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BULLETIN

Notional ^Bsociotion

WOOL MANUFACTURERS,

1 !) 1 1

FOUNDED NOV. 30, 1864.

Edited by Wintiikoi' L. Makvin, Secretary.

Volume XLI.

BOSTON, MASS
19 11.

rr jc

THE ROCKWELL AND CHURCHILL PRESS
BOSTON

CONTENTS

MARCH.

Page

I. Forty-sixth Annual Mkkting of thk National Asso-
ciation OF Wool Manufactuueus 1

Officers for 1911 2

Resolution Concerning ]\Iajor Charles A. Stott ... 3
Resolutions Approving Schedule K and Oftering Assist-
ance to Tariff Board 3

Resolutions in Honor of President William Whitman, 4

Address of President Whitman 4

Report of the Secretary 14

n. The Annual Banqukt 17

Address of President John P. Wood 18

Address of Charles H. Harding 22

Address of William INI. Wood 40

Address of flon. Francis E. Warren 45

Address of Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge 59

Address of Hon. Joseph G. Cannon 61

Address of Henry C Emery, Chairman of the Tariff

Board 65

HI. National Wool Growers Association; Forty-sev-
enth Annual Meeting 74

Tariff' Resolutions 75

Election of Officers 76

Letter of William Whitman 77

Letterof William M. Wood 80

Letter of A. D. Juilliard 83

Letter of Theodore Justice 85

Address of Joseph R. Grundy 88

IV. Hygroscopic Qualities of Wool. Statements of How-
ard Priestman and William 1). Hartshorne .... 108

Mr. Priestman's Article 108

Mr. Hartshorne's Paper (with illustrations) .... Ill

SWITl LIBRARY

iv CONTENTS.

Page

V. In Honor OF President Wood. Dinner in Philadelphia, 119

Addi-ess of Joseph R. Grundy 120

Address of Frederic S. Clark 121

Address of Hon. J. W. Fordney ........ 128

Address of William M. Wood 133

Address of ex-Governor Stuart 139

Address of President John P. Wood 141

Vr. Obituary :

Henry M. Steel (with portrait; frontispiece) .... 144

William R. Dupee '. . 145

Vn. Editorial and Industrial Miscellany 146

The Extra Session of Congress ; an Opportunity for

Early Attack by the Anti-Protectionist Party . . . 146
A New Dej^arture ; Meeting and Dinner of the National

Association at Washington 148

The Year in Bradford (The "Bradford Observer's"

Report) 150

Review of " On the Wool Track," C. E. W. Bean, by

Thomas O. Marvin 168

British Carpet Trade in 1910 172

VIII. Comparative Statement of Imports and Exports
OF Wool and Woolens, Twelve Months ending

December 31, 1909 and 1910 175

IX. Quarterly Report of the Boston Wool Market, 178

JUNE.

I. In Honor of William Whitman. Dinner at Hotel

Somerset, Boston 180

Address of President John P. Wood 184

Remarks of Hon. John D. Long, Toastmaster . . 186, 209
Letters from Hon. W. Murray Crane, Hon. J. H. Gal-
linger, Hon. E. N. Foss, Hon. A. J. Pothier, and Mr.

William M. Wood 189

Address of Dr. Richard C. Maclaurin 192

Address of Ji;dge William A. Day 195

Address of Hon. Samuel L. Powers 199

Address of Mr. George S. Smith, President, Boston

Chamber of Commerce 202

Address of Hon. John T. Cahill 204

Address of Mr. John Hopewell 207

Address of Mr. William Whitman 210

List of Participants 225

CONTENTS. V

Page

II. Schedule K. Protection of Wool and Woolen Manufac-
tures in the United States. By Julius Forstmann . 230

The Plea for Free Wool 231

American Wool Worth Protecting 234

Criticisms of Schedule K 237

Ad Valorem Duties Faulty 238

Schedule RevMsion Most Unwise 240

The Tariff and Business 241

An Important Word from (iermany 242

in. A Study of Kemps. True Nature of the Dead Fibers

(illustrated). By Howard Priestman 245

IV. Te.xtile Education Among tuk Pukitans. Wool and
Cotton Spinning and Weaving in Ancient Days. By

C. J. II. Woodbury, Sc.I) 265

Prosperity of the Puritan Colonists 266

The Piu-itan Purpose 268

Cotton at the Time of the Colony 270

English Restrictions upon Commerce in Cloth . . 274

Instruction in Spinning 276

Spinning Schools in Boston 284

V. Obituary :

A. Park Hammond (with poi'trait) 293

VI. Book Review :

" Textiles for Commercial and Other Schools." By

William H. Dooley 295

VII. EDlTOPtlAL .VND INDUSTRIAL MiSCELLANY 296

The Democi-atic Schedule K. By Winthrop L. Marvin, 296
Text of the Underwood Bill, with Estimate of Prol)-

able Income Therefrom 299

United States Census, 1909 — Preliminary Statements, 306

Woolen and Worsted Manufactures 307

Carpets and Rugs 316

Felt Goods 321

Shoddy Mills 323

The Felt Hat Manufacture 326

The Hosiery and Knit Goods Manufacture .... 330
Cost of Living in America and Europe. Comments of
the "London Times'" on the British Board of
Trade Report on " The Cost of Living in American

ToAvns" 336

Wages and Hours in England and America . . . 340, 341

Rents and Food Prices 342

Vi CONTENTS.

Page

Comparative Cost of Living 343

A Loophole in Recipi'ocity. Extract from a Speecla of

the Hon. Frank W. Mondell 344

Great Britain and Germany — A Contrast. (" Slieffiekl

Daily Telegraph ") 346

The Attack on the Wool Schedule (" Canadian Te.Ktile

Journal ") 347

The New Competition of Japan (" Men's Wear,"

London) 349

The English Shoddy Trade (" London Chronicle") . . 350

The Linen Industry of Europe 355

VIIL Quarterly Report of the Boston Wool Market

FOR January, February and March, 1911 . . 357

SEPTEMBER.

I. Wool and Woolens in Congress. A Review of Recent

Legislative Effort 361

The Report on the Underwood Bill 362

Report of the Tariff Board 372

The La Follette Substitute 378

The Smoot Substitute 381,385

Senator Smooths Argument 390

The Revised La Follette Schedule 397

Conference Committee's Report 401

The President's Veto Message 405

II. Statement Regarding Comparative Cost of Pro-

duction IN the United States and Europe. By

Julius Forstmann 414

Comparative Cost of Production 415

American and European Machinery 416

Higher Wages in the United States 419

Greater Efficiency in American Mills 420

Comparative Cost of Material 421

Free Wool would be Unwise 423

Schedule K not Prohibitive 429

What is Adequate Protection ? • 430

Tariff for Revenue, and Protective Taiiff 433

Value of Tariff Board ; German Methods 439

Comparative Cost of Labor, Machinery and Wages . 443

III. Obituary :

Colonel Albert Clarke (with portrait) 448

John Dobson 451

CONTENTS. Vll

Page

G. Otto Kunhardt 452

George Ilinchliffe 452

Moses Can- 453

IV. Editorial and Indcstuial Miscellany :

A Memorable Summer. The Tariff Contest in Congress, 454

Mr. Forstmann's Article 457

United States Census — Cotton; Hosiery and Knit

Goods ; Combined Textiles 459

The Conference at Work 470

An p]nglish View. Anticipated Benefits from Tariff

Revision 473

Wool Labor Statistics ; Hours of Labor 475

Textile Training. By Professor Roberts Beaumont . 476

Better Wool Packing. Action of Roubaix Congress . 482

Some Incidents in Early Australian History .... 485

Cotton Growing in Abyssinia 490

V. COMPAKATIVE STATEMENT OF ImpOKTS AND EXPORTS

OF Wool and Manufactures of Wool for the

Twelve Months Ending June 30, 1910 and 1911 , 492

VL Quarterly Report of the Boston Wool AL\rket

for April, May, and June, 1911 495

DECEMBER.

1. Annual Wool Review 499

Market Conditions 500

Reports from Wool Growing States 503

United States Census Report on Number of Sheep, 1910, 508

Number of Sheep, 1911 509

Wool Product, 1911 509

Value of the Clip 512

Fleece, Pulled and Scoured Wool, 1888-1911 .... 613

Available Supplies 515

Wool Produced, Imported, Exported, and Retained for

Consumption 516

Slaughter and Movement of Sheep 517

Com'se of Prices (with chart) 519

Statistical Tables, Imports of Wool and Wool Manu-
factures 521

The London Market 531

Liverpool Sales 536

Antwerp Auctions 537

Australian Wool and Sheep Statistics 538

Viii CONTENTS.

Page

Wool Production of South Africa 548

South American Wool Production 549

Number of Sheep in the World 554

The World's Wool Production . • . . 557

II. Canada an Example and Wakning. What Inadequate
Protection Has Done to Her Woolen Industry. By

Winthrop L. Marvin 559

HI. Obituary :

John Neilson Carpender (with porti'ait) 667

IV. Editorial and Industrial Miscellany 569

The Elections of 1911 569

Boston Wool Trade Association 572

Preparation of Wool for the Market (in South Africa).

By C. Mallinson 576

Blankets : Yorkshire and Other 585

United States Census, 1909, Sheep and Wool .... 591

English Rag and Shoddy Trade. By Consul B. F. Chase, 598
Comparative Wages in America and Europe ; Report of

the Committee on Labor of the National Association, 600

The Size of Factories, United States Census Report . 604

Textile Directories 607

Bushels of Weight and Bushels of Volume .... 607

V. Quarterly Report of the Boston Wool Market, 609

VI. Imports of Wool and Manufactures of Wool
Entered for Consumption, Years Ending June

30, 1910 AND 1911 612

BULLETIN

national Association of Mool ^lannfactnrrrs

A QUARTERLY MAGAZINE
Devoted to the Interests of the National Wool Inddstrt.

Vol. XLI.J BOSTON, MARCH, 1911. [No. I.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING

OF THE NATION.AL AS'^OCIATION OF WOOL MANUFAC-
TUKEUS, HKLl) AT WASHINGTON.

By a unanimous vote of the Executive Committee it was
determined to hold the forty-sixth annual meeting of the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers at Washington
this year, and to invite as s[)ecial guests those Senators and
Representatives whose States were most directly interested
in wool growing or wool manufacturing, so that the real truth
about this industry could be set forth to public men to whom
a knowledge of these facts was most important.

Accordingly the annual meeting of the Association was
called to order on the afternoon of February 1, 1911, at the
New Willard, Washington. William Whitman, President
of the Arlington Mills and President of the Association, who
was closing his long career of otiHcial service, was the pre-
siding ofificer. The call for the meeting was I'ead by the
Secretary, and the report of the Secretary was i)resented,
approved by the Association, and ordered to be printed in
the Bulletin. The report of the Treasurer followed. This
also was approved and ordered to be placed on file.

REPORT OF THE N(JMINATING COMMITTEE.

The Nominating Committee of the Association, composed
of Francis T. Maxwell, President of the Hockanum Com-
pany of Rockville, Conn.; Thomas Oakes, of Thomas Oakes
& Company of Bloomfield, N.J. ; H. A. Francis, Treasurer and

2 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

General Manager of the Pontoosuc Woolen Manufacturing
Company of Pittsfield, Mass. ; Charles W. Leonard, of Holden,
Leonard & Company of Boston; J. F. Maynard, President of
the Globe Woolen Company of Utica, N.Y. ; Franklin W.
Hobbs, Treasurer of the Arlington Mills of Boston, and
Joseph R. Grundy, of William H. Grundy & Company of
Bristol, Pa., presented its report through its Chairman,
Mr. Maxwell, embodying the list of officers for the ensuing
year, as follows :

OFFICERS FOR 1911.
President.
John P. Wood Philadelphia, Pa.

Vice-Presidents.

Charles H. Harding Philadelphia, Pa.

William M. Wood Boston, Mass.

Frederic S. Clark No. Billerica, Mass.

Secretary and Treasurer.
WiNTHROP L. Marvin Boston, Mass.

Executive Committee.

Andrew Adie Boston, Mass.

Chester A. Braman New York, N.Y.

Frederic C. Dumaine Boston, Mass.

Frederick C. Fletcher Boston, Mass.

H. A. Francis Pittsfield, Mass.

Louis B. Goodall Sanford, Me.

Edwin F. Greene Boston, Mass.

Joseph R. Grundy Philadelphia, Pa.

A. Park Hammond Rockville, Conn.

Franklin W. Hobbs Boston, Mass.

Geo. H. Hodgson Cleveland, Ohio.

John Hopewell Boston, Mass.

Ferdinand Kuhn Passaic, N.J.

Geo. E. Kunhardt Lawrence, Mass.

C. W. Leonard Boston, Mass.

J. R. MacColl Pawtucket, R.I.

Francis T. Maxwell Rockville, Conn.

J. F. Maynakd Utica, NY.

Joseph Metcalf Holyoke, Mass.

Thomas Oakes Bloomfleld, N.J.

William H. Sweatt Boston, Mass.

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEhrn^G. 6

On motion of Mr. Maxwell, the Secretary was instructed
to cast one ballot for the list of officers reported by the Nomi-
nating Committee. This was done, and President Whitman
declared that the gentlemen named in the report of the com-
mittee were duly elected officers of the Association for the
year 1911.

The Secretary read the draft of a resolution of regret on
the retirement from the Executive Committee of Major
Charles A. Stott, Treasurer of the Belvidere Woolen Manu-
facturing Company of Lowell, Mass., who resigns because of
disability. The resolution, which was unanimously adopted
on motion of John Hopewell, of L. C. Chase & Company of
Boston, was as follows:

Resolved, by the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, That
we regret the retirement of Major Charles A. Stott, of Lowell, Mass.,
from the Executive ('ommiltee of this Association, and that we record
our deep appreciation of his service to the Association, to the American
system of protection and to the promotion of the best interests of our
industry in the United States.

It was voted that the resolution should be entered upon
the records, and that a copy should be sent to Major Stott.

Charles H. Harding, Vice-President and Treasurer of the
Erben-Harding Company of Philadelphia, Pa., and senior
Vice-President of the Association, presented resolutions
declaring the attitude of the Association, as follows :

Resolved, by the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, That
we I'eaflirm oi\r belief in the American system of protection as the best
system alike for the manufactures, the agriculture and the commerce
of the United States.

Resolved, That we approve the underlying principles of Schedule K,
as embodying the best practicable results of many years of study by the
ablest economic students among the public men of America, and we
urge that no changes be attempted in that Schedule until the Tariflf
Board shall have made new, exact, and comprehensive information
available for the guidance of Congress and the country.

4 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

wool manufacturers of America that they make a prompt and frank
response to all inquiries of the Board, in furtherance of the most accu-
rate and complete understanding of the truth in regard to this great
national industry.

These resolutions were unanimously adopted on the motion
of Richard Campion of Philadelphia, and it was directed
that they should be entered on the records of the Association
and published in the Bulletin.

Frederic S. Clark, President of the Talbot Mills of North
Billerica, Mass., and a Vice-President of the Association,
offered resolutions relative to the notable work of the retir-
ing President, William Whitman. These resolutions were
adopted by a unanimous vote, with instructions to present a
copy, suitably engrossed, to Mr. Whitman, and to enter the
jesolutions on the records of the Association :

Resolved, by the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, That
accepting with great reluctance and regret the announced purpose of
Mr. William Whitman to retire from the Presidency of the Association,
we record our high regard for Mr. Whitman and our deep appreciation
of the extraordinary service which he has rendered to the Association
and the entire wool manufacturing industry of the United States.

Resolved, That for forty-one years an active member and for seven-
teen years President of this Association, Mr. Whitman has borne a
larger part than any other man of his time in making possible that
wonderful textile development by which the American people are now
independent of foreign supply for all clothing fabrics.

Resolved, That the broad, exact information, vigor, and incisiveness
with which Mr. Whitman for so many years has championed the cause
of the American wool manufacture and the great principles of the pro-
tective system have placed under enduring obligation to him, not only
American manufacturers and their operatives, but all patriotic citizens
who rejoice in the evolution of great national industries, essential to
the welfare of the country in both peace and war. Such leadership in
economic achievement is in the truest sense a national service of the
first importance.

ADDRESS OF PRESIDENT WHITMAN.

President Whitman then delivered his address as follows :

Our industry has experienced many vicissitudes since the out-
ing of our Association in the summer of 1908 in the historic

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 6

town of Marblehead on the beautiful shore of Massachusetts
Bay. At that time the industry was just recovering from the
disastrous panic of the preceding year. A presidential election
was impending, and an assault upon the tariff was threatened,
yet we were confident as to the result of the election and equally
confident that Congress would not enact laws inimical to our
industry. Our hopefulness and confidence were voiced by our
guest, the Honorable Carroll D. Wright, who soon after passed to
his final home where we hope that there is rest, no trade to vex,
and no mills, corporations, or railroads to denounce. Whether it
be true or not that rich men shall hardly enter that blessed abode,
Ave may be sure that those of them who do, unable to take their
riches with them, will be free from envy and detraction.

The dominant party, as expected, was continued in power.
After eight months of exhaustive preparation the Congress
enacted a new tariff law. This law conserves every American
industry. I was opposed to tariff revision. Yon will remember
that I stated in your behalf to the Ways and Means Committee :
" We have during the past five years believed that any gain that
might come to us under a new law would be more than offset by
the evils necessarily attending tariff agitation. Therefore, our
industry has not joined in any movement for increasing, reducing
or removing any duties in any industry." I believed that the
period of recovery from panic conditions was a most unfortunate
time for such revision.

BKST OF TARIFF LAWS.

As to the law which was passed, however, I wish to declare
with all the emphasis of which I am capable that in my judgment
it is the best tariff law that has ever been enacted. The great
leaders who successfully advocated the measure, and the Congress
that passed it should be proud of their handiwork. They are
entitled to the gratitude of the people for their patriotic labors.
Should this law remain in operation for a reasonable time its
bitterest enemies would become its firmest friends.

In its most important provisions the Payne-Aldrich law marks
a great step in advance of all the tariff laws which preceded it.
These provisions, however, are not well known to the public at
large. They are :

1. Improved methods for the valuation of foreign merchandise
to prevent fraud upon the revenue by undervaluations.

6 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

2 The establishment of a customs court to bring quickly to a
final settlement disputed cases between importers and the
Grovernment.

3. Maximum and minimum rates of duty. The maximum
rates to be applied only to imports from those nations which
should discriminate against the prodiicts of our country.

From a national point of view the value of these maximum
rates in our relations to foreign countries can hardly be over-
estimated. They have put an end to all discriminations against
our country by foreign nations and allayed the fears of many of
our own people who dreaded threatened loss of trade from such
countries. It was the assertion of a national prerogative becom-
ing the dignity of a great nation ; the announcement of a national
policy that was not to be governed by fear or threats of retalia-
tion. The stagnation in business and abnormally low prices of
commodities consequent upon the panic were followed by excep-
tional business activity and rapidly increasing prices while the
tariff bill was under discussion. Over-trading marked the period ;
new enterprises on a large scale were undertaken. There was a
mania for building upon the expectations of the future. Imports
were largely increased. It was too generally believed that the
country had fully recovered from the disastrous effects of the
panic.

This proved to be a mistake. The country had not returned
to normally healthy conditions. The reaction referred to was too
violent, and it would probably have been followed by another
period of less activity even had there been no tariff legislation.
This would have been only natural. The forces of nature are
always at work adjusting and readjusting natural conditions.
So in the business world there are laws or forces always at work
in the adjustment and readjustment of men's business relations
to each other, and the relations of the different industries or
occupations to each other. These involve ever-changing condi-
tions, not alone in our country, but in the whole business world,
independent of governmental laws or restrictions. Whatever
may be the occupation, the man engaged in it under such natural
conditions must "take his own risk." In the natural order of
things there would probably have been less activity in business
in 1910, following the exceptional activity of the latter half of
1908, and the year 1909.

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 7

THE HEAVY COST OF MISREPRESENTATION.

The extreme depression of last year, however, was mainly due
to wholesale denunciation of the tariff law, the fear of further
tariff revision and political unrest. The new act from the out-
set was violently assailed. It was denounced by its enemies and
" damned with faint praise " or apologized for by many of its
friends. The alleged high cost of living and advanced prices of
commodities from abnormally low prices were all wrongfully
attributed to it. Men cannot but honestly differ in opinions
regarding the problems of life. Such differences are entitled to
mutual consideration and respect.

" Error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free
to combat it." But the greater part of the attacks upon the
tariff had their origin in ignorance, envy, hatred, malice, and
selfishness. The demagogue played upon the worst passions of
men. The most objectionable of such attacks, and I think the
most demoralizing upon the public mind, were those made by a
class of newspapers and magazines upon the character and
motives of leading public men engaged in tariff legislation, and
upon others who by virtue of their official relations were con-
nected with the different industries affected by the tariff. Such
attacks where no opportunity for defence is possible, are
cowardly. Most of them are false.

It has been said :

" Tliat a lie which ii half a truth is
Ever the blackest of lies ;
That the lie which is all a lie may

Be met and fought outright;
But a lie which is part a truth is
A harder matter to fight."

A liar is usually a coward, and a coward is almost always a
liar. The code of honor among English-speaking people casts
out the coward and the liar. The Ananiases and Sapphiras
among recent sensational writers may not bring upon themselves
the summary punishment of their ancient prototypes, but they
cannot escape retribution.

LIFE "simple" and "STRENUOUS."

Society experiences many fads. These come and go like epi-
demic diseases of children. Not many years ago a leading

8 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

exponent and teacher of the " Simple Life " visited our country
and became the sensation of the hour. A minister of the
Gospel, a man of simple ways and moderate means, who lives in
a quiet neighborhood near my own home invited this teacher
to spend a few days at his house. To his surprise, the famous
exponent of the simple life arrived accompanied by a valet.
Upon retiring for the night, the minister saw the shoes of both
the teacher and valet placed outside their respective doors
to be cleaned. The worthy minister had been in the habit of
cleaning his own shoes and, being thus qualified, performed the
humble task of polishing the shoes of the simple life exponent
and also those of his valet. Experience, no doubt, taught him
that the simple life, as exemplified by the teacher, was not as
delightful in practice as it appeared beautiful in theory.

The teachings of this simple life did not spread very far or
last very long. There followed soon, and perhaps naturally, the
fad for the " Strenuous Life." Its inception was in high places.
I shall not attempt to describe it. Those only who survive realize
its strenuousness, and the thoughtful among them must consider
what has really been accomplished. The pathway of the years
is strewn with wrecks. The " Hysterical Life " was perhaps a
natural evolution from the " Strenuous Life." How can we
better characterize the nation's life of the past few years ? I
have already alluded to some of its unpleasant features. How
insensate have been the strife, bickerings, contentions, and
defamations as well as the social and political unrest of these
years. Hysteria, however, has spent itself. Reason is return-
ing. Soon it shall be truly said :

" The lie was dead and damned
And Truth stood up instead."

We are now returning to the natural life — the only healthy
life. While we laud all the efforts being made towards securing
international peace, we must not forget that internal commercial
peace should be paramount. Sectional commercial strife may
sow the seeds of disunion. Is commercial peace a dream ?
Surely it can be made a reality. What our country needs to-day
to " restore to rectitude the warped state of things " is an era of
rest and quietness. Those of us who are workers in the pro-
ductive industries, who are doing* our part in the real work of

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 9

life, would like freer and better opportunities for doing. We are
wearied and hampered not only by superfluous legislation, but
by the many demands upon our time and labors from local,
state, and national governmental bodies, for statistical and educa-
tional information regarding our business.

COMMISSIONS AND CONGRESS.

There are those who favor a permanent tariff commission for
the alleged purpose of taking the tariff out of politics. I regard
this as illusive. Congress will always be the final arbiter. So-
called scientific revision is equally illusive. I prefer trusting
Congress. " Too many cooks spoil the broth."

The Constitution vests the framing of revenue legislation in
the House of Representatives, and there the initiating of such
legislation must remain. There are able economists in the
United States, but many of the ablest and best informed men of
our day are always to be found upon the great Committees of
Ways and Means in the House and of Finance in the Senate.
Not only are these public men scholarly and sagacious, but they
have the inestimable advantage over closet philosophers of being
in close contact with actual affairs and thoroughly informed as to
the conditions and possibilities of American business.

American wool manufacturers do not dread honest and impar-
tial inquiry. Our industry has always been conspicuously will-
ing to furnish Congress and the country with all essential facts
that would be helpful in the formulating of a tariff, but we
believe that these facts can best be understood and weighed by
strong, practical men, familiar with the underlying principles of
political economy and familiar also with what has been done and
can be done by the great productive forces of American life —
men like those who have been found in the past and should be
found in the future controlling the work of Congress.

THE DEMOCRATIC OPPORTUNITY.

The tariff could be removed from party strife for many years
to come should the leaders of the Democratic party decide to do
it. It would seem to be wise, statesmanlike, and patriotic for
them either to permit the present law to remain in force, or to
frame a new law so wise and beneficent in its provisions that it
would conserve our industries and at the same time satisfy the

10 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

reasonable expectations of others. All the issues that divided
the two great political parties for the past fifty years Lave been
settled with the exception of the tariff.

What marvelous changes in industrial conditions have taken
place during that period, especially in the Southern States, and
what has been accomplished in these Southern States is only a
forerunner of the greater things to come. These changed indus-
trial conditions fully warrant a modificatioa of the Democratic
party's policy of the past. Why should it therefore adhere to a
traditional tariff policy, which, if carried into effect, will surely
end in early defeat ? Why should it not deal with present con-
ditions rather than with inherited theories ? If the great Cal-
houn could visit his native State to-day, he would be amazed and
at the same time gratified with its wonderful industrial advance-
ment under the very policy to which he was opposed. This may
be and probably is illusive, but no more so than the suggested
plans for preventing the tariff from becoming the football of
politics.

A GLANCE AHEAD.

There is every natural reason why our country should be
prosperous, tranquil and contented, above all other nations. The
earth has yielded to us bountiful harvests. We have all the
resources for the full employment of our people. Our national
finances are secure, and we are now at peace with all the world.
With all these blessings, there should not be discontent and
restlessness. On the contrary we should be grateful for what
has been given us, and take advantage of our opportunities.
The brooding sense of fear that has oppressed industrial activi-
ties should be dispelled. Let us not magnify possible future
evils, but take advantage of the present and hope for the best
for the future. Though condemnation has been our portion of
late, we may still be hopeful.

" The wretch condemned with life to part
Still, still on hope relies,
And every pang that rends the heart
Bids expectation rise."

AS TO " SPECIAL INTERESTS. "

In closing this my last address as an official to my associates,
I direct your attention to the fundamental error under which the
opponents of the so-called protected industries labor, and I am

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 11

now speaking of honest-minded opponents. The occasion will
not admit of an elaborate presentation. I can speak only upon
a few salient points in connection with our own manufacturing
industry. The tariff on woolen manufactures is alleged to be
" legislation for a special interest." We woolen manufacturers
are characterized as "tariff beneficiaries." Our industry is
classed as a " protected industry," and differentiated from other
industries which are classed as "unprotected industries."

Tliis error must be eradicated from the minds of men in high
places and their followers, before our true relations with the
great army of workers and upbuilders of our country can be
comprehended and appreciated. I believe elementary education
in this regard to be imperative. We are not tariff beneficiaries ;
we never have asked and never have been granted special legis-
lation for our interests. We never have been, we are not, we
would not be if we could, on the charity list of our country.
And as a corollary to this, that woolen manufacturers are favored
by legislation above others, whereby they acquire riches, receiv-
ing tribute fi-om those engaged in so-called non-protected indus-
tries, I assert that the so-called non-protected industries are the
only absolutely protected industries in our country. This is by
reason of geographical position. I also assert that the so-called
protected industries are only partially protected, and because of
this capital and labor in the latter are less remunerative than in
the former. The fundamental error of which I am speaking has
been so instilled into the public mind by doctrinaires and theo-
retical economists that it has become altogether too generally
accepted as truth. Because of the prominence of its teachers, it
is all the more dangerous.

FAIR PLAY ALL THAT IS ASKED.

It has been the policy of our country from its beginning to
develop its natural resources. The interdependence of our
national industries has been recognized. There have been no
limits to the field of our activities other than those created by
nature. Any industry in which a unit of labor will produce as
much in this country as in a foreign country has been considered
worth cultivating. The- greatest possible diversity of products
has been regarded as beneficial to the nation's welfare. Legisla-
tion to accomplish these objects must necessarily have a basic
principle. This principle is to impose such duties on certain

12 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

imported competing products of foreign labor as to prevent their
importation at a less price than they could be profitably manu-
factured for in our own country under the wages of labor and
other economic and social conditions which may prevail.

It has been the policy of our country so to legislate that such
industries as can be successfully carried on within our borders
shall be transferred from foreign countries to our own country.
This policy has resulted in making our country the largest manu-
facturing nation in the world. Our industry under this policy
has kept pace in development with others. It is an essential
part of the industrial equipment of the country. We especially
deprecate the assaults upon the textile industries. Legislation
that would cripple them or make them relatively less prosperous
than others would be class legislation for the alleged purpose of
favoring the interests of other and absolutely protected industries.

We ask no favors but we may demand as a right that the
woolen industry shall have equal opportunities with all other
industries. Those in other industries cannot reasonably expect
that those engaged in the woolen industry, only a partially pro-
tected industry, should have a special mission to furnish mate-
rials for their clothing without reasonable and proper profits, a
profit relative to that secured by other industries, however they
may be classed. The " Daily Consular and Trade Keports " of
January 26, 1911, just issued by the Bureau of Manufactures,
contained a table of " Wages in Germany," which I place before
you as an authoritative exhibit of the general scale of wages
against which we contend :

Wages in Germany.

{From Consul General Frank Dillingham, Coburg.)

The following statistics, showing the rates of wages paid in the

Duchy of Coburg, are supplementary to a report, covering the prices of

foodstuffs in the Duchy, published in the "Daily Consular and Trade

Reports" for November 23, 1910. The working day is 10 hours:

Class of Employees.

Bricklayers

Carpenters .

Painters . .

I'lumbers

Compositors

Horseshoers

Blacksmiths

Wages.

$1.07 to $1.19
.83 to .95
.83 to
1.00 to
.95 to
.76 to
.76 to

1.20

.83

Class of Employees.

Iron moulders

Pattern makers . . . .
Cotton weavers . . . .
Woolen weavers . . . .
Street laborers . . . .
Sewer workers . . . .
Kettlemen in breweries

$0.95

43 to 1.67

.64

.40 to .64

.59 to .71

.48

1.00

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEKTING. 13

Industrial Employees.

The following wages are paid to those employed in factories and
other industrial works, per week of 60 hours.

Porcelain factories : Boys, 9,5 cents to $1.43 ; men, $2 85 to $4.75 ;

girls, 85 cents to $1.56; women, $1.78 to $3.57.
Table china: Boys, $1.43; men, $4.16; girls, $1.43; women, $2 50.
DollsMieads: Boys, $2.14 to $2.85; men, $3.57 to $4.28; girls,

$1.43 to $2.15; women, $2 15 to $2.85.
Technical articles: Boys, $2.14 to $2.86; men, $3.57 to $4 ; men

modelers, $7.14 to $7 45; girls, $1.90 to $2 26 ; women, $2.87

to $3 57.
Figures, toys, and small novelties: Boys, $1.85; men, $4.28 to

$5.70; girls, $1 85; women. $2 43.
Glass industries : Boys, $2.14 to $2 86 ; men, $5.70 to $8.57 ; girls,

$1.29 to $1.43; women, $1.86 to $2 15; boy tube pullers, $4 76;

men tube pullers, $5.43 to $5.85; boy tube blowers, $8.33;

men tube blowers, $8.37 to $10.28 (tube blowers and pullers

64 hours per week) .
Wooden ware: Boys, $2.10; men, $4.67; girls, $1.83; women,

$3.10.

Boys and girls are those 16 years and under; all above 16 years are
classed as men and women.

I have not had opportunity to make full comparison of the.se
startlingly low wages with the wages ruling in the so-called
" unprotected " industries here, but I can speak with confidence
regarding the following wages :

Bricklayers in the Duchy of Coburg earn from 10 cents to 12
cents an hour; in eastern Massachusetts, about 60 cents an hour.
Carpenters in the Duchy of Coburg receive from Sy^^ to 9^ cents
an hour; in Massachusetts, 41 cents an hour. Painters in the
Duchy of Coburg are paid from 8^^^^ to Sy^^ cents an hour ; in
Massachusetts, from 35 to 37^ cents an hour. Plumbers in the
Duchy of Coburg receive from 10 to 12 cents an hour ; in Massa-
chusetts, 43f cents an hour, and in one locality I know of, as Itigh
as 5Q^ to 60 cents an hour. The wages of labor of all kinds and
in all countries will no doubt be thoroughly investigated by those
charged with the duty of making such an inquiry.

Of myself and ray work in connection with our Association it
is not necessary to speak, because it is on record. It has always

14 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

received your support. Whether this has been for good or ill^
the record cannot be changed, and my work must be judged by it.
In closing, it is a duty and a pleasure to acknowledge my grati-
tude for the friendships that have been formed, not only with
distinguished public men but with my fellow-manufacturers, dur-
ing the long years of close relation with the members of this
Association who have stood by me as I have labored, alike in
anxious years and in prosperous years, for the welfare of our
industry. The good will of one's associates is a great compen-
sation to any man, and more than offsets all the smarts of criti-
cism and misunderstanding. I shall always cherish with pride
and thankfulness the recollections of my work with you and the
loyalty and zeal of my comrades of the National Association of
Wool Manufacturers.

At the close of President Whitman's address he appointed
Mr. Maxwell and Mr. Hopewell to act as a committee to
escort to the chair the President-elect, John P. Wood, of
William Wood & Company of Philadelphia. Mr. Wood,
who was introduced by Mr. Hopewell, spoke a few words of
acknowledgment of the honor that had been conferred upon
him, and the meeting was then adjourned.

REPORT OF THE SECRETARY.

The report of the Secretary was as follows :

To THE Members of the National Association of Wool Manu-
facturers :

In obedience to the by-laws of the Association, the Secretary herewith
submits his report for the year ending with the last day of January,
1911.

The year just closing is one which goes without regret on the part of
the wool manufacturers of America. It has witnessed a long, severe
depression. Thei'e have been times during the past year when probably
one-half of the woolen machinery in the United States was idle. At
present perhaps a somewhat better condition prevails, but the existing
volume of production is altogether unsatisfactory and the outlook is
exceedingly uncertain.

There is one main cause for all this — and that is the persistent
political agitation of which the wool and woolen industry has been the
devoted target. During the year 1909, in the middle of which the

FORTY-SIXTH ANNTTAL MEETING. 15

Aldrich-Payne tariff was enacted, our industry as a wliole enjoyed a
fair degree of prosperity. But a sinister change came at the beginning
of the present year. Schedule K was singled out for particularly vicious
attack by widely read magazines and newspapers, encouraged by
interests opposed to the protective system. The National Association
of Wool Manufacturers has been able to meet and answer some of these
attacks, but many of these false and misleading statements have tlown
far afield, and have unquestionably created a deep prejudice against our
industry in the minds of a large portion of the American people. One
important work of the Association for the coming year must be to
devise means of grappling on a more comprehensive scale with the cam-
paigns of misrepresentation on the part of our adversaries, which have
reached every corner of the United States.

As a result of this hostile propaganda it is now understood that
Schedule K is to be selected for examination and revision downward by
the new House of Representatives, controlled by the anti-protection
party, which will assemble in Washington in December next. Nearly
a year remains in which the National Association of Wool Manufac-
turers, acting on behalf of the entire industry, will have a chance to tell
the truth about Schedule K to the country, which has heard that truth
so meanly and grotesquely distorted.

The political agitation against the wool and woolen duties has caused
the country to expect an immediate lowering of those duties and a con-
sequent reduction in the price of clothing because of large importa-
tions from abroad. This anticipation has hurt the trade of dry goods
and clothing merchants, and lessened their requirement of new fabrics
from the manufacturers. With the mills partly idle there has inevi-
tably been a weakened demand for raw wool, which has been reflected
throughout the year in lowered prices. Farmers, ranchmen, manufac-
turers, merchants, have alike been involved in the depression, and
in West and East we have received a striking revelation of the close
interdependence of the various branches of our common industry.

Though an effort will undoubtedly be made in the next Congress by
the leaders of the anti-protection majority in the House of Representa-
tives to reconstruct Schedule K, this cannot succeed without the co-
operation of the Senate and the President. It would be most unjust to
reduce the duties on wool and the manufactures of wool without making
a proportionate reduction in the duties on the indispensable supplies
and materials of the industry contained in other schedules of the tariff.
The plan of schedule-by-schedule revision, though earnestly favored
now by many sincere men, will have far fewer friends next year when
the process has been more searchingly considered.

But to fi'ame a hostile tariff bill is one thing and to secure its complete
enactment is another. In order to succeed, the anti-protection leaders
of the House must win the assent of the Senate, where the majority will

16 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

remain at least nominally protectionist. Inasmuch as all of the so-
called progressive Senators of the Middle West insisted on the main-
tenance of the present rates of duty on the raw wool of their constitu-
ents throughout the framing of the Aldrich-Payne law, it is impi'obable
that a majority can be secured in the Senate as it will be constituted in
December next for any tariff revision measure which radically reduces
the protection now given to either wool growei's or wool manufacturers.
The people of the West will be quick to understand that inadequate
protection to American mills and a consequent flood of imported goods
from Eui'ope would be as disastrous to the wool growing interest as if
wool were put on the free list. This is a fact which the National Asso-
ciation can profitably impress upon the consciousness of the whole
United States.

In a short time the results of the important inquiry undertaken last
year by this Association into the wool manufacturing industry in
America will be ready for publication. Most of the requisite material
is now in hand, and when this is propei'ly arranged and analyzed the
Association will be in the possession of more knowledge about the
industry than has ever before been made available. Requests for
reports have been addressed to nearly two thousand wool nianufac-
tuiing establishments, and practically all of the concerns of real con-
sequence have responded. The complete returns will be ready in
advance of the very full and ambitious reports of the Federal govern-
ment, and it is the purpose of the Association to revise the facts and
figures year by year, so that the very latest and most authentic infor-
mation can always be had as to the conditions of our industry.

The work of the new Committee on Undervaluations is proceeding
quietly and satisfactorily, and this undertaking has received hearty
approval fi'om the members of the Association. Recent developments
have proved the need of such a work. Undervaluations have been
practised on a large scale by importing houses, which, when called to
account, have confessed judgment and made some restitution to the
Government. But American manufacturers who were cheated of their
due protection have not been compensated, and our industry can have
fair play only by the rigid prevention of these practices, which war
alike against American industry and the national rt- venue.

The membership and resources of the Association have been consid-
erably increased during the past year, and the retiring President, after
his long and honorable service, has the satisfaction of leaving the
Association greater in strength and influence than ever before in its
history of almost half a century. Not only have the numbers and
activities of the Association grown, but there has been a manifest gain
in the personal interest of oflScers and members in the aftairs of the
Association and the great work which it has undertakt^n There is
every indication that the new year will witness a .steady development

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 17

along the same lines, and that the Association in the serious combat
now impending will win a widening recognition as the niain bulwark
of the wool manufacturing industiy of the United States.

The report would be incomplete without a word of gratitude for the
cordial support which the Secretary has received in all his work from
the officers and members of the Association. And due acknowledgment
should be made of the faithful assistance of Mr. William J. Battison,
whose experience and knowledge make him of great value in the office
work of the Association, particularly in the department of statistics and
the preparation of the Annual Wool Review.

All of which is respectfully submitted.

WiNTHROP L. Marvin,

Boston, January 31, 1911,

Secretary.

THE ANNUAL BANQUET.

The annual banquet of the National Association of Wool
Manufacturers was served in the great ballroom on the top
floor of the New Willard at 8 p.m. The new President,
John P. Wood of Philadel[)hia, presided. On his right sat
Hon. Joseph G. Cannon, Speaker of the House of Repre-
sentatives, and on the left, Senator Henry Cabot Lodge of
Massachusetts. Seated also at the head table were ex-
President William Whitman, Vice-Presidents Charles H.
Harding, William M. Wood, and F'rederick S. Clark, and
J. R. MacCoU, John Hopewell, and Joseph R. Grundy of
the Executive Committee of the Association. With them
were a large number of other distinguished guests including
Hon. Francis E. Warren, Senator from Wyoming; Hon.
Reed Smoot, Senator from Utah ; Hon. Boies Penrose,
Senator from Pennsylvania ; Hon. Robert J. Gamble,
Senator from South Dakota ; Hon. Weldon B. Heyburn,
Senator from Idaho ; Hon. Charles Curtis, Senator from
Kansas ; Hon. George T. Oliver, Senator from Pennsyl-
vania ; Prof. Henry C. Emery, Chairman of the Tariff
Board; James B. Reynolds, a member of the TariiT Board;
Hon. Edgar D. Crumpacker, Representative from Indiana;
Hon. Irving P. Wanger, Representative from Pennsyl-

18 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

vania ; Hon. William A. Calderhead, Representative from
Kansas ; Hon. Frank W. Mondell, Representative from
Wyoming; Hon. Joseph Howell, Representative from Utah ;
Hon. Joseph W. Fordnej, Representative from Michigan ;
Hon. J. C. Needham, Representative from California; Hon.
Arthur L. Bates, Representative from Pennsylvania; Hon.
Ralph D. Cole, Representative from Ohio ; Hon. J. Hampton
Moore, Representative from Pennsylvania ; Hon. Charles N.
Pray, Representative from Montana : Hon. Thomas R.
Hamer, Representative from Idaho, and L. White Busbey,
secretary to Speaker Cannon.

ADDRESS OF PRESIDENT JOHN P. WOOD.

Including the guests, about two hundred and fifty gentle-
men were present — not only wool manufacturers, but wool
merchants and representatives of the wool growers of the
far West. President John P. Wood, calling the assemblage
to order after the dinner, said :

The present is not an opportune moment for me to speak at
length. We are to be addressed by certain of our guests and
members, each of whom is in a particular way notably qualified
to inform and counsel us upon subjects of vital interest to us,
not merely as men engaged in the woolen industry, but in a
larger and broader way, as citizens of a common country, sin-
cerely concerned for its welfare in all things, including that
material prosperity upon which its moral and intellectual
development must rest.

To give the distinguished speakers whose messages we desire
to hear without abridgement the most ample allotment of time
(always too brief at such events as this), their introductions will
be in the briefest form, and I shall confine my remarks to the
statement of a few suggestive facts that are commonly over-
looked in the discussion of the more technical questions of legis-
lation in which this Association is interested.

Those composing the great army of persons directly engaged
in the woolen industry and in occupations dependent upon that
industry, are not in any separate or special way beneficiaries of
the Government. They labor as honestly, as diligently, and risk

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 19

as much as do their fellow citizens in like stations in other
vocations ; and they share with the whole people whatever
benefits tiow from legislation enacted for the purpose of building
up the domestic woolen industry.

THE BUSINESS IS OPEX TO EVERY ONE.

The business is not a close corporation ; it is equally open to
every one, and in rank and file it offers opportunity for every
kind of capacity and training.

Moreover, all these hundreds of thousands of our fellow
workers are withdrawn from competing for place in other
employments.

Suppose for a moment that wool manufacturing had never
been established in the United States — and it could never have
been established and developed here but for the existence of a
protective tariff.

Those now engaged in it would not be without employment.
They would have contested for the places now filled by many
men who think themselves in no wise concerned with the tariff
except as consumers. Those in our ranks would have found
their way into all the activities of life. They would have
become doctors, lawyers, engineers, preachers, bankers, railway
officials and employees, merchants, farmers, salesmen, clerks,
mechanics of all kinds, day laborers, editors, magazine writers,
perhaps even members of Congress ; and I fear there would
have been a few, just a very few, "insurgents."

This illustrates one of the fundamental reasons justifying the
protective policy — namely, the diversification of industry for
the greater prosperity of the whole people. And has any other
country, new or old, with or without natural resources, so abund-
antly justified that policy by the almost universal diffusion of
prosperity ?

ASKING NO SPECIAL FAVOR.

Those engaged in the woolen industry ask no special privilege,
seek no advantage but that of equal opportunity, neither possess
nor desire any beneficence of government that is not freely avail-
able to all citizens. They are in no sense beneficiaries of the
tariff except as they share the benefits for the common advantage
of all.

20 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

There are no mysteries about the conduct of the woolen indus-
try ; every essential fact is accessible.

It invites the most searching investigation and comparison as
to the returns it makes to capital, the wages of its labor, the
acuteness of its competition, and the facility with which those
of limited financial resource can engage in its various branches
under conditions favorable to success.

It depends upon no secret processes, no controlled patent
rights, nor upon exclusive franchises.

In no branch of the woolen business, from the production of
the wool to the distribution of the finished clothing, is there any
trust or combination in restraint of trade. No individual, nor
corporation, nor group of either, exercises a controlling influence
in the industry. Indeed, sometimes we might well wish for
some steadying influence in the times that try men's souls, just
as the banks have their clearing houses which in seasons of
panic regulate the conditions under which their business shall
be done.

Nor do we know of any instance in which our trade has been
concerned in violations of the Federal laws relating to interstate
commerce.

And, although the transactions of the American woolen manu-
facturers with the United States Customs House involve amounts
of great magnitude, they have been singularly free from even
the suspicion of undervaluation frauds.

NO GREAT FORTUNES MADE.

It is noteworthy that none of the great accumulations of
wealth in this country have been made in the woolen trade.

At the same time, not a few respectable competences have
been dissipated in the field of our endeavor.

Vast individual fortunes have been acquired in transportation,
banking, mining, real estate ; in wholesale and retail trade ; in
the use and development of natural resources ; in the construc-
tion of public utilities ; in the publishing of newspapers, and in
many other kinds of business, including some few varieties of
manufacture ; but none such in the woolen trade, though many
of its establishments have had a continuous existence of from
fifty to one hundred years, and were preexistent to the begin-
nings of most of the great American fortunes.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 21

The products of the woolen industry are not transported at
government expense. Its properties are not improved and
enhanced in value by expenditures of public funds. It is not
assisted in the solution of its technical problems by experiment
stations and research laboratories conducted by the national or
State government. All of which advantages are enjoyed by one
or another of other classes of our fellow citizens.

Believing in the system of protection for the good of the
whole people, the woolen manufacturers cheerfully acquiesce in
the application of that principle to the raw material they use.
They have not presented the spectacle of advocating adequate
protection on their finished products while opposing such rates
on the products of others which they require.

One of our ablest and brightest members recently remarked
that " ours is a business in which, once entered, one has a life
sentence," and the sentence is to hard labor, unremitting toil, and
ceaseless anxiety.

Though of excitement there is no lack, for to quote the
opinion of another dear victim: "No one who buys or manu-
factures wool has need of other outlet for his speculative
instinct. He has no excuse for toying with Wall Street, or play-
'ing the races, or staking his money at games of chance; for he
should be able to fully satisfy any gambling propensities he
may have in the wonderful chances the business presents."

Before proceeding further I wish to make this announce-
ment on behalf of the woolen industry :

A committee will call upon the President of the United
States to-morrow to pay the respects of those engaged in this
industry, and on behalf of this Association ; and it is desired
that that shall be a committee of the whole, and I invite all
of those who are assembled with us and who can remain over
until to-morrow, to meet in the office of the New Willard
Hotel for that purpose, at 9.45 a.m., to proceed to the White
House.

And now, gentlemen, we wish to make a preliminary apol-
ogy to the distinguished gentlemen in public life who are to
address us to-night for somewhat reversing the usual order of
exercises.

22 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

One of our purposes in coming to Washington for the hold-
ing of this annual meeting was that we might in some meas-
ure make a statement of our own case, the case of the wool
growing and wool manufacturing industries, two great allied
interests. And so we shall so far depart from precedent as
to ask those who shall speak for us and for the wool growing
interest to address you before our distinguished guests are
heard.

I have great pleasure in introducing the gentleman who
has been selected to speak on behalf of the wool manufac-
turing industry, whom you will all recognize as peculiarly
and especially qualified, not only by his long and thorough
experience in the technical aspects of that industr}^ but by
his great ability in the forceful and eloquent presentation of
that knowledge which he has acquired during this long
service.

It gives me a great deal of pleasure to introduce Mr. Charles
H. Harding, of Philadelphia.

ADDRESS OF MR. CHARLES H. HARDING.

Mr. President, our Distinguished Guests, Fellow Mem-
bers OF THIS Association :
I am happy to be able to say that on account of an incident
which at first was very uncomfortable for me, 1 shall cut these
remarks very much shorter than otherwise ; because as soon as
this address was finished, it was torn out of my hands by the
Chairman of the Committee who has this meeting in charge,
on the plea that it was necessary that the newspapers should
know what I was going to say before I had said it, and it was
conveyed to Washington. It is now I believe in the hands of the
gentlemen who do the reporting, and I have not seen a copy of
it since, until just a moment before I came here. Therefore, I
am at liberty to do what I have been anxious to do, and that is
to cut these remarks to the shortest possible compass, and say to
you that what I ought to say will be found in some of the news-
papers to-morrow. Also I can at the same time take notice that

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 23

the President has advised me to get out of the way of the band
wagon, which I am very anxious to do.

You have seen fit to elect me for the eighteenth or nineteenth
time to the office of Vice-President of your Association. I have
not the words nor the time now to express my great gratitude for
myself, or my great regret for you.

You have on previous occasions sent me to meet the National
Association of Wool Growers, who were kind enough to invite
me twice more on like journeys ; but the heaviest load you have
ever given me you have given me to-night, in the defence of this
Association, and in a certain measure in defence of the schedule
that levies rates on wool and woolens ; for you know we have been
assured on very high authority that the woolen schedule is
indefensible.

Speaker Cannon. — Do you mean Schedule K ?

Mr. Harding. — Schedule K. And now, without pity on the
gray and scanty hairs of an old comrade, you have set me to that
impossible task of defending Schedule K I

I shall consider very briefly your past and your present
situation, and the outlook for the future.

TWO ALLEGED CONSPIRACIES.

As to the past, you are charged with two conspiracies, the first
one in 1865, which I shall not at all stop to notice, except to say
that when the foundation was laid after six months' study of
the conditions of avooI and woolen manufacturing, for a tariff
that two years afterward became the law of the United States,
there was a wonderful prescience, almost an inspiration, in the
classification and the elaboration of the principles adapted to the
industry, and our forefathers built far better than they knew
when they classified the wools, not as clothing, combing, etc., as
adapted to the machinery and practices of their time, but when
they decided that the classification of wool should be not on the
use, which changes from year to year and decade to decade, but
on the breed or blood of the wool, thereby saving the Govern-
ment and ourselves unending litigation. Their recital of breeds
of sheep whose wool was included in Class 2 (combing wools) was
based on a situation that knew practically but the now obsolete
combing machine that could handle only long fibers ; the Noble
comb was not fairly established and the French comb dealing

24 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

with the very short fiber had not been then invented. The main
sources of supply for the combing industry, established in the
country less than ten years beforehand, were Great Britain and
Canada, whose wools were then always marketed in a washed
condition — and this accounts for the exceptional dealing with
washed wools in Class 2 ; but the short wools, the pulled wools,
and any other wools of the class fitted for the cards of that time
shared with the long wools the privilege of entry as washed
wools without double duty, as they have done ever since.

Worsted yarns were used for shawls, reps (in upholstery), dress
goods (delaines, poplins, and the like), and for hand-knitting
in common with woolen yarns, knitted underwear being almost
unknown. Not a yard of worsteds for men's wear had been put
on the market, these fabrics being first made in notable quantity
about 1873, and receiving their first public recognition from the
very beautiful display at the Centennial Exposition of 1876. Not
only were shorter fibered wools of Class II. then as now available
for carding as well as for combing purposes, but the market price
of competing wools from the middle west gradually came to be
regulated not by them, but by the crossbred wools of Australia,
New Zealand, and South America, all which must be imported
*' in the grease " as of Class I. of clothing wools. But the trade
language of to-day uses the name " combing wool " for all wools
of Class II. and Class I. that can be used on any form of combing
machinery, and this includes nearly all the wool grown in the
world.

The second conspiracy which is laid at our doors applies to
1908, and we are charged with having met, in a clandestine
fashion, some wool growers from the West in the city of Chicago,
and arranged there an irresistible defence of Schedule K. Well,
there was no secret conspiracy. These wool growers remembered
very well what had happened in the framing of the Dingley
tariff ; how some of the manufacturers had come down here with
the idea that eight cents a pound was enough on unwashed wool
of the first class, and had met with the representatives of the
wool growers, who said that thirteen cents a pound would not
recuperate the injuries they had suffered under the free wool
law ; and those of us who were here at that time remember how
long and how acrid sometimes were the conferences that were
held, and finally the adjustment was reached between us that a
compromise of eleven cents a pound as duty on unwashed wool,

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 25

with the scoured and washed wools in proportion, would have to
suffice.

KEASSURING THE WOOL GROWERS.

When in 1908 the platforms of both the political parties declared
that a tariff revision was imperative after the Presidential
election, the wool growers naturally wanted to know what you had
to say about it, and to know whether the scenes that attended the
making of the Dingley tariff were to be repeated, and they wrote
to our office. In the meantime a great association called the
American Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers had
been formed, many of its members being members of our Associa-
tion, and they wrote to us and said they preferred not to have any-
thing to do with the manipulation of tariff matters, which the
older association had always attended to, to their entire satis-
faction.

The wool growers were informed from our office that it was
not the intention of this Association to meddle in any way with
the duties that should be put on wool, as this Association thought,
as we had always thought, that was a matter to be settled by the
testimony that the wool growers themselves would present to
Congress. They, however, were still in trouble, and said as they
were to have a meeting in Chicago on the 19th of October to
confer about their new proposition to sell their own wools direct
through the Chicago warehouse, they would be very hajjpy to
have a committee of our Association meet them on that date, face
to face, to talk over the prospects.

The committees met, and the result of it was the passage of
unanimous resolutions to the effect that neither body could see
that there was any occasion or room for the reduction of duties
on wools and woolens. The resolutions were handed, on the
assembling of Congress, by the Secretaries of the two bodies, to
the Committee on Ways and Means. There was no conspiracy
and there was no secrecy; but as the matter occurred two weeks
before the Presidential election, it naturally did not engage the
attention of the newspapers.

AS TO TARIFF DISCRIMIXATIO>r IN WOOLS.

A hue and cry started almost instantly, and it is said that out
of these two conspiracies two great wrongs had been worked on
the American people and a section of the manufacturers. It was

26 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

said at once that a certain section of manufacturers are by the
operation of the duty on raw wool deprived of certain heavy
shrinking fine wools which are necessary in their business to give
the American people the kind of cloth they ought to have when
they do not want to wear worsted clothing and do not want to
wear shoddy.

It is a very extraordinary thing that the principles of the
tariff law which result in this discrimination had been embodied
in the law and in operation for almost a generation, and the dis-
crimination had not been found out until now. The proposition
itself, as stated by these gentlemen, is utterly baseless so far as
the facts are concerned.

To put the proposition clearly before you, it is that there is a
certain class of heavy wools grown in some parts of the world,
necessary to the operation of making carded yarn ; that the man
who makes worsted yarn or worsted goods is at liberty to import
very light shrinking wools which these other people cannot get.

Now the facts are these : Anybody who knows anything about
wool and sheep knows that if the wool in a flock is heavy, the
short wool and the long wool are alike heavy ; if the wool off
the sheep is light, the short wool and the long wool are alike
light. Every man of experience in buying wools in the markets
of the world knows that whenever parcels of combing wool are
offered for sale, parcels of clothing wool are offered from the
same clips. Every man who has been present at foreign auctions
knows that he can buy these clotliing wools at the same or some-
times a less price at the auction than he must pay for the cloth-
ing wools, and that wherever in the world he can buy light
shrinking long wools for combing, he can buy light shrinking
short wools for clothing.

The largest importer of foreign wools in Boston, and in the
United States, sits right here, and he has said to me that in the
time of free wool — when, of course, no duty being levied, if
these people could ever do what they want to, they certainly
ought to do it then — that in the time of free wool he brought
into this country about 250,000 bales of wool, 80,000 bales in
one year, and that of that 80,000 bales more than one-half went
to the carded yarn manufacturers. My own experience is that
when we once ran both cards for woolen yarns and combs for
worsted yarns, I was in the habit of buying in the London auc-
tions long wools and short wools for the two varieties of manu-

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 27

facture, and taking the combing and clothing parcels from the
same clip as a matter of course. Furthermore, a member of our
Association lately issued this challenge :

"I will make this statement, that if the carded wool manu-
facturers will show me any grade of combing wool the worsted
manufacturers are importing, I will guarantee to import for them
a corresponding grade of clothing wool suitable for their require-
ments, at the same price, clean scoured, delivered in Boston, and
probably for a little less money."

There is an opportunity to do business. The answer to that
was, " I know the Hartley family." Well, we do, too, and we
know very well that if they make a proposition to do business,
and you want to do business with them you can do it. Now here
was a proposition to these complainants that all they had to do
was to give an order to these well-known gentlemen to import
wool, and they would get all the wool they wanted, at any time
that the worsted man buys wool, and usually for a little less
money. A great many of you will agree with me that when these
gentlemen make an offer or a promise, they will do what they say.
They will keep their word.

A CASE IN POINT.

Now as to the illustration of the principle that is involved.
Suppose a man is buying wool in Australia, and he sees a clip of
Australian wool that will shrink say 42 per cent, that will 3aeld
58 per cent of clean wool, which he can buy for 15 pence or 30
cents. That means 50 cents a pound scoured. Looking around
for these heavy wools which are so much desired, he may find
that he can get one shrinking 72 per cent, or giving him 28
per cent of wool; clean ; and to get that at 50 cents a pound, clean,
he must buy it for 14 cents. Suppose he is able to do that. The
question now arises what will happen next ? This is what will
happen next. If he buys the 15 pence or 30-cent light shrinking
wool, the weighing, shipping, freight, insurance, commissions,
custom house charges here and other things that land it in his
mill, may mean to him 5 cents a pound, and that means on his
scoured pound an addition of 8.6 cents. If he buys the other
wool, which our friends say is so desirable and essential, he may
be able, on account of his commissions being reckoned on a lower
basis, to find that the cost added is only 4 cents a pound ; but

28 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

that 4 cents a poiiud, because of the exceeding shrinkage of the
wool, means on the scoured pound 14.3 cents.

Now it is a plain proposition that a man will buy the light
shrinking wool, no matter what he wants to do with it. He has a
chance to save the difference between the 8.6 cents on the scoured
pound in the one case and 14.3 cents a pound in the other case.
Naturally he selects the light shrinking wool. Furthermore,
with that difference to his advantage, he will advance his bids a
little on the light shrinking wool ; if he cannot save the whole
8.6 cents, he will save as much as he can. But the result of
that is that all the buyers of wool throughout the United States,
when they appear in the foreign markets, take by preference
the light shrinking wools as a matter of profit. That is wh}^ the
increase of price of the light shrinking wool to America is brought
about, and so the phrase has grown up the world over that these
wools are " Wools suitable for America." This reckoning is on
free wool, but with any rate of duty per pound the principle
remains the same.

Now I submit to any man who knows anything about the
business that it is an absolute absurdity to claim that even with
free wool any of us who knew what he was about would select
these heavy shrinking, dirty wools, in preference to the light
shrinking wools, if he could get them. And I assert again, with-
out any fear of contradiction, that the American people have been
stirred to the boiling point and made venomous against you by a
false charge.

AN EQUAL CHANCE FOR ALL.

The worsted man has no opportunity in buying wools any-
where in the markets of the world that is not equally open to
me if I am a maker of carded yarn. And it is a strange happen-
ing of chance that to-night the President of this great Associa-
tion of the American Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers, Mr.
Clark, is one of the Vice-presidents of this Association, and our
new President himself is a manufacturer of carded yarns, having
in his mill more machinery for making them than all the people
in Philadelphia combined who make the noise.

We have been hounded for eighteen months on this charge of
an unjust discrimination growing out of the nature of the tariff,
and T wish that my voice could sound all over this country and
could reverse the opinions and actions of some people, opinions

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 29

they have formed because they have believed in this charge,
which is a downright falsehood.

The apparent force of the wonderful cumulative percentages
that are hurled at you every now and then grows out of the fact
that the duty on wool is specific. I want to inquire for a mo-
ment what is the practice of the world in the matter of specific
duties. Anybody who looks into the subject must be astounded
to find out that of all the civilized nations of the world this is
the only one that clings to the principle of ad valorem duties.
Austria, Germany, France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Russia, and
Great Britain have all of them distinctly specific tariffs.
France has eight hundred and sixty-six items in her tariff, and
nine of them are ad valorem because of the peculiarity of cer-
tain articles. Germany has nine hundred and forty-six speci-
fications in her tariff, every one of them a specific duty.
England raises about one-fourth of her revenue from customs,
and not all on liquors and cigars, either, and every duty of
England is a specific duty. She once had a most drastic proposi-
tion for dealing with undervaluation. Those laws were known
as Statutes 16 and 17, Victoria, Chapter 107, Section 57, under
which every suspected invoice, that was thought to be under-
valued, had 5 per cent added to it at once, and was taken away
from the importer and sold for the benefit of the Crown, and if
there was a loss the Crown took it, and if there was a gain it
went to the Crown, and the importer had nothing to say. He
had his investment, as stated on his oath, and a 5 per cent profit
on that. That is now obsolete, for Great Britain has no more
ad valorem duties, and so has no more use for that law.

THE "enhanced" COST OF CLOTHING.

Another charge laid against you is that because of the passage
of the late tariff bill the cost of clothing to the American people
has been enhanced enormously. Without reflecting on the
National Association of Clothing Manufacturers, I want to read
what was put out by them. On June 30, 1909, they scattered
this statement :

" As the schedule covering this industry has been adopted by
the Senate Committee of the Whole, and as it is practically a
continuation of the old Dingley schedule, the N. A. C. M. feel

30 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

that they must file their protest before the adoption by the
Senate. The operations of the Dingley (?) bill — "

(I think they must have meant the Payne-Aldrich bill.)

" Will add to the retail price approximately $2.50 on a $10
suit of clothes, $3 on a $15 suit, $5 on a $20 suit, or from 20 to
25 per cent to the cost of clothing to the wearer thereof."

They continue in their statement :

" The aggregate burden of the increased cost of men's and
boys' clothing to the American people under the present advance
alone will be $120,000,000 for the year 1910, which was twice
the value of the annual domestic wool clip."

The President of that association was asked over and over
again how it was possible that this thing could be, when all of
the few changes which were made in the woolen schedule were in
a downward direction? He never answered. But by chance the
Vice-president of that association, at a dinner of the American
Woolen Company within a month, has said this. Take it home
for your comfort :

" Magazine articles notwithstanding, I want to state most
emphatically that it is not the fault of the American Woolen
Company that the prices of clothing are high, but it is the fault
of our extravagant demands for style, our Byzantine cravings
for adornment, our costly methods of distributing, that add so
tremendously to the cost of the finished product. As a matter
of fact it has been the achievement of your corporation to give
us serviceable fabrics at low prices. But the structure reared
upon the three and one-half yards of cloth going into a suit
contains, besides the cloth, so much advertising, so much cost of
designing to meet the demands of fashion, so much retailers'
expense, so much cost of distribution, as to make the cost of the
finished product out of all proportion to the original cost of the
cloth."

When you have paid your tailors $45, $50, $55, $60, $65 or
$75 possibly for a suit of clothes, you have had a suspicion that
this might be true ; but it has remained for the last month to
bring this open confession from the men who use your fabrics.

Every one of you has a souvenir here. I commend it to your
careful study, and as Senator Smoot, who sits by me here, says,
to the study of the whole American people. I wish a million of
these samples had been sent out.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 31

A CAMPAIGN OF VITUPERATION".

So much for the charges against us for the past. You know
your present situation. You are objects of contempt. The most
violent, malignant abuse ever let loose, I think, on any section of
the American people, has been poured upon you without stint for
a year and a half; and if your machinery, of which 60 per cent
was idle last year, is now running to the extent of 60 per cent,
you are happy. The stock of goods in this country, if the
inventory of Claflin & Company on the first of January is at all
an index, is the lowest that has been heard of in many a year.
You are facing, we are told, the cheapest wool in the world.
Since the Dingley tariff bill has passed, you have advanced your
wages 20 to 25 per cent. The hours for labor in all the States
have been reduced, and some of you are not working as many
hours as the law allows.

You stand looking into a future from which you have been
promised a quickly arousing prosperity, dreading lest before the
arrival of this much desired guest, there shall come to you some
disaster at the hands of your own Government.

Now, as to the future, what is to happen ? Well, we are
accused of being standpatters. Those of you who are old and gray
enough will recollect that originally we were called bloated bond-
holders. Well, that was a figment of the imagination that was
soon dissipated by those knowing anything about our business.
Then we were robber barons, and to-day we are beneficiaries of
the wicked Schedule K of the present tariff, and you are offered
to be reformed and to be revised, and to have a number of other
things done to you ; and the question is asked, must we stand pat
on Schedule K ? Now the answer to that depends entirely upon
what you mean. I can see and you can see that if our legislators
were to see fit at once to gather all the compensating duties into
two paragraphs, one on the pound and the other on the square
yard, the public would at once see two things. One of them is
that the compensating duty rates are things that rise and fall
automatically with the duty on raw wool. The other is that it
might put an end to the cry of "four pounds of wool to a pound
of clothing," because under this arrangement of the compensating
duties it would be seen that they are two, two and a quarter, two
and a half, three times, three and one-half times and four times

32 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the duty on the pound of unwashed wool, and the four times is
simply kept for the highest priced cloth and for clothing.

We have before now offered specific rates for consideration for
parts of Schedule K : and if the whole of it could be remodeled on
the plan of the Cotton and Silk schedules, our business would be
on a much more permanent basis.

AD VALOREM DUTIES ON WOOL.

Then we are asked whether we will approve ad valorem duties
on wool. It seems a pity to have to discuss that before an intel-
ligent audience. The men who know anything about importing
wool know that the most vicious thing that could be done to the
honest importer would be to make him subject to the knavery
and the trickery that will be practised by the thief under the
ad valorem duty.

We have been told time and time again that the wools of the
world were sold at auction, which is not the fact entirely. It is
only in two countries that they are sold at auction. We have been
told time and time again that the parcels of wool sold anywhere
in the world can be identified by our customs appraisers, which
we know is not true. I do not think that anybody can put the
truth about ad valorem duties into better shape than Chairman
Payne of the House Ways and Means Committee did in his
epigram when he was examining me on the question. After the
examination was over he said, " An ad valorem duty on wool is a
very beautiful thing till you start to collect it." That seems to
be the whole answer.

Well, then, we are offered — and these kindergarten proposi-
tions that come sometimes from very high authorities must look
very queer to you — we are offered a rare scheme, a graduated
duty on the scoured pound of wool, with little distances of 5 per
cent apart, a few cents to be added to each 5 per cent. Anybody
who knows anything about scoured wool knows that a method
of that kind would mean that a lot of wool Avould be dutiable at
one rate one day and another rate the next day, according to the
weather.

Then we are offered free wool. Nobody here knows so much
about free wool as you do, Senator Warren.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 33

FREE TRADE AND RECIPROCITY.

May I say a word about free trade in general, as to the logic
of free trade ? Free trade, and the brotherhood of man, and
universal salvation are . most beautiful things in theory ; but
everybody admits that they are all subject to modifications in
practice. Free trade as between the States that make up this
great nation, where the income is for the common benefit and
the expenditures are under joint control, is absolutely necessary
and right. The same thing is true of the Australian Federation.
The same thing is true of the German Empire; but the proposi-
tion of free trade between two nations, each of which collects
its own revenue for its own purposes and spends its own money
without regard to the other, is unspeakably absurd.

Reciprocity ! Dare any layman say anything about reciproc-
ity ? Especially in this distinguished presence. Most of us were
brought up on the McKinley idea of reciprocity in non-competing
products, and I have never heard any of you object to it. But
may I say, privately and not for publication, that the proposi-
tion of reciprocity between two nations because of their neighbor-
hood looks to me exactly like a proposition to two families to
pool their incomes and independently spend tliem, because they
live in twin houses. Now do not understand me as opposing
reciprocity.

Free raw material is offered to us. You know what free raw
material means to the clip and the woolen business of the coun-
try. We have had an experience with free raw material, and
we were promised that we would be independent of the world,
that we would export goods, and many wild and beautiful prophe-
sies of the same kind were given to us. What happened ? I
cannot stop to tell you. As to the exporting of goods, I do know
that two cases of goods were sent out of the port of New York
and landed somewhere in Great Britain by Derby & Co., of New
York, and so far as the public knows they were never heard of
more.

THE RESULTS OF IGNORANCE.

Gentlemen, the sorry part of the situation is that so many of
these things that are proposed to you come out of the deepest
ignorance. Why, I remember once in an examination before a
distinguished Ways and Means Committee of this country, when
somebody was speaking of the possibility of identifying wool

34 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

bought abroad by the coverings in which it was contained, a mem-
ber of that committee shuffled uneasily and impatiently in his
seat and said, " As for me, I don't know whether wool comes to
the market in boxes or in barrels."

A distinguished correspondent of the cheaper magazines, with
a very impressive middle name, lately said to the collector of
the port of Philadelphia, " Your manufacturers ought to have
free raw materials. With free raw materials you could invade
the world and conquer the nations," etc. The collector of the
port said to him, *' Do you know anything about the drawback
system in our tariff ? " " Never heard of it ; don't think it
amounts to anything." " Well, but," he said, " my friend, in
the year 1909 I paid out in the port of Philadelphia alone over
$700,000 in drawbacks, and in 1910 I paid out $1,028,000 in
drawbacks, and it looks as though the drawback system is work-
ing some." And I want to say that anybody who knows, under-
stands that when an importer gets back 99 per cent of the duty
on the articles that he exports, he is so far as duties are con-
cerned on a perfect level with the manufacturers of all the rest
of the world.

Well, I hear the noise of the band wagon behind me and must
hasten. We are offered reform and revision, and it is a question
whether we shall have it at the hands of a commission or whether
we shall have it at the hands of the politicians.

Now we are not opposing a commission. I am perfectly satis-
fied that if the wisdom of our legislators would give us a com-
mission for the reasons tliat the French have a commission, and
after the model of the German commission that was held up to
us so long and loudly, we would be perfectly content.

HOW TARIFFS ARE MADE ABROAD.

Here is a strange thing to the ears of an American manu-
facturer, on the subject of the French revision : We read in the
preface to the translation of the new tariff, the following:

" The 1910 tariff was not a Government measure. The demand
for a revision came primarily from the manufacturers, who felt
that in view of changes in industrial methods and of higher
customs duties in competing countries, they had come to need
increased protection. . .

"The essentially industrial character of the revision is dis-

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 35

closed by the fact that out of 144 new items inserted, 112 covered
manufactured articles, while of the 341 amended items manu-
factures represented 249."

Imagine yourselves and your brethren in the manufacturing
business coming down to Washington and saying to Congress,
" Gentlemen, we have not enough protection, and on account of
competing tariffs and other circumstances the world over we
ought to have more." Your imagination can finish the picture.

One of the members of the German tariff commission, who is
now a member of your Association, and is doing business in,
Passaic, K. J., writes to me :

" The German commission consisted of several hundred mem-
bers, representatives of the principal agricultural, industrial, and
commercial organizations of the country, the first of whom were
appointed about 1899."

" Their labors lasted for three years."

" Some of the members were appointed by the Government
direct, others were appointed by the Government after being
nominated by the various semi-official organizations, such as
chambers of commerce, etc."

That is one way — the foreign way — of getting experts on
the tariff question. Then this gentleman adds :

*'A similarly constituted commission, representative of all
interests, would in my opinion be very advantageous to the
United States."

The people of the United States are now saying " Blank,
blank the interests." If we are not to have ourselves reformed
and revised by a tariff commission, or by the board now exist-
ing, for which we have the greatest respect, and for which we
will do anything we possibly can, then we are to be reformed at
the hands of the politicians who are coming into possession of
the next Congress. The theory of revising by means of a tariff
commission is based on the possibility and necessity of finding
out the facts ; but the shining apostle among the politicians, who
has lately come into the management of affairs in our sister
State of New Jersey, rested himself awhile ago long enough
from his job of appointing a new Senator from that State to
give utterance to this :

" It is impossible — "

He tells us —

" To base tariff or other legislation upon the finding of facts.

36 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

This proposition of a commission is out of the question entirely.
These things must be managed by the politicians ; " and he said
" it is the business of politicians to alter the facts."

Well, I don't know. Now I believe that the new Speaker-to-be
of the House is a sensible, reasonable man. I have no fear that
Mr. Underwood or Mr. Randell will do violence to the facts ;
but I do remember that the new Speaker promised not long ago
to drive a team to the Capitol, and we all understand that that
team has been very largely augmented, and it is just possible
that it may get headed for the White House, and then what will
happen ? Who knows ? And if we are to fall into the hands of
the gentlemen I have named, or fall into the hands of I think
twelve lawyers in that committee majority, let me repeat again,
who knows ?

ILLUSTRATIONS OF COSTS.

We are accused of being the principal sinners against the
public as to the high cost of living. With what I have to say
about that, I shall have finished my remarks. I want to give
one or two illustrations of the things that have happened in this
land, for which you as manufacturers are not responsible. You
may not remember, but in the year 1882 an invoice of French
jerseys was landed in the port of New York, and the cost landed
was $108 a dozen, and they retailed for $12.50 apiece. They
were garments that were drawn over the head, that fitted tightly
to the form, and for the moment were extremely fashionable and
a great fad. In the following year John Wanamaker imported
the cloth from which to make them, the garments were made in
Philadelphia by a manufacturer who turned them out, open in
front, with collar and pockets, at $84 dollars a dozen. Domestic
production had reduced the cost in less than six months $24 a
dozen. Then Wanamaker imported the yarn, and they still
further declined in price. The next year we made the yarn, and
they retailed at $3.50 apiece. Lower qualities of wool were
introduced, everybody was making them, and the fashion liter-
ally wore itself out. That is what domestic manufacture did to
a fad.

I want to show you something that is going on now. Do you
know what this is that I hold in my hand ? A whole lot of us
are turning out hundreds of pounds a day of it, and if we get a

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 37

dollar a pound for it we are happy. It is made out of your
wool, Senator Warren, and wool like yours.

Out of this are made these so-called eider-down caps, and
I want to admit at once that a party of boys and girls, especially
girls, coming out of school, wearing that sort of head coverings,
present a very different picture from that presented some months
ago when they were wearing hats that had been fashionable,
were then passe, and on the way to the ash barrel. When it is
taken from you it is bleached for white or dyed, wound into 1^-
ounce balls, four of which are put in a paste-board box and sold
at the department store for $1.50, or at the rate of $4.80 a pound.
Yet the cursing for the cost of Iiigh living falls on you. As the
Irish would say, gentlemen, that would be funny if it was not so
serious. Where the difference between $1 a pound that you
get and $4.80 a pound that the department store gets shall be
found. Providence alone knows. I know one man who has been
making these balls at the rate of 2,000 pounds a day. He cleared
out a large room, put in 180 girls, and they turned out 8,000 boxes
a day, which he turned over to the department store man, and he
and the department store man divided the $3.80 a pound. One of
these eider-down caps, like the one I hold in my hand, takes a
little over three of these balls. A woman can knit one in two
hours if she has had a little experience, and they retail for
$2.50 apiece; and that is the sort of villainous practice that
you manufacturers have been perpetrating on the public.

FROM THE WOOL TO THE SUIT.

One more illustration, and I have finished. When the Wilson
bill was on its way, a gentleman who is now here, and was then
in the wool business, brought into our office one day an inquiring
young Democrat from Idaho, who was astounded because wools
that had been bringing eighteen to twenty cents a pound for
years were then offered in Philadelphia for eleven cents, and
would not sell for ten cents, and he wanted to know why. He
said, " I want to get the yarn that will make a serge suit of
clothes, and I want that yarn made into cloth, and I want to get
that cloth made into a suit, and I want a bill for the yarn, a bill
for the cloth, a bill for the suit, and I want to go down to
Washington where I know some Democrats, for my father is an
influential man in Idaho, and I want to see how it is and why it

38 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

is." I said, " That is a very simple proposition." He wanted it
made out of his wool. I said, " I don't know anything about
your wool, but let us see." We found out from the weaver
(Thos. Dolan & Co.) how much yarn he wanted, and although we
could not give him yarn from his own wool, we did give him
the same thing from another territory clip. Now I want you to
listen to the figures which represent that transaction. They are
worth while.

Here is a little bundle like that he took away, containing two
pounds and ten ounces of 2/40 worsted yarn, for which he paid
$2.14. He took it to the weaver and it was put in shape and
the cloth came back, and he showed it to me. That cost him
f 1.66 additional, and then he had $3.80 as the cost of three and
three-eighths yards of cloth, the material in a suit of clothes.
He started up Chestnut street, and the first tailor he asked
wanted to charge $35 for making the suit, but he went along
Market street and finally found a man who would make it for
$22, which was the best he could do. He gave him the job, and
when the suit was completed he showed it to me, as he was on
his way to Washington, in an effort to impress the great Congress
of the United States that somewhere there was an Ethiopian in
the wood-pile. He tried it, and he came back to me later on, a
sad man on his way home. I said to him, ''My dear friend,
remember this: if you had found this little package in the
street, you would have had in it the proportionate cost of run-
ning your ranch, the duty on wool, and the cost of running our
factory ; and out of that suit of clothes that cost you $25.80
you would have saved $2.14."

The Wilson tariff bill was passed. The distinguished gentle-
man from New Jersey, Governor Wilson, was not the first man
of that name who found it was convenient to alter the facts.

It only remains now to protest, gentlemen, against the tirade of
abuse that has been showered on you for a year and a half, and
it is only for that purpose that I have another word to say. The
butcher birds of cheap literature have hung your reputations up
to dry, and sometimes they have scattered among them the
reputations of some of the best statesmen this country has ever
known. And I want to say in great confidence that I have been
told that somebody's money was back of this attack.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 39

BEADY TO SHOW THE FACTS.

I want to make a promise for you, and to the tariff board, the
tariff commission, or any successors that these gentlemen may
have, that we will do every possible thing to get before the
public the facts connected with the management of our business.
Here is what was passed to-day in the meeting of our Association :

Resolved, by the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, That
we reaffirm our belief in the American system of protection as the best
system alike for the manufactures, the agriculture and the commerce
of the United States.

Resolved, That we approve the underlying principles of Schedule K,
as embodying tiie best practicable results of many years of study by the
ablest economic students among the public men of America, and we
urge that no changes be attempted in that Schedule until the Tariff
Board shall have made new, exact and comprehensive information
available for the guidance of Congress and the country.

Resolved, That we reaffirm the declaration of the Executive Committee
of this Association on October 20, 1910, in favor of laying all essential
facts regarding the wool manufacture before the Tariff Board whenever
such statements are requested, and that we earnestly recommend to the
wool manufacturers of America that they make a prompt and frank
response to all inquiries of the Board, in furtherance of the most
accurate and complete understanding of the truth in regard to this great
national industry.

All we want is a square deal ; we want what our fellow citizens
get, and we want no more; and when we find the gentlemen who
make up and serve to us our news, our law, our medicines, our
religion, our transportation and our politics, opening their spleen
upon us, entrenched as they are by their location against foreign
competition, we say it comes with a very bad grace. We cannot
import immovable products. We cannot import our preaching,
we cannot import our transportation, we cannot import our law,
we cannot import our politicians, because the naturalization laws
are in the way, and we cannot import our newspapers. We pro-
test against being made the objects of malicious attacks on the
part of the people who are locally absolutely protected, while we
are engaged in industries that can only be protected legally. We
wish to present to you, gentlemen of the tariff commission and
your successors, all the facts we have in our possession, including
our wage list and all of the items of cost in connection with our

40 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUREUS.

business, and when we do that, we shall only be doing what we
have always done before.

President Wood. — I have now the pleasure to introduce
an honored friend and fellow-member, a very respected com-
petitor of yours, who I understand you sometimes feel, with
some characteristic New England zeal, is inclined to do
a little more than his share in giving the American public
serviceable cloths at low prices ; and I am told that some of
you would be quite willing that he should get as much as two
and one-half or three cents on the cost of the cloth in an
overcoat more than he now does, and if his prices were only
as high as his fine courage, what a good time we would all
have in cutting under him. It gives me a great deal of
pleasure to introduce one of the most distinguished and fore-
most members of our industry, Mr. William M. Wood, presi-
dent of the American Woolen Company.

ADDRESS OF MR. WILLIAM M. WOOD, PRESIDENT OF THE
AMERICAN WOOLEN COMPANY.

Mr. President and Gentlemen : It is with much diffidence
that I rise to speak to you, when I know what distinguished
guests are at this table. Nothing on earth could get me up on
my feet except what I believe to be the call of duty. Repre-
senting as I do the largest unit in manufacturing in this country,
both woolen and worsted, and in view of the erroneous impres-
sions that have gone abroad regarding the protection of our
industry, my remaining silent might be misconstrued or mis-
understood.

There are some things that I want to say to you to-night, and
fearing that I might forget some of them I have written them
down, and I would like to read what I have written and with
your patience I will be very brief, because the hour is getting
late.

It has recently been stated in the public prints that there was
a controversy between the carded woolen manufacturers and the
worsted manufacturers of this country over Schedule "K." I

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 41

positively deny that there is any controversy between the carded
woolen manufacturers as a whole and the worsted manufacturers.
From all that I can learn, the so-called carded woolen association
is composed of a group of small and relatively insignificant
mills, whose total aggregation of machinery I believe to be no
larger than one-half that of the carded woolen division in my
corporation. I do not brush these mills aside as inconsequential
because, although they may appear so to a larger unit, to the
owners of these mills themselves their business may mean all
they have on earth and it is therefore entitled to the full justice
that is meted out to any body of manufacturers large or small.
Indeed I believe that the weaker and poorer a man is the more
he is entitled to patience and consideration.

NO DISCRIMINATION AT ALL.

I claim that the contentions which the carded woolen associa-
tion makes are absolutely groundless. I claim that its represen-
tatives have started upon wrong premises in the argument and
therefore have reached wrong conclusions. Speaking both as the
largest carded woolen manufacturer in America, and I think iu
the world, and as a worsted manufacturer of the same compara-
tive size, there is absolutely no discrimination whatever against
the carded woolen interest in the wool and woolen schedule, as
compared with the worsted manufacturing interest. If it could
be said that there was any discrimination at all between the two
industries, the carded woolen manufacturer is really being
favored. He can import any and all wools that the worsted
manufacturer can import and the worsted manufacturer can
import any and all wools that the carded woolen manufacturer
can import. Both would like to bring in heavy shrinkage wools
from which they are debarred, but the wool growers of the west
consider that unfair. I say this subject to being wrong — that
this group of carded woolen men are not in the general sense
users of wool to any great extent. Their raw material consists
mostly of shoddy, made from rags, old and new, and from
wastes and the by-products of worsted mills. Some of them use
fleece wool ; it would be interesting to know how much they use,,
and I think it would be found surprisingly small.

42 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
A BASELESS GRIEVANCE.

Worsted manufacturers can use only straight fleece wools from
the sheep's back, and cannot and do not use wastes, shoddies,
or adulterants of any kind whatever. Worsted goods are made
from straight, clean, pure wool, without manipulation of any
kind. When I am buying wools in London or in Melbourne, on
account of the specific duty, I naturally seek for the light
shrinkage wools. Any carded woolen manufacturer has the
same privilege. He uses his wool closer and does not have to
figure the question of noils, which are the short combings from
the fleece and which the worsted manufacturer cannot use. For
these noils or short wool he pays the full price, as though it
were long fleece wool suitable for liis use. He is obliged to sell
it at a loss from that price of 33 to 50 per cent more or less.
The carded woolen manufacturer can use that product, but not
altogether, and in the case of the American Woolen Company,
we offer for sale in the open market these very noils and waste
products of our mills, and so do all the other manufacturers, and
very often they become a glut in the market — all to the advan-
tage of the carded woolen manufacturer and to the loss of the
worsted manufacturer. I cannot for the life of me see why the
few disgruntled men who form that carded woolen association
have any right to make complaint, and the fact that they are so
small a minority compared with the great number of carded
woolen manufacturers of the country who do not agree with
them, is conclusive evidence that they are in the wrong.

The president of the carded woolen association testified before
the Committee on Ways and Means of the 60th Congress on
February 10, 1909 (page 5629 of the Hearings before the Com-
mittee), as follows : " If I cannot get an ad valorem duty then I
will have free raw material."

Gentlemen, the wool manufacturers of this country as a whole
do not stand for this one-sided proposition. They believe that it
is just as essential that wool and mutton should be raised in the
United States to the greatest possible development as it is that
the clothing worn by the American people should be manufac-
tured here to the greatest possible development.

STRENGTH OF SCHEDULE K.

Schedule K, much maligned, much misunderstood, if properly
understood would be the most appreciated of any schedule in

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 43

the tariff; and if all schedules in the tariff were as scientifically
based and as well poised and balanced as Schedule K, it would
be the most remarkable document, next to the Constitution of
the United States, that the human mind has ever produced.
Schedule K protects labor in the woolen and worsted mills of
this country. It gives them the market up to a certain point —
mind you up to a certain point. Beyond that, as has already
been shown, foreign goods can enter this market, and have done
so, and did so last year to the extent, by American valuation, of
$45,000,000 of manufactures of wool. In addition to this, there
have been heavy importations of the raw material, which have
netted the Government an annual revenue of more than twenty
millions of dollars. Surely Schedule K ought to be regarded
favorably by the American people. It protects the labor of the
employees in the woolen industry ; it contributes largely to the
revenues of the country — its proper share ; and it admits
foreign manufactures of wool. What more could be hoped for ?
Are these manufacturers so protected that they become
creatures of inordinate wealth ? You can count upon the lingers
of one hand the wealthy woolen manufacturers of America. I
know of no one in the woolen business who has retired because
of wealth. The margins of profit are so close in this business
that the conduct of the business might be compared with farm-
ing in New England as against that in the West. A successful
farmer in New England must make his living right from the
rocky, sterile soil with his knuckles, whereas the great fertile
West produces abundantly and easily. The woolen manufac-
turer's competition at home is so great and the risks of the
business are so great that his margin is as that of the New
England farmer.

NARROW PROFITS OF THE MANUFACTURERS.

A suit of clothes bought for the President of the United
States yields a profit to the man who made the cloth of not over
38 cents on that suit, and these figures have been challenged by
manufacturers from Pennsylvania, who have stated to me that
their profit was less than half of that. I have seen overcoa^ts
made from the cloth of my own mills, overcoats for boys, on
which the net profit to us was less than 9 cents. I merely men-
tion these figures to show you how closely fought the woolen
manufacturing business is, and that the high price of clothing is

44 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

not due to the tariff nor yet to the manufacturer, but to the
middleman whose expenses are very great, and to the retailer,
who also has large expenses to meet in the way of rentals and
much advertising in the newspapers of the country. If the
newspapers appreciated that feature I doubt if they would raise
a single letter against Schedule K.

Mr, Theodore Roosevelt, in speaking of protection in the
Republican platform (a clause which should never have been
written in that platform) argues that protection should be the
equalization of wages here and abroad, with a reasonable amount
of profit. If Mr. Roosevelt knew the woolen business and this
matter was left to his judgment, and he understood that a suit
of clothes or an overcoat netted the manufacturer the meager
profit that it does, with all the vicissitudes and risks of the
business, he would be the one man and his would be the one
voice that would say, " It is not enough," I would be perfectly
willing to leave it to so fair a man as he, or even to our Presi-
dent, Mr, Taft,

Gentlemen, I have already taken too much of your time, and I
thank you for your attention. As Vice-president of this Asso-
ciation, I wish to take this occasion to express my deep personal
respect and high regard for the distinguished services of our
retiring President, a man only in middle life but with heavy
business cares, and it is right and wise that he should relinquish
the duties of this position in the interest of his own health.
Our sympathy, our pity, if it should be expressed, should be to
the incoming President, who has this high standard that has
been set to live up to, and he must take the flag and go onward
and upward. I congratulate the retiring President, and I also
extend my felicitations and congratulations to our new President.

President Wood. — I think no one can doubt who
should respond for the great industry of wool growing.
The distinguished statesman whom I am about to introduce
adds to his long experience in the economic aspect of the
question a practical knowledge of the business itself, and,
what is still more important from our point of view, a
thorough comprehension of the interdependence of the wool
growing and wool manufacturing industries one upon the

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 45

other. I am very happy in being able to introduce our old
and honored friend, Senator Warren of Wyoming.

ADDRESS OF SENATOR FRANCIS E. WARREN OF WYOMING.

Mr. President and Gentlemen : In every meeting of loyal
American citizens, around banquet board or elsewhere, all should
be stalwart supporters of our Government along ethical, physical,
and financial lines. Support of the Government must mean,
among other things — and most important — the annual collection
of a large amount of money for current expense, to support the
various institutions and keep moving along progressive lines all
of the Republic's great undertakings.

In accumulating necessary funds for this purpose the usual
subjects for consideration are internal revenue, customs revenue,
corporation tax, and income tax — the first two firmly established
long ago ; the third in actual operation though new and at pres-
ent before a high tribunal, the Supreme Court of the United
States, to test its constitutionality ; and the fourth and last
(much discussed in private and public, a license for which has
been under earnest consideration by the Congress of the United
States) now before the Legislatures of the several States in the
form of a proposed amendment to the Constitution.

We can all agree that customs taxes are levied for revenue for
the support of the Government and are indispensable for that
purpose. Many of us believe that customs duties should be so
levied as to be not only productive of needed revenue but pro-
tective of our great industries as well, thus enabling us to main-
tain our high position in the industrial world and to uphold the
dignity of and adequate returns for labor. Some profess to
believe that we should levy the taxes for revenue only, regard-
less of protective principles.

revenue side of schedule k.

But all must agree, finally, that customs taxes must be levied,
and in just about the amount that we now collect, or at least as
large in total, if we are to keep our Government solvent and pro-
gressive and prevent lapses backward and into debt year by year,
unless, indeed, we resort to direct TSTational taxation — a propo-
sition which no party or faction has yet espoused.

Wherefore it is that whenever and wherever wool growers

46 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

and wool manufacturers assemble, a tariff discussion is imme-
diately " on," it being claimed by both industries that the tariff
should be protective, and adequately so, if they are to survive
and continue in generous financial support of the Government.

Since the woolen industry stands second in the amount of
revenue afforded the Government, according to the latest printed
report of the Bureau of Statistics, it does not require any apology
on the score of its returns for the support of the Nation,

It seems tliat sugar alone yielded more revenue than wool and
woolens in 1909, the amount from sugar being, in round numbers,
fifty-six million dollars, while wool duties yielded thirty-three
million three hundred and sixty thousand dollars, the division
being: $17,082,000 on unmanufactured; $16,278,000 on manufac-
tured— $33,360,000 in all. And about four hundred million
dollars represent the wool duties collected in the past fifteen
years.

The proof thus submitted settles affirmatively and with
emphasis the revenue side of the equation.

Now, as to the protective features. A study of the question
convinces any one who gives it serious, continuous thought, that
Schedule K jjrotection really reaches far outside and beyond the
mere production of " raw wool," so called, and the manufacture
of woolen products.

TEN POINTS FOR PKOTECTION.

During the last thirty years the United States, under the
guidance, I assume, of an all-wise Providence or Destiny that
shapes our ends, has, along with England and some other
countries, become a great consumer of mutton. This is as it
should be, for mutton is not only among the most healthful and
palatable of foods, but its supply and consumption has greatly
assisted in maintaining our meat supply, so necessary to the
creation and preservation of the brain and brawn of the citizens
of this virile, wide-awake, and pushing Nation. Except for the
large mutton supply the price of cattle and hog products would
be far away in excess of the present prices.

So I am going to suggest the following :

First. The Government is ours, and must be supported.

Second. It takes cash to support the Government; and

Third. The money must be furnished from some source. The

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 47

best way to obtain it is to make the foreigner pay a license
for the privilege of doing business in this country.

Fourth. The laborer is worthy of his hire, and we must give
protection sufficient to insure work for all who are willing
to work, and wages sufficiently large to pay for food, cloth-
ing, and the education of children, with a little laid by for
sickness or a rainy day. This insurance we must sustain
for all of our njillions of working men and women.

Fifth. The amount of revenue from wool duties is large ; the
per-capita or per-suit-of-clothing wool duty is almost infini-
tesimal, since but two to four pounds of clean wool go into
a suit of clothes.

Sixth. Wool raised and manufactured in our own country in
the time of war is just as necessary for our soldiery as are
war-ships, arms, and ammunition.

Seventh. Cost of living will greatly increase because of higher
meat prices if our mutton supply is lessened, just as meat
will be lower if we increase that supply.

Eighth. The Merino shee]) is the origin or basis of nearly all
American flocks, and it and its crosses and grades are the
sheep most profitable to raise and most adaptable to the
plains, hills, and mountains where our largest flocks are
found, and are the sheep most affected by the tariff on wool.

Ninth. Diversified interests, agricultural and manufacturing, are
vital to the progress and high development of the nation.

Tenth. Practically all of the people of this country are pro-
ducers ; every man who works is one. All are consumers ;
but those who are consumers and not producers are the
" idle rich," who need not be taken into account.

While wool growers and wool manufacturers are sometimes in
harmony and often in hostile attitude, yet the fact remains that
wool and woolens are so associated in the tariff that we cannot
dodge, if we would, the fact of their relevancy one to the other
in considering these industries.

PARTNERS IN A COMMON INDUSTRY.

The wool manufacturer would be greatly hampered without
wool grown in this country and if dependent entirely, or nearly
so, upon foreign countries. It would be a sad condition, indeed,
for our country, and especially in time of war, if we were
dependent upon foreign countries for that most needed, if con-
traband, article — wool for clothing — which, next to food, is
most important.

On the other hand, the wool grower, without the market
afforded him by American manufacturers, would have but an

48 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

indifferent and unstable market with starvation prices for his
product. Even as it is, and as things are under our present
tariff law, manufacturers must be up-to-date, alert to business,
and possessed of sufficient capital and modern plants, to meet
foreign competition and afford the American wool grower a
market bringing anything like an adequate price.

So, quarrel as we may, wool growers and manufacturers are
really life partners, divorce not practicable regardless of incom-
patibility of temper ; and while offensive and defensive relations
and alliances may exist, yet the fact remains that we inevitably
stand or fall together.

THE HEAVY COST OF AGITATION.

During the past year the Pot has been calling the Kettle
black, and Kettle has roared back to Pot, " You're another ! "
And the shepherds, even though belligerent, have been shame-
faced and sad and have almost resurrected the reverse style of
shearing, fashionable in the Wilson-Gorman tariff times, when
they stood the sheep on their heads and commenced shearing
from the tail, to avoid looking an honest sheep in the face (after
the flockmasters had voted the Democratic ticket), instead of the
old way, standing the sheep on their haunches and shearing from
the head downward.

All of this because of the low prices of wool in the American
market caused by the vindictive, senseless, and continuous
onslaught upon Schedule K by those who are ignorant of the
facts, but are able, nevertheless, to poison the minds of their
hearers and readers.

In the meantime, flockmasters have had a most expensive and
discouraging year — or nearly two years — owing to various
causes, and you may look for less wool the coming season and a
great deal less wool and mutton the season following.

An exceedingly hard winter of 1909 and 1910 in much of the
country, followed by excessive, continuous drouth, killed millions
of sheep, cost millions of dollars for corn and hay in addition
to the usual supply, and sent millions of sheep and lambs to the
shambles and market feeding pens ; wool has been abnormally
low and flockmasters have charged off losses accordingly.

The shepherds have hoped that the weavers might render a
less doleful account of their business and might open their
hearts and purses to the absorption of the long and pathetically

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 49

neglected clip of 1910 and encourage us to again give them our
confidence and sing loud hosannas in their praise. But, " Me,
too," and " We have troubles of our own," have been their
refrains when we have narrated our losses and perplexities.

CKITICS OF SCHEDULE K.

Schedule K stands to-day not higher in duties on a single
item than for the past twelve or more years, and with some
items slightly lower ; and yet the public are made to believe
quite the contrary, thanks to the professional muckraker and their
assistant train of " would-be " — and " almost " — muckrakers.

And then here are those find-it-all-out-in-a-minute, know-it-all,
ne'er-do-well people who can, in their own estimation, conduct a
newspaper, run a hotel, or elucidate sheep growing and wool
manufacturing from their own claimed innate knowledge, plus a
few magazine articles (the writers of which were interested only
in the price per line payable for such articles). These are
always much in evidence, and have been particularly so during
the last eighteen months. They essay to tell us all about it, how
to fix it, what will be the results, et cetera, et cetera, notwith-
standing the fact that Schedule K is known to all who have under-
taken to really study it as the most intricate of all the schedules
in our tariff law.

I venture to predict that experts, even the members of our
present Tariff Board, or any tariff board or commission which
may follow and take up the business of looking thoroughly into
the industries under Schedule K, will find it necessary to take
much time, make many inquiries, and, with deep study and dili-
gent observation and consideration, take a broad view and review
of the whole situation and the interdependence of the many
industries affected and the labor interests under this schedule,
before they will put before the Executive, the Congress, or the
people of the land any plan or reconstruction bearing their
" O.K." and given with confidence that such plan will bring all
of good and naught of evil.

CONGRESS THE BEST TARIFF MAKER.

• In my opinion the United States Congress is better fitted to
frame a just tariff law than any other organization. The mem-
bers are the responsive representatives of the industries of the

50 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

country and quick to act for what it is believed are the best
interests and for the welfare of the community each represents.
Yet no part of this great country is disinterested in tariff legisla-
tion. And Congress, in theory and in fact, so far as tariff
legislation is concerned, is the legitimate, direct voice of the
people.

Nevertheless, and notwithstanding, I observe with satisfaction
that those who have been intrusted with this work of tariff
investigation now going on have, and during the past season,
commenced a line of research among the wool growers, and if
they have not yet commenced among the manufacturers I trust
they may not fail to reach them in due time ; and my advice to
both growers and manufacturers is, throw everything wide open
for their examination. The truth, if the whole truth, is good
enough for wool growers, and I indulge the hope and confidence
that this must be relatively true with the manufacturers.

'Tis said " the proof of the pudding is in' chewing the string."

We have no millionaires or even semi-millionaires among flock-
masters who accumulated their fortunes in sheep and wool rais-
ing alone ; and my information is that the multi-millionaires or
even plain millionaires are about as scarce as hens' teeth among
those whose entire business has been the manufacture of all wool
and woolen goods. And yet the industries are the most ancient
in history. In fact, we read much of sheep and wool in that
Good Book — the staff and comfort of the shepherd — the Bible.
Prom the very beginning the Bible seems to have drawn from
this industry symbols of excellency, purity, and honesty of
purpose.

And so, while I hold no commission as adviser to either the
sheep raisers or wool manufacturers, yet I will venture modestly
to offer a bit or two for consideration ; and the advice I have to
give is this :

SHOW ALL THE FACTS.

"Whenever a member of tariff board or tariff commission or
other authorized agent comes to investigate, either with a search
warrant or with merely a smile and request for information, give
it up to him freely — even tumultuously if occasion requires.
You wool growers, show your books. If you have not kept a set
of books scientifically, give the net business balances and results ;
and in giving the results of what you have made or lost in years

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 51

past, predicate as closely as you can what the future may have
in store considering the changes in price of land and condition of
grasses on the range, the necessities of more, and stronger, and
better winter feed, and so forth. Give the inquirer every point
and fact within your knowledge — for you have nothing to hide.

The sheepmen of the country, taken as a lot, have not become
wealthy or even •' forehanded " through wool growing.

And you who are manufacturers, discard all little fibs and
fallacies, if such have prevailed in interviews heretofore, and per-
mit the agent to examine your books and works — confidentially,
of course — and let the whole process pass before him, from the
raw wool to the final net returns on the product sold. Drop the
retailing of such little fibs as that which has been reiterated over
and over again by some wool dealers and some manufacturers,
more especially carpet men — that we do not grow any carpet
wools in the United States ; that the wool which we import under
the heading " third-class " is for carpet manufacture only ; that
no part of the imported "third-class" goes into fabrics other
than carpets, and hence there should be no duty on *' third-class,"
and so forth.

The wool grower knows better. He knows that we do grow,
in parts of the United States, some carpet wool — although, as a
matter of fact, it is entirely immaterial whether we do or not,
because for every pound of imported so-called carpet wool, third-
class, that is used for clothing, blankets, or other purposes, that
same quantity of higher-grade wool which we raise is displaced ;
and, for that matter, every pound that is imported and used for
carpets outright, displaces a pound of our wool that would other-
wise be used for carpets.

CARPET AND CLOTHING WOOLS.

Furthermore — and I make no complaints — carpets are the
most and best protected manufactures under the schedule, so let
us " fess up " and no longer ask for free third-class wool.

The proof is so plain that considerable quantities of third-
class wool are used for other than carpet purposes that one can
readily find in the trade journals of to-day, when looking for
current market rates, articles like the following — I will quote
from the "Boston Transcript " :

Buyers of finer grade carpet wools for better than carpet

52 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

purposes are willing to pay asking prices for selections, and all
available stocks find a ready market.

Again :

Some manufacturers have made up lines in which the percent-
age of the higher grade carpet wools have been mixed with low
grade clothing wools and the result is a fabric that has the
appearance of regular goods, although it has not the " feel " of
the straight goods.

I allude to these trifling foibles only in order to bring out the
proposition that we must, in this year of Our Lord Nineteen
Hundred and Eleven, and at all times, afford and even seek the
ut^nost publicity and invite and assist in the most drastic examina-
tions, when made in good faith by representatives of our
Government.

MAGNITUDE OF THE INDUSTRY,

Latest statistics show the following :

Total number of sheep in the world, less than 700,000,000

Total number of sheep in the United States 57,216,000

Or about one-twelfth of the whole number.

Total wool product of the world 2,952,782,955 lbs.

Total wool product of the United States 321,362,750 lbs.

Or about one-ninth of the whole production.

Total wool consumption of the United States over 500,000,000 lbs.

Over one-sixth of the product of the world.

The United States consumes far more wool than any other
Nation in the world.

People differ widely sometimes in computing wool statistics
because of the difference between grease wool and scoured wool ;
but the figures I have given represent quantities, computed in
the usual and accepted way.

Shall we then lose our sheep through failure to properly
protect, and rely solely on foreign countries for our wool supply?
If so, how long will it be after our sheep are gone before the
foreigner will raise the price, send us cloth instead of wool, and
leave our labor unemployed and our factories standing idle as
monuments to our folly ?

Touching the importance of wool growing in our own country
with which to supply our mills, I quote the following from the

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 53

report of the Revenue Commission appointed in 1865 to consider
and report upon our entire revenue system. The members of the
Commission were from Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Pennsyl-
vania. Personally, they were not particularly interested in wool
growing or manufacturing ; but in the exhaustive report they
made upon all the matters submitted for their consideration, they
reported among other things concerning wool problems, the
following :

The home production of wool is necessary to render us prop-
erly independent of foreign powers, in peace and in war, in
obtaining our supplies of an article on which the lives and health
of all of our people depend. It is necessary to National
economy, for no great agricultural country can afford to import
its most important and costly raw material.

And —

Finally, it is necessary to extend and complete the circle of
diversified industries on which the wealth and independence of
nations so much depend.

A LOOK BACKWARD.

Regarding our mutton supply : Early history tells us that, in
the vicinity near by, when a slave owner rented out his slaves
tinder contract to those requiring assistance in manual or skilled
labor, it was quite usual for the bond to stipulate that the said
slaves should be " found " — that is, with bed and board and
sometimes with clothing as well — during their period of
employment ; but these contracts protected the slaves against
being compelled to eat terrapin and canvas-back duck more than
twice in any one week. This, because terrapin and canvas-back
duck were so plentiful and in such low esteem, the avaricious
employer was apt to force terrapin and canvas-back duck upon
the unoifending employees instead of furnishing good wheat or
Indian corn bread, Irish potatoes, and the other more expensive
foods.

In the light of to-day, with terrapin from a dollar to two
dollars and a half per portion, and canvas-back duck from two-
fifty to five dollars each in this fair hostelry and others, it seems
hardly possible that such contracts could have been necessary.

Now, my friends, after looking backward and seeing the
change along the terrapin and canvas-back duck lines, suppose
we look into the future, as to mutton chops, saddle of mutton, etc.

54 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Whereas terrapin and canvas-back duck formerly cost nothing
but the catching, and had no real money value, they have now
become luxuries, with prices at the top notch; and by that same
token mutton, comparatively low in price and within the reach
of all to-day, would, under the tender mercies of our free-trade
friends, become a delicacy as rare and perhaps higher in price
than the terrapin and canvas-back duck of to-day.

We of the West who used to fight off the deer, bear, ante-
lope, and other game, to keep them from eating up prospective
gardens, hay stacks, and even our camp provisions ; who knew
the time when it cost but a moment with a gun and a steady eye
to provide a month's or several months' meat rations for the
family, often smile at the prices quoted in the metropolitan
market at Christmas season or in the cold of winter, when
venison or bear meat is offered at extreme prices.

But mutton at a dollar a pound may be the heading of the
advertisements of the market man in the not distant future, if
wool should be made free.

WOOL MUST BE PROTECTED.

I have heard the specious arguments advanced that we could
prevent this kind of a happening by raising, considerably, the
tariff on coarse wools, supposed to grow on mutton sheep, and
reducing the tariff on the fine wools, and thereby greatly
increase our mutton product in this country and depend upon
the foreign countries for our wool, where it is alleged they are
bound to grow finer grades for centuries to come.

Well, gentlemen, upon what experience, upon what history of
the past, upon what tendency of the present, can we expect a
result of this kind in the future ?

First, we must chalk down the fact that practically there is
no longer an extensive public domain for grazing purposes. It
has been so generally absorbed that what is left is largely either
in forest, the " bad lands," the rocky regions of the mountains,
or the frazzled edges and isolated patches that fill in the ground-
work of the map, spotted over with homesteaders and farmers
who have absorbed the water and watering places in the arid
region and almost, or quite, the entire territory outside those
regions.

Whereas a few years ago we were exporting millions upon
millions of bushels of wheat, we now find ourselves in danger

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 55

of becoming considerable importers in order to provide for the
growth of our population from natural causes and immigration.

We have been making great efforts to reduce our imports of
sugar, and very considerable areas have, in the past few years,
passed from grazing land into intensively cultivated tillage
land through the application of irrigation, and sugar beets grow
now where sheep grazed before.

And so on as to corn, potatoes, and other crops, all of which
are more profitable than sheep under present conditions and
state of public mind.

Go, if you please, to the other countries ; the British Isles, for
instance, where they raise a superior class of mutton. There
wool growing is not engaged in as a business, but wool is a
by-product ; and the sheep grown there form only a part of the
mutton supply for home consumption.

At this late date in my life, after having been interested in
sheep raising since my earliest remembrances — born, as I was,
in a factory village in Massachusetts where wool was both grown
and manufactured — and after having forty years' experience in
wool growing in the Rocky Mountain country, to my mind it is
not so much a question why we have not increased our flocks
more than we have, as it is why they have not decreased with
free wool at one time and under numerous tariff changes and
continual fear of the future.

CANNOT ENDURE LOWER RATES.

It has also been my observation that wool manufactures have
languished, and idle mills have been in evidence, and the wool
growers' market nearly or quite destroyed, whenever the tariff
on wool manufactures has been less than at present.

And I give you my solemn assurance that I believe as firmly
as I believe that night follows day and day follows night, that
the sheep growers of this country cannot successfully continue
their business with less protection than Schedule K now affords
them, however you may change or regulate it, and that if any
changes are to be made to meet existing or altered conditions or
circumstances, if terms or rate^ relative to the imposition of the
tariff are to be made different, they must not be lessened and
ought to be increased in the net clear to the wool grower, if we
are to have uninterrupted continuance of that industry beyond
the keeping of a few straggling bunches of mutton sheep, as now

56 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

kept in New England and the Middle States where wool is a
by-product and early lambs and high-priced mutton are the incen-
tives to sheep raising, and where formerly large flocks of merino
and other well-wooled sheep were grown for their wool pro-
duction.

It is alleged by some doctrinaires that if we should reduce the
tariff on fine wools and increase it upon the long mutton wools,
we would cause a change from the growth of fine wool sheep to
that of greatly increased numbers of mutton sheep.

A theory of this kind is the quintessence of ignorance and
impertinence. The merino sheep is the basis of our whole struct-
ure of wool and mutton growing in this country. We can
indulge in various gradings, cross-breedings, and so forth, up to
a certain proportion or degree, beyond which we cannot go if we
wish to succeed in the sheep business.

Sheep raising, as we all know, has decreased in the older and
eastern States in late years, and has increased only in the far-
western or prairie States. In the latter States the sheep are
handled or grazed in large herds, and the habits of the merino
sheep and its crosses insure the banding together and the non-
separation beyond reasonable lines of the flocks so grazed. But
to undertake to graze, as we do in the West, the thoroughbred
coarse-wool sheep, like the Cotswolds, Lincolns, and Leicesters,
is impossible. We might as well undertake to herd a band of
deer or elk. They are long-legged, swift-footed, independent,
and will graze only in small bunches.

CANADA AS A WARNING.

In this country, to insure the raising of sheep in large numbers
for the carcass itself, with the fleece a by-product, land and
labor will have to become far cheaper than now, or mutton will
have to be far more expensive.

We find an exemplification of this in the country just north of
us where land and labor are cheaper than here. The President's
recent message to Congress transmitting the Canadian reci-
procity scheme contains the following :

The question of the cost of clothing as affected by duty on
textiles and their raw materials — so much mooted — is not
within the scope of an agreement with Canada, because she
raises comparatively few wool sheep, and her textil'e manufac-
tures are unimportant.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 57

Canada, with England to nourish and protect her, with cheap
land and labor, is authoritatively quoted by our President, Mr.
Taft, as unimportant in her textile manufactures and her sheep
industry. Are our textile industries in the United States unim-
portant ? Is the wool growing industry of our country unimpor-
tant ? Why this difference in our favor ? Because of the past
benefits of Schedule K, with all its alleged faults, and because of
what has been demonstrated under that schedule in the past few
decades by our vigilant, virile, ubiquitous manufacturers and our
stalwart, never-say-die, patient, and long-suffering wool growers.

Is it a safe and sane policy to admit free of duty articles
which we must have, on the assumption that prices to the con-
sumer will be less ? If so, then how about coffee ? When we
removed the import tariff a foreign country taxed up against us
a virtual export tariff and our prices were no less, while we lost
the revenue.

And how about hides ? The President had not signed the
Payne-Aldrich tariff bill, making hides free, when Argentina
promptly advanced hides 10 per cent ; and after the law was
signed and launched, a further addition was imposed, so that
hides were no lower — were indeed higher for a time — and
shoes, boots, harness, and saddles upon which we had been
offered — nay, guaranteed — a reduction by the apostles of free
hides were, in fact, increased.

A SATISFACTORY RECORD.

It is often asked why, with the protection afforded wool, the
sheep of this country have not increased faster, especially in
view of the fact that we consume so much more wool than we
grow, and the further fact that our manufacturers have provided
mills enough, and perhaps even more than are necessary, to weave
all of the finished product needed by the nation.

Answering this I would say there are various reasons : First,
wool growing has not been sufficiently profitable, the world over,
to enable the world's production of wool to keep up with the
world's demands for woolen fabrics. This is shown as follows :

World's shrinkage in total number of sheep in the last fifteen
years, 40,000,000 head.

World's increase in population during the same period, nearly
100,000,000.

Again : While the population and demand for woolens are

58 NATIONAL, ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ever increasing, the acreage of land does not increase; and with
a growing population the necessities for land for other purposes
than grazing become greater, and the grazing land of the last
year becomes the cultivated field of this ; and so on.

As to the United States : While the total number of sheep
in the world has decreased in the past fifteen years, as stated,
40,000,000 head, yet statistics show that the number of sheep
in the United States has increased during that same period
from less than 38,000,000 head, worth but $65,000,000, to
over 57,000,000 head, worth more than $233,000,000, thus
showing an increase in numbers of 50 per cent and an increase
in value of over 250 per cent — and this, too, notwithstanding
the uncertainty of the tenure of protective legislation ever pres-
ent, and never more so than during the year last past.

Truly a good showing for fifteen years !

As to woolen factories, they, like railroads and highways, once
built are seldom abandoned ; and even though they may earn but
a trifle as compared with their cost, still an owner must proceed
with the use of his mill or suffer total loss of mill and machinery
through rotting down in idleness.

With sheep it is different. They are movable, and if too
unprofitable they are sent to the shambles, the business closed,
and the loss apportioned.

Give us adequate, unchanging, guaranteed protection, and more
and better cultivated land will be used for sheep growing and the
sheep of the United States will double, or more than double, in
numbers — which would fully supply the wool requirements of
the American people.

For instance : During the period from 1864 to 1884, twenty
years, the wool clip of the country increased nearly two and one-
half times, or increased from 123,000,000 to 300,000,000 pounds.
During that time, however, the people were not, each and nearly
every one, after Schedule K with an axe, but all supported it as
necessary to our growth and development.

President Wood. — It is peculiarly fitting that we should
have with us to-night the eminent and scholarly Senator in
whose constituency is the greatest wool manufacturing indus-
try of this country. I have great pleasure in introducing
Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, Senator from Massachusetts.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 59

ADDRESS OF SENATOR HENRY CABOT LODGE OF MASSA-
CHUSETTS.

Mr. President and Gentlemen : Let me in response to your
very cordial reception at once relieve your minds by saying that
no one has stolen my manuscript, for I have never had any. I
was struck by the remarkable confidence of Mr. Harding when
he said he trusted the newspapers to print what he had to say.
In a somewhat extended experience I have found that if I trusted
too far to the palladium of our liberties, it was very apt to be the
case that I found something that I had not said, and that I
certainly ought not to have said.

1 do not propose at this late hour to detain you longer than for
a moment. It is rather a shock to find myself in the presence
of an audience that does not regard any one who voted for
Schedule K as an outcast. During the late little contest that we
had in Massachusetts, wliich involved the great principle of
retaining in public life trained public servants, I think the most
severe critics I had were a branch of your industry. When
people who do not know much about an industry are told that
the price of their clothing has been advanced by a schedule which
has not been changed, I can understand their feeling that a
wrong has been committed and ouglit to be righted ; but it is
very difficult to comprehend the attitude of a portion of an indus-
try which receives all the benefit of the protection accorded to
the woolen industry by Schedule K, assailing everybody who,
believing that they were doing on the whole what was best for
the interest of the country, voted for it, and assailing them
because something was not done which, as they thought, would
be of slight benefit to their own industry. That is an attitude
which I have found it hard to understand.

the tariff commission.

The single point I want to make to-night is one that has been
alluded to by Mr. Harding and others, in reference to the tariff
commission, in which I have come to take a very great interest.
And I will say frankly that I was converted to the need of a
tariff commission by my experience in making the last tariff. I
have been through five tariff revisions, all very pleasant, but I
never took actual part in making a tariff until I had the honor to
serve on the Finance Committee in the making of the last bill,

60 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

and it then became very clear to me that it was of great impor-
tance to have information gathered by some board or commission
of experts who were not personally interested in any industry,
and to whose report the people of the country would give entire
confidence.

I am a protectionist by conviction and by principle. I have so
much faith in the system that I believe that nothing would
strengthen it so much or assure its continuance and its stability
so much as the facts being made known to the people of the
country. I want some machinery which will bring those facts
before the people of the country in a way which cannot be dis-
puted. The committee worked hard, as I have reason to know,
both in the House and in the Senate, and the investigations of
the Committee of Ways and Means extended over a year's time.
They gathered all the information they could, as they always do.
In their consideration of a tariff bill they hear many witnesses,
and a great deal of the information is very valuable, but the
information necessarily comes and the testimony is necessarily
given either by the producers or by the importers, or by gentle-
men who want to make their raw material free, when their raw
material is some other man's finished product, and the general
impression is left on the public mind that none of the testimony
can thoroughly be relied on, that it is more or less colored by the
inevitable interest of the witnesses ; I do not believe improperly
colored or perhaps intentionally so, but that it is more or less
colored by the interest of those who give it.

Now if we can gather that information — and that is what the
duty of the tariff commission will be — so that it will carry
conviction to the people of the country, it will be in my judgment
the best support the protective system can have. It is for that
reason that I have supported and now support strongly the plan
of a tariff commission. I do not believe for a moment that it
will lead to instability. I believe it will have directly the
opposite result.

LET us HAVE THE FACTS.

We have heard here to-night that the duties do not more than
represent the difference in costs. It is for the interest of this
industry to demonstrate that to the country through the labors
of an honest Government commission, on whose report the
country will rely. I believe that nothing can be done that will

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 61

be of more value to the stability of the tariff, of more value to
the continuance of the policy of protection, than to furnish that
precise information in the way I have suggested. It does not
make any difference whether it is called a board or whether it
consists of three or five. The thing is to get the information
before the country. Let us have the facts. I believe the facts
will sustain the principle in which I believe, and I have myself
no question of the result.

It has been a very great pleasure to me to-night to hear from
Mr. Harding and others, the suggestion that you open the books,
and that you show to the tariff commission, who will not disclose
any of the secrets of the business, precisely what the costs are.
You will do more in that way to convince the American people
of what the difference in labor costs is than in any other way ; and
when they are satisfied that the duty does not more than cover
the labor costs and assure a fair margin of profit, the people of
this country will overwhelmingly stand by you. However they
may be misled here and there by temporary cries, I believe they
know now perfectly well that the level of wages is higher in
this country than in any other country in the world and without
the protective tariff that level cannot be maintained. That is
the whole of the protective theory, as I see it.

President Wood. — Employer and employee alike owe a
debt of everlasting gratitude to one who has stood in these
times of public hysteria as a bulwark against much of the
ill-conceived legislation and criticism with which we have
been threatened; and the gentleman whom I am now about
to introduce to you is one we honor not more for his great
qualities of mind and heart than we love for the enemies
that he has made. I desire to introduce Speaker of the
House, Hon. Joseph G. Cannon.

ADDRESS OF SPEAKER CANNON.

Mr. Toastmaster and Gentlemen : Only a very few
words, and they shall be plain and truthful so far as I have
knowledge of the truth.

I am not a schedule sharp. Perhaps from the standpoint of
personal efficiency I would not know the merits of a schedule if

62 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

1 should meet it in the street. It has been my business for
almost forty years to put the money on the wheel, not to gather
it. I have followed those who have made a specialty of ques-
tions relating to the getting of the revenue, and who from
their committee assignments and their investigations have been
in a position to know more about those questions than I do. If
anybody thinks that the man lives on this round earth who can
go into the American Congress, in a country that produces sub-
stantially one-third of all the products of all the civilized world,
and monopolize the whole thing, he is badly mistaken.

I went into Congress nearly forty years ago, without much of
any kind of knowledge. I read a little of John Stuart Mill and
a little of Adam Smith. I said, ''I must do something to
qualify myself" and I turned up a wild-eyed freetrader, with
the old stock arguments that Christ died for all, all mankind are
brethren, commerce knows no boundaries, and so forth.

I fovmd in a little time that it was a practical question ; and
after a little experience, being a Republican, my surroundings as
well as my investigations showed me that I would get the best
results and that all the people would get the best results by my
casting my vote along the line of the Republican policies, and
that at least during the development and growth of the country,
as we had only barely scratched it, and have only yet barely
scratched it, with a population, of less than 40,000,000 people
when I went into Congress, up now to more than 90,000,000, and
in the future to 400,000,000, we could best serve our interests in
a government by the people if we svibstantially monopolized our
own markets by products of our own labor.

I followed McKinley and others and voted for the McKinley
tariff law. I followed Dolliver, I followed Dingley and others
and voted for the Dingley bill. And lo, what have the people
worked out under the provisions of that law ?

BEST OF ALL TARIFF LAWS.

Then came the Payne-Aldrich bill. I grew to know a little
more about the schedules for myself, but I followed Payne, and I
followed the Committee of the House, and finally when the com-
promise was made I voted for the bill. It was not perfect, but I
agree with the present President of the United States in his
Winona speech that it is far and away the best revenue law that
was ever made in the history of the American people, and thank

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 63

God, whatever others may have dojie, through evil and through
good report, in making my contests, in my feeble way I have
stood with my face to the enemy, saying it was right, and not
apologizing for it in any respect.

Soft words butter no parsnips. If there is weakness amongst
the friends of protection and in the Republican party to-day, it
has come as a result of trimming our sails and trying to satisfy
the dissatisfied who, if you could satisfy them to-day, would be
doubly dissatisfied to-morrow. I do not know what is to happen
in the near future. I know what will happen in the swing of the
pendulum of the twentieth century. As the old pass out and
the new feed in, they have got to learn by experience. There are
some people in the United States who read the headlines of a
sensational press, which headlines give the lie to the sensational
articles and despatches that follow. There are enough of such
people in this country who can only be educated in the hard
school of experience, who will from time to time make a politi-
cal revolution, and who will only learn through their stomachs
what they cannot learn through their heads.

We are vip against it now. The people at a popular election
have given, under all these conditions, a Democratic majority of
sixty-seven in the House of Representatives, with great gains in
the Senate. For Champ Clark personally I have great respect,
but he does not belong to the same school of thought or belief
that I do, and God knows what will happen when the House of
Representatives under the leadership of Champ Clark, booted
and spurred, sends a tariff bill over to the Senate. I do not
know, gentlemen of the Senate, what you are going to do with it.
Do you ?

Now I will drop that right there. I speak with high respect
for everybody connected with the Government, and yet I have
the same opinion of men, whether they occupy one position or
another, and it is of the very essence of our institutions that we
speak with absolute plainness. I always had great admiration
for Peter Cartwright. When he was speaking at the Methodist
Conference in Nashville, Bishop Basconi pulled his coat tails and
said, "Be keerful. General Jackson is coming down the aisle."
Old Peter turned and looked Bascom in the face and said, " Who
is General Jackson ? If he don't repent, God Almighty will
damn his soul as quick as he would that of a Guinea nigger.'^
I like a plain-spoken man.

64 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

CANADIAN RECIPROCITY.

The Constitution of the United States provides that the
House of Representatives shall originate revenue bills, and that
the President, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate,
shall make treaties. We have lately had a so-called commercial
agreement, but a treaty in fact, that does not go the Senate, but
comes primarily to the House with schedules complete not
originated by the House of Representatives. It may be wise, it
may not. In a month we are called upon to enact it into law.
I do not know what we are going to do. There are many ques-
tions involved. I see some gentlemen from California here.
With citrus fruits and southern fruits as they are produced in
this country to go into the Canadian markets free and vice versa,
I want to ask the gentlemen from California, under the most
favored nation's clause in the treaty with Spain, and with Italy
and other countries, if they come and agi-ee to take that same
treaty — and in so far as I know and believe there is no reason
why they should not — where is your protection ? It takes
time to consider these questions.

And if from Canada there come cattle, sheep, and hogs on
foot free into the United States, what answer will you make to
one-third of the population in this country, the farmers, on the
proposition that if those same cattle, hogs, and sheep are knocked
in the head and scalded, and treated for a day in a slaughter
house in Canada, and then shipped into the United States two
days afterwards, there is a duty of a cent and a quarter a pound
\ipon them, and all that people may have cheaper living ?

I only voice my own opinion, with high respect to everybody.
I measure my words when I say that a proper adjustment of our
revenue laws will only come from a compromise that fairly cares
for the industries of all our people, whether on farm, in mine,
or in factory. High sounding words in a sensational press will
not avail when, all over this country, we look our constituencies
in the face, if we have legislated unwisely. So far as I am con-
cerned, I am not a Senator. I am in the House. With all the
work there is to do in this Congress, in less than thirty days, I
do not believe that by legislation originating in the House and
to be considered in the Senate we can safely do so great a work,
turning double somersaults and going hop, skip, and jump. If it
turns out a blessing, all right ; but if it turns out a curse, the

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 65

same newspaper press that yells and howls for all this kind
of thing will turn its tune and sing a different song and march
on to further muckraking contests, and we shall receive the
condemnation.

