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'^ SliJ^KWUUJJvfflWJ HtH SiU^^
EVERY GOOD NURSE
USES AND RECOMMENDS
HOLLOWAY'S
PILLS AND OINTMENT.
Thousands of Testimonials from all parts
of the World prove their marvellous
efficacy.
Their combined use will quick]; Relieve and Core
RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, GOUT,
LUMBAGO, INFLUENZA,
LITER and KIDNEY COMPLAINTS,
SKIN ERUPTIONS, AND
ALL AFFECTIONS of the THROAT,
CHJ
r
i i
P'REFACE.
.Ix preparing the Hand-book to Brittany every endeavour has been made
to render it a complete and trustworthy Guide, and to bring, the information
down to the present date, but should any errors or omissions be diBCov.ered,
the Editor will feel obliged by notice of them being sent to him through
"Messrs. "W. J. Aj>aks .and Sons, 59, JFleet Sflreet, .London, or .Hbkry
•Blaoklook. and Co. Iad., Albert -Square, Manchester, with a view to their
• rectification in future editions.
The present issue .has been carefully .revised smd corrected, and
is considerably eritoged by the addition of much useful information, derived
item personal investigation in the «ottrse of frequent visits to Brittany, for
which the proprietors are indebted to a very obliging correspondent, who is well
•acquainted with the country and its people, and with archaeological matters
generally, and has had the goodness to place- hie notes at the -Editor's disposal.
These "refer in particular to the practical remarks on Shooting and "Fishing, to
the account of the Gallo-Roman discoveries at Bttssenno, and to the descriptions
of XJarnac and many other points *of antiquarian interest. .A .special Map of
'thfc'Carnac district will be found between pages 112 and 113, and, on .page 132,
atable Of the heights of the great menhirs. The List, at the end, of Conveyances
Jto.©v*ry important point, wiU he found. convenient 4br the; guidance, of .Tourists.
r
INDEX.
PAOE.
Aberildut -. 78
Abervrach 78
Agon Coutalnville 54
Agriculture H
Allee Couverte 64, 76, 104
Ancenls * 98
Angers M
Anne of Brittany 45
"Ann hlni goz" 67
Antiquities 21
Antiquarian Notes 26
Arsanno 124
Arthur, King 86, 72, 181
Arthur, Prince 89
Andicrne 14, 89
Auray ..12, 43, 107, 122
Avalon 72
Avranches ~* 54
Bain-Loheac .....................100
Barenton, Fountain of 181
Battle of the Thirties 48, 180
Baud 122
Bayeux • - 51
Beauport Abbey 71
Bccherel 65
Beignon 1*1
Belle Isle 99, 109
Belle-Isle-en-Be*gard? 72, 84
Betton *5
Binic 70
Blavet River 124, 88
Blois, Count of 40, 108
Bonneville, Chateau of 50
Bossenno, Roman Villa at 116, 1 1 7
Bot Coe*t 122
Bourbriac 68, 126
Braspars 87
BreTiat 71
Brest W, 79
Breton Language 16
Brignogan .... 78
Broons «>, **
Bubry - 129
Butte de Bre*tin 101
Butte de Ce*sar 110
Butte de Hellud Hi
Butte deTumiac ........105
Buttes de Brimbal 51
Caen 12, 50
Callac 82, 71
Camarct 81,85, 86
Cancale • 57
Carentan 53
PACK.
Carhaix 33, 68
Canute 107, 112
Carnoet 126
Castanec 122
Cattle 15
Cauines 66
Celtic Remains 21
Cesson Point 70
Challonnes 92
Champ des Martyr 8... 48, 108, 122
Champtoce* 92
Champtoceau 98
Chateaubriant 100
Chateau Gontier 100
Chateaulln 69, 33, 86, 87
Ch&teauneuf-du-Faou ......... 87
ChAtelaudren 82
Chaussey Isles 54, 58
Cherbourg 62
Chollet 92, 98
Chronological Notes 26
Church Architecture 27
Clairmont 98
Climate 14
CHsson 97
Clisson, Oliver de 43, 97
CoBtatoux 119
Cogtfrcc 72
Combourg 59
Commanna 84
Concarneau 127
Conleau 104
Conquet, Le 81
Corlay ...1 69
Cornouaille ............. 18
Corseul 64
Costumes 81
Cdtes dn Nord 18
Courcouno 118
Ceutances 68
Coz Castel 72
Crach River 115
CreTault 67
Croesty 106
Crotsic 99
Cro'cn 81, 85, 86
Cru'wlx 120
Dahouet 70
Daoulas 86
Deauville 50
Des Princes 102
Dinan 11, 62
Dinant Castle 86
Dlnard M 60
PAOX.
Dol 56
Dounfront 50
Douaolt 32
Douarnenez 87, 88
Duguescliu 43, 61
Dukes of Brittany 88
EccleHlastical Remains ......... 24
Edict of Nantes 44
Elvcn 101
Erdeven 85, 120
Erquy 62, 70
Esse* 50
Etang au Due 181
Etel 121
Evran M 64
Faou, Le 88
Faouet, Le H 127
Fe*rei 103
Feudal Remains „ 25
Finisterre 13
Fishing 83
Folgoe*t 77
Fosse, La 60
Fougeray-Langon 101
Fougeree .. 51
Frtfhcl Cape 60, 61
Garaye, La 64
Gav'r Innis 104, 112
Genets M 54
Geology 14
Ghosts 80
Gllles de Bretogne 60
Gilles deReftz 44, 98
Glomel 68
Glossary 18
Goarec 34, 68
Goulven 78, 66
Gourin 32, 83, 81
Granville 54
Grolx 125
Grotte nnx Fe'es 67
Guelienno 180
Guemene* 124, 128
Guerno 103
Guerrande or Gue*rande 99
Guildo 60
Guimiliau 74, 84
Gumgamp 11, 33, 68, 71, 82
Guisseny 78
Haedic 99
Hardouinay 65
INDEX.
FAOK
Harfleur 6*
Havre 60
Henan .... 128
Henncbont 128
Hennebont, Siege of 41, 124
History of Brittany :J4
Hoedic 122
Honflear 50
Houat 128
Huelgofit 74, 87
Hunaudaye 66
Hunting 32
He anx Moines 1C8
He Bre*hat 71
He d'Arz 103
IledeBatz 76
Iks de Groix 126
lie de 8ein 90
lie Longue 85, 104
IUe-et-Vilainc 18
Ingrande 02
Interments 26
Is 88
Janze* 50
Jersey 58
John, King of England 37
Josselin 180
JoyeuBe Garde 85
Jugon M 65
Ke*lernn 81, 85, 86
Keradel 91
Kercado..... 113
Kergadiou 79
Kergonan 104
Kerhue'bras 89
Kerhuon 81, 8)
Keriaval 119
Ke'ricn 83, 34
Kerisper 112
Kerlcscan 118
Kerlevenan Chateau 106
Kerloaz 79, 84
Kermadoue* 128
Kcrmario 118
Kermorvan 81
Kernascleden 123
Kerouct 127
Kerpenhir 110
Ker-Rohou 83
Kersanton Quarries 86
Kerscaven 90
K«rviltre* 92
Kings of Brittany 36
La Brohinier 66, 100, 181
La Fosse 60
La Ganterle 64
La Garaye 64
La Gouesniere-Cancale 67
La Latte 61
La Martyre 86
Lambader 78,84
Lamballe ~. M
I'AOK
La Meilleraye ..—••••....... 100
La Motte Broons^. 68
Lampaul 79, 81
Lancieux 60
Landaoudec 85
Landerneau 78, 84
Landes of Lanvaux 101
Landevennec 81, 86
Landlvisiau 76
Lanleff M 70
Lanmeur 72, 78
Lannilis 81
Lannlon 71,74
Lan Rivoare* 79
Lantic 70
LanvalM 62
Largouet 101
Larret 79
La Roche Bernard 103
La Roche Binet 102
La Roche Derrien 71
La Tour d'Auvergne 68
Latz 115
Laval 100
Le Conquet • 79
L'Etang au Due 181
Le Faouet 69,128
Le Faon 87
Le Fret 86, 86
Le Goulet 80
Legue* 70
Llhon 64
Le*hon Abbey and Castle 64
Le Mans 92
Le Pallet 97
Lesconil 91
Lesneven ..76, 77, 84
Lezardrieux 71
Lie* River M 67
Lisieux 50
Lison £8
Living 31
Locmarch 86
Locmariaker...28, 24, 36, 109, 110
Locmine* 102, 128
Locpcrec , 110
Locoal Mendon 120
Locronan 88
Logonna Quiinerch 87
Loheac 100
Lorient ...12, 124
Loude*ac 67
Louvigny 51
Lower Loire w M 18
Mael Pestivicn 83
Malansac M 101
Malestrolt 131
Mane'-Kerion (Keriaval). 119
Manl-Meur 121
Mane'-er-Hroec .... 110
Mane*-Lud Ill
Matignon •...» 61
rxtm
Maurion •• .Ill
Megalithic Remains , 91
Meilleraye, La I Of
Melrand ~ IS*
Men Brao-Sao ••••.•. 17?
Men-dogan .«.1S *
MenDrein .. M .. lit
Men-er-Re*thual 1!1
Menec 118
Menhirs at Carnac 28
Messac 101
Minquiers Rocks.*.*. ...... ....... 68
Moidrey 65
Moncontour. and "Pardon" 66
Montafllan 66
Montauban 68,181
Mont Dol 67
Montfort, Earl of 40, 108
Montfort, Countess of ......... 41
Montfort-sur-Meu 66, 181
Montreuil-sur-Ille —~. 65
Mont S. Michel £4, 65
Mont. S. Michel (Carnac) 112
Morbihan 13
Morbihan, Sea of 103
Morgat, Caves of 81, 88
Morlaix .....11, 73, 84
Mortagne 08
Mortain 50
Moustoir £0,119
Moustoir, Le 68
Mur 68
MuziUac 108
Nantes 12,93,100
Napoleonville (Pontivy) 129
Ne*ant 181
Nignol 118
Nizon 128
Nomenoe* 37
Nort 98
Numerals 20
Oudon 93
Ouessant (Ushant) 70
Paimboeuf 99
Palmpol 70, 71
Paimpont Forest 129
Pallet, Le 97
Parame* 59
Pardons 29
Paris 12, 49
Penfra 131
Pen March 90
Penthievre, Fort 121
Penzes 74
Pe*ran Camp 67
Perros Gulrec 79
Petit Mont « 106
Physical Features 19
Pierre-k-Bassins 99
Pierres BrfUees, Champ de ... 67
«!
nm&tv.
PAGE.
Pierre* Plates ...,
Pilgrimages.......... M 29
Plpriac „^. 101
PleneWugon 66
Pleneuf .. 70*
Ple»tia .........78, 74
Pleacadeuc 101
Pleudxan, Forest of 67
PleyberrChriat ... 84
Ploemenr. 72, 91
PloBrmel 181
Plouarzel .....~........„.......72, 79
Ploubalanec 90
Ploudalmezeau 78, 81
Plouenour Treaz 78
Plouescat 76
Plougattel ........ 81. 86
Plougenast 67
Plougonver 82
Plougoumelea 108
Plouharnel 118, 121
Plouhinec 120
Ploumanach 72
Plouvenez-Porzay 88
Pluherlin 101
Plumiliau ........._ 122
FointedesEspagnols 8ft
PonUaven .......... 127
Pontchatcau , 108,110
Pontgaud 67
Pontivy 70, 129
Pont l'Abbe" *..«.... .89, 92
Pont l'Eveque 60
Pontinenon 73
Pontorson 55
Pontrleux 70, 71
Pont-Scorff. 18,124
Pornic 99
Port Brillet 49
PortLaunay 81, 86
Port Legree 70
Port Louis 126
PortNavallo 106, 110
Portrieux .... 70
Poullaouen 87
Prevalaye 60
QudmeneVen 88
Questembert 101
Quiberon 48, 107, 121
Qulmper 88
Quimperle*. 126
Quinipily, Venn* of 122
Quintin 69
Ranee River. 69, 62
Redon 12, 101
Regneville..... 64
Religion 27
Rennes 11, 49, 61, 66, 181
Rhuis- Peninsula 106
Richard Cororde Lion 89
PAGR.
Rooho Bernard, La 108
RocheforUen-Terre 101
Roche Jagu 71
Rocho Maurice. 84
Rochers de Cancale 67
Roche*sur~Yoiuie. ............... 97
Rohan « 129
Roilo ...........~..~..... 88
Roman Occupation... 86
Roman Remains ....~~..»24, 116
Roseoff .................... 76
Rosporden......... 127
Rostrenen*.. 68
Roaen « 60
Routes to Brittany. 10
Rumengol . M 87
Ranelo 99
Rttstephaa.. ............. ...... 128
Sable* ................. 92
Sardine Fishery 126
Sarzeau....«. 106
Savenay .....100
Seaer J27
Segre" 100
Sein, Isle of 90
Seven Islands 72
Shooting 32
Social Customs « 30
Solesmes Abbey ....,„„„ 92
Sport M 32
St. Adrien 128
Ste. Anned'Auray 107
Ste. Anne Roho 72
St. Aubin da Cormier 62
St. Barbe 119, 126
St. Briac 60
St. Brieuc 11, 62, 70
St. Cado 120
St.Caradec 68
St. Cast 61
St. Christophe 108
St. Eloi 68
St. Enogat 60
St. Esprit 64
St. Fiacre 126
St. Georges 92
St. Germain 65
8t. Glides. 108
St. Herbot 87
St. Hernot 86
St.HilairedHareouet 51
St. Jacut M 60
St. Jean du Doigt 78
St. JeanTremoulin 91
St. Juvat 65
St. Julien de la C6te. 67
St.Ld. 58
St. Lunaire 60
St. Malo 11, 68, 60
St. Malodes Treis Fontaines 181
St. Matthieu Abbey 79,. 81
St. M4rideo M 75*
PAGI.
St. Michel, or Miohaei 112
St. Natalie ....... 98
St.NioholasdnFelem 68
St. Pair 64
St. Pierre 121
St. Pol de Leon ..'. 75
St. Qujii 70
St. Renan 79
St. Servan.. 59
St. Thegoimeo 74, 84
Stangala 127
Stival 129
Story-telling 81
Sucinio, Castle of 10S
Superstitions ~ 80
Table de Ctfsar Ill
Tiffauges ... 98
Tinchebray 50
Tombeau de Gueorec....„.... 87
Tombelaine 56
Tonquedee 72*
Torohe, Roeher de la ......... 90
Torfou ...... 98
Touches Budes 67
Toulinguet 85
Tourlaville 68
Tours in Brittany 10
Traditions 86
Treoesson ...181
Tregastel 7?
Tregorraia «.... 71
Tregueneo 9?
Treguier 70, 72-
Tregunc 127
Trlhorenteue 181
Trepasses Bay 90
Trieux River 71
Trinite" (La)-sur-Mer 112
Trou Dore" ... 130
Trouville 50
Tumiac «. 105
Tymadeuc 129
Ushant, or Ouessant 79
Usel 70
Vannes 12, 10*
Varades 92
Vendean Wars 47, 92
Venetl 36, 98
Villedien lee Poeles 53
Villers-Booage. 61
Vire , 51
Vltre" 12, 49 •
Vocabulary- , 21
War of Succession...... 40
War of Religion... 46
William the Conqueror. 8fr'
Writers on BrHtanT. M ...«,10y 21
Tttniaei
7*'
CONTENTS.
INTBODUOTION.
I. Passports .......
•*•••••••
• •>«••••••. u..»««.«pag0
II. Conveyances „ 9
III. Sources of information „ 10
IV. Routes to Brittany „ 10
V. Tours in Brittany, with the principal places
and objects of interest .....~.. ...... page 11
Vr. Physical features pf 'each department „ 18
VTT Agriculture „ 14
VIII. The Breton Language «... „ 16
Glossary *...„........... „ 18
IX. Antiquities: 1, CelticrorMegfalithic remains;
2, Roman remains; 8». Ecclesiastical re-
mains; 4, Feudal jetoains. ..... M ...„pagjB 21
Chronological andAntiquarian Notes „ 26
Notes on Church Architecture, <fec... „ 27
X. Religion and Superstitions : Paganism ;
Christianity ; Ceremonies; Processions;
Pardons; Pilgrimages; Miracle Plays ; the
Priesthood page 27
Superstitions: Fairies; Ghosts ... „ 80
XI. Social customs: National Music and Songs;
Marriage; Funeral Rites; Sale of Hair;
Costumes; Story- telling; Charlatans; the
Charivari page 30
XII. Living ,.~ M . „ 31
Heights of the great Menhirs
List of Diligences to and from .Railway Stations
XIII. Sport— Hunting,Shooting, Fishing page 32
XIV. History of Brittany:—
1. General View— Traditions'. „ 84
2. Chronological Account :—
The Roman Period; the Breton Kings ; the
Dukes of Brittany; Connection with Eng-
land; Richard Coanr de Lion; Prince
Arthur; The War of the Succession— De
Blois — De Moutfort; the Countess de
Mont fort; Intervention of England; Battle
of the Thirties < Bertram! Dugueselin;
Oliver de Clisson; Battle of Aurayi Suc-
cesa-of De Montfort* Treaty of Guerr and*;
Brittany during the fifteenth century—
thePenthievres; Marshal Gilles de.Reta;
War of the League; Anne of Brittany;
Brittany in the sixteenth century; Ces-
sion .of Brittany to France; The Wars of
Religion; Henry IV.; Edict' of Nantes;
Brittany in the seventeenth century; Re-
vocation of the .Edict of Nantes; War with
England; Brittany in the eighteenth .cen-
tury; Dissolution of the Breton Parlia-
ment; Great fire of Rennes; Battle of S.
Cast; the Vendean War; the Battle of
Quiheron ; Brittany in the nineteenth cen-
tury; the Petite Chouannerie; present
political aspeet page 36
132
133
r
ITINERARY.
ROUTE I.— Into Brittany from Paris. Paris to
Ronnes by Versailles, Chartres, Le Muns, Vitre*.
Ronnes described page 49
ROUTE II.— Into Brittany from Havre. Havre
to Ronnes by Honfleur, Llsieux, Caen, Yillers, Vire,
Mortain, and Fougeres page 60
ROUTE III.— Into Brittany from Cherbourg.
Cherbourg to S. Malo by S. Ld, Coutances, Gran-
ville, Avranches, Dol, Pontorson (Mont 8. Michel),
Cancale (oyster fishery) to S. Malo page 52
ROUTE IV.— Into Brittany from the Channel
Islands. Channel Islands to S. Malo. Chansey
Islands, 8. Malo (history, antiquities, and descrip-
tion), 8. Servan, The Ranee, Combourg. Excursions
along the coast: Dinard to Cape Fre*hel, S. Lnnaire,
S. Briac, S. Jacut, Guildo (Gilles de Bretagne),
8. Cast (battle), Cape Fre'hel lighthouse. By rail
from Dinard to Questembert, passing through
Dinan, Caulnes, Montauban, and PloSrmel page 68
ROUTE V.— S. Malo to Rennes. 1. Through
Dinan (a) by rail vid Dol; (b) by rail vid Dinard;
(e) up the Ranee. Description of Dinan : its his-
tory and antiquities, Bertrand Duguesclin. Ex-
cursions : Chateaux of Lehon, Montafilan, Hunau-
daye, Jugon (Lamballe), on by diligence. 2. By rail
from Canines, or Montreuil, Evran, Hide*, to
Rennes pa&e 62
ROUTE VI.— Rennes to 8. Brieuc, by railway.
Lamballe (history and description). Excursion to
Moncontour (description), Pardon of 8. Mathurin,
11 Ann hini goz." Loudeac, Mtlr, Rostrenen, Car-
haix (history and description), La Tour d'Aurergne.
Yffiniac, 8. Brieuc, trade with Jersey page 66
ROUTE VII.— 8. Brieuc to Morlaix, by the
coast ; Lanleff, Paimpol, The Tregorrais, Pontrieux,
Lezardrieux, Tre"guler, Roche Derrien, Lannion,
Tonquedec : coast road ; Perros-Guirec, Lanmeur,
8. Jean-du-doigt, Morlaix, 8. Thegonnec, Guirai-
laux, Calvary page 70
ROUTE VIII.— Morlaix to Brest by the sea coast.
8. Pol-de-Leon, K.reisker,Ro8Coff, Lesneven,Folgoet,
and other churches. Coast scenery : Ushant, Con-
qnet, 8. Renan, 8. Matthew, Brest page 74
ROUTE IX.— 8. Brieuc to Brest by railway.
Chatelaudren, Guingamp, Belle Isle, Morlaix,
8. Thegonnec (Commanna), Landivisiau, Lan-
derneau, Kerhuon, Brest ... page 82
ROUTE X— Brest to Quimper. Ke*lernn and
Chateaulin. Le Faou. Excursions to Pleyben,
Huelgogt, Manage de la Vierge, 8. Herbot, Douar-
nenez, Quimper, 8. Corentin, Audierne, Trepasse's,
Wrecking, Penmarch page 86
ROUTE XI.— Into Brittany from Paris to Nantes
by Le Mans. Angers, description — Champtoce*,
Varades, 8 Florent, The Vendeans, Ancenis Cham-
toceaux. Nantes described — De Montfort, Anne
pf Brittany, Henry IV., Carrier, Duchess de Berri.
Excursions — fa) into La Vendue. Clisson, The
Castle, Oliver de Clisson, Torfou, Tiffauges, Mor-
tagne, Chollet; (b) Down the Loire, Paimboeuf,
Pontic, 8. Nazaire, Guerrande, Croisic, Belle Isle.
Savenay ; (c) Up the Erdre to Nort, La Meilleraye,
<fcc. Also by rail on to Nantes, vid Laval, 86gr6,
Chateau-Gonthier, and Ch&teaub riant page 92
ROUTEXII.—Rennesto Vannes, Rail. Fongeray,
Redon, Rochefort, Elven, Largouet, Vannes, -
Roche-Bernard, Suspension Bridge, Muzillac. Ex-
cursions— (a) Sea of Morbihan, Gav'r Innls; (b)
Peninsula of Rhuys, Suclnio, Sarzeau, 8. Gildas,
Tumiac; (e)Druidical monuments page 100
ROUTE XIII. - Vannes to Quimper. 8. Anne
d'Auray; Miracle Church; Auray; the Chartreuse
Champ des Martyrs ; Expiatory Chapel. Excur-
sions — (a) to Locmariaker; (b) to Carnac; stone
avenues ; Bossenno ; Quiberon (the battle), slaugh-
ter of prisoners; (c) to Baud, Quinipily, the
"Venus," Locmin^, 8. Columban; Hennebont,
Countess of Montfort ; Church ; Blavet Fishing.
Pontscorff, Lorient (dockyard), Salle d'Armes,"
Port Louis; Quimperle', Pardon des Oiseaux.
Rosporden, Concarneau (Sardine Fishery) page 107
ROUTE XIV.— Quimper to Rennes, by road
through Pontivy (Napoleonville); Scaer, Le Faouct,
S. Fiacre (fishing), Kernasclede^Guemene*, Pontivy,
Josselin Castle, Church, Combat des Trent e,
PloSrmel Church, Beignon, Rennes page 127
»©r LM of Diligmct and Corrupt ndaneet from and to th« Batlway Station*, mo page 138, at end of Book.
NY.
o be molested ;
lorn interfered
abolished, fre-
idarmerie near
'ed of English
'been detained,
tiling much in-
y occurring to
at near the sea
re best to carry
*9 is, in some
6.
ive leisure, and
Hat they should
the end of the
with its assist-
ttany in every
may visit any
treams, as well
country where
i distance from
i up in every
le chief points
n.ore accessible
:nae is compara-
' advent of the
ties of costume,
v*cl even occu-
lt, so strongly
1i strict), muft
PsP«ar, y^ the
the march
to visit r "
r,
BRADBHAW'S BRITTANY.
Armorica with comfort and despatch, in a roomy
well-cushioned first-class carriage, instead of a
frowzy, lumbering diligence, or a rickety cawe-cou
of a char-a-banc. He may miss the music of
11 the bells, bells, bells," and the smacking of the
whip, and the wild "y-otfp, y-oup" of the diligence
driver; but the snort of the engine will remind
him that civilisation has at length, though with
tardy steps, found her way into Brittany, and that
dirt and discomfort will soon be things of the past.
The country Hotels are rough, and scantily fur-
nished; the traveller must brhig his own soap.
Without being so sanguine as to suppose that
there will soon be seen in the Museum a specimen
labelled "thelast Breton flea," we may confidently
assume that steam will do much towards the Her-
culean task of cleansing the country, and that here
and there an Hotel may be found, At any rate on
the lines of rail, tolerably f reef rom phlebotomising
intruders on the traveller's rest.
IK-SOTtoOBS OF INFORMATION.
The present Handbook being intended for the
use of passing travellers, does not profess to give
more than a rapid glance at the various interesting
topics connected with the country through which
the tourist will pass. Volumes might be, and
indeed have been, written both by French and
English authors, on the History, the Archeology,
the language and literature, the manners and
customs, the manufactures, commerce, and agricul-
ture, the costumes, and other peculiarities of the
" beau paps de Bretagne " and its inhabitants; but
if our Handbook is to answer to its title, and steer
clearof the ponderosity of a Guide Book, "gran*
sareina chartse" we must avoid the temptation to
write an encyclopedia in duodecimo, and leave our
readers to revel in the stores of knowledge which
other writers have provided. The principal English
writers who have illustrated Brittany are Young,
Costello, Hope, and Trollope, whose works should
be read by every intending tourist; and much
information may be gleaned from the more
ephemeral writings of Louth, Weld, Jephson, Kemp,
and others, who have written aocounts of their
little tours and vacation rambfesdn Brittany. But
nearly all go over the same ground, and repeat the
same stories, with slight variations. Those who
wish to study the history-olBrittawy -should rend
work of Count- Darn, in fr vols,, the old
[Introduction.
Chronicles of Froissart and Monstrelet, and the
learned works of the Abbe Manet, Cambry, or
MalteBrun. Archaologists should obtain Cayot
Delandre's work on the Monuments of Morbihan,
now rather antiquated. More modern works are
those of Drs. Fouquet and Closmadeuc ; and of
Rene*, and L. Galles; Rosenzweig; Guyot Jomard;
also the Bulletin de la 8ocie*te* Polymathique; all
of which may be procured of M. Galles, Rue de la
Prefecture, Vannes.
There is a complete and accurate account of the
curious pre-historic marks on the stones in the
Morbihan in "Sculptures Lapidaires et Signes
Grave's des Dolmens dans le Morbihan " (published
at Vannes), by Dr. Closmadeuc, late President of
the Morbihan Polymathlc Society, and proprietor
of the island of Gav'r Innis. It is now out of print.
The tourist pur et simple should make him-
self acquainted with Emile Souvestrc's "Derniers-
Bretons," and the graphic sketches of Isidore
Masse*, Pitre Chevalier, Hippolyte Violeau, and
Alfred de Courcy. But they are rather romantic
and sentimental. Those who are curious in
folk-lore will read with interest the following
little works : — "Contes Populaires de la Haute
Bretagne;" " Litteratore orale de la Haute
Bretagne," by P. Sebillot; u Legendes Ohrltiemies
de la Basse Bretagne," by F. M. Lueel; forming
a collection of highly cbaractcristio stories,
proverbs, and curious- tradition s t which the
people are in the habit of repeating to wlrile
away the long evenings,
IV.— ROUTES TO BRITTANY.
In the old wars of which Brittany had the mis-
fortune to be at once the battlefield and the bone of
contention, victory generally inclined to the'party
which could first seize and hold fast the city of
Rennes; and in deference to ancient custom we
should be giving a judicious move to our readers if
we could place them per saltum in that ancient
town, which would at once introduce them into the
heart of the country. But in order to "advance
thus far. into the bowels of the land, 1 ' certain
impediments must be first overpassed.
Imprimis, there is the British- Channel, a mere*
ditch to some toatrists, but toothers a strip, however
narrow, of the inevitable "mat dirmr<" a strip
which, goes- on widening • almost all the way .from ,
Itover to Weymouth, whieh are probably the most
Intiwdnetioxn]
easterly and westerly p#rtftfromrwWcfaioarre54er»
would care to start. Accordingly, then^es* longer
or as a shorter-sea voyage. may bet thought agree-
able, and dependent, in seme measure upon the
longitude of the. starting point; in England, we
should recommend theiolhming- routes;—
1. By one of the great continental lines to Calais
or Boulogne, and Paris ; thence by rail to Rennes,
which reduces mal de mer to a minimum.
2. By Southampton steamer to Havre and Hon-
ncur; thence by rail to Lisieux,Mezidon, Le Mans,
and so to Rennes.
3. By steamer from Southampton to Cherbourg;
from Cherbourg to Coutances, Dol, and Rennes by
rail ; a highly-interesting route, and short, sea pas.-
sage, but involving considerable delay.
4. By steamer from Southampton to S; Malo
direct, and by Southampton or Weymouth to Jen*
sey and S.Malo; thenee by rail to Rennes; pro-
bably the cheapest route, and one which would
include a visit to the Channel Islands if desirable,
but at the same lime involving semelzor 15 hoars'
sea passage, not always cairn. Another route front'
Paris to Nantes will also be 'described.
V.-TOURS IN BRITTANY,
With the Principal Places and: Objects of
Interest.
[ Fishing stations are marked (/.) ]
With regard to the line of travel which the tourist'
had better pursue when fairly -arrived in the
country, we need scarcely say that the rail offers the
best, and indeed the only available route for making
the circuit of Brittany ; for, following almost co-
incidently the old diligence track along the route
Nationals, it has fairly driven that ancient
" leathern conveniency" off the road. But in order
to see the country it will be necessary to make
frequent halts and exeursions,,0therwise many of
the most interesting monuments* and most pictu-
resque features of the. scenery would remain
un visited.
5. MalO.— Fortifications. Hotel de Ville. Birth*
place of ChAteaubriaad— his grave. Church and
statues. British Vice-Consulate. Bathing. Ex-
cursion*: 1, to Dol; cathedral, nwMiuir. Theaceito-
Pontorse*; visit Mont St. Michel, 2^to& Serous
ROUTES TOr BRITTANY— TOUR& in BRITTANY.
vto
arsenal, Castleof . Solider, Cantade < (ity.o y bs o jj bed s i
and parka). 3 r cross to Dinardiby/atesasers old;
hospice at head of bay: walk along coast. to Si
Lunaire, S. Briao; S. Jaout, S.Caett; lighthouse
on Cape Frenel ; Castleof Gnildo.
Dinan. — By steamer up the Ranee;- also via
Dinard ; old gatcways-and fortifications, Ohtteoru
of Duchess Anne, Churehes of 8. Male and S.
Sauveur, Place and statue of Dagueselift, museum,
old-fashioned houses.
Excursions: FontainedesEaux,Taderr,LaGaraye T
Le*hon Castle and Abbey, Basfoins lunatic asylum,
chftteau, Montafilan, Hunaudaye, through Corseul :
cross of S. Esprit, menhir of S. Samson; fishing
between Evran and S. Jouan de Tlsle; Jugon,
lakes and old castle; Becherel, fine views; Heue\
old castle.
Rennes.— By rail from Cherbourg, S- Maloy
Paris, <fec. : Cathedral, Palais de Justice, Hotel de
Ville, Le Thnbor, University, Museum, and Gallery"
of paintings; PuMic Gardens; Porte Mordelaise T
La Lice, old town: Excursions-: Roche-aux-Fees to
Ploermel, by Montfort-sur-Mcu and Plglan (Hotel
dn Croissant), Chateau of Treeosson, Montfort-
sur-Meu.
St. Brleua— By rail, through Montanhan;
Broons — birthplace of Duguesclin; Jugon— good
fishing; Lamballe— church. Excursion to -Coast;
Dahouet; Erquy; CapeErenel; Montcontour-castie
and church; Castle of Hardouinayc; Churches;
TourdeCesson. Excursion: Binic, Legue*; Lanleffr-
old church ; Paimpol — abbey of Beaufort ; Lczar-
drieux— suspension bridge ; Treguier— church and
cloisters; Roche-dorrieu — old castle; Lamrion —
rocking stone Coz Castel, near Tregastel, PI on—
manach, fine churches; Guer — salmon rivers,
Castles of Coetfrec and Tonquedec; up river to
Belle-Isle-en-Terre (/.). Or along coast by Perros-
Guirec, Lanmeur, S. Jean-du-Doigt (5 miles), to
Morlaix,
Gulngamp (/.)— Churches: Notre Dame, de
Bon Secouxs, and.de Grace; St. John ^ Fontaine -
de Plombu River: scenery; fishing: BeHe-Isle en
Torre (/,), Ponthou, to
IttOXlftiX.— Curious oldhousee, terraced gardens*
churchesf. fountains, quays, tobacco manufactory.
Excursions Guimiliau — church and. calvary.
Rail to: S. Polnder-Xrfom-*ne. chsureteo ; P
r
12
BRAD8HAW 8 BKITTJLNT.
[Introduction.
Lanbader; S. Thegonnec— fine church; Landi-
risiau — church; La Roche Maurice — castle and
church; Landerneau — Chateau de la Joyeuse
Garde. Excursion: to Lesneven Folgogt — line
church, coast scenery; Goul ven, dolmen and church ;
Brignogan, the menhir of Men Marz ; Abem-ach;
lead mines of Poul-la-Ouen and Huelgogt; Menage
de laVierge; Cascades of St. Herbot.
Brest.— Dockyards, foundries, arsenal, fortifica-
tions, old castle, views from the heights. Excur-
sions: to S.Re*nan, menhirs of Flouarzel; Camaret;
Conquet — Abbey of St. Matthew; Landevennec;
Ushant; Calvary at Plougastel to Daoulas, Le
Faou, Braspars. Excursion by steamer (occasional)
to Chftteaulin, Crozon, and Caves of Morgat. To
Chftteaulin (/.) and Quimper (/.) by Rail.
Caen to Rennes, through Vire. Picturesque
country, Castle. Tinchebrai; Mortain, Avranches;
Mont S.Michel; Dol; Combourg; Rennes. Or by
Domiront (castle); Mayenne; Laval; rail to Rennes.
Or by Mortain, St. Hilaire, Louvigne*, Fougeres (old
border castle), St. Aubin du Cormier (old border
castle); Liffre*, Rennes.
Parle to Rennes, by Versailles. Chartres Ca-
thedral; Le Mans Laval Vitre*, in Brittany— old
castle and fortifications.
Bonnes to Bedon, by Bain. Fougeray— old
chateau.
Vitr6 to Nantes, by La Guerche: Ch&teau-
briant — old fortifications ; La Meilleraye- monas-
tery; Nort; Nantes.
Nantes.— Cathedral and other churches, old
castle, house where the Duchess of Berri was con-
cealed, museum, library, quays, sardine factory.
Excursions: Clisson castle, La Garenne Tif-
f auges, castle of Gilles de Retz ; up the Erdre to
Nort and La Meilleraye; up the Loire, by rail,
visiting Ancenis, Champtoceaux, Varades, and
8. Florent, Ingrande, Chalonnes, to Angers. To
8. Nazaire (by rail, by Savenay), scene of defeat of
Vendlans; by river, past Indret, steam factory,
Paimboauf , small harbour. Port of Nantes : docks,
great extent; Guerrande, old town, salt pans. Batz:
curious costumes; old church. Croisic, watering
place; wild fowl. Pornic, from Nantes, by road;
watering place -gay in summer. Nantes to Pontivy
(lately Napoleonville), by rail and road: Savenay,
Pontchtteau, "La Roche Bernard;" S. Gildas;
old church, ancient Bishopric; Chateau
of Beaumont; thence, by voiture, to Malestroit,
ruins, scene of treat? between England and
France, 1348. Ploifrmel: old church, statues,
obelisk, Combat des Trente. Excursion : Mauron,
lake (/.), Chateau of Loyat. Excursion: Mivoie
La Gacilly, and Carentoir. Josselin : fine chateau
on River Oust, Church of Ndtre Dame des
Ronciers. Excursion : Locmine\ Church of S. Col-
omban, Gnehenno, Calvary. Rohan, small new
village. Pontivy or Napoleonville (old and new
town): chateau, church, River Blavet (/.) Ex-
cursion: Stival fountain, Cleguerec, Megalithic
remains, romantic valley, Stan-en-Ihuern.
Pontivy to Auray, rail or road: picturesque
country, forest of Camors. Baud(/.): neat church.
Chateau of Quinipily, statue. Excursion : Chapel
of S. Adrien. Botcoet : old statues. By Pluvigner,
to Castenec ; Church of S .Nicodeme.
Auray. — Fine situation, view from Bel videre on
castle walls; field of battle of Auray. Excursion:
Chartreuse and expiatory chapel, Champ des
Martyrs, Church of S. Anne,MegalithicMonuments,
Erdeven, S. Cado, and Locoal Mendon; Etel;
Carnac, dolmen at Locperec. Locmariaker, by
boat, Gav'r Innis do M passing Plessis Kaer and
Kerentrec ; Quiberon, Rail : Fort Penthievre, Men-
hirs. Auray to Vannes, by S. Anne, miracle church .
Valines. — Cathedral, Tour du Conne'table, walls
and gates, Museum of Socie"te* Polymathique.
Excursion : Isle of Conleau, bathing place, church
of S. Ave*, S. Guen, Hesqueno; Roman road to
Meriadec ; Pierre i, bassins at Cogt&al, dolmen of
Er Roch. Peninsula of Rhuys : Sarzeau, Castle of
Sucinio, St. Gildas, Butte de Tumiac, Ac. L lets of
the Morbihan, He d'Arz, Ile-aux-Moines, Castle of
Elven. Roche Binet to Nantes, by Muzillac:
battlefield; Roche-Bernard suspension bridge;
Pont-chateau.
Pontivy to Brest, by road by Mur, vid Loude*ac ;
Gouarec — good fishing; Le Moustoir— church ;
Rostrenen old church; Glomel(/.); Carhaix (/.) and
Huelgoet(/); St. Herbot (/.); Sizun; Landerneau R.
Pontivy to Quimper, by Guemene*— monument
toBisson; Ploerdut; S. Tugdual ; Plouray ; Stud
atLangonnet; Gourin(/.); Scaer— good fishing.
Rosporden (/".), rail to Quimper, or by Kernas-
cleden — church ; Le Faouet — Chapels of S. Fiacre ;
S. Barbe — good fishing ; Quimperle*— Church of S.
Cross ; S. Michel ; coast road by Pont-Aven (/. ) ;
Introduction.]
rail to Concarneau— sardine fishery, aquarium, and
rocking stone, Men Dogan ; Qulmper, capital of
Finistere — cathedral. Excursions: 8tangala—
fishing; Ch&teaulin. Rail: salmon fishery; Douar-
ncnez, Rail; Ploare*— church; Coe*t Bily— chateau;
Audierne— coast scenery ; Bay; Point Penmarch ;
Bay of Tre'paase's; Pont 1' Abbe", Rail; Pont Croix,
and La Pointe da Raz.
Vannesto Qulmper, by rail byAuray: Henne-
bont— old castle, gateway, bridge, and viaduct;
Chapel of Notre Dame du Paradis; over the
Blavet (/.)
Lorient.- -Docks and arsenal; Phare— Church
of Kerentrcc, salle d'annes, Law's house. Excur-
sions: to Port Louis, Ploemeur, He Groix, and
Belle Isle, menhirs and dolmen — reservoir; Palais
Nostang — Roman remains ; Isle Belz.
Pontscorff (/.)— Calvary at Arzenno or Arsano;
Bannalec, Quimper, as above.
VL-PHTBICAL FEATURES.
A straight line drawn from S. Malo through
Rennes to Nantes will cut off the peninsula known
as Brittany, an irregular parallelogram about 200
miles in length by 100 in breadth. It includes,
indeed, on the east, Fougeres, Vitre*, Chateaubriant,
and Ancenis, and reaches about 30 miles south of
Nantes; but the liue is drawn from the natural
frontier. It is bounded on the north by the English
Channel, west by the Atlantic, and south by the
Bay of Biscay. The rivers Ranee. Vilaine, and
Loire form, with their rocky channels and sur-
rounding forests, a natural barrier to the south
and south-east, which accounts in no slight degree
for the isolation and independence of Brittany. It
has known many changes of limits and nomen-
clature, as its history will show ; but old Armorica
almost exactly corresponds with the five provinces
of Ille-et- Vilaine, Lower Loire, Cdtes du Nord,
Morbihan, and Finistere. A portion of the depart-
ment of Finistere formerly bore the name of
Cornouaille, or Cornu Gallia, as some think,
before it was applied to our Cornwall.
lite et Vilaine partakes of the character of Nor-
mandy. It abounds in woodlands and meadows,
undulating hills, and deep valleys; but has not the
striking features of the western departments. The
chief towns are Rennes and 8. Malo.
PHYSICAL FEATURES.
Id
The Lower Loire Is generally Aaf and fertile, and
at the mouth of the Loire marshy and unhealthy;
but towards La Vende*e it abounds in woods and
vineyards, and in summer has a delicious tem-
perature. The chief town is Nantes, which long
disputed withRennes the title of Capital of Brittany.
Chief rivers — Loire and Erdre.
Cttes du Nord is more diversified; towards the
sea it is cut up into valleys by numerous rivers and
streams, and is very fertile ; but towards the inte-
rior the great chain of the Menez Arrez* runs from
east to west, surmounted by a flat table land of
heather-clad landes, varied by extensive forests of
underwood. The chief towns are S. Brieuc, Dinan,
Loudeac, Guingamp, and Lannion. Its chief rivers
are the Ranee, Trieux, and Guer; but an immense
number of small rivers flow down through every
valley to the sea. The dialect spoken about
Tre*guier is rather different from the purer
Breton of Finistere.
Morbihan, or the "little sea," so called from the
estuary on which Vannes is situated, is still more
thoroughly Breton. It is the country of deep woods,
craggy valleys, sparkling streams, and a constant
succession of diversified landscapes. The character
of Brittany is aptly summed up in the French word
accidentia which describes this changing variety of
hill and dale, rocky mountain, and fertile valley
which is seen in Morbihan. Towards the south the
coast is flat and sandy, with vast plains of heather
and barren waste. The chief towns are Napoleon -
villc, or Pontivy, Vannes, and Lorient. Principal
rivers— Oust, Blavet, and Scorff.
Finistere, or Finisterre, is the most western de-
partment, and as might be expected in a country
exposed to the full force of the Atlantic waves and
storms, is generally barren and rocky. But it
abounds also in deep gorges and fertile valleys,
and the bays around the coast are deep and wonder-
fully picturesque. The chain of hills runs right
through to the west, and terminates in high cliffs
which oppose their bold front to the thundering
charge of the white-crested waves. The chief towns
are Brest, sit na ted on a noble haven ; Quimper and
Quimperle*, on the banks of fine rivers; Morlni*, a
rising port ; Carhaix and Ch&teaulin.
* Menu arrex, according to M. Manet, sign i flea:—
"Another hill I"— an exclamation of an impatient traveller
The etymology is doubtful
14
BJLaJJ£H*W & JMUXXAHY.
[Introduction.
Its rivves are the .Elide, Qdet, £lorn, and
X;hateaaii«,*ad the tributary stmams, which fall
•iuto.thom, tun through most lovely scenery.
The clhnate of Brittany, as might be expected
irom.Ua westerly position and the proximity of the
aea to most- parts of It, 1b temperate, bat moist. It
has little cold, but the sky is generally over-cast,
«and the heat of summer and glare of thcaanare
'tempesed by fresh-sea breeaes and frequent rain.
•The highest hills are not more than 1, WOf eetabove
thcaealerelf and great storms. are rare; bat there
is rather store humidity than<euits most eonsti-
ItUtiOUS.
It Is, hownver, eminently salubrious, aad the
^natives enjoy greater longevity and are more
•healthy than the population of : any other part of
Ufraaee.
•Thointerlor of Brittany is much leas known than
ithc coast, on account of ltaruggadandmoontainoiis
character, and from the fact thawtbe great towns
-•are nearly all on tho coast, -and the gieaim a d arun
*roundthe country without touching the sequestered
. interior: it will be seen that the railway similarly
• follows the coastat a short distance from the sen,
and with the exception of thelino from fit. Brtenc to
Auray, through Pontivy, -the outer circle of the
• country is all that is to be observed by the rail ;
• and the tourist, if he wishes to see the; interior,
'must, either on foot or by private cohveyaiiceyamfce
excursions frequent and fara-fleld beyond the line
of rail. Vide Table of Conveyances, at the end.
Severat short connecting lines are, however, in
course of construction.
The population of Brtttanymay beput down at
one million ; and this will not appear too low, when
the wide uncultivated tracts and sparse habitations
of the interior have been visited.
The geology of Brittany is very uniform. The
granite crops up in every direction, principally
-along the line of the chain of hills, and the spurs
which run off to the north and south; and in some
; places the slate and schistose rocks cover a large
area, with lead mines, not now worked, about Poula-
dieuen-and UueigoBt. The grauwacke, Including
the superior and inferior transition rooks, presents
Utar-uggedfeatureslnalllts variety, f rom hornblende
-nad 'micaceous state, 'to: schistose *md quartzose
rock. Tho granite is largaly raahuU^woaiyijuarrz,
•mica, and felspar. The Kersanton, a curious green
*tone, supposed to be of volcanic .origin, occurs in
the north-weat-of Brittany, and is.largely osedin
.the beautiful churches of that part.
The carboniferous system scarcely occurs, nor is
there much limestone in the country, a desideratum
greatly felt. There is a large area of alluvial and
drift deposit, with calcareous fossils extending from
Dinan southwards. The fossil beds of Tretumel
and Qulou are worth visiting.
The Bay of Audierne. — The sea has greatly en-
croached from the Point du Baz to Pen March:
the remains of buildings can (in fine weather) be
seen at low tide under the water about Audierne.
The coast has undergone frequent elevations and
depressions, particularly in the Bays of Cancale and
Douarnenez, giving rise to many legends. There
are submarine forests in the Bay of S. Michel, and
submerged trees are seen on many parts or the
north coast.
The wonderfully fertile soil of Brittany has long
sufficed to producenot only sustenance for its peopl c
bnt an ample amount for export. To this mast be
in some measure referred the small progresrwhich
has hitherto beenmadein^sclentificagrieultuTe. The
Breton, too, was always averse to Investing eapital,
and if he put money into the ground It was not in
the sense of an investment, but only to hide it from
his seigneur or his enemies. In' the unsettled state
of Brittany, for many centuries, it was out of the
question to expect that much labour or capital
should be expended in producing «stock or crops
which were almost certain to be harried or lifted
by the victor— Frenchman or BngUshman-^for the
time being: so-all the farmer did was to sow a little
corn and be thankful if hexonktreap. It for his own
benefit.
It was, however, in the chivalrous times con-
vMLend+^mawmrtmytarre" to -make war upon the
peasontrytwho tilled tbe>htnd. In the War of the
Succession, Baausuanorr reproached Pembroke for
breaking this custom, when he challenged him to
the fight of Thirties at Mivoie.
" OBKvalim d'aagMsmi voas feists grand pedie.
De travaUlsr kag esn —es ex aiiisfssent to Ma."
But. in after tlmea little tseepeat ♦was paid ^> the
property of the. siaietnta,Mnd<rheyrwBererat length
Introduction^]
jLUUiuin/vuiiu.
Al5
"i
so. impoverished, and terrified .that :they ceased to
cultivate, the. land, andterrlbto famine overtook tin
country.
/Ibis .unsettled state of things, described with
.great -vigour in the. Breton. ballad "Aim Brminik,"
. (in VUlomarqul's Baraas Breia)has left Its influence
upon.the present geneaation. Conuriokaand hay-
stacks are still rare, for who would have left them
in the olden times to the mercy of the invader?
The hay is gathered into the attics of houses within
.the walled towns, and the corn is cut away, the cars
only, and carriecLand thrashed and disposed of at
once.
The Breton" farmer dislikes innovations also. So
long as ho can do as his fathers have done, It is
sufficient for him. Give him his bU noir, and his
chopine of cider, his.pjpe and his chimney corner,
and he is content.
2to*BbdftvisJBniof heritages JUMtateo * femi-
•okms influence upon farming; .*U property is'
. divided into shares among the heirs, according to
.'their xonsaitgntaity,:and thus estates are divided
and subdivided till they dwindle down .to two or
three -.acres. On this account the 'fields are often
of most lilliputian dimensions— many, as .2%* Times
correspondent said in 1858, about the size of a
yacht's mainsail ; and with such holdings we can-
not be surprised that low farming prevails. A
.horse or a plough is shared between several far-
mers; a donkey or an ox is "a rare possession, and
the author has seen a man ploughing hisficldwitb
his cow and his wife yoked together. Most of the
field labour is performed bywmien— a masculine
race,'elad'in epicene garments, like the Northum-
brian •bottdxgers; indeed, the "male population 61
Brittany, what with the 601186110110113 and fleeo-
rating^wars, is decidedly hva minority.
It -is a painful sight to -see the 'peor 'women,
'breaking up the grotmd^with heavy hoermntfmat-j
L toehs;but theyttre a patient and hartrwoHringi
*Tace.
Yet, in spite df -these ' drawbacks, ttitfftargreati
predomtnittoe of1»aTegnrwastaejbog faw ii H O »t > a iids,[
. Brittany- p mdwtt s sample napniies of igratn, ma&>
AflkneriBipaafears«je-to:gr««tt »amber»: of /cattle aadl
iatoeep. (Wheat, m^liartey, rye^mUlet, aitdrnndze,
ttrejsasfly groHnr;Jtnid4M smaatterxaoya aiui s wiii , bid
>stota or bttakwheaV It sown audi taatnwttsJd hr three 1
weeks or a month. Flax is a3«X^ l 3e ly*« i M w Ui k|
and dreseed, *nddie«e-epuikiaeveryx)e*t«ge. .The
-steeping of ttin.the-riverata a. sad drawback to the
flatting. Chiver, -eetaa, and saiaf ato are also largely
grown, and when in flower .give the fields a very
gay appaaranae. -The potato is more grown .than
. formerly, bufctarnips and carrots do not thrive in
many parts. Htmp.ia also t extensively grown and
fabricated. ,Abeut/Moriaix and S. Malo tobacco is
grown in large quantities, under a government
nnonopoly^and it*manafactare gives employment
- to*a largennraher of ifemaies.
.The labourers <*re but an indolent race, and
though wages ate . low; they-are quite equal to the
work done. So much time- is lost in gossiping,
.-smoking, expectorating, and the petite chasse, to
/eay:nothmg efthx* fete days, Saints' days,jHiraVw,
.Ac, onwhich no-work, is doae<at all, that an Eng.
:liah mbenrervwoulddo as. much work in a weak as
; the Breton, gets through in a month.
. Many Englishmen . have 'attempted . to cultivate
-land in: Brittany, and if English capital and perse-
verance requires a field there is ample room on the
sondes of Brittany; bat the struggle is too arduous.
Tho nature of the aoiL may be intractable, hut it is
. as nothing.to the rude natures and obstinate oppo-
sition of the people, .their idleness, bigotry, and
determined hostility. to>innovstions. To. these must
be added the •dtumAhmtogieum, which renders it
impossible for a. Protestant to feel at home among
them.
Much "has been ssnid in late years about the
Breton eattiey but their* value is only relative. It
is true that they are amaU,«and pretty looking, and
hardy, and: require little food or care; but their
.yield is -very small, -and they do not improve by
migration. The sheep, too, are miserable objects,
generally picking a scanty livelihood by the road
side, but the mutton is delicious. Pigs are of the long-
legged, arched-backed breed, very weak in the
hocks, and generally allowed to wander about the
village.
The breed of horses Is Tery valuable, -and sinee
"the establishment of the government haras at Du
Pin, Lambolte, -arid elsewhere, tho breed is much
-improved. <Mo»t of the Nevman horses. came from
Brittany, being bought -as colts, and broughtup in
theTich^r^p^rttureewndTander she mih4er.skiea.of
the Oottnthi andOaWados. The hardiness «nd
tuf .J
16
BBADSIIAW'S BRITTANY.
[Introduction.
entire, which are need in the public voitures is
incredible; but probably the railway will ease
their labours, and it is to be hoped mitigate their
sufferings, for they hare a hard life of it.
There is an air of poetry and Arcadian simplicity
about rustic life in Brittany which cannot fail to
charm the visitor. The house is generally em-
bosomed in trees, and is solidly built, having the
aspect of a fortified place, with its narrow windows,
crenellated walls, and deep moat. Song and dance
beguile the toil, and even the threshing is performed
by men and women together, dancing flail in hand
over the floor, to the sound of a biniou or bagpipe,
or an ancient Cremona.
Inside the house there is a mixture of prosperity
and dirt which is somewhat puzzling. The cattle,
pigs, and fowls, share the same roof as their
masters, and are scarcely restrained by a thin
partition from sharing their meals; the pigs and
dogs nuzzle unchecked among the pots and pans,
for the Breton pig, like his Irish relative, is a
member of the family and helps to pay the *» rlnt."
The admission of the porcine element into the
Breton household has given rise to many shrewd
hits from their French neighbours, and the word
*coehcri * is considered somewhat personal. P rov : —
Ninety-nine pigs and one Breton make a hundred
Bretons. "Les Bas Breton* et let cochons eouehent
ensemble; jenecroyais pas let cochonssi sales"— "the
Bas Bretons and the pigs sleep together; I would
not have thought the .pip* were so filthy ?"
Dirt is very destructive of romance, and en passant
we may warn our readers that fleas abound in all
parts of Lower Brittany, especially in farm-houses,
and that on entering a house it is better to turn
the socks over the ends of the trousers.
The ble »ot>, which is the staple food of the
country people, is made into gaUttes or pancakes,
which are eaten hot or cold, with butter.
Great quantities of eggs and butter are exported
from Brittany, to the great reproach of our own
fanners and farmers' wives. We are paying France
more than a million sterling a year for eggs alone.
Much has been done of late years to raise
tie position of agriculture in Brittany. Agricul-
tural societies hold their cornices and give prizes.
Machinery is being gradually introduced, and
better received ; although the stolid Bretons mangle
themselves terribly, and put the machinery out of
gear with their clumsiness; but a gradual improve-
ment is taking place.
Many of the nobility are turning their attention
to farming, and among the rest the late Princess
Bacciocchi established a model farm of about 1,900
acres, at Korner Hoe*t (Village near the Wood),
which bade fair to set a wide example of improve-
ment ; but it turned out a great failure, the soil
being so bad as to be incapable of remunerative
production, although a very large amount of
capital was expended on it. When the Princess
died, about 1872, it was left to the Prince Imperial,
who sold it ; the offers were so low that it realised
but an insignificant sum of money.
VIIL-THE BRETON LANGUAGE.
The tourist who confines himself to the railway-
route, or the great highways of Brittany, will have
little need of Breton, and indeed few opportunities
of hearing it spoken ; but in the interior the old
language still remains the chief, and in some
villages of Flnlsterre the only, menus of com-
munication.
It is somewhat beside the nature of the present
publication to go into a philological discussion
upon the ancient tongue; but a few words upon its
origin, and a glossary of some of the prefixes and
affixes which enter into the composition of names
or places, as well as a few colloquial phrases, will
be both interesting and useful to the reader.
It is a moot question whether the Breton lan-
guage was aboriginal, or brought in by the insular
Britons in early times; but the great similarity
between Breton, Welsh, and Cornish, seems to
prove that they were cognate languages, derived
from one Celtic original. It was an oral rather than
a written language, and indeed the Druids, who
kept all knowledge they possessed within a select
circle, only gave oral instruction.
Breton antiquarians consider it to be the original
tongue of the world before the dispersion of
Babel. At any rate, they say it was spoken in
Paradise, and that Adam derived his name from a
morsel (a tarn) of the apple sticking in his throat,
and Eve hers from the water (ev) which she brought
him to wash it down.
Introduction.]
THE BRETON LANGUAGE.
17
V
&
8
on?
A middle-age legend, the " Romans de Brat,"
edited by Geoffrey of Monmouth, accounts for the
purity of the Breton language by recording that
Brutus' s sons, who invaded Brittany, killed all the
males, and failing to get other wives from Eng-
land (the 71,000 virgins sent over having perished
in a storm), married their slaves, the Breton
women, but cut out their tongues to prevent tbsftr
children talking any but the Celtic language.
Mr. E. Norris's work on the " Cornish Drama,"
and that of Lhuydon the "Ancient British Lan-
guage," show that the Cornish and Welsh are
almost identical with the Armorican; and any
differences which existin words admitof easy expla-
nation by a liberal application of the primary rule in
Celtic etymologies, that many of the initial letters
are liable to variation.
Alfred de Courcy goes so far as to say that there
are two fundamental rules in etymology: — 1. To
take no account of the vowels. 2. To take less of
the consonants. But this is merum sal. All initial
consonants are interchangeable for their similar
sounds. The B sound may be written as b, or
m or v. Thus— Bara might be mara, or vara.
C may be ch, g, or h. P may be b, f, or ph. D
may be t or z, or th, pronounced as t. F may be
m or v, Ac But labial letters are not changed to
dental, or dental to labiak Many of the vowels also
are interchangeable, particularly a and e. Great
differences also exist between the different dialects
of Cotes du Nord, Morbihan, and Finisterre ; this
cannot be wondered at when we consider that
Breton has never been a literary language, and
that no standard exists by which the purity of the •
tongue can be maintained. As might be expected,
the divergence is greatest where the contact with
strangers is greatest, the wilder west having best •
preserved the old form. Legonidec's work on the t
"Breton Language" maybe consulted with advan
tage; and Villemarque's "Bartas Breix," or oldi
Breton ballads, will give a good idea of the written i
language. Nothing but a long residence among, the i
natives will give any idea of the pronunciation,!
which is rapid, harsh, and guttural, in most of the*
male throats, but exceedingly soft and euphonious i
from the lip* of the women.
Abelard, who lived for some time as superior of i
the monastery of S. Glides, near Sarzeau, describes'
B
the Breton language in anything but flattering
terms. He calls it " Lingua mihifurpis et lgnota;"
and to strangers it appears like the Welsh, a col-
lection of barbarous sounds in an unknown
tongue.
The Breton language has, of course, greatly lost
its original purity from an admixture with Nor-
man French as well as Latin. Many word* may
also be traced to the lingua franca, which Breton
adventurers picked up in the Levant on their way
to the Crusades. On the frontier also, between 8.
Malo and Nantes, it became so Frenchified aa to
lose its identity; and the true Breton language is
only spoken in the western portion of the peninanla .
A correspondent remarks— "If we* examine
attentively the names of tbe various places as
we advance into Lower Brittany we find that
the names of the towns, parishes, villages,
and various places suddenly change, and that
they all commence with characteristic mono-
syllables ; by which means we ean easily trace at
eaeh step the places where (as they are called)
the Insular Bretons (Welsh) established them-
selves when they emigrated in the fifth century.
Some parts of Lower Brittany were not pene-
trated by the Normans during their invasion in
the ninth century, which accounts for their re-
taining their language to this day. Indeed? a
traveller should always be provided with a gnMe
to act as an interpreter, as in many places he will
visit French is not spoken. Since the Norman in-
vasion the names have in a measure changed, and
In a very absurd way, by joining on a French to a
Breten word without any regard to the signfflea-
tionof the latter. This is principally to be found
in the names ot the old country houses, chateaux,
and largo farms. Thus in 'Ville-Helio,' ' V11U-
Gourlo,' Ac It will be observed that the first
part of these names ' Ker ' has been translated into
'Ville,' whilst the latter part remains in Breton,
probably from the fact of the Normans not know-
ing its signification. Indeed by the names of the
vavtoma places, and without the aid of a map, it is
possible- almost to mark out the frontiers of tbe
places where the Welsh and Cornish people settled
when they emigrated to this part of France."
Very few of our countrymen have evernantevtd
the Breton language, although to a Welshman the
52; <* U»H U , at
Introduction.]
Coum
Croas (W. Croe*s)
Da
Din (W. din, tin
dinas)
Di>l
Dou
Dour (C. dowr,
dwfr)
Du
Dulas or dacnlas
El (W. Hell)
Knn
Esgair
Faon, Fau, Fou
Free
Fin
Frot, Frout
Gait
-Gamp or Gand
Garth (W. Lluarth)
Glan
Glas
GI6
Glyn
Goct (or Coot)
Gooz, Guer
Goloed(W.Gwlad)
Gor
Goueru
Gouic
Goz
Gucrn
Que
Guiu or Gucn
Hen
Hir
Hocl or Mocl
Uucl (C. Wheal)
Ic
Is or Ys
TUB BRETON LANGUAGE.
Dingle, also W.
A cross
Good, W.
ftnd {- A fortified city
(A daleorlowlyingvalley,
/ also lying along, as of
( stones
Water; Dou-sal,salt water
W | Water
Black; W.andG.
Inky black
River, generally tidal.
The definite article
A long ridge, W .
J Beach tree; Faou-et,
\ beech wood
( Babbling, prattling, as
< of water, or jackdaws,
I w.
Limit, end, W. and C.
A torrent, running water
Same as alt, high
Field, W.
A place of encampment
Bank of river, W.
Bine or green, W.
Coal, W.
A glen, W.
A wood, W.
A brook .
A country, district
(Over, above; Qor-wrein
\ Gourin
' Alder-tree, also W.water-
t meadows
A suburb
(Poor; Goz-ker, a poor
\ village
(A place planted with nl
I
tier trees
I White W. and C.
Old, ancient, also W.;
fIen-pont % Heu-nebont,
or Ilen-er-pont, the old
bridge.
Long, lofty
High
A hole or mine
(Small; Croas ic, a small
( cross
Low, W.
Isaf
Innis (W. Ynys)
Kaer, Kcr, Caer (see
Caer)
Kil, or Qull
Lan, Land (W. Llan)
Lech
Lenn Lin (W. Llyn'
G. Linn)
Les, Lis
Les or Lys
Lezar(W. Llidiard)
Lezou (W. Llydaw)
1
{
I
Loc
Loc or Log
Lud (W. Lludw)
Lys
Mnel
Maen, Men
Meineg
Maes, Mes
Mana (W. and -C, Ma-
nach or Mynach)
Mar, Meur, Mor (W.
Mawr)
March, or in composi-
tion, Merc
}
19
. Lowest
Island, insula, G.
' A town, village, or larre
farm; Ker-grUt, the
village of Christ ; A'«r-
en-toir, Carento or
the country of the
statrr, *c. It often
merely indicates a
given locality.
(A cell or hermitage,
Quily, Opel-new, Kel-
nue, the new hermitage
A church, monastery,
place ; properly, an en-
closure
A place, also (of stones)
curved or slanting
A pond, or pool ; Plu-her-
lin, the parish near to
the pond
(The edge; Let-Coif, the
( edge of the wood
J The king's court or palace,
1 W.
(A gate ; C. Liasherd, a
\ promontory.
Brittany, becanse, as
Daru says, it was a
"terra letica" to which
captives were sent aj
colonists (?)
A place or site, a hermit-
age ; Loe-Owner, the
site of St. Guiner; Loc-
mini, Loc-meneh. the
place (or convent) of
the monks; Loc-queltas,
the place or site of St.
Gild as.
A lake, pronounced lo
Cinders
Same as Les
(A lordship; Mal-guenae
s or Mal-guenec, the lord-
(. ship of the woods.
A stone; Ker-men. W.
and C.
Stony
The fields ; Median, W.
A monk. (Gr. monachct.)
{
(Great; Ploe-meur, the
( great parish, G.
A stallion, thence great,
as in Arabic, (compare
in English, horse-chest-
nut, horse- radish
I
~*
n wgrtuunm
-Sat aerjicnseun.
is* •»* JShi* ho»
j* lane jauero^gt t«r£i*
u 1*2?? - tnr m* !**■■ Mr jtaitfara
fca* yth*l»*u*f awn**- vt^um
fa<S4li4gltfc* <H ^ue jf*?** wf -sue Trssu
It^vibftK* lemi*ae*ua~ "IS* fcrC
*-«»* d nspn nr 1* ft Ivan, ran* ?&*• is
tHmntmf
*H wvr4* wmA
<L Gaelic.)
W. mmd C
of
a larger
t'r
AU
A*n (W, imwmi
Art, A**
Ar4 or erd
Ar
A fan* Aton
fine*, llihan
Ban or ran
DftltnaJaa
and C. (ala
abyi
or
▼fl-
G*rai*fc.
fAla*
(
* f 6*1, the
limdti.Mor
jUfMU, W
4 or eJlt)
(A pit, gnlf,
\ precipice
j Sea shore;
< lage on the
tltffh, W„ C, and G„ but
< ar-dha Mack
(Upon, on, bordering; on
< >*r-*oor, a Tillage near
( the sea, W.
Artrer
/Small, little, W.Bychan,
I tame as C. Vanghan
{High, lofty, famous, W.
and C, Bangor, the
eminent choir.
(A common corered with
1 broom
I
Car; alsaKcr
Carre' (W. Carreg)
Castell
Cle\Clos
Co&orGo5t(W Coed)
Com or Chom (prep.)
Conan
Cone
Cdr(W.Gdr)
Corn-cr-hoSt
Corph or Gorph
Corre* (G. Coir)
^^ Carre hi,, ahi|rh
Fortress, Roman castell
~ "-^Mwwn casteUam
) «* % 2 elot,u * of St
i Gweree
I
forest; Ar-
rf—TTv* - ' ***■* ***• inte-
rior ©f a woody county
A chief
A harbour
A choir
Vm*«« near the Trood
»o*y or corpse, W.
Highland
>A 5^torhmock; Cruc-
Creach, Crach, Crug TW»r?A tumulus of
BeU tumtt lua at
Introduction.]
Coum
Croas (W. CroSs)
Da
Din (W. din, tin
dinas)
Dol
Dou
Dour (C. dowr,
dwfr)
Du
Dulas or daoulas
El (W. Hell)
Enn
Esgair
Faon, Fau, Fott
Free
Fin
Frot, Frout
Gait
<3amp or Gand
Garth (W. Lluarth)
Glan
Glas
Glo
Glyn
Goct (or Coct)
Gocz, Guor
Goloed(W.Gwlad)
Gor
Goueni
Gouic
Goz
Gucrn
Gue
Guin or Gucn
Hen
IHr
Hocl or Mod
llucl (C. Wheal)
Ic
Is or Ys
TUB BRETON LANGUAGE.
i:
Dingle, also W.
