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1 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

in many ways supplements the accounts of Lewis and Clark.
His ethnological distinctions are less minute; but his remarks
upon the polity, slavery, marriage, warfare, and religion of
the natives west of the Rocky Mountains are worthy of
attention. His skill in Indian languages, as well as long
residence in the country, gave him unusual opportunity for
acquiring valuable information of every sort. At the pres-
ent time, when we are celebrating the close of a century
after the expedition of Lewis and Clark, the reprinting of
this journal of one who followed closely on their footsteps,
is of peculiar importance.

As in the previous volumes of the series, Louise Phelps
Kellogg, Ph. D., has given valuable assistance in the prepa-
ration of notes; and some further aid has been received
from Edith Kathryn Lyle, Ph. D., and Homer C. Hockett,
B.A.

R. G. T.

Madison, Wis., July, 1904.

Brackeniodge's Journal of a Voyage up the River
Missouri in i8ii

Reprint of the second edition (Baltimore, 1816). Parts I, II, and IV
of the Appendix are here omitted, as irrelevant.

JOURNAL

OF

A VOYAGE

VV THE aiTER MISBOUBIb

rSftVOBMBD

ur BroHTBSir hvitdbed and EL&vzir»

BY H. M. BRACKENRIDGE, E»a.
SECOND EDITION,

Btvised and 'Enlarged by the ^Author,

BALTIMORE:

PVBXISaSD BY COAXE AND MAXVSIXy

<i^ (A£ Ueading Rooms, JVb. 204 .Variice/ street

Tomeny U Toy, priaten.
1816.

DISTRICT OF MARYLAND, To wit:

BE IT REMEMBERED, that on this eighth day of December, in
the fortieth year of the Independence of the United States

[Seal] of America, Coale & Maxwell, of the said District, have

deposited in this Office, the Title of a Book, the right

whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the words and figures following,

to wit:

"Journal of a Voyage up the River Missouri; performed in eighteen

hundred and eleven, by H. M. Brackenridge, Esq., second edition,

revised and enlarged by the author."

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States,
entitled, "An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the
copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of
such copies, during the times therein mentioned;" and also to the Act
entitled, "An act supplementary to an Act, entitled, 'An Act for the
encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts,
and Books, to the authors and Proprietors of such copies during the
times therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts
of Designing, Engraving, and Etching historical and other prints. * *

PHILIP MOORE,
Clerk oj the District of Maryland.

PREFACE

The following is the Journal of a voyage, of four or five
months, on the Missouri river, beyond the settlements.
The voyage was undertaken in the spirit of adventure,
which characterises so many of our countrymen, and with
little or no expectation of profit or advantage. The accounts
received from different persons had greatly excited my
curiosity. The conversation of Manuel Lisa, a man of an
ardent and enterprising character, and one of the most cele-
brated of those who traverse the Indian country, had in-
flamed my mind with the desire of attempting something of
a similar nature. I set off with the intention of making a
summer excursion, as a simple hunter, unprovided with the
means of making mathematical observations, but little [iv]
acquainted with any of the branches of natural history, and
without once imagining that I should ever publish the result
of my observations. Afterwards, having published a vol-
ume, under the title of "Views of Louisiana," the present
Journal was placed in the appendix. But having been at
first written in a loose and careless manner, the style, I fear,
notwithstanding the corrections it has undergone, still
retains too much of its original defect. There are certainly
many things which might be omitted; there are also topics,
which the reader will be disappointed in finding untouched :
to this, I must answer, that having already entered into a
variety of details, in something like a regular and syste-
matic work, it would be improper to repeat them here.

The author aims at no higher ambition, than to afford
some amusement to his fellow-citizens, by a simple detail of
the incidents of his tour. On one subject, however, he

24 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

hopes this little volume will not be useless to the public;
that is, in conveying something like an exact idea of the
extent to which the immense regions west of the Mississippi
are susceptible of population. This is a consideration [v]
to the statesman of no small moment. In developing the
resources of a great empire, destined in twenty-five years
hence, to contain twenty millions of souls, a correct estimate
of the amount of its habitable territory is surely not unim-
portant. It is with this view chiefly, that I have been in-
duced to publish this Journal in a separate volume, as in
this way it will have a tendency to produce a more general
acquaintance with a portion of our country, so vast in
extent and so interesting in its character.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

Motives of the voyage — Set off from St. Charles — Navigation

of the Missouri — A militia captain . - - _ ay

CHAPTER n

Try our sails with success — Account of an extraordinary
female maniac — Adventure of the she-bear — Arrival at
Fort Osage — Gain considerably on Hunt - - - 40

CHAPTER m

Orison of the Osages — Discontents in our party — News of

Hunt — An excursion — Arrival at the river Platte - 61

CHAPTER IV

Council Bluffs — Blackbird Hills — Maha villages — Disap-
pointment in not overtaking Hunt — Floyd's bluff - - 77

CHAPTER V

Frightful rapids — News of Mr. Henry — A buffaloe — The

Poncas — Meet the Sioux — Overtake Mr. Hunt - - 87

CHAPTER VI

Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttal — An excursion — Rupture be-
tween the leaders of our parties — Arrival at the Arikara
villages -- -- 100

[viii] CHAPTER VII

Arikara villages — An alarm in the village — Manners and

customs ---._.--- 114

CHAPTER VIII

Proceed to the Mandan villages — A buffaloe hunt — Arrival

at the Mandan villages - - - - - - - 132

26 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

CHAPTER DC
Mandan villages — Return to Ankara — Scene after a battle - 138

CHAPTER X

Set off to return — Battle of buffaloes — Fort Clark — Arrival

at St. Louis _._- 146

APPENDIX

Extract from the Views of Louisiana - - - - - 153
[Table of distances, from the mouth of the Missouri to the Man-
dan Villages] --------- 164

BRACKENRIDGE'S JOURNAL

CHAPTER I^

Motives of the Voyage — Set oflf from St. Charles — Navi-
gation of the Missouri — A militia captain.

Before the memorable expedition of Lewis and Clark,
none was found adventurous enough to penetrate that exten-
sive portion of our continent, more than a few hundred
miles. It was almost as little known to us, as the interior
of New Holland, or the deserts of Africa. After the return
of those celebrated travellers, several Indian traders were
induced to extend the sphere of their enterprise, and one of
them, Manuel Lisa, ascended the Missouri almost to its
source. These enterprising individuals meeting with consid-
erable success, a trading company [2] or association followed,
under the name of The Missouri Fur Company, formed in
the hope of carrying on this business more extensively than
it had hitherto been practised, and, in time, of rivalling even
the British associations in Canada. The company was
composed of twelve persons, with a capital of about forty
thousand dollars. A small sum it is true, but as much as
was necessary for a beginning. The company engaged
about two hundred and fifty men, Canadians and Americans;

* As Brackenridge followed closely upon the route taken by Bradbury, the
author of the Travels published as vol. v of our series, references to notes in the
latter will for the most part be made at the beginning of each chapter. For refer-
ence to Missoxiri Fur Company, see note 149 of vol. v; Blackfeet Indians, note 120;
Andrew Henry, note 124; Manuel Lisa, note 64; St. Charles, note 9; Wilson P.
Hunt, note 2; Tavern Rock, note 12; Point I'Abbadie, note 13; La Charette,
note 15; Potawatomi Indians, note 21. — Ed.

28 Karly Western Travels [Vol. 6

the first for the purpose of navigating the boats, but the
latter as hunters: for it was their intention to hunt as well
as trade. In the spring of 1808, they ascended the Missouri
in barges, and left trading establishments in the Sioux
country, also among the Arikaras and Mandans. After this
they proceeded with the main body to the three forks of the
Missouri; about three thousand miles from its source. The
junction of the three rivers, Jefferson, Madison, and Gal-
latin, are considered as forming the Missouri. The sur-
rounding country, when compared with the bare plains of
the Missouri, may be called woody, and from its situation
is weU supplied with mountain streams. That ingenious
and [3] persecuted little animal, the beaver, is found here in
great numbers, and this was the principal inducement for
the company in establishing themselves here. But it is not
in the power of those who adventure in untried paths, to
foresee all the obstacles which lie in the way. It is seldom
the first adventurer, who reaps the profits derived from
opening a new road of enterprise ; it is some one who follows
him, and takes warning from his misfortunes. The country
about the sources of the Missouri, forms a part of the tract
wandered over by a nation of Indians, called the Blackjoot,
a ferocious savage race, who have conceived the most deadly
hatred to the Americans. This hatred is partly owing to an
unfortunate rencontre between one of the natives and cap-
tain Lewis. On that gentleman's return from the Columbia,
in pursuing some of these Indians who had stolen some
articles from his camp he killed one of them by a shot from
his rifle. Something may also be ascribed to the instigation
of British traders, and perhaps to the jealousies of the
Indians themselves, on seeing white hunters coming to
establish themselves in their country and to destroy the
beaver. However this may be, [4] it was not long after the
establishment of the company and their building a fort,

i8ii] Brackenridge' s Journal 29

before the Blackfeet commenced hostilities. A hunting
party of the whites, consisting of ten or twelve, whilst en-
camped on a small stream, were suddenly attacked, four of
them killed and the rest escaped with difficulty. It was
now found necessary to go out on their hunting parties in
considerable strength, which put them to great inconven-
ience, and rendered their success in hunting of little or no
account; they were besides subject to frequent attacks,
which harrassed them exceedingly. Instead of three hun-
dred packs, upon which they might have calculated had
they remained unmolested, they hardly procured thirty the
first year: and the second none at all. The party was re-
duced to about sixty persons, by the detachments left at the
different trading establishments below, and by persons sent
off with such furs as had been collected: add to this, about
twenty had fallen in the different skirmishes with the
Indians. Mr. Henry, one of the members of the company,
who had the command of the party, finding his situation
extremely precarious, crossed the Rocky Mountains, and
established [5] himself on one of the branches of the Colum-
bia, where he remained until the spring of 181 1, the period
at which I ascended the Missouri.

In the mean time the establishments at the Mandan and
Arikara nations brought no profit, and at the Sioux estab-
lishment, after collecting buffaloe robes and beaver fur to
the amount of fifteen or twenty thousand dollars, the factory
took fire and the whole was burnt. It was now a prevailing
opinion that the affairs of the company were completely
ruined. Beside their losses it was not known at this time
what had become of Mr. Henry and his party, who had not
been heard of for more than a year. In this state of things,
it was resolved, in the spring of 181 1, to make one more
effort, and if possible retrieve their losses. It was moreover
considered as a duty to carry relief to their distressed com-

30 Biarly Western Travels [Vd. 6

panions, and bring them home. Manuel Lisa was chosen
to undertake this arduous task. A man of a bold and daring
character, with an energy and spirit of enterprise like that
of Cortez or Pizarro. There is no one better acquainted
with the Indian character and trade, and few are his equals
in [6] persevering indefatigable industry. Possessed of an
ardent mind and of a frame capable of sustaining every
hardship. It would have been difficult for the company to
have found a person better qualified for this enterprise. I
believe there are few persons so completely master of the
secret of doing much in a short space of time; which does
not consist so much in any great exertion, as in the strict
observance of that economy which requires every moment
to be turned to advantage. I feel a pleasure in bestowing
this just praise on Mr. Lisa, whose kindness and friendship
I experienced in so great a degree in the course of the voyage,
and for the entertainment I have received at his hospitable
board at St. Louis. Unfortunately, however, from what
cause I know not, the majority of the members of the com-
pany have not the confidence in Mr. Lisa which he so justly
merits; but, on this occasion, he was entrusted with the sole
direction of their affairs from necessity, as the most proper
person to conduct an expedition which appeared so little
short of desperate. The funds of the company were at so
low an ebb, that it was with some difficulty a barge of [7]
twenty tons could be fitted out with merchandise to the
amount of a few thousand dollars, and a patron' procured.
The members were unwilling to stake their private credit
where prospects were so little flattering. This was also the
last year appointed for the continuance of the association,
and there was no certainty of its being renewed.

With respect to myself, I must own to the reader, that I
had no other motive for undertaking a tour of several thou-

' Patron, a fresh water sailing-master. — Brackenkidge.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s yournal 31

sand miles, through regions but seldom marked even by the
wandering footsteps of the savage, than what he will term
an idle curiosity: and I must confess that I might have em-
ployed my time more beneficially to myself, and more use-
fully to the community. Would that I were able to make
some amends, by describing the many interesting objects
which I witnessed, in such a manner, as to enable the reader
to participate in the agreeable parts of my peregrinations.

We sat off from the village of St. Charles, on Tuesday,
the 2d of April, 181 1, with delightful weather. The flood
of March, which [8] immediately succeeds the breaking up
of the ice, had begun to subside, yet the water was still high.
Our barge was the best that ever ascended this river, and
manned with twenty stout oars-men. Mr. Lisa, who had
been a sea-captain, took much pains in rigging his boat with
a good mast, and main and top-sail; these being great helps
in the navigation of this river. Our equipage is chiefly com-
posed of young men, though several have already made a
voyage to the upper Missouri, of which they are exceedingly
proud, and on that account claim a kind of precedence over
the rest of the crew. We are in all, twenty-five men, and
completely prepared for defence. There is, besides, a
swivel on the bow of the boat, which, in case of attack,
would make a formidable appearance; we have also two
brass blunderbusses in the cabin, one over my birth, and
the other over that of Mr. Lisa. These precautions were
absolutely necessary from the hostility of the Sioux bands,
who, of late had committed several murders and robberies
on the whites, and manifested such a disposition that it was
believed impossible for us to pass through their country.
The greater part [9] of the merchandise, which consisted of
strouding, blankets, lead, tobacco, knifes, guns, beads, &c.,
was concealed in a false cabin, ingeniously contrived for the
purpose; in this way presenting as little as possible to tempt

3 2 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

the savages. But we hoped, that as this was not the season
for the wandering tribes to come on the river, the autumn
being the usual time, we might pass by unnoticed. Mr.
Wilson P. Hunt had set ofiE with a large party about twenty-
three days before us, on his way to the Columbia, we
anxiously hoped to overtake him before he entered the Sioux
nation ; for this purpose it was resolved to strain every nerve,
as upon it, in a great measure depended the safety of our
voyage.

Having proceeded a few miles above St. Charles, we put
to shore, some of our men still remaining at the village. It
is exceedingly difficult to make a start on these voyages,
from the reluctance of the men to terminate the frolic with
their friends, which usually precedes their departure. They
set in to drinking and carousing, and it is impossible to col-
lect them on board. Sometimes they make their carousals
at the expense of the Bourgeois: [lo] they are credited by
the tavern keeper, who knows that their employer will be
compelled to pay, to prevent the delay of the voyage. Many
vexatious abuses are practised in these cases. It was found
impossible to proceed any farther this evening — the men in
high glee from the liquor they had drank before starting:
they were therefore permitted to take their swing.

We had on board a Frenchman named Charboneau, with
his wife, an Indian woman of the Snake nation, both of
whom had accompanied Lewis and Clark to the Pacific,
and were of great service.' The woman, a good creature,

' Toussaint Charbonneau had been an employe (1793-94) of the North West
Company, at Pine Fort on the Assiniboin. About 1796 he came among the Mini-
taree (Hidasta) on Knife River, living at their central village, Metaharta. Lewis
and Clark found him among the Mandan, with whom they wintered (180405).
They engaged him as an interpreter for their detachment. His chief qualifiication
for that service was that he had for his squaw a yovmg woman of the Shoshoni (or
Snake) tribe, who some five years previous, when a child, had been captured by a
war party of Minitaree. Her name is given by Lewis and Clark, in their journals,
both as Sacajawea and Sahgahjawea, meaning "bird woman," but modern stu-

i8ii] Brackenridge's youmal 33

of a mild and gentle disposition, greatly attached to the
whites, whose manners and dress she tries to imitate, but
she had become sickly, and longed to revisit her native
country; her husband, also, who had spent many years
among the Indians, had become weary of a civilized life.
So true it is, that the attachment to the savage state, or the
state of nature, (with which appellation it has commonly
been dignified,) is much stronger than to that of civilization,
with all its comforts, its refinements, and its security.

[11] The next day, about two o'clock in the afternoon,
having at length succeeded in getting all hands on board,
we proceeded on our voyage. Found an excessive current,
augmented by the state of the waters. Having come about
six miles encamped. In the course of this evening had as
much cause to admire the dexterity of our Canadians and
Creoles, as I had before to condemn their frivolity. I be-
lieve an American could not be brought to support with
patience the fatiguing labors and submission which these
men endure. At this season, when the water is exceedingly
cold, they leap in without a moment's hesitation. Their
food consists of lied com homony* for breakfast, a slice of
fat pork and biscuit for dinner, and a pot of mush, with a

dents of Indian linguistics state that the proper phonetic spelling is Tsakikawea,
Sakdkawea, Sak^gawea, or Sacigawea — preferably the last. The place of her
capture was Fort Rock, at the Three Forks of the Missouri (Gallatin, Jeflferson,
and Madison rivers). Sacajawea — as she has come to be known in historical
accounts — and her infant son accompanied Lewis and Clark to the Pacific, her
services proving valuable both as interpreter and guide. Upon the return journey,
the explorers offered to take Charbonneau and his squaw to the settlements, but
they preferred remaining among the Mandan. Charbonneau was seen (1833) in
the Minitaree villages by Prince Maximilien (see vols, xxii, xxiii, and xxiv of avx
series). Five years later Larpenteur encountered him in the same region, when
he speaks of him as an old man. See Coues (ed.). Forty Years a Fur Trader on
the Upper Missouri (New York, 1898). This is the last known of Charbonneau.
An Indian visiting St. Louis in 1902, claimed to be a great-grandson of Charbon-
neau and Sacajawea. — Ed.

* "Lied com" is that from which the skin of the kernels has been stripped by
the use of lye; sometimes called "hulled com." — Ed.

34 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

pound of tallow in it, for supper. Yet this is better than the
common fare; but we were about to make an extraordinary-
voyage, and the additional expense was not regarded.

During the night we were completely drenched with the
rain; the bark itself in a bad condition in the morning.
Weather somewhat cloudy — clearing up. A short distance
from our encampment, the hills approach the river [12]
N. E. side; they are not high, but rocky, and do not continue
more than a mile, when the alluvion again commences.
About eight a fine breeze S. E. sailed until twelve — passed
several plantations S. W. side. The bottoms are very
extensive on the lower part of this river, the banks high, far
above the reach of inundation. Timber, principally cotton
wood; a few of the trees intermixed with it are beginning to
vegetate. The red-bud, the tree which blooms earliest in
our woods, and so much admired by those who descend the
Ohio, early in the spring, appear, in a few places. Passed
an island, where the river widens considerably; the current
rapid, obliged to abandon oars and poles, and take the
towing line. Above the island the bluffs again approach
the river; there is a brownish -colored rock, with a few dwarf
cedars growing on the top and in the clefts. In going too
near the shore, we had the misfortune to have our top-mast
broken by the projecting limb of a tree. Encamped some
distance above.

This evening one of the most serene and beautiful I ever
beheld, and the calmness of the water in unison with the
cloudless sky. Several [13] deer, which I descried at a great
distance, stepping through the shoals which separated the
smooth sand bars, seemed to move across this stilly scene,
like the shadows of the phantasmagoria, or Ossian's deer
made of mist. I now felt that we had entered on our voyage
in earnest. He that has not experienced something of these
solitary voyages, far removed from the haunts of civilization,.

i8ii] Brackenridge's Journal 35

can scarcely imagine the heaviness which at the moment of
departure weighs upon the heart. We all looked serious.
I could see that some of our poor fellows heaved a sigh at
the prospect before them, and at the recollection of the pleas-
ant homes which they had left behind in the hopes of gaining
a little money; perhaps to support a wife and children. A
fire was kindled on the bank, the pot of mush and homony
were prepared : and after their frugal repast, wrapping them-
selves up in their buffaloe robes and blankets, they soon for-
got their woes in sleep. — I observed on the sand bars, a kind
of scaffold, ten or fifteen feet in height, which I was informed
was erected by the neighbouring settlers for the purpose of
shooting the deer by moon-light; these usually come out of
the [14] thickets at this time, to avoid the moschetoes and to
sport on the smooth beach: the hunter ascends the scaffold,
and remains until the deer approaches. Came this day
about twenty miles; navigation comparatively easy.

Friday ^ih. Wind S. E. this morning, enabling us to set
off under sail — continued until ten, when it forsook us.
Passed several plantations, and two islands. The bluffs dis-
appear on the N. E. side, and are seen on the S. W. for the
first time since our leaving St. Charles. They rise about
two hundred feet, and are faced with rock, in masses sepa-
rated by soil and vegetation. These are called the Tavern
rocks, from the circumstance of a cave in one of them afford-
ing a stopping place for voyagers ascending, or on returning
to their homes after a long absence. The Indians seem to
have had some veneration for the spot, as it is tolerably well
scratched over with their rude attempts at representing
birds and beasts. From this place, through a long reach, or
straight part of the river, we have a distant view of the ter-
minating bluffs N. E. side. A violent storm of rain, wind,
and thunder, compelled us to put to shore, having passed a
very [15] dangerous and difficult place. The number of

3 6 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

trees which had lately fallen into the river, and the danger
to be apprehended from others, which seemed to have but
a slender hold, rendered our situation extremely disagreeable.
Towards evening a canoe with six or seven men passed on
the other side, but we were unable to distinguish them. At
this place I measured a cotton- wood tree, which was thirty-
six inches in circumference; they grow larger on the lower
parts of this river than perhaps any where else in America.
The bluffs, in the course of this day appeared higher, but
not so abrupt or rocky.

Saturday, 6th. Having passed a small willow island, we
foimd ourselves beyond the hills on the S. W. side. At ii
o'clock the wind became so high that we were compelled to
stop, as it blew directly down the river. This is Boon's set-
tlement — about sixty miles from St. Charles. A number
of plantations at the edge of the bottom.® The wind abated
in the evening, we proceeded a few miles further and en-
camped.

Sunday ph. Water rising. Crossed to the S. W. side,
and encountered a very swift current, [i6] at the head of a
willow island. The diificulty of this navigation is not easily
described. Made Point Labadie, so called from a French
trader, who formerly wintered here. Forty years ago this
was thought a distant point on the Missouri, at present there
are tolerable plantations every where through the bottom.
The carcases of several drowned buffaloes passed by us; it
is said that an unusual number of them have been drowned
this year — some have been seen floating on the river at
St. Louis. Upwards of forty were counted on the head of
an island, by a gentleman who lately descended the river

* This was the settlement known as the Femme Osage, made by the sons and
several friends of Daniel Boone, upon land granted to the latter (1795) by the
Spanish governor, Don Trudeau. The plantations extended for several miles
along the Femme Osage Creek. Bradbury (see vol. v of o\ir series) met Boone
some distance farther up the river. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s yournal 37

from fort Osage. In the spring of the year great numbers
of. these animals perish in attempting to pass the river on the
ice, which at this season is easily broken. Immediately
below the Point Labadie the river contracts its breadth, and
is confined to a channel of three or four hundred yards
wide. Passed between an island and the main shore; a
very narrow channel, but the current and distance less.
A channel of this sort is often taken in preference, and it is
one of the means facilitating the ascending of this uncom-
monly rapid river: but there is sometimes danger of [17] the
upper end being closed with logs and billets of wood matted
together, as it turned out in the present instance ; fortunately
for us after the labor of an hour we were able to remove the
obstacles, else we should have been compelled to return.
Opposite the head of the island there is a tolerable log-
house, and some land cleared; the tenant, a new-comer,
with a wife and six children, had nothing to give or sell.
Here the banks fall in very much : the river more than a mile
wide. A great impediment in opening lands on this river
is the dilapidation of the banks, which immediately ensue
when the trees are cut away, from the current acting upon a
soil of a texture so extremely loose. It will be found abso-
lutely necessary to leave the trees standing on the borders of
the river. The river exceedingly crooked in the course of
this day. A number of plantations on both sides. These
usually consist of a few acres cleared, on the borders
of the river, with a small log hut or cabin, and stables
for horses, &c. They raise a little Indian com, pumpions,
potatoes, and a few vegetables. But they have abundance
of hogs and homed cattle. Having made about fourteen [18]
miles, we put to shore, after passing a very difficult embar-
ras. This word requires some explanation. Independently
of the current of that vast volume of water rolling with
great impetuosity, the navigation is obstructed by various

38 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

other impediments. At the distance of every mile or two,
and frequently at smaller intervals, there are embarras, or
rafts, formed by the collection of trees closely matted, and
extending from twenty to thirty yards. The current vexed
by these interruptions, rushes round them with great violence
and force. We may now judge what a boat encounters in
grappling round these rafts. When the oars and grappling
hooks were found insufficient, the towing line was usually
resorted to with success. There is not only difficulty here,
but considerable danger, in case the boat should swing
round. In bends where the banks fall in, as in the Missis-
sippi, trees lie for some distance out in the river. In doub-
ling points, in passing sawyers, difficulties are encountered.
The water is generally too deep to admit of poling; it would
be absolutely impossible to stem the current further out
than a few yards; the boat usually passes about this dis-
tance from [19] the bank. Where the bank has not been
washed steep, which is most usually the case, and the ground
newly formed, the young tree, of the willow, cotton- wood >
&c., which overhang the stream, afford much assistance in
pulling the boat along with the hands.

Monday 8th. The water fell last night as much as it had
risen. About ten, came in sight of a little village N. E. side
called Charette. There are about thirty families here, who
hunt, and raise a little com. A very long island lies in the
bend in which this village is situated. About this island,
passed under a gentle breeze, some very handsome bluffs,
S. W. side to the isle aux Boeujs; they are about one hun-
dred feet high, and excepting a few places where rocks
appear, covered with oak and other timber. At this place
the river makes a considerable bend. Instead of taking the
main channel, we entered a small one between the island
and the shore, which will shorten the distance; the current
not so strong. The channel is about fifty yards wide, and

i8ii] Brackenridge's 'Journal 39

very handsome, having clean even banks, and resembling a
small river. It is about four miles in length.

[20] Through all these islands, and on the Missouri bot-
toms, there are great quantities of rushes, commonly called
scrub grass.' They grow four or five feet high, and so close,
as to render it very disagreeable, as well as difficult, to pass
through the woods. The cattle feed upon them in the win-
ter, answering the same purpose as the cane on the Mis-
sissippi.

At the upper end of the isle aux Boeufs, we were compelled
about five o'clock in the evening to put to shore, on account
of a violent storm, which continued until after dark. In the
badly constructed cabin of our boat, we were wet to the
skin: the men were better off in their tents, made by a
blanket stretched over twigs.

We have been accompanied for these two days past, by a
man and two lads; ascending in a canoe. This evening
they encamped close by us, placing the canoe under cover
of our boat. Unsheltered, except by the trees on the bank,
and a ragged quilt drawn over a couple of forks, they abode
the '^pelting of the pitiless storm," with apparent indiffer-
ence. These [21] people are well dressed in handsome
home-made cotton cloth. The man seemed to possess no
small share of pride and self importance, which, as I after-
wards discovered, arose from his being a captain of militia.
He borrowed a kettle from us, and gave it to one of his boys.
When we were about to sit down to supper he retired, but
returned when it was over; when asked, why he had not
staid to do us the honor of supping with us; "I thank you
gentlemen," said he, licking his lips with satisfaction, "I
have just been eating an excellent supper." He had
scarcely spoken, when the patron came to inform Mr. Lisa,
the boys were begging him for a biscuit, as they had eaten

• This is the case for several hundred miles up the Missouri. — Brackeneidge.

40 ^arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

nothing for two days! our visitant was somewhat discon-
certed, but passed it off with "poh! I'm sure they can't be
suffering!"

He resides on the Gasconade; his was the second family
which settled in that quarter about three years ago. He has
at present about two hundred and fifty men on his muster
roll. We were entertained by him with a long story of his
having pursued some Pottawatomies, who had committed
robberies on the settlements some time last summer; he
made a narrow [22] escape, the Indians having attacked his
party in the night time, and killed four of his men after a
desperate resistance. The captain had on board a barrel
of whiskey to set up tavern with, a bag of cotton for his vsdfe
to spin, and a couple of kittens, for the purpose of augment-
ing his family: these kept up such doleful serenades during
the night that I was scarcely able to close my eyes.

CHAPTER II'

Try our sails with success — Account of an extraordinary
female maniac — Adventure of the she-bear — Arrival at
Fort Osage — Gain considerably on Hunt.

