-:^^
McGOWAN
BOYNE VALEY
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
ANTIQUITIES
OYAL TARA
OLD MELLIFONT
DOWTH
NEWGRANGE
MONASTERBOICE
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2008 with funding from
IVIicrosoft Corporation
http://www.archive.org/details/boynevalleyOOmcgo
THE BOYNE VALLEY
BY
^' Kenneth MacGowan
PUBLISHED BY
Kamac Publications
3 St. John's Terrace, Mount Brown, Dublin 8.
n
INTRODUCTION
' tllVr^
The Boyne Valley, covering an area adjoining the banks of
the river Mattock is, perhaps, the greatest source of historic
interest in Ireland. Here, the relics of both pagan and Christian
Ireland are closely linked and stretch over a period of some
4,000 yeazs.
The dark days of paganism were marked by a culture and
civilisation which, if not more advanced, was at least comparable
with that of other countries. Significant, indeed, was the manner
in which the era of Christianity began to convert the Irish people
to new beliefs.
In the heart of paganism, within a few miles of Tara, St.
Patrick began his work. This work, however, brought about the
decay of Tara ; its great festivities and cultural activities gradually
came to an end. Midway through the first millennium of Christianity,
monasteries were established and saintly monks worked unceasingly
to spread the Faith.
The growth of Christianity was marked by troubled times when
the monks were forced to go into hiding. For this purpose, as well
as other uses, round towers were built to provide protection. Also
prominent amongst the relics of early Christianity are several
High Crosses of Celtic design, embellished with Biblical scenes.
The Boyne Valley, rich in antiquities and monastic ruins
encompasses the Hill of Tara, Dowth, Newgrange, Monasterboice
and Old Mellifont. The following pages contain a short history of
of these places, compiled from various reliable sources.
221 ,'J781
5
CONTENTS
Royal Tara Page
Once the seat of Ireland's
Kings. A link with pagan
times . . . . . . . ♦ • • • • • • 7
Old Mellifont
-•'A i2th century Monastic
establishment of the Cis-
tercian Monks
DOWTH AND NeWGRANGE
Ancient burial places
where royalty were buried . . . . . . • • i?
Monasterboice
A 6th century foundation
home of Ireland's greatest
High Crosses . . . . . • • • • • • • 23
K/T\
An aerial view of the Hill of Tara
ROYAL TARA
Where 142 Kings Reigned
FEW'royal residences can boast a history like that which
made'Tara famous throughout Europe and caused it to
be recognised as the cukural and pohtical capital of
Ireland. Dating back to about 4,000 B.C. it is believed to have
been the centre from which one hundred and forty-two Kings
reigned.
It was at Tara that the Lia Fail, the Stone of Destiny and
talisman of the Gael, was enshrined. So too it was from Royal
Tara that the funeral processions of the dead Kings began their
journey to the burial grounds on the banks of the river Boyne.
Tara Hill, situated some five hundred feet above the rich
pasture lands of Co. Meath, commands an overall view of the
surrounding countryside and it is said that at least eleven
important landmarks were visible from its summit.
Historians of various ages told many stories of the festivals
and other activities for which Tara was famous throughout
Europe. But, with the passing of the centuries most of these
legends, which were not committed to paper, have been lost
for all time.
It is known, however, that every third year an assembly was
held there at which the laws and customs of the land were dis-
cussed and instituted. Chieftains from all parts of the country
attended and all resolutions passed were duly recorded in the
Roll of Kings before becoming law.
Great Harvest Festival
But it was for the great harvest Feis or Festival, which
marked the Feast of Samhain, that Tara became renowned.
Nowhere in the western world at that period was there to be
found anything to equal the gaiety and splendour of royal Tara.
The six-day festival was the event of the year and the days
preceeding its opening saw the five chariot roads, which led to
Tara from all parts of Ireland, thronged with people coming to
participate. Even before Imperial Rome, Athens or Troy
became recognised as cultural cities, Ireland had its own
civilisation.
Both rich and poor were welcomed to the royal Palace.
Its twelve magnificent portals were thrown open to admit
princes, poets, athletes, bards and druids with their flowing
beards. Jugglers and trick-o-the-loop performers were also
present to provide amusement with their peculiar talents.
