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McGOWAN 
BOYNE  VALEY 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


ANTIQUITIES 


OYAL    TARA 


OLD    MELLIFONT 


DOWTH 


NEWGRANGE 


MONASTERBOICE 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2008  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/boynevalleyOOmcgo 


THE    BOYNE    VALLEY 


BY 

^'  Kenneth  MacGowan 


PUBLISHED    BY 


Kamac  Publications 
3  St.  John's  Terrace,  Mount  Brown,  Dublin  8. 


n 

INTRODUCTION 


'  tllVr^ 


The  Boyne  Valley,  covering  an  area  adjoining  the  banks  of 
the  river  Mattock  is,  perhaps,  the  greatest  source  of  historic 
interest  in  Ireland.  Here,  the  relics  of  both  pagan  and  Christian 
Ireland  are  closely  linked  and  stretch  over  a  period  of  some 
4,000  yeazs. 


The  dark  days  of  paganism  were  marked  by  a  culture  and 
civilisation  which,  if  not  more  advanced,  was  at  least  comparable 
with  that  of  other  countries.  Significant,  indeed,  was  the  manner 
in  which  the  era  of  Christianity  began  to  convert  the  Irish  people 
to  new  beliefs. 


In  the  heart  of  paganism,  within  a  few  miles  of  Tara,  St. 
Patrick  began  his  work.  This  work,  however,  brought  about  the 
decay  of  Tara  ;  its  great  festivities  and  cultural  activities  gradually 
came  to  an  end.  Midway  through  the  first  millennium  of  Christianity, 
monasteries  were  established  and  saintly  monks  worked  unceasingly 
to  spread  the  Faith. 


The  growth  of  Christianity  was  marked  by  troubled  times  when 
the  monks  were  forced  to  go  into  hiding.  For  this  purpose,  as  well 
as  other  uses,  round  towers  were  built  to  provide  protection.  Also 
prominent  amongst  the  relics  of  early  Christianity  are  several 
High  Crosses  of  Celtic  design,  embellished  with  Biblical  scenes. 


The  Boyne  Valley,  rich  in  antiquities  and  monastic  ruins 
encompasses  the  Hill  of  Tara,  Dowth,  Newgrange,  Monasterboice 
and  Old  Mellifont.  The  following  pages  contain  a  short  history  of 
of  these  places,  compiled  from  various  reliable  sources. 


221  ,'J781 


5 

CONTENTS 

Royal  Tara  Page 

Once  the  seat  of  Ireland's 
Kings.  A  link  with  pagan 
times    . .  . .  . .  .  ♦  •  •  •  •  •  •  7 


Old  Mellifont 
-•'A  i2th  century  Monastic 
establishment  of  the  Cis- 
tercian Monks 


DOWTH   AND    NeWGRANGE 

Ancient   burial   places 

where  royalty  were  buried     . .  . .  . .  •  •  i? 


Monasterboice 

A  6th  century  foundation 
home  of  Ireland's  greatest 
High  Crosses  . .  . .  .  •  •  •  •  •  •  •         23 


K/T\ 


An  aerial  view  of  the  Hill  of  Tara 


ROYAL  TARA 

Where  142  Kings  Reigned 

FEW'royal  residences  can  boast  a  history  like  that  which 
made'Tara  famous  throughout  Europe  and  caused  it  to 
be  recognised  as  the  cukural  and  pohtical  capital  of 
Ireland.  Dating  back  to  about  4,000  B.C.  it  is  believed  to  have 
been  the  centre  from  which  one  hundred  and  forty-two  Kings 
reigned. 

It  was  at  Tara  that  the  Lia  Fail,  the  Stone  of  Destiny  and 
talisman  of  the  Gael,  was  enshrined.  So  too  it  was  from  Royal 
Tara  that  the  funeral  processions  of  the  dead  Kings  began  their 
journey  to  the  burial  grounds  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Boyne. 

Tara  Hill,  situated  some  five  hundred  feet  above  the  rich 
pasture  lands  of  Co.  Meath,  commands  an  overall  view  of  the 
surrounding  countryside  and  it  is  said  that  at  least  eleven 
important  landmarks  were  visible  from  its  summit. 

Historians  of  various  ages  told  many  stories  of  the  festivals 
and  other  activities  for  which  Tara  was  famous  throughout 
Europe.  But,  with  the  passing  of  the  centuries  most  of  these 
legends,  which  were  not  committed  to  paper,  have  been  lost 
for  all  time. 

It  is  known,  however,  that  every  third  year  an  assembly  was 
held  there  at  which  the  laws  and  customs  of  the  land  were  dis- 
cussed and  instituted.  Chieftains  from  all  parts  of  the  country 
attended  and  all  resolutions  passed  were  duly  recorded  in  the 
Roll  of  Kings  before  becoming  law. 

Great  Harvest  Festival 

But  it  was  for  the  great  harvest  Feis  or  Festival,  which 
marked  the  Feast  of  Samhain,  that  Tara  became  renowned. 


Nowhere  in  the  western  world  at  that  period  was  there  to  be 
found  anything  to  equal  the  gaiety  and  splendour  of  royal  Tara. 

The  six-day  festival  was  the  event  of  the  year  and  the  days 
preceeding  its  opening  saw  the  five  chariot  roads,  which  led  to 
Tara  from  all  parts  of  Ireland,  thronged  with  people  coming  to 
participate.  Even  before  Imperial  Rome,  Athens  or  Troy 
became  recognised  as  cultural  cities,  Ireland  had  its  own 
civilisation. 

