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Full text of "A brief history of Bavaria"

A BRIEF HISTORY 
OF BAVARIA 

BY 

GERTRUDE NORMAN 



rnia 



MUNICH 1906 
HEINRICH JAFFE 



A 

BRIEF HISTORY 

OF 

BAVARIA 

BY 
GERTRUDE NORMAN 



MUNICH 1906 
HEINRICH JAFFE 



NOTE. 

The authoress begs to acknowledge her gratitude and 
indebtedness for the invaluable help afforded her by the 
following authors and their works Dr. William Preger, 
Dr. Winter, the Rev. S. Baring Gould, Mr. Cecil Headlam 
and Miss Frances Gerard. 



DEDICATED 
BY KIND PERMISSION 

TO 

H. R. H. PRINCE GEORGE 
OF BAVARIA. 

,A humble token of esteem and admiration to 
the beautiful, ardent, progressive and artistic 

Kingdom of Bavaria 
from a sojourner in her midst." 



FOREWORD 



FOREWORD. 



There have been innumerable scholarly and 
scientific histories written on Bavaria, in German, 
and several excellent works on various phases 
of her remarkable history, and of the vivid per- 
sonalities which so invade her past, in English. 
The guide books which are to be found in all 
her more important towns and cities are very 
adequate, although of necessity much has to be 
left untold, owing to their size, and concentrated 
as they chiefly are on the one place in question. 
For instance Mr. Headlam's "Nuremberg", a truly 
significant and exquisite little work, and Miss 
Frances Gerard's "Romance of Ludwig II." (al- 
though the latter does contain several interesting 
details of the unfortunate Monarch's Kingdom, 
apart from Munich and the curious castles which 
he built). There are various other works, too, 
dealing with the stories of Bayreuth, Oberammer- 
gau, Munich &c. ; but a want has been expressed 
for a small work which would contain as it were, 
and concentrate into a small edition, outlines of 
all these various subjects and places. It is there- 
fore the aim and object of this little volume to 
give as clearly and concisely as possible the chief 



VI FOREWORD 



points and periods of interest in the rather compli- 
cated history of Bavaria, the salient features most 
interesting to visitors to her more important cities 
and towns, dwelling shortly on their churches, 
museums, galleries, monuments, most notable 
men, their lives and work, and in fact endea- 
vouring to give some impression of their atmo- 
sphere, past and present. A study of her four 
Kings will of course be given; her gift to the 
world of many great artists and art works, and 
her three chief Festival towns, Munich, Bayreuth 
and Oberammergau. There are innumerable festi- 
vals, both religious and otherwise, often in memory 
of some legend or historical event, in almost all 
of the smaller towns and mountain or lake vil- 
lages, and of course being a Roman Catholic 
country, the holidays everywhere are very fre- 
quent. The lives of the upper classes (political, 
social or military), the customs and existences of 
the peasants, the absorbing life of the university 
students, which latter plays such an important 
part in the education of the youth of Bavaria, 
and many other interesting subjects and customs 
must be omitted for lack of space. 

Bavaria is indeed pregnant with an all em- 
bracing interest ; her cities, towns, villages, moun- 
tain ranges and peaks so full of the romance of 
folk-lore, legend and the eternal tragedies of the 
past. The very atmosphere in which they exist 
is potent with an aroma of the most fascinating 
and awesome periods of the world's external and 
spiritual developement. Great tragedies indeed 



FOREWORD VII 



halo her, as the setting sun haloes the silent 
peaks, lifting her to heights of infinite grandeur 
in the annals of the strange and inscrutable ways 
of Destiny. 

Her country is so varied in its many sided 
beauties, her influence, artistically, theologically, 
musically and literary so wide spread and pro- 
gressive, that one cannot hope to give but the 
barest outline of her infinite storehouse of treasures. 

One of her most significant and noble of spirits, 
Professor von Bellinger, said of Germany (and 
the saying is especially and curiously applicable 
to that part of the Empire wherein he was born, 
lived and worked), "Germany is the centre from 
which proceed the great ideas which sway the 
world. She attracts all thought within her scope, 
shapes it and sends it forth into the Universe 
clothed with a power which is her own. Her's 
is the battlefield upon which all the great in- 
tellectual contests have been fought." 

Let us consider for a moment in our heart's 
most serious and unprejudiced crypt, what we 
do indeed owe to her, this little Kingdom of 
Bavaria. 

She is the welcome home and haven of the 
student, a place of comprehension and aspiration 
to the artist, a well of eternal knowledge to the 
most erudite scholar, a Mecca and place of glory 
to the musician. All coming here find the com- 
pletest satisfaction, whether the following of 
history be the goal, literature, painting, sculpture 
or music, or merely sought as a retreat from the 



VIII FOREWORD 



too strenuous life of our Anglo-Saxon civilization, 
to a life where one can economically find and 
enjoy all the stored up riches, from the arts and 
sciences of all the ages, and meditatively culti- 
vate one's desire for a better and higher know- 
ledge. 

It would take volumes to interpret rightly, 
fully and justly the glories of Bavaria, the heri- 
tage of her past, and the manifold attractions 
of her magnetic centre, Munich, so advanced with 
modern improvements, so fraught with mediaeval 
charm. 

One's praise must ever seem insufficient, and 
one's gratitude poor to the bounteous arms held 
out to us by a new country. There is as intense 
an element of mystery about it as great as the 
most mysterious event of one's life; before it 
one must bow. 

If this little work can be an incentive to dwell 
in Bavaria for a while, and an encouragement 
to study, from more profound sources, her beauti- 
ful and in-dwelling spirit, thus trending to a 
fuller, deeper, and wider comprehension of her 
place in the foremost ranks of the nations, we 
shall be more than repaid. 

G. N. 



CONTENTS IX 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. Page 

Prehistoric Bavaria. The days of Celts and Romans. 
The Migrations. Developement under Agilosinger, 
Carol ingian, Saxon, Saliern and Welf rule .... I 29 

CHAPTER II. 

Historical outline of the most salient events, and 
most illustrious Rulers of the Wittelsbach Dy- 
nasty 31 64 

CHAPTER III. 
Study of Bavaria's three Kings 65 122 

CHAPTER IV. 
Epics, Literature, Art, Architecture and Religion.. 123 156 

CHAPTER V. 

Bavaria's chief cities and characteristics. Munich, 
Bayreuth, Nuremberg, Oberammergau, Augsburg, 
Regensburg, Rothenburg &c 157 215 



I. 



"What is History, but a Fable agreed on" 

Napoleon. 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 



"DEALING WITH PREHISTORIC BAVA- 
RIA, THE DAYS OF CELTS AND ROMANS, 
AND IT'S DEVELOPEMENT UNDER 
AGILOSINGER, CAROLINGIAN, SAXON, 
SALIERN AND WELF RULE." 



"The curtains of yesterday drop down; the 
curtains of tomorrow roll up; but yesterday and 
tomorrow both are; pierce into the Time-Element; 
glance into the Eternal." Carlyle. 

Mystery enshrouds the beginnings of all Eu- 
ropean countries! 

But in the Southern Germanic lands perhaps, 
the silence is the most profound. For "there is 
no beginning in our memory of the Celtic race". 
One's imagination must make a vast sweep to go 
back over the peaks of time, one thousand four 
hundred years before Christ, and even farther 
still, to the prehistoric period of Bavaria. But 
we must attempt this momentary vision, for it is 
only thus that we can trace her upward fluc- 
tuations and developement through the long 
centuries. 

Slowly, slowly . . . , the great veil lifts. Painfully, 
as if with reluctance. And through the enormous 
thick weaving mists, so long impenetrable, vast 
primeval shapes evolve, take indistinct form, draw 



4 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

silently near. Forbidding, ominous, as though 
full of a terrible wrath at being awakened from 
so long a sleep. The sleep of aeons! 

We peer through the well nigh inscrutable fogs 
of antiquity, expecting, yet fearing to hear some 
sound. But the vast shadows move in slow 
silence. 

Tradition will not speak behind that veil of 
illimitable age. The merest glimpse is vouchsafed 
of mighty prehistoric forms, creeping towards cre- 
puscular caves. Gigantic antediluvian creatures, 
silent witnesses to the still greater Power, indo- 
mitably onward moving, which controlled them. 
A horror enwraps us, such as that which sud- 
denly grips the soul when looking, on some deep 
isolated night, filled with a vague comprehension 
of cosmic space, into the dark infinities of the 
heavens. 

The great curtains descend! Leaving us im- 
pregnated with awe, mystery, wonder, and with 
also a key perhaps to certain depths of vision, 
primeval sensations, primitive energies, resistless 
powers, latent in the consciousness and which in 
these days, through the purification of ages, 
evolve themselves through thought, into ac- 
complishments of art, literature, carvings in stone, 
or the guiding forces of empires and democracies. 
Again a long silence. 

The ages move sombrely by ; like distant, dark 
and dominating clouds. Another curtain, more 
ephemeral, almost invisible, rises ; revealing a less 
dense mist, a clearer horizon . . . through it we 



PREHISTORIC BAVARIA 



see more movement, as of a vast mass of beings 
beginning to bestir themselves, and "carrying with 
them presentiments of uncreated forms". Above 
on granite peaks the symbolic Norns are tossing 
more swiftly the threads of Human Destiny. 
The air vibrates with the germinating of huge 
forces in motion. A subdued, but tremendous 
hum penetrates over the distances. 

Dull impotency, mere brute force, life without 
any looking upward, begins to vanish. Brows 
heighten with a lightening comprehension, and 
the stirrings of new and strange desires. Clearer 
visions, vague, intangible, but luminous, stretch 
out towards the future. Crude ideas are expressed 
in pathetic roughness. But the steps of beauty 
on which we tread are in the first throes of for- 
mation. These beings stop in their turmoil to 
look at one another. Their eyes see deeper, 
differently, than those of their ancestors, the great 
cave men, who killed and fought for the prime- 
val woman. 

Only a throbbing tortuous music, haloed by 
spiritual comprehension, could convey this dream 
of the awakening and gradual progression of our 
prehistoric ancestors, which began so miraculously, 
slowly, but indefatigably to animate the human 
species, towards evolution, light, love and unity. 



We must now draw in our vision and concen- 
trate it on a small spot of plains, forests, moun- 
tains and lakes now called the kingdom of Ba- 



6 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

varia. Occasionally our glance must expand, for 
all nations, like individuals, are indissolubly joined 
in their destinies and evolutions, no matter how 
they may externally separate. And this small 
country is inextricably woven, both in its past 
and present with the epic history of Germany. 



The curtain rises definitely on the dispersing 
mists of the South about the year one hundred 
and thirteen B. C. It is curious to note how 
much sooner all exotic and far southern races 
emerge, both by progression in the arts, cultures 
and war into the light of history. It influences 
one to believe Schopenhauer's theory that the white 
races are merely a deviation from the original 
type, and that all people were at one time of 
dark skin, hair and eyes and that fair skin, blue 
eyes and blond hair are climatically bleached, 
and in fact an abnormality. Nevertheless it is 
from the olive hued races that all our ancient 
knowledge comes. In all things are they the old- 
est. Our religion, no matter what it is, comes 
from some dark skinned tribe, either Jew, Ma- 
hommedan or Buddhist! 

It is from the Romans that we first hear, in 
the above mentioned year, of a barbaric, ruddy 
and enormous race of men, clothed in the skins 
of wild animals, suddenly descending from the 
plains and hills, north of Italy, and terribly in- 
vading their camps. 

These strange warriors called themselves the 



THE DAYS OF CELTS AND ROMANS 7 

Cimbri and the Teutons, both being branches of 
the many tentacled Celtic family. (The former 
eventually descended into the French, Irish, Welsh 
and Scotch, the latter into the Anglo-Saxon and 
Germanic races.) This influx from the North not 
only revealed new worlds to the conquering Ro- 
mans, but must have sprung from the soil of 
Bavaria (the Celts below the Rhine), as well as 
from the Swiss mountains and more Northern 
parts. 

So it is we learn that before the Roman in- 
vasions Bavaria was inhabited by certain Celtic 
tribes, who built up small settlements, and were 
ruled by chieftains of their own. Ratisbona, for 
instance, was the Celtic name for Regensburg. 

There are traces too in Bavaria of yet another 
race, other than the Celts, who must have wand- 
ered here and settled, and who left their stamp 
in such names as Regnitz (the river on which 
Nuremberg stands), Karwendel, a mountain in the 
Bavarian highlands, and the Scharnitz Pass, point- 
ing to a Bohemian, Moravian, or Sklavonic ele- 
ment. These various origins give one the key to 
the many varying types which one finds all 
through Bavaria. For the fair skin, hair and blue 
eyes so typical of the pure German, are not so 
prevalent here. Instead, high cheek-bones, dark 
skin and hair, hazel and brown eyes, are more 
often to be met with and cannot all be due 
to Italian influences, but stretch back probably 
to that solitary, brooding and tragic race, the 
Sklavs. 



8 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

In all Bavarian history one notices a very marked 
and potent difference between them and their far 
earlier civilized southern neighbours. Namely, 
a searching for the inner meaning, a stern disci- 
pline of the senses, and curiously high sense of 
morality (for those barbaric days), stamped them, 
even then; their ancient laws and customs de- 
noting a high standard of principles and faith. 
This strikes one all the more deeply as at that 
time the unbridled licentiousness, vice, luxury, 
degeneracy, and complete laxity of all morals, 
found its most dominant expression amongst the 
Romans. Three hundred years before the Migra- 
tions, Tacitus wrote of the "lofty heroic ideals, 
and pure traditions" which he found among the 
Germans. Apart from being a warrior- like race, 
these Celts were tillers of the soil, living in rude 
huts on their farms, or in the deep woods as 
hunters, full of a wild elemental picturesqueness 
and epic poetic worth. Their warrior-like course 
they were driven to inevitably, in that the lands 
they knew of, were unable any longer to support 
their swiftly growing races, and they were forced 
to descend over the peaks and snows to find new 
lands to colonize. It was the Celts who opened 
up the salt and copper mines, now one of Bavaria's 
most lucrative sources of revenue. In these moun- 
tain excavations, centuries after, when new pas- 
sages, long sealed up, were reopened, were found 
many buried relics of one of the worlds most 
ancient tribes. Spear heads, curious spiked balls, 
necklaces, bracelets, rings (in gold, silver and 



THE DAYS OF CELTS AND ROMANS g 

iron), utensils, goblets, ornaments of every sort, 
and weapons of the crudest forms. High on the 
mountains were discovered their burial grounds. 
(And do we not in this find a mighty, beautiful 
and fearless symbol, shedding rays and premoni- 
tions of splendid poetic feeling? For these rough 
pagans, worshippers of Wotan, Donar, Hertha, 
Nothburga and Freia, symbols all of the wild, prime- 
val elements of earth, even if they saw not that it 
was perhaps a mightier, more solitary and unearthly 
Force which guided them and the elements they 
adored, at least desired at the end, to be as near the 
"peaks, stars, and great silence" as possible. An ideal 
that mundane modern Europe might with beauty 
emulate). In these solitary mountain graveyards 
were also found the skeletons, lying side by side, 
of Celtic warriors and their wives, their spears 
and shields in hand. All of the men were well over 
seven feet tall. Both women and men decorated 
with rings and ornaments. 

And so the stone age, the two bronze periods, 
the so-called Hallstatt age, concluding with the 
La Tene age, move by and past us, and we come to 
the obsessive period of the Roman invasions. In 
those days Bavaria formed a part of Noricum, Raetia 
and Vindelicia, so perhaps it will not be purposeless 
here, nor a too great scattering of impressions, 
if we go into the Roman power in the Germanic 
lands a little more universally than its more 
immediate effect upon Bavaria. The first ideal 
of a united German Empire was held by one 
Hermann (Arminius) who for so long had been 



10 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

a hostage in the Roman camps. He had absorbed 
their tactics in war, modes of government and 
civilization, and returned to his own people 
aflame, not only with the dream of imparting his 
knowledge to them, but of freeing them from the 
foreign yoke. Since the Romans first defeated 
the Celts (or Teutons and Cimbri) in 113. B. C. 
their power in the Germanic lands had steadily 
increased. Caesar, Augustus, Drusus, Tiberius, 
Aurelius, all had encroached more and more into 
and over their borders. In 102. B. C. the Romans 
ultimately conquered the Germans, and just about 
1,100 years later the Germans gathered in their 
forces under the inspiring leadership of Hermann 
and defeated the Romans in turn. This herculean 
task was accomplished in the year 9. A. D. But 
what takes only a few words to write, took years 
of labour, fighting, failure, harsh endeavor, in- 
finite endurance, deep optimism, and manifold 
crimes to establish. After this epoch-making 
event, the Romans began to retreat farther south- 
ward, keeping possession only of a certain portion 
of land between the Rhine, Danube and Main, 
which is that very portion of the Empire of which 
we are now writing. This was protected by the 
famous Devil's Wall, first constructed by the 
Emperor Probus, as a protection against the much 
to be feared, warlike Germans. Traces of this 
wall can still be seen. It followed a long and 
devious course of 200 miles, over morasses, hills, 
rivers and valleys, from Heilheim till it reached 
the Danube. It was strengthened at regular inter- 



THE DAYS OF CELTS AND ROMANS II 

vals by fortified towers. The Romans established 
all over Noricum and Raetia, forts, military 
stations, towers, bridges, and camps; cut roads 
and dug out quarries. These roads branching 
in every advantageous direction. 

Those cut by Augustus Vindelicia can still be 
followed through Kempten, Partenkirchen, Rosen- 
heim &c. It is in this part of the country that 
the most valuable Roman treasures (houses, ex- 
cavated roads, and various buildings) were dis- 
covered. They also opened up the gold and silver 
mines. Celeusum (Keilheim), Guntia (Gunzburg), 
Augusta Vindelicorum (Augsburg), Cambodunum 
(Kempten), Castra Regina (Regensburg), Castra 
Batava (Passau), Juvavum (Salzburg) &c. all are 
built on Roman foundation as it were, and their 
names evolved from Roman names. About the 
middle of the third century, the Germanic tribes 
entered into a sort of great Confederacy. The 
most important of these being the Allemanni, 
Saxons, Franks and Goths. 

And now we come upon those vast upheavals, 
as gigantic in their effect upon Europe as were 
the colossal volcanic eruptions of rock and moun- 
tain upon the face of nature; that elemental, 
awesome commotion and tumult caused by the 
sudden appearance of those Calmuc shepherds 
from the northern plains of Asia, the Huns! 
That hideous, short, square, filthy, terror-breeding 
race of eternal wanderers and avaricious fighters. 
Indifferent alike to cold, hunger and danger, 
feeding worse than the animals, and sleeping as 



12 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

they wandered, on their ponies. They swarmed 
over Europe like the dark, portentious shapes of 
some fantastic nightmare, driving by their force, 
and scattering by their brutality and repulsiveness, 
the various communities and comparatively settled 
confederacies of the German tribes. The Roman 
forces were attacked again and again by the 
desperate Celts in the south, who themselves were 
forced to move by the fierce and resistless Huns 
until their power was completely broken and they 
had to retreat into their own dominions. By their 
swift strokes, these shepherds altered the entire 
face of Germanic Europe, and set in motion the 
long centuries of the Migrations. The prosperity 
which the Romans had initiated into lower Ger- 
many by their advanced civilization, was for the 
time being completely swept away. The towns 
and villages through which the marauders, and 
desperate, unsettled tribes passed, were ransacked, 
devastated and deserted for more than a century. 
The power of the Roman foe was dispelled, but 
a period of the wildest degeneracy and lawlessness 
held sway, possessing both men and women. It 
was a time of violent reaction, of pillage, car- 
nage, endless wanderings and complete divisions 
and disunions. Nevertheless, out of this period 
of decadence, light eventually emerged, and rea- 
son swung back the violent pendulum to its normal 
beat. The Migrations took place from the 5 th ; 
to the 9 th ; centuries and whole books could be 
filled devoted entirely to that extraordinary time, 
upon whose foundations we rest, and whose vast 



THE MIGRATIONS 13 

gestures carved out the future for the sleeping 
generations to follow. "Out of such travail are 
great epics born", and from them sprang the seeds 
of the greatest of the legends and epic sagas of 
Germany. 

It was long before the scattered multitudes were 
able to gather themselves together again and 
assume any definite shape or form, but the salient 
events eventually manifested themselves. The 
gradual adoption of Christianity, the destruction 
of the Roman Empire, the sucking in of the much 
feared Huns, the beginning of the Crusades, and 
the evolving from out the almost inextricable 
and tangled web of the many contending forces, 
the individuality of Bavaria. But emerge she did, 
stencil clear, from the interwoven movements of 
Vandals, Heruli, Huns, Goths, Burgundians, Thu- 
ringians, Franks, Allemanni, Saxons, Moravians 
and Bohemians. It was the Goths, Bohemians, 
Moravians and Marcomanni (or March-men) from 
the country now inhabited by the Saxons, who 
chiefly settled in her torn up province. And last, 
but probably the most important of all results of 
the Migrations, were the first dominant strokes 
of that which we call "modern literature". 

And now our little kingdom begins to assume 
a boundary line and to take upon herself an 
individual title. The word "Bavaria", like the 
Latin Boiaria derives its origin from the Bohemian, 
Celtic and Moravian people by whom the land 
was inhabitated. The original word was Boju- 
varii, meaning, the inhabitants of the lands of 



14 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Baja ; which in all probability came directly from 
the Bohemian source, "Bojerheims" "Boheim" 
or "Bohmen". 

At the beginning of the 6 th century, the Duke 
of Bojuvarii founded the district which was named 
after him, and thus it gradually evolved into Ba- 
varia, or rather "Bayern". (It is about 500 B. C. 
that we first hear of the name Bavaria.) The 
little district had many forces to contend with 
and only succeeded for a time in holding its own, 
and electing independently its rulers ; these latter 
were chosen from the family of Agilosinger, 
which sprang from the stem of the Agilolfs. They 
governed as follows. 

GARIBALD I. 569 599. 

The powerful Prankish Kings were the most 
dangerous enemies to the independence of Ba- 
varia, and Garibald, wishing to strengthen his 
position and to be in closer connection with the 
enemies of the Franks (the Longobardians), mar- 
ried his daughter, Theodolinde, to their King, 
Autharis. 

THASSILO I. (No date is given, but in this 
reign [probably about 613] St. Gallen came from 
Ireland and founded the monastery named after 
him and shortly after, Magnus came also from 
Ireland and introduced Christianity into Kempten 
and Fiissen). 

GARIBALD II. (About the beginning of the 
7 th century.) 

THEODO I. (d. 717.) In this reign trouble be- 
gan to brew in the Agilosinger House. In 702 



THE AGILOSINGERS 15 

Theodo had divided the larger portion of his 
Duchies between his three sons, Theodobald, Theo- 
dobert, and Grimoald. After the death of Duke 
Theodo and two of his sons, Grimoald, the third 
brother (who had ruled in Freising) desired to 
prevent the son of his dead brother Theodobert, 
from reigning. This son Hugibert, went for help 
to the Prankish vice-regent Karl Martell. Through 
this alliance he defeated Grimoald, who thereby 
lost his possessions. Hugibert became Duke, but 
the short independence of Bavaria was already 
a thing of the past! 

HUGIBERT I. 725 737. (Theodobert's son.) 
ODILO I. 737748. (Hugibert's son.) 
THASSILO III. 758788 and to 814. (Son- 
in-law to the Longobardian King, Desiderius. 
Before his death the Bavarian Duchies were cap- 
tured by the great Charlemagne, and came under 
the rule of the Carolingian dynast.) 

Although all the former Dukes were Bavarian, 
after the reign of Garibald I. Bavaria had come 
so completely under the power of the Prankish 
kings that all their Dukes were elected by them. 
In all, ten Agilosingers ruled in Bavaria in suc- 
cession. 

Duke Thassilo III., who was married to the 
daughter of Desiderius the Lombard king, had 
long and rebelliously refused to acknowledge the 
authority of Charlemagne as Emperor, and had 
stirred up the Avars in Hungary to invade him, 
even before his powerful and arresting figure had 
leaped into the front ranks of historical masters 



16 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

and heroes. Before his era Germany had been 
nothing but a mass of petty disunited states, but 
after his accession, although each was indepen- 
dently ruled, he was acknowledged Emperor of 
the various kingdoms, duchies and counties. As 
Charlemagne's sceptre radiated over Bavaria 
(through the medium of two dukes, Gerold and 
Adulf) and he held his Imperial Diet at Ratisbon, 
and later was even more definitely connected by his 
son Ludwig the Pious' marriage to Jutta, a daughter 
of one of the earliest Welfs (who were later to 
rule in Bavaria) it will hardly be a digression to 
touch on his personality and reign. From the 
standpoint of a monarch he was a great and 
incomparable hero, appearing as a miracle at the 
end of his epoch, and towering aloft in majesty 
today, peak-high, above the mass of mediocrity, 
drones, and evil doers, who besmirch almost every 
page of history, appearing, with other mighty 
heroic forms, to lighten our back-ward glancing 
vision. He was the necessary outcome of his 
time, and yet like all such, ages in advance of 
that time. "A man, a personal ascendency, is the 
only great phenomena. When Nature has work 
to be done, she creates a genius to do it. Follow 
the great man, and you shall see what the world 
had at heart in these ages." 

With his broad, independent, free-thinking mind, 
Charlemagne takes his place among Germany's 
greatest pioneers. Not so much with the war- 
lords, as with the influences of culture, poetry, 
and the advancers by finer methods. With 



CHARLEMAGNE 



names such as St. Benedictine, Luther, Melanch- 
thon, Diirer, Hans Sachs, Lessing, Goethe &c. ; 
bearing near kinship to those minds to whom 
Germany owes her clear-cut thoroughness, deep 
mentality, broad progression, unique position in 
philosophy and socialism, and her great artistic 
glories. He not only spread the Christian religion, 
but encouraged the renewing of classical lite- 
rature and the preservation of the German poets. 
He sent to Italy for architects, builders, musicians 
and singers, and made a collection of all the 
German poems and folk songs he could find, but 
these were all unfortunately, nay, disastrously 
burned by his prejudiced son, Ludwig the Pious, 
who looked upon all pagan art expressions as 
dangerous and heathenish. Nevertheless, their 
virile memory remained imbedded in the hearts 
of many, and after years of hoarding and repe- 
tition, found again outward and tangible expression 
in the later epics. "The world is indeed the re- 
presentation of the sensibility and the thought of 
a few superior men, who have made it what it 
is, and in the course of time, broadened and 
adorned it. In the future they will still further 
amplify and enrich it, and the world as it today 
appears, is a magnificent gift from the few to 
the many; from the free to the slaves; from 
those who think and feel to those who must work." 
Again in Charlemagne sprang to life the lu- 
minious dream of Hermanns' of an unified nation. 
A welding together of all the territories under his 
sceptre. It had slumbered restlessly, lifting now 

Norman, Bavarian History. 3 



l8 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

and again a troubled glance in the people. But 
all great movements need the incentive of a soli- 
tary individual. The masses follow. 

The electing and crowning of Charlemagne as 
Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire as well as 
of Germany, set in train centuries of disasters. 
From this dangerous and unthinking deed sprang 
the long and fatal schism in both church and 
nation. The Pope was both temporal and spiri- 
tual ruler of the Roman Empire, but it was not 
considered fit that he should have to attend to 
external duties, so Charlemagne was chosen to 
wield that power in his stead. After this, Charle- 
magne raised the Archbishops and Bishops to the 
ranks of secular princes, giving them dominions 
over which they could rule like sovereigns, 
hoping by this he would encourage them to 
help him in his constant fights with the innume- 
rable petty princes and ambitious dukes, keep the 
unity of the country, and raise the spiritual and 
moral standard. But their riches and power soon 
turned the heads of these ecclesiastical dignitaries 
and they started to impose laws, levy taxes, raise 
armies, exert power over life and death, keeping 
curates to attend to their forgotten duties. They 
soon became the greatest, most baneful and 
vicious power in the land. Their only claim to 
a religious title was that they wore the insignia 
of spiritual princes, but in reality they were se- 
cular, clad in armour, and mail, at home in the 
fight and on horseback, the sword in one hand 
and the shepherds crook in the other, (an ironi- 



CHARLEMAGNE 19 

cal touch), and crowns on their heads, encir- 
cling a mitre. They lived in sumptuous, royal 
state, playing on the peoples prejudices and love 
of display, and thrilling their sensuous imagi- 
nations. This position they held until the power 
of the Empire built up by Charlemagne began 
to disintegrate and diminish and the long troub- 
les with Rome commenced, in which they al- 
ways took the latters part. When Archbishops, 
Bishops, Princes, Dukes and Margraves had 
so much power and independence, and were 
ruled by egotistical ambitions and not love of 
universal progression, how could a country hope 
to have any peace. By this error Charlemagne 
temporarily fractured his highest ambition. But 
his was the spring which re-started the onward 
flowing, though often dammed up, stream, which 
eventuated into the flower of German Unity. His 
also was the ardent spirit which lifted out of 
ignominy, the culture of the next 800 years. His 
Empire crumbled away, but he left behind that 
most certain of all things, a lofty ideal and a 
star-clear example. 

Although Germany was called an Empire after the 
Treaty of Vedrun in 814 (made in consequence 
of the continuous fights between the grandsons 
of Charlemagne and their father, one of whom 
after his death governed Bavaria) and was still 
ruled by an Emperor, the disintegration was so 
great, that the title was little more than a neces- 
sary form applied to a figure-head. The Emperor 
was still considered head of the state, but all the 

2* 



20 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

members moved independently. The successors of 
Charlemagne who ruled in Bavaria, bore the tit- 
les of Lord of the Marches or Margraves, but in 
the year 920, the ruling Margrave was raised 
to the rank of Duke, which continued the title of 
his successors for more than 700 years. In his 
war against Thassilo, Charlemagne had begun the 
Canal which was to connect the Main and the 
Danube, but the work was never completed, until 
Ludwig I., King of Bavaria, took it in hand and 
had the canal finished. (1825 1848.) 

And now we come to the first root of the fa- 
mous family of Wittelsbach. After Charlemagne's 
death, the German Emperors who possessed and 
ruled Bavaria were as follows. 

LUDWIG THE PIOUS. 814817 and 840. 

LUDWIG THE GERMAN. 843876. 

Then his three sons in succession. 

KARLMANN. 876880. 

LUDWIG, THE EAST FRANKEN. 880882. 

KARL THE FAT. 882887. 

ARNULF. 887889. (Nephew of Ludwig the 
German.) 

LUDWIG THE CHILD. 900911. 

It is during these last pages of the dynasty of 
the great Charlemagne that the Wittelsbachs spring 
into prominence, although under another name. 
Arnulf , king of Germany and a grandson of 
Charlemagne's, raised the soldierly and brave 
Count of Scheyern, ancestor of the Wittelsbachers, 
to the rank of Margrave of the Ostmark in Ba- 
varia. After Arnulf's death, this Count Luitpold 



THE FIRST OF THE WITTELSBACHS 21 

of Scheyern was appointed one of the guardians 
of the youthful little king, Ludwig the Child, and 
also commander in chief of the Bavarian army. 
(900.) Bavaria was at this time over-run by the 
barbaric Hungarians, having been beseiged by 
them continuously from time to time. They were 
a constant source of menace and danger. Luit- 
pold succeeded in driving them back for a time, 
and erected at the point where the rivers Lech 
and Inn meet, a fortress called Ennsburg. The 
whole country was in a dissatisfied and turbulent 
state. The crown in the incapable hands of a 
small child. 

The Hungarians again gathered in their forces 
and broke once more into Bavaria causing ter- 
rible devastations; ruining and demolishing mona- 
steries, fortresses, villages and towns. Thousands 
of her people were killed, also many of her Arch- 
bishops and counts, among them being the famous 
Count of Scheyern (in 907). After his death there 
was little relying for Bavaria on the Empire, so 
she elected Arnulf, a son of Luitpold, who ruled 
comparatively as an independent sovereign, from 
907 to 937, first under Conrad (Emperor of Ger- 
many after the death of Ludwig the Child) and 
then under Henry the Fowler of Saxony. The 
Bavarians had desired that Henry should be king, 
and did what they could to further his conquests. 
Arnulf divided among his vassals the lands de- 
vastated by the Hungarians, thus greatly streng- 
thening his position. Under the incentive of Henry 
of Saxony, he persuaded the Bavarians to sur- 



22 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

round their towns by walls, and built many for- 
tresses and castles. The people began more and 
more to prosper under his wise and beneficent 
rule and to be more firmly protected against the 
constant attacks of the barbarians. He fought 
and defeated the Hungarians in 909 and again, 
in conjunction with the Swabians, gained a great 
victory over them at Otting on the Inn (913) 
later helping Henry defeat the Bohemians. 

When Otto I. became Emperor, Arnulf was his 
Marshall. After his death his son Ebberhard reig- 
ned, but only for a year, as he angered the king 
by his too great desire for power and indepen- 
dence. Otto wished to gather his possessions into 
a more concrete form, and rule them from a cen- 
tral government, so he took the dukedom from 
Ebberhard and gave it to his uncle Bertold who 
ruled for him from 938 947. Before this Ber- 
told had been count of Karnten. The family of 
Scheyern or Luitpoldinger, was now a great and 
recognized power in the Empire and the better 
to bind himself to them and to prove their im- 
portance, Otto married his brother, Henry of 
Saxony, to Judith, a daughter of Arnulf. Like 
his brother before him, Bertold strongly opposed 
the Hungarians. He gained several victories over 
them, the most famous being on the Welf Heath 
near Traunfluss in 944. Bertold left one son 
Henry or Hezilo, but as he was too young to 
inherit his father's position, Otto I. gave the 
duchies to his brother Henry I., who imme- 
diately set in also to vanquish the obstreperous 



BAVARIA UNDER THE SAXON KINGS 23 

Hungarians. During the reign of Henry the Fowler 
they had been so severely checked that for a 
time they were kept at bay, but under Duke 
Henry, they again swarmed into Bavaria sur- 
rounding the famous old town of Augsburg. But 
Bishop Ulrich had persuaded his citizens to rebuild 
their fallen walls, and after a severe battle the 
Hungarians were defeated and their king killed. 
The Augsburg weavers earned themselves a last- 
ing fame for bravery in this battle. After this 
the Hungarians were completely driven out of 
Germany, eventually becoming Christianized and 
in the year 1000 were ruled by Stephen the 
Saint, who had married Gisela, called the Pious, 
the sister of the Bavarian Duke (grand-daughter 
of Judith of Scheyern and daughter of Henry the 
Wrangler). 

The official dukes in Bavaria under the Saxon 
kings were. 

HENRY I. (Brother of Otto the Great and 
husband of Judith of Scheyern.) 

HENRY II. (His son.) 

OTTO OF SCHWABEN. (Son of Ludolf.) 

HENRY III. or Hezilo. (Son of Bertold of 
Scheyern.) 

HENRY IV. (Later Emperor of Germany as 
Henry II.) 

HENRY V. (Brother-in-law of King Henry II. 
of Luxemburg.) 