A cross
Good, W.
and J- A fortified city
"A daleorlowlyingvalley,
also lying along, as of
stones
Water; Dou-sal,salt water
W l Water
Black; W. and G.
Inky black
River, generally tidal.
The definite article
A long ridge, W.
J Beach tree ; Faov-et,
\ beech wood
( Babbling, prattling, as
< of water, or jackdaws,
( w.
Limit, end, W. and C.
A torrent, running water
Same as alt, high
Field, W.
A place of encampment
Bank of river, W.
Blue or green, W.
Coal, W.
A glen, W.
A wood, W.
A brook .
A country, district
(Over, above; Gor-wrHn
\ Gourin
' Alder-tree, also W. water-
( meadows
A suburb
(Poor; Goz-ker, a poor
( village
(A place planted with al-
( der trees
I White W.andC.
Old, ancient, also W. ;
Hen-pont % lleu-nibont,
or Hen-er-pont y the old
biidge.
Long, lofty
High
A hole or mine
(Small; Groasic, a small
\ cross
Low, W.
\
Isaf
Innls (W. Ynys)
Kaer, Ker, Caer (see
Caer)
Kil, or Quil
Lan, Land (W. Llan)
f
!
Lech
Lenn Lin
G. Linn)
(W. Llyn
1
Les, Lis
Les or Lys
Lezar (W. Llidiard)
Lezou (W. Llydaw)
Loc
Loc or Log
Lud (W. Lludw)
Lys
Mael
Maen, Men
Meineg
Maes, Mes
. Lowest
Island, insula, G.
A town, village, or larje
farm; Ker-frist, the
village of Christ ; Ker-
en-fob; Carento or
the country of the
stater, &c. It often
merely indicates a
given locality.
(A cell or hermit? ge,
-. QtttVy, Quel-neue, Kel-
i nue\ the new hermitage
A church, monastery,
place ; properly, an en-
closure
(A place, also (of stones)
( curved or slanting
A pond, or pool; Plu-her-
lin, the parish near to
the pond
(The edge; Les-Coit, the
( edge of the wood
J The king's court or palace,
1 w.
(A gate ; C. Liazhcrd, a
\ promontory.
/■Brittany, becanse, as
Daru says, it was a
"terra letica" to which
captives were sent aj
colonists (?)
' A place or site, a hermit-
age ; Loe-Otiiner, the
site of St. Guiner; Loc-
mine\ Loc-meneh. the
place (or convent) of
the monks; Loc-queltas,
the place or site of St.
Gildas.
A lake, pronounced lo
Cinders
Same as Les
(A lordship; Mdl-gvenae
% or Mal-ffuenec, the lord-
ly ship of the woods.
(A stone; Ker-men. W.
1 and C.
Stony
The fields ; Mes-lan, W.
^
Ma „ n ach ( «k^ d ih') Ma "} Am «» k - «>'.—-**>
Mar, Meur, Mor (W.
Mawr)
March, or in composi-
tion, Merc
(Great ; Floe-menr, the
( great parish, G.
stallion, thence great,
Arabic, (compare
English, horse-che'* -
horse- radish
(A stall
j as in
) in En
1 nut, 1
22
BBADSHAW'S BRITTAKT.
[Introduction.
tingle upright stones may have been objects of
worship or veneration (see Leviticus xxvi., v. 1,
marginal notes) and may be referred to a similar
origin with the Lingam of India; indeed, the
peasant women of Brittany still resort to the
menhir*, especially that of Plouarzel and the
Men-ar-Dragon of Ker-Rohou, in the hope that
by contact therewith they may be cured of ster-
ility. Even in the case of the upright stones,
however, we have the pillar of Absalom, which he
reared to keep his name in remembrance, probably
intending to be buried beside it. Homer — Iliad,
xxiii, 884— in speaking of the burial of Patroclus
makes Nestor refer to two " smooth white stones "
as placed cither to mark a grave or to serve some
special purpose, the origin of which, however, was
even then lost in the mists of antiquity (Homer
may be dated 600 b.c.) The pillar and '• heap of
witness" of Gen. xxxi, 45-53, the twelve stones of
Gilgal, and the commemorative mound of the
famous Ten Thousand, are examples of mound*,
•fee , erected for purposes other than sepulchral.
The great circles are much more likely to have
beau connected with worship and used as temples,
though mnuy of these have proved to be burial
places, or to have formed the nucleus of interments
In a similar way with Christian places of worship.
The custom of erecting tumuli or barrows over
the remains of distinguished men is of the greatest
antiquity. It is referred to in Homer, Diodorus,
Fausanio?, Virgil, Ac, and was not extinct in
Denmark so late as 950 a.d. It is worthy of con-
sideration whether the primary motive was to
honour and preserve the memory of the illustrious
dead, or to preserve the body from the jaws of
wild beasts, whose stomachs not improbably
formed the usual grave of the solitary, or poor
and undistinguished individual in earlier times,
at any rate in Europe, where we have no reason
to assume the existence of some long extinct
civilization. In Scotland, burials frequently took
place on islands, to secure the corpse against
wolves. Be this as it may, it is thought that the
custom of interment in tumuli may date as far
back as 5,000 years ago.
The various descriptions of Megalithic remains
are known in the Breton language as menhir* for
peul-vans), dolmens, cromlech*, Ac.
I. Menhirs, or upright pillars (men or man,
stone; Mr long). Some of the largest of these
have been overthrown, possibly by earthquakes,
and broken in the fall. They are found either
singly (which is the case, as a rule, with the
largest) or in long alignments, as at Garnac.
II. Dolmens, or flat stones (dot, lying along),
set up on other upright stones, formerly sup-
posed to be Druidical altars. Antiquaries, how-
ever, seem to have decided that they were rather
places of sepulture, as with a few exceptions they
were all originally within galgals or barrows. "A
complete burying place may be described as a
dolmen, covered by a tumulus and surrounded by
a circle of stones. Often we have only the
tumulus, sometimes only the dolmen, and some-
times again the stone circle only. " (Sir J.Lubbock's
"Pre-historlc Times.")
III. Logan stones, or pierres branlantes (Welsh,
Maen sigl), rocking stones, set up or naturally
disposed on a point of rock, so as to move with a
slight touch, if rightly applied. The superstitious
peasantry still regard them as an ordeal. Hus-
bands who are suspicious of their wives resort to
them, and if their doubts are just, the great stone,
which a child's finger might set rocking, will
remain immovable to their strongest efforts.
IV. Oalgals, accordlngto the French acceptation
of the word are w immense heaps of stones (in the
rough) not mixed with earth or united together
by cement, having a conical form, their height
being equal to that of the highest barrows. The
word gaJgal is singularly like Gilgal in the Bible,
but can have no etymological connection with it.
V. Barrows (Breton, Mane) are heaps of stones
and earth frequently containing a Kist-vaen
(stone-chest), the sarcophagus of some Celtic (?)
warrior.
VI. Pierres-a-batsins; large flat stones, found
in many places, and from the cavities or hollows
(basslns) cut or worn in them, supposed at one
time to be altars for human sacrifices: some
regard the hollows as having been made by cutting
out querns (stones for handralll s) from the rock:
others attribute them simply to the action of the
air and rain. It is worthy of remark that at least
in two cases these querns have been found in situ,
partly cut out (see under Guerrande, Route XI. X
Introduction.]
ANTIQUITIES.
23
and in another case the covering stone of a dolmen
has these hollows on the under surface. The
peasants consider that sitting down in them is
good for rheumatism.
VII. Cromlech* are stone circular or oval en-
closures supposed to have been connected with
religious rites; Ihey are usually found near a
dolmen. These stones are arranged at regular
distances, and their number seems to have had
some significance. Twelve, nineteen, thirty, sixty,
are numbers which repeatedly occur. In no in-
stance has any stone which could be considered as
a sacrificial altar been found within these en-
closures ; those stones which have been supposed
by some to have served this purpose, are found at
a slight distance outside the circles. The follow-
ing is the definition of the French antiquaries. (It
may be observed that the meaning given to lech is
open to doubt.) " On nomme Cromlech, en tcrme
d'areheologie Celtlque, une enceinte soit circulalre
solt elliptique, forme*e par des Men-hirs ou Peul-
vaiis plant e's, ou par des blocs de plcrre plus ou
molns voluraineux, simplcment pose's a nu sur le sol;
ce mot vlent de deux mots Celtlque s, 'Crom ou
Croum' qui signifie* courbure, et 4 Lech ou le*ach,*
pierre sacree; litteralement il veut done dire,
piei-res sacree* en courbe, en cercle. Nous devons
fitire remarquer lei, que dans le systeme de ces
grossiers monuments de la religion des Celtes, le
Dolmen sur lequel on Immolalt les victimes est
constamment place* en-de*hors de l'enceinte du
sanctuaire comme si Ton eut voulu eViter qu'il fut
ensanglante* par ces sacrifices barbares."
"Allee* Couvertes. Quelques antiquaires out con-
fendu ces monuments avec les Dolmens do grande
dimension. Le Dolmen est l'assemblage de
plerres brutes, etpacee* entre elles, grosslerement
disposes sur deux lignes a peu pres paralleles, et
re"couvertes d'une ou deux plerres."
" L'alle'e couverte, quoique forme'e de plerres
egalement brutes, annonce plus de soin dans sa
construction. Les plerres verticales qui en tor-
ment les parois tont contigue* les une* aux autre*;
elles ont une hauteur e*gale, et les tables qui les
recouvrent re*posent en plein sur elles. Ainsi le
beau monument des Pierres Plates a Loc-Marla-
quer, est une all€e converts; la grotte de Gav'r-
Inni* et cellc de Plougonmelen sont des allee*
couvertes. Ces trois monuments sont re*unis sous la
m£me application, quoique les deux demiers
soient dan* de* GaJgats, et que le premier soit en
plein air; parccquc toutes les allees couvertes
ont e*te* primttivement ensevelies sous des Tumulus
ou des Galgals, et n'e'taient autre chose que des
tombeaux."
The/above is a very correct definition; hence
the u Alle*e Couverte" cannot be confounded with
either the Dolmen or the Grottes aux Fe*es. The
Allies Couvertes are ulso called by some anti-
quaries " Coffres de Plerres."
The most remarkable examples of the different
kinds are— of Menhir* those of Locmariaker,
Qulberon, Lanvau, Plouarzel, Kerpenhir, S.
Samson, near Dlnan, somewhat out of the per-
pendicular from the attacks of treasure seekers.
There are also two In Belle-Isle, called Jean an
Jeanne de KerleMan.
List of Menhirs at Carnac (according to the
latest survey), including those fallen, broken, or
built up in boundary walls.
Menec l,169v
Petit Menec 273 Jheee extend in a direct line
V from the cromlech of Menec
Kermario 982 /for quite three kilometree.not
t„v»«i,i itfii including the gap between
LeManlo 160 Menec and Kermario.
Kerlescan 306 ;
Kerserho(Erdeven)l,227-These latter are separate.
Total 4,117
Of Dolmen* those of Er Roch, near Yanncs;
the Tabic de Ce*sar, or des Marchands, and les
Plerres Plates, near Locmariaker; the Roche
Bigot and Roche Morvan, near Cadoudal; the
dolmen of Kerfily, of Kernand and Penhap,
on the Monk's Island, in the sea of Morbihan.
The Logan Stones of Pontuig and Huelgoet;
the Roche-Blnct, between Vannes and Tre"dlon;
Mcn-Dogan, near Concarneau; and Cos Caste],
near Trdgastel, still retain their rocking motion
and their legendary powers.
The Q algal of Gav'r Jnni* will be described ad
locum. The mound is a galgal, as being composed
of stones; the Celtic monument which it contains
, is an " Allee Couverte"
94
BBADSHAWfi BHUTAN Y.
[Introduction.
Marram or tumuli are common in the Morbihan,
particularly at Tumlac, near flarseau; the Butte a
Madame, near Ploameur; the Butte dee Tombes, at
Tre^iorenteut>;> the Mane* Lud, or Mountain of Ashes,
near Loeatarlaker, and many others which have
been found to contain ashes and sepulchral remains.
Pietres 4 ba*$in$ at Cctitsal, where the peasants
call upon S. Stephen to cure them of their lum-
bago; at 8. Guen, Gras d'or, Hesqutfno, and Rohalgo.
Carnac and its vicinity are the greatest field for
antiquarian research, and its avenues of many
thousand upright stones will ever be a subject for
wonder and conjecture. A very interesting book
treating on the various sculptures and incisions
which have been found on the stones of the tumuli
and barrows, was published at Vannes, by Dr. G.
de Glosmadeuc, President of the Socie*te* Poly-
mathique du Morbihan; it is named "Sculptures
Lapidaires et signes grave's des Dolmens dans le
Morbihan." The plates are very good and the in-
scriptions well delineated. It is, unfortunately,
now out of print.
2. Roman Remadcs.— Although many of the relics
of the past are attributed to the Romans, and Julius
Caesar, in particular, has left a lasting remembrance
of his prowess, yet there are fewmonuments of their
occupation. Many localiti es correspond with their
Roman names, such as Erquy— formerly RhegJnea;
Corseul, the chief town of the Curiosolites ; Vannes,
the chief city of the V eneti ; and a few Gastella also,
on elevated spots, still retain their Roman appella-
tions ; but Dariorigum, now Locmariaker, has quite
disappeared; and Blabia, now Port Louis, only
exists in the name of the river Blavet. Nantes
still recalls the name of the Nannetes, and Rennes
and Rhedon, of the Rhedones of Caesar. In many
parts of Brittany remains of Roman roads, and the
foundations of Roman villas are found. At Bour-
gerel, near Vannes, have been found several pieces
of tesselated pavement; at Kostang, the remains
of a bath, and a Roman camp with its praetorian
eminence. Near Locmariaker were also dis-
covered, in 1853, the walls of a Roman house and
the outer wall of a circus, built about 860 A.D.,
with several coins of Magnentius. Near Carnac,
at the Bossenno, in 1874-5, have been laid open
several Gallo- Roman buildings of the second cen-
tury, including dwelling-houses, baths, a temple,
and a blacksmith's- shop. The Museums of Dinan,
Rennes, and Vannes have some interesting relics
of Roman occupation, inscribed stones, statuary,
pottery, coins, Sec.; but perhaps the most singular
of the Roman relics is the statue of the Venus
Quirilpily, which still stands in the garden of the
chateau of that name, near Baud, which will be
noticed ad locum.
The curious circular Chapel of Lanleff is by
some supposed to be a Roman temple.
3. Ecclesiastical Remains. —The road-side
crosses, which may still be seen at most of the cross
roads in Brittany, are also of great antiquity.
Formerly, there was one at every cross-road, some
of very simple form, four short limbs with a circu-
lar disc, on which was carved a rude image; some
much higher, and of more elaborate sculpture,
with figures of the Saviour, the Saint Esprit, the
two Marys, as at Dinan, S. Caradec, and a thousand
others, but these are more recent. The earliest
date from the tenth century; but the Calvinists
made sad work of them in the religious wars, and it
was calculated that it would take more than a mil-
lion sterling to restore the old crosses of Morbihan
alone. The wooden erections of modern art are
the most repulsive and horrifying objects it is pos-
sible to conceive. They are generally ghastly life-
like representations of the Saviour on the cross,
with a large allowance of red paint, and an array
of hammers, nails, spears, the pincers, crown of
thorns,lanthorn,&c~,rangedaeatrophyunderneath.
The Churches of Brittany are also of venerable
antiquity and exceeding beauty. Those that sur-
vived the iconoclasm and furious bigotry of the
Calvinists and Republicans attest the zeal and
living faith of the people of Brittany, poytcatholique
par excellence. Most of the churches were built in
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when Chris-
tianity may be said to have at last routed Pagan-
ism in Brittany. Tradition corroborates the pro-
bability that about this period, when the Wars of
the Succession were ended, a kind of religious
enthusiasm, fostered too by emissaries of the
Pope, took possession of the people, and with a
grand impulse and effort they set to work to raise
up worthy temples to the God of their fresh and
fervent faith. A band of JVumo-mapoM, or foreign
architects, traversed Brittany and directed .the
Introduction.]
•ANT1QU1TIK&.
25
good work ; but every noble devoted bis fortune
to tbis object, and every peasant became an
architect and a mason, and each vied with his
neighbour in contributing his share of money or
labour, bis stone or cartage, his timber or land, to
complete the work which was to immortalise his
pariah and himself ; and faineant was he who hung
back and had no part or lot in finding a fitting
logement for the Bon Dicu. And so the quarries
gaped, and the woods fell, and saw and axe, and
hammer and chisel, fashioned the primeval oaks,
and the granite and kersanton, into these lasting
monuments of piety and zeal.
To speak x>f the majority of these beautiful
churches as ruined and desecrated, the carved
work broken down with axes and hammers, the
saints decapitated, the roofs fallen in, the pave-
ment up-torn, and the lofty towers the abode of
the owl and bat, is only to rehearse the sad story
of the fanaticism which alike vented its fury on
our English cathedrals and churches; but, as in
our own country a better era has begun, the
churches long silent, deserted, and damp-stained,
are being restored to their former splendour, and
the Imperial hand which scattered its favours
broadcast over France did not omit to make
Brittany a participator of its largesse.
Many of the finest Churches in Brittany owe
their origin to some miracle or vow. Such are the
Churches of Folgoe't (or the fool of the wood), of
Notre Dame de Roncier, at Josselin, of S. Jean du
Doigt, of S. Anne of Aaray, 8. Barbe near FaouSt,
and- 8. Mathurin of Moneontour, whose magnifi-
cence arises from the miracles performed on their
respective sites ; while the fine Church of "Bonne
Nouvelle" in Rennes, arose from a vow of the Earl
of Montfort to build a church when he heard the
good news of the death of De Blois.
The finest and most interesting churches of
Brittany are in Ille-et-Vilaine— those of 8. Halo
and Rennes Cathedral.
In Cdtes du Nord— -8. Sauveur, Dinan ; Moneon-
tour; Trfguier, with its beautiful cloisters; the
circular church of Lanleff; the upper church at
Lannion; several at Ouingamp, and many little
country churches, as Le Moustoir, S. Brlac, Ac.
Finisterre is very rich in churches. Besides the
Cathedral of Quimper,>with its fine mister spires,
lately restored, and .Qnimperle', .with its circular
apse and crypt, it boasts of a host of churches in
the north-west, superior to any in Brittany;— 8.
Pol de Leon, with its lofty spire ; Folgoe't, with its
beautiful traceries ; 8. Jean du Doigt, 8. Thegon-
nec, Lampaul, Guimillau, La Martyre, and Lanba-
der; all miracles of ingenuity and labour, and the
more remarkable for the poverty and want of
civilisation of the country in which they stand.
In Morbihan we find also many fine churches,
particularly the Cathedral of Vannes ; the miracle
Church of 8. Anne, near Auray; the exquisite
gem of Kernascleden ; the curiously ornamented
Churches of 8. Barbe, 8. Fiacre, Plogrmel, and Car-
nac, and the Church of Loanine*, dedicated to 8.
Colomban, patron of idiots.
The Lower Loire has little in the way of ecclesi-
astical architecture, with the exception of the
Cathedral of Nantes.
Calvaries are a peculiar feature of Breton
churches. They are generally an erection of stone
in the churchyard, consisting of a square gallery
on arches over a deep pit, the sides adorned with
sculptures, and in the centre a lofty stone crucifix.
The pit is intended to act as an ossuary or charnel
pit, to receive the surplus relics of humanity cast
up each year in digging graves in the crowded
churchyards, previously, however, to their being
stacked away in the bone-house. Many of these
Calvaries are beautifully ornamented with life-
size figures in Kersanton granite, representing
the various scenes of our Lord's Passion. On the
jour des mortt in some parishes, in others during
passion week, the Calvary is used as a pulpit, from
which the priest harangues the people on righte-
ousness, temperance, and the judgment to come,
illustrating his subject by pointing to the sculp-
tured figures of the Passion, and of Hell opening
wide its mouth. The most beautiful Calvaries are
those of Guimillau, of which an illustration is given,
Plougastel, Pleyben, and Arzano, all in Finistere,
and Gue*henno in Morbihan.
There are also many old Abbeys worth visiting,
particularly Le'hon, near Dinan ; Beauport, near
Paimpol ; Landevennec, beyond Brest, Ac, Ac.
4. Feudal Remains.— The Feudal Castles of
Brittany are not less numerous or interesting
than the churches. The troublous times which
w
r >' 26
BBAD8HAW S BRITTJLVT.
[Introduction.
our epitome of its history reveals would naturally
lead us to expect that every city should be forti-
fied, and every man's house his castle. And such
is the case: every hill is or has been crowned
with a fortification ; every chateau and farm-
house has stood a siege, and everywhere shattered
towers, and ruined donjons, and ivy-grown walls,
tell of the turbulent past of Brittany. Some of
the old towns retain considerable traces of the old
fortifications, particularly Vitre*, S. Malo, Dinan,
Pontivy, Moncontour, Vanncs, and Hennebont, in
which the old battlemcnted and machicolated*
walls still remain, and arc mostly used for prome-
nades. Some old chateaux are still used as resi-
dences, such as Combourg, Trecesson, Josselin,
Pontivy, Ac, but the majority are grand, old, ivy-
grown ruins — crumbling- walls standing on a bare
rock, or above the green turf-grown moats, on
which sheep graze and children play; such are
Ltfhon, Hunaudaye, Hardouinaye, Montafiland,
near Dinan ; such is La Garaye, made famous by
Mrs. Norton's pen. Such are Le Guildo, Coe*tf rec,
Tonquedec, and Sucinio, and a thousand more
now silent and deserted, which once resounded
with the shouts of revelry and the tramp and clash
of steel-clad hosts.
CHRONOLOGICAL AND ANTIQUARIAN
NOTES.
The various developments of civilisation which,
judging from the evidences of human industry
which remain to us, have characterised the
existence of man on the globe, have been classified
by antiquaries under three heads, vis. :
I. The Age of Stone ; sub-divided into —
a. The Palaeolithic Period,
o. The Neolithic Period.
II. The Age of Bronze; or, the Bronze Period.
III. The Age of Iron : or, the Iron Period
The Chipped-stonc or Palaeolithic Period is long
before the dawn of historical tradition. Its dura-
tion is uncertain. The arts remained stationary
during these re rote times; flint instruments,
found in large quantities in both the higher and
lower levels of the Somme valley and other drift
formations, arc neary the same shape, Ac, though
" Machicolitioru, from Pr. machecoultt (origin unknown*.
' — in the wall under the battlements, through
-<eged used to throw down mlasUes or pour
. their MuilenU.
separated by a vast distance of time. The people
were probably troglodytes, and to them belong
the remains found in the bone caverns, and the
rock sculpture ; they appear to have domesticated
the dog, but no other animal.
The Polished-stone or Neolithic Period is also
pre-historic. The nations who used these imple-
ments seem to have entered Europe from Central
Asia as far back as 1500 years before the com-
mencement of the Bronze Period, i.e., between 8000
and 4000 B.C. Some think this date too modern.
They brought with them the cultivation of cereals,
breeding of cattle, inhumation, and erection of
dolmens, Ac. ; their tumuli contain polished stone
implements and weapons, and rude pottery.
The Bronze Period lasted in Europe from
1900 B.C. until 200 ad. Stonehcnge, with its
270 tumuli, belongs to this period. The absence of
articles made of either copper or tin, uncombined,
seems to indicate that the art of making bronze
was introduced into, not invented in Europe. If
it was not a new and distinct nation that used the
bronze implements, there must have been artificers
who travelled from tribe to tribe exercising and
transmitting their art, for there is great resem-
blance and homogeneity of shape in these weapons
and implements, which fact seems to point dis-
tinctly to unity of origin.
The Celtic nations came into Europe viA the
Danube, Vistula, and Dnieper. They entered France
vid Marseilles and the Rhone. They interred in
tumuli after incineration.
The Druids went over into France from Eng-
land; according to Julius Csssar, their neophytes
went to England to be initiated. Much that has
been written about them is unsupported by trust-
worthy evidence.
The Roman Period commenced in France 69 B.C.,
at which time money was first coined there.
The French antiquaries think that money was
coined in Gaul prior to the coming of the Romans.
IXTBRMEKTS.
No Paleolithic tumuli or barrows have been
found, but this system of burial prevailed in the
North and West of Europe from the Neolithic
Period until the advent of Christianity. I was
finally abandoned in the 10th century.
Many of the largest tumuli appear from their
Introduction.]
RELIGION AWD SUPERSTITIONS.
27
contents to have been constructed by a people who
possessed no metal, and most of those in Brittany,
e.g., those at Mont St. Michel (Carnac) and Mftne*-
er-Hroec may be considered as belonging to the
Stone Age.
Secondary Interments, which are met with in
the tumuli, were forbidden in the reign of Charle-
magne, and burning the dead was made a capital
offence by the Capitulary of that Monarch, a.d.
785.
A very large number of dolmen?, having an
entrance through a hole in one of their supports,
were examined in India by Capt. Taylor. This
peculiarity has been met with in similar monu-
ments in Brittany, and occurs also in Syria.
NOTES ON CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.
BOMAK.
Primary: from the 5th to the 9th century.
Secondary: from the end of the 9th to the llth
century.
Tertiary: 12th century.
Until the 12th century the arches wore semi-
ci cular and the ornamentation taken from the
Roman style. Great changes in the style of
ornamentation took place in the 9th and 12th
centuries.
ogival. *
Primary : 18th century.
Secondare: 14th century-
Tertiary : 1.1th and 16th centuries.
The Arches were ogival; the style became
very elegant in the middle of the 13th century;
was modified in the 14th century, and became
debased in the 15th century.
RCKAISSAXCK.
The second half of the 16th century.
Modern : 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries.
The 16th century raw the return of semi-circular
arches, but the architecture did not assume the
classic forms until the middle of the 17th century.
The Figaro Of Christ was rarely exposed on*
the cross between the 6th and 10th centur'es, and
was rarely sculptured before the 13th century.
During the llth and 13th centuries the figure was
engraved, but wearing a long vestment, and with
the hair down to the shoulders, though sometimes
wearing a sort of skull-cap, each of the feet being
nailed separately. Before the llth century the
figure on the cross had a sort of jacket with sleeves
and trousers. In the 15th century the figure was
sculptured naked, having a waist cloth and crown
of thorns.
Prior to the 9th century no Ornaments what-
ever were placed on the altars, the Bible only
being on them. Crosses were first placed there
in the 10th century.
During tho 12th century a cross, one candle-
stick, a chalice, and the Bible were the only things
placed on the altar. No statuary or images of
any description were placed there before the 18th
century.
Coloured Glass first introduced into churches
during the latter half of the 12th century.
PttlpltS first introduced into churches in the
15th century; at first they were on the exterior
as at Vitrei Guerao, and St. Ld. Before that time
AmbOllS were used for reading the Epistles and
the Gospels, as also for preaching.
Rood Screens and also the Monogram LH.8.
were likewise Introduced into churches in the 15th
century.
The Monogram was first used in the time of
Cmstantine. It was composed of the Greek
letters Chi (X) and Rho (PX surrounded by a circle
or nimbus, the shaft of the Rho being prolonged
through the Chi. It was usually accompanied by
A and XI, Alpha and Omega, on each side of
thn X.
X. -RELIGION AND SUPERSTITIONS.
Without in any way detracting from the merits
of the Breton character, we cannot omit a notice of
the extreme superstition which characterises it.
Probably the rugged character of the country, its
sombre skies, and isolated position may have had
much to do with this peculiarity, but there is no
doubt that at all times religious feeling has taken
a very deep root in tho Breton mind.
Paganism. — The Megallthic remains attest what
a hold the ancient religion had upon the people.
The primeval forests have mostly disappeared ; in
very few places can we say that the oaks —
Bearded with mow and la garments green, indistinct in
the twilight
Stand like Drnids of old, . . . ."—Lone/Maw.
but we can imagine the stone avenues of Carnac
and Toulinguet thronged with worshippers, and
white robed priests and garlanded Norma?
28
JUULBUM.W'8 BftlTZAKY.
[Introduction.
the lonff procession through those many-columned
aisles, and gathering the sacred misletoe with
golden sickles, and perhaps drowning the cries of
human victims with their loud-voiced death-chants
in unison with the deep diapason of the neighbour-
ing sea.
The Roman legions made havoc among the
Druidical temples and groves, but although Julius
Cnsar and his lieutenants burnt the groves and
threw down the altars, and even immolated the
priests upon the ruins, they could not extirpate the
old religion. It lingered on under persecution and
opposition, and some Merlin or Taliesin ever and
anon arose to fan the smouldering spark, and wake
up the old Pagan superstitions into being.
Chbistianity— Christianity entered these re-
mote regions with tardy and faltering steps; it
made head only so far as it jarred not with the old
superstitions. The early missionaries made large
concessions to the superstitions of the people —
they baptised the menhirs and surmounted them
with crosses ; many a heathen temple was trans-
formed, into a Christian church, and many a statue
of some mythological deity or hero of romance was
canonised as a Catholic saint, and received a hetero-
geneous worship compound from the legends of
romance and Catholic traditions. Still, therefore,
among the peasantry the old superstitions survive;
the old rites are practised with a thin coating
of Christianity over the religion of nature, and a
veneration almost amounting to idolatry attaches
to the pillar stones, the altars, fountains, and
groves of Paganism.
Such, doubtless, is the origin of the great gather-
ings of the people to pardons and feasts, and the
pilgrimages to sacred shrines undertaken by the
whole population en masse, only that Catholic
miracles have been substituted for Druidical
marvels, and the priests preside over processions
and dances which had their origin in the Druidical
mysteries.
The intensity and fervour of the Breton mind
causes them to hold with tenacity whatever they
receive. They take a long time to learn, but they
take longer to forget. It may be said of them as of
the Bourbons, "on »'a rim oublU, on n'a rim
apprise therefore when the Reformation spread |
over Europe, Brittany held out against its innova-
tions, and saw its churches wracked, and its
chateaux demolished, rather than change its faith.
Protestantism never took root in Brittany; its
tenets are widely different from the spirit of the
people; but we may predict that when they do re-
ceive it, they will embrace it and hold it fast, even
though all the rest of France should have lapsed
into infidelity.
Ckrkxonies.— A glance at some of the most
prominent ceremonies, and some of the popular
superstitions and legends may not be uninteresting
to our readers.
Pbocessions. — In most of the large towns proces-
sions take place on the principal religious festivals,
such as S. John's day, the Fite Dieu, S. Anne's day
(July 24th), and the festival of the Virgin (August
15th), which was also the Emperor's fete day*.
On these days all business Is suspended — the shops
are closed — the walls of the streets and houses
draped with white sheets and tablecloths, with
bouquets of flowers pinned on them ; and at the
corners of the streets are erected reposoirs or rest-
ing places, shrines covered with gay calico, decked
with lace and flowers, and ornamented with candle-
sticks, plate, necklaces, and all the finery that can
be heaped upon them. The meaning of these ap-
pears to be that the images which are then carried
about from one church to another to pay visits of
ceremony, may rest on their journey; it is a
custom plainly derived from the Roman lectister-
nium. The streets are clean swept, the gutters
strewed with flowers, and the procession, consisting
of splendidly attired priests, acolytes, and religious
orders advances slowly along the crowded streets.
The host, in a gold box, Is borne under a splendid
catafalque adorned with plumes, and on S. John's
day, a little boy, leading a lamb and attired in a
sheepskin, represents the Baptist. At every halt
a signal is given, and all the bystanders fall on
their knees while the benediction is given; and if
any visitor is present he will do well to remove his
hat or he will have it knocked off his head by a
gendarme's bayonet.
Every tourist in Brittany should endeavour to be
present at one of these processions ; and also at the
great gatherings called pardons and pilgrimages at
Introduction.]
the shriner of the patron saints. Every church has
its patron saint, and every saint his f6te day, on
which the inhabitants of the parish assemble to do
him honour, decking his or her statue with flowers
and ribbons, reeking- the appointed litanies, and we
grieve to say getting canonical! y tipsy afterwards.
But there are special gatherings from all parts of
Brittany, at which from 50,000 to 100,000 persons
have been known to be present at once.
Pa&dons.*— The »» pardons " are frequented for a
religious purpose, confession being made of trans-
gressions of all kinds, and plenary absolution given :
but it is equally true that the pious motive is soon
lost sight of; the sense of relief fromsin seems to
encourage the pardoned to run up a fresh score at
once, and drinking, and dancing, and fighting close
the day which began with a religious service.
Pilgrimages.— Pilgrimages are made to various
wonder-working shrines of saints, either to dis-
charge vows, and deposit ex voto offerings, or to
obtain relief from burdens spiritual or physical.
Rheumatism, ophthalmia, car ache, and deformity
come, expecting a cure, and obtain it, if we may
judge from the quantity of crutches, walking sticks,
waxen eyes, ears, legs, feet, and hands, laid upon
the altars in token of cure ; while many patron
saints, such as 3. Eloi and 8. Mathurin, have a
speciality ior horses and cows, and cure more cattle
diseases, and receive better fees than all the cow
doctors in Brittany. 8. Anne's, near Auray, is the
most celebrated of these miracle working shrines,
and such are its revenues that it is known as the
milch cow of the Bishop of Vannes; it will be
mentioned at length ad locum. The other celebrated
pardons and pilgrimages are those of Ndtre Dame
de Folgoet, Notre Dame, Rumengol, S. Jean du
Doigt, near Morlaix; S. Mathurin, of Moncontour;
Notre Dame, at Guingamp ; Notre Dame de la
Palue : the Pardon des Oiseaux, at Quimperle*; of
8. Cornel ie, at Carnac ; which are equally interest-
ing and illustrative of the religious customs of the
country. The scene should, if possible, be witnessed
by the tourist, as description would fail to convey
it* features. For days previously, gaily dressed
peasants may be seen converging along the high
roada to the place of assembly. The men with em-
broidered jackets and waistcoats, and chenille and
RELIGIOX AND MTPMrfiTlTIONS.
29
gold cord round their broad hats, and the women
with abundance of lace and embroidery, aad&ari'o-
laget on their dresses and caps. How they massage
to lodge at night is a mystery, but every
auberge is full, and bams and out*houses-arc
brought into requisition. Processions from neigh-
bouring parishes arrive with gay streamers, and
rustling banners, on which are painted pictures of
the Virgin and patron Saints; and a host of
beggars and cripples in dog carts and wooden
frames, and gibbering idiots, and the victims of
ophthalmia, and horrible cutaneeus-dlsesjaea, swarm
to these gatherings, and noisily urge their claims,
holding out the traditional scallop shell, with
prayers, not unmingied with curses.- Those who
engage in the religious ceremonies cany long wax
tapers, 8 or 10 feet high, and eagerly pay for the
privilege of bearing a banner or a pole of the
catafalque, or to share the burden of the statue,
carried in procession; and all provide themselves
with little leaden images of the patron saint, joined
to a bunch of ribbon or artificial flowers, which
they stick in their hats or pin to their kerchiefs.
A very curious and convenient custom exists at
some of these pardons ; persons who have made a
vow to perform the pilgrimage on their bare knees
a certain number of times round -some shrine
sometimes employ beggars to do it for them for a
certain sum of money; thus they consider that
they have fulfilled their vow and that the Saint
is perfectly satisfied. There are in fact many
curioas systems by which the unscrupulous satisfy
their consciences. Another plan is that of pur-
chasing hollow wax candles to bum before the
altars; it being a common thing in a household,
on the occasion of sickness or of trouble, to vow
wax candles to some Saint. If all goes well they
are placed and lighted before the image; in the
meantime the members of the family may be
frequently heard reminding each other in the
following terms :— " Remember, now, that we owe
three (or any number of) candles to the Saint* "
it is in fact viewed in the light of a debt.
The religious ceremony over, and the Messing
given, all crowd to the dancing green and there-
freshment booths, where huge cask* of cider and
emckont of eau de vie invigorate tnesnefor the
dance, which continues till late at nigh*, andeven
BKAD8HAW S BRITTANY.
[Introduction.
by moonlight; the "Ann hini goz,*' and the
"De'robe'e," and other national dances are per-
formed by a thousand couples at a time, to the
music of the biniou or bagpipes, and the bom-
bards or little drum, . with an energy and perse-
rerance which must astonish the beholder. The
extraordinary mixture of classes,, and costumes,
the bizarre character of these gatherings, the
dances, and the music, make these scenes intensely
interesting ; but the tourist is warned not to stay
too late, for as M. du Buron says in his Bretagne
Catholique : " Tout ne se passe aussi conoenablement
que Je voudrait une cdremonie dont It but est tout
religieux ; il arrive mime souvent que le pieux piltri-
nage se ter mine par une orgie, mats il n'enprouvepas
mains la foi vive dont le Bos Breton est anime'."
Mibaglk Plats. - The old miracle plays are still
performed at the village feasts by travelling show-
men, and a favourite exhibition is a collection of
wooden figures of our Lord and his disciples, not
omitting Judas Iscariot, who with Barabbas is
soundly thrashed with a cudgel, and roundly abused
to the delight of the rustics. The crucifixion is
openly travestied by travelling mountebanks, on a
cross set up and made to turn round.
Thk Priesthood. - The Breton priesthood are,
as a body, hard working, though not highly edu-
cated ; and if their eloquence is not polished, it is of
that vigorous and forcible character which obtains
great sway over their parishioners. Like Chaucer's
Poor Parsone," they visit the sick, and carry the
sacred elements to the dying, and " wide" as may
be "the parish, and houses far asunder," they omit
none in their ministrations ; but they are staunch
upholders of the old traditions ; and, sooth to say,
great miracle mongers. With their sanction the
whole catalogue of saints is held in high honour.
S. Eloi is the patron of horses, and 8. Mathurin of
cattle. 8. Anne has a special regard for cripples.
8. Colomban, for idiots. 8. Agnes is patroness of
lambs. 8. Isidore is the ploughman's saint, and 8.
Joseph the gardener's. 8. Herbert assists the
dairymaids to make butter, and 8. Yves helps the
bread*to rise ; indeed, every profession and opera-
tion of life has its patron saint, to enumerate whom
would l>e an endless task.
^on.— <<*) Faibiks. — The belief in
fairies, though somewhat shaken by the march of
intellect and the invasion of the rail, still lingers
in Brittany. Emlle Souvestre and other illustrators
of Breton life detail at great length the articles of
tliis singular creed, in which all the Celtic nations
participate.
Poulpikans and Corrigans are still supposed to
haunt the rocks and fountains and Druidical
circles.
(6) Ghosts.— Spectral washerwomen wash the
grave clothes at night at the doue's or village
washing troughs; and funeral processions, with
death candles, may be seen near the churchyards ;
the light foam of the waves conveys the souls of
those who have died at sea or in a foreign and to
their native shore, and their plaintive cries are
heard amid the murmur of the waves. Every
battlefield is, to the Breton imagination, peopled at
night with warriors in battered armour; every
ruined chateau has its white lady flitting amid the
ruins, or washing a blood-stained robe in the
moat; and the Breton mind, thus balanced be-
tweeu religion and superstition, has little taste for
the stern realities of everyday life or modern pro-
gress.
XI.— SOCIAL CUSTOMS.
Hard and poverty-stricken as is the life of a
Breton peasant, it is not devoid of poetry or undi-
vcrsiiied with amusement. The cottages are
wretched hovels, black and smoky, with earthen
floors; and their furniture of the scantiest, and
the fit clos abominably dirty. Their food is gene-
rally buckwhe.it pancake, with a little cider, and
perhaps on high days butter or pig-cheese; their
clothing in winter, sltcep or goat skins; in summer,
coarse canvas ; but, notwithstanding, thcyare full
of merriment and song, and dances and gatherings
break the monotony of their otherwise joyless lives.
National Music axd Sonos. — There is a
great love of niu*ic among the Bretons, but it is
not much cultivated. The instruments are of .the
rudest character, and the airs and songs almost
barbarous. " Ann hini goz" is the favourite song,
aiH may be called the national air. To Its refrain
is danced all over Brittany a savage kind of cor-
robbery, which seems to give intense delight to the
performers and spectators.
Introduction.]
SOCIAL 0D8TOM8 — LIVING.
31
^
Makxiaqx.— Marriage has iU peculiar cere-
monies, and is generally brought about by a pro-
fessional go-between. The marriageable lasses
wear certain marks of their position and fortune ;
so many rows of braid upon their aprons, so that
their u figures" may be seen at a glance. The
bridal party, after the ceremony, promenade the
village with a fiddler at their head, and dancing is
kept up till the small hours.
Fuxbxal Ritxs. — Funeral ceremonies are also
very curious, particularly the exposure of the
coffin at the door of deceased's dwelling, and the
custom of disinterring the skull after the lapse of
some years and sticking it up on a kind of little
dog-house in the church porch labelled with the
name of the deceased, "cAef" of so-and-so in large
letters.
Salx of Hair.— The females sell their hair to
travelling merchants, and on fair days may be
seen a group of girls undergoing the operation
enplei* atr, and parting with magnificent heads of
hair, albeit very dirty,
(" Their fell of hair did tttr, as life were In it."— »«ft J
for a few francs, or a cotton dress, or a g^j foulard.
The country fairs afford excellent opportunities
for seeing the native Breton in his glory, and for
studying the varieties of costume and varied traits
of character.
Costumes. — The costumes of the eastern part
of Brittany are not very remarkable, the men
geuerally wearing a short blue coat, a broad-
brimmed hat, and heavy sabots ; the women, serge
dresses and lace caps of curious designs and alti-
tude. It is in Morbihan and Finistere that the
costumes are most bizarre. There the men wear
their hair \ox\g—hippodeucioi, rather than kare-
comoontes, as in the old days of Gallia Comata ; on
the head is a wide-brimmed sombrero; the jackets
and waistcoats are cut short and embroidered;
huge breeches are confined at the waist by a
leather belt ; embroidered gaiters with gay buttons
set off the sinewy legs, and the short pipe and
knobbed stick complete the costume. It is highly
picturesque, and the light sinewy frames of the
Kernevotes show to advantage in it.
Stoet-tkllino — The Bretons are intensely fond
of relating old stories and traditions, and seize
every opportunity of thus entertaining themselves.
Many of these stories have been collected (see the
paragraph, " Sources of Information").
Chaxlatavs.— At the fairs may be seen the
charlatan or travelling doctor, who pulls out teeth
in public in a cart attired as a noble Roman, sells
worm powders and love potions, and exhibits to
the company a fine collection of entosoa in spirits.
Thk Ghabivari. — Many Welsh customs obtain
in Brittany, particularly that of the charivari,
which consists in treating an obnoxious neighbour,
or one who has scandalised the village, with rough
music at night. But instead of the Welsh Ceff yl
Pren, or horse's head, a wolfs skin is donned by the
leader, and various disguises are adopted; equally
discordant noises are also produced from cows'
horns and marrow bones and cleavers, and the same
object is attained of thoroughly irritating the party
in whose honour the charivari is performed. A simi-
lar custom obtains in Dorsetshire, under the name
of the "Skimmington," celebrated in Hudibras.
XIX— LIVING.
The traveller in the interior of Brittany must
make up his mind to rough it, and endure
much in the way of dirt and bad living. Fleas
abound in all the public-houses, and, indeed,
in most private ones, and veal is the staple article
of food, washed down by cider of the "coupe gorge"
species; but prices are very moderate, and the
people are generally civil and obliging. It is
always better to sit down to the table d'hdte than
to order dinner a la carte.
Thevoitures or private carriages are of the most
primitive description, and the drivers by no means
trustworthy. It is necessary to make a bargain
before commencing a journey, and, indeed, it is
better to do so on entering an hotel. The time
when hotel charges were only 5 francs a day has
long since passed away ; the prices of food and
everything else have greatly increased. A corre-
spondent writes:— "With my knowledge of the
country and of the people, I never escape under
7 francs 60 cents per diem; strangers rather more.
This does not include wine. I am aware that at
some few of the inferior hotels at the small •«*-
PT
32
BRADSHAW'8 BRITTAJTY.
[Introduction.
Bid* place* the prices are more moderate, bat they
are house* which tin-generality of English would
not like to enter."
ZIIL— 8PQ&T— HUNTDTO, . 8HOOTZHO/ AND
FI8HZNCL
Sport in Brittany, though net so goed or bo
easily attainable as formerly, offers considerable
attraction to an Englishman. The wetf and the
boar are hunted by well-appointed packs of
hounds.— See "Wolf Hunting in Brittany"
(Chapman and Hall). There are plenty of
partridges and hares, and woodcocks in the
season, and the shooting licence, or "Permis de
Chasse," is only 25 francs, and is easily obtained ; it
will be requisite to make an application in
writing, on papier timbre* (stamped paper), to the
mayor of the district, enclosing 25 francs; if
it is approved by him it is forwarded to the
preset, who issues it if he sees no objection; it
remains in force for one year from the day on
which it is dated ; if lost, another must be pro-
cured immediately; any "gendarme, garde de
chasse (gamekeeper), garde champetre," or, in fact,
any authority, has the right to demand the pro-
duction of this permission, without which the
person will be arrested and his gun seised.
The shooting season does not begin every year
at the same date, but is regulated in each depart-
ment by the pre"f et, who fixes the day according
as the harvest is early or late, and he issues his
notice on the representation of the farmers gene-
rally between the 15th and the 26th of September
for the "chasse an vol," or shooting only. The
44 chasse a courre," or hunting, usually commences
a month later; all shooting and hunting closes
about the end of January, after which no one can
shoot even a sparrow without being subjected to a
fine; and, further, when snow is on the ground,
all shooting is strictly prohibited.
In the "Cdtes du Nord" and the u Ille-et-
Vlllaine," the shooting generally is preserved,
and the law of trespass is usually enforced by the
"gendarmerie"* (or mounted police), and the
" gardes de chasse 1 ' (gamekeepers) ; but in Lower
Brittany this is nearly the exception, and good
shooting may beobtained. The peasants as a class
are civil and obliging, but few of themln Lower
- speak 'Fftneh'.
In the " Bess de la* Roche,*' near Gminganrp, on
the road to Bevrbrme, woodcock, hares, and
rabbits are numeroue; near Gourln (MCrbihan),
the spurs of the Black Mountains are well wood**,
and there is good cock shooting in thewinter. The
country abeut Callae is billy, well weeded, and
has plenty of cover and an abundance of game.
Leaving Celiac, in the district of the Monsterns,
there is capital shooting, with plenty of wood-
cocks, which also abound between that place
and Ouingamp. There is good snipe shooting at
Bostrenen; there is also fair shooting in the
neighbourhood of Quimperle' and Auray; and at
Plongonver near Belle Isle en Terre, also at
Douault between Celiac and Carhaix;. game is
plentiful in both places during the winter. The
further the sportsman penetrates into Lower
Brittany the better the shooting becomes; in the
Cotes du Nord, and especially in the environs of
Dinan, it is indifferent.
Partridges, hares, quail, and snipe, are by no
means scarce ; woodcocks are also tolerably plen-
tiful later in the season, especially in the region of
the Black Forest.
There is also much cover for birds in North Brit-
tany ; the small fields are encircled by thick furze
hedges; the wheat is cut at the middle of the
stalk, and the stubble is not cleared off before the
middle of October. Much furze, too, is grown for
feeding horses; there are also large plantations of
it for making faggots for baking, forming an im-
penetrable mass nearly 10 feet high; added to
which the patches of tall broom (genet), heather,
and many copses make good hiding places for the
birds, from which it requires dogs to dislodge them.
Sportsmen should be very careful not to cross a
field where buckwheat is growing, or even where
it has been cut, until after it has been carried; the
farmers are most jealous on this point, and usually
have some person on the look-out; the law is also
very severe on this head, so much so that the tres-
passer will probably find himself involved in a
"profit* verbal, "which, with the fine, will perhaps
amount to one hundred francs. Buckwheat is
rarely if ever re mo ve d off the ground- before
October.
Although* there arcmany lands" which ~ererrot
Introduction.]
SPORT — HUXTIVG, SHOOTIKG, AHD FISniMG.
83
without molestation, it will still be a difficult
matter for a foreigner to shoot orer them ; it will
also require very great caution oh hU part, especially
if he does not know the language well. As the
farmers themselves generally shoot, they will
oppose him ; and, further, will put the law of tres-
pass in force. In fact, strangers will do well to be
accompanied by a French sportsman, by which
means they will aroid many difficulties, besides
getting some good shooting.
For Fishing Gulngamp may be called the
angler's head-quarters. He should first fish in
the river Trieux, which runs through the town.
Good sport may be had at about S miles distance
on the Pontrieuz road, near the potteries, where
trout, dace, and salmon are to be found. He may
next proceed by rail to Belle-Isle-en-Terre, and
hare good fishing in the river Ouier, where trout
abound. After haying fished these two streams,
the angler will have two courses open for him to
select from; the first will be to start from
Gulngamp by diligence to Bourbriac, and from
thence go on to the poor Tillage of Ke'rien, where
the fishing is good in the head waters of the
Blavet. A good basket of fish may be got here;
the country is rery wild and rugged, and it will
be advisable to be provided with a guide. He
bhould next proceed by diligence to 8. Nicholas
<lu Pelem, where there is a fair hotel; at about
2 miles westward of that town he will arrive at
the river Blavet, which is here crossed by two
bridges. Between these two bridges there are
always lots of good trout and dace, and the fish
are large. There is good fishing aloug the Blavet
from here down to Gouarec. The angler should
now make Rostrenen his head-quarters, where
there is a fair hotel; a diligence runs from
S. Nicholas du Palem to that place. He will
here meet the Brest Canal, in which there is good
fishing; the lakes near Glomel should also be
fished. There is good wild fowl shooting. From
Rostrenen a diligence runs to Carhaix, where there
is capital fishing to the north of the town in the
river Hierre ; also at Locrona, near Kersaoul.
The angler will have to decide either to return to
Guingamn, stopping on the way at Callac (fair
hotel), where there is also good fishing in the
liierre, at about 6 miles south of the village, near
C
a mill, close to an old chapel. His other course
will be to proceed by diligence on to Gourin,
where the fishing in the Isold and in the Laita
is good ; he will next go on by diligence to Le
Faoue*t (good country hotel), where there Is good
fishing In the valley below 8. Barbe. The river
here is about 40 yards broad, and the water is
clear and rapid. At the junction of the Ells' s
with the Staer-LaSr-Inam, near 8. Fiacre, trout
weighing occasionally Sib. are taken ; the sport is
capital; there are also salmon. The Isolee passes
through ScaBr, another good fishing place. The
angler may now if he pleases continue to fish the
river down to Quimperle*, this river being cele-
brated for the best flavoured salmon in France.
There is good salmon fishing in the river near
Pontrieux, from which place large supplies of this
fish are sent to Paris. There is a postal diligence
daily from Le Faougt to Quimperle'. The land-
lords of the Hotels at Gouarec and Callac will
accompany anglers to point out to them the best
spots in fishing.
The second course for the angler is to leave
Gulngamp by diligence for Callac (already
described), and to proceed afterwards to Carhaix
(fair hotel), from which place he will pass through
Landelau, where the fishing in the river Aulne is
good; then on to Chateauneuf du Faou (good
fishing in the Brest Canal); then through
Pleyben to Chateaulin, which abounds in salmon,
trout, pike, and perch. It is related that salmon
were formerly so abundant at Chateaulin that ser-
vants, when they were engaged, always stipulated
that they were not to have salmon for dinner
more than three times per week; good fishing
may also be had in the river Odet, from Stangala
down to Quimper. Trout abound at the former
place. Good fishing in the Aulne, from Huelgoe't
to Landelau; also in the stream below the " Cas-
cade de St. Herbot."
The only two remaining rivers worth the angler's
notice, or generally accessible, are the Guer, be-
tween Lannion and Belle-Isle-en-Terre, ana the
two streams which unite near Morlaix. There are
several small streams between Chateaulin and
Lorient, which have plenty of fish in them, but
they are mostly difficult of access to atran«~~
w
M
«aoept Part
it to said that
lake
the re to good
is good .fiettng.
pike fishing in the
The French tows relating to fishing are rery
simple. Firstly.— AH persons may fish with a rod
and line in all rivers, streams, and canals which
are under the care of the state. Secondly.— On
private property the permission of the proprietor
abould first be obtained; this law is, however, unite
a dead letter, for there are tracts where there is
capital fishing which are seldom visited ; indeed
in some districts it is quite possible to walk for
miles along the river banks without meeting an
individual; of coarse it will be requisite to be very
careful not to injure the crops. Thirdly.— No nets
or engines of any description for the purpose of
catching fish are tolerated, nor .are any baits con-
taining drugs to be used. Lastly.— The fishing
season is closed from April 15th lo June 15th each
year. The close season for salmon and trout is
from 20th October to 21st February.
Tliere is fair salmon fishing in several of the
lAigerriMn~4the <*uer, -the 43haie»uUn, .and the
tfeoeff; and aa for tront, every river and stream
and rivulet abounds with them, irom its source in
•the bills to Hs junction with the sea.
The best flies are the palmers, <red and black,
blue and, dun ; the alder, the francis, the march-
brown, and ooch-y-bon-dhu; for natural baits the
worm, caddis, oreeper, .grasshopper, and mole-
cricket; and the minnow, both natural and arti-
ficial, takes well in .the evening.
The best stations for fishing will be mentioned in
order as they occur. The following is a list of
H6tell.at the various fishing stations:— Jupon,De
Tl&cu; Celiac, Pe Bretagne; Carbaix, De la Tour
d'Auvergne; Huelgogt, De Bretftgne and De
France; Qourin, Cheval Blanc; FaouSt, Lion
\V Or; <a©n*-»c, Lalevwme itpoor); ftostrfipejn, de
,Lv tfoato; .St. Nicholas du BaJftm, Vojupears,
good; Ktotom #»*wbw»e.; fiwtatoft Lajgay.
LftcjdfGffiin* Boom .and Availing *Uj»g.tf .the
- may fee ted At At. Mtfo,#ton*J»*Bae«,
[introduction.
tost of Bsttmunr.
1. Omnoui. Vurw.— How few people know any-
thing about Brittany! Often when talking about it
the writer has been astoiriahed to hoar the qneetiou
p«t->* Where to Brittany?" And yet, what coun-
try ontsldoof our own kingdom has a higher claim
upon our interests and sympathies. If Normandy
has its claims became from its shores eailed the
motley erow who, under Duke William, made boot
upon our island home, and put the finishing stroke
to the ravages of Soman, Dane, and Saxon, surely
we might spare a little sympathy for the country
which was the adopted home of the conquered race
of aboriginal inhabitants— the country which had
in remote ages supplied the earliest colonists of
Britain, and gave tnem a hospitable shelter when
flying before the victorious hordes of Saxon and
Scandinavian invaders.
Such was old Armsrtco, the probable cradle of
the ancient British races, the refuge of the valiant
opposera of (Roman and Saxon invasion, who pre-
•ienred exile to slavery, and bore their unconquered
a*sae aejoas the "water-walled bulwark of the
main to be eeenre from foreign purposes."
It «weuld <be -beyond the -intention of our little
book to go back into the remote and almost pre-
historic period of Breton tradition; for there is
probably no other country -whose history is so
blended And obscured with myth and romance. 1 1
will be of more interest to our readers if we briefly
recapitulate the events of Breton History, which
bane an inttoaate connection .with our own country.
(Setting aside the traditions of the aboriginal
inhabitants and the equally trustworthy .annals of
£a Vie AEatale, we may remark that Armorica
occupies a- very (premuient place in early history.
These were many large and flourishing cities when
the Remans iny-aded the •country, and the Veneti
were no oontempalble£oemen.oi 4bejRoman -legions.
ffitom. Vanneasand EtarJorisjum, now foemariaker,
(they conldjBandxmt.a^eet.of x20 vessels, manned
\ thy aShHM«M\mm tandauon atjums; nor would the
Soman .aiimeiiava pcenaitod but for the superior
iiUMKfctes and #kiU in .fighting, of their disciplined
i\*gtem*r\&*-41m*>r <ie £ello GaiHco, Hb. ill., *ap.
fflhe s?s*nan*»did their heat te^eftaoe all evidence
.of i^ «wtoAiae,o^9awtoar.4rf<dd<sUnnoFJca; nor
Introduction.]
beyond a few castollo, and roads, and baths, did
they leave any lasting monuments of their occu-
pation. Julius Csasar, however, .left a great name
in the country, and bis deeds are still a household
word with the natives, who, with some slight
anachrouism, delight to group him with King
Arthur, and Jtaguescliii, and the good Duchess
Anne.
Similarly, without any disrespect to his memory,
we -may dismiss with etant -notice the voluminous
disquisitions of antiquaries upon the probable con-
nection of King Arthur with Brittany. That the
emigrants from Wales and Cornwall should bring
with them, along with the langnago and customs of
their native country, a certain amount of history
and a large stock of legends and traditions, was
only natural ; and it Is equally Intelligible that in
process of time a certain confusion should arise
about dates and localities, and that the Incidents
and heroes of the old country should be transferred
to the history of the adopted land ; and so It came
to pass that a general impression prevailed that
King Arthur lived and died in Bretagne-nay, that
he still lies entranced in the island valley of Agalon
or Avalon, off the coast of Porros Gulrec. That
thither—
" When he fell, an Eton quern,
All in secret and unseen,
O'er .the fainting hero threw
Her mantle et ambrosial bhia,
And badeher spirits bear him mr
lu Merlin's*! ate axled <uur,
To her green iele'f enamelled steep,
Far in the bosom of thadeep."— Wharton.
There weredoubtlessconsiderahle relations between
Great Britain and Armorioa from the earliest times,
:uul although the numbers are somewhat "Ori-
ental," thoi'o is probably some ioundation for the
assertion of the old Chronicles of JSeraius— that
Connn Meriadoc, King of North Wales, and
Diunotua, Duke of Cornwall, colonised AnnorJca—
the latter sending oft 11,400 noble virgins and
*;o,000 of inferior rank to the new colony.
Those who delight in these eld 'Chronicles and
saint 4e>re, may revel dn the -pages of Wace's
"Romans de Brut," and "La Vieflatnte-de Bre-
tague," and read how 8. Efflam (8. Flam?)
destroyed the dragons and«hiaueMn dire, and hew
H1BTOBY OF BB1TTAMT.
35
the wicked city of Ys was submerged Mke the
"Plains of fertile Lyonnese," whiohmay liavebeen
near Pensance, or off the coast of Douasnenec.
It would scarcely interest our readers to give a
doubtful catalogue of the old Breton kings, or to
enumerate a tithe of the saints in the calendar.
There is plenty of veracious history to be Imparted
without saddling our memories with uncertain
traditions, and we can well afford to skty a few
centuries when we are about to enter the scenes of
the glorious chronicles of the middle ages.
Brittany was, at one time, the battle-field of
Franoe : we might call It the "cock-pit of Europe,"
and a sad picture of battle-fields and beleagured
oittas, of wars and fighting, of trampled corn-fields
and blazing homesteads, does the chronicle bring
before our eyes. Scarce a field but bas-been watered
with the blood of contending armies. Scarce a nil
top or shattered tower but has been held at a coign
of vantage against a besieging host.
We need not follow the ignUfahnu of legendary
lore, and lose ourselves in the midst of the dark
ages, among the romances of Arthur and Merlin
and Lancelot du Lac, when we are travelling over
the scenes illustrious in history, tho country of
Francisn.and Duchess Anne,the feudal possessions
of the De Bohans and Pcuthie vres; the selgneurlcs
of the Beaumanolrs, the Raouls, the Tintentacs. the
Cllesons, and Duchatels. Here were done the
'♦deeds of derring do,»1n the long struggle between
the DoBlols and DeMontf orts, a contest maintained
equally by their heroic oountesses. Here, too, our
countrymen Pembroke and Manny, Lancaster and
Knollys, and Chandoe, bore themselves right vali-
antly. Here Richard the lion-hearted beat down
the hosts of his rebellious vassal*. Here the Black
Prince bore his ostrich plumes aloft, and our Henry
of Richmond pined in long captivity at Elver.
From Mortal* sailed away Mary Stuart, when she
left la belle France for her hapless home In the far
north ; at Roseoff, on the same coast, landed Charles
Edward, a houseless fugitive, the last of hi. wc
Xhla,4oo, was the arena of nhewaraof tbel^eane
and of la Vendee; whoa — — 1- mnimssU u phase f
religious thought and wry «hwge of dywjy
claimed Us hecatombs of victims.; here Coni' — *
«ni«et,4n40yv»a»d repablseaas, the hire/
r
36
nitADSHAW'S BRITTANY.
[Introduction.
Hoche and the Republic, the patriot bands of
•Cadoudal and Sombreuil, the collegians of Vannes
andthe rustic heroes of the Chouannerie fought and
died and mingled with the dust.
We would introduce a few of the connecting
Jinks between English and Breton history, re-
•erring for their appropriate localities some of the
more striking incidents of the past.
The history of Brittany is the history of a
-country resitting for eleven centuries the encroach-
ments of its more powerful neighbours ; and it is
not surprising that a contest maintained so long and
so obstinately should hare stamped upon the cha-
racter of its people, the courage and endurance and
tenacity of purpose for which they are remarkable.
TuADiTioirs. — Brittany, like all the countries
inhabited by the Celtic tribes, has a pre-hlstoric
period which affords a wide scope for the fanciful
inventions of the early romancists. In default of
historical records, legendary lore has supplied the
hiatus with material drawn freely from Heathen
mythology, from Roman poets, and even from
Holy Writ. By some writers Jupiter and Hercules,
by others ./Eneas and Brutus are accredited as the
ancestors of the Breton kings, of whom Geoffrey ot
Monmouth supplies an unbroken genealogy from
a.m. 2872, down to the fourth century, while the
Scripture storiesof the overthrow of the cities of the
plain, and the expulsion of the Canaanites are boldly
engrafted into the saint lore of Brittany ; and at a
later period we find that the history of King
Arthur was bodily transferred, round table and all,
to its hospitable shores.
2. Chronological Account
Ths Romas Period.— It is probable that in the
time of Julius Csssar, the country was well
populated, and although the account of flourishing
cities existing at that period is somewhat mythi-
cal, there is no doubt that several powerful
Armorican tribes entered the Gallic confederacy
against him, and even when reduced to submission
were far from being subdued. Although we can*
not assert that Brittany was co-extensive with
Armorica, there appears good reason for supposing
that the tribes of Rhedoues, Venetl, Nannetes,
n "Hosolites, and Osismii dwelt within the con-
' Brittany, and may be fairly identified
respectively with the five modern departments of
Ille-et-Vilaine, Morbihan, Loire Infcrieure, Cotes
du Nord, and Finlsterre with theirrespective chefs
Ueux, Rennes, Vannes, Nantes, Corseul, and
Quimper. At any rate French antiquarians
choose to make it out in this manner, and the
coincidences do no violence to history, and not
much to philological probabilities.
Csssar de Bdlo OalHco lib. ill. gives a detailed
account of the conquest of this part of Gaul, from
which it appears that the inhabitants of this part
of Gaul submitted to him on the appearance of P .
Crassus with a single legion, and gave hostages ; but
revolted a few years later, when the Roman com-
missaries Silius and Velarius went into Brittany to
collect tribute and provisions. The Armoricans,
particularly the Veneti, seized the Roman commis-
saries by way of reprisal for the detention of their
hostages; and Casar was obliged to enter on a
campaign to reduce them to subjection.
The Veneti had a fleet of no less than 220 large
ships of war in the Sea of Morbihan ; and Csssar
had a fleet built in the dockyards of the Loire, to
contend with them. The great sea fight which
took place between Quiberon and Rhuys, at the
entrance of the Morbihan, is described by Caesar,
lib. ill.; Strabo, lib. iv.; and Dion Cassins, lib.
xxxix. The ships of the Veneti were so large
and powerful, that the Roman galleys could not
master them, till they hit on the plan of attacking
them singly with several of their ships.
They cut down the yards of the barbarian ships
with scythes fastened to their own antennae, and
then grappled with them, and boarded them, and
soon overcame them in a hand to hand fight. After
this victory Csssar severely punished the Veneti,
razed Dariorigvm, now Locmarlaker, to the
ground; burnt the groves of the Druids, and
roasted the priests on their own sacred fires, which
they had prepared for their expected captives.
Armorica was completely conquered and became a
part of the province of Gaul, being enrolled as the
Lugdwnentis tertia.
The Breton Rings.
The Armoricans frequently attempted to shake
off the Roman yoke, but were unable to do so as
long aa the empire remained intact. The Druidicnl
religion still survived, though fiercely persecuted.
Introduction.]
Brittany hod hitherto been known by the name of
Armorica, signifying the sea-girt country (ar bor-
dering on, mor % the sea), from which latter came
also the derivation of Morini, a people of Caesar's
time, occupying the coast opposite Kent. It
acquired the name of Brittany, Bretagne, or la
petite Bretagne, from the immigration of the in-
sular Britons, though they were probably of the
same original Celtic stock. Britain, or Prydain, is
said to be derived from Breith, or Brith, signifying
the same as Pict, a painted man. The word occurs
in many of the Latin writers, but Martial probably
alludes to the Bretons when he speaks of their
bragoni bras, or knickerbockers. u Vetera braccse
Britonis pauperis."
The first historical immigration of insular
Britons into Armorica took place about a.d. 284,
when large numbers fled under the pressure of
hostile invaders, and found an asylum in Brittany ;
the Romans assigning them lands to dwell in.*
A.D.
383. About a century later a large number of
Britons followed the arms of Maximus, in
his expedition against the Emperor Gratian,
and passing over into Brittany, fraternised
with the people of the country. These in-
sular Britons were under the leadership of
Conan, a prince of Alben, or North Wales,
afterwards called Conan Me*riadec, or the
Great King. Maximus and his allies de-
feated Gratian in two great battles; first at
Aleth, now Quidallet, near S. Malo, and
afterwards near Paris. Here the allies
separated. Maximus went in pursuit of
Gratian, whom he came up with at Lyons,
and again defeated, and slew, but was him-
self soon after conquered and slain by
Theodotius. Conan returned to Brittany,
and being made king by the people, threw
off the Roman yoke, and maintained his
position, notwithstanding the efforts of the
Romans, under Exuperantius and other
leaders, to eject him.