Both  rich  and  poor  were  welcomed  to  the  royal  Palace. 
Its  twelve  magnificent  portals  were  thrown  open  to  admit 
princes,  poets,  athletes,  bards  and  druids  with  their  flowing 
beards.  Jugglers  and  trick-o-the-loop  performers  were  also 
present  to  provide  amusement  with  their  peculiar  talents. 

Music  played  an  important  part  in  the  festivities.  It  was 
from  the  name  Teamhair — house  of  music — that  Tara  took  its 
name.  So  it  is  not  surprising  that  musicians  from  all  parts  of 
the  country  were  to  be  found  in  attendance  at  the  Feis. 

At  sunset  each  evening  the  guests  adjourned  to  the  huge 
banquet  hall — one  of  the  most  magnificent  buildings  in  Europe. 
Capable  of  holding  one  thousand  people  at  a  sitting,  it  was  700 
feet  long  and  90  feet  wide.  The  most  elaborate  dishes  were 
prepared  and  roast  goose,  mallard,  pheasant,  venison,  oxen  and 
boars  were  served. 

Hundreds  of  servants  tended  the  needs  of  those  present,  both 
in  the  banquet  hall  and  the  palace  which  was  sub-divided  to 
cater  for  the  guests  and  was  allocated  for  the  use  of  those  of  a 
particular  degree  of  profession,  trade  or  rank. 

The  coming  of  Christianity  to  Europe  began  a  new  era  for 
the  western  world.  It  was  only  a  matter  of  time  until  mission- 
aries would  come  to  convert  Ireland  to  Christianity.  But  four 
centuries  passed  before  this  was  to  come  about. 

During  this  period,  an  important  part  in  the  development  of 
Tara  was  played  by  Cormac  Mac  Art  who  reigned  in  the  third 
century  A.D.  In  the  course  of  his  forty  years  Kingship  he  es- 
tablished schools  of  literature,  metal- work  and  military  training. 


However,  his  work  came  to  an  abrupt  end  when  he  received 
face  wounds  during  a  skirmish.  Lest  he  should  become  the 
victim  of  a  spell,  which  forbade  anyone  physically  blemished 
from  ruling,   he  retired  and  gave  control  to  his  son  Cairbre. 

Decline  and  Fall 

Cormarc'died  at  the  age  of  ninety  the  victim  of  a  druid's  evil 
wish.  He  was  choked  by  a  salmon  bone  because  he  had  reasoned 
that  there  was  a  God  and  was  bold  enough  to  proclaim  that  soon 
Ireland  would  come  to  know  of  His  existence. 

Little  more  than  a  century  passed  before  his  claim  became 
a  reality.  For,  in  433,  St.  Patrick's  historic  meeting  with  the 
High  King  Laoghaire  took  place.  The  Paschal  fire  spread 
quickly  throughout  the  land  and  the  glory  of  Tara  began  to 
diminish. 

Christianity  spread  and  with  the  death  of  Diarmuid  Mac 
Cearbhall  in  the  mid-sixth  century  the  Tara  Feis  came  to  an 
end.  Gradually  the  Hill  became  abandoned  and  the  buildings 
began  to  crumble  into  ruin. 

The  title,  King  of  Tara,  would  no  longer  be  given  to  kings 
throughout  the  land  and  a  monk's  prophecy  "  The  city  of  Tara 
shall  first  be  inhabited  many  hundred  years,  and  thereafter 
remain  without  a  dweller  "  camie  true. 

There  is  a  legend  that  Tara  became  deserted  because  it's 
King  had  been  cursed  for  slaying  an  outlaw  who  had  been 
refused  sanctuary.  It's  doom  is  said  to  have  been  foretold  by 
St.  Ruadhan,  a  sixth  century  Abbot  and  Bishop  v/hose  anger 
was  roused  because  the  High  King,  Diarmuid,  had  violated  the 
law  of  sanctuary  and  put  to  death  a  robber  who  claimed  Church 
protection. 

The  Stone  of  Destiny 

The  Lia  Fail,  Stone  of  Destiny,  though  somewhat  insignificant 
in  appearance,  is  of  historic  importance.    It  is  thought  to  have 


lO 


been  erected  at  Tara  about  one  thousand  years  ago  but  there  is 
Httle  evidence  to  confirm  the  accuracy  of  this  behef. 

According  to  tradition  this  stone  was  the  original  Jacob's 
Pillar  which  was  brought  to  Ireland  by  the  Milesians.  Early 
bardic  accounts  claim  that  at  the  inauguration  of  a  true  High 
King  the  Lia  Fail  gave  three  mighty  roars.  It  is  perhaps, 
significant,  that  a  true  Irish  King  was  always  of  Milesian  stock. 

Today,  little  evidence  remains  to  bear  witness  to  the  various 
buildings  which  played  such  an  important  part  in  the  history 
of  Tara.  A  triple  earth  mound  marks  the  Fort  of  Synods,  once 
a  place  of  great  importance  where  St.  Patrick,  St.  Adamnan 
and  St.  Ruadhan  presided  some  fifteen  centuries  ago. 

So  too,  the  Fort  of  Kings,  Grainne's  Fort  and  King 
Laoghaire's  Fort,  are  little  more  than  names.  But,  the  Hill  of 
Tara  has  remained  famous  and  the  decades  that  lie  ahead  will 
continue  to  add  to  its  glory  as  one  of  the  greatest  places  of 
historic  interest  in  Ireland. 