President Wood. — "Whatever opinions may have been
held by those in our industry regarding the wisdom of the
creation of a tariff board or commission, and however we may
have marvelled at the possibility of the accomplishment of the
great purpose set before them, many of our doubts have been
resolved, and our confidence has been greatly strengthened
by the manner in which the present board have gone about
their work, and by the very clear and explicit statement of
principles which the Chairman of that board made upon a
recent occasion. There has been so much said in regard to
the subject of the tariff board or tariff commission this even-
ing that it is only right that we should ask the Chairman, I
was going to say Professor Emery, but he particularly cau-
tioned me against that, and so I will ask him to say a few
words to us before we part for the evening.

ADDRESS OF CHAIRMAN EMERY OF THE TARIFF BOARD.

Mr. President and Gentlemen : I understand that you are
a very much maligned organization. I have read many dastardly
attacks upon you, and until the last hour I never believed them.
Now I am convinced that they are all true. I say that because
in asking me to speak after Senator Lodge and the Speaker of
the House and the others who have spoken here to-night, I look
upon it as a plain frame-up to put the tariff board in wrong.

Mr. Harding said that anybody who went into the woolen busi-
ness was sentenced for life. Up to date the tariff board has not
been sentenced for life. We are mucli in the position of Senator
Young of Iowa who in going to the White House the other day,
and being delayed for some time in getting to see the President,
remarked to Mr. Norton, "for heaven's sake get rae in before my
term expires." So I feel at this late hour to-night that my
term may expire before I say anything that I want to.

Q6 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

I had thought of saying something regarding what the National
Association of Wool Manufacturers could do for the tariff board.
If I should speak more than two minutes at this time of night,
I am sure I can say what your Association would do to the tariff
board. I will simply say this one thing, without going into
details, that frankly many things are said about you gentlemen
by all kinds of people, which we know to be absolute rot. We
want to be perfectly reasonable. I was reasonable to-night when
I was dressing hastily to come down here, and was putting on
my shirt. It came all to pieces, the cuffs were frayed, it tore
out in various places, but I did not have time to change the
studs, and I had to get into it somehow, and it will come to
pieces very quickly as soon as I get my clothes off. If I had
been a writer for a popular magazine, I would have laid it all to
Schedule K ; but applying to the problem the common sense and
reasonableness that should become a member of the tariff board
I said to myself, "Why should this tattered and disgraced ban-
ner of Schedule I be laid at the door of Schedule K ? "

On the other hand, there are all kinds of things said about
other people that are not so. There are all kinds of insinua-
tions made about other peoples' motives. Those insinuations
are made about your motives. It is assumed by some people
that anybody who gives any credit to any statement of a woolen
or worsted manufacturer who is interested in Schedule K must
have the wool pulled over his eyes, that he cannot be an honest
man if he listens to anything that these people say. On the
other hand, there are certain people interested in Schedule K
who believe that if anybody listens to any critics of that schedule
or tries to get any information from anybody else, tries to get
all sides of the case, that he is a traitor in some way, or that he
is not working from honest motives, that he is somehow having
special strings pulled behind him. Why can we not cut all that
out? Why can we not recognize on all sides that it is not worth
while to continue this back-biting, this insinuation, this attempt
to hit the other fellow somewhere, in order to make him the
goat, because he happens to be willing to listen to somebody
whom the other person does not like.

EXACT TRUTH THE GOAL.

It seems to me that we can play the game in a perfectly fair
way, that everybody ought to recognize it, that anybody in

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 67

public life is bound to listen to the fair statement of anybody
else ; and if that person is not making a fair statement, it is
proper to check it up, to find out from somebody else why it is
not fair and wherein it is misleading and misguiding, and it
seems to me that we can eliminate a great deal of all this ill-
feeling to which I have referred. Let us forget the magazines,
let us forget the papers. Let us get down to brass tacks and
cases, where everybody deals with everybody else in a perfectly
fair spirit, and recognizes that the motives of the other man are
decent and honest.

As far as the tariff board is concerned, we recognize with per-
fect equanimity that we are going to get it any way. We feel
perfectly certain that whatever we report as facts will not seem
to certain people to be facts ; because it is very hard for a man
to see facts which may not exactly fit his particular and imme-
diate needs. We want to be checked up on our facts. We
recognize that our spectacles may be colored, and when they are
colored we want to know it, and we want to know it from the
men who know the facts. We want to know it from the men in
the business. They are the men who know what they are talk-
ing about. As I have said before, you cannot go to a university
to get facts about a business. You cannot go to a barber shop to
get facts about a business. You have got to get your facts from
the men in the business and talk with all of them, and we want
them to help, and that is the best way in which they can help.

But whatever we do we know perfectly well that we are going
to be criticised probably by all sides, and we face that with some
little courage at least. We feel that we shall go ahead and finally
put in a bill which will read like the bill I got last summer from
an old sea captain who came down in a big storm when it was
raining and blowing and helped me to get out an anchor to hold
my boat. He was very kind about it, and I told him to send in
his bill. He said he would not send in any bill for helping a
man in trouble. I said, " that is all right, but you have spoiled
your Sunday clothes, and you must send me some kind of a bill."
So he sent his bill and the first item on it, which I think will be
the first item on ours, was " to getting a good soaking, fifty
cents."

The President. — There are many other gentlemen
present from whom we all would like to hear this evening,,

68 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

but owing to Washington's unfortunate custom of dining
late, we had to begin so late that the time has come when it
is impossible to detain you longer. I must therefore bring
the meeting to a close, first reminding you that all who can
find it possible are to meet to-morrow at nine forty-five at the
office of this hotel, for the purpose of paying our respects to
the President. This closes the proceedings of the evening.

In addition to guests seated at the head table the follow-
ing-named gentlemen with others were seated at the other
tables and participated in the enjoyment of the occasion :

Andrew Adie, Silesia Worsted Mills, Boston.

Wm. Anderson, Philadelphia, Pa.

T. W. Andrews, Philadelphia, Pa.

C. F. Avery, Mauger & Avery, Boston.

C. J. Bodfish, Wood Worsted Mills, Lawrence, Mass.

Jacob F. Brown, Brown & Adams, Boston.

J. E. Bailey, Jr., American Woolen Co., Boston.

W. W. Burch, " American Sheep Breeder," Chicago, 111.

C. S. Bottomley, Rockville, Conn.

Wm. E. Brigham, Washington, D.C.

Hon. Arthur L. Bates, Meadville, Pa.

Louis Baer, Eisemann Brothers, Boston.

John W. Burt, Philadelphia, Pa.

F. A. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa.

E. K. Bready, Philadelphia, Pa.
H. H. Bosworth, Philadelphia, Pa.

Thos. H. Ball, Wissahickon, Philadelphia, Pa.

Benj. Bullock, Philadelphia, Pa.

Fred M. Blackstone, Jr., Thos. H. Ball & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

Oscar 0. Bean, Doylestown, Pa.

James Bateman, Justice Bateman & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

F. S. Brewster, Andrews Mills, Philadelphia, Pa.

H. W. Butterworth, H. W. Butterworth & Sons Co., Philadelphia,

Pa.
H. S. Bottomley, Howland Croft Sons & Co., Camden, KJ.
J. J. Baughman, Susquehanna Woolen Co., New Cumberland, Pa.

FORTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 69

Everett H. Brown, Germantown, Pa.
Wm. Burgess, Trenton, N.J.

William J. Battison, National Association of Wool Manufac-
turers, Boston.
Richard Campion, Philadelphia, Pa.
W. R. Cordingley, Woonsocket Worsted Mills, Boston.
Willard A. Currier, Ayer Mills, Boston.
C. H. Clark, " Textile Manufacturers Journal," Boston.

F. H. Carpenter, American Woolen Co., Boston.
Edmund Corcoran, Philadelphia, Pa.

C. L. Connelly, Philadelphia, Pa.
H. W. Corson, Philadelphia, Pa.

G. W. Coffin, Philadelphia, Pa.

Joseph Coleman, Coleman Brothers, Philadelphia, Pa.

John J. Collins, Philadelphia, Pa.

J. W. Croft, Howland Croft Sons & Co., Camden, N.J.

Travers D. Carman, New York, N.Y.

W. B. H. Dowse, Pres. Home Market Club, Boston.

F. G. Dunbar, Lowell, Mass.

J. G. Doak, Philadelphia, Pa.

Walter Erben, Erben-Harding Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

Harrington Emerson, Szepesi & Farr, New York, N.Y.

J. Fred Essary, Washington, D.C.

A. G. Elliott, J. Williams & Co., Boston.
H. S. Edwards, F. Willey & Co., Boston.
Fred Eick, Saxonia Mills, Philadelphia, Pa.
Alban Eavenson, Camden, N.J.

Geo. K. Erben, Erben-Harding Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

E. H. Emmott, Emmott Worsted Spinning Co., Chester, Pa.

Frederick C. Fletcher, Pocasset Worsted Mills, Boston.

H. A. Francis, Pontoosuc Woolen Mfg. Co., Pittsfield, Mass.

L. H. Fitch, Wm. Whitman & Co., Boston.

Fredk. W. Flather, Boott Manufacturing Co., Lowell, Mass.

W. H. Folwell, Folwell Bros. & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

John Fisler, Yewdall & Jones Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

S. B. Fleisher, Philadelphia, Pa.

B. W. Fleisher, Philadelphia, Pa.

Samuel Fleisher, S. B. & B. W. Fleisher, Philadelphia, Pa.
Edward A. France, Philadelphia Textile School, Philadelphia, Pa.
A. E. Gill, Dewey, Gould & Co., Boston.
Louis B. Goodall, Goodall Worsted Co., Sanford, Me.

70 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Edwin Farnham Greene, Pacific Mills, Boston.

L. Gardiner, Rockville, Conn.

George Grant, Grant Yarn Co., Fitchburg, Mass.

Chas. Greaves, Philadelphia, Pa.

John Greaves, Philadelphia, Pa.

Thomas Greaves, Germantown, Pa.

Jas. S. Gould, Philadelphia, Pa.

F. N. Graves, Boston.

E. M. Hecker, " Fibre and Fabric," Boston.
George C. Hetzel, Chester, Pa.

Franklin W. Hobbs, Arlington Mills, Boston.
George H. Hodgson, Cleveland Worsted Mills Co., Cleveland, 0.
Frank Hartley, Harry Hartley & Co., Inc., Boston.
Conrad Hobbs, Hobbs, Taft & Co., Boston.
W. T. Haines, Oakland AVoolen Mills, Waterville, Me.
Capt. J. R. R. Hannay, U.S.A., Quartermaster's Dept., Washing-
ton, D.C.

F. J. Hogan, Washington, D.C.

S. Ainsworth Hird, Samuel Hird & Sons, Inc., Passaic, KJ.

C. A. Hardy, American Woolen Co., Boston.

J. H. Herman, New York, KY.

William H. Henry, Camden, N.J.

J. D. C. Henderson, Philadelphia, Pa.

Frank S. Harrison, Philadelphia, Pa.

Thos. Hornsby, Thurman Mfg. Co., Germantown, Pa.

A. S. Harding, Philadelphia, Pa.

F. L. Harding, Philadelphia, Pa.

James Hulton, Hulton Dyeing & Finishing Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

William Hetzel, G. C. Hetzel & Co., Chester, Pa.

Fred Irland, Washington, D.C.

H. C. Jealous, American Woolen Co., Boston.

Vaughn Jealous, American Woolen Co., Boston.

Edward Jefferson, Edward Jefferson & Bro., Philadelphia, Pa.

H. J. Janos, Bristol, Pa.

J. Koshland, J. Koshland & Co., Boston.

J. F. Kesseler, Swift Wool Co., Boston.

Henry T. Kent, Clifton Heights, Pa.

Geo. W. Kritler, Philadelphia, Pa.

Geo. M. Kerr, A. J. Webb & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

James Lister, Centredale Worsted Mills, Centredale, R.I.

John Lorance, Washington, D.C.

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 71

S. R. Latshaw, Mgr. Curtis Publishing Co., Boston.

Harry Liebmann, Hecht, Liebmann & Co., Boston.

Ezra Lund, Landeuburg, Pa.

Wm. V. Leech, Bristol, Pa.

H. C. Lawrence, Philadelphia, Pa.

Oliver N. Long, Philadelphia, Pa.

J. W. Landenberger, Philadelphia, Pa.

Harry Lonsdale, F. A. Bockman & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

Walter Levering, Camden, N.J.

John W. Levering, Philadelphia, Pa.

Percy A. Legge, Philadelphia, Pa.

H. S. Landell, Philadelphia, Pa.

William Long, Philadelphia, Pa.

F. W. Manning, Luce & Manning, Boston.

Francis T. Maxwell, Hockanum Co., Pockville, Conn.

J. F. Maynard, Globe Woolen Co., Utica, KY.

F. H. Metcalf, Farr Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass.

Henry C. Martin, Farr Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass.

H. E. Mabbett, Geo. Mabbett & Sons Co., Plymouth, Mass.

F. R. Masters, American Woolen Co., New York, N.Y.

Samuel C. Murfitt, Boston.

Robert Maxwell, Hockanum Co., Rockville, Conn.

William Maxwell, Hockanum Co., Rockville, Conn.

Jerry A. Mathews, Washington, D.C.

Arthur B. Maynard, Utica, N.Y.

John W. MacLean, Utica, N.Y.

E. J. Millspaugh, Utica, N.Y.

James McCutcheon, J. G. Carruth & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
H. W. Marion, Brooklyn, N.Y.
Mr. Mcintosh, Philadelphia, Pa.
Andrew McAllister, Philadelphia, Pa.

Winthrop L. Marvin, National Association of Wool Manu-
facturers, Boston.
John W. Nary, Princeton Worsted Mills, Trenton, N.J.

F. V. Oakes, Thomas Oakes & Co., Bloomfield, N.J.
David Oakes, Thomas Oakes & Co., Bloomfield, N.J.

A. M. Patterson, Patterson & Greenough, New York, N.Y.
F. Nathaniel Perkins, Boston.
William Price, Arlington Mills, Boston.
Charles Porter, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa.
Geo. B. Pfingst, Philadelphia, Pa.

72 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

John W. Pechin, Philadelphia, Pa.

Fritz Quittner, Philadelphia, Pa.

W. H. Richardson, Wm. Whitman & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

W. H. Reed, Boston.

Joseph S. Rambo, Norristown, Pa.

A. L. Robertshaw, Fern Rock Woolen Mills, Philadelphia, Pa.
Mr. Reinthal, Cleveland, Ohio.

Geo. Rommel, Philadelphia, Pa.

William F. Read, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa.

Arthur Schwarz, Princeton Worsted Mills, Trenton, N.J.

B. F. Smith, American Woolen Co., Boston.
J. L. Schultz, American Woolen Co., Boston.
Eugene Szepesi, Szepesi & Farr, New York, N.Y.
George B. Spencer, New York, N.Y.

F. W. Swindells, Rock Manufacturing Co., Rockville, Conn.

H. M. Schofield, Quartermaster's Department, Washington, D.C.

S. H. Steele, " Textile Manufacturers Journal," Philadelphia, Pa.

Edgar C. Snyder, Washington, D.C.

Mr. Stuart, Washington, D.C.

Robert J. Studley, Goodhue, Studley & Emery, Boston.

Chas. F. Sloan, Philadelphia, Pa.

D. W. Shoyer, Philadelphia, Pa.
John H. Seal, Philadelphia, Pa.

L. S. Schaffer, Thos. Wolstenholme & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

E. C. Schmidt, Cleveland, Ohio.
Mitchell Stead, Philadelphia, Pa.

C. B. Smith, Star Worsted Co., Lawrence, Mass.
William A. Suits, J. Williams & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
Ernest R. Townson, Philadelphia, Pa.

Jackson Tinker, Philadelphia, Pa.

Edwin Wilcock, Boston.

John G. Wright, Boston.

E. E. Whitman, Wm. Whitman & Co., New York, N.Y.

Malcolm D. Whitman, Wm. Whitman & Co., New York, N.Y.

Wilbur F. Wakeman, American Protective Tariff League, New

York, N.Y.
C. J. H. Woodbury, National Association of Cotton Mfrs., Boston.
P. C. Wiggin, American Woolen Co., Boston.
J. Clifford Woodhull, American Woolen Co., New York, N.Y.
Allen H. Wood, Wood, Putnam & Wood, Boston.
Penman J. Wood, Philadelphia, Pa.

FOKTY-SIXTH ANNUAL MEETING. 73

Samuel W. Whan, Philadelphia, Pa.

Max Winkler, Philadelphia, Pa.

Thos. H. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa.

Louis Walther, Philadelphia, Pa.

Hollis Wolstenholme, Philadelphia, Pa.

Harry Why, Why Bros. & Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

Chas. T. Webb, Philadelphia, Pa.

Ernest G. Walker, Philadelphia, Pa.

John H. Walker, Philadelphia, Pa.

Edgar Weil, Philadelphia, Pa.

Alfred Wolstenholme, Germantown, Pa.

74 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

WOOL GROWERS' CONVENTION.

FORTY-SEVENTH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE NATIONAL
ASSOCIATION AT PORTLAND, OREGON.

The forty-seventh annual convention of the National
Wool Growers Association was held at Portland, Ore., on
January 4, 5, 6, and 7, 1911 — a good representative gather-
ing of Western wool growers, with some visitors from among
the wool merchants and manufacturers of the East. Hon.
Fred. W. Gooding, of Shoshone, Idaho, the President, deliv-
ered his annual address, and communications were read from
Secretary James Wilson, of the Department of Agriculture,
Senator Francis E. Warren, of Wyoming, and others. Sena-
tor Warren said :

Regretting exceedingly that public business here prevents us
from participating in the labors and pleasures of your meeting, I
beg you to accept my kindest regards for the Association and all
its members. Happy New Year and all good wishes for wise,
harmonious and fruitful consideration of matters pertaining to
the wool industry and your deliberations at the Portland meet-
ing. Notwithstanding the past hard winter, the following dry
summer and an exasperating wool market, we should not lose
heart nor courage nor cease our efforts for future successes in
the business nor our efforts for a protection of our industry.
With twice as much wool imported as we really needed in 1909,
and the constant attacks on Schedule K, we have had a long
tedious season, with uninteresting and unprofitable market, but
if my judgment and power of prophecy are not wholly wrong,
our wool market will strengthen with the new year. With a
united front against foreign invasion of our markets and against
repeal of our protective laws, we shall win in spite of yellow and
muckraking papers and periodicals, and against what is still
worse, the vicious attacks of doctrinaires who know little or
nothing of Schedule K, and still less about the expense and risks
connected with the wool-growing industry. Earnestly desiring to

WOOL GROWEKS' CONVENTION. 75

cooperate and to have the benefit of the native judgment of our
old, honorable, able and battle-scarred National Wool Growers
Association.

This vigorous message was loudly applauded by the con-
vention.

The resolutions adopted read, on the subject of the tariff,
as follows :

We reaffirm our belief in the American system of protection, and
unequivocally indorse the application of its principles as embodied in
the present arrangement of Schedule " K," as applicable to the wool
duties, and recognize that every time departure has been made from
the principles therein contained, serious disaster has befallen the indus-
try of wool growing. The growers of wool need and deserve pro-
tective duties equally with the manufacturei-s of wool.

Both classes feel the competition of the cheap labor of foreign
countries, and both are dependent upon the taritf for their prosperity,
and, indeed, for their existence.

We recognize that in the wool and woolen duties, the West, the East,
the North and the South are united more closely than in any other
portion of the tariff law, and we call upon our Senators and Represen-
tatives in Congress to present a united front against foreign invasion
of our markets and resist to the utmost all attacks of vicious doctrinaires
upon the protection that shields this National industry.

Pending the investigation of the tariff board, appointed by President
Taft, tariff agitation should cease until such time as the findings of the
board are reported. The wool growers court the fullest opportunity
of submitting to the tariff board all information relating to the cost of
production in their industry, and in this connection we commend and
heartily support the work being done by the American Tariff Commis-
sion Association.

We indorse unreservedly the magnificent services rendered by Senator
F. E. Warren, whose splendid record in the framing of Sehedule '* K,"
in the Payne-Aldrich law, is now a matter of history, and we hereby
enroll him in our regard with those grand champions of the wool-
growing industry, represented by Blaine, McKinley, and Dingley.

Resolved, That a committee be appointed by the president, with the
consent and approval of the executive committee, of which the presi-
dent shall be ex-officio chairman, to represent the National Wool
Growers Association in matters pertaining to tariff' legislation, the
membership of the committee to consist of members of the National
Wool Glowers Association from representative wool-growing districts.

76 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The duties of said committee shall be to collect, collate, and compile
data of cost of pi'oducing wool, and to pi'esent such data to the tariff
board, with the view of demonstrating that wool growers are entitled
to a protective tariff such as will permit them to continue business, this
committee to be authorized to meet the said tariff board and legislative
committees, whenever it may seem advisable, and to be authorized and
empowered to represent the National Wool Growers Association at
such meetings.

The officers elected were :

President: Hon. Frank R. Gooding, Gooding, Idaho.

Western vice-president: George Austin, Salt Lake City, Utah.

Eastern vice-president: A. J. Knollin, Chicago.

Executive Committee: Arizona, F. W. Pei'kins, Flagstaff; California,
F. A. Ellenwood, Red Bluff; Idaho, F. J. Hagenbarth, Spencer; Mon-
tana, J. B. Elliott, Great Falls; Nevada, Thomas Nelson, Stonehouse;
New Mexico, H. F. Lee, Albuquerque ; Oregon, Jay Dobbin, Joseph ;
Washington, Frank R. Rotherock, Ellensburg.

The election of secretary was left to the executive committee, who
selected Dr. S. W. MoClure, of Pendleton, Ore. The office of the
secretary will be located at Gooding, Idaho. Omaha was chosen as the
place for holding the next meeting.

The new President, Hon. Frank R. Gooding, has been
Governor of Idaho and is a very able and successful sheep
breeder and a man of great enterprise and strength of
character. During the trial of Haywood and the other
miners accused of conspiring to murder. Governor Gooding
received more than three hundred letters, threatening him
with death unless the trial were abandoned, but he never
flinched.

Dr. S. W. McClure, the new Secretary of the National
Wool Growers Association, is a native of Pennsylvania, and
a graduate of the Veterinary Department of the University
of Pennsylvania. He has been for several years in the
service of the United States Bureau of Animal Industry,
and has a fine, expert equipment for his present work.

WOOL GKOWEHS' CONVENTION. 77

LETTER FROM WILLIAM WHITMAN.

Among the important papers presented at Portland was a
letter from Mr. William Whitman, President of the National
Association of Wool Manufacturers, who said :

National Association of Wool Manufacturers,

Boston, December 22, I'JIO.

Mb. Fked. W. Gooding, President,

National Wool Growers Association, Shoshone, Idaho.

Dear Mr. Gooding : I have received from your Secretary,
Mr. Walker, an invitation to attend and address the annual
gathering of the National Wool Growers Association at Port-
land, Ore., on January 4-7, 1911, and regret to have to reply
that it is entirely impossible for me to be present.

The National Association of Wool Manufacturers is with per-
haps one exception the oldest organization in the United States
representing any one of our great National industries. We have
had a continuous, active existence of forty-seven years. Both
worsted and carded woolen interests are included in our member-
ship. The statement that the National Association is made up
exclusively of worsted manufacturers, which you may hear
echoed at Portland, is wholly false. Associated with us are the
leading men of the carded woolen as well as the worsted branch
of our industry. Only an insigniticant fraction of the carded
woolen manufacturers of the country — and tliese chiefly former
advocates of free wool — have joined the enemies of protection
in attacking the present tariff.

It is the purpose of the foes of the protective policy to divide
and thus conquer our common industry, if they can. They
realize, as our enemies always have done, that the wool and
woolen tariff. Schedule K, is the keystone of the arch of the
American protective system. If they destroy this or displace it,
they hope, as they always have hoped, that they may detach the
agricultural West from the manufacturing East, and thus com-
plete the destruction of the protective policy.

These enemies of ours, and of yours, are quick to take advan-
tage of the existing depression in the wool and woolen industry
to attempt to poison the minds of the West against the East.
The relatively low prices at which wool is just now sold are
being cited as an indictment of Schedule K. But why an indict-

78 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

meut ? The new tariff does not change the wool paragraphs by
so much as the dotting of an '' i " or the crossing of a " t." The
duties which protect you are left exactly as they were during the
twelve years of the Dingley law, from 1897 to 1909, and sub-
stantially as they were from 1867 to 1894, and the only altera-
tions made in the entire schedule by the Aldrich-Payne law were
small reductions on certain manufactures.

The present tariff rates have absolutely nothing to do with the
discouraging conditions which prevail among the wool growers of
America. These discouraging conditions are the direct result of
the agitation against the new law and especially against Schedule
K by certain forces in our political life, led, I am sorry to say,
by some Middle Western Senators and Representatives. You
have your champions, and they are strong and able men.
Nobody could battle more bravely and consistently than they
who are your real friends and are working to defend your
interests. But I am stating a truth which all acknowledge when
I say that the principal source of discontent and assault upon
the existing tariff is the agricultural States of the Middle and
further West. There is where the so-called " insurgency " finds
its liveliest inspiration and its firmest foothold.

You are wondering to-day why you can get no better prices
for your wool. I can tell you ; it is because some Western poli-
ticians by their reckless and selfish course have almost destroyed
your market. These are the men who have been proclaiming
month after month that Schedule K '' robbed " the American
people ; that it compelled them to pay excessive prices for
inferior clothing, and that the whole schedule ought to be radi-
cally reconstructed. Now these men are exultantly pointing to
the recent Congressional elections as proof that it ^vill be so
reconstructed.

Let us analyze the situation step by step. The average
American citizen hears the politician declaiming against Sched-
ule K ; he reads similar denunciations in the magazines and
newspapers. He needs a new suit for himself or clothing for
his wife and children, but this malicious agitation influences him
to postpone his purchase. " I'll wait," he says, " for this reduc-
tion of the tariff. Then I shall get American clothing more
cheaply. Perhaps if the tariff is reduced far enough, I can get
the foreign clothes which the politicians and the editors declare
are so much better than American."

WOOL growers' convention. 79

So the man waits ; he does not buy. The retail clothing or
dry goods merchant consequently does not sell, and not being
able to sell does not order new goods, or orders only in small
quantities, from hand to mouth, as it were, from the .clothing
manufacturer. The clothing manufacturer or wholesale mer-
chant in turn orders sparingly or not at all from the manufacturer
of the cloth. The cloth manufacturer in turn, with his machinery
operating only fitfully, or idle, does not need much wool. So
prices of wool decline, and the wool grower is disappointed.

Thus the industrial cycle runs. The mischief starts with the
tariff-hating politician, newspaper or magazine, but the wool
grower is the ultimate victim. Senseless agitation for immedi-
ate and radical tariff changes has cost the wool growers of this
country nearly $20,000,000 in reduced prices of this year's
domestic clip — and the chief authors of this calamity are some
Western Senators and Kepresentatives in Congress. There is
nothing the matter with Schedule K. It is substantially the
same schedule that gave prosperity to wool growers and wool
manufacturers under the Dingley law. It would bring pros-
perity to all of us now if these rancorous attacks upon it
ceased. Those politicians who are encouraging the American
people to believe that Schedule K is going to be quickly over-
thrown, and foreign fabrics made of foreign wool sold cheaply
on every street corner, are your enemies as they are our enemies.
They denounce us chiefly but they are hurting you as well. For
the experience of forty-four years of wool tariffs has demon-
strated beyond the shadow of a doubt that American wool grow-
ing and American wool manufacturing are interlocked and
interdependent interests — the indispensable parts of a great
common national industry, and that men cannot strike one part
without injuring the other also.

You have already some faithful champions in Congress. I
can give you no more urgent or valuable counsel than to insist
that all other Western public men consider and defend your
welfare, or if they will not, that the West send men to Washing-
ton who will.

Very truly yours,

William Whitman,

President.

80 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUREES.
STATEMENT OF WILLIAM M. WOOD.

Mr. William M. Wood, President of the American Woolen
Company, said in his communication :

Boston, Mass., December 28, 1910.

To THE Officers and Members of the National Wool
Growers Association.

Gentlemen : If I could do so, nothing would give me more
pleasure than to attend your annual convention and greet you
face to face, in response to your kind invitation. But I cannot
do this, and, therefore, have put down in writing some of the
things I should like to say if I were so fortunate as to be able to
be present at Portland.

A distinguished member of Congress, in a recent address,
declared that he respected alike the firm protectionist and the
frank, consistent free trader. Both were honest men. But he
had no patience with the man who wanted protection on his prod-
ucts and free trade in the materials he consumes. As a matter
of fact, in a sense there is no such thing as a raw material. The
materials of one industry are the finished product of another,
and all the productive industries of the United States are alike
entitled to fair and reasonable protection from the government.

I believe in adequate protection for wool manufactures, but I
believe equally in adequate protection for the wool itself. Do
not let any mischief-makers delude you into the notion that we
manufacturers of the East are trying to take undue advantage of
you in tariff legislation. The men who attempt this are no real
friends of yours or ours, and whatever may be their motive it is
certainly not any disinterested desire for the welfare of either
the wool manufacturers or the wool growers of America.

Now a word about the company of which I am head. It is the
largest wool manufacturing concern under a single management
in this country or the world. It owns and operates 34 mills,
making worsteds and carded woolens — a total of 34 mills out of
the 1,213 in the United States. The Assabet Mill at Maynard,
Mass., is the largest carded woolen mill in existence. As a large
carded woolen manufacturer, I do not feel that the specific duty
on wool discriminates against us. We have no difficulty in
securing materials. We have equal access with the worsted

WOOL GKOWERS' CONVENTION. 81

manufacturers to wools of all kinds. I fail to understand why a
few carded woolen manufacturers should find the situation so
much different from all the rest of us.

The American Woolen Company, with its 34 mills, though a
great corporation, is not a trust or a monopoly. There are nearly
1,"Z00 American woolen mills, many of them large ones, in other
hands, outside of our company, not owned or controlled in any
way by us. Ours is an intensely competitive industry. No one
concern monopolizes its activities, and in my judgment none ever
will.

Now, I suppose you would like my opinion about the much
debated Schedule K. I will tell you. The schedule is not
perfect. No important part of the tariff ever has been or proba-
bly will be perfect. But Schedule K, as it now staifds in the
Aldrich-Payne law, changed in only a few minor points from the
Dingley law, is honest in its intent, fair in its classification, and
not excessive in its general range of duties — as demonstrated by
the fact that our imports of wool manufactures, on a duty-paid
basis, were ^43,819,000 in the fiscal year 1910, as compared with
$34,327,000 for the year preceding. Every yard of those
imported fabrics was made of foreign wool. If all this enor-
mous quantity had been manufactured here it would have created
a so much greater market for the wool growers of America.

Schedule K, as it now stands, embodies the best work and
wisdom of many of the ablest statesmen of our time. Morrill of
Vermont, father of the protective system as we know it ; Sherman
and Lawrence of Ohio, Allison of Iowa, McKinley of Ohio,
Aldrich of Rhode Island, Warren of Wyoming, Smoot of Utah,
Blaine, Reed, and Dingley of Maine — these men and others have
helped in the framing and development of the schedule that for
forty years has protected alike the American workers who grow
the wool and those who spin and weave it. The schedule is often
referred to as a difficult, complicated one. As a matter of fact, it
is built upon a simple, orderly plan — a logical process of evolu-
tion. There is, as you know, a duty of 11 and 12 cents a pound
on clothing wool and 4 and 7 cents on coarse carpet wools. For
these duties compensation is provided to the manufacturers —
and the compensatory duty, though often denounced as excessive
in amount, is no more, I can assure you, than is necessary on the
relatively fine fabrics in which American manufacturers come
into the severest competition with the manufacturers of Europe.

82 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Beyond the compensatory duty there is an ad valorem protec-
tive duty upon yarns, a higher duty on cloths and dress goods,
increasing with their value, and the highest duty of all, or 60 per
cent, upon finished clothing. This is substantially equivalent to
the highest duty on silk goods or similar manufactures of cotton,
both of these industries having their materials on the free list.
As compared with the remainder of the tariff, and in view of the
peculiar difficulties and hazards of the wool manufacture. Sched-
ule K is not conspicuously high, but no portion of the tariff has
been subject to such persistent and vicious misrepresentation.

America is the greatest wool consuming country in the world.
Our people are better clothed than any other. This is the largest
and richest market for wool and its manufactures. The chief
impelling motive of the vociferous attacks upon Schedule K can
be traced back to the jealousy and greed of the manufacturers of
Europe and their perniciously active agents in the United States,
between whom and the great home market here Schedule K
stands as a stout and difficult barrier.

In 1894, and for the three years thereafter of the Gorman
"Wilson law. Schedule K was temporarily broken down, and
foreign jealousy and greed were amply satisfied. Your wool was
on the free list. Our fabrics were reduced. Europe and not
America ruled the domestic market. In three years you lost
10,000,000 of your sheep and $60,000,000 of their total value.
We manufacturers saw nearly one-half of our woolen market in
1895 taken away by our cheap-wage foreign competitors.

Have you or we forgotten this ? Do you desire a repetition
of that experience ? Ought not one such object lesson to be
sufficient for a century ? The same forces which brought over-
whelming disaster upon wool growers and wool manufacturers
alike in 1894-1897 are at work again. Their first effort is to
arouse discord between West and East, between the two branches
of our common industry. The aim of our foes now, as it was
seventeen years ago, is first to divide and thus to conquer. Shall
we let them succeed ?

Yours very truly,

Wm. M. Wood,
President American Woolen Company.

WOOL growers' convention. 83

LETTER OF A. D. JUILLIARD.

Mr. A. D. Juilliard, of New York, the distinguished merchant
and manufacturer, said :

Mr. George S. Walker, Secretary,

National Wool Growers Association, Portland, Ore.

My Dear Sir: Deeply regret that I cannot be present at the
Forty-seventh Annual Convention of the National Wool Growers
Association, at Portland, Ore., January 4 to 7, 1911.

As a user of large quantities of wool, it affords me pleasure to
send greetings and Godspeed to the National Wool Growers.
An important part — much the most important, I should say —
of your deliberations in annual convention assembled will natur-
ally relate to the preservation of adequate protection for the
yiehl of your flocks. Experience has demonstrated the fact that
without protection the industry of sheep and wool growing must
languish and ultimately disappear. In the absence of adequate
tariff duties that shall take account of the lower labor cost in
foreign wool-producing countries, you cannot stay in the business.
It is to the interest of the whole nation not only that you should
stay in the business, but that tlie business of supplying wool and
mutton for American consumption should be made attractive to
American farmers.

Napoleon Bonaparte, chewing tlie bitter cud of reflection upon
the horrors of the disastrous winter campaign in Russia, when
his soldiers perished by thousands for lack of warm clothing, is
said to have exclaimed : " Spain has twenty-five millions of Merino
sheep. I wish that France had a hundred million ! " If France
had had a hundred million sheep, the story of that terrible retreat
from Moscow need never have been written.

The United States has about fifty-seven million sheep. I wish
we had three times fifty-seven million sheep. Then we should
be independent of foreign supply ; then we should have enough
wool to clothe our population of one hundred million ; then we
should have three times the present supply of mutton, which
would go far toward solving the troublesome problem of high cost
of food supplies.

If there is to be any interference with the present satisfactory
tariff on wool, I would rather the change should be toward higher
duties than toward lower duties. But I hope the tariff on wool

8-i NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

will not be disturbed. I would like to see adequate protection
for wool positively assured for the next ten years. Then we
should see an enormous increase in the growing of sheep for
wool and mutton. Then the millions of acres of abandoned farms
in the Eastern States would come into profitable use once more,
this time as grazing land for millions of sheep.

I wonder if the " reformers " and other enemies of the wool tariff
ever stop to think how little the wool duties amount to on the
average suit of clothes. It requires twelve pounds of unwashed
wool to produce a suit of clothes. Assuming that we use foreign
wool exclusively, the wool tariff on one suit of clothes would be
$1.32 ; but even this small amount is not correctly stated, because
the competition of the domestic product affects the price to the
ultimate consumer.

Eecently I have seen a statement by one of the largest pro-
ducers of woolen textiles in this country showing that in an over-
coat selling for $15 there were two yards of cloth for which the
manufacturer received 82 cents a yard, or $1.64, on which the
profit was not more than 8 or 9 cents.

There is no community of interest, as generally understood,
between the wool grower and the manufacturer, but there is an
interdependence and a mutuality, where tariff protection is at
stake.

Both the wool grower and the woolen manufacturer must have
protection. The two branches of the industry — wool growing
and wool weaving — must stand shoulder to shoulder in resisting
assaults upon protection.

Manufacturers will profit by an increased supply of domestic
wool, and sheep growing will profit by the certainty of a steady
and profitable market.

In January, 1908, two manufacturers of woolens called upon
me and requested my cooperation in securing a reduction of the
duties on wool. I told them, in effect, that I not only would not
cooperate with them, but that I would rather raise the duty on
wool than lower it.

It is a well-known fact that the population of the world is
increasing more rapidly than the production of sheep. Now, if
we let the foreigner produce our wool and mutton, he will
eventually control the market.

I am in favor of protection which begins where it ought to

WOOL growers' convention. 85

begin, Avith the wool grower, and in due proportion extends to
the manufacturer.

Very truly yours,

A. D. JUILLIARD.
LETTER OF THEODORE JUSTICE.

Theodore Justice, of Justice, Bateman & Company of
Philadelphia, sent the following letter :

Philadelphia, December 10, 1910.
Mr. George S. Walker, Secretary,

National Association of Wool Growers, Cheyenne, Lar-
amie County, Wyoming,

My Dear Mr. Walker: In my message to the wool
growers, the hrst thought that I now wish to express is, that the
menace to the industry by the President's proposition to revise
the tariff one schedule at a time is the greatest that has occurred
since the free wool period. This idea of revising the tariff one
schedule at a time was originally promoted by the Democrats,
and was repudiated by the nation at the time of General Har-
rison's election in 1888. It is the most dangerous and damaging
proposition to an American industry that was ever made, and it
was again repudiated by the nation at the time of McKinley's
election in 1896. President McKinley at that time held to the
theory that all industries depending upon a protective tariff for
their existence should stand together, shoulder to shoulder. His
words, often used on these previous occasions, were : " These
industries, if united, may stand, but if divided they will surely
fall," and this great recommendation of President Taft's to revise
the tariff one schedule at a time, if adopted, would be the death
knell of the sheep industry, for by this process that industry
would be annihilated.

I wish to call the attention of the wool growers to the following
statements, viz. : The advantages to the American people of
Schedule K have been so great that the $355,000,000 customs
duties collected during the past twelve years have never cost the
American people a single dollar, for the following reasons :

Schedule K has stimulated the flocks, so that the sheep have
increased in number from 37,000,000 in 1897 to 57,000,000 in

86 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

1910, an increase of 54 per cent, which is likewise a corresponding
increase in the mutton supply, and this increase has been so
great that it has lowered the price of all kinds of flesh food to
the American people to an extent to far exceed in value the
$355,000,000 customs duties collected up to this time under
Schedule K.

Second, the money paid to American wool growers for their
wool in the past five years has more than liquidated all of the
duties collected under Schedule K at the custom house since 1898.
Third, the wages paid to the men and women working in mills
that manufactured wool in only four years has exceeded by
f 50,000,000 all the duties collected under Schedule K since 1898.
Furthermore, if it be true, as some political economists claim,
and I agree with them, that every dollar paid out in wages, in
passing from hand to hand in the purchase of the necessaries
of life, circulates on an average at least ten times during the
year, any one who is inclined to figure can thus see that the
$355,000,000 collected at the custom house has caused to be put
in circulation a vast amount of money, reaching into billions of
dollars, and it is this that has made the American market the
greatest in the world. The magnitude of this can only be esti-
mated or realized by contemplating the calamity of the restric-
tion of the purchasing ability of the people by the withdrawal of
the vast wealth that has been created for this nation through
the operation of Schedule K. This schedule is more closely
related to the personal comfort of every man, woman and child
than any other schedule in the tariff law.

These are only a few of the many other proofs that Schedule
K has never cost the American people a single dollar.

Another proposition is this : Theodore Roosevelt has endorsed
the suggestion of Gifford Pinchot to divorce business from poli-
tics, and if we may judge by the result of the recent Congres-
sional election, the wool growers of the United States have taken
this advice.

The people of the wool-growing sections in the recent elections
have permitted some of our most useful public servants to be
ruthlessly sacrificed, and among them have been their very best
friends and most effective workers in Congress in defence of the
invaluable sheep industry. The wool growers, by their actions,
have thus exposed their throats to the knife.

My message to the wool growers of the United States is to

WOOL growers' convention. 87

cement hereafter more closely their business relations with their
politics, and unless they do, their industry will be annihilated.

Among the many friends in Congress who were conspicuous
champions of the wool industry, and who were slaughtered in
the recent contest for such necessary and adequate protection as
would preserve the sheep and wool industry from destruction,
were the Hon. Ralph D. Cole, representative from Ohio, and the
Hon. Thomas S. Carter, senator from Montana. The loss of
Senator Carter at this time is one of the greatest misfortunes to
the wool growers, as he and, perhaps, two others were counted
on as the main bulwarks in the Senate to check and hurl back
the assault upon the wool industry that was sure to come from a
Democratic House of Representatives, which has been elected
through a popular but mistaken and indefensible clamor for a
reduction in wool duties, which probably would never have
occurred but for the encouragement given to the enemies of the
industry by President Taft's unfortunate allusion to Schedule K
in his Winona speech.

Every man, woman and child must suffer from the decrease in
the production of our flesh-food supply and in the reduction of
the supply of our wool.

The present high cost of living to-day is due in part to the
reduction of the duty upon wool to 10 cents per pound under the
law of 1883. When that law went into operation we had about
918 sheep to each 1,000 of population ; at the end of that period,
when the destruction of our sheep was halted by the election of
President Harrison, the number of sheep had fallen to 697 per
1,000 population, a decrease of 24 per cent since the repeal of
the war tariff, carrying the adequate protection of practically 12^
cents per pound.

This occurred when the labor cost of growing wool was from
one-fourth to one-third less than it is to-day, so that in this
popular cry for a reduction in the tariff upon wool, we should
remember that, as like causes produce like effects, a return to the
10 cents per pound duty upon wool will be followed by a more
rapid reduction in the number of sheep per 1,000 of population
than before.

After the law of 1883, with its inadequate protection to wool
in the duty of 10 cents per pound, the McKinley act followed,
which lasted only about four years, but the number of sheep
under the adequate protection of the McKinley act increased to

88 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

712 per 1,000 of population. Paralleling the decrease of 24 per
cent under the 10-cent duty of the law of 1883, with the increase
under the 11-cent duty of the McKinley act, we have a demon-
stration of the fact that 11 cents per pound is the lowest duty
upon wool that will maintain our sheep industry.

The McKinley act was followed by a brief period of four years
of no duty at all, and up to the time when the Dingley act was
passed in 1897, the number of sheep per 1,000 of population had
fallen to 528, a decrease of 26 per cent in less than four years of
free wool, and if this decrease had not been arrested by the
present Schedule K, which went into operation in 1897, the
United States in a short time would have been practically with-
out sheep.

Part of the high cost of living to-day is due to the destruction
of so much of our flesh-food supply during the free-trade period,
while the population that consumed the flesh-food was increasing.
We were then burning the candle at both ends, and we are now
paying the penalty in a higher cost of living, in which every
member of our race is involved.

The McKinley duties of 11 cents per pound were reenacted in
the Dingley act of 1897. That law has been in force ever since,
and during that period, say between 1897 and 1910, the number
of sheep per 1,000 of population has increased to 626, an increase
under the present Schedule K of 18J per cent.

To save the sheep industry, the wool growers must impress
upon the public the importance of the duties that will sustain
the flesh-food supply.

Yours truly,

Theodore Justice.

ADDRESS OF JOSEPH R. GRUNDY.

One of the important speakers before the Portland con-
vention was Mr. Joseph R. Grundy, of William H. Grundy
& Co., of Philadelphia, who brought the greetings of the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers. Mr. Grundy
said :

WOOL growers' convention. 89

Mk. Chairman and Members of the National Association
OF Wool Growers :

It has been a purpose of the National Government to collect
duties from wool and woolen imports for the past century of the
country's existence. During the first fifty years of this period
the duties which were levied by the Government varied accord-
ing to the geographical control of public affairs. When South-
ern men were strong in Congress they were influential in having
a pretty fair duty for those times on wool ; when New England
and what was then the West was in charge, they took care of
the manufacturer and were not so much interested to see that
the grower had what was coming to him, and so this matter see-
sawed backward and forward to the great detriment of the indus-
try, both as to wool growing and wool manufacturing, until the
breaking out of the Civil War, The needs of large revenue to
prosecute that great struggle led to heavy taxation in every
direction.

Justin S. Morrill, of Vermont, was Chairman of the Ways and
Means Committee at that time. Being desirous that each sub-
ject for taxation shoukl contribute the maximum of revenue, he
changed a large share of the duties on imports from ad valorem
to specific rates, and in considering the wool duties placed a
specific duty on wool, and, by an arrangement original with him-
self, placed such compensatory duty on wool in goods as to place
the industry of wool manufacturing on all fours, as if it had free
wool.

As the war progressed more money was required and increased
revenues were necessitated. In the tariff act of 1864 wool
duties were largely increased ; compensatory duties, as arranged
by Mr. Morrill, were increased in proportion. During this
period all industry in the country was very prosperous, the
Government was a large buyer of all kinds of material and
issued all kinds of money, and the fact of our having a war shut
out imports, privateering swept our commerce from the seas, and
what was needed in this country and for prosecution of the war
was of necessity produced here. Under this stimulus wool grow-
ing and wool manufacturing very rapidly developed.

THE revenue commission OF 1865, 1866.
The year 1865 found the war at an end and the Congress of
the United States confronted, among other things, with the

90 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

reconstruction of the finances of the Government on a peace basis.
Preliminary to this work there was appointed a revenue commis-
sion, consisting of three men : Samuel S. Hayes, of Illinois ;
David A. Wells, of New York, and Stephen Col well, of Penn-
sylvania. Those men reviewed the laws for the purpose of
reducing the revenue to the then necessary expenditures and in
this work their first concern was to not disturb the splendid
industrial prosperity or reduce the high standard of wages,
which, during the war, from conditions above described, had
been brought about.

There was no industry in the whole revenue commission's
report that received from them more thoughtful consideration
than did that of wool. Having in mind its checkered history
prior to 1861 and being desirous of avoiding the errors which,
prior to that time, had so seriously retarded its growth, they
called a joint meeting of your National Association of Wool
Growers and the National Association of Wool Manufacturers.
This joint meeting convened at Syracuse, N.Y., in December,
1865. The executive committees of the two associations were
in continuous session over six months, reviewing from every
standpoint the questions concerning the raising of wool, the cost
of same, and the necessary legislation required for the pro-
tection of the wool manufacturing industry.

A HARMONIOUS REPORT.

The report of the joint committee of the two associations
touching the wool problem will doubtlessly be interesting to you,
and from it I read as follows :

We have pointed out considerations which render sheep .hus-
bandry highly important to our national interests. There are
others which are almost too obvious to require mention. The
home production of wool is necessary to render us properly
independent of foreign powers, in peace and in war, in obtaining
our supplies of an article on which the lives and health of all our
people depend. It is necessary to National economy, for no
great agricultural country can afford to import its most important
and costly raw material, especially from countries which take but
little raw or manufactured commodities in return. It is neces-
sary, in the already quoted words of the executive committee of
the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, to furnish "the
first and always the chief dependence" of our woolen manufac-
tures. It is necessary to supply our people with strong, service-

WOOL growers' COMVENTION. 91

able cloths in the place of the comparatively weak and
unserviceable ones manufactured from much the larger portion
of the cloth wools now imported. Finally, it is necessary to
extend and complete the circle of diversified industries on which
the wealth and independence of nations so much depend.

The report of the two executive committees of the National
associations of our industry was unanimously adopted by their
associations, and after having been reviewed by the Revenue
Commission was certified by them to the then Secretary of the
Treasury, Hon. Hugh McCullough, who in turn, transmitted it
to Hon. Schuyler Colfax, speaker of the House of Representa-
tives who, after reviewing and approving same, certified as to its
correctness to Hon. Justin S. Morrill, chairman of the Ways and
Means Committee. After having it reviewed by that great com-
mittee it was favorably acted upon by the House of Representa-
tives, reviewed by the Finance Committee of the Senate, and by
them placed in their bill, which was finally enacted as the great
wool and woolen protective tariff law of 1867. The rates of
duty on wool and woolens contained in that law have substan-
tially been reenacted in the tariff laws of 1883, 1890, 1897, and
1909.

In the act of 1861, to which I have referred as the Morrill
Tariff Act, a duty of 3 cents a pound was placed upon wool. In
the act of 1864 the duty on wool was raised to 6 cents. As a
result of the investigation of this convention of wool growers
and manufacturers, based upon the best data they could obtain
as to the cost of raising wool in this country, and notwithstand-
ing the fact that the revenue commission was called together for
the purpose of reducing the revenue of the country to a peace
basis, the Government raised the rates in the act of 1867 to 10
cents a pound for wool, when foreign value was under 32 cents a
pound, and 12 cents when foreign value was over 32 cents, and in
addition thereto 11 per cent ad valorem. I cite that to show how
important they viewed the question of wool raising and wool
manufacturing at that time.

CORKECTING A MISAPPREHENSION.

Now I have listened with a great deal of interest to our distin-
guished friend from Wyoming in reference to these wool duties.
The speech which he delivered here seems to be a repetition of

92 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the speech which, early in December, was delivered by him in
Wyoming. I was favored with a copy of it and I hope he will
correct me if I am not quoting right from it. I think that this
gentleman has a misunderstanding of the intent of the Govern-
ment in the duties on this material. In his speech he quotes as
follows :

The Wyoming wool shrinks approximately 66f per cent or, in
other words, you are protected, on the average, to the extent of
only 6-^ cents on every pound of wool in the grease, instead of to
the extent of 11 cents, as contemplated by the law. You were
promised gold, and were handed a gold brick : you have been
deceived into believing that the law meant what it said. And
yet, so sacred has been the law, that any one daring to assail its
hallowed name has been branded as a traitor to protection and a
common enemy to mankind. That is a poor way of getting
justice at the bar of public opinion

Now, then, if I understand what Mr. Blume means, it is that the
Government of the United States has promised to give every man
who is interested in the growing of wool 11 cents a pound on top
of the value of foreign wool. If in this I am correct, I want to
call your attention to the fact that the Government of the United
States is a cold-blooded business proposition. It is engaged, not
in giving anybody anything through its tariff law, but in collect-
ing money for the purpose of paying the great expense of running
this Government. Now, then, if the Government of the United
States intended to give the wool grower anything it would be apt
to give it to him in the only way he would be sure to get it, and
that would be by way of a bounty, and then there Avould be no
question but what you would get the 11 cents, but that is not the
purpose of the Government.

In your request in 1867, and practically in every protective
tariff act since, you did not ask anything of the kind from the
Government. You asked the Government to put a duty on for-
eign wool, and the Government, in quest of revenue to support
its projects and to offer an opportunity for people who desire to
go into the wool business to get a better price for their wool than
prevails in foreign markets, says to the foreigner who desires to
invade this market — paragraph 371, clause 2 — writes into the
law the following language :

Wools, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals,

WOOL growers' convention. 93

unmanufactured ; Class I. Merino, mestiza, metz, or metis
wools, or other wools of merino blood, immediate or remote,
down clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the
preceding, including Bagdad, China Lamb's wool. Castel Branco,
Adrianople skin wool or butclier's wool, and such as have been
heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos
Ayres, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia,
Great Britain, Canada, Egypt, Morocco and elsewhere, and all
wools not hereinafter included in Classes II. and III. :

Unwashed wool :

On the skin 10 cents per pound.

Not on the skin 11 cents per pound.

Washed wool :

On the skin 21 cents per pound.

Not on the skin 22 cents per pound.

Scoured wool, 33 cents per pound.

NO PRICE GUARANTEED.

What the Government has said, and what you have asked the
Government to say, is that we put a duty on the wools of other
countries. I do not see anything in here as to what the wool
man of the State of Wyoming, New Mexico or Nevada is to get
for his wool. I do not see anything in here about what my
friend Pete Johnson of Idaho is to get for his wool, and if the
Government is going to give anybody anything, I am sure Pete
is as much entitled to it as any one else I know in the busi-
ness. Senator Blume is a lawyer, I think, and understands these
things. If he thinks Pete Johnson is not getting what is com-
ing to him he has a good opportunity of getting a little business
out of Johnson, and I would advise my friend Johnson to put
the matter in his hands.

As I understand this, you intermountain wool men have been
selling wool on a scoured basis of 20 cents less than foreign
wool of equal qualities, and if the distinguished statesman from
Wyoming is right in his law, something like 20 cents a pound
scoured would be coming to Pete. If Senator Blume is right in
his law and the Gov^ernment of the United States has promised
Pete 11 cents, he had better get on the train and go to Washing-
ton and have a talk with the Government, and if he can prove
that the Government owes Pete I will guarantee that Pete will
get it. That is the situation. The Government of the United
States did not promise anything to any of us, but it does say to
the foreigner he cannot come in and trade in this prosperous

94 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

market without paying to the Government 11 cents duty for the
privilege of doing it, which money the Government needs in its
business, and, as I will try to show later, uses every care to see
that the foreigner pays to it on every pound of wool within
limitations as described.

With this thought in mind, of getting the full 11 cents on every
pound of wool in its natural condition, the Government surveys
foreign wool markets and finds wool exists not only in its
natural condition, but also fleece-washed and scoured. It also
finds that the average shrinkage of wool in the world in its natural
condition is about 66§ per cent. If this wool is washed on the
sheep's back the shrinkage is about 50 per cent. If it is scoured
by the foreigner it will lose two-thirds, and so that wool cannot
get under the bars of the tariff in any other condition, more
favorable to the importer, than by paying 11 cents per pound in
the grease, the Government says to the foreigner : " If you
want to bring your wool in fleece washed, you must pay 22 cents
on every pound ; if you want to get it in scoured, you must pay
33 cents." If these rates did not prevail the first thing the Gov-
ernment would know it would be losing some part of the 11 cents
that is coming to it as revenue and the grower would be deceived
as to his measure of protection on wools of shrinkage of 66§
per cent or less.

AS TO THE COMPENSATING DUTIES.

Next Senator Blume has a round with these compensating
duties. He states concerning them, with which statement I
agree, that they are complicated. As our president said here the
other day, there is not one wool man in a thousand that under-
stands these duties. I will tell him, in no burst of confidence,
there are a great many manufacturers who do not understand
them, and I have come to the conclusion that there is at least one
other who does not understand them. The Senator from
Wyoming said to-day, the same as he said at Sheridan :

The law imposes a duty of 11 cents a pound upon unwashed
wool of the first class, 22 cents upon the washed, and 33 cents
upon the scoured wool of that class. It assumes that the
shrinkage is 66§ per cent; that it takes three pounds of
unwashed wool to make one pound of clean wool; that a further
loss of 25 per cent ensues up to the time when the wool is woven
into cloth. Inasmuch as the law assumes that the manufacturer

WOOL growers' convention. 95

is compelled to pay this tariff — either by way of tax to the
government or by way of additional price upon the home
product, it undertakes to compensate him for such expenditure,
and justly, so as to place him upon an equal footing with the
foreign manufacturer who has free wool. Bear in mind that this
compensatory duty is based on the theory that the wool that
makes up this cloth, and on which the duty is paid, shrinks 66§
per cent, and that it takes four pounds of wool in the grease to
make one pound of cloth.

This statement properly belongs in the class which is often
referred to as " Important if true."

In the first place I want to say that the Government, as
expressed in the law, evinces the same indifference to the
domestic manufacturer as it does to the domestic wool grower of
the United States. As far as the law reads, it does not care a
row of dull pins how many pounds of wool it takes to make a
pound of cloth in this country, and as far as the Government of
the United States is concerned, I suppose it has no knowledge that
there is a wool manufacturer established in these United States,
but the Government has started out to collect a revenue on first
class wool of 11 cents per pound, and first realizes that that duty
is not worth the paper it is written on, either for revenue or pro-
tection to domestic growers, unless they have a customer at
home who can manufacture wool on which either the duty is paid
or the domestic product enhanced by reason of this duty.

THE RATIO OF 4 TO 1.

In order to create a customer at home it looks around the
world to see what condition will have to be met in order to help
it in its quest for revenue and protection. It looks around the
earth and sees tiiat wools are grown in foreign lands that in scour-
ing lose anywhere from 30 to 80 per cent, also finds within the
range of shrinkage of 66§ per cent there are wools of all degrees of
fineness abundantly available in tlie foreign markets, of which the
foreign manufacturer can make such cloths as are required by the
wide range of consumption in this country. Repeated and con-
clusive tests made by our Government have shown that four
pounds of such fine wools shrinking 66f per cent are required to
make one pound of cloth, therefore, in order that there cannot
be any wool in cloth gotten in for any less duty than 11 cents on
raw wool up to a shrinkage of 66^ per cent, the Government
says to the foreigner : " If you want to bring cloth into these

96 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

United States you will have to pay four times the duty of 11
cents, which is 44 cents a pound for the privilege of coming in
here and trading in this country ;" and then says to the Ameri-
can capitalist or manufacturer, " If you want to get in the game
here, and clothe the American people, we are going to give you
an opportunity by charging the foreigner 44 cents a pound of
cloth and thus put you on all fours, as if you had free wool,"
and thereby insures itself that no wool in goods comes in here
with a shrinkage of 66| per cent or under at a less revenue to
the Government than 11 cents a pound in its natural condition.

Under the act of 1861, with 3-cent duty on wool, a compensat-
ing duty on cloth was made of 12 cents. In the act of 1864, the
duty on wool being 6 cents per pound, the compensating duty was
made 24 cents per pound on foreign goods. The act of 1867,
where the duty on wool was on a mixed basis of specific and ad
valorem, the revenue commission recommended 53 cents on a
pound of goods, but since it has been 11 cents on wool, the com-
pensating duty has been 44 cents on cloth.

Before leaving this question of compensating duty levied on
foreign goods, I desire to say to Senator Blume that its relation-
ship to the protection of wool is, first, that it prevents wool in
goods coming into the country at a less tribute to the Government
than 11 cents per pound on wool in its natural condition, with a
shrinkage up to and including 66§ per cent. Also, it affords a
grower what he most needs, and that is a customer who can use
either foreign wool, duty paid, or his wool at such enhancement
over its foreign value as he, in competition with his fellow wool
growers, is able to get out of the manufacturer.

For the senator to assume that 44 cents, the full measure of
compensating duty, is added either to the price of the goods by
the manufacturer or the full measure of 11 cents a pound added
to the value of foreign wool by the domestic grower in all cases
would be to reafiirm the Democratic doctrine that the price of
domestic production is in all cases enhanced to the full extent
of the duty charges on similar foreign merchandise. No clearer
case can be called to the attention of the senator as to the fallacy
of this principal than that which exists in the steel rail industry.
For many years there was a duty on foreign rails levied by our
Government of $28 per ton, and yet, during a large share of that
period, steel rails sold in this country for a less price per ton
than the duty on the foreign product.

WOOL growers' convention. 97

THE VARYING SHRINKAGES.

Now Senator Blume seems to think that he has struck a brand
new idea, that all wools do not shrink 66§ per cent or that all the
goods do not require four pounds of new wool to make a pound
of cloth. Nobody has ever said that it did, and it is a matter
that has been threshed out and understood thoroughly every time
there has been a review of the tariff. It was a matter which, at
the formation of this tariff, was understood : that the wool in a
pound of goods was not necessarily four pounds.

It may be of interest to you to know just what your own asso-
ciation in 1866 — and in this revenue report to which I have
just referred — said about these compensating duties. It is so
important that I desire to read my thoughts rather than verbally
express them :

It is sometimes asserted that all wool does not lose two-thirds
of its weight in scouring, that it does not require four pounds of
some kinds of unwashed wool to make one pound of some kinds
of cloth. These assertions are not denied, they never have been
denied. It is equally true that the foreign wages of labor are
not in all countries uniformly less than in the United States.
For instance, it is well known that the wages of woolen manu-
facture in England average about one-half those paid in the
United States, while in Germany the average for the same trades
is but one-third or less than one-third of those paid in the United
States. If the protective duty on manufactures of wool is made
only sufficient to equalize the difference between American and
British wages, it would not be sufficient to protect against the
lower wages of Germany. But if it is made adequate to equalize
the difference between American and German wages, it will also
protect. as against those of Great Britain, though it may perhaps
be more than absolutely necessary for the latter purpose alone.
Now it is quite impracticable to have different rates of duty
upon similar products coming from different countries, these
rates being based upon the fluctuating difference between the
wages of the respective countries and those of the United States.
It has, therefore, been necessary to adopt a rate sufficient to pro-
tect against the country of the cheapest labor. This principle
applied to the protection of labor is the underlying one in the
compensatory duties in Schedule K.

To illustrate : It does not require three pounds of all kinds of

98 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

wool in its natural condition to make one pound of scoured wool,
yet wools are abundantly produced in the world which, in scour-
ing, require three pounds to make one pound of scoured product,
and protection for these insures the full measure of protection to
growers of wools of less shrinkage when levied in this rate ; and
similarly it would be utterly impossible, hopelessly impracticable,
to adopt ratios in the compensatory duties in the woolen schedule
that would separately meet the many variations in the shrinkage
of different wools or the varying quantities of different kinds of
wool and substitutes that would be necessary to make the count-
less kinds and varieties of cloth.

NOT A NEW QUESTION.

This is not a new question, nor has adequate and satisfactory
answer been wanting in the past. It is a phase in the tariff that
has been discussed whenever tariff legislation has been under
consideration by Congress. The Revenue Commission, to which
we have already referred, considered these aspects of the subject
more than a generation ago, and in its report will be found
incorporated the following views (page 447) :

It will be observed that no provision is made in the tariff
bill proposed for the admission of the class of goods under con-
sideration at lower duties in proportion to the diminution of the
foreign cost, as provided in other portions of the bill. The
minimum principle has been expressly excluded from woolen
cloths for the purpose of shutting out those made of shoddy,
mungo, and waste. Cloths costing less than 80 cents per pound
must be made to a greater or less extent of these materials.
Fabrics which the consumer cannot ordinarily distinguish from
cloths composed of sound wool are made containing as much as
80 per cent of these substitutes for wool. These goods, if
admitted at moderate duties, would take the place of our sound
cloths ; and the American manufacturer would be compelled to
reduce the price of his cloths by fabricating them of the same
worthless material, or surrender the business to the foreigner.
The American manufacturer will thus have but little inducement
to adulterate his cloths, if so disposed. It is but justice to the
American manufacturer, and for the benefit of the wool grower
and consumer, that equally stringent duties should exist against
shoddy cloths. If cheap cloths should be admitted under low
duties, this country would be inundated by the wretched fabrics
of Batley, twenty-five thousand workmen in England being
employed in converting shoddy and mungo into cloths of an
annual value of thirty million dollars, and consuming sixty-five

WOOL growers' convention. 99

million pounds of these materials — more than our whole clip of
wool in 1860. American wool would have no competitor so for-
midable, if the barriers against shoddy goods existing in high
specific duties should be removed.

SENATOR ALDRICh's STATEMENT.

As long ago as 1890 when the McKinley bill was under
consideration, the Senator from Rhode Island made conclusive
disposition of this specious fallacy in a statement as follows :

That formula is very simple. It accepts four pounds of
greasy wool as the quantity of raw material consumed in the
finished production of a pound of cloth and states proportionate
relations for a pound of yarn or a pound of clothing. This
formula does not mean that four pounds of unwashed wool
necessarily enter into every pound of finished cloth. It means
that in a pound of the best cloth four pounds of certain clips of
wool — greasy wools of heavy shrinkage, abundantly accessible
to foreign manufacturers, but not accessible to our own except
by the payment of duty tliereon — are necessarily consumed.

It means that if our manufacturers are to make an equal grade
of cloth on equal terms out of home-grown wools, or a mixture
of both, they must be compensated to the full amount of the
shrinkage and waste established as existing in these wools, from
the use of which they are practically debarred. If they are
driven to the use of the other wools — costlier wools of lighter
shrinkage — they must still be compensated to the extent of four
pounds or they are at a disadvantage as compared with manu-
facturers who can and do use these heavier and cheaper wools,
to say nothing of tiie additional disadvantage of a restricted
choice in their selection of material, for which the bill does not
attempt to compensate them.

Some effort has been made in the course of this debate to
dispute the accuracy of this computation. But in every such
effort, whether made by Senators on information furnished them
by others or by importers anxious for lower duties, these critics
have misapprehended or misstated the nature of the problem,
and declared that in these particular instances the proportion of
shrinkage and waste is only 2 or 3 pounds of wool to 1 of cloth.
I grant there are such instances ; but as it is the weakest link in
the chain or the lowest point in the levee that determines
efficiency, so we are bound to take the highest-shrinkage accessi-
ble to foreigners and to calculate the compensatory duty on the
basis of these. If our manufacturers are excluded from the iise
of this class of wools, their competitors do use them, and it is
against these that the equalization of conditions is to be effected.

Again it has been urged that the formula is wrong because
certain fabrics are produced in which four pounds of wool, even

100 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of this high shrinkage quality are not required to manufacture a
pound of goods, while the compensatory duty is fixed at four
times the wool duty. Goods woven on cotton warps or contain-
ing some admixture of shoddy are cited. I grant the facts in this
instance also. But we must, as I have already shown, arrange
the compensation on the basis of the best cloths ; otherwise we
should determine by our legislation that the manufacturers in this
country shall be confined to the lower grades of goods. That
would be to affix the brand of permanent inferiority upon our
woolen manufactures. Nor is it possible in a tariff bill to so
adjust a system of compensatory duties that it sl*all exactly fit
the amount of wool consumed in an almost infinite variety of
fabrics.

That statement, to my mind, answers all the objections that
are made to the compensation duty.

THE COMPENSATION NOT EXCESSIVE.

Now our statesman from Wyoming further intimates that the
manufacturer appropriates to himself from this compensating
duty a larger sum than is represented by the duty or enhance-
ment due to the duty on the actual new wool entering into a
given fabric. I think a little investigation into the subject will
pretty clearly show that the manufacturer is not so much
engaged in showing how much he can extract from the American
public through the compensating duty, as he is in preventing
some other fellow from underselling him in the market with his
goods. Ninety-five per cent of the clothing of the American
people is practically done by ready made clothiers ; those clothi-
ers, twice a year, come to New York and buy, in the month of
January, the goods that are to be worn by the people the
following winter, and in the month of July the cloths that are
sold for use the following summer. Now if a man is not
successful in marketing his goods in these two months he has
lost the business for the succeeding six months ; this means that
his mill, with its labor costs, interest and taxes, and other over-
head charges, are to be met without any income from production.
His concern, therefore, is not so much what he can get out of
this compensating duty by way of profit as it is to see that the
fellow alongside of him does not get away with the business and
leave him with an idle mill on his hands.

Also, how impossible it is to effect any combination in the wool
manufacturing business in restraint of this acute competition is

WOOL growers' convention. 101

illustrated by a remark heard made by President Wood at a
meeting of one of the associations in the industry. At this
meeting the president of the American Woolen Company said for
this season's business, now being sold in New York, " they had
prepared 60,000 styles." And this concern does not do one-
eighth of the business of the country.

If any business man in this audience will tell you how it is
possible — with such a wide variety of goods consisting of all wool,
wool and shoddy, and reworked wools and noils, with wool and
various mixtures of cotton, part cotton, part reworked wool, all
in various weights — how it is possible to put up any kind of
combination, he could get away with a fortune far beyond what
the sheep raising business ever produced.

In this business there is the most acute competition, and
the aims and ambition of every fellow is to see that he is
allowed to hold on to his watch and not find himself with his
season's business gone.

Now as an evidence that this compensating duty is not gotten
away with by those gentlemen who are engaged in the fabrication
of the cloths in the country, I would like to call your attention to
the fact that this great American Woolen Company, so frequently
quoted from, has been in operation about twelve years ; it has
paid 7 per cent dividend on its preferred stock, which amounts
to f 40,000,000, which represents mills, machinery, and working
capital. They have a large amount of common stock on which
they have never paid a cent of dividend — and if any of you
gentlemen want to take your surplus earnings made out of wool
raising, you can walk down to Wall street and there buy that
preferred stock for 90 cents on the dollar and the common stock
at about 30 cents on the dollar. If any one has absorbed the idea
that this arrangement of compensating duties allows anybody to
get away with what is not coming to him, I desire to call attention
to the experience of nearly twelve years' existence of the
American Woolen Company.

(Mr. Hagenbarth, of Idaho, appealed to the speaker for more
explicit information, saying, " That statement probably would not
mean anything. If they paid a 7 per cent dividend on preferred
stock, we would like to know what that stock means. We pay
rates to railroads on stock that is three-fourths watered. We
want to know whether it is capital in mills or watered stock.")
Mr. Grundy replied : I am glad you asked that question, and I

102 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

can truthfully say that if the company attempted to reproduce
the mills to-day they could not reproduce them for the $40,000,000
which the preferred stock represents. A large number of these
mills are mills they bought as assigned properties, at prices so
much below their real cost as probably not to realize the creditors
25 cents on the dollar of the original cost of buildings and equip-
ment. I also want to add that in this $40,000,000 capitalization,
from actual cash paid in, has been constructed many of the
largest and best equipped and economically managed mills in the
woolen industry. I thank you for asking that question.

A TRADE OF SHAKP COMPETITION.

In order to illustrate the acute competition in the woolen trade,
I would be prepared to enter into a contract on behalf of a num-
ber of mill men I know and thus enable you gentlemen to get
this unearned increment, as it is called by the uplift magazines
and the historical writers — I will agree to sell as many thousand
yards of goods as you want to get away with and pay for, for
any length of time in the future, at 5 cents a yard profit to the
mill.

If a manufacturer can get 5 cents a yard profit on goods that
sell for f 1.00 to $1.75 for a whole season's production, he will
run day and night for any length of time the buyer will take his
production. Five cents a yard means from 15 cents to 25 cents
on a suit of clothes, and when you realize when you come to
buy a suit of clothes for which you will pay from $20 to $40, or
even $65, as our distinguished friend Dr. Wilson paid, that suit
of clothes will not have a profit of over 15 cents to 25 cents to
the maker of the cloth, and I will venture the assertion without
any fear of successful contradiction, that an instance cannot be
brought forward and proven that the profit to the maker of cloth
is any greater than 1 per cent on the retail selling price of the
clothes. I want to emphasize these facts so there will be no mis-
understanding as to the competitive character of the cloth
business.

Now the Senator from Wyoming to-day did not enlarge to the
extent that he did in his address in Wyoming on the alleged dis-
crimination existing in the wool duties against the carded wool
manufacturers and in favor of the worsted manufacturers, but by
inference and indirection intimated that there is a row on

WOOL growers' convention. 103

between the makers of carded wool goods and makers of the
worsted cloths. I want to say here to the wool growers that
there is no row on between the worsted people and anybody.
The worsted manufacturers are thoroughly satisfied that the men
who made this tariff back in '67 and have been making it ever
since, knew what they were doing. We are not in a row with
anybody. There are a few carded wool manufacturers who, in
Harrison's administration, under the McKinley tariff bill, were
shouting and howling and raising the roof for free wool. These
men said if they could get free wool they would go out and
conquer the world and clothe them with wool clothes. These are
the men who, for the main part, are now kicking against Schedule
K. These men amount to very little, even in the carded wool
industry. After careful investigation I find that all those who
are agitating against Schedule K represent not to exceed 15 per
cent of the carded wool industry in point of machinery, and that
is a far less important branch of the woolen industry than are
the worsted manufacturers. So far as any importance is attached
to these men, they represent practically less than 6 or 7 per cent
of the total wool manufacturing industry of the country.

NOT INTERESTED IN WOOL.

Now, then, I think it is no breach of confidence to say to you,
gentlemen, these dissenting manufacturers are not interested in
the duty on wool. What they want is waste, by-products of
wool, noils, rags, etc., brought in here on more favorable terms
than is permitted in the present bill, and if any of you go away
with the idea that these carded wool manufacturers are using
your wool in any great quantity, you are going to have a rude
awakening. That is the one thing they don't use to any great
extent. During the three years and eight months under the
McKinley bill less than a million pounds of these wastes were
imported into the United States ; during the three years and four
months under the Wilson tariff act, when they had free wool
wastes, 86,000,000 pounds of those wastes were brought in
through the custom house. These fellows first got a taste of
waste, shoddies, etc., under the free wool period, and they want
to get at it again, and their agitation in this industry is not an
agitation in the interest of the wool grower, because they do not
extensively use your wool. What they are agitating for is to

104 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

get in, on the one hand, fine wool which would be in direct
competition with your intermountain wools, and, above all, to
get their hands on the wastes they revelled in under the free
wool period.

I have been in this business of wool manufacturing for thirty
years. For twenty-eight years I have been identified primarily
with the wool buying end of it. I want to say to you with the
confidence of that experience, I do not see how under any pos-
sible construction of the present classification of wool where
these men have not an equal opportunity of buying foreign wool^
if they so desire, on equal or better terms than the worsted
manufacturer. There is no classification of wool that is not
equally available to them as it is to the worsted manufacturers.
If there is any advantage in the thing they have the advantage
of a little cheaper wool because they are able to use wools shorter
in staple than those the worsted people are desirous of using,
and therefore sell for a little less on the scoured basis, in equal
grades, and go to these men without competition from the worsted
trade. So I want to emphasize this, that these men have no
kicks coming on wool duties or classification that could not also
be made by the worsted manufacturers. They have every
opportunity the worsted people have and they have the added
advantage of being able to substitute the wool they use so
sparingly for by-products not worth, on the average, 60 per cent
of the value of the scoured wool these wastes supplant.

If either branch of the industry has a right to go tearing up
and down this land accusing Schedule K of discriminating, the
worsted manufacturers ought to be the ones to raise the conten-
tion.

On the other hand, the worsted manufacturers are satisfied
that the men who drew that tariff and have re-written it, knew
their business and tried to be as fair as possible. There is not an
act in the statute books but what somebody can take out in the
back yard at night, without anybody being present, and raise
thunder with it. And this is about what Senator Blume seems,
to have been doing with Schedule K.

A VERY SMALL FRACTION.

(Mr. Hagenbarth, of Idaho, being duly recognized, said to the
speaker : " Before you go I would like to understand about this
quarrel between the carded wool and worsted people. I would

WOOL growers' convention. 105

like to ask, for instance : Are you in the carded wool business or
in the worsted business ? " The speaker stated he was in the
worsted business, whereupon Mr. Hagenbarth continued : " You
state there is only about 10 per cent represented by the dissent-
ing part — " )

The speaker then continued : Less than 15 per cent of the
carded wool people, the other 85 per cent of the carded wool
manufacturers in the business stand shoulder to shoulder with
the worsted industry. The American Woolen Company, for
instance, operates the largest carded woolen mills in the country
and have more machinery than all the 15 per cent who are in this
agitation. This large company is in harmony with this schedule,,
and are on record stating there is no discrimination in the wool
duties in Schedule K to the disadvantage of the carded wool
manufacturer as against the worsted manufacturer.

Of tlie many other phases of State Senator Blume's treatment
of Schedule K one that I want to refer to is his sneering refer-
ence to what he terms the " sacredness of this schedule." If
ever a great piece of legislation of a revenue character earned
the right to this term, certainly Schedule K is entitled to that
designation. If the senator will but read the report of the
Revenue Commission of 1865-1866, he will see how this body of
patriotic men viewed it and how with pride they pointed to your
association's report, which set forth the fact that under this
schedule 200,000,000 pounds of wool had been used to make
35,000,000 garments for the clothing of soldiers and sailors
engaged in preserving the integrity of this Government. To
this they add their indebtedness to the important contribution
to the meat food supply during that trying period, by the
presence in the country of a large number of sheep.

The value of this schedule as arranged in 1867 to the country
and the industry is shown by the fact that the annual wool clip
of the country increased from 100,000,000 in 1865 to 300,000,000
pounds in 1883. And the industry of wool manufacturing thrived
in a like manner, and had it not been for the class of agitators of
which the senator is one, who through ignorance of the history
and purposes of the law, periodically have broken out in the last
quarter of a century, the sheep industry to-day would be fully
abreast of the requirements of the American people. As a
revenue measure the schedule has also produced splendidly
toward the requirements of the Government. Of all the sched-

106 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ules in our tariff laws it is the third largest contributor of
revenue.

For the eleven years under the Dingley law, 1897-1908, it
placed $292,791,146 in the treasury of the United States, This
schedule has received the earnest, intelligent, and patriotic
examination and approval of the greatest protectionists of the
past fifty years. Originally conceived by that great statesman
and economist, Hon. Justin S. Morrill, it was watched over by
him so long as he remained in the House of Representatives.
When the State of Vermont placed him in the Senate of the
United States, William McKinley took up the special champion-
ship of Schedule K. So strongly did he believe in the integrity
of its construction that when in the revision of 1883 some reduc-
tion was made in the duty on wool, as well as reduction in the
principal of its compensating duties, he declined to vote for the
bill, although it was a party measure; it was his championing of
this schedule that materially contributed to the election of Har-
rison in 1888, and after the disastrous experience of the Cleve-
land administration made him preeminently the candidate of the
protectionist party in 1896.

This schedule has received the support of Dingley, Grosvenor,
and your own ex-president. Judge Lawrence, in the House of
Representatives, and Sherman, Allison, and the Republican lead-
ers in the Senate for half a century. A review of the debates in
the Senate of 1890, when the McKinley bill was before that
body, shows the clear and comprehensive knowledge possessed of
its provisions by the present chairman of the finance committee,
Mr. Aldrich ; and a review of the debates in the Senate collateral
to the passage of the present tariff law convinces any one of the
thorough understanding of the principles underlying Schedule K
possessed by your own great intermountain senator, Hon. Francis
E. Warren.

In the face of all this, it is left for State Senator Blume to
come before you and, from information gathered from briefs pre-
pared by importers anxious to break down the great American
system of protection, endeavor to discredit in your eyes the
splendid achievements of the greatest statesmen of the past half
century.

There is one thought more, gentlemen, and then I am through.
The agitators in the East, if not all frank enough to demand free
wool, are interested in such tariff changes as will permit them to

WOOL growers' convention. 107

import freely the wastes of the woolen industry abroad, which
wastes would supplant pound for pound your scoured wool. The
suggestion of changes in the law calls to mind a point always to
"be remembered, and that is the great value to an industry of the
integrity of the language of a tariff schedule.

Schedule K in the tariff act of 1883, while made by friends of
the wool and woolen industry, yet when passed upon in its
details by Government appraisers and United States Courts at
the instigation of the importers, was literally " shot to pieces "
by these agencies, with the result that the industry of growing
and manufacturing wool from 1885 to 1890 passed through a
period only less disastrous than that of 1894 to 1897.

These errors in Schedule K, as they were developed in the act
of 1883, were remedied in the act of 1890, and this schedule in
the McKinley bill, as has its prototype in the Dingley and
Payne-Aldrich bills, has now for sixteen years withstood the
assault of the domestic critic and the foreign importer.

To my mind, those of us who are sheltered behind the protec-
tive features of a great revenue law dealing with a highly techni-
cal subject, have a great deal to be thankful for in the proven
integrity of its language and provisions, and as one whose busi-
ness experience covers both the unfortunate provisions of
Schedule K in the laws of 1883 and 1894, I earnestly advise
that one and all will content ourselves with the ills we have,
rather than "fly to those we know not of."

108 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

. HYGROSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL.

INTERESTING VIEWS OF MR. HOWARD PRIESTMAN OF BRAD-
FORD, ENGLAND, AND MR. WILLIAM D. HARTSHORNE OF
LAWRENCE, MASS.

(In the Bulletin for September, 1910, there was presented
a paper by Mr. William D. Hartshorne of the Arlington
Mills, Lawrence, Mass., on the " Hygroscopic Qualities of
Wool," in which Mr. Hartshorne commented upon and criti-
cised certain statements by an eminent English writer, Mr.
Howard Priestman of Bradford, whose paper, " Electricity,
Humidity, and Yarn Condition," had appeared in the pre-
vious June Bulletin. Mr. Priestman now replies to Mr.
Hartshorne's comment, and Mr. Hartshorne presents the
results of some further experiments on this subject, of marked
scientific interest and of direct practical value to textile
manufacturers.)

MR. PRIESTMAn's ARTICLE.

It is not altogether easy to gather what relationship Mr. Hart-
shorne sees between Galileo and a humble investigator like
myself, for I take it that he thinks I am wrong whilst Galileo was
right. As a matter of fact, he has created a situation that has
some resemblance to the controversy he cites, but it would be a
breach of etiquette for me to draw the obvious conclusions.

If I remember rightly the critics of the great philosopher were
quite sure that they were right and he was wrong and my critic
doubtless thinks that he is right and that I am in hopeless error.
Unfortunately for him I have ample proof to the contrary.

It is very seldom safe to state a negative case, for the simple
reason that in logic it is impossible to prove such an one, and when
Mr. H. says that individual wool fibers do not shrink, he is of
course unable to prove the statement. To do so he would have
to test more than half the fibers in existence.

I never said that wool did not expand, because I knew that it
shrank with moisture. I have learned the futility of expecting
any two wool fibers to do exactly the same thing under exactly

HYGROSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL. 109

similar conditions, and all I said was that " Some fibers shrink
whilst others remain of their full length . . . often it happens
that the shrinkage applies to only one or two fibers." On re-
reading these words I regard them as a very moderate and con-
cise statement of the truth. The worst charge that can be
brought agai nst it is one of understatement. I have measured
many fibers, dry and wet, in proof of it, and in addition Mr.
Jackson of the Bradford Corporation Conditioning House has
given me a letter in proof of the same fact. This shows not
only that some wool fibers contract with moisture whilst some
do not, but it shows that the self same treatment will cause some
fibers of 32 luster top to expand and some to contract, whilst
others from the same top are wholly unaffected.

I was overhauled by Mr. Hartshorne for basing theories on
unproven facts. I regret that I did not go into details and state
on what facts my theories were based ; it might have saved his
falling into the very error of which he accuses me, for I presume
that a large part of the theories he propounds are based on his
assumption that " the individual wool fiber and the individual
cotton fiber are lengthened and not shortened by increase of
moisture."

How many fibers he measured in various states of moisture he
does not tell us, or what were their qualities. I have measured a
good many human hairs as well as two kinds of long wool and in
all I find the same inconsistency of result.

In preluding the above statement Mr. Hartshorne uses the
words : " The simple truth is this," etc. It is an unfortunate
phrase, for the truth in regard to wool shrinkage is very far from
simple and it is certainly not what my critic believes it to be.
The problem is far too complex for further discussion now.
Those managers will fall into fewest errors who take the problem
as unsolved and act with the greatest caution. In the meantime
Mr. Hartshorne's criticism should call pointed attention to a very
important subject — a subject so wide that only the cooperation
of many researchers will lay bare all the facts that are at present
unknown.

I always regret that force of circumstances has compelled me
of late years to work alone, and I further regret that I did not
point out that all statements represented the result of my own
observations.

110 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUBERS.

Far be it from me to say tliat there are not other ways in
which electricity is produced, in addition to those I named. I
only state as facts things that were proved before the very criti-
cal scientific staff of the University of Leeds in the Laboratory of
Professor Stroud, D.Sc, For this reason I apologize for any
error there may be on page 215. When speaking of tops in bags,
stored in a good cellar, I ought to have said that so far as my
experience went, nothing but the mechanical application of
moisture or a super-saturated atmosphere would increase the con-
dition above 19 per cent, but possibly the word super-saturated is.
even then open to criticism.

In conclusion I would thank Mr. Hartshorne for his criticism,
which is courteous even when it is most severe and I trust that
he will see that he has left me no other course than to defend my
methods of research.

I am

Yours truly,

Howard Pbiestman,

Cheapside Chambers, Bradford.

CERTIFICATE OF MR, JACKSON.

Deak Sir,

Re Sample of Lustre Top.

As requested I have carefully taken out fibres from the above Top and
tested them in order to ascertain if it is possible to find any fibres which
shorten in length when in a wet state. The fibres were : —

1st. Carefully measured under tension.
2nd. Immersed in water for 60 seconds without tension.
3rd. Measured wet with same tension.

4th. Measured after drying with same tension, but dried without
tension.

I have found several fibres which were shorter when wet (average .31 c/ra)
than the original length, they however form no proportion of the bulk and
were shorter than their original length when dried.

Yours truly,

W. M. JACKSON,

Manager.
Mr. Howard Priestman,

Bradford.

HYGKOSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL. Ill

MR. HARTSHORNE's PAPIER.

On reading Mr. Howard Priestman's courteous rejoinder to my
criticism of his previous paper, I think I might express my feel-
ings in the terms of the little girl who had been bothering the
Central by taking down the telephone receiver, which she was
just tall enough to reach. Central had expostulated with the
mother, who in turn chided the child — " You must not do that,
Anna, Central does not like it : you bother her." The child
seemed very grave for a moment and then replied smilingly,
" Well, she cannot spank me anyway."

Indeed, if there were any real relationship between the two
parties to this discussion similar to that which disturbed Galileo,
it might be classed in the same category as the above comment,
only the central authority of that day could get at the poor
fellow, and compel him, so the tradition runs, to retract all he
had said upon the subject, or suffer the direful consequences, not
of being spanked only, but of losing his head. But can we not
imagine the gleam in his eye while saying under his breath as he
vanished from the presence of the Council — " But it is the
world that revolves just the same."

But in reality Mr. Priestman must not imagine that I was
either comparing him or myself to an ecclesiastical hierarchy, or
to a Galileo. It was really the subject matter of discussion that
was wholly in my mind, and the comparison was in what this
involved, and not in the individuals. Certainly from Mr. Priest-
man's statement that he has been working on these subjects
entirely alone, I have no right now to assume that he has been
influenced in his statement by Dr. Bowman's very plain case
of misunderstanding the facts, as exemplified in the hair
hygrometer.

So far as it may be true that it is " seldom safe to state a
negative case, for the simple reason that in logic it is impossible
to prove such an one," I am quite willing for the sake of argument
to admit the impeachment, but it would certainly have to be
admitted also that to carry this method of proof to its logical
conclusion would require the testing of not merely " more than
one-half the fibers in existence," but all of them. The force of
my statement, however, rested rather as a counter to what I
understood Mr. Priestman to mean, not only in the paragraph

112 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

which he now quotes in part — but not in full — and which may
be found on page 150 of his first paper, but also in a paragraph
on page 143, which I quote in full and then quote in full the
paragraph on page 150 :

If on the other hand all the fibers in a thread are not equally
moist the shrinkage is not uniform and the result is nothing
short of disastrous. As a rule certain portions of the thread
contract in length, but the fibers that remain dry retain their
original length and are thrown up on the surface of the yarn in
loops or curls, which entirely spoil the surface of the finished
cloth.

Now for the quotation from page 150 :

But it is especially when yarn has been spun out so far that
the curling point is almost reached that the worst fault of all
takes place. It is very difiicult to give a scientific explanation
of the reasons, but it is very easy to see the extraordinary nature
of the result. * Some fibers shrink whilst others remain of their
full length and these long fibers are thrown onto the surface in
the form of perfect loops (see figure 5).

Often it happens that the shrinkage applies to only one or two
fibers. The result is then of the worst, for every fiber that is
not shrunk is thrown up into the loop which resembles that
which is deliberately made in fancy loop yarns both in structure
and appearance.

Both of these paragraphs are by either direct statement or
context dealing with the effect of unequal distribution of moist-
ure, and in view of the fact that it is Mr. Priestman's opinion in
the one case that it is the " fibers that remain dry " — " which
are thrown out on the surface," the implication from the second
would be that it was at least the fibers which remained drier
which looped up, by reason of the shortening of the wetter ones.
But he confesses that he is not sure of his explanation beyond
the fact which he now confirms that he is sure that at least a
few fibers have this property of shortening by moisture though
he never meant to say that none were lengthened. Permit me
to try to state the case more fully :

On first reading Mr. Priestman's paper when I came to the top
of page 143 and read down to the paragraph quoted his state-

* Th« Italics are mine, and are intended to show the portion quoted by Mr. Priestman.

HYGROSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL. 113

nient seemed to be correct, for I at first understood him to mean,
what is probably true, that the waving or crimping of a fiber
tends to shorten the distance between its two ends, and the effect
of this effort of the fibers to crimp in a wetted twisted thread,
not held too taut, may have something to do with the shortening
of the thread itself. This shortening, he points out (page 143)
takes place when all the fibers are equally moist, but it should
be noted that tlie degree of shortening of the thread has a very
pronounced relation both to the kind of staple and to the num-
ber of turns of twist in the thread, whether single or two-ply.
Moreover, where there is the opportunity for individual fibers, or
a bunch of fibers, by reason of smoothness of surface or some
loosening of the twist at a given point, to pull themselves out
from their bound inclosure you will have the form of a loop,
even when all the fibers are soaked in water. This 1 will try to
show later.

I do not quite find authority in Mr. Jackson's, letter or certifi-
cate for all the alleged facts which Mr. Priestman claims are
shown thereby, but this is of small consecjuence. If the meas-
urements by Mr. Priestman and Mr. Jackson have been correctly
interpreted by them, whether or not- they have any bearing upon
the looping question, certainly Mr. Priestman has ground for his
contention that the phenomenon of fibers being lengthened by
moisture is not universal, even if those which are claimed to have
been found " shorter when wet " " form no proportion of the
bulk and (sic) were shorter than their original length when
dried," as says Mr. Jackson. But have their measurements been
correctly interpreted ? Neither one tells us what method of
measurement was used, or gives us any definite clue by which
their experiments in measurement may be repeated and such
possibly important conclusions confirmed. I confess that I have
not been able to determine by measurement of the wet and dry
state of a wool fiber under tension the amount of difference in
length which was due to the moisture alone, and how much to
the effect of the weight upon the stretching capacity of the fiber
when wet and dried. It is perhaps conceivable that the so-called
crimping effect might be enough to raise a weight, and thus give
the impression that the fiber itself had been shortened by mois-
ture, but I have not succeeded in finding a fiber and weight

11-i NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

whose compensating conditions would exhibit this effect.* The
difficulties of the problem are illustrated by the photographs of a
merino fiber held between the clamps of a twist tester :

Exhibit No. 1. — Fiber dry and loose.

Exhibit No. 2. — Fiber in same state with a 10-niilligram weight

suspended in the middle.
Exhibit No. 3. — Fiber in same state with a 315-milligi*am

weight suspended in the middle.
Exhibit No. Jf. — Same fiber, with the same weight on, after

soaking two minutes in water with weight off.

In each of these exhibits the distance between the clamps of
the tester has repiained the same. It will be seen that the first
weight was far from enough to take out the natural crimps of
the dry state, and that even the second weight had not fully
done so while dry, or even when wet, though evidently these
crimps show less in the wet state, and the fiber has apparently
been elongated, and, of course, this apparent elongation could be
approximately measured, but even without considering the mere
straightening out of the crimps it is inconclusive as to the actual
amount of elongation due to unaided expansion of the fiber
longitudinally, for the question still remains : How much has
the weight affected the result — and could not a weight have
been found which the extra crimping effort of the fiber when wet
might actually have lifted? Similar results have been observed
on long fibers of crossbred wools, with varying weights, and which
were equally inconclusive. But the problem may be approached
in another way :

Exhibit No. 5. — Is of a thread of cap spun single 18s crossbred
wool of about .32s quality, containing 8^ turns (theoretical)
twist, clamped in the twist tester in its natural state, just
taut, 10 inches between jaws.

* Since the above was written I liave succeeded In producing a regular spiral spring from a
strong wool fiber by winding it tightly around a glass tube in a spiral direction (its two ends
being fastened to the tube) and setting it in that position by boiling in water fur half an hour
and afterwards cooling and drying in that position. This, with a minute weight attached,
after first lengthening out by racist air and then lengthening further by dry air, finally found
a point of equilibi iura where moist air shortened the spiral and dry air lengthened it a minute
amount, as often as the conditions were repeated. This shortening of the spiral could
hardly be claimed as proving a shortening of the fiber itself, but this is the only way in
which I have so far been able to make an individual fiber appear to shorten under the effect
of moisture.

HYGROSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL. 115

Exhibit No. 6. — The same thread, let up just a little (to avoid
straining while putting in twist) with 5 turns per inch more
twist put into it by the twist tester.

Exhibit No. 7. — The same thread, with the distance between
jaws let up a little more, to show a drop with the .'il5-milli-
gram weight on the middle.

Exhibit No. 8. — The same thread, with the same weight on,
clamped fast in the same position as in No. 7 after being
submerged in water two minutes with the weight off.

Exhibit No. 9. — The same fiber with the weight removed, and
after taking out slowly 10 turns of twist.

The relative positions of the clamps in the several exhibits
can be noted on the scale to which they are attached.

Now first, it is evident that the effect of the wetting has been
to tighten up and shorten this thread beyond what the weight
could pull it down, and that the shortening could be measured if
necessary.

Second, it is also evident that a loosening up of the twist has
allowed the fibers to escape from tlieir bound condition, forming
loops. This looping began and progressed with tlie removal of
the twist.

Third, it will be noticed that across the loops, like a string to
a bow, there are individual taut fibers. Are these the transgres-
sors of the rule, whose shortening by moisture has caused the
looping of the others ? Surely if any have been shortened it must
be these.

To test the question further, the taut fiber showing at " A "
was marked by a little spot of ink to identify it, and then care-
fully removed from the thread, its two ends fastened by collodion
to little rubber blocks and these clamped to a glass strip, and
the strip and fiber attached put into a glass tube, as in the experi-
ment illustrated on page 213 of my previous paper :

Exhibit A. — Shows a reproduction of a photograph of this fiber
as first put into the tube.

Exhibit B. — After passing moist air through the tube.

Exhibit C. — After passing dry air through.

Can there be any doubt that even this fiber has lengthened by
moisture and shortened by its removal ?

116 NATIONAL ASSUCIATION OF WOOL INIANUFACTURERS.

A repetition of these alternating conditions gave the same
apparent effects as often as tried. .

This paper might end here, but I believe its readers are not so
much interested in the bare (j^uestion of whether the wool fiber
lengthens by wetting and shortens by drying, or the reverse, as
in what practical consequences the alleged effects enable us to
explain, make use of, or guard against. Some of these, like the
advantageous conditions for spinning and the looping effect in
improperly conditioned yarn, were alluded to in ni}^ previous
paper, as well as in that of Mr. Priestman. But a few more
experiments may help to an understanding of the subject :

Experiment 1. — A thread from the same bobbin of yarn already
experimented upon (single 18s crossbred) was fastened at one
end to a porcelain scale taken from a thermometer, while to
the other end was attached a weight of 1,550 milligrams,
arranged to slide freely up and down upon the scale. The
scale and thread were then placed vertically in the same
tube used for the experiments on the single fiber and sub-
jected to alternating conditions of moist and dry air passing
through. Chart 1 shows the measured results at the time
intervals given.

Experiment 2. — Another thread from the same bobbin was
Avound around a small setting frame (the ends fastened
tight and the frame expanded until the thread was quite
taut) and then set by boiling in water half an hour and
afterwards cooling and drying in the taut state. A portion
of this set thread was rigged up on the thermometer scale
with the same weight attached and subjected to the same
alternating conditions as the thread of Experiment No. 1.
Chart No. 2 shows the measured results. There is a strik-
ing difference between the effects shown on the two charts.

By Chart 1 it will be seen that the first effect of the moisture
on unset j^arn is to lengthen the thread, but very quickly as the
fibers get time to bulge out it begins to shorten it. The fibers
once bulged out, their barbed scales prevent them from returning
and the succeeding effect of drying shortens the thread still more.
It is possible an even greater effect of shortening might have
taken place with longer exposure, or more complete wetting
before drying.

The renewal of the moist air condition at once lengthened the
thread, but not to so great an extent as before, and after the first

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HYGROSCOPIC QUALITIES OF WOOL. 117

five minutes there was no further increase in ten minutes more.
Reversing to the dry air again the thread in fifteen minutes
became shorter than at the previous dry stage. When moistened
again it failed to lengthen quite so far as in the immediately pre-
ceding moist stage, but on redrying it shortened again more than
at the immediately preceding dry stage. On remoistening and
redrying successively similar comparative results were obtained.
The difference between the first five minutes of the last moisten-
ing and the next ten, though measurable, is exceedingly small,
and probably indicates the effect of some motion of the thread
permitting individual fibers to come out further and slightly
shorten the expanded thread. At all events, at this time loops
began to appear in the thread itself, in spite of the weight
attached.

The results exhibited in ('hart No. 2 show that the setting of
the thread has made its fibers all act together as a unit, and in
the period of fifteen minutes for each change the moisture every
time lengthens the thread, and the cb-ying shortens it the same
amount, no indications of looping at any time becoming visible.

These two experiments indicate important considerations for
the dyer and finisher, and explain many of the troubles and
many of the beautiful effects which in large measure are at the
finisher's command. The principles involved are at the base of
the required condition for producing crepes from hard twisted
yarns, where it is of importance that no setting shall take place
in the yarn or the fabric until the crepe has been produced by
the wetting. On the other hand, for smooth faced luster fabrics
it is important that the setting (crabbing and steaming) shall be
the first of the operations used. They explain the necessity for
setting in a taut state certain classes of yarn before they are dyed
in the skein, or the dyeing itself would set them in a cockly con-
dition. They partially at least explain the so-called permanent
finish on lining goods, where the extreme effects of setting and
resetting finally produce a surface which remains smooth and
bright under wetting and ironing.

In fabrics whose character or finish does not admit of much
or any setting the proverbial ability to continue to shrink every
time the fabric or garment is washed and dried again is explained.
Undoubtedly also this property of the wool fiber to lengthen

118 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

under moisture has a close connection with the results of rubbing
and soaping, and especially pounding and rolling, as in the full-
ing process, in aiding the fibers to bulge out from their confined
place and accomplish the intended purpose of felting.

In these effects and those of a similar class I think it cannot
be successfully controverted that the fundamental properties
involved are three :

First. — It is a general property of the wool fiber to lengthen by
moisture and shorten by drying.

Second. — When fibers bulge out from their confined position in
a thread or fabric by reason of this tendency to lengthen
individually when wet, or for any other reason, the scales
prevent their returning to their original position.

Third. — Heat and moisture together cause the wool fiber, in
common with hair and horny materials generally, to
assume a more or less plastic state, in which as an indi-
vidual fiber, or a group of fibers, it can be moulded, pressed,
smoothed, stretched, or kinked into more or less permanent
shapes, if kept in such shapes until cold and dry. The
more perfectly this plastic condition has been obtained, and
the form fixed or set, the more nearly will the thread or
fabric thereafter behave as a unit under wetting and drying.
Mere moistening and drying has some tendency to set a
wool fiber, but it does not do this perfectly, and may be the
cause of more harm than good.

It is not claimed that these propositions are novel, but it is
possible that their relationship to each other has not been as
fully understood as it ought to be.

We may indeed admit, if we must, Mr. Priestman's contention
that some wool fibers have been found which shrank in length
by wetting, but one swallow never made a summer, and it is
conceded indeed that the moon revolves around the earth, but,
nevertheless, it is the revolution of the earth on its own axis,
and not the revolution of the sun and stars around the world,
that produces the phenomenon of day and night.

William D. Hartshorne.
Arlington Mills,

Lawrence, Massachusetts.

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 119

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD.

A DINNER GIVEN TO THE NEW HEAD OF THE NATIONAL
ASSOCIATION IN PHILADELPHIA.

A NOTABLE dinner in honor of John P. Wood, of Wil-
liam Wood & Company, the newly-elected President of the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers, was given by
Mr. Wood's Philadelphia friends at the Manufacturers' Club in
his home city, on the evening of Saturday, February 25, 1911.
The invitations were sent out by Charles H. Porter, Jr., on
behalf of the manufacturers, spinners, and wool merchants
of Philadelphia, and the committee in charge of the dinner
consisted of Joseph R. Grundy, Nathan T. Folwell, James
Dobson, Theodore Justice, Richard Campion, Charles H.
Harding, Allen R. Mitchell, Caleb J. Milne, Jr., John Burt,
William M. Coates, George C.Hetzel, William T. Galey, Jr.,
John Fisler, Joseph S. Rambo, and Charles Porter, Jr.

The gathering at the reception and dinner was a large one
and thoroughly representative of the important business inter-
ests of Pennsjdvania. There were present also a number of
President Wood's friends of the National Association of
Wool Manufacturers from New England, New York, and
New Jersey. President Wood received his guests at the head
of the main stairs of the club-house, long famous as the old
Hotel Bellevue. Joseph R. Grundy, the toastmaster, presided
at the banquet, with President Wood on his right hand.
President William M. Wood of the American Woolen Com-
pany ; Representative Joseph W. Fordney of Michigan, of
the Committee on Ways and Means ; ex-Governor Edwin S.
Stuart of Pennsylvania; Charles H. Harding, of the Erben-
Harding Company and Vice-President of the National Asso-
ciation of Wool Manufacturers; Frederic S. Clark, President
of the Talbot Mills, President of the American Association
of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers and Vice-President
of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers ; George
C Hetzel ; James Dobson ; Francis T. Maxwell ; Charles

120 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACT CTREE S.

Porter, Jr. ; Herman J. Waterhouse ; William H. Folwell,.
Jr., and Richard Campion were others who sat at the head
table. The banquet hall, in which the Clover Club for many-
years had held its celebrated festivities, was beautifully deco-
rated for the occasion.

ADDRESS OF MR. GRUNDY.

After the dinner had been served, Mr. Grundy as toast-
master called the assemblage to order, saying :

The high quality of integrity and of honesty which the peo--
pie of Pennsylvania inherit from the founders of the Common-
wealth is responsible for the conspicuous part that our people
have always taken in every crisis which has confronted our
common country.

It was these characteristics that led the colonists to feel that
confidence in their hearts and in their minds in the citizens of
Philadelphia as to gather here when they founded the Constitu-
tion of our country. It was these characteristics that at the
time of the Civil War resulted in Philadelphia and Pennsylvania
contributing more in treasure and more in men to the main-
tenance of the Union than any other sister State, After that
great struggle with the experiences involved, with the disarrange-
ment of our foreign commerce, the huge expenditure of our
Government during that period, with the great stimulus it gave
to industry, and with the high rates of wages established, there
grew in the minds of the statesmen of the times the great.
American system of protection which the world has since known.

It has been Pennsylvania that, every time that principle and
that policy of protection have been in jeopardy, has come to the
front and unanimously sustained them. In the crises which have
confronted the common industry in which we are all engaged, it
is these characteristics that have directed the thoughts of the
craftsmen engaged in this industry to Pennsylvania, and selected
from her citizenship one who possesses all these characteristics
in a highly refined degree. That man is our guest to-night, and
he has been chosen to lead us from the paths of darkness, we-
hope, into the paths of light.

Gentlemen, it was a conspicuous honor that you paid me in

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 121

asking me to be your toastmaster here to-night. Being aware of
the amenities of that position, I do not propose to take up any of
the time which properly belongs to the gentlemen whom you are
waiting to hear from. But I would like to call your attention
just for a moment to the importance, in these crises, of organiza-
tion. The !N"ational Association of Wool Manufacturers is one
of the very oldest trade associations in our country, and embraces
within its membership a very large percentage of the machinery
engaged in converting wool into partially manufactured, or man-
ufactured, goods. During the life of that association, however,
there has been much machinery introduced into our country
which is engaged in the partial manufacture of wool on toward
the finished cloth. A great deal of this machinery is not in the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers, but, very fortu-
nately, is embraced in a sister association, whose ideas and aims
are on the same line as those of our own. Fortunately, to-night we
have with us the president of that association, a gentleman who
has long been associated with our guest of this evening in the
affairs of the National Association as well as those of the
American Association.

In that direction and in that particular he has been able to
know of the great personal worth and ability of our guest of
this evening. I have very great pleasure in introducing to you
the President of the American Association of Woolen and
Worsted Manufacturers, Mr. Frederic S. Clark.

ADDRESS OF FREDERIC S. CLARK.

Mr. Clark said :

I accepted the invitation of your committee with much pleas-
ure because of the opportunity it gives me to testify by my pres-
ence to the very warm personal regard and esteem which I feel
for your honored guest, Mr. John Wood.

I have been associated with him on the executive committee
of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers for a great
many years, and long ago I became attached to him for his
lovable personal traits, and found that we could expect from him
on all questions a keen insight, intelligent judgment, and a per-
suasive force, all the more convincing because of a remarkable

122 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

felicity of expression. No wonder that these attributes should
have caused his associates to accord him the highest honor in
their power, and I assure you they have done so with profound
satisfaction to themselves, and with the greatest confidence in his
leadership in the troublous times which we have before us.

I have been asked to speak on " The Advantages and Necessity
of Cooperation and Organization in Business." Gentlemen, what
a subject for Philadelphia ! It might just as well have read,
" The Advantages and Necessity of Bringing Coals to Newcastle ! "
Certainly it is unnecessary and superfluous to enter into any
argument on that proposition in the home of Theodore C. Search,
John P. Wood, Charles Porter, Jr., and Joseph R. Grundy.

I will not, therefore, indulge in an academic argument on this
question, but confine my brief remarks to a few observations on
the work of two business associations with which I am familiar,
the National Association of Wool Manufacturers and the American
Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers.

The first is one of the oldest business associations in the
country, and was founded in 1864 for the purpose of protecting
the interests of the industry in various ways, but particularly as
affected by national legislation. It has been active and influen-
tial up to the present time, never more so than during the last
two years, and, under its new president, Mr. John P. Wood, who
is so well equipped to lead it, I am sure it has a useful future.

Since the .passage of the Payne-Aldrich tariff bill there has
been much criticism of the Ways and Means Committee of the
House and of the Senate Finance Committee, because they con-
sulted manufacturers in framing the bill. We all feel that this
is a ridiculous contention and it is interesting to read what Mr.
Erastus B. Bigelow, the noted first president of the Association,
said in his first report in regard to its future work :

" That the association should make itself a source of informa-
tion, so that the heads of departments at Washington, committees
and members of Congress, when about to report or legislate on
matters connected with the woolen manufacture, will avail them-
selves of the information which it will be in our power to
impart, and which is not likely to be accessible through any
other channel."

There has also been great criticism because of a so-called

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 123

improper combination of interests between this association and
the wool growers, and in this connection I will read another
quotation from Mr. Bigelow's first report :

" The opposition of interests, which has sometimes been
thought to exist between men whose pursuits are different and
yet allied, as between those, for instance, who grow the raw
material and those who manipulate it, is, I believe, always
imaginary and cannot fail to disappear under a careful considera-
tion of principles and facts. So far as our society, by its action
or by its bearing, shall contribute to the removal of misappre-
hension and prejudice, the result will be gratifying to us all."

Could Mr. Bigelow look upon the work of the association
during these forty-six years he would find that his ideas as to its
legitimate field of action have been wouderfully fulfilled. The
association has prepared and furnished to congressional commit-
tees the fullest information, and has exerted a powerful influence
in securing adequate protection to the industry. It has also
acted on the belief that wool growing and wool manufacturing are
interdependent and should cooperate for mutual defence.

The vast amount of textile information which has been col-
lected and presented as occasion required by the association has
been published for a period of forty years in a quarterly bulletin
which has thus become a most valuable history of tariff legisla-
tion and wool manufacturing.

Especial praise and gratitude are due to William Whitman
who for seventeen years as president labored indefatigably and,
as a carded wool manufacturer, I can say that I believe he did so
unselfishly, for all branches of the industry in these matters.

A new departure was made in holding our recent annual meet-
ing in Washington, but still in the line of imparting information
to our legislators and incidentally to the public. Who can doubt
the valuable effect of the masterly exposition and defence of
Schedule K by Mr. John P. Wood, Mr. Charles H. Harding, and
Mr. William M. Wood on that occasion. It has been manifested
in various ways, notably in the changed attitude of certain news-
papers which had previously seen nothing but iniquity and a
cause of high cost of clothing in that schedule.

Such, in brief outline, is the important work of this associa-
tion. Organization and cooperation were absolutely necessary ta

124 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

accomplish it. Its membership has always been representative
of the most important woolen and worsted interests, and was
never more so, or larger, than it is to day.

The American Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufactu-
rers is the infant of our industry, but it is a lusty one. It origi-
nated about four years ago, as all good associations in our
industry do, in the brains of some of the Philadelphia gentlemen
whom I have mentioned, and was organized for other purposes
than those of the National Association. The distribution of
woolen and worsted goods had been attended with grave abuses in
the way of cancellations, returns, claims, etc., and manufacturers
were quite ready to follow a lead in attempting a reform. The
constitution of the association declares: "The object of this
association shall be to promote the interests of those persons,
firms, and corporations engaged in the manufacture and sale of
woolen and worsted woven fabrics in the United States of
America ; to cooperate for the improvement of all conditions
relating to the industry ; to regulate and correct abuses current
in the trade; to secure freedom from unjust or unlawful exac-
tions ; to interchange information relating to credits and standing ;
to establish uniformity and certainty in the customs and usages
of said business, and to promote an enlarged and friendly inter-
course among its members, and with those with whom we have
dealings."

Thus far the work of the association has resulted in the
adoption of

A uniform order blank ;
The limitation of free selling samples ;
The determination of free delivery points ;
The definition of trade terms ;

The establishment of a credit bureau and a collection
agency.

But most important of all has been the provision of methods
for equitably settling differences with our customers without
resort to law, with its unpleasant effect on business relations.

In this connection with the establishment of friendly working
intercourse with the National Association of Clothiers has been
of great benefit. A joint committee representing the two associa-
tions meets frequently and hereafter is to constitute a final court

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 125

for the reference of important cases. I was interested to note
that at the annual meeting of the Clothiers' Association, held a
short time ago, Mr. Marks, the president, referred to this matter
in these words :

" Our relations with the American Association of Woolen
and Worsted Manufacturers, through the joint committee, have
been very friendly and growing in intimacy as well as good
result. Kot only has the broadest spirit of justice and equity
prompted the deliberations of this joint committee, but the
theories thus accepted have been crystalized into actual working
machinery.

" The expensive litigation will thus be avoided in some
instances, and in others there will be a conservation of good will
which now is interfered with by unpleasant discussions regard-
ing deliveries of woolens.

" Our cooperation with the woolen association is one of the
most hopeful signs of the broad spirit of fraternity now begin-
ning to pervade business life. Every effort should be made to
facilitate the evolution of this movement."

That the provisions for adjusting cancellations, claims, etc.,
have been widely used and have proved effective is evidenced by
these figures :

Total cases considered 951

Total cases settled 653

Total cases settled in member's fayor 569

Total cases settled in customer's favor 84

Total cases withdrawn 192

Total cases under consideration now 106

Of above 653 cases, 103 were settled by arbitration.

The association has grown beyond the fondest expectations of
its founders and has to-day 145 mills enrolled in its active
membership, representing 13,702 looms, and an associate mem-
bership, consisting of selling agencies of 48.

I have thus alluded to some of the activities and accomplish-
ments of these associations because, to my mind, they constitute
the best argument I can offer of the value of organization and
cooperation in business. It needs no argument to prove that very
little could have been accomplished along these lines by indi-
vidual action.

126 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Some manufacturers, not members, have admitted to me that
their business has been benefited by the work of one or both of
these associations, and yet unaccountably they do not feel that
spirit of fellowship and that obligation which would lead them
to add their influence and financial assistance by joining the
ranks.

In closing, as in my opening, I wish to get nearer to the spirit
of this occasion. It has been said that " a prophet is not without
honor save in his own country." I need not assure you that Mr.
Wood's reputation is secure outside of this city and it is a pleas-
ure to me to note that this gathering, and especially the grand
Philadelphia delegation which came to Washington to honor him,
are delightful proofs that, so far as he is concerned, the saying
has no standing in Philadelphia.

INTRODUCING MR. FORDNEY.

Toastraaster Grundy, in introducing Hon. Joseph W.
Fordney, said :

In presenting the next speaker, I want to ask your indulgence
for a moment, to make a few statements as one engaged in the
woolen trade. Following the experiences through which we
passed only fourteen years ago, I was content in the thought that
if ever tariff revision came again, the experience of our industry
had been so disastrous and of such a national character that no
one would dare to lay an unkind finger on that industry.

When the time for the revision by the Republican party was
arranged, we proceeded to Washington to see what our status
was and what information was required by the proper committee
of the House of Representatives, who first took the matter up.
To my amazement, we found that in that body and on that com-
mittee the woolen industry was practically unknown, notwith-
standing the fact that only twelve years had passed since the
country had such a disastrous exhibition of what legislation could
do with that industry.

When we reflect that changes in politics, as well as business,
are rapidly going on ; when we realize that not only had Mr.
McKinley, the author of the McKinley bill of 1890, passed out of
existence but that Mr. Dingley, the chairman of the Ways and

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 12T

Means Committee, who made the later bill, had died ; that
General Grosvenor, who came from Ohio to the Ways and Means
Committee and who had always given special attention to the
woolen industry, was out of Congress, you can then realize what
ravages time makes. Out of nearly four hundred members
only about twenty remained that had been there at the time the
Dingley bill was made.

When the woolen schedule was taken up, there was practically
not a man in the popular branch of government that knew he
had a sheep in his district, let alone in his State, and to supple-
ment that difficulty an understanding had been arrived at by the
Republican members that any information which reached that
committee would have to reach it in the form of briefs or
written petition.

As Mr. Clark has said, Carnegie libraries had been written on
the woolen industry, if the quantity of literature was taken into
consideration ; but what particular phase of that industry the
Congressmen would want to investigate was beyond anybody's
knowledge. We were practically without friends in that great
committee in the House of Representatives, and all kinds of
accusations, all kinds of unfair statements were made against
the integrity of the business we are engaged in. It was only
after we had exercised great concern as to what our status was to
be in that revision, and to have our interests properly presented
before that great committee, that our attention was called to a
gentleman on the committee from the State of Michigan, a
business man like ourselves, of staunch and tried principles.
We were presented to him and in a kindly way he asked us what
our trouble was. We told him we were in the woolen trade and
" in bad " with the Ways and Means Committee and unable to reach
this committee with such information as we thought it should
have. Notwithstanding that he was there already representing
great interests, the lumber interest, the sugar interest, and the
silk interest which he had interested himself in, and was charged
with many other cares of that kind, the gentleman from Michi-
gan opened his ear and his splendid intelligence to our troubles
also. He asked us to bring our samples to his room and there
state the relative proposition between scoured wool, plain wool,
and worsted yarn. He familiarized himself in the hurly-burly of

128 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the revision of the tariff from the viewpoint of our industry
also, so that when the time came to vote on the revision he took
his samples down in the committee room and told his story before
these men; and notwithstanding that the chairman of that
committee was against the industry and was against some of the
duties as they stood with that committee, when this friend of
our industry got done with his exposition of it there, the
industry came out of that committee with the principles and
ratios intact.

Now, gentlemen, we have all read in history and in fiction of
men in days gone by that have achieved greatness and fame by
their bravery and by their heroism in saving nations and saving
lives in various ways. Their names have been handed down to
posterity as names to be revered ; but in these days, when the
great battles of nations are made up of battles in the business
world, when the nations fight with tariffs, instead of on the field
of battle, I hold that the man who can take an industry and save
it either from the bad legislation of its friends or the vicious
legislation of its enemies is as great a hero as the man who has
achieved greatness by force of military arms.

Such a man of great achievements I want to present to you, a
man who is the friend of every man in this room ; a man of true
and tried patriotism.

I take great pleasure in presenting to you the Honorable
Joseph W. Fordney, of Michigan.

ADDRESS OF CONGRESSMAN FORDNEY.

Congressman Fordney said :

Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen : I am truly grateful for
the invitation to be present at your banquet, given to our
mutual friend, John P. Wood, whom you have recently chosen as
the President of the Woolen Manufacturers Association, and it
is my opinion a wiser selection could not have been made for
your president. I thank you for the kind invitation to be here
to-night, and assure you I feel highly honored.

My acquaintance with Mr. Wood and many of his friends
here to-night has been only for the period of a few short years.
I first met Mr. Wood when he came before the Committee on

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 129

Ways and. Means of the House of Representatives, of which
committee I have the honor to be a member, and was heard in
the interest of your industry, in opposition to the lowering of
duties on wool and. woolen goods.

I was strongly opposed to the lowering of the rates of duties
in Schedule K, and when Mr. Wood and Mr. Grundy learned of
my attitude on this schedule they came to me — being interested
as they were — and volunteered to give me all the information
they could, to aid me in my work on that committee, and through
that acquaintance a friendship has arisen which I trust nothing
shall- ever mar. They have won my greatest confidence and
highest esteem.

I am a firm believer in protection to our domestic institutions,
and, of course, that means protection to our laborers. Why?
some may ask. There are many reasons why. First of all I am
a Republican, not an insurgent Republican, not a so-called pro-
gressive Republican, but a real Republican, a protectionist, a
stalwart, old-time, dyed in the wool protectionist, and in my
opinion no man is a good Republican who is not a real protec-
tionist and believes in all that the term protectionist means.

The Republican party came into control of national affairs
over fifty years ago ; it came into life advocating protection, and
every platform adopted by that party in convention, from its
birth down to the present time, has advocated, as its slogan, the
policy of protection, and under that policy our people have pros-
pered as no other people in the world have ever prospered.

The wool and woolen industries have succeeded in this country
under that policy, and without protection could not survive a
single decade on account of the competition of the cheaper paid
labor of Europe and the Orient. Give this industry adequate
protection and the capital and labor employed will thrive ; give
it free trade and you will wipe out the industry from this coun-
try. What is true of the woolen industry is true of every
important industry in this country.

The men of greatest importance amongst us are the ones with
capital invested in the various industries and different lines of
manufacture ; but, I am sorry to say, the political bodies of our
various States, and the national government can, by their acts,
as legislators, by giving us good or bad laws, bring about busi-

130 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ness depression or be largely responsible for business prosperity^
and while it is necessary for every business man to give the
closest and most strict attention to his business affair if he
succeeds, it is also necessary that he should devote a portion of
his time to the selection of candidates to public office. We are
all quite apt to be neglectful of our duty to go to our caucuses
or to attend primary elections and take part in the selection of
representative men to our legislative halls. In many instances
politicians of low grade bring such dissatisfaction to the general
public in their selection of men for office that the average busi-
ness man becomes displeased and many times disgusted with the
procedure, and remains away from the polls, thus enabling the
unscrupulous politicians to gain office.

It is of the greatest importance, therefore, that at the proper
time all business men should give sufficient attention and con-
sideration to the selection of candidates to office, and then, if
possible, aid in their election.

There are plenty of men in public life occupying positions of
public trust (elected to such offices by the votes of the people)
who wholly disregard the best interest and welfare of the masses
of the people, or the capital invested in our great industries,
unless their vote, when cast, is in the interest of their political
lives.

Men called upon to put upon our statute books laws to govern
the people of the United States should be of the highest character.
Men in public office should cast aside their selfish political aspira-
tions and bend their efforts to the best interest of all the people

We have had, in the past, and at the present time, in my
opinion, we have men in high office who aim to build political
castles solely for themselves, and this, too, with the knowledge
that their actions are not for the best interest of the people they
claim to represent.

Permit me to say, any man in public life who would, for per-
sonal gain, destroy his neighbor or even discriminate against him,
is unworthy of reasonable consideration by the good people of
this country.

The man who plays to the galleries should and generally does
live but a short political life ; such men, when found out by the
people, are soon relegated to the rear. At this particular time

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 131

many seem to be seeking popular favor by criticising the Payne
tariff law.

If I were to wish something bad upon the ones who are loudest
in their criticism of this law, I would wish upon them the task of
preparing a perfect tariff law which they talk about, one that
would please all concerned ; that would decrease the cost of every-
thing consumed and increase the price of labor. It is easy to
criticise ; so easy to make high-sounding, pleasing statements of
how things should be ; it is easy to destroy and so hard to build
up. I admire a good, sound practical man with practical reasons
for practical suggestions, a man who offers something better for
that which he condemns, a man who builds up rather than destroys.
An exhibition of unfriendliness, of misstatement of facts, is no
display of intelligence. In such matters intelligence is only
shown by furnishing proof of the unfriendly allegations made.

There is before the Senate of the United States, at the present
time, a proposed trade treaty aifecting imports coming into the
United States from Canada and our exports to Canada. In
my opinion this agreement was too hastily prepared, and is very
faulty, and if enacted into law would be one in which there is
more discrimination against agriculturalists than, perhaps, in any
other law upon our statute books. It is proposed by the framers
of that measure to admit into our markets, free of duty, all
agricultural products. It proposes no reductions whatever of
duties on farm machinery coming in from Canada, but provides
for a small reduction on our farm machinery exported to Canada.

The word reciprocity is a pleasing one to the ears of many of
our citizens, but there are many kinds of reciprocity treaties
proposed these days.

The greatest men of the Kepublican party who heretofore have
favored reciprocity with foreign countries have never, in a single
instance, in public utterances or with the pen, suggested reci-
procity on competitive articles. Charles Emory Smith, late Post-
master General, in defining reciprocity, said :

" When rightly understood the principle is axiomatic. Brazil
grows coffee, but makes no machinery. We make machinery,
but grow no coffee. She needs the fabrics of our factories and
forges, and we need the fruits of her tropical soil. We agree to
concessions for her coffee ; she agrees to concessions for our
machinery. That is reciprocity."

132 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

William McKinley, in his inaugural address of 1897, in speak-
ing of reciprocity, said :

" The end in view always to be the opening up of new markets
for the products of our country by granting concessions to
products of other lands that we need and cannot produce our-
selves and which do not involve any loss of labor to our own
people, but tend to increase their employment."

Does the proposed trade agreement with Canada, as its friends
claim, conform with the sound policies laid down by McKinley ?
Decidedly no. On the other hand, it would grant concessions to
Canadian products which we do not need and which we can
produce ourselves and which involve a loss of labor to our
farmers.

In speaking of the Canadian Keciprocity Treaty of 1855, Mr.
Morrill said :

" The Canadian reciprocity treaty demonstrated the profitless-
ness of reciprocity treaties with foreign countries whose products
or exchange are chiefly agricultural and which we do not want."

He believed, as did Blaine and McKinley, that products
admitted into the United States free of duty must not compete
with those produced by us, and in any agreement the concessions
obtained by us must be fully equivalent in the volume of trade
thereby gained to those made by the countries with which the
arrangements were entered into. But, in this Canadian Trade
Agreement, it must be remembered that we are giving away the
market of 90,000,000 of people for the trade of 7,500,000 of
people, a population not more than equivalent to the population
of the State of New York.

If this treaty gave us advantages equivalent to those given
away by us to Canada, I could and would feel quite different
toward the matter. But this agreement gives Canada on all her
agricultural products free access to our markets without the pay-
ment of any duty. Flour and dressed meats of every kind
remain on the protective list, while wheat, cattle, hogs, and sheep
are placed on the free list.

By this proposed treaty, we are to accept, free of duty, print
paper and wood pulp, while at the same time provincial restric-
tions in Canada exclude from our pulp mills and saw mills any
of Canada's raw forest materials, pulp wood and saw logs. I

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 133

submit that if it is fair that we should accept Canada's finished
forest products, arrangements should be entered into giving us
access to her forests' raw materials. But there is another feat-
ure of that trade treaty of great importance to our people, and
that is, with the single exception of corn meal and condensed
milk, England still retains an advantage over us on her goods
going into Canada by rates of duties ranging from 10 to 33 per
cent below rates proposed to be fixed on our exports to Canada.
Of course, on the articles on the free list, we are placed upon a
plane with England in Canadian markets, but England has no
agricultural products to send to Canada. In fact, the situation is
right the reverse, and ^hile Canada is an export nation on all
agricultural products, this agreement seems to me to be somewhat
one-sided.