Early the next morning we got under way with a light
breeze, enabling us to carry sail tolerably well. About ten
o'clock, from a change in the course of the river, it was
found necessary to haul down the sail. On turning a point
we found the wind once more [23] favorable, and blowing
quite fresh; we now ascended at the rate of four miles an
hour. The captain of the Gasconade, who had thus far
kept up with us, was now left far behind. We passed in
the course of the day, a number of plantations on both sides

' Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbuiy's Travels, vol. v of our series: Isle a la Latre (Loutre Island), note 19;
C6te sans Dessein, note 20; Manitou rocks and Bonne Femme Creek, note 23;
Osage Indians, note 22; Fort Osage, note 31; George Sibley, note 36; General
Clark, note 143; Chief White Hair, note 108. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge's 'Journal 41

of the river. We also passed an island about twelve miles
in length, called isle a la Latre, which is separated from the
northern bank by a very narrow channel. There is a com-
pact settlement on this island.

In the evening we passed the Gasconade river, which
enters the Missouri from the S. W. side, and about ninety
miles from the mouth of the latter river. The Gasconade is
a considerable stream, takes its rise with the Maramek of
the Mississippi, and has been na\^gated upwards of one
hundred miles in canoes, but its channel is said to be rocky.
The lands on its borders are broken, and hUly, and badly
wooded. Salt petre caves have been discovered in its
vicinity, and there is no doubt that lead ore may be found
in abundance. Before reaching this river, we passed a long
range of bluffs, or low hills, well covered with wood, and
terminating at the entrance of the river, in rocky precipices:
the range appears again on the [24] other side of the Gasco-
nade. The Missouri has a course nearly straight, of fifteen
miles, washing the hills before mentioned the whole of
this distance. The experience of this day satisfied me of
,the efficacy of sails in this navigation, and served to
lessen in my estimation the difficulties attending it. Our
men were enabled to repose themselves while we were carried
through places more difficult than any we had seen since
our leaving St. Charles. Six miles above the Gasconade we
put to shore and encamped.

The vicinity of this place recalled to my recollection a
curious story of a female maniac, who is said to be wander-
ing in its neighbourhood. I had made some inquiries of the
militia captain, who told me she had once come to his canoe
whilst he was encamped near the mouth of the river, and
carried away some provision which he gave her. She had
been frequently seen at some of the plantations, but could
not be prevailed upon to stay. This it was supposed was

42 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

generally during more lucid intervals. When any thing was
given to her, such as food or clothing, she immediately fled
to the wilderness. Her attention to the [25] latter article I
considered as somewhat extraordinary, as unhappy crea-
tures of this description, usually manifest a total disregard
to their apparel. None could tell who she was, or whence
she came, by what means she is able to subsist, or how with-
stand the winter's cold ; for she was first seen more than two
years ago, shortly after the settlements commenced. I had
heard the story at St. Louis, but regarded it as fabulous.
I have seen an account of a female who was found in the
Pyrennees under circumstances still more extraordinary.'
[26] Wednesday loth. We experienced heavy rains last

' The circumstance gave rise to the following: —
Lines on an unfortunate female maniac, seen on the Missouri, beyond the white

settlements.
What strange — what spectre shape art thou,

The terror of this savage scene,
That glid'st beneath the poplar bough,

With looks so wild, and haggard mien ?
Far, far, the haunts of men are past,
Mid silent hills, and lonely woods,
Where Nature rules the dreary waste,
Missouri, pours his turbid floods.

Speak — whate'er thou art declare —

The spirit of the gloomy groves.
Unreal vision of the air.

Or daughter of the oozy waves ?
And yet, that loose dishevell'd hair.

Those rent and tatter' d weeds, betray
A human form, in deep despair,

Some wretched child of misery.

Ha ! the sad, the silent tear —

Mayhap, some lost distracted maid,
By anguish torn, pursued by fear.

From friends and dearest home hast stray'd;
Forlorn, amid these dreary shades,

The haunt of ev'ry savage thing,
Where death on ev'ry side invades,

And hope no more may comfort bring?

i8ii] Brackenridge s Journal 43

night. This morning cloudy. Crossed to the bluffs, N. E.
side, which are high and rocky. Early this morning passed
another, resting place for voyagers, called Montbrunt's
tavern." Shortly after we encountered the most difl5cult
embarras, (N. E. side,) that we have seen since the com-
mencement of our voyage. After passing the bluffs, we
found extensive low lands on each side of the river. The
verdure [27] is observed to be rapidly increasing; the smaller
trees and the shrubs, are dressed out in the livery of spring.
The yellowish colour of the water, towards the S. W. bank,
shews that the Osage is paying the annual tribute. It is in
this month that its floods usually happen. Throughout the
whole of this day the wind was against us, which retarded
our progress considerably. Great exertions are made by
Mr. Lisa, he is at one moment at the helm, at another with
the grappling iron at the bow, and often with a pole, assist-
ing the hands in impelling the barge through the rapid cur-
rent. The superiority of minds is seen in the smallest inci-
dents; on these occasions where the difficulties appeared to

Lo ! see, with hollow shriek she flies —

'Tis the poor maniac of the wild:
Soon, soon, she vanish'd from our eyes,

The lost — the heav'n protected child. —
In wonder, long the shore we gaze.

And stiU we hear the piercing cry —
Our blood still curdles with amaze,

As when red lightning flashes nigh.

Alas! poor hopeless, phrenzied maid,

Who has thus sadly injur'd thee ?
Perhaps, by falsehood's tongue betra/d,

Or stung by vip'rous cruelty.
Sad maniac of the wilderness,

May heav'n still in safety keep,
And when thy darken'd ray shall pass,
The silent grove o'er thee will weep.

— Brackenridge.
' Montbrun's Tavern was a large cave upon the north bank of the river, just
above a creek of the same name — that of an early French trader. It is now
known as Big Tavern Creek, in Callaway County. — Ed.

44 ^arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

the rest insurmountable, the presence of this man, his voice,
his orders, and cheering exclamations, infused new energy,
and another effort was crowned with success.

Thursday, nth. A fine morning. It had not been long
after setting off, before we found the current so strong from
the waters of the Osage, that we were compelled to cross to
an island. The upland on the N. E. side. We continued
to be harrassed on this side of the river through the day, on
account of the different [28] embarras and falling in of the
banks. We ascended principally with the cordelle, usually
the last resort: for the close woods and brush which cover
the margin of the river, as well as the trees and logs, along
the edge of the water, render it troublesome for the men to
pass along with the towing line. This is a fine country; the
lands are extremely rich, and covered with a great variety
of fine trees, chiefly the sycamore, cotton wood, (populus
deltoidos,) ash, oak, &c. We stopped a few moments at the
cabin of an old Frenchman, who is beginning to open a plan-
tation, according to the phraseology of the western country.
In company with Charboneau, the interpreter, I proceeded
across a point about two miles to the village of Cote sans
Dessein, where we arrived nearly three hours before the
barge. In coming to this place, we passed through some
open woods, and some good lands. To our eager inquiries
after Mr. Hunt, we were told, that he passed here about
three weeks before. Thus far we have gained about two
days upon him.

Friday, 12th. Weather fine — a gentle breeze from the
S. E. We found it necessary to remain [29] here until
eleven o'clock, while our cabin, which leaked very much,
was undergoing a repair. It was constructed of light
boards elevated on the sides of the boat, and covered with
shingles badly put on. Mr. Lisa here employed a famous
hunter, named Castor, a Kansas Indian, who had been

i8ii] Brackenridge's youmal 45

much amongst the whites, and spoke French well. I here
-learned the cause of Lisa's anxiety to overtake the party of
Hunt. Lisa was apprehensive that Hunt would do him
some ill office with the Sioux bands; that in order to secure
his own passage through these, he would represent the cir-
cumstance of their own trader being on his way with goods
for them. Should this happen, we might expect to be
detained in the country, or perhaps robbed. Besides, we
supposed that by this augmentation of Hunt's party, which
consisted of about eighty men, we should be so formidable
as to impose respect upon the savages, and compel them to
relinquish their designs.

The Cote sans Dessein is a beautiful place, situated on the
N. E. side of the river, and in sight of the Osage. It will in
time become a considerable village. The beauty and fer-
tility [30] of the surrounding country cannot be surpassed.
It is here that we met with the first appearance of the
prairie, on the Missouri, but it is handsomely mixed with
wood land. The wooded country on the N. E. extends at
least thirty miles, as far up as this place, and not less than fif-
teen on the other side. The name is given to this placeirom
the circumstance of a single detached hill, filled with lime-
stone standing on the bank of the river, about six hundred
yards long, and very narrow. The village has been estab-
lished about three years; there are thirteen French families,
and two or three of Indians. They have handsome fields in
the prairie, but the greater part of their time is spent in
hunting. From their eager inquiries after merchandise, I
perceived we were already remote from the settlements.

We continued under way, with a light breeze, but scarcely
sufficient to waft the barge of itself, without the aid of oars.
— Handsome wooded upland, S. W. side, gently sloping to
the river, and not rocky. For many reasons, I would prefer
these situations to the bottom, where the soil is richer.

46 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

Passed the Great Osage river, one hundred and thirty-three
miles [31] from the mouth of the Missouri, and navigable
about six hundred miles. There is much fine land imme-
diately on its borders, but the prairies stretch out on either
side, and to the westward are almost boundless. The
Osage villages are situated about two hundred miles up.

Passed a long island, called V isle o' Cedre, Cedar island.
A number of islands on the Missouri bear this name, from
the growth of cedar upon them, in this particular, differing
from the islands of the Mississippi. In this island all the
largest trees had been cut down, and rafted to St. Louis, to
supply the settlements with this wood, of which there is a
great consumption.

Throughout the course of this day, we found the navi-
gation less arduous and painful; owing principally to the
falling of the waters, and to our having passed one of those
rivers which add to the current of the Missouri. The sand
bars, begin to present a pleasing appearance; several mUes
in length, clean and smooth. Instead of ascending along
either side, we pursued the middle of the river, along the
sand bars. Encamped N. E. side, just above the Cedar
island. The bars and the sides of [32] the river are every
where marked with deer tracks.

Saturday, iph. A fine morning — somewhat cool — set
off with a favourable breeze. Passed hills on the S. W.
side — saw five or six deer sporting on a sand bar. Passed
the Manitoo rocks, S. W. side, and la Bonne Femme creek.
The country here-about, is delightful; the upland sloping
gently to the river, timbered with oak, hickory, ash, &c.
The lands on this stream are said not to be surpassed by
any in the territory.

After having had a favourable wind the greater part of
the day, encamped at the Roche percee, perforated rock; a

i8ii] Brackenridge* s youmal 47

high craggy cliff on the N. E. side." This is the narrowest
part of the river I have yet seen; it is scarcely two hundred
yards wide. — Made in the course of this day about twenty-
eight miles, for which we were indebted to the favourable
wind. Some of us considered this good fortune a reward
for the charity which was manifested by us yesterday, in
spending an hour in relieving a poor ox, who was swamped
near the bank. The poor creature had remained here ten
or twelve days, and the sand into which he had [33] sunk
was become hard and solid. The wolves had paid him
friendly visits from time to time, to inquire after his health,
while buzzards, crows, and eagles tendered their salutations
from the neighbouring trees.

Sunday i^ih. Violent wind all night — hoisted sail be-
fore day light, in order to take advantage of the wind.
Passed the Manitoo N. E. side, and high rocks. A delight-
ful country. Wind slackened about ten. At twelve, came
in sight of the hills of Mine river, S. W. side. This river is
not navigable more than ten or twelve miles. Valuable salt
works are established here. The whole of this day we
found rich and extensive bottoms, N. E. side, and beautiful
sloping uplands, S. W. On this side of the river, some
beautiful situations for farms and plantations. The hills
rise with a most delightful ascent from the water's edge to
the height of forty or fifty feet; the woods open and hand-
some. The lands on the Mine river, reputed excellent.
Bottoms on the N. E. side the Missouri, uncommonly fine.
There is a flourishing settlement here. Being Sunday, the
good people were dressed out in their best clothes, and [34]
came in groups to the bank to gaze upon us, as we passed
by under sail. The sight was no doubt agreeable to them,

*" A considerable stream in Boone County takes its name from this rock —
Rocher Perc^ River, sometimes called Split Rock. — Ed.

48 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

and we were no less pleased at catching another glimpse of
civilization, after having for a time lost sight of it. We put
to shore at the farm of Braxton Cooper, a worthy man, who
has the management of the salt works." The settlement is
but one year old, but is already considerable, and increasing
rapidly; it consists of seventy-five families, the greater part
living on the bank of the river, in the space of four or five
miles. They are generally persons in good circumstances,
most of them have slaves. Mr. Cooper informed me that
the upland, back, is the most beautiful he ever beheld. He
thinks that from the mouth of the Missouri to this place,
the country for at least forty miles from the river, may bear
the character of rich woodland: the prairies forming but
trifling proportions. This place is two hundred miles up.
We inquired for the party of which we were in chase — they
had passed nineteen days before us.

Monday iph. Rain last night, but without lightning —
from this it is prognosticated that [35] the wind will continue
favourable to day. Set off with a fair wind, but the course
of the river became unfavourable. At half past seven, again
fair — continued under sail until twelve. Passed handsome
upland S. W. side, and the two Chareton rivers N. E. Had
to oppose in the course of the day some very difficult places
— the river extremely crooked. While the men were tow-
ing, they chased a she-bear into a hollow tree; we set about

** The Coopers were a Virginia family from Culpeper County, who had first
migrated to Kentucky. They arrived in Missouri in the autumn of 1807, when
Braxton, with his cousin Sarshall, settled at Hancock bottom, upon the north bank
of the Missouri, in St. Charies County. There they bought salt of Nathan Boone,
who described to them the Boone's Lick country. In the spring of 1810 they
removed their famiUes thither, and built Cooper's fort, nearly opposite Arrow
Rock Creek. During the War of 1812-15, Boone's Lick settlement suffered
greatly. The Coopers were leaders of the bands that pursued the Indians.
Braxton was shot by them (September, 1814) while cutting logs for a new house.
Sarshall was shot in his fort, the following spring. These facts are foxmd in the
archives of the Wisconsin Historical Library, Draper MSS., 22 S, 118, 142; 23 S,
119, 125. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s journal 49

chopping the tree, while several stood with guns presented
to the hole at which she had entered, about twenty feet up.
In a short time she put out her head and shoulders, but on
receiving a volley, instantly withdrew. The chopping was
renewed; madam Cufif again appeared, and was saluted as
before, but without producing the same effect, as she lei-
surely crawled down the tree, and attempted to make off,
amidst the shouts of fifteen or twenty barbarians, who were
bent on the destruction of a mother and her little family.
She was killed with the stroke of an axe, having been pre-
viously severely wounded. In the hollow sycamore, there
were found three cubs. At five, hoisted sail, and continued
until seven, having this day made twenty-eight [36] miles.
Towards evening, passed beautiful undulating hills, gently
sloping to the river. What charming situations for seats
and farms!

Tuesday i6th. Set off without wind — the river rising.
At eleven, the wind so much against us that we were obliged
to lie by. At three we continued our voyage, and as it was
resolved to tow, I set out with my rifle, expecting to meet
the boat at the head of a long bend. This is the first excur-
sion I have made into the country. I passed through the
bottom with great difficulty, on account of the rushes, which
grow as high as a man's head, and are matted with vines
and briars. The beauty of the upland in some degree com-
pensated. Clean and open woods, growth, oak, hickory,
&c; the grass beginning to appear green. Saw several deer,
and abundance of turkeys. We are now in a country which
abounds with game. I came late in the evening to the boat,
having been supposed lost in the woods. Our hunter had
been more successful than I, having killed a she-bear with
four cubs. The river very crooked in the course of this
day. — Passed some places of thin woods — not quite
prairie, on the bank of the river.

50 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

[37] Wednesday lyih. Breakfasted under sail. Passed
the Brand river, N. E. side. It is two hundred yards wide
at its mouth; very long, and navigable six or eight hundred
miles; takes its waters with the river Des Moines. The
traders who were in the habit of visiting the Mahas, six
hundred miles above this on the Missouri, were formerly
compelled to ascend this river in order to avoid the Kansas
Indians, who were then the robbers of the Missouri. There
is a portage of not more than a couple of days, from the
Grand river to the Mahas.

At the confluence on the lower side, there is a beautiful
situation. The bottom is a handsome prairie, which is seen
extending, for the first time on the Missouri, to the water's
edge, and about a mile in width: the upland then rises with
a gentle ascent, with here and there a few clumps of trees.
Immediately at the point of junction, there are about fifty
acres of well timbered land. Here is a delightful situation
for a village:" the distance about two hundred and fifty
miles from the mouth of the Missouri. There is some beau-
tiful country lying on the Grand river, but deficient in wood.
In fact, this river may almost be considered [38] the
boundary of the wooded upland on that side of the river.

Here the wind failed us. The Missouri very wide — a
large bar in the middle. The beautiful green hills of the
Little Osage in sight. But for the single defect of the dilapi-
dating banks of the Missouri, the country bordering on it,
thus far, would not be surpassed by any in the world.
Spring has already cast her green mantle over the land;
and the scenery every where assumes a more enlivened
appearance. After an arduous navigation, came this day
about twenty miles.

Thursday i8th. Heavy rain last night, accompanied by

" The town of Brunswick occupies this site, with a population of about one
thousand four hundred. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s journal 51

unusual thunder and lightning. Set off at six, weather
apparently clearing up. About ten, compelled by heavy
rain to put to shore until three, when we again shoved off,
came a few miles and encamped, N. E. side.

Friday igih. Continued our voyage at daylight, and
came through a long channel, between an island and the
shore. The wind S. E. but the course of the river such as
to disable us from profiting by it. A drizzling rain, and the
weather disagreeable. Wind favourable for an hour.
Passed handsome upland and [39] prairie S. W. side.
There was formerly a village of the Little Osage here, but
from the frequent attacks of the Ayuwas, they were com-
pelled to go higher up the river." The situation is fine.
At a distance, the deep green herbage on this open ground
had much the appearance of a wheat field. What a strange,
restless, discontented creature is man! When the arts of
civilization bloom around him, nothing is so pleasing as the
glimpse of the wild irregularities of nature; and yet place
him in the midst of the desert, and every object which re-
minds him of human ingenuity and industry, appears
supremely beautiful, and at once awakens all the affections
of his heart.

Encamped late, after having got through a channel with
considerable difficulty. The slowness with which we have
advanced for several days past, forms a contrast with
those which preceded. Water rising.

" The Iowa (A3Tiwas, Aiouetz) were a Siouan tribe first encountered by French
explorers in the state to which they have given name. This word lacked conso-
nant sounds, hence its great variations in spelling. The Iowa early became allied
with the Sauk and Foxes, and were thus hostile to the French power. They were
a fierce tribe, and raided widely from their villages on the Des Moines River.
Later, they traded with the English on the Mississippi. In 1808 a treaty was
made with them by which the first American post west of the Mississippi River
was erected — Fort Madison, which served in a measure to restrain their ravages.
There are now about three hundred Iowa Indians, upon reservations with the
Sauk and Foxes, in Kansas and Oklahoma. — Ed.

52 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

On Saturday the 20th, we had a cold disagreeable morn-
ing; the men completely drenched by the heavy rain which
fell last night. About six o'clock we hoisted sail, but the
wind served us only a short distance. The weather begin-
ning to clear up, we thought it [40] adviseable to put to
shore in order to dry our effects, which had suffered consid-
erably. On the S. W. there are some handsome rising hills.
We remained here until three o'clock, and then continued
our voyage on the N. E. side, along a beautiful tract of land,
covered with a great proportion of walnut, poplar, and
cotton-wood of enormous size. On entering a narrow chan-
nel, we espied at the upper end a large flock of pelicans
standing on a shoal ; we fired on them at the distance of two
hundred yards, and killed one. These birds are seen in
great numbers on the Missouri, but are shy. We daily kill
wild fowl, ducks, geese, brandt, &c. which, at this season
of the year ascend the river to breed. Their eggs are found
every moment on the sand bars.

Sunday 20th \i. e., 21st.]. A delightful morning, though
somewhat cool. Got under way early — passed through the
channel which we entered yesterday, and at the head of the
island, crossed to the S. W. side. Here we encountered several
difficult embarras, but not much current, in the river. After
breakfast I took my gun and ascended the hill. On the
opposite side, there is an extensive prairie bottom, apparently
four or five miles wide; and a level plain of [41] vast extent
stretching out on either hand, of fertile alluvial soil, as I
supposed, from the rich and luxuriant appearance of the
herbage. I remarked a curious contrast of the yellow
sward, which has remained unbumt, and the extensive
tracts of deep green, where the young grass of this spring
has sprung up unencumbered by the old. Beyond the
plain, the upland rises into irregular and abrupt elevations,
and appears in a thousand fantastic forms, but without

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 53

even a shrub, and covered with a thin coat of vegetation.
The winding river, with its islands, willow bordery, and
groves of cotton-wood trees, the whole scene in fact, had
something magnificent, though melancholy. I was re-
minded how much I must yet traverse before I can reach
the end of the voyage. On this side (S. W.) I found the
soil of the upland of an excellent quality, and, notwith-
standing the ravages of the fire, the marks of which are
every where to be seen, the woods, principally hickory, ash,
oak, and walnut, formed a forest tolerably close.

I did not return until about four in the evening; much
gratified with my excursion. We spent an hour and an half
this evening in passing [42] round a small point, the distance
of a few hundred yards. The current was so swift that oars
and poles could be of no service; we were therefore com-
pelled to grapple round the rocks, by carrying a cable ahead
and fastening it to some object, and then advancing a few
yards at a time. It is about half a mile across the river, its
usual width, and there is a strong current in the bend.
Such is the swiftness of the current that it is found necessary
to cross over at every point. The current being generally
very strong in the centre of the bends. This operation of
crossing and recrossing consumes much time. We en-
camped this evening above an encampment of Mr. Hunt,
which, according to some of the sagacious is but ten days
old. It is said, these woodsmen shew extraordinary skill
in determining the length of time that a camp has been
abandoned. I have heard of some, who possessed this
sagacity, in a surprising degree; but on this occasion, I was
induced to believe that our augurs were deceived by their
hopes and wishes.

Monday zzd. We proceeded this morning until eleven
o'clock with the towing line or cordelle — the banks being
favourable. The hills [43] or bluffs are here about one

54 E^arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

hundred feet high, and rise abruptly from the river. The
wind from the S. S. W. becoming very strong, we were com-
pelled to lie by until three o'clock. These were usually irk-
some moments to Lisa. The men composed themselves to
sleep, or strolled along the beach, or engaged in "whetting
the brand,' ' or smoking a pipe. I usually preferred a ram-
ble with my gun when I could escape from the boat. I had
also had the precaution to provide myself with some well
selected books; among the rest, Don Quixotte in Spanish;
and as Lisa who was a Spaniard by birth, and passionately
fond of this work, took pleasure in reading, and hearing it
read, I availed myself of the opportunity of improving my
knowledge of a language, which will one day be important
to a citizen of the United States. Towards evening we
crossed to the N. E. side, and endeavoured to ascend be-
tween the shore and an island, but found a sand bar running
entirely across, at the upper end, so that we were obliged to
go back, and encamp nearly opposite the place of starting.

Tuesday 2jd. Very high wind this morning. Doubled
the island which had been the scene [44] of so much vexa-
tion. Endeavoured to proceed on the outside, but met
with so many difficulties, that we were compelled to cross
to the S. W. side. Towed to Ibar's channel and island —
then re-crossed to the N. E. side, and found ourselves about
two miles above our last night's encampment. Remained
here until three, when the wind somewhat abated its vio-
lence. Having arrived opposite the Wizzard's island,"
(L'isle du Sorcier) crossed over and encamped. The super-

** Lewis and Clark, in their original manuscripts, designate the channel which
Brackenridge calls ' ' Ibar's, ' ' as Eue-bert, probably a form of the French name
Hubert. Biddle, in his edition of Lewis and Clark, makes this Eau-beau or
Clearwater. James (edition of Long's expedition) has Chney au Barre. This is
now curiously contracted into Sniabar, which is applied to two creeks in Lafayette
County. Wizard's Island is mentioned only by Brackenridge, and has been swept
away in the changes of the river bed. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s youmal ^^

stitious boatmen believe that a wizzard inhabits this island;
they declare that a man has been frequently seen on the
sand beach, at the point, but that he suddenly disappears,
on the approach of any one. These few days have been in
a manner lost, from contrary winds, and bad weather.
Heavy rain this evening — Moschetoes begin to be trouble-
some, for the first time during our voyage.

Wednesday 2 ph. Attempted a ripple this morning, and
were driven back five times — we had once got within half
the boat's length of being through; the oars and poles were
insufficient; ten of our men leaped into the water with the
cordelle, while the rest of us exerted ourselves with the pole :
and thus by perseverance became [45] conquerors. This
ripple, like all others of the Missouri, is formed by high
sand bars, over which the water is precipitated, with con-
siderable noise. This bar has been formed within two or
three years. The bend formerly almost impassible from
the swiftness of the current, is now tolerable. There is sel-
dom any great current on both sides; the falling in of the
banks indicate the current to be there. — Wherever the river
has a wider channel than ordinary, there is usually a sand
bar in the middle. This extraordinary river sometimes
pursues a straight course for ten or fifteen miles, then sud-
denly turns to every point of the compass: In other places,
the whole volume of its waters is compressed into a channel
of two or three hundred yards: again suddenly opening to
the width of one, or even two miles, with islands and sand
bars scattered through the space.

Passed a canoe with four men, who had wintered up the
Kansas, about five hundred miles: they had beaver, and
other furs. They could give no information respecting
Hunt's party: — we conclude he must have passed that
river before they came out of it.

[46] From the violence of the wind, which blew from the

56 Fjarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

N. W. our progress was so much impeded, that we were
compelled to lie by the greater part of the day. While in
the woods to-day, I saw a she-bear coming towards me fol-
lowed by two cubs, and, after waiting until she approached
within a sufficient distance, fired at her head; but, from too
much eagerness, the fault of young hunters, and which pre-
vents them from taking a deliberate aim, I missed her.
She soon disappeared with her family. I am well aware
that I might on this occasion have availed myself of the
privilege of the traveller; but by this proof of self-denial the
reader will be disposed to give some credit for veracity, a
point in which travellers too often fail. While our old
hunter Castor was out, he saw, as he declared to us, a while
turkey^ but was not able to kill it. But I am rather inclined
to think it is, (for hunters have nearly the same privileges as
travellers,)

Rara avis in terns, nigroque simmillima cygno.

The wild turkey is invariably black: although, it is possible,
that by some lusus natures, [47] there may be white. A single
deer, or buffaloe, I am well assured has been met with of
this colour.

Thursday 2ph. The contrary winds still continue to-day,
but its violence somewhat abated, so as to enable us to pro-
ceed on our voyage tolerably well. The unwearied exer-
tions of Lisa suffered no moment to remain unemployed,
and his ingenuity was continually exerted in contriving
means of overcoming the difficulties which were constantly
presenting themselves. About eleven o'clock we came in
sight of Fort Osage, at the distance of three miles on the
bluff, and a long stretch of the river before us. We had
now come three hundred miles upon our voyage. And for
the last hundred, had seen no settlement or met with any
one, except a few traders or hunters who passed us in canoes.
With the exception of a few spots where the ravages of fire

i8ii] Brackenridge's yournal 57

had destroyed the woods, we passed through a continued
forest presenting the most dreary aspect. The under-
growth generally so thick that I had little inclination to
penetrate far beyond the margin of the river. And more-
over, to one not well acquainted with the nature of the [48]
ground, it is no difficult matter to become entangled and
lost. Our approach once more to the haunts of civilization,
to a fort where we should meet with friends, and perhaps
find a temporary resting place, inspired us with cheerful-
ness. The song was raised with more than usual glee; the
can of whiskey was sent round, and the air was rent with
shouts of encouragement. The boatmen, from the severe
duty which they had already performed, were much rejoiced
at the circumstance of their having reached a point in the
voyage. We stopped a short time about a mile below the
fort, where Mr. Audrain a settler, had begun to clear a
piece of ground for a farm. I was acquainted with this
gentleman in boyhood, but this was the first place in which I
had met him for many years." On approaching the fort
we were met by a number of the Osage Indians of both
sexes, and of all ages. They kept pace with us, strung along
the bank, apparently attracted by curiosity. They were
objects rather disgusting; generally of a filthy greasy appear-
ance, the greater part with old dirty buffaloe robes thrown
over their shoulders; some with their brawny limbs exposed,
[49] and no covering but a piece of cloth girded round their
loins. The women appeared, if possible, still more filthy
than the men. A few were daubed with red, and adorned
with broaches and beads. The men carried their bows,
guns, or war clubs, in their hands. In point of size, they
are larger than the whites. The curiosity which these peo-
ple manifested in running after us in a crowd, to gape and

" For notice of Audrain, an early French republican of Pittsburg, see Andr6
Michaux's Travels, vol. iii of our series, note 9. — Ed.

58 Karly Western Travels [Vol. 6

stare, struck me as a characteristic very different from the
Indians east of the Mississippi, who observe studied in-
difference as to every thing strange which transpires around
them.