* The feet of the Emperor Conetaatins Chloral nMigning
land to the fugitive Britons, in the provinces of the Veneti
and Curloaolites, prove* that Brittany was a terra Mica of
Rome.
BISTORT OF BRITTAXT.
37 N
418. He invited over many of his countryman , and
the Bretons received them with open arms
as kinsmen, and Conan reigned over the
country, with Nantes as his capital for forty
years. He was succeeded on the throne by
several of his descendants and kinsmen,
vix., Salomon, Grallon, Audren (in whose
reign another great Immigration of Britons
took place, a.d. 446), Erech, Euseblus (an
usurper), and Budic. Budic's son, Hoe"l,
was a long time resident in England as the
guest of King Arthur, his own country
being overrun by barbarians, Francs and
Frisians; but returning, he drove out the
invaders and recovered his throne. HoeTs
fame is a favourite Breton theme, and it is
in connexion with him that the history of
King Arthur is engrafted on Breton annals.
Hogl left five sons, and attempting to divide
the kingdom equally among them, be-
queathed an inheritance of petty jealousies
which ended in murder and usurpation.
560. Ultimately, Macliau, the survivor, came to
the throne, and transmitted It to his de-
scendants, Alain I., Waroch II., Hogl III.,
Salomon II., Judael (who quarrelled with
Dagobert, King of France), Grallon II., and
811. others, down to the ninth century, when
Brittany was subjugated by Charlemagne,
who appointed governors over it.
818. Morvan, one of the old stock, revolted against
Louis leDebonnaire,but was overpowered.
824. Dynasty of Nomenoe. He was one of
the governors of Brittany appointed by
Louis I., King of France, and though of
humble origin, possessed great tact and
judgment. He secretly encouraged the
insurrections of the Bretons, and while
France was distracted by the civil wars of
Lothaire and Pepin, and the incursions of
the Normans, who thrice penetrated to the
gates of Paris, and were only bought off by
increased bribes, he declared Brittany inde-
pendent, and after defeating Charles le
Chauve, took the title of king.
861 He left his throne to Erispoe, his son. whrt
was slain by his cousin, Sale"
3*
BKADftBAW'S BKTPTAMT.
[Introduction,
Several kings of the same dynasty sue*
ceeded down to the commencement of the
l^tb/century, when the Normaiw, besoming
more* audacious, obtained from Charles the
Bbnple'the cession of Brittany as the price
of their rennqoifbing the siege of Paris.
912: Rollb, their chief; was baptised, and married
the daughter of diaries. Brittany then
became the scene of a desperate contest
with the Normans, which lasted 300 years.
The divisions of Nantes, Rennes, Vannes,
and CornouattTe had each their own Count,
and each assumed, at different periods, the
title of Duke of Brittany, as he obtained
pre-eminence, by successfully resisting the
Normans.
Tjbx Dukes of Brittany.— Assassination
was rife among these counts and dukes ; no
leas than nine reigning princes were mur-
deted. within two centuries. Geoffrey, the
first duke, met his death in a singular
manner : Returning from a pilgrimage to
Borne, while passing through a Tillage, a
falcon, which he held on his wrist, as a
badge of nobility, swooped at an old
woman's hen by the road-side. The old
woman, enraged, threw a stone at the
duke's head, which caused his death.
1040. Robert le Dlable, Duke of Normandy, made
Alain, the next Duke of Brittany, guar-
dian of the realm, and of the young heir to
it, William, afterwards the Conqueror,
while he went to the Holy Land. The
Bretons and Normans were now on good
terms. Alain- acquitted himself faithfully
Of' his trust, and on the death of Robert,
abroad, took* the young prinoe to Nor-
mandy, and* placed- him on' his father's
throne by force* of awns*
1066. When William embarked from the coast of
France, for the conquest of England, he
took with him several Breton nobles, ""in
particular the Count of Penthievre, of the
collateral branch of the reigning, family,
and rewarded him with rich possessions in
* conquered- country. Penttlievre ob*
•d- RAetanond; In Yorkshire?' and 442
manors. The Breton nobles were, however,
soon ousted and sent buck to their country,
which refused'homage to WilH*m»
Lanfranc wrote to William on this occa-
sion— "Lant Deo t en regnwn town purga-
tomde Me eptrcUM Britomtm /"— Daku.
William had enough to do running back-
wards and forwards to keep in order his
own country of Normandy, his newly
•acquired possessions of England, and his
recalcitrant Bretons. Alain Fergant, Duke
of Brittany, inflicted a severe reverse upon
the Conqueror of England, near Dol, cap-
turing his baggage, worth 80,000 crowns.
Out of respect for his bravery, William
gave him his danghter, Constance, into the
bargain. On the death of William the
Conqueror, Robert, his eldest son, inherited
Normandy, and laid claim to England,
which had been willed by the Conqueror
to William, his second son, but waived
his claim on condition that he should
be- the next king if he survived William
Ruffes and Henry; But when Rufus
was shot in the New Forest, Henry was
on the spot; and Robert, having sold his
duchy to William Rttfua, for lOjOOO crowns,
had' gone to the Crusades. Robert, on
his return, asserted his right to the
throne of England, which Henry had seized ;
but accepted the terms of restoration to the
Dukedom of Normandy and a pension.
Subsequently, on a quarrel breaking out,
Alain, Duke of Brittany, joined Henry,
King of England, and took partwitii him at
the battle of Tinchebray, which terminated
tne civil war, by the defeat and capture of
Robert; who was ahufr up* in-Cardffff
Con nection wifn KiigHuifc
lltW. The connection of English and Breton-history
from this period renders itnecessary to de-
vote some little space to theleadiinyevents.
Conan, on his death-bed, declared his son
Hbel, by Matilda^ daughter of Henry I., to
be- illegitimate* but the populations ot
NanteaandQiiimperi nevertheless, acknow-
ledged him aa their Duke, while Renneaand
other chief towns of Brittanydeclaredfor
Introduction*]
HIMOUr OV BsUTOAJtY.
Eudea o» Eustace, hit brothe*4n<-law. In
the disturbances which ensued Henry II.
we* apuealedto-by both factions; end by
cajoling Conai* IV., whom, the people of
Nantes had set up in place of Htfei, he
obtained* suoh an influence over him that
he. persuaded him. to betroth bis daughter
Constance* to his son, Geoffrey of Anjou ;
and working upon the anti-Celttaefcaracter
of the people of Nantes, he eventually ob-
tained for him. the Dukedom of Brittany.
Constancewas rightful heiresoto the throne,
as well as Countess of Richmond, and on
the death of her husband Geoffrey; who was
killed in, a tournament in Paris? held the
duchy in her own right, and as guardian of
her posthumous sonArthur (U8ft). Philip,
King of France, was anxious«to assume the
guardianship of Arthur,.but Henry II. took
him under his protection, with the greater
show of right.as.hia grandson, and because
his mother shortly after married Raoul,
Ranulph, or Randolph, an<BnaJisk subject,
who- was created Earl of Chester, and who
took the title of Duke of Brittany in right
of his wife, the duchess dowager-
RttfiAKB CTcftm dit Liow.— On the death of
Henry IF., Richard Coeur de Lion, on suc-
ceeding to the throne of England; assumed
alsothe guardianship of Arthur, and nomi-
nated hlta his heir in the erCTif of his
death: This took place on-, the- occasion of
his voyage to- the Holy Land to join the
Crusades, when passing thnragh the King-
donvof Sicily, and being deetrous-of obtain-
ing- * good roundi sum' to -pay m>eapenses,
he pcwraadatfTanered, King of Messina, to
betroth Met infant: daughter to his little
nephew Asthun, awl to* pay him: down on
the«att>M,OtM> ouaceaofgeld in«ntsoipation
of the princess's dowry; D i eh ard left
Arthur uttder the cerfe of ths King of
Prance while he wasatfthftOmsades; but
dtudrtnvhivaoeence his brother John not
only nam u e \l therthiejM oJr.BneJfcfid, but
pefsjaadew tfee> khir oflFratteeito>a«t trea-
dm ott sts? towards A sS Jiu rand tttetoother
Coswtai
Rkhaitfs Mtun. f wn. the* Holy Land was
loag.def erred by his imprisonment in Ger-
many on bis way home, an imprisonment
prolonged by the combined machinations of
John and Philip, to keep him in durance.
On his- return, however^ he forgovo his
brother John, but determined* to chastise
the King of Franco, and spent the rest
of his life* id- an unprofitable war with
Philip Augustus, dying from the effects
of a wound in tlte 42nd year of his
age.
LMfc Pbbhjb- Ahtoub* — Richard before his
death had boon- reconciled to Arthur, who
wa» in hie oa»p- at the- time,, and as his
heir,, ho ougfefc to have- succeeded- to the
thrones of England and Brittany. John,
howowsr, seised the- traaanry-of England,
and'Nemtandy declared for him* Constance,
having married for the third time, Guy de
Theuarsv regained the protection of Philip,
and the assist anee of France, Toucaine, and
Anjou- Brittany also declared for Arthur,
whoso very name recalled the prophecies of
IfflerUn,. and- seemed to be< an earnest of
glory «w1 prosperity* Thereupon, John
oarried>tiwvmr into Franca to enforce his
unrighteous oMnv to- the inheritance of
Arthur.- Thi»pariod«ofthe history is illus-
trated: by Shakespeare in King' J«hn, in
which Arthur's right to the two thrones is
distinctly stated : —
M To men of Angers open vide yoar gates, •
An* letywmr Art*wr. Dnke of ntetagne, in ;
Avthturof Bfstssjon ■aaJMul's hula aneVyours.
1999. Young Arthur, relying- on the- assfsfance of
Philip, took the field against John; but was
unfortunately tak^n>pT^nw~w4til ©stack-
ing- the OastM'or Hftiutoesnn near Poitiers,
and' shotf up by Joint in the* Castle of
Fateis*. John- finding that* the"* young
duke persisted In' nirclahhs; determined to
prerent his reigning by the most infamous
meaner aneV pr#peued to* his Vassals', Wfl»
llam^doBiwy a«a»uber<«aeBat^Mto put
out bis oyee*tfW o*di$ ty m itatt b m priva-
rehtt>U w%eniboth thfjwiioliavrp 1 ^^
tto*inlmsmaa> pnfiMr^JehMi Up
T
f 40
BKAD8HAWS BRITTANY.
moved to the Castle of Rouen, ami confined
in a tower overlooking the river. From
thii tower John removed him at night in a
boat rowed by Peter de Maniac, his equerry,
and, as is generally believed, stabbed him
with his own hand, and threw the body
into the Seine.
The Bretons appealed to the King of France
to summon John before him to account for
this murder, which he did; and on John
refusing to appear, he was condemned
by a court of his peers of the crime of
felony and parricide, and adjudged to for-
feit all his seigneuries and fiefs In France.
Eleanor, Arthur's sister was still alive a
recluse in the monastery of Bristol, under
the surveillance of John. She was the
•* Maid of Brittany," and the rightful heiress
to the throne of England. The ducal crown
however was seized by Guyde Thouars,
the third husband of Arthur's mother. But
Philip declined to support his claim, and set
up Peter de Dreux, as duke, a cadet of the
house of Capet, who married Alice, daughter
of Guy de Thouars. Constance and Eleanor
died in the Convent of Bristol without
troubling the peace of Brittany, and the
reigning family of France thus obtained a
claim over the duchy, which they ceased
not to prosecute till its complete annexation .
1215. Peter de Dreux, surnamed Mauclerc, by the
clergy, with whom he quarrelled (it was
bad policy in those days to quarrel with
the clergy, as they wrote the history), re-
nounced the priestly profession, and held
the dukedom for forty years, and it was
continued in his family to the fourteenth
century, when the death of John III., son
of Arthur II., without issue, led to a dis-
pute about the succession, known as the
contests of the De Montforts and De
Blois.
1841. Tire Wab of the Succession— This, the
most brilliant period of Breton history,
owes much of its interest to the lustre
♦*"wn over it by the chronicles of Frois-
~ho was the vattt aeer of the deeds
[Introduction.
of chivalry enacted in the Wars of the Suc-
cession. Bnt the period has intrinsic
claims upon our attention, from the inagn i-
tude of the issues at stake, and the forces
engaged on either side ; while, of the illus-
trious names which stand out in these
annals, those of our countrymen, Cbandos
Pembroke, Manny, and Knollys, do not
yield in glory to those of Beaumanoir,
Clisson, or Duguesclin. Our readers will
pardon our entering at some length upon
the history of the war, which is not only an
important part of Breton annals, but one
of the most interesting and glorious episod es
of the history of our own country.
De Blois.— The death of John III., which
took place at Caen, April 80, 1841, left the
succession doubtful, as he had no issue, nor
had his wife any expectation of a child at
his death. Foreseeing the doubts which
would arise, he endeavoured to settle them
before his death, by bestowing his niece,
daughter of Guy, Count of Penthievre, upon
Charles de Blois, nephew of the King of
France, with the intent that the King of
France should assist him in maintaining
his claim, should it be disputed. The othrr
claimant was the Earl of Montfort, half-
brother to the late Duke; his father,
Arthur II., having married a second time,
Yolande, daughter of Robert de Dreux.
D« Montfort. -The Earl of Montfort, as
soon as he heard of the death of the duke,
hastened to Nantes and won over the prin-
cipal men of the place by means of the late-
duke's treasury, which was handed over to
him by the citisens of Limoges, who had
it in keeping. Being well established at
Nantes, he enlisted an army and proceeded
to Brest, which he took after a vigorous
resistance. He next took Rennes, the
governor, Henry de Spinefort, having
fallen into his hands; and, shortly after,
Heimebont, the "best fortified castle and
strongest town in all Brittany," fell into
his hands through the influence of De
Spinefort over his brother, who was
the governor. In a short time he pos-
Introduction.]
HISTORY OV BRTTTAJIT.
41
sessed himself alio of Auray and Carhaix,
and all the other strong places of Brittany,
and, going over to England, enlisted the
king, Edward III., on his side. Froissart
says, that the king was induced to lend his
aid to the Earl by the consideration "that
his war against France would be strength-
ened by this means, that he could not hare
a better entry into that kingdom than
through Brittany." Hereupon Charles de
Blois appealed to the King of France to
maintain his right. King Philip, by the
advice of his peers, summoned the Earl of
Montfort to Paris to answer for his con-
duct, "who came willingly, and professed
to submit himself to the king's commands
and good pleasure." But after an audience
at which the king commanded him not to
leave Paris for fifteen days, " on his return
to his lodgginge he entered into his cham-
ber, and ther satte and ymagined many
doutes" (Bemer's Froissart), the issue of
which was that he mounted his horse and
set out at once for Brittany, u or the king or
any other wystwher he was become" The
king, when he found that De Montfort had
foiled him in the "abiit, etasit, crvpit" style,
adjudged the dukedom to Charles de Blois;
who having obtained the alliance of the
Dukes of Normandy, Burgundy, and Bour-
bon, the Counts d'Alencon, and d'Eu, the
u Lord Lewis of Spain," and others, assem-
bled his army, and marched into Brittany
to recover his dukedom. He had 5,000 men
at arms and 3,000 Genoese mercenaries.
They first took Ch&teauceux, a strong castle
on the borders of Brittany, and then pro-
ceeded to lay siege to Nantes. After some
days' skirmishing the men of Nantes as
usua determined to treat with the assail-
ants, and let in a number of the enemy, who
went straight up to the castle and seized
the Earl of Montfort, and carried him off
to the camp of De Blois. The Earl was
conducted as a prisoner to Paris, where the
King shut him up in the Tower of the
Louvre, and kept him a close prisoner.
Thk Commas »« Moxwort.— The war was,
however, far from ended by the capture of
the Earl of Montfort, for his Countess
Jeanne, who was at Rennes with her child
John, "possessed the courage of a man and
the heart of a lion." By her harangues an J
personal influence she encouraged her
friends and soldiers to maintain her cause*
visited the towns and fortresses, strength-
ened them with men and provisions, and
infused such spirit into her followers that
De Blois was as far off as ever from obtain-
ing the duchy.
The Countess of Montfort retired to Henne*
bont, and De Blois wintered in Nantes ; but
early in the spring of the next year he
besieged Rennes, and took it, the people
being unable to stand the rigours of
a siege, and invested Hennebont, hoping to
take the Countess and her son prisoners.
8he had applied to Edward for assistance,
but the succours sent under the command
of Sir Walter Manny wore delayed by con-
trary winds.
Ihe siege was prosecuted with vigour; the
assailants "assaulting fiercely, and those of
the town in earnest to make a handsome
defence."
The Countess herself directed the defence, and
ordered her ladies to cnt short their kyrtels
and carry stones to the ramparts. On one
of the days of assault she ascended the
ramparts, and perceiving that most of the
enemy had left their tents and were en-
gaged in the attack, she mounted her horse,
collected 800 horsemen, and sallied out by
a gate which was not attacked, galloped to
the tents of her enemies, cut them down,
and set them on fire without loss. As
soon as the French saw their camp on fire
they cried, "Treachery;" and, desisting
from the assault, pursued the Countess and
her party; but, though closely pursued,
she gained the Castle of Brest, and after
assembling a well-armed and well-mounted
company, appeared five days after before
Hennebont at sunrise, and entered the
town before the French could recover from
their astonishment to intercept her.
r„
BKABSHAW'S BBtTTAKYi
[Introduction.
This expieit gained for the countess* themame
of Jeanne la: Flannne, or Jannedik Film, as
VfUemuuqnrf' has it in hi* ceiteetfton of
Bteton Bsdlada; the " Sana* BteiK" '
The stag*. of Hennebont still. continued, and
thmnghtne aseftultft-of the engines without,
and- the machinations of the Bishop of Leon
wHhfa> thetownhad nearly disposed the gar-
rison; to surrender, when the Cbuntess saw
from/the windows of the castle the long ex-
peeted: succours from England, a numerous
floet of great and small veseela, sauingnp the
Blavet towards Hennebont. Toe Countess
inamediateiy communicated the joyful news
to the defenders, and welcomed Sir Walter
Manny and his companions to the castle.
After an entertainment, Sir Walter sallied
out and destroyed the great, engine, and
slew many of the asaailanta, and>on re*enter-
ingv- the' Countess joyfully kissed and em-
braced* tiwm, as Froissart says, like a
valiant dame :— ' Qui a done Tit la-comtesse
descendre du Chat el a grand cbere,«t'baiser
Messire' Gautier de Manny et sea com-
pagnonsi les nns- apres les autres deux on
toots fois,, bien put dire que c'etoit une
vaillante dame."
Sir. Waiter Manny did not remainidle at Hen-
nebont ; but having raised the siege, carried
on a-deaultory warfare in different parts of
Brittany*, in which he gave 'Louis of. Spain
a. severe^ beating at Quimperle\ and per-
formed many acts of valour-; butDeBlois
still held.Nantes and the seaports about it,
Venae*, Rennes, Carhaix, and Jugon; and
the,Countoss f finding her party on the wane,
was advised to conclude a truce with De
Blois„and.pasa over to England.
Intervention of England*.*— While, there
she obtained freshassistance from the King,
and in, the spring sailed for Brittany, with
auSeet of forty-five vessels, commanded by
Count Robert of. Attoia^and bearing a nu-
merous army, under the-Eari of. Salisbury,
an. ancestor of the Dukes of- Manohester.
Thep^nceuntered the Geaeeee fleet? under
ouisvof. Spaia^off Gaernseft,and>.et8evere
^'battle* en»eaYwMah>w«»*ostfy put a
stop to by a violent tempest: At thicraaval
fight the Countess of Montfort, who, as
Froissart says* "Men vaioUunlivmme, car
etteavattteeurtfeUonf' eomnmndedin-person,
armed- cap-h*pte and sword in- hand. The
fleets were separated, and Robert of Artois
landed his4roop*nearVannes, to which they
at' once laid siege, and took it by escalade.
It was; however, shortly after retaken by
Be- Beaumanoir, Marshal of Brittany, for
De Bloia. The Count of Artois was so
severely wounded- that he was- obliged to
return to England, where- he died * and the
King of England resolved to carry the war
into Brittany in' person. Many valiant
deeds were performed before Vannes, and
the war now assumed the character of a
war between England and France. Large
armies took the field on both sides near
Nantes, but before 1 anything decisive was
done, a truce- was concluded at Malestroit,
by the intervention of Pope Clement»VI., on
the basis that neither the English nor the
French king was to take any par* in the
contest. The king of France beheaded the
Count de€llsson, and fourteen other Breton
nobles, upon suspicion of treason ; 'but the
Countess de* Clisaon amply avenged her
husband's death' by suddenly attacking
several of the oastleedef ended by the parti-
sans>of De Blolt, and staying- the garrisons.
Tfie king of England took occasion from the
execution of the Breton knights to consider
the truce broken, and in 1345 despatched a
large army under the Earl of Derby, to
make war upon Goaeoay. From thence
they advanced into Ferigord and- Guienne,
and being:rainf orced by a still larger army
from England- which disembarked- at la
Hague, the combined forces overran all
Ncvmandyand Pieardy, defeated the French
w4th immense slaughter at- Creey and
Potters* and toe* Calais. These events,
hewever, belong- rattier to 1 the History
ofEngland*
TnewHrsin'BHttaiTrsttil 'raged*; oirrtie expi-
ration' or the -truce; Charter de Blbislaid
siege) to Becsn^Derriera, wiftcb^ had been
Introduction.]
HISTORY OF BRIXTJLVY.
43
taken by the English ; bat a largo force sent
out from Heunebont, under Sic Thomas
D&gworth and ether English chiefs, gave
battle to Charles de Blois and took him
prisoner. The Countess de Blois, however,
like the Countess de Montfort, resolved to
continue the war; but her husband shortly
after obtained his liberty by paying a
ransom of 100,000 crowns of gold. John
de Montford, the son of Charles, attained
his majority in 1368, and laid siege to
Auray, where he was joined by Sir John
Chandos, Sir Robert Knollys, and many
other English knights, while De Blois was
largely reinforced by the barons of France
and Normandy.
The castles of Brittany were held by the
partisans of either side, and the country
was overrun and devastated by their armed
retainers.
1 361. [About this time took place the Battle of the
Thirties, at the Midway Oak, between Jos-
selin and Plogrmel, the castles of which
were held respectively by BeAumanoir for
De Blois, and Pembroke for De Montfort.
The circumstances of the fight will be
narrated ad locum under Josaelin.]
Oliver de Cllseon and Bertram! Dsnruesclin
now made their appearance on the- scene
of warfare. Clisson waa a partisau-of the
Montfort faction, while Duguesclin cham-
pioned it for De Blois against the English.
His biography will be related under Dinan.
He defended Bennes vigorously, and was
the life of the resistance offered for ten
years to their efforts to establish De Mont-
fort on the ducal throne: In 1868 the war
was almost brought to a close by a treaty
concluded on the Plain of Evron, just as the
armies of De Blois and De Montfort were
about to engage; by this treaty the Duchy
was to be divided, Reimes golngto De Blois
and" Montfort taking Nantes; but Jeanne
Dc Blois refused to ratify it, as agreed on,
with her sanction.
EUnui op A*'HAI>.— Si Michael'* Day, 1364,
found the ririd aroiiesi drawn up in- great
force on the low ground before Anray.
Duguesclin marshalled the troops- of Dc
Blois, and Sir John Cbaodoedrew up the
troops of De Montfort in array. De Beau-
manoiz endeavonxed, ineffectually, to bring
about an agreement; but both sides had
determined to bring the contest to an
issue by force of arms, and a fierce battle
took place which will be more particularly
described under Auray.
Both the BngUah and Bretons bad. agreed
that no ransom should be taken for
De Blois or De Montfort ; and, aeeordingly
- De Montfort wisely dressed up one of his
esquires in his aunooat, bearing the device
of the ermines, to petBooaU him. The
esquire was killed; but De Montfort and
his men fought with such, vigour, that vic-
tory inclined to their aide. DngneaeUnwas
taken prisoner after performing prodigies
of valour; and De Blois was also taken alive,
but cut down by one of the English soldiers.
De* Cliason. lost an eye; and many a gal-
lant knight on either side* bit the dust, par-
ticularly among; the barouaof Brittany.
The death of De Blois, and the total defeat of
his army, ended the dispute as to the
succession.
Some of the castles and fortified towns held
out for De Blois, but were soon rednced;
the sons of De Blois were prisoners in Eng-
land! Terms w«re arra n ged, wttM the ap-
probation of the Klnfrs* of England and
France, by which De Mbntfbrt was to take
the Duchy, with reversion to the children
of De Blois in case he had no heirs, and that
he was to settle the estates of 'Penthievrc
upon the Countess- for her life.
Duguesclin's career was by no means finished,
for shortly after being ransomed he took
partrin the war in.- Spain* and never ceased
to haras* the BngUsatlH hi* death. By
the treaty of Gnerrande, John de Montfort
waa recognised aa Duheof Brittany, and
was allowed by the- EngUah to mount
the throne on. condition ot affordinic them
fecJUiee>for attaoking,Fr*aice»
n
BKADBHAW'g BRITT1NT.
[Introduction.
The French party softened their sense of
defeat by obtaining from the Pope the
canonisation of Charles de Blois, whose
austerities, piety, and miracles, were an*
thenticated by many witnesses.
John of Montfort rewarded Sir John Chandos
with many rich possessions in Brittany,
particularly Blain and the Tour de Con-
netable, which so irritated De Clisson, who
expected to hare them, that he joined his
old foe, Dugnesclin, and the two entered
Brittany at the head of an army. The
Bretons joined them against the English,
who were now thoroughly hated through-
out Brittany, and de Montfort took refuge
in England. Renewing his alliance with the
King of England, he and the English again
overran Brittany, bat by the activity of Du-
gnesclin and the barons, they were at last
forced to quit all their possessions but Brest,
which was not given up till 1394. The
English attacked S. Halo in 1875, with 400
cannons, but were beaten off. John was
recalled by his subjects in 1880, and received
with open arms at S. Malo. Duguesclin
died in 1880, while besieging Chateau Ran-
don in Auvergne; his death secured the
stability of de Montfort 1 s throne ("ademptut
Hector"), but the English were driven out
of Brittany, and never recovered their
vast possessions.
Duke John instituted the order of the Er-
mines as a salve for all the losses and
sufferings of the Bretons; and though the
latter part of his reign was sullied by the
imputation of an attempt to assassinate
Clisson, whom he deprived of all his
possessions, the remainder of his life was
peaceable, and the War of the Succession
was happily terminated.
Brittany during the Fifteenth Century.
Duke John of Montfort died in 1899, leaving
an only son, 11 years of age; his widow
married Henry IV. of England. De Clisson
—♦ill maintained his animosity to the English,
with a fleet of his own pillaged Guern-
nd Jersey, and burnt the arsenal
of Plymouth, while Tanneguy Duchatel,
another Breton privateer, surprised and
destroyed Dartmouth. John V. attained
his majority at the age of 15, and Clisson
met with retributive injustice, being ac-
cused of sorcery, and besieged in his Castle
of Josselin ; he saved his life for the time
by a present of 100,000 crowns to the young
Duke, but died shortly after. The Pen-
thievre faction, asrepresentingthe De Blois,
still hoped to come to the throne, and in-
cited by Margaret de Clisson, and en-
couraged by the Dauphin of France, seized
the young Duke at a hunting party, got up
for the purpose, and put him in prison. He
was kept in durance for a long time, and
transferred from castle to castle, but the
Breton nobles took up arms for him, and
accomplished his deliverance. During
this period, most of the fine chateaux of
Brittany suffered from sieges and assaults,
and all the castles of the Pen t hie v res were
demolished.
Marshal Gillks de Retz.— The extraordi-
nary trial of the Marshal Gilles de Retz
for sorcery and murder, which took place
about this time (1440), gives an insight
into the arbitrary and tyrannical conduct
of the feudal lords. The circumstances
will be found under Tiffauges, Route XI.
John V. was succeeded by Francis I., his son,
whose reign is principally infamous from
the tragical story of the murder of his
brother Gilles.— Vide Guildo, Route IV.
The death of Francis is attributed partly to
dropsy, partly to supernatural agency ; but
the story is one of the most famous of the
Vie Sainte de Bretagne. His successor,
Peter II- lived in the odour of sanctity and
perpetual chastity, though .married. He
was induced by the priests to pay homage
to France for his throne, an act fully
ratified by his successor, Arthur II., who
died in 1458. He was succeeded by his
nephew, Francis IL, who founded the Uni-
versity of Nantes, and did much toencourage
letters in Brittany. He became mixed up
Introduction.]
HISTORY OT BBITTAKY.
45
with the League formed against Louis
King of France by the Dukes of Berry,
Burgundy, and Bourbon, and at the termi-
nation of the quarrel found himself com-
pelled to submit to humiliating terms, and
Brittany became an "arriere-fief' to
France.
The domination of his mistress, Madame de
Villequer, niece of Agnes Sorel, and the
intrigues of bis favourites, Landois and
Chaurin, against each other, disturbed his
reign with complications and embroilments,
which were further aggravated by the
intrigues connected with the disposal of the
hand of his daughter, the Princess Anne.
Anne of Brittany.
The Duke would hare been glad to dispose
of her to any of the competitors, to the
Duke of Orleans, the Sieur d'Albret, or
to Maximilian, the King of the Romans,
but the King of France wanted her for
his son, afterwards Charles VIII. D'Albret
was old, and ugly as a Polichinelle, while
Maximilian was young and lusty, almost
a giant in size and stature. Anne her-
self was young and spirituelle, and in-
clined to the latter, so that when the
Austrian ambassador came to ask her
hand by proxy she gave a willing consent.
Her father died of chagrin in 1488, being
obliged to sign a humiliating treaty with
the King of France, after the Battle of 3.
Aubin du Cormier, where the Marquis
Tremouille defeated the allied forces of the
Bretons and the League, with a loss of
6,000 men to the Bretons alone. The pos-
session of Anne was equivalent to the
possession of the throne of Brittany, which
according to many precedents, had been
transmitted by the female side.
The process of espousal, as related by Dam,
is a curious instance of marriage ceremonies
at that period. " On mit la jeune marine
au lit, et Vambassadeur Autrichien tenant a
fa main la procuration de son maitre intro-
duisit sa jambe nue jutque" au genou dam la
couche nuptiale."
The King of France was highly incensed at
the espousal, and determined to prevent the
consummation of the marriage, in which
design he was favoured by the backward-
ness of Maximilian. A French army again
overran Brittany, and Anne, besieged in
Rennes, found herself obliged to yield to
the solicitations of the King of France, to
whom she was married on December 6th,
1491, at Languy, in Touraine, not without
imputation of violence being used against
her. The throne of Brittany was ceded to
France by special contract. Anne was only
15 at the time of her marriage, and had a
son at 16, who lived only three years.
Charles VIII. died seven years after his
marriage, and Anne, now free, and Duchess
of Brittany in her own right, bestowed her
hand on the late king's brother, the Duke
of Orleans, now Louis XII. He obtained a
divorce from his first wife on the score of
her deformity, by large bribes to the Pope
Alexander VI., and his son, C«sar Borgia.
Brittany In the Sixteenth Century.
Anne, finding Louis likely to die, endea-
voured to convey her property away from
France to Brittany, but the Marshal
D'Amboise stopped the barges, an act
which the king on his recovery refused to
sanction, and D'Amboise was disgraced
and banished.
Anne died in 1514, aged 37, and the king
married a sister of Henry VIII. of England,
but died shortly after, and was succeeded
by the Duke of Angoul&me, as Francis I.
He married Claude, the daughter of Anne
by the late king, and thus established the
title of France to Brittany.
Francis I. lost the Battle of Pavia, in 1524,
and, being taken prisoner, Brittany had to
pay part of his ransom.
Cession of Brittany to F*ance— At a
meeting of the states at Chateaubriant,
Brittany was formally ceded to the King of
France. Its revenues were estimated at
450,000 lit. tournou.
Francis was succeeded, in 1547, by his second
son, Henry II. In his persor
YS
50
BRADSHAW'ft BRITTAKY.
[Route 2.
tags; the interior is in the style of a Grecian
Temple; the principal title has a richly decorated
▼anlted roof, supported by massive Corinthian
columns ; frescoes by Le Henaff and Jobbe*-Duval ;
The oldest church in Bennes it S. Germain ; but
parti of 8. If elalne are at old at the 11th century.
The old Porte de Mordelaite, the ceremonial en-
trance into Bonnet, still exists. Near the river, in
a centra! position, it the Palai* Univertitairt, with
an extensive museum and a large gallery of
paintings. For admiation apply to the concierge
at the back of the building, in the "Rue
TouUier;" the public are admitted on Thurs-
days and Sundays from noon to 4 p.m.
The Hotel de Ville (17*4) it a handsome
building; opposite to it it the modern Theatre,
with covered arcades around, lined with good shops;
both are on the Place. There are numerous bar-
racks in erery direction, and a Champ de Mart;
a large garrison of artillery it alwayt stationed
here. About 2 miles from the town is the Polygon,
where they are instructed and drilled.
A Tory pretty walk along the rirer bank
leads to the Chateau of La Prtvalaft (2 miles), in
which it shown a room which was occupied by
Henri Quatre when he came here to shoot and
hunt in 1698; the avenue leading to the house
hat tome one trees. Most ddidou* butter it made
here, and goes by the name of *beurre de la Pre*-
valaye; " the greater part of it is tent off by rail
every evening to Parit for the next morning's
breakfast table; it it alwayt told in stone jars,
and only in small quantities
There It a fine library of 68,000 volt, and many old
M8S. The modern part of Bonnet it well-built, light
and airy, with lofty houses, and regular streets and
squares. It hat extensive jCfatwres, where flax is
spun and canvas made, large barracks, and there
is a general air of activity and enterprise about the
town, especially since the opening of the railways.
There are fine public gardens with panoramic views
of the country round. They have been enlarged
and laid out with numerous pretty walks.
Excursions may be made in all directions by rail.
Kennesis an excellent point du depart. The following
rvtrrespondances leave Bennes daily : to Becherel
.. Bougeret at 6 a.m.; St. Anbin du Cornier
Cbateaubriant and Se'gre* at 8 p.m.
On the line from Bonnet to Chlteaubriant i«
Janx4 (Stat), 8 kilom. from which it the vi lngo
of Eo4, near which is an "allee-converte" of
schist, 74 feet long it has 10 cap-stones, 42
supports, and 2 chambers.
ROUTE n.
HAVRE TO RBNHB8,
180 MILKS.
Iirro Bkittaxt from Havkb (by Hoxfleuk).
The tourist will find this an agreeable route,
affording him the opportunity of seeing some prett y
scenery and manyNorman towns toollttle visited by
Englishmen. HavTO is too well known to require
description. Its history as set forth in Bradshaw*
Handbook to Normandy, has, however, some claim
upon our interest. A large colony of English will
be found in Havre, especially about the heights
of Ingouvflle and Ste. Adresse, and all English
luxuries may be obtained here. Excursions may be
made toROtLttQ, with its splendid Gothic churchc* ;
to Harfleur and Hontevilliers, interesting from thei r
historical souvenirs ; to HonJIeur (across the mouth
of the Seine), a picturesque old seaport ; thence
by rail to Pont4*-Evtqve % at which a halt should b<*
made to have a run by rail down to Trouville and
DeauvMe, the two prettiest watering-places on the
north coast of France. From Trouville, an hour's
ride will bring the tourist to the Chdttau de Bonne-
witte, now a modernised residence, where William
the Conqueror formed his project for invading
England.
Thence by rail through Pont-1'Evgque, to Lisp u.r
(Handbook to Normandy), famous for its cotton and
canvas factories, and past Me'zldon Junction (from
which the railway branches off to Le Mans), to
Ct\en (BUX.)— Hotels: D'Angleterre and D'Es-
pagne, both good and in the Bue St. Jean ; Hotel
de la Place Boyale, on the Place Royale, is fre-
quented by commercial travellers. At this ancient
city the tourist should rest awhile, to visit the
various objects of interest : the old churches (sonu-
eighteen in number, but many desecrated); the
church of 8. Pierre; the abbayes, u aux Homme*;'
and %i uux Domes ;" the library, containing 90,000
volumes; the Lyce*e (very unlike an English
BJLTRB TO RBH9KB.
Route 2.]
college), Ac There is an English Vice-Consul here,
and a Church of England Chaplain. Service is held
on Sundays, morning and evening, at 8t. Michael's
Church, Rue Richard Lenoir.
Caen may be reached from Havre by steamer
daily, in about 3 hours; the hour of starting
depends on the tide. It is, however, a boisterous
passage with a northerly wind.
From Caen the railway should be taken to Vlre,
through Villers-Bocage, a village in a picturesque,
undulating, well wooded country, famous for
butter and eggs. Also by rail to BaytUX, to see
the famous Tapestry, 80 yards long, worked by
Queen Matilda, consort of William the Conqueror.
It represents the history of the Conquest of
England, terminating with the Battle of Haatings.
His seal is also kept here.
Vlre (Stat.)— -ffofefo: Cheval Blanc; de St.
Pierre— a very pretty country town of 6,635
inhabitants. From the hill above the town,
crowned by the ruins of the old Castle of Mont-
gomery, which figured in the Religious Wars, may
be seen a beautiful panorama of the valleys watered
by the Vire, which are called the Vaux de Vlre.
This name, corrupted into Vaudeville, is dear to
every Frenchman who loves wine and song for
here lived Olivier Basselin, who wrote Ana-
creontic Chansons, such as JoK Nez % and others,
in praise of the bottle, e.g.,
M Le cUovetia <rae faint* est eetoi am tamteflles,
11 vant often mieux eeeher too. nes daaa un grand run,
II eat mienxajenre qu'ea an eaeqae de guerre."
There are many objects of interest in the neigh-
bourhood, but we are not yet in Brittany.
Domfront (St4\t>— flote/: De la Poste. Rail
from Caen, 56 miles. A charming village with an
old ruined tower, perched on a rocky height, and an
eleventh century cathedral. The castle was often
taken and retaken during the religious wars of the
sixteenth century. From here 16 miles by rail to
Mortaln (SUA.}— Hotels: De la Poste; Saint
Guillaume. A village of 2,230 inhabitants,
picturesquely situated in a rocky valley through
which two rivers fall from ledge to ledge in spark-
ling cascades. The church is a very ancient con-
struction, enriched with quaint sculptures and
carvings of the twelfth and fourteenth centuries.
Tlnchfttaray is another romantic little town of
historical importance, and charmingly situated.
51
It can be visitedby rail either from Vlreor Mortain .
The "Buttes Brimbal," a high mountain close at
hand, is the source of several rivers of Normandy.
The Battle of Tinchebray, fought here in 1106, put
an end to the civil war between the sons of William
the Conqueror. The victory of Henry over his
brother Robert was mainly owing to the assistance
of Alain Fergant, Duke of Brittany. Robert, Duke
of Normandy, was taken prisoner, and kept in
captivity during his life.
From Mortain the line runs through 8. Hilaire
du Harcouet, a modern village, and Louvigne',
where we enter Brittany, and soon pass under
the castled crags of the old frontier fortress of
Fongfas (Stat) — Hotel: St. Jacques. A
mediaeval town, full of traces of the turbulent
times of chivalry. The Baron of Fougeres ranked
with the Baron of Vitre" among the Seigneurs of
Brittany. It was destroyed by the Bretons on
the expulsion of Eudes by the people of Nantes in
1156. Raoul and the Baron of Fougeres, "par la
grace de Dieu," successfully held it against the
English. In 1488 it was seised by La Tremoullle
for the King of France, and held in sequestration
during the minority of Anne of Brittany.
In the Vendean War the Royalists seised it
during their march to Le Mans. Parts of the old
castle still exist, particularly a tower called t'«e
Tour de Melusine. It was erected by Hughes de
Lusignan, and called after that fairy, from wheni
the family claimed to be descended. The arihi-
tecture it of the 19th century ; that of the " Tour
des Gobelins" (named after another fairy), and
which is higher, is of the 18th century. This huge
castle is well worth a visit ; it is picturesque and
curious. Permission is readily granted; ring the
bell at the right of entrance ; the attendant will
expect a gratuity. Alongside the Church of
St. Leonard is the " Place des arbres," a pretty
public promenade, from which splendid views of
the valleys of the Naneon and the Couesnon will
be obtained, as also of the surrounding country,
which is well wooded. A rail is open from here
to Pontorson thence coach, 5} miles, to Mont St.
Michel. The rail may be taken to Rennes. Rail to
Avrancbes. Also diligence at €-15 a.m., 4 francs ;
also to Rennet at 2-0 p.m^ 4 franca 60 ce-*
8 francs 50 cents inttfrieur.
52
BRABOUW* BBMTAKT.
[Route a.
8. AKMn-lfttt-Connler is « small tillage, half-
way between Fougeres and Remes, -which is
famous ©rrty as the seene of the great battle
between the troops of *the King-of Prance- (Charles
VIH.), underlie TremotfHle anil the levees of the
League, under the Duke of Orleans. The Preneh
were completely victorious, and 6,090 Bretons
were slain on the field. A few Bngtteh took part
m the battle, 4ntt the anajority arrWed tee late.
Many of the Bretons were dressed in jftngJialt
ttitrfeems *e etrlke tenrer into the •aaasay. The
oastJe was bulk by 4nern*»dtaeuoUnittsVA0ta
frontier oaetls.
From .». Anbin a somewhat TralHSeresting drtws
of 20 jttUas ithresgb JLiffri brings the toariet to
leans* .(fton** I,) A aonespoiidnaoe daily to
Bennea-
botte m.
Into Bsittant from Cherbourg. Chibboubo
to 8. malo, 110 milks, jjy j8. l6, avbahcbbi,
Pol U»n> 8. Halo).
tihjgfcasjig (gt|£>-JZ»te(s.' ftcand Hotel des
Bain* de Mar; de rAJgle; da i'Amirant^ de
l'Univers. Ibis sown Jha* 4ittie4hat is jrenuwk-,
able,; the Hotel de ViUe.is situated an the Place
d'Annes; it contains s> museum, .library, and
a gallery of paintings, and is open doily to
straw*™ Irom noon to a p.m. In the centre of
the Place there is an equestrian statue of
Napoleon I., wbosexighc hand paints to the stupen-
dous works wbioh .were undertaken by this* in
order to xw»derflhejrt>OA?g.a«t«oiig naval arsenal;
on the pedestal is insoexhed
' ' J\OTaU wtatlxk. is ttrnm/nfm e-flaerisowg
les werveillei d'Rgypto"
The obelisk on the " Place d'Annes" was erected
in 1821, in honour of the Dae de Berry ; on another
square there is * bronze boat of Briqueville, one
of the heroes of the first Empire.
The Chjuroh of Xetee -Dame das Veen* wee bnUt i
by .order of cfae J&mpres* Maibilda, daujfeter of
Henry I. of England, W fjulfiUsemt ef a w>w as**
by ^er in a. atone, in whsahtbe vessel mm Jkeoriy
lost* when she landed at Charbeiuiff in the
thirteenth century. She tended at * spat where
Uic present dockfejrd stands, on whieh a chapel
t\flk *ou Ut.
The mercantile pectin a .basin tonne* by the
i of the DbvatSM, ethteh are retained by
caJesona .and look^etes ; ills IfBUt/feat ions;, ty
194 feet broad.
To visit the Breakwater. -The hire oT a boat to
carry Jive persons is 10 francs, and 2 francs
additional for each person above that number. It
will be advisable to request the "maitre d'hotel"
to procure one, as he knows who are trustworthy
boatmen ; the price to be paid should be settled
beforehand. Be sure not to accept a boat that has
not two boatmen; this excursion will require
about three hours at least. The French axe fond,
in summer, of breakfasting on the Breakwater, and
carry with them a basket of cooked provisions
provided for them at their hotel. There is a room
reserved for this purpose at the canteen of the
11 fort central," but scarcely anything excepting
wine or coffee can be procured there. A small
narbour for boats Is under this fort ; it is here that
passengers should land. The Breakwater forts
mount 330 guns ; its length is 4,111 yards; breadth
at base, 180 yards; breadth at top, 11 yards;
height above water, 30 Jeet. The Port formed by
the Breakwater - encloses about 3,000 acres, and
the largest ships can ride there completely
sheltered.
VUit to Fort Roule.^For pedestrians about an
hour's walk— ascend by the zjfltag at the foot of
the took; there is also a carriage road ; the price
of a vehicle is 5 francs. The view from the
summit is really magnificent ; immediately below
is the commercial basin, and, beyond, the
Breakwater, With its forts and the ships of war at
anchor under Hs shelter; on the left is the
Dockyard, with its extensive basins, workshops,
and building slips ; on its extreme point is Fort
Hommet, which defends the western entrance,
to the right, on two islands, are the Forts Cha-
vagnac and National ; .and on the land the fort of
Querquevfllc, which defend the Eastern entrance,
,and which render the port almost impregnable
Ifrom the sea.
Vitit Ao ike £*o**«rrf -^Application far per-
i mi a stan to .enter this eatvel arsenal most to made
at the "Bmrean de la efejovite* General*;" hot
[foreigners are not admitted unices they axe jure-
Routes.]
<TH»ttBtftttKJ lO t»V MULO.
66
•anted by their Ooneul. There are here three
basins which have been dug out of the solid rook,
and which cover an are* of aba*! 50 acres;
the "bassin Napoleon," to the loft, is- L.3flfrfeet
long, by 626 feet broad, and there is nav«r less
than 30 feet of water In it, It ooutaine the ships
which are dismantled: in reserve, and.it has docks
and slip* The "fitting basin " is tb the right;
the storehouses are eonvenientty placed between
these basins, The third basin, or ' ' Avaut Port, "
usually contains vessels that have bean re-fitted*
the one whieh»ottrriastha<adntlraL r s flags is-a prison
for the ooniinamtns.of officers under arrest, or by
aenteuce of court martiaL There are several
building slip*; n steam factory, for the repair of
engines and boilers; a» also an armeury, e#n>
taining not lesa than thirty thousand stand of
arm*; which are arranged, with great taste. In
one room they shew the stone wMeh covered
ttapoleonVgrave «tst. Heiemu
There ia a Casino with a nlee garden at Cher-
bourg; tbfrbatbing ifrgood, on a beeeh of fine white
sand. Refreshments- may be had' here in the
The chtteaa of TourUmlU, a> pretty country
house, not without • movrnfttl legend attached to
it, is well worth the fmflsr walk wMeh lead* to it.
Rail to OaJentaa (Stat.), an old-fashioned
town, in a low struatton, inhabited (8,4«) chiefly
by fishermen. Its principal lion is a fine Gothic
church, of the 15th century, with opert-worK towers
and pinnacles:
In journeying from Cherbourg to S. LO, change
trains at Liaon (Stat.)
St. L6 (Stat.)— Hotel* : Cheval Blaue and Soleil
Levant. Chief town- of the department of Xanehe,
with 11,445 inhabitants, a prettily situated town
in an undulating country, famous for its pasturage.
The upper town is the older part, and dates to the
time of Charlemagne. There is a haras here
for breeding horses. The Prefecture, Tribunal
de Justice, and the Hotel de Ville, which baa been
built, with oooaUeraUe taste, are ou the Place.
In the* latter there, is. » square block of marble,
called " Le mavbre de Torigny;" it has inscrip-
tions- on three of its sides, which are said to. be
of the third century. It is surmounted by a boat .
of Le- Verrier. I» the municipal library there h> a
iars/e collection of eharters anterior to the lour*
teenth century; they relate to Normandy and
England; and<many of them bear the seal of
William the Conqueror. A few crumbling walls
mark the enesfate at m strong eastlew The lower
town is of recent date. The church of Notre
Dame is well placed for effect, and it* elegant
spires and rose windows show well upon the'
high ground on which the church stands. On
the outside of the church is a stone pulpit for
open-air preaching.
Diligences run from this to Vire, through
Torigny, formerly a royal demesne. Part of the
old chftteau still remains, and contains some fine
Gobelins tapestry and historical pictures.
On the direct road to Avranches lies ViUedxeu,
surnamed Lei Poites, or "pots and pans," from the
manufactureof saucepans and other copper articles
carried on here-. Rail from St. LO to
CbUlAUluet (Start )— Hotels : Grand Hotel de
France; Hotel d'Angleterre. One of the most
ancient cttte* of' Xormandy, and the earliest cathe-
dral establishment. The population is 8,145.
The town stands high, and is visible for many miles.
TheCathedtaly with its three towers, tea magnifi-
cent- buMdIng, and' may b» distinctly seen from
Jersey. It Is doubtful whether the date usually
a*eigned(lM6} is not toe early for the pointed style
of architecture which prevails. The twin* sptres
are- very delleatety carved, and the thirds pt*ced
over an octagonal dome, is said to hover ceiled
forth the remark from Vaubun,--"QueT est- le fou
saMimeqoe alaned verrle del unevotte»a«sti
hardie." There it* a "tonftiderable quantify of
fifteenth century glass* in the windows of the
transepts and of the choir, principally diaeered
patterns, black on » grey ground: the apsldei and
the nave chapels- are remarka-bta, and are of great
beauty. 1 ' Notice the sido inwdies under the>toweri.
In the p-ablio Gardens tltere is- a granite
obelisk to the memory of Quesnel-Moriniere,
the donor of these gardens to the town; ami on
toe "Place de la Soue-Pre'foctui a" there is a
bronze statue of Le Brua, Due* de Plaisanee,
minister of the first empire. There are two other
churches besides the Cathedral. 8. Pierre is
■buyt in the style of the fifteenth and sixteenth
o^
BBADSHAW'S BRITTANY.
[Route 3.
centuries; the tower dates 1580; the transept has
a dome to which one can ascend by an elegant
spiral staircase ; the stalls in the choir are of the
seventeenth century; the pulpit belonged formerly
to the Abbey of Luzerne. 8. Nicholas is of the
fourteenth century; the spire is of the eighteenth;
<t is a heavy building and has lately been under
restoration.
Following the Rue des Pllliers, at a short dis-
tance out of the town, will be found the ruins of
the aqueduct of Coutanccs; it dates from the
thirteenth century, and was built to replace the
Roman one which was destroyed by the Normans.
Excursions.— To the oyster pares of Regneville,
where there are immense basins for the reproduc-
tion or this bivalve. To the beach of Agon Cou-
tainville, 8 miles, where there is capital bathing.
Omnibus, 75 cents.
Granville (Stat.), a seaport and fishing town,
containing 12,721 inhabitants, the terminus of a
rail to Paris.
Hotels: Du Nord ; des Trois Couronnes ; Grand
Hotel.
Voitures, 3 francs per hour.
The aspect of the town is stony and arid from
the absence of foliage; all the buildings, houses,
quays, and fortifications, are of granito from the
Ohausey Isles. The clatter of the sabots on the
granite stones will strike the stranger.
There is a good pier and floating dock here;
the principal tra^c is cod fishing with Newfound-
land and Iceland, which employs about 400 vessels.
The church in the upper town is a heavy building,
of the Flamboyant style of architecture; there is
a splendid viow from the lighthouse, from which
Jersey is visible.
The Casino and "Salon des bains" here arc
readied by a bridge, and a gap cut through
the solid rock called "La tranche*e aux Anglais."
Instead of bathing machines, numbers of canvas-
covered sedan ehairs, called "cabanncs," are
used ; the sands are fine and smooth.
A steamer leaves the "bassin a not" every
Sunday for Chaussey, and remains there about
Ave hours; return ticket, 8 francs. This is a
means of seeing these islands, which are
"eating to those who collect zoophites
and alga. Lobsters are obtained here in great
numbers.
The women of Granville are reputed for their
beauty; they have dark hair, dark eyes, and
a complexion resembling the southern races;
they wear a very becoming white cap, which
greatly sets off their hair; they also wear a cloth
hooded cloak, lined with white silk, which gives
them a coquettish appearance. They are a
masculine race, and act as porters to unload the
ships and passenger vessels.
Excursions— To St. Pair , a small watering place,
with fine sands; it is about an hour's walk, but
there are omnibuses from Granville, fare, 75 cents.
French visitors generally breakfast here and
return to Granville for dinner.
Mont St. Michel (see next page) may also be
visited from here; and it cannot be too strongly
urged on strangers who hire a carriage for that
purpose, to make their driver take them through
Avranches instead of by Genets; the latter road is
about 8 miles shorter, but it is dangerous, and acci-
dents have frequently occurred.
The history of Granville does not date further
back than the fifteenth century. Like S. Malo it sent
out privateers to enrich themselves on English
commerce. It was attacked in 1 798 by the Vendean
army, after their passage of the Loire, but resisted
their assault. In 1803 it was bombarded by an
English fleet.
Steamer to Jersey leaves on Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday. Passage, three hours.
Ayrancnes (Bta.%.)-- Hotels: De Londres;
d'Angleterre ; de Bretagne. A very beautifully
situated but dullandold-fashioned town, containing
7,785 Inhabitants. It was anciently an important
bishopric, with a grand cathedral, but there remain
of it but a few fragments and a flat stone, upon
which, It is said, Henry II. received absolution,
after disavowing the murder of Thomas a Becket.
This stone is enclosed by posts and chains on
the Place Huet, near the Sous Prefecture; it has
an inscription.
There are many English residents here, and
an English Chaplain. The principal feature of
Avranches is the Botanical Garden, from which
may be enjoyed magnificent views, westward, of
the bay of S Michel, with "the great vision of the
Uoute 3.]
FONTOBSOH — MOHT 8. MICHEL.
55
guarded Mount, " rising from the waste of water*,
and the river serpentining through the meadows
and woodlands, till it loses itself in the yellow
wind*. " On the terrace of the Botanical Gardens
will be seen the porch of an ancient chapel, long
since swallowed np by the sands: a brass plate is
fi xed to it, relating the circumstance of its erection
in that place." In the midst of the public garden
there is a marble statue to General Valhubert, a
nat ire of Avranches, who was killed at Austerliti.
Diligences twice dally to Vtlledleu-les-Poeles
to meet trains.
Nont 8. Michel may be risited from ATranches
across the sands ; the route is not quite free from
danger —carriage, 15 francs. It Is better to pro-
ceed by Pontorson — carriage, IS francs.
A return ticket may be taken at ATranches
for the omnibus at Pontorson for the Mount,
running in July, August, and September.
PontOTlOn (Stat.), a small town with a tolerable
Hotel de la Poste and posting house. Carriages for
the Mount 10 francs. There is a fine old granite
church; and in former days Duguesclln had a
oastle here. The church was built by Robert, the
father of William the Conqueror; the nare is
Norman. In one of the aisles there are a number
of sculptures and bas-reliefs of the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries, representing various scenes of
the passion of our Saviour; unfortunately they are
much mutilated.
Near the Hotel de 1*0 nest the road is crossed
by a bridge over the River Couesnon, which
separates Normandy from Brittany.
Constance, the mother of Prince Arthur, was
taken prisoner at Pontorson by the emissaries of
King Richard, at the Instigation of her husband,
the Earl of Chester, In 1196.
Moldrey Is a small place about half the
distance to the beach opposite to Mont 8. Michel,
and where (In the season) are to be found
omnibuses which run to the Mount, but, ai they
are somewhat uncertain. It will be better to take
the regular conveyance at Pontorson.
There is a causeway across the sands to Mont
8. Michel (length over a mile), which renders it
less difficult of approach but In case of a high
spring tide, or a fog coming on, the transit Is not
without danger. Pedestrians who cross the sand*
should be accompanied by a guide, as they are
constantly shifting, and fogs are frequent. A guide
may be obtained at the last house on the beach.
The road from Pontorson, after passing Moldrey,
is now macadamised, and available at all states
of the tide. The vehicles drive up to the foot of the
Mount. The road is excellent throughout, and
omnibuses leave the Pontorson Station on the
arrival of every train ; return fare, fir. Wc.
Hotels (at the Mount): 8. Michel and Lion d'Or,
where a meal and a clean bed may be obtained.
The appearance of the Mount is rtry striking,
rising, as it does, abruptly from the sands, and
shooting up Its granite peaks, crowned with lofty
walls and high-peaked roofs. Round the base is a
circuit of old walls, with towers at Intervals, and
It is entered only through a succession of well-
guarded gates. The topmost tower of the church
was formerly crowned by a telegraph.
Mont S. Michel seems always to have been a
sacred place. In early times it was called Mons
Beleni, and had a college of Druidesses. The
Romans called it Mons Jovis, and Christianity
dedicated it to S. Michael, the conqueror of the
dragon and, as in many other localities, the patron
saint of high places. It was the seat of a colony
of Cistercian monks, founded by S. Aubert, Bishop
of A Tranches, in 709 ; and, at the Conquest, it had
the monastery of Mont S. Michel, In Cornwall,
annexed to it. It has been used at various times
as a state prison, but for some time was let to the
diocesan, who established an orphanage, work-
shops for glass-painting, sculpture, Ac. Of late
years it has been taken out of the hands of the
clergy, and the " Monuments," as they are called,
are now the property of the State. They have
been to some extent restored.
The Mount was also a strong fortress, and stood
many sieges, he difficulty of approach favouring
its natural strength. It repelled the attacks of the
English, in 1424. Between the first and second
gateways are two largo iron cannon, of 19 and 15
inches calibre respectively. They are of Flemish
manufacture, and were abandoned by the English
forces in 1434 under Henry V., when they !~
r sg
BKADSHAW'8 MHTTAHY.
[Route 4.
possessing the fatness or delicacy of our natives;
bnt they are fine flavoured and relish well with a
glass of chablls. About thirty millions are annu-
ally sent to Paris, though the yield is decreasing of
Inte years.
BOUTE IV.
IlfTO BSITTAXT FBOM THE ChAUVSL ISLAXDS, TO
S. Malo axd Roots*.
From Jersey, which is amply described in Brad-
shate's Handbook to Great Britain, steamers run
to 8. Malo on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.
The distance is about 85 miles, and is performed
i n little more than three hours. The course of the
steamer lies near the Minquiers Rock*, an awfully
ragged group of reefs; and the Chausey Islands
may be seen to the eastward, looking like ruined
castles on the sea. They are inhabited by a few
fishermen and kelp-burners, and the granite is
extensively quarried for building purposes. The
zoophytes of Chausey are unrivalled for number
and beauty, and have been worthily illustrated by
MM. Audouinand Edwards, the French naturalists,
who spent many months upon the islands for the
purpose of scientific investigation. The climate is
so damp that they could scarcely keep their
instruments from rusting. Steamers also direct
from Southampton.
8. HolO (Stat.)— Population, 11,896. Hotels:
Franklin, the best for English visitors, a good
table— prices moderate; de I'Untvers; de France
(Chateaubriant), good table d'hdte.
" It would be well that it should be generally
known that the examination at the custom-house
has been here for some time patt very rigorous;
small parcels, rags, and coats are opened, and
occasionally the passengers 1 pockets are turned
out on their landing. No tobacco is permitted to
be landed without paying duty, not even a few
cigars In a case."
The appearance of 8. Malo from the sea is very
singular, being shut in by a tight belt of fortifi-
cations, and everywhere surrounded by rugged,
forbidding rocks, and solid walls bristling with
cannon. Capacious docks of massive granite may
be seen rising in every direction, but the pros-
Malo is of the past, when its armed
privateers sallied forth to prey upon the commerce
of England in the western seas. The streets
are both dirty an unsavoury, owing to their
narrowness and the great height of the houses.
A broad walk extends completely round the ram-
parts, and affords a breath of fresh air and an
extensive prospect to the Malouins. At low water
the whole coast Is studded with dangerous rocks,
and at high water numerous islands rise above the
waves, most of them crowned with fortifications.
The largest islands are called La Conchee and
Cezambre, both strongly fortified by Vauban.
The little islet of Grand Bey is the resting
place of Chateaubriand. It is easily accessible
by the shore at low water. His monument is
a plain slab, with a cross at the head, surrounded
by an iron railing. At the Hotel de France, Chateau-
briand was born. "Id naqvit Chateaubriand" is
written up outside, and prices rule somewhat
higher on the strength of it. A statue to the poet
was inaugurated in 1875, on the Place opposite,
now called Place Chateaubriand. At the Hotel
de Ville are relics of Cartier, the discoverer of
Canada.
There are a British Vice-Consul and a British
Chaplain here. Steamers leave for Jersey, Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday ; and for Southamp-
ton, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; also up
the Ranee every day in summer.
There is an extensive casino and sea-bathing
establishment at S. Malo, and a very curious
spectacle do the bathers afford to the visitor fresh
from England. Races are also held on the sands in
the autumn.
S. Malo is said to derive its name from an old
Breton Saint, Magloire, or Maclou; in earlier
times it was called Aleth, and held high rank
among the cities of Armorica. Quldallet, probably
8. Servan, was the scene of the great battle between
Maximus and his British troops, and the troops of
the Emperor Gratian, in a.d. 883.
The Malouins were always a very independent
body of citizens, and relied upon the natural
strength of their position to protect them from
foreign invaders and domestic foes. The castle
was always a very hard nut to crack. The Eng-
lish made several unsuccessful attempts upon it.
In 1875 they attacked it with 400 cannons, but
Route 4.]
8. MALO— 8. SBKVAK.
59
were beaten off ; and Clisson in 1400 Rent out from
it Urge fleets of privateers to attack Jersey and
Guernsey. In 1414 thfijuttafint castle and fortlfi-
UJ
O
residents. It ia an ugly, dull place, but the country
round, especially up the Ranee, is striking. There
is as old-established English chapel here.
~ ~ — * storehouses,
idd to the
te" is strong
theSolidor,
he harbour,
tiree round
ipe. u It is
itfort, Duke
of S. Halo.
move left ;
iking a nap,
ich has erer
t.' or *Sc4i
ises near 8.
iote«r«inthe
ateaubriand
hey used to
n out of the
"La Haute
Brillantais,"
>r charming
ritles in the
nouth into a
>inard, much
sad of the bay
ice, formerly
f two young
'ho had been
e rescued by
j. Two much
of the priory
>unders.
from May to
sands and a casino. Hotels: uranu notct ; w> i«»
Plage, Chateaubriand. Diligence to Cancale.
8. Serrail (Hotel*: De 1' Union and Du Pelican),
is an ex ten si re suburb of S. Malo, containing
about 11,600 inhabitants, many of them English
AIIUNIg UUNl »*Vlwi M »..| „„
Ic (Route III.)
lies by rail), a
feudal castle.
;en by assault,
in 1156, by Raoul, Count of Fougeres. It is now
famous as the residence of the Chateaubriands, for
over a century and a half, and the room is shown
in which the poet composed most of his *~
62
BRADSHAW 8 BBITTAKY.
[Route 5.
The Urge rock lying to the north-west of the
cape if called the Amai dn Cap. The bold and
lofty cape to the west ie Erquy, beyond which is
the Bay of 8. Brieuc.
From Matignon the excursion may be continued
to Lamballe, or the tourist may go by PlanooBt to
Dinan. A Diligence runs daily between Matignon
and Dinan, leaving Matignon at 2-80 p.m.; Dinan
at 7-8% a.m., 2 fr. 60 eents; also one to Dinard, for
S. Malo.
ROUTE V.
f . HALO TO BBTMBS <contUm#d).
Dinan (Stat.), one of the most interesting
towns in Brittany (population, 10,444), may be
reached by several routes from S. Malo.
(a) By railway vid Dol.
(b) Via La Gouesniere, Cancale, and Minlac.
(c) By railway vid Dinard.
(d) By steamer up the Ranee, from 1st May to
30th September inclusive; a very picturesque and
pleasant trip, but dependent on the tide. 1st class,
2 J francs; return ticket, 4 francs; 2nd elass,
2 francs; return ticket, 8 francs.
Carriages wait at the quay for the steamer from
S. Malo, and convey visitors to the hotels for 60
centimes each.
Travellers shoutd be aware, when they arrive
by the steamer, of the fact that among the car-
riages waiting on the quay there are now usually
some which do not belong to the hotels, but to a
set of unscrupulous fellows, who seize upon their
luggage, get them into their carriages, and when
they reach the town demand the most extortionate
prices, even to 4 francs per head. Travellers will
do well before entering a carriage to ask the price ;
it should not exceed 60 cents, unless there is much
luggage.
Hotel*: De l'Angleterre; deBretagne(good); de
la Foste; du Commerce. The second offers the
greatest amount of comfort for ladies. All the
hotels have raised their prices during the season
*o 10 francs, without wine.
iU$h Church and Resident English chaplain.
The sail up the river Ranee is very picturesque,
and has been compared to the voyage up the Rhine,
"with a difference." It much resembles the Dart
up to Totnes.
The situation of Dinan is very striking and beau-
tiful. Perched on the summit of a steep scarped
rock over the Ranee, surrounded by old machico-
lated walls, and "commanding a view oyer the
prettiest scenery of Brittany, it is one of the most
attractive towns which the tourist will visit in his
travels.
The Ranee flows through deep gorges which it
has burst through the granite, here and there
assisted by quarrying; and the surrounding heights
are well wooded and crowned with old chateaux.
It derives its name evidently from the Celtic word
din or dincu, a fortified town, and anmcrn, a gulf or
abyss ; albeit etymologists have traced it to Diana,
or a mythical giant, Dianaf.
The great feature of the town is the enceinte of
fortifications and the massive gateways, which are
in good preservation.
The Viaduct which crosses the Ranee, and
which connects Dinan with Lanvalle*, is a work of
great beauty, being constructed entirely of cut
granite; it dates from 1848, but was not finished
till 1862. Its dimensions are— length, 820 feet ;
breadth, 16 feet; height above the river, 180 feet;
there are ten arches, each having a span of 60 feet.
The lofty tower at the entrance of the town is
the Chateau of the Duchess Anne, a beautiful relic
of the feudal times. The Porte* 8. Louis and 8.
Malo are also very good. Outside the walls is a
fine promenade called the Fossees, extending
nearly round the town.
The Chdteau was built about 1800, and was at one
time the residence of Anne of Brittany, but has
also been the prison of many illustrious persons.
Latterly it has been used as a common gaol. In the
interior is a curious chapel, and a fine view of the
surrounding country may be obtained from the top.
The Churches of 8. Sauveur and 8. Malo are
worth a visit, particularly the former. It is a
handsome building, in the Flamboyant style, with
curiously carved capitals, a south aisle in the Roman
style, and a modern spire. The west front is highly
ornamented with sculptures. At the east end are
Route 5.]
five projecting chapels, In good preservation. The
heart of Duguesclln, the Breton hero, who was In-
timately connected with Dlnan, Is said to be en-
closed in a cenotaph. The old Churchyard of S.