II 


OLD  MELLIFONT 

•'"  Where  Monks  once  Trod 


Duriogrthe  eleventh  century  Ireland  was  in  a  state  of  chaos 
and  a  dark  age  existed  in  which  barbarism  reigned.  The  native 
Monasticism  was  suppressed  to  such  an  extent  that  it  never 
again  rose  to  its  original  splendour.  But  throughout  this  period 
of  suppression  the  Irish  people  held  fast  to  their  insular 
traditions,  for  they  realised  that  the  Monastic  way  was  the 
right   way. 

In  the  early  twelfth  century  a  reform  of  the  barbaric  customs 
started  and  was  well  under  way  by  the  middle  of  the  century. 
Malachy,  Archbishop  of  Armagh,  was  the  prelate  who  crowned 
the  work.  As  well  as  being  a  man  of  ideas  and  ambitions,  he 
was  a  close  friend  of  the  great  St.  Bernard,  Abbot  of  the 
Cistercian   Monastery   at   Citeaux,   France. 

On  a  piece  of  land  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Mattock  a  few 
miles  from  Monasterboice  donated  to  him  by  King  Donnchad 
O'Cearbhaill,  he  set  about  establishing  the  first  Cistercian 
house  in  Ireland,  in  the  year  1142.  The  small  community 
consisted  of  four  Irish  and  nine  French  monks  who  had  been 
sent  by  St.  Bernard  at  Malachy's  request. 

The  foundation  was  called  Mellifont,  meaning  Honey 
Fountain.  The  Abbey,  which  took  fifteen  years  to  build,  was 
magnificent  in  design  and  nothing  of  its  beauty  had  previously 
been  seen  in  Ireland.  It's  Solemn  Consecration  in  11 57  was  an 
event  of  national  importance  and  was  attended  by  the  Papal 
Legate,  High  King,  Murtough  O'Loughlin,  Bishops  and 
Noblemen. 

This  great  event  met  with  wide  support  and  showed  clearly 
the  Irish  people's  love  for  the  Monastic  system.   Many  gifts  of 


Z2 


The  Lavabo  at  old  jMellifont 


13 

gold,  incliiding  a  chalice  for  the  High  Altar,  and  costly  furnish- 
ings for  the  nine  Altars  were  donated,  together  with  a  portion  of 
land  and  some  cattle. 
^'" 

Survived  Many  Attacks 
^■. 

Along' with  many  other  religious  houses,  Mellifont  was 
suppressed  by  Henry  VHI  in  the  year  1539.  The  Abbot  and 
community  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  were  driven  from 
the  monastery  which  was  leased  to  Sir  Gerald  Moore,  the  Earl 
of  Drogheda,  who  took  up  residence  there. 

It  provided  an  excellent  residence  and  place  of  defence 
against  attacks  from  Irish  rebels.  It  survived  many  such 
onslaughts,  especially  during  the  Rebellion  of  164 1;  the  seige  of 
nearby  Drogheda  by  Cromwellian  troops  in  1649  and  again 
during  the  march  of  the  Williamite  army  towards  the  Boyne  in 
1690. 

Today,  nothing  but  ruins  remain  to  testify  to  the  sad  story  of 
Mellifont's  destruction  by  those  who  fought  against  Catholicism. 
As  was  the  usual  practice,  the  monks  were  their  own  architects 
and  built  to  the  uniform  plan,  common  to  all  Cistercian  Abbeys, 
so  it  is  comparatively  easy  to  visualise  the  appearance  of  the 
original  buildings. 

The  ancient  Gateway,  which  comprised  the  main  entrance  to 
the  Abbey  enclosure,  was  a  massive  tower,  square  and  stern, 
with  an  elevated  turret  at  its  north  east  angle.  On  either  side  was 
a  range  of  buildings  which  included  the  hospice  and  infirmary, 
also  the  house  for  travellers  and  stables  for  their  horses. 

Within  the  enclosure  lies  a  rather  confused  mass  of  ruins, 
arches,  walls  and  columns.  In  general  outline  they  form  a 
quadrangle.  The  Church,  which  was  cruciform,  occupied  the 
north  side  of  the  quadrangle  and  is  now  unrecognisable  except 
for  the  bases  of  the  columns. 

It  consisted  of  a  nave  with  aisles,  120  ft.  by  54  ft.,  a  chancel 
and  transepts.  At  the  intersection  of  the  transept  and  nave  was 


14 

the  lantefn,  above  which  rose  the  bell  tower.  The  entire  nave 
was  paved  with  beautiful  red  and  blue  tiles  made  by  the  monks. 
Some  were  inscribed  with  the  words  '  Ave  Maria  '  while  others 
were  decorated  with  the  fleur-de-lis  emblem. 

In  the  chancel,  which  measured  some  42  ft.  by  26  ft.,  is  the 
remains  of  the  basis  of  the  High  Altar.  On  the  Epistle  side  are 
the  piscina  and  the  remains  of  the  sedilia,  or  seats,  used  by  the 
ministers  of  the  Mass.  On  the  Gospel  side  is  an  arched  recess 
with  ornamental  moulding  which  is  thought  to  form  the  tomb 
of  King  Donnchad  O  Cearbhaill. 

The  Church,  although  not  very  large,  was  a  magnificent 
piece  of  architecture  and  formed  a  noble  tribute  to  its  builders. 
It  underwent  some  alterations  between  the  13th  and  15th 
centuries  according  to  the  advancing  changes  in  the  Gothic 
style.  The  destruction  which  reduced  it  to  ruins  remains  an 
unwritten  chapter  in  the  history  of  Mellifont. 