I speak of this trade treaty here to-night because, in my opin-
ion, any law placed upon our statute books that will affect the
purchasing power of the people of the United States is of vital
importance to the growers of wool and the manufacturers of
woolens. Our people purchased and consumed, last year,
between 25 and 30 billion dollars' worth of products of home
production and manufacture, while the whole world outside of
the United States imported not more than one-half that amount.
I ask, do you think it wise to jeopardize our magnificent home
market for the possibility of gaining a portion of that trade
abroad, when you know that in the foreign markets you must sell
at low prices or you caniiot sell at all, for in these foreign
markets, you compete on no better than equal terms with the
cheapest paid labor in the world.

Your industries have, beyond question, prospered under pro-
tection, and under free trade from 1894 to 1897 your industries
not only suffered loss of business and profits, but many of your
institutions went into bankruptcy.

ADDRESS OF WILLIAM M. WOOD.

Toastmaster Grundy then said :

We have the presence of a number of gentlemen from New
England who have made the journey to be present here this
evening and bear their testimony and good will toward Captain

134 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Wood's administration of the affairs of the National Associa-
tion.

One of these gentlemen I want to ask to say a word, although
he came entirely unprepared — a gentleman whose activity in
our industry has been most forcible, who has certainly been a
general in the industry, if such term can be applied to an
industry, one who has pushed forward not only the standard of
American goods, but the protection of American goods to the
point where we, like the other industries, can say we are now
producing 95 per cent at least of all the goods of the woolen
market of the United States to clothe ninety odd million of the
most prosperous people in the world.

Gentlemen, this evening would not be complete unless we had
a few words from Mr. William M. Wood, president of the
American Woolen Company.

Mr. Wood was cordially received, the whole assemblage
rising in honor of him. He was listened to with close atten-
tion. He said :

Mr. Toastmasteb and Gentlemen : I was never more sur-
prised in my life. In the first place I do not believe you know
who I am or where I come from. I want to say with great pride
that I am from Boston. That makes me think of the woman
who rode in the bus one afternoon and she passed a milestone
which said, <' 1 M to Boston." She said, '' When I die that is
what I want written on my gravestone — 1 M from Boston."

I read a great deal about Philadelphia being slow, but being
from Boston I think you are " 1 M " ahead of us.

When I received the invitation to come here to dine to-night
I accepted with the provision that I wasn't to be called upon to
make any speech. I am not a speaker or an after-dinner talker ;
I am only a plain poor woolen manufacturer trying to defend
Schedule K. I am what they call a stand-patter. I never have
spoken in Faneuil Hall, the Cradle of Liberty, and I have never
spoken in your Independence Hall where you have your Liberty
Bell, but I am told that of all the rooms throughout the whole
country there is no room like this for liberty taking. This par-
ticular room, I am told, is famous for liberties. Now, the hour
is getting very late and I don't want to detain you. There is

TN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 135

really nothing that I can add to the distinguished remarks of the
gentleman from Michigan, or your very much beloved late
ex-Governor, and yet, since you have done me the honor of
insisting, I will try to say a few words that may interest you.

Now, I opened the year 1910 with the liveliest expectations. I
thought I would resign from my business on January 1, 1911,
with the greatest record that any woolen manufacturer in the
world had ever made. Now, why ? Because a gentleman, a
personal friend of mine, a man whom I think a great deal of,
a man who moves in the Civic Federation with the highest
honors, a man who is well regarded in the highest circles and by
nobodies, with Andrew Carnegie and all the great men of New
York, had gone into Washington and whispered into the ear of
the President of the United States that the woolen manufac-
turers were robbing the people of this country of f 120,000,000
for that year. Has anybody heard of $120,000,000 being
dropped anywhere ? I am hoping this year with less optimism.
I don't think my directors are expecting me to resign, but I
haven't made the record I want to make. I didn't get a hand on
the $120,000,000. But there was only a slight mistake made.
The gentleman simply made a slight mistake, and of course he
was forgiven for it — it wasn't the woolen manufacturers who
had lost that $120,000,000 ; it was the wool growers who lost
it, caused through discrimination between wools. The gentleman
now confesses that he made a mistake. It wasn't the woolen
manufacturers who were going to rob the $120,000,000 from
the people, but it was the tariff going to discriminate on fine
wools and that is all.

Now the woolen business is a business of a lifetime. We are
here to stay. They tell me that if you once get into it it is a life
sentence, and I begin to believe it. I understand that most of
you gentlemen present, or many of you, are not woolen manu-
facturers, but whatever happened to Schedule K will happen to
every other industry. To those who are interested in Schedule
K, I want to say that your backs are against the wall, that you
now have the fight of your life before you. You have got to
make an effort if you want to have that industry succeed.

There is a feeble voice we hear now from Cincinnati that the
woolen manufacturers are not making the woolen goods demanded

136 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

in this country. If there has been any part of this country
demanding poor goods I leave it to you if it has not been
Cincinnati. I have in my warehouse millions of pounds of the
finest wool in the world grown right in your own State, in Ohio,
and wool grown in Australia, waiting for orders to make of the
finest goods in the world, but I don't get those orders.

They are all after something pretty nearly carpet wool. Now,
when the cry goes out that we American manufacturers don't
make fine goods we can only reply that we make what the trade
wants. We are ready to make anything they want.

However, every mill through this whole country is dull. We
would be glad to turn out any kind of goods that the people in
America want. Miss Ida Tarbell says there are no woolen goods
manufactured in this country, that we are driving the people to
tuberculosis through cotton and other goods because we are
robbing them and not making woolen goods. I would like to
know what becomes of the 300,000,000 pounds that we raise in
this country and the 250,000,000 pounds that are imported from
abroad. If we don't make woolen goods what becomes of all
that ? No nation in the world uses wool so freely as we Ameri-
cans, but an article to that effect would not sound well in the
muck-raking magazines ; maybe Ida Tarbell wouldn't be wanted if
she told the exact situation instead of painting the picture of the
Governor of Rhode Island's residence in its magnificence and on
the other hand the picture of a hovel that has been abandoned
for half a century as a contrast between wealth on one side and
the oppressed on the other.

That sort of article sells in the magazines to-day, but if they
would go to the American Woolen Company's houses at Law-
rence or to the American Woolen Company's houses at May-
nard, they would find that the tenement houses of old, of five
and six families in the tenement house, were things of the past.
The American Woolen Company has built three hundred separate
individual homes all furnished with bath tubs, individual homes
where an employee can have his family under one roof and know
where his family is at night, and not the six or seven-family
tenement house with its attic rooms divided between the families
so that the man did not know where his daughter or his son was
at night.

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 137

The American Woolen Company has built in the city of Law-
rence individual houses of this class for its help. The company
believes that by treating its help well this will be recognized
and appreciated. These people who didn't know what bath tubs
were, who used them for the storage of potatoes and coal, have
come to know what good the proper use of bath tubs will bring
about. And that work is going on not only with the American
Woolen Company, but with many other industries throughout
this land. The people who run these great industries nowadays
are humane. They want the people who work for them to be
comfortable because they know if they treat the help well they
will get the best kind of help and no other kind of help will do.
The machinery in our mills is extremely valuable. We can't
afford to leave the machinery to the utterly ignorant and incom-
petent help.

The textile industry to-day has in the woolen and worsted line
the best body of the help employed. According to the census
of the United States, the increase of wages in the woolen mills
in the last ten years has been nearly 30 per cent over the past.
Mr. Roosevelt said that protection means equalization of wages
here with abroad, with a fair margin of profit. What is to be
done about increased wages hereafter? We need more than
that. I am such a stand-patter — so unfashionable — that I doubt
that even you here would agree with me, but if I had my way I
would put around this country the highest protective walls
because it is the most valuable market in the world and I would
put a barbed wire around that. And I would keep this market
for the people who live here and who are enjoying the highest
wages in the world. I read a report recently that the Japan-
ese, who only a few years ago did not buy a pound of wool
anywhere, bought in Melbourne last year over J^ 8,000,000 of
wool. How are you going to compete with that kind of compe-
tition? I am a loyal Republican, I am a great admirer of our
President, for whom I have the most profound respect, and no
citizen of this country can claim higher patriotism than myself,
but I cannot understand how a president elected under a pro-
tection platform for a protection country can forget himself so
far as to say that he is committed to Canada in this reciprocity
business, in preference to the United States.

138 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The first duty of any American, whether he is the humblest or the
one in the highest exalted office, is to his country and the United
States. His first duty must be to his country and Canada second.
We are a great country. We ought to be familiar with great
affairs. We ought to say to Canada, "Look at yourself, you are
only seven millions. In the last ten years we have grown ten mil-
lions, 50 per cent more than what you are from the foundation,
from the discovery of your country, 50 per cent greater in ten years.
We are increasing at the rate of over a million a year in emigra-
tion alone, to say nothing about the natural increase of popu-
lation." You can say to her that when she is willing to enjoy
the prosperity that this country has, and put up the same protec-
tion that we pvit up, there is no question about reciprocity, the
barriers will fall down naturally. Fix your foreign policy like
men, we may say, and instead of having seven millions as a result
of four or five hundred years, you will get them in ten. We
will open up America with its ninety millions against your seven
if you will put the protection against the foreigner that we do.

Within ten days I have received from the Secretary of State a
very courteous letter, asking me what I would like to suggest for
the Government in regard to foreign markets. That is your
administration ! The Secretary of State asked me what I would
do to promote the foreign trade. I replied I had no suggestions
to make. If they cannot see that this is the greatest argument
in the world to hold the American markets for ourselves, then I
have nothing to say. Ask the emigrant who comes in at New
York what he earned abroad at Alsace, in France, in Germany,
or in England, and go up to the gates of your mills and my mills,
ask them what they earn. That ought to be a good object lesson.

I tell you, gentlemen, the newspapers run this country. The
editors of the papers of America are individual kings. They
mould public opinion, and they mould it so that the consumers
pay for the advertisement. The first intimation that I received
about the expense that this Government was put to by the trans-
portation of the muck-raking magazines and the yellow journals
was from a Philadelphian. I do not think Philadelphia is slow
at all. I have learned to respect Philadelphia a great deal.
That gentleman spoke in New York and he told us that this
Government spent every year $62,000,000 and that there is a

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 139

deficit in the Post Office Department for that amount in the
transportation of the merchandise of the muck-raking press.
Naturally it occurred to me that we honest manufacturers, honest
woolen manufacturers — and I never heard of any other kind —
contribute to the revenue of this Government $20,000,000 a year,
our just share towards promoting this Government. Then to
have a press so tainted, so conscienceless as to say that we are
beneficiaries, and are enjoying special privileges, when they
themselves are soaking us three times more than we pay for just
contributions for revenue, is certainly remarkable. We ought
unblushingly go to Washington and say, "Transport my mer-
chandise to Chicago. It is better that you should transport the
woolen goods of this country that the people may have clothing
than to transport magazines that are horribly bad, because it is
better that the people of this country should be warmed with
woolen goods than to be fed with a lot of literature that is dam-
aging the country and that is absolutely and positively injurious
to the people who read it."

I read an article in the " Sun " the other morning about the
educational advantages of these magazines, and that therefore on
that ground they should be transported. Is there anything more
infamous and more damaging than literature that shuts down
your mills ? Is there anything more wicked than the talk of
employees who have been thrown out of work, as they have been
since that damaging speech at Winona ? I have seen my looms
shut down since that speech ; I have seen our help on the street,
and they are there to-day. We are paying the highest schedule
of wages ever known in the woolen business ; but the help care
little for schedules unless they are schedules that fill their
envelopes, and no schedule will fill their envelopes unless you
have peace in business.

ADDRESS OF EX-GOVERNOK STUART.

In introducing ex-Governor Stuart, Toastinaster Grund}^
said:

This evening we have the very great honor of having with us
our ex-Governor who so ably administered the duties of that
great office that we really did not know that we had been
governed. In the discharge of his official duty we all grew

340 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

to look upon him with the keenest regard and with the greatest
respect, with affection and admiration, and I feel he has paid us
a very great compliment indeed in coming here to-night to be
our guest and say a few words to us in regard to our dis-
tinguished guest.

1 take great pleasure in introducing ex-Governor Edwin S.
Stuart.

Ex-Governor Stuart said :

Mr. Toastmastek and Gentlemen : I did not really come
here to-night to make an address, because as each speaker said,
it is something a little out of my line. My entire life has been
spent in business, with a little dip every now and then out into
public life, and back again. When I heard your distinguished
Congressman from Michigan speak here to-night I was very
proud to hear him say that his ancestors came from Pennsylva-
nia. I am glad to have been here to-night to hear such a prod-
uct of Pennsylvania. I want to say here that Lancaster
County, in Pennsylvania, where his father and mother lived, is
the leading agricultural county in the United States. There is
no people more prosperous, or no better citizenship than is found
among the Pennsylvania Dutch in Lancaster County, and there
are no better or stronger stalwart believers in the policy of pro-
tection than in Lancaster County. They believe that if any
revision of the tariff is needed it must be made by the party that
believes in the policy of protection as a principle, and not by
those who believe in the opposite.

Instead of this being a testimonial to our friend, Mr. Wood,
it has developed into a good, old-fashioned Republican meet-
ing, with good old-fashioned Republican doctrines. In that
case I feel at home, of course, because I am here to-night by
reason of my friends. Campion and Grundy, inducing me to
come ; secondly, because I wanted to come and show my appre-
ciation of the distinguished guest of the evening. Campion is
like the old fireman of olden days. All you had to do was to
stand in front of his house and holler "■ Fire," and he would
come out. If Campion is in bed, all you have got to do is to go
and say, " Schedule K," and out he comes. If Campion is down
at Cape May bathing, and somebody hollers, " There is something

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD. 141

the matter with Schedule K," he comes out, dresses, and talks to
you. In fact, on all his stationery, I am told, and upon all his
linen he has had stamped " K," for Kampion. Campion has
gone so far that, to show his faith in the matter, he spells his
name K-a-m-p-i-o-n.

I did not come here to-night, as I said, to make any address,
but I was very much gratified at hearing the two addresses
delivered to-night. I did come to say a word, not in the sense of
flattery or anything of that kind, of a man who was a Pennsyl-
vanian and a Philadelphian ; but I want to say that there is no
place in this country under God's footstool that has done more
for the policy of protection than the State of Pennsylvania. ' We
have stood for it inside and outside all the time, because we
believed in it and because we believed it was right, and because
we believed and believe that it was and is for the best interests
of this republic.

The guest of the evening is one of a family of Philadelphians
who stand for the highest type of citizenship and the highest
type of business integrity. Every man ought to give some time
to some of the public work in the district or vicinity or State or
city in which he lives ; but we are very derelict, some of us, in
that regard. I know I am in a Republican assemblage, and I
believe that there is nothing that compels a Republican to stand
for anything but decency in politics and honesty in the manage-
ment of public affairs. No man who does not believe in these
two principles is fit to be a Republican, and I do not think we
want him in the Republican party.

Now, my friends, I just came here to-night to say for President
Wood that in every point of life, upon every occasion, he has per-
formed his duty, he has had the courage of his convictions.
I am particularly gratified to be here to-night, and say " God
speed " to him in his new work. I am satisfied he will be suc-
cessful because he never takes hold of anything in which he
does not believe he is right and he never stops until he brings it
to a successful determination.

ADDRESS OF PRESIDENT WOOD.

Toastmaster Grundy, in introducing President John P.
Wood, remarked that in accepting the position of President
of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers Mr.

142 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Wood had done this from his high sense of duty which he owed
to the industry in which he had passed practically his entire
life. He would appreciate beyond any words of eulogy that
support, that encouragement, in the work he had before him
that was more important than everything else, and that would
most aid him in his new field of labor.

President Wood was received with very hearty applause,
the guests rising and cheering three times vigorously for him.
He bowed his thanks and began his brief speech, speaking of
the imminent tariff question, and appealing to his hearers to
work for laws that would give justice to manufacturers, and
for the maintenance of the American system of protection.
He thanked his friends for their cordial reception and invoked
their strong, united and individual support in the crisis now
confronting the industry in Washington. Mr. Wood was
again heartily cheered as he sat down.

The speech-making of the evening was closed most
felicitously by Charles H. Harding of the Erben-Harding
Company, who paid a warm tribute to Mr. Wood for his
sagacity as a counsellor and power as an executive. Mr.
Harding expressed the utmost faith that the new administra-
tion of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers
would justify all the expectations entertained of it. His
knowledge of the life and character of President Wood was
sufficient assurance of the high level of efficiency that
would be maintained. Mr. Wood would coolly, quietly, and
courageously do his duty by the industry, and it was
a pleasant thought to Mr. Harding himself and to Frederic
S. Clark that they were associated with Mr. Wood as Vice-
presidents of the Association of which he was the head.

Those who were present at the dinner were :

JAMES AKEROYD, F. A. BROWN,

WILLIAM ANDERSON, JACOB F. BROWN,

GEO. W. ATHERHOLT, WILSON H. BROWN,

F. W. ANCONA, BENJAMIN BULLOCK, Jr.,

WILLIAM BATEMAN, ALFRED E. BURK,

F. M. BLACKSTONE, Jr., JOHN BURT,

CHAS. F. BOCHMANN, RICHARD CAMPION,

E. K. BREADY, JOHN M. CLARKE,

IN HONOR OF PRESIDENT WOOD.

143

BENJAMIN COATES,
WILLIAM M. COATES,
G; WINTHROP COFFIN,
JOSEPH A. COLEMAN,
J. J. COLLINS,
C. L. CONNELLY,
EDMOND CORCORAN,
JOHN W. CROFT,
FREDERIC S. CLARK,
ARTHUR M. COX,
JOHN J. COLLIER,
JAMES DOBSON,
ALBAN EVANSON,
FREDERICK EICK,
ALEXANDER ERSKINE,
ALBERT W. ELLIOTT,
JOHN ECOB,
JOHN FISLER,

A. A. FLEISHER,

B. W. FLEISHER,
JOHN M. FRIES,
HENRY A. FRANCIS,
E. W. FRANCE,
WM. H. FOLWELL,
W. T. GALEY, Jr.,
FRANK H. GALEY,
CHAS. L. GILLELAND,
QUINCEY A. GILLMORE,
ARTHUR W. GREAVES,
CHAS. W. GREAVES,
JOHN E. GREAVES,
JOSEPH R. GRUNDY,

C. H. HARDING,
WILLIAM HENRY,

H. SHERWOOD HICKS,
GEORGE C. HETZEL,
ROBERT S. IRWIN,
EDWARD JEFFERSON,
GEORGE W. KRITLER,
H. C. LAWRENCE,
WM. B. LEECH.
EDWARD LEGGE,
J. WALTER LEVERING,
0. W. LONG,
W. H. LONG,

ANDREW MacALLISTER,
THOMAS J. MacEVOY,
GEORGE S. McCARTY,
ARTHUR K. MARSDEN,
WILLIAM C. MELCHER,
CALEB J. MILNE, Jr.,
ALLEN R. MITCHELL,
CLARENCE L. MITCHELL,
L. P. MULLER,
WINTHROP L. MARVIN,
FRANCIS T. MAXWELL,
JAMES W. MILLS,
A. M. PATTERSON,
JAMES POLLOCK,
CHAS. PORTER,
CHAS. PORTER, Jr.,
JOSEPH H. PARVIN,
JOHN B. S. REX,
WM. H. RICHARDSON,
SAMUEL D. RIDDLE,
WM. COX ROBB,
L. F. SCHAEFFER,
JOHN H. SEAL,
W. M. SHARPLES, Jr.,
CHAS. F. SLOAN,
JOHN W. SMYTH,
EDWARD A. SNYDER,
LEWIS C. SPRING,
STANLEY R. STAGER,
JOSEPH D. SWOYER,
MITCHELL STEAD,
H. H. SKERRETT,
A. M. TOWNSON,
ERNEST R. TOWNSON,
CHARLES F. UNDERWOOD,
C. H. VANDERBECK,
H. ST. CLAIR WAGNER,
SAMUEL W. WHAN,
THOS. H. WILSON,
ALFRED WOLSTENHOLMB,
HOLLIS WOLSTENHOLME,
WILLIAM M. WOOD,
HERMAN J. WATERHOUSE,
EMIL WALTHER.

144 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

©bttuarp.

HENRY M. STEEL.

Mr. Henry M. Steel, a widely known manufacturer and
public-spirited citizen and an able writer on economic topics, died
on February 1, in the Germantown Hospital. Mr. Steel was the
head of the firm of Edward T. Steel & Company of Bristol, Pa.,
and was seventy years of age. He was a native of Philadelphia,
descended from an English Quaker family that came to America
in Colonial days. One of his ancestors was treasurer of the
Commonwealth of Pennsylvania under William Penn. Mr.
Henry M. Steel was the youngest of five brothers, three of whom
had borne a conspicuous part in the public life of Philadelphia.
Mr. Edward T. Steel, the founder of the mills, was long president
of the Board of Education, and Mr. William G. Steel, before
becoming a resident English partner of the firm, had been an
active member of the Committee of One Hundred that wielded
such powerful influence in municipal reform in Philadelphia, fol-
lowing the Centennial Exposition of 1876.

Though of Quaker lineage, Mr. Henry M. Steel as a young man
took his musket and joined a New York regiment, marching to
the front when General Lee's army was invading Pennsylvania.

His business life won wide recognition for him as a remarkably
sagacious manufacturer. His firm had mills in Bradford, Eng-
land, and produced there goods for the markets of America, but
after the McKinley law was passed the Steels established a plant
in this country, bringing over their machinery and being followed
by many of their operatives.

This double experience of practical business conditions on both
sides of the Atlantic gave a peculiar weight of authority to Mr.
Henry M. Steel's vigorous writings on the tariff question. Many
strong articles came from his trenchant pen, and he had rendered
especially good service to the industry in recent defences of
Schedule K against the attacks of sensational magazine writers.
His fellow-manufacturers of Philadelphia and vicinity had great
regard for Mr. Steel, and his death has brought deep sorrow to
the men of his calling everywhere.

HENRY M. STEEL

OBITUARY. 145

In social life Mr. Steel was always a great favorite. He was a
studious, traveled man, and a most delightful comrade. He was a
director of the Penn iSTational Bank, and a member of the Union
League Club, the Philadelphia Country Club, the Germantown
Cricket Club, the City Club, the Historical Society of Pennsyl-
vania, and the Colonial Society of Pennsylvania. Mr. Steel
married Mary Thorn Justice, and is survived by his widow, one
son, Warner Justice Steel, and three daughters, Miss ^Mariana
Justice Steel, Mrs. Robert W. Swift, and Mrs. JS'ewell C. Bradley.

WILLIAM R. DUPEE.

Mr. William R. Dupee, a retired wool merchant, died at his
home in Boston, January 20, at the age of sixty-nine. Mr.
Dupee had been for more than half a century, before his retire-
ment in 1905, one of the best known and most highly regarded
of Boston wool merchants. His firm was originally Nichols,
Parker & Dupee, becoming Nichols, Dupee & Company in 1874.
The business is still continued by Dupee & Meadows, Arthur
Dupee of the firm being a son of William R. Dupee.

His associates in the wool trade prepared the following
memorial :

" The death of Mr. William R. Dupee comes as a shock to the
wool trade, although he had retired from the business several
years ago. He was for many years one of the leading men in
the business, a man of upright character and sterling honesty,
whose word was as good as his bond. He was fair in his com-
petition and generous with his friends. His opinion was con-
sulted and valued by the banks, and up to two weeks ago he
attended meetings of the Five Cent Savings Bank, where he was
a, director.

" Although for some years past he has not been an active
member of the wool trade, we nevertheless feel that his death
comes to us as a personal loss, and with this feeling we hereby
tender to his family this expression of our appreciation of his
worth and our heartfelt sympathy to them in their bereavement."

146 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

(^tritortal anti iittiustrial JKtscellattp,

THE EXTKA SESSION OF CONGEESS.

AN OPPORTUNITY FOR EARLY ATTACK BY THE ANTI-
PROTECTIONIST PARTY.

Because of the failure of the Canadian reciprocity agreement
the Sixty-second Congress, with its Democratic House of Repre-
sentatives, is called by the President to assemble in extra session
on April 4, 1911. This action has been anticipated ever since it
became manifest that the farmers of the country were opposed
to the agreement, and were impressing their views forcibly upon
their Senators and Representatives in Washington.

At a meeting of the Executive Committee of the National
Association of Wool Manufacturers in Boston on February 16,
1911, the following resohition was adopted :

" Resolved, by the Executive Committee of the National Asso-
ciation of Wool Manufacturers, That it is the sense of this
Committee that no action should be taken by the United States
Senate on the Canadian reciprocity agreement until there have
been not only a thorough examination of the details of the agree-
ment, but a mature consideration by the American people of the
probable effect upon our farming and fishing interests, our com-
mercial relations under treaty with other countries, and the
American system of protection."

American wool manufacturers, are not among those men of
business who would sacrifice the farmers' interests for their own
supposed advantage. The National Association has been con-
sistently opposed for many years to any plan of reciprocity with
Canada which would give the cheaper labor and cheaper land of
the Dominion free access to the great markets of our Northern
States. Certainly no such step as that contemplated in the
Canadian agreement should be taken without ample opportunity
for consideration by the national law-makers. The resentment of
the farmers would have been all the more sharp and disastrous if
the agreement had been " jammed through " the Senate before
the adjournment of the Sixty -first Congress on March 4th.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 147

It is the manifest purpose of the Democratic leaders in the
National House to begin at this extra session their program of
tariff revision and reduction. Doubtless the wool and woolen
schedule will be an early target for attack. As a sympathetic
Washington correspondent naively writes of the purpose of some
of the anti-protection statesmen : '' Developments show plainly
that the only kind of tariff revision that can succeed at once
will be that which is directed against manufactured commodities
so located as to have only a limited geographical support. In
short, there has been a decided reappearance of tariff sectionalism,
and the outlook now is for a vigorous assault by Western, Middle
Western, and Southern men upon the manufactured products of
the Eastern States."

Thus the baleful spirit of sectional hatred is being early
invoked by those who hope to profit by its influence. Of course,
this Southern and Western assault upon the " manufactured
products of the Eastern States " will be heartily approved by
the manufacturing interests of Europe. History is repeating
itself in this particular. It was believed by the framers of the
Gorman- Wilson tariff that the wool and woolen schedule had
" only a limited geographical support." And yet the popular
verdict upon the Gorman-Wilson law bore no strictly sectional
character — the Congressional elections of 1894 resulted in a
protectionist majority of 114 in the National House of Repre-
sentatives. A new generation of statesmen has arisen since that
time. We would commend a careful perusal of the election
returns of November, 1894, to those gentlemen who may imagine
that only a few persons in New England, New York, and Penn-
sylvania have any interest in the maintenance of adequate
protection for the industries concerned in Schedule K.

Though the anti-protectionist party has a majority of more
than 60 in the National House, the Senate of the Sixty-second
Congress remains at least in the nominal control of protectionist
Senators. The actual control is held by a group of ten or
twelve so-called " insurgents " or " progressives." These " pro-
gressive " senators, if their attitude is properly indicated by
the amendments which the late Senator DoUiver and Senator
LaFollette offered to the Aldrich-Payne law, are opposed to any
reduction whatsoever in the rates of duty on the raw wool of

148 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

their constituents. This circumstance is sure to be a serious
stumbling block to any effort of the anti-protectionist leaders to
force a downward revision of Schedule K through both houses
of Congress at the extra session, which must end before Decem-
ber next.

The farmers of the West have been able to make the " pro-
gressive " Senators understand that they touch the wool duties
at their peril. But the wool-growing industry in this country
would not be more surely sacrificed by free wool than by a radi-
cal reduction of the duties on woolen goods, which would turn
the American market over to Europe. It makes very little
difference to American farmers and ranchmen whether the foreign
product enters this country in the form of raw wool or of finished
fabrics. In either case American wool is crowded out — for the
one market for American wool is the American mill, and the
American wool grower is dependent absolutely for his prosperity
on the continued prosperity of the American manufacturer. Here
is a hard, economic fact which bids fair to baffle all the calcula-
tions of sectional hate. In the broadest and truest sense of the
term, the business of wool growing and wool manufacturing is a
great national industry.

A NEW DEPARTURE.

THE MEETING AND DINNER OF THE NATIONAL ASSOCIA-
TION AND ITS FRIENDS IN WASHINGTON.

It is a new departure on the part of the National Association
of Wool Manufacturers to have its annual meeting and banquet
in Washington. Hitherto these anniversaries have been observed
in Boston, New York, or Philadelphia. But the suggestion to
visit Washington this year was heartily and unanimously
approved by the Executive Committee, and is appai'ently justi-
fied by the result, for the meeting in Washington was as large
as the meetings previously held. The members and friends of
the Association did not seem to be daunted by the distance. All
of the manufacturing centers were well represented, and this
was particularly true of the great cluster of mills in and around
the city of Philadelphia.

But the circumstance which gave the Washington meeting its

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 149

great distinction was the presence at the dinner of a large group
of eminent public men who could not possibly have journeyed
over to New York or Boston. To the Speaker of the House and the
Senators and Representatives and members of the Tariff Board,
the Vice-President of the United States would have been added
but for an unexpected demand which called him away from
Washington. Mr. Sherman had been invited and had accepted
and his appearance and words were eagerly looked for.

The advantage of the Washington gathering is that there the
public men heard direct from manufacturers, at first hand, the
essential truths about the industry and its need of national
protection and encouragement. On the other hand, it was a
privilege to the members of the Association to meet and hear
these public men. It is to be hoped that the Senators and
Representatives who attended the dinner have a clearer under-
standing of the needs and interests of the wool manufacture in
the United States. They have seen face to face the leaders of
this industry and have talked with them, and such personal con-
tact and acquaintance cannot but be helpful on both sides.

To Speaker Cannon, Senator Lodge, Senator Warren, and
Chairman Emery of the Tariff Board, the Association would
make hearty acknowledgment for their presence and their
addresses. The time was all too short to say what needed to be
said, but it is manifest that the public men themselves and the
country thoroughly approve the frank and open attitude of the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers. The Association
went down to Washington to tell its story in a straightforward
fashion, and cordially invited a great number of the representa-
tives of the press, so that what was said and done should be
circulated as freely and as far as possible. The effort along this
line was an unquestioned success.

But though the holding of this annual gathering at Wash-
ington is a new departure, the policy of frankly and fully stating
the case is not a new one on the part of this Association. In
every tariff revision since 1865 the National Association of Wool
Manufacturers has prepared its case with the utmost care and
has submitted this without reservation to the national law-
makers. The records of the Association and the thousands of
pages of the quarterly Bulletin are sufficient witness that the
Association has always believed in doing its part to let the light
in upon the intricacies of Schedule K and the actual conditions

150 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of the wool manufacturing industry in America. This was con-
spicuously true of the recent Aldrich-Payne revision. Several
hundred pages of the testimony of the Committee on Ways and
Means are occupied exclusively with the evidence gathered and
presented by this Association.

No other commercial body in the country probably contributed
one-half so much in the way of specific facts and figures to a
thorough understanding of any important industry. This testi-
mony was the work not of one or two men, but of many men —
practical manufacturers, bearing heavy responsibilities, who
gladly gave of their time and strength to show, line by line and
paragraph by paragraph, the actual working of the tariff as it
affects the wool manufacture, the need of adequate protection
and the danger of any large reduction in the protective duties.
The real reason why Schedule K was not radically changed in
the Aldrich-Payne law was that the arguments submitted by the
manufacturers were unanswerable. They were unanswerable
because they were honestly and carefully prepared. They left
the opposition no opportunity to do anything but to indulge in
abuse — and abuse in a tariff fight is more dramatic than
convincing.

It has seemed to be the sense of the Association that next
year's annual meeting and dinner should also be held in Wash-
ington. American wool manufacturers are not only willing but
desirous to go there and to state their case right where it will
have the most interested and intelligent hearing. That is more
than can be said for the influences in this country and abroad
that would disrupt Schedule K and destroy the protection of one
of the greatest and most indispensable of our national industries.

THE YEAR IN BRADFORD.

The interesting review of the wool industry of Bradford, as
presented by the Bradford " Observer," comes to hand at a time
which makes it impossible to quote from it until the March
number of the Bulletin. It always contains so complete a pres-
entation of the facts concerning the year's business of that great
center and is of so great historical value that it has been our
custom to make copious extracts from it for presentation where
it will be easily available for the use of American manufacturers.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 151

The Review this year is of unusual interest and our quotations
correspondingly large.

Contrary to our own experience, Bradford has enjoyed a most
prosperous year. Its machinery has been employed to its full
capacity, especially in the yarn manufacture. Its exports have
been greater than ever before, and generally at remunerative
prices. Its consumption of wool was the largest in its history,
and while its claim to the title of Worstedopolis is by no means
lessened, its energetic, alert, and skilfvil manufacturers in recent
years have added to their worsted and mohair manufactures the
production of tweeds, high grade cotton fabrics and silk goods,
thus diversifying their productions and adding greatly to the
importance of their metropolis as a manufacturing center.

The Review says :

Every year finds us leaving further behind the old meaning of
"the Bradford trade." It used to cover bright goods (mohair,
alpaca, and luster), moreens, cross-dyed cashmeres, a few repps,
cords and damasks and linings. For the most part it was a
black trade, but it was essentially a " stuff " trade. Now it is
well-nigh impossible to say what does not belong to the Bradford
trade. In stuffs Bradford has emulated Roubaix and beaten it
off its own ground, it has attached a large slice of what at one
time was regarded as within the sole province of Huddersfield,
it is producing "tweeds" in competition with the Border towns
of Scotland, and even the low qualities produced in Colne Valley,
while an entirely new industry — the production of the most
elaborate and often expensive fabrics in cotton, silk, and artificial
silk — has sprung up, and in a few years has attained to enor-
mous importance. It is no exaggeration to say that as regards
our shipping trade, at least 50 per cent of it is done in cottons.

Of the Bradford trade, then, as a whole, in the newer and wider
acceptation of the terra, it can be said that it never enjoyed a better
year. For some branches there have been difficulties and some
have had better profit margins in other years. But never have
the combs put through so much wool, never has it been known
that there was not an idle spindle the year through, never have
our looms turned off a greater value of manufactured goods of
one sort or another, and never before have our shipping merchants
handled quite so much trade — though a few of them did better
perhaps in 1907. That was the boom year in which all records
were broken.

The following table reveals that wool in one form or another is
responsible for at least a hundred millions sterling of our oversea
trade in the course of a year, or something more than 10 per
cent of the whole.

152 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Imports of Wool and Wool Textiles.
Eleven months ended November 30.

1910.

1»07.

Wool

Yarns, tops, etc

£34,217,000
2,574,000
6,303,000

£33,070,000
2,498 000

Fabrics

7,536,000

£43,094,000

£43,104,000

Exports of Wool and Wool Textiles.
Eleven months ended November 30.

Wool

Yarns, tops, etc
Fabrics ,

1910.

£16,904,000
11,441,000
23,930,000

£52,275,000

i9or.

£15,473,000
11,192,000
21,423,000

£48,088,000

From which it will be seen that while the import of manufac-
tured fabrics of wool has declined nearly a million and a quarter,
the export has increased by more than two and a half millions in
value as compared with 1907.

Very few of our oversea markets have been depressed. Even
the United States, about which we have heard the most
melancholy reports, has taken a fair average quantity of our
manufactures, though the export of raw wool has shrunk to some-
thing less than half what it was in 1909. The export yarn trade
has grown prodigiously — it is more than a million and a half
better than it was in the previous year, which was a good one for
spinners. Indeed, this year may be described as emphatically
the spinners' year. No other section .of the trade has done quite
so well as the spinner, and the year closes, too, with spinners'
order-books full up for some months yet. All through the year
they have been behindhand and pressed for deliveries, and it has
JDCen the universal experience. Botany spinners in the coat-
ing trade, spinners of hosiery yarns, those in the export trade,
mohair spinners — all alike have had more work than they could
turn out with every possible spindle running. And although
reports from Germany, our best foreign customer, and Russia, as
well as from some of our own makers of dress goods, are not
quite so optimistic as they were, there is no slackening yet
noticeable in the demand.

One generally observed characteristic of this year, as of several

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 153

years past, is the stead}' upward movement in the matter of
quality. It is pointed out in our article on the yarn trade that
although the actual weight turned out for export has been
exceeded, the value of the export is unprecedented. This is not
simply a question of price ; it is mainly a question of value —
finer spinning. Still more is this noticeable in regard to manu-
factured goods. The amount of work put into the designing,
production, and finishing of fabrics is greater than ever. The
public taste all the world over is being rapidly educated, and it
demands more perfect goods. This may give more trouble, may
even militate against profits — though this ought not to be so —
but it does make our position in the competition of the world all
the more secure. The unqualified success of the Bradford show
at the Brussels Exhibition this year has given us a lift the value
of which we shall feel for some time to come, and it is to be
hoped that the advantage gained will be followed up at Turin
next year.

WOOL.

If the measure of good trade be the size of the profits made
out of it, then the year 1910 has not been altogether satisfactory
to those engaged in tlie buying and selling of wool. In this
respect the trader in the home-grown article has probably done
better than the importer and topmaker. But if volume of trade
and value of turnover be tlie test of good trade, then we must
indeed have had a bumper year, for never before have we
handled so much wool.

The difficulties of the dealer in colonial and foreign grown wool
have arisen from circumstances which he is reluctantly obliged
to confess are beyond his control. Last season's (1909-10)
Australasian abounding crop, which should have pulled prices
down, didn't, because it was offset by the tremendous shrinkage
in the South American production. Again, the collapse of
American support this year in Australia and in this market has
failed to '' work the trick," because both England and Germany
have been so busy that they have proved quite able so far to take
care of what will no doubt turn out to be the biggest clip of wool
the world has yet produced, at prices which are considered very
high. That it is time prices came down is a curiously commonly
accepted article of belief. It is not ten years since we had 60's
tops below 19d., and in the last ten years of last century the
average was seldom above 20d., and the production is increasing.
That is the argument for lower prices. But it leaves out of sight
several important factors, the chief of which is, put briefly, that
wool production over a period of fifteen years past has only
increased about 12^ per cent, while the requirements — due
partly to increased" population, but still more to the develop-
ments in the purchasing power of the unit all the world over —
have been growing faster than production.

154 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

In the colonial wool market the year opened with a most
optimistic feeling. America was still buying heavily and all our
own trade centers, the Heavy Woolen District, the Colne Valley,
Scotland, Leicester, the West of England, as well as Bradford,
were in good shape and bought with confidence and even eager-
ness. And though there have been quiet weeks and some fluctua-
tions in prices, the consumption in all branches of our industry has
been maintained throughout the year. Indeed we have taken, and
presumably absorbed, a good deal more raw material than we did
in 1909, prosperous year though it was. Merinos all through
the year have ruled remarkably steady.

Crossbreds have felt the full force of the slump in American
demand. At the March sales in London greasy medium and
coarse wools in light condition dropped quite 10 per cent, and in
their fall dragged other things with them to some extent. They
steadied at the May series, but relapsed in the July series, when
the total of American purchases was only three hundred bales,
and the rather large total of 33,000 bales was carried over.

The resale in London of wools bought for America and stopped
in transit, and even of several thousand bales reshipped from
Boston to London, was another factor which did not help the
market for medium to fine crossbreds, though possibly some top-
makers and spinners were thereby assisted to some very reason-
able purchases. Another feature of the London Sales this year
has been the excellent selection of Punta Arenas and Falkland
Islands wools, which have sold remarkably well. Swan Rivers,
among Australians, have also been prominent. East Indian and
foreign wools have sold well at Liverpool, the blanket and rug
makers having been busy all the year.

Price of 60's Super Tops during 1910.

January . .
February .

March

April

May

June

July

August . . .
September
October. . .
November
December.

Ist Week.

2/2i

2/3

2/3i

2/4

2/H

2/5

2/4i

2/5

2/4d

2/3

2d Week.

2/3

2/3i

2/5

2/5i

2/5

2/4i

2/5

2/4i

2/4

2/2i

3d Week.

2/3
2/3i
2/4
2/6
2/5i
2/5
2/44
Holiday.
2/5
2/4i
2/3i
2/2i

4th Week.

2/3

2/3i

2/4

2/5i

2/45

2/4i

2/5

2/4i

2/3i

EDITORIAL AND INDCTSTKIAL MISCELLANY. 155

THE ENGLISH TRADE.

For the English wool merchant and topmaker the year on the
whole has been a good one. It has not been so pi-ofitable for
everybody perhaps as 1909, but it has been possible to get a
working profit on most business, and there have been no serious
losses, while the wool grower has had a good price for his wool.
In buying the clip some mistakes were made in speculating upon
an American demand which never came, and some pick Shrop-
shire hogs were taken at a price which was a thick penny too
dear for this market. But the balk of the clip was reasonably
bought. America had ceased buying in London and in Bradford
two months before clip day, and they had no buying orders out
for the country fairs. When, therefore, the grower and the
merchant and spinner came to a deal it was not difficult to
establisli a basis that was satisfactory to both sides.

American buying of English, Scotch, and Irish wools had been
very heavy throughout 1909, and it continued with but slight
abatement for the first two or three months of the present year.
Hence with the very large home consumption in all branches of
the trade, stocks at the beginning of the year had been reduced
to a low point, and staplers were able to clear out at very good
prices indeed, so that the American collapse came at a most
opportune moment.

Throughout the season business has seemed to run on the fine-
haired descriptions, and it appeared at one time as though strong
wools would have a bad time of it. To begin with it has not
been so good a clip in Lincolnshire as was the last, and although
at the beginning of the season some wool was bought at what
looked a cheap price, the demand in Bradford was not good.
Mohair of medium quality has been in heavy supply, and at such
a low price that it competed on unequal terms with lusters, and
the demand went off, and the super-luster yarn trade has been
very quiet throughout tlie year. So depressed was the market
that wethers which had cost 8fd. were actually offered at 7fd.,
though this was an exceptional case. Anyhow, when the
announcement of the fixing of tlie date of the King's Coronation
was made the market took a sudden upward turn. The demand
for wethers for bunting yarns became insistent, and very soon
prices got back on to a paying level. Indeed for some time past
wethers have been worth practically as much as hogs, and are
now quite scarce, while the hogs have moved off quite slowly.
Scotch wools, and especially blackfaced, have had a very good
sale, notwithstanding that America has been out of the market
altogether. So dear have Scotch wools been that one outlet
which has absorbed a considerable quantity of strong-haired
scoured wool has been closed — we refer to the Spanish trade.
When these wools can be sold at a shilling scoured, they are

156 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

exported in small bags of about 100 pounds each to Spain, and the
wool, which will not mat, is made by the peasants into mattresses
for the navy.

THE WOOL BUYERS ASSOCIATION.

During the year the British Wool Buyers' Association has
materially strengthened its organization. There is ample scope
for the work the association is endeavoring to accomplish.
Unfortunately there are many farmers who, through ignorance
or carelessness, are most indifferent about the way in which their
wool is got up for sale. Hundreds of thousands of bales of wool
come from Australia and New Zealand every year, a much larger
quantity than we grow at home, and it is all properly skirted and
classed. Yet English wools are sent to market anyhow. Some-
times a hog fleece when opened out will be found to have half a
cot inside it. Farmers after sheep-washing will turn their sheep
into a strawyard with cattle and pigs about, instead of into a
clean pasture, with the result that the good done by the washing
is undone. At one time there used to be recognized " winders "
who knew their work and did it well, but that type of man is
dying out. Some of the best farmers will let the shearing by
contract at so much per hundred or score to clip and wind. If
there is but one winder to, say, six clippers, he no doubt has
plenty to do to keep up with them. He may even think that he
is doing the farmer a good turn by winding in all the dags and
skirtings. One large firm in Bradford this season got 400 pounds
of daggings out of four sheets of halfbred hogs — a matter of £5
a sheet. But though this was a flagrant case it stands as an
example of quite common practice — and it is a practice which in
the old days the law put down with a heavy hand. The Wool
Buyers' Association is doing well to focus attention upon these
matters and in order that their importance may be apprehended
by the wool growers it is, we believe, in contemplation to invite a
number of them to Bradford, that they may have practical
demonstration of the difficulties which, no doubt unwittingly,
they are making for the trade. Another matter which needs to
be brought to their notice is the need of greater attention being
paid to breed. Yorkshire Wold wool, the finest luster that can
be grown, is not what it was — it has lost much of its character
and something of its value. And it is solely attributable to the
practice of using a Lincoln instead of a pure bred Leicester tup
or even a Wensleydale.

MOHAIR.

If there was " very little to be said about the mohair trade of
1909," there is no possibility of saying much about it in 1910.
Apparently, measured in number of bales only, we have had a

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 167

record importation — 97,993 bales against the 96,236 of last
year. But this total figure is most misleading, for the Cape
imports of 36,981 bales to December 1 are very nearly 3,000
bales down, and the increase of nearly 4,000 bales from Turkey
do not by any means compensate. It is clear, however, and
satisfactory also, that there has been no real set-back anywhere.
In Turkey, the more settled conditions are leading to an expan-
sion of the mohair-growing industry and so long as the price
keeps anywhere near its present level, goat breeding should be
profitable. It does seem, however, as if the Cape production
needed to be checked — or we should rather say improved in
quality. A difference of 3^d. and occasionally even 4d. between
the price of the two articles at a given time is eloquent on this
point. And it is a difference which is likely to widen, to the
detriment of the South African grower as well as our own indus-
try, unless a determined movement is started at the Cape to
improve the quality of the mohair flocks and the methods of
clipping, classing, grading, and shipping the hair. It is time that
some new blood were introduced into South Africa, and under
the altered conditions in Turkey this may be not impossible of
attainment. . . . More than ever is the call for brilliance,
fineness, and length, and it is now as certain as such things
can be that mohair combining these qualities will find a con-
stant market at good prices.

Still, though there has been no mohair boom, and prices are
moderate for all but the very finest Turkey and kids, the con-
sumption has been large. Spinners have been kept very busy
all the year, and the marvel is where it all goes to. And the
outlook is good, for there is no lack of particulars and no empty
order-books. Mohair is finding outlets in many channels. There
is a huge business done in rather coarse and strong Sicilians, and
the manufacture of mohair coatings has been developed by the
few firms who have taken it up into a very large trade, while
mohair linings also take a lot of matei-ial.

Turkey mohair imports 61,102

Cape mohair imports 36,891 bales.

Alpaca imports (fleece 15,654, inf. 11,749). 27,403 bales.

158 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANTIFACTURERS.

Prices of Mohair and Alpaca.

1910.

January . .
February .
March . . .

April

May

June

July

August. . .
September
October . .
November
December

Turkey
Average.

Cape Firsts.

Alpaca Fleece.

16 — 16i

14 —141

174—18

16 -16i

13 — 14i

174-18

16 -16i

13^-14i

174-184

16 — 16i

13i— Hi

18 —19

121— 14i

18i— 19

16i

13i— 15i

18 —19

16i— 161

13i— 15

18 —19

14 — 15|

18 —181

13d-16

18 —181

16i

131—164

171— 18i

16i

12|-15i

173 — 184

16i

13 — 15i

173

For alpaca there has been a steady demand all the year with
something more than an average consumption, but with few and
unimportant fluctuations in prices of raw material. The general
tendency of prices may indeed be described as upward ....
Manufacturers have been busy both in mohairs and alpacas, and
the export of mohair and alpaca yarns to Germany and Russia
has been exceedingly heavy.

YARNS.

We expected good things from the year 1910, but it has
brought us more, it has brought us great things. Why, there
never was such a year in the annals of the Bradford yarn trade !
Even 1895, hailed at the time as the annus mirabilis of the
nineteenth century, and that other giant, 1899, must stand back
before glorious 1910. We doubt whether even the home trade
has ever been better in any one year, though there are no figures
available to prove this. For the export trade, however, we have
the Board of Trade returns, and they have the word '< Records "
writ large all over them. We have never sent out so much
worsted yarn in the eleven months ended November 30th of any
year — we shall always mean eleven months' periods in the fol-
lowing— we have never, taking all yarns together, exported
such a grand total, and we have never but once, in 1907 to wit,
seen a bigger export figure for alpaca and mohair yarns. Our
this year's exports of worsted yarns to Germany have been
surpassed by those of 1899 and 1903, but in weight only, not in
value, and as for Russia, the figures both for worsted" and for
mohair yarns stand out as the highest we have ever had for that
country.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

169

Yarn Expokts.

Eleven Months ended November 30.

Woolen, "Worsted,
and Mohair Tarns.

Quantities.

Value.

lOOO.

1910.

lOOO.

1910.

"Woolen Yarn

Lb.
2,221,100

Lb.

3,666,300

£
212,951

£
345,311

"Worsted Yarn :

2,750,900
1,419,900
1,031,300
2,173,000
32,847,600
1,510,000
1,327,700
1,809,400
89,800
5,639,700

8,978,900
1,844,500
1,008,700
1,949,100
36,104.800
1,140.500
1,487,900
1,805,300
58,200
9,175,300

58,553,200

292,232

131,553

88.029

192,620

2,6S7,041

130,379

111.019

157,912

9,209

521,348

4,301,342

456,753

198,195

97,573

197.548

Germany

3,318,741

Holland

110,277

Belgium

137,832

177,791

United States

Other Countries . . .

7,053
931,055

Total

50,599,300

5,632,818

Yarn, Alpaca, and
Mohair:
Russia

1,252,800
9,952,200
399,900
1,741,100
1,068,300

14,414,300

1,579,900

11,011,000

415,600

1,552,000

1,411,000

171,413

1,189,528

51,655

208.828

127,994

1,749,418

225,334

Germany

1,381,247

Belgium

53,707

187,289

Other Countries . . .

160,683

Total

15,969,500

2,008,260

Yarn, Hair, or "Wool
(unenumerated) .

6,492,900

8,149,000

223,656

277,755

Our exports of worsted yarns exceeded those of last year by 8
million pounds ; Germany alone accounted for 3J million pounds
and Russia for IJ million. Of mohair and alpaca yarns we
exported 1^ million pounds more than last year, Germany account-
ing for one million and Russia for ^ million. The wonderful recov-
ery of Russia since the black year of 1904 speaks volumes for the
enormous recuperative power of that country. Austria, which is
not classed separately by the Board of Trade, must be responsible
for a large part of the increase returned under " Other Countries,"
the conditions in that Empire and in the Balkan States generally
having become more settled, and the Turkish boycott of Austrian
goods having gradually died away. France, alas, is not the large
customer she used to be, at least not for worsted yarns. Her

160 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

takings of such yarns have become considerably less since 1895,
in which year she took pretty nearly twice as much as in 1910.
If her mohair imports show a decrease of 190,000 pounds coni pared
with 1909, this is partly attributable to the increasing preference
given to artiticial silk in the manufacture of braids and trim-
mings.

The exportation of tops from Bradford grows perceptibly from
year to year, and has now reached the respectable figure of 39^ mil-
lion pounds. Perhaps this is not altogether a matter for rejoicing,
as it shows that other countries are endeavoring more and more
to spin their own yarns. But then we could not prevent that
even if we would, and in a year when more yarn orders have
been coming our way than we could cope with we should not
grumble. For the same reason we need not be alarmed at the
growth in the imports of woolen and worsted yarns, the weight
of which amounted, in round figures, to 25.4 million pounds in
1910, as against 22 million in 1909.

The home trade, and for that matter probably the export trade
as well, has received a special fillip by the establishment in Japan
of new protective duties on piece goods which are to come into
force on July 1, 1911, and in consequence of which great
activity now prevails in the endeavor to turn out goods for the
Land of the Rising Sun to reach there before that date.

The blessings of peace have never been more strikingly
evidenced than by these happy results. For it is to the absence
of wars or other wides])read disturbances of a similarly serious
nature, we believe, that we owe our success. True, there have
been troubles in the labor world, but their effects have been
local rather than universal, and we have heard far more of
scarcity of hands than of unemployment.

CONTRACTS AND DELIVERIES.

The glaring instances of laxity in the treatment of contracts
which were brought before the Chamber of Commerce by stuff
and yarn merchants in September have not been the rule, but
are not so isolated either as some of the members seemed to
think. It was the contract question over again, only reversed,
not the merchant or the manufacturer, but the spinner being the
culprit this time. And it is a case of six of one and half a dozen
of the other.

There is in every year, and probably in every trade, a certain
sprinkling of complaints about faulty or otherwise not quite
satisfactory deliveries. If — contrary to the experience that in
busy periods users are less inclined to be critical — this year has
not been without its sprinkling, the explanation will be found,
we think, in the difficulties of the labor supply already referred
to, the training up of new hands thereby necessitated, the

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 161

hurried production and the newness of rovings and yarns, which
is never to the advantage of the latter. We all know that
there is no such thing as perfection. But it is astonishing how
near perfection we can get by intelligent methods and constant
attention as observed in well-conducted mills.

Through some of these complaints merchants have often
been brought into contact with Continental conditioning-houses,
and it has once more been felt that a uniform method of testing
adopted by all conditioning-houses, and a generally acknowledged
standard of permissible margins of deviation would be a bless-
ing indeed. The experiments which are being conducted by our
painstaking and able conditioning-house manager witli a view to
ascertaining the correct " standards of condition '' for the various
materials employed in our trade should prove of valuable assist-
ance.

GERMAN CUSTOMS DIFFICULTIES.

The merchant's troubles did not end here. Jn July last he
was, to his surprise, informed by German forwarding agents
that, as from the first of that month, new regulations for the
examination of worsted yarns had been issued to the custom-
houses by the German authorities. This piece of news was soon
followed by notifications, according to which first this yarn and
then another had been challenged by the custom-house as not
belonging to the category they had been scheduled under up to
now, but as being liable to a higher duty. The surtax claimed
amounted to about ^d. or a trifle more per pound. This was
no joking matter, either for the merchant who had sold, as in a
good many cases, in German currency inclusive of duty, or for
the customer who had bought on f. o. b. terms. Protests were
numerous, but unavailing, appeals to the authorities for reexami-
nation generally resulted in the confirmation of the first ver-
dict, and shippers could consider themselves lucky if they
escaped being fined into the bargain for false declaration of
contents. The matter was discussed by the Chambers of Com-
merce of Bradford, Halifax, and Keighley, and a thorough inves-
tigation of the new method instituted. The report on its result
was laid before the Bradford Chamber on October 27th, and its
most salient points are these : The new method appears unfair,
inasmuch as a length of 2.20 meters only is insufficient to base
the counts of a yarn or the average length of fibers upon,
especially as, according to the regulations in question, this length
of 2.20 meters has to be cut no less than six times, and as further
one test only is to determine what, to be just, an average of several
tests should determine. A system which entails the cutting of
any fibers cannot give the correct length of fibers. Besides, the
method is too complicated and too delicate for custom-house
officials to undertake unless specially trained.

162 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Prices of Yarns.
Worsteds.

•a

ffi

■J "a

^•a

:3 m

^ "■

!- C

£ H

ij «>

Q IB

Q s

O 3

3 fc.

S k.

OD «

OQ «

CO P<

■M

CO
CO

5. d.

s. cZ.

s. d.

S. <Z.

s. d.

1 7i

2 0

8 6

8 H

7 9

1 8

2 0|
2 1
2 04
2 1

8 9

8 6

7 9

1 8
1 7|

8 9
8 6

8 6
8 3

7 9

May

1 Si
1 8i

8 6

8 3

7 9

June

2 1

8 6

8 3

7 9

July

1 8^
1 9

2 1

8 6

8 4i
8 9

7 9

2 U

9 0

8 0

September

1 9i
1 H

2 2
2 2

9 0
9 0

8 9
8 9

8 3

October ...

8 3

November

1 9

2 U

9 0

8 9

8 0

1 9

2 U

9 0

8 9

8 0

Worsteds — (Continued).

•6

t^ .

>, •

t>-Ci

« 1

^£

-1

« o

O 2

JO p.

CD ^^

° 2

<o p,

«5

00 p,

O 1.

s. d.

s. <^.

Jan

7 3

2 11

3 1

July ...

7 104

3 2

3 4

Feb

7 H

2 11

3 1

August. .

8 14

3 2

3 4

March . . .

7 U

3 0

3 2

Sept. . . .

8 3

3 2

3 4

April

7 6

3 1

3 3

Oct. ....

8 3

3 1

3 3

May

7 9

3 2

3 4

Nov. . . .

7 104

3 1

3 3

June

7 lOi

3 2

3 4

Dec

7 9

3 0

3 2

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

163

Mohairs and Alpacas.

January . .
February .
March . . . .

April

May

June

July

August . . .
September.
October . . .
November
December

b a

m p.

^"2
o 9

■J 3

2 i"

■a

i; s

O I.

as,

o a

J° u

OO Q>

'NQ'

s. d.

s. <Z.

s. d.

2 9

2 4

3 5

12 0

2 9

2 4

3 5i

12 0

2 9

2 4

3 5i

12 0

2 9

2 4

3 5^

12 0

2 9

2 4

3 5^

12 0

2 9i

2 4

3 5^

12 3

2 9^

2 4

3 5i

12 3

2 9i

2 5

3 5.^

12 3

2 9^

2 5

3 6

12 4 4

2 94

2 5

3 6

12 4i

2 9^

2 4^

3 6

12 6

2 9i

2 4i

3 6

12 6

0.3

10
10
10
10
10

10 6
10 6

Cottons.

January . .
February .
March . . .
April . . . .

May

June

July

August . . .
September
October . .
November
December

Warp.

13i

13|

13J

13i

134

13i

13g

60^

191

20i

211

22^

21i

20i

191

19^

19*

p. V

Sc q

22|

23i
2/01
2/U
2/li
2/0

22^

2-4

22,L

3/2i

3/3

3/2i

3/1

3/0

3/Oi

P.U
02 g

OD-C

2/8i

2/94

2/9

2/7

2/64

2/7

2/3

2/6

Weft.

12i

111

12i

121

124

174

18i

194

18i

171

16i

164

161

18i

183

204

194

184

17i
17i
174
174
174

PIECES.

The piece trade of 1910 gives much cause for satisfaction and
little for complaint. On the whole it has been quite a good year,

164 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

and in the shipping trade a boom year surpassing even 1907.
Both manufacturers and merchants have made money, though
profits have not perhaps been on a scale commensurate with the
turnover. Prices started on a high level, and went still higher,
and it is well known that in a rising market those who stand
farthest removed from the raw material always have the worst
time. It is the old story of the inelasticity of retail prices. The
topmaker and the spinner may get their full margin, but the
manufacturer and the merchant, who have to accommodate them-
selves to the fixed prices customary in the drapery trade, have
often to be content with a part only of the advances which they
themselves had to pay. As we have pointed out before, things
have a way of righting themselves in the end by a general lower-
ing of quality, and the ultimate consumer who takes the draper's
one-and-elevenpenny cloth always to represent the same value
imagines a vain thing. Ifor the first three months of the year
the home trade was in an exceedingly healthy state. The effect
upon it of the death of King Edward in May was much exag-
gerated at the time, but it was undoubtedly substantial, more or
less spoiling the season for colored goods without bringing
adequate compensation in the black department. Serious labor
troubles in various parts of the country also had an injurious
influence upon the home trade in the latter half of the year, and
a wet autumn completed the mischief.

Of late years the Bradford trade has branched out in so many
directions, and the variety of fabrics now made is so great, that
it becomes increasingly difficult to give anything like an adequate
catalogue of styles. A leading feature of the year has been the
demand for botany suitings — fabrics more or less in men's styles,
but suitable for tailor-made dresses. The indispensable requisite
in a fabric of this kind is that it shall stand pressing with the
tailor's iron, and hence the quality must be good. There is every
prospect of this very serviceable style having another good run
next season. All-wool cheviot suitings have also done well, and
in the spring there was a big sale for fine navy suitings, the
demand for which was fostered by the vogue of the " hobble "
skirt. Like its predecessor, the Directoire costume, the " hobble "
skirt was too extreme a fashion to last, but it dealt still another
blow at the moreen skirting trade, which, badly hit before, has
been quite insignificant this year.

It has been a good year for tweeds, especially during the latter
part. The Harris and Donegal style has been most in evidence —
the rougher the better. Although the tweed trade is not usually
reckoned as part of the Bradford trade, not a few manufacturers
have turned their attention to the better class fabrics, and have
been well rewarded. The rough tweeds have been extensively
imitated in Batley and Dewsbury. Milled amazons, habit cloths,
and Venetians have done badly, and voiles also have been out of

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 165

fashion. On the other hand there has been a good plain trade in
little armure effects, poplins, etc. It may be claimed that the
wool poplin has practically beaten the French tricot — a similar
cloth, so named for its knitted appearance — out of the field.
Some exquisite fabrics have been made in mixtures of wool and
silk, including plain and fancy satins with spun silk warp and
Botany weft and imitation Shantungs. All-silk goods, too, are
made in Bradford to a much greater extent than most people are
aware of, and the trade is a growing one. The manufacture of
high-class cotton goods, both with and without the admixture of
artificial silk, has made tremendous strides, and now occupies an
important and to all appearances a permanent place in the Brad-
ford trade. Poplins, voiles, and Shantungs have been the leading
lines in this department. There is, however, a great range of
designs and styles, and the beautiful fabrics produced have found
a ready outlet both in the home and export markets. Cotton
poplins have done especially well in South America, and they
have also sold largely in China.

The bright goods trade has been better than last year, although
1910 cannot be called a moliair year. Sicilians have accounted
for the bulk of the trade, and there has been a marked increase
in the output of mohair suitings for tropical and sub-tropical
climates. White warp luster figures finished with the "therma-
line" finish of the Bradford Dyers' Association have likewise
done well, principally in the South American trade. Single warp
mohairs with the "permo" finish have made notable progress,
and promise to keep mohair permanently in fashion as a dress
material.

Gaberdine makers have been extraordinarily busy throughout
the year and gaberdine cloth may now be counted as a Bradford
staple — an article for which there is likely to be a constant and
steady demand. The general serviceableness of the gaberdine
and its superior hygienic properties as compared with rubbered
proofings have obtained for it a well-merited popularity, but there
is some danger of its reputation suffering injury from the inferior
makes now being put on the market. The plain twill weave
which was the characteristic of the original gaberdine is now
varied by covert effects.

Judged by output the lining trade has been remarkably good,
but profits have l)een sadly reduced by the ridiculously high
prices which have had to be paid for cotton yarns. People who
had the courage to buy early in the year will have done reason-
ably well, no doubt ; for others it has been a case of seeing a big
business done with very little return for it. In the autumn the
home lining trade was affected by the same influences that pro-
duced the falling off in the dress trade, and while manufacturers
had previously been more or less constantly in arrears with
deliveries it is probable that at the present moment quite a third
of the looms employed in the lining trade are idle. As was the

166 NATIONAL, ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

case last year, the trade in Botany and luster linings has been
largely done in colors. It will be remembered that when cotton
Italians were first introduced it was feared that they would to
a large extent oust the Botany Italians which they imitated.
Fortunately that fear has proved to be groundless. Although the
finishing of cotton linings was never so good as it is at present,
they are not taking the places of Botanies and cross-dyes, but
rather meeting a new need which is largely the result of the
remarkable development of the making-up trade.

Large quantities of luster linings bought early in the year for
the United States were "dumped" in the autumn in Canada,
greatly to the detriment of what may be called the legitimate
trade, but in spite of this Canada has been a splendid market,
and so, also, has Japan. There has been a good trade with the
Levant, and a very promising market is now being opened up in
Persia.

As regards the outlook for the future it must not be forgotten
that during the depression of three years ago stocks all the
world over were allowed to run very low. During the past two
years, therefore, the trade has been doing something more than
meet the current demand — it has been filling up an empty reser-
voir. That process is about completed, for while the world's
stocks are by no means heavy, they are by this time fairly
substantial, and for the future the trade will depend on the
current demand alone. At the same time there is nowhere any
sign that this is diminishing, and the two least satisfactory
markets, namely, the United States and China, must soon begin
to show an improvement. A speedy improvement in the home
trade is practically certain, and with the prospect of a good
home trade on the top of the present shipping trade Bradford
should be able to face 1911 with equanimity.

EDITORIAL AJSTD INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

167

Woolen and Worsted Exports.
Twelve Months ended with November — in £1,000^ s.

Sweden

Norway

Denmark

Germany

Netherlands . .

Belgium

France

Portugal

Spain

Italy

Greece

Turkey

Egypt

China

Japan

United States .

Mexico

Peru

Chili

Brazil

Uruguay. ,

Argentina ....
South Africa . .
East Indies . . .

Australia

New Zealand. .

Canada

Other countries

Totals ...

Woolene

1907. 1909. lOlO

£66

108

1,064

290

385

991

233

335

122

481

605

403

105

257

182

608

142

490

777

185

1,017

941

£10,282

£41

109

1,186

333

376

1,078

276

383

279

348

432

291

167

750

153

355

802

171

908

1,072

£10,049

£47

103

105

378

463

1,136

330

150

599

100

345

518

530

369

210

107

870

191

578

976

212

1,007

1,289

£10,900

Worsteds.

1007. 1900.

£14

464

109

386

179

194

236

495

489

984

271

356

131

328

718

164

1,147

334

£7,438

£40

421

122

103

349

187

169

140

243

189

956

137

462

160

219

563

131

1,322

286

£6,453

1910.

£55

443

105

108

318

• 196

286

114

359

351

1,112

189

631

225

382

640

137

1,581

356

£7,831

Woolens. Worsteds.

1908 £9,648 £5,944

1906 9,790 6.864

1905 9,130 6,674

1904 7,257 6,480

1903 5,753 6,430

1902 5.566 6,239

1901 5,247 5,902

1900 5,868 6,454

1899 5,269 6,253

168 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Imports of Wool Fabrics.
For Twelve Months ended with November — in 1,000 Yards and £1,000^ s.

1898...
1899...
1900. . .
1901...
1902...
1903...
1904...
1905...
190f>...
1907...
1908...
1909...
1910...

Cloths.
Yards.

5,984
5,253
4,134
4,295
5,100
4,875
4,461
4,066
3,948
3,820
2,863
2,736
2,598

Stuffs.
Yards.

Carpets.

73,125

£406

71,823

529

62,569

564

69,289

474

71,681

483

69,897

565

76,879

478

89,636

532

91,282

578

75,383

598

68,981

459

69,297

563

61,668

623

Hosiery.

£512
403
388
400
453
554

Unenumer-

Value all

ated.

Fabrics.

£3,483

£9,930

3,641

9,983

5,708

9,107

3,741

9,125

4,340

10,683

2,728

9,113

2,361

9,048

1,540

9,819

1,177

9,343

1,019

8,152

814

7,221

524

7,246

442

6,869

Note. — The value of cloths imported in the twelve months ended with November this
year has been £40-1,000, against £406,000 last year; and of the stuffs this year £4,846,000,
against £5,300,000 last year. We have further to remember that of the total of imported
wool manufactures, somewhat over £1,000,000 worth is reexported each year.

ON THE WOOL TRACK.

THE RED COUNTRY, ITS PEOPLE AND ITS SHEEP — VIVID
DESCRIPTIONS OF A GREAT AUSTRALIAN INDUSTRY.

It is not pastoral Australia, nor all of the wool growing region
of Australia, which is dealt with in the vivid, interesting book,
" On the Wool Track," by C. E. W. Bean and published in New
York by the John Lane Company. But some day, with the growth
of population and the spread of urban and rural boundaries, these
parched and wind-swept tracks of the "outside country " will form
the last retreat of the Australian sheep husbandry. And so these
back stations which now sustain less than one-half of the wool
growing of Australia assume importance as the future center of
wool growing, when the inevitable pressure of a growing popu-
lation forces the flocks farther and farther inland.

Already little lonely homesteads dot the hills and riverflats,
and there live the men and women who, despite drought and flood,
are raising their flocks and doing their brave part toward the
making of Australia. The writer of this book has tried to show
what the life of these men and women on these back stations
really is. " The wool industry turns out wool and meat and tal-

EDITOKIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 169

low and glue and cold cream, and many other things. But the
most important things it turns out are men." And so this book
deals with the men encountered along the wool track from the
paddock to the loom.

Only the hardiest types of men are found in that inhospitable
country — the red country it is called. "If an Englishman saw
the country in some years he would probably say it was the old
Sahara Desert. Some of the explorers did say so. And then
other explorers went there in other years and said they had found
a beautiful pastoral country with grass waist-high. And they
were both right. That country does turn into a Sahara in drought
time, except where there happens to be scrub upon it. In some
years the center of it does actually become a desert — a red, sandy
des^^t, with the surface blown off it and piled in sandhills by
any wind that comes along. And then down comes the rain in
the proper part of the month, and the particular grass or herb
•or even tree, which this extraordinary Australian nature has
marked up on lier calendar against that particular day or two,
■comes up and turns the land into a wheattield. It is as though
England and the Sahara Desert got mixed, and one was always
Pushing up for the time and effacing the other."

Such is the red country and throughout it but one change
could be noted since the first explorers found it. It is the same
wide, wild, pitiless region that it was when they first saw it, only
with one exception — the sheep have come. Through toil and
thirst and death men have made of this wilderness a country in
any part of which a sheep can live. " That is all. Men can't
live there. It is when they think they can that they come to
grief. They have made themselves homesteads — little redoubts
fifty or a hundred miles apart, where they can defend themselves
securely enough when they get there. But over the wide spaces
in between they have to stage from water to water, from tank to
tank, or well to well. And it was not for them the water was
dammed or these wells sunk. It was for the sheep. Except for
the sheep, and the sheep alone, the West would be, and is, to-day
as the untamed centuries had left it — as the first white man,
when he came over the red sandhill on the horizon to the edge of
the pine scrub, found it."

This is the country which they have found to be exceedingly
well suited to the growing of fine wool. " It is the land of those
astonishing grasses which spring up and then vanish for twenty

170 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

years, and then suddenly flush up again to the delight of the
oldest inhabitant. It is the land of the delicate scrub, which is
as puzzling as the grass and mostly as useful ; of the mulga, the
best of all for stock, and one of the prettiest ; of the applebush
or rosewood or bluebush, which when half dry is fairly good for
stock ; of the emu-bush, which is very good to eat, as the rabbits
have found; of the native willow, which is good to make yokes
of; of the gidgea, which is good for fencing, and which drops
beans which are good for sheep ; of the leopard-wood, which is
good feed and bad timber, and crops up again as often as it is
cut ; of the myall, which is good sheep feed ; of the white-wood,
which is fairly good ; and the belar, which is very little good ;
and the wild fuchsia, whose flowers, full of honey, the sheep at
any rate think to be good ; of the hopbush, which is good for
yeast, and the beefwood, which is good for timber ; and the dead-
finish, which may be good for whip handles ; and the budda,
which is good for nothing, except to keep the surface on the
ground — to stop the wind from blowing the skin of Australia
away, and leave her cheek-bones all shiny red and bare and
useless,"

This country, its sheep, and its men are pictured in this book
as they have not been before, by a man who looks deep into the
heart of the country and of the men who are making it, the men
who embody the genius of Australia, who can turn their hand to
any work, who can make wagons, drive engines, forge iron, make
the saddles they ride in, the whips they use, cobble their boots,
and turn soap-boxes into furniture. Not without reason does
the author call them the most capable men in Australia, the Aus-
tralian handy-men, the men who are producing so much of the
wealth of the country.

This district had three record years between 1885 and 1890.
On 6,000,000 acres in Cobar there were 1,500,000 sheep. Some
runs carried a sheep to three acres. But by 1895 the drought
was on the land, and for seven lean years the country was like a
desert. The sheep were held on the runs in the hope of rain
till they were too weak to travel. There was not a blade of
grass on the earth. A loose sand swept over parts of it, and
covered up even the fences. Every station was reduced to a
tithe of its stock. Several of the stations have never since carried
a sheep. The following table of figures gathered between Wil-

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

171

eannie and Broken Hill shows what the drought meant to the
sheepmen of this inland Australia :

Name op Station.

Kallara

Momba

Tongo

Culpaulin

Weinteriga

Tarella

Menamurtee

Nuntlierungie ,

Grass mere and Netallie

Gnalta

Murtee

Billilla

Teryawinya

Marra and Rosedale . .

Total Acres.

998 514
1,923,000

(now
1,594,402)
181,207
160,293
523,220
697,304
408,888
358,295 "1
322,327 /
481,536
343,602
379,600
917,337
372,926

stock carried

ia 1907.

Cattle.

Sheep.

1,196

81,581

353

74,016

15,192

202

15,870

624

49,500

860

27.512

421

35,091

582

39,684

9,150

317

23,635

270

16,456

46,108

613

40,101

Sheep
carried

hefore the
Drought

(roughly).

120,000
420,000

50,000

150,000

105,000

60,000

150,000

100,000
70,000
70,000

100,000
80,000

The copious rains of 1906 demonstrated that the country could
revive, for up again came the grasses, fresh and green and as
high as the tops of the fences. The sand had held the grass
seeds, and with the coming of the rain they burst into life again,
but the sheep could not return so speedily ; where they carried a
sheep to five acres or even three acres before, they carry only one
to fifteen acres now. The stamping out of the rabbit pest and a
system of irrigation will do much to help this country, and again
bring the sheep up to the record numbers of earlier years.

From the red country comes a wool that is in great demand at
the Sydney auctions. France takes a large part of it — 264,000
bales last year ; 245,000 for England ; 225,000 for Germany ;
91,000 for Belgium; 27,000 for the United States, and 8,000 for
Japan. There are shrewd observers in Sydney who expect to
see the last-named country rise to first place on the list. As late
as the Boer War, England bought 64 per cent of all the wool
from Sydney, and other countries only 36 per cent. Last year
England bought 28| per cent and other countries 71|- per cent.
Sydney counts upon American buyers to pick up the best of their
wool and to pay the best prices for it, but Japan is expected to

172 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

show the greatest relative increase in the amount purchased.
But back in the red country they care little who manufactures
the wool so long as they are allowed to raise it.

Thomas 0. Marvin.

BRITISH CARPET TRADE IN 1910.

The " Kidderminster Shuttle," in reviewing the British carpet
trade in 1910, said:

The year has witnessed a distinct revival in the British carpet
trade, and the development has not been confined to one or two
branches of the industry, for all grades have participated in the
upward movement. It has probably been more noticeable in the
finer qualities, and especially in Wiltons, Axminsters and the deep
pile seamless carpets, which indicate that the middle and upper
classes have been better off, and able to spend more money on
the decoration of their homes.

The fact that the cheaper qualities of Brussels and tapestries
have not proportionately done as well as the more elaborate and
expensive fabrics may be due to the trade troubles which have
been experienced in various parts of the country limiting the
income of the workers, and the reduced earning power of those
engaged in the cotton industry. Still, in the aggregate, the year
has been characterized by exceptional activity. It has been a
period of expansion all round. Employment has been more
general, machinery has been kept well going, and a good deal of
overtime has been found necessary in order to meet the demand
for quick deliveries.

The volume of trade has been large. On one day alone one of
the leading Kidderminster firms despatched 9^ tons of carpets up
to various parts of the British Isles, and during the same week
the despatches for oversea markets were almost as heavy. These
are unusual conditions in the carpet industry, and indicate the
activity which has prevailed.

While the home trade has been good the oversea business has
never been better. During the year nearly 9,000,000 yards of
carpets and rugs have been sent out by British makers to the
colonies and foreign countries, an increase of over 30 per cent on
the previous year, and the value of the goods has exceeded
£1,250,000 sterling. These figures establish a record for the car-
pet industry in exports. The satisfactory feature is that every
country to which carpets have been exported has shown an
increased trade, while the largest expansions have been with
Australia, Canada, and South America. South Africa is now

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 173

becoming a good market for carpets. At one time the taste of
the colonials in floor coverings was of a local character, and car-
pets had to be specially designed and woven for those markets.
But of late the colonial taste has become more consolidated and
British, and the designs and colorings which are in popular
demand in the home market are to a large extent those sought
after by the colonials.

Tapestry trade during the past year has been very variable.
For the first half of the year it did not share the general pros-
perity enjoyed by the other sections of the carpet trade. With
the arrival of September, however, a very much increased demand
was experienced, and this has continued till the close of the year.
The prospects for 1911 are distinctly good. The demand for
seamless carpets has penetrated to this branch of the car[)et
trade, and preparations to meet this are quietly taking placQ.
Nearly every firm has had to extend its finishing departments^
which, while suitable for narrow goods, did not permit of the
efiicient handling of the wide seamless carpets. One of the most
notable features of the year was an advance in prices in July.
This, while being small, had a steadying and stimulating effect on
the trade.

There is a strong desire expressed in some quarters for
establishing an essentially English school of design in carpet
production, and no doubt much has been done in that direction.
There has during the year been a distinct elevation in artistic
taste on the part of carpet consumers, and to meet this many
beautiful fabrics, especially in the expensive qualities, have been
produced. The demand for reproductions of high class Persians
and other Oriental effects has, however, been well maintained,
and soft subdued effects have been in good demand.

The trade during the year in art squares and similar carpets
has not had the buoyancy in it that has prevailed in the Axmin-
ster and other pile carpets, largely owing to the fact that the
prices of Axminster, etc., have been at a somewhat low point,
and this consequently has added to their popularity. Art
squares have been, compared with pile carpets, relatively dear,
and consequently the volume of trade has not kept pace with other
branches.

The outlook is regarded as distinctly bright and hopeful. The
general trade of the country, and, indeed, of the world, seems
good, and with a coronation year before them carpet producers
believe that the achievements of the closing year will not only be
equalled but excelled, so far as volume of trade is concerned.

The fly in the ointment has been the unremunerative char-
acter of the trade. Every one admits that the last reduction in
prices was a mistake, and yet there is not sufficient combination
and cohesion among manufacturers to enable them to revert to
the former price lists. All kinds of raw material, worsted yarns,

174 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

cotton and jute are much dearer than at the beginning of the
year, and manufacturers have had to bear the strain of a rising
market throughout the year. It may be stated that worsteds
have risen during the year quite 20 per cent, cottons 30 per cent,
and are to-day higher than they have been for one or two
decades ; jutes are at least 20 per cent higher than at the begin-
ning of the year, with the probability of increased quotations
being made at an early date, and linens have also gone up, but
the rise has not been as pronounced as with the other materials.
No doubt most of the manufacturers covered their needs for the
year many months ago, but as the contracts have worked out they
have had to face the increased demands of the spinners, and the
immediate future must be viewed with much concern. It seems
pretty certain that carpets of all grades will be dearer before the
new year has far advanced.

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS OF WOOL. 175

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF
WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL FOR THE TWELVE
MONTHS ENDING DECEMBER 31, 1909 and 1910.

Gross Imports.

ARTI0LZ8 AND C0ITNTRIE8.

Wool, Hair op the Camel, Goat,
Alpaca, etc., and MANurAOTURBS
of:

Unmanufactured—
Claea 1 — Clothing ( dutiable) —
Imported from—

United Kingdom

Belgium

Argentina

Uruguay

Australia and Tasmania . . .
Other countries

Total

Clais 2 — Combing (dutiable)-
Imported from —

United Kingdom

Canada

South America

Other countries

Total

Class 3 — Carpet (dutiable) -
Imported from —
United Kingdom . . . .
Russia in Europe . . . .

Other Europe

Argentina

Chinese Empire

EaHt Indies

Turkey in Asia

Other countries

Total

Total unmanufactured

Manufactures of —
Carpets and Carpeting (duti-
able)—
Imported from —

United Kingdom

Turkey In Europe

Asia

Other countries

Total

Quantities for Twelve

Months ending

December 31.

1900.

Pounds.

55,383,405
5,293,784

34,891,944
4,664,310

35,177,946
8,389,860

1910.

143,801,339

Pounds.

21,247,459

40,542

22,221,590

6,502,975
28,309,907

6,274,085

84,596,558

Values for Twelve
Months ending
December 31.

$12,548,426
1,204,930
5,999,321
999,767
8,697,451
1,718,586

$31,168,481

lOlO.

$5,360,138
11,942
5,192,006
1,625,843
7,310,772
1,639,937

$21,040,633

27,500,781
2,021,573 I
2,183,049
453,918

12,348,474
1,447,778
2,503,105
1,189,242

32,109,321

17,488,599

$6,613,157

493,370

454,958

93,672

$7,655,157

$3,119,130
373,123
667,204
419,324

$4,578,781

34,125,904
14,094,484
16,735,118

7,058,137
38,287,670

8,451,482
10,376,948

7,090,768

136,220,511

19,069,851
10,057,655
6,478,024
2,648,549
29,972,788
1,900,740
3,626,862
4,295,355

78,049,824

$4,506,540
1,973,994
2,200,168

799,799
3,918,168
1,059,629
1,497,680

750,750

$16,706,728

312,131,171 180,134,981 $55,530,366 $36,102,447

$2,897,940
1,417,-532
890,931
298,098
3,674,098
239,147
567,410
497,882

$10,483,033

Sq. Yards.

153,746

647,541

281,318

78,426

Sq. Yards.

132,091

499,908

404,988

99,069

$373,529

2,931,534

953,885

291,985

$345,511

2,197,746

1,209,342

396,038

1,161,031

1,136,056

$4,550,933

$4,148,036

176 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND

WOOL, Etc.

Gross Imports. — Continued.

EXPORTS OF

Articles and Codntries.

Clothing, ready-made, and other
wearing apparel (dutiable) . .

Cloths— (dutiable)—
Imported from —
United Kingdom

Belgium

Germany ....
Other co'intries .

Total

Dress Goods, Women's and
Children's — (dutiable)—
Imported from —

United Kingdom

France ...

Germany

Other countries

Total

Quantities for Twelve

Months ending

December 31.

1909.

Pounds.

1910.

Pounds.

Values for Twely*

Months ending

December 31.

lOOD.

$1,639,122

Sq. Yards.

22,348,003

11,537,708

10,263,011

175,521

All other (dutiable) . .
Total manufactures of .

44,314,243

Sq. Yards.

22,898,556

11,865,988

6,717,973

128,789

41,610,306

$3,580,194

2,604,481

2,407,235

45,376

$8,637,286

$1,239,684

$22,058,711

lOlO.

$2,145,651

3,066,314
625,270

1,644,303
464,389

3,167,981
533,011

1,354,670
375,068

$3,379,501

607,203

1,512,530

492,432

$3,457,569

547,608

1,280,111

396,892

5,800,276

5,430,730

$5,991,686

$5,682,180

$4,012,360

2,558,949

1,665,986

34,985

$8,272,280

$1,338,749

$21,587,496.

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS OF WOOL.

177

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF
WOOL, Etc.— Concluded.

Exports of Wool and Manufactures of.

Foreign.

Articles.

lOOO.

lOlO.

1909.

1910.

Quantities.

Values.

Wool, Hair of the Camel, Goat,

Alpaca, etc., and Manufactures

of:

Unmanufactured—

Class 1— Clothing (dutiable) lbs .

ClasB 2 — Combing " " .

Class 3— Carpet " " .

740,344
37,240
306,098

7,062,294

64S,499

1,344,433

$121,424

7,955

40,302

$1,700,091
141,883
182,961

Total unraanufactured ....

1,083,682

8,055,226

$169,681

$2,024,935

Manufactures of—

Carpets and carpeting, sq. yds.,

12,402

8,254

$56,340

13,997
30,233

47,035
42,271

$47,852

22,433
33,046

43,092
33,031

Clothing, ready made, and other

Cloths, pounds, dutiable

Dress goods, women's and chil-
dren's, sq. yds., dutiable . . .

34,825
247,411

38,321
213,936

$189,876

$179,454

Domestic.

Wool, and Manufactures of :

Wearing apparel

All other

$1,383,296
739,869

$2,123,165

$1,507,451
852,481

$2,359,932

178 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

QUARTERLY REPORT OF THE BOSTON WOOL MARK:ET
FOR OCTOBER, NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER, 1910.
Domestic Wools. (George W. Benedict.)

Ohio, Pennsylvania, and West
Virginia,
(■washed.)

XX anil above

k Blood

October. November. December

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine . . .
k Blood . . .

Fine Delaine

Michigan, Wisconsin, New York,

ETC.
(WASHED.)

Fine

i Blood

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine ...
§ Blood . . .

Fine Delaine

Kentucky and Indiana,
(unwashed.)
i Blood

30 (g 31

29 ,0 30

33 @ 34

3:j @ 34

32 @ 33

33 © 34

22 ® 23

28 @ 29

27 ig 28

26 @ 27

Braid

Missouiti, Iowa, and Illinois.

(UNWASHED.)

i Blood

Braid

Texas,
(scoured basis.)

Spring, tine, 12 iiioutlis

" " 6 to 8 months

■' medium, 12 montha

" " 6 to 8 months . . .

Fall, line

" medium

California.

(scoured BASIS.)

Spring, Northern, free, 12 months .
" " " 6 to 8 months

Fall, free

" defective

Territory Wool: Montana, Wyo-
ming, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, etc.
(scoured basis.)
Staple, tine and fine medium . . . .

" medium

Clothing, fine

" " medium .......

" medium

New Mexico. (Spring.)
(scoured basis.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3 ;

No. 4

New Mexico. (Fall.)

(SCOURED basis.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. .3

No. 4

Georgia and Southern.
Unwashed

32 @ 33

32 g 33

31 @ .32

32 a 33

20 (g 21

27 @ 28

27 (g 28

26 !g 27

25 3 26

28 @ 29
27 ig 28
22 (g 23

27 @ 28
25 @ 26
22 e 23

58 @ 60

52 ® 54

52 m 64

47 (g 48

48 @ 50
42 @ 43

55 (3 66
51 (g 52
44 ig 45
35 @ 38

62 (H 63

58 @ 69

56 (g 57

56 i@ 56

50 g 51

55 @ 67
46 (g 47
36 Q 37
34 ig 35

44 @ 45

38 ig 40

33 (ft 34

30 (g 31

24 @ 25

30 @ 31

29 a 30

33 (g 34

32 ® 33

33 (g 34

22 ig 23

28 (g 29

28 @ 29

27 (g 28

26 @ 27

32 § 33
32 ig 33

31 (g 32

32 ® 33

20 g 21

27 ig 28

27 (g 28

26 @ 27

25 (g 26

28 @ 29
27 @ 28
22 @ 23

27 @ 28
25 g 26
22 ® 23

58 g 60
62 a 64
52 i 54

47 g 48

48 g 50
42 a 43

65 g 56
51 © 52
44 @ 45
35 g 38

62 (S 63
58 S 59
56 @ 57
55 g 56
50 @ 51

55 (g 57
46 @ 47
36 g 37
34 (g 35

44 g 46
38 (H 40
33 i 34
30 a 31

24 ig 25

30 @ 31

29 a 30

34 (g 35

33 ig 34

32 ® 33

33 e 34

22 @ 23

29 @ 30

28 ® 29

27 0 28

26 S 27

32 g 33

32 (g 33

31 (g 32

32 ig 33

20 @ 21

28 ® 29

27 (g 28

26 (g 27

25 g 26

28 S 29
27 (g 28
22 (g 23

27 (3 28
25 Q 26
22 a 23

58 ® 60

62 @ 64

52 ig 64

47 @ 48

48 Ig 60
42 @ 43

55 @ 66
51 @ 62
44 @ 45
36 @ 38

62 (g 63

58 @ 59

56 !g 57

55 ig 56

60 g 51

55 @ 57
46 ® 47
36 @ 37
34 @ 35

44 (g 45

38 @ 40

33 (g 34

30 @ 31

24 @ 26

1909.

December.

36 ig 37

34 (g 35

40 (g 41

38 g 39

38 (g, 39

27 @ 28

36 (g 37

36 (g 87

34 @ 35

31 a 32

iff
30

36 § 37
34 ig 35
29 g 30

36 @ 37
34 ig 36

28 g 29

74 Q 75
67 ig 68
66 @ 67

60 g 62

61 Q 62
53 @ 55

67 (8 69
62 @ 64
55 e 57
40 g 45

74 (g 76
68 (8 70
68 (8 70
66 « 67
64 g 66

57 0 58
47 g 50
43 a 45

56 @ 57
49 a 52
45 3 46
40 g 42

QUARTERLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 179

Domestic Wool.

Boston, December 31, 1910.

The last quarter of the year opened with a rather more active market than
had been experienced for some months previous. A number of the large
worsted manufacturers replenished their stocks with good-sized lines and
this movement served to quicken trade both among the smaller manufac-
turers and dealers. For a few weeks it seemed as though the tide had turned
and the outlook was decidedly more hopeful for the prevalence of normal
conditions in the market. Prices were firmer but quotations were not mate-
rially changed.

These fond hopes were of short duration, however, as tiie fall elections,
accompanied by the Democratic landslide, had a most depressing effect on
business as it presaged further tariff changes in the near future. The mar-
ket gradually quieted down and another period of inactivity prevailed through
the remainder of the year, manufacturers buying only to cover their imme-
diate wants.

Statistics show a larger amount of domestic wool on hand than usual at
the close of the year; but the mills are carrying light supplies, and, should
the heavy-weight season prove a successful one, undoubtedly the present
stock of wool will practically all be absorbed before the new clip is ready for
market.

George W. Benedict.

Polled Wools. {Scoured basis.) (W. A. Blanchard.)

Brushed, Extra .
Fine A . . . .
A Super ....
B Super ....
C Super ....
Fine Combing .
Combing ....
California, Extra

Oct.

62®

55 ig
50 g
45 ig
33 a
55 @
45 ig
55 @

Nov.

82 @65
55 g 58
50 3 53
45 g47
33 g 38
54 @ 58
44 (g 4$
54 @ 53

Dec.

60 @ 65
55 g 67
50 (§53
43 g 47
33 ig 3S
53 @ f.S
43 ig 48
53 @ 58

1009.

Dec.

72 IS 75
67 3 70
0(1 .g 65
53 3 68
37 3 40
65 (g 70
53 a 60
67 (3 70

Remarks.
Pulled wools were in fair demand during the quarter and many of the
large pullers kept their sales well up to production. While most of the wool
went directly into consumers' hands, dealers were free buyers of certain
grades, particularly of A and B lambs, as later in the winter the character of
the pullings changes and the wools grow longer in staple. Prices have been
steady for the limited range of grades actually pulled in the period, the
quotations given on the combings being nominal, as few staple wools were
made and fewer carried over. Low and coarse wools have sold well, also
grays, which advanced in value three cents a pound during the quarter.
Choice white A's and B's sold readily at the outside quotations. Business
fell off a little in December, but the market generally held firm.

W. A. Blanchard.

Boston, January 2, 1931.

180 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUEERS.

Foreign Wools. (Mauger & Avery.)

A.u8tralian Combing :

Choice

Good

Average

Australian Clothing ;

Choice

Good

Average

Sydney and Queensland :

Good Clothing

Good Combing

Australian Crossbred :

Choice

Average

Australian Lambs :

Choice

Good

Good Defective

Cape of Good Hope :

Choice

Average

&f ontevideo :

Choice

Average

Crossbred, Choice

Knglish Wools :

Sussex Fleece

Shropshire Hogs

Yorkshire Hogs

Irish Selected Fleece ....
Carpet Wools :

Scotch Highland, White . .

East India, 1st White Joria .

East India, White Kandahar

Donskoi, Washed, White .

Aleppo, White

China Ball, White

" " No. 1, Open . .

'• " No. 2, Open . .

1910.

Oct.

40
37
35

40
35
35

35
36

37
34

42
39
35

34
31

34
32
35

40
40
36

@42
@42
@ 38

@ 22
@32
@ 26
@34
@ 23
©24
@21
@14

Nov.

40 @ 41

37 @ 39

35 @ 37

40 @41

35 @37

35 @36

35 @ 37

36 (g38

37 3 40

34 @ 36

42 @ 46

39 (g 40

35 @ 36

34 @ 35

31 @ 33

34 ig 35
31 (g 33

35 @ 39

40 @ 42
40 @ 42

36 @38

21 @ 22
30 @32
24 @26
32 @ 34

22 @ 23
22 (g 24
20 @ 21
13 @ 14

Deo.

40 @41

36 ig38

35 @37

40 @42

36 © 38
35 © 36

35 @ 39

36 @ 38

37 @ 40

34 @ 36

42 @ 46

39 @ 40

35 @ 36

34 @ 35
32 @33

35 @ 36
31 @ 33

35 ® 39

40 § 42
40 @ 42

36 @ 38

21 @ 23
SO ©32
24 © 26
32 © 34

22 @ 25
22 © 24
20 © 21
13 © 14

leoo.

Dec.

42 ® 44

40 0 41

30 © 40

42 i3 43

40 a 41

38 & 40

40 & 41

42 ® 43

42 (S43

36 0 38

42 ® 46
40 ® 43

35 0 38

85 @ 37

32 0 33

85 0 37

33 0 34

37 9 39

43 0 44
42 @44
37 O 38

36 ©37

22 0 24

32 ©33

26 ©28

32 © 34

32 0 34

22 © 23

20 ©21

13 @ 14

Foreign Wools.

The last quarter of the year showed no improvement over those preced-
ing it. The demand for foreign wools generally was very much restricted,
and with increasing anxiety on the part of sellers, values continued in
buyer's favor and prices were a little below the cost of importation.

Stocks of all classes of imported wools in bonded warehouses have been
steadily depleted without causing any betterment in prices.

Carpet wools have been in principal demand during the quarter, the seem-
ing scarcity of third class wools abroad compelling buyers to look into
stocks on this side. Low values of domestic crossbreds have tended to
exclude English and similar wools from the current demand.

Orders from America for South American and Australian wools this
season, owing to unfavorable conditions here, have been of a very limited
amount compared with last year.

Boston, January 3, 1911.

182 national association of wool manufacturers.

Charles W. Leonard.
James M. Prendergast.
Philip Stockton.
William H. Wellington.
WiNTHROP L. Marvin, Secretary.

Invitations were issued in the name of the committee ~to
several hundred of Mr. Whitman's personal friends and busi-
ness associates in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Provi-
dence, Lawrence, New Bedford, Fall River, and other cities.
The scope of the plan for the dinner was a broad one. It
was recognized by the committee that Mr. Whitman's great
work as an upbuilder of industry appealed to men of all
shades of political and economic belief, and the result was a
gathering of important business men such as is seldom seen
in Boston.

The presiding officer at the dinner was John P. Wood of
Philadelphia, the successor of Mr. Whitman in the presi-
dency of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers.
The toastmaster was Hon. John D. Long, one of the most
distinguished citizens of the Commonwealth — a former
Governor, member of Congress, and Secretary of the Navy
during the war with Spain. The speakers represented a wide
range of interests.

The dinner was held in the large ballroom of the Hotel
Somerset at 7 p.m., and was preceded by a reception beginning
at six-thirt}^, where Mr. Whitman received the direct personal
congratulations of the guests. The committee on arrange-
ments was assisted at this reception by :

Samuel G. Adams.
Andrew Adie.
F. H. Carpenter.
Joseph R. Grundy.

in honor of william whitman. 183

George E. Kunhardt.
Daniel D. Morss.
Richard S. Russell.
C. J. tl. Woodbury.

At the dinner Mr. Whitman sat on the right hand of
President Wood, and at Mr. Wood's left hand was Governor
Long. Other gentlemen at the head table were Dr. Richard
C. Maclaurin, President of the Massachusetts Institute of
Technology ; Hon. Eben S. Draper, ex-Governor of the Com-
monwealth ; Franklin W. Hobbs, President of the National
Association of Cotton Manufacturers and Treasurer of the
Arlington Mills ; Hon. Samuel L. Powers, ex-Represencative
in Congress from Mr. Whitman's district ; Hon. John T.
Cahill, Mayor of Lawrence; George S. Smith, President of
the Boston Chamber of Commerce ; Judge William A. Day
of New York, President of the Equitable Life Assurance
Society, in which Mr. Whitman had long served as a fellow-
director; John Hopewell, of L. C. Chase & Company, chair-
man of the committee on arrangements ; Colonel George H.
Doty, Assistant Treasurer of the United States at Boston ;
Clarence Whitman, of Clarence Whitman & Company of New
York, a brother of Mr. Whitman ; Stephen O'Meara, Police
Commissioner of Boston ; Frederic C. Dumaine, President of
the Arkwright Club ; Hon. William B. Plunkett of North
Adams ; Frederic S. Clark, President of the American Asso-
ciation of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers and Vice-
President of the National Association of Wool Manufactu-
rers ; Charles H. Hutchins of Worcester, Vice-President of
the Home Market Club, and Frederic P. Vinton of Boston,
the eminent artist who has painted Mr. Whitman's portrait.

In opening the speech-making after the dinner President
Wood of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers
said :

184 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

PRESIDENT JOHN P. WOOD.

It is, I presume, because the Association for which I am
commissioned to speak upon this occasion is the oklest of
the national trade organizations, and the first to engage the
interest of our guest of honor, that I am privileged to address
you first.

In certain high altitudes of government it has lately
become fashionable to characterize as obsolete anything that
has existed for so great a period of time as thirty years.
But I confess to a respect for venerable institutions, be they
associations or laws, that have stood the test of time without
impairment of principle or usefulness.

The Association of Wool Manufacturers after nearly half
a century of existence still holds true to the high purpose
which brought it into being ; and having witnessed the rise
and fall, the death and burial of many public agitations
begotten by political demagogy and born of popular hysteria,
I doubt not it will survive the present campaign of abuse
and untruth, to abundantl}^ justify the cause for which it
has faithfully and fearlessly labored.

In an address delivered at a convention of manufacturers
and growers of wool held in Syracuse about the time when
Mr. Whitman began his activity in this great industry, a
distinguished secretary of the Wool Manufacturers Associa-
tion said :

" We are as yet in our infancy in our manufactures. The
work before us is to clothe all the people of the United States
with our wool and our fabrics. We have just commenced
the work, and when a full supply of raw material is furnished,
and grower and manufacturer are encouraged by a stable
system of protection, the imagination can hardly conceive
the grand field which will be opened in this country in the
industry of wool and woolens."

A PROPHECY FULFILLED.

Dr. Hayes' anticipation, so far as it referred to domestic
wool manufacture, is now a fact accomplished. Since that

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 185

time the industry has been developed and expanded until at
the present time the woolen mills of the United States are
abundantly able to produce all the woolen and worsted goods
required for the clothing of our entire population.

Foremost among the pioneers who blazed the way for the
wonderful expansion of this industry to its present propor-
tions is the distinguished guest in whose honor we have
come together to-night.

Combining with an unusual skill in affairs, a keen fore-
sight, abounding faith and sublime courage, bold conceptions
were by him made practical realities.

Possessing a public confidence in his ability and rectitude,
capital, always shy, and sometimes wayward, at his command
was directed to channels of industrial usefulness that liave
brought to the communities in which his activities have been
exercised benefits too vast to be calculable.

Endowed with intellectual qualities that peculiarly fitted
him for the study and exposition of economic problems, he
might more easily have won distinction in an academic life.
But the world has been the gainer through the application
of those great talents to the practical problems of commerce
and industry.

A BENEFICIAL EXCHANGE.

Permit me to interject a speculative inquiry here. In
recent years some of the great institutions of learning in this
country and abroad have instituted the practice of inter-
changing professors for a term, the purpose being to create a
broader and more liberal scholastic atmosphere in the several
seats of wisdom. Would it not be of incalculable benefit if
this idea could be given a further extension, to the end that
there might be for brief periods a similar interchange between
the institutions of learning and those institutions engaged in
performing the world's work? Imagine, if you please, our
honored guest exchanging chairs with a learned professor of
political economy in a famous university not far distant, and
ask yourselves whether the collegians or the personnel of the

186 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

mills would derive the greatest benefit from the teaching of
the visiting instructors.

The domain of our guest's activities has been a wide and
varied one. I come from a single field of his labors to bear
testimony to his service therein.

For a generation past Mr. William Whitman has been the
guiding spirit in the counsels of the National Association of
Wool Manufacturers and for upwards of seventeen years has
served as its president. His colleagues in tlie membership
of that Association desire to fittingly commemorate this
long, faithful and able service, and I crave your indulgence
for availing of this occasion to announce the presentation to
Mr. Whitman on behalf and in the name of the National
Association of Wool Manufacturers of a portrait, painted by
your eminent townsman, Mr. Frederic P. Vinton, the
acceptance of which we ask as an evidence of our regard,
esteem and appreciation. (Applause.)

It would be an act of the greatest presumption upon my
part to venture to introduce to this audience a fellow citizen
of yours so distinguished that his name has become a house-
hold word, not less for the great service that he has rendered
to the state and the nation than for his charming personality.
I shall therefore avoid any formal introduction and simply
now invite to act as your chairman and toastmaster the
Hon. John D. Long. (Great applause.)

HON. JOHN D. LONG.

Mr. President : You have given me the easiest place of
all. General Butler and Governor Talbot were once at a
military ball in Lowell. They were leaning unoccupied
against the wall, and in the lack of other conversation Gov-
ernor Talbot said to General Butler, " General, don't 3'ou
dance?" "No," said the General,"! make other people
dance." A man who could make as good a retort as that
ought to have a bronze statue erected to his memory.
(Laughter and applause.) I am not going to dance to-night ;
I am going to make these other fellows dance, and naturally
the inference is that I ought to have a bronze statue, too.

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 187

(Laughter, and a voice " You will." ) I hope mj enthusiastic
friend will not think of putting that project into execution
at once. Will he kindly defer it a few yeai-s ?

Well, to' be serious, gentlemen, I am very happy indeed to
act as toastmaster at this dinner given in honor not only of a
man but also of the interests he represents (applause) — not
his interests alone, not merely the interests of capital, repre-
sented so largely here to-night, but the interests of a great
industry, which involves the welfare and the fortunes of
the very foundation of our institutions, and that is labor.
(Applause.)

As the President has said, oitr guest has been President of
the National Association of Wool Manufacturers for seven-
teen out of its forty years of existence. From the hard
beginning of an errand boy in a Boston commission house he
has risen till he stands as the highest authority in our
national cotton and woolen industries and the most con-
spicuous figure in that realm. (Applause.)

Under his directing hand are half a dozen of the very
largest cotton and woolen mills in this Commonwealth. The
annual output, as you know, is enormous. The annual
wages, I think $6,000,000, are paid to 15,000 employees, mak-
ing with their families perhaps 75,000 people in Massachu-
setts whose comfortable homes and whose large opportunities
for education and free American life are the best evidence of
that superiority in the condition of its labor which marks
Massachusetts, and to which this man has contributed by his
pen, his word, and still more by his constant, strenuous
effort. (Applause.) That is what he has done for labor.

When you further consider that there are something like
140,000 persons in our Commonwealth emplo3^ed in the
same lines, their product $250,000,000 a year, their wages
$50,000,000 a year, constituting with their families perhaps
half a million or more persons who are dependent upon the
continued successful operation of this industry, you may
well hesitate at any such impairment of a fostering system as
shall tend to stop its mills, to reduce its wages or strike at
the welfare of those who have most, because it is their all, at
stake. (Applause.)

188 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

A DYNAMIC FORCE.

It certainly is not too much to say, as has already been
intimated by you, Mr. President, that in recent years our
guest has been the dynamo whose force has held and directed
this industrial development. More than any other man he
has contributed to its literature of argument and exposition.
His reputation to-day is national. With the courage of his
convictions, — and nobody ever doubts that (laughter and
applause), — with the courage of his convictions he has not
hesitated to make himself a target to opposing forces and has
arrayed against himself often bitter and stinging criticism.
But let him remember that while in our public life there is
nothing better than honest and outspoken difference of
opinion, free to us all, there has never been the slightest per-
sonal reflection upon him, and that he commands to-day, and
always has commanded, the respect and trust of those who
have fought him hardest. (Applause.) This gathering,
utterly non-partisan, of Democrats and Republicans, men who
have been candidates for the governorship on both sides
(laughter), is their common, united tribute to him, not in any
narrow capacity, but in the broadest recognition of his life and
services as a merchant, as a manufacturer and best of all as a
good citizen. (Applause.) In these cordial and welcoming
faces, these faces here typical of a host more, let him read
that best of all rewards, " Well done." (Renewed applause.)

I must not, however, forget that I am here to enforce one
parliamentary rule, and that is that no speaker, with the
exception of our guest who is unlimited in that respect, shall
exceed ten minutes. Gentlemen on the platform will please
take notice. (Laughter.)

Naturally we should turn first of all to the head of our
Commonwealth. Governor Foss seems to be making good.
He, too, speaks his mind ; and he, too, is in the cotton
interest. But he is detained to-night, much to his regret, by
a previous engagement at Worcester, and I will ask Mr.
Hopewell to read his very cordial letter of tribute and
regret. Mr. Hopewell, will you read the Governor's letter ?

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 189

LETTERS OF REGRET AND FELICITATION.
Mr. John Hopewell said: Mr. Toastmaster, as I am
informed that there is a little delicacy between the Governor
of a commonwealth and the members of the Senate, with
the Governor's indulgence I will read first some letters from
the Senate of the United States, and then I will read the
Governor's letter.

My dear Mr. Marvin :

Your letter of the 16th instant is received. I am sorry
that my duties here will prevent me from attending the
dinner that is to be given to Mr. William Whitman on April
26th, but I thank you and through you the committee having
the dinner in charge for their kindness in inviting me. Mr.
Whitman has been a great leader in the textile business and
his services in behalf of protection to New England indus-
tries have been of inestimable value, and I am glad that his
associates are going to recognize him in this way.

Sincerely yours,

W. M. Crane.
(Applause.)

We have a great many letters, and it is impossible to read
them all. We have also a letter from Senator Lodge regret-
ting his inability to be with us and join with us to-night, and
this letter from the distinguished senior Senator from New
Hampshire :

United Statks Senate,

Washington, April 20, 1911.

My dear Mr. Marvin :

It is a matter of real regret to me that I am unable to
accept the invitation to the dinner to Mr. William Whitman,
on the 26th day of April. I would like very much indeed
to have the privilege of taking him by the hand on that
occasion, as well as to give him and his friends my renewed
assurance of sj-mpathy and cooperation in the work in which
he has so long been engaged. In these days of so-called
reform, when an attack upon the protective policy of the
country is imminent, it is well for real friends of the protec-
tive policy to take counsel together, and do what they can to
avert a calamity that is sure to come to the country if the

190 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

present program of the Democratic majority in the House of
Representatives becomes an accomplished fact.

Be good enough personally to extend to Mr. Whitman my
assurances of regard and good will, and trusting that the
occasion may be one of rare pleasure and profit to all who
may be privileged to attend, know me to be,

Most cordially yours,

J. H. Gallinger.
(Applause.)

The Commonwealth of Massachusetts,
Executive Chamber,

State House, Boston, April 24, 1911.

Mr. John Hopewell, Chairman^

683 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.

My dear Sir : I acknowledge with many thanks your
letter of April 12th and accompanying invitation to a recep-
tion and dinner in honor of Mr. William Whitman at Hotel
Somerset, Boston, on April 26th.

Several weeks before receiving this invitation I had
accepted an invitation to attend the annual banquet of the
Worcester Board of Trade on the same date ; and if it is
possible for me to get away at all on that day I feel that I
must go to Worcester.

I wish you would convey to your associates on the com-
mittee my warm appreciation of the invitation and my real-
izing sense of the distinction which Mr. Whitman has
worthily attained in the Commonwealth.

It would afford me deep gratification to be present and pay
my tribute to Mr. Whitman in person, if I could do so.

Very truly yours,

E. N. Foss.

State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations,
Executive Department,

Providence, April 18, 1911.

Mr. Winthrop L. Marvin,

683 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass.

My dear Sir: I regret extremely that I shall be unable
to be present, in response to the cordial invitation of the
committee, at the dinner in honor of Mr. William Whitman
at the Hotel Somerset, on the evening of the 26th instant.

I should be most happy to be one of the many who will pay
homage to Mr. Whitman on that occasion, but I am compelled

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 191

by force of circumstances and a strenuous period in state
legislation to confine myself to my duties here for the
remainder of the present month.

Assuring you and the members of the committee of my
deep appreciation of the lionor conferred by your invitation,
and trusting that you will convey to the distinguished guest
of the evening my sincere personal compliments, I am.

Yours very truly,

A. J. POTHIER,

Governor.
(Applause.)

There have been innumerable letters from distinguished
men from all over the country, but the time is so limited I
can only read a few. I have one here from a man who stands
at the head of the largest wool manufacture in the world, who
cannot be present, but who sends this letter, a portion of
which I will read :

Mr. John P. Wood, President,

National Association of Wool Manufacturers,

521 North 22d St., Philadelphia, Pa.

Dear Mr. Wood : I had hoped to be present with you at
the dinner in honor of Mr. William Whitman on April 26th,
but cannot have the pleasure. However, I am very glad that
our company will be fully represented on that evening. . . .

The vast modern development of the textile manufacturing
industry in New England has nearly all come within Mr,
Whitman's lifetime. He has not merely witnessed it ; he has
been a great part of it himself. For his energy, his sagacity,
his courage, his power to plan and create, we manufacturers
all owe William Whitman an imperishable debt of gratitude.
He is distinctively one of the great men of our time. It is a
proud privilege to know him. No tribute that can possibly
be paid to him, to his character and his achievements, will be
undeserved.

I am very truly yours,

Wm. M. Wood.
(x^pplause.)

The Toastmaster. — We will give the rest of the letter-
writers leave to report in print. Having heard from them,
we will now proceed to enjoy ourselves. (Laughter.)

192 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Technical education lies very near the textile arts. I have
emphasized the element of labor ; I hope to see the time
come when the man at his loom will regard himself as much
an artist as the poet or the sculptor or the painter. The
whole tendency is to make all employment to-day, what it
should be, a fine art, whether it be domestic labor, or the
labor of the loom, or the labor of the mechanic-, — the exal-
tation of hand labor to the artistic ideal. Who shall speak
to us of that relation better than the present head of the
Institute of Technolog}', the parent of these textile schools,
which the State is encouraging and helping and which are
doing so much for the education of the hand as well as of
the mind. I call upon Dr. Richard C. Maclaurin, President
of the Institute of Technology. (Great applause.)

DR. RICHARD C. MACLAURIN.

Mr. Toastmaster, Mr. Whitman, and Gentlemen:
On an occasion like this one would like to appear as a busi-
ness man, but I have no claims to that high honor. I am
here, as has been suggested, as a representative of the
schools, and I am glad in such a capacity to take part in this
tribute of respect and of admiration for the splendid work
of a great man of business.

The world of business and the world of education have
long been too far separated, but they are coming together
at last. Following the cue of your President I have
to-night invited Mr. Whitman to assume tlie honorable and
lucrative position of a professor at the Institute of Tech-
nology. (Applause.) Should he see fit to accept that invita-
tion he would be welcomed to the Institute with unbounded
enthusiasm. No institution has done more than that one to
bring together the worlds of business and of learning, and
none believes more firmly that the bringing together of those
two worlds is one of the best seeds of promise for the future
of this country.

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 193

I have been reminded by Mr. Whitman to-night that that
Institute of Technoh)gy in its early days, as ever since,
owed great things to the business men of Boston. Such
men as Mr. E. B. Bigelow and Mr, J. M. Beebe were the
men who fifty years ago saw that there was something dis-
tinctly lacking in the educational system of the day. They
saw that the older schools, splendid as some of them were,
neglected too much some of the great practical affairs of life,
devoted their attention too exclusively to training men for
the older professions, failed to recognize that in the changes
of time new professions had arisen quite as important to the
welfare of society and of tremendous potential power in the
business world. We owe much to those shrewd men of
business of fifty years ago. They saw clearly enough that
technical education was a good business investment, and
through the foundation of the Institute of Technology and
of textile schools and other similar institutions in this com-
munity they did great things to introduce this modern idea'
of practical education into the world as a whole. Their idea
was a new idea fifty years ago ; it is a commonplace to-day.
The Institute of Technology within the last few days has been
celebrating its fiftieth anniversary and we have had from all
parts of this Commonwealth testinion}^ that the business
men of to-day recognize the importance of that kind of
education and see quite clearly now what only a few saw
then, that those shrewd, sagacious business men were per-
fectly right, and that they rendered a splendid service to
education when they broke into the field fifty years ago.

I am not here to talk about the Institute of Technology,
but these recent celebrations to which I have referred have
suggested to ni}^ mind that on a congratulatory occasion such
as this it is not improper to dissect the subject that is being
extolled, to lay bare for our edification the reasons that have
explained in a sense the great achievements that w^e are all
talking about, and it occurs to me to repeat one of the expla-
nations of the success of the Institute of Technology, because
it seems to me peculiarly relevant to this occasion.

194 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

THE INSTITUTE AND BUSINESS,

It was said a few days ago that the success of the Institute
of Technology was a perfectly simple thing ; its secret was
just this : that the Institute had from the very outset a clear
view of the object aimed at; it had from the very outset per-
fectly definite ideas (whether they were right or wrong) as to
how it was going to reach that object; it had never allowed
itself to be turned aside from its purpose, and, in a single
word, it had ahvarjs stuck to business. The doctrine of stick-
ing to business is somewhat old-fashioned to-day, but I
believe that our guest to-night could, if he would, preach an
eloquent sermon from that text.

The wiseacres tell us on every hand that we are passing
through a period of transition, as if every thinking man did
not know that every period is a period of transition. The
truth is, however, that some periods of transition are a little
more uncomfortable in their adjuncts than are others. Thus,
in England, we have the suffragettes, of whom their critics
say that they have ceased to be ladies and have not yet
become gentlemen, and we have in the business world of this
country a number of people who seem to have ceased to be
individualists and have not yet become socialists. They talk
a great deal about the service of society, a splendid ideal of
course, but in practice it seems too often to take the form of
neglecting your own affairs and harassing other people as to
the conduct of theirs. (Laughter and applause.) It gives
rise to much loose talk as to the antithesis between the social
and the individual aim. There is no necessary antagonism at
all, for if a man really sticks to business, if he devotes himself
to his afPairs with no narrow, no purely selfish spirit, if he sets
himself heart and soul to do his own business thoroughly well
in all its details, then, like our guest of honor to-night, he is
not only a successful business man ; he renders, gentlemen, a
splendid service to society as a whole. (Continued applause.)

The Toastmaster. — Mr. Whitman's services have not
been limited to any one line of usefulness. You all know

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 195

how valuable his aid was in the rehabilitation of that great
insurance company, the Equitable Life Assurance Society
(applause), and we are very fortunate in having with us its
President, Judge William A. Day, of New York, whom I
now present to you.

JUDGE WILLIAM A. DAY.

I must confess a feeling of timidity, if not of awe, in
standing before a Massachusetts audience. It is the first
time I have ever done so. Born and reared in one of the
distant and older colonial States, I was taught from youth to
revere Massachusetts for her glorious history, her enlight-
ened institutions and great host of illustiious sons. I learned
to look upon a citizen of your Commonwealth as distin-
guished among men, and oftentimes coveted the honor of
being able to say, " I am a citizen of Massachusetts."

To be justly acclaimed by fellow citizens of the State one
of Massachusetts' worthies is an honor of which any man
might well feel proud. This gathering of citizens from
diverse fields of activity, presided over by one of the nation's
worthies, who has added luster to the fame of his State in
the highest counsels of the nation, testifies eloquently, quite
as much as what has been and will be said, that on that
exalted plane have you placed William Whitman. That is
a democracy's highest honor because it can only be born of
a man's works. I count it a high privilege to partake of
your feast and join in this tribute of good will and esteem
to so deserving a man.

For five and a half years it has been my privilege to be
closely associated with Mr. Whitman, as Governor Long has
said, in his efforts to rehabilitate the Equitable Life Assur-
ance Society. You doubtless well remember the apprehen-
sion and dread that was felt throughout the country at the
disclosures made in the course of an investigation of some of
the life insurance companies of the State of New Yoi-k.
This feeling was fully shared by the people of the New
England States, always justly celebrated for their thrift and

196 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUREKS.

providence. In these States the Equitable Society alone
had forty thousand policyholders who carried insurance
aggregating seventy millions of dollars, the reserve on which
exceeded twenty millions of dollars. In many instances the
policies represented entire fortunes, the savings of a lifetime,
and naturally the holders were alarmed by the stress laid
by the press on the revelations. Realizing the strength of
unit}^ these people organized what was termed " The New
England Policyholders Protective Committee." They recog-
nized the need of effective leadership and that the post called
for a man of honor, high intelligence, and force who would
take charge of these sacred interests pro bono publico. In
praise of their wisdom and his disinterested public spirit, be
it said, they chose William Whitman, chairman, and he
accepted. Man of large affairs that he is, he well knew the
duties involved in that position meant a great deal of valu-
able time, thought, and labor, without material reward of
any kind. He cheerfully gave all that was necessary to
accomplish the purpose of the organization. To his honor
it should be said that the pernicious practices and unsound
methods which had been indulged in by certain insurance
managers, and brought universal condemnation, have been
relegated to the realm of the impossible largely through Mr.
Whitman's efforts and cooperation with the Armstrong Com-
mittee in the direction of reform. Not all the recommenda-
tions of that Committee could Mr. Whitman agree to, but in
the main the substantial reforms adopted were those he
advocated.

You will perhaps also remember that in the month of
June, 1905, before the Armstrong Committee had begun its
work, Grover Cleveland, Judge Morgan J. O'Brien, and
George Westinghouse were appointed trustees of the
majority of the shares of the capital stock of the Equitable
Society by Mr. Thomas F. Ryan, who had recently acquired
it. The stock was conveyed to these trustees with plenary
power for its use in the reformation of the directorate of the
Society, and the free and undisturbed exercise of their
judgment to assure the policyholders that their interests were

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 197

in safe hands. Moved by the gravity of the situation and
the need of the hour the trustees proceeded to select quali-
fied men, of whose fidelity there could be no question, for
directors. Among the first selected, to whom Grover Cleve-
land and his colleagues gave full faith and confidence, was
Mr. Whitman.

A GREAT WORK IN INSURANCE.

The new insurance laws of New York were drastic. All
that legislation could do to make men faithful to fiduciary
obligations was intended to be done by the Armstrong laws.
Not fully satisfied with results of those laws, Mr. Whitman
drafted, as the active head of a committee of directors
appointed for the purpose, an improved scheme of internal
government for the Equitable, and it was crystallized in the
by-laws of the Society. The scheme provided checks and
balances on the powers of officials which, Avith the laws on
the subject, I believe effectually prevents any recurrence of
conduct approaching that which caused the anxiety of six
years ago. Subsequent experience has abundantly proven the
wisdom and sagacity of Mr. Whitman in this vital matter.

Perhaps I may be pardoned for believing that these
accomplishments are not the least of Mr. Whitman's record.
When you consider the millions of people affected by the
security of life insurance protection, and the Equitable
Society with its 500,000 policyholders and five hundred
millions of dollars of assets, managed by officials selected by
the Board of Directors, you get some idea of the magnitude
of the task he unselfishly undertook and capably discharged.
His services on our Board have been faithful and of high
value.

Gentlemen : In bringing these leaves for the laurel wreath
of esteem and affection we weave for Mr. Whitman to-night,
I express the gratitude of those thousands of beneficiaries of
his labors whom he can never know. We justly honor him
who put public advantage over private interest, and declining
to be merely a sympathizer, toiled for those results that
would protect the widows and orphans and reestablish the

198 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

fundamental faith of the people in the beneficence of
American life insurance.

If I could characterize in a word or two the impressions
made upon me by observation and association of five and
one-half years with William Whitman those words would be
" Conscientious and Efficient." (Applause.)

The Toastmastbr. — Just think of the joinder of Grover
Cleveland and William Whitman. (Laughter.) I wonder
if they discussed the tariff. (Laughter.)

Mr. Day, if you hadn't said that you felt a little timid
nobody would have believed it. The idea of an insurance
man being timid ! (Laughter.) And if you had opened
your heart to me before the speaking began I could have
told you that a Boston audience is the most good-natured in
the world, after eating and — eating. (Laughter.) In that
condition, I can say, after a long experience, that they will
bear anything (renewed laughter), especially such a charming
and cordial address as you have just made. (Applause.)

I have always wished that my friend — I came very near
saying Sam, but my friend Hon. Samuel L. Powers (ap-
plause), had been like one or two gentlemen whom I see in
this audience, a capitalist, for then he could have remained
in Congress. Perhaps no man in his early service there
made a stronger impression from the very first upon his
country and fellow congressmen. Could he have remained
I am sure that with his interest in Massachusetts industrial
and commercial development, he would have rendered us
still more most admirable service. I believe that he is pre-
pared, not specially for this occasion let me say, but always,
to speak upon the relation of those interests to national legis-
lation, and if he will only mingle a little of his charming
humor we shall be under still greater obligation to him, for

a little nonsense now and then
Is relished by the best of men.

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 199

The Hon. Samuel (applause, every one rising) — they are
so eager to applaud you they would not wait for the full
mention of your name.

hon. samuel l. powers.

Mr. Toastmaster, Mr. Whitman, and Mr. Whit-
man's Friends : No one can be more gratified than I am
to join you to-night in paying tribute to one of the greatest
men in tlie industrial world to-day. (Voices : " Right," and
applause.)

As I have looked over the list of speakers I have been
somewhat in doubt where I fit in. I notice that all the
speakers to-night either represent great interests or great
institutions. Personally I represent nothing. (Laughter.)
I'll tell you what I represent to-night, I represent the ulti-
mate consumer, and as I look over this audience I am inclined
to think I am the only ultimate consumer here to-night.
(Renewed laughter.)

You have been good enough, Mr. Toastmaster, to refer to
my once having been in Congress. Most people have
forgotten that, and if it were not for you and otlier men with
generous hearts it would entirely fade away. But I remem-
ber very well six j^ears ago when I retired from Congress
receiving a very magnificent banquet of this kind, in which
there were a great many things said that were not true.
There has been nothing said here to-night, and there will be
nothing said here to-night, that is not true. But I remember
that I never received such an ovation in my life as I did
when I retired from public life. (Laughter.) One of the
principal speakers said, and I think the audience believed
him, that the greatest service I had rendered the public was
my retirement. (Laughter.) There was one condition, how-
ever, imposed upon me before I accepted that dinner, and that
was that I should never be a candidate again for public office.
I assume that that condition is in no way imposed upon our
distinguished guest. He has not got to retire from manu-
facturing, nor has he got to retire from his interest in life
insurance and other great interests. (Applause.)

I had the honor, however, when I was in Congress, of

200 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

representing Mr. Whitman. I think he was the best constit-
uent I had in my district. He never so much as ever
asked me even for seeds for his garden, and what was more,
he was a very considerate man. He never found any fault
with my service, and I appreciate that very much, because I
had always understood that Mr. Wliitman was a man who
spoke his mind.

It mnst be a great satisfaction to our distinguished guest
to find some four hundred gentlemen of the character of
those present this evening to come here and to say that they
believe in him and that they appreciate the great service
which he has rendered. We live, my friends, at a time
when the tendency is for men to lose confidence in their
fellow men. We are drifting towards what is called pure
democracy (laughter), and by that I mean it in no partisan
sense but in the broad sense. We are up against what is
called the initiative, the referendum, the recall, and also the
direct primary, in which everybody takes part. Why, just
think what kind of Governors we might have had in the years
gone by if we had only had this direct primary. (Laughter.)
Hereafter there will be no Governors nominated by conven-
tions ; they will be nominated by the people voting as a whole.
When I look over the list of Governors that we have had in
this Commonwealth, and I refer not only to those who have
been elected by one party, but by the other, and remember
that they all were elected or nominated in conventions, it
seems to me that the system worked pretty well.

I am not here to discuss politics. I am here to show that
the tendency of the times is for men to lose confidence in
each other. In other words, apparently at least the majority
of the Massachusetts people are not willing that they should
be represented in convention by delegates of their own selec-
tion, they must vote themselves, and so hereafter any man
can run for Governor, — it is only a question of getting the
requisite number of names.