Music played an important part in the festivities. It was
from the name Teamhair — house of music — that Tara took its
name. So it is not surprising that musicians from all parts of
the country were to be found in attendance at the Feis.
At sunset each evening the guests adjourned to the huge
banquet hall — one of the most magnificent buildings in Europe.
Capable of holding one thousand people at a sitting, it was 700
feet long and 90 feet wide. The most elaborate dishes were
prepared and roast goose, mallard, pheasant, venison, oxen and
boars were served.
Hundreds of servants tended the needs of those present, both
in the banquet hall and the palace which was sub-divided to
cater for the guests and was allocated for the use of those of a
particular degree of profession, trade or rank.
The coming of Christianity to Europe began a new era for
the western world. It was only a matter of time until mission-
aries would come to convert Ireland to Christianity. But four
centuries passed before this was to come about.
During this period, an important part in the development of
Tara was played by Cormac Mac Art who reigned in the third
century A.D. In the course of his forty years Kingship he es-
tablished schools of literature, metal- work and military training.
However, his work came to an abrupt end when he received
face wounds during a skirmish. Lest he should become the
victim of a spell, which forbade anyone physically blemished
from ruling, he retired and gave control to his son Cairbre.
Decline and Fall
Cormarc'died at the age of ninety the victim of a druid's evil
wish. He was choked by a salmon bone because he had reasoned
that there was a God and was bold enough to proclaim that soon
Ireland would come to know of His existence.
Little more than a century passed before his claim became
a reality. For, in 433, St. Patrick's historic meeting with the
High King Laoghaire took place. The Paschal fire spread
quickly throughout the land and the glory of Tara began to
diminish.
Christianity spread and with the death of Diarmuid Mac
Cearbhall in the mid-sixth century the Tara Feis came to an
end. Gradually the Hill became abandoned and the buildings
began to crumble into ruin.
The title, King of Tara, would no longer be given to kings
throughout the land and a monk's prophecy " The city of Tara
shall first be inhabited many hundred years, and thereafter
remain without a dweller " camie true.
There is a legend that Tara became deserted because it's
King had been cursed for slaying an outlaw who had been
refused sanctuary. It's doom is said to have been foretold by
St. Ruadhan, a sixth century Abbot and Bishop v/hose anger
was roused because the High King, Diarmuid, had violated the
law of sanctuary and put to death a robber who claimed Church
protection.
The Stone of Destiny
The Lia Fail, Stone of Destiny, though somewhat insignificant
in appearance, is of historic importance. It is thought to have
lO
been erected at Tara about one thousand years ago but there is
Httle evidence to confirm the accuracy of this behef.
According to tradition this stone was the original Jacob's
Pillar which was brought to Ireland by the Milesians. Early
bardic accounts claim that at the inauguration of a true High
King the Lia Fail gave three mighty roars. It is perhaps,
significant, that a true Irish King was always of Milesian stock.
Today, little evidence remains to bear witness to the various
buildings which played such an important part in the history
of Tara. A triple earth mound marks the Fort of Synods, once
a place of great importance where St. Patrick, St. Adamnan
and St. Ruadhan presided some fifteen centuries ago.
So too, the Fort of Kings, Grainne's Fort and King
Laoghaire's Fort, are little more than names. But, the Hill of
Tara has remained famous and the decades that lie ahead will
continue to add to its glory as one of the greatest places of
historic interest in Ireland.
II
OLD MELLIFONT
•'" Where Monks once Trod
Duriogrthe eleventh century Ireland was in a state of chaos
and a dark age existed in which barbarism reigned. The native
Monasticism was suppressed to such an extent that it never
again rose to its original splendour. But throughout this period
of suppression the Irish people held fast to their insular
traditions, for they realised that the Monastic way was the
right way.
In the early twelfth century a reform of the barbaric customs
started and was well under way by the middle of the century.
Malachy, Archbishop of Armagh, was the prelate who crowned
the work. As well as being a man of ideas and ambitions, he
was a close friend of the great St. Bernard, Abbot of the
Cistercian Monastery at Citeaux, France.