Bertold's son, Henry III. (or Hezilo) ruled for 
two years only, as Henry the Wrangler came 
back to rule again. He died in 989. When 



24 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BA VARIA 

Otto I. ruled in Bavaria, Hezilo was given Karnten 
as a duchy. 

Bavaria was now one of the most influential, 
powerful and mighty states of the Empire. After 
the death of Hezilo, or literally for a hundred 
years from 948 1070 (up to the dynasty of the 
Welfs), the so-named official dukes were either 
the sons, brothers or nearest relations of the Em- 
perors. After the Welf ascendancy the Luitpold- 
ingers or Scheyerns lived as counts on their pro- 
perty near Pfaffenhofen, famous as soldiers and 
of great influence in the empire. In 1113 at the 
beginning of the crusades, they gave their castle 
to the Benedictines, and built themselves a new 
one which they named Wittelsbach. From then 
on they were no longer known as the Counts of 
Scheyern but as the Counts of Wittelsbach. Their 
new castle was near Aichach. After the fall of 
the House of Saxony the next ruling House of 
Bavaria was that of Saliern. 

Of course during all the above there were 
skirmishes, fights, disagreements and innumerable 
changes in the Bavarian duchies, but they were 
more petty than otherwise and so not necessary 
to annotate outside of a detailed and lengthy 
work on the subject. 

The Salierns ruled as follows. 

HENRY V. 1027 1042. (King of Germany 
as Henry III.) 

HENRY VII. of Luxemburg. 1042 1047. 

CONRAD VON ZUTPHEN. 10491053. 

HENRY VIII. (Emperor of Germany as Henry IV.) 



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[STORY OF THE FATHERLAI 


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26 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

OTTO VON NORDHEIM. 10611070. (His 
daughter married the Duke of Bavaria who was 
afterwards Welf I.) 

About 919 936 an independent, distinctively 
German kingdom was founded, and she separated 
herself entirely from France. An intense national 
movement manifested itself, and seemed to ani- 
mate all the various states and duchies. Imperial 
dignity was revived under Otto the Great and 
Henry II. This renewed national life bore a very 
marked ecclesiastical stamp, especially in Celtic 
Bavaria, and her monasteries and bishoprics were 
the chief seats of learning and culture. Once 
more she stepped forward and asserted an heredi- 
tary right and the famous line of Welf came 
into prominence as her chosen ruling Dukes. 
The Welfs were a very ancient family of South 
German counts, possessing one of the oldest of 
pedigrees, dating back in an unbroken line to 
Count Welf of Swabia in Bavaria, the father of 
Jutta, wife of Louis the Pious. During the no 
years that they ruled in Bavaria, they proved 
themselves a vivid and potent line, full of inde- 
pendence, daring and ambition. But they were 
brought to the dust by the faithlessness of 
one of their own, as was the race of Charle- 
magne. 

The Houses of Welf, Wittelsbach and Hohen- 
staufen, are so intertwined, that we will not here 
attempt to unravel them, but will insert a genea- 
logical table which will show the connection of 
the three branches. 



THE SALIERNS AND THE WELFS 2? 

The Welfs who successively ruled in Bavaria, 
were as follows. 

WELF I. 1070 1077, and again from 1097 
to HOI. 

(In 1075 he fought for King Henry IV. against 
the Saxons. In 1076 he had a disagreement with 
him and lost the Duchies. In 1078 86 he 
fought two battles, one at Melrichstadt, one at 
Pleichfeld, and in 1097 was reconciled with the 
Emperor and regained his duchies. In ion he 
went on a Crusade to Jerusalem, where he died.) 

WELF II. HOI 1120. (In this reign, Otto of 
Wittelsbach was Count of the Palatinate.) 

HENRY IX. The Black 11201126. (Married 
to the daughter of the King of Saxony.) 

HENRY THE PROUD. 11261138. (In 1127 
married to King Lothar of Saxony's daughter, 
Gertrud. Thus were Saxony and Bavaria joined.) 

LEOPOLD OF BABENBERG. 11381141. 
(The duchies were taken after several disagree- 
ments with the Emperor, from Henry the Proud. 
Saxony being given to Albrecht of Baren, and 
Bavaria to the Austrian Margrave, Leopold V. 
of Babenberg.) 

In the wars with Conrad, both Henry the Proud, 
and Duke Leopold died, and so in 1142 Henry 
the Lion received Saxony, and Bavaria went to 
the younger brother of Leopold of Babenberg, 
Henry Jasomirgott, who immediately married Henry 
the Lion's mother, the widowed Duchess Gertrud. 

Then came the impressive Hohenstaufen dynasty, 
one of the most notable in all German history. 



28 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

The emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, who wished 
to pacify the powerful and useful Welfs, returned 
the Duchies to their house, and Henry the Lion 
became the reigning Duke. But Henry's folly 
and faithlessnes swamped again the destinies of 
his House, for he repaid Barbarossa with such 
an act of treachery at Chievanna (he had been 
sent for as one of the principal vassals to accom- 
pany Frederick on his war against Italy), over- 
weening ambition so over-stepping its mark, that 
the Duchies, on Fredericks return, were taken from 
him and he was put under the ban of the Empire. 

Henry the Lion married Mathilda of England, 
and treated her with his customary unfaith- 
fulness, but when he went on his long pilgrimage 
of confession, to seek absolution from Pope 
Gregory, that terrible journey over mountains, 
snow and ice, she and one faithful knight ac- 
companied him. 

Henry had also, during his time of power, 
stirred up much strife and revolt in Germany, in 
conjunction with his uncle Welf VI. But when 
the latter fell into numerous difficulties, Henry 
refused to come to his aid, so that when he died 
after a very extravagant and unruly life, he left 
all his property to Frederick Barbarossa. This 
was one of the innumerables causes which raised 
Henry's wrath and jealousy against Frederick. 

There was a long feud stretching over 100 years 
between the Welfs and the Staufens. Henry the 
Proud refused to acknowledge Konrad of Hohen- 
staufen as Emperor of Germany, or to give up 



THE HOHENSTAUFENS 29 

Saxony, in which he was abetted by Lothar. 
This of course led to war. In the north the Welfs 
kept the upper hand, in the south the Staufens. 
The legend called "Weibtreue" which took place 
at Weinsberg, occurred at this time. Welf VI. 
with his wife and followers were beseiged by 
Conrad the Hohenstaufen in the above named 
little town. They had long and gallantly held 
out against the enemy, but when at last they 
signalled to yield, Conrad was so enraged at their 
stubborn resistance that he ordered every man in 
the town to be killed, allowing first of all the 
women to go free, each carrying with her, her 
most precious possession. When the gates of 
the town were opened a curious procession emerged 
before Conrad and his soldiers. It was headed 
by the Countess -Ida, Welf VI. 's wife (she was 
a daughter of the Count Palatinate of the Rhine), 
carrying her husband on her back. She was fol- 
lowed by all the other woman of the town, each 
carrying either her husband, father, brother, lover, 
or son on her back. The soldiers were enraged 
at the deception, and in fury wanted to kill them, 
but Conrad was so touched by the women's de- 
votion that he pardoned them all. After this 
Welf VI. was made Duke of Spolito and Margrave 
of Tuscany. 



II. 



"The unpastured sea, hungering for calm." 

Shelley. 



THE WITTELSBACHS 33 



THE WITTELSBACHS. 

In the year A. D. when the protection of the 
"Holy Grave" first sprang up as an ideal, the 
Bavarian Counts of Luitpolding or Scheyern, of 
whom we have already written, gave their an- 
cestral home to the Benedictine monks and built 
themselves a new castle which they called "Wit- 
telsbach". 

From this date on they were no longer known 
as the Counts of Scheyern, but as the Counts 
of Wittelsbach. Long before the name of Hohen- 
zollern or even Hapsburg adorn the pages of 
history, they were prominent as an influential 
and noble family of Counts, ardent and typical 
representatives of the strong handsome race of 
the Bavarians. Their name is to be found stencil- 
clear, intermixed with those of Welf, Hohenstaufen, 
Carolingian and Saxon, from the earliest times, 
and few princely houses can boast if they so will, 
a longer or more unbroken pedigree. The first 
personality of this ancient house, upon whom we 
can put the tracing finger, is Luitpold of the 
Luitpoldinger or Scheyern line, who in the year 
907 A. D. lost his life in a war against Hungary. 
His son was Elector of the Palatinate, his daughter 
married Henry of Saxony, Duke of Bavaria, and 

Norman, Bavarian History. 3 



34 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

his grandson by his daughter Judith, was Henry 
the Wrangler, King of Germany. He is the direct 
ancestor of all the various branches of the entire 
Wittelsbach family. 

After the treachery of Henry the Lion at Chia- 
vanna, Barbarossa took from him the Duchies 
and gave them to his faithful supporter Otto of 
Wittelsbach (1180). He was already Count of 
the Palatinate, and had achieved fame by his 
deliverance of the German army in the Pass of 
Chiusa di Verona. He was invested with the 
Duchies at Altenburg and his statue is to be seen 
in the Brunnen-Hof, in the courts of the palace 
at Munich. 

OTTO I. reigned as Duke for only three years. 
(1180 1183.) 

After him came the following Dukes. 

LUDWIG I. (11831231.) (In 1214 he be- 
came Count Palatinate of the Rhine.) 

The Crusades were now the ideal of almost 
every German knight, and this spirit especially 
animated the poetry-loving romantic Bavarians 
and in 1231 Ludwig went on a long sojourn 
into Egypt. During his reign the Duchies of 
Bavaria became definitely hereditary to the house 
of Wittelsbach. 

It was during the rule of the second Wittels- 
bach that the first tragedy occurred which added 
a significant gloom to their name. It is difficult 
to find out the complete truth of the story. After 
Barbarossa's death, Phillip, his youngest son, was 
elected Emperor. But the Welfs thought the in- 



OTTO THE ILLUSTRIOUS 35 

heritance belonged to the second son of Henry 
the Lion, Otto. 

In the ensuing war, Phillip seemed to gain and 
to keep the upper hand, but the Pope, Innocent 
the Second, was on the side of the Welfs as also 
was the House of Wittelsbach. Suddenly the 
situation reached a climax by the news that Phillip 
had been murdered in the Castle of Altenburg, 
the seat of the Count of Babenberg, by Count 
Otto of Wittelsbach, Count Palatinate, and a nephew 
of Otto, the first Wittelsbach Duke of Bavaria. 
He was followed and immediately killed by one 
Heinrich Celanen von Pappenheim. 

The story runs that his daughter had been 
decieved by the Emperor. In atonement, Ludwig, 
Duke of Bavaria, demolished the castle of Wittels- 
bach, erecting on the spot a church and a Gothic 
memorial pillar in 1209. 

OTTO II. The Illustrious, the son of Ludwig, 
was the first most eminent ancestor of the 
Wittelsbach's. He reigned from 1231 to 1253. He 
also became Count Palatine of the Rhine on his 
marriage with Agnes of the Palatinate. His 
daughter Elizabath married Conrad of Hohen- 
staufen, afterwards Emperor of Germany. Otto II. 
left behind him two sons. Ludwig the Severe 
and Henry XIII. They divided the Duchies 
between them. Ludwig taking upper Bavaria, 
the Palatinate, Munich and Heidelberg. (Heidel- 
berg had been one of the chief castle residence 
of the Wittelsbach's, although Otto had resided 
mostly at Trausnitz-Landshut. Regensburg had 

3* 



36 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

been the capital, but Ludwig changed the capital 
to Munich.) 

Ludwig the Severe was twice married. First 
to the hapless Maria of Brabant, whom he had 
had executed in the castle of Donauworth for 
her supposed unfaithfulness. Later he built 
the Monastery of Fiirstenfeld near Bruck in her 
memory. His second wife wasMelchthildis, daughter 
of Emperor Rudolf of Hapsburg. He left two 
sons, Rudolf and Ludwig. The latter became 
Emperor of Germany. The eldest son Rudolf 
desired at first to rule the inheritance alone, but 
was forced to take his brother in as Regent. He 
became the founder of the Palatine Line*, and 
reigned from 1293 1317. Almost immediately 
after his accession he went to war with Hungary 
endeavouring to regain his lost possessions, dying in 
Austria after a life of constant fighting in 1319. 

We must now return to Henry XIII., Otto's 
other son, He inherited Lower Bavaria and 
Landshut, and through this division of the Duchies 
came the first partition of Bavaria. Henry was 
the founder of the Lower Bavarian Line, which 
existed only till 1340, when it was again reunited 
to Upper Bavaria. After his death, Lower Ba- 
varia was inherited by his three sons. This further 
division led to innumerable quarrels and tangled 
difficulties. Otto, the eldest son, desired to retrieve 
some of his lost possessions in Hungary. He 
gained a complete victory over the Hungarians 

* See Page 55. 



LUDWIQ THE BAVARIAN 37 

and later was crowned their king. Lower Bavaria 
suffered much at this time from famine, pestilence 
and plague. The division eventually led to the ulti- 
mate disintegration of the following Lower Line. 

Henry XIII. (Brother of Ludwig the Severe 12531290.) 



Otto III. d. 1312. Ludwig III. d. 1296. Stephen I. d. 1310. 
(King of Hungary.) 



Henry XV. d. 1333. 



Henry XIV. d. 1339. Otto IV. d. 1335. 
John. d. 1340. 



After the extinction of the above Line, Lower 
Bavaria was once more joined to Upper Bavaria 
under Ludwig IV. the Bavarian. He was the 
second most illustrious ruler of the Wittelsbach dy- 
nasty, and his concentration of thought and most 
strenuous energies were all bent towards the pro- 
gression, assimilation and prosperity of his coun- 
try. His reign of forty-five years was of the 
profoundest significance. In 1311 he ordained 
that a Charter for the Nobility and towns be 
drawn up, and in 1324 he gave his son Ludwig 
the Mark of Brandenburg, the last of that Line 
having died out. In 1314 he was crowned Em- 
peror of Germany. In 1322 he went to war 
against Frederick of Austria who also laid claim 
to the Imperial crown. 

Ludwig defeated Frederick at Ampfing, Miihl- 
dorf and Gammelsdorf, taking him prisoner, and 
keeping him a captive for three years in the 
castle of Trausnitz, the birth place of Conrad, 
the last Staufen. 

After that time the feud was amicably arran- 
ged, for Ludwig was so filled with admiration 



38 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

for Frederick's gallant and noble behaviour while 
a captive, that he not only gave him his liberty 
but acknowledged his claim to the throne, agree- 
ing to share it with him. From that time on 
they were the best of friends, always together, 
and ruling with devoted love their Imperial pos- 
sessions. (Before this the Dukes of Wittelsbach 
had several disagreements with Austria, and had 
had to share a slice of their territory with them.) 
In 1343 Ludwig married Marguerite Maultasch, by 
this union joining the Tyrol to his territory. In 
1346 he married for the second time Marguerite 
of Hennegau, who by the death of her childless 
brother had inherited Hennegau, Holland, Seeland 
and Friesland. These also were added to the 
Bavarian possessions. Ludwig the Bavarian was 
buried in the old Frauenkirche. In 1437 his 
great-grandson Albrecht III. erected there a monu- 
ment to him, which is still to be seen. It reveals 
a face of penetrating power, justice, and nobility 
of purpose. The accompanying genealogical table 
will show the way of his descendants. He left be- 
hind him six sons. The inheritance gathered in 
by his marriage with Marguerite of Hennegau, 
he left to his two younger sons, William and 
Albrecht. Despite his warning, his four other 
sons divided the duchies between them. An- 
other branch of the now firmly established 
Wittelsbach House, was in possession of the 
Palatinate, but as both inheritances were so 
divided up, there was constant friction. Lud- 
wig V. the Brandenburger (eldest son of Ludwig 



LUDWIG THE BAVARIAN 39 




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King Ludwig the Ban 


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40 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

the Bavarian) had the Tyrol, Upper Bavaria and 
Brandenburg, and ruled these parts from 1347 
to 1361. His brother, Stephen the Rash, had 
Lower Bavaria and Niederland, and ruled from 
J 349 1 375> causing the second division of Ba- 
varia. His wife was Beatrice, Countess of Glongau. 
The Palatinate was being held by the descen- 
dants of Rudolf. 

During this time Bavaria was again swept by 
a terrible plague which fearfully devastated the 
aspiring little country. It carried away thousands 
of the population, and in Passau alone in one 
day 330 people died. The persecution of the Jews 
was also stirring up innumerable crimes and bru- 
talities. In 1363 Bavaria lost the Tyrol, and in 
1373 the Margraviate of Brandenburg. Ludwig V. 
had only one son, Meinhard, who died in 1363, 
thus his inheritance came back to Stephen the 
Rash, again joining Upper and Lower Bavaria; 
but he later divided Bavaria between his three 
sons, causing the third division of the Duchies. 
Stephen the III. had Ingolstadt, Frederick, Lands- 
hut, and John II., Munich. 

It would take too long to go into the constant 
fighting and innumerable details of these repeated 
divisions of Bavaria and the Palatinate. 

After the death of Ruprecht III. of the Pala- 
tinate (who had also been Emperor of Germany), 
the Palatinate was divided into two parts, the Heidel- 
berg or Kiirline, and the Zweibrucken-Simmern. 
Later came another division, the Neuburg and 
Siilzbach, and even more divisions and re-unions. 



LOWER BAVARIA 41 

Lower Bavaria was also in the hands of several 
brother Dukes. In 1433 occurred the loss of the 
Netherlands. In 1440 Albrecht, who had inherited 
Munich from 1438 1460, was offered the crown 
of Bohemia, which he refused. Then there was 
Ludwig the Rich of Landshut, 1450 1479, who 
founded the University there. Eventually Lower 
and Upper Bavaria were again joined under Al- 
brecht IV. the Wise of Munich, who founded the 
Primogeniture, or right of the eldest son of the 
reigning Duke to the Duchies of Bavaria. In 
1461 he laid the foundation for the new Frauen- 
kirche in Munich. In 1494 he erected St. Sal- 
vators, now the Greek Church, and also founded 
the Library. (Landshut was for a time separately 
ruled by the son of Ludwig the Rich, George the 
Rich, but after his death in 1503 that also was 
joined to the united Duchies.) In 1487 Albrecht 
went to war against the Emperor of Germany. 
There was also a short war over the succession 
to Landshut but Albrecht eventually won, and 
Bavaria was now ruled by his descendants until 
the extinction of his line and the ascendancy of 
the Wittelsbachs of the Palatinate. 

The ensuing reigns of William IV., Albrecht V., 
William V. and Maximilian I. (the first Elector 
of Bavaria), are filled with the turmoil of the 
Reformation, the Thirty Years War, and the ap- 
pearance of innumerable and extraordinary geni- 
uses in every branch of art. But their works we 
must leave to another chapter. William IV. be- 
came Duke of the two Bavarias, and under him 



42 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

began many internal reforms. His brother Lud- 
wig, whom he had appointed Regent in Lower 
Bavaria, endeavoured to bring about a big church 
reformation on the side of Luther. Albrecht V. 
(called the Courageous) was an eminently progres- 
sive and powerful ruler. He encouraged both the 
arts and sciences, founding the treasure-collection 
of the Reiche Kapelle, decorating the Chateau 
of Trausnitz, amongst many other notable works. 
William V. founded the St. Michael's Kirche. 

We must now go back a little. Apart from 
the constant turmoils in her very centre, Ba- 
varia's position was one of great precariousness 
and she had to be constantly on the watch to 
protect herself from the continual encroachments 
of Austria. But as battles, sieges, and bloody- 
avariciousness were the order of the day and the 
established habits of a certain class of princes, 
archbishops, and counts, it were useless and un- 
interesting to lay them out in detail. 

Toward the end of the 12 th century the Migra- 
tory travels were over, and the boundary lines 
of European nations comparatively fixed; much 
the same in fact as they are today. 

Bavaria was daily asserting a more definite, inde- 
pendent and individual position. The conflict bet- 
ween Christianity and Paganism was over for a time: 
the ,, death of the Gods" had taken place; the Gotter- 
dammerung had shed its crespuscular rays over Eu- 
rope ; the gentle miracles of Christ were sowing their 
glorious seeds in a few ardent and receptive hearts; 
in others, being used for private ends of a fierce 



INTERNAL TROUBLES 43 

ambition and egotism, or perverted in the hands 
of unprincipled princes, prelates, and foulest poli- 
tical corruption. But until a more perfect civili- 
zation could emanate, the dominion of the soul, 
art and its spiritual message fully realised, the 
"resurrection of the Gods" had to take place, in 
other ways and forms perhaps, but still had to 
be, as an "outward and visible sign of an inward 
and visible grace". The world was waiting for 
its Luther, its Leonardo, Angelo, Dante, Diirer, 
and there was much groping in dangerous dark- 
ness for Bavaria. Religion was a fanaticism, an 
anarchy, an egotistical lust. The Catholic Church 
was universally acknowledged. Social chaos may 
have been banished, but a complicated system of 
feudalism had appeared, the individual only exist- 
ing as part of a social whole, having no political 
rights, but merely being the last ring on a long 
chain of sycophantic interdependencies. The sup- 
porter of the state was as ever the working man. 
On his back he upheld lords, nobles, counts, 
bishops, princes, dukes and emperors. He paid 
the taxes, and was ground down into that dark 
cavern from whence emerged, by the terrible 
pressure, that electric force which spread in eter- 
nal, innumerable currents, Socialism! As a Chri- 
stian he had no communion with God, he saw 
Him not in "every grass-blade, every star and 
every living soul", for he could only address Him 
through the intervention of some priest, bishop 
or Pope. Thus his fears and prejudices were 
cultivated, his mental and moral growth checked, 



44 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

his spirit he know not of, for in the entire orga- 
nism, man as man did not exist. The Popes 
were the greatest arbiters of an arbitrary age. 

In 1268 occurred the first signs of the great 
schism which was to rend eventually the power 
of the church in twain, and tear up in violent 
emotions the feelings of every German state. It 
grew in force and all the deadly premonitions 
gradually reached a climax under Ludwig the 
Bavarian, who, in conjunction with all the other 
German states, declined to acknowledge the ab- 
solute infallibility of the Pope, the dominance of 
the Roman power, and the election of the Em- 
peror as due to Papal consecration. 

An inspiring impetus came over from England 
in the appearance of Wycliffe. In 1443 the three 
opposing Popes were deposed, which considerably 
weakened their power, and Martin V. was elected. 
Then a storm was raised by the individual, dar- 
ing opinions of John Huss and his followers and 
the deep indignation caused at his martyrdom. 
This was swiftly followed by the devastations 
caused by his violent and rather unprincipled 
avenger, Ziska the one-eyed man, and his law- 
less followers, who broke into Germany and laid 
waste some of the fairest parts and cities of Ba- 
varia. In 1493 1518 came the final great rent, 
the appearance of Luther, and the terrific ons- 
laught of a Reformation. "How different would 
the course of events have been if there had exi- 
sted at that time a broad national spirit, a strong 
public opinion in Germany. The great Hero was 



LUTHER 45 

there, Luther! but he was beset on all sides 
by divided classes and sects, regardless of the 
welfare of the whole, thinking only of the indi- 
vidual liberties. But the enlightened princes were 
on his side, and the gentry. The peasants too 
realised that he came to them as a saviour of 
social betterments, as a weapon against hierarchi- 
cal aggression. But he was defeated by small 
conspiracies and the root of all failures, lack of 
unity. Nevertheless, under his impetus the main 
supports of mediaeval life had crumbled away, 
and a new power arose, destined to become the 
chief instrument in a new civilization. The so- 
vereign power of the territorial princes and the 
communal independence of the cities. Both these 
forces trended to prepare the way for modern 
democracy. 

The history of the 14 th , 15 th and i6 th centuries, 
are a record of continuous and finally successful 
effort on the part of the princes to assert the 
supreme power of their office against conflicting 
interests of all classes; the clergy, and nobility 
as well as the bourgeousie." 

Bavaria had innumerable internal troubles and 
salvations of her own to work out, but she had 
always possessed more independence than any 
other German state, and as all her cities were 
free Imperial cities, they developed more swiftly 
and on broader lines and principles than the 
others. But her concentrated little kingdom felt 
the reverberating shocks which were so convul- 
sing Europe: she was at heart, like all Celtic 



46 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

races, pronouncedly Catholic. In 1530 began the 
many disunions which terminated so disasterously 
in the terrible Thirty Years War. Bavaria was 
caught up in the surging maelstrom of this fear- 
ful religious strife and swept along in the vast 
tide of furies. Catholic, Protestant, Lutheran, 
Calvinist, all were at bitter enmity in their un- 
religious egotisms, and with each step falling 
more and more away from the true meaning of 
Christ's universal message. 

Maurice of Saxony had rushed through Bava- 
ria on his way to attack Frederick V. Bavaria 
was the head now of the Catholic league, all the 
Catholic princes uniting under Maximilian of Ba- 
varia, while the Reformists were led by the Pala- 
tinates Elector, Frederick. 

The Thirty Years War is too well known to 
all students of history for one here to go into 
its seemingly everlasting turmoils. Duke Maxi- 
milian of Bavaria rendered continual and great 
service to the Emperor, having completely routed 
the troops of the Elector Frederick, the Calvinist 
King of Bohemia. Ferdinand, Emperor of Ger- 
many, rewarded him by giving him the Electo- 
rate of Bohemia and also the Upper Palatinate, 
which remains Bavarian to this day. He was 
also appointed one of the nine Electors of the 
Empire. 

The Thirty Years War which had been waiting 
in an electric tension in millions of nerves, now 
that the final signal had been given by the re- 
volts in Bohemia, burst forth in all the blaze of 



THE THIRTY YEARS WAR 47 

its cruel fury. After this came the devastations 
caused by that remarkable Bohemian individual, 
Albert von Wallenstein. He and his army of 
30 ooo men had become the dread of entire Ger- 
many, for although he had gathered together his 
army for the avowed purpose of fighting for the 
Catholics, later he and his men became mere 
adventurers and plunderers, pillaging both Catho- 
lics and Protestants alike, robbing, murdering, 
burning, laying waste to villages, castles and 
monasteries on their path of wild and unruly 
lawlessness. 

The Thirty Years War most truly exemplified 
the maxim that "a great licentiousness treads on 
the heels of every reformation". The Catholic 
league assembled at Heidelberg (for the Bavarians 
were the most ardent of all the Roman Catholic 
states), (1629) and requested the Emperor to 
make peace. Wallenstein had raised his army 
seemingly to help the Emperor, but egotistical 
glory poisoned his soul, and although he had 
been made Commander-in-chief of the German 
army, so awful were the crimes and atrocities 
committed by him and his followers, that the 
Emperor took it from him and gave it to Tilly, 
the famous Imperialist leader. The latter has be- 
come a national hero to the Bavarians, as he 
fought consistently for them and the Catholics. 
Nevertheless, the capture and destruction of Magde- 
burg by him, one of the most brutal events of 
history, seemed to turn the tide of his luck. 
Success comes so eternally from within, and he 



48 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

himself felt that by this deed of unwarranted 
cruelty he had sown the seeds of his own de- 
struction. Ever after he was shadowed by his 
crimes, and when Gustavus Adolphus, the Swe- 
dish king, swept through Germany driving out 
the Catholics, as Tilly had the Protestants, he 
was defeated by him and died at Ingolstadt of 
his wounds. Yet another awful crime took place: 
the capture of Wiirzburg and the butchering of 
all the monks. Crime succeeded crime, deeds of 
bloody vengeance, hate and wild thirst for satis- 
faction for fanatical beliefs, ruled the prejudiced 
hearts of both Catholic and Protestant alike. 
Gustavus Adolphus reaped success for a time, 
making a triumphant march through Roman 
Catholic Bavaria, entering and taking posses- 
sion of Munich. Every indignity was put upon 
the inhabitants by the Swedes, until at last the 
long suffering, down trodden peasants rose in a 
fearful wrath and fell on the Protestant army. 
There followed a series of terrible combats ; Fried- 
stadt was burned to the ground and all the in- 
habitants killed by order of the officers of Gu- 
stavus. Tilly was dead, and so the Emperor 
had again to turn and look for help to Wallen- 
stein, who had in the meantime, returned to his 
estates in Bohemia. He promised to help him 
and the country out of their increasing difficul- 
ties, on condition that the Imperial troops be 
entirely at his disposal, and many other arbitrary 
conditions. 

The Emperor was forced to assent, and thus 



WALLENSTEIN 



the Empire was entirely at the mercy of this 
one strange, powerful, arresting adventurer; this 
man with two such distinct forces at work within 
him; one of large, noble ideas, straightforward, 
fearless, and generous; the other suddenly con- 
suming, like a Jekyll, all his better nature; mean, 
treacherous, unprincipled and ignoble. He quickly 
gathered together an army, and advanced on 
Gustavus Adolphus who was then in Nuremberg 
with only 16 ooo men. Gustavus stationed him- 
self at Fiirth, a strongly fortified place outside 
Nuremberg, and Wallenstein was two miles off 
on a low wooded hill. For months they remained 
watchful, quiet, lynx-like. But at last pesti- 
lence broke out in Gustavus 1 camp. His patience 
had reached the end of its enduring tether. They 
met in a fearful battle and Gustavus was defe- 
ated and killed. After this Wallenstein became 
a terrible power. His influence, combined with 
his utter indifference to the Emperor's commands, 
were causing that monarch much uneasiness. 
Wallenstein had allowed, without any resistance, 
both Ratisbon and two other towns to be taken 
by the Duke of Weimar, which the Emperor had 
ordered him to protect. He refused to receive 
orders from the highest, so Frederick was even- 
tually forced to take from him again the com- 
mand of the army, and put him under the ban 
of the Empire. 

It was then that Wallenstein [decided to go 
over absolutely to the side of the enemy, the 
Protestants; but his treachery was discovered, and 

Norman, Bavarian History. 4 



50 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

he was murdered in 1634. Still the terrible wars 
continued their ravages in Bavaria as elsewhere 
until 1648 when they were terminated by the 
Peace of Westphalia. But Bavaria had lost some 
of her fairest possessions. Germany was merely 
the bare skeleton of an Empire : spineless, flesh- 
less, and shattered. Switzerland and Holland be- 
came independent and also all the German prin- 
ces. The supreme power was invested in the 
Reichstag, which was to sit permanently at Ratis- 
bon in Bavaria. The latter was torn and sick 
with weariness of war. Half her inhabitants were 
lost, not only by the sword, but by pestilence 
and famine. Villages had completely disappeared, 
others stood empty, unpopulated. The land was 
a tragedy to the eye, trampled, and uncultivated. 

All the trades in her heretofore glorious towns 
had failed, the streets were deserted and grass- 
grown, doors and windows battered in and broken. 

The famines had been so awful that the eat- 
ing of human creatures was not rare, and bands 
of men, in cannibal-like frenzy, wandered abroad. 
It was a time of the most profound and fearful 
horror, bestiality, and degeneration. 

In Franconia the depopulation had been so 
great that every man was forced to have two 
, wives, and neither men nor women were allowed to 
enter monastery or convent. The population of Ger- 
many had dwindled from 17 millions to 4 millions. 
The years following for Bavaria were full of both 
a decay and a growth. Her endeavour to resuscitate 
the lost greatness of her towns resulted in the 



MAXIMILIAN I. 51 

most absurd and hideous form of despotism. There 
seemed to be even less religious or political 
liberty than before. Municipal privileges were 
reduced to nil. The Elector, petty princes, and 
rulers of the entire country determined to exert 
absolute power over the religious beliefs of their 
subjects. Luther's message was distorted and 
mangled. And yet out of the midst of this 
chaos and utter desolation, modern German life 
has sprung. 

Maximilian I., marks an epoch-making period, 
despite the fearful times in which he lived, in 
the internal development of Bavaria. His great 
penetration, wisdom, energy, strength and pru- 
dence steered Bavaria perhaps a trifle more safely 
than other countries during the throes of these 
religious turmoils. He not only encouraged art, 
architecture, poetry, &c., but improved the army, 
placing it on a very different footing to what it 
had heretofore held. In 1616 he gave the com- 
mand to John Werner Tzerklas and Count Tilly, 
the latter having learned his statistics in the army 
of Duke Alexander of Parma. Tilly was a bril- 
liant soldier and General, and attained great 
prominence and fame, not all to his ennoble- 
ment, during the first part of the Thirty Years War. 

Maximilian I., was undoubtedly the most famous 
Elector of his century. Bavaria had been for 
the last ten years of his reign, the central meeting 
point for all the forces engaged in the war; French, 
Swedish, and those of the Emperor; and had in 
consequence endured untold misery, and loss. 

4* 



52 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Maximilian I., died in his seventy-first year 
at Ingolstadt where he had in the happiness 
of his youth laid the foundation of the Uni- 
versity. He was succeeded by his little son 
Ferdinand Maria; the mother, Maria Anna 
(sister of the Emperor Ferdinand III.), acting as 
Regent until his coming of age. It was the deep 
ambition of Ferdinand Maria to keep the peace 
of his country. He married Henrietta Ade- 
laide of Savoy, and later his daughter Maria Anna 
married the youngest son of Louis XIV. of 
France. Ferdinand Maria's wife brought a combi- 
nation of French and Italian atmosphere to the 
court of Munich. Their union was devoted and 
happy. The terrible fire of the Residenz in 1674 
gave her such a violent shock that her health 
was ruined, and two years later she died, to be 
followed in three years by her husband. Max 
Emanuel, their eldest son, inherited the duchies, 
and another son, Joseph Clemens, became Elector 
in Cologne. Max Emanuel was an ambitious and 
striving Elector. In 1682 he fought for the Em- 
peror Leopold against the Turks with 15000 Ba- 
varians. After the war (1685) he married the 
Emperor's daughter, who was also a niece of the 
childless King of Spain. In 1688 he made a great 
conquest over the fortress of Belgrade. An enor- 
mous number of Turkish prisoners and some ex- 
quisite booty and plunder he sent back to his 
capital. After this he was called the "Conqueror 
of Belgrade". 

Ever since the reign of Maximilian I. (1620) 



BAVARIA AND FRANCE 5J 

his successors had continued faithful bodies of 
the German body, and allies of Austria. But now 
(1701) Max Emanuel began to assist Louis XIV. 
of France by threatening and attacking Austria 
so as to prevent her co-operating with England 
and Holland. This was occasioned by the death 
of Charles II. of Spain, and the various claims 
put in for the throne, two of which were the 
Bavarian Elector and the Emperor Leopold I. his 
father-in-law. This occasioned another long war, 
retarding violently the progress of Bavaria. But 
"Kings must have slaves; kings climb to eminence 
over men's graves". The Bavarians fought with 
the Pope, and that abomination among monarchs 
Louis XIV., against the German Emperor, Hol- 
land, England, Portugal and the Electors of 
Hannover and Brandenburg. It resulted in the 
famous battle of Blenheim fought on August 2 nd 
1704 (or the 13 th ) when the French and Bavarians 
were defeated by the Duke of Marlborough. From 
this date the Elector of Bavaria and his remain- 
ing forces served for ten years the French armies, 
and his country was governed by Imperial com- 
mission, until the Peace of Utrecht, or more pro- 
perly the Peace of Baden, in 1714 which re-in- 
stated him in his dominions. 