On landing at the fort, on a very rocky shore, a soldier
under arms, who waited for us at the water side, escorted
Mr. Lisa and myself to the fort, where we were politely
received by the commanding officer. While Mr. Lisa was
transacting some business, accompanied by Mr. Sibly, the
factor, and an interpreter, I went to deliver a pipe to sans
Oreille ^^ (a warrior and a principal man of this tribe,)
sent him by general Clark. He received us [50] sitting on
a mat, surrounded by a number of young men, who appeared
to treat him with great respect, and to receive with appro-
bation every thing he said. He ordered his cook, or herald,
(for every great man among these Indians has a domestic
of this description,) a bushy headed, ill-looking fellow, to
bring us a dish of homony. After having eaten of this, the
pipe was sent round. I then presented him the pipe,
which was handsomely decorated with ribbands and beads
of various colours, and told him that it was given at the
request of general Clark, and that it was intended as proof
of the esteem and consideration in which he was held not
only by the general himself, but by all the Americans. He
replied ''that he was pleased with this proof of general
Clark's good will towards him, that he was the friend of the
Americans. He declared that he had done much to pre-
serve a proper respect towards us, but that there were many
foolish people amongst the Osages who thwarted his meas-
ures, but that every man of sense approved of his conduct."
This man though not a chief, is evidently intriguing to be
the head of his tribe, and at this time possesses much influ-

" Literally, "without ears;" a name given to him in consequence of his being
unwilling to listen to the advice of the sober part of the people. — Brackenridge.

i8ii] Brackenridge' 5 'Journal 59

ence with [51] them: the hereditary chief, young White
Hairs, has but little to entitle him to respect from his own
character, being extremely young, and of a gentle dispo-
sition; he is however supported by the reputation of his
father who was a great warrior and a good man. Sans
Oreille^ as is usual with the ambitious amongst these people
is the poorest man in the nation ; to set the heart upon goods
and chattels being thought to indicate a mean and narrow
soul: he gives away every thing he can get, even should he
rob or beg, to procure it — and this, to purchase popularity.
Such is ambition ! Little know they of this state of society,
who believe that it is free from jealousies, from envy, detrac-
tion, or guilty ambition. No demagogue — no Cataline
ever used more art and finesse, or displayed more policy
than this cunning savage. The arts of flattery, and bribery,
by which the unthinking multitude is seduced, are nearly
the same every where, and the passion for power, and dis-
tinction, seems inherent in human nature. It is not in the
savage state that we can expect to meet with true liberty,
any more than in settled hereditary aristocracy or monarchy:
it is only in a republican government like ours of [52] a
civilized people where information is generally diffused.

The fort is handsomely situated, about one hundred feet
above the level of the river, which makes an elbow at this
place, giving an extensive view up and down the river. Its
form is triangular, its size but small, not calculated for more
than a company of men. A group of buildings is formed
by the factory, suttler's house, &c. The place is called
*'Fire prairie." It is something better than three hundred
miles from the mouth of the river in lat. 38°. 40'. The
lodges of the Little Osage, sixty in number, are within gun
shot of the fort; but they are about to remove their village
to a prairie, three miles off. Their lodges are of a circular
form, not more than ten or fifteen feet in diameter, con-

6o Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

structed by placing mats, made of coarse rushes, over forks
and poles.

All three of the Osage bands, together with some Kansas,
were lately encamped here for the purpose of trading; to
the number of fifteen hundred warriors. The officer in-
formed me, that about ten days ago, serious apprehensions
had been entertained from them. A war party, of about
two hundred, having scalped a few [53] women and children,
of the Ayuwas, their enemies, had returned so elated with
this exploit, that they insulted the people of the fort. One
of these warriors defied a centinel on his post; the centinel
was commanded to fire over his head, this producing no
effect, he was seized by a file of men, which he at first treated
with indifference, declaring, that if he were confined, he
would get some of the white men's bread; his tune was
changed, however, by a liberal application of the cat-o'-
nine-tails to his back. Great commotions amongst the
Indians were excited; they rushed forward with their arms;
but the soldiers no sooner paraded and made ready a few
pieces of cannon, than they thought proper to retreat.
They maintained a threatening attitude for some days, and
to give vent to their spite, killed a pair of fine oxen, belong-
ing to Mr. Audrain. The officer sent for the chiefs, and
told them, that unless two horses were given for the oxen,
he would instantly fire upon their village. This spirited
deportment had the desired effect, the chief complied, and
after some counciling, the pipe was smoked, and all matters
adjusted.

[54] These Indians are not to be compared to the nations
east of the Mississippi; although at war with most of their
neighbours, they are a cowardly race. One good trait,
however, deserves to be mentioned ; they have rarely, if ever,
been known to spill the blood of a white man : — When a
white hunter is found on their lands, they take away his

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal 6i

furs and his arms, he is then beaten with ramrods, and
driven off.

Mr. Sibly informed me, that he was just setting out on a
tour towards the Arkansas, to visit the salines on that river,
and also to the Kansas, and Platte, to see the Pani nation."

Thus far we have gained about one hundred miles upon
the party of Hunt — we are in good spirits, and will renew
the pursuit with augmented vigor.

[55] CHAPTER HI"

Orison of the Osages — Discontents in our party — News
of Hunt — An excursion — Arrival at the river Platte.

Friday, zjih \i. e., 26th] of April. Our situation was
rendered very uncomfortable last night by heavy rains; our
cabin, in spite of all our contrivances, was still in a bad
condition. In the morning, before daylight, we were
awakened by the most hideous bowlings I ever heard.
They proceeded from the Osages, among whom this is a
prevailing custom. On inquiry, I found that they were
unable to give any satisfactory reason for it; I could only
learn, that it was partly devotional, and if it be true, as is
supposed by some, that they offer worship only to the evil
spirit, the orison was certainly not unworthy of him. I
much doubt whether any more lugubrious and infernal

" The Pawnee (Pani) Indians were of Caddoan stock, being early encountered
by the French in the Missouri Valley. Lewis and Clark found them in four
separate bands upon Platte River, which continued to be their habitat until
removed to reservations in Indian Territory and Oklahoma. The Pawnee were a
large tribe, numbering ten to twelve thousand in 1832. In warhke qualities they
were somewhat deficient, and being frequently enslaved by their enemies, the term
' ' Pani ' ' became equivalent to Indian slave. See J. Long's Voyages, vol. ii of our
series, note 53. The Pawnee are steadily declining in population, there now
being but about six hundred. — Ed.

" Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series: Thomas Nuttall, note 8; Ramsay Crooks,
note 3; Robert ,McClellan, note 72; Kansas Indians, note 37; Oto Indians, note
42. — Ed.

62 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

wailings ever issued from Pandamonium itself. I was also
informed that it proceeded from another cause; when any-
one, on awaking in the morning, happens [56] to think of
a departed friend, or even of some lost dog or horse, which
has been prized by the owner, he instantly begins this-
doleful howl; no sooner is this heard than the whole
village, hark in, man, woman, and child, and at least a
thousand dogs, with a howling still more horrible. I
never had before, so good a conception of Virgil's fine de-
scription of that place of the infernal regions, set apart
for the punishment of the wicked.

It was eleven o'clock before we could leave this place.
The time was spent in procuring some oil-cloth to put over
our cabin, and in purchasing several articles of Indian trade
which the factor was disposed to sell. Having got every
thing ready, and feeling anxious to loose no time, we set
off, although the wind was blowing down the river with
great violence. After exerting ourselves to the utmost, for
an hour or two, we found it necessary to stop, after having
done little more than loose sight of the fort. After remain-
ing here a few hours, the wind abated sufficiently to
enable us to proceed on our voyage. Passed a small en-
campment of American hunters. Three men were sitting
before a fire, on the edge of the bank, [57] in the midst of
the rushes, having trodden them down for a few yards
around. Upon three slender forks, a few pieces of bark
were placed, which together with the boughs of the poplar
afforded some little shelter from the rain. The remains of
a deer were suspended to a tree, and several skins were
stretched out with the fleshy sides to the fire, for the purpose
of being dried. The Missouri is now, what the Ohio was
once, the Paradise of hunters. The upper part of the
river is still more pleasant, on account of the openness of
the plains, and the greater facility of pursuing the wild

i8ii] Brackenridge* s 'Journal 63

animals, which exist in numbers almost incredible. We
found the navigation more easy this evening, from the state
of the river, than it has been for several days past. We
were enabled to make nine miles, chiefly under oars —
weather disagreeably cool.

We have now passed the last settlement of whites, and
probably will not revisit them for several months. This
reflection seemed to have taken possession of the minds of
all. I almost repented of having undertaken this voyage,
without an object of suitable importance. Our men were
kept from thinking too [58] deeply by their songs and the
splashing of the oars, which kept time with them. Lisa
himself seized the helm, and gave the song," and at the close
of every stanza, made the woods ring with his shouts of

" The patron usually sings the first couplet, the chorus is then sung by the
whole; the songs are very trifling, but the tunes not disagreeable. The following
are some verses of a favorite song: —

Derri^re chez nous, il y a un etang,

Ye, ye ment:

Trois canards s'en vons baignans,

Tous du long de la rivifere,

Legerement ma bergfere,

Legferement, ye ment.

Trois canards s'en vons baignans.
Ye, ye ment:

Le fis du roi s'en va chassant,
Tous du 16ng de la rivifere.
Legferement ma berg^re,
Legerement, ye ment.

Le fis du roi s'en va chassant,
Ye, ye ment:

Avec son grand fusil d' argent,
Tous du long de la rivifere,
Legerement ma bergfere
Legerement, ye ment.
&c. &c.

— BRACKENiaDGE.

Comment by Ed. A translation of this boating song is given in Bradbury's
Travels, vol. v of our series, p. 40.

64 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

encouragement. The whole was intermixed, with short
and pithy addresses to their fears, their hopes, or their
ambition. Hunt and his party, were at least eighteen days
before us. In the distance of three hundred [59] miles
we had gained five days on him. By great exertions, we
might overtake him at the little Cedar island which was
six hundred miles further. We should then be safe. For
my part I felt great solicitude to overtake him, for the sake
of the society of Mr. Bradbury, a distinguished naturalist
with whom I had formed an acquaintance at St. Louis,
and who had accompanied Mr. Hunt for the purpose of
pursuing his researches in natural history on the Missouri.
In the society of this gentleman, I had promised myself
much pleasure, as well as instruction; and indeed, this
constituted one of the principal motives of my voyage —
there was also in the same company, a young gentleman
of the name of Nuttal, engaged in similar pursuits — my
apprehensions with respect to Mr. Hunt, were not such
as Lisa entertained; but, I was well aware that there ex-
isted a reciprocal jealousy and distrust. Hunt might sup-
pose, that if Lisa overtook him, he would use his superior
skill in the navigation of the river to pass by him, and (from
the supposition that Hunt was about to compete with him
in the Indian trade) induce the Sioux tribes, through whose
territory we had to pass for the [60] distance of six hundred
miles, to stop him, and perhaps pilkge him. Lisa had
strong reasons, on the other hand, to suspect that it was
Hunt's intention to prevent us from ascending the river;
as well from what has already been mentioned, as from
the circumstance of his being accompanied by two traders,
Crooks and M'Clelland, who had charged Lisa with being
the cause of their detention by the Sioux, two years before;
in consequence of which they had experienced considerable
losses. The quarrel which took place between these two

i8ii] Brackenridge^ s 'Journal 65

traders and the Sioux was the principal cause of their pres-
ent inimical temper to the whites. I fully believed, how-
ever, that if we could unite our parties, we should present
so formidable an appearance, that the Indians would not
think of incommoding us. The conduct of the Sioux is
governed by the same motives as those of the barbarous
tribes of the Nile. They are unwilling to let the traders
pass up the river, and carry supplies to the Arikaras, Man-
dans, and other tribes at war with them; and their country
affording few objects for the trader beside the buffaloe
robe, they are tempted to pillage, or impose terms upon
the trader, which [61] are almost as injurious. Thus much,
that the reader may enter into our feelings; at least form
an idea of the anxiety we experienced in the pursuit of the
party before us.

Now removed beyond the verge of the frontier, not mere-
ly out of my country, but almost in another world; for,
considered in reality, and not according to that imaginary
ownership, which civilization has invented, I was in a for-
eign land. Thus abstracted, thus removed from my coun-
try, I seemed to look back as from an eminence, and fancied
that, I contemplated it, with more accuracy than I could,
while cherished, and protected in its bosom. I heaved a
sigh, when I reflected that I might possibly never see it
again. I felt a thousand affections, linked to the cords
of the heart, of which I had not been aware. These things
are salutary thought I, as they teach a man to know him-
self. Should I return in safety, the recollection of these
little incidents, will afford pleasure to myself and to others:
and, should my bones be deposited on some dreary spot,
far from my home and the haunts of civilized man, it is yet
certain, that there is no place however distant in this quar-
ter, where I may [62] be buried, but will in time, be sur-
rounded by the habitations of Americans; the spot will be

66 Rarly Western Travels jyol. 6

marked, it will be approached with respect, as containing
the remains of one of the first to venture into these distant
and unfrequented regions.

Saturday 27th. After a long continuance of bad weather,
we are again somewhat favoured: this is a delightful morn-
ing though cool. At daylight we proceeded on our voy-
age, and about six o'clock had a light breeze from the east.
Passed Vincent's island, above which the river is extremely
narrow; the highlands on the S. W. side. About eleven
o'clock the sun shone out warm and pleasant, the wind
died away. Shortly after this we met a large party of traders,
in two canoes lashed together, and a platform raised upon
them, constituting what is called a raft. This was heavily
laden with buffaloe robes. They had come from the river
a Jaque, on the country of the Yanktons, the nearest tribe
of the Sioux, where they had remained all winter; they
found the Indians peaceably disposed." The party of
Hunt had been passed by them five days before, at the little
Nimaha, and proceeds slowly. The traders [63] being in-
formed of the rate at which we came, were of opinion
that we should overtake them before they would be able
to reach the river Platte, three hundred miles above us.
Our party were much animated by this news.

We passed, towards evening Benito's island, and sand
bar, so called from a trader of that name having been robbed
of his peltry, by a party of the Ayuwa tribe; and not con-
tent with this, the trader with four men in his employment,
were forced to carry enormous burdens of it on their backs
to the river des Moines. Instances of such insults were
formerly not uncommon; several spots have been shewn
me where the like acts have been committed, accompanied

^^ River h. Jaque (Jacque) is the present James or Dakota River, a large
affluent of the Missouri, in South Dakota. For the Yankton Sioux, who lived
on this river, see Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series, note 55. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge*s yournal 67

even with murder. Having approached within two leagues
of the Kansas river, we encamped. Large sand bars now
make their appearance at every point of the river; some of
them a mile or two in length, and a quarter of a mile in
width in the widest place; but they are uniformly in the
shape of a crescent. It is very pleasant to walk on them;
towards the bank there is a border of willows and young
cotton- wood trees; the rest is a smooth sand beach.

[64] Sunday 28th. A cool morning — somewhat foggy on
the river. A light breeze from the east, but not sufficient to
enable us to carry sail. Passed Highland, N. E. side, with
some rocks on the shore; we are constantly delighted with
the gentle hills, or rather elevated upland, of the Missouri.
In this part of the river deer are very numerous; while
out this morning I counted thirty sporting on a sand bar.

This morning we passed the Kansas, a large river, which
enters from the S. W. side. The ground is low and flat
at its mouth, and covered with a profusion of willows;
this tree is observed to become more abundant than below,
but the size is very smaU. The Kansas takes its rise in
the open plains between the Platte and the Arkansas;
and passes through a country almost devoid of wood. The
patron of our boat informs me, that he has ascended it
upwards of nine hundred miles, with a tolerable naviga-
tion. The Kansas tribe live in the country through which
it passes. It has a number of considerable tributary
streams.

In the evening we passed the little river Platte, navi-
gable with canoes fifty or sixty miles, and said to abound
with beaver. We [65] encamped near a mile above it, having
made about fifteen miles.

In the course of this day, we find the river, in most places,
extremely narrow, and the sand bars very extensive.

Monday 2gth. Somewhat cloudy this morning — A

68 "Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

light breeze from the S. E. At seven, breakfasted under
sail. At nine, reached a beautiful island, called Diamond
island, fifteen miles above 'the Kansas. From this, there
is a long reach of six or eight miles. The weather is fine
— the breeze still continuing.

At three o'clock we had made twenty-four miles. The
wind, from the change of the course of the river, could not
serve us. We lost two hours in passing one of the most
difficult places I have seen on the river: after which, we
had a fair wind again, until night.

Passed in the course of this day, some beautiful country
on both sides, the upland chiefly S. W. and a greater pro-
portion of prairie than we have yet seen. The river gen-
erally narrow, and the sand bars of great extent.

Having made about thirty miles, we encamped a short
distance below Buffaloe island, opposite a range of hills,
and at the upper end of a [66] long view. During the
whole of the day, we saw astonishing quantities of game
on the shore; particularly deer and turkies. The bufifaloe
and elk are not yet seen.

Tuesday ^oth. Last night there was much thunder and
lightning, but little rain. At day light embarked with a
favourable wind, which continued until seven, when, from the
course of the river, the wind failed us for an hour. The
river extremely crooked. Mr. Lisa and myself went on
shore, and each killed a deer. There were great num-
bers of them sporting on the sand bars. There are great
quantities of snipes, of a beautiful plumage, being a curious
mixture of dove color, and white. I saw one of a different
kind, which was scarlet underneath the wings.**

At two o'clock we hoisted sail at the beginning of a long
reach, to the great joy of the whole company. High prai-

^' Apparently these were the grey and red-bellied snipe (macrorhampus griseus
and scolopacetts). — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge's Journal 69

ries S. W. side — continued under sail through another
long reach, and had a view of the old Kansas village, at
the upper end of it. It is a high prairie; smooth waving
hills, perfectly green, with a few clumps of trees in the
hollows. It was formerly a village of the Kansas nation.
There [67] are many of these deserted, villages, on the Mis-
souri, with hardly any traces but the different path-ways
along the side of the hills, and down to the river. There
is a melancholy feeling in viewing these seats, once the
abode of intelligent beings, now lonely and silent. But
for the scarcity of wood this would be a delightful situa-
tion for a town." At this place, the bend of the river ren-
dered the wind unfavourable. Continued under oars about
three miles further, having in the course of this day made
thirty-three miles.

Wednesday, ist May. Very high wind all last night.
Embarked this morning about daylight, and continued under
sail until six o'clock. Upland N. E. side, thinly timbered.
It may be remarked, that the hills of the Missouri are not
so high as those of the Ohio, seldom rocky, and rise more
pleasantly from the water's edge. Continued under sail
until eleven, when we were brought up by a considerable
bend in the river. Passed St. Michael prairie, a handsome
plain in front, with variegated hills in the back ground,
and but little wood. At two o'clock we came to a very
great bend in the river, but did not get through until eve-
ning. The river [68] from being narrow, changes to an un-
usual width, and very shallow. We were detained about
an hour, having been so unlucky as to run aground.

Saw but one or two deer to day, as we approached
the open country their numbers wQl be found to diminish,
there being no thickets to shelter them. They are said to
lessen perceptibly from Nodawa river upwards.

" About the site of the present dty of Leavenworth, Kansas. — Ed.

'JO Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

In the evening, the weather, which has been for some
days cloudy, cleared up, and the wind abated entirely:
the Missouri and its scenery appeared in their natural
state. A calm sky and a placid stream, which harmonize
with every other object of nature. The river is falling fast,
approaching to a low stage of water — came to-day twenty-
seven miles.

Thursday 2d. Embarked at daylight, the river un-
ruffled by a breeze; the birds, as if rejoicing that the strife
of the elements had ceased, tuned their sweetest notes.

At seven o'clock, breakfasted opposite some bluffs, N. E.
side. A very large mass appeared at no distant period,
to have slipped into the river, leaving a clay precipice fifty
or sixty feet high. A little above, there are rocks of free-
stone [69] at the edge of the water. Below this place,
there is an extensive prairie, partly river bottom, and partly
upland, with a considerable rivulet passing through it.
What a delightful situation for a farm, or even a town!
Description of such a country as this, can give no idea of
its peculiar character. The hills, or bluffs, begin to appear,
thinly wooded with dwarf trees, principally oak or ash.

In the evening we reached Nodowa channel, on the N. E.
side, which is about sixty yards in width, the island bor-
dered with willow, but on the main land there is an open
wood, chiefly the cotton tree. The rushes are now seldom
seen, and the variety of trees evidently diminish. This
part of the country is very abundant in deer.

Friday ^d. A delightful sunny morning. As usual we
set off to-day at day-break. Not a moment of our time is
lost: we stop half an hour at breakfast; about the same
length of time for dinner, and continue late at night. It
is by thus taking less time for repose, the skill of Lisa in en-
countering the currents and difficulties of the navigation,
and the continuing our voyage during the contrary winds,

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal j\

[70] that we gain on the party of Hunt. But our Canadians
are beginning to feel the effects of this effort : they not only
make greater exertions, but continue employed longer than
usual by several hours in the day. It sometimes happens
that during the prevalence of a favourable wind, the veer-
ing course of the river suddenly renders it directly con-
trary; it therefore becomes necessary to make every possible
exertion for a few miles in doubling the point, before we
can again catch the favoring breeze. By this exertion we
are all sometimes nearly exhausted. The strength of our
men begins to fail, and sometimes murmurs escape their
lips, in spite of every reason that can be urged.

About noon passed the wintering ground of .Crooks and
M'Clelland, where there are some log huts. Here they
joined the party of Hunt to proceed up the river. This is
four hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of the Missouri.
Here these men must have led the most solitary lives, with
no companions but a few hunters and an occasional Indian
visitor. Their chief amusement consisted in hunting the
deer, or traversing the plains. M'Clelland was one of
Wayne's runners, and is celebrated for his [71] courage and
uncommon activity. The stories related of his personal
prowess, border on the marvellous. Crooks is a young
Scotchman, of an enterprising character, who came to this
country from the trading associations in Canada.

After passing this place we came in sight of the S. W. side,
more elevated than any we have yet seen: in some places
covered with wood, chiefly dwarf oak; but in others entirely
bare, or overgrown with shrubs. The lands on the opposite
side are fine. Towards evening a breeze springing up, we
hoisted sail, and continued four or five miles. Passing along
a large prairie, in the hollow of the land in the S. W. and
after doubling the woody point with our oars and poles,
encamped at the commencement of another prairie. Here

72 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

there is not a shrub to the abrupt edge of the bank, and
the bottom stretches from the river at least a mile wide,
covered with dried grass of a very luxuriant growth. From
the first glance its yellowish appearance, is not unlike that
of ripe oats. This is another object to remind us of the
industry of man.

[72] Saturday ph. Heavy rain last night, and this morn-
ing drizzling. Passed the extensive lowland prairie, along
which the men were able to walk with facility, and drag
the boat along with the cordelle. At ten o'clock passed an
encampment of Hunt, where our augurs once more set to
work to find out the length of time which has elapsed since
he was here. After making about twenty miles, with rather
disagreeable navigation, we encamped some distance above
the Nimaha and Tarkio creeks.'^

This evening, which was damp and chilly, while warming
myself at the fire, I overheard, with much chagrin, some
bitter complaints on the part of the men. These discon-
tents were not a little fomented by some Thersites of the
party, who took advantage of the state of mind arising from
their sufferings. "It is impossible for us," said they, **to
persevere any longer in this unceasing toil, this over-strained
exertion, which wears us down. We are not permitted a
moment's repose; scarcely is time allowed us to eat, or to
smoke our pipes. We can stand it no longer, human nature
cannot bear it; our bourgeois has no pity on us." I endeav-
oured to quiet their minds, by representing [73] to them the
importance of the object for which we were exerting our-
selves, the safety of their lives probably depended on it:
that great exertions, it is true, had been made, but that we
had already overcome the most difficult part of the navi-

** Great Nemaha River, in southeastern Nebraska, and Big Tarkio River in
northwestern Missouri, empty into the Missouri River nearly opposite to each
other. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge's Journal 73

gation; that on approaching the open country, we might
expect to be carried by the wind : that the weather was now
becoming warmer and more pleasant, and the navigation
less arduous, as they could diversify their labours, when
there would be no wind, with the pole, the oars, or by the
cordelle, at this time, little more than a promenade along
the edge of the prairie, or the smooth sand bars. I ex-
horted them to cease these complaints, and go to work cheer-
fully, and with confidence in Lisa, who would carry us
through every difficulty. These admonitions had some
effect, but were not sufficient to quell entirely the prevail-
ing discontent.

Sunday ^th. Passed an encampment of Hunt this morn-
ing. The sun shone out, but the air was cold — wind from
N. E. but not so hard as to form any great obstacle. In
the evening hailed two men descending in a bark canoe;
they had been of Hunt's party, and had left him on [74] the
2d of May, two days above the Platte, at Boyer's river. He
had had a fair wind for several days, and ascended with
great rapidity. This information came very unseasonably,
and will tend to dishearten our men. — It thus appears,
that we have not gained upon them as much as was ex-
pected.

The weather very fine throughout the day, encamped in
the evening at the upper end of a handsome prairie; oppo-
site a large sand bar.

Monday 6th. About ten this morning, passed a river
called Nis-na-botona, after which there are some long reaches
very favorable for sailing. At four o'clock arrived at the
little Nimeha, the course of the river here is for a consid-
erable distance nearly N. E." — Wind being N. W. were

**The present Nishnabotna River, flowing nearly parallel to the Missomi
River in Iowa and northwestern Missouri. The word is said to signify, "canoe-
making river. ' ' Little Nemaha River is a western affluent in a Nebraska county
of the same name. — Ed.

74 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

enabled to hoist sail, but having proceeded about a mile, a
squall suddenly springing up from the N. we were com-
pelled with all despatch, to take in sail, and gain the shore
S. W. side. Here a dreadful storm raged during the re-
mainder of the evening, and the greater part of the night,
our boat lay between the shore and a number of trees which
had fallen into the river, and thus sheltered us from the
waves.

[75] Our encampment is at the edge of a large prairie,
but with a fringe of wood along the bank of the river. The
greater part of the country, particularly on the S. W. side,
is now entirely open. The new grass is at this time about
four inches high.

Tuesday ph. Continued our voyage at daylight, the
weather fine, though somewhat cool. Wind still continues
N. W. Passed an island and sand bar, and towed along
a prairie S. side for nearly a mile. This prairie is narrow,
bounded by hills which are somewhat broken and stony.

At ten o'clock arrived at L' isle a beau soleil; the wind
here became so high that we proceeded with great diffi-
culty." In the evening, arriving at the head of the island,
were compelled to put to shore. Mr. Lisa seized this oppor-
tunity to replace his mast, by a young oak which he found
in the wood along the shore. All hands were set to work
on it, in order that it might be ready the next day. This
was rendered necessary on account of the old one having
given way.

I took this opportunity of making an excursion into the
country — ascended the hills or [76] bluffs, which, though
steep, are not much more than two hundred feet above the
level of the river, and command prospects of great extent.
I could see the meandering course of the stream, between

** Lewis and Clark translated this term, and called the island "Fair-sun." It
is now known simply as Sun Island. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenrtdge* s youmal j^

the two ranges of hills, or more properly of high land, for
thirty or forty miles. Some of these hills are cut into preci-
pices forty or fifty feet high, without any appearance of
stone. It is a light yellow colored earth, with a considerable
mixture of sand. There is an immense extent of prairie on
both sides of the river. The hills are not always abrupt,
but in many places rise gently, and are extremely beautiful.
The river hereabout is very crooked: in following the hills,
along which there is an Indian path, I could go to a point
within view, which will most probably be our place of en-
campment to-morrow night.

On my return to the boat, killed some pigeons and wild
ducks, and saw a flock of turkies. Lisa and his men con-
tinued at work by torch light until late at night, every man
who could assist was busily employed.

Wednesday 8th. Last night having finished our mast, we
had it put up this morning before day, and at day break set
ofif on our voyage. Weather [77] cool, but no wind, and
the sun apparently regaining his empire.

Passed through a country in the course of this day, chiefly
open, with very little wood. The river very wide: in one
place it appeared to me two miles. Encamped at the fall-
ing in banks, or grand eboulment. Wind has entirely abated.
In nearly all the bends there are a great many fallen trees,
the bank being acted upon by the current, appears to have
fallen in with every thing growing upon it. We often pass
between these trees and the shore.

Thursday gth. Set off at day light — continued a short
distance under sail with a light breeze.

Several of the men are sick; one has a pleurisy, and others
slight fevers and coughs, from frequent exposure in the
water.

There appear to be no hills or bluffs on the N. E. side,
the whole distance to the Platte.