The  Chapter  house  which  adjoined  the  Church  measured 
some  30  ft.  by  19ft.  and  was  considered  to  be  one  of  the  finest 
examples  of  Norman  or  early  English  style  architecture  in  the 
country.  It  was  probably  the  last  building  to  be  added  to 
Mellifont  and  was  noted  for  its  ornate  doorway  which  has  been 
described  as  '  a  perfect  gem  all  of  blue  marble,  richly  ornamented 
and  gilt.' 

Used  as  a  Pig-sty 

All  that  remains  of  this  doorway  is  the  foundation  of  the 
cluster  of  pillars.  There  is  a  story  told  that  about  the  year  1755 
the  then  owner  of  the  Abbey  gambled  the  door  in  a  game  of 
piquet.  He  lost  and  the  winner  had  it  transferred  to  his  own 
residence  where  it  was  erected  as  a  chimney  piece. 

At  one  time  all  the  pillars  and  carved  stonework  of  this 
beautiful  building  were  painted  in  the  most  brilliant  colours,  the 
capitals  in  light  blue  and  the  pillars  in  red.  During  the  occupancy 
of  the  Moore  family  the  building  was  converted  into  a  banquet- 


15 


ing  hall,  l^ut  was  allowed  to  fall  into  disuse  and  it  is  recorded 
that  in  1832  it  was  utilised  as  a  pig-sty. 

The  monks  of  Mellifont  were  pioneers  in  the  manufacture  of 
bricks  in, Ireland  and  it  is  to  their  skill  that  the  east  window  of 
the  Chapter  house  is  credited  ;  it  is  considered  that  this 
window.jeemprises  the  first  piece  of  masonry  in  the  country. 

The  tr^ue  positions  of  the  infirmary  and  the  lectorium  have 
never  been  definitely  established.  Likewise  it  is  not  known  for 
certain  where  the  Abbot's  quarters  or  the  library  were  situated. 
The  former  is  thought  to  have  been  a  large  room  above  the 
Chapter  house,  but  there  are  conflicting  opinions. 

Perhaps  one  of  the  clearest  remains  is  that  of  the  Abbey 
refectory,  which  runs  from  north  to  south  and  measured  some 
24  ft.  by  60  ft.  The  pulpit,  from  which  a  monk  read  aloud  during 
meal-times,  is  quite  distinct  and  beyond  dispute.  The  western 
wall  had  a  turnstile  through  which  food  was  passed  from  the 
adjoining  kitchen. 


General  view  of  Old  Mellifont 


i6 


The  Lavabo,  the  octagonal  building  situated  opposite  the 
refectory,  once  provided  the  washing  place  for  the  monks  when 
they  returned  from  their  day's  labour  in  the  monastery  fields. 
It  was  equipped  with  a  series  of  water  jets  and  basins  and  its 
arched  structure  was  distinctive  as  can  be  seen  from  the 
remaining  portion. 

Its  arches  were  carved  from  sandstone  and  rose  to  a  height  of 
about  30  ft.,  surmounting  foliage  ornamented  capitals.  Between 
the  arches  remain  fluted  pilasters  crowned  by  capitals  from 
which  the  groinings  of  semi-circular  arches  for  the  ceiling  spring. 
The  walls  appear  to  have  been  painted  blue  and  red. 

Many  other  ruins  add  to  the  glory  of  Old  Mellifont  and  several 
low  crypts  are  still  accessible.  The  river  Mattock  flows  by 
within  a  few  yards  of  what  was  once  the  monastery  cemetery — a 
peaceful  and  serene  setting  for  such  a  magnificent  establishment. 

Deserted  by  New  Owner 

More  than  two  centuries  have  passed  since  Old  Mellifont 
became  deserted  and  its  buildings  began  to  crumble  into  ruins. 
In  the  year  1727  the  Moore  family  sold  the  property  and 
moved  to  live  at  Monasterevan,  Co.  Kildare.  The  new  owner,  a 
Mr.  Balfour  of  Townley  Hall,  decided  not  to  take  up  residence 
at  Mellifont  which  thereafter  became  deserted. 

On  a  nearby  hill  overlooking  Old  Mellifont  stand  the  ruins 
of  a  Church  building  closely  associated  with  the  Abbey.  It  was 
a  structure  of  the  fourteenth  or  fifteenth  century  and  it  was 
served  by  the  monks  for  the  benefit  of  the  tenants  and  dependents 
of  the  Abbey.  After  the  suppression  in  1542  it  was  used  as  a 
Protestant  place  of  worship. 

In  front  of  the  building  stood  two  plain  and  very  ancient 
crosses,  one  with  a  heart  encircled  by  a  crown  of  thorns  en- 
graved upon  it ;  the  other  bears  the  fleur-de-lis  on  the  arm.  The 
latter  cross  has  disappeared  but  the  former  lies  on  the  ground 
in  the  portion  of  the  cemetery  on  the  south  side  of  the  roadway. 


^7 

DOWTH  AND  NEWGRANGE 

Where  Royalty  were  Buried 


During  the  period  2,500  to  350  B.C.,  known  as  the  Bronze 
Age,  many  burial  places  called  '  chambered  tumuli  '  for  royal 
personages  were  built  throughout  Ireland  as  well  as  many 
parts  of  Europe.  It  is  at  Dowth  and  Newgrange  that  two  of  the 
best  preserved  mausoleums  are  to  be  found. 

