  wall  in 
a  convenient  place  and  has  a  shelf  with 
openings  for  the  irons  attached  to  it. 
The  shelf  is  made  in  two  pieces,  the 
bottom  part  being  covered  with  a 
heavy  piece  of  tin  while  the  upper  is 
cut  out  to  receive  the  irons. 

The  irons  are  placed  on  the  upper 
piece  in  such  positions  that  they  will 
be  attractively  displayed  and  evenly 
located,  and  then  a  lead-pencil  mark  is 
drawn  around  their  base.  Openings 
are  cut  in  the  wood  on  these  marks 
and  the  board  fastened  on  top  of  the 
tin-covered   shelf.     An  ordinary  brass 


An  Ornamented  Bracket  Shelf   for  Holding  a  Complete 
Set  of  Sadirons  and  Their  Handle 

bracket  is  used  in  the  center  beneath 
the  shelf,  to  keep  it  from  sagging. 

The  shield  is  fastened  to  the  wall 
with  two  screws,  over  which  two 
brushed-brass,  diamond-shaped  pieces 
are  fastened  with  large  brass  tacks,  to 
cover  the  screw  heads.  The  corners 
of  the  shield  may  be  ornamented  with 
brushed-brass  designs,  and  the  wood 
finished  as  desired.  The  irons  can  be 
set  in  the  holder  while  hot  without 
fear  of  burning  any  part,  and  they  will 
present  a  very  neat  appearance. — Con- 
tributed by  G.  E.  Martin,  Hastings, 
Nebraska. 


A  Garden  Roller 

A  garden  roller  for  digging  the  earth 
and  crushing  clods  is  easily  made  of  the 
following  material:  One  round  piece 
of  wood,  10  in.  in  diameter  and  18  in. 
long;  two  pieces  of  wood,  each  5G  in. 


long,  21/2  in.  wide  and  li/4  i"-  thick; 
one  piece,  81  in.  long,  2  in.  wide  and 
1   in.   thick ;   two   i/^-in.   lag   screws,   6 


A   Roller   for  Crushing    Clods    and    Digging   the   Earth 
in  Garden    Making 

in.    long,    and    a    quantity    of    8-penny 
nails. 

The  short  piece  of  wood  is  fitted  be- 
tween the  two  long  pieces  with  tenon- 
and-mortise  joints  to  serve  as  a  handle 
at  one  end  and  the  roller  is  fastened  be- 
tween the  side  pieces  at  the  opposite 
end  to  revolve  on  the  lag  screws.  The 
nails  are  driven  into  the  roller  so  that 
they  project  about  1  in. 


A  Substitute  for  Glaziers'  Points 

Ordinary  small  staples  make  good 
substitutes  for  glaziers'  tacks.  The 
points  of  the  staples  should  be  drawn 
apart  slightly,  as  shown  at  A,  to  give 
them  a  greater  holding  area  and  at  the 
same  time  make  them  easier  to  drive. 
These  points  seem  to  hold  the  glass 
better  than  the  regular  glaziers'  points. 


Double-Pointed     Tacks,    or    Staples,    with    the    Points 
Spread,  Used  as  Substitutes  for  Glaziers'  Points 

consequently  the  putty  will  not  crack 
and  loosen,  and  renewing  is  avoided. 
— Contributed  by  Edward  Sieja, 
Chicago. 


394 


Water-Heating  Coil  in  a  Furnace  Pipe 

The  accompanying  sketch  shows  a 
plan  I  adopted  for  conserving  the 
waste  heat  from  my  furnace.     I  found 

that    I    was   able 

to  put  a  coil  into 
the  smoke  pipe, 
which  was  about 
8  in.  in  diame- 
ter, and  thus  heat 
water  for  domes- 
tic purposes.  It 
will  be  seen  that 
the  coil  is  spiral 
in  shape  rather 
than  cylindrical, 
as  the  latter 
would  leave  a 
free  passage  up 
the  center  and  therefore  would  not 
bring  enough  gases  into  contact  with 
the  coil. 

In  addition  to  this  coil  I  have  a  gas 
heater  near  the  tank  which  is  used 
only  in  case  the  demand  for  hot  water 
exceeds  the  capacity  of  the  coil,  which 
is  naturally  not  as  efficient  per  unit  of 
length  as  one  directly  within  the  fire- 
pot  would  be.  It  has  the  advantage 
of  not  absorbing  heat  which  should 
go  to  make  steam, 'but  only  that  which 
would  otherwise  be  wasted.  The 
heating  surface  of  the  coil  is  much 
greater  than  would  be  possible  within 
the  firepot,  which  in  a  measure  com- 
pensates for  its  lower  efficiency. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  E.  Morey,  Chicago. 


A  Homemade  Marking  Gauge 

A   %-in.  bushing  is  turned  into  the 
side  outlet  of  a  '^s-in.  tee.    The  bushing 

then     tapped 
receive   a   xiy- 
w  i  n  g    bolt, 
tight  -  fitting 
wood     plug    is 
driven    into    the 
throughway     o  f 
the   tee    and   the 
ends    ground   off 
flush       on       the 
emery  wheel.    A 
slot,  i^ff-in.  square,  is  then  cut  through 


the  wood  plug  just  under  the  bushing. 
Two  pieces  of  flat  steel,  each  1^4  in- 
wide  by  Vs  'II-  thick  and  1/8  ill-  longer 
than  the  tee,  are  fitted  in  the  slot  cut  in 
the  plug  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  The 
outer  end  of  each  piece  is  bent  at  right 
angles  and  sharpened.  After  the  points 
have  been  drawn  out  to  the  right  dis- 
tance, the  wing  bolt  is  turned  to  hold 
them  in  that  position. — Contributed  by 
C.  Molloy,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Protecting  Brush  Handles  from  Paint 

A  very  efficient  method  to  prevent 
paint  from  running  down  on  a  paint- 
brush handle  and  on  the  hand  is  to  cut 
a  hollow  rubber  ball  in  half.  Fig.  1, 
make  a  hole  in  the  center  to  fit  the 
brush  handle  and  attach  it  as  shown  in 


The  Shape  of  the  Ball  Forms  a  Cup  to  Catch  the 
Paint  from  the  Brush 

Fig.  2.  One  ball  will  fit  up  two 
brushes.  The  cup  shape  catches  the 
paint  and  prevents  it  from  getting  on 
the  handle. — Contributed  by  O.  H. 
Meyer,  Churdon,  Iowa. 


A  Tie-Pin  Holder 

Having  lost  several  tie  pins  by  theft 
or  by  their  falling  out  I  made  a  little 
device  to  securely  hold  the  pin  in  the 
tie.    This   device 

makes    it   almost  11  |     „|..     \ 

impossible  to 
pull  the  pin  out 
and  it  cannot  be 
lost  accidentally. 
The  device  is 
made  of  a  small 
safety    pin,    bent 

as  shown,  with  one  arm.  A,  longer  than 
the  other,  B.  The  arm  A  is  put  on  the 
pin  first  or  upward,  and  attached  as 
shown  at  C.  When  pulling  on  the  tie 
pin  the  arms  of  the  holder  tend  to 
draw  together  and  clamp  it  on  the  pin. 
— Contributed  by  Robert  C.  Knox, 
Colorado  Springs,  Colo. 


295 


Hulling  Walnuts 

When  gathering  my  winter  supply 
of  walnuts,  I  found  that  they  could  not 
be  hulled  readily  by  hand.  Not  know- 
ing of  any  machine  designed  for  the 
purpose,  I  tried  running  them  through 
a  corn  sheller  and  found  it  to  do  the 
work  nicely.  The  sheller  not  only 
hulled  them,  but  separated  the  nuts 
from  the  hulls,  the  nuts  being  carried 
out  through  the  cob  opening  and  the 
hulls  dropping  through  the  grain 
spout. — Contributed  by  Irl  R.  Hicks, 
Hallsville,   Mo. 


How   to   Make    a    Small    Vise    Screw 

Procure  an  ordinary  lag  screw,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1,  cut  off  the  pointed  end 
and    file    the    threads    into    the    shape 


A  Vise  Screw  Formed  of  an  Ordinary  Lag  Screw,  the 
Threads  being  Made  Square  and  a  Handle  Attached 


shown  in  Fig.  2.  A  hole  is  drilled 
through  the  head  and  a  handle  put  in, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  This  makes  a  good 
substitute  screw  when  the  original 
screw  for  a  small  vise  is  broken. — Con- 
tributed by  James  M.  Kane,  Doyles- 
town.  Pa. 


A    Medicine-Spoon    Holder 

When  a  dropper  is  not  at  hand  it  is 
difficult  to  drop  medicine  in  a  spoon 
while  holding  it,  and  the  shape  of  the 
spoon  will  not  permit  its  being  set 
down.    A  shoe  horn  used  as  shown  in 


A  Shoe  Horn 
is  the  Right  Shape 
to     Hold    the    Spoon 
Right  Side  Up  and  Level 


the  sketch  will  hold  the  spoon  right 
side  up  and  in  a  position  to  hold  the 
liquid. — Contributed  by  Maurice  Bau- 
dier.  New  Orleans,  La. 


Knife  Holder  on  a  Frying  Pan 

Instead  of  laying  a  knife  on  the 
stove  or  carrying  it  to  a  table  or  else- 
where while  frying  anything  in  a  pan. 


The  Shape  of  the  Clip  and  Manner  of  Attaching  It 
to  a  Frying  Pan 

make  a  clip  to  fit  the  edge  of  the  pan 
for  holding  the  knife  when  it  is  not  in 
use.  The  clip  is  easily  made  of  brass 
wire  and  when  attached  to  a  frying 
pan  it  will  save  many  steps. — Con- 
tributed by  John  C.  Harlacker,  Jr., 
Cumberland,  B.  C. 


A   Broom  for   Sweeping   Out   Corners 
in  Steps 

Sweeping  the  corners  of  steps  is  one 
of  the  greatest  difficulties  of  the  house- 
wife, or  others  who  have 
a  number  of  stairs  to 
sweep.  I  have  made 
this  task  easy  in  a  very 
simple  manner.  I  se- 
cured a  used  broom,  the 
longer  and  newer  the 
better,  and  cut  the 
straws  off  diagonally 
across  the  sweeping 
edge.  The  pointed  part 
will  easily  clean  out  the 
corners  in  steps  or  in  a  room. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  A.  Stamaman,  Berlin, 
Ontario. 


Removing  a  Cork  from  a  Bottle 

A  cork  that  has  been  pushed  into  a 
bottle  accidentally  or  otherwise  can 
be  easily  removed  in  the  following 
manner:  Tie  several  knots  in  one  end 
of  a  string  to  form  a  large  cluster  and 
drop  it  into  the  bottle,  holding  on  to 
the  other  end  of  the  string.  Turn  the 
bottle  over  so  that  the  cork  will  fall 
to  the  opening  in  the  neck,  then  pull  on 
the  string.  The  cluster  formed  by  the 
knots  at  the  end  of  the  string  will 
easily  draw  out  the  cork. — Contributed 
by  Frank  Hart,  Chicago,  111. 


296 


Filing  Flat  Surfaces 

Anyone  who  has  used  a  file  knows 
what  skill  is  required  to  produce  flat 
surfaces.     A  fixture  which  is  nothing 


The   File   can  be  Seen  in  the  Mirror  and  Its  Direction 
Controlled  for  Filing  Flat  Surfaces 

more  than  a  mirror  properly  placed 
enables  the  operator  to  sight  along  the 
file  and  see  at  all  times  just  how  the 
file  is  running. — Contributed  by  A.  F. 
Stearns,  Madison,  Wis. 


Tacking  a   Screen  on  a   Frame 

Screen  wire  is  very  difficult  material 
to  fasten  on  a  frame  so  that  it  becomes 
taut.  To  make 
it  taut  and  even 
drive  the  tacks 
as  follows :  First 
tack  the  screen 
on  one  side  of  the  frame,  taking 
care  to  leave  no  slack  between  the 
tacks,  which  should  be  about  1  ft. 
apart.  Fasten  the  opposite  side  by 
stretching  the  screen  with  one  hand 
^and  with  the  other  place  the  tack 
through  the  meshes  and  push  the 
point  as  far  as  possible  toward  the 
outer  edge  of  the  screen  frame  as 
shown  in  the  sketch.  Drive  the  tack 
so  that  it  will  enter  the  wood  straight, 
which  will  draw  the  screen  taut. 
After  having  thus  fastened  the  screen 
to  two  opposite  sides  of  the  frame 
with  tacks  1  ft.  apart,  other  tacks  are 
driven  in  midway  between  the  first 
ones,  stretching  the  screen  and  driving 
the  tacks  as  before  described,  until  a 
sufficient  number  of  tacks  are  driven 
into  either  side.  Then  both  ends  are  at- 
tached in  the  same  manner. — Contrib- 
uted by  Bertram  S.  Barnes,  Santa 
Barbara,  Cal. 


Safety  Tips  on  Chair  Rockers 

Some  rocking  chairs  are  so  con- 
structed that  when  the  person  occupy- 
ing it  gives  a  hard  tilt  backward,  the 
chair  tips  over  or  dangerously  near  it. 
A  rubber-tipped  screw  turned  into  the 
under  side  of  each  rocker,  near  the 
rear  end,  will  prevent  the  chair  from 
tipping  too  far  back. 


Portable  and  Folding  Bookcase 
or  Closet 

Two  packing  bo.xes  hinged  as  shown 
and  litted  with  casters  make  a  very 
convenient  portable  closet.  It  can  be 
folded  flat  against  a  wall  or  fitted  into 
a  corner.  If  furnished  with  shelves, 
it  can  be  used  as  a  bookcase  or  tool 
closet,  and  when  fully  opened,  it 
makes  a  handy  workbench. 

Two  projecting  strips  are  fitted  on 
the  inside  of  one  box  so  as  to  fit  tightly 
against  the  inner  top  and  bottom  sur- 
faces of  the  other  box,  to  increase  the 
rigidity  of  the  box  when  closed.  The 
addition  of  casters  makes  the  opening, 


The  Two  Boxes  are  Joined  on  One  Edge  with  Hinges 
and  with  a  Hasp,  if  Desired,  on  the  Other 

closing  and  pushing  about  very  easy. 
An  ornamental  hasp  or  lock  can  be 
fitted  if  desired. 


A  Curtain  Stop 

A  small  screweye  turned  into  the 
bottom  part  or  wood  strip  inclosed  in 
the  lower  end  of  the  curtain  will  pre- 
vent this  end  from  winding  over  the 
top  roller  when  the  curtain  is  quickly 
released  and  rolls  to  the  top. — Contrib- 
uted by  D.  O.  C.  Kersten,  Detroit, 
Michigan. 


397 


An  Alarm  for  a  Sleepwalker 

A  little  girl  in  our  family  would 
walk  in  her  sleep  and  it  caused  us  no 
little  worry  lest  she  might  leave  the 
house  without  our  knowing  it.  I 
therefore  rigged  up  an  alarm  device  to 
ring  a  bell  should  she  leave  the  room. 
The  device  consisted  of  a  bell  and 
battery  in  a  circuit,  and  a  switch 
which  was  attached  to  one  door  cas- 
ing. A  string  was  stretched  across 
the  doorway  and  attached  to  the 
switch  lever  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
pull  it  closed  when  the  string  was 
pushed  through  the  doorway  opening. 
— Contributed  by  J.  Woodburn,  To- 
ronto, Canada. 


desired.  When  grinding  cabbage,  cut 
the  heads  into  quarters  and  remove 
the  hearts.     Press  the  cabbage  on  the 


A  Kraut  and  Root  Grinder 

The  grinder  is  intended  mainly  for 
chopping  cabbage  when  making  sauer- 
kraut, but  it  is  also  of  much  service  in 
grinding  vegetables  and  roots  to  be 
cooked  for  poultry. 

The  base  A  is  made  of  a  plank,  at 
least  1  ft.  wide  and  4  ft.  long,  with  a 
91/4  by  dYo-'m.  hole  cut  in  the  center. 
The  grinding  part,  or  cylinder,  is 
made  of  wood,  3  in.  in  diameter  and  9 
in.  long,  with  8-penny  nails,  spaced  i\ 
in.  apart,  driven  partly  into  it  and  then 
cut  off  so  as  to  leave  i/4  in.  projecting. 
The  cylinder  is  turned  by  means  of  a 
crank  attached  to  the  end  of  the  shaft. 

A  hopper,  B,  is  constructed,  4  by  914 
in.  inside  measurement  at  the  bottom, 
and  as  large  as  necessary  at  the  top. 
A  space  is  provided  at  the  bottom  as 
shown  to  receive  the  concave  C,  which 
consists  of  a  1-in.  board,  3  to  4  in.  wide 
and  9  in.  long,  with  nails  driven  in  and 
cut  off  as  described  for  the  cylinder. 

The  hopper  is  securely  fastened  on 
top  of  the  baseboard  and  over  the 
cylinder.  The  concave  is  slipped  into 
place  and  held  with  wedges  or  by  driv- 
ing two  nails  in  just  far  enough  to 
fasten  it  temporarily.  The  concave 
can  be  adjusted  for  grinding  the  dif- 
ferent vegetable  products,  or  replaced 
at  any  time  with  a  new  one. 

The  ends  of  the  base  are  supported 
on  boxes,  or  legs  may  be  provided  if 


The  Grinder  will    Easily  Reduce  Cabbage  Heads 
to  Bits  Suitable  for  Sauerkraut 

cylinder  and  turn  the  crank.  Fine  bits 
of  cabbage,  suitable  for  sauerkraut, 
will  be  the  result. — Contributed  by  J. 
G.  Allshouse,  Avonmore,  Pa. 


Opening  for  Air  at  the  Top  of  a  Shade 

Procure  an  extra  long  shade  and  cut 
two  openings  in  the  end  to  be  used  at 
the  top.  The  openings  may  be  cut 
square  or  ornamental  as  desired,  leav- 
ing a  strip  at  each  side  and  one  in  the 
center.  These  strips  are  reinforced  by 
gluing-  on  some  of  the  same  material 
as  the  shade  or  pieces  of  tape. 

A   shade  made  in  this  manner  per- 


When  the  Shade  is  Pulled  Down  the  Openings  Coincide 
with  the  Opening  over  the  Upper  Sash 

mits  the  air  to  enter  the  room  un- 
hindered when  the  top  sash  is  lowered 
and  at  the  same  time  obstructs  the 
view  of  passers-by. — Contributed  by 
Warren  E.  Crane,  Cleveland,  O. 


298 


Hose  Attachment  for  Watering 
Window   Plants 

The  window  garden  of  the  house  has 
its  watering  difficulties  which  one 
owner  overcame  in  a  neat  and  handy 


The  Hose  is  Automatically  Run  on  a  Reel 
by  a  ^Veig^lt  beneath  the  Floor 

manner.  A  hose  on  a  weighted  reel 
was  attached  to  the  joists  in  the  base- 
ment under  the  floor  near  the  window 
flower  pots.  The  weight  on  the  reel 
kept  the  hose  wound  on  it  and  the  noz- 
zle end  which  projects  through  the 
floor  is  large  enough  to  hold  it  from 
passing  through  the  hole  bored  for  the 
hose.  A  long  stem  valve  was  provided 
with  the  wheel  attached  above  the 
floor  for  turning  the  water  on  and  ofif. 
When  the  plants  need  a  shower  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  draw  the  hose 
nozzle  up  and  turn  on  the  water.  The 
hole  for  the  hose  and  the  valve  wheel 
can  be  located  close  to  the  wall  under 
the  flower  tray  where  they  will  scarcely 
be  seen. 


Removing  Paint  from  Glass 

Paint  may  l)e  easily  cleaned  from 
glass  by  using  a  SO-per-cent  solution 
of  acetic  acid.  The  acid  should  be 
heated  and  applied  with  a  cloth.  The 
hot  acid  will  not  hurt  the  hands  or 
fabrics,  nor  the  glass,  but  should  be 
kept  from  children  who  might  drink  of 
it.  The  solution  is  made  of  commer- 
cial acetic  acid  and  heated  by  adding 
hot  water.  The  acid  is  inexpensive  and 
can  be  purchased  at  any  local  drug 
store. 


To   Prevent   Baking   Ovens  from 
Scorching 

A  good  method  to  prevent  baking 
ovens  from  scorching  or  burning 
pastry  is  to  sprinkle  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  salt  on  the  bottom  where  the  pans 
are  placed.  This  affords  a  way  of 
radiating  the  heat  evenly.  The  mix- 
ture also  absorbs  fruit  juices,  which 
may  be  spilled  in  the  course  of  cook- 
ing. The  covering  is  easily  changed, 
which  keeps  the  oven  clean.  The  best 
proportion  is  half  salt  and  half  sand. 


Horn  Candle  Sconce 

The  person  who  cares  for  things  un- 
usual will  find  the  candle  sconce  made 
of  a  cowhorn  a  suitable  fixture  for  the 
den.  A  well  shaped  and  not  too  large 
cowhorn  is  selected,  and  prepared  by 
first  partly  filling  it  with  paper,  packed 
in  tightly,  then  filling  it  to  the  top  with 
plaster  of  Paris,  in  which  a  candle 
socket  is  formed. 

The  bracket  is  made  of  strips  of 
metal,  formed  as  shown  and  riveted  to- 
gether where  they  touch  each  other, 
the  back  piece  being  fastened  with 
screws  to  a  wall  board.  The  metal 
may  be  brass  or  copper  and  finished  in 


PLASTOi  (WRIS 


The  Cowhorn  >A'ith 
Bracket  and    Wall 
Board,  Making  an  Unusual 
Candle  Sconce  for  the  Den 


nickel,  antique,  bronze,  or  given  a 
brush  finish.  The  wooden  wall  piece 
can  be  finished  in  any  style  desired. 


CWhite  spots  on  furniture  can  be 
removed  by  rubbing  the  wood  with 
ammonia. 


299 


How  to  Make  a  Copper  Stencil 
for  Marking  Laundry 

A  stencil  suitable  for  marking  laun- 
dry  may   be   easily   made  as   follows : 

First  procure  a  small  sheet  of  "sten- 
cil sheet  copper,"  about  1  in.  wide  and 
4  in.  long.  Dip  this  sheet  of  copper 
in  a  vessel  containing  some  melted 
beeswax,  so  that  both  sides  will  be 
evenly  covered  with  a  thin  coat  of  the 
wax  when  it  cools.  The  design — 
name,  monogram  or  figure — that  is 
wanted  in  the  stencil  should  now 
be  drawn  upon  a  piece  of  thin  white 
paper,  the  reverse  side  of  the  paper 
blackened  with  graphite,  and  then  laid 
on  the  stencil  plate  with  the  design  in 
the  center  of  the  plate,  whereupon  the 
design  is  lightly  traced  with  a  blunt 
point  on  the  thin  wax  coating.  After  the 
paper  is  removed,  trace  the  design  on 
the  wax  surface  with  a  pointed  instru- 
ment, but  not  completely,  the  lines 
being  broken  at  more  or  less  regular 
intervals,  to  form  "holders"  so  that, 
after  etching,  the  design  cannot  fall 
out. 

Next  lay  the  stencil  in  a  small  shal- 
low dish  and  pour  a  small  quantity  of 
fresh  nitric  acid  over  it.  Keep  the 
air  bubbles  removed  from  the  surface 
by  means  of  a  piece  of  soft  feather. 
The  design  will  be  eaten  away  in  a 
very  short  time,  where  the  wax  has 
been  removed,  and  this  may  be  readily 
observed  by  holding  the  stencil  plate 
up  to  the  light.  The  acid  should  then 
be  rinsed  off  with  water,  and  the  wax 
removed  by  heating  and  wiping  it  off 
with  a  cloth.  The  stencil  may  be 
given  a  final  cleaning  in  a  dish  of  ben- 
zine or  gasoline,  which  will  remove  any 
remaining  wax. 


A  Brass  Pin  Tray 

A  novelty  pin  tray  can  be  easily 
made  of  a  piece  of  No.  24  gauge  sheet 
brass  or  copper,  5  in.  in  diameter. 
The  metal  is  annealed  and  polished 
with  fine  emery  cloth,  which  is  given 
a  circular  motion  to  produce  a  frosted 
effect.  The  necessary  tools  are  a  1-in. 
hardwood   board   with   a   2V2-in.    hole 


bored  in  it,  and  a  round  piece  of  hard 
wood,  1%  or  2  in.  in  diameter,  with 
the  ends  sawn  off  square. 

Place  the  sheet  metal  centrally  over 


The  Former  and  Method  of  Using  It  to  Produce  a 
Wrinkled  Edge  on  the  Tray 

the  hole  in  the  board  and  set  one  end 
of  the  round  stick  in  the  center  of  the 
metal.  Drive  the  stick  with  a  ham- 
mer until  a  recess  about  1  in.  deep  is 
made  in  the  center.  The  edge  of  the 
metal  will  wrinkle  up  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to 
make  two  trays  alike,  as  the  edge 
almost  invariably  will  buckle  in  a  dif- 
ferent manner. — Contributed  by  F. 
Van  Eps,  Plainfield,  N.  J. 


A  Homemade  Exerciser 

A  weight  machine  for  exercising 
the  muscles  of  the  arms  is  easily  con- 
structed by  using  two  screw  hooks,  5 
in.  long,  and  two  small  pulleys,  2V2  in. 
in  diameter.  An  awning  pulley  can 
be  used  for  this  purpose.  The  hole 
at  the  top  of  the  hanger  will  allow 
the  pulley  to  freely  turn  at  almost  any 


-kJ 


The  Yoke  of  the  Pulley  is  so  Arranged  as  to  Make  It 
Move  in  All  Positions  on  the  Hook 

angle.  A  paving  brick  or  a  piece  of 
metal  can  be  used  as  a  weight  for  each 
rope. — Contributed  by  Sterling  R. 
Speirs,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 


30O 


A  Book  Covering 

New  books  can  be  quickly  and  neatly 
covered   to   keep   them   clean   by   cut- 


Paper  Covering  Kept  in 
Place  with  Corners 
Cut  from  Old  Envelopes 
and  Pasted  on  the  Paper 

ting  a  paper 
large  enough  to 
cover  the  back 
and  sides  when 
the     book      is 

closed,  allowing  1  in.  extra  at  each  end 
to  be  turned  over  the  front  and  back 
edges,  then  pasting  on  corners  cut 
from  used  envelopes.  The  paper  jacket 
can  be  slipped  on  or  off  easily  when  the 
book  is  opened,  and  it  will  keep  a  new 
cover  clean  while  the  book  is  being 
handled. — Contributed  by  Dr.  John  A. 
Cohalan,  Philadelphia. 


A  Tilting  Inkstand 

An  ink-bottle  stand,  that  can  be 
tilted  or  adjusted  so  that  the  pen  will 
always  be  filled  with  a  sufficient  quan- 
tit}'  of  ink  even  when  little  of  it  re- 
mains in  the  bottle,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  can  be  easily  made  by  the  ama- 
teur. The  base  may  consist  of  a 
square  piece  of  sheet  brass,  which  has 
soldered  or  riveted  to  its  centef  two 
pieces  of  spring  brass,  placed  cross- 
wise and  bent  upward  so  as  to  form 


Tilting  Stand  for  an  Ordinary  Ink  Bottle  to  Give 
Access  for  a  Small  Supply  of  Ink 

clips  to  hold  the  bottle  firmly.  The 
legs  are  made  of  two  lengths  of  wire, 
of  sufficient  stiffness,  and  are  shaped 
to  form  holders  for  lead  pencils  and 
penholders.     One  pair  of  the  legs  may 


be  soldered  to  the  brass  plate  and  the 
opposite  side  of  the  latter  rolled  over 
the  other  pair  so  as  to  allow  them 
either  to  stand  upright  or  be  depressed 
in  order  to  tilt  the  stand,  when  the  ink 
supply  in  the  bottle  gets  low. 


A  Ring  Trick 

The  trick  to  be  described  is  one  of 
the  simplest  and  at  the  same  time  one 
of  the  most  effective,  and  but  little 
"make-ready"  is  required  to  perform 
it.  The  magician,  while  sitting  in  a 
chair,  allows  his  hands  to  be  tied  to- 
gether behind  the  back  of  the  chair.  A 
ring  is  placed  between  his  lips  which 
he  claims  to  be  able  to  slip  on  his 
finger  without  untying  his  hands. 
This,  to  the  audience,  seems  practi- 
cally impossible,  but  it  is  easily  ac- 
complished. 

A  screen  is  placed  in  front  of  the 
performer  before  the  trick  is  started, 
so  that  the  audience  will  not  see  how 
it  is  done.  As  soon  as  he  is  hidden 
from  view,  he  tilts  his  head  forward 
and  drops  the  ring  in  his  lap.  He  then 
allows  the  ring  to  drop  to  the  seat  of 
the  chair  between  his  legs.  The  chair 
is  tilted  backward  slightly,  and  he 
raises  himself  to  allow  the  ring  to  slip 
to  the  back  part  of  the  chair  seat, 
where  he  catches  it  in  his  hands  and 
slips  it  on  the  finger.  Any  one  finger 
may  be  mentioned,  as  he  can  slip  the 
ring  as  readily  on  one  as  on  another. 
Use  a  leather-bottom  chair,  if  possible, 
as  the  least  noise  will  then  be  made 
when  the  ring  is  dropped. — Contribu- 
ted by  Abner  B.  Shaw,  N.  Dartmouth,. 
Massachusetts. 


Removing  Old  Putty 

A  verj'  effective  way  to  remove  old 
putty  from  window  panes  or  other 
articles  is  to  apply  a  red-hot  iron,  as 
follows:  The  iron  should  be  made  of 
a  broken  file  or  cold  chisel  and  the 
point  heated  quite  hot.  This  is  run 
over  the  surface  of  the  putty,  which 
will  crack  and  fall  off.  Be  careful  not 
to  let  the  hot  iron  touch  the  glass,  as 
the  heat  may  cause  the  latter  to  break. 


301 


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How  to  Make  a  Water  Wheel 


The  materials  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  this  water  wheel  are  such  as 
the  average  amateur  mechanic  may 
pick  up  or  secure  from  a  junk  pile.  The 
drawings  in  Fig.  1  clearly  show  the 
way  the  wheel  is  built.  The  nozzle, 
Fig.  2,  is  made  of  pipe  and  fittings  and 
is  adjustable  to  concentrate  the  stream 
so  as  to  get  the  full  efficiency  of  the 
weight  and  velocity  of  the  water.  The 
cap  on  the  end  of  the  nipple  is  drilled 
to  receive  the  pin  point  filed  on  the 


thick  sheet-metal  disk  of  the  diameter 
given  in  Fig.  1.  This  disk  is  fastened 
to  a  ^/4-in.  shaft,  6  in.  long,  with  two 
collars,  one  on  each  side  of  the  disk, 
both  being  riveted  to  the  disk  and 
pinned  to  the  shaft.  The  bearings  AA 
are  made  of  %-in.  pipe,  each  2i/4  in. 
long.  Long  threads  are  cut  on  these 
to  turn  through  the  two  %-in.  waste 
nuts  BB,  which  provides  a  way  to  ad- 
just the  buckets  centrally  with  the 
stream  of  water,  and  to  take  up  any 


h-H 


Fid.  I 
Details  of  the 

end  of  the  y^-irx.  rod.  The  parts  of  this 
nozzle  are  a  i/o-in.  tee,  connected  to  the 
source  of  water  supply ;  a  plug,  drilled 
to  snugly  fit  the  14-in.  rod,  and  fitted 
into  one  end  of  the  straight  part  of  the 
tee;  and  a  i/2-in-  nipple  of  sufficient 
length  to  make  the  dimension  shown  in 
the  sketch.  The  nipple  has  a  long 
thread  to  receive  two  \'-2-m.  locknuts, 
which  clamp  the  nozzle  to  the  sheet- 
metal  covering,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1. 

The  buckets,  Fig.  3,  are  formed  of 
some  easily  melted,  but  not  too  soft 
metal  alloy  which  can  be  cast  in  plas- 
ter molds.  They  are  attached  with  riv- 
ets   to    the   circumference    of   a   tg-in. 


^^13 

Fig  3 
Water  Wheel 

side  motion.  The  pipe  is  babbitted 
and  drilled  for  oil  holes.  The  runner 
or  wheel  must  be  well  balanced,  as 
the  speed  will  be  from  2,000  to  2,500 
revolutions  per  minute  with  ordinary 
city  pressure.  In  balancing  the  wheel, 
instead  of  adding  an  extra  weight,  a 
part  of  the  disk  is  filed  out  on  one  edge. 
The  inclosing  sides  are  made  of  wood — 
cypress  preferred — having  the  dimen- 
sions given,  and  two  Yg  by  11/2-'". 
pieces  are  attached  to  the  bottom  out- 
side surfaces  for  mounting  the  wheel. 
The  curved  part  is  covered  with  gal- 
vanized  sheet  metal. 

The    drawing    shows    a    wheel    of 


303 


small  diameter,  but  having  consider- 
able power.  Greater  power  may  be 
obtained  by  increasing  the  size  of  the 
jet  and  the  diameter  of  the  wheel,  but 
the   use  of  too  many   buckets   results 


O 

Isi)  (si 

FiG.4 
Metal  Casing  Instead  of  "Wood 

in  decrease  of  power.  One  bucket 
should  be  just  entering  the  stream  of 
water,  when  the  working  bucket  is  at 
a  point  at  right  angles  to  the  stream. 
The   water   should   divide   equally  ex- 


actly on  the  center  of  the  bucket  and 
get  out  of  the  way  as  soon  ai  possible. 
Any  stagnant  water  in  the  case,  or 
dead  water  in  the  bucket,  is  detri- 
mental to  the  power.  A  free  exit  for 
the  water  is  made  at  the  bottom  of 
the  case,  as  shown. 

The  construction  of  the  case  may 
be  varied  and,  instead  of  wood,  metal 
sides  and  frame  may  be  used.  Where 
the  builder  cares  to  make  a  more  sub- 
stantial wheel  and  has  access  to  a 
foundry,  the  metal  parts  can  be  made 
as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  The  parts  are  in 
this  instance  fastened  together  with 
machine  screws.  Patterns  are  made 
and  taken  to  a  foundry  for  the  cast- 
ings, which  are  then  machined  to  have 
close  fitting  joints. — Contributed  by 
R.  H.  Franklin,  Unnatosa,  Wis. 


An  Interesting  Experiment 

Take  an  ordinary  board,  2  or  3  ft. 
long,  such  as  a  bread  board,  and  place 
it  on  the  table  so  that  about  one-third 


striking  the 
Board 


of  its  length  will  project  over  the  edge. 
Unfold  a  newspaper  and  lay  it  on  the 
table  over  the  board  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  Anyone  not  familiar  with  the 
experiment  would  suppose  the  board 
could  be  knocked  off  by  hitting  it  on 
the  outer  end.  It  would  appear  to  be 
easy  to  do,  but  try  it.  Unless  you  are 
prepared  to  break  the  board  you  will 
probably  not  be  able  to  knock  the 
board  off. 

The  reason  is  that  when  the  board  is 
struck  it  forces  the  other  end  up  and 
the  newspaper  along  with  it.  This 
causes  a  momentary  vacuum  to  be 
formed  under  the  paper,  and  the  pres- 
sure of  the  air  above,  which  is  about 
15  lb.  to  the  square  inch,  prevents  the 


board  from  coming  up.  This  is  an 
entertaining  trick  to  play  at  an  even- 
ing party,  and  also  makes  a  simple  and 
interesting  school   experiment. 


Ironing-Board  Holder 

An  ironing  board  that  had  been  used 
on  two  chairs  was  cut  off  square  on 
one  end  and  a  piece  of  heavy  sheet 
metal  cut  and  bent  into  the  shape 
shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  square  end  of 
the  board  was  fitted  into  the  socket 
formed  by  the  sheet  metal.  After  at- 
taching the  socket  to  the  wall  with 
screws    the    board    was    easily    put    in 


Socket  and  Manner  of  Holding  Board 

place  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  brace  is 
hinged  to  the  under  side  of  the  board. 
— Contributed  by  L.  G.  Swett,  Roches- 
ter, N.  Y. 


303 


How  to   Make  a   "Water  Motor 

By  EDWARD  SILJA 


After  making  several  different  styles 
of  water  motors  I  found  the  one  illus- 
trated to  be  the  most  powerful  as  well 
as  the  simplest  and  most  inexpensive 
to  make.  It  can  be  constructed  in  the 
following  manner:  A  disk,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1,  cut  from  sheet  iron  or  brass, 
^  in.  thick  and  9-'^4  in.  in  diameter, 
constitutes  the  main  part  of  the  wheel. 
The  circumference  is  divided  into  2i 
equal  parts,  and  a  depth  line  marked 
which  is  81/i  '"•  in  diameter.  Notches 
are  cut  to  the  depth  line,  similar  to  the 
teeth  of  a  rip  saw,  one  edge  being  on  a 
line  with  the  center  of  the  wheel  and 
the  other  running  from  the  top  of  one 
tooth  to  the  base  of  the  preceding 
tooth. 

A  y^-in.  hole  is  drilled  in  the  center 
of  the  disk  and  the  metal  strengthened 
with  a  flange,  placed  on  each  side  of 
the  disk  and  fastened  with  screws  or 
rivets.  A  %,-in.  steel  rod  is  used  for  the 
shaft. 

The  cups,  or  buckets,  are  shaped  in 
a  die  which  can  be  cast  or  built  up  of 
two  pieces,  as  desired.  Both  of  these 
dies  are  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  one  at 
A  is  made  of  two  pieces  riveted  to- 
gether. 

If  a  foundry  is  near,  a  pattern  can  be 
made   for   a   casting,   as   shown   at    B. 


Metal  Disk  with  a  Saw-Tooth  Circumference  That 
Constitutes  the  Main  Body  of  the  Wheel 

The  die  is  used  in  the  manner  shown 
in  Fig.  3.    A  strip  of  galvanized  metal 


is  placed  over  the   depressions  in  the 
die  and  a  ball-peen  hammer  used  to 


Two  Ways  of  Making  the  Dies  to  Shape  the  Sheet- 
Metal  Water  Cups 

drive  the  metal  into  the  die.  Cups,  or 
buckets,  are  thus  formed  which  are  sol- 
dered to  the  edge  of  the  teeth  on  a 
line   with    the   center   of   the    disk,   as 


The  Sheet  Metal  is  Placed  on  the  Die  and  Then 
Hammered  into  Shape 

shown  in  Fig.  4.  As  there  are  24 
notches  in  the  disk,  2i  cups  will  be 
necessary  to  fill  them. 

The  cups  are  made  in  pairs  or  in  two 
sections,  which  is  a  better  construction 
than  the  single  cup.  The  water  from 
the  nozzle  first  strikes  the  center  be- 
tween the  cups,  then  divides  and  pro- 
duces a  double  force. 

When  this  part  of  the  work  is  fin- 
ished it  is  well  to  balance  the  wheel, 
which  can  be  done  by  filing  off  some 
of  the  metal  on  the  heavy  side  or  add- 
ing a  little  solder  to  the  light  side. 
This  will  be  necessary  to  provide  an 
easy-running  wheel  that  will  not  cause 
any  unnecessary  wear  on  the  bearings. 

The  housing  for  the  wheel  consists 
of  two  wood  pieces,  about  %-in.  thick 
and  cut  to  the  shape  shown  in  Fig.  .5. 
Grooves  are  cut  in  one  surface  of  each 
piece,  to  receive  the  edges  of  a  strip 
of  galvanized  metal,  as  shown  at  A. 
The  grooves  are  cut  with  a  specially 


304 


constructed  saw,  shown  in  Fig.  6.     It 
consists  of  a  piece  of  wood,  6  in.  long. 


V 


""'m///// 


^ 


^ 


The  Water  Cups  are  Fastened  to  the  Teeth  on  the 
Metal  Disk  with  Solder 

li/o  in.  wide  and  i/o  in.  thick,  the  end 
bemg  cut  on  an  arc  of  a  circle  whose 
diameter  is  10  in.  A  piece  of  a  broken 
hacksaw  blade  is  fastened  with  screws 
to  the  curved  end.  A  nail  is  used  as  a 
center  pivot,  forming  a  5-in.  anda  5%- 
in.  radius  to  swing  the  saw  on  in  cut- 


The  Housing  for  the  Wheel  with  a  Connection  to 
Attach  the  Motor  on  an  Ordinary  Faucet 

ting  the  groove.  After  inserting  the 
strip  of  galvanized  metal,  A,  Fig.  5,  the 
sides  are  clamped  together  with  bolts 

about  314  in-  lo"g- 

A  piece  of  pipe,  B,  Fig.  5,  having  an 
opening  %-in.  in  diameter,  is  soldered 
onto  the  metal  strip  A.     An  ordinary 


A  bearing,  D,  shaped  as  shown,  is 
fastened  to  one  of  the  wood  sides  with 
screws,  the  wheel  shaft  is  run  into  it, 
and  the  parts  assembled.  A  wheel, 
either  grooved  or  flat,  2I/2  or  3  in.  in  di- 
ameter, is  placed  on  the  shaft.  The 
hose  coupling  makes  it  easy  to  connect 
the  motor  directly  to  the  water  faucet. 


(0 

0 

i 

e 
e 

5- -^3- 

,  + 

T 

U- 

t 

\ 

An  Application  for  Small  Wounds 

Pure  wintergreen  oil  makes  a  good 
local  application  for  all  small  wounds, 
bites,  scratches,  abrasions,  etc.  There 
is  no  germ  or  microbe,  animal  or  vege- 
table, dead  or  living,  that  can  with- 
stand this  oil,  and  at  the  same  time  it 
is  not  injurious  to  living  tissues.  A  few 
drops  gently  rubbed  in  where  there  is 
apt  to  be  any  infection  is  sufficient. 

An  infection  always  follows  the 
wound  of  a  bullet  or  the  scratch  of  a 
brass  pin,  with  irritation  extending 
up  the  limb  or  part  threatening  tetanus 
or  lockjaw.  These  symptoms  are  mani- 
fested by  spasmodic  pains  which  shoot 
upward,  but  are  quickly  subdued,  if 
the  oil  is  applied  along  the  track  of 
the  pain  or  infection.  This  oil  is 
equally  efTective  when  locally  applied 
to  tendons  or  ligaments  which  have 
been  unduly  strained. 

An  ounce  of  the  pure  oil  does  not 
cost  much,  and  it  should  be  kept  in 
every  shop  and  household.  If  5  or  10 
per  cent  of  olive  oil  is  added  to  it,  the 
oil  will  have  more  body  and  will  last 
longer. — Contributed  by  Dr.  E.  R. 
Ellis,  Detroit,  Mich. 


Fig, 6 

Construction  of  the  Saw  for  Making  the  Groove  to 
Receive  the  Metal  Strip  in  the  Sides 

garden-hose  coupling,  C,  is  soldered  to 
the  end  of  the  pipe. 


Cores  for  Use  in  Babbitt  Metal 

It  is  often  necessary  in  making  things 
of  babbitt  metal  to  core  out  some  of  the 
parts.  A  very  good  core  is  made  of 
common  salt  and  glue.  Mix  just 
enough  of  the  glue  into  the  salt  to 
makea  stif?  paste,  which  is  then  formed 
into  the  desired  shape  or  molded  in  a 
core  box  and  allowed  to  harden.  This 
kind  of  a  core  can  be  removed  from 
the  casting  by  soaking  it  in  warm 
water,  which  will  dissolve  the  salt  and 
leave  the  desired  hole. — Contributed 
by  H.  F.  Hopkins,  N.  Girard,  Pa. 


305 


How  to  Build  a  "Wind  Vane  with  an  Electric  Indicator 


Quite  often  it  is  practically  impos- 
sible to  ascertain  the  direction  of  the 
wind  by  observing  an  ordinary  wind 
vane  on  account  of  the  necessity  of  lo- 
cating the  vane  at  such  a  height  that 
it  may  give  a  true  indication.  By 
means  of  the  device  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
the  position  of  the  vane  may  be  deter- 
mined without  actually  looking  at  the 
vane  itself  and  the  indicating  device 
may  be  located  almost  anywhere  and 
independently  of  the  position  of  the 
wind  vane. 

The  principle  upon  which  the  device 
operates  is  that  of  the  Wheatstone 
bridge.  The  position  of  the  moving 
contact  A,  Fig.  1,  is  controlled  by  the 
wind  vane.  This  contact  is  made  to 
move  over  a  specially  constructed  re- 
sistance R,  Fig.  2.  A  second  movable 
contact,  B,  is  controlled  by  the  observer 
and  moves  over  a  second  resistance, 
identical  with  that  over  which  the  con- 
tact A  moves.  These  two  resistances 
are  connected  so  as  to  form  the  two 
main  branches  of  a  Wheatstone  bridge  ; 
the  points  A  and  B  are  connected  to  the 
current-detecting  device,  which  may 
be  a  galvanometer  or  telephone  re- 
ceiver, and  current  is  supplied  by  a 
number  of  dry  cells. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  balance — that 
is,  no  current  through  the  receiver — the 
points  A  and  B  must  occupy  corre- 
sponding positions  on  their  respective 
resistances.  If  the  two  resistances 
over  which  the  points  A  and  B  move 
are  mounted  in  the  same  position  with 
respect  to  the  cardinal  points  of  the 
compass,  then  the  points  themselves 
will  always  be  in  the  same  position 
with  respect  to  the  cardinal  points 
when  a  balance  is  obtained.  The  ar- 
row head  on  the  wind  vane  and  the 
point  A  are  made  to  occupy  corre- 
sponding positions,  and  hence  the  po- 
sition of  the  point  B,  when  no  current 
passes  through  the  receiver,  is  an  in- 
dication of  the  direction  in  which  the 
wind  vane  is  pointing. 

The  principal  parts  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  device  are  shown  in  the  il- 


lustration, and  the  following  descrip- 
tion of  their  construction  may  be  of  in- 
terest to  those  who  contemplate  build- 
ing the  indicator. 


5T\AAAAyVY\^AAA/W^^j 


Fig.  1 — The  Diagram  of  a  Wheatstone  Bridge  ^Vhich 
Shows  the  Points  of  Contact  So  Placed  That  a 
Balance  is   Obtained 

Procure  two  pieces  of  t'ff-in.  hard 
rubber,  II/2  in.  wide  by  24  in.  long. 
Clamp  these,  side  by  side,  between  two 
boards  and  smooth  down  their  edges 
and  ends,  and  then  file  small  slots  in 
the  edges  with  the  edge  of  a  three- 
cornered  file.  These  slots  should  all 
be  equally  spaced  about  g\  in.  apart. 
Have  the  pieces  clamped  together 
while  filing  the  slots  and  mark  one 
edge  top  and  one  end  right  so  that 
the  pieces  may  be  mounted  alike.  Now 
procure  a  small  quantity  of  No.  20 
gauge  bare  manganin  wire.  Fasten 
one  end  of  this  wire  to  one  end  of 
the  pieces  of  rubber  by  winding  it  in 
and  out  through  three  or  four  small 
holes  and  then  wind  it  around  the 
piece,  placing  the  various  turns  in  the 
small  slots  that  were  filed  in  the  edges. 
After  completing  the  winding,  fasten 
the  end  just  as  the  starting  end  was 
attached.  Wind  the  second  piece  of 
rubber  in  a  similar  manner  and  make 
sure  to  have  the  length  of  the  free  ends 
in  each  case  the  same.  Obtain  a  cylin- 
der of  some  kind,  about  8  in.  in  diam- 
eter, warm  the  pieces  of  rubber  by  dip- 
ping them  in  hot  water,  bend  them 
around  the  cylinder  and  allow  them 
to  cool. 

A  containing  case,  similar  to  that 
shown  in  cross  section  in  the  upper 
portion  of  Fig.  2  should  now  be 
constructed  from  a  good  quality  of 
tin  or  copper.     The  inside  diameter  of 


306 


this  case  should  be  about  1  in.  more 
than  the  outside  diameter  of  the  re- 
sistance ring  R,  and  it  should  be  about 
3  in.  deep.     The  top  C  may  be  made 


Fig.  2— The  ■Weather  Vane  with  Resistance  Coil,  and 
Diagram  of  Indicator  Which  is  Identical  with  That 
of  the  Vane 

curved  as  shown  in  the  illustration, 
and  should  be  fastened  to  the  case 
proper  by  a  number  of  small  machine 
screws.  The  base  of  this  case  may  be 
made  so  that  the  whole  device  can  be 
mounted  on  the  top  of  a  pole. 

Mount  a  piece  of  V^-'m.  steel  rod, 
about  1/2  in-  long,  with  a  conical  hole 
in  one  end,  in  the  center  of  the  bottom 
of  the  case  as  shown  by  M.  A  number 
of  supports,  similar  to  the  one  shown, 
should  be  made  from  some  V^-in.  hard 
rubber  and  fastened  to  the  sides  of 
the  case,  to  support  the  resistance  ring. 
The  dimensions  of  these  supports 
should  be  such  that  the  ends  of  the 
piece  of  rubber,  forming  the  ring,  are 
against  each  other  when  it  is  in  place. 
The  upper  edge  of  the  ring  should  be 


about  2  in.  above  the  bottom  of  the 
case. 

Ne.xt,  mount  a  piece  of  brass  tube, 
D,  in  the  exact  center  of  the  top  and 
perpendicular  to  it.  A  washer,  E,  may 
also  be  soldered  to  the  top  so  as  to 
aid  in  holding  the  tube.  Procure  a 
piece  of  steel  rod,  F,  that  will  fit  in 
the  tube  D  and  turn  freely.  Sharpen 
one  end  of  this  rod  and  mount  a  brass 
wind  vane  on  the  other  end.  A  small 
metal  cup,  G,  may  be  soldered  to  a 
washer,  H,  and  the  whole  mounted  on 
the  steel  rod  F  in  an  inverted  position 
as  shown,  which  will  prevent  water 
from  getting  down  inside  the  case 
along  the  rod.  The  cup  G  may  be 
soldered  directly  to  the  rod.  Make  a 
small  arm,  J,  of  brass,  and  fasten  a 
piece  of  light  spring,  K,  to  one  side 
of  it,  near  the  outer  end,  then  mount 
the  arm  on  the  steel  rod  so  that  it  is 
parallel  to  the  vane  and  its  outer  end 
points  in  the  same  direction  as  the  ar- 
row on  the  vane.  The  free  end  of  the 
light  spring  on  the  arm  J  should  be 
broad  enough  to  bridge  the  gap  be- 
tween adjacent  turns  of  wire  on  the 
resistance  ring.  Four  bindings  should 
then  be  mounted  on  the  inside  of  the 
case  and  all  insulated  from  it  with  the 
exception  of  number  1.  Numbers  3 
and  .3  are  connected  to  the  ends  of  the 
winding  and  number  -i  is  connected  to 
number  3. 

A  second  outfit  should  now  be  con- 
structed, identical  with  the  one  just 
described  except  that  it  should  have 
a  flat  top  with  a  circular  scale  mounted 
on  it,  and  the  arm  L  should  be  con- 
trolled by  a  small  handle  in  the  center 
of  the  scale.  The  position  of  the  con- 
tact B  may  be  indicated  on  the  scale 
by  a  slender  pointer,  attached  to  the 
handle  controlling  the  arm  L. 

Four  leads  of  equal  resistance  should 
be  used  in  connecting  the  two  devices 
and  the  connections  made  as  shown. 
An  ordinary  buzzer  placed  in  the  bat- 
tery circuit  will  produce  an  interrupted 
current  through  the  bridge  circuit  and 
a  balance  will  be  obtained  by  adjust- 
ing the  contact  point  B  until  a  min- 
imum hum  is  heard  in  the  telephone 
receiver. 


307 


k        }' 


SS.-^-^5S.?-; 


'.<•/'     <:' 


Planting  Seeds  in  Egg  Shells 

AMien  growing  flower  plants  from 
seeds,  start  them  in  halves  of  shells 
from  hard-boiled  eggs.  When  the  time 
comes  to  transplant  them,  they  can  be 
easily  removed  by  allowing  the  dirt  in 
the  shell  to  become  hard  and  then 
breaking  off  the  shell,  whereupon  the 
plant  is  placed  in  the  ground. 

A  pasteboard  box  provided  with 
holes  large  enough  to  support  the  egg 
shells  can  be  used  to  hold  them,  un- 
less ^^^  crates  are  at  hand.  Two 
large  seeds  such  as  nasturtiums  and 
sweet  peas  can  be  planted  in  one  shell, 
and  four  seeds  of  the  smaller  varie- 
ties.— Contributed  by  Katharine  D. 
Morse,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


Locating  Drip  Pan  under  a 
Refrigerator 

In  replacing  the  drip  pan  of  an  ice 
box  or  refrigerator  it  is  often  neces- 
sary to  bend  over  in  locating  it  under 
the  drip  pipe.  This  trouble  may  be 
done  away  with  by  fastening  two 
strips  of  wood  in  a  V-shape  to  the  floor 
beneath  the  refrigerator.  When  the 
pan  is  shoved  under,  it  will  strike  one 


Strips  on  Floor  under  Refrigerator 

strip  and  slide  along  until  it  strikes  the 
other.  Then  the  pan  is  sure  to  be  un- 
der the  drip  pipe. — Contributed  by 
Lloyd  A.  Phelan,  Beachmont,  Mass. 


Windmill  for  Light  Power 

The  windmill  shown  in  the  sketch 
is  one  that  will  always  face  the  wind, 
and  it  never  requires  adjustment.     It 


>-^ 

^^ 

^% 

D'i 

DIRECTION    or 
WIND 


Frames  Hinged  to  the  Arms 

consists  of  a  vertical  shaft,  A,  provided 
with  a  number  of  arms,  B,  on  which 
are  hinged  square  sails,  C.  These  sails 
are  preferably  made  of  wood  frames 
covered  with  canvas.  They  are  pro- 
vided with  hinges,  D,  attached  to  the 
ends  of  the  arms  in  such  a  way  that 
they  ofifer  resistance  to  the  wind  on 
one  side  of  the  wheel,  while  they  move 
edgewise  against  the  wind  on  the  other 
side,  as  shown.  The  shaft  of  the  mill 
can  either  be  run  in  bearings  set  on 
an  upright  post,  the  lower  end  of  the 
shaft  turning  on  a  conical  bearing,  or 
collars  may  be  used  on  the  bearings  to 


308 


keep  it  in  position.  The  power  can  be 
transmitted  with  gears  or  by  a  flat  belt 
over  a  pulley. 

A  wheel  of  this  kind  is  not  adapted 
for  high  speed,  but  direct-connected  to 
a  pump  or  other  slow-working  machin- 
ery will  prove  very  efficient. — Con- 
tributed by  Edward  Hanson,  Kane, 
Pennsylvania. 


A  Small  Bunsen  Burner 

An  excellent  bunsen  burner  for 
small  work  can  be  made  as  follows: 
Draw  a  glass  tube  to  the  shape  shown, 
to  produce  a  fine 
hollow  point. 
Mark  carefully 
with  a  file  and 
break  at  A  and 
then  at  B.  Bore 
or  burn  a  hole 
in  a  cork  to  fit 
the  tube.  Cut  a 
V-shaped  notch 
in  the  side  of 
the  cork  extend- 
ing to  the  hole. 
Bend  the  lower 
tube  at  right 
angles  and  in- 
sert it  in  a  wood 
block,  previously  slotted  with  a  saw 
to  make  a  snug  fit.  A  little  glue  will 
hold  the  glass  tubes,  cork  and  base 
together.  The  air  mixture  can  be  ad- 
justed by  sliding  the  upper  tube  be- 
fore the  glue  sets. 

The  burner  is  especially  adapted  to 
continuous  work,  such  as  sealing 
packages,  etc.  The  flame  will  not 
discolor  the  wax. — Contributed  by  E. 
P.  Ferte,  Spokane,  Wash. 


The  Hindoo  Sand  Trick 

This  is  one  of  the  many  tricks  for 
which  the  Hindoos  are  famous,  and 
was  long  kept  a  secret  by  them.  It 
consists  of  placing  ordinary  sand  in  a 
basin  full  of  water,  stirring  the  water 
and  taking  out  the  sand  in  handfuls 
perfectly  dry.  It  need  scarcely  be  said 
that  without  previous  preparation,  it  is 
impossible  to  do  so. 


Take  2  lb.  of  fine  silver  sand,  place  it 
in  a  frying  pan  and  heat  well  over  a 
clear  fire.  When  the  sand  is  thor- 
oughly heated,  place  a  small  piece  of 
grease  or  wax — the  composition  of  a 
paraffin  candle  preferred — in  the  sand, 
stirring  it  well  to  get  it  thoroughly 
mixed,  then  allow  the  sand  to  cool. 
When  this  sand  is  placed  in  a  basin  of 
water,  it  will  be  apparently  dry  when 
taken  out.  It  is  very  important  that 
only  a  small  portion  of  the  adherent 
be  used  so  that  it  cannot  be  detected 
when  the  sand  is  examined  by  the  audi- 
ence. The  explanation  is  that  the 
grease  or  wax  coating  on  each  sand 
particle  repels  the  water. — Contributed 
by  Mighty  Oaks,  Oshkosh,  Wis. 


A   Kite-Line   Cutaway  for   Toy 
Parachutes 

The  cutaway  is  made  of  a  small 
piece  of  board,  a  cigar-box  lid,  an  old 
yardstick  or  a  piece  of  lath,  which 
should  be  about  6  in.  long.  Common 
carpet  wire  staples  are  used  to  hold 
it  on  the  string.  The  under  side  has 
a  wire  bent  into  such  a  shape  as  to 
form  a  loop  at  the  forward  end  over 
the  kite  string,  then  running  back 
through  the  two  staples  at  the  one 
side  and  through  two  staples  at  the 
other  side. 

The  parachute  should  have  a  small 
wire  ring  fastened  at  the  weight  end 
so    as    to    fasten    in    the    carrier,    and 


"Wires  Attached 
to  the  Traveler 


should  be  put  between  the  two  staples 
that  are  closest  together  on  the  under 
side  of  the  carrier.  A  small  nail  or 
button — anything  larger  than  the  loop 
in  the  wire — should  be  attached  to  the 
kite  string  a  few  feet  from  the  kite. 
When  the  parachute  is  carried  up  the 
kite  string,  the  knob  on  the  string  will 


309 


strike  the  loop  of  the  wire  on  the  car- 
rier, which  releases  the  parachute  and 
allows  it  to  drop.  The  carrier  will  re- 
turn of  its  own  weight  to  the  lower 
end  of  the  string. — Contributed  by  I. 
O.   Lansing,    Lincoln,   Neb. 


A  Cherry  Fitter 

Procure  an  ordinary  quill  feather 
and  cut  the  tip  off  to  form  a  small  hole. 
Do  not  remove  so  much  of  the  end  that 
the  cherry  stone  can  stick  in  it.  The 
hole  must  be  slightly  smaller  than  the 
cherry  stone.  Push  the  quill  through 
the  center  of  the  cherry  and  the  stone 
will  come  out  easily. — Contributed  by 
Harold  Wynning,  Chicago,  111. 


To  Hold  a  Fish  while  Removing  the 
Scales 

Insert  a  screwdriver  or  ice  pick  in 
a  fish  as  shown,  and  the  scales  can  be 
removed  much  better  and  quicker  than 
in  any  other  way.     The  handle  of  the 


Holding  Fish  for  Scaling 


screwdriver  afifords  an  efficient  grip 
so  that  the  fish  can  be  held  firmly  on 
the  board  and  every  scale  can  be  re- 
moved. 


Carrying  Stone  Jars 

The  handholds  on  stone  jars  are 
usually  not  large  enough  to  carry  the 
jars  safely  when  they  are  full.  If  the 
handles  of  an  old  galvanized  tub  are 
riveted  to  a  leather  strap  long  enough 
to  reach  under  the  bottom  and  almost 
to  the  top  on  each  side,  the  jar  can  be 
handled  without  danger  of  being 
dropped.  The  fingers  are  placed  in 
the  handles  to  carry  the  weight,  while 
the  thumbs  are  used  to  keep  the  jar 
from  tipping.  By  placing  a  buckle 
near  one  end,  the  strap  may  be  used 
for  carrying  a  jar  of  any  size. — Con- 
tributed by  C.  H.  Floyd,  Elwood,  Ind. 


Vibrator  for  a  Spark  Coil 

If  you  do  not  have  the  time  to  make 
a  vibrator  or  electrolytic  interrupter  for 
a  spark  coil,  a  common  electric  door- 


bell makes  a  good  substitute.  Connect 
one  of  the  primary  wires  to  the  bind- 
ing-post of  the  bell  that  is  not  insulated 
from  the  frame,  and  the  other  primary 
wire  to  the  adjusting  screw  on  the 
make-and-break  contact  of  the  bell,  as 
shown  in  the  sketch.  The  connections 
are  made  from  the  batteries  to  the  bell 
in  the  usual  manner. — Contributed  by 
Ralph  Tarshis,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


Head  Rest  for  a  Chair 

While  seated  in  a  chair  a  person 
very  often  desires  to  lay  the  head  back 
in  resting.  A  support  for  the  head  is 
lacking  in  the  low-back  rockers  and 
ordinary  chairs.  A  detachable,  padded 
support  can  be  easily  made  at  home 
for  placing  on  any  low-back  chair  and 
used  as  a  head  rest. 

The  support  standards  can  be  made 
of  wood  or  metal  as  desired.     If  metal 


Rest  on  Chair  Back 


is  used,  the  rest  will  have  some  spring- 
iness, which  combined  with  the  pad 
will  insure  much  greater  comfort  than 


310 


the  hard  rigid  back.  A  cloth  or  paper 
is  placed  over  the  back  of  the  chair 
to  prevent  marring  of  the  varnish  or 
wood. 


Lighting  a  Lawn  Mower  for  Use  at 
Night 

Those  who  desire  to  do  so,  or  must, 
for  lack  of  time  during  the  day,  may 
use  their  lawn 
mower  at  night 
and  light  the 
front  of  their 
machine  with  an 
ordinary  bicycle 
lamp.  The  arm 
to  hold  the  lamp 
can  be  attached 
with  screws  to 
the  handle  as 
shown  in  the 
sketch.  It  is 
easily  made  from 
a  piece  of  hoop 
or  bar  iron. — 
Contributed  by  Samuel  F.  Reid,  Min- 
neapolis, Minn. 


Tying  a  Rosette  in  a  Couch-Cover 
Corner 

In  the  accompanying  illustration  is 
shown  a  very  simple  method  of  tying 
a  rosette  in  the  corner  of  a  couch 
cover.  The  use  of  the  average  couch 
cover  as  a  throw-over  leaves  a  large 
corner  which  drags  upon  the  floor.  To 
dispose  of  this  extra  length  and  at  the 


Spread  the  couch  cover  on  the  couch 
so  that  the  surplus  is  evenly  divided 
between  the  sides  and  ends,  and  pass 
a  pin  through  the  cover  to  show  each 
corner  as  in  Fig.  1.  Measure  the  dis- 
tance from  each  corner  of  the  couch 
to  the  floor.  Fig.  2,  and  measuring 
from  the  point  of  the  corner,  mark  the 
same  distance  by  the  insertion  of  an- 
other pin,  repeating  in  all  four  corners. 
The  distance  between  the  two  pins  at 
each  corner  now  defines  the  amount  of 
surplus  that  is  to  be  taken  up.  Chalk 
a  circle  to  include  the  portion  between 
these  two  pins,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  and 
with  a  circular  needle  and  stout  stitch- 
ing twine  run  a  shirring  thread  around 
the  circle,  and  when  this  is  drawn 
tightly  and  tied,  the  surplus  is  formed 
into  a  rosette,  while  the  corner  may 
be  draped  into  an  artistic  cascade,  as 
shown  in  I<'ig.  4. 


W 


1 


Driving  Screws 

A  wood  screw  having  the  threads 
hammered  flat  on  two  sides  can  be 
easily  driven  in 
with  the  flat- 
tened sides  par- 
allel to  the  grain 
of  the  wood. 
When  the  screw 
isturneda 
quarter  turn  the 

remaining  threads  cross  the  grain  and 
hold  as  well  as  if  they  had  been  turned 
in  all  the  way.  This  is  an  especial 
advantage  where  something  is  wanted 


II 


FI6.I 


Fio.2 


Fig. 4 


Fig  3 
Different  Stages    in   Tying  the    Rosette 

same  time  make  an  artistic  corner,  the  which  is  easily  inserted  and  will  hold 
Upholsterer  suggests  the  following  better  than  a  nail. — Contributed  by 
method:  P.  D.  Merrill,  Chicago. 


311 


A  Power  Windmill 


The  windmill  shown  is  somewhat 
different  from  the  ordinary  kind.  It 
is  not  a  toy,  nor  does  it  approach  in 
size  the  ordinary  farm  windmill,  l)ut 
is  a  compromise  between  the  two,  and 
in  a  good  strong  wind,  will  supply 
power  enough  to  run  a  washing  ma- 
chine, a  small  dynamo,  an  emery 
wheel,  or  any  other  device  used  in 
the  home  workshop.  The  wheel  is 
about  5  ft.  in  diameter,  with  eight 
blades.  The  over-all  length  is  about 
6  feet. 

The  windmill  is  easily  made  and 
the  cost  is  within  the  means  of  the 
average  boy.  There  is  not  a  part  used 
in  its  construction  that  cannot  be 
found  about  an  ordinary  manual-train- 
ing shop.  The  most  difficult  parts  of 
the  construction  will  be  described  in 


The  Hub  Consists  of  Two  Parts.  Each  Having  Four 
Arms  for  Holding  the  Blades 

detail.  Symmetry  and  smoothness  of 
design  should  be  preserved  and  the 
parts  made  as  light  as  possible  con- 
sistent  with    strength   and    durability. 


The  Wheel 

As  shown  in  the  drawings,  the  wheel 
has  eight  blades.  Ordinarily  the  use 
of    eight   blades   makes   it   difficult   to 


The  Supporting  Standard 
Holds  the  Machine   Head 
with    the   Wheel   and    the 
Vane  on  an  Axis 


construct  a  hub  of  sufficient  strength 
to  carry  them.  Where  so  many  blades 
radiate  from  a  common  center  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  provide  an 
anchorage  for  each  blade.  To  provide 
a  maximum  of  strength  coupled  with 
simplicity  of  design,  the  plan  of  using 
two  hubs  of  four  arms  each  was 
adopted  in  the  construction  of  this 
mill.  The  ordinary  hub  of  four  arms 
is  simple  to  make  and  quite  strong. 
Four  pieces  of  straight-grained  oak, 
each  1(5  in.  long  and  lyg  in-  square,  are 
used  in  constructing  the  hubs.  The 
manner  of  notching  each  pair  of  pieces 
together  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The 
slope  for  the  blades  is  made  to  run 
in  opposite  directions  on  the  ends  of 
each  crosspiece.     The  slope  is  formed 


312 


by  cutting  out  a  triangular  piece,  as 
shown. 

The  two  hubs,  thus  formed,  are 
mounted  on  the  shaft,  one  behind  the 
other,  in  such  positions  that  the  arms 
will  be  evenly  divided  for  space  in  the 
wheel  circle.  These  details  are  shown 
in  Fig.  2.  The  blades.  Fig.  3,  are 
made  of  thin  basswood  or  hard  maple, 
and  each  is  fastened  in  its  place  by 
means  of  two  %-in.  bolts,  in  addition 
to  which  a  few  brads  are  driven  in  to 
prevent  the  thin  blades  from  warping. 

The  Gears 

This  windmill  was  designed  to 
transmit  power  by  means  of  shafts 
and  gear  wheels,  rather  than  with 
cranks  and  reciprocating  pump  rods, 
such  as  are  used  on  ordinary  farm 
mills.  To  obtain  this  result,  an  old 
sewing  machine  head  was  used.  Such 
a  part  can  be  obtained  from  a  junk 
dealer  or  a  sewing-machine  agent. 
The  head  is  stripped  of  its  base  plate 
with  the  shuttle  gearing;  likewise  the 
needle  rod,  presser  foot,  etc.,  are  taken 
from  the  front  end  of  the  head  along 
with  the  faceplate.  The  horizontal 
shaft  and  gear  wheel  are  taken  out 
and  the  bearings  reamed  out  for  a 
i/2-in.  shaft,  which  is  substituted.  The 
shaft  should  be  2  ft.  in  length,  and  8 
or  10  in.  of  its  outer  end  threaded  for 
the  clamping  nuts  which  hold  the  two 
hubs  in  place,  as  shown  at  A  and  B, 
Fig.  2.  The  gear  wheel  is  also  bored 
out  and  remounted  on  the  new  shaft. 

The  supporting  standard  is  con- 
structed of  oak,  with  mortise-and- 
tenon  joints,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  The 
width  of  the  pieces  will  depend  on 
the  kind  of  sewing-machine  head  used. 
It  may  be  necessary  also  to  slightly 
change  the  dimensions.  The  machine 
head  is  fastened  on  the  support  with 
bolts.  A  sleeve  and  thrust  spring  are 
mounted  on  the  shaft,  as  shown.  The 
sleeve  is  made  of  brass  tubing,  of  a 
size  to  fit  snugly  on  the  shaft.  A 
cotter  will  keep  it  in  place.  The  sleeve 
serves  as  a  collar  for  the  thrust  spring, 
which  is  placed  between  the  sleeve 
and  the  standard.  This  arrangement 
acts  as  a  buffer  to  take  up  the  end 
thrust    on    the    shaft    caused    by    the 


varying  pressure   of  the  wind  on   the 
wheel. 

The  Vane 

To  keep  the  wheel  facing  the  wind 
at  all  times,  a  vane  must  be  provided. 
It  is  made  of  basswood  or  hard  maple, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  It  is  not  built  up 
solid,  air  spaces  being  left  between 
the  slats  to  reduce  the  wind  resistance. 
Unless  built  in  this  manner,  the  vane 
is  liable  to  twist  off  in  a  gale.  The 
horizontal  slats  are  Vi  in-  thick,  and 
the  upright  and  cross  braces  %  in. 
thick,  while  the  long  arm  connecting 
the  vane  to  the  supporting  standard  is 
y2  in.  thick. 

The  supporting  standard,  carrying 
the  wheel  and  the  vane,  must  revolve 
about  a  vertical  axis  with  the  changes 
in  the  wind,  and  this  vertical  axis  is 
supplied  in  the  form  of  a  piece  of  gas 
pipe  which  runs  through  the  support- 
ing standard  at  the  points  marked  C 
and  D,  Fig.  4.  Ordinary  pipe  fittings, 
called  flanges,  are  bolted  to  the  frame 
at  these  points.  The  coupling  in  the 
gas  pipe  beneath  the  supporting  stand- 
ard serves  as  a  stationary  collar  to 
support  the  weight  of  the  whole  mill. 
The  vane  should  be  placed  correctly 
to  balance  the  weight  of  the  wheel. 

The  shaft  passes  through  the  frame- 
work of  the  mill  on  the  inside  of  the 
pipe,  as  shown  at  E.  A  %-in.  soft- 
steel  or  wrought-iron  rod  is  satis- 
factory for  the  shaft,  as  no  weight  is 
supported  by  it  and  only  a  twisting 
force  is  transmitted.  The  use  of  a 
larger  rod  makes  the  mill  cumbersome 
and  unwieldy.  The  upper  end  of  the 
shaft  is  fastened  to  the  shaft  that  pro- 
jects from  the  under  side  of  the  ma- 
chine head  by  means  of  a  sleeve  made 
of  a  piece  of  %-in.  pipe.  Two  cotters 
hold  the  shafts  and  sleeve  together. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  shaft,  inside 
the  workshop,  the  device  shown  in 
Fig.  6  is  installed.  The  purpose  of 
this  appliance  is  to  provide  a  horizon- 
tal shaft  upon  which  pulleys  or  driv- 
ing gears  may  be  mounted.  The 
device  is  constructed  of  another  sew- 
ing-machine head  similar  to  the  one 
already  described.  The  head  is  cut  in 
two   and   the   separate  parts   mounted 


313 


on  suitable  supports.  The  gap  be- 
tween the  sawed  portions  permits  a 
pulley  to  be  fastened  on  the  shaft  to 
serve  as  the  main  drive.  The  wheel 
propelled  by  the  treadle  of  the  sewing 


sewing-machine    belts    will    serve    to 
transmit  the  power. 

The  Tower 

The   tower   can   be  built   up   in   any 
manner  to  suit  the  conditions.     Ordi- 


Fic  6 


The  Lower  End  of  the  Shaft  has  a  Horizontal    Shaft 

Geared  to  It  for  the  Drive  Pulleys.     The  Vane 

Construction  and  the  Manner  of  Building  the  Tower 

on  Which  the  Supporting  Standard  Revolves 


machine     will     make     a     good     drive  narily  sticks,  2  in.  square,  are  suitable, 

wheel.  The  small  handwheel,  originally  These  are  well  braced  with  wire  and 

mounted    on   the    machine-head    shaft,  fastened    securely   to   the   roof   of   the 

is  left  intact.     This  arrangement  gives  shop.     The  arrangement  of  the  tower 

two    sizes    of    drive    wheels.     Heavy  with  the  mill  is  shown  in  Fig.  7. 


Telegraph  Code  on  Typewriter  Keys 

A  very  simple  and  practical  method 
of  transcribing  wireless  time  and  other 
messages  on  the  typewriter  without 
having  such  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
Morse  system  as  to  be  able  to  imme- 
diately translate  it  into  the  common 
alphabet  is  the  following:  The  char- 
acters of  the  Morse  system  are  in- 
scribed on  small  slips  of  paper — thus, 
three  dots  (...)>  ^o^  the  letter  S ;  two 


dashes  (-  -),  for  the  letter  M,  etc. — 
and  these  slips  are  pasted  on  the  cor- 
responding keys  of  the  typewriter. 
The  operator  puts  on  his  receiver,  and 
the  proper  key  is  struck  as  he  hears 
the  corresponding  Morse  letter.  As 
there  are  no  capitals,  spacing  between 
words,  or  even  punctuation,  the  ma- 
nipulation of  the  typewriter  is  much 
simplified,  and  it  is  easily  learned  to 
record  the  signals  as  fast  as  they  are 
heard. 


314 


An  Aid  in  Sketching  Profiles 

The  means  usually  employed  by 
most  beginners  to  obtain  the  correct 
outline  of  an  object,  such  as  tracing  or 


The    Fine   Wire  is  Bent   as  Near   as 
Possible  to  the  Outline  ol  the  Object 


a  pantograph,  make  them  dependent 
on  mechanical  help  rather  than  train 
the  eye  to  form  and  proportion  a  draw- 
ing correctly.  The  device  shown  not 
only  greatly  assists  the  beginner,  but 
actually  trains  him  toward  a  point 
where  he  can  dispense  with  any  such 
device  and  correctly  sketch  by  free 
hand.  It  also  has  the  effect  of  en- 
couraging the  beginner,  because  his 
first  efforts  will  not  be  complete  fail- 
ures, as  is  usually  the  case. 

The  device  consists  of  a  rather  fine 
wire  bent  in  the  shape  of  a  human 
profile  and  supported  on  a  stand  or 
base.  The  stand  may  be  dispensed 
with,  however,  and  the  wire  held  in 
the  hand.  In  use,  it  is  placed  near  the 
model  or  person  whose  profile  is  to  be 
drawn ;  then,  after  closing  one  eye,  it 
is  set  at  a  position  where  it  will  cor- 


head  may  recede  from  the  wire  at  the 
top,  or  the  nose  may  have  a  different 
slant  or  shape. 

The  paper  on  which  the  drawing  is 
to  be  made  should  have  a  faint  out- 
line drawn  by  laying  the  wire  upon  it 
and  marking  around  it  with  a  soft  pen- 
cil. Having  noted  the  variations  be- 
tween the  wire  and  the  features, 
proceed  to  draw  the  profile,  observing 
the  same  variations,  and  when  the 
sketch  is  completed,  erase  the  faint 
outlines.  Then  compare  the  drawing 
with  the  model  without  using  the 
wire,  and  make  final  corrections.  The 
dotted  line  indicates  the  outline  to  be 
erased. 

The  drawing  may  be  made  larger  or 
smaller  than  the  bent  wire,  but  the 
outline  on  the  paper  must  be  kept  in 
exactly  the  same  proportion.  It  is  not 
necessary  that  the  wire  be  bent  so  that 
it  represents  perfect  features.  With 
the  use  of  this  device  one  forms  a  habit 
of  comparing  and  proportioning,  which 
applies  to  the  correct  sketching  of  all 
objects. — Contributed  by  Will  L.  Bur- 
ner, Columbus,  Ohio. 


A  Small  Hydroelectric-Power  Plant 

W^herever  a  water  pressure  of  over 
30  lb.  is  available  a  small  hydroelec- 
tric-power plant  will  produce  sufficient 
electric  current  for  any  light  work, 
such  as  charging  storage  batteries, 
operating    sewing    and    washing    ma- 


Section  on  A  A 


11  Drive 


Layout  for  the  Casing.  Cover  and  Wheel  {or  the  Construction  of  a  Hydraulic  Motor  That  wi 
a  Small  Dynamo,  to  Produce  Current  for  Experimental  Purposes,  to  Charge 
Storage  Cells  or  to  Run  Electric  Toys 

respond  to  the  features  of  the  model,  chines,  toys,  etc.     The  design  is  for  a 

This    enables    one   to   note    the   varia-  G-in.    hydraulic    motor    of    the    Pelton 

tions  between  the  wire  and  the  mod-  type,   which   will   operate   well   on   al- 

el's  features.     For  instance,   the  fore-  most  all   city-water  pressures,  and  at 


315 


80  lb.  will  drive  a  100-watt  generator 
to  its  full  output. 

The  castings  may  be  procured  from 
any  foundry  cheaply,  so  that  these 
parts  need  not  trouble  the  builder. 
The  patterns  can  be  constructed  easily 
and  are  not  so  complicated  that  they 
will  tear  the  molds  when  being  re- 
moved. They  are  made  from  well  sea- 
soned white  pine,  i/4  i"-  thick.  Fill  in 
all  sharp  corners  with  small  fillets.  All 
the  patterns  should  taper  slightly  from 
the  parting  line. 

The  motor  casing  is  shown  in  Fig. 
1.  It  is  made  with  a  wide  flange  so 
that  the  cover  plate  can  be  bolted  to 
it.  The  lug  A  is  to  give  additional 
strength  and  thickness  to  the  side  so 
that  it  may  be  drilled  and  tapped  for 
the  nozzle.  The  legs  B  and  C  are  for 
bolting  the  case  to  a  base  or  support. 
The  outlet  pipe  is  of  lead,  1%  in.  out- 
side diameter,  and  the  hole  for  it  in  the 
case  can  be  either  drilled  or  cored. 
Solder  the  pipe  flush  with  the  inside 
of  the  casing.  Drill  and  tap  the  holes 
around  the  flange  for  8,  32  bolts.  The 
shaft  hole  must  be  drilled  very  care- 
fully. Drill  i/4-in-  holes  in  the  feet. 
The  oil  holes  are  %  in.  in  diameter. 
File  the  surface  of  the  flange  smooth 
and  also  the  inside  shoulder  of  the 
bearing  lug.  Drill  and  tap  the  nozzle 
hole  for  a  %-in.  pipe  thread. 

The  cover  plate  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
This  is  bolted  to  the  casing  with  8,  32 
brass  bolts,  1/2  in.  long.  The  holes  for 
them  are  drilled  j^  in.  in  diameter.  A 
shallow  hole,  for  the  end  of  the  shaft 
to  fit  in,  is  drilled  in  the  lug,  as  shown. 


The  Best  Shape  of  the  Buckets  to  Take  Up 
the  Force  of  the  Water 

It  does  not  pass  all  the  way  through 
the  plate.  File  the  inside  face  of  the 
lug  smooth  and  also  the  edge  of  the 
plate  where  it  joins  the  casing. 


The  wheel,  with  brackets  attached, 
is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  This  style  of  wheel 
need  not  be  followed  out  closely. 
Bore    the    hub    centrally    for    a    y^-ln. 


ANCHOR  BOLT 


CONCRETE   FOUNDATION 


The  Motor  as  It  is  Coupled  to  Drive  the  Dynamo, 
and  the  Water  Connections 

shaft  and  fit  in  two  setscrews.  Drill 
and  tap  the  rim  for  the  buckets  with 
a  i/4-in.  standard  tap.  The  buckets 
must  be  evenly  spaced  and  bolted  on 
to  make  the  wheel  balance. 

The  buckets  are  shown  in  Fig.  4. 
They  may  be  cast  from  iron  or  bab- 
bitt. The  sharp  ridge  in  the  center 
provides  for  a  deviation  of  the  water 
jet  as  it  flows  on  the  bucket.  The 
ridge  divides  the  bucket  into  two 
equal  lobes  which  turn  each  division 
of  the  jet  through  almost  180  deg., 
using  all  the  kinetic  energy  in  the  jet. 
This  is  shown  at  D.  The  dividing 
ridge  must  lie  in  the  plane  of  the  rev- 
olution, so  that  each  bucket  will  enter 
the  center  of  the  jet.  The  buckets 
being  evenly  spaced  on  the  periphery 
of  the  wheel,  only  one  at  a  time  re- 
ceives the  force  of  the  jet,  the  one  in 
front  and  the  one  behind  clearing  the 
jet. 

The  nozzle  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  It 
can  be  made  of  iron  or  brass.  The 
inside  gradually  tapers  from  %  to  y\ 
in.  It  has  a  -"^-in.  pipe  thread  and  is 
screwed  into  the  hole  in  the  case  from 
the  inside  and  is  secured  with  a  lock 
nut.  Enough  additional  threaded  por- 
tion is  left  protruding  to  allow  the 
supply  pipe  to  be  connected. 

When  assembling  the  motor,  fasten 
the  wheel  to  the  shaft  with  the  two 
setscrews,  and  place  a  metal  washer, 
E,  on  each  side  of  the  wheel.  Place 
the  wheel  in  the  casing  and  screw  the 


316 


cover  plate  in  place.  A  thin  rubber 
gasket  should  be  placed  between  the 
cover  and  the  casing  to  provide  a 
v/ater-tight  joint. 

The  general  arrangement  of  the 
plant  is  shown  in  Fig.  6.  The  motor 
and  dynamo  are  mounted  on  a  heavy 
wood  base,  which  in  turn  is  firmly 
bolted  to  a  concrete  foundation.    Level 


up  the  two  machines  by  the  use  of  thin 
washers  on  the  bolts  between  the  base 
and  machine.  A  heavy  sleeve  and  set- 
screws  are  used  to  connect  the  two 
shafts.  The  connection  to  the  water 
supply  is  made  with  -^-in.  pipe,  with 
a  globe  valve  in  it  to  regulate  the  flow 
of  water.  Any  dynamo  of  about  100- 
watt  output  can  be  used. 


Paper  Shades  for  Electric-Light  Globes 

The  appearance  of  an  electric-light 
globe  can  be  very  prettily  improved  by 
making  a  shade  of  crepe  paper  of  any 


Two  Pieces  of  Crepe  Paper  Stitched  Together  and 
Ruffled,  to  Make  a  Fancy  Electric-Light  Shade 

desired  color  for  each  one.  Canary- 
colored  crepe  produces  a  soft,  mellow 
effect.  Pale  blue,  yellow,  red  and,  in 
fact,  all  the  colors  can  be  used,  making 
a  very  pleasing  variety. 

The  body  of  the  shade  is  made  of  a 
piece  of  paper  about  51/2  in-  wide  and 
3I/2  ft.  long.  The  width  will  vary  with 
the  length  of  the  globe  to  be  covered, 
and  it  is  best  to  have  it  full,  as  the  edge 
can  be  trimmed  even  with  the  lower 
end  of  the  globe  afterward.  Another 
piece  of  the  same  color  is  cut  3Vi;  in. 
wide  and  of  the  same  length.  This 
piece  makes  the  ruffle. 

The  smaller  piece  is  placed  on  the 
larger  centrally,  and  both  are  stitched 
together  with  a  running  stitch,  using  a 
needle  and  cotton  thread.  A  plain  run- 
ning stitch  is  also  made  1/4  in.  from  one 
edge  of  the  larger  strip.  The  material 
is  gathered  along  both  threads.  This 
operation  makes  the  material  shrink  in 
length.  Wrap  it  around  the  globe, 
pulling  the  threads  taut  so  that  the 
ends  of  the  paper  will  just  meet.  Tie 
the  threads  and  clip  off  the  extending 


ends.  If  the  paper  extends  beyond  the 
end  of  the  globe,  trim  it  off  with 
the  shears.  Ruftfe  the  two  edges  of  the 
narrow  strip  and  the  lower  edge  of  the 
larger  one.  This  operation  is  simply 
stretching  the  edge  of  the  crepe  to 
cause  it  to  stand  out. — Contributed  by 
Jas.  A.  Hart,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Renewing  the  Markings  on  Graduates 

Graduates  that  have  been  in  use  a 
long  time,  especially  for  measuring 
alkalies,  become  unreadable.  The  grad- 
uations are  easily  restored  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner  :  Moisten  a  small  piece 
of  absorbent  cotton  with  a  solution  of 
white  shellac,  cut  in  alcohol.  Rub  this 
well  into  all  the  etched  parts  and  allow 
to  dry  for  about  two  minutes,  then  rub 
in  a  fine  whiting  or  litharge  with  an 
old  toothbrush.  If  red  is  desired,  use 
rouge;  if  black  is  preferred,  use  lamp- 
black or  powdered  graphite.  When 
dry,  wipe  off'  the  excess  pigment  with 
a  cloth  moistened  in  alcohol. — Con- 
tributed by  A.  C.  Norris,  Rockford,  111. 


Repairing  a  Broken  Ball-Clasp  Purse 

Having  occasion  to  repair  a  purse  of 
the  ordinary  ball-clasp  kind  where  one 
of  the  stems  was  broken  off  and  lost, 
I  first  had  some 
trouble    in    find- 
ing    a     way     to 
repair       it.         I 
started    to    take 
off    the    remain- 
ing   stem    in    an 

attempt  to  replace  the  locking  device 
with  another  kind,  and  in  bending  it 
down  toward  the  opposite  side,  I  hap- 


317 


pened  to  close  the  purse  and  found 
that  it  locked  just  as  well  as  if  there 
had  been  two  balls  on  it.  I  have  since 
repaired  two  other  purses  in  the  same 
manner  and  found  that  they  worked 
well. 

The  idea  is  to  bend  the  remaining 
clasp  over  until  it  is  low  enough  to 
come  in  contact  with  and  to  spring 
over  the  other  side,  thus  giving  the 
same  snap  and  holding  qualities  as 
before. — Contributed  by  W.  C.  Loy, 
Rochester,  Ind. 


Automatic  Valve  for  a  Funnel 

Where  liquid  is  run  through  a  fun- 
nel into  an  opaque  bottle  or  earthen 
jug,  the  filling  cannot  be  watched,  and 
if  not  watched  con- 
stantly, the  vessel 
will  overflow.  This 
can  be  obviated  by 
applying  the  auto- 
matic valve  to  the 
funnel  stem,  as 
shown.  A  washer 
support  is  soldered 
or  otherwise  f  a  s- 
tened  in  the  upper 
end  of  the  stem,  or 
at  the  base  of  the 
sloping  part,  and  a 
crossbar  is  fastened  to  its  upper  sur- 
face across  the  hole.  The  crossbar  is 
centrally  drilled  to  receive  a  small  rod 
or  wire,  to  which  is  attached  a  valve 
that  will  cover  the  hole  in  the  washer. 
A  cork  is  stuck  on  the  lower  end  of 
the  rod.  The  location  of  the  cork  on 
the  rod  should  be  at  a  point  a  little  be- 
low the  level  to  which  the  bottle  or 
vessel  is  to  be  filled. — Contributed  by 
H.  W.  Hilton,  Hopington,  B.  C. 


Chisel  Holder  for  Whetting 

To  obtain  the  proper  slope  and  ap- 
ply a  fine  cutting  edge,  the  plane  iron 
or  chisel  must  be  held  at  the  proper 
slope  while  grinding,  and  especially 
so  when  whetting.  The  illustration 
shows  a  holder  to  keep  the  iron  or 
chisel    at    the    proper    slope.      It    con 


sists  of  a  block  of  wood  with  a  sloping 
cut  at  the  right  angle  to  make  two 
pieces.  One  of  these  pieces  is  perma- 
nently fastened  to  the  strip  at  the  back, 


The  Tool  Edge 

is    Kept    at    the 

Proper  Angle  While 

It  is  Run  over  the  Stone 

while  the  other  is  held  with  a  bolt 
passing  through  a  notch  in  the  strip 
for  adjusting  or  clamping.  The  rear 
end  of  the  back  piece  is  fitted  with  a 
large  screw  hook  or  L-hook  to  pro- 
vide a  slide  to  keep  the  rear  end  of  the 
holder  at  the  right  height.  The  iron 
or  chisel  is  inserted  between  the  slop- 
ing edges  of  the  blocks  and  clamped 
in  place,  then  the  L-screw  is  adjusted 
for  height  to  secure  the  proper  angle 
on  the  stone.  It  is  then  only  neces- 
sary to  move  the  block  and  tool  back 
and  forth  over  the  stone. 


A  Large  Hole  in  a  Small  Piece  of 
Paper 

It  would  seem  impossible  to  cut  a 
hole  in  a  piece  of  paper,  3  in.  wide  and 
3  in.  long,  large  enough  to  allow  a 
person's  body  to  pass  through  it,  but 
if  carefully  cut  as  shown  by  the  lines 
in  the  sketch,  one  will  find  with  sur- 
prise that  the  paper  can  be  extended 
so  that  the  feat  is  easily  accomplished. 
Make  the  cuts  about  Yg  in.  apart  and 


The  Slits  Cut  in  the  Paper  Allow  It  to  Expand 
Several  Times  the  Size  of  the  Original 

these  will  allow  the  paper  to  expand 
several  times  its  size. — Contributed  by 
H.  Martine  Warner,  E.  Orange,  N.  J. 


318 


Homemade   Bunsen   Burner 

The  amateur  craftsman,  at  some 
time  or  other,  needs  a  hot  flame  for  cer- 
tain kinds  of  work,  and  a  Bunsen  or 


Bunsen-Burner  Attachment  for  Use  with  Illuminating 
Gas  Taken  from  the  House  Mains 

alcohol  flame  is  brought  into  service. 
The  gasoline  and  alcohol  flames  have 
their  drawbacks,  one  of  which  is  the 
starting  of  the  burner  and  the  waiting 
for  the  heat.  They  are  also  unhandy 
in  directing  the  flame  on  parts  of  the 
work.  As  I  desired  a  burner  for  quick 
work  and  one  whose  flame  I  could  di- 
rect at  any  angle,  for  repousse  and 
chasing  on  copper  and  silversmith's 
work,  I  made  the  one  shown  in  the 
sketch  to  attach  to  a  hose  and  con- 
nected it  with  the  gas  pipe  of  the  il- 


luminating system  in  the  house.  It 
consists  of  a  hose  connection  into 
which  a  piece  of  pipe,  5  in.  long,  is 
fitted.  The  hose  connection  is  also 
fitted  with  a  small  nozzle.  A,  for  the 
gas,  and  the  pipe  has  an  opening 
through  it  at  the  end  of  the  nozzle. — • 
Contributed  by  John  Koestner,  Brook- 
lyn, N.  Y. 


Cane-Seat  Cleaner 

A  rapid  and  practical  method  of  re- 
moving stains  and  discolorations  from 
the  cane  seats  of  chairs,  wickerwork, 
etc.,  is  to  use  oxalic  acid  and  powdered 
pumice. 

Dissolve  oxalic-acid  crystals  in  hot 
water  and  saturate  a  small  stifif  brush 
in  it,  then  dip  the  brush  in  the  pow- 
dered pumice  and  rub  the  discolored 
cane  briskly  with  the  brush. — Contrib- 
uted by  W.  F.  Jaquythe,  Richmond, 
California. 


Shade-Roller  and   Curtain-Pole 
Bracket 

The  main  advantage  of  this  shade 
bracket  is  that  a  person  can  lower  it 
for  adjusting  the  shade  or  in  changing 


curtains  while  standing  on  the  floor, 
thus  eliminating  the  use  of  a  step  lad- 
der and  the  danger  possibly  attending 
such  use. 