AN HONOR WELL DESERVED,

But really it is a pleasure to be here and to look into the
faces of this audience. I cannot but believe, Mr. Whitman,

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 201

that as the years roll by you will think of this as the most
significant occasion in your life. The beauty of this tribute
is that it is a tribute to a man that is entitled to receive it
(applause), it is a tribute to one who has won his place upon
absolute merit, it is a tribute to one who under the republican
institutions of this country has grown up from small begin-
nings to become a great power in the industrial world, and he
has reached it not because some one has pushed him, biit he
has reached it by force of his own honesty, integrity, and
ability. (Applause.) There are no people in the world that
recognize merit more clearly and more keenly than the people
of Massachusetts. There are no people in the world that
believe more thoroughly in character and industry than our
own people right here in this Commonwealth. And so I say
it is a great tribute when a man like Mr. Whitman comes up
from small beginnings to become a power in the industrial
world, that he has reached that position by merit, and that he
to-day not only has the respect of his friends who are gathered
here but he has the respect of the entire people of the Com-
monwealth, because the people of Massachusetts recognize
that any man who has built up the industries that he has built
up has not only performed a service which is of value to our
people but a service that is of value to the people of the entire
country.

We in Massachusetts owe our prosperity to the manu-
facturing industries. Have you ever thought that this little
State, way out here on the Atlantic seaboard, one of the
smallest States in area, a State with practically no natural
resources whatever, has more than 3,000,000 people better
fed, better clothed, better housed, better educated, than any
other people upon the face of the globe ? And why is it ?
We are in that position by reason of our manufactures. We
could not be there except for our manufactures. Any man
who builds up our manufactures, who fights for the economic
policies which are necessary to preserve those manufactures,
is the man who is serving the entire people of the Common-
wealth. And may God bless you, Mr. Whitman. May you
live for many years and appreciate the great work that you

202 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

have done, and may your reputation and your fame increase
not only among the people of the Commonwealth but among
all people who believe in that policy which has made Massa-
chusetts prosperous and has made the United States a great
republic. (Prolonged applause.)

The Toastmaster. — I agree, my dear friends, that we
have had pretty poor Governors in the past, but as I look at
the last speaker I cannot help thinking what we have been
spared. (Laughter.)

I do not believe it is easy to draw the line between com-
mercial and industrial interests. They blend together. They
are the twin columns on which the prosperity of Massachu-
setts rests. Who shall speak of their relations better than
the President of the Chamber of Commerce, recently elected
to that position, and most worthy of it, — Mr. George S.
Smith. (Continued applause.)

president george s. smith.

Mr. Toastmaster, Mr. Whitman, and Gentlemen:
I count it an honor to enter into the pleasures of this evening
and to pay my word of tribute to our honored guest.

In these days of expanding optimism regarding the
resources and the promise of a great future for New England,
fostered and developed by a universal recognition that at no
time has New England gone back or become decadent but
rather steadily, surely and relentlessly has enjoyed a distinct
industrial and commercial advance, we have been too prone
to lay the emphasis upon great machinery, great mills, great
industries, and too little inclined to recognize the worth of
the man behind the machinery, the genius in control of the
mill, and the master mind and brain at the head of a great
industry. And therefore to-night, as we contemplate the fact
that among the great industries of Massachusetts and New
England the closely allied industries of cotton manufacturing,
wool and woolen manufacturing are the largest and form a

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 203

very large proportion of the total output of the whole United
States, it certainly is fitting, and commendable, and just, and
right that we seek out the great leading spirit of this great
allied industry, which reflects to the glory of New England,
the man who has been the controlling spirit, the man who
has been behind the great machinery and is the genius of
great mills and is the master mind of a great industry.

This is called commonly a commercial age, and so it is if
by that phrase is meant a great expansion of modern business
methods and practices, the application of scientific principles,
and the opening door of opportunity for the development of the
individual, who by his own work and steady purpose compels
recognition and advancement. But this term is used rather
to characterize this era as one of sordid grasp and reach, and
I say that it is an unjust charge to levy against the business
men of this generation. The great business men are the men
who are earnestly and persistently seeking out those men of
training and rare equipment upon whom they can place the
responsibilities of management of large affairs. (Applause.)
And I venture to say that Mr. Whitman to-night would
freely say that one of the great fundamentals of his success
was the fact that early in life he had the broad vision to
recognize that he could not bring these gfreat results about
alone, but must have the intimate cooperation of faithful
co-laborers, and I happen to know personally several of his
intimate co-laborers and can testify to the wisdom and the
breadth of mind of William Whitman. (Applause.)

Some one has said that only those who are superior to
or the equals of a man can truly appreciate his worth and
greatness, and I am not sure that a very ready confession of
the fact that very few of us are able to truly appreciate the
greatness of Mr. Whitman in the industrial world and as a
citizen is a confession of weakness on our part but rather a
confession of strength, for in that confession may we not go
back to our various vocations determined to apply all the
systems and principles of efficiency that will make us better
men in whatever calling we are, and above all better citizens
of our state and our nation. (Great applause.)

204 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The Toastmaster. — I hark back to my original sugges-
tion of the three great interests represented here : Whitman,
capital, labor. The greatest of these is labor.

Lawrence is a very beehive of industry. What Mr. Whit-
man's relations are to the laboring population of that city and
to that whole neighborhood who shall tell us so well as its
chief magistrate, Mayor Cahill ? (Applause.) Mayor Cahill
is one of the young leaders of our Massachusetts munici-
palities. (Applause.)

hon. john t. cahill.

Mr. Toastmaster, Benefactor of Lawrence, and
Gentlemen : In rising to address you I feel very much like
saying what little Willie said his Ma was accustomed to say
in the morning. One evening as the nurse was about to put
Willie to bed, having prepared him, he jumped immediately
into bed and covered himself up with the bed clothes. The
nurse said, "Willie, haven't you forgotten something?"
He said, "No, nurse, I don't know of anything I have for-
gotten." " Why," she saicl, "you have forgotten to say your
prayers." Willie said, " Oh, yes. And what prayer shall I
say, nurse ? " She said, " Say that pretty little prayer that 1
taught you, 'Now I lay me down to sleep.'" And Willie
said, " I don't want to say that prayer, nurse. I'd rather say
the one Ma says in the morning when I go in and wake her up."
The nurse said, "What does she say, Willie?" "Well,"
he said, " she puts her arms over her head and says, ' Oh,
Lord, have I got to get up? ' " (Laughter and applause.)

Whenever I am invited to speak in Boston I always come
prepared, because I never wish to have the city of Lawi-ence
subjected to such an arraignment as I once heard the Athens
of America subjected to. A friend from the other side came
over here and passed through different cities of our country,
and one night at a club in London after his return home he
made the remark that the Americans did not use very good
English. An American who was present said, " Did you go
to Boston ? " " Oh," said he, " it was in Boston that I formed

IN HONOK OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 205

my opinion." (Laughter.) The American said, " Would you
please give me an example of what was said in Boston that
led 3^ou to believe that they do not speak good English in
the Hub of tlie Universe?" and he replied, " Why, I heard a
man, a very intelligent appearing man at that, say, ' Where
am I at?'" (Laughter.) The American said, "Well, what
would you say?" He said, "I would say 'Where is my
'at ? ' " (Renewed laughter.)

In the valley of the Merriniac we are noted principall}^ for
two things : the flow of cloth from the loom and the flow of
eloquence from the vocal cords. I wish to curtail the flow
of eloquence to-night, so I have assigned to myself, notwith-
standing the courtesy of the Toastmaster, five minutes instead
of ten.

A GREAT VICTORY OF PEACE.

I have the honor to represent here this evening the city of
Lawrence, and the pleasure to state that the great hive of
industry on the banks of the Merrimac owes everything to
the brains, energy, and confidence of men who pushed for-
ward, regardless of obstacles, to the goal of all human
endeavor — success. Success attained varies in value. The
breached and battered walls of capitulated Fort Sumter spelled
success. The riddled "Alabama," sleeping beneath the sea
off Cherbourg, spelled success. The flag of the rammed and
sunken " C'umberland " floating at the main mast-head above
Virginia's waters marked success. The fleets, acting under
the direction of an eminent son of Massachusetts, achieved
a grand success at Santiago and Manila Bay. They were
the successes of war, and success in war means destruction —
destruction justified by necessity perhajis, but begotten of
wrath nevertheless. Glory and fame halo tlie deeds of the
warrior and history records the successes and failures of
imperators and captains who slay to save a cause more or less
worthy, but there are successes unalloyed with the element
of destruction. They are the successes of peace, successes
creative in essence and consummated without discord, such
as those which have come alter years of earnest endeavor
and prolonged exertion to him in whose honor we are

206 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL JVIANUFACTURERS.

assembled here to-night. In contemplating his work I am
reminded of a great, intensely humane, military commander
who attended to the manifold duties of his station so well
that everything worked with precision and everything
accomplished revealed the master mind.

" In and out of whose tent all day long to and fro
The messengers come and the messengers go
On missions of mercy, on errands of toil
To tell how the sapper contends with the soil ;
In the terrible trench ; how the sick man is faring,
In the hospital tent, and combining, comparing, constructing,
Within, moves the brain of one man moving all."

The brain of one man moving all ! How often have I
thought, while viewing the Arlington Mills in operation,
that behind all the concentrated energy a master mind was
at work : the constructor, the builder, the producer, the
architect, not only of the factory, the industrial plant, but
of hundreds of homes erected and maintained by recom-
pensed labor, in a locality which was only a pasture land
until he came to vivify and vitalize it. (Applause.)

" WILLIAM THE GOOD."

I was raised within a stone's throw of the Arlington
Mills. I have been familiar for years with the name of
Whitman, and the tribute I come to pay to-night is from the
heart, the tribute of the burgomaster to one who merits
praise because of good deeds and honest endeavor. I am the
bearer of a message, as well as a tribute. The tribute is mine
straight from the heart. The message is from the people I
have the honor to represent. (Applause.) The people of
Lawrence have one desire and one hope expressed in three
little words of the utmost importance — work and wages.
They ask nothing more ; the}^ expect nothing less. There
are fifty-four different nationalities in the melting pot by the
Merrimac ; in the matter of tongues Lawrence is a Babel.
There is one great essential for peace and prosperity —
employment. Whatever may be the aims and aspirations of
other localities this may be set down as a fact : Lawrence

IN HONOR OF WILLIAINI WHITMAN. 207

wants work and plenty of work. We have no natural
resources other than our water power ; our very life depends
on the success of our industrial establishments and the
energy and intelligence of men interested in the textile
industry.

It is but natural that we should have a strong affection
for such a man as William Whitman, who not content with
developing the Arlington Mills has given other evidences of
his good will towards our municipality and whose latest
addition to our wealth, the Merino Mill, would be sufficient
to entitle him to the appellation " William the Good " were
he not already good and great. (Applause.) I feel that
there must be much good in Lawrence — that her destiny is
greatness — when good men have confidence enough in the
municipality to invest millions and millions more within her
confines. I hope to see the day when the names of her great
benefactors shall be engraved in the Book of Gold. Among
them future generations will be sure to find the name of our
friend and patron, the constructive genius, William Whitman.
(Great applause.)

The Toastmaster. — After five minutes of eloquent
manuscript what would we not give for five minutes of
eloquent extemporaneous speech? Eloquence is as natural
to an Irishman as the glitter of a dewdrop to the morning-
sun. (Applause.)

Do not forget that this splendid meeting is due for its
success largely to the committee of arrangements, the chair-
man of which is your associate member, Mr. Hopewell.
He is not only going to give us a few words, but he is going
to do what no other orator has done, accompany them with
illustrations. (Applause.)

MR. JOHN HOPEWELL.

Mr. Toastmaster : The next on the program will jDroba-
bly be a surprise to our friend Mr. Whitman. We propose to
give you an optical demonstration of a part of our friend's
work.

208 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

It is often asserted that all creations in the world are
mental. A brick mill does not have much mental character
to the ordinary looker on, j^et no mill was ever built that was
not first conceived and built in some fertile and active brain,
and in nearly all its perfection was clearly marked out before
a brick was laid. The little that one man can personally
accomplish in these days would scarcely make a ripple on the
surface of commercial trade.

The inventive and initiative mind of a well balanced man
is the greatest blessing to mankind, and especially to its pos-
sessor if he has faith in himself and the necessary courage
and ability to execute his ideas in a business project. To
draw men to him, to inspire them with his views and aspira-
tions, his hope, courage, and steadfastness, in good times and
bad, he must be a leader of men. Such is our friend Mr.
Whitman. In fact, such a man must be an optimist, an
idealist of the best type, also a seer who can forecast the
future and allow no circumstances to discourage him. Few
men have these requisites in as large a degree as our friend
Whitman.

We will now show you on the canvas some lantern slides
which will illustrate what Mr. Whitman has been able to
accomplish in upbuilding the woolen and cotton industries of
our Commonwealth, — cotton and woolen, — and in building
towns and cities in waste places, giving work, the greatest
blessing to mankind, to thousands of people.

Some have criticised, but we have met to praise and to give
credit to his strength of character while he is still alive.
This is better than erecting monuments to him after he is
dead. It is a small reward to him, and will do us more good
than it will him.

So we honor and greet to-night one who had confidence to
build the mills that you will see and faith to believe that the
country would sustain him and his successors in manufac-
turing the textiles, cotton and woolen, needed by the great
American people.

Mr. Whitman is president of five of probably the largest
industries in the world, and we will present to you on the

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 209

canvas pictures of these mills. First come the Arlington
Mills, with a capital of -18,000,000. Then come the Manomet
Mills, with a capital of $2,000,000, the Nashawena Mills,
with a capital of $8,000,000, the Nonquitt Spinning Com-
pany, with a capital of $2,400,000, the Monomac Spinning
Company, with a capital of $750,000, — a grand total of
$16,150,000, with employees numbering 13,625, with a
weekly wage of $121,750 and an annual payroll aggregating
$6,331,000. The machinery in the above mills will consume
annually 75,000 bales of cotton and 60,000,000 pounds of
wool, and as we said before, the payroll is $6,000,000.

When I read a few of these figures to one of the leading
citizens of Boston recently, he said, " Is that true ? Well,
that's goinof some." We think it is going some. It reminds
me of a story of a man who was trying to sell some horses.
He brought out one that was coming, another that had been.
He said, " Gentlemen, I want no horse that has been. I want
no horse that is coming, I want an I's-er." Mr. Whitman
is still an is-ev. And now we propose to demonstrate to
you on the canvas what he lias been able to stimulate, guide
and direct in this great Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

(The diners were then shown stereopticon views of the
five mills which Mr. Hopewell had just referred to, a table
showing the number of employees, the payrolls, etc., and a
portrait of the guest of the evening.)

The Toastmaster. — Gentlemen, while this dinner is
given to Mr. Whitman in honor of his retirement as Presi
dent of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, it
is by no means his retirement from business, in which he will
still remain an active and potential factor. (Applause.) I
trust that he will long remain so. Everything points to it.
Though born in Nova Scotia his ancestry had their home in
our own dear Commonwealth, in the near town of Weymouth.
His venerable father, now rounding out one hundred years,
still lives. (Applause.) It is a long lived race. As you

210 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

will see from his picture, he is an eternal youth. I don't
know why it should remind me, but it does remind me of
that very old story of the man who, hearing of a centenarian,
went to his house and finding a venerable personage congratu-
lated him upon his years. The reply was, " Oh, no, it isn't I
that you want to see, it is my father. He is with my son out
in the hay field hard at work." I present to you not the
father, but the son, who is still in the hay field hard at work
(applause), our honored guest of the evening, Mr. William
Whitman. (Three cheers for Mr. Whitman, every one rising.)

mr. william whitman.

Mr. Toastmaster, Invited Guests and Gentlemen :
I find it difficult to put into language an expression of my
feelings on this occasion. I only wish that I deserved the
encomiums given me to-night. It is exceedingly gratifying
to have such an expression of confidence. I remember
many years ago speaking to the then President of the
Arlington Mills, Mr. Joseph Nickerson, whom some of the
older men present remember well. It was in the early days
of the company, when we were struggling. I didn't know
much about the business, I felt uncomfortable and uneasy,
and I said to him, " Captain, are you satisfied with my
work ?" He turned and looked at me and said, " I had not
supposed that you were a little boy that needed to be patted
on the back. If I had not been satisfied I would have told
you so."

My experience teaches me, however, that there is no man,
no matter how strong and self-reliant he may be, who does
not at times appreciate the commendation of his fellows. I
am afraid that it is characteristic of our people to refrain
from giving expression to all that they feel, and to have such
expressions as have been given .to-night touches me very
deeply. As I said before, I only wish that I deserved them.
(Voices : " You do," and applause.) I thank you, gentlemen,
for tendering me such a high compliment, and I thank the
President, the Toastmaster, and the gentlemen who have

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 211

addressed you for their kindly, friendly, and appreciative
expressions.

I regret that the completion of the portrait tendered me by
the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, to which
you, Mr. President, referred in your address, has been delayed
by n)y recent illness and that some friends are disappointed
that it cannot be presented to-night. My grateful acknowl-
edgments for the testimonial will be offered later.

Some friends have suggested that instead of delivering a
formal address this evening it would be more appropriate for
the occasion, and perhaps more interesting to you, if I talked
somewhat informally about my personal experiences in con-
nection with the development of the textile industries. In
complying with this suggestion I must confess to being
oppressed with the feeling that I may not succeed in interest-
ing you, and indulging in personal reminiscences lays one
open to the charge of becoming old.

There are relatively few boys beginning the work of life
so circumstanced that they are free to make choice of a voca-
tion. Necessity compels securing such employment as may
be obtained for a livelihood, without reference to special
fitness for the work. When some great dominating predilec-
tions exist, an industrious and ambitious young man often
succeeds in bursting the bonds of his environment and finds
his natural and therefore most efficient sphere of labor.
Most of us, however, drift through life, and there are conse-
quently more misfits than fits in every vocation.

In order to give evidence as an expert one must qualify as
to fitness. Few men have had quite so varied an experience
in connection with textiles as myself. I have always been
identified either directly or indirectly with them, and my
present work in life as a merchant and manufacturer is
undoubtedly a natural outgrowth of early environment.

My earliest recollections are of the farm upon which I
lived during the first six years of my life. The next six
years' experiences belong about equally to my grandfather's
farm and to my father's village store. On the farm I became
familiar not only with sheep husbandry but with the wool

212 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

manufacture as a household industry for family clothing —
an industry which embraced all the processes used, such as
cleaning the wool, hand carding, spinning, dyeing, and hand-
loom weaving. Memory of the cumbrous hand loom in my
great-grandmother's kitclien, and of the good lady herself
when one hundred years of age engaged in knitting woolen
stockings, is still vivid.

The seaside village store was an excellent training school.
I know of none better for a boy. There one could learn in
a limited but practical way the comparative values of the
products of the factory, of the soil, and of the sea, and
the nature of exchanges. But whether on the farm, in the
village store, or in my home, I was expected to lend a help-
ing hand. The expectation fitted in with my inclinations,
for I think that during my whole life I have enjoyed work.

This training was such that I was delegated to load a
vessel to come to Boston when I was eleven years old, and
was fortunate in obtaining the consent of my mother, who
had perhaps more confidence in me than some others, to
come to Boston alone under the care of the captain. That
was the first time that I saw this beautiful city.

At the age of twelve I left home alone and for the next
two years was employed by a wholesale and retail dry goods
firm in St. John, New Brunswick. During this period I had
the advantage of excellent training, and of varied employ-
ment such as seldom falls to the lot of a boy. First in the
counting room under an accomplished accountant; in addi-
tion to the routine work belonging to an office boy I became
a good rapid penman and quick and accurate at figures.
There was hardly any kind of work about the business that
I did not assist in performing and with which I was not per-
fectly familiar.

When there was no work in the wholesale department in
the spring of 1856 I was transferred to the retail department
and acted as a salesman behind the counter. There I
acquired a knowledge of all kinds of textile fabrics that
were used in that country, all of which were imported from
other countries. In fact, even at that early age I might have

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 213

used the language which Henry Kingsley puts into the
mouth of Mrs. Arnaud :

" From my knowledge of textile fabrics I could hang
mj'self in my stockings dexterously."

Possibly before the evening is over I may be guilty of
some such act.

Little events often change the current of men's lives. In
those days there were no saleswomen. The retail salesmen
were for the most part full grown, highly trained men,
obtained from England, Scotland, and the north of Ireland.
One of these men, without provocation, violently kicked me.
I left the store at once and could not be persuaded to return.
I had determined to come to Boston, and to Boston I came
alone in the earl}'' summer of 1856 at the age of fourteen.
The overt act had clinched the decision.

For the first and only time in my life I solicited employ-
ment and was- fortunate in securing it with the firm of
James M. Beebe, Richardson & Co., then the leading whole-
sale dry goods importing and jobbing firm in the United
States. M}' first work began almost immediately upon enter-
ing the store, but it was found necessary, because I was so
small at that time, to build a platform for me to stand on in
order that I might carry on the work. The firm name was
soon changed to James- M. Beebe & Co. I remained with
the house for about eleven years, or until it went out of
existence, being the last person in its employ. I began as an
entry clerk, but was rapidly promoted from one position to
another until I became confidential clerk and general office
manager.

Some time prior to the close of the Civil War Messrs.
Beebe & Co. retired from the importing and jobbing busi-
ness and engaged in the wholesale dry goods commission
business, becoming the selling agents for several corpora-
tions manufacturing ginghams, prints, delaines, spool cotton,
and woolen cloths, a part of which business was taken over
from the old firm of A. & A. Lawrence & Co. when it went
out of business.

It may be of interest to you to know that from the firm

214 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of James M. Beebe & Co. came many really prominent busi-
ness men. Just prior to my entering their employ Mr.
Junius S. Morgan, who had been a partner, left the firm to
become a partner with George Peabody & Co., the great
American-London bankers. Mr. Levi P. Morton, now living
and an associate on the board of directors of the Equitable
Life Assurance Society, was also a partner of Mr. Beebe
prior to that time. Mr. Eben D. Jordan, to whom I will
refer later, had also been in the employ of Mr. Beebe.
Coming down to more recent times, Mr. Cornelius N. Bliss
was connected with that firm, and the late Mr. George F.
Fabyan also, both of them being in the employ of the firm
when I went there in 1856.

I wish here to express my grateful recognition of the high
character and ability of the gentlemen with whom it has
been my good fortune to be associated during my business
life. They were and are gentlemen who bring honor to the
name of the American manufacturer and merchant.

In the early part of 1867 I formed a connection with
Robert M. Bailey & Co., who were then selling agents of
the Arlington Woolen Mills, the name of which was after-
wards changed to Arlington Mills. At about the same time
I was elected to the treasurership of this corporation. When
the honored Mayor of Lawrence addressed you to-night it was
with great difiiculty that I could realize it to be possible that
I became treasurer of that corporation before the gentle-
man was boi'u. The original mill had been destroyed by
fire the previous year and the new mill was in course of
construction. It was intended for a shirting flannel mill,
but the owners decided to engage in the manufacture of
women's and children's dress goods made with cotton warp
and worsted filling. I have been connected with this concern
in various capacities from that time to the present with the
exct-ption of about six months in 1869. During that inter-
mission I became part owner of a mill at Ashland, N.H.,
manufacturing fancy shirting flannels. It was not until
1888 that I engaged in mercantile business on my own
account. On the first of January of that year I entered the

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 215

firm of Harding, Colby & Company, and my firm became the
selling agents of the Arlington Mills. A little more than a
j'^ear later Mr. Colby died, and in December, 1889, the firm
was succeeded by the firm of Harding, Whitman & Compan}-,
of which I became the managing partner, and on July 1,
1909, it was succeeded by the present firm of William
Whitman & Company.

In 1895 I became interested in the cotton manufacturing
in New Bedford, beginning with the Whitman Mills and
continuing with the Manomet Mills, Nonquitt Spiiniing
Company, and Nashawena Mills.

In 1910 I engaged in building a worsted and merino spin-
ning plant in Lawrence which is just completed. It will prob-
ably be incorporated under the title of " Monomac Spinning-
Company."

In 1909 I became interested in building a cotton mill at
Calhoun Falls, S.C.

The chairman of 3'our committee has exhibited upon the
screen nearly all the different enterprises with which I have
been and am now connected. The firm of William Whitman
& Company act as selling agents for all of the mills shown
upon the canvas. It is generally supposed that I have been
exclusively connected with the woolen manufacture; as a
matter of fact, my interests in the cotton manufacture are
greater than those in woolen.

So much by way of qualification for talking to you with
some degree of familiarity with the development of the textile
industry during the past fifty-seven years. This slight sketch
exhibits a rather striking contrast to recent pictures that have
appeared in some public prints.

In 1856 Boston was the center of the cotton and wool
textile industries of the country, both as to the manufacture
and as to distribution. It also enjoyed the prestige of being
the most prominent of the dry goods jobbing cities. Twice
a year from ever}^ quarter buyers came to it. During the
busy seasons the packing rooms of my employers were filled
with miscellaneous goods for shipment. Traveling salesmen
were not then employed.

216 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The buyers of that day or their successors have long since
outgrown their original sources of supply in textiles, and
their business greatly exceeds in magnitude that of those of
whom they formerly bought. The methods of distribution
have been revolutionized. Boston failed to maintain its
supremacy as a manufacturing and distributing center
because its capital and efforts were turned to other channels
of development which, unfortunately, were regarded with
greater favor than the textile business. During the last
decade, however, a marked change favorable to textile indus-
tries has taken place in the attitvide of Boston investors.

At that period the woolen industry has been established
for more than half a century, the factory system of the cotton
industry for more than forty years and some minor branches
of the silk industry had been in existence for many years.
The manufacture of ingrain carpets began as early as 1842,
of Wilton, Brussels and tapestry carpets in 1845, all under
the patents of that most remarkable genius, Mr. Erastus B.
Bigelow. The successful manufacture of ginghams with
power looms was established as early as 1850 at the Lancaster
Mills under Mr. Bigelow's supervision, though begun a few
years earlier, but the development of textile industries, how-
ever, had been comparatively slow and had been confined to
the coarsest and commonest kinds of goods.

The following is an interesting statement in the " Boston
Transcript " of March 3, 1869, of an interview with Mr.
Eben D. Jordan, founder of Jordan, Marsh Company, one of
the ablest and most progressive merchants of his time ;

The firm has now been in business more than eighteen
years. When they began there were but one or two articles,
outside the plain, cotton fabrics, in their trade that were not
obtained from abroad. Now, but one-tenth of their entire
stock yearly sold passes through the Custom House and that
is composed of the highest range of goods not sought for by
the people at large. Mr. Jordan's experience, gathered from
repeated visits to distant markets, leads him to confidently
believe that ere long America will depend entirely upon her
own industry to clothe the masses of her people and will
eventually command her share of the trade of the world.

IN HONOR OF WILLLAM WHITMAN. 217

A large part of this prophecy has been abundantly verified.
America now out of her own industry does clothe the
masses of her people. Although statistical information is
necessarily inadequate to any proper description of growth,
yet the following summarized statement, compiled from the
census report of 1905, conveys some comprehensive idea of
the development in textiles from 1860 to 1905.

The total capital invested in the United States in com-
bined textiles in 1860 was $150,080,852 and the total value
of the products was $214,740,614.

The total capital invested in the United States in combined
textiles in 1905 was 11,343,324,605 and the totixl value of
the products was $1,215,036,792. In 1905, therefore, the
capital employed was about nine times that employed in
1860 and the value of the products in 1905 was about six
times the value of those in 1860. From 1905 to 1910 the
increase has relatively been very much greater than at any
corresponding period.

A few illustrations may better serve to show the magni-
tude of the growth of textile industries. Our annual pro-
duction of raw cotton has more than quadrupled since 1856.
It is now about two-thirds of the commercial supply of the
world. Our annual consumption of raw cotton is now
about seven times the quantity consumed in 1856, and is
greater than that of any other country, and equivalent to
about the consumption of Great Britain and Germany com-
bined. There are in operation in our country to-day about
six times as many cotton spindles as there were in 1860,
or about one-fourth of the world's total number of cotton
spindles.

The most noteworthy development has been in the cotton
growing States. In 1860 there were in operation in those
States only 324,052 cotton spindles. These have increased
to 10,801,494 spindles in 1910 — a number about thirty-three
times as large as that of 1860. These cotton growing States
use in their manufacture more cotton than do the New Eng-
land States, and about one-half of all that is used in the
United States. Massachusetts has rather more than two and

218 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

one-half times as many spindles as any other State, and uses
about two times as much cotton. South Carolina ranks
second in number of spindles and third in amount of cotton
consumed. North Carolina ranks third in number of spindles
and second in quantity consumed. Nearly all of the won-
derful development of the cotton manufacture in cotton
growing States has taken jjlace in the last twenty years.

Possibly no more striking illustrations in the development
of the cotton manufacture in New England, within my
experience, are to be found than in the cities of Fall River
and New Bedford. In 1856 there were only four small cot-
ton manufacturing companies in Fall River, established
respectively in 1814, 1822, 1825, and 1853, with a com-
paratively small number of spindles. To-day this is one of
the two largest cotton manufacturing cities in the country.

New Bedford furnishes even a more striking example.
The evolution from the whaling to the cotton industry
began in that city in 1847, when the Wamsutta Mills was
incorporated. In 1856 this corporation had only 80,000
spindles and 600 looms, and not until 1860 was there an
increase of 15,000 spindles made. It was not until 1870
that there was further mill construction begun in that cit}-.
There are now about 3,000,000 spindles in New Bedford.
The great increase has been during the past sixteen years,
and naturally I feel some degree of satisfaction in the fact
that my associates and myself have been the means of con-
tributing during that period about one-sixth of the entire
spindleage of that city. (Applause.)

It is questionable whether during the past fifty-five years
there have been any inventions involving new princij^les of
textile machinery. The improvement in the practical effi-
ciency of the machinery, however, has been marvelous. The
speed of the cotton spinning spindle has been increased from
about 5,000 to say 9,000 turns per minute — I am not speak-
ing of excessive speeds but ordinary speeds — and the speed
at which all other cotton machinery is operated has been
correspondingly increased.

In 1816 in Waltham a weaver on a plain cotton cloth

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 219

operated only one loom at a relatively low speed. I have
been unable to determine the exact speed, but probably
somewhere from 80 to 100 picks per minute. In 1850 a
weaver operated four looms at a much higher speed. When
the Northrop automatic loom was introduced in 1895, a
weaver operated eight looms at a still higher speed. To-day
a weaver operates from sixteen to twenty-four automatic
looms on ordinary cotton cloth, the number of looms and the
speed at which they are run varying according to the width
and the character of the cloth. In a paper carefully pre-
pared by Mr. E. B. Bigelow in 1851, — and, by the way, I
look upon Mr. Bigelow as one of the greatest men that ever
lived in Massachusetts, — it was stated that the number of
spindles per operative in a new gray cloth weaving mill at
that time was fifty-nine ; in an up-to-date mill making similar
goods, I consider 125 spindles per operative to be a fair
number.

It may be said that improvements in machinery and
various mechanical devices connected with it and in connec-
tion with mill engineering skill, have made the labor of
operatives in cotton cloth three times as efficient in 1911 as it
was in 1856, and yet all these inventions and improvements
were fought by the laboring man, fearing that they would
drive him out of employment.

In the early days of our textile industries we were told
that because of the quality of the water, of climatic and
other conditions, it would not be possible for American
manufacturers to bleach, color, or print their fabrics as well
as it was done abroad. Such statements were generally
believed, and naturally accentuated existing prejudices
against American fabrics.

What has been accomplished must have disappointed these
unbelievers. Witliin a few days one of the oldest and best
merchants in this city, an importer of foreign goods all his
life, declared to me in emphatic terms that our fine cotton
fabrics of to-day, in perfection of manufacture, in design, in
the bleaching, coloring, printing, and finishing were equal to
any goods of similar grade produced in any part of the world.

220 NATIONAL, ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

This is true, however, not only of cotton fabrics, but equally
so of textiles made of wool, or of silk, or of combinations of
cotton, wool, and silk.

The last half century has witnessed a marvelous growth in
the domestic silk manufacture; greater relatively than in anv
of the other textiles. One cannot go into details, but this
growth can be gauged by the quantity of raw silk consumed
in 1860, viz., 462,965 pounds, with the quantity consumed
in 1909, viz., 20,270,000 pounds. Therefore the eon-
sumption in 1909 was more than forty-three times the
quantity consumed in 1860, or more than one-fifth of the
world's production. The United States ranks second only to
China in the quantity of raw silk consumed. In addition to
this, there was consumed 882,000 pounds of artificial silk, a
comparatively new product developed under foreign patents
issued as late as 1885. The foreign value of the imports of
raw silk for the calendar year 1910 was $71,136,698.

The art of wool manufacturing in its present varied and
attractive aspects is altogether a modern development in the
United States. Up to the Civil War the industry had found
only a precarious foothold, and all branches of the industry
at that time were confined to what appear to us now as cheap
and inferior goods. Dr. John L. Hayes in a speech delivered
in Philadelphia in 1865, said : " To our shame be it spoken
all our flags are grown, spun, woven, and dyed in England.
On the last Fourth of July the proud American ensigns
which floated over every national ship, post, and fort, and
every patriotic home flaunted forth upon the breeze the
industrial dependence of America on England." In this
address he spoke also of an association of patriotic ladies
formed in Washington in the gloomiest days of the Civil
War, who pledged themselves to wear nothing but American
fabrics and were surprised and mortified to discover the
extremely meager range of suitable dress goods of native
production.

Nathaniel Stevens began the manufacture of wool flannels
— this is a bit personal — in North Andover in 1813, with a
small mill containing four sets of forty-inch cards. Abraham

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 221

Marland also began the manufacture of flannels and blankets
at about the same time.

Grandsons of Mr. Stevens are present to-night, and they
now operate the mills established by their grandfather,
although producing different goods, and greatly enlarged.
A great-grandison of Mr. Marland is also present. He is the
Treasurer of the Arlington Mills, a corporation engaged in
manufacturing the class of goods which his great-uncles were
the first in the country to undertake.

The following abstract of Mr. Marland's testimony before
the Committee on Manufactures at the first session of the
twentieth Congress on January 23, 1828, is interesting and
instructive as showing the condition of the industry at that
time :

He stated that the pounds of wool manufactured by him
were :

1825 34,000 lbs.

1826 34,000 "

1827 51,000 "

and that in 1825 one-half of the wool was imported ; in 1826,
one-fourth ; and in 1827 none was imported. It is interesting
to note, by way of comparison, that the Arlington Mills could
now comb in four hours the quantity of wool which Mr.
Hobbs' great-grandfather manufactured in one year. The
capital invested was $42,000, but part of the property was
leased. The sales in 1827 were about $40,000. The number
of hands was 70 ; the men earned $6 per week ; the women
$2.25 to $2.50 per week ; boys and girls 8 to 12 years old
$1.50 per week. The hours of labor were 72 per week ; now
they are 56, soon to be 54. In Mr. Marland's testimony he
speaks of the fact that no worsted goods were made in the
United States and that the English attempted to keep the
sheep that grew " combing wools " exclusively at home.

The worsted branch of the woolen industry in our country
had its origin in 1845 at Ballardvale, Mass. The first goods
to be manufactured were an imitation of the French muslin
delaine but using a cotton warp instead of a worsted warp.
The attempt was made by Mr. John Marland in a limited

222 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

way. The wool used was combed by hand. The under-
taking proved a failure, but in 1853 the first Pacific Mill was
built for the avowed purpose of manufacturing worsted dress
goods for women's wear, and more especially for the manu-
facture of cotton warp muslin delaines, which were then
being extensively imported into the United States from Great
Britain. To this corporation belongs the honor of importing
the first wool combing machine into this country, the impor-
tation being made in 1853 and the manufacture of the goods
beginning in 1854. This same machinery had been used,
however, in England for five or ten years prior to this period.
The Pacific Mills imported six Lister combing machines, and
the first goods that were produced were printed by printing
machines, at that time a departure from the block system
of printing that had been in vogue. The first treasurer of
the Pacific Mills was Mr. Jeremiah S. Young, who had
been previously associated with Mr. John Marland. He was
a brother-iTi-law of Mr. Marland and a son-in-law of Mr.
Abraham Marland. From this small beginning the city
of Lawrence has become the greatest wool combing city in
the United States. It is estimated that its present combing
capacity is in excess of 135,000,000 pounds of greasy wool
per year.

The class of women's dress goods then maniifactuied has
long since given way to goods of an entirely different charac-
ter, showing a great advance in the art. The women's dress
goods and goods of similar character now manufactured in
the United States are in every respect equal to the best
productions of similar grades of any country, and in many
respects they are vastly superior. There is hardly any ser-
viceable article of woman's wearing apparel that is not the
product of American looms. These products are not only
more serviceable but cheaper than foreign goods.

The greatest development in the woolen industry, however,
has been in the production of what are known as worsted
fabrics for men's wear. It is somewhat difficult to fix the
exact date when American manufacturers began the making
of such goods, but it was at some time subsequent to 1867 —

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN. 223

subsequent to the time when I became treasurer of the
Arlington Mills — and undoubtedly they were produced
almost simultaneously b}^ two or three different manufac-
turers.

From the very beginning of the manufacture of worsted
men's wear goods it has been predicted that such fabrics
would diminish in popularity, but as a matter of fact with
each succeeding year for more than forty years they have
become relatively more and more popular, and have displaced
to a large extent woolen fabrics that had been previously
made. It does not follow, however, that what are known as
worsted fabrics will displace what are known as woolen
fabrics, because in the very nature of things many classes of
worsted fabrics fail to meet requirements which can be suc-
cessfully met with what are known as woolen fabrics. Each
branch of the woolen industry has its proper functions and
opportunity. Tlie future development of all branches of the
industry will be governed by the character of the wools
produced incident to the best methods of sheep husbandry.

The wool combing machine almost universally used in the
United States is known as the Noble combing machine. It
was invented and put upon the market very soon after the
Lister comb, and has practically displaced it. The first
machine was brought into this country, I think to Philadel-
phia, in 1867. This combing machine has been improved
from time to time so that it can comb to equal advantage all
classes of wools, and has practically changed the classification
of wools, for the short as well as the long wools can be
combed by the machine. The growth of the combed wool
industry has necessitated the combing of what has been
known from the beginning of the industr}'' in this country as
fine clothing wool, so that the distinctions of clothing and
combing wools have lost much of their former significance.

The wastes and by-products that come from the combing
wool industry are best adapted to be worked up in what is
known as the carded industry.

No invention within the last one hundred years has done
so much to revolutionize the woolen industry, and to

224 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

improve its character, as the wool-combing machine, and this
applies to every branch of the industry — to wearing apparel
of men, women, and children, and to all fabrics for furnish-
ing and decorative purposes. And the cotton comb in later
days has accomplished for cotton the same results that the
wool comb has accomplished in wool.

It is evident that the trend of the whole textile manu-
facture is toward finer and lighter weight fabrics, this with-
out regard to the nature of the materials used. Not only
this, but with every year the demand for better goods
increases. Goods that were salable when I became interested
in manufacturing would not be salable now. The cost of
making up garments has a marked influence upon using
better materials. Of course there are exceptional cases and
exceptional periods, but it is recognized that it is cheaper for
the consumer to buy better cloths for garments or garments
made of better cloths. They are handsomer in appearance,
more serviceable in wear, and therefore cheaper in the end.
I know that the opposite of this has been exploited in the
press and has been generally believed, and particularly so in
reference to woolen and worsted fabrics, but what I state to
you is the truth and is confirmed by the preliminary report
issued a few weeks ago by the Bureau of the Census. The
American people are wearing better goods than ever before.
(Applause.)

I have presented a most incomplete and imperfect sketch
of fifty-five years of textile development, but the proprieties
of the occasion have necessitated many limitations.

The textiles of to-day are more than necessities. Were we
to look upon them only as such we should fail to realize their
value. Were clothino- confined to the absolute necessities of
covering the body and securing warmth but little more would
be required than has been the heritage of man from time
immemorial. The advance in the art of textile manufacture
has brought within the reach of the masses of our people the
enjoyment of comforts, adornments, refinements, and luxuries
which in early days were not obtainable even by the opulent.
They have up-builded home life by making it beautiful and

IN HONOR OF WILLIAJVI AYHITMAN.

225

attractive. The possibilities, not the necessities of Hfe,
stimulate textile production to-day.

I believe in the greatest possible diversification of national
industries, and that any industry in which a unit of labor
will produce as much in our country as in a foreign country
should be encouraged. I believe thit the welfare of our
country will be promoted by the fullest development of textile
industries. I believe also that from their very nature the
prosecution of these and kindred industries appeals especially
to New England skill and enterprise for the employment of
her people. Full employment insures prosperity.

The future is full of hope. The achievements of the past
will prove to be but fore-runners of the greater things to come,
and I hope as long as healtli and strength will permit to con-
tinue to perform my part in this great work.

And now, my friends, in closing permit me to say that I
hoi)e that all of the choicest of God's blessings may be with
you. (Prolonged applause.)

The Toastmastek. — The evening is over.

Mr. Hopewell. — I propose three cheers for William
Whitman.

(The cheers were given enthusiastically, and the gathering
then dispersed.)

LIST OF those present.

Those who were present at the dinner, with others, were

ADAMS, SAMUEL G.
ADIE, ANDREW
ANDERSON, THOMAS F.
AVERY, CHARLES F.
AVEHY, ELISHA L.
AYER, NATHANIEL F.
BABCOCK, FREDERIC L.
BACON, CARL K.
BAER, LOUIS
BAILEY, JAMES R., .Jr.
BAKER, D. I.

LL, THOMAS H.

BARBOUR, WILLIAM
BARCLAY, C. H.
BARRELL, WILLIAM L.
BARRY, CHARLES T.
BARTLETT, GERRY B.
BATEMAN, W. R.
BATES, JACOB P.
BATTISON, WILLIAM J.
BEEBE, JUNIUS
BEMIS, a. FARWELL
BENEDICT, GEORGE W.
BENN, HARRISON

226 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

BENSON, CLARENCE E.
BINNS, JOHN H.
BIRCH, ALBERT
BLISS, H. W.
BLODGETT, ISAAC D.
BODFISH, C. J.
BOOTHMAN, JAMES
BRADFORD, HARRY P.
BRADLKE, ARTHUR T.
BRADLEE, EDWARD C.
BREMER, S. PARKER
BROCK, GEORGE E.
BROWEH, H. V.
BROWN, H. MARTIN
BROWN, JACOB F.
BROWN, S. O.
BULLARD, GEORGE E.
BURGESS. ROBERT
BURR, I. TUCKER
BURTON, JOHN L.
BUTLER, A. C.
BUTLER, WILLIAM M.
BUTTERWORTH, HARRY W.
CAHILL, JOHN T.
CAMPION, RICHARD
CARPENTER, F. H.
CARROLL, V. E.
CHAMBERLAIN, ALBERT H.
CHASE, FREDERIC A.
CHAVE, WILLIAM G.
CHISHOLM, HUGH J.
CLARK, C. H.
CLARK, FREDERIC S.
CLARKE, ALBERT
CLEMENS, JAMES
CLEXTON, THOMAS J.
CO BURN, JAMES E.
COCHRANE, JOHN
COGGESHALL, JOHN W.
COGSWELL, GEORGE S.
COLEMAN, CORNELIUS A.
COOK, EDWARD H.
CORDINGLEY, W. R.
CORR, PETER H.
COUSENS, LYMAN M.
COX, ARTHUR M.
CRIMMINS, THOMAS A.
CROSS, C. F.

CROSS, EDWARD M.
CROSS, JAMES F.
CROWE, THOMAS F.
CUMMINGS, WILLARD H.
CUMNOCK, A. G.
CUMNOCK, J. W.
CURRIER, ANDREW J.
CURRIER, WILLARD A.
CURTIS, LOUIS
GUSHING, LIVINGSTON
CUTLER, GRANVILLE K.
DAMON, JOS. N.
DANKER, DANIEL J.
DAVIS, CHARLES B.
DAVIS, LIVINGSTON
DAVIS, PHILIP A.
DAY, FRANK A.
DAY, WILLIAM A.
DEARING, FRANK H.
DE NORMANDIE, PHILIP Y.
DEXTER, HENRY C.
DOAK, JAMES G.
DONALD, DOUGLAS
DONHAM, WALLACE B.
DOOLEY, WILLIAM H.
DORR, E. H.
DOTY, GEORGE H.
DRAPER, CLARE H.
DRAPER, EBEN S.
DRAPER, GEORGE A.
DUMAINE, FREDERIC C.
DUNCAN, ALBERT GREENE
DUTCH ER, FRANK J.
DYSART, ROBERT J.
EAGLES, HENRY H. T.
EDDY, A. H.
EHRLICH, ADOLPH
EISEMANN, JULIUS
ELLIOTT, A. W.
EMERSON, HENRY D.
EMERSON, MILLARD F.
EMERY, ALLAN* C.
EVERETT, HENRY C.
FABYAN, FRANCIS W.
FAIRBANKS, CHARF-ES F.
FARNSWOKTH, WILLIAM
FARWELL, JOHN W.
FENNO, JOHN A.

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN.

227

FILLEBROWN, C. B.
FIRTH, WILLIAM
FISH, CHARLES H.
FISLER, JOHN
FITCH, EZRA C.
FITCH, LOUIS H.
FLATHER, FREDERICK A.
FLETCHER, H. H.
FORSTMANN, JULIUS
FOSTER, HAMILTON S.
FOYE, E. ELMER
FREEMAN, FRP^DERIC W.
FRENCH, GEORGE
GARDINER, ROBERT H.
GARDNER, ARNOLD C.
GARDNER, WILLIAM B.
GASTON, WILLIAM A.
GILL, A. E.

GLEASON, ALFRED D.
GLEDHILL, ELI
GOFF, DARIUS
GOFF, I). L.
GOFF, LYMAN B.
GOODALL, GEORGE B.
GORDON, EDWIN A.
GRAHAM, JOHN M.
GRANT, GEORGE P., Jr.
GRANT, LINCOLN
GREENE, EDWIN FARNHAM
GREW, HENRY S.
GRUNDY, JOSEPH R.
HAIG, DAVID A.
HALE, FRANK J.
HALL, WILLIAM E.
HALLETT, NELSON A.
HARDING, L. B.
HARDY, CHARLES A.
HARRIS, GEORGE W.
HARTLEY, HARRY
HARTLEY, THOMAS
HARTSHORN, FLOYD
HARTSHORNE, WILLIAM D.
HASERICK, ARTHUR A.
HASKELL, EDWARD H.
HASTINGS, WALTER M.
HAWES, WILLIAM B.
HAWES, WILLIAM C.
HAYDEN, CHARLES

HEATH, EDWIN L.
HECHT, SIMON E.
HECHT, SUMMIT L.
HECKER, E. M.
HILL, WILLIAM H.
HILL, WILLIAM J.
HOBBS, CONRAD
HOBBS, FRANKLIN W.
HOLMES, STEPHEN W.
HOOPER, JAMES R.
HOPEWELL, FRANK
HOPEWELL, FRANK B.
HOPEWELL, JOHN
HOWARD, CHARLES M.
HOWARD, PRENTISS
HOWE, ALBERT S.
HOWE, FREDERIC W.
HOWE, HENRY S.
HOYE, CHARLES T.
HUMPHREY, OTIS L.
HUTCHINS, C. H.
HUTCHINSON, GEORGE
HUTZ, R.
INGRAM, R. O.
JACKSON, HENRY C.
JEALOUS, H. C.
JEALOUS, VAUGHAN
JONES, ARTHUR R.
JONES, CHARLES II.
JONES, CHARLES W.
JONES, HAYDEN
JONES, JEROME
KEENAN, WALTER L.
KELLER, CARL T.
KENDALL, HENRY W.
KENDALL, 0. F.
KENDRICK, JOHN E.
KENNEDY, GEORGE E.
KESSELER, J. F.
KING, THEOPHILUS
KING, THOMAS B.
KIRKPATRICK, ARTHUR W.
KITCHIN, CHARLES H.
KITCHIN, S. RAYMOND
KNIGHT, JESSE A.
KNIGHT, JOSEPH D.
KOSHLAND, A.
KOSHLAND, JESSE

228 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

KOSHLAND, JOSEPH
KUMMER, CHARLES E.
KUNHARDT, GEORGE E.
LAMONT, WALTKR M.
LANGSHAW, WALTER H.
LAPHAM, LEONARD C.
LASBURY, WILLIAM M.
LASELL, JOSIAH M.
LATSHAW, S. R.
LAWTON, GEORGE R.
LEONARD, CHARLES W.
LIEBMANN, HARRY
LIVERMORE, WILLIAM D.

LOCKwooD, H. Deforest

LOCKVVOOD, THOMAS S.
LONG, JOHN D.
LORD, HENRY G,
LOTHROP, A. E.
LOVELL, ARTHUR T.
LOWE, A. H.

mabbett, george
mabbett, h. e.
McCarthy, jeremiah j.

McCLEARY, JAMES T.
MacCOLL, J. R.
MacDONALD, JAMES A.
McDUFFIE, FREDERIC C.
McKINLEY, WILLIAM, Jr.
MACLAURIN, RICHARD C.
McNEEL, R. W.
McPHERSON, JOHN BRUCE
MAKEPEACE, CHARLES R.
MANNING, FRANCIS H.
MANSFIELD, E A.
MARLAND, WILLIAM H.
MARSTON, JOHN P.
MARTIN, FAY H.
MARVIN, THOMAS O.
MARVIN, WINTHROP L.
MAXWELL, FRANCIS T.
MAXWELL, WILLIAM
MELLOR, B. F.
MERCER, JOHN T.
MERRIAM, A. J.
MERTZ, WILLIAM H.
METCALF, JOSEPH
METCALF, M. A.
MILNE, JAMES T.

MITCHELL, JOHN R.
MORSE, FRANK C.
MORSS, DANIEL D.
MORTON, MARCUS
MUMFORD, GEORGE S.
MURFITT, SAMUEL C.
MUURLING, I. J. R.
NARY, JOHN W.
NELSON, E K.
NUNN, C. P.
NUTTER, GEORGE R.
NUTTER, WILLIAM
O'BRIEN, ROBERT LINCOLN
O'MEARA, STEPHEN
OLLENDORFF, W. W.
PAIGE, EDWARD D.
PAIGE, FRANK H.
PAINE, SIDNEY B.
PALFREY, JOHN G.
PARK, CHARLES H.
PARKER, J. EARLE
PARKER, WALTER E.
PARSONS, EBEN
PATON, A. B.
PATTERSON, A. M.
PATTERSON, F. GORDON
PEARSON, CHARLES H.
PERKINS, F. NATHANIEL
PHIPPS, WALTER T.
PIKRCE, ANDREW G., Jr.
PIERCE, C. EATON
PIERCE, M. J.
PIERCE, WALLACE L.
PITT, ROBERT M., Jr.
PLUNKETT, WILLIAM B.
POLLARD, A. G.
POUSLAND, ARTHUR P.
POWERS, SAMUEL L.
PRENDERGAST, JAMES M.
PRICE, WILLIAM
PUTNAM, GEORGE F.
RAMSEY, JAMES C, Jr.
RICE, EDWARD DAVID
RICE, HARRY L.
RICHARDSON, E. RUSSELL
RILEY, CHARLES E.
ROBBINS, A E.
ROBERTS, C. E.

IN HONOR OF WILLIAM WHITMAN.

229

ROUSMANIERE, JOHN E.
RUSSELL, D. A.
RUSSELL, RICHARD S.
SAGAR, ALFRED
SALTER, R. J.
SAMPSON, THOMAS
SCHOULER, R. S.
SEARLE, CHARLES P.
SEARS, EDMUND II.
SEELEY, A. B.
SHAW, WALTER K.
SHERMAN, F. A.
SHIRREFFS, JOHN
SHUMAN, SIDNEY E.
SHUTTLEWORTH, MOSES L.
SIMPSON, GEORGE W.
SIMPSON, W. P.
SINGLETON, GEORGE F.
SMITH, ABBOTT P.
SMITH, B. F.
SMITH, C. B.
SMITH, GEORGE S.
SMITH, GEORGE W.
SMITH, JAMES T.
SMITH, STUART J.
SNELLING, R. PAUL
STANWOOD, EDWARD
STEVENS, J. P.
STEVENS, MOSES T.
STEVENS, NATHANIEL
STEVENS, RALPH L.
STEVENS, SAMUEL D.
STOCKTON, PHILIP
STONE, A. P.
STUDLEY, ROBERT L.
SWAIN, GEORGE FILLMORE
SWEATT, WILLIAM H.
SWINDELLS, FREDERICK
SWINDELLS, F. W.
SYKES, DAVID A.
THAYER, EUGENE V. R.
THAYER, NATHANIEL N.
THORNTON, GEORGE M.
TODD, ROBERT T.
TODD, WILLIAM O.

TUCKER, PHILIP M.
UNDERWOOD, HERBERT S.
VINTON, FREDERIC P.
WADE, AUSTIN P.
WAKEMAN, WILBUR F.
WALLS, A. B., Jr.
WALWORTH, CHARLES W.
WANGENHEIM, H.
WARREN, NATHAN
WATERMAN, GEORGE H.
WEEDEN, W. W.
WEEKS, A. P.
WELD, STEPHEN M.
WELLINGTON, S. G.
WERNER, FREDERICK C.
WERNER, JOHN C.
WHITIN, G. MARSTON
WIIITIN, HARRY T.
WHITING, HERBERT A.
WHITMAN, ARNOLD
WHITMAN, CLARENCE
WHITMAN, E. E.
WHITMAN, JAMES S.
WHITMAN, JOHN, 3u
WHITMAN, MALCOLM D.
WHITMAN, WILLIAM
WHITMAN, WILLIAM, Jr.
WHITNEY, WILLIAM 8.
WHITTALL, M. J.
WHITTIER, CHARLES W.
WIGGIN, PARRY C.
WILCOCK, EDWIN
WILCOCK, JOHN
WILLETT, GEORGE F.
WILLIAMS, A. M.
WILLIAMS, GARDNER B.
WILLIAMS, JOHN H.
WILSON, H. F.
WING, DANIEL G.
WITHERBY, EDWIN T.
WOOD, JOHN P.
WOOD, OTIS P.
WOOD, PENMAN J.
WOODBURY, C. J. H.
YERXA, HENRY D.

230 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

SCHEDULE K.

PEOTECTION OF WOOL AND WOOLEN MANUFAC-
TURES IN THE UNITED STATES.

By JULIUS FORSTMANN,
President of the Forstmann & Hoffmann Company, Passaic, N.J.

(.4 Former Memher of the German Tariff Commission.')

In view of the widespread interest taken by the public in
the tariff question, and considering the many arguments for
and against Schedule K which have appeared in the press of
the country, I trust I may be pardoned if I summarize the
situation from the point of view of one who has had years of
experience, both here and in Europe, in all stages of woolen
manufacture, from the fiber to the finished fabric.

Of all the questions which writers have tried to treat from
a popular point of view, the tariff is one of the most difficult;
and of all the tariff schedules, the one which, above all others,
requires technical knowledge for its thorough comprehension
is, without doubt. Schedule K. Very few people indeed
have an exact understanding of the subject or fully realize
its economic importance. It is exceedingly difficult to popu-
larize a technical topic and at the same time lose nothing of
academic accuracy, and due allowance must be made for any
one who tries to write for the public upon such a subject.
But all attempts of this kind should be characterized by a
thorough knowledge of the matter under discussion and the
general impression left upon the reader should be correct.

K, as it stands, needs no justification, nor does it deserve
the wholesale abuse and ridicule heaped upon it. It may be
susceptible of improvement, but what under the sun is not?
Judged by its aggregate results, and not by the operation of
this or that clause, the wool schedule is a monument to the
conscientious efforts of many patriotic and honest men. If
conditions have arisen causing some of its provisions to lose
their original effectiveness, the underlying principles are
still true and any amendment of the schedule should be

SCHEDULE K. 231

undertaken only after careful study of those underlying
principles and a full realization of the ultimate effects of any
proposed change. Without entering, then, into an elaborate
defence of Schedule K, let us carefully analyze some of the
commoner arguments brought against it.

THE PLEA FOR FREE WOOL.

First and foremost comes the old plea for free raw mate-
rial, for free wool. Land in the United States, it is averred,
is too valuable to raise sheep. When speaking of the wool-
growing industry of the United States, however, it is a mis-
take to treat the country as a whole, and to offset the
decline in wool growing in the more populous States against
the magnificent strides made in the newer, more unsettled
regions. If the farmers within easy reach of large cities find
it more profitable to turn their attention to other things than
sheep, that surely is no reason why support should be taken
from the States where sheep raising is successful, and where
it can be developed to an even greater extent. The figures
covering wool growing in the United States for the past
fourteen years afford, if rightly interpreted and despite any
assertions of free wool advocates to the contrary, the best
possible proof of the success of the policy of protection.
While the world's wool-growing industry has been prac-
tically at a standstill since the introduction of the Dingley
Bill, the United States have, on the other hand, shown in
this period a substantial increase in the amount of wool
produced.

From year to year, of course, fluctuations have occurred
in the United States as elsewhere, due to heavy snows and
rains, to drought, disease, etc. ; but the net results under the
recent protective tariffs compare favorably with most of the
other wool-growing countries. In the last season or so, to be
sure, a considerable increase has been shown by Australia
individually in the production of wool ; but wool is Aus-
tralia's leading agricultural product, and in view of the fact
that Australia is coming to be the chief reliance of woolen
manufacturers all over the world, it is not to be wondered at

232 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

that such increased demand should stimulate increased pro-
duction. And it will not take much leflection to make
manifest how inexpedient it would be for the United States to
become entirely dependent upon an}- other country for their
supply of wool. Aside from the political phase of the ques-
tion, discussed later in this article, experience has shown
that the wool clip of any particular country can suffer, in
one single season, a most serious diminution. What there-
fore would be the position of the woolen manufacturers of
this and other countries in the event of a repetition, possibly
in a far more serious form, of the drought experienced in
Australia in 1898 and 1899, when the flocks there suffered
severe losses? And what possibilities are suggested, by such
an eventual shortage, of a partial or complete cornering of
the market in wool !

NO FINAL BENEFIT.

At all events the only possible advantage to be hoped for
from abolishing or lowering the duty on wool would be a
temporary cheapening of raw wool to American manufac-
turers, and the lessening of the price of clothes, for the time
being, to the American wearer. These would be the imme-
diate consequences, but the next result would be, as was seen
after the passage of the Wilson bill, greatly to reduce the
output of domestic wool, and to increase the American
demand for foreign wools. And seeing that the supply of
wool the world over is running behind the rapidly increasing
demand, it would not be long before prices would again soar,
and the people of the United States would then find them-
selves confronted with the fact that they had to pay as much
as ever for raw wool, while they were minus the greater part
of their present wool-growing industry and minus all or pait
of the revenue produced from imported wool — an item
now equal to 8 per cent of the total present customs revenue.
In view of the fact, moreover, that the customs duties have
come to form so large a part of the national budget, it is of
interest to inquire what substitute in the way of taxation is

SCHEDULE K. 233

to be proposed by those who favor the abolition or reduction
of the duties on wool and woolen manufactures, and what
assurance we have that the proposed new method, while
destroying or lowering the protection hitherto given
Ameiica's woolen industry, will be any more welcome to the
tax-paying public than the duties of Schedule K.

And suppose the land now used for the raising of sheep
were devoted to the growing of grain, as some would wish,
would the final gain be so great? Grain, in the processes to
which it is subjected before reaching the ultimate consumer,
does not furnish labor to nearly so many people as wool ; and
all the wool grown by the United States is consumed at home,
while none is exported. Besides, one of the first principles
of practical political economy is that a nation should pro-
duce its own requirements in all those agricultural products
which it is capable of raising naturally and advantageously
witiiin its own territory, before it opens its home markets to
imports and seeks to increase the sale of its own products in
foreign countries. The United States, of all nations, are
most favored in this respect. They are, more than any
other country, in a position to suppl}', with a few exceptions,
all their own wants, and in framing a national tariff policy
this fact should never be lost sight of.

After all, the entire aim of protection is not merely to gain
a financial advantage for the protected country, but rather
also to further its industrial freedom. Political and economic
independence go hand in liand, as has been well exemplified
i)i tlie history of the North German ZoUverein, the nucleus
of the present German Empire, with its protective system.
The protection of national industries serves a two-fold pur-
pose— the increase of national wealth, the increase of
national independence. Once for all the idea should be got
rid of that, because a thing is " imported " and comes from
Paris or London, it is for that reason any better than home-
made .goods. The last half century has seen a wonderful
growth, all over the world, of the feeling of nationality, of
pride in one's own country and zeal for its advancement.
This is the era of national unity and national development.

284 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUrACTURERS.

AMERICAN WOOL WORTH PROTECTING.

The sheep industry of the United States is said to furnish
barely enough wool to make a pound of clothing for every
person in the country, while, at the same time, much concern
is expressed for the American who cannot get an all-wool
suit. But all the wool produced in the world available for
wearing apparel is only about eight times the production of
the United States. So assuming that the United States
could monopolize the earth's output of wool, the total supply
would hardly be more than adequate to clothe the people
properly. Imagine then the predicament of Americans if
they were entirely dependent on foreign wool. And in face
of this it is asserted that the wool industry of this country
is not worth protecting !

Of late, it may here be. added, a great improvement has
been noticeable in the quality of American wool, and efforts
are being made on every hand to improve the output and the
method of grading and handling it. Strong arguments have
been presented to the Department of Agriculture urging
the Government to foster, with the same scientific thorough-
ness it has manifested in other directions, the wool-grow-
ing industry of the country. As wool growing in South
America, the only other important source, aside from the
English colonies of Australia, New Zealand and Cape
Colony, for wool used in the manufacture of wearing
apparel, is more or less on the decrease, it does not need
much economic acumen to see that the woolen manufacturers
of the world are largely dependent on England and her
colonies. A successful wool-growing industry, moreover, is
the work not of a day, but of years of a steady, consistent
policy and untiring effort, and the more such a policy is
encouraged the better.

The unrivaled position which England enjoyed, up to late
years, in the woolen trade was the outcome of decades of
persistent protection and careful fostering of wool growing
and woolen manufacture ; and only those ignorant of English
economic history can cite England, in this connection, as an

SCHEDULE K. 235

example of the benefits of free trade. Here again tlie
example of Germany may be cited. Germany's wool supply
now comes, to a very large extent, from the English colonies.
Realizing the importance to the country's woolen industry of
an uninterrupted, adequate supply of wool, the German
Government, with the cooperation of manj^ prominent wool
merchants and manufacturers, is establishing stations in
German Southwest Africa, where the 1 est breeding sheep
will be raised and furnished at low prices to the farmers
there for the improvement and enlargement of their flocks.
Such an enterprise is naturally beyond the power of the
individual farmer and can best be inaugurated and carried to
successful completion under Government auspices. Other
countries, like Japan, are making similar strenuous efforts to
encourage sheep raising for the sake of both the meat and
the wool.

AN INDUSTRY OF SUPREME IMPORTANCE.

Any candid man, then, will admit that the question of pro.
duction of wool in this country has passed beyond the limits
of a mere question of prices — high prices for the farmer and
low prices for the consumer — and has become a problem of
supreme economic importance for the future, and especially
for coming generations. America's dependence on foreign
countries for her wool requirements is fortunately at present
not nearly so great as it might be. But there is no time to
waste and better results can be accomplished now than by
waiting until the situation has become more acute. The
greatest efforts should be made to bring home to farmers the
possibilities for direct and indirect profit which lie in sheep
raising. Anything which will aid the country's wool-grow-
ing industry should receive the enthusiastic support of all ;
and it goes without saying that success in this direction
depends upon proper Government encouragement — national,
State, and local — adequate tariff protection against the
importation of foreign wool — and upon the securing of a
stable home market for the domestic clip. With proper
encouragement and once assured of a settled policy of pro-

236 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

tectioii, there is no doubt that the farmers would take up
with greater confidence and energy the raising of sheep. It
also cannot be denied that a certain responsibility rests upon
the farmers themselves to take advantage of the protection
afforded them in wool growing. And more of them would
devote themselves to this industry if they had any reasonable
assurance of freedom from the disturbance to their business
and attendant financial loss due to threatened or actual
changes in the tariff. No man of sense would build up an
industry upon ground of which he only held a yearly lease,
and from which he could be ejected at any time.

How far the American wool-growing industry can be
seriously affected by any threatened radical tariff legislation
has been seen in the last year or so, when production in
woolen manufacturing was curtailed and consequent buying
of the raw material reduced or altogether suspended owing to
the uncertainty of the political outlook, in consequence of
which the price of American wool, despite the tariff, fell
below tlie price of wool in foreign markets, thus showing
that while an adequate tariff is necessary to protect Ameri-
can wool against undue competition from abroad, the success
of American wool growing is at the same time also linked
firm and fast with the prosperity of American woolen mills.
Instead of seeking, then, to destroy American wool growing
by the removal or lowering of the protection now accorded
it, everything possible should be done by the Government
and by individuals to encourage the industry until it increases
two and even threefold, until it is so strengthened that it
can satisfy the requirements of the rapidly-growing popula-
tion. In this way only, and 7iot by free or less fully protected
wool and woolen manufactures, can the supply be made to
meet tlie needs and interests of the American people ; in this
way, too, we should not only accom[)lish the cheapening of
good woolen clothing for the people, but should also increase
the country's meat supply and thereby diminish its cost.

In this connection it must never be lost sight of that the
United States occupy, with respect to wool growing and
woolen manufacturing, a most unique position among Indus-

SCHEDULE K. 237

trial nations. Whatever may be true of other industries,
neither the American wool grower nor the American manu-
facturer of woolen goods has as yet attained the position
where he can enter international markets and compete for
the world's trade. In the event of stagnation in the home
market, such as has recently been witnessed owing to the
indiscriminate and ill-informed criticisms of Schedule K,
American wool and American woolen fabrics find no outlet
abroad and the consequence is a glutting of the home market
and a resultant demoralization of business. On the other
hand, it cannot be denied that European manufacturers are
wont to relieve a strained situation at home bj^ unloading on
foreign markets, even at a sacrifice, their surjilus produc-
tion— a practice wliich, as can readily be seen, would be
followed still more widely in the event of any lowering of
the tariff by the United States. No more convincing argu-
ment could be advanced for the maintenance of the protective
policy regarding wool and the manufactures of wool ; noth-
ing could lend greater force to the plea for the abandonment
of the senseless agitation against Schedule K. These are
fundamental facts which no student of the tariff should for
a moment lose sight of.

CRITICISMS OF SCHEDULE K.

Aside from those who advocate free wool, there are others
who, while admitting the correctness of the principle of
protection, find fault with its application. And of all the
critics these are no doubt tlie most consistent. It does not
indeed seem logical, from an academic point of view, to put
the same duty on wool which shrinks in the scouring oidy
one-third, as on wool wiiich shrinks two-thirds. But looking
at the matter practically, how is the shrinkage of wool to be
determined exactly for the purpose of scaling the duties?
What niceties of calculation would be necessary in the case
of wools near the dividing line of such classes ! And to
what endless arguments would such a system give rise !

The greatest fault found with the failure to grade wool
duties according to shrinkage is that this system has enabled

238 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the worsted manufacturer, by means of lower prices, to com-
pete the carded woolen manufacturer out of business. At
the same time it is maintained that the present tariff has
increased the cost to the wearer of all cloths. The worsted
manufacturer has at one and the same time, then, lowered
and raised the price of cloth ! Or again, an eloquent plea
for all-wool clothing for the American people is followed by
a criticism of Schedule K because it taxes, as all-wool
products, cloths made only partly of wool, thus excluding
them from the country, or rendering more difficult their
importation. In this respect, certainly, it would seem as if
Schedule K were more consistent than its critics.

It is sometimes asserted that the increase in worsted con-
sumption for the past few years has not been due to any
change in vogue and the tariff is blamed for this change.
But any one familiar with foreign conditions knows that the
tendency towards worsteds instead of woolens has not been
confined to America. England may truly be called the
mother of the cloth industry ; but in England to-day the
worsted industry is supreme, and a^ great part of her require-
ments in carded woolen goods for wearing apparel is
imported from the Continent ! Yet England has no tariff
on wool or w^oolen goods or textile machinery. And it is
largely the influence of England, which is the great authority
on men's wear, that has made worsted goods the fashion in
late years. All over Europe, where there is certainly none
of the alleged discrimination in favor of the one and against
the other, the same thing has been true. Mills which,
twenty years ago, made only carded woolen goods, now pro-
duce three-quarters worsteds and one-quarter woolens.

AD VALOREM DUTIES FAULTY.

The criticism is also made that the schedule of duties on
wool in its various stages of manufacture — tops, noils, yarn
and the finished fabric — has become more or less obsolete.
This is true of the ad valorem duties, which do not, for the
following reasons, accomplish their object. European facto-
ries, even those in the same country and in the same locality,

SCHEDULE K. .239

all operate on a different basis, according to their manage-
ment, methods of calculations, etc., and consequently the
product of one foreign mill can be put upon the market more
cheaply than that of another. It will thus be seen that an
ad valorem duty which would protect American manufac-
turers against the products of one foreign factory would be
inadequate as a means of protection against the output of
another, which, by reason of better organization and superior
facilities for buying raw material, or by a closer system of
cost calculation, could enter the same grade of goods in an
American custom house at a much lower valuation than its
competitors.

In any eventual revision of the tariff, the propriety might
well be discussed of abolishing ad valorem duties entirelv, as
all European countries have done, and adopting a graduated
scale of specific duties, which should compensate and protect,
at each stage of manufacture, the actual expenditure of labor
and capital upon the product in question. Tlie motto for
the advocates of protection should always be : " Protection of
American Labor ! " And in the term labor we must include
all forms of effort, from the man who works for a day's wage
to the man who contributes the brains and energy to direct
the enterprise; we must include also the capital which is the
evidence of labor performed in past years, and by the utiliza-
tion of which the labor of to-day is rendered more effective
and more productive. To safeguard this national labor and
this national capital against foreign competition is the task
of protection.

A TAX ON LUXURIES.

Schedule K is also assailed because it taxes the necessaries
of life and not the luxuries. In the first place it cannot be
admitted a priori that such taxation of life's necessaries is
always so disastrous in its effects as is often claimed. Ger-
many, in looking for a means of protecting its farming inter-
ests against foreign competition, suggested a duty on grain.
It was proposed to tax grain M.S. 50 per 100 kilos, or more
than half a cent a pound. Immediately there was a great

240 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

howl. To tax the daily bread of the people ! But the duty
went through and has been a marvelous success, bringing
prosperit}'^ not only to those who were directly benefited,
but also to those dependent, in greater or lesser degree, upon
the farmer class as their customers. And to this economic
advantage has been added the equally important political
one, namely, that in case of war the country is in a better
position to supply its army and its people with the necessary
means of sustenance.

As a matter of fact, however, the duty on woolen cloths
taxes not the necessaries of life, but rather the luxuries.
Not the everyday clotlies of the people are made dearer, but
rather the more luxurious and, therefore, less commonly used
articles of wearing apparel. In spite of the tariff, competi-
tion in the United States among manufacturers of woolen
and worsted fabrics is very great and the American working
man on the one hand is better and more soundly clad than
his European brother, while, on the other hand, the cost of
everyday clothing here, in comparison with the general scale
of prices and w^ages, is relatively less than in Europe. A
suit for which a working man in the United States pays $10
costs in Europe from $7 to $8 — a difference far more than
offset by the higher wages in this country.

The United States alone consume, reckoning domestic and
imported wools, one-fifth of the world's production of wool
available for wearing apparel ! This despite the fact that
many of the more thickly settled countries of Europe have a
severer climate, where the people would naturally be expected
to wear more woolen clothing. And that the tariff on foreign
wool and manufactures of wool is not too high, is not pro-
hibitive, is amply attested by the steadily increasing volume
of imports in these articles from year to year.

SCHEDULE REVISION MOST UNWISE.

The proposition has been made to change the tariff sched-
ule by schedule. Surely no more inequitable proposal could
be made than to put one class of manufacturers U[)on the
basis of a reduced tariff with regard to their output, while

SCHEDTJLB K. 241

keeping them upon a higher protective basis with respect to
their supplies ; for it must be evident to all that in addition
to raw material (which would, of course, be comprised in the
general schedule under revision and would, therefore, share
in the reduction of that schedule) there still remain the
important items of general supplies and labor. All kinds of
machinery, parts of machinery, oil, and general mill and
office supplies, not being included in the schedule under
revision would remain at the higher level. In the matter of
labor, too, the manufacturers coming under any particular
schedule suffering revision by itself would be at a great dis-
advantage, for while otlier industries enjoying a full measure
of protection would be able to keep up their old wages, the
factories coming under the reduced tariff would be forced to
pay higher wages than their business warranted, or else see
their best help go to other industries. And what is true of
the manufacturer who might be the victim of such discrimi-
nation is also true of all those employed by him ; they would
find themselves, with their income seriously affected as it no
doubt would be by the new order of things, forced, so far as
regards their daily wants, upon the old protected market.
And how would such a schedule by schedule revision work
when applied to certain towns where the whole life of the
community is bound up with a particular industry? Evi-
dently the plan for piecemeal revision of the tariff, even if
only partly followed out to its logical conclusion, shows
itself to be extremely unfair, and therefore undesirable.

THE^TAKIFF AND BUSINESS.

Enough has been said to show tliat the protective system
of America is based, after all, upon true economic principles,
enough to show without question that the amending of the
tariff is not a matter to be undertaken lightly or spasmodi-
cally. No change should be made which would cause any
sudden or violent interruption or readjustment of the business
of the country, or which would discriminate in an unfair way
against any particular industry or industries. The tariff
should cease, once for all, to be the shuttlecock of political

242 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUEBRS.

parties ; the industrial system of the country should no longer
be confronted at every general election with the possibility
of a radical upheaval, paralyzing business for months in
advance. Whenever the need of tariff revision is felt there
should be formed a non-partisan board, composed of experts
from all lines of business, including farmers, merchants, and
manufacturers ; and the recommendations of such a board
should be submitted to Congress for final action. In this
respect also something might be learned from Germany.
There proposed vital changes in the tariff, as well as other
commercial legislation, commercial treaties, etc., are first
subjected to mature consideration by chambers of commerce
and specially appointed committees com[)rising men selected
for their high standing and recognized abilit}^ in their
respective lines, and consequently the details of the various
schedules are not decided upon in a short session of the
legislative body.

In the United States there is not close enough affiliation
between the lawmakers and the real representatives of the
country's business interests. The drafting of laws affecting
business and commerce is left too much to the legislators
themselves, to Government officials or to academic theorists.
The vv^ork of all these, it is true, is very valuable, but in the
last analysis the only reliable judges of the actual business
needs of the country must be the representatives of the
country's organized business interests. And were the cham-
bers of commerce throughout the country made more truly
representative of all business interests, and were a closer
organization of all such chambers perfected and the services
of such an organization systematically availed of in the
framing of all legislation affecting the country's business, less
would be heard of legislation being controlled solely by
special interests.

AN IMPORTANT WORD FROM GERMANY.

In conclusion it may be of interest to note how this ques-
tion is regarded in other countries, especially in those which
have, in recent years, made most progress. It cannot be

SCHEDULE K. 243

doubted that, of all European nations, Germany has, in the
last forty years, shown the greatest economic advancement.
In view of this it seems very appropriate to give here the
following partial translation of an address delivered on
Monday, February 15, of this year, at the meeting of the
German Agricultural Council, by Dr. v. Bethmann-Hollweg,
the Imperial Chancellor, Germany's leading statesman and a
recognized authority on all economic questions, on the subject
of protection of national labor and agriculture :

. . . I am especially grateful to your President for
his frank admission that the piices of many farm products
have, in the past years, reached an unhealthy height, burden-
ing, in a deplorable manner, a great part of the people.
This matter cannot be disposed of with the customary cry of
Agrarian greed for gain. In the last analysis it is a matter
closely connected with the question wiiether German agri-
culture can enlarge, improve, and make more permanent its
industry. I am sure I shall meet with no opposition from
you if I unconditionally answer this question in the affirma-
tive, and if I state, at the same time, that it is a most serious
economic and political duty of our agricultural class to solve
this problem with all the means at their disposal. This they
can only do if they have a lasting and j)owerful protection.
But they must do it I Our economic policy has not only in
view the protection of national labor; it is based at the
same time upon the will and the power of German agri-
culture to make the people, so far as regards their needs for
farm products, more and more independent of foreign coun-
tries. This will must be transformed into action. The
agricultural class must daili/ show itself worthy of the pro-
tection which it enjoys, otherwise the foundation will be
undermined upon which the national structure rests. In the
last number of the "Socialist Monthly Review" (Sozial-
istischen Monatshefte) a writer of the Social-Democratic
party reaches the conclusion, based upon unprejudiced and
apparently expert evidence, that for Germany the proper
Agrarian policy is the one which will increase the domestic
agricultural production to the fullest extent. Such a
removal of economic questions from the fruitless strife of parti/
argument and their return to the domain of sober, economic
calculation, is what we need.

I will not express an opinion whether the agricultural class
would have attained their object if they had not at the out-

244 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

set laid about them, so to speak, with a certain recklessness.
They were at that time badly off, very badly off, and, as is
usually the case, in the fight between free trade and protec-
tion, those who had the least practical experience fought
most bitterly for principles and dogmas. Whoever to-day
regards, impartially and in its general outlines, the picture of
Germany's economic growth must admit, in addition to the
fact of her wonderful development, that in this development
no class has been treated as a step-child, neither agriculture
nor industry nor trade, neither employer nor workman.
Therefore we should see an end on all sides of such argu-
ments as may occur between step-brothers and step-sisters,
but which cannot be permanently tolerated between real
brothers and sisters. I do not know what better proof our
economic policy could give of its usefulness than in its
practical achievements and results ; and what has shown
itself to be true, that we must and will keep.

Germany, it must be remembered, whose area is much
smaller than that of the United States, has a density of
population ten times as great. Yet Germany, while develop-
ing her trade in exports to a most marvelous degree, has been
able, under her tariff policy, to give the fullest protection in
the home market to national industry and to develop, in a
most thorough and scientific manner, her national agricult-
ure, practically up to the last square foot of land available.

There is no doubt whatever that the high prices prevalent
in the United States during the last few years have been due
to the incomplete utilization of the country's resources and
not to their insufficiency. A correct understanding of this
subject must be acquired by all before it is too late ; before,
by means of a false tariff policy, conditions are made worse
instead of better, and before the agricultural and industrial
activities of the country are weakened and its whole
economic forces seriously injured.

A STUDY OF KEMPS. 245

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

TRUK NATURE OF THE DEAD FIBERS WHICH CAUSE SO
xMUCH TROUBLE TO MANUFACTURERS.

(In furtherance of the policy of securing technical articles
of large practical value for the pages of the Bnlletin, there
is published below an illustrated paper on kenips, prepared
by Mr. Howard Priestnian of Bradford, England. It will
be found to be of interest alike to the wool growers of this
country and to the men in charge of American woolen mills.)

It may be true that textile literature has suffered in the
past from over-much (juotation from old and accepted author-
ities. If so, it is a pardonable fault and is only serious when
it perpetuates errors.

Agnosticism and a certain amount of scepticism are all very
well for the critical appreciation of scientific work, but modern
writers may be found who calmly state that facts observed
by others have never been observed at all. And this, to put
it mildly, is not a scientific method of proceeding. There is
even in existence a book which says that wool has no saw-
like serrations! After this we need be surprised at nothing.
This statement is on a par with the opinions of a man who
believes the earth is flat — sim[)ly because he is unable to use
scientific instruments and is too ignorant and conceited to
acce])t the word of those who can.

This paper is not intended to prove that wool scales
protrude like saw teeth when seen in protile, but some
of the photographs used in illustration show very clearly
that such is the fact, and if the fine points do not come out
in reproduction those who are interested may have copies of
the original untouched photographs.

AVhat serrations have to do with kemps may not be very
clear at first sight, but when the reader remembers that ser-
rations are but the edges of the outer scales of wool fibers,
and when he turns to Dr. Bowman's description of kemps,

246 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

he will probably forgive this introduction to the subject,
because Dr. Bowman's description has been wisely accepted
as the trade definition of a kenip from his day to this.

LIKE AN IVORY, OR SILVER, ROD.

He says, " The fiber assumes a dense ajjpearance until even
the cellular character is entirely obliterated," and " the fiber
assumes the appearance of an ivory rod without any internal
structure being visible," and again, " They always resist the
action of reagents used in dyeing, and are apt to remain
xincolored and thus spoil the surface of the fabric."

Every word of this is true. Sometimes it is painfully true,
and not infrequently the truth is rubbed into the practical
man with most unpleasant force. In these days of perfect
photographic plates the camera can be added to the micro-
scope as a means of confirming, in the most palpable way,
many otherwise controvertible facts.

Nothing could be more confirmatory of Dr. Bowman's
words than the first photograph in this series, which shows a

Fig. 1.
Opaque kemj) in sunliglit majjnified 80 times.

A STUDY OF KEMPS. 247

kenip almost round, illumined solely by direct sunlight,
unassisted by lenses or reflectors, for Dr. Bowman says that
sucli a fiber "assumes the appearance of an ivory rod," and
that " the whole surface of the fiber has a silvery appearance
not unlike frosted, silver." My own opinion is that the color
is nearer to that of silver than that of ivory ; certainly in
sheen the fiber strongly resembles frosted silver, but at the
same time there is a suggestion of ivory in the peculiar
opacity of the substance.

The most striking feature of kemps of this class, however,
is their extreme density. No light can penetrate them and
taken by transmitted light they appear absolutely black with
the exception of a narrow margin at either edge. Whether
it is by refraction or for some other cause, the light gets
through the extreme edges of the fiber, in some way as
mentioned by Dr. Bowman on page 163.

The words he wrote on this subject twenty-five years ago
were these : "' Sometimes, however, they are very opaque, as
will be seen in the fiber marked D where the light seems
hardly to penetrate the fiber, although it is refracted at the
thinner edges, whilst the true wool above and below it is
quite transparent to the same light."

A RESULT OF REFRACTION.

My own opinion is that it is refraction and refraction only
that produces the opa(i[ue condition of all the central and
cortical portions of the fiber within the outer scales. I do
not regard the fiber as being solidified in any sense of the
term ; rather it looks as if the density to light were caused by
the attrition or evaporation of the connective material, —
suint, yolk or whatever it may be — within the fiber. Such
evaporation will leave all the spindle-shaped cells with
infinitely small spaces between them instead of being united,
and for that reason they will be impervious to light, just in
the same way that glass becomes impervious to light when it
is reduced to a fine powder.

This agrees perfectly well with what Dr. Bowman says
about the definition which is visible in medullary cells in all

248 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MAN UFAOTUKERS.

fibers which have a tendency to be kempy. The presence of
definite marking in the center of fibers is a sure sign that
they are not of first quality. It is not at all certain that
such fibers have originally any difference of structure from
that of perfect fibers, but it is clear that there is now some-
thing missing in their construction that makes them opaque
in places. When such fibers are mounted in benzine only
(or in a thin solution of balsamin benzine), the volatile liquid
percolates through the whole fiber and fills up the vacant
spaces, making the whole substance as transparent as a
perfect hair.

There can be no doubt about this fact, because under a
power of two hundred or more magnifications, the whole
process can be watched in operation as the benzine insinuates

^ggggm

Fig. 2.
Opaque kemp in transmitted light magnified 80 times.

itself into the substance of the fiber. Exactly the same
thing is true of a large number of kemps, although it is not
true of all. In time they absorb volatile fluids and become
transparent. How they do it is not clear, for the absence of

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

249

the superficial markings is very noticeable. This seems to
confirm Dr. Bowman's contention that the outer scales "seem

Fig. 3.

Greasy Australian wool fibers magnified 50 times. One faulty fiber

showing central marking.

to be completely attached to the body of the fiber." There
is, however, no proof of this fact; and in the case of the
densest kemp I have ever mounted the serrations or saw-like
edges are perfectly clear when seen in profile. This makes
it seem certain that the relative transparency of the edge
is due to some filling-up or cementing of interstices; the
exact reverse of the process which makes the center of the
fiber opaque. I use the words "relative transparency"
advisedly, for the outer part of a kemp is little if any more
transparent than is the whole substance of any good undyed
fiber; and I would call especial attention to the fact that the
edges of the scales on a kemp become visible all over the
surface of that kemp so soon as it is rendered transparent
enough for the upper surface to be illumined by transmitted
liofht.

250 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUEERS.
THE CORE OF THE FIBER.

Any person can try the very simple experiment for him-
self; first examine a particularly obvious ivory white kemp
under the microscope, mounting it only in glycerine or oil.
In reflected light it appears quite solid, opaque and of ivory
consistency, but if the same kemp be left in a mixture of
olive oil and benzine all night, or, if it be boiled in oil, it
will absorb sufficient fat to till up all the infinitely small
spaces within it, and the consequence will be that it will
become transparent. A tiny bubble looks black when seen
under the microscope, and if there remains any air within
the fiber when it is again examined, it is quite likely that
every space where air still lodges will be more or less round
in shape.

Exactly the same thing is true of many fibers that are
certainly not kenips. Something causes the central portion
of the wool to differ in constitution from the rest of the fiber.
Either it is not properly nurtured during growth or it is so
constituted that it parts with an excessive percentage of its
yolk or snint in the washing process. Whatever may be the

Fig. 4.
Roots of skin wool showing faulty central markings.

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

251

reason, the fact remains that when seen under the micro-
scope the center looks black. Sometimes it appears to
contain black bubbles : sometimes it appears to have a solid
core of black. Both effects are due to hollowness. In the
one case the cells are only partially separated by air, in the
other the central cells are either gone completely or they are
so entirely surrounded by air that they refract light as
completely as a hollow tube would do.

Fibers in this condition are often mistaken foi- fibers con-

FiG. 5.

Culored fibers showing pigment cells evenly distributed. Magnified

80 times

taining pigment cells or coloring matter, ])ut this is an entire
mistake. Pigment cells are seldom, if ever, confined to the
central portion but are distributed through the whole sub-
stance of the fiber. They are often distinguishable as spindle-
shaped bodies, but at other times they are so minute as to
give the appearance of homogeneous color to every portion of
the fiber including the outer wall. Moreover, a central core
of imperfect cells often occurs in colored fibers. This may
be filled up with benzine, as already described, but such
treatment in no way affects the real color of the fiber.

252 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The size of kemps is perhaps
account for. The majority of the
times the diameter of the normal
grow. Their length is much less
to one-third the length of other
Kemps that are not broken appear

the most difficult thing to
m are something like three
fibers amongst which they
than normal, say one-half
hairs on the same sheep,
to taper to a point at both

Fig. 6.
Enil of a kemp broken showing spindle-sliaped cells protruding.

80 times.

Magnified

ends. This means that the tip is grown in the usual way ;
then say one inch of abnormal fiber is produced, and finally
just before the fiber is disunited from the skin a portion of
normal transparent hair is produced that has no sign of
central markings. And if this portion is broken the spindle-
shaped cells are easily seen, with a relatively low power,
completely filling the space within the scaly coating of the
fiber.

FLAT KEMPS.

We must now turn to another portion of the subject
which has been once mentioned in literature ; I refer to

A STUDY OF KEMPS. 253

" flat kemps " to which Dr. Bowman called attention in his
first edition on page 160 in 1885. It is a curious fact that
few people in the wool trade are aware that there are such
things. Perliaps this is because Dr. Bowman's statement is
quite true, that they can be dyed if treated with care, and
therefore under certain circumstances they will not show in
the cloth. On the other hand they often do show very badly,
even when tliey are thoroughly dyed, simply because they
are flat and therefore reflect a great deal of light when it
strikes them at the necessary angle. They show just as an
ebony paper knife would show if laid amongst a lot of black
pencils. Each pencil reflects a line of light from its curved
surface, the paper knife reflects a sheet of light from its
whole width.

How these curious fibers have managed to escape attention
for such a lengtli of time is a difficult problem to solve, for
they exist in many low-class varieties of wool. So far as I
have yet been able to discover they are found in far fewer
classes of wool than are ordinary kemps. The ordinary
kemp which is so well known, may be found in fine Austral-
ian and in the finest-fibered Cape merino, in spite of the fact
that kempiness is a usually accepted sign that the breed of
the sheep has not been kept up to a high standard.

It is also well known that the nature and quantity of the
food available for the sheep have a great effect on wool, and
there can be little doubt that if the question were thoroughly
investigated growers would find an answer to the problem of
their growth. Weather also must be taken into account,
for it is well known that fleeces of sheep exposed to very
rough conditions are nearly always kempy ; as are the wildest
Scotch sheep.

In dyed and finished cloth flat kemps generally appear on
the surface in a way that makes even competent manufac.
turers regard them as hemp or grass. They appear lighter
than the rest of the fibers in the piece, but under the micro-
scope there is little difference in depth of color. The
apparent lightness is due to reflection.

Under the microscope they resemble nothing so much as a

254 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

woven canvas hose pipe which is empty and therefore flat.
Their shape prevents all waviness in a horizontal plane, and

Fig. 7.
Flat kemp showing manner of bending. Magnified 30 times.

if they are bent they act exactly as a tape or an empty hose
pipe would do, turning over and forming an angle at each
bend. In this, of course, they differ entirely from normal
wool fibers or from ordinary kemps. It is probably their
erratic shape which deceives so many practical men, and
were it not for the very obvious way in which the scales show
under the microscope it would be extremel}^ hard to identify
them as wool at all.

SUCH KEMPS ARE RARE.

It would, however, be very unfair to allow any reader to
think they are really common, for in a fairly long experience
I have only found them five times (that is to say, in yarn from
four different spinners). In four cases the yarns were woven
into rather low serges and the fibers were most noticeable in
browns, olives, and greens. In navy blue and solid black
pieces, the flat kemps take the dye so effectively that they

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

255

are practically invisible, and in the gray or undyed state are
almost equally difficult to detect.

Some people will contend that it is no use investigating
the problem of their structure when they are obviously an
abnormal product ; but such readers must bear in mind that
these faulty fibers become invisible when dyed to certain
shades, and that if their peculiarities were fully understood
it is quite likely that they might be made invisible in all
colors.

Certain kinds of black dye not only render the flat kemps
absolutely black and impervious to light, but they also alter
them so that they reflect little more light than a single nor-
mal fiber. It is impossible to be al)Solutely certain of the
reason for this in all cases, but there is little doubt that some
black dyes are absorbed so freely by the fillers that the fibers
swell until they are nearly round, and when they are thus
restored to something like their original shape it is clear that

Fi(i. 8.
Flat kemp dyed black. Central portion swollen. Magnified 80 times.

they will reflect little more light than an ordinary wool fiber.
The greatest difficulty in research as to the nature of these

256 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

abnormal libers arises from our ignorance as to their origin,
and if this paper should do nothing else it may help to
interest some buyers and growers, who in their turn may be
able to throw light on the first causes that contribute to the
formation of all classes of kemp and of this small class in
particular.

All we can say at present is that flat kemps are in all
probability a modified form of the common kemp, though
how the two merge into one another is not at present clear.

IN EAST INDIAN WOOL.

Flat kemps first came under my notice in a piece of serge
in 1906, and for two years I sought in vain to find them in
any raw wool. The kempiest of kempy Cape gave nothing
of the kind. It contained some fibers that were more oval
than round, but none of them took any dye, all were shiny
and opaque (see Fig. 1), remaining shiny and opaque in spite
of any treatment that I could give them. The same is true
of all the Australian wool that I examined, so I was driven
further afield, that is to say, I was driven to qualities of wool
that I did not expect to find represented in medium-quality
worsted yarns. Here at the very first effort my quest was
successful, and in a tiny sample of East Indian wool I found
all the flat kemps that I needed for two years of microscopic
research. They exactly resembled the flat fibers I had found
two years before in the piece of serge. They were so flat
that they would buckle rather than bend; they absorb dye
but they shine with a peculiar brilliance so long as they remain
in their natural condition.

I can only theorize as to the nature of their condition, but
the theory is based on and supported by micro-photographs
of considerable magnification, and I only offer the theory as
a first contribution to the literature of a new subject which
others may criticise and correct.

So far as is at present known, their curious luster and
their opacity when dry are due to the fact that they are
hollow. If put into benzine under a cover-glass they are
at first quite opaque, but if squeezed a quantity of tiny air

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

257

bells escape from the fiber and benzine takes the space pre-
viously occupied by air. Wherever the air is expelled the
fiber becomes quite transparent, so much so that the scaly
covering of both sides can easily be seen. This applies to
all fibers dyed and undyed, with the single exception of
black. Fibers dyed black become apparently solid ; the air
is expelled ; some pigment takes its place within the outer
scales and swells the fiber (see Fig. 8). In all other cases

Fig. 9.
Flat keiups, opaque in parts where air is not expelled. Magnified 80 times,

the fiber remains tape-like in form with no apparent internal
structure.

Professor Proctor's theory is that all the internal spindle-
shaped cells are eaten out or destroyed by some bacteria, and
whether this theory is right or wrong it seems pretty clear
that all the internal cells are missing. Neat sulphuric acid
when a{iplied to normal fiber for twenty-four hours removes
their outer scales and so far attacks the spindle-shaped cells
that they begin to disintegrate and fall out of place. The
outer scales may also be removed by caustic soda or sodium

258 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

sulphide in a very brief space of time, but both these reagents
leave the spindle-shaped cells in a rather gelatinized condi-
tion and in consequence they are not so easy to detect in

Fig. 10.

Fine Australian mooI, magnified 120 times, showing spindle-shaped

cells disintegrated by sulphuric acid.

detail. On the other hand, it is very obvious indeed that
there is a very definite structure left when the scales have
been removed from normal fibers, whilst no experiment that
I have yet devised has shown that anything exists within the
outer casing of a flat kemp.

As already stated, they are invariably opaque as they
appear in untreated wool. This, and their peculiar luster
may be put down without doubt to the presence of air
within them. Sulphuric acid renders the fiber soft, flexible,
and transparent in places where the air is free to escape.
Two hours in 5 per cent KOH leaves them equally trans-
parent and much more pulpy in character, so that slight
pressure applied to the cover-glass under the microscope
causes them to burst, freeing many tiny air bells. Such
bursting should, of course, make any internal structure
visible, but on no single occasion have I succeeded in
detecting a single spindle-shaped cell in the flat portion of

A STUDY OF KEMPS. 259

a flat kemp ; though the same treatment invariably leaves a
sheaf of internal cells visible when it is applied to normal
fiber.

One is therefore driven to one of two conclusions : Either,
all the internal cells are missing in these fibers, or else they
have entirely altered in their nature and contracted in size
so much as to leave room in the flattened fiber for a quantity
of air. Now it is obvious that the fibers are so flat that
there is not room for any great amount of internal matter,
but on the other hand, the action of the black dye in filling
out the fiber points to the presence of some material on
which it is able to act, by means of which it is able to
expand the otherwise collapsed case. If boiled in olive oil
the fibers also absorb lubricant sufiicient to fill in many of
the microscopic spaces within them, and thereby they also
become transparent.

It may be taken as certain that the libers did once contain
spindle-shaped cells, because these internal cells are often
visible at the root end of the fiber in the form of a tuft look-

M--

l^i^fea^

^^y

"C^^S,

S5^^

Fig. U.

Wood fiber, magnified 120 times. Outer scales stripped by caustic soda

showing core of spindle-shaped cells.

260 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ing exactly as if they were being pressed out of the sur-
rounding case by internal pressure (see Fig. 6). That is the
only direct evidence we have that spindle-shaped cells ever
existed within the fiber for certain.

AS TO ORDINARY KEMPS.

The nature of ordinary kemps is equally difficult to diag-
nose. They clearl}^ consist of three concentric layers or
rather of a core surrounded by a relatively thick layer, which
in its turn is surrounded by a thin coat of scales. When
broken or cut across and the end examined in direct sun-
light, they appear to be quite solid and of exactlj^ the same
nature, color, and density as when they are seen longitudi-
nally. For the most part they are oval in section ; the edges
of the central core are clearly marked, being about one-third
the diameter of the whole fiber, whilst the cortical portion
and the scaly coat appear of one density, ivory white in
color, with the sheen of frosted silver, which has already
been mentioned, but without any visible structure under
powers of five hundred diameters.

The fact that the central core is one-third of the total
diameter of the fiber is very clearly shown if a kemp is
placed in dilute KOH for an hour. Figure 12 is a photo-
graph of Cape kemp after this treatment. It shows the
relation of the central core to the medullary portion, which
in this case (as already noted) is indistinguishable from the
scaly coat. In sound wool fiber the central core is indis-
tinguishable under normal circumstances, and it is therefore
difficult to say what its size really is. Professor Bowman, in
his illustration of a longitudinal section of a hair on page 32
of his first edition, shows the central medulla as composed of
round nucleated cells, exactly one-tenth of the total diameter
of the fiber. He shows the bulk of the fiber as composed of
fibrous or (as he calls them) spindle-shaped cells, surrounded
by the laminated cells or plates which form the serrated edge.
It is true that in his large scale illustration of a section of
Lincoln wool he shows no central core, but as he repeatedly
refers to the existence of medullary cells in wool, it is fair to

A STUDY OF KEMPS.

261

assume that he regarded them as being common, if not
universal in wool fiber. Although I have never seen them in
normal fiber I also regard them as being present, and further-

FiG. 12.
Kemp soaked in KOH for an hour. Magnified 80 times.

more regard them as being more liable than any others to
alterations of structure.

THE SIZE OF KEMPS.

Dr. Bowman advanced the theory that the structure of
wool fiber resembles that of the stems of plants in being least
dense in the center and steadily increasing in density to the
ovitmost layer. In conformity with this theory, his section
of hair shows the cells in the absolute center of the fiber as
being almost spherical in shape, whilst all others within the
outer coat are spindle-shaped, the scaly coating itself being
composed of cells which have developed into absolutely flat
plates.

I see no reason to quarrel with this theory, for the learned
author is careful to refer to the " change " which has made a

262 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

kenip different from a normal fiber, and my photographs only
go to show that the medulla or central portion of a kemp is
composed of approximately spherical cells. They also show
that if the medulla of a kemp was ever one-tenth of its total
diameter, some strange alteration has taken place and caused
it to expand very greatly, for it has not only expanded to
one-third the diameter of the fiber, but the fiber itself has
also expanded to three times the thickness of a normal wool
fiber. Put into plain words, I make the medulla of a kemp
to be one two-hundredths of an inch in diameter or at least
twice the diameter of the thickest fiber of healthy cross-
bred wool that I have yet measured, the whole kemp itself
(after treatment with caustic potash) being six times the
diameter of a very thick forties fiber. When one considers
that this kemp grew amongst very fine Cape merinos, it is no
exaggeration to say that before it was treated in any way it
was six times the diameter of the finest fibers amongst which
it grew.

Why this should be so is not yet clear, but it seems to me
that some tem})orary defect in the hair bulb causes the
formation of spherical instead of spindle-shaped cells. If
this were so the fiber would of course gain in size what it
lost in length.

I have already stated that an average kemp is about three
times the diameter and one-third the length of the fibers
amongst which it grows. Amongst six-inch fibers a kemp
would not much exceed two inches in length. Spindle-
shaped cells, according to Dr. Bowman, average ^-q^q inch in
diameter b}^ -^^^ inch in length. Such photographs as I
have, show them to be in about the same proportion of length
to diameter, that is to say ten times as long as they are wide.

Suppose, for example, that we state the case in ten
thousandth parts of an inch, and imagine a fiber composed of
spindle-shaped cells measuring four of these fractions in
diameter by forty in length. The cubic contents of each
would be more simply stated as 640. But so far as we can
tell the cells in kemps are not spindle-shaped (see Fig. 12).
Their length and diameter are nearly equal, as are the cen-

A STUDY OF KEMPS. 263

tial cells shown in Dr. Bowman's illustration of a hair
already referred to, and to find the dimensions of a cell of
this shape whose cubic contents are 640, we take the cubic
root and get 8.62, that is to say, the diameter is more than
double and the length about oiie-fourtli of a spindle-shaped
cell of equal bulk, and therefore we may surmise that a fiber
composed of such cells should likewise be one-fourth the
length and twice the diameter of a normal fiber. This brings
us to what appears at first to be a reductio ad absurdum, for
the bulk of a kemp three times the diameter and one-third
the length would be equal to but three times the bulk of
the normal fiber. In spite of the fact that it does not fit
with theory I regard this figure as approximately correct. It
has one strong point ; it accounts for the presence of air bells
which are found in so many kemps of both classes. If
spindle-shaped cells have ever existed as such within such
kempy fibers, they have obviously sliortened and widened in
course of time and in so doing their altered shape has formed
spaces into which air has percolated through the walls of the
fiber.

AIK IN KEMPS.

This would certainly account for the presence of air in so
many kemps. Air does exist. The curious fact remains
that in spite of the air they contain they are heavier than
water ; so that the specific gravity of the actual matter of
which they are composed must be well over one. In this
they do not differ from normal wool fibers. Perfectly clean
fibers, once immersed so as to remove all air bells adher.
ing to them, will sink steadily in clean water. Flat kemps
on the other hand will generally float. Some not only float
but are quite buoyant and rise quickly through water if they
are sunk to a depth of a few inches below the surface with a
pair of forceps. This, of course, is in line with what we
should expect, and if the buoyancy is solely due to the pres-
ence of air they should sink as soon as the air escapes.

If flat kemps are boiled, the air that they contain is driven
off in about ten minutes, and then they immediately sink.

264 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Therefore we may say without hesitation that the material
of which tliey are composed is like that of ordinary wool
fiber and ordinary kemps in having a specific gravity of more
than 1.

Tliis practically completes the tale of facts that I have
observed and it is not easy to sum them up in a few words.

It is unsafe for the student with a microscope to draw too
many deductions; it is for the manufacturer and the grower
to do that. The practical value of tliese investigations to
the manufacturers lies in the knowledge that flat kemps are
invisible when dyed navy blue or black. To the grower
they are little more than data. They show how serious is
the damage occasioned by flat kemps as well as by ordinary
kemps, and must therefore show him the desirability of
eliminating them from the wool if possible.

It may be impossible ; but knowledge is seldom thrown
away and some few new facts may bear fruit if they are more
widely known.

Howard Priestman.

Bradford, England.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 265

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS.

WOOL AND COTTON, AND THEIR SPINNING AND WEAVING
IN THE ANCIENT DAYS.

(Before the Bostonian Society, on April 18, 1911, C. J.
H. Woodbury, Sc.D., the Secretary of The National Asso-
ciation of Cotton Manufacturers, delivered an address,
" Textile Education among the Puritans," which contains
much information as to the early beginnings of the textile
art in New England. Dr. Woodbury's address is of large,
permanent interest, and with his kind consent it is presented
in full to the readers of the Bulletin.)

The more spectacular religious and governmental oppres-
sions of that day often overshadow the economic conditions
which were fundamental elements in the settlement of New
England by the English.

England had been growing poorer in common with conti-
nental Europe. Population had gradually grown, and the
primitive conditions of husbandry failed to increase crops
commensurate with the greater consumption, and handiwork
had not received the aid of machinery to develop the larger
production of cloth.

None are too poor to fight and the burden of wars, both
civil and foreign, throughout Europe perhaps developed
irritation and discontent of povert}' which made taxation by
the state and rates of the church especially onerous burdens.
The whole story of daily existence in Europe was told by
the Pilgrim author in three words, " Life was hard."

The details of war, rather than the greater victories of
peace, usurp the pages of history, and in like manner the
printed books of colonial days are largely devoted to polemics
among the clei'gy, relations with the Indians, and a great
amount of petty legislation inevitable with the conditions of
a new country, while the events of daily life which led to
substantial results in the founding of a nation were rarely

266 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

printed, and such as exist were, for the most part, found in
old letters, inventories, and accounts.

Outside of the daily press, a comparable condition as to
the record of commercial affairs exists with us to-day.

Of the many in England discontented with their lot, there
were some who had available resources sufficient to come to
Massachusetts Bay, which had been visited for many years
and mapped for over twenty years.

PROSPERITY OF THE PURITAN COLONISTS.

Whatever may have been the desires of many to emigrate,
traveling to colonize was an expensive matter, available
only to the prosperous.

The selective character of the New England colonists was
as well understood as it is to-day, and in a sermon William
Stoughton said, "God sifted a whole nation that he might
send choice Grain over into this Wilderness."

The Puritan pioneers were not poverty-stricken refugees,
and their sufferings were largely due to ignorance of more
severe climatic conditions than those of the old country,
which they were not prepared to meet, and it was merely a
lack of available resources at the first.

It is strictly in line with what is to be presented in this
paper on their fertile expedients to provide themselves with
cloth that a reference should be made to their domestic
ingenuity such as their origin of banking around houses,
placing clay between the studding and keeping it in place
with clay-boards, now known as clap-boards, anticipating
building-paper, by birch bark under shingles which has been
known to last over a century, and packing houses with sea-
weed to keep out all land vermin — later the subject material
of a patent not yet expired. In their meeting houses was
originated the closed pew, in place of open benches of the
old country with their inevitable drafts. The origin of foot-
stoves has eluded all my searches for an answer, but I cannot
learn that they were ever known in England, although they
are still used in Holland, and similar braziers are extensively
used in Italy. The later introduction of large stoves into

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 267

meeting houses divided at least one parish at the time of the
Armiuian schism.

Whenever a glimpse of their daily life can be obtained,
there is found most fertile resourcefulness of method.

It has been estimated that the fifteen hundred who came to
Salem in 1628-30 brought with them property to the amount
of fully a million dolhirs. Silks, furs, and plate abounded in
the colony, and yet in a few years there was such a shortage
of cloth that sheep skin garments became a necessity.

The dress of the period for both men and women in cir-
cumstances to have their portraits painted, which appears to
be the best measure of prosperity and social standing in
early days, was elaborate in cut, color, and decoration, and
the right to the dress of the gentleman or the gentlewoman
was fixed by statute in Massachusetts Bay, as it was in
England, limiting the privileges of wearing gold and silver
lace and other ornaments to those of estates above certain
amounts.

Inventories and also correspondence with the old country,
ordering outfits, contain a vast amount of dandified detail.

Wherever there were instances of unusual prosperity,
conditions akin to an aristocracy prevailed. The prosperous
class were Tories almost to a man, as they or their wives did
not wish the supply of luxuries of dress from abroad
stopped. The Revolution by the impoverishment or the
ex[)atriation of these Tories brought these aristocratic
assum[jtions to an end.

Later simplicity leading to fashions of the present day in
men's garb, at least, may have been forced by the scarcity
of varied fabrics and more especially the material for
ornamentation.

Although. I shall run from the Colony to the Province, as
the facts may lead, the purpose of this paper is to call atten-
tion to the fertility of mental resources exercised by this
seashore colony in providing themselves with cloth when a
sufficient supply could not be obtained from the mother
country, and vexatious as her commercial prohibitions may
have appeared, it is evident that the earlier laws of this

268 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

nature were defensive, because England had not the wool to
spare. The Pilgrim writer claimed that " warrs had kept
down the sheepe."

Two irrelevant conditions proved to be of vital benefit to
the colony, first : the reform of the methods of taxation, by
equalization as people had means to pay without undue distress
and not to rest directly upon agriculture, attempted by
Elizabeth, had not been fully developed under Charles the
First, and indeed contains open questions to this day ; but
she performed one act ultimately of untold value to the
colonists of Massachusetts Bay, who came from the eastern
counties of England in the very territory where she had
colonized spinners and weavers from the Netherlands and
these people had taught others of their skill, so that these
Puritan emigrants were the best equipped of all England to
spin and weave. The general exercise of such skill un-
doubtedly became a necessity rather than an early intention
among the colonists.

The other condition helpful to the colony was the fact that
the increasing scarcity of meat had impelled those living in
the shore countries of England and Europe to go after fish,
and finding the great supply of cod in the north Atlantic
they sailed the high seas and developed a race of bold
navigators from Scandinavia to the Mediterranean, who
traversed the ocean to great distances in small boats whose
return to port was evidence of skilled seamanship.

While Endicott's Colony did not contain many fishermen,
those of the Dorchester Colony which came from Devonshire,
which reaches from the English Channel to the Bristol
Channel, who earlier came to Cape Ann and thence to Salem,
and the Manxmen who later came to Marblehead, — and
brought their dialect with them, — were fishermen, who
added to the strength of the little colony whose fortunes
they shared.

THE PURITAN PURPOSE.

While the charter of the Massachusetts Bay Colony recites
its purpose to be the conversion of the Indians to the Chris-

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 269

tian religion, yet it is an historical fact that the Puritans came
over for business rather than for sentiment, and when a
Marbleheacler interrupted the minister with " we came here
to tish, and not to worship God," he undoubtedly vied with
the sermon in an irreverent declaration of truth, without
any disparagement to the " soundness " of the longer dis-
course from the pulpit.

They intended to catch fish for the English market, but in
fact were forced to send them to the West Indies and Spain
in order to obtain cotton and wool. They expected to buy
beaver skins from the Indians on their own terms, but the
savages were such keen traders that the struggle for self-
preservation develo[)ed the proverbial Yankee shrewdness.

They expected to depend upon the old country for supplies,
even to their drink, for there was such a general belief in
England that the water in America was unfit for drink,
owing doubtless to the brackishness of tide-washed springs
at the shore where early travelers filled their water butts,
that Endicott's fieet was ballastetl with casks of ale.

Even angle worms were brought over for bait in fresh
water fishing and the English angle worm, a different species
from those indigenous to this country, still exists in some
localities.

It may be difficult to state their economic intentions other
than to remain a loyal, subservient colony, but the neglect of
the Mother Country followed by repressive commercial legis.
lation developed their mental resources into an independent
condition a century before it was one of record.

No one with facts at hand can pretend that this was a land
of liberty, for there was greater personal freedom in England
as the very fact of the thousands of non-conformists who
remained there, either in relative peace or to fight out their
differences, attests.

This colony was no democracy, Governor John Winthrop,
the broadest mind among them, inveighed most bitterly
against general representation. The first freemen were
qualified May 18, 1631, and a count of those so elevated
above their fellowmen up to 1641 when the population was

270 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

first known, showed that out of a colony of 21,000 there had
been 1,293 qualified as freemen, although on account of death
and returns to England the maxirauiu number at any one
time was probably less than 1,000 freemen.

In a country fringing the seacoast, although their charter
conferred jurisdiction westerly to the " South Sea," yet they
were content with the judgment of an exploring party sent
out from Salem who reported that the country was not worth
the while of more than one plantation running back a league
from the sea, save at some places where two leagues might be
worth the while.

These pioneers were of that middle English stock still
feeling the pride of strength from the advancement which
they had received at the expense of the prestige of the aris-
tocracy as some of the results of the wars of the Roses which
rehabilitated England, except as to the condition of the peas-
ant farm laborers, which continued as before.

The extent to which this little band, fringed between the
savages and the deep sea, developed their own self-reliance is
shown by the manner in which they applied the principles of
law developed under generations of monarchies, to the solu-
tion of problems of local self-government, and beyond that
they initiated new functions of government, notably the
written ballot, trade schools, industrial statistics, free public
education, the town government, the separation of church
and state, citizen militia, printed paper money and the record
of deeds and mortoages. Well did Carlyle characterize the
people who showed such an initiative as "the last of the
heroisms."

COTTON AT THE TIME OF THE COLONY.

The relations of England and the North American colonies
to cotton contain some unexpected anomalies.

Cotton appears to have been the oldest known fabric in the
Orient, where its use for cloth is prehistoric and uninterrupted
to this day. It was mentioned in the Old Testament, in
Greek and Roman writers; it was related with strange exag-
gerations by early travelers to the East as Marco Polo and

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 271

Sir John Mandeville, and was used for clothing as far to the
west as the army of Julius Csesar.

All of the early explorers to the portions of the western
hemisphere where cotton was indigenous mention this plant
and its use for cloth.

It must have been well known to the Crusaders who brought
most of the luxuries to England and northern Europe. It
must have been within the academic knowledge of the clergy
and scholars of the laity in England, yet there did not appear
to be any general use or even knowledge of cotton cloth in
England until long after it was known in continental Europe
and New England.

The earliest reference to cotton in an English book as far
as I have been able to learn is in " Nova Britannica ; Offering
Most Excellent Fruits of Planting in Virginia," London,
1609, in which the statement is made that cotton would grow
as well in that province as in Italy.

"A Declaration of the State of Virginia," London, 1620,
mentions cotton among the " naturall commodities dispersed
up and downe the divers parts of the world all of which may
be had in abundance in Virginia."

It should be noted that these citations refer to prospective
cultivation of cotton ratlier than to it as a commercial com-
modity, and passing by certain references in letters the
earliest mention in an English book of cotton as merchandise
to be received in England is said to be "• Treasure of Traffic,"
by Lewis Roberts, 1641, in which it is related that cotton
woole had been received in London from islands in the Med-
iterranean and thence sent to Manchester. Later records show
that it was used for beds, and I have been unable to find any
reference precisely indicating when cotton spinning and
weaving was begun in England.

Barbadoes and other of the West Indies were settled by the
English at about the same time as Massachusetts Bay, and
cotton from these islands was sent to England as well as to
American colonists. Obstructive navigation laws were a
hindrance to its importation, and the spinning of this fiber in
the old country must have been conducted from the first on

272 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OK WOOL M ANUFAOTUKERS.

a very limited scaler and evidently without that commercial
importance which was the case in New England.

The Poor Law of l^^lizabcth, IGOl, cites the raw materials
used in nianul'acture and yet makes no reference to cotton,
as would have been the case if it was s])un at that day.

Samuel Pepys' records in his diary, Fcbinary 27, 1^)03-64,
"Great good company at dinner, among others Sir Martin
Noell, who told us the dispute between him as farmer of the
Additional Duty, and the East India Company, whether
callicos be linnen or no, which he S'Ayn it is, having ever
l)e(!n esteemed so ; they say it is made of cotton woole which
grows upon trees and not like flax or hemp. But it was
carried ;ig;unst tiie com|)any, tliough tliey stand out against
the verdict."

Would that we knew the results of the appeal against the
inti('|)idity of ignoiance in this depaitmental ruling, but the
gossij)y diarist does not make any later record on the sul)ject,
and as he would liave gloated over the discomfiture of the
reversal of the ruling it is assumed that the Calicut cloth
was legally adjudged to be " some sort of linnen."

Yet the Colony of Massachusetts Bay was legislating upon
" cotton woole " as a well-k]U)wn commercial raw material
twenty-four years before this time.

Two notes of record on the early use of cotton in this
country may be relevant in this connection.

Christo|)her Columbus, who was the son of a weaver, dis-
covered in this luimis[)h(!re corn, cotton and tobacco, but
does not appear to have regarded them as anything out of
the ordiiiaiy of expected euriositic^s, so grcsat was his eager-
ness for gold and gems. In his diary he relates that after he
had left the Island of San Salvador on the occasion of his
first landing, the natives swam out to the boats, bearing
balls of cotton thread as presents, and later in the evening
came out to the ships in their canoes with more balls of
cotton, some weighing over twenty-five pounds.

A few days later he refers to cotton cloth used by the
natives of another island, and similar references are repeated
in the accounts of visiting uuuierous ishiuds.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE TURITANS. 273

What is evidently the earliest record of cotton in this
vicinity is contained in the account by Champlain of his
battle on the west shore of Lake Cliamplain, July 2, 1609,
wliere he refers to arrow-proof armor worn by the chiefs,
consisting of strips of hard wood bound together by cotton
yarn.

This cotton could not have been raised in that vicinity,
but the commerce among the Indians was exclusively barter
and extended over long distances.

The Indians in the natural cotton belt in Georgia and the
Carolinas are known to have spun cotton, and although any
known samples of that product in the North have long gone
out of existence, yet if any exclusive product of the Indians
at the North has been found in tlie South, it is fair to assume
that cotton yarn was among the articles exchanged in the
barter.

The arrow heads made of the peculiar rock of Mount
Kineo, at Moosehead Lake, Me., and not existing elsewhere
in this country, have been found in Alabama, Ohio, and
Indiana, thus showing the extent of their distribution.

The only original fabric of the Indians in Massachusetts
which has been found is the plaited rather than woven cloth
made of the wild hemp.

NEW ENGLAND TRADERS BEFORE THE SETTLEMENT.

When the first settlers came to Massachusetts, the Indians
had to a slight extent a red cloth made of a mixture of wool
and flax, known as Shag, and probably as irritating as the
shirt of Nessus, which they had obtained from the early
explorers and fishermen who had sailed along the coast for
nearly twenty years, and they were eager to barter skins for
cloth, which formed the basis of the trade in beaver skins,
forming an important commerce for more than a generation.

The extent of these antecolonial visitations of fishermen
and adventurers along the New England coast — all of them
traders — is indicated by the "Welcome, Englishmen!" of
Samoset to the Plymouth colonists, and the evident ease of
communication with the Indians at all the later settlements

274 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

shows that it had been sufficient for the savages to learn con-
siderable of the English language.

As an instance of the measure of communication and its
inevitable errors at earlier dates, it will be noted that the
charter of the Massachusetts Bay Colony vested to it from
three miles north of the Merrimack to three miles south of
the Charles, and from the Atlantic Ocean to the " South
Sea," which was supposed at the time to be a branch of the
ocean reaching from the west to the vicinity of the present
site of Albany, N.Y.

The source of this authority was from the information
received from the Indians by the earlier travelers, and prob-
ably resulted from an attempt of the Indians to communicate
some information in regard to Lake Champlain, the largest
body of fresh water lying within the United States.

ENGLISH RESTRICTIONS UPON COMMERCE IN CLOTH.

Commerce with the Mother Country would have been
beset with difficulties even under the most adventitious con-
ditions. Vessels were small, rarely over 100 tons even after
the Revolution, and generally less than half that tonnage, and
could make but two round voyages to England in a year.
Freights were X3 to X4 a ton, an enormous amount in those
days, which has been estimated as the equivalent of eight
times that amount at the present day. Thus without con-
sidering the obstructing legislation of the Navigation Acts
of England, there were legitimate commercial difficulties in
the way of obtaining a supply of clothing from England,
and the serious condition of affairs and the remedies which
were initiated were fully set forth in the acts of that very
paternal government, constituting the court of the governor
and deputies which legislated upon every conceivable detail
of person and property.

The English Navigation Acts, 1662-1685, intended to
secure to English shipping all available commerce, among
them being cotton, wool, and indigo. These acts were so
contrary to the natural courses of trade that they were
evaded and scarcely enforced.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 275

The export of sheep, wool, and woolen yarns from England
to the colony was prohibited in 1665, and an export duty
levied on woolen cloth, and commerce between the American
colonies had been forbidden at an earlier day. These unwar-
rantable interferences virtually made smuggling very general
among the colonists, if such a term be fairly applicable to
illegal commerce under such conditions.

The extent to which this repressive legislation failed of its
purpose is shown by the fact that the " Complete Tradesman "
issued in England in 1663, makes no mention of commerce
with New England as a field of export for English woolens.

It is only fair to call attention to the skill of the Florentine
merchants who bought the rough woolen cloth woven in Eng-
land and dyed and finished it in a superior manner by the skill
of their guilds, and not merely interfered with the English
market on the continent, but also sold large quantities of it
at a greatly augmented price in England.

The relations of Cromwell with the Colony of Massachu-
setts Bay were fickle ; although posing as a friend restrictive
legislation was enacted during the protectorate. At one
time he contemplated joining the colony as its ruler, at
another moving it to Jamaica, and later to transfer it to
Ireland, but the roots had grown too deep.

The relations of the colony with the Mother Country were
summed up years later by David Hartley, who was the sole
commissioner on the part of Great Britain to sign the Treaty
of Utrecht, which closed the Revolution, when he declared
in the House of Commons that for one hundred and fifty
years England had given no aid or encouragement to those
who sought to establish the English race on these shores, but
left them to battle with the Indians and to defend their own
frontier, and forced the colonists to buy in her market and
to pay the prices which were demanded.

The colonists realized this, and their first seal bore the
Macedonian cry, "Come over and help us I "

All parties in England appeared to be a unit in seeking to
keep the colony in an absolutely dependent commercial con-

276 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

dition, and to permit only agriculture, lumbering, fishing, and
peltry.

Lord Chatham, the proverbial friend of the colonies, stated
that if he had his way they would not be permitted to make
a horseshoe nail.

Years later when Franklin as the agent of the colonies
was asked by the Council in London, " Suppose the external
duties were to be laid on the necessaries of life ? " gave the
amazing answer, "I do not know a single article imported
into the Northern Colonies but what they can either do with-
out or make themselves. The people will spin and work for
themselves in their own houses."

Severe as this legislation may appear it was not vindictive,
but merely a correspondence course in stupidity. England
was poor and needed money, therefore she taxed everything
available ; the people were poor and it was assumed that it
would help matters if such taxation was so framed as to drive
colonial customers to merchants in the Mother Countr3^

History repeated itself when George III. wanted the town
residence of the Duke of Buckingham, and the Council stated
that the Exchequer had no money. "Tax the American
Colonies ! " said the King. Buckingham Palace was secured,
the tax levied, the minority in the colonies ruled and the
cord snapped.

INSTRUCTION IN SPINNING.

Spinning and weaving were entirely domestic occupations
until about the time of the Revolution, and there must have
been considerable manufacture of cloth during the earlier
days of the colony among those who came across the Atlantic,
but the younger generation were not under the instructing
influence derived from the spinners from the Netherlands,
and with the distracting conditions of the new country they
were not continuing with the same skill, and heroic measures
by the colonists were necessary in self-defence to make pro-
vision for clothing.

Let the acts in their sequence tell the story which abounds
in detail if not perspective. On November 8, 1633, the

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 277

scarcity of cloth had evidently begun to conform to the com-
mercial conditions of higher prices, as the court on that day
regulated the prices of many articles adding with covert
threat :

And for lynnen & other comodities wch in regard of their
close stouage & small hazard may be afforded att a cheap rate
wee do advise all men to be a rule to themselues in keeping a
good conscience assureing them that if any man shall exceede
the bounds of moderacon wee shall punish them seuerely.

Without citing more than typical acts of legislation, the
first measure which attempted to provide a physical remedy
other than attempts at commercial regulation of prices which
were probably as unfeasible in the face of commercial condi-
tions then as they have been ever since that time, was the act
of May 13, 1640, which introduces provisions for industrial
statistics and industrial education, and indicates that some-
body had been thinking wisely and concluded that the time
for action had arrived.

This Court takeing into serios consideration the absolute
necessity for the raising of the manufacture of linnen cloth,
&c.,doth declare that it is the intent of this Court that there
shalbe an order setled about it, & therefore doth require the
magistrats & deputies of the severall townes to acquaint the
townesmen therewith, & to make inquiry wdiat seede is in
every towne, what men & weomen are skilfull in the braking,
spining, weaving, what meanes for the pviding of wheeles &
to consider wth those skilfull in that manifacture what
course may bee taken to raise the materials & i)duce the mani-
facture & what course may bee taken for teaching the boyes
& girles in all townes the spining of the yarne & to returne
to the next Court their severall & ioynt advise about this
thing. The like consideration would bee had for tlie spining
& weaveing of cotton woole.

This was followed by the act of October 7, 1640, giving a
bounty of 25 per cent for textile manufactures.

For incuragment of the manifacture of linnen, woollen
and cotton clothe, it is ordered that whosoever shall make
any sort of the said cloathes fit for use and shall shewe the

278 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

same to the next magistrat or to 2 of the deputies of this
Court, upon certificate thereof to this Court or the Court of
Assistants, the party shall have alovvance of 3d in the shill-
ing of the worth of such cloth according to the valewation
wch shalbee certified wth it. And the said magistrate or
deputies shall set such marke upon the same cloth as it may
bee found to have bene alowed for ; pvided this order shall
extend onely to such cloth as shalbee made wthin this iuris-
diction, & the yarne heare spun also, & of such materials as
shalbee raised also wthin the same, or else of cotton. This
order to continue for 3 yeares next followinge.

This was evidentl}' not entirely satisfactory, as it was
repealed June 2, 1641, eight months later, and on the same
date, legislation was passed indicating twice that the supply
of cotton was insufficient for the existing demand, and also
referring to the wild hemp which was evidently derived from
the practices of the Indians with this as their only indigenous
source of textiles to which reference has already been made.