These  burial  places  are  comprised  of  cairns  or  piles  of  stones 
which  form  mounds  without  the  use  of  any  form  of  mortar,  the 
entire  interior  being  built  up  with  large  overlapping  stones. 
An  entrance  passage  led  to  the  place  of  burial  and  tomb  chamber 
where  religious  rites  were  held. 

Despite  the  simplicity  of  their  design,  the  soundness  of  each 
structure  has  been  proved  by  the  fact  that  after  a  lapse  of  many 
centuries  they  are  still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  Ancient 
writers  have  made  reference  to  the  Boyne  Valley  cairns  and  one 
of  the  works  relating  to  Dowth  and  Newgrange  contains  the 
verses  : 


"  The  three  cemeteries,  of  the  idolaters  are 
The  cemetery  of  Taillten  the  select, 
The  ever-clean  cemetery  of  Cruchan 
And  the  cemetery  of  Br  ugh. 


The  host  of  great  Meath  were  buried 
In  the  middle  of  the  lordly  Brugh  ; 
The  great  Ultonians  used  to  bury 
At  Taillten  with  pomp." 


i8 

It  IS  thought  that  these  burial  places  were  also  frequented  to 
mark  ceremonial  and  festive  occasions.  With  the  exception  of 
attacks  by  Danish  plunderers  about  the  year  860  A.D.  there 
seems  to  have  been  little  interference  to  the  burial  places,  the 
entrances  to  which  were  sealed  either  with  boulders  or  heaps 
of  stones. 

DowTH — Where  Royalty  were  Buried 

At  Dowth  the  cairn  is  47  ft.  high,  has  a  diameter  of  280  ft.  and 
a  kerb  of  large  stones.  A  passage  off  it's  main  entrance  leads  to 
two  small  cells  of  bee-hive  shape  construction  and  it  has  a 
number  of  smaller  burial  chambers  in  addition  to  the  central  one. 

One  of  these  bears  a  spiral  pattern  and  fern-leaf.  Another  is 
decorated  with  a  cross  and  circles  while  a  third  has  concentric 
circles.  The  fourth  shows  a  cross  in  double  circles,  also  a  rayed 
figure.  All  of  these  symbols  are  thought  to  have  been  used  as  a 
means  of  expressing  some  religious  idea  and  were  not  carved 
for  the  purpose  of  ornamentation. 

The  two  bee-hive  cells  form  typical  subterranean  chambers 
but  differ  from  the  tumulus  quite  considerably  in  age.  They 
are  thought  to  be  of  Christian  origin  and  it  is  most  likely  that 
they  were,  at  some  stage,  connected  with  an  ancient  nearby 
church  and  may  have  been  used  as  hiding  places. 

An  investigation  into  the  Dowth  burial  chamber  was  under- 
taken by  the  Antiquities  Committee  of  the  Royal  Irish  Academy 
in  1847  under  the  direction  of  a  county  engineer.  In  the  centre 
of  the  cruciform  chamber  a  sarcophagus  was  found,  but  it  had 
been  broken  in  several  pieces.  It  was  restored  to  it's  original 
form  and  while  clearing  away  rubbish  from  the  chamber  a 
number  of  burned  animal  bones  were  found. 

Despite  the  passing  of  the  years  there  has  been  comparatively 
little  alteration  in  this  cairn.  One  of  the  stones  in  the  gallery 
leading  to  the  chamber  did,  some  decades  ago,  threaten  to 
obstruct  the  passage,  whilst  another  stone  had  been  forced  from 


19 


Its  proper' 

of  the  monument 


i-position,  but  both  were  re-installed  by  the  custodians 


•^  Newgrange  Burial  Mound 

The  biirial  cairn  at  Newgrange  is  generally  considered  to  be 
one  of  ^e' most  wonderful  in  Europe.  As  in  the  case  of  the 
Dowth  cairn  it  is  not  possible  to  say  when  it  was  constructed  and 
but  for  an  accidental  discovery,  made  by  roadbuilders  about  the 
year  1700,  it's  entrance  might  have  remained  hidden  for  all 
time. 

This  cairn  was  once  surrounded  byacircle  of  enormous  stones, 
some  of  which  can  still  be  seen,  and  it  is  believed  that  there  was 
once  a  stone  obelisk  surmounting  it  some  forty  feet  above 
ground  level.  The  large  blocks  of  stone  which  lead  towards  the 


Exterior  view  of  Newgrange  burial  mound. 


20 

burial  chamber  are  believed  to  have  been  brought  from  the  banks 
of  the  river  Boyne  as  they  show  signs  of  having  been  worn  by 
water. 

The  chamber  is  cruciform  in  design  with  the  head  aaid  arms 
of  the  cross  forming  three  recesses,  composed  of  blocks  of  stone, 
and  bearing  many  different  symbols.  On  the  floor  of  each  recess 
there  was  found  to  be  a  large  stone  basin  or  sarcophagus,  all 
of  which  are  believed  to  have  been  used  for  cremations. 

While  there  is  no  definite  evidence  to  show  whether  bodies 
were  burnt  or  buried  intact,  experts  point  out  that  cremation 
was  common  at  other  burial  mounds.  Newgrange  was  plundered 
by  Danish  raiders  about  the  year  860  A.D.  and  it  is  considered 
likely  that  the  urns  containing  the  ashes  of  those  cremated  were 
removed  or  destroyed. 