The  front  elevation  of  a  window 
with  bracket  attachment  in  position  is 

shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  a  cross  section 

in  Fig.  2.  The  position  of  the  cur- 
tain pole  when  the  brackets  are  low- 
ered is  shown  by  the  dotted  lines.  A 
detail  sketch  of  the  support  end  is 
given  in  Fig.  3  and  one  bracket  is 
shown  in  Fig.  4. 

The   curtain   pole   A   is   fastened   to 

1     the    brackets    B    with 

'.    i/i-in.   dowel  pins,   C. 


Fig.  I  Fid  2 

The  Brackets  as  They   are  Attached  to  a  Window 
Casing  for  Lowering  the  Curtain  Pole 


Fis,3  pio.4 

The  Attachments.  Supports  and   Brackets   for  Holding 
both  Curtain  Pole  and  Shade  Roller 


319 


These  pins  and  the  pole  keep  the  brack- 
ets from  spreading  at  the  top,  so  that  a 
shade  roller,  D,  may  have  its  attach- 
ments fastened  to  the  inner  sides  of  the 
brackets.  A  small  pulley,  E,  is  at- 
tached to  the  window  casing  above  the 
right  bracket  and  a  double  pulley  is 
located  above  the  left,  cords  being 
passed  through  them,  down  along  the 
casing  to  a  point  within  easy  reach, 
and  fastened  in  any  manner  desired. 

All  that  is  necessary  to  change  the 
curtains  or  fix  a  shade  is  to  loosen  the 
cord  and  allow  the  brackets  to  drop 
down  until  they  may  be  easily  reached. 
— Contributed  by  James  F.  Napier, 
Montreal,  Can. 


Planing   Arrow    Sticks 

While  making  some  bows  one  day 
I  discovered  I  had  no  suitable  dowel 
sticks  for  the  arrows,  so  I  started  to 
make  them  out  of  Vi-'m.  square  stock. 
I  found  it  rather  difficult  to  plane  these 
pieces    until    I    hit    upon    the   scheme 


Planing   the    Corners   from  Square  Stock  by  Placing 
Them  in  the  Groove  of  a  Flooring  Board 

shown  in  the  sketch.  I  procured  a 
piece  of  ordinary  tongue-and-groove 
flooring  and  clamped  it  in  the  bench 
vise,  then  drove  a  nail  in  the  groove  to 
act  as  a  stop,  and  in  no  time  I  had  the 
sticks  planed  into  arrows. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  F.  Culverwell,  Washington, 
District  of  Columbia. 


To  Clean  Shellac  from  a  Brush 

Put  the  brush  in  a  strong,  warm 
solution  of  borax  and  water,  and  then 
wash  in  clean,  warm  water.  If  the 
bristles  have  become  hard,  allow  the 
brush  to  remain  in  the  solution  until 
soft,  keeping  the  solution  warm  in  the 
meantime ;  then  wash  it  out  in  warm 
water. — Contributed  by  N.  J.  Shat- 
tuck,  Woburn,  Mass. 


Lathe  Dogs 

In  the  absence  of  a  full  equipment 
of  lathe  dogs  the  amateur  can  make 
them  cheaply  from  pieces  of  iron  pipe. 


^^ 


"^^ 


Two  Forma  of  Lathe  Dogs  That  are  Quickly 
and  Cheaply  Constructed 

One  of  these  is  shown  in  the  sketch. 
A  section  of  pipe,  1^2  in.  to  3  in.  long, 
is  partly  cut  away,  as  shown,  leaving 
a  projection  of  metal  1  in.  wide.  One 
or  more  setscrev^s  are  fitted  in  the 
round  part,  and  the  dog  is  complete. 
A  dog,  or  driver,  may  also  be  made 
of  two  U-clamps  and  two  bolts  as 
shown.  This  is  especially  useful  for 
large  work,  where  the  cost  of  a  dog 
would  be  prohibitive.  After  these  two 
clamps  are  bolted  on  the  work  to  be 
turned  a  bolt  is  attached  in  the  face- 
plate that  bears  against  the  clamp,  thus 
turning  the  work. 


To  Remove  a  Splinter  from  the  Flesh 

Quite  frequently  small  particles  of 
steel,  splinters,  or  thorns  are  run  into 
the  flesh  and  cannot  be  removed  with 
the  fingers.  These  can  be  readily  re- 
moved in  the  following  manner :  Press 
the  eye  of  an  ordinary  needle  over  the 
protruding  end,  then  turn  the   needle 

'^^^ 

FLESH 


The  Eye  of  a  Needle  Slipped  over  a  Thorn 
for  Removing  It  from  the  Flesh 

until  the  edges  bind  or  clinch.  While 
in  this  position,  raise  the  needle  and 
out  comes  the  splinter. 


CA  fine  luster  can  be  given  to  zinc  by 
rubbing  it  with  kerosene  or  a  weak 
solution  of  sulphuric  acid. 


320 


Holders  for  Displaying  Magazines 

Papers  and  magazines  often  are 
sold  in  drug  stores  where  tlie  display 
space  usually  is 
1  i  m  i  ted,  espe- 
cially in  the 
window.  The 
method  used  by 
one  druggist 
gave  space  for 
the  magazines 
in  the  window 
without  interfer- 
ing with  the 
other  goods. 
The  back  of  the  window  was  arranged 
with  rows  of  hooks,  three  hooks  for 
each  magazine,  two  at  the  top  edges 
and  one  in  the  center  at  the  bottom. 
The  magazine  is  easily  slipped  into 
these  holders,  and  the  whole  presents 
a  tidy  appearance.  The  hooks  are  the 
ordinary  screwhooks  that  can  be  ob- 
tained from  a  hardware  or  furniture 
store. — Contributed  by  T.  F.  Mona- 
ghan,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


the  sensitive  paper  before  it  is  printed 
under  the  negative,  being  careful  not 
to  scratch  the  paper.  After  printing 
the  paper  to  the  proper  shade  the  ton- 
ing and  fixing  baths  will  wash  away 
the  ink  and  leave  the  lettering  in  white. 
The  lettering  is  easily  accomplished 
and  a  post  card  can  be  sent  with  any 
message  desired  on  any  negative,  the 
inscription  being  printed  on  the  paper 
so  that  the  negative  is  unharmed  for 
other  printing. — Contributed  by  Henry 
J.   Marion,   Pontiac,   Mich. 


Waste-Paper  Basket 

The  covering  of  a  broken  demijohn 
was  used  in  the  manner  shown  as  a 
waste  -  paper 
basket.  The 
glass  was  broken 
out  and  the  cov- 
ering soaked  in 
water,  after 
which  the  splints 
were  turned 
down  and  tied 
with  a  cord.  This  I  found  to  make  a 
first-class  waste-paper  basket.  —  Con- 
tributed by  A.  S.  Thomas,  Gordon, 
Canada. 


Lettering   Photographs 

Amateur  photographers  often  write, 
or  print,  the  names  of  the  subjects  on 
the  mounts,  or  in  the  albums,  with 
white  ink  or  scratch  it  on  the  negative 
so  that  it  will  print  in  the  picture. 

A  very  good  method  is  to  take  ordi- 
nary black  ink  and  do  the  lettering  on 


A  Stamp  Moistener 

A  handy  stamp  moistener  and  envel- 
ope sealer  can  be  made  by 
procuring  a  small  medicine 
bottle  or  glass  vial  and  in- 
serting a  piece  of  felt  or 
other  wicking  material  in  the 
place  of  the  stopper,  and  fill- 
ing it  with  water. 

This  moistener  will  be 
found  handy  for  a  small 
office  where  the  mail  is  quite 
heavy,  but  not  big  enough  to 
warrant  the  purchasing  of  a 
' i^l-  'ft'  sealing  machine.  This  moist- 
ener is  sanitary  and  replaces 

the  wet  sponge. — Contrilnited  by  Theo. 

J.  Becker,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 


A  Window  Lock 

A  very  neat  window  lock  can  be 
made  of  sheet  steel,  I'-j  in.  wide.  One 
piece,  shaped 
like  a  saw  tooth, 
is  fastened  to  the 
sash,  and  the 
other,  which  is 
bent  to  form  a 
catch  over  the  U^^^J^ 
tooth,  projection  {_ZZ-^ 
and  ends  in  a 
curved  top  for  a  finger  hold,  is  attached 
to  the  window  casing.  The  illustra- 
tion clearly  shows  how  the  lock  is  at- 
tached.— Contributed  by  Lee  B.  Green, 
Cleveland,  O. 


C Georgia   pine    should   be   filled   with 
white  shellac. 


331 


Varnished  Candles  Burn  Longer 

The  heated  tallow  or  wax  of  a  candle 
runs  down  the  sides  and  this  results 
in  a  considerable  waste.  This  waste 
can  be  stopped  by  coating  the  new 
candles  with  white  varnish  and  laying 
them  aside  for  a  few  days  to  harden. 
The  varnish  will  keep  the  melted  tal- 
low or  wax  from  running  away  and  it 
is  used  in  the  wick. 


Guides  for  a  Mill  File 

Having  a  large  number  of  wires  to 
file  true  on  the  end  I  devised  a  way 
to  do  this  with  the  use  of  some  old 
worn-out  and  discarded  files  that  had 
good  cutting  edges.  A  piece  of  sheet 
copper,  about  the  same  length  as  the 
files,  was  bent  to  fit  over  one  edge  and 
both  sides  of  the  file,  allowing  both 
edges  to  project  about  14  '"•  This 
made  a  guide  that  prevented  the  edge 
of  the  file  from  slipping  off  the  end  of 


bored  in  the  end  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose. Be  sure  to  have  the  diameter  of 
the  drum  l-^j.  inches. 


Guide  for  Using  the  Edge  of  Worn-Out  Files 
on  Small  Round  or  Square  Stock 

the  wire.  The  guide  was  held  in  place 
on  the  file  by  cutting  a  slit  in  the  pro- 
jecting edges,  about  14  in.  from  the 
end,  and  turning  these  separated  parts 
back  on  the  file. 

If  such  a  guide  is  fitted  tightly  on  a 
file,  the  edges  of  worn-out  files  can  be 
used  for  such  work,  and  the  file  cannot 
slip  oiT  and  mar  the  sides  of  the  work. 
— Contributed  by  A.  R.  Drury,  Hamp- 
ton, 111. 


A  Simple  Motion-Picture  Machine 

The  drum  A  is  a  piece  of  wood,  1% 
in.  long  and  l^^  in.  in  diameter,  sup- 
ported on  the  end  of  a  round  stick,  B, 
which  can  be  made  in  one  piece  with 
the  drum,  if  a  wood  lathe  is  at  hand, 
but  a  piece  cut  from  a  curtain  pole 
and   a   lead   pencil   inserted   in   a   hole 


The  Parts  tor  Making  the  Revolving  Drum 
lor  Holding  the  Strip  of  Pictures 

Provide  a  base  piece,  C,  Y^  in.  thick 
and  2  in.  square,  and  fasten  a  piece  of 
cardboard  having  a  slit  E,  as  shown. 
The  cardboard  should  be  2  in.  wide 
and  21/2  in-  high,  the  slit  being  cut  % 
in.  in  width,  1/4  in.  from  the  top  and 
%  in.  from  the  bottom.  A  hole  is 
bored  in  the  center  of  the  block  to 
admit  the  standard  B  easily. 

The  next  step  is  to  provide  the  pic- 
ture and  attach  it  to  the  drum.  A  pic- 
ture of  a  boy  pounding  cobblestones  is 
shown  in  the  sketch,  at  F,  which  should 
be  made  on  a  strip  of  paper  4%  in. 
long.  This  is  gli;ed  or  attached  with 
rubber  bands  to  the  drum.  The  draw- 
ing can  be  enlarged  in  pen  and  ink,  or 
can  be  reproduced  as  it  is,  if  a  hand 
camera  is  at  hand,  and  a  print  used  on 
the  drum. 


The  Different  Positions  of  the  Picture  will  Appear 
in  Action  When  Turning  with  the  Drum 

It  is  only  necessary  to  put  the  parts 
together,  grasp  the  base  in  one  hand 
and  turn  the  support  B  with  the  other, 
when,  looking  through  the  slot  E,  the 
boy  is  seen  pounding  the  stones.  Va- 
rious pictures  can  be  made  and  the 
strips  changed. — Contributed  by  C.  C. 
Fraser,  Saginaw,  Mich 


322 


Substitute  for  Cleats  on  Boards 

The  necessity  for  using  more  than 
one  cleat  for  fastening  two  boards  to- 
gether may  be  done  away  with  by 
using  the  device  shown  in  the  sketch. 
The  center  cleat  prevents  the  boards 
from  buckling  while  the  sides  are 
tightly  held  by  these  simple  flat  fasten- 
ers. The  fasteners  are  made  of  tin  cut 
as  indicated,  slipped  between  the  edges 
of  the  boards  and  the  parts  bent  over 
and  tacked.     Where  the  strain  is  not 


The  Metal  Clips  Hold  the  Edges  of  the  Boards 
Together  Closely  and  Quite  Rigidly 

too  great  the  holders  may  be  used 
without  a  cleat,  making  an  effective 
flat  fastening. — Contributed  by  W.  O. 
Nettleton,  Washington,  D.  C. 


Attaching  Door  Knobs  to  Locks 

WHien  putting  a  lock  on  a  door  it  is 
often  difficult  to  press  the  two  knobs 
together  tightly  enough  to  prevent 
them  from  rattling  and  still  be  alile 
to  insert  the  screw  into  the  shank.  By 
using  a  piece  of  board,  1  in.  thick,  fi  in. 
wide  and  1  ft.  or  more  in  length,  with 
a  V-shaped  piece  cut  out  of  one  side. 


The  Sloping  Edges  in  the  Notch  Forces  the 

Knobs  Together  and  Holds  Them  While 

Inserting  the  Screws 

the  knobs  can  be  easily  forced  and  held 
together  while  the  screw  is  inserted. — • 
Contributed  by  H.  Musgrave,  Sidney, 
British  Columbia. 


A  Finger-Nail  Buffer 

The  flywheel  on  a  sewing  machine 
is  usually  turned  with  a  semicircular 
face  and  this  makes  a  good  base  on 
which  to  apply  a  piece  of  chamois  skin 


for  use  in  bufifing  nails.  A  strip  of  the 
chamois  is  cut  the  length  of  the  wheel's 
circumference  and  small  holes  pierced 


A  Strip  of  Chamois  Skin  Attiched  to  the  Flywheel 
of  a  Sewing  Machine  for  a  Buffer 

in  its  edges,  through  which  strings  are 
run  to  hold  it  to  the  rim  of  the  wheel. 
The  chamois  can  then  be  removed  or 
left  on  the  wheel  as  desired.  Run  the 
machine  and  hold  the  nail  on  the  buffer. 
When  there  is  a  free  wheel  on  the 
machine  this  makes  an  e.xcellent  buf- 
fing device. 


Grinding  Chisel  Edges 

A  cold  chisel  ground  with  a  round- 
ing edge,  as  shown,  will  last  twice  as 
long  and  do  bet- 
ter work  than 
one  that  is 
ground  straight, 
because  it  will 
not  wedge,  and 
the  cutting  edge, 
having  a  better 
support,  will  not 

chip  oft'. — Contributed  by  F.   G.  Mar- 
bach,  Cleveland,  O. 


Reducing   Amperage  of  a  Fuse   Wire 

It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  use  an 
electrical  fuse  of  smaller  amperage 
than  those  at  hand,  and  for  experi- 
mental work  this  is  often  the  case.  A 
smaller  amperage  may  be  readily  made 
from  a  larger-size  wire  by  making  a 
nick  in  it  with  the  cutting  edge  of 
pliers,  or  with  a  knife.  The  illustra- 
tion shows  how  to  reduce  the  size  of 


10  AMPERES 


5  AMPERES 


The  Amperes  of  a  Fuse  Reduced  by  Makiag  a 
Nick  in  the  Lead  Wire 

a  10-ampere  fuse  to  make  it  five  am- 
peres.— Contributed  by  Louis  Litsky. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


323 


Dip-Plating  Process 

The  various  ways  of  doing  dip  plat- 
ing are  practically  the  same  method, 
the  coating  fluid  consisting  of  essen- 
tially the  same  materials. 

The  tank  or  crucible,  as  it  may  be 
called,  consists  of  a  piece  of  3-in.  gas 
pipe,  9  in.  long,  threaded  at  both  ends, 
one  end  being  fitted  with  a  screw  cap 
and  the  other  with  a  pipe  flange.  This 
part  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  A  piece  of 
sheet  metal  is  cut  in  the  shape  shown 
in  Fig.  2  and  bent  to  form  a  cone,  so 
that  the  smaller  end  will  fit  snugly 
around  the  pipe  and  the  base  be  9  in. 
in  diameter.  The  joined  edges  are 
riveted  together.  The  assembled  parts 
will  appear  as  shown  in  Fig.  3. 

The  metal  used  for  plating  consists 
of  bismuth,  4  oz. ;  antimony,  4  oz.,  and 
pure  block  tin,  10  lb.  Place  the  anti- 
mony in  the  crucible  and  melt  it,  then 
add  the  tin  and  bismuth.  A  flame  from 
an  ordinary  gasoline  burner  will  be 
sufficient  to  heat  the  crucible. 

Clean  the  article  to  be  coated  by 
rinsing  it  in  strong  caustic  potash, 
which  will  remove  all  grime  and 
grease,  then  dip  it  in.  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  sal  ammoniac  and  water.  Dry 
it  and  then  dip  it  in  the  melted  metal, 
allowing  it  to  remain  there  about  1 
minute,  then  remove  and  plunge  it  in 
a  bath  made  of  1  lb.  of  sal  ammoniac 


Fia.J 


The  Parts  to  Make  the  Crucible  Consist  of  Pipe 
and  Fittings  and  a  Piece  of  Sheet  Metal 

and  1  gal.  of  water.    The  article  is  then 
dried  in  sawdust. 

The  cc)ating  put  on  in  this  manner 
is  a  nice,  shiny  plate  that  will  stand  a 
lot  of  wear.  No  polishing  or  grinding 
is  necessary. — Contributed  by  A.  H. 
Waychofif,  Lyons,  Colo. 


A  Model  Steam-Turbine  Boat 

A  piece  of  thin  board,  or  shingle,  is 
cut  to  the  shape  of  a  boat  and  two 
standards  are  fastened  to  it.  The  stand- 
ards have  notches  cut  in  them  to  hold 


Model  Turbine 
Boat  Using  a 
Baking-  Powder 
Can  for  a  Boiler 
with  Candles  as 
Fuel 


an  ordinary  baking-powder  can  which 
is  used  for  the  boiler.  The  lid  of  the 
can  is  soldered  on,  and  a  small  hole 
punched  in  one  side  with  an  awl.  Two 
candles  are  used  to  heat  the  water. 

The  turbine  is  constructed  on  an 
axle  made  of  a  hatpin  which  runs 
through  the  top  of  the  standards  for 
bearings.  The  paddles  are  made  of 
cardboard,  or  better  still,  pieces  of  thin 
sheet  tin,  cut  and  bent  as  shown  at  A, 
and  three  of  these  are  attached  to  a 
three-cornered  block  of  wood  fastened 
to  the  shaft,  as  shown  at  B.  The  man- 
ner of  attaching  the  shaft  for  the  pro- 
peller is  shown  at  C.  The  propeller  con- 
sists of  a  piece  of  tin,  slightly  twisted 
and  attached  to  the  shaft  with  solder. 
The  pulleys  are  located  as  shown  and 
connected  with  a  string  band.  The  hole 
made  in  the  can  should  be  pointed  to 
one  side  of  the  turbine  shaft  so  that  the 
escaping  steam  will  strike  one  side  of 
the  paddles  on  the  turbine. — Contrib- 
uted by  McKinley  Wood,  Ava,  N.  Y. 


324 


Plant  Shelf  for  a  Window 

An  ingenious  and  simple  method  of 
putting  up  window  shelves  for  winter 
plants  so  that  the  window  casing  and 


^ 


^ 


The  Shelf  is  Hung  on  Wires  Attached   to   Screweyes 
Placed  in  the  Facing  Edge 

facing  are  not  marred  is  shown  in  the 
sketch.  The  materials  required  are 
one  shelf,  about  8  in.  wide,  lU,  yd.  of 
picture  wire,  two  screweyes,  two  fence 
staples,  and  two  strips  of  wood,  to  raise 
the  shelf  slightly  from  the  window  sill. 
The  board  for  the  shelf  is  cut  to  fit  the 
window  frame  and  casing.  The  pic- 
ture wire,  screweyes  and  staples  are 
attached  as  shown.  When  cleaning  the 
window  the  shelf  can  be  drawn  out  of 
the  way. — Contributed  by  H.  C.  Dixon, 
Johnstown,  Pa. 


A  Camera  Support 

A  device  which,  in  many  instances, 
will  take  the  place  of  a  tripod,  can  be 
made  of  a  brass  wood  screw  and  can 
be  carried  in  the  pocket  as  easily  as  a 
pencil.    The  screw  should  be  3  or  4  in. 


Substitute  for  a  Camera  Tripod  That  can  be  Carried 
in  the  Pocket  Like  a  Pencil 

long  and  14  in.  in  diameter.  Cut  off 
the  head  and  thread  the  end  about  1/. 
in.    to    fit   the    socket    in    the    camera. 


Drill  a  Vg-'n.  hole  through  the  metal 
just  below  the  threaded  part  and  insert 
a  short  piece  of  i/g-in.  wire.  Slip  a 
washer  over  the  end,  down  to  the  wire, 
and  fasten  it  with  solder. 

The  device  can  be  turned  into  a  tree, 
post  or  a  stick  thrust  into  the  ground," 
and  the  camera  screwed  onto  it  and  ad- 
justed to  any  angle.— Contributed  by 
O.  D.  Turner,  Seattle,  Wash. 


Combination  Tool  for  Amateur 
Draftsmen 

A  common  6-in.  mill  file  can  be  con- 
verted into  a  very  useful  tool  for  an 
amateur  draftsman.  Grind  the  end  of 
the  file  as  shown  in  the  sketch  and  use 
it  for  prying  out  thumbtacks  that  are 
driven  in  too 'tightly.  Grind  the  base 
of  the  tang  into  a  knife  blade  for  sharp- 
ening pencils,  shaving  chalk,  opening 
envelopes,  etc.  Shape,  by  careful 
grinding,  the  part  A  for  cutting  and 
trimming  sheets.  Grind  one  edge  of 
the  file  round  and  polish  it  for  smooth- 
ing and  burnishing  purposes.  Grind 
a    sharp    point   on    the    tang    for    per- 


A  Tool  Made  of  a  File  Combining  Several  Tools 
Which  are  Used  by  a  Draftsman 

forating  sheets.  A  piece  of  rubber 
stuck  on  the  tang  end  answers  the 
double  purpose  of  a  protector  and 
eraser.  The  file  part  is  used  for 
finishing  points  on  pencils. 


Varnishing  Bases  for  Electric 
Apparatus 

It  is  quite  difiicult  to  keep  from  mak- 
ing finger  marks  on  freshly  varnished 
boards  used  as  bases  on  electric  devices. 
It  is  easily  avoided,  however,  by  pro- 
curing a  large  spool  and  fastening  it 
to  the  bottom  of  the  base  with  a  wood 
screw.  The  spool  will  serve  as  a  handle 
while  the  varnish  is  applied,  and  also 
makes  a  stand  for  the  board  while  the 
varnish  dries. — Contributed  by  Jacob 
Laudan,  Louisville,  Ky. 


325 


Waterproof  Shoe  Dressing 

Melt  some  tallow  and,  while  it  is  hot, 
put  in  some  scraps  of  rubber  from  old 
rubber  shoes  or  boots.  Be  careful  to 
select  rubber  that  is  free  from  cloth. 
Put  in  as  much  of  the  rubber  as  the  tal- 
low will  absorb.  Stir  freely  while  it  is 
melting,  and  keep  it  away  from  any 
flames.  Allow  it  to  cool  and  set  away 
for  future  use.  Take  enough  for  imme- 
diate use  and  warm  it  sufficiently  so 
that  it  may  be  applied  with  a  brush. — 
Contributed  by  F.  S.  Cummings,  De- 
troit, Mich. 


An  Adjustable  Bench  Stop 

A  simple  adjustal)le  bench  stop  for 
light  work  may  be  made  from  a  piece 
of  1-in.  broom  handle  and  a  piece  of 
piano  wire.  Plane  a  flat  surface  on  the 
broom  stick  and  drill  two  iV-in.  holes, 
about  14  in.  deep,  i/i  hi.  from  each  end. 
Bend  the  ends  of  the  wire  to  enter  the 
holes  and  have  the  wire  of  such  length 
as  to  give  it  a  slight  curve  between 


The  Spring  Wire  will  Hold  the  Stop  at  Any  Desired 
Position  for  Height 

the   ends   when   it   is  in   place   on   the 
stick. 

Bore  a  1-in.  hole  through  the  bench 
top  where  it  is  desired  to  use  the  stop 
and  cut  several  grooves,  as  shown,  in 
the  walls  of  the  hole  with  a  compass 
saw.  The  spring  wire  will  slide  into  a 
groove  and  hold  the  stick  wherever  it 
is  set.  The  position  of  the  face  can  be 
changed  by  inserting  the  stick  so  that 
the  wire  will  enter  the  right  groove. — 
Contributed  by  Alan  H.  Andrews,  Fall 
River,  Mass. 


A  Crochet  Hook 

In  making  some  kinds  of  lace  work 
diflferent-sized  hooks  must  be  used  as 
the  work  proceeds.  Considerable  time 
will  be  lost  in  changing  from  one  hook 
to  another,  if  they  are  separate.     The 


best  way  is  to  mount  all  the  hooks 
necessary  on  one  handle,  as  shown  in 
the  sketch.  The  handle  part  is  made 
of  a  large  wire  or  small  rod,  bent  to  the 

(T))       (H) 


D 


A  Crochet-Hook  Handle  for  Holding  Several  Hooks 
That  are  Required  for  Some  Lace  Work 

shape  shown  and  w4th  holes  drilled 
through  the  ends  for  a  small  rivet. 
The  ends  of  the  hooks  are  drilled  or 
bent  to  fit  on  the  rivet.  A  small  tin 
ferrule  is  made  to  slip  over  the  handle 
and  the  hooks  not  in  use.  All  hooks 
but  the  one  in  use  are  turned  back  into 
the  handle  and  the  ferrule  slipped  into 
place. — Contributed  by  Miss  Nita  S. 
Ingle,  W.  Toledo,  O. 


Writing  Board  for  Children 

A  writing  desk  for  a  child  can  be 
easily  made  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
The  materials  necessary  are  a  board  of 
suitable  size,  two  screwhooks,  four 
screweyes  and  a  pair  of  rods  for  braces. 
The  hooks  are  screwed  into  the  back 
of  a  chair  and  the  screweyes  into  the 
board,  as  shown.  This  desk  is  in- 
stantly attached  or  taken  down  when 
desired.     If  the  chair  is  light  and  apt 


The  Writing  Board  is  Easily  Attached  to,  or 
Detached  from,  an  Ordinary  Chair  Back 

to  tip  over,  make  the  rods  long  enough 
to  reach  to  the  floor. — Contributed  by 
John  V.  Loeffler,  Evansville,  Ind. 


326 


Geometric  Principle  in  Line  Division 

When  sketching  a  plan,  if  any  one  of 
the  first  few  lines  drawn  is  found  to  be 
the  proper  length,  then  this  line  can  be 

A-r— ; . . ; . , . :^ ' ' .B 


A  Scale  can  be 
Made  for  Use  on  Any 
Sized  Sketch  or  Drawing 


•  :  :  I  ■  I 


made  into  a  scale  by  the  geometric  rule 
for  dividing  a  given  line  into  equal 
parts. 

Suppose,  for  example,  the  line  AB, 
which  is  to  represent  12  ft.,  is  found  to 
be  1  ft.  long.  Draw  a  line,  AC,  at  any 
angle  from  the  point  A  and  step  off  on 
it  12  equal  parts,  beginning  at  A.  The 
last  point,  or  the  one  at  C,  is  connected 
to  the  end  B,  then  eleven  other  lines 
are  drawn  parallel  with  CB.  Thus 
AB  will  make  a  scale  of  1  in.  to  each 
1  ft.— Contributed  by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


Repairing  a  Broken  Whip 

Procure  a  piece  of  thin  tin — the 
metal  taken  from  a  discarded  fruit  can 
will  do — and  cut  it  about  2i/o  in.  long 
and  wide  enough  to  encircle  the  break. 
Notch  the  ends  like  saw  teeth  and 
remove  any  sharp  edges  with  a  file. 
Place  the  tin  on  the  break  and  tie 
temporarily.  Wind  the  whole  from 
end  to  end  with  a  waxed  linen  thread, 
such  as  used  by  harness  makers.  The 
threads  lying  alternately  on  the  whip 
and  on  metal  at  the  notched  ends  elimi- 
nate any  possibility  of  the  parts  work- 
ing loose.  A  break  near  the  small  and 
flexible  end  of  a  whip  is  repaired  in 
the  same  manner,  using  a  quill  instead 


The  Repair  on  a  Whip  Made  with  a  Notched 
Ferrule  and  a  Waxed  Thread 

of  the  tin.  In  either  case,  do  not  let 
the  edges  of  the  splicing  material  meet, 
and  it  will  clamp  tightly  on  the  whip. 
—Contributed  by  W.  S.  Kingsley,  W. 
Gouldsboro,  Me. 


Repairing  a  Worn  Thimble 

Silver  thimbles  are  easily  worn 
through  at  the  end,  and  they  can  be 
quickly  repaired  by  soldering  from  the 
inside.  A  very  neat  repair  can  be  made 
with  an  alcohol  lamp  and  a  blowpipe 
by  using  a  little  s-ilver  solder.  Borax  or 
resin  is  used  as  a  flux. 


A  Small  Torch 

A  small  torch,  that  will  give  a  very 
fine  and  hot  smokeless  flame,  can  be 
made  from  a  piece  of  glass  tube,  about 
4  in.  long,  and  4  ft.  of  rubber  tubing. 
The  sflass  tube  is  heated  in  the  center 


A  Torch  Made  of  Glass  and  Rubber  Tubing,  to  be 
Used  on  an  Ordinary  Gas  Jet 

until  it  is  red,  then  the  ends  drawn 
apart  so  that  the  tube  will  have  a  small 
diameter.  After  the  glass  has  cooled, 
make  a  small  scratch  with  a  file  on  the 
thin  part  and  break  it.  One  of  the 
pointed  ends  is  connected  to  a  straight 
piece  of  glass  tube  with  a  short  piece 
of  the  rubber  tube,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  A  small  hole  is  cut  in  the  side 
of  the  piece  of  rubber  to  admit  air  to 
the  gas.  The  torch  is  connected  to  an 
ordinary  gas  jet. — Contributed  by  E. 
K.  Marshall,  Oak  Park,  111. 


Fountain  Attachment  for  an  Ordinary 

Pen 

A  quite  efficient  fovmtain  pen  may  be 
quickly  made  by  bending  an  ordinary 


The  Space  between  the  Pens  Forms  the  Fountain, 
Which  is  Sufficient  for   Considerable  Wiiting 

pen,  as  shown  at  A,  and  inserting  it  in 
the  holder  opposite  to  the  regular  pen, 
as  shown  at  B.  For  best  results,  the 
point  of  the  auxiliary  pen  should  just 
touch  the  regular  pen. — Contributed  by 
Thos.  L.  Parker,  \\'ibaux,  Mont. 


CA  little  water  added  to  oil  paint  will 
make  a  flat  or  lusterless  finish  and  will 
do  no  harm  to  the  paint,  as  the  water 
evaporates  in  time. 


327 


Homemade  Cut  Press 


The  person  who  has  a  little  ability 
in  making  wood  cuts  with  a  knife  will 
find  it  very  interesting  to  make  the 
press  shown  in  the  sketch.  A  fair  job 
of  printing  can  be  done  with  the  press, 
using  printer's  ink  spread  on  a  piece 
of  glass  with  a  hand  ink  roller,  such  as 
can  be  purchased  cheaply  of  any  dealer 
in  printing  supplies. 

The  press  may  have  a  base,  A,  of  any 
size  to  suit,  but  one  ly^  in.  thick,  6 
in.  wide,  and  12  in.  long  will  be  found 
to  serve  best  for  most  purposes.  It 
must  be  smooth  and  level.  Hard  wood, 
such  as  maple,  beech,  or  birch,  is  best 
for  all  parts.  The  post  B  is  li/4  in. 
thick,  2  in.  wide,  and  5  in.  long.  Be- 
fore setting  it,  slot  the  upper  end  for 
the  end  of  the  lever.  This  is  done  by 
making  a  saw  cut,  1%  in.  deep,  %  in. 
from  either  side  and  cutting  out  the 
core  to  make  a  slot  %  in.  wide.  A 
i/4-in.  hole  is  then  bored  through  the 
prongs  to  receive  a  stove  bolt  that 
connects  them  with  the  lever.  The 
post  is  fastened  with  screws  and  glue 
in  a  notch  cut  in  the  center  of  the  base 
end. 

The  lever  C  is  made  of  a  piece  of 
wood  1/4  in.  square  and  10  in.  long. 
At  the  forward  end  the  sides  are  pared 
away  to  form  a  tongue,  or  tenon,  that 
will  pass  between  the  prongs  of  the 
upright,  and  a  hole  is  bored  through  it 
to  match  those  in  the  prongs.  The  en- 
tire upper  surface  of  the  lever  is  round- 
ed and  the  under  surface  is  rounded, 
beginning  6  in.  from  the  tenon  end. 
Glue  to  the  under  side  of  the  lever  a 
block,  D,  at  the  end  of  the  under,  flat 
surface.  The  block  should  be  about 
11/4  m.  square  by  1^;  in.  long.     If  the 


under  side  of  the  base  is  crowning, 
either  level  it  with  a  plane  or  nail 
cleats  across  the  ends  for  feet.  A 
washer  is  used  with  the  stove  bolt  in 
connecting  the  lever  and  post. 

The  cuts  are  made  of  small  blocks 


A  Hand  Press  for  Printing  from  Cuts  Made  of  Wood, 
Using  Ordinary  Printer's  Ink 

of  wood,  about  %  in.  thick  and  of  a 
size  to  take  the  characters  desired. 
These  blocks  must  be  level  and  the 
printing  side  made  smooth  with  very 
fine  sandpaper,  or  a  scraper,  before  the 
characters  are  laid  out.  Boxwood  is 
best  for  cuts,  but  pearwood,  ap- 
plewood,  birch,  or  maple  will  do  very 
well.  Mark  out  the  characters  back- 
ward, using  the  pencil  very  lightly. 
Then,  with  the  small  blade  of  a  knife, 
made  as  sharp  as  possible,  cut  around 
the  outlines,  holding  the  knife  slant- 
ing, and  remove  the  adjacent  wood  by 
cutting  in  at  a  reverse  angle  to  meet 
the  boundary  cut.  Gradually  deepen 
the  cuts  around  the  characters  until 
they  stand  in  relief  about  Yg  i"-.  then 
score  V-shaped  grooves,  checkerboard 
fashion,  across  the  remaining  high 
surface  that  is  not  a  part  of  the  de- 
sign, and  chip  out  the  resulting  small 
blocks  to  bring  the  entire  secondary 


328 


surface  of  the  block  to  a  uniform  level 
with  the  portions  adjoining  the  char- 
acters. 

A  touch  of  glue  to  the  back  of  the  cut 
will  set  it  securely  enough  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  block  D  for  printing,  and 
allow  its  removal  without  injury  when 
desired.    To  get  a  uniform  impression 


in  printing,  place  paper  on  the  base,  as 
at  E,  to  the  thickness  required.  For 
controlling  the  printing  position  on 
the  stock  paper,  pins  or  tacks  can  be 
stuck  into  the  base  and  each  sheet  to 
be  printed  laid  against  these  guides. — 
Contributed  by  Chelsea  Curtis  Frazier, 
Saginaw,  Mich. 


An  Electrical  Testing  Instrument  for 
Experimenters 

The  amateur  having  an  ordinary 
flash  light  can  make  an  instrument  that 
will  serve  for  a  variety  of  purposes. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  solder  a  piece 


An  Instrument  Made  of  an    Electrical   Pocket   Flash 
Light  for  Testing  Circuits  and  Instruments 

of  lamp  cord  to  the  spring  of  the  bat- 
tery which  comes  in  contact  with  the 
lamp,  and  pass  the  end  through  a  hole 
drilled  in  the  top  of  the  case.  The  end 
can  be  fitted  with  a  cord  tip. 

To  test  batteries,  take  the  flash 
light  in  the  right  hand  and  press  the 
button,  lighting  the  lamp,  then  place 
the  bottom  of  the  flash  light  on  one 
binding  post  and  the  cord  on  the  other. 
If  the  light  burns  brilliantly,  the  bat- 
tery is  dead,  but  if  it  burns  dimly  or 
goes  out  the  battery  is  good. 

It  may  happen  that  the  experiment- 


er's telegraph  line  is  out  of  order  and 
the  trouble  cannot  be  found.  The 
sounder  may  be  tested  out  by  discon- 
necting the  wires  from  the  instru- 
ment and  placing  the  bottom  of  the 
flash  light  on  one  binding  post  and 
the  cord  on  the  other.  If  the  light 
goes  out,  the  trouble  does  not  lie  in  the 
sounder,  but  in  some  other  part  of  the 
line.  The  line  may  be  tested  in  a 
similar  manner  if  one  end  is  short- 
circuited  and  the  flash  light  connected 
to  the  other. 

A  tester  of  this  kind  cannot  be  used 
on  long  lines,  or  on  instruments  of 
much  resistance,  as  their  resistance 
will  overcome  that  of  the  light.  Keep 
in  mind  the  fact  that  the  lamp  will  al- 
ways burn  on  an  open  circuit  and  go 
out  on  a  closed  circuit. 


Softening  the  Tone  of  a  Talking 
Machine 

An  effective  mute,  for  use  on  any 
disk  talking  machine,  can  be  made  by 
clamping  an  ordinary  wood  clothespin 
on  the  head  of 
the  setscrew 
that  holds  the 
needle.  Thus 
the  tone  will  be 
softened  a  great 
deal  more  than 
by  the  use  of  a 
wood  needle. 
The  record  of  a  stringed  instrument, 
such  as  a  violin,  will  be  almost  exactly 
reproduced.  It  will  also  eliminate 
almost  all  the  scratching  sound  caused 
by  a  steel  needle. — Contributed  by  C. 
M.  Reeves,  Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


CAn  antenna  should  be  made  of  wire 
larger  than  No.  14  gauge. 


7K 


^UIC 


UA[i:^T]m. 


s 


A  Musical  Doorbell 


By  H.   MARCELLE 


TN  the  construction  of  this  doorbell 
-'■  it  is  best  to  purchase  a  small  in- 
strument known  as  the  "tubaphone." 
It  consists  of  a  rack  with  several  pieces 
of  brass  tubing  cut  to  different  lengths 
to  give  the  proper  tones  as  they  are 
struck.  Such  an  instrument  with  eight 
tubes  will  play  almost  any  tune,  and 
can  be  purchased  from  50  cents  up,  de- 
pending on  the  size.  Brass  tubes  can 
be  purchased,  cut,  and  toned,  but  the 
time  taken  in  doing  this  is  worth  more 
than  the  price  of  the  instrument,  and 
no  changes  are  necessary  in  it  to  make 
the  doorbell. 

Several  strips  of  pine,  2  in.  wide  and 
%  in.  thick,  are  procured  for  the  frame- 
work. The  tubes  are 
placed  on  a  table  top,  1  in. 
apart  and  with  their  lower 
ends  on  a  line  at  right 
angles     to     their     length. 


additional  material  to  fasten  on  the 
ends  of  two  uprights,  which  are  cut 
long  enough  to  admit  the  longest  tube 
and  allow  sufficient  room  for  a  large 
roller  and  space  at  the  top  to  swing  the 
tubes. 

A  base  is  cut  from  a  board,  %  in. 
thick  and  of  sufficient  size  to  admit  the 
roller  and  tube  rack,  together  with  a 
small  battery  motor.  The  tube  rack 
is  fastened  to  the  back  of  this  base  by 
making  a  tenon  on  the  lower  end  of 
each  upright,  and  a  mortise  in  the  base- 
board to  receive  it. 

A  roller  is  turned  from  a  piece  of  soft 
pine,  large  enough  to  provide  room  on 
its  surface  for  a  number  of  horizontal 
lines  equal  to  the 
number  of  notes  in 
the  composition  to 
be  played.  These 
lines    should    not   be 


Detail    of     the 

Parts    for    the 

Construction 

of  a  Music al 

Doorbell  That 

will    Play     the 

on  Brass  Tubes 

ne    Touch  of    a 

Push  Button 


Allow  a  space  of  1  in.  outside  the  first 
and  last  tube,  and  cut  a  piece  of  the 
wood  to  this  length,  allowing  sufficient 


too  close  together.  Supposing  the 
music  it  is  desired  to  play  has  1.5  notes 
in  its  composition,  then  15  horizontal 


339 


330 


lines  must  be  spaced  evenly  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  roller.  The  length  of  the 
roller  should  be  a  free-working  fit  be- 
tween the  uprights.  A  i/4-in.  steel  rod 
is  run  through  its  center  for  a  shaft, 


IIIIIII 

♦   ♦  ♦   ♦   ♦   ♦    ♦ 


The  Appearance  of  the  Doorbell  Is  That  of  a 
Mission  Clock  on  a  Mantel 


allowing  sufficient  ends  for  the  bear- 
ings, and,  in  addition,  at  one  end  suf- 
ficient length  for  a  pulley. 

The  motor  is  lined  up  on  the  base,  so 
that  its  pulley  wheel  will  run  a  belt  on 
the  large  wheel  of  the  roller.  The  cur- 
rent is  turned  on  after  making  belt  and 
wiring  connections,  a  lead  pencil  is  held 
directly  centering  the  place  where  each 
tube  hangs,  and  a  line  is  drawn  on  the 
circumference  of  the  roller. 

A  i/s-i"-  hole  is  drilled  through  each 
tube,  near  one  end,  and  a  piece  of  cat- 
gut string  run  into  it  to  make  a  hanger. 
A  piece  of  board,  long  enough  to  fit 
between  the  uprights  when  placed  on 
the  slope  formed  by  the  upper  ends  of 
the  tubes  after  their  lower  ends  are  set 
straight  on  a  line  at  right  angles  to 
their  length,  and  wide  enough  to  swing 
the  tubes  clear  of  the  frame,  is  fas- 
tened in  place,  as  shown.  Small  screw 
eyes  are  turned  into  the  under  side  of 
this  board,  at  even  spacings  of  1  in., 
and  used  to  swing  the  tubes  by  the  cat- 
gut strings.  Another  piece  of  board, 
the  same  width  as  the  former,  is  placed, 
perfectly  horizontal,  between  the  up- 
rights a  short  distance  above  the  lower 
ends  of  the  hanging  tubes.  Evenly 
spaced  holes  are  bored  in  this  cross- 
piece  to  admit  the  ends  of  the  tubes. 
The  holes  should  be  of  such  size  that 
when  they  are  lined  with  a  piece  of  felt, 


the  tubes  will  have  a  little  play  with- 
out touching  the  sides  at  any  point. 

The  hammers  are  each  made  of  a 
strip  of  sheet  brass,  having  a  length 
that  will  extend  from  the  base  to  a 
short  distance  above  the  lower  ends  of 
the  tubes.  A  hole  is  drilled  in  each 
end  of  the  strip,  the  lower  one  being 
of  a  size  to  fasten  it  to  the  base  cross- 
piece  with  a  round-head  wood  screw. 
The  hole  in  the  upper  end  is  used  to 
fasten  a  small  block  of  wood  with  a 
screw,  for  the  hammer  head.  A  small 
strip  of  felt  is  glued  to  the  striking  side 
of  the  block.  Another  piece  of  brass, 
used  for  a  trip,  is  fastened  to  the  center 
part  of  each  long  piece  with  rivets,  so 
that  its  upper  end  will  be  near  the  cen- 
ter of  the  roller  for  height,  and  strike 
the  end  of  a  small  peg  driven  into  the 
roller.  The  length  of  these  pieces,  in 
fact,  of  all  pieces,  will  depend  on  the 
length  of  the  tubes  in  the  tubaphone 
and  the  size  roller  required  for  the 
music. 

The  setting  of  the  pegs  in  the  roller 
requires  some  patience  in  order  to  get 
the  tune  correct,  but  one  mistake  will 
be  of  more  value  than  an  hour's  de- 
scription. The  pegs  can  be  procured 
from  a  shoemaker.  If  the  roller  is  of 
pine,  they  can  be  driven  into  the  wood 
of  the  roller  with  a  hammer. 

With  ordinary  connections  to  the 
push  button  and  motor,  the  mechanism 
will  only  run  while  the  push  button  is 
being  pressed.  A  device  that  will 
cause  the  piece  of  music  to  be  played 
through  to  the  finish  after  the  push  but- 
ton is  pushed  for  a  short  time,  consists 
of  a  turned  piece  of  wood  fastened  to 
the  outside  surface  of  the  driving  wheel 
on  the  roller.  This  piece  of  wood 
should  be  carefully  set,  so  that  its  out- 
side surface  will  be  true  as  it  revolves. 
Three  brushes,  made  of  copper  strips, 
are  fastened  to  the  base.  The  length 
of  these  brushes  will  depend  on  the 
size  of  the  roller  and  height  of  the  block 
of  wood.  They  should  be  evenly 
spaced  and  fastened,  so  that  they  will 
be  insulated  from  each  other.  One 
strip  of  brass,  or  copper,  is  fastened 
around  the  turned  piece  of  wood.  This 
strip  must  be  as  wide  as  two  brushes, 


331 


except  for  a  short  distance  to  make  a 
break  in  the  electrical  circuit.  The 
notch  in  the  strip,  to  make  this  break, 
should  be  on  the  outside  edge  where  it 
will  disconnect  the  center  brush,  and 
its  location  on  the  turned  piece  of  wood 
should  be  on  a  line  with  the  end  and 
the  beginning  of  the  pegs  for  the  music. 
Another  short  strip  is  fastened  to  the 
turned  piece  of  wood,  where  it  will 
make  a  contact  with  the  first  brush 
when  the  second  or  middle  brush  is  in 
the  notch,  or  disconnected,  and  is  con- 
nected to  the  other  notched  strip  with 
a  piece  of  wire  run  beneath  the  wood. 

The  wiring  shown  will  make  it  pos- 
sible to  start  the  motor  with  the  push 
button  which  will  turn  the  roll  far 
enough  to  connect  the  center  brush ; 
then  the  roller  will  turn  until  the  music 
is  played,  at  which  point  it  will  stop 
and  remain  in  rest  until  the  push  but- 
ton again  makes  the  contact. 

The  entire  mechanism  can  be  made 
to  set  on  the  mantel  or  shelf,  incased 
like  a  mission  clock,  and  the  wires  run- 
ning to  it  may  be  concealed. 


CUT  OFF  HERE 


Replacing  Buckle  Tongues 

Having  several  buckles  without 
tongues  I  tried  to  repair  them  with 
pieces  of  wire,  but  could  not  get  them 
to  bend  short 
enough  to  fasten 
around  the 
liuckle  frame. 
Some  cotters 
were  at  hand  and 
seeing  them 
gave  me  the  idea 
of  using  one  leg, 
with  the  eye 
part,  as  a  tongue. 
By  using  the 
proper-sized  cotter,  a  substantial  and 
quickly  made  repair  will  be  the  result. 
— Contributed  by  Everett  Hoar,  Bow- 
manville,  Ont. 


Drying  Towels  in  Photographer's 
Dark  Room 

In  doing  a  large  amount  of  photo- 
graphic work  the  towel  becomes  wet, 
and  to  dry  the  hands  on  it  is  impos- 


C  Bread  crumbs  thoroughly  rubbed 
over  a  pencil  drawing  will  remove  most 
of  the  dirt  and  without  disturbing  the 
pencil  lines. 


An  Electric  Globe  Makes  Heat  in  the  Spool  for 
Drying  a  Portion  of  the  Towel 

sible.  To  obviate  this  annoyance,  I 
made  a  galvanized-iron  pipe,  about  2 
ft.  long  and  8  in.  in  diameter,  with  a 
disk,  or  circular  piece,  of  metal  about 
10  in.  in  diameter  soldered  on  each  end 
to  form  flanges  One  flange  was  fas- 
tened to  the  wall  of  the  dark  room  in  a 
convenient  place  to  support  the  device. 
On  the  inside  of  the  spool,  or  towel 
support,  an  ordinary  incandescent 
electric  globe  was  placed.  The  heat  of 
the  lamp  would  easily  dry  13  in.  of 
the  towel,  and  when  the  dry  p:irt  was 
pulled  down  for  use  another  wet  por- 
tion was  brought  into  position  for 
drying. 

Those  who  have  tried  to  handle  gel- 
atin dry  plates  with  moist  hands  will 
readily  appreciate  the  value  of  this 
simple  contrivance.  The  lamp  in  the 
spool  is  connected  on  the  switch  with 
the  ruby  light,  so  that  it  is  not  for- 
gotten, when  leaving  the  room,  to 
turn  it  out. — Contributed  by  T.  B. 
Lambert,  Chicago. 


332 


An  Electric  Chime  Clock 


By  JOHN  E.  MAHLMEISTER 


IN  the  construction  of  this  clock  one 
perfectly  good  and  accurate  alarm 
clock  and  the  works  of  an  old  or  dis- 
carded one  are  used.  The  clock  for  the 
accurate  time  is  set  into  a  frame,  or 
casing,  made  of  thin  boards  which  have 
a  circular  opening  cut  in  them  to  fit 


The  Alarm  Clock  in  Its  Case  and  the  Location 
of  the  Contact  Pins  and  Contact  Lever 

snugly  on  the  outside  casing  of  the 
clock.  The  back  of  the  clock  and  cas- 
ing are  shown  in  Fig.  1.  A  circular  line 
is  drawn  on  the  casing,  about  1  in. 
larger  in  diameter  than  the  clock,  and 
brass  machine  screws  with  two  nuts 
clamping  on  the  wood  back,  as  shown 
at  A,  are  set  at  intervals  so  as  to  be  op- 
posite, or  just  back  of.  the  hour  marks 
2,  3,  5,  6,  8,  9,  11.  and  12.  A  contact 
spring,  B,  is  shaped  as  shown  and  sold- 
ered to  the  knurled  knob  on  the  back 


C       E 

©  ®  lU       VJ   ^     I ^- 

BINDING^      Ql — CJJ- 
T  ■ 


POSTS 


o'OiO' 

U      V  L  w 


Location  of  the  Clock  Works,  Magnets.  Binding 
Posts,  Gongs  and  Strikers  on  the  Baseboard 

of  the  clock  used  for  setting  the  hands 
in  a  position  where  it  will  travel  or  be 
parallel  with  the  minute  hand.  The 
end  of  the  contact  spring  should  be 
shaped  so  that  it  will  slide  over  the 
points  of  the  screws  easily,  but  in  good 
contact.    The  ends  of  the  screws  should 


be  filed  to  a  slightly  rounding  point. 
The  wiring  diagram  for  this  part  of 
the  apparatus  is  clearly  shown,  and  the 
terminals  are  connected  to  binding 
posts  C  and  D.  The  binding  post  E  is 
connected  to  the  metal  part  of  the 
clock. 

The  chime  part  is  made  entirely  sep- 
arate and  can  be  located  at  any  rea- 
sonable distance  from  the  clock.  It  is 
propelled  by  the  works  from  an  old 
clock,  as  shown  at  F,  Fig.  2.  The  old 
clock  is  prepared  for  use  by  removing 
the  hands,  balance  wheel  and  escape- 
ment so  that  the  wheels  will  turn 
freely.  To  prevent  the  works  from 
running  too  fast,  a  piece  of  sheet  brass, 
G,  is  soldered  to  the  shaft  running  at 
the  highest  speed.  The  brass  should 
be  as  large  as  the  space  will  admit.  It 
forms  a  fan  to  catch  the  air  and  re- 
tard the  speed,  and  also  provides  a 
means  of  stopping  the  works  by  the 
electric  mechanism. 

The  parts  for  the  gongs  and  elec- 
trical apparatus  are  supported  on  a 
baseboard,  %  in.  thick,  6  in.  wide,  and 
18  in.  long.  The  automatic  switch  is 
located  at  one  end  of  the  base,  and 
consists  of  two  sets  of  magnets,  H  and 
J,  with  an  armature,  K,  to  which  is 
attached  a  stifif  contact  wire,  L.  This 
wire  is  to  make  contact  with  the  spring 
M  when  the  armature  is  drawn  by  the 
magnets  J,  and  with  N  when  drawn  by 
the  magnets  H.  The  springs  M  and  N 
are  made  of  thin  sheet  brass,  bent  as 
shown,  and  mounted  on  the  base. 

A  piece  of  wood,  O,  on  which  to 
mount  the  works  of  the  old  clock  is 
mortised  into  the  base.  Another 
standard,  P,  of  the  same  height  as  O, 
is  also  mortised  into  the  base  to  pro- 
vide a  bearing  for  the  end  of  the  shaft 
which  carries  the  wood  disk  Q,  the  op- 
posite end  of  the  shaft  being  connected 
by  means  of  a  ferrule  and  soldered  to 
the  end  of  the  minute-hand  shaft.  The 
shaft  should  be  well  lined  up,  so  that  it 
will  turn  freely.  The  wood  disk  is  ^4 
in.  thick  and  about  6  in.  in  diameter. 


333 


Mark  four  circles  on  the  face  of  the 
disk,  near  the  outside  edge  and  i/i  in. 
apart.  Step  off  the  outside  circle  into 
150  parts  and  draw  a  radial  line  from 
each  mark  across  the  four  circular  lines 
with  the  straight  edge  on  the  center  of 
the  disk.  An  arc  of  the  disk  is  shown 
in  Fig.  3,  where  trip  pins  are  driven  in 
for  making  the  electric  contacts.  This 
part  of  the  arc  shows  the  method  of 
locating  the  pins  for  the  hour  from  3 
to  4  o'clock,  with  the  intermediate  pins 
for  the  quarter,  half,  and  three-quarter- 
hour  contacts.  The  intermediate  pins 
are  arranged  in  the  same  manner  for  all 
hours,  but  the  hour  pins,  on  the  second 
circle,  run  from  1  pin  to  12  pins  con- 
secutively. Ordinary  pins,  with  the 
heads  cut  off,  are  used  and  should  be 
driven  in  accurately  on  the  division 
lines  to  secure  proper  results. 

The  arrangement  of  the  springs  is 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  These  springs,  when 
pressed  together,  will  close  the  circuit 
for  ringing  the  gongs.  They  are  made 
of  thin  sheet  brass,  bent  as  shown  at  R, 
and  fastened  to  a  piece,  or  block,  of 
hard  wood  with  screws,  as  shown  at 

5.  The  springs  numbered  3,  5,  7,  and 
9  are  the  ones  made  as  shown  at  R  for 
sliding  over  the  pins  in  the  disk  Q,  and 
their  ends  should  clear  the  face  of  the 
disk  about  %  in.     The  springs  1,  2,  4, 

6,  and  8  are  about  1/2  in-  shorter  and 
have  their  ends  bent  up  at  right  angles 
so  that  they  will  almost  touch  the  long 
ones.  The  spring  1  should  be  a  little 
shorter  than   2.     When   fastening  the 


3  00  PINS 
3  15  PIN 
3  OCLOCK 
PINS 


3  OCLOCK 
STOP  PIN 


3A5    STOP  PIN 
330   STOP   PIN 
3  IS  STOP  PIN 


The  Pins  arc  Accurately  Set  in  Four  Circular   Lines 
and  on  Radial  Lines 

springs  to  the  block  of  wood,  be  sure 
that  no  two  springs  touch  and  that 
each  one  is  separated  from  the  other 
to  form  no  contact  until  the  pins  in  the 
wheel  force  them  together.  The  block 
is  then  fastened  to  the  base  under  and 


parallel    with    the    shaft    carrying    the 
disk  Q,  as  shown. 

The  starting  and  stopping  of  the 
clockwork  F  is  accomplished  by  means 
of  a  set  of  bell  magnets,  arranged,  as 


The  Parts  Constructing  the  Chime  are  Placed 
in  the  Clock  Frame  below  the  Works 

shown  at  T,  Fig.  2,  with  the  wire  at- 
tached to  the  armature  bent  to  touch 
the  brass  wing  of  the  fan  G.  The  arma- 
ture must  not  vibrate,  but  stay  against 
the  magnet  cores  while  the  current 
is  flowing  through  them,  thus  allow- 
ing the  clock  wheels  to  turn,  and  as 
soon  as  the  current  is  cut  off,  the  arma- 
ture will  spring  back  and  stop  the 
wheels. 

Arrange  four  gongs,  U,  V,  W,  and 
X,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  also  three 
bell  magnets  with  clappers  1,  2  and  3. 
These  gongs  should  be  selected  for 
tone  as  in  a  chime  clock.  The  connec- 
tions to  the  bell  magnets  1,  2,  and  3 
should  be  direct  to  the  binding  posts 
so  that  the  armature  will  not  vibrate. 


334 


but  give  one  stroke.  For  instance,  bell 
magnet  1  should  produce  one  stroke 
on  the  gong  U  when  the  current  is  on, 
and  one  stroke  on  the  gong  V  when 


;-3     —    R 


The  Contact  Springs  are  Operated  by  the  Pins 
on  the  Disk  Wheel 

the  current  breaks.  The  magnets  2 
should  cause  the  clapper  to  strike  once 
on  the  gong  V  when  the  current  is 
on,  and  to  make  one  stroke  on  the  gong 
W  when  the  current  is  broken.  The 
magnets  3  produce  only  one  stroke 
on  the  gong  X  at  a  time,  which  is  used 
to  sound  the  hours. 

The  parts  are  connected  up  electric- 
ally as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  lines  be- 
tween the  clock.  Fig.  1,  and  the  bell- 
ringing  part.  Fig.  2,  are  connected 
from  C  to  C,  D  to  D,  and  E,  Fig.  1,  to 
the  zinc  of  a  battery  and  from  the  car- 
bon to  E,  Fig.  3.  Two  dry  cells  will 
be  sufficient  for  the  current. 

The  working  of  the  mechanism  is  as 
follows :  Suppose  the  time  is  6  min- 
utes of  3  o'clock  and  the  contact  spring 
on  the  back  is  near  the  11  pin.  As 
soon  as  it  touches  the  pin,  the  arma- 
ture K  of  the  switch  will  be  drawn 
in  contact  with  the  spring  N,  then 
when  the  contact  spring  touches  the 
12  pin,  the  current  will  flow  into  the 


The  Wiring  Diagram  for  the   Location   of  the   Wires 
on  the  Under  Side  of  the  Base 

magnets  T  and  release  the  wheels  of 
the  clockwork  F,  which  turns  the  disk 
Q,  and  the  three  pins  in  the  second  row 
will  pass  over  the  spring  5  and  press  it 
in  contact  with  the  spring  4  three 
times,  causing  the  gong  X  to  toll  out 


3  o'clock.  As  the  contact  spring  B  will 
be  on  the  contact  pin  13  for  about  1 
minute,  the  wheels  of  the  clockwork 
F  would  continue  to  turn  and  the  bells 
ring,  if  it  were  not  for  the  stop  pin  lo- 
cated on  the  outside,  or  first,  circle  of 
the  disk  Q,  which  pin  is  set  in  line  with 
the  last  pin  in  the  set  of  pins  for  the 
hour,  or,  in  this  instance,  in  line  with 
the  third  pin.  When  the  stop  pin  has 
passed  the  spring,  the  connection 
through  the  magnets  T  is  broken  and 
the  clockwork  F  stops  instantly. 
When  the  spring  B  strikes  the  2  o'clock 
pin,  or  10  minutes  after  3  o'clock,  the 
armature  K  is  drawn  over  to  N,  and  at 
the  3  pin,  or  15  minutes  after  3  o'clock, 
the  bells  U,  V,  and  W  will  ring  and 
then  the  stop  pin  will  break  the  cur- 
rent, and  so  on,  at  every  15  minutes  of 
the  13  hours. 


Hinges  Used  to  Substitute  Night  Bolt 

One  of  the  safest  devices  for  bolting, 
or  locking,  a  door  against  intruders  is 
to  use  two  sets  of  hinges.  The  extra 
set  is  fastened  to  the  door  and  frame  in 
the  same  way  but  directly  opposite  the 
regular  hinges.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
file  the  extra  hinges  and  pins  in  order 
to  separate  and  bring  the  parts  together 
easily.  The  usual  door  lock  need  not 
be  used  with  this  arrangement,  as  the 
hinges  are  exposed  only  on  the  inside 
of  the  room  and  cannot  be  tampered 
with  from  without. 


Propellers  for  a  Hand  Sled 

Desiring  to  propel  my  hand  sled 
with  power  transmitted  by  cranks  and 
wheels,  I  set  about  to  procure  the  nec- 
essary materials.  Two  medium-sized 
buggy  wheels  were  found  in  the  back 
yard  of  a  blacksmith  shop,  which  were 
procured  for  a  nominal  price.  The 
fellies  of  these  wheels  were  removed, 
the  tenons  cut  from  the  spokes  and 
nails  substituted,  which  were  driven 
in  their  ends  so  that  about  i/o  in.  of 
the  body  with  the  head  projected. 
The  heads  were  then  removed  and  the 
nail  ends  sharpened. 

The  hubs  were  plugged  with  pieces 


335 


of  wood,  whittled  to  tightly  fit  the 
holes.  A  hole  was  then  bored  exactly 
central  through  each  plug  for  a  Y^-in. 
rod.  This  size  rod  was  procured  and 
bent  to  form  a  crank,  the  bearing  end 
being  threaded  for  a  distance  equal  to 
the  length  of  the  hub. 

Tvvo  pieces  or  blocks  of  wood,  2  in. 
square  and  4  in.  long,  were  used  as 
bearings.  These  were  bored  cen- 
trally through  the  long  way,  to  receive 
the  Vi-in.  rod  just  loose  enough  to 
make  a  good  bearing.  These  bearings 
were  supported  by  a  pair  of  braces 
made  of  strap  iron,  about  i/^  in.  thick 
and  %  in.  wide.  The  length  of  the 
iron  will  depend  on  the  size  of  the 
wheels  and  the  height  of  the  sled  run- 
ner. The  braces  were  shaped  as 
shown.  The  center  of  the  bearing  hole 
must  be  as  high  from  the  surface  of 
the  ground  as  the  distance  the  spoke 
ends  are  from  the  center  of  the  hub 
hole. 

The  crank  is  then  run  through  the 
bearing  hole  and  a  nut  run  on  the 
threads  and  a  washer  placed  against 
the  nut.  The  wheel  is  then  slipped 
on  the  axle,  and  another  washer  and 
nut  run  on  tightly.  Both  wheels, 
bearings,    cranks,    and     brackets     are 


BUCGV  WHEEL- 


Sled  Propelled 

by  Revolving  Wheels 

Turned  by  Cranks, 

the  Pointed    Nails 

Doing  the  Pushing 


made  alike.  The  brackets  are  fas- 
tened with  small  bolts  to  the  sled  top. 
— Contributed  by  Justin  Stewart, 
Wallingford,   Conn. 


A  Self-Feeding  Match  Box 

With  the  addition  of  the  simple  de- 
vice here  illustrated,  any  match  box 
can  be  converted  into  one  of  the  self- 


The  Attachment  Consists  of  a  Receptacle  Fitting 
into  the  End  of  a  Match  Box 

feeding  type.  A  piece  of  tin,  or  card- 
board, is  cut,  as  shown  at  A,  the  exact 
size  depending  on  the  match  box  used. 
The  piece  cut  out  is  folded  on  the 
dotted  lines,  the  cover  on  the  match 
box  is  removed,  and  the  part  B  pushed 
into  the  end  of  the  box  beneath  the 
matches.  The  part  B  is  twice  as  long 
as  the  depth  of  the  box,  therefore  it 
enters  the  box  as  far  as  the  line  C.  The 
flaps  D  rest  against  the  outside  of  the 
box,  and  are  held  in  place  by  the  box 
cover.  The  matches  feed  into  the  box 
formed  of  the  tin  or  cardboard  as  fast 
as  used,  while  the  burnt  ones  can  be 
placed  in  the  upper  part  E. 


Corks-in-a-Box  Trick 

Procure  a  pill  box  and  a  clean  cork. 
Cut  two  disks  from  the  cork  to  fit  in 
the  box,  and  fasten  one  of  the  pieces 
centrally  to  the  inside  bottom  of  the 
pill  box  with  glue. 

To  perform  the  trick,  put  the  loose 
disk  in  with  the  one  that  is  fast,  and 
then  open  the  box  to  show  both  corks. 
Close  the  box  and  in  doing  so  turn  it 
over,  then  open  and  only  one  cork  will 
be  seen.  Be  careful  not  to  show  the 
inside  of  the  other  part  of  the  box  with 
the  cork  that  is  fastened. — Contrijjuted 
by  Fred  B.  Spoolstra,  Yonkers,  N.  Y. 


336 


A   Disk-Armature   Motor 

One  of  the  simplest  motors  to  make 
is  the  disk  motor,  its  construction  re- 
quiring a  wood  base,  a  brass  disk,  a  3-in. 
horseshoe  magnet,  and  some  mercury. 


in  diameter,  and  a  needle,  with  the  eye 
broken  off  and  pointed,  is  used  for  the 
shaft.  The  needle  shaft  can  be  placed 
in  position  by  springing  the  bearings 
apart  at  the  top. 

When  the  current  is  applied,  the  disk 


Parts  of  the    Disk   Motor 

Shown  in  Detail, 
Also  the  Location  of  the 
Horseshoe  Magnet  on  the 
Base,  Ends  of  the  Poles 
being  Directly  under  the 
Center   of   the  Shaft 


The  base  is  made  of  hard  wood,  in  the 
proportions  shown  in  the  sketch.  The 
leading-in  wires  are  connected  to  the 
binding  posts  A  and  B,  and  from  these 
connections  are  made,  on  the  bottom  of 
the  base,  from  A  to  the  groove  C  cut  in 
the  upper  surface  of  the  base  for  the 
mercury,  and  from  B  to  one  screw,  D,  of 
one  bearing.  The  end  of  the  former 
wire  must  be  clean  and  project  into  the 
end  of  the  groove,  where  it  will  be  sur- 
rounded with  mercury. 

The  bearings  consist  of  thin  sheet 
brass,  cut  to  the  dimensions  shown,  the 
bearing  part  being  made  with  a  well- 
pointed  center  punch,  as  at  E.  The 
disk  wheel  is  made  of  sheet  brass,  2  in. 


will  revolve  in  a  direction  relative  to 
the  position  of  the  poles  on  the  magnet. 
The  reverse  can  be  made  by  turning 
tlie  magnet  over. — Contributed  by 
Joseph  H.  Redshaw,  Homestead,  Pa. 

Repairing  Marble 

With  a  little  practice  any  mechanic 
can  repair  holes,  cracks  or  chipped 
places  on  marble  slabs,  so  that  the 
patched  place  cannot  be  detected  from 
the  natural  marble.  Use  the  following 
mixture  as  a  base  for  the  filler:  Water 
glass,  10  parts;  calcined  magnesite,  3 
parts,  and  powdered  marble,  4  parts. 
These  should  be  mixed  thoroughly  to  a 
semifluid  paste.  Fill  the  crack  or  hole 
and  smooth  off  level,  then  with  a  cam- 
el's-hair  brush  and  colors,  made  of  ani- 
line in  alcohol,  work  out  the  veins,  body 
colors,  etc.,  as  near  to  the  natural 
marble  as  possible.  It  will  depend  on 
the  application  of  the  colors  whether 
the  repair  can  be  seen  or  not.  Artifi- 
cial-marble slabs  can  be  formed  from 
this  mixture. — Contributed  by  A.  E. 
Soderlund,  New  York  City. 


337 


The   Construction   of  a   Simple    Wireless  Telephone    Set 


By  A.   E.  ANDREWS 


In  Two  Parts  — Part  I 


Amongf  the  various  methods  for  the 
transmission  of  speech  electrically, 
without  wire,  from  one  point  to  an- 
other, the  so-called  "inductivity"  sys- 
tem, which  utilizes  the  principles  of 
electromagnetic  induction,  is  perhaps 
the  simplest,  because  it  requires  no  spe- 
cial apparatus.  Since  this  system  is 
so  simple  in  construction,  and  its  opera- 
tion can  be  easily  understood  by  one 
whose  knowledge  of  electricity  is  lim- 
ited, a  description  will  be  given  of  how 
to  construct  and  connect  the  necessary 
apparatus  required  at  a  station  for  both 
transmitting  and  receiving  a  message. 

Before  taking  up  the  actual  construc- 
tion and  proper  connection  of  the  vari- 
ous pieces  of  apparatus,  it  will  be  well 
to  explain  the  electrical  operation  of  the 
system.  If  a  conductor  be  moved  in 
a  magnetic  field  in  any  direction  other 
than  parallel  to  the  field,  there  will  be 
an  electrical  pressure  induced  in  the 
conductor,  and  this  induced  electrical 
pressure  will  produce  a  current  in  an 
electrical  circuit  of  which  the  conductor 
is  a  part,  provided  the  circuit  be  com- 
plete, or  closed,  just  as  the  electrical 
pressure  produced  in  the  battery  due 
to  the  chemical  action  in  the  battery 
will  produce  a  current  in  a  circuit  con- 
nected to  the  terminals  of  the  battery. 
A  simple  experiment  to  illustrate  the 
fact  that  there  is  an  induced  electrical 
pressure  set  up  in  a  conductor  when 
it  is  moved  in  a  magnetic  field  may  be 
performed  as  follows :  Take  a  wire, 
AB,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  connect  its 
terminals  to  a  galvanometer,  G,  as 
shown.  If  no  galvanometer  can  be  ob- 
tained, a  simple  one  can  be  made  by 
supporting  a  small  compass  needle  in- 
side a  coil  composed  of  about  100  turns 
of  small  wire.  The  terminals  of  the 
winding  on  the  coil  of  the  galvanometer 
should  be  connected  to  the  terminals 
of  the  conductor  AB,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1.  If  now  the  conductor  AB  be  moved 
up  and  down  past  the  end  of  the  mag- 


net N,  there  will  be  an  electrical  pres- 
sure induced  in  the  conductor,  and  this 
electrical  pressure  will  produce  a  cur- 
rent in  the  winding  of  the  galvanometer 


Fig.  1— Wire  Connected  to  Galvanometer 

G,  which  will  cause  the  magnetic  needle 
suspended  in  the  center  of  the  coil  to 
be  acted  upon  by  a  magnetic  force  tend- 
ing to  move  it  from  its  initial  position, 
or  position  of  rest.  It  will  be  found 
that  this  induced  electrical  pressure  will 
exist  only  as  long  as  the  conductor  AB 
is  moving  with  respect  to  the  magnetic 
field  of  the  magnet  N,  as  there  will 
be  no  deflection  of  the  galvanometer 
needle  when  the  motion  of  the  con- 
ductor ceases,  indicating  there  is  no 
current  in  the  galvanometer  winding, 
and  hence  no  induced  electrical  pres- 
sure. It  will  also  be  found  that  the 
direction  in  which  the  magnetic  needle 
of  the  galvanometer  is  deflected 
changes  as  the  direction  of  motion  of 
the  conductor  changes  with  respect  to 
the  magnet,  indicating  that  there  is  a 
change  in  the  direction  of  the  cur- 
rent in  the  winding  of  the  galva- 
nometer, and  since  the  direction  of  this 
current  is  dependent  upon  the  direction 
in  which  the  induced  electrical  pres- 
sure acts,  there  must  have  been  a 
change  in  the  direction  of  this  pressure 
due  to  a  change  in  the  direction  of  mo- 
tion of  the  conductor.  The  same  re- 
sults can  be  obtained  by  moving  the 
magnet,  allowing  the  conductor  AB  to 
remain  stationary,  the  only  require- 
ment being  a  relative  movement  of  the 


338 


conductor     and     the     ma.a^netic     field 
created  by  the  magnet. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  tlie  ma,a;netic 
field  be  created  by  a  permanent  mas:^- 
net.     It  can  be  produced  by  a  current 


\ 


v^^te 


vy 


Fig.  2 — Compass  Needle  Test 

in  a  conductor.     The  fact  that  there  is 
a    magnetic    field    surrounding    a    con- 
ductor in  which  there  is  a  current  can 
^ —  -..^^  be  shown  by  a  sim- 


'  s  pie    experiment,    as 

>^^~~"^    \       illustrated    in    Fig. 

//^Z^v\  I  -•  If  a  '^'^■•re  be 
placed  above  a 
compass  needle 
and  parallel  to  the 
direction  of  the 
compass  needle  and 
a  current  be  sent 
through  the  wire  in 
the  direction  indi- 
cated by  the  arrow 
I,  there  will  be  a 
force  acting  on  the 
compass  needle 
tending  to  turn  the 
needle  at  right  angles  to  the  wire.  The 
amount  the  needle  is  turned  will  de- 
pend upon  the  value  of  the  current  in 
the  wire.  There  is  a  definite  relation 
between  the  direction  of  the  current  in 
the  wire  and  the  direction  of  the  mag- 
netic field  surrounding  the  wire,  be- 
cause a  reversal  of  current  in  the  con- 
ductor will  result  in  a  reversal  in  the 
direction  in  which  the  compass  needle 
is  deflected.  Remembering  that  the 
direction  of  a  magnetic  field  can  be  de- 
termined by  placing  a  magnetic  needle 
in  the  field  and  noting  the  direction  in 
which  the  N-pole  of  the  needle  points, 
this  being  taken  as  the  positive  direc- 
tion, if  one  looks  along  a  conductor  in 
which  there  is  a  current  and  the  cur- 
rent be  from  the  observer,  the  direction 
of   the   magnetic    field   about   the   con- 


Fig.  4  —  Reversed 
Lines  of  Force 


ductor  will  be  clockwise.  Imagine  a 
conductor  carrying  a  current  and  that 
you  are  looking  at  a  cross-section  of 
this  conductor  (see  Fig.  3),  and  the  di- 
rection of  the  current  in  the  conductor 
is  from  you  (this  being  indicated  in 
the  figure  by  the  cross  inside  the  cir- 
cle), then  the  lines  of  force  of  the  mag- 
netic field  will  be  concentric  circles 
about  the  conductor,  they  being  nearer 
together  near  the  conductor,  indicat- 
ing the  strength  of  the  field  is  great- 
est near  the  conductor.  A  compass 
needle  placed  above  the  conductor 
would  place  itself  in  such  a  position 
that  the  N-pole  would  point  toward 
the  right  and  the  S-pole  toward  the  left. 
If  the  needle  be  placed  below  the  con- 
ductor, the  N-pole  would  point  to  the 
left  and  the  wS-pole  to  the  right,  indicat- 
ing that  the  direction  of  the  magnetic 
field  above  the  conductor  is  just  the  re- 
verse of  what  it  is  below  the  conductor. 
The  strength  of  the  magnetic  field 
produced  by  a  current  in  a  conductor 
can  be  greatly  increased  by  forming 
the  conductor  into  a  coil.  Figure  4 
shows  the  cross-section  of  a  coil  com- 
posed of  a  single  turn  of  wire.  The 
current  in  the  upper  cross-section  is 
just  the  reverse  of  what  it  is  in  the 
lower  cross-section,  as  indicated  by  the 
cross  and  dash  inside  the  two  circles. 
As  a  result  of  the  direction  of  current 


/ 

/  / 


\     \     V  ^"- ^  / 


\ 


\ 


\ 


^ 


/    / 

y 


Fig.  3  —  Lines  of  Force 

in  the  two  cross-sections  being  differ- 
ent, the  direction  of  the  magnetic  field 
about  these  two  cross-sections  will  be 
different,  one  being  clockwise,  and  the 


339 


other  counter-clockwise.  It  will  be  ob- 
served, however,  that  all  the  lines  of 
force  pass  throug'h  the  center  of  the 
coil  in  the  same  direction,  or  the  mag- 
netic field  inside  the  coil  is  due  to  the 
combined  action  of  the  various  parts 
of  the  conductor  formins^  the  complete 
turn.  This  magnetic  field  can  be  in- 
creased in  value,  without  increasing 
the  current  in  the  conductor,  by  adding 
more  turns  to  the  coil. 

A  cross-section  through  a  coil  com- 
posed of  eight  turns  placed  side  by 
side  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  greater 
part  of  the  magnetic  lines  created  by 
each  turn  pass  through  the  remaining 
turns  as  shown  in  the  figure,  instead 
of  passing  around  the  conductor  in 
which  the  current  exists  that  creates 
them.     This  results  in  the  total  num- 


Fig.  5  —  Magnetic    Lines   Passing  through  Center 

her  of  lines  passing  through  the  coil 
per  unit  of  cross-sectional  area  being 
greater  than  it  was  for  a  single  turn, 
although  the  value  of  the  current  in 
the  conductor  has  remained  constant, 
the  only  change  being  an  increase  in 
the  number  of  turns  forming  the  coil. 

If  a  conductor  be  moved  by  the  end 
of  a  coil  similar  to  that  shown  in  Fig. 
5,  when  there  is  a  current  in  the  wind- 
ing of  the  coil,  there  will  be  an  elec- 
trical pressure  induced  in  the  con- 
ductor, just  the  same  as  though  it  were 
moved  by  the  end  of  a  permanent  mag- 
net. The  polarity  of  the  coil  is  marked 
in  Fig.  5.  The  magnetic  lines  pass 
from  the  S-pole  to  the  N-pole  through 
the  coil  and  from  the  N-pole  to  the  S- 
pole  outside  the  coil,  just  as  they  do 
in  a  permanent  magnet. 


How  to  Lock  a  Tenoned  Joint 

A  tenon  placed  in  a  blind  mortise 
can  be  permanently  fastened,  when 
putting    the    joints    together,    by    two 


"Wedges  in  Tenon 

wedges  driven  in  the  end  grain  of  the 
wood.  In  some  cases,  where  the  wood 
to  be  used  is  very  dry  and  brittle,  it  is 
advisable  to  dip  the  tenon  in  warm 
water  before  applying  the  glue.  The 
glue  must  be  applied  immediately  after 
the  tenon  is  removed  from  the  water, 
and  then  inserted  in  the  mortise.  The 
sketch  shows  the  application  of  the 
wedges.  The  bottom  of  the  mortise 
drives  the  wedges  as  the  tenon  is 
forced  in  place. 


Fitting  a  Large  Cork  in  a  Small 
Bottle 

When  necessary,  a  large  cork  may 
be  made  to  fit  a  small  bottle,  if  treated 
as  shown  in  the  sketch.  Two  wedge- 
shaped  sections  are  cut  from  the  cork, 
at  right  angles  to  each  other,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1.  The  points  are  then  squeezed 
together  (Fig.  2)  and  the  end  inserted 


Fig. 2 

Reducing  Size  of  Cork 


in  the  bottle  (Fig.  3).  Wet  the  cork 
slightly  and  the  operation  will  be 
easier. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


340 


A  Homemade  W^et  Battery 


Procure  a  large  water  bottle  and 
have  a  glass  cutter  cut  the  top  off  so 
that  the  lower  portion  will  form  a  jar 
about  SVo  in. 
high.  Ne.xt  ob- 
tain two  pieces 
of  carbon,  about 
8  in.  long,  4  in. 
wide  and  i/4  in. 
thick.  Melt  up 
some  old  scrap 
zinc  and  mold  a 
piece  having 
the  same  di- 
mensions as  the 
pieces  of  car- 
bon. The  mold 
for  casting  the 
zinc  may  be 
made  by  nail- 
ing some  i/4-in.  strips  of  wood  on  a 
piece  of  dry  board,  forming  a  shallow 
box,  4  in.  wide  and  8  in.  long.  Re- 
move all  the  impurities  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  zinc  when  it  is  melted, 
with  a  metal  spoon  or  piece  of  tin. 
Before  filling  the  mold  with  the  metal, 
place  a  piece  of  No.  14  gauge  bare 
copper  wire  through  a  small  hole  in 
one  of  the  end  pieces  forming  the 
mold,  and  allow  it  to  project  several 
inches  inside,  and  make  sure  the  mold 
is  perfectly  level.  The  zinc  will  run 
around  the  end  of  the  wire,  which  is  to 
afford  a  means  of  connecting  the  zinc 
plate  to  one  of  the  binding  posts  form- 
ing the   terminals   of  the  cell. 

Cut  from  some  hard  wood  four 
pieces  a  little  longer  than  the  outside 
diameter  of  the  glass  jar,  two  of  them 
V2  by  %  in->  and  two,  V2  by  %  in.  Drill 
a  %-in.  hole  in  each  end  of  all  four 
pieces,  the  holes  being  perpendicular 
to  the  i/2-in.  dimension  in  each  case, 
and  about  %  in.  from  the  end.  Boil 
all  the  pieces  for  several  minutes  in 
paraffin  and  stand  them  up  on  end 
to  drain.  Procure  two  %-in.  brass 
bolts,  3V2  in.  long,  which  are  to  be 
used  in  clamping  the  elements  of  the 
cell  together.  The  two  smaller  pieces 
of  wood  should  be  placed  on  each  side 
of  one  end  of  the  zinc,  then  the  carbon 


pieces  and  the  larger  pieces  of  wood 
outside  the  carbon  pieces.  The  carbon 
plates  should  be  connected  together 
and  then  connected  to  a  binding  post 
which  forms  the  positive  terminal  of 
the  cell.  If  unable  to  obtain  pieces  of 
carbon  of  the  required  dimensions,  a 
number  of  ordinary  electric-light  car- 
bons may  be  used.  Get  about  ten 
y^-in.  carbons,  without  the  copper  coat- 
ing, if  possible ;  if  not,  file  all  the  cop- 
per off.  Cut  these  carbons  off,  forming 
S-in.  lengths.  File  the  top  ends  of  the 
carbons  flat  and  so  that  they  all  be- 
come equal  in  thickness,  and  clamp 
them  in  place  by  means  of  the  brass 
bolts.  If  rods  are  used,  they  should  all 
be  connected  together  by  means  of  a 
piece  of  copper  wire  and  then  to  a 
binding  post. 

The  plates  may  now  be  hung  in  the 
jar,  the  wooden  pieces  resting  on  the 
top  of  the  jar  and  acting  as  a  support. 
The  solution  for  this  cell  is  made  by 
dissolving  i/o  lb.  of  potassium  bichro- 
mate in  1/2  gal-  of  water,  and  then 
adding  very  slowly  i/o  lb.  of  strong 
sulphuric  acid.  More  or  less  solution 
may  be  made  by  using  the  proper  pro- 
portion of  each  ingredient. 

This  cell  will  have  a  voltage  of  two 
volts,  a  rather  low  internal  resistance, 
and  will  be  capable  of  delivering  a 
large  current.  If  it  should  begin  to 
show  signs  of  exhaustion,  a  little  more 
acid  may  be  added. 

A  chemical  action  goes  on  in  this 
cell  regardless  of  whether  it  supplies 
current  to  an  external  circuit  or  not, 
and  for  this  reason  the  elements  should 
be  removed  from  the  solution  and 
hung  directly  over  the  jar  when  the 
cell  is  not  in  use.  A  simple  device  for 
this  purpose  may  be  constructed  as 
shown.  A  cord  may  be  passed  through 
the  opening  in  the  crossbar  at  the  top 
and  its  lower  end  attached  to  the  ele- 
ments. When  the  elements  are  drawn 
out  of  the  solution,  the  upper  end  of 
the  cord  may  be  fastened  in  some  man- 
ner. This  frame  can,  of  course,  be 
made  longer,  so  it  will  accommodate 
a  number  of  cells. 


341 


The   Construction   of  a   Simple   Wireless    Telephone    Set 


By  A.  E.  ANDREWS 
In  Two  Parts— Part  II 


If  two  coils  of  wire  be  placed  parallel 
to  each  other  as  shown  in  Fig.  6,  and  a 
current  be  passed  through  the  winding 
of  one  of  them,  say  A,  a  part  of  the 
magnetic  lines  of  force  created  by  this 
current  will  pass  through  the  other  coil 
B.  These  lines  of  magnetic  force  must 
cut  across  the  turns  of  wire  of  the 
coil  in  which  there  is  no  current  as  the 
magnetic  field  is  being  created,  and  as 
a  result  there  will  be  an  electrical  pres- 
sure produced  in  the  winding  of  the 
coil  carrying  no  current.  When  the  cur- 
rent in  coil  A  is  discontinued,  the  mag- 
netic field  created  by  this  current  is 
destroyed  or  it  contracts  to  zero,  and 
the  magnetic  lines  again  cut  the  vari- 
ous turns  composing  the  winding  of 
coil  B.  The  direction  in  which  the 
magnetic  lines  of  force  and  the  wind- 
ing of  coil  B  move  with  respect  to 
each  other  is  just  the  reverse,  when  the 
current  in  the  winding  of  coil  A  is  in- 
creasing, to  what  it  is  when  the  cur- 
rent in  the  winding  of  the  coil  A  is  de- 
creasing. Any  change  in  the  value  of 
the  current  in  the  winding  of  coil  A 
will  result  in  a  change  in  the  number 
of  magnetic  lines  of  force  linked  with 
the  winding  of  the  coil  B,  and  as  a  re- 
sult of  this  change  in  the  number  of 
lines  linked  with  the  winding  of  coil 
B  there  will  be  an  induced  electrical 
pressure  set  up  in  coil  B.  The  direction 
of  this  induced  electrical  pressure  will 
depend  upon  whether  the  current  in 
the  winding  of  coil  A  is  increasing  or 
decreasing  in  value.  When  the  current 
in  the  winding  of  coil  A  is  increasing 
in  value,  the  electrical  pressure  induced 
in  the  winding  of  coil  B  will  be  in  such 
a  direction  that  the  current  produced 
by  this  induced  electrical  pressure  will 
pass  around  the  winding  of  coil  B  in 
the  opposite  direction  to  that  in  which 
the  current  passes  around  the  winding 
of  coil  A.  Or  the  current  produced  by 
the  induced  electrical  pressure  tends  to 
produce   a   magnetic   field   opposite    in 


\ 


/ 


B 


yi 


A 


A 


^-" 


\ 


')^^\ 


Fig.  6 


direction  to  the  one  created  by  the  cur- 
rent in  the  winding  of  coil  A.  When 
the  current  in  the  winding  of  A  is  de- 
creasing in  value,  the  induced  pressure 
in  the  winding  of  the  coil  B  is  just  the 
reverse  of  what  it  was  in  the  previous 
case  and  the  current  produced  by  this 
induced 
pressure 
passes 
around  the 
winding  o  f 
the  coil  B  in 
the  same  di- 
rection a  s 
the  current 
passes 
around  the 
winding  o  f 
coil  A.  The 
current  pro- 
duced by  the 
induced  electrical  pressure  aids  the  cur- 
rent in  the  winding  of  coil  A  in  produc- 
ing a  magnetic  field.  In  general  the 
current  resulting  from  the  induced 
pressure  always  passes  around  the  cir- 
cuit in  such  a  direction  as  to  produce 
a  magnetic  effect  which  will  oppose  a 
change  in  the  value  of  the  magnetic 
field  causing  the  induced  electrical 
pressure. 

There  will  be  an  induced  pressure 
in  the  winding  of  coil  B,  due  to  a 
change  in  the  value  of  the  current  in 
the  winding  of  coil  A,  as  long  as  the 
coil  B  remains  in  the  magnetic  field  of 
the  coil  A  and  its  plane  is  not  par- 
allel to  magnetic  lines ;  or,  in  other 
words,  coil  B  must  always  be  in  such 
a  position  that  some  of  the  magnetic 
lines  created  by  the  current  in  coil  A 
will  pass  through  the  winding  of  coil 
B. 

If  a  telephone  transmitter  and  a  bat- 
tery be  connected  in  series  with  the 
winding  of  coil  A,  a  fluctuating  or  vary- 
ing current  can  be  made  to  pass 
through  the  winding  by  causing  the  dia- 


342 


phragm  of  the  transmitter  to  vibrate 
by  speaking  into  the  mouthpiece  of  the 
transmitter.  This  varying  current  will 
set  up  a  varying  magnetic  field  and 
there  will  be  an  induced  electrical  pres- 


Fig.  7  —  Sending  and  Receiving  Equipment 

sure  set  up  in  coil  B,  if  it  be  properly 
placed  with  respect  to  coil  A.  A  re- 
ceiver connected  in  series  with  the 
winding  of  coil  B  will  be  subjected  to 
the  action  of  a  varying  current  due  to 
the  induced  electrical  pressure  in  the 
winding  of  coil  B  and  as  a  result,  the 
diaphragm  of  the  receiver  will  vibrate 
in  unison  with  that  of  the  transmitter, 
and  speech  can  thus  be  transmitted. 
The  connection  just  described  should 
be  somewhat  modified  and  a  little  more 
equipment  used  in  order  to  give  tlie 
best  results. 

Figure  7  shows  the  complete  send- 
ing and  receiving  equipment,  a  com- 
plete outfit  of  this  kind  being  re- 
quired for  each  station.  The  trans- 
mitter T  and  the  receiver  R  may  be 
an  ordinary  local  battery  transmitter 
and  receiver,  although  a  high-resist- 
ance receiver  will  give  better  results. 
The  induction  coil  with  the  windings, 
marked  P  and  S,  may  be  any  commer- 
cial type  of  induction  coil  as  used  in  a 
magneto  telephone  instrument,  but  a 
coil  with  a  high-wound  secondary  will 
give  better  results.  The  push  button 
K  is  to  be  used  in  closing  the  trans- 
mitter circuit  when  the  set  is  being 
used  for  transmitting,  the  key  being  de- 
pressed, and  for  shorting  out  the  high 
resistance  secondary  winding  when  the 
set  is  used  in  receiving,  the  key  being 


in  the  normal  position.  Ten  dry  cells 
should  be  connected  in  series  and  used 
to  supply  current  to  the  transmitter 
circuit,  as  shown  by  B  in  the  figure. 
The  receiver  R,  secondary  winding  of 
the  induction  coil  S,  and  the  winding 
of  coil  A  used  in  transmitting  and  re- 
ceiving the  magnetic  effects,  are  all 
connected  in  series.  The  winding  of 
the  coil  A  consists  of  two  parts,  D  and 
E,  as  shown  in  the  figure,  with  two  of 
their  ends  connected  together  by  means 
of  a  condenser,  C,  having  a  capacity 
of  about  2  micro-farads.  Each  of  these 
parts  should  consist  of  about  200  turns 
of  No.  23  gauge  silk-covered  copper 
wire,  wound  on  an  ordinary  bicycle  rim. 
The  inside  end  of  one  winding  should 
be  connected  to  the  outside  of  the  other 
by  means  of  the  condenser,  the  two 
coils  being  wound  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. The  condenser  C  can  be  pro- 
cured at  a  small  cost  from  almost  any 
telephone  company. 

To  talk,  two  of  the  instruments  are 
placed  23  or  30  ft.  apart,  and  they  may 
be  placed  in  difl^erent  rooms  as  walls 
and  other  ordinary  obstructions  that 
do  not  interfere  with  the  production  of 
the  magnetic  field  about  the  trans- 
mitting coil,  have  no  effect  upon  the 
operation.  Pressing  the  button  K  at 
the  transmitting  station,  closes  the 
transmitter  circuit  and  removes  the 
shunt  from  about  the  secondary  wind- 
ing of  the  induction.  Any  vibration  of 
the  transmitter  will  cause  a  varying 
current  to  pass  through  the  primary 
winding  P,  which  in  turn  induces  an 
electrical  pressure  in  the  secondary 
winding  S,  and  this  pressure  causes  a 
varying  current  to  pass  through  the 
coil  A.  The  varying  current  in  the 
winding  of  the  coil  A  produces  a  vary- 
ing magnetic  field  which  acts  upon  the 
receiving  coil,  inducing  an  electrical 
pressure  in  it  and  producing  a  current 
through  the  receiver  at  the  receiving 
station. 

A  filing  coherer,  adapted  to  close  a 
local  relay  circuit  and  ring  an  ordinary 
bell,  may  be  used  with  the  sets  just  de- 
scribed for  signaling  between  stations. 


343 


An  Electric  Incubator 


Where  electric  current  is  available, 
it  can  be  used  to  heat  an  incubator 
much  better  and  cleanlier  than  the 
kerosene  lamp.  The  materials  are  in- 
expensive and  the  cost  should  be  no 
more  than  for  the  ordinary  kind  of 
heater. 