His son Charles Albert seems to have been 
untaught by the disasters which followed in the 
wake of this union, and he renewed his con- 
nection with France, and on the death of the 
German Emperor in 1740 came forward as a 
candidate for the Imperal crown, obtaining a 



54 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

nomination through a majority of the Electors. 
He sent an envoy to Austria to say that he 
could not recognize Maria Theresa as Empress 
of Austria because he considered that the House 
of Bavaria had first claim to the inheritance. In 
1741 he marched against Austria and over-ran 
a considerable part of the country, but his triumph 
was of short duration, for the armies of Maria 
Theresa, with the aid of the Hungarians and the 
Croats (who had come enthusiastically to the aid 
of the ardent young queen) completely routed 
the French and Bavarians. They pursued the 
Elector's army into Bavaria and took possession 
of Munich. On the very day that the Austrians 
and their champions entered Munich, the Bava- 
rian Elector had been crowned Emperor of Ger- 
many (Charles Albert VII.) but he was unable 
to show himself in his Bavarian dominions. He 
died in 1745, and the Duchies of Bavaria were 
returned to his son Max Joseph, on condition 
that he would renounce all the pretentions of his 
father. All now went fairly smoothly for Bavaria 
until the death of Max Joseph in 1777, when the 
direct line of Wittelsbach died out, having reig- 
ned for 500 years, and the Pfalzbach-Simmerchen 
branch came into the, inheritance. 

Karl Theodor of this line became the successor 
to the Electorate, thus uniting once more Bavaria 
proper with the Rhine Palatinate. Karl Theodor 
was the representative of the elder branch of the 
Wittelsbachs. But now Austria suddenly laid 
claim again to the title and took military pos- 



7MZ./1 77AM 775 I/A^ OF THE WITTELSBACHS 55 





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56 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

session of the country. But Frederick II. of 
Prussia came to the aid of the Bavarians, and 
Austria was obliged to withdraw her claim, luckily 
before any more blood was shed; but Bavaria 
had to give her the frontier district which has 
the name of Innviertel, or the Quarter of the Inn. 
Karl Theodor was not a favorite with the Ba- 
varians ; they looked upon him as an alien, and 
he was not a man of enough character to win 
their esteem, nor a ruler of enough weight to 
prove important or beneficial to their country. 
He personally disliked the country, people, cus- 
toms and manners, and never really took root 
among them. He was especially unpopular after 
the cession of the Innviertel to Austria, and the 
spread of the rumour that he had intended to 
come to a curious bargain with that remarkable 
and subtle queen Maria Theresia of Austria; 
which was nothing more nor less than to trans- 
fer the descendant of the Wittelsbach inheritance 
to Sicily, and hand over to her the Bavarian 
Duchies. 

Probably the most notable thing he did was 
the laying out of the English Gardens. Before, 
it had only been a marshy, wooded region, damp 
and undrained and spreading as a desolation into 
the town. The work of laying it out artistically 
was entrusted to Count Rumford (an American 
by birth, Benjamin Thomson. He had become 
naturalized, made a Bavarian general and also 
a counsellor of state). The turning of the lonely 
marshy region into broad, sweeping meadows, 



PALA TINA TE LINE OF THE WITTELSBACHS 57 

deep groups of trees, quiet green walks, long 
misty avenues, Bocklin-like lakes and waterfalls, 
is a work done with appreciative and beautiful 
care. It was commenced in 1797, but not 
opened till 1799, and not actually completed 
until 1803. Carl Theodor also laid out the 
Konigin Strasse. 

In 1771 there was a slight war over the Ba- 
varian Succession, and in 1785 a Bond or Union 
of the Princes signed. 

For long now it had been the fashion in Ba- 
varia to regard everything French as the epitome 
of all that was right and beautiful; her habits 
the pattern, and her manners the ideal by which 
all must live. The i8 th century in Bavaria was 
one entirely of French atmosphere. It was in 
a way a natural reaction against the "dead for- 
mula" which had before existed, and also the 
parasitic attitude towards a more powerful con- 
queror. For in the wars with Maria Theresa most of 
the Bavarian towns had been continually occupied 
by the French and they were reduced often to 
poverty by this influx and the heavy levying of 
contributions. After the death of Carl Theodor 
(he having died childless), the Duchies passed to 
his brother, Max Josef, who had been acting as 
Regent in the Palatinate. The left Palatinate of 
the Rhine Carl Theodor had lost to the French. 
Max Josef had also lost his ancestral land of 
Zweibriicken to them. He came with a grateful 
heart into Bavaria, but during the first two years 
of his electorship, the French took military pos- 



58 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

session of both Munich and Landshut, and he 
was obliged to hold his court at Amberg. 

Not only that, he was forced to fly to Mann- 
heim, to the beautiful castle of Karlberg, built 
by Duke Carl. He was there surrounded by the 
Jacobites and his standard torn down. The spirit 
of revolution was rampant and howling for satis- 
faction everywhere. He came in at a stormy 
time and saw little rest during his arduous and 
difficult reign. In the great contest of the Franco- 
Prussian war Bavaria was again forced into battle 
by having to furnish a contingent as a member 
of the Empire (1793). 

During the first years of the tremendous struggle 
for liberty on the part of Germany, her terri- 
tories remained comparatively untouched, but in 
1796 Munich was again occupied by a powerful 
French army under Moreau, forced to sign a 
separate treaty with France, and withdraw her 
contingent from the German army. 

In 1799 Bavaria found that she had con- 
siderably benefited by her French alliance, for 
having placed her troops at Napoleon's disposal, 
in his war against Austria and Russia, France 
in turn, came to Bavaria's aid when the Austrians, 
enraged by this act, came swarming into Bavaria 
and attacked Munich. But they were beaten by 
the Bavarians and French and forced to retire. 
Then again, when Austria took up arms against 
France in 1805, Bavaria, Wiirttemberg, and Baden 
came forward, or were either forced by Napoleon 
to take up arms for him again. Hesse-Darm- 



BAVARIA AND NAPOLEON 59 

stadt, Baden, Wiirtemberg and Bavaria had ere 
this formerly separated themselves from the Ger- 
man Empire, and declared themselves subject to 
the French Emperor. So that the unfortunate 
Emperor Francis II. was forced to abdicate, and 
announce the dissolution of the Empire. But 
Bavaria, by her alliance with the French, con- 
tinued to gain in power and strength. 

Napoleon, in 1806, on New Years Day, made 
her Elector, Max Josef, king; giving her also very 
many important acquisitions of territory; Ans- 
bach, Bayreuth, Nuremberg, Wiirzburg, the Palati- 
nate left of the Rhine, Salzburg and other por- 
tions of the Tyrol. This led to the heroic upri- 
sing on the part of Andreas Hofer (an innkeeper), 
Speckbacker (a hunter of chamois) and Haspinger 
(a friar), the three who led the Tyrolese to make 
one of the most gallant and stirring endeavours 
in the pages of history for liberty. It is 
curious that Bavaria should have continued to 
support the French and receive favours from 
Napoleon's hand, allowing this son of the people, 
this genius of egotism, purpose, power and vi- 
tality, to hand them a crown. But then in 
those days he went in much for king-making, 
crowning both himself and his partner, Jose- 
phine, making republicans aristocrats, of his 
own family kings, queens and princes, and of 
his friends dukes, barons and knights. His dis- 
graceful and unforgetable murder of John Palm, 
the bookseller in Nuremberg, should not have 
been either forgotten or forgiven, but at this time 



60 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Bavaria was obsessed by his dominating will, and 
was merely the vassal of France. French was 
spoken and written by the court; in fact this 
European Caesar had made a vast Confederacy 
out of the German States. Bavarian men of 
letters and people of the highest social standing 
thought nothing of the Fatherland. Patriotism 
was looked upon as vulgar and in bad taste. 
Princes, nobles &c. , sought by bribery and other 
corrupt methods to gain favour and position from 
the French authorities. It was a period of the 
deepest degradation, even though Bavaria reaped 
many material benefits from it. Her excuse lay 
in the fact, that knowing the designs of Austria 
upon her, she was forced to chose some power- 
ful ally, and Napoleon had proved by his many 
victories, and the Germans by their ghastly fai- 
lures, that the former meant protection, the latter 
annihilation. If Bavaria had not taken this ini- 
tiative she would in all probability have been 
swamped by the powers around her, as Prussia 
seemed at that time fated by destiny to fail. 
The situation was very different then to what it 
is now. There was no German Verein or Bund. 
Each petty state had its own politics, and was 
virtually independent. After the crowning of 
Max Josef as King, Napoleon visited Munich. 
An enormous banquet was given in his honour, 
and Max Josef's eldest daughter was betrothed 
to Napoleon's stepson, Eugene Beauharnais, the 
Viceroy of Italy. (Beauharnais was Napoleon's 
first wife's son.) While Napoleon was in Munich, 



NAPOLEON 6l 



he showered presents wherever he went. Beauti- 
ful Gobelin tapestries, chimney pieces of Carrara 
marble, a table which is now in the Museum at 
Munich, and that remarkable gift of twenty nine 
cannon, which Austria had taken from Munich 
to Vienna long before, and which, after Auster- 
litz, Napoleon returned to Bavaria. All this 
portion of Bavaria's history does not tend much 
to awaken the admiration of the reader. 

But in this she is not unique. All nations 
have, and still have, their pages of weakness, 
political corruption and the ascendancy of medio- 
crity. Without her strong German element she 
would not be what she is today, and without the 
power and egotism of a Napoleon she would in 
all probability still be ruled by an Elector. In 
1813 Max Joseph decided to throw off the French 
yoke and join the successful Allies of his Empire. 
Napoleon's power was on the wane, and he aided 
the Germans in Napoleon's eventual defeat, march- 
ing to the Main to cut him off should he attempt 
to retreat. It was at this time that Max Joseph 
presented his people with a rather complicated con- 
stitution, making the attempt to satisfy the growing 
demands for political freedom in speech and action, 
also striving to maintain the so newly acquired 
kingly rights in autocratic fashion. Nevertheless, 
he was a most excellent king, who dearly loved 
his people, having ever their interests at heart, 
and being in turn much beloved by them. He 
was always called "Father Max". From his ac- 
cession the present modern spirit of progres- 



62 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

sion began to manifest itself. As soon as he 
could gather a little time and peace from out 
the furious harlequinade which had swept so 
ruthlessly through his dominions he set about 
making innumerable reforms and introducing 
many beneficial measures for the country, putting 
on a much firmer basis the financial system, en- 
couraging the cultivation of the land and the 
value of home products. Freedom of speech and 
improvement in learning made steady advance. 
The districts of Bavaria, consisting of four tribes 
and eight provinces, were now definitely arranged. 
The former are, Bavaria Proper, the Palatinate 
of the Rhine, Franconia and Swabia. The latter, 
consisting of the Isar Province (Upper Bavaria) 
Upper Danube (Schwaben and Neuburg), Lower 
Danube (Lower Bavaria), Regen (Upper Palatinate 
and Regensburg), Reza (Middle Franconia), Upper 
Main (Upper Franconia), Lower Main (Lower 
Franconia and Aschaffenburg), Rhine (Palatinate). 
Universities and schools of the highest standard 
sprang up in all the towns and cities, such as 
Landshut, Erlangen, Wiirzburg &c. The Art Aca- 
demy, the Hoftheater, and the Botanical Gardens 
were also built and laid out respectively under 
his auspices and in the year of his death, 1825, 
he founded the world famous Bronze Foundry 
from which came the gates for the Capitol at 
Washington. 

Max Joseph was possessed of little martial 
spirit. None of Bavaria's four kings have for 
long been animated by a desire for either 



MAX JOSEPH, KING OF BAVARIA 63 





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64 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

the military life or its glories, but they pos- 
sessed other and probably more useful, inspiring 
qualities ; namely, a deep and sincere love for art 
and its uses, the desire to beautify their country, 
control it in peace and lead it to a height of 
prosperity ; while an overweening desire for mili- 
tary ascendency, drains its country commercially, 
leading it to penury, and the most direful poverty 
for the poorer classes. 

Through the able advice of his brilliant, wise 
and prudent counsellor, Monteglas, he put into 
movement also many momentous political and 
religious reforms. He died at Nymphenburg castle, 
October 12 th 1825. His son Ludwig I. said of 
him in tender memory, "a better heart never beat 
upon a throne". 

We now come to such recent history of Ba- 
varia and to two such vivid, potent and curious 
personalities that we must reserve the subject 
for another chapter. 



III. 



"Enter with me into the 

dark zone of the human soul." 

Emilia Pardo Bazan. 



THREE KINGS OF BAVARIA 6j 



THREE KINGS OF BAVARIA. 

And now the vista opens out onto the tragic 
viscissitudes of the mysteriously fated Wittelsbach 
dynasty. The gloom and grandeur of a mighty 
doom seems to enshroud them, stealthily following 
with vindictive footsteps. And hand in hand 
with this nocturnal mist which descends on them, 
their kingdom has come more and more to the 
front ranks of European countries. Bavaria may not 
be one of the "influential powers", neither have 
successes from the standpoint of military or poli- 
tical glory added much to the splendour of her 
history. Her story has been chiefly an artistic 
one combined with a long fight for emancipation 
to enable her to follow this path of beauty. 
But behind her failure in military statistics she 
has climbed steadily to the highest peaks of lite- 
rature, art, and music. Her pages are emblazoned 
with the names of great painters, sculptors, archi- 
tects and literary men. And in this respect per- 
haps she holds out the most benificent hands to 
us of all her more prominent neighbours. Those 
who seek in her gratification of physical, com- 
mercial or external success will go away empty 
handed. Those who come to her for spiritual 

s* 



68 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

comfort and artistic inspiration will depart through 
newly revealed gates of light. 

And yet, still in her very midst, not far from 
her very heart and capital, to whose magnetic 
centre so many yearly flock, is the symbol of a 
great heritage, crushed seemingly by an irrevo- 
cable doom; an incomprehensible destiny. Even 
more tragic than "the ruins of illustrious cities", 
is the ruin and degeneracy of an ancient, noble 
house. Yet in it's very age perhaps lies the 
germ -seed of its downfall. The "atrocity of 
fate" such as impregnated with unswerving pur- 
pose the classical dramas of ancient Greece, hangs 
over her door-lintels; lifting her far above the strata 
of ordinary, mundane weaknesses and tragedies, 
and investing the house of Wittelsbach with a pro- 
found significance. The solemn lineaments of a 
world-wide meaning, perchance a lesson applicable 
to all, looks out on us through curtains of thick 
silence. And not only tragedy but impenetrable 
mystery surrounds this House of so ancient a 
lineage, which many sentimental, garrulous ton- 
gues, failing or not wishing to see or feel 
the awesome breath and purpose of God, have 
endeavoured to sink to paltry depths of romance, 
bathos, and illogical perverseness. Nevertheless it 
is a serious and gigantic sorrow ; a lonely destiny. 

The pen of an Ibsen, Tolstoi, Maeterlinck, or 
the unerring penetration of a Symons, would 
be able, if they so willed, to unravel and 
reveal the sweeping outlines of this psychological 
tragedy. 



"THE TRAGICAL IN DAILY LIFE" 69 

But do we ever learn? The pages of history 
are fraught century after century with pregnant 
lessons which we seldom raise above the mere 
folly of humanity, or distort to suit our own 
ambitions, convictions and prejudices ! History it- 
self, of course, can seldom be authentic or accurate. 
It descends through too many mediums, and we 
are all too apt to generalize. 

The more potent the message the more do we 
pervert it by the addition of innumerable details, 
devoid of certain foundation. The more violent 
the tribulation or the sin, the more do we, in 
smug satisfaction, banish it to other countries or 
distant ages. Nature, Beauty, Sin, all repeat 
themselves in each age and all countries, and 
with a purpose. Surely not a whisper that occurs, 
but is meant for all, and comes from the trailing 
Garments of God. Not a tragedy but that is, or 
should be, felt by each. Not a symbol but could 
be both individually and universally applied. But 
we live, wander and work, in a hushed secrecy 
of soul, and temperament. We are as afraid of 
ourselves as we are afraid of Beauty, until this 
self-repression has become a thing to laud and 

emulate The lessons remain untaught. We 

neither reveal, nor do we care to understand. The 

voice of God is not allowed to penetrate 

We hide its whisperings by innumerable veils 
of prejudice and convention which we call refine- 
ments, dignities and goodtaste Do we 

never see a laughing, satiric face grinning at us 
in conquest? 



70 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Many books have been written on the last 
three kings of Bavaria, both psychological, ar- 
tistic and bathotic. - - And it is difficult to extri- 
cate from the mass of tangled matter and detail 
the most salient and revealing points. The strong 
tendency to erraticism and eccentricity which 
revealed itself in different forms in all three of 
them, has so often been contradicted ; or if ack- 
nowledged laid to so many varying and different 
sources. But it is more than probable that the men- 
tal trouble of Ludwig II. came from both sides of the 
family, for as early as 1763 Frederick Christian 
of the Palatinate showed several signs of insanity. 
After the death of "Father Max" in 1825 Lud- 
wig I. became king of Bavaria. He was born at 
Strassburg in 1786 being therefore thirty seven 
years of age when he was crowned. Ludwig was 
married to Princess Theresa of the Saxon-Hilde- 
burg line. When Crown Prince he had spent 
many years in Italy, cultivating his passionate 
love for art and beauty and leading a free and 
independent life with a little gathering of earnest 
artists and students. In these years were laid the 
foundations of his excellent taste and judgment 
in architecture and painting and in the deter- 
mination to make of Munich, if so were possible, 
a German Athens. He gained a very perfect 
knowledge of the three sister arts, and while still 
very young realized the necessity in Munich for 
a collection of masterpieces of sculpture in a 
fitting building. He employed, out of his private 
means, eminent archaeologists to excavate for 



KING LUDWIG I. 7J 

him in Greece, and Herr Haller von Hallersten 
and Professor Wagner unearthed and collected 
for him many rare treasures. The former, while 
excavating in Greece, discovered in the Island 
of Aegina a wonderful marble group, from the 
Temple at Athen, which was of infinite value to 
the entire artistic world, throwing as it did al- 
most a new light on Greek art. For the recep- 
tion of these valuable possessions the Glyptothek 
was built and the title chosen by Ludwig's former 
tutor Lichtenthal. The architectural designs were 
by Professor Klenze. The work is a combination 
of pure Greek architectural beauty and the practi- 
cal and noble Roman style. It contains one of 
the most remarkable collections of original an- 
tique sculpture in Europe. The interior is magni- 
ficent and the collection arranged in historical 
order, containing specimen of Assyrian, Egyptian, 
Incunabula, Aeginetan, in fact all ages of Greek, 
Roman, Renaissance and modern sculpture. Lud- 
wig had the best advisers and was surrounded, 
in his youth, by the most cultured and artistic 
minds of his period. In the days of his early 
enthusiasms and ardent "hero-worship" Martin 
Wagner was ever his close friend, and at his 
house in Rome, Thorwaldsen, Overbeck, Wagner, 
Cornelius, Schnoor, Casanova &c. met to discuss 
all artistic subjects. 

Before he became king, Ludwig had paid two visits 
to Italy; first, when but a boy and later after 
peace was restored and the introduction of the 
German Bund promised that it should be lasting. 



72 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

In the intervening time between these two visits he 
had to serve with the Bavarian army under Na- 
poleon. Ludwig was a thorough German at heart. 
He hated Napoleon, and this enforced military 
service under his power and against his Father- 
land bred in him a deep and bitter hatred for 
the Emperor and for the French. He once said 
that "it would be the happiest and proudest day 
of my life if Strassburg, the town where I was 
born, should once more become a German town". 
He longed for re-union with Germany, and for 
the time when he could raise the standard of 
art in his country which had been so paralyzed 
by the continuous wars and political troubles. 
When Napoleon was in Munich arranging the 
marriage of his step-son, Eugene Beauharnais, 
with Ludwig's sister, the latter showed his con- 
tempt for the great Conqueror so plainly that 
Napoleon in turn took a violent dislike to him, 
and, so rumour has it, contemplated having him 
assassinated in the comfortable way Bonaparte 
had of doing. His own words "the contagion of 
crime is like the plague" fit him very well. He 
was very desirious that the Kingdom of Bavaria 
should be inherited by the children of Beauhar- 
nais, and to this end also would have been satis- 
fied with the premature death of the Crown 
Prince ; but Destiny is stronger than the strongest 
will. The future of Bavaria might have been very 
different if this colossal egotist had fulfilled his 
unscrupulous purpose. 

Ludwig came as the direct artistic awakener 



KING LUDW1G /. 73 

of his people and it would be difficult to anno- 
tate all the art treasures which sprang from his 
inspiring brain, or what Bavaria and the artistic 
world in general, owe to him in this respect. 
The Bavarians, as their history shows us, have 
always been an artistic loving, and genius breed- 
ing, race. But the many vicissitudes and crushing 
failures through which they had passed had left 
them lacking in enthusiasm and the strong powers 
to progress and to "absorb without being ab- 
sorbed". They needed the firing of an ardent, 
fearless and enthusiastic soul. Ludwig came to 
fill this need. We can imagine Nuremberg and 
Rothenburg and some of the other mediaeval towns 
without Ludwig, but not Munich. This city is 
the outward and visible form of his dreams and 
ideals. But as no external form ever can attain 
its ideal "the value of the act and the splendour 
of the dream can seldom converge toward the 
same apex". Nevertheless, he gave us the Glypto- 
thek, the Propylean (a beautiful Graeco-Doric 
Arch, which was erected to commemorate the 
connection of the House of Wittelsbach with the 
Liberation of Greece. His second son Otto had 
been elected King of Greece, but the irony of 
fate intervened and on the day of the completion 
of the arch Otto had to return to Bavaria. One 
of Ludwig's dreams had been the resuscitating 
of the glory of Greece and her freedom. But 
his son's failure shattered this hope). Opposite 
the Glyptothek he erected the Art Exhibition in 
Corinthian style; and in the Carolinen Platz the 



74 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BA VAR1A 

bronze Obelisk, in memory of the 30000 Bavarians 
who fell in the Russian campaign of 1812. In the 
first year of his reign he brought the University 
from Landshut to Munich, and made innumerable 
efforts to better the conditions in schools, con- 
vents and monasteries. The original University 
had been founded by Ludwig the Rich in Ingol- 
stadt and was moved to Landshut by Max Joseph. 
It possesses over 300 ooo volumes. When Ludwig 
was Crown Prince he had always coveted the plains 
and meadows lying north-east of the city and 
later he bought them, carrying out his plan of 
wide avenues and streets with magnificent, har- 
monious buildings. The Ludwigstrasse, which was 
commenced in 1816, with the two severe bronze 
fountains, the school for the daughters of the 
nobility, the Georgianum Seminary for Priests 
and the Blind Asylum, was his entire work. The 
magnificent Siegesthor erected to the Bavarian 
army, is a copy of the Arch of Constantine in 
Rome and with its mighty figure of Bavaria 
driving forward in inspired strength toward the 
future and into light, fittingly terminates the 
Ludwigstrasse. The Ludwigskirche (Church of 
St. Louis) and the Leopold Palace which was 
originally intended for a villa for his wife, Queen 
Theresa, were also built, the Old Pinakothek com- 
pleted and the New Pinakothek founded (the 
former for the old masters, the latter for the 
modern school). 

The Royal State Library was also built by 
Ludwig; its entrance fittingly guarded by the 



KING LUDWIQ I. 75 

meditative figures of Thucydides, Homer, Aristotle, 
and Hippocrates. The building is in imposing 
Romanesque-Florentine style, containing the Royal 
Archives of over half a million parchments, be- 
ginning with the year 777 A. D. and the records 
of Bavaria before the year 1400. 

The most ancient objects of interest it contains 
are the "Wessobriinn Gebet", the Hohenems M. S. 
of the Nibelungen, Tristan and Isolde, Parsival and 
Titurel. The Tournament book of Duke William IV. 
the Prayer book of Duke Albrecht V. (the founder 
of the original library) containing the Psalms 
written for his orchestra by Orlando de Lasso, 
and illuminated with water colors by Mielich 
(1565), and the Emperor Maximilian's prayer book 
with marginal drawings by Diirer and Cranach. 

Ludwig also built the Palace of Duke Maxi- 
milian (now the residence of Duke Karl Theodor, 
the famous oculist), the Odeon Concert Hall (the 
Court balls which he liked so much to attend 
were given here. The famous frescoes of the 
hall were painted by the elder Kaulbach). 

The equestrian statue of Elector Maximilian I. 
in the Wittelsbach Platz by Thorwaldsen (one of 
the finest pieces of monumental work in Munich) 
the Wittelsbach Palace, the Feldherrnhalle (copied 
from Oreagnas Loggia del Lanzi by Gartner), 
which symbolises the boundary line between 
Old and New Munich, the Konigsbau, the Fest- 
saalbau, the Allerheiligenkirche , (one of the 
most exquisite, artistic and consistent pieces 
of ecclesiastical art products of modern times. 



76 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

It is restful, entrancing and full of the delicacy 
of a truly mystical atmosphere. The interior 
is a copy of the Byzantine-Romanesque church 
of St. Marks in Venice.) The Basilica or Church 
of St. Boniface which is attached to the Bene- 
dictine Convent, (the most beautiful of all 
the larger churches in Munich ; the artistic deco- 
rations being unusually beautiful, especially the 
ones dealing with the life of St. Boniface and 
painted by Heinrich von Hess after the hi- 
storical information supplied by that eminent 
historian and remarkable man Dr. Ignaz Dollinger), 
the Ruhmeshalle, the great statue of Bavaria, 
Walhalla near Regensburg, (that wonderful temple 
erected to the great pioneers of Germany, from 
Hermann to Goethe), the Befreiungshalle near 
Keilheim (erected in 1842 a second national 
monument), the Gartner Platz in Giesing, with 
statues erected to his two favorite architects 
Gartner and Klenze, the Promenade Platz with 
its five statues, (the Elector Max Emanuel, the 
historian Westenrieder, Gliick the composer, who 
was born at Weidewangen in the Upper Palatinate, 
Kreitmayer the Bavarian Chancellor, and Orlando 
de Lasso the composer of the i6 th century), 
the Monopteros and Exedra in the English garden 
and the entrance to the Hofgarten, with it's frescoes 
and arcades, the former by Cornelius, Kaulbach 
and Neureuther, are all the works of Ludwig I. 
It would be impossible to name all the statues 
and pictures which he presented to Munich, or 
to speak of the immense progress which sprang 



KING LUDWIG I. 77 

up under his eager guidance. It is said that he 
spent out of his private purse over 30,000,000 marks 
on Art and 20,000,000, on scientific, religious 
and charitable institutions. Apart from Munich 
he did a great deal for the art of the country, 
renovating the Cathedrals of Bamberg and Speier, 
completing that of Regensburg, and in Kissingen 
building the Arcardenbau and Kursaal &c. 

As a personality, Ludwig is by far the most 
interesting of the three kings; an arresting, ec- 
centric, ardent and dominating character. He 
was peculiarly democratic in his ideas, which 
were considerably advanced by his keen friend- 
ships with so many artists. He paid little atten- 
tion to Court conventions, liking to go about 
with as little ostentation as possible, as a private 
gentleman. He was ever willing to lay down his 
royalty and be a man among men; a fellow 
artist. His early years had bred in him a cosmo- 
politan love of unity and humanity, which chafed 
at the apartness of a crown and all the forma- 
lities it entailed. At times he showed that curi- 
ously contradictory characteristic which appeared 
again in his son Maximilian and so dominantly 
in his grandson Ludwig II ; that sudden changea- 
bility of mind, from simple democratic ways to 
amazingly autocratic ones; becoming a stickler for 
the finest points of a ridiculous court etiquette. 
His hatred of war was very marked and only one 
of his sons was educated for a military career, 
the Prince Luitpold (the present Prince-Regent). 
He cut down the expenses of the army as soon 



78 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

as he could and once more the military reputation 
of Bavaria fell into ill repute. Ludwig is not to 
be censured for his lack of interest in the impor- 
tance of this profession, for he must have been 
surfeited by war and the humilations of his early 
years of military experience under Napoleon. He 
clearly saw that Bavaria's only hope lay in an 
artistic and scientific awakening. It was time for 
peace, and to forward these most necessary ends 
the expenses of the army had to be cut down 
and her reputation in that line forced to take 
a secondary place. It became more of a hu- 
miliation than an honor to become a soldier, and 
the feeling was so intense, that, although con- 
scription existed, the young men of the period 
did everything they could to unfit themselves 
for that unpropitious profession. 

But in the financial and ministerial depart- 
ments, Ludwig excelled. He was more than 
punctilious, rising in the dark wintry mornings 
to work by lamp-light, when everyone else was 
asleep. Not only was it his dream to make of 
Munich such an honor to Germany, that no 
traveller could say he had seen Germany if he 
had not visited her, but to institute innume- 
rable reforms for the benefit of his people, both 
in town and country. He was an ardent encou- 
rager of literature and poetry, doing considerable 
work in the latter branch himself, but it can 
hardly be said that he excelled, or attained in 
this line the high quality which so marked his 
other achievements. He left behind him four 



KING LUDWIG I. 79 

books of poetry, mostly of a patriotic order, inter- 
mingled with love sonnets, and a biographical 
work entitled "Valhallas Genossen". 

His was a personality well calculated to earn 
and keep the love of his people. But the Bava- 
rians are of a curious temperament. They love 
rashly, in an impulsive way, more like the Austrians 
than the Germans, and are easily influenced in 
individual as well as artistic and national direc- 
tions. They are dominated too by a good deal of 
southern-like jealousy and what they possess, they 
desire shall exist for them alone. They adored 
Ludwig for a number of years, the eccentricities 
of his youth appearing as charming to them. 
His absolute disregard of danger, his independence 
of thought, the free way in which he moved 
among them all, his abundant enthusiasms, were 
intensely admired. It was probably always a 
little felt that his political capacities were not 
very brilliant, but that was overlooked and if 
the quiet, plain and gentle Queen chose to shut 
her eyes to his rather numerous failings in the 
way of marital fidelity, well ! neither would they 
say anything ! The pictures of him when he first 
came to the throne show one a strikingly fine, 
sensitive, earnest, cultured, delicate and artistic 
face. But as old age crept over him and his ec- 
centricities did not wane, they assumed a some- 
what less loveable and more sinister shape to 
his people. Their leniency wavered. What had 
once seemed like individual habits, or the irre- 
sponsibility of genius, now looked more like bad 



80 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

habits; and erraticisms appeared as tendencies 
towards that weakness of will which so often 
leads to an unbalanced mind. 

The country had again been shaken by the 
permeating waves of revolution from France. 
The former revolution had influenced all men's 
minds and speech, and they were ever in wait, 
despite their many advancements, for yet another 
brand to light their flaming senses of the rights 
of man and that eternal desire which cries for 
more independence. The brand to light the wait- 
ing faggots came, as it so often does, carried 
in the pioneering yet destructive hands of a 
woman. 

The people were chafing against certain un- 
fulfilled reforms, certain broken governmental 
promises, when suddenly into their very midst, 
like a flame encircled in a whirlwind, sprang the 
alert and radiant Lola Montez. 

This period of the few years before Ludwig's 
abdication is one of the most interesting in all 
later Bavarian history, but one difficult to un- 
ravel accurately, so surrounded is it by prejudice 
and the dislike of eye witnesses and biographers. 
Some of the participants in the tumultous excite- 
ment of the time are still alive, namely the 
Prince-Regent. 

The ecclesiastical feeling was running very high; 
its power very great. Bavaria had ever been 
ardently Catholic, and the Ultramontanes were 
the dominating party, holding the reins of govern- 
ment. Into this atmosphere^of rigid Catholicism 



LOLA MONTEZ 8l 

appeared the, for the time being, still more 
dominating figure of the Spanish dancer, Lola 
Montez. 

She came to fulfill an engagement as a dancer, 
but the authorities refused to sanction her appea- 
rance, as certain rather discreditable reports had 
preceded her. But the ambitious woman refused 
to acknowledge any authority but that of the 
King, and promptly beseiged him in his palace. 
She was at first, of course, refused admittance, 
but after one or two failures, learning that at 
a certain time Ludwig was wont to take a walk 
in a portion of the Palace grounds, she so mani- 
pulated as to meet him on his stroll, and while 
passing gave him a full view of her glorious 
face, making a seemingly unconscious remark 
concerning the grandeur of expression on the 
monarch's countenance. Impressionable Ludwig of 
course enquired who she was, granted the desired 
interview, and not only allowed her to dance, but 
fell completely under the spell of the witty, 
daring, magnetic, and very lovely woman. 

Lola Montez only made two appearances at 
the Opera House as a dancer, at both of which 
the king was present. The dancer's beauty must 
have been very compelling, her magnetism irre- 
sistible, her brilliancy and fearlessness of brain 
incontestable. She was the type of woman who 
rules for the time being wherever she goes. Be- 
hind all earthly powers some such unprincipled 
yet delicate force is at work. She reminds one 
not a little of Hamilton's Mrs. Croix, with her 

Norman, Bavarian History. 6 



82 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

"exalted eyes and insatiable mouth", but unlike 
the latter remarkable woman, was unable to hold 
her own to the end. 

If Lola Montez was not sent out by some 
secret political party to upset the Ultramontanes, 
or some English Freemasons Society, to over- 
throw the public peace and government, certain 
it is that she was keenly bitten with the passion 
for politics, a love of power and a strong anti- 
pathy for the Ultramontanes; and knew that to 
accomplish her ambitious ends, she must work 
through some high positioned, but susceptible 
medium. 

After her retirement from the world as a dancer 
in Munich, she first resided in a Hotel, then she 
went to Fiirstenried, as the King's guest, and 
later she came and took up her abode in the 
little palace on the Barerstrasse which he had 
built for her. Of course she promptly attracted 
the attention of the entire town. Parties were 
formed for and against her, but for a long time 
she drove the heads of the army, the govern- 
ment, the students and a portion of the people 
in her fascinanting leading strings. Her receptions 
gathered in the most prominent and brilliant in 
the land. She founded the Corps of the Allemani, 
and through the severity of the fight afterwards, 
they always upheld her. She coquetted with the 
Ultramontanes, blinded them by her subtle machi- 
nations, and then overthrew the entire govern- 
ment. All who criticised or worked against her 
earned the enmity of the king, losing both posi- 



LOLA MONTEZ 83 

tion and royal favor. A new set of ministers 
were brought in, and after the dismissal of 
Abel and Dollinger, Lola Montez was compara- 
tively the ruler of the state. 

First of all she was given the title of Baroness 
Rosenthal, and later that of the Countess of 
Landsfeld. 

Her past, before her advent in Bavaria, is 
wrapped up in the same mist of unauthentic 
detail, and it is with no affirmation of authenti- 
city that the following is given. 