On a piece of land on the banks of the river Mattock a few
miles from Monasterboice donated to him by King Donnchad
O'Cearbhaill, he set about establishing the first Cistercian
house in Ireland, in the year 1142. The small community
consisted of four Irish and nine French monks who had been
sent by St. Bernard at Malachy's request.
The foundation was called Mellifont, meaning Honey
Fountain. The Abbey, which took fifteen years to build, was
magnificent in design and nothing of its beauty had previously
been seen in Ireland. It's Solemn Consecration in 11 57 was an
event of national importance and was attended by the Papal
Legate, High King, Murtough O'Loughlin, Bishops and
Noblemen.
This great event met with wide support and showed clearly
the Irish people's love for the Monastic system. Many gifts of
Z2
The Lavabo at old jMellifont
13
gold, incliiding a chalice for the High Altar, and costly furnish-
ings for the nine Altars were donated, together with a portion of
land and some cattle.
^'"
Survived Many Attacks
^■.
Along' with many other religious houses, Mellifont was
suppressed by Henry VHI in the year 1539. The Abbot and
community of about one hundred and fifty were driven from
the monastery which was leased to Sir Gerald Moore, the Earl
of Drogheda, who took up residence there.
It provided an excellent residence and place of defence
against attacks from Irish rebels. It survived many such
onslaughts, especially during the Rebellion of 164 1; the seige of
nearby Drogheda by Cromwellian troops in 1649 and again
during the march of the Williamite army towards the Boyne in
1690.
Today, nothing but ruins remain to testify to the sad story of
Mellifont's destruction by those who fought against Catholicism.
As was the usual practice, the monks were their own architects
and built to the uniform plan, common to all Cistercian Abbeys,
so it is comparatively easy to visualise the appearance of the
original buildings.
The ancient Gateway, which comprised the main entrance to
the Abbey enclosure, was a massive tower, square and stern,
with an elevated turret at its north east angle. On either side was
a range of buildings which included the hospice and infirmary,
also the house for travellers and stables for their horses.
Within the enclosure lies a rather confused mass of ruins,
arches, walls and columns. In general outline they form a
quadrangle. The Church, which was cruciform, occupied the
north side of the quadrangle and is now unrecognisable except
for the bases of the columns.
It consisted of a nave with aisles, 120 ft. by 54 ft., a chancel
and transepts. At the intersection of the transept and nave was
14
the lantefn, above which rose the bell tower. The entire nave
was paved with beautiful red and blue tiles made by the monks.
Some were inscribed with the words ' Ave Maria ' while others
were decorated with the fleur-de-lis emblem.
In the chancel, which measured some 42 ft. by 26 ft., is the
remains of the basis of the High Altar. On the Epistle side are
the piscina and the remains of the sedilia, or seats, used by the
ministers of the Mass. On the Gospel side is an arched recess
with ornamental moulding which is thought to form the tomb
of King Donnchad O Cearbhaill.
The Church, although not very large, was a magnificent
piece of architecture and formed a noble tribute to its builders.
It underwent some alterations between the 13th and 15th
centuries according to the advancing changes in the Gothic
style. The destruction which reduced it to ruins remains an
unwritten chapter in the history of Mellifont.
The Chapter house which adjoined the Church measured
some 30 ft. by 19ft. and was considered to be one of the finest
examples of Norman or early English style architecture in the
country. It was probably the last building to be added to
Mellifont and was noted for its ornate doorway which has been
described as ' a perfect gem all of blue marble, richly ornamented
and gilt.'
Used as a Pig-sty
All that remains of this doorway is the foundation of the
cluster of pillars. There is a story told that about the year 1755
the then owner of the Abbey gambled the door in a game of
piquet. He lost and the winner had it transferred to his own
residence where it was erected as a chimney piece.
At one time all the pillars and carved stonework of this
beautiful building were painted in the most brilliant colours, the
capitals in light blue and the pillars in red. During the occupancy
of the Moore family the building was converted into a banquet-
15
ing hall, l^ut was allowed to fall into disuse and it is recorded
that in 1832 it was utilised as a pig-sty.
The monks of Mellifont were pioneers in the manufacture of
bricks in, Ireland and it is to their skill that the east window of
the Chapter house is credited ; it is considered that this
window.jeemprises the first piece of masonry in the country.