First  of  all  the  box  part  must  be 
made  of  very  dry  wood,  i/o  in.  thick. 
The  material  should  be  matched,  as 
the  cost  of  the  operation  depends  up- 
on the  construction  of  the  box.  The 
proper  size  for  an  80-egg  incubator  is 
2  ft.  square  and  1  ft.  high.  If  a  larger 
one  is  desired,  the  dimensions  may  be 
varied  to  suit,  but  it  is  not  necessary 
to  make  it  any  higher  for  a  larger  one. 
If  it  is  desired  to  have  a  window  in  the 
door,  care  must  be  taken  to  make  it  a 
good  fit.  The  top,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch,  is  made  without  hinges  so  that 
it  can  be  readily  set  on  and  removed. 
This  makes  it  handy  in  case  of  repair- 
ing the  heater  and  cleaning  the  box. 
The  inside  of  the  box,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  bottom,  should  be  covered 
with  asbestos  paper. 


^:2ZZ3nzn2ZZ27Z2S27^ZZ:2nzSp22Z2Z72IIL 


^r2Z2Z2ZZZZZL 


■    ■■'^''ir,\'//::v    > 


m 


Fie.  1— Box  Details 

After  the  box  is  finished,  fit  it  with 
a  tray,  II/2  ft-  by  1  ft.^  IO34  in.  A 
tray  having  these  dimensions  will  slide 
easily  in  the  box.  This  is  an  essential 
feature  of  the  hatching.    The  frame  of 


the  tray  D,  Fig.  1,  consists  of  wood, 
%  by  %  in.,  with  a  bottom  made  of 
wire  mesh.    The  mesh  should  be  firmly 


Fig.  2  — Heater  Details 

attached,  so  that  it  will  not  give  away 
when  full  of  eggs.  Runners  for  the 
tray  are  placed  4I/2  in.  from  the  bottom 
of  the  box.  When  the  tray  is  put  in 
place,  it  will  not  touch  the  back.  This 
small  space  is  left  for  the  chicks  to 
fall  into  the  nursery  below.  About 
4  in.  below  the  tray  four  holes  are 
bored,  A  A,  Vs  in.  in  diameter,  one  on 
each  side  of  the  box.  These  holes  ad- 
mit fresh  air  to  the  eggs. 

The  electric  heater  is  just  large 
enough  to  allow  a  space  about  1/2  in. 
on  all  edges.  This  makes  it  23  in. 
square.  A  piece  of  Vt-i"-  asbestos  of 
the  above  size  should  be  secured,  on 
which  to  place  the  heating  wire.  The 
amount  of  wire  depends  on  the  size 
and  kind.  As  it  is  not  necessary  to 
heat  the  wire  very  hot,  iron  or  steel 
wire  may  be  used.  The  length  of  wire 
may  be  determined  by  the  following 
method : 

Wind  the  wire  on  a  long  stick,  mak- 
ing sure  that  no  one  coil  touches  its 
neighbor.  Connect  one  wire  of  the  cur- 
rent supply  at  one  end  of  the  coil  and 
run  the  other  end  of  the  current  sup- 


344 


ply  along  the  coils,  starting  at  the  ex- 
treme opposite  end  and  drawing  toward 
the  center  until  the  iron  wire  gets  too 
hot  to  hold  with  the  bare  hand.  This 
will  be  the  right  length  of  wire  to  use. 
The  length  being  known,  a  number  of 
tacks  are  placed  in  the  asbestos  board 
to  hold  the  wire,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
Cover  the  wire  with  a  sheet  of  asbestos 
and  attach  binding-posts,  E  and  F,  at 
each  end. 

The  asbestos  inclosing  the  heating 
wires  is  covered  with  a  thin  piece  of 
sheet  iron,  which  is  made  to  fit  tightly 
over  the  bottom  and  sides.  This  will 
spread  the  heat  evenly.  Be  careful  to 
have  the  binding-posts  insulated  from 
the  sheet  metal.  In  the  cross  section 
of  the  heater,  Fig.  2,  A  represents  the 
%-in.  asbestos  board ;  B,  the  heater 
wire ;  C,  the  asbestos  paper,  and  D  the 
sheet-metal  covering. 

The  most  important  part  of  the  in- 
cubator is  the  thermostat  which  regu- 
lates the  current  to  maintain  a  steady 
heat.     It  is  not  advisable  to  make  this 


instrument,  as  a  good  one  can  be  pur- 
chased for  less  than  $1.  Place  the 
thermostat  in  the  end  of  the  box  at 
B,  Fig.  1.  A  small  door,  E,  is  made  in 
the  box  for  easy  adjustment  of  the 
thumbscrews. 

Suspend  the  heater  from  the  cover 
of  the  box  with  bolts  2%  in.  long,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  1.  A  base  receptacle,  G, 
and  a  snap  switch,  H,  are  fastened  on 
top  of  the  cover  and  connected  up  to 
the  thermostat  B,  the  condenser  C,  the 
heater  F,  and  lamp  I,  as  shown.  An- 
other snap  switch,  J,  is  used  on  the 
light  only.  The  condenser  C  is  to  pre- 
vent sparking,  thus  saving  the  plati- 
num points  on  the  screws.  Do  not  use 
more  than  a  2-cp.  lamp  for  lighting 
purposes,  as  a  brighter  light  blinds  the 
young  chicks. 

The  incubator  should  be  run  for  a 
day  or  two  so  that  the  current  may  be 
well  regulated  before  placing  the  eggs 
in  the  tray.  The  incubator  is  operated 
the  same  as  with  lamp  heat. — Contrib- 
uted by  M.  Miller,  Lansing,  Mich. 


A    Cover    for    Magazines 


As  soon  as  Popular  Mechanics,  or 
any  other  magazine  of  similar  size,  ar- 
rives and  before  any  member  of  the 
family  looks  through  it,  strip  oiT  the 
front  cover  and  carefully  remove  the 
narrow  strip  on  the  back  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1.       Strengthen  the  back  with   a 


piece  of  bookbinding  tissue.  A,  Fig.  2, 
and  then  paste  a  piece  of  heavy  manila 
paper,  B,  over  the  covers  and  back. 
Over  this  paste  a  piece  of  dark  blue 
cambric.  Fig.  3,  carefully  turning  the 
edges  even  with  the  book.  The  picture 
from  the  cover  and  the  date  added  to 


Removing  the  Cover,   and    Binding  with  Heavy  Paper 


Fig.  4 

riG.3 

Cloth  Cover  and  Paper  Cover  Attached 


345 


the.  left  corner  of  the  picture  are  neatly 
pasted  on,  Fig.  4,  and  the  narrow  strip 
is  glued  to  the  back. 

The  book  is  put  under  a  heavy 
weight  for  several  hours.  Thus  a  neat, 
strong  cover,  which  looks  well  in  a 
bookcase,  is  secured  at  very  little  ex- 
pense. The  eager  handling  by  every 
member  of  the  family  cannot  soil  or 
deface  the  cover. — Contributed  by 
Katharine  D.  Morse,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


An  Optical  Illusion 

A  very  deceiving  illusion  can  be  con- 
trived with  a  bit  of  wire,  a  rubber  band 
and  a  toothpick.  An  ordinary  straight 
hairpin  will  serve  instead  of  the  wire. 
The  hairpin  or  wire  is  bent  as  shown  in 
the  illustration,  and  the  rubber  band 
then  placed  on  the  inverted  U-shaped 
part.     A  toothpick  is  inserted  through 


Toothpick  in  Rubber  Band 

the  rubber  band  and  a  few  turns  taken 
by  slipping  the  toothpick  back  and 
forth  so  it  will  pass  the  wire. 

Hold  the  wire  straight  in  front  of  the 
eyes,  and,  using  the  forefinger  of  the 
right  hand,  turn  the  end  of  the  tooth- 
pick A,  Fig.  1,  down  until  it  almost 
reaches  the  opposite  point  A,  Fig.  2, 
and  let  the  finger  slip  ofif.  It  will  ap- 
pear as  if  the  toothpick  passed  through 
the  wire. — Contributed  by  H.  H.  Wind- 
sor, Jr. 


Temperature   Alarm 

The  falling  temperature  of  a  room 
during  the  night  may  result  in  a  very 
bad  cold  for  the  occupant.  This  may 
be  prevented  by  the  use  of  an  alarm 
to  awaken  the  sleeper  and  warn  him 
to  close  the  window.  An  alarm  can 
be    made    as   follows:     Take    a    glass 


tube  about  4  in.  long  and  V^  in.  in  di- 
ameter and  close  one  end,  used  for  the 
bottom,    with    sealing    wax,    in    which 


The  Alarm  and  'Wiring  Diagram 

the  bare  end  of  a  No.  20  gauge  magnet 
wire  is  inserted.  The  tube  is  almost 
filled  with  mercury.  On  the  mercury 
a  float  of  wax  is  placed  in  which 
a  bare  piece  of  the  same  magnet 
wire  is  inserted  and  bent  as  shown 
in  the  sketch.  The  tube  of  mercury  is 
fastened  to  a  base  with  two  clips  of 
metal.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  base 
the  adjustable  lever  A  is  attached. 
The  electric  connections  are  made  as 
shown  in  the  sketch. 

Should  the  temperature  fall  during 
the  night,  the  mercury  will  contract, 
the  float  descend  and  the  circuit  close, 
so  that  the  bell  will  ring.  The  adjust- 
able lever  allows  setting  the  alarm 
for  various  differences  of  temperature. 
— Contributed  by  Klyce  Fuzzelle, 
Rogers,  Ark. 


Paper   Smoother   and   Penwiper 

A  convenient  paper  smoother  and 
penwiper  can  be  easily  made  as  fol- 
lows: Procure  a  common  celluloid 
harness  ring.  A,  about  li/o  in.  in  diam- 
eter and  fasten  a 
penwiper,  B,  to 
it.     The  wiper  is 

made      of      arts-      in         ng^r^gj 
crafts   leather, 
doubled       and 
filled  with  pieces 
of  chamois.      They   are   held   in   place 


346 


with  a  ribbon  or  cord  tied  as  shown. 
The  roughened  paper  caused  by  eras- 
ing can  be  easily  smoothed  with  the 
ring. — Contributed  by  G.  H.  Holter, 
Jasper,  Minn. 


Stereoscopic  Pictures  with  an 
Ordinary  Camera 

Make  a  small  table  as  wide  as  the 
camera  is  long  and  3  in.  longer  than 
the  camera  is  wide.  Sink  a  screw  nut 
in  the  center  of  the  under  side  to  en- 


Table  on  Tripod  for  Camera 

gage  the  regular  tripod  screw.  Fas- 
ten a  double  or  two-way  spirit  level 
on  the  front  left-hand  corner.  Nail 
strips  on  both  ends  and  on  the  rear 
side,  to  form  a  shallow  box  with  three 
sides.  The  illustration  shows  the  con- 
struction quite  plainly.  This  device 
was  used  by  a  correspondent  of  Cam- 
era Craft  as  follows:  The  table  was 
fastened  to  the  tripod  and  carefully 
leveled.  The  camera  is  placed  at  one 
side,  bringing  the  back  snugly  into  the 
corner  on  that  side.  Make  the  expo- 
sure, change  the  film,  slide  the  camera 
over  to  the  other  side  and  make  an- 
other exposure.  The  table  being  3  in. 
longer  than  the  camera  is  wide,  the  lens 
will  be  moved  exactly  3  in.  when  the 
camera  is  moved  over  to  the  other 
side.  Three  inches  is  the  separation  of 
the  lenses  in  stereoscopic  cameras  and 
the  negatives  made  as  above  will  be 
the  same. 

As  the  negatives  must  be  sized,  it 
is  necessary  to  use  films.  A  camera 
using  films  3V2  by  31/^  in.  will   make 


negatives  that  can  be  trimmed  1/4  in. 
on  each  side  to  make  prints  3  by  3l^ 
in.  Each  two  negatives  making  a  pair 
are  fastened  together,  properly  trans- 
posed, by  folding  a  narrow  strip  of 
black  paper  like  a  long,  V-shaped 
trough,  pasting  it,  and  putting  one  on 
the  bottom  of  the  two  negatives,  as 
they  lie  side  by  side,  and  one  at  the  top, 
saddle  fashion.  This  can  be  done  still 
easier  by  using  strips  of  passe-partout 
binding,  or  strips  used  for  binding  lan- 
tern slides.  If  so  desired,  the  use  of 
black  paper  can  be  carried  farther  by 
cutting  the  top  strip  of  binding  paper 
in  such  a  way  that  it  gives  the  round 
corners  to  the  top  of  the  prints.  A 
narrow  strip  through  the  center  and  a 
binding  of  black  paper  along  the  two 
end  edges  make  a  mask  unnecessary  in 
printing. 


How  to  Make  a  Paper  Drinking  Cup 

Every  person  should  understand  the 
simple  method  of  making  a  paper 
drinking  cup.  It  may  be  necessary  at 
times  to  make  quick  use  of  medicine 
and  with  no  cup  or  spoon  convenient, 

A __B  -B 


F1S.3 


Folds  in  the  Paper 


F10.5 


the  pyramid-shaped  cup  shown  in  the 

sketch   is  a   useful   emergency  utensil. 

The  paper  cup  is  made  as  follows: 

Cut  the  paper  into  a  square  and  crease 


347 


it  on  the  dotted  lines,  AG,  F  B,  and 
C  D  E,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Fold  the 
paper  in  half  through  the  line  C  D  E  to 
form  a  rectangle,  Fig.  2.  Fold  points 
C  and  E  inward  until  they  meet  inside 
the  triangle  to  form  the  shape  shown  in 
Fig.  3.  This  makes  four  distinct  cor- 
ners, F,  G,  A  and  B.  Fold  the  paper 
over  on  the  dotted  line  and  bring  the 
points  A  and  B  together  as  in  Fig.  4. 
The  extreme  edges  meet  in  the  central 
line  indicated.  Reverse  the  paper  and 
fold  the  points  G  and  F  in  like  manner. 
Turn  the  points  A  B  and  F  G  inward 
and  fold  on  the  dotted  line,  and  you 
will  have  a  perfect  pyramid-shaped  cup 
as  shown  in  Fig.  5. — Ctintributed  by 
Miss  Margaret  S.  Humphreville,  Mt. 
Pleasant,  O. 


A  Hand  Corn  Sheller 

A  very  handy  device  for  shelling 
corn,  and  especially  popcorn,  can  be 
made  of  a  1-in.  board  on  which  is  fas- 


Metal  Lath  on  a  Board 


tened  a  piece  of  metal  lath.  The  edges 
of  the  metal  lath  are  bound  with  a  strip 
of  wood  nailed  to  the  board. — Contrib- 
uted by  Ulysses  Flacy,  Long  Beach, 
California. 


A  Shaft  Coupling 

In  connecting  a  small  Vs-'ip-  motor 
to  a  small  air  pump  where  both  shafts 
were  %  in.  in  diameter,  I  quickly  made 
a  coupling  that  would  save  the  wear  on 
the  machines,  as  follows.  The  coup- 
ling was  made  of  a  piece  of  %-in. 
brass  rod  with  a  %-in.  hole  drilled 
through  its  center.  One  end  of  the 
hole  was  enlarged  to  7-16  in.  for  about 
%  in.  The  end  of  the  coupling  having 
the  small  hole  was  slipped  on  the  pump 
shaft  and  fastened  with  two  setscrews. 
The  other  end  was  drilled  to  take  a 
pin  loosely,  the  pin  fitting  tightly  in  a 
hole  drilled  in  the  motor  shaft.     The 


pin  was  bent  at  one  end  so  as  to  keep 
it  from  falling  out  and  the  other  end 
fitted  with  two  nuts.     The  motor  shaft 


L.@.Q  A 


kwwmwM? 


3 


Coupling  on  the  Shafts 


being  a  little  loose  in  the  coupling,  gave 
it  a  chance  to  work  free  without  bind- 
ing.— Contributed  by  Leo  J.  Werner, 
New  York  City. 


Reading  the  Date  of  a  Worn  Coin 

The  date  and  denomination  of  a  coin 
worn  smooth  can  be  determined  in  the 
following  manner:  Take  an  ordinary 
coal  shovel,  or  a  piece  of  sheet  metal, 
and  place  it  in  a  hot  fire.  Allow  it  to 
become  red  hot,  then  remove,  and  place 
the  coin  on  the  hot  surface  of  the 
metal.  Any  figures  or  letters  can  be 
readily  seen  when  heated  in  this  man- 
ner. This  test  seldom  fails  even  when 
the  inscriptions  have  been  worn  so 
smooth  that  they  are  invisible  to  the 
naked  eye. 


Making  a  Knife  an  Easy  Opener 

The  large  blade  of  my  knife  being  so 
hard  to  open  placed  me  in  constant  risk 
of  breaking  my  thumbnail.  To  over- 
come this  difficulty,  I  ground  a  notch 
in  the  handle  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
After  smoothing  it  up  with  a  round  file 
and  fine  sandpaper,  I  had  just  as  good 
a  job  as  if  the  knife  had  been  made 
that  way,  and  it  is  very  easy  to  open 
it,  as  it  can  be  done  with  the  thumb 
and   forefinger.     Anyone  can   improve 


Notch  in  the  Handle 


his  knife  in  this  way,  but  be  careful  not 
to  cut  the  notch  back  of  the  point  of 
the  small  blade. — Contributed  by  C. 
M.  Mahood,  Warren,  Pa. 


348 


Construction  of  a  Small  Bell-Ringing  Transformer 

By  A.  E.   ANDREWS 

Part  I — Fundamental  Principles 


The  transformer  in  its  simplest  form 
consists  of  two  separate  and  electrically 
independent  coils  of  wire,  usually 
wound  upon  an  iron  core. 


Fig.  I  — Two  Coils  on   an   Iron  Ring 

Figure  1  shows  two  coils,  P  and  S, 
placed  upon  an  iron  ring,  R.  One  of 
these  coils  is  connected  to  some  source 
of  energy,  such  as  an  alternating-cur- 
rent generator,  or  an  alternating-cur- 
rent lighting  circuit,  receiving  its 
energy  therefrom.  The  other  coil  is 
connected  to  a  load  to  which  it  delivers 
alternating  current.  The  coil  of  the 
transformer  that  is  connected  to  the 
source  of  energy  is  called  the  primary 
coil,  and  the  one  that  is  connected  to 
the  load,  the  secondary  coil. 

The  electrical  pressure  (voltage)  at 
which  current  is  supplied  by  the  sec- 
ondary l)ears  a  definite  relation  to  the 
electrical  pressure  at  which  current  is 
supplied  to  the  primary.  This  relation, 
as  will  be  explained  later,  is  practically 
the  same  as  the  relation  between  the 
number  of  turns  in  the  secondary  and 
primary  coils.  If  there  are  a  smaller 
number  of  turns  in  the  secondary  coil 
than  there  are  in  the  primary,  the  sec- 
ondary voltage  is  less  than  the  primary, 
and  the  transformer  is  called  a  step- 
down  transformer.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  there  are  a  larger  number  of  sec- 
ondary turns  than  of  primary,  the  sec- 
ondary voltage  is  greater  than  the 
primary  voltage,  and  the  transformer 
is  called  a  step-up  transformer. 

The  transfer  of  electrical  energy 
from  the  primary  coil  to  the  secondary 
coil  of  a  transformer  is  based  upon  the 


fundamental  principles  of  electro- 
magnetism  and  electromagnetic  induc- 
tion, and  it  will  be  necessary  to 
investigate  these  principles  before  we 
can  understand  the  operation  of  the 
transformer. 

A  magnet  is  a  body,  which,  when 
freely  suspended,  assumes  approxi- 
mately a  north  and  south  position.  The 
end  of  the  magnet  that  points  north  is 
called  the  north  pole,  while  the  end 
that  points  south  is  called  the  south 
pole.  The  region  surrounding  a  mag- 
net is  called  a  magnetic  field.  In  this 
field  the  magnetism  is  supposed  to  flow 
along  a  large  number  of  imaginary 
lines,  called  lines  of  force,  and  these 
lines  are  all  supposed  to  emanate  from 
the  north  pole  of  the  magnet,  pass 
through  the  medium  surrounding  the 
magnet  and  enter  the  south  pole.  The 
magnetic  field  surrounding  a  bar  mag- 
net is  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  strength 
of  any  magnetic  field  depends  upon 
the  number  of  these  lines  of  force  per 
unit  area  (square  centimeter),  the  area 
being  taken  perpendicular  to  the  direc- 
tion of  the  lines. 

In  1813,  Oersted  discovered  that  a 
compass  needle,  which  is  nothing  but 
a  permanent  magnet  freely  suspended 
or  supported,  when  placed  near  a  con- 
ductor   in    which    there    was    a   direct 


:'(^ 


--,:;x\v. 


;' ;'  (  v^'»._' 


Fig.  2 — Magnetic   Field 

current,  was  acted  upon  by  a  force  that 
tended  to  bring  the  needle  into  a  posi- 
tion at  right  angles  to  the  conductor. 
This     simple     experiment     proved     to 


349 


Oersted  that  there  was  a  magnetic  field 
produced  by  the  current  in  the  conduc- 
tor. He  also  found  that  there  was  a 
definite  relation  between  the  direction 
of  the  current  in  the  conductor,  and 
the  direction  in  which  the  north  pole 
of  the  compass  needle  pointed.  If  the 
compass  needle  is  allowed  to  come  to 
rest  in  the  earth's  magnetic  field,  and 
a  conductor  is  placed  above  it,  the 
conductor  being  parallel  to  the  needle, 
and  a  current  then  sent  through  the 
conductor,  the  needle  will  be  deflected 
from  its  position  of  rest.  Reversing 
the  current  in  the  conductor,  reverses 
the  direction  in  which  the  needle  is 
deflected.  If  the  needle  be  allowed  to 
come  to  rest  while  there  is  a  current 
in  the  conductor,  and  this  current  is 
then  increased,  it  will  be  found  that 
the  deflection  of  the  needle  will  be  in- 
creased, but  not  in  direct  proportion  to 
the  increase  in  the  current.  Hence 
the  strength  of  this  magnetic  field  sur- 
rounding the  conductor  depends  upon 
the  value  of  the  current  in  the  conduc- 
tor, and  the  direction  of  the  field  de- 
pends upon  the  direction  of  the  current. 
If  a  conductor  be  passed  through  a 
piece  of  cardboard,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
3,  and  a  current  sent  through  it  in  the 
direction  indicated  by  the  arrow  A,  a 
compass  needle,  moved  about  the  con- 
ductor in  the  path  indicated  by  the 
dotted  line,  will  always  assume  such  a 
position  that  the  north  pole  points 
around    the   conductor   in   a   clockwise 


along  a  conductor  in  the  direction  of 
the  current,  the  magnetic  field  will 
consist  of  magnetic  lines  encircling  the 
conductor.     These   lines    will   be   con- 


Fig.  3 — Magnetic  Field  around  Conductor 

centric  circles,  as  a  general  rule,  ex- 
cept when  they  are  distorted  by  the 
presence  of  other  magnets  or  magnetic 
materials,  and  their  direction  will  be 
clockwise. 

The  strength  of  the  magnetic  field 
at  any  point  near  this  conductor  will 
depend  upon  the  value  of  the  current 
in  the  conductor,  and  the  distance  the 
point  is  from  the  conductor.  The 
magnetic  field  surrounding  a  conductor 
is  shown  in  Fig.  4.  The  plus  sign  in- 
dicates that  the  direction  of  the  cur- 
rent is  from  you.  The  strength  of  a 
magnetic  field  due  to  a  current  in  a 
conductor  can  be  greatly  increased  by 
forming  a  coil  of  the  conductor.  Each 
turn  of  the  coil  then  produces  a  certain 
number  of  lines,  and  the  greater  part 
of  these  lines  pass  through  the  center 
of  the  coil,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The 
field  strength  inside  such  a  coil  is  de- 
pendent upon  the  number  of  turns  in 


Fig.  4 — Magnetic  Field  Surrounding 
a  Conductor 


Fig.  5— Magnetic  Field  about  a 
Coil 


Fig.  6 — A  Coil  about  a  Magnetic  Circuit 
through   Iron   and  Air 


direction  as  you  look  down  on  the  card- 
board. If  the  current  be  reversed,  the 
direction  assumed  by  the  compass 
needle     will    be     reversed.       Looking 


the  coil,  and  the  value  of  the  current 
in  these  turns.  Increasing  the  number 
of  turns  in  the  coil  increases  the  num- 
ber of  magnetic  lines  passing  through 


350 


the  center  of  the  coil,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
6.  If  the  current  be  decreased  in  value, 
the  field  strength  is  decreased,  and  if 
the  current  be  reversed  in  direction, 
the  magnetic  field  is  reversed  in  direc- 


Fig.  7 —  A  Coil  about  a  Magnetic  Circuit  througii  Iron 

tion.  The  number  of  magnetic  lines 
passing  through  the  solenoid  depends 
also  upon  the  kind  of  material  compos- 
ing the  core  of  the  solenoid,  in  addition 
to  the  number  of  turns  and  the  value  of 
the  current  in  these  turns.  The  num- 
ber of  lines  per  unit  area  inside  a  sole- 
noid with  an  air  core  can  be  multiplied 
several  times  by  introducing  a  soft-iron 
core.  If  this  core  be  extended  as 
shown  in  Fig.  7,  the  magnetic  circuit 
(the  path  through  which  the  magnetic 
lines  pass)  may  be  completed  through 
it.  The  larger  part  of  the  total  num- 
ber of  lines  will  pass  through  the  iron, 
as  it  is  a  much  better  conductor  of 
magnetism  than  air. 

In  18.31,  Michael  Faraday  discovered 
that  there  was  an  electrical  pressure 
induced  in  an  electrical  conductor 
when  it  was  moved  in  a  magnetic  field 
so  that  it  cut  some  of  the  lines  forming 
the  field.  If  this  conductor  be  made 
to  form  part  of  a  closed  electrical  cir- 
cuit, there  will  be  a  current  produced 
in  the  circuit  as  a  result  of  the  in- 
duced electrical  pressure.  The  value  of 
this  induced  electrical  pressure  depends 
upon  the  number  of  magnetic  lines  of 
force  that  the  conductor  cuts  in  one 
second.  If  100,000,(100  lines  are  cut  in 
one  second,  an  electrical  pressure  of 
one  volt  is  produced.  The  direction  of 
the  induced  pressure  depends  upon  the 
direction  of  the  movement  of  the  con- 
ductor and  the  direction  of  the  lines 
of  force  in  the  magnetic  field ;  revers- 


ing either  the  direction  of  the  magnetic 
field  or  the  motion  of  the  conductor, 
reverses  the  direction  of  the  induced 
pressure.  If  both  the  direction  of  the 
magnetic  field,  and  the  direction  of  the 
motion  of  the  conductor  be  reversed, 
there  is  no  change  in  the  direction  of 
the  induced  pressure,  for  there  is  then 
no  change  in  the  relative  directions  of 
the  two.  The  same  results  can  be  ob- 
tained by  moving  the  magnetic  field 
with  respect  to  the  conductor  in  such 
a  way  that  the  lines  of  force  of  the 
field  cut  the  conductor. 

If  a  permanent  magnet  be  thrust 
into  a  coil  of  wire,  there  will  be  an 
electrical  pressure  set  up  in  the  coil 
so  long  as  the  turns  of  wire  forming 
the  coil  are  cutting  the  lines  of  force 
that  are  produced  by  the  magnet. 
When  the  magnet  is  withdrawn,  the 
induced  electrical  pressure  will  be  re- 
versed in  direction,  since  the  direc- 
tion of  cutting  is  reversed.  A  mag- 
netic field  may  be  produced  through  a 
coil  of  wire  by  winding  it  on  the  mag- 
netic circuit  shown  in  Fig.  8.  Now 
any  change  of  current  in  the  coil  P  will 
cause  a  change  in  the  number  of  mag- 
netic lines  passing  through  S  and 
hence  there  will  be  an  induced  electri- 
cal pressure  set  up  in  S  so  long  as  the 
number  of  lines  passing  through  it  is 
changing.     The    pressure    induced    in 


Fig.  8— Two  Coils  about  a  Magnetic  Circuit  through  Iron 

each  of  the  turns  comprising  the  coil 
S  depends  upon  the  change  in  the  num- 
ber of  magnetic  lines  through   it. 

Let  us  now  consider  a  condition  of 
operation  when  there  is  no  current  in 


351 


the  secondary  coil  and  the  primary  coil 
is  connected  to  some  source  of  electri- 
cal energy.  When  this  is  the  case  the 
current  in  the  primary  coil  is  not  de- 
termined by  Ohm's  law,  which  states 
that  the  current  is  equal  to  the  elec- 
trical pressure  divided  by  the  resist- 
ance, but  is  considerably  less  in  value, 
for  the  following  reason.  The  mag- 
netic lines  of  force  produced  by  the 
current  in  the  primary  induces  an  elec- 
trical pressure  in  the  primary  winding 
itself,  the  direction  of  which  is  always 
opposite  to  the  impressed  pressure,  or 
the  one  producing  the  current.  As  a 
result  of  this  induced  pressure  be- 
ing set  up  in  the  primary,  the  elTec- 
tive  pressure  acting  in  the  circuit 
is  decreased.  At  the  same  time  there 
is  an  electrical  pressure  induced  in  the 
secondary  winding  in  the  same  direc- 
tion as  that  induced  in  the  primary. 

If  the  secondary  circuit  be  connected 
to  a  load,  there  will  be  a  current  in  the 
secondary  winding,  which  will  pass 
around  the  magnetic  circuit  in  the  op- 
posite direction  to  the  primary  current, 
and  as  a  result  will  decrease  the  num- 
ber of  lines  passing  through  the  pri- 
mary coil.  This  will  in  turn  decrease 
the  electrical  pressure  induced  in  the 
primary  coil,  and  a  larger  current  will 
exist  in  the  primary  winding  than  there 


was  before  any  current  was  taken  from 
the  secondary  coil.  The  decrease  in 
induced  pressure  is  small,  but  it  is  al- 
ways ample  to  allow  the  required  in- 
crease in  primary  current.  There  is, 
at  the  same  time,  a  small  decrease  in 
the  secondary  pressure. 

When  the  transformer  is  operating 
on  no  load,  with  no  current  in  the  sec- 
ondary coil,  the  induced  pressure  in  the 
primary  coil  is  practically  equal  to  the 
impressed  pressure  and  hence  a  very 
small  current  will  be  taken  from  the 
source  of  energy.  It  is  apparent  now 
that  if  the  primary  and  secondary  coils 
have  the  same  number  of  turns,  the  in- 
duced electrical  pressure  in  each  of 
these  coils  will  be  the  same,  assuming, 
of  course,  that  all  the  magnetic  lines 
that  pass  through  the  primary  also 
pass  through  the  secondary  coil,  and 
vice  versa,  or  the  secondary  pressure  is 
practically  the  same  as  the  pressure 
impressed  on  the  primary.  If  the 
number  of  turns  in  the  secondary  coil 
is  greater  or  less  than  the  number  of 
turns  in  the  primary,  the  magnetic 
lines  will  be  cut  a  greater  or  less  num- 
ber of  times  by  the  secondary  coil,  and 
hence  the  induced  pressure  will  be 
greater  or  less,  depending  upon  the  re- 
lation of  the  number  of  turns  in  the 
two  coils. 


Spirit  Photographs 


Print  some  photographs  in  the  usual 
way  on  printing-out  paper,  then  fix 
them  in  a  solution  of  1  oz.  hyposul- 
phite of  soda  and  8  oz.  of  water,  and 
wash  them  thoroughly.  While  the 
prints  are  still  wet,  immerse  them  in  a 
saturated  solution  of  bichloride  of  mer- 
cury. Be  very  careful  to  wash  the 
hands  and  trays  after  using  the  mer- 
cury solution,  as  it  is  poisonous.  When 
the  print  is  placed  in  the  mercury  so- 
lution, the  picture  vanishes  completely. 
Leave  the  prints  in  this  bath  just  long 
enough  for  the  image  to  disappear, 
and  then  wash  and  dry  them  thor- 
oughly. Soak  some  clean  blotting 
paper  in  the  hyposulphite-of-soda  solu- 


tion and  allow  it  to  dry.  You  are  now 
ready  to  perform  the  magic-photograph 
trick. 

To  cause  the  spirit  photograph  to 
appear,  cut  a  piece  of  blotting  paper 
the  same  size  as  the  prepared  print  and 
moisten  it,  then  hold  the  apparently 
blank  piece  of  paper  in  contact  with  it. 
The  picture  will  come  out  clear  and 
plain,  and  if  thoroughly  washed  out 
it   will   remain   permanently. 


CSaturate  a  small  piece  of  cotton  bat- 
ting in  glue  and  wrap  it  around  a  nail, 
then  place  it  in  a  hole  previously  made 
in  a  plaster  wall.  When  the  glue  dries, 
the  nail  will  remain  permanently. 


352 

G)nstruction  of  a  Small  Bell-Ringing  Transformer 

By  A.  E.  ANDREWS 
PART  II  — Construction 


Transformers  may  be  divided  into 
tviro  main  groups,  the  classification  be- 
ing made  according  to  the  relation 
between  the  magnetic  circuit  of  the 
transformer  and  the  primary  and  sec- 
ondary windings.  When  the  two 
windings  surround  the  magnetic  cir- 
cuit of  a  transformer,  as  indicated  in 
Fig.  9,  the  transformer  is  said  to  be  of 


;   i 

■     r 

^  W(NDINGS   

■■- 

J 

Fig.  9 — Core-Type  Transformer 


Fig.  10— Shell-Type  Transformer 


core  type.  If  the  magnetic  circuit 
surrounds  the  windings,  as  indicated 
in  Fig.  10,  the  transformer  is  said  to 
be  of  the  shell  type.  The  following  in- 
structions are  for  a  shell-type  trans- 
former. 

Any  mass  of  magnetic  material, 
such  as  a  piece  of  soft  iron,  when 
placed  in  a  magnetic  field  that  is  pro- 
duced by  an  alternating  current,  will 
be  rapidly  magnetized  and  demag- 
netized, the  rapidity  of  the  change  de- 
pending upon  the  frequency  of  the 
current  producing  the  field.  When  a 
piece  of  iron  is  magnetized  and  de- 
magnetized, as  just  stated,  there  will 
be  a  certain  amount  of  heat  generated 
in  it  and  this  heat  represents  energy 
that  must  come  from  the  electrical  cir- 
cuit producing  the  magnetic  field  in 
which  the  iron  is  placed. 

The  heat  that  is  generated  in  the 
iron  is  due  to  two  causes:  First,  the 
hysteresis  loss  which  is  due  to  a  prop- 
erty of  the  iron  that  causes  the  mag- 
netism in  the  iron  to  lag  behind  the 
magnetizing  influence,  or  the  changes 
that  are  constantly  taking  place  in  the 
field  strength  due  to  the  alternating 
current.     This  loss  cannot  be  entirely 


eliminated,  but  it  may  be  reduced  to  a 
very  low  value  by  using  a  soft  grade  of 
iron,  or  one  having  what  is  called  a 
low  hysteretic  constant.  Second,  the 
eddy-current  loss  which  is  due  to  the 
circulation  of  currents  through  the 
mass  of  metal.  These  currents  are 
due  to  unequal  electromotive  forces  set 
up  in  the  different  parts  of  the  piece 
of  metal  when  there  is 
a  change  in  the 
strength  of  the  field  in 
which  the  metal  is 
placed.  This  loss  can- 
not be  entirely  elimi- 
nated, but  it  can  be 
greatly  reduced  by 
breaking  the  mass  of 
metal  up  into  parts  and  insulating  these 
parts  from  each  other,  which  results 
in  the  paths  in  which  the  eddy  currents 
originally  circulated  being  destroyed  to 
a  certain  extent. 

The  breaking  up  of  the  metal  is 
usually  made  in  such  a  way  that  the 
joints  between  the  various  parts  are 
parallel  to  the  direction  of  the  mag- 
netic field.  When  the  joints  are  made 
in  this  way,  they  offer  less  opposition 
to  the  magnetizing  force.  This  is  one 
of  the  principal  reasons  why  induction- 
coil  cores  are  made  up  of  a  bundle  of 
wires  instead  of  a  solid  piece.  These 
wires  are  annealed  or  softened  to  re- 
duce the  hysteresis  loss  that  would 
occur.  The  combined  hysteresis  and 
eddy-current  losses,  which  are  spoken 
of  as  the  iron  losses,  will  of  course  be 
very  small  in  the  transformer  you  are 
going  to  construct,  but  the  above  dis- 
cussion is  given  to  show  why  the  mag- 
netic circuits  of  transformers  are  built 
up  from  sheets  of  soft  iron,  called  lam- 
inations. The  core  is  said  to  be 
laminated. 

The  dimensions  of  the  complete  mag- 
netic circuit,  of  the  transformer  you 
are   going   to  construct,   are   given    in 


353 


Fig.  11.  The  primary  and  secondary 
windings  are  both  to  be  placed  about 
the  center  portion  C,  and  it  is  apparent 
that  the  winding  of  these  coils  would 
be  very  tedious  if  the  wire  had  to  be 
passed  back  and  forth  through  the 
openings  A  and  B.  This  procedure  in 
winding  can  be  prevented  by  first 
forming  the  part  of  the  magnetic  cir- 
cuit upon  which  the  windings  are 
placed ;  then  wind  on  the  coils  and, 
after  they  are  completed,  finish  build- 
ing up  the  magnetic  circuit  with  pieces 
cut  to  the  proper  size  and  shape. 

Procure  a  small  quantity  of  soft, 
thin  sheet  iron  and  cut  out  a  sufficient 
number  of  rectangular  pieces,  3  in.  by 
414  in.,  to  make  a  pile  %  in.  in  height 
when  firmly  pressed  together.  Now 
cut  a  rectangular  notch  in  each  of  these 
pieces,  2  in.  wide  and  3%  in.  long.  The 
sides  of  this  notch  can  be  cut  with  a 
pair  of  tinner's  shears,  and  the  end 
can  be  cut  with  a  sharp  cold-chisel. 
Be  careful  not  to  bend  either  piece 
any  more  than  you  can  help.  The  out- 
side piece,  or  the  one  in  which  the 
notch  is  cut,  should  have  dimensions 
corresponding  to  those  given  in  Fig. 
12.  When  all  of  these  pieces  have  been 
cut,  as  indicated  above,  the  rectangular 
pieces,  2  in.  by  3%  in.,  that  were  cut 
out  to  form  the  notch  in  the  larger 
pieces,  should  have  two  of  their  corners 
cut  away,  so  as  to  form  pieces  whose 
dimensions  correspond  to  those  given 
in  Fig.  13.  These  last  pieces  are  to 
form  the  core  and  part  of  the  end  of 
the  transformer.    Now  make  sure  that 


Now  cut  from  a  piece  of  insulating 
fiber,  that  is  about  -^^  in.  thick,  two 
pieces  whose  dimensions  correspond  to 
those  given  in  Fig.  14.  When  these 
pieces  are  completed,  the  core  of  the 
transformer  can  be  assembled  as  fol- 
lows :  Place  the  T-shaped  pieces,  whose 
dimensions  correspond  to  those  given 
in  Fig.  13,  through  the  openings  in  the 
pieces  of  insulation,  alternate  pieces 
being  put  through  the  openings  from 
opposite  sides.  The  distance  from  out- 
side to  outside  of  the  pieces  of  insula- 
tion should  be  exactly  the  same  as  the 
length  of  the  vertical  portion  of  the  T- 
shaped  pieces  forming  the  core,  or  3  in. 

Cut  from  some  soft  wood  four  pieces 
having  cross  sections  whose  dimen- 
sions correspond  to  those  given  in  Fig. 
15,  and  of  such  a  length  that  they  will 
just  slip  down  between  the  two  pieces 
of  insulation.  These  pieces  should  now 
be  placed  on  the  four  sides  of  the  iron 
core  and  covered  with  several  layers  of 
heavy  insulating  cloth.  Each  layer  of 
the  cloth  should  be  shellacked  as  it  is 
put  on,  which  will  increase  the  insula- 
tion and  at  the  same  time  help  in  hold- 
ing the  wooden  pieces  in  place.  You 
are  now  ready  to  start  winding  the 
transformer. 

The  secondary,  which  is  the  low- 
voltage  side  in  this  case,  as  you  are 
using  the  transformer  to  reduce  or  step 
down  the  voltage,  will  have  the  smaller 
number  of  turns,  and  larger  wire 
should  be  used  in  winding  it  than  in 
the  primary,  as  it  will  carry  a  larger 
current.     On  account  of  the  secondary 


T 

•"a"* 

0 
A 

—  J'^ 

0 

B 

-i'- 

-1- 

"Kj 

iS 

J 

■   •?."' 

'-i-t 

35" 

I 

. 

J 

n^ 

c 

_ 

.  ( 

XMO 

1 

.J 

-.(Vl 

1 

U1.C0 

1 

Fis 

.11- 

Comp 
Cir 

lete^ 
:uit 

/lagn 

e 

tic 

Fig.  1 

2  — 

Outer  Portion  of  the  Mag 
netic  Circuit 

F 

ig.  13 

—  Inner    Portion    of  the 
Magnetic  Circuit 

all  the  edges  of  the  pieces  are  perfectly 
smooth  and  that  they  are  all  of  the 
same  size ;  then  give  each  one  a  coat  of 
very  thin  shellac. 


being  of  larger  wire,  it  will  be  placed  on 
the  core  first.  For  this  winding  you 
will  need  a  small  quantity  of  No.  26  B. 
&  S.  gau 


e,  single  cotton-covered  wire. 


354 


Drill  a  small  hole  through  one  of  the 
insulating  washers,  down  close  to  the 
cloth  covering  the  core,  being  careful 
at  the  same  time  to  keep  the  hole  as  far 


/                " " 

"^ 

•a 

t—3" 

15    1 

4 

9" 

-o^ 

~I6 

, 

4 

Fig.  14  — Insulating  'Washer  Fig.  15— Wood  Filler 

from  the  metal  part  of  the  core  as  pos- 
sible. Pass  the  end  of  a  short  piece  of 
No.  18  or  20  B.  &  S.  gauge,  double 
cotton-covered  wire  through  this  open- 
ing and  solder  it  to  the  end  of  the  No. 
26  wire.  Insulate  the  joint  with  a  piece 
of  paraffin  paper  or  cloth,  and  bind  the 
piece  of  heavy  wire  to  the  core  of  the 
transformer  with  a  piece  of  linen 
thread. 

Now  wind  the  No.  26  wire  on  the 
core  as  evenly  as  possible,  to  within 
about  1/8  in.  of  the  end  of  the  spool. 
Place  over  the  first  layer  two  layers  of 
paraffin  paper  and  wind  on  a  second 
layer  of  wire.  Three  layers  should 
give  you  the  required  number  of  turns 
in  the  secondary  winding  and  a  resist- 
ance of  approximately  sy^  ohms.  The 
end  of  the  secondary  winding  should 
be  terminated  in  the  same  way  as  the 
winding  was  started.  Outside  of  the 
completed  secondary  winding  place  at 
least  six  layers  of  paraffin  paper,  or 
several  layers  of  insulating  cloth.  The 
paraffin  paper  used  should  be  approxi- 
mately five  mills  in  thickness.  You 
can  make  your  own  paraffin  paper  by 
taking  a  good  quality  of  writing  paper 
about  two  mills  thick  and  dipping  it 
into  some  hot  paraffin,  then  hanging  it 
up  by  one  edge  to  drain. 

The  primary  winding  is  to  be  made 
from  No.  34  B.  &  S.  gauge,  single  silk- 
covered  copper  wire.  The  inside  end 
of  this  winding  should  be  started  in 
the  same  way  as  the  secondary,  but  at 
the  end  opposite  to  the  one  where  the 
secondary    terminated.      Wind    about 


240  turns  on  each  layer  and  place  one 
layer  of  paraffin  paper  between  each 
layer  of  wire.  The  primary  winding 
should  have  at  least  13  layers,  and  the 
outside  end  should  be  terminated  as 
the  inside  end.  Outside  of  the  com- 
pleted windings,  place  several  layers  of 
insulating  cloth  to  serve  as  an  insula- 
tion, and  at  the  same  time  provide  a 
mechanical  protection  for  the  windings. 

The  outside  part  of  the  magnetic 
circuit  can  now  be  put  in  place.  When 
the  U-shaped  pieces  are  all  in  place, 
the  magnetic  circuit  will  have  the  form 
and  dimensions  shown  in  Fig.  11.  A 
clamp  should  now  be  made  for  each 
end  of  the  transformer,  to  hold  the 
pieces  forming  the  magnetic  circuit  to- 
gether, and  at  the  same  time  give  an 
easy  means  of  mounting  the  trans- 
former. Cut  from  a  piece  of  sheet 
iron,  about  -j^iy  in.  in  thickness,  two 
pieces  whose  dimensions  correspond  to 
those  given  in  Fig.  16,  and  two  pieces 
whose  dimensions  correspond  to  those 
given  in  Fig.  17.  Drill  the  holes  in 
these  pieces  as  indicated,  and  bend  the 
larger  ones  into  the  form  shown  in  Fig. 
18.  These  pieces  can  now  be  clamped 
across  the  ends  of  the  transformer  with 
small  bolts,  as  shown  in  Fig.  19. 

A  box  should  now  be  made  from 
sheet  iron  to  hold  the  transformer. 
The  box  should  be  of  such  dimensions 
that  it  will  be  at  least  %  in.  from  the 
transformer  at  all  points.  This  box 
should  be  provided  with  a  cover  that 
can  be  easily  removed. 

Now  mount  the  transformer  in  the 
box  by  means  of  small  bolts,  that  pass 
through  the  holes  in  the  supports  and 
holes  in  the  bottom  of  the  box.  Two 
binding-posts  can  now  be  mounted  on 
one  end  of  the  box,  and  insulated  from 
it,  to  serve  as  terminals  for  the  sec- 
ondary winding.  Two  pieces  of 
stranded  No.  14  B.  &  S.  gauge,  rubber- 
covered  copper  wire  should  now  be 
soldered  to  the  terminals  of  the 
primary  circuit  and  passed  out  through 
insulating  bushings  mounted  in  holes 
cut  in  the  end  of  the  box  opposite  to 
the  one  upon  which  the  binding-posts 
were  mounted.  These  heavy  wires 
should  be  firmlv  fastened  to  the  iron 


355 


part  of  the  transformer  inside  the  box, 
so  that  any  outside  strain  placed  upon 
them  will  not,  in  time,  break  them  loose 
from    the   smaller   wires.      Be   sure   to 


wiring  for  lights,  and  connected  to  the 
heavy  wires,  or  primary  circuit.  The 
binding-posts,  or  secondary  winding 
should  be  connected  to  the  bell  circuit 


-3i- 


SMALL  BOLTS  - 


Fig.  15  —  Upper  Clamping 
Pieces 


Fig.  17 — Lower  Clamping  Pieces     Fig.  18 — Shape 
and  Mounting  Supports  of  Support 


Fig.  19  —  Method  of  Clamping 
Transformer  Together 


insulate  all  joints  and  wires  well  inside 
the  box. 

A  circuit  can  now  be  run  from  a  110- 
volt  lighting  or  power  circuit,  observ- 
ing the  same  rules  as  though  you  were 


and  the  transformer  is  complete  and 
ready  to  operate.  You  may  have  to 
change  the  adjustment  of  the  bells, 
but  after  a  little  adjustment  they  will 
operate  quite  satisfactorily. 


^ 


Mirror  Hinged  to  Window  Casing 

A  shaving  mirror  is  usually  placed 
on  a  window  sash  to  avoid  shadows  as 
much  as  possible.     This  is  very  incon- 
venient       and 
««MHi    U       many    times    the 
o  mirror  is  broken 

by  a  fall.  A 
good  way  to 
avoid  shadows 
and  have  the 
mirror  handy  is 
to  hinge  it  to 
the  window  cas- 
ing. This  can  be 
done  with  screw- 
eyes,  A,  and  screwhooks,  B.  The 
screweyes  are  turned  into  the  frame  of 
the  mirror  and  the  screwhooks  into  the 
window  casing.  Two  screwhooks  can 
also  be  turned  into  the  casing  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  window,  if  desired, 
so  that  the  mirror  can  be  used  on  either 
side. — Contributed  by  James  D.  Mc- 
Kenna,  New  Britain,  Conn. 


A  Cleaning  Bath  for  Silverware 

A  good  way  to  clean  silverware  of 
all  coloring  by  eggs  or  other  substances 
is  to  place  the  .«,ilver  articles  in  a  kettle 
of  boiling  water  containing  a  few 
pieces  of  zinc,     An  electrolytic  action 


is  produced  by  the  zinc,  water  and  sil- 
ver which  decomposes  the  sulphides 
on  the  silver  and  leaves  it  well  cleaned. 
No  silver  is  taken  away  by  this  method. 
— Contributed  by  Loren  Ward,  Des 
Moines,  Iowa. 


To  Prevent  Poultry  Water  from 
Freezing 

The  method  shown  in  the  sketch  is 
used  by  me  in  cold  weather  to  keep  the 
drinking  water  for  the  poultry  from 
freezing.  The  device  consists  of  a  part 
of  a  barrel  inverted  and  set  over  the 
fountain,  and  a  tubular  lantern.  A 
small  opening  is  cut  in  one  side  of  the 


Lantern  and  Fountain  in  Half  Barrel 

barrel  through  which  the  fowl  can 
reach  the  water. — Contributed  by  P. 
C.  Fish,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 


356 


How  to  Make  a  Letter  Scale 

A  reliable  letter  scale  that  can  l)e  eas- 
ily made  is  shown  in  the  sketch.  It 
consists  of  a  wide-neck  bottle  filled 
with  water  into 
which  the  weighing 
device  is  inserted. 
This  latter  part  is 
made  of  a  light  piece 
of  wood  weighted  on 
the  lower  end,  to 
keep  it  in  a  stable, 
upright  position,  and 
a  piece  of  cardboard 
is  tacked  to  the 
other.  The  wood  is 
placed  in  the  water, 
and  known  weights 
are  used  on  the  card- 
board while  calibrating. 

The  first  line  is  marked  at  the  water 
level  when  there  is  no  weight  on  the 
cardboard,  and  then  a  known  weight 
placed  on  the  top  and  another  mark 
made  at  the  water  level,  and  so  on,  un- 
til a  sufficient  number  of  %-oz.  and 
ounce-divisions  have  been  marked. 
The  wood  should  be  well  coated  with 
shellac  varnish  before  it  is  placed  in 
the  water. — Contributed  by  Francis 
Chetlain,  Chicago. 


Summer  Dish  Washing 

A  labor-saving  method  in  dish  wash- 
ing for  a  summer  day  is  as  follows: 
Construct  a  substantial  wood  frame 
and  cover  it  with  galvanized  wire 
mesh.  Attach  legs  and  put  it  in  a  con- 
venient place  on  the  back  porch.  Wash 
the  dishes  on  one  end.  and  wipe  the 
silverware  dry.  At  the  outer  end 
spread  a  towel  over  the  wire  and  place 
the  dishes  turned  down  upon  it  to  dry, 
and  cover  them  with  another  towel. — 
Contributed  by  L.  Alberta  Norrell, 
Tifton,  Ga. 


Nozzle   Angle  for   Lawn   Sprinkling 

\\'here  there  is  no  prop  or  water 
sprinkler  at  hand  for  tilting  the  nozzle 
of  a  hose,  start 
to  tie  a  knot  in 
the  hose,  as 
shown  in  the 
sketch,  but  do 
not  draw  it  up 
tightly.  The 
hose    nozzle    can 

be  tilted  to  any  angle  in  this  manner. 
— Contributed  by  S.  J.  Eddy,  Portland, 
Oregon. 


Simple    Methods    of   Connecting    Call    Bells 


The  following  diagrams  will  indi- 
cate a  few  of  the  various  methods  that 
may  be  employed  in  connecting  up 
electric  bells  for  different  purposes,  A, 
B  and  C  representing  the  push  buttons; 
D,  the  bells ;  E,  the  batteries,  and  G, 
the  ground.  The  simplest  possible 
connection  is  shown  in  Fig.  1,  the  bell 


in  which  the  bell,  battery,  and  push 
button  are  placed,  so  long  as  there  is  a 
complete  circuit  when  the  push  but- 
ton is  pressed.  One  of  the  wires  in 
this  circuit  may  be  done  away  with  by 
completing  the  circuit  through  the 
ground,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  Connect- 
ing a   bell   as   shown   in   this  dia2:ram 


Hilh 


Fig. 2  _ 

■Wiring  Diagrams  for  a  Single  Bell 


m 


j^ 


D,  battery  E,  and  push  button  A,  are 
all  connected  in  series.  The  operation 
of  the  bell  is  independent  of  the  order 


often  results  in  quite  a  saving  of  wire. 
The  proper  connections  for  operat- 
ing one  bell  from  either  of  two  push 


357 


buttons,  A  or  B,  is  shown  in  Fig.  3. 
Two  bells,  D,  operated  from  a  single 
push  button,  C,  are  connected  as  shown 


In  the  circuits  shown  in  Figs.  7  and  8, 
only  one  battery  is  needed. 

The  connections  of  a  two-wire  me- 


B  C0 


rjG.5 

Wiring    Diagram    for   T%vo  or  More   Bells 


in  Fig.  4.  The  two  bells,  D,  are  shown 
connected  in  parallel,  which  requires 
more  wire  than  if  they  were  connected 
in  series.  If  they  be  connected  in  ser- 
ies, one  or  the  other  should  have  its 
make-and-break  contact  closed.  The 
bell  whose  circuit  remains  unchanged 
will  intercept  the  current  for  the  other 
bell  in  series  with  it.  The  operating 
of  the  bells  is  more  satisfactory,  how- 
ever, when  they  are  in  parallel,  and 
each  taking  current  from  the  battery 
independent  of  the  other. 

The  diagram,  Fig.  5,  shows  the 
proper  connections  for  operating  two 
bells  from  two  independent  push  but- 
tons, each  push  button  operating  a  par- 
ticular bell.  Any  number  of  bells 
operated  from  any  number  of  push 
buttons,  all  of  the  bells  being  rung 
from  any  one  of  the  push  buttons,  are 
connected  as  shown  in  Fig.  6.  Such 
a  circuit  can  be  used  as  a  fire  alarm  or 
time  call  in  a  factory,  the  operation  of 
the  circuit  being  controlled  from  any 
one  of  a  number  of  different  points. 

The  proper  connections  for  what  is 
called  a  return-call  circuit  is  shown  in 
Fig.  7.  The  circuit  is  so  arranged  that 
the  bell  at  one  end  is  controlled  by 
the  push  button  at  the  other  end.    Such 


tallic  return-call  circuit  are  shown  in 
Fig.  9.  A  special  push  button  must  be 
used  in  this  circuit,  and  in  this  case 
two  batteries  are  used  instead  of  one, 
as  in  Figs.  7  and  8.  This  circuit  may 
be  changed  to  a  ground  return-call 
circuit  by  using  the  earth  as  a  con- 
ductor instead  of  either  wire.  There 
are,  of  course,  numerous  other  meth- 
ods that  may  be  used  in  connecting 
call  bells,  but  the  connections  shown 
in  the  diagrams  are  perhaps  the  most 
common. 


Refrigerator   for    Dry   and   Warm 
Climates 

Set  a  bowl  containing  butter,  cream 
or  fruit  in  a  saucer  and  cover  the  bowl 
with  a  moistened  napkin,  allowing  the 
edges  to  hang  in  a  larger  saucer  tilled 
with  water,  and  place  the  whole  in 
the  air  out  of  the  sun's  rays.  The  arti- 
cle to  be  kept  cool  may  also  be  placed 
in  a  pan  with  an  earthenware  crock 
turned  over  it  and  covered  with  a 
small  towel  or  cloth,  the  edges  of 
which  extend  into  another  outer  pan 
partly  filled  with  water. 

The  method  can  be  applied  on  a 
larger  scale   by   using  a   shallow   gal- 


Fis  7 


Fis.8  ■  G  F10.9 

Wiring   Diagrams   for   Return-Call   Bells 

a  circuit  can  be  used  in  transmitting  vanized  pan  which  will  contain  many 
signals  in  either  direction.  A  ground  articles  and  more  water.  This  man- 
return-call  circuit  is  shown  in  Fig.  8.      ner  of  cooling  is  especially  adapted  to 


358 


camping  parties  and  will  prevent 
sloppy  butter,  sour  milk  and  spoiling 
fruit.  The  articles  are  also  kept  free 
from  ants  and  flies. — Contributed  by 
C.  B.  Hosford,  Swansea,  Ariz. 


Pencil-Sharpening    Guide 

The  sketch  shows  how  a  guide  for 
making  a  true  point  on  a  lead  pencil 
may  be  made  of  a  block  of  wood.  The 
hole,  which  should  be 
large  enough  to  allow 
the  pencil  to  be  turned 
easily,  is  bored  at  the 
proper  angle  to  form 
the  desired  point  on 
the  pencil.  The  long 
side  of  the  block 
serves  as  a  guide  for 
the  knife  blade,  while 
the  projection  at  the 
bottom  acts  as  a 
stop.  The  guide 
insures  an  even 
point  and  is  eas- 
ily manipulated.  It  is  held  in  the  palm 
of  the  left  hand  and  the  pencil  is  turned 
with  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  while 
the  knife  is  held  against  the  face  of  the 
block,  cutting  edge  downward,  and 
worked  up  and  down  with  the  right 
hand. 


Homemade  Hinges 
When   making  a   chicken   house   re- 


cently    I     had 
hinges.     When 


forgotten  to  procure 
searching  the  "junk" 
box  I  found 
some  little  metal 
brackets  such  as 
used  for  holding 
spring  roller 
shades.  Attach- 
ing these  as 
shown,  I  made 
a  good  substi- 
tute hinge.  A 
pair  of  the 
brackets  having 
no  slots  were 
selected.  A  2^2" 
in.  wire  nail  with  a  washer  was  placed 


in  the  hole  and  driven  into  the  top  of 
the  door,  1  in.  from  its  back  edge.  The 
other  bracket  was  placed  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  door  in  a  similar  manner. 
The  door  was  placed  in  an  open  posi- 
tion and  the  prongs  of  the  brackets 
were  nailed  to  the  door  post.  The  bot- 
tom bracket  may  also  be  nailed  to  the 
floor  and  the  top  one  to  the  lintel. — 
Contributed  by  Robert  Smith,  E. 
Burnaby,  B.  C. 


Skimmer  for  Bottled  Milk 

The  cream  that  rises  on  the  milk  in 
an  ordinary  milk  bottle  cannot  be  re- 
moved easily.     Where  a  small  family 
desires    to    use    the 
cream  for  coffee,  the 
skimmer    shown     in 
the   sketch   is  very 
handy. 

The  cone  is  made 
of  metal — tin,  brass 
or  copper — w  h  i  c  h 
can  be  nickelplated, 
the  seam  being 
soldered.  The  cone 
is  2  in.  deep  with  a 
diameter  at  the  top 
of  1%  in.  A  handle 
can  be  made  of  a 
discarded  sugar  or  teaspoon,  which  is 
soldered  to  the  cone.  Insert  the  cone 
in  the  bottle  far  enough  for  the  cream 
to  flow  into  it  and  then  withdraw. 
Cream  will  gather  about  ,'i  in.  deep  on 
rich  milk.  The  milk  can  be  used  for 
cooking.  A  piece  of  wire  can  be  used 
for  a  handle  instead  of  the  spoon. — 
Contributed  by  Victor  Labadie,  Dallas, 
Texas. 


How  to  Preserve  Putty 

Having  some  putty  left  over  after  a 
job  of  glazing  and  wishing  to  keep  it 
without  its  becoming  dried  up,  I  tried 
wrapping  it  in  paraffin  paper  such  as 
used  to  wrap  butter.  I  found  this 
method  to  be  a  decided  success,  the 
oil  being  prevented  from  drying  out. 
— Contributed  by  Levi  R.  Markwood, 
Fairview,  Pa. 


359 


How  to  Build  a  Simple  Electric  Motor 


By  A.  G.  McCLURE 


An  exceedingly  simple  and  inexpen- 
sive motor  that  may  be  used  in  operat- 
ing small  toys  can  be  constructed  as 
follows :  First  procure  a  good  per- 
manent magnet,  about  5  in.  long  and 
about  114' in.  between  the  inside  edges 
at  the  open  end.  This  magnet  should 
be  at  least  %  in.  thick,  and  if  it  can- 
not be  had  in  one  piece,  two  or  more 
may  be  placed  side  by  side,  like  poles 
being  placed  together.  The  writer 
was  unable  to  procure  ready-made 
magnets,  so  one  was  formed  and  mag- 
netized. Obtain  a  piece  of  tungsten 
or  some  other  good-grade  steel,  14  in. 
by  y^  in.,  and  about  11  in.  long.  Bend 
this  piece  into  the  form  of  a  U,  with 
the  inner  edges  1%  in.  apart.  Square 
off  both  ends  and  drill  two  small  holes 
in  the  outside  surface  of  each  end,  at 
AA,  about  %  in.  from  the  end.  Tap 
these  holes  for  small  machine  screws. 
Drill  the  hole  B  with  a  small  drill, 
about  jV  i"-.  in  the  center  of  the  lower 
portion  of  the  U  and  ream  it  out.  The 
piece  should  now  be  clamped  with  a 
good  pair  of  blacksmith's  tongs, — a 
block  of  iron  being  placed  between  the 
ends  to  keep  the  pressure  of  the  tongs 
from  drawing  them  together — heated 
to  a  cherry  red  and  then  plunged  into 
a  bath  of  oil.  It  can  then  be  mag- 
netized by  placing  it  in  contact  with  a 
permanent  magnet. 

Next  obtain  a  piece  of  %-in.  brass, 
about  y2  in.  wide  and  5I/2  in.  long. 
Drill  two  holes  in  each  end  of  the 
piece  to  match  those  drilled  in  the 
ends  of  the  magnet,  also  one  in  the 
center,  and  tap  it  for  a  %-in.  machine 
screw.     Now  bend  this  piece  into  the 


form  shown.  Provide  a  machine 
screw,  S,  for  the  hole  C  and  drill  a  small 
tapered  hole  in  the  end  of  the  screw. 

Obtain  a  small  quantity  of  soft  sheet 
iron  and  cut  a  sufficient  number  of 
pieces  similar  to  that  shown  at  D  to 
make    a    pile    V2    '".    high.      Cut    two 


Detail  of  Armature  Laminations,  and  Completed  Parts 
Assembled,  but  without  Armature  Windings 

pieces  of  the  same  size  from  some 
thin  sheet  brass.  Now  place  all  of 
these  pieces  in  a  pile,  the  brass  pieces 
being  on  the  outside,  and  clamp  them 
securely,  then  drill  the  two  small  holes, 
E  and  F.  Place  two  small  copper  riv- 
ets in  these  holes  and  rivet  the  heads 
down  before  removing  the  clamp. 
Drill  a  Vs-in.  hole,  G,  through  this 
piece,  the  armature,  for  the  shaft  to 
pass  through.  Procure  a  piece  of  %- 
in.  steel  rod,  about  G  in.  long.  Sharpen 
one  end  so  that  it  will  enter  the  hole 
B,  then  cut  the  other  end  off  and 
sharpen  it  so  that  it  will  enter  the 
opening  made  in  the  end  of  the  screw  S. 
The  armature  may  now  be  soldered  to 
this  shaft,  its  left-hand  surface  being 
flush  with  the  ends  of  the  magnet. 

A  small  commutator,  H,  should  now 
be  made  as  follows:  Obtain  a  piece  of 
thin  brass  tubing  about  %  in.  in  diam- 


360 


etcr.  Turn  down  a  piece  of  hard  rub- 
ber so  that  the  tube  will  fit  tightly  on 
it.  Drill  a  hole  in  this  piece  of  rub- 
ber of  such  a  size  that  it  will  have  to 
be  forced  on  the  steel  shaft.  Saw  two 
longitudinal  slots  in  the  brass  tube 
diametrically  opposite  each  other  and 
then  bind  these  two  pieces  in  place  on 
the  piece  of  rubber  with  some  heavy 
linen  thread  wrapped  around  each  end. 
The  armature  is  now  ready  to  wind. 
Get  a  small  quantity  of  No.  23  gauge 
cotton-covered  wire,  solder  one  end  to 
one  of  the  segments  of  the  commuta- 
tor, then  wind  one  end  of  the  armature 
full  and  cross  over  and  wind  the  other 
end  full,  soldering  the  end  of  the  wire 
to  the  second  commutator  segment. 
Make  sure  to  wind  both  ends  of  the 
armature  in  the  same  direction  so  the 
current  in  both  parts  of  the  winding 
produces  magnetizing  effects  in  the 
same  direction.  Insulate  the  winding 
from  the  core  and  the  different  layers 
from  each  other  with  a  good  quality 
of  thin  writing  paper. 

Two  small  brushes  should  now  be 
made  from  some  thin  spring  brass  and 
mounted  on  the  brass  piece  as  shown. 
These  brushes  should  be  insulated 
from  the  piece  of  brass  and  two  small 
binding  posts  should  be  provided  for 
making  connections  to  them.  The  po- 
sition of  the  commutator  and  brushes 
should  be  such  that  the  brushes  move 
from  one  segment  to  the  other  when 
the  ends  of  the  armature  are  directly 
in  line  with  the  ends  of  the  permanent 
magnet. 

A  small  pulley  should  be  mounted 
upon  the  shaft  to  be  used  in  transmit- 
ting the  power.  The  whole  device 
may  be  mounted  in  a  horizontal  posi- 
tion on  a  wooden  base  as  shown,  and 
the  motor  is  complete. 


How   to    Make   a    Humidity   Indicator 

A  simple  weather  indicator  that 
may  be  used  in  determining  the  con- 
dition of  the  atmosphere  may  be  made 
as  follows :  Dress  a  small  figure,  in 
the  form  of  a  doll,  with  a  piece  of 
cloth,  previously  dipped  in  the  fol- 
lowing solution:     Chloride  of  cobalt, 


30  parts  by  weight ;  sodium  chloride, 
15  parts;  gum  arable,  TVo  parts;  cal- 
cium chloride,  4^2  parts,  and  water, 
400  parts.  This  cloth  will  change 
color  as  the  amount  of  moisture  in 
the  atmosphere  changes,  the  change 
being  due  to  the  cobalt  salt,  which,  in 
dry  air,  is  lavender  blue.  As  the  mois- 
ture in  the  atmosphere  increases,  the 
color  changes  first  to  bluish  red,  then 
light  red  and  finally  pink,  according 
to  the  amount  of  moisture.  With  a 
decrease  in  moisture,  the  colors  change 
in  the  reverse  order  to  that  given 
above,  and  the  blue  color  returns  when 
the  air  becomes  dry. 


The  "Q"  Trick 

Lay  out  the  form  of  the  capital  let- 
ter O   with  coins  on  a  table  and  ask 
someone    in    the   audience   to    select   a 
number  and  then 
ask    that    person  ^     ^    ^ 

to       count       up         ^ 
from     one     until  © 

the     number     is    B@ 
reached,      begin-  ^^ 

ning    at    A    and        ®  ^ 

stopping   on   the  ©  @ 

circle,      for      in-  ^ 

stance  at  B,  then  @ 

counting   back 
again    beginning  *^' 

with     one,     but,  a® 

instead  of  count- 
ing on  the  tail,  pass  it  and  go  around 
the  circle,  say,  to  C.  The  performer 
gives  these  instructions  to  the  person 
doing  the  counting.  The  one  selecting 
the  number  must  not  tell  the  per- 
former what  the  number  is,  and  the 
latter  is  to  leave  the  room  while  the 
counting  proceeds.  The  performer, 
before  leaving  the  room,  is  to  tell 
which  coin  will  be  the  last  one 
counted. 

Take,  for  example,  the  number  7. 
Counting  from  A  to  B  there  are  just 
7  coins  and  counting  back  the  last 
number  or  7  will  be  at  C.  Try  9  for 
the  number  and  the  last  one  counted 
will  also  be  C.  The  number  of  coins 
in  the  tail  represents  the  number  of 
coins  in  the  circle  from   the  intersec- 


361 


tion  of  the  tail  and  circle  to  the  last 
number  counted.  For  instance,  the 
sketch  shows  4  coins  in  the  tail,  there- 
fore the  last  coin  counted  in  the  circle 
will  be  at  C  or  the  fourth  coin  from 
the  intersection  of  the  tail  and  circle. 
By  slipping  another  coin  in  the  tail 
the  location  of  the  last  coin  counted 
is  changed,  thereby  eliminating  any 
chance  of  exposing  the  trick  by  locat- 
ing the  same  coin  in  the  circle  every 
time.  This  can  be  done  secretly  with- 
out being  noticed. 


To  Keep  Ants  Away  From  Food 

Suspend  a  shelf,  breadbox  or  rack 
with  wire  around  which  is  tied  a  piece 
of  cotton  cloth,  saturated  with  a  min- 
eral oil.  The  ants  will  not  cross  the 
oil-soaked  cloth. 

Some  strong  wire  hooks  attached  to 
the  rack  or  shelf  answer  well  to  hang 
small  articles  on,  such  as  bacon,  bags 
of  sugar,  syrup  cans,  etc. — Contributed 
by  C.  B.  Hosford,  Swansea,  Ariz. 


Vaulting-Pole  Holder 

An  adjusting  device  for  a  vaulting 
pole  that  can  be  easily  fixed  at  any 
point  on  a  round  pole  by  using  a 
wedge  and  ring,  is  shown  in  the 
sketch.  The  wedge  carries  a  pin  on 
which   to  place   the  cross  pole.     The 


The  Ring  on  the  Upright, 
Held  in  Position  by  the 
^Vedge,  Which  in  Turn 
Carries  the  Pole  en  the 
Pin 


manner  of  using  this  device  as  well  as 
its  construction  is  clearly  indicated. 
— Contributed  by  Sterling  R.  Speirs, 
St.  Louis,  Mo. 


Flying  Model  Aeroplane  for  a  Display 

A  novelty  for  a  window  display  is 
made  of  a  model  aeroplane  flying  by 
its  own  power.  To  control  the  direc- 
tion and  make  the  model  fly  in  a  circle 


Detail  of  Parts  Showing  AVire  Connections  and  Model 
in  Flight  around  the  Central  Axis 

it  is  fastened  to  a  long  stick  or  beam 
which  is  pivoted  in  the  center.  The 
one  shown  was  pivoted  to  a  roller- 
skate  wheel  which  in  turn  was  fast- 
ened to  a  metal  standard.  The  beam 
was  attached  to  the  skate  wheel  with 
two  small  bolts  which  were  insulated 
and  carried  two  brushes  as  com- 
mutator contacts. 

The  commutator  rings  were  made 
of  heavy  brass  strips,  fastened  to  a 
round  piece  of  wood  which  was  at- 
tached to  the  metal  standard.  The 
wires  from  the  current  supply  were 
connected  to  the  commutator  rings. 
From  the  brushes  connecting  wires 
were  carried  along  the  beam  to  the 
aeroplane  motor  which  was  a  small 
battery  motor  with  propeller. 

The  opposite  end  of  the  beam  was 
weighted  to  balance  it.  The  first 
sketch  shows  the  parts  and  the  man- 
ner of  making  the  connections.  The 
aeroplane  is  driven  in  a  circular  path 
by  its  own  power  in  a  realistic 
manner. 


862 


An   Electric   Time   Light 


Althou.s^h  the  modern  alarm  clock  is 
a  wonderfully  effective  piece  of  mech- 
anism, it  is,  to  say  the  least,  very  ab- 
rupt in  its  manner.  It  seldom  con- 
fines its  efforts  to 
the  chamber  of 
its  owner,  but 
spreads  its  dis- 
turbance all  over 
the  building.  It 
is  very  easy  for  a 
person  to  arise 
early  in  the  sum- 
mer  and  no 
greater  difficulty 
should  be  experi- 
enced in  winter,  if 
the  bedroom  is 
brightly  lighted 
at  the  proper 
hour.  To  do  this 
simply  and  automatically  became  the 
prol)lem. 

The  first  thought  was  to  obtain  one 
of  those  clock-actuated  electric-light 
switches,  such  as  the  stores  use,  but 
this  would  not  do,  because  it  meant 
some  unsightly  wiring  around  the 
room.  It  was  then  remembered  how, 
in  the  course  of  some  experiments,  an 
ordinary  incandescent  light  was  op- 
erated through  a  piece  of  No.  3G  gauge 
wire  without  any  sign  of  heating.  If. 
then,  a  wire  only  1/200  in.  in  diameter 
were  of  ample  carrying  capacity,  surely 
a  dollar  watch  would  be  sufficient  to 
make  the  connection.  Such  being  the 
case,  the  whole  mechanism  could 
readily  be  attached  to  the  drop  cord  of 
a  lamp  directly  above  the  socket,  thus 
obviating  any  additional  wiring.  This 
all  proved  to  be  true,  and  the  whole 
was  made  and  attached  in  the  course 
of  a  couple  of  hours. 

While  one  might  feel  enthusiastic 
about  this  small  and  easily  contrived 
affair,  it  is  scarcely  to  be  presumed 
that  it  would  operate  so  effectively  on 
one  who  had  spent  the  larger  part  of 
the  night  tripping  the  "light  fantastic," 
or  in  undue  conviviality.  An  ordinary 
IG-cp.  globe  has  thus  far  operated  per- 
fectly,   and    a   40-watt   tungsten    lamp 


would,  if  not  too-  far  away,  surely 
awaken  the  hardest  sleeper  of  sober 
habits. 

The  base  of  the  mechanism  is  a  small 
piece  of  %-in.  hard  wood,  upon  which 
is  fastened  a  small  brass  bracket,  A, 
bent  so  as  to  hold  the  watch  from 
slipping  down.  A  small  clip,  B,  was 
then  arranged  so  as  to  grip  the  neck 
of  the  watch  after  its  lower  edge  had 
been  placed  against  A,  and  a  small 
brad  at  either  side  prevented  lateral 
movement.  In  this  way  the  watch  was 
held  firmly,  yet  in  a  manner  that  would 
permit  its  being  taken  out  instantly 
when  necessary.  The  glass  and  min- 
ute hand  were  removed.  The  brass 
bolt  from  an  exhausted  dry  cell  was 
placed  at  C,  so  as  to  clamp  a  small  cop- 
per washer  to  which  was  soldered  a 
narrow  strip  of  copper,  D,  about  y^  in. 
wide  and  cut  from  a  leaf  of  an  old 
dynamo  brush.  This  strip  is  arranged 
so  as  to  wipe  the  hour  hand  as  it 
travels  past,  but  being  so  thin,  it  has 
no  appreciable  effect  on  the  time  keep- 
ing. As  illustrated,  the  device  is  set 
for  six  o'clock,  but  by  loosening  the 
nut  C  an  hour's  adjustment  either  way 
may  be  had.  It  is  a  very  simple  mat- 
ter, however,  to  arrange  the  device  so  it 
will  operate  at  any  hour.  In  connect- 
ing up,  one  end  of  the  drop  cord  is 
removed  from  the  socket  and  attached 
to  A,  which  throws  the  current  through 
the  watch,  thence  along  the  hand  and 
down  D  to  C,  from  where  it  is  car- 
ried by  a  short  piece  of  wire  to  the 
socket  again.  As  there  are  so  many 
circuits  through  the  watch,  the  small 
current  required  for  one  light  does  not 
affect  it  in  any  way.  Thus  far,  no 
trouble  has  been  experienced  in  mak- 
ing this  delicate  connection  with  110 
volts,  but  if  any  should  develop,  the 
contacts  may  be  tipped  with  the  small 
pieces  of  platinum  taken  from  a 
burned-out  globe. 


CThe  meat  of  a  white  English  walnut 
may  be  easily  removed  by  heating  the 
nut  in  an  oven  or  on  top  of  a  stove, 
then  using  a  knife  to  pry  the  shell  open. 


365 


possible  to  make  it.  The  compartment 
must  not  be  too  wide,  for  the  resulting 
small  width  of  the"  front  part  of  the 
drawer  might  then  arouse  suspicion. 
On  the  lower  side  of  the  secret  com- 
partment a  strip  of  wood,  A,  should  be 
attached  with  a  screw,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  allowing  sufficient  looseness  so 
the  strip  may  be  turned  end  for  end 
when  necessary.  With  the  strip  set  as 
shown,  it  will  strike  the  front  side  B 
of  the  table  when  the  drawer  is  pulled 
out,  leaving  the  secret  compartment 
still  hidden.  In  order  to  expose  this,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  turn  the  strip,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2,  when  the  drawer  can 
be  pulled  out  to  its  full  length. 

It  being  necessary  that  the  strip  A  be 
as  long  as  the  secret  compartment  is 
wide,  to  fully  expose  this,  there  may  be 
cases  where  the  drawer  is  not  wide 
enough  to  allow  the  strip  A  to  turn 
around.  In  that  case  the  strip  can  be 
hinged  to  the  back  of  the  drawer  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  When  it  is  hanging 
down,  as  shown  by  the  dotted  outline, 
the  drawer  may  be  pulled  out  to  its  full 
extent.  When  it  is  desired  to  lock  the 
secret  compartment,  the  hinged  strip 
must  be  swung  up  in  position,  and  fas- 
tened. An  ordinary  thumbscrew  or  eye 
can  be  used  which,  by  a  turn  or  two, 
will  either  release  it  or  fasten  it  in 
place. — Contributed  by  Paul  Durst,  De- 
troit, Mich. 


Inflating    Handballs 

When  handballs  become  "dead,"  or 
no  longer  bounce  freely,  they  may  fre- 
quently be  restored  by  inflating  them 
with  air.  This  can  be  done  by  means 
of  a  bulb  attached  to  a  hypodermic 
needle.  The  needle  must  be  inserted 
through  the  soft  plug  which  every  in- 
flated ball  has,  and  which  can  be  dis- 
covered by  pressure.  After  the  ball  is 
inflated  and  the  needle  extracted,  the 
soft  rubber  closes  around  the  fine  hole, 
preventing  the  escape  of  the  air.  If  a 
leak  is  found,  which  allows  the  air  to 
escape  too  rapidly,  a  repair  can  be 
made  with  a  single-tube  tire  outfit. — 
Contributed  by  A.  B.  Wegener,  Cam- 
den, N.  J. 


A  Garden-Bed  Scarecrow 

A  very  neat  and  successful  scare- 
crow for  garden  beds  can  be  made  as 
follows :     A  number  of  corks  are  pro- 


The  Fluttering  Feathers  Attached  to  the   String  with 
Corks  Scare  the  Birds  Away 

cured,  and  a  feather  is  stuck  in  each 
end  of  them,  as  shown.  These  are  tied 
to  a  string,  spacing  them  from  1  to  3 
ft.  apart,  and  the  string  is  hung  over 
the  beds.  The  slightest  breeze  will 
keep  them  fluttering,  and  no  bird  will 
come  to  rest  on  the  beds. — Contributed 
by  M.  T.  Canary,  Chicago. 


Measuring  the  Length  of  Wire  Wound 
on  a  Spool 

When  winding  magnet  spools  on  a 
lathe,  the  exact  amount  of  wire  used 
can  be  easily  determined  by  means  of 
the  device  shown  in  the  illustration. 
The  large  reel  from  which  the  wire  is 
obtained   is   conveniently  placed  on  a 


366 


loose  mandrel,  or  rod,  near  the  lathe, 
and  in  line  with  the  spool  which  is  to  be 
wound.    A  grooved  idler  wheel,  the  ex- 


LATHE    BED 
Measuring  the  Length  of  Wire  on  a  Spool  with  the 
Use  of  an  Idler  and  Counter 

act  diameter  of  which  is  known,  is  sup- 
ported between  the  spool  and  wire  reel 
so  it  may  freely  revolve  ;  the  number  of 
its  revolutions  should  be  obtained,  au- 
tomatically, by  a  revolution  counter. 
When  using  the  device,  the  wire  from 
the  reel  is  placed  once  around  the  idler 
to  insure  the  necessary  grip  to  prevent 
it  from  sliding;  then  it  is  led  to  the 
spool.  The  exact  diameter  of  the  idler 
being  known  and  the  number  of  revolu- 
tions indicated,  the  true  length  of  the 
wire  wound  on  the  spools  can  be  easily 
determined  by  the  following  formula: 
Length  of  wire  on  spool  in  feet  equals 
circumference  of  idler  in  feet  times 
number  of  revolutions  of  idler. — Con- 
tributed by  C.  Swayne,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 


Homemade  Lawn  Sprinkler 

With  a  short  length  of  old  hose,  a 
serviceable  lawn  sprinkler  can  be 
quickly  and  easily  made.  One  end  is 
provided  with  a  regular  coupling  for 
connecting  it  to  the  line  of  good  hose. 
The  other  end  is  turned  up  for  several 
inches,  and  securely  wired  to  the  main 


part,  thereby  shutting  ofT  any  flow 
through  it.  Several  cuts  are  made  into 
it,  about  halfway  across  and  6  in.  apart. 
If  the  water  is  forced  in,  the  only  means 
of  escape  will  be  through  the  slots, 
which_  will  produce  fine  sprays,  giving 
as  good  service  as  a  manufactured 
sprinkler. — Contributed  by  A.  B.  Shaw, 
N.  Dartmouth,  Mass. 


Homemade  Toy  Bank 

The  little  bank  illustrated  is  not  ex- 
actly burglar-proof,  but  once  put  to- 
gether it  cannot  be  opened  except  by 
the  destruction  of  one  of  the  units  of 
which  it  is  composed.  It  requires  but 
little  skill  to  make,  and  would  be  a  good 
problem  for  manual  training,  as  it 
oft'ers  an  excellent  opportunity  for 
teaching  certain  rudiments  of  wood- 
working by  the  application  method. 


BEVEL   BETWEEN 
THESE   POINTS 


-- 

l"w 

r- 

01 

= 

~ 

;      ■" 

- 

~ 

•"2*6* 


■zi 


^¥P 


The  Slots  Cut  in  the  Hose  will  Produce  a  Very 
Fine  Spray  of  Water 


Six  Pieces  of  Wood  as  They  are  Put  Together  to 
Form  a  Toy  Bank 

In  its  construction,  six  pieces  of  hard 
wood,  of  the  dimensions  shown  in  the 
sketch,  are  required.  White  wood  will 
do  if  there  is  no  hard  wood  at  hand. 
The  coin  slot  is  l^  in.  wide  by  II/4  in. 
long,  and  is  cut  in  only  one  piece. 

No  difficulty  will  be  experienced  in 
putting  the  first  five  pieces  together, 
but  the  sixth,  or  top,  piece,  shown  in 
the  sketch,  will  not  go  in,  because  the 
bottom  edge  of  the  raised  side  will 
strike  the  inside  of  the  piece  to  the 
right.  By  beveling  this  edge  with  a 
chisel  from  top  to  bottom  between  the 
dadoes,  or  grooves,  it  can  be  forced 
down  quite  a  distance  and  sprung  in 
place  by  placing  a  block  of  wood  on 
the  high  side  and  striking  it  a  sharp 
blow  with  a  heavy  hammer. — Con- 
tributed by  J.  A.  Shelly,  Brooklyn, 
New  York. 


367 

An    Electric    Anemometer 

By  Wm.  H.  DETTMAN 


The  construction  of  this  instrument 
is  so  simple  that  any  amateur  can 
make  one,  and  if  accurate  caHbrations 
are  desired,  these  can  be  marked  by 
comparison  with  a  standard  anemom- 
eter, while  both  are  placed  in  the 
wind. 

The  Indicator 

The  case  of  the  indicator  is  built  of 
thin  wood — the  material  of  an  old 
cigar  box  will  do — 9  in.  long,  6  in.  wide 
and  IVi;  in.  deep.  If  cigar-box  ma- 
terial is  used,  it  must  first  be  soaked 
in  warm  water  to  remove  the  paper. 
If  a  cover  is  to  be  used  on  the  bo.x,  a 
slot,  on  an  arc  of  a  circle,  must  be  cut 
through  it  to  show  the  scale  beneath. 
The  arc  is  determined  by  the  length  of 
the  needle  from  a  center  over  the  axis 
on  which  the  needle  swings.  When 
the  box  is  completed,  smooth  up  the 
outside  surface  with  fine  sandpaper 
and  give  it  a  coat  of  stain. 

The  core  of  the  magnet  is  made  by 
winding  several  layers  of  bond  paper 
around  a  pencil  of  sufficient  size  to 
make  an  inside  diameter  of  slightly 
over  14  in-,  and  a  tube  2  in.  long.  Iiach 
layer  of  the  paper  is  glued  to  the  pre- 
ceding layer. 

Two  flanges  or  disks  are  attached  to 
the  tube  to  form  a  spool  for  the  wire. 
The  disks  are  cut  from  thin  wood,  I14 
in.  square,  and  a  hole  bored  through 
their  centers  so  that  each  will  fit  on 
the  tube  tightly.  One  of  them  is  glued 
to  one  end  of  the  tube  and  the  other 
fastened  at  a  point  %  in.  from  the  op- 
posite end.  The  space  between  the 
disks  is  filled  with  seven  layers  of  No. 
28  gauge  insulated  magnet  wire,  allow- 
ing sufficient  ends  of  the  wire  to  pro- 
ject for  connections.  The  finished  coil 
is  located  in  the  box,  as  shown  at  A, 
Fig.  1. 

The  core  for  the  coil  is  cut  from  a 
piece  of  Vi-'m.  iron  rod,  ly^  in.  long, 
and  a  slot  is  cut  in  each  end,  14  in. 
deep,  into  which  brass  strips  are  in- 
serted and  soldered,  or  otherwise  fas- 
tened.    The  strips  of  brass  are  1%  in. 


wide,  one  li/^  in.  long  and  the  other  % 
in.  Two  iV-in.  holes  are  drilled  in  the 
end  of  the  long  piece,  and  one  iV'^n. 


The  Indicator  Box  with   Coil,  Needle  and  Scale,  as  It 
is  Used  in  Connection  with  the  Anemometer 

hole  in  the  end  of  the  short  piece.  The 
complete  core  with  the  brass  ends  is 
shown  in  Fig.  2. 

The  needle  B,  Fig.  1,  is  made  of  a 
copper  or  brass  wire,  about  G  in.  long, 
and  is  mounted  on  an  a.xis  at  C.  The 
detail  of  the  bearing  for  the  axis  is 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  axis  D  is  a  piece 
of  wood  fitted  in  the  U-shaped  piece  of 
brass  and  made  to  turn  on  brads  as 
bearings,  the  center  being  pierced  to 
receive  the  end  of  the  needle.  After 
locating  the  bearing  for  the  axis  C, 
Fig.  1,  it  is  fastened  m  place  so  that 
the  upper  end  or  pointer  of  the  needle 
will  travel  over  the  scale.  The  needle 
is  then  attached  to  the  bearing  after 
having  been  passed  through  the  inner 


368 


hole  of  the  longer  brass  strip  of  the 
core,  and  the  coil  is  fitted  with  the  core 
in  the  manner  shown  at  D.  A  light 
brass  coil  spring  is  attached  to  each 
end  of  the  core,  as  shown  at  E  and  F, 
the  latter  being  held  with  a  string,  G, 


(o  o 


IB) 


Fig  2  F'S  3 

The  Metal   Core  for   the  Coil   and   the  Bearing   Block 
for  the  Axis  of  the  Needle 

whose  end  is  tied  to  a  brad  on  the  out- 
side of  the  box,  for  adjustment.  A  bet- 
ter device  could  be  substituted  by  at- 
taching the  end  of  the  spring  F  to  a  nut 
and  using  a  knurled-head  bolt  passed 
through  the  box  side.  One  of  the 
wires  from  the  coil  is  attached  to  a 
push  button,  H,  to  be  used  when  a 
reading  of  the  instrument  is  made. 
The  connections  for  the  instrument 
consist  of  one  binding  post  and  a  push 
button. 

The    Anemometer 

The  anemometer  resembles  a  minia- 
ture windmill  and  is  mounted  on  top 
of  a  l)uilding  or  support  where  it  is 
fully  exposed  to  the  air  currents.  It 
differs  from  the  windmill  in  that  the 
revolving  wheel  is  replaced  by  a  cupped 
disk,  A,  Fig.  4,  fitted  with  a  sliding 
metal  shaft,  B,  which  is  supported  on 
crosspieces,  CC,  between  the  main 
frame  pieces  DD.  The  latter  pieces 
carry  a  vane  at  the  opposite  end.  The 
frame  pieces  are   i/o  in.  thick,  2^^   in. 


The    Anemometer    as   It    is    Mounted    on    a    Standard 
Similar  to  a  Small  Windmill  Weather  Vane 

wide  and  36  in.  long,  and  the  cross- 
pieces  have  the  same  width  and  thick- 
ness and  are  4  in.  long. 

A  variable-resistance  coil,  E,  is 
made  as  follows  and  fastened  in  the 
main  frame.    The  core  of  this  coil  is  a 


piece  of  wood,  2  in.  square  and  4  in. 
long,  and  wound  with  No.  18  gauge 
single-wound  cotton-covered  german- 
silver  wire.  The  winding  should  be- 
gin i/i  in.  from  one  end  of  the  core  and 
finish  y^  in.  from  the  other,  making  the 
length  of  the  coil  3l^  in.  The  ends  of 
the  wire  are  secured  by  winding  them 
around  the  heads  of  brads  driven  into 
the  core.  A  small  portion  of  the  in- 
sulation is  removed  from  the  wire  on 
one  side  of  the  coil.  This  may  be  done 
with  a  piece  of  emery  cloth  or  sand- 
paper. A  sliding  spring  contact,  F,  is 
attached  to  the  sliding  shaft  B,  the 
end  of  which  is  pressed  firmly  on  the 
bared  portion  of  the  wire  coil.  One 
end  of  a  coil  spring,  which  is  slipped 
on  the  shaft  between  the  pieces  CC,  is 
attached  to  the  end  crosspiece,  and  the 
other  end  is  fastened  to  the  sliding 
shaft  so  as  to  keep 
the  shaft  and  disk 
out,  and  the  flange 
H  against  the 
second  crosspiece, 
when  there  is  no 
air  current  ap- 
plied to  the  disk  A. 
The  insulation 
of  the  standard 
upon  which  the 
anemometer  turns 
is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  standard  J  is 
made  of  a  piece  of  Vi^-in.  pipe,  suitably 
and  rigidly  attached  to  the  building 
or  support,  and  the  upper  end,  around 
which  the  anemometer  revolves  to  keep 
in  the  direction  of  the  air  currents,  is 
fitted  with  a  plug  of  wood  to  insulate 
the  ^/4-in.  brass  rod  K.  A  bearing  and 
electric-wire  connection  plate,  L,  is 
made  of  brass,  %  in-  thick,  2  in.  wide 
and  4  in.  long.  The  bearing  and  con- 
nection plate  M  are  made  in  a  similar 
manner.  The  surface  of  the  holes  in 
these  plates,  bearing  against  the  pipe 
J  and  the  brass  rod  K,  make  the  two 
connections  for  the  wires  from  the 
variable-resistance  coil  E,  Fig.  4,  lo- 
cated on  the  main  frame,  to  the  wire 
connections  between  the  two  in- 
struments. These  wires  should  be 
weather-proof,  insulated,  attached  as 
shown,  and  running  to  and  connecting 


369 


the  indicator  with  the  anemometer  at 
NN,  Fig.  1. 

Two  or  more  dry  cells  must  be  con- 
nected in  the  line,  and  when  a  reading 
is  desired,  the  button  H,  Fig.  1,  is 
pushed,  which  causes  the  current  to 
flow  through   the   lines  and   draw  the 


magnet  core  D  in  the  coil,  in  propor- 
tion to  the  magnetic  force  induced  by 
the  amount  of  current  passing  through 
the  resistance  in  the  coils  on  E,  Fig.  4, 
from  the  contact  into  which  the  spring 
F  is  brought  by  the  wind  pressure  on 
the  disk  A. 