Her real name was Marie Dolores Elise Ro- 
sanna Silbert. She was born in Limerick in 
the year 1818. Her father was an Irishman 
in the English army, her mother of Spanish 
extraction, from whom later she took the name 
of Montez. 

In 1837 she married Captain Thomas James, 
who died in 1842. After his death she was evi- 
dently left very badly off and she took up danc- 
ing as a profession. From her mother she in- 
herited all her Spanish grace, witchery and talent 
for that especial art which so characterises the 
Spanish people. Some aver that she was a failure 
at Her Majesties in London where she appeared 
in 1843, but it is more than probable she was 
a success. She went to Dresden and Berlin 
where she had continued success. Then on to 
St. Petersburg where the Czar is said to have 
fallen very much in love with her. From there 
she went to Warsaw and thence to Paris. There 
scandal followed her and she is supposed to have 

6 



84 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

been the mistress of Du Javier or Dugarier (he 
was the editor of the "Presse"), who was killed 
in a duel with Beauvallon over her age. In the 
autumn of 1846 she went to Munich, promptly 
exerting her brilliant powers over the King, and 
dominating the situation for over two years. Apart 
from her beauty the Countess of Landsfeld was 
a very cultured woman. She spoke German, 
French, Italian and Spanish, fluently. The latter 
appealed much to Ludwig, it having always been 
one of his dreams to go to Spain. 

The fair Lola used to read to him from the 
Spanish Calderon and Don Quixote, in the origi- 
nal. She had in her early youth travelled much, 
having been to India and America. It was 
little to be doubted that the king should 
have been captivated by such a woman. The 
conformities of Bavaria hardly allowed that a 
woman, whatever her talents or genius, should 
take such a prominent part, or comprehensive 
interest, in politics. 

The Countess of Landsfeld knew no confor- 
mities, and politics were her passion. She was 
a born revolutionist, strongly imbued with the 
fever of democracy, and knowing her powers, did 
her utmost to influence Ludwig to carry out her 
ideas. At last her power grew so great, and her 
spirit so ambitious, that public favor began to 
turn and grow fearful. She made her most 
fatal error in demanding the Royal Salute and 
the title of "Countess". Jealousy as well as 
moral indignation, were at boiling point. All the 



LOLA MONTEZ 85 

students, except the one Corps of the Allemanni, 
rebelled against her, also the government and 
the people. All were up in arms, literally, and 
demanding that Ludwig should banish her. He 
refused. This woman with her witty tongue, her 
brilliant pen, profound knowledge and domineer- 
ing ways, combined with her unusual and rare 
beauty, held him complete captive. The revo- 
lution between the Liberals and Ultramontanes 
began. Munich was no longer safe for the Coun- 
tess, but she refused to leave. Twice when out 
driving she was forced to fly for safety. Once 
into the old Academy in the Neuhauserstrasse 
where one can still see the marks of the bullets 
and bayonets on the walls, from the infuriated 
mob (the story runs that she fled inside and hid 
behind one of the big canvases, thus escaping 
detection). At another time she had to flee into 
the church of the Theatines for protection. 

But she possessed as fearless a spirit as Ludwig 
himself and once when the mob stormed her 
house, she rushed out at the head of her stu- 
dents, the Allemanni, clad in a coat and sash 
of their colors, a sword in her hand, and braved 
the danger of being torn to pieces. She was 
badly hurt, and at last her friends had to in- 
sist that she should leave the city. After her 
fall she went to Berne, and thence to England 
where she married a young man called Heald. 
After that we cannot follow her very definitely. 
She went to Spain and thence to America, where 
she acted in two plays written by herself, entit- 



86 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

led "Lola Montez at the Court of Ludwig" and 
"The Amazons". 

In 1852 she married a journalist (whether her 
second husband was dead or divorced we have 
been unable to discover), called Hall. She had only 
been in America a year when she went touring 
in Australia (and later in America also) with her 
plays. She used to lecture, and wrote several 
books, one of which was called "The Art of 
Beauty" and also her Autobiography. She 
died in New York in 1861 at the age of forty- 
three. There have been several books and pam- 
phlets written on her dramatic carrer, but most 
of them treat the subject as a romance or are 
so prejudiced over her anti-papal views that she 
is left little character or charm. 

Lola Montez was one of those brilliant, misguided 
temperaments, full of invaluable fire, intelligence, 
penetration and power, which could have led her 
to great heights, if only the qualities of a high 
ideal, and necessary spirituality, which must have 
been inherent in her, had only been cultivated. 

After her "deposal" and banishment, the king 
did not seem to care to retrieve his position in 
the sight of his people. National love and public 
sentiment had been deeply wounded and hurt by 
the monarchs weakness and vacillations, in the 
hands of this foreign woman. He felt that he 
could not regain his old footing, and rumour had 
it that he did not wish to. 

He was sick and tired with disappointment at 
the so easily raised barriers and prejudices of 



IGNAZ DOLLINGER 8j 

the people for whom he had done so much, and 
he abdicated soon after she left the country. It 
is said that he followed her to Italy, that being 
the reason why he remained there for the next 
twenty years of his life, but it is almost certain 
that he and the Countess Landsfeld never met 
again. Ludwig had her portrait painted to hang 
with the rest of the famous beauties who ador- 
ned the gallery of his palace, but after his ab- 
dication it was taken down ; or rather when the 
present Prince-Regent came into power. It is now 
kept with its face to the wall in some disused 
lumber room and cannot be seen. 

The most prominent men of letters during 
Ludwig's reign were, Joseph Gorres the historian, 
Oken and Schubert, natural philosophers, Frede- 
rick Thirsch and Ludwig Doderlein, students of 
ancient philology (the former in Munich, the latter 
in Erlangen), Andreas Schmeller, Schlegel and 
Baader (philosophers), and the two famous theo- 
logians, Michael Sailer (Bishop of Regensburg), 
and Ignaz Dollinger, one of the most remarkable 
men of his time, and a great friend of Glad- 
stone's. He was the most erudite, gentle, benign 
and noble of men. A splended nature, encased 
in a calm, abstracted, plain but attractive exterior. 
A great stir was caused by his brave and daring 
resistance, late in life, against the innovation 
of certain papal doctrines, and although a sincere 
Catholic and the first theologian in Germany, he 
was excommunicated by the Pope for his in- 
ability to believe in his Eminence's infallibility. 



88 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Nevertheless he still remained the greatest histori- 
cal theologian of the church, his lectures were 
always crowded, and he was made President of 
the Royal Academy of Sciences in Munich. It 
was he also who exposed so relentlessly the many 
abuses and misuses of the Confessional. 

Dr. Dollinger always looked upon himself as 
an especially ugly man, but Lenbach saw 
the intense attractiveness concentrated in the 
curiously lined, long, thin, luminious, and deep 
countenance. He painted several portraits of 
him, the finest of which is to be seen in the 
Academy of Sciences. Hildebrand (the sculpture 
of the Wittelsbach Fountain in the Maximilian 
Plate), also did a bust of him. Dr. Dollinger 
died at the age of ninety-one. 

Other famous men were Klenze and Gartner 
(who so magnificently carried out the king's ideas 
for the embellishments of Munich), Ziebland, Ohl- 
muller, Schwanthaler, Wagner, Thorwaldsen and 
Rauch. The painters most prominent were Kaul- 
bach, Cornelius, Stieler, Schmid, Schrandolph, the 
brothers Hess, Rottmann and Schnoor of Carolsfeld. 
Stiglmayer and Miiller did exquisite work in bronze, 
and at the same time the famous old Bavarian art 
of glass-painting was resuscitated, by Ainmuller. 

Riickert from Schweinfurt (a poet), Jean Paul 
Richter and Platen from Ansbach were all en- 
couraged by Ludwig. He abdicated in 1848, and 
died twenty years later in Nice, at the age of 82. 
His body was brought back to Munich where his 
grandson was reigning and buried in the Basilica, 



MAXIMILIAN II. 89 

where he himself had had an exquisite sarcophagus 
placed. His wife, Queen Theresa, had died in 
Munich of cholera in 1854. A beautiful statue 
was erected to him by the people of Munich, 
who by that time had forgotten all his weak- 
nesses and failings, only remembering all he had 
done for their country. It was modelled by 
Widnmann, and the two pages, either side of the 
mounted figure, carry each a tablet on which is 
written Ludwig's favorite motto: "Just and Per- 
servering". 

Ludwig left behind him only three children; 
Luitpold (the present Prince- Regent , who was 
born in 1821). Adelgunde, who married the Duke 
Franz of Modena, (she died in 1875) an d Adel- 
bert, who married Amalien of Spain (and who 
also died in 1875), Otto, who was for a time 
King of Greece, died in 1867, a year before his 
father (he was married to Amalie of Oldenburg) 
and Maximilian, who came to the throne on his 
fathers abdication, in 1848. 

Maximilian II. was of a severe, introspective, 
melancholy temperament, an earnest scholar, and 
clever man. But his tastes ran more to scienti- 
fic, literary and philosophical subjects, than to 
the arts of sculpture and painting. He was a 
profound lover of the ancient classical authors, 
especially the writings of Marcus Aurelius, endea- 
vouring to rule both his life and his country on 
certain stoical principles. He was the simplest 
of all the three latter kings, believing in that 
"evenness of mind" so characteristic of the Ro- 



go A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

mans; in controlling every passion, cultivating 
an interior as well as an exterior repose, and in 
not showing so plainly and frankly his emotions, 
likes and dislikes, as his more irresponsible and 
erratic father. Maximilian's was a very difficult 
position to fill, coming to the throne as he did 
during his father's life time, and having almost 
immediately to endeavour to quell the insur- 
rections in Westphalia. In this he was assisted 
by Prussia. But the tribunals, in carrying out 
the punishments, were so ruthless, and unrelent- 
ing, that they were hereafter known as the 
"Bloody Assizes". 

He was of a delicate constitution, inclined to 
melancholia, loving solitude and the desolation 
of wild mountain scenery. He did not court out- 
ward show but his disposition was inclined to be 
more autocratic than his father's, and the up- 
bringing of the unfortunate Ludwig II. was ruled 
by the strictest discipline, severity and lack of 
comprehension. It was an endeavour to crush 
all too spontaneous feelings, and to quell all sen- 
sitive dislikes or attractions. Maximilian never- 
theless had also his romantic, theatrical and in- 
consistent streak, which found such a violent and 
pathetic climax in his son. For instance, we read 
of him on his hunting excursions always dres- 
sing himself entirely in a sort of "Robin-Hood" 
costume of green ; green hat, suit, stockings and 
shoes. All the suite and foresters were bound to 
wear the same costume. Later in life his pas- 
sionate love for the mountains and solitude deve- 



MAXIMILIAN II. 



loped into a kind of misanthropy and he lived more 
and more away from the city, his capital. Imme- 
diately after his succession he set about carrying 
on the innumerable reforms both for the govern- 
ment, improvement of the country, &c. ; which 
his father had so strenuously set in motion. He 
devoted most of his energies to the improvement 
of the educational system and to the further- 
ance of scientific and philosophical progress. He 
gathered into his capital, for this purpose, a 
brilliant circle of famous men, Liebig, the great 
chemist, the historians Eybel and Giesebrecht, 
Riehl, the authority on historical culture, Carriere, 
the professor of Aesthetics &c. He also laid 
out, at his own expense, the beautiful Maximilian- 
strasse, one of the noblest streets in the world. 
Now that the new bridge is completed, the view, 
up this broad and superb avenue, with its har- 
monious skyline, tree -lined promenades, fine 
statues, crowned in the distance, high on the 
hill, with the exquisitely beautiful Maximilianeum, 
so decorative and almost estatic in outline, is one 
of extraordinary loveliness and perfection. When 
this lovely building is lit by the setting sun 
one can hardly imagine in any European city, 
a more exalting or poetry-begetting scene. 

All the buildings down the Maximilianstrasse 
were erected by the king in the curiously mixed 
style of Gothic and Renaissance which he pre- 
ferred, but the effect is so satisfying and the 
street so beautiful, that one cannot complain at 
perhaps a want of perfect architectural know- 



92 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

ledge, or feeling for perfect taste. He also 
built the old National Museum, the Govern- 
ment Buildings, and founded the new Mint. 
The magnificent monument which terminates 
the "Forum" of Maximilian II., was not erec- 
ted till 1875, but it fills in the vista with a 
perfect balance of gradation. Maximilian II. 
also built the remarkable Germanische Museum 
in Nuremberg. The postal, telegraph and rail- 
way systems were much enlarged and improved 
under him, and under his auspices the first Indu- 
strial Exhibition ever held in Germany was given 
in Munich in 1854, for which purpose the Glass 
Palace was originally built. 

One day on one of his hunting expeditions, Maxi- 
milian, when still Crown-Prince, passed the ruins 
of the ancient castle of Schwangau. As one travels 
through the beautiful country of Bavaria, one sees on 
the borders of almost every lake, on almost every 
hill and mountain, or appearing like some white 
secret from the dim greenness of deep woods, the 
marbles and turrets of some ancient castle or 
chateau. But those which will most absorb 
our attention, are Linderhof, Berg, Neu-Schwan- 
stein, Herren-Chiemsee and Hohenschwangau. 
Not only are they fraught with sombre, tragic 
memories, not so far distant, but are almost 
psychological guides to the souls of their resusci- 
tators. And all are built on sites which are 
alive and throbbing with the poetical interest of 
legends, romance, and heroic days. 

After the memorable day when Maximilian 



HOHENSCHWANGAU 93 

passed the old castle of Schwangau, he determined 
if possible to elevate its lost glories, and restore 
this ancient feudal home of his ancestors. He 
purchased it about 1832, but the restorations did 
not commence until about 1842. 

It is high up in the Bavarian Alps, rising, a 
second Wartburg, from rich, mystical and purple 
shadowed forests. Around, sweep the solitary, 
steep mountains, majestic and powerful, below 
lie the clear lakes of the Alpensee and the Schwan- 
see. The ancient title comes from "Schwan" a 
swan and "Gau" (meaning district or province). 
There are Chronicles devoted alone to the history 
of this knightly castle. Below it, nestles the 
little village of Hohenschwangau. It is in truth 
the district of the Knights of the Swan, and 
from here Lohengrin went forth on his knightly 
quests, the son of Parsival. The first feudal 
owners of the castle were the Welfs or Guelphs 
who named it Schwanstein. In 1191 it came 
into possession of the Hohenstaufen Dukes of 
Swabia. In 1221 Hildebold, an amateur or gentle- 
man Minnesinger, lived here. He was a Crusader 
and Knight of the Round Table, and on one of 
his pilgrimages fought in Syria. The Chronicles 
prove him to have been a noble and luminious 
character, a poet of good verse and a friend of 
Walter von der Vogelweide. In 1567 it passed 
to the Bavarian Dukes. The name of Ludwig 
the Bavarian appears in the Chronicles and the 
widow of Conrad IV. and his little son Conradin 
(a ward of Ludwig's), lived here for some years. 



94 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

The race of Schwangau eventually died out and 
the last two of that name sold it to a wealthy 
citizen of Augsburg, including all its rights and 
titles. But they were unable to keep up its 
princely magnificence, and it was bought back 
by Albrecht, Duke of Bavaria. In the 17 th and 
1 8 th centuries it was beseiged and captured seve- 
ral times, destroyed by the Tyrolese in 1809 and 
sold in 1820 for a small sum. The castle as it 
now stands is not very large, but of great lovi- 
liness. Maximilian's tastes were comparatively 
simple, and he had the interior decorated with 
legends from German history. The architectural 
part was carried out by Quaglio, Ohlmuller and 
Ziebland; the interior frescoes and sculpture by 
Schwanthaler, Lindenschmidt and Schneider (all 
Munich artists). The castle was Maximilian's 
favorite resting place and retreat, and after his 
death his widow spent much of her time there. 
Ludwig II. was also passionately attached to it. 
Maximilian also resuscitated the Castle of Berg, 
which was purchased by the Elector Ferdinand 
Marie in the i7 th century, having been built by 
a Baron Horwarth. 

By his shrewd and economical government and 
strict attention to financial affairs, following thus 
in the footsteps of his father, he left the country 
in a prosperous condition and a large fortune to 
his two sons. There is little doubt but that Maxi- 
milian would have been a happier and healthier 
man if the arduous reigns of government had 
never fallen to his share, and he been privileged 



DEATH OF MAXIMILIAN //. 95 

to lead in the seclusion of some university home, 
the life of a scholar. But the cares of a crown 
and the many state difficulties wore continually 
on his frail constitution. 

During his reign Maximilian gathered about 
him, apart from the eminent circle of scientific 
brains, a number of poets, such as Paul Heyse, 
Emanuel Geibel, Franz Kobell (a dialect poet), 
Frederick Bodenstedt (an epic poet), and Her- 
mann Liugg. Also Hermann Max Schmid and 
Martin Greif (who wrote dramas for the Residence 
Theatre, dealing with the Welfs, Wittelsbach and 
Bavarian personalities in general. For instance 
"Henry the Lion", "Ludwig the Bavarian" and 
"Hans Sachs" are all plays of his.) 

All through his reign Maximilian had been 
constantly troubled by the Schleswig-Holstein 
difficulty. Bavaria had continually stood up for 
the independence of Holstein and the hereditary 
right of the Holstein Augustunburg House. 
For a short period Denmark had been pacified 
by Prussia, and the latter with Austria, took 
possession of the Duchies. But in 1864, while 
Maximilian was in Italy, endeavouring to nurse 
back his fast failing health, the trouble broke 
out again and he was forced to return to 
Munich. For some time his life had been so 
frail that it was despaired of, but the people 
demanded his return. Prussia and Austria had 
gone to war again with Schleswig-Holstein. 
Maximilian returned to his death. He fell des- 
parately ill and died on the io th of March 1864, 



96 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

leaving his nineteen year old son to reign in 
his stead. 

His Queen, Marie of Prussia, lived for twenty- 
five years after her husband's death. She lived to 
see four kings reign in Bavaria, her father-in-law, 
her husband, her son Ludwig, and the present 
unfortunate Otto, who never could inherit his 
rights. 

In later life she is said to have shown several 
signs of marked eccentricity; insisting always 
on going about in the elaborate State coach. 
She was a protestant Princess, but very late in 
life during the rule of her son, was converted 
a Catholic. 

It is somewhat with trepidation that one ap- 
proaches a character which has been so curiously 
idealised as Ludwig II. The peasants of Bavaria 
are naturally prone to romance ; especially when 
the object of their attention is their King and 
one who surrounds himself with mystery and 
seclusion, and whose end is haloed with such a 
terrible tragedy. Nothing awakens the sentiment 
of simple folk so much as the exclusiveness of 
a picturesque personality, placed by destiny, in 
the worldly annals, so far above them. And 
then the abrupt and crude treatment with which 
he was suddenly made virtually a prisoner in 
his own kingdom, awoke all the resentment which 
lies latent in most individuals against governmental 
power. Ludwig is a piteous, tragic and helpless 
figure. Many assert, that, if he had not been 
born to inherit a crown, he would have been one 



LUDWIG II. 97 



of the most unique and remarkable geniuses of 
modern times. For this assertion there seems 
little foundation. Ludwig never showed any indi- 
vidual creative art powers and his tastes seldom 
were on the exquisite track of pure, lofty, or 
either brilliantly suggestive or intellectual art. 
He was an impressionable, theatric-loving, and 
very Celtic character. Marred ever by a weak- 
ness of mental grip, a too self-centred egotism, 
a temperament which lacked centrality, and more 
an inclination to be absorbed into his ardent and 
heated fancies, than the power to absorb and 
then reveal them in individual fashion. His 
strange and terrible story, upon which all the 
terrific lime-light which surrounds one in his 
position was thrown, called forth innumerable 
expressions and opinions. Yet when the die is 
too far cast the self same adorers, who leap to 
hysterical emotions at the sight of a crown, can 
be the most cruel to rend when the fall conies. 
"We are (ever) betrayed by what is false within" 
and from the first years of his youth Lud wig's 
destiny was marked out for him by his inherent 
weakness. With a little more solid strength and 
advice on the part of those around him, a little 
less fear and a little more true compassion and 
interest for the soul of a brother in mortal ill- 
ness, his way might not have been so hard. 

Ludwig II. came to the throne on the death 
of his father in 1864. His grandfather, on whose 
birthday he was born, was still alive and in 
Italy. Ludwig was little over eighteen years of 

Norman, Bavarian History. ^ 



98 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

age. Before Maximilian's death he had insisted 
on his son taking a prominent part in the affairs 
of state for which the youth had little taste or 
inclination. He had an unsympathetic and severe 
education. One little calculated to strengthen his 
sensitive and selfish temperament, or to make him 
more frank or outspoken. He early evinced those 
swift and repellent antagonisms for certain people, 
or for any ugly sight, which grew a morbidity with 
him in later years. He was shut within himself and 
the result was an imagination which, having no 
artistic outlet, was thrust back upon unwhole- 
some dreams and morbid fancies. A nature 
can be exaltingly great and noble and of neces- 
sity apart, introspective and solitary. It was not 
those qualities which marked Ludwig's mental 
tendencies so early, as the combination of them 
with a furious and unruly temper which found 
vent and delight in cruel amusements. There is 
probably no human being who does not possess 
in some cryptic portion of their nature the ele- 
ments of greatness. Ludwig certainly possessed 
them. He loved the peaks and heights even 
better than did his less ardent father. But his 
lofty loves were more for externals, and he never 
seems to have brooded over the possibility of 
attaining the self same peaks within. He was 
ever filled with the "delusive dreams of a sick 
man" and "a dreamer is a madman quiescent" 
(sometimes) "as the madman is (often) a dreamer in 
action". He ever lacked personal courage and 
in any unexpected danger completely lost his 



LUDWIG II. 99 



composure. In the latter years of his reign his 
fear of assassination was pitiful. He hated to see 
any sickness or illness around him and could not 
even bring himself to go and see his wounded 
soldiers when they returned from the war of 
1871. Dollinger says that he showed marked signs 
of military genius, but if so, the talent died early 
with other of his enthusiasms, for he never led 
his soldiers to battle, although he used to wear 
a uniform and occasionally review the troops. 
Art was to him the only setting for life, and it 
was the banners, colors, costumes, music and 
other theatrical paraphernalia which characterises 
the army, which appealed to his imagination. 
The horrors of war, and the reason for an army, 
probably never crossed his mind. 

Ludwig II. was very sensitive to ridicule in 
his youth, and if any place had unpleasant as- 
sociations for him he never liked it again. Such 
as the beautiful church in Berchtesgarten, where 
he went as a boy and with which he was so 
impressed that he returned at night to see it in 
the moonlight and was so scolded for the esca- 
pade that he never liked the place again. He 
showed very early that tendency to live always 
within himself, and to indulge in waking dreams. 
Dollinger said to him one day, on finding him 
alone, buried in the depths of a big sofa, unable 
to read because of some trouble with his eyes 
"Your Highness should have something read to 
you, it would serve to pass the tedious hours". 
"Oh! they are not tedious to^rne", said the 

7* 



100 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

prince, "I think of lots of things and am quite 
happy." 

The contradictions of temperamentwhich marked 
both his father and grandfather were still 
more accentuated in Ludwig. His adoration for 
Wagner is well known, and his youthful interest 
in freedom and independence for the people. He 
evinced a keen interest in the small Republic of 
Switzerland, and when little more than a boy 
wrote a play, the subject of which was a king's 
son who conspired with the people and incited 
them to revolution, dethrones his father and de- 
clares a republic. It was a truly republican 
tragedy and showed which way his thoughts 
were trending. Yet in contradiction to all these 
democratic ideas, the two personalities to whom 
he looked for artistic inspiration were the auto- 
cratic and corrupt Ludwig XIV. and XV. His 
most consistent passion seems to have been for 
a dead woman, the beautiful, unhappy, self-in- 
dulgent Marie Antoinette. 

The heads of the government were continually 
changed under his vascillating rule, but despite 
reports to the contrary, even after his comparative 
desertion of Munich, he did personally attend to all 
the affairs of state. During the first years of his 
reign, Ludwig seemed to be filled with a kind of 
joy over his power and position, and the adulation 
which followed his every footstep, word and action. 
He was a striking figure, of a dark, sombre and 
melancholy beauty. Some have likened him to 
a "Shelley on the throne", but his nature did 



THE YOUTH OF LUDWIO II. IOI 

not seem to trend so much to the spiritual or 
abstract, as to the glory of external things, a 
passion for colour, and a certain sensuous mysti- 
cism and gloom that likens him more to the 
temperament of a Byron. He surrounded himself 
with the most refined and cultured men of his 
government, and promptly started in to carry 
out some of his long cherished views. Almost 
his first act was to send for Wagner, whom he 
had long worshipped from a distance, since a 
memorable day when he read a pamphlet of his 
in possession of his beautiful cousin Elizabeth, 
Empress of Austria (who also was an ardent 
admirer of Wagner's). Ludwig's strong attraction 
for Wagner's permeating genius, can be simply 
traced. His youth had been spent in a hero- 
worship of the knights and poets of his romantic 
country, and the legends of Lohengrin, Parsifal 
and Tannhauser had all been inwardly absorbed. 
Suddenly on the horizon of his lonely life appeared 
this man of fire, giving them new life and 
vitality through the most exquisite of mediums. 
Ludwig had long identified himself with the knight 
of the Swan, so is it any wonder that his brain, 
teeming with all the ancient folk-lore and saga, 
with which Bavaria is throbbing, should have 
been immediately drawn to the man who had 
come to that country for the very sources and 
foundations of his works. Ludwig had first heard 
Lohengrin in 1857 when the opera had met with 
such fierce opposition in Munich, but his ardent 
imagination had been captured and his allegiance 



102 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

sworn. He read all Wagner's works, and studied 
his operas, but it was more as a medium for 
the ancient legends that he admired him than 
for his music. It was the possibilities for exter- 
nal and gorgeous setting which attracted him, 
as it did in all his art phases, for we do not 
hear that he ever attended any orchestral con- 
certs, or loved music for it's own sake. His 
musical teacher, Wanner, always maintained that 
Ludwig had no ear for music. Nevertheless, 
three weeks after his succession, Wagner was 
in Munich. 

The latter at that time was steeped in every 
kind of misery. His operas not only failures, but 
scorned and ridiculed. Burdened with domestic 
troubles and disappointed with poverty, failure 
and seemingly hopeless ambitions; he was over 
fifty, and though convinced of his dominant mes- 
sage, to which some day all would listen, was 
much in need, not only of a helping hand mone- 
tarily, but of a sympathetic friendship and the 
encouragement of an ardent admirer. This all 
came suddenly and unexpectedly in the appear- 
ance of the youthful king. The story of the 
latters friendship for Wagner, of the invaluable 
help he continually held out to him, of his pro- 
ductions of his operas, are all too well known 
and have been too often discussed from every 
standpoint to again be treated of. Wagner be- 
came a naturalized Bavarian, and to this country 
and the energies of Ludwig he owed a great deal. 
This step showed unusual discernment on the 



LUDWIG II. AND WAGNER 103 

part of Ludwig when one remembers that he was 
only a lad of eighteen at the time and that all the 
world was against the initiations of this new 
reformer. It is doubtful, though, if Wagner's 
works had on him personally a very beneficial 
effect, for they so developed his morbid ego-mania- 
cal tendencies, that later he would only witness 
them in private, and had extra performances 
given for him in the opera house, or out at one 
of his palaces. Wagner became his constant 
companion. Again public jealousy was aroused, 
reaching a deadly climax when Wagner one 
night received the applause of the public from the 
King's box. It is curious that Bavaria should now 
be the country where the genius of Wagner is most 
honoured. Bayreuth is her's and the Prinz-Regen- 
ten, the two great festival houses for his operas. 
But during his friendship for Ludwig, they looked 
upon him as the Kings most baneful influence. 
Whatever political or governmental error Ludwig 
committed and which did not please the people, 
was considered due to Wagner's machinations. 

Insinuations and innumerable evil reports were 
spread. He was accused of greed, undue influence, 
ingratitude &c. ; and the banishment of the King's 
favourite was demanded. Ludwig was incensed, 
but at last the trouble grew so intense, that he 
had to accede. Wagner was asked to leave, 
but it is doubtful if Ludwig ever forgave the 
people of Munich. 

All the above, however, spread over a number 
of years. During that time, a new school of 



104 ^ BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

music was founded for the practical education 
of students in a high sense, and von Billow was 
sent for to be its director. Wagner raised the 
musical taste and judgment of the entire country, 
giving an entirely new impetus to the operatic 
outlook. 

He had touched a new borderland of psycho- 
logy and suggestive penetration. It was a pity 
the Miincheners did not realise that his advent 
in their city was epoch-making. Following him 
came Cornelius, von Billow, Liszt, Schnoor (the 
great tenor ; the finest interpreter of Tristan) and 
Semper, the conductor. It was a revealing time, 
but the eyes remained closed. That Wagner had 
any influence over the king politically, or that 
he used any influence he may have possessed, 
except for the furtherance of art, has been tho- 
roughly refuted. In after years, after his virtual 
banishment from the city, Wagner often visited 
it for the productions of his operas. After his 
departure, Ludwig started in to make the plans 
for a Festival Playhouse in Munich but was 
prevented by both government and populace and 
the idea crushed as a whim of foolish infatuation. 
The wealth which Munich thus thrust from her 
was incalculable. She would have been musically 
what Bayreuth was, if jealousy had not so killed all 
reason within her. After Wagner's departure, 
Ludwig was seldom seen, going whenever he 
could to visit his friend, and plunging into the 
wild extravagances of his castle building. His 
eccentricities grew; he changed continually his 



LUD WIG II. AND SOPHIE CHARLO TTE 105 

suite and companions, no longer seeking the 
society of cultivated men, but taking with him 
on his solitary visits to his castles and his long 
wild drives, only a quarter-master and a couple 
of grooms. He overlooked in them almost all 
etiquette; became careless and morose, hating 
to be seen or recognised. 

There are of course several tales about his 
love adventures and of his platonic admirations 
for the opera singers, but it is difficult to find 
any substantial proof of any real romance in 
Ludwig's life. In his early days as Crown-Prince 
he was supposed to have been much attracted 
to a little Russian Princess and planned building 
a castle is Graeco-Muscovite or Russo-Byzantine 
style. There is also a story about his attachment 
to a young peasant girl. The two prima-donnas 
who capitvated him (more by their art than 
anything else), were Josephine Vogel and Fraulein 
Schefsky. 

In 1867 he was engaged to Sophie Charlotte, 
daughter of Duke Maximilian of Bavaria, and 
sister to his much beloved cousin Elizabeth of 
Austria. Her mother was the daughter of Max 
Joseph I., king of Bavaria, so they were first 
cousins. The marriage was delayed on pretence 
after pretence. It was well known that women 
had little or no fascination for him, although he 
was always most courteous to them. He had 
doubtless imbibed freely Wagner's theory of celi- 
bacy and his seemingly passionless love was given 
to Marie Antoinette and his cousin Elizabeth. 



106 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

The engagement was broken off and the truth 
of the story will never be known until the world 
is able to read the letters of Ludwig, Wagner &c., 
which are tied up with other state and private 
documents. 

Amongst the many rumours was one to the 
effect, that he had heard his fiancee was in love 
with someone else and through jealousy had 
broken off the engagement. Another, that he 
delayed so long with the final preparations that 
her father asked him finally to name a day or to 
break off the engagement and that Ludwig in his 
anger, thinking he was being forced against his will, 
flew into a rage and refused to get married alto- 
gether. Another, that his growing eccentric ways 
frightened his little cousin. She afterwards mar- 
ried the Duke D'Alencon and was burned to 
death in the terrible fire in Paris in the Rue 
Jean Gonjon in 1897. 

His weariness and restlessness grew on him 
more and more; he became more gloomy and 
solitary, riding and driving wildly, not only in 
the -mountains, but in the city thoroughfares. 
He suffered from awful headaches and became 
conscious himself that his will and self-control 
were giving way. 

Before this he visited Wartburg, the castle 
where Wolfram von Eschenbach and Walter von 
der Vogelweide had sung; a romantic and deso- 
late castle in Thuringia, not far from Weimar. 
Luther lived here after his secession from the 
old faith, and it also has the romantic tradition 



LUDWIG II. J07 



of having been the place where the ancient trials 
of minstrelsy originally were held, reproduced in 
Tannhauser and Die Meistersinger. These ancient 
spots of past glory appealed to Ludwig and awak- 
ened his slumbering dreams. 

Another added disturbance was the unsympa- 
thetic feeling existing between him and his mother. 
She had been much in favor of his marriage 
with Sophie Charlotte and had never forgiven 
him for breaking off the match. Also her jea- 
lousy of Wagner was intense and she did not 
hide her pleasure at his dismissal from Munich. 
Ludwig on his part was much incensed at his 
mother's conversion to Catholicism, although he 
was a Catholic king. 

Between 1860 1864 the political horizon was 
very stormy for all of Germany. 

In 1865 Ludwig reviewed in Munich 14 ooo sol- 
diers. This was so unusual and his appearance 
so remarkable that it re-created and revived the 
waning interest in him. Monarchies have often 
to be fed by visions of royalty ; they pay for the 
royal appurtenances and want to be constantly 
viewing them. Consequently nothing trended so 
much toward making Ludwig unpopular as his 
wish to live a retired life. 

The Schleswig-Holstein affair which so troubled 
the last days of Maximilian came to the fore 
again more seriously than ever and required the 
most dexterous handling to avert an European 
war. In 1866, Ludwig was carried away by an 
enthusiasm lacking much in diplomatic tact. His 



108 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

troops allied themselves with Austria and both 
were hopelessly beaten. But Bismarck, knowing 
so well the value of the second largest German 
state, did not intend to humiliate her too much, 
so that, despite her tragic losses, she did not 
suffer as much misery as did Saxony and Austria. 
On the withdrawal of Austria from the German 
Confederation, Bavaria again changed her attitude 
and took sides with Prussia against France. After 
that a good deal of religious and political fer- 
ment began. But on Nov. 23. 1870, a treaty was 
signed between the German Confederation and 
Bavaria, acknowledging the King of Prussia as 
the head of the German Empire. At the same 
time a greater amount of independence was given 
to Bavaria than to any other of the German 
Confederacies. She was freed from domiciliary 
surveillance of the Empire and allowed to retain 
the administration of her postal and telegraph 
system, while her army was a separate organi- 
sation during peace, under the Bavarian King. 
This treaty with Prussia was epoch-making, for 
the Emperor Napoleon III. had hoped for a renewal 
of the international Bavarian policy, when he 
had declared war against Prussia, not counting 
on the united Federation of Northern Germany 
with Bavaria. 