The tr^ue positions of the infirmary and the lectorium have
never been definitely established. Likewise it is not known for
certain where the Abbot's quarters or the library were situated.
The former is thought to have been a large room above the
Chapter house, but there are conflicting opinions.
Perhaps one of the clearest remains is that of the Abbey
refectory, which runs from north to south and measured some
24 ft. by 60 ft. The pulpit, from which a monk read aloud during
meal-times, is quite distinct and beyond dispute. The western
wall had a turnstile through which food was passed from the
adjoining kitchen.
General view of Old Mellifont
i6
The Lavabo, the octagonal building situated opposite the
refectory, once provided the washing place for the monks when
they returned from their day's labour in the monastery fields.
It was equipped with a series of water jets and basins and its
arched structure was distinctive as can be seen from the
remaining portion.
Its arches were carved from sandstone and rose to a height of
about 30 ft., surmounting foliage ornamented capitals. Between
the arches remain fluted pilasters crowned by capitals from
which the groinings of semi-circular arches for the ceiling spring.
The walls appear to have been painted blue and red.
Many other ruins add to the glory of Old Mellifont and several
low crypts are still accessible. The river Mattock flows by
within a few yards of what was once the monastery cemetery — a
peaceful and serene setting for such a magnificent establishment.
Deserted by New Owner
More than two centuries have passed since Old Mellifont
became deserted and its buildings began to crumble into ruins.
In the year 1727 the Moore family sold the property and
moved to live at Monasterevan, Co. Kildare. The new owner, a
Mr. Balfour of Townley Hall, decided not to take up residence
at Mellifont which thereafter became deserted.
On a nearby hill overlooking Old Mellifont stand the ruins
of a Church building closely associated with the Abbey. It was
a structure of the fourteenth or fifteenth century and it was
served by the monks for the benefit of the tenants and dependents
of the Abbey. After the suppression in 1542 it was used as a
Protestant place of worship.
In front of the building stood two plain and very ancient
crosses, one with a heart encircled by a crown of thorns en-
graved upon it ; the other bears the fleur-de-lis on the arm. The
latter cross has disappeared but the former lies on the ground
in the portion of the cemetery on the south side of the roadway.
^7
DOWTH AND NEWGRANGE
Where Royalty were Buried
During the period 2,500 to 350 B.C., known as the Bronze
Age, many burial places called ' chambered tumuli ' for royal
personages were built throughout Ireland as well as many
parts of Europe. It is at Dowth and Newgrange that two of the
best preserved mausoleums are to be found.
These burial places are comprised of cairns or piles of stones
which form mounds without the use of any form of mortar, the
entire interior being built up with large overlapping stones.
An entrance passage led to the place of burial and tomb chamber
where religious rites were held.
Despite the simplicity of their design, the soundness of each
structure has been proved by the fact that after a lapse of many
centuries they are still in a good state of preservation. Ancient
writers have made reference to the Boyne Valley cairns and one
of the works relating to Dowth and Newgrange contains the
verses :
" The three cemeteries, of the idolaters are
The cemetery of Taillten the select,
The ever-clean cemetery of Cruchan
And the cemetery of Br ugh.
The host of great Meath were buried
In the middle of the lordly Brugh ;
The great Ultonians used to bury
At Taillten with pomp."
i8
It IS thought that these burial places were also frequented to
mark ceremonial and festive occasions. With the exception of
attacks by Danish plunderers about the year 860 A.D. there
seems to have been little interference to the burial places, the
entrances to which were sealed either with boulders or heaps
of stones.
DowTH — Where Royalty were Buried
At Dowth the cairn is 47 ft. high, has a diameter of 280 ft. and
a kerb of large stones. A passage off it's main entrance leads to
two small cells of bee-hive shape construction and it has a
number of smaller burial chambers in addition to the central one.
One of these bears a spiral pattern and fern-leaf. Another is
decorated with a cross and circles while a third has concentric
circles. The fourth shows a cross in double circles, also a rayed
figure. All of these symbols are thought to have been used as a
means of expressing some religious idea and were not carved
for the purpose of ornamentation.
The two bee-hive cells form typical subterranean chambers
but differ from the tumulus quite considerably in age. They
are thought to be of Christian origin and it is most likely that
they were, at some stage, connected with an ancient nearby
church and may have been used as hiding places.