How  to  Make  Stick  Shellac 

It  is  often  desired  to  use  shellac  in 
solid  or  stick  form,  and  to  get  it  into 
this  shape  by  melting  and  molding  re- 
quires considerable  time.  A  much 
quicker  method  is  to  place  the  shellac 
in  a  shallow  box,  spread  it  out  in  a  thin 
layer  and  play  the  flame  from  a  Bunsen 
burner  upon  it  until  the  mass  is  melted 
and  run  together.  Allow  it  to  stand  a 
few  seconds,  then,  with  moistened  fin- 
gers, fold  it  over  and  over  and  shape  it 
with  the  fingers.  It  is  possible  to  make 
a  stick  8  or  10  in.  long  and  %  in.  in 
diameter  in  about  5  minutes. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  H.  Beeber,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 


Substitute  for  a  Hose  Reel 

Not  having  the  room  to  spare  for  the 
ordinary  hose  reel,  I  used  as  a  suljsti- 
tute  a  piece  of  wire  bent  into  the  shape 
of  a  letter  S  and  with  its  aid  coiled  the 
hose  in  a  manner  to  expel  the  water 
and  leave  it  in  shape  for  storing. 

The  hook  A  is  sprung  around  the 
hose  about  5  ft.  from  the  connection 
joint  and  remains  there  permanently. 
The  end  of  the  hose  with  the  connec- 
tion C  is  then  brought  around  in  a 
circle  and  forced  into  the  hook  B. 
This  forms  the  start  for  the  coil  and 


A  Hook  for  Coiling  a  Hose  Instead  of  Turning 
It  on  a  Reel 

the  hose  is  easily  rolled  up  to  the 
nozzle,  the  water  being  expelled  during 
the  operation. — Contributed  by  F.  H. 
Aldrich,  Toledo,  Ohio. 


Addressing  a  Roll  of  Papers 

When  addressing  rolled-up  papers  it 
is  difficult  to  write  on  the  curved  sur- 
face.   The  papers  also  have  a  tendency 


The  Roll  of   Paper 

is  Placed  in  the  Curved 

Edge  of  a  Book  for  Addressing 

to  roll  away.  By  placing  the  roll  in 
the  hollow  on  the  front  edge  of  a  large 
book,  as  shown  in  the  sketch,  it  will  be 
found  easy  to  write  on  the  wrapper. — 
Contributed  by  W.  P.  Shaw,  Toronto, 
Canada. 


Repairing  the  Bruised  Sides  of  a 
Motorboat 

When  the  sides  of  a  boat  become 
scored  or  bruised  scrape  the  parts  clean 
and  fill  the  depressions  with  wood  ce- 
ment. The  wood  cement  or  stick  ce- 
ment, as  it  is  called,  can  be  procured 
from  a  paint  store.  Heat  the  cement 
with  a  iDlowtorch  and  apply  it  to  the 
bruised  parts.  Use  a  heated  putty 
knife  to  smooth  the  cement  and  make 
the  surface  level.  After  sandpapering 
the  fills  and  applying  a  coat  of  paint 
the  boat  sides  will  look  as  good  as  new. 
The  cement  will  not  chip  or  fall  out. — 
Contributed  by  Henry  Beck,  Bronx, 
New  York. 


S70 


How   to   Make   an   Electric   Lamp   Flasher 


Procure  two  pieces  of  metal,  one  of 
brass  and  the  other  of  sheet  iron,  5  in. 
long,  I/O  in.  wide,  and  ^^  in.,  or  just  a 
little  more,  in  thickness.  Bend  the 
brass  strip  into  the  form  shown  in  Fig. 
1,  then  place  the  brass  piece  on  top  of 
the  iron  and  drill  the  holes  A  and  B 
indicated  in  Fig.  2.  After  the  brass 
piece  has  been  bent,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1,  it  will  of  course  be  shorter  than  the 
iron  strip  and  the  iron  strip  must  be 
cut  off,  or  a  brass  strip  a  little  longer 
than  5  in.  can  be  secured  and  cut  the 
same  length  as  the  iron  strip  after  it  is 
bent.  The  holes  A  and  B  should  be 
W'j  in.  in  diameter.  The  next  thing  to 
do  will  be  to  wind  a  heating  coil  about 
the  brass  strip.  Wrap  a  very  thin  layer 
of  sheet  asbestos  about  the  brass  strip, 
and  wind  on  the  strip  18  ft.  of  No.  34 
gauge  bare  superior  resistance  wire. 
Use  a  thread  about  .006  in.  in  diameter 
to  separate  the  various  turns.  This 
thread  can  be  removed  after  the  wind- 
ing is  completed  and  the  ends  have 
been  fastened.  Rivet  the  iron  and 
brass  pieces  together  with  a  small 
brass  rivet  in  the  hole  A,  Fig.  3.  After 
the  two  pieces  are  riveted  together 
bend  them  into  the  form  shown  in  Fig. 
4  and  then  drill  the  two  %-in.  holes  C 
and  D,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  Tap  the 
hole  B,  Fig.  2,  to  take  a  small  machine 
screw. 

The  base  is  constructed  as  follows : 
Procure  a  piece  of  slate,  5%  in.  long, 
li/o  in.  wide,  and  1/2  in.  in  thickness. 
Drill  the  holes  indicated  in  Fig.  3. 
The  four  corner  holes  are  for  mount- 


of  3^5  or  14  in.  Cut  from  some  iV-in. 
sheet  brass  a  piece  1%  in.  long,  and 
1/2  in-  wide.  Drill  two  Vs-in.  holes 
in  this  piece,  y^  in.  apart  and  equally 
spaced  from  the  ends.  Procure  four 
%-in.  brass  bolts,  two  i/o  in.  in  length, 
and  two  1  in.  in  length.  Secure  four 
small  washers  and  two  additional 
nuts.  Mount  the  combined  iron  and 
brass  strip  on  the  slate  base,  using  a 
long  and  short  bolt  as  shown  in  Fig. 
4.  One  terminal  of  the  winding  should 
be  placed  under  the  head  of  the  bolt  J. 
Place  a  washer,  K,  between  the  head  of 
the  bolt  and  the  wire.  The  brass  strip 
L  can  now  be  mounted  in  a  similar 
manner,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Place 
the  other  end  of  the  winding  under  the 
head  of  the  bolt  M. 

Obtain  a  small  screw,  N,  Fig.  4,  of 
such  a  length  that  its  point  will  reach 
the  brass  strip  L  when  the  screw  is 
placed  in  the  hole  B,  Fig.  2.  A  lock 
nut,  O,  should  be  provided  for  this 
screw  so  that  it  will  remain  in  adjust- 
ment. The  point  of  the  screw  and  the 
point  on  the  brass  plate  where  the 
screw  touches  should  be  of  platinum, 
as  the  brass  will  not  withstand  the 
high  temperature  of  the  arc  formed 
when  the  circuit  is  broken. 

A  metal  box  should  now  be  provided 
to  serve  as  a  containing  case  and  the 
flasher  is  complete.  This  box  should 
be  of  such  design  and  construction  that 
it  will  comply  with  the  requirements 
of  the  electrical  inspection  department 
having  jurisdiction  over  the  locality 
where  the  flasher  is  to  be  used. 


— rfTV" 


l-,i- 


H 


o 


%- 


-3i- 


% 


Dimensions  of  the  Brass  Strip  and  Mounting  Base.  Showing  the  Location  of  the  Holes  and  the  Shape  of  the 

Brass  Strip  to  Receive  the  Coil  of  Wire 


ing  the  flasher  in  its  containing  case, 
and  should  be  about  %  in.  in 
diameter.  The  holes  E,  F,  G,  and  H 
should  be  i/s  in.  in  diameter  and 
countersunk  with  a  %-in.  square-ended 
drill,   on    the   under   side,   to   a    depth 


The  flasher  should  be  connected  in 
series  with  the  lamp,  the  wires  being 
fastened  under  the  nuts  on  the  bolts  P 
and  R,  Fig.  4,  and  the  screw  N  ad- 
justed so  that  it  lacks  a  small  fraction 
of  an  inch  of  making  contact  with  the 


371 


brass  plate  when  there  is  no  current  in 
the  winding.  When  the  switch  is 
turned  on  there  will  be  a  current 
through  the  lamp  and  winding  in 
series.  The  brass  strip  will  be  heated 
more  than  the  iron  and  it  will  expand 
more,  thus  forcing  the  point  of  the 
screw  N  down  upon  the  brass  plate, 
which  will  result  in  the  winding  about 
the  brass  strip  being  shorted  and  the 
full  voltage  will  be  impressed  upon 
the  lamp,  and  it  will  burn  at  normal 
candlepower.  When  the  coil  is  shorted 
there  will  of  course  be  no  current  in 
its  winding  and  the  brass  strip  will 
cool  down,  the  screw  N  will  finally 
be  drawn  away  from  contact  with 
the  brass  plate,  and  the  winding  again 


coimected  in  series  with  the  lamp.  The 
lamp  will  apparently  go  out  when  the 


F15.4 

The  Assembled  Parts  Show/ing  the  Complete  Flasher 
and  Electric  Connections  with  Adjusting  Screw 

winding  is  in  series  with  it,  as  the  total 
resistance  of  the  lamp  and  winding 
combined  will  not  permit  sufficient 
current  to  pass  through  the  lamp  to 
make  its  filament  glow.  The  time 
the  lamp  is  on  and  off  may  be  varied 
to  a  certain  extent  by  adjusting  the 
screw  N. 


Timing  Photograph  Prints 

An  amateur  photographer  insists 
that  a  timing  clock  in  the  darkroom  is 
a  needless  luxury.  In  order  to  time 
printing  exposures,  which  he  does  with 
a  pendant  tungsten  light  under  a  re- 
flecting shade,  he  simply  fastens  the 
electric-light  cord  so  that  the  lamp  and 
shade  will  act  like  a  pendulum  bob 
which  beats  the  seconds.  Of  course 
he  makes  no  effort  to  be  exact,  but  if 
the  distance  between  the  lamp  and  the 
point  of  suspension  of  the  cord  be 
about  39  or  40  in.,  the  beats  will  be 
very  nearly  seconds.  When  the  light 
is  turned  on,  it  is  started  swinging, 
and  the  operator  can  thus  easily  count 
seconds  with  sufficient  accuracy,  and, 
besides,  it  readily  furnishes  a  guide  for 
duplicating  printing  results. 

The  same  principle  can  be  applied 
to  camera  exposures,  if  so  desired,  by 
the  following  plan.  Select  some  suit- 
able place  on  the  under  side  of  the  tri- 
pod plate,  as,  for  instance,  the  screw 
head,  and  fasten  a  small  string,  hav- 
ing a  weight  attached  to  it  about  39 
in.  from  the  point  of  support.  Like 
the  swinging  lamp,  this  device  too,  will 
beat  seconds.  For  convenience,  one 
of  the  tripod  legs  may  be  marked  to 
indicate  the  length  of  string  needed, 
so  that  the  operator  at  any  time  can 


quickly  fasten  a  string,  measure  oflf 
the  right  length  on  the  tripod  leg,  at- 
tach a  bunch  of  keys,  a  knife,  or  any 
other  convenient  weight,  even  a  small 
stone,  and  have  a  second-beating  pen- 
dulum for  time  exposures. — Contrib- 
uted by  F.  B.  Lambert,  Chicago. 

Supports  for   Camp-Fire   Utensils 

The  sketch  shows  how  to  make  a 
standard  or  support  to  hold  cooking 
utensils  over  a  camp  fire.  The  main 
part  or  stake  is  made  of  a  piece  of  gas 
pipe,  on  one  end  of  which  is  turned  an 
ordinary  coupling,  Fig.  1.  This  is  used 
to  furnish  a  strong  head  when  the 
stake  is  driven  into  the  ground.  The 
rings  and  supports  for  the  utensils  are 


FiG.I  "=•' 

A  Piece  of  Gas  Pipe  Constitutes  the  Standard  with 
Wires  Attached  for  Holding  the  Utensils 

made  of  heavy  wire  bent  into  the  shape 
required  to  hold  the  respective  vessels. 
The  sketch.  Fig.  2,  shows  the  manner 
of  shaping  the  wires. 


372 


A   Rotary  Tuning  Coil 

The  rotary  tuner  shown  in  the  sketch 
was  designed  by  a  correspondent  of 
Modern    Electrics.     The    circle    is    cut 


shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in  the 
sketch.  This  will  enable  the  player  to 
quickly  turn  the  pages  one  at  a  time. 
— Contributed  by  Chas.  Homewood. 
Waterloo,  la. 


Tuning   Coil    and   Wiring    Diagran 


FiG,2 


from  %-in.  stock,  1  in.  wide  and  well 
covered  with  insulating  material.  It 
is  then  wound  with  No.  24  single  cot- 
ton-covered copper  wire  so  that  the 
coils  will  lie  flat.  All  the  arms  are  of 
%-in.  square  brass.  The  supports  are 
smaller  in  section.  Sliders  are  mounted 
on  the  ends  of  the  long  arms  and  are 
kept  in  place  by  setscrews. 

The  insulation  on  the  wire  is  re- 
moved with  a  small  piece  of  sand- 
paper pasted  on  a  block  of  wood.  This 
should  be  temporarily  fastened  to  the 
revolving  lever  at  the  point  where  the 
contact  is  wanted,  then  the  lever  is 
turned  until  the  insulation  is  removed. 
The  wiring  diagram  shows  the  location 
of  the  tuning  coil  in  the  line. 


Toy    Parachute    Cut-Away   for 
JCite  Lines 

An  interesting  pastime  while  flying 
kites  is  to  attach  large  toy  parachutes 
to  the  lines  and  have  some  device  to 
drop  them  when   they  are  at  a  great 


Preparing  Sheet  Music  for  Turning 

Each  page  on  sheet  music  having 
three  or  more  pages  should  be  cut  1/4 
in.  shorter  than  the  preceding  page,  as 


Leaves  Cut  for  Turning 


Tig, 2 
Two  Parachute  Drops 

height.  In  Fig.  1  is  shown  how  the 
parachute  is  dropped  by  the  burning  of 
a  piece  of  punk. 

Another  method  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  send  a  piece  of 
paper  or  cardboard  along  the  line  and 
when  it  strikes  the  wire  coil  A  (Fig.  2) 
the  part  B  slides  out  of  the  loops  C,  the 
end  D  will  then  fall  and  disengage  the 
loop  G  on  the  end  of  the  parachute 
string.  The  wires  E  and  F  are  twisted 
around  the  kite  string. — Contributed 
by  Thos.  De  Loof,  Grand  Rapids, 
Alichigan. 


373 


How  to  Make  an  Electric  Furnace 


A  small  electric  furnace  that  will  be 
very  serviceable  in  a  laboratory  may 
be  made  as  follows: 

First  procure  a  small  clay  flowerpot, 
about  4  in.  in  diameter  at  the  bottom, 
and  also  a  small  clay  crucible,  about  2 
in.  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  and  at 
least  1  in.  less  in  height  than  the 
flowerpot,  and  having  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible the  same  slope  to  its  sides  as  the 
pot.  Now  obtain  a  small  quantity  of 
asbestos  compound  ami  pack  it  around 
the  small  crucible  inside  the  flower- 
pot. Make  sure  the  crucible  is  in  the 
exact  center  of  the  flowerpot  and  that 
their  tops  are  even  with  each  other. 
Assuming  that  ordinary  electric-light 
carbons  are  to  be  used,  which  are 
about  1/2  in-  'n  diameter,  drill  two  %- 
in.  holes,  exactly  opposite  each  other, 
through  the  walls  of  the  flowerpot  and 
asbestos  compound  so  that  they  enter 
the  crucible  about  %  in.  above  its  bot- 
tom on  the  inside.  A  suitable  lid  for 
the  furnace  may  be  made  from  y^-in. 
sheet  asbestos  and  should  be  large 
enough  to  cover  the  top  of  the  flower- 
pot. 

The  feeds  and  supports  for  the  car- 
bon electrodes  are  constructed  as  fol- 
lows :  Procure  two  pieces  of  %-in. 
brass,  1  in.  wide  and  9  in.  long.  Cut  a 
%-in.  groove  lengthwise  in  the  center 
of  these  pieces  to  within  V/2  •"•  of 
each  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Drill 
four  %-in.  holes,  AA,  in  each  piece,  a 
%-in.  hole,  B,  in  one  end  and  a  3%-in. 


two  %-in.  rods,  10j\  in.  long.  Turn 
one  end  of  each  down  to  a  i\-in.  diame- 
ter for  a  distance  of  %  in.  From  that 
point  thread  the  same  end  of  the  rods 
for  a  distance  of  6  in.  Drill  a  tV-in. 
hole  in  each  end  of  the  rods  a  little  less 
than  1/4  in.  from  the  ends.  The  dimen- 
sions of  the  rods  are  given  in  Fig.  2. 
Two  small  rubber  or  wooden  handles, 
similar  to  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  3, 
should  now  be  made  and  fastened  to 
the  large  ends  of  the  rods  by  means  of 
I'j-in.  steel  pins.  Obtain  two  pieces  of 
brass  of  approximately  the  following 
dimensions :  1  in.  by  1  in.  by  3  in.  Drill 
four  holes  in  each  of  these  pieces  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  The  hole  H  should  be 
just  large  enough  to  allow  the  carbon 
to  enter,  or  about  I/2  in.  in  diameter. 
The  hole  G  should  be  tapped  to  take 
a  i/4-'n-  machine  screw,  the  hole  F 
should  be  threaded  so  that  the  threaded 
rods  will  enter,  and  a  small  binding 
post  should  be  mounted  on  a  lug  fas- 
tened in  the  hole  J.  Cut  away  one  end 
of  this  piece  as  shown  in  Fig.  4  until  it 
is  a  little  less  than  i/^  in.  in  thickness, 
or  so  it  will  enter  the  grooves  cut  in 
the  brass  strips. 

The  parts  of  the  furnace  are  now 
ready  to  assemble,  which  may  be  done 
as  follows :  Procure  a  piece  of  well 
seasoned  board,  hard  wood  if  possible, 
about  1  in.  thick,  8  in.  wide  and  per- 
haps 20  in.  long.  Cover  one  side  of 
this  board  and  the  edges  with  some  %- 
in.    sheet    asbestos.      Now    place    the 


J-  3" 

^^' 

1/h" 

^^!   3-A 

6 

^'%^ 

O^A 

t 

V/E8^ 

J 

\ 

3" 

1 

3" 

8_ 

-ii"H 

FiG.l 

\-'i'- 

B_ 

Mro  ^\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\tot ,. 


Details  of  the   Base,  Rod  and   Handle  for   Each   Carbon  Feed.  Which   is   Attached  to  the 
Large   Base   on  One  Side  of   the  Furnace 

hole,  C,  in  the  other  end.     Now  bend  flowerpot  in  the  exact  center  and  then 

the  ends  up  at  right  angles  to  the  re-  mount  the  grooved  brass  strips  one  on 

mainder  of  the  piece  along  the  dotted  either  side  of  it  with  the  longest  di- 

lines  shown  at  D  and  E.    Next  obtain  mension  parallel  to  the  longest  dimen- 


374 


rH 


■iO 


■6 


i 


sion  of  the  board  and  the  inside  end 
about  1  in.  from  the  side  of  the  pot. 
The  end  with  the  i%-in.  holes  should 
be  next  to  the  pot.  Assemble  the 
parts  of  the  carbon  feeds  and  then  cut 
out  some  circular  disks  of  asbestos  to 
place  under  the  flowerpot  so  as  to 
raise  it  to  such  a  position 
that  the  holes  in  its  sides 
will  be  on  a  line  with  the 
carbon  rods.  Three  long 
screws  should  now  be 
placed  in  the  board,  form- 
ing the  base,  in  such  a 
position  as  to  hold  the 
flowerpot  always  in  place. 
This  completes  the  fur- 
nace proper,  which  is 
shown  in  Fig.  5.  The 
furnace  can  now  be  put 
into  operation  provided  there  is  a  suit- 
able current  rheostat  to  connect  in  se- 
ries with  the  carbon  arc  to  prevent  an 
excessive  current  being  taken  from  the 
line.  If  such  a  rheostat  is  not  avail- 
able, a  serviceable  one  may  be  made  as 
follows : 

Obtain  two  pieces  of  tV-'O-  sheet 
iron,  G  by  6  in.,  that  are  to  form  the 
end  plates.  Cut  off  the  corners  of  one 
piece  so  as  to  form  an  octagon  and 
drill  a  number  of  %-in.  and  ^/4-in.  holes 
in  it,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6.  Bend  the 
corners  of  the  other  piece  down  along 
the  dotted  lines  marked  L,  Fig.  7,  and 
then  make  a  second  bend  in  each  cor- 
ner along  the  dotted  lines  K,  so  that 
the  outermost  portion  of  the  corner  is 
parallel  to  the  main  portion  of  the 
piece.  Drill  a  number  of 
i/g-in.  holes  in  this  piece  as 
indicated.  A  3-in.  opening 
should  be  cut  in  the  center 
of    this    piece    to 


give  access  to  the  interior  of  the  com- 
pleted rheostat.  Now  obtain  eight  %- 
in.  iron  rods,  10  in.  long.  Drill  and 
tap  each  end  of  these  rods  to  accom- 
modate a  Vs-in.  machine  screw.  Wrap 
several  layers  of  thin  sheet  asbestos 
around  each  rod  and  tie  it  in  place 
with  some  thread.  These  rods  should 
now  be  fastened  between  the  end 
plates  by  means  of  a  number  of 
iron  machine  screws.  Mount  four 
back-connected  binding  posts  on  the 
plate  shown  in  Fig.  G,  making  sure 
they  are  insulated  from  the  plate  by 
means  of  suitable  bushings  and 
washers. 

Procure  a  small  quantity  of  No. 
14  gauge  iron  wire.  Fasten  one  end 
of  the  wire  under  the  head  of  the  screw 
holding  one  of  the  binding  posts  in 
place  and  then  wind  it  around  the  rods 


-->l'  ° 

°  l""*^-/- 

o                 /— 

\ 

h'- 

^ 

o 

Detail  of  the  Upper  and  Lower  End  Plates  Tt.at 
are  Used  in  Making  a  Rheostat 

about  20  times,  making  the  distance 
between  the  turns  equal  to  the  diam- 
eter of  the  wire.  After  winding  on  the 
20  turns,  attach  a  short  piece  of  wire 
to  the  main  wire  and  fasten  the  free 
end  of  the  short  piece  to  one  of 
the  other  binding  posts. 
Wind  on  20  more  turns,  and 
make  another  connection  to 
the  third  binding  post, 
then  complete  the 


The   Furnace  Consists   of   a    Flowerpot   in   Which   a   Crucible   is   Set,   and   on    Either   Side 
the  Carbon   Holders   are  Fastened   to  the  Base 


375 


winding  and  attach  the  end  to  the 
remaining  binding  post.  Different 
amounts  of  this  resistance  can  now  be 
connected  in  series  with  the  arc  by 
changing  the  connections  from  one 
binding  post  to  another.    The  rheostat 


may  be  located  on  a  bracket  fastened 
to  the  wall,  but  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  place  it  in  such  a  position  that  it  will 
come  into  contact  with  inflammable 
material.  As  an  extra  precaution,  the 
circuit  should  be  properly  fused. 


Cleaning  Brass  Articles 

Embossed  or  undercut  brass  work 
may  be  easily  cleaned  by  boiling  the 
pieces  in  a  strong  solution  of  caustic 
soda  or  lye,  and  then  immersing  them 
in  a  mixture  of  hydrochloric  acid,  (j 
parts;  water,  2  parts,  and  nitric  acid,  1 
part,  until  they  become  covered  with  a 
dark  deposit.  Take  them  from  the 
solution  and  remove  the  black  sub- 
stance with  a  fine  scratch  brush.  After 
cleaned  in  this  manner,  rinse  in  hot 
water  and  dry  in  hot  sawdust. 

A  fine  orange-yellow  tinge  may  be 
given  to  the  brass  by  substituting  an 
equivalent  weight  of  powdered  alum 
for  the  nitric  acid  in  the  solution. — 
Contributed  by  Mrs.  Richard  F.  Pohle, 
E.  Lynn,  Mass. 


A  Whetting  Block 

A  handy  tool  gauge  for  sharpening 
the  various  tools  about  the  household 
is  made  of  a  block  of  wood  with  the 
sides  of  one  end  cut  sloping  in  different 
degrees  so  that  each  will  serve  to  se- 
cure the  proper  slant  of  the  cutting 
edge  on  a  certain  tool. 

The  block  of  wood  with  the  corners 
cut  is  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  the  man- 


The  Sloping  Edges  on  the  Block  of  Wood  and 
the  Manner  of  Whetting  a  Chisel 

ner  of  whetting  a  chisel  is  shown  in 
Fig.  2. — Contributed  by  Will  Parker, 
Wibaux,  Mont. 


CA  cardboard  cut  the  same  size  as  a 
page  and  fastened  with  paper  clips  in 
the  center  of  a  magazine  will  prevent 
the  pages  from  folding  over  when  the 
magazine  is  placed  in  a  bookcase. 


Submarine  Photographs 

A  photographer  at  a  seashore  resort, 
wishing  to  increase  his  sales  of  souve- 
nir postal  cards,  rigged  up  a  device  for 


The  Camera  Set  in  Front 
of  the  Aquarium  Ready  to 
Make    a    Submarine     Picture 

producing  negatives  to  make  "subma- 
rine" pictures.  The  device  consisted 
of  an  aquarium,  about  40  in.  long,  18 
in.  high  and  6  in.  wide.  The  aqua- 
rium was  designed  to  stand  on  edge  or 
the  narrow  way,  and  was  equipped 
with  rocks,  living  sea  moss,  kelp,  and 
some  fish,  and  the  bottom  was  covered 
with  sand  and  shells. 

A  canvas  was  hung  back  of  the  aqua- 
rium and  the  camera  set  in  front  at 
such  a  distance  as  to  make  a  negative 
of  only  the  water  and  the  prepared  sea 
bottom.  Very  fine  views  that  will 
give  the  appearance  of  being  made  at 
the  bottom  of  the  sea  can  be  produced. 


Mending  Paper-Pulp  Utensils 

Pails,  washtubs,  and  other  recep- 
tacles made  of  paper  pulp,  when 
cut  and  worn,  may  be  easily  mended 
with  adhesive  tape.  After  this  is 
applied  to  the  place  to  be  mended, 
give  the  mended  part  a  coating  of 
paint,  and  when  the  paint  has  dried, 
the  surface  is  given  another  coat  to 
match  the  color  of  the  article  mended. 
Leaks  may  be  entirely  stopped  in  this 
way  at  a  very  reasonable  cost. — Con- 
tributed by  Katharine  D.  Morse,  Syra- 
cuse, N.  Y. 


876 


A  Homemade  Mailing  Tube 

A  photograph  or  manuscript  may 
be  sent  through  the  mail  unmounted 
without  the  danger  of  being  broken  by 


The  Bends   in  the   Cardboard   are   Made   on    Lines 
Equal  Distances  Apart  to  Form  a  Triangle 

placing  it  in  a  tube  made  as  follows: 
For  an  8  by  10-in.  photograph  procure 
a  piece  of  cardboard  6  by  10  in.,  plain 
mounting  board  preferred,  and  cut 
halfway  through  the  card  in  three 
places  as  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in 
Fig.  1.  Then  fold  it  in  a  triangular 
shape  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  It  is  easy  to 
make  such  a  tube  to  fit  any  photo- 
graph or  manuscript  to  be  mailed. — 
Contributed  by  A.  H.  Schaefer,  Buf- 
falo, N.  Y. 


Cutter  for  Lace  Leather 

Lace  leather  may  be  easily  cut  with 
an  ordinary  pocket  knife  having  a 
U-shaped  block  fitted  on 
the  edge  of  the  blade. 
The  width  of  the  opening 
should  be  exact- 
ly the  same  as 
the  thickness  of 
the  leather  and  the  width 
of  the  lace  is  determined 
by  the  distance  between  the  blade  and 
the  depth  of  the  notch.  Several  places 
can  be  provided  for  the  blade  to  cut 
different  widths  of  lacing. — Contrib- 
uted by  A.  K.  Runkle,  Kinsman,  O. 


Refinishing  Chairs 

When  refinishing  chairs,  a  good  way 
to  get  at  the  bottom  part  is  to  turn 
the  chair  upside  down  and  place  its 
seat  on  the  seat  of  another  chair.  The 
legs  and  rungs  can  thus  be  easily 
cleaned  and  varnished. — Contributed 
by  A.  Mandeville,  Ware,  Mass. 


An  Electric  Gas  Lighter 

A  very  simple  and  inexpensive  elec- 
tric gas-lighting  device  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  illustration.  The  gas  is 
ignited  by  means  of  an  electric  spark 
which  is  produced  between  the  two 
parts  A  and  B  of  an  electric  circuit. 
This  circuit  is  composed  of  a  source  of 
electrical  energy,  such  as  a  number  of 
dry  cells,  a  kick  coil,  the  connecting 
leads,  and  a  special  operating  switch 
for  opening  and  closing  the  circuit  to 
produce  the  spark.  The  circuit  is  nor- 
mally open,  but  as  the  lever  control- 
ling the  gas  valve  is  moved  from  one 
position  to  the  other,  by  pulling  the 
chains,  the  lever  C  is  caused  to  move 
through  a  certain  arc.  Now,  as  this 
lever  C  moves,  its  upper  end  passes 
the  projecting  point  B,  which  is  at- 
tached to  the  upper  portion  of  the 
burner,  and  the  electric  circuit  will  be 
completed  and  broken.  Just  as  the 
point  A  leaves  contact  with  the  point 
B  an  arc  will  be  produced.  This  arc  is 
greatly  intensified  by  the  kick  coil, 
which  acts  as  a  sort  of  reservoir  in 
which  energy  is  stored  while  the  cir- 
cuit is  closed,  and  upon  opening  the 
circuit  this  stored  energy  is  given  out 
by  the  kick  coil  and  increases  the  size 
of  the  arc. 

The  points  A  and  B  should  both  be 
made  of  platinum,  as  other  metals  will 
not  withstand  the  extremely  high  tem- 
perature of  the  arc.  Pieces  of  platinum 
that  will  serve  very  nicely  for  the  pur- 
pose may  be  obtained  from  an  old  in- 
candescent lamp.  The  piece  B  is 
mounted  on  a  brass  collar,  D,  by 
means  of  a  small  screw,  E.  The  brass 
collar  D  is  held  in  place  by  the  screw 
F,  which  draws  the  two  ends  together. 
This  collar  must  be  insulated  from  the 
stem  or  fixture  by  some  thin  sheets  of 
mica.  The  upper  end  of  the  piece  of 
platinum  B  should  be  just  high 
enough  to  come  within  the  lower  edge 
of  the  gas  flame. 

Now  mount  an  arm,  C,  on  the  valve 
stem  so  that  it  stands  in  a  vertical  po- 
sition when  the  lever  to  which  the 
chains  are  attached  is  in  a  horizontal 
position.    Bend  this  arm  into  the  form 


377 


shown  in  the  figure  and  cut  its  upper 
end  off  so  that  it  is  about  1/2  in.  below 
the  outwardly  projecting  end  of  the 
piece  of  platinum  B.  Drill  a  small  hole 
in  the  upper  end  of  C,  and  insert  a 
piece  of  platinum  and  run  some  solder 
around  it. 

Then  the  complete  burner  and  valve 
are  mounted  on  the  gas  fixture,  and 
from  the  collar  D  an  insulated  wire  is 
run  to  the  point  where  the  battery  and 
kick  coil  are  to  be  located.  The  gas 
fixture  itself  is  to  form  one  side  of  the 
electric  circuit,  and  one  terminal  of  the 
battery  should  be  connected  to  the  gas 
pipe  as  shown  in  the  figure. 

A  kick  coil  may  be  made  as  follows: 
Procure    a    small    quantity    of    rather 
small  soft-iron  wire  and  cut  a  sufficient 
number    of    8-in.    lengths    to    make    a 
bundle  about  %  in.  in  diameter.    From 
some  good  writing  paper  make  a  tube, 
8  in.  long  and  %  i"-  Jri  outside  diame- 
ter.    Use  at  least  six  layers  of  paper 
and  glue  the  various  layers  together  in 
forming   this    paper   tube.      After    the 
tube  has  dried  thoroughly,  fill  it  with 
the  pieces  of  iron  wire  until  it  is  per- 
fectly   hard.     Cut    from    some    y2-in. 
hard  wood,  two   pieces,   3   in.   square, 
and  drill  a  Ys-in.  hole  in  the  center  of 
each  of  these  to  a  depth  of  %  in-    Now 
glue  these  pieces  to  the  completed  core 
and  the  winding  can  begin  as  soon  as 
the  glue  is  dry.     Wind  on  this  spool 
six    layers    of    double    cotton-covered 
No.  18  gauge  wire,  insulating  the  va- 
rious layers  from  each  other  with  sev- 
eral thicknesses  of  good  writing  paper. 
This  coil  is  then  mounted  on  a  wooden 
base  and   suitable  terminals  provided. 
At  least   four  dry  cells  will  be   re- 
quired   to    give     satisfactory    results. 
Bear  in  mind  that  the  gas  must  be  es- 
caping from  the  burner  when  the  arc 
is  formed.    The  adjustment  of  the  arm 
A,  as  given  above,  may  result  in  the 
gas  valve  being  closed  when  the  arc  is 
formed,  and  the  device  will  then  fail  to 
operate.     If  this  is  the  case,  the  arm  C 
should  be  loosened  and  moved  back  so 
that   the   circuit   is   broken   at   a   later 
time  while  the  valve  is  being  moved 
from  the  "off"  to  "on"  position.     The 
circuit  should  be  closed  for  some  little 


time  before  it  is  opened  so  that  sorne 
energy  may  be  stored  in  the  kick  coil. 
If  the  wire  A  is  made  long  enough  to 


The  Igniting  Points  as 
They  are  Attached  to  a 
Gas  Burner  to  "Work 
Automatically 


project  a  short  distance  above  B,  it 
will  result  in  the  circuit  being  closed 
for  a  longer  time  than  it  would  if  they 
just  touched. 


Stretching  Tight-Fitting   Shoes 

A  tight-fitting  shoe  can  be  stretched 
by  filling  it  tightly  with  oats  dampened 
in  water  and  packing  some  old  paper 
in  the  top.  The  grain  will  quickly  swell 
and,  as  the  leather  will  get  softened 
by  the  dampness,  the  shoe  will  be  rap- 
idly stretched.  Allow  time  for  the 
oats  to  dry  out  before  removing  them. 
— Contributed  by  Fred  L.  King,  Islip, 
New  York. 


Pad  for  a  Percolator 

To  prevent  heating  the  bowl  of  a 
percolator  and  burning  the  handle,  as 
often  happens 
when  it  is  placed 
on  a  stove,  use 
an  ordinary  as- 
bestos pad   with 

a  hole  cut  in  the  center  as  shown,  just 
large  enough  to  admit  the  foot  of  the 
percolator.— Contributed  by  Mrs.  G. 
W.  Coplin,  Bay  City,  Mich. 


Clf  a  motorcycle  engine  is  raced  while 
on  the  stand,  the  cylinder  will  heat, 
often  with  the  result  that  it  is  ruined. 


378 


Compass  Time  Chart 

A  very  instructive  little  instrument 
can  be  easily  made  for  telling  the  time 
of  any  location  on  the  globe.     Its  con- 


A  Time  Chart  for  Telling  the  Hour  of  the  Day  at 
Any  Place  on  the   Globe 

struction  is  extremely  simple.  Draw  a 
circle,  about  II/2  '"•  in  diameter,  on  a 
piece  of  paper  and  then  draw  a  larger 
circle,  about  4  in.  in  diameter,  around 
the  first  one.  Divide  the  circles  into  36 
equal  parts  and  draw  lines  from  one 
circle  to  the  other  like  the  spokes  in  a 
wheel.  These  divisions  will  be  10  deg., 
or  40  minutes  of  time,  apart.  They 
should  be  numbered  around  the  out- 
side, commencing  at  a  point  marked  0 
and  marking  the  numbers  by  tens  each 
way  until  they  meet  at  180  deg. 

Using  a  map  of  the  eastern  and 
western  hemispheres,  write  the  names 
of  the  different  cities  on  the  globe  in 
their  respective  degrees  of  longitude. 
The  center,  or  inside,  of  the  smaller 
circle  is  divided  into  24  divisions  repre- 
senting the  hours  of  the  day  and  night, 
and  these  are  marked  from  1  to  12,  the 
left  side  being  forenoon,  and  the  right, 
afternoon.  The  noon  mark  must  be 
set  on  the  line  nearest  to  the  location 
in  which  the  instrument  is  to  be  used. 
For  instance,  if  the  instrument  is  to  be 
used  in  Chicago,  it  is  set  as  shown  in 
the  sketch. 

The  disk  is  mounted  on  a  thin  piece 
of  board  and  a  pin  is  driven  through 


the  center  from  the  back  side  so  as  to 
make  a  projecting  point  on  the  upper 
side  on  which  to  place  the  magnetized 
needle  of  a  compass.  The  needle  may 
be  taken  from  any  cheap  compass. 

All  that  is  necessary  to  do,  to  tell 
what  time  it  is  in  any  other  city  or 
country,  is  to  turn  the  instrument  so 
that  the  name  of  that  place  points 
toward  the  sun,  when  the  north  end 
of  the  compass  needle  will  point  on  the 
disk  to  the  time  it  is  in  that  city  or 
locality. — Contributed  by  Henry  J. 
Marion,  Pontiac,  Mich. 


Reversing  Switch  for  Small  Motors 

A  reversing  switch  made  as  fol- 
lows will  be  found  very  serviceable  in 
reversing  the  direction  of  the  rotation 
of  small  motors,  changing  the  polarity 
of  electromagnets,  etc. 

A  diagram  of  the  connections  to  the 
switch  and  on  the  switch  base  is  given 
in  the  sketch,  and  in  this  particular 
case  the  switch  is  shown  connected  to 
a  small  toy  motor.  The  field  of  the 
motor  is  represented  by  A,  the  arma- 
ture by  B  ;  and  C,  D,  E,  and  F  are  four 
binding  posts  mounted  on  the  base  of 
the  switch  ;  G,  H,  and  I  are  three  con- 
tacts ;  J  and  K  are  terminals  of  the 
switch  blades,  and  L  a  single-pole 
switch.  The  two  blades  of  the  revers- 
ing switch  have  their  lower  ends  fast- 
ened to  the  terminals  J  and  K,  and 
their  upper  ends,  which  are  indicated 
by  arrow  heads,  may  be  moved  over 
the  contacts  G,  H,  and  I.  For  the 
position  of  the  reversing  switch  shown 
by  the  full  lines,  J  is  connected  to  G 
and  K  to  H.  When  the  switch  is 
thrown  to  the  right-hand  position,  as 
shown  by  the  dotted  lines,  J  is  con- 
nected to  H  and  K  to  I.  It  is  obvious 
that  the  direction  of  the  current 
through  the  armature  B  will  be  re- 
versed when  the  reversing  switch  is 
thrown  from  one  position  to  the  other. 
The  direction  in  which  the  armature 
rotates  will  change,  due  to  the  reversal 
in  direction  of  the  current  through  it. 
The  same  results  could  be  obtained  by 
reversing  the  current  in  the  field  wind- 
ing A.    But  it  must  always  be  borne  in 


379 


mind  that  in  order  to  reverse  the  direc- 
tion of  rotation,  the  current  must  be 
reversed  in  the  armature  only  or  in  the 
field  only,  not  in  both. 

The  above  switch  may  be  con- 
structed as  follows:  First,  procure  a 
piece  of  well-seasoned  hard  wood,  say 
maple,  i/o  in.  thick,  2i/L'  in.  wide  and  4 
in.  long.  Round  ofif  the  corners  and 
the  edges  of  this  piece  on  one  side  and 
drill  the  holes  indicated  in  the  sketch. 
The  four  corner  holes  should  be  of 
such  a  size  as  to  accommodate  the 
screws  used  in  mounting  four  small 
back-connected  binding  posts.  The 
remaining  holes  should  be  %  in.  All 
these  holes  should  be  countersunk 
with  a  %-in.  bit  to  a  depth  of  i/4  in-  on 
the  under  side. 

Cut  from  some  iV-in.  sheet  brass 
two  pieces,  2%  in.  long,  %  in.  wide  at 
one  end  and  14  in.  at  the  other,  and 
round  their  ends.  Drill  a  Vs-in.  hole 
through  the  larger  end  of  each  of 
these  pieces,  1^4  'n.  from  the  end,  and 
also  a  hole  through  each,  I14  in.  from 
the  narrow  end.  The  last  two  holes 
should  be  threaded  for  %-in.  machine 
screws.  Obtain  five  y^;-in.  brass  bolts, 
14  in.  long.  File  the  heads  of  three  of 
these  bolts  down  to  a  thickness  of  ap- 
proximatel}'  ^  in.  and  mount  them  in 
the  holes  G,  H  and  I.  Before  mount- 
ing anything  on  the  base  the  grooves 
indicated  by  the  hea\-y  dotted  lines 
should  be  cut  in  the  under  side  so  that 
the  various  points  may  be  properly 
connected  by  conductors  placed  in  the 
grooves.  Now  mount  the  two  pieces 
of  sheet  brass  upon  the  base  by  means 
of  the  remaining  two  bolts,  which 
should  pass  through  the  holes  J  and  K. 
A  xV-in.  washer  should  be  placed  be- 
tween the  pieces  of  brass  and  the 
wooden  base. 

Procure  a  piece  of  %-in.  fiber,  I14 
in.  long  and  %  in.  broad.  Drill  two 
%-in.  holes  in  this  piece,  one  in  each 
end,  so  that  they  are  1  in.  apart.  Drill 
a  third  %-in.  hole  in  the  center  and 
fasten  a  small  handle  to  the  piece  of 
fiber.  Now  mount  this  piece  upon  the 
two  pieces  of  brass  that  form  the 
blades  of  the  switch  by  means  of  two 
small  %-in.  brass  machine  screws. 


Two  small  brads  should  be  driven 
into  the  wooden  base  so  as  to  prevent 
the    possibility    of    the    switch    blades 


-0-0 


.T 


-I  —t- 


<z--- 


|_-L 


-} 


Diagram  of  the  Wiring  to  a  Small  Motor  and  the 
Details  of  the  Switch 

moving  beyond  their  proper  position. 
Two  pieces  of  iV-in.  fiber  should  be 
])laced  between  the  heads  of  the  screws 
G  and  H,  and  H  and  I,  to  prevent  the 
ends  of  the  switch  blades  from  drop- 
ping down  on  the  wooden  base. 


Adjustable  Rod  for  Potted  Plants 

Procure  a  brass  sash-curtain  rod  of 
the  telescoping  kind  and  stick  the  solid 
part  into  the  soil  close  to  the  plant  and 
tie  it  to  the  rod.  As  the  plant  grows 
move  the  tubular  part  of  the  rod  up- 
ward to  correspond  with  the  height  of 
the  plant.  This  makes  a  good  support 
and  is  not  so  unsightly  as  a  stick, — ■ 
Contributed  by  Gertrude  M.  Bender, 
Utica,  N.  Y. 


Wrench  for  Different-Size  Nuts 

A  very  handy  wrench  can  be  made 
from  a  piece  of  square  bar,  shaped  as 
shown  and  fitted  with  a  handle.  The 
joint  at  A  may  be  halved  and  riveted 
or  a  weld  made  as  desired.     The  size 


The  Sloping  Notch  in  the  Wrench  Permits  Its 
Use  on  Nuts  of  Various  Size 

of  the  bar  and  the  space  between  the 
parts  will  depend  on  the  size  of  nuts 
to  be  turned. 


380 


A  Simple  Sextant 
» 

A  sextant  for  measuring  the  latitude 
of  any  place  can  be  easily  constructed 
as  follows :  While  a  board,  1  in.  thick, 
6  in.  wide,  and  12  in.  long  is  about  right 
for  the  instrument,  any  dimensions 
can  be  used,  providing  the  line  AB 
is  at  perfect  right  angles  to  the  level 
of  the  sights  C  and  D.  The  sights  are 
better  to  use,  although  the  upper  edge 
of  the  board,  if  it  is  perfectly  straight, 
vill  do  as  well.  If  it  is  desired  to  use 
sights,  a  slight  groove  is  cut  in  the  up- 
per edge;  a  V-shaped  piece,  cut  from 
tin,  is  fastened  at  one  end,  and  a  small 
pointed  nail  is  driven  in  at  the  otlier. 
In  doing  this,  be  sure  to  level  the 
bottom  of  the  V-notch  and  nail  point 
so  that  in  drawing  the  line  AB  it  will 
be  at  perfect  right  angles  to  a  line  be- 
tween the  sights.  A  tack  is  driven  into 
the  side  of  the  board  at  the  upper  edge, 
a  line  fastened  to  it  and  a  weight  tied 
to  the  lower  end  which  should  fwing 
below  the  lower  edge  of  the  board. 


♦-■^ 


The  Main  Part  of  the  Instrument  Consists  of  a 
Board  witli  a  Plumb  Attached 

The  instrument  is  placed  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  North  Star  is  sighted, 
as  shown,  and  the  point  on  the  lower 
edge  of  the  board  is  marked  where  the 
line  E  comes  to  rest.  A  line  is  then 
drawn  from  A  to  the  point  marked  and 


the  angle  F  is  measured  with  a  pro- 
tractor. The  number  of  degrees  in  this 
angle  will  be  approximately  equal  to 


*---— 


■\ 


NORTH  STAR  * 


*. 


The  Two  Stars  at  the  End  of  the  Great  Dipper  are 
Pointers  to  the  North  Star 

the  number  of  degrees  in  the  latitude 
of  that  place. 

The  North  Star  is  easily  located  by 
reason  of  its  position  relative  to  the 
Great  Dipper,  as  shown  by  the  dia- 
gram.— Contributed  by  Carlos  Harri- 
son, Anderson,  Ind. 


How  to  Make  a  Taper  Ferrule 

Having  occasion  to  make  a  taper 
ferrule  of  irregular  form,  a  pattern  from 
which  to  cut  the  material  was  made  as 
follows ;  A  mandrel  of  the  desired 
shape  was  made,  a  piece  of  writing 
paper,  soaked  in  water,  wrapped  around 
the  mandrel,  and  a  piece  of  twine 
wound  over  it,  coil  after  coil  like  the 
thread  on  a  spool.  This  was  allowed 
to  dry  thoroughly,  using  a  little  heat. 
The  string  was  then  removed  and  a 
longitudinal  cut  made  in  the  paper 
while  on  the  mandrel.  When  opened 
this  paper  formed  the  pattern. 

A  piece  of  metal  was  cut  from  the 
pattern  and  the  edges  were  brought  to- 
gether and  brazed  with  spelter.  The 
point  of  the  mandrel  was  driven 
through  a  piece  of  block  tin,  about  % 
in.  thick.  The  mandrel  was  then  re- 
moved, the  ferrule  was  placed  on  it.  and 
both  then  started  in  the  hole  made  in 
the  tin  and  driven  through  it.  As  the 
mandrel  with  the  ferrule  passed 
through  the  tin,  the  metal  was  shaped 
exactly  to  the  mandrel.  It  is  best  to 
oil  the  hole  in  the  tin  slightly.  Tin  is 
preferable  as  it  is  harder. — Contributed 
by  James  H.  Beebee,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 


381 


How  to  Make  a  Continuously  Ringing 
Bell 

The  bell  shown  in  the  accompanying 
diagram  is  known  as  the  continuously 
ringing  type,  and  has  quite  a  field  of 
usefulness  in  connection  with  burglar 
alarms,  door-bell  signals,  telephone  sig- 
nals, etc.  The  operation  of  the  bell 
proper  is  identical  with  that  of  the 
ordinary  vibrating  bell  and,  in  addi- 
tion, there  is  a  circuit  controlled  by  the 
armature  of  the  bell,  which  is  normally 
open,  but  becomes  closed  as  soon  as 
the  armature  is  drawn  over.  The  clos- 
ing of  this  circuit  by  the  operation  of 
the  armature  amounts  to  keeping  the 
push  button  in  the  bell  circuit  de- 
pressed, and  the  l)ell  will  continue  to 
ring  until  the  latch  A  is  restored  by 
pulling  the  cord  B. 

Any  ordinary  vibrating  bell  may  be 
converted  into  a  continuously  ringing 
bell  as  follows :  In  the  armature,  C, 
mount  a  short  metal  pin,  D,  and  round 
off  its  under  side  slightly.  A  latch,  A, 
should  now  be  constructed  similar  to 
the  one  shown  in  the  sketch  and 
mounted  in  such  a  position  that  its  left 
end  will  rest  on  the  outer  end  of  the  pin 
D  when  the  armature,  C,  of  the  bell  is 
in  its  extreme  outer  position.  The 
length  of  the  latch  should  be  such  that 
its  left  end  will  drop  oft'  the  end  of  the 
pin  D,  due  to  the  action  of  the  spring 
E,  when  the  armature  C  is  drawn  over 


An  Ordinary  Vibrating  Bell  Used  as  a   Continuously 
Ringing  Bell,  and  the  Wiring  Diagram 

by  the  electromagnets  F,  thus  allow- 
ing it  to  come  into  contact  with  a  spring 
G,  which   is   electrically  connected  to 


the  terminal  of  the  bell  marked  H. 
The  latch  A  is  connected  to  one  side  of 
the  line,  as  shown  in  the  sketch,  so 
as  to  include  the  bell  winding  and 
battery  in  a  local  circuit  that  is  formed 
by  the  latch  coming  in  contact  with  the 
spring  G.  The  end  of  the  latch  should 
not  interfere  with  the  free  operation 
of  the  armature  when  it  is  resting  on 
the  spring  G.  A  cord,  B,  attached  to 
the  outer  end  of  the  latch,  is  used 
in  restoring  it,  and  at  the  same  time 
stopping  the  bell  from  ringing.  The 
tension  in  the  spring  E  should  be  so 
adjusted  that  the  operation  of  the  latch 
is  sure  and  firm,  yet  not  too  stiff. 


A  Mission-Style  Inkstand 

Having  a   couple  of  good-sized   ink 
bottles    of    the    ordinary    type    lying 


Two  Pieces  of  Pine  Shaped  to  Receive  the  Inkwells 
and  Finished  in  Mission  Style 

around,  I  fashioned  a  mission-style 
stand  for  them  out  of  a  piece  of  yellow 
pine,  2  in.  wide  and  3  in.  long,  set  on 
another  piece  of  pine  large  enough  to 
project  all  around  on  all  four  sides  of 
the  block,  for  a  base.  The  wells  were 
cut  out  with  a  wood  chisel,  and  the 
parts  fastened  together  with  screws. 
The  supports  were  four  brass-head  or 
upholsterer's  tacks.  The  finish  was  flat 
black. — Contributed  by  James  M. 
Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


Raising  Dents  in  Wood 

The  imprint  of  a  hammer  on  finely 
finished  wood  caused  by  a  glancing 
blow,  or  otherwise,  may  be  removed 
in  the  following  manner  :  Pour  enough 
wood  alcohol  on  the  dented  spot  to 
cover  it,  then  light  the  alcohol  and 
allow  it  to  burn  out.  The  heat  will 
expand  the  wood  and  raise  it  enough 
so  that  the  spot  can  be  planed  and 
smoothed  in  the  usual  manner. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  F.  Elwell,  Waltham, 
Massachusetts. 


382 


Carrying  Two  Pails  in  One  Hand 

When  it  is  necessary  to  carry  two 
small  filled  pails  in  one  hand  and  a 
package  in  the  other  it  will  be  found  a 


Two  Filled  Pails  can  be  Readily  Carried  by  Placing 
the  Bails  on  the  Ends  of  a  Stick 

very  difficult  job,  if  the  contents  are 
liquid.  Procure  a  stick  of  sufficient 
size  to  carry  the  weight  of  the  pails 
and  cut  a  small  notch  in  each  end  to 
admit  the  bail.  Place  a  pail  on  each 
end  of  the  stick  and  take  hold  in  the 
center,  or,  if  the  pails  are  not  equally 
filled,  a  little  to  one  side  of  the  center. 


Preserving  Paint  in  Open  Cans 

To  keep  paint  from  drying  out  in 
an  open  can  it  is  necessary  to  exclude 
the  air  from  the  oil.  This  can  be 
done  by  procuring  an  air-tight  paper 
sack,  which  is  tested  by  blowing  into 
it.  Set  the  can  into  the  sack  and  tie 
it  tightly  with  a  cord.  Mixed  paint 
will  be  kept  in  a  working  state  in  this 
manner., 


Jelly-Straining  Stand 

Procure  a  board,  %  i"-  thick  and  13 
in.  square,  and  cut  a  hole,  about  1  ft. 
in  diameter,  in  the  center.  Fasten 
posts,  4  ft.  long, 
to  each  corner. 
Screw  hooks  are 
located  around 
the  edge  of  the 
hole  to  catch 
into  the  cloth 
used  for  holding 
the  fruit.  The 
stand  is  high 
enough  to  be 
convenient  and 
admit  a  vessel 
beneath  to  catch  the  juice. 


Renewing  Dry  Batteries 

It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  dry  cells 
commence  to  deteriorate  from  the  time 
they  are  manufactured,  and  it  is  a  mat- 
ter of  considerable  uncertainty  in  pur- 
chasing cells  to  know  whether  they 
will  continue  to  be  efficient  for  their 
supposed  natural  life  under  the  exist- 
ing conditions  of  service,  or  for  only 
a  small  part  of  this  period.  When  the 
voltage  of  a  dry  cell  falls  below  a  cer- 
tain value  it  is  usually  discarded  and 
replaced  by  a  new  one,  which  often 
means  quite  an  expense.  The  follow- 
ing simple  suggestion  will  enable  one 
to  renew  the  prematurely  exhausted 
cell  with  very  little  trouble  and  slight 
expense,  so  that  its  period  of  useful- 
ness will  be  extended  for  a  length  of 
time,  at  least 
equal  to  that  for 
which  it  could  be 
used  if  put  into 
service  immedi- 
ately after  its 
manufacture. 

The  procedure 
in  renewing  the 
cell  is  as  follows  : 
A  casing  is 
placed  outside  of 
the  zinc-contain- 
ing case,  having 
inside  dimen- 
sions a  little  greater  than  the  zinc  cup. 
The  space  between  the  zinc  cup  and 
case  is  filled  with  a  dry  electrolyte, 
which,  upon  the  addition  of  moisture, 
sets  up  a  chemical  action  with  the 
exterior  surface  of  the  zinc,  and  the 
latter  having  been  perforated,  causes 
electrical  action  to  be  again  produced. 

The  casing,  or  cup,  to  be  used  out- 
side the  zinc  cup  should  be  made  of  a 
waterproof  material.  The  electrolyte 
instead  of  being  placed  between  this 
cup  and  the  zinc  in  a  powdered  form,  as 
might  be  expected,  should  be  held  by 
several  layers  of  blotting  paper,  formed 
into  a  cylinder  of  the  proper  diameter 
to  fit  snugly  on  the  outside  of  the  zinc 
cup.  This  porous  cup  should  be  im- 
pregnated with  a  solution  containing 
the  following  materials  in  the  approxi- 


383 


mate  amounts  given:  Muriate  ot  am- 
monia, 10  parts ;  bichromate  of  potash, 
4  parts,  and  chloride  of  sodium,  4 
parts.  After  the  porous  cup  has  thor- 
oughly soaked  in  the  above  solution 
it  should  be  dried  by  passing  a  roller 
over  its  external  surface  when  it  is 
mounted  on  a  wooden  cylinder  of 
proper  diameter.  The  moisture-proof 
cup  may  be  formed  outside  the  porous 
cup  by  covering  the  latter  with  several 
coats  of  waterproofing  paste  and  wind- 
ing on  several  thicknesses  of  common 
manila  paper,  each  layer  of  paper  be- 
ing treated  with  the  paste.  A  disk  of 
cardboard,  properly  treated,  should  be 
placed  in  the  end  of  the  cylinder  to 
form  the  bottom,  and  the  edge  of  the 
manila  paper  folded  in  over  it  and 
pasted  in  place. 

The  pasteboard  covering  surround- 
ing the  zinc  cup  of  the  cell  should  be 
removed  and  the  surface  of  the  zinc 
thoroughly  cleaned.  The  coal  tar  in 
the  top  of  the  zinc  cup  should  be  re- 
moved by  tapping  around  the  edge  with 
a  hammer,  and  a  large  number  of  small 
holes  should  be  made  in  the  walls  of 
the  cup  with  a  sharp  instrument.  Then 
put  the  cell  within  the  porous  cup  and 
fill  the  top  with  clear  water,  preferably 
rain  water.  A  chemical  reaction  will 
immediately  take  place  between  the 
outer  surface  of  the  zinc  and  the  chem- 
icals contained  in  the  material  forming 
the  porous  cup,  and  the  terminal  volt- 
age of  the  cell  will  be  practically  the 
same  as  it  was  when  the  cell  was  new. 
The  water,  of  course,  must  be  replen- 
ished from  time  to  time  on  account  of 
evaporation,  and  the  useful  life  of  the 
cell  can  be  prolonged  for  a  consider- 
able time.  A  part  cross  section  of  a 
cell  treated  as  described  above  is  shown 
in  the  accompanying  sketch. 


thus  have  the  necessary  tools  at  hand 
for  work.  A  plank,  3  in.  thick,  10  in. 
wide  and  18  in.  long,  was  planed  and 


Workbench  Equipment  for  a 
Table   Top 

The  average  home  mechanic  with  a 
few  tools  seldom  has  a  place  to  work 
and  is  usually  without  a  workbench. 
As  this  was  my  case,  I  constructed  a 
bench  e':]uipment  that  I  could  easily 
clamp  to  the  kitchen  or  other  table  and 


The  Bench  Top  can  be  Quickly  Attached  to  Any 
Table  Top  without  Harming  It 

smoothed  up  on  all  sides,  and  a  vise 
and  a  bench  pin  were  fastened  on  one 
edge. 

To  the  under  side  of  the  same  edge 
two  blocks  were  securely  fastened,  as 
shown,  and  to  these  blocks  two  other 
pieces  were  fastened  with  hinges.  With 
a  bolt,  running  through  from  the  top, 
and  a  thumb  nut  used  underneath, 
these  pieces  are  used  as  clamps  for 
holding  the  bench  to  the  table  top. 
The  top  can  be  removed  and  set  away  in 
a  closet  when  not  in  use. — Contributed 
by  Wm.  H.  Hathaway,  Nutley,  N.  J. 


A  Nonsticking  Drawer  Guide 

The  guide  shown  is  nonbinding  and 
has  been  found  thoroughly  practical 
after  several  years'  use  on  furniture. 
The  guide  A 
consists  of  a 
piece  of  wood, 
about  lYs  in. 
square,  with  a 
concave  cut  in 
its  upper  edge, 
the  width  being 
about  %  in. 
and  the  depth 
such  as  not  to 
cut  through  the 
extending  end 
projecting  over 
the  crossbar  B. 
The  drawer  sides  have  a  half-round 
edge  on  the  bottom  edge  to  run  in  the 
groove  in  the  guide.  The  difference 
in  width  between  the  groove  in  the 
guide  and  the  rounding  edge  on  the 
drawer  side  causes  the  drawer  always 
to  ride  snugly  without  binding  as 
the  wood  expands  or  contracts  with 
changes  in  the  weather. — Contributed 
by  Herman   Hermann,  Portland,  Ind. 


384 


A  Milk  Stool 

The  stool  is  made  of  three  pieces  of 
board  and  a  piece  of  round,  or  stake, 
iron.   The  appearance   and   manner  of 


A  Milk  Stool  Having  a  Place  to  Keep  the  Bucket 
Clean  and  at  the  Right  Height 

construction  are  clearly  shown  in  the 
illustration.  The  seat  board  is  sawed 
out  to  fit  the  circumference  of  the 
bucket  to  be  used,  and  the  iron  is  also 
bent  to  this  curve  and  fastened  to  the 
board  as  shown.  The  little  shelf  on 
the  front  support  holds  the  bucket  at 
the  right  height,  and  keeps  it  clean  and 
out  of  the  way  of  the  cow's  foot  while 
milking. 


arrangement  can  be  made  as  shown  in 
the  diagram,  in  which  A  represents  the 
antenna  or  aerial;  B.  the  detector,  and 
C,  the  receiver.  Procure  a  small  micro- 
phone, D,  placing  its  mouthpiece 
closely  against  the  receiver — for  the 
sake  of  clearness  the  two  are  separated 
in  the  diagram — and  connect  the  former 
with  a  battery,  F,  of  two  or  three  dry 
cells,  in  series  with  the  microphone  of 
an  ordinary  telephone  transmitter  pro- 
vided with  a  large  horn.  The  effect  ob- 
tained by  this  simple  means  will  be  sur- 
prising. 

Joint  for  Mission  Furniture 

The  mortise  for  this  joint  is  made  in 
the  usual  manner,  the  only  require- 
ments being  that  the  mortise  is  run 
through  the  piece,  and  the  tenon  is 
cut  Vs'in.  shorter  than  the  depth  of  the 


Sounder  for  Wireless-Telegraph 
Messages 

The  owner  of  an  amateur  wireless 
outfit  often  has  reason  to  regret  that  he 
cannot  let  some  of  his  friends  listen  to 
a  message  at  the  same  time  as  he  him- 
self. The  magnifier  described  in  the 
following  permits  all  those  present  in 
the  room  to  hear  the  message,  provided, 
of  course,  they  are  able  to  interpret  the 
Morse  alphabet  by  sound. 

A   very    simple   means,   making  the 


afcpg    GROUND 


The  Phonograph  Horn  as  It  is  Connected  to  a 
Detector  for  Transmitting  the  Messages 

message  audible  at  a  distance  of  about 
10  ft.,  is  to  attach  a  phonograph  horn, 
or  a  horn  of  cardboard  or  metal,  to  the 
telephone  receiver,  but  a  much  better 


Metal  Covering  and  Holder  for  a  Tenon  and 
Mortise  Joint  on  Mission  Furniture 

mortise  or  the  width  of  the  piece  it  is 
entering.  The  end  of  the  tenon  and 
the  mortise  is  then  covered  with  a 
piece  of  metal,  fastened  with  screws  as 
shown.  The  metal  can  be  of  any 
desired  material  and  beveled  on  the 
edges.  This  makes  a  very  good  knock- 
down joint  for  mission  furniture. — 
Contributed  by  H.  R.  Allen.  Cheyenne, 
Wyoming. 

A  Tow^el  Roller 

A  substantial,  convenient  and  non- 
rusting  towel  roller  can  be  made  from 
8  or  0  of  tlie  familiar  wood  handles  on 
bundle  carriers  and  a  length  of  brass 
curtain  rod.  The  bracket  ends  can  be 
shaped  from  any  piece  of  wood  of  suit- 
able dimensions.  The  rollers  and  ends 
can  be  finished  as  desired. — Contrib- 
uted by  F.  E.  S.,  E.  Lynn,  Mass. 


385 


An  Electric  Shaving  Mug 


The  general  use  of  electricity  in  the 
home  has  opened  up  a  new  field  in  the 
way  of  heating  and  cooking  utensils. 
While  these  utensils  are  sold  by  elec- 
tric-supply houses,  some  of  them  can 
be  easily  made  at  home  and  answer 
the  purpose  just  as  nicely.  One  of 
these  is  the  eiectric  shaving  mug. 

A  mug  that  will  stand  heat  is  the 
first  thing  required,  and  an  aluminum 
cup  of  standard  shape  and  design, 
which  can  be  bought  in  almost  every 
town,   will   do   perfectly   well.     These 


clamp  has  a  screw  in  the  center  to 
tighten  it  in  place.  The  legs  and 
clamp  may  be  nickelplated  if  desired. 

The  heating  coil  is  shown  in  Fig.  4 
which  is  a  coil  of  flat  "Nichrome" 
wire,  or  ribbon  as  it  is  called,  12  ft. 
long,  3^  in.  wide  and  3/1000  in.  thick. 
This  is  equal  in  cross  section  to  a  No, 
26  gauge  wire.  To  wind  this  coil,  pro- 
cure a  block  of  wood,  y^  in.  thick  and 
about  4  in.  square,  with  a  %-iu.  hole  in 
the  center  for  an  axis  or  pivot.  Clamp 
a  i/2-in.  rod  in  a  vise  so  that  the  block 


t 

Is 

♦-^-,„                    -^ 

1 

O                          -«M 

—  X 
rie.3 


m 


1^5 


\^fU 


Fio.2 


FCG.7 


Fig. 4 

Detail  of  the  Parts  for   the  Construction   of  an   Electric   Shaving   Mug.    The   Heating   of  Sufficient  ^Vater   for 
a    Shave  can    be  Accomplished    at   a   Nominal    Cost 


cups  are  spun  from  a  flat  sheet  and 
have  no  seams  to  open  and  leak,  and 
it  is  necessary  that  no  holes  be  drilled 
in  the  cup  as  it  is  impossible  to  make 
such  a  hole  watertight.  The  heating 
element  must  be  fastened  to  the  mug 
with  a  clamp.  The  clamp  will  also 
allow  the  heating  coil  to  be  removed 
for  repairs  without  injury  to  the  mug. 
The  bottoms  of  these  mugs  have  a 
flange  which  makes  a  recessed  part 
and  in  this  the  heating  element  is 
placed. 

The  legs  of  the  mug  are  made  of 
sheet  brass  as  shown  in  Fig.  1,  one  of 
the  three  having  an  enlargement  near 
its  center  with  a  hole  for  an  insulating 
button  (Fig.  2),  of  "transite"  or  some 
other  material,  to  hold  the.  supply  cord 
in  place. 

The  clamp  for  holding  the  heating 
coil  in  place  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.    This 


can  be  rotated  about  it.  Begin  at  the 
center  and  fasten  one  end  of  the  rib- 
bon to  the  block,  leaving  about  2  in. 
projecting  for  a  connection,  then  pro- 
ceed to  wind  the  ribbon  in  a  spiral  coil, 
separating  each  turn  from  the  preced- 
ing one  with  a  strand  of  asbestos  cord. 
A  small  section  of  the  coil  is  shown  in 
Fig.  5,  in  which  A,  or  the  light  part, 
represents  the  asbestos  insulation,  and 
B,  or  the  black  lines,  the  heating  ele- 
ment. The  insulation  may  be  obtained 
by  untwisting  some  i/g-in.  round  as- 
bestos packing  and  using  one  of  the 
strands.  This  cord  insulates  each 
turn  of  the  ribbon  from  the  other  and 
the  current  must  travel  through  the 
whole  coil  without  jumping  across 
from  one  turn  to  the  other.  The 
whole  coil  must  be  closely  wound  to 
get  it  into  the  limited  space  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  mug. 


386 


Before  taking  the  coil  from  the 
block,  rub  into  its  surface  a  little  asbes- 
tos retort  cement,  or  a  cement  com- 
posed of  a  mixture  of  silicate  of  soda 
and  silica,  or  glass  sand.  This  mix- 
ture, when  dry,  will  tend  to  hold  the 
coil  together  and  the  current  may  be 
passed  through  the  coil  to  test  it  as 
well  as  to  bake  it  in  its  coiled  shape. 

The  support  for  the  heating  coil  is 
made  of  a  piece  of  iVi"-  asbestos 
wood  or  transite.  Cut  it  to  fit  into  the 
recessed  bottom  of  the  mug,  then  with 
a  chisel  remove  the  material  in  the  top 
to  form  a  depression  j^  in.  deep  to  re- 
ceive the  coil  with  its  top  flush.  The 
leads  of  the  coil  are  run  through  the 
disk.  The  surface  of  the  coil  is  then 
plastered  evenly  with  retort  cement. 
The  legs  are  fastened  to  a  second  piece 
of  insulating  material  with  round- 
head brass  machine  screws,  i/o  in.  long, 


with  nuts.  The  heads  of  these  screws 
are  shown  in  Fig.  6,  the  nuts  being 
above  the  brass  and  between  the  two 
insulating  pieces. 

The  ends  of  the  heating  ribbon  are 
brought  through  the  lower  insulating 
disk  and  attached  to  binding  posts  as 
shown.  The  leads  may  be  covered 
with  tape  to  prevent  any  short  circuit. 

The  mug  uses  SVo  amperes  at  110 
volts,  either  direct  or  alternating  cur- 
rent, and  it  will  cost  about  3  cents  an 
hour  to  operate  it.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  use  a  separable  attachment 
for  connecting,  as  an  ordinary  lamp 
socket  may  be  burned  out  by  turning 
off  the  current,  it  being  adapted  only 
to  a  small  capacity. 

In  assembling  the  parts,  several 
pieces  of  mica  should  be  placed  be- 
tween the  coil  and  the  metal  of  the 
mug  to  insulate  the  coil  from  the  mug. 


A  Handbag  Lock 

The  pickpocket  finds  it  easy  to  un- 
snap  a  handbag  and  remove  some 
of  the  contents, 
especially  in 
crowded  places. 
To  make  it  less 
easy  for  the  pick- 
pocket, I  fixed 
my  mother's 
handbag  as 
shown  in  the 
sketch.  I  used  a 
chain  which  had 
served  its  „  a  y 
holding  a  small 
coin  purse — any  small  chain  will  do — 
by  passing  it  through  the  links  that 
hold  the  handle  and  winding  it  once  or 
twice  around  the  snap  fasteners  to  hold 
them  securely  closed. 

The  chain  may  be  either  shortened 
enough  to  make  it  CDnvenient  to  hold 
with'the  handle  of  the  handbag,  or  may 
be  left  long  and  used  over  the  shoulder 
under  the  coat,  thus  making  it  possible 
to  have  both  hands  free  for  shopping 
while  the  handbag  hangs  by  the  side. 
This  leaves  a  person  free  from  the 
worry  of  taking  care  that  the  bag  is 


not  laid  down  somewhere  and  lost. 
The  bag  may  be  easily  opened  by  un- 
winding the  chain  after  loosening  it  by 
raising  the  bag  slightly. — Contributed 
by  Wm.  Waterhouse,  Aurora,  111. 


An  Emery-Cloth  Holder 

Emery  cloth  in  sheets  is  very  easily 
spoiled  around  a  workbench.  Oil  or 
other  fluids  used  on  work  are  apt  to 
drop  on  it  and  when  wet  for  a  short 
time  the  abrasive  is  useless.  The  il- 
lustration shows  a  tin  holder,  A,  that 
can  be  placed  on  the  under  side  of  the 


A  Receptacle  for  Emery  Cloth  Made  of  Sheet  Metal 
or  Tin  and  Fastened  to  a  Bench 

bench  where  space  is  not  required  for 
drawer  room. 

The  portion  cut  out  of  the  bottom 


387 


of  the  holder  B  is  to  enable  the  work- 
man to  easily  grasp  the  sheets  of  em- 
ery cloth.  As  the  holder  is  on  the 
under  side  of  the  bench,  there  is  little 
danger  of  any  liquid  or  other  sub- 
stance spoiling  the  sheets.  The  sheets 
are  also  within  easy  reach. — Contrib- 
uted by  F.  W.  Bently,  Huron,  S.  D. 

The  Operation  of  the  Compass 

After  trying  to  tell  a  few  small  boys 
what  a  compass  is,  they  wanted  a 
practical  illustration — something  they 
could  see.  Not  having  a  compass  or 
knowing  where  to  locate  one  handily, 
I  used  a  piece  of  cork  with  needles  and 
a  needle  for  a  pivot  and  found  it  very 
satisfactory.  The  method  used  is 
shown  in  the  sketch. 

It  is  best  not  to  magnetize  both 
needles  unless  care  is  exercised  in 
maintaining  pole  relationship,  or  they 
will  oppose  each  other  and  not  point 
to  the  north.  The  extreme  ends  or  the 
heads  of  the  needles  must  be  opposites, 
the  head  of  one  negative  and  the  head 
of  the  other  positive. 

If  a  good  compass  is  brought  care- 


Two  Large  Needles  in  a  Cork  Balanced  on  a  Central 
Needle  to  Make  Them  Revolve  Easily 

lessly  in  contact  with  a  magnet,  the 
poles  may  become  reversed  and  the 
north  end  will  no  longer  point  to  the 
north  but  to  the  south  until  the  cur- 
rent has  been  reversed  again  by  bring- 
ing the  opposite  pole  of  the  magnet  in 
contact  with  the  compass. — Contrib- 
uted by  W.  H.  Albright,  Bellevue,  O. 


Thawing  Out  Frozen  Pipes 

When  the  water  pipes  connecting  a 
range  boiler  become  frozen,  get  a 
plumber  and  avoid  an  explosion  of  the 
water  back.  If,  however,  the  frozen 
pipe  is  a  cold-water  pipe  in  no  way 
connected  with  the  hot-water  boiler,  it 
can  be  thawed  out  as  follows: 

Procure  some  grain  alcohol — not  de- 


natured or  wood  alcohol — and  after 
turning  the  spigot  upward  or  upside 
down,  as  shown,  open  it  and  pour  in 


The  Faucet  is 
Turned  Upwards 
and  Opened  and 
Alcohol  Poured 
In     on     the     Ice 


the  alcohol.  When  the  water  begins 
to  flow  turn  it  to  its  proper  position. — 
Contributed  by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


A  Wire  Clothespin 

The  pin  is  made  of  galvanized  wire, 
A,  8  or  10  in.  long,  wound  spirally,  B, 
on  a  round  sur- 
face, such  as  a 
broom  handle, 
to  make  the 
holding  part. 
The  ends  are 
fastened  to- 
gether as  shown. 
The  space  be- 
tween the  spiral 
turns  makes  the  cloth-holding  part. — ■ 
Contributed  by  Wesley  H.  Freeman, 
Palestine,  Tex. 


Vent  for  Pouring  Heavy  Liquids 

A  tube  placed  in  a  jug  or  bottle  as 
shown  in  the  sketch  will  assist  greatly 
in  removing  molasses  or  heavy  liquids. 
The  tube  can  be  placed  in  the  recep- 
tacle without  getting  the  liquid  inside 
by  holding  a  finger  over  the  outer  end. 


The  Vacuum  Caused  by   the  Flow  of  Heavy  Liquids 
is  Easily  Overcome  by  the  Air  Tube 

The  air  can  easily  enter  without  dis- 
turoing  the  flow  of  the  liquid. — Con- 
tributed by  Homer  Payear,  Owens- 
boro,  Ky. 


388 


A  Hat  Hanger 

Procure  a  piece  of  %-in.  wire,  about 
3  ft.  long,  bend 
it  into  the  shape 
shown  in  the 
sketch,  and 
sharpen  the  pro- 
jecting end. 
Drive  this  into 
the  wall  above 
a  coat  hanger. 
This  provides  *a 
l)etter  hat  hanger 
than  the  ordi- 
nary h  o  o  k. — 
Contributed  b  y 
John  D.  Watt, 
Roxbury,    Mass. 


Repairing  a  Broken  Tenon  on  a 
Chair  Post 

Instead  of  cutting  off  the  four  posts 
to  make  new  tenons  where  one  tenon 
was  broken  I  used  a  metal  piece  made 
from  a  short 
length  of  bicycle 
tubing,  as 
shown.  The  tul^e 
was  slotted  two 
ways  to  make 
four  parts  which  were  turned  out  and 
flattened.  The  remaining  end  of  the 
tulie  was  slipped  over  the  broken  post 
and  the  four  parts  were  fastened  with 
screws  to  the  under  side  of  the  chair 
seat. — Contributed  by  Chas.  H.  Rob- 
erts, Calumet,  Mich. 


Substitute  for  an  Iron-Holder  Knob 

The  wood 
knob  on  the 
holder  for  ni}' 
irons  Ijecame 
charred  from  the 
heat  and  finally 
broke  away 
from  the  pin. 
The  pin  would 
get  so  hot  in 
continued  u  s  e 
that  it  could  not  be  moved  without 
burning   my   fingers.     I   remedied   the 


difficulty  by  attaching  a  short  string 
to  the  handle  and  the  pin.  A  pull  on 
the  string  with  the  forefinger  readily 
released  the  iron.  I  have  found  this 
better  than  the  knob,  as  it  is  handier 
to  use. — Contributed  by  Mrs.  H.  C. 
Dixon,  Johnstown,  Pa. 


An  Egg-Frying  Pan 

The  frying  of  eggs  in  an  ordinary 
frying  pan  is  accompanied  with  some 
difficulty  in  removing  them  when  they 
are  cooked  without  breaking  the  yolk. 
Then,  sometimes,  the  pan  is  too  hot 
and  the  egg  sticks  to  the  pan  and  the 
top  remains  uncooked.  A  much  better 
way  is  to  shape  a  piece  of  sheet  metal 
or  tin  as  shown  in  the  sketch  to  place 


A  Metal  Plate  for  Use  in  an  Ordinary  Frying  Pan 
to  Cook  Eggs  without  Scorching  Them 

the  egg  in  and  use  it  in  the  ordinary 
pan.  It  will  not  burn  the  egg,  and  the 
egg:  can  be  lifted  out  of  the  pan  and 
easily  slipped  on  a  plate  or  toast  when 
it  is  cooked. — Contributed  by  W.  A. 
Jaquythe,  San   Diego,  Cal. 


A   Sander  Mandrel  for  the  Lathe 

A  cylindrical  sander  for  use  in  the 
lathe  can  be  easily  made  of  two  pieces 
of  wood,  turned  to  a  diameter  that  will 
take  the  stock  size  of  sandpaper,  and 
clamped  together  with  pinch  dogs  at 
the  ends.     One  edge  of  the  sandpaper 


■c 


—  14- 


A  Wood  Mandrel  for  Attaching  Regular  Sheets  of 
Sandpaper  to  Make  a  Lathe  Sander 

is  clamped  between  the  pieces  and  then 
it  is  wrapped  around  the  wood,  the  op- 
posite edge  being  glued  to  the  start- 
ing edge,  as  shown  at  A.  The  dimen- 
sions given  are  for  a  9  by  18-in.  sheet 
of  sandpaper.  The  sander  is  easily 
placed  in  the  lathe  centers  when 
needed,  and  the  sandpaper  may  be  re- 
placed at  any  time. — Contributed  by 
James  T.  Gaftney,  Chicago. 


389 


How  to  Construct  a  Simple  Galvanometer 


A  galvanometer  is  an  instrument 
used  to  detect  the  presence  of  an  elec- 
trical current  in  a  circuit  or  to  meas- 
ure the  value  of  the  current  in  am- 
peres. The  operation  of  practically  all 
galvanometers  is  based  upon  the  same 
principle,  and  they  differ  chiefly  in 
mechanical  construction  and  the  rela- 
tive arrangement  of  their  different 
parts. 

A  very  simple  galvanometer,  that 
will  give  quite  satisfactory  results,  un- 
der favorable  conditions,  may  be  con- 
structed as  follows:  Turn  from  a  piece 
of  hard  wood  a  ring  having  dimen- 
sions corresponding  to  those  given  in 
the  cross  section,  Fig.  1.  Fill  the 
groove  in  this  ring  to  within  Vs  in.  of 
the  top  with  No.  18  gauge  double-cot- 
ton-covered copper  wire,  insulating  the 
different  layers  from  each  other  by 
means  of  a  layer  of  good  bond  paper. 
The  winding  may  be  started  by  drill- 
ing a  small  hole  through  the  side  of 
the  groove,  as  close  to  the  bottom  as 
possible,  and  allowing  about  6  in.  of 
the  wire  to  protrude  through  it.  The 
outside  end  may  be  terminated  in  a 
similar  manner,  and  the  two  ends 
should  be  on  the  same  side  of  the  ring, 
or  as  near  each  other  as  possible.  A 
protecting  covering  of  bookbinder's 
paper  is  placed  over  the  winding  and 
the  completed  ring  given  a  coat  of 
shellac.  The  electric  current  to  be  de- 
tected or  measured  is  to  pass  around 
the  winding  of  this  coil  and  produce  an 
effect  upon  a  compass  needle  mounted 
in  its  center.  In  order  that  the  cur- 
rent may  produce  a  maximum  effect 
upon  the  needle,  the  coil  should  be 
mounted  in  a  vertical  position. 

The  base  upon  which  the  ring  is 
to  be  mounted  may  be  cut  from  some 
i/2-in.  hard  wood.  It  should  be  cir- 
cular in  form  and  about  5  in.  in  diam- 
eter, and  have  its  upper  edge  rounded 
off  and  shellacked  to  improve  its  ap- 
pearance. The  ring  is  mounted  in  a 
vertical  position  on  this  base,  which 
may  be  done  as  follows:  Cut  a  flat 
surface  on  each  of  the  flanges  of  the 


ring  so  that  it  will  stand  in  a  vertical 
position  and  the  terminals  of  the  wind- 
ing will  be  as  near  as  possible  to  the 


J 

-l«l 

1 

-i 

J. 

" 

lO 

.v.}/ 

, 

■ 

8 

^        -Is 

* 

n 

%). 

Fis.2 


The  'Wood  Ring  for  the  Coil 

and   Its  Holding 
Stirrup 


Fie.  I 


surface  upon  which 
the  ring  rests. 
Then  form  a  stir- 
rup from  some  thin 
sheet  brass,  similar 
to  that  shown  in 
Fig.  2,  so  that  it  will  fit  tightly  over 
the  ring  and  its  outwardly  projecting 
ends  will  rest  upon  the  base  of  the 
instrument.  Small  wood  screws  are 
used  in  fastening  the  stirrup  to  the 
base.  The  fastening  may  be  made 
more  secure  by  cutting  a  groove  across 
the  inside  of  the  ring  for  the  stirrup 
to  fit  in.  Fig.  3,  thus  preventing  the 
possibility  of  the  ring  moving  through 
the  stirrup.  Two  holes  should  be 
drilled  in  the  base  for  the  terminals  of 
the  winding  to  pass  through,  and  it 
would  be  best  to  cut  two  grooves  in 
the  side  of  the  ring  for  these  wires  so 
as  to  prevent  their  coming  into  con- 
tact with  the  metal  stirrup.  Two  back- 
connected  binding  posts,  A  and  B,  Fig. 
3,  are  mounted  on  the  base  and  the 
ends  of  the  winding  attached  to  them. 
The  wires  should  be  placed  in  grooves 
cut  in  the  under  side  of  the  base,  and 
the  screws  used  in  fastening  the  bind- 
ing posts  should  be  countersunk. 

A  short  compass  needle  is  then 
mounted  on  a  suitable  supporting  pivot 
in  the  center  of  the  coil.  This  com- 
pass needle  will  always  come  to  rest 
in  an  approximate  north  and  south 
position  when  it  is  acted  upon  by  the 
earth's  magnetic  field  alone.  If  now 
the  plane  of  the  coil  be  placed  in  such 
a  position  that  it  is  parallel  to  the  di- 


300 


rection  of  the  compass  needle  (no  cur- 
rent in  the  coil),  the  magnetic  field  that 
will  he  produced  when  a  current  is  sent 
through  the  winding  will  be  perpendic- 


Galvanometer 
as  It   is 
Used  to 
Detect  the 
Presence 
of  an 
Electrical 
Current 


ular  to  the  magnetic  field  of  the  earth 
and  there  will  be  a  force,  due  to  this 
particular  current,  tending  to  turn  the 
compass  needle  around  perpendicularly 
lo  its  original  position.  There  will  be 
a  deflection  of  the  needle  for  all  values 
of  current  in  the  coil,  and  this  deflec- 
tion will  vary  in  value  as  the  current 
in  the  coil  varies.  The  mere  fact  that 
the  compass  needle  is  deflected  due  to 
a  current  in  the  coil  gives  a  means  of 
detecting  a  current  in  any  circuit  of 
which  the  coil  is  a  part,  and  the  de- 
gree of  this  deflection  affords  a  means 
of  measuring  the  current,  the  value  of 
the  difi'erent  deflections  in  terms  of 
the  current  in  the  coil  having  been  ex- 
perimentally determined  by  sending  a 
known  current  through  the  coil  and 
noting  the  positions  of  the  compass 
needle  for  each  value  of  current  used. 

In  order  to  determine  the  deflection 
of  the  needle,  a  scale,  C,  Fig.  .3,  must 
be  mounted  directly  under  the  com- 
pass needle  and  a  pointer,  D,  attached 
to  the  compass  needle  so  that  any 
movement  of  the  needle  results  in  an 
equal  angular  displacement  of  the 
pointer.  The  compass  needle,  E, 
should  be  short  and  quite  heavy,  say, 
%  in.  in  length,  ^j.  in.  in  thickness  and 
1/4  in.  in  width  at  its  center,  and  taper- 
ing to  a  point  at  its  ends.  It  should 
be  made  of  a  good  grade  of  steel,  tem- 


pered and  then  magnetized  by  means 
of  a  powerful  electromagnet.  The 
reason  for  making  the  compass  needle 
short  is  that  it  will  then  operate  in 
practically  a  uniform  magnetic  field, 
which  exists  only  at  the  center  of  the 
coil.  On  account  of  the  needle  being 
so  short  and  in  view  of  the  fact  that 
it  comes  to  rest  parallel  to  the  coil  for 
its  zero  position,  it  is  best  to  use  a 
pointer  attached  to  the  needle  to  deter- 
mine its  deflection,  as  this  pointer  can 
be  made  much  longer  than  the  needle, 
and  any  movement  of  the  needle  may 
be  more  easily  detected,  as  the  end  of 
the  pointer  moves  through  a  much 
larger  distance  than  the  end  of  the 
needle,  and  since  it  may  be  attached  to 
the  needle,  at  right  angles  to  the 
needle's  axis,  the  end  of  the  pointer 
will  be  ofT  to  one  side  of  the  coil  and 
its  movement  may  be  easily  observed. 
The  pointer  should  be  made  of  some 
nonmagnetic  material,  such  as  alumi- 
num or  brass,  and  it  should  be  as  long 
.'!.'-  it  may  be  conveniently  made.  A 
suitable  box  with  a  glass  cover  may  be 
provided  in  which  the  needle,  pointer 
and  scale  may  be  housed.  The  con- 
struction of  this  box  will  be  left  en- 
tirely to  the  ingenuity  of  the  one  mak- 
ing the  instrument. 

In  order  to  use  this  instrument  as 
an  ammeter,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
calibrate  it,  which  consists  in  deter- 
mining the  position  of  the  pointer  for 
various  values  of  current  throusjh  the 


GALVANOMETER 


VVV^AAA/V\^AAA^^ 
VARIABLE   RESISTANCE 


^h 


The  Electric  Circuit,  Showing  Connections  for  Finding 
the  Value  of  a  Current  in  Calibrating 

coil.  It  will  be  necessary  to  obtain 
the  use  of  a  direct-current  ammeter  for 
this  purpose.  The  winding  of  the  gal- 
vanometer, ammeter,  battery  and  a 
variable  resistance  of  some  kind  should 


891 


all  be  connected  in  series  as  shown  in 
the  diagram,  Fig.  4.  Allow  the  com- 
pass needle  to  come  to  rest  under  the 
influence  of  the  earth's  magnetic  field 
and  then  turn  the  coil  into  such  a  posi- 
tion that  it  is  as  nearly  parallel  with 
the  needle  as  possible.  This  corre- 
sponds to  the  zero  position,  and  the 
instrument  must  always  be  in  this  posi- 
tion when  it  is  used.  The  position  of 
the  ends  of  the  pointer  is  now  marked 
on  the  scale  for  different  values  of  cur- 
rent, first  with  the  current  in  one  di- 
rection and  then  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion. The  deflection  of  the  needle  will, 
of  course,  reverse  when  the  current  is 
reversed. 

The  effect  produced  by  any  current 
upon  the  compass  needle  can  be 
changed  by  changing  the  number  of 
turns  in  the  coil.  In  measuring  a  large 
current,  a  few  turns  of  large  wire 
would  be  required,  and  in  measuring 
a  small  current,  a  large  number  of 
turns  of  small  wire  could  be  used.  In 
other  words,  the  size  of  the  wire  will 
depend  upon  the  current  it  is  to  carry 
and  the  number  of  turns  in  the  coil  will 
depend  upon  the  magnetic  effect  the 
current  is  to  produce,  which  is  propor- 
tional to  the  product  of  the  number  of 
turns  and  the  current,  called  the  am- 
pere-turns. 


Experiments  with  Camphor 

Place  a  few  scrapings  from  gum 
camphor  in  a  tumbler  of  water  and 
watch  the  phenomenon.  The  scrap- 
ings will  go  through  all  kinds  of  rapid 
motions  as  if  they  were  alive.  A  drop 
of  turpentine,  or  any  oil,  will  stop  their 
maneuvers.  This  experiment  will 
show  how  quickly  oil  spreads  over  the 
surface  of  water. 


Boiling  Cracked  Eggs 

Eggs  with  the  shells  cracked  can  be 
boiled  in  the  ordinary  manner  without 
danger  of  the  white  boiling  out,  if  they 
are  first  wrapped  in  tissue  paper.  As 
soon  as  the  paper  becomes  wet  it  will 
cling  so  tightly  to  the  shell  that  the 
cracks  are  effectively  closed. 


A  Trousers  Hanger 

A  very  serviceable  hanger  can  be 
easily  made  of  two  clothespins  of  the 
clip  type  and  about  2  ft.  of  large  wire. 


I     ! 


^-  '     ^^      I'fl 


Clothesline    Clips   Joined    Together    with    a    Wire 
and    Used    as    a    Trousers   Hanger 

The  wire  should  be  bent  into  the 
shape  shown  at  A  with  a  loop  about 
1  in.  in  diameter  as  a  hanger.  The 
ends  of  the  wire  are  slipped  under 
the  hooks  on  the  sides  of  the  clothes- 
pins, which  are  fastened  to  the  trous- 
ers as  shown  in  B. — Contributed  by 
Olaf  Tronnes,   Evanston,   111. 


Removing    Tight-Fitting    Can    Covers 

Tight-fitting  covers  on  lard  and  sim- 
ilar pails  can   be   readily   removed  by 
tying  a   stout  cord  loosely  below   the 
cover,      then 
placing   an   ordi- 
nary   nail    under 
the     cord     and 
twisting  it.    This 
will    tighten    the 
cord  around  the 
can    evenly, 
which  will  loosen  the  cover. 


A   Skimming   Spoon 

A  handy  skimming  spoon  can  be 
made  very  quickly  of  an  ordinary 
spoon  of  any  size  desired.  Slits  are 
sawn   across  the  bowl   in  the   manner 


The  Straight  Cuts  Sawn  Across 
the  Bottom    of  the    Bowl    Provide 
Openings  to    Drain   Out   the   Liquid 


shown,  using  a  hacksaw.  The  illus- 
tration is  self-explanatory. — Contrib- 
uted by  G.  H.  Holter,  Jasper,  Minn. 


393 


How  to  Make  Falling  Blocks 

Procure  a  thin  board  large  enough 
to  cut  six  blocks.  2  in.  wide  and  3  in. 
long;  also  2  yd.  of  cotton  tape,  ^4  in- 


3: 


:e 


^ 


Set  of  Blocks  Joined  with  Tape  So  That 
They  Appear   to  Fall  from  the  Top 

wide,  and  some  very  small 
tacks.  Cut  the  board  into 
pieces  of  the  size  mentioned, 
and  number  two  of  them  on 
both  surfaces,  1,  2,  3,  and 
4.  Cut  ofif  three  pieces  of  tape,  4%  in. 
long,  and  on  the  side  of  block  1  tack 
one  piece  of  tape  in  the  center  at  one 
end,  and  the  other  two  pieces  at 
each  edge  on  the  opposite  end, 
all  being  on  one  side  of  the  block 
as  shown.  Take  the  other  block  and 
lay  the  side  numbered  4  up,  then  draw 
the  two  strips  of  tape  on  the  edges  of 
block  1  under  it  and  back  to  the  end 
of  the  surface  on  block  4,  and  tack  them 
on  this  surface  at  the  edges  as  shown. 
The  center  tape  is  passed  under  block 
4  and  turned  over  the  opposite  end  and 
tacked.  This  is  clearly  shown  in  the 
sketch.  Thus  the  second  block  will 
hang  from  either  end  of  block  1  by 
simply  folding  them  together  and  sep- 
arating the  ends. 

Mark  the  sides  of  the  third  block  5 
and  (),  and  place  it  with  the  two  others 
so  that  the  sides  numbered  3,  3,  and  5 
will  be  up.  Cut  off  three  more  pieces 
of  tape,  4%  in.,  long,  and  tack  them 
on  as  shown,  being  careful  not  to  tack 
through  any  of  the  first  three  pieces. 
Put  on  the  fourth  block  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  third  block  was  attached 
to  the  second,  and  so  on,  until  all  the 
blocks  are  attached. 