Sauveur is converted into a Jardln Anglais, and
from the promenade on the ramparts there is a
splendid panoramic view of the Ranee, winding
down the valley towards 8. Malo.
The Church of S. Malo is also a handsome edifice
of more recent date. The flying buttresses at the
east end are particularly fine. It has never been
finished, but of late years large sums have been
expended in its repair and completion.
A very steep and dirty street, called the Rue
Jersual, leads up from the port into the heart of the
town, and anyone accomplishing its slippery and
odorous ascent will be rewarded by seeing a fine
Gothic gateway half way up, and entering at once
upon the quaint old houses with projecting fronts,
on timber pillars, in the centre of the town.
The fine open space surrounded by lime trees is
the Place Duguesclin, and is said to have been the
Lice, or tilting ground, in which tournaments were
held. Here Duguesclln fought the famous duel with
Sir Thomas Canterbury, and his statue still frowns
defiance, at one end, In white plaster. The Sous
Prefecture Is situated in the Rue des Ecollers,
just inside the Port de 8. Malo. The Tribunal
is on the east side of the square; and at the south
end is the market place, on which, upon market
days, quaint gatherings of the peasantry may be
seen ; here the charlatan plies his noisy quackery,
and motley groups chaffer and hob-nob, and strike
hands over their bargains. There Is a good Museum
at the Motel de Vllle, containing many Interesting
relics of the past, collected by the late curator, M.
Odorici, particularly the monumental tfflgie* of the
Beaumanoirs and other Breton worthies, from the
ruined Abbey of Lelion, with some Roman coins
and other remains from Corseul, besides geological
specimens, Ac
Dlnan had Its share in the battles and sieges of
the olden times, and, like 8. Malo, was generally
successful in repelling the attacks of the English.
Bertrand Duguesclin defended It in 1889; his
memory is highly revered by the Dinannais, and
his portrait is in their museum.
8T. MALO TO BE»»EB— DIHAH.
63
A biography of this hero may well claim a little
space. He was born in the village of La MotU
Broom (now a railway station, near Montauban),
but there are no traces of his habitation there. In
his early days he was remarkable, not for his learn-
ing (lire ne seavait eserire ni compter), but for
extreme ugliness, great strength, and a pugnacious
disposition; all which qualities grew with his
growth, Ac.
In the Wars of the Succession he took an active
part on the side of De Blols, and though made
prisoner, as we have seen, at the Battle of Auray,
he gave the English and the partisans of De Mont-
fort continual trouble till his death. The chronicles
of Froissart are full of episodes of his chivalrous
life. He seems to have been gifted with immense
strength as well as military science, and with a
battleaxe or mace would dash into the melee, and
hew down all opponents. He was made Constable
of Brittany hy the King of France, after being ran-
somed from captivity, and when the War of the
Succession was ended, by the treaty of Guerrande,
he went into Spain, and engaged in active warfare
till his death. His wife was the Lady Tiphaine, of
Dlnan, and the house where they lived is still
shown. He was taken ill and died while besieging
the Castle of Randon, near Puy, in Auvergne, in
1880, but not before he had contributed to expel the
English from almost all their possessions in Brit-
tany and France. His body was conveyed to the
Church of 8. Denis, near Paris, and his heart was
deposited In the Church of 8. Sauveur, at Dlnan ;
but it is more than questionable whether it is there
still, In spite of the inscription to that effect.
Dlnan is one of the towns in which religious
processions take place with great pomp and cere-
mony, with the accessories of repoeoirs, banners
Ac, on the high festivals of the church.
A great fair is held on the Place on the first
Thursday after the first Sunday in Lent, with very
bizarre accompaniments of shows and music
Bodies of conscripts for the French army often
pass through the town, and sing their national
songs, and sometimes dance their peculiar dances
on the Place, as they bid farewell to their set natal.
In 1858 the Emperor and Empress of the French
passed through Dinan, and were well rec*'
Dlnan rejoices in a "Saiton da eau
06
BBA.D8HAW 8 BRITTA.NY.
[Route 6.
EOUTE VI.
BENNE8 TO 8. BRIEUC.
60 miles by Railway.
Tha stations through which the rail passes on
leaving Rf^Pf offer nothing remarkable in the
present day; although both Montfort-sur-Meu, and
Montauban were once the scenes of hard fighting.
Pl4n6e-Jnff011 (Stat), see page 65..
La Brolllni^r© (Stat), the junction for the
line now open to Ploe*rmel, and the projected line
to Dinan.
Canines (Stat.) has a certain notoriety as the
birthplace of Matthew Ory, graud inquisitor of
France, temp. Francis I., and Broom (Stat.) a»
the birthplace of Duguesclin.
T ^ Tp jy^llA (Stat.), population, 4,525, is an in-
teresting town in many respects.
The Hotel de France (Converset) is a comfortable
and cheap inn; much patronised by the gentle-
men "sportman" of the Lamballe Hunt.
Hotel du Commerce, at the Railway Station.
Its Castle was one of the dependencies of the
Penthievres, and was assaulted and destroyed
under the same circumstances as Jugon (page 65);
scarcely a vestige of it now remains. The Church
is finely situated on an eminence; the pointed
arches, clustered pillars, and lancet windows,
apeak of a choice era of architecture; but the
modern restorations and the kaleidoscopic coloured
glass inserted in the windows, are in wretched
taste.
Lamballe is a clean looking country torn, a
favourite residence of the old noblesse, "lavieitte
riche" of Brittany. The sad fate of the Princess
de Lamballe who followed her mistress, Marie
Antoinette, through the horrors of the Temple, and
La Force, is still vividly remembered, and hopes,
■perhaps, survive here of a restoration of the legiti-
mate reigning family to the throne.
The French Government have at Lamballe a
-"Haras" or breeding establishment of horses for
mounting their cavalry.
An excursion may be made from Lamballe to
Moncontour, 8 miles, particularly at the time of
**, a Pardon of S. Mathurin.
AtOtlT (population, 1,808; Hotel: Du
is most lomnntically situated on a
rocky eminence surrounded by wooded ravines. It
still retains its old walls and towers, once a strong
castle of the Rohan Penthievres, and the scene of
many a tough contest; but now sadly dilapidated
and desecrated with flaming hand-bills of cheap
tailoring and "Mort aux Rats."
The church dedicated to S. Barbe Is a fine old
building of irregular architecture, with elaborate-
ly carved cornices and capitals, and "storied
windows richly dight," in which may be traced the
true legend of the life, miracles, and martyrdom of
the Virgin martyr, S. Barbe. The chief lion of
Moncontour is the miracle-working statue of S.
Mathurin, patron saint of horses and cattle. A few
years ago it was the custom to bring the cattle,
consecrated to him, into church on his ffite day,
and make them kiss his shrine. The animals thus
set apart were redeemed for a large sum of money,
and being taken back to their homes were supposed
to convey good luck and immunity from diseases to
the whole farm-yard.
The "Pardon" is still held every year, on Whit
Monday, with great pomp: and should if possible
be visited. On the fftte day, the streets of the
town are lined with white sheets, covered over with
the little "S. Mathurins" for sale, i.e. a little leaden
image of the saint appended to a bunch of artificial
flowers, blest by the priest and endowed with
miraculous powers, for the sum of one franc. The
service in the church consists of lighting up an
innumerable quantity of tall wax candles, and
much braying of the ophlcleidc, and marching
round of the pilgrims. The great attraction, how-
ever, is the Breton Ronde, danced on the lawn in
front of the manor house of the Grange, on the
hill opposite the town.
The musicians, with iiniou and bombarde (the
national music), arc set on a platform, and well sup-
plied with drink; and an immense circle is formed
of all classes — lords and ladies, lads and lasses,
gendarmes and soldiers, dames and orisettes, who
all join hands and revolve slowly with a measured
step round the musicians. The derobe'e is also
danced ; but It is a more noisy and romping dance,
whose main feature is that every lady has two
cavaliers, one of whom is always on the watch to
carry her off from the other if he lets go his hold.
Tbs popular Brecon air of Ann hint got U that to
Route 6.]
RKNNKS TO 8. BRIKUC— LOUDBAC.
which the farourite measures are danced. The
words are as follow, to which a French translation
Is subjoined : —
"Ann hlnl foi e va dou,
Ann hini gos 6o sur.
Ann hini iaouank a so koant,
Ann hini got e deos archant,
Ann hini goi e va doua
Ann hini go* to sur.
Ha gaaeonde pa 6 soujan.
Ann hini iaouank a garan !
Ann hini gos e va dona,
Ann hini gos eo sur.
Me ne san morse dar marchad
N4in be gant'hl gwen bouteillad
Ann hini goi e va dons,
Ann hini goi eo sur.
Ann hini gos e dens bern d,
Ann hini iaouank ne deus ket
Ann hini gos e va dous,
Ann hini goi to sur.
Pnnch TrantlatPm.
Cast la vieille qui est mes amours,
Oui, o'est la vieille assurement.
La Jeune est bien plus JoHe,
Mais la vieille a de l'argent,
C'est 1* vieille qui est met amours,
Oui, c'est la vieille assurement.
It eependant lorsque J'y pense,
C'est la Jeune qui fait battre mon ecrar
Bah ! c est la vieille qui est mes amours.
Oui, c'est la vieille assurement.
Je ne vais Jamais au marehe,
Q'uelle ne me donne de quoi boire bouteille
C'est la vieille qui est mes amours,
Oui, c'est la vieille assurement.
La vieille a de grands mulons de ble,
La Jeune, helas 1 n'a rien
Cest la vieille qui est mes amours,
Oui, e'est la vieille assurement."
These gatherings assume a very riotous charac-
ter towards the evening, when the cider and eau de
vie begin to work ; in fact, the religious character
of the meeting is a thin veil for an immense
amount of merry-making and no little profligacy.
The lasses go to them to pick up husbands ; and
those who have money wear rows of buttons or
braid on their jackets for every hundred francs a
year which they possess.
The seething, pushing crowds of the Pardon will
be gladly exchanged for the open country; and
the tourist, after a little refreshment at Vivler's
Hotel, may return by another road, over a fine
undulating eountry, to S. Brieuc ; or, if desirous
of going through the interior of the country, will
follow the Route Nationale, past Fanton, an Eug
lisli farm, Pontgand, where the road crosses the
River Lie", famous for trout, Piougcnast, with a
curious old church and chateau, and so on to
Loude*ac.
On the Pontlvy line of railway, about Imo miles
from the station of St. Jnliende la C6te, is the ^tri-
fled Camp o/Peran, occupying a plat eau of high land
between the Valleys of the Gouct and the Urne,
which it commands. Its form is elliptic, about
420 feet long by 840 broad, and it is surmounted
by a rampart of earth eight feet high, 40 feet
broad at the base, and ten feet broad at its sum-
mit. One half of this rampart is in good condition,
but the remainder has been partly destroyed;
there is, however, no difficulty in tracing it. In
this part of the country it is called "Le Champ
dee Pierres Brulles." There is a Roman road on
the north side of it; some antiquaries In I860,
discovered that this rampart enclosed two walls,
each three feet thick, and having between them a
space of five feet, which was filled up with scorlte
and vitrified matter; the result of a fire of great
i ntensity. A liquid matter had run over the
masonry and covered it with a hard vitrified
glaze, which was generally found on the upper
part of the parapet; in the lower parts where
fusion had taken place, it had formed a species of
pudding stone. All the stones about here bear the
traces of fusion. Roman bricks and a coin of
Germanlcus were found on the surface, which led
them to form the opinion that this Gamp existed
prior to the Roman occupation. There are several
megalithic remains in the neighbourhood. A
"Grotte auxFe~es" near the fountain of Candio; a
cromlech at the farm of Touches Budes; a great
tumulus in the forest of Pleudran ; also the pretty
Ch&teau of CreTault, of the 16th century.
L>OUd6aC (Stat.), a dull country town, of 5,913
Inhabitants, may be reached by rail, via S. Brieuc
(pago 70) and Pontivy. There is a tolerable Hotel
here(De France); with the usual amount of officials,
<fec, as it is a sous-prefecture. The church is a
very heavy looking, tasteless building. A good road
lends from Louddac, over a wild and picturesque
country, across the landes of the Monoz, towards
Carhalx. Among the woods of beech and chest
nut will be seen the smoke from the fires of the
charcoal burners, or sabotiert, who manuf actum
rl
68
BKADBHAir*S nirTAJTY.
[Bottte 6.
the wooden shoes of the oamnirj. They biro
plot of wood land, sad cat down the trees ;
on the clearing, or nnder rude hats, may be seen
men, women, and children, ragged and grim y, all
buy as bees, some carrying wood, others boring
the hollow part with angers, others trimming the
sabot* into a captivating shape, or hardening them
over the fames of a green wood fire. There are
stags, wolves, badgers, and foxes in the Forest
of IiOnd^*". Correspondence from Loodeac to
Mar, Goaree, and Rostrenen.
ft. filTldnr, • primitive Tillage, on the banks
of the Oast, has a remartralily pretty church, with
porch and grotesque earrings. The
, in front of the church, is also a carton* sped-
mee of' Breton art.
mfmr is a romantically sttaated village, quite on
the wilds, bat with no particular object of interest.
Heat comas fl e ara c, a poverty stricken and dirty
Tillage, on the River Salon, which here joins the
Buret; vary 8*» ****K™*J behad here. BOfl-
tl Blilal i* * larger village, also within reach of
gt)od fishing. It has a tolerable /aa (fox Brittany),
Da la Foste ; bat in these part* the aceom-
BMdatioauvaryrada,andthehooaeafarfrom clean.
ThaChnrch of Eostranen is ugiy, being of the ltth
to the 16th century. Oatside the town is a carious
Chapel (1), on the wall of which is sculptured the
passion of Our Lord, in high relief. Diligences
oattytoQaintin- Correspondence daily to Loudeac,
«t»s-m., ft francs; Goingampat 1 pjn., passing
through 8. Nicholas da Pelem; Lanrivain where
there is a calvaire), and Bourbriac,5f. 50c; Car
baix at *J0 a.m., 2L fiOo* to Qaintin, via Corlay,
At Glomel (gid, coal) are some fine lakes, con-
taming pike- The great canal between Brest and
tiantes runs alongside of the road, and in the bills
are extensive reservoirs to keep up the supply of
water.
The Church of Le Moustoir (r) is a very pretty
m trf n** of a Breton parish church. It will often
surprise the tourist to see such elaborately orna-
mented buildings in the midst of such a scantily
populated and uncivilised country. A little road-
aide chapel (Oi dedicated to 8. Eloi, exhibits to
the pass it by some astonishingly barbarous images
of Saints. 8. Eloi is the patron of horseflesh, and
is
animal, by
of the other
a qaadrupedal or rather tripedal
supposed to be a horse. Many
are artistically "vary pre-
'" I
«»»*«i<y lies within the d e paitai e n t of Flnis-
terre. B+Ui: DemTbardT Aa t cigaa. Its square
church tower is a prominent object for a long
distance, bat it has little to boast of architecturally.
Its name is ■■pposnd to be derived from far, the
Breton for castle, and Akm, the wicked daughter of
King Grallon, whom the legend makes responsible
for the sabmersma of the dry of Ys, as a punish-
ment for her irregularities; bat It is equally likely
that the name signifies "four roads,*' (c/. Carfax).
It is a very primitive and thoroughly Breton town
— a collection of low, mean houses, grouped round
a large, ugly church. Good trout fishing may be
obtained in the neighbourhood. A little way out
of the town there is a structure, said to be the
remains of a Roman Aqueduct; great numbers of
Roman buildings have bean brought to light in
this neighbourhood, and a Raman road is easily
traced in going towards Gildas.
The principal object of interest is the statue of
La Tear d^snereue, by Ifcarochetti, in the market
place. He was born here In 1743, and died M au
champ fasaueur" at the Battle of Neuburg, June
37th, 1900. He was a brave and conscientious
soldier, and from his steadily refusing promotion
he was known in Napoleon's time as "Is premier
aremadierdela /raanr." ^Tohonoaraismemory,"
says Washington Irving, "bis place was always
retained in the regiment in which he preferred to
remain to receiving promotion, and whenever the
regiment was mustered the name of La Tour
d'Auvergne was called out first, and the reply was,
' Dead on the field of honour.' " On the base of
the statue are sculptured representations of his
exploits with this legend: —
" Olui qui BMPrt dant una IntU sserse,
Ttoot* poar le repo* vb* pstarte.
Heme tor U tern Atzmogfcve. '
Carhaix was in the olden times "a good town
with a strong castle.*' It was the scene of a battle
between Richard Corar de Lion and the seigneurs
of Brittany, who had taken up arms to vindicate
the rights of Constance, Duchess of Brittany,
mother of Prince Arthur, whom Richard had im-
prisoned, 1197. The castle was taken 'by the Do
Boute6.]
REMNXfl TO S. BBLKUC — CABHAIX — QUINTIN.
69
Monifort party in 1341, but wrested from them by
Duguesclin. Large cattle fairs are held here, and
the dresses of the peasants on market days are a
curious study. The immense hats, tight canvas
breeches, embroidered gaiters, broad leather belts,
and long hair, make up a singular costume. The
"jMM-tas" (or knobstick, literally head down) and
short pipe are invariable accessories.
In the church porch may be seen the curious
little doghouses in which the pious Bretons exhibit
the skulls of their parents and other relatives,
labelled with their names. Correspondance daily
to Quimperle', passing through Gourin and Le
Fsottfe't at 10 p.m., It. 30c.; Rostrenen at 5 a.m.,
2f. 60c ; Chateaulin, passing through Chatean-
neuf da Faou and Fleyben at 8 a.m., 5f. 20c;
Huelgogt at 2-30 p.m. ; Gaingamp, passing through
Cftllac, at 11-15 a.m., *f. Rail to Morlaix (p. 73).
Several other roads lead to Carhaix, vis.: —
(a) From S. Brieuc, a wild mountain road, through
Quintin, with a fine ducal chateau; and Corlay.
Qulntin (Stat.)— population, 8,186; Hotels:
Grande Maison and Du Commerce— is situated on
the banks of the River Goue*t, in a species of amphi-
theatre, being surrounded by hill9, with a lake
below it; the locality is most picturesque, and it is
well wooded ; the streets are narrow, crooked, and
ill paved. There are many curious houses here of
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries ; one bears
the date of 1564. Its chief industry is the manu-
facture of sail cloth and coarse linen.
Qulntin is a station on the line from Pontivy to
S. Brieuc.
The Church of Notre Dame, founded in 1406,
contains a life-slzti silver bust of St. Thurian,
mitred, having some relics under a glass set in
the breast; b\tt the most precious relic in this
Church is the tosh cfthe Virgin Mary, said to have
been brought from Jerusalem in 1248, by Geoffroy
the First, Count of Qulntin. It is a piece of net
work of white thread; and it was formerly the
custom for the clergy to carry it with great
ceremony to women about to be confined, and to
pass it round their waist to obtain for them a
happy deliverance. It is now kept in a golden
relUiiiftire, and is easily seen through the glass
which encloses it. In 1600, the vestry of this
church was completely destroyed by a fixe, which
melted the church plate and the metal of the
building. It is gravely asserted here that, three
days after the conflagration, the sash of the
Virgin, which had been kept in the vestry, was
found amongst the ashes; it had been enclosed in
three wrappers and placed in an iron bound box,
which had been consumed, yet the relic was
unhurt, one end of it being slightly singed. There
is a curious ossuary, or reliquaire, in the church-
yard, erected on the site of the old church; it is of
the seventeenth century.
The town of Quintin was formerly a fortifie4
quadrilateral, having four gates; the remains of
one of these (Porte Neuve) may be seen near the
Church; the rest have disappeared. This place
capitulated to a division of 1,500 Chouans from
Quiberon, on the 17th July, 1705; they emerged
from the forest of Lorges at daylight, and took
the town by surprise, the republican garrison
being only two companies of infantry and a
detachment of cavalry.
Near the railway station are the remains (one
wing) of the Chateau of Quintin, built m 1662 by
the brother of Marshal Turenne ; its architecture
resembles that of the Palace of the Luxembouig ;
the buildings on the north side of the court v, ere
constructed in 1775 by the Vicomte de Choiseul.
It contains some good Gobelins tapestry, having
on it the arms of France and Navarre; the subjects
represented are the carrying away of Proserpine,
Phoebus guiding the chariot of the Sun, and
Neptune rising from the sea. This Chateau also
contains a gallery of paintings of the family of
Lorges, amongst which is one of Louis de Durfort,
or Duras, Earl of Faversham, captain of the Guards
of James II. of England ; and another of Choiseul,
the minister to Louis XV. There are also four
allegorical paintings of Madame de Pompadour,
whose favour this minister had succeeded in
obtaining. Some of the paintings are of no great
historical value.
A diligence from here to Rostrenen daily, passing
through Corlay; and another from Corlay to
Goarec. Corlay (Hotel: Thierry) is an aboriginal
village, celebrated for its horse fair, and especially
for a breed of ponies whioh are much valued.
(*) From Guingamp, over a similarly hilly road,
through Callac,* poor town, but with a oomfoctahld.
70
BBADSHAW 8 BftlTTAKY.
[Route 7.
h»n (De Brctagne), good fishing handy, in the
River Hierre. Remains of what is called a Roman
aquaduct between Callac and Carhaix.
(c) From Morlaix. over a still wilder country;
also from Landivisiau, Chateaulin, Qaimpcr, and
Lorient, partly by rail.
ROUTE VI— Continued.
Prom Lamballeto 8. Brieuc byrail,past Yffiniae,
a straggling village, from which is obtained a fine
view of the Bay of 8. Brieuc, across an open
country, to
8. Brieuc (Stat) — Buffet. Hotels: Croix
Blanche (good); de France (good); Croix Rouge.
Chief town of the Cotes-du-Nord. Population,
10,948. A large, well-built town, with many
churches and a very large proportion of convents
and religious houses. Change for Pontivy line and
Auray. There is a v»ry fine promenade and public
garden, in the middle of which is the Palais de Jus-
tice, a handsome granite building. The new church
is a very chaste edifice ; there is a Baptist Mission.
A few English are resident here.
8. Brieuc is said to have been an English mis-
sionary, who crossed over in the fifth century,
and erected a hermitage for himself on the spot
where the town now stands, and where he per-
formed miracles. The Cathedral dates from the
thirteenth and fifteenth centuries, and was re-
stored in the eighteenth; it is an ugly edifice,
and is surrounded by mean houses, which are
built up against its walls ; the interior has
been whitewashed, and is badly kept. There
are eight tombs in it, having recumbent figures,
chisfly of bishops. An omnibus for Binic, Pon-
trieux, 8t Quai, and Paimpol leaves the Hotel
de France daily at 7-30 a.m. (fare, 5 francs), and
returns the same evening. A steamer sometimes
leaves Jersey for St. Brieuc on Mondays; returning
to the Channel Islands on Tuesdays, starting from
Port Legrle, 1 J mile from 8. Brieuc.
PortZleUX is now much frequented in the
bathing season. HoMs: Du Talus; De la Plage.
Paimpol, Portrieux, and Binic have each artificial
harbours, and a trade with the Channel Islands,
which they supply with cattle. A sailing cutter
occasionally leaves Binic (Hotel de Bretagne) for
Jersey in the afternoon; 5 francs. The ships be-
longing to St. Brieuc engaged in the cod fishing as-
semble at Portrieux, and sail away together with
great ceremonies and firing of cannon. Those en-
gaged in the Iceland fisheries do the same from
Paimpol. Three miles west of Binic, at Lantic, is
the handsome Gothie Chapel of Notre Dame de
la Cour, which has been compared to the Sainte
Chapellc at Paris; both were in fact built by the
same architect, Re'ne' de Montrieul.
The valley of the River Gouet, over which the
railway passes by a handsome viaduct, is very
picturesque. It opens out into the small port of
Legue*. Further to the north, on the summit of
Oesson Point, are the ruins of Cesson Tower,
which Henry IV. attempted to blow up after
the Wars of the League. There are several small
ports along the cast side of the Bay of S. Brieuc*
viz.: Dahouet, Pleneuf, and Erquy, difficult of
access by sea and land, but resorted to for sea
bathing. The last is said to have been the
Roman station of Rheginea. A large trade is car-
ried on from 8. Brieuc to Jersey in butter, eggs, <tc.
From 8. Brieuc a rail to Pontivy, Loude*ae,
and Auray (page 107) Is now open, via Quint in
and Uzel.
ROUTE VII.
8. BRIEUC TO MORLAIX,
By the coast.
(For the rail, see Route IX.)
A carriage should be hired to Paimpol. About i»
mile off the road is the curious Temple or Church
of Lanleff. It is a singular ruin, consisting of an
inner circular building, with twelve arches, sur-
rounded by an outer colonnade, also circular. The
inner building is 36 feet in diameter; the outer
49 feet. Each circle is 3 feet thick, and the distance
between them is 10 feet, making the total diameter
68 feet. There was a fine yew tree in the centre
some years ago, but it has been cut down.
Some consider the church to be an ancient Roman
temple, but the architecture is plainly of later date
(prabably ef the 10th or II th century \ and the
Route 7.] I. BBIKUC TO MORLAIX — PAIMPOL — TRKGUIER — LANKION.
-1
number of the arches corresponding with the number
of our Lord's Apostles, corroborates the view of its
being an early Christian church. It is most likely
one of the Round Churches built by the Templars,
who took for their model the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre at Jerusalem, of which serersl are still
in France, and three in England. It stands in the
village.
Paimpol may be reached by the a road through
Lanrollon, or by Plouha and / PontrleuX t a port
8 miles from the sea side, and a picturesque village
of 2.038 Inhabitant*, on the Trieux. A line was
opened in 1894 from Guingamp (p. 82) to Paimpol.
Paimpol (population, 2,218, among them a few
English residents; the Hotel Gicquel is tolerably
clean, and moderate in charges) is very prettily
situated in a deep bay, between the high points
of Plouztfe and La Trinlte*. There is but little
water in the port at neap tides, but a large number
of coasting vessels trade with it from Jersey. A
very pretty ruin near Paimpol, called Abbey
Beavport, stands on the sea shore, to the east.
Its foundation is attributed to Alain d'Avaugour,
about the year 1269, but its beautiful proportions
and pointed style of architecture denote a some-
what later date.
Off Paimpol lies He Bre*hat, a barren, rocky
place, static male/Ida carini*, but rendered illus-
trious by the scientific researches of Monsieur
Quatrefages, who resided on it for several months
to study the molluscs, with which it abounds.
Correspondences from Paimpol, daily, to St.
Brieuc, passing through Portrieux, Etables and
Binic, at 11-80 a.m., 6f.; to Tre*guier at 11 a.m.,
2f . 20 cents, and thence on to Lannion.
The Tregorrais, or peninsula of Trlguier, Is the
most fertile and beautiful part of Brittnny. The
language of the people is more alien to the Welsh
than that of Finlstere. The country abounds
with fertile valleys, watered by fine streams;
the Leff, Trieux, Jaudy, Qulndy, and Quer, all
abounding in trout, and many producing salmon.
It is a very undulating aeeidente country, and Is
also full of objects of historical Interest.
At Le*»ardrleux (vide Vocabulary), the River
Trieux Is crossed by a fine suspension bridge of
wire, 108 feet above low water mark. It is rather
sensational to cross it in a carriage, m it sways
about with the wind, and deflects alarmingly as
the carriage passes over it. The view down the
Trieux is very fine. A boat should be hired here
to visit the ruined Castle of Roche Jagu\ it is about
2 miles up the Trieux, standing on a wooded
eminence, and beautifully ivy-grown. Part of it is
restored, and sometimes inhabited by English
families.
Further on, another smaller suspension bridge
leads into the old cathedral city of
Tr^gUier.— Population, 2,768. The Hotel de
France, though not of inviting exterior, is clean
and comfortable. Few towns in Brittany are so
pleasantly situated as this. The views seaward and
landward are very lovely, and the fine old church
with its "docker aujour" or open-work spire, gives
an ecclesiastical character to the place. The south
and west porches of the church are very fine, and
Inside are beautiful carvings. The cloisters are
very beautiful, though in a sad state of dirt and
decay. Trrf guler possesses a few English residents,
who come here for the sporting. It has also a
yacht agent, who is ready to oblige English
visitors. Oyster culture Is most successfully
carried on here. Twenty millions are exported
annually, a large portion of them going to Belgium
(it is laid) to be there converted into Ostend
oysters.
An omnibus runs daily from Treguler to Lannion.
at 6 p.m., 2 francs 20 cents.
From Tre'guler should be visited La Rodte Derrien,
a small village of 1,368 inhabitants with a ruined
castle famous In Breton annals.
It was the scene of Innumerable conflicts during
the War of the Succession. Charles dc Blols laid
siege to It, but before he could reduce it De Mont-
fort's soldiers attacked him with a fre*h English
army, at early dawn, and routed him, June 18th,
1347. De Blols was taken prisoner by Sir Thomas
Dagwortli. or Kdgeworth, and Duch&tcl. He
was ransomed for 100,000 crowns in 1856.
Lannion (Stat.), change at Plouarct on the
main Une.— Motels: Del'Europe, fair and clean;
de France. A pretty and clean town of 6,002 in-
habitants, situated on the banks of the fine River
Guer. It is accessible to vessels of light draught.
The old houses, with overhanging er-
x%
BBADSHAw's BBITTAffY.
[Route 7.
timber built into the walls, are very carious. The
church is somewhat heavy, but the old church of
BreleVenoz, at the top of the hill, is a fine piece of
architecture, 12th to 16th century, crypt, 11th
century, and the view from the churchyard
magnificent. \ great Fair is held hero annually
on St. Michael's Day (29th September) and the
two following days, when all the inhabitants of
the surrounding country attend, so that the town
and the promenade teem with them. All are
well, and some are richly, dressed; they are a fine
race, well-made, with dark hair and eyes; they
dance in the afternoon on the quays by the river-
side, where hundreds of couples may be seen
dancing the Ronde and the De'robe'e^ the musicians
being perched on casks. It is an interesting
sight ; they enjoy themselves thoroughly, and
the greatest decorum is observed. At 5 p.m. the
dancing ceases, and they all return to their homes.
Correspondanccs daily from Lannion to Mor-
laix, via Plostin and Lanmeur, at 4 p.m.,
4 francs ; to Perros Quirec at 8-80 a.m., 50 cents;
returning next day at 8 a.m ; to Tre*guier at
4 p.m., except Sundays ; to Paimpol at 3-15 p.m.,
4 francs.
If time will permit, the coast line should be
followed from Trc'guier round to Lannion. The
coast scenery about Perros Quirec is very fine.
The name Guirec is said to have been derived from
an old Breton King, Guerec, or Erech, a.d. 404.
There is a snug little port here, and good sea
bathing. This part of the coast has many romantic
legends attached to it. Breton traditions identify
it with the place where King Arthur held his
court, and many of the peasants still believe he
lies entranced in the Island of Agalon, or Avalon,
off Perros. There is a fair second-class Hotel (Des
Bains), at Perros Guirec, 5 francs a day. The
are much weather worn. There axe several Cheese-
wrings about this district. Carriages may be hired
for this excursion at Lannion for 15 francs.
To the north of Lannion, on the road to PlOO-
meTir, at a distance of nearly 4 miles, is the fine
menhir of Plouarzel, 24 feet high and 10 feet
broad at its base, computed to weigh $0 tons.
It is surmounted by a stone cross, and has sculp-
tured on the upper part of one of its sides the
figure of a woman with a cock above her head, and
the sun and moon on either side of her; at her feet
there is a figure of the miracle of S. Veronica,
supported by the emblems of the Passion, below
which is a crucifix, and at its foot a moon.
It is difficult to imagine how, in the earliest times
in Brittany, monoliths of this size were quarried
and transported.
Seen from the heights above Tregastel, where
many Druidical remains and.rocking-stones attest
the interest which once attached to the locality,
the Seven Islands have a grand, mysterious, old-
world look, but their climate scarcely tallies with
" the island Taller of Avillion,
Where falls not hail or rain, or any snow,
Nor ever wind blows loudly."- Tetotpion.
for it is one of the stormiest parts of the coast. A
walk up the river from Lannion will bring the
tourist to the old ruined Castle of Coetfrec (Coet,
wood ; frec % roosting place for birds), whose lofty
towers, and curtain walls .are fast crumbling to
dust ; and 4 miles further up to the noble pile of
TonqueddC (Tonqc y the sound of iron struck; or
dun, eddying pools, and guiddi brambles). This
grand old ruin, styled the " Pierref onds of
Brittany," stands at the junction of two rivers,
and must have been a very strong fortress in the
old feudal times. The moats and gateways are in
good preservation. The view from the walls is
magnificent. Like the rest of the fortresses in
church Is built of red pudding stone, a species of | this part it was dismantled by the King of France
'granite, very Abundant in the locality. The
tourist should walk from there to Ploumanach, and
on to S. Anne Roho ; near the chapel of the latter
placo is the rooking stone of Cot Cattel. It is
very striking to sco the manner in which the huge
blocks of granite have been thrown and heaped up
one on top of another all along the coast line,
many of them weighing several hundred tons; all
after the cession of Brittany. Tonquedec was
taken and razed to the ground in 1395, by Duke
John IV ; it was rebuilt after, his death in 1399,
daring the reign of Henry IV.; and was dismantled
by Richelieu.
The river may be followed up through a fine
country to3elle-Isle-en~Terre, where there is a good
Inn (Hotel aaiOuest), and excellent fishing.
Kouie 7.]
The coast line from Lannion is somewhat dreary;
but at S. Michel Will be seen a fine sandy beach,
where, according to Breton saint-lore, a horrible
dragon, which ravaged the country, was slain, by
the united efforts of King Arthur and his cousin, S.
Effiam, who arrived here from Ireland at the nick of
time. He tapped the fountain, which runs down
into the sea to quench Arthur's thirst, and dashing
some e.f the holy water into the dragon's mouth sent
him yelling and spitting fire into the depths of the
sea. Here again the victory of the dragon conse-
crates the locality to S. Michel. The overthrow of
Paganism by Christianity is probably at the bottom
of all these legends.
At Pontmenon, near Flestein, the Donron is
passed, a little stream which separates Cdtes du
Nord from Finistere.
The small rill age of Lanmtur boasts of a church
of great antiquity, with a sacred Fountain, held in
high estimation. This fountain has a legend
attached to it; its spring is in the crypt, and it is
believed that it will, on some Trinity Sunday,
suddenly overflow and destroy the church; in
consequence of which superstition, as also to pre-
vent the inhabitants from being, drowned, high
mass is on Trinity Sunday invariably celebrated
in the Chapel of Kernitron.
If the tourist is in this part near thefestival of
S. John, June 24th, he should visit the Church of 8.
Jean-du-doigt, on tha coast to the north of Lan-
meur. Itisaverycuriousandancientchurch,andthe
scene of one of those curious gatherings called pil-
grimages which we have described. (Introduction.)
At this Pardon a very unusual effect is produced
by a large bonfire, crowned with flowers, which
is lighted by a dragon, who descends from the
top of the church tower and sets fire to it, and
afterwards re-ascends. As soon as it has been
ignited a general discharge of fire-arms takes
place, the drums beat, incense is burned, the
smoke of which mixes with that of the powder
and of the bonfire, and it is believed ascends to
heaven, the clergy at the same time intoning the
hymn "Du Saint Doigt."
According to the legend attached to it, it owes
its origin to the following miracle;—
A young Breton, native of Plougasnou, was
8. BRISUC TO MOULA1X — MOBLAIX.
xa
fighting in the ranks of the French against the
English, in the time of Joan of Arc, and desiring to
visit his friends was offering his vows at the shrine
of S. John, in Normandy, where were the fingers
of the Baptist brought by S. Thecla from Palestine.
Suddenly he felt himself nolens volens on his way
home, impelled by some mysterious agency. As he
went on the trees bowed to him, the village bells
rang out of their own accord, and all the people
came out to look at him, taking him for a sorcerer.
Still he went on till he arrived at the chapel of his
parish, then dedicated to S. Meriadec, whither he
felt himself impelled, and there kneeling before the
altar, he saw fly. out from his coat sleeve the pre-
cious relic, the fingers of S. John, which he had
unconsciously carried with him from Normandy.
Such a story would sound rather "fishy" before a
court if set up as a defence for petty larceny ; but
in this case it held good as a miracle, and gave rise
to the church and pilgrimage of " S. John' s finger."
The cemetery is entered by a Gothic archway.
There is here an elegant fountain of lead, where
pilgrims may daily be seen at their devotions ; the
figures are very good, the whole being surmounted
by one of the Heavenly Father. It is in the
Renaissance style, and is said to have been a gift
from the Duchess Anne.
A rocky road conducts the tourist by a precipi-
tous descent into
MorlalZ (Stat)— Population, 16,300. Hotels:
De Provence (best); de l 1 Europe, good; des
Voyageurs. An interesting town situated on the
banks of the river of the same name, which is
deep enough to admit large vessels up to the Quays,
in the centre of the town. It is picturesquely
situated, the houses nestling under steep rocks with
terraced gardens so close behind them that, as
they say, the cabbages jump "dujardin aupot-au*
feu." Most of the houses in the streets below,
are very old and quaint like those of Dinan, with
overhanging storeys on wooden pillars, which are
grotesquely carved with heads of saints or demons.
Many of the larger houses are also richly orna-
mented. The more modern part of the town con-
sists of solid and handsome houses.
There are several churches and convents here,
and pleasant promenades laid out down the bank
of the river. The paving of the town generally is
74
BRAD8HAW 8 BRITTAKT.
[Route 8.
execrable. Notice the Chateau de Taureau, and
the splendid Viaduct orer the river, on doable
arches. Dimensions of the Viaduct : length, 920
feet; height, 208 feet; there are fifteen upper and
nine tower arches, of 60 feet and 45 feet span
respectively.
The manufacture of tobacco is largely carried
on here; 1,600 women being employed in the
Government factory. It has also a considerable
export trade in cattle and butter.
A motley population from the interior may be
seen here on market days, clad in the Breton
costumes; the long hair of the men and the quaint
laced caps of the women will be especially re-
marked.
The Fontaine ties Anglais commemorates the spot
where a large body of English were cut off and
massacred, after having effected a successful
descent upon the coast in 1522. There is a pleasant
shady promenade, planted with trees, on the right
bank; it is qnite a mile long, and is called
"Cours de Beaumont."
Emlle Souvestre was born here, and pays many
graceful tributes to his sol natal. He relates that
Mary Queen of Scots landed here to receive the
titles of Queen and wife, and was met by the Duke
de Rohan and many other Breton nobles. It is re-
corded that as the brilliant cortege swept over the
bridge, it cracked under the weight of so much
beauty and bravery, and on the first panic the cry
of " treachery" arose; but De Rohan stilled the
terror-stricken throng, by crying out in words
which wo may be sure are not forgotten in
Brittany "Jamais Breton ne fit trahison."
A Corrcspondance, daily, to Lannion, via
Lanmeur and Plestin, at 10-80 p.m., 4 francs. A
carriage (12 francs) will have to be hired if
it is wished to visit Guiralliau. Rail to Morlaix, in
2 hours, via HuelgoeL Boats can be hired to go
to the Chateau de Taurau ; it will be reached in
three-quarters of an hour if the wind is fair.
A carriage, 5 francs ; distance, 5 kils. (8 miles).
A carriage and pair of horses to visit both S. Pol
and Roscoff, 20 francs. Excursions may be made
to S. The'gonnec (Routo IX.), and to Guimiliau
Calvary, on the road to Huelgoe*t. The Calvary
is a beautifully sculptured piece of masonry
in the church-yard. The figures on it represent
various scenes in the life of our Saviour and
are almost of life size. The material is granite,
and some idea may be formed from this work of
art with what zeal and patience the old Bretons
laboured in the cause of the Church. The church
is of the 16th century architecture; the south
porch of Renaissance ; the interior is remarkable
for its handsome wood carvings, the pulpit, organ
loft, and especially its baptistry, 80 feet high.
The canopy over the font is supported by twisted
columns, richly carved, representing vine leaves
and grapes ; it bears the date 1685. The front of
the organ loft is divided in three pannels, the
centre representing King David, the others S.
Cecilia and a triumphal march. There is a tri-
umphal arch in the cemetery, but inferior to that
of 8. The'gonnec; the re*llqualre is quite filled
with the little dog kennels in which the Bretons
delight to preserve the skulls of their ancestors.
EOUTE VIII.
MORLAIX TO BREST,
By the sea coast.
(For the Rail see Route IX.)
By a very steep ascent out of Morlaix, and along
a very trying road, the tourist must go viho
wishes to visit the Llonnais, rich in ecclesiastical
architecture. Eight kils. (5 miles) N. of Morlaix,
on the road to S. Pol de Lion, is situated the
village of Penze's, at which place two important
fairs are held annually on the 29th of September;
the first one is for horses, and is one of the best
attended. in Brittany; the second is for marriage*
able girls. To reach this village it is necessary
to cross a bridge, and on that day the
"Pcnnerez," or marriageable girls who have a
do* ry, assemble here, dressed out in their best,
seating themselves on the parapets of the bridge.
It is next to impossible for the young men
to reach the fair without crossing this bridge,
and passing between the two rows of pretty,
laughing girls; this they do with a certain
gravity of demeanour. Occasionally one of them
is seen to approach and offer his hand to one of the
girls to assist her to get down from her seat; it is
Route 8.]
MORLAZX TO BRK8T — B. POL DB LKOK.
understood by this act that his heart has been
touched and that he has selected her for his wife ;
after a few moments' conrersation between them
they are joined by the parents; matters are
arranged, and the affair Is clenched by the usual
practice of striking the palms of the hands
together. It is said that it has rarely happened
that one of these engagements has been broken ;
though it is right to add that in some eves the
matter has been pre-arranged by the young
couple, but that the bridge of "PenaeV is con-
sidered by them as the proper place for ratifying
their promises.
The first town of any note is 8. Pol de Leon
(Stat), the Cathedral of which, dedicated to S.
Pau', is one of the finest in Brittany. Hotels : De
France; da Cheval Blanc. The lofty spires of
S. Pol are risible for many miles round by land
or sea. The highest is the spire of Kreisker, a
wonderfully slender shaft, literally a fleche, shot
into the sky. The base seems rery small, but the
lancet windows and delicate tracery give it an
air of great elegance. The Cathedral also has lofty
spires of open work and lancet windows, and many
interesting studies for any one fond of church
architecture. It dates from three periods: part of
the north transept is Roman ; the nave, side porch,
and the spires are of the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries; the choir was reconstructed in 1431.
The Norman ogival style pervades throughout the
building; the stalls date from 1512. From behind
the high altar there rises a large wooden bishop's
rochet, from which is suspended a pyx contain-
ing the sacrament wafers. There are several
mutilated tombs having recumbent figures on
them ; amongst the number that of the last Bishop
of Leon, who died, an e'migre', in London, 1806,
and whose remains were transferred to the Cathe-
dral in 1866. The south transept has a very fine
rose window; above this handsome rose window
there is on the outside a tmall door, or window,
having a gallery btfore it nhich is called "La
Fenetre de rexcommunication," owing to its
having been formerly used for that purpose.
In a rtliquaire in this cathedral is an old Bell,
quadrangular in shape; it is said to have belonged
to 8. Paul; it is solemnly brought out on tho
days of the grand processions, an.l rung (by
striking it with a hammer) over the pilgrims 1
heads, in the belief that it will preserve them
from diseases of the head and ears. In one
of the Chapels on the south side, a remarkable
symbol of the Trinity is painted on the ceiling ;
it is a figure composed of three heads joined, hav-
ing only three eyes ; bat they are placed in such
a manner, that whichever way it is looked at, it
presents a complete face; above it is a scroll hav-
ing the Breton words
"Ma-Douez" (My God)
painted in Gothic characters;
!by 1
also another below it having the word
14 Arabat " (you must not.)
The Bell is kept in this Chapel. Close to the steps
of the altar there is a black slab, mutilated in the
Revolution, indieating the spot where the Saint
was buried, a.d. 594.
The tomb of Conan Meriadec, the Welsh Prince,
near it, was also removed; though a stone coffin,
placed near the walls, is pointed out as the
tomb (the carvings on it are of the roughest des-
cription). This seems, however, to be a disputed
point, as a stone coffin is shown in the church-
yard of Noyal Pontivy having a resting place
for the head hollowed out in it, which is known
in that district by the name of u Le tombeau de
8. Mlriadec" The reputed tomb of Meriadec
has been converted into a benitfer; it will
appear a strange conversion, and probably some
may be disposed to think that it is used for baptism
by immersion, but the explanation is a r
78
BKADSIIAW'8 BSITTAHT.
[Route S.
its walls the Anns of Brittany, m alio those of
some of the ecclesiastical dignitaries who formerly
resided there, is now attached to a farm-house.
The sacred spring rises under the high altar, and
trickles out through the wall into an external
reserroir, which formerly had a stone canopy over
it. This spring is held in grejtt veneration by the
pilgrims, who strip their persons and wash their
bodies with the water, regardless of any persons
that may be near them. The pnlpit is modern,
and has carved on its panels the legend of the
Folgoet.
It is said that, in the ornamentation of this
and other churches, every parishioner, as well as
•very workman, designed and executed some bit
of earring, and worked out on stone his favourite
bit of scripture history, -or Catholic tradition.
Time would fall us to enter into a description
of all the details of this wonderful piece of
architecture.
There are many other churches in this neigh-
bourhood of great beauty, almost gems of
architecture, which must have cost millions of
francs, and employed thousands of hands in their
erection. Such are S. Jean-du-doigt, S. Thegon-
nec, Guimiliau, La Martyre, S. Pol de Leon, Lan-
bader, and Lampaul, all wonderful for their
elaborate decorations, and especially from the
contrast they afford to the poverty and igno-
rance, and dirt, around them.
The Kersanton stone, of which they are mostly
built, comes from quarries near Brest ; also from
Quelern and Le Faou. It is soft when quarried,
and easily sculptured, and is of a steel grey colour,
but by exposure to the weather it becomes green,
and eventually assumes the hardness and the
colour of bronze.
The country north of Lesneven, about Goulven,
Plouneour-Trez, and Drignogan, was formerly
covered with Celtic or Megalithicmonuinents,which
have nearly all disappeared; indeed, even within
the last two years two rocking stones and a large
dolmen have been blasted for building purposes.
There yet remains a dolmen at Goulven, with a
▼cry fine Menhir, 84 feet high, at Brignogan ; it is
named "Men-Marx" (the wonderful stone), and
has a stone cross planted on its top, with another
-4d at its base. The country about here is
wild, and so are its inhabitants, who were with
difficulty converted to Christianity; the communes
of Goulven, Kerlouan, Gaisseny, Plounlour-
Trez, Plouguerneau, and, LandeMa, lying on the
coast, are even yet known as " Bro-ar-Baganed,"
or the land of the Pagans. This part was literally
strewed with Megaliihic stones, most of which
were destroyed by the directions of the clergy,
who found it next to impossible to induce the
inhabitants to abandon their Pagan rites and
ceremonies, which they continued to practise with
such tenacity in connection with these monuments.
The remaining stones were mostly baptised, or had
a cross placed on them.
Brignogan is frequented In the bathing season;
there are two auberges (Baigneurs and Grande
Maison, 5 francs a day.) A diligence runs from
Lesneven during the bathing season, on Sundays
and Thursdays, at 9 a.m.. returning at 6 p.m. ;
If. W cento. The church of Goulven is of the 16th
century, and is worth visiting; the spire is well
proportioned. At the entrance porch will be seen
a large chest, into which the charitable pour barley
as alms for the poor of the parish.
Correspondances daily, from Lesneven to Brest,
at 6 a.m., If. 60 cent, except Sundays and Mon-
days to St. Pol de Leon, through Ploueseat, at
2 p.m., 4f.; to Landernau, at 4 p.m.. If . 50 cents. A
bone cavern was discovered in 1879, at Guisscny,
60 feet long and 12 feet high. Its entrauce faces
the sea. Below a layer of ashes and a rough
stone pavement human bones were foand ; also a
considerable quantity of bones of animals of ex-
tinct species; fragments of Celtic pottery, a stone
hammer, and a celt of polished porphyry.
The character of the country to the west of
Lesneven is generally bare and rocky. The eoast
is cut up into numerous indentations, and bar
harbours, at the mouths of small rivers, such as
Goulven, Correjou, Abervrach, and Aberildut.
The salt blasts of the ocean nip the vegetation,
and bend down the scanty trees, which seem to
cower from the biting west wind.
At Plcmdalmexeau (Hotel Leguen), now accessible
by rail from Brest, is a lofty spire ,* and from the
hill, on which the village stands, will be seen
the steep craggy sides of Ushant, with its con-
spicuous Light-house, and the spire of Lampaul.
Route 8.] MOBLAIX TO BBBST— S. KKNAN— LAN-BIVOABB— BBBST.
79
The inhabitants (3,490) of the Island of Outssant
(or Ushant) hare a bad reputation with their com-
patriots of the mainland. They My, that till rery
lately, they were idolaters, at well aa wreckers
and smugglers. This " ultima Thole, haunted by
ill angels only," has but few visitors, from the
dangerous passage of the "Four," through which
the Atlantic tides race madly, and chafe among
the sunken rocks and dangerous reefs which stud
their iron-bound coast. A steamer to Ushant twice
per week, if the weather is fine.
The naval Battle of Ushant was here fought
between the French and English in 1778.
The coast between Ploudalmestfau and Le Con-
quet is very wild and barren ; but a sunset seen
orer the seething waves of the Atlantic, with
Ushant and Deneguet in the distance, is some-
thing to remember. In one of the fields, near the
Tillage of Larret, there is a colossal menhir (80 f t.\
called Kergadioa.
Before reaching S. Renan, the Plouarzel, called
Menhir Kerloaz, one of the loftiest remaining up-
right, should be risked ; but the tourist had better
see it by daylight, as (independent of the use to
which, according to the guide book, it is put by
the peasant women) it is said to hare a habit of
walking about in the gloaming, and it is " un-
canny" to encounter it.
At S. Renan (now a station on a line from Brest)
refreshment may be obtained before visiting Le
Conqnet on the coast. Hotels: De Brltagne;
du Finiatere. This is the most westerly point of
France : formerly it was a strong fortress. Frois-
sart tells how it was breached and stormed by
Charles de Blois, but retaken the next day by
Sir Walter Manny through the same breach. A
steamer leaves for Ushant three times a week.
A league north of S. Renan is the village of
Lan-RlYOarl, the disused parish cemetery of
which has a Urge space paved with stones of
jvregular forms and edged with black ; and tradi-
tion says that under these stones 7,777 martyrs
were buried. The explanation seems to be that a
great battle took place here in the 6th century,
and the inhabitants being Christians, those who
fell were buried here. The singular number above
mentioned is of course much exaggerated. At the
.«ast end of the cemetery is a pedestal surmounted
by a cross; at the foot of which are seven
large round pebbles. There is a tradition that
St. Henri, having asked alms of the baker of this
place, and being roughly repulsed, he turned his
loaves into the stones here seen. Near the same
pedestal there is a root of an old oak tree.
The faithful, on the days of " pardons," take small
pieces of it away, which they preserve religiously,
believing they will protect their houses from catch-
ing fire. If this plan were effectual, the insurance
companies would soon be ruined; but probably
there are many sceptics.
A windy walk along the storm-beaten cliffs
brings the tourist to the grandly placed ruins of
the Abbey of S. Matthew. This was the first and
last object seen by the sailors entering or quitting
the port of Brest; and the abbey throve well on
the ex-votot of pious mariners.
According to Catholic tradition, the abbey
was founded a.d. 420, when S. Matthew's body
was brought from Egypt ; but, when off the
point, it was found impossible to land it, the
saint intimating to the crew of the ship that
he declined to have his body deposited in a
country where the custom prevailed of selling
into slavery the children of those who could not
pay their taxes. This practice was therefore
abolished; the saint's body was landed, and a
noble abbey built on the spot, which was, how-
ever, destroyed, probably by the English, in 1558.
Visitors will do well before leaving Brest to provide
themselves with a permit to visit the Abbey of
St. Matthew and the Lighthouse, from the Bureau
de la Majorite* GtfneVale, Rue Fautras.
From Le Conquet to Brest, by a barren and
wind-swept route, but commanding magnificent
views of the estuary and harbour.
Brest (Btat)-PopulaUon, 75,854, exclusive of
military. Hotels: Grand Hotel, on the Place Champ
de Bataillc; des Voyageurs, Rue de Siam, good
and moderate, 8 francs per diem, wine included
There are several others-du Grande Monarque'
Provence, de la Bourse, and des Strangers. '
Cab Farts:
Cabs. Course. By hour. ? w n °'
fr * c * ir ' c. fr. tL
2 "ats 1 25 l 7 5 , £
.4 seats 2 2 50
w
80
BRAD8HAW 8 BBITTAKT.
The largest though not the chief town of Finis-
tere, famous for its magnificent harbour, dockyards,
and fortifications. It was in ancient times a
very small place, only a ehdteau fori.
In the thirteenth century it was ceded by its baron
to the D.uke of Brittany, for a hundred Iivres, and
a white hackney to be supplied yearly. During
the Wars of the Succession, it was often taken
and retaken. It was one of the fortresses seized
by De Montf ort, when he claimed the dukedom ;
and hither his countess repaired to collect
forces after her successful sally from Hennebont.
De Montfort made it a very strong castle, bnt,
after the Battle of Auray, ceded it to the English.
The barons attached such importance to the loss
of it, that they said, " West pas due de Bretagne %
qui rCest pas Sire de Brest."— (Daru,) At the fusion
of France and Brittany, in 1375, John de Montfort
laid siege to Brest, to expel the English, who
had been forced to resign all their other possessions
in Brittany ; but they held out, and did not evacuate
H for several years after, when it was given up
for 20,000 pieces of gold. The old castle still exists,
in a modernised state, and is heavily armed.
The view from the summit is very fine.
Many sea fights took place off Brest in the olden
times. In 1512, when the English endeavoured to
recover their possessions, a battle took place,
in which it is recorded that Primauguet, captain of
the Cordellere, 100 guns, lashed his burning ship
to an English one, and both blew up together.
In 1591, the great Spanish fleet, which came to
assist Mercosur, appeased off Brest, but after vainly
endeavouring to land the troops, it was shattered on
the rocks of Le Conquet. A few of the Spaniards
who escaped to shore threw up some fortifications
on tho point now called after them— "Pointedes
Espagnols"—*nA held their position for some
weeks, bnt their defences were carried, and they
were put to the sword.
In 1694, the English expedition, which ravaged
Morlaix, under Admiral Berkeley, made an attack
on Brest; but were roughly bandied, and forced
to retreat.
The narrow entrance into Brest Harbour, called '
Le Ooukt* Is still further obstructed by rocks at
the etftrsarosiund upon every arattabte pdhttstrong
[Route 8.
batteries are erected, which preclude the possi-
bility of forcing an entrance. The immense eootent
of the fortifications may be judged from fee fact
that the harbour is 15 miles long, and its ernes aw,
in almost every part, armed with hsejfy 'cannon,
and every hill top around is crowned <wfcb. forts,
which could shell the harbour and forts below -U
taken. Upwards of 600 pieces of camion «*— *— »*
the entrances of the harbour, and Brest itself is
similarly fortified.
The Bagne for convicts formerly supplied the
labour for these immense works, but of late years
it is abolished. Upwards of 3,000 p riso n ers were
kept here np to 1860, working in gangs, and It was
no uncommon thing for some to escape. Woe
betide the first traveller whom they met in a lonely
place. His murder forthe sake of changing clothes
with the body was certain to be attempted.
To obtain permission to visit the dockyard,
application should be made between 11 and
2 o'clock at the bureau de la Majorlte*, Rue
Foautrae, near the barracks of the "Infanterie
de la Marine ;" foreigners must be recommended
by their consuls and furnished with a passport.
Generally permission is withheld.
The principal objects of interest are the
building docks, cut in the solid Took ; the steam
foundry, naval and mechanical schools, the
Salle d'armes, the hospital, and various
stores; but, unless accompanied by a French
officer, the tourist is likely to see only the
outside of most of the buildings. The iron bridges
which connect the various suburbs with each other
are fine pieces of engineering. A very good view
of the dockyard may be obtained from the Pont
Toumant, the bridge which crosses the creek
at the bottom of the " Rue de Biam," and which
connects it with the suburbs; this bridge is 880
feet long and «5 feet above high water; it is
in two pieces, each of which turns on a pivot
by machinery; the inner ends have counter*
poise weights; the outer ends are secured to
each other by bolts. It is easily opened 'to let
ships of war pass out, and is really a very
fine piece of engineering. The commercial port
at Postreln is protected by a long breakwater.
The Cours Dajot, a long promenade, planted wttn
' Walloons the bay and the
Route 8.]
XORLaIX TO BEB8T — BRKST.
81
harbour; this promenade is shady end agreeable;
it is enlivened by the military bands; there is a
▼ery fine view from it.
Excursion*.— To Flougastel. By rail to Kerhnon
station; then walk to the ferry (4 hour); cross
orer in the ferry boats (5 cents); ascend the hill
opposite to the Rocker de Plougastel; take the road
to the right, it is about half an hour's walk from the
Tillage, in the cemetery of which will be found the
eelebrated Calvaire (Calvary), on which there is
an assemblage of 300 figures cut in Kcrsanton stone.
It is held in great veneration, and has been recently
restored, but is by no means a work of art. Some
of the figures are well executed.
The groups represent the life of our Saviour
from his birth to his resurrection ; those of the
Circumcision, the Flight into Egypt, the Last
Supper, the Washing of Feet, the Temptation,
and Hell, are absurdly grotesque. The most
remarkable group is that of our Saviour's tri-
umphal entry into Jerusalem, where he is pre-
ceded by Bretons in their national costume of
Bragout Brat, playing on the btniou and the
tambourine. This Calvaire was erected in 1G02,
to commemorate a plague which devastated that
district in 1593. A pardon is held here on the
24th of June, on which day steamboats constantly
ply from Brest; the costumes displayed on this
occasion are very interesting. It Is also a " Pardon
des Olscaux." After the mass a large fair of
birds Is held ; they are brought here by the children
in wicker baskets, mide by themselves.
To visit the Ruins of the Abbey of Londevenntc—
By a steamer which leaves the mercantile port
daily at 9 a.m. for Port Launay, from which it
returns at 5-30 pjn. ; one and a half hour on the
road. There is an hotel at Port Launay, where a
decent breakfast can be procured ; it Is here that
the ships of war which are dismantled are kept in
reserve. The Abbey dates from the fifth century ;
the choir is of the fifteenth. Here Ring G ration
was buried, and also S. Guenole*, the founder of the
said abbey.
To Visit the Cavet of Morgat— A steamer leaves
the Commercial Port at 0-30 a m. on Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays, for Le Fret, where
a correspondence meets it, I franc; also on
Sundays ; it returns at 8 p.m., arriving at Brest at
6 o'clock. On arrival an omnibus which is waiting
will convey passengers to Cxozox (Hotel: De
Morgat.) An hour's walk will bring them from
there to the Cavjs, to visit which a guide will
be requisite, who may be obtained, together with
boats, by applying at the hotel. There are three
of these Caves ; two can be entered at low water,
but a boat will be necessary for the third one,
named ''l'Autel," from a rock in its centre.
This grotto is truly beautiful, the rocks in the
interior being tinted in variegated colours; the
entrance is narrow and low, but the vault im-
mediately rises to the height of nearly 40 feet;
the dimensions of this cave are 160 feet long by
50 broad. Carriage from the hotel at Crozon to
Douarnenez, 15 to 20 fr.; to Chateaulin, 15 to 20ft\
To Visit Conquet and the Abbey of S. MaUhteu.
Cost of a private carriage, 15 to 20 francs.
There is a diligence which leaves Brest at 7 am.
and returns at 4 p.m., Ifr. 50c.; two hours and a
half on the road. Breakfast at the Hotel de
Finistere at Kermorvan. North of Le Conquet there
are a Cromlech of upright stones, two dolmens, and
two menhirs; the remains of the Abbey of 8.
Matthieu and the lighthouse are distant about
24 miles from the hotel, an easy walk. A corre-
spondence from Le Conquet to S. Re*nan and Brest.
A steamer to Kelern, touching at Camaret, leaves
at 6-80 a.m. and returns at 4-0 p.m.; Mondays and
Friday s daring the winter months it returns an hour
earlier.
Visitors who wish to make an excursion about
the harbour, or to visit the training ships, oan
hire small steamers at the mercantile port, Qua!
National, at the following rates : whilst steaming,
5 francs an hour; whilst waiting, 2fr. 50c. per hour ;
3fr. 75c. additional has to be paid for lighting the
fires and getting steam up. Sailing boats may be
hired a 10 francs per day, or 3 francs for tbe first
hour, and 2 francs for each succeeding hour and
to carry eight parsons.
Railway to Plabennec and Lannllis; to
Renan and PlOUdalmlxeaU (pages 79 and 78).
Diligence Office at the " Grand Ture,"No. 1, Bus
d' Alger. Diligences run to Plougastel, Le Con-
«2
bsadshaVb bbittaht.
[Route 9.
quet, and Lcsncven. Steamboat Office, Qnat du
Port du Commerce, Poet Office, 5, Ruede Traverse.
Reading Room at Roberts* Library, Rue d*
Algulllon.
Thero arc excursions by steamboats erery Sun-
day, also on f6to days and pardons (weather per-
mitting) ; the bills are published three days pre-
viously; they usually leave at 9-0 a.m. and return
at 8-0 p.m. Return tickets, lfr. 60c. This is new
■the only means of seeing the Chateaulin river.
ROUTE IX.
8. BRIEUC TO BREST,
By Rail, 90 miles.
Shortly after leaving S.BrieuC, a grand viaduct,
190 (eet high, 850 feet long, leads over the river
Gouct, and thence the railway passes through a
pretty country, with glimpses of the sea, to
ChktelaM&xen (SUA*) -Hotel: De France. A
small village of 1,470 inhabitants, offering nothing
remarkable at present, but formerly the site of a
very strong castle, built by Audren, son of Salomon,
a Breton king, a.d. 446. Emile Souvestre has a very
pathetic account in his " Derniers Breton*" of the
destruction of Chatclaudren, by the bursting of a
reservoir on the hills above the town. Since that
event it has been as he described it, a "viUemorte"
Thence by a very pretty undulating country, with
fiuc view of the Menez Hills to the left, to
dQingainp (Stat.) -From (?«»», white; camp,
field. Hotels: Dc France; de l'Ouest. A very
yretty town, situated on the river Trieux.
Rail, opened in 1894, to Paimpol, page 71.
It is not without a history, this old town of dark
granite churches and houses, with its quadrangular
Place, and pleasant rippling streams; and, more-
over, it gives name to linen stuff that we call
gingham.
It has now a population of 9,196, but was often
devastated and almost abandoned in the olden
times. It was always a stronghold of the Pen-
thlevres, and had to bear the brunt of their ene-
mies. De Montfort's soldiers took it by aessanlt in
1868, and put out the eyes of alt their prisoners;
but in the next year, when De Blois was slain at
▲uray, the men of Ouingamp honourably received
his body, and gave it interment.
It was again taKeto, emportt eto vHe /err*" by
the French, during the troubles about the marriage
of the Duchess Anne, in 1490.
During the wars of the League a great battle
took place here between the forces of Henry IV.
and the combined force of the League(1590), without
any definite result.
There is a fountain on the Place, called the " Fon-
taine de Plomb" of considerable ingenuity of design.
The houses are very curious here, the dark
stones and timber being set off with very white
mortar. Several streams run through Gulngamp,
and it is a good fishing station.
The Church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours was
rebuilt from the thirteenth to the sixteenth
centuries; it has a great peculiarity, which is,
that the side aisles double on each side from the
transepts, so that there are in fact Jive aisles in the
nave. The west front, which is highly sculptured
and surmounted by two square towers, belongs to
the sixteenth century; the clock tower is of the
thirteenth century. On the north side of the
church are two porches, one being of the
thirteenth century, and containing the image of
Notre Dame, which is the miracle working object
of pilgrimage. There is a handsome Gothic altar
of white marble in this chapel, and there arc on
each side of it life-size efigures of the Twelve
Apostles, painted in chromatic colours. The
windows of the church are filled with modern
stained glass, given by resident families.
The Pardon is one of the most frequented in
Brittany, and brings together several thousands
of visitors and pilgrims. About sunset on the
Saturday evening before the first Sunday of
July, the pilgrims begin to arrive, dressed
in every variety of costume, and the streets are
thronged with them; they ropair to the " Fontaine"
on the Place, where they have water poured
over their necks and up the sleeves of their
dresses. The Madonna ia placed on a stage
covered with ermine, on the outside of the
church porch ; she is dressed in a brilliant white
silk gown, and has a gold crown on her head ; this
last was sent to her from Rome in 1867, by the
Pope, as being the most popular, the most vene-
rated, and most miracle-working Image of the
Saute 9.]
8. BBI*UC TO BBE8T— OUIHOAMP.
W^
Tiifin. She Ls farther surrounded by numerous
figures of archangels. Here the pilgrims light their
"ciergQn;" young girls cut off their back hair and
offer it to the Virgin ; other pilgrims make the
round of the exterior of the church three times on
their bare knees, chaplet in hand ; others devoutly
kiss a copper-faced bust of Pius V.
At dark, dancing to the music of the biniou com-
mences; at nine the bells toll, the procession is
formed and leaves the church; the streets arc
brilliantly illuminated; young girls dressed in
■white are in the front ; then follow the pilgrims,
each carrying a lighted "ciergc," and intoning a
hymn in Latin; next come the gorgeousbenners, the
holy relics, and the venerated irange carried aloft on
the shoulders of stout young men dressed in white
surplices; after these follow the town authorities,
the judges, the mayor, and the council, all in full
costume or robes of state. The clergy in their
splendid dresses, and the choristers in white,
chanting, carry the Host under a baldequin of
golden cloth; then follow nearly a thousand school
children, dressed in white, each carrying a small
flag, and decked with coloured ribbons ; the effect
is theatrically beautiful. Military music forms a
part of the procession, which, after having peram-
bulated the town, halts on the Place, where the
clergy light their immense bonfires ; ten thousand
pilgrims arc present with their lighted tapers, and
all fervently repeat the "Ora pro nobis." The
procession over, the mountebanks commence their
saturnalia by way of varying the entertainment.