An investigation into the Dowth burial chamber was under-
taken by the Antiquities Committee of the Royal Irish Academy
in 1847 under the direction of a county engineer. In the centre
of the cruciform chamber a sarcophagus was found, but it had
been broken in several pieces. It was restored to it's original
form and while clearing away rubbish from the chamber a
number of burned animal bones were found.
Despite the passing of the years there has been comparatively
little alteration in this cairn. One of the stones in the gallery
leading to the chamber did, some decades ago, threaten to
obstruct the passage, whilst another stone had been forced from
19
Its proper'
of the monument
i-position, but both were re-installed by the custodians
•^ Newgrange Burial Mound
The biirial cairn at Newgrange is generally considered to be
one of ^e' most wonderful in Europe. As in the case of the
Dowth cairn it is not possible to say when it was constructed and
but for an accidental discovery, made by roadbuilders about the
year 1700, it's entrance might have remained hidden for all
time.
This cairn was once surrounded byacircle of enormous stones,
some of which can still be seen, and it is believed that there was
once a stone obelisk surmounting it some forty feet above
ground level. The large blocks of stone which lead towards the
Exterior view of Newgrange burial mound.
20
burial chamber are believed to have been brought from the banks
of the river Boyne as they show signs of having been worn by
water.
The chamber is cruciform in design with the head aaid arms
of the cross forming three recesses, composed of blocks of stone,
and bearing many different symbols. On the floor of each recess
there was found to be a large stone basin or sarcophagus, all
of which are believed to have been used for cremations.
While there is no definite evidence to show whether bodies
were burnt or buried intact, experts point out that cremation
was common at other burial mounds. Newgrange was plundered
by Danish raiders about the year 860 A.D. and it is considered
likely that the urns containing the ashes of those cremated were
removed or destroyed.
Threatened with Destruction
Thomas Davis, in the course of his * Literary and Historical
Essays ' tells how this place of antiquity was once threatened
with destruction. He writes :
" It is a thing to be proud of, as proof of Ireland's antiquity,
to be guarded as an illustration of her early creed and arts.
It is one of a thousand muniments of our old nationahty which
a national government would keep safe.
What, then, will be the reader's surprise and anger to hear
that some people having legal power or corrupt influence in
Meath are getting, or have got, a presentment for a road to run
right through the Temple of Grange !
We do not know their names, nor, if the design be at once
given up, as in deference to public opinion it must finally be,
shall we take the trouble to find them out. Butif they persist in
this brutal outrage against so precious a landmark of Irish history
and civilisation, then we frankly say if the law will not reach
them public opinion shall, and they shall bitterly repent the
desecration.
21
[Jnterjor view , of N'ewgrarge Burial Chairiber
22
These men who design, and those who consent to act, may
be Liberals or Tories, Protestants or CathoHcs, but beyond a
doubt they are tasteless blockheads — poor devils without rev-
erence or education — men, who, as Wordsworth says :
" Would peep and botanise
Upon their mothers' graves ".
Entrance stone to Newgrange Burial Chamber
23
MONASTERBOICE
Home of Ireland's Crosses
The story of Monasterboice dates back to the sixth century,
but If^e so many other settlements of that period, the facts
available regarding its construction and inhabitants are few. It
is known, however, that the monastery was founded by an
ecclesiastic named Buite, a descendant of one of the chieftains of
Munster.
He lived until the year 520 A.D. so it is considered more than
likely that he, at some stage of his youth, came into direct
contact with St. Patrick. He travelled extensively through
Italy, Germany and England before beginning work on the
Monasterboice monastery on his return to Ireland.
In the course of his travels throughout Ireland Buite is said to
have cured many people, sometimes in the strangest ways. Once,
a blind man, carrying a cripple, pleaded with Buite to cure them
of their infirmities and were told to anoint themselves in the
water through which his carriage had passed. They did so and
were cured.
On another occasion while hastening to save the life of a
captive of the High King he found the river Boyne, which he
had to cross, swollen in flood. But when he struck the water
with his staff a passage was cleared for him and, like another
Moses, he crossed safely.