Take  hold  of  the  first  block  on  the 
edges  and  tip  it  as  shown  by  the  arrow. 
The  second  block  will  then  fall  as 
shown  by  the  second  arrow,  and  the 
third  block  falls  away  in  the  same  man- 


ner, and  so  on,  down  to  the  end. — Con- 
tributed by  Wayne  Nutting,  Minne- 
apolis, Minn. 


Writing  Name  Reversed  on  Paper 
Placed  on   Forehead 

The  following  is  an  entertaining  ex- 
periment in  a  party  of  young  people. 
One  of  those  present  is  asked  if  he  can 
write  his  name,  and  will,  of  course, 
answer  "yes."  He  is  then  subjected  to 
the  following  test:  He  is  asked  to  sit 
down  in  a  chair,  a  paper,  folded  several 
times,  is  placed  on  his  forehead,  a  lead 
pencil  is  handed  him  and  he  is  asked  to 
write  his  name  on  the  paper.  As  little 
time  as  possible  to  reflect  should  be  left 
him  ;  if  he  hesitates,  he  should  be  told 
to  just  go  ahead,  and  in  most  cases  it 
will  be  found  that  he  starts  writing 
his  name  at  the  left  temple  and,  to  the 
amusement  of  the  others  present, 
writes  it  in  the  way  of  many  left- 
handed  persons,  that  is,  so  that  it  is 
legilile  only  when  held  in  front  of  a 
mirror,  unless  one  is  practiced  in  read- 
ing reversed  writing. 


Use  for  an  Old  Table 

An  old  table  of  the  extension  type, 
that  may  have  a  post  broken,  can  be 
used  against  the  wall  in  a  kitchen  as  a 
work  table.  If  there  is  a  damaged  part, 
that  side  is  removed  by  sawing  the 
crosspieces  of  the  table  in  two  and  at- 
taching it  to  the  wall  against  the  leaf 


One  Half  of  the  Table 

is  Removed  and  the 

Remaining  Part  Fastened 

to  the  Wall 

which  is  turned  in  a  reverse  position. 
— Contributed  by  A.  S.  Thomas,  Gor- 
don, Can. 


393 


How  to   Make  a  Small   Rheostat 


In  operating  small  motors  there  is  as 
a  rule  no  means  provided  for  regulat- 
ing their  speed,  and  this  often  is  quite 
a  disadvantage,  especially  in  the  case 
of  toy  motors  such  as  used  on  minia- 
ture electric  locomotives.  The  speed, 
of  course,  can  be  regulated  by  chang- 
ing the  number  of  cells  of  battery  by 
means  of  a  special  switch,  but  then  all 
the  cells  are  not  used  the  same  amount 
and  some  of  them  may  be  completely 
exhausted  before  the  others  show  any 
appreciable  depreciation.  If  a  small 
transformer  is  used  with  a  number  of 
taps  taken  ofif  the  secondary  winding, 
the  voltage  impressed  upon  the  motor, 
and  consequently  the  speed,  can  be 
changed  by  varying  the  amount  of  the 
secondary  winding  across  which  the 
motor   is   connected. 

But  in  both  these  cases  there  is  no 
means  of  varying  the  speed  gradually. 
This  can,  however,  be  accomplished  by 
means  of  a  small  rheostat  placed  in 
series  with  the  motor.  The  rheostat 
acts  in  an  electrical  circuit  in  just  the 
same  way  a  valve  does  in  a  hydraulic 
circuit.  It  consists  of  a  resistance, 
which  can  be  easily  varied  in  value, 
placed  in  the  circuit  connecting  the 
motor  with  the  source  of  electrical 
energy.  A  diagram  of  the  rheostat  is 
shown  in  Fig.  1,  in  which  A  represents 
the  armature  of  the  motor ;  B,  the  field  ; 
C,  the  rheostat,  and  D,  the  source  of 
electrical  energy.  When  the  handle 
E  is  in  such  a  position  that  the  max- 


L0-^>^\X/  \_J 


Diagram  Showing  the  Connections  for  a  Small 
Motor  Where  a  Rheostat  Is  in  the  Line 

imum  amount  of  resistance  is  in  cir- 
cuit there  will  be  a  minimum  circuit 
through  the  field  and  armature  of  the 
motor,  and  its  speed  will  be  a  mini- 
mum. As  the  resistance  of  the  rheo- 
stat is  decreased,  the  current  increases 


and  the  motor  speeds  up,  reaching  a 
maximum  value  when  the  resistance  of 
the  rheostat  has  been  reduced  to  zero 
value.  Such  a  rheostat  may  be  used 
in   combination   with   a   special   switch 


Pio.S 

Diagram  of  a  Small  Motor  Where  a  Rheostat  and 
Switch  Are  in  the  Line 

F.,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  switch 
gives  a  means  of  varying  the  voltage 
and  the  rheostat  takes  care  of  the  de- 
sired changes  in  speed  occurring  be- 
tween those  produced  by  the  varia- 
tions in  voltage. 

A  very  simple  and  inexpensive  rheo- 
stat may  be  constructed  as  follows: 
Procure  a  piece  of  thin  fiber,  about  ^V 
in.  thick,  1/4  in.  wide  and  approximately 
10  in.  long.  Wind  on  this  piece  of 
fiber,  after  the  edges  have  all  been 
smoothed  down,  a  piece  of  No.  22 
gauge  cotton-covered  resistance  wire, 
starting  about  Y^  in.  from  one  end  and 
winding  the  various  turns  fairly  close 
together  to  within  1/4  in.  of  the  other 
end.  The  ends  of  the  wire  may  be 
secured  by  passing  them  through  sev- 
eral small  holes  drilled  in  the  piece  of 
fiber,  and  should  protrude  3  or  4  in.  for 
connecting  to  binding  posts  that  will 
be  mounted  upon  the  base  of  the  rheo- 
stat. I 

Now  form  this  piece  of  fiber  into  a 
complete  ring  by  bending  it  around 
some  round  object,  the  flat  side  being 
toward  the  object.  Determine  as  ac- 
curately as  possible  the  diameter  of 
the  ring  thus  formed  and  also  its  thick- 
ness. Obtain  a  piece  of  well  seasoned 
hard  wood,  i/o  in.  thick  and  4i/i;  in. 
square.  Round  ofif  the  corners  and 
upper  edges  of  this  block  and  mark 
out  on  it  two  circles  whose  diameters 
correspond  to  the  inside  and  outside 
diameters  of  the  fiber  ring.  The  cen- 
ters of  these  circles  should  be  in  the 


394 


center  of  the  block.  Carefully  saw  out 
the  two  circles  so  that  the  space  be- 
tween the  inside  and  outside  portions 
will  just  accommodate  the  fiber  ring. 
Obtain   a  second  piece  of  hard  wood, 


SLiSJ^ 


FcG.3 
A  Cross  Section  of  the  Rheostat,  Showing  the 
Connections  through  the  Resistance 

1/4  in.  thick  and  4%  i"-  square,  round 
off  its  corners  and  upper  edges  and 
mount  the  other  pieces  upon  it  by 
means  of  several  small  wood  screws, 
which  should  pass  up  from  the  under 
side  and  be  well  countersunk.  Place 
the  fiber  ring  in  the  groove,  but,  before 
doing  so,  drill  a  hole  in  the  base  proper 
for  one  end  of  the  wire  to  pass  through. 
Two  small  back-connected  binding 
posts  should  be  mounted  in  the  cor- 
ners. One  of  these  should  lie  con- 
nected to  the  end  of  the  winding  and 
the  other  to  a  small  bolt  in  the  center 
of  the  base  that  serves  to  hold  the  han- 
dle or  movable  arm  of  the  rheostat  in 
place.  These  connecting  leads  should 
all  be  placed  in  grooves  cut  in  the 
under  side  of  the  base. 

The  movable  arm  of  the  rheostat 
may  be  made  from  a  piece  of  ic-in. 
sheet  brass,  and  should  have  the 
following  approximate  dimensions : 
length,  2  in.;  breadth  lA  in.  at  one  end, 
and  1/4  in.  at  the  other.  Obtain  a  Vs-in. 
brass  bolt,  about  1  in.  long,  also  several 
washers.  Drill  a  hole  in  the  larger  end 
of  the  piece  of  brass  to  accommodate 
the  bolt  and  also  in  the  center  of  the 
wooden  base.  Countersink  the  hole  in 
the  base  on  the  under  side  with  a  i/i>-in. 
bit  to  a  depth  of  14  '"•  On  the  under 
side  of  the  piece  of  brass,  and  near  its 
narrow  end,  solder  a  piece  of  thin 
spring  brass  so  that  its  free  end  will 
rest  upon  the  upper  edge  of  the  fiber 
ring.  A  small  handle  may  be  mounted 
upon  the  upper  side  of  the  movable 
arm.  Now  mount  the  arm  on  the  base 
by  means  of  the  bolt,  placing  several 
washers  between  it  and  the  upper 
surface  of  the  base,  so  that  its  outer 


end  will  be  raised  above  the  edge 
of  the  fiber  ring.  Solder  a  short  piece 
of  thin  brass  to  the  nut  that  is  to 
be  placed  on  the  lower  end  of  the 
bolt,  and  cut  a  recess  in  the  counter- 
sunk portion  of  the  hole  in  the  base  to 
accommodate  it.  When  the  bolt  has 
been  screwed  down  sufficiently  tight 
a  locknut  may  be  put  on,  or  the  first 
nut  soldered  to  the  end  of  the  bolt. 
If  possible,  it  would  be  best  to  use  a 
spring  washer,  or  two,  between  the 
arm  and  base. 

The  insulation  should  now  be  re- 
moved from  the  wire  on  the  upper 
edge  of  the  fiber  ring  with  a  piece  of 
fine  sandpaper,  so  that  the  spring  on 
the  under  side  of  the  moval)le  arm 
may  make  contact  with  the  winding. 
The  rheostat  is  now  complete  with  the 
exception  of  a  coat  of  shellac.  A  cross- 
sectional  view  of  the  completed  rheo- 
stat is  shown  in  Fig.  3. 


Folding  Arms  for  Clothesline  Posts 

The  inconvenience  of  using  a  num- 
ber of  clothesline  posts  and  the  limited 
space  available  resulted  in  the  making 
of  a  clothesline  post  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  The  entire  line  is  supported 
on  two  posts,  which  should  be  about 
Ci  in.  square  and  are  set  in  concrete. 
The  upper  ends  of  the  posts  are 
equipped  with  two  arms,  hinged  to  the 
.sides  of  the  posts  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  inside  ends  of  the  arms  will  meet  on 


A  Post  That  Provides 
a  Way  to  Hold  Six 
Lines  Taut  without 
the  Use  of  Props 


top  of  the  post  when  they  are  in  a 
horizontal  position.  Each  arm  is  pro- 
vided with  three  wood  pins,  equally 
spaced  for  the  line.  The  arms  are  sup- 
ported in  a  horizontal  position  by  two 
bars  of  metal  at  the  center,  as  shown 


395 


Holes  are  bored  into  the  sides  of  the 
posts  to  receive  the  pins  when  the  arms 
are  at  rest. 

A  small  box  is  fastened  to  one  post, 
to  provide  a  place  for  the  clothesline 
and  the  clothespins.  The  line,  when 
put  up,  gives  space  for  an  entire  wash- 
ing without  the  use  of  a  prop,  as  the 
line  can  be  drawn  taut  enough  to  hold 
the  garments. — Contributed  by  Olaf 
Tronnes,  Evanston,  111. 


A  Folding  Bookrack 

Having  need  of  a  bookrack  which  I 
could  pack  away  in  my  trunk  and  still 
have  room  for  my  clothes,  I  made  one 
as  follows:  I  procured  a  piece  of  pine, 
%  in.  thick,  G  in.  wide  and  18  in.  long, 
and  laid  out  the  plan  on  one  side.  Holes 
were  drilled  in  the  edges,  %  in.  from 
the  ends,  to  receive  li/i-in.  round-head 
brass  screws.  The  design  for  the  ends 
was  sawn  out  with  a  scroll  saw  and 
the  edges  smoothed  up  with  fine  sand- 


paper, whereupon  the  surfaces  were 
stained  and  given  a  coat  of  wax.  The 
screws  were  put  in  place  to  make  the 
ends  turn  on  them  as  on  a  bearing. 
In  use  the  ends  were  turned  up. — Con- 
tributed by  Spencer  Hall,  Baltimore, 
Maryland. 


A  Simple  Balance 

Having  use  for  a  balance  in  a  labora- 
tory and  being  unable  to  procure  any 
scales  at  the  time,  I  hastily  rigged  up 
a  device  that  served  the  purpose  as 
well,  as  the  work  did  not  require  very 
great  precision.  An  elastic  band  and  a 
short  piece  of  string  was  procured  and 
the  band  cut  open.  The  string  was 
then  fastened  around  the  beaker  as 
shown,  and  the  whole  suspended  from 
a  shelf. 


Into  the  beaker  was  then  poured  100 
cubic  centimeters  of  water  and  the 
stretch  of  the  elastic  band  noted  by  the 


C 


A  Graduate  Scale 
Used  in    Connection 
with  an  Elastic  Band 

to  Make 
a  Simple  Balance 


LI 


displacement  of  a  knot  in  the  string  in 
respect  to  the  scale  on  a  graduate, 
placed  beside  the  beaker.  The  length 
of  the  elastic  was  then  changed  until 
the  knot  was  exactly  opposite  the  100- 
division  mark  on  the  graduate  scale. 
Then,  since  the  elongation  of  the  elas- 
tic band  follows  Hook's  law,  the  ex- 
tension of  the  band  to  the  amount  of 
one  scale  division  means  an  added 
weight  of  one  gram  in  the  beaker. — 
Contributed  by  L.  Horle,  Newark, 
New  Jersey. 


An  Ink  Eraser 

A  good  knife  eraser  for  ink  can  be 
made  from  a  discarded  or  broken  rul- 
ing pen.  One  of  the  parts,  or  nibs,  is 
cut  off  close  to  the  handle  and  the 
remaining  one  sharpened  on  both  edges 
at  the  point.  This  instrument  is  better 
than  a  knife  or  the  regular  scratcher, 
because  the  cutting  edge  will  shave  the 
surface  of  the  paper  or  tracing  cloth 
and  not  roughen  or  cut  it.  Erasing 
done  with  this  knife  will  readily  take 


One  of  the  Nibs  on  the  Ruling  Pen  Sharpened 
and  Used  as  an  Eraser 

ink  without  further  preparation  of  the 
surface. — Contributed  by  Warren  E. 
Crane,  Cleveland,  O. 


306 


( 


Gate  Fasteners 

Buttons  on  gates  or  small  doors  are 
apt   to   become   loose   and   then    drop 
^    ^  down,  thereby  al- 

lowing the  gate 
or  door  to  be- 
come unfastened. 
The  ordinary 
button  is  shown 
at  A  where  it  is 
loose  and  turned 
by  its  own  weight.  If  the  button  is  cut 
as  shown  at  B,  it  will  remain  fastened, 
even  if  it  is  loose  on  the  screw  or  nail. 
— Contributed  by  A.  S.  Thomas,  Am- 
herstburg,  Ont. 


A  Compensating  Siphon 

The  homemade  siphon  shown  in  the 
sketch  consists  of  two  rubber  corks 
and  a  glass  tube  with  a  rubber  hose 
connected  to  it.  The  cork  A  is  used 
as  a  bearing  and  support  on  the  edge 
of  the  tank.  The  position  of  the  cork 
B  on  the  tube  determines  the  distance 
that  the  mouth  of  the  tube  will  be  un- 
der the  surface  of  the  liquid,  also  to 
some  extent  the  sensitiveness  of  the 
apparatus.  However,  the  principle  of 
the  device  is  the  buoyant  effect  of  the 


The  End  of  the  Pipe  is  Kept  Just  under  the  Surface 
of  the  Liquid  at  all  Times 

water  and  the  lever  action  of  the  ruli- 
ber  tube  which  is  attached. 

The  one  that  I  made  had  a  tube  14 
in.  long,  and  the  cork  B  was  1^/^  in. 
in  diameter,  1  in.  thick,  and  weighed 
about  '/ii  of  a  pound.  The  practical 
application  of  this  siphon  will  be  found 
in  sieve  tests  where  it  is  necessary  to 
collect  the  residue  on  the  bottom  of 
the  tank  while  drawing  off  the  liquid 
at  the  surface,  also  in  oil-storage  tanks 
where  it  is  not  wished  to  disturb  the 
dirt  or  other  residue  which  collects  on 
the  bottom  of  the  tank. — Contributed 
by  James  Hemphill,  Jr.,  Duquesne, 
Pennsylvania. 


A  Polarity  Indicator 

Lines  in  a  cable  or  the  ends  of  con- 
nections at  a  distance  from  the  battery 
must  be  tested  to  determine  the  polar- 
ity. Where  a  large  amount  of  this 
work  is  to  be  done,  as  in  automobile 
and  motorboat  repairing,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  an  indicator  to  save  time.  A 
cheap  indicator  for  this  purpose  can 
be  made  of  a  G-in.  test  tube  having  its 
ends  sealed  and  inclosing  a  saturated 
solution  of  ammonium  chloride  (sal 
ammoniac)  and  water.  The  sealed 
ends  are  made  by  inserting  a  piece  of 
wire  through  a  cork  and,  after  forcing 
this  tightly  into  the  end  of  the  test 
tube,  covering  it  with  sealing  wax. 

To  use,  connect  the  terminals  to  the 


A  Simple  Pocket  Indicator  for  Finding  the  Negative 
Wire  in  Battery  Cable  Lines 

battery  lines,  and  the  end  of  the  wire  in 
the  solution  giving  off  bubbles  is  the 
negative  wire. — Contributed  by  H.  S. 
Parker,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


Small    Steam-Engine    Cylinders    Made 
from  Seamless  Brass  Tubing 

In  making  a  small  steam  engine  it 
was  desired  to  use  seamless  brass  tub- 
ing for  the  cylinders.  To  have  them 
exactly  alike  a  piece  of  tubing  of  the 
right  size  and  of  sufficient  length  for 
both  cylinders  was  fitted  on  a  wood 
mandrel.  A,  and  the  ends  trued  up  in  a 
lathe.  As  these  cylinders  were  to  fit 
into  holes  bored  in  a  steel  bedplate,  it 
was  necessary  to  have  a  flange  at  one 
end.  A  groove  was  turned  in  the  tub- 
ing B  in  the  center,  and  as  a  final  oper- 
ation a  parting  tool  was  used  on  the 


m 


A  Wood  Mandrel  Used  to  Face  the  Ends  and  Turn 
Flanges  on  Tubing  for  Cylinders 

line  CD.  This  resulted  in  a  pair  of 
cylinders  flanged  to  fit  the  bedplate. 
— Contributed  by  Harry  F.  Lowe, 
Washington,  D.  C. 


397 


A    Pocket    Direct  -  Current    Voltmeter 


The  assembled  drawings  of  a  very 
simple  voltmeter  are  shown  in  Fig.  1, 
and  its  operation  is  as  follows:  The 
moving  portion  consists  of  a  pointer, 
or  needle,  A ;  a  small  permanent  mag- 
net, or  armature,  B,  and  a  counter- 
weight, C,  mounted  upon  a  small  steel 
shaft,  D.  The  ends  of  this  steel  shaft 
are  pointed  and  rest  in  bearings  pro- 
vided in  the  U-shaped  piece  of  brass 
E,  which  is  rigidly  fastened  to  the  fiber 
base  F,  by  means  of  two  screws.  The 
permanent  magnet  B,  carried  on  the 
shaft  D,  is  at  all  times  under  the  mag- 
netic influence  of  the  permanent  horse- 
shoe magnet,  G,  which  is  fastened,  by 
means  of  thin  brass  straps,  H  H,  and 
small  screws,  to  the  base  F,  so  that 
the  ends  of  the  armature  B  are  di- 
rectly above  the  poles  of  the  horseshoe 
magnet.  The  armature  B  will  assume 
the  position  shown  in  the  sketch  when 
it  is  acted  upon  by  the  permanent 
magnet  G  alone  and  the  moving  sys- 
tem is  perfectly  balanced.  A  solenoid, 
J,  is  mounted  in  the  position  shown. 
When  there  is  a  current  in  its  winding 
its  soft-iron  core  will  become  magne- 
tized and  the  magnetic  pole  produced 
at  the  lower  end  will  produce  a  mag- 
netic force  upon  the  armature  B,  with 
the  result  that  the  armature  will  be 
rotated  either  in  a  clockwise  or 
counter-clockwise  direction,  depending 
upon  its  polarity  and  the  polarity  of 
the  end  of  the  core  adjacent  to  it.  Thus, 
if  the  left  end  of  the  armature  has  north 
polarity,  the  right  end  south  polarity, 
and  the  lower  end  of  the  core  is  mag- 
netized to  a  south  polarity  the  arma- 
ture will  be  rotated  clockwise,  for  the 
left  end,  or  north  pole,  will  be  attracted 
by  the  lower  end  of  the  iron  core,  which 
is  a  south  pole,  and  the  right  end  will 
be  repelled.  This  is  in  accordance  with 
one  of  the  fundamental  laws  of  magne- 
tism which  states  that  magnetic  poles 
of  unlike  polarity  attract  each  other 
and  those  of  like  polarity  repel  each 
other.  The  amount  the  armature  B  is 
rotated  will  depend  upon  the  relative 
effects  of  the  pole  of  the  solenoid  and 
the  permanent  magnet  G.  The  strength 


of  the  pole  of  the  solenoid  will  depend 
upon  the  current  in  its  winding  and 
the  number  of  times  the  current  passes 
around  the  core,  or  the  number  of  turns 
in  the  winding.  In  other  words,  the 
strength   of   the   pole   of   the   solenoid 


The  Parts  as  They  are  Assembled  to  Make  a  Pocket 
Voltmeter  for  Direct  Currents 

varies  as  the  product  of  the  current  and 
the  number  of  turns,  which  is  called 
the  ampere-turns.  The  same  magnetic 
effect  can  be  produced  by  a  large  cur- 
rent passing  through  a  few  turns  or  a 
small  current  passing  through  a  rela- 
tively large  number  of  turns.  This 
simple  relation  of  current  and  turns 
gives  a  means  of  adjusting  the  current 
capacity  of  the  instrument  so  that  a 
full-scale  deflection  of  the  needle  will 
correspond  to  any  desired  maximum 
current.  The  instrument  may  be  used 
as  either  a  voltmeter  or  as  an  ammeter, 
and  its  operation  will  be  identical  in 
each  case.  The  resistance  of  the  volt- 
meter, however,  will  be  many  times  the 
resistance  of  the  ammeter,  as  it  will 
be  connected  directly  across  the  line, 
while  the  ammeter  will  always  be  in 
series  in  the  circuit  in  which  it  is  de- 
sired to  measure  the  current.  The 
following  description  and  suggestion  as 
to  how  to  proceed  in  the  construction 
of  this  instrument  may  be  useful  to 
those  who  undertake  to  build  one.  All 
the  minor  details  and  some  of  the  di- 
mensions will  be  omitted  in  the  descrip- 
tion, but  these  can  be  easily  supplied. 
Procure  a  piece  of  hard  rubber  or 
fiber,  about  14  i"-  '^  thickness  and  of 
sufficient  size  to  cut  from  it  a  disk,  2^2 


398 


in.  in  diameter.  Make  a  small  horse- 
shoe magnet  from  a  piece  of  the  very 
best  steel  ol)taina))Ie,  and  magnetize  it 
to  as  high  a  strength  as  possible.  This 
magnet  is  made  of  a  piece  of  steel,  Vs 
in.  thick,  about  %  in.  in  breadth,  and 
of  such  length  that  the  overall  length- 
wise dimension  of  the  completed  mag- 
net will  be  about  1%  in.  and  the  dis- 
tance between  the  inside  edges  of  the 
ends  a  little  greater  than  14  in.  Fasten 
the  completed  magnet  to  the  base  F 
by  means  of  two  or  three  straps,  made 
from  some  thin  brass,  and  small  ma- 
chine or  wood  screws. 

Then  cut  from  some  iV-in.  sheet 
brass  a  piece  having  the  general  ap- 
pearance and  dimensions  shown  at  A, 
Fig.  2.  Bend  the  ends  of  this  piece 
over  at  right  angles  to  the  center  por- 
tion along  the  dotted  lines.  Drill  the 
hole  at  the  upper  end  and  thread  it 
for  a  -fiT-iii-  machine  screw.  By  means 
of  a  pointed  drill,  make  a  small  recess 
at  the  lower  end  directly  opposite  the 
first  hole.  This  small  recess  is  to  form 
the  lower  bearing  for  the  shaft  sup- 
porting the  moving  system,  while  a 
small  recess  cut  centrally  in  the  end  of 
a  screw,  mounted  in  the  upper  hole, 
will  form  the  upper  bearing.  The  screw 
placed  in  the  upper  hole  need  be  only 
about  ^B  in.  long.  The  holes  in  the 
two  wings  are  for  mounting  this  piece 
upon  the  fiber  base,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1. 

The  shaft  for  supporting  the  moving 
system  is  made  of  a  piece  of  a  hatpin. 
It  is  about  If  in.  long  and  its  ends  are 
pointed  so  that  they  will  turn  freely 
in  the  bearings  provided  for  them. 

The  armature  is  cut  from  a  piece 
of  iG-in.  sheet  steel.  It  is  made  about 
%  in.  long,  -/jj  in.  wide  at  the  center, 
tapering  to  %  in.  at  the  ends.  A  hole 
is  drilled  in  its  center  so  that  it  may 
be  forced  onto  the  shaft.  It  is  mounted 
so  that  its  lower  surface  comes  about 
14  in.  from  the  lower  end  of  the  shaft. 

Then  cut  from  some  very  thin  brass 
a  piece,  that  is  to  form  the  needle,  14 
in.  wide  at  one  end  and  tapered  to  a 
point  at  the  other,  the  total  length 
being  about  3  in.  Drill  a  hole  in  the 
large  end  of  thi.s  piece,  the  same  size 
as  the  shaft  and  V2  'n.  from  the  end. 


This  piece  is  not  fastened  to  the  shaft 
until  some  of  the  other  parts  are  com- 
pleted. 

The  spool  upon  which  the  winding 
is  to  be  placed  is  made  as  follows: 
Procure  a  piece  of  very  soft  wrought 
iron,  114  in.  long  and  14  in-  i"  diam- 
eter, to  form  the  core.  The  ends  of 
the  spool  are  made  of  thin  brass  and 
are  dimensioned  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
at  B  and  C.  The  piece  shown  at  B 
is  to  form  the  lower  end  of  the  spool, 
and  is  bent  at  right  angles  along  the 
dotted  line.  The  two  holes  at  the  lower 
edge  are  for  attaching  the  end  of  the 
spool  to  the  fiber  base.  The  piece  shown 
at  C  forms  the  upper  end  of  the  spool 
and  at  the  same  time  a  back  upon 
which  the  scale  of  the  instrument  is 
mounted.  The  holes  in  the  lower  edge 
are  threaded  for  small  machine  screws, 
as  it  will  be  necessary  to  fasten  this 
piece  to  the  base  by  means  of  screws 
that  pass  through  the  base  from  the 
under  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  Bend 
the  upper  and  lower  portion  of  the 
piece  over  at  right  angles  to  the  center 
portion  along  the  dotted  lines.  Make 
sure  that  the  large  hole  in  the  center 
of  each  end  piece  is  of  such  size  that 
it  will  fit  very  tight  on  the  end  of  the 
wrought-iron  core.  Force  the  end 
pieces  onto  the  ends  of  the  core  a  short 
distance,  say,  -j',;  in.,  and  hammer  down 
the  edges  of  the  core  so  that  the  end 
pieces  cannot  be  easily  removed.  In 
fastening  the  ends  to  the  core  be  sure 
that  the  parts  that  are  to  rest  upon  the 
base  are  parallel  with  each  other  and 
extend  in  opposite  directions ;  also  that 
the  ends  are  at  right  angles  to  the 
core.  Then  insulate  the  inner  portions 
of  the  completed  spool  with  several 
thicknesses  of  onion-skin  paper,  or  any 
good-quality,  thin  writing  paper,  and 
shellac.  The  winding  will  be  described 
later. 

Mount  the  spool  and  support  for  the 
bearings  upon  the  base  so  that  they 
occupy  the  positions,  relative  to  each 
other,  indicated  in  Fig.  1.  A  paper 
scale  is  then  mounted  upon  the  brass 
base  provided  for  it  by  means  of  some 
thin  shellac.  The  upper  and  lower  lines 
for  the  scale  can  now  be  drawn  upon 


399 


the  paper,  using  the  center  of  the  screw 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  needle  as  a 
center.  These  lines  are  best  placed 
about  Vs  in.  apart  and  not  nearer  the 
edge  of  the  base  than  14  inches. 

The  needle  is  bent  over  at  right 
angles  y%  '"•  from  the  center  of  the 
shaft.  Another  right-angle  bend  in  the 
needle  is  then  made  so  that  the  pointed 
end  will  be  about  jV  in.  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  scale  when  the  large  end 
of  the  needle  is  fastened  to  the  shaft 
%  in.  from  the  upper  end  of  the  latter. 
Turn  the  needle  on  the  shaft  so  that 
the  pointer  is  at  the  left  end  of  the 
scale  when  the  moving  system  is  at 
rest.  The  shaft  must  be  exactly  verti- 
cal when  this  adjustment  is  made.  Cut 
the  end  of  the  needle  down  until  its 
end  is  midway  between  the  two  scale 
lines.  Solder  the  needle  to  the  shaft, 
and  then  place  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
solder  on  the  broad  end  to  balance  the 
system  perfectly  and  allow  it  to  come 
to  rest  in  any  position  when  the  arma-  ' 
ture  B  is  not  influenced  by  any  mag- 
netic field. 

A  containing  case  for  the  instrument 
may  be  made  as  follows:  Make  a  cyl- 
inder from  some  thin  sheet  brass,  hav- 
ing exactly  the  same  inside  diameter 
as  the  base,  and  a  height  a  little  greater 
than  the  vertical  distance  from  the 
lower  surface  of  the  base  to  the  upper 
surface  of  the  needle.  Also  a  disk 
from  some  thin  sheet  brass,  having  a 
diameter  Vs  in.  greater  than  the  outside 
diameter  of  the  cylinder.  Round  ofT 
the  edges  of  this  disk  and  cut  a  curved 
slot  in  it  directly  over  the  scale,  about 
%  in.  wide  and  of  the  same  length  and 
form  as  the  scale.  Solder  the  disk  to 
one  end  of  the  cylinder,  placing  the 
solder  all  on  the  inside.  To  prevent 
moisture  from  entering  the  case,  fasten 
a  piece  of  thin  glass  on  the  under  side 
of  the  slot  in  the  disk  by  means  of  some 
shellac  and  several  pieces  of  brass  sol- 
dered to  the  disk  and  bent  down  onto 
the  glass.  The  case  can  now  be  fas- 
tened to  the  base  by  means  of  several 
screws,  passing  through  its  lower  end 
into  the  edge  of  the  base.  Two  small 
binding  posts  are  mounted  on  the  out- 
side of  the  case,  about  90  deg.  apart 


and  well  insulated  from  each  other  and 
from  the  case,  to  serve  as  terminals  for 
the  instrument. 

The  instrument  is  now  complete 
with  the  exception  of  the  winding. 
Since  this  is  to  be  a  voltmeter  and  it 


Details  of  the  Supports  for  the  Coil  and  for  the 
Needle,  or  Pointer,  Shaft 

is  always  desirable  that  a  voltmeter 
take  as  small  a  current  as  possible,  the 
winding  must  consist  of  a  relatively 
large  number  of  turns  of  small  wire, 
each  turn  carrying  a  small  current. 
The  difference  in  the  construction  of 
different  instruments  necessitates  that 
their  winding  contain  a  different  num- 
ber of  turns  in  order  that  a  given  volt- 
age may  produce  a  full-scale  deflection. 
A  little  experimenting  with  different 
windings  is  the  easiest  means  of  de- 
termining the  proper  size  of  wire  and 
number  of  turns  to  meet  individual 
requirements.  After  adjusting  the 
winding  so  that  the  maximum  voltage 
it  is  desired  to  measure  produces  a 
full-scale  deflection,  the  scale  is  cali- 
brated by  marking  the  positions  of  the 
needle  in  accordance  with  those  of  the 
needle  of  a  standard  instrument  con- 
nected in  parallel  with  it.  In  marking 
the  scale  of  an  ammeter,  connect  the 
instruments  in  series.  Remember  that 
if  the  instrument  is  to  be  used  as  an 
ammeter,  it  must  have  as  low  a  re- 
sistance as  possible  and  that  to  prevent 
undue  heating,  the  wire  must  have 
ample   cross   section. 

If  difficulty  is  experienced  due  to  the 
continuous  vibration  of  the  needle, 
although  the  current  be  practically 
constant,  this  trouble  can  be  greatly 
reduced  by  mounting  a  paper  wind 
vane  on  the  moving  system,  which 
will   tend    to    dampen    its   movement. 


400 


Falling  Leaves  in  a  Nature  Scene 

Use  an  ordinary  pasteboard  box,  a 
shoe  box  or  lartjer,  and  cut  out  one 
end.     Fasten  the  box  to  the  ceiling  by 


The  Box  as  It  is  Prepared  to  Fasten  on   the  Ceiling 
for  Dropping  the  Leaves 

means  of  pasteboard  strips.  One  end 
of  these  strips  is  pasted  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  box  and  the  other  ends 
tacked  to  the  ceiling.  Fit  a  piece  of 
board,  V2  in.  thick,  into  the  open  end 
of  the  box  so  that  it  will  slide  easily 
back  and  forth  on  the  inside.  Place 
this  slide  in  the  back  of  the  box,  attach 
a  string  to  it  and  run  this  through 
double  tacks  placed  in  the  ceiling  and 
to  the  side  wings. 

Have  the  box  almost  full  of  autumn 
leaves,  and  when  the  slide  is  pulled 
slowlv  l)y  the  operator,  they  will  be 
pushed,  one  or  two  at  a  time,  out  of 
the  open  end,  and  will  drift  down  to 
the  stage  as"  naturally  as  if  falling  from 
trees,  making  quite  a  realistic  scene. — 
Contrilnited  by  Miss  S.  E.  Jocelyn, 
New  Haven,  Conn. 


Home  or  Traveling  Utility  Bed  Pocket 

The  pocket  is  made  of  cretonne  with 
wire  hooks  attached  on  the  upper  edge. 


Various  Pockets  for  the  Change  Garments  tor  Use 
at  Home  or  in  Traveling 

The    compartments    are    arranged    as 
needs  may  require.     It  can  be  hooked 


on  the  head,  foot  or  side  rail  of  the  bed 
or  used,  as  shown,  in  a  sleeping  car.  It 
provides  a  place  to  keep  the  slippers, 
gown  and  other  necessities,  and  can 
be  rolled  up  and  put  in  a  bag. — Con- 
tributed by  Harriette  I.  Lockwood, 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


A   Paper   Perforator 

In  an  emergency  an  ordinary  hack- 
saw blade  may  be  made  to  serve  very 
acceptably  as  a  paper  perforator.  The 
toothed  edge  is  applied  to  the  paper 
and  the  reverse  edge  tapped  with  a  mal- 
let or  hammer.  A  considerable  number 
of  sheets  may  be  perforated  at  one 
time,  depending  of  course  on  the  thick- 
ness and  softness  of  the  paper. 


Turning    Brass    Rings 

Occasionally  an  amateur  has  need 
of  brass  rings  of  round  cross  section, 
and  if  their  construction  is  not  under- 
stood, the  task 
is  a  difficult  one. 
If  a  piece  of 
brass  tubing,  an 
old  bushing  or  a 
cored  piece  is  at 
hand,  a  part  of 
the  work  is  al- 
ready done.  If  not,  a  piece  of  stock 
with  large  enough  outside  diameter 
should  be  chucked  in  the  lathe  and 
drilled  out  with  the  right  size  of  drill. 
A  tin  or  pasteboard  template  should 
be  prepared  the  size  of  the  ring  sec- 
tion— a  half  circle  is  best,  and  it  is 
easiest  made  by  drilling  a  hole  in  the 
tin  and  cutting  it  in  two.  An  inside 
boring  tool  and  a  turning  tool  are 
necessary.  It  is  preferable  to  shape 
the  inside  first,  cutting  it  out  roughly 
and  checking  up  with  the  template. 
The  amount  of  inside  cutting  is  shown 
in  the  drawing.  A  hard  scraper  and 
emery  cloth  maj'  be  used  for  smooth- 
ing and  polishing. 

Turn  and  polish  the  outside  and 
finally  turn  as  far  down  on  the  inner 
quarter  as  can  be  done  without  cutting 
ofif  the  finish,  then  polish  and  cut  it 
ofif.  It  only  requires  a  little  filing  to 
smooth  up  the  rim  of  rough  metal  left. 


The  Iilectric  Globes,  as  They  Light  beneath  the  Spray.  Illuminate  the  Top,  and  the  Light  Follows 
the  Streams  of  Water  So  That  They  Appear  Like  Streams  of  Light 


An  Electric  Fountain 


By  WALTER  P.  BUTLER 


To  make  the  grounds  as  attractive 
as  possible  for  a  lawn  party  given  one 
night,  I  constructed  an  electric  foun- 
tain which  at  first  appeared  to  be  an 
expensive  proposition,  but  when  com- 
pleted the  desired  eiTect  was  produced 
without  any  expense  whatever,  as  I 
had  the  things  used  in  its  construction 
on  hand. 

A  light  frame,  9  in.  square,  was 
made,  of  %-in.  material,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  and  a  grooved  pulley  was  at- 
tached exactly  in  the  center  on  the 
tinder  side  of  the  crosspiece.  A  turned 
stick.  A,  2  in.  in  diameter  and  2i/4  in. 
long,  was  fastened  to  the  face  of  the 
pulley  so  that  it  turned  true  as  the 
pulley  and  frame  revolved.  A  hole 
was  then  bored  centrally  throligh  the 
three  parts,  the  frame  crosspiece,  the 
pulley,  and  the  turned  stick,  of  a  size 
to  fit  a  spindle  about  %  in.  in  diameter. 

A  box  was  procured,  large  enough 
for  the  frame  to  turn  in  freely,  and  a 
block  of  wood  was  fastened  centrally 
in  its  bottom,  which  had  a  %-in.  pin 
set  in  a  hole  bored  in  the  center.  The 
pin  may  be  of  hard  wood,  but  it  is 
better  to  use  metal.  A  bolt,  or  piece 
of  rod,  will  answer  the  purpose  of  a 
pin  very  well. 


A  small  battery  motor — I  had  one 
on  hand  and  did  not  need  to  purchase 
one — was  fastened  to  one  side  of  the 
box  so  that  its  pulley  was  in  line  with 
the  pulley  on  the  lower  surface  of  the 
frame.  The  batteries  to  run  the  motor 
were  placed  in  the  corner  of  the  box, 
where  the  i  evolving  frame  would  not 
touch  them.  The  motor  may  be  of 
larger  current  capacity,  however,  and 
run  direct  on  the  current  used  for  the 
lamps. 

About  %  in.  from  the  lower  end  of 
the  turned  piece  A,  a  brass  strip  was 
fastened  around  it.  This  work  should 
be  neatly  done,  and  the  joint  soldered 
and  smoothed,  so  that  the  outer  sur- 
face will  not  catch  on  the  brush  used 
to  make  the  contact.  This  ring  can  be 
better  made  by  cutting  the  width  from 
a  piece  of  brass  tubing  of  a  size  to  fit 
on  the  turned  stick  A.  About  l^^  in. 
from  the  lower  end  four  segments  of  a 
circle  were  fastened  so  as  to  make  a 
space  of  about  i/i  in.  between  their 
ends.  This  construction  is  clearly 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  A  cross  section, 
showing  the  wire  connections  from 
the  brass  ring  and  segments  to  the 
lamps  and  where  they  lead  out  on  top, 
is  shown  at  B.    The  contact  brushes 


401 


402 


consist  of  brass  strips  fastened  with 
bolts  to  an  upright,  C,  made  of  wood 
and  attached  to  one  edge  of  the  block 
in  the  bottom  of  the  box.  Two  nuts 
are  used  on  each  bolt,  between  which 
are  fastened  the  lead  wires  from  a 
source  of  current. 

The  wiring  diagram  is  shown  in  Fig. 

3.  The  wire  D  from  the  ring  is  run  to 
the  brass  base  of  each  lamp,  of  which 
there  are  four.  The  wires  E,  from 
each  segment,  are  connected  with 
solder  to  each  screw  ferrule  of  the 
lamps,  and  the  ends  are  left  bare  and 
open,  as  shown,  between  the  lamps. 

A  lamp  is  fastened  to  each  corner 
of  the  frame  on  top,  as  shown  in  Fig. 

4,  with  a  piece  of  wire  wrapped  once 
around  the  screw  ferrule  and  the  ex- 
tending ends  held  with  staples.  The 
wire  used  should  be  heavily  insulated 
or,  if  it  is  of  iron,  a  rubber  tube 
slipped  over  it.  A  piece  of  tin,  or 
bright  metal,  is  placed  beneath  each 
globe  for  a  reflector. 

A  glass  plate  was  used  to  cover  the 
box,  and  a  lawn  spray  of  the  fountain 
type  was  placed  on  the  glass.  The 
globes,  as  they  light  beneath  the 
spray,  illuminate  the  top  and  the  light 


A  Mystery  Coin  Box 

The  effect  of  this  trick  is  as  follows: 
A  small  metal  box,  just  large  enough 
to  hold  a  half  dollar  and  about  Y^  in. 
high,  with  a  cover  that  fits  snugly  over 
the  top,  is  passed  out  to  be  examined, 
and  when  handed  back  to  the  per- 
former he  places  it  on  the  finger  ends 
of  his  left  hand,  and  a  half  dollar  is 
dropped  into  it  and  the  cover  put  on. 
The  box  is  then  shaken  to  prove  that 
the  coin  is  still  there.  The  performer 
then  taps  the  box  with  his  fingers  and 
picks  it  up  with  the  other  hand  and  the 
coin  will  appear  to  have  fallen  through 
the  bottom.  Both  the  coin  and  box  are 
then  handed  out  for  examination. 

This  seemingly  impossible  effect  is 
made  when  the  performer  places  the 
cover  on  the  box.  The  box  is  resting 
on  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand  and  the 
cover  is  held  between  the  thumb  and 
forefinger  of  the  right  hand,  but  just 
before  placing  the  cover  on,  the  box  is 
turned  over  with  the  right  thumb,  and 
the  cover  is  placed  on  the  bottom  in- 
stead of  the  top. 

The  trick  can  be  done  within  a  foot 
of  the  spectators  without  their  seeing 


Details  of  the  Different  Parts  to 
Construct  the  Electric  Fountain 


follows  the  streams  of  water  so  that 
they  appear  like  streams  of  light. 
Each  light  is  turned  on  in  succession 
as  the  frame  revolves  within  the  box, 
and  by  using  globes  of  different  colors, 
an  exceedingly  beautiful  effect  is  ob- 
tained. If  the  bared  ends  of  the  wires 
are  twisted  together  between  the 
globes,  these  will  all  glow  at  once. 


GROUND 


FiG.5 


the  deception.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
hide  the  box  with  the  right  hand  when 
placing  the  cover,  although  this  is  not 
necessary. 


403 


How  to  Make  a  Small  Series  Motor 


The  motor  here  described  has  l)een 
constructed  and  found  to  give  very 
good  results.  It  is  simple  to  build  and 
the  materials  required  can  be  easily  ob- 
tained. The  armature  core  and  field, 
or  frame,  are  made  of  laminated  iron, 
instead  tif  being  cast  as  is  often  done 
by  the  manufacturers,  which  is  a  de- 
cided ad\antage,  as  certain  losses  are 
thereby  reduced,  and  its  operation  will 
be  improved  by  this  type  of  construc- 
tion especially  if  used  on  an  alternat- 
ing-current  circuit. 

The  machine  will  be  divided  into 
three  main  parts,  the  construction  of 
each  of  which  will  be  taken  up  in  turn 
and  the  method  of  procedure  discussed 
in  detail.  These  parts  are  the  com- 
pleted armature,  the  field  and  bearings, 
and  the  brushes  together  with  suit- 
able terminals  and  connections. 

The  armature  core  is  constructed 
from  a  number  of  pieces,  having  dimen- 
sions that  correspond  to  those  given  in 
A,  Fig.  1.  These  pieces  are  cut  from 
thin  annealed  sheet  iron,  in  sufficient 
number  to  make  a  pile,  %  in.  high, 
when  placed  on  top  of  each  other  and 
firmly  clamped.  It  would,  no  doubt, 
be  best  to  first  lay  out  one  of  these 
pieces  very  carefully  and  then  cut  it 
out  and  mark  out  the  other  pieces  with 
the  first  one  as  a  pattern,  being  careful 
to  file  off  all  the  rough  edges  on  each 
piece. 

Now  obtain  a  piece  of  Vji^-in.  iron  or 
brass  rod,  Si/i  in.  long,  that  is  to  serve 
as  a  shaft  upon  which  to  mount  the 
armature  and  commutator.  This  rod 
is  threaded  for  a  distance  of  Ys  in.  on 
one  end  and  1%  in.  on  the  other. 
Procure  five  brass  nuts,  i/8  ''i-  i"  thick- 
ness, to  fit  the  threads  on  the  rod.  If 
possible  have  the  ends  of  the  rod  cen- 
tered before  the  threads  are  cut,  for 
reasons  to  be  given  later.  Place  one 
of  the  nuts  on  that  end  of  the  shaft 
that  is  threaded  for  %  in.,  and  in  such 
a  position  that  its  inner  surface  is  % 
in.  from  the  end  of  the  rod.  Solder 
this  nut  to  the  rod  when  it  is  in  the 
proper  place  and  remove  all  extra  sol- 
der.    Drill  a  Yi-in.  hole  in  each  of  the 


armature  stampings  and  place  them  on 
the  shaft,  clamping  them  together  with 
three   small   clamps,   one   on   each   ex- 


, 

3- 

rf 

■*"£■* 

3' 

*>  F.G.I 

Details  of  the  Armature  Laminations  and  the  Com- 
mutator Segments,  and  the  Method  of  Mounting 
Armature  Core  and  Commutator 

tension  or  pole.  Then  place  a  second 
nut  on  the  shaft  and  draw  it  up  tight 
against  tiie  last  stamping  placed  in 
])osition.  and  solder  it  to  the  shaft. 
Next  wind  two  or  three  layers  of  good 
strong  tape  around  each  of  the  rec- 
tangular portions  of  the  armature  and 
then  remove  the  clamps.  Make  sure 
that  all  the  edges  of  the  different  lami- 
nations are  perfectly  even  before  ap- 
plying the  tape. 

The  shaft  is  then  placed  between 
two  centers  to  determine  whether  the 
core  is  approximately  balanced  and 
runs  true.  If  the  armature  core  is  un- 
balanced or  not  true,  the  trouble  should 
be  corrected  before  proceeding  with 
the  remainder  of  the  armature  con- 
struction. The  armature  winding  is 
not  to  be  put  on  the  core  until  the 
commutator  has  been  constructed  and 
mounted  on  the  shaft. 

The  commutator  consists  of  three 
pieces  of  thin  sheet  brass  similar  to 
that  shown  at  B,  P'ig  1,  mounted  on 
the  surface  of  a  cylinder  of  insulating 
material,  %  in.  long  and  %  in.  in 
diameter.  A  i/4-in.  hole  is  drilled 
lengthwise  through  the  cylinder  of  in- 
sulating material.  Bend  the  pieces  of 
brass  around  the  outside  of  the  cylin- 
der, and  turn  all  the  lugs,  except  the 
center  one,  marked  C,  over  at  right 
angles  and  put  a  small  nail  or  screw 
through  the  holes  in   the  ends  of  the 


404 


lugs  into  the  cylinder.  These  pieces 
of  brass  are  equally  spaced  around  the 
cylinder  so  that  all  the  lugs,  not 
turned  down,  project  in  the  same  direc- 


Diagram  of  the  Winding  on  the  Armature  and 
Detail  of  the  Field  Laminations 

tion.  Now  place  a  nut  on  the  end  of  the 
shaft  that  extends  the  greatest  distance 
through  the  armature,  so  that  its  out- 
side surface  is  i/o  in.  from  the  surface 
of  the  end  of  the  armature  core  next 
to  it,  and  solder  the  nut  to  the  shaft. 
Place  the  commutator  on  the  shaft  so 
that  the  projections  on  the  pieces  of 
brass  are  toward  the  armature  core 
and  the  spaces  between  the  ends  of  the 
pieces  occupy  the  position  relative  to 
the  cores,  shown  at  A,  Fig.  2.  Another 
nut  is  then  placed  on  the  shaft  and 
drawn  up  tight  against  the  cylinder. 
The  proper  spacing  of  the  various  parts 
on  the  shaft  of  the  machine  is  shown 
at  D,  Fig.  1.  Another  small  nut  is 
.  placed  on  the  end  of  the  shaft,  away 
from  the  commutator,  so  that  its  out- 
side surface  is  i/o  in.  from  the  surface 
of  the  end  of  the  armature  core. 

The  threads  on  that  part  of  the  shaft 
extending  beyond  the  last  nut  on  each 
end  are  now  filed  ofif,  which  can  be 
easily  done  by  placing  the  shaft  be- 
tween the  centers  of  a  lathe  and  re- 
volving it  quite  rapidly,  the  file  being 
applied  to  the  parts  that  are  to  be  cut 
down. 

Obtain  a  small  quantity  of  No.  22 
gauge  single-cotton-covered  copper 
wire  and  wind  four  layers  on  each  of 
the  three  legs,  or  poles,  of  the  arma- 
ture core,  insulating  the  layers  from 
each  other  and  the  entire  winding  from 
the  core  by  means  of  paper  and  shellac. 


The  three  coils  are  wound  in  the  same 
direction  about  their  respective  cores 
and  each  winding  is  started  at  the 
center  of  the  armature  with  2  or  3  in. 
of  wire  extending  out  toward  the  com- 
mutator. The  outside  end  of  each 
winding  will  terminate  at  the  end  of 
the  coil  toward  the  center  of  the  arma- 
ture, if  an  even  numljer  of  layers  is 
wound  on,  and  is  securely  fastened  by 
means  of  two  or  three  turns  of  heavy 
thread.  The  inside  end  of  one  coil  is 
then  connected  to  the  outside  end  of 
the  next  one,  and  so  on.  These  con- 
nections can  be  easily  made,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  proper  connections 
made  to  the  commutator,  by  cutting 
tlie  inside  end  of  one  coil  and  the  out- 
side end  of  the  next  so  that  they  will 
reach  the  lug  on  the  nearest  segment 
of  the  commutator,  with  about  14  in. 
to  spare,  then  removing  the  insulation 
from  each  for  about  Vs  in.  and  solder- 
ing them  both  to  the  same  lug.  The 
arrangement  of  the  winding  is  shown 
at  A,  Fig.  2.  Connect  all  of  the  coils 
and  segments  in  this  manner,  and  the 
armature  of  the  motor  is  complete. 

The  field  or  frame  of  the  machine  is 
made  from  a  number  of  laminations 
whose  dimensions  correspond  to  those 
given  in  B,  Fig.  2.  As  many  lamina- 
tions are  used  in  the  construction  of 
the  frame  as  the  number  of  pieces  in 
the  armature,  if  iron  of  the  same  thick- 
ness is  used.  Four  of  the  laminations 
have  extensions  at  their  lower  corners 
to  correspond  to  the  parts  shown  by 
the  dotted  lines  in  B,  Fig.  2.  Place 
all  of  these  laminations  in  a  pile  and 
clamp  them  rigidly  together,  then  drill 
the  four  holes,  indicated  by  the  letters 
C,  D,  E  and  F,  with  a  I'V-in.  drill.  Two 
of  the  pieces  with  the  extensions  on 
them  are  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pile  and  the  other  two  on  top. 

Place  a  /o-in.  bolt  through  each  of 
the  lower  holes  and  draw  up  the  nuts 
on  them  tight.  Procure  two  pieces  of 
f'lj-in.  rod,  fi/'n  in.  long,  and  thread  each 
end  for  a  distance  of  i/^  in.  Get  8  nuts 
for  these  rods,  about  Vs  in.  thick  and 
^/fi  i'l-  across  the  face,  if  possible.  Both 
sides  of  these  nuts  are  filed  down  flat. 
Put  the  threaded  rods  through  the  two 


405 


upper  holes  in  the  field  frame  and 
place  a  nut  on  each  end  and  draw  them 
tight,  leaving  an  equal  length  of  rod 
protruding  from  each  side. 

Obtain  two  pieces  of  %-in.  brass,  % 
in.  wide,  one  4%  in.  long  and  the  other 
5%  in.  long.  Bend  these  pieces  into 
the  forms  shown  at  A,  Fig.  3.  Drill  a 
f'f-in.  hole  in  each  end  of  both  pieces 
so  that  they  may  be  mounted  upon  the 
ends  of  the  rods  protruding  from  the 
field  frame.  The  exact  center  of  the 
space  the  armature  is  to  occupy  is  then 
marked  on  each  of  these  pieces,  and  a 
hole  is  drilled  in  each,  having  the  same 
diameter  as  the  ends  of  the  armature 
shaft. 

The  extensions  on  the  outside  lami- 
nations are  bent  over  at  right  angles  to 
the  main  portion  of  the  frame,  thus 
forming  a  base  upon  whicli  the  motor 
may  rest.  Holes  may  be  drilled  in  the 
extensions  after  they  are  bent  over  to 
be  used  in  mounting  the  frame  upon  a 
wooden  base. 

Procure  about  i/o  lb.  of  No.  18  gauge 
single-cotton-covered  copper  wire  and 
wind  it  on  the  lower  center  portion  of 
the  frame  until  the  depth  of  the  wind- 
ing is  about  1/2  in.  Be  careful  to  insu- 
late the  winding  well  and,  to  insure 
mechanical  protection,  place  a  layer  of 
adhesive  tape  outside.  About  4  or  5 
in.  of  wire  is  allowed  at  each  end  for 
making  connections.  It  is  best  to  have 
these  ends  terminate  on  the  commuta- 
tor side  of  the  frame. 

The  brushes  for  the  machine  are 
made  from  some  thin  sheet  copper  or 
brass,  and  are  shaped  and  dimensioned 
approximately  as  shown  at  B,  Fig.  3. 
Two  pieces  of  hard  rubber,  or  fiber,  % 
in.  square  and  %  in.  long,  serve  as 
mountings  for  the  brushes.  These 
pieces  of  insulation  are  mounted  in  the 
corners  of  the  armature  support,  at  the 
commutator  end,  by  means  of  two 
small  screws  in  each.  Mount  the 
brushes  on  these  pieces  so  that  their 
free  ends  bear  on  the  commutator  ex- 
actly opposite  each  other.  One  brush 
is  mounted  on  the  upper  end  of  its 
support  and  the  other  brush  on  the 
lower  end  of  its  support.  This  is  shown 
at  C,  Fig.  3.    Two  small  binding  posts 


are  mounted  at  the  same  time  as  the 
brushes,  and  are  electrically  connected 
to  the  brushes,  thus  affording  an  easy 
means  of  making  a  connection  to  the 


-3i- 


-3*  - 


"^ 


Detail  of  the  Armature  Supports  and  the  Brushes, 
and  the  Manner  of  Mounting  the  Brushes 

armature.  The  brushes  are  so  mounted 
as  to  bear  firmly  upon  the  commuta- 
tor. 

To  operate  the  motor,  connect  the 
armature  and  field  windings  in  series, 
and  the  combination  to  a  source  of 
electromotive  force  of  several  volts.  If 
it  is  desired  to  reverse  the  direction  of 
rotation,  reverse  the  connections  of 
either  the  armature  or  field  windings, 
but  not  both.  The  motor  may  be 
mounted  on  a  neat  wooden  base  and  the 
connections  all  brought  down  to  a  re- 
versing switch,  which  may  also  be 
mounted  on  the  same  base  as  the 
motor.  The  speed  can  be  varied  by 
changing  the  impressed  voltage,  or  by 
connecting  a  variable  resistance  in  the 
armature  circuit,  such  as  a  wire  rheo- 
stat. 

A  small  pulley  may  be  made  and  at- 
tached to  the  armature  shaft  so  that 
the  motor  may  be  used  in  driving  va- 
rious kinds  of  toys. 


Cooler  for  Milk  and  Butter 

An  earthen  jar  or  crock,  with  a  cover, 
set  in  a  box  con- 
taining moist 
sand  will  keep 
butter  and  milk 
in  hot  weather 
better  than  a  re- 
frigerator. The 
sand  must  be 
kept  moist  at  all 
times.  —  Edwin 
J.  Bachman,  Jr.,  Fullerton,  Pa. 


406 


Rubber  Bumper  on  a  Water  Faucet 

Sometimes  a  dish  is  broken  by  strik- 
ing it  on  the  faucet.  This  is  easily 
remedied  by  cutting  a  rubber  washer 
from  a  rubber-boot  heel  with  a  sharp 
chisel  and  a  hammer.  The  washer  is 
pushed  into  place  on  the  end  of  the 
faucet,  and  the  dishes  may  strike  the 
rubber  without  being  broken. — Con- 
tributed by  Harriette  I.  Lockwood, 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Boring  a  Clean-Edged  Hole 

When  boring  a  hole  in  wood,  with- 
draw the  bit  as  soon  as  the  worm 
shows,  then  start 
the  worm  in  the 
hole  on  the  oppo- 
site side  and  fin- 
ish boring  the 
hole.  It  will  then 
have  clean  edges 
on  both  sides  of 
the  wood.  Often  the  bit  pushes  splin- 
ters of  wood  ahead  of  it,  when  passing 
through,  but  by  using  the  method  de- 
scribed this  is  avoided. 


metal  and   leave  a   ragged   edge 


Drilling  Thin  Metal 

In  drilling  very  thin  stock  the  drill, 
if  not  properly  ground,  will  tear  the 

To 
cut  a  hole 
through  neatly 
the  drill  should 
be  ground  as 
illustrated.  The 
center  A  should  extend  about  -^  in. 
beyond  the  points  B.  The  point  A  lo- 
cates the  center  and  the  sharp  points 
B  cut  out  the  disk  of  metal.  Holes 
have  been  neatly  and  quickly  made 
with  this  drill  grinding  in  metal  meas- 
uring .0(12  in.  thickness. — Contributed 
by  Joseph  J.  Kolar,  Maywood,  111. 


CA  pencil  may  be  kept  from  falling 
out  of  the  pocket  by  wrapping  a  couple 
of  turns  of  tape  around  it  or  by  wrap- 
ping it  with  a  small  rubber  band. 


Flexible-Cord    Adjuster   for   an    Elec- 
trical Flatiron 

\\'hen  using  an  electrical  fliatiron  the 
flexible  cord  frequently  gets  under  the 
iron,  causing  much  trouble  for 
the  user,  and  mussing  up  the 
clothing.  The  cord  can  be  kept 
out  of  the  way  by  fastening  a 
pulley  to  the  ironing  board  and 
attaching  a  coil  spring  to  the 
electric  cord  between  the  pulley 
and  the  electric- 
fixture  socket.  A 
coil  spring  that 
will  draw  out 
about  3  ft.  should 
be  used. — Con- 
tributed by  Herbert  Blandford, 
mira,  N.  Y. 


A  Wood  Clothes  Peg 

If  clothes  that  are  slightly  damp  are 
hung  on  a  nail  or  metal  peg,  a  rust 
stain  that  is  almost  impossible 
to  remove  will  be  the  result. 
To  prevent  this, 
drive  a  nail  with 
the  head  re- 
moved into  the  wall  or  cleat, 
and  place  a  wood  peg  over  it. 
The  peg  may  be  turned  up  or  whittled 
out  with  a  pocket  knife  and  the  hole 
bored  with  a  hand  drill. — Contributed 
by  Wm.  A.  Robinson,  Waynesboro,  Pa. 


To  Make  Scratch  Pads  of  Old  Labels 

Labels  and  blank  paper  of  uniform 
size,  that  would  otherwise  be  cast 
aside,  can  be  turned  into  handy  scratch 
pads  by  placing 
them  between 
blocks  of  wood, 
secured  by  a 
wood  clamp,  and 
applying  paste 
on  two  edges, 
then  pressing  a 
strip  of  paper  on 
the  pasted  por- 
tions. The  edges  to  be  pasted  should 
project  a  trifle  beyond  the  edges  of 
the  blocks. 


407 


How   to   Make  an  Electric   Heater 


The  electric  heater  described  in  this 
article  is  very  simple  to  construct,  its 
operation  exceedingly  satisfactory,  and 
the  necessary  material  easily  procured 
at  a  small  cost  at  most  electrical-sup- 
ply stores.  The  few  tools  needed  are 
usually  found  about  every  home,  and 
the  heater  may  be  constructed  by  any 
ingenious  person. 

Procure  G  porcelain  tubes,  20  in.  long 
and  approximately  {^  in.  in  diameter. 
On  each  of  these  tubes  wind  2.5  ft.  of 
bare  No.  26  gauge  "Climax"  resistance 
wire.  The  various  turns  should  be  uni- 
formly distributed  along  the  tubes  and 
not  allowed  to  come  into  contact  with 
each  other,  which  can  be  prevented  by 
placing  a  thin,  narrow  coat  of  plaster 
of  Paris  along  the  side  of  each  of  the 
tubes  immediately  after  the  winding 
has  been  put  on.  Several  inches  of 
free  wire  should  be  allowed  at  each 
end,  for  making  connections,  and  the 
first  and  last  turns  on  each  tube  should 
be  securely  fastened  to  the  tube  by 
several  turns  of  binding  wire.  It  would 
be  best  not  to  extend  the  winding 
nearer  the  ends  of  the  tubes  than  Y4  in. 

Cut  from  some  heavy  tin,  or  other 
thin  sheet  metal,  two  disks,  6  in.  in 
diameter,  and  punch  si.x  jr.-in.  holes 
in  each  of  the  disks  at  equal  distances 
and  within  %  in.  of  the  outer  edge. 
Punch  two  %-in.  holes  in  one  of  these 
disks,  to  be  used  in  mounting  a  porce- 
lain socket,  and  also  one  i/o-in.  hole 
through  which  the  wires  may  be  led 
to  the  socket,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  In 
the  other  disk  punch  four  %-in.  holes, 
for  mounting  two  porcelain  single-pole 
snap  switches,  and  two  y^-in.  holes,  for 
leading  the  wires  through  to  the 
switches,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

Cut  off  six  lengths  of  i%-in.  iron  rod, 
23  in.  long,  and  thread  both  ends  of 
each  piece  for  a  length  of  11/4  in. 
Fasten  the  porcelain  tubes  between  the 
metal  disks,  by  placing  one  of  the  rods 
through  each  of  the  tubes  and  allowing 
the  ends  to  extend  through  the  ju-'m. 
holes  in  the  outer  edge  of  the  disks. 
A  nut  should  be  placed  on  each  end  of 
all  the  rods  and  drawn  up  so  that  the 


length  of  rod  protruding  at  each  end 
is  the  same.  Obtain  two  single-pole 
snap  switches  and  a  porcelain  socket, 
and  mount  them  on  the  ends  by  means 
of  some  small  stove  bolts. 

The  windings  on  the  porcelain  tubes 
should  be  connected  as  follows :     Let 


FiG.l  Fis.a 

Detail  of  the  Two  Ends  on  the  Heater  Giving 
Dimensions  and  the  Location  of  Parts 

the  windings  be  designated  by  the  let- 
ters A,  B,  C,  D,  E,  and  F,  and  their 
position  be  that  indicated  in  Figs.  1  and 
2.  The  primes  indicate  the  ends  of  the 
windings  at  the  socket  end,  and  the 
letters  without  the  primes  indicate  the 
ends  of  the  windings  at  the  switch  end 
of  the  heater.  The  ends  A  and  D 
should  be  connected  directly  together. 
The  ends  B  and  C  to  the  clips  of  the 
right-hand  snap  switch,  and  E  and  F, 
to  the  clips  of  the  left-hand  snap  switch. 
The  ends  F',  A',  and  B'  should  be  con- 
nected to  one  terminal  of  the  socket, 
and  C,  D',  and  E'  to  the  other  ter- 
minal of  the  socket.  Electrical  con- 
nection is  made  to  the  winding  by 
means  of  a  plug  and  piece  of  lamp  cord. 
It  is  obvious  that  the  windings  A  and 
D  will  be  connected  as  soon  as  the 
plug  is  screwed  into  the  socket,  if  the 
circuit  is  closed  at  all  other  points, 
and  the  windings  B  and  C,  and  E  and 
F  are  controlled  by  the  right  and  left- 
hand  snap  switches,  respectively. 
Make  sure  all  the  connections  are  prop- 
erly insulated,  and  that  there  is  little 
chance  of  a  short  circuit  occurring. 

After  the  socket  and  snap  switches 
have  been  connected  to  the  windings, 
two  more  thin  disks,  the  same  diameter 
as  the  first,  may  be  fitted  over  the  ends 
and  held  in  place  by  two  units  on  the 
end  of  each  rod,  a  nut  being  placed  on 


408 


each  side  of  the  disks.  A  better  way 
of  mounting  these  disks  would  be  by 
small  machine  screws  that  enter 
threaded  holes  in  the  ends  of  the  rods. 
These  last  disks  are  not  absolutely  nec- 
essary, but  they  will  add  some  to  the 
appearance  o  f 
„/  the    completed 

heater.  Four 
small  ears,  about 
%  in.  s  q  u  a  r  e, 
should  be  cut  on 

X -VJ-      the    outer    edge 

of  the  outside  or 
inside  disks  and 
bent  over  at  right  angles  to  the  main 
portion,  to  be  used  in  mounting  the 
outside  case  of  the  heater. 

Cut  from  a  sheet  of  %-in.  asbestos 
a  piece  just  long  enough  to  fit  between 
the  inside  disks  and  wide  enough  to 
cover  the  three  lower  windings  C,  D, 
and  E.  The  object  of  this  piece  of 
asbestos  is  to  protect  the  surface  upon 
which  the  heater  will  stand  from  ex- 
cessive heat,  since  it  is  to  rest  in  a 
horizontal  position. 

Obtain    a   piece   of   perforated,   thin 


Fie. 3 


sheet  metal,  191/2  i"-  wide  and  long 
enough  to  reach  from  one  outside  disk 
to  the  other.  Bend  this  into  a  cylinder 
and  fasten  it  to  the  lugs  on  the  disks 
by  means  of  small  screws  or  bolts. 

The  legs  may  be  made  of  Vs-in.  strap 
iron,  %  in.  wide,  bent  into  the  form 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  These  pieces  may  be 
attached  to  the  perforated  cylinder, 
before  it  is  mounted  on  the  heater 
proper,  by  means  of  several  small 
bolts.  The  piece  of  asbestos  should  be 
wired  to  the  cylinder  after  the  heater 
is  all  assembled,  so  that  it  will  always 
remain  in  the  lower  part  of  the  cylinder 
and  serve  the  purpose  for  which  it  is 
intended. 

The  heater,  as  descril>ed  above,  is 
constructed  for  a  110-volt  circuit, 
which  is  the  voltage  commonly  used 
in  electric  lighting.  The  total  consump- 
tion of  the  heater  will  be  approxi- 
mately GOO  watts,  each  part  consuming 
about  %  of  the  total,  or  200  watts.  If 
it  is  desired  to  wind  the  heater  for  a 
220-volt  circuit,  25  ft.  of  No.  29  gauge 
"Climax"  resistance  wire  should  be 
used  on  each  tube. 


A   Molding-Sawing   Block   Used  on  a 
Bench 

Having  occasion  to  saw  some  short 
pieces  of  molding,  I  experienced  con- 
siderable    trouble     in     holding     them 


A   Block   for    Holding   Molding, 

or  Strips  of  Wood,  While 
Sawing  Small  Pieces  from  Them 


without  a  vise  until  I  made  a  block, 
as  shown  in  the  sketch.  This  answered 
the  purpose  as  well  as  a  vise.  The 
block  is  not  fastened  in  any  manner, 
but  is  simply  pushed  against  the  edge 
of  the  bench  or  table  and  held  with  the 
hand.  It  should  be  about  9  in.  wide 
and  1  ft.  long,  with  strips  2  in.  thick 
at  each  edge. — Contributed  by  W.  F. 
Brodnax,  Jr.,  Bethlehem,  Pa. 


Pipe  Caps  Used  as  Castings  for  Engine 
Pistons 

Desiring  to  make  a  small  piston  for 
a  model  engine  and  not  caring  to  make 
a  pattern  and  send  it  away  to  have  a 
casting  made,  I  thought  of  using  or- 
dinary pipe  caps,  these  being  both  in- 
expensive and  of  a  quality  adapted  to 
machining. 

The  cylinder  bore  was  V^  in.  in 
diameter,  so  I  secured  a  standard  pipe 
cap  for  li/4-in.  pipe  which  gave  an 
outside  diameter  of  about  1%  in.  The 
cap,  not  having  sufficient  depth  for 
holding  in  a  chuck,  was  screwed  on 
a  short  piece  of  pipe  and  then  trued  in 
the  lathe  chuck.  The  outside  surface 
was  turned  to  a  diameter  of  IV2  in-> 
then  removed  from  the  pipe,  reversed 
and  chucked  again,  and  the  threads 
bored  out  to  reduce  the  walls  to  %  in. 
This  made  an  excellent  piston  for  a 
single-acting  engine. — Contributed  by 
Harry  F.  Lowe,  Washington,  D.  C. 


409 


An  Electric  Horn 

A  simple  electric  horn  for  use  on  a 
bicycle,  automobile,  or  for  other  pur- 
poses, can  be  constructed  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1.  The  size  will  of  course  depend 
somewhat  on  the  use  for  which  it  is 
intended,  but  one  with  the  diaphragm 
13/4  in.  in  diameter  and  the  horn  5  in. 
long  and  4  in.  in  diameter,  at  the  large 
end,  will  be  sufficient  for  most  pur- 
poses. This  will  make  the  instrument 
71/0  or  8  in.  in  over-all  length. 

The  horn  proper,  A,  Fig.  1,  is  con- 
structed first.  This  can  be  formed 
from  sheet  brass.  To  lay  out  the  metal 
to  the  desired  size  draw  a  cross  section, 
as  ABCD,  Fig.  2,  then  project  the 
lines  AC  and  BD  until  they  meet  at 
E.  Strike  two  arcs  of  circles  on  the 
brass  sheet,  using  EC  as  radius  for  the 
inner  one  and  EA  for  the  outer. 
Measure  ofif  FG  and  HJ  equal  to  314 
times  DC  and  AB,  respectively,  and 
cut  out  FGJH.  Roll  and  lap  1/4  in. 
at  the  edges  and  solder  the  jomt 
neatly. 

After  smoothing  the  edges  on  the 
ends,  solder  a  very  thin  disk  of  ferro- 
type metal,  B,  Fig.  1,  to  the  small  end 
of  the  horn.  This  is  used  for  the 
diaphragm.  Cut  out  a  ring,  C,  from 
i/i-in.  hard  fiber  and  bevel  it  on  the 
inside  edge  to  fit  the  horn.  Also  make 
a  disk  of  fiber,  D,  having  the  same  out- 
side diameter  as  the  ring  C.  These 
parts  form  the  ends  for  a  brass  cylin- 
der E,  which  is  made  in  two  parts  or 
halves  joined  on  the  lines  shown  in 
Fig.  3.  Fasten  one  of  the  halves.  F, 
Fig.  3,  to  the  fiber  ring  C  and  disk 
D,  Fig.  1.  with  small  screws,  the  other 
half  to  be  put  in  place  after  the  instru- 
ment is  completed  and  adjusted. 

A  small  support,  G,  is  cut  from  fiber 
and  fastened  in  as  shown.  A  pair  of 
magnets  of  about  50  ohms  are  mounted 
on  this  support.  The  parts  from  an 
old  bell  or  buzzer  may  be  used,  which 
consist  of  a  soft-iron  armature,  H,  Fig. 
1,  having  a  strap  of  spring  brass,  J, 
attached  by  soldering  and  pivoted  at 
K,  with  an  adjusting  screw,  L,  to 
set  the  tension.  Another  U-shaped 
spring-brass  strip,   M,  constitutes  the 


current  breaker,  which  has  an  adjust- 
ing screw,  N.  The  points  of  contact 
on  the  current  breaker  should  be  tipped 


F1G.3 

An  Electric  Horn  Operated  in  a  Manner    Similar 
to  an  Electric  Bell  on  a  Battery  Circuit 

with  platinum.  A  piece  of  brass  wire, 
(),  is  soldered  to  the  diaphragm  disk  B 
and  the  soft-iron  armature  H,  to  con- 
nect them  solidly.  The  tone  of  the 
horn  can  be  adjusted  with  the  screws 
L  and  N.  The  faster  the  armature 
vibrates,  the  higher  the  tone,  and  vice 
versa.  The  connections  are  the  same 
as  for  an  electric  bell. — Contributed  by 
James  P.  Lewis,  Golden,  Colo. 


Combination  Meat  Saw  and  Knife 

A  very  handy  combination  knife 
and  meat  saw  can  be  made  of  an  old 
discarded  saw  blade.  The  blade  is  cut 
on  a  line  parallel  with  the  toothed 
edge,  allowing  enough  material  to 
make  a  good-sized  blade,  then  the 
straight  part  is  ground  to  a  knife  edge 
and  a  wood  handle  attached  at  one  end. 
The  handle  is  made  in  halves,  placed 
one  on  each  side  of  the  blade,  and  riv- 


Tlie  Blade  of  the  Knife  is  Cut  from  the  Toothed  Sids 
of  a  Discarded  Saw  Blade 

eted  together,  then  the  projecting 
metal  is  ground  oft"  to  the  shape  of  the 
handle.— Contributed  by  A.  C.  Westby, 
Porter,  Minn. 


410 


Clamp  Used  as  a  Vise 

A  carpenter's  wood  clamp  fastened 
to  the  edge  of  a  bench,  as  shown  in 
the  sketch,  makes  a  good  substitute  for 


The  Clamp  Attached  to  a  Bench  Top  will  Serve 
the  Purpose  of  a  Vise  in  Many  Instances 

a  vise  for  many  kinds  of  light  work. 
If  the  clamp  is  located  over  or  in  front 
of  the  bench  post,  holes  must  be  bored 
in  the  latter  to  admit  the  ends  of  the 
clamp  screws.  A  hole  is  bored  through 
the  shoulder  screw  and  a  handle  at- 
tached as  shown.- — Contributed  by  H. 
W.  J.    Langletz,   Harrisburg,   Pa. 


Wire  Expansion  Meter 

When  there  is  a  current  of  electric- 
ity in  an  electrical  conductor  a  certain 
amount  of  heat  is  generated  due  to  the 
opposition  or  resistance  of  the  con- 
ductor to  the  free  passage  of  the 
electricity  through  it.  The  heat  thus 
generated  causes  a  change  in  the 
temperature  of  the  conductor  and  as  a 
result  there  will  be  a  change  in  its 
length,  it  contracting  with  a  decrease 
in  temperature  and  expanding  with  an 
increase  in  temperature.    The  tempera- 


Meter  for  Measuring  the  Expansion  of  Metal  Wires 
Which  are  Heated  by  Electricity 

ture  of  the  conductor  will  change  when 
the  current  in  it  changes,  and  hence 
its  length  will  change,  and  it  will  reach 
a  constant  temperature  or  a  constant 
length  when  the  current  in  it  is  con- 
stant in  value  and  the  rate  at  which  it 


is  giving  off  heat  is  exactly  equal  to 
the  rate  at  which  heat  is  being  gener- 
ated in  it. 

The  fact  that  there  is  an  actual 
change  in  the  length  of  the  conductor 
due  to  a  change  in  current  in  it  consti- 
tutes the  fundamental  principle  of  the 
following  simple  instrument. 

The  parts  needed  in  its  construction 
are  as  follows :  An  old  safety-razor 
blade;  one  8-in.  hatpin;  two  medium- 
size  nails;  a  short  piece  of  German- 
silver  wire ;  a  small  piece  of  sealing 
wax ;  a  i/ii-i'i-  board  for  the  base, 
approximately  31/2  in.  by  10  in.,  and  a 
small  piece  of  thin  sheet  brass. 
Remove  the  head  from  the  hatpin  and 
fasten  the  blunt  end  in  the  center  of 
the  safety-razor  blade  A  with  a  piece  of 
sealing  wax  so  that  the  pin  B  is  per- 
pendicular to  the  blade  as  shown. 
Now  drive  the  two  nails  into  the  board 
C,  so  that  they  are  about  V^  in.  from 
the  edges  and  li/o  in.  from  the  end. 
Fasten  the  piece  of  German-silver  wire 
D  to  these  nails  as  shown.  The  size 
of  this  wire  will  depend  upon  the  value 
of  the  current  to  be  measured.  Make  a 
small  hook,  E,  from  a  short  piece  of 
rather  stiff  wire  and  fasten  it  to  the 
hatpin  about  1  in.  from  the  razor  blade. 
The  length  of  this  hook  should  be  such 
that  the  pointed  end  of  the  hatpin  will 
be  at  the  top  of  the  scale  F  when  there 
is  no  current  in  the  wire,  D.  The 
scale  F  is  made  by  bending  the  piece 
of  sheet  brass  so  as  to  form  a  right 
angle  and  fastening  it  to  the  base.  A 
piece  of  thin  cardboard  can  be  mounted 
upon  the  surface  of  the  vertical  portion 
of  the  piece  of  brass  and  a  suitable 
scale  inked  upon  it.  The  instrument 
is  now  complete  with  the  exception  of 
two  binding  posts,  not  shown  in  the 
sketch,  that  may  be  mounted  at  con- 
venient points  on  the  base  and  con- 
nected to  the  ends  of  the  German-silver 
wire,  thus  serving  as  terminals  for  the 
instrument. 

The  completed  instrument  can  be 
calibrated  by  connecting  it  in  series 
with  another  instrument  whose  calibra- 
tion is  known  and  marking  the  position 
of  the  pointer  on  the  scale  for  different 
values  of  current. 


411 


How  to   Make  a   Fire   and   Burglar   Alarm 


A  very  serviceable  fire  and  burglar 
alarm  may  be  installed  by  anyone  who 
can  work  with  car]5enters'  tools  and 
who  has  an  elementary  knowledge  of 
electricity.  Fire  and  burglar  alarms 
are  divided  into  two  general  types, 
called  "open  circuit"  and  "closed  cir- 
cuit," respectively. 

In  the  open-circuit  type  of  alarm  all 
the  windows,  doors,  and  places  to  be 
protected  are  equipped  with  electrical 
alarm  springs  which  are  in  circuit 
with  an  ordinary  vibrating  bell  and 
battery,  and  these  alarm  springs  are 
all  normally  open.  When  a  win- 
dow or  door  is  disturbed  or  moved 
more  than  a  predetermined  amount, 
the  bell  circuit  is  closed  and  the  alarm 
sounded.  The  arrangement  of  such  an 
alarm  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  A  switch, 
A,  is  placed  in  circuit  so  that  the  alarm 
may  be  disconnected  during  the  day 
and  the  opening  and  closing  of  doors 
and  windows  will  not  operate  the  bell. 
It  is  best  not  to  place  a  switch  in  the 
fire-alarm  circuit  as  this  circuit  should 
be  in  an  operating  condition  at  all 
times. 

The  alarm  switch  controlled  by  the 
window  consists  of  a  narrow  metal 
plate,  B,  and  a  spring,  C,  mounted  in 
a  recess  cut  in  the  side  of  the  window 
frame.  The  spring  C  is  bent  into 
such  a  form  that  its  upper  end  is  forced 
into  contact  with  the  plate  B,  when  the 
window  is  raised  past  the  outwardly 
projecting  part  of  the  spring  C,  and 
the  bell  circuit  is  thus  closed.  The 
position  of  the  alarm  switch  can  be 
adjusted  so  that  the  window  may  be 
opened  a  sufficient  distance  to  permit 
the  necessary  ventilation  but  not  allow 
a  burglar  to  enter. 

The  alarm  switch  controlled  by  the 
door  is  arranged  in  a  different  manner. 
In  this  case  the  free  end  of  the  spring 
D  is  held  away  from  contact  with  the 
spring  E  by  the  edge  of  the  door, 
which  forces  the  spring  D  back  into 
the  recess  cut  in  the  door  jamb.  When 
the  door  is  opened  the  spring  E  is 
permitted  to  move  out  and  come  into 
contact   with    the    spring   or   plate    E, 


and  the  alarm  circuit  is  thus  closed. 
The  form  of  the  spring  D  can  be  so 
adjusted  that  the  door  may  be  opened 
some  distance,  but  not  enough   to  al- 


TO  OTHER  WINDOWS 
Fj&.I 

Connections  and  Wiring  Diagram  Showing  an  Open- 
Circuit  Fire  and  Burglar  Alarm 

low  a  person  to  enter,  before  the  alarm 
is  sounded. 

An  alarm  switch,  identical  with  that 
just  described  for  the  door,  should  be 
mounted  in  the  upper  part  of  the  win- 
dow frame  to  take  care  of  the  upper 
sash.  This  alarm  switch  may  be  lo- 
cated low  enough  to  permit  the  window 
to  be  lowered  for  the  purpose  of  venti- 
lation without  sounding  the  alarm. 

The  wires  for  these  various  alarm 
switches  should  be  run  as  near  com- 
pletely concealed  as  possible  to  prevent 
them  being  tampered  with  by  curious 
parties,  who  may  unintentionally  break 
one  of  the  conductors  and  thus  make 
some  part  of  the  system  inoperative. 
It  might  be  best  to  test  the  system 
occasionally,  to  make  sure  all  switches 
are  in  operating  condition. 

The  fire-alarm  switch  consists  of 
two  springs  that  are  held  from  contact 
with  each  other  by  means  of  a  thin 
cord.  This  switch  is  placed  in  the  lo- 
cation to  be  protected,  or  wherever  a 
fire  is  most  likely  to  break  out,  such 
as  over  the  furnace,  in  the  coal  bin, 
etc.  When  the  cord  is  destroyed  the 
springs  make  contact  and  the  alarm  is 
sounded.  A  metal  having  a  very  low 
melting  temperature  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  the  cord,  and  the  alarm  will 


412 


be  sounded  when  the  temperature  ex- 
ceeds a  certain  amount  and  the  actual 
occurrence  of  a  fire  thus  prevented.  In 
some  cases,  the  fire-alarm  switch  may 
be  completely  destroyed  and  the  alarm 


Fig. 2 

Circuit  Equipped  with  Drop  to  Ring  the  Bell 
in  Case  the  Switch  is  Destroyed 

circuit  will  then  be  opened  and  the  bell 
will  cease  ringing.  To  prevent  this 
trouble  a  small  electric  drop  may  be 
placed  in  the  circuit,  the  arrangement 
being  similar  to  that  shown  in  Fig.  3. 
When  the  shutter  of  the  drop  falls,  due 
to  the  closing  of  the  alarm  circuit,  there 
is  a  second  circuit  closed,  and  this 
second  circuit  remains  closed  until  the 
shutter  is  restored  to  its  vertical  or 
normal  position,  or  the  switch,  A,  is 
thrown  to  the  open  point.  The  addi- 
tion of  the  drop  in  the  burglar-alarm 
circuit  may  prove  to  be  an  advantage, 
as  a  burglar  cannot  stop  the  alarm, 
after  he  has  once  closed  any  of  the 
alarm  switches  and  operated  the  drop, 
by  simply  restoring  the  window  or 
door  to  its  original  position. 

In  the  closed-circuit  type,  the  alarm 

ALARM   SWITCHES 


nr^/1 


RELAY 


/  m 


i^~]\ 


CRAvrry  battery 


L0^ 


F16.3 

Wiring  Diagram  Showing  Connections  for  a  Closed- 
Circuit  Burglar  and  Fire  Alarm 

switches  are  all  normally  closed  and 
the  alarm  is  sounded  by  opening  the 
circuit  at  some  point.  The  arrange- 
ment of  such  an  alarm  is  shown  in  Fig. 
3.  The  alarm  switches  are  all  con- 
nected in  series  in  this  case  and  in  cir- 


cuit with  a  closed-circuit  battery  and 
relay  or  drop.  The  drop  or  relay  con- 
trols a  local  circuit  composed  of  an 
open-circuit  battery  and  an  ordinary 
vibrating  bell. 

The  operation  of  a  drop  on  a  closed 
circuit  is  a  little  different  from  its  op- 
eration on  a  normally  open  circuit. 
The  drop  for  the  closed  circuit  must 
be  so  constructed  that  its  latch  holds 
the  shutter  in  a  vertical  position  when 
there  is  a  current  in  the  drop  winding, 
but  allows  it  to  fall  as  soon  as  the  drop 
circuit  is  opened. 

An  ordinary  telegraph  relay  may  be 
used  in  connection  with  the  closed-cir- 
cuit alarm.  The  connections  to  the 
relay  are  such  that  the  bell  circuit 
is  normally  open  and  remains  so  un- 
til the  armature  of  the  relay  is  re- 
leased, which  does  not  occur  until  the 
circuit  of  which  its  winding  is  a  part 
is  opened  at  one  of  the  alarm  springs. 
A  special  switch,  A,  and  resistance, 
B,  are  shown  connected  in  circuit  in 
Fig.  3,  the  object  of  which  is  as  follows  : 
When  it  is  desired  to  disconnect  the 
alarm  springs  or  make  them  inop- 
erative they  must  be  replaced  by  an- 
other circuit  which  will  permit  a  suffi- 
cient current  to  pass  through  the  relay 
winding  at  all  times,  to  prevent  its 
armature  from  being  released  and 
sounding  the  alarm.  The  switch  A 
is  so  constructed  that  either  the  alarm 
switches  or  the  resistance  B  is  in  series 
with  the  battery  and  relay  winding  at 
all  times,  there  being  no  open-circuit 
position  for  the  switch. 

The  fire-alarm  switch  for  this  type 
of  signal  may  be  made  from  a  narrow 
piece  of  tin  foil,  or  some  metal  having 
a  low  melting  temperature,  mounted 
l)etween  two  insulated  clips  that  are 
connected  in  the  alarm  circuit. 

Strips  of  gold  or  silver  foil  may  be 
placed  on  windows  and  connected  in 
the  alarm  circuit,  which  will  give  a 
protection  from  theft  by  breaking  the 
glass. 

Two  or  three  gravity  cells  will  serve 
very  nicely  for  the  closed-circuit  bat- 
tery, while  several  dry  cells  will  do  for 
the  open-circuit  or  bell  battery. 

All  types  of  alarm  switches  can  be 


413 


purchased  at  any  up-to-date  electrical 
supply  house,  but  their  construction 
and  operation  is  so  simple  that  they 
may  be  easily  made  by  almost  anyone. 
A  detailed  description  of  the  construc- 
tion of  the  various  parts  of  the  above 
circuits  will  not  be  given  here,  but  such 
details  can  be  safely  left  to  the  in- 
genuity of  the  person  installing  the 
system. 

It  is  easily  seen  from  the  above  de- 
scription that  a  burglar  who  might  dis- 
cover that  a  house  was  wired  for  alarm 
would  be  greatly  perplexed  to  know 
what  to  do,  for  the  very  thing  that 
would  prevent  one  kind  of  alarm  from 
ringing  would  cause  the  other  to  ring. 

Removing  a  Rear  Bicycle  Sprocket 

If  a  bicycle  rider  desires  to  remove 
the  rear  sprocket  for  changing  the 
gear,  or  for  any  other  reason,  and  there 
is  no  large  pipe  wrench  at  hand,  a 
piece  of  tube  or  pipe,  as  shown  in  the 


The  Piece  of  Pipe 

Gives  a  Leverage  Equal  to 

That  of  a  Large  Pipe  Wrench 

sketch,  can  be  used  as  a  lever.  Fasten 
one  end  of  the  chain  in  one  end  of  the 
pipe  with  a  wedge  and  place  the  other 
end  of  the  pipe  on  a  sprocket.  The 
chain  is  then  placed  over  the  sprockets 
and  a  leverage  equal  to  any  pipe 
wrench  is  secured. — Contributed  by 
Jno.  V.  Loeffler,  Evansville,  Ind. 


Hand  Propeller-Wheel  Attachment  for 
a  Rowboat 

The  rear  fork  of  an  old  bicycle  frame, 
w^ith  the  crank  hanger  attached,  and 
the  rear  hub  constitute  the  main  parts 
of  the  propelling  device.  One  of  the 
cranks  is  cut  from  the  hanger  and  a 
bracket  attached  to  the  frame,  as 
shown,  for  making  it  fast  to  the  stern 
of  the  boat.  Two  propeller  blades  are 
bolted  to  the  rear  hub.     A  rudder  is 


fastened  to  the  rear  tube  of  the  frame 
with  hooks  and  eyes  so  that  it  can  be 
turned  with   a   handle   at  the  top,  or 


The    Rear    Fork    of   a    Bicycle    with    Its    P.  rts 
Constitutes  the  Main  Propeller  Attachment 

with  ropes  run  to  a  wheel.  The  illus- 
tration shows  the  connection  of  the 
device  to  a  boat. — Contributed  by 
Berge  Lion,  Fresno,  Cal. 


An  Attached  Back  for  a  Photographic 
Printing  Frame 

In  using  the  ordinary  photographic 
printing  frame  with  a  spring-pressure 
back,    the   back    must   be   entirely   re- 
moved from  the  frame  to 
put  in  the  paper,  and  as 
this  operation  is  carried 
on    in    a    dim   light,   the 
)ack    is    often    mislaid, 
causing   no   little   incon- 
venience and  delay.     To 
do    awav    with    this   an- 

f0> 


The  Back,  being  Hinged  to  the  Frame, 
Prevents  It  from  being  Mislaid 

noyance,  I  placed  at  one  end  of  the 
frame,  as  shown  in  the  sketch,  a  second 
hinge  made  of  cloth  or  any  pliable  ma- 
terial. When  the  pressure  springs  are 
released,  the  back  swings  down  on  this 
auxiliary  hinge,  and  after  changing  the 
papers,  it  is  instantly  closed  by  a  slight 
movement  of  the  hand,  making  it  very 
rapid  and  easy  to  use. — Contributed 
by  Thos.  L.  Parker,  Wibaux,  Mont. 


414 


Repairing  a  Worn  Stop  Cock 

The  plug  of  a  worn  stop  cock,  or  one 
that  has  been  reground,  of  the  type 
shown   in  the  illustration  will  project 


Removing  a  Portion  of  the  Plug  and  Shortening  the 

Screw  Allows  the  Parts  to  be  Drawn 

Tightly  Together 

beyond  the  bottom  so  that  the  ring,  or 
washer,  and  screw  will  not  draw  it 
tightly  into  place. 

To  remedy  this  trouble,  file  off  a 
portion  of  the  plug  on  the  line  AA  and 
also  file  off  a  sufficient  amount  of  the 
screw  on  the  line  BB.  When  the  plug 
is  replaced  and  the  washer  and  screw 
drawn  up,  the  stop  cock  will  be  as 
good  as  a  new  one. — Contributed  by 
James  M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 

Tool  Holders  Made  of  Brass  Clips 

Hangers  to  grip  tool  handles  can  be 
easily  formed  of  sheet  metal  in  any 
desired  material.  The  clips  are  shaped 
as    shown   at   A   in   the    sketch.     Any 


The  Clips  can  be  Set  So  That  They  will  Grip 
Any  Size  Tool  Handle 

number  of  the  clips  may  be  fastened 
with  screws  to  a  wood  crosspiece  or  a 
wall  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  open- 
ings into  which  the  handles  of  the  tools 
are  pressed.  Before  fastening  the  clips 
they  should  be  spaced  for  the  widths 
of  the  handles. — Contributed  by  F.  H. 
Tillotson,  Sycamore,  111. 


touched  lightly  with  ammonia  water, 
which  can  be  purchased  at  any  drug 
store.  This  will  leave  a  slight  blur, 
which  can  be  removed  by  rubbing  with 
French  chalk  on  the  wrong  side.  The 
chalk  is  cheap  and  can  be  procured  with 
the  ammonia  water.  Do  not  forget  the 
blotting  paper,  as  it  keeps  the  solution 
from  forming  a  ring  around  the  spot. 