76 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

Encamped some distance above a hill, called V oeil aujery
from an Indian chief who was scaffolded here some years
ago.^'

Friday loth. A dreadful storm raged during the whole
of last night. Set off this morning under sail, in expecta-
tion of reaching the Platte [78] before twelve, but in the
course of an hour it failed us, and changed to N. W. At
ten, it became so violent that we were compelled to put to
shore, where we remained until towards evening, and then
attempted to proceed, but finding the wind too strong,
again landed and encamped, having passed the mouth of
the Platte. At the mouth of this river there is so great a
number of bars and small islands, that its entrance is scarcely-
perceptible. It enters by a number of channels or mouths:
the color of its waters is the same with that of the Missouri.
The country hereabouts, is entirely open, excepting in some
spots along the river, where there are groves of cotton- wood,
and on the hills a few scattered dwarf oaks.

Saturday nth. The wind continues too high to proceed.
This morning we advance about three miles, and encamp
until near noon — very cold.

Set off with my gun to take a walk into the country.
Traversed the prairie which had been burnt, and reached
the high land about three miles distant; the ground rises
gradually to the height of about two hundred feet, and then
assumes an irregular surface. The other side of [79] the
Missouri appears extremely bare. I wandered towards the
Platte, or rather to the point of the upland between this
river and the Missouri, which commands a very extensive
prospect. I discovered a great extent of open country,
grounds gently rising, with a soil every where extremely rich.

*• Lewis and Clark met hereabouts an Oto chief whom they called Iron Eyes.
There is a bluff on the river still called Iron Eye Hill. On the Siouan custom of
scaffolding the dead, see Bradbury's description of a Mandan cemetery. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge s "Journal yy

The Platte is full of islands and sand bars, and appears as
wide as the Missouri. On my return, I saw several Indian
mounds.

On reaching camp I found that the wind had abated, and
that the river was rising fast.

The river Platte is regarded by the navigators of the Mis-
souri as a point of as much importance, as the equinoctial
line amongst mariners. All those who had not passed it
before, were required to be shaved, unless they could com-
promise the matter by a treat. Much merriment was in-
dulged on the occasion. From this we enter what is called
the Upper Missouri. Indeed the change is perceptible and
great, for the open bare plains, now prevail. A close wood
is not to be seen, but the face of the land so varied as to be
pleasing and picturesque. The river Platte rises in the
same mountains, with the Missouri and is little short of
two [80] thousand miles in length, but affords little naviga-
tion, owing to the great number of shoals and quicksands
which its channel contains. Various Indian nations reside
upon it, the Missouris, Ottos, Panis, and others. This river
takes its rise with the Rio del Norte, and with the Colerado
of California, and flows through an open country like the
Missouri.

CHAPTER IV"

Council Bluffs — Blackbird Hills — Maha villages — Dis-
appointment in not overtaking Hunt — Floyd's Bluff.

Sunday i^th \i. e., 12th]. Weather pleasant — the river
rising rapidly; the drift wood descends in great quantities,
and the current seems to augment every moment. We were

'^ Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series: McClellan's (Crooks's) post, note 41;
Registre Loisel (L'Oiselle), note 105; Blackbird, notes 47 and 48; Omaha (Maha)
Indians, note 49; Big Elk, note 52; Ponca Indians, note 63; Sergeant Floyd, note
56.— Ed.

78 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

enabled to ascend the greater part of this morning with
the towing line.

[81] In the afternoon, some distance above the old Otto
village, S. W. side, I went on shore, and wandered several
miles through shrubby hills, and saw several elk and deer,
without being able to approach them. Towards evening I
entered a charming prairie, and of the richest soil. Followed
a rivulet untU it formed a lake in the river bottom, its banks
for six or eight feet a rich black earth. In pursuing the
upland I might have fallen upon the Missouri six miles
above, in the distance of a mile, the river forming here a
considerable bend. The prairies or meadows to the water's
edge, enabled us to continue the greater part of this day
with the line.

Monday i^th. Water falling — continued with the tow-
ing line. At ten, a fine breeze springing up, hoisted sail.
Passed the river a Boyer, and the houses of M'Clelland,
who formerly wintered here. Some woody country herea-
bouts; but that on the upland is very inferior, chiefly shrubby
oak. A short distance above this place we encountered a
very difficult and rapid current, but being luckily a little
aided by the sail, we passed tolerably well. We have now
reached the highest point to which settlements [82] will
probably extend on the western side for many years. In
the evening passed high clean meadows, called the Council
bluffs, from the circumstance of Lewis and Clark having
held a council with the Otto and Missouri Indians, when
ascending this river." It is a beautiful scene. Encamped
four miles above this place on a large sand bar. The Council
bluffs are not abrupt elevations, but a rising ground, covered
-with grass as perfectly smooth as if the work of art. They

*' The original Council Bluffs were on the left bank of the river, above Omaha,
very near the later site of Fort Calhoun, in Washington County, Nebraska. The
name was afterwards transferred to the Iowa city. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge's journal 79

do not exceed in height thirty or forty feet above the plain
below. On ascending, the land stretches out as far as the
eye can reach, a perfect level. The short grass, with which
the soil is covered, gives it the appearance of a sodded bank,
which has a fine effect, the scene being shaded by a few
slender trees or shrubs in the hollows. In the course of
this day found the river crooked and narrow : it appeared in
one place almost closed up by drift-wood and sawyers.

Tuesday i^h. Set off with a slight breeze — compelled
by heavy rain to put to shore for some hours; after which
continued under a fine breeze that lasted throughout the
day; but from [83] the winding course of the river we were
not much benefited by it.

At most of the points on the river, the timber, principally
cotton-wood, is large, and tolerably close, but the prairies
and upland are entirely bare of trees. The prairies compose
more than two-thirds of the margin of the stream — the
soil extremely rich: for the three first feet, generally a
light mould, another stratum is a deep black, almost ap-
proaching the colour of coal, but not hard or stiff; the lower
stratum is marie. I have no doubt but that these natural
meadows would yield .surprisingly. Encamped at the be-
ginning of a great bend of the river, twelve miles round,
and not more than three hundred paces across.

Wednesday i§th. Although the wind is favourable, it
was of no use to us, from the sudden turns of the river. At
twelve hoisted sail, and passed the Soldier's river, a small
stream.^' After doubling some points we came into a
reach of some extent; wind here became very violent, and
blew almost a tempest; with our sail reduced to half its
size we easily encountered the strongest current. The storm
at length became so serious that it was deemed imprudent

'• An Iowa affluent of the Missouri, the origin of whose name is apparently
not now known. — Ed.

8o Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

[84] to continue under way. The air was darkened by
clouds of sand, and we found ourselves at the upper end of
the reach, in the midst of sawyers and planters, our situa-
tion dangerous in the extreme. Nothing but our great
anxiety to force our voyage would have justified the running
such a risk. It was almost a miracle that we escaped. Had
our boat struck a sawyer she would have been thrown into
the trough of the sea, and we should inevitably have per-
ished. We fortunately, but not without great exertions,
escaped safely to the shore, where we remained until eve-
ning; the wind abating, proceeded a few miles further.

Thursday i6th. A tremendous storm of thunder and
lightning last night — being fortunately in a good harbor
we suffered but little. Were not able to get under way this
morning until late. A fine serene morning, strangely con-
trasted with the turbulence of last night. Came in sight of
the hills, S. W. every one bitterly regretting that the wind
of yesterday could not serve us here, where there is a view
of twelve miles up the river. There appears to reign an
unusual calm, the sky cloudless, [85] and the river as smooth
as a mirror. Words cannot convey what I feel, and it is
only the lover of nature that could understand me.

The points are tolerably wooded. At the upper end of
the long reach we saw an encampment of Hunt, where the
party seemed to have remained for several days, judging
from the quantity of wood burned, the grass trodden down
by frequent going and coming, and the bones of buffaloe
they had killed, which were strewed about. It also appeared
that oars had been made here. It is conjectured that this
was his encampment during the unfavorable weather we
experienced for several days, near the river Platte, and
against which we had to struggle so severely. If this be
the case, it is not more than six or seven days since Hunt
has left this place. Our men feel new animation on this

i8ii] Brackenridge's yournal 8i

unexpected turn of fortune. The rushes before described
are now rarely seen — the woods more free from under-
growth. Encamped before sunset on a sand bar below la
coupe a U Oiselle.

Friday iph. A charming morning — slight indication of
wind from the S. E. Passed la coupe a U Oiselle. This name
originated, in [86] the circumstance of a trader having made
a narrow escape, being in the river at the very moment that
this cut-off was forming. It had been a bend of fifteen miles
round, and perhaps not more than a few hundred yards
across; the gorge, which was suddenly cut through by the
river, became the main channel. This was effected in a few
hours.

While remaining a short time at a sand, bar in the river,
a curious phenomenon occurred ; the sand began to dissolve,
and every instant to diminish like the melting of snow, it
was thought prudent to embark immediately. This I am
informed is not unfrequent. Bars are sometimes formed
during the continuance of a single flood, but being princi-
pally of loose sand, without anything to unite, as soon as
the waters begin to rise again, are entirely carried off.

At ten passed a similar cut-off called la coupe a Jacque.
At twelve continued under sail, made several long reaches
— passed the Yellow banks, and encamped within a few
miles of the Black-bird hill. Throughout this day the river
border is chiefly wood.

Saturday i8th. A fine breeze S. W. At seven arrived
at the Black-bird hill. As this is [87] one of the curiosities
of the Missouri, a description may be amusing. It rises on
the common range to the height of four or five hundred feet.
The Missouri at its base, begins a strange winding course,
several times returning upon its steps, and at length coming
within nine hundred yards of where the hills first approach;
so that in a course of thirty miles the Black-bird hill is still

82 Fjurly Western Travels [Vol. 6

near us. It takes its name from a celebrated chief of the
Mahas, who caused himself to be interred on the top: a
mound has been erected on the pinnacle, with a branch stuck
in it, a flag was formerly attached to it. He was buried,
sitting erect on horse back; the reason which he gave for
choosing this spot, was that he might see the traders as
they ascended. This chief was as famous in his lifetime
amongst all the nations in this part of the world, as Tamer-
lane or Bajazet were in the plains of Asia; a superstitious
awe is still paid to his grave. Yet, the secret of his great-
ness was nothing more than a quantity of arsenic, which
he had procured from some trader. He denounced death
against any one who displeased him, or opposed his wishes:
it is therefore not surprising, that he, who held [88] at his
disposal the lives of others, should possess unlimited power,
and excite universal terror. The proud savage, whenever
this terrible being appeared, rendered the homage of a slave.
The gods and heroes of antiquity, were, perhaps, little better.
We may learn this lesson, that ignorant and savage man,
is most effectually ruled by fear, or superstitious awe; and
in comparison with these, other motives have but little force.

At four o'clock, got through the last bend, and hoisted
sail, with a fine wind — sailed along some hills, S. W. side,
and encamped amongst some cotton wood, in a low bottom.

Sunday igth. We continued our voyage this morning at
daylight where we remained with the hope of reaching the
Maha village in the course of the day. Here we entertained
sanguine hopes of overtaking the party of Hunt, and with
these hopes the spirits of our men, almost sinking under
extreme labor, were kept up; their rising discontents, the
consequences of which I feared almost as much as the en-
mity of the Indians, were by the same means kept down.
Shortly after starting we passed along some precipitous
bluffs, rising [89] from the edge of the water, and extending

i8ii] Brackenridge' s Journal 83

for a quarter of a mile. Some of them were faced with a
curious sand rock of variegated fantastic hues; at the first
glance resembling the decorations of a theatre. There were
mimic groves, the representation of castles, of towns, and
landscapes; on more attentive examination it was found that
this deception, was produced by the different colors and
shades of the rock.

We continued, with little interruption from the course of
the river, under sail until twelve o'clock, when we came in
sight of the trading houses near the village. We anxiously
looked towards the place, and endeavoured to descry the
party of Hunt ; but as we drew near we found, alas ! they were
not there. On landing we saw several traders, of whom
eager inquiries were made, who informed us that Hunt had
set off under sail ]our days before our arrival, and that he
must have ascended rapidly. This was calculated to de-
press our spirits not a little, being now on the borders of
the Sioux territory. To this disappointment was added the
unfriendly temper of those tribes; it seems they have learned
that a number of traders [90] are ascending the river, in
consequence of which, instead of going into the plains as
is usual at this season of the year, they are resolved to remain
on the river, with a determination to let no boats pass: that
they had lately murdered several white traders, and were
exceedingly exasperated at the conduct of Crooks and
M'Clelland. These gentlemen, who had set off for the Upper
Missouri, having been compelled by a party of the Sioux
to stop against their will, affected to be contented, and re-
quested that the warriors, excepting five or six, would go
and bring their tribes, in order to trade; they had no sooner
departed than the traders embarked all their effects, and
pushed into the stream; the Indians who had been left with
them were found by their companions tied. This conduct,
which was unavoidable, exasperated the nation very much,

84 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

and had produced a serious enmity, the consequences of
which we had great reasons to fear. From the intimation
of the traders, we were induced to believe that Hunt would
be glad that we should join his party, and that a sense of
the common danger would induce him to wait for us. It
was therefore deemed adviseable to despatch a messenger
[91] by land, who might overtake him at the Poncas village,
about two hundred miles further by water, and about three
day's journey by land. For this purpose a half Indian was
hired, and set off immediately in company with Charboneau.
As the wind was still favorable, and blowing fresh, we re-
solved not to lose a moment, and therefore set off without
seeing the Big Elk, the chief of the Maha village; a piece of
etiquette, which is never omitted without giving offence: a
present was left for him, with a talk, explaining the reasons
for our conduct. The village is situated about three miles
from the river, and contains about three thousand souls.

After having remained here but a few hours we again em-
barked, the day obscured with clouds, and the wind blowing
with great violence. The clouds of sand which are swept
from the sand bars, incommoded us considerably. Towards
evening, the wind having spent its fury, gradually died
away, and we continued under oars — the current gentle.
The scenery now undergoes an entire change; forests are
seen no more; the wooded portions of the river are com-
posed of small cotton- wood trees, whose slender [92] and
delicate growth have a much more beautiful appearance
than the huge giants on the lower part of the river. The
uplands look like old fields, and the bottoms are rich mead-
ows.

Shortly before sun-down the air became calm, and our dis-
turbed minds, (such is the effect upon our feelings of the
objects which surround us) appeared to grow composed as
the strife of the elements gave way to calmness and serenity.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s Journal 85

We had been suspended between hope and fear, but were
now disposed to think all would be well, and that Hunt
would gladly wait for us.

About a mile below our encampment we passed Floyd's
bluff and river, fourteen miles from the Maha village.
Sergeant Floyd was of the party of Lewis and Clark, and
was highly esteemed by them and his loss much regretted.
The place of his interment is marked by a wooden cross,
which may be seen by navigators at a considerable distance.
The grave occupies a beautiful rising ground, now covered
with grass and wild flowers. The pretty little river, which
bears his name, is neatly fringed with willow and shrubbery.
Involuntary tribute was paid to the spot, by the feelings even
of the most [93] thoughtless, as we passed by. It is several
years since he was buried here; no one has disturbed the
cross which marks the grave; even the Indians who pass,
venerate the place, and often leave a present or offering
near it. Brave, adventurous youth! thou art not forgotten
— for although thy bones are deposited far from thy native
home, in the desert- waste ; yet the eternal silence of the plain
shall mourn thee, and memory will dwell upon thy grave !

The appearance of the river is much changed — it con-
tinues a handsome width, with a diminished current. The
banks low, and the trees much smaller in size ; we now rarely
see a large tree. The bluffs and upland on the N. E. side,
are not high, and without any appearance of trees and shrubs.

Monday 20th. Passed at day light the great Sioux river,
which takes its rise in the plains, between the Missouri,
and the waters of the lake Winipec ; it is five or six hundred
miles in length.'** I ascended the bluffs, high clay banks
of sixty or an hundred feet. The current is here very strong.

'" Big Sioux River, which forms the boundary between the present states of
Iowa and South Dakota, heads near the source of the Red River of the North,
which drains into Lake Winnipeg. — Ed.

86 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

We ascended along the sand bars with difficulty on account
of the wind, which blew the sand in our [94] faces, and our
men suffered much from fatigue. Hailed a trader descend-
ing in a large canoe, made of skins of the buffaloe, upwards
of twenty feet in length, who wintered at the river a Jaque.
He met Hunt eight leagues above that river, proceeding
with a fair wind, and is by this time at the Poncas village.
These skin canoes are formed by stretching the skins of the
buffaloe over the red willow, of which a kind of frame is
in the first instance prepared. They require to be frequently
exposed to the sun, and dried, as they would otherwise be-
come too heavy from the quantity of water absorbed.

The water has been rapidly rising for twenty-four hours.
The sand bars are all covered and the banks in many places
inundated.

Tuesday 21st. This morning fine, though somewhat cool.
Wind increasing from the N. E. Current rapid, but for
the eddies in the bends, it would be almost impossible to
ascend. There are but few embarras, or collection of trees,
&c. The sand bars are fringed with a thick growth of
willows, immediately behind which there are young cotton-
wood trees, forming a handsome natural avenue, twenty
or thirty feet wide. The banks are [95] very low, and must
be inundated every season. Passed in the evening, a rapid
of frightful appearance, the water, in the middle of the
river, foaming and rolling in waves, as if agitated by violent
wind, while on either side it was calm. We were compelled
to pass along the sand bar, and through the willows. It
was with difficulty that we could obtain dry land this eve-
ning, the water, in most places, flows into the woods. In
the night, the water had risen so much that the men were
compelled to abandon their encampment, and sleep on board.
Very little prairie in the course of the day, but the timber
of a small size.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal 87

[96] CHAPTER V

Frightful rapids — News of Mr. Henry — A bufifaloe — The
Poncas — Meet the Sioux — Overtake Mr, Hunt.

Wednesday, 2^d \i. e., 22d\. A delightful day — the
water has risen to its utmost height, and presents a vast
expanse — the current uniformly rapid, in some places
rolling with the most furious and terrific violence. One of
these places, below Vermillion creek," was sufficient to
appal the stoutest heart: the river forms an elbow at the
termination of some bluffs, the water, compressed between
them and the sand bar, dashes against the opposite rocks.
The middle of the river appeared several feet higher than
the sides. The distance to cross, before we could reach
the opposite eddy, was not more than twice the length of
the boat, but we were not able completely to effect it, being
swept down with the rapidity of flight, but fell into the
current of the opposite side, before it had [97] gained its
full force, and were not able, without great difficulty, to
gain the eddy.

The high waters enable us to cut off points, which is no
small saving of the distance. The waters begin to fall,
though great quantities of drift wood descend, and thirty or
forty drowned buffaloes pass by us every day.

I observe a much greater variety of trees and shrubs,
than below, and some altogether new to me. There is a
shrub which the French call graisse de boeuj, bearing a red
berry, of a pungent taste; its leaves, though smaller and
more delicate, bear a resemblance to those of the pear tree.''
In the hollows, clumps of trees are usually found, but what

'^ Lewis and Clark called this the Whitestone River — a translation of its
Indian name, Wassisha. It is now Vermilion River, in South Dakota, with a
town of the same name at its mouth. — Ed.

" This is the plant called buffalo-berry, also (by Lewis and Clark) rabbit-
herry; scientifically it is shepherdia argentea. — Ed.

88 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

surprises me, they are very low, some of the oaks and ash
are eighteen or twenty inches in diameter, but look like
orchard trees, and have much greater resemblance to reg-
ular plantations than wild woods.

Thursday 2^d. Water falling rapidly — a fine breeze
S. E. sailed until eleven — passed the Hot, or Burning
bluffs, on the S. W. side. Here I observed enormous masses
of pumice, and other matter, which appeared to have under-
gone the action of heat, of a very high degree. [98] I saw
what was the fragment of a hill, the greater part at present
composed of pumice. From not being able to discover
other volcanic substances, I concluded these effects to have
been produced by simple ignition, whether of coal banks or
not, I was unable to ascertain. I took several large lumps
of the pumice lying along the shore, and threw them into
the river, and found that they floated. In one place the
soil seemed to have all burnt away, and the remains looked
like some old ruined building. The action of fire was every
where perceptible, and no vegetation could be discovered
for a considerable distance. I observed no volcanic ap-
pearances.

About noon, we espied at some distance before us, on
a sand bar, a number of persons, whom we at first took to
be Indians, but on a nearer approach recognised to be
whites. On coming to the spot, we found a Mr. Benit,
the Missouri Company's factor at the Mandan village.'*
He was descending in a small batteaux, loaded with peltry,
with five men. From him we learn, that with the excep-
tion of the Mandans, Arikaras, and one or two small tribes,,
all the nations of the Missouri are inimical to [99] the whites^

^ Probably this was Francis M. Benoit (Benoist), a prominent fiir-trader of
St. Louis, who had formerly maintained a post among the Oto and Pawnee. He
was born in Canada in 1768, came to St. Louis in 1790, and was occupied with,
Indian trade until his death in 1819. His son, Louis C. Benoist, was a leading,
St. Louis banker. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 89

and that the Sioux have broken out into open hostilities.
Mr. Benit, about eleven o'clock last night, in passing by
some fires below the Poncas village, was fired on as he sup-
posed by a party of the Yankton band of Sioux, which was
returned by him. Benit saw nothing of the party of Hunt,
having probably passed it in the night time. He also in-
formed us that Mr. Henry is at this time over the moun-
tains, in a distressed situation, that he had sent word of
his intention to return to the Mandan village in the spring,
with his whole party.

Proceeded on our voyage at three o'clock, not a little dis-
heartened at this intelligence. A gloom overspread every
countenance except that of Lisa, who seized the helm, made
an encouraging speech, sent round the grog, and then raised
the song. My thoughts, to say the truth, were rather un-
pleasant, but I was inclined to believe that if the danger
was such as we were led to believe, the party of Hunt would
wait for us; or if an attack should be made upon him, or
he compelled to descend the river, we should hear of it iff
time to save ourselves. Mr. Benit and an American hunter
[100] were persuaded to return with us. Passed some beau-
tiful upland N. E. side, but without wood ; after a beautiful
regular rise of twenty or thirty feet, resembling a sodded
bank, an immense level plain stretches out, bounded only
by the horizon. The hunter informs me that it extends
nearly an hundred miles with little variation. Here we
remarked a Sioux lodge, or tent, made of the dressed skins
of the elk, of a conical shape. It appears to be the custom
of these people to leave their dead in tents like these, in
the course of their migrations, until it is convenient for them
to gather up their remains.

Friday 24ih. Set off early — weather warm. The water
is falling very fast — there is still a very strong current.
Passed bluffs of a chalky appearance, perhaps limestone.

90 Bjurly Western Travels [Vol. 6

A piece of ice floated by us this morning, probably from
the breaking up of some of the northern rivers, which have
contributed to the present rise. In putting off from a bluff
on the S. W. side, to cross over, my attention was called to
an object which attracted the notice of the company. A
huge buffaloe bull made his appearance on the top of the
bluff standing almost at the edge [loi] of the precipice, and
looking down upon us. It was the first we had seen. Long
and matted wool hung over his head, and covered his huge
shoulders, while his body was smooth, as also the tail, ex-
cept a turf at the end. It was a striking and terrific object:
he eyed us with the ferocity of the lion, seemed at length
to "snuff the tainted breeze:" threw his head into the air,
wheeled round and trotted off. It was fifteen minutes be-
fore he disappeared entirely, and I continued to follow him
with my eyes, with a kind of delight. I was told he had
gone to join his comrade; the males at this season of the
year always go in pairs, a singular fact in the natural history
of the animal.

Had a fine breeze towards evening — which enabled us
to make five or six miles more than we expected.

Saturday 25th. This morning ran aground, and were
detained several hours. Passed the river a Jaqtie; the
principal rendezvous of the traders with the Yankton Sioux.
It is a large handsome stream, navigable several hundred
miles, with more wood on its borders than is generally
found in this part of the country. [102] Immediately at
the mouth there is an open wood, of ash and cotton
trees.

Sunday 26th. At daylight, discovered a canoe descend-
ing with two men, who prove to be those sent by us,
to Hunt. They bring us the pleasing information, that
Hunt, in consequence of our request, has agreed to wait
for us, at the Poncas village.

i8ii] Brackenridge's Journal 91

Saw some buffaloe to day, and with Mr. Lisa, went sev-
eral miles in pursuit of them, but without success.

Passed a beautiful island U isle a bon homme, upon which
there are the remains of an ancient fortification." In the
evening our hunter killed a buffaloe, upon which we all
feasted.

It is becoming very warm in the middle of the day, and
our men suffer considerably from the heat of the sun. As
we had no wind this morning, and ascended with the cor-
delle, I made my escape from the boat with my rifle. Passed
through a most delightful prairie, the grass short and close,
of a deep blue, and intermixed with a great variety of
beautiful flowers. With what delight could I roam over
these lovely meads, if not under restraint from the fear
of meeting some party of Indians, who [103] may be lurk-
ing about. The plain was strewed with the ordure of the
buffaloe, which gave it the appearance of an immense pas-
ture field. We discovered this morning, a great deal of
smoke up the river, which we suppose to have been made
by the Indians, in order to give notice of our approach;
some of their scouts having probably discovered us. This
is the usual mode of giving warning; the ordure of the buf-
faloe is gathered up in heaps, and fire set to it; and such
is the clearness of the atmosphere, that this smoke can be
easily discerned at the distance of ten or twenty miles.

The scenery this evening is beautiful beyond any thing
I ever beheld. In spite of every injunction to the contrary,
I could not help wandering a few miles from the boat. The
sky as clear as that represented in Chinese painting.
The face of the country enchanting. The flowery mead,
the swelling ground, the romantic hill, the bold river, the

** Bon Homme Island retains its name, and this has been extended to a South
Dakota county and town. The fortification which Brackenridge mentions Lewis
and Clark described in much detail. For drawings thereof, see Original Journals
of Lewis and Clark Expedition (New York, 1904). — Ed.

92 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

winding rivulet, the groves, the shrubberies, all disposed
and arranged in the most exquisite manner. No idea can
be conveyed to the mind, but by recurring to one which
would be as sad as this is pleasing. Suppose for a moment,
the most [104] beautiful parts of France or Italy should at
once be divested of their population, and with it their dwell-
ings and every vestige of human existence — that nothing
but the silent plains and a few solitary groves and thickets
should remain, there would then be some resemblance to the
scenery of the Missouri; though the contemplation would
produce grief instead of pleasure. Yet even here, I could
not but feel as if there existed a painful void — something
wanting — "a melancholy stillness reigns over the intermin-
able waste" — no animated beings —

scarce an insect moves

Its filmy wing — and o'er the plain, naught breathes
But scouling blasts, or th' eternal silence
Breaks — save when the pealing thunder roars.

In fact, I saw no living thing in the course of my evening
ramble, except a few buzzing insects. But there is a pleas-
ure in giving wing to fancy, which anticipates the cheerful
day when this virgin soil will give birth to millions of my
countrymen. Too happy, if my after fame might but sur-
vive on the plains of the Missouri. If the vast expanse of
ocean is considered as a sublime spectacle, this is even
[105] more so; for the eye has still greater scope, and, in-
stead of its monotony, now reposes upon the velvet green,
or feeds on the endless variety of hill and dale. Instead
of being closed up in a moving prison, deprived of the use
of our limbs, here we may wander at our will. The mind
naturally expands, or contracts, to suit the sphere in which it
exists — in the immeasurable immensity of the scene, the
intellectual faculties are endued with an energy, a vigor,
a spring, not to be described.

i8ii] Brackenrtdge s 'Journal 93

The water has fallen considerably, and the current is
much lessened.

Monday zyih. Had to oppose a contrary wind until
eleven. While exerting ourselves to pass a difficult and
dangerous rapid, Lisa who was at the head of the boat,
with the grappling hook, fell overboard, and narrowly es-
caped being drowned. Our boat floated down the stream.
When we renewed the attempt, strange to tell, it was my
turn to fall over, while exerting myself with a pole, in the
afterpart: I was near being swept away by the swiftness
of the current, but by good luck seized the steering oar,
and drew myself into the [106] boat, before the accident
was perceived by more than two or three.

At one, arrived at the Poncas village. On our approach
we found all the inhabitants crowded to the bank, and
several had waded into the water up to the waist. The
greater part of the men were naked; the women and chil-
dren filthy and disgusting. Two of the chiefs came on board,
and immediately began to beg; — ''Take pity on us, stran-
gers — we are very poor — we have no knives to cut our
meat, but are obliged to tear it with our nails — we have
no guns — we have no powder — or lead — take pity on
us, we are very poor." This is the contemptible whine
of nearly all the nations of the Missouri. We made a few
presents; the principal chief then begged for some whiskey,
a small dram was given him, which we afterwards regretted,
for in a few moments he became troublesome — looked
like a mad monkey, his teeth chattered, his tongue moved
incessantly, and his countenance underwent a thousand
ridiculous contortions and grimaces. It was with much
difficulty we could get him out of the boat; when he was
led to the edge, he appeared to be afraid to step off, though
the [107] boat was almost touching the shore; his limbs
quaked, he burst into tears, and bellowed like an ox; it

94 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

was found absolutely necessary to lift him out and set him
on the ground. He had no sooner touched it, than this
babe, was converted into a ferocious demon: he seized a
huge limb of a tree, and fell on the crowd of warriors,
women, and children, and laid about him with the utmost
fury; these stumbled over each other, and ran off helter
skelter, exhibiting a scene truly ludicrous.