As it is utterly impossible to accommodate the
pilgrims In the town, tents are pitched in the
neighbouring fields to shelter them, the haylofts
and stables are full of them and many sleep about
the doorsteps and In the open air. At midnight all
Is hushed, there is a solemn mass ; also another dt
daylight, at which the Holy Communion is admin-
istered, after which the pilgrims disperse and
return to their homes. It is next to impossible to
describe the scenes and the contrasts which abound
at this gathering; more especially the collection
of beggars, the hideous deformities of every species,
and the mountebanks.
A second festival is held ami nail y at tHa place,
Usually* In August, called the " Fete de St. Loup;"
it is net a seUgious one*. Uat merely a merry
holiday, to which people come from all parts
of the country. A meadow is prepared for the
occasion, having a raised orchestra gaily decorated
in its centre ; admission is obtained by ticket for
a few sous, and dancing commences from 8 to $
pjn., after which all repair to the town to refresh
themselves and to rest. They i eossemble on the
"Place" at 8 o'clock, where dancing is kept up
until midnight, perfect decorum being observed.
People of all classes mix indiscriminately in these
dances; the most popular are the Rondttnd the
Derobee; the latter causes much laughter and
merriment. Several thousands of persons attend
this merrymaking.
The Miracle Church of Notre Dame de Graces,
2 miles out of town, is worth a visft ; it has an
elegant spire. The details of the exterior sculpture
are rich ; the handsome porch is surmounted by
the Arms of Brittany; the woodwork of the in-
terior is carved, and represents hunting soenes,
vines, dragons, a lion fighting n unicorn, the devil
running away with a cartload of monks. The
Vices are pourtrayed in the persons of idle, greedy,
and avaricious monks. The windows are flam-
boyant, and there are only two aUles; in a
reliquaire on the south side of the altar is deposited
what remains of the bones of Charles de Blois.
Excursions may be made from Guingamp into
the Tregorrais to the north, or into the wild moun-
tain country to the south ; excellent fishing may
be had in both directions. An excursion may be
made from here to Mail Pestivien which is not far
from Kc'ricn. The country about is strewed with
enormous erratic blocks of granite ; iu a marshy
plain are the scattered remains of a double
Cromlech of great extent ; above which there is a
group of enormous stones which form an enclosure;
the whole is surmounted by a colossal pile com-
posed of three superimposed rocks; and there seems
to be bnt little doubt that this is one of the ancient
monuments of an extinct religion.
At about one kilometre beyond, and near to the
manor of Ker-Rohou, is a wooded hill which is
crowned by large rounded blocks of granite, and
a great pillar composed of two stones. There is
another bloek on the side of which there is a
«aised teflon, wJiioh has been worked on: it by the
bund ef mam it resanMesane <nvt!te Menhir knew*
84
BBADBHAW 8 BRITTAHY.
[Route 9.
as Kerloaz (page 79) ; the tame superstitions attach
to it, and the same ceremonies are paid to it at night
time; it is called "Men-ar-dragon" the dragon's
stone, which in the Celtic mythology is bettered to
be the source of generation and of life.
Diligences start daily from Guingamp for
U§enty~one different places; for particulars consult
the table of rehicles at the end of this work.
Carriages for hire may be had at Manes, No. 18,
Rue de St. Nicholas, or at Poulhouets, Place de
I' Hospital.
Belle-Iale-en-Be«ard (Stat.), or Beiie-lsie-
en-Terre, a small but picturesque Tillage, 1,929
inhabitants, with a fair Inn (Hotel del'Ouest). Good
fishing. Excursions to Tonquedec and Lannion,
north; Callac and Carhaix, south.
Flnistere Department is entered before arriving
at Ponthou, a small Tillage amid very mountainous
scenery. The landu here stretch away for miles.
Good shooting may be had here, but it is rather too
near HorlaiZ, for description of which see
Koute VII.
The ralley of the Morlaix river is crossed by a
handsome riaduct; indeed, the engineering of the
line in this direction is rery creditable. A more
difficult country is seldom traversed by the railway.
Pleyber-Christ (8tat.)-There Is acorrcspon-
dance from here to Huelgogt and on to Carhaix ;
It leares at 10-80 p.m.; 4fr. 20c. ; 3J hours on the
road; it is now the only public conveyance to get
to Huelgogt from the north; a private carriage
must be hired at Morlaix.
After the station of Pleyber-Christ comes S.
ThlgOOneC (Theogonia), Hotel du Commerce, at
which a halt should be made to examine the fine
church, which has been frequently rebuilt: the
oldest part is of the sixteenth century ; Itlsareroark-
able church of the Renaissance architecture and
the deep cornices and entablatures, and the rich
effect produced by buttresses and raised stones,
will strike the visitor. Inside there are some
curious sculptures In Kersanton stone. S. Thtgonnec
is the patron of cattle ; a stone carving of hlmleading
a cart drawn by an ox may be seen on one of the
porches. In the churchyard there is a triumphal
arch of the Renaissance style, and a Calvary of
*t merit, which was placed there in 1610.
From here should be visited the remarkable
Calvary of Guimiliau (described Route VII.) A
fishing rod should be taken, as there Is an excellent
trout stream running up to Commanna, in the
hills, where fair accommodation may be obtained.
Commanna is as original a specimen of a Breton
village as can be imagined. Probably there was
a religious community here (torn, gathering;
manaeh, monk) in former days.
LandlvlBiaU (Stat), population, 4,079 (Hotel:
Du Commerce), the next station, may be worth
a halt, on account of its curious Church, with many
statues, and to pay a visit to the country to the
north, rich in architectural gems, particularly Lam-
bader and Lampaul. Guimiliau may be visit ed from
here ; it is a good walk. To Lambader is a five
miles' walk. It has a very beautiful rood-loft, and
also a spiral staircase of the Flamboyant style,
which were given to the church in 1481 by Marc
de Troe'rin, whose armorial bearings on a shield
are supported between the hands of an angel, which
forms part of the screen.
Before Landerneau is reached the chateau of
Roche Maurice will be remarked standing on a
castled crag above the river Elorn. It is called
by Emile Souvestre the "Breton Drachenfels," and
has a legend to match its Rhenish rival. Its
Calvaire is rather a remarkable monument, rich
in architecture of the seventeenth century ; in ten
of the panels is sculptured the Dance of Death, a
Skeleton Is pointing a dart at tbe assemblage and
below it is incised " Je vous tue tons."
Correspondence to S. Pol de Le*on daily, 2fr.
Landerneau (Stat.)— Buffet, and a very toler-
able Hotel (De l'Univers)— has 8,497 inhabitants,
and is prettily situated on the river Elorn. It
is an old country town, having good houses and
quaysalong the river-side, planted with trees. The
river Elorn is here crossed by a bridge, having on
it what is now very rare, namely, rows of houses
on each side, as also a mill of the fifteenth century.
A diligence leaves Landerneau dally for LeE-
neyen at 8-40 a.m. and returns at 4 p.m.; it is
two hours on the road ; return ticket, 2 francs.
This diligence leaves Lesneven at 8-40 a.m., and
returns at 12-45 p.m. A decent breakfast can be
had at the Hotel de France Lesneven; this to a
Route 10.]
BHH8T TO QU1MPBB.
86
eapital way of seeing the "FolgoeV* (toe Route
VIII.), which is situated at about a mile and a half
from that town ; the road li good. A private car-
riage from Landorneau, 10 to 12 francs.
Afe<#.— Passengers usually change trains at Lan-
derneau, It being the Junction of the Oneit and
Orleans linos, as also of the short lino to Brest.
Leaving Landernean thevehlole passes a ehapel of
the sixteenth century, which is dedicated to S. Elol,
where there is a well-attended pardon annually.
This saint is tho patron of horses, which are all
brought there on that day from the surrounding
country; the animals are walked round the chapel
three times ; each time they pass before the image
of the saint the horses are made to bend the knee
by lifting up one of the fore legs, the bridle at the
same time being tightly reined down, so as to
bond the head downwards; this is considered as
a respectful "obeisance" to the saint, after whloh
formality a quantity of hair if plucked from the
tall of each horse and is laid on the altar as an
offering; tho sale of this very peculiar offering
produces a good round sum of money, which goes
to the ohurch.
Below Landernean the river expands into an
estuary, and a steamer runs down to Brest.
Several paper mills owned by Englishmen are
erected on the river.
Within easy reach are the ruins of the Chateau
do la Joyeuse Garde, the Fountain of PI cud ivy, the
Chapel of Bouxlt, in which is a beautiful tomb of
Oliver do la Pallue, and many other souvenirs of
history and romance.
Eight kilometres (ft miles) to the south-east of
Landerneau on the Carhaix road is La Martyr*,
where the most important horse fair in Brittany
Is held annually on the second Monday of July and
the two following days, to whloh more than five
thousand horse < are usually brought. Races were
formerly held here at the same time, but they hare
been suppretsed. No better opportunity can be
afforded to a visitor of seeing the various ooetumes,
or studying the habits of the peasantry than at
this fair, which Is numerously attended both by
Bretons and Normans, the latter being all horse
dealers.
The railway from Landerneau to Brtlt (Route
VIII.), 12 miles, passes by the Anso do XerfaUOli
(which is the station for Plougastel), an inlet used
for storing timber. Thel'Mopltal River, which rune
In here, has a good reputation for salmon and
trout.— For the fishing about this part of Brittany,
oonsult Mr. Kemp's book (published by LongmmnO-
ROUTE X.
BRBBT TO QUIMPER.
(86 miles by rail.)
Excursions should be made from Brest—
1. Into the country about S. Denan % already de-
scribed (Route VIII.)
By steamer (60c.) to the Peninsula of Jtttoft,
which may be said to be strewed with megalithlo
remains In almost every direction, extending from
Camartt to Croxon, and on to Point* <U la Cfiivr*;
they are inferior both in site and Importance to
those of Erdevtn and Carnac, but are, nevertheless,
rery Interesting, although thoy ere rarely visited
by tourists. The principal groups are those of
Toulingutt near the Day of Camawt, and those of
La*daoud«c near Lt Frtt % at which place the Brest
steamers land their passengers. The alignments
of Toulinguet run north and south, being fully
600 yards long, and crossed at right angles by
two parallel lines of stones; there is a ruined
dolmen and a menhir near them. Near Camaret
are also the two menhirs of Logo0at\ and between
the lines of MUm and the village of Roscanwl
there is another, each being about 12 feet high.
Not far from the centre of the 1U Longut, and
near thetarm of£#nr**, there are two alignments,
180 yards long, which are crossed by shorter ones;
and a little beyond the Day of Li Fr*t there is a
dolmen and a menhir. The alignments of Landa-
oudec will be found between the Manor of Lueoat
and Lanvtoc, near the windmill from which they
derive their name; they are situated on the left-
hand side, at a little distance from the road, and
about half-way to Croson ; they are parallel, about
860 yards long, and lead to two contiguous en-
closures, one of which Is square, the other being
triangular. Several of these stones have boon
displaced or removed. There aro also some
menhirs near the windmill, under one of which a
eelt of dlorite was discovered.
ft«
BRADSHAW's BKITTATTT.
[Route 10.
At Croton (Hotel, Morgat, see page 81) a
vehicle can be hired. To the east of Croxon, a
little distance inland, and to the south of the
rirer Laber, not far from the farm of Kergltntin,
there are two alignments, the stones of one being
upright, bnt the others are prostrate, and almost
concealed by the furze bushes. There is a Car-
neillou at the Manor of Trtixron, which is inland,
as also a tumulus named " Le Tombeau fArthus"
To the north of the rirer there are two dolmens
and a short menhir; on the Lande, near the Bay of
iiorgatte there are two menhirs, 10 and 12 feet
long respectively. Between the points of MorgatU
and S. Hernot, on a rising ground, there are the
alignments of Kercolleoch, which terminate in a
square enclosure, composed of a double line of
stones, which is named il La Maison du Curt."
Between S. Hernot and the Tillage of Rottudel
there will be found a dolmen, haying a capstone
10 feet long standing on three supports.
On the western side of the promontory, and
near the little Bay of Locmarch, there are
parallel lines running north and south, a car-
neillou, and a menhir 12 feet high. To the
north of Locmarch, a little way inland, and not
far from a windmill, there are three menhirs,
which are about 8 feet high, and a dolmen ; to the
north-east, and near the Tillage of Qoulven, in the
Bay of Dinant, there is another menhir. The
peculiarity of the alignments in this part of Brit-
taay is, that they are mostly crossed by others at
right angles.
Steamers leave Brest for KiUrn and Camarei
at 6-80 a.m. on Mondays and Fridays, learlng
there on their return Toyage at 4 p.m. Also for
lA Fret on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and
Sundays; returning at 8 p.m., and arriving at
Brest about 6. Fare, 50c. To visit these Megallthic
remains, an excursion can easily be made from
either of the abore mentioned places, but the
better plan will be to land at one and return
to Brest from the other, which will obviate the
fatigue and loss of time occasioned by returning
orer the same ground.
The caves of Crozon (which have been described
~ T II.) and the Kersanton quarries are an
udy for the geologists. To the west
f the Castle of Dinant, a very strong
place during the Wars of the Succession, and the
scene of many encounters between the French and
English as related in FroissarVs Chronicles. It is
often confounded with Dlnan, near S. Malo.
The coast scenery is rery bold and grand to the
west.
On a projecting cliff will be seen the remains of
the old Abbey of Landevennec, or Lanveoc. It was
founded, according to Breton tradition, by King
Grallon, a.d. 445. The name is probably the same
as Landewednack, in Cornwall, where the last
Cornish sermon was preached.
The steamer to Port Launey and Chftteanlln no
longer runs, but there are occasionally excursion
steamers to Chateaulin on Sundays, returning to*
Brest in the evening. The river Aulne is very
sinuous, and the scenery is railed and picturesque.
Great numbers of salmon are captured here and
at Le Faou, in traps and entires.
Daottlas (Stat.) The Abbey of Daoulas (or
of the two murders) was founded in the sixth
century, by the " Seigneur du Faou," in expiation
of the murder of two monks, who were killed at
the altar by two of his adherents; whence the
inhabitants of the locality still go by the
"soubriquet" of double murderers, an epithot
liberally applied to them when they have a dispute
with their neighbours. The Abbey was rebuilt in
1173, by Gnyomarch, Count de Lion; it waa
further restored in the 15th century. The style
of architecture is Roman, but the monastic build-
ings are not interesting. The cloisters are not
without merit, although in a dilapidated state; the
capitals are well carved, and there is a fountain in
the centre, where the monks performed their
ablutions.
Chateaulin (Stat.), population, 8,677. Hotel:
Grande Maison, tolerable. A pretty town, on the
Aulne, and should be made a resting place for
a day or two. The old Castle was one of the
dependencies of the Penthierres, and, like the rest
of their castles, was besieged by the Breton nobles
and destroyed, when John V. fell into the hands of
Madame de Clisson.
Steamer to Brest occasionally, on excursion
trips. At Port Lanney, close to Chftteaulta, a
boat can be hired to Brest; 81 miles, 4 hours.
Bome 10.]
BREST TO QUIMPER — PLKYBEH— HUELOOET.
S7
Correspond&nce to Carhaix, daily, at 8 a.m.,
passing through Pleyben and Ch&teaaneuf-du-
Faou, 5f. 20c; a correspondance from Carhaix to
Huelgoet at 2-20 p.m., 2f. 75c.
To the east a pleasant excursion, combining fish-
ing with architectural study, may be made to
Pldyben, a small town, with a very fine
church, and one of the finest Calvaries in Finis-
tfere. A second class Inn (Voyageurs).
At Logonna Quimerch the small river Buis,
which runs into the Aulne, affords some fine trout
fishing.
A wild mountain road leads up to Braspars, from
whence the tourist should strike off to Huelgoet,
where he will find very fair accommodation.
Huelgoet, a very charmingly situated village,
on a fine lake, like Blenheim on a small scale. The
population is 1,324. Hotels: Hotel de Bretagne is
tolerably comfortable; Hotel de France is fair.
The scenery is very pretty, and in the church are
some curious carvings. Notice particularly the
lectern.
The approach to HuelgoSt is very picturesque;
there are more than five thousand acres of woods
and plantations, which abound with deer, but the
shooting is preserved. About a mile before reach-
ing the town is the "Gouffre." The stream of
water which runs through the rocks disappears
here entirely, it runs underground and re-appears
at about a mile lower down in the valley ; fishing
is not permitted in the lake, but the river Aulne
abounds with trout, and may be fished down to
Landelau.
Huelgoe*t, the wheal or mine in the wood, derives
its name from extensive lead mines, which are
worth a visit. The hydraulic pump for clearing
the mine of water is considered a fine piece of
mechanism.
The lead mines and smelting works of Poullaouen
are also worth visiting. The mines here and at
HnelgoBt have not been worked for some years.
There are many curiosities about Huelgoet. The
" Menage de la Vierge" is an underground cavity, a
short distance from the village, somewhat difficult
of access, but very curious. The rook is hollowed
out into basin 8 and cavities by the action of an
underground stream, and Breton fancy has assimi-
lated these cavities to a batterie de cuisine, and
appropriated them to the Virgin. Menage is
probably a corruption of a Celtic word meaning
"stony," very similar in sound. It will be found a
cool retreat from the heat of the day and the
ubiquitous fleas. There is a Rocking Stone near
it, 25 feet long, 17 broad, and 14 thick; it is
computed to weigh about 96 tons, yet so well
is it poised that it is easily made to oscillate.
The cascades of 8. Herbot are pretty waterfalls,
in a romantic valley, but, like most waterfalls, are
not very important in summer. There is good trout
fishing in the stream below the "Cascade do
S. Herbot." On the side of the hill beyond the
village, is a Dolmen of schist, nearly 40 feet long,
and 6 feet broad : it is called " Lo Tombeau de
Gueorec. S. Herbot is one of the saints under
whose protection cattle are placed. The pardon is
held in May, and lasts three days. The peasants
assemble here from all parts of the adjacent
country for this festival; what is most striking is
the offering of (dead) cows' tails, which are liter-
ally showered on the altar, besides which a hand-
ful of hair from the tails of the animals present is
offered to the saint ; it is estimated that the sale of
these gifts to tho church realizes about eighty
pounds.
The Church of S. Herbot is very beautiful, espe-
cially the rood loft, a decoration common in Breton
churches. The renaissance and geometric carvings
are wonderfully elaborate.
Correspondances from Carhaix, daily, at 2-30
p.m.; to Carhaix at 2 a.m., daily, 2fr. 75c; to
Pleyber Christ at 5 p.m., 4fr. 20c.
Commanna and Guim.il iau (Routo VII.) lie be-
tween Huelgoet and Morlaix.
A detour may be made round by Sizun and he
FaoUy near which latter place the river THopital
may be fished, but it is a very barren and sparsely
inhabited country.
To the west of Chateaulin should be visited the
beautiful Bay of Douariienex, said by enthusiastic
Breton writers to be equal to tho Bay of Naples.
The Church of Rumengol (? from •' Rcmcd ' ana
u oil" signifying All Remedies) is a famous pilgri-
mage church. It is said thorc stood here in ancient
times a Pagan altar, often red with human
blood, but that on the triumph (if Christianity
over paganism, on its site was erected a **' v
1
J 88
BBADSHAW S BMTTUIT.
[Route 10.
to Voire Dame de tout remede, of such power
that a pilgrimage to it on Trinity Sunday, is equal
to a pilgrimage to Notre Dame de Lorette. The
site of the city of Is, which is said to hare been
swallowed up (ride Vlllemarqae's Barz&s Breiz,
page 38) is belieTed to be near to the Bay of Tre*-
pasees, at the Tillage of "Troguer," where the
remains of many buildings and of a wall, "Moguer-
a-Is " (wall of the city of Is) will be found.
There can be but little doubt as a geological fact
and long defied justice. He was at length captured
and broken upon the wheel.
From Ch&teaulin, Qaimper may be reached in less
than an hour by rail; about 2 hours by road, orer
a very hilly country.
QuemeneVen (Stat.) A correspondance waits
here to convey passengers to LoCTOnan C6| miles),
where there is a good church of the 15th century;
the pulpit, of the 17th century, is carrcd and
represents the legend of S. Ronan, the costume of
that the sea has very much encroached on the land ' the figures is of the 14th century; on the south
about here; indeed, at low water, the ruins of a ' side of the aisle is the Chapel of Pcnite* (1530),
number of constructions may also be seen in the containing the massive mausoleum of S. Ronan,
Bay of Audierne; a circumstance which has given
rise to many romantic legends of cities being judi-
cially swallowed up like Sodom and Gomorrah ; and
like the fishermen of Lough Neagh and Cardigan
Bay, the dwellers around Douarnenez seem to
" Bee the round towers of other toys
In the witm beneath them shining."
There is a very elegant church also at Ploare*,
whose spire may be seen far and wide.
Douarnenez (Stat.) Hotels: Du Commerce ; De
Bretagne ; and Des V oy ageurs. The latter is mostly
frequented by Parisians, which might nut prove
agreeable to ladies. A thriving town of nine
thousand inhabitants, on a fine bay, having
several large establishments for curing Sardines ;
twelve hundred fishing boats and three hotels;
and much frequented during the bathing season,
as it has fine sands, and the scenery is really
very lovely. To the east of the town, distant
about one kilometre, is the rivulet of "Ris" in
which there are plenty of trout. Douarnenez is a
favourite report of artists ; the scenery is very fine.
Railway to Pont Croix and Audierne (p. 89).
Boats may be hired here to visit the caves of
Morgat, but owing to the uncertainty of the winds
and the velocity of the tides, it is hardly recom-
mendable to do so. The caves had better be visited
from Brest, by the steamer to "Le Fret "(see p. 81).
Formerly Douarnenez was a little wild, wind-
swept fishing village; and once it had a very evil
reputation as the resort of a robber chief named
Fontenelle, who took advantage of the disturbed
state of the country during the religious wars to
"nd him a band of brigands, who
rible atrocities upon the peasants,
supported by six angels; sick persons crawl under
it to be healed of their infirmities. About 1| mile
to the north is the village of PlOUVenezPorxay,
where, on the last Sunday in September, there is
held the most renowned Pardon in Lower Brittany ;
it is known as " Le Grand Pardon de Notre Dame
de la Paine;"" the church is modern, but the
venerated statue of the Virgin, which is of granite,
dates back to IMS. Plouvenez Porzay can also
be conveniently visited from Douarnenez, from
which it is distant about 6| miles.
Qulmper (Stat.) Population, 17,406. The
chief town of the department of Finistere is a
clean, well-built town, with well preserved walls
and towers. It stands on the banks of the River
Odet, which is navigable to the sea for small
vessels up to 300 tons.
The principal Hotel (De l'Epe*e) having come into
new hands,*is now a good and comfortable house.
There is also the Hotel de France (good). When
we spdak of hotels in Brittany, the visitor is
requested to divest himself of any preconceived
idea of hotels derived from large towns at home
or abroad. The style is very rough and not par-
ticularly ready; jugs and basins are scarce and
of the smallest conceivable dimensions, and the
traveller must provide his own soap.
Quimper had a very strong castle in former days.
It was built by Peter Mauclerc, and often taken and
retaken in the Civil Wars. It was held by De Mont-
fort during the War of the Succession, but taken in
1844 by Charles De Blois, as his panegyrists say,
miraculously — the sea refusing to flow in order to
give the assailants time to escalade the face of the
Castle, which hangs over the tidal river.
Route 10.]
BBB8T TO QUIMPBB— QU1MPBB.
89
The principal Hon of Quimper is the Cathedral
dedicated to 3. Corentin. It was commenced in
1239; the west front, with its handsomely cut
portal, and the towers, were built in 1424; the
nave, transept*, and side aisles were built at
the same period. Two spires, 250 feet high, by
Mons. Bigot, were added in 1858, the cost being
defrayed from the proceeds of a hal penny sub-
scription throughout the diocese for 5 years, under
the title of " Sou de S. Corentin; " the sum col-
lected was 160,001 francs. The dimensions of this
church are 322 feet long, 152 broad, and 65 high
under the vault of the nave. The west porch is
ornamented by a triple row of sculptured angels,
above which are heraldic escutcheons of Duke
John V., and of thiee of the ancient noble families;
between the spires, and on the angle of the gable,
there is a modern equestrian statue of King
Grallon. The interior has been well restored, but
the effect has been unfortunately spoiled by the
deviation of the chancel to the north. There is
some old painted glass in the clerestory; the
pulpit, which is carved and gilt, it an exquisite
specimen of the Renaissance.
S. Corentin was a Breton saint, and should be the
patron of anglers. u The Bon Dieu," says Albert
Le Grand, "sent him a singular fish into the foun-
tain of his hermitage, which came every morning
at his call to have a slice cut off for the saint's
breakfast, and then swam away as lively as ever."
There are generally a few English residents at
Quimper; there is also a Wesleyan Mission. It
has an agreeable public walk; the hill over the
Champ de Mars, which is well wooded, has been
cut into zigzags leading up to the top, from
whence there is a good view of the river. Good
china (faience) is produced here. On the Place is
a Museum, and a statue to Dr. Laennec.
Private carriages may be hired at the coach
office on the Place, near the Cathedral. Railway
runs from Douarnenez to Pont Croix (Hotel:
Sargeant) and Audierne (Hotel: Du Commerce).
It is an easy walk to Pont l'Abbe* Station, Pen-
March, and Kerity; a carriage, It. Hotel at Pont
l'Abbe" ; du Hamel. The whole district is strewn
with megalithic remains.
In November, 1879, M. Du Chatelier opened
a tumulus at Kerhue*-Bras, 3 kilos, beyond Plou-
li
gastel St. Germain, and 18 from Quimper. There
are three tumuli here, the two smaller ones having
been previously opened. The tumulus, recently
explored, has a diameter of 180 feet and is 20 feet
high. It is composed entirely of earth. On
digging down 15 feet, a carefully arranged stone
rcof (to prevent infiltration) was arrived at; under
it were two capstones, feet 6 inches by 7 feet, and
9 fe*t 6 inches by 11 feet, and 1 foot i inches thick,
respectively ; the chamber below being 8 feet long,
4 feet 6 inches broad, and 4 feet high. It was
nearly full of fine earth : there was no allot, both
ends being closed by stones laid across and rest-
ing against the supports. After removing the
earth from the interior a quantity of oak boards
was found, together with a thick bed of oak leaves,
among which were some acorns and beech nuts,
in a good state of preservation. Here were also
30 barbed flint arrow heads, and one of rock
crystal, one of the former having still a part of its
wooden shaft attached to it ; two bronze axes, the
largest one having a sheath to it of the same
metal ; a bronze sword, which had been broken in
two places at the time of interment; six bronze
daggers, one having a haf ting of wood in a fair
state of preservation, another with its blade waved
(like a Malay kris), and two being bent double;
some corn crushers, and some sherds of pottery.
The floor of the western extremity was thickly
covered with ashes and charcoal, amongst which
were found the remains of incinerated human
bones, alongside of which had been placed the
broken sword and the largest axe. At a little
distance from them lay a polished stone having
flattened sides and concave ends; it was 22 inches
long, and is supposed to be a Commander's baton.
The chamber had been dug down to the rock, and
2 feet 6 inches below the level of the soil. This
collection is now at M. Dn Chateiier's residence,
Kernuz, at Pont l'Abbe*. It is well worth the
attention of antiquaries.
The wild country toward Audierne may be
visited from Quimper. About f of a mile from
Audierne is to be found a remarkable ancient
monument, combining the worship of springe
with that of stones, which were held in veneration
by the Celts. This monument is a Dolmrr-
one of these sacred springs; it consists
r
[Bonte 11.
facia*; the Bey ef Andierae, in the
ef Pkmm. Uhut diameter of 140 feet, and
to 14 feet high ; it contains a dolmen and
«a atUe, the length of which is 43 feet; the
breadth at the chamber is 9 feet, that of the attic
to * test; its entrance faces the south-east, and H
consists of 21 supports and « capstones; charcoal
was found everywhere in it, also two flint knives,
a quantity of potsherds, some of which were
ornamented, the greater part being in the dtUe;
several well-preserTed urns and small celts were
found in the chamber, the flooring of which had
been made with rolled pebbles from the sea shore.
For rail to Yannes and Nantes, see Routes XII.
andXin. A carriage may be hired at Pont 1* Abbe*
to Tisit Ke*rity and Pen-March, distant 4 miles.
W*U.— Ladies will require one if they desire to see
Pen-March, unless they can traverse 8 miles of
bad road.
BOUTE XI.
PARIS TO KANTE8
IUTO BXITTAHT, «T RAILWAY.
The direct route to by Orleans, Tours, and
Saumur to Angers, but Le Hani is worth a visit
for those who have time to spare.
Pari s to Le Mans, 1 26 miles (Route I.) Le Mans
to Nantes, by Angers, 111 miles.
From Le MaU (Stat.) {Buffet. Hotels: Dauphin ;
Bouled'Or; de France; Grand Hdtel; du Maine;
and, near the Railway Station, Hdtel de Paris) the
railway follows the course of the little river Sarthe,
through a picturesque and fertile country. The
only remarkable town to Sable, near which is a
Benedictine Monastery, called the Abbey des
Solesmes, worth visiting; also the Chateau Gon-
tier, about 10 miles west. Hotels at Sable", Notre
Dame and Du Commerce. Diligence to Solesmes.
Angeri (Stat.) Buffet. Population, 72,669.
Hotels : D'Anjou; Grand Hotel; du Cheval Blanc;
de l'Europe. Cafes: Grand; du Passage; da
Theatre; andde France. Cab fares: the course,
75c; per hour, lfr. 60c. A fine town, on the
Maine, about 5 miles above its junction with the
Loire. Though much modernised since the period
'■ was a renowned fortress, it still retains
ts former character.
-KiMJon.ief//.
It is no longer "Black Angers," being as bright
a looking town as any in France. The old castle,
cathedral, several churches, public gardens, and
two museums, deserve a visit. St. Maurice's
Cathedral contains a large and very beautifully
sculptured modern pulpit, forming a religious
allegory; also some remarkable old tapestry, the
gift of King Rene' (1480), and bis benitier.
A steamer leaves the Quai de Ligny daily at
7 am. for Nantes ; also one from Quai des Lisettes
to Chateau Gonthier (6 hours); fare, 9f. 50c.
Soon after leaving Angers, the railway comes in
sight of the River Loire, alongside which it runs to
Nantes.
8. GvOrgMi* the station for ChaUonnet, on the
other side of the Loire, reached by a suspension
bridge. There is a fine church at Savenieres, close
by. ChamptOCl (Stat.), a small Tillage, with a
fine old castle in ruins, once the residence of Gilles
de Rets, whose crimes and punishment will be des-
cribed under Tiffauges, another of his residences.
Ingrandes (Stat.) is on the boundary between the
Loire Infe"rieure, and Maine et Loire; consequently,
we here enter the ancient department of Brittany.
Varadeu (Stat-) Hotel: Des Voyageurs. The
place where the Yendean army under D'Elbee Bon-
champs and La Rochejacqnelin, crossed the Loire,
after their defeat at ChoUet n by the republican
forces under Westermann. The passage of the
fugitives with their wounded and a panic-stricken
multitude, 80,000 in all, was effected from the flat
shore under the heights of S. Florent opposite,
under circumstances of great distress and diffi-
culty. Its description by Madame de la Roche-
jacqnelin, is very graphic and pathetic.
Bonchamps, the Yendean leader had been mor-
tally wounded at the Battle of Chollet, and, indeed,
he expired shortly after passing the Loire; but his
last moments were spent in encouraging the flying
multitude, and obtaining boats for their passage;
while his name will always be illustrious from
his courageous exertions to save the lives of the
prisoners, 5,000 Id number, whom the Yendeans
had determined to massacre before crossing the
Loire.
Route 11.]
PAKIS TO KANTBB — AXCBSIB — KAKTK8.
96
The tomb of Bonchamps, in S. Florent church, it
surmounted by a life-size figure of the hero in
white marble, as he might hare appeared, when
appealing from the pallet on which he lay dying,
to the mercy of the other Vendean leaders. The
famous words, "grdce aux prisonniers!" are en-
graved on the sarcophagus which contains his
remains.
AncenlS (Stat.), population, 5,141. Hotel: De
France. From this station there is a road into
La Vendue, across the Loire by a handsome sus-
pension bridge. La Vendee may also be visited by
rail from Angers.
It was here that the shattered remains of the
Vendean army, under La Rochejacquelin, which
had crossed the Loire at S. Florent, a few weeks
before, endeavoured to recross it after their terrible
defeat at Le Mans, by the republican army under
Marceau. Disappointed of this hope by the vigil-
ance of the enemy, the Vendeans were hurled back
into Brittany, and after an ineffectual stand at
Savenay, were cut to pieces.
On the further side of the Loire may be discerned
the remains of the Castle of Champtoceau (perhaps
Chantoiseaux), an old feudal strong-hold of the
Fenthievres. It was to this castle that Margaret
of Clisson decoyed the young Duke of Brittany,
John V., under pretence of a hunting party, in 1417,
and seized him and kept him as a prisoner. He
was separated from his companions by the appa-
rently accidental breaking of a foot bridge, and
immediately surrounded by the adherents of Mar-
garet. He was transferred from castle to castle,
but ultimately the Breton nobles took up arms for
his deliverance.
This warfare led to the entire overthrow of the
Fenthievre faction, and the destruction of their
strongholds, particularly Lamballe, Jugon, Guin-
gamp, La Roche Derrien, Chateaulin, and Josselin.
The railway continues to follow the right bank of
the Loire, which is here studded with islands, past
the stations of Oudon and Clalrmont, with its
lofty castle-crowned crags, and over a long alluvial
plain for 20 miles, until the grand old towers and
fortifications of Nantes appear in view.
Nantes (Stat.)— Buffet. Hotels; De France,
Place Graslin, good, and has baths; De Paris,
2, Rue Boileau (a family hotel); De Bretagne,
a new building in Rue de Strasbourg; comfort-
able and moderate; frequented byBreton noblesse;
Du Commerce et des Colonies, 12, Rue Santeufl
(commercial travellers). There are several hotels,
but the above are the most reeommendable.
Cafes: De France and Grand Cafe* on the Place
Graslin.
Its population is 122,760. It lies 240 miles south-
west of Paris. There are resident English and
American Consuls, but English residents are few.
Post-Office, Quai Brancas, not far from the
Bourse. Telegraphs at the Post Office.
Guide books, maps, Ac, may be purchased at
Libraire Veloppe*, corner of Rue Jean Jaquea
Rousseau and the Quai de la Fosse; or at Morels,
20, Rue Crtfbillon. Passengers for St Nazaire,
Le Croisic, Le Pouliguen, and Gucrrande should
book at the station, Quai de la Fosse.
Cab Fares.— Cabs (4 wheels, 2 horses) from 6
a.m. to midnight : course, \fr. 60c. ; by the hour,
Ifr. 75c. From midnight to 6 a.m.: course, 2fr. 25c.;
by the hour, %fr. 25c. Second a:.d following hours
before midnight, lfr. 50e. ; after midnight, 2/r.26c.
English Church Service at noon on Sundays in the
French Protestant Temple. Rue de Gigant.
Nantes, the most considerable town, and some-
time the capital of Brittany, is situated on the right
bank of the Loire, along which its noble quays
extend for nearly 2 miles. The Loire has forced for
itself numerous channels through the flat plain,
and Nantes is approached, from the south side by
no less than seven bridges.
The port has of late become very much silted
up, and a canal is being constructed to admit
vessels drawing 16 feet.
The history of Nantes dates from a very early
period. It was the capital of the Nannetes, a power-
ful tribe, who revolted with the Veneti against
the Roman dominion, and with them suffered exem-
plary punishment at the hand of Julius Caesar.
It is styled, with Rennes, a "title malheureuse" by
Daru, from its having suffered innumerable sieges
and assaults. The early Breton kings held their
court here; but in a.d. 490 it was sacked by the bar-
barian Alani, and only recovered by Bitdic aft««* »
siege of 60 days. In 594 it was taken by H^
34
BKADSHAW'a BKITTAKT.
[Route 1L
In the beginning of the ninth century Nomenoe set
up his throne here; bat from the middle to the close
of the century, it suffered repeated Incursions from
the Normans, who utterly wrecked and devastated
the city. In 938, Alain IV., surnamed u Barbe
forte," after a long exile in England, landed at Dol,
and making bis way as far as Nantes, drove out
the barbarians. We are told that when he desired
to go to the cathedral to return thanks for his
successful enterprise, so ruined was the city, that
toe was forced to cut away the brambles with his
"blood-stained sword in order to reach the entrance.
The Dukes of Brittany held their court sometimes
at Nantes, sometimes at Rcnnes ; but it was re-
marked in the twelfth century that the men of
Nantes, chiefly from their commercial relations
with foreigners, had become Anti-Breton in their
principles, and refused to acknowledge the counts
of Renncs, Vanncs, or Cornouaille as their sove-
reigns.
-Nantes had its share in all the troubles of Brit-
tany during the Wars of the Succession and the
League. Anne of Brittany was born here. When
Henry IV. paid a visit to Brittany, after the dis-
comfiture of the Duke de Mercosur and hispartisans,
tic took up his quarters in the Castle of Nantes. He
-was astonished at the grandeur of the city, and
•exclaimed, " Veatre-Saiiit-Gris, let duet de Bretagne
n'itaient pat de petite companions" It was at
Nantes that Henry IV. signed the famous Edict,
In 1598, which confirmed the rights of Protestants
to exercise their religion, which Edict Louis XIV.
revoked in 1 6d5.
The history of Nantes must ever be tarnished by
the stain loft upon it by the atrocities committed
toy Carrier and his associates duringthe»Rovolution.
The "Noyades" and the "Mariages re>ubli-
cains" during which 80,000 persons perished,
<an never bo effaced from the page of history.
At the Palais de Justice, Rue Lafayette, may
toe seen some characteristic minutes of the
Revolutionary tribunal, including the names and
professions of about 150 men sentenced to death
daily, "pour avoir porte* les armes contre la
Fatrie;" and also of 50 women "pour avoir
sulvi les brigands. 11 The Vemleans, too, sus-
tained heavy losses in and about Nantes.
In later times, in 1S*2, the Dnchesse de Berri, who
had long sustained the hopes of tho Bourbon fac-
tion in Brittany, was taken prisoner at a. house,
3, Rue du Chateau. She and her companions
were concealed in a small cavity at the back of a
fire-place, but a party of soldiers, who were on the
look out for them, lighted a fire on the hearth,
and the heat and the smoke caused the fugitives
to betray their whereabouts.
The Cathedral of S. Pierre is externally an un-
sightly building, being unfinished. Works have
been going on for years to carry out the original
design, which has been completed, so far as the
body of the church is concerned. It is said to be
erected on the spot where S. Felix built a hermi-
tage, or church, a.d. 570, which was replaced in the
twelfth century by a Roman Basilica; the present
building dates from 1484. The western facade,
with its three lofty portals, is remarkable for the
numerous bas-reliefs and sculptures, representing
the Last Judgment ; it was finished in 1491. The
two towers are still unfinished, and, in fact, hardly
rise above the roof. The nave is lofty and well
proportioned; it has a height of 120 feet under
the vault. At the rear of the present apse is the
new choir with side chapels ; it is being built in
harmony with the nave. The south transept
contains the superb monument of Francis the
Second, Duke of Brittany, and of Margaret de
Foix, his second wife, a masterpiece of the
Renaissance, sculptured in 1507 by Michael
Colomb; its form is that of a large altar tomb,
and it is constructed of coloured marbles. It is
9 feet G inches long, by 4 feet 6 inches broad, and
of the same height ; and is covered by a black
marble slab, on which lie the recumbent figures
of the Duke and Duchess, their heads being sup-
ported by angels. At the angles are placed four
white marble statues, of nearly life-size, repre-
senting Justice with the sword and scales (which
is said to be a likeness of tne Duchess Anne) ;
Power, strangling the dragon of heresy; Wisdom,
doable faced, holding a mirror and a compass;
Prudence, bearing a lantern and a horse's bit. At
the sides are statuettes, in niches, of the
Twelve Apostles ; at the head, those of B. Francis
d'Assis and 8. Margaret; at the foot those of
Charlemagne and 6. Louis. Below toes© there
are sixteen mouxeiag.figuses 1a dark: toarfcla, their
Route 11.]
PA&I8 TO NANTBB— VAXVES.
f»
heads, hands, and feet being of white marble.
This tomb was first erected in the Carmelite
church, bat was violated in 1793, and the pieces
were scattered. It was restored and placed where
It is now in 1815, and the remains of Arthur the
third Duke (Richmont), Nonstable of France, who
contributed greatly in driving the English out of
Brittany, in the reign of Charles VII., were
placed in it at that time. The four statues merit
especial attention, particularly that of Wisdom ;
they are designed in good taste, and the execution
is exquisite, especially that of the draperies.
Jn the north transept is a monumental tomb to
General Lamoriciere, in the Italian Renaissance
style, much resembling that of Henri II. at S.
Denis. Biaok marble columns support the entabla-
ture, beneath which lies the effigy of the hero of
Constantina and the soldier of the Pope in white
marble. The sculpture is exquisite, especially
that of the winding sheet. The face is uncovered,
and he presses to his breast a crucifix; his motto,
tl Spe$ mcaDeui" is inscribed on the upper part,
and is frequently repeated. At the angles are
four allegorical figures in bronze— namely, Faith,
Charity, Military Devotion, and History. At the
foot is a medallion with the busts of the general's
daughters.
The bas-reliefs of the organ (fifteenth century)
deserve attention. To the right and the left of the
organ are four statues; one is a Duke of Brittany,
the other three arc bishops. Some of the side chapels
are also worthy of notice, especially the second in
the left aisle, that of S. Donatien, the patron saint
of Nantes ; also the third one on the same side,
"La chapel le du Saint Sacrcment," which has some
good painted glass ; the last one, in the right aisle,
has some good wood carvings, and a painting of S.
Clair healing the blind ; the painted glass window
represents the same subject. S. Nicholas, Place
Royal, was built in 1844 (style, thirteenth century) ;
its spire is 276 feet high. The interior of this, as
also of almost every one of the modern churches of
Nantes, has been spoiled by the walls being ruled
into squares. The other churches are S. Croix,
behind the Place Bouff ay ; S. Clair; S. Jacques;
S. Donatien ; rimmacule"e Conception. Nearly the
whole of these have been recently restored, which
gives them a chalky appearance.
Nantes possessed the first College in Jrancc
founded by Francis II., Duke of Brittany, in 1459.
It was endowed with 76 professorships.
The old Castle stands not far from the railway
station; it was founded in the 10th century, and
was reconstructed in 1466, by Duke Francis II; it
was finished by his daughter Anne of Brittany,
who was born here in 1477. She was married iu
the Castle Chapel in 1498, to Louis XII, of France,
which building was destroyed in the year 1600, by
the explosion of the powder magazine. The Castle
has lately been rebuilt, but it still retains many
traces of its antiquity. It contains a good armoury,
and from the top of its tower there is a splendid
view of the Loire, and its numerous bridges, as
also of the town of Nantes, and of the surrounding
country. The curtain wall is shewn from which
Cardinal De Retz let himself down by a rope into
a boat on the Loire, whilst his friends diverted the
attention of the guards, and so effected his escape
from prison in 1684. Strangers are not (admitted
to view the Castle after 4 p.m. The quays aro
much spoilt as a promenade by the railway run-
ning along them. There are large manufactures
in Nantes; sugar refining is carried on to a large
extent, also the packing of preserved comestibles,
particularly sardines from the coast of Brittany.
At the back of the Cathedral is the Boulevard
Louis Seize, which has on it a granite column
(90 feet), surmounted by a statue of that king,
by Molchnecht. The Cours de S. Pierre and S.
Andre" join this boulevard, at the extremity of
which, facing the river, and on each side of the
steps, are four mediocre statues of Anne of Brittany,
Arthur III. (Richmont), Duguesclin, and Oliver
de Clisson. On the right side of this promenade
is the Rue Felix, in which is situated the nncient
Church of the Oratoire, now converted into an
Archaeological Museum ; the collection (open Sun.
and Thurs., 12 to 4) consists principally of some
curious fragments of sculptured church archi-
tecture, amongst which will be noticed a represen-
tation of the Devil running oil with a soul, some
Roman military landmarks, and about 400 coins
and medals. . The sword of Charrette, the Chouan
leader, who was shot at Nantes in 1796, is kept
here, as also that of General Combnmne; the latter
in a glass case. The Rue du Lyce*e, which is close
96
BBADSHAW 8 BRITTAKT.
[Route 11.
to the muieum, leads to the Publie Garden, in
which are probably some of the finest avenues of
magnolias in France ; it has of late years been
very tastefully laid out with pretty rockeries,
grottoes, cascades, and bridges ; it well merits a
visit. A band plays on Sundays and fftte days.
In the centre of the town is the " Place Royale,"
where there is a handsome granite Fountain,
baring on the basement four bronce nymphs,
which symbolize the rirers "Sevre, Erdre,
Cher, and Loire." Above them is a series of
bronze dolphins, and above all a statue in white
marble of the City of Mantes. The " Passage de
la Pommaraye " is an arcade, which connects by
Iron staircases the streets '* de la Fosse and de
Creldllon ;" it has three galleries, and is considered
one of the curiosities of the town.
The Cours Cambronne is in the west end, and
next to the Place Graslin; in the middle of the
former there is a bronze statue of General Cam-
bronne, erected in 1848; he is represented as hold-
ing a tattered French flag against his heart, and
defending it with a sword in his right hand; on
the pedestal there is a bronze plate, on which
appears, in raised letters, " La garde meurt mais
ne se rend pas " (a saying attributed to him, but it
seems without authority) ; on the side of the granite
pedestal is incised " Waterloo, June 18th, 1815."
The Theatre is on the Place Graslin, but does not
merit any especial notice. The west end of the
town was commenced in 1784 by Monsieur Graslin,
a "fermier general;*' the houses are built of free
stone (similar to the Bath stone), which comes
from Saumur, and are very handsome, but the
effect is unfortunately quite lost, from the streets
being too narrow.
The Gallery of Paintings, Rue de Feltre, near the
Place Royale, is in the upper part of the cloth
hall; it Is divided into five rooms, which are
lighted from above. The further one contains
the collection of the Due de Feltre and a statue of
Cleopatra. This collection is much above the
average, but the place is too small to contain
it ; many of the paintings are copies; there are
also tome originals by Perugino, Sebastiano del
Piombo, Luigi Carracci, and Salvator Rosa. This
museum is open every day frcm noon to 4 p.m.
Catalogues may be hired from the concierge for
25 cents.
The Museum ef Natural HUtory, Place de la
Monnaie, contains a great number of interesting
objects; a complete collection of the mineralogy
of the Loire InfeYieure; a mummy, presented by
the Egyptian traveller, Cailiaud; and the skin of a
republican soldier, who was killed in 1793 by the
Vendeans, at the siege of Nantes, who, poor fellow,
willed his only possession to his country to cover a
drum with. Strangers are admitted daily, from
12 till 4, on producing their passports ; it is closed
during the vacation, from Sept. 1st to Oct. 1st.
At the Mutie Areheologique, Cours St. Pierre, is
preserved, among other objects, a rare curiosity;
it is an enamelled casket of massive gold with in-
scriptions, which formerly contained the heart of
Anne of Brittany. The inscriptions are : " Cvevr
de vertvs orne dignemant Covronne." " O cvevr
caste et pvdiqve o jvste et B cvevr — magnianime
et franc de tovt vice vainqvevr— cvevr digne en-
tretovs de covronne celeste — or est ton cler esprit
hors de paine et moleste ." " En ce petit vaissea v —
de fin or pvr et mvnde— repose vn plvs grand
cvevr— qve oncqve dame evt av mvnde.— Anne fvt
le nom delle—en des Bretons — royale et sovveraine,
— M. Ve. XIII. Ce evevr fvt si tres havlt— qve de
la terre avx cievlx — sa vertv liberalle— accroissoit
mievlx et micvlx— Mais Dicv en a rei>rins sa por-
tion meillevre— et ceste part terrestre - en grand
dvell novs demevre— IXe j anvier." Open on Sun-
days and Thursdays, 12 to 4 p.m.
TfaiH&Kc £«6rarycontains90,000printed volumes
and 500 MSS. ; open daily (except on Mondays, all
fe"te days, and the first Tuesday of every month) ;
it is closed during the vacation, from September
15th to October 15th.
The Prefecture, in Placedela Prefecture, built in
17C3, contains a great number of very curious
manuscripts and documents relating to the history
of Brittany, charter?, and celebrated trials,
especially that of Marshal Gilles de Retz. There
is a very fine double staircase in this building.
The Bourse, on the quay, has but little archi-
tecturally to attract notice; on the east side
are four statues of Jean Bart, Duguay Trouin,
Duquesne, and Cassard; the west front has ten
statues, representing the Four Quarters of the
Globe, the City of Nantes, the Loire, Abundance,
Ac. The Chamber of Commerce and the Tribunal
hold their sittings in this building.
Koute ll.J
PARIS TO NANTES — NANTES— CLISSOK.
97
Carriages for hire at Mons. Gre"goire aine", Rue
lesChalotais.
Pleasure boats and rowing boats for trips on the
Erdre mny be found at the end of the Chaussee de
Barbin, sind at reasonable prices
Steamboats to Angers, Chateau Gontier, and
Stfgre* leave Quai Malllard every day, at 7 a.m^
Bordeaux, three times per week, 89, Rue de la
Fosse; L'Orient, touching at S. Nazaire and Belle
Isle, every other day, 66, Quai de la Fosse.
Steamers daily at 7 a.m. for Basse Indre, Indret,
Cone*ron, Lc Pclerin, Froissy, Paimb«euf, and St.
Nazaire; returns at 5 a.m and noon; from
Paimbocuf to Nantes at 6 a.m. and 1 p.m. During
t he summer months there are additional steamers
on Sundays to Le Pouliguen, Le Crolsic, Poraic,
and Noinnouticrs.
The foundations of a vast Roman Hippodrome
have been unearthed near Nantes. A Roman road
nnd many fragments of villas with a theatre for
4,000 persons were found.
Nantes should be the starting point for several
excursions.
Excursion A.
Across the Loire, into La Vendue, the scene
of the terrible civil war in 1792-3. The country
south of Nantes is very rich and fertile, and the
srape is cultivated everywhere. The villages are
clean, and the inhabitants a tidy well-to-do race.
The usual excursion from Nantes is to Clisson, a
small town about 20 miles from Nantes by rail
towards Roche-sur-Yonne Gate Napoleon- Vendue)
and Rochefort.
On the road, a short distancebeyondTournebride,
is passed the little village of Le Pallet, famous as
the birthplace of Abe'lard, whose romantic history
has been a stock-piece of sentimental writers. He
was born here at the beginning of the twelfth cen-
tury, and was famous as a dialectician and man of
letters. Although in orders he became attached to
He*loiae, one of his pupils, and married her. Their
marriage was for a long time kept secret, and even
denied by Heloise after the birth of a son named
Astrolabe. Abe'lard was cruelly maltreated by the
friends of He*loise,and died in a monastery. There
are a few remains of the Chateau of Abe'lard, and
portions of the private chapel of the family. In the
lianas Breix ii a curious Breton poem on this
subject, called "LoUa hag Abailard:'
Five miles further on is GllSSOn (Stat.)—
Hotels: Del'Europe; delaPoste; de France. An
Italian looking town, with a few remains of the old
feudal times. It stands very prettily on the banks
of the Sevre, and is much resorted to by the people
of Nantes. The houses have almost flat roofs, with
heavy red tiles.
The famous Cattle of Clisson of the fifteenth
century stands boldly on a rock over the
river Moine. It was a grand* place in the
time of Oliver de Clisson, but the donjon keep
was built at an earlier date. The Comte de
Clisson was beheaded by Philip VI., King of France ;
his son, Oliver de Clisson, fought on the side
of the De Montforts and the English during the
Wars of the Succession, and performed prodigies of
valour at the Battle of Auray, where he lost an eye
from the stroke of a lance. In the partition of the
spoil, however, Clisson was offended because De
Mont fort, now John IV., gave Blain and the Tour
du Conne*table to Chandos, and shortly after he
joined Duguesclin, and the two entered Brittany
with an army against John and his English allies.
After the death of Duguesclin, Clisson was
made Constable of Brittany. On the recall of John
by his subjects, Clisson was received into favour,
but John becoming jealous of him, treacherously
seized him and stripped him of all his possessions
as a ransom for his life. On recovering his liberty
he went up to Paris to ask the assistance of the
King, Charles IV., against John, and narrowly es-
caped assassination at the hands of Pierre de
Craon. Though unable to obtain assistance from
France he declared war against John, but was at last
reconciled to him. After his death Clisson continued
to be the inveterate enemy of the English, and
attacked them in all quarters by land and sea.
Many English prisoners were immured in the dun -
geons of the Castle of Clisson, and perished miser-
ably. TheClissons amassed immense wealth and
power, and John V. was induced to indict Clisson
for sorcery. He saved his life by a timely present
of 100,000 crowns to the young King, but the
Chateaux of Clisson and Josselin were invest ea
and pillaged. Clisson died shortly afterwards; nls
widow, however (vide History of Brittany In
the introduction) maintained his quarrel against
the King, and seized hi* parson. The of
r
OS
BBADSHiW 3 BRITTJLXT.
[Konte 11.
mained in the family of tbe Bohans, bat in a neg-
lected state, till tbe time of the revolution, when it
was used as a retreat by many of the royalist families
6f La Vendee, who, with their families and eren
their cattle, took refuge for some time in the castle
vaults. On their retreat being discovered they
were all put to death, many bf in? bnrled alive into
a dfeep well within the castle walla.
The Chateau ef Clisson, which belonged to the
Lescurcs (now to the La Rochejacquelins). and
was the rendezvous of the Vende*ns, wa» situated
near Bressuire, on edge of the Bocage. It was burnt
down by the republican troops under Westermann.
The prison cells and oubliettes of the castle, with
the hooks from which the victims were suspended,
may still be seen.
The Garennc, a tastefully lail-.,ut park, on the
banks of the Moine, embellished with statues,
grottoes, Ac, should be visited.
From Clisson the road may be fol!owed to Torfott,
and thence excursions made to Chollet, Mortagne,
and Chatillon, all famous localities in the Vendean
wars. In former times this country was covered
with wood and intersected with narrow lanes and
heAjc.n, behind which the peasant soldiers fought
n iTiiin st the rcpubl lean troops. The whole country
was devastated In the war, the woods burnt, andthe
bodges thrown down. There is scarcely an old-look-
ing house in La Vendee.
Toil OH, a small village, famous for the sanguinary
battle and victory gained by the Vendeans overthc
forces of Klebcr, the renowned army of the Maine.
Near Torfou is the monument set up to mark the
battlefield. It bears the names of the Vendean
generals. A short distance from Torfou is
Tlfl&tlgOS, a small village on the brow of a hill
over the river. There are some remains of the old
Castle of Tiffaugcs, the residence of the Marechal
Cillcs do Rctz, the Bluebeard of France, a famous
soldier, bnt still more famous criminal, of the
fifteenth century.
He had Immense possessions, and kept up several
castles with great state. Impoverished by his ex-
cesses, he had recourse to the black art, and studied
•ny under Antoine de Palermo, Jean de la
ind Prelati ; the latter persuaded him that
at ions were not complete without theJblood
Mldren. Accordingly the country round
his chateaux was ravaged, and whole families
carried off and murdered by the emissaries of
De Ketz. At length he was brought to trial at
Nantes, and condemned to be burnt to death. He
waa, however, in consideration of his rank,
strangled, and his body passed through the flames.
He had pot to death many women, and more than
ICO children, with his own hands.
Mortagne is another small village on the slope of
a hill, famous also for its share in the heroic defence
of the altar and the throne by the Vendeans. It
was entirely destroyed, but has since been rebuilt.
Chollet, once destroyed by the republicans, is
a rising manufacturing town. The royalists were
here fatally defeated by Kleber, although they
had been victorious a few days before over the
troops of Vesteraianu, at Chatillon. The memoirs
of Mad.imc de la Rochejacquelin should be read
in connection with the history of La Vendue.
Conrcspondance to and from Mortagne.
BotihIohi B.
Down the Loire by steamer to Paimbceuf and S.
Nazairc; the latter of which may be reached by
rail from Nantes. A trip down the rtver will give
the voyager a good idea of the magnitude of
Nantes, the extent of its quays, and the enterprise
of its inhabitants. • The turbulent stream, swollen
in the rainy months, brings with it vast alluvial
deposits which have almost choked its bed. Conse-
quently, but few vessels can come up to Nantes,
though a canal has been specially constructed;
the largest are obliged to stay at
8. Namire (Stat.) Buffet at Station. Hotel:
Dea Messageries. It is 40 miles below, where fine
floating docks have been constructed. In exca-
vating the docks, which have an area of 50 acres,
there were discovered, at a depth of 12 feet, Roman
remains, pottery, and a bronze coin of Tetricus (or
Tiberias?); 6 feet below these there was a stratum
of gravel on which was lying a number of neo-
lithic skulls and human bones, two bronze swords,
a polished stone celt haf ted in a stag's horn, dag-
gers, and utensils, together with stone and bone
implements, numerous stags antlers, and the bones
of the Bos longifrons, aurochs, stags, and of the
w ild boar ; a quantity of coarse potter}*, and some
heavy perforated triangular stones for mooring
boats; also the trunks of large trees, tome of which
Ttoute 11.]
PARIS TO NANTE8— GUERRANDE— LE CROISIC.
had been squared. Each successive stratum was
.composed of alluvial deposits from the rivers Brivet
and Loire. There is still, in one of the small
squares of S. Nazaire, a dolmen "in situ." The
Norse invaders used to come up to Nantes in vessels
which were little better than large coracles. The
voyage takes now about 4| hours. On the lie Indret
will be seen important foundry works belonging
to the French Government. Here are built the
marine and land steam engines, Ac. The works are
fitted with the most recent means and appliances.
In places the Loire reminds one of the Thames
and the banks are similarly adorned with villas
PalmtXBUf (Stat.) is reached in three hours b * th * ng ' The ]
and is an interesting old town, but la quite put in I m,rth -P rovokin S-
the shade by 8. Nazaire, on the other side of the
river. Diligence daily, in the summer season, to
Pontic {Hotel: De France), a somewhat fashion-
able watering place, with a casino and other
agremem. The coast, however, is low, and every-
where abound the saltpans, which produce the
staple commodity of the country.
From PaimbcBuf the steamercrosses to 8. Nazaire.
Guerrande, or Ouerande (Stat.). Hotel .- Du
Commerce (fair). A little out-of-the-way town,
but formerly a very important place, with a strong
castle, built by John V., Duke of Brittany. Here
was signed the famous treaty which placed the
Montforts on the throne, and led to the expulsion
of the English from Brittany. Part of the old
castle still remains, and a curious old church, having
an exterior pulpit on the West front. This town
is lighted with gas made from turf taken from
the bogs of the "Grand© Briere."
On the roadside, half way beyond Guerrande and
Saille, there is a hill of granite named Cramaguen,
having on its rooks numerous holiow basins, with
nn opening on one aide, similar to many other* in
Brittany, and which have been described as alters
•with basins to receive the blood of the victims,
and having an opening to run it off; but the
basins prove to be hollows left in the rocks by
quarrying querns or millstones. One of the quoras,
which had been cut round ready to be raised
remains, it having been abandoned owing to the'
grain of the stone running cross ; the opening at
the side was evidently for the purpose of intro-
ducing wedges below the quern to raise it up.
99
There are some rooks, between Guerrande and
S. Sebastian, where similar basins are seen,
and where also two querns had been cut round,
ready for lifting, but had been left; fortunately
bo, as they show how querns were manufactured.
The country beyond Guerrande is cut up by
dykes and banks into reservoirs, for the manu-
facture of salt, by the evaporation of sea water.
The saJtmakere are a class apart, and are said to
be descendants of the Norman or Saxon invaders.
There is good shooting about the coast, and
many persoas resort to it from Nantes for sea
bathing. The races, on the sands, are very
Le CroisiC (Stat.) Hotels: Guillore- and
d Anjou. Pension Jeanne, a boarding house at
moderate charges. Another curious old town
long fallen into desuetude, but lately revived as a
fashionable watering place, by the Nantese, and
embellished with a Casino, <fec. The sardine fishery
is carried on here to a large extent, but not so
successfully as on the coast of Lower Brittany
The coast about Croisic is somewhat bold and
rocky, but further west it is low and sandy.
From Croisic may be seen Isle Hasdic, and on
the horizon, about 25 miles off, the barren crags
of Belle He, famous in English naval history
and Dibdin's songs. It was taken by Admiral
Keppel, in 1761, but it had previously been a bone
of contention in the twelfth century, between
the monks of Bedou and Quimperle", who came
to blows about it. There are a few small towns
upon it, named Bangor, Locmaria, and Palais
(Hotel: De France.) A steamer touches at the latter
port between Lorient and Nantes. On the south-
western side of the island is a magnificent light-
house. The citadel of Belle Isle is now used as a
reformatory. At 3 kil. to the 8. of le Palis, there
is a fine reservoir. " Beile-fontaine," said to have
been constructed during the English occupation
for watering the ships of the blockading squadron'
It is now in a dilapidated condition. There were
formerly numerous megalitWc monuments here
tat they have all been broken up except two'
Menhirs, called Jean H Jeanne de Kerkfdan, one
16 ft. long, still upright. Thueis ia also a fallen
one, near the Moulin de Gouch. A steam-
Auray (4f.) on Monday and Friday; also
duiiy to Qaiberon (1 hour), at 6 and 10 a.
/r
100
BKADSfgAW'g BRITTANY.
[Route 12.
From S. Nazaire, the railway should be taken '
oack to H antes ; the country is very pretty and
open. There are several small stations, bnt the
only place of any note Is Savenay (Stat.)—
Passengers to 8. Nazaire usually change trains
here. Buffet. It has a triste souvenir attached
to it, as being the scene of the final defeat and total
destruction of the Veadean army, in 1798. After
passing the Loire, as we hare seen at 8. Florent,
the Royalists suffered tremendous defeats at Le
Mans, and vainly endeavoured to embark at
Granville, and then to recross the Loire at
Ancenls. Foiled in both attempts — their
numbers reduced from 80,000 to about 10,000,
many of whom were women and children — they
attempted to escape into Brittany, but were
overtaken at Savenay by the Bleus and nearly
all cut to pieces. La Rochejacquelin escaped
with a few followers, and maintained a guerilla
warfare; but the hopes of La Vendee perished
at Savenay.
Excursions up the Erdre, a very enjoyable trip.
A steamer leaves Nantes for Nort daily In
summer. The river presents the appearance of a
lake for many miles up. Several chateaux are
seen on its banks, and the people of Nantes amuse
themselves with boating.
At Nort the river suddenly contracts, and the
railway should be taken to La Mellleraye, 10
miles, and to Chateaubriant, 20 miles; at the
former place is a convent of Trappist monks,
who keep up the rules of their order with great
apparent strictness. Visitors are readily admitted
and hospitably entertained.
Nantes may be reached by rail by passing
through Laval, Segre*, and Chateaubriant; but the
distance is rather greater than through Le Mans.
Laval (Stat.)— Hotel*: De Paris; de France;
de l'Ouest. This town, with a population of
30,374, is situated in a picturesque valley, on the
Mayenne. The modern town is handsome, and has
some well-built quays; in the older part, near the
cathedral, the streets are narrow and confined.
8egTe) (Stat*) — Hotels: Beaurepaire ; Croix
Verte. A pretty little town of 8,551 inhabitants,
A on the river Verze'e, not far from where
the Oudon, whence it becomes navi-
boats. It is a plaee which gives one
the- idea of having seen better times ; It has a
nice shaly walk. On the ruins of the Chapel of
8t. Sauvcur (11th century) an elegant chapel has
been built, dedicated to St. Joseph. Very few
vestiges remain of Its ancient fortifications, which
formerly surrounded the town.
Chateau Ckmthier (Stat.) — Houn : De
rOuest; du Dauphin. Built on the Mayenne,
which is here crossed by a modern stone bridge.
It is situated in a pretty valley, and has an
agreeable promenade named "Le bout du monde.''
The country is well wooded, and there are springs
of mineral waters which are reputed as being
tonic, aperient, and diuretic. The church of St.
Jean (llth century) has a remarkable crypt.
Population, 7,281.
ChAteaubriant (Stat)— Hotel*: De la Poste:
du Commerce. An interesting little town, with
a population of 6,523. It was formerly a frontier
town of Brittany; the walls and part of the castle
remain.
The Ch&teau is celebrated in history as the
residence of the unfortunate Francoise de Foix
(formerly mistress of Francis 1st) and her hus-
band, the Count of Laval. It was here that a
meeting of the States of Brittany took place in
1532, when Brittany was ceded to France. Fran-
cis, to repay the hospitality of the countess, gave
her the estates of Rhuys and Sucinio. There is
now railway communication from here to Rennes,
Vitre*, Angers, Nantes, and Plogrmel ; and on to
La Brohlniere, whence a line will run to Dlnan
and Dinard.
ROUTE XIX
RENNES TO VANNES.
By railway, 78 miles.
Rennes (Stat)— See Route I.
There is little to remark in the scenery through
which the railway passes. The country is fine,
rich, nndulating pasture land, and here and there
are scattered villages, very primitive, and very
dirty.
Baln-Loheae (Stat.) LoMac, which divides
with Bain the honour of being a station, had once
a seignorijl castle, and its lords ranked with the
Beaumanolrs and Clissons.
Route 12.]
KENKES TO VAXNE8— KEDON — MALANlAC — TLVEN.
101
1
(Btfti.) There are two menhirs, lift,
high, near the Chateau de Molliere. Eleven
kilom. from Messac is the commune of Piprlac ;
8 kilom. to the south of this is the Lande of Cojou,
where is a series of megaliths, viz., two align-
ments, orientated east and west, in length about
160 yards, several tumuli and dolmens, a crom-
lech, and also some stone euclosures.