Removing  Perspiration  Stains  from 
Delicate  Cloth 

Lay  the  stain  in  the  cloth  over  some 
blotting  paper,  and  sponge  the  cloth 
with  a  grain-alcohol  and  ether  solution, 
which  should  be  made  by  mixing  equal 
portions  of  each.  The  sponging  should 
be  quite  vigorous  and  kept  up  until  the 
cloth  is  dry,  then  the  spot  should  be 


Buttonhole  Cutter 

If  the  buttonhole  scissors  are  mis- 
laid or  there  are  none  at  hand,  the 
holes  may  be  cut  in  the  manner  shown 
in  the  sketch.  Place  a  piece  of  wood, 
having  a  width  equal  to  the  length  of 
the  buttonhole,  on  the  table  and  lay  the 
cloth  over  it  in  the  line  where  the  holes 
are  required,  then  draw  a  sharp  knife 


Sharp  Knife  Drawn  across  the  Cloth  Laid  over  a 
Piece  of  Wood  Cuts  the  Holes 

across  the  cloth  on  the  wood  where  the 
holes  are  marked.  This  will  cut  the 
cloth  neatly  and  accurately. — Contrib- 
uted by  A.  S.  Thomas,  Gordon,  Can. 


Filing  Small  Rods  in  a  Lathe 

Reducing  the  diameter  of  a  small  rod 
l)y  filing  while  it  is  turning  in  a  lathe 
is  a  difficult  thing  to  do,  as  the  pressure 
of  the  file  on  one  side  bends  the  rod. 
The  filing  may  be  easily  accomplished 
by  using  two  files,  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  In  this  manner  almost  any 
amount  of  pressure  can  be  applied  by 


The  Pressure  of  One  File  Against  the  Other  Prevents 
the  Rod  from  Bending 

squeezing  the  files  together  without 
danger  of  bending  the  rod. — Contrib- 
uted by  J.  F.  ThoU,  Detroit,  Mich. 

CYoung  sleepwalkers  may  be  cured  if 
watched  and  given  a  good  switching 
until  they  are  wide  awake. 


415 


A    D'Arsonval    Galvanometer 


A  galvanometer  in  which  the  mov- 
ing part  of  the  instrument  is  a  perma- 
nent magnet  controlled  by  the  action 
of  the  earth's  magnetic  field  and  the 
magnetic  effect  of  a  current  in  a  coil  of 
wire,  that  usually  surrounds  the  mag- 
net, has  the  great  disadvantage  of  hav- 
ing its  indications  changed,  although 
the  current  itself  may  remain  constant, 
due  to  a  change  in  the  strength  of 
the  magnetic  field  in  which  the  instru- 
ment operates.  The  operation  of  in- 
struments of  the  above  type  is  satis- 
factory only  in  localities  where  there 
is  a  practically  constant  magnetic  field 
for  them  to  operate  in,  which  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  have,  due  to  the 
presence  of  permanent  and  electric 
magnets  and  magnetic  materials  such 
as  iron  and  steel. 

An  instrument  constructed  as  fol- 
lows will  not  have  the  above  disadvan- 
tage and  its  operation  will  be  a  great 
deal  more  satisfactory,  as  its  indica- 
tions will  be  practically  independent 
of  outside  disturbances.  In  this  in- 
strument, the  moving  part  is  the  coil 
carrying  the  current,  and  it  moves  in 
a  permanent  magnetic  field  so  strong 
that  other  disturbing  magnetic  effects 
can  be  neglected.  The  coil  is  hung  by 
means  of  a  fine  wire  and  the  twist  in 
this  wire  is  the  only  force  acting  to 
bring  the  coil  back  to  its  zero  position, 
after  it  has  been  deflected,  and  main- 
tain it  there. 

The  construction  of  the  magnet  and 
containing  case  for  the  instrument  will 
be  taken  up  first.  Obtain  a  piece  of 
Norway  iron,  1/2  in.  square  and  about 
9  in.  long.  Bend  this  piece  into  the 
form  shown  in  Fig.  1,  and  file  off  the 
inner  edges  until  they  are  parallel  and 
about  %  in-  apart.  Drill  four  Vg-in. 
holes  in  the  ends  of  this  piece,  two  in 
each  end,  as  indicated.  This  piece  of 
iron  is  first  tempered  and  then  mag- 
netized by  placing  it  in  contact  with 
a  powerful  electromagnet.  Cut  a  sec- 
ond piece  from  some  soft  iron  with 
dimensions  corresponding  to  those 
given  in  Fig.  2.     Drill  two  %-in.  holes, 


A  and  B,  in  this  piece  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  This  second  piece  is  mounted 
between   the  poles  of  the  magnet,  as 


I 


tid- 


a 


J 
.1 


The  Permanent  Magnet  and  Its   Brass   Support,  and 
Their  Position  on  the  Base 

follows:  Cut  from  some  gVin.  sheet 
brass  a  piece  similar  to  the  one  shown 
in  Fig.  3.  Drill  the  holes  indicated 
and  thread  those  designated  by  A,  B, 
C,  D,  E,  and  F  to  take  a  Yg-in.  ma- 
chine screw.  Bend  the  upper  end  of 
the  piece  over  at  the  point  indicated 
by  the  dotted  line  until  it  is  perpen- 
dicular to  the  lower  part.  The  center 
of  the  hole  in  the  projecting  part  K, 
when  it  is  bent  over,  should  be  about 
14  in.  from  the  outer  surface  of  the 
main  part  of  the  piece.  The  small 
piece  of  iron  is  then  fastened  to  the 
piece  of  brass  with  two  round-headed 
screws  that  pass  through  the  two  holes 
in  it  and  into  the  holes  A  and  B  in  the 
brass  piece.  The  magnet  is  mounted, 
also  with  small  brass  screws,  so  that 
the  main  part  of  the  magnet  and  the 
piece  of  brass  extend  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  assem- 
bled parts  are  then  mounted  on  a 
wooden  board,  whose  dimensions  are 
given  in  Fig.  1,  with  three  brass  screws 
that  pass  through  the  holes  G,  H,  and 
J,  as  shown. 


416 


The  moving  coil  of  the  galvanom- 
eter is  constructed  as  follows :  Cut 
from  some  %-in.  pine  a  piece  IVs  in- 
long  and  %  in.  wide.     Cut  two  other 


Upper  and  Lower  Connections  to  the  Coil  and 
Supports,  and  tlie  Supports  for  Suspension 


pieces  whose  dimensions,  except  their 
thickness,  are  14  in-  larger  than  the 
first  piece.  Then  fasten  these  two 
pieces  to  the  sides  of  the  first,  with 
three  or  four  small  screws  through 
each  of  them,  thus  forming  a  small 
spool.  Saw  about  16  slots  with  a  very 
fine  saw  in  the  edges  of  the  projecting 
pieces  and  a  short  way  into  the  edge  of 
the  center  piece.  Wind  on  this  spool 
about  300  turns  of  No.  38  gauge  silk- 
covered  copper  wire.  Start  with  the 
terminal  of  the  wire  in  the  center  of 
one  end  of  the  spool,  with  a  few  inches 
of  free  wire  for  making  connections, 
and  end  up  with  the  terminal  in  the 
center  of  the  opposite  end  of  the  spool. 
A  small  thread  is  then  passed  through 
the  slots  under  the  coil  and  tied,  thus 
serving  to  hold  the  various  turns  of 
wire  together  when  the  coil  is  removed 
from  the  form.  The  coil  should  be 
given  a  coat  of  shellac  as  soon  as  it  is 
removed  from  the  form. 

Two  pieces  must  now  be  attached  to 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  coil  to  be 
used  in  making  electrical  connections 
and  suspending  the  coil.  Cut  from 
some  very  thin  sheet  brass  two  pieces 
whose  dimensions  correspond  to  those 
given  in  Figs.  4  and  5.  Drill  a  small 
hole  in  the  center  of  each  of  these 
pieces.  Bend  the  lower  part  of  each 
piece  over  at  the  dotted  lines  L  until 
it  is  perpendicular  to  the  main  por- 
tion of  the  piece.  The  bent-over  por- 
tions of  these  two  pieces  are  then  fas- 
tened to  the  ends  of  the  coil  with  some 
fine  thread,  making  sure  that  they  are 
in  the  center  of  the  ends  before  they 


are  fastened.  The  terminals  of  the 
coil  are  now  soldered  to  these  pieces. 
It  would  be  best  to  place  a  sheet  or 
two  of  thin  paper  between  the  brass 
pieces  and  the  coil,  to  prevent  any  part 
of  the  coil,  except  the  ends,  from  com- 
ing into  contact  with  the  brass  pieces. 
Obtain  a  small  piece  of  thin  mirror 
and  mount  it  with  some  glue,  as  shown 
by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  4. 

The  upper  support  for  the  suspen- 
sion is  shown  in  Fig.  6  and  consists  of 
a  %-in.  threaded  screw.  A,  that  passes 
through  the  hole  in  the  part  K,  Fig  3, 
and  is  provided  with  two  lock  nuts, 
B.  The  lower  end  of  this  screw 
should  be  slotted  a  short  distance,  and 
a  small  screw  put  through  it,  perpen- 
dicular to  the  slot,  so  that  a  wire  can 
be  easily  clamped  in  the  slot  by  turn- 
ing up  the  screw.  Next,  take  a  piece 
of  a's'iii-  brass,  as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  and 
bend  it  at  the  dotted  line  A  until  it 
forms  a  right  angle.  The  hole  B 
should  be  threaded  to  take  a  %-in. 
screw.  The  holes  C  and  D  are  for 
mounting  the  piece  on  the  back  of  the 
instrument.  Slot  the  end  of  a  %-in. 
screw,  about  V2  i'l-  long,  and  put  a 
screw  through  the  end  as  for  the  upper 
support  for  the  suspension.  This 
piece  is  mounted  below  the  position 
the  coil  is  to  occupy,  as  shown  by 
M,  Fig.  1. 

A  case  should  be  made  for  the  gal- 
vanometer 
whose  inside  di- 
mensions corre- 
spond to  those 
of  the  piece  N. 
Fig.  1 ,  and 
whose  depth  is 
about  %  in. 
more  than  the 
thickness  of  that 
piece.  Four 
pieces  of  wood 
can    be    fastened  """^^ 

in  the  corners  that  will  allow  the  case 
to  slip  just  far  enough  on  the  piece  N 
to  make  the  edge  of  the  case  and  the 
back  surface  of  the  piece  N  flush.  Cut 
an  opening  in  the  front  of  this  case, 
about  2  in.  long  and  1  in.  wide,  in  such 
a  place  that  the  center  of  the  opening 


417 


is  about  level  with  the  ends  of  the 
magnet.  Fasten,  back  of  this  open- 
ing, a  piece  of  thin  glass  with  four 
small  screws  whose  heads  rest  upon 
the  edge  of  the  glass.  The  interior 
of  this  case  and  all  the  parts  should 
be  given  a  coat  of  lampblack  mixed 
with  a  little  vinegar.  Two  small  bind- 
ing posts,  O  and  P,  are  mounted  on 
the  upper  end  of  the  piece  N  and  con- 
nected to  the  upper  and  lower  sup- 
ports for  the  suspension  of  the  coil. 

This  galvanometer  will  work  best, 
of  course,  when  it  is  in  an  exactly  ver- 
tical position  and  the  following  simple 
device,  when  attached  to  it,  will  allow 
it  to  assume  this  position  independent 
of  the  level  of  the  surface  its  base  may 
rest  upon.  Cut  from  some  Vs-'m.  brass 
two  pieces,  Y^  in.  wide  and  21/2  in. 
long.  Drill  a  i/4-in.  hole  in  the  center 
of  each  end  of  them,  i/4  in.  from  the 
end,  and  a  V^-in.  hole  through  the  cen- 
ter of  each.  Bend  these  pieces  to  a  %- 
in.  radius.  Cut  from  some  %-in.  hard 
wood  a  block,  ly^  in.  square.  Fasten 
the  two  pieces  of  brass  to  the  wooden 
block  with  i/s-in.  screws,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  8.  One  of  these  pieces  is  fastened 
to  the  upper  end  of  the  piece  N,  Fig.  1, 
so  that  the  galvanometer  will  hang  ver- 
tically. The  other  piece  is  fastened  to 
a  bracket  from  which  the  galvanome- 
ter is  suspended.  A  suitable  bracket 
for  this  purpose  can  be  easily  made. 
When  the  galvanometer  is  hung  in  this 


way,  two  binding  posts  are  mounted  on 
the  bracket,  and  connected  to  the  two 
on  the  galvanometer.  In  this  way  the 
galvanometer  will  not  be  disturbed 
when  making  connections. 

The  suspension  is  made  as  follows : 
Take  a  piece  of  small  copper  wire  and 
roll  it  out  flat.  Solder  one  end  of  a 
piece  of  this  wire  in  the  hole  in  the 
piece  of  brass,  with  the  mirror  mount- 
ed on  it.  Fasten  a  piece  of  the  same 
wire  to  the  lower  brass  piece,  attached 
to  the  coil.  The  upper  piece  of  wire  is 
then  clamped  in  the  end  of  the  screw 
A,  Fig.  6,  so  that  the  coil  hangs  per- 
fectly free  about  the  iron  core.  The 
lower  piece  of  wire  is  bent  around  a 
small  rod  several  times  and  its  end 
fastened  in  the  slot  in  the  lower  screw. 

The  deflection  of  the  instrument  is 
read  by  causing  a  beam  of  light  from  a 
lamp  or  candle  to  be  reflected  from  the 
mirror  to  a  scale  located  in  front  of  the 
instrument.  If  the  light  from  the  lamp 
is  allowed  to  shine  through  a  small  slit 
in  a  piece  of  dark  paper,  there  will  be 
a  streak  of  light  reflected  upon  the 
scale,  instead  of  a  spot. 

To  use  this  instrument  in  measuring 
larger  currents  than  it  will  safely 
carry,  connect  it  in  parallel  with  an- 
other resistance  which  will  carry  the 
larger  part  of  the  total  current.  The 
galvanometer  can  be  calibrated  with 
this  resistance,  which  is  known  as  a 
shunt. 


How    to    Make    Advertising    Lantern 
Slides 

Procure  some  old  discarded  photo- 
graphic films  and  remove  the  gelatin 
coating  by  soaking  them  in  hot  wa- 
ter. When  dry,  write  the  desired 
words  on  the  thin  celluloid  and  place 
it  between  two  pieces  of  glass,  lan- 
tern-slide size,  and  bind  them  as  in 
making  a  lantern   slide. 

With  the  use  of  a  carbon  paper  a 
very  nice  slide  can  be  made  by  writ- 
ing the  words  on  a  typewriter,  and  it 
will  serve  the  purpose  of  an  expensive 
announcement  slide. — Contributed  by 
F.  P.  Dickover,  Atkinson,  Neb. 


Utilizing  Old  Brush  Handles 

The  handle  cut  from  an  old  dusting 
brush,  fitted  with  the  brass  end  of  a 
shotgun  shell, 
makes  a  first- 
class  tool  handle. 
The  handle  is 
cut  oflf  at  A  and 
the  wood  cut 
down  to  fit  tightly  into  the  brass  shell. 
— Contributed  by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


CTincture-of-iodine  stains  may  be  re- 
moved from  clothing  or  the  skin  by 
using  strong  ammonia  water. 


418 


Preserving  Paints  and  Pastes 

White  lead,  thick  shellac,  and  pastes 
that  are  used  occasionally  may  be  pre- 
served by  laying  a  piece  of  leather  over 
the  exposed  surface.  When  these  ma- 
terials are  kept  in  cans,  cut  a  piece  of 
leather  from  the  upper  of  a  heavy  boot 
of  such  a  size  that  it  will  drop  freely 
into  the  container.  Form  a  handle  on 
the  leather  disk  by  driving  a  nail 
through  its  center  from  the  under  side. 
Press  the  disk  down  smoothly  over  the 
surface  of  the  contents  and  a  thin  film 
of  oil  will  soon  form  over  the  disk, 
effectually  excluding  the  air.  A  loose 
cover  is  placed  over  the  container,  to 
keep  out  dust. — Contributed  by  Luther 
Mcknight,  Colorado  City,  Col. 


A  Safety-Match-Box  Holder 

A  holder,  as  well  as  a  tray,  for  safety- 
matches  can  be  made  from  any  ordi- 
nary tobacco  can.     The  metal  on  one 


A  Burner  for  Soldering  Small  Work 

As  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  sol- 
der the  joints  of  fine  wires  on  electrical 
instruments,  and  other  small  work,  I 
found  myself  in 
need  of  a  blow- 
pipe that  gave  a 
small  but  very 
hot  and  easily  di- 
rected flame,  was 
automatic  in  its 
operation  and  re- 
quired no  blast. 
I  tried  an  ordinary  acetylene  burner  on 
coal  or  city  gas,  and  found  it  gave  an 
intensely  hot,  nonluminous  flame,  due 
to  the  forced  draft  of  air  through  the 
small  holes.  This  flame  will  melt  sil- 
ver, copper  and,  also,  silver  solder.  Its 
great  advantage  lies  in  the  fact  that  it 
may  be  used  for  sweating  together 
small  articles  rapidly  and  with  great 
neatness.  I  always  keep  this  blowpipe 
burning,  as  the  gas  it  consumes  is  very 
small,  and  the  burner  is  kept  within 
easy  reach  by  using  a  hanger,  as  shown 
in  the  illustration. 

A  single  jet  of  flame  is  obtained  by 
stopping  up  one  of  the  tips,  vvhich  is 
very  useful  in  many  ways.  This  flame 
may  contain  a  small  luminous  spot  on 
some  city  gas,  but  it  does  not  interfere 
with  the  heat.— Contributed  by  Arthur 
Worischek,  New  York  City. 


^ 

1"    : 

«- 

■■i 

,'4"  -I 

The  Match  Box  is  Held  Upright  between   Standards 
Formed  from  the  Tin  of  the  Tobacco  Box 

side  is  cut  as  shown  and  the  pieces 
bent  up  to  form  standards  for  holding 
the  match  box  in  an  upright  position. 
The  openings  left  where  the  metal  was 
raised  are  used  for  dropping  the  burned 
matches  into  the  box.  The  hinged 
cover  is  used  for  emptying  the  tray. — 
Contributed  by  David  B.  Lutz,  E.  St. 
Louis,  111. 


Removing  Ink  Stains  from  Book 
Leaves 

When  the  leaves  of  a  book  are  acci- 
dentally stained  with  ink  it  can  be  re- 
moved quite  readily  by  the  following 
process:  After  removing  as  much  of 
the  ink  as  possible  with  a  camel's-hair 
brush  dipped  in  water,  soak  the  stained 
parts  in  a  solution  of  oxalate  of  pot- 
ash, or  better  still,  oxalic  acid.  This 
will  remove  all  the  ink.  Treat  again 
with  water,  as  before,  so  that  when  it 
dries  out  no  salt  will  appear  on  the 
paper.  This  process  does  not  aiifect 
printer's  ink. — Contributed  by  S.  G. 
Thompson,  Owensboro,  Ky. 


A  Needle-Spray  Nozzle 

To  make  a  needle-spray 
nozzle,  either  insert  a  SS-cali- 
ber  cartridge  in  a  small  tube, 
or  place  a  45-caliber  shell 
over  the  end  of  the  tube  and 
solder  it  in  place.  The  end  is 
perforated  to  make  one  or 
more  small  holes,  as  desired. 


419 


How  to  Make  an  Electrotype  Stamp 


The  method  described  in  the  follow- 
ing produces  a  very  good  metal  stamp 
for  any  name,  initial,  drawing,  etc. 

Procure  a  smooth  and  perfectly  level 
sheet  of  brass  about  Vg  i'l-  thick  and 
about  3  by  4  in.  in  size.  Nickelplate 
the  brass  so  that  the  copper  deposit 
will  not  stick  to  it.  If  a  small  plating 
outfit  is  not  at  hand  the  piece  may  be 
plated  at  a  local  plating  works  for  a 
nominal  price.  Dip  the  plate  in  melted 
paraffin  until  the  coating  is  about  j^ 
in.  thick  and  see  that  no  metal  is  ex- 
posed. Drill  a  hole  in  one  corner  and 
attach  a  wire. 

Draw  the  letters  or  sketch  desired, 
using  a  metal  stylus  having  a  sharp 
point,  taking  care  to  make  the  lines 
scratched  in  the  wax  clean  and  open 
to  the  surface  of  the  metal  (Fig.  1). 

A  large  open-mouthed  bottle  or  glass 
tank  will  be  required  for  the  plating 
solution,  which  is  made  by  dissolving 
copper  sulphate  in  water  until  the  so- 
lution is  saturated  with  the  sulphate 
and  then  adding  a  few  drops  of  sul- 
phuric acid.  Immerse  the  plate  in  the 
solution  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  and  con- 
nect with  the  zinc  pole  of  the  battery. 
Put  a  piece  of  pure  copper  in  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  jar  and  connect 
with  the  carbon  pole  of  the  battery, 
using  care  in  each  case  to  keep  the 
connection  of  the  wire  and  the  upper 
part  of  the  plate  above  the  surface. 
One  or  two  dry  cells  will  be  sufficient. 
If  the  current  is  right,  the  deposit  on 
the  waxed  plate  will  be  a  flesh  pink; 
if  too  strong,  it  will  be  a  dirty  brick 
color  and  the  plate  will  have  to  be 
washed  and  the  current  reduced. 
When   the  desired   thickness   of   metal 


is  deposited,  remove  the  plate  and  pour 
boiling  water  on  the  back.  This  will 
remove  the  thin  copper  shell  and  the 
nickeled  plate  may  be  laid  away  for 
future  use. 

Procure  a  flat  pan  and  after  placing 
the  shell   in  it,  face  down,   sprinkle  a 


Making  the  Copper  Shell 

little  resin  or  soldering  flux  on  the 
back.  Lay  three  or  four  sheets  of  the 
lead  from  tea  packages  on  the  back  of 
the  shell  and  heat  it  over  a  spirit 
lamp  or  on  the  stove  until  the  lead 
melts  and  runs  into  the  crevices  on  the 
back  of  the  copper,  thus  making  it 
solid  and  suitable  for  mounting. 
Mount  as  shown  in  Fig.  3  with  small 
brass  screws  and  after  polishing  the 
surface  to  remove  dirt,  etc.,  the  stamp 
is  ready  for  use. 

An  ordinary  stamp  pad  will  do  for 
inking,  but  the  best  ink  to  use  is 
printer's  slightly  thinned,  as  the  or- 
dinary rubber  stamp  ink  is  not  suit- 
able for  a  metal  stamp. — Contributed 
by  S.  V.  Cooke,  Hamilton,  Ont. 


420 


A  Cover  for  a  Bottle 

If  a  glass  medicine  bottle  is  to  be 
carried  constantly  in  the  pocket,  it  is 
best  to  cover  it  with  leather  or  rubber. 


Pattern    for   Making   a   Bottle    Cover   of    Leather    or 
Rubiaer  for  Bottles  Carried  in  the  Pocket 

The  sketch  shows  how  to  cut  the  pat- 
tern so  that  it  will  tit  a  square  bottle. 
The  bottle  is  placed  on  the  leather,  or 
a  piece  of  paper  as  a  pattern,  and  the 
outlines  marked  upon  it.  The  leather 
or  paper  is  then  folded  over  four  times 
and  cut  out  as  shown.  This  cover 
will  prevent  the  glass  from  being  scat- 
tered in  the  pocket  should  the  bottle 
be  accidentally  broken.  It  always  pro- 
vides a  means  of  distinguishing  it  from 
other  bottles  of  the  same  type  and  size. 
— Contributed  by  James  M.  Kane, 
Doylestown,  Pa. 


Boring  a  Long  Hole 

The  usual  method  of  boring  a  hole 
through  a  piece  of  wood  longer  than 
the  bit  is  to  bore  from  each  end. 
To  make  the  hole 
straight  by  this 
method,  split  the 
wood  or  saw  it  in 
halves,  then  make  a 
knife  kerf  in  both 
pieces  on  a  center 
line  of  the  hole  and 
glue  the  pieces  together.  The  spur  of 
the  bit  will  follow  the  kerf  from  either 
end,  and  the  result  will  be  a  meeting 
of  the  holes,  almost  perfectly  in  the 
center.  —  Contributed  by  Ernest  J. 
Dickert,  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 


Covering  for  a  Gas-Stove  Top 

While  frying  or  cooking  on  a  gas 
stove  the  grease  will  spatter  over  the 
top  and  make  the  cleaning  rather  diffi- 
cult, especially  where  there  are  many 
crevices.  A  simple  method  of  avoiding 
this  trouble  is  to  place  a  paper  over 
the  top  of  the  stove,  with  round  holes 
cut  out  for  each  burner  a  little  larger 
than  the  pots  and  pans  used  in  the 
cooking.  This  will  keep  the  stove 
very  clean  with  a  minimum  of  bother. 
A  paper  cut  to  fit  the  under  pan  will 
keep  that  part  clean. — Contributed  by 
S.  F.  Warner,  East  Orange,  N.  J. 


Homemade  Skis 

Not  having  a  bent  board  suitable  for 
a  pair  of  skis,  I  proceeded  to  make  the 
skis  in  the  following  manner:  A 
cheese  box  was  procured  and  two 
pieces  cut  out  of  the  side,  each  15  in. 
long  and  3  in.  wide.  These  were  used 
for  the  upturned  ends  and  two  boards. 


The  Curved  Part  of  the  Runner 
IS  Made  from  Pieces  Cut 
Out    of    a    Round 
Cheese    Box 


G  ft.  long  and  3  in.  wide,  served  as  the 
runners.  A  notch,  4  in.  long  and  Ys  in. 
deep,  was  cut  in  one  end  of  each  board 
to  receive  one  end  of  the  thin  curved 
pieces  cut  from  the  cheese  box,  which 
were  fastened  with  screws.  The  upper 
end  of  each  thin  piece  was  cut  to  a 
point. 

A  piece  for  the  foot,  10  in.  long  and 
3  in.  wide,  with  a  notch  1  in.  wide  and 
1/4  in.  deep,  was  fastened  in  the  center 
of  the  runner.  A  strap  is  run  through 
the  notch  for  holding  the  ski  to  the 
foot. — Contributed  by  Henry  Meuse, 
Reading:   Mass. 


GTo  remove  iron  rust  or  ink  stains 
from  cloth,  use  a  warm  solution  of 
oxalic  acid  with  a  few  crystals  of  citric 
acid  added.  Repeat  the  washings  until 
the  stain  is  removed. 


421 


How   to   Make   a  Dry   Cell 


The  containing  vessel  for  the  cell 
should  be  made  from  sheet  zinc.  It 
should  be  cylindrical  in  form,  approxi- 
mately 2V2  in.  in  diameter  and  6  in. 
long.  This  vessel  is  to  form  the  nega- 
tive terminal  of  the  cell  and  a  suitable 
connecting  device,  similar  to  the  one 
shown  in  the  sketch,  should  be  pro- 
vided and  securely  fastened  to  the 
upper  edge  of  the  vessel.  The  vessel 
should  be  lined  with  some  heavy  blot- 
ting paper,  both  sides  and  bottom. 

Place  into  a  glass  jar  a  small  quan- 
tity of  chloride-of-zinc  crystals,  and 
pour  over  them  1/2  pt.  of  distilled  water. 
Allow  the  crystals  to  dissolve  at  least 
one-half  hour.  If  the  crystals  all  dis- 
solve, add  more  until  some  remain  in 
the  bottom  of  the  jar,  or  until  the  liquid 
is  saturated.  Pour  off  the  solution  and 
dilute  it  by  adding  an  equal  part  of 
distilled  water.  Add  to  this  solution 
sal  ammoniac,  in  the  proportion  of  1  lb. 
of  sal  ammoniac  to  every  3  qt.  of 
liquid.  Fill  the  dry-cell  vessel  with 
this  solution  and  allow  it  to  remain  un- 
til the  blotting  paper  is  completely 
saturated. 

Obtain  a  good  size  electric-light  car- 
bon, about  %  in.  in  diameter,  and  file 
one  end  down  as  shown.  Drill  a  hole 
through  the  carbon  and  mount  a  ter- 
minal. 

Make  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of 
finely  powdered  carbon  and  manganese 
dioxide  of  sufficient  amount  to  almost 
fill  the  vessel.  Add  to  this  mixture 
some  of  the  solution  and  thoroughly 
mix  them.  Continue  adding  solution 
until  a  thick  paste  is  formed. 

Pour  the  solution  out  of  the  vessel 
and  allow  the  latter  to  drain  for  a  few 
minutes  in  an  inverted  position.  Place 
the  carbon  rod  in  the  center  of  the  ves- 
sel and  pack  the  paste  down  around 
it,  being  careful  not  to  move  the  car- 
bon rod  from  its  central  position.  The 
vessel  should  be  filled  with  the  paste 
to  within  about  %  in.  of  the  top.  The 
lower  end  of  the  carbon  rod  should  not 
be  nearer  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  than 
%  in.     Over  the  top  of  the  paste  place 


a  mixture  of  equal  parts  sand  and  fine 
sawdust  and  then,  over  this,  a  layer 
of  pitch,  which  acts  as  a  seal  for  the 

cell.     A  layer  of  blotting  paper  should 


/  SEALING 
jJjTJl   COMPOUND 


PASTE 


Cross  Section    through   the  Cell,  Showing  the 
Construction  and  Location  of  the  Parts 

be  placed  between  the  sand-sawdust 
mixture  and  the  carbon-manganese 
mixture.  The  side  lining  of  the  vessel 
should  be  turned  in  before  the  sand- 
sawdust  mixture  is  placed  in  the  top  of 
the  cell.  The  outside  of  the  cell 
should  be  covered  with  some  heavy 
pasteboard,  which  will  serve  to  insu- 
late the  negative  terminal  from  the 
surface  upon  which  the  cell  rests. 

A  Hose-Nozzle  Handle 

A  handle  for  a  garden-hose  nozzle 
is  easily  made  of  a  piece  of  wire  and 
the  wooden  part  of  a  package  carrier. 
The  wire  is  bent  to  receive  the  hose 
at  A,  and,  after  the  handle  is  slipped 
on,  the  other  end  is  formed  to  fit 
tightly    over   the    brass    nozzle    at    B. 


The   Handle  is    Made  of  a  Piece  of 
AVire  and   a    Package  Grip 


The  hose  nozzle  can  be  easily  carried 
with  the  handle,  which  will  keep  the 
hand  dry. — Contributed  by  F.  G.  Mar- 
bach,   Cleveland,  O. 


422 


Guide  for  Cutting  Mortises 

After  spending  considerable  time  in 
cutting  one  mortise  in  a  piece  to  make 
the  settee  de- 
scribed in  a  re- 
cent issue  of 
Popular  Mechan- 
ics Magazine,  I 
devised  the  plan 
shown  in  the 
sketch  which  en- 
abled me  to  cut 
all  the  mortises 
required  in  the 
time  that  I  cut 
one  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner. 
Two  metal 
plates,  one  of 
which  is  shown 
in  the  sketch,  having  a  perfectly 
straight  edge,  are  clamped  on  the  piece 
with  the  straight  edge  on  the  line  of  the 
mortise.  A  hacksaw  is  applied  through 
holes  bored  at  the  ends  and  a  cut  sawed 
along  against  the  metal  edges. — Con- 
tributed by  George  Gluck,  Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania. 


Insect-Proof  Poultry  Roost 

To  protect  the  poultry  from  mites 
and  other  insects  while  roosting,  I  con- 
structed a  roost  hanger,  as  shown,  with 
oil  cups  made  of 
empty  shoe-pol- 
ish cans.  The 
cover  of  the  box 
was  nailed  to  the 
roost  and  the 
bottom,  for  hold- 
ing the  oil,  on 
top  of  the  roost 
support.  A  large 
nail  was  driven  through  the  support 
from  the  under  side  and  through  the 
center  of  the  can  bottom,  so  that  about 
11/4  in.  projected  above  the  latter. 

The  can  cover  was  perforated  in  the 
center  and  a  hole,  about  y^  in.  deep, 
was  drilled  in  the  roost  so  that  the  end 
of  the  nail  would  easily  slip  into  it. 
The  bottom  of  the  can  was  filled  with 
a  mixture  of  kerosene,  vaseline  and  car- 


bolic acid  and  the  roost  set  in  place. 
Both  ends  of  each  roost  are  fixed  in  the 
same  way.  This  makes  it  impossible 
for  any  insects  to  get  on  the  roost. — 
Contributed  by  Rudolph  Netzeband, 
St.  Louis,  Mo. 


To  Prevent  Shade  Rollers  from 
Unwinding 

Obtain  a  stick  for  the  hem  on  the 
lower  end  of  the  shade  that  is  2  in. 
longer  than  the  shade  is  wide.  Place 
two  small  wood  screws  in  the  window 
casing  below  the  shade  roller  in  such 
a  position  that  they  will  catch  the  ends 
of  the  stick  when  the  shade  is  raised  to 
the  top. — Contributed  by  Harry  E 
Kay,  Ossining,  N.  Y. 


A  Screen  and  Storm-Door  Cushion 

A  good  cushion  that  will  prevent  a 
spring  door  from  slamming  can  be 
made  out  of  material  cut  from  an  old 
rubber  boot  or,  better  still, 
from  an  old  hollow  rubber 
ball.  Three  strips  of  heavy 
rubber,  II/4  in.  long  and  % 
in.  wide,  are  cut  and  each 
fastened  with  two  tacks  so 
that  the  center  will  make  a 
hump,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  One 
cushion  is  fastened  near  the  top,  one 
near  the  bottom,  and  one  in  the  center, 
in  the  rabbet  of  the  door  frame. — Con- 
tributed by  D.  Andrew  McComb, 
Toledo,  O. 


Repairing  a  Coaster  Brake 

Anyone  having  a  bicycle  coaster 
brake  that  is  apparently  useless  because 
it  will  not  brake,  _ 

can  easily  repair 
it  in  the  follow- 
ing manner:  Re- 
move the  inner 
hub  by  unscrew- 
ing the  cones 
and  insert  a 
piece  of  clock 
spring,  about  the 
same  width  as 
the  brake  shell  and  almost  as  long  as 


433 


its  inside  periphery.  Replace  the  parts 
and  the  repair  will  render  the  brake 
quite  as  efficient  as  a  new  one.  The 
spring  serves  as  a  braking  surface  for 
the  expanding  steel  shoes  of  the  brake. 
— Contributed  by  Heber  H.  Clewett, 
Pomona,  Cal. 


Flypaper  Holder 

The  ordinary  method  of  using  sticky 
flypaper  is  quite  annoying,  as  it  can- 
not be  easily  removed  from  anything 
that  may  come  in  contact  with  its 
sticky  surface.  The  best  way  to  avoid 
this  trouble  is  to  make  a  holder  for  the 
paper,  and  one  can  be  constructed  of  a 
piece  of  wire  and  a  metal  cover  taken 
from  a  jelly  glass.  The  wire  is  threaded 
at    one    end    on    which    the    cover    is 


o 


The  Paper,  Held  in  an  Upright  Position,  will    Catch 
More  Flies  Than  If  Placed  Flat 

clamped  between  two  nuts.  The  upper 
end  of  the  wire  is  shaped  into  a  hook 
for  hanging  it  wherever  desired.  The 
paper  is  rolled  with  the  sticky  side 
out  and  tied  with  strings,  then  slipped 
over  the  wire  and  set  into  the  inverted 
cover.  The  cover  prevents  any  of  the 
sticky  substance  from  dripping  onto 
the  floor  and  the  wire  holds  it  from  be- 
ing blown  about  the  room. — Contrib- 
uted by  Percy  de  Romtra,  Cape  May 
Point,  N.  J. 


A  Fish  Rake 

The  fish  rake  can  be  made  in  any 
size,  for  minnows  or  salmon,  but  it  is 
especially  adapted  for  fish  that  run  in 
schools,  like  smelt,  herring  and  min- 
nows. Procure  a  piece  of  wood,  7  ft. 
long,  4  in.  wide  and  %  'i-  thick,  and 
make  a  handle  3  ft.  long  on  one  end. 
Dress  the  other  end  to  an  edge,  rip  ofif 


a  1-in.  strip  and  drill  holes  to  receive 
nails  or  pieces  of  wire  from  the  back, 
through  the  edge,  and  projecting  about 


The  Rake  is  so 

Constructed  That  It  can 

be    Taken    Apart    for    Packing 

4  in.  The  strip  is  then  replaced  and 
fastened  with  screws.  The  handle  can 
be  cut  from  the  blade  and  jointed  by 
using  tubing.  This  makes  it  handy  to 
take  apart  and  pack. — Contributed  by 
L.  W.  Pedrose,  Seattle,  Wash. 


To  Harden  Small  Blocks  of  Wood 

Small  bliicks  of  wood  can  be  hard- 
ened so  that  they  will  not  split  so  easily 
when  small  screws  are  inserted  by  boil- 
ing them  in  olive  oil  for  about  10  min- 
utes. The  olive  oil  can  be  kept  for 
future  use.  If  it  is  desired  to  water- 
proof the  blocks  after  hardening  them, 
they  should  be  placed  in  melted  par- 
affin and  allowed  to  cool  in  the  solution. 
This  gives  the  block  of  wood  a  good 
appearance  and  makes  it  nonabrasive 
and  waterproof. 


Homemade  Clothesline  Reel 

It  is  much  better  to  make  a  small 
reel,  like  the  one  shown,  for  a  clothes- 
line than  to  wind  the  line  on  the  arm, 
the  usual  meth- 
od of  getting  it 
into  shape  for 
putting  away. 

The  reel  con- 
s  i  s  t  s  of  two 
strips  of  wood, 
16  in.  long,  3  in. 
wide  and  y^  in. 
thick.  These  are 
joined     together 

with  two  pieces  of  broom  handle,  al- 
lowing a  space  of  9  in.  between  the 
sides  and  an  extending  handle  of  5  in. 
on  opposite  sides,  as  shown. — Contrib- 
uted by  Bert  Longabaugh,  Davenport, 
Iowa. 


-^l 


424 


Gear-Cutting   Machine 


Perhaps  the  last  thing  that  would  be 
thought  within  range  of  the  amateur 
who  lacks  a  full  equipment  of  machin- 
ery is  the  cutting  of  gear  wheels.  The 
device  shown  in  the  sketch  is  very 
practical,  and,  with  the  most  ordinary 


Fis.l 


Fig.  2 


Details  of  Gear-Cutting  Machine 

assortment  of  iron-working  tools,  will 
serve  to  turn  out  an  accurate  gear. 

No  system  of  supports  is  shown,  as 
they  are  easily  supplied.  A  flat,  square 
board,  B,  as  large  as  can  be  obtained — 
2  ft.  on  a  side  being  the  safest  mini- 
mum— is  used  for  a  dial.  A  sheet  of 
paper  is  pasted  over  the  entire  board 
and  a  large  circle  drawn  on  it.  This 
circle  is  divided  into  as  many  parts  as 
there  are  to  be  teeth  in  the  gear.  A 
depression  is  made  with  a  prick  punch 
at  each  division.  A  shaft,  C,  is  run 
through  the  center,  to  which  an  arm, 
A,  is  firmly  attached.  A  nail,  X,  is 
placed  at  the  end  of  the  arm  so  that 
the  point  can  enter  each  of  the  punch 
marks  on  the  periphery  or  circumfer- 
ence of  the  circle.  A  blank  wheel,  W, 
is  attached  to  the  shaft  C,  in  the  posi- 
tion shown,  and  resting  on  the  iron 
plate  or  strap  F.  A  cutting  tool,  D, 
works  up  and  down  in  a  slot  in  F. 
This  cutter  is  held  away  from  the 
blank  wheel  by  the  spring  S,  and  moved 


up  to  it  by  the  screw  G,  acting 
through  the  sliding  member  H.  A 
stove  bolt  may  be  used  for  G,  with  the 
nut  firmly  fastened  to  the  strap  F. 
The  cutter  is  actuated  with  a  handle 
E,  whose  motion  is  limited  by  the  pegs 
as  shown.  In  Fig.  2  is  shown  a  top 
view  of  the  strap  E,  with  a  cross  sec- 
tion of  the  cutter  and  the  slot  in  which 
it  works. 

The  operation  of  the  mechanism  is  as 
follows :  With  the  blank  wheel  in 
place  set  the  nail  N  in  one  of  the  punch 
marks  and  move  the  handle  E  down- 
ward. This  will  make  a  slight  cut  on 
the  wheel.  Then  give  the  screw  G  a 
turn  or  two,  which  will  make  the  cut- 
ter take  a  deeper  bite,  and  push  the 
handle  down  again.  This  operation  is 
repeated,  screwing  G  constantly 
deeper,  until  it  is  stopped  by  the  lock- 
nut  J,  which  regulates  the  depth  of  the 
cut.  Move  the  nail  N  to  the  next  punch 
mark  and  repeat.  The  operations  are 
very  quickly  performed  and  the  circle 
will  be  closed  almost  before  you 
know  it. 

There  are  several  points  to  be  ob- 
served. The  accuracy  depends  upon 
three  things.  First,  the  slot  through 
which  the  cutter  passes  must  be  tight- 
fitting,  even  at  the  expense  of  working 
hard.  Second,  the  shaft  C  must  fit 
tightly  in  the  holes  made  for  it  through 
B  and  F,  also  the  arm  A  must  be  firmly 
attached,  the  shaft  being  filed  flat  at 
the  point  of  attachment.  The  blank 
wheel  should  be  kej'ed  on  the  shaft  or 
securely  fastened  with  a  setscrew. 
Third,  the  nail  N  must  enter  the  punch 
marks  accurately.  As  the  grinding 
circle  is  so  much  larger  than  the  blank, 
any  error  here  is  greatly  reduced  in 
the  finished  wheel.  Once  in  a  punch 
mark  the  nail  must  not  be  allowed  to 
slip  until  the  tooth  has  been  cut. 

In  practice,  it  will  be  found  better, 
after  each  stroke  of  the  handle,  to  give 
a  quarter  turn  outward  to  the  screw  G, 
thus  avoiding  the  scraping  of  the  tool 
on  the  up  stroke.  The  cutter  can  be 
made  of  any  suitable  steel  with  the  cut- 
ting   point    ground    to   give   whatever 


425 


shape  is  desired  for  the  tooth.  The 
best  shape  for  any  particular  purpose 
can  be  found  by  reference  to  a  book 
on  gears. 

This  cutter  is  adapted,  of  course, 
only  to  the  softer  metals.  For  experi- 
mental purposes  a  blank  cast  in  type 
metal  is  excellent  and  will  last  as  long 
probably  as  required.  The  mechanism 
here  described  will  cut  brass  perfectly 
well  and  a  gear  made  of  this  more  dur- 
able metal  will  answer  for  a  finished 
construction.  Type-metal  blanks  com- 
mend themselves  because  they  are  so 
easily  cast,  any  flame  which  will  melt 
solder  being  sufficient,  and  the  molds, 
of  wood,  plaster  of  Paris  or  any  easily 
worked  material,  being  quickly  con- 
structed.— Contributed  by  C.  W.  Nie- 
man.  New  York  City. 


A  Potato  Peeler 

The  guard  is  made  of  a  piece  of  wire 
about  1  in.  shorter  than  the  blade  of 
an  ordinary  table  knife.  The  ends  of 
the  wire  are  turned  into  a  coil  to  re- 


Guard  Made  of  Wire 

semble  a  coil  spring  with  coils  close 
together.  Allow  enough  wire  to  pro- 
ject on  one  end  to  be  flattened  and 
pointed  for  an  eye  extractor. 

When  this  device  is  placed  on  the 
knife,  the  contrivance  works  on  the 
same  principle  as  a  spokeshave.  The 
first  setting  peels  the  potato  without 
an}'  appreciable  waste,  the  other  setting 
may  be  as  desired  for  cutting  slices. — 
Contributed  by  H.  W.  Ravens,  Seattle, 
Washington. 


An  Easy  Way  to  Develop  Roll  Film 

This  is  simply  a  different  motion  to 
the  tiresome  seesaw  one  usually  em- 
ploys when  films  are  being  developed. 
In  wetting  them  down  previous  to  im- 
mersion in  the  developer,  do  not  keep 
them  in  the  water  long  enough  to  be- 
come limp,  but  remove  them  after  a  few 
quick  dips,  says  Camera  Craft,     They 


will  then  retain  some  of  their  curling 
tendency,  so  that  by  taking  one  end  in 
one  hand  and  gradually  lowering  the 


Developing  Film 

film  into  the  dish  of  developer  and  then 
raising  it  out  of  the  dish,  it  will  be 
found  that  the  film  will  roll  and  unroll 
quite  readily,  much  as  one  would  let 
out  or  wind  in  a  reel.  This  method 
will  result  in  quicker  development,  be- 
cause the  roll  is  nearly  always  im- 
mersed in  developer.  The  method 
necessitates  using  only  one  hand,  mak- 
ing it  possible  to  develop  a  second 
strip  at  the  same  time  with  the  other. 
The  illustration  shows  quite  clearly 
just  how  the  film  will  behave. 


A  Shoe  Hanger 

An  inexpensive  shoe  hanger  can  be 
made  of  a  strip  of  tin,  about  1/2  in-  wide 
and  as  long  as  the  space  will  permit. 
Cut  notches  along  one  edge  and  bend 
the  tin  and  tack  or  screw  it  on  a  strip 


Notched  Metal  Hanger 


of  board  or  to  the  inside  of  the  closet 
door.  The  shoes  are  hung  up  by  the 
heels  with  the  toes  down. — Contributed 
by  C.  R.  Poole,  Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


426 


How  to  Make  a  Small  Vertical  Drill 

A  small  hand  drill  with  a  three-jaw 
chuck  that  will  take  the  smallest  drill 
can  be  purchased 
very  reasonably. 
For  ordinary 
work  these  drills 
do  very  well,  but 
for  comparative- 
ly deep  holes,  or 
when  using  long, 
slender  drills, 
some  sort  of  a 
stand  should  be 
made,  if  for  no 
other  reason,  to 
avoid  breaking 
the  drills,  which 
is  almost  inva- 
riably due  to  the 
side  motion  of 
the  hand.  There 
are  other  rea- 
sons, however, 
for  making  such 
a  stand,  and 
these  lie  in  the  fact  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  drill  by  hand  at  right  angles 
with  the  surface  of  the  metal,  or  to 
hold  such  a  drill  sufficiently  steady  to 
avoid  widening  the  hole  around  the 
top. 

As  each  make  of  hand  drill  will  re- 
quire a  somewhat  different  form  of 
stand,  no  detailed  description  need  be 
given  of  the  one  illustrated.  The  prin- 
cipal point  is  to  have  the  base  and 
standard  securely  set  at  right  angles 
to  each  other,  and  then  provide  a 
smoothlv  sliding  piece  to  which  the 
hand  drill  may  be  clamped.  The  edges 
on  this  slide"  and  the  corresponding 
guides  should  be  planed  off  to  an 
angle  of  45  deg.  One  of  the  guides 
should  be  adjustable,  which  may  be 
arranged  by  elongating  the  screw 
holes  and  placing  small  washers  under 
the  heads  of  the  screws  that  hold  this 
guide  to  the  main  standard. 

A  neat  little  hand  drill,  arranged  in 
this  manner  and  firmly  secured  to  the 
bench,  may  also  be  used  for  finishing 
the  ends  of  small  shafts,  either  flat 
or  pointed,  for  polishing  screw  heads, 


etc.,  to  all  of  which  it  gives  that  work- 
manlike appearance  that  can  only  be 
had  when  things  are  polished  with  a 
true  rotary  motion. — Contri1:)Uted  by 
John  D.  Adams,  Phoenix,  Ariz. 


Decorating  Candles 

Candles  can  be  easily  decorated  by 
the  following  method :  The  designs 
can  be  selected  from  paper  prints 
which  are  tightly  wrapped  around  the 
candle  with  the  design  in  contact  with 
the  wax.  Strike  a  match  and  play  the 
flame  over  the  back  of  the  paper. 
Allow  time  enough  for  the  melted  wax 
to  harden  and  then  remove  the  paper. 
The  print  will  be  transferred  to  the 
wax. 

Select  designs  that  are  not  larger 
than  the  circumference  of  the  candle. 
A  good  impression  of  ink  on  thin  pa- 
per works  best. — Contributed  by  J.  J. 
I-volar,  Maywood,  111. 


Homemade    Hacksaw   Frame 

A  home  workshop  not  having  a  com- 
plete set  of  tools  may  be  supplied  in 
many  ways  with  tools  made  by  the 
owner.  The  hacksaw  frame  illustrated 
is  one  of  these.  The  frame  is  made  of 
hard  wood.  The  saw  end  is  inserted  in 
a  slot  sawed  in  the  handle  end,  and  a 
screw  or  small  bolt  holds  it  in  place. 
The  other  end  is  equipped  with  a  bolt 
having  a  sheet-metal  head,  as  shown 
at  A.     The  blade  is  kept  from  turning 


Hacksaw  Frame.  Cut  from  Hard  Wood,  with  Fittings 
Attached  to  Draw  the  Blade  Taut 

by  a  projection  of  the  sheet  metal 
which  fits  in  a  saw  cut  made  in  the 
frame.— Contril)Uted  by  W.  A.  Henry, 
(kdesburg.  111. 


427 


Drill    Press   on   an   Ordinary    Brace 


As  the  greater  part  of  the  energy  re- 
quired for  drilling  metal  by  hand  is 
used  for  feeding  the  drill,  I  made  what 
I  term  a  drill  box  in  which  the  brace 
is  held  perfectly  true  and  pressure  is 
applied  by  a  weight.  The  feed  can 
be  changed  for  the  different  metals 
and  sizes  of  drills,  also  for  drilling  the 
hard  outside  of  castings  and  relieving 
the  drill  for  the  softer  body.  The  con- 
stant feed  will  cause  the  drill  to  turn 
out  a  long  chip,  and  a  number  of  holes 
may  be  drilled  to  a  uniform  depth  by 
using  the  same  feed  and  counting  the 
turns  of  the  brace  handle. 

To  build  the  box,  first  find  the  di- 
mensions of  the  brace,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1 :  the  diameter  of  the  head  A,  the 
clearance  B  from  the  top  of  the  head 
to  14  in.  above  the  top  of  the  handle 
C,  and  the  over-all  length  D  when  the 
longest  drill  is  in  the  brace.  Make  a 
box  having  an  inside  length  equal  to 
the  dimension  D,  plus  whatever  addi- 
tional height  may  be  necessary  for 
the  work.  Make  the  inside  width  twice 
the  distance  C,  plus  6  in.  for  clearance ; 
and  the  inside  depth  the  length  C,  plus 
one-half  of  the  dimension  A,  plus  3  in. 
Use  material  %  in-  thick  and  nail  the 
parts  together  to  form  a  rectangular 
frame.  Cut  a  piece  of  broomstick  as 
long  as  the  dimension  B,  and  two 
pieces  of  wood  as  long  as  the  inside 
width  of  the  box  and  as  wide  as  the 
dimension  B.  Cut  two  pieces  yV  in. 
longer  than  the  dimension  A  and  as 
wide  as  the  length  B.  Nail  these  lat- 
ter pieces  together  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
leaving  a  square  space  in  the  center. 
This  frame  is  to  be  nailed  inside  of  the 
top   of   tee   box  flush   with   the  front, 


but  before  doing  so  lay  it  on  top  of 
the  box  to  determine  where  the  center 
of  the  square  space  will  come,  and 
bore  a  hole,  large  enough  for  the  round 


F1G.2 

The  Weights  Apply  a  Constant  Pressure  to  the 
Drill,  Which  can  be  Easily  Turned 

Stick  cut  from  the  broom  handle  to  slip 
through  easily,  then  nail  the  frame 
on  the  under  side  of  the  top  piece. 

Procure  a  tough  piece  of  wood,  IV^ 
in.  square  and  long  enough  to  project 
2  in.  over  the  right  and  10  in.  over 
the  left  side  of  the  box  top,  and  when 
in  this  position,  locate  the  hole  bored 
for  the  round  stick  and  bore  a  hole  in 
the  square  stick,  Vs  in.  deep,  to  coin- 
cide with  it.  Place  the  head  of  the 
brace  in  the  guide  and  push  it  up  until 
it  touches  the  top  of  the  box  and  block 
it  up  in  this  position,  then  drop  the 
round  stick  through  the  hole  and  rest 
it  on  the  head  of  the  brace.  Place  the 
socket  in  the  lever  over  the  top  of  the 
round  stick.  Make  a  loop,  8  in.  long, 
of  heavy  wire  and  hang  it  over  the 
right  end  of  the  lever  and  mark  the 
box  at  the  lower  end  of  the  loop.  Turn 
in  a  large  screw  V2  in.  below  this  mark 


428 


allowing  it  to  project  enough  to  hook 
the  loop  under  it.  Remove  the  round 
stick  and  put  a  screw  at  the  point  the 
bottom  of  the  loop  reaches  when  the 
lever  is  flat  on  the  top  of  the  box. 
Another  screw  turned  in  between  these 
two  will  be  sufficient  to  hold  the  lever 
in  position.  Different-sized  weights, 
of  from.  5  to  10  lb.,  are  used  on  the 
lever,  but  for  small  drills  the  weight 
of  the  brace  alone  is  sufficient. — Con- 
tributed by  Maurice  Coleman,  W.  Rox- 
bury,  Mass. 


Homemade  Picture-Frame  Miter  Box 

Any  person  wishing  to  make  a  pic- 
ture frame,  or  to  cut  down  an  old  one, 
requires  a  miter  box  for  that  purpose, 


Homemade   Miter   Box    for    Sawing    Frame   Molding 
and  to  Hold  the  Parts  for  Fastening  Together 

so  that  the  molding  may  be  properly 
held  while  sawing  it,  and  also  for  nail- 
ing the  corners  together.  I  made  a 
miter  box,  as  shown,  and  found  it  to 
be  just  the  thing  for  this  purpose.  It 
is  built  on  a  base  similar  to  an  over- 
turned box,  the  saw  guides  being  held 
on  the  ends  of  a  piece,  constructed  as 
shown  at  A.  Holes  are  cut  in  the  top, 
as  shown  at  B,  for  one  of  the  guides 
and  for  the  two  wedges.  Two  pieces, 
C,  are  fastened  with  their  outer  edges 
at  perfectly  right  angles  on  the  top. 

The  frame  parts  are  clamped  against 
the  pieces  on  top  with  the  wedges 
driven  in  between  the  frame  parts  and 
the  brackets  DD.  After  cutting  the 
frame  parts  they  are  tightly  held  in 
place  while  fastening  them,  in  any 
manner  desired. — Contributed  by  A.  S. 
Thomas,  Amherstburg,  Can. 


Tank-Development  Methods   Used  in 
Tray  Development 

If  there  are  a  number  of  plates  to 
be  developed,  place  a  rubber  band, 
about  V's  in.  wide,  around  the  ends  of 
each  plate  and  put  them  together  in  a 
tray.  The  bands  keep  the  plates  apart. 
The  developer  is  made  up  as  for  a 
tank  and  poured  over  the  plates,  then 
another  tray,  or  dark  covering,  is 
placed  over  the  top.  Allow  this  to 
stand,  rocking  the  tray  from  time  to 
time,  the  same  length  of  time  as  is 
required  for  tank  development. — Con- 
tributed by  Earl  R.  Hastings,  Corinth, 
Vermont. 


A  Pushmobile   Racer  for   Ice 

The  pushmobile  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration takes  the  place  of  the  one  with 
rollers  that  is  now  so  popular  with  the 
boys.  The  materials  required,  usually 
found  about  any  home,  consist  of  a 
foot  board,  1  in.  thick,  2^2  in-  wide 
and  2  ft.  long;  two  pieces  of  wood, 
each  Y-i  in.  thick,  2i/^  in.  wide 
and  9  in.  long;  one  steering  post,  1  in. 
thick,  IV2  in.  wide  and  30  in.  long; 
one  handle,  6  in.  long ;  one  small  hinge  ; 
one  carriage  bolt,  %  in.  in  diameter 
and  21/2  in.  long;  two  Vs'''''-  washers;  a 
few  screws,  and  a  pair  of  discarded  ice 
skates. 

One  of  the  %-in.  thick  pieces  is  fas- 
tened solidly  to  one  end  of  the  foot 
board  with  the  ends  flush.  The  other 
piece  is  swiveled  with  the  bolt  at  the 
opposite  or  front  end  of  the  foot  board 
so  that  at  least  one-half  of  the  piece 
projects  beyond  the  end.  The  steer- 
ing post  is  hinged  to  the  projecting 
end.      The  skates  are  fastened  to  the 


Homemade  Pushmobile,  Constructed  the  Same  as  the 
Wheeled  Kind,  with  Runners  for  Snow  and  Ice 

%-in.  pieces  for  runners.  The  man- 
ner of  propelling  the  racer  is  the  same 
as  for  the  pushmobile. — Contributed 
by  W.  E.  Crane,  Cleveland,  O. 


429 


Homemade    Ellipsograph 

By   CHELSEA   CURTIS   FRASER 


An  efficient  ellipsograph  is  the  only- 
device  that  will  make  true  ellipses  of 
various  sizes  quickly,  and  such  a  ma- 
chine is  in  demand  on  some  classes  ot 
work  in  a  drafting  room.  Its  cost, 
however,  is  prohibitive  where  only  few 
ellipses  are  to  be  drawn,  but  a  person 
handy  with  tools  can  make  an  appa- 
ratus that  will  do  the  work  as  well  as 
the   most   expensive   instrument. 

The  completed  ellipsograph,  herein 
described,  will  appear  as  shown  in  Fig. 
1.  It  consists  of  two  main  parts,  the 
base  and  the  arm.  The  former  is  a 
hardwood  piece,  A,  Fig.  2,  to  the  side 
center  of  which  is  attached  another 
hardwood  piece,  B.  This  latter  piece 
may  be  dovetailed  into  A,  but  an  or- 
dinary butt  joint  will  suffice,  as  a  one- 
piece  base,  C,  also  of  hard  wood,  is 
glued  to  the  bottom  surfaces  of  the 
pieces  A  and  B,  thus  securely  holding 
them  together.  Before  gluing,  how- 
ever, care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  the 
piece  B  is  exactly  at  right  angles  with 
the  piece  A.     This  can  be  done  with 


swivel  head.  Sheet  brass  plates,  D  and 
E,  are  cut  from  t^e-in.  stock  and  at- 
tached to  the  top  of  the  piece  A  with 
screws.  The  plates  F  and  G  are  of  the 
same  material  and  fastened  in  a  like 
manner  to  the  upper  surface  of  the 
piece  B.  All  plates  project  slightly 
where  they  touch  the  groove  borders, 
as  shown.  This  is  to  provide  a  bearing 
for  the  projections  on  the  sliding  parts 
against  metal  instead  of  wood.  A  piece 
of  thin  celluloid  or  brass  plate,  K,  is 
inserted  in  the  bottom  side  of  the  base 
C  so  that  the  point  will  be  exactly  in 
line  with  the  center  groove  J,  and  ex- 
tend outward  i/s  i"-  This  point  indi- 
cates the  center  of  all  ellipses  to  be 
drawn.  In  the  bottom  of  the  base  C, 
at  each  end,  drive  an  ordinary  pin  and 
cut  it  off  so  that  a  part  of  it  will  pro- 
ject beyond  the  surface  of  the  wood. 
These  extending  ends  are  pointed  with 
a  file,  and  serve  to  keep  the  instrument 
from  slipping  when  in  use. 

The  arm  L  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.     It  is 
made  of  either  maple  or  birch.    Follow 


.'-y  Fio.l 

Practically  Any  Size  or  Proportion  of 
Ellipse,  from  I14  to  16  In.  Maximum 
Diameter,  can  be  Drawn  with  an 
Instrument  of  This  Size,  and  Larger 
Instruments    will    Work    Equally    Well 


a  try-square.  Dimensions  are  given 
in  Fig  2.  The  same  letters  are  used 
throughout  for  the  same  parts. 

A  iV-in.  groove,  H,  is  cut  out  at  the 
juncture  of  A  and  B.  to  admit  the 
fiange  of  the  minor-axis  swivel  head. 
Another  groove,  J,  is  made  along  the 
longitudinal  center  of  the  piece  B,  to 
receive    the    spine   of   the    major-axis 


D  '-f   '\^^s 

r^    '^ 

^^      A 

c 

"i^^                            /<" 

^^i 

Q 

FIG.2 


the  dimensions  given,  cutting  a  slot 
through  it  longitudinally,  as  shown  at 
M,  narrower  on  the  upper  side  than  on 
the  lower,  the  upper  being  14  in.  wide. 
An  octagon-shaped  piece  of  wood,  N, 
1/2  in.  thick,  is  glued  to  the  end,  to  give 
a  good  seating  for  the  sleeve  O,  which 
is  a  piece  of  14-in.  solid-brass  rod,  2 
in.  long,  drilled  to  receive  closely  the 


430 


pencil  sheatli.  The  latter,  P,  can  be 
made  from  a  section  of  brass  tubing 
such  as  is  used  in  a  bicycle-pump  valve. 
The  upper  end  is  notched  to  receive 
a  rubber  band,  and  an  ordinary  pencil 
can  be  cut  down  to  fit  closely  into  the 
other  end.  The  piece  O  fits  tightly  in 
a  hole  bored  through  N  and  L. 

The  detail  of  the  minor-axis  swivel 
head  is  shown  in  Fig.  4.  This  swivel 
head  consists  of  two  pieces  of  brass, 
one,  marked  Q,  being  %  in.  square  by 
%  in.  long  and  the  other,  R,  V^  in. 
square  by  i/^  in.  long,  with  a  notch 
cut  out  as  shown.  These  parts,  as  well 
as  the  somewhat  similar  ones  for  the 
major-axis  swivel  head,  can  be  cast 
cheaply,  or  block  brass  may  be  cut 
with  a  hacksaw  and  filed  to  the  right 
shape.  A  shortened  dry-cell  screw,  S, 
with  washer,  to  fit  a  tapped  hole  drilled 
in  the  piece  Q,  serves  to  bind  the  head 
where  desired  on  the  arm.  The  flange 
T  is  a  piece  of  iV-'n.  brass  driven  into 
a  slot  cut  in  the  piece  R.  The  piece 
R  is  pivoted  to  the  piece  Q,  as  shown, 
by  means  of  a  piece  of  wire  nail  which 
engages  Q,  by  friction,  the  lower  end 
being  fitted  with  a  washer  and  riveted 
loosely  so  that  the  parts  will  turn 
freely. 

The  major-axis  swivel-head  detail  is 
shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  piece  U  is  the 
same  size  as  Q,  Fig.  4,  with  its  screw 
set  a  little  farther  forward  to  make 
room  for  the  pivot  V.  which  loosely 
joins  U  and  W  together.  The  pivot 
is  made  of  a  wire  nail,  riveted  on  both 


ends.  The  piece  W  is  of  brass,  l/^  in. 
thick,  %  in.  wide  and  %  in.  long.  The 
spine  X  is  made  just  thick  enough  to 
pass  freely  in  the  groove  J,  Fig.  2.  A 
screw  taken  from  a  discarded  dry- 
battery  cell  is  used  to  bind  the  head 
to  the  arm. 

To  operate  the  ellipsograph,  draw 
a  line,  Y,  Fig.  1,  on  the  paper,  which 
is  to  mark  the  major  axis  of  the  ellipse. 
About  midway  of  its  length  make  a 
point  to  represent  the  center.  On  the 
latter  set  the  point  K,  Fig.  3,  and  adjust 
the  bottom  forward  edge  of  the  base  C 
parallel  with  the  line  Y.  Set  the  minor- 
axis  swivel  head  at  such  a  point  on 
the  arm  L  that,  when  the  latter  is 
directly  on  top  of  the  piece  B,  the  pen- 
cil will  touch  the  paper  at  a  distance 
from  the  center,  marked  by  K,  equal 
to  half  the  minor  axis  of  the  proposed 
ellipse.  To  secure  the  major  axis  swing 
the  arm  until  it  is  parallel  with  the 
piece  A,  leaving  the  major-axis  swivel 
head  unset,  and  set  it  when  the  pencil 
point  has  been  adjusted  to  the  proper 
major  radius. 

Grasp  the  arm  with  the  right  hand 
between  the  swivel  heads  and  bearing 
down,  swing  the  pencil  end  from  right 
to  left.  The  rubber  band  will  keep  it 
constantly  on  the  paper  with  even 
pressure.  When  half  of  the  ellipse  is 
completed  detach  the  rubber  band  and 
rex'erse  the  instrument  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  longitudinal  line  Y  and 
draw  the  other  half  in  the  same 
manner. 


Protector  Cap  for  a  Chisel  Handle 

The  ordinary  chisel  handle  will  soon 
split  and  break  under  the  continuous 
blows  of  a  mallet.  A  very  good  and 
inexpensive  method  of 
preventing  this  is  to 
procure  an  ordinary  pat- 
ent bottle  cap  and  place 
it  on  the  end  of  the 
handle.  It  is  advisable 
to  shape  the  end  of  the  handle  like  a 
bottle  top  in  order  to  firmly  hold  the 
cap  in  place. — Contributed  by  Bert 
Verne,  San  Diego,  Cal. 


Sweeping  Compound 

A  good  sweejiing  compound  may  be 
made  as  follows:  Mix  Vo  pt-  of  warm 
paraffin  oil  with  2  oz.  of  melted  paraf- 
fin wax  and  add  2  oz.  of  artificial  oil 
of  sassafras.  Then  pour  the  mixture 
into  10  lb.  of  sawdust  and  work  the 
whole  thoroughly  together.  Add  to 
this  mixture  4  lb.  of  clean  sand  and 
1/2  lb.  of  coarse  salt.  Each  article 
mentioned  is  comparatively  cheap,  and 
the  compound  can  be  kept  in  an  open 
container. — Contributed  by  Loren 
Ward,   Des   Moines,   Iowa. 


431 


h^m^s^mi 


Freezing  a  Basin  to  a  Chair 

Fill  a  basin  or  pot  half  full  of  snow, 
and  secretly  put  a  handful  of  table 
salt  in  it  and  place  the  vessel  on  a 
chair  or  table,  wetting  the  space  where 
it  is  to  be  set.  After  holding  the  basin 
in  place  for  about  two  minutes,  con- 
tinually stirring  the  contents,  it  will 
freeze  to  the  chair  so  solidly  that  when 
the  basin  is  lifted  the  chair  will  come 
along  with  it. 

This  experiment  is  quite  interesting 
to  an  audience  and  can  be  performed 
at  any  assemblage  with  success.  If  the 
instructions  are  carried  out  closely, 
the  trick  will  always  succeed  and  the 
audience  will  consider  it  magic.  Even 
if  performed  in  a  warm  room,  the  com- 
bination of  snow  and  salt  will  reduce 
the  temperature  below  the  freezing 
point  where  the  bottom  of  the  vessel 
comes  in  contact  with  the  chair  seat. — ■ 
Contributed  by  Harry  Slosower,  Pitts- 
burfrh.  Pa. 


An  Envelope  and  Stamp  Moistener 

A  moistener  for  postage  stamps  or 
envelopes  can  be  easily  made  from  a 
or«.„=.^^  screw-top  jar.  A 
Strip  of  felt  cut  as 
wide  as  the  jar  is  deep 
and  made  into  a  roll 
large  enough  to 
,WATER  fit  the  neck  of 
the  jar  serves  as 
a  wick.  The  metal 
top  is  perforated, 
and,  after  filling  the 
jar  with  water,  it  is 
screwed  into  place.  This  makes  a  very 
inexpensive  moistener  for  the  library 
desk. 


=ir 


A  Homemade  Drill  Press 

An  ordinary  breast  drill  is  used  in 
the  construction  of  this  drill  press,  it 
being  rigidly  secured  to  a  piece  of  oak, 
A,  2  in.  square  and  18  in.  long,  which 


The  Breast 
Drill   as  It  is 
Attached  to 
an  Upright, 
to  Make  a 
Drill  Press 


is  a  sliding  member  on  the  pipe  B.  In 
attaching  the  breast  drill  to  the  wood, 
a  bolt,  having  a  hook  on  the  head  end, 
was  used  at  the  top,  at  C,  and  a  stud 
at  the  bottom  D.  Pipe  clips,  EE,  were 
attached  on  one  side  of  the  block  to  fit 
loosely  over  the  pipe  B.  The  vertical 
part  of  the  pipe  is  supported  by  two 
horizontal  pieces,  FF,  which  are 
fastened  to  a  post.  A  feed  lever,  G,  is 
pivoted  at  the  top  of  the  vertical  piece 
of  oak  A  and  fulcrumed  on  the  post 
with  a  bolt  through  a  slot,  the  extend- 
ing end  carrying  a  weight  as  a  counter- 
balance. The  illustration  clearly  shows 
the  construction  of  this  very  useful 
firill  press. — Contributed  by  W.  A. 
Ready,  Boston,  Mass. 


CA  pair  of  bicycle  trotisers  guards 
makes  excellent  sleeve  bands  when  the 
cufTs  are  turned  back  and  rolled  above 
the  elbows. 


432 


Arts- Crafts   Leather   Work 

By   MARY  C.  SCOVEL 
PART   I 


Leather  work 
is  one  of  the 
most  interesting 
of  the  crafts, 
first,  because  the 
material  is  so 
pliable  that  any- 
Coin  Purse— Back  One  Can  work  it, 

and  secondly,  because  any  ordinary 
article  can  be  made  by  simply  following 
the  directions  carefully,  although  each 
of  the  various  kinds  of  leather  demands 
a  different  process. 

The  equipment  necessary  is  simple, 
consisting  of  two  special  tools  costing 
50  cents  each,  one  with  a  narrow  edge 
for  lining  patterns,  and  one  with  broad 
ends  for  tooling;  and  a  piece  of  tin, 
plate  glass,  or  very 
smooth  hard  wood, 
which  should  not  be 
smaller  than  9  by  12 
in.  A  soft  sponge,  a 
triangle,  a  rule,  trac- 
ing paper  and  a  hard 
pencil  are  also  needed. 
The  first  attempt 
should  be  made  on  a 
piece  of  Russian  calf- 
skin. This  may  be 
purchased  at  any 
leather  store  or  craft 
shop  and  costs  about  ^^^^ic:. 

50     cents     a     square  ^ 

foot,  if  cut  to  meas- 
ure.   Whole  skins  contain  from  8  to  13 
sq.  ft.  and  cost  about  35  cents  a  square 
foot.     Calfskin  may  be  had  in  almost 
any  color. 

The  coin  purse  v^^ill  be  the  first  article 
described.  The  size,  pattern  and  de- 
sign must  first  be  determined.  It  con- 
sists of  three  parts,  the  front,  back  and 
flap,  as  shown  in  the  sketch.  This 
purse  will  require  a  piece  of  leather  4 
by   8   in.,  in   order  to   allow   an   extra 


Coin  Purse — Front 

The  desiijn  must 


Vi  in.  outside  of 
the  pattern  to 
pin  the  leather 
on  the  board 
while  transfer- 
ring the  design. 
The  upper  flap  C 
folds  over  the 
front  of  the  purse  D. 
be  divided,  the  part  belonging  to  C 
placed  on  the  flap,  and  the  part  belong- 
ing to  the  front  D,  on  the  lower  part 
of  the  front. 

Take  a  piece  of  paper  and  fold  it  in 
accordance  with  the  desired  propor- 
tions of  the  purse,  taking  care  that  the 
design  for  the  front  D  is  on  the  same 
side  of  the  paper  as  that  of  the  flap  C. 
The  space  F  under  the 
flap  is  without  any  de- 
sign. The  design  for 
the  front  D  is  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  up- 
per division  of  the  pat- 
tern. Fold  the  part 
F  behind  H,  and  then 
the  part  C  behind  H 
and  F.  Turn  the  pat- 
tern over  for  the 
proper  position  of 
the  purse.  Draw  the 
entire  design  on 
J*        '  tracing  or  tough   tis- 

^j  sue  paper.     Wet  the 

leather  on  the  wrong 
or  unfinished  side  with  a  soft  sponge. 
Pat  the  leather  and  endeavor  to  mois- 
ten, but  not  soak  it,  with  water.  On 
some  leather  the  water,  if  it  comes 
through,  leaves  a  stain.  W'hen  the 
leather  is  too  wet  it  is  very  hard  to 
tool,  as  the  tool  sticks  and  makes  an 
uneven   background. 

Pin  the  design  firmly  down  against 
the  leather  and  fasten  the  leather  with 
thumb    tacks    on    the    outer    margin. 


/ 


433 


With  a  hard  pencil  go  over  every  line 
of  the  design  with  a  firm,  even  pres- 
sure. If  the  leather  is  properly  moist- 
ened, this  will  leave  a  clear  outline  of 
the  design  when 
the  tracing  paper 
is  removed.  Then 
with  a  lining 
tool — the  tool 
with  the  narrow 
edge — go  over 
the  lines  on 
the  leather  with 
a  strong,  firm 
stroke.  Should  a 
line  design  only 
be  desired,  this 
operation  finishes 
the  decoration. 

Two  other 
methods  may  be 
used :  tooling  or 
stamping.  The 
design  shown 
does  not  go  to  the 

edge  of  the  pattern.  A  margin  of  at 
least  1/8  in-  between  the  edge  of  the 
pattern  and  design  must  be  left  for 
tooling  and  stamping.  For  tooling, 
after  lining  the  pattern,  use  the  broad 
end  of  the  tool  and  make 
even,  long  strokes  to 
press  down  the  back- 
ground. If  the  back- 
ground is  not  easily 
pressed  down,  the  leather 
is  too  dry.  Take  it  off  the 
board  and  moisten  the 
back  again,  move  the  tool 
back  and  forth  and  around 
until  the  background  is 
comparatively  smooth. 
Keep  the  edges  very  sharp 
between  parts  pressed 
down  and  those  that  re- 
main raised.  The  depth 
of  pressing  down  the 
background  is  a  matter  of 
taste,  but  it  should  be 
tooled  down  enough  to 
make  the  design  stand  out 
plainly.  Fold  the  parts  together  and 
line  with  silk  to  match  the  leather  and 
then  stitch  up  the  front  and  back  parts 
of  the  purse  close  to  the  edge.     This 


Pattern  for  Purse 


can  be  done  on  any  sewing  machine, 
or  by  a  shoemaker.  The  circle  M  in 
the  pattern  is  the  catch  or  button 
which  can  be  furnished  and  put  on  by 
a  shoemaker,  or 
at  a  trunk  store. 

Any       ordinary 
article    of    leather 
can  be  stitched  on 
a  sewing  machine 
in  the  home.     To 
do     this     success- 
fully    the      stitch 
must  be  long  and 
the    needle    of    a 
large   rather   than 
a  small  size.     Try 
the     stitch     on     a 
scrap     of     leather 
before  sewing  the 
article.    If  the  foot 
or  feed  of  the  ma- 
chine     mars     the 
leather,  place  tis- 
sue    paper     or     a 
plain  piece  of  paper  over  the  leather 
and  stitch  through  both.    After  making 
the    stitch    the    paper    can    be    pulled 
away.     Use    as    heavy    a    silk    as    the 
needle  will  take.     The  card  case,  coin 
purse,    stamp    case    and 
bags  can   all   be    stitched 
on   an   ordinary  machine, 
if  the  above  directions  are 
followed.        In     stitching 
any  soft  leather,   such   as 
ooze  cow  or  ooze  calf,  if 
paper  is  not  put  between 
the   leather   and   the   ma- 
chine,   the    stitching    will 
stretch      the    leather.     In 
making    bags,    instead    of 
stitching    on    a    machine 
one  can  punch  holes  close 
together     with     a     small 
punch,     and     then     with 
strips  of  leather  sew  the 
sides    together    over    and 
over,    or    in    any    manner 
desired.     If  no  machine  is 
at     hand,     nor     a     shoe- 
maker's   shop    nearby,  a   large   pin   or 
awl  may  be  used  to  prick  holes  in  the 
leather,  and  then  the  parts  sewed  to- 
gether  with   needle   and    silk.     Use   a 


stamp-Case  Pattern 


434 


running;  or  over-and-over  stitch.  An 
over-and-over  stitch  from  one  end  of 
the  seam  to  the  other  and  back  to  the 
beginning  of  the  seam,  makes  an  X- 
shaped  stitch  which  gives  a  very  good 
finish. 

The  second  method  after  tooling  is 
stamping.  Line  the  pattern  as  de- 
scribed. Purchase  a  common  carpen- 
ter's nail  set,  with  the  head  not  too 
large.  The  smaller  sets  fit  the  pat- 
terns better  and  make  smaller  circles. 
Moisten  the  leather  as  described.  Use 
a  wooden  mallet  to  strike  the  tool  in 
stamping  the  background.  This  may 
be  done  either  along  circular  lines  or 
in  a  more  irregular  manner,  but  avoid 
striking  the  tool  too  hard,  as  too  much 
pressure  cuts  through  the  leather^ 
Other  stamping  tools  of  good  patterns 
may  be  purchased  at  hardware  stores 
or  crafts  shops. 

A  needle  book  or  stamp  case  is 
another  handy  article  to  make  in 
leather.  The  sketch  shows  the  design. 
A  piece  of  Russian  calf,  6i/4  by  3%  in., 
is  necessary.  This  allows  14  i".  on 
each  side  and  end  for  pinning  down  the 
pattern.  Fold  a  piece  of  paper  into 
three  parts  as  A,  B  and  C,  the  front 


being  A;  the  back,  B,  which  is  folded 
underneath  the  part  A.  The  flap  C 
folds  up  with  B  and  then  over  A 
toward  the  front.  When  the  pattern 
is  open,  the  design  for  all  parts  must 
be  on  the  same  side  of  the  paper.  The 
design  for  the  back  B  is  put  on  the 
leather  upside  down.  When  the  pat- 
tern is  folded  this  makes  the  design 
upright.  The  parts  A,  B  and  C  are 
equal  in  length  and  width.  The  part 
C  may  be  cut  in  any  shape  desired, 
but  keep  the  tongue  D  long  and  nar- 
row. Make  two  horizontal  cuts  in  the 
front  A  about  3%  in.  apart. 

These  cuts  must  be  at  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  bottom  of  the  front  as 
the  narrowest  part  of  the  tongue  is 
from  the  end.  The  tongue  will  then  fit 
the  cuts.  Make  the  horizontal  cuts  a 
little  wider  than  the  tongue.  The  de- 
sign is  put  on  the  leather  in  the  same 
manner.  It  can  be  worked  out  in  line, 
tooling  or  stamping.  The  parts  A  and 
B   are   sewed   together. 

The  mat  illustrated  is  another  useful 
article  and  easy  to  make.  Any  size 
may  be  used,  and  the  method  of  lining 
or  tooling  the  design,  or  both,  gives  a 
verv  beautiful  efTect. 


How  to   Make   a   Wood   Lathe 


A  strong,  substantial  lathe  in  which 
wood  and  light  metal  articles  may  be 
turned  can  be  made  by  carefully  fol- 
lowing the  description  below  and  the 
detailed  drawings  of  the  parts. 

The  bed  is  made  of  two  pieces  of 
straight-grained,  smooth,  2  by  4-in. 
hard  wood,  5  ft.  long.  They  are  held 
apart  at  each  end  by  blocks  of  wood 
2  in.  wide.  The  bed  can,  of  course,  be 
made  longer  or  shorter  if  desired,  but 
the  above  dimensions  are  very  satis- 
factory. The  frame  of  the  headstock, 
Figs.  1  and  2,  is  made  of  hard  wood. 
The  two  end  pieces  have  the  dimen- 
sions and  shape  shown.  These  are 
fastened  with  screws  to  the  base. 

The  base  has  a  slider,  a  strip  of 
wood  1  in.  thick  and  10  in.  long,  wide 
enough  to  slide  smoothly  between  the 
bed  pieces,  nailed  to  its  bottom,  2  in. 


from  the  rear  end.  Two  i/2-Jn-  holes 
are  bored  through  the  baseboard  and 
slide.  Two  i^-in.  bolts  are  run  through 
these  holes  and  through  another  slide 
and  board  which  runs  on  the  under 
side  of  the  bed. 

When  the  nuts  on  these  bolts  are 
tightened,  the  headstock  is  firmly 
clamped  to  the  bed.  A  half-round, 
wedge-shaped  piece  is  fastened  with 
screws  in  the  frame  against  the  front 
end,  to  serve  as  a  brace  against  anj- 
strain,  and  will  also  add  to  its  appear- 
ance. The  spindle  is  of  tool  steel  or 
steel  tubing,  %  in.  in  diameter  and  14 
in.  long.    Threads  are  cut  on  one  end. 

A  hardened  steel  collar,  14  by  IV2  '"•. 
is  riveted  on  the  spindle  so  it  may  turn 
against  another  collar  of  the  same  size 
on  the  headstock.  Another  collar  is 
fastened  with  screws  to  the  rear  end 


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Detail   of  'Wood    Lathe 


SECTION  THROUGH    Fio  4 


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435 


436 


piece,  and  a  collar  with  a  removable 
pin  is  fixed  on  the  spindle.  These 
should  be  fitted  so  as  to  revolve  easily 
against  each  other  and  yet  have  no 
end  play.  The  bearings  are  of  brass 
tubing  drilled  for  a  spindle.  These 
are  inserted  and  wedged  in  the  head- 
stock,  6  in.  from  the  bed. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
they  are  in  line.  Small  holes  are 
drilled  from  the  top  for  oil.  The  pul- 
leys are  2  in.  wide  with  the  diameters 
given  in  the  drawing.  They  are 
fastened  to  the  spindle  with  a  remov- 
able pin. 

A  good  chuck  for  this  lathe  is  made, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  3,  of  a  piece  of  shaft- 
ing li/>  in.  in  diameter  and  21/2  in. 
long.  A  y^-in.  hole  is  drilled  through 
its  center  and  one  end  reamed  out 
and  threaded  to  fit  the  threads  on  the 
end  of  the  spindle.  A  setscrew  is 
fitted  over  the  i/2-in.  hole.  A  center 
for  turning  wood  is  also  shown. 
Many  centers,  drills,  etc.,  can  be  made 
of  %-in.   tool   steel. 

The  tailstock,  Figs.  4  and  5,  is  built 
up  of  three  pieces  of  hard  wood,  2  in. 
thick,  and  one  piece,  1  in.  thick, 
shaped  as  shown.  These  are  held  to- 
gether with  four  bolts,  ^i/o  in.  long. 
It  has  sliders  and  is  clamped  to  the 
bed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  head- 
stock,  but   only  one  bolt   is   used.     A 


handle  is  welded  to  the  nut.  This 
will  make  the  clamping  easy. 

A  piece  of  tubing,  2  in.  long,  is  drilled 
for  a  i/o-in.  dead  center  and  inserted 
for  11/2  in.  between  the  two  upper 
pieces,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6.  A  hole  for 
a  14-in.  bolt  is  bored  through  the  sec- 
tions so  as  to  allow  the  bolt  to  slide 
freely  in  the  tubing.  The  top  section 
is  taken  ofi^  and  a  place  chiseled  out 
just  back  of  the  tube  for  a  V.-in.  nut. 
A  bolt,  7  in.  long  and  threaded  for  2 
in.  of  its  length,  is  turned  into  the 
nut  and  tubing.  A  handle  or  wheel  is 
riveted  on  the  end  of  the  bolt.  The 
center  is  made  of  tool  steel,  lA  in.  in 
diameter,  with  a  tapering  point.  Other 
centers  can  be  made  of  i^-in.  tool  steel. 

The  tool  rest,  Figs.  7,  8  and  9,  has 
a  slide,  %  by  3  by  13  in.,  with  a  slot 
V2  by  6  in.  The  base  of  the  rest  is 
bolted  on  this  slide  so  it  can  be 
adjusted.  The  rest  is  fastened  on  this 
base  with  screws.  The  height  of  the 
rest  can  be  varied.  It  can  be  raised 
or  lowered  by  inserting  wedges  be- 
tween the  slide  and  the  rest  base.  The 
tool  rest  is  clamped  to  the  base  the 
same  as  the  tailstock. 

The  power  for  this  lathe  can  be 
supplied  by  means  of  a  countershaft, 
although  a  foot-power  arrangement 
may  be  attached. — Contributed  by  E. 
E.   Hulgan,  Marion,  Ind. 


To  Reduce  the  Gasoline  Consumption 
of  an  Automobile 

Quite  recently  I  tried  out  a  method 
of  reducing  the  consumption  of  gaso- 
line in  my  automobile,  and,  as  a  result, 
have  higher  efficiency  without  resorting 
to  any  of  the  numerous  and  exceedingly 
costly  devices  on  the  market. 

I  procured  a  piece  of  wire  screen,  cut 
it  in  the  shape  of  the  gasket  between 
the  carburetor  and  the  intake  manifold, 
but  leaving  it  blind,  that  is,  with  the 
screen  across  the  inlet.  I  put  this  be- 
tween two  gaskets  and  fastened  the 
whole  back  in  place.  The  result  was 
an  increase  of  3  miles  per  gallon  of  fuel. 
— Contributed  by  W.  J.  Weber,  New 
York  City. 


Cutting  a  Tin  Ball  from  a  Child's 
Finger 

A  three-year-old  child  found  a  globe 
of  tin  with  a  hole  cut  through  the  cen- 
ter, and — it  is  hardly  necessary  to  state 
— immediately  thrust  his  finger  into 
the  hole.  But  he  could  not  get  it  out 
again,  and  the  mother,  accompanied 
by  several  other  small  children, 
brought  the  screaming  child  to  my 
office.  I  found  the  hole  had  been 
punched,  which  caused  three  harpoon- 
like fragments  to  be  carried  into  the 
center  of  the  globe. 

The  mother  in  her  attempt  to  re- 
move it  had  caused  the  sharp  points 
to  enter  the  flesh  of  the  finger  in  two 
or  three  places.     Any  attempt  to  pull 


437 


the  ball  off,  drove  the  points  of  the 
harpoons  deeper  into  the  finger,  and 
it  was  therefore  a  question  of  cutting 
the  tin  or  the  finger.  But  what  kind 
of  an  instrument  could  I  use  on  this 
tin  globe? 

I  had  nothing  in  my  case  that  would 
cut  it.  My  35  years  of  medical  exper- 
ience gave  me  no  help.  The  tin  was  as 
hard  and  smooth  as  a  glass  marble. 
Yet,  it  would  have  been  ridiculous  to 
be  thus  conquered  by  a  tin  whistle,  so 
after  some  meditation  I  called  to  mind 
that  I  had  a  pair  of  heavy  tinner's  snips 
in  the  basement.  By  using  the  utmost 
care  I  succeeded  in  cutting  a  small  in- 
cision in  the  round  ball,  and  then  with 
the  points  of  the  shears  I  cut  the  metal 
away  from  the  finger. 

Such  an  accident  may  come  under 
the  observation  of  any  parent,  and  if 
so,  he  can  use  the  same  method  to 
relieve  the  child  where  medical  assist- 
ance is  not  near  at  hand. — Contributed 
by  R.  W.  Battles,  M.  D.,  Erie,  Pa. 

Child's  Seat  for  Theaters 

As  children  must  hold  tickets  for 
theaters  the  same  as  adults,  but  the 
ordinary  chair  is  too  low  to  permit  a 
child  to  see  the  performance,  an  auxili- 
ary seat  such  as  shown  in  the  sketch 


Seat  in  a  Theater  Chair 

would  sometimes  be  desirable  as  it 
elevates  the  child  so  its  head  will  be  on 
a  level  with  those  of  other  spectators. 
The  seat  is  made  of  a  strip  of  canvas 
with  eyelets  for  wire  hooks  that  fit 
over  the  arms  of  the  ordinary  theater 


chair.  It  is  necessary  to  have  extra 
eyelets  at  one  end  of  the  canvas  to 
adjust  it  to  varying  widths  of  seats. — 
Contributed  by  W.  A.  Jaquythe,  Rich- 
mond, Cal. 


Holding  Spoon  on  a  Hot  Dish 

After  repeatedly  burning  my  fingers 
in  the  attempt  to  prevent  the  spoon 
from   sliding  into  the   hot   dish,   I   de- 


FiG.2 

Spoon  Holder  on  a  Dish 

cided  to  do  a  little  inventing  on  my 
own  hook.  Taking  a  clean,  straight 
hairpin  I  bent  it  to  the  shape  shown 
in  Fig.  1,  and  after  hooking  it  over  the 
edge  of  the  dish,  I  placed  the  spoon  in 
it  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  my  troubles 
were  at  an  end. — Contributed  by  Miss 
Genevieve  Warner,  Kalamazoo,  Mich. 


Locating  Gas  and  Electric  Fixtures  in 
the  Dark 

A  gas  or  electric  fixture  in  the  center 
of  a  room  is  quite  hard  to  locate  in  the 
dark;  more  so  if  it  is  a  single-light 
pendant.  The  location  may  be  easily 
found  if  the  fixture  is  marked  as  fol- 
lows: Coat  small  pieces  of  cardboard 
on  both  sides  with  phosphorus  and 
suspend  them  from  the  fixtures  with 
small  wires.  No  matter  how  dark  the 
room  may  be,  the  phosphorus  on  the 
cardboard  can  be  readily  seen.  The 
phosphorus  is  the  same  as  used  on 
matches  and  can  be  obtained  from  any 
druggist.  The  phosphorus,  being 
poisonous,  should  be  handled  as  little 
as  possible,  and,  after  using,  should  be 
returned  to  the  water-filled  jar  in 
which  it  was  received  when  bought. 
If  left  in  the  open,  it  may  cause  fire. — 
Contributed  by  Katharine  D.  Morse, 
Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


438 


A  Pea-Shooting  Gun 

The  gun  consists  of  only  two  parts. 
The  liarrel  may  be  either  a  piece  of 
bamboo  fishing  pole  or  a  section  of 
sweet    alder.     The    spring    is    a    piece 


A  Pea-Shooting  Gun  Made  of  a  Piece  of  Alder 
and  a  Corset  String 

of  corset  steel,  such  as  can  be  usually 
found  about  the  home. 

Sweet  alder  can  be  found  in  the  sum- 
mer growing  along  the  fences  in  the 
country  almost  anywhere.  Find  a  stalk, 
about  1  in.  in  diameter,  which  is  good 
and  straight,  and  cut  it  off  to  a  length 
of  6  or  7  in.  Make  a  ram  rod  of  wood 
and  use  it  to  punch  out  the  pith  of  the 
alder,  rendering  the  bore  as  smooth  as 
possible.  An  old  bamboo  pole  of  like 
dimensions  may  be  used  instead. 

Cut  out  a  section  of  the  wood,  2iA 
in.  long,  beginning  li/^  in.  from  one 
end  of  the  tube.  The  depth  of  this  cut 
should  be  almost  halfway  through 
the  piece.  The  corset  steel  is  then  in- 
serted into  the  short  end  of  the  tube 
and  bent  over  .so  that  its  other  end  will 
touch  the  bottom  of  the  open  part  of 
the  bore.  A  nick  is  made  with  a  knife 
across  the  bottom  of  the  bore  at  this 
point,  to  let  the  spring  catch  a  little. 
The  ammunition  is  placed  before  the 
caught  end  of  the  spring,  as  shown, 
and  discharged  by  hooking  the  fore- 
finger over  the  spring  at  tlie  point  A 
and  pulling  backward  as  when  pulling 
the  trigger  of  a  gun. 

It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  muzzle 
elevated  a  little  after  the  ammunition 
is  placed  in  position,  otherwise  the  pea 
will  roll  out  before  the  spring  has  a 
chance    to    strike    it. 


Coloring  Electric-Light  Globes 

Often  it  is  desired  to  produce  cer- 
tain effects  in  lighting  which  demand  a 
different-colored  light  than  that  given 
by  the  modern  tungsten  lamp.  As  an 
example,  a  soft,  mellow  light  is  some- 


times desired  similar  to  that  given  by 
the  old  carbon-filament  lamp.  In  such 
cases  it  is  a  great  mistake  to  install  the 
carbon  lamps  on  account  of  their  ex- 
ceedingly poor  efficiency. 

The  ordinary  tungsten  lamp  has  an 
average  efficiency  of  about  1.2  watts 
per  candlepower,  while  the  carbon- 
filament  lamp  requires  about  3  watts 
per  candlepower.  Therefore,  it  is  much 
more  economical  to  color  the  globe  of 
the  tungsten  lamp  so  as  to  produce  the 
required  color  than  to  use  the  carbon 
lamp.  Of  course,  both  lamps  must  be 
colored  when  any  color  other  than  a 
soft,  yellow  light  is  desired. 