To his dismay he found the prisoner had already been
beheaded. But, Buite proceeded to replace the head and restore
the man to life. Legend has it that thereafter the restored
man spent the remainder of his days tending the monastic
garden at Monasterboice.
Many other stories are told of his works which resulted in
cures for people and animals. But, perhaps the strangest of all
24
was the manner in which Buite is reputed to have died. Walking
one day in the monastery cemetery he was filled with a desire
for death and he is said to have ascended a ladder provided
by angels.
The other monks watched in amazement, but Buite returned
with a disc of glass in front of his face which enabled him to see
without being seen. He remained with his monks for several
more months and before he died foretold of the coming of St.
Colmcille, who it is thought, was born on the same day.
Founded in the Sixth Century
Although the monastic building had been undertaken in the
sixth century many decades passed before it was completed.
The ruins visible today include a round tower, a sundial, three
sculptured High Crosses and two Churches. It is possible that
there were other buildings but there is no evidence to support
such a theory.
Although Buite was dead, other monks carried on the work he
had undertaken. The monastery, however, seems to have had
little significance as a place of student learning. Life was not
easy for the monks for, apart from their monastic rule of life,
they were subjected to constant attacks by Danes and Norsemen
which resulted in the community livestock and other valuables
being stolen.
In the mid-ninth century, Danes established a coastal
settlement at Annagassen, some eight miles from the monastery.
At first this seemed to present another threat to Monasterboice,
but there was nothing to fear for the Danes were Christians and
spared Monasterboice, although they did plunder other
monastic establishments.
An entry in the Irish Annals tells a strange, but not surprising
story. It says that in 969 A.D. " Domhnali, the High King of
Ireland, plundered Monasterboice, against the Foreigners, and
burned three hundred of them in one house." This seems to be
25
explained by the fact that most of the monks at that time were
Danes.
It was quite a common event for Irishmen to pkmder
monasteries occupied by Foreigners in retahation for similar
attacks by their opponents. A period of more than thirty years
elapse.jt-before the monastery was again occupied about the
year ip©^ A.D.
During the period between the gth and nth centuries Ireland
suffered constant attacks by Scandinavian plunderers who raided
not only farm dwellings but also monasteries, stealing anything
of value which they could find in addition to terrorising the
inhabitants.
A General View of Monasterboice
26
To overcome this menace the monks in various parts of the
country decided to protect themselves by building towers of
refuge where they could live during the barbaric raids. These
structures served many other purposes and were especially
useful as watch towers by providing a clear view of the surround-
ing countryside.
The monks at Monasterboice had their own watch tower
which, like many others throughout the countryside, was
round in design. By using this pattern they had many advantages
and did not require specially cut corner stones, a factor which
meant a great saving in expenditure.
In addition, the raiders could not demolish the towers as
they were unable to remove stones from the base. The entrance
door to the tower several feet above ground level and entrance
was gained by the use of a ladder which was drawn up into the
tower.
One Thousand Years Old
So, it became a common event for the monks to gather
together their valuables and retire into the tower when bands of
raiders were sighted. The period of isolation in the tower
varied, depending on whether the raiders decided to remain
hours or days. Then, when danger had passed, the monks
returned to their normal way of life.
Today, a steel ladder provides access to the Monasterboice
tower which is divided into five stories, separated by wooden
floors. In 1 871, the Royal Historical and Archaeological
Association renewed these floors and the ladders connecting
them. A sliding trapdoor provides access to the roof which has
been reconstructed in concrete.
It was at this level that the monks are thought to have sounded
their hand bells. The ringing windows, common to other
towers throughout the country, comprised of long upright slots
Mujredach's Cross, West face
28
in the tower wall. But with the loss of the tower's conical roof
these windows were demolished.
Each floor of the tower has one window of its own but all
face in different directions, so it was possible to obr.erve the
countryside and at the same time have only one, or two, windows
at the most, visible from outside the tower. Thus the defenders
could throw missiles from different heights during a seige.
The main cause for anxiety was the danger of fire. In the
event of the tower's timber flooring being set alight by fire-
tipped arrows, the strong draught caused by the tower's general
design, would give the occupants little chance of surviving.
Yet, despite such threats, the Monasterboice tower has
remained standing for almost one thousand years — a lasting
tribute to it's builders. With the exception of the tower on
Scattery Island, it stands supreme, although, like the tower of
Pisa, it is slightly off the perpendicular.