F0U£6ray-Lang0n (8tat) Fougeray also was
a place of note during the Wars of Succession,
as the scene of one of Duguesclin's exploits.
It is said that he went to the gate of the castle,
a single round tower of which still stands,
disguised as a woodman, and having obtained
admission with his cart of wood overturned it
in the castle gate so as to prevent its being closed.
His companions, who were in ambush, rushed on
the guard and overpowered them ; the castle was
taken, and Pembroke, the English governor, slain.
Diligence daily to Nort; omnibus to Foug-eray-
Langon (Sta.)
Bedon (Stat.)— Hotels: De Bretagne; Lion
d'Or. A curious mediaval-looking town of 6,929
inhabitants, is situated at the junction of the
canalized rivers, Oust and Vllaine. The name
is evidently derived from the Rhedones. As early
as 814 there was a Bishop of Redon, Convoion,
set up by Nomenoe*, in opposition to the rest of
the clergy. Here the Orleans and Ouest systems
meet, and carriages are generally changed. A
Buffet at the station. Correspondence daily to
Plogrmel at 9 a.m., 4 francs 60 cents.
The old abbey was a very rich and powerful
foundation, as may be seen from the ecclesiasti-
cal buildings which remain. The Chateau de
Beaumont is also worth a visit. After leaving
Redon, the railway passes over the Vilaine by a fine
bridge, and runs through an uninteresting country
of lande* and brushwood. There are several
places of note on each side of the line, but none
within sight.
Milium C (Stat.)— Hotel: De la Oare. A
conveyance meets the train at this station, and
runs to the carious old place of Rochefort-en-
Terre (Hotel de la Croix Verte), amidst rocky
scenery, with many picturesque old houses of
the fifteenth and siateenth centuries; with a
ruined castle, an old church, and narrow, crooked,
and precipitous streets, like the Jersual, at
Dinan. It may be termed the threshold of the
immense Lande* of Lanvaux, which are literally
covered with raegalithle and Roman remains.
Among the former are Pierres-a-bassin, tumuli,
Grottes-anx-fles (Fairy holes), and menhirs.
No traveller should attempt to explore these
" landes" without a guide; and he would do
well also to provide himself with Doctor Fou-
quet's book, which is mentioned under the head
of "Vannes." Among the principal megalithie
remains worth visiting are the following:--
"Chapeau Rouge," a menhir near the Forest
of Brambien. A Grotte-sux-fles, 42 feet long,
at the village of Carhon. The Roche Bcgiie,
a menhir, and a Pierre-a-bassin, on a mound called
La Roche es Chaletins, near the village of Plu-
herlin. An enormous Pierre-a-bassin, placed on
the top of a mound which is surrounded by men-
hirs; it is near Plevcadeuc, and is called the
M Butte de Brltiii." The Roche Me'ha is also
worthy of a visit; a large proportion of these
stones has been mutilated.
Half a mile from Rochefort is the village of
Pluherlin, where, in 1866, a Roman Temple of an
octagonal form, was dug out, the only one of the
kind ever brought to light in Brittany.
Questembert (8tat)— Hotel: Liond'Or. This
town is situated on rising ground, 1} mile from
Station. Population, 4,102. There are sevc.l
houses of the 16th century here, wi:h curious
carvings; a chapel in the Cemetery is said f> have
been built by the English. Severui stone crosses,
in the neighbouring country, were erected a.d. 880,
to commemorate a great victory gained by the
Bretons over the Normans, the former being com-
manded by Alain le Grand. Correspondence to
MnziUac at 10 a.m., 1 franc 50 cents. To go on to
La Roche Bernard (10 kilometres) a carriage will
have to be hired at MnziUac; there is a diligence,
daily, at 1 p.m., from the former to the railway at
Pont Chateau. The rail from Questembert to
PloSrmel and on to La Brohiniere, on the main
line, is now open.
Elyen (9UA.)— Hotel : Lion d'Or. A small
town with an old church ; but remarkab 1 *
grand tower of the Chdteau of Lar
The ruins which lie around this do
102
BRADSHAW's BMTTAKT.
[Route 12.
ancient than the tower itself, which dates farther
beck than the end of the fifteenth century. The
old castle was destroyed by order of Anne of
Brittany, to punish a rebellious Baron of Male- i
strait or Bieux, who puaaimiid ft It was the '
residence for many years of Henry of R i c hm ond
and the Earl of Pembroke, his uncle. They |
were thrown upon the coast of Brittany, in a
storm, while flying from England, after the Battle
of Tewkesbury, and taken eare of by Francis IL,
Duke of Brittany, A-D. 147ft. Edward IT. of •
England entered into an agreement with the i
Duke that he should keep them at Elren, under ;
compulsory hospitality, to prevent their being '
troublesome. Richmond stayed here till Ms success-
ful descent upon England, in 1484. Elren is better
risked from Vannes, as it lies wide of the rail-
Near Elren is the rfilage of St. C&ristophe,
where, in 1842, the remains of a Roman Villa
were brought to light. Here were found a key,
a hook for fastening a cloak, and a patera, all of
bronze; also a medal of Claudian, and pieces of !
pottery and glass. Hear this place was dug
out a Roman military boundary stone; it is 6 feet
long, and bears the following inscription : —
HAGVO. rXP.OiBS. AVBELIATf.nrviCTO.TBIB.rOT.
III. P.F.P.A.D.IL.
It is now in the Museum at Vaunea. There are
numerous megalithic remains in this neighbour-
hood; especially near the Tillage Des Princes,
where is the rocking stone of La Roche Bluet.
Vannefl (Stat.) Population, 19,280. Hotels:
Dauphin; de Prance. This ancient and im-
portant city played a prominent part in the
history of Brittany. As the capital of the ancient
and warlike tribe of the Veneti,* it was early dis-
tinguished by its opposition to the Romans,
who destroyed it to its foundation; and it
rose from its ruins only to be the incessant
object of attack in every invasion and party
quarrel. In the middle ages the Counts of
Vannes held equal rank with those of Nantes
and Rennes, and many of them were Dukes of
Brittany up to the eleventh century. During the
latter part of the War of the Succession, Vannes
me of some hard fighting between the
'nglish, according to Froissart. The
thrive tab
i* from Qwasee, tk»
force sent by Edward HL to the Montforts,
the Earl of Salisbury, took Vannes, but it
retaken by the French, under DngueseUn, and
Robert of Artois died of his wounds received here.
Large ai miss, under the English and French kings,
took the field here; but a truce was brought about
before they came to an engagement. It was at
Vannes that John IV. treacherously seized Clisson,
of whom he had become jealous, and stripped him
of his possessions. The tower called the Tour du
ConneHable is erroneously said to hare been the
scene of this incident. He was imprisoned in the
tower of the Chateau de THermice.
The Museum of the Socie'te* Polymathique, which
contains the various articles found in the tumuli
and barrows of the Morbihan, is remoTed to
No. 8, Place des Lices; it is on the second storey,
and a fee of 50 cents, is paid by each person for
admission to this most interesting collection. Here
are the splendid necklace found in the Mont S.
Michel at Carnac; also a collection of Gallo-Roman
remains, consisting of arms, pottery, and coins.
Vannes is a picturesque old city, with much
of the old character of a fortified place. "
The walls are machicolated, and pleasant pro-
menades run round them. The streets are narrow
and ill»pared; the bouses antiquated, and of a
tunible>down appearance, wish overhangirjgstof^ys .
and timber frames ; and the Cathedral towers over
all with a u gloomy and grand " sort of oppressive-
ness. The east end of the cathedral is circular,
and there are very fine earrings both inside and
out. The flying butUesses hare a very fine effect.
In its restored west front, the earrings of the great
doorway, pinnacles, Ac-, in Kersanton stone, con-
trast well with the granite. The Fete of St. Vin-
cent Ferrer, the patron of this eity, whose bene*
repose in the Lady Chapel of the Cathedral, la
celebrated with great pomp on the first Monday
in September. At No. 19, Rue da Meneo, is the
entrance to a convent church (closed aftermid-day )
with much carved work, all done by the nana.
Correspondance dally, to Locmine*, at 10 a.m.,
2 francs 50 cents. Carriages for excursions may
be hired opposite the Hotel du Commerce. To
Elven, 8 francs : toRhuis, 12 francs; to S. Anne
<T Auray, 12 francs; to Arzon and Pen Meil for
Route 12.]
BBNNES TO VASKE8 — VANNRS.
103
He aux Moines, 5 francs, including return journey,
but a gratuity has to be paid to the driver.
Ferry from Pen Meil to He aux Moines.
Good Maps and Guide Books to the Morbihan
may be obtained at R. Galles, Rue de la Prefecture,
which it the beat place to apply at by those who
interest themselves in the antiquities of the Mor-
bihan.
As regards provision*, the excursionist will do
well to carry them in the carriage, as, except in
places where we have indicated the existence of
inns, there is little chance of getting eatables fit
for an English traveller.
Two small steamers leave Vannes daily for
various excursions in the Sea of the Morbihan,
returning the same day; also to Locmariaker
three times a week. Fares: To He aux Moines,
1 franc; to Locmariaker, 2 francs.
In the Bay of Rogue*das ,* near Vannes, there is
a vein of jade between the granite and the gneiss
rocks which runs down into the sea; its colour is
grey, with light green patches; its hardness and
tenacity are such that it resists almost the best
tempered steel implements. It was analysed by the
Count deLimur, who pronounced it to be identical
with that from New Caledonia, it having precisely
the same density.
Vannes may be reached also from Nautes (Route
XL); by railway from Savenay to Redon, by
PontchdUsau(Stai.J; or by the old diligence road,
through La&OCae Barnard, and over itssplendid
Suspension Bridge across the Viiaine. This bridge
is said to resemble the Menai suspension bridge,
and, indeed, somewhat exceeds it in length and
height above the water.
Length of Jtoete-Bernard Bridge—
From pier to pier-..-.. .~_...~ 626 feet.
Of Menai Bridge — . «0 «
Height of road-way above high-water—
Rcehe*Renuurd ..«..~..™~~~.» 108 feet.
Menai .«^....^«..»w^-^— •••^~ 'w ♦♦
The reformed religion was first introduced into
La Roche-Bernard by Coligny, to 1*1, who
brought with him a Calvinist chaplain. His
Chateau became the rwidearois et the reformers;
• BotkelBada. (B raid — » ■
and the first Protestant service was held at the
chapel of Notre Dame in 1561. From here it
spread to Guerrande, Croisic, PloSrmel, Rennes,
and Vitrei The same year tho Sleur do Hirel was
publicly married in the Church of La Roche
Bernard; being the first Protestant marriage
celebrated in Brittany. In 1S63 a Protestant
Synod was held there, at which fourteen clergy-
men were present. The Inn is only opened occa-
sionally. In 1689, James II. of England, when on
his way to Brest to join the fleet which Louis XIV.
had assembled thereto assist him, visited La Roche
Bernard, where he was entertained by the Due de
1 Chaulnes.
Near La Roche-Bernard, the little village church
of FSrel has a magnificent painted glass window.
At the little village of Guerno is a church
having on its exterior front a stone pulpit "k
nid d'hirondello," to which the preacher ascends
from the interior by steps cut in the wall ; it is
used for preaching during Lent and on high
festivals, the hearers standing in the churchyard.
These pulpits are very rare; there are only two
of the kind in Brittany. The architecture of this
deplorable looking church, built 1670, is a singular
mixture of Roman and Renaissance of which there
is not another example of the same style in the
department. Its bell tower is elliptical.
The road passes through MuMiUae, a small
country village famous in Breton writings for a
pitched battle fought here between the scholars of
Vannes and the Imperialist troops during the
tent jours. It is described with great animation by
Pitre ChevaMer. Very pretty views are obtained
of the Sea of Morbihan to the south, and a fine
wooded country to the north, before entering
Vannes. Correspondences daily to Questembert, at
1 pan.; 1 franc M> cents.
Several excursions should be made from Vannes,
which Is in the neighbourhood of a multitude of
objects of historical and archaeological interest.
The Museum of Vannes contains many interesting
relics of the Druldical and Roman occupation.
Excursion A,- -Down the Sea of Morbihan to
visit the Islets of Conleau, He aux Mo*"'*
d'Ara, and Gav'r Innis. This is a most
sail. On Boued are a few megallthic *
f
104
is cMnectod with the mainland by a
causeway, which is reached bj aa agreeable walk
on the right hash of the river; distance,, 4 hil
The Vasmes ateamers call here, and a
runs to ft from opposite the Hotel da
fare, 40c
There are several Dohnrws on the IleamzMoima,
namely: Aae-Kreu, AVrsa, /feseap, Ra h -Hiktrn,
JfihoL, and two at iVa 90*1; only Penhap and
tboae at Pea Kiboi are remarkable. The former
bat lacked on the left support of It* entrance a
sesJptere rescanning an aacia; the chamber of
the Utter baa one aide circular, and forma with
JU aDee a ground plan reaembliag the capital
letter P; the othera are mostly in rains except
"SihoL Near Kergona* is the finest cromlech in
the Morbihan; It la aemi-circalar, and baa within
it a farm-bouse and other buildings ; it is composed
of thirty-six menhirs of from « to 10 feet in height,
and from % to 6 broad, and its diameter ia 320 feet.
To get to the He anx Moines from Aoray, pass
through Bono and Baden on to Port Blanc, where
a ferry boat conreya passengers to the island.
The shortest route is from Vaunes, through
Arradon, on to the point of Pen Meil, where there
is also a ferry boat to the island. A boat can be
taken at Vannea direct, and on to Locmariaker,
if the tide ia farourable for the return voyage.
lie <FArs haa nothing remarkable, except some
ruined dolmens, and two cromlechs at Penerean
and Pen Mousse.
On OaVTr Inilll (Capri Insula, or Goat's Island)
la a cairn, or galgal, 170 feet long by 155 feet broad ;
it waa originally about 26 feet high, but, aa the top
part haa been removed, it ia now about 20 feet. It
haa also be«n hollowed oat, somewhat resembling
a volcanic crater. The entrance to the Allde Con-
vert* Is by tho aide, and partly below the level of
the earth; it ia aecured by an iron door, which is
kept locked ; application for permission to see it
must be made at the farm-house; an attendant
with lights will accompany. The charge is 50 cents
per head, but If only one person a franc. It was
opened In 1882, but the record has been lost, and
which were fonnd in it dispersed, with
of the fragments of four celts and
is, which are now in the museum at
[Route 12.
C feet
ADee, 41 feet
4 feet Cinches high
8 feet by 7 feet, and ft feet high; total length,
■early 50 feet. Twesrty-oce of the siate aapportin j
stones are sculptured; and one cat the floor forms
a step into the inner r handier, est the left
hand aide of which ia the stone, having three boles
which form two loops, and which have so great 1 y
puzzled all the arrhawlogiaU. None of the upright
atones baTe been removed, bat at the apper part
some loose stones and earth have been cleared
away, and a little light has been admitted between
two stones; but it is .perfectly insnaVient, and
therefore lights are absolutely necessary. When
the visitor baa seen the AUee he is expected to go
to the farm-house, there to enter his name in the
visitors* book; he will here be shown a sculptured
bronze crucifix of the eleventh century, which
was found amongst the ruins of a convent that
formerly existed on the island.
From the summit of the tumulus the visitor
will see, on looking to the south, a small islam!
just below him; it is named EI Lanic, or the He
du Tisserand. It should be visited to see a ston<;
circle (cromlech), on which the sea ia gradually
encroaching. The cromlech ia composed of sixty
menhirs, the greater part of which have fallen:
their medium height ia about 8 feet, but one that
had fallen and waa broken in two pieces ia 17 feet
long and 6 feet thick; thecircumferenceof. this circle
is 200 yards. When the tide is low another stone
circle will be seen which touches the former one :
together they form a figure of eight. Dr. Closma-
deuc examined these circles and found numbers
of flint instruments, broken celts, animals* bones,
and a great quantity of sherds of Celtic pottery.
It seems probable that El Lanic waa at one time
joined to Gav'r Innia, aa also that the latter was
attached to the mainland.
The proprietor of the island of Gav'r Innia ia Dr.
Closmadeuc, president of the Antiquarian Society
of the Morbihan ; he has a small summer residence
here close to the farm-house, near the landing-
place, where he and his family usually spend the
summer months.
Tho He Longue (Innis-hir), which is on the left
before reaching Gav'r Innis, has on one of its points
a galgal or cairn of rough atones heaped up, but Its
Route 12.]
REXXE8 TO VAHHES — MOBBIHAX.
105 1
chamber is quite blocked up. There is a sculpture
on one of the left supports of its allle; it is a
cartouche of a very peculiar description, and
unlike any that has hitherto been found in the
dolmens; it was discovered by Mr. Fergusson.
The sea weeds about these little islands are very
luxuriant, and zoophytes are abundantly found.
There is also good fishing.
Excursion B.— On foot or by voiture, over
a bad road, through the Peninsula of Rhuit.
By diligence to Sarzeau from Vannes, 15m.;
If. 25c; 2ghrs. Leaves Vannes 4 p.m., re-
turns next morning at 7. A carriage can be
hired at Vannes for about 12 francs. On the
road should be visited the Chateau of Kerlevenan ;
and at about 2 miles from it is the old CastlO Of
SU&niO, one of the finest ruins in Brittany. Its
position facing the ocean is grand and imposing,
but little calculated to keep out the enemy
ennui, atra cur a, or le souci, against which (as its
name imports, " Souci-n-y-est" or the "free from
care") it was built. The gateway is adorned
with an heraldic design, with two stags as sup-
porters. There is a fine vaulted chamber, and a
carved chimney in one of the apartments. The
towers are of earlier date than the rest of the
building; the embrasures for cannon being of
course, modern additions. It was originally built
a.d. 1250, by John I., Duke of Brittany, son of
Peter Mauclerc, as a country residence. Pitre
Chcvallier adds, that he made it the " Trianon "
of that wild period. Francis I. gave it to Fran-
coise de Fuix, Madame de Chateaubriand, as she
was called. Bichmont (Duke Arthur III), Con-
stable of France, was bcrn here a.d. 1398 ; he and
his father Duke John IV. started from here
together for the Crusade of St. Louis.
Sarzeau is a small village in no way remarkable
but as possessing a quaint old church, in which
is a Norman pillar, and as being the birth-place of
Allaln Rene' Le Sage, the author of "Gil Bias."
Hotel Thlbaut ; conveyance 7f . There is also a
correspondance to Port Navalo, 1 Jf.
Near Sarzeau is the remarkable tumulus called
the Butte do Tumiac. This was opened, in 1853,
by Dr. Fouquet, by making a perpendicular
cutting from the south towards the centre, and
working in a northerlv direction. When near
the middle the workmen came on a rough, dry.
stone wall, from which they removed some of the
stones, which revealed the existence of a chamber.
When entered, the existence of two chambers was
evident — an inner chamber composed of three
upright slabs of granite, which formed the three
sides ; it was roofed over by a flat slab of quartz ;
the floor was paved with rough granite stones; the
spaces between the upright slabs were filled la
with dry, rough stones; the corners were held
together by two cross stones, which formed A
dove-tail.
The outer chamber was constructed entirely
of dry, rough stone walls at the sides, roofed over
by three granite slabs; the walls narrowed to-
wards the entrance of the inner chamber. The
following are the dimensions: — Breadth of inner
chamber, 7 feet; breadth of entrance, 4 feet 6
inches ; breadth of outer chamber, 6 feet. In each
of the corners of the inner chamber was found a
necklace of large beads, and one of small beads
at the entrance ; in the outer chamber were two
heaps of celts, one containing 15 large (2 broken)
and the other 15 small ones ; also a portion of a
parietal bone, and numerous fragments of decom-
posed wood reduced to a pulp. Large quantities
of this matter was found in both chambers ; the
celts and the beads were quite covered with it.
The end support of the inner chamber and one of
the side supports were found to have been sculp-
tured; the end one had on it a double row of cir-
cular figures, resembling two necklaces ; below it
an almost indescribable figure, which is a great
puzzle to the antiquaries; the other stone
had on it two parallel bars with a sort of hook at-
tached to each end; the 15 large celts were of
jadelte and chloromelanite,* mostly polished, with
sharp cutting edges; unfortunately, several of
them were found broken. Three of the highly
polished ones had holes perforated through them
at the pointed end. The smaller ones were all
of tremolite, the greater part of them intact.
The 120 beads found at the entrance were
small, round, with flat sides; they were of
jasper, and a few of agate; those found at the
* Chloromelanite, a dark green mioeral resemblir r
in it* cxystaline and fusible properties; at flr
appears to be black, bat if hi Id uo to a stronr
transparent and of a dark green colour.— Damn
f 106
BRADSHAW'S BRITTANY.
[Route 12.
south-west angle were large, circular, and nearly-
all of jasper, calals, and a few agates; one
of them was a rough crystal of quartz; there
were 40 of those. The necklace found In the
N.W. angle consisted of 120 large beads; tome
were quite an inch long, pear-shaped, as pen-
dants ; the others were round, with flattened sides ;
several of these were pierced at the sides, and not
in the centre. When strung together they formed
a necklace sufficiently large to hang down to the
middle of the chest. Many of these relics have
been transferred to the museum of Vannes. The
dimensions of this tumulus are — Circumference,
800 feet; diameter, 270 feet; perpendicular height,
62 feet. It is formed of three distinct strata—
First, of a series of micaceous rough stones and
granite, heaped up without any order whatever;
Second, mud and sand from the sea shore ; Third,
Vegetable earth mixed up with granite stones.
Unfortunately, a land-slip has taken place in the
cutting, and the entrance to the chamber is now
blocked up, although a few of the rough stones of
the walls of the outer chamber are still perceptible.
The view from the summit is very fine, extending
over the Sea of Morbihan, the Bay of Quiberon,
and the mouths of the Vilaine and Loire.
The Isles of Houat, Hredic, and Belle-Isle are
plainly seen ; and, inland, no less than twenty-
seven spires may be counted.
Near Croesty there is a galgal (cairn) named
Petit Mont, which was opened in 1865, by MM.
Cusse' and Gailes. It contains a dolmen, seven
of the stones of which have inscriptions on them.
On one is also sculptured two human feet with
toes, the only thing of the kind that has ever
been found in the megallthic monuments of
the Morbihan. Only one axe of diorlte,t with
a cutting edge at one end, the haft hole being
near the other end which was rounded, the frag*
ments of five ornamented urns, and some sherds
of pottery were found in it. The chamber of
this galgal is now almost choked up by rough
stones which, have been rolled down from above
by the shepherds and children; the consequence
is that only five of the sculptured stones are now
. t Dloxito U composed of smphibole and feldspar, wfavn
its component parts ate not visible it 1* called apaanite.—
visible ; one is quite buried and another has been
removed to the museum at Vannes. Several of
the covering stones of the Allec have been taken
away and used for bnilding a neighbouring
chapel. It is possible to arrive at this chamber
by alow narrow passage to see the interior.
Near Pen Castel (where there is a ferry-boat to
lie aux Moines) there is a fallen menhir, about
20 feet long; and not far from the village of
Bcrnon (before reaching Arzon) there is a tumulus
100 feet long, also a large dolmen, which still
retains Its capstone in place. Close to the village
of Le Net, and beyond Tumiac, are a dolmen and
two menhirs.
The monastery of S. Glldas de Rhui.8 lies a
little further on, near the sea, about 20 miles
from Vannes. Its remains are now a convent,
where, during the bathing season are received
boarders of both sexes, at the rate of five
francs a day. Wine, coffee, and chocolate
are charged for as extras. The charge for
children and servants is three francs per head. It
Is principally remarkable as the abode of Abelard,
who was superior to the monastery, till obliged
to fly in peril of his life. The Breton monks were
coarse and dissolute, their language was barbarous,
while Abe*Iard seems to have been refined and
haughty. The people regarded Abe*lard and He'loise
as sorcerers, the common idea of superior know-
ledge in those days. The monastery has almost
disappeared, but there is a fine old Church, with
transepts and apsidal choir. The tombs of 8.
Glldas and other saints are at the east end ; in the
choir there are five of Breton Princes of the 15th
century ; and some remarkable capitals hollowed
into fonts or benitiers, should be noticed. S. Glldas
was an English anchorite, who crossed over In the
sixth century,' and established himself on the Island
of Houat, which the Count de Guerrec induced him
to leave, giving him an old castle, on the site of
which he built the present monastery.
It is possible to cross over the Sea of Morbihan,
from Port Navalo (Hotel de la Marine), to Loc-
mariaker, and sleep at Carnac; but the latter
places are better visited from Auray.
Excursion C— Archaological. The local guide
books of Vannes will point out numerous objects
I of interest in the neighbourhood, which may be
Route 13.]
VANNE8 TO QUIMPEB — S. ANNE D AUR1T — A PRAT.
107
visited according to the time and inclination of
the tourist. The country all round is thickly
strewn with megalithic monuments, among- which
the pierres abassinsof GuerjGras-d'-O^Hesqueno,
Rohalgo, Coe*tsal, La Roche-Bmet, Roche-Morvan,
and Er Roch, near Bernas, and Cadoudal, may
be explored with interest.
route xm.
VANNES TO QUIMPER,
By railway, 75 miles.
The first place is S. Arme (Stat.;, or S. Ann*
d'Auray, a small Tillage, but one of the most
remarkable localities in Brittany, the church being
a chief resort for pilgrims.
Hottlt: Lion d'Or; De France.
Omnibus waits at the station to convey pas-
sengers to the village, 50 cents.
The railway station may be known from all
others by its being surmounted by a figure of
S. Anne. It is at about two miles from the Church.
The principal f&te days are Pentecost, the
week following S. Anne's day (26th July), and
the 15th of August. The Church was commenced
in 1866; it is a handsome edifice of the Renais-
sance style, and has a very lofty spire; the
western porch is much too small, which is a great
defect; the painted glass is good, but it is
modern; the whole of it has been given to the
cburch by pious pilgrims and various noble
families of Brittany ; the history of the finding of
the miraculous image is depicted on it. The
image of S. Anne is in the chapel of the south
transept, where there are always a number of
pilgrims, each of which has lighted his "cierge"
and offered it to (as she is styled here) "La Mere
de Dieu." The walls of this chapel are covered
with ex-voto offerings.
The Emperor of the French passed his fete day
here in 1858 to the great edification of the Bretons.
The church has its origin in a miracle; the statue
of 8. Ar.ne, which had been buried f orpine cen-
turies, being pointed out by herself to a poor
peasant in 1623. -
The entrance to the saored precincts is by a
carious gateway, over the arch of which is a groap
of marble figures, representing the apotheosis of
S. Anne. On high days mass is celebrated on an
elevated altar, approached by a Sancta Scala, in the
presence of from 20,000 to 30,000 spectators. The
pilgrims go up one staircase and down another
for hours together.
The Sancta Scala, In a separate covered build-
ing, is in imitation of that at Rome. There are
two flights of steps, with a platform between them,
having an altar and an open balcony; the pilgrims
ascend these steps (twenty-eight in number) on
their knees, repeating prayers on each ; when they
reach the platform further religious devotions are
performed at the altar; after which they descend
by the opposite steps. A black marble pillar bears
a small glass, under which are some small fragments
of stone, said to be from the Pillar of the Flagella-
tion, which the pilgrims kiss with great fervour
and devotion. From the open platform between
the staircases sermons are preached on great fes-
tivals; the pilgrims stand in the yard below.
The sacred spring is near the Sancta Scala,
on the opposite side of the road ; it is visited by
the pilgrims, some of whom, after certain prayers,
wash their faces with the water, believing that it
will protect them from disease.
The income derived from this church is so great
that it is called u the milch cow of the Bishop of
Vanncs."
Aura? (Btat.)— Buffet. Change for Pontivy
line and S. Brieuc, Carnac, Plouhamel, and
Quiberon. Hotels (at Auray) : Pavilion d'enhaut,
comfortable and moderate; Lion d'Or. A very
prettily situated town of 6,2*6 inhabitants. It
rises up precipitously from the river, and was
formerly a place of great strength. The belvc-
dere 1 or observatory, from which our view of the
country around was taken, stands on an elevated
plateau, on which was once the Castle of Auray.
It is almost 300 feet above the river. To the
right-hand the river rans away to the sea, through
deeply wooded banks. Eastward, in front of
the spectator, is the undulating and well wooded
country so eften traversed by the chivalry of the
middle ages. To the left, 3 miles off, is seen the
Church of S. Anne, and a little way up the river
are the Chartrrmte, the Champ des Martyrs. — '
the Expiatory Chapel. The level grow
/?
108
BBJLDSHlVs MUTT A* T.
[Route 13.
which the railway stands, about half a mile from
the town, was part of the plain on which the
Battle of Anray took place. The remains of a
Roman bridge are said to be visible a little below
the town. The name of the town is said by Brizieu
to be in Breton, ** Hall-Re"' or King's Palace.
The Castle of Auray must hare been a very
strong place. Froissart speaks of its rigorous
resistance to De Montf ort' s men, who were besieg-
ing it when De Blois and Doguesclin offered them
battle.
The great fight which settled the succession to
the Ducal throne took place on the 39th September,
1 864. The exact spot mast be sought where a little
tidal ditch intersects the plain of Tre-Auray.
Following the shady lane by the rivulet of Brech,
a granite memorial stone will be seen marking the
supposed site of the battle. Froissarfs description
of the battle is admirable, but too well known to
require transcription. On the side of De Blois
were Duguesdin and most of the Breton nobles,
while De Montf ort was much assisted by the pre-
sence of Sir John Chandos, Sir John Knollys, Sir
Hugh Calverley, and other renowned English war-
riors. The serried ranks of both armies were so
compact that, as he says, you could not throw an
apple without its falling on a bassinet or lance.
At length De Blois was taken prisoner, and by a
secret understanding among the combatants of
both sides, that no quarter should be given to the
principal if taken, an English soldier drove his
sword into his mouth. His dying words, says
Froissart, were, "Ha I domine Deus! " and he died
at once."
It is said also that during the battle a famous
greyhound belonging to De Blois deserted his mas-
ter, and making straight for De Hontfort, placed
hisforepawson his shoulders and saluted him as his
master. This incident gave rise to the adoption of
the greyhound as the bearing of De Montf ort. and
subsequently of Brittany, in which character it
appears in the allegorical group, set up at 8. Cast
in 1858, vanquishing and trampling on the British
leopard.
victory of Auray and the death of De Blois
4 the disputed succession to the Ducal
\ as we hare shewn (in the historical
the introduction) De Montf ort did not
enjoy it peaceably, and Duguesdin, when bis ran-
som of 100,000 livres had been paid, joined with
Clisson, and expelled the English from Brittany.
The ChartreuseConvent, a pleasant building, witli
shady walks, is now a deaf and dumb school . Close
to it is the Expiatory Chapel erected by the Duke
and Duchess of Angoulenie, and other Bourbons,
in 1828, to serve as a sepulchral monument of the
unfortunate prisoners from the Battle of Quibe*ron.
who were shot in cold blood on the " Champ des
Martyr*," near the spot marked by another small
Doric temple. Over the portal of the smaller
chapel are the words " Hie ceddarunt." It contains
many ex-voto offerings. Over the larger chapel
attached to the Chartreuse may be read, in
large gilt letters, "Gallia mcermt posuitr
In the interior is a large white marble monu-
ment, with sculptures of the landing and Battle
of Quiberon, and busts of Sombreuil and other
Chonan leaders. On the four sides are inscribed the
names of 932 emigre's ; of whom 210 were shot at
Auray, 311 at Vannes, 117 in the valley near
8. Pierre at Quiberon, and 4 in various places in
the Morbihan ; making a total of 643 shot. The
remaining 290 died from wounds or sickness, some
ending their days in England or Jersey, whilst
others were drowned at Quiberon.
In a deep vault under the monument are the
skulls and bones of the unfortunate victims of
political warfare. A lighted taper let down by the
guide reveals a ghastly heap of these relics of mor-
tality.
After leaving the Chartreuse there will be seen,
on the right hand side of the road to Brech, an
overhanging cluster of rock ; on its crest is a huge
block of granite, which appears as if it was sliding
down into the road. It has been in this position
for several centuries, and is a rocking stone which
may easily be set in motion, so well is it balanced.
It is not an artificial rocklng-stone.
A pleasant walk may be made from Auray to
Piougoumela^ distant 4 miles; passing over the arm
of the sqpat Bono, by a suspension bridge. A very
curious double cross will be seen in the Cemetery ;
and in the Choir of the Chapel of Notre Dame de
Bequerel there is a spring, celebrated for curing
diseases of the mouth. Such springs are to be
found in most of the country churches, or in the
Route 13.]
YAHXB8 TO QUIMFBK — AUBAY— -LOCMABIAKBB.
109
churchyards, where the people were baptised.
The churches were almost inrariably built over
the springs which they had previously used or
worshipped. There is not one of them but is
reputed to hare some miraculous or curatlre pro-
perties. Screral megalithic remains exist in this
district, including a menhir and several low
tumuli; one was opened by Mons. Le Bain (whose
house, Le Rocher, is near it). Its dimensions
are: -height, 10 feet; circumference at the base,
300 feet. The alle"e, which is curved, is SO feet
lung, 3 feet broad, and 5 feet high. Its further
extremity formed the sepulchral chamber; the
entrance is as usual to the south-east. There
are 13 capstones, standing on stone supports,
which hare been placed so near to each other that
tl.ey touch; the thirteenth support on the north
side has a cartoucb sculptured on it, somewhat
resembling those on the Pierrea Platte*, at Loc-
mariaquer. Two beads of dark jade, and one of
blue jasper, a flint knife, a celt of febrolite, and
three of diorite,. together with a flint arrow-head,
and a quantity of sherds of pottery, were found
here. The entrance to this is difficult, owing to
the displacement of one of the supports. In 1866,
Mr. W. LukU opened a low tumulus here,
which contained in it* centre a bronze bowl
of thin metal, which was standing on reed
matting; it was surrounded by incinerated human
hones. Two iron rings, each of about an inch in
diameter, were in the bowl, which latter was filled
with fine earth. In 1872, Mons. R. Galles, of the
Socie'te' Polymathique, opened a tumulus at Ker
Nox, its height was only 2 feet, and it was sur-
rounded by a stone circle; some of the stones were
missing, but the circle was well defined. The
chamber was found to the north, its floor was
5 feet below the lerel of the soil; the alltfe had
some stones across It before reaching the chamber
which contained two heaps (IS inches each) of
armillae, a spiral circle or torque, and a finger
r i ng, all of bronze. A second tumulus was opened
by Mr. Galles, its diameter was 20 feet, the height
4 feet; it had also a stone circle at its base; in its
centre there was a block of dry masonry, com-
posed ef rough stones; it was 9 feet long and 4 feet
C inches broad, and was continued down to 5 feet
below the level of the soil. At Us north-east end
a small crypt was found, which contained an up-
right copper urn, baring handles to it, also a cop-
per corer resembling an inrerted and deep circular
dish (the plates and the handles were well riretted) ;
it was standing on a bed of charcoal, being also
covered with a thick layer of the same. It was full
of incinerated human bones. Mr. Galles examined
two other tumuli not far from these, but it became
erident that they had already been opened. There
are, altogether, seren low tumuli here, situated
not far from each other; It is probable that they
belong to the late bronze or to the early iron
period. Nothing else of interest was found, but in
digging in Mons. Le Bain's garden a quantity of
bronze armillae was discovered, of precisely the
same pattern as those found in the tumulus.
w Carriages for Carnac and Locmariaquer (or
Locmariaker) can be obtained at the Parillon d'en-
haut for from 8 to 10 francs per diem. There is
no public rehicle whaterer from Auray to Loc-
mariaquer. A steamer starts from here for Belle
lie on Tuesday and Saturday. It leaves Belle lie
for Auray on Monday and Friday. Fare, 4 frs.
This is a pleasant excursion in summer. The
days are sometimes changed."
Excursions A.— From Auray to Locmaria-
ker by boat down the Auray River. To visit
Gav'r Innis boats can be hired at Locmariaker
which will carry four persons conveniently, but
as the tides are very rapid no boat should be
accepted that has not two boatmen. The
"Matre" of the place has fixed the fare at ten
franc*! but should it be desired to go on to Port
Navalo to visit Petit Mont, Tumiac, and the other
megalithic remains, the boatmen will expect a
higher remuneration ; in fact it will be more pru-
dent to come to an understanding with them before
starting, so as to avoid contention or extortion.
On the road from Auray to Locmariaker, and
after having passed the village of Crach, there will
be seen three dolmens to the left at Kergleverit ;
beyond these there are also three dolmens at Ker-
han also to the left; and at the bifurcation of the road
to La Trinite* (which Is opposite) there is one at
Kerango. Continuing, a ruined dolmen will be seen
to the right at Rerearodet, and another to the left,
at CoSt-Courso, the latter more inland. Further
on, nearly opposite to the Calvary of Kerverez is
r
112
BRADSHAW'8 BRITTAJfT.
fRoute 13.
it is craeked, and has sculpture on Its lower
surface. Not far from this dolmen, and lying
alongside one of the houses on leaving the Tillage
is a fallen menhir (broken in two) 22 feet long,
called Men-brao-sao, the 8tone of the Brave.
Pierrei PlatftB are immense flat stones close
to the sea shore, to the westward of Kerpenhir;
and are, in fact, a large allle couverte, approached
by a long gallery of vertical stones covered by
fourteen horizontal slabs; its whole length is 90
feet. It is bent, having an elbow at an angle of 46
degrees, and it has a side chamber. The extremity
is covered by a considerable capstone; a stone
partition forms an inner chamber, in which were
found some human bones. There are 14 sculptured
supports in this dolmen, three of which have cup
markings. This tumulus was opened in 1813, and
in the interior were found five stones, on which
had been cut some peculiar ornaments, each con-
tained within a species of oval framing; they are
circular and semicircular, with a globule in the
centre of each. One has sculptured on it in relief
a large fern leaf, a plant to which the Druids
attributed mysterious virtues. It has lately been
restored, and is worth a visit. It is classified as
an AUee couverte.
There are eleven other dolmens scattered about
the commune of Locmariaker in various direc-
tions, but they are mostly all in ruins and hardly
worth visiting, except Lecpdreh, which has cup-
markings on it. Near the chaptl of St. Michel are
traces of the foundations of a square tower; also
some Roman walls, known by the name of
»* erhastel " (the castle), and believed to have be-
longed to Roman baths.
Carnac may be visited from Locmariaker. By
crossing the ferry at La Trinite*-sur-Mer (Ker-
isper), which conveys carriages and horses, the
distance is about 7 miles, by a good road.— For
Gav'r Innis, see page 104.
Gav'r Innis.— Before crossing over to this
island it will first be necessary to ascertain the
state of the tide which runs here at certain times
with great velocity it will be advisable to leave
Locmariaker with the ebb rather before slack
water; for if a boat were to start with a strong
flood she would probably miss the island altogether
and be drifted up the Morbiban amongtt the
islands.
~i<m B.— Auray to Quiberon, Including
Camac.— There are two hotels here: Hotel des
Voyageurs, and Hotel des Menhirs ; conveyance to
the railway 50c. As it is next to impossible
to visit the whole of the Megalithic and Roman
remains in the neighbourhood of Carnac in one
day, visitors will do well to put up here for a
night ; they may be sure of clean beds. The quaint
old Church has a porch surmounted with a curiously
carved stone canopy, of sixty-four stones, cut out of
a single dolmen ; there is also a fountain, dedicated to
S. Cornelius, and adorned with a statue of that saint ;
but the great attraction of the place is the grand
Megalithic Monument, which lies within a mile of the
village. It consists of a vast number of upright
Stones, varying from 10 to 15 feet in height, ranged
in parallel lines (see page 23). These stones are
said to have been 11,000 in number (of which
3,890 only now remain), and the regularity of their
position has doubtless suggested the popular legend,
that they represent an army of pagans, who were
pursuing S. Cornelius and his Christian converts,
and were turned into stone by the prayers of the
saint. Endless conjectures have been made as to the
origin and purpose of this mysterious collection ; but
the truth is forced upon us, as Lowth says, u that
we have but a poor and limited glimmering of the
religion and government of that hierarchy which
ruled at some early period over the majority of
the human race." Many of the stones have been
used for building materials; but the fallen ones
having been set up, the avenues are sufficiently
distinct to mark out the plan of the whole, and the
effect is not less imposing than that produced by a
view of Stonehenge. These remains of antiquity
are now placed under public protection as a national
monument.
The whole country is commanded by a tumulus,
called Mont S. Michel, on which is built a chape)
dedicated to S. Michael, from which a mag-
nificent view may be obtained, and especially
of the megalithic remains, which extend across
the country in parallel lines. The medium
height of this tumulus is about 80 feet; its
base is 350 feet long by 120 feet broad. It is of
the kind called "galgal," and is composed of about
100,000 cubic feet of rough stones, which have been
piled up. It was opened at a great expense in
1862, by the Soclete* Polymathique. A sepulchral
- 113
«reup
Mur-
Tfctre
to. and
iOCOAO.
■ Win.
le lino
at the
le Jsey
; the
Unity
which
jquare
. 3ieet
le,ajid
ndants
arrow
horlof
s some
loons
e axe;
left on
allfe,"
i them.
ia«5of
nearly
wever,
other
.c has
at the
stop to
ng any
"1
x .ialf m
eleven
tremitj
of the*
sist o
one <
is thi
out ai
it out.
►-.
• FLU
usually
of it iu
rds the
Bide of
Tillage
left he
to tlio
•fferent
ly con-
id ones
losurc,
of the
:e is a
i» trans*
a sharp
^>
112 l r^==S:^BBBS±=^=te Ma i-^-4AMML.
it is craeki
surface. N
alongside on
is a fallen I *
called Men-1.
Plerrei :
to the sea a
and are, in f
by a long g
fourteen ho:
feet. It is b
degrees, and
is covered I
partition foi
found some 1
supports in
markings,
in the Inter!
had been cu
tained with!
circular and
centre of ea
a large fen
attributed n
restored, an>
an Allee com
There are
the commui \ '
tlons, but th
worth visit!
markings on
traces of th*
some Roma
»* erhastel "
longed to B<
Carnac m,
crossing th^
toper), whic I
distance is i t.
Gav'r Innis,
Gav'r Is
island it wil
state of the
with great v-
Locmariakei
water; for i
flood she wot
and be dril
islands.
— Route 13.]
V ANNE 8 TO QUIMPEB— *3A3NAC.
113
chamber was found near the centre of the galgal
(cairn) at a depth of 23 feet; it is 7 feet long, 5 feet
broad, and 3 feet high; its capstone, which was
found cracked, had seven cup-markings on. its
lower surface. This chamber has long since been
filled up, but its site is distinguishable by a circular
hollow, which is exactly opposite to the western
door of the chapel. The floor of. the chamber was
covered by a light earthy powder, and there were
found in various parts of it eleven exquisite jadeite
celts, two of which were perforated and one was
broken, one of chloremelanite, one of diorite, and
twenty-six smaller ones of fibrolite,* nine pen-
dants, and 101 beads of Calais — which unique
necklace, as also all of the celts, are now in the
museum at Vannes— thirty-nine bone beads, and
flint chips. In a smaller lateral chamber was
a small cist, containing the remains of human
incinerated and decomposed bones, as also some
charcoal; there was further a crypt, or smaller
chamber, below the principal chambers, also
containing incinerated bones and ashes, all of
which were lying on the granite rock. From the
great length of this cairn it is supposed to contain
more than one sepulchral chamber. An attempt
was made to pierce a horizontal gallery through it,
commencing- at its western extremity, but after
great labour, and having penetrated to about half
the length of the cairn, it was abandoned, leaving
the question of other interments undetermined.
At the foot of the cairn, and on its sooth side, are
.the remain s of a supposed monastery of the twelfth
century, which were brought to light by the late
Mr. James Miln.
Visitors wishing to see the megalithic remains
will do well to proceed to the village of Menec
<half a mile), which is built in the midst of the
eleven alignments of menhirs, their western ex-
tremity being terminated by a cromlech; the length
of these alignments is 1,260 yards, and they con-
sist of (the cromlech included) 1,169 menhirs;
one of these is remarkable, for if a stone
is thrown against it with force, it will give
out a strong metallic sound ; the guides will point
it out. The visitor should continue the alignments
across the fields until he arrives at another group
of large menhirs, and one ruined dolmen, at JCer-
mario t which is near the farm of Kftr'W^ Thare
are nine alignments extending 1,370. yards; and
consisting of 982 menhirs. The walls of a feoman
encampment were also found here by Mr. MUn.
After seeing these he should continue the line
of stones across the fields until he arrives at.the
tumulus of KercadO, opened in 1863. The Jsey
may easily be obtained at the Ch&teau; the
attendant will take lights, and expects a gratuity
A gallery leads into the inner chamber, which
is quadrangular, being nearly 8 feet square
and 8 feet high ; its alle'e is 23 feet long and 3 feet
broad. In it were found one colt of jadeite, qnd
one of diorite, seven Calais beads, three pendants
of schist, one ditto of agamolitef, one flint arrow
head, one flint knife, some flint chips, a -whorl of
steatite, the fragments of 15 vases and urns, some
charcoal, and sea shells. On the stone which f ocuis
the roof will be seen a large sculptured stone axe;
one of the stones which support it on the left on
entering the chamber, and another in the " all£e,"
have inscriptions of an angular character on them.
This tumulus Is near the terminus of the lines of
stones above mentioned, which extend over nearly
three miles; immense numbers of them, however,
have been broken up for building and other
purposes— indeed, the church at Carnac has
been entirely built of these stones, but the
French government has now put an effectual stop to
this practice, and persons detected destroying any
of them are subjected to a heavy fine.
The visitor should continue his walk towards the
east, across the pine wood, on the other side of
which he will see, on his right, the scattered village
of Kerlescan. Across some fields on his left he
will find thirteen lines of stones similar to the
avenues of Carnac, but running hi a different
direction. Their length is 336 yards; they con-
sist of 336 menhirs, including some detached ones
beyond. There is also a quadrilateral enclosure,
130 yards long, and 95 yards broad.
In the centre of a field on the north side of the
alignments, and contiguous to them, there is a
* Fibrolite, an anhydrous silicate of aluminium ; it is
usually of a mi'ky whit* colour, aud it is occasionally
t eioed or stw ked with various tints. Then are some rein s
of it in Btittauy.— Damur.
II
f Agamolite, a hydrous silicate of aluminium, it is trans-
lucid arid has a very fine grain, it is easily out with a sharp
instrument ;. it is of the following oolours— gw»«"
yellow, and white ; it is usually found 19 China
114
BRAD8IIAW*S BRITTANY.
[Route 13.
dolmen which was opened In 1848; it had two
chambers, communicating by an oval entrance,
nearly three feet high by 18 Inches broad,
which had been cut through the two granite
slabs which formed the division between the two
chambers. These have been removed, as also the
greater part of the stone, which has been utilised
for building. Each of these chambers wss 80 feet
long and ft feet wide internally. The entrance to
this dolmen was through an oval opening made
between two of its supports on the south side,
similar to the one which existed between the
chambers. Should the visitor feel disposed to
prolong his walk, he can return by striking
off to tha right towards the windmills on the
hill, and he will be rewarded by seeing three
dolmens on different rising mounds; two of
these have side, or inner, chambers ; he can after-
wards return to Carnac by the fait pans, leaving
the chateau of the Baron de Wolbok on his right,
and afterwards passing by the Bouenno, where the
Gallo-Boman Villa was not long ago disinterred.—
See note, page lift.
Before arriving at the Villa, he will see the
village of Beaumer on his left, where, on the village
green, he will find the capstone of a dolmen,
having on its upper surface numerous cup mark-
ings.
In the vicinity of La Trinite*, but to the north of
it, there are several dolmens which were examined
by the 8ocie*te Polymathique, in 1866. First, Mane*-
er-Roh, near La Vigie; it contained a flint knife,
a brown urn, having flint chips In it, a quantity of
sherds of pottery, and some vases. Second, one
near Kerdual, now in ruins. Third, one near the
Chateau du Latz, also in a ruinous state. Fourth,
Er-Boh, to the west of Kermarquer; it stands on
rising ground, and has an allee and a side chamber.
There were found, on its paved floor, a flint knife,
an arrow head, a burnisher, and a portion of a
wooden armlet; beneath the pavement was a
quantity of water-rolled pebbles of white quartz,
together with flint chips and sherds of pottery.
Fifth, one near Kervillor, now in ruins; its
capstone and the allec having disappeared, but
the chamber, which is square, remains. Sixth,
>o the north of Kermarquer, among the
shes; the northern one has a chamber
7 feet square, and an allee 12 feet long by 80 inches
wide; the capstone has fallen on its end into the
chamber. The second one is smaller, its capstone
also having fallen in. Only fragments of pottery
were found in these dolmens. Seventh, the
remains of a ruined dolmen at Pen-her. Eighth,
two dolmens on a mound near the river Crach.
and to the east of Kervillor, separated by only a
few feet, which makes it probable that they were
both originally enclosed in the same tumulus.
The northern one has a chamber 8 feet long, an
allee 13 feet long and 80 inches wide; it has 18
supports, but all its capstones are gone except one
over the entrance to the chamber. The southern
one has also lost all its capstones except one over
its allee, which hat also 18 supports; the latter is
14 feet long and 18 inches broad. These dolmens
are peculiar, being similar in form to the one at
Pen-Nihol, at the lie aux Moines. Two celts of
diorite, 8 flint knives, 8 Calais pendants and one
of schist, also a quantity of pottery were found
here. Ninth, two dolmens to the Wett of Keris-
per, now in ruins, and almost entirely concealed
by a boundary wall.
A visit should also be made to the Cemetery at
Carnac. On entering the gate a very curious
4 benttier ' will be seen ; it is made so as to contain
the holy water without the rain being able to get
in and mix with it; there are four holes at the
sides to introduce the hand. One of the peculiar
customs of the Bretons will here be seen: after a
body has been buried a certain number of years,
the bones are taken up and placed in miniature
coffins, having painted on them the initials of the
deceased, as also the date; many of these are
placed in the "reliquaire," but a large proportion
is piled up upon the graves of their rela-
tives who have subsequently been buried, the
superstitions belief being that the spirits of the
deceased are there present. To such an extent is
this superstition carried that the inhabitants be-
lieve that at the midnight hour the church is ct
times illuminated, when thousands of skeletons
kneeling in the churchyard reverently listen to
Death, who, robed in decent priestly garments,
preaches from the pulpit: many persons affirm
that they have seen the " ciergeV pale light, and
indistinctly heard the preacher's voice.
Route 13.]
YAXKES TO QUIMPBK— CAftNAC.
115 ^
The culture of oysters is carried on most
successfully near Carnac, in the river Crach, which
is being laid in "bassins" and " pares" for them
in every direction. The principal proprietors are
the Baron de Wolbok and Mons. Ezanno. The
Baron has at a great outlay enclosed a part of the
river with extensive works, where this bi-valve
is bred by millions annually; it will well repay
visitors to go to see them.
Proceed first to the Chateau de Latz (seventeeth
century), now a farm, quite close to the works. On
entering permission should be asked to visit them,
which will be politely granted, and pains will be
taken to explain the system, as also to show the
"collecteurs," which are formed by alternate rows
of curved tiles and boards tied together on a central
stick by wires; on these the spat is deposited, and,
as soon as the young oysters have grown to
nearly the sice of a shilling (one year old;, they
are packed in boxes and sent to various suit-
able places to be laid down in "pares," where
they grow to the proper size, which requires two
years more. It has been found that by trans-
ferring the young oysters to other waters they
grow much larger; the establishments in the
river Crach may more properly be called breeding
places, or nurseries for oysters.
A great Pardon, or Pilgrimage, is held here
annually, the Saturday and Sunday next before
the 16th September, or the festival of S. Gornelie,
who takes the farm cattle under his pro-
tection. Pilgrims flock to it from all parts,
and many bring with them a number of cattle.
The religious services and the procession to
the Fountain of S. Cornelie are imposing and
"bizarre." The pilgrims wash their faces and
hands in the water, and also drink some of it, in
the belief that it will protect them from disease;
and the offerings of money to the Saint are con-
siderable. The "tronc," or money box, in the
church is surmounted by a gilt bust of the 8aint,
having some relics under a glass set in his breast ;
it is quite three feet in depth. The pilgrims
devoutly kiss the bust of the saint on both cheeks,
but, as this operation would spoil the gilding,
the saint is on these occasions protected by a
glass case; so the pilgrims kiss two panes
of the glass instead, which possibly answers
quite as well. At this festival cattle are offered
as a present to the saint; after high mass they
are led in procession, headed by the banner of S.
Cornelie, to the fair field, where they are sold by
auction for the benefit of the church. They
usually realise high prices, and the fortunate pur-
chasers return with them joyfully to their homes,
believing that whilst they are in their stables, no
evil spirits can enter there, and that their cattle
will be protected from contagious diseases.
There is an "annexe" close to the church,
which has an image of the Saint over the door.
Here, at the time of the festival, are sold rope
halters for the cattle, which have been blessed by
the Saint, and sprinkled with holy water by the
priests. They are eagerly bought up by the pil-
grims, and as they have to be renewed every year,
it is easy to conceive what a great revenue the
Church derives from this source.
At other times, and usually about the hour of
11 p.m., women may be seen in the north
porch of the Church kneeling, and holding by a
halter either a sick cow or a pig. They pray
earnestly to the Saint to look down upon them and
to spare their cattle; and, as may be supposed,
some very absurd scenes occur on these occasions.
Truly it would seem as if Paganism still existed
in Brittany, with a thin film of Christianity over it.
When the "foot and mouth " disease prevailed in
Lower Brittany, in 1875, it was usual to see every
evening in the autumn, between the hours of 8-30
and 10 p.m., processions of cattle arrive at Carnac
from some distance ; they were walked round the
church and the sacred fountain three times ; some
of the water from the spring was poured over
them to heal them; others came to implore the
Saint that their cattle might be protected by him
and so escape this disease ; even horses and pigs
sometimes joined in these processions.
Distowry ef a Roman Villa at the Bouenno,
Carnac "In September, 1874 (a correspondent
writes), I was at Carnac with some friends,
amongst whom was Mr. James MUn, of Murie, a
member of the Society of Antiquaries.* When
* Author of " Excavation* at Carnac : a Beeord of Archae-
logioaJ BeMarchei in the Bowenao and the Mont tr "
(immt Carnac) published by D. Douglas, Rdms"
" Fouilles faites a Oaraac " *a elaborate west
116
BBADSHAW'S BRITTAKT.
[Route 13.
exploring the surrounding country, we found at
the •Boeeno,' about a mile from the Tillage, ten
'mounds in the fields, which were composed princi-
pally of atone, and overgrown with brambles. On
^enquiry, we 'heard of a tradition that there
formerly'had existed* a Roman town on that spot.
It -was, of course, Very vague. It *was further
stated that there was always a "revenant" about
'there; 'indeed, some people -would not, on that
account,' pass the spot at night time. A French
antiquary and painter, who Was there, also pointed
out to asthe remains of two small Roman roads (one
' eut through the roek), : which converged on that
point; after which; alt trace of them was lost. This
' seemed quite toeoirfirmthe general tradition. There-
upon, Mr. Miln decided, upon obtaining the per-
mission of the owners, to open one of these mounds,
which was accordingly done. Workmen were pro-
etrred, and Roman brleks were soon disinterred.
'* On the third day we came on the angle of a wall,
and by following up the trace we laid open the
complete foundations (in granite stone) of part ot
a Roman Villa, consisting of three rooms, the fire-
place being separate; and at the back of the house.
It was in a perfect state; the walls were 2 feet
thick, and well built, the floors were covered with
hydraulic concrete of lime and sea pebbles, and ap-
peared to be in as good a state as when first made.
In one of the rooms we found the marks of Are,
a s6rt of hollow being made in the floor purposely
for it, which was still black, and contained a piece
of charcoal. The wall evidently extended further;
of this we found traces, though it had been
destroyed by the plough, as land round these
mounds was under cultivation. Tn the Villa were
found pieces of pottery, flints, flint instruments,
glass, and animal bones; two Iron nails, which
were extracted eut of fhelcallt, one of 'which was
well preserved; besides a bronze ring: but no
coins or medals were found. Souie of the' bones
found in the rooms fell Into dust' shortly *fter
exposure to the atmosphere.
"A French savant ' and antiquary visited
our work, and pronounced it as beyond a
doubt that we had' disinterred a (JaUo^Roman
Villa of the secdtid century; he also classified
♦tery under the following heads: First,
the Celtic period, or time of the dol-
ii. . _ .
mens. It was coarse, and of a greyish blue colour ;
the flints and knife- were also of the same period,
but the former 1 were'*W<»e*\ and must have been
brought from the North of France, as none of that
kind is ever found in "Brittany. Secondly, pottery
of the Roman period. Thirdly, pottery and glass
of the Gallo-Roman period.
41 About the flrtf-place, at the back of the house,
"were found some' iron clinkers, which proved that
some of that metal had been forged here. The
head of a small etatuej in white ierra-cotta, was
also discovered. A great quantity of Roman
brioks and tiles were also found, some of them very
perfect. The tiles were flat, with ridges at the
sides, and dovetailed neatly into each other. A
curious fact was elucidated, vis., it was remarked
that two of the brick* and one of the tiles were
marked with the impressions of several little dog's
feet ; but in neither of them was the position of the
feet placed alike. It is therefore evident that the
dog had run over them whilst in a $ofl state; and
that they were afterwards baked, retaining the
impressions of this little dog's perambulations ; the
foundations of the walls' were about 3 feet deep in
the earth.
" Mr. Miln, who entirely undertook the manage-
ment and expense of this affair, aud to whom the
credit of the discovery is due, was most patient
and indefatigable in his investigations. We were
assisted by some intelligent * French gentlemen
and antiquaries, who most disinterestedly resolved
any doubts which might otherwise have existed.
These excavations were carried on by "Mr. Miln
during the spring and summer of 1876, and re-
sulted in bringing totigaUtyMeemplete buildings,
as well as tracesof the watts of- a supposed town ; in
fact, a street or square Was laid open to view,
having buildings on each side of it.
One was a very large house having nume-
rous apartments, the interiors of- some of which
were richly ornamented with coloured designs on
the piaster,-as also with pretty sea-shells ; attached
to it by a corrldorwas' a very complete-set bf baths,
in good preservation," consisting of apodyterium,
frigidarlum, tepidartum, caMarium,' sudatorium,
pratfurrtltxro; and hypocaust. The hist was* in a
perfect state of preservation, the heated vapour bein g
oarrfed up to the sudatorium and 'tepidartum by n
Route 13.]
VAtfNES TO QUIMPER — BOSSENNO.
117
^
series of well arranged earthen tubes; the discharge
from, the f rigidaxium was of good lead piping,
which was so firmly fixed in the indurated (red)
cement that it could not be removed without de-
stroying the place. The apodyterium, or dress-
ing room, had its. walla richly ornamented with
coloured design en piaster. A second long passage
from tills house conducted to. another building,
which was evidently a lararium for the family
lares, in the centre of which was found a
stone altar; the principal deity was missing,
but there were found here four complete
statuettes of Venus, and the heads of four
other subordinate, deities, in a good state of pre-
servation; also ttc* Latonas, each seated in an
arjn chair resembling wicker- work, and nursing
children. These statuettes (believed to be votive
offerings) were made, of a species of white terra-
cotta; a whistle was also found here made from
the tusk of the boar, and several coins and medals.
Another apartment had a complete system of
heating by means of flues built under tbe floors.
A blacksmith's shop was. also brought to light;
alongside of the fire-place there was found a bar of
unwrought iron ; the, vessel for tempering iron
was in good preservation. The walls of the
buildings generally were very neatly built with
small cubes of granite, dressed and cut to the
same size, and also courses of red tiles; tbe floors
of the rooms were either of hydraulic concrete of
lime, or a sort of teaaelatcd pavement of small
pieces of white quartz. The entry of the vestibule
was usually of red tiles The medals found, and
the masonry, fix the date of these buildings from
the second to the fourth century, but on digging
below the floors of the apartments to a depth of
from 4 to 6 feet, evidences were found of former
and older constructions, as also of pottery, 11
The* following is an outline of what was found
at the Bossenno in the year 18F5 :— ■
Coin*.— Twenty five bronze coins and medals,
the dates extending from the second to the fourth
centuries, including Antoninus, Marcus Aurelius
Gallienus, Victorinus, Tertricus, Constantinus,
Lucilla (coins of Lucilla have been found in Kent),
Gordianus, Constantine, and Maximian,
In Bronze.— A statuette of a bull, in a perfect
state of preservation, and well formed,; several
bronze rings, a dagger handle, and a finely per-
forated piece of that metal.
Jewellery.— A finger ring. set with a blue stone,
having engraved on it a species of quatie-foil
design. Amber heads, an amulet, several buckles*
and a triangular agrafe, the latter deokkdly well
and neatly designed.
In Iron. — A pair of compasses, two knives,* a
stout hook, the bar of a window, a great number of
nails of various sizes and variety, also a quantity-
of molten iron, and tomet sword blades.
In Glass. — A considerable quantity, some of which
was delicately thin, and having figured patterns
on it; it was, unfortunately, all broken.
In Stone.— Two polished Celtic hatchets, several
chisels and ether polished implements, also a dozen
rough ditto, a hammer, mill-stones, sharpening
stones, and a painter's palette.
Pottery was found in very great quantities;
Celtic, Gallo-Roman, as also a few good specimens
of the red lustrous ware called Samian; some of
the red ware had the maker's name impressed on
it still quite legible. The vases were. mostly of
exquisite designs and shapes.
In Bone.— Large quantities of bones of animals,-
teeth of the wild boar; tbe jaw bones, of the fox,
with teeth complete ; several pairs of stags 1 antlers,
some of which were large< also several l>one tools, .
highly polished and in a good state of preservation.
A French steamer of war brought a ship load
of the French Association for the Advancement of
Science to inspect these discoveries and scientific
researches. Subsequently, the members of the
Socie*te* Polymathique of the Morbihan also paid
the place a visit ; they so highly appreciated the
labours of Mr. Mrm thai they afterwards unani-
mously conferred on him the honour of member-
ship, which was conveyed to him in a very
complimentary letter. Further Roman remains
were brought to light at Carnac during a heavy
gale in January, 1877; the violence of the waves
washed away a portion of the cliff at Port-en-dro,
exposing to view tbe basement of a house, having
a bath attached to it ; and a little beyond it a kiln
for firing bricks and tiles. Several bronze Rornnn
coins were found here.
r>
113
BBADSHAW'ft BBITTAVY.
[Route 13.
Mr. Mtln most perseveringly prosecuted his
researches during 1877 and 187ft, and succeeded in
bringing to light :— First, near the Tillage of
Nignol, under a low tumulus 4 feet high and 50
feet in diameter, two concentric rings, or stone
enclosures, which had apparently been used as a
place for cremation; he found on the exterior of
the outer circle four urns, containing the remains
of human incinerated bones and indurated ashes,
also the fragments and the contents of sereral
others ; a flint knife, a stone mortar, and a muller
for grinding grain. Between the circles there were
seven urns, which also contained calcined bones,
indurated ashes, and some small flint instruments,
lu a few cases there were some iron nails resting at
the top of the bones and at the mouth of the urns,
which latter had been covered over with slabs of
slate; here were also found the fragments and
contents of sereral urns, a flint knife, a portion of
a bronze bracelet, and the. pieces of a wooden
armlet ; also a mortar. The inner circle contained
ashes and fine particles of charcoal ; but on digging
down deeply pieces of a red patera and fragments
of some black cinerary urns, together with half a
mortar, were brought to light. The diameter of
the outer circle is 25 feet; it is composed of eight
coarse* of dry masonry. The inner circle con-
sists of rough granite blocks coarsely put together ;
its diameter is 12 feet ; the thickness of the masonry
is 30 inches. A similar structure was afterwards
found at Coet-a-tonx, and with precisely the same
rssults. Beyond Nignol, and on the same side of
the road, on the heather, there are three circular
places for sepulture and cremation, within con-
siderable stone enclosures; these structures are
named Mftne*-ty-yeh, and Mane'-Pochat-en-Uieu.
Secondly. — A Roman camp of considerable di-
mensions in the direction of Kermario, having
a great number of fire-places in good condition.
A ifusettm has lately been built at Camac, which
contains the collection of antiquities made by the
late James Miln, F.S A.Scot., during his eight
years' diggings at Csrnac and the neighbourhood;
a chnrge of 60 centimes is made. The remaining
copies of Mr. Miln's works (see page 115) have
' »en sold out; it is probable they will never
red.
Plonharnel (St&t.). -A correspondence meets
the train and conveys passengers to Carnac (see
page 119 for hotels) for 50c. "At about 300
yards beyond this village, and on the left-hand
side on the road to Erdeven, will be found a group
of three dolmens, named Rondossec, each ap-
proached by a gallery; they were opened in
1850. The centre one contained only some broken
celtss, and a perforated stone axe of chlorome-
lanite, having a cutting edge at each end, and
the haft hole at the centre. On the second was
found, in the centre of the chamber, an earthen
vase, containing fragments of bones, cinders, and
charcoal, and two gold collars. This dolmen had
also an inner chamber, in which were found some
bones and coarse pottery. The third chamber
also contained some pieces of pottery, and a
large spherical vase, which, on being removed,
fell to pieces. The greater part of these were
preserved at the Hotel du Commerce; on the
closing of this they were sold and dispersed.
"At about half-way between Plouharncl and
Erdeven, at a little distance from the road, on the
right-hand side, is the village of COVCOUIIO,
which has in the midst of it the most colossal
Dolmen in the department. Including the gallery
(which no longer exists) it was 45 feet long; the
chamber is 25 feet long by 15 broad, and 9 feet
high in the interior; one of the covering flat
stones is 27 by 16 feet, and 2 thick. So great is its
size that it was used as a stable. At a short
distance to the right and beyond the village, amid
the heather, there is a quadrilateral cromlech of
large stones in the form of a parallelogram, which is
186 feet long by 96 feet broad. It is an exceptional
one, the usual forms being either circular or oval.
Beyond it, and to the left, on a rising ground, will
be seen the dolmen of Maiie"-Groh, which has
four sepulchral chambers, and an slide 22 feet
long ; some of its capstones have fallen in, and
others are missing; it is in rather a ruinous state.