A  cheap  coloring  solution  may  be 
made  as  follows :  Soak  a  small  amount 
of  gelatin  in  cold  water  for  several 
hours,  then  boil  it  and  strain  it  through 
a_  piece  of  fine  cloth.  While  the  solu- 
tion is  still  hot,  add  a  small  quantity  of 
aniline  dye  of  the  desired  color  that  has 
been  previously  mixed  in  a  small 
quantity  of  cold  water.  The  lamps  are 
dipped  in  the  solution  and  then  allowed 
to  cool  in  a  vertical  position  so  that  the 
coating  will  be  more  uniform. 

A  more  satisfactory  coloring  solu- 
tion may  be  made  from  celluloid.  Ob- 
tain quite  a  number  of  old  photo- 
graphic films  and  remove  all  the  gela- 
tin by  washing  them  in  hot  water. 
Then  dissolve  them  in  a  solution  of 
equal  parts  of  ether  and  alcohol.  Add 
the  coloring  solution  and  dip  the  lamps. 
The  coating  produced  by  this  method 
is  impervious  to  water. 


Support  for  an  Open  Book 

When  a  book  is  laid  on  a  table  for 
reading  the  pages  at  the  beginning  or 
end,  it  will  not  stay  open  flat  on  ac- 
count of  the  dif- 
ference in  the 
thickness  of  the 
open  parts.  One 
person,  doing  a 
great  deal  of 
reading,  u  s  e  s  a 
small  card,  with  the  corner  cut  out, 
which  is  placed  under  the  side  of  the 
I)Ook  having  the  smallest  number  of 
leaves,  as  shown. 


439 


tfci"     \ 


NlHI' 

ls^«sss8:^e^^.^:-'??-:-^ 

)!; 


[Some   Conventional   Designs    for    Cardcases 

Arts  -  Crafts    Leather    Work 

By  MARY  C.  SCOVEL 
Part  II 


When  laying  out  designs  for  leather 
work,  avoid  making  them  too  small 
and  intricate.  Bold,  simple  designs  are 
the  best.  The  relation  between  the 
shapes  of  the  background  and  of  the 
design  should  be  well  balanced.  The 
design  should  not  be  so  small  that  the 
large  background  shapes  overbalance 
it.  One  good  way  is  to  let  the  design 
partly  follow  or  repeat  the  contour  of 
the  object.  If  the  article  be  rectangu- 
lar in  shape,  let  some  of  the  lines  of 
the  design  follow  rectangular  lines; 
and  if  circular,  follow  the  curves  of  the 
circle. 

The  first  piece  of  leather  work  con- 
sidered, will  be  an  ar-     

tistic  cardcase.  The 
foundation  of  a  card- 
case  is  a  rectangle. 
Take  a  piece  of  paper 
10  by  4%  in.  and  fold 
it  in  the  middle,  mak- 
ing each  side  5  in., 
then  fold  in  2  in.  on 
each  outside  edge  to- 
ward the  center.  This 
last  fold  makes  the 
pocket  of  the  case.  If 
a  deeper  pocket  is  de- 
sired, a  longer  piece 
of  paper  must  be  used, 
and  the  fold  more 
than  2  in.  Cut  out 
the  leather  according 
to  the  paper  pattern 
and  allow  at  least  14 
in.  for  the  margin. 
This  gives  enough  ex-  stampcase 


tra  material   for  fastening  the  leather 
on    a    board    outside    of    the    pattern. 
Moisten  the  leather  on  the  rough  or 
unfinished    side.      Remember    that,    as 
previously   stated,   Russian  calfskin   is 
the  best  for  tooling.     Place  the  folded 
paper  on  the  right  side  of  the  leather, 
then  with  a  ruler,  triangle  and  lining 
tool  draw  the  vertical  lines  where  the 
paper  is  folded.    If  the  leather  is  moist- 
ened enough,  the  tool  will  make  a  deep 
line.       Make    these    lines    where    the 
leather  is   to  be   folded   in  the  center, 
and  for  each  pocket.     Line  all  around 
the  pattern   on   four  sides   to   indicate 
the    outside     border    of    the    pattern. 
Note    that    there    are 
four  vertical  panels  or 
rectangles,    two    wide 
ones  and  two  narrow 
ones,    as   the    leather 
lies  flat  on  the  board. 
Select    either    of    the 
wider    rectangles    for 
the  front  of  the  card- 
case.       Transfer     the 
design  onto  this  side. 
Place    the    paper    on 
the  moistened  leather 
and    go   over   all   the 
lines    of    the     design 
with    a    hard    pencil. 
When    this    is    done, 
take  the  paper  away 
and   deepen   the   lines 
of  the  design  with  the 
lining  tool.    If  tooling 
is     desired,     use     the 
broad-end     tool     and 


440 


Back  of  Magazine  Cover 

press  down  the  background  with  firm 
even  strokes.  Keep  the  background 
and  edges  of  the  design  sharp.  If 
stamping  is  desired,  make  rows  of 
small  circles,  regular  or  irregular,  by- 
using  the  nail  set  and  a  wood  mallet. 
The  inside  or  lining  is  made  of  skiver 
leather  or  silk.  The  two  center  rect- 
angles are  the  only  parts  lined.  Cut 
out  the  piece  of  silk  or  leather  about 
^V  in.  less  at  the  top  and  bottom  of 
the  rectangles  and  14  ™-  wider  on  each 
side.  If  leather  is  used,  apply  library 
paste  on  its  back,  then  place  carefully 
on  the  inside,  smooth  it  down  firmly 
and  put  it  under  a  heavy  weight  to 
dry.  If  silk  is  used,  apply  the  paste 
around  the  edges  for  a  width  of  about 

14  in.,  and  put  it  under  the  weight. 
The  case  is  then  folded  and  sewed  at 
top  and  bottom.  Cut  off  the  surplus 
leather  about 
1/8  in.  from  the 
stitches. 

The  next 
article  is  the 
useful  maga- 
zine cover, 
which  anyone 
should  delight 
in  making.  It 
requires 
a  piece  of 
leather    11    by 

15  in.  Allow 
enough  mar- 
gin to  fasten 
it  to  the 
board.  Fold 
the      narrow 


Cover  Designs  for  Cardcases 


Silk  Lining  of  Magazine  Cover 

edges  together.  The  design  can  be 
placed  on  either  side.  A  border  de- 
sign bounded  by  rectangular  lines  is 
very  suitable.  The  margin  allowed 
around  the  design  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration is  1  in.  from  the  front  edge, 
11  li  in.  from  the  top  edge,  and  214  in. 
from  the  bottom  edge.  The  design 
is  514  in.  wide.  It  is  placed  on  the 
moistened  leather  and  lined,  tooled  or 
stamped  as  described  for  the  card- 
case.  The  inside  of  this  cover  is  lined 
with  heavy  silk.  Allow  a  14-in.  margin 
to  turn  in  on  all  four  sides.  Two  strips 
made  of  the  lining  material,  2I/2  in. 
wide  and  11  in.  long,  are  placed  ll^  in. 
from  each  side,  over  the  lining  on  the 
inside.  The  lining,  strips  and  the 
leather  are  stitched  together  about  14 
in.  from  the  edge  on  all  four  sides. 
The   strips   are  to  hold   the  magazine 

in  place  as 
the  cover  of 
the  book  is 
slipped  be- 
tween  the 
cover  and  the 
strip. 

Other  kinds 
I  if  leather, 
such  as  ooze 
cow  and  ooze 
calf,  may  be 
used,  but 
these  only  al- 
low the  meth- 
od of  cutting 
out  the  de- 
s  i  g  n,  as 
shown   in   the 


441 


7             T 

Pattern  for  a   Cardcase 


bag    and    stampcase.      The    design    is 
traced   on   the   wrong  or   smooth   side 
of   the    leather.      Do    not   moisten    the 
ooze  leather.    Fas- 
ten     the      leather 
firmly     on      the 
board  and  cut  out 
the  design  with  a 
sharp     knife.       A 
soft    silk    is    best 
for  the  lining.   Ap- 
ply  the   paste   on 
the     leather    near 
the    edge    of    the 
design    and    after 
laying  the   silk  in 
place,  put  it  under  a  weight  to  dry. 
The    stampcase    and    handbags    are 


Handbags 


laid  out,  and  the  designs  made  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  the  cardcase  and 
magazine  cover,  but  instead  of  stitch- 
ing the  edges 
on  the  handbags, 
they  are  joined 
with  thongs  run 
through  holes  cut 
in  the  edges  of 
the  leather.  The 
stampcase  edges 
are  sewed  togeth- 
er. Bear  in  mind 
that  Russian  calf 
is  used  for  tooling 
and  stamping, 
ooze   cow   or   calf   for   perforated 


ind 


designs. 


Furnace  Electrodes  of  Lead  Pencils 

Furnace  electrodes  frequently  con- 
sist of  carbon  rods,  and  if  there  is  a 
short   gap    between    them,    forming   a 


Pencil  Electrodes  ^Vhich  Furnish  Intense  Heat 

break  in  the  circuit,  the  current  jumps 
across  that  gap,  forming  an  "arc."  The 
intense  heat  of  the  arc  is  used  in  fus- 


ing and  melting  metals.  As  large 
electrodes  are  necessary  for  use  in  fur- 
naces where  great  masses  of  metal  are 
melted,  so  small  electrodes  are  adapted 
to  finer  or  more  delicate  work,  says 
Popular    Electricity. 

As  the  lead  or  graphite  in  a  lead 
pencil  is  a  form  of  carbon,  it  will  make 
an  excellent  electrode  for  small  work. 
Two  ordinary  lead  pencils,  costing  only 
one  cent  each,  may  be  used.  They  are 
first  sharpened  as  if  they  were  to  be 
used  for  the  usual  purpose  of  writ- 
ing. Then  a  small  notch  is  cut  in  one 
side   of    each    pencil,    laying    the    lead 


442 


bare  at  a  point  about  2  in.  from  the 
sharpened  end. 

A  small  copper  wire  is  wound  around 
the  pencil  and  into  this  notch,  thereby 
making  contact  with  the  exposed  lead 
or  graphite.  By  means  of  these  small 
wires  the  pencils  are  connected  to 
larger  wires,  which  in  turn  are  con- 
nected to  a  switchboard  or  source  of 
electric-current  supply. 

At  some  place  in  the  circuit  there 
should  be  a  resistance  to  prevent  short- 
circuiting  and  also  to  control  the 
strength  of  the  current.  As  the  wood 
sheath  on  the  pencils  offers  sufficient 
insulation,  they  may  be  picked  up,  one 


in  either  hand,  and  no  electrical  effect 
will  be  felt  by  the  person  so  doing.  If 
the  pointed  tips  are  touched  together,  a 
fine  little  arc,  not  much  larger  than  the 
tips  of  the  pencils,  will  be  formed.  The 
temperature  of  this  arc,  however,  is 
such  that  fine  wires  or  small  quantities 
of  metal  may  be  melted  readily. 

These  little  lead-pencil  arcs  may  be 
used  to  fuse  very  small  gold  or  silver 
wires,  or  platinum  thermometers,  or 
wires  for  tungsten  or  tantalum  lamps. 
The  bead  or  globule  of  molten  metal 
formed  on  the  end  of  a  fine  wire  need 
be  no  longer  than  a  small-sized  grain 
of  sand. 


Coat  and  Trousers  Hangers 

The  hanger  is  simple  in  construction 
and  can   be  easily   made  by   following 


Details  of  Hangers 

the  dimensions  given  in  the  drawing, 
and   the   directions   given  below. 

The  back  is  first  marked  off  on  a 
soft-pine  board  and  cut  out.  The 
curved  edge  should  be  rounded  off  so 
as  to  prevent  injury  to  the  coat.  The 
two  end  pieces  are  then  made,  and 
fastened  to  the  back  with  screws  as 
shown.  The  wedge  is  ripped  diag- 
onally from  stock  and  the  smaller  edge 
made  slightly  round.  The  wedge 
slides  in  between  the  two  end  pieces, 
and  after  the  trousers  have  been  put 
in  place,  is  pushed  down  until  it  holds 
them  securely.  The  hanger  is  a  screw 
hook  turned  into  the  wood,  or  it  may 
be  made  of  a  piece  of  heavy  wire  run 
through   a  hole  in  the  back  and  bent 


over  on  the  bottom  edge.  The  wood 
may  be  stained  any  desired  color  and 
then  given  two  coats  of  shellac. — Con- 
tributed by  Olaf  Tronnes,  Wilmette, 
Illinois. 


Mending  Broken  Fountain-Pen  Barrels 

Broken  fountain-pen  barrels  may  be 
mended  by  the  use  of  melted  shellac. 
This  can  be  done  by  heating  some  dry 
shellac  and  applying  it  to  the  fracture. 
Do  not  scrape  off  the  surplus  shellac, 
but  shape  it  with  a  heated  iron.  A  pen 
with  such  a  repair  has  been  in  use  for 
two  years. — Contributed  by  G.  D. 
Whitney,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 


Jig-Saw   Blades 

The  ordinary  form  of  jig-saw  blade 
has  a  tendency  to  pull  the  fiber  of  the 
wood  in  one  direction,  thereby  produc- 
ing a  jagged  cut.  To  overcome  this  I 
made  several  blades  with  teeth  as 
shown  in  the  sketch.  After  the  down- 
stroke  is  completed,  the  teeth  A  will 
cut  on  the  upstroke,  the  teeth  B  cut- 
ting on  the  downstroke,  etc.     The  up- 


MstsISJ^tN^vtsIsr- 


Teeth  Cut  in  Opposite  Direction 

Stroke  teeth  should  be  a  trifle  longer 
than  the  others  and  from  4  to  6  in 
number. — Contributed  by  Phillip  Caf- 
lish,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


443 


Leaded -Glass   Panels   for   Furniture 


Certain  kinds  of  furniture  may  be 
greatly  improved  in  appearance  by  the 
use  of  simple  g;lazed  panels  in  the  door 
frames.  It  would  be  inappropriate  to 
have  anything  elaborate  in  a  small 
cabinet  for  the  reception  of  china  as  it 
distracts  the  attention  from  the  con- 
tents, but  a  simple  leaded  diapering  or 
pattern  of  small  design,  such  as  shown 
in  Figs.  1  and  8,  would  be  quite  in 
place  and  have  a  good  efifect.  For 
other  purposes  more  elaborate  effects 
can  be  worked  out  in  deep  shades,  says 
Work,  London. 

A  hanging  cabinet  with  leaded 
panels  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  These 
panels  for  the  doors  are  in  the  design 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Panels  of  this  design 
can  be  used  either  for  furniture  or  for 
small  windows.  The  process  of  mak- 
ing these  panels  is  not  difficult  and  the 
ordinary  workman  can  form  them,  the 
only  difficult  part  being  the  soldering 
of  the  joints. 

The  beginner  should  confine  himself 
to  plain  glazing,  the  design  being 
formed  by  piecing  together  glass  of 
different  shades.  The  method  of  pro- 
cedure is  to  first  make  a  small  sketch 
in  color  to  a  scale  of  about  1  in.  to  the 
foot,  carefully  arranging  the  parts  and 
colors.  A  full-sized  panel  can  be 
drawn  from  this  sketch.    The  effect  of 


plain  glazing  depends  entirely  on  the 
arrangement  of  the  lead  lines  and  the 
art   glass.      In   the   full-sized   drawing 


Simple  I^eaded  Diapering  of  Small  Design  for  a  Small 
China  Closet  or  Cabinet 


A  Small    Hanging    Cabinet    with    Doors    Having    the 
Leaded- Glass  Design  Shown  in  Fig,  2 

the  shapes  are  arranged  so  that  they 
may  be  easily  cut,  all  long  forms  being 
either  avoided  in  the  design,  or  divided 
by  a  cross-lead  to  guard  against  break- 
age in  the  cutting. 

Two  simple  forms  of  glazing  are 
shown  in  b^igs.  1  and  2.  The  one 
shown  in  Fig  4  is  somewhat  different, 
the  top  of  the  panel  being  decorated 
with  simple  curves.  This  general  de- 
sign is  considerably  elaborated  in  Figs. 
5,  6  and  7.  It  is  desirable  to  decorate 
only  a  part  of  a  window  so  that  the 
maximum  of  light  may  gain  access. 

Two  simple  treatments  of  a  sailing 
craft  are  shown  in  Figs.  8  and  9.  The 
efifect  of  the  introduction  of  this  de- 
sign in  one  of  the  panels  of  a  small 
cabinet  is  shown  in  Fig.  1. 

An  example  of  plain  glazing  is 
shown  in   Fig.  10.     This  is  a  piece  of 


444 


simple  leading  and  yet  very  effective, 

involving  no  difficulty  of  construction. 

For  this  lead  glazing  a  quantity  of 

strip    lead,    the    section    of    which    is 


fW^ 


III     i'    I   '  I   -^ 


Only  a  Part  of  the  Top  of  Each  Window  is  Highly  Decorated  so  That  th 
Maximum  Light  may  Gain  Access 

shown  in  Fig.  11,  will  be  required. 
This  can  be  purchased  from  dealers  in 
art-glass  supplies.  The  lead  is  sold 
on  spools  and  it  must  be  straightened 


Sketch  out  the  lines  of  the  design 
full  size  on  paper,  drawing  in  only  one 
side  of  a  symmetrical  pattern  and  trac- 
ing the  other.  After  the  design  has 
been  prepared,  the  next 
step  is  to  make  a  cut- 
ting pattern.  To  do 
this,  take  a  piece  of 
tracing  cloth  and  lay  it 
on  the  drawing.  Trace 
the  lines  and  go  over 
them  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  black,  mak- 
ing the  lines  exactly 
the  same  thickness  as 
the  core  of  the  lead,  or 
the  thickness  of  the 
distance  the  glasses  are 
separated  from  one  an- 
other, as  shown  in  Fig. 
11.  Each  division  is 
marked  for  the  color  it 
is  to  be  and  the  paper  is  then  cut  into 
sections  on  each  side  of  the  broad  line. 
These  pieces  form  the  patterns  for  cut- 
ting similar  shapes  from  heavy  card- 
board which  serve  as  templates  for 
cutting  the  glass. 

Proceed  to  cut  the  glass  by  laying 
a  pattern  on  the  right  side  and  scoring 
around  with  the  cutter  guided  by  the 
pattern.  Little  difficulty  will  be  ex- 
perienced in  this  work  if  the  general 
design  does  not  have  very  irregular 
shapes. 

When    the    various    pieces   of    glass 


Two  Windows  Placed  Together  May  Have  Their  Tops 
Leaded  to  Produce  a  Combined  Effect 

before  it  can  be  worked.  This  is  most 
easily  done  by  fastening  one  end  and 
pulling  on  the  other.  The  glass  for 
this  work  must  be  reasonably  thin  as 
no  advantage  is  gained  by  the  use  of 
thick  material,  and  it  is  difficult  to  cut. 
A  piece  of  art  glass  has  a  right  and  a 
wrong  side,  the  side  on  which  the  spots 
and  streaks  appear  is  the  right  side, 
and  it  is  cut  on  this  side.  The  tools 
required  are  a  glass  cutter,  a  heavy 
knife  and  soldering  appliances. 


Fig. 8 


Two   Designs    for    the    Tops    of    Windows,    Showing 
Treatments  of  Sailing  Craft 


445 


have  been  successfully  cut  and  are 
ready  for  leading  up,  arrange  them  in 
position  on  the  preliminary  sketch, 
and  then  measure  the  outside  leads  and 
cut  one  piece  for  each  side,  the  lead 
being  cut  to  fit  against  the  core  of  the 
other  at  the  joint,  as  shown  in  Figs.  13 
and  13.  Proceed  to  cut  the  lead  for 
the  long  curves  obtaining  the  length 
by  bending  the  strips  along  the  lines 
of  the  design.  As  each  is  cut  it  will 
be  found  convenient  to  tack  it  in  posi- 
tion on  the  working  table  by  means 
of  small  brads,  so  as  to  simplify  the 
measuring  and  cutting  of  the  other 
parts.  Continue  until  the  panel  is 
complete,  when,  after  truing  up,  it  is 


jT 

N 

r 

J 

Fig. 1 1 


Example  of  Plain  Glazing  with  Cross  Section  of  Gla 
and  Lead  Strip,  also  Sho^ving  Joint 


Fig. 13  Fig.  14 

The  Lead  Frame  is  First  Made,   the    Long   Lines  are 
Put  in  and  Then  the  Short,  Horizontal  Ones 

ready  for  soldering.  This  is  done  in 
the  usual  way  but  requires  extraordi- 
nary care  to  avoid  the  possibility  of 
melting  the  lead.  The  overlapping 
parts  of  the  leads  are  pressed  well 
against  the  glass  in  each  division  to 
keep  it  from  rattling. 

In  making  tip  the  squares  and  rec- 
tangles such  as  appear  in  Figs.  2,  4,  5, 
6  and  7,  lead  the  long  lines  first,  add- 
ing the  shorter,  horizontal  pieces  last. 
The  sketch,  Fig.  14,  will  clearly  illus- 
trate this  part  of  the  work.  The  sketch 
shows  the  starting  of  the  panel,  Fig.  5. 


Raising  Cucumbers  on  a  Trellis 

A  novelty  in  cucumber  culture,  tried 
recently  with  great  success,  is  as  fol- 
lows: As  soon  as  the  vines  are  about 
18  in.  long,  stretch  wire  mesh  24  in. 
wide  on  poles  alongside  the  row  of 
plants  and  train  the  vines  on  the  wire. 
The  cucumbers  will  grow  larger  and 
the  plants  will  require  less  care  than 
when  they  are  on  the  ground. 


A  Barrel  Boat 

A  boat  that  any  handy  boy  can 
easily  make  is  constructed  of  a  barrel 
which  is  kept  with  the  opening  cut  in 
one  side  up  by  two  4  by  6-in.  timbers 
and  two  tie  pieces,  2  by  4  in.  The 
lengths  of  these  pieces  will  depend  on 
the  size  of  the  barrel. 

A  good  watertight  barrel  should  be 


selected  and  an  opening  cut  in  the  cen- 
ter between  the  hoops,  of  such  a  size 
as  to  allow  the  body  of  the  occupant 
room  for  handling  an  oar.  The 
timbers  are  attached  to  the  barrel  with 
iron  straps — pieces  of  old  hoops  will 
do.  The  two  tie  pieces  are  put  across 
the  timbers  at  the  ends  of  the  barrel 
and  spiked  in  place. 

The  boat  is  to  be  propelled  with  a 
single,  double-end  paddle.  There  is 
no  danger  of  the  boat  capsizing  or  the 
water  splashing  into  the  barrel. 


Boat  Made  of  a  Barrel  Which  is  Kept  from  Capsizing 
by  Timbers  Attached 


446 


Homemade  Wing  Nuts  a    small    block,    conveniently    located 

where  the  pen  may  be  drawn  across 
A    handle    taken    from    a    worn-out      it   as   in   making  a  line.     The   tuft  of 
faucet,  drilled  out  and  threaded  for  a      the    velvet   will    clean   out   the    partly 
bolt,  makes  a  good  wing  nut.     A  dis-      dried  ink  between  the  nibs. — Contrib- 
uted by  H.   L.  Woodward,  Washing- 
ton, D,  C. 


Wing  Nuts  Made  of  Discarded  Parts  Taken  from  a 
Faucet  or  a  Gas  Bracket 

carded  gas-bracket  key,  cut  oft"  on  the 
line  AA  and  vvith  the  part  within  the 
dotted  lines  filed  out,  then  drilled  and 
threaded,  also  makes  a  good  wing  nut. 


A  Spool-and-Ball  Puzzle 

Procure  an  empty  basting-thread 
spool  and  make  a  hole  in  its  side,  at  A, 
just  large  enough  to  receive  a  i/4-in. 
steel  ball.  A  piece  of  celluloid,  B,  is 
wrapped  around  the  flanges,  as  shown, 
and  fastened  with  small  brads.    An  old 


wmmW///////M 

M^Mg«^^m^ 

i   •          1 

The  Steel  Ball  is  Not  So  Easily  Run  Into  the   Hole 
as  It  Appears 

negative  film,  well  cleaned,  is  suitable 
for  the  celluloid.  Be  sure  to  put  the 
steel  ball  in  before  fastening  the  cellu- 
loid in  place. 

The  difficulty  of  the  puzzle  is  to  get 
the  ball  into  the  hole. — Contributed  by 
R.  C.  Knox,  Waycross,  Ga. 


To    Start    the    Ink    Flowing    from    a 
Drawing  Pen 

In  order  to  keep  the  ink  flowing 
readily  from  a  drawing  pen  it  must  be 
kept  clean  and  not  allowed  to  stand 
with  the  ink  in  the  nibs.  A  good  plan 
is  to  have  a  small  piece  of  velvet  fast- 
ened  to   the   drawing   board   or   upon 


A  Pencil-Sharpener  Stick 

Do  not  discard  the  sandpaper  stick 
or  pencil  sharpener  used  by  a  drafts- 
man just  because  all  the  abrasive 
sheets  have  been  removed.  Make  use 
of  it  indefinitely  by  fitting  a  wedge  in 
one  edge,  as  shown  in  the  illustration, 
to  hold  fresh  sheets  of  sand  or  emery 


A  Wedge  Attachment  for  a  Pencil-Sharpener  Stick 
for  Changing  the  Sheets  of  Abrasive 

paper.  The  wedge  should  fit  tightly 
so  that  the  ends  of  the  abrasive  sheet, 
when  wound  around  the  block,  will 
be  held  tightly.  Worn  sheets  can  thus 
be  rem.oved  and  new  ones  applied 
when  necessary.  —  Contributed  by 
Chas.  J.  La  Prelle,  Flushing,  L.  I. 


Splice  for  Round  Belts 

Sash  cords  or  round  belts  are  easily 
spliced  with  a  coil  spring,  and  for  belts 
this  joint  will  run  smooth  and  noise- 
less. The  coil  should  be  a  close  fit  on 
the  belt,  and  after  turning  one  end  half- 
way into  the  spring,  the  belt  itself  is 
twisted  in  the  reverse  direction  as 
many  times  as  there  are  coils  remain- 


A  Coil  Spring  User  for  Splicing  Sash  Cords  or 
Small  Round  Belts 

ing  in  the  spring,  before  the  other  end 
is  turned  into  it  to  meet  the  first. — Con- 
tributed by  F.  S.  Cummings,  Detroit, 
Michigan. 


CW'hen  painting  wireless  instruments 
use  black  asphaltum,  as  it  has  high 
insulating  qualities. 


447 


Amateur    Mechanic's    Combination    Lathe 


By  JOE  V.  ROMIG 


The  thing  most  desired  by  a  young 
mechanic  is  a  lathe,  but  the  cost  of 
these  machines  is  usually  too  high  to 
be  considered  by  the  average  boy,  and 
consequently  he  is  hampered  in  exe- 
cuting more  difficult  work.  The  com- 
bination lathe  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion comes  as  near  filling  the  wants 
of  most  boy  mechanics  as  could  be 
wished,  the  attachments  making  it 
more  than  a  lathe  so  that  various  kinds 
of  work  other  than  turning  may  be 
accomplished.  The  materials  neces- 
sary are  few,  and, 
outside  of  a  few 
parts,  it  can  be 
constructed  by  the 
average  boy  at 
home  with  ordi- 
nary tools. 

The    material 
used  for  the  con- 
struction    of     the 
frame   consists   of 
either     well     sea- 
soned oak  or  ma- 
ple,  2%   in.    wide 
and  11/2  in.  thick. 
These  timbers  can 
be    purchased 
surfaced     o  n 
all   sides,    and 
they   must   be 
straight   and 
true     to     size. 
The  lengths  to 
cut  the  pieces 
are    given    on 

the  general  drawing.  The  end  standard 
at  the  headstock  is  cut  to  the  full 
length  so  that  the  upper  end  is  used 
as  a  bearing  for  the  headstock  spindle. 
A  vise  jaw,  about  2%  ft.  long  and  of 
the  same  kind  and  dimension  material 
as  the  frame,  is  attached  with  screws 
made  of  bolts  on  the  standard,  at  the 
tailstock  end  of  the  lathe.  The  feet 
are  made  of  two  boards  for  each  stand- 
ard, and  are  of  the  same  material  as 
the  frame  and  %  in-  thick.  After  cut- 
ting   the    pieces    to    the    right    length, 


The  Main  Ambition  of  a  Boy  Mechanic  is  to  Own  a  Lathe 


making  sure  that  the  ends  are  square, 
and  boring  the  holes  to  receive  the 
bolts  snugly,  they  are  put  together, 
the  horizontal  pieces  for  the  ways  and 
feet  at  perfect  right  angles  to  the  up- 
rights. This  will  insure  the  parts  run- 
ning freely  in  the  finished  machine.  All 
bolts  should  be  supplied  with  a  washer 
under  both  head  and 
nut,  and  the  nuts 
drawn  up  tightly. 

The  headstock  ex- 
tends 7  in.  above  the 
upper  surface  of  the 
ways,  thus  making  a 
swing  of  12  in.  One 
of  the  standards  of  the 
headstock  is  the  exten- 
sion of  the  lathe  stand- 
ard, as  previously  men- 
tioned ;  the  other  stand- 
ard being  cut  9%  in. 
long  and  attached  with 
bolts  between  the  ways 
in  the  same  manner  as 
the  lathe  standards  are 
fastened.  A  block,  3 
in.  long,  is  fastened  be- 
tween these  standards 
to  aid  in  hold- 


i  n  g  them 
rigid.  The 
bearings  for 
the  spindle, 
which  is  a 
piece  of  steel, 
%  in.  in  diam- 
eter and  about 


9  in.  lung,  are  made  in  the  upper  ends 
of  the  standards  in  the  following 
manner : 

A  li/4-in.  square  is  laid  out  on  the 
upper  end  of  each  standard,  with  its 
center  exactly  over  the  center  for  the 
shaft,  and  the  wood  is  cut  out  to  make 
a  square  hole,  which  should  be  slightly 
tapering  one  way  or  the  other  toward 
the  center  of  the  standard,  to  hold  the 
babbitt  metal  used  for  the  bearing.  A 
%-in.  hole  is  bored,  vertically  down 
from  the  upper  end  of  each   standard 


448 


and  in  the  center,  to  meet  the  square 
hole.  This  is  used  as  a  gate  for  pour- 
ing the  melted  metal  in  and  later  to 
make  an  oil  hole.  Prepare  8  pieces  of 
cardboard    to    hold    the    melted    metal 


standard.  A  split  or  solid  pulley  may- 
be used,  as  desired,  on  the  shaft  be- 
tween the  standards.  If  a  solid  pulley 
is  used,  it  must  be  slipped  on  the  shaft 
as  the  latter  is  run  ir.to  the  bearings. 


Detail  of  the  Plain  Lathe.  Showing  the  Constiuction  of  the  Clamp  Devices  for  the  Tailstock  and  Rest  Slide, 
and  the   Manner  of  Attaching  a  Vise  Jaw  on  the   End  of  the   Lathe  Bed 


in  the  square  holes  while  it  cools,  by 
cutting  them  about  2  in.  square  and 
making  a  hole  in  the  center  of  each,  % 
in.  in  diameter.  Two  of  these  pieces 
are  held  between  the  two  standards 
while  the  shaft  is  run  through  them 
and  the  square  holes.  Paint  the  parts 
of  the  shaft  used  in  the  bearing  with 
thick  white  lead,  or  wrap  it  with  one 
thickness  of  writing  paper,  then  line 
it  up  perfectly  parallel  with  the  ways 
in  both  directions  and  tack  the  card- 
board pieces  to  the  standards.  Place 
the  remaining  two  cardboard  disks  on 
the  ends  of  the  shaft  and  tack  them  to 
the  standards  also.  Place  putty  over 
all  the  edges  and  pour  melted  babbitt 
metal  into  the  hole  at  the  top.  When 
the  metal  is  cool,  remove  the  cardboard 
disks  and  turn  the  shaft,  first  in  one 
direction  and  then  in  the  other,  until 
it  can  be  taken  from  the  bearings,  A 
Vs-in.  hole  is  then  drilled  through  the 
metal  in  the  top  for  an  oil  hole.  The 
ends  of  the  shaft  should  be  threaded 
by  a  machinist,  and  nuts  fitted  to  it  and 
faced  up  true.  The  threads  should  be 
cut  just  long  enough  to  allow  the  back 
of  each  nut  to  turn  freely  against  a 
washer  placed  on  the  shaft  against  the 


The  pulley  is  fastened  to  the  shaft  with 
a  pin  run  through  a  hole  drilled  in 
them.  If  a  small  flywheel  is  attached 
to  the  outer  end  of  the  spindle  it  will 
aid  in  keeping  a  steady  motion. 

The  same  procedure  is  carried  out  in 
the  construction  of  the  tailstock  bear- 
ings. The  standards  for  this  part  are 
about  8  in.  long  and  are  bolted  at  right 
angles  to  and  between  two  pieces  that 
rest  on  top  of  the  ways.  The  shaft  is 
threaded  full  length,  which  should  be 
done  in  a  lathe  by  a  machinist  to  get  a 
true  thread,  and  the  melted  metal  run 
on  it  to  make  an  internal  thread  in  the 
bearing.  A  nut  is  run  on  the  threads 
of  the  sliaft  between  the  standards,  and 
provided  with  a  small  handle  for  use 
in  locking  the  shaft  when  it  is  set  on 
work  between  centers.  A  small  hand- 
wheel  is  attached  to  the  back  end  of 
the  shaft,  into  the  rim  of  which  a  han- 
dle is  set  to  make  the  turning  easy. 

The  faceplate  consists  of  a  disk  of 
metal.  6  in.  in  diameter  and  Vt  iu-  thick, 
attached  with  j^-in.  machine  screws 
to  a  %-in.  nut.  The  disk  is  drilled  in 
various  places  to  receive  ordinary 
wood  screws.  The  faceplate  should  be 
made  by  a  machinist  so  that  the  sur- 


449 


ADJUSTING,, 
SCREW 


E 


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irni 

TABLE    USED  WITH  CIRCULAR  SAW 


^ 


© 


=1 


BRASS 
' \  PIATE 


PLANER   HEAD  CONSfRUCTION 


© 
© 


XX 


TABLE  USED  WITH  PLANER  HEAD 


0 


o       (J  o     o  ] 

NOTCH   TOR 
JIG  SAW  STANDARD  ' 


PLANER 

HEAD  SLOT 


O-JIG  SAW  HOLE 


J^^ 


L 


cii 


: 


CLAMPING 
-TIGHTENER  jQk^    NUTS 


JIG  SAW  STANDARD 


] 


^ 


PIVOTS  FOR  ARMS 


TACE  PLATE 


Q 


U 


SAW   CLAMP 

^  SLIDE i> 


SPUR   CENTER 


I  1»J^^ 


S^^=^^S> 


=a^^      (c 


ROUND  NOSE  CHISEL 


CHISELS 


DIAMOND  POINT  CHISEL 


Detail   of  the  Various  Attachments  for  Use  in  Conrection  with  the  Lathe  for  Sawing,  Planing  and  Sanding, 
and  the  Shape  of  the  Tools  Used  in  Turning,  Together  with  the  Faceplate  and  Spur  Construction 

face   of   the    face   can   be   turned   true.  The  drive  wheel  for  this  lathe  was 

The  spur  center  is  made  of  a  %-in.  nut,  taken   from   an  old  discarded  washing 

drilled   in   opposite   corners   for   14-in.  machine.    Such  a  wheel  is  a  very  com- 

pins,  114  in.  long.  mon  part  of  various  kinds  of  machinery 


450 


and  usually  one  that  will  answer  the 
purpose  can  be  found  in  a  junk  pile. 
One  from  20  to  34  in.  in  diameter  will 
be  about  right.  A  i/2-in-  holt  is  used 
for  the  shaft,  which  is  run  through  the 
standard  at  the  headstock  end  of  the 
lathe  from  the  outside,  the  threads  be- 
ing previously  cut  long  enough  to  in- 
troduce a  nut  between  the  wheel  and 
the  standard  for  clamping  the  bolt  in 
place.  The  extending  threaded  end  of 
the  bolt  is  then  supplied  with  two  nuts, 
one  on  each  side  of  the  wheel  hub, 
and  a  short  piece  of  pipe  is  slipped  on, 
to  make  a  bearing  over  the  threads. 
One  of  the  spokes  is  drilled  and  a  pin 
inserted  and  fastened  to  receive  the 
upper  end  of  the  pitman  from  the 
treadle.  The  wheel  is  adjusted  on 
the  shaft  with  the  nuts  on  each  side  of 
the  hub  so  that  its  face  runs  true 
with  the  pulley  on  the  headstock.  The 
wheels  are  connected  with  a  1-in. 
leather  belt. 

The  treadle  consists  of  a  frame  built 
up  of  boards  and  swung  in  the  centers 
at  both  ends  on  %-in.  steel  rods,  for 
bearing  pins,  the  bearings  being  made 
of  wood  standards  with  %-in.  holes 
bored  in  them  to  receive  the  pins.  The 
pitman  is  made  of  wood,  its  length 
being  determined  by  measurement  of 
the  distance  between  the  crank  pin 
and  the  treadle-arm  end  when  both 
are  at  their  lowest  point. 

The  slide  for  the  rest  consists  of  a 
1-in.  square  steel  bar,  about  10  in.  long, 
having  a  hole  drilled  in  one  end  and 
threads  cut  with  a  y2-in.  tap.  The 
rest  used  in  this  hole  is  made  of  a  %-in. 
rod,  threaded  on  one  end  and  bent  at 
right  angles  on  the  other.  The  clamp- 
ing device  for  the  slide  is  made  of  two 
bars,  1  in.  by  i\  in.,  fastened  to  the 
square  bar  and  extending  down  be- 
tween the  ways  with  sufficient  ends 
beneath  to  attach  a  wooden  clamp 
block  and  cam  with  a  handle.  This 
construction  is  clearly  shown  in  the 
drawing.  If  only  a  lathe  is  required, 
the  machine  would  be  complete  as  now 
described,  but  the  other  attachments 
illustrated  will  greatly  add  to  its  use- 
fulness and  the  owner  will  be  well  re- 
paid by  making  them. 


Attachments 

One  table  is  used  for  the  circular 
saw,  planer  head,  sander,  and  jig  saw, 
and  it  is  attached  on  top  of  the  head- 
stock  and  tailstock  standards  with 
bolts,  run  through  the  back  edge  of 
the  board  and  the  ends  of  two  brackets 
which  are  screwed  to  the  back  edge 
of  the  inner  standards.  Thumb  nuts 
are  used  on  the  bolts  to  aid  in  making 
the  change  quickly.  More  than  one 
hole  is  provided  in  the  back  edge  of 
the  board,  so  that  the  tailstock  bracket 
can  occupy  the  right  position  for  the 
sander  or  planer  head,  as  the  case  may 
be.  The  holes  in  the  bracket  ends 
should  be  somewhat  larger  than  the 
bolt,  to  allow  tilting  of  the  table.  An 
adjusting  screw  is  substituted  for  the 
rest,  so  that  the  table  can  be  raised  or 
lowered  to  suit  the  work  in  hand. 

The  circular  saw  is  5  in.  in  diameter 
and  should  have  fine  teeth.  It  is  placed 
on  the  spindle  threads  against  the  nut, 
and  held  there  with  another  nut  and 
washer  on  the  end  of  the  spindle.  The 
table  is  attached  over  the  saw,  and  the 
spindle  is  driven  at  a  high  speed. 

The  planer  head  is  made  of  a  wood 
block,  9  in.  long  and  2%  in.  square.  A 
%-in.  hole  is  bored  through  one  way 
near  each  end,  as  shown  in  the  draw- 
ing, and  two  steel  knives,  with  i/2-in. 
holes  coinciding  with  the  %-in.  holes 
in  the  wood,  are  made  and  attached 
with  their  edges  opposite  or  projecting 
diagonally  from  the  corners.  The  holes 
in  the  knives  being  larger  than  the 
bolts,  makes  the  knives  adjustable  for 
setting  the  cutting  edges.  These  knives 
may  be  made  from  an  old  saw  Ijlade. 
ground  to  size  and  one  edge  beveled 
and  sharpened.  A  brass  plate,  with 
holes  to  lit  the  spur  center,  is  fastened 
in  the  center  of  the  block,  on  one  end, 
and  the  other  is  centered  for  the  cup 
of  the  tailstock  screw.  The  adjusting 
screw  for  the  table  is  used  to  regulate 
the  cut. 

The  sander  is  constructed  of  a  wood 
piece,  i)  in.  long  and  3%  in.  in  diameter. 
A  groove  is  cut  in  one  side  of  the 
rounding  surface  to  admit  the  ends  of 
the  abrasive  which  may  be  fastened 
there  with  tacks. 


451 


An  emery  wheel  can  be  used  on  the 
spindle  in  the  same  manner  as  the  cir- 
cular saw.  Procure  a  wheel,  5  in.  in 
diameter  with  a  V^-in.  face  and  having 
a  lead  center.  The  hole  should  be 
bored  out  and  tapped  to  fit  the  threads 
on  the  lathe  spindle,  and  to  have  the 
grinding  surface  run  true,  this  work 
should  be  done  in  a  lathe  by  a 
machinist. 

The  drawings  show  the  construction 
of  the  jig-saw  attachment.  The  stand- 
ard on  which  the  arms  are  pivoted  is 
made  of  a  Yo-'m.  bolt,  threaded  for  its 
entire  length  and  with  a  groove  cut  in 
the  head  and  nut  to  receive  the  arm 
pivots.  A  locknut  is  used  beneath  the 
notched  nut  to  hold  the  adjustment. 
Two  nuts  and  washers  are  used  near 
the  center  of  the  bolt  for  clamping  the 
attachment  to  the  table.  The  pivots 
are  made  of  sheet  metal,  bent  and 
drilled  as  shown.  The  small  projec- 
tion at  each  end  of  the  edge  is  raised 
slightly  by  hammering  the  corner  of 
the  metal.  These  projections  prevent 
the  arms  from  sliding  sideways.  The 
clamps  for  holding  the  ends  of  the  saw 
blades  are  easily  made  of  thin  sheet 
steel,  or  brass,  with  a  i\-in.  bolt  and 
washer  at  the  end  for  the  clamp.  The 
tension  of  the  blade  is  secured  by  a 
piece  of  wire,  an  eyebolt  and  a  thumb 
nut,  connecting  the  rear  ends  of  the 
arms  as  shown.  The  frame  is  driven 
by  the  spur  center.  The  pins  are  re- 
moved from  the  center  and  a  V^-'m.  pin 
is  inserted  in  one  of  the  holes  so  that 
it  will  project  %  in.  The  pin  runs  in 
a  slot  cut  in  a  brass  plate  that  is  at- 
tached to  the  lower  arm. 

Very  serviceable  tools  can  be  made 
of  discarded  files  by  grinding  them  to 
shape  on  the  emery  wheel.  Always 
use  a  fine  whetstone  to  finish  the  edge 
on  a  woodworking  tool. 

Hanging  a  Clothesline  Taut 

The  line  is  equipped  with  rings,  one 
at  each  end,  used  for  convenience  in 
quickly  hanging  the  line,  which  is  then 
drawn  taut  with  a  lever.  A  screwhook 
is  fastened  in  one  end  post  and  at  the 
other  end  a  screwhook  is  attached  to  a 


lever  which  is  pivoted  to  the  post. 
The  lever  should  be  about  3  ft.  long, 
1  in.  thick,  3  in.  wide  at  one  end,  and 


\>^ 


A  Lever  Attached  on  One  End  Post 

Makes    It   Easy   to   Draw 

the    Line   Taut 


iy2  iri-  wide  at  the  other,  or  handle, 
end.  A  large  wood  screw  is  used  to 
attach  it  to  the  post.  A  pin  is  placed 
in  the  post  to  hold  the  lever  when  the 
line  is  drawn  taut. — Contributed  by 
Warren  E.  Crane,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 


A    Double   Latch   for   a   Door 

This  latch  is  suitable  for  outbuild- 
ings, small  shops  and  sheds,  as  it  can 
be  opened  from 
both  sides  of  the 
door  and  is  eas- 
ily applied.  It 
consists  of  a  rod 
of  suitable  size 
which  is  bent  in 
the  shape  shown 
in  the  sketch  af- 
ter the  rod  is  in- 
serted through  a 

hole  bored  near  the  edge  of  the  door. 
The  spring  of  the  metal  will  hold  the 
catch  in  place. 


Maulstick  Used  as  a  Ruler 

Procure  a  cork  having  the  same 
diameter  as  the  knob  on  the  maulstick 
and  make  a  hole  in  the  center  so  that 

The  Sliding  Cork  and  Knob  Raises 

the    Stick    so    that    It    may 

be    Used  as   a   Ruler 


it  will  slide  on  the  stick.  This  is  very 
handy  for  using  the  stick  as  a  ruler,  as 
it  forms  a  sliding  rest. 


452 


Hinge  with  a  Wide  Swing 

In  constructing  a  box  I  needed  a 
hinge  that  would  carry  the  cover 
farther  away  from  the  top  than  the  or- 


The  Two  Bars  Provide  a  Way  to  Carry  the  Cover 
Away  from  the  Box 

dinary  double-leaf  hinge.  I  found  that 
two  pieces  of  i/4  by  %-in.  wrought  iron, 
attached  in  the  manner  shown,  an- 
swered the  purpose.  By  using  round- 
head screws  it  was  unnecessary  to 
countersink  the  metal. — Contributed 
by  James  M.  Kane,  Doylestown,  Pa. 


A  Detachable  Clamp  for  Stairway 
Handrails 

The  sketch  shows  a  handrail  clamp, 
or  holding  device,  which  is  detachable, 
for  use  on  stone  stairways  in  the  win- 
ter when  there  is  ice  or  snow  on  the 
steps.  The  clamps  are  made  of  yV-in. 
strap  iron,  of  any  desired  width,  con- 
forming to  the  shape  of  the  balustrade 
and  provided  with  a  hook  at  either 
end.  To  the  inside  end  of  the  band  an 
upright  is  riveted  and  to  this  upright 
is  riveted  an  ordinary  handrail  holder 
to  take  the  handrail.  A  heavy  thumb 
screw  allows  the  clamp  to  be  fastened 
firmly  to  the  balustrade  at  the  outside. 


A  Detachable  Handrail  for  Use  on  Stone  or 
Concrete  Stairways  during  Winter 

This  is  a  simple  and  inexpensive  de- 
vice which  affords  protection  against 
falls. — Contributed  by  John  De  La 
Mater,  Chicago,  III. 


A  Homemade  Leather  Punch 

An  empty  bottle-neck  rifle  cartridge 
can  be  easily  made  into  a  leather  punch 
by  grinding  the  edge  of  the  opening 
sharp  and  cutting  a  hole  near  the  top 
in  one  side.  The  hole  is  for  removing 
the  leather  slugs  and  should  be  just  a 
little  larger  in  diameter  than  the  inside 
diameter  of  the  shell.  The  cartridges 
can  be  had  in  various  sizes  and  almost 
any  size  of  punch  can  be  made. — Con- 
tributed by  Merhyle  F.  Spotts,  Shel- 
by, Ohio. 

A  Wood-Scraper  Handle 

In  using  a  plain  scraper  on  the  sur- 
face of  wood  the  task  grew  exceedingly 
tiresome  and  I  lightened  the  tedious 
work  to  some  extent  by  making  a  han- 
dle for  the  scraper.  The  handle  con- 
sisted of  a  piece  of  wood,  1  in.  thick, 
3  in.  wide,  and  6  in.  long.  A  cut  was 
made  in  the  edge  of  the  wood  the 
width  of  the  scraper  blade  and  about 
3  in.  deep,  and  a  bolt  run  through  a 
hole  bored  centrally  in  the  side,  about 


0 


A  Handle  Attached  to  a  Plain  Scraper  Blade 
Makes  the  Work  Much  Easier 

2M;  in.  from  the  lower  edge.  The  blade 
was  clamped  in  place  with  the  bolt. — 
Contributed  by  J.  D.  Keiley,  Yonkers, 
New  York. 

Polishing  Gunstocks 

The  fine  polish  applied  to  gunstocks 
and  wood  parts  of  tools  will  not  wear 
well,  and  if  one  cares  for  a  fine  finish, 
a  much  better  and  more  durable  polish 
can  be  applied  as  follows :  Soak  the 
wood  in  linseed  oil  for  a  week  and  then 
rub  the  surface  with  an  oil-soaked  cloth 
for  a  short  time  every  day,  for  a  couple 
of  weeks. 


453 


A  Prick-Punch  Center  Gauge 

A  simple  instrument  for  finding  and 
marking  the  center  of  shafting,  etc., 
can  be  easily  made  of  three  pieces  of 
sheet  brass  and  a  small  prick  punch. 


,A 

- 

V 

o 

O 

3 

The  Point  of  the  Punch  is  Quickly  Adjusted  to  the 
Center  of  the  Work 

Take  two  pieces  of  stiff  sheet  brass, 
21/2  by  3  in.  in  size,  and  cut  two  cor- 
ners, 14  in.  square,  out  at  one  end  of 
each  piece  as  shown  in  the  sketch. 
Bend  the  metal  on  the  dotted  line  A, 
until  it  stands  at  an  angle  of  45  deg. 
The  part  B  should  be  bent  up  in  the 
same  direction,  but  at  right  angles  to 
the  plate,  while  the  part  C  should  be 
bent  out  only  slightly.  A  hole  should 
be  drilled  near  each  corner  for  rivets. 
Be  sure  that  the  two  plates  are  bent  in 
opposite  directions,  then  rivet  them 
firmly  together. 

Roll  one  end  of  a  strip  of  sheet  brass, 
XF  in.  wide  and  2%  in.  long,  into  a  tube 
large  enough  to  firmly  hold  a  small 
steel  prick  punch.  Place  the  opposite 
end  of  the  brass  strip  in  between  the 
two  ends  C.  These  ends  should  spring 
together  slightly  in  order  to  hold  the 
punch  D  at  any  height  it  may  be 
placed.  If  accurately  made,  the  point 
of  the  punch  will  be  exactly  in  the 
center  of  the  V-shaped  trough. 

In  use,  to  find  and  mark  the  center 
of  a  round  bar,  it  is  placed  in  the 
trough  with  the  end  just  touching  the 
point  of  the  punch.  The  brass  holding 
the  punch  is  raised  between  the  parts  C 
until  the  point  of  the  punch  is  brought 
as  near  to  the  center  of  the  shaft  as  can 
be  judged.  Press  the  point  of  the 
punch  against  the  end  of  the  shaft  and 
turn  the  latter  in  the  trough.  If  the 
punch  marks  a  circle  the  center  has  not 
been  found.  This  is  corrected  by 
slowly  moving  the  punch  up  or  down 
until  the  point  ceases  to  make  a  circle, 
then  the  punch  is  tapped  with  a  ham- 
mer to  mark   the  exact  center. 


A  Whirligig  Clapper 

A  good  noise  maker  for  Halloween 
or  any  other  occasion,  can  be  made  b> 
carefully  following  the  directions  here 
given.  The  box  is  the  first  thing  to 
make.  It  is  constructed"  of  v/ood 
pieces,  i/>  in.  thick,  and  consists  of  two 
ends  and  two  sides.  The  ends  are  each 
11/^  in.  square  and  the  sides  ly^  in. 
wide  and  6  in.  long.  These  parts  are 
nailed  together  with  the  ends  lapping 
the  sides. 

The  ratchet  wheel  A  is  a  disk  of 
hard  wood,  li^  in.  in  diameter.  Its 
rim  is  divided  into  eight  equal  parts, 
and  notched  with  a  knife  as  shown. 
It  is  placed  in  the  forward  end  of  the 
box  on  a  wood  axle  of  %-in.  diameter 
to  which  it  is  glued.  One  end  of  this 
axle  is  squared  and  projects  1  in.  be- 
yond the  side  of  the  box.  The  squared 
end  passes  through  a  square  hole  in 
the  end  of  the  crank  C,  which  is  a 
piece  of  wood  %  in.  thick,  1  in.  wide 
and  4  in.  long,  and  is  fastened  with 
brads  and  glue.  At  the  other  end  of 
the  crank,  a  similar  hole  connects  with 
a  handle  whittled  to  the  shape  shown 
at  B. 

A  flat  piece  of  steel  spring,  i/,  in. 
wide  and  long  enough  to  reach  from 
the  rear  end  of  the  box  to  the  teeth  of 
the  ratchet  wheel,  is  shaped  as  shown 
at  D.  The  spring  may  be  made  from 
a  stiff  piece  of  corset  steel  or  bicycle 


Detail  of  the  Parts  and  How  They  are  Assembled 
to  Make  the  Clapper 

trousers  guard.  The  spring  is  fastened 
with  a  nail  through  the  end  and  box 
sides  and  a  second  nail  passes  through 
the  sides  over  the  spring,  about  2  in. 
forward  from  the  first  nail.  This  is  to 
give  the  spring  tension  on  the  teeth. 
To  operate  the  clapper,  it  is  allowed 


454 


to  hang  straight  down,  while  the  right 
hand  grasps  the  handle  and  whirls  the 
box  in  a  circle  around  to  the  left. — 
Contributed  by  C.  C.  Fraser. 


Box  Partitions 

As  I  needed  a  box  with  a  number  of 
narrow  partitions  and  it  was  impossi- 


Grooves  for  the  Partitions  Made  with  the  Use  of 
Small,  Thin  Strips  of  Wood 

ble  to  cut  grooves  for  the  sections 
without  removing  the  bottom,  I  spaced 
off  the  places  for  the  partitions  with 
pieces  of  thin  wood  and  fastened  these 
in  place  with  small  nails  clinched  on 
the  outside  of  the  box.  This  method 
was  much  more  rapid  and  satisfactory 
than  sawing  the  grooves  and  cutting 
them  out  with  a  wood  chisel. — Contrib- 
uted by  James  M.  Kane. 


Safety  Catch  for  a  Flour  Bin 

A     flour    bin,     counterbalanced     to 
swing  closed  at  all  times,  is  liable  to 


Automatically  Operated  Catch  to  Hold  a  Flour  Bin 
Out  While  Taking  Flour  from  It 

catch  the  arm  of  the  one  taking  out 
flour.  To  make  it  safe,  I  applied  the 
device  shown  in  the  sketch.  The  bin, 
at  rest,  is  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  safety 
catch  consists  of  a  stick  of  wood.  A, 


notched  at  one  end,  and  is  pivoted  at 
B  on  a  small  bolt.  Two  stops,  C  and 
D,  are  located  on  the  side  of  the  box  to 
prevent  the  catch  from  being  thrown 
out  of  position  when  the  bin  is  quickly 
pulled  out.  These  stops  are  nails 
driven  into  the  box  side.  When  the 
bin  is  pulled  out  the  catch  takes  the 
position  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  catch 
stick  should  be  a  little  shorter  than 
the  distance  the  bin  is  pulled  out,  so 
that  it  may  be  raised  to  release  the  bin 
for  its  return. — Contributed  by  O.  F. 
Fouche,  Erie,  Pa. 


A  Homemade  Whistle 

Procure  two  empty  No.  30  gauge 
brass  cartridge  shells.  Cut  one  shell 
%  in.  shorter  than  the  other,  then  flat- 
ten and  bend  them  as  shown  in  the 
sketch.  The  mouthpiece  should  be  at 
an  angle  of  60  deg.  File  a  slot,  ^^  in. 
in  width,  about  i^  in.  from  the  end. 
File  ofT  the  flange  on  the  shorter  shell 
so   that   it   will   fit   snuglv   against   the 


The  Tapering  End  of  a  Cartridge  Shell  is  Flattened 
and  Bent  to  Make  a  Whistle 

side  of  the  other  and  solder  them  to- 
gether. A  ring  may  be  soldered  on  the 
end  of  the  long  shell  to  fasten  it  on  a 
chain  or  string.  To  give  the  whistle 
a  shrill  sound  place  a  large  shot  in  each 
shell  before  flattening  them. — Con- 
tributed by  Peter  Veneman,  Paterson, 
New  Jersey. 


How  to  Emboss  Stationery 

A  person's  monogram  or  any  special 
lettering  embossed  on  stationery  is 
quite  expensive.  The  engraving  of  the 
dies  by  experts  commanding  high  sal- 
aries, and  the  subsequent  presswork 
necessary  to  give  relief  to  the  design 
upon  the  paper  cause  an  expense 
which  the  economical  person  hesitates 
to  accept,  much  as  the  refinement  and 
individuality    of    the    embossed    work 


455 


may  be  admired.  But  there  is  a  way 
by  which  ahnost  anyone  may  emboss 
stationery  at  home  with  one's  own  de- 
sign at  no  expense  whatever.  The 
work  is  easy  and  the  results  pleasing, 
and  monograms  or  lettering  thus  done 
will  compare  very  favorably  with  the 
printer's  work,  especially  if  there  is  a 
good  design  to  follow  and  the  work  is 
done  with  care.  A  little  artistic  ability 
will,  of  course,  aid  one  in  preparing  a 
design,  but  is  not  essential,  for  the  let- 
ters required  may  be  cut  from  printed 
matter  and  used  as  a  guide  for  trac- 
ing. There  is  no  limit  to  the  varieties 
of  work  possible  by  this  process.  Sin- 
gle letters,  monograms,  words  or  de- 
signs are  suitable  for  reproduction  in 
raised  characters. 

All  the  materials  required  for  em- 
bossing the  stationery  are  the  enve- 
lope or  paper  on  which  the  design  is 
to  appear,  a  stylus  and  a  blotter.  The 
paper  should  be  of  fair  quality.  If  it 
is  too  thin  the  stylus  point  is  likely  to 
push  through  it.  The  linen-finished 
papers  of  medium  weight  and  tough 
texture  give  excellent  results,  although 
almost  any  grade  of  good  writing 
paper  can  be  used  successfully.  As 
embossing  by  this  process  can  be  done 
well  only  through  one  thickness  of 
paper,  in  working  on  envelopes  it  is 
best  to  put  the  design  on  the  central 
portion  of  the  flap,  or  turn  it  up  and 
make  the  design  in  the  left-hand  cor- 
ner of  the  envelope. 

The  stylus  may  be  any  kind  of  a 
pencil-like  instrument,  easy  to  grip  be- 
tween the  fingers,  with  a  hard,  smooth 
point,  rounded  slightly  so  that  it  will 
not  cut  the  paper.  The  ordinary  bone 
stiletto,  used  in  embroidering,  makes 
an  ideal  tool  for  this  purpose.  If  this 
is  not  to  be  had,  a  substitute  is  easily 
whittled  from  a  piece  of  hard  wood. 
Even  a  wire  nail,  with  its  point 
smoothed  with  a  file,  may  be  used,  the 
upper  portion  being  wound  with  string 
to  afiford  a  better  grip. 

The  blotter  should  be  white,  per- 
fectly clean,  and  of  good  weight.  A 
thin,  hard  blotter  will  not  produce  a 
good  raised  letter  as  a  softer  one  will. 
When  the  surface  of  a  blotter  has  be- 


come covered  with  creases  from  re- 
peated use,  it  should  be  discarded  and 
a  new  one  substituted. 

As  it  is  best  to  adopt  a  distinctive 
form  of  monogram  or  design  for  sta- 
tionery and  to  use  it  without  deviation, 
it  should  be  selected  or  worked  up  with 
care  until  something  is  outlined  that 
will  suit.  With  the  design  settled  upon 
and  drawn  on  a  piece  of  paper,  go  over 


Manner  of  Holding  the  Stylus  When  Tracing  the 
Design  on  the  Back  Side  of  the  Paper 

it  with  a  soft  pencil  to  deposit  suffi- 
cient graphite  for  an  impression.  Lay 
the  pattern,  face  down,  upon  the  back 
of  the  paper  to  be  embossed,  and  di- 
rectly opposite  the  spot  on  the  other 
side  where  the  raised  characters  are 
to  appear.  With  the  handle  of  a  knife 
or  scissors  rub  over  the  back  of  the 
pattern  till  the  graphite  has  left  the 
tracing  of  the  design  reversed  on 
the  writing  paper. 

The  pattern  is  now  laid  aside  until 
required  for  transferring  the  design  to 
another  sheet  of  writing  paper.  Lay 
the  blotter  on  some  smooth,  hard  sur- 
face, such  as  a  desk  leaf  or  table  top 
and  lay  the  writing  paper  on  the  blot- 
ter, reversed  design  uppermost.  Hold 
the  stylus  firmly  at  an  angle  as  shown 
in  the  illustration  and  keep  the  blotter 
and  paper  from  moving  with  the  other 
hand.  Carefully  trace  the  design,  using 
considerable  pressure  to  insure  a  good 
relief  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
paper.  A  soft  eraser  should  be  used 
to  remove  the  guide  marks  on  the  back 
of  the  sheet  when  the  relief  is  finished. 

After  a  little  practice  with  a  certain 
design,  if  it  is  not  too  intricate,  the 
operator  will  find  that  it  can  be  repro- 
duced quite  faithfully  freehand,  with- 
out the  use  of  the  pattern,  but,  of 
course,  the  use  of  the  pattern  will  be 
the  only  guarantee  of  exact  duplicates. 


456 


V 


A   Homemade   Hydrometer 

The    hydrometer    is    an    instrument 
used  in  determining  the  specific  gravity 
of  a  liquid,  such  as  acids,  etc.    The  spe- 
cific   gravity    of 
any    material    is 
the   ratio   of   the 
weights  of  equal 
volumes    of    the 
material   and 
water.      Thus    if 
a    pint    of    acid 
weighs  1.2  times 
a  pint  of  water, 
its  specific  grav- 
ity   is    said    to 
be  1.2. 
A   very  simple  and   inexpensive  hy- 
drometer, similar  to  the  one  shown  in 
the  sketch,  may  be  easily  constructed, 
and  will  give  quite  satisfactory  results, 
if  the  scale  on  the  instrument  is  care- 
fully marked  when  it  is  calibrated. 

Purchase  from  the  local  druggist  or 
doctor  two  test  tubes,  one  large  enough 
to  contain  the  other,  as  shown.  The 
smaller  tube  is  to  form  the  hydrometer 
proper,  while  the  larger  one  is  to  serve 
as  a  containing  vessel  in  which  the 
liquid  to  be  tested  is  placed.  The  large 
tube  should  be  mounted  in  a  vertical 
position,  by  placing  it  in  a  hole  bored 
in  a  small  block  of  wood,  or  a  suitable 
metal  or  wooden  frame  may  be  made 
that  will  accommodate  one  or  more 
tubes. 

The  small  tube  is  loaded  at  the  lower 
end  with  a  quantity  of  shot,  or  other 
heavy  metal,  in  such  a  way  that  it 
will  stand  in  a  vertical  position  when 
it  is  placed  in  a  vessel  of  water.  The 
amount  of  the  loading  will  depend 
upon  whether  the  hydrometer  is  to 
be  used  in  determining  the  specific 
gravity  of  liquids  heavier  or  lighter 
than  water.  If  the  liquids  are  heavier 
than  water,  the  loading  should  be  such 
that  the  tube  is  almost  entirely  im- 
mersed when  placed  in  water;  if 
lighter,  only  sufficient  loading  should 
be  used  to  make  the  tube  stand  upright 
in  water.  After  the  amount  of  loading 
has  been  determined  it  should  be  fas- 
tened  in   place   by   means   of   a   small 


quantity  of  calcined  plaster.  A  small 
cork  should  now  be  placed  in  the  open 
end  of  the  tube,  and  the  tube  sealed 
by  coating  the  end  with  shellac,  or 
melting  a  small  quantity  of  resin  or 
sealing  wax  over  the  top  of  the  cork 
with  a  hot  soldering  iron. 

Now  place  in  the  large  tube  a  quan- 
tity of  as  pure  water  as  can  be  ob- 
tained— fresh  rain  water  will  answer 
very  well  and  distilled  water  still  better. 
Immerse  the  small  tube  in  the  water 
in  the  large  tube  and  allow  it  to  come 
to  rest.  Make  a  small  mark  on  the 
small  tube  with  a  file,  level  with  the 
surface  of  the  water  in  the  large  tube. 
If  the  hydrometer  is  placed  in  a  liquid 
lighter  than  water  and  allowed  to  float, 
the  mark  made  on  the  tube  will  alwaj's 
be  below  the  surface  of  the  liquid  in 
which  the  instrument  is  placed,  and  the 
mark  will  be  above  the  surface  of  the 
liquid  when  the  liquid  is  heavier  than 
water. 

The  hydrometer  may  be  calibrated 
by  making  use  of  a  hydrometer  bor- 
rowed from  the  druggist  or  doctor. 
The  two  hydrometers  should  be  im- 
mersed in  the  same  liquid  and  the 
tube  of  the  newly  made  instrument 
marked  to  correspond  with  the  mark- 
ings on  the  borrowed  instrument.  If 
the  liquid  is  heavier  than  water  to  start 
with,  its  specific  gravity  can  be  reduced 
by  adding  water,  and  as  the  water  is 
added  the  hydrometers  will  both  rise. 


A  Stirring  Stick 

The  stirring,  or  mixing,  stick  shown 
in  the  sketch  deserves  its  name, 
as  it  will  stir  evenly  all  the  way  around. 
It  consists  of  two  flat  sticks,  one  two- 
thirds   the  width   of  the  other,   which 


A  Flat  Surface  Strikes  the  Liquid  No  Matter 
Which  Way  the  Stick  is  Moved 

are  nailed  together  as  shown.  The 
narrow  one  is  only  long  enough  to 
enter  the  depth  of  the  liquid. — Con- 
tributed by  Frank  J.  Rempe,  Oakland, 
California. 


457 


A  Telescoping  Support  for  a  Hinged 
Shelf 

The  supporting  arm  of  the  hinged 
shelf  is  constructed  of  a  piece  of  gas 
pipe  and  a  length   of  iron   rod   which 


When  the  Shelf  is  Lowered 

the  Support  Telescopes 

and  is  Out  of  the  Way 

slides  snugly  into  the 
pipe.  A  spring  catch 
is  set  in  the  pipe  at 
the  proper  height  to 
engage  the  end  of 
the  iron  rod  when 
the  shelf  is  up.  This 
spring  must  be  of 
good  size,  as  it  holds 
the  entire  weight  of  the  shelf.  A  large 
clock  spring  is  suitable.  One  end  of 
the  spring  is  bent  outward  and  up- 
ward to  form  a  releasing  handle.  The 
other  end  is  drilled  for  the  two  ma- 
chine screws  which  hold  it  to  the  pipe. 
The  spring  works  in  a  rectangular  slot, 
cut  lengthwise  of  the  pipe.  The  pipe 
must  extend  8  or  10  in.  beyond  the 
spring.  The  ends  of  the  rod  and  of 
the  pipe  are  pivoted  with  screws  or 
rivets  on  angle  pieces  screwed  to  the 
shelf  and  wall. — Contributed  by  Don- 
ald A.  Price,  Wilmington,  Del. 


A  Bug  Powder 

To  secure  a  nonpoisonous  roach  and 
bug  powder  mix  dry  3  lb.  plaster  of 
Paris  with  2  lb.  of  sugar,  then  add  1 
oz.  of  pulverized  aniseed.  The  addi- 
tion of  a  little  corn  meal  will  help  to 
draw  the  pests. — Contributed  by  Lor- 
en  Ward,  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 


How    the    Capacity    of    an    Incubator 
may  be  Doubled 

About  10  days  after  setting  the  in- 
cubator one  may  easily  start  another 
hatch  by  placing  more  eggs  on  top  of 
the  incubator  in  the  following  manner: 
Make  a  pad  about  1  in.  thick  of  any  cot- 
ton material  and  place  it  on  top  of  the 
incubator.  Cut  four  pieces  of  boards, 
1  by  4  in.,  and  fit  them  aroinid  the  top 
of  the  incubator.  Nail  them  together 
as  in  making  the  sides  and  ends  of  a 
box.  Pad  the  inside  of  this  frame 
about  1  in.  thick  and  tack  it  on  top  of 
the  incubator,  being  careful  that  none 
of  the  material  comes  too  close  to  the 
lamp.  Place  the  eggs  inside  of  this 
tray  and  cover  them  with  a  pad  about 
3  in.  thick.  Turn  the  eggs  the  same 
as  those  on  the  inside.  When  the  first 
hatch  comes  out,  place  the  eggs  kept 
on  top  in  the  incubator  after  having 
cleaned  it  with  a  solution  of  carbolic 
acid. — Contributed  by   Hattie  J.   Day. 


Homemade  Rivet  Set 

Desiring  to  rivet  some  pieces  of 
leather  together  and  having  no  rivet 
set,  I  hastily  made  one  from  a  strip 
of  heavy  sheet  tin,  %  in.  wide.  This 
was  rolled  at  one  end,  as  shown  in 
the  sketch,  and  the  other  end  notched 
to  fit  over  the  rivet  end.     The  rolled 


A  Strip  of  Tin  Shaped  to  Take  the  Place 
of  a  Rivet  Set 

end  formed  the  part  for  setting  the 
washer  and  the  slotted  end  held  the 
washer  down  while  the  first  blows  of 
the  hammer  were   struck. 


458 


with     a 
piece     of 


Wash  Bottle  for  Laboratory  Use 

A  large-mouth  bottle  neck  is  pro- 
vided with  a  stopper,  having  three 
brass    or   glass    tubes    as    shown,    the 

tube      A      being 

fitted 

thick 

rubber       tubin_ 

B,  stoppered  at 
its  lower  end. 
A   slit   is   cut   at 

C,  and  allows 
the  air  blown 
in  through  the 
tube  A  to  pass 
into  the  bottle, 
but     will      close 

automatically    and    hold    the    pressure 
within  the  bottle. 

If  the  relief  tube  D  is  closed  with 
the  thumb  the  water  is  forced  out  in 
a  steady  stream  through  the  nozzle  E. 
The  water  will  continue  to  run  for 
some  time  after  the  lips  are  removed 
from  the  air  tul^e,  but  the  removal  of 
the  thumb  from  the  tube  D  will  stop 
the  flow  of  water  instantly. — Con- 
tributed by  W.  Schilling,  San  Fran- 
cisco, Cal. 


Typewriting  on  Card  Stock 

Anyone  having  tried  to  typewrite  on 
cards  or  heavy  stock  has  doubtless  ex- 
perienced much  trouble  in  getting  the 
card  to  feed  properly.  If  at  all  heavy, 
it  will  resist  the  curving  so  strongly 
that  it  will  not  be  carried  around  the 
platen,  and  the  edge  of  the  card  is  very 
apt  to  catch  on  the  pressure  rolls  and 
cause  the  platen  to  slip. 

The  remedy  is  very  simple  and  con- 
sists in  running  a  sheet  of  paper 
through  ahead  of  the  card  until  an 
edge  of  about  V2  ii.  remains,  then  in- 
serting the  edge  of  the  card  inside  of 
the  projecting  edge  of  the  paper  and 
turning  the  platen.  The  paper  over- 
lapping the  card  prevents  the  edge  of 
the  latter  from  catching  on  the  pres- 
sure rolls  and  keeps  it  in  close  contact 
with  the  platen  so  that  it  will  pass 
through  without  trouble. — Contributed 
by  Thos.  L.  Parker,  St.  Paul,  Minn. 


A  Furniture  Polish 

A  homemade  furniture  polish  that 
will  compare  with  any  known  polish, 
is  composed  of  the  following  chemicals 
and  oils.  Mix  3  oz.  of  turpentine  very 
gradually  with  6  oz.  of  linseed  oil, 
then  add  3  oz.  of  grain  alcohol,  3  oz. 
of  5-per-cent  acetic  acid,  and  I/2  oz.  of 
butter  of  antimony.  Apply  with  a 
cloth  and  use  a  good  friction.  As  the 
substance  might  prove  harmful  to 
children  if  taken  internally,  see  that  it 
is  kept  out  of  their  reach. — Contrib- 
uted by  Loren  Ward,  Des  Moines, 
Iowa. 

Pointed    End    on    a    Hoe 

The  rounding  end  on  the  ordinary 
hoe  is  useless 
in  many  in- 
stances for  get- 
ting under 
growing  plants, 
to  cut  out  the 
weeds  and  to 
loosen  up  the 
earth.  I  find 
that  shaping 
the  hoe  ends 
as  shown  in  the 
sketch  is  very  effective  in  getting  up 
close  to  a  plant  and  under  spreading 
vines. — Contributed  by  R.  F.  Pohle, 
E  Lynn,  Mass. 


Starting    a    Siphon 
Roll   up  a   soft  rubber  hose  tightly 
so  that  it  will  be  flattened  to  force  out 
all     the     air     and 
drop  one  end  into 
the  liquid,  then  let 
the  coil  unwind  as 
it    falls    down    on 
the    outside.     The 
uncoiling  causes  a 
slight   vacuum    in 
the   hose  and   the 
liquid    follows    it 
up  and  starts  the 
flow  instantly. — Contributed  by   L.  J. 
Monahan,  Oshkosli,  Wis. 


C Paint  sjjots  on  window  glass  can  be 
readily  removed  with  a  penny. 


459 


A  Homemade  Blowtorch 

The  torch  shown  in  the  sketch  re- 
quires no  air  pump.  Instead  of  forcing 
a  small  stream  of  gasoline  into  a  heated 
,^  burner  it  con- 
^  verts    the    gaso- 

line into  gas  in 
the  chamber  and 
blows  a  small 
jet  of  it  through 
a  very  small  hole 
into  the  combus- 
tion chamber. 
A  medium- 
sized  and  strong  oilcan  is  used  for  the 
reservoir,  the  spout  being  cut  off  close 
to  the  screw  part  and  a  steel  or  brass 


tube,    about 


in.    in    diameter,    sol- 


dered to  the  stub  end.  The  tube  is 
bent  as  shown.  A  piece  of  wicking  is 
drawn  into  the  tube  so  that  the  upper 
end  is  within  %  i"-  of  the  tube  end. 
The  end  of  the  tube  is  then  fitted  with 
a  piece  of  brass  rod  with  a  very  small 
hole  in  the  center.  The  hole  is  made  in 
the  following  manner:  Before  the 
piece  is  cut  from  the  rod,  it  is  held  in 
a  vise  and  the  sharp  end  of  a  scriber 
is  carefully  driven  into  the  center.  A 
little  oil  placed  on  the  scriber  point 
will  keep  it  from  sticking  in  the  metal. 
Measure  the  depth  of  the  hole  and  cut 
the  rod  off  just  above  the  point.  File 
the  end  of  the  piece  cut  off  with  a  fine 
file  until  the  point  of  the  hole  is 
reached.  This  hole  must  be  so  small 
that  light  can  be  barely  seen  through  it. 

The  combustion  chamber  is  made  of 
a  piece  of  brass  tubing  driven  over  the 
end  of  the  smaller  tube  on  the  spout. 
About  1/2  i"-  from  the  back  end  of  the 
larger  tube  four  or  more  holes  are 
drilled  to  admit  air  to  the  gas. 

Fill  the  can  about  three-fourths  full 
of  gasoline  and  allow  time  for  the  wick 
to  become  saturated  to  the  upper  end. 
Hold  a  lighted  match  to  the  rear  of 
the  burner,  and  the  heat  will  convert 
the  gasoline  into  gas  which  will  then 
burn  with  a  nice  white  flame  about  1 
in.  long.  The  success  of  the  torch  de- 
pends altogether  on  the  fineness  of  the 
hole  in  the  end  of  the  tube  and  the 
tight  soldering  of  all  the  joints. 


A  Rule  Gauge 

The  method  of  using  the  thvmb  as  a 
gauge  on  a  rule  in  scribing  long  boards 
is  not  always  satisfactory,  especially 
if  the  board  has  a  rough  edge.  It  is 
always  best  to  have  a  regular  gauge, 
but  in  the  absence  of  one,  an  attach- 
ment for-  an  ordinary  carpenter's  rule 
can  be  quickly  made  from  a  piece  of 
tin,  although  one  made  of  sheet  brass 
is  better,  in  appearance  as  well  as  for 
service.  Cut  out  the  metal,  as  shown 
by  the  dimensions,  and  roll  the  two 
sides  up,  stopping  at  the  dotted  lines. 
The  ends  A  and  B  are  turned  out 
slightly  so  that  they  will  slide  easily 
along  the  edge  of  the  board.  The 
gauge  will  snap  on  a  rule  easily  and 


Gauge  Made  of  Sheet  Metal  Which  will  Easily 
Snap  on  a  Carpenter's  Rule 

will  Stay  where  it  is  placed. — Con- 
tributed by  H.  J.  Blacklidge,  San  Ra- 
fael, Cal. 


A  Match  Holder 

The  holder  consists  of  a  small  box, 
the  same  size  as  a  match  box,  with  a 
sloping  spring  bottom  and  spring  wires 
covering  the 
lower  part  of 
the  front  side. 
One  end  of  the 
match  box  is  re- 
moved and  the 
contents  dumped 
into  the  holder. 
The  matches  fall 
to  the  lower 
sloping  edge, 
where  one  match 
at  a  time  can  be 
easily  removed. 
—  C  o  n  t  r  i  b- 
uted  by  Bert  Verne,  San  Diego,  Cal. 


460 


Trick  Bottles  and  Glasses 

By  GEORGE  W.  GATLIN 


The  performer  presents  to  his  au- 
dience two  pastehoard  covers,  one  bot- 
tle   and    one    glass.       Saying    that    he 


press  by  using  a  round  copper  tube, 
with  fine  emery  applied  to  its  end,  as 
a  drill.     The  hole  should  be  so  placed 


Under  Each  Cover  Used  Is  a  Bottle  and  Glass,  and  by  Pinching  the  Cover  the  Bottle  is  Made  to  Rise 
with  It,  Thus  Leaving  the  Glass  in  View 


wishes  to  secure  the  safety  of  the  bot- 
tle and  glass,  he  places  covers  over 
them,  cautioning  the  audience  to  note 
carefully  which  cover  incloses  the 
glass  and  which  the  bottle.  Then  he 
says  that,  to  prevent  any  misunder- 
standing as  to  their  positions,  it  is  de- 
sired the  audience  designate  which 
cover  holds  the  glass.  The  response 
will  be  unanimous,  "the  left"  or  "the 
right"  as  the  case  may  be,  but  on  rais- 
ing that  cover  the  bottle  is  exposed. 
Covering  the  liottle  again,  and  asking 
the  audience  if  they  were  quite  sure 
that  their  eyes  did  not  deceive  them, 
he  states  that  the  glass  is  really  under 
the  cover  just  lifted  and  returned  to  its 
place.  To  pro\-e  it,  the  cover  is  lifted 
again,  to  show  the  glass  this  time.  The 
changing  can  be  done  as  often  as  de- 
sired, or  will  amuse  the  crowd. 

The  secret  of  the  trick  consists  in 
the  use  of  two  covers,  two  bottles  and 
two  glasses,  and  the  manner  of  per- 
forming it  is  as  follows :  The  bottles 
are  bottomless  and  of  such  size  as  to 
admit  the  glass  without  sticking.  A 
round  hole  is  cut  in  one  side  of  each 
bottle,  about  21/2  in.  above  the  bottom. 
This   can   be   accomplished   in   a   drill 


that  a  finger  will  strike  the  top  of  the 
glass  when  l)oth  bottle  and  glass  are 
set  on  the  same  surface.  If  dark-colored 
bottles  are  used,  a  false  bottom  can 
be  made  and  fitted  in  each  bottle  above 
the  upper  edge  of  the  glass.  This  bot- 
tom can  be  cemented  in  place  and  made 
liquid-tight,  so  that  some  wine  may  be 
placed  in  the  bottle  and  poured  into 
the  opposite  glass  to  show  that  it  holds 
liquid.  In  doing  this  part  of  the  trick, 
make  no  more  changes  with  the  wine  in 
one  glass. 

Under  each  cover  is  a  bottle  and 
tumbler,  and  by  pinching  the  cover, 
the  bottle  is  made  to  rise  with  it,  thus 
leaving  the  tumbler  in  view.  When  it 
is  necessary  to  show  the  bottle,  just 
raise  the  cover,  and  the  bottle  covers 
the  glass.  When  the  bottle  is  lifted 
from  the  table,  the  thumb  is  inserted 
in  the  hole  to  press  the  tumbler 
against  the  opposite  side,  where  it  is 
held  and  raised  with  the  bottle.  Be 
sure  to  keep  the  side  of  the  bottles  with 
the  hole  back  and  away  from  the  au- 
dience. 

It  will  1)6  seen  that  it  matters  not 
which  co\er  is  mentioned  ;  the  perform- 
er can  show  just  the  article  he  desires. 


GKNTRAL  CIRCULATION 

OHILDKEN'S    ROOM 


CONTENTS 


Accounts,  Home,  Way  to  Keep 282 

Acid  Siphon     222 

Acid   iStains,   Removing   from   Cloth 196 

Addressing  a  Roll   of  Papers 369 

Advertising  Lantern   Slides,  How   to  Make..  417 

Aerial  Propeller,  Model  Boat  with 207 

Aeroplane,  Flying  Model,   for  Display 361 

Aeroplane  Frames,    Braces    for 235 

Aeroplane  Kite    Ill 

Aeroplane,  Model,    Joints    for 275 

Air  Pencil   to  Make  Embossed  Letters 29 

Air  Pressure,  Relieving,  When  Closing  Rec-  . 

ord    Boxes    57 

Alarm  Clock,   Mission   Frame   for 277 

Alarm,    Doorbell     160 

Alarm,  Drip-Pan    178 

Alarm,  Fire  and   Burglar,  How   to  Make....  411 

Alarm  for  Sleepwalker    297 

Alarm,  Temperature    345 

Alarm  to  Designate  Filled  Storage  Battery.  253 

Amateur  Mechanic's  Combination   Lathe.  .  .  .  447 

Amperage   of  Fuse  Wire,  Reducing 322 

Anchor  Posts   for   Lawn  Swing 148 

Anemometer,   Electric    367 

Angling    59,    69,    73,  79 

Anti-Tangle    Safety   Pin 272 

Ants,   To  Keep  Away  from   Food 361 

Application    for   Small    Wounds 304 

Arbor,   Grape,    Built   of   Poles 12 

Arm,    Pincushion    for 288 

Armatures  for    Small    Motors 124 

Armatures,  Small,    Holding   for   Winding....  118 

Arrow    Sticks,    Planing 319 

Arts-Crafts  Leather  Work; 

Part    1 432 

Part  II 439 

Aspirator,  How  to  Make 146 

Atmospheric   Thermo   Engine    120 

Attractor   for  Game   Fish 97 

Automatic   Valve    for   Funnel 317 

Automobile,     Gasoline    Consumption     of.    To 

Reduce     436 

Automobile    Robe,    How    to    Make 122 

Awning,   Combined   Shade  and 164 

Babbitt  Metal,  Cores  for  Use  in 304 

Back,    Attached,    for    Photographic    Printing 

Frame    413 

Back   Stop    for    Workbench 225 

Back  Thrust  Prevented  on  Skis 216 

Bag,   Clothespin    42 

Bait,  Live,  Pail    178 

Bait,  Live,  Used  in  Fishing 261 

Baking    Bread    in    Hot    Sand 53 

Baking  Ovens,  To  Prevent    from  Scorching.  298 

Baking-Pan  Shoes,  Adjustable 129 

Balance,   Simple    395 

Ball  Catch  for  Cabinet  Doors.  Homemade...  72 

Ball-Clasp  Purse,  Repairing  Broken 316 

Balloons,    Toy,    Inflating 167 

Bamboo  Pole,  Uses   for 173 

Bank,  Homemade  Toy 366 

Barn  Tools,   Hangers   for 155 

Barometer,    Electric-Light    Bulb   as 280 

Barrel  Boat    445 

Baseball   Game,   Indoor 275 

Basement  Light,  Lighting 156 

Bases  for  Electric  Apparatus,  Varnishing...  324 

Basin,   Freezing  to  Chair 431 

Basket,  A  Reed   257 

Basket,  Waste-Paper     320 

Basketball,    Removing    from    Closed-Bottom 

Receptacle    266 

Bathroom  Light,  To  Operate  Automatically.  56 

Bathtubs,  Removing  Black  Deposit  on 190 

Batteries,  Dry,  Preserving    192 

Batteries,  Dry,   Renewing    382 

Batteries,  Dry,    Testing    266 

Battery,   Homemade   Wet 340 

Bearings  for  Model  Work 238 

Bed  for   a   Camp 133 

Bed    Pocket,   Utility   Home   or   Traveling....  400 

Bed  Warmer,   Homemade   Electric 154 

Bed-Cover  Fasteners    55 

Bedroom    Cabinet     163 

Bell,  Continuously  Ringing,  How  to  Make..  381 
Bell-Ringing  Transformer,   Small,   Construc- 
tion   of    348,  352 

Bells,  Call,  Simple  Methods  of  Connecting.  .  356 


Belt,  Cartridge,  How  to  Make 55 

Belts,  Round,  Splice   for 446 

Bench,  Attacliing   Vise  Jaw   to 176 

Bench,  Lathe    22 

Bench,  Molding — Sawing    Block   Used   on....  408 

Bench  Stop,    Adjustable    325 

Bench  Stop   for  Planing  Thin  Boards 254 

Bench  Vise,   Homemade    149,  244 

Bench  with  Folding  Seats 158 

Bench-Vise  Nut,  Broken,  Substitute  for 143 

Bicycle  Horn,    Mechanical    195 

Bicycle  Oil  Lamp  Changed  to  Electric  Light  78 

Bicycle  Sprocket,    Rear,    Removing 413 

Bicycle  Wheel,   Roller   Skate   on 201 

Binding  Machine,    Lantern-Slide    207 

Binding  Magazines    50 

Binding  I^osts    on    Wet    Batteries,    Protect- 
ing   from    Corrosion 252 

Bird  Cages,  Seed   Receptacle  for 147 

Birds,  Turn  Feeding  Table  tor 137 

Black  Deposit   on   Bathtubs,   Removing 190 

Black,    Dull,    for    Cameras 163 

Blackboard    for    Children 51 

Blades,  Jig-Saw    442 

Blades,  Razor,  Discarded  Wafer,  Use  for....  124 

Blank    Books,    Ruling 290 

Bleaching  Ivory    175 

Block,    Whetting    375 

Blocks,  Falling,   How   to  Make 392 

Blocks  of  Wood,  Small,  To  Harden 423 

Blowgun,  How  to  Make 282 

Blowpipe,   Automatic    180 

Blowtorch,    Homemade    459 

Board,  Writing,  for  Children 325 

Boards,  Planing    Rough-Grain     235 

Boat,  Barrel    445 

Boat,  Ice   and   Catamaran 27 

Boat,  Mirror  an  Aid   in   Rowing 121 

Boat,  Model   Steam-Turbine    323 

Boat,  Model,  With  Aerial  Propeller 207 

Boat,  Paddle-wheel,  How  to  Build 105 

Boats — A  Canoe  Stove 103 

Boats — An  Oar  Holder 168 

Boats,   Foot,  How   to   Make 166 

Boats — Hand     Propeller-Wheel     Attachment 

for    Rowboat    413 

Boats — Holder  for  Dory  Rudder 68 

Boats — How  to  Build  a  Paddle-Wheel  Boat.  105 

Boats — How   to  Build  a  Skiff 18 

Boats — Ice  Boat  and  Catamaran 27 

Boats — Mirror  an  Aid  in  Rowing  a  Boat....  121 

Boats — Rope  Oarlocks    201 

Boats,  Small,   Landing  for 237 

Boats — To  Repair  a  Leak  in  a  Canoe 149 

Bobsled,  Four-Passenger  Coasting 24 

Bobsled,  Guide  Ropes  on 155 

Bobsled,  Inexpensive   49 

Boiling  Cracked  Eggs 391 

Bolster,  How  to  Make 182 

Bolt,  Night,  Hinges  Used  to  Substitute 334 

Book  Cover,  Pocket  for  Inside  of 238 

Book   Covering    300 

Book  Leaves,   Removing  Ink  Stains  from...  418 

Book,  Support  for  Open 438 

Bookcase  or  Closet,  Portable  and  Folding..  296 

Bookholder,  Adjustable   224 

Bookrack     261 

Bookrack,    Folding    395 

Books  in    Case,    Holder    for 247 

Books,  Removing  Finger  Marks  from 200 

Boring  a   Clean-Edged  Hole 406 

Boring  a    Long    Hole 420 

Bottle,  Cover    for    420 

Bottle,  Glass,    Cutting    186 

Bottle  Necks.  To  Prevent  Corks  Sticking  in  174 

Bottle,  Removing    Cork    from 295 

Bottle-Cap    Lifter    195 

Bottle-Opening    Trick     223 

Bottles  and  Glasses,  Trick 460 

Bottles,  Medicine.   Time   Indicator   for 138 

Bottles,  Poison.   Simple  Way  to  Mark 126 

Box,  Camp    Provision    95 

Box  Partitions    454 

Boxes,   Homemade  Hinges   for 100 

Boy  Surveyor: 

Camera    Surveying    7 

Plane-Table   Surveying    1 

Plotting   a   Camera    Survey IS 

Brace,  Drill   Press   on  Ordinary 427 


461 


462 


Brace,  Wrist   m 

Braces   for  Aeroplane   Frames 235 

Bracket,  Shade-Roller    and    Curtain-Pole...  318 

Bracket,    Swinging    Electric-L-ight 284 

Brackets,  Towel-Roller    223 

Brake,   Prony,   for   Testing   Small   Motors...  32 

Brass  Articles,    Cleaning    375 

Brass,  Cleaner   for    192 

Brass  Clips,  Tool  Holders  Made  of 414 

Brass,  Frosting    185 

Brass  Rings,   Turning    400 

Brass  Tubing,    Seamless,     Small    Steam-En- 

gine   Cylinders    Made    from 396 

Bread,  Baking    in    Hot    Sand 53 

Bread,  Toasting  Over  an  Open  Fire 11 

Breaker,   Glass    291 

Broom  for  Sweeping  Out  Corners  in  Steps..  295 

Broom  Holder,  Another 99 

Broom,  Old,    Shaping    1S2 

Brown    Stain    for    Wood 189 

Brush  for  Applying  Soldering  Acid 283 

Brush    Handles,    Protecting,    from    Paint....  294 

Brush  Handles,  Utilizing  Old 417 

Brush  Hanger   for   Dark    Room 156 

Brush,  Homemade,  for  Cleaning  Upholstered 

Furniture    188 

Brush,  To  Clean  Shellac  from 319 

Buckle    Tongues,    Replacing 331 

Bucket,   Ear  Repair  on 175 

Bucket-Ball    Game    270 

Buffer,  Finger-Nail   322 

Bug    Powder    457 

Bugs  Attracted  by  Light,  Catching 263 

Bumper,    Rubber,    on    Water    Faucet 406 

Bunsen   Burner,  Homemade   318 

Bunsen   Burner,  Small    308 

Burglar  Alarm,  Fire  and.  How  to  Make....  411 

Burlap,  Needle  for  Sewing 151 

Burner  for  Soldering  Small  Work 418 

Burner,  tlomemade    Bunsen    318 

Burner,  Small   Bunsen    308 

Bushing  a  Stovepipe  in  a  Chimney  Hole....  231 

Buttonhole  Cutter   414 

Buttonholes,    Guide    for    Making 264 

Cabinet,  Bedroom     163 

Cabinet  Doors,  Homemade   Ball  Catch   for..      72 
Cabinet,  Shaving,     Mounted     on     Adjustable 

Pedestal     23 

Cabinet    Work,   Joint    for 251 

Calcium  Deposits  on   Glass,  Removing 189 

Calculation    Trick,   Lightning 101 

Caliper  Gauge,  Vise  Used  as 172 

Camera,  Hand,  Telephoto  Attachment  for...    136 

Camera,    Homemade,    Enlarging    219 

Camera,  Mechanical     233 

Camera,  Mile-O-View    213 

Camera,  Multiplying,  Attachment  for 221 

Camera,  Ordinary,  .Stereoscopic  Pictures  with  346 

Camera  Shutter,    Electrically    Operated 234 

Camera  Support    324 

Camera  Survey,  Plotting  a 13 

Camera  Surveying 7 

Cameras,  Dull  Black  for 163 

Cameras,  Homemade  Direct-View  Finder  for      54 

Camp,  Bed  for    133 

Camp  Furnishings 93 

Camp,  Hanger   for    101 

Camp,  Lantern  for 276 

Camp  Loom    107 

Camp  Provision    Box    95 

Camp  Stoves 97 

Camp-Fire  Utensils,  Supports  for 371 

Camphor,  Experiments  with 391 

Camps    90 

Cams,  Small,  How  to  Make 53 

Can    Covers,    Tight-Fitting,   Removing 391 

Candle   Sconce,   Horn 298 

Candle-Shade  Holder    250 

Candle,  To  Automatically  Extinguish 67 

Candles,  Decorating     426 

Candles,  Motor    Made    of 49 

Candles,  Substitute    for    247 

Candles,  Varnished,    Burn    Longer 321 

Candy-Floss  Machine,  How  to  Make 268 

Cane-Seat  Cleaner 318 

Canned    Foods,    Heated, '  Relieving    Pressure 

for    Opening    42 

Canoe  Stove  103 

Canoe,  To  Repair  Leak  in 149 

Canvas,  Preventing  Mildew  on 247 

Canvas  Shoes,    Cleaner    for 289 

Carbon   Paper,  Renewing    34 

Card,  Changing   Pip  on 67 


Card,  Magic  Change    133 

Card  Stock,  Typewriting  on 458 

Card-and-Coin    Trick    41 

Cards,  Mind-Reading  Effect  with 29 

Carrier  for  Fishhooks    269 

Carrier  for  Suitcase   114 

Carrier,  Milk-Bottle     107 

Carrier,  Stove-Wood    237 

Carrying  Stone    Jars    309 

Carrying  Two  Pails  in  One  Hand 382 

Cartridge  Belt,  How  to  Make 55 

Cartridge  Shells    Used    for    Electrical    Con- 
tacts        285 

Case,  Holder  for  Books  in 247 

Casein   Glue    212 

Casting    Rod,    One-Piece 59 

Castings  for  Engine  Pistons,  Pipe  Caps  Used 

as     408 

Catamaran,  Ice  Boat  and 27 

Catapult     132 

Catch,  Ball,  for  Cabinet  Doors 72 

Catch,   Safety,   for   Flour   Kin 454 

Catch  to  Hold  Two  Joining  Doors  Open 77 

Caterpillars    on    Grapevines,    Destroying....      94 

Cellar-Door  Holder   34 

Cement   Floors,  Footstool  for 119 

Cement,  Shellac 50 

Center  Gauge,  Prick-Punch   453 

Centering  Gauge    253 

Chain,   Novelty    191 

Chair   Bottoms,    Reinforcing    191 

Chair,  Freezing    Basin    to 431 

Chair,  Head    Rest   for 309 

Chair  Legs,   To    Fasten 243 

Chair  Post,  Repairing  Broken  Tenon  on....    388 

Chair,  Repairing    Rocker    on 196 

Chair  Rocker,   Stop   on,  for   Baby 153 

Chair  Rockers,  Safety  Tips  on 296 

Chair  Swing    98 

Chairs,   Reflnishing    376 

Chalk   Trays,   Covering    for 274 

Chart.    Compass    Time 378 

Cherry   Fitter    309 

Chickens,  Tin  Can  Used  for  Watering 144 

Child's  Finger,  Cutting  Tin  Ball   from 436 

Child's  Playhouse    265 

Child's  Seat  for  Theaters 437 

Chime   Clock,   Electric 332 

Chinese   Pagoda    278 

Chisel  Edges,  Grinding   322 

Chisel  Handle,  Protector  Cap  for 430 

Chisel  Holder  for   Whetting 317 

Chisel  Rack   248 

Chopper,   Poultry-Pood    291 

Chopping  Block,   Stick  Holder  for 191 

Clamp,  Detachable,  for  Stairway  Handrails.    452 

Clamp,  Emergency   203 

Clamp,  Picture-Frame    and    Triangle 230 

Clamp  Used  as  Vise 410 

Clapper,   Whirligig    453 

Clean  Jewelry,  How  to 287 

Cleaner,  Cane-Seat    ". 318 

Cleaner  for  Brass    192 

Cleaner  for  Canvas   Shoes 289 

Cleaner,  Lamp-Chimney     125 

Cleaner,  AVall-Paper     266,   273 

Cleaning  an  Oilstone    237 

Cleaning  Bath   for   Silverware 355 

Cleaning  Brass  Articles    375 

Cleaning  Clothes  by   Boiling  Them 289 

Cleaning  Dirt  from  Tufts  in  Upholstering..    175 

Cleaning  Gold   and    Platinum 191 

Cleaning  Painted  or  Frescoed  Walls 187 

Cleaning  Pearl    Articles    133 

Cleaning  Steel  of  Grease  and  Stains 239 

Cleats  on  Boards,  Substitute  for 322 

Clips  to  Hold  Magazine  Pages  Together....    103 

Clock,  Electric  Chime   332 

Clock,  Repairing  Worn  Escapement  Wheel  of     72 
Closet,  Bookcase  or.  Portable  and  Folding.  .    296 

Closet  Holders  for  Linen 192 

Cloth,       Delicate,       Removing      Perspiration 

Stains  from    414 

Cloth,  Removing  Acid  Stains  from 196 

Clothes,  Cleaning  by  Boiling 289 

Clothes  Peg,  Cork-Covered    18^ 

Clothes  Peg,  Wood   406 

Clothes  Rack     • 166 

Clothesline,    Double,    Supporter    tor 288 

Clothesline  for  Small  Goods 194 

Clothesline,  Hanging    Taut 451 

Clothesline  Posts,  Folding  Arms  for 394 

Clothesline   Reel      ;" 

Clothesline  Reel,  Homemade «*» 


463 


Clothespin  Bag   ,J2 

Clothespin,  Wire "' 

Clothing,  To   Remove  Grease  from. i"^ 

Clothing,  To  Remove   Rust  Stains  from 1  ii 

Coaster   Brake,    Repairing    *-- 

Coaster,  Homemade  Roller    -tjJJ 

Coasting    Bobsled.    Four-Passenger j'l 

Coat   and   Trousers   Hangers ^*^ 

Coil  Springs,  Small.  How  to  Make      la' 

Coil,   Water-Heating,   in  Furnace  Pipe ^a4 

Coils,  Induction,  Testing  Out !» 