This Cort takeing into consideration the want of cloath-
ing wch is like to come upon us the next winter & not finding
any way to supply us so well as by cotton wch wee find not
like to bee pvided in dew time for the present want & vender-
standing withall from the certain knowledge of divrse of the
court that there is a kind of wild hempe groweing plentifully
all over the countrey wch if it were gathered and improved,
might serve for psent supply until cotton may bee had, it is
therefore ordered :

And here follow provisions for the gathering and use of
wild hemp, and its spinning mornings and evenings through
the seasons " that the honest and profitable custom of
England may be continued." The latter appears to be the
earliest reference to spinning in the old country.

The same line of constructive legislation continues, for on
June 14, 1642, the following act was passed:

This Cort taking into consideration the great neglect of
many parents and masters in training up the children in
learning & labor & other iniployments wch may bee profit-
able to the common wealth do hereupon order & decree that
in every towne the chosen men for managing the prudenciall

TEXTILE EDUCATIO>J AMONG THE PUKITANS. 279

affaires of the same shall hencefourth stand cl)arffed wth the
care of the redresse of this evill. They are to take care that
such as are set to keep cattle bee set to some other iiDpliment
withall as spinning upon the rock, knitting, weveing tape, &
for their better ])formance of this trust committed to them
they may divide the towne amongst them, appointing to every
of the said townsmen a certeine number of families to have
speciall oersight of, they are also to pvide that a sufficient
quantity of materialls as hempe, flaxe, &c., may bee raised in
their severall townes & tooles and implements pvided for
working out the same & for their assistance in this so need-
full & beneficiall impliment, if they meete with any difficulty
or opposition wch they cannot well muster by their owne
power, tliey may have recorse to some of the magistrates.

This "spinning upon tlie rock" is a unique reference not
known to occur contemporaneously elsewhere, rehitive to a
method of spinning obtained from the Indians. The rock
was a whorl of stone or dried clay in the form of a torus, or
a round doughnut, in which the hole was small enough to
prevent from passing through the large end of the wood
spindle forming the distaff and in this manner acts as a small
fly-wheel on the spindle and also keeps it in a vertical posi-
tion. The clay and pottery whorls found among the Indian
relics in the southwest are generally covered with elaborate
decorations.

On May 14, 1656, the Court enacted further legislation
whose preamble indicated an alarming state of affairs on the
scarcity of cloth, which urgently called for immediate action
as set forth in the act, which was in part:

This Cort taking into serjous consideration the present
streights & necessitjes that lye vppon the countrje in respect
of cloathing, which is not liked to be so plentifully suppljed
from forraigne parts as in tjmes past, & not knowing any
better way & meanes condiiceable to our subsistence then
improoving as many hands as may be in spinning woole,
cotton, flaxe, &c, —

Itt is therefore ordered by this Court and the authoritje
thereof, that all hands not necessarily implojde on other
occasions as woemen, girles & boyes, shall and heereby are
enjoyned to spinn according to theire skills & abiliitje ; &
that the selectmen in euery toune doe consider the condicon

280 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

& capacitje of euery family and, accordingly assess them at
one or more spinners; & since severall familyes are neces-
sarily imployd the greatest part of theire time in other
buisness, yet if opportunitjes were attended, sometjme might
be spared at advantage by some of them for this worke.
The sajd select men shall therefore assess such familyes at
half or a quarter of a spinner, according to their capacitjes ;
secondly, that euery one thus assessed for a whole spiner
doe, after this present yeare, 1656, spinn, for 30 weekes euery
yeare, three pounds p weeke of lining, cotton, or woolen, &
the select men shall take special care for the execution of
this order and shall haue power to make such orders in theire
respective tonnes for the clearing of comons for keeping of
sheepe. And the deputjes of the severall tonnes are hereby
required to impart the mind of tlie Cort, for the saving of ye
seede both of hemp and fiaxe.

The differences in the provisions for the enforcement of
the acts of 1642 and 1656 reveal a change of conditions
between the old country and the new.

In the first instance, it was entrusted to the masters, being
master workmen of the English guilds who had come over
presumably with the Salem colony fourteen years before, as
there had been but little other immigration, and at the time
of the second act, it was as much later, and these twenty-
eight years, added to the age of a master workman of mature
age at the time of the settlement, would bring him beyond
active labor, and in the sere and yellow age, if indeed living.

As the guilds were not perpetuated in this country, it
became necessary at the time of later legislation to use the
authority of officers of colony and towns which had been
established by the Court in developing the government of
the colony.

This legislation indicates the wonderful scope of initiative
in their minds, as we find here provisions for the first public
education, which was vocational and textile education, and
also industrial statistics.

The oft quoted act establishing free public schools sus-
tained by general taxation where our ancestors learned their
letters from the horn book, and in the scarcity of paper

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 281

learned to write and to cypher on birch bark, was not passed
until 1647.

Would that we knew the man who framed the legislation
which met the issue so decisively, in order that later genera-
tions might keep him in grateful remembrance for the action
which undoubtedly preserved the colony, and also served as
a nucleus which in due time developed the textile manufac-
ture of New England.

Such individual instruction was not accompanied by
records to reveal the various steps and details of the work,
but the more important matter of the result is known and
that is, the people were adequately furnished with home-spun
cloth or there would have been further legislation, and some
outcries in sermons, account books or inventories would have
furnished a record.

There is, however, one record which sums up the whole
result of this stimulus both of textile education and the
provisions for raw material, and that is in the contemporane-
ous " Johnson's Wonder Working Providence in New
England" in 1652, stating that the people made more than
enough clothing for their own use.

Some clothing at a price did come from England as account
books show, but it was evidently far less than required for
supjDlying the needs of the people.

As woolen goods require to be fulled, the establishment of
fulling mills became matters of record in the sale of land,
development of water power, and permits to build, in
settlements throughout the colony where there was a water
supply for the purpose, and this gives records showing the
weaving of wool, while the spinning and weaving of cotton
being a domestic handicraft made no comparable record.

Rowley appears to have been a textile headquarters which
failed to develop into leading conditions for the textile
manufacture in years later, probably from lack of water
power and deep water transportation, as flax, hemp, and cotton
were woven there in large quantities before 1639, and this
centering of the industry attracted twenty families of York-
shire weavers to settle there in 1643.

282 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

THE SUPPLY OF COTTON FOR NEW ENGLAND.

The acts of the General Court show that " cotton woole "
was well known in the colony in 1636 and various records
show that the earlier importation of cotton and indigo from
Barbadoes, which appears to have been in many instances a
generic name for the West Indies, was extensive ; and this
importation continued until the War of 1812.

The " Desire of Salem," the largest ship of her day,
returned to that port in 1638 with a large supply of cotton.

The " Trial," one hundred and sixty tons, was the first ship
built in Boston and her first voyage was to St. Christophers
in the West Indies for a cargo of cotton.

Salt fish, staves and Indian captives were sent to that
fertile island in exchange for cotton, molasses, and "ye
inspiring Barbadoes drynk " and negro slaves. I have been
told by an observant traveler that Indians sent there and
intermarrying with the negroes were sufficient to hybridize
the kink in the wool to a wave, remaining to this day nearly
three centuries in anticipation of the skill of Marcel, the
coiftieur.

The State of Connecticut in 1640 imported cotton from
the West Indies and sold it to their towns, and private
enterpri undoubtedl}'- obtained it at an earlier day, as in
the Colony of Massachusetts Bay.

The packing of cotton gave trouble then and remains a
live issue to this day, as an organization was formed in
Boston last February to mitigate this difficulty.

John Hull, the most enterprising Boston merchant of his
day and the treasurer of the Commonwealth for many years,
writes that he had received from the West Indies two bags of
" vile cotton woole," which he sends to a customer who evi-
dently comes to the same opinion when he finds in the middle
of a bag " much fowle cotton " and makes reclamation upon
Hull, who is obliged to make amends. Evidently the " dog-
tail" grade has no claim as modern slang.

The supply of cotton was provided for by an active export
trade in what was practically a foreign product, until long

TEXTiLE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 283

after the invention of the American cotton gin by Eli Whit-
ney in 1793, which provided' for the raw material the entirely
different commercial conditions of cotton manufacturing.

THE SUPPLY OF WOOL.

The shortage of wool received due attention of the Court
by the act of Angust 22, 1654, in which the growth of sheep
was encouraged by an act whose preamble stated that :

Whereas this countrje is at this tjme in great streights
in respect of cloatliing, and the most likeljust way tending
to our supply in that respect is the rajsing and keeping of
sheepe wthiii our jurisdiccon,

and in detail the exporting of ewes is forbidden as well as
the injunction that none shall be killed until they are two
years old.

The effect of these and earlier provisions for increase of
sheep for the sake of their wool was little short of marvelous.

There were 1,000 sheep in Massachusetts Bay Colony in
1642, and in IGGO the English Council made a report that
the colony had 100,000 sheep and was also buying wool fioin
the Dutch. At the earlier date at least they were sending
staves and salt fish to Spain which were traded for wool.

CORDAGE.

Vessels of that day were equipped with revolving hooks
for laying cordage, which was the first textile manufacturing
of the colony. These rope-making heads turned by hand, con-
tinued without serious modifications until recent time, about
two hundred years after the landing, were also set up on shore
and rope making carried on at first in the open, but theie was
so much available space for this purpose that information on
the subject comes by way of incident rather than designed
record. In this way, it is known that John and Philip
Varen made rope in Salem in 1635, and John Harrison, on
Purchase street, at Boston in 1641, and there were others
wherever rope was wanted and hemp available, and it was
not until there was a larger po[)ulation after the next century

284 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

came in that there appears any legislation on the subject
other than the early acts of the Court relative to the cultiva-
tion and treatment of hemp already cited, and these pertained
to its ultimate use for weaving.

In the later days we learn that the selectmen of Boston on
April 12, 1702, allowed Edward Gray to make use of the
highway near Lieutenant Holmes to make ropes at a rent of
twenty shillings a year in the future and seven shillings a
year in the past, and later, on May 17, 1708, the town of
Boston gave "Edward Sheaf leaf to set up some posts in the
training field to make ropes on.'' After the lope walks
between Pearl and Atkinson (now Congress) streets had been
destroyed by fire and considered to be a hazard to the build-
ings in that vicinity, the town granted in 1794 lands west of
Charles street and the Common which were called "• rope
walk lands." The ropes were first made in the open, but as
this Avas too much of a pleasant weather business like the
making of hay, four covered rope walks were built and these
later proved to be such a fire hazard to buildings which had
extended in that direction, at the fire which destroyed them
in 1806, that after several j^ears' negotiations the city bought
the lands in 1828 for $35,000, and the tract forms the i)resent
Public Garden.

The problem in regard to cordage was that of the raw
material and not its method of manufacture, as every sailor
knew how to lay hemp, and there was no need of legislation
upon its manufacture.

THE SPINNING SCHOOLS OF BOSTON.

About 1720 the question of instruction in spinning took a
distinctively different position from that of the colony
seventy years before.

In place of a system organized on the basis of individual
instruction to small groups, in the fields or elsewhere work-
ing with distaff or in a dwelling at a spinning wheel, there
was a general movement for vocational schools, although
they left that word and not much else as to methods tor
modern instructors.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 285

The suddenness of the achievement and its grasp upon the
comtnunity was remarkable, and while there must have been
some cause for a sentiment which enlisted the intense affilia-
tion of all classes of the community, yet the economic prin-
ciple which must have existed does not appear in any marked
change of commercial or sociological conditions.

Although there are no citations to confirm the opinion, yet
it appears as if this movement must have had some connec-
tion with the organized opposition of the English spinners
and weavers of cotton, which found voice in the English law
of 1721 forbidding the wearing of dyed or printed cotton
goods " except blue calicoes, muslins or fustians." The first
two of which at that time were imported from Calcutta, and
indicated the hand of the powerful East India Company in
amending legislation.

The people of New England had grown to appreciate
cotton, which was then as it is now the cheapest of fibers,
and naturally desired to provide for its continuance before
any similar prohibitions should be attempted for New England
by the mother country.

While allusion is made to the poor in some of the records,
they were " " always with us," and as the spinning schools
were begun seventy years after the establishment of public
schools, there is nothing in any such references to warrant
an opinion that they were tributary to a mendicant class, but
it is evident that they were framed for the general welfare
of the community.

It is unfair for some writers to apply the term " spinning
craze " to this movement, as instead of being ephemeral, it
endured for over fifty years, when it was stopped by the
stirring events of the Revolution.

The endorsement of these schools by those of social posi-
tion was indicated by the establishment of organizations of
ladies who would meet and spin, while the clergyman would
discourse to them, and the easy running Saxony wheel did
not disturb the spinning of yarns while that of yarn went on.

Shortly before the Revolution, these spinning societies
took an important part in stirring up local zeal, as serving a

286 NATIONAL ASSOCIATrON OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

similar purpose to what has been done by other organiza-
tions equally far afield from their original object in move-
ments preceding political overturns in many countiies.

The reiteration of considering, referring to committees,
resolving, and appropriating for spinning schools, drags its
weary way through fifty and more years of town records.

The records for the most part fail to indicate what was
actually accomplished, but the fact of the renewal of the
resolutions on the subject indicates tliat the former measures
had not been permanent, but that the purpose of the people
was unchanged.

In the perspective of nearly two centuries, the years
appear close together, and the brief records omit the obvious
of that day, but the very pertinency with which the subject
was attacked by so many different people witli their varied
points of view during two generations, indicate these measures
appealed to public sentiment as a living need.

Without assuming to cite in detail, a general review of
this industrial movement will illustrate the definite purpose
of a community for over half a century.

Long preliminary to the establishment of these schools,
the selectmen of Boston on April 13, 1702, voted to buy
some spinning wheels to provide work for the poor, evi-
dently an instance of that wisest form of charity which places
the needy in a self-supporting condition.

It should be noted that in 1718 a number of Irish spinners
arrived and were assigned land on the west side of the
Merrimac river below Manchester, N.H. The site was
unsatisfactory and many of them moved to different parts of
tha Province, especially to Boston, where they excited the
enthusiasm of the people for spinning, and a spinning school
was formed by them which met on the Common before the
establishment of S[)inning schools by the town. It may be
worth the while to note that these people introduced the cul-
tivation of the first potatoes into New England, although
they had been brought in small quantities from Bermuda as
early as 1636, and were served as a rarity at Harvard College
commencement dinner in 1708.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 287

The town of Boston voted on March 14, 1720, to establish
a spinning school in which the pupils had not merely free
instruction but board for the first three months, after which
time the yarn should be bought from them, and also pre-
miums for good work. Three hundred pounds were loaned
to the school for seven years, and twenty spinning wheels
ordered.

Daniel Oliver, a Boston merchant, one of the Royal Coun-
cil, and also chairman of the town committee ap[)ointed to
establish a spinning school in 1720, built at an expense of
.£600 a spinning school next to Barton's Rope walk near to
the Craigie Bridge, for the use of the town, to which he
bequeathed the building. He died July 23, 1731. This
appears to be the site of the spinning school, although the
report of the committee at the meeting December 27, 1720,
recommended as tlie site of the spinning school the " cellar
most made" in front of Captain Southacks, which is the site
of the ScoUay building formerly in ScoUay's square, but I do
not find any record of the acquisition of the site or the con-
struction of the building, although several histories refer to
ScoUay's square as the site of the school.

This subject was further taken up by a town meeting Sep-
tember 28, 1720, which, according to some authorities, resulted
in the erection of a large building known as the Manufactory
House on Long Acre (now Tremont) street, where Hamilton
place now enters. A large figure of a woman with a distaff
was painted on the westerly wall.

Although both the records and local histories contain
many references to this building which was an important
feature in industrial development, but little is known about
it. It is quite probable that the name was applied to two
buildings or to extensive enlargements of the first one, as
there is evidence of purchase of land and expenditures on
the building by the Province on the Manufactory House in
1753 and 1754.

The reference to the provision of board for the pupils was
so inconsistent with a town school as to raise a query which
was answered in part by the action of the Provincial Legisla-

288 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ture purchasing the Manufactory House in 1748, and granting
to the town of Boston four townships for its support and the
use of the provincial frigate for the transportation of the
scholars.

In 1735 the Province levied a tax on carriages to support
the spinning school and this statute was repealed in 1753, in
which year the town of Boston passed an ordinance for a
similar tax for the same purpose.

This pi'ovincial legislation on the school and its mainte-
nance indicates that it was a provincial as well as a town
institution, and gives a reason why board was provided for
the scholars.

In 1762 the Manufactory House was ordered sold, but the
sale did not take place, perhaps from lack of a purchaser, and
it remained standing until 1806, when Hamilton place was
run through its site.

When this spinning school was opened there was a large
spinning bee on the Common, where many women operated
their spinning wheels. Chief Justice Samuel Sewell, who
was the moderator of the town meeting when the spinning
school was authorized, presided on this occasion.

In 1753, on the fourth anniversar}^ of the society, there
was another large spinning bee held on the Common' at which
three hundred weavers were in three rows, with their leader
borne on the shoulders of men and a large number of weavers
with their leader weaving on a raised platform. Rev. Dr.
Samuel Cooper " improved " the occasion by a discourse. This
affair attracted to the town the largest number of people
ever known at any one time.

The town of Boston voted in 1754 to use the Old Town
House on the site of the present Old State House, for a spin-
ning school and appropriated £50, old tenor, to i)ut the
building in repair.

Charlestown had taken similar action in regard to its old
town house the preceding year.

Another movement in textile instruction is indicated by
the town notice September 2, 1762, that the spinning school
in the Manufactory House is again opened and that any

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 289

person may learn to spin without charge and be paid for their
spinning after tlie first three months, and that a premium of
<£]8, old tenor, is offered to the four best spinners.

At a town meeting April 4, 1769, a committee of which
William Molj'neaux, a leading Boston merchant of Huguenot
ancestry, born in 1716 and died October 22, 1774, was the
chairman, reported in favor of setting up spinning scliools in
various parts of the city, and hiring rooms and spinning
wheels, and the employment of school mistresses, and buying
wool which "can be converted into shalloons, durants, pam-
blitts, callaniancoes, durois, legathies, and in general men's
summer wear." None of these fabrics are known by this
name to-day, or indeed what manner of cloth other than they
were woolen goods.

The action of the town varied somewhat from the recom-
mendation of the committee. The whole project was put into
the hands of Mr. Molyneaux to whom the town gave <£200to
purchase equipment and hire rooms and employ school
mistresses, and also loaned him £300 to purchase wool.

1 have been unable to learn anything of the several places
which it was authorized sliould be hired for tiiis purpose,
except that the Manufactory House was granted him hn- the
purpose for seven years at an annual rental of five j)epper-
corns. It should be remembered that this building was then
the property of the province and not of the town.

A year later, March, 1770, we learn that he had a large
number of si)inning wheels and had engaged rooms for
enabling many young women to earn tlieir support.

The energy of Mr. Molyneaux inspired great activity in
spinning schools throughout the community outside of
Boston and large quantities of cotton and woolen goods were
made.

In this good work Mr. Molyneaux had personally advanced
amounts beyond the appropriations, and at the town meeting
in March, 1770, he requested a further allowance from the
town in reimbursement, but the question was laid over until
an adjourned meeting when Justice Dana could be present
and give legal advice and at the later meeting Justice Dana
was in attendance and gave his opinion that he doubted

290 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKEKS.

whether the town could legally remit the amount asked for,
and no further action was taken except to give Mr. Moly-
neaux, " a vote of thanks for his faithful discharge relative to
the spinning business."

While Mr. Molyneaux may have longed for an hour of
Judge Sewell, who presided at the town meeting when spin-
ning schools were authorized fifty years before, he did not
rest here, but at once presented a memorial to the General
Court in which for the first time during this fifty years there
is any disclosure of methods and equipment of this succession
of spinning schools, and this action also indicates the close
relation between town and province in regard to these
schools.

He states that they have thorougldy instructed at least
three hundred children in the art of spinning, and to whom a
large amount lias been later paid in wages, and that he has
received only a loan from the town of £500 without interest,
while between ,£11,000 and £12,000 has been expended in
fitting up the machinery ; the first amount is evidently old
tenor, but not the later ones.

The equipment of this institution is interesting as it
includes on hand 40,000 skeins of fine 3^arn fit to make any
kind of women's wear and a large amount of dyestuffs ; and
for the plant, a large number of spinning wheels which he had
made, also " comj)lete apparatus " among which is cited
twisting and winding mills, fifty looms^ furnaces for hot and
cold presses, and dyehouse with large copper tanks.

There does not appear to be any record showing that this
memorial received different treatment from the usual govern-
ment claim, but whatever may have been the injustice of town
and province, the official record shows that the people owed a
great debt of gratitude to this wise merchant in giving of his
skill and his fortune toward the extension of the textile art
in such a manner that the immediate results made many
women self-supporting at a time when the opportunities for
work outside of domestic employment were few.

It may be a surprise to some, as it was to the writer, to be
informed that public hand spinning and weaving schools are
still maintained in Holland.

TEXTILE EDUCATION AMONG THE PURITANS. 291

I have omitted all reference to the long continued peti-
tions, votes and appropriations relative to the linen duck"
manufacture in the town of Boston, as it was at best a manu-
facturing scheme, or a succession of them, by promoters
which was brought to an end by the granting of a petition to
discharge the obligations of the surviving members of the
Linen Manufactory as the enterprise had been a failure. It
does not appear that there ever was any provision for the
textile education of the young in the enterprise.

Sails in northern countries were ahvays made of linen,
until Seth Bemis made duck from sea island cotton at
Watertown in 1809. A few years ago sea island cotton was
used in making at New Hartford, Conn., a set of sails for one
of the defenders of the international cup.

In closing this account of the sagacity and enterpiise in
textiles of the people of Massachusetts Ba}-, it may be well
to note that an important provision for the beginnings of the
manufacture of cotton goods at about the time of tlie
Revolution rested upon the wisdom of Governor John
Winthrop, who in 1633 encouraged the development of all
water powers near to settlements for grain mills and saw
mills.

These mills are said to have been generall}- built of stone
and were one story in height. One hundred and fifty years
later when power spinning machinery was surreptitiously
imported, many of these grain and saw mills were extended
a story higher with wood, and there were twenty-seven such
spinning mills in Massachusetts before 1812, — none of
which are believed to be now standing, — but the charter
and vested rights of many a water-power in this Common-
wealth rest upon the run-of-stone which they must still
retain.

The inventions of the spiiniing jenny by Hargreaves in
1667, and the spinning frame by Arkwright in 1769, which
surreptitiously reached this country just before the Revolu-
tion, were the beginning of the end of making cloth solely as
a domestic occupation, and cotton manufacturing had begun.

It should be stated there was always one marked difference
between hand-made cotton goods in Old England and New

292 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

England, that whereas in New England such cloth was made
entirely of cotton, and inventories in colonial times show
that it was appraised at a higher price than linen, and pure
hand-made cotton was not made in Old England until after
1760, but was woven with linen warp and cotton filling, yet
the English imported a large amovmt of calico, which was
the trade name for cotton cloth obtained from Calcutta
whether white or hand printed.

The extent of cotton manufacture involves amounts
"beyond the dreams of avarice," and yet its increase had
been largely the additional use by those within the zone of
the cotton manufacture. Civilized people are using an
increased amount of cotton cloth both in elaboration of dress,
and of late years in the substitution of cotton for wool,
either pure or mixed in many fabiics.

Yet the cotton manufacture has hardly made its mark
among the unnumbered millions of the Orient or the bar-
barous people of warm countries. It has been estimated
that only about 20 to 25 per cent of the population of the
eaith, wearing cotton cloth, use manufactured goods.

Labor in those countries is so cheap and land transporta-
tion so dear, that the differences in cost generally equate
themselves in a distance of fifty miles from navigable waters.

The great amount of concentration of human skill in the
cotton manufacture has accomplished wonderful results in
reducing the cost of the manufactured product, and therefore
extending its usage.

Although it may have made the cheaper class of goods
more uniform in their quality, yet the finer varieties of fab-
rics still continue to be the result of handicraft.

The finest muslins are still spun and woven by hand in
India b}' a cult whose skill was well established at the time
of the earliest acquisitions of authority by the East India
Compan}' in that country.

The artistic weaving of the world is that of the Gobelins,
who still maintain handicraft methods at tlieir little Flemish
Colony in Paris, where they were established by Louis XIV.,
who also introduced the merino sheep into France.

' fzu.u.UA.^nycJ<^^

OBITUARY. 293

©bituarp.

MR. A. PARK HAMMOND.

Mr. a. Park Hammoxd, of the Hockanum Mills, one of the
veteran woolen manufacturei's of New England, died on March
18, 1911, at his home in Rockville, Conn. He had been ill for a
long time and, much to his sorrow, incapacitated for active busi-
ness. Mr. Hammond's career was a long and successful one, and
liis rare personal qualities had endeared him to hundreds of
friends.

He was born in Vernon, the son of Captain Allen Hammond,
one of the pioneer woolen manufacturers whose work has made
the name of Rockville famous throughout the country. The
older Hammond was the first superintendent of the New Eng-
land Mills, and served as agent until his death in 1864. The
son was educated in the schools of Rockville and in the Hall
School at Ellington and at Troy Polytechnic Institute. Asa lad
he worked in the New England Mills, but he was not satisfied with
the theoretical instruction in manufacturing which the technical
schools could give. Hard study, constant application, made him
a thorough, practical manufacturer. He mastered also the diffi-
cult art of the business administration of the mills. P>ecoming
superintendent, he succeeded his father as agent and treasurer
of the New England Company.

From 1874 to 1878 Mr. Hammond resided in Iowa, conducting
successfully a large farm. '^Phen for a time he was in the ser-
vice of the Hartford, Providence & Fishkill Railroad, but when
the company operating the New England Mills was reorganized,
Mr. Hammond was elected treasurer and held this important
post until the Hockanum, Springville, New England and Minter-
burn Mills were combined into the Hockaniim .Mills. He then
became assistant treasurer of the greater company.

Mr. Hammond was also the president of the Rockville National
Bank, the president of the Rockville Water & Aqueduct Com-
pany, and the president of the Rockville Building & Loan Asso-
ciation. During the Civil War he served with credit in the
Fourteenth Connecticut Volunteers, commanding a company at

294 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the battle of Antietam. Mr. Hammond had been a member of
the Masonic Order for more than fifty years, and he was a com-
rade of the Grand Army of the Republic. He had represented
his town in the Legislature of Connecticut, and had been a
member of the city council. In religious faith he was a Con-
gregationalist.

Mr. Hammond's long business career had made him widely
known among his fellow manufacturers. He was regarded by
them as an honor to his calling. For many years he was a
member of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers and
an active and influential member of tlie Executive Committee.
His presence at the meetings of the committee and of the Associ-
ation had lately been severely missed, and his death has brought
keen grief to his associates.

Few men have had such an engaging personality as Mr.
Hammond. His frank and genial temperament impressed all
who had the privilege of his acquaintance. He bore a notable
part in the modern development of New England manufacturing,
and the work which he achieved, his good deeds and his strong
and sunny character will be long remembered in his city and his
State.

Mr. Hammond leaves a widow and two sons, George B. and
Allen Hammond.

BOOK KEVIEW. 295

A VALUABLE TEXTILE TEXT-BOOK.

A CONCISE, clearly printed, practical and informing volume is
"Textiles; for Commercial, Industrial, Evening and Domestic
Art Schools," written by William H. Dooley, the Principal of
the Lawrence Industrial School, and published by D. C. Heath &
Company, of Boston, New York, and Chicago. It is a pioneer in
its field, just as its author has been a pioneer in industrial educa-
tion in Massachusetts. The construction of the work is a simple
and logical one. Mr. Dooley begins with a consideration of the
character of the fibers themselves — wool, cotton, flax, hemp,
silk, etc. He explains very carefully the distinctions among the
different kinds of wool and cotton — the bulk of his work being
devoted to these two most indispensable fibers. He goes on to
describe the processes of manufacture in various kinds of fabrics
which are the results. The whole work shows a fine, painstak-
ing industry and precision of statement. The book ought to be
of large, permanent value to the work of industrial schools in
similar industries, and it is full of important information also
for young people who look forward to engaging in such indus-
tries as wholesale and retail dry goods, dressmakers' and allied
trades. Appended there is an excellent chapter on the testitig of
materials. There are sufficient and apt illustrations. A place
should be found for this admirable little work in the libraries of
all American textile mills. Mr. Dooley has performed an unques-
tioned service to a great industry in compiling it.

296 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

(iHtiitorial anti Intiustrial jEiscellaup.

THE DEMOCRATIC SCHEDULE K.

A REVISION PLAINLY DICTATED BY CONSIDERATIONS OF
PARTY POLITICS.

The Democratic draft of a proposed revision of Schedule K,
as formulated by Chairman Underwood and the majority of the
Committee on Ways and Means, is just about what observers in the
wool and woolen trade have anticipated. An ad valorem duty
on raw wool of 20 per cent, and a duty on wool manufactures of
from 30 to 45 per cent have been clearly foreshadowed for a long
time as embodying the current Democratic idea of tariff reduc-
tion. Both constitute broadly an elimination at one stroke of
one-half of the protection which the wool and woolen industry of
America has enjoyed for a period of more than forty years,
broken only by the disastrous Gorman- Wilson experiment of
1894-1897.

That earlier Democratic tariff made raw wool absolutely free
of duty, and gave to wool manufactures in finished cloth and
dress goods an ad valorem duty of 40 and 50 per cent. The ad
valorem duty on such fabrics in the new Democratic proposal is
lower on the average than the Gorman- Wilson rates with free
wool, while the manufacturers under the new bill would be com-
pelled to pay a substantial duty on their raw material.

In other words, the new Democratic bill is more favorable to
raw wool and much less favorable to manufactures of wool than
the Gorman- Wilson Act of sinister memory. It is manifest that
the Democratic leaders, while desiring free wool in the abstract,
have been afraid of the political consequences of such extreme
legislation in the great Middle Western agricultural States which
a year ago gave the Democracy its coveted majority in the House
of Representatives. This apprehension of the prompt loss of the
House if wool were made entirely free has doubtless counted
even more heavily with the Committee on Ways and Means than
the loss of from .$15,000,000 to $20,000,000 of revenue.

Between 1893 and 1897, under the free wool policy of the
Gorman-Wilson law, the five populous Middle Western States of

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 297

Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Wisconsin, and Iowa saw their sheep
shrink from 6,775,474 to 3,697,087 — a loss of nearly one-half,
and a terrible sacrifice of one of the most valuable assets of
Middle Western agriculture. Free wool produced in 1894 a
veritable political revolution in these prairie States, the like of
which now would almost inevitably deprive the Democracy of its
present control of the House of Representatives. In avoiding
another such radical expedient as free avooI, the Democratic
chieftains of to-day have shown themselves possessed of far more
political sense than their predecessors of the school of Mills,
Breckinridge and Wilson, if even less practical knowledge of
industrial affairs.

It is true that the bill now proposed is much less protective of
the manufacturing interest than was the Gorman-Wilson law,
but the Democratic leaders are not looking with any great solici-
tude to the favor of the northeastern manufacturing States,
where most of the American woolen and worsted mills are
located. The handling of the Canadian reciprocity agreement
and of the free list bill shows clearly that Democratic calcula-
tions for the great Presidential campaign of 1912 are being made
with reference to winning and holding the support of the agricul-
tural constituencies of the Mississippi Valley, the West and the
Northwest, which in combination with the solid South, it is
hoped, can overwhelm the East and capture the National Govern-
ment. This is the underlying philosophy of the retention of a
duty on wool allied with a radical reduction of the protection on
wool manufactures.

We have discussed the new Democratic wool and woolen bill as
a political rather than as an economic measure, for the simple
reason that the bill obviously is political rather than economic.
No shadow of sanction of a policy of making a duty on crude
materials relatively higher, all things considered, than a duty on
high finished products can be found in the teachings of the
schools or the practice of tlie nations. This new Democratic
proposal has unquestionably been fabricated with a view to the
Presidential election of 1912 rather than with a view to actual
enactment. It must have been perfectly well known to its authors
that such a measure, unless it was radically amended, could never
hope for the approval of even a nominally Republican Senate or
the signature of a Republican Executive.

President Taft has freelv criticised Schediile K. He mis^rht

298 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

have welcomed some kind of a moderate revision downward.
But there are few who are willing to believe that he would ever
accept a proposal like this, which so far as its effect upon Ameri-
can manufacturing is concerned goes as far beyond Gorman-
Wilsonism as that went beyond the McKinley law which had
preceded or the Dingley law which superseded it.

And in the long run what is bad for the manufacturers of wool
is bad for the American growers of wool. There is no profitable
market for the fleeces at Wyoming, Ohio, Illinois or Michigan,
except in the woolen mills of the United States. A policy which
admits at a low, non-protective rate of duty foreign wool in the
form of manufactured goods from Europe robs American wool
growers of their prosperity just as surely as it robs the owners
of the mills. The close interdependence of the two branches of
the wool and woolen industry is not appreciated by the antliors
of the new Democratic wool and woolen bill. There must be
an active effort in the weeks to come to impress this interde-
pendence upon the consciousness of Senators and Representatives
of both political parties in Congress.

TEXT OF THE PROPOSAL.

The Democratic wool and woolen bill, as drawn up by the
majority of the Committee on Ways and Means, was submitted
to a caucus of the Democratic members of the House of Repre-
sentatives in Washington on June 1, and after a debate was
approved, several members, Messrs. Rucker of Colorado, Ash-
brook, Francis and Sharp of Ohio, and Gray of Indiana, being
excused from a pledge to support the caucus platform.

A resolution was adopted declaring that support of the duty
on raw wool should not be construed as an abandonment by the
Democratic party of the principle of free wool.

On June 2 the new bill was introduced into the House, and at
the request of Mr. Underwood referred to the Committee on
Ways and Means. Its text is as follows ; the notes following
each paragraph show the imports under it and the revenue
derived tlierefrom during the last fiscal year and the estimated
imports and revenue under the proposed law.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTHIAL MISCELLANY. 299

A BILL

To reduce the duties on wool and manufactures of wool.

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of
the United States of America in Congress assembled, That on and
after the first day of January, nineteen hundred and twelve, the
articles hereinafter enumerated, described, and provided for shall,
when imported from any foreign country into the United States
or into any of its possessions (exce[)t the Pliilippine Islands and
the islands of Guam and Tutuila), be subjected to the duties
hereinafter provided, and no others ; that is to say :

1. On wool of the sheep, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and
other like animals, and on all wools and hair on the skin of such
animals, the duty shall be twenty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Rceiilts for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a l2month period.

Imports $47,087,293.20 $6(),99 1,000. 00

Duties JB21,128,728.74 $13,398,200.00

Average unit of value per pound on —

Class I $0,230

Class II 80.259

Class III $0,126

All wools $0 1 86

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 44.31 20.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — Free.
Wilson Bill as enacted — Free.
Springer Bill — Free.
Mills Bill — Free.

2. On all noils, top waste, card waste, slubbing waste, rov-
ing waste, ring waste, yarn waste, burr waste, thread waste, gar-
netted waste, shoddies, mungo, flocks, wool extract, carbonized
wool, carbonized noils, and on all other wastes and on rags com-
posed wholly or in part of wool, and not specially provided for
in this act, the duty shall be twenty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $20:^,509 25 $890,500 00

Duties $79,29^.00 $178,100.00

Average unjt of value, per pound . . . $0,352

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 38.96 20.00

Wilson BUI as passed House — 15 per cent, except top waste, slubbing waste,
roving waste, ring waste, and garnetted waste were free.

Wilson Bill as enacted — 15 per cent, except top waste, slubbing waste, rov-
ing waste, and ring waste were free.

Springer Bill — Free.

Mills Bill — Free.

3. On combed wool or tops and roving or roping, made wholly
or in part of wool or camel's hair, and on other wool and hair

300 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

which have been advanced in any manner or by any process of
manufacture beyond the washed or scoured condition, not spe-
cially provided for in this act, the duty shall be twenty-live per
centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Peoposbd Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-njonth period.

Imports f 1,129.80 $732,500.00

Duties $1,188.41 $183,100.00

Average unit of value, per pound . . . $0,537

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 105.19 25.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — Combed wool, 25 or 30 per cent, according
to value. Wool and hair advanced, etc., not specially provided for,
probably dutiable as manufactures not specially provided for, at 40 per
cent.

Wilson Bill as enacted — Combed wool, at 20 per cent. Wool and hair
advanced, etc., not specially provided for, probably dutiable as manu-
factures not specially provided for, at 40 or 50 per cent according to
class and value.

Springer Bill — 25 per cent.

Mills Bill — 40 per cent, as manufactures of wool not specially provided for.

4. On yarns made wholly or in part of wool, the duty shall
be thirty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. endingJune30,1910. a 12. month period.

Imports $326,886.02 $1,373,900 00

Duties $269,296.16 $412,200.00

Average unit of value, per pound ... $0 908

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 82.38 30.00

Wilson BiU as passed House — 30 or 35 per cent, according to value.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 30 or 40 per cent, according to value.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

5. On cloths, knit fabrics, felts not woven, and all manu-
factures of every description made, by any process, wholly or
in part of wool, not specially provided for in this act, the duty
shall be forty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. endingJuneSO, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $6,658,288 07 $24,06^,400.00

Duties $6,465,884.31 $9,624,900.00

Average unit of value, per pound. . . $1.04

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 97.11 40.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — Cloths and knit fabrics, 40 per cent. Felts
for paper maker's use and printing machines, 25 to 35 per cent, accord-
ing to value. Felts, not woven and not specially provided for, 45 per
cent All other manufactures not specially provided for, 40 per cent.

Wilson Bill as enacted — ("lotlis and knit fabrics, 35 to 40 per cent, accord-
ing to value. Felts for printing machines, 25 to 35 per cent, according
to value. Felts not specially provided for, 45 to 50 per cent, according

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 301

to value. All other manufactures not specially provided for. 40 to 50

per cent, according to value.
Springer Bill — Cloths, knit fabrics, and all other manufactures of wool not

specially provided for, 40 per cent. Felts. 45 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

6. On blankets and flannels, composed wholly or in part of
wool, the duty shall be thirty per centum ad valorem : Provided,
That on flannels composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at
above fifty cents per pound, the duty shall be forty-five per
centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 3u, 1910. a 12-monlh period.

Imports $1 68,889.82 $258,400.00

Duties $161,412.70 $101,700.00

Equivalent ad valorem rate, percent, 95.57 30 and 45

Wilson Bill as passed House — 25 to 40 per cent, according to class and value.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 25 to 50 per cent, according to class and value.
Springer Bill — 25 to 35 per cent, according to class and value.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

7. On women's and children's dress goods, coat linings,
Italian cloths, bunting, and goods of similar description and
character, composed wholly or in part of wool, and not specially
provided for in this act, the duty shall be forty-five per centum
ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 3U, 1910, a 12-month period.

Imports $9,218,374.10 $25,408,500.00

Duties $9,481,206.75 $11,433,800.00

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 102.86 45.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 40 per cent.

Wilson Bill as enacted — 40 to 50 per cent, according to value.

Springer Bill — 40 per cent, or 35 per cent if warp of cotton and remainder

of wool.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

8. On clothing, ready-made, and articles of wearing apparel
of every description, including shawls whether knitted or woven,
and knitted articles of every description made up or manu-
factured wholly or in part, and not specially provided for in this
act, composed wholly or in part of wool, the duty shall be forty-
five per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12month period.

Imports $1,776,236.34 $5,066,4(10 00

Duties $1,444,296 87 $2,279,900.00

Average unit of value, per pound. . . . $2 06

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 81.31 45.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 45 per cent.

Wilson Hill as enacted — 45 or 50 per cent, according to class and value.

Springer liill — 45 per cent.

Mills Bill — 45 per cent, except 40 per cent for outside garments and shawls.

302 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKEKS.

9. On webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings, belt-
ings, bindings, braids, galloons, edgings, insertings, flouncings,
fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, ribbons, ornaments, laces,
trimmings, and articles made wholly or in part of lace, embroid-
eries and all articles embroidered by hand or machinery, head
nets, nettings, buttons or barrel buttons or buttons of other
forms for tassels or ornaments, and manufactures of wool orna-
mented with beads or spangles of whatever material composed,
on any of the foregoing made of wool or of which wool is a
component material, whether containing India rubber or not, the
duty shall be thirty-five per centum ad valorem.

Pkesent Act. Pkoposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $77,16L70 .$160,900.00

Duties $67,174.54 $56,300.00

Average unit of value, per pound .... $1.85 .......

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 87.06 35.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 40 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 50 per cent.
Springer Bill — 40 per cent.

Mills Bill — 50 per cent, except 40 per cent on laces and embroideries not
for dress trimmings.

10.^^ On Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille carpets,
figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or
description, the duty shall be forty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 3u, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $62,700.00 $79,300.00

Duties $38,930.65 $31,700.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $2.71

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 62.09 ' 40.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 35 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 40 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

11. On Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay velvet carpets, figured
or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or descrip-
tion, the duty shall be thirty-five per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. PRorosED Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $40,711.00 $51,100.00

Duties $28,554.96 $17,900.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $1.99

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 70.14 35.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 35 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 40 per cent
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY, 303

12. On Brussels carpets, iSgured or plain, and all carpets or
carpeting of like character or description, the duty shall be thirty
per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 3u, 1910. a liiiiionth period.

Imports S8, 222.00 SI 0,000 00

Duties $6,272.77 $3,000.00

Average unit of vahie, per square

yard $1.21

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 76.29 30.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 30 per cent.
Wi son Bill as enacted — 40 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

13. On velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain,
printed on the warp or otherwise, and all carpets or carpeting of
like character or description, the duty shall be thirty-five per
centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 3U, 1910. a 12. month period.

Imports $41,058.00 $5I,7ii0.00

Duties $25,645.89 $18,100.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $1.78

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 62.46 35.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 30 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 40 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

14. On tapestry Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all
carpets or carpeting of like character or description, printed on
the warp or otherwise, the duty shall be thirty per centum
ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimati'd results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12mouih period.

Imports $187.00 $200.00

Duties $120.44 $60.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $1.15

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 64.41 30.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 30 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 42^ per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

304 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

15. On treble ingrain, three-ply, and all-chain Venetian carpets,
the duty shall be thirty per centum ad valorem.

Prksent Act. Peoposed Act.

Results for year Estimnted refults for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $1.675 00 f 1,800 00

Duties $1,077.66 $500.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $0,904

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 64.34 30.00

Wilson Bill as passed House —30 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 32^ per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

16. On wool Dutch and two-ply ingrain carpets, the duty
shall be twenty-five per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12mQntb period.

Imports $22.00 $20 00

Duties $13.75 $5.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $0.80

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 62.50 25.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 25 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 30 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

17. On carpets of every description, woven whole for rooms,
and Oriental, Berlin, Aubusson, Axminster, and similar rugs, the
duty shall be fifty per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. endmg June 30, 1910. a 12 month period.

Imports $4,892,786.43 $5,582,200 00

Duties $2,660,723.16 $2,791,100,00

Average unit of value per square

yard $4 37

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 60.57 50.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 35 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 40 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL, MISCELLANY. 305

18. On druggets and bookings, printed, colored, or otherwise,
the duty shall be twenty-five per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12 mouth period.

Imports S30.. 587.00 $38,800.00

Duties $20,273 13 $9,700.00

Average unit of value, per square

yard $0,837

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 66.28 25 00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 25 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — 30 per cent.
Springer Bill —30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

19. On carpets and carpeting of wool, flax, or cotton, or com-
posed in part of any of thein, not specially provided for in this
act, and on mats, matting, and rugs of cotton the duty shall be
twenty-five per centum ad valorem.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Item. ending June 30, 1910. a 12-month period.

Imports $48,934.25 $62,300 00

Duties $24,455.61 $15,600.00

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per cent, 49.98 25.00

Wilson Bill as passed House — 25 per cent.
Wilson Bill as enacted — ;^0 per cent.
Springer Bill — 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — 40 per cent.

20. Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks, bed
sides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpeting,
made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially provided for in
this act, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on
carpets or carpeting of like character or description.

Wilson Bill as passed House — Text and provision same as above.
Wilson Bill as enacted — Text and provision same as above.
Springer Bill — Same as carpets, 30 per cent.
Mills Bill — Same as carpets, 40 per cent.

21. Whenever in this act the word "wool" is used in con-
nection with a manufactured article of which it is a component
material, it shall be held to include wool or hair of the sheep,
camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals, whether manufactured
by the woolen, worsted, felt, or any other process.

Sect. 2. That on and after the day when this act shall go into
effect all goods, wares, and merchandise previously imported, and
hereinbefore enumerated, described, and provided for, for which
no entry has been made, and all such goods, wares and merchan-
dise previously entered without payment of duty and under bond
for warehousing, transportation or any other purpose, for which

306 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

no permit of delivery to the importer or his agent has been
issued, shall be subjected to the duties imposed by this act and
no other duty, upon the entry or the withdrawal thereof.

Sect. 3. That all acts and parts of acts in conflict with the
provisions of this act be, and the same are hereby, repealed ; but
this section shall not take efllect until the first day of January,
nineteen hundred and twelve.

Present Act. Proposed Act.

Results for year Estimated results for

Summary of Statistics Presented Herein

Present Act. P

Results for year Es

Item. endingJuneSO, 1910. a 12-month period

Raw wool :

Imports .$47,087,293.20 $66,991,000.00

Duties $21,128,728.74 $13,398,200.00

Average unit of value, per pound, . $0,186

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per

cent 44.31 20.00

Manufactures of wool :

Imports $23,057,357.78 $63,831,000. 00

Duties $20,775,820.76 $27,158,000.00

Equivalent ad valorem rate, per

cent 90. 10 42.65

Total revenue $41,904,549.50 $40,556,200.00

Wilson Law (1896) — Average ad valorem rate on manufactures of wool,

47.84.

UNITED STATES CENSUS, 1909.
THE WOOL, AND HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS MANUFACTURES.

The United States Census .Bureau has recently issued prelim-
inary reports on the wool manufacture and the hosiery and knit
goods manufacture of the United States ; a report on the cotton
manufacture will be issued shortly. In the reports on the wool
manufacture the statistics for the woolen and worsted mills are
combined while the statistics for the other branches of the indus-
try are given separately.

When the tabulation of the returns has been completed a report
covering the woolen, worsted, carpet, felt, and wool hat manufac-
ture, which will be comparable with previous census reports on
these industries, will be issued. The reports on the shoddy
manufacture and on hosiery and knit goods will be treated sepa-
rately, as was the case in 1900 and in 1905. The reports given
herewith show a remarkable increase in the manufacture in the
decade 1899-1909, except in the case of wool hats, an advance

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL, MISOELLANY. 307

which appears to be more noticeable in the latter half of the
period. The census was taken at a time when the industry was
in a prosperous condition, and the threat of tariff revision had
not begun to produce its blighting effects.

Particular attention is called by the Census Bureau to the fact
that these reports are -preliminary ^ and subject to such change and
correction as may be found necessary from a further examination
of the original reports.

WOOLEN AND WORSTED MANUFACTURES.

The apparent growth in value of products is from 1^238,745,000
in 1899 to $307,942,000 in 1904 and $415,826,000 in 1909, an
increase of 62 per cent in the period which is as notable as it is
satisfactory.

The cost of materials used is as follows : 1899, $148,087,000;
1904, $197,489,000 ; 1909, $273,466,000 ; and the percentage of
increase from 1899 to 1909 is 85.

These totals, as seems to be unavoidable in all census returns,
contain a very considerable element of duplication owing to the
sub-division of the industry, in consequence of which tlie produc-
tions of one department become the raw material for the next
step in the manufacturing process and the statistics for the
minor processes become part and parcel both in the cost and
value of the final result.

These complications seriously affect, in fact render impossible,
an exact comparison of some of the most important points in
manufacture. The " Cost of Materials Used " and the " Value of
Products " are greatly enhanced, while the items " Capital
Engaged," " Operatives and Others Employed," " Miscellaneous
Expenses," and " Wages Paid " are not correspondingly increased,
so that calculations involving the relations of the second group
of items to the first are misleading and of no value.

The costs of production in the earlier processes properly
belong in the item of total cost, but the cost of yarn, etc., pur-
chased is a doubtful element. A portion of it, no doubt, belojigs
in the general account, and clearly, also, a part of it does not.
Again, in the total value a similar difficulty appears. The values
of the product of the earlier processes, if carried on independ-
ently, appear in the total value twice at least, first as yarn
produced and again in the cloth manufactured. If every estab-
lishment carried on all the processes of manufacture, as formerly

308 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

was the case, such difficulties would not exist, for the cost of the
raw material, wool, for instance, would appear in the value of the
product only in the cloth and not perhaps as tops, again as
yarn and finally as finished cloth. An attempt has been made
in the report to overcome this difficulty by the presentation of a
statement of the " value added by the processes of manufac-
ture," but this does not make it possible to ascertain the true
value of the product which includes this amount, all of the neces-
sary expenses incurred and also all the cost of materials used
after duplications are eliminated. It is much to be regretted
that no system has yet been devised by whicli the actual value
of the product can be accurately ascertained, for the difficulty
becomes accentuated as an industry is more and more specialized
and sub-divided.

The wool '' in condition purchased," both foreign and domestic,
used amounted to 474,751,000 pounds valued at .$136,665,000,
an increase of 144,572,000 pounds in quantity and $57,861,000 in
value over the quantity and value reported in 1899. The equiva-
lent quantity of wool in scoured pounds is 289,703,000 in 1909
and 192,706,000 in 1899 and there was a corresponding increase
in the consumption of other animal fibers.

The consumption of shoddy has decreased in the decade from
68,663,000 pounds to 53,621,000 pounds, owing no doubt to the
increased use of worsted goods, in the manufacture of which, as
a rule, no shoddy is employed. The 40,392,000 pounds of tailors'
clippings, etc., reported were used in the production of the 32,067,-
000 pounds of shoddy made in the mills. This quantity added
to the 21,554,000 pounds purchased makes the total quantity used.

The quantity of raw cotton used decreased in the decade from
40,245,000 pounds to 20,055,000 pounds, equal to 50 per cent.
On the other hand the use of cotton yarns increased 11 per cent,
from 35,343,000 pounds to 39,109,000 pounds. The change
indicates an increase in the quantity of cotton warp fabrics and a
decrease in the production of so-called " union " goods.

An examination of the table of products confirms this view, for
the union fabrics for men's and women's wear decreased from
48,032,000 square yards in 1899 to 27,818,000 square yards in
1909, while the similar cotton warp goods increased from
120,065,000 square yards in 1899 to 159,883,000 square yards in
1909. In addition to the above there was also an increase in the

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 309

quantities of Italian cloths, linings, etc., from 10,157,000 square
yards to 29,608,000 square yards.

The principal part of the wool manufacture is found in the
production of all wool suitings and dress goods, both woolen and
worsted. These increased from 199,245,000 square yards valued
at .1111,641,000 in 1899 to 310,649,000 square yards in 1909,
having a value of $213,668,000. This increase is all on the
worsted side of the industry, for woolen goods for men's wear
decreased in quantity 5 per cent and woolen dress goods, etc.,
26 per cent. The increase of worsted coatings, etc., was from
54,911,000 square yards in 1899 to 120,309,000 square yards in
1909, and in dress goods, etc., from 57,712,000 square yards in
1899 to 105,799,000 square yards in 1909.

Woolen (carded) yarns show a decrease of 10 per cent while
worsted yarns and tops, reported together in 1899, but separately
in the present census, show an increase of 131 per cent. Merino
yarns decrease nearly 2,000,000 pounds, equivalent to 21 per cent.
JSToils show a large increase, 167 per cent, as must be the case
when the immense increase in the production of worsted yarns
is considered.

The reports show a wonderful growth in the industry placing
the American wool manufacture well toward the front as com-
pared with the manufacture of other countries.

The report is as follows :

Washington, D.C, April 4, 1911.

A preliminary statement showing the general results of the
1909 census for establishments engaged in the manufacture of
woolen and worsted goods was issued to-day by the Director of
the Census, E. Dana Durand. It presents a comparative sum-
mary for the 1909, 1904, and 1899 censuses and detailed state-
ments of the quantities and costs of materials used and
quantities and values of products manufactured in 1909 and
1899. It was prepared under the direction of Chief Statistician
William M. Steuart, division of manufactures, by L. D. H.
Weld, expert special agent. The figures are preliminary and
subject to such change and correction as may be found necessary
from a further examination of the original reports.

The statistics do not include the operations of establishments
engaged in the manufacture of carpets, felt goods, wool hats,
hosiery and knit goods, and shoddy, nor independent dyeing and

310 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

finishing establishments, but apply only to those establishments
manufacturing woolen goods and worsted goods. The reports
were taken for the calendar year ending December 31, 1909,
wherever the system of bookkeeping permitted figures for that
period to be secured, but where the business year of an establish-
ment differed from the calendar year, in some instances the
reports relate to this business year.

The word " establishment " as used in the census may mean
more than one mill or plant, provided they are owned or con-
trolled and operated by a single individual, partnership, corpora-
tion, or other owner or operator, and are located in the same
town or city.

THE COMPARATIVE SUMMARY.

Comparative figures for the censuses of 1909, 1904, and 1899
are as follows :

W OOLEN AND WORSTED GoODS COMPARATIVE SUMMAKY ;

AND 1899.*

1909, 1904,

Number of eBtabliahmentB ....

Capital

Cost of materials used

8(iliirie-> and wajjee

Miscellaneous expenFes

Value of products

Value added by manufacture
(products less cost of male-

rialri)

Employees :

Number of salaried ofiScials and

clerks . .

Average numberof watte earners
employed during the year . .

Census.

913

$415,465,000

$273,466,000

$79,214,000

$21,347,000

$419,826,000

$146,360,000

5,325
162,914

1,018

$302,767,000

$197,489,000

$61,433,000

$16,620,000

$307,942,000

$110,453,000

4,324
141,998

1890.

1,221

$256,554,000

$148,087,000

$o0,126,000

$14,036,000

$238,745,000

$90,658,000

3,615
125,901

Per Cent of

Increase

1899 to 1909.

25 1

* The Census Bureau has not published tables corresponding to this for the other branches
of the industry. — Ed.
1 Decrease.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 311

REMARKABLE DEVELOPMENT SINCE 1899.

The comparative figures of the above statement clearly indi-
cate the remarkable development that has taken place in the
industry since 1899. Although the number of establishments
has decreased, denoting a tendency toward concentration, which
has been the rule in the wool manufacturing industry since 1870,
on the other hand the amount of capital reported as invested
shows an increase from $256,554,000 in 1899 to $415,465,000
in 1909, or 62 per cent during the decade. The cost of materials
used increased 85 per cent and the amount paid in salaries and
wages 58 per cent. The number of salaried officials and clerks
increased but 47 per cent and the number of wage-earners only
29 per cent.

The value of products increased from $238,745,000 in 1899 to
$419,826,000 in 1909, or 76 per cent. The greater part of this
increase took place during the second half of the decade ; in fact,
the increase of over $100,000,000 in the five years since 1904 is
far greater than that of any decade prior to 1900 in the history
of the industry.

The value of products represents their selling value or price at
the plants as actually turned out during the census year and does
not necessarily have any relation to the amount of sales for that
year. The values under this head also include the amount
received for work done on materials furnished by others.

QUANTITIES AND COSTS.

The following statement gives the quantities and costs of
materials used in 1909 and 1899, exclusive of mill supplies, and
soap, oil, fuel, etc. :

312 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Materials used — Quantities and Costs: 1909 and 1899.

Item.

Total

Purchased in raw state :
Wool, foreign and
domestic, in con-
dition purchased,
Equivalent of above,
in scoured condi-
tion

Animal hair and fur:

Camel, alpaca, and

vicuna hair . . .

Mohair, domestic

and foreign . .

Buffalo, cow, and

other animal hair

and fur

Raw cotton

Purchased in partially

manufactured form :

Tailors' clippings,

rags, etc

Shoddy

Wool, camel, etc., and
mohair waste and

noils

Tops

Yarns :

Woolen

Worsted

Merino

Cotton

Silk

Spun silk

Linen

Jute, ramie, and other
vegetable fibers . .
Chemicals and dyestuffs,
All other materials
which are compo-
nents of the products,
Shoddy made in mill for
use therein ....

1909.

Pounds.

474,751,000

289,703,000

4,637,000
3,268,000

17,356,000
20,055,000

40,392,000
21,554,000

27,311,000
20,828,000

2,631,000

58,769,000

710,000

39,169,000

120,000

170,000

13,000

1,134,000

32,067,000

Cost.

$251,631,000

$136,665,000

1,416,000
983,000

933,000
2,522,000

2,855,000
3,063,000

7,537,000
14,615,000

1,092,000

55,576,000

236,000

10,492,000

609,000

536,000

14,000

27,000
8,821,000

3,639,000

1899.

Pounds.

330,179,000

192,706,000

1,981,000
3,023,000

20,535,000
40,245,000

33,037,000

15,714,000
5,566,000

5,907,000

25,111,000

3,635,000

35,343,000

60,000

71,000

9,000

1,119,000

35,626,000

Cost.

$136,208,000

$78,804,000

426,000
1,432,000

1,171,000
3,-280,000

4,071,000

3,891,000
2,866,000

2,675,000

19,495,000

6n5,000

6,814,000

291,000

239,000

8,000

57,000
6,595,000

3,428,000

Per Cent of

Increase in

Quantity,

1899 to

1909.

44
50
134

15 2
601!

74
274

55 2
134

80 2

11
100
139

1 Exclusive of the cost of soap and oil, mill supplies, and other items which are not com-
ponents of the products.

2 Decrease.

sfncludedin all other materials.

CHANGES IN THE PAST DECADE.

This statement shows that there have been some interesting
and important changes in the character of materials used during
the past decade. The quantity of wool consumed, in condition
purchased, increased from 330,179,000 pounds to 474,751,000
pounds, or 44 per cent; reckoned on a scoured-wool basis, the
increase was 50 per cent. The quantity of raw cotton consumed

EDITORIAL AND LNDUSTKIAL MISCELLANY. 313

decreased from 40,245.000 pounds to 20,055,000 pounds, or 50
per cent, while the amount of cotton yarn purchased increased
from 35,343,000 pounds to 39,169,000 pounds, or 11 per cent.
The net result is a decided decrease in the amount of cotton
used as a material by wool manufacturers.

The figures also show a marked decrease in the use of shoddy.
The quantity purchased decreased 35 per cent, and the amount
manufactured in woolen mills for use therein fell off 10 per cent.
In 1899 the total amount of shoddy consumed by woolen and
worsted manufacturers was 68,663,000 pounds ; in 1909 it was
only 53,621,000 pounds, a decrease all the more significant when
the growth of the industry is considered. This is explained by
the fact that the manufacture of worsted fabrics, into which
shoddy does not enter as a material to any appreciable extent,
has increased enormously, while the quantity of ivoolen fabrics
in which shoddy is utilized was actually less in 1909 than in
1899.

The quantity of tops purchased as materials increased from
5,566,000 to 20,828,000 pounds, or 274 per cent, and the quantity
of worsted yarn from 25,111,000 to 58,769,000 pounds, or 134 per
cent. These increases are due not only to the rapid growth of
the worsted branch of the industry, but also to the greater
degree of specialization which developed within that branch.
Weavers of worsted fabrics usually purchase their yarn instead
of spinning it themselves, and although worsted spinners usually
comb their own wool, they are purchasing tops to an increasing
extent.

A TABULAR VIEW OF CONDITIONS.

The following statement shows the quantities and values of
the different products manufactured as reported at the censuses
of 1909 and 1899, and clearly manifests the changes in the
character of products manufactured during the decade :

314 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUliERS.

Products — Quantities and Values: 1909 and 1899.

Item.

Total

All-wool woven goods :

Woolen casslmeres,
suitings, overcoat-
ings, etc. ......

Woolen dress goods,
opera flannels, etc. .

Worsted coatings,
suitings, overcoat-
ings, etc. .....

Worsted dress goods,
cashmeres, serges,
etc

Flannels for under-
wear

Blankets

All other all-wool

goods

Union or cotton-mixed
woven goods :

Suitings and overcoat-
ings .

Dress goods, opera
and similar flannels.

Flannels for under-
wear

Blankets

All other union goods.
Cotton-warp woven
■ goods :

Wool-filling cassi-
meres, suitings,
overcoatings, etc. .

Wool-flUing dress
goods

Worsted-filling suit-
ings, overcoatings,
etc

Worsted filling dress
goods

Satinets and linseys .

Linings, Italian cloths,
etc

Cotton-warp blankets,

All other cotton-warp

goods

Upholstery goods and

sundries

Partially manufactured
products for sale :

Woolen yarn, all wool.

Worsted yarn, a 1 1
wool

Merino yarn, wool and
cotton mixed . . . .

Worsted tops and slab-
bing

Mohair and similar
yarns . .

Cotton yarn

Wool card rolls . . .

Noils

Waste

Bhoddy and mungo .

Flocks

All other products . . .
Contract work

Square
Yards.

55,441,000
29,100,000

120,309,000

105,799,000

3,805,000
6,130,000

3,179,000

23,498,000

4,320,000

7,064,000
5,495,000
1,243,000

46,722,000
13,116,000

29,830,000

65,113,000
5,102,000

29,608,000
5,970,000

11,555,000

Poundn.
28,508,000

88,324,000

14,021,000

11,321,000

870,000

2,325,000

138,000

27,489,000

24,852,000

437,000

1,333,000

Value.

$419,826,000

$40,528,000
16,385,000

102,725,000

1,244,000
3,226,000

1,705,000

10,609,000

1,777,000

1,308,000

1,429,000

448,000

12,363,000
2,642,000

15,333,000

14,799,000
912,000

9,089,000
1,902,000

3,975,000

1,805,000

7,504,000

80,396,000

5,666,000

8,027,000

653 000

322,000

83,000

8,939,000

3,501,000

26,000

62,0n0

3,485,000

3,028,000

1899.

Square
Yards.

53,028,000
33,594,000

54,911,000

57,712,000

9,325,000
5,454,000

3,336,000

36,855,000

11,177,000

6,217,000
1,531,000
1,555,000

41,078,000
7,497,000

12,664,000

46,784,000
13,052,000

10,157,000
11,107,000

11,540,000

Pounds.
32,100,000

43,003,000

15,975,000

1,004,000

3,.'i32,000

978,000

12,177,000

8,163,000

430,000

510,000

Value.

$238,745,000

Per Cent of
Increase in

Value,
1899 to 1909.

$38,778,000
12,976,000

43,571,000

16,316,000

2,345,000
2,317,000

1,454,000

17,214,000

3,670,000

1,285,000
562,000
381.000

12,455,000
1,891,000

7,268,000

10.423,000
2,873,000

2,228,000
2,241,000

3,059,000

3,260,000

6,805,000

30.081,0001

4,668,000

924,000

527,000

396,000

3,354,000

1,230,000

70,000

33,000

2,521,000

1,569,000

5
26

136

393

52 »

154

42
688

308
158

46*

10
167
21

298

398

79 8
167
186

638

' Includes tops.

^ Included in worsted yarn.

8 Decrease.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 315

INCREASES IN WORSTED FABRICS.

The most notable features of this statement are the great
increases in quantities and values of worsted fabrics, and the
pronounced decreases in the quantities and values of many kinds
of woolen fabrics produced. Of the all-wool goods, the value of
woolen suitings and overcoatings increased 5 per cent, and woolen
dress goods 26 per cent. Worsted suitings, on the other hand,
increased 136 per cent in value and 119 per cent in quantity, and
worsted dress goods, 231 per cent in value and 83 per cent in
quantity, both showing a much higher value per square yard in
1909 than in 1899. All-wool flannels for underwear decreased
both in quantity and in value, while all-wool blankets decreased
slightly in quantity but gained in value.

Of the union or cotton-mixed goods produced, the value of
men's wear fabrics decreased 39 per cent, and the value of
women's dress goods, 52 per cent. Mixed cotton and wool
blankets showed a gain of 154 per cent in value.

Of goods woven on cotton warps,"wool-filling suitings showed
a slight increase in quantity but a decrease of 1 per cent in value,
denoting a drop in price [)er square yard — due possibly to the
use of inferior materials in this class of goods. Worsted-filling
suitings and overcoatings increased 111 per cent, and linings,
Italian cloths, etc., which are worsted rather than woolen goods,
gained 308 per cent in value. Satinets, linseys, and cotton-warp
blankets decreased both in quantity and value.

On the whole, the values per square yard of cloth manufac-
tured were much higher in 1909 than in 1899 ; among the reasons
for this may be given higher costs of production and an improve-
ment in the general quality of goods made.

The relative amounts of woolen and worsted fabrics produced
are more clearly brought out by combining the items of the
above statement which fall in each of the two classes. In 1899,
the number of square yards of worsted suitings, overcoatings,
and dress goods, worsted-tilling suitings, overcoatings, and dress
goods, and linings, Italian cloths, etc., was 181,228,000, while in
1909 there were 350,659,000 square yards, an increase of 93 per
cent. A combination of the remaining items shows 245,723,000
square yards of woolen cloths made in 1899, and 220,740,000
square yards in 1909, or a loss of 10 per cent.

Of the partially manufactured products made for sale, wool

316 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

waste shows a gain of 185 per cent in value over the 1899 ligures.
The large increase in quantity and value of noils produced for
sale is another evidence of the growth of the worsted branch of
the industry, and the large quantity of worsted yarn wliich enters
the channels of trade is due to the fact that worsted spinning
and weaving are not usually carried on under the same roof.

CARPETS AND RUGS.

The statistics do not include the operations of small establish-
ments which make carpets and rugs from rags and old carpeting,
but they do comprise a few large mills which weave colonial rag
rugs on power looms. The reports were taken for the calendar
year ending December 31, 1909, wherever the system of book-
keeping permitted figures for that period to be secured, but, in
some instances, where the business year of an establishment
differed fro/n the calendar year, the reports related to the former
period.

The word "establishment" as used herein may mean more
than one mill or plant, provided they are owned, or controlled,
and operated by an individual person, partnership, corporation, or
other owner or operator, and are located in the same town or
city.

The following statement gives the number of establishments,
together with the quantity and cost of the principal materials
used, exclusive of mill supplies, soap, oil, fuel, etc., in 1909, 1904,
and 1899 :

EDITORIAL AJSTD INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

317

Carpets and Rugs — Number of Establishments and Quantity and Cost
OF Materials Used: 190y, 1904, and 1899.

Number of establishments ....
Principal materials used — cost . .
Foielgu wool in condition pur-
chased :

Pounds

Cost

Domestic wool in condition pur-
chased :

Pounds

Cost ,

Hair of all kinds :

Pounds

C>.st ,

Cotton :

Pounds

Cost

Tailors' clippings, rags, etc. :

bounds

Cost

Shoddy :

Pounds

Cost

Waste and noils :

Pounds

Co.«t

Tops:

Pounds

Cost

Woolen yarn :

I'ounds

Cost

Worsted yarn :

Pounds

Cost

Merino yarn :

Founds

Cost

Cotton yarn :

Pounds

Cost

Linen yarns :

Pounds

Cost . .

Jute, ramie, or other vegetable
fiber :

I'ounds

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs — cost .

All other materials which are

components of the product —

cost

lOOO.

139

$36,902,000

63,904,000
$11,696,000

231,000
$57,000

6,401,000
$474,000

5,147,000
$533,000

527.000
$21,000

825,000
$56,000

2,732,000
$513,000

112,000
$39,000

25,719,000
$5,036,000

11,293,000
$5,589,000

584,000
$86,000

25,047,000
$4,406,000

8.793,000
$1,606,000

55,592,000
$3,927,000
$1,725,000

$1,138,000

Per cent

1004.

1899.

of
Increase,

1899-1909.

139

$35,701,000 '

133
$25,881,000'

5
43

50,464,000
$10,114,000

51,762,000
$8,077,000

23
45

857,000
$317,000

110,000
$27,000

110
111

6,sn6,000
$594,000

6,190,000
$550,000

13 2

14 2

1,997,000
$251,000

1,944,000
$129,000

165
313

372,000
$14,000

(')
(')

2,298,000
$201,000

744,000
$44,000

2,172,000
$341,000

2,325,000
$306,000

18
68

1,607,000
$254,000

200,000
$96,000

44 s
592

32,431,000
$6,648,000

32,996.000
$5,031,000

22 «
0)

11,356.000
$5,405,000

9,218,000
$3,545,000

23
58

1,036,000
$157,000

238,000
$39,000

145
121

27,422,000
$4,758,000

19,824,000
$2,745,000

28
61

8,228,000
$1,356,000

8,388,000
$1,165,000

5
38

49,120,000
$3,405,(100
$1,467,000

38,846,000
$2,476,0U0
$1,152,000

59
50

$419,000

$499,000

128

^Does not include the cost of soap and oil, mill supplies, and other items which are not
components of the product.
2 Decrease.

''Included in "All other materials."
* Less than one half of 1 per cent increase.

318 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

LARGE INCREASES DURING THE DECADE.

The amount of foreign wool used in the manufacture of
carpets and rugs increased from 51,762,000 pounds in 1899 to
63,904,000 in 1909, or 23 per cent; the cost thereof increased
from f 8,077,000 to $11,696,000, or 45 per cent. In addition, a
considerable quantity of foreign wool is consumed in the manu-
facture of woolen and worsted yarn purchased by carpet manu-
facturers.

During the decade large increases were shown in the use of
cotton, cotton yarn, and yarns of jute and other vegetable fibers.
In 1899 foreign and domestic wool, tops, woolen yarn, and
worsted yarn constituted 55 per cent of the principal materials
used, while in 1909 they formed only 49 per cent. This differ-
ence in the relative consumption of the leading wool materials
is undoubtedly due to the high cost of carpet wools during the
decade.

The following statement shows the kind, quantity, and value
of carpets and rugs produced in 1909, 1904, and 1899 :

Carpets and Rugs — Quantity and Value of Products;

AND 1899.

1909, 1904,

Item.

Census.

1004.

1899.

Per cent
of

Increase,
1899-1909.

Total value

Carpets :

Axminster and moquette —

Square yards

Value

Wilton —

Square yards

Value

Wilton and Wilton velvet —

Square yards

Value

Brussels —

Square yards

Value

Tapestry velvets —

Square yards

Value

Tapestry Brussels —

Square yards

Value

Ingrain, 3-ply —

Square yards

Value

Ingrain, 2-ply —

Square yards

Value

$69,998,000

12,402,000
$13,581,000

4,576,000
$8,738,000

3,961,000
$5,217,000

6,163,000

$5,078,000

12,193,000
$8,854,000

2,361,000
$1,129,000

20,870,000
$5,6i0,000

$61,586,000

6,414,000
$6,369,000

1,298,000
$2,727,000

3,024,000
$3,899,000

8,033,000
$7,755,000

14,099,000
$9,955,000

3,066,000
$1,445,000

30,492,000
$11,842,000

$48,192,000

5,027,000
$4,762,000

t <■'

4 3,587,000
; $4,031,000

2,686,000
$2,980,000

4,280,000 s
$3,743,000

8,737,000
$5,521,000

3,223,000
$1,146,000

36,698,000
$13,222,000

147
185

27 <
14

43*
57*

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

319

Carpets and Rugs — Quantity and Value of Products ;
AND 1899. — Continued.

1909, 1904,

Itbh.

Rugs, woven whole :

Axminater and raoquette —

Square yards

Value

Wilton —

Square yards

Value

Brussels —

Square yards

Value

Tapestry velvets —

Square yards .

Value

Tapestry Brussels —

Square yards

Value •

Ingrain Art Squares —

Square yards

Value

Smyrna carpets and rugs —

Square yards

Value

Other rugs —

Square yards

Value

Partially manufactured products for
sale :
Woolen yarn —

Pounds

Value

Worsted yarn and tops —

Pounds

Value

Merino yarn —

Pounds

Value

Noils —

Pounds

Value

Waste —

Pounds

Value

All other products — value

3,291,000
$3,792,000

767,000
$1,382,000

476,000
$334,000

8,929,000
$3,615,000

5,744,000
$4,479,000

6,132,000
$2,409,000

1,400,000
$1,660,000

2,663,000
$1,062,000

695,000
$130,000

875,000
$425,000

459,000
$97,000

1,621,000

$67,000

$2,329,000

Census.

1004.

1,768,000
$2,107,000

1,097,000
$1,984,000

(=)

{')

2,010,000
$1,510,000

7,136,000
$2,785,000

3,828,000
$4,134,000

406,000
$3o0,000

833,000
$278,000

2,695,000
$1,493,000

776,000
$228,000

859,000
$157,000

4,001,000

$190,000

$2,378,000

1899.

328,000
$342,000

340,000
$546,000

(=)

(")

19,000
$9,000

2,722,000
$1,176,000

3,652,000
$3,681,000

5,111,000 «
$2,392,000 «

1,073,000
$253,000

2,777,000
$1,090,000

10,000
$5,000

674,000
$120,000

330,000

$21,000

$3,152,000

Per cent

of
Increase,

1899-1909.

903
1,009

126
153

30,132
49,667

125
105

62 «
65*

48*
56 ^

35 <
49 «

391
219
26 <

1 Included under Wilton and Wilton velvet.

2 Wilton velvet included with tapestry velvet.

3 Does not include Wilton velvet.
* Decrease.

f' Not reported separately in 1904 and 1899.

6 Does not include the small quantity of rugs made in felt mills.

SUBSTANTIAL GROWTH IN VALUE OF PRODUCTS.

The total value of products increased from .$48,192,000 in
1899 to $69,998,000 in 1909, or 45 per cent, showing a substantial
growth for the industry during the decade. In 1899 the number
of square yards of carpets and rugs was 76,410,000, compared

320 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

with 86,927,000 in 1909. In 1899 rugs, woven whole, constituted
only 16 per cent of the total, or 12,172,000 square yards, while
in 1909 they constituted 28 per cent of the total, or 24,402,000
square yards. Although the census returns showed an increase
in the manufacture of carpets from 1899 to 1904, the number of
square yards manufactured in 1909 was nearly 2,000,000 less
than in 1899.

Of the various kinds of carpets produced during the decade,
Axrainster and moquette showed an increase of 147 per cent in
quantity and 185 per cent in value, and tapestry Brussels increased
40 per cent in quantity and 60 per cent in value. The output
of 2-ply ingrain carpets decreased from 36,698,000 square yards
in 1899 to 20,870,000 square yards in 1909, or 43 per cent, and
the decrease in value was relatively greater. All of the various
kinds of rugs showed remarkable increases except Smyrna, which
decreased 62 per cent in quantity.

The following statement shows the imports of carpets and
rugs, both as to quantity and value, by countries, for the fiscal
years 1909, 1904, and 1899 :

Imports of Carpets and Rugs into the United States for the Year
ENDING June 30, 1909, 1904, and 1899.

Total :

Square yards . .
Viilue

British East Indies :

Square yards

Value

France :

Square yards

Value

Germany :

Sqiiaie yards

Value

Persia :

Square yards

Value,

Turkey (including Egypt) :

Square yards

Value .

United Kingdom :

Square yar-;*"

V;.lue

All other:

Square yards

Value . .

1,042,378
$4,032,512

36,
$139,

17,

54,

$166,

,667
653

252
522

600
970

670,1
$2,937,

166
$40y

74,
$262,

,188
,268

685
994

1904.

844,932
$2,797,308

56,143
$174,613

12,350
$47,310

18,223

$67,8i4

(')

482,698
$1,801,410

224,742
$551,099

50,776
$155,032

1899.

631,547
$1,769,566

34,035
$120,783

11,388
$41,135

10,899
$37,365

(')

297,670
$922,553

235,611
$542,161

41 ,944
$95,569

Per cent

of
Increase,
1899-1909.

65
129

110
52

125
218

29 2
26'

1 Included in " All other."

2 Decrease.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 321

It will be seen from this statement that only high-grade rugs
are imported into the United States angl that the total imports
amount to a very small percentage of the carpet and rug con-
sumption. Turkey supplied more than any other country, the
imports tlierefrom amounting to 670,098 square yards, valued at
$2,937,326, in 1909. The United Kingdom is the next largest
contributor, after which Persia and British East Indies follow in
the order named. The exports of carpets and rugs of domestic
manufacture are insignificant, amounting to only 67,088 square
yards, valued at $66,6.53, for the fiscal year 1909.

FELT GOODS STATISTICS.

The number of felt goods establishments increased from 36 in
1899 to 43 in 1909, or 19 per cent, and the cost of the principal
materials used increased from $3,421,000 to $6,540,000, or 91
per cent.

Raw wool is the most important material used in the industry,
and tlie amount increased from 9,606,000 pounds to 12,410,000,
or 29 per cent, during the decade, while the cost thereof increased
79 per cent. Animal hair ranks next, increasing from 2.820,000
pounds in 1899 to 8,144,000 in 1909, or 189 per cent, while the
cost rose 91 per cent. Wool and other waste and noils increased
from 2,654,000 pounds in 1899 to 4,864,000 in 1909, or 83 per
cent, while the cost gained 121 per cent. Shoddy increased from
712,000 pounds in 1899 to 2,536,000 in 1909, or 256 per cent, and
the cost increased 223 per cent. The quantity of cotton con-
sumed increased from 1,226,000 pounds, valued at $78,000, in
1899, to 1,376,000 pounds, valued at $156,000, in 1909. Further
details appear in the subjoined table, giving the number of
establishments engaged in the manufacture of felt goods, and the
quantity and cost of materials used, not including soap and oil,
mill supplies, and other items which do not form a component
part of the finished product.

GROWTH OF FELT GOODS INDUSTRY.

The growth of the industry is more clearly brought out by the
figures representing the quantity and value of products manu-
factured for the years 1909 and 1899.

The total value of products increased from $6,462,000 in 1899
to $11,853,000 in 1909, or 83 per cent.

322 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Felt goods are produced in great variety and for numerous pur-
poses. Those coming under the head "Trimming and lining
felts, felt skirts, etc.," constitute the largest single item and show
the greatest actual increase for the decade. The quantity pro-
duced was 2,470,000 square yards, valued at $797,000, in 1899, as
compared with 7,604,000 square yards, valued at $1,906,000, in
1909, an increase of 208 per cent in quantity and of 139 per cent
in value. Hair felting shows a notable increase from 125,000
square yards, valued at $57,000, in 1899, to 1,160,000 square
yards, valued at $531,000, in 1909, a gain of 828 per cent in
quantity and of 832 per cent in value. Felt cloth increased
83 per cent in quantity and 152 per cent in value. Endless belts
increased 215 per cent in value. " All other felts " consist
largely of polishing felts and piano felts. The complete figures
are shown in the subjoined summary, giving the quantity and
value of felt goods.

Felt Goods — Number of Establishments and Quantity and Cost of
Principal Materials Used: 1909 and 1899.

Number of establishments

Principal materials used : Total cost

Wool, foreign and domestic, in condition
purchased :

Pounds

Cost

Animal hair

Pounds

Cost

Cotton :

Pounds

Cost

Tailors' clippings and rags :

Pounds

Cost

Shoddy:

Pounds

Cost

Wool and other waste and noils :

Pounds

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs, cost

All other materials which are components of

the product, cost

Census.

1909.

43
$6,540,000 1

12,410,000
f 3,927 ,000

8,144,000
$239,000

1,376,000
$156,000

1,115,000
$57,000

2,536,000
$262,000

4,864,000

$1,220,000

$220,000

$459,000

36
$3,421 ,000 J

9,606,000
$2,196,000

2,820,000
$125,000

1,226,000
$78,000

712,000
$81,000

2,654,000
$563,000
$128,000

$260,000

Per Cent of
Increase,
1899-1909.

189
91

12
100

256
223

121

iDoes not include the cost of soap and oil, mill supplies, and other items which are not
components of the product.
- Included in cost of " All other materials which are components of the product."

EDITOUIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

323

Felt Goods — Quantity and Value of Products: 1909 and 1893.

Item.

Total value

Felt cloth :

Square yards

Value

Eodless belts :

Pounds

Value

Boot and shoe linings :

Square yards

Value

Hair felting:

Square yards

Value

Trimming and lining felts, felt skirts, etc,

Square yards

Value

All other felt goods, value

All other products, value

Census.

Per Cent of
Increase,

1909.

1899.

1899-1909.

$11,853,000

$6,462,000

3,764,000
$1,382,000

2,056,000
$548,000

83
152

3,243,000
$3,418,000

1,114,000 >
$1,085,000

' 215

1,661,000
$514,000

1,053,000
$540,000

58
5 =

1,160,000
$6ol,000

125,000
$67,000

828
832

7,604,000
$1,906,000
$3,550,000

$552,000

2,470,000

$797,000

$2,262,000

$1,173,000

208
139

.532

' Reported in square yards in 1899.

- Decrease.

SHODDY MILLS STATISTICS.

The statistics of shoddy mills cover only the operations of
those establishments which are primarily engaged in the manu-
facture of shoddy, mungo, and wool extract, and do not include
spinning and weaving mills which manufacture shoddy for their
own use. Mills engaged in the cutting of flocks and the clean-
ing and garnetting of wool waste are included with shoddy mills,
as in previous censuses.

The number of establishments was 87 in 1909 and 105 in 1899,
a decrease of 17 per cent.

The total cost of the principal materials used was $4,558,000
in 1909 and $4,567,000 in 1899, a decrease of less than 1 per
cent.

The quantity of raw wool consumed decreased from 422,000
pounds, costing $127,000, in 1899, to 237,000 pounds, costing
$98,000, in 1909, a drop of 44 per cent in quantity and of 23 per
cent in cost. The quantity of rags consumed decreased from
79,623,000 pounds, costing $3,559,000, in 1899, to 64,442,000
pounds, costing $3,046,000, in 1909, a decrease of 19 per cent in
quantity and of 14 per cent in cost.

Increases obtained for all remaining items. Wool and other
waste and noils gained 72 per cent in quantity and 31 per cent in

824 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

cost during the decade. Cotton used increased from 173,000
pounds, valued at $15,000, in 1899, to 293,000 pounds, valued at
$18,000, in 1909. Further details are given in the subjoined
table showing the number of shoddy establishments, etc.

INCREASES IN VALUE AND QUANTITY.

The total value of products of shoddy mills increased from
$6,731,000 in 1899 to $7,434,000 in 1909, or 10 per cent.

The quantity of shoddy and mungo produced was 48,376,000
pounds, valued at $5,699,000, in 1909, as against 39,015,000
pounds, valued at $5,388,000, in 1899, a gain of 24 per cent in
quantity and of 6 per cent in value. The quantity of wool
extract was 5,638,000 pounds, valued at $866,000, in 1909, as
compared with 4,981,000 pounds, valued at $621,000, in 1899, an
increase of 13 per cent in quantity and of 39 per cent in value.
There was an increase of 39 per cent in quantity and 86 per cent
in value in wool waste, a product which is principally cleaned
and garnetted waste to be used in the manufacture of yarn by
wool manufacturers. The quantity of flocks decreased 31 per
cent and the value 28 per cent. " All other products " increased
13 per cent in value. Complete figures appear in the appended
table, giving the quantity and value of shoddy products.

Census reports for the separate establishments are assigned to
the diiferent industries according to their product of chief value;
therefore the statistics for shoddy mills do not represent all of
the shoddy manufactured. In addition to the large quantity
made by woolen mills, principally for their own use, shoddy
products were also manufactured in 1909 in cotton, wool-scouring,
and other mills, to the value of $291,000, including 2,125,000
pounds of shoddy, worth $174,000, and 1,161,000 pounds of wool
waste, worth $81,000.

The total imports of rags, mungo, flocks, noils, shoddy, and
waste entered for consumption into the United States during the
year ended June 30, 1909, were 250,593 pounds, valued at
$94,799, the greater part coming from Great Britain. Shoddy
proper formed a negligible part of the whole. The United
States trade statistics do not give the exports of these commodi-
ties separately, but it is known that the exports of shoddy and
woolen rags have increased remarkably during the past five
years.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

325

Shoddy — Number of Establishments and Quantity and Cost of
Principal Materials Used : 1909 and 1899.

Item.

Number of eetablishraents

Priucipal materials used : Total cost

Wool, foreign and domestic, in condition pur-
chased :

Pounds

Cost

Cotton :

Founds

Cost

Shoddy and mungo :

Pounds

Cost

Wool and other waste and noils :

Pounds

Cost

Tailors' clippings and rags :

Pounds . •

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs, cost

All other materials which are components of
the product, cost

Census.

1909.

$4,558,000 =

237,000
$9S,000

293,000
$18,000

534,000
$49,000

7,568,000
$918,000

64,442,000

$3,046,000

$138,000

$291,000

1809.

105
$4,567,000 2

422,000
$127,000

173,000
$15,000

4,394,000
$699,000

79,623,000

$3,559,000

$111,000

$56,000

Per Cent of
Increase,
1899-1909.

171

44 1

23 >

72
31

19»

141
24

1 Decrease.

- Does not include the cost of soap and oil, mill supplies, and other items which are not
components of the product.
3 Less than 1 per cent decrease.

Shoddy — Quantity and Value of Produ* ts : 1909 and 1899.

Item.

Total value . •

Shoddy and mungo :

Pounds

Value

Wool extract :

Pounds

V^alue . . •

Flocks :

Pounds

Value

Waste:

Pounds

Value

All other products, value

Census.

1009.

$7,434,000

48,376,000
$5,699,000

5,638,000
$866,000

1,438,000
$95,000

2,238,000
$276,000
$498,000

$6,731,000

39,015,000
$5,-388,000

4,981,000
$621,000

2,081,000
$132,000

1,608,000
$148,000
$442,000

Per Cent of
Increase,
1899-1909.

311

281

I Decrease.

326 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
FUR FELT HATS AND WOOL FELT HATS.

The statistics cover the operations of only those establish-
ments engaged principally in the manufacture of fur felt hats
and wool felt hats and therefore do not include the manufacture
of cloth hats and caps, straw hats, or millinery. In the case of
a few establishments which made both wool felt and fur felt hats,
the product which predominated in value determined in each
instance the industry to which such establishment belonged.

FUR FELT HATS.

Fur felt hats are made from the fur of the rabbit, coney, and
nutria. This is the most important branch of the hat industry
and includes the manufacture of all derbies and soft felt hats for
men's wear and also hats for women's use except such as are
made from wool of the sheep, which are reported separately as
« wool felt hats."

The number of establishments increased from 171 in 1899 to
272 in 1909, or 50 per cent, and the cost of the principal niate-
rials used increased from ;ill,830,000 to $17,464,000, or 46 per
cent. The amount of hatters' fur, which is the most important
material used in the industry, increased from 6,166,000 pounds
to 8,566,000 pounds, or 39 per cent. The 406,000 hat bodies
reported as materials in 1909 were purchased principally by
small finishing establishments from other factories which are
engaged in forming hat bodies. The complete figures appear in
the appended table, which shows the quantity and cost of
materials used in 1909, 1904, and 1899.

The total value of products increased substantially from
$27,811,000 in 1899 to $47,501,000 in 1909, or 71 per cent. The
number of fur felt hats produced in 1909 was 2,961,000 dozen,
or 35,532,000 hats. In addition to these there were made in
1909 in establishments engaged primarily in the manufacture of
wool hats, straw hats, and the like, 73,000 dozen fur felt hats,
valued at $863,000, making the total production for the country
36,408,000 hats. During the year ended June 30, 1909, there
were also imported 32,716 dozen fur felt hats, valued at $397,917.

The number of fur felt hat bodies and hats in the rough made
for sale increased from 165,000 dozen in 1899 to 366,000 dozen
in 1909, or 122 per cent, and the value increased from $993,000

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 327

to f 2,704,000, or 172 per cent. The details are shown in the
statement of quantity and value of products at the end.

WOOL FELT HATS.

The number of establishments engaged in the wool felt hat
industry decreased from 24 in 1899 to 17 in 1904, but increased
again to 31 in 1909, a gain of 29 per cent for the decade. The
cost of the principal materials used decreased from f 1,866,000
in 1899 to f 1,847,000 in 1909, and the quantity of raw wool
decreased from 2,713,000 pounds in 1899 to 1,203,000 pounds in
1909, or 56 per cent. This is accounted for partly by the
increase in the use of wool waste and noils from 863,000 pounds
in 1899 to 1,282,000 pounds in 1909, or 49 per cent, and by the
fact that fewer hats were made in 1909 than 1899 in spite of the
increase in number of establishments and value of products.

Increases were recorded in the use of hatters' fur, shoddy, and
wool felt hat bodies, and a decrease in fur felt hat bodies. The
figures are given in detail below.

The total value of products decreased from $3,592,000 in
1899 to $2,457,000 in 1904 and increased to $4,382,000 in 1909, a
gain of 22 per cent for the decade. The number of wool hats
produced was 591,000 dozen, or 7,092,000 hats, an increase of 33
per cent since 1904, but smaller by 27 per cent than the number
produced in 1899. The number of wool hat bodies produced for
sale decreased from 56,000 dozen in 1899 to 54,000 dozen in 1909,
or 4 per cent, while the value increased from $120,000 to
$309,000, or 158 per cent.

In addition to the product reported above, there were manu-
factured during 1909 in fur felt hat, straw hat, and millinery
establishments, 43,000 dozen wool felt hats valued at $667,000.

The total number of felt hats, both wool and fur, and soft and
stiff, produced in the United States in 1909 was 44,016,000.

Statements showing the quantity and cost of materials used
and quantity and value of products manufactured in the felt hat
industries follow :

328 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Fur Felt Hats — Number of Establishments, and Quantity and Cost
OF the Principal Materials Used: 1909, 1904, and 1899.

Items.

Number of establishments

Principal materials used :

Total cost

Hatters' fur :

Pounds

Cost

Fur fell hat bodies and hats in
the rough :

Dozens

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs :

Cost

All other materials which are

components of the product :

Cost

Census.

1009.

272
$17,464,000 1

8,566,000
$9,204,000

406,000
i,575,000

$814,000
?4,871,000

216
$13,558,0001

6,718,000
$6,744,000

212,000
,351,000

,140,000
1,323,000

Per Cent

of
Increase,
1899. 1899-1909.

171

$11,830,0001

6,166,000
$6,377,000

148,000
$883,000

$657,000
$3,913,000

174
192

iDoes not include the cost of fuel, mill supplies, and other materials which are not com-
ponents of the product.

Fur Felt Hats — Quantity and Value of Products: 1909, 1904, and

1899.

Census.

Per Cent
of

Items.

1909.

1904.

1899.

Increase,

1899-1909

Total value :

$47,501,000

$36,629,000

$27,811,000

Fur felt hats :

2,961,000
$43,086,000

366,000
$2,704,000

$1,162,000
$549,000

2,612,000
$34,314,000

89,000
$661,000

$1,093,000
$561,000

1,882,000
$25,385,000

165,000
$993,000

$941,000
$492,000

Fur felt hat bodies and
rough :

hats

in the

122

Value

172

All other products :

Viilue

Amount received for contract work .

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

329

Wool Felt Hats — Number of Establishments, and Quantity and
Cost of Materials Used: 1909, 1904, and 1899.

Items.

Number of eetablishments

Principal materials used :

It^ Total cost

Wool, foreign and domestic, in
condition purchased :

Pounds

Cost . .

Hatters' fur :

Pounds

Cost

Shoddy, mungo, and wool ex-
tract :

Pounds

Cost

Wool waste and noils :

Pounds

Cost

Wool felt hat bodies and hats in
the rough :

Dozens

Cost

Fur felt hat bodies and bats in
the rough :

Dozens

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs :

Cost

All other materials which are

components of the product :

Cost

Census.

1009.

$1,847,0001

1,203,000
$404,000

141,000
$280,000

62,000
$11,000

1,282,000
$661,000

22,000
$83,000

1.000
$9,000

$104,000
$295,000

1904.

1899.

17
$1,202,0001

1,634,000
$496,000

43,000
$57,000

33,000
$3,000

287,000 i
$119,000

12,000
$26,000

24
$1,866,0001

2,713,000
$789,000

121,000
$87,000

$64,000
$437,000

3,000
$1,OUO

863,000
$371,000

5,000
M4,000

8,000
$22,000

$108,000
$474,000

Per Cent

of
Increase,
1899-1909.

56 2
492

17
222

1967
1000

340
493

88 »
592

4 2
38 =

1 Does not include the cost of Boap and oil, mill supplies, and other materials which are

components of the product.
- Decrease.

Wool Felt Hats — Quantity and Value of Products : 1909, 1904,

AND 1899.

Items.

Census.

Per Cent
of

1909.

1904.

IS 99.

Increase,
1899-1909.

$4,382,000

$2,457,000

$3,592,000

Wool hats :

591,000
$3,647,000

54,000
$309,000

$426,000

446,000
$2,290,000

19,000
$100,000

$67,000

811,000
$3,161,000

56,000
$120,000

$311,000

27 1

Wool hat bodies and hats in the
rough :
Dozens

41
158

All other products :

•Decrease.

330 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

THE HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS MANUFACTURE.

The report presents comparative statements of the quantity
and cost of the principal materials used and the quantity and
value of products manufactured for 1909, 1904, and 1899 cen-
svises, and was prepared under the direction of William M.
Steuart, chief statistician for manufactures, by H. J. Zimmerman.

VALUE OF PRODUCTS NEARLY $200,000,000.

There were 1,264 establishments engaged in the manufacture
of hosiery and knit goods in 1909, an increase of 37 per cent
over the 921 establishments reported in 1899 and 17 per cent
over the 1,079 establishments in 1904.

The value of products in 1909 aggregated $198,812,000, an
increase of 108 per cent over the $95,483,000 reported in 1899
and 46 per cent over the $136,558,000 in 1904. The cost of the
principal materials was $85,997,000, an increase of 106 per cent
over the $41,852,000 reported in 1899 and 36 per cent over the
$63,340,000 in 1904. The totals do not include the cost of all
materials, such as buttons, ribbons, and the like, or mill supplies,
soap, oil, fuel, etc. Those establishments which use only hand-
knitting machines in the manufacture of these goods, which, as
stated above, are not included in this report, numbered 110, used
materials costing $750,000 and produced goods valued at
$1,572,000. There were also a number of establishments manu-
facturing hosiery and knit goods, their product of chief value
assigning them to other industries, such as the manufacture of
cotton, silk or woolen goods, clothing, furnishing goods, and
leather gloves and mittens.

INCREASED USE OF COTTON AND COTTON YARN.

In 1909, as in 1899, cotton, raw and in the yarn, was the
largest factor in quantity and in cost of materials, raw cotton
increasing from 49,451,000 pounds in 1899 to 75,331,000 in 1909,
or 52 per cent, and cotton yarn from 131,820,000 pounds to
217,761,000, or 65 per cent. The cost of raw cotton was
$3,562,000 in 1899 and $8,790,000 in 1909, an increase of 147
per cent, while the cost of yarn purchased rose from $22,205,000
in 1899 to $48,326,000 in 1909, or 118 per cent. Formerly it
was the general practice of factories manufacturing hosiery and
knit goods to purchase their cotton yarns, but in recent years a

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 831

number of the larger concerns have installed cotton-spinning
departments and are now producing their own cotton yarns.

LARGE DECREASE IN RAW WOOI,

The quantity of raw wool used, in condition purchased,
decreased from 17,954,000 pounds in 1899 to 7,069,000 in 1909, a
loss of 61 per cent, and the cost from $5,262,000 to ."$2,919,000,
or 44 per cent. Practically all of the decrease occurred since
1904. While the decrease in the use of wool as such is pro-
nounced, the increase in the use of wool waste and noils and of
shoddy must be considered in arriving at the total quantity of
woolen fibers used by the mills in the production of yarn.
Wool waste and noils were used to the extent of 5,276,000
pounds in 1899, with a cost of ^1,488,000, while in 1909 the
quantity was reported as 8,580,000 pounds, an increase of 63 per
cent, and the cost as $2,810,000, an increase of 89 per cent.

Shoddy increased in quantity from 3,771,000 pounds in 1899
to 7,483,000 in 1909, or 98 per cent. The cost was 88 per cent
more in 1909, increasing from $489,000 to $920,000. The
inci-ease in the use of shoddy was wholly in 1904 over 1899, as
there was an actual, though slight, falling off in both quantity
and cost during the latter semidecade.

SOME NOTABLE INCREASES.

Woolen yarn purchased as such increased during the decade
from 2,622,000 pounds to 5,749,000, or 119 per cent, and its cost
from $1,258,000 to $3,580,000, or 185 per cent. Worsted yarns
purchased increased from 5,823,000 pounds to 9,955,000, or
71 per cent, and the cost from $4,865,000 to $9,687,000, or
99 per cent. Merino yarn likewise shows a notable increase
from 1,981,000 pounds in 1899 to 3,974,000 in 1909, or 101 per
cent ; the cost was $642,000 in 1899 and $2,645,000 in 1909, an
increase of 312 per cent.

The relative increase in the quantity of silk and spun silk
yarn used was greater than for any other materials, the per-
centage of increase being 268. The percentage of increase in
cost, 280, was also large — and greater than in any other
material, except merino yarn.

Linen, jute, and other vegetable fiber yarns were used in 1909
to the amount of 242,000 pounds, an increase from 116,000 in

332 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS. '

1899, or 109 per cent, the cost increasing from $111,000 to
$181,000, or 63 per cent. The cost of chemicals and dyestuffs
increased from $1,023,000 to $2,542,000, or 148 per cent, during
the decade.

NEARLY 750,000,000 PAIRS OP HOSE.

Hose and half hose were among the chief products at both
decennial censuses, being 62,365,000 dozen pairs, of the value of
$65,031,000, in 1909, and 29,892,000 dozen pairs, having a value
of $27,233,000, in 1899. Thus the increase in quantity is
109 per cent and in value 139 per cent. The percentage of
increase was more marked in the first half of the decade. The
per cent of increase in half hose was somewhat less from 1899
to 1909 than the increase in full hose, but the per cent of
increase in value was greater.

Shirts and drawers are the most important products manu-
factured. They increased from 15,819,000 dozen in 1899 to
25,386,000 in 1909, or 60 per cent, and their value from $45,158,-
000 to $69,122,000, or 53 per cent. In connection with these
garments should be considered the manufacture of combination
suits, which increased from 974,000 dozens in 1899 to 2,478,000
in 1909, a gain of 154 per cent, the value rising from $3,576,000
to $14,692,000, or 311 per cent. These figures are striking and
point out the increased use of these garments.

IMMENSE GAIN IN SWEATERS.

Cardigan jackets, sweaters, fancy jackets, etc., are the products
showing the greatest percentage of increase, both in quantity and
in value; in quantity from 594,000 dozen in 1899 to 2,139,000
dozen in 1909, or 260 per cent, and in value from $3,499,000 to
$21,248,000, or 507 per cent. The increase since 1904 is very
noticeable and is due almost entirely to the item of sweaters.

The large increase shown under " Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc.,"
is due greatly to the increased use of scarfs, and the large
increase in the value may be attributed to the more expensive
materials being used in their manufacture.

Boot and shoe linings decreased from 10,406,000 square yards
in 1899 to 9,727,000 in 1909, or 6 per cent, and in value much
more — that is, from $2,205,000 to $1,210,000, or 45 per cent.
This does not represent the entire output of these goods, because

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 333

a number of establishments engaged in the boot and shoe busi-
ness manufactured their own linings.

The quantity of cotton yarn manufactured for sale increased
from 2,419,000 pounds in 1899 to 7,457,000 in 1909, a gain of
208 per cent, while the value increased from $422,000 to
$1,568,000, or 272 per cent. These increases are remarkable,
but may be explained in part by the practice of companies own-
ing several hosiery mills to install in one of them a spinning
department, the output of which is used in the several mills. In
instances of this kind the yarn thus transferred is considered as
manufactured for sale and is given a value. Only small quanti-
ties of wool, worsted, and merino yarns were manufactured for
sale.

The manufacture of knit gloves and mittens shows a con-
sistent increase from census to census in both quantity and
value — in value from $4,244,000 to $7,260,000, or 71 per cent,
and in quantity, from 1,899,000 dozen pairs to 2,363,000, or 24
per cent.

THE TAI5ULAK SUMMARIES.

The following statements give the number of establishments,
quantity, and cost of principal materials used, and quantity and
value of the different products returned for 1909, 1904, and
1899 :

334 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Hosiery and Knit Goods — Number of Establishments and Quantity
AND Cost of Principal Materials Used: 1909, 1904, and 1899.

Item.

Number of establiBhmentB

Principal materials : Total cost . . .
Raw cotton :

Pounds

Cost

Wool in condition purchased:

Pounds

Cost

Wool waste and noils :

Pounds

Cost

Shoddy:

Pounds

Cost

Cotton yarn :

Pounds

Cost

Woolen yarn :

Pounds

Cost

Worsted yam :

Pounds

Cost

Merino yarn :

Pounds

Cost

Silk and spun Bilk yarn :

Pounds .

Cost

Linen, jute, and other vegetable
fiber yarns :

Pounds

Cost

Chemicals and dyestuffs, cost . .

Census.

1900.

1,284
$85,997,000

75.331,000
$8,790,000

7,069,000
$2,919,000

8,580,000
$2,810,000

7.483,000
$920,000

217,761,000
$48,326,000

5,749,000
$3,580,000

9,955,000
$9,687,000

3,974,000
$2,645,000

980,000
$3,597,000

242,000

$ 1^1,000

$2,542,000

1904.

1,079
$63,340,000

50,587,000
$5,869,000

17,301,000

$6,154,000

6,020,000
$1,712,000

7,489,000
$924,000

161,500,000
$54,373,000

4,839,000
$2,798,000

8,790,000
$7,458,000

2,569,000
$1,119,000

321,000
$1,200,000

63,000

$,56,000

$1,677,000

921
$41,852,000

49,451,000
$3,562,000

17,954,000

$5,262,000

5,276,000
$1,488,000

3,771,000
$489,000

131,820,000
$22,205,000

2,622,000
$1,258,000

5,823,000
$4,865,000

1,981,000
$642,000

266,000
$947,000

116,000

$111,000

$1,023,000

Per Cent

of
Increase,
1899-1909.

37
105

52
147

451

65
118

119

185

101
312

268
280

109

148

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

335

Hosiery and Knit Goods — Products by Kind, Quantity, and Value
1909, 1904, AND 1899.

Item.

Products : Total value

Cotton, merino, and all-wool half
hoae :

Dozen pairs

Value

Cotton, merino, and all-wool hose :

Dozen pairs

Value

Cotton, merino, and all-wool
shirts and drawers:

Dozens

Value

Cotton, merino, and all-wool
comljination suits:

Dozens

Value

Gloves and mittens :

Dozen pairs ... ...

Value

Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc. :

Dozens

Value

Cardigan jackets, sweaters, fancy
jackets, etc. :

Dozens

Value

Shawls :

Dozens

Value

Fancy knit goods, wristera, etc. :

Dozens

Value

Boot and shoe linings :

Square yards

Value

Wool, worsted, and meriDO yarn :

Pounds

Value

Cotton yarn :

Pounds

Value

All other products, value ....
Contract work

Census.

$198,812,000

26,627,000
$26,433,000

35,738,000
$38,598,000

25,386,000
$69,122,000

2,378,000
$14,692,000

2,363,000
$7,260,000

874,000
$3,168,000

2,139,000
$21,248,000

214,000
$879,000

937,000
$2,366,000

9,727,000
$1,210,000

488,000
$217,000

7,457,000

$1,51)8,000

$11,014,000

$1,047,000

1904.

$136,558,000

18,144,000
$17,439,000

26,000,000
$26,1.52,000

19,707,000
$56,339,000

1,434,000
$6,644,000

2,261,000
$5,556,000

589,000
$1,775,000

812,000
$8,345,000

4.35,000
$1,293,000

582,000
$2,119,000

11,769,000
$1,249,000

492,000
$346,000

3,305,000

$654,000

$8,4:<9,000

$208,000

1899.

$95,483,000

13,250,000
$11,030,000

16,642,000
$16,203,000

15,819,000
$45,158,000

974,000
$3,576,000

1,899,000
$4,244,000

343,000
$1,002,000

594,000
$3,499,000

158,000
$329,000

285,000
$951,000

10,406,000
$2,205,000

135,000
$77,000

2,419,000

$42-',000

$6,513,000

$274,000

Per Cent

of
Increase,
1899-1909.

101
140

115
138

144
311

155
215

260
507

35
167

229
149

7J
45 »

261
182

208

272

336 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

COST OF LIVING IN AMERICA AND EUROPE.

THE SIGNIFICANT REPORT OF THE BRITISH BOARD OF
TRADE AND THE "THUNDERER'S" COMMENTS ON IT.

A FULL summary is published in the " London Times " of April
12, 1911, of the important report of the British Board of Trade
on " The Cost of Living in American Towns " as compared with
towns in the United Kingdom, which has attracted so much
attention from public men and students on both sides of the
Atlantic. Only brief fragments of this report have appeared in
the newspapers of the United States. The " Times " devotes an
editorial leader to a consideration of the salient points of the
report, declaring that its chief value is "for the serious student
of social and economic conditions."

The " Times " emphasizes as the main lesson of the report the
fact that " the workman in America enjoys an enormous advantage
over his fellow in England." " He earns more than two and a
quarter times as much money and works shorter hours for it ; so
that his hourly rate of earnings is as 240 to 100, or pretty nearly
twice and a half as much. Against that enormous difference in
wages there is something to be said in the way of expenditure.
Rent is twice as high and food is about one-third higher than in
England, but the cost of living altogether is only as 152 to 100,
or about half as much again."

The "Times" leader adds:

It further appears from the report that the advantage enjoyed
by this country in regard to the cost of food is even less than it
looks in the summary comparison. A workman living on the
American scale only pays 25 per cent .more for his food in the
United States than he would in England. Most men would cheer-
fully accept the condition of paying 25 or even 38 per cent more
for their food in order to get 130 per cent more pay. And when
the food items are scrutinized the difference is seen to be even
less in regard to important articles. British beef and mutton
are actually dearer than American, and pork is much dearer.
The items in which the American prices are really much higher
are potatoes and bread; but that means baker's bread bought
in the loaf, which is little eaten by working-class families in the
United States, as the report points out. The bread on which
they chiefly live is made at home, and flour only costs 3d. a
stone more. That is not a ruinous difference, and, therefore,
so far as bread and meat are concerned, the British housewife
has but small advantage. These results, we must confess, are a

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 337

little surprising; but there is no doubt about the care and
accuracy with which the data have been collected. It is clear
that prices have not risen so much in recent years in the United
States as we have been led to suppose, and that wages have risen
far more rapidly.

The " Times' " summary of the report is as follows :

A Report on the " Cost of Living in American Towns " was
issued yesterday by the Board of Trade [Cd. 5609]. It is the
fifth of a series which has already embraced the United Kingdom,
Germany, France, and Belgium ; and, like the previous ones, it is
tlie result of a special inquiry carried out in a number of selected
towns. The subjects covered are the same — namely, wages,
hours of work, housing and rents, food prices and family expen-
diture ; but the time of the inquiry when the data were collected
was February, 1909, which somewhat spoils them for exact com-
parison with the statistics for other countries, collected mainly
in October, 190.5. The difference is noted in the Report, which
contains a statistical comparison between the United States and
the United Kingdom, and allowance is made for it in regard to
these two countries so far as it can be calculated. The towns
selected for the inquiry are twenty-eight in number; they include
all the great cities, with the exception of San Francisco and
many representative industrial centers. The River Mississippi
has been taken as the western boundary of the area investigated,
because the main urban and industrial development has taken
place in the States lying between the Mississippi and the Atlantic.
They comprise about one-third of the total area of Continental
United States exclusive of Alaska, but contain more than three-
fourths of the total population.

SPECIAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES.

In a prefatory note Mr. G. R. Askwith draws attention to
certain broad features which differentiate the United States from
the United Kingdom for the purposes of the present inquiry.
He points out that the towns investigated are scattered over an
area nine times greater, and in general represent a less advanced
stage of urban development. The United States is still primarily
a great agricultural community ; the proportion of the occupied
population engaged in agriculture is nearly three times as high
as in this country. He further notes the differences in climate
and physical environment within the area investigated, which
extends from Duluth, on Lake Superior, in the north to New
Orleans in the south ; the Federal Constitution of the States,
which have their own Legislatures and codes of law ; the absence
of a common body of labor legislation ; and the cosmopolitan
character of the population, due to the vast and constant stream
of immigrants and to the native colored stock. These conditions

338 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

complicate investigation and make it peculiarly difficult to ascer-
tain the facts actually representative of working-class conditions.
Account has been taken of the geographical and ethnological
differences by dividing the towns into groups according to their
situation and by presenting the family budgets of income and
expenditure on a nationality basis, according to the country of
birth claimed by the head of the family.

Exclusive of New York, which is treated as the metropolis, the
towns fall into five geographical groups thus : New England,
6; other Eastern States, 4; Central, 6; Middle West, 5 ; Southern,
6. The distribution is open to some criticism. The great indus-
trial States of New York and Illinois are each represented by
their capitals only — New York and Cliicago — and are thus put
on an equality with such comparatively unimportant States as
Kentucky, Indiana, and Tennessee. On the other hand, Massa-
chusetts is allowed five towns, Georgia three, and Minnesota two,
which are really three. Georgia is particularly over-represented;
it is a typical colored State, but less so than South Carolina, which
is omitted. These are, however, minor points. Broadly speak-
ing, the varying features of urban America are well and fully-
represented, though in regard to housing and some other condi-
tions it is a pity that no specimen of "welfare" or "model" pro-
vision on a large scale by employers of labor has been included.

The trades selected for comparative investigation in regard to
wages are building, engineering, and printing, as in the previous
reports on other countries; but the sections dealing with the
individual towns contain details of other industries and much,
valuable information which is not applicable to general compari-
sons. The latter are liable to be somewhat misleading unless
corrected by reference to other and more detailed particulars.

SUMMARY COMPARISON.

The conclusions of most general interest are those which
embody comparisons between American and British conditions.
They are fully treated in a section of the Report, and are sum-
marized in Mr. Askwith's prefatory note as follows :

" Summarizing now the results of the international comparison,
it appears that the ratio of the weekly wages for certain occupa-
tions in the United States and England and Wales respectively
at the dates of the two inquiries is 243 : 100 in the building
trades, 213 : 100 in the engineering trades, 246 : 100 in the print-
ing trades, and 232 : 100 in all these trades together. Allowing
for a slight advance in wages in England and Wales between the
dates of the two inquiries the combined ratio would be 230 : 100.

'•'The weekly hours of labor were found to be 11 per cent
shorter in the building trades in the United States than in Eng-
land and Wales, 7 per cent shorter in the printing trades, but 6

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MIS(^ELLANY. 339

per cent longer in the engineering trades, the ratio shown by all
the occupations in these three trade groups together being 90 : 100.

"As regards rents, the American workman pays on the whole
a little more than twice as much as the English workman for
the same amount of house accommodation, the actual ratio being
207:100; the minimum oi the predominant range of rents for
the United States towns as a whole exceeding by from 50 to 77
per cent the rnaximum of the range for towns in England and
Wales for dwellings containing the same number of rooms.

" The retail prices of food, obtained by weighting the ascer-
tained ])redominant prices according to the consumption shown
by the British Budgets, show, when allowance is made for the
increase which took place in this country between October, 1905,
and February, 1909, a ratio of 138 : 100 for the United States
and England and Wales respectively."

Putting these details together and assuming that an English
workman with an average family maintained under American
conditions the standard of expenditure on food to which he had
been accustomed, Mr. Askwith concludes that his wages would
be higher in the United States by about 130 per cent, with
slightly shorter hours, while on the other hand his expenditure
on food and rent would be higher by about 52 per cent. The
General Report, after re-stating these calculations, adds at the
conclusion of the section dealing with this part of the subject:

"Thus, according to this ratio, the money earnings of the
workman in the United States are rather more than two and one-
fourth times as great as in England and Wales, and, since there
is no proof that employment is more intermittent in the United
States than in this country, a much greater margin is available,
even when allowance has been made for the increased expendi-
ture on food and rent. . . .

"The margin is clearly large, making possible a command of
the necessaries and conveniences and minor luxuries of life that
is both nominally and really greater than that enjoyed by the
corresponding class in this country, although the effective margin
is itself, in practice, curtailed by a scale of expenditure to some
extent necessarily and to some extent voluntarily adopted in
accordance with a different and a higher standard of material
comfort."

340 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUREKS.

WAGES IN ENGLAND AND AMERICA.

The summary statistical comparison between the two countries
in regard to wages is given in the following table :

Occupation.

Building Trades :

Bricklayers

Stonemasons

Carpenters 1

Joiners f

Plasterers

Plumbers

Painters

Hod Carriers and
Bricklayers' La-
borers

Engineering Trades :

Fitters

Turners

Smiths

Patternmakers . . . .

Laborers

Printing Trades :

Hand Compositors
(job work)

Predominant Range of Weekly Wages.

England and Wales
(October, 1905).

S. d. s. d.

37 6 to 40 6

37 2 " 39 4

36 2 " 39 4

m 6 " 41 8

35 4 " 39 9

31 6 " 37 6

24 4 " 27 0

32s. to 36s. •)
328. " 3f)S. /
32s. " 36s.
34s. •' 38s.
18s. " 22s.

288. " 33s.

United States (Feb-

ruary,

1909).

110

0 to 125

3 '

' 110

9 '

' 90

100

0 •

' 119

6 '

' 112

0 '

' 85

0 '

' 68

4 '

' 74

8 '

' 85

6 '

• 91

6 '

' 43

9 '

' 81

Ratio of Mean Pre-
dominant Wage in
the United Slates
(February, 1909) to
Mean Predominant
Wage in England
and Wales (Octo-
ber, 1905) taken as
100.

270 I ^^-^
f 210
I 210

280

266

217

231

203
203
225
231
203

246

Arithmetic Means ■

The Building Trades . . .
The Engineering Trades
All above Occupations. .

243
213
232

The figures relate, it should be noted, to different periods, as
pointed out above. They are corrected by taking account of the
changes in the English rates between 1905 and 1909. In the
building trades no change occurred, but engineering rates
advanced about 1^ per cent and printing rates about 2^ per cent.
The effect is to lower the mean ratio of American to English
rates from 232 to 230 : 100. The Report discusses the question
whether the ratio thus arrived at fairly represents the relative
level of men's wages in the towns investigated, or whether the
selected occupations tend either to exaggerate or minimize the
real differences. On this point it observes, while the combined
ratio yielded by the figures in the above table appears to give an
approximately correct general indication of the relative rates of
remuneration for town occupations as between the two countries,
so far as they can be determined within the limits of the present

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

341

inquiry, the comparative figures appear to be somewhat weighted
in favor of the United States, and should not be pressed to an
undue extent.

HOURS COMPARED.

The following table gives the corresponding details with regard
to hours of work:

Average Hours of Labor per
Week (excluding intervals).

Ratio of Average Hours
of Labor in the United
States (February, 1909)
to those in England and
Wales (October, 1905)
taken as 100.

Occupation.

England and
Wales (Octo-
ber, 1905).

United States

(February,

1909).

Building Trades:*
Briclilayers

53
52

53i
53^

52i

53
53
53
53
53

52^

46
46i

47J

46i

48f

} ''^ {
56
56|

56;i^

J 90
\90

Stonemasons

Carpenters \

Joiners /

Plasterers

Plumbers

Painters

Hod Carriers and Brick-
layers' Laborers

Engineering Trades :
Fitters

89
93

106

Turners

Smiths

106
106

Patternmakers

Laborers

106
106

Printing Trades :

Hand Compositors (job
work)

r The Building Trades

Arithmetic Means -| The Engineering Trades

( All above Occupations

106

*The hours of labor stated for the building trades are for a full week In summer in both
countries.

In regard to hours, no modification is required on account of
discrepancy in the dates, because there has hardly been any
change in England since 1905. A marked difference will be noted
between the building and engineering trades. In the former —
and to a less extent in printing — the American hours are much
less than the English, whereas in engineering the position is
reversed. With regard to the validity of the combined ratio as
a general index of comparison the Report states, ''there is little
doubt that the percentage figure is somewhat low for the United
States." But it is claimed that the comparison is a fair one and
that it provides a basis of calculation of the hourly rate of wages

342 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

similar to that made in the preceding inquiries. When wages
and hours are put together the hourly rate of earnings in
America works out at 240 against 100 in England, or nearly two
and one-half times as high.

Rents Compared.

Number of Rooms

Predominant Range of Weelily Rents.

Ratio of Mean Predomi-
nant Rent in the United
Htates to that in Eng-

per Dwelling.

England and Wales.

United States.

land and Wales, taken
as 100.

Three rooms ....

Four rooms

Five rooms

Six rooms

s. d. 8. d.

3 9 to 4 6

4 6 " 5 6

5 6 " 6 6

6 6 " 7 9

8. d. s. d.

6 9 to 9 7

8 8 " 12 0

11 6 " 14 11

13 0 '' 17 4

198
207
220
213

Arithmetic M*

209

The average weekly rent per room works out at 2s. 7|^d. in
America, against Is. 3d. in England ; it includes rates, as in
England, so far as taxation is comparable.

EooD Prices.

The predominant retail prices of the principal articles of food
are as follows :

Predominant Range of Retail Prices.

Ratio of Mean Pre-
dominant Price in the
United States (Febru-

Commodity.

England and

Wales (October,

1905).

United States
(February, 1909).

ary, 1909) to that in
Ennland and Wales
(October, 1905) taken
as 100.

2d.

7d.

Is. to Is. Id.

Is. 2d.

2^d. to 3|d.

8d. " lOd.

4^d. " 52^d.

3d. " 4d.

7^2*1. ^' 8id.

5d. " 6d.

7id. " 9d.

4d. " 5d.

7id. " 8W.

7d. " 9d.

2fd., 3d.
lOd.

|ls.4d.tols.5|d.

5^d. "Sjd.
ll^d. " Is. l^d.
lOfd. " Hid.

4|d. " 4^d.

1 6d. " 8d.

1 e^d. " 8id.

5|d. " 7|d.
8|d. " lOd.

144

Cheese '' "

Butter " " 1

Potatoes per 7 lb

Flour " 7 " ....

Bread per 4 lb

Milk per qt

143

126

233
139
223
129

Beef per lb 1

Mutton " " 1

Pork " "

Bacon " "

104

116

81
116

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

543

With regard to the English prices and the date of collection,
it is estimated that in 1909 they had risen by 3 or 4 per cent.

In order to ascertain the actual bearing of prices on the lives
of the people it is necessary to take into account their habits in
regard to the kind and quantity of food usually consumed. This
is ascertained by analyzing a number of typical family budgets
and obtaining the average quantity of each food consumed ; the
quantity multiplied by the price gives the cost.

Cost of the Average British Workingman's Budget (EXCLuniNO Com-
modities FOR WHICH Comparative Prices cannot be given) at the
Predominant Prices paid by the Working-classes of (1) England
AND Wales and (2) the United States.

Quantity

in
Average
Hrilish
Budget.

Predominant Range of Retail PriceB.

Cost in Pence nf
Quantity in Column 2.

Commodity.

England and

Wales (October,

1905).

United Stetcs
(February, 1909).

England

and
Wales.

United
States.

Sugar

Cheese ....
Butter

Potatoes . . .

Flour

Bread

Milk

Beef

Mutton ....

Pork

Bacon

5J lb.
% lb.
2 lb.

17 lb.

10 lb.

22 lb.

5 qts.

4ilb.
lilb.

\ lb.

\-\ lb.

2d. per lb.
7d. per lb.
Is. l^d. per lb.

2^d. to 3id. per

7 lb.
8d. to lOd. per

7 lb
4](I to o.M. per

4 lb.
3d. to 4d. per

qt.
6?d. per lb.
6|d. per lb.

7id. to S-^d. per

lb.
7d. to9d, per lb.

25d., 3d. per lb.

10<l. per lb

Is 4d to ls.5id.

per lb.
55d. to 8id. per

7 lb.
Hid to 1/1.1 per

7 lb.
103d. to ll.'.d.

i.er 4 lb
4:Jd. to \'iA. per

qt
(id to 8d. per lb
6M. to 84d. per

'lb.
53d. to 7id. per

lb.
8.',d. to lOd. per
'lb.

d.
101

26i

12|

27i
17i
30 .i

4
12

d.
IH
7i
33i

175

Gli

22^

31i
11

Total cost of the i

ibove , . .

163i

234i

( England and Wales,

Index numbers -J I'nited States, Febru

1 Adiusted for Fehrnjirv

October, 1905;

ary, I90'J

, 1909

100
100

143
138

On the basis of the average American woi-kingman's budget
the relation is 100 to 125. That is to say, an English workman
would pay 38 more per cent for food in America (jn his ordinary
scale, but an American only pays in the United States 25 per
cent more than he would in England.

344 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

A LOOPHOLE IN RECIPROCITY.

CONGRESSMAN MONDELL OF WYOMING SOUNDS A WARNING
AGAINST FREE WOOL FROM CANADA.

A MAJORITY of the Republican members of the House of
Representatives voted a second time against the Canadian reci-
procity agreement when it came up a few weeks ago in the Sixty-
second Congress. A majority of the Republican Senators are
known to be opposed. One motive which has influenced Western
Senators and Representatives to refuse to follow a Republican
President in advocacy of this measure is a recognition of the
fact that it virtually means free wool so far as concerns the
Dominion of Canada.

Sheep are now dutiable at f 1.50 a head if one year old or
older, with 75 cents a head on lambs less than one year old.
The Canadian agreement makes sheep and lambs absolutely free
of duty, and makes it possible for Canadian wool growers to
raise their flocks on cheap land along the border, drive them
into the United States at shearing time, and have the sheep
sheared and their wool sold here free of duty.

This is a serious menace to the wool-growing interests of all
the border States. Hon. Frank W. Mondell, the able and vigor-
ous Representative from Wyoming, set forth the facts clearly in
a speech in Congress on the reciprocity agreement, saying :

We had a beautiful illustration in tlie House the other day of
that delightful condition of innocence of knowledge which leads
men to blindly pursue economic heresies without regard to con-
sequences. During the reading of the Canadian reciprocity bill
for amendment, the gentleman from Washington (Mr. La Follette)
offered a very sensible amendment and explained its purpose,
which was to" prevent the driving of sheep across the Canadian
border to be shorn on the American side and then driven back
and the wool sold here, thus securing our market without pay-
ing our duty of 11 cents a pound. The vociferous jeers which
greeted this amendment and its explanation would have really
been funny, if it were not for the fact that they brouglit vividly
to mind the dangers to which American industries are now
exposed.

Of course, the gentlemen who joined in these jeers do not
know — I suppose they ought not to be expected to know —
that there are in the United States over 25,000,000 head of
sheep, which are bred and grazed on the open range in large
flocks, which are constantly on the move ; whose summer and

EDITOKIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 345

winter ranges and lambing and shearing grounds are oftentimes
separated by 50, 75, 100, and 150 miles. There is no difficulty
whatever and no appreciable additional expense in moving such
flocks 50 or 100 miles or more to shear. Ten millions or more of
such sheep occupy the territory immediately contiguous to the
Canadian line, west of the Great Lakes, in a region having
similar climatic conditions to those of the adjacent regions of
Canada. It does not pay under free wool to raise sheep in
Alberta, Saskatchewan and British Columbia, but the Canadian
reciprocity bill allows the free importation of sheep from Canada
into the United States, and under tliat provision the sheep busi-
ness along the Canadian border for 1,500 miles can be carried on
just as it is in the same territory south of the line, and sheep
grazing within 100 miles or more of the border can without diffi-
culty or considerable expense be driven over the line into the
United States, shorn, and the wool enter our markets without the
payment of duty.

The duty on this class of wool is 11 cents a pound, and about
7^ pounds per head is the average clip per sheep in that region.
That means a saving in duty of over 80 cents on the fleece of
each sheep, and who is bold enough to say that the American
market for Canadian mutton, with a saving in duty of 80 cents
on each animal per annum, the next few years will not see at
least 10,000,000 sheep along tlie border in Canada ?