On July i6 th 1871 the victorious army returned 
to Munich in triumph under the command of the 
Crown Prince, Frederick of Prussia. Ludwig who 
had not gone to the front, and the unfortunate 
Prince Otto, his brother, had to be sent home, 



LUD WIG II. AND FREDERICK OF PRUSSIA log 

owing to his mental trouble which had manifested 
itself very markedly. Ludwig was filled with 
mortification and despondency over the tremen- 
dous ovation given to Frederick by the people 
of his own capital. The Crown Prince had cov- 
ered himself with heroism and glory; he was 
a martial hero, a "man of Iron and War", ex- 
celling in physical courage and well equipped to 
awaken the enthusiasm of the emotional crowds. 
Poor Ludwig, who had ever shown a lack of 
courage, fled to his castle of Berg on the very 
morning of the big military banquet given in the 
conqueror's honor. He was torn with fear that 
Frederick, in the event of another war, would 
threaten the independence of Bavaria, and seize 
from him his crown. But in this direction his 
fears and jealousy of Frederick were unfounded, 
although the latter's manner was anything but 
cordial and full of an overbearing ungracious- 
ness and arrogance. By this condescension of 
manner Ludwig read that he only looked upon 
him as half a king. His ever alert sensitive- 
ness was deeply wounded, and after the first 
reviewing of his troops by the Crown Prince 
after the war, he never came into Munich to 
receive his royal visitor. Concerning this period 
Frederick wrote a diary, containing many inte- 
resting and also very personal details. It was 
published in 1881, but suppressed by the order 
of Bismarck. 

The great Franco-Prussian war of 1870 1871 did 
more to unite the disunited states of Germany and 



HO A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

to draw them together in a union at least of 
political friendship if not of national love. At 
least the great dislike between the North and the 
South externally gave way. 

All the miseries of Germany, the petty quar- 
rels, the terrible wars, the awful bloodshed and 
sieges were due, as indeed are they not ever, in 
all nations, to internal jealousies, differences of 
religious opinion, and love of abnormal individual 
power; instead of the part for the whole, and 
the knowledge of the great secret of Unity which 
must bind everything together? But Unity had 
to come. It was the people's destiny, as it must 
be the ultimate destiny of the world. And to 
this end Germany had to slowly shape herself 
from the first moment of her embryo spirit. 

On January I st 1871, William, King of Prussia, 
was saluted as Emperor of the entire German 
Empire. The present German Empire consists of 
twenty-six states, twenty-two of which are mon- 
archical, three republican, and one, an imperial 
province. 

An incident, which occurred at the time of the 
meeting of all the German princes, after the 
victory in France, when all the kingdoms of the 
German Bund had to write a proposal to lay be- 
fore the Empire that the king of Germany 
should become universal Emperor, did much to 
upset Ludwig's failing equilibrium, and fill him 
with distrust of even his nearest friends. It was 
absolutely necessary to get Ludwig's signature 
attached to this proposal, and knowing his ec- 



LUDWIG II. AT OBERAMMERGAU III 

centric and unreliable ways, innumerable wiles 
and intrigues were used, Holstein, his most trusted 
friend being corrupted to step forward and 
deceive him. It was a political necessity to have 
both Ludwig's signature and letter, for Bismarck 
looked upon him as the one influential friend 
which Germany at that time possessed; a force, 
unconscious perhaps, in the political world. 
The whole scheme, which was deep laid, was 
arranged by Bismarck. The latter nevertheless 
always maintained that in all his numerous corres- 
pondence with Ludwig, he found him clear-headed, 
just and clever. 

In 1870 Ludwig went to Oberammergau. He 
was deeply impressed by the beauty of the sacred 
performance and the devotion of the earnest 
peasants, and he presented them with the Calvary 
group, which stands, white and symbolic, above 
the little village, to prove his love and gratitude. 
It was not finished until 1875. The sculptor was 
Halbig. The inscription on it runs "To the ar- 
tistic and excellent people of Oberammergau, by 
their King Ludwig, in memory of the Passion 
Play". Since then Ludwig has been consistently 
idealised by the artist-peasants up there, and 
many of them refuse to believe that he is dead 
even now. He assumed the aspect of a god to 
their easily awakened imaginations. 

1868 is chiefly eventful for the division of the 
Church on the subject of the Pope's infallibility, 
and the excommunication of that mighty but 
gentle force, Doctor Dollinger. The King had a 



112 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

great and lasting admiration for this remarkable 
and courageous ex-tutor of his, and encouraged 
him in this important step. In 1872 during a 
severe ministerial crisis, Ludwig began to show 
even more vascillation of mind than usual. He 
was rarely seen now and seemed to fear the 
glance of every eye and to distrust the hand of 
every friend. The last occasion upon which he 
held high festival in Munich, was in 1876, and 
in 1880 when Bavaria celebrated the centenary 
of the house of Wittelsbach, he used as an excuse 
for not appearing, the toothache and headache 
from which he now so continually suffered. 

He made the same excuse when he refused to 
attend the celebration of the fifteenth centenary 
of the union of his own Palatinate with the King- 
dom of Bavaria. But the truth was that he had 
gone to keep Wagner's birthday at his country 
seat. Dissatisfaction among the city people and 
in political and governmental circles was assuming 
stern and forbidding aspects. The kings dislike 
of his fellow beings, his refusal to attend court 
functions, his growing fear of being seen, were 
coming under severe criticism and censure. His 
passion for building, for complete isolation on 
his dark midnight journeys, rumors of furious 
outbursts of rage, and extravagant autocratic 
demands were breeding an ominious atmosphere 
around him. His fantastic and strange desires 
for the most notorious tastes and luxury were 
reaching beyond the realms of leniency. After 
holding a grand parade of the troops in Munich 



LUDWIG II. AND HIS CASTLES 113 

in 1875 he was hardly ever seen, plunging 
himself more passionately than ever into his 
buildings; Linderhof, Neu-Schwanstein and the 
dream of a Bavarian Versailles on the island at 
Chiemsee, all began to assume definite form, and 
the special performances to take place in the 
Court Theatre in Munich. He ordered special 
plays to be written for himself on the subjects 
of Louis XIV. and XV., Marie Antoinette, de 
Maintenon, Du Barry, the Pompadour and other 
personalities of the periods which so obsessed 
him, by the court dramatist Carl von Hegel. The 
only personalities he now allowed near him 
were musicians and actors, but he seemed to 
prefer the theatric to musical art. Ludwig had a 
marvellous memory and could recite pages of his 
favorite authors; Racine, Schiller, Voltaire and 
Victor Hugo. When he so wished, his powers of 
conversation were remarkable, compelling and 
arresting, and one reads that he could influence 
to his own way of thinking the most biased 
politican ! 

Artists were invited to his castle weeks at a 
time and the now famous Austrian actor, Joseph 
Kainz was one of his great friends, visiting him 
often at Linderhof. Like so many temperaments 
of a self absorbed egotism and perverted nature, 
Ludwig could be both winning and exceptionally 
magnetic. There are innumerable stories of his 
kindness of heart and deeds of spontaneous genero- 
sity. And despite the draining extravagances of 
his castles, they certainly encouraged Bavarian 

Norman, Bavarian History. 8 



114 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

arts, manufactures and trade, as all the work 
that could be done in Munich was ordered from 
there. Nevertheless the kings extravagances were 
immense for Bavaria, and that, coupled with his 
now violently advancing mental tendencies which 
could no longer be hidden, brought the royal 
family, ministers and government, to the decision 
that his abdication and retention would be 
necessary, and the country be ruled by a 
Regent. 

Ludwig's last days have filled many pages, and 
caused innumerable rumors. Many of the pea- 
sants to this day do not believe that he is dead, 
wear buttons on which his picture is painted, 
and worship with romantic sentimentality the 
strange king who occasionally drove so hurriedly 
through their midst in the night-time, sometimes 
with a galaxy of outriders, in his elaborate sleigh, 
sometimes alone, except for a groom. They looked 
on him as a much abused mortal, the victim of 
political machinations. When the final verdict 
came, with the news that the government was 
to be given over into more competent hands, 
they rose in resentment and when the medical 
attendance and a court commision were despat- 
ched to Hohenschwangau to break the news of 
his enforced abdication to Ludwig, and that his 
his uncle Prince Luitpold was to reign in his 
stead, he to be kept a virtual prisoner, on the 
grounds of insanity at Berg, the peasants sur- 
rounded the castle, took the court commission 
and doctors prisoner and lay in wait in the woods 



LUDWIG II. 115 



and lanes to protect him should more violent 
measures be used. But of course both they and 
Ludwig were helpless. The peasants were quelled 
and he taken to Berg. The rest of the story is 
world's history. The wretched man immediately 
sought his death in the waters of the lake of Starn- 
berg. He was drawn back at last to "the heart of the 
mystery whence he came" and the poor, restless 
brain and unsatisfied heart were at rest. The 
later pictures of Ludwig show a marked degene- 
ration of the sombre, dark and flashing face. 
The brows and eyes in the earlier photographs 
were almost noble. The latter full of a certain 
predestined melancholy. The mouth and chin 
showing the frail inherent weakness; both being 
self-indulgent and vacillating. But in the last 
pictures taken of him, a coarse, gross, heavy, 
loose look manifested itself, a suggestion almost 
of cruel brutality. One hears that he presented 
a loathsome and almost ridiculous figure; be- 
coming fat and bloated and in his apparel careless. 
His entrances into Munich were always heralded 
by swiftly riding torch-bearers, for he always 
came at night. In a few moments the sound of 
wildly galloping horses could be heard, dashing 
down the Leopold and Ludwig strasse's like the 
wind. The breakneck speed was never slackened 
even when the carriage came to the narrow en- 
trance leading before the palace, into which the 
horses were turned with masterly dexterity. If 
one by chance caught a glimpse of his face, it 
was to see a pale, haunted countenance, with trem- 

8* 



Il6 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

bling eyelids ; the face of one endeavouring to flee 
from himself and all his terror-breeding thoughts. 
From the first he seemed conscious, "in the re- 
cesses of his soul, that an irrevocable hour was 
awaiting him, that he was crushed by a tyranni- 
cal doom, by a threatening prohibition", which 
he had not the character nor even the will, de- 
sire or principle to conquer. He was an impris- 
oned soul ; more a victim, than a son, of fate. 
And now that distance has lent the perspective 
of gentle, beautiful and charity-colored mists, 
we see in his lonely, mournful, misguided and 
exceedingly sorrowful career, the picture of an 
ardent soul "bathed in the most ruined dreams" 
and wasted energies in which a hopelessly, per- 
verted egotism can possibly lose itself. 



A chapter on Ludwig would be incomplete 
without mentioning the extraordinary castles which 
he built. Neuschwanstein, or the castle tower to 
Hohenstaufen, is probably one of the most magni- 
ficent castles in Europe, and certainly the finest 
that sprang from the brain of Ludwig II. His 
other two castles are obsessively French, and yet, 
not seemingly so much the direct outcome of the 
mood through which that nation had passed, 
as the unwholesome adoration of a man sick 
with morbid fancies. Neuschwanstein is absolu- 
tely German. The site on which it rises being 
one on which knightly families used to build 



NEUSCHWANSTEIN 



their strongholds (It is here we believe the Castle 
of Tannhauser used to stand). In dark and distant 
times it was peopled by the Schwangau race, and 
four castles are said to have adorned the summit. 
It is separated from the castle of Hohenstaufen 
by a deep valley. The marble and granite of 
which the present castle is composed comes from 
Fiissen and Passau. The interior appointments 
are entirely German; the decorations mostly re- 
lating to incidents in the lives of Lohengrin, 
Tannhauser, Walther von der Vogelweide, Hans 
Sachs, Tristan and Isolde &c . ; in fact to all the old 
legends, sagas and historical details which Lud- 
wig so loved. Linderhof, in the depths of great 
mountains and vast forests, isolated, apart und 
grand, was always a much loved spot of Maxi- 
milian's and he used often to frequent the place 
for chamoix hunting. The quaint old wooden 
building with it's galleries and rare old tiled 
stoves, the "Linder", a typical peasants home, 
was Maximilian's hunting box; but this was demo- 
lished in 1872. On this spot, backed by the high 
peaks, Ludwig built his typical, French Rococo 
Chateau. It is completely an imitation, ablaze 
with rich, gaudy colours, gobelin tapestries, in- 
laid tables, statues, gilded and in marble, gold, 
lace, ivorylustres , stoves of lapis lazuli, carrara 
marble, Meissen bric-a-brac, and magnificent 
Sevres vases. Despite it's undeniable treasures, 
it gives one a very distasteful impression of 
the frivolous tastes of Louis XIV. and XV. The 
gardens are laid out with all the ingenuity 



Il8 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

of the highest achievement of landscape garden- 
ing; fountains, cascades, arbours, stiffly cut 
shaded avenues, flights of steps with trickling 
water and statues, everywhere in profusion. The 
exterior of the little castle is very beautiful, the 
interior consistently luxurious, uncomfortable, 
fantastic and immeasurably insane. Neither Linder- 
hof nor Herrenchiemsee seem habitable, yet 
it is to the former place of extravagant richness 
that Ludwig used to fly, calling it his "retreat". 
Artists, musicians and painters being here his 
sole comrades. In the Blue Grotto (with it's 
extremely artificial blue calcium, or electric 
lights), on the small, dark, oily-looking lake, 
he used to row with his friends, in a boat 
imitated from Lohengrin's swan. At one end 
of the lake (supposed to represent a curtained 
stage one imagines), and lit by foot-lights, is a 
painting of Venus and Tannhauser. It is blatantly 
obvious, unsuggestive and shiny looking. In the 
garden stands the so-called Moorish Kiosk, the 
interior fantastically decorated in Turkish style. 
The Chapel in the grounds was also restored by 
Ludwig. Not far from Linderhof, in a deep ravine in 
the wood, is "Hunding's hut" the interior being 
a copy of the first act of Wagner's "Die Wal- 
kiire". It used to be lighted by pine torches, and 
on the walls are axes, spears and trophies of 
the chase. In front of this hut is a small lake 
and on it a small canoe hollowed out of the 
trunk of a tree. The king used often to dine 
here, afterwards retiring to the "Hermitage" 



LUDWIG II. . JJp 



which nestles under a huge rock, built of the 
bark and trunks of trees, containing only a simple 
bed, a bench and a Prie-Dieu. Farther on are 
the Marco castle and the Pavilion of St. Hubert. 
All along the roads from Linderhof to Hohen- 
schwangau are numerous buildings giving proof 
that this was Ludwig's favorite spot. On this 
road he used to drive in an enormous golden 
sleigh, "a la Louis XV." on high runners and 
drawn by six powerful white horses ; the corners 
of the sleigh were adorned with carved figures 
and the horses heads with costly plumes. Ludwig 
usually drove at night and it is little wonder that 
the superstitious peasants looked upon him, appear- 
ing suddenly in their midst and as swiftly dis- 
appearing, as a mysterious vision, magician or 
spirit 1 

The hall marks of Greek art, which so animated 
Ludwig I., are a noble simplicity and calm gran- 
deur, and it is curious, that with his professed 
love of Greek art, Ludwig II. should have revel- 
led so much in the following of the Rococo style. 
The one so austere, dwelling on perfect line with 
no unnecessary detail; the other so overloaded 
with superfluities, so vulgar and bizarre. The 
idealism of the former should have surmounted 
for good and all, the gaudy artificiality of the 
suggestively sensual French school. Bavaria had 
of course gone through a period of ridiculous 
subservience to everything French and it reached 
its height in this unwholesome sycophancy of 
Ludwig's. He seems to have been more truly 



120 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

than aught else, a visible, tangible exemplification 
of the inner heart of the people of the Rococo 
period. All decadence reaches its climax in some 
outward form, some completing degenerate type. 
The Rococo is fundamentally and incontrovertibly 
corrupt, breeding such types as Louis XIV. and 
Louis XV. and influencing such unhappy mediums 
as Ludwig II. 

The present King of Bavaria, Otto, Ludwig's 
brother, is still alive, kept in secluded watch- 
fulness in the castle of Fiirstenried. He was 
born in Munich in 1848, but has never been 
able to rule his kingdom, having much earlier 
revealed such distinct mental trouble that after 
his return from the Franco -Prussian war he 
was almost immediately forced to be kept in 
retreat. His madness had a painful effect on 
Ludwig, who had a deep affection for his brother. 
Their mother, Queen Marie Fredericka Auguste 
Hedwig, a royal Princess of the House of Prussia, 
resided mostly in Munich in the winter and in 
the summer at Elbigen-Alp near Hohenschwangau. 
She died in 1889. 

Since the death of Ludwig, Bavaria has had 
a time of peace and continued prosperity. The 
Prince Regent, Luitpold Carl Joseph Wilhelm 
Ludwig, was born at Wiirzburg in 1821 and 
married in 1844 at Florence, Augusta Josepha, 
an Imperial Princess Arch-Duchess of Austria 
and Grand-Ducal Princess, of Tuscany. She died 
in 1864. Until his assumption of the Regency, 
Luitpold was Master General of the Ordnance in 



THE PRINCE-REGENT 121 

the Bavarian army. When but fourteen he was 
made a Captain and when but eighteen a Colonel 
of the regiment now bearing his name (the 
I st Artillery). The Prince Regent has four children; 
three sons and a daughter. The heir presumptive 
is Prince Ludwig, a General of Infantry, who is 
married to a Princess of the House of Este 
(Austrian). His second son, Prince Leopold, mar- 
ried the Princess Gisela, daughter of the Empress 
of Austria, and the third son, Prince Arnulf is 
married to a Princess of the reigning House of 
Lichtenstein. The third Bavarian heir-presump- 
tive is Prince Rupprecht, eldest son of Prince 
Ludwig, and married to Duchess Gabriel, daughter 
of Karl Theodor, in 1900. He was born in 1869 
and is a Lieutenant in the 3 rd Bavarian Regiment 
of Artillery. Prince Luitpold is a veteran soldier, 
having fought in many battles; notably, in the 
Franco-Prussian war of 1870. He was the only 
one of Ludwig's sons to receive a military edu- 
cation and under him the army has again begun 
to assert an absorbing despotism. 

1899 was the 100 anniversary of the Zweibriicken- 
Birkenfeld line. 

Since the rule of the Prince Regent the splen- 
did new National Museum has been built, the 
famous Prince Regenten-Theater, the Palace of 
Justice (which is considered the finest specimen 
of Late-Renaissance architecture in Europe) and 
the Army Museum at the end of the Hofgarten, 
only completed in the winter of 1905, and the 
New Rathaus. The Luitpold Bridge over the 



122 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Isar, the lovely Luitpold Terrace above the 
river, and the exquisite, delicately poised Peace 
Monument, were begun and finished since his 
regency. 

This year of 1906 witnessed the celebration of 
the one hundreth anniversary of Bavaria as a 
Kingdom. 



IV. 



"Art rests on a kind of religious sense and on a deep 
steadfast earnestness; and on this account it unites so 
readily with religion." Goethe. 



ART AND RELIGION 125 



ETHICS, LITERATURE, ART, ARCHI- 
TECTURE AND RELIGION. 

Perhaps the study of history teaches us one 
thing more clearly than aught else, the indubi- 
table, absolute and, furthermore, necessary union 
of religion and morals with art. Great art is, 
after all, beneath many technical phrases, but a 
capturing of the mood spiritual. Art devoid of 
morals, of ethical values cannot live, is comple- 
tely useless, nay more, one may dare say has 
hardly ever existed before the present times, if 
one may apply the word "art" to the immoral 
excuses expressed through some art mediums in 
these days. As far back as one can trace, art 
has been the manifestation of the religion which 
animated the nation and individual in its given 
period. The religion of the Greeks was Immorta- 
lity ; the immortality of the Soul and of Beauty, 
and they endeavoured with every fibre of their 
beings to defend that Beauty and "live the 
dream that was in them". The great art epics, 
which stormed, at first so crudely, through the 
hearts of the wanderers during the Migration 
periods, now unhappily lost to us, were the endea- 
vours of their turbulent souls to express their 
worship j for the "Elemental Gods". The art of 



126 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

modern Europe, apart from its sculpture, is the 
result of the luminous teachings of a sad, lonely 
Gallilean, the Divine founder of the Christian 
Religion. The art which he inspired may not 
always have been, nor be, merely an exposition 
of his concrete teachings, but one can safely 
assert that little art would have been ours today 
without the story of his martyrdom on the hori- 
zon. His was the impetus which awoke the desire 
for the mystical places of prayer (temples, altars 
and images for other creeds had of course been 
erected in all lands long before this, but we are 
speaking chiefly of the lands above Italy), in 
which to be able the more fittingly to approach 
His Presence. For love of Him, ardent and devout 
souls illuminated the Gospels and early books of 
prayer. Pictures, monuments, architecture, poems, 
sacred and miracle plays, all, as it were, impelled 
by the dominance of His far-reaching power and 
the result of the deep, unchangeable, earnest 
and religious sense in man. As religion becomes 
universal, so vast that it escapes all definite creed 
or power of diminishing words, embracing all 
Love, Beauty, Concord, Spirituality and a con- 
sciousness of the soul's immortality, the Omni- 
present God and the illimitable Godhead in man, 
so must art broaden, becoming ever more full 
of wonder and beauty, haloed by the luminous 
shadow of an "unseen power". And so, to garner into 
our vision, the epics, art, architecture and literature, 
and the great art natures which have glorified this 
one small kingdom, we must again go far, far 



ART AND RELIGION 



back and follow the religious atmospheres which 
have, through various periods, controlled her. 
We shall find that the ideal had to follow its 
star over many a winding road, beneath dark 
abysses, over rough tracks, gloomy ways, face 
many corruptions, oftentimes expressed through 
strange and incomprehensible mediums, "the 
artist being merely the path of the Creator to 
his work". Quietly, irresistibly, these two forces, 
Art and Religion, have gone their steady upward 
way with a train of martyrs, sages, mystics, 
"men of sorrow, and acquainted with grief", 
shadowed often with despair, and by a seemingly 
eternal and awful failure. Nevertheless an army 
that "never turned it's back, but marched breast 
forward" following it's undivided starlit way, despite 
the wars, plagues, conquests, influx of foes, political 
corruption, the base power of prelates and ignoble 
ecclesiastics. The waves of these latter evils may, 
and did, for a time shatter the borders of the 
developement of art. The fantastic French in- 
fluence later, seemed to turn men's eyes from 
the path of wholesome courses ; and the modern 
nervous artificiality and poverty-stricken desire 
to startle, seems to pervert and banish the true 
aim, purpose and object of this mighty force for 
joy, revelation and spirituality. Art for Art's 
sake (unless we include in those words Religion, in 
it's deepest, widest and most all embracing sense), 
is the most insufficient of all cries. Every sense 
within us, mystery, truth and wonder, all repea- 
tedly affirm, if we would but listen, that art 



128 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

must be for the sake of religion, inspiration and 
beauty. Otherwise it sinks no deeper than the 
eye's glance ; awakens no faculty but the critical, 
and appeals to no depth but the egotism of the 
senses. 

* 

The loss of the poems, legends and folk-songs, 
which Charlemagne had collected and which his 
narrow son, Ludwig the Pious, had burned as 
heathen monstrosities, was an irreparable loss. 
A few of the native German traditions, however, 
had not all been destroyed, but those fanatically 
inclined endeavoured also to suppress them. But 
we know that they must have been full of vivid 
pictures of the stir and strife of the times, and 
were sung and recited in the banqueting halls 
of the Germanic kings; the composers and singers 
being men of noble birth who had personally 
taken part in the events of which they sang. 
Christianity had made its first entrance and 
potent mark very early into Bavaria, completely 
transforming the people and country, bringing in 
an entirely new element and attitude, and culti- 
vating in the rough people an upward tendency, 
and striving to express their manifold yearnings 
n adequate outward form. In 472 Saint Seve- 
rinus met everywhere on his journey through 
Noricum, Christian churches and missionaries. 
A hundred years before the gospels had been 
widely spread through the splendour of such 
brains as Theodoric the Ostrogoth, and Bishop 



ART AND RELIGION I2Q 

Ulfilas the Visgoth (d. 381). (It was the latter 
who translated the Gospels into old Gothic and 
the selfsame work, a labour both of religious 
adoration and impelled by the springs of art, is 
still to be seen in the library at Upsala. It was 
done in silver letters on a purple ground.) In 
Bavaria proper the Irish missionaries were the 
first definite preachers of the Gospels, and their 
earliest manuscripts are to be found there, and 
not in their own country, as one might suppose. 
During the 6 th and 7 th centuries they were moved 
by a perfect ecstasy for missionary work and 
crossed from Ireland in little wicker canoes co- 
vered with hides, which they paddled, to England, 
France and Germany. Thus did Celt return to 
Celt, and the present enormous and inconceivably 
momentous Celtic Renaissance in Ireland and 
Scotland, for the resuscitating of their ancient 
speech, their folk-lore, old sense of mystery and 
wonder, which so animated them, their quaint 
and sweet beliefs, their profound genius for poetry, 
their passion for religion, their inherent compre- 
hension of, and power for art, must appear of 
redoubled interest to us. 

For there is much in common between the 
true, simple Celtic Bavarian and the Irish. 

It was about this time that Saint Kilian (the 
Scotch monk), Colman and Totnan came to Wiirz- 
burg, were the former was martyred, in 613. 

Saint Gallen also came from Ireland (founding 
the monastery named after him), and later Mag- 
nus, who introduced Christianity into Kempten 

Norman, Bavarian History. 9 



130 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

and Fiissen. But like all luminous things, the 
way was long, and although the Christian religion 
had taken indestructable root, it did not imme- 
diately infuse itself and come vividly to light, 
at one time seeming like to perish and flicker 
out like a wind-blown candle, both for lack of 
followers and the insincerity and hypocrisy on 
the part of the so-called Bishops. But into this 
world of spiritual decadence came that ever to 
be remembered, sweet, earnest and abnegating 
soul, the Devonshire monk, Saint Boniface (or 
Winifred, the Good Doer). After his advent into 
Bavaria, he sent to England and Ireland for more 
helpers and missionaries. Many answered his 
call and immediately he began everywhere to 
found schools and build monasteries. The monks, 
under his guidance and inspiration, tilled the 
ground, drained the marshes, planted fruit trees 
and corn, and carried on various kinds of trades. 
Those whom they converted settled in cottages 
around the base of the hills whereon stood their 
monasteries, and these settlements grew and thri- 
ved until at last they developed into villages, 
towns and later into the great cities. In 735 
Saint Boniface founded the order of Bishops in 
Bavaria and made more firm and complete the 
bond between the new German and Prankish 
churches and the Church of Rome. He was 
called "the Apostle of the Germans". In 732 he 
founded in Bavaria the Bishoprics of Freising, 
Passau, Regensburg, Eichstadt, Wiirzburg and 
Erfurt. When he was seventy-four years old he 



ART AND RELIGION JJJ 

went to preach the gospels to the heathen Frisians, 
by whom he was murdered in 755, but not be- 
fore he had awakened with vigorous strokes the 
sleeping germs of Christianity and set in motion 
that definite movement towards the civilizing and 
educating of the rude people among whom he sacri- 
ficed his life. Before this, in the year 600, Bishop 
Ruprecht (who had been driven out of Worms), 
went with St. Emmerau to Regensburg. They 
had been called there by the ruling duke of Ba- 
varia, Theodo, who had been converted to Christia- 
nity by his wife Regintrude. He earnestly desi- 
red the gospels to be more widely spread in his 
small domain, and so later Ruprecht was sent 
to Juvavum (Salzburg), which had formerly been 
a Roman military station, with a determination 
to make it his head quarters for the furtherance 
of the Gospels. From that time on Salzburg 
played an important part in the history of Ba- 
varia. Other prominent propagators of the gospels 
in Bavaria were Corbinian and Willibald of Eich- 
stadt. Hand in hand with the absorbing of the 
Christian religion, took root and blossomed out 
the first seeds of the present national art and 
culture. Monasteries were built in all parts of 
the kingdom for the preservation of the new 
creed. The monks and Bishops especially culti- 
vating the handicrafts, architecture and the illumi- 
nating of the sacred books. For a long time 
they were the only strivers after the beautiful 
in both buildings and handiwork. The most fa- 
mous early monasteries in Bavaria were St. Em- 

9* 



132 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

merau, Wellenburg, Weihenstephan (near Frei- 
sing), Herrenchiemsee, Tegernsee and Wessobriinn. 

The Benedictine monastery was founded as 
early as the seventh century. 

"All that Europe knows or possesses of art 
and knowledge," wrote the famous Dr. Dollinger, 
the Bavarian theologian, many centuries later, 
"she owes to St. Benedictine and the cloisters 
which he founded and which sprang from his 
incentive and inspiring genius. One thousand two 
hundred years have gone by since he trod this 
earth, pioneering weary souls and those possessed 
of deep philanthropic ideals, to his haven of rest 
and work combined. Those havens were one 
could both meditate and yet be of practical service 
and use. The wisdom of this rule with its happy 
combination of action and contemplative life 
remain to this day, and from his cloisters have 
sprung the works which have regenerated the 
world." 

In 748 788 was found, in the monastery at 
Wessobriinn, near Weilheim, a very ancient 
prayer in the old poetic form, which even then 
was on the wane. It was called the "Wessobriinn 
Prayer" and is still to be seen in the Royal State 
Library at Munich. At Regensburg also was 
found another very ancient poem called "Muspilli", 
treating of the end of the world and the judge- 
ment day. It, too, is supposed to have been 
written in Bavaria. Many of the first works of 
literature, poetry, painting &c., came from Ba- 
varian monasteries. The first glass painting ever 



ART AND RELIGION 133 

done in Germany was started at Tegernsee (962), 
and from thence spread over the entire country. 
The poetry of the period had been, both in 
form, subject matter and text, Latin, but now 
they turned to their own traditions for inspiration, 
although Latin was still the tongue written in. 
The forerunners of these new poems were the 
Nibelungen Sagen, later translated by Bishop 
Pilgrim of Passau. The Ruodlieb of Helden poetry 
was also in Latin, written by Monk Froumond 
of the Tegernsee monastery (1000). In St. Gallen, 
at the beginning of the eleventh century, the 
Psalms were translated and also the book of 
Job, printed in both Latin and German. About 
the middle of the same century Williram of Ebers- 
burg in Upper Bavaria, formerly a teacher in 
Bamberg, introduced and translated hymns, and 
at the same time Ezzo of Bamberg wrote the 
song or poem of the Miracles of Christ, a typical 
early German poem. After this Bishop Giinther 
went on a long pilgrimage to Palestine and soon 
after began the great era of the Crusades. We 
have drifted a little too far ahead and must re- 
turn again to the era of Charlemagne (768 814), 
under whose progressive influence Bavaria deve- 
loped farther and farther on the highways of 
art and culture, realizing too in her deeper con- 
science with the other Germanic lands, that they 
must be more and more solded together, and 
that it would be of infinite benefit to their tempo- 
ral and worldly good to allow this spiritual power 
to be the means of putting an end to the con- 



134 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

stant bickerings and fightings and combine them 
into one compact nation. But it was a long 
delayed dream! From the death of Charle- 
magne, to the succession of the Wittelsbachs, Ba- 
varia passed through innumerable vicissitudes, 
retardations and difficulties. But she was, as we 
have seen, growing with every year, more power- 
ful and prominent. All her towns were on the 
great trading roads between Italy and the heart 
of Germany. Consequently she was ever in re- 
ceptive touch with the outside world, receiving new 
impressions of art, sculpture, beauty, and advan- 
cing in the progression of trade. Enormous wealth 
was floating towards her. Her commerce and art 
increased with astonishing rapidity. Her dukes, 
bishops and merchants were noted for their in- 
dependence, power, wealth and magnificence. And 
although her days were of necessity full of both 
great and small combats, the flowers of a world 
famous period of art were lifting their irrepres- 
sible heads. The beginnings of beautiful and 
lasting examples of architecture were manifesting 
themselves in both monastery, castles, cathedrals, 
churches and private dwellings. Charlemagne had 
himself encouraged the renewing of classical lite- 
rature, the writing of poetry, and had brought 
musicians, builders, architects and singers from 
Italy. The Christian Church, under the power 
with which he had invested it, was becoming 
almost the greatest power in the land, both politi- 
cally and scholastically, although it had almost 
completely escaped from it's original purpose and 



ART AND RELIGION 135 

meaning, by the worldly personalities of the 
Archbishops and other ecclesiastics. Nevertheless 
the monasteries were the chief seats of learning, 
and many brilliant women who were in convents, 
or ruling them as abbesses, were earnest students 
and produced many valuable literary works. The 
first play ever written in the history of modern 
Europe was the work of a nun. A typical poem 
of this period was one written by a Saxon monk 
by order of Ludwig the Pious, then ruling Ba- 
varia, on religious and national subjects. It was 
called "Heljand or the Redeemer", and was an 
endeavour on the part of the king to open the 
ears of his subjects to the true meaning of 
Christianity. It was commenced about 830. 

In 942 the cathedral of Speir was founded by 
Duke Henry II. and between 1103 and 1120 the 
cathedral at Bamberg by King Henry the Saint. 
In the Royal State Library at Munich are to be 
seen the most rare, beautiful and valuable manu- 
scripts used by Henry II. at his cathedral. 

That the ecclesiastical prelates were well versed 
in all the technicalities, as well as the ambitions 
for artistic progress, is potently manifest when 
we read that for the completion of his cathedral 
at Speier, Henry IV. sent "for the famous archi- 
tect, Bishop Otto of Bamberg, to overlook and 
finish the work". 

Between the rule of Otto of Wittelsbach and Lud- 
wig the Bavarian, the intense artistic progression 
made, was little short of bewildering. The thir- 
teenth and fourteenth centuries were alive with 



Jj6 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

a growing independence and a deepening desire for 
individual expression in poetry, painting, and 
stone. The above two mentioned cathedrals and 
the one at Regensburg, founded in the thirteenth 
century, are masterpieces of early German archi- 
tecture. The first two are in Romanesque, the 
latter in Gothic, style. The dominance of the 
clerical party of course coloured all the literature 
of the period. In feelings and life they were 
anything but clerical, being strongly flavoured 
with national, more than universal, ambitions. 
The real and sensuous world attracted them and 
their pens infinitely more than the spiritual, ab- 
stract and ideal. They were all men of warfare, 
keen on politics, and possessed of an inordinate 
love of power, adulation, position, and love for 
worldly goods. 

They followed most consistently the dictates of 
those churchmen who, "would fain kill their 
church, as the churches had killed their Christ". 
Consequently the literature of the tenth and ele- 
venth centuries was entirely realistic, often mun- 
dane, and very sensual. The first novel of modern 
European literature was written by an unknown 
Bavarian monk in the monastery at Tegernsee 
in 1030. The work gives one a very vivid pic- 
ture of the atmosphere of life in Bavaria during 
the first half of the eleventh century, proving it 
to be sadly sensual, narrow and prejudiced. 

And now we come to the age of Romance. 
All the above was changed to a great extent by 
the daring strokes of Frederic Barbarossa and 



THE CRUSADERS AND TROUBADOURS 



the deep pure ideals of the knights of the Crusades. 
Chivalric culture took the place of clerical learning. 
The above named Emperor had an incalculable in- 
fluence on his epoch by his remarkable indepen- 
dence of thought. He was the first broad minded 
free-thinker of modern times, and broke through 
many a granite wall of prejudice, setting in 
movement the great resistance against the all 
absorbing power of the Romish Church. 