We could obtain no information here, further than, that
Hunt had gone ofif three days before, but we suppose in
order to wait for us a short distance above. Proceeded on
our voyage and encamped at the mouth of the Qui Courre,
four miles above the village.'* In the evening, two men
who proved to be deserters from the party of Hunt, came
to us with very unwelcome intelligence. It seems that
Hunt, was much astonished to find from our messengers
that we were so near; but fearing to be passed, had sent
us a feigned answer in order to conceal his real design,
which was to make all possible haste to keep out of our
reach. In order to affect this, he was now making every
possible [io8] exertion. Our suspicions are now fully con-
firmed — Hunt is apprehensive that Lisa will endeavour to
pass, and then induce the Sioux to stop him, or he is him-
self resolved upon securing his passage by the same means.
Such is the effect of this unhappy distrust; this want of
mutual confidence, I fear, may in the end, prove equally
injurious to us all. Nothing is now left for us, but to push
our voyage with greater vigor than ever.

Tiusday 28th. Weather smoky, and extremely warm.
High land on both sides of the river, with some dwarf trees
in the hollows, principally cedar. At ten, a fine breeze
springing up, we continued under sail the rest of the day,
and determining to strain every nerve, in order to overtake

" The French name of the present Niobrara River was L'eau qui court (rapid-
running water). — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s journal 95

Hunt, we resolved to run the risk of sailing after night,
and fortunately it happened to be moonlight. We con-
tinued under way until eleven o'clock. As the water was
in a middling stage, there was danger of running aground,
and being detained several days. But little confidence can
be placed in the soundings, on account of the bends of the
river, and the sudden changes from deep to shoal water.
[109] There is scarcely any lowland from the Qui Courre —
the country hilly.

Wednesday zgth. After lying by a few hours, at one
o'clock, again continued under sail — but the moon dis-
appearing, and it becoming dark, it was thought adviseable
to lie by until day-light. The hills hereabout, high and
broken, and little or no river bottom on either side. At
two o'clock, arrived at a beautiful island, called Little
Cedar island, on which grows fine cedar, the trees un-
commonly large." This is a delightful spot, the soil of
the island is rich, and it may contain about three thousand
acres — the middle of the island is a beautiful prairie,
but the adjacent country is bleak and barren. At the point
of the island, discovered an encampment of Hunt, and on
examination, we discovered,' to the great joy of the company
that the fire was not yet extinguished; it is therefore but
a few days since he was here. Continued under sail until
eleven at night, having in little better than twenty-four
hours, made seventy-five miles.

Thursday ^oth. This morning, favoured with a con-
tinuance of fair wind. The country is exceedingly rough
and broken — the greater [no] part without the least vege-
tation. The hills have a very singular appearance. Near
the top they look black, and seem to have been burnt.

^ This was the first of the islands bearing this name, which is still retained.
It is in Gregory County, South Dakota. The second is near Chamberlain. See
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series, note 67. — Ed.

96 E,arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

About noon, saw some tracks, which we supposed to be
of yesterday.

In the evening, passed a very fine stream, called White
river, about three hundred yards wide at the mouth."
Here there is some bottom land, and wood points; the hills
covered with grass. Heard several gun shots, which we
supposed to have been from the party of Hunt. This
evening the wind abated.

Friday ^ist. This morning, a contrary wind, and some
rain. Proceeded with the cordelle. In the course of the
day, saw a large flock of antelopes — they appear to be
numerous in this part of the country. Observed in the sand,
a number of Indian tracks, and a place, where it appeared
that the boats of Mr. Hunt had stopped with the Indians
some time. One of our men discovered a curious place,
contrived by the Indians, for taking fish; it was something
like a fish basket — we found two fine catfish in it.

When about to put into the river, to cross to a point,
we discovered three buffaloes, swimming [i 11] towards us,
and contrary to the precautions we had agreed to observe,
in making no noise, (lest we should be discovered by the
Indians, who were probably in the neighborhood) a firing
was commenced upon the poor animals, which continued
half an hour. The report of the guns, as might have been
foreseen, brought an Indian to the top of the hill, but
we were too far in the river, to return to him, or to be
heard.

Towards evening, the boat having received some injury,
were compelled to stop — I went in pursuit of a buffaloe
calf — on my return, found the party somewhat uneasy
on account of the length of my stay, having been drawn
by the eagerness of pursuit to a considerable distance. Set

" White River rises in northeastern Nebraska and flows through South
Dakota, emptying into the Missouri in Lyman County. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s 'Journal 97

off again, and continued to drag the boat along until late
at night. The men much fatigued.

Saturday, June ist. At daylight we heard the firing of
guns on the hills below us, on the other side of the river;
and concluded that all our precautions and extraordinary
exertion had been vain; that we should be robbed and
killed, or at least compelled to return; for it was in vain to
think of ascending the river if these [112] people were deter-
mined to oppose us. In a short time they made their ap-
pearance on the opposite sand beach, hoisted an Ameri-
can flag, and fired a few shots. There was but one thing
to be done, which was to cross over to them at once, and
meet the worst, every man preparing himself for defence.
Each rower had his gun by his side, and Lisa and myself
beside our knives and rifles had each a pair of pistols in
our belts. On reaching the shore, we discovered twelve
or thirteen Indians seated on a log of wood, but we supposed
the principal body of them were concealed in the woods,
so as to be at hand if required. Lisa and I leaped ashore,
and shook hands with them. Having no interpreter at
this critical juncture, we were fearful of not being under-
stood: however, with the aid of certain signs which form
a kind of universal language amongst the Indians, and with
which Lisa was acquainted, he was enabled to hold a con-
versation. He told them that he was their trader, but that
he had been very unfortunate, for all the peltries which he
had collected among them, as they well knew, had been
burnt the year before; while his young men, who had passed
up to [113] the head of the river, had been greatly distressed
by the natives of those parts, who were bad people. That
he was now poor and much to be pitied, and was on his way
to bring back his young men, having resolved to leave the
upper country. He concluded, by requesting the chief to
give notice to all the Sioux bands that in three months he

98 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

would return and establish a trading factory for them at
the Cedar island. This speech, together with a handsome
present, had the desired effect; though not without apparent
reluctance. Remaining as short a time as possible, we re-
crossed the river. The chief is a fine looking Indian, the
others were very young men, nearly naked, with long braids
of hair hanging over their foreheads, and confined in small
tubes. They have all fine features, and are well formed. I
observed a singular appendage to their moccasins; a fox's
tail was fastened to the heel, and which trailed along the
ground as they walked. It is two days since Hunt passed
here.

We experienced a momentary relief, but did not by any
means, consider ourselves yet safe. It is possible we may
have passed the principal body of the Sioux in the night,
while under [114] sail, in which case, they will be able to
overtake us by this evening, or to-morrow morning. We
therefore resolved not to remit our exertions.

About twelve o'clock we reached the great bend, twenty
miles round, and but one mile and an half across the gorge.
A remarkable part of the river. In the evening there was
every appearance of an approaching change in the state of
the atmosphere; and the wind, as usual, veered gradually
round to the different points of the compass, from south to
east, from east to north, and from north to west; and what
appeared almost miraculous, shifted with the course of the
river so as to enable us to sail with a favourable wind, nearly
the whole way round the bend. In this, however, we were
exposed to considerable danger, and suffered much from a
very heavy rain. Thus favoured, we have gained a day
upon Hunt.

Sunday 2d. Set out with my gun early this morning
on the S. W. side of the river — walked about four miles
along the hills, and at length approaching in sight of the

i8ii] Brackenridge* s 'Journal 99

point where the great bend terminates, I descried on the
opposite side, with much satisfaction, the boats [115] of
Mr. Hunt. I immediately returned to give the joyful in-
telligence to our people. On coming opposite the place
where I had seen the boats, we discovered a great number
of Indians, who beckoned to us to cross; but supposing
them to be Sioux, we determined to continue on until we
should overtake the party before us. We suffered them to
shout, to gallop their horses, and to wave their robes un-
noticed. Some distance above, two men came to us, who
had been with Hunt; the Indians we had just passed, were
a party of three hundred Arikaras, who, on hearing of our
approach, had come for the purpose of enabling us to ascend.
It appears also, that we have passed all the Sioux bands,
who had been seen by Hunt, but probably finding his party
too strong, they had resolved to stop and plunder ours;
that we must have passed them in the night, or under sail,
as they did not expect to hear of us so soon.

At eleven o'clock we overtook Hunt's party, to the satis-
faction of our little company. It was with real pleasure I
took my friend Bradbury by the hand ; I had reason to be-
lieve our meeting was much more cordial than that of [116]
the two commanders. Continued under sail in company
the rest of the day, forming a handsome little fleet of five
sail. Encamped in the evening opposite the larger Cedar
island, twelve hundred miles from the mouth of the
Missouri.'*

'* This was the Cedar Island upon which Loisel's fort stood; see Bradbury's
TravtiSy vol. v of our series, note 105. — Ed.

lOO Early Western Travels [Vol.6

CHAPTER VI «»

Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttal — An excursion — Rupture
between the leaders of our parties — Arrival at the Arika-
ra villages.

Hitherto the rapidity of our movements, and the con-
tinual anxiety which prevailed amongst us, precluded the
possibility of making any distant excursions, or of observ-
ing the different objects which came under our notice, with
the attention I could have wished. These inconveniences
were now all passed, and I now promised myself much
pleasure in the examination [117] of the country, and of its
productions; as well as much information from the society
of two scientific men. I had little or no practical knowl-
edge of natural history myself, and thus far we had passed
through a district affording little else to excite attention.
The surface of the land — its shape — its appearances —
was all that I could pretend to note with accuracy, and this
only on the immediate borders of the river. We are now
twelve hundred miles from the mouth; the last six hundred,
with little variation composed of grassy stepps, with open
groves at intervals along the margin of the river, and on the
uplands and hollows at a distance from it, a few copses of
wood and shrubberies. The hills of no great elevation,
scarcely exceeding those on the Ohio, and like that through
which this beautiful river holds its course, a region entirely
calcareous. The shores of the river are seldom bound by
rocks; and where the bluffs or higher banks are precipi-
tous, we seldom see any thing but enormous masses of bare
clay, often sixty or an hundred feet in height, which is con-
stantly crumbling into the river. The limestone, freestone,
or sandstone, but rarely shews itself on the river. [118]

" Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series: Ankara Indians, notes 76 and 83; Chey-
enne River, note 8i; Svu-warcarna River, note 82. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge s journal loi

From this it will be seen, that to the mineralogist, few objects
of interest are found. The masses of pumice, and the burnt
bluffs in the country of the Poncas, are to be attributed
most probably to the burning of coal banks; for it is a well
known fact, that such have been known to bum for several
years without being extinguished; and why may not the
same thing have occurred here. In one place above the
Poncas village, the river is bounded on both sides by hills
of no great elevation, bare of vegetation, and the earth
from the effects of burning, in nearly the whole of this dis-
tance, of a dark color, quite hard and heavy, as if contain-
ing a portion of iron. Emetites are observed in consider-
able quantities, from which it is probable that iron ore
exists.

Mr. Bradbury has met with but little on the subject of
mineralogy; but has been very successful in his botanical
researches. He has encountered nearly an hundred unde-
scribed plants, many very beautiful and curious. Within
a few days he finds a great number which he calls Mexican.
We have now in fact reached that inclined plain over which
the rivers of the Provincias Intemas, run into the [119] Gulf
of Mexico. There are also many alpine plants, by which
he conjectures, that we have already attained a much greater
height, than any part, of the Eastern section of the valley
of the Mississippi. Mr. Bradbury, in company with some
Indians and hunters has made an excursion from the river
Platte, to the Otto villages on that river, to the mouth of
Elkhom, which he describes as a deep navigable stream,
containing nearly as much water as the Thames at London
bridge, but this water is swallowed up in the shoals and
quicksands of the river, into which it is discharged. He
passed for one hundred and fifty miles, through a delightful
champaign country, of rich, open, smooth meadows, the
borders of the streams fringed with wood: within eight or

I02 Rarly Western Travels [Vol.6

ten miles of the Missouri, the country is more broken and
hilly, and with a still smaller proportion of wood.

There is in company a gentleman of whom I have already
spoken, Mr. Nuttal, engaged in similar pursuits, to which
he appears singularly devoted, and which seems to engross
every thought, to the total disregard of his own personal
safety, and sometimes to the [120] inconvenience of the
party he accompanies. To the ignorant Canadian boat-
men, who are unable to appreciate the science, he affords
a subject of merriment; le jou is the name by which he is
commonly known. When the boat touches the shore, he
leaps out, and no sooner is his attention arrested by a plant
or flower, then every thing else is forgotten. The inquiry is
made ou est le jou ? where is the fool ? il est apres ramassee des
racines, he is gathering roots. He is a young man of genius,
and very considerable acquirements, but is too much devoted
to his favorite pursuit, and seems to think that no other study
deserves the attention of a man of sense. I hope, should
this meet his eye, it will give no offence; for these things,
often constituted a subject of merriment to us both.

The day after this fortunate junction, we continued our
voyage, but were opposed by a strong wind from the N.
E. which, compelled us, after we had proceeded a few miles,
to encamp for the remainder of the day.

Took my gun, and set off to make an excursion. The
country is altogether open, excepting some groves of cotton-
wood in the bottom. [121] The upland rises into consid-
erable hills, about one third covered with a very short grass,
intermixed with a great variety of plants and flowers,
the rest consists of hills of clay, almost bare of every kind
of vegetation. On the tops of the higher hills, at some dis-
tance from the river, there are masses of granite, of several
tons weight, and great quantities of pebbles. In the course
of my ramble, I happened on a village of barking squirrels.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s ^Journal 103

or prairie dogs, as they have been called. My approach
was announced by an incessant barking, or rather chirp-
ing, similar to that of a common squirrel, though much
louder. The village was situated on the slope of a hill,
and appeared to be at least a mile in length; the holes were
seldom at a greater distance from each other than twenty
or thirty paces. Near each hole, there was a small eleva-
tion of earth, of six or eight inches, behind which, the little
animal posted himself, and never abandoned it, or ceased
the demonstrations of alarm, 'insignificantly fierce,' until
I approached within a few paces. As I proceeded through
the village, they disappeared, one after another, before me.
There was never more than one at each hole. I had [122]
heard that the magpie, the Missouri rattle snake, and the
horn frog, were observed to frequent these places; but I
did not see any of them, except the magpie. The rattle
snake of the prairies, is about the same length with the com-
mon rattle snake, but more slender, and the color white
and black.

In the course of the evening, I had an opportunity of
seeing the manner in which the antelope is taken in these
open plains, where there is no possibility of approaching
by insidious means. A handkerchief is placed on the end
of a ramrod, and waved in the air, the hunter lying flat on
the ground. If any of the animals be in sight, they run
instantly to the place, and perform a circuit around, ap-
proaching often within twenty or thirty yards, which gives
an opportunity of firing on them. This is the most swift
and beautiful little animal on our continent." The de-
scription of the gazel of Africa, the favorite theme of Ara-
bian poetry, might be applied to the antelope of the Missouri.

" The American antelope {Antilocapra americ&na) was first made known to
the scientific world by the description of Lewis and Clark. It is frequently called
"cabra," from the Spanish word for goat. — Ed.

1 04 "Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

It is perhaps, the most swift of all animals; and the most
timid. Its course over the country is more like flight, than
the movement of a quadruped. Its color is that of the deer,
but [123] in shape it bears a greater resemblance to the goat,
though larger, and of a form much more delicate; I often
amuse myself with watching the motions of this little animal.

The party of Mr. Hunt consists of about eighty men,
chiefly Canadians, the rest are American-hunters.

Tuesday ^h. Set off at seven — wind contrary, though
not so strong as yesterday. After doubling a point, we
found that from the course of the river, the wind would be
favorable, and accordingly sailed for eight or ten miles.
We saw at the mouth of a small creek, a herd of buffaloe of
all sizes, crowded together, to the number of several hun-
dred. We immediately debarked, but they disappeared
before we succeeded in killing any of them. The appear-
ance of the country has varied but little for several days
past. Bleak and dreary — the bottoms narrow; in some
places none at all, and clay bluffs.

Wednesday §th. This morning after proceeding a short
distance we were compelled, by rain, to put to shore, where
we continued until towards evening, and seeing no proba-
bility that the weather would clear up, crossed [124] over
to the S. W. side, where Hunt and his party were encamped.
On the side we had left, the hills approach close to the river,
and bare of vegetation; the earth a stiff clay, which being
now moistened by the rain is exceedingly slippery. On
the other side there is a handsome plain, with a row of trees
along the margin of the river, and a handsome wood along
the borders of a little rivulet which flows across the plain.
The upland rises at the distance of a quarter of a mile, to
the height of sixty or seventy feet, in a number of project-
ing points, or hills. On ascending this ground we found
ourselves on an extended plain, upon which at the distance

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 105

of a few miles the hills rose in strange, irregular broken
masses. Mr. Bradbury and I took a stroll from the camp,
in quest of specimens and adventures. Before reaching
the upland we observed on the river bottom a large encamp-
ment of Sioux, where they had probably remained during
winter, from the traces of tents, the quantity of bones,
and the appearance of the ground. Their position was well
chosen; the wood of the Missouri, and that of the streamlet
I have just mentioned, at [125] right angles with it, formed
two sides of the camp, on the other sides there is an open
plain. In this place it would have been difficult to have
attacked them by surprise. On coming to the upland we
found the points of the hills stony, and large masses of de-
tached rock here and there on the more elevated places.
The grass short, intermixed with many beautiful small
flowers, but no weeds. A few prickly pears (cactus) were
seen, but of a small size, not exceeding a few inches in
length, and the thorns not strong. The upland was at
every little distance, indented with ravines, or hollows,
some of them bare of soil and still subject to the washing
of the rains, others well covered with grass. Upon one of
these projecting points, we observed at some distance a
small group of buffaloes lying down. Stealing along the
brow of the hill, we ascended from a ravine, approached
within thirty or forty yards, and taking aim together, fired
at a cow that happened to be nearest to us; she started up
and bellowed, the others seemed to be but little alarmed,
until we rose up and advanced towards them, when they
trotted off slowly to the hills,' leaving the cow who went [126]
off in a different direction. The wounded buffaloe, or deer,
always leave the herd. I pursued her for some distance,
but found that she was not mortally wounded. The flight
of these alarmed other herds which were feeding at a dis-
tance; there was something picturesque in the appearance of

io6 "Early Western Travels [Vol.6

these herds of buffaloe, slowly winding round the sides of
the distant hills, disappearing in some hollow and again
emerging to view. Wide and beaten roads formed by the
passing of the buffaloe, may every where be seen. While
Mr. Bradbury was engaged in collecting specimens, I ran
to a point at the distance of a mile, where I saw some ante-
lopes, and had the good fortune, by ascending a ravine to
approach within sixty yards. They proved to be six females
and one male; the latter at every instant performed a circuit
in a small trot, and then suddenly stopped short, as if to
see that nothing came near. The tail like that of the goat,
and perfectly white, the limbs small and delicate, the horns
like those of the deer, with several prongs, but they are
never shed, and the female has them as well as the male,
though of a smaller size. On shewing myself they flew
off, and I [127] had scarce time to reach the spot they left,
until they reappeared upon another point, as far off as when
I first saw them. We saw in the course of the evening,
several wolves, villages of prairie dogs, a herd of elk, and
a hare of the species called lepus variabilis, its color was at
this time grey, but becomes white in winter.

On our return, I found that a disagreeable misunderstand-
ing had taken place between the two chiefs of the parties:
The interpreter of Mr. Hunt, had improperly relinquished
the service of the company, to which he was still indebted.
Mr. Lisa had several times mentioned to him the impro-
priety of his conduct, and perhaps had made him some offers,
in order to draw him from his present service. This was
certainly imprudent, and placed him in the power of a
worthless fellow, who, without doubt, retailed the conver-
sation to his master, with some additions. This evening,
while in Hunt's camp, to which he had gone on some busi-
ness, he was grossly insulted by the interpreter, who struck
him several times, and seized a pair of pistols belonging

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 107

to Hunt; — that gentleman did not [128] seem to interest
himself much in the affair, being actuated by feelings of
resentment, at the attempt to inveigle his man. On my
return to our camp, I found Mr. Lisa furious with rage,
buckling on his knife, and preparing to return: finding that
I could not dissuade, I resolved to accompany him. It
was with the greatest difficulty I succeeded in preventing
the most serious consequences. I had several times to
stand between him and the interpreter, who had a pistol
in each hand. I am sorry to say, that there was but little
disposition on the part of Mr. Hunt to prevent the mischief
that might have arisen. I must, in justice to him declare,
however, that it was through him that Mr. M'Clelland
was induced not to put his threat" in execution, having
pledged his honour to that effect. I finally succeeded in
bringing Lisa off to his boat. When it is recollected that
this was at a distance of a thousand miles from all civil
authority, or power, it will be seen that there was but little
to restrain the effects of animosity. Having obtained, in
some measure, the confidence of [129] Mr. Hunt, and the
gentiemen who were with him, and Mr. Bradbury that of
Mr. Lisa, we mutually agreed to use all the arts of media-
tion in our power, and if possible, prevent any thing serious.
Thursday 6th. Weather clearing up. The water rising
very fast — supposed the annual flood. This morning
passed the ruins of an Indian village, there were great piles
of buffaloe bones, and quantities of earthen ware. The
village appears to have been scattered round a kind of cit-
adel, or fortification, enclosing four or five acres, and of an
oval form. The earth is thrown up about four feet, there
are a few cedar palisadoes remaining. Probably, in cases
of siege, the whole village was crowded into this space.

*^ That if ever he fell in with Lisa, in the Indian country, he would shoot him. —

B RACKENRIDGE.

io8 Early Western Travels [Vol.6

Friday 28th [i. e., ph.\ Continued under way as usual.
All kind of intercourse between the leaders has ceased. In
the evening, passed several old villages, said to be of the
Arikara nation. The bottoms, or points, become wider, and
the bluffs of a less disgusting appearance ; there are but few
clay hills, the country being generally covered with grass.

[130] Saturday 8th. Contrary wind to-day, though delight-
ful weather. This morning, passed a large and handsome
river, called the Chienne, S. W. side. It appears as large
as the Cumberland or Tennessee. Saw at this place, the
ruins of an old village and fortification. The country here-
abouts is fine, and better wooded than any I have seen for
the last three hundred miles. A tolerable settlement might
be supported here. Game is very abundant — elk, deer,
and buffaloe without number. We observed this evening,
forty or fifty skin canoes, which had been left by some war
party which had crossed here. Such is the wanton destruc-
tion of the buffaloe, that, I am informed, the Indians will
kill them merely for the purpose of procuring their skins for
these canoes.

Encamped a few miles above the Chienne river, in a
beautiful bottom. No art can surpass the beauty of this
spot; trees of different kinds, shrubs, plants, flowers, meadow,
and upland, charmingly dispersed. What coolness and
freshness breathes around! The river is bordered with
cotton-wood, and a few elms, there is then an open space
of thirty or forty paces, after which begins a delightful
shrubbery [131] of small ash trees, the graisse de beouf,
the gooseberry, currant, &c. forming a most delightful
avenue. We all remark, that the singing of the birds is
much sweeter than in the forests of the states. This is
fancifully accounted for by Mr. Bradbury, from the effects
of society; from the scantiness of woods, they are compelled
to crowd on the same tree, and in this way impart improve-

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 109

ment to each other. Assummg it as a fact, that the birds
of Europe sing better than those of America, he asks, can
it be owing to any other reason than this ? There are great
numbers of the common field lark; the black bird, thrush,
martin, and wren, are also numerous. Turkeys, patridges,
or pheasants, are not to be seen beyond the Maha village.

The moschetoes have been exceedingly troublesome for
several days past. They disappear in the evenings, which
are cool, or with the slightest wind.

Sunday gth. Got under way this morning, with fine
weather. Discovered great numbers of buffaloe; on the
N. W. side, an extensive level meadow. Numbers began
to swim across the river, as Hunt whose party was before
us, [132] was passing along; they waited and killed as many
as they wanted; a number which were started from an
island, swam towards us, and we killed several also.

Mr. Bradbury and I went out on the N. W. side, where
the buffaloe had been first seen, and walked several miles.
A very beautiful and extensive meadow, at least a mile
wide, but without a tree or shrub — the upland bare. Passed
a Sioux encampment of last fall — from appearance there
must have been three or four hundred here. Amongst
other things, our curiosity was attracted, by a space, about
twenty feet in diameter, enclosed with poles, with a post
in the middle, painted red, and at some distance, a buffaloe
head raised upon a little mound of earth. We are told,
this is a place where an incantation for rendering the buffaloe
plenty, had been performed. Amongst other ceremonies,
the pipe is presented to the head. I started several elk and
departed from Mr. Bradbury to go in pursuit of them —
I ran several miles along the hills, but without success.
I had wandered about a mile from the river, but could dis-
tinctly see it. The country rises in steps, each step an ex-
tensive plain. Herds [133] of buffaloe could be seen at

1 1 o 'Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

such a distance as to appear like black spots or dots. How
different are the feelings in the midst of this romantic
scenery, from those experienced in the close forests of the
Ohio?

At four o'clock hoisted sail with a fair wind. From the
moment of our departure, we were hardly ever out of sight
of herds of buffaloes, feeding on the hills and in the plains,
and in the course of the day saw elk and antelopes in abun-
dance. These objects enliven the scenery, but there is some-
thing strange in thus passing day after day without meeting
any human beings. A vast country inhabited only by
buffaloes, deer, and wolves, has more resemblance to the
fictions of the 'Arabian Nights Entertainments' than to
reality. Towards evening, seeing a number of buffaloes
crowded on a small beach at the foot of an island, orders
were given to observe silence, while seven or eight of us
posted ourselves to the best advantage. They suffered us
to approach within thirty or forty yards, while they stood
gazing at the sail with blank indifference. We selected
the fattest and fired on him together. Notwithstanding
his wounds, which must have been mortal, he endeavoured
to make off with [134] the rest. We pursued him into the
island — the animal had now become ferocious from his
wounds, and it was found dangerous to approach him.
He received twenty balls in his body before he was brought to
the ground.

The island is beautiful. It is completely surrounded by
cotton wood and cedar trees, but the space within is a
handsome clear meadow. Along the edges of the woods
in the inside, there are great quantities of gooseberry
bushes; all these islands are much alike in this respect, and
surpass any I have seen on the lower part of the river.

Monday loih. During the whole of this day had a fine
wind which enabled us to make thirty-five miles. En-

i8ii] Brackenridge's 'Journal 1 1 1

camped opposite a fine stream, called Ser-war-cema, N. W.
side.

The country wears a handsome aspect; the hills gently
swelling, and some delightful prairie on the river. There
is but little wood. In the course of the day we saw great
numbers of buffaloe, in herds of several hundreds each.

Tuihday nth. Continued our voyage with a slight
wind. The country much the same as that of yesterday.
Encamped some distance below the island on which the
Arikara village [135] was situated some years ago — they
have removed a few miles further up. This evening I
went to the camp of Mr. Hunt to make arrangements as
to the manner of arriving at the village, and of receiving
the chiefs. This is the first time our leaders have had any
intercourse directly or indirectly since the quarrel. Mr.
Lisa appeared to be suspected; they supposed it to be his
intention to take advantage of his influence with the Arikara
nation, and do their party some injury in revenge. I
pledged myself that this should not be the case.

Wednesday 12th. Heavy rains accompanied by thunder
and lightning last night.

At nine o'clock two of the chiefs with the interpreter
employed by the company, came on board our boat. They
are both fine looking men, much above the common size,
and with much fairer complexions than any Indians I have
seen. One is the hereditary village chief; named the Le^t
handed; the other a ferocious, and gigantic looking fellow,
is the principal war chief, named the Big man. At ten we
put to shore opposite the village, in order to dry our baggage,
which was completely wet. The leaders of the party of
Hunt were still suspicious [136] that Lisa intended to be-
tray them. — M'Clelland declared that he would shoot him
the moment he discovered any thing like it. In the mean
time, the chief spoke across the river, which is here about

112 Karly Western Travels [Vol. 6

a half mile wide; we understood that he was giving orders
to prepare the council lodge. The village appeared to
occupy about three quarters of a mile along the river bank,
on a level plain, the country behind it rising into hills of
considerable height. There are little or no woods any
where to be seen. The lodges are of a conical shape, and
look like heaps of earth. A great number of horses are
seen feeding in the plains around, and on the sides of the
hills. I espied a number of squaws, in canoes, descending
the river and landing at the village. The interpreter in-
formed me, that they were returning home with wood.
These canoes are made of a single buffaloe hide, stretched
over osiers, and of a circular form. There was but one
woman in each canoe, who kneeled down and paddled in
front. The load was fastened to the canoe and dragged
along. The water being a little rough, these canoes some-
times almost disappeared between the waves, which pro-
duced a [137] curious effect; the squaws with the help of a
little fancy, might be taken for mermaids, sporting on the
billows; the canoe rising and sinking with them, while the
women were visible from the waist upwards.