Beyond it will be perceived the eastern end of the
alignments of Erdeven, the menhirs of which are
larger than those at the western extremity.
"In returning to Plouharnel across" the country by
the bye-roads, the dolmens of Mane' Remor and Le
Cozker will be found. The first is on a rising
ground, and may be seen from every direction ;
Route 13.]
YAKNBS TO QUIMPBK— PLOUHARNEL.
11*
from iti summit there is a very extended view of
the surrounding country; the latter is beyond the
Chapel of St. Antoine, and is situated at the
entrance of the Tillage. Continuing on the road to
Vieux Moulin, where there are four considerable
menhirs, two of which hare fallen, and six other
menhirs aligned, a path will be found which
debouches on the main road not far from Ron-
dosser. On the opposite side of the road to Cour-
conno, and towards the sea-side, is the Tillage of
S. Barb*, where there are three alignements of
menhirs, similar to those of Erdeven."
It was at this spot that the whole of the neigh-
bouring population assembled under the pro-
tection of the Chouan Chief, Georges Cadoudal,
after haTing been defeated by General Hoche, in
order to effect a junction with the "emigre's," who
had disembarked at Quiberon ; a few days after
General Hoche took possession of S. Barbe, and
all these unhappy people were driven to seek
shelter under the guns of Fort Penthlevre, which
was then occupied by the troops of the expedition ;
Heche established his head-quarters here, and to
completely blockaded Quiberon that Fort Pen-
thlevre capitulated to him. A small cottage at
Lenneiz was the one occupied by that general.
Nearly opposite to the Hotel du Commerce at
Plouharnel is a small crow road, in the right-hand
wall of which is built, in a large hewn stone, one
of the land marks of the Knights Templars. It
lias their crosses incised on its faces. It was sub-
sequently surmounted by a stone cross, which is
broken and has fallen. About 400 yards beyond
Plouharnel, on the road to Carnac, is the dolmen
of Kergavat ; a part of its alle"e has fallen into the
road ; its capstone has some cup-markings on its
surface.
Just before arriTing at Plouharnel (from Caroac),
on the right-hand side is a broad road leading
to Auray, which, if followed for 2 kilometres,
will lead to the hamlet of Runusto (on the left),
where there is a dolmen which has some cup-
markings on it. Continuing on the road for
another kilometre, will be found, on the same side,
three dolmens, named Mane' Korion, which were
opened, in I860, by Dr. Closmadeuc, who found in
them one celt of tremollte, two flint knives, nume-
rous flint chips, eight whorls, two Calais beads, the
fragments of nineteen urns and rases, two human
bones, and a quantity of coarse pottery. Six of the
stones of one of the dolmens hare on them sculp-
tured figures of great variety and of many forms,
which are curious.
On the opposite side of the road, and quite
near, will be seen, on the plain, the dolmen
of Keriaval, which has three sepulchral
chambers; it was opened, in 1886, by Dr. Closma-
deuc, and contained two calais beads, a flint knife,
several flint chips, two whorls, and the fragments
of seven urns and rases, and other pottery.
Between fceriaral and the hamlet of Nauteriau,
another dolmen was found to contain a flint
knife, a sharpening stone, some flint chips, tho
fragments of five urns, and some potsherds.
Following the main road, beyond Man* Kerion
and on the same side, on slightly raised ground
amid the heather, will be found the dolmen of
Klud-er-rler, which has four sepulchral chambers
to it, but all its capstones are missing. It was
opened, in 1866, by the 8ocie*td Polymatbique,
when there were found only a flint knife, a
whorl, several flint chips, and sherds of pottery.
A very pleasant round may be taken with the
aid of a guide, by continuing to the right across
the heather, which will lead to various dolmens,
one cromlech, and two barrows or tumuli,
each being distinguished by a menhir standing
on the top. One of these, Moustoir, was opened
in 1864. It is very similar to Mont S. Michel,
being a galgal (cairn) of stones heaped up; on the
exterior and near the surface were found a large
number of pieces of Roman bricks, frjm which
it is supposed to hive served as a point of
observation to the Roman soldiers. At the further
end a sepulchral chamber was discovered, 12
feet long, by 6 feet broad, and 5 feet high, covered
over by four flat slabs. There was found In the
chamber one celt of agamclite, one perforated
Calais disk, five flint knives, several flint chips, four
urns, soms human bones, and the half of a glass
ring striped with yellow, vertically; all are now
in tho museum at Vannes. There are also two
small cists in this tumulus. The other is named
Crucuni, and is opposite the Chapel of Coet-a-toux ;
it has never been properly opened, although recent
attempts have been made, but abandoned.
120
BSIDSHAW'S BEITTAHT
ha* no hotel, but a fair country
Adberge, where a mea! may be procured. " The
znegatlthfe monuments in this neighbourhood are
numerous. Before entering: the Tillage there are
the ten alignments of menhirs of Kerserho, some-
what similar to those at Carnac, but far more
considerable, extending- in the direction of
Conrcotrao, and having a length of 2,292 yards;
there now remain only 1,047 menhirs, of which
number 910 hare fallen ; great numbers haring
been remored in cultivating the adjacent
fields* those of the largest dimensions will be
found as usual at the extremities of the lines.
To the north-east of these alignments, towards
Erdcvcn, there is & detached spur of colossal men-
hirs; one of the fallen ones has on it three
"basslnf," or cavities, from which primitive
querns have been taken. At about half the length
of these alignments will be seen a hillock
named Mane* Bras, on which there are four
dolmens; the smaller one is in ruins, but the
largest is well preserved, and has two sepulchral
chambers. There are some erratic blocks of
granite here, as also a small stone circle. The
high road to Erdeven has been cut across the
alignments, which have a spur of immense blocks
of granite, running northwards to Erdeven, near
to the road. One of them is a Pierre a bassins.
There are alsotwo dolmens near the village, and three
alignments of menhirs at the Tillage of S. Barbe.
Passing through Erdeven we arrive at the vil-
lage of St. CadO, situated on the banks of the river
Etcl ; it was connected with an island of the same
name by a bridge, 800 feet long, originally Roman.
The parish Church and a Calvary are on the island ;
the former contains four very curious and primitive
paintings which illustrate the life and death of
St. Cado. There is a narrative attached to each
in early French. The Saint is there stated to be
■on of tho Prince of Glamorgan; he crossed over
in tho fifth century, and established himself on
this island, where he built a small chapel for
himself, in which it is said he was murdered by
pirates; his tomb Is shown In the little church.
It is bcllovod to possess miraculous qualities in
curing deafness, the Saint having taken those
afflicted with this malady under his protection.
n» n«.i« t 8 reputed to have, "h force des prieres,"
[Route 13.
banished all snakes and venomous reptiles from th fc
district. There are several megalithic saonnmenta
in the neighbourhood, bat they are all in rains. The
principal one is a tumulus at CrubeU, which was
opened, in 1864, by Dr. Closmadeuc. This tumulus
was 15 feet high ; ita diameter at the base was 100
feet ; it was composed entirely of earth heaped np,
and contained a stone chamber 10 feet long, 5 feet
broad, and 10 feet high; it was without exception
the highest known sepulchral chamber in Brittany
A little below its surface in the vegetable earth
there was found a quantity of Roman bricks and
tiles, also fragments of pottery; and within the
chamber, one celt of diorite, one flint arrow head,
some flint chips, and decayed wood.
Passing over the suspension bridge of Pont
Loroy, and at about four miles beyond it,
is the village of Plouhinec, where there are'eight
alignments of stones, but on a much smaller scale
than those -at Carnac, none being 6 feet high, and
extending not quite 200 yards; they are to be
found near the windmill of Goeidro. There are
also some* at Kere'sine, besides several isolated
menhirs in various directions, but many have
either fallen or are much out of the perpendicular *
In March, 1884, four of the dolmens here were
explored. That of Griguen contained a large
cinerary urn, and a lance-head of bronze; that of
Kerouaren, an urn, a band of gold, and other
ornaments < that of Beg-en-Uavre consisted of
two chambers— -the first of which contained the
remains of a skeleton, tho skull of which had
disappeared, and the second three skulls— and
also furnished several objects of flint; that of
Mane' Bras yielded flint arrow-heads, an urn, and
fragments of ornamented pottery.
LOCOal MendOH maybe reached in a vehicle
in about half-an-hour f rom St. Cado. There are
seven dolmens in ruins scattered- about thier neigh-
bourhood; also close to the 'shore' (by the road
side) is a very remarkable monument on which is
incised the cross of the Knights Templars; which is
believed to have been one of their landmarks.
There is a similarly marked stone on the opposite
boundary of the Commune. They formerly had
a convent here of red monks (Men€h Rhu). It Is
also a memorial of a battle fought in the ninth
Ronte 13.]
VANNK8 TO QUIlimV— LOCO&L 31 BTOON — QUIBERON.
121
ce n t u r y between the Bretons and the Normans,
the former being commanded by a Norman
Princess named Prostlon. On the side of this
stone are incised in ancient characters the words
4 Crux Prostlon,' which, although overgrown with
lichens, are still legible; alongside it is a cross
which has been broken ; the two are within 10
feet of each other.
In returning from this place it will be as well
to .take the road near Pout Loroy, a suspension
bridge* on to Etel, where there is a large sardine
fishery, and where the process of curing this fish
in oil and packing it in tins may be seen. A fair
Inn (Commerce), 5f. a day. Correspondauce to
Plouharmel Station at 7 ajn.; If. 50 cents.
The approach to Qulbtfron is through the village
of v Plbuharnel, and along a narrow strip, or
isthmus of sand, 5 miles long, and which
generally is not more than 200 feet broad. Some
few yean since the Princess Bacchiochi had this
isthmus planted with the "Pin us Maritima " at a
very considerable expense, but unfortunately the
plan did not succeed; a great part of the
trees, which were planted by thousands, died; the
ridges whieh were formed to plant them in now
only remaining. Fort Penthievre, which defends
the place, is built on a rock at the extremity of
the peninsula; it has recently been re-armed,
though as a military port it is but of little value.
The peninsula of Quiberon is exactly 10 miles
long ; its eastern side affords capital shelter for
shipping daring westerly gales, but its western
side is rooky and very dangerous. Proceeding
along the main road, visitors will arrive at the
village of 8. Pierre^ which is frequented by the
French for sea bathing in summer.. Formerly,
a great number of dolmens and megalithic
monuments were strewed about Qniberon, but
they have all disappeared excepting one dolmen
at Kerindervelen, two at Port Blanc, one at
Becker Noz (all ruinod), and a considerable one
in the village of Roc-en-Aud, near S. Pierre
Station, some stone cists at Bec-er-Vil, and
one cromlech, and four alignments of menhirs,
near the windmill beyond the village of
S. Pierre. These alignments run right down to
the sea; the menhir at the extremity next to the
windmill has been named " Le Moine qni preche," "
and when viewed from the proper position, it has
all the appearance of a robed figure with a. hood
on, and its right arm partly raised. The ruined
dolmen (Mane-Mew) is about 800 yards, beyond
the alignments, about half way between them and
Quiberon, on the right-hand side of the road, and
in the village. There is a very fine menhir to the
south west. There were found near here a series
of stone cists of various sizes; the dimensions are
such that it is clear the bodies must have been
laid on their side, with their knees bent up to
their head. They are visible in a gentleman's
garden.
Qniberon Stat. (Quin-Beron, the projecting spit
of land) lies far out upon the sandy peninsula, well
known to our sailors as " Kihberoon," in the
last century. Inns.: De France t Penthievre; du
Commerce. The village of Quiberon itself pre-
sents nothing worthy of notice. It has a church
and a calvary, and several Megalithic monuments.
At the extreme point of Be*conquel there existed
formerly a priory of Templars; There is a good
menhir towards the Point. There' is a harbour
for fishing vessels at Port Hallinguen, from which
a small steamer sails daily at 8 a.m. and noon
(one hour's passage) for Belle-Isle. The- sardine
fishery is carried on here, and there are establish-
ments for curing this fish, as also for preserving
it In oil for exportation.
The main interest of the place, however,, is con-
nected with the ilMated expedition which set sail
from England in 1795, for the purpose of landing
the imigrit who had taken refuge in. England,
in order to reinstate them in their possessions in
Brittany. They were sent over- by the British
Government in fifteen vessels, fully equipped and
armed, and were commanded by D'Hervilly and
Sombreuil. They landed on the beach at Quiberon
and the division under Puissaye was disembarked
at Carnac, on June 27th, and was joined by a
large body of Chouans, or armed peasantry. High
Mass was celebrated by the Bishop of Dol in the
open air at Legenese, near the beach; a table
which was used for the purpose is now in one of
the cottages of the village. They took Auray,
and entrenched themselves in Fort Pe^
^122
BBADSHAW'S BBITTANT.
[Route 13.
which standi on the narrow Isthmus, and
commands the peninsula of Quiberon. The "Bleu*"
however, attacked them in force at Auray, and
gradually drore them back upon the peninsula
behind Fort Penthievre. The fort was taken by
the "Bleus" during a stormy night, and the Emi-
gre's and Choucuu found themselres completely
hemmed in. All who remained alive, were taken
prisoners by General Humbert, on the under-
standing that their lives should be spared; but
the other generals, Hoche and Tallian, would
not ratify the capitulation till they knew the
pleasure of the convention in Paris. The govern-
ment sent down a commission to try the prisoners,
and the consequence was, that numbers of
them were shot, or otherwise executed, at Auray,
Vannes, and Quiberon. The majority were led out
to execution, as we have described (see page 108),
in the u Champ dee Martyr*" Great blame attached
to the English government for the miscarriage of
the expedition. The bishop and the clergy of
the diocese of Dol were also executed at Vannes.
From the Point of Be Conquel at Quiberon there
extends a reef of rocks and islands, the principal
of which, Houat and Hoedic, are inhabited by
fishermen; at each there is a boat harbour and a
small fort. There are four menhirs on Houat;
one is of quarts, and is named "Men Guen" or
White Stone; it was to this island that General
l'ulssaye and some of the Royalist troops escaped
when the Republicans entered Quiberon in 1796,
and from it they were rescued by the English
squadron under Sir John Warren. Hoedic has a
lighthouse, a telegraph station, and a tumulus at
Beg Lagad, a menhir near the ruins of the old
Lighthouse which is called "Le menhir de la
Vierge" and four dolmens; numerous stone im-
plements and coins of Vespasian and Csssar hare
been found on these islands.
Excursion by road or rail to Band. *1. By
road through Pluvigner, and the forest of Camors;
very pretty scenery. Baud is a small unpretend-
ing Tillage, with a nice church, and a tolerable
Inn — Chapeau Rouge. About a mile to the west,
following the River Evel, is a farm occupying the
place of the Chateau of Qulnlpily where stands
the famous statue of the Venus of Qtttftipifp
(wide illustration), which has so mnch puzzled
the antiquarians. It is at present placed on
an elevated pediment on arches, in a very
picturesque situation,, in the grounds of the cha-
teau. At the base is a large granite cistern cut
out of a single block. The statue is that -of a
nearly nude female figure. The hands are crossed
over the breast, and down the middle hangs a kind
of stola, said to be carved by modern hands. A
band or fillet passes across the forehead, and con-
fines the hair. The expression is mild, and much
resembling that of Egyptian figures. Some have
maintained that the statue was an Egyptian Isis,
set up by the Roman garrison at Castanet; others
consider it to be a Celtic deity. There is not much
of the Venus about it. Tradition says that it stood
in the Roman guard-house, and was called
Hroec'h-ar-Gouard, the Old Woman (or, Witch)
of the Guard-house.
This statue was originally placed on the
hill of Castanec, where there was a Roman
post, the site of which is now occupied by a farm,
bearing the name of Couardeor "Quarde." It was
regarded with superstitious veneration, and wor-
shipped with indecent rites. This statue has been
twice thrown into the Blavet ; first, about the
middle of the sixteenth century, at the instigation
of the Bishop of Vannes, who induced the Connt de
Lannion to consent to it. This was followed by
great floods, which inundated the land ; and the
inhabitants, attributing the misfortune to the sacri-
lege of the Count, fished up the statue from the river,
replaced it on its former site, and re-commenced
their idolatrous rites. The Bishop, with a view
of putting an end to these scandalous practices,
pressed the Count de Lannion to break the statue
up in pieces, which he accordingly directed to be
done ; but the workmen, fearing the opposition of
the country people, contented themselves by
knocking off one of the breasts and an arm, after
which it was again tumbled into the river.
Shortly after this the Count de Lannion fell from
his horse, and was killed, which was looked upon
as a judgment from heaven for his having con-
sented to destroy the Idol. In 1696, his son, Pierre
de Lannion, recovered the statue, had it repaired,
removing from it all that was objectionable, and
TANK ESS TO QUIMPKR— QUIBBKOX — HEHHKBOXT.
123
Route 13.]
set it in its present place, to the great Joy of the
peasantry. The inscription on the pedestal calls it
the " Venus Armoricorum oraeulum;" and further
states that, after the subjugation of Oanl by the
Romans, it was dedicated to Venus Victrix. There
is nothing immodest in the statue as it stands at
present, whatever may have been its original form.
The letters I.I.T., engraved on the fillet, which passes
over the forehead of the figure, are as yet unex-
plained. It is, however, not improbable that some
young Roman officer amused himself by earring
his initials on the forehead of the "Hroec'h-ar-
Uouard." There are other curiosities in the neigh-
hourhood of Baud, and two menhirs, near Kernars.
North of Baud, distant 7 miles, it the Tillage of
flumitiau, where, in a pretty valley, is situated
the Chapel of St. Nlcodeine, another name for S.
Compile ; in fact, the two are identical. On the
first Saturday of the month of August a pardon
is held here. simiHr in every respect to that
detailed under the head of Carnac. North-west of
Baud, SJ miles, is the Chapel of Saint Adriem, built
by the Knight Templnrs in the fifteenth century,
in the choir of which is a coarse carving, in
relief, of the Saviour and the Twelve Apostles,
but dressed either as Templars, or as Knights of
s. John, of Jerusalem; six having red cloaks
and six having white ones. Each figure is about
3 feet high, and has an aureole round the head,
on which is cut out the name of the Apostle.
There are two springs, or fountains, in this chapel;
one in the choir, the other in the south transept ;
there is a third one in the churchyard, having a
Calvaire over it. The chapel lias evidently been
built over springs which were worshipped by the
Druids. Staurotidet, or '* Pierres de la Croix,"
axe found between Baud and Locmine*.
Locmine, an hour's drive from Baud is a small
and ill-paved town, but contains a fine church,
dedicated to S. Colomban, whose relics are de-
posited here. This is one of the miracle-working
Murines, and the altars are covered with waxen
ears, legs, and arms, and other tx-xoto offerings.
S. Colomban is, however, specially the patron of
u «nMri/e»." His Litany contains these words: —
" Saint Colomban, la resource da imbecile*, priet I signs whatever of incineration ; the chamber had
pour nous ; Quand nous sonants insensis ctjbus, priet
pour nous!" There are two vaults in this chapel
where the idiots of different sexes were chained
whilst undergoing a cure; but, in consequence of
Indecent irregularities, it became requisite to
abandon this system of curing idiocy. There
is a church near Carnac, dedicated to the same
S. Colomban, with a large stone slab, on which
idiots are placed to be healed. Correspondanoe to
Valines twice dally, 50c Hotel du Cheval Blanc.
The women's costume about Baud is very pretty
and becoming. The cap has white lace lappets;
and the body of the dress is cut square across the
bosom, and laced like the Swiss bodice over a
muslin kerchief.
Three miles from Locmine', on the road to S. Jean
de Brevelay. is situated the village of Bignian.
About a mile before arriving at the latter,
on the south side of the road, distant about 400
yards, and on a hill named Lann*er-bon, there was
opened in 1840 the tumulus of Kergonfals. Its
form is spherical, its height 11 feet, and the
diameter at the base 40 feet ; it was constructed
on the side of the hill instead of following the
usual system of being placed on the summit.
Another peculiarity is that not only is its allee
curved, but that instead of being Joined to the
chamber at a right angle it is joined at an angle of
45 degrees, the entrance following the usual system
of facing to the south east. This galgal (cairn) is
built up of rough stone, over which has been laid
a coating of clay nearly 2 feet in thickness, above
which is the vegetable earth on which corn has
been frequently grown. There had been built up
two dry stone walls in the allee about 4 feet apart;
between them was found a large earthenware
(hand made) bowl which had been placed to stand
on its side; there was also some charcoal. The
chamber was closed by a large stone which had
been placed across its entrance; the dimensions
of the chamber are 8 feet long, 8 feet 6 inches
broad, and 5 feet high. Its stone floor was covered
by a fine unctuous dust, in which were lying three
celts of quartzite coarsely fashioned, two flint
knives, and a number of human bones, apparently
those of a man of great stature. There were no
bradshaVs brittxnt.-
[Route 13.
been dag down. to the rpck, and the alleehad been
sloped down-wards to meetit; there wereno traces of
sculptures, but there were fonndin the alleeseveral
flat stones having deep oval cup-markings on them.
At a short distance south of this tumulus there is
an " alkfe couverte " inj-uins.
Ha&neboni (Stet.)— -JGfofoJ; De France. A
very- picturesque, old town, on the Blavet,'
may be. reached by - road from Band, or
by rail from Auray. The River Blavet runs
close under the walls of the town, and is
crossed by an arched bridge of granite, replacing
a former suspension bridge; there is also a hand-
some viaduct across the valley.
It is one of tho prettiest and most interesting
towns in Brittany. The population is 6,072. Froii-
sart calls it "one of the best fortified castles and,
the strongest town in all Brittany," and we can
readily imagine, front the remains of the fortifica-
tions, what it was in olden times. The river used
to run. round the town in -deep moats; and the
town is built ttpon rocky terraces, which were
scarped and walled up to a great heigfet. There
are few remains of the castle, with the exception
of the grand old battered ivygrown gateways, in
one of the walls of which a cannon ball is still
embedded.
Hennebont is chiefly interesting from the heroic
defence made by the wife of De Montfort, when
her husband was taken prisoner. We can fancy
"the Glorinda of the middle ages*' rallying her
dispirited troops, and with her maidens around
her, mounting the ramparts, and setting them an ,
example of courage and energy ; or riding out of
the gates under the old portcullis, and over the
lowered drawbridge, helmet on head and sword in
hand, and sitting her horse like a heroine (or
rather like a hero) ; and later in the siege, when
hope of succour was almost gone, she sits at one of
the castle windows, patiently watching, ever
gazing out towards the sea ; till just as the time
allowed for capitulation is expiring, the fleet of Sir
Walter Manny is seen coming in full sail up the
Blavet; and all thoughts of surrender are dis-
missed, and the Countess salutes her deliverers,
who immediately put lance in rest, and ride down
' ^appointed besiegers. The extraordinary I
courage which she displayed, even to setting fire
to the enemy's camp, earned for her the name of
"Jeanne la Flamme;" her exploits are heroically
described in ViUemarquft Barzas Breiz, page 190.
Another English army landed near here,- under
Robert of Artois; but a few yeara after when
Duguesclin and Cllsson united their forces, Hen-
nebont was vigorously assaulted, and the brave
English defenders slain, and the fortifications
destroyed.
The church, dedicated to Notre Dame du Paradis,
is very elegant, but appears to have fallen short of
the original design; it ha* never been finished.
Architecture of the sixteenth century ; it has been
recently restored*.
A diligence to Lorient every 2 hours, 50 cents.
There is good fishing at Hennebont, in the Blavet,
for salmon, and in the neighbouring rivers for
trout; fair shooting may also be had. Pont-scorff,
however, is a better station for sport. The Scorff '
should be fished up to Arsanno (where there is a
fine calvary), and indeed up to Quemene, for trout.
There are also some fine lakes near Pont-scorff.
Lorle&t (Stat.) may be reached by rail or
omnibus. Hotels: Hotel de France is a large
pretentious place, but the military element pre-
dominates, and the smart waitresses, with their
gold laced bodices, have little sympathy for
the wants of civilians. Du Cygne (good);
de Bretagne; de l'Europe. Buffet at the
station. It is one of the principal dockyards
and arsenals of France, but inferior in extent to
Brest, Cherbourg, or Toulon. It is a large place,
with 42,116 inhabitants, and quite a modern French
town, though in Brittany. Though often written
& Orient, the Bretons insist that its name is a cor-
ruption of the Breton words Loc-Roch-yan, pro-
nounced Zo-ro-yaw, the estuary of the white rock.
It is not unlikely, however, that the name is a cor-
ruption of AvreHana, like Mcmgoer Lortan, from
Magno AureHano. The ancient Roman city of
Blabia is said to have been situated near the
mouth of the Blavet.
The town was founded 1666, in Louis XIV.'s
reign, by the French East India Company, which,
under the auspices of Law, had a large establish-
Route 13.]
TANNES TO QUIMPBB— LOEIBHT — POBT LOUIS.
12fi
meat here till dissolved in 1770. The Company's
buildings are now converted into arsenals and
store-houses, and give employment to a vast
number of hands. Law's House is now the Pre-
fecture. The Dockyards are worth a viait, but
permission is rarely granted, and only on the in-
tervention of the British Vice-Consul.
There is a granite colamn on the ** Place " sur-
mounted by a bronze statue of Bisson in the act
of blowing up his brfg when boarded by Greek
pirates in 1327.
The visitor will see an immense amount of French
official etiquette here. The military bands give a
lively character to the place. The best feature ot
the dockyard is the " Salle d Armes," a long room,
fitted up as at Cherbourg, with some 100,000 stand
of arms, arranged in various designs, and military
and naval trophies of French victories. Some of
the victories placarded on the walls are perhaps
scared y reconcilable with preconceived notions of
h istory ; u mais i que voulez'-WHU t ' '
The Gothic Church of Ke'rantrech, outside the
ramparts, is very pretty. There is also a' very high
"phare" or look-out tower, about 200 feet, which
tourists fond of "getting up stairs" should ascend,
to enjoy the splendid panorama around.
A steamboat leaves Lorient daily at 6-30 a.m. ;
it returns from Groix the following morning at
9 a.m. Fare, 2fr. ; 2$ hours transit.
Steamers run from Lorient to Nantes, touching
at Belle- Isle.
Port L0Ul8 (so named after Louis XIV.), at
the entrance of the harbour, is a strong fort,
which was the prison of the late Emperor of
the French, after his unsuccessful coup at Stras-
bourg. In 1858 he paid it a visit with the
Empress. It was formerly called Loc-Peran. The
Spanish fleet, which came to assist the Duke de
Mercosur, disembarked the forces here in 1539,
after desperate fighting.
To the South of Port Louis is the Isthmus of
Gavre, where the French artillery carry out their
experiments against iron and steel plates; there
are various batteries, and a raugc of more than
12,000 yards.
■ A second class Inn (Grand Hotel), Mr. a day.
A •mall steamer to Lorient, 80 c. The mega-
lithlaaltgiwments of PloabiMoaan-becoBTMilently
visited from Port Louis.
Tie de GrOiX (Enes-er-Hroec*h), OTthtfWltclics'
Island, which name has led to the belief that it
was formerly inhabited by a college of DruldcMcs,
-similar to that on the island of Sein. This sup] o-
sition is strongly supported by the fact that tho
surface of the island was formerly almost covered
with innumerable Megalithlc monuments; and
although a large number of these have been broken
up and converted into building materials, still tho
dolmens and menhirs which remain are numerous,
though mostly in ruins.
This island is separated from the main by a
channel called "Courreau de Groix," 9 miles
broad, the great fishing ground for the sardine,
where may be seen daily during the season several
hundreds of boats thus occupied. Population,
4,000, most of whom are fishermen. The island is
schistose, and the cliffs are very abrupt and steep ;
they are perfectly honeycombed by caves in every
direction ; most of them can only be entered at low
water; the principal ones are "Trou dei'Enfer,"
the "Tnra du Tonnerre," and the "Grotte aux
Moutons." The "Trou de l'Enfer" is on the south
side of the island ; the cliffs are here very steep
and the descent is almost perilous; this cavern
penetrates into the land 200 yards. The "Trou
da Tonnerre" is not less -curious; when it blows
hard the waves rush into it with great violence,
and produce a very loud rumbling noise like
thunder, from which it takes its name.
Inn : Hotel de la Marine.
The village Church is dedicated to S. Tudy,
the tradition relative to which saint is curious ; it
is said that he came from England in the sixth
century to escape from the persecution of the Pic ts
and Scots, aud that he established himself on this
island, the inhabitants of which he converted to
Christianity.
The Sardine fishery commences here on the 2-lth
of June, on the day previous to which a solemn
religious ceremony takes place, namely, " The
Blessing of the Fishery." The male population of
126
BBADSHAW't BBITTAHY.
[Ronfe 13.
the island embark in their boats, accompanied by
their clergy, with their processional crosses and
banners; they proceed to the middle of the
" Courroau/' where they are met by the boats
from the main land and belonging to the parishes
of Plogmeur, Riantec, Fort Louis, and others, who
are also accompanied by their clergy and in the
same manner ; when they meet, all the clergy
pass orer into one boat, where an altar is put np
on the thwarts. The signal for the commence-
ment of the service is given by crossing the
processional crosses and banners, the rector of
Ploemeur standing up so as to be seen by all
assembled; the fishermen commence by singing
a hymn in unison, which ceases as soon as the
rector holds np bis right arm; prayers and in-
tercessions are then made by the clergy, the
deepest silence being observed. They next
sprinkle the sea with holy water on the four
cardinal points; whilst this is being done the
fishermen pray devoutly to the Almighty to bless
them with an abundant fishery, so that they may
be enabled to support their families. As soon as
the clergy have finished, the banners are recrossed
as at the beginning of the service, to indicate the
blessing with which the service concludes, aftet
which the boats separate, the men singing hymns.
Each returns to his own port to prepare the nets
-and boats for the fishery on the following day.
At Pont-scorff the department of Finlstere is
entered. The country around is very pretty in
summer, from the abundance of wood and water.
Qulmperl* (Stat) lies 12 miles west from
Lorient. Population, 8,049. Hotel*: DesVoyageurs
(comfortable); du Lion d'Or; de France et de
TAngleterre. It is a very pretty little town
situated at the confluence of two bright
looking rivers, the Rllc*e and Isole*. From its posi-
tion, and being so well wooded, it has been named
"l'Arcadie de la Basse Bretagne."
Part of the town lies high up, on a hill, round
the Church and Convent of S. Michel. The nave and
aisles of this church are of the fourteenth century;
the choir is flamboyant, of the fifteenth century.
t* v-a a gpj,^ covered with lead, which was
vn into bullets during the Revolution.
The south porch, notwithstanding the mutilations
which it has undergone, is still worthy of admira-
tion; the shaft between the two bays descends
Into the be*nitier, and is afterwards continued to
the ground; nearly opposite this porch there is a
curious old house of the fifteenth century. The
Church of S. Cross, in the lower town, is a very
curious old building, one of the oldest churches in
Brittany. The east end is circular, and built round
with side chapels. Under the choir and high altar is
a fine crypt, or chapel of the patron Saint Gurlogs.
The visitor is shown some iron cramps upon one
of the round pillars of the aisle, on which it was
said that 8. Gurloe's was suspended and martyred.
Near the place of his martyrdom is his tomb,
which it is believed has miraculous virtues; It has
a hole into which on certain fdte days, people
thrust their arms, believing that they will thereby
be cured from disease. There are many fine
carvings and frescoes in the church, and the
cloisters are very old and curious. The basilica was
rebuilt on the old lines in 1867, in consequence of Hs
central tower having fallen on the bui'ding and
seriously damaged it, some parts of the old walls
being Included in the new building. 8. Gurloes
is said to have been a Welsh prince who crossed
over in the sixth century, and erected a hermitage
for himself on the spot where 8. Cross has been
built. Quimperle* is a very pretty town from the
admixture of foliage and ecclesiastical buildings,
but it is very primitive.
The Pardon des Oiseaux is held annually on
Whit Monday, in the Forest of Camott, in which is
situated the Church of Lothea (built by the Tem-
plars), to which endless pilgrims flock on that
day; it is also called the " Pardon de ToulfoBn."
The peculiar element of this gathering is, that
great quantities of young birds are brought for
sale in wicker cages, and eagerly bought by the
young Bretons for their wives and sweethearts.
Some of the rarer summer visitants — the oriole,
hoopoe, woodpecker, Ac., may be picked up here.
The day concludes with a general dance to the
music of the biniou and bombard^ and other native
music. The costumes seen on these occasions are
of the most bizarre description. The dancing is
under strict surveillance, and its somewhat solemn
character is said to show its Druidkal origin.
Ronta 14.J
QYIMFBB TO BBXXBS, BT PONTITT.
127
A tumulus was opened In 1848, in the northern
part of the Forest of CarnoSt, near the village of
Lothea; its height was 15 feet, and its diameter
at the base 65 feet. It contained a chamber 7 feet
long and 8 feet 6 inches broad, in which was found
a gold chain, as also one of silver, the latter being
much oxydised ; three sword blades, a dagger and
spear head, all of bronze; a stone hammer; a
rectangular flat stone, having each of its angles
pierced ; several flint arrow heads, and a perforated
amulet. This collection is now in the Muse*ede
Cluny at Paris.
Quimperle* played its part in the great religious
and political struggles of Brittany. Oliver Clisson
took it by assault in 1378, and during the War of
the League it was taken and pillaged by the troops
of Henry IV. The Spanish Allies of De Blois were
severely beaten here by Sir Walter Manny.
Diligence from Quimperle" to Pont Aven and
Concarneau at 1 p.m. Correspondance daily to Le
Faoue*t, Gourin, and Carhaix at noon; 7fr. 30c
At Gourin it is met by another for Rostreneo.
Tourists can therefore go on to Guingamp either
through Callac, or by way of Rostrenen, passing
through S. Nicholas du Pelem and Bourbriac.
Carriages for Le FaouSt, S. Fiacre, and S. Barbe
may be hired at Quimperle" for 10 francs.
From Quimperle' the railway runs to Qulmper
(Stat.) — in Route X.— through the villages of
Bannalec and Rosporden, where there is a large
lake and good fishing. Hotel at Rosporden,
"Grande Malson.** There is a short line from
Rosporden to Concarneau.
If time will permit, the tourist should take the
coast road from Quimperle" to Quimper, through
Pont-wten.
ConCAme*U (Stat.) J5ro<c/*' Grand Hotel; des
Voyageurs. Pop., 5,911. This was anciently a strong
fortified town, and was one of the places taken and
held by the French, as a material guarantee during
the minority of Anneof Brittany. JohndeMontfort
sailed from here for England in 1373. It is now a
fortress of the third-class, built on an island con-
nected with the main land by abridge, which also
unites it to the town and port. There is a good
harbour here and shelter for vessels. It is the
head-quarters of the tardine JUhtry, and there are
few more picturesque sights than the sardine
fleet (about 400 altogether), setting out every
morning to the fishing grounds. When the
shoal is discovered, nets are plaeed in long
rows and squares, and the fish are gradually
enticed into them, by dropping overboard, from a
small boat, pellets of roe or stockfish. The curing
of the sardines gives rather "an ancient and fish-
like smell " to the place. The fishing begins in
June and employs many thousand persons.
There is an Aquarium here on the sea shore ; it
has been almost literally hollowed out of the roeks
by blasting, and consists of eight basins, four
for fish, and four for Crustacea; which, as they are
caught, are brought and deposited here. The
basins communicate with the sea, and the water
is changed each tide by a simple arrangement.
Large quantities of lobsters, fish, and oysters are
daily sent by rail to the markets. There
is also here a piscicultural establishment; the
oyster "pares" are in the Bale de la Fdret* to
the eastward of the port of Concarneau.
Near the village of Kerouet, on a vast heath, will
be found the rocking stone, called Men-dogmn t
(des maris trompe*s); it is well balanced, and
is easily set in motion by a woman (it is said) if
she has been true and faithful.
In the environs of the village of Trtgtnu, near
Concarneau, are numerous blocks of granite dis-
persed about, without any order, over a Carneillou
or Celtic cemetery. Tre"gunc signifies "the valley
of sighs or sorrows."
Font Aven. A picturesque village, situated
on the banks of a river of the same name, which
flows between two wooded hills. Large rounded
boulders of granite are strewed about, many in
the river, dividing it into several small streams;
the inhabitants use these to turn their flour mills,
which are so numerous that it is called " La ville
des meuniers." The scenery is pretty ; fishing is
good— trout and salmon. In the sands of the
Aven is found a bivalve of the mussel species,
which often contains pearls, sometimes of the
size of a pea. The Inn (Hotel des Voyageurs)
is good and clean, and has many paintings, pre-
sented by artists who frequent the district.
The Fete of Pont Aven is held on the Mondav
and Tuesday after the 3rd Sunday in r
ROM* 14i]
QUIlttfe* f6 ItlltNEi— PONtlTT.
the chapel of 3. Fiacre, an edifice of the
fifteenth century, Flamboyant architecture of
the best period, the south porch has elegant
niches, which formerly contained linages of the
Twelve Apostles, but these and all other* (ex-
cepting one colossal one of 8. Christophe) were
destroyed, and the pieces scattered about. There
are still eight windows remaining of old painted
glass, but most of them are in a bad state of pre-
servation. The exquisite rood screen, and the
gallery above It, have recently been completely
restored by artists from Paris j but the freshly-
coloured figures are in questionable taste. On
one of the escutcheons of the rood screen is the
following inscription:— "Lan mil IIIIcc IIIIxx
(1440) fust faist cest oeuv e par Le Lougan
ouvrier." S. Fiacre was an Irish missionary,
who crossed over in the sixth century. He is the
patron saint of the French cabmen, and It is from
an hotel, St. Fiacre, near which they were first
stationed, that their vehicles are called " Fiacres."
From Le Faoutft the road should be taken to
Gue'mene' through Keni*S&ed«jft 0>kk WuUra*
tion)— from **•, village; Ntueli, inolosvret Dm,
deer; signifying the riUagoof the deer lnalosure~
o see the beautiful Churchln that secluded village.
The elegance and variety of ornamentation— the
lacework borderlngs— the geometric windows, and
lofty pierced spire, will excite admiration. It is
generallv attributed to English architects, but the
founder was Alain, of Porhogt, one of the Rohan
family, in the fifteenth century. Its retired position
saved it from the Calvinists, but it was un-
fortunately damaged by lightning in 1876, which
struck the bell tower, carrying it through the roof.
It has been restored. Gu&neudisalongstraggling
county town, where the Breton farmers and
peasants will be seen, in full costume, on
market days. The farm-houses on the roadside, in
this part, should be looked into as quaint speci-
mens of Breton country life. Gue'mene' was the
birthplace of Hippolyte Bisson, a famous French
naval hero, to whose honour there is a column.
(See ^orient) Hotel: De la Croix Verte.
(An excursion may be made from here, about
8 miles to the sou*h-ea*t, for the purpose of
inspecting the following;- In the reliquaire of
the churchyard of the' village of Butoy, which is
129 }
at a short distance from the rail to Pontivy, there
is a solid vail of human bones; 91 feet long,
9 feet high, and over 4 feet thick, ft is said to
contain about six thousand skulls and other bones,
laid In regular tiers. They have been there from
time Immemorial. It Is not known from whence
they came, and they are never disturbed. The.
shape of the skull* shows them to be a different
race of men from the present. They are supposed
to be relics of some great battle.}
Three miles north of Bubry is the village of
Melrand. where, at the confluence of the rivers
Sarre and Blavet, there is a grotto in the solid
rock of about 22 feet In depth; it is said to bare
been the hermitage of S. Rivalain, an early
missionary, who arrived in France in the sixth
century. In times of drought the people repair to
this grotto in pilgrimage, in the hopes of obtaining
rain through the intercession of this saint.
The road from Gue'mene' to Pontivy lies through .
an undulating well-wooded country. The entrance
into it, through the village of AtfseV, is very pretty.
The roadside chapel and fountain should be
Tisited.
Pontivy (Stat)— population, 9,196; &#*tt
G reseat (clean and eomfortabts>*»fDrme»ly
2f«poi*k>hrtUt, a curious mixture of the oM
and new styles. The old town lies up under
the rocky elevation on which stood the old
castle, which fell into ruins in the fourteenth'
century. There ie a good specimen of a feudal
castle, but of a later date (148*;, on the site of
It. It was an appanage of the Roluuks, and loll
with their fortunes. The extinguisher roofs and
Crumbling curtain*- walls, gay with flowers* are still
t emarkable. It was, however, later devoted to the
peaceful occupation of a nunnery. The new town,
planned by Napoleon I., and occasionally called
after his name, rejoices in the large open squares
and lofty stone houses which distinguish modern
French towns. Pontivy has a fino old church, of a
somewhat mixed order of architecture. On the
Place d'Armes la a bronse statue of General
Lournel, aide-do-eamp to Napoleon III., who died
from the effects of wounds received at Inkurman j
there is also a marble slab to indicate *
J which he was born. A garrison 1
180
BBA3>8HAW*S BBHZAVT
enlivens the dull old town. CorresiKmdance daily
from Pontivy to Le Faouet,. pacing through
Qn6 W and Kernascleden, 5 francs; alsooneto
Rohan, Josselin, and Ploermel. Bail to St. Brie*.
The BUYet (here canalised)!, a fine «"*>*»*
fair fishing may be obtained in the neighbourhood.
A good ioad lead. past the now objure Tillage of
j^near which is the Trappist Monasters' at
Tymadeuc, BreTian Loude*ac, to
J©Melin(Pop.MDO. Hotels: Grande Maison:
Croix d'Or), another good specimen of an old feudal
town and castle. Few places hare undergone so
many changes and fierce assaults as the Castle of
JoueUn. Standing on an elevated rock above the
River Oust, its situation is admirably adapted for
a stronghold (vide illustration). The first castle
was built in the eleventh century by one of
Conan's sons; but it was taken and retaken in
the quarrels which ensued upon the expulsion
of Eudes, and the intervention of Henry II. of
England.
It was a stronghold of the Rohans during the
Wars of the Succession, and Oliver de Cllsson held
it when. Constable, and strongly fortified it. The
towers over the river are very ancient and im-
posing, as represented in our Illustration ; but the
Inner court is also very handsome, and richly
ornamented, though of later date. The chief tower
was thrown down in 1889, by order of Louis XIII.
During the "centjows" the royalists stripped off
the lead from the roofs to cast bullets. The motto
of the Rohans, "A plus," occurs on the escutcheons.
Another of their mottoes was "Ducjene daigne,
roije nepuU % Rohan je suis."
Tne Prince de Lenon at present resides at the
chateau, which is rich in paintings; it has also a
statue of Henri IV. when a boy. and two hand-
some ancient chimney-pieces.
The Church of Josselin, called Notre Dame des
Ronciew, from an image of the Virgin said to have
been miraculously found in the ronce*, or brambles,
a.d. 808, is a curious old church with a pyramidal
tower, and some fine painted glass. The sepul-
chral chapel of the Clissons contained the tomb
and marble effigies of Oliver Clisson and his wife,
-et de Rohan ; they were destroyed by the
nlsts in 1798, but were restored in 1858. |
[Route 14.
The other Chapel contains grotesque earvings of the
"dance of death." There are many old houses and
relics of the past in Josselin, which well deserve
exploring. There is a correspondence to PloeTmei.
Excursions should be made from JoueUn to the
" Trou Dori " and the M Trou aux Ftee," for pretty
scenery; and to Gn^eim* to visit the finest Calvary
in the Morbihan.
Half-way on the road to PloSrmel will be seen a
grove of firs, among which is a monument set up
by the French Government in 1819, to commemo-
rate the famous "Battle of the Thirties," which
took place here about the year 1860. Much discredit
has been thrown upon the trrrth of this somewhat
romantic affair, especially as the chronicles of
FroUsart were not supposed to allude to it; but
according to Mr. Lo wth, a copy of FroUsart recently
discovered in the library of the Prince de Soubise,
contains a chapter which tells the story almost in
the same words as the Actes de Bretagne, published
by De FrSminville, and the ballad on which reliance
was placed for the particulars of the fight. I n Ville-
marqutfs collection there is a ballad entitled
the "Stourm an Trtgont" (Baraas Breis, p. 196),
which corroborates the accounts of other writers.
The plain history of the affair seems to
be this— During the War of the Succession,
a personal quarrel arose between Robert de Beau-
manoir, who was holding Josselin for De Blois,
and Richard Bemburgh (most probably Pembroke),
who held PloSrmel for De Montfort. The origin
of this quarrel is variously stated to have been
either an accusation of "mauvaise guerre'* made
by Beaumanoir against Bemburgh for oppression
of the peasants who tilled the land, or a tour-
ney "A Toutrance" between these rival leaders.
Daru inclines to the chivalrous idea, and says the
question to be decided was, -qui pent se ranter
a avoir la plus belle amie." That it was a deciding
conflict between the two parties, Breton and Eng-
lish, to be fought out by thirty champions on each
side, cannot be admitted ; as in all the accounts the
leaders express a fear that the combat is illegal,
and that they would incur the anger of their re-
spective chiefs. At any rate the combat was
agreed upon, and the place of meeting appointed j
half way between Josselin and PloSrmel. The
Boute 14.]
QTJIMPER TO RBNNE8— JOSSELIN — PLOEKMBL.
131
terms of the combat seem to have been that it
should be fought on foot, and accordingly we find
that each party dismounted, and a few of each side
were left to guard the horses.
The names of the whole of the combatants are
given, from which it appears that there were, on
the side of Beaunianoir, himself and nine other
chevaliers and twenty-one squires ; and on the side
of Bemburgh. himself and six other chevaliers and
twenty-four squires : of the English side, twenty
only were English, four Brabancons, and six Flem-
ish. Some of the names given are evidently Eng-
lish, as Knollys, Billyfort, Walton, Hugh Calverley,
and Robin Adey; while others, as Plesanton,
Hutcheton, Jannequin, Hereward, Ac, are tra-
vesties of English names. They were variously
armed with battleaxes, maces, bills, <fec.
The combat was at first much in favour of the
English. At the first onset five Bretons fell, and
Yves Gharruel, their best fighter, was taken prisoner.
After partaking of refreshments they again rushed
on each other; but, while Beaumanoir and Bem-
burgh were engaged hand to hand, two other Breton
knights attacked Bemburgh ; Kerenrais struck him
in the face with his pike, and overthrew him, and
Geoffrey du Bois chopped off his head. The Eng-
lish thus lost their leader, but they still maintained
the combat with advantage. Beaumanoir cried out
for something to assuage his thirst, but Croquart
exclaimed, "Beaumanoir bois ton sang" and Beau-
manoir renewed the fight with savage energy. At
this period of the combat the Bretons were getting
the worst of it, when one of them, slipping out of
the melee, ran to where the horses were left,
mounted one of them, and, returning, rode down
upon the English knights, upsetting one after
another, trampling them under his horse's feet, and
spearing them with his lance. The English knights
were discomfited by this attack and the Bretons
gained the victory. Eight of the English were
killed, and the remainder taken to the Castle of
Josselin, and detained as prisoners till ransomed.
There was, therefore, little credit attached to this
victory of the Breton party, and still less reason
why the French should set up a monument to com-
memorate it in 1819, bearing the inscription, " Vive
le Roi long temps, le* Bourbon* toujour* I!"
There was, doubtless, much bad blood between
the Bretons and English in those days, as Shake-
spear expresses the prevailing sentiment of the
English :—
" A tort of vagabond rascals and runaways,
A scum of Bretagnes and base lackey peasants ;
* * * * whom our fathers
Have for their own laud, beaten, bobbed, and thumped."
Floermel (Stat.), or Plou Armel, the parish of
S. Armel, the Breton St. George, is a town of 5,913
inhabitants. Motels: Lion d'Or; da Commerce;
de France; none of which are first-rate; the
"Messagerie" is alongside the Lion d'Or. It was
in olden times a strongly fortified place, but it
has now nothing remarkable except the church,
in which are monuments 6f two of the Dukes
of Brittany — John II. and III. Their figures
lie upon the same mausoleum. These figures
came from a Carmelite convent close by, which
was burnt in the Wars of the League. There
are also some fine figures' in Kersanton ' stone.
The church dates from the twelfth century, but
it was reconstructed in the sixteenth ; the archi-
tecture is Flamboyant and Tudor. The sculptures
of the north porch merit attention ; many of the
subjects are from the New Testament, but there
are also others which are very grotesque; such as
a sow playing on the bagpipes, a cobbler sewing
up his wife's mouth, and a woman throwing her
hat at her husband. The painted windows, which
date from 1533 to 160?, have recently been repaired
and well cleaned; they represent the history of
S. Armel, an English missionary, who came to
Brittany in the sixth century; the Tree of Jesse;
the Passion of Our Saviour; the Death of the
Virgin : the Assumption ; and the Lord's Supper.
To the north of Ploermel is the lake called
" L'Etang au Due;" the river Doift flows through
it; its waters are very clear, and there are plenty
of trout in it ; near the windmills is a waterfall
about 24 feet high, and some pretty scenery in the
environs. This lake is preserved, but there is
good trout fishing in the river. About three miles
from P]permel is the " Roche aux Fe*es," a dolmen,
which merits a visit. At Malestroit is a ruined
chapel with a beautiful painted window.
There is a diligence daily to Josselin at 2 p.m.,
50 cents; and one to Redon at 10-30 a.m., 4fr. mw».
The railway from here joins the
/^
182
BRABSIiAW'8 WTTAHT.
PbrntoM.
B robin lere near Montauban, from which, to reach
Dman, proceed on to Canines, where there is a
correspondance.
About seven miles north-west of Ploe'rmel Is
Neant, near Tre*horenteuc, on the edge of the
ancient and enchanted forest of Brooellanda, cele -
brated for the feats of King Arthur of the Round
Table. Here also was the enchanted Fountain of
Barenton; what remains of this forest is now
known by the name of Forfit de Palmpont. It Is
*! mile* from Neaut Button. At a short distance
there are four tumuli; one has a small menhir on
it, and la called »* la Butte deeTombee." A great
number of iueg.il It hio stone* nre found lying about
In this district, arranged in patches resembling
large borders, for which reason the plaoe is
called "Le Jardln des Tombee.'*
The next station to Neaut Is Mawon, a pretty
village with a church of the 13th century, which
has a beautiful east window.
Six miles to the north -©art of Pldtanel is the
village of St. Male tk* Trtii Fmtoine*, neax which
la the small and very poor village of Penfra,
where King James II. took ref uga in 1A90. A small
cottage is shown where this unfortunate monarch
took shelter.
On the road to Rennes, about ft miles from
Ploe'rmel, near Campeneac, Is a very fine specimen
of feudal architecture, called the Ch&Uau of Tre-
teuon. It stands surrounded by a broad sheet of
water, and Is In very fine preservation.
In the Church of Beignon y a few miles further,
are some beautiful painted windows, on which are
traced the history of S. Peter and the genealogy of
the patriarchs.
Following the road through PleMan andMontfort-
sur-Meu {Hotel: Du Cheval Blanc), the traveller
will take the rail for Reuneg (see Route L),
having, we trust, performed an agreeable jour-
ney through an inviting eeantry, leaving no object
of Interest un visited.
HEIGHT OF THE GREAT MENHIRS Of BRITTANY.
Locmarlaker.
Total M-40
Metres.
Flessldy, CMes du Nord 1M*
Kerloaz, Plouarael, Flnlstere 10-08
Layout, COtes du Nord 10-30
Ke*rien, C6tes du Nord 9*63
Dol, He et Vlllaine *80
Plouarzel, Flnlstere 8-77
Pe*dernec, COtes du Nord 8*50
TrtJgon, COtes du Nord 8*50
ScaSr, Finisterc 8-38
Pleucadeuc, Morbihan 8*0
Trdjrune, Flnlstere 80
Be*gard, COtea du Nord 7*50
Camtroe, Cotes du Nord .?. 7*30
A vri!e\ Tended 70
Fontains-sur-Maroe 7*0
Kertes. COtes d« Nord 7*0
N.B.— This list Is
Coria© From Mr. Salmon's Works,
Metres.
1st piece ...... 9*40
Metres. 2nd „ 6*0
..'.... 20-40 8rd „ 3-
4th „ 2-90
Metres.
Nlzon, Flnlstfrro 7-0
Pen-march, Finistfcre 7*0
Plouescat, Finlstbre 7 -
Moustolrnc, Morbihan fi-GO
sires.
1-40 "N
>*0 1
1-10 J
►•90 J
La Boulale, Morbihan , 6 - o5
Cuguen, Finlstbre 6'50
St. Guyomard, Morbihan , 6*60
Bourhrlac, COtes du Nord 6*40
Bazougferes, Maycnne , 6*0
Cargat, Lot 60
Grolx, Morbihan 6.0
Meneac, Morbihan 6*0
Penmarch, Flnlstere , 6*0
Plaudren, Morbihan 6*0
Treffitigat, Flnlstere 6*0
not quite complete.
MAT 09 BXU&BirOBft.
1«8^
LIST OP DILIGENCES AND OTHER PUBLIC VEHICLES,
Which run prom the Railway Stations in Brut any ; with
FARES, DISTANCES, AND TIMES OF DEPARTURE.
The Utter (f.J after a name signifies that there is FUking in the neighbourhood.
FARES.
In-
Ban-
Coup*.
ttrlenr
quette.
fr. ct
fr. Ct.
fr. Ct.
• ••
2 00
2 00
• ••
60
50
• ••
60
• ••
• ••
60
50
• ••
60
50
• ••
1 60
1 60
• ••
60
50
• ••
1 76
1 75
• ••
1 26
1 26
• » •
60
50
• ••
60
50
4 00
400
• ••
*••
1 00
1 00
5 00
6 00
• ••
• ••
60
60
• ••
60
■••
• ••
60
56
Day ..
66
• • •
• ••
60
• •
• ••
2 00
• ••
Day...
60
60
4
8 60
3 50
Day...
60
• ••
Dny...
60
50
• ••
2 60
2 50
• ••
*8 00
•••
• ••
60
• ••
• ••
60
• »•
Day...
95
• ••
• •t
2 60
• ••
• • «
2 50
2 50
• ••
2 00
1 50
• ••
1 66
1 60
• •
1 60
• ••
• ••
2 60
• ••
• ••
60
• ••
• ••
75
75
• ••
1 66
1 60
• ••
060
• ••
• ••
2 25
• ••
2 60
2 00
• ••
Places to which
Conveyances run
from the Hallway.
Antrain .,
Auray
Avranches
Bain ,
H
15*
22
Baud (f.) ,
Bazouges - la -
Perouse.
Be*gard
Binie ,
Henrbriao (f.) ,
Brest
Broons,
CallacCfl,
Cancale
Carhai* (/)
Chateaubriant.
••••••••
Chateau flontbiei
Chaleaulin (f.) ....
Cherbourg
Combourg
Corlay
Coutances
Coutances.
C'raon
Dinan ..
Dinan
Dol
••••••••e
•*»
Riven.
Equerdreriile..
Erquy
Etables .„
Evran ,
Goudelin
Gouray
Gue'mene' . sur
Scorff.
Guingamp <£>..
He'd*;...
Henan Bihan
Hennebont (fj ....
Rerbifnae .
lie de Groix
1 J W H I
■• ••••••••• •
2
9
5
II
5
12
12
82
9
82
2
2
2
• ••
• ••
17
• • •
SI
22
6
5
27
25
12
12
IS
21
11
14
• •a
29
24
Railway Stations
to which
Conveyances run
Combourg ....
Auray
Avranches....,
Bain Loheac
Baud ,
Combourg.....
Departure
from
Railway
Station.
Belle-IIe-Be*gard
"J. Brieuc
Guingamp...,
Brest.,,,
Broons
»•«•* »••*••«•
Guingamp ...
(LaGouesnierc)
( Cancale >
Guingamp
Chateaubriand...
{
Chateau Gonthler
Chateaulin
Cherbourg
Combourg .......
Quintin
Coutances
S. Lo ,
Craon
Dinan
Dinard ,
St. Malo ,...
Dol '
Elven
Cherbourg
Lamballe...
Brieuc ..,
Dinan
Guingamp..
Lamballe...
Pontivy ....
Guingamp
Montreutt-sur-IUe
Lamballe
Hennebont
Pont Chateau....
Lorient
a.m.
6 8<
Mee
5 45
• • •
Mee
6 25
9 49
6 42
••♦
Mee
7 25
••f
7 10
8 45
7 10
Mee
Departure
frm Place*
to the
Railwav.
9 10
Mee
6 3Q
Mee
8 16
•••
Mee
7 60
10 5
Mee
7 46
6 i'2
9 30
...
6
Mee
• • *
6 97
Mae
8 •
5 #0
p.m.
1 40
t all
Do.
4 60
6 46
U all
5 5
a 23
2 45
8
ts all
1 37
5 30
5 53
ts'all
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
ts all
12 10
ts al
Do.
3 16
ts all
3 10
7 30
ts all
2 \r>
« t •
•3 30
■
1
tsall
7
...
ts all
a.m. p m
6 3 8.11
Trai
Do
4 30
8 45
1'rai
6 2U
8 50
9 10
5 f>5
Trai
6 15
11 8
4 16
11 50
Trai
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
• ••
Trai
4 do
Trai
Do.
7 46
Trai
6 50
9
Trai
8 45
• • •
9
8
Trai
4 30
•••
Trai
9
Remarks.
us.
fl 25|
ns
4 30
1 35
3 i'i
• •i
ns.
4 3<
■ ■<
1 *5
3 60
»••
us.
At night, 80c.
1 l<
ns
2 301
us.
1 15|
• ••
ns.
2 50
6 20
»h.
2 50
3 6
1 3(
• ••
8 60
ns.
»••
8 4*
ns.
12 151
{
Without 1 uggage
40c.
At night. 70c.
At night, ?5c.
At niuht 60c.
At night, If. 25c :
At night, 70c.
A steambQat.
* This includes eonreyanoe to the Mil, sad steamer fare.
S*
134
BRADIHAw's BBITTAWT — LIST OV DILIGENCES — Continued.
Fares.
In-
Coupe.
terieur
fr. ct.
fr.~~ ct.
• ••
75
• ••
3 35
• ••
2 50
• ■ ■
50
• •a
50
• ••
50
• ■•
2 :5
• ••
50
• ••
1 50
• ••
2 00
• ••
2 25
• ••
2 00
• ••
75
• ••
50
Day...
50
1 75
1 60
«••
2 00
• • •
2 00
• • •
1 15
•••
1 75
• ••
1 25
• ••
50
1 60
1 50
1 75
1 50
• ••
60
• ••
8 50
Day...
50
•••
2 00
• ••
2 60
• ••
2 00
*••
1 25
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
2 00
2 75
(10
26
00
3 00
2 76
50
2 20
1 25
50
3 00
50
50
50
60
50
70
3 00
50
200
Ban-
quette
fr.~ct
2 25
• ■•
•••
•••
• ••
•••
• ••
• ••
1 60
1 50
• ••
•••
1 00
• ••
• ••
• ••
1 00
• •■
• ••
50
3 00
Places to which
Conveyances run
from the Railway
•••••■•
Jugon
Kerfaut...
Kerien (f>,
Lamballc
Landerneau
Landevixinu
Lannebert ..
Lannion (f.)
Lanvollon ...
Lanvollon...
La Roche Bernard
Lesneven
Loheac...
= 2 1 Railway Stations
5 = 1 to which
•■••«•*••■•<
Lorient.
Loude'ac
Marig-ny
Matignon
Mauron
Missilliac
Moncontour
Mont St. Michel..
Morlaix (f.)
Mousteru
Muzillac
Nantes
Paimpol
ji orciuiw** •*••••• ■••••■
Plane-oft ...
PleTie*ueI .
Pleneof
Pleslin
Plcrtuit ...
PloSzal (f.)
Ploudaniel
Ploucr
PlouvenczQuintin
Pommerit Jardy.
Pont Gamp
Pontivy
Pontrieux (f.)
Pordic
Pontorson ...
Portricux ...,
• • ••• ••••••
t ••••••••••>«
Quintin
Quimper .
Quiinperle*
Reeouvrance
Re*don .
Rennes
Roche Derrien....
RocbiorteiioTerrc
3
6
29
24
20
• • •
li
16
22
16
8
18
27
28
8
16
9
• • •
12
18
33
22
1\
17
9
16
23
11
11
82
27
28
• ••
9
8
• • •
18
Conveyances run
Plenee-Jugon....
Guingamp....
Guingamp
Lamballe
Landerneau
Landevislau
Guingamp
Lannion
Chfttclaudren....
Guingamp
Pont Chateau ...
Landerneau
Messac
Lorient
Loude'ac
8. L6
Lamballe
Montauban ....
Pont Chftteau.
Lamballe
Pontorson ....
Morlaix
Guingamp ....
Questcmbert..
Mantes
Guingamp ....
S. Malo
Plenee-Jugon
Guingamp.. ..
Lambelle ,
Diitan ..'
Dinan ,
Guingamp ....
Landerneau .
Dlnan
Quintin
Guingamp
Lamballe
Pontivy
Guingamp ,
S. Brieuc
Pontorson .....
S. Brieuc
Quintin
Quimper ,
Quimpcrle*
Brest
R6don
Rennes
Guingamp
Malansac..
\
80
5
16 | Pontiyy
{
Departure
from
Railway
Station.
a.m. p.m
5 25
3 20
8
Mee ts all
| Do
8 3 30
... | 3 20
Mee ts all
9 3 25
... I 3 'A0
8
9 30
6
8
Mee
6
6 67
6 33
8
7 66
Mee
7 10
10
Mee
7
• ••
6 45
7 45
8 15
8 15
9 30
8 15
9
• ••
6 40
Mee
• ••
G 42
Mee
6 42
9 11
11 12
Mee
9 25
3
5
6 20
ts all
Do.
noon
6 54
ts all
Do.
3 20|
3 "l5
3 15
3 20
2 20
tsall
3 20
2 15
tsall
2 15
3 26
ts all
Do.
Do
Do.
Do.
3 201
3
6
Departure
frm Places
to the
Railway.
a.m
11 30
7 10
4 30
Tral
Do
6 26
8 10
Trai
7 15
8 80
5
6 40
Tral
Do.
6 40
6
Trai
Do.
tsall
3 20
2 20
6 15
6 35 11
Trai
6 55
5
6 16
p.m.
• • •
• • •
•••
as.
2 461
• •
ns.
1 50
1 36
4 5
8 66
6 10
ns.
4 80
2 40
3
2
5 261
us.
3 55
1
ns.
Remarks.
7 45
i
■ ■ ■
9 15!
8 25,
8
12 2U
7 35
3 25
Trai
8 30
9 45
Trai
3 20
8 41
7 40 10 35
Trai
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
7 15
MS ...
5 4017 i
... I 2 i
80
80
12 1(
4 35
8 5<
3 30
• ••
3 6<
2 35
1 55
4 35
3
ns.
3*55
ns.
2 45
2 36
7
118.
2 52
5 41
I «
\
At night, 75c
At night, 76c.
At night. 80c.
At night, 80c.
list of diligences — Continued.
135
Fares.
In-
Coup*. terieur
fr. ct,
)ay.
)ay.
fr. ct.
5 00
4 50
50
1 25
50
50
2 50
1 00
50
50
50
50
3 00
3 50
00
3 00
75
1 25
7 25
50
1 50
60
50
50
60
60
3 00
Ban-
quette.
fr. Ct,
25
3 00
Places to which
Conveyances ruu
from the Railway.
Rostrenen
Rostrenen
Sable'
S. Alban
8. Anne d'Auray.
8. Cast
8. Glen
8. L6....
8. Meen
8. Melior
8. Nicholas du)
Pelera ....
S. Nicholas du)
Pelem ....
8. Pair
8. Quay
8. Serran
Sarzeau .
Sartilly .
S4gr6 ..
Torigny .
Uzel
Valognes
Villedieu
Vire
Yvlas
41
50
10
• • •
• • •
27
14
' 3
25
85
20
24
53
13
26
Railway Stations
to which
Conveyances run
Quintin
Guingamp
Sauld
Lamballe
8. Anne d'Auray .
S. Brieuc
Lamballe
Lambelle
S. L6
S.Malo j
8. Meen .
(LaGouesniere)
( Cancale ...J
Quintin
Guingamp
Granville -J
8 Brieuc
S.Malo i
Vannes
Dol
Se'gre'
8. L6
Uzel -5
Valognes
Vannes
Villedieu
Vire
Guingamp
Departure
from
Railway
Station
a.m.
p.m.
9 10
• ••
• • •
8
Mee
ts all
7 45
• ••
Moe
ts all
.
Do.
6 57
• • •
6
• te
Mee
ts all
7
•2 20
10 10
6 15
• ••
6 35
Mee
ts all
6 45
5 55
9 10
• ••
• ••
8
6 85
4 31
9 43
•••
6 42
2 15
7
2 20
10 10
6 15
•mm
6 85
• ••
4
8
• ••
Mee
ts all
• •«
4 45
9 40
2 32
10 87
4 7
• ••
8 30
Mee
tsall
Do.
Do.
Do.
•»•
8 20
Departure
frm Places
to the
Railway
a.m
10 35
1 30
Trai
Trai
Do
Trai
5 5
6 20
II 15
Trai
5 10
8 15
7 40
9 55
8
5 5
6 20
LI 15
6 40
6 40
Trai
7 30
9 5
10
•••
Trai
Do.
Do.
Do.
7 35
p.m
ns.
4 301
ns.
2 0|
4 40|
ns.
12 15
4 40
8 58
ns.
4 45
12 20
5 35
• ••
2 80
• ••
4 40
8 55
ns.
1 52
3 29
7 45
ns.
Remarks.
I
From the 1st of
June to the 30th
of September.
At night, 75c
I At night, 75c.
(From 15th July
\ to 15th Sept.
) At night, If.
S- Without lug-
) gage, 50c.
f Without
< luggage, 80c.
}
At night, 70c.
At night, 75c.
At night, 75c.
Note. — Baggage, if it exceeds 60lbs., is usually charged for. To convert kilometres into English
eagues, divide by 5, which gives a good approximation; but, to be quite accurate, multiply the kilometres
y 5, and divide the result by 8 — the answer will be English miles. In hiring carriages, the usual fares
ro — "the course" (day of 8 hours), 10 fr.; the "demio course" (half a day of 4 hours), 6 fr. In sum-
ler, they will endeavour to get much higher prices. A "pourbolre" of about If. is usual, provided that
he driver be civil and diligent.