Threatened  with  Destruction 

Thomas  Davis,  in  the  course  of  his  *  Literary  and  Historical 
Essays  '  tells  how  this  place  of  antiquity  was  once  threatened 
with  destruction.    He  writes  : 

"  It  is  a  thing  to  be  proud  of,  as  proof  of  Ireland's  antiquity, 
to  be  guarded  as  an  illustration  of  her  early  creed  and  arts. 
It  is  one  of  a  thousand  muniments  of  our  old  nationahty  which 
a  national  government  would  keep  safe. 

What,  then,  will  be  the  reader's  surprise  and  anger  to  hear 
that  some  people  having  legal  power  or  corrupt  influence  in 
Meath  are  getting,  or  have  got,  a  presentment  for  a  road  to  run 
right  through  the  Temple  of  Grange  ! 

We  do  not  know  their  names,  nor,  if  the  design  be  at  once 
given  up,  as  in  deference  to  public  opinion  it  must  finally  be, 
shall  we  take  the  trouble  to  find  them  out.  Butif  they  persist  in 
this  brutal  outrage  against  so  precious  a  landmark  of  Irish  history 
and  civilisation,  then  we  frankly  say  if  the  law  will  not  reach 
them  public  opinion  shall,  and  they  shall  bitterly  repent  the 
desecration. 


21 


[Jnterjor  view ,  of  N'ewgrarge  Burial  Chairiber 


22 


These  men  who  design,  and  those  who  consent  to  act,  may 
be  Liberals  or  Tories,  Protestants  or  CathoHcs,  but  beyond  a 
doubt  they  are  tasteless  blockheads — poor  devils  without  rev- 
erence or  education — men,  who,  as  Wordsworth  says  : 
"  Would  peep  and  botanise 
Upon  their  mothers'  graves  ". 


Entrance  stone  to  Newgrange  Burial  Chamber 


23 

MONASTERBOICE 

Home  of  Ireland's  Crosses 

The  story  of  Monasterboice  dates  back  to  the  sixth  century, 
but  If^e  so  many  other  settlements  of  that  period,  the  facts 
available  regarding  its  construction  and  inhabitants  are  few.  It 
is  known,  however,  that  the  monastery  was  founded  by  an 
ecclesiastic  named  Buite,  a  descendant  of  one  of  the  chieftains  of 
Munster. 

He  lived  until  the  year  520  A.D.  so  it  is  considered  more  than 
likely  that  he,  at  some  stage  of  his  youth,  came  into  direct 
contact  with  St.  Patrick.  He  travelled  extensively  through 
Italy,  Germany  and  England  before  beginning  work  on  the 
Monasterboice  monastery  on  his  return  to  Ireland. 

In  the  course  of  his  travels  throughout  Ireland  Buite  is  said  to 
have  cured  many  people,  sometimes  in  the  strangest  ways.  Once, 
a  blind  man,  carrying  a  cripple,  pleaded  with  Buite  to  cure  them 
of  their  infirmities  and  were  told  to  anoint  themselves  in  the 
water  through  which  his  carriage  had  passed.  They  did  so  and 
were  cured. 

On  another  occasion  while  hastening  to  save  the  life  of  a 
captive  of  the  High  King  he  found  the  river  Boyne,  which  he 
had  to  cross,  swollen  in  flood.  But  when  he  struck  the  water 
with  his  staff  a  passage  was  cleared  for  him  and,  like  another 
Moses,  he  crossed  safely. 

To  his  dismay  he  found  the  prisoner  had  already  been 
beheaded.  But,  Buite  proceeded  to  replace  the  head  and  restore 
the  man  to  life.  Legend  has  it  that  thereafter  the  restored 
man  spent  the  remainder  of  his  days  tending  the  monastic 
garden  at  Monasterboice. 

Many  other  stories  are  told  of  his  works  which  resulted  in 
cures  for  people  and  animals.    But,  perhaps  the  strangest  of  all 


24 

was  the  manner  in  which  Buite  is  reputed  to  have  died.  Walking 
one  day  in  the  monastery  cemetery  he  was  filled  with  a  desire 
for  death  and  he  is  said  to  have  ascended  a  ladder  provided 
by  angels. 

The  other  monks  watched  in  amazement,  but  Buite  returned 
with  a  disc  of  glass  in  front  of  his  face  which  enabled  him  to  see 
without  being  seen.  He  remained  with  his  monks  for  several 
more  months  and  before  he  died  foretold  of  the  coming  of  St. 
Colmcille,  who  it  is  thought,  was  born  on  the  same  day. 

Founded  in  the  Sixth  Century 

Although  the  monastic  building  had  been  undertaken  in  the 
sixth  century  many  decades  passed  before  it  was  completed. 
The  ruins  visible  today  include  a  round  tower,  a  sundial,  three 
sculptured  High  Crosses  and  two  Churches.  It  is  possible  that 
there  were  other  buildings  but  there  is  no  evidence  to  support 
such  a  theory. 

Although  Buite  was  dead,  other  monks  carried  on  the  work  he 
had  undertaken.  The  monastery,  however,  seems  to  have  had 
little  significance  as  a  place  of  student  learning.  Life  was  not 
easy  for  the  monks  for,  apart  from  their  monastic  rule  of  life, 
they  were  subjected  to  constant  attacks  by  Danes  and  Norsemen 
which  resulted  in  the  community  livestock  and  other  valuables 
being    stolen. 