The whole atmosphere was changed too by the 
oversweeping ambitions of the Crusades. This 
movement reawakened the enthusiasm for the old 
heroes, lighted many a phlegmatic heart and 
again the Gods were celebrated in song, epics 
and saga. But they were thoroughly altered from 
the Migration period, being completely Christianized. 
The ancient, fierce, strong, barbaric rovers were 
turned into chivalrous knights, although at times 
the old spirit of the contemporaries of Attila, 
king of the Huns, and Theodoric, at times creeps 
forth. This period was not only characterized by 
the resuscitation of the old Helden-Sagen, but by 
the birth of the Minnesingers. These knights 
established innumerable manners and customs of 
morals and noble ideas, not the least impetus 
coming from distant Provence, that home of song 
and ideal knighthood, thus introducing French 
court epics and the Provencal troubadours into 
Bavaria. 

These troubadours were knights and gentlemen 
of Provence who composed their own songs and 
wandered over the country giving expression to 



138 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

them. The word comes from "trouver", to find, 
meaning the "discoverers". The Germans, espe- 
cially in Bavaria, quickly assimilated and followed 
their example, their poets calling themselves 
"Minnesingers" or "Love-Singers". At first they 
borrowed a good deal from the French, but later 
they "turned the lamp inward upon themselves" 
and composed heroic poems from the old German 
legends. Is there any country so throbbing with 
Romance as Bavaria? One portion of it's history 
is ablaze with Sagen, legend and mystic atmo- 
sphere. Tall mountain peaks, exquisite undulating 
valleys, rivers, caves, castles, monasteries, gate- 
ways, fortresses, all were fraught with a pregnant 
call to dream; an aroma of old-world fable, 
haunted by mimes, fairies, gnomes and goblins. 
During the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth cen- 
turies, the travels of the Bavarian knights in- 
undated the land with tales of strange and wonder- 
ful adventure. The Welf and Thuringian Dukes 
were all ardent patrons of Art, and their courts 
the homes for Minnesingers and Troubadours. The 
chronicles of the Welfs and Babenbergers especially 
are characterized by their love and cultivation of 
chivalry and knightly heroism. Welf VI., the hus- 
band of the brave Countess Ida, was famous for 
his protection of players. At the court of Henry 
the Proud, the court pastor Conrad composed at 
the request of the Duchess a poem which he 
recited in French, Latin and German, describing 
the deeds of Charlemagne. This poem was called 
the "Rolandslied", and belongs to that great 



THE NIBELUNGEN LIED 139 

cycle of which the Nibelungen Lied is a part. 
In the time of Henry the Lion, Wirrnherr, a monk 
of Tegernsee, wrote the life of Mary, in verse 
and prose. 

Between 1221 and 1228 Conrad of Wurzburg 
wrote "The World's Reward, or the Golden Forge" 
which reveals an earnest spirituality. Hugo von 
Trimberger, a Bamberg schoolmaster, also a poet 
of the thirteenth century, wrote a didactic poem 
entitled "Der Renner". 

In 1386 at Heidelberg, the early home of the 
Wittelsbachs, the University was founded. All 
over Bavaria the spirit of Romance, poetry, song 
and short story, ran a riotous way, and the most 
important movement of modern literature was 
founded. The peasants, merchants and artisans 
began slowly to realize their rights and to take 
their place beside the clergy and knight in public 
and artistic life. The famous cycle, Frisian, Bur- 
gundian, Anglo-Saxon and Lombard, out of which 
sprang the Nibelungen Lied, is too well known 
here to analize. The Walthuri Saga is preserved 
to us in Latin by the monk Ekkehard of 
St. Gallen (930). 

The Nibelungen (of the Burgundian cycle or 
Kreise) was gathered in and first written by two 
unknown Austrian poets about 1136, also the 
Kudrun Lied. In the fourteenth century, Bishop 
Pilgrim of Passau, gathered into one volume all 
that he could find of these sagas. The collection 
of these ballads, called the "Nibelungen Lied and 
Chriemhildes Revenge" and "The Lament" were 



140 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

translated into German, first by Karl Simrock, 
from a Swiss poetical version by Professor Bodmer, 
about 1575. Bavaria at this time was rich with 
the presence of two luminous characters, Wolfram 
von Eschenbach, and Walther von der Vogel- 
weide. The latter was the first whole-souled 
patriot of German literature; he brought the 
lyrics of the middle ages to their greatest emi- 
nence and perfection. He lived for a long time 
at Wiirzburg and his monument is to be seen 
there in the Kreuzgang of the Neue Miinster. 
Wolfram von Eschenbach was also a noble and 
gallant knight, his whole life dedicated to an 
exalted love, living on his small property in the 
little town of Ansbach in Eschenbach. It is now 
the capital of central Franconia. He was the 
greatest epic poet of the middle ages, belonging 
to that small circle of poets and troubadours 
who, in the last years of the twelfth, and first 
years of the thirteenth century, assembled at the 
court of the Landgraf Herrmann of Thuringia, 
and made a brilliant centre, similar to that for- 
med six hundred years later by the prince of the 
same Duchy, when the greatest poets of the 
eighteenth century marked a new era in Eu- 
ropean culture and progression. He wrote a series 
or cycle of poems entitled, "Titurel and Parsival", 
in which also Lohengrin is mentioned. It is to 
him that we owe our most intimate knowledge 
of Parsifal. Lohengrin also springs out of Ba- 
varian folk-lore, and Tannhauser was a Bavarian 
knight who led a wild and roving life, dying 



WOLFRAM VON ESCHENBACH 141 

about 1270. The castle of Neuschwanstein* being 
built on the site of the ancient castle of Tannhauser. 

The greatest historian of the Middle Ages was 
Bishop Otto of Freising, the son of Leopold, Mar- 
grave of Austria, a grandson of Henry VI. and 
a cousin of Frederick Barbarossa. He was the 
latters biographer. The Crusades, apart from the 
new refinements they introduced, proved inva- 
luable in the broadening of the mental capacities. 
For the long journeys and wanderings through 
many lands quickened all the senses by new 
sights and sounds, exciting an interest in geo- 
graphy, history, the natural sciences and intro- 
ducing the travellers, to many unknown pro- 
ducts, such as sugar, spices, silk, dyes &c. With 
the fall of the great Hohenstaufen dynasty (1268) 
began the decline of national unity and the disso- 
lution of clerical supremacy. The advanced minds 
of the day were beginning to fall away from 
the belief of the complete infallibility of the Pope. 
Ecclesiasticism was proving itself a spiritual and 
national failure. In deep souls it was being 
realized that this obsessive external power had 
little to do with internal truth. Dante, the su- 
preme forerunner of humanism, was raising his 
clarion, withal desolate, cry. 

The great transition period between medieval 
and modern times was in motion, and all art 
was profoundly affected. It must not be forgotten 
that during all these troublous times the Dukes 



* Or Hohenschwangau. It is not quite possible to ascertain! 



142 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

of Bavaria were founding innumerable universities, 
and building the cathedrals which have so grown to 
be her pride and glory today, and in the forth- 
coming sixteenth century they did an infinite deal 
to save the religious reformation from being 
buried in a party hatred and fanaticism. The 
history of Bavaria from the tenth to the eleventh 
centuries, is one of a struggle for emancipation. 
All her more important cities were Free Imperial 
cities, and this political independence, while it 
certainly did eventually have much to do with 
the dissolution of the national unity and the 
religious horrors which followed, nevertheless 
gave birth to that great wave of art which 
dominated so majestically the future. For the 
settlements of artisans employed by the bishops, 
and living around the bishop's palaces, had in the 
course of time changed into independent com- 
munities of free citizens, making and executing 
their own laws, electing their own magistrates, 
ranking with the princes and barons as important 
props and impellers of the kingdom. The lite- 
rature in its inevitable alteration may at first 
seem disappointing, the heroic grandeur of the 
national epic, the grace and dignity of the court 
romances, becoming things of the past. But slowly 
their place was taken by a deeper thought and 
a higher common sense, and though no great 
poet stands out luminously to light the way in 
the fore-going era, the way was being paved for 
a Luther, a Diirer, Melanchthon, Lessing, Kant, 
Goethe, Schiller and down and onwards into the 



THE FRANCISCANS AND DOMINICANS 143 

oncoming centuries to all the great writers of 
poetry, science and philosophy in modern times. 
The germ of what we now know as individuality 
had its seed in this period. For the first time 
popular criticism lifted up its head and attacked 
the existing order of things and all the evils and 
abuses they entailed. The first remarkable mani- 
festation of this new spirit was to be found in 
the religious oratory which was brought about 
chiefly by the two great preaching orders, the 
Franciscans and Dominicans. With their entrance 
into Bavaria a marked and beneficial change 
began to manifest itself. Free speech began to 
feel the power of its soaring and compelling 
wings; expression among the people began to 
assert its needs. It was chiefly from these two 
above named orders that the innumerable travelling 
preachers sprang. They went about from town 
to town speaking on whatever subject or text 
they chose, and on any day, whereas before the 
sermons were only preached on Sundays and 
Holy days, and then under the greatest restrictions 
and strictest supervision. But now all was changed. 
They used any place most convenient for their 
sermons; either the public square, before the city 
gates, from the steeples, or the trees. The most 
influential speaker of this period was Bertold of 
Regensburg, the greatest orator of his century 
and a pupil of the also famous preacher David 
of Augsburg. They were the virtual founders of 
that potential wave of 14 th century mysticism. 
The Dominican Bishop of Regensburg and Al- 



144 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

bertus Magnus were also two of most the learned, 
cultivated men of their century and did much 
to improve the condition of freedom for the people, 
in both art and life. Of great import at this 
time was the building of the first paper factory 
(1320) and also the building and working of the 
first mill by water power at Nuremberg (1390). 
The artistic soil of Bavaria was so rich in the 
14 th and 15* centuries, her individual towns so 
amazingly productive, her gift to the entire world 
of great and artistic souls so resplendent, that 
one can but barely touch on their most important 
names and works. The cities, Nuremberg, Augs- 
burg, Rothenburg and Wiirzburg will have to be 
treated separately. Each one of these grew in 
beauty and wonder. The spirit for beautifying, 
for following all the arts and crafts was not 
limited to the luminous names of which we so 
well know, but seemingly to all the citizens. The 
atmosphere was impregnated with the desire to 
beautify. As in America today the spirit is one 
of rush, hurry and the desire to get on, and make 
money, so, then was it the desire to create 
lasting and exquisite works of art, not only in 
ornaments, pictures and statues, but in streets, 
houses, bridges, door-lintels and courts. In 1450 
Ludwig the Severe founded the University at 
Ingolstadt and to this period belongs the great 
mathematician, Johann Miiller, who went from 
Konigsberg to Nuremberg ; also Johann Reuchlin, 
Conrad Celtis, Martin Behaim and the learned 
philologist, Rudolf Agricola. 



GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE 145 

The architectural evolution had of course during 
all this time been gradually advancing and growing 
under every fresh impetus and influx of new and 
foreign ideas. The slow, fascinating and at first 
almost imperceptible and most delicate changes, 
creeping in to decorate more suggestively the moul- 
dings on walls, the tracery on windows, the choir, 
doors, nave and towers, gradually transforming 
all to a marvellous internal harmony and external 
beauty. The art style which had existed in 
Bavaria from the io th to the 13 th centuries 
was entirely Romanesque, which latter was a 
developement from the Roman Basilica of distant 
early-Christian days. The most typical examples 
to be seen being the cathedrals at Ratisbon, Speier, 
and the finest of all at Bamberg. 

About the middle of the 13 th century the style 
generally known as Gothic manifested itself, in 
cathedral, city and conventual churches. It was 
partly an independent and original growth and 
partly receptive to a wave of architectural in- 
fluence from France. The churches of Nuremberg 
and Rothenburg, the Frauenkirche in Munich and 
the St. Martinskirche at Landshut being luminious 
exemplifications of these majestic edifices. 

Technical skill was making miraculous advance 
in sculpture, painting and architecture during 
the 15 th century, achieving, from the splendid 
foundations of the school, invaluable knowledge 
from which to work up, onwards and outwards. 
Painting, wood-carving and sculpture finding the 
richest of soil and mediums of incontestable genius 

Norman, Bavarian History. 10 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 



in Bavaria; Nuremberg and Augsburg being the 
most important radiating centres in all Germany 
for art works of every sort. Wiirzburg too was 
not far behind in her presentations of master- 
pieces at this time. Wood carving was prominently 
brought to the fore by the works of Veit Stoss 
in Nuremberg; painting, by such world famous 
artists as Wohlgemiith (1435 1519), Diirer (1571 
to 1628 and his little group of famous followers), 
Hans Schauffelein, Sebald and Barthel Beham, Al- 
bert Altdorfer, Hans Baldung Grien, and Christopher 
Amberger and the prolific Tilman Riemenschneider 
of Wiirzburg, the celebrated landscape painter of 
that city; sculpture and bronze work by Adam 
Krafft and Peter Vischer. 

Still another influence manifested itself toward 
the end of the 15 th century, which grew out 
in ever widening blossoms till it reached an 
incalculably glorious maturity in the splendid 
"German Renaissance". In the early part of this 
century, and probably earlier, the artisans and 
artists of Bavaria had begun to visit Italy and 
were in consequence much influenced by the 
difference and variety of art styles there prevalent. 
The 1 6 th century is very strongly flavoured with 
the influences of this warm, glowing, colorful 
land; which began to guide the chisel as well as 
the brush to the introducing of the characteristic 
ornamentation of the Italian architecture. All over 
Bavaria, in too numerous examples to mention, 
the German Renaissance, laid its magic touch, 
not only in new buildings but in re-touching the 



THE GERMAN RENAISSANCE 147 

old ones. The Fiigger Bath Rooms in Augsburg and 
the St. Michaels Kirche in Munich are, one might 
say, absolutely Italian Renaissance, so dominant 
had been the power of southern thought on 
the South German temperament. In every town 
and minute parish the new spirit entered, Nurem- 
berg, Rothenburg and Augsburg leaping with their 
usual ardent receptivity to the front ranks of the 
most perfect examples of German Renaissance 
towns. 

It was Albrecht the Wise of Munich who founded 
the Frauenkirche, St. Salvator's (now the Greek 
Church) and also the Royal State Library. Bet- 
ween 1508 1550 Johann Turmair appeared x in 
Ingolstadt. Adam Krafft, Peter Vischer, Willibald, 
Pirckheimer, Hans Sachs and Diirer were but a 
few of the names which glorified Nuremberg. In 
Augsburg Conrad Peutinger and Holbein were 
crowning their names with greatness. Painting, 
sculpture, iron, bronze and copper works, and all 
the creations of "those mediaevals architects whose 
lives were a prayer in marble", exquisite silver 
and goldsmith's work, fresco-painting, sarcophogi, 
carving, &c. all reached a height where criticism 
stands dumb. The illuminated books of the period 
were gems of patient, perfect art and coloring. 
A very good example of the last named is the 
Tournament Book of Wilhelm IV. to be seen in 
the Royal State Library at Munich. Albrecht V. 
was a great lover of art and also an ambitious 
collector, he started the collection of Wittelsbach 
treasures now in the Reiche Kapelle and encouraged 

10* 



148 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

the genius and talent of such men as Orlando 
de Lasso (the founder, one may say, of German 
music), Philip Apain, Migulas Hund and Hans 
Mielich, the painter. He also decorated the Cha- 
teau of Trausnitz which had been built by Duke 
Ludwig. Another interesting book to be seen in 
the Royal State Library is the prayer-book of 
this same Albrecht, beautifully illuminated and 
containing psalms written for his orchestra by 
Orlando de Lasso. He also founded at this time 
the Gymnasium in Munich. And so the great 
tide of art in all breasts swept on its way, re- 
ceiving a tremendous religious impetus and in- 
spiration from the Reformation which was ablaze 
in most hearts and guiding their genius. Luther's 
spirit was abroad in all men, urging them to faith 
and freedom. 

William V. began the St. Michaelskirche and 
founded the University at Wiirzburg. 

Maximilian I., the great Elector, built the Reiche 
Kapelle for the reception of Albrecht the Wise's 
collection. He personally, apart from his warrior- 
like propensities, was a fine, delicate artist, carving 
in ivory, beautiful Chinese vases and candelabra, 
still to be seen in Munich. He was also an ardent 
admirer of his incomparable countryman, Albrecht 
Diirer, and secured many of his finest works. 
Peter Candid also glorified Bavaria at this time. 
The mediaeval cycle was running its inspiring 
course when suddenly, imperceptibly, the tide began 
to change, and a new phase entered, a new spirit 
moved on the face of the artistic waters. The 



THE THIRTY YEARS WAR 149 

surface of Bavarian art slowly began to change 
its colors, forms, ideals and dreams. 

A strange and tragic spectacle was manifested 
toward the end of the sixteenth century. At the 
beginning, Bavaria had shown not only the highest 
intellectual promise, but the most extraordinary 
prolixity in artists and art. The long pent up 
revolt against class rule, which reached its highest 
climax before the Reformation and its second 
before the Revolution, was impelling all men to 
break forth and speak their word, through poem, 
book, picture, or statue, with elemental power. 
Great men were everywhere standing up for great 
causes. All were republicans at heart. Holbein, 
Diirer, Melanchthon, Candid, Vischer, &c. were 
hand in hand spiritually with Erasmus, Coperni- 
cus, Hutten and Luther. The entire world was 
swayed by the deepest feelings. Art was the 
medium, combined with the true religious sense, 
that sense of universality against restrictive for- 
malities, to express, reveal, break down and re- 
build. The way was being prepared by them for 
a new and higher form of national life, for a 
more suggestive art, and a more glorious religion. 
But suddenly, tragically, the "Golden Age" seeming- 
ly so near at hand, was swept off its feet, the 
door already opened brutally and inexorably shut, 
and the liberty so dearly bought hurried away 
into a cruel vortex, and for the time being 
hopelessly lost in the terrible contest between 
Catholic and Protestant, Calvinist and Reformed. 

The war of the churches leads to the most 



150 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

awful of all destructions. To argue over religion 
is to murder religion. To fight over it is the 
most arrant of blasphemies and incomprehensible 
of inconsistences. 

And so Bavaria drifted with the rest of Ger- 
many towards the abyss of the Thirty Years War. 

Its disasterous effect upon art was incalculable. 
From 1618 to 1641 Bavaria and all her cities 
were in the clutches of this long, weary, devas- 
tating fight. Her towns were almost ruined: her 
trade was lost: her castles, monasteries and churches 
were ransacked, burned, torn and shattered to 
mounds of lost glory. First by Catholic and then 
by the Protestant Swedes. She sank into a hopeless 
mire of mental and spiritual degradation. Being 
the head of the Catholic League she was the 
chief recipient for all the hate which that party 
engendered. Notwithstandig the "Pacification of 
Passau", the Diet at Augsburg, and the "Con- 
fession" drawn up by Melanchthon, peace seemed 
an inanimate thing. Beauty, and all desire for 
it, to have vanished. 

The men of the period were mostly brutalised 
by the hate animating every party. The land 
was so torn up, the mere difficulty of living so 
great that art was a lamp extinguished: a wan- 
dering, disembodied soul. 

When at last peace did come the spirit of the 
nation had undergone a complete change. France 
was very highly cultivated, withal in a rather super- 
ficial manner, inclined to the external and the 
frivolous. But the few left in Bavaria, who still 



THE ROCOCO STYLE 151 

had some desire for a return of delicacy and 
beauty, turned their eyes to her for inspiration. 
Gradually the inevitable and overmastering desire 
for art returned and France became the lodstar, 
pattern and model, and Louis XIV. the idol by 
whom all must live. The new element was first 
definitely introduced by the wife of Elector Ferdi- 
nand Marie, Henrietta Adelaide of Savoy. She 
came from the land of "rococo" and soon after 
her marriage asked her husband to build her a 
palace after the one at Versailles. And so Nymphen- 
burg was built. This new style, a mixture of 
both French and Italian Baroque, caught hold of 
every heart. Every petty prince, duke, count and 
bishop wanted his miniature Versailles and the 
results were some very beautiful and some very 
ridiculous exemplifications of this style, so full 
of ,,pomp and weakness". It was a reaction, 
not only against the awful horrors of the wars, 
but against the severity, soberness and a certain 
stiffness prevalent in mediaeval times. The rococo 
was light, full of a "fantastic foppery", a quaint 
lightness, a courtly flippant grace. It was preg- 
nant too with a certain element of unreality, 
which spirit also potently invaded the literature, 
painting and manners of the period. It was dainty 
on the surface, but beneath sickly and unwhole- 
some, devoid of fibre and backbone, of soul, 
lasting strength or suggestiveness. 

But it came as a relief to the worn out nation. 
Everywhere in Bavaria repairs now went on in 
churches, castles, palaces, rath-houses and all 



152 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

public buildings. It developed a splendid, extra- 
vagant, artificial and luxurious spirit. Churches 
were redecorated in the new style and many new 
ones built. The bishop of Wiirzburg built him- 
self a typical palace of the times. It contained 
two-hundred and eighty four rooms, one completely 
lined with mirrors and another devoted to a merry- 
go-round for the amusement of the prelates. His 
Eminence having for himself a little plush em- 
broidered car. Perhaps every nation, even almost 
every individual, goes through a rococo period, 
if only in thought, as all pass through a Greek 
period. It is a pity that the latter cannot al- 
ways dominate. 

The word "rococo" comes from "roche" and 
"coquille", meaning "rock" and "shell". The 
ornamental work in the architecture of the time 
emulating a combination of shell and rock. The 
costumes had changed from the sobriety and severe 
richness of the mediaeval burghers, merchants, 
artisans and dames, to dainty silks, lace ruffles, 
paint, powder, patches and white wigs. 

Nevertheless to this period of frivolity do we 
owe the first absolute birth of modern music. 
Against this new dresden - china like phase a 
strong revulsion had to come. For Bavarians at 
heart are in deep and serious earnest, possessing 
"in their literary and artistic natures not only 
a love of exact knowledge, but also a love of 
vast horizons, an insatiable curiosity as to the 
"whence" and "whither" of all things: the sense 
of mystery and the immensity of the universe." 



BAVARIA BECOMES A KINGDOM 153 

From the same land whence had sprung the 
flippant atmosphere of rococoism came another 
impelling voice ; the voice of Jean Jacques Rousseau. 
The adoration of French superficiality began to 
fade. Outward pomp, the inner hypocrisy of the 
churches and all absorbing militarism rose and 
fell and rose again. But brains of enormous depth 
and genius manifested themselves. Lessing, Kant, 
Schlegel, Winckelmann, Goethe, Schiller, Fichte, 
Hegel, Herder and the Bavarian Richter all swelled 
the onward -moving throng. It was a period of 
storm and stress indeed, and Bavaria marched 
with the foremost into the light. Change, growth, 
developement and the violent assertions of indi- 
vidualism were all at work in her artistic soul. 
She was clamoring for a more complete form of 
expression. The Seven Years War from 1756 1763 
again plunged her into another period of retar- 
dation, but from this she was soon resuscitated. 

Her fight was a hard one, for during the en- 
tire struggle for the independence and freedom 
of Germany, Bavaria was again constantly the 
scene of battles, marching armies, and in the 
possession of the French. This accounts for the 
French atmosphere which for so long influenced 
her. From the time of her ascendency to the 
rank of a Kingdom she has steadily developed 
toward, not only a calm and onward-moving 
prosperity, but artistically has again come to the 
front rank of European nations. 

Her capital has become a centre for the culti- 
vation of painting, music, literature and sciences, 



154 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

her cities famous for their beauty of architecture 
and the preservation of ancient atmospheres. 

In 1808 the Academy of Fine Arts was founded, 
and Frauenhofer, the celebrated optician, Reichen- 
bach, Liebig (the famous Chemist, whose statue 
is in the Maximilian Platz), Utzenschneider, Westen- 
rieder, Franz von Baader, Sailer and Schlegel, all 
added their vast knowledge to the developement 
of Bavarian culture. Her Residence Theatre (built 
during the reign of Ferdinand Marie, in the 
Rococo style by Frangois Cuvilles), the Hof 
Theatre (built under Maximilian I. and rebuilt 
after a severe fire in 1825 by Klenze), and the 
beautiful Prince-Regenten (built under the auspices 
of the present Prince-Regent), all tend to sustain 
at the highest standard the great operas and music 
of the world. 

In painting, Bavaria has been the chief pioneer 
and medium for another changing movement. 
The three most striking personalities in this im- 
portant revival being Cornelius, Marx and Kaul- 
bach, whose names will be well known to all 
students of Munich art. 

Kaulbach's works are monumental and will 
be handed on to future generations as the highest 
product- of the Renaissance of the arts in modern 
Germany; that great wave which resuscitated 
the slumbering genius of painting in the art- 
souls of Europe, and to which we owe so in- 
finitely much. 

Whatever our personal opinion of Kaulbach's 
work may be, we cannot but help realising that 



KAULBACH 155 

he was one of the most necessary leaders of 
modern art in Germany, as were Maddox Brown, 
Burne Jones and Rossetti of the Pre-Raphaelite 
movement in England. 

Kaulbach helped Cornelius with the enormous 
frescoes of the Glyptothek. Later he was made 
director of the Bavarian Academy, when Cornelius 
left. The present director is Karl Mahr. 

The above mentioned movement in which Kaul- 
bach played such an important part was one of 
the most singular of art manifestations. He had, 
like all great art-souls, absorbed freely from other 
lands and schools, and tried hard to be both 
Grecian and Italian, but the blood of Holbein, 
Diirer, and Martin Schongauer ran too strongly 
in his artistic veins, and he remained at root 
essentially South-German. 

The most important of his works are to be 
seen in the Hofgarten Arcade and on the walls 
of the New Pinakothek. He illustrated a Shake- 
speare Gallery, and a Goethe folio -edition of the 
Gospels. His most remarkable works are pro- 
bably "The Destruction of Jerusalem", "The Tower 
of Babel", "The Age of Homer", "The Crusades 
and The Reformation" (symbolising a Cyclus or 
Series), "The sea Fight at Salamis" (painted for 
the Maximilianeum) and "The Battle of the Huns". 

All art students are familiar with the names 
of Lenbach, Stuck, Rottmann, Feuerbach and 
Bocklin, all of whose works can be seen in Munich 
either at the New Pinakothek or the Schack 
Gallery. 



156 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

That Bavaria will still continue to uphold and 
excell in her artistic greatness is well assured. 
The world's greatest singers, conductors, virtuosi 
and actors, all come to this meeting place of the 
arts; the orchestral concerts are hardly to be 
equalled in any other city in the world. Classi- 
cal, romantic and the modern psychological dramas 
are all remarkably produced. The Royal House 
of Wittelsbach still keep up with ardent enthusiasm 
their long famous reputation as patrons of art 
and music. The Prince-Regent is deeply beloved 
for his philanthropic encouragement of all artistic 
and charitable institutions, and for the continual 
help he extends to individual and struggling genius. 
The brilliant yearly Wagner Festival held in the 
Opera House named after him holds almost as 
important a place in artistic and musical annals 
as that of Bayreuth, and has added still more 
to the charms and fascinations of Munich, which 
has become one of the most delightful of all 
modern cities to sojourn in, exerting in its way 
as much, if not more than Paris, a permanent 
and controlling affection. 



V. 



Admit that the people of the Middle Ages were ill-lodged, 
that the houses were ill-built, undrained, with the gutter 
water splashing the threshold, and the eaves of the opposite 
houses so near that the sun could not penetrate into the 
street. All this may have been so, but around two-thirds 
of the town were gardens and fields, the neighbouring streets 
were full of painted shrines, metal lamps, gargoyles, pinnac- 
les, balconies of hand forged iron or hand carved stone, 
solid doors, bronzed gates, richly colored frescoes, and the 
eyes and the heart of the dwellers in them had the where- 
withall to feed on pleasures, not to speak of the constant 
stream of many colored costumes, and of varied pageant 
procession which was forever passing thro' them. Then in 
niches there were beautiful carved bridges, and there where 
towers, spires, cremulated walls and the sculptured fronts of 
houses, churches and monasteries. And close at hand was 
the freshness and greeness of wood and meadow, the fresh- 
ness of the unsullied country. Think only what that meant! 
no miles on miles of dreary suburban waste to travel, no 
pert, aggressive modern villas to make day hateful, no under- 
ground railway stations or subways; no hissing steam, no 
grinding and shrieking cable trains; no hell factory smoke, 
and jerry builders lath and plaster, no glaring geometrical 
flower-beds. But the natural country running like a happy 
child laden with flowers right up to the walls of the town." 

Ouida. 



THE CITIES AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS 159 



BAVARIA'S 
CHIEF CITIES AND CHARACTERISTICS. 

The most dominant characteristic which im- 
presses itself on the traveller in Bavaria, is the 
intense spirit of devotion which immediately 
manifests itself as one leaves Prussia, Baden and 
Wurttemberg and draws within her borders. A 
perceptible change becomes apparent in the atmo- 
sphere. Out of the landscape, the first thing which 
rises up to greet one, as one approaches village 
or town, is the spire of some church or cathedral. 
The houses always nestle round the protecting 
walls of some ancient, monastic retreat. In 
the fields, as one speeds past them, rise up 
white stone crosses, slender ones of wood, and 
little shrines for prayer. Stations of the Cross 
climb up the hills to church or chapel. The 
spirit of religion seems the very breath of life, 
not merely an adjunct for certain days. At sun- 
set or sunrise in the verdant, quiet and sweetly 
smelling fields, the labourer stops to rest and 
pray in the miniature chapel. The Saints Days 
are full of processions, and all the houses are 
adorned with niches over the door lintels to hold 
some figure of Saint or Madonna. 

In the eating rooms of country inns and taverns 



160 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

hang large crucifixes or religious pictures. Day 
and night, over the old town gates, lamps before 
the Virgin are ever burning. The churches are 
munificently kept up, and in the smallest towns 
we find a magnificent old pile, rising up above 
the little brown-roofed cottages. The swallows 
fly in and out, building their nests in the heads 
of some little rococo angel, or in the mitre of 
some Bishop or Saint. On All Soul's Day the 
cemeteries are crowded, in villages, towns and 
cities, with the families of the departed, who 
spend all day by the graves, decorating them 
with wreaths and flowers, and at night illumi- 
nating them with lanterns and candles. In the 
small villages the early morning air is filled with 
a monotonous chant of mingled voices; old men 
and maidens, young men and women, walking 
two by two, with bent head and clasped hands, 
in lengthy procession, a robed priest leading, with 
little lace-and-scarlet-clad choir boys, the Cross 
held aloft, bent on some mission of prayer to a 
distant shrine, for the succour of some soul, or 
some martyred Saint. 

The initiation services of young priests are 
fraught with many ancient customs and sym- 
bolical rights, such as the marrying of a little 
maiden to the young priest, at his holding of the 
First Communion and departure from the world. 
For eternity she is to be his spiritual bride, he 
her protector, by prayer and seclusion, for life. 
The Bavarians are very conservative, clinging to 
old ways, customs and dress. In some districts 



CHARACTERISTICS l6l 

the costumes are intensely picturesque ; the broad 
brimmed hat, high leather boots and silver buttons 
everywhere to be seen, or the charming grey and 
green costume of the mountain districts. That 
simplicity is inherent in the Bavarian folk is 
very evident in their unsophisticated acceptance 
of old myths and legends to this day as truisms. 
For instance, on Walpurgis Night, there is still 
to be observed in certain parts of the more remote 
districts, the custom of driving out witches or 
evil spirits. The young fellows of the village 
assemble after sunset on some height, especially 
at a crossroad, and crack whips with all their 
strength for a while in unison. This, so they 
firmly believe, drives away the witches; for so 
far as the sound of the whip is heard, these 
maleficent beings can do no harm.* 

In some places, while the young fellows are 
cracking their whips, the herdsmen wind their 
horns, and these long drawn notes, heard far off, 
vibrating through the silence of the night, are 
believed to be very effectual for banishing the 
evil spirits. In temperament, the Bavarians re- 
semble more the Austrians, being more open 
hearted and buoyant of nature than their more 
Northern brothers. They are spontaneous, cheer- 
ful, effervescent, and intensly artistic loving, yet 
inclined to be credulous and superstitious, and 
the lower classes are comparatively ruled in both 
ecclesiastical and political views by their superiors. 



* The Golden Bough by J. G. Fraser. 

Norman, Bavarian History. 



162 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Of course, to this there are exceptions, and all 
over the country, socialists and independent think- 
ers are to be met with. Among the cultivated 
classes, a very marked independence of both 
thought and action has latterly manifested itself. 
The low German or Bavarian has a very noticeable 
dialect, which in mediaeval days, was called Platt 
Deutsch (that is, flat Dutch), the Highland Ger- 
man being called Hoch Deutsch (or High Dutch). 
The inhabitants of Holland are called Dutch, but 
they belong to the Low-German races, and have 
no exclusive right to the title. Luther, being born 
in upper Germany, and having translated the 
Bible into High German, is probably the reason 
why "Hoch Deutsch" is alone recognized as 
the literary and aristocratic language of the 
country.* 

"The present form of government is founded 
partly on long established usage and partly on 
a constitutional act passed in May, 1818, and 
modified by subsequent acts, especially one passed 
in 1848 after the abdication of Ludwig I. The 
monarchy is hereditary and the executive power 
vested in the King, whose person is considered 
inviolable. The responsibility resting, as it does 
in England, with the ministers. The Upper Parlia- 
ment, the Chamber of the Reichsrath, comprises 
the Princes of the Royal blood, two Archbishops, 
the Barons or heads of certain noble families and 
a Protestant and Catholic clergyman." 

* Baring Gould. 