About two o'clock, all matters being arranged, fourteen
of us crossed over and accompanied the village chief to
his lodge. Mats were laid around for us to sit upon, while
he placed himself on a kind of stool or bench. The pipe
was then handed round and smoked ; after which the herald
(every chief or great man has one of them) ascended to the
top of the lodge, and seating himself near an open place,
began to bawl out like a town crier; the chief every now
and then addressing him something through the before
mentioned aperture or skylight. We soon discovered the
object of this, by the arrival of the other chiefs, about twenty
in number, who came dropping in as their respective names
were called over, and squatted down upon the bear, or
buffaloe skins.

i8ii] Brackenridge's Journal 113

When all were seated, the crier prepared the pipe, then
handed it to the chief, who, as is usual on solemn occasions,
began by blowing [138] a whiff upwards, as it were to the
heavens, then to the earth, and afterwards to the east.

" O Jove! O earth!

And thou fair sun, "

After which the pipe was sent round. A mark of respect
in handing the pipe to another, is to hold it until he has taken
several whiffs. After this ceremony, the chief began the
usual complaint of poverty, &c. not in the spirit of the good
Evander, who only alludes to his poverty, to show how
much he is above the love of wealth, and tells his guests
that his humble roof was not scorned even by a deity. He
then declared that he was happy to see us in his village
and to take us by the hand as friends. Lisa in reply to
this, after the usual common-place, observed that he was
come to trade amongst them and the Mandans, but that these
persons, (pointing to Hunt and his comrades,) were going
a long journey to the great Salt lake, to the west, and he
hoped would meet with favourable treatment; and that any
injury offered them, he would consider as done to himself;
that although distinct parties, yet as to the safety of either,
they were but one. This candid and [139] frank declara-
tion, at once removed all suspicion from the minds of the
others, who had become seriously apprehensive that Lisa,
finding himself amongst a people who were perfectly at
his disposal, might betray them. A number of short
speeches were made by the other 'chiefs and warriors. On
the proposal of trading, the Left handed required a day or
two, until he could consult with his people, and fix the terms
upon which the trade would be conducted: with this the
council ended, the boats were ordered over and encamped
a little distance below the village. A guard of Indian war-
riors was placed to keep off the populace and prevent pil-
fering.

1 1 4 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

[140] CHAPTER VII «

Arikara villages — An alarm in the village — Manners and
customs.

The morning after the council, we were completely
drenched by heavy rains, which had fallen during the night.
The chief has not given his answer as to the conditions of
the trade. It is for him usually to fix the price, on a con-
sultation with his subordinate chiefs; to this the whole vil-
lage must conform. The Indian women and girls were
occupied all this morning in carrying earth in baskets, to
replace that which the rain had washed ofif their lodges.
Rambled through the village, which I found excessively
filthy, the 'villainous smells,' which every where assailed
me, compelled me at length, to seek refuge in the open
plain. The lovers of Indian manners, and mode of living,
should contemplate them at a distance. The rains had
rendered their village little better than a hog pen; the police
appeared to me, in general, extremely negligent. Some of
[141] the ancient cities of the old world, were probably like
this village, inattentive to that cleanliness so necessary to
health, where a great mass of beings are collected in one
place; and we need not be surprised at the frequency of
desolating plagues and pestilence. The village is swarm-
ing with dogs and children. I rank these together, for
they are inseparable companions. Wherever I went, the
children ran away, screaming and frightened at my outre
and savage appearance. Let us not flatter ourselves with
the belief, that the effect of civilization and refinement, is
to render us agreeable and [lovely to the eyes of those whom
we exclusively denominate savages! The dogs, of which

°' Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series: Snake Indians, note 123; Cheyenne
Indians, note 88; Mandan Indians, note 76. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s journal 115

each famOy has thirty or forty, pretended to make a show
of fierceness, but on the least threat, ran ofiF. They are of
different sizes and colors. A number are fattened on pur-
pose to eat, others are used for drawing their baggage. It
is nothing more than the domesticated wolf. In wandering
through the prairies, I have often mistaken wolves for Indian
dogs. The larger kind has long curly hair, and resembles
the shepherd dog. There is the same diversity amongst
the wolves of this country. [142] They may be more
properly said to howl, than bark.

The lodges are constructed in the following manner:
Four large forks of about fifteen feet in height, are placed
in the ground, usually about twenty feet from each other,
with hewn logs or beams across; from these beams other
pieces are placed above, leaving an aperture at the top to
admit the light, and to give vent to the smoke. These up-
right pieces are interwoven with osiers, after which the
whole is covered with earth, though not sodded. An open-
ing is left at one side for a door, which is secured by a kind
of projection of ten or twelve feet, enclosed on all sides,
and forming a narrow entrance, which might be easily de-
fended. A buff aloe robe suspended at the entrance, answers
as a door. The fire is made in a hole in the ground,
directly under the aperture at the top. Their beds elevated
a few feet, are placed around the lodge, and enclosed with
curtains of dressed elk skins. At the upper end of the
lodge, there is a kind of trophy erected; two buff aloe heads,
fantastically painted, are placed on a little elevation; over
them, are fixed a variety of consecrated things, such as
shields, [143] skins of a rare or valuable kind, and quivers of
arrows. The lodges are placed at random, without any
regularity or design, and are so much alike, that it was for
some time before I could learn to return to the same one.
The village is surrounded by a palisade of cedar poles, but

1 1 6 EiUrly Western Travels [Vol. 6

in a very bad state. Around the village there are little plats
enclosed by stakes, entwined with osiers, in which they cul-
tivate maize, tobacco, and beans; but their principal field
is at the distance of a mile from the village, to which, such
of the females, whose duty it is to attend to their culture,
go and return morning and evening. Around the village
they have buJBfaloe robes stuck on high poles. I saw one so
arranged as to bear a resemblance to the human figure,
the hip bone of the buffaloe represented the head, the sockets
of the thigh bones looked like eyes.

Friday i/^ih. It rained again last night, which prevented
the trade from commencing until some time in the day.
Mr. Lisa sent a quantity of goods to the lodge of the prin-
cipal chief before mentioned, and Hunt to the one who
accompanied him to meet us, the principal war chief. The
price of a horse was commonly [144] ten dollars worth of
goods at first cost. Hunt had resolved to purchase horses
at this place, and proceed by land to the Columbia, being
assured by some hunters, who met him before his arrival
here, that this would be his best route.
. Mr. Bradbury and I, took a walk into the upper village,
which is separated from the lower by a stream about twenty
yards wide — Entered several lodges, the people of which
received us with kindness, placed mats and skins for us
to sit on, and after smoking the pipe, offered us something
to eat; this consisted of fresh buffaloe meat served in a
wooden dish. They had a variety of earthen vessels, in
which they prepared their food, or kept water. After the
meat, they offered us homony made of corn dried in the
milk, mixed with beans, which was prepared with buffaloe
marrow, and tasted extremely well. Also the prairie turnip,
pounded and made into gruel. This is a root that abounds
in the prairies — has something of the taste of the turnip,
but more dry. Their most common food is homony and

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 117

dried buffaloe meat. In one of the lodges which we vis-
ited, we found the doctor, who was preparing some [145]
medicine for a sick lad. He was cooling with a spoon a
decoction of some roots, which had a strong taste and smell,
resembling jalap. He showed us a variety of simples
which he used. The most of them were common plants
with some medical properties, but rather harmless than
otherwise. The boy had a slight pleurisy. The chief rem-
edy for their diseases, which they conceive to be owing to a
disorder of the bowels, is rubbing the abdomen and sides
of the patient, sometimes with such violence, as to cause
fainting. When they become dangerous, they resort to
charms and incantations, such as singing, dancing, blowing
on the sick, &c. They are very successful in the treatment
of wounds. When the wound becomes very obstinate, they
resort to the actual cautery, after which it heals more easily.

Saturday i^th. Fine weather — Took a walk with Mr.
Bradbury through the country, which is entirely open, and
somewhat hilly. Large masses of granite were usually
found on the highest knobs. We saw a great variety of
plants, and some new ones — One or two of the vallies are
beautiful, with scarcely any shrubs [146] but dwarf plum
trees, scattered along a rivulet.

On our return in the evening, an alarm prevailed in the
village, which appeared to be all in commotion. We were
informed that the Sioux, their enemies, were near. This
was probably all preconcerted. I was shewn, at the dis-
tance of about two miles, four horsemen on the top of a hill,
at full gallop, passing and re-passing each other, which I
understand is the usual signal given by the scouts, (some
of whom are constantly on the alert,) of the approach of
an enemy. To give intelligence of the appearance of a herd
of buffaloe, instead of crossing each other, they gallop back-
ward and forward abreast. Presently the warriors issued

1 1 8 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

from the village with great noise and tumult, pursuing the
direction in which the signal was made, down the river,
and past our encampment; observing no regular march, but
running helter skelter, like persons in one of our towns to
extinguish a fire — and keeping up a continual hallooing
to encourage each other. A number were on horseback,
but the greater part on foot. Some were dressed in their
most gaudy [147] stile, with the cincture of feathers, and
their ornaments of the head made of plumes, fitted round
a kind of crown. The tops of the lodges were crowded
with women and children, and with old men, who could
give no assistance, but by their lungs, which they kept well
employed: yet there were several who sallied forth, bend-
ing under the weight of years. I counted upwards of five
hundred in all. They soon after returned; whether they
had chased away the enemy, or the alarm had turned out
false, I never learned.

In the course of the next day, several parties arrived from
different directions. According to custom they were met
by warriors and conducted to the council lodge, where
they gave an account of what had occurred, which was
afterwards announced to the village by heralds, who went
round bawling out the news at the door of each lodge. These
occurrences contribute to enliven the village; yet inde-
pendently of these, it continually presents a busy and ani-
mated scene. Great numbers of men are engaged in the
different games of address and agility, others judging, or
looking on, and many employed in a variety of other ways.
There are [148] a great number of women constantly at
work in dressing buff aloe rcbes, which are placed on frames
before the lodges. One of the parties which arrived to
day, came from the snake nation, where they had stolen
horses. This arrested their employments for a moment,
the immediate friends and relatives of such as returned,

i8ii] Brackenridge* s ^Journal 1 1 9

spent the evening in rejoicing; while several females who
had lost a relation, retired to the hills behind the village,
where they continued to cry the whole afternoon.

In the evening they usually collect on the tops of the
lodges, where they sit and converse: every now and then
the attention of all is attracted by some old man who rises
up and declaims aloud, so as to be heard all over the vil-
lage. There is something in this like a quaker meeting.
Adair labors to prove the Indian tribes to be descended
from the Jews," I might here adduce this as an argument
in favor of these people being a colony of quakers. The
object of this harangue was to urge the people to treat the
strangers well. To have such amongst them, is regarded
as a matter of pride and exultation amongst the Indian
nations, and often gives rise to jealousies. [149] There is
hardly such invidious distinction as that of natives and for-
eigners. If a man brings any thing useful to the society
in which he happens to be, he is thought to confer a favour
on it — he is thought to increase the wealth or safety of the
tribe.

Monday lyih. This day arrived a deputation from the
Chienne nation, to announce that those people were on
their march to Arikara, and would be here in fifteen days.
I sometimes amused myself with the idea of forming a
gazette of the daily occurrences. We here see an inde-
pendent nation, with all the interests and anxieties of the
largest; how little would its history dififer from that of one
of the Grecian states! A war, a treaty, deputations sent
and received, warlike excursions, national mourning or
rejoicing, and a thousand other particulars, which consti-
tute the chronicle of the most celebrated people.

In the evening, about sundown, the women cease from

^ For the work of James Adair to which Brackenridge here refers, see J. Long's
Voyages, vol. ii of our series, note 31. — Ed.

120 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

their labors, and collect in little knots, and amuse them-
selves with a game something like jack-stones: five pebbles
are tossed up in a small basket, with which they endeavor
to catch them again as they fall.

[150] Tuesday i8th. Confidence had been somewhat re-
stored between the leaders of the two parties, since the
council in the village. Mr. Hunt having resolved to start
from this village, a bargain was made with Mr. Lisa, for
the sale of Hunt's boats and some merchandise; in
consequence of which, we recrossed the river in order to
make the exchange, after which we returned and encamped.
We are to set off to-morrow morning to the Mandan vil-
lages.

Before I bid adieu to Arikara, I must note some general
matters relating to their character and manners.

The men are large and well proportioned, complexion
somewhat fairer than that of Indians generally — usually
go naked : — the dress they put on seems intended more
for ornament than as essential; this consists of a sort of
cassoc or shirt, made of the dressed skin of the antelope,
and ornamented with porcupine quills, died a variety of
colors; a pair of leggings, which are ornamented in the same
way. A buffaloe hide dressed with the hair on, is then thrown
over the right shoulder, the quiver being [151] hung on the
other, if armed with a bow." They generally permit their
hair to grow long; I have, in one or two instances, seen it
reach to their heels, when increased by artificial locks of
horse hair; and is then usually divided into several braids,
matted at intervals, with a white tenacious clay; sometimes
it is rolled up in a ball, and. fixed on the top of the head.
They always have a quantity of feathers about them; those

** A warrior is seldom seen without his arms, even in the village. — His bow,
spear, or gun, is considered part of his dress, and to appear in public without them
is in some measure disgraceful. — Brackenridge.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 121

of the black eagle are most esteemed. They have a kind
of crown made of feathers, such as we see represented in
the usual paintings of Indians, which is very beautiful.
The swan is in most estimation for this purpose. Some
ornament the neck with necklaces made of the claws of
the white bear. To their heels they sometimes fasten foxes'
tails, and on their leggings suspend deers' hoofs, so as to
make a rattling noise as they move along. On seeing a
warrior dressed in all this finery, walking with his wife,
who was comparatively plain in her dress or ornaments,
I could not but think this was [152] following the order
of nature, as in the peacock, the stag, and almost all animals,
the male is lavishly decorated, while the female is plain and
unadorned. I intend this as a hint to some of our petit
maitres. The dress of the female consists of a long robe
made of the dressed skins of the elk, the antelope, or the
agalia, and ornamented with blue beads, and stripes of
ermine, or in its place, of some white skin. The robe is
girded round the waist with a broad zone, highly orna-
mented with porcupine quills, and beads. They are no
better off than were the Greeks and Romans, in what we
deem at present so essential, but like them they bathe them-
selves regularly, twice a day. The women are much fairer
than the men; some might be considered handsome any
where; and exceed the other sex in point of, numbers; the
dreadful consequence of the wars in which the nation is
constantly engaged. Polygamy is general, they have often
four or fi^ve wives. Their courtship and marriage resemble
that of most of the Indian nations; if the parties are mutually
agreeable to each other, there is a consultation of the fam-
ily; if this be also favourable, the father of the girl, or who-
ever [153] gives her in marriage, makes a return for the
present he had received from the lover — the match is then
concluded.

122 F^arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

They display considerable ingenuity and taste in their
works of art: this observation applies to all the American
nations, from the Mexicans to the most savage. Their arms,
household utensils, and their dresses, are admirably made.
I saw a gun which had been completely stocked by an In-
dian. A curious instance of native ingenuity which came
under my notice, ought not to be omitted. I was told one
day, of an old Indian who was making a blanket; I im-
mediately went to see him. To my surprise, I found an
old man, perfectly blind, seated on a stool before a kind of
frame, over which were drawn coarse threads, or rather
twists of buff aloe wool, mixed with wolf's hair; he had
already made about a quarter of a yard of a very coarse
rough cloth. He told me that it was the first he had at-
tempted, and that it was in consequence of a dream, in
which he thought he had made a blanket like those of the
white people. Here are the rudiments of weaving. They
make beautiful [154] jugs, or baskets, with osier, so close
as to hold water.

I observed some very old men amongst them — from
the purity of the air, and the healthiness of the climate it
is not surprising that human life should be drawn out to
a great length. The ravages of the small pox, that dread-
ful scourge to the Indians, has been felt by these people
in all its severity. These villages are the remains of seven-
teen distinct tribes. One day, in passing through the vil-
lage, I saw something brought out of a lodge in a buffaloe
robe, and exposed to the sun; on approaching, I discovered
it to be a human being, but so shrivelled up, that it had
nearly lost the human phys'*9gnomy: almost the only sign
of life discernible, was a continual sucking its hands, and
feeble moan like that of a young infant. On inquiring
of the chief, he told me that he had seen it so ever since he
was a boy. He appeared to be at least forty-five. It is

i8ii] Brackenridge' s "Journal 123

almost impossible to ascertain the age of an Indian when he
is above sixty; I made inquiries of several, who appeared
to me little short of an hundred, but could form no satis-
factory conjecture. Blindness is very common, arising
[155] probably from the glare of the snow, during a greater
part of the year. I observed the goitre, or swelled neck,
in a few instances.

Their government is oligarchical, but great respect is
paid to popular opinion. It is utterly impossible to be a
great man amongst them, without being a distinguished war-
rior; and though respect is paid to birth, it must be accom-
panied by other merit, to procure much influence. They are
divided into different bands or classes; that of the pheasant,
which is composed of the oldest men; that of the bear, the
buffaloe, the elk, the dog, &c. Each of these has its leader,
who generally takes the name of the class, exclusively.*'
Initiation into these classes, on arriving at the proper age,
and after having given proofs of being worthy of it; is at-
tended with great ceremony. The band of dogs, is con-
sidered the most brave and effective in war, being com-
posed of young men under thirty. War parties are usually
proposed by some individual warrior, and according to the
confidence placed in him, his followers are numerous or
otherwise. In these excursions they wander to a great dis-
tance, seldom venturing to return home without [156] a
scalp, or stolen horses. Frequently when unsuccessful they
**cast their robes," as they express it, and vow to kill the
first person they meet, provided he be not of their own
nation. In crossing the river, they use canoes made of the
buffaloe hide, or a few pieces of wood fastened together.
They usually leave some token, as a stake, which is marked
so as to convey some idea of their numbers, the direction

" This is doubtless some form of totemism: see J. Long's Voyages, vol. ii of our
series, note 56. — Ed.

1 24 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

which they have taken, &c. To avoid surprise, they al-
ways encamp at the edge of a wood ; and when the party is
small, they construct a kind of fortress, with wonderful ex-
pedition, of billets of wood, apparently piled up in a care-
less manner, but so arranged as to be very strong, and by
this means to withstand an assault from a much superior
force. They are excellent horsemen — they will shoot an
arrow at full speed, and again pick it up from the ground
without stopping: sometimes they will lean entirely upon
one leg, throwing their bodies to that side, so as to present
nothing but the leg and thigh, on the other. In pursuit
of the buffaloe, they will gallop down steep hills, broken
almost into precipices. Some of their horses are very j&ne,
run swiftly, and are [157] soon worn out, from the difficulty
of procuring food for them in winter, the smaller branches
of the cotton-wood tree being almost the only fodder which
they give them. Their hunting is regulated by the war-
riors chosen for the occasion, who urge on such as are tardy,
and repress often with blows, those who would rush on
too soon. When a herd of bufifaloe is discovered, they ap-
proach in proper order, within half a mile, they then separate
and dispose themselves, so as in some measure, to surround
them, when at the word, they rush forward at full speed,
and continue the chase as long as their horses can stand it:
a hunter usually shoots two arrows into a bufifaloe, and then
goes in pursuit of another; if he kills more than three in the
hunt, he is considered as having acquitted himself well.
The tongue is the prize of the person who has slain the
animal; and he that has the greater number, is considered
the best hunter of the day. Their weapons consist of guns,
war clubs, spears, bows, and lances. They have two kinds
of arrows, one for the purpose of the chase, and the other
for war; the latter differs in this particular, that the barb
or point is fastened so slightly, that when it enters

i8ii] Brackenridge*s yournal 125

the [158] body, it remains in, and cannot be drawn out
with the wood; therefore, when it is not in a vital part,
the arrow is pushed entirely through. They do not poison
them. Their bows are generally very small ; an elk's horn,
or two ribs of a buffaloe, often constitute the materials of
which they* are made. Those of wood are of willow, the
back covered with sinews. Their daily sports, in which,
when the weather is favorable, they are engaged from
morning till night, are principally of two kinds. A level
piece of ground appropriated for the purpose, (and beaten
by frequent use,) is the place where they are carried on.
The first is played by two persons, each provided with a
long pole; one of them rolls a hoop, which, after having
reached about two-thirds of the distance, is followed at
half speed, and as they perceive it about to fall, they cast
their poles under it; the pole on which the hoop falls, so
as to be nearest to certain corresponding marks on the hoop
and pole, gains for that time. This game excites great
interest, and produces a gentle, but animated exercise. The
other differs from it in this, that instead of poles, they have
short pieces of wood, with barbs at one end, and a [159] cross
piece at the other, held in the middle with one hand; but
instead of the hoop before mentioned, they throw a small
ring, and endeavor to put the point of the barb through it.
This is a much more violent exercise than the other."

With respect to their religion, it is extremely difficult,
particularly from the slight acquaintance I had with them,
to form any just idea. They have some notion of a su-
preme being, whom they call the ** Master of Life," but
they offer him no rational worship, and have but indistinct
ideas of a future state. Their devotion manifests itself in a
thousand curious tricks of slight of hand, which they call

* For a description of a similar game among the Mandan, see Smithsonian
Report, 1885, part ii, p. 304. — Ed.

126 "Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

magic, and which the vulgar amongst them believe to be
something supernatural. They are very superstitious. Be-
side their magic, or medicine lodge, in which they have
a great collection of magic, or sacred things, every one
has his private magic in his lodge, or about his person.
Any thing curious is immediately made an amulet, or a
talisman; and is considered as devoted or consecrated, so
as to deprive the owner of the power of giving it away.
The principal war chief lately took advantage [i6o] of
this. Having obtained a very fine horse, which he was
desirous of keeping, but fearing that some one might ask
him as a gift, and as to refuse would be unbecoming a
great man, who ought not to set his heart upon a matter
of so little importance, he announced that he had given,
or consecrated his horse to his magic or medicine! Some
parts of their superstitious devotions, or modes of worship,
are the most barbarous that can be imagined. I observed
a great number whose bodies were scarred and cut in the
most shocking manner; I was informed that this was done
in their devotion; that to shew their zeal, they sometimes
suspend themselves by the arms or legs, or the sides,
by hooks. I was shewn a boy, who had drawn two bufiFaloe
heads several hundred yards, by cords fixed in the fleshy
part of his sides. I might enumerate a variety of other
particulars, in which this strange self punishment is carried
to the greatest lengths.*^ They have frequent public holy
days, when the greater part of the village appears to desist
from labor, and dress out unusually fine. On these oc-
casions, each one suspends his private magic on a high
pole before his door; the painted [i6i] shields, quivers of
a variety of colors, scarlet cloth, and highly ornamented

*'"' George Catlin, the painter of Indians, described at some length the religious
mysteries and the self-torture of the Mandan tribe. His account was discredited,
but appears to have been substantially correct. See op. cit., pp. 349-383. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal i2j

buffaloe robes, which compose these trophies, produce a
very lively effect. I several times observed articles of some
value suspended on the trees. I was told, they often leave
their property in this manner without being under any
apprehension that any of the same tribe will touch it, pro-
vided that there be the least sign to shew that it is not lost.
A kind of superstition similar to that of the Druids, which
protected their offerings hung up in the woods.

Since the unfortunate affair of lieutenant Prior, these
people have shewn themselves friendly to the whites. Lieu-
tenant Prior had been sent in a boat, with twenty or thirty
men, to convey the Mandan chief to his village, after his
visit to the United States, in company with Lewis and
Clark. On arriving at the Arikara village, he was set upon,
and made his escape with great difi&culty, one half of his
little party being killed or wounded. The expedition of
the Missouri company, which ascended the next year,
demanded satisfaction for this outrage, and every concession
having been made [162] by the Arikaras, the matter was
adjusted. Since that time they have endeavored to keep
a good understanding with the whites, and express much
regret at the unfortunate occurrence, which, as is usual, they
disavow as the act of the nation, but declare it to have been
perpetrated by a bad chief, who would not listen to their
councils.

During my short stay amongst them, I endeavored to form
a vocabulary of such words as are most likely to be prim-
itive." I found a great diversity in the pronunciation,
which I discovered to be partly owing to the circumstance
of the present population being composed of the fragments
or remains of different tribes; but I was also informed by
the chief, that amongst the principal families there was

*' This, in the course of my peregrinations, has 'unfortunately, been mislaid.
— Brackenkidge.

128 Early Western Travels [Vol.6

a better language than that in use with the common peo-
ple. The slaves, of whom there is a much greater number
than I had supposed, and those of foreign tribes who have
domiciliated themselves here, speak also an inferior dialect.
[163] To give an account of the vices of these people,
would only be to enumerate many of the most gross which
prevail amongst us, with this difference, that they are prac-
tised in public without shame. The savage state, like the
rude uncultivated waste, is contemplated to most advantage
at a distance. Mr. Bradbury had been an enthusiast, as
most philanthropic Europeans are, on the subject of Indian
manners, and I was myself not a little inclined to the same
way of thinking, but now both agreed that the world would
loose but little, if these people should disappear before
civilized communities. In these vast plains, throughout
which are scattered so many lovely spots, capable of sup-
porting thousands such nations as the Arikara, or wander-
ing Sioux, a few wretches are constantly roaming abroad,
seeking to destroy each other. To return to the subject
of their moral characters — they have amongst them their
poor, their envious, their slanderers, their mean and crouch-
ing, their haughty and overbearing, their unfeeling and
cruel, their weak and vulgar, their dissipated and wicked;
and they have also, their brave and wise, their generous
and magnanimous, their rich and [164] hospitable, their
pious and virtuous, their kind, frank, and affectionate, and
in fact, all the diversity of characters that exists amongst
the most refined people; but as their vices are covered by
no veil of delicacy, their virtues may be regarded rather
as the effect of involuntary impulse, than as the result of
sentiment. In some respects they are extremely dissolute
and corrupt; whether this arises from refinement in vice, or
from the simplicity of nature, I cannot say; but much are they
mistaken who look for primitive innocence and simplicity

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal 129

in what they call the state of nature. It is true that an
intercourse with the whites, never fails to render these
people much worse than before; this is not by imparting
any new vices, but by presenting temptations which easily
overcome those good qualities, which *'sit so loosely about
them." Want of constancy, and uniformity of character,
is the defect universally remarked with regard to the In-
dians, and this naturally arises from the want of fixed
principles of virtue. One thing I remarked as constituting
the great difference between the savage and the civilized
state, their youth undergo no discipline, there are no schools,
[165] and the few instructions which are given by parents,
are directed only to the mere physical man, and have little
to do with the mind, unless it be to inculcate fortitude and
courage, or rather ferocity and thirst for blood: no genu-
ine virtues are cultivated and the evil propensities of the
individual are suffered to mature without correction, while
he wanders about a vagabond, responsible to no one for
the waste of time; like a young colt, he is considered as
unfit for employment until he attains his growth. The les-
sons of morality are never taught either in public or in
private; at least of that morality which instructs us how
to fulfil all the duties attached to our social relations, and
which regard us as candidates for a future and more happy
existence. Instead of such lessons of morality, the pre-
cepts first instilled into their hearts, are cruelty, murder,
and rapine. The first step the young savage is taught
to take, is in blood; and is it any wonder that when man-
hood nerves his arm, we should see him grasp the tomahawk
and the scalping knife, and his savage heart thirst for blood !
Amongst others of their customs which appeared to me
singular, I observed that it was [166] a part of their hospi-
tality, to offer the guest, who takes up his residence in their
lodges, one of the females of the family as a bedfellow;

130 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

sometimes even one of their wives, daughters, or sisters,
but most usually a maid-servant, according to the estima-
tion in which the guest is held, and to decline such offer
is considered as treating the host with some disrespect;
notwithstanding this, if it be remarked that these favours
are uniformly declined, the guest rises much higher in his
esteem. Self control, in the midst of temptations which
overpower the common mind, being thought, even amongst
these people, to indicate a superior character. Our common
boatmen soon became objects of contempt, from their loose
habits and ungovernable propensities. To these people, it
seemed to me that the greater part of their females, during
our stay, had become mere articles of traffic; after dusk,
the plain behind our tents, was crowded with these wretches,
and shocking to relate, fathers brought their daughters,
husbands their wives, brothers their sisters, to be offered
for sale at this market of indecency and shame. I was
unable to account for this [167] difference from any people
I had ever heard of; perhaps something may be attributed
to the inordinate passion which had seized them for our
merchandize. The silly boatmen, in spite of the endeavors
of the leaders of our parties, in a short time disposed of
almost every article which they possessed, even their blankets,
and shirts. One of them actually returned to the camp,
one morning entirely naked, having disposed of his last
shirt — this might truly be called la derniere chemisse de
Vamour.