Coin   Box,   Mystery ^"^ 

Coin,  Worn,   Reading  Date  of <>*' 

Coins,   Display   Holder  for o^ 

Cold-Chisel   Guide    -1°^ 

Collar  Fasteners    ■^.-  •  -^  ••;•••■,•  "  ?n 

Collar  Holder,   Combination  Tie   Rack  and..  JU 

Coloring    Electric-Light  Globes 4^» 

Colors,  Setting,  in  Fabrics ^-^ 

Comb  Cleaner    l°° 

Compass.  Operation  of    ^^' 

Compass.  Pencil.  Emergency    5* 

Compass  Time  Chart    ^j,5 

Condenser,  Variable    ,•  i;-;,:  •■,'■■  i' " '  iPc: 

Connecting  Call  Bells,  Simple  Methods  of.  .  .  3ob 
Construction    of   Simple   Wireless   Telephone 

Part    I iii 

Part  II  

Construction 'of   Small    Bell-Ringing   Trans- 
former: .    ,  ,.„ 

Part     I — Fundamental    Principles    ^4S 

Part  II — Construction    ^g^ 

Cooking  Food  in  Paper 1^» 

Cooler  for  Milk  and  Butter....... 4ii& 

Cooling  Tube  for  Laboratory  Still 1^' 

Coop,   Poultry    ;•.••  i,-  •,•■••.••  ■    '^'" 

Copying   Stand   for  Photographic  Enlarging 

and   Reducing    i-;,- • -^^ :  •  •^■,    •.• 

Cord,    Flexible,   Adjuster   for   Electric   Flat- 

iron   • ^"» 

Cores  for  Use  in  Babbitt  Metal. 304 

Cork,  Large,  Fitting  in  Small  Bottle ....    ^^a 

Cork  Puller "3,   2.^| 

Cork,  Removing,  from  Bottle -»» 

Cork-Covered    Clothes    Peg 1»^ 

Corks-in-a-Box   Trick    ...............    iio 

Corks    To  Prevent  Sticking  in  Bottle  Necks.    Ii4 

Corn  Sheller,  Hand    f  | ' 

Corn   Sheller,   Homemade    ■■••••••■.•■■  V,- ••  V    •'i. 

Corner  Cleaner  Attached  to  Scrubbing  Brush     1^ 

Corner  Joints,    Picture-Frame    . AT'    ILt 

Corners  in  Steps.  Broom  for  Svi^eepmg  Out.  .    J»5 
Corrosion,  Protecting  Binding  Posts  on  Wet 

Batteries   from    '^"^ 

Costumer,  How  to  Make    4i 

Couch-Cover   Corner.   Tying   Rosette   in 31U 

Countersink  for  Wood,  Homemade i&4 

Coupling,    Shaft    %*' 

Court-Plaster,    Liquid    ■■■■„■■-■■■; ii. 

Cover,  Detachable  Hinged,   for  Kettles iii 

Cover  for   Bottle    ^-" 

Cover  for  Magazines ^" 

Cover,  Slide-Opening,  for  Plate  Holder 1"4 

Cover  Strainer    j" 

Covering  for  Chalk  Trays -'4 

Covering  for  Gas-Stove  Top. ■ 4„0 

Pradle,  Combination  Settee  Rocker  and _^4b 

Cradle,  Homemade    5 '^ 

Crease  in   Soft  Hat,  To  Keep ^S4 

Crochet   Hook    v;  ■ ;.',, 1 01 

Croquet  Arches.    White    Rubber    on.... l^i 

Croquet  Mallets  Protected  by  Metal  Rings.  .    225 

Croquet  Playing.    Night    251 

Crystallization    Shown   on    Screen ^ib 

Cucumbers,  Raising  on  Trellis 445 

Cup.  Paper    Drinking 1^» 

Cup,  Paper  Drinking,  How  to  Make i4b 

Curling-Iron    Heater    1;? 

Curtain  Hanger    ^'4 

Curtain   Stop    ■ ^V> 

Curtain,  Stretching,  without  Frame 158 

Cushion,    Screen   and   Storm-Door 4^^ 

Cuspidor  Carrier    ^T9 

Cut  Press,  Homemade    ^f ' 

Cut,  Starting   Saw    j^j 

Cutter,  Buttonhole   414 

Cutter  for  Lace  Leather 3'o 

Cutter  Made  of  Wafer  Razor  Blade ^4« 

Cyclemobile    ;;i'- 

Cylinders.   Small    Steam-Engine.  Mad?   ,rom 

Seamless    Brass    Tubing 3»6 


Dampness,  Keeping  Out ■   }^* 

Dark,  Locating  Droplight  in 1^^ 

Dark   Room,   Brush  Hanger  for.  ..........  .    lao 

Dark   Room.  Photographer's.  Drying  Towels  ^^^ 

D'Arsonval  "Galvanometer    415 

Date   of  Worn  Coin,  Reading ^4/ 

Decorating  Candles • 4io 

Decoration,  Forcing    Fruit   Blossoms   for 1- 

Decorative  Wood   Panels    »» 

Demagnetize  a  Watch,  How  to.... ^au 

Demagnetizer,   Watch.  How   to  Make 15U 

Dents  in  Wood.  Raising......... "i 

Desk,  Sloping,  Telephone  Stand  for 11^ 

Develop  Roll  Film,  Easy  W  ay  to 4-s 

Developing  Machine    ■■•.■■  x f 9? 

Developing  Tray  Made  of  Tin  Can 1^1 

Developing-Tray    Rocker    ^J* 

Dibble,    Homemade    f*" 

Die-and-Box  Trick    i-ti. 

Dip,  Bright,  for  Metal ^^" 

Dip-Plating  Process    ■>" 

Dish  or  Floor  Mop,  Endless fa 

Dish  Washing,    Summer ^ob 

Dishpan,  Sink  a  Substitute  tor ia( 

Disk-Armature   Motor    "» 

Disk-Throwing   Pistol ■ ^J* 

Display,  Flying   Model   Aeroplane    for ibl 

Display  Holder    for    Coins 5i 

Displaying  Dye   Colors ^41 

Displaying   Magazines,   Holders   for i^U 

Dissolving    Coin    Trick..    .  .  .  . ^'^ 

Distance  Chart    for    Wireless    Stations....^.    269 
Distance  Marker  for  Printing  Photographs.    226 

Distilling   Apparatus   for   Water i->-^ 

Dog.  Chained,    Exerciser    for i}' 

Dogs,  Lathe    ■ Ji? 

Door,  Double    Latch    for 4»i 

Door  Fastener .■ }°S 

Door  Hinges,   Locking   Screws  in 1"^ 

Door  Knobs,  Attaching  to  Locks ^^' 

Doorstop    iiL 

Doorbell   Alarm     JSx 

Doorbell,  Musical •  •  ■  •  ■  ■  ■ <>^a 

Doors,  Two  Joining,  Catch  to  Hold  Open 77 

Doorway.  Fastening  Portiere  Pole  in i^l 

Dory  Rudder.  Holder  for. »» 

Dovetail  Joint.  Laying  Out ^4( 

Dowel-Turning    Tool • |»» 

Drafts.  Window  Ventilator  to  Prevent......    ^48 

Draftsmen.  Amateur.  Combination  Tool  for.    3^4 

Drawer.  Automatically    Closing    I'i 

Drawer.  Combination    Lock    for lb» 

Drawer  Guide,    Nonsticking    ■■•■•■• ■•    '>'*•' 

Drawer.  Ordinary     Table.     Secret     Compart- 

ment  in    ■. .- ■  •    i-  ■  ■  -.■■,:  ■  '    ,  ni 

Drawers.  Several,  Locking  with  One  Lock..    101 

Drawing  Instruments.   Substitutes   for 146 

DrawinI  Pen.  To  Start  Ink  Flowing  from..    446 

Dressing.    Shoe.    Waterproof "» 

Drill  Press.  Homemade      ■  •  •  • *" 

Drill  Press.  Homemade  Hand ft" 

Drill  Press  on  Ordinary  Brace. 4Z( 

Drill.  Small  Vertical,  How  to  Make      ....^..    4.ib 
Drill   To  Prevent  from  Catching  as  It  Passes 

through    Metal .^* 

Drilling  Thin   Metal 4Ub 

Drinking  Cup,   Paper    .  . ;  •  ■^.-  ', ii% 

Drinking  Cup,  Paper,  How  to  Make 346 

Drinking  Glasses,    Separating    lb* 

Drinking  Tube    ,25 

Drip-Pan  Alarm    ,■  •  • -.A' i' ;  '  '  '  '  ;  '  '  '  '  '      in? 

Drip  Pan,   Locating  Under  Refrigerator....   307 

Driver,  Screweye    iii. 

Driving    Screws    :  ■  •  i,-  ■  •, 1  oq 

Droplight.   Locating    in    Dark........ i" 

Dropper  and  Cork  tor  Medicine  Bottles        .  .    248 
Dry  and  Warm  Climates.  Refrigerator  for..    3.57 

Dry  Batteries,  Preserving   la^ 

Dry   Batteries,   Renewing    ^" 

Dry  Batteries,   Testing    r?? 

Dry  Cell.   How  to  Make 4^J 

Drying  Seeds     ■  ■  •  ■  •.■  ■ "^H 

Drying  Small  Laundered  Articles.  .........      58 

Dryini      Towels      in      Photographer's      Dark 

Room    ■  •  •  • iih 

Dustpan.   Long   Handle   for ^^J 

Dye    Colors.    Displaying '=4* 

Ear  Repair  on  a  Bucket. 1^^ 

Ebony,    Imitating    on    Oak ^^^ 

Edgirig   Flower  Beds J"" 

Egg    Boiler    .jo 

Eii-Frying  Pan    ^^S 


464 


Ess  Separator,  Homemade 153 

Eggs,  Cracked,    Boiling    391 

Eggs,  Lifter  for  Removing  from  Hot  Water.      78 

Electric  Anemometer     367 

Electric  Apparatus,   Varnishing   Bases   for..    324 

Electric  Bed    Warmer,    Homemade 154 

Electric  Chime    Clock    332 

Electric  Display  for  Show  Window 62 

Electric  Fishing  Signal,  How  to  Make 98 

Electric  Fixtures,      Curved,      Pulling      Wire 

through    173 

Electric  Flatiron,      Flexible-Cord      Adjuster 

for     406 

Electric  Fountain    401 

Electric  Furnace,  How   to  Make 373 

Electric  Furnace,   Small,  How  to  Make 229 

Electric  Gas  Lighter    376 

Electric  Heater,   How    to   Make 407 

Electric  Horn    409 

Electric  Incubator     343 

Electric  Indicator,  Wind  Vane  with.  How  to 

Build     305 

Electric  Lamp  Flasher,  How  to  Make 370 

Electric  Lamp  Reflector  for  Target 196 

Electric  Light,  Bicycle  Oil  Lamp  Changed  to     78 

Electric  Light    Bracket,    Swinging 284 

Electric  Light  Bulb  as  Barometer 280 

Electric  Light    Globes,    Coloring 438 

Electric  Light  Globes,  Paper  Shades  for....    316 

Electric  Light  Mystery    168 

Electric  Lights     Controlled     from     Two     or 

More   Switches    276 

Electric  Motor,  Simple,  How  to  Build 359 

Electric  Score   Board    for   Indoor   Games....    277 

Electric  Shaving  Mug    385 

Electric  Stirring   Machine    165 

Electric  Switch    for   Exposing   Photographic 

Printing  Papers ■ 181 

Electric  Test    for    Fixtures 288 

Electric  Time  Light    362 

Electric  Water    Heater    89,  243 

Electrical  Apparatus — Alarm     to     Designate 

Filled   Storage   Battery    253 

Electrical  Apparatus — Armatures    for    Small 

Motors    124 

Electrical    Apparatus — Bed    Warmer,    Home- 
made         154 

Electrical      Apparatus — Bell,      Continuously 

Ringing,   How   to   Make 381 

Electrical    Apparatus — Bell-Ringing    Trans- 
former,  Construction    of   Small 348,  352 

Electrical     Apparatus — Disk-Armature     Mo- 
tor         336 

Electrical   Apparatus — Doorbell   Alarm 160 

Electrical   Apparatus — Door  Ijock,  Combina- 
tion Electrically  Operated 110 

Electrical     Apparatus — Dry     Cell,     How     to 

Make   a    421 

Electrical    Apparatus — Electric    Display    for 

Show    Window    52 

Electrical  Apparatus — Electric  Fishing  Sig- 
nal           9S 

Electrical  Apparatus — Electric  Stirring  Ma- 
chine         165 

Electrical    Apparatus — Electric    Water 

Heater     89 

Electrical      Apparatus — Electrotype      Stamp, 

How  to  Make  an 419 

Electrical    Apparatus — Galvanometer,    D'Ar- 

sonval     415 

Electrical     Apparatus — O.alvanometer,     Sim- 
ple,   How   to  Construct   a 389 

Electrical      Apparatus — Fire      and      Burglar 

Alarm,  How  to  Make  a 411 

Electrical  Apparatus — Holding  Small  Arma- 
tures  for   Winding    118 

Electrical    Apparatus — Musical    Doorbell....    329 
Electrical      Apparatus — Pocket      Direct-Cur- 
rent Voltmeter   397 

Electrical    Apparatus — Quickly    Made    Rheo- 
stat         178 

Electrical  Apparatus — Reversing  Switch  for 

Small    Motors    378 

Electrical      Apparatus — Rheostat,     How     to 

Make  a  Small 393 

Electrical  Apparatus — Rotary  Tuning  Coil..    372 
Electrical  Apparatus — Series  Motor.  How  to 

Make  a  Small 403 

Electrical     Apparatus — Simple     Methods     of 

Connecting   Call    Bells 356 

Electrical    Apparatus — Small    Shocking    Ma- 
chine         363 

Electrical     Apparatus — Telegraph     Sounder, 

Homemade     119 


Electrical  Apparatus — Temperature  Alarm..  345 

Electrical  Apparatus — Variable  Condenser..  129 
Electrical     Apparatus — Vibrator     for     Spark 

Coil     309 

Electrical    Apparatus — Wet    Battery,    Home- 
made       340 

Electrical    Apparatus — Wire    Expansion 

Meter     410 

Electrical     Apparatus — Wireless     Telephone 

Set,    Construction    of    Simple 337,  341 

Electrical    Contacts,    Cartridge    Shells    Used 

for     285 

Electrical    Testing    Instrument    for    Experi- 
menters       328 

Electrically  Ignited  Flash  Light  for  Making 

Photographs     239 

Electrically   Operated  Camera   Shutter 234 

Electrically     Operated    Door     Lock,     Combi- 
nation       110 

Electrodes,  Furnace,  of  Lead  Pencils 441 

Electrolytic    Interrupter,    How    to    Make.  .  .  ,  241 

Electroplating,   Inlaying   Metals  by 171 

Electroplating    without    a    Tank 234 

Electrotype   Stamp,   How   to  Make 419 

Ellipsograph,   Homemade    429 

Emboss    Stationery,    How    to 454 

Embossed  Letters.  Air  Pencil  to  Make 29 

Emery — Cloth   Holder    386 

Engine,   Homemade   Steam-Turbine 180 

Engine  Pistons,  Pipe  Caps  Used  as  Castings 

for     408 

Engine,   Thermo,   Atmospheric 120 

Enlarging  Camera,  Homemade   219 

Enlarging    Photographs    217 

Enlarging    Pictures    269 

Envelope  and  Stamp  Moistener 431 

Envelope,    Special,    To    Make 67 

Eraser  Holder   175 

Eraser,   Ink    395 

Escapement  Wheel  of  Clock,  Repairing  Worn  72 

Exerciser  for  a  Chained  Dog 117 

Exerciser,    Homemade    299 

Expansion    Meter,    Wire    410 

Experiment,    Interesting     302 

Experiment,   Interesting   Vacuum 250 

Experimenters,     Electrical     Testing     Instru- 
ment  for    328 

Experiments    with    Camphor 391 

Exterior  Sliding  Fly  Screen 231 

Extracting  a   Broken   Screw 134 

Extractor,   Sliver    250 

Eye  Shield  for  Microscope 153 

Fabrics,  Setting  Colors  in 223 

Falling  Blocks,  How  to  Make 392 

Fastener,    Door     163 

Fasteners,    Bed-Cover    55 

Fasteners,  Collar   56 

Fastening   Loose   Table   Legs 289 

Fastening  Screws  in  Tile  and  Brick  Walls..  292 

Faucet,  Water,  Rubber  Bumper  on 406 

Feeding  Table,   Turn,    for   Birds 137 

Felt,   Mending  Break   in 192 

Fencing,    Poultry,   Stretching 253 

Ferris  Wheel,  Plavground 161 

Ferrule,  Taper,  How  to  Make 380 

Figures,  Puzzle  with 289 

File,    Inexpensive    286 

Filing  Flat    Surfaces    296 

Filing  Soft    Metals    1 02 

Film-Developing    Machine,    Adjustable 208 

Film,   Roll,  Easy  Way  to   Develop 425 

Filter,  Automatic     148 

Filter,  Force,    Laboratory    119 

Filter  in  a  Pump  Spout 189 

Filter,  Water     109 

Finder  for  Cameras,  Homemade  Direct-View  54 

Finger  Marks,  Removing  from  Books 200 

Finger  Nail   Buffer    322 

Finger  Protection  on  Laboratory  Vessels...  170 

Finger-Ring   Trick    56 

Fire  and  Burglar  Alarm,  How  to  Make 411 

Fireflies,    Theatrical    Night    Scene    with   Ap- 
pearance  of    162 

Fish,  Game,   Attractor  for    97 

Fish,     Preventing    Loss    of,     from    Covered 

Baskets     208 

Fish    Rake    423 

Fish-Scaling    Knife    182 

Fish    Stringer    146 

Fish,   To   Hold   While   Removing  Scales 309 

Fishhooks,  Carrier  for 269 

Fishhooks,  Carrying  in.  Cane  Pole 58 

Fishing,  Live  Bait  Used  in 261 


465 


Flshing-Rod  Joints,  •Holding  Together 201 

Fishing-Rod  Making  and  Angling: 

Part  I — A  One-Piece  Casting   Kod 59 

Fart  II — Various    Two     and     Three-Piece 

Rods     69 

Part  III — Trout  Fishing  with  Fly  and  Bait     73 
Part  IV — Trout  Fishing  with  Fly  and  Bait     79 

Fishing  Signal,  lilectric.  How  to  Make 98 

Fishing,  Trout,  with   Fly  and  Bait 73,  79 

Fitting  Large  Cork  in  Small   Bottle 339 

Five-Pointed    Star     226 

Fixtures,   Electric  Test   for 288 

Fixtures,  Gas  and  Electric,  Locating  in  Dark   437 
Flash   Light,   Electrically   Ignited,   for  Mak- 
ing  Photographs    239 

Flash  Light  Telegraph  on  Kite  Line Ib5 

Flasher,  Electric  Lamp,  How  to  Make 370 

Flasher,   Sunlight,   for  Garden 179 

Flashing  Hook    246 

Flat  Surfaces,  Filing   296 

Flatiron,     Electric,    Flexible-Cord    Adjuster 

for     406 

Flatiron  Holder,  Ornamental  Metal 150 

Floor  or  Dish  Mop,  Endless 29 

Floor   Polisher,   Homemade 125 

Floor  Push   Button    144 

Flour  Bin,  Safety  Catch  for 454 

Flower  Beds,  Edging 165 

Flower  Trellis,  Umbrella  Used  as 164 

Flowers,  Preserving,  in  Color  and  Form....    127 

Flutter  Ring,  How  to  Make 100 

Flying  Model  Aeroplane  for  Display 361 

Flymobile,    How    to    Make 139 

Flypaper   Holder    423 

Folding  Arms  for  Clothesline  Posts 394 

Folding  Bookrack    395 

Food,  Cooking,  in  Paper 168 

Food,  To  Keep  Ants  Away  from 361 

Foot  Boats,  How  to  Make 166 

Footstool    tor  Cement   Floors 119 

Form,    Stocking-Stretcher    190 

Fortune  Teller,   Mystic    32 

Fountain  Attachment  for  Ordinary  Pen 326 

Fountain,    Electric    401 

Fountain  for  Ordinary  Pen 173 

Fountain-Pen  Barrels,  Mending  Broken 442 

Fountain   Pen,   Homemade    94 

Frame  for  Printing  Post  Cards  from   Nega- 
tives         170 

Frames,   Small  Mitered,   Gluing 193 

Freezing    Basin    to    Chair 431 

Freezing,  To  Prevent  Poultry  Water  from..   355 

Frosting  Brass   185 

Frosting  Glass    243 

Fruit   Blossoms  for  Decoration,  Forcing....      12 

Fruit-Jar  Opener   272 

Fruit  Jars,   Screw-Top,  Opening 125 

Fruit   Presser     279 

Fruit  Stemmer    94 

Funnel,  Automatic  Valve  for 317 

Furnace,  Electric,  How  to  Make 373 

Furnace  Electrodes  of  Lead  Pencils 441 

Furnace  Pipe.  Water-Heating  Coil  in 294 

Furnace,  Small  Electric,  How  to  Make 229 

Furnishings,     Camp      93 

Furniture — Bedroom   Cabinet    163 

Furniture — Bookrack      261 

Furniture — Chair  Swing   98 

Furniture — Combination   Settee   Rocker   and 

Cradle     46 

Furniture — Costumer,  How   to  Make 42 

Furniture — Double   Top   for   Table 78 

Furniture — Folding    Bookrack    395 

Furniture — Footstool  for  Cement  Floors....    119 

Furniture — Jardiniere   Pedestal    255 

Furniture,  Leaded-Glass  Panels  for 443 

Furniture,  Mission,  Joint  for 384 

Furniture    Polish    102,  458 

Furniture   Polish    for   Fine  Woods 216 

Furniture,  Reed — A  Reed   Basket 257 

Furniture — Shaving  Cabinet    23 

Furniture — Woven-Top   Stool    256 

Fuse  Wire,  Reducing  Amperage  of 322 

Galvanometer,  D'Arsonval    415 

Galvanometer,  Simple,  How  to  Construct. . . .   389 

Game,  Bucket-Ball    270 

Game,  Indoor   Baseball    275 

Game  Played  on  Ice 52 

Game,    Ring-Throwing 287 

Games,  Indoor,  Electric  Score  Board  for 277 

Garden-Bed  Scarecrow 365 

Garden  Roller   293 

Garden,   Sunlight   Flasher   for 179 


Gas  and  Electric  Fixtures,  Locating  in  Dark  437 

Gas  Generator,  Laboratory    118 

Gas  Lighter,   Electric    376 

Gas  Pipe,  Paper   262 

Gas  Stove  Top,   Covering  for 420 

Gasoline    Consumption     of    Automobile,    To 

Reduce     436 

Gate,  Double-Swing,  with  Common  Hinge. . .  19 

Gate  Fasteners    396 

Gate,  Self-Closing   211 

Gauge  Attachment  for  Pocket  Rule 233 

Gauge,  Centering 253 

Gauge,  Homemade  Marking 294 

Gauge,  Prick-Punch  Center   453 

Gauge,  Rule   459 

Gear-Cutting    Machine     424 

Generator,  Gas,  Laboratory   118 

Geometric  Principle   in  Line  Division 326 

Glass   Bottle,  Cutting 186 

Glass  Breaker    291 

Glass,    Frosting    243 

Glass,   Removing  Calcium  Deposits  on 189 

Glass,    Removing   Paint   from 298 

Glasses,  Drinking,   Separating    164 

Glasses,  Trick    Bottles   and 460 

Glaziers'  Points,  Substitute  for 293 

Glider,   Ice    31 

Glider,  Monoplane,  How  to  Make 115 

Glider,  Paper,  That  Loops  the  Loop 109 

Glider,   Tandem  Monoplane    113 

Glue,    Casein    212 

Glue-Spreader   Holder    153 

Gluing  Small   Mitered  Frames 193 

Go-Cart,   Runner  for    287 

Gold  and  Platinum,  Cleaning 191 

Graduate   Holder    218 

Graduate,    Homemade    192 

Graduates,  Renewing  Markings  on 316 

Graining    Tools,    Homemade    206 

Grape  Arbor   Built   of  Poles 12 

Grapevines,  Destroying  Caterpillars  on 94 

Grass   Rake    196 

Grease,  Removing  from   Paint 157 

Grease,  To  Remove  from  Clothing 102 

Green-Corn   Holder    167 

Grinder,  Kraut  and  Root 297 

Grinding  a  I'lane  Iron,  Guide  for 279 

Grinding   Chisel    Edges    322 

Grinding   .Scissors    148 

Grindstone,    Scraping   Surplus  Water  Off  on  188 

Guard,    Prunlng-Saw    197 

Guide,   Cold-Chisel    189 

Guide  for  Grinding  a  Plane  Iron 279 

Guide   for   Making   Buttonholes 264 

Guide   Ropes    on    Bobsled 155 

Guides  for  Mill  File 321 

Guides,    Window-Shade    286 

Gun,    Pea-Shooting    438 

Gunstocks,  Polishing    452 

Hacksaw  Frame,  Adjustable 163 

Hacksaw  Frame,  Homemade 426 

Hairpin,    Fancy,    Lock    for 110 

Hammer,     Double-Claw,     for     Pulling     Nails 

Straight     134 

Hammock,  To  Tie    286 

Hand    Drill    Press,   Homemade 242 

Hand    Hoe    147 

Handbag   Lock    386 

Handballs.  Inflating    365 

Handle  Attachment  for  Sickle 194 

Handle,  Long,   for  Dustpan 243 

Handle,  New  Pail-Cover 177 

Handle,   Scraper    227 

Handles,  Hunting-Knife    177 

Handrails.    Stairway,   Detachable   Clamp    for  452 

Hanger,    Curtain     274 

Hanger  for  the  Camp 101 

Hanger,  Kitchen  Utensil 100 

Hangers,    Coat   and    Trousers 442 

Hangers  for  Barn  Tools 155 

Hanging    Vase    102 

Hat  Hanger   388 

Hat  Sweatband,  Reducing  Size  of 132 

Head    Rest   for  Chair 309 

Heater,  Curling    Iron     126 

Heater,  Electric,  How  to  Make 407 

Heater.  Electric  Water   89 

Heel    Plates    250 

Heliograph.  How  to  Make 183 

Hindoo  Sand  Trick 308 

Hinge,    Small    Spring 291 

Hinge,    Strap,    Applying 280 

Hinge   with   Wide    Swing 452 


466 


Hinges,  Door,  Locking  Screws  in 102 

Hinges   (or    Boxes,   Homemade 100 

Hinges,    Homemade     358 

Hinges  Used   to  Substitute  Night  Bolt 334 

Hoe,    Hand    147 

Hoe,  Pointed  End  on 458 

Holder,   Broom,   Another 9D 

Holder,  Candle-Shade     250 

Holder,   Cellar-Door    34 

Holder  for  Books  in  a  Case 247 

Holder   for  Garden-Hose   Nozzle 252 

Holder  for  Loose  Window  Glass 149 

Holder   for   Milk   Card 170 

Holder  for  Set  of  Sadirons 293 

Holder  for  Skates  while  Sharpening 54 

Holder,  Green-Corn     167 

Holder,   Milk-Ticket      251 

Holder,  Nursing-Bottle     2ril 

Holder,  Paper-Bag    274 

Holder,  Pen    and    Brush 2S7 

Holder,  Pencil     290 

Holder,  Umbrella,  for  Display  Purposes 170 

Holder,  Washbasin    289 

Holders  for  Displaying  Magazines 320 

Hole,   Boring  Clean-Edged   406 

Hole.  Long,  Boring   420 

Home  Accounts,  Way  to  Keep 282 

Hook,  Crochet     325 

Hook,  Flashing    246 

Hook,    Key-Holder    147 

Hooks,    Homemade    Snap    248 

Horn  Candle  Sconce 298 

Horn,  Electric     409 

Horn,  Mechanical    Bicycle    195 

Hose     Attachment     for     Watering     Window 

Plants     298 

Hose  Nozzle   242 

Hose-Nozzle    Handle    421 

Hose   Reel,    Substitute   for 369 

Hot  Dish,  Holding  Spoon  on 437 

Houses  Made  of  Poles 85 

Hulling    Walnuts    162,  295 

Humidity  Indicator,  How  to  Make 360 

Humidor,   How   to   Make 136 

Hunting-Knife    Handles    177 

Hurdle,  How  to  Make 145 

Hydroelectric-Power    Plant,    Small 314 

Hydrometer,  Homemade    456 

Ice    Boat    and    Catamaran 27 

Ice-Box  Lights,  Automatically  Controlled...    134 

Ice  Boxes,  To  Remove  Odors  from 100 

Ice  Creeper  for  Shoe  Heels 124 

Ice,  Game  Played  on 52 

Ice    Glider     31 

Ice,  Pushmobile  Racer  for 428 

Illuminating  an  Outside  Thermometer 122 

Illusion,  Optical    345 

Imitating   Ebony  on  Oak 193 

Incubator,    Electric    343 

Incubator,   To   Double  Capacity  of 457 

Indicator,  Humidity,  How  to  Make 360 

Indicator,  Polarity     396 

Indoor  Baseball    Game     275 

Indoor  Game — Bucket-Ball  Game    270 

Indoor  Game — Ring-Throwing    Game    287 

Indoor  Games,   Electric  Score  Board  for....    277 

Induction  Coils,  Testing  Out 19 

Inexpensive    File    286 

Inflating   Handballs    365 

inflating  Toy   Balloons    167 

Ink   Bottle,    Pen    Rack    on 143 

Ink  Eraser    395 

Ink  Stains,   Removing  from  Book   Leaves...    418 
Ink,  To  Start   Flowing  from  Drawing  Pen..    446 

Inkstand,   Mission    Style    381 

Inkstand,  Tilting     300 

Inkwell   and    Penholder   283 

Inkwell    Stopper     196 

Inlaying  Metals  by  Electroplating 171 

Insect-Proof    Poultry    Roost    422 

Iodine    Stains,    Removing 55 

Iron    Holder   Knob,    Substitute    for 388 

Iron,  How  to  Nickel  or  Silverplate  by  Fric- 
tion          272 

Ironing-Board   Holder    302 

Ivory,    Bleaching    175 

Jardiniere  Pedestal    255 

Jelly-Straining    Stand    382 

Jewelrv,  How  to  Clean 287 

Jig-Saw    Blades    442 

Joint   for  Cabinet  Work 251 

Joint  for  Mission  Furniture 384 


Joints  for  Model  Aeroplane 275 

Joint,  Tenoned,  How  to  Lock 339 

Kettle-Handle   Support    49 

Kettle  Handle,   To   Protect   from  Heat 144 

Kettles,   Detachable  Hinged  Cover  for 123 

Key-Holder  Hook    147 

Keyhole,    Light    in    114 

Kitchen  Utensil — Baking-Pan      Shoes,      Ad- 
justable         129 

Kitchen  Utensil — Bottle-Cap  Lifter   195 

Kitchen  Utensil — Broom   Holder    99 

Kitchen  Utensil — Cherry  Pitter 309 

Kitchen  Utensil — Cork   Puller    173,  25i! 

Kitchen  Utensil — Cover  for  a  Bottle 420 

Kitchen  Utensil — Cover    Strainer    149 

Kitchen  Utensil — Egg    Boiler    190 

Kitchen  Utensil — Egg-Frying  Pan    388 

Kitchen  Utensil — Egg    Separator,  Homemade  15.? 

Kitchen  Utensil — Fish-Scaling    Knife    182 

Kitchen  Utensil — Fruit    Jar    Opener 272 

Kitchen  Utensil — Fruit    Stemmer    94 

Kitchen  Utensil — Grinder,   Kraut  and   Root.    297 

Kitchen  Utensil    Hanger    100 

Kitchen   Utensil — Kettle    Handle,   Protecting 

from   Heat    144 

Kitchen  Utensil — Kettle-Handle  Support  .  .  49 
Kitchen  Utensil — Kettles,        Detachable 

Hinged   Cover  for    123 

Kitchen  Utensil — Knife    Holder     on    Frying 

•     Pan    295 

Kitchen  Utensil — Lamp-Chimney  Cleaner...  125 
Kitchen  Utensil — Lard  and  Fruit  Presser.  .  279 
Kitchen  Utensil — Lifter  for  Removing  Eggs 

from   Hot   Water    78 

Kitchen  LTtensil — Nutcracker,  Adjustable  .  .  101 
Kitchen  Utensil — Opening    Screw-Top    Fruit 

Jars     125 

Kitchen  Utensil — Pail-Cover   Handle,   New..    177 

Kitchen  Utensil — Potato    Peeler    425 

Kitchen-Utensil   Scraper    147 

Kitchen  Utensil — Scrubbing     Brush,     Corner 

Cleaner    Attached    to    12 

Kitchen  Utensil — Skimmer   for   Bottled  Milk  358 

Kitchen  Utensil — Skimming    Spoon    391 

Kitchen  Utensil — Soap  Shake   175 

Kitchen  Utensil — Steam,      Opening      for,      in 

Utensil   Cover    288 

Kitchen  Utensil — Strainer  for  Milk  Pail....  53 
Kitchen  Utensil — Tablespoon    End    Used    as 

Lemon  Squeezer    225 

Kitchen   Utensil — Vegetable  Slicer   254 

Kite,   Aeroplane    Ill 

Kite-Line  Cutaway   for  Toy  Parachutes....    308 

Kite   Line,    Flash-Light   Telegraph    on 155 

Kite-Line  Traveler    228 

Kite  Lines,  Toy  Parachute  Cut-Away  for...    372 

Kite,    War,    How   to   Make 108 

Knife,    Pish-Scaling    182 

Knife  Handle,  Broken,  Repairing   229 

Knife  Holder  on  a  Frying  Pan 295 

Knife,   Homemade   Palette    211 

Knife,  To  Make  Open  Easily 347 

Knives  and   Glasses,  Trick  with 227 

Kraut  and   Root  Grinder 297 

Labels,  Old,  To  Make  Scratch  Pads  of 406 

Laboratory  Force    Filter    119 

Laboratory  Gas    Generator    118 

Laboratory  Still,  Cooling   Tube   for 187 

Laboratory  Vessels,    Finger   Protection   on..  170 

Laboratory,  Wash  Bottle  for  Use  in 458 

Lamp,  Bicycle  Oil,  Changed  to  Electric  Light  78 

Lamp  Chimney  Cleaner   125 

Lamp  Deception,  AVireless-Lighted    260 

Lamp  Flasher,  Electric,  How  to  Make 370 

Lantern    for    Camp 276 

Landing  for  Small   Boats 237 

Lantern   for  Spot  and  Colored  Lights 209 

Lantern   .Slide  Binding  Machine 207 

Lantern   Slides,  Advertising,  How  to  Make..  417 

Lard   and    Fruit    Presser 279 

Large  Hole  in  Small  Piece  of  Paper 317 

Latch,  Double,  for  Door 451 

Lathe,  Amateur  Mechanics'  Combination....  447 

Lathe    Bench    22 

Lathe   Dogs 319 

Lathe,   Filing   Small    Rods    in 414 

Lathe,  Sander   Mandrel    for 388 

Lathe,  W^ood,  How   to  Make 434 

Laundered    Articles.   Drying  Small 58 

Laundry,    How   to   Make   Copper   Stencil    for 

Marking     299 

Lawn  Mower,  Lighting,  for  Use  at  Night. . . .  310 


467 


Lawn   Sprinkler,  nomeinade    366 

Lawn  Sprinklingr,  Nozzle  Angle  for 356 

Lawn   Swing,  Anchor  Posts  tor 148 

Lasvn-Tennis  Marker    255 

Laying  Out  a   Dovetaii   Joint 247 

Lead  Pencils,  Furnace  Electrodes  of    441 

Lead  Pipe,   Painting    175 

Leaded-Glass   Panels  for  Furniture 443 

Leak  in  a  Canoe,  To  Repair 149 

Leather,    Lace,    Cutter    for 376 

Leather  Punch,  Homemade    452 

Leather  Punch,  Pipe  Used  as 138 

Leather,   Tan,   To  Color  Black 174 

Leather  Work,   Arts-Crafts    432,   439 

Leaves,  Falling,   in   Nature  Scene 400 

Lemon  Squeezer,  Tablespoon  Knd  Used  as..    225 

Letter   Scale,    How    to   Make 356 

Lettering   Photographs    320 

Letters,  Embossed,  Air  Pencil  to  Make 29 

Letters  for  Marking  Bags,  Homemade 254 

Level    of    Liquids,    in    Vessels,    To    Maintain 

Constant     154 

Lifter  for  Removing  Eggs  from  Hot  Water.  78 
Light,   Bathroom,   To  Operate  Automatically      58 

Light,  Catching    Bugs    Attracted    by 263 

Light,  Electric   Time    362 

Light   in  a   Keyhole 114 

Lighting  «t   Basement   Light    156 

Lighting  a  Lawn  Mower  for  Use  at  Night..  310 
Lighting  a  Room  for  Making  Photographs..  123 
Lights,  Ice-Box,   Automatically   Controlled..    194 

Lights,   Spot  and  Colored,  Lantern  for 209 

Line   Division,   Geometric  Principle   in 326 

Linen,   Closet   Holders   for 192 

Liquid   Court-Plaster    246 

Liquids,  Heavy,   Vent   for  Pouring 387 

Liquids    in    Vessels,    To    Maintain    Constant 

Level    of    154 

Lock,  Common,    Making   Less    Pickable 174 

Lock,  Door,   Combination   Electrically   Oper- 
ated         110 

Lock   for  a  Drawer,  Combination 169 

Lock  for  Fancy  Hairpin 110 

Lock,    Handbag    386 

Lock  Keeper,  Broken,  Repair  for 208 

Lock,    Window    320 

Locking  Extension     Table,     Window     Catch 

Used   for    42 

Locking  Screws    in    Door    Hinges 102 

Locking  Several  Drawers  with  One  Lock...    101 

Locks,  Attaching  Door  Knobs  to 322 

Loom,    Camp    ■  •    107 

Loose-Leaf  Pocket  Memorandum,  Homemade  283 
Loss    of    Fish    from    Covered    Baskets,    Pre-   ^ 
venting    ^08 

Machine  for  Sketching  Pictures 6 

Machine   Screws,   Small,  How   to   Start 169 

Machinery,  Oiling  Bright  Parts  of 248 

Magazine  Pages,  Clips  for  Holding  Together  103 

Magazines,   Binding     50 

Magazines,  Cover    for 344 

Magazines,   Holders   for  Displaying 320 

Magic  Change    Card     133 

Magic  String     165 

Magnetic-Suspension    Pendulum    104 

Mailing  Tube,    Homemade    376 

Mailing  Tube,   Securing  Papers  in 187 

Mandrel,  Sander,  for  Lathe 388 

Mantel  Picture  Frames  Made  in  Plaster....  226 

Marble,    Repairing     336 

Marker,   Lawn-Tennis    255 

Marking  Bags,  Homemade  Letters  for 204 

Marking  Gauge,    Homemade    294 

Markings   on  Graduates,    Renewing 316 

Marks  from  Basting  Threads  on  Wool,  Pre- 
venting      56 

Match-Box  Holder,   Safety   418 

Match  Box,     Self-Feeding     335 

Match  Holder    459 

Match  Safe  to  Deliver  One  Match  at  a  Time  285 

Maulstick   Used  as  Ruler 451 

Measuring  Length  of  Wire  Wound  on  Spool  365 

Meat  Saw  and  Knife,  Combination 409 

Mechanical  Aid    to    Singers 206 

Mechanical   Bicycle  Horn    195 

Mechanical  Camera     233 

Medicine   Bottles,   Dropper  and  Cork  for....  248 

Medicine  Bottles,  Time    Indicator    for 138 

Medicine-Spoon    Holder    295 

Mending  a    Break   in    Felt 192 

Merry-Go-Round    Pole    162 

Merry-Go-Round.    Skating    57 

Metal,    Bright    Dip    for 250 


Metal  Polish    Si 

Metal  Rings,  Croquet  Mallets  Protected  by.    225 

Metal,  Thin,   Drilling    406 

Metals,  Inlaying,  by  Electroplating    171 

Metals,  Soft,    Filing    102 

Meter,   Water,    Homemade    48 

Meter,  Wire    Expansion     410 

Microscope,   Eye  Shield   for 153 

Mildew   on   Canvas,   Preventing 247 

Mile-O-View   Camera    213 

Milk  and   Butter,  Cooler  for 405 

Milk-Bottle    Carrier    107 

Milk-Bottle  Tray    235 

Milk,  Bottled,  Skimmer  for 358 

Milk    Card,    Holder    for 170 

Milk   Pail,  Strainer  for    53 

Milk  Stool     384 

Milk-Ticket    Holder    251 

Mill   File,  Guides   for 321 

Mind-Reading   Effect   with   Cards 29 

Mirror  an  Aid  in  Rowing  a  Boat 121 

Mirror  Hinged  to  Window  Casing 355 

Mission   Frame  for  an  Alarm  Clock 277 

Mission  Furniture,    Joint    for 384 

Mission-Style  Inkstand    381 

Miter  Box,  Picture-Frame,  Homemade 428 

Mixing    Sulphuric   Acid 278 

Model  Aeroplane,  Flying,  for  Display 361 

Model  Aeroplane,  Joints   for    275 

Model   Boat   with   Aerial   Propeller 207 

Model  Steam-Turbine   Boat    323 

Model   Work,    Bearings    for 238 

Moistener,  Envelope   and    Stamp 431 

Moistener,   Stamp    320 

Molding-Sawing  Block  Used  on  Bench 408 

Moles,  To  Prevent  from  Damaging  Growing 

Seeds     182 

Monorail  Sled,  How  to  Make 50 

Mop,    Endless    Dish    or    Floor 29 

Mop  Wringer,  How  to  Make 171 

Mortises,   Guide   for  Cutting 422 

Moscjuitoes,    Trapping    143 

Motion-Picture       Camera      and       Projector, 
Homemade: 

Part    I    198 

Part   II     202 

Part  III     204 

Motion-Picture  Machine,  Simple    321 

Motor,    Disk-Armature    336 

Motor  Made  of  Candles 49 

Motor,   Simple  Electric,  How   to  Build 359 

Motor,  Small  Series,  How  to  Make 403 

Motor,   Water,   How    to   Make 303 

Motorboat,  Repairing  Bruised  Sides  of 369 

Motors,   Prony  Brake  for  Testing  Small 32 

Motors,   Small,    Armatures   for    124 

Motors,  Small,  Reversing  Switch  for 378 

Mouse  Trap    178,  229 

Multiplying   Attachment   for   Camera 221 

Musical   Doorbell    329 

Muskrat  Trap 212 

Mysteries,     Tricks,     Illusions,     etc. — Bottle- 
Opening    Trick    223 

Mysteries,   Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Card    and 

Coin   Trick    41 

Mysteries,    Tricks,    Illusions,   etc. — Changing 

Pip   on   a   Card 67 

Mysteries,  Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Corks-in- 

a-Box    Trick    335 

Mysteries,  Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Die-and- 

Box    Trick     141 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Dissolving- 
Coin   Trick    272 

Mysteries,    Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Electric- 
Light    Mystery    168 

Mysteries,  Tricks,      Illusions,      etc. — Finger- 
Ring    Trick     56 

Mysteries,  Tricks,      Illusions,      etc. — Flutter 

Ring    100 

Mysteries,  Tricks,      Illusions,       etc. — Hindoo 

Sand    Trick     308 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Lightning- 
Calculation    Trick    101 

Mysteries,      Tricks,      Illusions,      etc. — Magic- 
Change  Card    133 

Mysteries,      Tricks,      Illusions,      etc. — Magic 

String     165 

Mysteries.    Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Mysteri- 
ous   Revolving   Wheel    152 

Mysteries.      Tricks,      Illusions,     etc. — Mystic 

Fortune  Teller    32 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Optical  Il- 
lusion          345 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,   etc. — "Q"  Trick  360 


468 


Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Ring  Trick  300 

Mysteries,    Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Kubber- 

Band-Change   Trick    284 

Mysteries,     Tricks,     Illusions,     etc. — String- 

and-Ball   Trick    273 

Mysteries,    Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Surprise 

Water    Bottle    218 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Swinging- 
Pendulum    Trick     280 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Trick  Bot- 
tles   and    Glasses 460 

Mysteries,    Tricks,    Illusions,    etc. — Trick    of 

Takinj;  Dollar  Bill  from  Apple 263 

Mysteries,  Tricks,  Illusions,  etc. — Trick  with 

Knives  and   Glasses 227 

Mysteries,      Tricks,      Illusions,      etc. — Tricks 

Performed   with   Thumbs  Tied  Together  2S1 

Mystery  Coin  Box 402 

Mystery,     Trunk     267 

Mystic  Fortune  Teller   32 

Nail,  Finishing,  To  Clinch 34 

Name,  Writing  Reversed  on  Paper  Placed  on 

Forehead     392 

Nature  Scene,  Falling  Leaves  in 400 

Needle  and  Thread  Tray,  Combination 72 

Needle  Box  for  Talking   Machines 263 

Needle  for    Repairing    Screens 206 

Needle  for  Sewing  Burlap   151 

Needle-Spray    Nozzle    41S 

Negative,  To  Hold   in  Printing  Frame 241 

Newspaper  Holder,  Clothespin 68 

Nickel  or  Silverplate  Iron  by  Friction,  How 

to 272 

Night  Bolt,  Hinges  Used  to  Substitute 334 

Night  Croquet  Playing    251 

Nonsticking   Drawer   Guide 383 

Nozzle  Angle  for  Lawn  Sprinkling 356 

rvczzle,   Garden-Hose,   Holder    for 252 

Noi.Ble,   Hose    242 

Nozzle,   Needle-Spray    418 

Nove'tv    "^hai.,     191 

Nursirig-Bottle    Holder    251 

Nut,  Wing,  How  to  Make 1S2 

Nutcracker,    Adjustable     101 

Nuts,    Different-Size,   Wrench   for 379 

Nuts,  Homemade  Wing   446 

Oak,  Imitating  Ebony  on 193 

Oar    Holder    168 

Oarlocks,    Rope     201 

Odors,  To  Remove  from  Ice  Boxes 100 

Oil  Burner  for  Cook  Stove 145 

Oilcloth,   To  Prevent   from   Cracking 138 

Oiling   Bright   Parts  of  Machinery 248 

Oilstone,    Cleaning    237 

Oilstone,    Repairing    Broken 249 

Old-Oak     Stain      225 

Opener,    Fruit-Jar    272 

Opening  for  Air  at  Top  of  Shade 297 

Opening  for  Steam  in  Utensil  Cover 288 

Operation    of    Compass 387 

Optical    Illusion    345 

Pad  for  Percolator   377 

Paddle-Wheel  Boat,  How  to  Build 105 

Pagoda,    Chinese    278 

Pail  Cover  Handle,  New 177 

Pail   Hook   for  Pitcher  Pump 245 

Pail,   Live-Bait    178 

Palls,  Carrying  Two  in  One  Hand 382 

Paint  Brushes,  Care  of 189 

Paint,  Preserving   in  Open   Cans 382 

Paint,  Protecting    Brush   Handles   from 294 

Paint,  Removing   from    Glass 298 

Paint,   Removing  Grease  from 157 

Painted    or   Frescoed   Walls,   To  Clean 187 

Painting   Lead    Pipe    175 

Paints    and    Pastes,    Preserving 418 

Palette  Knife,  Homemade 211 

Pan,    Egg-Frying     388 

Panels,  Decorative  Wood    58 

Panels,  Leaded-Glass,   for  Furniture 443 

Pantograph,    Homemade    142 

Paper,  Carbon,    Renewing    34 

Paper  Drinking    Cup    188 

Paper  Drinking  Cup,   How    to   Make 346 

Paper  Gas    Pipe    262 

Paper  Glider  That   Loops   the  Loop 109 

Paper,  Large   Hole   in   Small   Piece   of 317 

Paper  Perforator     400 

Paper  Shades   for   Electric-I>ight   Globes 316 

Paper  Smoother    and     Penwiper 345 

Paper  Transparent,    To    Make 11 


Paper-Bag   Holder 274 

Paper-Pulp    Utensils,  Mending 375 

Papers,  Addressing  Roll   of 369 

Papers   in  Mailing  Tube,  Securing 187 

Parachute  Cut-Away  for  Kite  Lines,  Toy.  .  .  .    372 

Partitions,    Box    454 

Pearl  Articles,  Cleaning    133 

Pea-Shooting  Gun    438 

Pedestal,    Jardiniere    255 

Peeler,    Potato    425 

Pen   and   Brush   Holder 287 

Pen,  Ordinary,  Fountain  Attachment  for....    326 

Pen,    Ordinary,    Fountain    for 173 

Pen   Rack   on  an   Ink   Bottle 143 

Pen,  Substitute  for   270 

Pencil  Compass,    Emergency     34 

Pencil  Holder     290 

Pencil   Rack     132 

Pencil   Sharpener     237 

Pencil   Sharpener    Stick     446 

Pencil   Sharpening   Guide    358 

Pencil   Stubs,    Use    for 104 

Pendulum,   Magnetic-Suspension    104 

Penholder,   Inkwell    and    283 

Penholder,   Substitute     252 

Penwiper,   Paper  Smoother  and 345 

Percolator,    Pad    for    377 

Perforator,    Paper    400 

Perspiration  Stains,  Removing  from  Delicate 

Cloth     414 

Photo  Printing,    Timing    245 

Photo  Vignetter     238 

Photograph  Prints,  Timing    371 

Photograph,  Radium,  How  to  Make 172 

Photographer's   Dark   Room,   Drying  Towels 

in    331 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Brush   Hanger  for  Dark    Room 156 

Photographic    Appliances    and     Processes — 

Camera  Support    324 

Photographic    Appliances    and     Processes — 

Developing  Machine   236 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Developing  Tray  Made  of  Tin  Can....  121 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Developing   Tray    Rocker    224 

Photographic    Appliances     and     Processes — 

Dull    Black    for    Cameras 163 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Easy  Way  to  Develop  Roll  Film 425 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — • 

Electric   Stirring   Machine    165 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Electrically  Operated  Camera  Shutter.  .  234 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Film-Developing  M.^chine.  Adjustable..  208 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Frame    for    Printing    Post    Cards    from 

Negatives      170 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — ■ 

Holding  Prints  in  a  Liquid-Filled  Tray  33 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Homemade  Enlarging  Camera 219 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Homemade    Motion-Picture    Camera   and 

Projector     198,   202,  204 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes  — 

Lighting  a  Room  for  Making  Photo- 
graphs         123 

Photographic    Appliances    and     Processes — 

Mile-O-View   Camera    213 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Multiplying  Attachment  for  Camera....  221 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Photographic   Print   Washer 97 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Slide-Opening  Cover  for  Plate  Holder..  104 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Stereoscopic      Pictures      with      Ordinary 

Camera    346 

Photographic  Appliances  and  Processes- 
Tank      Development     Methods     Used     in 

Tray    Development    428 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

Telephoto  Attachment  for  Hand  Camera  136 
Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — 

To  Hold  Negative  in  Printing  Frame..  241 
Photographic    Appliances     and     Processes — 

Trimming    Photographs    68 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes^ 

View   Finder,   Direct,   for  Cameras 54 

Photographic     Appliances     and     Processes — ■ 

Washing    Photographic   Prints 92,  168 


469 


Photographic      Enlarging      and      Reducing, 

Copying   Stand   tor    232 

Photographic      Printing      Frame,      Attached 

Back   tor    413 

Photographic      Printing      Papers,      Electric 

Switch    for   Exposing 181 

Photographic-Print  Washer,  Simple a7 

Photographic   Prints,    Washing    ^     92 

Photographic  Tray-Rocking  Stand    228 

Photographic  Worktable  for  Small  Quarters  215 
Photographs,  Distance  Marker  tor  Printing  226 
Photographs,      Electrically      Ignited      Flasu 

Light   for   Making 239 

Photographs,  Enlarging     217 

Photographs,  Lettering     320 

Photographs,  Lighting    Room    for   Making..    123 

Photographs,  Spirit     351 

Photographs,  Submarine     375 

Photographs,  Trimming    68 

Picture   Frame  and   Triangle   Clamp 230 

Picture-Frame  Corner  Joints 176 

Picture-Frame  Miter  Box,  Homemade 428 

Picture   Frames,   Mantel,   Made   in   Plaster..    226 

Pictures,    Enlarging    269 

Pictures,  Machine    for    Sketching 6 

Pictures,  Magazine,   Transferring    153 

Pictures,  Stereoscopic,    with    Ordinary    Cam- 
era         346 

Pin  Tray,  Brass    299 

Pincushion  for  the  Arm 288 

Pip,   Changing,   on   Card 67 

Pipe  Caps  Used  as  Castings  for  Engine  Pis- 
tons     40S 

Pipe,  Connecting  to  Sheet  Metal 222 

Pipe  Used  as  Leather   Punch 138 

Pipes,    Frozen,    Thawing   Out 387 

Pistol,    Disk-Throwing    244 

Fitter,    Cherry    309 

Plane  Iron,  Guide  tor  Grinding 279 

Plane,    Rabbet,    How    to   Make 152 

Plane-Table    Surveying     1 

Planing  Arrow   Sticks    319 

Planing  Rough-Grain    Boards    235 

Planing  Thin    Boards,    Bench   Stop   for 254 

Plant  Shelf  for  W^indow 324 

Planting   Seeds   in   Egg  Shells 307 

Plants,  Watering   at    Roots 286 

Plants,      Window,      Hose     Attachment      for 

Watering     298 

Plaster,  Mantel  Picture  Frames,  Made  in.  .  .  .    226 

Plaster  of  Paris,  Retarder  of 195 

Plate   Hangers    233 

Plates,    Heel     250 

Platinum,   Gold   and.   Cleaning 191 

Playground    Ferris   Wheel 161 

Playhouse,  Child's    265 

Plots,    To    Enlarge   or    Reduce 22 

Pocket  for    Inside    of    Book    Cover 238 

Pocket  Memorandum,  Homemade  Loose-Leaf  2S3 

Pocket  Rule.  Gauge  Attachment  for 233 

Pocket,  Utility  Bed,  Home  or  Traveling....    400 

Pointed   End   on   Hoe 458 

Poison    Bottles,    Simple   Way   to   Mark 126 

Polarity  Indicator   396 

Pole,   Bamboo,    Uses    for 173 

Pole,  Merry-Go-Round     162 

Poles,  Houses   Made  of • 85 

Polish,     Furniture     102,  458 

Polish,   Furniture,  for  Fine  Woods 216 

Polish,  Metal      68 

Polisher,  Floor,  Homemade 125 

Polishing   Gunstocks    452 

Pop-Corn   Popper    125 

Popgun,  Toy    240 

Porch   Swing,   Springs  on   Chains  of 47 

Portable  and  Folding  Bookcase  or  Closet...    296 

Portiere  Pole,  Fastening  in   Doorway 227 

Post  Cards,  Frame  for  Printing  from  Nega- 
tives         170 

Post,    Removable    273 

Postal  Cards,  Wood    292 

Potato    Peeler     425 

Potted  Plants,  Adjustable  Rod  for 379 

Poultry    Coop    247 

Poultry  Fencing,  Stretching 253 

Poultrv-Food  Chopper    291 

Poultry  Roost,   Insect-Proof    422 

Poultry  Shade     211 

Poultry  Water,  To  Prevent  from  Freezing..    355 
Poultry  Yards,  Automatic  Watering  System 

for     «6 

Powder,  Bug    457 

Power,  Light,   Windmill    for    307 

Power  Plant,   Small   Hydroelectric 314 


Power,  Revolving  Shaft  Without 274 

Power    Windmill    311 

Preserving  Flowers  in  Color  and  Form 127 

Preserving  Paint    in    Open    Cans 382 

Preserving  Paints   and   Pastes 418 

Press,  Homemade  Cut    327 

Presser,  Lard  and  Fruit 279 

Pressure,      Relieving,      on      Heated      Canned 

Foods   for  Opening    42 

Prick-Punch  Center  Gauge    453 

Printing   Frame,  To  Hold   Negative  in 241 

Prints,   Holding   in   Liquid-Filled  Tray 33 

Prints,   Photograph,   Timing    371 

Prints,  Photographic,    Washing    92,  168 

Profiles,   Aid   in   Sketching 314 

Projecting    Protractor    Readings 157 

Prony  Brake  for  Testing  Small  Motors 32 

Propeller     Wheel      Attachment,      Hand,      for 

Rowboat    413 

Propellers  for  Hand  Sled 334 

Protection,  Finger,  on  Laboratory  Vessels..    170 

Protector  Cap  for  Chisel  Handle 430 

Protractor  Readings,  Projecting 157 

Provision    Box,    Camp    95 

Pruning-Saw   Guard    197 

Puller,  Staple   196,   271 

Pulling    Nails    Straight,    Double-Claw    Ham- 
mer for    134 

Pulling  Wire   through. Curved   Electric  Fix- 
tures         173 

Pulse     Beats,  Reading,  With  Sun's  Rays....    128 

Pump,   Pitcher,   Pail  Hook   for 245 

Pump  Spout,  Filter  in 189 

Punch,   Homemade  Leather    452 

Purse,    Puzzle    236 

Push    Button,    Floor    144 

Pushmobile  Race    130 

Pushmobile   Racer  for  Ice 428 

Putty,  How  to  Preserve 358 

Putty,   Removing  Old   300 

Puzzle    Purse     236 

Puzzle,  Spool-and-Ball     446 

Puzzle    with    Figures 289 

"Q"  Trick    360 

Rabbet  Plane,  How  to  Make 152 

Race,   Pushmobile    130 

Rack,  Chisel     248 

Rack,  Clothes    166 

Rack,  Pencil    132 

Radium   Photograph,  How  to  Make 172 

Raft,    Swimming    200 

Rake,  Fish    423 

Rake,    Grass    196 

Razor  Blade,  Wafer,  Cutter  Made  of 240 

Razor  Blades,  Discarded  Wafer,  Use  for....  124 

Reading   Date   of   Worn   Coin 347 

Reducing  Amperage  of  Fuse  Wire.  . 322 

Reed  Furniture — A  Reed  Basket 257 

Reel,  Clothesline    249 

Reel,  Homemade  Clothesline 423 

Reel,  Hose,    Substitute    for 369 

Refinishing   Chairs    376 

Reflector,   Electric  Lamp,   for   Target 196 

Reflector     for     Viewing     Scenery     from     Car 

Window     212 

Refrigerator  for  Dry  and  Warm  Climates..  357 

Refrigerator,    Locating   Drip   Pan    under....  307 

Reinforcing  Chair  Bottoms 191 

Removable    Post     273 

Removing    Basketball    from    Closed-Bottom 

Receptacle    266 

Removing  Tight-Fitting  Can  Covers 391 

Renewing    Dry    Batteries 382 

Repair  tor  Broken  Lock  Keeper 208 

Repairing  a  Broken    Ball-Clasp    Purse 316 

Repairing  a  Broken  Knife  Handle 229 

Repairing  a    Coaster    Brake 422 

Repairing  a    Worn    Stop   Cock 414 

Repairing  Broken   Oilstone    249 

Repairing  Broken  Tenon   on  Chair  Post....  388 

Repairing  Broken  Whip    326 

Repairing  Rocker   on    Chair 196 

Repairing      Worn      Escapement      Wheel      of 

Clock     ,T2 

Repairing  Worn    Thimble    326 

Resistance-Wire    Connections,    Small,    Weld- 
ing       158 

Retarder   for  Plaster  of  Paris 195 

Reversing   Switch    for   Small   Motors 378 

Revolving  Shaft    Without    Power 274 

Revolving  Wheel.    Mysterious    152 

Rheostat,  Quickly    Made    178 


470 


Rheostat,  Small,  How  to  Make 393 

Ring,  Flutter,  How  to  Make 100 

Ring-Throwing   Game    2S7 

Ring  Trick    aoo 

Rings,  Brass,  Turning 400 

Rivet  Set,    Homemade    457 

Riveting,   Soldering   and 40 

Robe,  Automobile,   How    to  Make 122 

Rocker,      Developing-Tray     224 

Rocker  on  Chair,   Repaiuing ia6 

Rod,  Adjustable,   for  Potted  Plants 379 

Rod,  Casting,  One-Piece    59 

Rods,  Small,   Filing  in   Lathe 414 

Rods,  Various  Two  and  Three-Piece 69 

Roll    of    Papers,    Addressing 369 

Roller    Coaster,    Homemade 159 

Roller,  Garden     293 

Roller,  Homemade    Towel     249 

Roller  Skate  on   Bicycle  Wheel 201 

Roller  Skating,  Beginner's  Helper  for 120 

Rope   Oarlocks    201 

Rosette,   Tying,   in  Couch-Cover  Corner 310 

Rotary    Tuning    Coil     372 

Rowboat,  Hand  Propeller-Wheel  Attachment 

for     413 

Rowing  a  Boat,  Mirror  an  Aid  in 121 

Rubber-Band-Change    Trick    2S4 

Rubber  Stamp,   Substitute   for 102 

Rubber,  White,  on  Croquet  Arches 121 

Rubbing  Slats  for  W^ashing  Board 263 

Rudder,  Dory,  Holder  for fis 

Rule   Gauge    459 

Ruler,   Maulstick    Used  as 451 

Ruling    Blank    Books 290 

Runner  for  Go-Cart 287 

Rust     and     Corrosion,     Preserving     Shafting 

from    256 

Rust  Stains,  To  Remove  from  Clothing 174 

Sack    Holder    IZi 

Sadirons,    Holder   for   Set   of 293 

Safety  Catch   tor   Flour   Bin 454 

Safety    Pin,    Anti-Tangle 272 

Safety  Tips  on  Chair  Rockers 296 

Safety    Match-Box    Holder 418 

Sail  for  a  Boy's  Wagon 134 

Sander  Mandrel  for  Lathe 388 

Sandpapering  Machine,    Emergency 236 

Saw  and  Knife,  Combination  Meat 409 

Saw  Cut,  Starting    252 

Sawbuck,  Holding  Wood  in 177 

Scale,   Letter,   How   to  Make 356 

Scales,  To  Hold  Fish  while  Removing 309 

Scarecrow,    Garden-Bed     365 

Scene,  Theatrical  Night,  With  Appearance  of 

Fireflies      162 

Scenery,     Reflector    for    Viewing    from    Car 

Window   212 

Scissors,  Grinding   148 

Scissors   Sharpener    143 

Sconce,   Horn   Candle    298 

Scorching,  To  Prevent  Baking  Ovens  from..  298 

Score  Board,  Electric,  for  Indoor  Games....  277 

Scraper   Handle    227 

Scraper,    Kitchen-Utensil    147 

Scraper,    Shoe    254 

Scratch  Pads  of  Old  Labels,   To   Make 406 

Screen  and  Storm-Door  Cushion 422 

Screen,  Crystallization  Shown   on 216 

Screen-Door   Spring,    Homemade 218 

Screen,   Fly,   Exterior  Sliding 231 

Screen,    Tacking    on    Frame 296 

Screens,   Needle  for  Repairing 206 

Screw,   Broken,    Extracting 134 

Screw,   Small    Vise,    How   to   Make 295 

Screweye    Driver    231 

Screws,   Driving    310 

Screws  in   Tile  and   Brick   Walls,   Fastening  292 

Screws,  Locking,  in  Door  Hinges 102 

Screws,  Small  Machine,  How  to  Start 169 

Scrubbing    Brush,    Corner    Cleaner    Attach- 
ment for   12 

Secret      Compartment      in      Ordinary      Table 

Drawer     364 

Seed   Receptacle  for  Bird  Cages 147 

Seeds,   Drying    288 

Seeds,    Growing,    To    Prevent    Moles    from 

Damaging     182 

Seeds   in   Egg  Shells,  Planting 307 

Self-Feeding  Match  Box    335 

Settee  Rocker  and  Cradle,  Combination 46 

Setting  Colors   in    Fabrics 223 

Sewing    Box,    Window-Seat 186 

Sewing  Burlap,  Needle   for 151 


Sextant,  Simple   Jgo 

Shade  and   Awning,  Combined 164 

Shade,  Opening  for  Air  at  Top  of 297 

Shade,    Poultry    211 

Shade  Roller  and   Curtain-Pole    Bracket....    318 
Shade    Roller    Attached    to    Upper    Window 

Sash    246 

Shade  Rollers,   To   Prevent   from.  Unwinding  422 
Shades,  Paper,  for  Electric-Lignt  Globes.  ...    316 

Shaft  Coupling   347 

Shaft,    Revolving,    Without    Power 274 

Shafting,    Preserving    from    Rust    and    Cor- 
rosion         256 

Sharpener,    Pencil    237 

Sharpener,    Scissors    143 

Shaving     Cabinet     Mounted     on     Adjustable 

Pedestal     23 

Shaving  Mug,  Electric 385 

Sheet  Metal,    Connecting   Pipe    to 222 

Sheet  Music,  Preparing  for  Turning 372 

Shelf,  Cupboard-Door  Spice-13ox 185 

Shelf,   Easy  Way  to  Make 220 

Shelf,  Hinged,  Telescoping  Support  for 457 

Shelf,  Wire  Mesh  Used  as 250 

Shellac    Cement    50 

Shellac,  Stick,  How  to  Make 369 

Shellac,  To    Clean    from    Brush 319 

Shocking    Machine,    Small 363 

Shoe    Dressing,    Waterproof 325 

Shoe  Hanger    425 

Shoe   Heels,  Ice  Creeper  for 124 

Shoe   Pull  Made  of  Eyelet 292 

Shoe  Scraper    254 

Shoes,  Cleaning    and    Polishing 23 

Shoes,  Stretching   Tight-Fitting    377 

Shoe-Shining    Stand    240 

Shoestring    End    291 

Show-Window  Attraction,  Novel 171 

Show  Window,  Electric  Display  for 52 

Sickle,   Handle  Attachment   for 194 

Signal,  Electric  Fishing,  How  to  Make 98 

Silverware,  Cleaning  Bath  for 355 

Singers,  Mechanical  Aid  to 206 

Sink  a  Substitute  for  Dishpan 197 

Siphon,  Acid    222 

Siphon,  Compensating   396 

Siphon,  Starting    185 

Siphon,  To  Start    458 

Skates,  Holder  for  While   Sharpening 54 

Skates  Made  of  Wood 30 

Skating  Merry-Go-Round   57 

Sketching  Pictures,  Machine  for 6 

Sketching  Profiles,  Aid   in 314 

Ski   Staff,   How  to  Make 51 

Skiff,   How  to   Build 18 

Skimmer  for  Bottled  Milk 358 

Skimming   Spoon    391 

Skis,  Back   Thrust   Prevented   on 21S 

Skis,  Homemade 420 

Sled,  Hand,    Propellers   for 334 

Sled,  Monorail,  How  to  Make 50 

Sled,  Steering     57 

Sleepwalker,    Alarm    for 297 

Slicer,   Vegetable    254 

Slide-Opening  Cover  for  Plate  Holder 104 

Sliver    Extractor    250 

Smoking,  To  Prevent  Torch  Lights  from...    279 

Snap  Hooks,  Homemade 248 

Snowball  Maker   48 

Snowball  Thrower    47 

Snowshoes,  How  to  Make  and  Use  Them: 

Part     I — Shapes  of  Snowshoes 35 

Part  II — Making    the    Shoe 43 

Snowshoes,  Making    43 

Snowshoes,  Shapes  of   35 

Soap    Shake    175 

Soft  Hat,  To  Keep  Crease  in 254 

Softening  Tone  of  Talking  Machine 328 

Soldering  Acid,   Brush   for  Applying 2S3 

Soldering  and  Riveting 40 

Soldering  Small    Work,    Burner    for 418 

Sounder  for  Wireless-Telegraph  Messages.  .    384 

Sounder,  Telegraph.  Homemade    119 

Spark  Coil,  Vibrator  for 309 

Spice-Box  Shelf,  Cupboard-Door 185 

Spirit  Photographs    351 

Splice   for  Round   Belts 446 

Splinter,  To  Remove  from  Flesh 319 

Spool  and    Ball    Puzzle 446 

Spool,  Non-Rolling     55 

Spool,  Thread,    Non-Rolling    240 

Spool,  Twine     191 

Spool,  Wire  Wound  on.  Measuring  Length  of  365 
Spoon,  Holding  on  Hot  Dish 437 


471 


Spoon,  Skimming    391 

Spot  and  Colored  Ligiits,  Lantern  for 209 

Spring  Hinge,    Smail    291 

Spring,  Homemade  Screen-Door   218 

Springboard    235 

Springs  on  Cliains  of  Porcii   Swing 47 

Springs,  Small   Coil,  How   to  Make 197 

Sprinkler,   Homemade   Lawn 366 

Sprocket,    Rear    Bicycle,    Removing •413 

Squaring  Wood   Stock 99 

Stain,  Brown,  for  Wood 189 

Stain,  Old-Oak .  . 225 

Stains,  Acid,    Removing   from   Cloth 19b 

Stains,  Iodine,    Removing    55 

Stains,  Rust,  To  Remove  from  Clothing 174 

Stains,  Vegetable,  Removing   176 

Stairway  Handrails,  Detachable  Clamp  for.  .    452 

Stamp,  Electrotype,   How   to   Make 419 

Stamp  Moistener    320 

Stand,  Shoe-Shining     240 

Stand,  Telephone,  for  Sloping  Desk 11<I 

Stand,  Washtub     •   13s 

Staple   Puller    196,  2/1 

Star,   Five-Pointed    2Zb 

Start  Small   Machine  Screws,  How  to 169 

Stationery,   How   to   Emboss 454 

Steam-Engine    Cylinders,    Small,    Made   from 

Seamless  Brass  Tubing 396 

Steam-Turbine    Boat,    Model 323 

Steam-Turbine   Engine,    Homemade ISO 

Steel,  Cleaning  of  Grease  and  Stains 239 

Steering    Sled,    A 57 

Stemmer,    Fruit    94 

Stencil,  Copper,  for  Marking  Laundry,  How 

to    Make    299 

Stereoscopic     Pictures     with     an     Ordinary 

Camera     346 

Stick  for  Lowering  Top  Sash  of  Window.  .  .  .    lt)2 

Stick  Holder  for  Chopping  Block 191 

Stick  Shellac,  How  to  Make 369 

Still,  Laboratory,  Cooling  Tube  for 1S7 

Stilts,    Adjustable    11 

Stirring  Machine,  Electric 165 

Stirring  Stick    456 

Stocking-Stretcher  Form    190 

Stone    Jars,    Carrying 309 

Stool,  Milk     384 

Stool,  Woven-Top     25b 

Stop  Cock,    Worn,    Repairing 414 

Stop,  Curtain    296 

Stop,  Door    157 

Stop  on  Chair  Rocker  for  Baby 153 

Stopper,    Inkwell    196 

Storage  Battery,  Filled,  Alarm  to  Designate.    253 

Stove,  Canoe   103 

Stove,  Cook,  Oil  Burner  for 145 

Stovepipe,   Bushing   in  Chimney  Hole 231 

Stove-Wood  Carrier    237 

Stoves,    Camp    97 

Strainer,  Cover    149 

Strainer  for    Milk    Pail 53 

Strap   Hinge,    Applying 280 

Straw  Hat,  To  Hold  on  Head 58 

Strawberries,  Clean,  Growing 133 

.■stretching  a  Curtain  without  a  Frame 158 

Stretching  Poultry    Fencing    253 

Stretching  Tight-Pitting  Shoes   377 

String  and  Ball  Trick 273 

String,  Magic   165 

Stringer,    Fish    146 

Submarine   Photographs    375 

Substitute  for  a  Hose  Reel 369 

Substitute  for  a  Rubber  Stamp 102 

Substitute  for  Broken  Bench-Vise  Nut 143 

Substitute  for  Candles    247 

Substitute  for  Cleats  on  Boards 322 

Substitute  for  Glaziers'  Points 293 

Substitute  for   Iron-Holder  Knob 388 

Substitute  for   Pen    270 

Substitute  Penholder    252 

Substitutes  for  Drawing  Instruments 146 

Suitcase,   Carrier   for 114 

Sulphuric  Acid,   Mixing 278 

Summer    Dish    Washing 356 

Sunlight   Flasher   for  Garden 179 

Support,  Kettle-Handle    49 

Support,  Telescoping,  for  Hinged  Shelf 457 

Supporter  for  Double  Clothesline 288 

Supports  for  Camp-Fire  Utensils 371 

Surprise  Water  Bottle 218 

Survey,  Camera,  Plotting  a 13 

Surveying,  Camera  J 

Surveying,  Plan^-Table    1 

Surveyor,   Boy    .1.  7,     13 


Surveyor's  Transit,  How  to  Make....... 20 

Sweatband,  Hat,  Reducing  Size  of 132 

Sweeping    Compound 430 

Swimming   Raft    200 

Swimming — Springboard     235 

Swing,  Chair    98 

Swinging-Pendulum  Trick   280 

Switches,    Electric    Lights    Controlled    from 

Two    or   More 276 

Table,  Double  Top  for 78 

Table  Legs,  Loose,  Fastening 289 

Table,  Old,  Use   for 392 

Table  Top,  Workbench  Equipment  for 383 

Tablespoon  End  Used  as  Lemon  Squeezer...    225 

Tack   Puller,  Emergency   289 

Tack  Puller,  Homemade .    172 

Tacking  a  Screen  on  Frame 296 

Talking  Machine,    Remodeling    151 

Talking  Machine,   Softening  Tone  of 328 

Talking  Machines,  Needle  Box  for 263 

Tan  Leather,  To  Color  Black 174 

Tank-Development    Methods    Used    in    Tray 

Development    428 

Tannin   Stains,   Removing  from  Teacups....    255 

Taper  Ferrule,  How  to  Make 380 

Taps,    Small,   Making 197 

Target,  Electric-Lamp  Reflector  for 196 

Teacups,  Removing  Tannin   Stains   from....    255 

Telegraph  Code   on   Typewriter  Keys 313 

Telegraph,  Flash-Light,  on  Kite  Line 155 

Telegraph  Sounder,  Homemade    119 

Telephone  Stand  for  Sloping  Desk 112 

Telephoto  Attachment  for  Hand  Camera....    136 

Temperature   Alarm    345 

Tennis  Net,  Tightening   200 

Tenon  on  Chair  Post,  Repairing  Broken 388 

Tenoned  Joint,  How  to  Lock 339 

Tent,    Wall    Pockets    in 97 

Testing  Dry  Batteries    266 

Testing    Instrument,   Electrical,    for   Experi- 
menters        328 

Thawing  Out  Frozen  Pipes 387 

Theaters,   Child's  Seat   for 437 

Theatrical   Night  Scene   with  Appearance   of 

Fireflies      162 

Thermo  Engine,  Atmospheric : .    120 

Thermometer,    Outside,   Illuminating 122 

Thimble,    Repairing   Worn 326 

Thread    Spool,    Non-Rolling 240 

Threads  on  Wood  Shafts 291 

Tie  a  Hammock,  To 286 

Tie  Rack  and  Collar  Holder,  Combination.  .  .      30 

Tie-Pin  Holder    294 

Tightening  a  Tennis  Net 200 

Tilting   Inkstand    300 

Time  Chart,    Compass    378 

Time   Indicator  for  Medicine  Bottles 138 

Time  Light.    Electric    S62 

Timing  Photo  Printing   245 

Timing  Photograph    Prints    371 

Tin   Ball,  Cutting  from  Child's  Finger 436 

Tin  Can   Used   for  Watering   Chickens 144 

Toasting  Bread  Over  an  Open   Fire 11 

Tone  of  Talking  Machine,  Softening 328 

Tongue  Holder  for   Bov's  Wagon 193 

Tongue  of  a  Shoe,  Holding  in  Place 238 

Tongues,    Buckle,    Replacing 331 

Tool  for  Amateur  Draftsmen,   Combination.    324 

Tool  Holders  Made  of  Brass  Clips 414 

Tools,  Homemade  Graining 200 

Top,  Double,  for  Table 78 

Torch  Lights,  To   Prevent  from   Smoking...    279 

Torch,  Small   326 

Tourniquet,  Emergency 206 

Towel  Roller   384 

Towel   Roller  Brackets    223 

Towel   Roller,  Homemade 249 

Towels,     Drying,     in     Photographer's     Dark 

Room    331 

Toy  Balloons,  Inflating   167 

Toy  Bank,  Homemade    366 

Toy  Parachute  Cut-Away  for  Kite  Lines. . . .   372 
Toy  Parachutes,  Kite-Line  Cutaway  for....   308 

Toy  Popgun   :    ■  ■  w- ?c3 

Transferring  Magazine   Pictures Hi 

Transformer,   Small   Bell-Ringing,  Construc- 
tion   of    348,  352 

Transit,  Surveyor's,  How  to  Make 20 

Transparent  Paper,  To  Make 11 

Trap,  Mouse    178,  229 

Trap,  Muskrat     212 

Traveler,    Kite-Line    228 

Tray,  Brass   Pin    **': 


i7S 


Tray,  Combination   Needle  and  Tliread 72 

Tray,  Developing,  Made  of  Tin  Can 121 

Tray  Development,  Tank-Development  Meth- 
ods  Used  in 428 

Tray,  Holding    Prints   in   Liquid-Pilied .'!!!!  !      33 

Tray,  Milk-Bottle 235 

Tray-Kocking-   Stand,   Photographic.'!!!!!.'!.'   228 

Trellis,  Flower,  Umbrella  Used  as 164 

Trellis,  Raising  Cucumbers  on 445 

Trick,  Bottle-Opening     '  '    223 

Trick   Bottles  and  Glasses 460 

Trick,  Card-and-Coin    '      41 

Trick,  Corks-in-a-Box     335 

Trick,  Die-and-Box    141 

Trick,  Dissolving-Coin '  '  '    272 

Trick,  Finger-Ring    '■'      55 

Trick,  Hindoo  Sand 3OS 

Trick,  Lightning-Calculation    101 

Trick  ot  Taking  Dollar  Bill  from  Apple 263 

Trick,   "Q"     360 

Trick,  Ring     3O0 

Trick,  Rubber-Band-Change    284 

Trick,  String-and-Ball    273 

Trick,  Swinging-Pendulum   280 

Trick  with  Knives  and  Glasses 227 

Tricks    Performed    with    Thumbs    Tied    To- 

gether    281 

Trousers  Hanger    39I 

Trout  Fishing  with  Fly  and   Bait.'. .  .'.'.'.'.Vs,      79 

Trunk  Mystery   267 

Tube,    Drinking    ! .  92 

Tuning  Coil,  Rotary !  !  !  ! !    372 

Turning  Brass    Rings    '    400 

Twine  Ball    Holder,   Simple 239 

Twine  Cutter  for  Use  at  Wrapping  Counter  185 

Twine  Spool     191 

Typewriter  Keys,  Telegraph  Code  on,..!!!!    313 
Typewriting   on    Card   Stock 458 

Umbrella  Holder  for  Display   Purposes 170 

Umbrella  Used  as  Flower  Trellis 164 

Upholstered  Furniture,  Homemade  Brush  for 

Cleaning    188 

Upholstering,  Cleaning  Dirt  from  Tufts  in.  .  175 

Utensil  Cover,  Opening  for  Steam  in 288 

Utensils,  Camp-Fire,    Supports    for 371 

Utensils,  Paper-Pulp,   Mending    375 

Vacuum   Experiment,   Interesting 250 

Valve,    Automatic,   for  Funnel 317 

Vane,   Wind    99 

Varnish,    Removing    !..!!!!!    126 

Varnished  Candles  Burn  Longer !  !  !    321 

Varnishing  Bases  for  Electric  Apparatus...    324 

Vase,   Hanging    102 

Vaulting-Pole  Attachments   !  !  !  '    1  P4 

Vaulting-Pole  Holder     361 

Vegetable  Slicer     254 

Vegetable  Stains,  Removing   176 

Vent   for  Pouring  Heavy  Liquids 387 

Ventilator,   Window,  to  Prevent  Drafts 248 

Vessels,  Laboratory,  Finger  Protection  on..    170 

Vibrator  for  Spark  Coil 309 

Vignetter,    Photo    238 

Vise,  Bench,    Homemade    149 

Vise,  Clamp  Used  as 41O 

Vise,  Homemade   Bench    !    244 

Vise  Jaw,  Attaching  to  Bench ! ! !    176 

Vise  Screw,  Small,  How  to  Make 295 

Vise  Used  as  Caliper  Gauge 172 

Voltmeter,    Pocket   Direct-Current 397 

Wagon,  Boy's,  Sail  for   I34 

Wagon,  Boy's,  Tongue  Holder  for 193 

Wall   Pockets  in   Tent 97 

Wall-Paper  Cleaner 266,  273 

Walls,  Painted  or  Frescoed,  To  Clean 187 

Walls,  Tile  and  Brick,  Fastening  Screws  in.    292 

Walnuts,   Hulling    162    295 

War  Kite,  How  to  Make .'  108 

Wash  Bottle  for  Laboratory  Use 458 

Washbasin   Bottom,  To  Prevent  from  Wear- 

ing  Out    34 

Washbasin   Holder    289 

Washboard,  To  Prevent  from  Slipping  in  Tub  103 

Washer,    Simple    Photographic-Print 97 

Washing  Board,   Rubbing  Slats   for 263 

Washing  Photographic  Prints    168 

Washtub    Stand    138 

Wastebasket,   Wire,   Rim   of  Wrapped   with 

„     Felt     ": 158 

w^aste-Paper    Basket    320 

Watch  Demagnetizer,  How  to  Make 150 

iWatch,  How   to   Demagnetize 290 


Water  Bottle,  Surprise 218 

Water,  Distilling   Apparatus   for 112 

Water  Filter    109 

Water  Heater,    Electric .  '  sV    243 

Water  Heating  Coil   in   Furnace  Pipe .'  294 

Water  Meter,  Homemade    48 

Water  Motor,  How  to  Make 303 

Water,  Surplus,  Scraping  Off  on  Grindstone!    188 

Water  Wheel,  How  to  Make 301 

Watering  Plants    at    Roots 286 

Watering  System,     Automatic,     for     Poultry 

Yards    66 

Watering  Window  Plants,  Hose  Attachment 

for    298 

Waterproof  Shoe   Dressing    ! ! !  "   325 

Welding      Small      Resistance-Wire     Connec- 
tions         158 

Wet  Batteries,  Protecting  Binding  Posts  on 

from    Corrosion     252 

Wet   Battery,   Homemade 340 

Wheel,  Mysterious  Revolving 152 

Whetting   Block    375 

Whetting,  Chisel   Holder   for ! !  ! !    317 

Whip,    Repairing   Broken 326 

Whirligig  Clapper  453 

Whistle    41 

Whistle,   Homemade    ! ! !  ! 454 

Whitewash,     To     Make     Stick     to     Surfaces 

Coated    233 

Wind  Vane     99 

Wind  Vane  with  Electric  Indicator,  How'to 

„.    Build     305 

Winding,  Holding  Small  Armatures  for 118 

Windmill   for   Light    Power 307 

Windmill,  Power 311 

Window  Casing,    Mirror   Hinged   to !!!'    355 

Window  Catch  Used   for  Locking  Extension 

Table    42 

Window  Glass,  Loose,  Holder  for 149 

Window  Lock    320 

Window,  Plant  Shelf  for !.!!!!"    324 

Window  Sash,  To  Prevent  from  Freezing  to 

^.    Sill     101 

Window  Sash,  Upper,  Shade  Roller  Attached 

to   246 

Window-Seat  Sewing  Box I86 

Window-Shade    Guides    286 

Window,  Stick  for  Lowering  Top  Sash  of...    162 

Window  Ventilator  to   Prevent  Drafts 248 

Wing  Nut,  How  to  Make 182 

Wing  Nuts,  Homemade    446 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Bobsled,  Coas't- 

ing,  Four-Passenger 24 

Winter   Sports,   Devices   for — Bobsled,   Guide 

Ropes  on 155 

Winter   Sports,   Devices  for — Bobsled,  Inex- 
pensive             49 

Winter    Sports,    Devices    for — Game    Played 

on    Ice    52 

Winter    Sports,    Devices    for — Ice    Boat    and 

Catamaran    27 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Ice  Glider  .  .  .  !  31 
Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Monorail  Sled.  50 
Winter    Sports,    Devices    for — Propellers    for 

Hand    Sled    334 

Winter      Sports,      Devices      for — Pushmobile 

Racer   for   Ice 428 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Skates  Made  of 

Wood    30 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Skating  Merry- 

Go-Round    57 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Ski  Staff !      51 

Winter      Sports,      Devices      for — Skis,      Back 

Thrust  Prevented  on 216 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Skis,  Homemade  420 
Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Snowball  Maker  48 
Winter      Sports,      Devices      for  —  Snowball 

Thrower    47 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Snowshoes,  How 

to  Make  and  Use  Them 35       43 

Winter  Sports,  Devices  for — Steering  Sled..      57 

Wire  Clothespin   387 

Wire  Expansion   Meter    410 

Wire  Mesh    Used   as   Shelf 250 

Wire,  Pulling   through   Curved   Electric  Fix- 
tures         173 

Wire  Wound  on  Spool,  Measuring  Length  of  365 

Wireless — Lighted  Lamp  Deception 26U 

Wireless  Stations,   Distance   Chart   for 269 

Wireless  Telegraph  Messages,  Sounder  for.  .  384 
Wireless  Telephone    Set,    Simple,    Construc- 

tion    of    337,341 

Wood,  Brown  Stain   for 189 

Wood  Clothes    Peg    406 


473 


Wood,  Holding  in  Sawbuck 177 

Wood,  Homemade  Countersink  for 154 

Wood  Latlie,  How  to  Make 434 

Wood  Panels,  Decorative    , 58 

Wood  Postal  Cards   292 

Wood,  Raising-   Dents   in 381 

Wood  Scraper  Handle    452 

Wood  Shafts,    Threads    on 291 

Wood,  Skates  Made  of 30 

Wood  Stock,    Squaring    99 

Wood,  To  Harden  Small  Blocks  of 423 

Wood  Turning,    Artistic    128 

Woods,  Fine,  Furniture  Polish  for 216 


Workbench,  Back    Stop   for 225 

Workbench  Equipment   for  Table  Top......    383 

Worktable,    Photographic,    for    Small    Quar- 
ters        21E 

Wounds,    Small,    Application    for 304 

Woven-Top    Stool    256 

Wrench   for   Different-Size   Nuts 379 

Wring-er,  Mop,  How  to  Make 171 

Wrist    Brace    144 

Writing  Board   for  Children . .    325 

Writing  Name  Reversed  on  Paper  Placed  on 

Forehead     392 


CHILDREN 


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