In  the  mid-ninth  century,  Danes  established  a  coastal 
settlement  at  Annagassen,  some  eight  miles  from  the  monastery. 
At  first  this  seemed  to  present  another  threat  to  Monasterboice, 
but  there  was  nothing  to  fear  for  the  Danes  were  Christians  and 
spared  Monasterboice,  although  they  did  plunder  other 
monastic  establishments. 

An  entry  in  the  Irish  Annals  tells  a  strange,  but  not  surprising 
story.  It  says  that  in  969  A.D.  "  Domhnali,  the  High  King  of 
Ireland,  plundered  Monasterboice,  against  the  Foreigners,  and 
burned  three  hundred  of  them  in  one  house."  This  seems  to  be 


25 


explained  by  the  fact  that  most  of  the  monks  at  that  time  were 
Danes. 

It  was  quite  a  common  event  for  Irishmen  to  pkmder 
monasteries  occupied  by  Foreigners  in  retahation  for  similar 
attacks  by  their  opponents.  A  period  of  more  than  thirty  years 
elapse.jt-before  the  monastery  was  again  occupied  about  the 
year  ip©^  A.D. 

During  the  period  between  the  gth  and  nth  centuries  Ireland 
suffered  constant  attacks  by  Scandinavian  plunderers  who  raided 
not  only  farm  dwellings  but  also  monasteries,  stealing  anything 
of  value  which  they  could  find  in  addition  to  terrorising  the 
inhabitants. 


A  General  View  of  Monasterboice 


26 


To  overcome  this  menace  the  monks  in  various  parts  of  the 
country  decided  to  protect  themselves  by  building  towers  of 
refuge  where  they  could  live  during  the  barbaric  raids.  These 
structures  served  many  other  purposes  and  were  especially 
useful  as  watch  towers  by  providing  a  clear  view  of  the  surround- 
ing countryside. 

The  monks  at  Monasterboice  had  their  own  watch  tower 
which,  like  many  others  throughout  the  countryside,  was 
round  in  design.  By  using  this  pattern  they  had  many  advantages 
and  did  not  require  specially  cut  corner  stones,  a  factor  which 
meant  a  great  saving  in  expenditure. 

In  addition,  the  raiders  could  not  demolish  the  towers  as 
they  were  unable  to  remove  stones  from  the  base.  The  entrance 
door  to  the  tower  several  feet  above  ground  level  and  entrance 
was  gained  by  the  use  of  a  ladder  which  was  drawn  up  into  the 
tower. 


One  Thousand  Years  Old 

So,  it  became  a  common  event  for  the  monks  to  gather 
together  their  valuables  and  retire  into  the  tower  when  bands  of 
raiders  were  sighted.  The  period  of  isolation  in  the  tower 
varied,  depending  on  whether  the  raiders  decided  to  remain 
hours  or  days.  Then,  when  danger  had  passed,  the  monks 
returned  to  their  normal  way  of  life. 

Today,  a  steel  ladder  provides  access  to  the  Monasterboice 
tower  which  is  divided  into  five  stories,  separated  by  wooden 
floors.  In  1 871,  the  Royal  Historical  and  Archaeological 
Association  renewed  these  floors  and  the  ladders  connecting 
them.  A  sliding  trapdoor  provides  access  to  the  roof  which  has 
been  reconstructed  in  concrete. 

It  was  at  this  level  that  the  monks  are  thought  to  have  sounded 
their  hand  bells.  The  ringing  windows,  common  to  other 
towers  throughout  the  country,  comprised  of  long  upright  slots 


Mujredach's  Cross,  West  face 


28 

in  the  tower  wall.  But  with  the  loss  of  the  tower's  conical  roof 
these  windows  were  demolished. 

Each  floor  of  the  tower  has  one  window  of  its  own  but  all 
face  in  different  directions,  so  it  was  possible  to  obr.erve  the 
countryside  and  at  the  same  time  have  only  one,  or  two,  windows 
at  the  most,  visible  from  outside  the  tower.  Thus  the  defenders 
could  throw  missiles  from  different  heights  during  a  seige. 

The  main  cause  for  anxiety  was  the  danger  of  fire.  In  the 
event  of  the  tower's  timber  flooring  being  set  alight  by  fire- 
tipped  arrows,  the  strong  draught  caused  by  the  tower's  general 
design,  would  give  the  occupants  little  chance  of  surviving. 

Yet,  despite  such  threats,  the  Monasterboice  tower  has 
remained  standing  for  almost  one  thousand  years — a  lasting 
tribute  to  it's  builders.  With  the  exception  of  the  tower  on 
Scattery  Island,  it  stands  supreme,  although,  like  the  tower  of 
Pisa,  it  is  slightly  off  the  perpendicular. 


North  and  South  Churches 

The  Monasterboice  Churchyard  contains  the  remains  of 
two  oratories,  known  as  the  North  Church  and  the  South 
Church.  The  former,  which  measures  39  ft.  8  ins.  by  18  ft. 
9  ins.,  dates  from  the  late  thirteenth  or  early  fourteenth  cen- 
tury. 

This  date  would  seem  to  indicate  that  it  had  no  real  con- 
nection with  the  Monastic  settlement,  but  was  probably  a 
Parish  Church  built  on  the  site  after  the  Monastery  had  ceased 
to  function.  It  has  two  doorways  and  four  windows  which 
were  fitted  with  wooden  shutters  for  use  in  bad  weather. 