Seeing the chief one day in a thoughtful mood, I asked
him what was the matter — ''I was wondering," said he,
''whether you white people have any women amongst you.'*
I assured him in the affirmative. ''Then," said he, "why
is it that your people are so fond of our women, one might
suppose they had never seen any before."
\rhis want of chastity among the Arikara was by no

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal 131

means universal — perhaps a more minute acquaintance
with them might have enabled me to explain the phenom-
enon: indeed from the remains of a singular exhibition,
which several of us witnessed, I was induced to believe
that Diana had not altogether yielded [168] the village
to the dominion of her rival goddess. On one of their
festive days, as we drew near the medicine lodge or temple,
we saw in front of the entrance, or door, a number of young
girls tricked out in all their finery of paint, beads, and
dresses of the antelope, agalia, or deer skins, red or white,
according to the taste of the wearer; their robes were richly
ornamented with porcupine quills, stained of various colors,
and with fringes, or borders, of silvery ermine. We ob-
served a cedar bough ,fixed in the earth on the top of the
lodge. Prizes of beads, vermillion, and scarlet cloth were
exhibited: and the old men who live in the temple to the
number of five or six, now proclaimed, as I was informed,
that whosoever amongst the young girls of Arikara had
preserved unsullied her virgin purity, might then ascend
the temple and touch the bough, and one of the prizes would
be given to her; that it was in vain to think of deceiving,
for the Manitoo, or Spirit, knowing all things, even their
secret thoughts, would most certainly reveal the truth; and
moreover, the young men were enjoined under the severest
denunciations, to declare all that might be within their
knowledge. Curiosity [169] was now much excited. In a
few moments, the daughter of the interpreter, (a French-
man who had resided upwards of twenty years,) a beauti-
ful girl of sixteen, came forward, but before she could
ascend to touch the bough, a young fellow stepped forth,
and said something, the amount of which I easily con-
jectured from its effect, for the young lady instantly shrunk
back confused and abashed, while the surrounding crowd
was convulsed with laughter. A pause ensued, which lasted

132 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

for some considerable time. I began to tremble for the
maidens of Arikara, when a girl of seventeen, one of the
most beautiful in the village, walked forward, and asked,
*' where is the Arikara who can bring any accusation against
me?" then touched the bough, and carried off the prize.
I feel a pleasure in adding, for the honor of the ladies of
Arikara, that others followed, though I did not take the
trouble of noting the number.

[170] CHAPTER VIII"

Proceed to the Mandan villages — A buffaloe hunt — Ar-
rival at the Mandan village.

On Wednesday tine igth, it was resolved by Lisa, to
leave one of his men to continue the trade with the Arikaras,
and then to continue his voyage. As a part of the price
of the goods bought from Hunt, was to be paid for in horses,
a party was sent by land to the company's fort at the Man-
dan village, for the purpose of bringing them. Mr. Brad-
bury, desirous of seeing the interior of the country deter-
mined to accompany them.

We sat off about eleven o'clock in the morning with a
favorable wind, but the weather rainy and disagreeable.
Having made fifteen miles, encamped. The moschetoes
more troublesome than they have yet been known — I am
informed that this is not usual on the Missouri, and is owing
to this being a wet season. Indeed, since our departure,
we have scarcely [171] had three days in succession with-
out very heavy rain.

Thursday 20th. Weather more pleasant, but the wind
during a part of the afternoon, on account of the course
of the river unfavorable. The water is at a very high

*• Notes upon the following subjects mentioned in this chapter are found in
Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our series: Sheheke, Mandan chief, note 92; Mis-
souri Fur Company's Mandan post, note 87. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s 'Journal 133

stage, and now rising rapidly. Having made five points,
or fifteen miles encamped. We continued our voyage on
Friday with a fine breeze, which continued the whole
day, and which enabled us to make an extraordinary run
of more than forty miles. The appearance of the country
thus far is very agreeable — handsome green hills, and fine
bottoms, with but little wood. The navigation much less
diflScult, we sailed along the edge of beautiful meadows,
clothed with grass about six inches high; the water is not
more than three feet below the top of the bank.

Saturday 2 2d. The favorable winds still continued, but
we found the river extremely crooked. We landed an hour
or two to kill some buffaloe, several were standing close to
the water's edge on a small bar covered with willows.
Great numbers of them are to be seen on the sides of the
hills. In viewing them at the [172] distance of six or eight
miles, they appear to be diminished to mere specks or dots,
which has a curious yet pleasing effect.

On the 23d, after proceeding a few miles, it was found
necessary to encamp, while we were assailed by a dreadful
storm, succeeded by a heavy rain. Towards evening it
cleared up, but a violent north west wind prevailing, it
was impossible for us to proceed. A party was formed and
it was resolved to go in pursuit of the buffaloe. On ascend-
ing the hills, which rise at the distance of a quarter of a mile
from the river, I discovered in every direction immense
herds of buffaloe, some reclining, or quietly feeding, and
many at such a distance as scarcely to be distinguishable
by the eye — Immediately before me lay a deep ravine
or hoUow, about two mUes in length, through which a small
stream seemed to take its course, bordered with shrubs,
and on the other side, the ground again rose with an ir-
regular ascent into a high plain, terminated by hills. In
this valley there appeared to be several thousand, chiefly

1 34 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

feeding. The question was now how to approach them
undiscovered, there was no bush, or tree, nothing behind
which we could conceal ourselves, [173] excepting the blocks
of granite, strewed over the plain. Should we alarm one
of these herds all the rest would start at the same time.
On looking towards the southern end of the valley, we
discovered that in this direction there was a space of half
a mile in which no buffaloes were to be seen; and that pass-
ing round the valley with the wind in our favor we might
steal along the brow of the hill on the other side and leaving
half of our hunters here, would be able to place them be-
tween two fires. In company with the American hunter
I set off and ran about a mile, having successfully passed
round the hollow, we next advanced with great caution.
Our approach was very much facilitated by a number of
small ravines which make into the valley. Having ad-
vanced as far as was intended, we stole down to the opening
of one of the ravines, and rising up, saw a large buffaloe
bull standing within a few yards of us; his body completely
exposed to view, but feeding with his head down; we took
aim over the intervening hillock, our rifles almost touch-
ing him — fired almost at the same moment, and brought
him instantly to the ground. Those of his companions
that were near him immediately [174] started and alarmed
the rest, and in a short time they were every where in motion.
We ran to an elevated point, and set up a shout in order
to drive them towards the river, but without success for
those of the valley and the side of the hill beyond it, made
towards us, at which we were at first somewhat alarmed,
lest the herd in moving in a crowd might run over us : they
however passed up the different ravines on each side. There
was something extremely pleasing in . the sight of these
armies of buffalo^all in motion as far as the eye could
distinguish in every direction. We succeeded in killing

i8ii] Brackenridge's youmal 135

another before they had passed us, and our comrades on
the other side of the valley killed two. Great numbers of
wolves were now seen in every direction; we could hardly
go forty yards from the bufifaloe, before a half a dozen
would shew themselves. It was amusing to see them peep-
ing over hillocks, while we pelted them with stones.

On our return to camp, the meat having been brought
in by the boatmen, we sat about preparing our feast. A
large fire was made, and each one cooked for himself.
Certainly ours was not a feast to be despised even by the
[175] epicure, although with no other seasoning than health
and exercise. As our biscuit had been spoiled two months
before, in consequence of being frequently wet, instead of
bread we roasted some of the liver on one stick, and a
choice morsel (for we had nothing but tit-bits,) on the
other. The flesh of the buffaloe is remarkably tender and
juicy, and highly flavored; it is universally allowed to sur-
pass that of the common ox. Of all the animals given to
satiate our carnivorous appetites, none can afford such a
feast as the buffaloe. The hump is a delicious morsel;
the tongue, the marrow, the tender loin, and the ribs are
all excellent. The hump is formed by a number of bones
in the shape of ribs, which rise on the back near the shoulders,
gradually increasing and then diminishing in length, on
which the fat and lean are finely mixed, and the meat ex-
tremely tender. The hump in a large ox, is about a foot
in length, (when separated from the back bone, to which
it is attached,) and six inches in breadth.

On the 24th, we proceeded on our voyage. This morn-
ing we had delightful weather. I could not help remarking
the clearness of the [i 76] air, and the enchanting blue of the
sky. Whether it is to be attributed to the Alpine height,
to which we have attained, or to the openness of the country,
which permits every breeze to have its full scope, and thus

136 Early Western Travels [Vol.6

chase away the vapors, I am not able to say. I have cer-
tainly not been misled by fancy. We are now two thou-
sand six hundred miles from the ocean; as the Missouri,
some distance above the Mandan villages, flows from the
west, it is probable that its descent is not so great as below:
so that allowing one foot per mile, we can be little short of
three thousand feet above the ocean. It is said, that on
the high plains of Switzerland, between the mountains,
the sky is observed to possess a deeper azure; the same
cause may produce the like effect on these plains. Here,
we are elevated above the fogs and mists of lakes and rivers,
and the sun does not transmit his rays through the white
medium of clouds. The light dress of vegetation, with
which these plains are clothed, may likewise be considered.
Where the vegetation is luxuriant, dense vapours arise
during the night; and noxious gases are produced, which
floating into the atmosphere, lessen its brightness [177] as
well as its purity. But, whatever may be the cause of the
superior beauty of the azure in the heavenly vault, I expe-
rienced a peculiar pleasure in contemplating it. The sun
beams seemed to have less fierceness than I had ever expe-
rienced, in fact, I could almost fancy myself in the midst of
enchanted scenes.

Continued the greater part of the day with the cordelle,
along the prairie. The country on either side, of a very
pleasant appearance, with a number of wooded points.

Tuesday 2^d [i. c, 2ph]. Hoisted sail this morning with a
fine breeze. At ten o'clock passed the remains of a Mandan
village, and at some distance espied a great number of
Indians on shore, moving down the river. We soon dis-
covered them to be Mandans. They sometimes go on
hunting parties by whole villages, as was the case at pres-
ent. They appeared to be about five hundred in number,
some on horseback, the greater part on foot. A numerous

i8ii3 Brackenridge' s Journal i 37

train of dogs were employed in dragging their baggage,
tent poles, &c. On the great hunting parties, the women
are employed in preserving the hides, drying the meat, and
making provisions to serve them during winter. Very [178]
little of the buffaloe is lost, for after taking the marrow,
they pound the bones, boil them, and extract the oil. We
stopped with them some time, made them a few presents
of tobacco and knives, and then proceeded. This evening,
the Mandan chief She-he-ke, who had accompanied Lewis
and Clark to the United States, came to us with his wife and
son, a small boy. He is a fiine looking Indian, and very
intelligent — his complexion fair, very little different from
that of a white man much exposed to the sun. His wife
had also accompanied him — has a good complexion and
agreeable features. They had returned home loaded with
presents, but have since fallen into disrepute from the ex-
travagant tales which they related as to what they had wit-
nessed ; for the Mandans treat with ridicule the idea of there
being a greater or more numerous people than themselves.
He is a man of a mild and gentle disposition — expressed a
wish to come and live amongst the whites, and spoke sensi-
bly of the insecurity, the ferocity of manners, and the ignor-
ance, of the state of society in which he was placed. He is
rather inclining to corpulency, a little talkative, which is
regarded [179] amongst the Indians as a great defect; add
to this, his not being much celebrated as a warrior; such
celebrity can alone confer authority and importance, or be
regarded meritorious in this state of society. Encamped
this evening on a beautiful meadow, the soil extremely rich.
Immediately beyond it, there are some high hills, and on
the points detached masses of granite and pebbles.

Wednesday 26th, Continued our voyage through a beau-
tiful country, on both sides of the river. In the afternoon
passed by all five of the Mandan villages, which are situ-

138 F.arly Western Travels [Vol. 6

ated upon high open plains, the village of She-he-ke, di-
vided from the others by a handsome stream. The inhab-
itants had gathered to the bank to see us, several waded
into the water, but returned when we beckoned to them
not to approach. The men were generally naked, the
women dressed according to their age or quality, from the
coarse elk skin, to the elegant agalia. It was late at night
before we reached the fort of the Missouri Company, which
is situated above all the villages, and sixteen hundred
and forty miles from the mouth of the Missouri, and in lati-
tude 47°. 13'. N.

[180] CHAPTER IX

Mandan villages — Return to Arikara — Scene after a
battle.

We had now reached the utmost point of our voyage, for
though it had been at first intended to proceed to the cata-
racts of the Missouri, for the purpose of attempting a treaty
with the Blackfoot Indians, the information received from
Mr. Henry had produced a change in the intentions of Lisa.
He resolved to wait for him at this place, or at the Arikara
village; and, in the mean while, arrange the afifairs of the
company.

In the morning, we walked to the fort of the company,
about two hundred yards from the bank of the river. It
is a small triangular enclosure with bastions. Here I found
Mr. Bradbury, who had arrived the day before. He had
travelled about one hundred and fifty miles by land, and
describes the country through which he passed, at least the
distance of eight or ten miles from the river, [181] as very
handsome; it is a succession of beautiful meadows, with
some wood along the water-courses. On approaching the
river it becom^^ore broken and hilly.

For some distance from the fort, the upland is washed

i8ii] Brackenridge' s Journal 139

into ravines, and is stripped of its soil, presenting nothing
but bare heaps of earth or clay. Many of these clay hills
are completely detached from the upland, and washed by
heavy rains into a variety of curious and fantastic shapes,
generally of whitish color, though intermixed with strata
of various hues. The ledge of limestone, upon which the
earth or clay reposes, shews itself in many places, but moul-
dering and crumbling, from the action of the frosts and rain.
This limestone constitutes at least one half in the wash-
ings which are carried to the Missouri; and similar appear-
ances, are to be met with on all its tributary streams, from
this upwards, as well as on many below. Some of these
clay hills, at the first glance, look like towers or circular
buildings, with domes and cupolas; and what contributes
to this, the top of some of them are covered with a
beautiful creeping vine, or evergreen, of a species, which
Mr. Bradbury [182] informs me, is described by Mishaux Tn^c^^^^^,^^^
as growing on the lakes." A short distance below the fort,
the primitive ground, or upland, is washed into a steep
precipice by the river; here we examined a strata of coal,
of a good quality, and about eighteen inches in thickness.
Lisa informed me, that on his first voyage up the Missouri,
he observed smoke issuing from a fissure of this bluff, and
that on putting down a stick, fire was communicated. On
the most attentive examination we could discover nothing
of this. Amongst other objects which attracted our atten-
tion, we observed quantities of petrified wood lying about
on the surface of the clay bills. I traced a whole tree, the
stump still remaining about three feet high, and not less
than four in diameter. The bark was in general decayed,
but we could easily find the position of the trunk and of
its branches, as it had fallen. This fact seemed to me the

'" This vine is a species of juniper, which Michauz classifies as Juniperus
procumhens. — Ed.

140 "Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

more extraordinary, as the trees which now grow even in
the richest bottom land, are very small, few exceeding a
foot in diameter, and seldom more than forty feet in height;
while on the upland, the soil has scarcely sufl&cient strength
to give nourishment to a delicate [183] grass, and here and
there to a few slender shrubs. These facts may afford a
subject of amusing inquiry, to those who have leisure for
such investigation. Mr. Bradbury is assiduously employed
in collecting specimens, and in pursuing his botanical re-
searches; but neither he nor Mr. Nuttal have much success
in collecting minerals.

While wandering about in company with Nuttal one day,
on entering a grassy piece of ground we observed a number
of ripe strawberries. This was the first intimation that any
of them grew in this part of the world, and was a pleasing
treat. The season of the year, being now the month of
July, rendered it still more unexpected.

On the Fourth of July, we had something like a celebra-
tion of this glorious anniversary. The two principal chiefs
happened to be with us; the One ey^d, and the Black shoe.
The former is a giant in stature, and if his one eye had been
placed in the middle of his forehead, he might have passed
for a cyclop." His huge limbs and gigantic frame, his
bushy hair shading his coarse visage and savage features,
with his one eye flashing fire, constituted him a [184] fearful
demon. He sways, with unlimited control, all these villages,
and is feared by all the neighboring nations. I remarked
that on one or two occasions he treated She-he-ke, with
great contempt — Lisa having referred to something said by
that chief, **What," said this monster, **What! does that
bag of lies pretend to have any authority here?"" He is

" For the chief One-Eyed (Le Borgne), see Bradbury's Travels, vol. v of our
series, note 98. — Ed.

" She-he-ke is a fat man, extremely talkative, and no great warrior. — Bsace-

ENRIDGE.

i8ii] Brackenridge* s Journal 141

sometimes a cruel and abominable tyrant. A story was
related to me of his cruelty, which has in it something of a
more refined tragic nature, than we usually meet with
amongst these people. Having fallen in love, (for even
Polyphemus felt the influence of this god, who spares neither
giants nor common men,) with the wife of a young warrior,
he went to his lodge during his absence, and carried her off
by force. The warrior on his return, repaired to the One
eyd demon, and demanded his wife, but instead of receiving
redress, was put to death, while the wretched object of the
dispute was retained in the embraces of her ravisher. The
mother of the young warrior whose only child he was, be-
came frantic, lost her senses from [185] excess of grief, and
now does nothing but go about reviling him, and loading
him with her curses: yet such is the superstitious venera-
tion (by the by it deserves a better name on this occasion)
for unhappy objects of this kind, that this chief, great as
he is, dare not lay his hand on her, even should she haunt
him like one of the Euminides, wherever he may appear.

We made several excursions to the villages below, the
nearest about six miles off; but as they differ but little from
those of the Arikara, I will give no particular description
of them. I noticed but one thing as remarkable. About
two miles on this side of the first village, my attention was
attracted by a number of small scaffolds, distributed over
several acres of ground on the slope of a hill. I soon discov-
ered that this was a depository of the dead. The scaffolds
were raised on forks about ten feet, and were suflSciently
wide to contain two bodies; they were in general covered
with blue and scarlet cloth, or wrapt in blankets and buffaloe
robes; we did not approach near enough to examine closely,
this frightful Golgotha, or place of human skeletons, but
we could see a great number of valuable articles which had
been left [186] as offerings to the manes of the deceased.
Several crows and magpies, were perched upon them; we

142 Early Western Travels [Vol.6

could not but experience a sensation of horror, when we
thought of the attraction which brought these birds to this
dismal place. Some of the scaffolds, had nearly fallen
down, perhaps overturned by the wind, or the effect of
decay, and a great number of bones were scattered on the
ground underneath. This mode of exposing the dead has
something peculiarly horrible in it. The wolves of the
prairie, the birds of the air, and even the Indian dogs, are
attracted to the place, and taught to feed on human flesh.
This custom prevails amongst all the wandering tribes; but
amongst the Arikara, the dead are deposited in a grave
as with us, which I think clearly proves their origin to be
different from that of their neighbours; for there is nothing,
in which men in all ages and countries, have manifested more
solicitude, than in the treatment of the remains of their
deceased friends.

On the sixth of July we set off from the fort to return
to the Arikara village, where we arrived in two days after
without any material occurrence. We found Mr. Hunt
waiting the [187] coming of the Chiennes, to complete his
supply of horses.

A few days after our arrival, a great commotion was heard
in the village, before daylight; ignorant of what might occa-
sion it, and from this alone, somewhat alarmed, when we
recollected our situation, amongst beings in whom we had
but little reliance, we hastily rose and ascended the plain
in order to ascertain the cause. The interpreter, shortly
after came to us with the information, that it was a party
of three hundred men, on their return, after a battle with
a party of Sioux the day before, in which they had been
victorious, with the loss of two or three killed, and ten or
twelve wounded, and that they were then within a few
miles of the village, none but the chief of the party having
come in. By this our minds were quieted. We waited

i8ii] Brackenridge's yournal 143

with anxiety for their approach to the village, which we
were informed would be made with considerable ceremony;
that they had halted within a few miles of the place, to
prepare themselves for a formal and splendid entry, and
that a great deal of Indian finery had been sent, to enable
the warriors to decorate themselves to the best advantage.

[188] It was nearly eleven o'clock in the day, before their
approach was announced ; in the meanwhile a stilly suspense
reigned throughout the village, all sports and business sus-
pended, and resembling a holiday in one of our towns. We
discovered them at length, advancing by the sound of their
voices over a hill, about a mile below our encampment.
In a short time they made their appearance; at the same
time, the inhabitants of the town moved out on foot to meet
them. I accompanied them for some distance, and then
took a favorable position where I might have a full view
of this singular scene. They advanced in regular pro-
cession, with a slow step and solemn music, extending nearly
a quarter of a mile in length, and separated in platoons,
ten or twelve abreast, the horsemen placed between them,
which contributed to extend their line. The different
bands, of which I have spoken, the buffaloe, the bear,
the pheasant, the dog, marched in separate bodies, each
carrying their ensigns, which consisted of a large spear, or
bow, richly ornamented with painted feathers, beads, and
porcupine quills. The warriors were dressed in a variety
of ways, some [189] with their cincture and crown of feathers,
bearing their war clubs, guns, bov/s and arrows, and painted
shields: each platoon having its musicians, while the whole
joined in the song and step together, with great precision.
In each band there were scalps fastened to long poles: this
was nothing more than the few scalps they had taken, di-
vided into different locks of hair, so as to give the semblance
of a greater number. The appearance of the whole, their

144 Biarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

music, and the voices of so many persons, had a pleasing
and martial effect. The scene which took place, when
their friends and relations from the village, mingled with
them, was really affecting; the pen of a Fenelon would not
be disgraced in attempting the description of it. These,
approached with song and solemn dance, as the warriors
proceeded slowly through their ranks: it was a meeting of
persons connected by the most tender relations — the scene
would baffle description. Fathers, mothers, wives, brothers,
sisters, caressing each other, without interrupting for a
moment, the regularity and order of the procession, or the
solemnity of the song and step ! I was particularly touched,
with the tenderness of a woman [190] who met her son, a
youth reported badly wounded, but who exerted himself to
keep on his horse, and from his countenance one would
have supposed nothing had been the matter with him. She
threw her arms round him and wept aloud. Notwithstand-
ing this, the young man expired, shortly after being brought
to the medicine lodge; for it is the custom to carry such as
have been wounded in battle, to be taken care of in this
place, at the public expense. As they drew near the village,
the old people, who could barely walk, withered by extreme
age, came out like feeble grasshoppers, singing their shrill
songs, and rubbing the warriors with their hands. The
day was spent in festivity by the village in general, and in
grief by those who had lost their relatives. We saw a num-
ber of solitary females, on the points of the hills round the vil-
lage, lamenting in mournful wailings, the misfortunes which
had befallen them. For the two succeeding days the village
exhibited a scene of festivity; all their painted shields and
trophies, were raised on high poles near the lodges, and all
the inhabitants dressed out in their finery — all their labors
and sports were suspended, and [191] the whole joined in
the public demonstrations of joy, while music, songs, and

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 145

dances were hardly intermitted for a moment. The temple,
or medicine lodge, was the principal scene of their dancing.
I entered with the crowd, and found a spacious building,
sufficient to contain five or six hundred persons. I found to
my surprise that the dancers were all females, with arms of
the warriors in their hands, and wearing some parts of the
dress of the men. They performed in a circular inclosure,
some continually leaving it and others supplying their
places. The orchestra was composed of ten or fifteen men,
with drums, bladders filled with shot, deer's hoofs, affixed
to rods, and shaken, some striking/'upon war clubs with
sticks; the whole accompanied with the voice. The old
men of the temple were continually going round the in-
closure, and raising their shrill voices; probably saying
something to excite and encourage. Rude as this may be
supposed to have been, there was yet something pleasing;
their music was by no means discordant, and exceedingly
animated. It would be tedious to enumerate the various
ways in which their festivity displayed itself. We see a
nation, actuated [192] by the same feelings, and roused by
the same incidents as are experiejiced by the most powerful
on earth. How much superior does this little independent
tribe appear, to the rich, but mean and spiritless province
or colony, where nothing but individual interests are felt ! —
where the animating sentiments of national glory and re-
nown, and all the vicissitudes of national calamity or pros-
perity, are never felt by it as by one man !

I must not omit a piece of hospitality, which exhibited
more refinement than I had expected to meet with. Several
of the principal chiefs came amongst us, and selecting each
two or three, invited us to their lodges to partake of the
feast. This was somewhat in the stile of an invitation to
dine: I had the honor of being invited by the Grey eyes, the
leader of the war party. I found various dishes, of buffaloe.

1 46 FiUrly Western Travels [Vol. 6

of dog meat, and of homony prepared with marrow. I
had no inclination to touch the dog meat, although regarded
as a great delicacy. During the repast, six young men en-
tertained us with music; a]ieY the cloth was removed, or
rather the dishes, several women made their appearance,
the band struck up, and the dance [193] was begun. One
of the dancers, an old woman, every now and then recited
something which appeared to amuse the company very
much, and called forth loud laughter. When the dance
was over, the chief exhibited to me a number of dressed
buffaloe robes, on which he had painted his different battles.
The design was exceedingly rude, such as I have seen on
the rocks of the Ohio. To represent the path of horse or
foot-men, he had simply represented their tracks. There
was nothing like hieroglyphic painting, or any mark which
could convey an idea of the time when the action occurred."

[194] CHAPTER X

Set off to return — Battle of buffaloes — Fort Clark — Ar-
rival at St. Louis

By this time, the curiosity which first prompted me to
undertake this voyage, being amply gratified, J, began to
feel a strong desire of returning to civilized pursuits. My
habits were not formed to this wild, irregular existence,
and I began to wish for a return with much anxiety.
Lisa was disposed to second my wishes; he had resolved
to load with skins two of the boats purchased from
Hunt, to put six men in each, and to give me the command
of them. Mr. Bradbury gladly embraced this opportunity
of returning, and put on board all his boxes of plants and
his collection of specimens. About the last of July, with

" For a representation of painted robes, see Smithsonian Report, 1885, part ii,
pp. 397-406. On picture-writing in general, consult Mallery, "Picture-Writing
of American Indians," Bureau of Ethnology Report, 1888-89. — Ed.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s youmal 147

joyful hearts, we bid adieu to the village of Arikara. Lisa
gave me particular directions not to stop on account of any
Indians, and if possible, to go day and night. The river
was now extremely [195] high, and with six oars, we were
able to make little short of twelve miles an hour.

The first day, weather uncommonly fine, we passed the
Chienne river, and continued under way sometime after
night; but considering this not altogether safe, we thought
it prudent to lie by until daylight. Early the next morning
we reached the great bend. Vast numbers of buffaloes were
seen at both sides; as this was near the season when the
bulls seek the society of the cows, for at other times they
are never seen in the same herd; the most tremendous bel-
lowing was heard on every side. The country, from the
Mandan villages thus far, about four hundred miles, is
beautiful, and the soil of the river bottoms rich. The pro-
portion of wood is about the same as would be suffered to
remain if the land were in the highest state of cultivation:
but the upland is entirely bare, and the traveller might go
many miles before he would come to another stream where
any but dwarf trees or shrubs might be seen. The wind
rising, we were compelled to remain in the bend during
the whole afternoon. On the N. E. side, the river is lined
for the whole distance, by bluffs, nearly bare, [196] and cut
up into numerous gullies; cherries, currants, gooseberries,
and dwarf plum trees, are seen along the shore. On the
S. W. side, there is a tract of bottom land the whole way,
and better wooded than any between this and the Mandan
village. The islands, which are met with at the distance of
every few miles, are all surrounded by cedar or cotton-wood,
but the inside are meadows.

The next day we passed the White river, which appears
to be about the size of the Chienne, each of which
is as large as the Alleghany or Monongahela, and navi-

148 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

gable to a great distance. No doubt, in time, towns will
be built at the confluence of those rivers, as is the case
on the Ohio at this day. With Mr. Bradbury, I amused
myself in making remarks upon the appearance of different
spots, as we glided rapidly past them; seated on the stern
of the boat from morning till night, we had no other mode
of passing the time. At no great distance below White
river, the Black bluffs begin — a barren and miserable coun-
try for nearly an hundred miles along the river: there are
scarcely any bottoms, and the bluffs in most places without
even a covering of [197] grass. What the country may be,
at some distance from the river, I do not know; but certainly
as it respects the margin of the stream, I see no likelihood
of any settlements ever being formed along it; there must
consequently be a hiatus between the settlements which
may hereafter be made above, and those below. Yet we
contemplated this part of the country with much pleasure, for
its wild and romantic appearance. Descending in the middle
of the river, we had a much better view than when we came
up, being then compelled by the swiftness of the current to
choose either one side or the other. In some places, the
hills rose to the height of mountains; nothing was wanting
but some old ruined castles, to complete the sombre, yet
magnificent amphitheatric landscapes. It contributed much
to our amusement, to observe the herds of buffaloe, ascend-
ing and descending by a winding path.