I am not a prophet ; I am not prophesying that this will occur,
but I know of no reason why it should not. It is one of the
probable effects of the passage of the Canadian reciprocity bill.
The loss to our Treasury on the fleeces of that number of sheep
would be $8,000,000, to say nothing of the loss to the American
farmer by having that quantity of wool, duty free, brought into
competition with his production. And yet, in the face of the
probability — the certainty, to an extent at least — of the very
operation to which I have referred, the very proper and reason-
able amendment of the gentleman from Washington met only the
jeers of ignorance on that side. The trouble with the free trader
and the tariff revenue advocate is, as I have pointed out, he goes
blindly in ignorance or in defiance of the facts which control the
commerce and industry of the world.

GEE AT BRITAIN AND GERMANY— A CONTRAST.

Pointing the moral of Germany's advance under protectionism
and Great Britain's laggard growth under free trade, a writer in
the Sheffield " Daily Telegraph " says :

We have been spending an hour or two over the newest
Blue Book, the Statistical Abstract of Foreign Countries, which
was issued this week end. There is romance in the heaviest

346 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

looking Blue Book for those who have wit enough to abstract it,
or vision sufficiently keen to look behind the masses of figures to
the living people they represent.

For example, what is implied in the fact that the population of
Russia increases by something like 2,000,000 a year, while we add
less than a fourth of that to our numbers ? Or what light is cast
upon the future when we realize that Germany's increase is very
nearly double our own — 900,000 per year as compared with
500,000 per year ?

When to that is added a contrast between our own enormous
emigration and Germany's very slender movement in that direc-
tion, we begin dimly to see that the foreign politics with which
our grandchildren may have to deal will be very different from
those that interest us.

In Germany the birth rate is 32 per 1,000, in this country it is
25. Is it any wonder that German statesmen, realizing all this,
should cast envious eyes upon the broad areas over which floats
the Union Jack ?

Turning to another page we find a list of the amounts raised by
various countries in import duties. Here are some of them :

United States

Germany

United Kingdom ...

Russia

France

Italy

It will be seen from the righthand column, which we have
worked out from a list of populations given on another page of
the return, that this country has a heavier tariff taxation per-
head than any other country in the world.

Now, it is admitted by all statisticians, free trade or otherwise,
that the consumer pays every penny of the tariff duties that we
levy. That is not so in the case of other countries.

Of Germany's 10s. lOd. per head, the foreign manufacturer
pays at least a third, and probably a half — something between
3s. 6d. and 5s. 5d. In the case of the United States the propor-
tion is certainly higher.

In actual practice the people of Germany and America and
France will pay at the most 6s. to 7s. per head as compared with
our 14s. 2d. And yet we label ourselves Free Traders !

We are a nation of humorists.

England is the greatest maker of cotton goods in the world.
Long may she retain her lead. We wish we could say that she
was increasing it, but the facts, unhappily, are all the other way
about. Other nations are creeping up perilously near.

Total.

Per Head.

In Millions.

8. d.

£61

13 10

10 10

14 2

3 9

10 2

7 4

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 347

For example, in 1860 America exported 1,767,686,338 pounds
of cotton. That went to

Pouuds.

England 1,264,136,782

Germany 66,072,526

The rest of the countries of the world took 437,477,030 pounds
between them.

We travel along fifty years and come to 1910, and this is how
the account stands :

Pounds.

England 1,222,279,124

Germany 943,828,571

with 1,040,600,531 pounds for the rest of the world.

We still have a lead, but it is not the lead it was 50 years ago.
Then we took 2 pounds in 3 of all the raw cotton America
exported. Now we take rather over 1 in 3. Then Germany took
but 1 pound in 27 ; now she takes 1 in every 3^.

She gains ground every decade, while we, if we have not lost
it, have stood practically still. And her greatest and swiftest
progress began when she adopted a tariff system.

THE ATTACK ON THE WOOL SCHEDULE.

PULLING DOWN. THE FABRIC OF AMERICAN PROSPERITY

AS A FOREIGN OBSERVER SEES IT.

{From the Canadian Textile Journal.)

The present unsatisfactory state of the woolen and worsted
branches of the great textile industry of the United States shows
how detrimental to a nation's commerce may be even the talk of
radical alteration in the policy which has brought them to such
a high state of prosperity. The pity of it is that so much of
the outcry against protection on wool and woolens and against
Schedule K has been brought about through a desire for sensa-
tion and based on ignorance of facts. It is not averred that the
woolen schedule in the United States tariff is perfect in all
details. But that the principles on which it is based are fair
ones, and conduce to the development of the industry, to the
prosperity of a very large number of citizens, and this without
bringing hardship to any other classes in the community, is
amply proven by its results.

Now we are told that wool ought to be free of import tax
into the United States, because the land has become too valuable

348 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

to be used for the rearing of sheep. What nonsense ! Some
land may have become more profitable when used for other pur-
poses, just as history shows that land which was once profitable
for grain raising has been found to give better profits in dairying
or under fruit. The best agricultural authorities, however, agree
that, even in comparatively thickly settled farming communities,
it is good economy for each farm to possess at least a small flock
of sheep, both because of their intrinsic money value as wool
and mutton producers, and because of the beneficial influence
they exert on the soil. But there still remain large sections of
land in both Canada and the United States where sheep rearing
would become the most profitable branch of husbandry to under-
take. Even supposing it were not good practice to raise these
useful animals on valuable eastern lands, which is far from being
the case, surely such an argument cannot apply to the deserted
and semi-deserted farms of New England, and still less to huge,
sparsely settled districts of the newer West, even though the
inroads of the grain-raiser have broken up the great territorial
ranches of the past. And if it was right for the old sheep
farmers of the East and the newer sheep farmers of the West to
enjoy tariff protection on their product, is it any the less right
that the wool raising of the present and the future should receive
similar encouragement ?

There i's good politics and good economy in carrying out the
idea of a nation being as largely self-supporting as possible. In
the wool and woolen industries, Canada has failed in this respect
and the United States succeeded, largely for similar reasons ; i.e.,
the absence or presence respectively of protection. The enemies
of wool protection appear to want both countries to be in a simi-
lar plight — at the mercy of foreign manufacturers and of climatic
seasons. For here is a point to be considered. The wool clip in
any one country is liable to vary very greatly with weather and
other conditions, giving rise to great fluctuations in prices. The
United States crop, of course, is subject to such variations in
common with other countries, although it compares favorably in
that respect. Now, with the duty removed from raw wool, there
is bound to be a material reduction in the herds of sheep, with a
corresponding diminution in wool production, as history proves
only too well. The American industry would be to that extent,
therefore, subject to outside influences in a manner extremely
detrimental to its welfare. Economically and politically, there

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 349

can be no question of the importance of keeping up the present
ratio of sheep to population, and, in fact, increasing it. Such
points as these, however, are treated with sublime indifference
by the Yellow Press, which continues to bludgeon the industry
without any idea seemingly that it is " knocking" other interests
of the people of the United States of even greater importance.

THE NEW COMPETITION OF JAPAN.

FIRST FOREIGN WOOLEMS ARE EXCLUDED, THEN NATIVE
GOODS ARE SHIPPED ABROAD.

Amkrican cotton manufacturers who have lost a great part of
their market in north China because of the aggressions of the
Japanese will have some sympathy with British woolen manu-
facturers who see the beginning of the end of their profitable
commerce with the Orient. The new Japanese tariff imposes
prohibitive duties of from 250 to 300 per cent on the heavy army
cloths and similar fabrics manufactured in Batley, Dewsbury
and other well-known English districts. Japanese mills capable
of producing tliese fabrics have been established. The Japanese
people are determined to secure this market for themselves.

All the concessions that Japan makes in the new trade treaty
with Great Britain are regarded by British manufacturers as
nominal and not real. Says " Men's Wear," London, in editorial
comment :

The details of the Japanese Tariff Treaty have been published
during the past week, and while our far Eastern allies have in
the concessions made given evidence of their good will towards
us, it cannot be said that the reductions in the proposals are
adequate to remove the disabilities under which Englisli mer-
chants and manufacturers must in future deal with Japanese
distributors. Of course, the tariff is protective in the highest
degree, and intended to give a safe field to the scores of mills
and factories now either in operation or projected in connection
with the textile trade. Not much more than a one-third conces-
sion could be expected in view that we have nothing to give as
an exchange bargain ; and no doubt in a very few years Japanese
textiles will be entering this market on a scale calculated to
cause embarrassment to some of our own producers. . . .
Factories for textile production are building with astonishing
rapidity, and our own profit at the present time must probably
be looked for in the supply of the essential machinery. We

350 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

advise export clothiers with far Eastern ambitions to study the
text of the new treaty which has been issued as a Parliamentary
white paper.

First, the British woolen manufacturers are to lose their pres-
ent market in Japan. Second, the development of the native
Japanese wool manufacture is soon to threaten British manu-
facturers with Oriental competition right on their own ground at
home. If Japanese woolen mills can deal so disastrously with
British woolen mills as this, what is to be said of the prospect
of Oriental competition on the wool manufacturing industry of
America, with its wages twice as high as those paid to British
operatives ? In the pending revision of the tariff a new force
must for the tirst time be reckoned with — the rivalry of the
coolie labor of Japan. Of what use is it to bar these coolie
laborers out of the United States if the protective tariff is to be
cut down to a point where the products of this coolie labor
employed at home can be poured into the United States to dis-
place the products of American mills ?

Thus the shadow of the Yellow Peril falls across the face of
affairs in Washington.

THE ENGLISH SHODDY TRADE.
{Froyn the London Chronicle^

Batley is one of the towns where shoddy is made into suits.
It is near Dewsbury, but not of it. The rivalry between Dews-
bury and Batley is like the rivalry of next door neighbors who
fling things into each other's backyards. Batley is noted for two
things ; rags and farthings. I believe, but I am not sure, that
Batley is the only town in England where there are penny-
farthing tram fares. The fare from Batley to Dewsbury is a
penny-farthing ; and the conductor of each car carries a supply
of farthings in his pouch, I am sorry for the Batley children,
who stand little chance of getting halfpennies while the supply
of farthings continues. And you can't get much for a farthing
— even in Batley.

But to return to the rag trade. I was privileged to go through
what is probably the largest rag business in the country, and I
was conducted by a gentleman who spends several months in the

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 351

year on the continent buying up the rags of different countries.
In his ofl&ce were glass cases or cabinets containing samples of
rags which he treasured as if they were so much valuable ore.
He wore a kind of butcher's smock, and when he talked about
rags he lowered his voice respectfully. After climbing many
flights of stairs we came upon a kind of threshing machine which
was vomiting rags by the hundredweight. The machine was a
cleaner, and it threshed dust and waste from the rags as a
threshing machine separates grain from the husk.

FROM RAG BAGS TO HOP FIELDS.

" What do you make out of the dust and waste ? " I asked
facetiously.

"It is sent to Kent, where it is used to fertilize the hop
fields."

Profit, like wonders, never ceases in Batley. In a large, airy,
well-lighted room fifty or sixty girls were busy sorting rags.
There were pure woolen rags, which cost eightpence a pound,
out of which £3 3s. suits are made, and rags which are made
into strips for binding young saplings in the parks. Eags were
shown to me that cost 4Jd. a pound, and I was asked to compare
them with the rags that cost lid. a pound. I could not see any
difference, but to my conductor they differed as much as a duck's
egg differs from the egg of a hen.

He handed me a fragment of cloth and passed it lovingly
through his fingers, with the remark : " That's a bit of good stuff ;
German army's new uniform. Notice the color — green-gray.
That's the result of much experiment. I have watched a
battalion of German soldiers manoeuvring in the fields, and you
could scarcely see them in the grass. A khaki uniform would
have been easily visible."

" Yes, it's good stuff, all wool, and it used to cost in rags £60
a ton ; but I wish I had never seen it."

"Patriotism or profit?" I inquired.

" How would you like to lose twopence a pound ? " he went
on. "During the experiments uniforms were made for only one
or two regiments, and when you consider that it takes the rem-
nants of 5,000 uniforms to make a ton of rags, you can imagine
that there was a scarcity in the market. Well, we managed to
get all there was, and a very good thing we made out of it. We
bought all we could at £59 a ton, then the German Government

352 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUHERS.

started making gray-green uniforms by the tliousand, and the
stuff poured in, with the result that the price dropped to £40 a
ton, where it stands now, and we were left with our original
bargains. Oh, 3'^es. You have to keep your wits about you in
the rag trade."

We discussed the uniforms of other countries, samples of each
being contained in the big rag bags. " See these two grays, one
is the uniform of the Italian army and the other of the Belgian
army. They are pretty much the same, but the Italian cloth is
better dyed. This red stuff goes to make the breeches of the
French army, those pieces of khaki come from our Indian army,
that saucy-looking cap belonged to a Bavarian officer, and this
light green is worn by the German forest rangers, whilst that
bundle of khaki and blue is sported by the soldiers of the Mikado."

" N"ow what do you think this is ? " He picked up pieces of
strong cream cloth. " This comes from the tirst-class carriages
on the French railways. It is sent over here and made into light
mantles for ladies, and very good mantles, too."

Walking from room to room, divided into huge bins, each con-
taining many tons of rags, I gained some idea of the immense
business done in the cast-off clothes of the nations. " If it is
not an impertinent question," I hazarded, " what is the approxi-
mate value of the rags in this place ? "

" There's about £10,000 worth on two floors," he replied, care-
lessly, as he lovingly handled a bundle of new black worsted.
'' This stuff's worth £30 a ton."

" That's your best line ? "

"We've some new white flannel over there that costs £6 10s.
a hundredweight. Sh-sh ! "

" What's the matter? " I exclaimed, jumping back.

TAKING CARE OF THE CATS.

" It's only one of the cats. They run wild on these floors.
We encourage them to keep down the rats. I haven't seen a rat
about the place for weeks. At one time the place was infested
with them. You will notice that basins of milk are placed for
the cats ; we have a man who makes it his business to feed them."

We halted before one of the large bins, and my guide thought-
fully patted the huge pile of rags wliich had come pouring down
a shoot from the room above. " I will let you into a trade secret.
Some of these rags are being sent back to the country fron» which

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 353

they came, sent back at a profit, of course. You must remember
that this is the market for the world's rags, and that freights are
cheap. Take the German rag merchant, for instance. He may
have tons of rags which are no use for his particular purpose.
He has not got the right blend. We buy them, mix them with
other kinds of rags, which makes the blend he requires, and send
them back again. There is one country — I won't name it —
with which we do a large trade in reexported rags. Any dealer
in rags must keep pace with the fashions. As the fashions
change, so the demand for certain varieties of rags increases, and
that demand must be met."

" What puzzles me," I confessed, " is how you or somebody
else makes these rags into cloth. They are all different colors,
qualities and sizes. How do you do it? "

He laughed. " You remind me of a friend wliom I took
through a rag mill some time ago, — ' what 1 want to know,' said
he, ' is how the d — 1 you manage to sew these pieces of rags
together ? ' "

I joined in tlie laugh, but still i)leaded ignorance. He led the
way to his private office, and ojiened one of the cabinets I have
mentioned. He took out the small bundle of varicolored rags.
"Those," he said, " are worth 3d. a pound, and this " — reaching
for another cabinet — "is worth 9d. a j)0und."

FROM RAGS BACK TO CLOTH.

He held in his hand what looked like a mass of colored virgin
wool. "This wool, or woolen, is maile from these rags, and it
is worth more than much English wool. It is shorter in fiber, of
course, than virgin wool, but that is all the difference. You will
have some idea now how cloth is made from rjigs. The rags are
first passed through heavy rollers, something after the style of a
domestic wringing machine, and as they emerge they are caught
by a many-tootlied revolving cylinder, which tears or teases the
rags back into wool, which is like the raw cotton you get in
Lancasliire. And the process of spinning and weaving is very
much the same as employed in yonr cotton mills. Once you
have the rags pulled into wool it is a sim[jle process re-convert-
ing them into cloth, or shoddy, as it is faujiliarly known."

1 began to understand. 1 saw tlie whole art of the shoddy
business in a flash. By a skilful and judicious blending of rags
that cost 8d. a pcmnd with rags that cost 2^d. a ])0und, or less, a

354 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUTACTURERS.

fairly serviceable cloth could be manufactured at a good profit.
If the more expensive rags were used the cloth so manufactured
would be almost as good as the original article. But, alas, there
are new rags and old rags. There are the clippings from mer-
chant tailors' warehouses, remnants of cloth that have never been
worn, and there are rags that have seen good service in many
countries,

THE PHILOSOPHY OF CLOTHES.

Kipling was wrong when he asserted that the East and West
could never meet! A remnant of the robe of a Chinese man-
darin and the section of the frock coat of an English peer may
be, and probably are, united in a pair of trousers made for a
German mechanic. The entire army of a South American
Republic is clothed in uniforms manufactured from the rags of
all countries.

I can quite understand that strangers are not altogether
welcome in the shoddy mills of Batley, Ossett, and neighboring
towns. Each mill has its pet secrets. If you could probe these
secrets you would understand how it is possible to buy a com-
plete suit of clothes for a gu^inea, or even 15s. And a word in
the reader's ear. Much of the cloth for which fancy prices are
paid is nothing more or less than shoddy made from rags —
rags that have been stored in Dewsbury and made up in Batley.
To the making of clothes — like books — there is no end. Every
man is at the mercy of his tailor.

All the same, there is something thrilling in the idea that one's
waistcoat was made from the trousers of a German Uhlan, that
one's coat consists of parts of a Turk's robe, together with one
leg of a French zouave's breeches, nicely varied with a Dutch
girl's stockings ; whilst one's trousers are composed of rags from
six different countries. Also one's wife ought to be impressed
with the thought that she may stroll in the park with the
upholstering of a French first-class railway carriage draping her
graceful shoulders.

Sartor Resartus was not the last word in the philosophy of
clothes.

EDITOEIAL AXD INDUSTRIAL MISCELLAXY. 355

THE LINEN INDUSTEY ABROAD.*

The following estimates of the numbers of flax spindles and
linen looms in France, Germany, Belgium, Austria-Hungary, and
Italy have been obtained from reliable sources by the British
consular officers in the countries named :

France. — The number of flax spindles in France is about
500,000 and of linen looms about 18,700.

Germany. — The number of flax spindles in Germany is
estimated at 330,000 and of mechanical looms at from 20,000 to
25,000.

Belgium. — The total number of flax spindles in Belgium is
approximately 325,000, of which 235,600 are in Ghent and 24,500
in Courtrai, the remaining 64,900 spindles being divided between
the towns of Alost, Ath, Bavicliove, Bellaire, Eyne, Lauwe,
Lokeren, Ninove, and Tournai.

There appear to be some 16,273 linen looms in Belgium, of
which 8,773 are in Ghent and 5,000 in Courtrai, the remaining
2,5U0 looms being found in Alost, Ath, Calcken, Eecloo, Gulleg-
hem, Iseghem, jNIalines, Moorseele, Roulers, Waereghem, Waer-
schot, and Ruysbroeck near Brussels.

Austria- HuiKjary. — The present number of flax spindles is
given as 285,996 in Austria and 8,500 in Hungary. These are
divided between 28 firms in Austria and 3 in Hungary.

The number of linen looms is not known. It is estimated at
from 6,000 to 7,000 machine looms and 20,000 to 25,000 hand
looms. Many of these, however, particularly of the hand looms,
do not work linen exclusively, but also often half linen and even
cotton.

Italy. — The number of flax spindles in Italy is estimated at
113,452. No estimate of the number of looms could be obtained.

Russia. — According to the consular report for 1908 on the
trade of Moscow, the number of flax spindles in Russia in 1907
was 405,430, of which 367,670 were spinning spindles and 37,760
twisting spindles. The number of linen looms in 1907 was
12,380, of which 11,581 were power looms and 799 hand looms.

INTERNATIONAL FLAX SPINDLE STATISTICS.

According to a recent issue of Flachs und Leinen (Austria),
the results of the census of flax spindles instituted by the Inter-
national Federation of Flax and Tow Spinners, which was con-
fined to the affiliated associations, were as follows :

* Daily Consular and Trade Reports, June 14, 1911.

356 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Number of spindles.

Austrian flax spinners 266,000

Silesian and Saxon linen spinners 170,000

West German flax spinners 1 10,424:

Belgian flax and tow spinners (inclusive of factories in Ghent) . . . 290,286

Russian flax spinners 362,382

Belfast flax spinners 623,000

French syndicate of flax, hemp, and tow spinners 480,000

Total 2,302,092

BRITISH LINEN INDUSTRY.

American Consul Henry S. Culver wrote from Cork a year ago
that $70,000,000 is invested in the linen industry in Ireland,
where there are 935,000 spindles and 36,000 power looms.
England has only 50,000 spindles and Scotland 160,000. The
output of linen piece goods in 1907 was 220,722,000 yards,
valued at $30,000,000, while the output of highly finished linen
fabrics was several million dollars more.

According to British census returns, the employees in linen
mills of the United Kingdom number about 96,000, whose
average earnings in the pay week of September, 1906, was $2.90.
For those who worked neither less nor more than full time the
average earnings was $2.92. The average weekly earnings of
foremen working full time in Irish mills was $8, roughers $5.11,
sorters $5.26. Boys tending the hackling machines averaged
$2.05 for full time and 81 cents weekly for half time. Women
form 58 per cent of the employees of linen factories in the
British Isles ; the average weekly earnings of those who worked
full time was $2.19 for line spreaders, $2.16 for tow carders,
$1.95 for drawers and back minders, $2.22 for rovers, $2.45 for
spinners, $2.72 for winders, and $2.78 for weavers, the usual
number of looms tended by each weaver being two. The average
for girls was $1.64 when tending one loom and $1.86 when tend-
ing two looms.

Allowing for all stoppages and on the basis of the average
earnings per head of all emi)loyed in an ordinary week, the earn-
ings per head of the mean weekly number employed was $143.43
in 1906.

The total exports of linen goods from the United Kingdom in
1910 aggregated over $46,000,000. Of the $30,000,000 linen
piece goods exported, a little over one-half was sold in the United
States.

QUARTERLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MAIJKKT. 357

QQARTEIILY REPORT Ob' THE HOSTOX WOOL MAIIKRT
FOR JANUARY, FEBRUARY, AND MARCH, 19U.
Domestic Wools. (George W. Benedict.)

Ohio, Pennsylvania,
Virginia.

(WASHKD.)

XX and above . . .

4 Blood

AND West

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fiue . . .
J Blood . . .

Fine Delaine

Michigan, Wisconsin, New Yokk,

ETC.
(WASHED.)

Fine

i Blood

January. February. March.

30 @ 31

29 ® 30

34 @ 35

33 ® 34

32 @ 33

33 @ 34

22 @ 23

29 ,@ 30

28 ,g 29

27 @ 28

26 g 27

30 ® 31
28 g 29
33 ig 34

32 (@ 33

31 @ 32

33 ® 34

21 @ 22

28 g 29

27 la 28

26 (g 27

25 ^ 26

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)
Fine ....
4 Blood . . .
i " ...

Fine Delaine

Kentucky and Indiana.

(unwashed.)

i Blood

Braid

Missouiii, Iowa, and Illinois.

(UNWASHED.)

i Blood

Braid ,

Texas,
(scoured basis.)

12 monlliB, line, and fine medium . .

6 to 8 mouthc, fine

12 months, medium

6 to 8 months, medium

Kail, tine and fine medium

" medium

California.

(scoured BASIS.)

Free, 12 mouths

" 6 to 8 months .

Fall, free

" defective

1'erritory Wool: Montana, Wyo-
ming, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, etc.
(scoured basis.)
Staple, fine and fine medium . . . .

" medium .

Clothing, fine and fine medium . . .

" medium

New Mexico. (Spring.)
(scoured basis.)

No. 1 ■

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

New Mexico. (Fall.)

(scoured BASIS.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

Georgia and Southern.
Unwashed

32 (g 33

32 g 33

31 ig .32

32 g 33

20 @ 21

28 @ 29

27 (g 28

26 @ 27

25 S 26

28 @ 29
27 ig 28
22 @ 23

27 @ 28
25 i@ 26
22 e 23

57 @ 59
52 ig 53
52 @ 63
47 ® 48
47 g 48
42 @ 43

54 ig 55

50 @ 51

43 g 44

34 @ 37

60 @ 62

56 @ 57

55 @ 56

50 @ 52

54 g 56
45 g 47
35 @ 37
34 ® 35

43 @ 44

37 @ 39

31 (ft 33

28 (g 30

23 (g 24

31 g 32

31 ,g 32
30 i§ 31

32 g 33

20 S 21

27 (g 28

26 g 27

25 (g 26

24 @ 25

27 @ 28
26 ® 27
22 3 224

26 g 27

24 a 25

21 (g 22

55 g 57

50 § 51

50 g 51

45 ;@ 46

45 g 46

41 g 42

53 @ 54
48 @ 50
42 @ 43
34 @ 36

58 @ 60

54 @ 55

53 ig 54

48 (g 50

53 @ 54

44 ig 45

35 (g 36

33 @ 34

42 g 43
36 <g 37
30 (g 31
28 @ 29

22 g 23

29 @ 30

28 S 28^

32 @ 33

31 @ 32

31 ® 32

32 @ 33

20 (g 21

27 & 28

26 3 27

25 ig 26

24 g 25

30 3 31

30 g 31

29 @ 30

31 (g 32

19 (g 20

26 3 27

25 3 26

24 3 25

23 3 24

26 ® 27
25 3 26
21 3 22

25 3 26
23 3 24
20 3 21

50 (S 52

48 & 49

48 3 49

43 3 44

44 3 45
40 3 41

50 @ 52
45 3 47
40 3 42
33 3 55

53 3 55
50 3 52
48 3 50
43 3 45

50 3 51

43 3 44

34 3 35

32 3 33

41 3 42
35 3 36
29 3 30

27 3 28

22 3 23

1»10.

35 3 36
33 3 34
39 3 40
39 3 40
37 a 38
37 3 38

26 3 27
35 3 36
35 3 86
33 3 34
29 3 30

38 3 39
38 3 39
36 g 37
36 3 37

24 g 25
34 3 35
33 3 34
32 3 33
28 3 29

35 3 36
33 3 34

32 @ 33
31 3 32

27 3 28

70 3 71
64 3 65
64 3 65

58 3 60

59 3 60
52 3 53

64 3 66
60 3 62
51 3 53
38 3 43

70 3 71
64 3 65
64 O 65
60 3 62

65 3 66
55 a 57
43 3 45
38 3 40

52 3 53
45 3 47
40 3 42
37 3 38

28 3 30

358 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Domestic Wool.

Boston, March 31, 1911.

The wool market during the quarter under review (January, February,
and March) has been one of keen disappointment to all dealers in wool.
Anticipating as they did a fairly active goods market following two unprofit-
able seasons, it was hoped that the demand for wool would at least be suffi-
cient to keep values steady and allow holders to dispose of their stocks
before the new clip was ready for market. The season was not far advanced,
however, before it became evident that manufacturers were not meeting with
much success in marketing their goods, and raw material soon felt the
depressing effect of these conditions. Prices for a while held fairly steady,
but the inevitable law of supply and demand soon became operative and
values began to be irregular, followed before long by an almost demoralized
condition of the trade.

It must be noted here that the primal cause of these unsatisfactory condi-
tions was the fear of adverse tariff legislation upon the calling of an extra
session of Congress March 4th.

Territory wools, being in the largest supply, were naturally the first to
weaken, but fleeces and scoured wools shared in the general decline.

Half blood grades were in best demand and have brought relatively higher

values than the finer grades. The market for | blood wools has been

particularly slack.

George W. Benedict.

Pulled Wools. {Scoured basis.) (W. A. Blanchard.)

Extra, and Fine A

A Super

B Super

C Super

Fine Combing . .
Medium (Jorabing
Low Combing . .
(Jalifornia, Extra .

Jan.

54 ffl
50 n
43 a

33 @
53 @
48 @
43®
52 @

1911.

Feb.

53 @63

48 (g 52
42 (g 46
33 @ 37
52 @ 54
47 ig 50
42 @45
52® 57

March.

50 ® 60
45® 48
40 ®43
32 @35
50 @ 52
45 @ 47
40 ® 42
50 ® 55

March.

65 @ 72
68 ® 62
50 ® 55
35 @ 40
60 @ 65'
55 @ 58
50 ® 53
65 ® 68

Remarks.
The year opened with a more confident feeling in business, but expectations
of improvement were short-lived, and, before January had closed, a break in
prices was general. The decline was still more marked in March, particu-
larly in A and B supers. These grades at this season of the year are usually
taken by the worsted spinners, but regular lines of combings were in suffi-
cient supply, and the price-level low enough, to fill the demand from this
source. The woolen mills bought a fair amount of pulled wool, but on a
hand-to-mouth basis. As a rule pullers were disposed to meet all reasonable
offers and the quarter closed with comparatively light stocks in first hands.

W. A. Blanchard.

QUAHTEKLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 359

Foreign Wools. (Madgek & Avery.)

AuBtralian Combing:

Choice

Good

Average

Australian Clothing:

Choice

Good

Average

Sydney and Queensland :

Good Clothing .

Good Combing

A ustralian Crossbred :

Choice

Average

Australian Lambs :

Choice

Good

Good Defective

Cape of Good Hope :

Choice

Average

Montevideo :

Choice

Average

Crossbred, Choice

Knglish Wools :

Sussex Fleece

Shropshire Hogs

Yorkshire Hogs

Irish Selected Fleece . . .
Carpet Wools :

Scotch Highland, White . .

East India, Ist White Joria .

East India, White Kandahar

Donskoi, Washed, White .

Aleppo, White

China Ball, White

" " No. 1, Open . .

" " No. 2, Open . .

Jan.

@41

@38

@37

@38

@36

@ 38

@38

@40

g36

@ 45

■a 40

® 36

@35

(g 33

@36

(g 33

@ 40

@42

-g42

g38

@23

g 30

@ 26

g 33

® 32

IS. 24

g21

@15

Feb.

40 ig41
35 @ 37

34 g 36

41 @ 43

35 @ 38

35 (g 36

36 @38
36 g 38

38 a 40

33 @ 36

42 @ 45

39 @ 40

35 g 36

34 @ 35
32 g 33

36 @37
32 @ 33
36 @ 40

40 (g 42
40 g 42
36 @ 38

22 @ 23

29 g 30

25 (g 26

32 g 33

31 g 32

22 @ 24

19 g 20

13 @15

March.

40 @41

35 g 37

33 @ 35

40 g 42

35 (§37

34 S 36

36 §38
36 @ 38

38 @ 40

33 g 36

42 @45

39 @ 40

35 @ 36

34 @ 35
32 ® 33

leio.

March.

41 ® 43

39 S 41

36 @ 37

40 ig 43
39 ig 4U

37 & 59

39 3 41

40 @ 43

38 ® 41

34 @ 36

42 @ 45
38 3 41

35 @ 37

30 g 33

36 © 37 38 e 35

32 @ 33 31 @ 32

36 ® 39 86 3 38

40 3 42 ! 42 S 43

40 @ 42 , 36 ® 37

36 g 38 I 36 ® 37

22 @ 23

30 @ 31
25 g 27

31 ff 33
31 (g 33
22 @ 23
19 @ 21
13 ® 15

22 e 24

30 a 32
26 g 27

31 @ 33
31 e 33
19 © 21
18 ® 20
13 e 14

Foreign Wools.

The market for foreign wool during the quarter ending in March was char-
acterized by an absence of general demand, owing to the fact that outside of
carpet wools the manufacturers were not generally employed to the full
extent of their machinery. One or two concerns, however, were persistent
buyers of crossbred wools at steadily declining prices, and large quantities of
these wools passed from the hands of dealers into the warehouses of con-
sumers.

English wools, owing to their relative high cost compared with American
crossbred avooIs, were in very limited request, and the falling off of importa-
tion has been marked. The bulk of the wools imported were by one or two
mills, possibly a completion of contracts made last year.

Australian lambs have been in limited request and more limited supply, and
prices have been fairly well maintained.

Cape of Good Hope has been practically out of stock.

360 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Montevideo wools were purchased for America to a much less extent than
in former years, an<l have not been in great request.

Buenos Ayres wools were bought to a more limited extent for America, and
the sales of both new and old wool have probably been made without much
profit on the new wools, and at considerable loss on the holdings carried over
from last year.

Carpet wools have continued in good demand, especially for combing
wools, which are not in large supply The world's prices for carpet wools
are firm, and although it is practically impossible to assume anything in
regard to China, it appears as if the apparently inexhaustible supply there
could not now be depended upon, and that the limit of exports, at least at
present prices, has been reached.

Boston, April 6, 1911.

^^^!^^C;^ "c^^^^^.

BULLETIN

lational ^.ssotiatioii of Mlool Paimtacturcrs

A QUARTERLY MAGAZINE
Devoted to the Interests of the National Wool Industry.

Vol. XLI.] BOSTON, SEPTEMBER, 1911. [No. III.

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS.

A REVIEW OF A FUTILE LEGISLATIVE EFFORT — THE
VARIOUS BILLS AND THE PRESIDENT'S VETO.

Next only to the Canadian reciprocity agreement the
attempted wool and woolen legislation occupied the center
of the stage in the proceedings of the first session of the
Sixty-second Congress, which closed on August 22, 1911.

On June 6 the Underwood bill, which had been introduced
four days before into the House of Representatives and
referred to the Committee on Ways and Means, was reported
to the House by Chairman Underwood, and debate upon it
was immediately begun.

This bill was printed in full in the June Bulletin (pages
299-306). The favorable report accompanying it, presented
on June 6, was a long, detailed document signed by all of
the Democratic; members of the Committee on Ways and
Means, thirteen in number. A minority report at the same
time was filed by ex-Chairman Payne and Messrs. Dalzell,
Hill, Needham, Longworth, and Fordney, Republicans. The
Underwood report at the outset summarized the early history
of tariff legislation, condemned the existing rates of Sched-
ule K as excessive and " indefensible," and declared aerainst
waiting for the report of the Tariff Board, on the ground
that "the public patience has been already too much abused
in this matter by the Republican party, and immediate revi-
sion of this admittedly indefensible schedule at the earliest

362 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

possible moment is the plain mandate and expectation of the
people and the duty of the Democratic party."

The report approved the principle of ad valorem as con-
trasted with specific duties, as in accord with Democratic
anti-protectionist traditions and beliefs. It gave much space
to a discussion of raw wool, the question of shrinkages, and
the production year by year. The argument on these points
is the familiar free trade argument. Indeed, the report
declared that the Democratic party "recognizes no justifica-
tion whatever for tariff taxes except the necessity of reve-
nue." Nevertheless, because of " the depleted and depleting
condition of the public treasury, a result of Republican
extravagance, a tariff of 20 per cent ad valorem on raw wool
is now proposed as a revenue necessity."

REVENUE FROM INCREASED IMPORTS.

The report described in detail the change made in the
various paragraphs of Schedule K and the reasons for those
changes as they appeared to the majority of the committee.
These reasons comprise the usual arguments of public men
who believe in free trade, and of importers and foreign man-
ufacturers greedy to possess the American market, the
greatest and richest market in the world. On the subject of
the revenue anticipated from the Underwood bill, the report
stated :

For the fiscal year 1910, duties to the amount of |41,900,-
693 were collected under Schedule K, of which amount
$21,128,728.74 were from raw wools and 820,771,964.26 from
manufactures of wool. Four groups of articles provide the
bulk of the revenue from manufactures of wool. The most
important grou[) is women's and children's dress goods, etc.,
which, in 1910, yielded $9,481,206.75 in duties, or not far
from half of all the revenue from the manufactured goods.
Woolen and worsted cloths are next in importance, and pro-
duced $5,937,753.72 in duties in 1910, or more than one-
quarter of the total from the manufactures. Carpets and
carpeting yielded -12,802,211.52 in duties in the same year;
and wearing apparel, etc., $1,444,296.87. The total revenue
from these four groups was $19,665,468.86, out of a total of

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 863

$21,128,728.74 from manufactures of wool. It is the esti-
mate of the Ways and Means Committee that under the
duties provided for in the bill H. R. 11019 the probable total
amount of duties which may reasonably be expected for the
year 1912 would be about 140,556,000, of which about
$13,398,000 would be from raw or unmanufactured wools and
about $27,158,000 from manufactures of wool. It is very
difficult to estimate accurately the amount of imports to be
expected in the future under reduced duties. ^lany factors
have to be carefully studied and considered, and the greatest
care exercised that conclusions be drawn only from real facts
and experience and with reference to conditions that are
fairly comparable. Of course, any attempt to foretell the
future in such a matter is only an estimate and to be con-
sidered strictly as such. The committee has, however, made
every possible effort to secure the best estimate that could
be made under all the circumstances, and has checked up
this work at every step by comparative results reached from
different angles of computation.

A FRANK FREE TRADE MEASURE.

In closing the report the majority members argued earnestly
that this is the most radical downward reduction in duties
proposed for a long time :

In the actual imports and duties under the schedule in the
fiscal year 1910, the average ad valorem equivalent of the
duties collected on manufactures of wool was 90.10 per cent.
Under the bill H. R. 11019 the average ad valorem rate on
manufactures of wool, on the imports and duties as esti-
mated for 1912, would be 42.55 [)er cent. The average ad
valorem equivalent of the duties on all raw wool was 44.31
per cent in 1910 (47.60 per cent for Class I, and 46.54 per
cent for Class II wools, the classes which compete with
domestic wools). The bill H. R. 11019 provides an ad
valorem rate of only 20 per cent on all raw wool. With this
duty on the raw wools, the material for the manufacturers
(amounting to about 10 per cent on the manufactured prod-
uct), the margin between the tax on the raw wool and the
average ad valorem rate on the manufactured goods, as esti-
mated, is about 32.55 per cent. Under the Wilson Act of
1894 the average ad valorem rate in 1896 was 47.84 per cent,
with no tax on the raw wool, so that the margin in the rate
on the manufactured goods was 47.84 per cent. In the

364 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Springer bill of 1892, the rate on the manufactured goods
was, for the most part, 40 to 45 per cent. Likewise in the
Mills bill of 1888, the rate on manufactured goods was, for
the most part, 40 to 45 per cent, with the margin for the
manufacturers the same. It is evident, therefore, that the
bill H. R. 11019 provides a much lower margin, and hence a
much more competitive rate for manufactures of wool than
has been passed by the House of Representatives or enacted
in any other Democratic measure since the tariff acts of
1846 and 1857.

The fact that the Underwood bill embodies the principle of
tariff for revenue only, and is framed without the slightest
consideration for adequate protection or the welfare of
American industries, is emphasized again and again in the
speeches of its authors and promoters. Thus Chairman
Underwood himself, in his principal address of June 7, said :

So the criticism of this bill that may be made by gentle-
men on the other side of the House, that certain manu-
facturing interests in this country are not allowed sufficient
protection, is a matter that marks the dividing line between
two great parties and is not applicable to this bill in par-
ticular.

We disclaim any purpose whatever of writing this bill in
the interests of the manufacturers of wool or the producers
of raw wool. (Applause on the Democratic side.)

Chairman Underwood further declared in the course of his
address that " There is nobody in this country who does not
know that the American Woolen Company to-day fixes the
prices of woolen goods ; that it is a monopoly ; that it is a
trust ; and that this industry and that company dictated to a
Republican House, prohibiting you from reducing the exor-
bitant rates under Schedule K in the last Congress."

SPEECHES FOR THE BILL.

On June 9 the Underwood bill was advocated in a formal
speech by Representative Andrew J. Peters of Massachusetts,
the New England Democratic member of the Committee on
Ways and Means. Mr. Peters denounced any tariff policy

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 365

" other than one for revenue only " as " as absurd as it is
indefinite." The Democratic party, he said, " stands squarely
for a tariff for revenue only." Mr. Peters urged that the
free wool policy of the Gorman-Wilson tariff had not reduced
the number of sheep in the United States, because during the
same years, from 1893 to 1897, there was a marked decrease
in the number of sheep in Australia also. He analyzed the
anticipated results of the new schedule, deprecated waiting
for the report of the Tariff Board, and insisted that a com-
parison of costs of production was impossible.

Another interesting speech for the Underwood bill was
that delivered by Representative William G. Brantley of
Georgia, also a majority member of the Committee on Ways
and Means. Mr. Brantley argued earnestly in favor of a
revenue duty on raw wool. He accused the Republicans of
desiring to prohibit all imports, and of perverting "a great
constitutional power from governmental ends to personal and
selfish ends." He held that the labor cost of wool manu-
factures in this country was only a little more than 20 per
cent, while the pending bill afforded a net protection to the
manufacturer of between 30 and 35 per cent.

Other speeches in support of the Underwood bill were
delivered by Representatives Hull of Tennessee, Redfield of
New York, Hughes of New Jersey, Macon of Arkansas, and
others. Representative Henry George, Jr., of New York,
took the occasion to declare for absolute free trade, and
Representative Berger of Wisconsin for socialism. Several
" insurgent " Republican Representatives, among them Mr.
Murdock of Kansas and Mr. Steenerson of Minnesota, spoke
in effect in favor of the bill. Mr. Murdock, in order to
attack what he characterized as a trust, moved that all
worsted manufactures should be placed upon the free list.

THE PROTECTIONIST OPPOSITION.

The protectionist case against the bill was opened on June
3 before the bill had been reported by Representative E. J.
Hill of Connecticut, a member of the Committee on Ways
and Means. Mr. Hill, who has personal knowledge of wool

366 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

manufacturing, declared that the bill would absolutely
destroy the market for the domestic grower of wool, and put
him in a worse position than if we had free wool, with fabric
duties sufficient to preserve the industry of manufacturing.
When $40,000,000 of foreign fabrics were imported there was
lost to the United States about $12,000,000 worth of human
labor in the manufacturing processes alone, which meant the
throwing of 23,000 persons out of employment in the
industry.

Representative James R. Mann of Illinois, the Republican
floor leader, vigorously assailed the Underwood bill on June
8, in a well- constructed speech in which he made the point
that the authors of the bill were wrongly informed when they
asserted that the Aldrich-Payne law was producing a deficit
in the national revenues. Mr. Mann showed that instead of
a deficit there was a substantial surplus. Mr. Mann con-
tended that the bill gave insufficient protection to the wool
grower, and insufficient compensatory duty and protective
duty to the manufacturer. He urged that final consideration
of the bill should be postponed until the report of the Tariff
Board was available for Congress in December.

Hon. Sereno E. Payne of New York, the Chairman of the
Committee on Ways and Means, delivered a strong, formal
speech against the Underwood bill. Mr. Payne urged that
it was as necessary to have wool and sheep in this country as
it was to have battleships. His own opinions on the wool
schedule were known two years ago. He wanted to revise
and equalize the wool schedule — equalize the duties — but
he was not able to carry it through. He would put a specific
duty on the amount of scoured wool in the fleece, making a
uniform duty on the wool. Mr. Payne criticised the Demo-
cratic majority severely for the haste with which the new
wool and woolen bill had been prepared. Speaking of the
ill effects of the Gorman-Wilson law, he reminded the House
that in 1896, 42 per cent of the woolen machinery in this
country was idle, and 47 per cent of the knitting machinery.
The price of sheep had dropped from $4 to 50 cents a head.
Mr. Payne presented the following table of the visible wool

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS.

367

supply at the end of each year, based on production and
imports, less consumption and exports, from 1896-1908:

Wool Sdpplt at the End of Each Year, Based on Production and
Imports, Less Consumption and Exports.

1890.

1897.

1898.

1899.

Carried over from previous year .

Pounds.
194,724,651
272,474.708
159,776,015

17,011,149

Pounds.
393,986,523
259,158,251
356,839,482

44,505,470
200,000,0001

Pounds.

794,484,726

266,720,684

99,850,404

459,197

Pounds.
761,515,011
272,191,330
105,867,574

317,531

Imports of wool

Imports of shoddy, noils, rags,
etc

Total supply

Consumption aDd exports . . . .

643,986,523
250,000,000

393,986,623

1,254,484,726
460,000,000

1,161.515,011
400,000.000

1,139,891,246
550,u0O,000

Carried over at end of year

794,484,726

761,515.011

589,891,246

1 Added to cover the increased efficiency of 113,958,915 pounds of shoddy over grease wool
imported during 1895, 1896, and 1897.

Carried over from previous year .

American clip

Imports of wool

Imports of shoddy, noils, rags,
etc

Total supply

Consumption and exports ....

Carried over at end of year

1900.

leoi.

1902.

1903.

Pounds.
589,891,246
288,636,621
139,908,718

637,177

1,019,073,762
625,000,000

Pounds.
494,073,762
302,502,328
124,964,377

277,668

Pounds.
396,818.135
316.341,032
176,292,639

309,155

Pounds.
314,760,961
287,450,000
173,573,891

312,861

921,818,135
525,000,000

889.760,961
575,000,000

776,097,713
490.000.000

494,073,762

396,818,135

314,760,961

286,097,713

1904.

1905.

1906.

1907.

1908.

Carried over from previous

Pounds.
286,097,713
291,783,032
186,572,683

169,272

764,62 ;,-00
481,000,000

Pounds.
283,622,700
295,488,438
249,135,746

277,223

Pounds.
253,524,107

298,915,130
201,688,668

1,171,097

Pounds.
180,299,002
298,294,750
203,847,545

674,289

Pounds.
158,115,586
3(10,000,000
120,000,000'

400,000>

American clip

Imports of wool

Imports of shoddy, noils,
rags, etc

Total supply

Consumption and exports

828,524,107
575,000,000

755,299,002
575,000,000

683.115,586
525,000,000

578,515,586
350,000,0001

Carried over at end of
year

283,622,700

253,524,107

180,299,002

158,115,586

228,515,586

'Estimated on basis of 10 months.

'Average consumption for 13 years, 483,000 pounds.

368 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
NOT A MONOPOLY.

Hon. John W. Weeks of Massachusetts devoted the major
part of his speech against the Underwood bill to a considera-
tion of the charge that the wool manufacture was in the
hands of a monopoly or trust. He showed that there were
in this country about 1,200 wool manufacturing establish-
ments, of which 34 were included in the American Woolen
Company's plants. The number operated by individuals as
individuals in 1905 was 333 ; the number operated by firms
was 311 ; the number operated by corporations was 567. It
could not be said of the American Woolen Company or the
woolen industry that it has ever sold its products abroad at
a lower price than at home, because the sales abroad were
practicably negligible for years. The people of this countfy
were getting the benefits of intense competition in the
woolen industry. The annual output of the American
Woolen Company averaged from $21,000,000 the first year
to $51,000,000 in the year 1909. Its average output had
been about $40,000,000. Tlie output of the woolen and
worsted mills in this country varied from about $238,000,000
in 1909 to $308,000,000 in 1904 and $420,000,000 in 1909.
The output of the American Woolen Company has averaged
to be about 11^ per cent of the total output of all of the
woolen and worsted manufactories of the country. The
company was not entirely a worsted manufacturing com-
pany. Thirty -four per cent of its business was woolen and
Q6 per cent worsted. Neither in the number of employees,
in the amount of equipment employed, in the value of the
output or in its capital stock had the American Woolen
Company at any time represented more than 15 per cent of
this industry, and under such circumstances it could not be
called a monopoly.

OTHER PROTECTION SPEECHES.

Hon. John Dalzell of Pennsylvania, the senior Republican
after Mr. Payne on the Committee on Ways and Means,
attacked the Underwood bill because of its large use of

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 369

ad valorem duties, which every commercial nation on the
globe had long since abandoned. He quoted against these
ad valorem duties Secretaries Gallatin, Woodbury, and Man-
ning, and ex-Speaker Reed. Mr. Dalzell scored the majority
report of the committee, with its predictions that the imports
both of raw wool and of wool manufactures would be
heavily increased under the proposed legislation. It was
ridiculous, he said, to base a calculation of revenue upon the
assumption that you would import at the same time large
quantities of wool and large quantities of woolen fabrics.
If the imports of manufactures of wool were increased by
$40,000,000, American mills must produce so much less and
would, therefore, need less raw wool. He did not oppose at
the proper time and in the proper way a revision of Schedule
K. He realized that there was a large and growing sentiment
that deserved recognition in favor of revising Schedule K,
but he believed that a majority of the American people,
while they desired such a revision, still desired that the
protective features should be retained.

Hon. Butler Ames of Massachusetts, who is himself inter-
ested in textile manufacture, as his people before him have
been for generations, spoke with exact, practical information
against the Underwood bill. The woolen business, he said,
was practically in a state of coma, because the buyers of
cloth did not dare to make purchases until they had assured
themselves that values had become stable. He cited the
experience of a prosperous mill in his district, the total sales
of which for ten years from 1901 to 1910 were -$13,301,422,
on which the profit was $416,335, or 31 per cent, not count-
ing in a charge for interest on the money invested. Mr.
Ames submitted a comparison of wages showing a weekly
total for an English mill of $308.56 in various occupations,
as compared with a total in a Lowell mill of $703.60 for the
same occupation. He showed that the proportion of labor
cost in wool manufactures was ver}^ much more than the
19 per cent stated by the Chairman of the Committee on
Ways and Means,

Hon. Joseph W. Fordney of Michigan, representing an

370 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

important wool-growing State, showed that a reduction of
the duty from eleven cents a pound to 20 per cent ad valorem
meant a reduction of about 60 per cent. He reviewed the
remarkable development of the wool manufacture in America
since 1900, as disclosed by the recent report of the Bureau
of the Census. He reviewed also the operation of the
Gorman-Wilson law, with its disastrous results alike to wool
growing and to manufacturing, and he read a long list of
woolen mills that were abandoned or reorganized in the
closing years of that free trade experiment.

Hon. J. Hampton Moore of Philadelphia spoke especially
from the standpoint of the manufacturers. He said that
there had been no such depression in the textile industries
as there is to-day since the days of the Gorman-Wilson law,
and it was attributed by manufacturers and operatives to the
tariff agitation. He related his own personal experience
with a piece of American-made cloth costing $2.25 net per
yard at the mill — three and one-half yards being requisite
to make a suit of clothing. He took it to his tailor, and
found that it would cost $30 to have that made up into a
suit of clothing. The entire duty on that cloth made into a
suit of clothing would be $3.70.

For the Ohio wool growers Hon. Nicholas Longworth of
Ohio asked that Congress wait for the report of the Tariff
Board. Sheep in Ohio were raised on high-priced land in
small flocks and by average, every-day farmers. They could
not pay in direct competition with men who have 40,000 and
50,000 in a flock of sheep in Australia, where grazing land
is worth practically nothing. The tariff was imposed to
equalize the duty in the cost of production in wool here and
abroad to maintain that industry. If protection were
removed, the industry would be driven out of business.
When wool was placed on the free list, in 1894, the number
of sheep in Ohio fell from substantially 4,000,000 to a little
more than 1,000,000, and during the years of the Wilson law
sheep were selling at 50 cents apiece. Other forcible
addresses on behalf of the wool growing industry were
delivered b}^ Hon. Frank W. Mondell of Wyoming, Hon.

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 371

Charles N. Pray of Montana, and Hon. Frank B. Willis of
Ohio.

PASSED BY THE HOUSE.

The Underwood bill was brought up for final action in
the House on June 20, and was passed by a vote of 220
yeas to 100 nays, only one Democrat, Hon. William B.
Francis of the wool growing district of Ohio, voting against
the bill, and 24 Republican Representatives voting for it —
these 24 Republicans being Anderson of Minnesota, Anthony
and Campbell of Kansas, Davis of Minnesota, French of
Idaho, Haugen of Iowa, Helgesen of North Dakota, Jackson
of Kansas, LaF'ollette of Washington, Lenroot of Wisconsin,
Lindbergh of Minnesota, Madison of Kansas, Miller of
Minnesota, Morse of Wisconsin, Murdock of Kansas, Nelson
of Wisconsin, Norris of Nebraska, Rees of Kansas, Sloan of
Nebraska, Steenerson of Minnesota, Stephens of California,
Volstead of Minnesota, Woods of Iowa, and Young of
Kansas.

All material amendments offered to the bill were defeated,
and it passed the House substantially in the form in which it
was introduced on June 2 by Chairman Underwood.

Immediately after the passage of the bill Speaker Clark
laid before the House a message from the President accom-
panying a communication from the Tariff Board. On June
7 the House had passed a resolution requesting the President
to transmit to the House of Representatives for the use of
the members all the information secured by the Tariff Board
relative to the various articles and commodities named in
Schedule K.

President Taft in his message stated that the Board had
no further information in shape proper for transmission than
that which had already been transmitted to the Committee
on Ways and Means, but the Board would have a full and
complete report on the subject of Schedule K by the first of
December next, when he would be glad to submit both to
Congress.

372 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
REPLY OF THE TARIFF BOARD.

The communication of the Tariff Board to the President
was as follows :

The Tariff Board, Treasury Building,

Washington, June 15, 1911.
The President :

In acknowledging receipt of a copy of the resolution of
the House of Representatives calling for all the information
in the possession of the Tariff Board relating to Schedule K,
we beg to submit the following statement :

Statistics compiled by us froiu tiie latest available foreign
and domestic sources, covering the production, distribution,
and consumption of raw wools and woolen manufactures,
have already been transmitted on request to the Ways and
Means Committee of the House of Representatives, and
some 20 pages of the recent report of that committee to the
House are made up from this compilation and duly credited.
The Board is conducting an inquiry in relation to raw wools
— their production and shrinkage — woolen and worsted
manufacturing, and into the manufacturing of certain staple
articles made from the products of that industry, which
involves original research work that is world-wide in its
scope.

A large amount of material has already been obtained.
This, however, will not be of actual practical value until
properly checked and tabulated. Our representatives through-
out the United States and in foreign countries are now for-
warding data. This incomplete information, necessarily
fragmentary in character, if transmitted to Congress would
be not only of doubtful utility but actually misleading. In
making this statement we are not unmindful of the fact that
we are under instructions to complete our work upon this
and other important schedules at the earliest possible date.
We shall develop the essential facts in relation to both the
wool and the cotton schedules in time for forwarding to
Congress next December ; and in this endeavor we are not
only working to the limit of the present appropriation, but
to the utmost capacity of our entire force. In order that
the magnitude of the task may be understood, we respect-
full}^ present herewith an outline of our procedure.

The rates provided by Schedule K in its present form are
based largely upon the duty on raw wool. The logical start-
ing point, therefore, for any comprehensive study of the

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 373

facts underlying the schedule is the sheep husbandry of the
United States, South America, Australia, New Zealand,
South Africa, and various parts of Europe. The Board
began, more than a year ago, the consideration of plans
designed to cover this wide field of investigation. An origi-
nal inquiry as to all the conditions surrounding the industry
in the great wool growing regions of the United States was
imperative. It was found at the very inception of the work
that the inquiry presented many problems difficult of solu-
tion, especially in the matter of determining wool-production
costs. Few attempts at ascertaining the exact cost of main-
taining sheep under different conditions have ever been
made, so far as we have been able to discover, either by
individuals, experiment stations, or agricultural departments
in this or any other country. Time was necessarily con-
sumed in an effort to formulate the inquiries in such a way
as to bring out the data desired.

The first inquiry schedule adopted was printed last
November and placed in the hands of representatives chosen
for their special knowledge of sheep management, farm and
ranch wages, and forage values. They were instructed to
visit peisonally representative flock owners throughout the
leading wool -producing sections and obtain first-hand informa-
tion, to be made the basis of the necessary computations
and tabulations.

Wool growing in the United States centers largely in the
trans-Missouri country, probably two-thirds of the domestic
clip coming from the far West. Throughout the Middle
Western States wool is for the most part produced as an
incident to lamb feeding and mutton making ; but in Ohio
and the contiguous territory of West Virginia, Pennsylvania,
and Michigan there is an established industry having as its
chief objective the production of wool of the finer grades.
It was believed that production costs for that region could
be worked out with reasonable exactness, because in a large
proportion of instances the entire farm and its products are
devoted chiefly to the maintenance of the flock. The figures
in such case are not complicated by expense items chargeable
to other production. Typical counties in this territory were
covered by our representatives.

Some 500 different farms were visited, and the returns
thus obtained are being carefully checked and tabulated,
the cost of maintenance determined, the weight and selling
price of the clip ascertained, the cost in each case computed,
and samples of the wool submitted to an expert to determine

374 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

its market grade and its probable shrinkage. One of these
agrents also studied the situation in the Province of Ontario.
Meantime the Board's representatives were sent into the
Southwest with new schedules specially adapted to conditions
prevailing in that part of the country. They have already
covered Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California,
Utah, Colorado, Oregon, and Washington, and are now
entering Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming. They are under
instructions to push the work with all possible despatch con-
sistent with accuracy. It has been found desirable to
utilize, as far as possible, the same agents throughout the
entire territory to be covered. These representatives are now
nearing the end of their study of wool growing in the Wes-
tern part of the United States. Considerable time, however,
will necessarily be required in checking carefully the mass of
figures being accumulated. Not until this is completed will
it be possible for the Board to analyze and interpret the
information, statistical and otherwise, being received from so
many different sources.

Concurrently with this work, foreign fields have also been
under investigation by special agents of the Board. One of
these agents proceeded to Australia last October, has
recently returned, and is now perfecting his report in Lon-
don, England, a great distributing point for the Australian
wools. A similar report from New Zealand, representing the
work of a special agent in that country, is nearing comple-
tion. In February a special agent of the Board was sent to
South America, proceeding direct to Punta Arenas. He is
now nearing the end of an investigation, attended by many
difficulties, throughout the vast domain extending from the
Straits of Magellan to Montevideo. His report will include
valuable facts and figures from remote wool growing regions
seldom, if ever before, visited by students of this question.
He is also under instructions to report upon wheat produc-
tion in Argentina, as well as upon the meat-export possibilities
of that country. The latter subject is of especial interest at
this time in view of pending proposals to open our ports for
the free entry of meat products. This agent is expected
back about August 1. It should be stated that a large pro-
portion of all these reports are accompanied by samples of
the wool produced, together with selling prices and estimated
shrinkages.

The Board is making careful inquiry into the whole ques-
tion of shrinkages in both domestic and foreign markets. A
member of the Board has been in recent attendance upon

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 375

the colonial auction sales of wool in London and will also
visit continental ports where foreign wools are handled.
Experts are under instructions to obtain the fullest possible
data as to the ratio of scoured to grease wool in various clips,
as determined by the experience of leading makers of " tops "
and yarns at home and abroad. Agents of the Board are
also obtaining information concerning wool wastes and
shoddy in their relation to the spinning and weaving pro-
cesses.

Tlie matter of rail and ocean freights on raw wools is of
importance and is receiving our attention.

The work of the Board in connection with woolen and
worsted manufactures deals with four elements of this ques-
tion : First, cloth of domestic manufacture ; second, cloth of
foreign manufacture imported into the United States ; third,
cloth of foreign manufacture not coming into the United
States; fourth, efficiency of labor and of mill equipment.

The inquiry into this first section is an investigation of the
cost of production here of staple cloths of American manu-
facture and the production cost of similar cloths made
abroad. This embraces the complete range of woolen and
worsted fabrics in general use at the present time in the
United States. The great variety of fabrics manufactured
by various mills makes it necessary that only those cloths
shall be taken for inquiry which are staple and are repre-
sentative of the industry in its different branches.

A careful study was made of this question and a large
number of specimen cloths were secured by the Board to
cover this e)itire range, equally divided between the men's
wear and women's dress goods, and ranging in grade and
price from the lowest to the highest. The Board is securing
the actual cost of production of these cloths from the mill
where each fabric was made, this being taken directly from
the books of the manufacturer.

An extensive part of this work is the collection of verified
estimates of cost of these goods in different mills of the
United States. All of the specimen cloths have been
analyzed, and samples are being taken to manufacturers, with
a descriptive card attached, giving the width, weight, num-
ber of picks, number of ends, the different yarns that go to
make up the fabric, and their size and quality. The purpose
of the Board in this part of the inquiry is to ascertain the
cost of making these cloths, not only in different parts of the
country, but in mills which vary in size, equipment, and
output. Agents of the Board take these samples to different

376 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

manufacturers, and with their representative figure out the
cost of production of such goods in their mills. This
accounting is done upon schedules which go into every detail
of manufacture, from the original stock to the finished cloth.
It takes up each process separately, from the sorting and
blending of the wool to the finishing of the cloth. In every
process it goes into the elements of productive labor, non-
productive labor, and department expense, and it secures
every item and detail entering into the making of the fabric.

By these schedules is also obtained the yearly general
expense of each mill, together with every detail of works
expense and fixed charges, and all such items as taxes and
de[)reciation. All of this cost accounting is based upon
identical fabrics, bearing identical analyses, and is being
secured from mills that make identical or similar fabrics.
Samples of these same cloths have been sent abroad, and
similar production costs are being secured there by our
agents under the personal supervision of a member of the
Board.

Cloths of foreign manufacture are being treated in a
similar way, and information secured as to wdiat would be
the cost of such fabrics if manufactured in the United
States. Typical cloths have been secured by personal visits
of a member of the Board to foreign manufacturers, and
these are being used as the basis of this part of the inquiry.
A special feature of the investigation is the question of what,
if any, cloths are now excluded fi-om the United States.
From foreign manufacturers have been obtained sample
cloths, which they assert they cannot export to this country
because of prohibitive tariff rates. The Board is conduct-
ing a careful inquiry as to whether or not such goods do
come here, and also as to the price of similar goods made in
the United States. This latter question will be gone into
thoroughly, to ascertain the effect upon the American con-
sumer of any nonimportation of such cloths.

The fourth element is the entire question of labor, hours
of labor, and efficiency of labor, and equipment. Agents of
the Board are now at work along this line in this country
and in England, Germany, and France. They are using the
same schedules in all four countries in order that the whole
matter of efficiency may be properly determined and the
results obtained be comparable.

These schedules provide for the securing of all details of
mill manufacture in this industr3\ They call for particulars
in regard to the persons employed in each and every occupa-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 377

tion in worsted and woolen manufacture, the machine equip-
ment, its nature, age, and efficiency, the amount of work
done by each employee, together with hours of work, amount
earned, and output produced.

The Board is also engaged in conducting an investigation
into the production cost of articles made from woolen and
worsted cloth to ascertain the details and cost of the manu-
facture of garments for men and women. An inquiry is also
being planned into the production cost of woolen blankets,
and this will embrace such manufacture in the different
sections of the country.

In addition to this, a complete glossary of Schedules I and
K will be ready for submission in December. This will
include all the latest statistical information available, defini-
tions of terms used, ad valorem equivalents of existing
duties, brief presentation of the commercial geography of
the industries involved, and concise descriptions of manu-
facturing processes. It will be accompanied by graphic
charts and the completed results of the Board's own research
work, covering both the cotton and the woolen schedules.

Respectfully submitted,

Alvin H. Sanders,

Vice Chairman.

THE BILL IN THE SENATE.

The Underwood bill was received in the Senate on June 21,
and on the motion of Senator Gore of Oklahoma was referred
to the Committee on Finance, with instructions that it should
be reported back not later than the 10th of July, The vote
on this motion was 39 yeas to 18 nays, 16 Republican Senators
voting yea with the Democrats and only one Democratic
Senator, Myers of Montana, voting no with the regular
Republicans. The 16 Republican Senators who voted for
Senator Gore's motion were Messrs. Borah of Idaho, Bourne
of Oregon, Bristow of Kansas, Brown of Nebraska, Clapp of
Minnesota, Crawford of South Dakota, Cummins of Iowa,
Dixon of Montana, Gronna of North Dakota, Jones of
Washington, Kenj^on of Iowa, La Follette of Wisconsin,
Nelson of Minnesota, Poindexter of Washington, Townsend
of Michigan, and Works of California.

On the day following, June 22, Senator Penrose, Chairman

378 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of the Committee on Finance, repoi'ted back the Underwood
bill, with an adverse recommendation and a request for
indefinite postponement. On the request of Senator Nelson
of Minnesota, Senator Martin of Virginia, and Senator Cul-
berson of Texas, the bill went to the calendar. At the same
time, Senator Penrose reported, with an adverse recommenda-
tion, the so-called farmers' free list bill (H. R. 4413). That
also, at the request of Senator Nelson and Senator Gore of
Oklahoma, was placed on the calendar.

This action of the Senate in directing the Committee on
Finance to report the Underwood bill was accepted by the
protectionist Republican Senators and the country as signify-
ing that actual control of the Senate had passed to a coalition
of Democrats and so-called " insurgent " or " progressive "
Republicans from Middle Western and far Western States.

THE LA FOLLETTE SUBSTITUTE.

Immediately after the acceptance by the Senate of the
Canadian reciprocity agreement, on July 22, Senator Penrose,
as Chairman of the Committee on Finance, moved that the
Senate proceed to the consideration of the bill, H. R. 11019, to
reduce the duties on wool and manufactures of wool. On
July 13 Senator La Follette of Wisconsin had offered an
amendment to the Canadian agreement amending Schedule
K by consolidating Class I and Class II wools into Class I
and making them dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem, and
converting Class III into Class II, and making these coarse
carpet wools dutiable at 10 per cent ad valorem. Hair of
the camel, Angora goat, alpaca, and other like animals was
placed on the free list. The skirting clause was eliminated
in the La Follette amendment. The duties on cloth, dress
goods, and similar manufactures of wool were reduced to 60
per cent, and the duties on manufactures of hair of the camel,
Angora goat, alpaca, etc., to 35 per cent. Similar reductions
were made in other portions of the schedule. This amend-
ment was offered to the Canadian agreement on July 22, but
was overwhelmingly rejected on a vote of 16 yeas to 64 nays
— only ''insurgent" Republican Senators and three Demo-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 879

crats, Senators Bailey of Texas, Simmons of North Carolina,
and Clarke of Arkansas, supporting it.

Senator La Follette subsequently offered practically this
same proposal as an amendment to the Underwood bill, H. R.
11019, in the course of the debate on that measure in the
Senate. In this second proposal, however, he transferred
hair of the Angora goat and alpaca from the free list to
Class II, making it dutiable at 10 per cent ad valorem. In a
speech on July 26, Senator La Follette advocated his amend-
ment, declaring that "• There are no more iniquitous, no more
indefensible, no more harmful provisions in all the tariff law
than those contained in Schedule K," and adding that " The
manufacturer and not the wool grower was the author of
the iniquity of this schedule." Mr. La Follette attacked
especially the compensatory duties, asserting that they were
built up on a false basis. Senator La Follette stated that his
informant and supporter in this accusation against American
wool manufacturers was Mr. S. S. Dale of Boston, the editor
of the " Textile World Record." " He was the manager of
great woolen mills," said Senator La Follette, " and has
become familiar through personal experience with everything
pertaining to the industry. I have come to know him quite
well and to greatly respect him, not only for his very accu-
rate knowledge of this whole subject, but as a man of the
highest standards of integrity." Senator La Follette went
on to describe the experiments by which he asserted that
Mr. Dale had discovered and exposed the manner in which
American manufacturers, "• surreptitiously upon this false
basis," had secured "an additional protective duty."

Having made the point that he relied upon Mr. Dale as
his informant and chief witness in his grave accusations
against the wool manufacturers of this country, Senator La
Follette went on to attack "this so-called Tariff Board,"
declaring that the Board " is on trial. It will be judged by
its work. There are one or two men, more perhaps, on that
commission who have expert training qualifying them to
serve on such a commission. I know it is shocking to some
Senators to hear a statement as plain as that, but I have got

380 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

into the habit of saying on this floor what I know to be true,
and I am going to continue it." He urged that the law
"should prescribe the qualifications of the men trained to
serve on such a board, not ' lame ducks,' not small poli-
ticians." Senator La Follette, continuing, eulogized Graham
Clark, formerly of the Bureau of Manufactures, and quoted
his statements, which practical manufacturers had severely
criticised, as the basis of further attack upon the protective
system.

Again quoting from Mr. Dale as his authority that in some
cases "the duty on raw wool is as high as 550 per cent," Sen-
ator La Follette denounced the existing duties on wool man-
ufactures as " mostly prohibitive " and " outrageously high."
Senator La Follette sneered at the "manufacturers in the
woolen and worsted industry " who " are barely able to make
both ends meet, and from the wails of the woolen trust one
might think it was on its last legs." Later on he denounced
"these illicit gains" and "surreptitious bounty" of the
manufacturers. " We know," he exclaimed, " that the
woolen trust dominates largely the woolen industry," and he
asserted that " woolen goods are sold in this country gener-
ally at double the price at which they can be purchased in
England." Advocating his duty of 60 per cent on woolen
manufactures, he proclaimed his belief tliat this was higher
than it ought to be, and he prophesied that the adoption of
his radical bill would save to the American people $170,000-
000 a year.

Senator Joseph M. Dixon of Montana, in a speech on July
26, went into the history of Schedule K from the standpoint
of the wool growers, and attacked the skirting clause of the
act of 1890 as depriving the wool growers of their anticipated
protection. Senator Dixon asserted that the wool growers
actually secured only five or six cents a pound of the eleven
and twelve cents of the tariff. The wool growers wanted a
prohibitive tariff on wool rags and shoddy, and no diminu-
tion of their protective duties. Senator Dixon asked for
eight cents a pound on wools of the first and second class,
and four cents on carpet wool, with the skirting clause elim-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 381

inated — either that or a duty of 25 cents a pound on the
scoured product. ''Give the wool growers a tariff of that
kind," said Senator Dixon, " and I guarantee that within ten
years' time we will produce every pound of wool to supply
the needs of the American people for clothing. We will
restore a languishing industry to its old-time standard. We
will retain here at home $100,000,000 that we are sending
every year to foreign countries for the purchase of wool and
woolens." " I am broad enough," he added, " to know that
the woolen manufacturer must also have sufficient protection
to offset the cost of labor here and in Europe. We all admit
that labor here is paid twice, and in most cases three times,
what it is paid in England, France, and Germany." In con-
clusion. Senator Dixon urged tliat amendment of Schedule
K should wait upon the report of the Tariff Board.

THE SMOOT SUBSTITUTE.

Senator J. H. Gallinger of New Hampshire, Senator
Francis E. Warren of Wyoming, Senator Weldon B, Hey-
burn of Idaho, and others took effective part in the running
debate on the wool and woolen bill. On July 19 Senator
Reed Smoot of Utah, of the Committee on Finance, who has
given particular attention to the subject both of wool grow-
ing and of wool manufacturing, offered a substitute of his
own for the Underwood bill, H. R. 11019, and explained in
detail the provisions of his substitute, saying :

In the first place, I maintain the classification of the three
grades of wool as now provided for in the present tariff law.

Instead of a rate of 11 cents per pound on tirst-class wool
in the grease and 12 cents per pound on second-class wool in
the grease, the substitute provides a rate of 9 cents per pound
on both classes.

In the present law there is no provision made for washed
wools of the second class to carry a rate of duty of twice the
rate of wool in the gre'ase. The substitute corrects this so
that the rates upon wool of the second class shall be the
same as on wool of the first class, whether in the grease,
washed, or scouied. Wool in the grease, 9 cents per pound ;
washed wool, 18 cents per pound ; and scoured wool, 27

382 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKEKS.

cents per pound, instead of the present rates, which are :
First-class wool in the grease, 11 cents per pound ; washed
wool, 22 cents per pound ; and scoured wool, 33 cents per
pound; second-class wool in the grease, 12 cents per pound;
washed wool, 12 cents per pound ; and scoured wool, 36
cents per pound. This is to eliminate one of the complaints
of the carded woolen manufacturers against the present tariff
law, which they claim favors the worsted manufacturers.

On third-class wools, valued at 12 cents per pound or less,
the substitute provides a rate of 3 cents per pound instead
of 4 cents per pound, the present rate ; valued over 12 cents
per pound, 6 cents per pound instead of 7 cents per pound.

The " skirting clause," of which so much complaint has
been made by the wool growers, is eliminated. The wool
growers claim that 9 cents per pound without the " skirting
clause " is as great a protection to wool as 11 and 12 cents
per pound is with the " skirting clause," as provided in the
present law.

Garnetted waste is removed from paragraph 372, with a
rate of 30 cents per pound, to paragraph 373, with a late of
25 cents per pound.

In the proposed substitute the compensatory duties are
levied upon the same principle as in the present law, with
many reductions in the additional protective ad valorem
duties.

The provision in the present law assessing blankets over

8 yards in length has been eliminated in the proposed substi-
tute.

On women's and children's dress goods, Italian cloths, coat
linings, buntings, and goods of similar description the specific
duties have been reduced from 11 cents per square yard to

9 cents per square yard.

On clothing, ready-made, and articles of wearing apparel
of every description, the specific rate of duty is 36 cents per
pound in the proposed amendment, instead of 44 cents per
pound, as in the present law, while the additional protective
ad valorem duty is 50 per cent instead of 60 per cent, as in
the present law.

Webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings, beltings,
bindings, braids, galloons, edgings, insertings, flouncings,
fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, ribbons, ornaments,
laces, trimmings, etc., carry a specific duty of 36 cents per
pound instead of a specific duty of 50 cents per pound, as
provided in the present law.

The specific dut}^ per square yard in the proposed substi-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 383

tute Oil all grades of carpets is reduced one-half, while the
protective ad valorem duty remains the same as in the pres-
ent law. The rate on carpets, woven whole for rooms,
oriental, Berlin, and similar rugs is reduced from 10 cents
per square foot, the present rate, to 8 cents per square foot.

On druggets and bockings the specific duty per square
yard is reduced from 22 cents, present law, to 11 cents.

The rate on mats and matting is reduced from 50 per cent
ad valorem, present law, to 40 per cent ad valorem.

Paragraph 395i is new, which provides that in no case
shall any of the articles or fabrics enumerated in this schedule
pay a duty greater tlian is equivalent to an ad valorem duty
of 80 per cent. This paragraph prevents any equivalent ad
valorem duty of Schedule K exceeding 80 per cent. This
provision may be the means of making it very difficult for
the manufacturers of exceedingly fine and high-priced cloth
to compete with similar foreign-made goods, but it will pre-
vent the enemies of Schedule K from having a chance to
point to a few imported clieap, shoddy blankets, carrying an
equivalent ad valorem duty under the present law of 165 per
cent, and claiming that the blankets which the poor people
keep themselves warm with are burdened with that excessive
duty.

I was in hopes that a revision of Schedule K would not be
undertaken until the Tariff Board had made its report, but
it is evident that the Democrats of the House and the Demo-
crats of the Senate, together with a sufficient number of
Republican Senators to make a majority of the Senate, have
concluded to revise Schedule K at this extra session of Con-
gress without the necessary information that the report of
the Tariff Board is intended to furnish. The conclusions
as to what the revision should be are before the Senate in
the shape of a Democratic House bill and an amendment to
the reciprocity bill by Senator La FoUette. I have no hesi-
tancy in saying that if the Democratic wool bill which passed
the House becomes law practically every woolen mill in the
United States will be closed. Senator La Follette's amend-
ment to the Canadian reciprocity bill will, in my opinion,
have the same effect. The Wilson bill gave manufacturers of
woolens in this country free wool and a protective duty on
manufactured goods but slightly lower than provided for in
the amendment offered by Senator La Follette. Under the
Wilson bill the woolen industry of this country was brought
almost to a standstill. Under the La Follette amendment
manufacturers of wool are to pay a 40 per cent duty on wool

384 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

in the grease, with but little advance over the ad valorem
rates on manufactured goods provided in the Wilson bill ;
and I take it that any one familiar at all with the business
will conclude that the result cannot be anything but dis-
astrous to the business. Tf the American woolen mills are
closed, the American wool grower will find that his 40 per
cent protection avails him nothing.

The woolen industry of this country is more badly fright-
ened to-day than it was during the passage of the Wilson
Act, and the following table will show why :

Tariff Measures.

1910— Free
Wool
Value
at U.S.
Custom-
bouse.

Ad Valorem or Percentage
Duty on Wool.

Ad Valo-
rem or
Percentage
Duty on
Cloth.

Net Pro-
tection to
Manufac-
turer, i.e..
Less the
Wool Duty.

Wilson Act

Dingley and Payue Acts,

Undeiwood bill

La Follette bill

Cents.

'$0.l'86
.186
.186

Free

44.31 per cent

20 per cent

40 per cent, first-class
wools, includinir those
formerly classified as
second-class wools . . .

Per Cent.
50

97.11
40

Per Cent.
50

52.80
20

If Senators will examine this table they will find that
under the Wilson Act there was 50 per cent net protection
to the manufacturer; under the Payne Act there is 62.80
per cent net protection to the manufacturer ; under the
Underwood bill tliere would be only 20 per cent net protec-
ti(ni to the manufacturer; and under the La Follette amend-
ment there would be only 20 per cent net protection to
manufacturers on goods made from first-class wools, and
under his reclassification these wools comprise the great
bulk of the American production.

The rates in my proposed substitute are as low as I believe
it is possible for the American woolen business to exist
under, judging from the information that I have in my
possession. It may be that in some instances the rates are
a little high, and in others the 80 per cent limitation may be
a little too low. I shall reserve the right to support changes
in any of the rates proposed in my substitute if the Tariff
Board produces evidence that would justify the same.

The full text of Senator Smoot's amendment was as
follows :

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 385

AMENDMENT intended to be proposed by Mr. Smoot to
the bill (H. R. 11019) to reduce the duties on wool and
manufactures of wool, viz. : Strike out all after line 9 of
the bill, page 1, and insert the following :

SCHEDULE K. — WOOL, AND MANUFACTURES OF.

360. All wools, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other
like animals shall be divided, for the purpose of fixing the
duties to be charged thereon, into the three following
classes :

361. Class 1, that is to say, merino, mestiza, metz, or
metis wools, or other wools of merino blood, immediate or
remote, down clothing wools, and wools of like character
with any of the preceding, including Bagdad wool, China
lamb's wool, Castel Branco, Adrianople skin wool, or butclier's
wool, and such as have been heretofore usually imported into
the United States from Buenos Aires, New Zealand, Australia,
Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Britain, Canada, Egypt,
Moi-occo, and elsewhere, and all wools not hereinafter included
in Classes 2 and 3.

362. Class 2, that is to say, Leicester, Cotswold, Lincoln-
shire, down combing wools, Canada long wools or other like
combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the
terms herein used, and also hair of the camel. Angora goat,
alpaca, and other like animals.

363. Class 3, that is to sa}-, Donskoi, native South Ameri-
can, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, Russian camel's hair,
and all such wools of like character as have been heretofore
usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece,
Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter
provided for.

361. The standard samples of all wools which are now or
may be hereafter deposited in the principal custom-houses of
the United States, under the authority of the Secretary of the
Treasury, shall be the standards for the classification of wools
under this act, and the Secretary of the Treasury is author-
ized to renew these standards and to make such additions to
them from time to time as may be required, and he shall
cause to be deposited like standards in other custom-houses
of the United States when they may be needed.

365. Whenever wools of Class 3 shall have been improved
by the admixture of merino or English blood from their
present character as represented by the standard samples
now or hereafter to be deposited in the principal custom-

386 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

houses of the United States, such improved wools shall be
classified for duty either as Class 1 or as Class 2, as the case
may be.

366. The duty on wools of the first and second classes
which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount
of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported
unwashed; and the duty on wools of the first and second
classes which shall be imported scoured shall be three times
the duty to which they would be subjected if imported
unwashed. The duty on wools of the third class, if imported
in condition for use in carding or spinning into yarns, or
which shall not contain more than 8 per cent of dirt or other
foreign substance, shall be three times the duty to which
they would otherwise be subjected.

367. Unwashed wools shall be considered such as shall
have been shorn from the sheep without any cleansing —
that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be
considered such as have been washed with water only on the
sheep's back or on the skin. Wools of the first and second
classes washed in any other manner than on the sheep's back
or on the skin shall be considered as scoured wool.

368. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the
camel, Angora goat, alpaca, and other like animals of Class 1
and Class 2, which shall be imported in any other than
ordinary condition, or which has been sorted or increased in
value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece, shall
be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject.
The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel,
Angora goat, alpaca, and other like animals of any class
which shall be changed in its character or condition for the
purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in
value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign sub-
stance, shall be twice the duty to which it would be other-
wise subject. When the duty assessed upon any wool equals
three times or more that which would be assessed if said
wool was imported unwashed, the duty shall not be doubled
on account of the wool being sorted. If any bale or pack-
age of wool or hair specified in this act invoiced or entered
as of any specified class, or claimed by the importer to be
dutiable as of any specified class, shall contain any wool or
hair subject to a higher rate of duty than the class so sj)eci-
fied, the whole bale or package shall be subject to the highest
rate of duty chargeable on wool of the class subject to such
higher rate of duty, and if any bale or package be claimed
by the importer to be shoddj-, mungo, flocks, wool, hair, or

WOOL AND WOOLEMS IN COXGKESS. 387

other material of any class specified in this act, and such bale
contain any admixture of any one or more of said materials,
or of any other material, the whole bale or package shall be
subject to duty at the highest rate imposed upon any article
in said bale or package.

369. The duty upon all wools and hair of the first and
second classes shall be 9 cents per pound.

370. On wools of the tliird class and on camel's hair of
the third class the value whereof shall be 12 cents or less per
pound, the duty shall be 3 cents per pound. On wools of
the third class and on camel's hair of the third class the
value whereof shall exceed 12 cents per pound, the duty
shall be 6 cents per pound.

371. The duty on wools on the skin shall be 1 cent less
per pound than is imposed in this schedule on otlier wools of
the same class and condition, the quantity and value to be
ascertained under such rules as the Secretary of the Treasury
may prescribe.

372. Top waste, slubbing waste, roving waste, ring waste,
30 cents per pound.

373. Shoddy and garnetted waste, 25 cents per pound ;
noils, wool extract, yarn waste, thread waste, and all other
wastes composed wholly or in part of wool, and not specially
provided for in this section, 20 cents per pound.

374. Woolen rags, mungo, and flocks, 10 cents per pound.

375. On combed wool or to[)S, made wholly or in part of
wool or camel's hair, valued at not more than 20 cents per
pound, the duty per pound shall be two and one-fourth times
the duty imposed by this schedule on 1 pound of unwashed
wool of the first class ; valued at more than 20 cents per
pound, the duty per pound shall be three and one-third
times the duty imposed by this schedule on 1 pound of
unwashed wool of the first class ; and in addition thereto,
upon all the foregoing, 30 i)er cent ad valorem.

376. Wool and hair which have been advanced in any
manner or by any process of manufacture beyond the washed
or scoured condition, not specially provided for in this sec-
tion, shall be subject to the same duties as are imposed upon
manufactures of wool not specially provided for in this sec-
tion.

377. On yarns made wholly or in part of wool, valued at
not more than 30 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall
be two and one-half times the duty imposed by this section
on 1 pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addi-
tion thereto 35 per cent ad valorem ; valued at more than

388 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

30 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and
one-half times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound
of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto
40 per cent ad valorem.

378. On cloths, knit fabrics, and all manufactures of
every description made wholly or in part of wool, not
specially provided for in this section, valued at not more than
40 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times
the duty imposed by this section on a pound of unwashed
wool of the first class ; valued at above 40 cents per pound
and not above 70 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall
be four times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound of
unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto,
upon all the foregoing, 60 per cent ad valorem ; valued at
over 70 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be four
times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound of
unwashed wool of the first class and 55 per cent ad valorem.

379. On blankets and flannels for underwear composed
wholly or in part of wool, valued at not more than 40 cents
per pound, the duty per pound shall be the same as the duty
imposed by this section on 2 pounds of unwashed wool of the
first class, and in addition thereto 30 per cent ad valorem ;
valued at more than 40 cents and not more than 50 cents per
pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty
imposed by this section on 1 pound of unwashed wool of the
first class, and in addition thereto 35 per cent ad valorem.
On blankets composed wholly or in part of wool, valued at
more than 50 cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be
three times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound of
unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto 40
per cent ad valorem. Flannels composed wholly or in part
of wool, valued at above 50 cents per pound, shall be classi-
fied and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress
goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar
character and description provided by this section.

380. On women's and children's dress goods, coat linings,
Italian cloths, and goods of similar description and character
of which the warp consists wholly of cotton or other vege-
table material, with the remainder of the fabric composed
wholly or in part of wool, valued at not exceeding 15 cents
per square yard, the duty shall be 5 cents per square yard ;
valued at more than 15 cents per square yard, tlie duty shall
be 6 cents per square yard ; and in addition thereto on all
the foregoing valued at not above 70 cents per pound, 50 per
cent ad valorem ; valued above 70 cents per pound, 55 per

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 389

cent ad valorem : Provided^ That on all the foregoing, weigh-
ing over 4 ounces per square yard, the rates of duty shall be
5 per cent less than those imposed by this schedule on cloths.

381. On women's and children's dress goods, coat linings,
Italian cloths, bunting, and goods of similar description or
character composed wholly or in part of wool, and not
specially provided for in this section, the duty shall be
9 cents per square yard ; and in addition thereto on all the
foregoing valued at not above 70 cents per pound, 50 per
cent ad valorem ; valued above 70 cents per pound, 55 per
cent ad valorem : Provided^ That on all the foregoing, weigh-
ing over 4 ounces per square yard, the duty shall be the same
as imposed by this schedule on cloths.

882. On clothing, ready-made, and articles of wearing
apparel of every description, including shawls whether
knitted or woven, and knitted articles of ever}^ description
made up or manufactured wholly or in part, felts not woven,
and not specially provided for in this section, composed
wholly or in part of wool, the duty per pound shall be four
times the duty imposed by this section on 1 pound of
unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto
50 per cent ad valorem.

383. Webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings,
beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, edgings, insertings,
flouncings, fringes, glm})s, cords, cords and tassels, ribbons,
ornaments, laces, trimmings, and articles made wholly or in
part of lace, embroideries and all articles embroidered by
hand or machinery, head nets, nettings, buttons or barrel
buttons or buttons of other forms for tassels or ornaments,
and manufactures of wool ornamented with beads or spangles
of whatever material composed, any of the foregoing made
of wool or of which wool is a component material, whether
containing india rubber or not, 36 cents per pound and
60 per cent ad valorem.

384. Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille car-
pets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like
character or description, 30 cents per square yard, and in
addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem.

385. Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay velvet carpets, figured
or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or
description, 30 cents per square yard, and in addition thereto
40 per cent ad valorem.

386. Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or
carpeting of like character or description, 24 cents per square
yard, and in addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem.

390 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

387. Velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain,
printed on the warp or otherwise, and all carpets or carpet-
ing of like character or description, 20 cents per square
yard, and in addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem.

388. Tapestry Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all
carpets or carpeting of like character or description, printed
on the warp or otherwise, 14 cents per square yard, and in
addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem.

389. Treble ingrain, three-ply, and all chain Venetian
carpets, 11 cents per square yard, and in addition thereto
40 per cent ad valorem.

390. Wool Dutch and 2-ply ingrain carpets, 9 cents per
square yard, and in addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem.

391. Carpets of every description, woven whole for rooms,
and Oriental, Berlin, Aubusson, Axminster, and similar rugs,
8 cents per square foot and 40 per cent ad valorem: Provided,
Tliat in the measurement of all mats, rugs, carpets, and
similar articles, of whatever material composed, the selvage,
if any, shall be included.

392. Druggets and bockings, printed, colored, or other-
wise, 11 cents per square yard, and in addition thereto 40 per
cent ad valorem.

393. Carpets and carpeting of wool, flax, or cotton, or
composed in part of any of them, not specially provided for
in this section, and mats, matting, and rugs of cotton, 40 per
cent ad valorem.

394. Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks,
bedsides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpet-
ing, made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially pro-
vided for in this section, shall be subjected to the rate of
duty herein imposed on carpets or carpetings of like character
or description.

395. Whenever, in any schedule of this act, the word
" wool " is used in connection with a manufactured article,
of which it is a component material, it shall be held to
include wool or hair of the sheep, camel, goat, alpaca, or
other animal, whether manufactured by the woolen, worsted,
felt, or any other process.

395 1-. In no case shall any of the articles or fabrics
enumerated in this schedule pay a duty more than is equiva-
lent to an ad valorem duty of 80 per cent.

SENATOR SMOOT's ARGUMENT.

Senator Smoot subsequently said in closing the debate on
the wool and woolen bill:

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 391

I wish that the Senator from Montana (Mr. Dixon) were
present, for, in a spirit of friendship and kindness, I wanted
to call attention to some of the statements made by him
yesterday, because I believe that he has been misinformed as
to the price of wool in London and the price of wool in this
country, or as to the grade and classification of the wools
compared. On further examination, I am positive the Sen-
ator would make the correction. If true, his statement
proves beyond question that our wool growers in this country
are in such a disorganized condition or so wofully lack
business capacity that a tariff rate of any amount would not
help them, for they sell their wool for the price offered them
and do not take into consideration the world price, knowing
that the manufacturer must import wools and pay the London
price plus the duty, whatever it is.

Congress cannot legislate a market for wool. That is
impossible. It can legislate a duty upon wool in the grease
of 11 cents per pound, a duty on washed wool of 22 cents,
a duty on scoured wool of 33 cents a pound ; but it cannot
pass a law directing the wool men of this country to sell
their wool for 11 cents more in the grease than it is sold in
foreign lands, grade, shrinkage, and classification being equal;
nor can it say to the manufacturer: "You must pa}^ 11 cents
per pound more for like wools." Eliminate from the present
law the skirting clause and increase the rate on washed wools
of the second class to twice that of wools of the second class
in the grease and the average shrinkage of foreign wools
imported into this country will be about the same as the
American wools, grade for grade alike. I know for the last
year the American wool grower has not received much benefit
from the tariff, but the reason for that is the fear of the
American manufacturer, the only purchaser the wool grower
has, that the revision of Schedule K will place wool on the
free list or nearly so. The manufacturer must look ahead at
least one year, for it takes at least that length of time after
purchasing the wool in the grease before he can convert the
wool into finished goods and get returns from the sale of
them. He is not like a merchant who can buy a sack of
sugar to-day and it is sold to-morrow. One hundred per cent
on wools with inadequate protection of the manufactured
article would not benefit the wool grower a penny, for with
the American mills closed and woolen goods being furnished
the American people by foreign manufacturers the wool
grower would have to look to the foreigner for a market
for his wool.

892 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS,

Mr. President, the agitation which has been going on,
through the newspapers and magazines of this country, I
believe, on a moderate estimate, has cost the industries
covered by Schedule K $150,000,000. It caused the farmers
who grow wool to sell the clip of 1910 at 125,000,000 less
than they received for the 1909 clip. Prices in the United
States have fallen 30 per cent, while everywhere else in
the world they have advanced 10 per cent. The prices in the
value of wool carried over from 1909 to this year, with the
goods made therefrom, has been another $25,000,000. There
has been a shrinkage of 12 per head in the value of 25,000,000
sheep, making another $50,000,000.

But tlie most cruel effect of this agitation has been felt
by the laborers employed in the mills that manufacture wool.
Lack of employment and loss of wages from this cause have
been another $50,000,000, and this is the most cruel blow of
all. These losses to a great American industry are caused
by the fear of radical legislation. What the losses would be
in case the House Democratic wool bill became a law no man
can tell, but all must admit that it would be appalling.

We do know that to-day not to exceed 33J per cent of the
woolen cards of this country are running. The business
stands almost paralyzed under the wicked assaults made upon
it. All sorts of misrepresentations and falsehoods by indi-
viduals and press have been directed at Schedule K. It has
been made the basis of criticism of the last tariff act. What
has Schedule K done for this country? It has stimulated the
_ manufacture of ready made clothing, so that a suit in this
countr}', fashionably cut and well tailored, made of an all
wool worsted fabric, can be bought for less money than
would have to be paid in Europe for a similar suit made
there by a merchant tailor, admitting that his cloth in Europe
is only one-half the price of similar cloth in America. So an
English laborer coming here could purchase a suit of clothes
for one week's pay which he could not get in England for
two weeks' pay. A German laborer could purchase a suit of
clothes for one week's pay here which he could not buy in
Germany for three weeks' pay. An Italian laborer could buy
here his suit for one week's pay, which he could not buy in
Italy for five weeks' pay. A Chinese or a Japanese laborer
could buy here a suit of clothes for one week's pay which he
could not buy in China or Japan for 14^ weeks' pay.

So I say, Mr. President, that Schedule K has not been so
bad after all, when considering the grade and the price of
clothing to the American people.

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 393

I wish that every American citizen actually knew what the
manufacturer received for the cloth in his suit of clothes. I
wish that every American citizen knew that a blue or black
worsted serge can be bought by the American clothing manu-
facturer, he who makes the cloth into clothes, for from $2.90
to $5 per suit. I believe if he understood it there would not
be this hue and cry against the woolen manufacturer of this
country.

I realize, Mr. President, that while my State is chiefly
interested in the development of the sheep industrj' and the
growth of wool, its people must have a home market for that
wool, or, no matter what duty is levied upon it, they would
get no benefit from it. Therefore, I am interested not only
in protecting the wool grower, but I am interested also in
protecting the woolen manufacturer, because he is the only
purchaser of the product of the wool grower in this country.

The production of a woolen mill is sold to the trade six
months ahead on samples made and submitted by it. These
sample pieces are made by every mill twice a year, one lot
called " lightweights " and the other known as " heavy-
weights." They are first made in blanket form, and the mill
designer hardly knows whether the blanket will contain suc-
cessful patterns or not. A blanket may contain a thousand
different designs and but few found, after finishing, worthy of
selection as popular sellers. The success of a mill greatly
depends upon the designer, for if the samples made by him
are not what the trade demands in color, styles, pattern,
price and finish the mill will be idle for want of orders, while
if his designs are popular and the trade requirements met as
to patterns, fabric and price, the mill will be crowded with
orders. No mill is always successful in this regard. Every
cloth mill has a designer, makes its own samples, submits them
to the trade twice a year. For these reasons it is impossible
to form a woolen manufactureis' trust. There is always the
sharpest kind of competition.

There have been, Mr. President, statements made in the
Senate and a sentiment created in this country that there was
a woolen manufacturers' trust or monopoly. Any person who
understands the manufacturing of woolen goods would never
make such a statement. The plan of converting wool into
goods is of such a nature that it is impossible, unless all or
the great majority of the mills are actually owned by one
incorporation.

Mr. President, in the United States we have over a thou-
sand woolen mills. The American Woolen Company, or the

394 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MAMUFACTUllERS.

so-called trust, own about 30 of these thousand mills. They
have nearly 8,000 looms. In America there are nearly
70,000 looms. There is produced in this country over
1450,000,000 in woolen goods. The American Woolen Com-
pany produce between $28,000,000 and $35,000,000 of this
amount. Every other mill of the nearly thousand in this
country make their own goods, submit them to the trade
every year, sell their goods upon the samples submitted —
there are no two mills with samples just alike — so I say it
is impossible under these conditions to form a woolen goods
trust.

It has been charged by Senators not once, but a good
many times, that the profits in the woolen business are exor-
bitant, and it is claimed that it is the result of the tariff that
these immense profits are possible. I ask leave to put in the
Record a table showing the actual profits of some of the
leading mills in the different sections of this country. It
shows that the average profit of those mills is less than 7 per
cent per annum.

(The table presented by Senator Smoot was one that had
been submitted to the Committee on Ways and Means, show-
ing that the average net return on average capital invested
in a number of representative New England wool and cotton
mills from 1889-1908 was 6.67 per cent.)

Mr. Smoot added :

Mr. President, I want to briefly call attention to another
matter, and that is the question of levying ad valorem duties
on woolen goods. Every time that a bill has been passed
since 1867 changing the system of specific duties or the plan
of specific and ad valorem duties combined in Schedule K it
has proved a disaster to the business of this country.

Mr. President, take the act of 1883, called anybody's act,
but desired by nobody and damned by everybody, and what
do we find '' The specific duties were lowered, especially
upon cloths and wastes. The result was heavy importations
and a period of depression in the woolen business. I have
here a table showing the years, the rate of duty, the quantity
imported in pounds, the value of the product, the duty col-
lected, the average price per unit, and tlie average ad valorem
duty. Take rags, shoddy, and mnngo. Under a duty of 10
cents a pound we imported 1,235,360 pounds in 1884, the
first year of the act. The importation grew until in 1889 we

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 395

imported 8,478,984 pounds. Take the importations of the
manufactures of wool, or of cloth, or of flannels, and the
difference is as great, and in some cases greater.

Coming now to the Wilson law, I have here, Mr. President,
a statement showing the importation of cloths, woolen or
worsted. The Senator from Mississippi (Mr. Williams)
the other day stated that it was not on account of the rates
in the Wilson law that the woolen mills in this country
were closed, but it was because, he said, the purchasing
power of the people was not so great and there was a stag-
nation of business all over the world. I want to call the
attention of Senators to the fact that there was a stagna-
tion of business in America: the purchasing power of the
American people was reduced by lack of employment over
one-half, and instead of goods being made here by American
labor they were made abroad ; but, hard as the times were,
little money as the people had, the importation of woolen
and worsted goods, dress goods, yarns and wastes actually
increased.

Mr. President, if the market for American wool is to be
destroyed it makes no difference to the wool grower whether
it is accomplished by a high duty on wool with a low enough
duty on woolen goods to close the mills, his onl}' purchaser,
or by a law giving inadequate protection on wool. A pound
of manufactured cloth imported into this country displaces
four pounds of American raised wool in the grease and
deprives the American laboi'er of employment in making the
wool into cloth. I want to call the attention of Senators to
the fact that shoddies and wastes of all kinds imported into
this country for three years and eight months, under the
McKinley law beginning in 1891 up to 1894, were 908,923
pounds.

During the three years and four months of the Wilson
law the importations had increased from 908,923 pounds to
86,263,630 pounds, an increase of not 100 per cent, not 1,000
per cent, but of 9,000 per cent. That was the period when
shoddy reigned. We all remember those days when the
theory of free raw materials and a duty for revenue only on
manufactured goods was put in practice. That was the
time the American people were clothed with patched suits or
cloth made of rags and shoddy, instead of wool. Mr. Presi-
dent, what does that mean? It means that it would take
the State of California 19 years to raise wool enough to
equal the importation of shoddy for those three years and
four months. It would take the State of Wisconsin 27

396 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

years, under her present production, to produce wool enough
to take the place of the shoddy that was imported into this
country under the Wilson law during three years and four
months. . We find that during the 13 years after the repeal
of the Wilson law, there have been imported into this coun-
try only 6,751,557 pounds of shoddies and wastes.

Mr. President, if the Democratic wool bill passes this
Senate and becomes a law, there will be scarcely a woolen
mill in this country that can survive. I plead with Senators
to save the business, because it is a great one. Senators
will notice that even under the rates to-day there is collected
in revenue from the importations of manufactured woolen
goods something like $20,000,000. It seems to me that the
only proper way to handle this question is to wait for the
report of the Tariff Board, not particularly to learn what
the wages in this country are, not particularly as to what the
cost of production of wool in this country is, but more par-
ticularly to obtain the cost of production of wool in foreign
countries and what the cost of production of cloth in foreign
countries is, and especially the wage paid the employees.

Mr. President, an ad valorem duty equaling the difference
between the cost of production in this country and a foreign
country is never a protective duty, for undervaluation has
been and always will be resorted to by the importer and for-
eign manufacturer; it cannot be avoided and has always
proven a curse to the protective system and a robbery of the
Public Treasury ; but a specific duty cannot be evaded. It
is so much a pound, while an ad valorem duty is based
upon the value of goods at the last port of shipment. What
protection would the wool grower receive under the 20 per
cent ad valorem duty? I received a telegram this morning
giving the price of wool per pound, unskirted, in Buenos
Aires — wool that comes in direct competition with 85 per
cent of all the wool grown in the Rocky Mountain States,
shrinking 65 per cent. The price named is 13i cents per
pound. Twenty per cent on 13i cents is 2.6 cents per
pound.

Mr. President, I say to the Senate now that if the House
bill should become a law, it would be worse in its operation
on the wool industry than the Wilson law, because under
the Wilson law the manufacturers were given an average
duty upon cloth of from 40 to 50 percent. It was utterly
impossible for the mills with those rates of ad valorem duty
to exist with free wool, and under the Underwood bill the
manufacturer is taxed 20 per cent on his wool and only given

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 397

an average ad valorem duty of 35 to 40 per cent. Under
such conditions it would be impossible for the manufacturer
to exist and if the manufacturer should cease to run his mill
the market of the American wool grower would be taken from
him, and it would be impossible for him to raise wool for
exportation.

VOTE IN THE SENATE.

On July 27 the wool and woolen legislation was called
up under a unanimous agreement for action in the Senate.
Senator Smoot did not press his substitute for action. The
proposed La FoUette substitute was first rejected by a vote
of 14 yeas to 66 nays — only "insurgent" Republican Sena-
tors supporting it. Then, on the vote of 36 yeas to 44 nays,
the Underwood bill, H. R. 11019, was also rejected by the
Senate — only one Republican, an " insurgent," Senator
Brown of Nebraska, supporting it. This result, of course,
had been anticipated, but the real result of the Democratic-
" insurgent " coalition came when Senator La Follette moved
to reconsider the vote by which the bill failed to pass. This
motion was carried on a vote of 49 yeas to 31 nays, all of the
Democrats and 14 "insurgent" Senators, Borah, Bourne,
Bristow, Brown, Clapp, Crawford, Cummins, Gronna, Kenyon,
La Follette, McCumber, Nelson, Poindexter, and Works,
being recorded in the affirmative.

Senator La Follette then offered a revised amendment as
a substitute for the House bill, reducing his proposed duty
on wool from 40 to 35 per cent and other duties accordingly.
This motion was carried on a vote of 48 yeas to 31 nays —
the same division as on the previous motion, except that now
Senator Borah, who had voted to reconsider, reversed his
vote and stood with the regular Republicans. On the final
passage of the bill as amended there was the same division,
48 to 32.

THE REVISED LA FOLLETTE SCHEDULE.

The revised La Follette proposal, as thus adopted and
passed by the Senate, was as follows :

398 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Section 1. The act approved August 5, 1909, entitled
" An act to provide revenue, equalize duties, and encourage
the industries of the United States, and for other purposes,"
is hereb}^ amended by striking out all of Schedule K thereof,
being paragraphs 360 to 395, inclusive, and inserting in lieu
thereof the following :

SCHEDULE K. — WOOL AND MANUFACTURES THEREOF.

360. All wool, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and' other
like animals, shall be divided, for the purposes of this act,
into the three following classes :

361. Class 1, that is to say, merino, mestiza, metz, or
metis wools, or other wools of merino blood, immediate or
remote, Down clothing wools, and wools of like character
with any of the preceding, including Bagdad wool, China
lamb's wool, Castel Branco, Adrianople skin wool, or
butcher's wool, and such as have been heretofore usually
imported into the United States from Buenos Aires, New
Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great
Britain, Canada, Egypt, Morocco, and elsewhere, Leicester,
Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Down combing wools, Canada long
wools, or other like combing wools of English blood and
usually known by the terms herein used, and all wools not
hereinafter included in Class 2.

362. Class 2, that is to say, Donskoi, native South Ameri-
can, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, and all such wools
of like character as have been heretofore usually imported
into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Syria, and else-
where, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for ;
the hair of the camel, Angora goat, alpaca, and other like
animals.

363. The standard samples of all wools which are now or
may be hereafter deposited in the principal custom-houses of
the United States, under the authority of the Secretary of
the Treasury, shall be the standards for the classification
of wools under this act, and the Secretary of the Treasury is
authorized to renew these standards and to make such addi-
tions to them from time to time as may be required, and he
shall cause to be deposited like standards in other custom-
houses of the United States when they shall be needed.

364. Whenever wools of Class 2 shall have been improved
by the admixture of merino or English blood, from their
present character as represented by the standard samples now
or hereafter to be deposited in the principal custom-houses

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 399

of the United States, such improved wools shall be classified
for duty as Class 1.

365. The duty on wools of the first class shall be 35 per
cent ad valorem.

3t)6. The duty upon wools of Class 2 shall be 10 per cent
ad valorem.

367. The duty on wools on the skin shall be as follows :
Class 1, 30 per cent ad valorem ; Class 2, 10 per cent ad
valorem ; the quantity and value of the wool to be ascer-
tained under such rules as the Secretary of the Treasury
may prescribe.

368. Top waste, slubbing waste, roving waste, ring waste,
and garnetted waste, 30 per cent ad valorem.

369. Shoddy, noils, wool extract, yarn waste, thread
waste, and all other wastes composed wholly of wool or of
which wool is the component material of chief value, and not
specially provided for in this section, 25 per cent ad valorem.

370. Woolen rags, mungo, and flocks, 25 per cent ad
valorem.

371. Combed wool or tops, and all wools which have been
advanced in any manner or by any process of manufacture
beyond the washed or scoured condition, not specially pro-
vided for in this section, 40 (jer cent ad valorem.

372. On yarns made wholly of wool or of which wool is
the component material of chief value, the duty shall be 45
per cent ad valorem.

373. On cloths, knit fabrics, blankets, and flannels for
underwear, composed wholly of wool or of which wool is the
component material of chief value, women's and children's
dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, bunting, clothing
ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every descrip-
tion, including shawls, whether knitted or woven, and knitted
articles of every description made up or manufactured wholly
or in part, felts not woven, and not specially provided for in
this section, webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings,
beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, edgings, insertings,
flouncings, fringes, gimps, cords and tassels, ribbons, orna-
ments, laces, trimmings, and articles made wholly or in part
of lace, embroideries, and all articles embroidered by hand or
machinery, head nets, nettings, buttons or barrel buttons or
buttons of other forms for tassels or ornaments, and manu-
factures of wool ornamented with beads or spangles of what-
ever material composed, any of the foregoing made of wool
or of which wool is the component material of chief value,

400 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

whether containing India rubber or not, 55 per cent ad
valorem.

374. Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille car-
pets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like
character or description ; Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay
velvet carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting
of like character or description ; Brussels carpets, figured or
plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or descrip-
tion ; velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain,
printed on the warp or otherwise, and all carpets or carpet-
ing of like character or description; tapestry Brussels car-
pets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like
character or description, printed on the warp or otherwise ;
treble ingrain, three-ply, and all chain Venetian carpets ;
wool Dutch and two-ply ingrain carpets ; carpets of every
description, woven whole for rooms ; oriental, Berlin, Aubus-
son, Axminster, and similar rugs ; druggets and bockings,
printed, colored, or otherwise ; all the foregoing, made of
wool, or of which wool is the component material of chief
value, 35 per cent ad valorem.

375. Carpets and carpeting of wool or of which wool is
the component material of chief value, not specially provided
for in this section, 35 per cent ad valorem.

376. Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks, bed-
sides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpeting
made wholly of wool or of which wool is the component
material of chief value, and not specially provided for in this
section, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed
on carpets or carpeting of like character or description.

377. Whenever, in any schedule of this act, the word
" wool " is used in connection with a manufactured article
of which it is a component material, it shall be held to
include wool or hair of the sheep, camel, goat, alpaca, or
other animal, whether manufactured by a woolen, worsted,
felt, or any other process.

378. All manufactures of hair of the camel, goat, alpaca,
or other like animal, or of which any of the hair mentioned
in paragraph 363 form the component material of chief value,
shall be subject to a duty of 30 per cent ad valorem.

Sect. 2. That on and after the day when this act shall go
into effect all goods, wares, and merchandise previously
imported, and hereinbefore enumerated, described, and pro-
vided for, for which no entry has been made, and all such
goods, wares, and merchandise previously entered without
payment of duty and under bond for warehousing transpor-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 401

tation, or any other purpose, for which no permit of delivery
to the importer or his agent has been issued, shall be sub-
jected to the duties imposed by this act, and no other duty,
upon the entry or the withdrawal thereof.

Sect. 3. That all acts and parts of acts in conflict with
the provisions of this act be, and the same are hereby,
repealed. This act shall take effect and be in force on and
after the first day of January, 1912.

The wool and woolen bill as amended was received in the
House on July 28. On August 1 Chairman Underwood in
the House moved to disagree to the Senate amendment and
to ask for a conference. This was moved and agreed to, and
Speaker Clark announced as the conferees on the part of the
House, Chairman Underwood, Representative Randell of
Texas, Representative Harrison of New York, Representa-
tive Payne of New York, and Representative Dalzell of
Pennsylvania — all members of the Committee on Ways and
Means.

On the following day, August 2, the Senate, on motion of
Chairman Penrose of the Committee on Finance, insisted
upon this amendment to the bill, and complied with the
request of the House of Representatives for a conference.
Vice-President Sherman thereupon appointed as conferees on
the part of the Senate, Senator Penrose of Pennsylvania,
Senator Cullom of Illinois, Senator La Follette of Wisconsin,
Senator Bailey of Texas, and Senator Simmons of North
Carolina — all members of the Committee on Finance.

CONFERENCE REPORT.

On August 12 the Conference Committee submitted its
report to the House of Representatives and on August 14 to
the Senate, as follows :

CONFERENCE REPORT.
{To accompany H. R. 11019)

The committee of conference on the disagreeing votes of
the two Houses on the amendment of the Senate to the bill
(H. R. 11019) to reduce the duties on wool and manufactures-
of wool, having met, after full and free conference, have

402 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

agreed to recommend and do recommend to their respective
Houses as follows :

That the House recede from its disagreement to the amend-
ment of the Senate and agree to the same with an amendment
as follows :

In lieu of the matter inserted by said amendment insert
the following :

That the Act approved August 5, 1909, entitled " An Act
to provide revenue, equalize duties, and encourage the indus-
tries of the United States, and for other purposes," is hereby
amended by striking out all of Schedule K thereof, being
paragraphs 360 to 395, inclusive, and inserting in lieu thereof
the following:

SCHEDULE K. — WOOL AND MANUFACTURES THEREOF.

360. On wool of the sheep, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca,
and other like animals, and on all wools and hair on the skin
of such animals, the duty shall be 29 per cent ad valorem.

361. On all noils, top waste, card waste, slubbing waste,
roving waste, ring waste, yarn waste, burr waste, thread waste,
garnetted waste, shoddies, mungo, flocks, wool extract, car-
bonized wool, carbonized noils, and on all other wastes and
on woolen rags composed wholly of wool or of which wool is
the component material of chief value, and not specially pro-
vided for in this section, the duty shall be 29 per cent ad
valorem.

362. On combed wool or tops and roving or roping, made
wholly of wool or camel's hair, or of which wool or camel's
hair is the component material of chief value, and all wools
and hair which have been advanced in any manner or by any
process of manufacture beyond the washed or scoured condi-
tion, not specially provided for in this section, the duty shall
be 32 per cent ad valorem.

363. On yarns made wholly of wool or of which wool is
the component material of chief value, the duty shall be 35
per cent ad valorem.

364. On cloths, knit fabrics, flannels not for underwear,
composed wholly of wool or of which wool is the component
material of chief value, women's and children's dress goods,
coat linings, Italian cloths, bunting, and goods of similar
description and character, clothing, ready-made, and articles
of wearing apparel of every description, including shawls,
whether knitted or woven, and knitted articles of every
description made up or manufactured wholly or in part, felts

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 403

not woven, and not specially provided for in this section,
webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, bandings, beltings,
bindings, braids, galloons, edgings, insertings, flouncings,
fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, ribbons, ornaments,
laces, trimmings, and articles made wholly or in part of lace,
embroideries and all articles embroidered by hand or machin-
ery, head nets, nettings, buttons or barrel buttons or buttons
of other forms for tassels or ornaments, and manufactures of
wool ornamented with beads or spangles of whatever material
composed, on any of the foregoing and on all manufactures
of every description made by any process of wool or of which
wool is the component material of chief value, whether con-
taining India rubber or not, not specially provided for in this
section, the duty shall be 49 per cent ad valorem.

365. On all blankets, and flannels for underwear, com-
posed wholly of wool, or of which wool is the component
material of chief value, the duty shall be 38 per cent ad
valorem.

366. On Aubusson, Axminster, moquette, and chenille
carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like
character or description ; on Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay
velvet carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting
of like character or description ; and on carpets of every
description, woven whole for rooms, and Oriental, Berlin,
Aubusson, Axminster, and similar rugs, the duty shall be 50
per cent ad valorem.

367. On Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all car-
pets or carpeting of like character or description ; and on
velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain, printed
on the warp or otherwise, and all carpets or carpeting of like
character or description, the duty shall be 40 per cent ad
valorem.

368. On tapestry Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and
all carpets or carpeting of like character or description,
printed on the warp or otherwise ; on treble ingrain, three-
ply, and all-chain Venetian carpets ; on wool Dutch and two-
ply ingrain carpets ; on druggets and bockings, printed,
colored, or otherwise ; and on carpets and carpeting of wool
or of which wool is the component material of chief value,
not specially provided for in this section, the duty shall be
30 per cent ad valorem.

369. Mats, rugs for floors, screens, covers, hassocks, bed-
sides, art squares, and other portions of carpets or carpeting
made wholly of wool or of which wool is the component

404 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

material of chief value, and not specially provided for in this
section, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed
on carpets or carpeting of like character or description.

370. On all manufactures of hair of the camel, goat,
alpaca, or other like animal, or of which any of the hair
mentioned in paragraph 360 form the component material of
chief value, not specially provided for in this section, the
duty shall be 49 per cent ad valorem.

371. Whenever in this act the word "wool" is used in
connection with a manufactured article of which it is a com-
ponent material, it shall be held to include wool or hair of
the sheep, camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals, whether
manufactured by the woolen, worsted, felt, or any other
process.

Sect. 2. That on and after the day when this act shall
go into effect all goods, wares, and merchandise previously
imported and hereinbefore enumerated, described, and pro-
vided for, for which no entry has been made, and all such
goods, wares, and merchandise previously entered without
payment of duty and under bond for warehousing, transpor-
tation, or any other purpose, for which no permit of delivery
to the importer or his agent has been issued, shall be sub-
jected to no other duty upon the entry or withdrawal thereof
than the duty which would be imposed if such goods, wares,
or merchandise were imported on or after that date.

Sect. 3. That all acts and parts of acts in conflict with
the provisions of this act be, and the same- are hereby,
repealed. This act shall take effect and be in force on and
after the first day of October, 1911.

And the Senate agree to the same.

O. W. Underwood,

C. B. Randell,

Francis Burton Harrison,

Managers on the part of the House.

Robert M. La Follettb,
J. W. Bailey,

F. M. SlMISIONS,

Managers on the pari of the Senate.

On August 14 the compromise bill, as agreed to by the
committee, was passed by the House on a vote of 206 to 90,

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 405

all the Democrats, 30 Republicans, chiefly " insurgents," and
1 independent Republican recording themselves in the
afiirmative. With the exception of Akin, New York, inde-
pendent Republican, all of the Republican votes for the
measure came from Western States.

On the following day, August 15, the bill passed the
Senate by a vote of 38 to 28, all the Democratic Senators and
8 "insurgent" Republicans supporting it. Senator Bourne
on this vote refused to stand with Senator La Follette and
was recorded with the regular Republicans in the negative.
Senator Nelson of Minnesota, who had voted with Mr. La
Follette at previous stages of the bill, also voted on this final
test against it — indicating the growing dissatisfaction of the
wool growers of the West with the La Follette program of
compromise or surrender.

THE president's VETO MESSAGE.

The bill was presented to the President on the following
day, and on the next day, August 17, Mr. Taft sent to the
Senate and House his anticipated message of veto, saying :

To the House of Representatives :

I return without my approval House bill No. 11019 with
a statement of my reasons for so doing.

The bill is an amendment of the existing tariff law, and
readjusts the customs duties in what is known as Schedule
,K, embracing wool and the manufactures of wool.

I was elected to the Presidency as the candidate of a party
which in its platform declared its aim and purpose to be to
maintain a protective tariff by " the imposition of such duties
as will equal the difference between the cost of production
at home and abroad, together with a reasonable profit to
American industries." I have always regarded this language
as fixing the proper measure of protection at the ascertained
difference between the cost of production at home and that
abroad, and have construed the reference to the profit of
American industries as intended, not to add a new element
to the measure stated or to exclude from the cost of produc-
tion abroad the element of a manufacturer's or producer's
profit, but only to emphasize the importance of including in

406 ]SrATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the American cost a manufacturer's or producer's profit
reasonable according to the American standard.

In accordance with a promise made in the same platform I
called an extra session of the Sixty-first Congress, at which a
general revision of the tariff was made and adopted in the
Payne bill. It was contended by those who opposed the
Payne bill that the existing rates of the Dingley bill were
excessive and that the rates adopted in the revising statute
were not sufficiently reduced to conform to the promised
measure.

The great difficulty, however, in discussing the new rates
adopted was that there were no means available by which
impartial persons could determine what, in fact, was the
difference in cost of production between the products of this
country and the same products abroad. The American
public became deeply impressed with the conviction that,
in order to secure a proper revision of the tariff in the future,
exact information as to the effect of the new rates must be
had, and that the evil of logrolling or a compromise between
advocates of different protected industries in fixing duties
could be avoided, and the interest of the consuming public
could be properly guarded, only by revising the tariff one
schedule at a time.

To help these reforms for the future, I took advantage of
a clause in the Payne tariff bill enabling me to create a
Tariff Board of three members and directed them to make a
glossary and encyclopedia of the terms used in the tariff and
to secure information as to the comparative cost of prodnc-
tion of dutiable articles under the tariff at home and abroad.
In my message to Congress of December 7, 1909, I asked a
continuing annual appropriation for the support of the
board and said :

I believe that the work of this board will be of prime
utility and importance whenever Congress shall deem it
wise again to readjust the customs duties. If the facts
secured b}^ the Tariff Board are of such a character as
to show generally that the rates of duties imposed by
the present tariff law are excessive under the principles
of protection as described in the platform of the success-
ful party at the late election, I shall not hesitate to
invite the attention of Congress to this fact, and to the
necessity for action predicated thereon. Nothing, how-
ever, halts business and interferes with the course of
prosperity so much as the threatened revision of the

WOOL AND WOOLENS IX CONGRESS. 407

tariff, and until the facts are at hand, after careful and
deliberate investigation, upon which such revision can
properly be undertaken, it seems to me unwise to
attempt it. The amount of misinformation that creeps
into arguments pro and con in respect to tariff rates is
such as to require the kind of investigation that I have
directed the Tariff Board to make, an investigation
undertaken by it wholly without respect to the effect
which the facts may have in calling for a readjustment
of the rates of duty.

A popular demand arose for the formal creation by law of
a permanent nonpartisan tariff commission. Commercial
bodies all over the country united in a movement to secure
adequate legislation for this purpose and an association with
a nation-wide constituency was organized to promote the
cause. The public opinion in favor of such a commission
was evidenced by resolutions adopted in 1909 and 1910 by
Republican State conventions in at least 28 States.

In addition, efforts were made to secure a change in the
rules of procedure in the House and Senate wdtli a view to
preventing the consideration of tariff changes except schedule
by schedule.

The business of the country rests on a protective-tariff
basis. The public keenly realized that a disturbance of
business by a change in the tariff and a threat of injury to
the industries of the country ought to be avoided, and that
nothing could help so much to minimize the fear of destruc-
tive changes as the known existence of a reliable source of
information for legislative action. The deep interest in the
matter of an impartial ascertainment of facts before any new
revision, was evidenced by an effort to pass a tariff-commis-
sion bill in the short session of the Sixty-first Congress, in
which many of both parties united. Such a bill passed both
houses. It provided a commission of five members, to be
appointed by the President, not more than three of whom
were to belong to the same party, and gave them the power
and made it their duty to investigate the operation of the
tariff, the comparative cost of production at home and
abroad, and like matters of importance in fixing the terms of
a revenue measure, and required them to report to the
Executive and to Congress when directed. Several not
vital amendments were made in the Senate, which necessi-
tated a return of the bill to the House, where, because of the

408 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

limited duration of the session, a comparatively small minor-
ity were able to prevent its becoming a law.

On the failure of this bill, I took such steps as I could to
make the Tariff Board I had already appointed a satisfactory
substitute for the proposed tariff commission. An appropri-
ation of $225,000, to continue the work until June 30, 1912,
had been granted by Congress in the alternative, to be
applied to the board I had appointed, unless a tariff commis-
sion bill was passed. In this appropriation bill the non-
partisan tariff commission, if created and appointed, was
directed to make a report on Schedule K by December 1,
1911. Accordingly I added two members to the Tariff
Board from the opposition party, and directed the board to
make report on Schedule K by December 1 next. The board
differs in no way from the tariff commission as it would have
been, except in its power to summon witnesses ; and I am
advised by the members of the board that, without this
power, they have had no difficulty in securing the informa-
tion they desire.

The board took some months to investigate the methods
pursued in other countries in procuring information on
tariff subjects and to organize its force. In October, 1910,
its work of investigation began with a force of 40 that has
now increased to 80. In addition to the " glossary," which
is near completion, and other work connected with furnish-
ing information in connection with the enforcement of the
maximum and minimum clause of the Payne Tariff Act, and
in respect to the Canadian reciprocity measure, its attention
has been especially directed to comparative cost under
Schedule K (wool and woolens), under Schedule M (paper
and pulp), and under Schedule I (cotton manufactures). The
report on Schedule M (pulp and paper) has already been sent
to Congress. Full reports on wool and cotton will be sub-
mitted to Congress in December. I have also directed an
investigation into the metal and leather schedules, the
results of which it is hoped can be submitted to Congress at
its first regular session in time to permit their consideration
and legislative action, if necessary.

The organization known as the Tariff Commission Associ-
ation, made up of representatives of substantially all the
commercial bodies of the country, for the purpose of secur-
ing the establishment of a permanent tariff commission,
applied to me for an opportunity to investigate the methods
pursued by the Tariff" Board. This I was glad to grant, and

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGRESS. 409

a very full report of the competent committee of that asso-
ciation concluded as follows :

In conclusion, our committee finds that the Tariff
Board is composed of able, impartial, and earnest men,
who are devoting their energies unreservedly to the
work before them ; that the staff has been carefully
selected for the work in view, is efficiently organized
and directed, and includes a number of exceptionally
competent technical experts ; . . . that the work of
the board, vast and intricate in detail, is already highly
organized, well systematized, and running smoothly ; and
that Congress and the people can now await the com-
pletion of that work with entire confidence that it is
progressing as rapidly as consistent with proper thor-
oughness, and that it will amplj^ justify all of the time
and expense which it entails. We believe that the
value of the work when completed will be so great and
so evident as to leave remaining no single doubt as to
the expediency of maintaining it as a permanent func-
tion of the Government for the benefit of the people.

I have thus reviewed the history of the movement for the
establishment of a tariff commission or board in order to
show that the real advance and reform in tariff making are
to be found in the acquirement of accurate and impartial
information as to the effect of the pro[)osed tariff changes
under each schedule before they are adopted, and further to
show that if delay in the passage of a bill to amend Sched-
ule K can be had until December, Congress will then be in
possession of a full and satisfactory report upon the whole
schedule.

This brings me to the consideration of the terms of the
bill presented for my approval. Schedule K is the most com-
plicated schedule in the tariff. It classifies raw wool with
different rates for different classes ; it affords a manufacturer
what is called a compensatory duty to make up for the
increased price of the raw material he has to use due to the
rate on raw wool, and for the shrinkage that takes place in
scouring the wool for manufacture ; and it gives him, in addi-
tion, an ad valorem duty to protect him against foreign com-
petition with cheap labor. The usages which prevail in
scouring the wool, in making the yarn, and in the manu-
facture of cloth present a complication -of technical detail
that prevents any one, not especiall}^ informed concerning

410 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

wool growing and manufacture, from understanding the
schedule and the effect of changes in the various rates and
percentages.