For the special benefit of Travellers, this list of " Correspondances,'" or means of inland commu-
icatiou between place and place, has been revised and corrected with much trouble, and only after
oing over the whole ground. As a rule, certain interested parties endeavour to withhold this
i formation as much a* they can, in order to procure the letting of their own carriages and horses to the
'raveller. He should remember that many of the "Correspondances" are postal carriages, which are
(lowed to carry a few passengers. Sometimes, if he asks about a " Correspondance," he may be told
liere is none; and if ho replies, " Hyw, then, are letters earned?" he is answered, "Yes; there
» a postal carriage, if you call that a Correspondance; but we do not call it one." It must be
.nderstood, however, that the times, etc., here given, are subject to changes.
r
"1
^
r
^
132
nm^Dajuw'a hwttaht.
Brohinierenear Montauban, from which, to reach
Dman, proceed on to Caulnes, where there is a
correspondance.
About seven miles north-west of Ploermel is
Nfianti near Tre'horenteuc, on the edge of the
ancient and enchanted forest of Rrooeliandft, cele-
brated for the feats of King Arthur of the Round
Table. Here also was the enchanted Fountain of
Barenton; what remains of this forest is now
known by the name of Foret de Painipont. It is
$i miles from Neant Station. At a short distance
there are four tumuli; one has a small menhir on
it, and ia called ♦* la Butte do* Tombes." A great
number of raegaltt hie stones «re found lying about
in thl* district, arranged in patches resembling
large borders, for which reason the plaoe is
called "Le jardln det Tombes."
The next station to Neant Is Mauron, a pretty
village with a church of the 13th century, which
has a beautiful east window.
Six miles to the norta-east of Ploo'rme) is the
[Route 14.
villnge of St. Male dp Tr*i$ Fmtoine*, near which
is the small and very poor village of Penfra,
where King James JI. took ref ugq in l«90. A small
cottage is shown where this unfortunate monarch
took shelter.
On the road to Rennes, about 6 miles from
PIoBrmel, near Campeneac, is a very fine specimen
of feudal architecture, called the Ch&teau of Tri-
eeuon. It stands surrounded by a broad sheet of
water, and is in very fine preservation.
In the Church of Beiynon, a few miles further,
are some beautiful painted windows, on which are
traced the history of S. Peter and the genealogy of
the patriarchs.
Following the road through Ple*lan andMontfort-
sur-Meu(J7ofe7: Du Cheval Blanc), the traveller
will take the rail for Rennes (see Route L),
having, we trust, performed an agreeable jour-
ney through an inviting eesntry, leaving no object
of interest unvfsited.
HEIGHT OF THE GREAT MENHIRS IN BRITTANY,
Copied From Mr.
Locmariaker.
Metres.
20-40
etres.
>40 *\
>«0 \
1-10 |
►•90 J
Metres.
Total 2040
Metres.
Plessldy, COtes du Nord ; 1112
Kerloaz, Plouarzel, Finistere 1005
Largo8t, Cotes du Nord 10*30
Ke*rien, Cotes du Nord 9-63
Dol, He et Villaine 930
Plouarzel, Finistere 8*77
PeMemec, COtes du Nord 8-50
Tre*go«, COtes du Nord 8-fiO
ScaSr, Finistere 8-33
Pleucadeuc, Morbihan 8*0
Trdgune, Finistere 8-0
Be*gard, COtca du Nord 7*50
Cambue, COtes du Nord T. 7*30
Arrile*, Vendue 7-0
Fontains-sur-Marne 7*0
Kerfes, COtes dv Nord 7*0
N.B.— This list is
Salmon's Works,
Metres.
1st piece ,.,... 9-40
2nd „ 5-0
3rd „ 3-
4th „ 2-90
Metres.
Nizon, Finistbre 7-9
Pen-march, Finistbre , 7*0
Plouescat, Finistbre , 7*0
Moustolrac, Morbihan 6*60
La Boulaie, Morbihan 6-55
Cuguen, Finistbre f . 650
St. Quyomard, Morbihan 6*50
Bonrbriac, COtes du Nord 6-40
Bazougeres, Mayenne ,,„ g«o
Cargat, Lot ,.„.. g-0
Grolx, Morbihan ## . g # Q
Meneac, Morbihan , q-q
Pemnarch, Finistere q-q
Plaudren, Morbihan <j.q
Treffiagat, Finistere g^
not quite complete.
WflT or Quacwirovs.
1S8
^
LIST OF DILIGENCES AND OTHER PUBLIC VEHICLES,
Which run prom the Railway Stations in Brittany ; with
FARES, DISTANCES, AND TIMES OF DEPARTURE.
The Utter (f.) after a name signifies that there is Fishing in the neighbourhood.
FARES.
Coup*.
frTct
4 00
5 00
Day
Day...
4
Pay...
Day.
Dtiy...
• ••
2 60
In-
terlenr
fr. Ct.
2 00
60
60
60
60
1 60
60
1 76
1 35
60
60
400
1 00
5 00
50
60
50
65
50
2 00
50
8 50
60
50
2 50
•8 00
50
50
95
2 50
2 50
2 00
1 60
1 50
2 60
60
75
1 66
60
2 25
3 00
Ban-
quette.
fr. ct
2 00
59
• ••
50
50
1 50
50
1 75
1 25
50
60
1 00
50
56
60
3 50
• ••
50
2 50
2 50
1 50
1 60
75
1 60
Place* to which
Conveyance* ran
from the Hallway
4*
Antrain „
Auray
Avranchea
Bain
Baud (f.)
Bazouges - la
Pe rouse.
Begard
Binie
BearbriaQ (f.)
Brest
Broons,, .
Ca!lac(/) f
Cancale ,
Carhai? (/)
Chateaubriant.
■•••••■•*
•••••••••
Chateau Gonthier
Chateaulin (f.) ....
Cherbourg
Combourg
Corlay
Coutance*
Coutanccs
Craon
Dlnan...
Dinan
Liin&rci • >••••••••••••
Dol
•••••*■■«
Elren>
Equerdreyille...,
Erquy ,
Etables ..,
Evran
Goudelin
Gouray ,,
Guemene'.gur-
Scorff.
Guingamp (A)
rl 6C16 ••• •••••«
Henan Bihan
Hennebont (fj ....
Herblgnae ,
lie de Grofx
22
3
9
6
IS
5
12
13
82
9
82
2
2
2
• ••
• ••
17
• ••
SI
22
6
5
27
25
12
12
18
21
11
14
29
24
Railway Stations
to which
Conreyances run
Combourg .
Auray ,
Avranchea.
Bain Loheac
Baud
Combourg.....
Belle-Ile-Begard
S. Brieuc
Guingamp ...,..,...
Dre8i.»jp»..»
Broons ,
f •*•*••••
Guingamp ...
(LaGouesniere)
1 Cancale )
Guingamp
Ch&teanbriant. .. .
{
Chateau Gonthiet
Chateaulin
Cherbourg
Combourg
Quintin ...
Coutances
8. L6 ,
Craon
Dlnan
DInard
St. MalQ ...
Dol
•«•••••••
Given
Cherbourg
Lamballe...
S. Brieuc...
Dinan
Guingamp.,
Lamballe...
Pontivy ....
(
Guingamp
Montreuil-sur-IUe
Lamballe
Hennebont
Pont Chateau....
Lorient
Departure
from
Railway
Station.
a.m.
6 8(
Mee
5 45
• • •
Mee
6 25
9 49
6 42
• ••
Mee
7 25
•••
7 H>
8 46
7 10
Mee
9 10
Mee
8Q
Mee
8 15
• ••
Mee
7 60
10 5
Mee
7 45
6 4*
9 30
6
Mee
• • ■
6 67
Mee
8
5 |0
p.ru
1 4(
t all
Do.
4 60
6 45
U ull
•1 28
2 45
8
ts all
1 87
5 80
• •
6 58
ts all
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
ts all
12 10
ts nil
Do.
3 15
ts' all
8 10
7 80
ts all
• ••
2 15
• • •
4 30
• •
1
Departure
f rm Place*
to the
Railwav
a.m.
6
Trai
Do
4 80
8 45
irai
5 20
8 50
9 10
o .S5
Trai
6 15
11 8
• • •
4 16
11 50
Trai
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Trai
4 3<i
Trai
Do.
7 46
Trai
6 50
9
Trai
8 45
• ••
9
8
ts all Trai
7 014 30
ts al
Trai
9
pm
8 m
us.
a 35
ns
4 301
1 861
3 l'i
• •<
ns.
4 8t
«• *
1 65
3 60
•••
us.
Remarks.
At night, 80c.
1 10
ns
2 80|
ns.
1 16
• * •
ns.
2 50
6 20
nu.
2 50
3 £
1 3C
.«•
3 60
(Without luggage
J 40g a
(At night. 70c.
At night, 75c.
At night 00c.
At night, If. 25c ;
ns.
►«•
3 4
ns.
U15I
* This includes eonveyanoe to the vail, and steamer fare.
At night, 70c.
A^ste f
T
134
.i«T or
I a- Ban-
€>mpt linear qoette
If.
ct- f r.
..
ct
75
fr. ct
**«
3 25
•*•
2 50
*»*
50
•••
50
«••
50
•••
2 5 .
•••
50 '
•»»
1 90 1
•••
2 00
• ••
1 2 25
•••
2 00
• ».
> 75
• ••
, 060
Day...
50
1 75
1 50
2 25
2
2
00
00
1 15
75
25
50
75
50
1 SO
1 50
50
3 50
I
Day...' 50
2 00
2 60
2 00
1 25
2 00
• •*>
• ••
1 60
, 2 75
i l oo
1 25
i 4 00
3 00
2 75
50
2 20
1 25
50
3 00
50
50
50
60
50
70
<K>
1 50
1 00
1 00
50
• ••
•••
3 00
P!ar*>« to which
Com v.- yai> ♦■* run
fr>m the Kail way
hi.
JxLSfOTi ..............
Kerf .tat ..
Ker i<-n ff.j .
Lambaiif*
Lander-n^aa
Landeri*iaa
Lannfhert
Lann i on ff.j
Lanvoilon
Lanv.llon ,
La Roche Be man
Lesser en ..........
Lobeac
Rail war Station*
= 1 to which
Lorient
tandeac
Mari$mv
Mati^nion
Mauroii .....
Missilliac
Moncontonr
Mont St. Michel..
Morlaix (/.).
Monsteru ...
Mnzillac ....
Nantes
Palmpol .....
?••••*••■
Paraim?... ......
Planrogt ....
Ple*he*uel .
Pleneoi ,
Pleslin
Plcrtuit ...
Plogzal (f.) .
Plondaniel .
Ploncr
PlouveiiczQaintin| 32
Pommerit Jardy.
Pont Gamp
Pontivy
Pontrieux (f.)
Pordic
Pontorson
Portrieux
Qnintin . M . M . M ...
Qaimper ...
Quiinperle'
Recourrance
Rexlon
Rennes.
Roche Derrien....
Rochforten-Tenc
6
29
24
1
20
U
16
a
16
8
•nrevances run
13
27
28
8
16
9
12
18
33
22
24
17
9
16
23
11
11
27
28
• ••
9
8
18
30
5
16
PleneV-Joztm ..
< rain.-amp .. ...
Gallic «mp ........
Liiuhaile .._....
Lan !<>rneau
Liiid?Ti«iAa
Guin^amp _.
Liniii.'ti ,
C h a t '-1 a n d ren ... ..
Gnin^amp ,
Pont Chateau ....
Lauiieraeau ,
Me>sac.
Lorient
Loadeac
S. Lo
Lamballe
Montaaban
Pont Chateau.
Lambaile
Pontorson ....
Morlaix
Gaingamp ....
Qne»tembert..
Mantes
Guingamp ....
s. 3ia lo .........
Plenee-Jngon
Gningamp.. ..
Lam belle ,
Dinau ,
Dinan ,
Gningamp
Landerncau .
Dinan
Qnintin
Gningamp
Lamballe
Pontivy
Gningamp ,
S. Brieuc
Pontorson .....
S. Brienc ,
Qnintin
Quimper ,
Qnimpcrle"
Brest
R6don
Rennes
Guingamp
Mai ansae
Pontiyy
1
i
{
Depart are
fmm
Railway
Station.
At night, 75c
At night, 75c.
At night 80c.
At night, 60c.
list of diligences — Continued.
135
Fares.
Coup*,
fr. ct
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
• ••
Day...
Day...
In-
terieur
I
fr. ct.
5 00
4 50
50
1 25
50
50
2 50
1 00
50
50
50
50
3 00
3 50
00
3 00
75
1 25
7 25
50
1 50
60
50
50
60
60
3 00
Ban-
quette
fr. Ct
1 25
3 00
Places to which
Conveyances run
from the Railway.
Rostrenen
Rostrenen
Sable*
S. Alban
8. Anne d'Auray.
8. Brieuc
S. Cast
S. Glen
8. L6....
9« IVXAIO «•••••••••••••
S. Melior
(S. Nicholas du)
( Pelera )
(8. Nicholas duf
( Pelem )
8. Pair..
8. Quay
o. servan ...•••...•■
Sarzeau .
Sartilly .
Se*gre* ..
Torlgny .
Uzel
Valognes ....
Vannes
Villedieu....
Vire
Yvias
M
O
Q
41
50
10
• • •
• • •
27
14
' 3
25
35
20
24
53
13
3
26
Railway Stations
to which
Conveyances ran
Qaintin
Guingamp
Sable*
Lamballe
8. Anne d'Auray
S. Brieuc
Lamballe.
Lambelle.
8. L6
8. Malo
8. Meen
(LaGoi
( Cancale
Quintin .
Guingamp
(LaGouesniere)
Granville.
8 Brieuc
{
8. Malo
Vannes.
Dol
Se*gre* .
8. L6....
I
Uzel
I
Valognes..
Vannes
Villedieu ..
Vire
Guingamp
Departure
from
Railway
Station
a.m.
p.m.
9 10
• a •
• • •
8
Mee
ts all
7 45
• ••
Mee
ts all
.
Do.
6 57
■ »•
6
• ••
Mee
ts all
7
i 20
10 10
6 15
• ••
6 35
Mee
ts all
6 45
5 55
9 10
• ••
• ••
8
6 85
4 31
9 43
•••
6 42
2 15
7
2 20
10 10
6 15
• M
6 35
• ••
4
8
• ■•
Mee
ts all
• ••
4 45
9 40
2 32
10 37
4 7
• ••
8 30
Mee
tsall
Do.
Do.
Do.
•••
3 20
Departure
frm Places
to the
Railway
a.m.
10 35
1 30
Trai
Trai
Do
Trai
5 5
6 20
II 15
Trai
5 10
3 15
7 40
9 55
8
5
20
15
40
5
6
tl
6
6 40
Trai
7 30
9 5
10
•••
Trai
Do.
Do.
Do.
7 35
p.m
ns.
4 301
ns.
2
4 40
ns.
12 15
4 40
8 58
ns.
4 45
12 20
5 35
2 80
• ••
4 40
8 55
ns.
1 52
8 29
7 45
us.
Remarks.
{
From the 1st of
June to the 30th
of September.
At night, 75c
I At night, 75c.
/From 15th July
\ to 15th Sept.
) At night, If.
S- Without lug-
) gage, 50c.
( Without
\ luggage, 80c.
}
At night, 70c.
At night, 75c.
At night, 75c
Note. — Baggage, if it exceeds 601bs., is usually charged for. To convert kilometres into English
leagues, divide by 5, which gives a good approximation; but, to be quite accurate, multiply the kilometres
by 5, and divide the result by 8 — the answer will be English miles. In hiring carriages, the usual fares
arcs — "the course" (day of 8 hours), 10 fr.; the "demio course" (half a day of 4 hours), 6 fr. In sum-
mer, they will endeavonr to get much higherprices. A "pourboire" of about If. is usual, provided that
the driver be civil and diligent.
For the special benefit of Travellers, this list of " Correspondances,*" or means of inland commu-
nication between place and place, has been revised and corrected with much trouble, and only after
roing over the whole ground. As a rule, certain interested parties endeavour to withhold this
n formation as much a* they can, in order to procure the letting of their own carriages and horses to the
Traveller. He should remember that many of the "Correspondances" are postal carriages, which are
illowed to carry a few passengers. Sometimes, if he asks about a " Correspondance," he may be told
here is nono; and if he replies, " Hyw, then, are letters carried?" he is answered, "Yep-
s a postal carriage, if you call that a Correspondance; but we do not call it one." r
inderstood, however, that the times, etc., here given, are subject to changes.
■1
r
1
^
AJACCIO (Island oT Corsica).
ASTUnUHXKH.
AMSTERDAM.
Amstel Hotel
THE LARGEST HOTEL
IN TOWN.
Patronized by the highest class of English
Travellers.
SXSOHBI.T MOOmOHDID TO FAMLrKS.
Every Modern Comfort combined
with Moderate Prices.
HOTEL de l'EUROPE.
THIS old-repnted First-class Hotel has been re-liui[t. Entirely fire-proof.
Mod uf the apartments have Balconies looking on the Kalvetstraat, Place
Sophia, and the river Amstel. Best situation in Town, close to alt principal
sights. Splendid Restaurant, with terrace above the river. Ladies' Drawing
Room. Reading and Smoking Rooms. Baths on each floor. Sa.nilary arrange-
ments perfect. Lift. Electric Light. Central Heating and every modeir
comfort. No charge for light and attendance.
p mT i<buB at -Hi.a Ognteri iBta-tloax-
BRACK'S DOELEN HOTEL.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL. ST. -aLT^TCHISIEr
40, PLACE VCRTC, 40.
OPACI0U8 House of first order, newly Furnished and Decorated ; well situated,
Silting. Reading, and Smoking Roomt: fine Salle k Manger, excellent Tabic d'Hoxe, ""d ctin'ice Wines.
Patronised by tbe highest claia et Engliib and American Travellers. Engllah, American, and
AENHEIM (Holland).
GRAND HOTEL BELLEVUE
ST CLASS HOTEL and Home for Encllsh Travellers. Splendid situation
Batta*. New Kanitarr ArruiemciM.
ADVERTISEMENTS-
5
BADEN-BADEN.
FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, ^
NEAREST TO THE ^-X^^^l k
CONVERSATION HOUSE ^A^lV*
NEW VAPOUR "'-"" ^-« v ^
(FREDERICSBATHS). ^^ ^iW^J^^ ^^ Wonderfully
ELECTRIC LIGHT THR OUGHOUT.
Enlarged by 10 fine Rooms
overlooking the Park ft
the surrounding
Mountains.
quiet position
with Morning sxul
Hew Central Steam-Heating.
CHARCES STRICTLY
MODERATE.
Park of 7,000 square Metres, with cen-
tenary trees, formerly " Dukes of Hamilton."
PENSION.
HYDRAULIC LIFT IN BOTH HOUSES.
A. ROSSLER, Proprie tor.
Branch Hotel : HOTEL EM, PALLAMA (LAGO MAGGIORE).
BARCELONA.
NEW GRAND
HOTEL dANGLETERRE.
Splendid situation on Plaza de Cataluna, the largest Square in Europe.
THIRST-CLASS HOTEL. No more Table d'Hote. Board from 10 frs. daily, Electric Lift and
J- Electric Light. Modern Sanitary arrangements. Omnibuses and interpreters meet all trains.
BASLE.
basle. THREE KINGS HOTEL.
T AUG EST First-Class Family Hotel at Basle, In a quiet, healthy, and magnificent situation on
■*-* the banks of the Rhine, and in the centre of the town. Offers every available comfort. Baths
on each floor. English Church Service held in the Hotel during the season, Omnibus in attendance
at both the German and Swiss Central Railway Stations. Electric Light in every room. Lift.
Central Steam Heating.
BASLE.— HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF — BASLE.
("IPPOSITE the Central Railway Station. This Beantlfnl First-Class Establishment is the moat
^s important and the best situated, opposite the Central Station. It has been en irely re-fun*'
and fitted with the most recent improvements. Bath room on each floor. Lift. Centr
Heating. Electric Light in every room. Garden. Terrace. Restaurant. New Hall.
B. JT. GOETZINGBR, Prop*
ADVERTISEMENTS.
BELLAGIO, ON THE LAKE OF CO MO (ITALY).
HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE.
HYIMftAVlHl UPP nmi KEKCTRIC UGHT.
ONE OF THE LARGEST AND BEST MANAGED HOTELS to be found on the Italian
Lake*. The Proprietor spares no effort to give satisfaction to his visitor* It is
magnificently situated on the heights la tho midst of extensive gardena. overlooking- the two
Lakes. English Divine Service is held in a Chapel belonging to the Hotel Grande Bretapne.
A. MOTl<V Bwnvletor.
BEAUVAIS (OME) FRANCE.
i
GftAKD HOTEL CONTINENTAL
i TOIB0 r f-CLAS3 HOTEL, highly recommended, situated near the Hallway Station, afltair every
*■ accommodation. Beautiful Apartments and airy Bed Rooms. Private and Public Saloons.
, Warm Baths. Large Garden. Omnibus to and from. each Train. English Interpreter.
CHARLES PORQX7IER, Proprietor.
BEBXIB.
Eater feat Lh uten , aa* o*pe#ttc tb» Knyal Palacei
THIS old* reputed, first-class Hotel, has the beat situation- in the Town, close to all tin principal
sights and Royal Theatres. Lately re-furnished throughout. Splendid Restaurant, look in g o ut
over the "Linden." "Cafe." Drawing Room for Ladies. Baths. Lift. Table d'Hote. Electric
( Light. Newspapers in all Languages. Omnibus at Stations. Moderate Charges.
Proprietor : ADOLPH MUHLING, Purveyor to the imperial Court.
i
BIARRITZ.
HOTEL U\3 PALAIS,
FORMERLY the Residence of the EMPRESS EUGENIE, is now open
a Firet-claea Hotel. It stands in its own grounds, with a.Terrace on the border of tstSea.
The finest position in- Biarritz. Perfect English Sani tary Arrangements. Lift. Lawn Tennis.
Golf Club adj acent to the Hotel. Proprietor : C. DLTSTTE, from the Berkeley. Hotel, London* W.
annnBn«s^nnsjnnnBBawnsBBBBssnB*nc9a«nBBa^B«sc^^
BLOTS (FRANCE).
^■^AlTD HOTEL DE BL0Z3.
VENTS for Families. Ctose to the Castle of Blow. Gjtvifrrtt&fe
ge Tor visiting: Chambord and theenvirons. Omnibus at the Station. English spoken.
ADVERTISBMBVTS.
BORDEAUX.
HOTEL oe PRANCE,
ftadj WMt-Ctasa Hotel* ffcll sooth, patxwiiied by H.K.H. the Prince or Wales.
LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT.
TELEPHONE, latest system, communicating with PARIS.
CALORIFERE HEATING DAY AND NIGHT.
TABLE D'HOTE. RESTAURANT.
LADIES' BOOM. BEADING and SMOKING BOOMS.
BATH ROOM OK EACH FLOOR.
Situated opposite the Grand Theatre, the Prefecture, the Exchange, the Bank of
France, and the Fort. Saloons and 90 Rooms from 3 francs upwards ; in Pension
£3 2s. a week.
Mr. PETER'S magnificent Cellars under the Hotel, containing 80,000 bottles,
can be visited at any time in the day ; he is also Proprietor of the DomaiXLd du
Phenix, and Purveyor of Wine and Liqueurs to H.M. the Queen of England.
He sells this article in small and large quantities, in bottles or in wood, in fall
confidence. We. LOUIS PETER.
HOTEL »-» PRINCES JL PAZZ.
FIR1T-0LM8 H8TEL WIT* EVER MMBHi mWWWfT
A DMIRJLBLY situated in the centre of the Town, Highly recommended. Roeuia with Electric
«"* Light from 2 shillings upwards. Restaurant : Breakfast, 4 frs. ; Dinner, frs., wine included.
In Pension from £2 16s. a week.
GRAMD HOTEL BZCSBLXBU.
Very ComforUlOe EfetabUshmeBt. Host CenJcal KitaatiftM.
UFT. ELKCTMIC USWI.
rpABLE D'HOTB: Breakfast, 8 frs.; Dinner, 3 frs. fiOc, wine included. Restaurant at fixed
- 1 - prices, 4 frs. and 5 frs., wine included. Rooms fr om 2 shi llings upwards.
QUETJ1LLE and DARIC, Proprietors.
BORDIGHERA,
rpHE moat important and largest really FirsfrClass Hotel in Berdlgheva. Situated on the beat sheltered pars* of the 1
-*• Starts Romsna, on elevated ground, in a.beautixul large garden of 17,000 sqn»re metres, conaamime •> mam
niflcent Tiew over the Sea and the whole French Coast. Considerably enlarged and provided with. Hfdtwattc AlAt
Electric Light, Bath Booms on each floor, Steam Heating In all the Corridors and Public Rooms, and best
Banitssqr Arrangements. Larg* Halls. Music Billiard. Reading, and Ladles' Booms. Ebe Hotel Onusflyr-
trains at Bordigfccsa Station ox at YenUnigUa when required.
- Conducted by the Proprietor : A* ANGST I
ad vekti gram s.
10 ADVERTISEMENTS.
BUDAPEST.
BUDAPEST.
HOTEL ROYAL,
ELlSABETHKRIFfG, IK THE JMBDLE OF AKDRA8SY8TRAS8E.
rpHttEE Hundred Rooms with every modern comfort. Electric Light. Telephona Central
- 1 - Heating in each Room. Splendid Winter Garden. Two Lifts. Most frequented Restaurant.
Rooms from 1 fl. 60 upward, everything included. Manager, CHARLES SGHXITT.
*m
CAEN, France.
CAESL-HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
FIR8T-CLASfl HOTEL, BEST IN THE TOWN.
EXCELLENT CUISINE. COMFORTABLE ROOMS
Electric Light throughout. Baths. Telephone.
CALAIS.
TERMIlftTSr ROTEX. (Gare Maritime)
Opposite tte Steam Packet Pier. Baths. Post and Telegrap h Offices.
CENTRAL HOTEL. (Gare> Ville}.
Situated in the centre of the Town. Firsfc-Claae BoteL Post and Telegraph Office.
Electric Light Moderate Charges.
CANNES.
canmes PARC HOTEL* OA,Hl ■»
L ate C HATEAU dcs TOURS.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IK ALL THE BOOMS, TENNIS; MOST RENOWNED PARS.
Considerably enlarged. New Billiard Parlour, Southern exposure.
M. ELLMER. Proprietor.
CARLSBAD.
ANGER'S HOTEL.
Thi* FIRST-CLASS HOTEL offers special comfort to English and American Travellers.
Charges moderate. Deservedly- recomme nded . English and American Newspapers.
Omnibus at the Station. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. First-Class Eestanrans.
Mr. and. Mrs. ANGER SPEAK ENGLISH.
COLOGNE.
HOTEL DE MAYENCE.
TnxPKLLENT HOTEL, near the Railway Station and Cathedral, opposite the Theatre and General
Office. Centrally sifeated for ail right*. Comfort and economy combined. Bedrooms
" upward*. Penalcm including: Table d'Hote Dinner from 78. 64. per day and tnnrwrds.
ts Trains and Steamers.
•I. H. PETERS, Proprietor.
ADVERTISEMENTS. 1 I
OOBPU.
GRAND HOTEL ST. GEORGES.
(Pension at very moderate priced.
Situated on the best side of the Efeplansde,
FITTED UP AFT£fi THE ENOmSTOE,
Well known and highly recommended for its comfort and good attendance,
IS UHDER THE PERSONAL MAHAOBBBBOT OF THB SOLE PROPRIETOR,
ALEXANDER 8. MAZZUCHY,
DARMSTADT,
HOTEL DARMSTAEDTER HOF.
A FIRST-RATE HOTEL of old standing, superior accommodation for Gentlemen or Families.
■**• Two Coffee Rooms, excellent Table d'HOte. Smites of Apartments, with every comfort in tbe
English style, at moderate charges. Electric Light. L. WIENER, Proprietor.
N.B. — This Hotel was- established nearly a century ago by the father of the present proprietor.
A lengthened residence in England enables Mr. WIbmbs to give special satisfaction to English
travellers.
DINANT-SURrMEUSE (Belgium).
HOTEL DES POSTES,
VERY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Opposite the Railway Station and Landing Place
of Steamers.
TN the finest situation of the town, on the banks of the Meuse, with Terraces, Balconies, Reading
J- Room, Smoking Room, Telephone, and Electricity. Carriages for Excursions. Omnibus at all
Train* and Steamers. Pension from 7 franca per day. A. DBO&AA, Propgl et O*?.
ENGELBERG.
HOTEL AND PENSION SONNEUBERC.
8,400 feet above the level of the Sea. Season 10th Kay— 30th September.
MAGNIFICENT Fint-claee BatabUahment, one of the best managed in Switzerland, and In the.tter'
■trnsHnw . BpeataJBr mtaosdsed by BnsJlah'Ksiamlies. 90mRoetm. BweUent T>M »vd^ot o jaUQj^jr
Home. P e nsi o n i mm- #9 0* a week, up war d s . Col*, Warm, and Shower "Baths; BSMBTIVV? <
IS ADVERTISEMENTS.
BNOKLBKBG -Continued.
Kurhaus Hotel et Pension Titus
3,400 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.
VIR8T-CLA3S HOTEL, best situated in the valley, in tbe middle of an extensive Garden.
x 240 Bed*. Large Sitting Rooms. Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms. English Chapel
in the Garden. Moderate charges. Cook's Tickets taken. Open from 1st May to 1st October.
HPHIS NEW FIRST-CLA88 HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, with 260 Beds, fine Sitting
x Rooms, tiro Lifts. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Central Heating. Opposite the Hotel
Titlis. Opened on May 15th, 1899. The building is fitted up according to the most recent hygienic
principles. The rari-'us medical appliances fulfil tha^ utmost demands of modern science and furnish
everything necessary for Hydropathic, Mechanical, and Electric treatment.
For Prospectus and Tariff, please apply to the Proprietor of Hotel Titlis and the Xnranstalt.
ED. CATTAWI.
FLORENCE.
GD. HOTEL D ITALIE
LUNG ARNO NUOVO.
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL THE BOOHS.
FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN.
CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
Opposite the Central Railway Station. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.
Electric Light. lift, Calorlferes. R. G ERST EX BRAND, Proprietor.
FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden).
HOTEL de 1 EUROPE
(zaxrzi.oz^^^xsojazBzi. hop).
NEW FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the left, near the Railway Station,
close to Post Office, and a few minutes from the Cathedral. In finest open
situation on the Promenade, quite surrounded by nice Garden*. Covered
and open Terraces for open air Restaurant. Electric Light and Steam
Heatins Baths on same floor. Dark Room. Perfect Sanitary arrangements*
Newspapers. Moderate prices. Pension. Hotel Porters at erery
Tinibus wanted.
HOT, Proprietor, for many years at De Keyser's Royal Hotel, London.
rSEUOEHSTADT (Germany).
BLACK FOREST
HOTEL.
pmBT Clan Haul, nrmadad Sj ■
* mr bwnlliil Fmk. CmihirtaM*
B«n larr artaannwoai jwr(.ci.
GENEVA (Switzerland).
HOTEL de RUSSIE et CONTINENTAL
MAGNIFICENT POSITION ON THE LAKE OPPOSITE MONT BLANC.
_.. ^ 1JpT buohjo lioht !
Muaged by the Proor
RICHMOND FAMILY HOTEL
rvpPOSrrE the Jardin dea Alpes and Landing Stage. Facing the Lake and Host
** BUnO. M good Kooma, All modern comfort.. Terrace. Lift, Electric Light, Central
Heating, etc Two Villal wllh lirgegrouildiaro connected with the Hotel Tamil; nreaafut, 1 It GO-
Luncheon. 3 f c-h. ; Dinner. 3 Ira. 10; Kooois. wi!h li G l,tai„l .Itnuhira. from 3 [,«. .',". pension
Terma lor .ley ol fly* dan or longer. OmnlbDa at the Station. A. B. ARMLEDER, PUPIIETDR.
uet. HOTEL. DE LA POSTE. urr.
ipHI8 HOTBt,, with thBbMtiaQiUrrarmngcmeoU. tasltiutK! In thafltwat part of the Town, close to
Unfile Gentlemen for ite great comfort and Tory moderate charges.
rolaphons. "
I IK It, Proprietor.
S-A-VO-y SOTBLj.
THE most fashionable First-Olaas House in the place, expressly built
for an Hottl in 1SS4. and newly furnished with every modern comfort. View of the Bel.
Electric Light ami Cnlorlff re throu E hout the Home. English annliary arrangement a. Tw- ' •'•-
for Til lion ami Lounge Hatha and Shower Hath. Reading and Smoking Room. Win"
UFFEBT and FI0B0NT, Ff
(4
GLIOJT.
CftAND HOTEL DU RICHI VAUDOIS GLION.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, enlarged and entirely renewed, with the best comfort-
150 Rooms. One of the finest situations in Switzerland. Central Heating.
Moderate Charges. Open all the year.
P. REBCHELMANN, Proprietor.
THE HAGUE.
PAULEZ' HOTEL (Lmhteo). the maoue.
fFHIS FIRST-RATE HOTEL, oi tuft ted in the quietest quarter of the City, in the vicinity of the
-*- Opera, Museum*, and Uoyal Park ; cannot be too highly recommended for its accommodation,
the excellence of its Table d'Hote and Wines, added to the attention and civility shown to travellers.
" Restaurant a la Carte'' at any hour. Splendid Reading and Dining Rooms. The only Hotel with
Lift (aaeensor). Electric Light all through the Hotel. Bath. Carriages. Moderate Charges.
Arrangements made daring the Winter Season.
HAVRE.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
RUB de PARIS. 124-126.
"EXCEEDINGLY well situated in the best quarter of the Town, recommended for its comfort and
•" moderate charges. Aptrtmems for Families. Music and Conversation Saloons. Rooms from
2 to 5 francs. Restaurant h la Carte. Table d'Hote. Breakfast 2 frs. 60 c. Dinners 2 fr«. English
and German spoken. -GRBLLB, Proprietor.
HTEBES.
GRAND HOTEL DES HESPERIDES.
Mrs. MARTIN VIBAJL,
4 * A veritable home. Every English comfort ; excellent Table; superb situation ;
and most moderate Terms." — Medical Press.
TEHSPMOiTK. Telegrapiil e Address : HSSPSMIIMBB, BVEBS8.
CARRIAGE FOR LINKS. SHELTER FOR BICYCLES AND MOTOR CARS.
IGLS (Innsbruck, Tyrol).
aGLS-TYROL, 3,M6 feet above the Sea. One hour from InnstonKk.
"PIBST-CL ASS HOTEL in the Alps. High Climatic Terrain Cure, in magnificent situation, on an elevated plain with
- 1 - RgfliMirild view. House constructed with every modern comfort, In proximate vicinity of the large Pine "Woods of
the Hotel, with fine Promenades and Resting places. Cold, Warm, Bool, Pine, and Mad Baths. Carriages in the
ttol. 20 minutes from the Lauaer Lake (Mud and Inhalation), with good Bath Establishment. Water heated up to
R. (a rarity in the Alp*). Re-Opening 1st May. In May, June, and September, very moderate Pension charges,
Mil) recoiowended for Autumn and Spring Residence. Physicians. Post and Telegraph Office. Lawn Tennis;
Proprietor: A. ZIMMER, Purveyor to (he Royal Court.
nmBBRTTCK (Austria).
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT.
Admirably situated, opposite the Railway Station, affords every modern comfort,
has the largest, loftiest, and finest Dining Room (for about 250 covers).
ELECTRIC LIGHT IN EVERY ROOM, AND THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE.
Commands from the Belvedere of the bouse a most magnificent view of the
entire valley of the Inn.
TABLE D'HOTE. PRIVATE DINNERS, AND "A LA CARTE."
Smoking Room and Reading Room in Roccooo Style.
STEAM AND OTHER BATHS.
ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS. TELEGRAPH OFFICE.
CABBIACnS Iff THE E4MBE.
ARRANGEMENTS MADE AT MODERATE TERMS.
AMTM HhUHUaCB, Pre*rtos*r,
T ^T^rg TET ? TTf*TF *■ ««P«n»lly reeommended by Prof. Dr. Jaooond, of Parte, for benefloial enVets of its
•VwFI wl ABA W Wash climate on weak constitutions both in Summer and Winter. It has a renowned Vnirer-
sity-awd oflkn great educational advantages. Splendid Skating in Winter. Turkish, Vapour, and Salt Swimming
Hatha, Very frequented Winter Station at low altitude.
HOTEL TIROL.
TJXESY-QLABS aVtabliahment near the Station. Over 190 elegantly furnished Booms. Reading, Smoking, Retiring
J> Rooms. Hatha. Fine Garden. ITIatllk LUkt, lift. Special sgra iig a m t aU "
moderately Pension. Winter terms. Dlnrtrmted* Pamphlet fr— om application.
Fine Garden. BtoctHi Light, lift. Speotal sjrranswatnts forprotraeted stay, and extremely
^^ CAIUL LANOSEE, Propr.
INTERLAKEN (Switaerlawi).
HOTEL BEAU SITE-PENSION
UNPARALLELED and most desirable situation, with fall view of the Jungfrau, Mimed, and
Eiger. Large shady Garden. Tariff: Breakfast, lfr. 50c.; Lunch, 2fr. 50c.; Dinner, 3fr. £0c a
Rooms from 2fr. English Sanitation. Pension from 6fr. upwards. Baths. Omnibus at the Station]
J. WtJBTH, Proprietor.
Branch Houss:- HOTEL de TURIN et BEAU SEJOUR, MENTONE.
HOTEL NATIONAL.
PENSION WYDEtt.
COMMANDS A MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE JUNGF
UsfT. MfMtBBATB CEUaBwES. ELECTRIC UCEfl
16 ADVERTISEMENTS.
KONIGSWINTER (Petersberg), Rhine.
HOTEL ON THE PETERSBERG.
ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAINS OF THE SIEBENCEBIRCE.
ENTIRELY new building and every comfort. Airy lodging-rooms and
Saloons with a fine view, large dining: and restaurant rooms. Large plateau with forest and
parks, and beautiful shady promenades. Magnificent views in greater variety than from any other
point of the Seven Mountains. Every Wednesday, Military Free Concert. Table d'Hote at 1 15
o'clock. Dinners and Suppers at any hour. Acknowledged good cuisine and choice wines. Pest
and Telegraph in the house. Wwe. PETER JOS. NELLES.
• Address for letters and telegrams : Nell6S, Petersberg (Rhine).
Communication with Kdnigswinter directly by a Cog-wheel Railway. Corresponds with all
trains of the State Railway and Steamers.
LAROCHETTE (Grand Duchy of Luxemburg).
IAROCHETTE.— Grand Duchy or Luxemburg. Centre or " La petite Suisse
Luxembourgeolge.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA POSTE.
CONSIDERABLY enlarged. Every comfort. Reading Room. Garden. Lawn-Tennis. Baths.
English Sanitary Arrangements. Very moderate charges and Pension arrangements. Special
arrangement for Children and Servants. Excellent Trout fishing reserved by the Hotel.
TSCBIDERElfrKAISER.
LAUSANNE (Switzerland).
HOTEL BEAU SITE et BELVEDERE MONTBENON.
CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED, 150 Beds, Unrivalled situation in Lausanne. Splendid view over
^ the Alps and Lake. Large Terraces and Gardens. Cafe*-Restaurant. Lift. Central Heating.
Electric Light in every Room. English Sanitary arrangements. Latest comfort. Arrangements for
the whole year. Special Pension price in winter. Rooms from 2 frs. 60 upward. Moderate charges.
J. A. SCHMIDT, Proprietor.
LUCERNE.
HOTEL VICTORIA.
TUTODERN-BUILT HOTEL, on the new Boulevard Pilatus. Most quiet and central position.
-"■*- Electric light and warm water heating throughout. Lift. Baths. Fine Restaurant, with
open terrace. Open all the year. Pension arrangements.
ALB. RIEDWEG, Proprietor.
LUGANO (Switzerland).
vm HOTEL BELLEVUE AU LAC. WM
HOTEL occupies the finest position on the Lake. Full South. Magnificent view from
■» Room. Very pleasant large Hall and public Rooms. Electric Light in every Room,
ating throughout. Sanitary arrangements. Opposite Steamboat Landing — "Paradiso."
Charges. Pension.
LANDGRAF & GAENG, Proprietors.
LYONS.
BEST HOTEL JH HHJSBT BTfUATIOV.
The GRAND HOTEL.
The only Hotel In Lyon oonflnctad on
Enrllih nrlnolplai.
THE MOST POPLI.AK AND FASHIONABLE.
HACOUN (Lake of Bienne), Switzerland.
THE GRAND or ETJREATJS.
T7NTIEELI flraproM. Lighted by >u. » Bedroomi— *0 with b.lcoiile.. Ptrfaot —lllirj
n amuguaanU. Superior cooking. L.U pinner. Ev- tr cmlort. Pott, Telrgnnh, Ma-bane
In the hotel. English CnntiUlnindReildeiitPliyilclan. Coofe'B Ocuponi taken. Tennl. Coort.
Lettcn and Telngrami— Knihani Mntwiln (Hn-iti). Reduced terma Oil July 10th Mid bom
September 1st. Proprietor, and Manager, A. WABLLY.
MADEIRA-(Fiuichal),
Reids Hotels
ESTABLISHED 1850.
By appointment to H.R.H. The Dnke of Edinburgh.
BEHre NEW HOTEL fe ANNEXES. -SitontfflJ ~
I 0AKKO nOTRI..-]
Telegrams: "HELD, FUNGHAL."
t Free of Passmore, 124, Cheapside; "Hotel
xM.ruau, oB, Regent Street, London; -and J. and H. Lit
7, Waterloo Place. Edinburgh ; or Wm. Bald, Madoira.
^
GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. THE ONLY FRENCH HOTEL IN MADRID.
ELECTRIC LIGHT, BATH. COURIERS. CARRIAGES. ELECTRIC UFT.
J. CAPDfiVIELLE, Proprietor.
MARTIONY (Switierlaid).
GRAND HOTEL r>B LA PIERRE-A-VOIR.
•XSSSI
s.'esj
Chan*. BKlUhCbufeln ™ii"it- Ourf r.^kln.. r III II. I llsmnl ll J iTl ll I
pnulBlnr. P""l u-1 T.lmWn [Hflc Kutjnj iuwi 10 nils lliUu DeatrUn.
rhjMl» Up,. rrlMilWri J. ■lAfiCsM
h»p». rwnnnt.
MARSEILLES.
GRAND HOTEL de MILAN.
SITUATED on the "Via Aleasandro Manzoni." With all modern improve-
Electric Light Price L<H Jn erery Room. J. BPATZ, Proprietor.
Co-proprietor if tht Qrmi Until al Venice, and 'lie Qrand Holet at Leghorn.
HOTEL ETjnOPB
CORSO VITTORIO EM.
Central, with view on the Cathedral, and qnf at Booms facing the Gardens.
SELECT FAMILY HOTEL. EVERY MODERN COMFORT.
L. SERTOLI HI. roitiRli at Hia-KrMio.
HOTEL du NORD.
iiEoomi. Winter GsrHm. ScaUnimnt. Moderate Terms.
sod ■ttendsnoo frorn Jf r. 60c Cook'i Coupons secerned.
'. CXILKOJ1, ProuFlelur. - CH. CAIXIA, DtrwUr.
ADVERTISEMENTS. 19
1
MILAN Continued.
BELLINI'S HOTEL TERMINUS.
la the immediate vicinity of the Railway Station*
VEW, with all modem improvements. Highly recommended, being scrupulously clean, carefully
-^ attended, and with moderate charges. Electric Light and Central Heating in every Room.
Sanitary arrangements perfect. Pleasant Garden. Porter meets all Trains. Hotel Coupons
accepted.
J. BELLINI, Pr oprietor.
MONT-EORE-LES-BAINS (France).
HOTEL SARCIRON-RAINALDY.
FORMERLY CHABAURY, AINE.
The best situated, the most comfortable and frequented of the Town. Sanitary
arrangements perfect Lift Lawn Tennis. Cottage. Villas.
Apply to Mr. BAltClKON-BAIMALDY.
MONTREUX (Clarens).
AND
CHATEAU BELMONT.
A FINE FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL (only Hotel on an elevated
situation), with large splendid Villa, especially frequented by TfrigHnli families, with
•very modern comfort, latest sanitary and heating arrangements, in the Healthiest, sunniest,
most quiet, and charming part of the district, stands
WELL UP FROM THE LAKE,
OVERLOOKING THE LAKE
And Country, surrounded by Vineyards, shady Terraces, and Park. Splendid panoramic views;
easy access from town, five minutes from Montreux Station and the Tramways. Dark Room.
Charming residence for change and rest all the year round. Lift. Bath Rooms, Balconies,
Tennis. Electric Light. Omnibus (use of Omnibus for Churches and Kursaal).
ARRANGEMENTS FOR PROLONGED STAY.
MANAGED BY THE PROPRIETOR:
THOS. UNGER DONALDSON,
also of Grand Hotel Victoria, St. Beatenberg.
MUNICH.
MUNICH
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL
UIRST-CLAS3 HOTEL. Unsurpassed, finest, and most Quiet situation on Maximilian -
■E the middle of the Town, and most central for visiting Theatres and all places of ir
modern comforts. Lift. .Electric Light. Moderate charges. Favourite W lfter Real-
prices . M. DIENER, Pi
F. WBHHKYER, Bf answer, formerly SenweJieraof, Lucerne, and Bhepheard'4
7t
MDRREN.
GRAND HOTEL des ALPES.
OPEN from the 1st of Mar till 30th October. Combines ererj modern
omdxt. Alln»a»uiii Saloon* lighted by Electric Light. G«od uummodattoa.
PARKER'S HOTEL
OSTEND.
CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
The largeamnrt- olan Hotej,
alow to tba New KoniaaJ.
REAMMMDS1C ROOMS
BATHS.
FIRST-CLASS
RESTAURANT.
HYDRAULIC LIFT.
Lighted Throughout
bj Electricity.
350 BEDS.
cable A
▲DVBRTiattMSBmi. ft
OSTKND Continued.
GREAT OCEAN HOTEL,
FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT.
Considerably enlarged and improved.
UNRIVALLED FOR ITS SPLENDID SITUATION,
FACING THE SEA AND THE BATHS.
Close to the New Kursaal and the Residence of the Royal Family.
ELECTRIC LIGHT. BATH ROOMS.
IPTJ rjIJF*T!
LEON THOMA, Proprietor.
THE SPLENDID.
The most fashionable Hotel and Restaurant In the place.
Finest sitvatftoBW facing- the Sea and Baths, and next to the Palaoe of the Boyal Family.
ALL MODERN COMPORT.
300 BEOS AND 8ALOONS.
Cable Address :— " SPLENDID, OSTEND."
GRAND HOTEL DU LITTORAL
FACING THE SEA.
Lift. Electric Light. Board from 10s.
Gd. HOTEL LEOPOLD II et de FLANDRE.
T>B0OMJtBVDBD Ftnt-elass English Family Hotel and Pension. Splendid situation. Nearest to.**
x * Ktrsaai* and Casino ; close to and with Tiew of the 8a*. Every modern comfort. Lighted th
MlectrleUj. Sitting and Smoking Bourns. English Servants. Good Bedrooms, light, and ttteadaaf
• day. Heart (hodroom, three mea la. light, and attendanoa) from 9 frs. m day. Very .
for Families and long stay. All enquiries receive prompt attention. 'Bus at Trains and Steamers,
and Cellar. CiviUfar.
E. DAVID VANCUYCK, Proprietor and Manager, resided many years
Concessionary of the Restaurant and Cafe— Kursaal.
22 ADVERTISEMENTS.
PABAME (Near St. Malo) FRANCE.
i din
SEA-BATHIHG or PAEAMI-mv St. Malo (TnaMl-The fln»t Band ShoKtfen the Coafte of Brittany
nmmmM by charming panorama, picturesque sight*, and splendid views. Sweet and til* salubrious climate.
CITU-aTED on the Terr Shore, near the Casino and Bathing Establishment. First- "lass Hotel, Wftnh frequooted by
° the best English Families. Beautiful Dining Boom. BeaUurant. Saloon. Lawn Tennla, Hot Baths and
Telegraph in the House. Very large garden. Great comfort and moderate charges. Very adTunWjluns condition!
in July and September. Omnibus of the Hotel to all Trains and Steamers.
RIO U BLEB and GRA.ION. ProHtotor*.
PARIS.
MIRABEAU
HOTEL ET RESTAURANT.
8, RUE DE LA PAIX, 8,
(Place Yendome. Place de 1' Opera. )
PEACE. COMFORT. EASE.
Same Management in Summer, May— October, at Chatel Guyon (Pay da Ddme).
Splendid et Nonvel Hotels, and at Contrexevllle (Vosges) Grand Hotel
~ PBAQUE.
Prague. HOTEL de SAXE.
OLD RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, a few steps from the
Central Station. In the centre of the town at the corner of the Channel Large Dining Room,
Winter Garden, etc. Electric Light. Telephone. Balha. Carriages. Moderate Charges.
Hydraulio Lift. Otis System. W. BE5E8, Proprietor.
RAGATZ (Switzerland).
RAGATZ, SWITZERLAND.
AND HOTEL TAMINA.
ST-CLASB HOTEL, in communication with the Mineral Baths.
commended. Pensiox I/ft. Electric Light. Telephone. Garden.
G. JAUIE, Proprietor.
▲DYBKTISBMRNVI. 23
EOTTEEDAM
LEYGRAAFFS HOTEL.
OPPOSITE the Park. Established since 1826. Partially heated by Calorifere.
Times, Daily Hews, Daily Telegraph, Standard, and Scotsman mailed
daily. Omnibuses meet Trains and Boats on application.
Telephone No. 233. Telegrams: LEYGRAAFF, ROTTERDAM.
ROUEN.
GRAND HOTEL de PARIS.
▼«ry awl <!■■ aaft best dtoated HofcaL Oppoalt* the landing placet of foe
VIEW on the 8eiue, Bon Secours, Pont Corneille, and lie Lacroix. Near a Post and Telegraph Office,
1 the Theatre, and the principal Monument*. Large and small Apartments. Choice Cuisine.
Renowned Wines. English spoken. Bicycles may be deposited. 8helters for Motor-Cars. Dark
Room for Photographers. Telephone No. 556. Hotel Correspondent of the Touring Club.
Kept by Mr*. Vve. BAT AM. 1RD. formerly proprietress of the Hotel 4e lTarope, at
ST. BEATENBERG (CANTON DE BERNE, SUISSE.)
Q-r DCATCilREDP 4 ' 000 FEET above the sea.
Ola DLfl I CllDLnU LAKE OF THOUNE, near INTERLASEN.
The most successful Alpine Health Resort, The
GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
ESPECIALLY frequented by English families, is the only First-Class
Hotel with every modern comfort, built in stone, with latest sanitary and
heating arrangemenst Central situation, the best position of St. Beatenberg.
Bath Rooms, Shandy Terraces, Pine Woods, nice Tennis Ground, etc. With
exquisite Lake, Forest, and Mountain scenery, magnificent panoramic views on the
Lake of Thoune, Bernese, Oberland, etc. A charming residence for change
and rest. Purest air. The Hotel has its own Spring, furnishing excellent
water. Numerous mountain ascents, walks, and excursions for climbers and
non-climbers. A mountain railway runs from Beatenbucht, the landing stage for
Steamers on the Lake of Thoune. Good carriage route from Interlaken (two hours'
drive). Post. Telegraph. Protestant (English) and Catholic Churches. Resident
Physicians. Excellent Cooking. Moderate charges and arrangements for pro-
longed stay.
Managed by the Proprietor : THOS. UNGER DONALDSON ;
also of the Hotel Belmont, Mo
Telegraphic Address: "VICTORIA, BEATENBERG/'
f
t
▲d VBKrmmaf** .
ROYAT-LES-BAINS (France).
T*HIS First-class Hotel, occupying the beat position In Royat, is situated in its own extensive
x ground* at an altitude of 1.S00 feet, at the entrance of the Valley leading up to the Puy-de-
D^aa%near the Bath Establishment and Park. Large Garden extending down to the Railway
Statton, with terraced walks, commands beautiful extensive views on tbe Puy-de-Dome and on the
Tinaftim, Perfect sanitary arrangements. Eletric light. Lift Three large Lawn .Tennis Courts.
Opes from the 1st of May till October tfee 15th. L. SERVANT, Proprietor.
ST. MALO (France).
ST. MALO, FRANCE.
qd. hotel de FRANCES CHATEAUBRIAND.
GENUINE Family Hotel, the best and the most comfortable. Situated in the finest part of
the towa» near the Beach; Sea View. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Moderate Charges
MAISONNEUVE, Proprietor and Manager.
ST. VALERY s/SOMME (France).
ST, VALERY (SOHHE). The healthiest spot on the French Coast.
With its beautiful terraoe, situated right opposite
the Sea. Picturesque walks and drives, unique
Shady Avenues, Promenades. Sea and Biver
fishing. An ideal resort for retired Officers and
YachtspuMb Good Cycling Roads. N.B.— The special feature in the Winter is the excellent Wild Fowl and Teal
Shooting. Prices moderate. Route, 1} hour from Boulogne-sur-Mer, changing at Noyelles. Spring is delightful for
erenrsfamafor people to break the journey returning from the South. Dark Room for Photographers.
Address Hlanaflrer v Grand Hotel* St. Yalery (Sonne).
GRAND HOTEL,
SAN REMO (Italy).
HOTEL EUROPE et PAIX
(RE5EWED).
UFT. BATHS. Electric Light in every Room. Restaurant for Nen-Residents also.
liMOM Hotel on the Promenade, Opposite Station 1 and Public Gardens. Fine view. South.
Open from October until end of May. P. M. LAGQEB-BU&GENE&.
Ooxpcopcietor of Hotels Larger and Kampfar at Baaa-fea, Vtege, and BtaUan, ▼alala, Ssiia*.
SOHINZNAOH (on the-Aar) Switzerland.
SGNINZNACH.
Oft THE AAR (Switzerland).
RAILWAY STATION.
BATHS & HEALTH RESORT.
Strongest Sulphurous Waters.
Rich in Sulphur and Carbonic Acid,
Indication : Scrofula, Rachitis, Chronic Catarrh of the Respiratory Organs^.
ism, Neuralgia, Neurosis, Skin Diseases, and Dyscrasy.
tions and Pulverizations; Thermal Sulphur Baths, connected
It Baths. Large Wooded Park. Excellent Residence for Ladies and
Catholic and Protestant Divine Service in Private Chapel. Knrmusik.
[ Physician to the Kurhaus, Dr. O. AMSLBR.
Prospectus from the IMrectioB*
SPA.
SPA— Oldest, finest, and most efficacious Mineral ferruginous Waters— SPA
HOTEL DE FLANDREl
SURY, Senior, Proprietor. I
THE LARGEST FIRST-CUSS HOTEL I
aBAND HOTEL IDE L'ETJROPE.
■ENBABD MI€BABD, Proprietor.
THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, greatly improved and beautiful] j situated, in close
EXTENSIVE ACCOMMODATION FOB FAMILIES. 0™t comfort.' Electric Light.
STRASSBDHO.
HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS.
fTNlVEBBALLY r.
STTJTTGABT.
HOTEL MABQTJARDT
IS situated in the finest part of the town, in the beautiful Place Rnwl.
■djolnlns the Ball »>y Station and the Poet Office, near to tho Theatre and the Roy '
' GRAND HOTEL Je LEUBOre tt dn MIDI REUNIS.
tl Hutakln Fuca. F«liion»Mj In^otnim. mp«l*ilT br tnjll.h ud
lajaMBwdlnf andConrtnlotiRooai. New. [Hirer.. Greatly HHM
n. and >B|Hrlor CdItIm. BeMsurant arid Tible il H ole. Enifllih ir»k«.
loom ud Snlon. DDFOUTS, Proprietor.
(Black Forest). TBIBESO. (715 metres above Sea).
Hotel. AA7"ehhlb.
P. WEHRLE, Proprietor.
Beat situation mnr the Waterfalls, for a long time well known ss
HOTEL z. OCHSEN. ~~'
Every Knglisli comfort. Baths. Electric Light. Milk Cure. Omnibus at
the Station. Carriage!. Moderate Charge I. Petition. Park-Gardnn. Good
Trout Flihintf. Concerts in front of the Hotel. Telephone. The proprietor gives
belt Information for excursions in the Black Forest. The Hotel Wehrle,
not very large, but very comfortable, Is highly recommended by
German and Foreign Guide Books.
^TEL BELLE VUE.
hl™* n Plr, ,V? 1 "" T **°ny Hotel, cloie lo the Waterfall* and Forest Vtry
^rnt-j ^Drawing Room aii<i Bestaurant 'Bslrinii-tTll ™in,i the tton«..
athalDeotrlo Light English Comfort Pension. Moderate Charges,
all Train*. AmEiT BOTZINGER, Proprietor.
▲DVBBTISEMENTS. 27
TURIN.
GRAND HOTEL
HOTEL D'EUROPE.
THIS SPLENDID HOTEL, situated on the Piazza Castello,
*■ and five minutes' walk from the Station, Post, Telegraph, etc.,
is furnished to afford Residents every possible convenience and
comfort.
Lighted by Electricity. Heated by Hot-air Stoves.
BATH, SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS PERFECT.
Single and Double Bedrooms, and splendid Suite of Apart-
ments at moderate charges.
A. BORQO, Proprietor.
VENICE ,
HOTEL de 1 EUROPE.
The best position of the Grand Canal, opposite the Dogana.
Magnificent Yiew on the Lido, S. Giorgi, 8. Maria della Salute.
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE. LIFT.
PERFECT SANITATION. EVERY HOME COMFORT.
MARSEILLE BROTHERS, Proprietors.
VIENNA.
FROHNER'S HOTEL IMPERIAL.
L K&rntner Ring, 16.
Honoured by visit* of the European Regents and Princes*
"PIR8T-CLABB HOUSE, and best situated, in close proximity to H. Majesty's Court, the Opera H<
* Museums, and Public Pardens. It (ontniiB 144) well furnlsled Bed and Drawing Ro< ins, Eat
Reading Rooms : al»o two rithlv decoratrd and lufty Dluii-j? Booms. Te'ephone. Bydran'ic Lift. Elei
Persons 01 ai£,h position, a^ woli as lar^e iambics, will And this Httei well adapted for a prctra
28 AiKVBKrmKHm.
WIESBADEN, BATHS OF.
HOTEL ROSE AND BATHS.
rpHIS First-class Hotel, with every modern comfort, is newly enlarged by a splendid building, and
•*• situated in the finest and healthiest part of Wiesbaden, opposite the Promenade, close to the
Curhaas and Royal Theatre. Lift. Electric light. Steam Heating. Arrangements made for a
prolonged stay. Shooting Grounds and Trout Fishing free for the quests of the Hotel. Table cTHote
at 1 and 1-30 o'clock. H. HAEFFNER, Proprietor.
WILDBAD (Black Forest).
HOTEL KLUMPP
THIS First-class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 215 Bedrooms, with a
separate Breakfast, New Ladies', Music, Reading, and Conversation Rooms, as well as a
Smoking Saloon, a very extensive and elegant Dining Room, and an Artificial Garden over the
river* to, beautifully situated in connection with the Old and New Bath buildings and Conversation
House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and Trinkhalle. It is celebrated for its
eleganfcMd comfortable Apartments, good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputa-
tion as «n excellent Hotel. Table d'Hote. Breakfasts and Suppers a to Carte. Restaurant.
Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking Houses of London for the payment of
C ircular NotM and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each Train. Fine Private
Carriages, Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Lift to every floor. Excellent accommodation.
Arrangements made for a prolonged stay.
Reduced prices for Rooms during the months of May and September.
HOTEL BELLE VUE,
WHIS First-class Hotel is beautifully situated on a terrace facing the new
-ft- Trinkhalle, at the entrance of the Promenade, and within five minutes 1 walk from the English
Church. It is well known for its cleanliness, good attendance, and moderate charges. The
Cuiainedepartnxent and Wines will afford satisfaction to the most fastidious taste. A great part of
the Hotel has been newly furnished, and the drainage entirely reconstructed. Excellent Sitting and
Bed Rooms, furnished with English comfort. Conversation, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Ladies'
Music Room. The Times and other Papers taken in . Warm and Cold Baths in a separate building.
The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train during the season. Covered communication between th*
HoteJ and new Bath House.
BAD-WILDUNGEN (Waldeck) Germany.
KURHAUS HOTEL et VILLA COECKE.
""ST-CLASS, in the centre of the Baths and Promenades, next to the
-pork, connected with the bath establishment. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Carriages
'i»> Telephone, No. 3.
Proprietor, H. GOECKE, Purveyor to the Royal Court.
XDTBBTtSSMBNTS. '2*1
ZERMATT (Switzerland).
GRAND HOTEL TERMINUS.
FIRST-CLASS HOU8E.
rkPEN from the 16th Hay until the 31st October. Electric Light throughout. Bathi on each floor.
^^ Restaurant. Covered Verandah. Guides and Mules at the Hotel. Tickets from TraveHIng
Agencies accepted. J. DOL-LAUBER, Proprietor.
ZURICH.
DOLDER "J" ZURICH.
THIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished Hotels. Sheltered
position, and splendid view. Newly opened on the Zuricliberg. Pension on moderate charges.
GUERNSEY.
OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE HOTEL,
m =
FORMERLY THE OFFIOIAL RESIDENCE OF THE UEUTENANT-COVEBNOB OF T HE I8UVND.
THIS long-established and first-class Hotel, for Families and Gentlemen,
is famed for its excellent Cuteine, its choice Wines, and the thorough comfort ol all fcta araauge-
ments, combined with the most moderate charges.
Standing in its own grounds, and situated in the higher and best part of the town of fit. Peter-Port, it
commands from its windows and lawn unrivalled views of the entire Channel 'Group— including
Alderney on the north ; Jersey on the south ; Sark, Herm, and Jethou immediately opposite ; with the
distant and historic coasts of Normandy beyond.
An extensive new wing has been added, comprising about forty additional apartments— including
spacious and lofty Bedrooms, with southern aspect and magnificent sea views. Hot and Gold Baths.
Smoking Booms, and all the modern improvements. Tariff on application. Special arrangements
during the Winter months.
THE FINEST DINING SALOON IN THE CHANNEL ISLARBS,
Capable of Accommodating Two Hundred Guests.
■j«/^^3Xj2S ID*!BEC> a J. a JU. IE
SPLENDID NEW BILLIARD ROOM WITH TWO TABLES,
BY BURROUGHES & WATTS.
Private Carriages. Ici on parte Francais. Hier man apricht Deutsch.
Five minutes' walk from the Landing Stages. A Porter from the Hotel attends the arrival of all
Steamers. Booms may be secured by letter or telegram. A Dark Boom for Photographers.
Registered Telegraphic Address-'* GOV. GUERNSEY."
Le]
aOlBNBKY Continued.
1ABX, CHANNEL ISLANDS,
A FIRST-CLASS COUNTRY HOTEL.
On the mufll bracing ipot In the Ia!andp.
The largest and only Hotel on the Island
with a Sea View.
D. OOniV, PronrtcUr.
GRAND HOTEL.
Stands In an unrivalled position facing the Sea.
IS THE LARGEST, THE BEST APPOINTED, AND THE
LEADING HOTEL
Vti^raphie Adiriu: " GRAND, JERSEY." O. DC LIBL ll-IWL
Royal Yacht Glub Hotel
THE OLDEST *£*«,» FIRST-CLASS HOTEL
IN THE 49I& ISLANDS.
THE FINEST POSITION FACINC THE SEA AND HARBOURS.
Re-built and Re-furnished. Over 120 Rooms.
busses meet all boats.
Telfigraphk Address- ■'» YACHT, JERSEY."
▲DVERTISKMENTS. 81
^
JXRSKY Continued.
THE BRITISH HOTEL,
Flx-st-olctss PAmJJL^r «txxc3. Ooxumeroial.
CENTRALLY situated, within Three Minutes 1 walk of Pier, Markets, and
Post Office. The best Stock Rooms in Channel Islands (on the premises). Omnibus meets all
Boats. Billiard Boom. Hot and Cold Baths. Terms moderate. Table d'hot e at 6 p.m. The
Proprietor's own Drag starts from the Hotel daily. J. H. VENN, Proprietor.
COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY.
BEST KNOWN HOTEL IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS.
Terms, a/a per diem. Omnlhas meets all Boats.
F. H. MIDDLETON, Proprietor.
PRINCE'S TOWER HOTEL,
A Charming and Romantic Spot. Two-and-a-half miles from St. Heliers,
The Finest View of the Island. Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, at the shortest notice.
H. WICKERS, Proprietor.
ROYAL SQUARE, JERSEY. '
THE oldest established and most centrally situated Family and Commercial
Hotel in St. Heliers. Ladies 1 Room. Six Stock Rooms. 'Bus meets Steamers. Billiard Table.
Under entirely new Management. W. 0. LODGE, Proprietor.
SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF ST. HELIERS.
HIGH-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
Spacious Dining, Drawing, Billiard, and Writing Rooms. Lounre Hall. Good Cuisine and well-selected Wines,
Within easy reach of the Magnificent Golf Links at Grouville. INCLUSIVE TARIFF, 7a. Sd. per day*
G. E. WILLS, Proprietor.
TYTHERLEIGH'S HOTEL,
13, ESPLANADE, JERSEY.
la pleasantly situated, close to the Piers, Theatre* Public Baths, and all places
of ainoaement.
ARRANGEMENTS HADE FOR WINTER SEASON. L. TYTHBRLEIGH, PW
XD VKXTISBMEHTS .
UNRIVALLED SITUATION
IN LONDON.
EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION FOR
REGIMENTAL AND PRIYATE
DINNERS,
WEDDING RECEPTIONS,
MODERATE
TARIFF.
IMPROVEMENTS.
uated in Quiet, Open, Convenient, and Healtby Locality; 95 FEET ABOVE
*AMES HIGH WATER HARK; ciote to the best Shapt, l^wrtttyAc, Ac
Telegraphic Aooaese: "LANGHAM," LONDON.
m»
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