Towards evening the sky became dark and lowering, the
hollow sounding wind, and the feeble distant flashes of light-
ning, with a frightful redness around the edges of the horizon,
foretold an approaching storm. Our oarsmen [198] exerted
themselves to their utmost, to reach some woody point,
behind which we might seek a shelter. But in vain — the
bleak and dreary bluffs continued on each side, and the
lurid darkness of the coming storm was fast obscuring

i8ii] Brackenridge* s journal 149

what remained of daylight. It was thought prudent to land
in a little recess of the bluffs, the best the moment would
permit us to choose; but the wind had full scope, as we were
in the midst of a long reach. We were not long in suspense.
The flashes of lightning became every moment more vivid,
and the thunder, in tremendous peals, seemed to shake the
earth. A dreadful gale ensued, which threatened every mo-
ment to dash our little barques to pieces, or whelm them
in the waves: and called forth our utmost exertions to pre-
serve them. For nearly an hour, it was found necessary
to hold our blankets to the sides of the boats, to prevent
them from filling. Our strength was almost exhausted with
fatigue, when the violence of the wind abated, and was suc-
ceeded by a heavy rain, which poured upon us the whole
night. Had our boats sunk we should have lost every thing,
and most probably have perished. For myself, I was ac-
customed [199] to these things; but I felt for my friend Brad-
bury. Poor old man, the exposure was much greater than
one of his years could well support. His amiable ardor in
the pursuit of knowledge, did not permit him for a moment
to think of his advanced age ; and wherever he may be, (for
I have not heard from him for several years,) he carries
with him the warmest wishes of my heart.

The next day we passed the Poncas village. The inhab-
itants had gone into the plains. In the evening when within
a few miles of a point above the isle a Bon homme, our ears
were assailed by a murmuring noise. As we drew near it
grew to a tremendous roaring, such as to deafen us. On
landing we discovered the grove crowded with buffaloe, the
greater part engaged in furious combat — the air filled with
their dreadful bellowing. A more frightful sight cannot
easily be imagined. Conceive several thousand of these
furious animals, roaring and rushing upon each other, pro-
ducing a scene of horror, confusion, and fierceness, like the

150 Karly Western Travels [Vol. 6

fight of armies: the earth trembled beneath their feet, the
air was deafened, and the grove was shaken with the shock
of [200] their tremendous battle. I am conscious that with
many, I run the risk of being thought to indulge in romance,
in consequence of this account: but with those who are
informed of the astonishing number of the buffaloe, it will
not be considered incredible. We soon discovered that a
herd of males had broken in amongst a number of females
and that these were the cause of a conflict, which raged with
unparalleUed fury. We fired amongst them but without pro-
ducing much effect; we then embarked and proceeded on
our voyage. On the hills in every direction they appeared
by thousands. Late in the evening we saw an immense herd
in motion along the sides of the hill, at full speed: their
appearance had something in it, which, without incurring
ridicule, I might call sublime — the sound of their foot-
steps, even at the distance of two miles, resembled the rum-
bling of distant thunder.

The next morning great numbers of bufifaloe were seen
swimming the river, we frequently steered amongst them,
and fired on them through wantonness, which I could not
restrain, however blameable. The weather was delightful,
and we had an extraordinary [201] run of one hundred and
forty-two miles from daylight till dark. In the evening we
passed the grave of Floyd, and for a moment we thought it
proper to

" suspend the dashing oar.

To bid his gentle spirit rest."

At the Maha village we found no one. This was not dis-
agreeable to us, as we supposed the Big Elk, who is a chief
of great celebrity, would not be disposed to treat us well, in
consequence of the neglect to pay him our respects in ascend-
ing. From the Poncas to the Mahas, the bottoms are wider,

i8ii] Brackenridge' s 'Journal 151

and better wooded than above, but the upland much the
same. We found the lowlands almost every where under
water — were in consequence compelled this evening to en-
camp on some drift wood. It was dangerous to proceed
after night on account of the number of trees fixed in the
bottom of the river, and besides in almost every bend there
were a number which had fallen in : even in the day time
there was frequently great difficulty in passing along, we
several times narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces. The
arks, or flat boats, in use on the Ohio and [202] Mississippi,
could not possibly navigate this river.

The foUoviring day we passed the Blackbird hill, and the
river Platte. The navigation in this part is much more
dangerous than above, from the number of trees fixed in
the bottom. The bottoms are also much wider, and better
wooded; in some places for twenty miles and upwards, we
were out of sight of the high lands: but the low grounds were
every where inundated. The water rushed into the woods
with great velocity, and in bends it poured over the gorge
into the river again; a sheet of water sometimes for a mile,
flowed over the bank, forming singular cascades of eighteen
inches in height.

In something more than two days afterwards, we arrived
at Fort Clark, having come a thousand miles in eight or
nine days, without meeting a living soul. Here we were
treated politely by the officers. Mr. Sibly, the factor, had
returned but a few days before, from a journey to the interior,
and shewed us specimens of salt, which he had procured at
the salines, on the Arkansas.

[203] We arrived at St. Louis early in August, having
made fourteen hundred and forty miles in little better than
fourteen days. Here we experienced all the pleasure of a
safe return after an absence of nearly five months. I was

152 Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

much gratified with my excursion and if there be any thing
in this rude and hasty diary, to please my friends, that grat-
ification will be more than doubled.

About the latter end of October, Lisa returned to St.
Louis. Mr. Henry had joined him at the Arikara village,
having passed the mountains early in the spring, and having
encountered incredible sufiFerings and dangers. Lisa had
left trading establishments with the Sioux, below the Cedar
island, as well as with the Mandans, and Arikaras. Mr.
Nuttal, who had chosen to remain sometime longer with
Lisa, had also returned.

The party of Mr. Hunt had set off for its destination on the
Columbia.

[204] This immense tract of country has now become
the theatre of American enterprise. There prevails amongst
the natives west of the mountains, a spirit of wild adventure,
which reminds us of the fictitious characters of Ariosto.
The American hunters constitute a class, different from
any people known to the east of the mountains. The life
which they lead is exceedingly fascinating. Their scene
ever changing — ever presenting something new. Con-
fined by no regular pursuit — their labor is amusement. I
have called the region watered by the Missouri and its trib-
utaries, THE PARADISE OF HUNTERS; it is indeed to them a
paradise. I have been acquainted with several, who, on
returning to the settlements, became in a very short time dis-
satisfied, and wandered away to these regions, as delightful
to them, as are the regions of fancy to the poet.

"Theirs the wild life, in frolick still to range,
From toil to rest, and joy in every change."

APPENDIX"

[/ extract the jollowing from the ^^ Views of Louisiana,'^ to
assist the reader in forming a general idea of that inter-
esting portion of the American empire.} "

CHAPTER III

Face of the country — Change which a part has probably
undergone — Climate — Extent and importance.

Tms extensive portion of North America, has usually
been described from a small part which is occupied by the
settlements; as though [224] it were limited to the borders of
the Mississippi, as Egypt is confined to the vicinity of the
Nile. Some represent it, in general description, as a low flat
country, abounding in swamps and subject to inundation.
Others speak of it as one vast wilderness;

' ' Missouri marches through his worid of woods. "

BARLOW.

If Louisiana were to be described like other countries, not
from a particular section, but from the appearance of the
whole, combined in a general view, we should say, that it is
an extensive region of open plains and meadows, inter-
spersed with bare untillable hUls, and having some resem-
blance to the Steppes of Tartary, or the Saharas of Africa, but

" Brackenridge includes in his appendix, matter which is also given by Brad-
bury (vol. V of our series), and which therefore is here omitted: ist, Sibley's journey
to the salines, incorporated by Bradbury in the text of his journal, pp. 191-194.
2d, extract from the Missouri Gazette, on voyage of the Astorians — Bradbury, ap-
pendix iii. 3d, oration of Big Elk — Bradbury, appendix ii. — Ed.

" Brackenridge in the early part of 181 1 wrote some articles on Louisiana for
periodical publication. Thfese he afterwards revised and enlarged, and incorpo-
rated in a volume entitled Views of Louisiana (Pittsburgh, 1814). From this he
has extracted chapter iii, to include in the appendix to the journal. See preface
to the present volume. — Ed.

1 54 EiUrly Western Travels [Vol 6

without the morasses and dull uniformity of the one, or
the dreary sterility of the others. The tracts lying on the
great rivers, it is true, constitute the most valuable parts of
Louisiana; but these, in geographical extent, are very incon-
siderable, when compared with the remainder. They are
principally on the Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red
river; and are vallies, seldom exceeding ten or twelve miles
in width, [225] of a soil exceedingly rich and productive, but
much interspersed with lakes, and refluent currents, or
bayous. To give a more perfect and satisfactory view of
this country, it will be convenient to examine it under three
divisions.

1 . The regions beyond the settlements.

2. The territory of the Missouri.

3. The state of Louisiana.

Volney has properly called the country drained by the
Mississippi and its waters, a valley; but it is to be observed,
that the western side is nearly three times as large as the
other, and traversed by much more considerable rivers:
and the mountains which enclose it on the west and south-
west, are of a much greater magnitude than the Alleghanies.

To pursue some plan in these views, I propose to take
up the first book, with some general description of Louisiana,
its rivers, soil and productions, and to give in the next book,
a more detailed account of the territory of the Missouri, and
of the state of Louisiana —

The Rocky Mountains are without doubt a continuation
of the Andes. Their course is nearly north and south; in
width and elevation, some of them are little inferior to the
[226] mountains of South America. There are a number of
peaks of immense height, and covered with perennial snows.
Their highest elevation, (which may be considered the table
land of North America,) is not further north than the 41°
of lat. It is from this quarter that many of our greatest

i8ii] Brackenridge's 'Journal 155

rivers take their rise, and flow in opposite directions;" the
Colorado of California, Rio del Norte, the Arkansas, the
Platte, and the Roche Jaune, (yellow stone.) It will be to
the geologist an interesting work, to trace the various ridges,
connexions, spurs and dependencies of these mountains.
There is a long chain of hills, which generally separate the
waters of the Missouri from those of the Arkansas and
Mississippi, and which are commonly called the Black moun-
tains. The hills in the White river country, and those west
of the Mississippi, towards the head of the St. Francis and
the Maramek, so abundant in minerals, may be depen-
dencies of the Black mountains. There are high rugged hills,
approaching to mountains, between the upper part of the
Washita river and the Arkansas, of which [227] some account
may be found in Hunter and Dunbar's voyage up the
Washita."

Taking the distance from the Mississippi to the mountains,
to be about nine hundred miles, of the first two hundred
miles, the larger proportion is fit for settlements. There is
a great deal of well timbered land and the soil is generally
good ; this quality, however, diminishes as we ascend north,
where the soil becomes unproductive and almost barren,
and as we advance westward the land becomes more bare
of woods. For the next three hundred miles the country
can scarcely be said to admit of settlements; the wooded
parts form but trifling exceptions to its general appearance,
and are seldom found except in the neighbourhood of streams;
we may safely lay it down as a general remark, that after

" See Pike's Journal. — Brackenridge.

Comment by Ed. — Pike, Account of Expeditions to Sources of Mississippi,
and through Western Parts of Louisiana . . . during the years iSoj, l8o6, and
1807 (Baltimore, 1810); new edition, Coues ed. (New York, 1895).

" The Journal of William Dunbar and Dr. Hunter up the Red and Washita
rivers was published in Lewis and Clark, Statistical Account (London, 1807),
pp. 74-116. — Ed.

156 Rarly Western Travels [Vol. 6

the first hundred miles, no timber is found on the upland
except it be pine or cedar. The rest of the country is made
up of open plains of immense extent, chequered with wav-
ing ridges which enable the traveller to see his journey of
several days before him. Yet a great proportion of the
soil would bear cultivation, the river bottoms, being gener-
ally fine, and many spots truly [228] beautiful: there are
other places, however, barren in the extreme, producing noth-
ing but hyssop and prickly pears. The same description
will suit the rest of the country to the Rocky mountains;
except that it is more mountainous, badly watered, and a great
proportion entirely barren.** In the two last divisions the
bodies of land fit for settlements, are so distant from each
other, that there is- scarcely any probability of any being
formed for centuries, if ever.

A great proportion of the country watered by the Mis-
souri and its tributary streams, appears to have undergone
some wonderful change, from causes not easy to ascertain;
the influence of fire is however evident. I have seen in
places, banksr'of clay burnt almost to the consistence of brick;
of this kind, there is above the Poncas village what is called
the tower, a steep hill one hundred and fifty feet in height,
and four or five hundred in circumference: it is so hard as
not to be affected by [229] the washing of the rains. Large
masses of pumice are seen near these places, and frequently
in the high bluffs of the river banks. These appearances
were formerly attributed to the existence of volcanoes on
the Missouri, but they are now generally supposed to be the
effects of coal banks continuing a long time on fire. I am
well satisfied that this fossil abounds in every part of the
great valley of the Mississippi. Many of the river hills

'* There are extensive tracts of moving sands similar to those of the African
deserts. Mr. Makey informed me that he was several days in passing over one of
these between the Platte and the Missouri, and near the mountains; there was no
sign of vegetation. — Brackensidge.

i8ii] Brackenridge' s "Journal 157

present the appearance of heaps of clay, great quantities of
which, on the melting of the snows, and in heavy rains, are
precipitated and carried to the principal river. This clay
is of a grey color, extremely tenacious, being mixed with a
large proportion of calcarious earth; the incumbent soil
having been first carried away; the rock on which it re-
posed being laid bare to the frost and sun, and perhaps
affected by the burning of coal banks near it, gradually
crumbled and united with the clay. In taking up a handful,
one may pick out pieces of gypsum, (sulphat of lime) some of
half an ounce weight. Near these spots are usually found
glaubers salt, (sulphat of soda) and common salt, ooz-
ing with water out of the ground, and crystallized [230] on
the surface. The most remarkable fact, is the appear-
ance on these heaps of clay, of the remains of trees, in a
state of petrifaction, and some of enormous size. Frag-
ments may be every where picked up, but stumps of four
or five feet in height, perfectly turned to stone, and the
trunks of tall trees, may be seen and traced. This is
extraordinary in a country, where even in the richest
alluvions the timber attains but a stinted growth.

From these facts an ingenious theorist might conjec-
ture, that the Missouri has not always brought down in
its channel, that astonishing quantity of earth which it
does at the present day. It is probable that other causes,
as in Tartary, might have operated in preventing the growth
of woods, in a great proportion of this western region;
but something of a different kind must have effected a
change in this country, which apparently was once covered
with trees. What immense quantities of the earth must
have been carried off to form the great alluvions of the
Mississippi, by means of the Arkansas, Red river, and
chiefly from the Missouri, not to mention the vast quanti-
ties lost in the gulf of Mexico. The result of a [231] calcu-

158 'Early Western Travels [Vol. 6

lation would be curious. The marks of this loss, are very
evident in the neighborhood of nearly all the rivers which
discharge themselves into the Missouri above the Platte.
Some of the appearances may rank amongst the greatest
natural curiosities in the world. The traveller on enter-
ing a plain, is deceived at the first glance by what appears
to be the ruins of some great city; rows of houses for sev-
eral miles in length, and regular streets. At the first view
there appears to be all the precision of design, with the
usual deviations representing palaces, temples, &c.; which
appearances are caused by the washing away of the hills, as
before described. These remains, being composed of more
durable substance continue undecayed, while the rest is
carried off. The strata have the appearance of different
stories; the isolated and detached hills constitute the re-
mainder. I had this description from hunters, and from
persons of intelligence who have met with them, and I have
myself seen places near the Missouri very similar.

There is but a small portion of this extensive region that
is not calcarious; in this respect resembling the section of
the valley which [232] lies east of the Mississippi. A fact
which is singular enough, on the summits of many of the
river hills, about one thousand miles up, large blocks of
granite are found, of several tons weight; these continue to
be seen until we reach the first range of primitive mountains.
It is possible there may have been a lower range, which
from the change produced by the wearing away of the earth
has gradually disappeared.

Some of the peculiarities of climate may be noted in
this place. The height of this western region, and the
open plains which compose it, cause it to possess a pure
elastic air. The sky has a more delightful blue than I
ever saw any where else; the atmosphere in a serene calm
evening is so clear, that a slight smoke can be discerned

i8ii] Brackenridge' s ^Journal 159

at the distance of many miles; and it is of great importance
to the Indians in detecting their enemies, and in giving
warning; but it also exercises their caution in the highest
degree. In point of health, it is unnecessary to say any
thing; such a country must necessarily be salubrious.
The heat of the sun is greatest in the month of July,
and at that time is not less intense than in other [233] parts
of the continent, but it is rendered more supportable by the
breezes which continually fan the air. Spring opens
about the last of April, and vegetation is in considerable
forwardness by the middle of May. Such fruits as the
country affords, principally berries, sand cherries, and
currants, do not ripen until the latter end of July. I found
strawberries ripe about the fourth of that month, near the
Mandan villages. Plums ripen in the latter end of Au-
gust. The winter sets in the beginning of October, but there
is frost frequently in August and September. The cold
is excessive during the winter seasons; there are frequent
storms which continue for several days, and render it dan-
gerous for any but Indians to stir out, without running the
risk of being frozen. These observations apply to the greater
portion of this region, but with respect to the part which lies
south of the Arkansas, must be taken with considerable
allowance.

To the north of the river just mentioned, rains are not
frequent, but when they set in, pour down in torrents.
To the south, there is seldom any rain, its place being
supplied by heavy dews. In the dry season, at a distance
[234] from the great rivers, water is every where exceedingly
scarce. The Indians in their journeys, generally so shape
their course as to pass where ponds of water are known to be;
but they most usually carry a sufficient quantity in bladders.
In this season, a person in traversing the country, will
be frequently surprised at crossing the beds or channels

1 6o Fidrly Western Travels [Vol. 6

of large rivers, without finding a drop of water. After
rains, or the melting of snows, torrents roll down these
channels. It is not surprising that a country so distant
from the sea, drained by a river which has a course of
four thousand miles, before it reaches the great reservoir,
should not be so well watered. This deficiency is another
amongst the impediments to the settlements of that vast
waste.

According to the boundaries before laid down, Louis-
iana is at least, one-third larger than the rest of the United
States, and contains little short of one million and a half
of square miles. But we should be greatly deceived if in
estimating its importance we take into view only its geo-
graphical extent. Constituting the central or interior part
of North America, the greater portion of it, is at too remote
a distance [235] from the ocean to have an easy and advanta-
geous communication with the rest of the world. When
compared to other parts of America it may be considered
as badly watered, and devoid of that facility of intercourse
from navigable rivers which they possess. I am to be
understood, as speaking of Louisiana generally; there are
exceptions to these general observations: the territory of
the Missouri, and the state of Louisiana, are amply sufl&-
cient to make amends for the unpromising character of
the remainder, they may be justly reckoned amongst the
most interesting portions of the American empire.

From what has been already said, it will be seen that
the prevailing idea of those western regions, being like the
rest of the United States, susceptible of cultivation, and
affording endless out-lets to settlements, is erroneous. These
out-lets when compared to the extent of country are ex-
tremely limited; they are much less considerable than on
the eastern side of the Mississippi. The natives will prob-

i8ii] Brackenridge's journal i6i

ably remain in quiet and undisturbed possession, for
at least a century, for until our country becomes in some
degree surcharged with population, [236] there is scarcely
any probability of settlers venturing far into those regions.
A dififerent mode of life, habits altogether new and suited
to the situation, would have to be adopted. Settlements
would have to be strung along water courses at such dis-
tances from each other, that they could not protect them-
selves from the wandering tribes. The distance from mar-
ket, and the difficulties of reaching it, would render the agri-
cultural produce of little or no value. Yet, I am convinced,
that did not the Indians possess it, there would in a very
short time, be many small groups of settlements scattered
through it. This country, it is certain, can never become
agricultural, but it is in many respects highly favorable
to the multiplication of flocks and herds. Those delight-
ful spots where the beauty and variety of landscape, might
challenge the fancy of the poet, invite to the pastoral life.
How admirably suited to that interesting animal, the sheep,
are those clean smooth meadows, of a surface infinitely varied
by hill and dale, covered with a short sweet grass inter-
mixed with thousands of the most beautiful flowers, unde-
formed by a single weed.

[237] This contraction of the settlements will have its
advantages. The territory we possessed before the acquisi-
tion of Louisiana, would not have been filled up for a great
length of time: it will require ages, and even centuries
before our lands can be cultivated as in Europe, or before
the population presses on the means of subsistence. A
thin and scattered population is a disadvantage, as it weakens
a nation and retards the progress of improvements. There
is also a consideration which will strike at the first view;
the vast open plains which separate us from the Mexican

1 62 Early Western Travels [Vol.6

provinces will for a long time prevent any serious diffi-
culties as to boundary, where there exist so little data for
determining it.

To dilate upon the political advantages of the acqui-
sition of Louisiana would fill a volume. It may be re-
garded as one of the most fortunate occurrences in our
history. Had this country continued in the hands of any
other power, it is highly probable that we should have
been involved in expensive wars, or perhaps a separation
of the western states might have taken place. To these
states the free navigation of the Mississippi is absolutely
necessary, [238] and while Louisiana remained in the pos-
session of any European nation it would always have been
subject to interruption. This consideration alone would
have been worth the price paid for the province. The
connexion between the existence of a republic and the
extent of its territory, is still a vexata questio amongst
politicians, and can only be decided by the experiment of
ours. I will only venture to suggest one idea. In a small
extent of country there is danger from the momentary
bias of popular opinion; the permanent interests, may not
be sufficiently diversified, and should the confederacy
divide on this subject, into two great parties, nothing
can long retain them in union. In an extensive region
like ours, even with the aid of our thousand newspapers,
popular feeling cannot be suddenly aroused to such a pitch
of passion and phrenzy, as to break down the barriers of
reason; and the northern and southern interests, (of which
we hear,) are neutralized by the weight of several impor-
tant states, whose interests are connected with that of both.
The western states, like the southern, are devoted to agri-
culture, but at the same time, dependent on the commerce
[239] of the northern for the conveniences and luxuries of
life.

i8ii] Brackenridge s 'Journal 163

The security our western settlements will derive against
the numerous tribes of savages, who would be at the dis-
posal of any power holding Louisiana, may be ranked
amongst the most certain advantages of the acquisition.
Our vicinity to the Mexican provinces will enable us to
carry on a trade, which, if permitted to be free, must in a
short time become of incalculable value. It is ardently
to be wished, that these people during their present strug-
gles may be able to throw ofif the foreign government,
which ruled them as it were by the spells of Circe, by using
every art to retain them in ignorance, and to render them
debased. Could these people become independent, and be
regenerated by the ennobling spirit of freedom, the north-
em continent would be exclusively possessed by two great
nations, Americans and Mexicans, united in friendship by
harmonizing interests and sympathy of governments.

The intrinsic value of Louisiana, notwithstanding the vast
extent which may be considered almost barren, is beyond
calculation. The [240] territory of Missouri and the state
of Louisiana, are equal in extent to any three of the lar-
gest states, containing every variety of soil and capable of
producing whatever may administer to the convenience or
luxury of man; rich in minerals, fertile in soil, and favor-
ably situated for commerce and manufacture.

A TABLE OF DISTANCES =»

From the mouth of the Missouri to the Mandan Villages —
Rivers — Latitudes, b°c.

Width

Places

of

rivers,

yds.

Side of
Missouri

Distance

Total
Dist.

Latitude

St. Charles ....

N. E.

21

38° 59'

Osage river, (Little,)

30

N. E.

20

Charles' creek . .

20

S. W.

27

Shepherd's creek .

S. w.

15

Gasconade river

157

S. w.

17

100

38° 45'

Muddy river

50

N. E.

15

Great Osage . .

397

S. w.

18

133

38° 31'

Marrow Creek

20

S. w.

5

Cedar Creek and islanc

i

20

N. E.

7

Lead Mine hill

S. w.

9

Hamilton's creek .

20

S. w.

8

Split Rock creek

20

N. E.

8

170

Saline or Salt river

30

S. w.

3

Manitoo river .

30

N. E.

9

Good Woman's river

35

N. E.

9

Mine river .

70

S. W.

9

200

1

Arrow prairies .

\

s. w.

6

The Charitons . . .

30
70

N. E.

14

-■

Ancient village of Mis-

souri Indians, near

N. E.

16

which, fort Orleans [

formerly stood .

[244] Grand River . .

90

N. E.

4

240

Snake creek

18

N. E.

6

Ancient village of the )
Little Osage Indians j

S. W.

10

256

Tiger creek and Island

25

N. E.

20

A creek and island

S. W.

12

Fire prairie and creek .

s. w.

12

'• By comparison of this table with the more detailed list in Lewis and Clark's
Narrative (Biddle ed., Philadelphia, 1814), ii, pp. 462-464, it will be noticed that
several changes have been made by Brackenridge, both in the data and orthography,
while the latitude is added. From internal evidence, there is some reason to
beUeve that Brackenridge had access to the original journals of Lewis and Clark,
but failed properly to interpret some of the proper names in the manuscript. — Ed.

i8ii]

Brackenridge' s ^Journal

165

Width

Places

of

rivers,

yds.

Side of
Missouri

Distance

Total
Dist.

Latitude

Fort Clark or Osage .

S. w.

6

306

Hay Cabin creek .

20

s. w.

6

Coal bank .

s. w.

9

Blue Water river .

30

s. w.

10

Kansas river

233

s. w.

9

340

39° 5'

Little river Platte .

60

N. E.

9

I. Old Kansas village

s. w.

28

Independence creek

s. w.

28

2. Old Kansas village

s. w.

I

St. Michael's prairie .

N. E.

24

Nodawa river .

70

N. E.

20

450

39° 40'

Loup or Wolf river

60

s. w.

14

Big Nihema

80

s. w.

16

Tarkio creek

23

N. E.

3

Nish-na-botona

50

N. E.

25

508

Little Nimeha .

48

s. w.

8

Bald-pated prairie — the '

river Nish-na-bo-tona

is at this place not
more than 150 yards

N. E.

23

from the bank of the

Missouri.

Weeping-water creek .

25

s. w.

29

River Platte . . .

600

s. w.

32

600

41° 4'

Butterfly creek

18

s. w.

3

Moscheto creek

22

N. E.

7

Ancient village of Ottoes

s. w.

. II

do. of Ayuwas

N. E.

6

[245] nver. . .

28

N. E.

II

Council Bluffs . .

s. w.

12

650

41° 17'

Soldier's river .

40

N. E.

39

Little Sioux

80

N. E.

44

Bad Spirit river

s. w.

55

788

A bend in the river, 20 )

miles round, and but >

21

809

900 yards across.

An island 3 miles N. E.
of Floyd's village.

0 £

27

836

Floyd's river and bluff

35

N. E.

14

850

Big Sioux river . .

no

N. E.

3

853

38° 48'

Commencement of the )

Cobell, Alum, and >

s. w.

27

880

Copperas bluffs . . )

i66

Rarly Western Travels

[Vol. 6

Width

Places

of

rivers,

yds.

Side of
Missouri

Distance

Total
Dist.

Latitude

Hot or Burning bluffs .

S. W.

30

White Stone river .

30

N. E.

8

An old village at the"^

mouth of Little Bow >

s. w.

20

creek j

River a Jaque or James R.

90

N. E.

12

950

42° 53'

Calumet bluff . . .

s. w.

13

Ancient fortification, \
Good Man's Isle )

s. w.

13

976

Plumb creek

12

N. E.

10

White Paint creek .

28

s. w.

8

Qui Courre creek .

150

s. w.

6

1000

Poncas river and village

30

s. w.

10

The village of dog prair.

s. w.

20

The island Cedar .

40

White River . . .

300

s. w.

60

II30

The 3 rivers of the Sioux

36

N. E.

22

An island in the upper ")
part of the Big Bend )

s. w.

20

[246] Upper part of the'S

Big Bend, the gorge I i -

s. w.

30

mile across

Tyler's river . . .

35

s. w.

6

1208

L'Oiselle's post. Cedar |
island j

18

44° 12'

Titon river

70

s. w.

37

The upper part of five old "

record villages of Ari- 1

s. w.

karas, reduced by the [

42

Sioux

Chienne river

400

s. w.

5

13IO

44° 20'

Old record village .

47

Ser-war-cerna .

90

s. w.

40

1397

Waterhoo ....

120

s. w.

25

1422

45° 35'

Old village on an island

s. w.

4

Arikara, 2 villages

s. w.

4

Stone Idol creek . .

18

N. E.

18

Warecore ....

35

N. E.

40

Cannon-ball river .

140

s. w.

12

1500

46° 29'

Old Mandan village .

s. w.

40

do. ...

s. w.

40

Mandan village

s. w.

20

1600

47° 13'

Company's Fort

40

1640

THE END