There  are  signs  which  indicate  that  this  Church  was  fitted 
with  a  gallery  at  the  west  end  ;  an  offset  is  to  be  seen  in  the 
west  wall  above  the  doorway.  Inside  the  Church  a  granite 
stone,  believed  to  have  been  the  shaft  of  the  Baptismal  Font, 
still  remains. 


29 

Although  the  floor  was  originally  level  throughout  there  is 
now  a  depression  of  2  ft.  towards  the  western  end.  This,  it  is 
thought,  was  caused  by  the  large  number  of  interments  in  the 
surrounding  cemetery. 

The  South  Church  is  of  earlier  construction  than  the  North 
Church  and  measures  32  ft.  by  13  ft.  6  ins.,  and  was  entered  by 
a  circular  arched  doorway,  comparatively  low  due  to  the  fact 
that  this  Church  had  a  remarkably  low  roof.  The  lack  of  space 
to  allow  a  detailed  examination  by  means  of  excavation  makes 
it  impossible  to  form  a  clear  picture  of  this  oratory. 

One  of  its  unusual  features  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  has  two  side 
entrances.  It  seems  to  have  undergone  some  alterations  by 
the  building  of  a  new  gable  wall  at  the  west  end  and  it  appears 
to  have  been  supported  in  places  by  the  addition  of  butresses. 
The  passage  of  time  has  reduced  the  eastern  wall  to  ruins  and 
no  attempt  appears  to  have  been  made  to  restore  it. 

In  the  centre  of  this  oratory  can  be  seen  a  curious  type  of 
bowl  which  was  common  to  many  Churches  of  the  period  and 
were  known  as  '  bullauns  '.  It  is  thought  to  have  served  many 
purposes  including  that  of  a  holy  water  font.  As  in  the  case 
of  the  North  Church  the  floor  level  of  this  oratory  has  subsided 
by  a  depth  of  about  2  feet. 


The  West  Cross 

Of  the  many  high  crosses  to  be  found  throughout  Ireland 
the  two  at  Monasterboice  are  of  great  interest  and  have  won  the 
praise  of  antiquaries  of  many  lands.  Their  panels  are  decorated 
with  Biblical  and  other  religious  scenes  that  have  withstood  the 
weather  conditions  of  the  centuries. 

The  West,  or  Tall  Cross  shows  the  most  signs  of  wear.  It  is 
the  taller  of  the  two  crosses  and  stands  close  by  the  round 
tower.  The  shaft  is  just  20  ft.  high  and  comprises  three  separate 
stones ;  a  bottom  shaft  of  1 1  ft.  with  a  top  stone  measuring 


0k 


Muiredach's  Cross,  East  face. 


31 

2  ft.  3  ins.  which  is  surmounted  by  the  circle. 

The  west  face,  closest  to  the  tower,  looking  from  the  base 
upwards  depicts  the  Resurrection,  Baptism  and  Crucifixion  of 
Christ.  In  the  centre  of  the  wheel  the  figure  is  shown  tied  to 
the  Cross  with  ropes,  while  the  left  arm  shows  Christ  being 
blindfolded  and  mocked.  The  right  arm  shows  Judas'  kiss  of 
betrayal.    ■/ 

On  the  east  face  David  is  shown  killing  the  lion.  Above  this 
Abraham  is  seen  sacrificing  Isaac.  Next  comes  the  panel 
depicting  the  worship  of  the  Golden  Calf  and  then  David  with 
the  head  of  Goliath  above  which  Goliath  is  again  depicted,  this 
time  preparing  to  fight  the  armies  of  Israel.  The  centre  panel 
shows  the   Ascension. 


Muiredach's  Cross 

Smaller  in  size,  but  much  clearer  and  easier  to  understand 
is  the  14  ft.  7  ins.  high  Muiredach's  Cross.  It  is  so  called  because 
of  the  inscription  at  the  base  which  means  "  A  prayer  for 
Muiredach  by  whom  this  cross  was  made."  It  is  different  from 
the  West  cross  in  several  respects  and  its  shaft  consists  of  only 
one  stone. 

There  are  conflicting  opinions  as  to  the  story  told  by  the 
scenes  depicted  on  this  cross.  The  east  side  is  thought  to  be 
significant  and  forms  the  first  part  of  a  story  which  is  continued 
on  the  west  face.  Briefly,  the  panels  represent  the  worldly 
victory  by  the  Danes  over  the  Irish. 

This  story  continues  on  the  reverse  or  west  side  of  the  cross, 
and  is  thought  to  signify  the  triumph  of  Christianity  over 
paganism.  The  episodes  are  believed  to  represent  the  conversion 
of  Danes  or  Norsemen  at  the  Annagassan  settlement  some  miles 
from  the  monastery. 

In  the  bottom  panel  stands  an  Abbot  with  tonsured  head  and 
holding  a  staff,  being  attacked  by  two  bearded  Danish  soldiers 


32 

carrying  swords.  This  was  probably  the  first  meeting  of  the 
Abbot  and  the  Danes.  Above  it  the  Danes  have  left  aside  their 
swords  and  are  dressed  as  monks,  holding  books,  as  though 
being  instructed  by  the  Abbot. 

The  next  scene  shows  the  centre  figure  giving  a  scroll  to  the 
figure  on  the  left  and  a  book  bearing  the  word  Soscel,  Gospel, 
to  the  other  figure  as  if  sending  them  on  a  journey.  The  story, 
significantly  enough,  leads  to  the  final  subject — the  Crucifixion. 


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