North and South Churches
The Monasterboice Churchyard contains the remains of
two oratories, known as the North Church and the South
Church. The former, which measures 39 ft. 8 ins. by 18 ft.
9 ins., dates from the late thirteenth or early fourteenth cen-
tury.
This date would seem to indicate that it had no real con-
nection with the Monastic settlement, but was probably a
Parish Church built on the site after the Monastery had ceased
to function. It has two doorways and four windows which
were fitted with wooden shutters for use in bad weather.
There are signs which indicate that this Church was fitted
with a gallery at the west end ; an offset is to be seen in the
west wall above the doorway. Inside the Church a granite
stone, believed to have been the shaft of the Baptismal Font,
still remains.
29
Although the floor was originally level throughout there is
now a depression of 2 ft. towards the western end. This, it is
thought, was caused by the large number of interments in the
surrounding cemetery.
The South Church is of earlier construction than the North
Church and measures 32 ft. by 13 ft. 6 ins., and was entered by
a circular arched doorway, comparatively low due to the fact
that this Church had a remarkably low roof. The lack of space
to allow a detailed examination by means of excavation makes
it impossible to form a clear picture of this oratory.
One of its unusual features lies in the fact that it has two side
entrances. It seems to have undergone some alterations by
the building of a new gable wall at the west end and it appears
to have been supported in places by the addition of butresses.
The passage of time has reduced the eastern wall to ruins and
no attempt appears to have been made to restore it.
In the centre of this oratory can be seen a curious type of
bowl which was common to many Churches of the period and
were known as ' bullauns '. It is thought to have served many
purposes including that of a holy water font. As in the case
of the North Church the floor level of this oratory has subsided
by a depth of about 2 feet.
The West Cross
Of the many high crosses to be found throughout Ireland
the two at Monasterboice are of great interest and have won the
praise of antiquaries of many lands. Their panels are decorated
with Biblical and other religious scenes that have withstood the
weather conditions of the centuries.
The West, or Tall Cross shows the most signs of wear. It is
the taller of the two crosses and stands close by the round
tower. The shaft is just 20 ft. high and comprises three separate
stones ; a bottom shaft of 1 1 ft. with a top stone measuring
0k
Muiredach's Cross, East face.
31
2 ft. 3 ins. which is surmounted by the circle.
The west face, closest to the tower, looking from the base
upwards depicts the Resurrection, Baptism and Crucifixion of
Christ. In the centre of the wheel the figure is shown tied to
the Cross with ropes, while the left arm shows Christ being
blindfolded and mocked. The right arm shows Judas' kiss of
betrayal. ■/
On the east face David is shown killing the lion. Above this
Abraham is seen sacrificing Isaac. Next comes the panel
depicting the worship of the Golden Calf and then David with
the head of Goliath above which Goliath is again depicted, this
time preparing to fight the armies of Israel. The centre panel
shows the Ascension.
Muiredach's Cross
Smaller in size, but much clearer and easier to understand
is the 14 ft. 7 ins. high Muiredach's Cross. It is so called because
of the inscription at the base which means " A prayer for
Muiredach by whom this cross was made." It is different from
the West cross in several respects and its shaft consists of only
one stone.
There are conflicting opinions as to the story told by the
scenes depicted on this cross. The east side is thought to be
significant and forms the first part of a story which is continued
on the west face. Briefly, the panels represent the worldly
victory by the Danes over the Irish.
This story continues on the reverse or west side of the cross,
and is thought to signify the triumph of Christianity over
paganism. The episodes are believed to represent the conversion
of Danes or Norsemen at the Annagassan settlement some miles
from the monastery.
In the bottom panel stands an Abbot with tonsured head and
holding a staff, being attacked by two bearded Danish soldiers
32
carrying swords. This was probably the first meeting of the
Abbot and the Danes. Above it the Danes have left aside their
swords and are dressed as monks, holding books, as though
being instructed by the Abbot.
The next scene shows the centre figure giving a scroll to the
figure on the left and a book bearing the word Soscel, Gospel,
to the other figure as if sending them on a journey. The story,
significantly enough, leads to the final subject — the Crucifixion.
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