If there ever was a schedule that needed consideration and
investigation and elaborate explanation by experts before its
amendment, it is Schedule K. There is a widespread belief
that many rates in the present schedule are too high and are
in excess of any needed protection for the wool grower or
manufacturer. I share this belief and have so stated in
several public addresses. But I have no sufficient data upon
which I can judge how Schedule K ought to be amended or
how its rates ought to be reduced, in order that the new bill
shall furnish the proper measure of protection and no more.
Nor have I sources of information which satisfy me that the
bill presented to me for signature will accomplish this result.
The parliamentary history of the bill is not reassuring upon
this point. It was introduced and passed in the House as
providing a tariff for revenue only and with the avowed pur-
pose of departing from a protective-tariff policy. The rate
of duty on raw wools of all classes was changed from a
specific duty of 11 cents a pound to 20 per cent ad valorem.
On the average for the importations for the last two years
this is a reduction from 47.24 per cent to 20 per cent. Rates
on cloths were reduced in the bill from the present average
duty of 97.27 per cent to 40 per cent and on wearing apparel
from 81.31 per cent to 45 per cent. The bill was defeated in
the Senate, and so was a substitute introduced as a protection
measure. The proposed substitute fixed the duty on raw
wool, first class, at 40 per cent, and on a second class of
carpet wools at 10 per cent, and on cloths at 60 per cent, and
on wearing apparel at the same rate. On reconsideration, a
compromise measure was passed by the Senate, which was a
compromise between the House bill and the Senate substi-
tute bill, and in which the rate on first-class wool was fixed
at 35 per cent, on carpet wools 10 per cent, and on cloth and
wearing apparel 55 per cent. In conference between the two
houses the rate on all classes of raw wool was fixed at 29
per cent, this being an increase on carpet wools of 9 per cent
as fixed in the House bill and of 19 per cent as fixed in the
Senate bill. The conference rate on cloths and wearing
apparel was fixed at 49 per cent. No evidence as to the cost
of production here or abroad was published, and the compro-
mise amendment in the Senate was adopted without reference
to or consideration by a committee.

WOOL AND WOOLENS IX CONGKESS. 411

I do not mention these facts to criticise the method of
preparation of the bill; but I must needs refer to them to
show that the congressional proceedings make available for
me no accurate or scientifically acquired information which
enables hie to determine that the bill supplies the measure of
protection promised in the platform on which I was elected.

Without any investigation of which the details are availa-
ble, an avowed tariff-for-revenue and antiprotection bill is by
compromise blended with a professed protection bill. Rates
between those of the two bills are adopted and passed, except
that, in some important instances, rates are fixed in the com-
promise at a figure higher, and in others at a figure lower,
than were originally fixed in either house. The principle
followed in adjusting the amendments of existing law is,
therefore, not clear, and the effect of the bill is most
uncertain.

The Wilson Tariff Act of 1894, while giving the manu-
facturer free wool, provided as high duties on leading manu-
factures of wool as does the present bill, which at the same
time taxes the manufacturer's raw material at 29 per cent.
Thus the protection afforded to manufacturers under the
Wilson bill was ver}' considerably liigher than under the
present bill.

During the years in which the Wilson bill was in force the
woolen manufacturers suffered. iVIany mills were compelled
to shut down. These were abnormal years, and it is not nec-
essary to attribute the hard times solely to the tariff act of
1894. But it was at least an addition to other factors oper-
ating to injure the woolen business. It is the only ex{)eri-
ence we have had for a generation of a radical revision of this
schedule, and, without exaggerating its importance, one
pledged to a moderate protection policy may well hesitate
before giving approval without full information to legislation
which makes a more radical reduction in the protection actu-
ally afforded to manufacturers of wool than did the Wilson
Act. Nor does this hesitation arise only for fear of injury to
manufacturers. Unless manufacturers are able to continue
their business and buy wool from domestic wool growers the
latter will have no benefit from the tariff that is supposed to
protect them, because they will have to sell in competition
with foreign wools or send their sheep to the shambles.
Hence the wool grower is as much interested in the protec-
tion of the manufacturer as he is in his own.

It mav well be that conditions of manufacture in this

412 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

country have changed so as to require much less protection
now for the manufacturers than at the time of the Wilson
bill ; but in view of the possible wide suffering involved by
hasty action based on insufficient knowledge, the wise course,
in my judgment, is to postpone any change for a few months
needed to complete the pending inquiry.

When I have the accurate information which justifies such
action, I shall recommend to Congress as great a reduction in
Schedule K as the measure of protection, already stated, will
permit. The failure of the present bill should not be
regarded, therefore, as taking away the only chance for
reduction by this Congress.

More than a million of our countrymen are engaged in the
production of wool and the manufacture of woolens ; more
than a billion of the country's capital is invested in tlie
industry. Large communities are almost wholly dependent
upon the prosperity of the wool grower and the woolen
manufacturer. Moderately estimated, 5,000,000 of the Ameri-
can people will be injuriously affected by any ill-advised
impairment of the wool and woolen industries. Certainly
we should proceed prudently in dealing with them upon the
basis of ascertained facts rather than liastily and without
knowledge to make a reduction of the tariff to satisfy a
popular desire, which I fully recognize, for reduction of
duties believed to be excessive. I have no doubt that if I
were to sign this bill, I would receive the approval of very
many persons who favor a reduction of duties in order to
reduce the cost of living whatever the effect on our pro-
tected industries, and who fail to realize the disaster to busi-
ness generally and to the people at large which may come
from a radical disturbance of that part of business dependent
for its life on the continuance of a protective tariff. If I
fail to guard as far as I can the industries of the countrj^ to
the extent of giving them the benefit of a living measure of
protection, and business disaster ensues, I shall not be dis-
charging my duty. If I fail to recommend the reduction of
excessive duties to this extent, I shall fail in my duty to the
consuming public.

There is no public exigency requiring the revision of
Schedule K in August without adequate information, ra.ther
than in December next with such information. December
was the time fixed by both parties in the last Congress for
the submission of adequate information upon Schedule K
with a view to its amendment. Certainly the public weal is
better preserved by delaying ninety days in order to do jus-

WOOL AND WOOLENS IN CONGKESS. 413

tice, and make such a reduction as shall be proper, than now
blindly to enact a law which may seriously injure the indus-
tries involved and the business of the country in general.

Wm. H. ^aft.

The White House, August 17, 1911.

The reading of the message was received with applause on
the Republican side. Chairman Underwood, the Democratic
House leader, stated that he did not desire to have the
message referred to the Committee on Ways and Means, but
preferred to have it lie on the Speaker's table, and he gave
notice that on the following day he would move to pass the
bill over the veto of the President.

On August 18, after a spirited debate participated in by
ex-Speaker Cannon, ex-Chairman Payne, Representative
Dalzell of Pennsylvania, Representative Moore of Pennsyl-
vania, Representative Austin of Tennessee, Representative
Mondell of Wyoming and others on the Republican side,
and by Speaker Clark, Chairman Underwood, Representative
Fitzgerald of New York and others on the Democratic side,
the House, by a vote of 227 to 129 — not the requisite two-
thirds majority — refused to pass the bill over the veto. On
this vote eight "insurgent" Republicans, who had previously
stood with the Democrats for the bill, reversed their action
because of the convincing arguments of the President, and
acted with their fellow-Republicans. However, twenty-two
" insurgent " Republicans did vote with the Democrats on
this final division.

Thus the destructive wool and woolen legislation, framed
in haste, without proper information, by a coalition of Demo-
crats and " insurgents," was defeated in the first session of
the Sixty-second Congress by the manly course of the Presi-
dent of the United States.

WINTHROP L. MARVIN.

414 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

STATEMENT REGARDING COMPARATIVE COST

OF PRODUCTION OF WOOLEN GOODS

IN THE UNITED STATES AND

EUROPE.

(By Julius Forstmann, President^ Forstmann and Hufifmann Company,
Passaic, N.J.)

PART I.

It is a generally recognized fact that the opportunities for
earning a livelihood are better in the United States than in
any other country The highest wages are paid here for all
manual labor, as is demonstrated by the steady stream of
immigrants to America, which has been so great as to neces-
sitate the passing of the alien contract labor law, for the
special purpose of protecting American labor by keeping
wages at their high level. The scale of prices is conse-
quently higher than in European countries. While a
German reckons prices in marks, a Frenchman in francs, and
an Englishman in shillings, the American figures in dollars ;
and an American very often gives out a nickel as freely as
an Englishman does a halfpenny, a Frenchman a sou, or a
German a five pfennig piece, although the intrinsic value of
a nickel is from four to five times that of the European coins
mentioned.

This largeness of conception of pecuniary values is dis-
tinctively an American characteristic. Due in great measure
to the bountiful natural resources of the country, it has been
augmented by the fact that many of the country's industries
have never been affected by foreign conditions and have not
had to compete with cheaper foreign products.

Railroad companies, gas, electric light and water com-
panies, the building trades, newspapers, as well as the whole
retail trade, professional men in general, such as lawyers,
doctors, etc., etc., are all in the nature of things practically

COMPARATIVE COST OF PKODUCTION. 415

free from foreign competition, for none of the industries and
occupations mentioned are compelled — with respect to their
finished products, their wares, or their services — to meet
foreign competition. Besides, manufacturers of many prod-
ucts, as for instance bricks, tiles, iron girders and other build-
ing materials, rails, machinery of all kinds, rolling stock,
carriages, furniture, etc., etc., are very much less subject to
foreign competition, for the freight on their bulky and heavy
products is so large as to be a very important item in the
cost. All periodicals, moreover, are absolutely freed from
foreign competition by the postage rate of one cent a pound
granted to them. Books in the English language, too, in order
to obtain full copyright, must be set up and printed in this
country ; this is not merely protection, it is an outright pro-
hibition of foreign competition. Domestic shipping is also
absolutely protected, for foreign vessels are excluded entirely
from the coastwise carrying trade of the United States.

Woolen manufactures, on the other hand, do not occupy
the favored position of the classes mentioned. Considering
their value in proportion to weight, freight is but an exceed-
ingly small part of the cost of European woolen goods landed
in America. In this respect woolen manufactures are at a
great disadvantage compared with those above mentioned,
the freight on which forms a much larger percentage of their
value and thus constitutes a measure of protection, over and
above that afforded by the tariff, which practically does not
exist in the case of woolen manufactures.

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION.

In arriving at the comparative cost of production of woolen
goods for plants of equal capacity located here and abroad,
the ioWowing principal factor's must be taken into account:

1. Capitalization of mill.

2. Erecting and organizing mill:

Building material, labor and supplies.
Equipment — machinery, etc.
Organization of plant.

416 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

3. Operating and maintaining mill :

Management and supervision.

Wages.

Raw material, general supplies.

Interest.

Repairs and allowance for depreciation.

4. Outlet for goods :

Domestic market.
Foreign market.

A greater capital is necessary to start a woolen mill in this
country, owing to the greater items of cost, more fully
explained later. This greater capital is rendered necessary
not only by the greater cost of construction, equipment and
organization, but also by the increased outlays for salaries
and wages, raw materials and general supplies, for all of
which a great deal of preliminary expense must be incurred
before any returns begin to come in. This greater capital
also necessarily means correspondingly more interest, and, in
addition to this, the rates of interest are, as a rule, higher in
the United States than in Europe.

The initial cost of erecting and equipping a mill of given
capacity — for building materials, labor, machinery, etc. —
is greater here than abroad, necessitating, as already stated, a
greater capital. This additional cost (as I can state from my
own experience) amounts to fully 55 per cent. This means
that for every dollar invested in the building and equipping
of a European mill, $1.55 would be required in the establish-
ment of the same enterprise in America. In Table I. at end
hereof is given in detail the comparative cost of erecting and
equipping a mill in the United States and in Germany.

AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN MACHINERY.

To speak from my own experience, I wish to state that
before coming hei'e in 1903 I was an active member of the
German firm of Forstmann and Huffmann, Werden-on-the-
Ruhr, established in 1803 by the great-grandfathers of the
present members of the firm, which since that time has been

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 417

uninteiTuptedly owned and managed by members of their
families. When establishing our enterprise in Passaic, N.J.,
we were obliged, in order to be able to compete, not only
as to price but also with respect to quality and technical
perfection, with the best European mills, to import most of
our machinery, because a great deal of American spinning,
weaving, dyeing, and finishing machinerj' is not yet so highly
developed as the European. This is especially true of the
machinery used in what is known as the French system of
worsted spinning, which is being adopted more and more each
year. Also our entire woolen spinning machinery had to be
imported to enable us to compete with the best European
manufacturers.

A great part of our looms could be bought here, while
others had to be imported on account of special requirements ;
but those purchased in this country were nearly as expensive
as the imported ones, so that in buying them we had to bear
our share of the protection of the textile machinery of this
country. Dyeing and finishing machinery used in our mill
also had mostly to be imported. In general, American manu-
facturers can buy domestic woolen and worsted machinery
somewhat — but not very much — cheaper than imported
machinery ; but as the manufacture of woolen and worsted
machinery, like the woolen industry itself, is younger and
very much less fully developed in this country than in
Europe, such domestic machinery, especially that used for
the production of the finer goods, has not the same efficiency
as the European and consequently proves more costly in the
long run.

On all imported machinery the American Avoolen manu-
facturer has to pay a duty of 45 per cent, besides the pack-
ing, freight and forwarding charges, which in the case of
such heavy articles amount to between 10 per cent and 15
per cent of the value. All this, besides emphasizing one of
the important elements of additional cost to the American as
against the European manufacturer, also furnishes a striking
instance of how dependent the woolen manufacturing indus-

418 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

try is upon many other important manufactures in this
country.

While the woolen industry is a customer for the finished
products of numerous industries — iron, lumber, bricks,
machinery, oils, dyes, chemicals, paper, etc., etc. — it has
itself no such auxiliary outlet, its products going direct to
the various branches of its own particular trade. This lack
of other outlets explains why any disturbance of the retail
market, by threatened tariff changes, for instance, proves so
disastrous to domestic woolen manufacturing. It also empha-
sizes the injustice and unreasonableness of the suggestion to
revise the woolen schedule alone, without correspondingly
reducing the tariff on the products of all those allied indus-
tries which the woolen industry is compelled to draw upon
for material and supplies of various kinds.

ORGANIZING A PLANT.

After a woolen mill has been built and equipped with
machinery, there comes the task of getting it into smooth
running order and properly organizing the work of the plant,
so that it can be operated as a complete unit. In this respect
also the European industry has a great advantage over
the American. First there is in Europe a greater trained
force available, so that the work of commencing operations
can proceed more smoothly and more quickly ; secondly, the
first products of a new mill are usually not quite perfect,
even when the most experienced help and the very best
machines are used. In this way the American woolen indus-
try, with the disadvantages mentioned and the higher values
involved, is again — during the period of organization —
subject to greater expenses than the European.

The cost of management and supervision of work and work-
men is much greater. The salaries of all those in responsible
positions, from the heads of departments to the trained fore-
men, are very much higher here than in Europe, the difference
with respect to this class of employees being proportionately
greater even than the difference shown by the comparative
scale of wages in general. This is due to the fact that men

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 419

with mill training and experience are more numerous in
Europe and consequently do not command such high salaries.
From my own experience I know that the salaries paid here
for competent men are from three to four times as high as in
Germany and other parts of Europe.

HIGHER WAGES IN THE UNITED STATES.

The average wages paid for the various occupations in
American woolen and worsted mills, compared with those
paid by mills of the same capacity in Germany, are in the
ratio of 224.92: 100, as will be seen from Table II. at the end
of this statement. This table shows the average of wages
paid for help by six of the leading manufacturers of woolens
and worsteds in the Rhine district, the Lausitz and Saxony,
together with the average wages paid for the same help in
similar American mills.

The excess in the rate of wages paid in America is still
further accentuated by the fact that the operative in Euro-
pean woolen mills has, as a rule, a better training and more
experience, and consequently turns out a greater amount of
more accurate work in a given time than the American opera-
tive. Many European woolen enterprises have existed for
generations, and even those of more recent origin can draw
their help from mills which have had such a long existence.
The employers, and in very many cases their fathers and
grandfathers before them, have been born and brought up in
the business ; and as a rule the children and grandchildren
of the workpeople are also trained to the same trade.

And what is true of the firms, and the workers and their
families, is also true of the communities. The older seats of
the woolen industry, like Bradford and Huddersfield in Eng-
land, parts of the Rhine province, the Lausitz, Silesia and
Saxony in Germany, Roubaix, Tourcoing, Elboeuf and Sedan
in France, to mention a few of the best known, having gath-
ered about them for centuries a group of trained and efficient
workers, possess an inestimable advantage over the centers
of the woolen industry in America, the latter being, in com-
parison with those of Europe above named, themselves still

420 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUPACTUKERS.

in their childhood and their workers more or less migratory.
The woolen industry is one of the oldest and was established
in Europe, in its more primitive form, even before the dis-
covery of America, while the establishment of many other
industries on the two continents has been simultaneous and
the growth about equal.

GREATER EFFICIENCY IN EUROPEAN MILLS.

All the factors mentioned tend towards greater efficiency
in European woolen mills, increasing the output and dimin-
ishing the cost, and these factors are all the more important
as they do not appear on the surface and are commonly
neglected by those who have had no practical experience or
knowledge of the working of such mills. They also throw
an interesting sidelight on the tables of comparative wages
paid here and abroad, for they show that the importance of
the difference in the wage scales of the United States and
foreign countries is much greater than is apparent from the
mere figures.

The operatives in American woolen mills, in spite of the
very much higher wages paid, are largely drawn from the
ranks of unskilled labor. And whence does this unskilled
labor come ? There is little of it among native-born Ameri-
cans. It is taken from the steady flow of immigrants into
this country. A great part of this immigration will not
engage in agriculture, preferring the life of tlie city or town ;
and by absorbing and educating thousands and thousands of
these immigrants from year to year, the woolen mills are
rendering the greatest possible service to the country, giving
employment to a great number of people at wages which
enable them to live and bring up their families according to
American standards, all of whom, in turn, add enormously
to the purchasing power of the community and greatly
increase the number of consumers of the products of other
domestic industries. Another phase of this question which
must not be overlooked, especially by those who have at heart
the welfare of the American working class, is that any great
injury to the domestic woolen industry would necessarily

COMPARATIVE COST OP PRODUCTION. 421

mean the throwing out of employment of thousands of hands,
who would naturally seek occupation in other industries,
causing greater competition and thus inevitably lowering the
general scale of wages.

COMPARATIVE COST OF MATERIAL.

The raw material of the woolen manufacturer, wool, is
dearer by the amount of the specific duty per pound of
greasy wool imposed for the protection of the American
wool grower. In this the woolen manufacturers cheerfully
acquiesce, for they have sufficient economic foresight to
realize that the encouragement of American wool growing is
essential to the welfare and development of the industry in
ofeneral, assurincy the manufacturer of a reliable source of
supply, within the boundaries of his own country, of his sole
raw material, and at the same time adding materially to the
supply of meat products necessary for the nation's sustenance.
American woolen manufacturers demand no reduction in
the duty on raw material ; they only ask that they shall
continue to be sufficiently compensated for the increased
cost of raw material to protect them from the lower price at
which foreign manufacturers are able to obtain their wool.
The freight on foreign wool plays no very great part, but it
is at all events relatively much higher than the freight on
the imported woolen fabrics.

The question is often asked why American manufacturers
are so interested in maintaining tlie duties on raw wool. In
the first place a fair application of the principles of protec-
tion demands that the American wool grower be compen-
sated by the tariff for the numerous disadvantages under
which he labors in the growing of wool, as against the
farmers of Australia, for instance. In America higher
wages are paid in the wool growing industry, and besides
that many other important factors operate to make the cost
of producing wool here greater than in Australia — most
especially the fact that while Australian flocks can remain
outdoors the year round and succeed in finding for them-

422 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

selves sufficient food, American flocks have to be sheltered
and fed during a great part of our rigorous winter.

AMERICAN WOOLS SHOULD BE PROTECTED.

But besides all this — and from the manufacturer's point
of view more important — is the necessity of producing
within the United States as much as possible of the country's
requirements in wool. The course of the last sales in Aus-
tralia and London has shown that the amount of foreign
wool available is not more than sufficient to supply the
requirements of countries other than America, for in spite of
the almost total absence of American buyers from the sales
in question during the past year, prices were not only firmly
maintained in foreign markets, but for some grades even
went considerably higher. There is always a strong compe-
tition in international markets on the part of European
buyers, and the slightest increase of activity on the part of
American buyers immediately makes itself felt in an increase
of prices. If the demand from America were to be still
further increased, owing to a decline in American wool
growing, there would inevitably be a marked rise in the
price of foreign wool.

As statistics show, the world's production of wool is not
keeping pace with the rapid growth of population and the
even more rapidly increasing demand for wool in all coun-
tries. This discrepancy between supply and demand is all
the more noticeable, because in addition to an enormously
increased demand for the older products of wool, the staple
is being continually put to numerous new uses, owing to the
growing fondness for out-of-door life and sports. Especially
in the event of a repetition of the drought which occurred
in Australia in 1898 and 1899, prices would be driven to an
extravagant height. For this reason American manufac-
turers, like the manufacturers of all countries, are especially
concerned in fostering to the greatest possible extent — and
so far as possible within their own country — the production
of wool, so as to ensure for their machinery at all times a
sufficient supply of raw material at reasonable prices.

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 423

FREE WOOL WOULD BE UNWISE.

To sum up, at first glance the question of determining the
duty on wool seems an extremely simple one, susceptible of
easy solution. The reduction or abolition of duties on wool
would certainly have the immediate effect of lowering the
price of wool in the United States. But as American
farmers could then not compete with the imported wool,
owing to the higher wages paid by them and especially on
account of the natural disadvantages under which they work
as compared with the leading wool-growing countries, home
production would be very much endangered and diminished,
and the American demand for foreign wools would be
increased accordingly. As there is no inexhaustible^ but only
a ^meYec/, supply of wool in foreign markets — despite the
belief which is entertained in many extremely ill-informed
quarters — the price of wool in international markets would
undoubtedly be raised. And as every experienced business
man knows, an excess of demand over supply amounting to
only 5 per cent is already sufficient to raise prices from
20 to 30 per cent.

In the long run a recovery of price in America might
follow. But in the meantime the breeding of sheep and the
improvement of flocks — in which direction so much advance
has lately been made — would have received an enormous
setback, the wool growing industry would have been seriously
crippled and the farmers of the country would have suffered
incalculable losses. And all this for a temporary lessening of
wool prices in the United States, which would in the end
result to the advantage of the foreign farmers!

In addition to all these disadvantages the Government
would lose all or part of the very considerable revenue now
brought in by the duties on imported wools. If the duty on
raw wool should be reduced 50 per cent, as the newspapers
have reported to be the intention, then, in order to bring in
as much revenue as at present, enough wool woukl have to
be imported to destroy the market for and displace nearly
the entire American clip.

424 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

INCREASED PRODUCTION OF WOOL MOST DESIRABLE.

This question, with all its details and far-reaching conse-
quences, must evidently be considered in the light of all the
international industrial and commercial factors which bear
upon it. The rough-and-ready attempt to reduce prices by
the reduction or abolition of duties on raw wool resembles
rather a policy of paying dividends out of capital. The only
effectual way to make wool permanently cheaper is to increase
its production and to develop, to the fullest extent, all
possible fields of production. The contention that the reduc-
tion or abolition of duty on foreign wool will increase com-
petition in the American market is but a short-sighted view
of the situation. It leaves entirely out of consideration the
markets of the world, with the international demand and
supply.

The enlarging of the American demand for foreign wool
does not lessen the competition for the world's supply, but
increases it; the way to really decrease wool prices is to
increase American production. And American production
can, and with adequate and permanent protection^ removed
from the realm of partisan politics, will be increased to the
desired extent and the United States will be able to produce
all the wool necessary for her own requirements (and with
that considerably increase her meat supply) — with the excep-
tion of wool imported for special purposes, as for instance
that used in the manufacture of some of the finer fashionable
fabrics, dutiable as articles of luxury. To the extent that
this result is accomplished and the American demand for
foreign wool diminished, the price of wool abroad will
decline, and with such decline in the world's market the
price of wool in the United States will become cheaper, as
the wool markets in this country have to follow the world's
markets.

JVot by lessening American wool production and thereby
increasing American demand in the ivorld markets, but by
increasing American production and thereby decreasing Ameri-
can de7nand in the markets abroad will a general reduction of

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 425

wool prices he surely brought about. This is the only simple
and satisfactory solution of the question and cannot be too
strongly commended to the serious contemplation of all
those who, in the recent newspaper and magazine agitation
against Schedule K, so loudly proclaimed their anxiety to
obtain a sufficient quantity of good and cheap woolen clothing
for the American people.

OTHER FACTORS IN COST OF PRODUCTION.

An important element in operating expenses is the cost
of supplies — dyestuffs, chemicals, oil, etc., etc. — in respect
to which the woolen industry is very much dependent upon
dutiable imports. Under the head of supplies may also be
included the parts of machinery necessary to replace those
worn out. As already stated, very much textile machinery
is imported and additional parts must be bought and brought
over with the machinery itself, to avoid possible delay and
idleness in the mill, thereby increasing the original outlays
for equipment ; wdiile P^uropean mills can depend upon
promptly obtaining reserve parts from the makers of
machinery whenever they need them.

As for interest on borrowed moriey., that is nearly always
higher in the United States than in Europe, a fact suffi-
ciently attested by the amount of European finance credits
used in the United States, but which cannot be taken advan-
tage of by American textile enterprises in general.

The cost of keeping a plant in proper repair is higher
here, as the life of the buildings and equipment in an Ameri-
can plant is no greater than in a European mill, but is, if
anything, less, owing to climatic influences. A greater
amount must also be written off by American mills each year
for depreciation proportionate to the higher cost of construc-
tion and equipment. As this excess in cost is fully 55 per
cent, the allowance for depreciation in an American mill must
also be at least 55 per cent greater than in a European mill
of the same capacity.

426 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
OUTLET FOR GOODS.

One very important reason why the American woolen
manufacturer requires protection is the fact that he is pre-
vented from entering the open markets of the world in com-
petition with European manufacturers by his more expensive
plant, higher wages, and greater administrative and operat-
ing expenses, due to the higher basis of manufacture in
this country. He must depend entirely, for an outlet for his
goods, upon the Jiome market, while the whole world is open
to the European manufacturer, in addition to his usually
very well protected home market. In the event of business
depression in the latter, he can send his surplus wares to
another market, thus avoiding demoralization of prices at
home ; the American has no alternative but to reduce pro-
duction or close his mill entirely until business revives.

In consequence of the favorable chances of an outlet at
home as well as abroad, European manufacturers have each
more or less their special territory, and do not enter into
such close competition with each other as do American manu-
facturers. If a European manufacturer has any fabric of
which he makes a specialty, he is not so liable to have as
keen a competition on the part of other manufacturers as in
America, where manufacturers, with the exception of a few
producers of specialties, are forced to compete in a great
measure with the whole manufacturing force of the country
catering to the same market. I may say that I am very well
informed about the conditions in this and the principal
European markets, and I do not hesitate to assert most posi-
tively that, despite the fairy tales we hear of a woolen trust
fixing the prices for American woolens, there is not a single
country where competitioyi hetiveen wooleti and worsted manu-
facturers is so keen as it is in the United States.

FASHION AN IMPORTANT FACTOR.

In most other industries quality and price are the only
determining factors in the salability of goods, but in the
woolen industry fashion also plays a very important part —

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 427

more important even in many cases than quality and price, as
may constantly be seen from the announcements of all kinds
of dealers offering their "imported goods " and " latest Paris
and London styles " to their customers and the public.
Fashions for men's wear are largely set by England, and
those in ladies' wear are dictated by Paris, so that European
mills have in this respect, by reason of their geographical
position, a great advantage over American mills. As the
result of greater experience, due to longer establishment and
the greater adaptability of their workmen, European mills
can change their styles and qualities more quickly and more
satisfactorily to meet the constantly varying demands of
fashion than can most of the mills in America, where a great
part of the operatives are a less constant quantity, lacking
the thorough training and experience of their fellow-workmen
in Europe.

As changes in fashion are frequent and often far-reaching,
all this constitutes a serious handicap for the American
woolen manufacturer. Other industries are very much better
off, being either free from fashion entirely, or at least fixing
their own styles and not being bound by those abroad. In
many lines it is the foreign manufacturer who must come to
the United States and at great expense and with considerable
trouble acquaint himself with American styles and require-
ments, adapting his plant to their production. In these cases
the foreign manufacturer is at a disadvantage. In woolens
and worsteds, just the reverse is true. This is another impor-
tant factor in determining what is adequate protection, over
and above the bare difference in cost of production here and
abroad.

FOREIGN TARIFFS ACTUALLY HIGHER THAN OUR OWN.

The importance of fashion in the woolen industry was Avell
recognized and taken into account by the framers of the last
German tariff, who considered the duty on such fashionable
products a tax on luxuries and not on necessaries. Germany
has free wool, because she has not the necessary ground by
far to raise sufficient wool for her large woolen industry ; but

428 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

sheep-breeding stations are being established in the German
colonies in Southwest Africa, under Government auspices,
with the object of encouraging and aiding the farmers to
undertake and to develop as much as possible the industry
of wool growing on German territory.

And although Germany has free wool and has also a trifle
lower wages than England, she has a protective tariff on
woolen manufactures, designed to a large extent to protect
the German woolen industry against the importation of men's
wear fabrics from England and dress goods from France.
The German duties are all specific, but it may be said that
this duty is equivalent to a protection averaging one-third of
the cost of production (comprising labor, capital and all the
elements which I have heretofore mentioned as entering into
such cost).

The American tariff on woolen manufactures scarcely
makes up for the difference in cost of production in the
United States and Europe, and although nominally higher,
it is, taking into account the relative cost of production here
and abroad, considerably lower than the tariffs of all the large
European countries, such as Austria, France, Germany, Italy,
and Russia, a special feature of all of whose tariffs, with their
systems of graduated specific duties, is that the greater the
amount of work necessary in production, the greater is the
amount of protection. Under such a system, the heavier,
coarser fabrics, representing less work in respect to spinning,
weaving, dyeing, finishing, etc., pay less than the lighter and
finer fabrics, in the production of which more work is
involved.

In case of the adoption of this system in America, the
compensatory duties now existing would have to be main-
tained, while the ad valorem duties would be abolished and
in their place a specific duty, varying with the amount of
work represented in the cloth in question, would be levied to
protect the domestic manufacturer. As this system has not
only been introduced into all the larger European countries,
with the exception of England, but has been found to
operate successfully and to give general satisfaction, the criti-

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 429

cism cannot be made that it is impracticable. On the con-
trary it is a much juster method of levying duties and much
more equitable in its effects than the ad valorem system now
in operation in the United States.

SCHEDULE K NOT PROHIBITIVE.

In the fiscal year ending June 30, 1909, woolen manufac-
tures amounting to eighteen million dollars (foreign value)
were imported, and for the corresponding period of 1910,
twenty-three and one-half million dollars (foreign value).
The landed value in America of these importations was very
considerably higher. If foreign manufacturers can produce
these goods, pay the present tariff on them and still make a
profit, it is evident that the tariff is not too high, and that
any lowering of it would unnecessarily open ouv market to
more foreign goods, greatly facilitating their importation and
correspondingly harming our home industry.

The margin by which the present duties of Schedule K
enable American manufacturers to compete with those in
Europe is so narrow that, were it not for the advantage of
proximity to the market, the tariff on woolen goods would
be inadequate to protect most American woolen manufac-
tures against those of Europe ; and even the American
manufacturer's advantage of proximity to the market is
being more and more reduced by the improved and cheaper
means of transportation and communication — faster steam-
ships and improved and cheaper postal and cable services —
which are constantly bringing America and Europe closer
and closer together. I merely mention these facts to show
that American woolen manufacturers are not extravagantly
protected by Schedule K.

CORRECT BASIS FOR EVENTUAL TARIFF REVISION.

Any tariff legislation regarding woolen manufactures
should make up for all the differences in the cost of produc-
tion, viz. :

1. Greater capitalization and consequent higher
interest charges ; or conversely, lower dividends

430 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Oil the same amount of capital invested in
America than in Europe.

2. Greater cost of erecting, equipping and organiz-

ing mill, necessitating correspondingly larger
allowance for depreciation.

3. Greater cost of operating and maintaining mill,

including higher salaries and wages paid in
United States.

4. Greater cost of protected raw material.

5. Lack of foreign market for American manufac-

tures, and

6. Must also take into consideration the various other

disadvantages, outlined above — fashion, better
trained labor, etc. — under which American
manufacturers of woolen and worsted fabrics
labor as compared with European manufac-
turers.

Starting with raw wool as a basis, the schedule on wool
and woolen manufactures should be so fixed that due allow-
ance is made for all the elements of greater cost which enter
into production in the United States as compared with pro-
duction abroad. The wool grower must be protected to
make up for the greater cost to him of raising sheep and
caring for them ; the manufacturer must be compensated for
the increased cost to him of the raw material and must also
be protected, with respect to wages, cost of plant and operat-
ing expenses, in all the processes of manufacture — sorting,
washing, carding and combing the wool, spinning the yarn,
weaving, dyeing and finishing the cloth, and so on. Due
allowance should also be made for the more intricate pro-
cesses and more experienced and careful work involved in
the production of the finer fabrics.

WHAT IS ADEQUATE PROTECTION?

In deciding what is adequate protection, it must be borne in
mind that it is absolutely impossible to fix, for the purpose of
determining the amount of duty to be levied, the exact point
of equilibrium between the cost of production here and

COMPARATIVE COST OF PEODUCTION. 43 L

abroad, and that besides this a vast number of additional cir-
cumstances, already touched upon, must be taken into account.
As the cost of production varies greatly in European mills,
even in those situated in the vicinity of each other, a tariff
based on prices and conditions prevailing in one place would
not be enough to protect the American woolen industry
against the products of another place, where the scale of
values is altogether different. All the more is this true of
mills in different countries of Europe.

American labor and capital must be sufficiently protected,
and as I have tried to explain, the present tariff is no more
than sufficient and its underlying principles should be
maintained. And once the danger of excessive foreign com-
petition and the possibility of any mistaken change which
would impair the effectiveness of the present tariff is removed,
the natural business rivalry of home manufacturers will surely
develop more and more freely and ensure the continuance of
adequate and normal prices. While trusts exist in other
industries, there is not now and never has been a monopoly
in the woolen industry. Nor can the reproach be brought
against the woolen industry, as it has been brought against
others, that its products are sold cheaper in foreign markets
than at home, because the American woolen industry has no
foreign trade. The individual industries should he considered
separately on their merits.

A NATIONAL AMERICAN SYSTEM OF PROTECTION.

I am sure everybody may be justified in assuming that the
members of the leading political parties have equally at
heart the general welfare of the country. The weakness of
American politics, however, is the fact that the Republican
party, as a party., is for a protective tariff, while the Demo-
cratic party, as such, favors a tariff for revenue only. But
the manufacturers of America do not weave one fabric for
the Republican and another for the Democrat ; they weave a
national American cloth for all, and demand for that a
national Ainerican system of protection.

Those who think to serve the country best by a reduction

432 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL IVIANUFACTURERS.

of the duty forget that they would thereby hurt the home
production and make the American consumer more depen-
dent on foreign countries. The advocates of this policy also
forget that in this way the national wealth would be decreased
by many millions of dollars annually, aside from the loss of
employment to thousands of workpeople, who in their turn
are consumers for many other industries. They also do not
reflect that, after the immediate force of the reduction of
duties had been exhausted in the harming and restricting
of the American woolen industry, the inevitable consequence
would be to increase the prices for wool and woolen fabrics
in international markets, on account of the greater demand
for such articles from America due to diminished home pro-
duction.

The policy of the other party is to protect the production
of American wool and woolen manufactures — which are
inseparably connected — in order that these industries may
be more and. more strengthened and thereby become more
productive from year to year, ensuring for coming generations
an adequate supply of wool and woolen clothing and mutton,
while adding at the same time greatly to the national wealth,
instead of paying the large amounts involved to foreign
countries and being dependent upon the latter for our food
and clothing.

ATTACKS ON SCHEDULE K NOT JUSTIFIED BY THE FACTS.

The above facts and absolutely reliable figures (given in
Tables I. and II. at end hereof) regarding the cost of produc-
tion here and in Europe, which are based on the actual
present wage lists of six of the leading German firms and
on those of similar American firms engaged in woolen and
worsted manufacturing, and on present estimates of leading
contractors in both countries, are submitted for the purpose
of demonstrating with what obstacles the woolen industry
has to contend and how absolutely unfounded are the
attacks on Schedule K. It is to be hoped that they may
help to present in a clear light the question of the compara-
tive cost of woolen manufacturing here and abroad — a

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 433

question regarding which many men have allowed themselves
to be misled by the conception of the matter hitherto pre-
sented in a certain portion of the public press. The extent
to which certain magazine writers have gone in stirring up
discontent among the general public regarding the woolen
industry is almost beyond comprehension. Not wishing to
doubt their sincerity, I can only assume that in thus mislead-
ing and poisoning the minds of a great part of the general
public, they have been absolutely ignorant of the subject and
have failed to realize the magnitude of the injury done by
them to the business of the country.

PART II.
TARIFF FOR REVENUE AND PROTECTIVE TARIFF.

In a statement published in the " New York Evening Post"
of March 27, 1911, Mr. Underwood, Chairman of the Ways
and Means Committee, said, among other things :

In 1860 the importation of woolen manufactures, exclu-
sive of duplications, amounted to 58 per cent ; in 1890 to
20.9 per cent, and in 1905 it had fallen to the small figure
of 4.4 per cent. During the hearings (on the Payne Bill)
several gentlemen appeared before us, who testified that they
had been engaged in the manufacture of woolen goods for
30 or 40 years. I asked these witnesses if they could recall
the time when they first engaged in the manufacture of
woolen goods and they said they could. I asked them if the
industry prospered at that time, and they said it did ; and I
asked if it was seemingly as prosperous then as now, and they
said it was ; and yet at that time there was all the way from
20 to 30 per cent of importations, and, under the Dingley Bill,
it had been reduced to 4.4 per cent.

In the first place I can state, from my personal knowledge,
that conditions in the woolen industry in 1890, either in
Europe or in America, cannot be satisfactorily compared
with those of to-day, owing to enormous changes in popula-
tion and consumption on the one hand and in production and
business competition on the other. Since the time mentioned
production and consequently competition have been enor-

434 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

mously increased (see Table III. at end, giving production
of woolens and worsteds according to Census Reports of
1890, 1900, 1905, and 1910). In consequence prices and
profits have been very much lowered. As I can further
state from exact personal knowledge^ the profits on woolen
goods sold in the American market by European manufac-
turers about 1890 before the passing of the McKinley Bill
were so high that many of the latter neglected their home
market and devoted themselves almost exclusively to the
American trade. If things have changed since then, it must
be ascribed to the workings of a sound and reasonable pro-
tective tariff. The figures given by Mr. Underwood as to
the reduction of imports under the wool schedules of recent
years give the best proof of the correctness of the protective
duties, which have so favorably developed and extended the
woolen industry in the United States. Any advocate of
protection would be willing to rest his case on them.
Mr. Underwood further says :

If the woolen manufacturing business could prosper
when 20 per cent of importations were coming into this
country, and they testified that it did, why cannot they
prosper to-day with a fairly competitive tariff, instead of a
practically prohibitive one?

This means, of course, that American manufacturers could,
in his opinion, lower their prices to compete with imports
under a reduced tariff and yet make a reasonable profit.
And on this assumption, Mr. Underwood bases his proposal
for a reduction of the duties on woolen manufactures. If
American manufactures prospered in 1890, when importa-
tions equaled 20 per cent of the home production, the
natural conclusion is that American production of woolen
and worsted goods at that time fell short, by 20 per cent, of
supplying the home market. To-day the home production
supplies 95 per cent of the country's requirements, leaving
only 5 per cent on the basis of the low foreign value to be
imported. Any increase of imports, therefore, could only
take place at the cost of curtailing American manufacture.

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 435

REVENUE AT THE COST OF AMERICAN PRODUCTION.

Continuing, Mr. Underwood says :

The Government is in need of revenue, and the woolen
manufacturers and their representatives here are not willing
to contribute their fair portion of this taxation to the Treas-
ury that they exact from the people by a prohibitive tariff.

Mr. Underwood wants to obtain more revenue from the
imports of woolen manufactures, and accordingly wishes to
reduce the duties with the object of increasing the imports of
woolen goods. As there is not the least likelihood of the
demand for these goods increasing sufficiently to make up for
an eventual increase of imports, the carrying out of Mr.
Underwood's plans could only be accomplished at the expense
of American woolen manufacturers, who, in the event of
greater imports, would have correspondingly to curtail their
production.

If imports increased 10 per cent, the market for the output
of American mills would have to be diminished that much,
unless the latter, which, according to Mr. Underwood's own
figures, now supply 95 per cent of the country's requirements,
in order to keep their plants and their workpeople fully
employed, could lower the prices of their goods to meet the
foreign competition. And in the latter event there would be
no increase of imports, while the revenue, at the lower rates
of duty, would be less. Every experienced business man,
moreover, knows what is the effect of such competition for a
disputed market. It is not stimulating, but demoralizing
in its results, and the offering of a surplus production of, say,
10 per cent would have far more serious effects on the home
market than the mere figures indicate.

To follow out Mr. Underwood's idea, duties would again
have to be lowered in an attempt to accomplish the desired
end (the raising of revenues from duties on woolen manu-
factures). As long as American manufacturers were willing
and financially able to stay in the field and maintain their
mills at their present capacity, no appreciable increase could
take place in European imports, while the duties being con-

436 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

tinually decreased, the revenue therefrom would become
steadily smaller.

We need not follow Mr. Underwood's plan to its logical
conclusion, which would eventually mean the destruction of
American woolen manufacturing, by continued reduction of
duties, ruining at first those elements of the industry which
are economically the weakest and therefore most dependent
upon and most deserving of national tariff protection.

THE AMERICAN MARKET INTENSELY COMPETITIVE.

Assuming that I have shown that the realization of Mr.
Underwood's plan would not accomplish, at one and the
same time — except by the eventual paralyzing of the home
industry — what are admittedly his chief aims, namely, the
reduction of prices of American woolen goods and the
increase of revenue from duties on woolen manufactures, I
wish to point out the fallacy of his other contention — the
need of greater foreign competition in the American market
for the regulation of prices of woolen and worsted fabrics.

Without going into complicated figures, but simply accept-
ing Mr. Underwood's statement as to the comparatively small
amount of importations of woolen manufactures under the
present tariff, I should like to ask if Mr. Underwood realizes
what these figures plainly prove to the advantage of the
American manufacturer? The European manufacturer does
not alone consider the duty he has to pay on his goods when
they arrive in this country ; he also considers the price at
which he can sell them, in order to see whether he can pay
the duty and still make a profit. And the fact that goods
are imported to the extent mentioned shows that the present
tariff gauges pretty closely the difference in cost of produc-
tion here and abroad, with enough margin in favor of the
European manufacturer to enable him to sell a certain
amount of his products in this market.

As long as this is the case, the tariff is not " prohibitive " and
does not "enable them (the woolen manufacturers) to increase
their profits and avoid competition." For it is evident that
any raising of the prices on the part of American manufac-

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 437

turers would at once make possible an increase in the volume
of imports. This proves the correctness of what has been the
main contention of advocates of protection for years, namely,
that the proper conservation of the home market for domestic
industries does not tend to raise, but rather to lower prices.
The American woolen industry is to-day so well developed
and comprises so many independent enterprises in all parts of
the country that, as I have previously mentioned in this
statement, the greatest competition exists and this is entirely
sufficient to prevent any possibility of a combination to raise
prices. A greater foreign competition for the purpose of
regulating prices of woolens in America is therefore abso-
lutely unnecessary. And as for the profits of American
woolen and worsted mills, I may state that the profits in
general are not higher, but rather lower than those of similar
European enterprises. Also in this 7'espect I claim to be very
ivell informed from exact personal knowledge.

SCHEDULE K GREAT REVENUE PRODUCER.

The following statement is also made by Mr. Underwood :

The real justification for a tariff can be only for the pur-
pose of raising revenue to support the Government.

Admitting this, for the sake of argument — although
every man who believes in the further development of
American industry must be utterly opposed to this con-
ception of the primary purposes of a tariff — why should
the tcoolen i7idustr7/ be expected to furnish still more revenue
than it has done and is doing under the present tariff, where
it occupies a preeminent place in respect to the amount of
duties collected? For the fiscal year ended June 30, 1910,
the customs receipts of the country aggregated three hun-
dred and thirty-three million dollars — the largest in the
history of the United States. Of this large amount. Sched-
ule K, taken as a whole, furnished directly one-eighth, being
surpassed only by sugar.

Besides, it must not be forgotten that the woolen manu-
facturing industry, in addition to the large amounts of wool

438 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

imported by it, which, as above shown, add materially to the
customs receipts, annually brings in indirectly many millions
of dollars of revenue in the way of duties on its importa-
tions of machinery, chemicals, dye-stuffs and numerous other
supplies. All these items are credited to other industries,
the receipts from which would be correspondingly diminished
in the event of any injury to the domestic woolen industry;
while on the other hand no similar items of supplies, etc.,
intended for other industries are included in the receipts
under Schedule K. Textile machinery is not specially clas-
sified, so that it is impossible to say just how much was
received from this source and credited to the iron and steel
group. Neither do the tables of customs receipts indicate
how much of the imports under the head of chemicals, dye-
stuffs, oils, etc., are intended for use in the woolen industry.
Directly and indirectly, then, the woolen industry, which
depends for its existence on adequate tariff protection, has
done and is doing at least as much toward the upbuilding
of the country as any other, especially those not dependent on
the tariff ; and the more the industry is properly protected,
the greater will be its development and the cheaper and
better will its products become, thus benefiting the whole
American nation. None of these facts are taken into account
by the critics of Schedule K, and in view of the direct and
indirect revenue derived from imports of wool and woolen
manufactures and from the imports of other articles used in
the manufacture of woolen goods, Mr. Underwood, in his
attempt to still further increase the revenue from Schedule K
by a reduction of duties, runs a great risk of "killing the
goose which lays the golden eggs."

A REAL TAX ON LUXURIES.

In another respect also the woolen schedule may be relied
upon to furnish revenue, viz., by the duties on fashionable
articles of import. Certain goods, representing the latest
European fashions, will always be imported, regardless of the
duty, by and for the great number of wealthy people in the
United States desirous of having something out of the ordi-

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION. 439

nary, with whom the cost does not enter into consideration
and who cling to the traditional notion that imported goods
are better, more stylish, and less commonly worn than
domestic products.

This is all the more true in respect to woolen manufac-
tures, because, in the finer articles of clothing, the cloth used
only constitutes a small part of the cost. P"'or instance, a
gentleman's suit made of imported material selling for from
$60 to $70 requires 3^ yards of cloth, which, at the average
price per yard of $3 to $4, would amount in all to only $10
to $15. This also applies, in corresponding degree, to fash-
ionable articles of ladies' wear made of woolen and worsted
goods. In order to obtain as much as possible from this inex-
haustible source of revenue, the duties on such fashionable
articles must be fixed at such a level as to make them in fact —
as they are generally considered in European countries and as
they ought to be considered here — a tax on luxuries.

Those who are dissatisfied with and attack Schedule K seem
to have but an inadequate conception of the task of properly
and soundly clothing the ninety odd millions of people in the
United States, and while I credit the advocates of this policy
with the very best intentions, I cannot help stating, as my
very earnest conviction, that they utterly fail to grasp the
full importance of the subject.

Rather than re-arrange our customs duties solely for the
purpose of raising revenue, regardless of the injury resulting
to the important wool growing and wool manufacturing
industries, it would be better, if no other means were avail-
able, to adopt more equitable and more certain measures for
obtaining additional revenue.

VALUE OF TARIFF BOARD — GERMAN METHODS.

President Taft is undoubtedly correct in demanding mature
consideration of the whole matter, and in asking that Con-
gress await the report of a tariff board or commission, so that
many of the unsound theories propounded by various people
with the best of intentions, but lacking just as much the

440 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

necessary comprehension and knowledge of the subject, may
be properly corrected.

In framing legislation of this kind it is impossible to have
too much information. Not only should the report of the
tariff board or commission be awaited, but that report should
be examined most closely and a hearing given to those
differing with its conclusions. The Tariff Commission of
Germany, formed in 1899, consumed several years in the pre-
liminary work of gathering and arranging information and
statistics upon which to base proposals for the present
German tariff enacted in 1902. In this country the same
task might be accomplished in a shorter time. The German
Commission at first comprised a General Committee (Wirt-
schaftlicher Ausschuss) of twenty-four members, which has
since been increased to forty-eight. For the purpose of
assisting and strengthening the General Committee, the Cora-
mission was enlarged by the appointment of a great number
of experts representing all the principal industries and occu-
pations — iron, textile, and all other industries, commerce,
agriculture, etc. — who took part in the proceedings relating
to their respective interests. (I may add that I served as one
of the experts for the woolen industry.)

Officials of the Government, representing the Department
of the Interior and the Treasury Department, were present at
all sessions of the Commission and drew up, using mainly
the data obtained by them in cooperation with the Commis-
sion, the form of the bill to be submitted to the Reichstag
for final action. None of the members of the German Tariff
Commission, who were selected for their high standing in
their respective lines, received any compensation whatever
for their services, the Government employees keeping records
of all meetings. If the German system were to be applied to
America, for instance. President Taft's Tariff Board could
represent the Government, and a Commission along the
German lines outlined above, representative of all the coun-
try's interests, agricultural, industrial, and commercial, could
be appointed to cooperate with the Tariff Board in compiling

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODCTCTION. 441

data for a sound and at the same time business-like tariff bill
for the final consideration of Congress.

So thorough and systematic were the methods of the
German Commission that it achieved a world-wide reputa-
tion. The most detailed statements were required from all
agricultural, industrial, and mercantile enterprises of any
importance regarding production, capitalization, number of
laborers, sources of supply for raw material, domestic and
foreign sales, suggestions regarding the home and export
trade, etc. With these data in hand it was possible for the
Government and the members of the Commission to obtain a
thorough insight into the working of each industry, as well
as the interrelation of the various industries. Without a simi-
larly thorough knowledge of the subject no body of legisla-
tors should attempt to pass laws affecting the country's
wealth, its agriculture, commerce and industry, and the
opportunities of all its people for earning their livelihood
under equal conditions.

JUSTICE OF ALLOWING DUE TIME BETWEEN ENACTMENT
AND OPERATION OF EVENTUAL NEW TARIFF.

Whenever, in a European country, changes are made in the
tariff, the changes do not take effect until those affected have
had an opportunity to adjust themselves to the new condi-
tions. The last German Tariff was completed in the summer
of 1902, but its provisions did not take effect until March 1,
1903. The same is true of the French tariff which took
effect last year. In the United States, too, when the tariff is
revised, due time should be allowed the business interests
affected to adapt themselves to the changes. There are
many industries, among them the woolen industry, which
must make the purchases required in manufacture and also
accept orders for their products many months in advance.
The woolen trade is divided into two seasons — spring and
fall — and in order to take care of the rush of business in
the height of the seasons, extensive arrangements must be
made a very long time ahead by the retailer, the clothing

442 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

manufacturer, the jobber and the manufacturer of woolen
and worsted fabrics. From the time the last mentioned buys
his wool in the primary market to the time when the finished
cloth is offered for sale by the retail dry goods store, or is
made up into wearing apparel by the dressmaker or the
merchant tailor, many months must necessarily elapse. In
the case of ready-made clothing, suits, cloaks, etc., where the
cloth has to go through the hands of the wholesale clothing
manufacturer and then be delivered to the retailer, the lapse
of time from the purchase of the raw wool to the sale to the
consumer of the finished product is even greater. Therefore
in all fairness ample time should be given to all concerned,
in the case of eventual tariff changes, to arrange their busi-
ness accordingly.

It is to be hoped that by a thorough and scientific investi-
gation by a non-partisan board or commission the whole situ-
ation may be made clear and that the misleading speeches
and writings against Schedule K may cease, so that the
woolen industry, which is as much entitled to existence as
any other, may be permitted to further develop under just
and equitable conditions and contribute as heretofore its
important part to the general welfare of the country.

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION.

443

Table I.

A. — Buildings.

Comparative unit costs of labor and materials required in the construction

of a mill building suitable for wooleii or worsted manufacturing.

In Germany.

In U.S.A.

Excess Cost
in U.S.A.,
Per Cent.

Excayation, per cubic yard

Concrete, " " "

Brickwork, " " ''

Roofing, per square foot

.184
3.85
4.41

.12

.30

.05

.0241

.281
5.40
9.45

.19

.40

.08

.0337

115

Skylights, per square foot

Cement floor, per square foot

Cast and wrought iron, per lb

Doors, windows, painting, etc

33
60
40
30

I-beams, per ton of 2,200 lbs

500 H. P. cross compound Rice and
Sargent Engine, including con-
denser erected on foundation ....

Fire tube boilers, per 100 lbs

Shafting

32.14

8,500.00
3.60

44.00

12,700.00
4.90

49
36

Piping and covering

Electric lighting and motors

Chimney

2,250.00

5,300.00

130

Average percentage of excess
cost in U.S.A. for above
units of construction

53^

Laborers, per hour

.071

.143

.12

.131

.20
.60
.45
.45
.525

185

Bricklayers, per hour

322

Carpenters, per hour

280

Sheet metal workers, per hour ....
Iron workers, per hour

243
300

April 11, 1911.

The above are exact figures obtained at date hereof from
very prominent American and German mill contractors and
constructors.

B. — Machinery .

Imported macliinery pays 45 per cent duty, and the packing, forwarding
and freight charges amount to from 10 per cent to 15 per cent additional.

As outlined in the foregoing statement, domestic machinery used in woolen
and worsted manufacturing is not quite so expensive as European machinery,
but in many cases the domestic machinery has not been so fully perfected as
the European machinery and is therefore less effective and this fact tends to
neutralize the difference in cost.

444 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTCTRERS.

From the above figures, compiled under A and B, it can be
seen that the cost of a mill in the United States is 55 per cent
higher than that of a mill of equal capacity in Germany ; and
the German figures may well be taken as the average for
European countries in general.

Table II.
Comparative Wages paid in Woolen and Worsted Mills in the Eastern part
of the United States and in Germany.

(Figures for Germany represent in each case the average wage paid by leading firms in
six of the principal woolen centers. The actual wages differ in each locality, but the
amounts given below represent the average weekly wage.)

Worsted spinning (French sys
tern): *

Head wool sorter

Wool sorter

Wash house overseer

Card room overseer

Combing room overseer

Drawing room overseer

Mule spinning overseer

Ring spinning overseer

Twisting and reeling overseer. .

Wool washers

Card strippers

Card feeders

Combs

Backwashers

Gill boxes

Drawing gills

Drawing frames

Roving frames

Mule spinners

Mule spinners' helpers

Ring spinners

Twisters

Winders and reelers

Cylinder room overseers

Cylinder room overseers' helpers,

Needle setter overseers

Needle setter overseers' helpers

Engineer

Engineer helpers

Firemen overseer

Average Wage Per Week of
56 Working Hours.

Ratio of U.S.
Wages to

Eastern U.S.

Germany.

Per Cent.

$26.00

$9.60

271

15.50**

3.75

413

22.00

6.10

361

22.00

6.35

341

23.75

8.30

286

23.50

9.45

249

21.00

9.05

232

22.00

8.95

246

21.00

8.50

247

8.20

4.90

167

8.20

5.10

161

7.60

4.35

175

7.25

2.90

250

5.90

2.80

211

5.40

2.90

186

5.70

3.00

190

6.35

2.85

223

5.95

3.20

186

13.00

6.40

203

6.60

3.55

186

5.85

3.25

180

6.20

3.25

191

6.10

3.05

200

11.20

5.90

190

6.20

3.40

182

11.20

4.35

257

7.85

3.35

234

20,00

10.40

192

11.20

6.40

175

12.60

7.30

173

* The Bradford system of worsted spinning is not used in Germany at all.
**The wool sorting in the United States is done principally by men and in Germany by
women.

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION.

445

Table II, — Continued.

Firemen overseer helpers

Yard laborers overseer

Laborers, all around

Woolen spinning:

Boss spinner

Foreman

Spinner

Spinner's helper

Card cleaner

Carder

Laborers for various kinds of

work

Weaving:

Boss weaver

Loom fixer '. . .

Warping room foreman

Sizing room foreman

Drawing in foreman

Examining room foreman

Weaver

Warper

Spooler

Sizer

Sizer's helper

Drawer in

Hander in

Warp twister

Examiner

Laborers

Dyeing :

Head dyer

Dye house foreman

Dye tub man

Rinsing machine man

Finishing :

Burling: Head overseer. .. .
Assistant overseer,
Operatives

Scouring : Head overseer ....
Assistant overseer,
Operatives

Carbonizing : Overseer

Operatives

Fulling : Overseer

Operatives

Teazling : Head overseer. . . .
Assistant overseer,
Operatives

Steaming : Overseer

Operatives

Average Wage Per Week of

66 Working Hours.

Ratio of U.S.

Wages to

German in
Per Cent.

Eastern U.S.

Germany.

$11.50

$6.60

174

16.00

7.75

206

8.80

4.70

187

32.00

11.50

279

18.00

5.50

327

14.00

5.60

250

6.00

2.75

218

8.50

4.20

202

8.50

3.70

230

8.00

3.60

222

25.00

10.15

246

17.30

6.70

258

18.30

7.00

261

17.00

6.30

270

15.30

6.30

243

16.30

6.50

251

9.20

4.65

198

8.30

5.05

164

4.55

2.30

198

8.00

4.60

174

7.45

3.60

207

9.40

5.00

188

4.95

3.00

165

8.55

6.25

137

9.50

6.00

158

7.55

4.00

189

52.00

19.25

270

15.00

7.20

208

9.60

4.30

223

8.40

4.05

207

23.00

8.30

277

17.00

6.50

262

6.50

3.00

217

18.00

9.20

196

12.00

6.40

188

8.00

4.10

195

13.00

7.40

176

8.00

3.90

205

23.00

8.75

263

8.35

4.05

206

22.00

9.45

233

18.00

6.35

283

8.25

4.80

172

13.00

4.85

268

9.90

4.45

222

446 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTCJREKS.

Table II. — Concluded.

Average Wage Per Week of
.56 Workine Hours.

Ratio of U.S.

\\ ages to

German in
Per Cent.

Eastern U.S.

Germany.

Drying :

Head overseer. . . .

$18.00

$6.65

271

Assistant overseer,

13.00

4.45

292

Operatives

7.50

4.05

185

Shearing:

Head overseer. . . .

23.00

8.50

271

Assistant overseer,

20.00

6.75

296

Operatives

7.60

4.05

188

Pressing and

glossing :

Head overseer. . . .

21.00

7.20

292

Assistant overseer,

13.00

6.70

194

Operatives

9.70

4.70

206

Examining :

Head examiner . .

15.00

6.85

219

Examiners

12.00

5.20

231

Putting up :

Overseer

16.00

5.50 ■

291

Operatives

9.50

4.20

226

The above figures are based on the following conditions :
Throughout Germany experienced, skilled labor is generally
available for all positions in woolen and worsted mills. In
America skilled labor must of course be used for the more
important positions, while in veiy many American woolen
centers the ordinary operatives are mostly drawn from what
is absolutely unskilled labor and are on the whole inexperi-
enced and consequently much less efficient than in Germany.
For this reason more people are necessary to do the same
amount of work, consequently requiring more foremen to
oversee the work of a given number of operatives. The
wages given for the United States in the above tables are
furnished by mills having mostly unskilled labor, and while
they show that the average wages paid in American woolen
and worsted mills for the various occupations, compared with
those paid by mills of the same capacity in Germany, are in
the ratio of 224.92 : 100, it will also be seen therefrom that
the excess paid in the United States to overseers, assistant
overseers, and those doing more important work necessitating
special skill and judgment is considerably above this average.
If there were employed in the American mills by which the

COMPARATIVE COST OF PRODUCTION.

447

above figures have been furnished ordinary operatives equally
as skilled as those employed in the German mills on whose
wage lists the above absolutely correct figures are based, then
the difference between the wages quoted for ordinary opera-
tives in the United States and in Germany would be much
greater and the ratio above given would be considerably
higher.

Table III.
Development of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturing in the United States,

1889-1909.
(Compiled from reports of United States Census Bureau.)

S >.

Total

5 a

Salaries

„^

5w •

5"" S

and Wages
Paid.

C 3 03

o o «

■<

1889

122,944

$44,3.59,114

$361

1899

129,516

50,120,000

387

1904

146,322

61,4:53,000

419

1909 * . . .

168,239

79,214,000

478

Value of
Products.

$212,772,629

238,745,000
307,942,000
419,826,000

Remarks.

Tariff Law of 1883; McKinley
Bill 1890; Wilson Bill 1894;
Dingley Bill 1897.

DiiiKley Bill 18117.

Dingley Bill 1897.

Payne-Aldrich Bill 1909.

Increase in value of products 1904-1909 was greater than in any ten years prior to 1900.
♦Preliminary figures issued by Census Bureau.

448 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

COLONEL ALBERT CLARKE. {With portrait.)

The wool manufacture of New England and America, and
indeed all the great national industries of our country, have lost
a most powerful friend in the death on July 16 of Colonel
Albert Clarke, the distinguished Secretary of the Home Market
Club of Boston. For a year or more Colonel Clarke had been
bending under the burden of weariness, but the end was sudden,
and it has brought deep grief to a host of friends who admired
him for his intellectual courage and strength and loved him for
his frank and manly qualities.

Colonel Clarke was a native of Vermont, of old colonial lineage,
descended from soldiers of the Revolution. He was born on a
farm at Granville, and graduated from Barre Academy in 1859.
Studying law, he was admitted to the bar, and practised at Mont-
pelier from 1859 to 1862, when he joined Company I of the
Thirteenth Vermont Infantry, soon becoming First Sergeant and
First Lieutenant. His regiment saw arduous service in Virginia
and with the First Corps fought at Gettysburg. Here Lieutenant
Clarke and his comrades shared in that famous charge of Stan-
nard's Vermont Brigade on the flank of Pickett's advancing
column, the very crisis of the combat. In the three days' battle
the Thirteenth Vermont re-took a battery which had been lost to
the Confederates and secured several hundred prisoners. Lieu-
tenant Clarke's captain was killed at Gettysburg, and he himself
was wounded but would not go to the hospital until the long fight
had ended.

He had been promoted to another regiment, but injury and
exhaustion prevented him from joining the new command. He
returned to Vermont and continued his law practice, becoming a
Colonel on the staff of Governor Dillingliam and First Assistant
Clerk of the Vermont House of Representatives. In 1868 he
began as editor of the St. Albans " Messenger " a career in
journalism in which he was to win distinction. He manifested
in his new profession the courage of the battlefield. He waged
a war against the dominating power of railroad corporations in

OBITUARY. 449

politics, and in 1874 was elected to the Vermont Senate, from
Franklin County, on this issue.

In 1880 Colonel Clarke relinquished his business at St. Albans,
and soon after engaged in publishing in Boston. From 1883 to
1885 he was one of the editors of the Boston "Advertiser." He
was also assistant to the President of the Boston and Lowell
Railroad, and he served for a time as the President of the
Vermont and Canada Railroad. Then he became the editor of the
Rutland " Herald," one of the principal papers of Vermont, and
in 1889 he was elected to the post to which he was to give the
best years of his life, the Secretaryship of the Home Market
Club of Boston.

Colonel Clarke took at once a conspicuous place in the public
life of Massachusetts. His home was first in Wellesley, then in
Boston, and then in Brookline. From 1896 to 1899 he represented
the Ninth Norfolk District in the Massachusetts House of Repre-
sentatives, and as Chairman of the Committee on Ways and
Means became an acknowledged leader in the legislature. Presi-
dent McKinley, in 1899, appointed Colonel Clarke a member of
the United States Industrial Commission, and in 1902 he suc-
ceeded to the Chairmansliip, holding that place until 1903, when
the exhaustive and invaluable report of the Commission was
published. This was one of the most important parts of Colonel
Clarke's public service. It brought him into contact with the
country's ablest public men, and his fairness and thoroughness
won the trust alike of friends and opponents. Colonel Clarke
should have gone to Congress. He was a candidate for the
Republican nomination in his district in Massachusetts in 1898
and again in 1902, and his friends pressed him, in President
McKinley's first term, for nomination as Assistant Secretary of
the Treasury.

Colonel Clarke was a charter member of the first post of the
Grand Army of the Republic at St. Albans. He was secretary
and executive officer of the State commission that built the
Vermont monuments on the Gettysburg battlefield. Loyal to
his old comrades and intensely interested in their welfare,
Colonel Clarke was elected Junior Vice-Commander of the Depart-
ment of Vermont of the Grand Army, and President of the
Vermont Officers' Reunion Society. In Massachusetts he was a
member of Gettysburg Post in Boston and was Judge Advocate
General of the Massachusetts Department. In 3897 he was

450 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

appointed Judge Advocate of the National Encampment of the
Grand Army by Commander-in-Chief Clarkson. He was an active
member of the Loyal Legion and a faithful attendant on the
gatherings of his regiment, the Thirteenth Vermont. It was to
attend a reunion of his old command that he had gone to
Vermont when he was seized by his fatal illness. Colonel Clarke
kept up to the last his close relations with his Vermont friends,
and he cherished a deep love of his native State. He had been
President of the Vermont Veterans' Association of Boston and
President of the Vermont Association of Boston and vicinity.

The work of the Home Market Club broadened when Colonel
Clarke took charge of it. He had a remarkable gift of concise-
ness and clearness as a writer as well as a speaker. He devel-
oped the " Protectionist" as a magazine of economic information.
He wrote and delivered many addresses, pamphlets and papers
of various kinds, and he engaged in frequent public discussion
with the champions of free trade. It is estimated that Colonel
Clarke's writings in newspapers, magazines and official reports
" would aggregate forty volumes of three hundred pages each."
His life was a marvel of efficient industry. His executive ability
was conspicuous on such occasions as the great banquets of the
Home Market Club, where the guests and speakers were the
foremost men of the country and the audience was representative
of the best intelligence and substance of New England. Colonel
Clarke was a frequent visitor to Washington, and was always
welcomed there by leaders in public affairs, who honored him for
the extraordinary scope of his economic information and for his
rugged honesty and brave, soldierly character. He was a gentle-
man of the best New England type, courteous, outspoken, firm,
conscientious always. The loss of such a man is irreparable.

His vigorous mind was a storehouse of fact and argument.
He was ever exact, careful, considerate of his adversaries, a
soldier and a fighter by instinct and yet always a chivalric foe.
He believed in the protective system just as he believed in the
republican form of government. He lived through years of
many victories and few defeats. He regretted the divisions
which had come of late in the protection party, and he feared
the results. But he was confident of another and an ultimate
triumph.

One secret of Colonel Clarke's great power as a student and
expounder of economic truth was the close personal acquaintance

OBITUARY. 451

which he maintained with the leaders in our national industries
and with the practical development of these industries themselves.
He was their friend and they were his friends. They trusted
and honored him because they saw that he was working with all
sincerity for fair play to all and the welfare of the entire nation.
This direct practical knowledge of trade and commerce, combined
with a trained, scholarly mind and broad, ripe reading, jnade
Colonel Clarke invincible as a champion of the protective prin-
ciple.

Colonel Clarke's home in or near Boston was always a char-
acteristic, delightful New England home. Even when personal
griefs and anxieties crowded upon him he never lost his faith
and courage. He was a strong, true man to the end. His relig-
ious affiliations were with the South (Unitarian) Church of Boston.
He was married in Eochester, Vt., in 1864, to Josephine Briggs,
daughter of Hon. E. D. Briggs. Mrs. Clarke is living, as is a
daughter, Mrs. Samuel Williams, Jr. Colonel Clarke was honored
with a degree of Master of Arts from Dartmouth College in 1888.

JOHN DOBSON.

One of the veteran manufacturers of Philadelphia, John
Dobson, of the great firm of John & James Dobson, died on June
28, having been seriously injured by a fall down-stairs at his
home. Mr. Dobson was eighty-three years old, a native of York-
shire, England. He had lived in America since his youth, and
many years ago had started in manufacturing on his own account.
His practical ability won success for him in spite of many early
trials and discouragements. Mr. Dobson left his mill to lead a
company of his employees in the Union army when the Confeder-
ates invaded Pennsylvania. At the end of the war he entered
into partnership with his brother, James Dobson, and engaged in
the manufacture of carpets and subsequently velvets and plushes.
The business grew to large proportions. To their woolen fabrics
the Dobsons added the manufacture of worsted goods in the Brad-
ford Mills at Germantown. For a long time the firm of John &
James Dobson has been one of the largest wool manufacturing
concerns in the United States. Mr. Dobson was long an active
member in the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, a
strong protectionist and a leader in the public life of Philadelphia.
He leaves a daughter, Mrs. Elizabeth B. Riddle, wife of Samuel

452 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

D. Riddle, a membei- of the firm of Muller, Riddle & Company,
cotton yarn merchants, of which Mr. Dobson was a general partner.

G. OTTO KUNHARDT.

Mr. G. Otto Kunhabdt, who for several years had been
associated with the wool manufacturing business of George E.
Kunhardt, at Lawrence, Mass., and had been a partner since
1907, died at his home in North Andover on Saturday, July 29,
1911, after an illness of more than six months.

Mr. Kunhardt was the son of George Edward and Elizabeth
Moulton Kunhardt, and was born in New Brighton, Staten Island,
New York, on May 1, 1859. His father died in 1860, and his
mother and her family thereupon removed to England, taking up
their residence at Bath. There Mr. Kunhardt was educated.
He prepared for Woolwich Academy, the West Point of England,
but instead of entering there he changed his plans and became
an officer in the South African Frontier Mounted Constabulary.
In this service he took an active part in both the Zulu and the
first Boer Wars in South Africa. He was present at the skir-
mish in Zululand where the Prince Imperial of France lost his
life.

After the close of hostilities in South Africa Mr. Kunhardt,
in 1887, paid a visit to the United States, and was persuaded by
his cousin, Mr. George E. Kunhardt, to enter the business of
Phillips & Kunhardt at Lawrence. When the firm was changed
to the present designation of George E. Kunhardt, by the retire-
ment of Mr. Phillips in 1895, Mr. Otto Kunhardt became inter-
ested in the firm, and in 1907 was admitted to full partnership.

Mr. Kunhardt was married on April 7, 1891, to Gertrude,
daughter of Henry James Stevens of Boston and North Andover.
They have maintained their residence in North Andover.

Mr. Kunhardt was a graduate of Yorkshire College at Leeds,
England.

GEORGE HINCHLIFFE.

An able and successful practical man is lost to the American
wool manufacture in the death of Mr. George Hinchliffe, of
Lowell, Mass. Mr. Hinchliffe was a native of Huddersfield,
England, and was sixty years of age. He learned his profession
thoroughly in the large mills of the old country, and when he

OBITUARY. 453

came to America entered the service of the American Woolen
Company at the Assabet Mill at Maynard, Mass. During his
career here the number of looms was increased from 200 to 1,000.
Subsequently Mr. Hinchliffe joined as manufacturing expert the
well-known house of Parker, Wilder & Company, and later was
the agent of the Middlesex Company at Lowell until about two
years ago, when he relinquished active business. Mr. Hinchliffe
leaves a widow and eight children, one of whom is Mr. John R.
Hinchliffe, the well-known general manager of the Peace Dale
Manufacturing Company of Rhode Island.

MOSES CARE.

The oldest of wool manufacturers in the State of Maine, Mr.
Moses Carr, one of the original proprietors of the Carlton and
Sangerville mills at Sangerville, died in that town recently at
the remarkable age of one hundred and one years. Mr. Carr was
a native of Kennebec County. He was born on a farm there but
had resided in Sangerville since 1832. He followed farming
successfully and later connected himself with the wool manufac-
ture in the mills at Sangerville, where he proved liimself a
shrewd and capable business man. At one time he was president
of both of the local companies. In religious faith Mr. Carr was
a zealous Universalist, and he was chiefly instrumental in the
construction of the church of that denomination in Sangerville.
He leaves two sons and a daughter.

454 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

(JHtiitorial aitti Cntiustrtal JKiscellanp.

A MEMORABLE SUMMER.

THE CONTEST IN CONGRESS, THE PRESIDENT'S VETO, AND
THE WORK OF THE TARIFF BOARD.

President Taft has saved the wool and woolen industry of
this country from a severe disaster in his killing of the Under-
wood-La Follette compromise bill, which was presented to him on
August 16 by an anti-protection majority of the Senate and
House, with the perfect knowledge that he would veto it. Mr.
Taft met the issue unflinchingly. His veto message, which is
published elsewhere in the Bulletin, is a model of lucid and tem-
perate expression. The comment which it has evoked has been
favorable to an unexpected degree. Dissatisfaction is expressed
only by irreconcilable free traders, or by that radical " insurgent "
faction of the Middle West which appears to be on the verge of
complete separation from the Republican party, after the exam-
ple of its prototype, the extreme free silver faction, in 1896.

The original Underwood bill was printed and commented on in
the June Bulletin. Since then events have been moving rapidly.
The bill was passed by the House on June 20, on a vote of 220 to
100 — 24 Western "insurgent" Republicans cooperating with
the Democrats. On June 22 the measure was adversely reported
to the Senate. There was an intermittent debate for a month,
and on July 27 the Underwood bill was rejected, 36 to 44.
Immediately afterward, as a result of an agreement between
Democratic and *' insurgent " Republican Senators, a compromise
measure, framed by Senator La Follette, was adopted, 48 to 32.
This bill carried a duty of 35 per cent on raw wool for clothing
purposes, and of 55 per cent on cloths, dress goods, etc.

These rates proved too high for the majority of the House.
Under the guidance of a conference committee they were reduced
to 29 per cent and 49 per cent. On August 14, this final com-
promise was passed by the House, 206 to 90, and on August 15
by the Senate, 38 to 28.

On August 17, President Taft promptly returned the bill with-
out his approval, and on the following day an effort in the House

EDITOPaAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 455

to pass the bill over the veto failed, 227 to 129 — not the
requisite two-thirds majority. Thus has closed this particular^
chapter of political tariff-making. The Executive veto should
be regarded as a matter of course. Amid all the confusing dis-
cussion of rates and forms of duty, there is danger that the real,
vital fact will be obscured, that there is a broad and irreconcil-
able difference between the two conflicting schools of economic
thought somewhat roughly represented by the two political
parties in America — the protective idea, and the contrasted idea
of free trade or, in practice, tariff for revenue only. President
Taft is a protectionist, elected as a protectionist, pledged to the
maintenance of the protective principle. He held that that
principle was violated by the Underwood-La Follette bill, but his
objection was twofold. He urged that the measure was hastily
drawn on insufficient information, and that the interests of
intelligent and just legislation demanded that Congress should
wait a few months for the Tariff Board, whose report was
promised in December. The President has since powerfully
reinforced his message by a frank public address delivered on
August 26, at Hamilton, Mass.

In both his message and this address, Mr. Taft repeated his
personal opinion, expressed in his Winona speech, that some of
the duties in the present wool and woolen schedule are unneces-
sarily high. His critics recall these words, and charge the Presi-
dent with inconsistency and insincerity in vetoing a remedial
bill. Here is vivid proof of the extreme to which some public
men, many newspapers, and a part of the country have been
carried in a lit of anti-protection hysteria. If these critics had
actually stopped to think, they could have comprehended that
there was no obligation on an Executive who deemed a certain
law unwise to approve any amendment or substitute which might
be offered, though that proposal was contrary to his economic
belief and represented nothing but a juggled compromise.

As for the Underwood-La Follette bill in its specific provi-
sions, it is the worst bill for America and the best bill for Europe
that has been evolved by both houses of Congress since the
ante-bellum years when tariff laws were deliberately framed for
purposes of sectional vindictiveness. The Gorman- Wilson law
of 1894-1897 made raw wool free of duty, and the principal
wool manufactures dutiable at 40 and 50 per cent. That
nominal protection was reduced in practice, because of diffi-

456 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

culties inherent in the ad valorem form of duty, to 30 or 35 per
cent. These rates, like other rates in the same measure, proved
insufficient to protect American industry, and the Gorman-Wil-
son law was destroyed at the emphatic demand of the American
people.

This new proposal, with its duty of 29 per cent on raw wool
and 49 per cent on the principal manufactures, means in effect
about 30 or 35 per cent ad valorem, as contrasted with the 40 or
50 per cent of the Gorman-Wilson law. Senator La Follette,
whose regard for New England and the manufacturing East
recalls that of the statesmen of the fifties, secured from his
allies some protection for the wool growers, without compensa-
tion, at the expense of the mills — a protection, however, which
the authorized representatives of the Western sheep States have
angrily denounced as a betrayal of their cause.

There are several months for sober consideration before
December — enough time, it is hoped, to soften animosities
engendered by Canadian reciprocity and to bring at least a por-
tion of the so-called Western " insurgents " to a realizing sense
that tariff smashers cannot strike the factories without hurting
also the ranches and farms. There is only one possible market
for American wool, and that is in the mill towns of America.
President Taft understands this. No sentences of his veto
message are likely to drive more deeply into the public memory
than these, that — " Unless manufacturers are able to continue
their business and buy wool from domestic wool growers, the
latter will have no benefit from the tariff that is supposed to
protect them, because they will have to sell in competition with
foreign wools or send their sheep to the shambles. Hence the
wool grower is as much interested in the protection of the
manufacturer as he is in his own."

The failure of one sinister foray on the American wool and
Avoolen industry does not mean entire relief and peace, though
for even a respite the industry is grateful. President Taft
announces that he will recommend a revision of the wool and
woolen schedule as soon as the official report of the Tariff Board
is available at the session opening next December. By that time
the majority party in the House will have embarked upon a
general revision of the tariff. That is what is portended by the
attacks in the session just ended on the cotton, iron and steel,
chemical and other schedules. The lines are plainly forming in

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 457

American politics for another battle royal between the irreconcil-
able forces of protection and free trade.

The wool and woolen industry will not stand alone. Though
the industry did not ask for the establishment of a Tariff Board,
it is certain that the President's Board has found manufacturers
loyally willing to furnish all requisite information called for in
the current inquiries. Agents of the Board have spent much
time and study in the manufacturing establishments representa-
tive of the chief branches of the calling. The allotted time is
brief for such a work, but there have been frank good will and a
hearty desire to assist these responsible officials of the govern-
ment. Nobody can be more eager to have the work of tariff
revision performed in the light of wide, exact, honest knowledge
than the manufacturers themselves. They thoroughly believe
that the more the real facts are understood the stronger will be
the case for adequate protection.

MR. FORSTMANN'S ARTICLE.

AN IMPORTANT SUMMING UP OF OBSERVATIONS ON BOTH
SIDES OF THE ATLANTIC.

The iSTATioNAL Association of Wool Manufacturers
counts itself fortunate to present in this Bulletin the full text of
the notable paper on " Tlie Wool Manufacture in America and
Europe," written by Mr. Julius Forstmann, President of the
Forstmann & Huffmann Company, of Passaic, N.J., formerly a
member of the German Tariff Commission. Mr. Forstmann is
now an American citizen, a member of this Association and a
member of its Executive Committee. For several generations
Mr. Forstraann's family has been engaged in the wool manufac-
ture at Werden-on-the-Ruhr, in Germany. There he was edu-
cated in the business and there he attained a conspicuous posi-
tion in the industry which led to his being chosen to represent
that industry in the responsible work of the late German Tariff
Commission. For several years Mr. Forstmann has been estab-
lished as a manufacturer in the United States. He is engaged in
the production here of the same kinds of goods which he formerly
made, and his associates are now making, in the mills of Ger-
many. He is a zealous student and an exact and practical man

458 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUEEES.

of affairs, and he has already won a rank in his profession here
similar to that which he had held in his native land.

It ought to be manifest that a manufacturer who has enjoyed
this unusual experience on both sides of the Atlantic possesses
an exceptional equipment to discuss the tariff question with pre-
cision and authority. Mr. Forstraanu, through direct personal
contact, understands both American conditions and European
conditions m wool manufacturing. He is enabled to judge of
the comparative equipment and efficiency of the industry in the
New World and the Old, and to estimate the amount of protec-
tion that is necessary to maintain the business in America, where
the wages of the operatives are to the wages in Germany as
222.92 are to 100 — an excess in the United States of more than
two to one. Xor are the wages of the mill labor directly
employed the only factor in the situation. As Mr. Forstmann so
clearly and convincingly points out in his article, there are other
important factors in the final actual cost of production which
must be allowed for in the framing of an adequate tariff. The
real factors, including labor, he summarizes thus :

1. Greater capitalization and consequent higher interest

charges ; or conversely, lower dividends on the same
amount of capital invested in America than in
Europe.

2. Greater cost of erecting, equipping and organizing mill,

necessitating correspondingly larger allowance for
depreciation.

3. Greater cost of operating and maintaining mill, including

higher salaries and wages paid in United States.

4. Greater cost of protected raw material.

5. Lack of foreign market for American manufactures, and

6. Must also take into consideration the various other dis-

advantages, outlined above — fashion, better trained
labor, etc. — under which American manufacturers of
woolen and worsted fabrics labor as compared with
European manufacturers.

From his observation and experience here and abroad, Mr.
Forstmann maintains that the current attacks on Schedule K are
unjust, that the profits of the manufacture are not excessive, and
that the woolen duties as they now stand are in practical effect
a tax on luxuries because the imports are of the finer and cost-
lier goods, bought and worn only by the well-to-do — a tax on

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 459

luxuries precisely as similar duties are considered in Europe.
One particularly significant point is Mr. Forstmann's testimony
to the intensively competitive character of the American market.
There are a thousand woolen mills in the United States, fighting
each other constantly for business with characteristic American
vigor and aggressiveness. As a result, it is inevitable that it
should be true, as Mr. Forstmann declares, that the profits of
these mills '* are not higher but rather lower than those of similar
European enterprises."

Mr. Forstmann's article has already been widely distributed
in pamphlet form by the National Association. It has been
read by Senators and Representatives and other thinking men
all over the United States. We would urge those who have
seen it once to read it now again. It is one of the most valuable
contributions that have been made to the literature of protec-
tion. And it is because of its unique importance and enduring
historical value that it is now published in the pages of the
Bulletin.

UNITED STATES CENSUS, 1909.

COTTON, HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS AND COMBINED TEX-
TILES. - PRELIMINARY STATEMENTS.

Preliminary statistics for three selected industries in the
United States, cotton goods, cotton small wares, and hosiery and
knit goods, based upon the returns for the censuses of 1909,
1904, and 1899, are contained in a comparative statement pre-
pared under the supervision of Mr. William M. Steuart, Chief
Statistician for Manufactures in the Bureau of the Census, and
issued by Census Director Durand. The figures for 1909 are
preliminary and subject to necessary revision later, but it is
believed that there will be no material change in the percentages
stated.

The reports were taken for the calendar year 1909 wherever
the system of bookkeeping permitted figures for that period to
be secured, but in some instances where the business year of the
establishment differed from the calendar year the reports relate
to the business year falling most largely within 1909.

The word " establishment," as used herein, may mean more
than one mill or plant, provided they are owned or controlled

460 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

and operated by a person, partnership, corporation, or other
owner or operator and are located in the same town or city and
for which one set of books of account is kept.

COTTON GOODS.

For cotton goods the capital invested in 1909 was f> 808,287,938,
as compared with ^605,100,164 in 1904, a gain of 1203,187,774,
or 34 per cent. The gain from 1899 to 1904 in the capital
invested in cotton goods was $144,257,392, or 31 per cent.

The cost of materials used in the manufacture of cotton goods
in 1909 was $361,330,246, as compared with $282,047,648 in
1904, a gain of $79,282,598, or 28 per cent. The gain from 1899
to 1904 in the cost of materials used in this industry was
$108,606,258, or 63 per cent.

The amount of money paid out in wages in the manufacture
of cotton goods in 1909 was $129,768,088, as compared with
$94,377,696 in 1904, a gain of $35,390,392, or 37.4 per cent. For
the same industry the amount of money paid out for wages in
1899 was $85,126,310, showing an increase in 1904 of $9,251,386,
or 11 per cent.

The value of products of manufactured cotton goods amounted
to $616,524,665 in 1909, as compared with $442,451,218 in 1904,
a gain of 39 per cent. The value of the products in this indus-
try in 1899 amounted to $332,806,156, showing a gain in 1904
over 1899 of $109,645,062, or 33 per cent.

The average number of wage earners employed in the manu-
facture of cotton goods in 1909 was 371,120, as compared with
310,458 in 1904, an increase of 60,662, or 20 per cent. In 1899
the average number of wage earners employed was 297,929, the
increase from 1899 to 1904 was 12,529, or 4 per cent.

In the average number of wage earners there were 190,531
men 16 years of age and over employed in this industry in 1909,
as compared with 145,718 in 1904, an increase of 44,813, or 31
per cent. The number of men 16 years of age and over
employed in 1899 was 134,354, showing an increase from 1899 to
1904 of 11,364, or 9 per cent.

The number of women 16 yertrs of age and over employed in
the manufacture of cotton goods in 1909 was 141,728, as com-
pared with 124,711 in 1904, an increase of 17,017, or 14 per cent.
The increase from 1899 to 1904 of women 16 years of age and
over was only 1,002, or 1 per cent.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 461

The total number of wage earners, male and female, under 16
years of age employed in the manufacture of cotton goods was
38,861 in 1909, as compared with 40,029 in 1904. This shows a
decrease in 1909 of 1,168, or 3 per cent. In 1899 the number of
wage earners under 16 years of age was 39,866, showing a slight
increase from 1899 to 1904 of 163, or about 0.4 per cent.

VALUE OF PRODUCTS $600,000,000.

There were 1,206 establishments engaged in the manufacture
of cotton goods in 1909, which compares with 1,077 in 1904 and
973 in 1899, an increase of 24 per cent during the decade. This
percentage does not begin to show the real advance in the indus-
try, because the average capacity of the establishment was
increased materially during the period.

This statement does not include statistics for 115 establishments
engaged in the manufacture of cotton small wares, which reported
products with a total value of $13,174,111 in 1909. Although
these establishments use cotton yarn as their chief material, they
do not produce commodities technically described as cotton
goods. Neither does it include statistics for 65 establislunents
engaged exclusively in the manufacture of cotton twine, cordage,
and rope, which are included in the cordage and twine industry.
The principal material used by these establishments was raw
cotton, costing $2,923,000; the value of products was $6,805,000,
chief of which was twine, with a value of $3,512,000, and
cordage and rope, valued at $2,500,000.

INCKKASED COST OF COTTON.

The quantity of cotton consumed increased from 1,814,003,000
pounds in 1899 to 2,332,569,000 pounds in 1909, a gain of 29 per
cent, while the cost of this cotton increased fi*om $124,905,000
to $274,402,000, or 120 per cent. The proportion of foreign
cotton used in 1899 and in 1909 was practically the same, being
55,845,000 pounds, or 3.1 per cent of the total, in the former
year, and 76,199,000 pounds, or 3.3 per cent, in the latter. Much
the greater portion of the foreign cotton consumed was Egyp-
tian, which is used extensively in the manufacture of thread and
cotton yarns. Small quantities of Indian, Chinese, and other
cottons were also used.

The amount of cotton waste, purchased as such for use, almost
doubled during the decade, being 40,835,000 pounds in 1899 and

462 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

79,419,000 pounds in 1909. The cost increased from f 1,513,000
to $4,167,000. Formerly large quantities of cotton waste were
exported to Europe and used there in the manufacture of cheaper
grades of goods ; but the installation of machinery adapted to
its use, together with the high price of cotton, has increased the
consumption of this material both in cotton mills and in hosiery
and knit-goods factories.

Cotton yarn purchased increased from 83,832,000 pounds to
108,869,000 pounds during the decade, a gain of 30 per cent,
while the cost increased from f 15,750,000 to $29,909,000, or 90
per cent. The installation of weaving departments in mills
formerly engaged exclusively in the manufacture of yarns is
responsible for the comparatively small increase in the quantity
of yarns purchased as such. The relative gain in the quantity
of silk yarns used was large, and their value increased from
$1,784,000 in 1899 to $5,776,000 in 1909. Other yarns pur-
chased decreased during the decade, the quantity in 1899 being
3,297,000 pounds, costing $1,113,000, while in 1909 it was
3,120,000 pounds, costing $1,691,000. The cost of starch,
chemicals, and dyestuffs was returned in 1899 at $6,895,000,
while in -1909 it was $6,939,000.

MORE THAN SIX BILLION SQUARE YARDS OF FABRICS.

The progress of the industry during the decade was marked,
the increase in the total value of products manufactured, as
before stated, being 85 per cent, and while the percentage of
increase in the quantity of products was not nearly so large, the
aggregate was considerable and distributed generally throughout
the list. Plain cloths for printing or converting increased from
1,581,614,000 square yards, valued at $57,781,000, in 1899, to
2,437,967,000 square yards, valued at $121,341,000, in 1909, a
gain of 54 per cent in quantity and 110 per cent in value.

There were 1,212,403,000 square yards of brown or bleached
sheetings and shirtings manufactured in 1899 and 1,307,958,000
square yards in 1909. The increases made in the manufacture
of twills and sateens, fancy woven fabrics, and ginghams were
all very large, being 65, 80, and 93 per cent, respectively. In
1909 there were manufactured 388,315,000 square yards of twills
and sateens, valued at $34,274,000 ; 427,769,000 square yards of
fancy woven fabrics, valued at $47,666,000; and 536,443,000
square yards of ginghams, valued at $37,801,000.

Duck produced increased during the decade from 129,234,000

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 463

square yards, valued at $14,263,000, to 163,487,000 square yards,
valued at $27,846,000, a gain of 26 per cent in quantity and 95
per cent in value. The quantity of both drills and cottonades
manufactured decreased during the decade, but on account of
the higher range of values in 1909 both show increases in value.
In 1909 there were 215,580,000 square yards of drills manufac-
tured, valued at $16,265,000, and 25,676,000 square yards of
cottonades, valued at $3,344,000.

Ticks, denims, and stripes produced in 1909 amounted to
264,175,000 square yards, valued at $27,288,000, a gain during
the decade of 54 per cent in quantity and 66 per cent in value.
Napped fabrics, with 305,656,000 square yards in 1909, valued at
$25,695,000, show an increase of 14 per cent in quantity and 41
per cent in value during the decade. The quantity of corduroy,
cotton velvet, and plush much more than doubled, being 7,962,000
square yards in 1899 and 19,706,000 square yards in 1909. The
value of this product increased from $2,682,000 to $6,966,000, or
160 per cent.

REMARKABLE ADVANCE IN LACE GOODS.

The total quantity of upliolstering goods increased during the
decade from 51,280,000 square yards, valued at $8,671,000, to
100,325,000 square yards, valued at $15,996,000, an increase of
96 per cent in quantity and 84 per cent in value. The increase
is attributable almost entirely to the item of lace and lace
curtains, which was returned in 1899 at 37,825,000 square yards,
valued at $3,585,000, and at the census of 1909 at 85,350,000
square yards, valued at $9,725,000, a gain of 126 per cent in
quantity and 171 per cent in value. In 1889 the value of these
goods manufactured was only $1,225,000. The progress in this
branch of the industry has been remarkable and bids fair to con-
tinue. In 1899 there were 32,740,000 square yards of cotton
bags and bagging manufactured in this country, while in 1909 the
amount was 52,694,000 square yards, an increase of 61 per cent.

Cotton yarn manufactured for sale is one of the largest single
items shown under " Products." In 1899 there were 332,186,000
pounds of cotton yarn, valued at $55,189,000, produced for sale,
while the corresponding figures in 1909 were 470,221,000 pounds,
valued at $109,219,000, an increase of 42 per cent in quantity
and 98 per cent in value. These yarns are spun for a variety of
uses and are disposed of largely to other cotton mills and to
manufacturers of woolen, silk, and hosiery and knit goods. In

464 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

1909 the quantity of thread manufactured was 23,701,000 pounds,
valued at $20,516,000, showing an increase of 51 per cent in
quantity and 73 per cent in value.

There were 13,600,000 pounds of cotton twine, valued at
$2,397,000, manufactured in cotton mills. This, however, does
not, as previously stated, represent the entire quantity manu-
factured in the country, as large quantities were returned by
establishments engaged exclusively in the production of these
goods. Batting and wadding manufactured in cotton mills during
the census year amounted to 10,626,000 pounds, valued at
$1,472,000, while cotton waste not used for further manufacture
by the establishments producing it amounted to 309,298,000
pounds, vakied at $10,834,000. All other products amounted to
$14,557,000.

THE TABULAR SUMMARIES.

The following statements give the number of establishments,
quantity, and cost of principal materials used, and quantity and
value of the different products returned, for 1909, 1904, and
1899:

Cotton Goods. — Ndmber of Establishments and Quantity and Cost
OF Principal Materials Used: 1909, 1904, and 1899.

Item.

Census.

Per Cent
of

1909.

1004.

1809.

Increase,
1899-1909.

Number of establishments

Principal materials, total cost ....
Cotton :

Domestic —

1,206
$322,884,000

2,256,370,000
$261,203,000

76,199,000
$13,199,000

79,419,000
$4,167,000

108,869,000
$29,909,000

1,921,000
$5,776,000

3,120,000
$1,691,000

$6,939,000

1,077
$256,456,000

1,829,374,000
$214,225,000

43,700,000
$7,597,000

76,523,000
$3,802,000

91,595,000
$21,601,000

370,000
$1,146,000

2,729,000
$1,056,000

$6,029,000

973
$151,960,000

1,758,158,000
$118,834,000

55,845,000
$6,071,000-

40,835,000
$1,513,000

83,832,000
$15,750,000

507,000
$1,784,000

3,297,000
$1,113,000

$6,895,000

24
112

Cost

Foreign —

120
36

Cost

117

Waste :

Cost

175

Yarn:

Cotton —

Cost

Silk —

279

224

Other —

Starch, chemicale, and dye-stuffs,

1 Decrease.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

465

Cotton Goods — Products, bt Kind, Quantity, and Value: 1909, 1904,

AND 1899.

Total value

Plain cloths for printing or convert-
ing:

Square yards

Value

Brown or bleached sheetings and
shir lings :

Square yards

Value

Twills and sateens :

Square yards

Value

Fancy woven fabrics :

Square yards

Value

Ginghams :

Square yards

Value

Duck:

Square yards

Value

Drills :

Square yards .

Value

Ticks, denims, and stripes:

Square yards

Value

Cottonades :

Square yards

Value

Napped fabrics:

Square yards

Value

Corduroy, cotton velvet and plush :

Square yards

Value

Mosquito and other netting :

Square yards

Value

Upholstery goods :

Tapestries (piece goods and cur-
tains) :

Square yards

Value

Lace and lace curtains :

Square yards

Value

Other, including covers .

Square yards

Value

Bags and bagging :

Square yards

Value

Cotton towels and toweling:

Square yards

Value

Cotton yarn manufactured for sale :

Pounds

Value

Thread :

Pounds

Value

Twine :

Pounds

Value .

Batting and wadding :

Pounds

Value

Cotton waste, sold as such :

Pounds

Value

All other products, value

Census.

lOOO.

$616,297,000

2,437,967,000
$121,341,000

1,307,958,000
$80,318,000

388,315,000
$34,274,000

427,769,000
$47,666,000

536,443,000
$37,801,000

163,487,000
$27,846,000

215,580,000
$16,265,000

264,175,000
§27,288,000

25,676,000
$3,344,000

305,656,000
$25,695,000

19,706,000
$6,966,000

59,101,000
$2,104,000

11,753,000
$5,015,000

85,350,000
$9,725,000

3,222,000
$1,256,000

52,694,000
$4,332,000

52,808,000
$6,066,000

470.221,000
$109,219,000

23,701,000
$20,516,000

13,600,000
$2,397,000

10,6-26,000
$1,472,000

309,298,000
$10,834,000
$14,557,000

1904.

$442,451,000 $332,806,000

1,818,216,000
$80,312,000

1,172,309,000
$61,25S,000

366,143,000
$23,701,000

306,255,000
$28,486,000

302,316,000
$22,472,000

122,601,000
$17,006,000

194,735,000
$12,596,000

256,375.000
$23,798,000

25,362,000
$2,999,000

330,808.000
$26,108,000

16,015,000
$4,791,000

36,233,000
$795,000

9,605,000
$4,243,000

53,511,000
$7,208,000

2,476,000
$661,000

57,068,000
$3,954,000

40.280,000
$4,365,000

364,473,000
$79,885,000

17,164,000
$15,043,000

6,677,000
$1,283,000

10,166,000
$1,173,000

247,335,000
$10,049,000
$10,270,000

1,581,614,000
$57,781,000

1,212,403,000
$55,513,000

235,861,000
$14,301,000

237.842,000
$21,066,000

278.393.000
$16,179,000

129.234.000
$14,263,000

237,207,000
$11,863,000

171,801.000
$16,447,000

26,324,000
$2,791,000

268,853.000
$18,231,000

7.962.000
$2,682,000

41,885,000
$876,000

10,132,000
$4,1-.'4,000

37,825,000
$3,585,000

3,323,000
$962,000

32,740,000
$2,554,000

(»)

332,186,000
$55,189,000

15,741,000
$11,825,000

11,132,000
$1,476,000

10,56'!,000

$864,000

270,101.000

$5,552,01)0

$14,683,000

Per Cent

of -4

Increase,

1899-1909.

54
110

65
140

80
126

93
134

148
160

41
140

126
171

31
31

42
98

51
73

22
63

1
70

15
95
1'

1 Decrease.

'Included in "All other products.

466 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
COTTON SMALL WARES.

This industry in 1909 had a total capital investment of
$12,820,772, as compared with $8,010,491 in 1904, showing an
increase of $4,810,281, or 60 per cent. The amount of capital
invested in 1899 was $6,397,385, showing an increase from 1899
to 1904 of $1,613,106, or 25 per cent.

The total cost of materials used in the cotton small wares
Industry in 1909 was $6,942,774, as compared with $4,207,655 in
1904, a gain of $2,735,119, or 65 per cent. In 1899 the cost of
materials used amounted to $3,110,137, showing a gain from
1899 to 1904 of $1,097,518, or 35 per cent.

The total wages paid out in this industry in 1909 amounted to
$3,069,422, as compared with $1,828,100 in 1904, an increase of
$1,241,322, or 68 per cent. The amount of wages paid out in
1899 was $1,563,442. The increase in 1904 over 1899 was
$264,658, or 17 per cent.

The total value of products of the cotton small wares industry
was $13,174,111 in 1909, as compared with $8,016,486 in 1904, a
gain of $5,157,625, or 64 per cent. The value of products in
1899 was $6,394,164, the increase in 1904 thus being $1,622,322,
or 25 per cent.

The average number of wage earners in this industry was
7,698 in 1909, as compared with 5,416 in 1904 and 4,932 in 1899.
The increase in 1909 over 1904 was 2,282, or 42 per cent, and in
1904 over 1899, 484, or 10 per cent.

The men 16 years of age and over numbered 2,553 for 1909,
1,565 in 1904, and 1,367 in 1899. The increases were 63 per
cent from 1904 to 1909, and 15 per cent from 1899 to 1904.

The women 16 years of age and over numbered 4,663 in 1909,
as compared with 3,452 in 1904, and with 3,173 in 1899. The
increases here show 35 per cent from 1904 to 1909, and 9 per
cent from 1899 to 1904.

The total number of wage earners under 16 years of age
employed in this industry was 482 in 1909, as compared with
399 in 1904, an increase of 83, or 21 per cent. In 1899 there
were 392 wage earners under 16 years of age, or only 7 less than
in 1904.

EDITORIAL AND INDtJSTKlAL MISCELLANY. 467

HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS.*

The total investment in this industry was $162,854,787 in
1909, as compared with $106,663,531 in 1904, an increase of
$56,191,256, or 53 per cent. The capital invested in 1899 was
$81,860,604, showing an increase in 1904 over 1899 of $24,802,-
927, or 30 per cent.

The total cost of materials used in this industry amounted to
$109,223,860 in 1909, as compared with $76,593,782 in 1904, an
increase of $32,630,078, or 43 per cent. The cost of materials
used in 1899 was $51,071,859. The increase in 1904 over 1899
was $25,521,923, or 50 per cent.

The total amount paid out in wages in the hosiery and knit
goods industry in 1909 was $38,271,743, as compared with
$31,536,024 in 1904, a gain of $6,735,719, or 21 per cent. The
amount paid out in wages in 1899 was $24,358,627, the increase
in 1904 over 1899 thus being 30 per cent.

The total value of products amounted to $198,571,588 in 1909,
as compared with $136,558,139 in 1904, a gain of $62,013,449, or
45 per cent. The value of products in 1899 was $95,482,566,
which was $41,075,573 less than in 1904, the gain for 1904 over
1899 being 43 per cent.

The average number of wage earners employed in the hosiery
and knit goods industry was 128,720 in 1909, as compared with
103,715 in 1904, an increase of 25,005, or 24 per cent. The
increase in the number of wage earners from 1899 to 1904 was
20,328, or 24 per cent.

There were 34,597 men 16 years of age and over employed in
this industry in 1909, as compared with 25,167 in 1904, an
increase of 9,430, or 37.4 per cent. There were 21,154 employed
in 1899, the gain for 1904 over 1899 being 19 per cent.

The number of women 16 years of age and over employed in
the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods was 83,564 in 1909,
as compared with 68,867 in 1904, a gain of 14,697, or 21 per cent.
The number employed in 1899 was 53,565, the increase for 1904
over 1899 being 15,302, or 29 per cent.

The number of wage earners under 16 years of age was 10,559
in 1909, as compared with 9,681 in 1904, an increase of 878, or
9.1 per cent. The increase from 1899 to 1904 was 12 per cent,
the number employed in 1899 being 8,668.

* See Bulletin for June, page 330.

468 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUEERS.
SUMMARY FOR SELECTED INDUSTRIES.

The comparative summary for 1899, 1904, and 1909 follows.
The figures for 1909 are preliminary and subject to change.

Year.

Cotton
Goods.

Cotton Small
Wares.

Hosiery and
Knit Goods.

1909
1904
1899

$808,287,938
605,100,164
460,842,772

$12,820,772
8,010,491
6,397,385

$162,854,787

106,663,531

81,860,604

Cost of materials used

1909
1904
1899

361,330,246
282,047,648
173,441,390

6,942,774
4,207,655
3,110,137

109,223,8601
76,593,782
61,071,859

Wages

1909
1904
1899

129,768,088
94,377,696
85,126,310

3,069,422
1,828,100
1,563,442

38,271,743
31,536,024
24,358,627

Value of products

1909
1904
1899

616,524,665
442,451,218
332,806,156

13,174,111
8,016,486
6,394,164

198,571,5881
136,558,139
95,482,566

Average numbei- of wage earners . . .

1909
1904
1899

371,120
310,458
297,929

7,698
5,416
4,932

128,720
103,715
83,387

Men 16 years and over

1909
1904
1899

190,531
145,718
134,354

2,553
1,565
1,367

34,597
25,167
21,154

Women 16 years and over ....

1909
1904
1899

141,728
124,711
123,709

4,663
3,452
3.173

83,564
68,867
53,565

Wage earners under 16 years . . .

1909
1904
1899

38,861
40,029
39,866

482
399
392

10,559
9,681
8,668

1 These figures should be used instead of those in the earlier report. Bulletin, page 330.

COMBINED TEXTILES FOR THE UNITED STATES.

The preliminary statement of the Thirteenth United States
Census of Manufactures of the combined textiles industry con-
tains a summary comparing the figures for 1899, 1904, and 1909.
The figures are subject to such revision as may be necessary after
a further examination of the original reports.

The summary shows percentages of increase as follows : 47
per cent for the period (1904-1909) as compared with 14 per cent
(1899-1904) in the value added by manufacture ; 37 per cent
(1904-1909) as compared with 31 per cent (1899-1904) in the
value of products; 36 per cent (1904-1909) as compared with 28
per cent (1899-1904) in the capital invested ; 33 per cent (1904-
1909) as compared with 21 per cent (1899-1904) in the salaries
and wages paid ; 31 per cent (1904-1909) as compared with 44

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

469

per cent (1899-1904) in the total cost of materials used ; 28 per
cent (1904-1909) as compared witli 36 per cent (1899-1904) in
the total miscellaneous expenses ; 27 per cent (1904-1909) as
compared with 41 per cent (1899-1904) in the number of salaried
employees; 18 per cent (1904-1909) as compared with 11 per
cent (1899-1904) in the average number of wage earners em-
ployed ; and 13 per cent (1904-1909) as compared with 4 per
cent (1899-1904) in the number of establishments.

There were 4,820 establishments in 1909, as compared with
4,208 in 1904, and with 4,100 in 1899; an increase of 13 per cent
in 1909, and of 4 per cent in 1904.

The value of products in 1909 was $1,592,482,000 and
$1,164,706,000 in 1904, and $886,883,000 in 1899, an increase of
37 per cent in 1909 and 31 per cent in 1904. The average per
establishment was approximately $330,400 in 1909, $272,900 in
1904, and $216,300 in 1899.

The value of products represents their selling value or price
at the plants as actually turned out by the factories during the
census year, and does not necessarily have any relation to the
amount of sales for that year. The values under this head also
include the amount received for work done on materials furnished
by others.

Comparative Summary: 1899, 1904, and 1909.
{The figures for 1909 are preliminary and subject to change.)

Number of establishments . . .

Persons employed

Salaried employees ....
Wage earners (average

number)

Capital

Salaries and wages

Materials

MiKcellaneous expenses . . .

Value of products

Value added iiy manufacture
(value of products less cost of
materials)

Number or Amount.

1909.

4,820

861,621

27,881

1904.

4,268
725,997
21,946

1899.

4,100

647,505

15,526

833,740 704,051 631,979

;l,709,265,000 '$1,254,896,000 8982,560,UUU

§349,193,000 I $263,074,000 8217,407,000

$947,676,000 $726,357,000 I $503,511,00 0

$102,357,000 I $80,229,000 j $59,013,000

SI, 592,482,000 :S1,164,706,000 $886,883,000

$644,806,000 $438,349,000 $383,372,000

Per cent of
Increase.

1904- 1N99-
1909. 1904.

12.7
18.7
27.0

18.4
36.2
32.8
30.5
27.6
36.7

4.1
12.1
41.3

11.4
27.7
21.1
44.3
36.0
31.3

470 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURKRS.

Comparative Summary, by Industries: 1899, 1904, and 1909.
(^T he figures for 1909 are preliminary and subject to change.)

Year.

Number or Amount.

Item.

Total.

Cotton
Goods, In-
cluding Cot-
ton Small
Wares.

Hosiery

and Knit

Goods.

Wool Manu-
factures.

Silk and
Silk Goods.

Cordage

and Twine,

Jute, and

Linen

Goods.

Number of estab- 1

Salaried employ- \
868 )

Wage earnersf
(average uum- ?
ber) t

Capital 1

Salaries and |
wage* . . . . )

Materials ... J

MiBcellaneoue . J

Value of prod- \
ucta )

Value added by /
manu f ac tu r e
(value of prod-
ucts less cost /
of materials) . \

1909
1904
1899

1909
1904

1899

1909
1904
1899

4,820
4,268
4,100

27.881
21,946
16,526

833,740
704,051
631,979

$1,709,265,000

$1,254,896,000

$982,560,000

$349,193,000
$263,074,000
$217,407,000

$947,676,000
$726,357,000
$503,511,000

$102,357,000
$80,229,000
$59,013,000

$1,592,482,000

$1,164,706,000

$886,883,000

$644,806,000
$438,349,000
$383,372,000

1,322
1,154
1,055

8,434
6,981
4,902

378,818
315,874
302,861

$821,109,000
$613,111,000
$467,240,000

$146,256,000
$106,444,000
$94,040,000

$368,273,000
$286,255,000
$176,551,000

$34,472,000
$30,487,000
$22,113,000

$629,699,000
$450,468,000
$389,200,000

$261,426,000
$164,213,000
$162,649,000

1,374
1,144
1,007

5,721
4,330
2,831

129,287
104,092
83,691

$163,641,000

$106,944,000

$82,066,000

$46,012,000
$36,070,000
$27,573,000

$110,049,000
$76,7*9,000
$51,196,000

$13,056,000

$10,418,000

$6,628,000

$200,143,000

$137,077,000

$95,835,000

$90,094,000
$60,288,000
$44,639,000

1,126
1,213
1,414

6,988
5,616
4,496

201,751
179,976
159,108

$506,323,000
$370,862,000
$310,180,000

$100,398,000
$78,975,000
$64,389,000

$322,364,000
$242,561,000
$181,159,000

$27,562,000
$21,-588,000
$17,330,000

$507,219,000
$380,934,000
$296,990,000

$184,855,000
$138,373,000
$115,831,000

849
624
483

5,492
4,027
2,657

98,769
79,601
65,416

$144,799,000

$109,556,000

$81,082,000

$45,929,000
$31,5111,000
$24,116,000

$107,575,000
$75,861,000
$62,407,000

$23,249,000
$14,053,000
$10,264,000

$196,475,000
$133,288,000
$107,256,000

$88,900,000
$57,427,000
$44,849,000

149
133
141

1,246
992
641

25,115

24,508
20,903

$73,393,000
$54,423,000
$41,992,000

$10,598,000

$10,075,000

$7,289,000

$39,415,000
$44,891,000
$32,198,000

$4,018,000
$3,683,000
$2,678,000

$58,946,000
$62,939,000
$47,602,000

$19,531,000
$18,048,000
$15,404,000

THE CONFERENCE AT WORK.

HOW STATESMEN WRESTLE WITH ECONOMIC PROBLEMS
WHEN THE MERCURY IS AT 100 IN THE SHADE.

A GRAPHIC and entertaining description of the scenes that
attended the final action of the Conference Committee of the two
houses on the wool and woolen bill is that presented by Mr,
William E. Brigham, the accomplished Washington correspondent
of the " Boston Transcript," in the " Transcript " of August 12.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 471

Mr. Brigham was an eye witness of the procedure, and he sets
forth the jaunty manner in which, with quips and jests, the far
Southern and Western statesmen dictated the rates that should
sliield or destroy a great national industry. Mr. Brigham says :

Never within the recollection of the oldest inhabitant have the
people been treated to the sight of an important conference com-
mittee actually at work. Sometimes, when the committees are
not so particular, doors are left open to admit tlie breezes, and
newspaper men who wander in upon the statesmen are not vio-
lently thrown out. But in this case, when the Senate and House
conferees met to consider differences over the woolen bills, the
doors were thrown wide and the press invited to enter and be
seated. As a consequence the hearings were largely attended by
newspapermen, but comparatively little of the small talk between
La Follette and Underwood has gone forth — probably because
no ban was put upon it. La Follette had threatened tliat after
the conferences he would give the whole story to the press and
it was this threat that led Bailey of Texas to suggest to his
willing and grinning colleagues that the people be asked in.

The scene is laid in the great consultation room of the Senate
Committee on Finance. This is the largest chamber in the
Senate office building, but it has none of the throne or court room
effects installed by Sereno E. Payne in the Ways and Means
quarters on the House side. The committee sit at a long table
in the center — that on the House side is oval and is one of the
finest single pieces of mahogany in the country. A tall bottle of
spring water stands like a stork in the center. Almost every one
has shed coat and vest — the temperature was 100 in the shade
when the committee convened yesterday — so the mahogany is
fringed with shirt waists. . . .

La Follette of course dominates the conversation. He is strong
in an encounter of this kind. Never discourteous, he is abrupt
and blunt, expressing his dissent in no uncertain phrase and
wasting no time in polite explanations.

"No, I don't think any such thing," he comments with inof-
fensive simplicity when Underwood, always as cool and unruffled
as a Senate doorkeeper, tries to bring him into line on a certain
point. La Follette is not a wool expert, but he knows the sched-
ule better than Underwood, who is not bothered, as La Follette
is, by trying eternally to balance the manufacturer's interests
with those of the dear people. La Follette thinks before he
speaks and his retorts prove that his mind has been busy.

" 1 am not sure that I will oppose making a separate classifi-
cation of blankets and flannels for underwear," he informs Mr.
Underwood, " but I want a little time to look up some figures."

Underwood liad been pressing for this classification and ex-
plained that these articles were a common necessity and should
bear lower rates for that reason.

472 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

" That may be so," comments La Follette, " but if you will
study your bill you will see that you have put a higher duty on
them than on ready-made clothing or laces. A blanket valued at
only fifty cents a pound is a cheap article, but you have made it
46 per cent against 35 on laces."

In standing for higher duties on some articles La Follette
makes a frank explanation. " We are at work here at best with
blacksmith's tools," he says, " but this is safer until Ave can have
scientific revision. This is only tentative,"

Bailey interjects himself occasionally, usually with some oro-
tund generality that reads pretty well even if it does not clear up
any tariff obfuscation.

" People ought not to wear woolen flannels next the skin any-
way," remarks Bailey. " I haven't worn flannel next my skin
for fifteen years and I haven't had a cold."

" Neither have I," booms oat Mr. Payne from across the table
— although just what Mr. Payne means is not clear, for he had the
cold of his life last winter and some of his friends were really
anxious.

Then Baile}^, just to show there are no hard feelings, quotes
from a new book by Professor Taussig in which that eminent
educator remarks that " The speech of Mr. Payne in introducing
his tariff bill is in contrast with the empty and flambuoyant
speeches of Dingley and McKinley ; " and he passes over the book
that Mr. Payne may see.

The colloquies are systematically good-natured, as a rule. They
could hardly be otherwise, for the task of the two conferees is
simply one in easy mathematics. The La Follette rate on raw
wools was 35 per cent, the Underwood 20 per cent. The differ-
ence is fifteen. Half of fifteen is 7J. Therefore, in order to
"readjust" the rates on woolen manufactures La Follette has
only to come down or Underwood to go up either 8 or 7 per
cent and there you are. It would hardly do to delay the game
by remarking that in some lines of woolens Great Britain could
knock us all to pieces and in others we could probably hold our
own, so the two statesmen do not clutter up the debate with
such irrelevant considerations. They make a general rate covering
everything from women's dress goods to suspenders and trust in
God and the President that the woolen industry shall not be
afflicted with their handiwork.

" Ten per cent above tops is sufficient protection for yarn,"
remarks Senator La Follette with modest finality, " so we will
make the duty 39 per cent," and Chairman Underwood placidly
agrees.

Thus is composed, in the white light of a puzzled publicity, the
great hybrid woolen bill which President Taft will be condemned
by Democrats and progressives for refusing to sign and ap-
plauded by everybody that knows anything about the woolen
business.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 473

AN ENGLISH VIEW.

LIVELY ANTICIPATIONS OF BENEFITS TO FLOW FROM THE
WORK OF MR. UNDERWOOD.

Though our canny Transatlantic kinsmen are not saying much,
they are watching with keen interest the efforts of certain
American statesmen to cripple and destroy the protective tariff
system, and turn over to Europe the profits and wages that now
inure to the benefit of America. In the September "Pro-
tectionist " the London correspondent of the " Protectionist "
presents this frank and engaging statement of the English view :

The attitude of woolen manufacturers in England is one of
extreme reserve toward the Underwood bill. So sweeping a
redvxction of duties would, of course, materially benefit British
exporters of textile goods, especially Bradford goods, and they
feel that anything they might express would be quoted against
the bill, and thus militate against its passing into law. For this
reason, among others, they keep silent and prefer to let their free
trade friends in the United States do their work.

But we can, to some extent, forecast the future by the aid of
past experience, and we have a vivid piece of experience in the
effect of the Wilson tariff of August, 1894, until the Dingley bill
passed into operation in July, 1897. Now if we take the export
trade of Bradford goods to the United States a little before the
passing of the Wilson bill, and carry the record on until after the
passing of the Dingley bill, we shall have some idea of what
happened to American textile industries as a result of these
measures. The first one may be called the poison, and the second
bill the antidote ;

Exports from Bradford Consular District to U.S.A.

1893 $9,909,105

1894 8,21 5,234

1895 27,745,096

1896 13,682,839

1897 24,471,035

1898 6,724,543

1899 8,812,136

The exports continued to decline for some years, the lowest
point being touched in 1901 when the total exports amounted to
$5,589,656, after which they gradually increased, reaching
$17,993,478 in 1905, but the depression in 1908 caused a fall
again to $11,363,335. In 1909 the trade recovered so well that
the exports increased to $20,486,047. It is of interest to note,
however, that in 1895 manufactured goods amounted to $22,-
951,038, while the total of raw and semi-manufactured goods was
$4,794,057 ; whereas in 1909 the manufactured goods only

474 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

amounted to $8,710,104 (in which was included $1,006,367 of
machinery for textile manufacturing purposes), and the raw and
semi-manufactured goods to $11,775,942 (of which yarns of
various kinds amounted to a large figure).

The effect of the Wilson bill was felt by nearly every trade in
England whose goods were practically prohibited by the McKinley
tariff. They found a ready sale in the United States and were
active competitors with the articles made in America. With the
appearance of the McKinley tariff British woolen manufacturers
found their trade fell off to such an extent that they could no
longer do business with the United States. They found in many
cases that with the duty of 50 per cent ad valorem on woolens
and a specific duty of 44 cents per pound their chances of work-
ing their mills at a profit were practically at an end. Many
English manufacturers removed their plants and started works
in America. The result of all this was that an opportunity was
given to the American manufacturers to gain experience in the
making of certain woolen goods — an experience they never had
previously, from which they took every advantage.

The American mills were as well equipped as the rival mills
in Yorkshire. At the time of the Wilson bill there were firms
in America who could make woolen goods as well as English
manufacturers. It was at bottom a question of labor. In Eng-
land, the weavers, who were mostly women, received a wage of
from 8 to 14 shillings a week, — very rarely 14 shillings; while
in America the weavers were paid from $7 to $10 a week,
and the majority of these workers were males. During the
McKinley regime there was a vast amount of textile machinery
standing idle in England, and many firms had gone out of busi-
ness. All this was altered when the Wilson bill came in. Then
the conditions were reversed. The English mills were busy and
the American ones were idle. One American manufacturer put
the position in a sentence when he said : " Under the Wilson bill
you English people come in here and sell us out. You work for
nothing ; we don't, and that is the difference." In January,
1895, the turnover in worsted goods from the Bradford district
realized the sum of £360,000, which was a very large increase,
compared with the returns for the month previous to the Wilson
bill taking effect.

If there are any sweeping reductions such as are contemplated
in the Underwood bill, it is difficult to see how American manu-
facturers can run their mills at sufficient profit to pay any interest
on capital expenditure. It cannot be denied that American
makers have the best machinery they can get, and in that respect
they are on an equality with those on this side of the water ; but
when the large difference in the cost of labor is considered, as
well as the fact that they have not had many years to acquire the
same experience as their Bradford rivals, then the result of such
a bill can hardly fail to be disastrous to the American manufac-

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ]\nSCELLANY. 475

turer and to the American operative. The two great obstacles to
any large reduction of duties on woolens are, first, the serious
difference in the cost of labor ; and second, the cost of mills.
English makers are quite willing to run their mills at little if any
profit for a time, simply to keep their plant employed.

No one who knows the conditions thoroughly could consci-
entiously advise any reduction, while the proposals of the Under-
wood bill are simply suicidal.

WORLD LABOR STATISTICS. — HOURS OF LABOR.

The following statistics have been compiled from a " London
Times " summary, transmitted by Consul General John L. Grif-
fiths, London, of the Fourth Abstract of Foreign Labor Statistics,
published by the British Government, covering the hours of labor,
trade unions, and trade disputes in the several countries :

HOURS OF LABOR.

The following statement shows the hours of labor in the
various countries :

Austria. — The legal maximum is 11 hours a day, but is ex-
ceeded, under permit, by a large number of workpeople, partic-
ularly in the textile trades. In mines the predominant hours are
8 to 9 and in factories 9 to 10 and 10 to 11.

Belgium. — In the metal industries nearly half the men work
from 9 to 10 hours and the great majority of the rest 10 to 11.

Denmark. — The predominant daily hours in the various in-
dustries are 10 and 9 to 10. The shortest hours are worked by
printers, of whom 90 per cent have less than 10 hours and 36
per cent less than 9. Only 9 per cent in all the trades work more
than 10 hours.

Finland. — Only 15 per cent of all the handicrafts work less
than 60 hours per week, 56J per cent over 72 hours, 18J per cent
over 84 hours, and some work up to 120 hours, or 17 hours a day
for seven days. This, however, includes intervals for meals and,
perhaps, for rest.

Germany. — In Prussian coal mines the usual underground
shift, not counting descent and ascent, is 8 hours, but in Upper
Silesia it is 9.7 for hewers and rammers and 10.1 for other work-
men ; for surface workmen the hours range from 9.8 in State
mines to 11.9 at Aix-la-Chapelle. On Prussian State railways
the predominant hours are 8 to 9 and 9 to 10 ; more than half the
locomotive men and plate layers have less than 9 hours, but 54

476 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

per cent of pointsmen and signalmen are on for 10 to 12. In the
building trades weekly hours are as follows in the principal
cities : Dresden, 52 ; Munich and several other cities, 60 ; Berlin,
53J; Leipzig, 53; Bremen, 54; Cologne, Dusseldorf, Elberfeld,
and Barmen, 56 ; elsewhere, chiefly 59 and 60. The predominant
hours per day for factory workers are 9 to 10.

Italy. — In factories and workshops more than three-fourths of
the employees work 10 to 11 hours.

Netherlands. — The predom.inant hours in most industries are
10 to 11 per day.

Switzerland. — In factories the predominant hours are 9^ to
10, and on Saturdays 1 hour less.

United States. — In the large cities the average week in certain
selected occupations ranges from 44 hours in the building trades
in New York, Chicago, St. Louis, and San Francisco, to 60 hours
for laborers in Philadelphia, Cleveland, Pittsburg, and Detroit.
For the whole country : building, 46.3 to 54.5 ; engineering, 53.4
to 58.4 ; textiles, 55.6 to 60.4 ; clothing, 51.3 to 56.2 ; paper, 56
and 59 ; printing, 50.7 to 5'6 ; wood, 55 to 58.

The usual age of beginning work in the several countries is as
follows : Hungary and Spain (factories), 10 ; Russia, Norway,
Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, Belgium, France, Ital}' (not in
factories), Bulgaria, Luxemburg, Portugal, Roumania, and in 11
American States, 12; Germany, 13; Switzerland and Austria
(factories), and in 36 American States, 14 ; South Dakota, 15. A
distinction is made in several countries between ordinary occu-
pations and mines ; admission to the latter is at a later age.

TEXTILE TRAINING.

THE OLD SCHOOL AND THE NEW AS PRESENTED BY
PROFESSOR BEAUMONT.

Professob Roberts Beaumont, in the " Yorkshire Observer,"
has an important paper on textile training and the old and the
new view of it. Professor Beaumont says :

As late as forty years ago textile instruction did not form an
integral part of the national scheme of education. The machine
period of manufacturing was well established, and the manual
methods of spinning and weaving had been entirely superseded.
Machinery, which had for some years passed the initial inventive
stage, was undergoing rapid improvement in construction and
productive power. Processes of manufacture were being inves-
tigated, and the industry as a whole was in an active state of

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MlbCELLANY. 477

transition and development, following a period of commercial
prosperity and growth. Signs and evidences were manifest of
the need of a more precise and fuller training for manufacturers,
managers and textile workers than was afforded by mill practice
if continued success were to be achieved. Yet textile education,
other than schooling in the mill, had not been deemed possible
or desirable. The mill system was understood. It was known
to produce workers, and men of observation to whom, underlying
the compound and complex routine of manufacture, theories,
principles and laws of causes and effects appealed.

Experience confirmed and established methods of work with-
out formulating a scheme of knowledge which might be investi-
gated and expanded. The worker who, by his individual effort
and ingenuity, became a manufacturer, a mill owner, had no
conception of or province in extending textile knowledge except
in the development of local needs and interests, or in securing
commercial success. The growth of the factory he controlletl
was the goal which defined his horizon ; yet he was a hard
thinker, exercised in the solution of knotty problems and tech-
nical difficulties, and a true investigator. Technical education
and literature had not been available to him in any part of his
career. Wherefore should he be concerned as to the methods by
which his successors climbed into prosperity or possessed knowl-
edge of and skill in manufacturing ? Ways and means had not
changed ; they only required to be properly utilized.

TRADE SECRETS.

It is now difficult to appreciate the prevalent notion which
obtained that one's industrial welfare could only be conserved by
concealing or dislocating information. The origin of trickery
systems of determining the diameter or counts of a yarn, of the
'• setting " or gauge of a fabric, and of the use of identical terms
with varying equivalents, may leniently be regarded as remnants
of ingenious practice, but they are also suggestive of competency
in the art of dust-throwing.