CHARACTERISTICS 163 

The history of the mysterious cities of Southern 
Germany hangs around them with a melancholy 
severity, occasionally serene, always earnest, but 
seldom with that colourful radiance of hope, 
which one so promptly feels on crossing the 
borderland into the warmth of Italy. It is typi- 
cally the land of Diirer, of Cornelius, Hans Sachs 
and Wagner. And yet it is immensly progressive 
and full of an enthralling magnetic charm. In 
Munich, however, all the above is changed. The 
air there glistens and shimmers as no where else 
in Bavaria. It has little of that staid formalism, 
that rigid mediaevalism of the other cities. It were 
impossible to follow individually the history of 
the many Free Imperial cities which are now 
joined to Bavaria, or the stories of all her towns, 
castles, palaces, monasteries, lakes and villages. 
The civilization of these cities and their art, reaches 
back to a very distant period, as we have 
seen. The Thirty Years War and the discovery 
of the passage around the Cape being the two 
chief causes for their downfall. But the mona- 
steries mostly managed to maintain their prin- 
cely wealth and celebrity up to the nineteenth 
century. Although the Carolingian period saw 
the beginning of Ratisbon's importance, little that 
is of other import from that time has descended 
to Bavaria, excepting some fine specimens of the 
goldsmith's art and miniature painting. About 
the tenth century an unbroken chain of activity 
began to manifest itself in a number of important 
towns. From the tenth to the thirteenth cen- 



164 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

turies the art style most prevalent was the Ro- 
manesque, revealing itself in innumerable eccle- 
siastical buildings. It had been suggested by the 
Roman Basilica and attained its artistic height 
in Bavaria in the twelth century. Ratisbon is 
aglow with buildings of this style, the most remar- 
kable being the cathedral, the Ober Miinster, the 
Schottenkirche and Saint Emmeraus. But the 
most perfect example of the Romanesque archi- 
tecture is to be found in one of the most ancient 
cities of Germany, Bamberg ! This cathedral was 
founded by Henry II. in the year 1004 who also 
built the Bishopric of Bamberg. He and his wife 
Saint Kunigunde, are buried in the former. The 
Romanesque period of architecture was followed 
victoriously in Bavaria by the Gothic. The Frauen- 
kirche in Munich, the church at Landshut and 
the churches of Nuremberg, being very perfect 
examples. During this Gothic period sculpture 
and painting began in Bavarian cities to achieve 
their world-wide distinction. Tombstones in stone, 
altars in carved wood, fonts in metal, were the 
most followed branches of art. Wood carving 
was religiously carried on everywhere, in all the 
mountain districts, as well as in the towns and 
cities, the chief works being altars, choir-stalls 
and crucifixes. The carvings on the altars were 
usually painted, and most perfect specimens of 
the latter can be seen in the Museums at Munich 
and Nuremberg. 

Later the towns became transformed under 
another influence, that of the German "Renais- 



RENAISSANCE TOWNS 165 

sance". It breathed its influence, into every 
branch of art. St. Michael's Kirche in Munich, 
and the Castle and New Palace of Landshut show- 
ing very clearly the new tendency. As the riches 
and power of the Bavarian Dukes increased, their 
palaces gradually became transformed into homes 
of splendid magnificence. In almost every town 
and parish can be seen the vast sweep of this 
new influence, but Nuremberg and Rothenburg 
unquestionably stand at the head of all German 
Renaissance towns. The former, despite it's wide 
fame, perhaps less than the latter, for the in- 
vasions of modern thought and a devastating 
practicality have laid their disturbing touch on 
the ancient atmosphere. Rothenburg is probably 
the purest existing type of unadulterated German 
Renaissance beauty, revealing the consistent aim 
at inner harmony with exterior beauty. The gold- 
smith's work, the woodcarving inlaid with ivory, 
the metal panelling, brass utensils, coarse pottery, 
finely coloured, and much plastic ornament, lead- 
ing one outwardly as it were to the shell, the 
complete architecture of the enclosing form. In 
the seventeenth century the Italian style crept in 
to influence all the arts and we can see it's 
mark in the facades of the Nuremberg Rat- 
haus, and in the "Goldene Saal" of the Augs- 
burg Rathaus. Italian ideas were very dominant 
in the latter city, as she was in such vital 
and continuous intercourse with that country. 
The next art influence to manifest itself was the 
Baroque. 



166 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

MUNICH. 

The city which is of the greatest import to 
Bavaria now undoubtedly is Munich. Since the 
splendid energies of Ludwig I. and the enormous 
art inspiration spread through Cornelius, Kaul- 
bach and their followers, she has ranked among 
the foremost of European art centres. 

Not before the reign of Henry the Lion does 
she come into prominence. 

We first read of her as "Dorf Miinchen", where 
some warehouses stood, built by monks for the 
reception of salt which was brought from the 
mines of Reichenhalle and Salzburg. These monks 
belonged to the Schaftlarn or Tegernsee mona- 
stery, where they possessed a small farm or pro- 
duce dairy which was called "Miinchen". The 
word comes from the Latin Forum "ad monachos" 
or Muniha, and the present title of Munich or 
Miinchen comes from these same monkish pioneers. 
Henry the Lion built a wooden bridge over the 
Isar, founded a customs house and mint and 
started also a market, but it did not become the 
residence of the Bavarian Dukes until 1255, when 
Otto the Illustrious transfered his residence there, 
and his son Ludwig the Severe built the Old 
Palace, or Alte Veste. The latter it was who 
started the first brewery, drawing up himself the 
regulations for the brewers. 

Under these Wittelsbach princes the town be- 
gan to prosper. After a terrible fire in 1327 
Ludwig the Bavarian, who was born in the Alte 



MUNICH 167 

Veste, almost entirely rebuilt the city. He was 
deeply attached to his Bavarian capital and 
the people worshipped him. His tomb is in the 
Frauenkirche. Between 1550 and 1573 Duke 
Albrecht V. founded the library, the Kunst 
Kammer and the first collection for the National 
Museum. 

Elector Maximilian I. erected the Arsenal, the 
Alte Residenz and the Marien-Saule. Munich suf- 
fered a severe retardation in 1631 when Gustavus 
Adolphus made it his head-quarters on his de- 
vastating journey through Bavaria. But like all 
the other cities she slowly resuscitated herself 
after the Thirty Years War, and under the rule 
of Ferdinand Maria began the building of the 
Rococo works of architecture, in churches, palaces 
and houses. Munich contains two distinct atmo- 
spheres; the older part of the city still possessing 
an aroma of ancient days. The city was originally 
surrounded by a wall and ditch (but these were 
filled up in 1791), and one entered her precincts 
by castellated gates, many of which are still stand- 
ing. The beautiful old Sendlinger-Thor dates from 
the fourteenth century. The Isar-Thor and the 
Carls-Thor were built about 1315. The oldest 
parish church in Munich is St. Peters; originally 
it was a small Romanesque building, but was 
enlarged in the Gothic style in 1327. The Marien- 
Platz, although even there numerous new build- 
ings have sprung up, is still suggestive of the 
mediaeval life of the city ; the houses being built in 
the same quaint, attractive way, which appeals so to 



168 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

one in Nuremberg and Augsburg. Still can we 
see buildings, irregular both in size and form, 
oriel windows high up on some corner, high 
sloping roofs, punctured with scores of little win- 
dows in tiers. The fronts of these houses are 
often covered with frescoes, scroll-work or stucco 
patterns. The great market place with its Column 
of the Virgin, erected by Elector Maximilian in 
commemoration of his victory over Frederic of 
Austria and the end of the Plague, the old clock 
tower and Rathaus, first built in 1315, all Mil 
the eye with a picture of ancient beauty. 
In 1715 Max Josef III. founded the Academy, 
but it was Maximilian I., who began to add most 
to the improvement of modern Munich. He dis- 
solved a number of superfluous religious houses 
and erected new buildings. But all its modern 
magnificence dates from the accession of Lud- 
wig I. 

Munich, like any other city, can only be ab- 
sorbed by a visit with some reliable guide book. 
One notices on the pavements, as signs over inns, 
or as advertisement or crest, the Miinchener 
Kindel. It immediately attracts ones curiosity. 
The legend has passed through innumerable phases 
and changes. One story runs that our Saviour 
came down to bless the town and the furtherance 
of the good works of the monks, in the guise of 
a little child, robed in a monk's garment and 
hood. It probably was originally the seal of the 
monks, and through the centuries, under the 
hands of various artists, who carved, painted and 



MUNICH l6g 

chiselled the little figure, endeavouring to beautify 
it, it gradually became transformed to its present 
childlike aspect. The greatest contributors to the 
splendors of modern Munich in carrying out the 
ambitions of Ludwig I. were Schwanthaler, Klenze 
and Gartner. They are all buried in the Southern 
cemetery which is considered the finest and most 
artistic in Germany. Frauenhofer, the astronomer, 
Senef elder, the inventor of lithography, Neumann, 
the historian, and Franz von Hess the painter 
were also buried here. 

For the artist, the student, the seeker for rest, 
Munich will make a very definite appeal. Her 
broad streets, fountains, statues, deep wooded 
park, quaint customs, picture galleries, (containing 
almost the finest collection of old masters in 
the world), her galleries of sculpture, academies 
for the study of every branch of literature, science, 
or art, her beautiful little Residenz-Theater and 
magnificent Opera House, her concert halls, the 
great artists who flock to her centre every year, 
her standard in productions and plays, all seem 
to round out a life of complete artistic enjoyment. 
It is a city both to absorb, study and create in. 
Here Kaulbach the elder lived and worked and 
here now in his artistic home lives and works 
his famous son. Lenbach's exquisite home, so 
alive still with that great and suggestive persona- 
lity, the classical, remarkable home of Stuck, and 
on the hill above the river, the inspiringly poised 
Peace Monument, the wonderful Prinz-Regenten 
theatre for the production of Wagner's operas 



170 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

and classical dramas alone, all greet us with in- 
spiring hopes. 

Next to some of the galleries in Italy, the old 
and new Pinakotheks contain some of the finest 
pictures in the world. Next to Vienna and Ant- 
werp the former possesses the most exceptional 
collection of Rubens. Diirer (the greatest painter 
Germany has ever given birth to), Rembrandt, 
Van Dyck, Ruysdael, Van der Meer, Schongauer, 
Holbein and many masterpieces of the Flemish, 
early Cologne and Italian masters, all being 
excellently represented. In the New Pinakothek 
is an entrancing array of the works of Overbeck, 
Hess, Markart, Max, Piloty, Kaulbach (father and 
son), Defregger, Stuck, Lenbach, Bocklin, Rott- 
mann, Piglheim &c. 

Two very noticable pictures of the later modern 
school, are Stuck's "War", and "Die Siinde". 
But the gem, almost of all picture collections in 
Munich is that contained in the little Schack 
Gallery. One leaves Munich rich with memories, 
but perhaps the most treasured remembrance of 
all is that of the New National Museum on the 
Prinz-Regenten Strasse. 

No better evocative lesson for the resuscitating 
and absorbing of the arresting changes, through 
which this one small kingdom has passed, can 
be obtained than by a visit to this most wonder- 
ful of all European Museums. Each room is 
built so as to harmonize with the period of its 
contents. This alone was a labour of infinite art 
and all-embracing knowledge. 



THE BAVARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM I? I 

The exterior is of the German Renaissance 
style; within, all the objects are arranged in 
chronological order (as in the Glyptothek) from 
far prehistoric times, down through all the pass- 
ing centuries, and bearing all through a special 
reference to Bavaria. To dwell in each room for 
a while is to be impregnated with the past atmo- 
sphere and personality of barbaric, pagan, and 
mediaeval times. A very aroma seems to cling to 
the furniture and to emanate from the walls, 
hangings, relics and pictures; wordless oracles 
from the graceful mystic urns, which hide what 
secret of death or fragrance of life? The silent 
standing armoured figures are stern and ominous 
with blood and wars; the Roman floors are poli- 
shed with the passing of countless sandelled 
feet, now long ages at rest; the ancient altar 
receives no more ardent pagan prayer, no more 
ceremony in praise of Beauty ; the antique forge 
and tools lie impotent, and the Hun's Column 
rises up in impenetrable mystery and eternal 
secrecy. 

The arduously, delicately illuminated minia- 
tures and illustrations of full deep coloured mis- 
sals, reflect innumerable, concentrated, earnest 
faces, bent long years in devotion and labour of 
passionate love. All these ancient objects, these 
rooms, empty of the life which wrought them, 
which have witnessed so many births, deaths, 
scenes of love, lawlessness and cruelty, the hatch- 
ing of revolutions, the first appeals of new 
religions, the quiet inevitable progress of the arts, 



IJ2 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

changes of costumes, habits and manners, and heard 
the gradual evolution of speech and language, 
seem to be mourning with a burden of the past, 
hung with enwrapping folds of ancient gloom and 
grandeur, and of their own present impotency. 
Nevertheless, they mark a luminous road. They 
may be musty with an old and terror abiding 
memory of an unwieldy civilization, but as we 
pass downward through the centuries, we are 
more and more struck by the chastening, direct 
and potent influence of that "handmaid to Religion", 
Art. We can see man reaching upward and out- 
ward in steady throbs as if impelled by some 
gigantic cosmic machine. We see the progression 
of the abstract and eternal ideas sweeping aside 
the external and the temporal; crude forms and 
expressions crumbling away before the mounting, 
powerful, penetrating, persistent, delicate thoughts 
of the artistic soul; and as art heightened and 
rarified, nothing able to bar its onward sweeping 
power, the aspect of the cities, towns, villages, 
and life in the home, becomes distinctly different, 
moulded by the same inward beautifying power; 
all becoming as it were purified by flame and 
thought; simplified, the unnecessary rejected, 
the necessary applied. And so we leave behind 
with traversed room after room, the horrors 
of the past, wars, rapine, crimes of political 
and ecclesiastical corruption, holding only to 
those necessary, beautiful and illuminating 
things which must, from very virtue of their 
own necessity, exist. 



BAYREUTH 173 



BAYREUTH. 

"Little city of my habitation, to which I belong on 
this side of the grave, at the foot of the fircapped 
mountains" wrote that transcendental and sweet 
spirit, Jean Paul Richter, of Bayreuth where 
he spent so many years of his arduous and fruit- 
ful life. 

This "Festival Grail", which is a modern place 
of pilgrimage, is situated in "a fascinating circle 
of enchanting environment". Long stretches of 
tender, green and undulating meadows sur- 
round the town; then in the foreground loom 
the deep shadowed pine forests, their delicate 
spires pricking the blue of the heavens, and en- 
circling all are the picturesque fir-capped moun- 
tains. It is a spot of infinite peace, of calm undi- 
stracting joy, a place in which to concentrate 
the dream, and draw the scattered fancies into 
a glorious artistic bondage! 

"The word Baireuth means a piece of ground 
reclaimed or dug up by the Bavarians. Reut or 
Reuth being still made use of by the peasants to 
designate a spade or shovel, which is always to 
be seen hanging from the plough. Baireuth is 
the ancient mode of spelling and Bayreuth the 
modern."* 

It was not until 1881 that English or Americans 
heard much of Bayreuth, nevertheless it is fraught 
with a significant historical interest. It possesses 



* Thomas Carlyle. 



IJ4 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

the home of the present ruling house of Ger- 
many, Hohenzollern-Brandenburg ; also the princi- 
palities of Culmbach-Baireuth, together with the 
Upper portion of the Burggraf of Nuremberg, 
which in reality includes Nuremberg itself and 
Rothenburg. Originally it was a principality or 
a duchy like Salzburg ; appearing in the old deeds 
as a Margraviate, or small duchy, its ruler styled 
only Margrave, which led to much ill-feeling, 
discussion and bitter jealousy. 

In the year 1005 we first find mention of a 
Margrave ; one Count Berenger of Salzburg who had 
married a daughter of Margrave Hezilo (Duke of 
Bavaria). The latter gave his son-in-law a 
piece of territory as a wedding portion, called 
Bayreuth. Berenger tried to convert his pagan 
subjects to Christianity, and is credited we believe 
with being the founder of the town of Bayreuth. 
But there is no absolute proof of a town there 
until 1194. He disappears from the ancient 
Chronicles and for some time no other name of 
import comes into notice. Then we come to 
Berthold, a famous knight and crusader who later 
was created Duke of Meran by Frederick Barba- 
rossa. He died after a warlike life, in Bayreuth 
and was succeeded by his descendants, the last 
of whom, Duke Otto was murdered in 1281. His 
possessions were then snatched by his neighbour 
the Brandenburger Hohenzollern Burggraf Frede- 
rick of Nuremberg who managed to secure for 
himself Bayreuth and some adjacent territory, 
proving notable acquisitions to the Hohenzollern 



BAYREUTH 



family. These possessions increased as years went 
on until it became of large extent, including terri- 
tories under the names of Margravdom of Ans- 
bach, Bayreuth and Culmbach.* 

All in all there where twelve of these Hohen- 
zollern Margraves or Electors. John the Alchemist 
was the son of the second Elector, but he resigned 
in favor of his brother Frederick, accepting in 
lieu of the Electorship the better half of the 
Culmbach territory. He died in 1469. After his 
death his portion of Bayreuth passed to his brother 
Albert, who likewise inherited the Electorship of 
Brandenburg. He was the third Elector, and called 
in his day the "Achilles of Germany". Albert 
is the ancestor of all the Culmbach and Branden- 
burg Hohenzollerns. Until the iy th century Culm- 
bach was the capital of the little duchy, but 
about that time the Margrave Christian directed 
his thoughts towards Bayreuth and resolved to 
make it the Residence of all the future Margraves. 
In 1 60 1 however a terrible plague which was 
working havoc in Germany and especially in Ba- 
varia, swept through Bayreuth, to be followed by 
a devastating fire, both of which frustrated the 
plans of the Margrave, driving him and his Court 
back to Culmbach. In 1610 he returned again, 
determined to carry out his former plan, but 
again misfortune occurred, and the re-building 
of his town seemed a futile hope, for it was 
again reduced to ashes by another terrible fire! 



* Frances Gerard. 



Ij6 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Then followed the hopeless turmoil of the Thirty 
Years War, which threw not only gloom and 
death over the entire land, but killed all aspiring 
dreams. The next thirty years were for Bayreuth 
as well as for all other towns one long, weary 
repetition of seiges, battles, loss and degeneration, 
which we will pass over until we come to the 
Margraviate Frederick, who was ruling the Duchy 
in 1738. This Elector was the husband of the 
fascinating Wilhelmine, sister of Frederick the 
Great. Bayreuth had in the mean time slowly 
endeavoured to gather herself together, and under 
the impetus of this enthusiastic, talented, extra- 
vagant and charmingly irresponsible couple reached 
the highest zenith of her progression and beauty. 
This was between 1735 and 1759. The Court 
was put on an entirely new footing, assuming an 
almost supremely monarchical appearance. New 
and lovely buildings were erected, and the beauti- 
ful duchy with its verdant meadows, deep woods 
and distant far-stretching forests soon became 
one of the most brilliant capitals of Europe. 
Wilhelmine's father-in-law, the former Margrave 
had been a close, unenthusiastic, avaricious 
man, possessed of little mentality; but his 
son Frederick was full of a lavish generosity, 
cultured tastes, artistic ambitions, and exceedingly 
clever. He was an expert linguist, and more, of 
a winning and loveable disposition. He was adored 
by his subjects, whom he did all in his power 
to instruct and cultivate. The art fever was 
running an epidemical course all over Germany, 



FREDERICK AND WILHELMINE 



finding enthusiastic mediums in the luxurious 
loving princes. Frederick and his Margravine were 
much bitten by the prevailing building mania, 
and also with that of constantly improving their 
own tastes and those of their subjects. French 
and Italian architects, artists, painters, actors and 
singers were recruited to Baireuth, inundating 
the little court. The theatre was enlarged (it had 
originally been built by Frederick and Wilhelmine), 
and despite their undeniable extravagances, for 
which they were severely rebuked by Frederick 
the Great, the town, under their lavish rule, was 
much improved for both rich and poor alike. 
The old gatehouses were taken away and also 
the fortifications ; the moat was filled up and laid 
out in landscape gardens, which occupation was 
Wilhelmine's hobby. 

Frederick was so anxious to encourage building, 
and the improvement of the town architecturally, 
that he not only gave the ground, but immunity 
from taxes, for fifty years to whomsoever wished 
to build. Need one say that both Italian and 
French architects availed themselves of this extra- 
ordinary privilege to a great extent. In 1735 
Frederick presented his wife with the Eremitage, 
a sort of miniature Trianon, wherein she wrote 
her famous "Memoirs". Frederick never taxed 
the people of Bayreuth, but in order to pay 
his debts taxed the numerous French residents 
of the town. He died in 1763 and was sin- 
cerely mourned as a well beloved ruler who 
had done an infinite deal towards raising the 

Norman, Bavarian History. 12 



178 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

fortunes, entire worth and atmosphere of the 
little duchy. 

He was succeeded by Frederick Christian, a 
morose and gloomy man, who had for a number 
of years led an isolated and solitary life. Certain 
grave stories concerning the time when he had 
been governor of Neustadt had preceded him and 
his advent in Bayreuth cast a shadow over the 
town. He neither came with, nor was he received, 
with enthusiasm. Some years previously he had 
been confined, by order of Frederick, in the fortress 
of Plessenburg, and since then had led an excluded 
existence at Wandslech. The Bayreuthers feared 
that he might revenge himself on them for his 
imprisonment, but their anxiety was groundless. 
His one passion seemed to be economy, and his 
sole desire to cut down all expenses to the lowest 
possible fraction, to decrease the amount of debt 
and diminish the outgoings of the duchy. He 
promptly dismissed all the opera singers, reduced 
the expenses of the court, and abolished every 
unnecessary office. He was not popular, coming 
after the gay and buoyant Wilhelmine and her 
husband. He loved to listen to the lengthiest of 
sermons and to have innumerable prayers said 
for his soul. Despite his attributed avariciousness 
he gave large alms to the poor, evidently in an 
endeavour to wipe out the secret guilty stain 
which lay on his conscience. He died in 1769, 
and with him the line of Brandenburg- Kulmbach 
became extinct, the ducal principality of Bayreuth 
passing to the Margrave of Anspach. Wilhelmine's 



ALEXANDER AND LADY CRAVEN J79 

sister had married this Margrave and rumour had 
it that she was very unhappy with him. They 
had one son, Alexander, and as Wilhelmine's only 
child had been a girl, the former became Mar- 
grave of Bayreuth as well as Anspach. He had 
no children, but it was just about this time that 
Lady Craven came upon the scene. Alexander 
fell very much in love with her, and she took up 
her permanent abode in Bayreuth. In the mean- 
time Lord Craven died, and soon after, the poor 
little sickly and unhappy Margravine. Alexander 
promptly married Lady Craven, but they were 
very unpopular in their duchies, not only on 
account of the death of the Margravine, but be- 
cause of the letting out of the troops of the 
Duchy to fight for the English and the Dutch. 
Under the influence of his second wife, Alexander 
ran into all sorts of extravagances, and quarrelled 
with his foremost ministers. Later, in 1791 through 
the influence of his wife and the court at Berlin, 
he sold the duchies of Bayreuth, Brandenburg and 
Anspach to Prussia, receiving in return an an- 
nuity. They immediately left Bayreuth, fading in 
ignoble manner from the pages of history. For 
fifteen years Bayreuth remained in the possession 
of Prussia, and then came the conquering French. 
After Jena, the army of Napoleon took possession 
of the Margraviate, and by the treaty of Tilsit 
it was handed over definitely to him, becoming 
part of his great road from the Rhine to the 
Volga. 

Until 1809 Bayreuth remained a French depen- 



l8o A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

dency, suffering much from the ravages of the 
troops who committed excesses of every sort. 
Money was levied on it in a relentless manner, 
in conjunction with many another town, to 
keep up the enormous expenses of Napoleon's 
army. In 1899 it became, for the short space 
of six months, Austrian, but when Max Josef 
was elected King of Bavaria, Bayreuth and all 
her surroundings were given to him. On June 
13, 1810, Bavarian troops marched into the town 
which had endured so many changes, and now 
for ninety six years it has been a Bavarian 
province. 

Wagner had visited Bayreuth early in his youth, 
and had then been much impressed by its peace- 
ful beauty, which had also so appealed to the 
gentle soul of Richter. Wagner revisited Bayreuth 
in 1871 and was so enthusiastically received by 
both, municipality and administration, that he felt 
assured his hopes had at last found a resting 
place and that his great idea would meet with 
encouragement. Wahnfried, that "home of peace- 
ful fancies" was built, but his first years there 
were nevertheless beset with infinite difficulties, 
hardships and struggles. Bayreuth now is a sun- 
centre, radiating over the entire civilized globe, 
the inspired music of this luminous genius. In 
choosing Bayreuth, for the spot on which to found 
his great Festival playhouse, Wagner fully rea- 
lized that concentration on the one idea was the 
surest and absolutely necessary foundation for 
success. People go to Bayreuth for the Wagner 



WAGNER AT BAYREUTH l8l 

Festival, not to be charmed with the attractions 
of some mediaeval town. The foundation stone 
for the theatre was laid on May 22, 1872, Wagner's 
fifty-ninth birthday. Among other notabilities, both 
Haeckel and Nietzsche were present. The building 
is on the top of a hill, commanding a wide and 
sweeping view. It was made from plans drawn 
solely by Wagner, and not by Semper, who designed 
the plans for the Munich house. Architecturally 
it resembles a Grecian Amphitheater, and holds 
one thousand, four hundred and fifty people. The 
interior is severely plain, with few decorations, no 
gilding or draperies, and no disturbing, glaring 
chandelier. The lights, which are all placed on 
the tops of pillars, are extinguished immediately 
the performance begins. The orchestra is invisible, 
buried in a "mystic abyss". Pilgrims journey to 
Bayreuth, concentrated on the one idea of be- 
coming absorbed in the elemental genius of a 
solitary man. It is probable that without the 
constant enthusiasm and aid of Ludwig II., Wag- 
ner's dream might have been still longer delayed ; 
as it was, he called the latter "the fellow creator 
of Bayreuth". At the great production of Parsifal 
in 1 88 1 Ludwig was not present. The darkness 
was beginning to enwrap him, but when he heard 
of Wagner's death, he was sorely stricken, ex- 
periencing probably the greatest loss and sincerest 
affection of his life. 



182 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 



NUREMBERG. 

"In spite of all ifs changes and in spite of all 
the disfigurements of modern industry, Nurem- 
berg is and will remain a mediaeval city; a city 
of history and legend and a city of the soul." 
Cecil Hadlam. 

There is a subtle charm about Nuremberg which 
can be found nowhere else in Germany. Its great 
age carries one back to those shadows of tradition 
where only silence greets us. We learn that it 
sprang up gradually from the midst of woods and 
marshes and that during the Migrations was sacked 
by the Huns, their king Attila probably passing 
through the little town, murdering and plundering. 
There is little proof, as in the more southern 
towns, of a Roman colonization, but later it was 
taken by Charlemagne and came under the rule 
of the Prankish kings. The first authentic mention 
of Nuremberg occurs in a document about 1050, 
which was called into existence by the founding 
of the castle. About this time a mint, custom- 
house and market were established. After the 
first persecution of the Jews, the entire town was 
burned down by them, but rebuilt in 1120. In 
1127 it endured a long seige: the Emperor Lothair 
took it from the Duke of Swabia and gave it to 
Henry the Proud of Bavaria about 1130, but in 
1138 it was re-united by Conrad III. to the German 
Empire and for the next three or four centuries 
belonged to the Hohenstaufens and was much 
favored by the Emperors. Gradually around the 
castle grew up the little winding streets and houses, 



NUREMBERG 183 



and a strange mixture of races, Germans, Franks 
and Sklavs, converged to its centre. Not only 
a special dialect was the result and the art of 
the future ages stamped propitiously by this in- 
flux of various nationalities, but an enormous 
business energy became prominent, the city soon 
becoming the centre of the vast trading processions 
between the Levant and Western Europe, and 
with Augsburg, the chief medium for the valuable 
products of Italy. Barbarossa often came to 
Nuremberg, adding to the castle and making it 
an Imperial stronghold. The progress of the city 
was greatly promoted by the privileges granted 
to it by this Emperor and in 1219 it received 
from Frederick II. the charter making it a free 
Imperial city, independent of allegiance to all but 
the Emperor. The years, from 1225 and onward, 
were a period of much lawlessness all over Ger- 
many, murder and violence being matters of every 
day occurrence. The power of the Princes was 
almost anarchic: the strength of the robber Barons 
a source of menace to everybody's safety. In 1259 
all the towns had to band together to protect 
themselves and their travelling merchants against 
these robber Knights who swooped down on them 
from their castles. 

The Government of Nuremberg was originally 
vested in the patrician families, but in 1344 they 
were expelled by the civic guild, only later to 
return and reap a greater control than ever. The 
office of Burggraf (originally a deputy-governor 
in the name of the Emperor) was first held by 



184 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Frederick I. (1218) of the Zollern family, under 
Henry IV. But these governors soon acquired 
independent power and in 1363 became Fiirstens or 
Princes. In 1226 Conradin, nephew of the ruling 
Duke of Bavaria, became Burgrave of Nuremberg, 
but he had to pledge his possessions in order to 
pay back a loan, and in 1269 Duke Ludwig and 
Henry of Bavaria took equal rights in Nuremberg. 
Nevertheless, it still continued to retain its in- 
dependent rights as a free city. There were con- 
stant discussions and fights between the Margraves 
and the citizens, but it did not materially inter- 
fere with the rapid growth and progress of the 
city. The Emperors constantly came and made 
it their headquarters on account of the good 
hunting in the surrounding forests, and it also 
attracted thousands of pilgrims, owing to the 
miracle-working relics of St. Sebald, which it 
possessed. As early as 1020 1080 pilgrims be- 
gan to flock to Nuremberg and this alone was 
enough to attract commerce and success. The 
story of this remarkable monk, St. Sebald, the 
son, in all probability, of some Danish, Irish or 
British Christian king, his early brilliant theo- 
logical career in Paris and his subsequent relin- 
quishment of all worldly goods, happiness, fame 
and comfort for the service of Christ, is fraught 
with much tender interest. He settled in the 
great forests outside of Nuremberg, performing 
miracles, healing the sick, fasting and praying. 
He was buried on the spot were St. Sebalds Church 
now stands, and his relics, of which innumerable 



NUREMBERG 185 



miracles are still recorded, lie in the beautiful 
shrine made by Vischer in 1507. 

In 1298 took place another awful massacre of 
the Jews all over Franconia. In 1340 Nuremberg 
entered into a treaty with Wiirzburg and Rothen- 
burg for the mutual protection of the Bavarian 
Dukes. In the wars of succession, at the time of 
Ludwig the Bavarian, the latter had taken his side. 
Under Maximilian of Bavaria in 1447 1491 Nurem- 
berg reached her greatest height of prosperity, 
where she comparatively remained for the next 
two centuries. She possessed at this time an 
independent domain and furnished 6000 fighting 
men to Maximilian's army. Her artisans worked in 
all sorts of metals ; there were smiths, cutlers, ar- 
mourers, casters in bronze, and gold and silver- 
smiths. Also sculptors, painters, engravers, mathe- 
maticians &c. In 1414 John Huss passed through 
Nuremberg on his daring reforming journey. 
Although given up to trade and merchandise, the 
Nurembergers were full of a deep religious enthu- 
siasm, and in 1453 eleven burghers went on a 
Crusade on hearing that Constantinople had been 
taken by the Turks. 

In 1494 there was another antagonistic move- 
ment against the unfortunate Jews, who had 
chiefly carried on the profession of medicine (the 
business of money-lending was carried on by the 
monasteries!), they were expelled and on pain of 
death forbidden to sleep even within the walls. 
At a later period the gates were even closed upon 
the Protestant weavers exiled from France and 



186 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

Flanders, who, however, found an asylum in 
other German cities and by their skill and talent 
soon rendered themselves successful competitors 
to the prejudiced Nurembergers. The citizens of 
Nuremberg early adopted, with their neighbouring 
city Augsburg, the Reformed Faith, and clung to 
it for several years, no Romanist being allowed 
to hold property in the town. In 1518 Luther 
came to Nuremberg and we read that both Diirer 
and Hans Sachs were devoted admirers and ardent 
upholders of his. In the famous conflict between 
Wallenstein and Gustavus Adolphus, Nuremberg 
took the part of the latter. This awful siege 
drained the city of all its wealth and plunged it 
into debt, exhausting it in every way, and this 
period of the Thirty Years War inflicted a calami- 
tous and seriously permanent blow to the city. 
Down to the peace of Pressburg, Nuremberg pos- 
sessed a constitution of its own, but in 1805 it 
was taken possession of by the French, and to 
this period belongs the cruel execution by order 
of Napoleon, of John Palm, the Bookseller. In 
1806 Nuremberg ceased to be an independent city, 
and was given over to the newly established 
Bavarian Monarchy by the French Emperor. 



The oldest chronicler of Nuremberg was Ulman 
Stromer; he was also the first man to set up 
a paper mill. (1390 1407). 

A little later the great names of Wohlgemuth 
and his noble pupil Diirer began to adorn the 



NUREMBERG 187 



pages of her history (1435 1519). And now also 
began that lavish expenditure for the adornment of 
her person; such incidents for instance crop up 
to establish the proof of the Nurembergers great 
love for their city, as in 1447 the voting of five 
hundred florins for the gilding of the beautiful 
fountain in the Hauptmarktplatz. 

Diirer's personality, works and life, have occu- 
pied many students and the career of this gentle, 
devout, ardent and painstaking genius is well known. 
He was both painter, sculptor, engraver, mathe- 
matician and veritable northern Leonardo. 

1529 saw the name of Adam Krafft, the 
sculptor, appearing on the scroll. Between 1440 
and 1503 Veit Stoss lived, the best wood 
carver of his time and also a beautiful carver in 
stone, painter, engraver and mechanical architect. 
His most famous piece of woodcarving is the 
beautiful Nuremberg Madonna. A remarkable 
altarpiece and other exquisite works of his are 
to be seen in the Lorenz-Kirche. Nuremberg at 
this time was the incentive for many revealing 
practical necessities and remarkable inventions as 
well as for her artistic beauties. In 1380 cards 
were manufactured; in 1390 the first paper mill 
was built; in 1356 the first cannon balls were 
cast. Watches were made in an oval form, called 
the Nuremberg egg, by Peter Helbe, in the year 
1500. In 1517 the first gunlock was invented. 
In 1550 Erasmus Ebner discovered that particular 
alloy of metals, composing brass. Nuremberg also 
gave birth to Veit Hirschvogel and his three sons. 



188 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

famous as potters and glass painters, and also 
promulgators of the art of enamelling. In 1560 Hans 
Lobeinger invented the air gun, and in 1690 
Christopher Denner invented the clarionet. A few 
weeks after the birth of Diirer, in 1471, Johann 
Miiller came to Nuremberg. He was a great mathe- 
matical genius, and looked upon that city as the 
centre of Europe, the meeting place of art and 
industry. Diirer's book on Geometry was due to his 
influence, and also the beautiful chart he made 
of the heavens. Miiller also introduced popular 
scientific lectures and organized the manufacturing 
of nautical and astronomical instruments. Martin 
Behaim, that adventurous navigator and con- 
structor of the globe, was also his pupil. 

Nuremberg is very mediaeval in both atmo- 
sphere and appearance. It is surrounded by feu- 
dal walls and turrets, strengthened in more recent 
times by ramparts and bastions resembling the 
early Italian fortifications, these being enclosed 
by a wide ditch. Four principal arched gates, 
flanked by massive towers, are not only intensely 
interesting, but serve to complete a picture as of 
a coronet of antique towers encircling the city. 
One is immediately carried back to a remote age 
as one threads one's way through the irregular 
streets and examines the quaint, gable-faced houses, 
the churches and other monuments of religion, 
charity and art. All is singularly perfect having 
miraculously escaped the ravages and storms of 
wars, sieges and even the Reformation. The 
patrician citizens have homes like palaces. Many 



NUREMBERG l8g 



are still inhabited by families who trace their 
descent back to the cities earliest days. A number of 
the houses, though built in the fashion of the 1 5 th cen- 
tury, with narrow, highly ornamented fronts and 
acutely pointed gables, are very large, telling one 
poignantly of the luxury in which they lived at 
that period. The part in which the family lived 
was richly decorated with stucco and carving, 
and there is little wonder that Nuremberg acquired 
the name of the Gothic Athens. The Italian 
Cardinal, Eneas Silvio, who visited Germany in 
1459, in writing of the glories of the then resplen- 
dent German Empire, said, that "the kings of 
Scotland would be glad if they were housed as 
well as the moderately well-to-do burghers of 
Nuremberg, and that Augsburg is not surpassed 
in riches by any city in the world". All the 
cities at this time, but especially Nuremberg, 
cultivated music, each town having it's "master- 
singers" and musical guilds and on a Sunday 
afternoon the members would meet and give 
performances in the Town Hall or in churches. 
Prizes of philigree-wire, wreaths of silver and 
gold, were given for the best compositions. 
The first prize was a representation of David 
playing the harp, stamped on a golden slate. 
The last performance given in Nuremberg was 
in 1770. 

Nuremberg, at present may be said to be the 
second largest town in Bavaria, and the first in 
commercial importance. The best point of sur- 
veyance of the old town is from the burg or castle, 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 



picturesquely situated on the top of a rock on 
the north side of the town. This castle, dating 
back, in its present form, to the year 1151 is a 
store-house of interesting relics and shuddering 
moments for the imaginative and sensitive sight- 
seer. The collection of all those tortuous instru- 
ments, especially that of the "Iron Virgin", that 
climax-reaching of all degenerate horrors, gives 
one unpalatable glimpses into what the minds 
of the majority were like, in those mediaeval 
times, excepting when they were exalted by a de- 
votion to art or the gentleness bred by a true 
religious sentiment. We are infinitely thankful for 
their great heritage of artistic genius, but more than 
grateful that their times are remote, and to be 
resuscitated only by the divine gift of memory. 
That gift which can bring us, in an almost vivid 
nearness, to the purest and most soul entrancing 
days of Greece, Rome, Egypt and of mediae- 
val glory; which enables us through the inter- 
vening mists to see the luminious countenances 
of Homer, Plato, Dante, Leonardo, Angelo and 
Diirer; and again are we initiated into the eternal 
secret whisperings, which bespeak, that in Beauty 
lies the greatest and only permanent strength, 
the solitary power which alone is lasting, which 
never dies, but ever repeats itself in all times and 
climes. "The Beautiful is higher than the Good. 
The Beautiful includes in it the Good." 

In all the beautiful Gothic churches of Nurem- 
berg are to be seen innumerable examples of the 
noble artists of her great art-cycle. In the awe- 



NUREMBERG 



some and mighty edifice of St. Lawrence are 
miracles of carving by Adam Krafft; the most 
noticeable perhaps being a receptacle in the form 
of a Gothic spire, sixty five feet in height. There 
is also a beautiful piece by Veit Stoss represent- 
ing the Salutation. One of the most precious art 
treasures in the entire rich land of Germany is 
in the equally magnificent church of St. Sebalds. 
It is an enormous bronze sarcophagus and canopy, 
adorned with many statues and reliefs, the master- 
piece of Peter Vischer. This glorious monument 
took the incomparable artist fifteen years to 
accomplish, from 1506 1521. 

Everywhere are works of art, from the artistic 
decorations over doors and windows to the master- 
pieces of Diirer, Van Dyck, Wohlgemuth &c. 
Most of Diirer's works are sadly scattered from 
his native town, adorning the galleries of Munich, 
Vienna and Berlin. But his undying fame haloes 
the city, as the fame of the past glorious days 
of Greece halo her very name with a transcen- 
dental lustre. His statue, copied from the portrait 
by himself, stands in the Albrecht-Diirer-Platz. 
In his house are copies of his masterpieces, and 
a fascinating collection of antique and very typi- 
cal German furniture. The exquisite art of stain- 
ing glass is the curiously fitting occupation of 
the warder who guides the traveller over the 
ancient home of Diirer. 

Wood carving, glass staining, medal and me- 
dallion engraving, copying of the antique furni- 
ture and old cabinets and the world famous toy 



192 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

making, are only a few, but the most attractive 
of the occupations of the Nuremberger. Exquisite 
linen, superbly embroidered, and decorated with 
drawn work is to be found in abundance. In 
fact this work is a speciality of Bavaria's. In the 
spring, summer and also at Christmas time, pea- 
sant women come in from the mountain districts, 
with baskets full of dainty doilies, tablecloths, 
sheets and gowns, in the purest hand-woven linen, 
both coarse and fine, the former being the most 
beautiful. All is edged with heavy hand-made 
lace. 

The atmosphere of this fascinating city is hard 
to leave, the more one feeds on its rare and 
delicate charm. The narrow streets are lined with 
houses which lean towards each other in intimate 
and confiding manner. 

The windows are picturesque and prominent, 
and high up on the corners, balconies! jutt out in har- 
monious contrariness, and as one steps through 
the doorway into the mystic sancturary of some 
ancient house one finds oneself suddenly in an 
old world atmosphere of rich and legendary 
tapesteries, deft and suggestive wood-carving, and 
absorbing old prints. Doors, panelling, floors and 
ceilings, inlaid, carved and chiselled, and every- 
where brass, copper, iron and pewter utensils, 
to awaken envious longings in the heart of the 
collector. 

After a long day, when the brain and heart 
are full of new and lasting treasures and visions, 
one must wend one's way to the quaint little 



OBERAMMERGAU 193 

Bratwurst-Glocklein, and step over its high door- 
sill, to enter the minute room so dimly lit with 
many small windows, seat oneself at one of the 
little tables on one of the wooden benches, look 
into the burning charcoal furnace curling up over 
the bricks, watch the rosy-cheeked maids cooking 
the "wurstlein" and dream of the day behind 
one which has brought and taught one so much. 

OBERAMMERGAU. 

As one draws upward toward the little station 
of Oberammergau one is conscious of a peace 
descending, of an atmosphere as unusal as it is 
strange and elusive. The very air seems impreg- 
nated with a tender benediction; the atmosphere 
poignant with some great, omnipotent thought, 
possessed and held throughout the centuries. It 
is indeed a peaceful village into which one glides, 
leaving behind great ranges of mountains, enclos- 
ing one in a God-made circle of blue haze and 
distance ; an infinitely gentle picture which meets 
ones gaze. 

Not one of primitive grandeur or estatic love- 
liness, but one of simple, reflective and intro- 
spective beauty; one to inspire the thoughts to 
climb, to enable them to remain at ease at a 
certain elevation with a quiet joy and not to awe 
one into moods of tragic gloom, impossible specu- 
lation, or an almost uncontemplative passion, 
which the overpowering majesty of certain vistas 
is apt to do. On every side are verdant fields 

Norman, Bavarian History. 13 



194 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

which stretch away lovingly to wooded hills, and 
guarding all are stately mountains, shedding tender 
shadows, rolling away to greater and ever greater 
peaks. 

One is not suprised to see, running along the 
little station-platform, a beautiful youth in eager 
welcome, the marks of an ardent, healthy and 
devout nature on his brow; tanned cheeks, black 
hair flying long in the breeze and deep intelligent 
eyes. Immediately one is transplanted to another 
world; to a simpler, saner, freer, more natural 
and wholesome outlook, where the lies of a false 
civilization do not exist, where the beauties of 
nature are not sneered at and the ugly strenuous- 
ness of modern life forced in upon one as a 
virtue. Such a vision as this young boy, who 
might indeed have been the beloved disciple John, 
in all the beauty of his ideal young manhood, 
in our sophisticated cities, would call forth only 
censure and opposing adjectives. 

In Oberammergau one falls effortlessly into a 
new and longed-for mood of rest, feeling at last 
in a haven where life is lived as it should be; 
art loved as it should be; religion absorbed and 
existent in a universality of spirit; not as an 
acquisition nor even a part of one's life, but life 
itself. One's thoughts rise, and mentally one begins 
"to burn all that one used to worship and to 
worship all that one used to burn". 

These mountain folk do indeed "set their faces 
to the wind and throw their handful of seed on 
high". This inspiring ardour seems to invade 



OBERAMMERGAU Jp5 

the souls of all in the little hamlet; and not in 
fear, with tears, accusing consciences, or droning 
wearisome conventions, is this religious atmo- 
sphere attained, but in beauty, joy and enthusiasm. 
The first thing to attract one's gaze, even be- 
fore one catches a glimpse of the village, attract- 
ing the eyes upward, is a thing of mighty sym- 
bolical import. One of the peaks, detached as it 
were and isolated from the rest, rises up, narrow- 
ing at the summit to receive as its crown, a 
lofty simple cross. The elusive grandeur of this 
moment is a prayer, a song, a comforting caress. 
So high is it, that the pine trees cease to grow, 
and the summit is rocky with only low shrubs 
and bushes clinging to the ground, leaving all 
stencil-clear for the reception of the delicate spire. 
It points upward, year after year, like the eternal 
flame of the indomitable spirit, in sunshine, storm, 
snow and gloom. Even in natures blackest moods, 
though it become invisible, still is it there, the 
everlasting symbol of spirituality, aspiration and 
eternity. The cross of the Kofel, as the Ober- 
ammergauers call it, is faced with some shining 
metal which catches the sun, the wall of rock 
below changing colour with every mood of the 
day; now blue and green, now brown and purple, 
now dark and awesome with the reflection of 
some great inrolling cloud, now white and luminous, 
like the holy guardian of the Grail, in the moon- 
light! Wheresoever one may wander in this 
consecrated little spot one cannot, nor would not, 
escape this silent voice of uplifting sorrow. 

13* 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 



The little village is winding and of exceeding 
picturesqueness, the intrusion of several modern 
buildings unable to effect its sweetness of] atmo- 
sphere. The houses are of delicately coloured 
plaster, or sunburned to a deep velvety brown. 
Through the village, bordered at first on either 
side by cottages and later running out to fragrant 
flower-laden fields, is a clear, limpid, opalescent- 
hued stream, reflective also 'of the life of its 
hamlet and the clarity of its mission. It is a 
stream in which to look long and deeply; a 
stream to breed dreams of purity, of steadfast 
faith and musical art; a stream to cleanse and 
make innocent, to draw one into a mesh of end- 
less visions of eternal wonder. 

By its waters one feels new-born, re-awakened. 

The whole place is an enchantment, wherein 
everything is a symbol, from the lives of the, 
inhabitants to the great theatre which greets one 
on first drawing into the village. 

The theatre, which was built, in its present 
form in 1830, and improved in 1890, is a severely 
simple, solid and earnest looking structure. High 
over its entrance a clear white cross appears, to 
face the Calvary Group, marble- white on the 
green hill, and the great cross of the Kofel. 

All here work in unison; art, religion, the 
labourer of the fields, woodcarvers, builders and 
potters; all these sturdy, aesthetic peasants with 
their remarkable culture, refinement, unusual 
personal beauty, dramatic ideal and remoteness 
of position. 



OBERAMMERGAU 



Originally Oberammergau was a Celtic settle- 
ment and later in the time of the Romans a 
station on their military road from Verona to 
Augsburg. 

It was named by them "Ad Coveliacas" mean- 
ing the station at the Kofel. 

From the 9 th to the 12 th century it was in 
possession of the Welfs and one of their Dukes, 
Ethiko, built a castle and also founded a mona- 
stery there. It was in the year 1167 that the 
village of Oberammergau was transferee! to the 
Hohenstaufens, and exactly one hundred years 
later, to the House of Wittelsbach. It has always 
enjoyed a great amount of freedom, being granted 
many more rights and privileges than any other 
of the near lying villages. Under the rule of 
Ludwig the Bavarian (1330) it was allowed even 
more freedom, and immunity from serfdom. It 
was at this time that the above named Duke 
founded the famous old monastery of Ettal, near 
Oberammergau. From that time on, for a long 
period of years, the prosperity of the little town 
was assured. Not only did the Emperors, on their 
hunting expeditions pass through, but continous 
caravans of both German and Italian merchants; 
introducing the villagers not only to the progres- 
sion and culture of the outside world, but also 
giving them the impetus and encouragement for 
the carrying on of their wood-carving (combined 
with the possibility of selling it, and having it 
carried to other towns and countries). It was 
probably about this time that the Passion Play 



ig8 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

was first given, for in the 13* and 14 th centuries 
the various monasteries, especially in southern 
Germany and the Tyrol, were in the habit of 
giving both Miracle and Religious plays. It was 
in England originally, as far as can be gathered, 
that the first mystery plays were given and from 
thence they swiftly spread all over Christianised 
Europe. In Augsburg "moralities" were constantly 
performed from the year 1200 down to the time 
of Holbein. 

Commercialy and artisticallly Oberammergau 
continued to have a glorious prosperity until the 
breaking out of the terrible wars in the sixteenth 
century. Violent, wild and reckless armies of 
soldiers, passed ceaselessly through the heretofore 
peaceful hamlet, leaving behind poverty, famine 
and worst of all, the hopeless ravages of the 
plague. It was then the vow was made, that if 
only the plague might be taken from amongst 
them, they would, in thankfulness, give the Passion 
Play every ten years. Oberammergau never again 
attained the commercial importance which had 
been hers, but she nevertheless enjoyed a long 
period of happiness and peace until war again 
broke out at the beginning of the eighteenth 
century, when hordes of Austrians and Hungarians 
beseiged the valley, devastating all with their 
fierce breath of destructiveness. Then came the 
Austrian wars of Succession, and later the dis- 
asterous period of the French invasions. Famine 
again and innumerable losses were endured by 
the plucky little town, but at last peace has 



AUGSBURG igg 



settled once more within her borders by the sold- 
ing together of the German Empire in Peace and 
Unity. 

Wood-carving, apart from the enormous influx 
of thousands of strangers from all over the 
world to witness the Passion Play every ten years 
and the "David Play" every five (formerly the 
latter was given only every thirty years), is still 
the chief work of the peasant-artists. Their talent 
in this direction is full of a rare and most deli- 
cate perfection. Oberammergau, as early as the 
year mi introduced the art of wood-carving 
into Berchtesgarten, which points to the fact that 
she was the founder, or at least the original 
home of this art in Bavaria. Her sales-men used 
to travel out into the distant towns with their 
packs on their backs, achieving for their treasures 
a wide and enviable fame, and they now possess 
branches for the disposal of their beautiful art 
works at Liverpool, Bremen, Hamburg, Amster- 
dam, Groningen, Drontheim, Copenhagen, St. Peters- 
burg, Moscow, Lima and Cadiz. 

AUGSBURG. 

The very name brings up vivid dreams of 
ancient splendor, and the picture of that vast, 
endless sea of evolution, on artistic and progres- 
sive lines, which is comparable only to that 
of Italy's. 

Wiirzburg, Regensburg, Bamberg, Landshut, 
Ingolstadt, Bayreuth, Oberammergau; is it possible 



200 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

that all are contained in that one enchanting 
word, Bavaria ? And the sapphire lakes, enclosed 
by, or revealing, over wooded hills, the glistening 
snow peaks and chaste, wide glaciers, and those 
vast, deep forests written of by both Tacitus 
and Caesar, so impressive in their grandeur, 
only the soul of the observer and not the 
pen of the writer, can do justice to their mystic 
loveliness. 

From Munich it is an easy run to Augs- 
burg, which is virtually the capital of the circle 
of Swabia and Neuburg and the principle seat of 
South German commerce. The latter word brings 
a mundane clang with it, but one need have no 
fear that one is about to see something similar 
to the unattractive toils of an English or American 
commercial town; for Augsburg, sheds with the 
richest of Bavarian towns, an atmosphere of 
mediaeval charm, if not of such complete ar- 
tistic beauty. 

Its name is derived from the Roman Emperor 
Augustus, who on the conquest of Rhaetia by 
Drusus, established a Roman colony here and 
called it Augusta Vindelicorum. This was about 
the year 14. B. C. 

About the fifth century we read that the town 
was sacked by the Huns and later, came, with 
the rest of Bojuvarii, under the rule of the 
Prankish kings. In the war of Charlemagne 
against Duke Thassilo it was almost entirely 
destroyed. Later, after the division and disso- 
lution of the Empire, it fell into the hands of 



AUGSBURG 201 



the Dukes of Swabia. It gradually rose as a 
prosperous manufacturing town, becoming so 
noted for it's wealth and beauty that it was one 
of the chief points desired by the constantly 
attacking and avaricious Hungarians. (936 954.) 

In 1276 it was raised to the rank of a Free 
Imperial city, which position it retained, despite 
many internal changes in its constitution, until 
1806, when it was annexed to Bavaria by Napoleon. 
Augsburg reached its greatest height, both for 
prosperity and beauty, during the 15 th and i6 th 
centuries. Its merchants were literally citizen- 
princes, enjoying the most enormous individual 
wealth and power. 

Three daughters of Augsburg merchants mar- 
ried princes. The unfortunate Agnes Bernauer, 
(who was secretly married to Albrecht III.) and who 
was drowned in the Danube near Straubing by 
his father, Duke Ernest of Bavaria in 1435, the 
latter being so enraged at his son's supposed 
mesalliance. Then there was Clara von Detten 
who was married to Elector Frederick the Vic- 
torious of the Palatinate, and Philippina Welser 
to Arch-Duke Ferdinand of Austria. 

The famous Fugger family, the richest people 
of their century, were originally but poor weavers. 
Their house on the Maximilianstrasse, with its 
beautifully painted and frescoed front, is, to this 
day one of the most interesting houses to be 
seen in Augsburg. Curiously interesting too is 
the Fuggerei, a small quarter of Augsburg, foun- 
ded by Jacob Fugger "the Rich" in 1514. 



202 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

It consists of 1 06 charming little houses, 
like some ideal Morrisonian village, for the 
benefit of very poor Roman Catholic families. 
The miniature town with its spotless asphalt 
streets, two storied cottages, gaily colored little 
doors and flower-potted window-sills, and pumps 
of clear running water, is enclosed within its 
own gates. 

The Maximilianstrasse is exceptionally hand- 
some, broad and long. In the centre of the 
street, at harmonious distances, are three magni- 
ficent bronze fountains; one of Augustus, the 
founder of the city, and the other two of Hercules 
and Mercury. Another very beautiful statue is 
the "War Monument" in the Frohnhof, near 
the Cathedral. The latter is a remarkably beauti- 
ful Gothic edifice begun in 995 but altered con- 
siderably in 1321 1431. The most mediaeval 
looking street is the Jacobstrasse, which leads 
down from the Barfusserkirche to the Fuggerei. 
Near the latter stands the house where the elder 
Holbein lived and the younger Holbein was born. 
The Rathaus is one of the most remarkable of 
Renaissance buildings in Bavaria. The "Goldener 
Saal", said to be the finest of the numerous 
halls in Germany, is brilliantly decorated in 
the Italian rococo style, the exquisitely carved 
ceiling being hung from above by twenty-four 
chains. All the rooms in this especial Rathaus 
impress one by their extravagant wealth of 
decoration, splendid ancient stoves and treasures 
of every sort. - r : 



AUGSBURG 203 



St. Annakirche, the Fuggerhaus and St. Ulrics 
are all full of both beauty and historical interest. 
The Royal Picture Gallery which is situated in 
the old monastery of St. Catherines, contains some 
very fine works, but is chiefly notable for it's 
collection of the works of two Augsburg artists, 
Holbein and Burkmair. During the i6 th century 
Augsburg was the seat of many Diets held by 
Charles V. In 1530 the Protestant princes handed 
him, in the above mentioned Rathaus, the famous 
"Confession" (drawn up by Melanchthon of Nurem- 
berg). The article consisted of a reformed creed 
containing twenty-one articles in the name of 
the Evangelical states of Germany, which lucidly 
explained the doctrinal position of the Lutheran 
church ; a religious peace, of the greatest import 
to the religious welfare of Germany, was also 
concluded here in 1530. In 1632 the city was 
beseiged and captured by Gustavus Adolphus on 
his slaughtering journey through Bavaria, but 
after he was vanquished it returned again to its 
old inheritance. But the enormous trade and pro- 
sperity of Augsburg was for the time being completely 
ruined by the civil and religious strifes and the 
long, bloody wars which so racked Germany in 
the 15 th and i6 th centuries. In 1703 it was bom- 
barded by the Electoral princes of Bavaria and 
forced to pay a heavy contribution, later as we 
have seen, becoming absolutely Bavarian. 

In 1518 the first fire-engine ever used was in- 
vented in Augsburg. Between the years 1500 and 
1800 the gold and silversmiths guilds were every- 



204 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

where noted, even more so than those of Munich, 
or Nuremberg. For the seeker after these rare 
old pieces, or for antique brass, copper or pewter, 
Augsburg is a veritable treasure house. 

A beautiful portion of the old wall is still 
standing and some fine old gates. Along the 
canal, the houses are intensely picturesque, and 
down the winding, narrow and sloping roads from 
St. Annaskirche one comes across entrancing bits 
of mediaevalism. In 1703 the ancient fortifications 
were dismantled and laid out in public prome- 
nades. 

Many, many years ago the famous Mon- 
taigne wrote, declaring, that to him the wonder- 
ful old city of Augsburg was more beautiful even 
than Paris. 

REGENSBURG. 

The interesting city of Regensburg, which 
was ceded to Bavaria only in 1810, derives it's 
name from the river Regen on which it stands. 
The Celts, in the days when it was one of their 
settlements, used to call it Ratisbon, the Romans 
later naming it Castra Regina. It is in reality 
on the Danube, but the Regen flows into that 
mighty river just opposite to where the city was 
founded. It used to be the capital of the Romans 
in those parts, holding as it did such an advan- 
tageous position on the Danube. The narrow 
stone bridge, which connects the town with it's 
suburb, was thrown over in 1136. Later, after 



REGENSBURG 205 

the Roman power had waned, it became the seat 
of the Bavarian Dukes and the chief point of 
the East Prankish monarchy. It was one of the 
most important centres for the promulgation of 
Christianity, for in the 7 th century St. Emmerau 
founded the Abbey here and in the 8 th St. Boni- 
face the Bishopric. In the 13 th century it became 
a Free Imperial city, one of the most flourishing 
of all German towns and a favorite resort, like 
Nuremberg, of the Emperors. Of enormous im- 
port was the short, but vital hold, the spirit 
of the Reformation held here, and later of the 
counter-reformation inspired by the Jesuits. 

From Regensburg, cargo boats used to go down 
the Danube to the Black sea, with merchandise 
from the Western and Southern countries, bring- 
ing back in turn, treasures from the East as far 
off as China. Even in the remote days of the 
Crusades the Regensburg boatmen were famous, 
conveying down the broad waters of the river 
holy pilgrims and warriors on their way to the 
Holy Land. No less than seventeen sieges are 
recorded as having been endured by this city 
during the Thirty Years War, that fearful time 
from which we can nowhere escape in the history 
of Bavaria, almost completely ruining both the 
prosperity and beauty of the town. 
* The powerful but barbarous General Tilly met 
his death here, and the enormous cup which he 
is supposed to have emptied at one draught for 
a warlike wager, is still in existence, every year 
a celebration being held in memory of the event. 

* See Page 215. 



206 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

From 1663 to 1806 it was the seat of the Im- 
perial Diets, sixty-two of which were held within 
it's walls. 1806 saw the assignment of the town 
and bishopric to the Prince Primate Dalberg, by 
the Peace of Luneville. In 1809 it was stormed 
by Napoleon, the Austrians experiencing a fear- 
ful defeat beneath its walls, when the city itself 
was almost reduced to ashes. Nevertheless many 
of the old buildings remained mercifully untouched, 
some of which are much older even than those 
in Nuremberg. A curious and essentially charac- 
teristic feature of Regensburg are the towers 
attached to the houses, all loopholed, witnesses 
to a day when battle, danger and internal strife 
were of daily occurrence. 

The Golden Tower, attached to the Inn 
of the Golden Cross and the one adorned with 
paintings of David and Goliath, being the most 
notable. The Street of the Ambassadors (where all 
the Ambassadors of the German Diet used to 
reside), bears still over the doors many of their 
Coats of Arms. Of the purest Gothic style is the 
beautiful old Cathedral founded in 1273. It was 
not completed till 1634 and the towers are of a 
still later period ; one of the little interior chapels 
dates back to the 8 th century. 

An ancient Benedictine monastery of Irish 
monks, named "Scoti" used to stand on the spot 
where now rises the Schottenkirche, a Roman 
basilica of the 12 th century. The Golden Cross 
Inn is famous for being the meeting place of 
Barbara Blumenberger and Charles V. She was 



REGENSBURG 207 



the mother of Don John of Austria. Regensburg 
is full of magnificent pieces of architecture of 
every period. 

Not far from Regensburg, above Keilheim, on 
the heights of the Michaelsberg, the Befreiungs- 
halle or Hall of Liberation was erected in 1842 
by Ludwig I. It resembles a Roman Temple and 
contains, ranged within a circular-domed hall, 
statues in Carrara marble by Schwanthaler, and 
bronze shields made out of French cannon, on 
which are engraved the different victories gained 
by the Germans and the names of their leaders. 
The walls are lined with marble, the roof being 
supported by granite pillars. 

In his interesting little book of his trip 
down the Danube the noted American historian 
Mr. Bigelow writes, "the slabs bear the names of 
such as the King of Bavaria recognised as the 
liberators of the Fatherland. But we are struck 
by the names of many Austrian and South Ger- 
man mediocrities, and the absence of those who 
really did make their country free. Wellington 
is conspicious by his absence, so the noble Boyen 
and Liitzow. The man whose far-sighted legis- 
lation lifted Prussia from out the result of Jena, 

is not to be found here we mean Stern, 

nor his able successor Hardenberg. The poets, 
thinkers, the patriotic spirits that stirred the 
people to heroic actions, these were the ones who 
fought Katzbach and Leipzig, but they are not 
noticed on these slabs. Schiller and Korner, whose 
songs of liberty fired every German heart and 



208 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

who sent every schoolboy into the army. Arndt 
and Jahn, Uhland and Fichte .... names that 
in 1813 did more for the German success than 
a fresh army corps .... of these this Bavarian 

Mausoleum says nothing." 

An easy trip from Regensburg is to that magni- 
ficent and masterly construction of Klenze's, the 
Graeco-Doric Temple of Walhalla, a national 
monument built by Ludwig I. also as a temple 
of fame to Germany's greatest men. The temple, 
architecturally is the exact copy of the Parthenon. 
Walhalla means "Walhall or Hall of the Chosen". 
The glorious view from the platform extends over 
the level plain of Bavaria to the glistening snow 
peaks of the Alps in the south and to Straubing 
and up the majestic Danube to Regensburg in 
the East. Within are innumerable busts and 
statues of Germany's most famous men, heroes, 
musicians, statesmen, artists, poets, sages &c. 

ROTHENBURG. 

This gem like appendage, as it were, of Nurem- 
berg, is one gleaming mass of rich artistic trea- 
sures and innumerable historical detail. It is 
perhaps the least altered and the purest existing 
example of all mediaeval towns, and being more 
miniature and concentrated than Nuremberg is 
the easier to fully absorb. It rises before one's 
vision beautifully encircled by walls, moats and 
towers, rich in harmonious coloring and warmth 
of tone. The well preserved gabled houses are red- 



ROTHENBURG 



tiled and glow in the sun. As far back as 942 
Rothenburgs name appears in the ancient docu- 
ments, and for five-hundred and twenty-nine years 
it was a free city of the Empire like most of the Ba- 
varian, Franconian and Swabian cities. During the 
14 th and 15 th centuries it radiated the highest artistic 
standards in every branch of art and architecture 
and it's industries were similarly progressive. 
During the Reformation it's sympathies were 
entirely with Luther. In 1525 it experienced the 
disturbances of the uprisings of the peasants, 
taking part with them, and also suffered the in- 
evitable relapse and degeneration consequent on 
the Thirty Years War. During this period it was 
several times beseiged and taken by opposing 
parties. 

To the sojourner within it's enthralling crown 
of walls, it offers such a bewildering wealth 
of architectural beauty, that one scarce can 
recall another city which can vie with it in 
this direction. It's absolutely mediaeval streets, 
narrow, and winding, are more exquisite in an har- 
monious suggestiveness than even those of Nurem- 
berg. Gothic churches, Renaissance buildings 
(mostly of an ecclesiastical character), Rathaus, 
arches, gates, fountains, castle, all are in the 
most perfect state of preservation. The most 
fascinating piece of ancient beauty, where even 
on the rainiest days can be seen artists sketching 
and painting it's perfect outlines, is the old gate 
of the Altes Rathaus, with it's overhanging lantern; 
and the quaintest vista, that to be seen on look- 
Norman, Bavarian History. 14 



210 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

ing down toward the Plonlein. In the church of 
St. James are some very exquisite specimens 
of altar -carving by Tilman Riemenschneider, 
and in the church of the little village of Dett- 
wang, is also another fine example of this same 
artist's work. 

We cannot pretend to go satisfactorily into all 
the venerable towns which add to the interest 
and glory of Bavaria; each one possessing both 
a significant historical and artistic interest, which 
must be sought in a more complete and indivi- 
dual form. 

WttRZBURG and BAMBERG could alone fill 
a book with the vicissitudes of their deve- 
lopement, height attained, and wealth of ec- 
clesiastical buildings. The latter is built on a 
chain of hills, innumerable churches rising up to 
crown their summits in majestic outline; the 
former is situated in a vine-clad, verdant valley of 
the Main. From 741 down to 1803 Wiirzburg 
was governed by an unbroken chain of Bishops. 
The first was Burkardus who was consecrated by 
St. Boniface. As history has already told us these 
Bishops attained enormous power, and in 1120 
the Emperor Frederick created them Dukes of 
Franconia. The sceptre of these same princes 
often including the See of Bamberg. In 1803 it 
was incorporated with Bavaria. 

Then there are the towns of INGOLSTADT 
(now a mighty fortress, famous as having been the 
first home of the University founded by Ludwig 
the Rich in 1472 and beseiged by Gustavus 



WUNSIEDEL, FORTH AND CARLSTADT 211 

Adolphus in 1632 when Tilly lay mortally wounded 
within the city, and also of having the first establi- 
shed Jesuits college in Germany). 

WUNSIEDEL (the birthplace of Jean Paul 
Richter, and where, on certain dates, every few 
years, is given an intensely interesting festival 
drama, in the beautiful forest of the Luisenberg, 
in honor of the visit paid to the lovely little 
town by the much beloved Queen Luise). 

FORTH, meaning a fort (the rival manu- 
facturing town of Nuremberg, and the haven 
which sheltered the Jews when they were driven 
out of Nuremberg). The great progression of the 
town is due to their wonderful industry and 
talents. 

They possess a Hebrew printing establishment, 
a college, separate court of justice, many schools 
and a Synagogue. At the time of the epoch 
making battle between Gustavus and Wallenstein, 
the latter made this town his head quarters, 
putting up at the Griiner Baum in the street 
which takes it's name from this noted Swedish 
Emperor. CARLSTADT (founded by Charlemagne, 
and the birthplace of the reformer Rodenstein, 
the instigator of puritanical iconoclasm. 1543). 
HANAU (the home of the Flemish and Walloon 
peasants banished from the Netherlands 1597, 
the birthplace of the world-known and loved 
brothers Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm 1785 1863 
and 1786 1859. Near here Napoleon with 80,000 
men defeated the Bavarians and Austrians under 
Marshall Wrede with 40,000 men in 1813). 



212 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

ASCHAFFENBURG (belonging from 982 to the 
bishops of Mayence, and ceded to Bavaria in 
1814. In the old castle, erected in 1605, is a most 
remarkable collection of missals, engravings, 
prayerbooks, miniatures &c., and also an extremely 
valuable collection of paintings, including good 
examples of Ruysdael, Rembrandt, Rubens, 
Teniers, Angelica Kaufmann, Giordano, Cuyp and 
Cranach. Beyond the castle gardens stands the 
Pompeianum erected by the indefatigable Ludwig I. 
in 1824 in imitation of the Castor and Pollux 
at Pompeii, decorated with mosaic and mural 
paintings). 

AICH ACH (the cradle of the Wittelsbach House), 
KISS IN GEN, which is the most frequented water- 
cure place in Bavaria, was in 1866 the scene of a 
fierce combat between the Prussians and the Ba- 
varians, the latter under Prince Karl being defeated. 
In 1874 Go ben also attempted to assassinate Bis- 
marck here.) Freising, Donauworth, Lauingen (the 
birthplace of the most famous man of his cen- 
tury, Albertus Magnus). Voburg, Fiissen &c., all 
towns of quaint custom, interest and value to 
the kingdom to which so many of them only 
latterly have definitely belonged. Then the 
many lovely country districts, such as Berchtes- 
gaden which Ibsen so loved. Garmisch, Parten- 
kirchen &c. 

Bavaria is very rich in beautiful lakes, the 
most important being Starnberg lake, lake Con- 
stance, forty miles in length, and curious, apart 
from its immense beauty, in that its banks be- 



THE BAVARIAN LAKES ' 213 

long to five different states, Bavaria, Wurttem- 
berg, Baden, Switzerland and Austria. Lindau, 
the little island on the waters of the lake, be- 
longs to Bavaria. Tegernsee, Herrenchiemsee, 
which has three islands (the Herren-Insel on 
which formerly stood a monastery, and on whose 
site Ludwig II. erected his castle, the Kraut-Insel 
which used to be a vegetable garden for the 
monks and nuns, and the Frauen-Insel on which 
still stands a convent). 

The most beautiful lake in Germany is the 
Bavarian Konigsee, a small emerald lake through 
whose delicate green waters shine the rarest tints 
of sapphire -blue. The brittle -looking, mighty 
mountains pierce upwards from the very waters 
edge to a distance of 6500 feet, in a perpen- 
dicular glory, leaping heavenwards like ardent, 
aspiring prayers. In this soul exalting spot we 
will take leave of this marvelous and beautiful 
little country, for which one lifetime is all to 
short wherein to comprehend fully it's charms, 
influence, inestimable treasures, and the picture 
of a wonderful mental, spiritual and artistic pro- 
gression. 

To know her, nevertheless how imperfectly, is 
to love her. Through all her evolutions, wars, 
battles of belief and unbelief, times so terrible 
that we swiftly endeavour to wrap a heavy veil 
of unprejudiced leniency over the eyes, we have 
seen that at bottom a great Justice ruled her, 
a beautiful Destiny awaited her. And if we have 
seen that the path of her noblest and most artistic 



214 A BRIEF HISTORY OF BAVARIA 

souls has been one of martyrdom, they indivi- 
dually seldom seeing the fruit or result of their 
profound endeavours, let us remember that "to 
take from art it's martyrdom is to take from it 
it's glory. It might still reflect the passing modes 
of mankind, but it would cease to reflect the 
face of God". . 



NOTE. 

* After the book had gone to press, the incident about 
Tilly at Regensburg was discovered to be incorrect. The 
wager took place at Rothenburg and was between Tilly and 
the famous old burgomaster Nusch. It was the latter who 
saved the town and the lives of the council from the wrath 
of the harsh Tilly by drinking at one draught, so the 
legend runs, a flagon of thirty Bavarian quarts. 



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