Let a manager or foreman operative migrate from one Border
town to another, from Huddersfield to Bradford or Leeds, from
the West Riding to the West of England, or in some instances
change his position for one of a similar character in a neigh-
boring concern, and he would experience much brain searching
in discerning the working system. It was nobody's business to
instruct or enlighten him, and when, after irritating labor and
expenditure of time, he discovered the key to the problem,
wherein was the inducement to him to pass it forward ? Knowl-
edge of mill routine and production was not intended by such
workers to be disseminated. The several branches of manufac-
ture were so many labyrinths of mystery, and the learner was to
travel and dissect them unaided and unguided. Few men who
passed tlirough this hard school of training were likely to

478 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

relinquish one iota of the knowledge they had won; or, in the
case of the foreman and the overlookers, the knowledge they
had purchased, in the form of practical tips of information,
from their more skilful confreres. To covet the knowledge of
the latter amounted to the covetousness of his pocket and his
livelihood.

It is well the days of the apprentice learner, with the warped
and cramped system by which they were characterized, have been
supplanted by educational methods which stimulate investigation
of technical and scientific problems affecting the development of
the textile industries.

Formerly, it was a question as to which class of individual
workers technological education was to be devised chiefly to
apply, and also which class was it destined chiefly to benefit.
Certain rosy anticipations as to results were only partially real-
ized. The optimistic were persuaded that a panacea had been
discovered which would produce trade development and alleviate
the acuteness of foreign competition. Educate the worker, the
foreman and the manager, and the manufacturer, and British
commercial supremacy would be maintained. The issue was only
in a measure of the nature supposed ; a scheme of textile learn-
ing was evolved which has increased the efficiency of those
engaged in manufacturing pursuits, and thereby contributed to
industrial strength and progress.

THE PIONEERS.

The establishment of day, evening and manufacturers' classes
in 1875 indicate the scope which the promoters of technological
instruction designed it to comprise ; the whole gamut of textile
workers was to be considered. The operative, the son of the
manager or manufacturer, and the manufacturer and merchant
were provided for in the scheme initiated — a scheme which bore
evidence of the foresight, organizing faculty, and genius for
teaching of its originator, the late Professor John Beaumont.

For a time the subjects taught were mainly designing, coloring,
fabric structure, with occasional lectures on manufacturing, and
in the case of the class for business men, the consideration and
discussion of specific difficulties and problems. The curricula
of study have been widened, and the tendency is to find the
solution of various textile problems in the application of science
to the industry. Chemistry relates to the processes of scouring,
finishing, and conditioning; engineering to the methods of mill
driving and running, and to the construction and efficiency of the
machinery employed ; and training in accountancy, commerce,
and economics is desirable for those qualifying to assume the
control of the working of the factory. Following a general
training in the principles of woven manufacture, the nature of
the education must be adapted and specialized to the goal to be

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 479

attained. Educationally textile students may be grouped into
three distinctive classes : (1) the operative exercising a degree of
initiative and control ; (2) the initiator or originator of modified
or new manufactured results ; and (3) the qualified expert
responsible for direction and factory control.

No educational authority questions the policy of offering
technical instruction to all classes of workers. Every type of
industrial operative is entitled to share in the facilities for self-
improvement and culture which educational machinery provides.

Men occupying menial positions in the factory, after pursuing
a course of evening training covering three to five sessions,
enduring the trial and self-sacrifice imposed by mental effort and
study subsequent to ten hours' manual employment, have happily
attained positions of responsibility and direction. The weft
man has become a designer, the pattern weaver a manager, the
general help a departmental organizer. But the province of the
technical school is not purely or even mainly to impart practical
training. "Hewers of wood and drawers of water'' are not to
be rendered by education better qualified for this work, but to
exercise their brain faculty and apply it to the improvement of
a higher phase of industrial effort. A carder, a spinner, a miller,
a cutter, a presser, is not produced in the school, but in the mill.
Craft training is not a leading feature of textile education.
Manipulative practice should be well taught, but made subser-
vient to the demonstration of principles and supplementary to
theory. Organized groups of experiments are as essential to
successful technological as to scientific teaching. The educa-
tional value of such experimental studies is of first importance,
but they are not effective if viewed as the practical qualification
of the comber, the weaver, or the finisher. Each must acquire
his competency by practice in the mill. Apparently this would
imply that the practical worker of the overlooker type may find
no assistance in technical training. On the contrary, he would
possess a fuller acquaintance with the principles influencing the
production of good work, and be better able to trace the causes
of results. Union here as in other concerns is strength. Com-
bining theoretical knowledge with practical aptitude, the over-
looker is additionally qualified to exercise a keener and more
intelligent interest in the operations he supervises. Moreover,
the training in the school has another objective — to raise the
studious and the thoughtful in the scale of life

To accomplish valuable original work in some part of textile
manufacturing demands natural and trained talent. The rank
and file of learners are capable of mastering principles and of
acquiring a satisfactory acquaintance with the ])rocesses and
routine of manufacture, and with the various branches of woven
design, but only a smaller percentage become qualified to initiate
new lines of work. The term is used with its lesser significance
or as suggestive of the capacity of applying knowledge to

480 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

produce, by the adaptation or modification of known principles,
new manufactured results. An originator is adept in the utiliza-
tion of the learning obtained in the ordinary scientific and tech-
nical schooling.

INITIATIVE ABILITY.

In textile manufacturing there is a wide field for the exercise
of trained initiative ability. The departments in which chemical
and engineering knowledge are essential need not at the present
be considered, but chiefly those in which textile capabilities are
requisite to industrial change and development, namely, yarn
manufacture, designing and weaving, and the routine of finishing.

It follows that the more complete the training, the better the
qualification for original work. This must comprise instruction
in the nature and effects of the processes of yarn manufacture
and an experimental knowledge of the construction, setting,
running, and the adaptation of machinery to a special character
of yarn product. A course of studies should also be pursued in
the qualities and properties of fibers and yarns, and of their
suitability and application for textile purposes. Experiments
in blending for yarns of different qualities or colors with a view
to economical manufacture further equip the student for a posi-
tion of responsibility.

Designing and weaving afford apparent scope for the exercise
and display of originality. Well-trained students who have
acquired a knowledge of the elements of design and coloring in
the various builds of fabrics, to which has been added a course
of original studies in the loom on special stjdes and makes of
cloth, should not experience difficulty in giving satisfaction in the
pattern origination department of the mill. Guidance and direc-
tion are for a period required ; but granted these are afforded, the
qualified student will render a good account of himself, and give
evidence of possessing an educational equipment not wanting in
resource and versatility.

A well-trained textile designer should, moreover, be acquainted
with the nature and quality finish m.ay give to the fabric ; with
the routine of finishing, the character and object of the finishing
processes, and with the construction of finishing machinery.
The student educated for the dyeing and finishing branch of the
industry requires to make an extended study of the chemical
science and to enter deeply into the chemistry and theory of the
processes of scouring, milling, and the treatment of fabrics for
specific kinds of finish, e.g., waterproofing, permanent luster,
velvet pile, and embossing. The experimental phase of tlie study
should be varied and comprehensive. Each style of finish, and
methods of modifying the routine for producing new or different
results, applied to woolen, worsted and union or milled fabrics,
must be understood.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 481

MANAGEMENT AND CONTROL.

In the organization of the courses of textile experiments in
an institute in which the complete series of processes of manu-
facture are theoretically and practically taught from the raw
fiber to the finished product, there should be an educational
objective not possible in factory operations nor in the school
established for commercial running. The entire course of experi-
mental tuition should be designed to be in the nature of investi-
gation or research, and to produce with mill practice originators
and men of inventive capacity.

The training for this responsible position requires to be the
most complete of any connected with textile technology. Of
course it is recognized that a manager cannot be practically au
fait with the technicalities of each section of manufacturing.
Such are the organization of a modern factory and the lines on
which it is conducted and developed that experts are necessary
to the successful control of the actual working of the several
departments. Take, for example, tlie initial work of wool scour-
ing. In a large concern this is conducted under the direction of
a chemical expert possessing some textile training and experience
in judging the quality and character of raw materials, in addition
to a knowledge of the relative efficiency of the various plants of
machinery employed. He is held responsible to the management
for all connected with the wool cleansing processes, the recovery
of by-products, and the satisfactory running of the section.
Similarly for each group of operations in the mill — an expert
should be requisitioned capable of making tests and carrying out
investigations as well as supervising the ordinary commercial
results.

The student whose metier is " control " ought to qualify thor-
oughly in the complete routine of one of the branches — yarn
manufacture, designing and weaving, and finishing — into which
the modern worsted industry is divided. In a woolen concern a
wider training is needed — one comprising tuition in the entire
series of processes from the fiber to the fabric. It is more
important to possess soundness of general knowledge than to be
competent of initiating and following in detail any definite
section of industrial activity. An intelligent grip of and insight
into the object and result of the several processes, combined
with capacity for gauging the pulse of any department of the
mill, are essential.

Supplementing education on these lines with experience and
practice in each part of the factory, providing the student has
the faculty for organization and direction, a fuller apprehension
is attained than by apprenticeship in the mill, gleaning knowledge
haphazardly, and without an adequate appreciation of its quality
and bearing. Technical training weighs in this relation and is
of distinct utility and value.

482 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

There are many interesting phases of students' life and charac-
ter which might be delineated. There is the cosmopolitan aspect.
Accustomed to lecture and instruct students emanating from the
centers of textile industry in England, Scotland, Ireland, and
Wales, the colonies of New Zealand, Australia, Canada, and
India ; Germany, France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland, Spain,
Portugal, Finland, and Russia, the United States of America,
China, and Japan, I have learned to appreciate and sought to
encourage progressive study in whatever nationality of stxident
it was discovered. The view has been expressed that this educa-
tional policy is contributing to the advance and strength of our
future industrial and commercial competitors.

The British student does not suffer, but advantages, from the
opportunity of meeting in his college career, on the same educa-
tional ground and in friendly relation, those who may a few years
hence be the principals of competing foreign firms. The average
student could not approve of the exercise of protective educa-
tional measures which would eliminate the facilities for this
preliminary skirmish on the threshold of industrial life. He is
not slow to learn the lessons they dictate, or to determine the
mental strength and capacity for work and study of his future
commercial competitors. Fair-mindedness assures him that the
student — British, colonial, or foreign — who captures knowledge
and applies its golden rules will achieve success — and he bravely
hopes to participate therein.

BETTER WOOL PACKING.

SIGNIFICANT ACTION OF THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS
AT ROUBAIX AGAINST VEGETABLE FIBERS.

Yorkshire manufacturers have now won the active coopera-
tion in their fight against vegetable fibers in wool of many of
the principal manufacturers of the continent. The International
Congress, held last month at Roubaix, devoted much thought to
this subject. Mr. Thomas Whiteley, a manufacturer of Bradford
and a member of the Executive Committee, presented before this
Congress a valuable paper in which he said that for many years
the manufacturer had been burdened by heavier responsibilities
as regards putting goods upon the market in a perfect condition.
In the ordinary course, after being woven and burled, pieces were
sent by him to be dyed and finished, in the expectation that when
returned they would be ready for his customer. In most cases
he found that a further tedious and expensive process had to be
undertaken unless he wished to have a reputation for sending

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 483

out imperfect goods. In all pieces which were dyed black or any
dark shade there appeared threads which had not taken the dye.
These must be carefully eliminated by experienced burlers, often
at the expense of the cloth, should it be a fine one or have a fine
face. In many cases refinishing must be resorted to in order to
repair the damage unavoidably incurred during this process.
The cost of this, which was often considerable, was not always
the worst phase of this matter. Delay in delivery or shipment
often caused even greater trouble. In any case it was annoying
that goods which were badly wanted by customers should be
kept back for days and sometimes weeks on account of a fault
for which the manufacturer was not responsible. Nothing short
of the best will do for the public. When a customer bought a
plain cloth he did not expect it to be turned into a " fancy "
through objects appearing in it that had no relation to the
character of the make or finish. From a calculation it was
estimated that the cost of taking out these threads amounted to
quite ten times the sum that it would cost to provide a better
wool pack.

From the fact that all these threads consisted of hemp or jute
it followed clearly that so far as such foreign matter could be
kept out of the wool to that extent would the remedy be effective.
One thing was certain, viz., that until the present cheap Calcutta
pack was abandoned there could not be much improvement.
From what he had seen himself when in Australia, and from the
method of packing in vogue in that country, any loose fibrous
matter was certain to become mixed in the wool in such a
way that it was next to impossible afterwards to eliminate it.
Messrs. Dalgety were good enough to cut open a few bales in the
presence of Mr. Ayrton and himself, and the outer wool was seen
to be simply impregnated with this jute fiber. That would
account for the finer threads, and those were the most insidious,
as in sorting it was impossible to extract them. As to pieces of
string or larger threads due to careless opening of bales, he
would leave experts to determine where the responsibility rested.
So far the cost had fallen almost entirely upon the manufacturer,
though that was unjust. He was sure that if the International
Committee pursued its labors in the spirit it had shown hitherto
success would eventually crown their labors. He appealed to
the Congress to strengthen the hands of those who were seeking
to put an end to this great evil.

484 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

At the conclusion of Mr. Whiteley's address, Mr. J. E. Fawcett
of Bradford offered a resolution as the evident sense of the
meeting, as follows :

In the belief that a large proportion of the growers of wool
do not sufficiently realize the danger of vegetable matter getting
into wool from the inferior bags used, it is recommended that
spinners and buyers of wool should declare that they will only
buy" such wools as are packed in proper bags. This to take effect
from the season 1912-13.

Translated into French, with some slight modifications, the
resolution was unanimously adopted.

The "Yorkshire Observer," in giving a history of the move-
ment, says :

The movement which led to the Congress at Roubaix dates
back to 1905, and the credit of initiating it belongs to the
Bradford Chamber of Commerce and to Mr. J. E. Fawcett, chair-
man of the Wool Section, in particular. For years the Cliamber
had made representations to woolgrowers in different parts
of the world without any appreciable effect, and as the evil
had been growing in intensity something like a crisis arose.
Merchants, dyers, manufacturers, spinners, topmakers were all
blaming one another, for there is no question that the evil had
become a scandal, and manufacturers' burling costs were increas-
ing alarmingly while lawyers were getting fat out of "claims."
So a special committee of the Chamber took up the question very
thoroughly and in the autumn of 1907 invited a number of
colonial woolgrowers, who were over in this country, as well as
some of the most influential London brokers, to come down to
Bradford and see what all the pother was about. This was an
epoch-making visit. These gentlemen were taken to Holden's,
they had bales from Australia and bales from New Zealand
opened before their eyes and they were made to see with the
help of magnifying glasses the thousands of loose jute fibers,
rubbed off the tare in transit, still sticking to the wool. Then
they were taken to the Bradford Dyers' Association, where a
choice assortment of dyed and undyed pieces were shown them,
and then the painfully slow and costly process of burling was
explained to them. Tlie effect of the demonstration was great.
It was brought home to these gentlemen that here was a heavy
tax laid upon a great industry solely by reason of the indiffer-
ence or ignorance and thoughtlessness of those who packed and
handled the wool before it reached the consumer.

Without delay, an important committee, representative of all
interests dealing with imported wool, was got together in London.
It comprised woolgrowers in Australia and New Zealand, the

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 485

London Selling Brokers, the Colonial Wool Merchants' Associa-
tion, the Bradford topmakers, spinners, and manufacturers, repre-
sentatives from Germany and France and of the Woolbuyers'
Association. Mr. Fawcett was at once appointed chairman and
Mr. Harry Dawson has acted as convener and secretary. The
first meeting was held at Dalgety's ofhces in London, in October,
1907, and since then this important international body has had a
good many meetings and has adopted and issued several reports
which have been published and discussed in the colonies as well
as in this country and on the Continent.

Now that all branches of the trade are alive to the gravity of
the evil, there is no doubt that self-interest will bring about a
preference in the long run for wools in approved packs. But
when a buyer is valuing in the London or Melbourne warehouses
he is valuing wool, not tares. If he were to put a farthing on
because of improved tares that would mean 7s. 6d. a bale. His
firm might get the wool, but assuredly he would get tlie sack !
Moreover, who could convince the grower that this farthing had
been paid for the pack alone, and not because the wool was better
than his neighbor's ? There is no trade under the sun in which
the seller expects the buyer to pay for the wrapper in which he
receives his goods. Of course in the long run he does pay, and
he takes care that he gets his own back from his customer. And
it is precisely because this must be so that the woolbuyer has a
right to ask that wool shall be suitably packed. If he had
insisted on this right from the beginning this trouble never
would have arisen. The first colonial wool was imported in
casks; it might even now come in tin-lined packing-cases, and
yet the cost of packing would be small as compared with the
value of the wool itself.

SOME INCIDENTS IN EARLY AUSTRALIAN WOOL

HISTORY.

From the day when Abel brought of the first of his flock for
an offering to the Lord, and later when Jacob, by shrewd selec-
tion, became a pioneer in the long line of those who have given
us the splendid wool-bearing, food-producing sheep of the present
day, down the ages to Jason and the Golden Fleece, to David
the Shepherd King, and to the shepherds in the fields of Bethle-
hem, along through all its history the sheep industry has been
full of idyllic stories and romantic incidents. Although John
Randolph of Roanoke would " go a mile out of his way to kick
a sheep," a picture with sheep in it attracts attention, and stories
of the shepherds of Normandy and of the Scottish Highlands,

486 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

as well as the tales of the sheep herders of our own Wild West,
or of Australian rangers, are always full of interest. One inci-
dent, small in itself and not generally known, is well told in a
recent number of the " Canadian Journal of Fabrics," in the
article which follows :

THE ROMANCE OF WOOL.

The romance of wool, in its transition from the raw material
to the finest texture of cloth, has inspired many a pen, but there
is nothing in the woolen trade so romantic as the record of how
wool was first exported from Australia into Yorkshire. It was
in the middle of the eighteenth century that a family of Mars-
dens migrated from Low florsforth to Farsley, and in one of the
old-fashioned houses still standing in Turner's Fold, off Town
Street, was born Samuel Marsden, who served an apprenticeship
as a blacksmith — the anvil on which he worked is still extant
in the district — and in later years became famous as the man
who first introduced Australian wool into England, and laid the
foundation of that vast trade which provides employment for
hundreds of thousands of Avorkers in the West Riding of York-
shire.

Being a lad of exemplary character, young Marsden was taken
in hand by the Elland Society, and was placed at St. John's
College, Cambridge. He was ordained as a deacon in 1793, and
sent as a chaplain to Botany Bay. Returning to England in
1807, he visited his native Farsley, and brought with him a
quantity of wool which had been grown in the convict settle-
ment. He, as a Yorkshireman, had aforetime learned the value
of wool, and it shocked him not a little to find that it was of so
little account in New South Wales as to be used for "bedding"
cattle. Still he wanted to assure himself that the quality of the
wool was good enough for the making of cloth, so he had a
quantity of it packed in barrels and brought to London.

Arriving in Farsley he dined with Mr. William Thompson,
partner in the Quaker firm of Messrs. J. and W. Thompson, of
Low Mills, Horsforth. To Mr. Thompson, Mr. Marsden men-
tioned the fact of his having brought a quantity of wool, and the
arrangement was made that the firm should have it on condition
that they paid the carriage from London, and on manufacturing
it into cloth that they should have a suit made for Mr. Marsden.

This was agreed to, the wool proved well, making a cloth far
superior to all expectations, and Mr. Marsden was so pleased
with the suit made from it that he wore it on an occasion when
he had an audience of King George III. The King admired it
greatly, and expressed a desire to have a coat made from the
same cloth, which was readily granted. His Majesty was so
greatly impressed with the importance of the wool of the colony

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 487

that he gave orders for Mr. Marsden to have selected some of the
best sheep from his merinos at Windsor.

Five Spanish sheep of the King's flock at Windsor were taken
to Australia in 1810, and these became the progenitors of the
present extensive flocks of fine-wooled sheep there. The first
consignment of merino wool from Australia arrived in 1811, and
amounted to 167 pounds, wliich was sold at Garraway's Coffee
House, London, this marking the rise of the now great London
Colonial Wool Sales.

The Rev. Samuel Marsden, truly a most important figure in
the woolen manufacturing history of our country, closed his life
in Sydney in 1838, and there a national monument is erected to
his memory. In his remembrance, too, as a native of the locality,
a beautiful stained-glass window has been installed in the Farsley
Parish Church, and near the wall of the house in which he was
born stands a monument recording the fact.

Samuel Marsden is the same reverend gentleman of whom it is
told in Bonsack's " Romance of the Wool Trade " that his " sermon
at the Isle of Wight gave rise to the beautiful story by Leigh
Richmond, of the ' Dairyman's Daughter.' "

He was the second clergyman in New South Wales and added
to his other duties those of a magistrate, in which capacity his
severity to offenders engendered personal hatred. He was a born
trader, was greatly interested in agriculture and took an active
interest in the affairs of the Colony. Bonsack naively says "his
eager pursuit of wealth robbed him of some reverence in the eyes
of Sydney worshippers." " In sheep he was unquestionably one
of the best authorities, and in the improvement of the colonial
stock he was inferior only to Captain Macarthur himself."

He was no idle dreamer, but sought at first hands the informa-
tion needed to further his projects, and eventually he established
a breed of sheep, bearing his own name, which maintained a high
reputation for many years.

Some of his experiences as narrated by Mr. Bonsack are given
herewith in full :

His stock enterprise led him to open up, in 1803, a corre-
spondence with the early and constant friend of Australia, Sir
Joseph Banks,* because, as he truly told the worthy philosopher,
of " your known and ardent wish to promote the good of this
colony."

As Mr. Fleming was returning to England with a collection of
plants gathered in New Holland, the clergyman wrote : " I have

* Sir Joseph Banks accompanied Captain Cook on his voyage of discovery in 1770 when
the Australian continent was added to the British crown.

488 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

requested him to make sucli a collection as will benefit the settle-
ment of fruits, seeds, &c. I have been more than nine years in
this service, during which period I have paid every attention to
agriculture." Then he mentions his need of a couple of good
English rams, and asks the gentleman's kind help to select such
for him, and have them shipped to Port Jackson.

He had learned Sir Joseph's interest in the merino, and of his
undertaking the care of King George III.'s Spanish sheep. To
none other could he write with more satisfaction. In his letter
he referred to rams brought out by Major Johnson and Captain
Kent, but these were regarded as of little value, from bad
selection.

Two years later he expressed to this gentleman his wish for
rams of Leicester and Lincoln breeds, remarking that already he
possessed Spanish, South Down, and Teeswater. Forwarding a
sketch of one of his New South Wales bred rams, he proudly
said : " My attention has been very much turned to improve our
flocks."

In his celebrated report, addressed to Governor King, August
11, 1804, forwarded to the Colonial Office, Mr. Marsden entered
into particulars of his own part in sheep culture. His flock at
that time amounted to no less than 1,200. Of his collection of
wool specimens, with some of the hair from the Colonial, Cape,
and Bengal animals, Mr. Arthur Young, of the English Board of
Agriculture, formed a high opinion; and in a communication in
March, 1805, that distinguished farming authority made a curious
suggestion, of interest at this later period.

"I think," said he, "New South Wales bids fair for putting
down the Spanish flocks in England, provided fleeces can be
pressed, like trusses of hay, without injury, an experiment I do
not know has yet been tried."

Mr, Marsden's report has the record of one of his experiments.

" About eight years ago," wrote he in 1804, " I began to pur-
chase, when opportunity offered, a few sheep from the different
ships which visited the ports. They came either from the Cape
or India. Their fleeces were in general hair. About six years
ago I obtained one male and one female Spanish sheep. The male
was put to the above hairy ewes. In the first produce there was
a wonderful improvement of the fleece, but the sheep were not so
large and healthy as I expected, many of them dying when about
a year old. I endeavored to find out the cause of this mortality,
being equally anxious to promote a hardy breed of sheep as well
as to improve the fleece.

" At this time I fed the whole of my sheep in the woodlands.
The grass was often very long and coarse, and also wet either
with the dews or rain, as the sun could not dry the ground, from
the thickness of the timber. It occurred to me that the sheep
feeding through this long wet grass, in which they were almost
covered, was partly the cause of the mortality among them. At

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 489

this time nearly the whole flock appeared sickly, but the produce
of the Spanish was much worse than the other common sheep.
From this circumstance I inferred that they were more tender
and delicate.

" I had now about a hundred acres of land cleared from timber,
and under different crops, and was determined when the crops
came off to let the ground lie fallow for the sheep to feed upon,
especially in wet weather and heavy dews, hoping this would
restore the flock to health and strength. My expectation was
verified, as the flock immediately recovered. From this time,
which was in the year 1800, to this period, the flock have been
rapidly improving in fleece and weight of carcase."

Coming on a visit to England, he had the honor to be presented
with five merinos from the king's flock.

As was natural to suppose, the active magistrate and clergy-
man was the one to whom new-comers from the old country went
for advice, especially as to the investment of capital. Mr.
Rusden, in his history, recalls the incident of Mr, Marsden's
impetuous speech, " Put everything into four feet." Assuredly
he was a remarkable man. When he founded the New Zealand
Mission, he trusted his life to the cannibal chief whose tribe had
killed and eaten a crew of Englishmen. The like energy, prompti-
tude, and self-reliance characterized his efforts in the work of
pastoral progress in Australia.

Mr. Marsden was a contemporary of Captain John A. Macarthur
and shares with him the honor of the establishment of the sheep
industry in Australia, which from his early exportation of the
small quantity of wool of doubtful quality has developed into an
industry furnishing 30 per cent of the world's annual supply of
wool of all kinds and a very much larger percentage of its fiine
wools which are used for clothing purposes.

Second and third in quantity of production come the River
Plate region and our own country, the latter wools being all
about on a par in quality with those of Australia, as also are the
fine wools from Uruguay and Argentina.

It is estimated that in 1910 the total world's wool production
equalled nearly 3,000,000,000 pounds, of which

Australasia produced . . . 833,612,000 pounds.
Argentina and Uruguay . . 544,425,000 "
United States 321,363,000 "

It is an interesting fact that the efforts of Chancellor Living-
ston, Colonel David Humphreys, Seth Adams, and others to
introduce the Spanish merino into the United States and of

490 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

others to domesticate them in the La Plata region were being
made at very near the same period of time. In 1794 Don Manuel
Jose de Labarden imported 10 rams and 20 ewes from Spain into
what was then known as the Banda Oriental, now Uruguay,
though with indifferent success, for no further trace of these sheep
appears in the history of the industry of that country. Chan-
cellor Livingston secured two pairs of merino sheep in France
and shipped them to the United States, where they arrived in
the spring of 1802.

The importations of Colonel Humphreys and Mr. Adams were
about the same time, and Mr. William Foster of Boston sent
some merino sheep from France to Boston in 1793 which, owing
to ignorance of their value, were consigned to the table instead
of the fields.

The worth of the Spanish merino both for its fleece and as the
foundation for improved flocks was just beginning to dawn upon
the imagination, and it is to the foresight and energy of the men
mentioned and to others of their ilk who followed where they
led that the world owes its present supply of one of its most
valuable raw materials.

COTTON-GROWING IN ABYSSINIA.
(From a report of Vice-Consul General Guy R. Love, Adis Alaba, July, 1911.)

The first mention of cotton being found in Abyssinia is in
the writings of the Roman poet Virgil, who mentioned that the
land of Ethiopia was white with the vegetable wool. A Roman
general also reported, after an expedition into Ethiopia, that the
people were clothed in a quite white material made from vege-
table wool. It is said that when the Portuguese monks came
here in the fourteenth century they cultivated considerable
quantities of cotton in the northern part of the country.

Cotton is cultivated in most all parts of Abyssinia, but mostly
at an altitude of three thousand to four thousand feet, the best
being raised in the region around Lake Tsana, the thread of
which is said to be of extra long, white, and silky texture.

The crop is very irregular, being grown by the native farmers
in small patches of a few acres each ; no large plantations exist-
ing. The ground between the rows is also utilized for growing
berbera, etc. This is planted in February and ripens after the

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 491

" small " rainy season in April. The cotton stalk is then cut to
the ground, and corn is planted and harvested, at the end of the
long rainy season, in September or October. At this time the
cotton has again grown about a foot high and is ready for harvest
between December and February, when in some parts of the
country the plant is four to five feet high, in others much less.
Tree cotton is unknown in Abyssinia, but the existing plant is
said to be very healthy everywhere. The native farmers replant
every five years, but the crop is said by foreign promoters of
concessions here to be very small after the first two or three
years.

The seeds have never been utilized here for the manufacture
of cottonseed oil, but are fed to sheep, goats, etc.

The methods employed by the natives in cultivating, spinning,
and weaving are most primitive and have probably not been
improved upon in hundreds of years. The schama, an outer
garment of local manufacture, is preferred by the Abyssinians
to the imported article, most other clothing being made of Amer-
ican and European cotton sheetings, which have been extensively
imported for about thirty years.

Egyptian cotton has been successfully cultivated in small
quantities at Abouramalka, La Garba, Urso, and Morocco. Other
extensive concessions have recently been granted on the proposed
railway line, where the climate and soil are said to be well
adapted to cotton cultivation. Irrigation is necessary to most of
the land in that region, as the altitude is lower and the rainfall
is very light.

No extensive attempts have been made at cotton cultivation
here, owing to the difficulties and expense of transportation and
the remoteness of the numerous concessions from the railway
terminus at Dire Dawa. The foreign concessionaires here, how-
ever, predict a profitable cotton industry upon the betterment of
these conditions.

492 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

COMPARATrVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF
WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL FOR THE TWELVE
MONTHS ENDING JUNE 30, 1910 and 1911.

Gross Imports.

Articles and Countries.

Wool, Hair op the Camel, Goat,
Alpaca, etc., and Manufactures
op:

Unmanupacturkd—
Class 1 — Clothing ( dutiable) —
Imported from —

United Kingdom

Belgium

Argentina

Uruguay

Australia and Tasmania . . .
Other countries

Total

Class 2 — Combing (dutiable) —
Imported from—

United Kingdom

Canada

South America

Other countries

Total

Class 3 — Carpet (dutiable) —
Imported from —
United Kingdom . . ; . ,

Kussia in Europe

Other Europe

Argentina

Chinese Empire

Turkey in Asia

East Indies

Other countries

Total

Total unmanufactured

Manufactures op—
Carpets and carpeting (duti-
able)-
Imported from —

United Kingdom

Turkey in Europe

Asia

Other countries

Total

Quantities for Twelve

Months ending

June 30.

1910.

Pounds.

3.5,647,097
2,259,610

23,586,578
7,152,724

34,574,678
8,372,291

111,592,978

Pounds.

14,628,205
41,891
13,432,005
572,955
9,119,624
2,310,165

Values for Twelve

Months ending

June 30.

$8,629,515
488,272
5,462,687
1,779,341
8,861,538
2,009,699

40,104,845 $27,231,052

$3,458,004

9,077

2,552,594

123,665

2,387,365

613,616

$9,044,321

26,907,556

1,607,927

2,504,980

593,772

31,814,235

7,153,236
1,071,759
3,069,443
1,162,030

12,456,468

$6,746,157
425,430
628,932
130,626

$7,931,145

$1,865,475
261,475
730,078
423,655

$3,280,683

28,419,718
15,280,453
13,337,106
3,674,644
38,061,762
9,262,975
6,396,012
6,288,349

120,721,019

21,026,462
12,167,410
8,898,228
3,780,755
28,089,334
4,880,512
2,043,405
4,200,222

B4,070,954

2,272,610

1,853,058

411,575

4,463,445

1,462,644

825,899

698,464

85,086,328

$16,058,647

263,928,232 137,647,641 $51,220,844 $23,228,005

$3,100,852

1,715,994

1,187,742

455,888

3,070,472

647,433

243,789

480,831

$10,903,001

Sq. Yards.

150,308

637,399

337,594

80,681

1,205,982

Sq. Yards.

138,766

330,488

441,085

93,422

1,003,741

$371,696

2,807,473

1,101,532

311,020

$4,591,721

$393,131

1,674,764

1,368,940

370,970

$3,807,805

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS OF WOOL. 493

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF

WOOL, Etc.

Gross Imports. — Continued.

Articles and Countries.

Quantities for Twelve

Months ending

June SO.

Values for Twelve

Months ending

June 30.

1910.

1911.

I910.

1911.

Clothing, ready-made, and other

Pounds.

$1,813,542

$2,274,756

Cloths— (dutiable)—
Imported from —

United Kingdom

3,432,399
633,101

1,718,263
449,027

2,904,863
517,616

1,013,456
291,444.

$3,754,961

624,656

1,585,997

460,050

$3,258,426
560,642
994,671

Other co'-intries

328,768

Total

6,232,790

4,727,279

$6,425,864

$5,142,507

Dress Goods, Women's and
Children's — (dutialile) —
Imported from —

United Kingdom

France

Sq. Yards.

26,054,902

12,968,267

9,167,081

164,884

Sg. Yards.

16,793,766

8,906,749

4,591,737

122,091

$4,275,048

2,870,374

2,187,680

41,037

$3,122,355

1,943,121

l,164,l'i2

32,i«68

Other countries

Total

48,845,084

30,414,843

$9,374,140

$6,262,566

All other (dutiable)

$1,327,108

$1,082,157

$23,532,175

$18,569,791

494 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF
WOOL, Etc.— Concludea.

Exports of Wool and Manufactures of.
Foreign.

IDLO.

lOll.

1910.

1911.

Quantities.

Values.

Wool, Hair of the Camel, Goat,

Alpaca, etc., and MANurACXUREs

of:

Unmanufactured—

Class 1— Clothing (dutiable) lbs .

Class 2 — Combing " " .

Class 3— Carpet " " .

2,939,323
421,698
646,932

6,728,093

419,166

1,058,440

$687,521
91,811
79,858

$1,602,614
94,958
149,754

Total unmanufactured ....

4,007,953

8,205,699

$8.i9,190

$1,847,326

Manufactures of—

Carpets and carpeting, sq. yds..

13,052

5,695

$67,894

23,412
26,606

29,307
42,063

$19,207

11,569
32,435

53,422
45,490

Clothing, ready made, and other

Cloths, pounds, dutiable

Dress goods, women's and chil-
dren's, sq. yds., dutiable . . .

31,598
151,337

36,717
277,165

$189,282

$162,123

Domestic.

Wool, and Manufactures of :

Wearing apparel

All other

Total

$1,555,184
811,099

$2,369,283

,450,475
842,998

$2,293,473

QUARTEKLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 495

QUARTEHLY REPORT OF THE BOSTOX WOOL MARKET
FOR APRIL, MAY AND JUNE, 1911.

Domestic Wools. -(George W. Benedict.)

Ohio, Pennsylvania,
Virginia.

(WASHED.)

XX and above . . .

I Blood

AND West

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine . . .
r Blood . . .

1911.

April; May.

Fine Delaine

Michigan, Wisconsin, New York,

ETC.
(WASHED.)

Fine

4 Blood

i "

28 S 29

27 g 28

31 @ 32

30 @ 31

19 (3 20

26 @ 27

25 @ 26

24 @ 25

23 @ 24

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine ....
i Blood . . .

i "

Fine Delaine

Kentucky and Indiana.
(unwashed.)
i Blood

Jrald

Missouri, Iowa, and Illinois,
(unwashed.)
i Blood

Braid

Texas.

(8c0urhd basis.)
12 raontlis, fine, and fine medium . .

6 to 8 months, fine

12 months, medium

6 to 8 months, medium

Fall, flue and fine medium

" medium

California,
(scoured basis.)

Free, 12 months

" 6 to 8 months

Fall, free

" defective

Territory Wool: Montana, Wyo-
ming, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, etc.

(SCOURED BASIS.)

Staple, fine and fine medium . . . .

" medium

Clothing, fine and fine medium . . .

" medium

New Mexico. (Spring.)

(SCOURED BASIS.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

New Mexico. (Fall.)

(SCOURED BASIS.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

Q-EOROIA AND SOUTHERN.

Unwashed ,

29 @ 30

29 ® 30

28 @ 29

29 @ 30

18 fl 19
25 (g 26
24 g 25
23 ig 24
23 a 234

25 @ 26
23 ® 24
21 @ 22

23 Q 24
23 g 234
20 O 21

47 O 48
44 @ 45
44 3 46
40 ® 41
40 ® 41
38 @ 40

47 (3 48
43 @ 44
38 @ 40
30 a 33

52 3 53

48 (3 50

45 @ 47

41 0 43

47 @ 48

42 i@ 43

n^ @ 34

30 @ 32

38 (§ 40
33 (3 35

27 @ 29
25 @ 27

21 @ 22

27 (3 28

26 ^ 27

30 @ 31

29 @ 30

29 8 30

29 3 30

18 g 19

24 3 25

23 @ 24

22 © 23

2243 234

28 3 29

27 Q 28

27 a 28

28 (3 29

17 3 18

23 (B 24

23 3 234

2249 23

22 (8 23

23 g 24
22 S 23
20 a 21

22 e 23
22 3 224
19 @ 20

45 3 47
42 3 43
42 3 43
38 3 40
38 a 40
36 3 38

46 @ 47

42 % 43

37 @ 88

30 ® 32

51 (S S2

47 3 49
45 3 48
40 a 42

45 @ 47
41 @ 42
32 (3 33
30 @ 32

37 @ 38
32 @ 34
26 @ 27
24 i3 25

20 @ 21

June.

27 (3 28

26 0 27

30 3 31

29 (8 30

29 ® 30

29 3 30

18 a 19

24 Q 26

23 Q 24

22 0 23

22 i3 23

lOlO.

28 a 29
27 3 28

27 a 28

28 3 29

17 g 18
23 (3 24
23 a 234
2243 23
22 3 23

23 0 24

22 3 23
20 a 21

22 8 23

22 e 224

19 3 20

45 0 47
42 O 43
42 @ 43
38 a 40
38 0 40
36 0 38

45 a 47
42 e 43
37 a 38
30 a 32

51 a 52

47 a 48

45 a 46

40 ,3 42

45 a 47

41 a 42

31 a 33

30 a 32

37 a 38
32 a 34

26 a 27
24 a 25

20 a 21

June.

31 a 32
30 a 31
33 a 34
33 a 34

32 8 33

33 3 34

21 a 22
28 a 29
27 a 28
26 a 27
24 a 25

32 a 33

32 a 33
31 a 32
31 a 32

20 a 21
27 6 28
27 O 28
25 a 26
23 a 24

26 8 28

24 a 25
20 a 21

60 a 62
54 a 55
53 a 56
48 a 60
48 a 50
43 a 45

54 a 56
51 a 52
44 a 45
33 a 36

60 a 61

55 a 66

55 0 57

50 a 51

54 a 55
45 0 47

36 a 37
34 a 35

44 a 45

38 a 40
33 a 34
30 3 31

24 e 25

496 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Domestic Wool.

Boston, June 30, 1911.

Owing to the persistent tariff agitation in Congress, the wool market during
the past three months has been passing through a period of great perplexity,
both as to present and prospective values. With these adverse conditions it
is not strange that prices have declined to a point which probably largely
discounts any legislation which may take place ; but as long as the uncer-
tainty exists no definite basis of values can be established.

Most manufacturers have received limited orders for goods and have
bought the raw material with corresponding caution, supplying only their
immediate needs from time to time.

In the goods market the situation is very "spotted," some mills running
practically on full time, but the majority are operating only a small percent-
age of their capacity.

As the consumption of wool the past year has been very largely from the
domestic clip, the stock of old territory wools to be carried over into the
new season is not abnormally large, and from a statistical standpoint of both
manufactured goods and wool the market ought to be strong.

Notwithstanding the unsatisfactory conditions here, some dealers are willing
to operate freely in the country and the new clip is now moving rapidly at
prices fully on a par with values being obtained here, and in some sections
they are apparently on a speculative basis.

Geoege W. Benedict.

Pdllkd Wools. (Scoured basis.) (W. A. Blanchard.)

Extra, and Fine A

A Buper

B Super

C Super

Pine Combing . .
Medium Combing
Low Combing . .
California, Extra .

April.

48 @ 58
44 (§ 47
38 @42
32 @ 35
48 @ 50
44 @46
39|g42
48 S 52

May.

48 3 56
44® 47
38 @ 42
32 (3 35
48 @60
44 @ 46
40 @42
48 @ 52

June.

48 @ 56
45 ig 48
40 @43
32 @ 35

48 @ 50
44 ig 46
40 3 42
48 @ 52

lOlO.

June.

57 & 65
52 3 55
45 t48
33 & 38
56 ® 60
50 & 54
45 ® 48

58 © 62

Pullep Wool.
Business for the three months shows a further curtailment in volume
and decline in values from the preceding quarter. A partial rally in prices
for medium grades was noted in June, owing to reduced production and a
slightly increased demand for A and B supers. Low wools — C supers — have
maintained a uniform value on the level of East India wools and have been
particularly active. Buying, generally, has been for immediate requirements,
and there has been an entire absence of speculative business. Pullers have
met the market in every instance, as there has been nothing in the goods
situation, present or prospective, that would warrant holding for better prices.

W. A. Blanchard.

QUARTERLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 497

Foreign Wools. (Madger & Avert.)

Anstraltan Combing :

Choice

Good

Average

Australian Clothing:

Choice

Good

Average

Sydney and Queensland :

Good Clothing

Good Combing

Australian Crossbred :

Choice

Average

Australian Lambs :

Choice

Good

Good Defective

Cape oi Good Hope :

Choice

Average

Montevideo :

Choice

Average

Crossbred, Choice

Gnglish Wools :

Sussex Fleece

Shropshire Hogs

Yorkshire Hogs

Irish Selected Fleece ....
Carpet Wools :

Scotch Highland, White . .

Bast India, 1st White Joria .

East India, White Kandahar

Donskoi, Washed, White .

Aleppo, White

China Ball, White

" " No. 1, Open . .

" " No. 2, Open . .

1911.

April.

42
37
33

41
36
34

37
37

39
33

42
39
35

35
32
36

40
36
36

22
29
26
31
31
22
19
13

@43
©38
@ 35

@43
3 38
ig 36

(g 39
3 38

(3 40
3 36

ig 45
3 40
3 36

3 35
@33

3 36
3 33
3 39

3 42

3 41
3 38
3 38

3 24
8 30
3 27
3 32
e 33
@23
@21
® 14

May.

42 3 43

37 3 38

33 3 35

41 3 43
36 3 38

34 3 36

38 3 40
36 3 38

39 3 40

33 3 36

42 @ 45

39 @ 40

35 3 36

34 @ 35

32 @ 33

35 3 36

33 3 34

36 3 39

41 @ 42

40 3 41
36 3 38
36 3 38

22 @24

31 3 32
26 8 27

32 3 33
31 3 34
22 @23
19 3 21
13 3 14

June.

42 3 43

37 3 38

33 3 35

41 3 43
36 3 38

34 3 36

38 §40
36 @ 89

39 3 40

33 3 36

42 @45

39 3 40

35 3 36

34 3 35

32 3 33

35 Q36

33 3 34

36 @ 39

41 0 42

40 3 41
36 3 38
36 3 38

22 e 23

30 3 31

26 3 27

32 3 33

32 3 34

22 3 23

19 3 21

13 3 1-i

19 lO.

June.

40 3 42
39 3 40
37 3 38

0 43
3 39

37 0 38

40 0 41

39 0 40

38 3 40

34 0 36

42 0 46

40 0 42

35 0 3S

25 0 37

32 0 33

35 0 37
32 0 33
37 0 39

43 3 44
42 3 43
37 0 38

36 3 37

20 0 21

30 3 32
25 3 26
32 3 34

31 0 32
20 0 22
19 3 21
13 O 14

Boston, July 15, 1911.
Foreign wools have suffered from the influence of Congressional discussion
of the duties on wool, and manufacturers have only bought to supply their
immediate wants, and withdrawals from bonded stores have been in smallest
quantities. Domestic wools being lower priced have sufficed to a great
extent for manufacturers' wants. Except for cheaper classes of goods, which
have consumed considerable East India and similar wools, crossbreds have
only been in occasional request. Some English wools have been used but
they did not as a rule come on the markets of the United States. A better
market for foreign wool is not looked for until the tariff and other matters
are finally disposed of by Congress.

Cit^-iy4^-C,.^^^<^ ^^^-^C-"^^^

BULLETIN

latioiml 3issori:itiou of Mool Manufacturers

A QUAETERLY MAGAZINE
Devoted to the Interests of the National Wool Industry.

Vol. XLI.] BOSTON, DECEMBER, 1911. [No. IV.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW

WITH ESTIMATE OF DOMESTIC WOOL CLIP OF 1911
AND OTHER STATISTICAL TABLES.

In the pages which follow we present for the twenty-third
consecutive year our annual estimate of the domestic wool product
based upon the number of sheep fit for shearing April 1, 1911,
together with numerous tables relating to sheep in various coun-
tries, the wool product, and the manufactures of wool and their
importation. We have followed our accustomed lines in gather-
ing information, and we desire to acknowledge our indebted-
ness for valuable assistance to sheepmen and others who have
responded to our inquiries with helpful answers. We have no
purpose to serve except to secure the most accurate information
possible under prevailing conditions ; and in this effort we have
given due consideration to the views of the best informed wool
growers, wool buyers, and dealers, and to the reports of officials
in States where sheep are assessed for taxation.

The returns of the number of sheep in the country April 15,
1910, as ascertained by the United States Census Bureau, have
been of great assistance in verifying and correcting our own
returns. The Census report shows about two and one-half million
fewer sheep in the country April 15, 1910, than our estimate for
April 1 of the same year gave. In some States the number,
according to the Census report, exceeded our estimate, and in

500 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

others the reverse was the case. The principal differences
appear in New York, Pennsylvania, Idaho, Utah, and New
Mexico, all of which report a smaller number than our report
has credited them with having. On the contrary, Ohio, Missouri,
Virginia, Tennessee, Montana, and Oregon have a larger number.
These changes in the numbers of sheep in various States is
reflected in the modifications of the quantity of wool reported in
these States, in some cases the quantity being increased and in
others reduced. Still further modifications have been made
necessary because of the losses of sheep during the winter,
the increased slaughter and the general feeling of discourage-
ment existing among wool growers, all of which tend to a reduc-
tion of the flocks and a decrease of the product. It must be
remembered that the result of these combinations is not given as
an actual enumeration, but as an estimate based upon the best
information at our command.

Table I., which follows, reproduces the estimate of the National
Association of Wool Manufacturers, of the number of sheep of
shearing age, April 1, 1910, and shows for purposes of compari-
son the United States Census report of the number of wool
producing sheep April 15 of the same year, and the total number
of sheep and lambs in the country at that date.

Like 1910, the year 1911 has been one of severe trial to
American wool growers. This is reflected not only in the
shrunken number of sheep, but in the falling value of the
reduced clip. For all this one general cause accounts — the free
trade agitation due to the supposed exigencies of party politics.
No one familiar with the industry can doubt that but for the
unfortunate special session of Congress the year would have
been a fair one so far as wool growing and wool selling were
concerned. If there had been no special session the cloud of
tariff reduction would have been remote ; it would not have
been imminent. Though clearing for the moment, the cloud is
now imminent again.

The year opened with a waiting wool market, and though the
unexpected strength of the January London sales induced a
slight rise of confidence, the market in America failed to respond
in any important way. Demand for wool continued light. Manu-
facturers were looking for bargains. Carded woolens remained
in vogue, and the demand of the carded woolen mills was a
marked feature of the market. The opening of March found

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 501

domestic sales still small, and stocks of wool accumulating. The
activity of some of the carded woolen machinery did not com-
pensate for the slackness in the worsted trade.

At the London auction sales in March the anomaly was noted
of fine 64's selling on a scoured basis, landed here, of 83 and 85
cents, which would not bring so high a price as that in Boston, or
indeed any figure in reason near it. The advance of spring
found domestic wool well-nigh on a free-trade basis compared
with the cost of competing foreign wool. For example, it was
figured that fine staple territory wool at 65 cents scoured was
actually below the parity of any competing wool that could be
imported. Quarter-blood domestic fleece at 30 cents was prac-
tically on a par with New Zealand wool of similar grade. These
conditions have not been steadily maintained, but in a general
way it is true that through the abnormal year now ending, Boston,
New York, and Philadelphia were among the cheapest wool
markets in the world.

In April so much machinery was idle and there was such
meager demand for wool that holders weakened and prices again
broke. Wools bought on United States account in Australia were
being stopped in London, where they were disposed of at an
advantageous figure. It was the prevalent belief in the wool
market in the spring that no wool reduction bill could possibly
pass the Senate. As the special Congressional session drew on
there was increased nervousness, reflected in wavering values of
nearly all domestic wools. The new clip came forward at a very
unfavorable period. Many of the purchases that were made
were clearly speculative. Trade in foreign wools was almost
dead, both because the demand of the mills was inconsiderable
and because competing domestic wools could be had at lower
prices. When the "■ composite " Underwood-La Follette bill
finally passed the Senate and was agreed to in conference, the
faith of the wool growers was fixed in the President, and that
confidence was promptly justified.

Soon after the disturbing but fruitless session of Congress
ended, there came an undeniable improvement in the wool situa-
tion. Sales in the Eastern markets increased, in response to fair
orders for goods from merchants who were convinced that many
months must elapse before any tariff reductions could be effected.

Gradually through the autumn more and more machinery was
put into operation. But the mills moved cautiously, buying wool

502 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

almost wholly for assured requirements. The total volume
of business was still disappointing. The worst of the depres-
sion was temporarily over, but the market remained quiet from
week to week. But after the harassing summer months even
this quiet business was cause for gratitude. The opening of
winter found from 60 to 80 per cent of the productive woolen
and worsted machinery of the country in active operation.

Wool prices gradually strengthened under the improved
demand from the mills. Such was the situation as the year drew
near its end and the report of the Tariff Board was awaited.
Both wool growers and wool manufacturers had responded to the
inquiries of the Board with the fullest and most precise informa-
tion at their command — believing that they owed this to the
Government and that the more thoroughly the real truth about
the industry was understood the less hazard would there be of
reckless and hostile legislation.

The year had given a vivid demonstration of the close inter-
dependence of the two branches of the industry. No change
had been accomplished in the duties on raw wool. These stood
exactly as they had throughout the Dingley and Aldrich-Payne
tariffs. Yet, the wool growers of the country were not realizing
the protection which the law bestowed ; their wool was selling
throughout most of the year at prices very little above the ruling
free trade rates of similar wools in Europe. This did not mean
that the wool protective duties were a fraud and a delusion, as
certain foes of the national economic policy have made haste to
argue to American wool growers. What it did mean was that
even the highest of duties on the raw materials are totally
ineffective unless conditions are such as to enable American mills
to consume that wool and operate their machinery.

There is no export market for American wools. They cannot
compete with the cheaply-grown product of South America, South
Africa, Australasia, and the Orient. These American wools
must be bought and used by American manufacturers if they are
to be used at all. A duty of a dollar a pound would be of no
benefit to the wool growers of the United States if general trade
depression or inadequate protection on the finished fabrics would
not permit American mills to run. This important economic
truth seems to have been forgotten by some public men from the
upper part of the Mississippi Valley, who have been urging a
legislative policy that would leave the protection on raw wool

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 503

practically unchanged and make the entire reduction in tariff
rates at the expense of manufacturers. The conditions in the
wool market of 1911 ought to be sufficient to enlighten these
statesmen as to the inevitable result of such a sectional expe-
dient.

REPORTS FROM WOOL GROWING STATES.

]N"ature throughout the year has been kindlier to wool growing
than have men. The winter of 1910-1911 in the Rocky Moun-
tain States was by no means so severe as the previous winter.
Sheep came out in the spring generally in better condition, and
the same thing was true of the important sheep-raising Middle
States. The situation in Wyoming for the year is thus clearly
and authoritatively summed up by Senator Warren :

The winter of 1910-1911 was very favorable ; the weather at
shearing time was good ; fleeces were sound and of good length,
and capable of producing more scoured wool than usual.

The number of sheep in the State has greatly decreased within
the year, for the follovving reasons :

(a.) Because of the hard winter of 1909-1910 in which many
sheep died and large amounts of money had to be expended for
grain and hay to bring the balance through.

(b.) Because the mating season was in extremely bad weather,
and that with what followed gave but a poor number of lambs in
the spring of 1910.

(c.) Because of loss of sheep, low price of wool, and expen-
sive care of sheep in winter, many flockmasters were obliged to
make heavy shipments to meet their financial obligations.

(d.) Because the 1910 summer was extremely dry and many
found themselves in the fall without necessary grazing for winter.

(e.) Because, notwithstanding the good winter of 1910-1911
and a strong and prolific lambing season, the following drought
through the spring and summer of 1911, the low price of wool, and
the discouragement of flockmasters owing to the continued agita-
tion about wool tariff and low prices for wool, have caused flock-
masters to still further reduce, many going out of the business
entirely in order to meet their obligations at the banks and get
out of what they believe is going to be a losing business. Prob-
ably the decrease in flocks has carried the number down to a
figure not exceeding three and one-half millions in Wyoming.

A State officer of California says :

There has been a considerable decrease in the number of sheep
during the past year, occasioned possibly through market condi-
tions ; as well as increase of land values on which these sheep

504 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

were formevly run, considerable of such land having been devel-
oped for farming purposes of late. This applies particularly to
sections in the San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys, and the
coast section of this State.

A State officer of Utah writes :

The wool crop was cleaner this year than for several years
past, the staple was normal and the fleece a trifle lighter. . . .
Generally speaking, the effect of the winter weather and weather
about shearing time was satisfactory. From the first of April to
the middle of May there was little rain and few storms of any
kind. There has been a decrease in the number of sheep in our
State to the extent of about 10 per cent. Restricting the number
of sheep upon the national forests has militated against the wool
industry in this State to a large extent ; otherwise, the present
conditions and the future prospects for the industry are very
satisfactory.

Another informed correspondent in Utah says :

Sheep are in fair condition, with prospects for a good winter
season at this time. The agitation of the tariff question is hurt-
ing the business of wool growing very much. We hope in this
State that the present tariff will be allowed to remain as it now is.

A merchant in Wyoming writes :

The sheep business has been a losing game for the past two
years, and this year people in the business have been unloading
their holdings as fast as they could get cars to ship them to the
different markets in the East. Many men and companies that
were in strong financial condition two years ago are now on the
verge of bankruptcy, and some of them have completely failed
and their creditors are selling off their holdings.

One of the officers of the Oregon Wool Growers Association
says :

There was very little fall range last year and so late that the
gro\ind feed did not get started until the cold freezing weather
set in ; consequently the grass was very short. The winter was
open, and the sheep wore out ranges badly on account of short
grass, and although there was very little snow and moisture much
feeding was done. This tended to have a bad effect on flocks and
fleeces, and I estimate the Oregon fleeces were hardly up to the
standard. The number of sheep are slightly increased within
the State ; on account of extremely dull market many of the
sheepmen are holding over for higher and better prices. Flocks
were in fairly good condition at shearing time and have summered
better than usual ; we have had abundance of summer feed. On

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 505

account of the low price of wool there is a tendency on the part
of many breeders to change from the fine wool to the coarse wool
breeds, crossing a coarse wool buck with a fine wool merino ewe,
thus getting what we call a " cross breed." The future prospects
of the industry are not very encouraging, but it is hoped that as
soon as Congress adjusts the tariff the sheep will be as high, or
higher, than ever before.

A Montana correspondent says :

The winter season 1910-1911 was very favorable, and the
shearing and lambing weather was very nice. The northwestern
group of States is using less fine wool bucks, and is going in for
Cotswold, Lincoln, and other coarse breeds, and this brings down
the average weight of fleece and shrinkage. Farmers are taking
up the range and sheep have been shipped to market regardless
of price and the sheepman lias gone out of business by the score.
In two years Montana, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington are 25
per cent short of sheep. Thousands of ewes are held over dry.

A correspondent from New Mexico says :

Had a dry winter, but good spring at shearing. Forest reserves
and settlements taking up range — range growing short each year.
The breeds here are to merino. Future sheep business does not
look promising in New Mexico. Low price for wool and mutton
and short range. People are closing up the business and going
into other business that is more steady and promising.

Another New Mexico correspondent says :

The effect of the Avinter on fleeces was unfavorable as there
was a scarcity of water, and sheep became poor on account of the
distance they had to be driven to water. The weather, however,
was more favorable in the spring months and at shearing time.
We should think that this year's increase in lambs has fully
made up for losses and shipments made during fall of last and
the course of this year. Sheep are considerably bred up in our
localities, Rambouillet being the preferred breed.

A Colorado correspondent says :

Sheep wintered unusually well in Colorado the past winter.
Prospects are not good for the coming winter, as grass is short
and water scarce on the ranges. There is no material change in
the number of sheep in this State, but with wool selling at present
prices many of our wool growers will be forced out of business
within one or two years. The large number of sheep and lambs
which are offered for sale has caused the price of sheep to decline
from 30 to 40 per cent in the past twelve months. Colorado
cannot grow wool profitably at present prices.

506 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OP WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

A correspondent in Minnesota says :

Sheep have increased in Minnesota, because of the necessity
of stock on farms in the northwest. Low prices of sheep and
wool are now beginning to have a demoralizing influence, though
it is recognized by the thinkers that this cannot be of long dura-
tion.

A State officer of Iowa writes :

Farmers are taking more interest in sheep raising, and the
general condition of flocks at shearing season and during the
winter was good. The general tendency is to improve the grade
of sheep by crossing with better grades. The future prospects
for the industry in Iowa seem good, unless the laws are so
changed as to make the sheep industry unprofitable.

A St. Louis merchant writes :

The wool clip in this section has been in good condition, larger
than last year I would say, and domestic wools are now moving
out of this market rapidly, so that by January 1st or sooner these
wools will be scarce. Colorado wools have been heavy and Idaho
wools offered here are light and desirable, while Utah is just
about the same as last year — not much to brag about in any way.
A good deal of Texas has come here this year, and, as a whole, has
been in good condition and has sold fairly well, although some
lots hang on here, owing to defect in the clips or high price
asked.

A wool merchant in Michigan says :

The decrease in the number of sheep is largely attributed to
the increase in the dairy interests in our State, the farmers
believing it more profitable than sheep raising. The conditions
were favorable during early fall and winter, pasturage being
good and rough feeds and grain plentiful. Spring was a little
late, putting off shearing, permitting the fleeces to have over a
year's growth. The quality is very good indeed this year. We
look for a continued falling off of the number of sheep shorn
next spring, owing to the high cost of grain and hay and the
decline in value of sheep and lambs. The situation does not
encourage enlarging the industry.

An officer of a sheep growing association in Michigan says :

Low prices for both wool and mutton, and poor prospects for
another year, are putting many out of business, and nearly all
are reducing the size of flocks. Too much political agitation.
Some tendency toward use of mutton breeds, owing to low wool
prices.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 507

A Louisville merchant says :

It seems as if last winter had a very good effect on the sheep,
as the wool this season was very good. We believe the number
of sheep in our State has increased some. The sheep breeders
in this State are breeding up, it seems, and they are producing a
better grade of wool.

Merchants of West Virginia write :

The low price of wool and the tariff agitation have also alarmed
farmers, and the sheep that are being bred are bred in the
medium directions, as the farmers figure as much for their lambs
as for the wool. We should judge at this time that the clip of
1912 should be exceedingly well grown, as the sheep that farmers
kept are naturally the best ones.

An expert authority in Pennsylvania says :

As to the future I believe that there will be more crossing
with the mutton breeds, but there is no marked tendency in that
direction at present. The tendency is rather to reduce flocks,
and the other change will be made as a sort of readjustment.

A correspondent in Ohio says :

We do not see a great change in the average weight of fleeces
this year, but if there is any change at all we think the majority
of the wools received here are a little lighter in weight than they
were last year.

508 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table I. — Number of Wool Producing Sheep as Reported by the
United States Census April 15, 1910. Compared with the Estimate
OF the National Association of Wool Manufacturers April 1, 1910.

States and
Terbitokies.

Estimate
of Nat'l
Associa-
tion.

United States Census.

Wool

Producing

Sheep,

April 1,

1910.

Wool

Producing

Sheep.

Ewes
(number).

Rams

and

Wethers

(number).

Lambs
and Un-
classified
(number).

Total
Sheep

and

Lambs

(number).

210,000

70,000

180,000

35,000

7,500

35,1)00

825,000

50,0U0

1,050,000

7,000

130,000

600,000

800,000

2,600,000

1,700,000

900,000

700,000

900,000

375,000

800,000

860,000

149,934

31,201

84,360

22,672

4,206

14,043

605,655

16,593

637,369

4,415

126,251

564,378

776,894

2,892,272

1,545,241

812,427

681,484

628,539

452,043

769,917

1,114,216

143,738

29,075

78,99o

20,062

3,952

12,781

668,414

15,539

473,193

3,924

119,806

496,623

719,591

2,178,544

1,433,263

742,576

686,487

588,628

417,626

676,687

1,012,543

6,196

2,126

6.364

1,785

254

1,262

37,241

1,064

164,176

491

6,445

67,755

54,343

697,693

111,978

69,851

74,997

39,911

• 34,417

93,230

101,673

66,600

12,571

34,191

10,822

2,583

8,375

323,892

13,853

245,483

3,391

110,886

341,715

686,070

1,030,818

761,235

524,540

401,362

301,244

185,508

375,632

693,822

206,434

New Hampshire . . .

Vermont

Massachusetts

Rhode Island

Connecticut

New York

New Jersey

Pennsylvania

Delaware

Maryland

West Virginia ....

Kentucky

Ohio

Michigan

Indiana

Illinois

Wisconsin .....
Minnesota

43,772

118,551

32,669

6,789

22,418

929,547

30,446

882,852

7,806

237,137

906,093

1,360,004

3,907,065

2,306,476

1,336,967

1,062,846

929,783

637,561

1,145,549

Missouri

1,808,038

12,834,500

11,914,110

10,322,048

412,606

120,316
21,844

101,239
55,044
75,340

105,315
97,923
78,976

428,229

1,572,242

6,024,493

17,918,783

Virginia

North Carolina ....
South Carolina ....

Georgia

Florida

Alabama

Mississippi

Louisiana

Arkansas

Tennessee

365,000
204,000
50,000
225,000
115,000
160,000
160,000
156,000
200,000
291,000

437,988
139,884

28,024
154,442

96,902
111,183
156,506
140,242

97,282
470,478

25,382
19,249
5,426
46,474
30,568
27,060
45,518
37,828
16,958
40,320

365,564
74,612
10,166
39,876
28,019
40,514
43,452
42,466
49,256

325,514

803,552
214.176
37,434
187,589
113,631
142,914
194,286
178,217
144,190
794,063

1,916,000

1.832,931

1,496,831

293,782

1,019,438

2,810,051

Kansas

Nebraska

South Dakota

North Dakota

Montana

Wyoming

Idaho

Washington

Oregon

California

Nevada

Utah

175,000

250,000

625,000

270,000

4,800,000

4,650,000

2,600,000

450,000

1,750,000

1,900,000

850,000

2,100,000

1,400,000

825,000

3,200,000

1,325,000

80,000

206,498

245,195

602,505

239,114

4,978,963

4,676,206

2,160,029

308,862

1,982,552

1,440,532

810,973

1,670,890

1,313,048

843,383

2,931,201

1,364,554

48,766

160,681

160,955

405,308

178,973

3,050,239

3,413,975

1,598,734

206,160

1,394,472

1,075,313

602,780

1,340,696

1,022,834

537,262

1,847,908

861,371

40,561

35,323

56,317

86,876

62,617

1,602,658

792,921

269,800

60,960

491,982

256,201

125,906

330,296

178,923

115,883

424,100

404,391

7,189

76,468

76,224

118,544

57,764

719,742

988,063

1,092,000
204,401
810,325
902,611
375,203
156,290
222,430
408,218

1,014,277
602,201

14,532

272,472

293,496

610,728

289,354

5,372,639

5,194,969

2,950,534

471,521

2,696,779

2,234,125

1,103,889

1,827,180

Colorado

Arizona

New Mexico

Texas

1,424,187
1,061,363
3,286,285
1,767,963

Oklahoma and Indian
Territory

62,282

27,250,000

25,723,271

17,888,121

5,282,342

7,739,293

30,909,766

Totals

41,999,500

39,470,312

29,707,000

7,148,366

14,783,224

51,638,690

Table II. Wool Prodcot of the Ukited States. — 1911.

BUtee aod Territories.

Maine

New Hampshire

Vermont

Massachusetts .
Rhode Island . . .

Connecticut

New Vork

New Jersey

Pennsylvania . - .

Delaware

Maryland

West Virginia . .

Kentucky

Ohio

Michigan

Indiana

Illinois

WiBConsin ....

Minnesota

Iowa

Missouri

Virginia

North Carolina
South Carolina

Georgia

Florida

Alabama

Mississippi
Louisiana . . ■ ■
Arkansas . -
Tennessee . . . . .

Kansas

Nebraska

South Dakota

North Dakota . .

.Montana

Wyoming

Idaho

Washington. .

Oregon

California

Nevada

Utah

Colorado .
Arizona ...

New Mexico

Texas

Oklahoma and Indian Territory.

10% fine, 90% medium
25% fine, 75% medium
20% '* 80% *'
Medium

33% fine, 67% medium

Medium

60% fine, 40% medium.
.Medium

. 40% r
75%
85%
75%
80%
80%
70%
86%

Fine, fine med., and medium

•I ::

Totals

Pulled Wool .

Total Product, 1911

Sbeep or mieariDg Age,

160,000

33,000

90,000

23,000

6,000

15,000

650.000

I7,00U

660,000

5,000

128,000

600,000

800.000

2,900,000

1,600,000

850.000

700,000

650,000

480,000

900,000

1,150,000

12,396,000

460,000
150,000
30,000
175,000
100,000
120,000
160,000
146,000
100,000
500,000

1,930,000

226,000

260,000

626,000

250,000

4,650,000

4,000,000

2,200,000

400,000

1,800,000

1,700,000

825,000

2.000,000

1,300,000

850,000

3,000,000

1,400.000

60,000

25,485.000

Pounds.
6.00
6.00
6.60
B.25
600
5.60
6.20
6.50
6.50
6.60

7.00
6.76
7.00
6.75
7.00

rounds.

900,000

198,000

.185,000

143,750

30,000

82,600

4,030,000

93,500

4,226,000

27,500

742,400

3,450,000

3,800,000

18,860,000

10,880,000

6,525.000

4,900,000

4,387,600

3,360,000

6,075,000

8,050,000

80,335,150

3.25
4.00
3.70
4.00
4.25

2.025,000
562,600
112,500
700.000
325,000
390.000
640,000
536,500
400,000

2,16i,500

7,854,000

6.75
7.25
7.60
8.50
7.50
9.26
8.60
7.00
7.00
6.75
7.00
7.00
6.75
6 75

1,687,600
1,825,000
3,543.750
1,812,600
34,876,000
34,000,000
16,.')00,00n
3,700.000
15.300,000
11,900,000
5,776,000
13,500,000
9,100,000
6,960,000
20,250,000
9,460,000
390,000

189,358,7.50

Pounds.

622,000

102,960

292,500

83,376

17,400

47,850

2,066,300

49,555

2,197,000

16,126

408.320

1,769,600

2.366,000

9,426,000

5,440,000

2,983,600

2,548,000

2,326,375

1,747,200

3.169,600

4,266,600

41.801,960

1,296,000
326,260
65,260
392.000
196,000
234,000
371,200
316.536
240,000

1,297,600

4.733.735

590,626

601,260
1,417,500

670,625
12,903,750
10,200,000
5,775,000
1,110,000
4,743,000
3,927,000
1,905,750
4.590,000
2,912,000
1,963,600
6,885,000
3,118,600

117,000

Average Value per Scoured PODud, Oct. 1.

63,430,600

1 Value, leil. atstea and Territoriei

9208,800

47,362

128,700

36,018

7,308

20,676

924,885

21,309

1,010,620

6,050

171,494

897,345

1,013,080

4,429,760

2,448,000

1,312.740

1,096.640

930. LiO

698,880

1.358.685

1,663,935

Maine.

New Hampshire.

Vermont.

Massacbusetts.
I Kliode Island.

Connecticut.

New York.

New Jersey.
) Pennsylvania

Delaware.

Maryland.

West Virginia.

Kentucky.

Ohio.
I Michigan.
' Indiana.

Illinois.

Wisconsin.

Minnesota.

Iowa.

Missouri.

S683,200
133,763

26,100
156,800

78,000

93,600
148.480
126,614

96,000
544,950

Virginia.

North Caruiii

South Car.. lit

Georgia.
' Florida.

Alabama.

Mississippi.

Louisiana.
, Arkansas.

Tennessee.

81.967,867 ffS7,r''>7

737.100

348,725
6,968.025
6,304,000
2,887.500

57.7,200
2.466.360
1,649.340

952,876
2,295,000
1,310.400

981.750

3,804,800

1,621,620

52,660

Kansas.

Nebraska.

South Dakota.

North Dakota.

Montana.

Wyoming.

Idaho.

Washington.
I Oregon.
I California.
( Nevada.

Utah.

Colorado-
Arizona.

New Mexico.

Teias.

Oklahoma.

832,053,283 1. /-», v:^/,,,/^

I Total.^i.
Pulled Wool.

! Total Product, 1911.

t.C,-r9r.o'/\

* A.veTage value, unsecured.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 509

A United States Census report, printed elsewhere in the
Bulletin/ shows the wool production for the year 1909-10 to
have been 289,419,977 pounds, exclusive of pulled wools.

THE NUMBER OF SHEEP.

We place the number of sheep fit for shearing as shown in
Table II. at 39,761,000, a decrease of 2,238,500 from 1910, when
the total was set at 41,999,500. This decrease occurs mainly in
the sheep in the far Western States, which in 1910 we credited
with 27,250,000, and now have 25,435,000, a reduction in number
of 1,815,000, which would have been still greater had it not
been for the increase in number reported in certain States
because of the more exact information contained in the United
States Census. In the Southern group of States there was an
apparent increase of 15,000, notwithstanding the fact that the
numbers credited to most of these States show a decrease — a
decrease, however, that is more than offset by the increase in
numbers reported in Virginia and Tennessee, which are from
361,000 and 291,000 to 450,000 and 500,000 respectively. The
Eastern and Middle Western group of States show a decrease of
338,000. This decrease is more apparent than real. There has
been an increase in the number of sheep in Ohio, Missouri, and
Iowa. The reduction in numbers occurs mainly in the States of
New York and Pennsylvania, from which in recent years no
accurate statistics have been available, and these States have
been credited with a larger number of sheep of shearing age than
they appear to have been entitled to.

WOOL PRODUCTION.

Our estimate for the total clip, exclusive of pulled wool, for the
present year is 277,547,900 pounds, a decrease of 3,814,850 pounds
from our last year's estimate. The scoured equivalent is
109,966,195 pounds, a decrease of 2,639,618 pounds from last
year.

The detailed statement, by States, of the estimated number
of wool bearing sheep, weight of fleece with percentage of shrink-
age of the wool as sheared to its equivalent in scoured wool, the
average value per pound for five years and the total value of
this year's clip, including pulled wool, will be found in Table II.
opposite.

' See page 591.

510 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

In this table for convenience the States are arranged, as
in years past, in three groups, the first embracing all those
north of the Ohio River and east of the western boundary of
Missouri, including Kentucky, Maryland, and West Virginia, in
which the fleece wools, fine and medium, are of comparatively
light weight and shrinkage ; the second comprising the southern
States, where only medium wools are grown, except Texas, and
the third comprising all the States west of the Missouri line,
including Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona, where the great bulk
of the fine, fine medium, and medium wools of heavy weight and
shrinkage are produced.

In the first group there are 12,396,000 sheep, equal to 35.7 per
cent of the total flock, which produced 80,335,150 pounds of wool,
equal to 29 per cent of the whole product of 277,547,900 pounds
of wool in the grease, excluding pulled wools.

In the third section are 25,435,000 sheep, or 64 per cent of
the total flock, which produced 189,358,750 pounds of wool, or
68 per cent of the total clip. In scoured condition the wools of
the first group yielded 41,801,960 pounds, or nearly 39 per cent
of the total, while the third group produced 63,430,500 poimds,
or nearly 59 per cent of the whole.

PULLED WOOL.

We increase our estimated production of pulled wool for this
year to 41,000,000 grease pounds, an excess of 1,000,000 pounds
over our total for 1910. This increase is based upon actual
returns from slaughtering centers, and is the natural consequence
of the reduction in flocks on the ranges in the territorial districts.
Although the pelts come to market in a dirtier and heavier con-
dition than last year, greater attention is being paid by the
pullers to brushing the wools, so that it is safe to place the
shrinkage from the brushed to the scoured state at the same
figure as last year, namely, 27 per cent, which makes the scoured
equivalent practically 30,000,000 pounds. This quantity may be
divided as follows :

Fine and fine medium 16,500,000

Medium and coarse 13,500,000

ANNUAL WOOL KEVIEW.

511

These we subdivide in the market grades with average values
for the year :

Extra and fine A

A super

B super

C and low super.
Fine combing . . .
Medium combing
Low combing . . .
Shearlings

4,000,000
8,000,000
6,000,000
1,500,000
5,000,000
3,000,000
2,000,000
500,000

30,000,000

Value per
pound, cents.

Total value.

$2,200,000

3,840,000

2,580,000

450,000

2,650,000

1,410,000

840,000

150,000

Average

47+

§14,120,000

The total wool production of the country, both sheared and
pulled, is, tlierefore, 318,547,900 pounds, or 2,818,850 pounds
less than the estimated product of last year, and is equal to
139,896,195 pounds of scoured wool.

WEIGHT AND SHRINKAGE,

For a series of years the average weight and shrinkage for the
whole country has been as follows :

Average Weight.

Average Shrinkage.

1901

Pouvds.
6.33
6.50
6.25
6.50
6.56
6.66
6.60
6.70
6.80
6.70
6.98

Per cent.
60.6

1902

60.0

1903

60.8

1904

61 6

1905

61.3

1906

61.8

1907

60.6

1908

60.5

1909

60.9

1910

60.0

1911

60.4

The tendency toward heavier fleeces referred to in our last
annual report is still more noticeable at the present time and
carries with it an increase in the average shrinkage. The

512 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

average weight for 1911 is the heaviest, 6.98 pounds, in the
eleven years reported in the table. The shrinkage averages 60.4
per cent.

The winter of 1910 was severe but more open than usual,
and in consequence the fleeces accumulated more dirt and sand
than ordinarily, which increased the grease weight.

VALUE OF THE CLIP.

The value of the clip for the year, the fleece wool being
calculated upon its value in Boston the first of October and the
pulled wool on an average price for the year, is as follows :

Fleece wool $52,451,337

Pulled wool 14,120,000

Total $66,571,337-

which is nearly $6,000,000 less than the corresponding value for
last [year. Dividing these values according to the grouping of
the States it appears that the wools of the first group were worth
$18,430,227, or 35 per cent of the total value. In the third
group the value is $32,053,283, somewhat more than 61 per cent
of the total. Because of an increased number of sheep in cer-
tain States producing the heavier fleeces, the quantity of wool
reported for the middle group of States shows an increase of
440,000 pounds, although the aggregate increase in the number of
sheep in the same section is only 15,000. The wool produced in
this section was 7,854,000 pounds in the grease, which averages
to shrink 39.7 per cent and yields 4,733,735 pounds of clean
wool, valued at $1,967,867.

The next table (No. III.) presents a statement of the produc-
tion of wool for a period of twenty-six years with the annual
increase or decrease, and the one following it (No. IV.) gives
the production for the same period reduced to the scoured
equivalent, as shown in our yearly estimates.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 613

Table III. — Fleece and Polled Wool, Washed and in the Grease.

1888.,

1889.,

1890.,

1891.,

1892.,

1893.,

1894..

1895.,

1896.,

1897.,

1898.,

1899..

1900.,

1901.,

1902.

1903.,

1904.,

1905.

1906.

1907.,

1908.,

1909.,

1910.

1911.

pou

nds

Product.

301
295
309
307
333
348
325
294
272
259
266
272
288
302
316
287
291
295
298
298
311
328
321
318

,876
,779
,474
,401
,018
,538
,210
,296
,474
,153
,720
,191
,636
,602
,341
,450
,783
,488
,715
,294
,138
,110
,362
,547

,121
,479
,856
,507
,405
,138
,712
,726
,708
251
,684
,330
,621
,382
,052
,000
,032
,438
,130
,750
,321
,749
,750
,900

Decrease.

293,829
6,096,642

2,073,349

23,327,426
30,913,986
21,822,018
13,321,457

28,891,032

6,747,999
2,814,800

Increase.

13,699,377

25,606,898
16,519,733

7,567,433

5,470,646

16,445,291

13,865,707
13,838,660

4,3:^3,032

3,705,406

3,426,692

948,176

12,833,571

16,972,428

Table IV. — Scoured Wool, Fleece and Pulled.

1888.,

1889.

1890. ,

1891.

1892.

1893.

1894.

1895.

1896.

1897.

1898.

1899.

1900.

1901.

1902.

1903.

1904.

1905.

1906.

1907.

1908.

1909.

1910.

1911.

pounds

Product.

136,

i;^4,

139,
139,
145,
151,
140,
125,
115,
111.
Ill,
113,
118,
126,
137,
124,
12.S,
126^
129,
130.
135.
142,
141.
139,

591,955
795,350
628,220
326,703
300,318
103,776
29-2,268
718,690
284,579
365,987
661,581
958,468
223,120
814,690
912,085
366,405
935,147
527,121
410,942
.S59,118
360,648
223,785
805,813
896,195

Decrease.

3,964,730
1,796,605

301,517

10,811,508

14,573,578

10,434,111

3,918,592

13,545,680
431,258

417,972
1,809,618

Increase.

4,832,870

5,973,615
6,803,458

295,594

2,296,887

4,264.652

8,591.570

11,097,395

2,591,974
2,883,821
948,176
5,001,530
6,863,137

514 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

VALUE OF THE WOOL PRODUCT FOR ELEVEN YEARS.

The total value of the wool product for the year, estimated on
the scoured price in Boston, October 1, was $66,571,377 for
139,896,195 pounds of wool. Last year 141,805,813 pounds were
valued at $72,489,838. The average value per pound of the fleece
wool was 47.7 cents and 47.5 cents for pulled wool.

1901
1902
1903
1904
1905
1906
1907
1908
1909
1910
1911

Fleece and pulled.
Scoured.

Pounds.
126,814.690
137,912,085
124,366,405
123,935,147
126,527,121
129,410,942
130,359,118
135,360,648
142,223,785
141,805,813
139,896,195

Total value.

§51, 164,709
60,679,127
58,775,373
64,948,959
80,415,514
79,721,383
78,263,165
61,707,516
88,829,746
72,489,838
66,571,337

Value per pound.

Fleece.

Cents.
41.1
45.2
48.8
64.1
65.4
63.8
62.3
46.6
63.6
51
.47.7

Pulled.

Cents.
36.7
39.7
43.4
46.7
57.4
54.3
50.2
41.6
58

51.75
47.5

AVAILABLE SUPPLIES, 1906-1911.

Table V. contains an estimate of the available wool supplies
for the year 1911-12, that is, pending the next clip, exclusive of
imports after October 1 and supplies in manufacturers' hands.
The corresponding figures for a series of years are given for com-
parison. It is based on the Boston Commercial Bulletin's record
of supplies in dealers' hands on January 1 last, the Depart-
ment of Commerce and Labor's figures of imports, and the figures
of the preceding tables.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.
Table V. — Available Scpplies.

515

1906,

1907.

1908.

1909.

1910.

1911.

Pounds.

Wool clip, fleece

and pulled . .

298,915,130

298,294,750

311,138,321

328,110,749

321,362,750

318,547,900

Domestic wool

on hand De-

cember 31 . .

72,461,443

94,402,046

84,556,560

50,556,100

82,841,457

142,575,200

Foreign wool

on hand De-

cember 31 . .

24,414,000

15,169,000

15,188,500

14,015,000

14,481,000

19.946,000

In bond De-

cember 31 . .

56,788,129

40,928,806

52,955,081

37,858,497

76,503,604

52,990,238

Foreign wool im-

ported, Jan-

uary 1 to

July! . . . .

119,597,637

126,600,884

64,275,513

188,125,373

159,922,432

97,435,095

Total . . .

572,176,339

575,395,486

528,113.975

618,660,719

635,111,243

631,494,433

Imports of

wool, July

1 to Oct. 1,

35,331,909

33,750,260

33,205,899

62,814,168

17,807,601

26,527,408

Total to Oct. 1

607,508,248

609,145,746

561,319,874

681,474,887

652,918,844

658,021,841

The gross imports for the three months ending September 30,
1911, were as follows:

1911.

Class I.

Class n.

Class m.

Total.

Julv

Pounds.
1,133,953
1,578,203
524,839

Pounds.

616,383
1,304,722

552,078

Pounds.
5,740,395

Pounds.
7 a.on 731

8,778,473 11,661^398
6,298,491 7,375,408

September

Total

3,236,995

2,473,183

20,817,359

26,527,537

For the corresponding three months of the previous year the
imports were :

Class I.

Class n.

Class m.

Total.

Pounds.
2,255,692

Pounds.
3,286,207

Pounds.
12,265,702

Pounds.
17,807,601

516 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
THE ANNUAL WOOL SUPPLY.

Table VI. shows the quantity of wool retained for consumption
in the United States from 1890 to date. As the wool clip of the
year reaches the market during the governmental fiscal year, the
clip of any year is added to the imports of the fiscal year
beginning July 1, so that the total supply for a series of years
is accurately indicated by this combination, however it may dif-
fer from the available supplies in any one year of the series.

Table VI. — Wool Produced, Imported, Exported, and Retained for

Consumption.

Fiscal
Year.

Total
Imports.

Exports,
Domestic

and
Foreign.

Nbt Imports.

Classes
I. and II.

Class
III.

Production

Retained
for Con-
sumption.

Fine Wool.

Retained Per

for Con- cent of
sumption. Foreign.

Pounds.

Poutids.

Pounds.

1890-91..

129,303,648

2,930,045

36,783,501

89,882,024

309,474,856

435,848,459

345,966,435

10.63

1891-92..

148,670,652

3,210,019

53,350,167

92,312,922

307,101,507

462,562,140

360,249,218

14.81

1892-93..

172,433,838

4,310,495

46,189,082

122,026,119

333,018,405

501,141,748

379,115,629

12.18

1893-94..

55,152,585

6,497,654

7,167,380

42,007,798

348,538,138

397,193,069

355,185,271

2.02

1894-95..

206,081,890

6,622,190

98,388,318

105,402,507

325,210,712

524,722,428

419,319,921

23.46

1895-96..

230,911,473

12,972,217

126,966,355

97,918,882

294,296,726

512,235,982

414,317,100

30.64

1896-97..

350,852,026

8,700,598

235,282,735

112,141,457

272,474,708

614,626,136

502,485,908

46.84

1897-98..

132,790,302

2,625,971

47,480,033

82,810,437

259,1.53,251

389,322,582

306,512,146

15.50

1898-99..

76,736,209

14,095,335

3,349,870

60,947,423

266,720,6841 329,361,558

268,387,135

1.25

1899-1900

155,918,455

7,912,557

44,680,424

105,525,783

272,191,330, 420,197,228

314,671,445

14.20

1900-01..

103,583,505

3,790,067

32,865,844

67,127,159

288,636,6211 388,430,059

321,502,465

10.10

1901-02..

166,576,966

3,227,941

69,315,286

93,842,199

302,502,3821 465,851,407

371,694,390

18.65

1902-03..

177,137,796

3,511,914

54,747,533

119,397,268

316,341,0321 489,966,914

370,569,646

14.63

1903-04..

173,742,834

3,182,803

55,999,545

114,880,236

287,450,000 458,010,031

345,129,795

16.22

1904-05..

249,135,746

2,561,648

134,407,321

112,292,726

291,783,032

538,357,130

426,066,402

31.54

1905-06. .

201,688,668

5,642,859

98,336,137

97,902,153

295,488,438

491,534,247

393,632,094

24.99

1906-07..

203,847,545

3,446,748

91,726,655

108,888,982 298,715,130

499,116,927

390,226,945

23.50

1907-08..

125,980,524

5,626,463 57,846,442

62,690,077

298,294,750

418,648,811

346,141,192

16.71

1908-09..

266,409,304

3,523,975 164,867,536

99,046,169

311,138,321

574,023,660

476,006,877

34.60

1909-10..

263,928,232

4,055,473 139,846,192

120,074,087

328,110,749

587,983,508

467,909,421

29.90

1910-11..

137,647,641

8,205,699 45,414,054

84,027,888

321 ,362,750

450,804,692

366,776,804

12.38

1911-12..

318,547,900

The proportion of fine wools decreased from 29.9 in 1910 to
12.38 per cent in the present year, a reduction attributable to a
great extent to the small importations of Class I wools, resulting
from the stagnant condition of the home wool market. The
total quantity of fine wools retained for consumption, both
foreign and domestic, amounted to 366,776,804 pounds, 101,132,-
617 pounds less than in the preceding year. This total is the
smallest since the year 1903-4, which was practically the same
as in the year 1907-8, when the total retained for consumption
was in the neighborhood of 346,000,000 pounds. This year the

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

517

net imports of Class I and II wools are smaller by 94,432,138
pounds, and are less than one-third of the net imports of these
wools in the preceding year. The net imports of Class III wools
are 36,044,199 pounds less than those of last year and amount to
84,027,888 pounds.

The following table, computed from Table VI., shows the total
supplies for five-year periods, beginning in 1888, the ten years
1888-1897 and 1893-1902, the five-year period, 1903-1907, and
the years 1908, 1909, 1910, and 1911 :

Table VII.

Wool Supply, 1888-1910 — Domestic Production and
Imports less Exports.

Fiscal years ending June 30.

1888-1892. Five years, total.

Annual average

1893-1897. Five years, total.

Annual average

1898-1902. Five years, total.

Annual average

1888-1897. Ten years, total..

Annual average

1893-1902. Ten years, total..

Annual average

1903-1907. Five years, total .

Annual average, five years

1908

1909

1910

1911

All wools.

Pounds.

2,122,407,842
424,481,568

2,549,920,592
509,984,118

1,988,771,621
397,755,324

4,672,328,434
467,282,843

4,538,692,213
453,869,221

2,476,984,249
495,396,850
418,648,811
574,023,651
587,983,028
441,989,842

Fine wools.

Pound*.

1,686,818,840
337,363,768

2,070,423,829
414,084,766

1,582,374,537
316,474,907

3,757,242,669
375,724,267

3,652,798,366
365,279,837

1,925,618,882
385,123,776
346,141,192
476,005,877
467,909,421
366,776,804

SLAUGHTER AND MOVEMENT OF SHEEP.

The total number of sheep killed yearly at four western cen-
ters, Chicago, Kansas City, St. Louis, and Omaha, and total
yearly receipts of sheep at eastern seaboard markets, Boston, New
York, Philadelphia and Baltimore, are reported in the "Cincin-
nati Price Current's Statistical Annual," as follows :

518 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table VIII.

Seaboard Sheep Receipts, and Slaughter at Principal
Western Points.

Calendar Year. •

Western killings.

Seaboard receipts.

Total.

1887

1,173,000
1,275,000
1,476,000
1,622,000
1,879,000
2,112,000
3,278,000
3,565,000
3,995,000
4,299,000
4,654,000
4,647,000
5,019,000
4,798,000
5,276,000
5,832,000
5,827,000
5,465,000
5,879,000
6,117,000
5,701,000
5,824,000
6,578,000
6,911,000

3,432,000
3,453,000
3,305,000
3,274,000
3,375,000
3,394,000
3,330,000
4,079,000
4,265,000
3,611,000
3,141,000
2,988,000
2,945,000
3,093,000
3,400,000
3,443,000
3,314,000
3,128,000
2,425,000
2,606,000
2,956,431
3,364,349
3.346,147
3,173,706

4,605,000

1888

4,728,000

1889

4,781,000

1890

4,896,000

1891

5,254,000

1892

5,506,000

1893

6,608,000

1894

7,644,000

1895

8,260,000

1896

7,910,000

1897

7,795,000

1898

7,635,000

1899

7,964,000

1900

7,891,000

1901

8,676,000

1902

9,275,000

1903

9,141,000

1904

8,593,000

1905

8,304,000

1906

8,723,000

1907

8,657,431

1908

1909

9,188,349
9,924,147

1910

10,084,706

The western killings and the seaboard receipts are together
nearly the same as in the previous year, showing an increase of
only 60,000 head and a total of 10,084,706.

As we have before remarked, the total slaughter in the whole
country must greatly exceed this number and good authorities
estimate it to be from 14,000,000 to 15,000,000 annually, a number
practically equal to the lamb crop of the year. The United
States Census for 1909 in its report on slaughtering and meat
packing establishments gives the number of sheep and lambs
slaughtered in 1,641 establishments as 11,691,308, but even here
no account is taken of the number killed by farmers and ranch-
men for their own use and by butchers in small towns and
villages to supply the local needs. It is much to be regretted
that statistics of this as well as other phases of the sheep and
wool growing industries are of necessity so incomplete. It is to
be hoped that as time goes on the permanent Census Bureau, with
increased facilities and the greater knowledge that comes with
experience, will be able to so perfect its inquiries as to be able to

FLUCTUATIONS IN WOOL PRICES,

DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN, 1890-1911.

1905

1906

1907

1908

1909

1910 1911 i2

lll^

'4i IS

4 11^

Ills

1 It t

■5 1 ■? 5; f

1 -r t; "

Territory
Fine Medium

Scoured,
Texas Scoured

(12 monthsi

60's
Botany Tops

(Bradford)

PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS, BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A.

—

^-^-

ijl 1890 1891 1892 1893 1

894 1895 1896 1897 1898 1899

1900

1901

1902

1903

1904

■^

^5=

np.

-H

o|?j|-i sj-i-^ "5|f 1 i its i:

Ms Jil'IISfo fito lltl Ill's s'l

^Ifo

tin

Ill's

1 kA i

■^

U-

4 ^J

-H

69p'=f==--='=r=r' "

66 —| 1

--//

-_L

- ^ -

- \X

- XX

60's 63 ,

'■

- x\

Botany Tops ()2 ^

...,<?

- M

(Bfadfofd) (il - Y ^\~T~

- w

.IZmonlhsi ij j /.■^ ' \

- -t

Territory ^^^ \ // V^. >. i __

\ —

\i /

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J ~J'tl

s^ \ I

q_i\.^^_.

\ '

^ Is. j ^ 35.

Ohio Delaine
Washed

Ohio X X

Crossbred Tops

(Bradford)
Kentucky Combing

^'8 Unwashed

Port Phillip

Average Grease

London

1 it i tkt

t^ t mKM^ "

i t% " -^ ll

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-fi

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(London) 23 \ N ■ 1 \ X-

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LLLLLI

London price of Poi^ Phillip wool, Helmuth Schwartze & Co. Bradford prices Merino and Crossbred Tops, Boston prices of American wools.

ANNUAL OOL REVIEW. 519

furnish more complete sta. tical statements concerning this
important branch of America industry.

THE COURSE OF PRICES.

In our last Review we remarked that " the year had been a
most unusual one in the wool trade." Unsatisfactory as that was
the present has been no improvement. It opened with a feeling
of disappointment among dealers, and of doubt and uncertainty
among manufacturers. As the season advanced prices which
were low at the start sagged off, becoming irregular and greatly
demoralized. The prime cause of this condition was the fear of
adverse tariff legislation during the extra session of Congress,
called to consider the proposed Reciprocity Treaty with Canada.
Orders for goods were limited in amount and manufacturers
consequently pursued a cautious policy in purchases of raw
material, and their supplies have been drawn mainly from
domestic wools.

After the adjournment of Congress following its failure to
enact any tariff legislation, the market became more settled and
the latter part of the year has shown greater activity with a
moderate increase in wool prices.

Table IX. shows the Boston prices in October for fifteen years
and covers the period of the existence of the Diugley law of
which the present Payne-Aldrich law so far as Schedule K is
concerned is practically a continuance. The changes in prices
and the course of the market are shown in the table and graph-
ically indicated by our Chart of Fluctuations in Wool Prices,
opposite this page, in which Ohio XX. and Port Phillip average
grease for many years represented Boston and London prices for
similar grades of wool ; at the present time, owing to changes in
methods of preparing wools and the uses to which they are
suited, the comparison is more closely between the Ohio Delaine
and the Port Phillip. The Boston prices of Ohio XX., Ken-
tucky three-eighths combing, unwashed ; Ohio Delaine, washed ;
territor}^ fine medium and Texas spring, twelve months, scoured,
and prices for 60's Botany and 40's crossbred tops in Bradford
are shown.

520 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table IX. — Comparative Prices of Domestic Wool ik Boston,
October, 1897-1911.

IX)

1ft

1»

Ohio, Pennsylvania,

AND West Virginia.

( Wanhed.)

XX and above . . .

291

29|

314

284

264

284

364

Medium

30^

344

284

414

Fine Delaine ....

301

29^

344

284

314

374

384

( Unwashed.)

Fine

19^

224

184

194

214

234

Medium

22^

234

344

Fine Delaine ...

21i

244

211

Michigan, Wisconsin,

New York, etc.

( Washed.)

Fine

22i

254

221

204

274

31*

30*

28*

31*

28*

Medium ......

271

274

244

Fine Delaine ....

27^

314

254

244

{Unleashed.)

Fine

181

164

214

254

Medium

224

194

214

Fine Delaine ....

19^

224

184

234

Kentucky and Indiana.

{Untonshed.)

Medium

224

244

224

244

Missouri, Iowa, and

Illinois.

( Unwashed.)

Medium

211

224

194

214

234

Texas.

{Scoured Basis.)

Spring, fine, 12month8

524

Fall, flue

41|

424

California.

{Scoured Basis.)

Spring, Northern,

free, 12 months . .

434

Fall, free .....

42i

384

424

Territory Wool, in-

cluding Montana,

Wyoming, Utah,

Idaho, Oregon, etc.

{Scoured Basis.)

Staple fine

474

" medium . . .

Clothing, fine ....

" medium . .

474

* Nominal.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 521

BOSTON RECEIPTS AND SHIPMENTS OF WOOL.

Table X. shows the annual receipts of domestic and foreign
wool in Boston by months for the years 1905 to 1911, inclusive,
and Table XI. shows the shipments in pounds from Boston, by
months over the several railroads and by sea for the year. Only
the direction and quantity of the shipments can be determined
by this table, which contains a certain amount of duplication,
for it reports shipments of wool from Boston to be scoured, some
of which is reshipped to Boston, to be again sent away to
factories where it is used.

The receipts of domestic wool in Boston up to November 1
were 830,476 bales and bags, containing 204,933,413 pounds of
wool. During the same period the receipts of foreign wool
amounted to 147,429 bales, equal to 60,898,806 pounds. In the
corresponding period of ten months in the previous year the
domestic receipts were 649,252 bales, 166,219,932 pounds, and
183,719 bales, 73,669,814 pounds, of foreign.

The falling oif in the receipts of domestic wool is accounted
for in part by the reduced clip and in part, as is indicated by our
advices, by the holding back of wool by producers in hope of
securing better prices. The condition of the wool manufacturing
business sufficiently accounts for the reduction in the foreign
imports.

522 NATIONAL, ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

523

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524 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
STATISTICS OF IMPORTS OF WOOL AND WOOLENS.

The Hon. 0. P. Austin, chief of the Bureau of Statistics of the
Department of Commerce and Labor, has kindly furnished us
with numerous tables showing various important facts with
respect to imports of wool and wool manufactures for the fiscal
year ending June 30, 1911, which appear in Tables XII. to
XIV., inclusive, Table XVI., and Table XXIV., showing the
imports of wool and manufactures of wool entered for consump-
tion for the fiscal years ending June 30, 1910 and 1911.

IMPORTS OF WOOL BY PORTS AND CLASSES.

Tables XII., XIII., and XIV. show the gross imports of wool
both by classes and ports, as brought into the three principal wool
importing centers, but as stated in the foot-notes to the tables
there is a moderate quantity imported each year into minor
ports. The tables show a very large decrease in the quantity of
wool imported, which equaled only one-half of the imports of
the previous year and, with the exception of the years 1899 and
1908, is the smallest shown in the sixteen years included in the
table. Boston retains her supremacy in the importation of Class
I and II wools, receiving a total of 38,221,537 pounds, against
4,317,851 pounds in the other two ports. The imports of Class
III wools into New York amounted to 43,540,674 pounds, a total
much smaller than usual, but still over 4,000,000 pounds in excess
of the receipts of similar wools in Boston and Philadelphia.
The total importation of Class III wools in these three ports
amounted to 89,545,557 pounds, and of all wools, 125,015,853
pounds.

ANNUAL WOOL BEVIEW.

525

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526 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

627

Table XIV. — Wool Imported into Boston, New York, and Phila-
delphia, Fiscal Year ending June 30, 1911, bt Countries op
Production, Immediate Shipment, and Classes.

Countries op
Production.

Austria-Hungary .

Belgium

Bulgaria

Denmark

Prance

Germany

G-reece

Iceland, and Faro
Islands

Italy

Netherlands . . . .
Norway

Portugal

Russia in Europe . .

Countries of immediate
shipment.

Servia
Spain

Turkey in Europe .

England

Scotland

Ireland

Canada

Mexico

West Indies — Dutch

Argentina

Brazil

Chile

Colombia

Peru

Uruguay

Venezuela

Chinese Empire . .

Austria-Hungary .

England

France

Belgium

Austria-Hungary . .

Denmark ,

Denmark

England

France

England

Germany

Greece

Denmark

England

Germany

Italy

Netherlands . . . .

England

Portugal

Austria-Hungary . .

(Jhinese Empire . . .

England

France -

I Germany

I. IJussia in Europe . .
I Austria-Hungary . .
{ Germany . . . • . .

(Italy

' France

Portugal

Spain

{Austria Hungary . .
Deumark ......
England
France
Turkey in Europe . .

J England

/ Scotland

i England

) Scotland

England

Canada

Mexico

West Indies — Dutch

\ Argentina

( Enaland

\ Brazil

Classification.

Class 1.

Pounds.

104,474

Class 2.

Pounds.

120

1,438

England ....

Chile

England ....
Colombia ....
England ....

Peru

Belgium ....
England ....
Uruguay ....
Venezuela . . .
Chinese Empire .
England ....

France

Germany ....
Russia in Europe

1,384

2,200

1,261
322,639

26,235

13,328,327

685,96s

3,376
59,921
50,427

41,771
100,435
569,319

8,901

32,576
507,239

984,157
3,668,318
206,809
184,751
89,140
137,035
30,203

96,326

54,992
109,728

Class 3.

Pounds.
515,191

Total.

8,618

7,492

40,909

298,4y9

86,123

2,047,748

2^128,7.34

16,408

734,815

309,758i

117,296

189,704

140

10,304

224,165

214,319

61,865

103,621

673,053

1,671

9,523[

8,751,664 j

117,768

13,074

9,182

215,591:

29,619!

403,280

175'

Pounds.

I 628,283

7,612
40,909
298,499

2,135,364

2,130,118
16,408

1,161,869

180,326

140

10,304

447,385

59,877

20,535

815,406

2,570,344

1,596,'333
4,078,733

134

85,520

4,665

3,780,755

20,644

22,953

392

63,738

28,089,334

361,514

20,221

93,528

1,485,239

9,601,940

140,024
650,690

2,421,226

6,768,110

5,948,957

137,035
66,572
85,520
4,725

( 17,891,376

j 24,020

j 133,301

392

I 164,720

J 711,525
63,738

j- 30,055,965
I
J

528 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

Table XIV. — Continued.

Countries op
Pkoduction.

Brillsb East Indies

Cl.ASSII'ICATION.

Countries of immediate!
shipment.

Russia — Asiatic .

Turkey in Asia .

Australia and Tas
mania

New Zealand . . .

British Af r i ca —

South

Portuguese Africa .

Egypt

Tripoli

Total

Imported into . .

Chinese Empire . . .
British East Indies .

England

France

Germany

Turkey in Europe . .
Austria-Hungary . .

England ,

Italy

Persia

England

Russia, Asiatic . . .
Russia in Europe . .
Austria-Hungary . .
British East Indies .

England

France

Russia in Europe . .
Turkey in Asia . . .
Turkey in Europe . .
Australia and Tas

mania

England

New Zealand ....
British Africa — South,
England ....
Portuguese Africa
England ....
Tripoli

Class 1.

Poundi.

261,064

Class 2.

Pounds.

113,016

9,062,344
5,205,604
4,847,581
1,354,592
94,239
98,271

Boston ...

New York . .
Philadelphia

32,689,348
1,327,443
2,205,818

23,317

41,260

2,821
12,054

Class 3.

Pound
2,
1,942,
8,394,
61,
12,
43,

86,
100,
737,

18,
3,236

87,

185:

98,

1,301

298,

301

18,057

Pounds.
10,831,635

\ 936,593
3,342,416

20,793

122,323

240

6,316,779

5,532,189
252,927
531,663

1,0

82,476,465

20,117,152
43,540,674
18,818,639

J. 7,131,756

14,286,005

6,208,157

350,502

240

416

1,080

125,015,853

58,338,689'
45,121,044
21,556,120

COUNTRIES OF PRODUCTION AND SHIPMENT.

Table XIV., above, shows the countries of production and
immediate shipment of wools imported into the United States
during the fiscal year ending June 30, 1911.

The imports of Class I wools were exceedingly light, amount-
ing to only 36,222,609 pounds as against 106,713,750 pounds the
year before and 138,143,968 pounds in 1909. These imports from
the principal countries of production for the last three years
have been as follows :

1911.

1910.

190tt.

Australasia

Pounds.
20,470,121
14,014,295
715,525

1,022,668

Pounds.

68,094,059

27,331,168

8,768,627

2,519,896

Pounds.
79,416,776

Argentina

50,601,420

Uruffuav

5,759,852
2,365,920

All other

36,222,609

106,713,750

138,143,968

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

529

The supplies of Class III wools were drawn chiefly from the
following countries ; the imports of the two preceding years are
also given for comparison :

Chinese Empire

Russia (Europe and Asia).

United Kingdom

Turkey (Europe and Asia)

British East Indies

Argentina

Germany

All other

1911.

Pounds.

30,049,836

12,943,813

8,245,410

7,963,172

3,785,420

10,457,555

2,128,734

6,902,525

82,476,465

Pounds.
46,599.637
13,263,175
15,338,953
13,293,465
15,734,913
3,713,317
1,695,166
10,699,468

120,338,094

1909.

Pounds.

35,626,304
7,964,480

17,868,776
9,970,886

12,949,805
6,672,175
2,454,277
8,109,296

101,615,999

The following table gives the total gross imports into the
United States for the six last fiscal years. The quantity
imported into other than the principal ports can be ascertained
by comparison with Tables XII. and XIII.

Table XV. — Gros.s Imports of Wool, Fiscal Years 1906-1911,

1906
1907
1908
1909
1910
1911

Class I.

86,810,307
82,982,116
45,798,313
142,580,993
111,604,330
40,104,845

Class n.

15,204,254
10,671,378
13,332,540
21,952,259
31,614,235
12,456,468

Class III.

99,674,107
110,194,051

66,849,681
101,876,052
120,721,019

85,086,328

Total.

201,688,668
203,847,545
125,980,524
266,409,304
263,939,584
137,647,641

IMPORTS OF WOOL MANUFACTURES.

Table XVI., page 530, which gives the gross imports of manu-
factures of wool, shows a total foreign value of $18,569,791, a
decrease of $3,962,384 from 1910 and |2,149,908 less than the
average of the preceding six years.

This being the foreign invoice value cannot properly be used
for comparison with the value of home manufactures, except by
the addition of the customs duties paid. For such purposes the
table of imports entered for consumption should be used.

530 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF. WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 531

IMPORTS OF WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL ENTP^RED
FOB CONSUMPTION.

The figures in Table XXIV., showing the imports of foreign
wools and the manufactures of wool entered for consumption
during the fiscal year, differ from those in the tables of gross
imports and must not be confused with them. Only those quan-
tities which go into consumption are included in the former, while
in the tables of gross imports, all imports, those entered in bond
as well as those withdrawn for consumption, are embraced.

The duty paid value of the imports of wool is $42,055,113,
and of all manufactures of wool, including wool partially manu-
factured and not specially provided for, $35,274,749, making
a total duty paid value of $77,329,854.

LONDON SALES.

The sixth of the London sales of Colonial wool for 1910
began November 23 and closed December 6. The net amount
available was 120,000 bales, of which 112,000 were sold, leaving
8,000 to be carried over into this year. The distribution was as
follows :

Home consumption 52,000 bales.

Continent 60,000 "

America 11,000 "

Carried over 8,000 "

The following statement shows the supplies and deliveries
of Colonial wool in the London market for the first five series of
1911, as compared with the same series of last year :

London Market. 1910. 1911.
Held over from December previous

year 3,000 bis. 8,000 bis.

Net Imports for the first 5 series 706,000 " 808,000 ' '

709,000 bis. 816,000 bis.

Home Consumption 406,000 bis. 483,000 bis.

Continent " 267,000 " 294,000 "

America " 22,000 " 13,000 "

Total sold (first-hand wools) 695,000 bis. 790,000 bis.

Held over for sixth series . . . 14,000 bis. 26,000 bis.

532 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The net imports amounted to 808,000 bales, and as there were
8,000 bales held over from last year, the total available supply
was 816,000 bales. The quantity available for each sale and the
destination of the purchases are shown in the table which
follows :

London Sales — Colonial Wool, First Five Series, 1911.

Jan. 1, 1911

Jan. 17-Feb. 4 1

March 14-April 1..2

May 9-26 3

July 11-26 4

Sept. 26-Oct. 10... 5

Bales.

198,000
232,000
206,000
175,000
138,000

Bales.

111,000

120,000

95,000

86,000

70,000

Bales.

66,000
72,000
70,000
46,000
40,000

Bales.

4,000
3,000
2,000
2,000
2,000

Bales.

181,000
195,000
167,000
134,000
112,000

Bales.
8,000
17,000
37,000
39,000
41,000
26,000

The total sales were 789,000 bales distributed as follows : to
England, 482,000 bales ; the Continent, 294,000 bales ; to America,
13,000 bales, and 26,000 bales were held over for the next series,
which began November 28, the entries closing November 20. The
data at hand was insufficient for an estimate of the quantity
available for the series.

Messrs. Helmuth Schwartze & Co. comment upon each of the
series of London sales as follows : Of the first series, which
commenced January 17 and closed February 7, they say :

There was a large attendance and after some opening hesita-
tion the tone became good and remained so till the close. The
Continent did not take its usual share and acted at first with
very great caution. Towards the end, however, foreign buyers
operated much more freely as confidence everywhere gained
ground.

The American section took a small quantity (4,000 bales) after
being practically out of the market since May last.

At the opening good merino showed a fall of 5 per cent as
compared with December, but quickly improved, and at the close
all fine greasy wool is fully on a paj- with last sales, while the
best scoureds are barely 5 per cent easier. Strong-haired, inferior
and faulty wools opened with a decline of from 1^ to 10 per cent,
but also hardened somewhat during the course of the sales and
may now be quoted about 5 per cent below December.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 533

The second series, which occupied from March 14 to April 1,
was marked by

a very full attendance and the tone was strong from start to
finish, with good general competition except from America,
which took very little. At the outset merino wool sold well on
a par with January, but prices soon hardened and at the close
the great bulk of merino grease is 5 per cent and all fine grease
from 5 to 7^ per cent above January level, while scoureds also
show a rise of 5 per cent for the lower sorts and of 7J- per cent
for fine wools.

Crossbreds opened on a par with January except for an occa-
sional weakness in medium wools. Here too, however, a harden-
ing tendency soon showed itself, and at the close coarse and low
medium wools are 5 per cent, finer sorts from par to 5 per cent
dearer than in the previous sales.

At the third series. May 9 to 26,

there was a large attendance with good competition from both
home and foreign buyers, though the latter manifested a certain
reserve throughout the series.

The sales opened with merino wool well on a par with last
sales, wools of really fine quality often fetching a fraction more.
Towards the end of the series, however, some irregularity
occurred, and at the close fine wools are on a par with March,
ordinary wools from par to 5 per cent below that level. Inferior
scoureds, especially short wools, were greatly neglected and sold
at fully 5 per cent decline.

Crossbreds sold at first at from par to 5 per cent advance com-
pared with the previous sales. Coarse wools continued to sell at
about this level. The finest crossbreds, on the otlier hand, barely
maintained their position, while medium wools very soon gave
way and now sell at a half-penny decline from March.

The fourth series extended from July 11 to July 26. The
attendance was good and the competition for good wool was
generally animated to the close of the series :

Good merino, both greasy and scoured, sold well up to May
level and occasionally brought even a fraction more, but inferior
wools showed some irregularity and faulty, scoureds were mostly
5 per cent easier.

Fine crossbreds were unchanged. Very coarse wools were at
first a half-penny easier, but hardened at the close and are now
very nearly on a par with May. Medium wools sold throughout
at a diecline of 5 per cent. Scoured crossbred sold very irregu-
larly throughout the series, while slipes were from o to 7^ per

534 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

cent cheaper than last sales, medium wool showing the decline
most.

At the fifth series, which began September 26, and closed
October 10,

there was a large attendance and the tone, after some hesitation
at first, was brisk all through the sales.

Good greasy merino sold practically on a par with last sales,
but super scoureds were 5 per cent lower. The bulk of ordinary
top-makers' wools, both grease and scoured, were from 5 to 7^
per cent easier, while short faulty scoureds were very heavy of
sale and often showed a decline of 10 per cent.

Among greasy crossbreds the finest sold at from par to 5 per
cent decline. Coarse wools, after some irregularity in the early
part of the sales, realized last sales' values. Medium qualities
were fully 5 per cent below July.

The preceding statements refer only to the London market.
Adding the transit wools and the direct imports, the total
deliveries to the trade as stated by Helmuth Schwartze & Co.
are as follows :

DiBtributlon of Colonial

Wool through England

and direct.

Total Season.
1909.

Total Season.
1910.

Five Series.
1910.

Five Series.
1911.

Sold to England

" " Continent

" " America

Bales.

917,000
1,588,000

179,000

Bales.
1,008,000
1,650,000
125,000

Bales.

932,000

1,523,000

125,000

Bales.

1,004,000

1,586,000

48,000

2,684,000

2,783,000

2,580,000

2,638,000

The deliveries for the five series show an increase of 58,000
bales. The home trade took 72,000 bales and the Continent
66,000 bales more than in the preceding year. The American
trade was noticeable from its absence. As compared with the
five series in the preceding year, only 48,000 bales were held for
America as against 125,000 bales in the corresponding series of
1910, a decline of 77,000 bales.

Buxton, Ronald & Company, in their Annual Colonial Wool
Report, under date of October 31, 1911, say of the London
wool year just closed :

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 535

The history of the past twelve months presents itself as a long
drawn out international, financial, and economic crisis which,
more or less severe in certain centers, from various causes dis-
turbed the prosperity of the world. Its more prominent features
were over-speculation in, and over-production of, industrial enter-
prises, and the flooding of markets with the shares or obligations
of these ventures. To this was added the disquieting and pro-
tracted uncertainty in regard to the occurrence of war between
France and Germany, which filled the public mind for two
months. Whilst these conditions were acting with varying
intensity during the summer and autumn of the 3'ear, they were
aggravated by food riots in France and Austria, by revolutionary
labor movements in Spain, and by strikes of unparalleled charac-
ter in this country and elsewhere. Seldom has there been such
a combination of adverse circumstances to contend against, and
it would liave been surprising if trade and markets in general had
been proof against them. A further contributing cause to weak-
ness in values of wool has been the very slender support given to
the article by the Americans. On this market their purchases
were some 50 per cent below those of the preceding season,
whilst in the Australasian markets they bought some 67 per cent
less, and with Bradford consular returns showing a 33 per cent
decrease some idea of the falling off in their wants may be
gained. Another adverse factor may be found in the generally
unsatisfactory outturn of the clips from the various countries.
Practically without exception only poor results have been
obtained, and this has proved a further burden on the already
high clean scoured basis upon which the season was started.
Under these circumstances, it is a matter for congratulation that
wool shows merely tlie slight and quite normal decline as indi-
cated above, and if buyers, topmakers, and manufacturers cannot
look back with much pleasure or profit on the past twelve
montlis, growers at any rate liave had good paying prices.
Spinners also have had an excellent year.

The present season, whatever the future has in store for it,
has started on a very different plane, prices in Australian markets
being quoted from 10 to 20 per cent below those of a year ago.
The poor results of last year, the uncertain condition of inter-
national politics and the menace to trade of industrial unrest no
doubt will be pleaded in justification of these lower prices, but
surely the worst complexion is being put upon the situation. No
account is being taken of the fact that there will be no increase
in the world's supplies worth talking about to meet ever increas-
ing needs, nor does the possibility of an improvement in the
American market seem to have received any consideration.

536 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

LIVERPOOL WOOL SALES.

Messrs. Hughes & Islierwood report the Liverpool wool sales
for the first five series of 1911 in bales as follows :

January.

March.

May.

July.

September.

Bought by

4,100

5,600

11,238

4,550
10,400
19,854

1,800

7,500

16,228

3,060

4,800

15,886

3,250

5,750

16,170

America.
Continent.
Home trade.

20,938
5,505

34,804
11,530

25,528
7,923

23,746
10,390

25,170
19,180

Total sold.
Withdrawn.

26,443

46,334

33,451

34,136

44,350

Bales offered.

Of the fifth series of sales of East India wool, Messrs. Thomas
& Cook say :

With the large available supply and indications of a curtailed
consumption it was anticipated that in order to make satisfac-
tory progress some decline from July rates would have to be
submitted to. On the opening day with only a moderate selec-
tion biddings were by no means brisk, and although prices of
clean white wools of the better class were but little changed,
medium and common sorts and all wasty descriptions showed a
decline of fully 5 per cent from the closing rates of the last
auctions. As the sales progressed there was little alteration in
the general spirit of the bidding, whilst the extremely high limits
for which many of the shipments were held seriously affected the
competition and brought a decided protest from buyers, who in
many instances declined to make any serious attempts to bid
where unreasonable limits were imposed, and although prices did
not quotably alter from the opening day the tendency toward the
close was somewhat against sellers. Yellow wools throughout
being a scarce commodity sold fully up to July rates, whilst
grays, although in fair supply, were well competed for and
mostly sold at firm rates. It is estimated that about 5,750 bales
have been taken for continental account and about 3,250 bales
for America, as against 4,800 bales and 3,060 bales, respectively,
in July. Home trade buyers bought 16,170 bales as against
15,886 bales in July. The withdrawals throughout, owing largely
to the high limits, have been very heavy and total 19,180 bales,
so that with the new arrivals the available supply for the next
auctions is again likely to be very large.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 537

The sales for the six series of 1910 are given for comparison :

January.

March.

May.

July.

September.

November.

Bought by

Bales.

8,650

7,650

15,599

Bales.

2,600

4,600

11,124

18,324
4,284

22,608

Bales.

3,150

7,100

20,045

30,295
6,685

36,980

Bales.

4,000

6,300

18,143

28,443
6,514

Bales.

2,400

6,600

20,389

Bales.

5,600

5,900

15,207

America.
Continent.
Home trade.

81,899
6,377

29,389
9.659

26,707
7,491

Total sold.
Withdrawn.

38,276

34,957

39,048

34,198

Bales offered.

ANTWERP AUCTIONS.

The Antwerp Wool Sales were held on the following dates :
1st series, February 12 ; 2d series, March 9 ; 3d series, May 4 ;
4th series, July 6 ; 5th series, September 22 ; with sales reported
by Messrs. Fuhrraann & Co. as follows :

Ist
Series.

Series.

Sd
Series.

4th
Series.

5th
Series.

Buenos Ayres

Bales.

314

507

Bales.

1,218

1,613

362

Bales.
1,301
2,162

282

Bales.

717

806

Bales.

807

Montevideo

2,898
69

Rio Grande

Entre Rios

Fray Bentos

Punta Arenas

141

1,756

3,240

3,745

Total River Plate

947

3,776

2
28
89

7
34

28
28

Cape

192

123

253

199

538 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Messrs. Fuhrraann & Co. in their circular of September 22,
1911, quote prices as follows :

Per Kilo Clean

without Washing

Charges, Combed

in Oil.

Parity English

Pounds, Combed

in Oil, Net Cash

on Delivery.

Super Montevideo merino 1 A. combing . .

Montevideo good combing merino 1 A

Buenos Ayres crossbreds 46s. /48s

f. 5.05
f. 4.80
f. 3.L5
f. 2.95
f. 2.65

21fd.
20fd.
13id.
12|d.

lUd.

THE SEASON IN AUSTRALASIA.

Messrs. Dalgety & Co. in their annual review of the Australa-
sian season of 1910-11 issued in July of the current year, from
which as usual we make copious extracts, say :

The results secured bj' producers during the statistical year
which closed on June 30 last have proved exceedingly satis-
factory. Although sheep numbers have not materially increased,
an excellent season in the main has been experienced, a record
wool clip has been realized, and satisfactory crops have been
harvested, while in regard to the future, the lambing promises to
be considerably above the average and the wool clip a large and
well-grown one. Markets have been favorable to sellers, and
notwithstanding some sharp fluctuations, the level of prices for
practically all products has been a payable one, leading to a great
acquisition of wealth, with the prospect of equally successful
results in the approaching season.

Table XVII. — Number of Sheep at Close of Year in Australasia,

1906-1910.

1910.

1009.

190S.

1907.

1906.

New South Wales

Viotoria

Queensland

South Australia

West Australia

Tasmania

45,825,308

12,937,983

20,153,239

6,432,038

5,157,658

1,735,000

46,194,178

12,937,983

19,593,791

6,898,450

4,692,419

1,728,053

43,329,384
12,545,742
18,348,851
6,829,637
4,098,500
1,744,800

44,555,879

14,146,734

16,738,050

7,023,000

3,694,852

1,729,394

44,132,431
12,937,440
14,886,438
6,700,000
3,200,000
1,583,560

Australia and Tasmania . .
New Zealand

92,241,226
23,792,947

92,044,874
23,480,707

86,896.914
22,449,053

87,887,909
20,983,772

83,439,859
20,108,471

Total

116,034,173

115,525,581

109,345,967

108,871,681

103,548,330

ANNUAL WOOL EEVIEW.

539

According to the latest figures available the Hocks in Australia
and New Zealand now total 116,034,173 head, having increased
during the past twelve months by the small number of 508,592
head. A greater number of sheep, however, are now depastured
in Austialasia than at any period during the past 17 years, the
previous record having been in 1891, when the figures reached
124,991,920 head. The past year's increase is considerably below
what had been expected, but the smallness of the increase is to
some extent due to the very large numbers which have been
slaughtered for export and local consumption. The general
opinion is that present numbers of sheep are quite as high as can
be carried safely, so that the absence of a material increase is,
perhaps, a good thing. Although sheep which were put through
the past shearing did not cut any moie wool per head than in the
preceding year, there has, nevertheless, been a general all-round
improvement in the flocks, and a very high standard has been
reached, especially in respect to merinos, a fact which will be
appreciated when it is stated that though there were many more
sheep to shear 20 years ago, the clip shorn during the past season
eclipses all previous records.

Table XVIII. — Adstralasian Wool Exports in Bales.
Compiled from Customs Returns.

New South Wales

Victoria

Queensland . . .
South Australia .
Western Australia
Tasruania ....
New Zealand . .

Total ....

Seasons op

lOlO-ll.

lOOO-lO.

1908-0.

190T-8.

I906-7.

Bales.
923,831
501,835
281,352
174,639
73,395
20,326
493,372

Bales.
931,208
510,343
238,722
160,573
63,555
17, .304
512,938

Bales.
915,617
454,942
184,207
165,513
56,785
19,283
491,757

Bales.
856,407
300,390
234,709
143,274
52,500
33,610
436,941

Bales.
966,630
301,000
204,000
126,000
42,000
33,500
427,058

2,468,750

2,434,643

2,288,104

2,057,831

2,090,188

Table XIX. — Exports of Wool from Australasia in Pounds.
Seasons of 1908-9, 1909-10, and 1910-11.

New South Wales

Victoria

Queensland

South Australia . .
West Australia. . .

Tasmania

New Zealand . . . .

Pounds.

296,659,it08

147,401,208

59,683,068

53,626,212

18,398,340

6,247,692

174,573,735

756,590,163

Pounds.

307,598,640

165,968,475

78,092,094

52,206,225

23,833,329

5,018,160

184,144,742

816,861,665

1910-11.

Pounds.

304,864,230

160,085,365

92,283,456

56,932,314

27,449.730

5,223,782

173,173 572

820,012,449

540 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

AVERAGE PER HEAD RETURNS.

Dividing the number of sheep shorn, say 116,034,17<^j ii^to the
net weight of wool produced, including that used for local manu-
facturers, in all 838,280,699 pounds, it will be seen that the
average weight of wool produced per head works out at 7 pounds,
4 ounces, which compares with previous years as follows :
1909-10, 7 pounds, 4 ounces; 1908-9, 6 pounds, 14 ounces;
1907-8, 6 pounds, 9 ounces. While satisfactory, the all-around
average price of wool has been less than during the preceding
year, and the average monetary return has been 5s. 5d. per head
of sheep and lambs as against 5s. lOd. per head for 1908-9 and
5s. Id. per head for 1907-8.

The decline in the monetary return per head is due to the
slight falling off in the average value. The average realized per
bale for all wool sold in Australasian markets has been £12 10s.
4d., £1 Is. lOd. less than in the previous year, but still £1 3s.
6d. above the 1908-9 average.

IMPROVEMENT IN FLOCKS.

No doubt the flocks continue to show improvement. More
attention is being paid to shape and constitution, whilst the
length of staple is undoubtedly improving, the craze for density
which was so pronounced a feature of the industry a few years
ago having been passed over for a more easily fed and generally
more profitable animal producing a fleece of good staple.

There is no question but that Australasian flockmasters, being
very observant, soon set about to remedy any mistakes that may
be made, and it is gratifying to notice that some of the small
growers take a commendable pride in the flocks and produce
sheep and wool fully equal to their neighbors with large station
properties ; but we regret to say that the majority have not so far
made much attempt to emulate the comparative few in this
respect, and that is why the general character and get-up of the
Australasian clip will fall off if active measures are not taken to
educate the farmers in sheepbreeding, wool-classing, etc.

TROUBLES OF PRODUCERS.

A great trouble felt by producers, who, it must constantly be
remembered, are the backbone and a bit more of this country, has
been the scarcity and unreliability of labor. Even at the higher
rates of wages now paid, and the better food and accommodation
provided, it has been quite impossible to get sufficient men to
cultivate the land and handle stock to the best advantage.

The number of fleeces per bale and the number of bales per
1,000 sheep are given in the following statement, which shows that
there has been a remarkable decrease in the number of fleeces
required to fill a bale since 1896 and at the same time a similar
increase in the number of bales required for the fleeces of 1,000
sheep :

ANNUAL WOOL EEVIEW.

541

Tear.

No. of Sheep and Lambs'
Fleeces per Bale.

N'o. of Bales per 1,000 Sheep.

1896-7

59.65
60.08
59.62
57.95
55.88
55.42
51.36
55.51
52.70
50.27
49.65
51.72
47.79
46.49
47.

16.75

1897-8

16.64

1898-9

16.76

1899-1900

17.25

1900-1901

17.89

1901-2

18.04

1902-3

19.46

1903-4

17.99

1904-5

18.97

1905-6

19.89

1906-7

20.13

1907-8

18.97

1908-9

20.92

1909-10

21.51

1910-11 ,.

21.27

AUSTRALIAN EXPORTS AND SALKS.

The importance of the Australian wool auctions is shown in
the following table, from which it appears that the percentage
of sales in the home market has increased from 53 per cent in
1898-9 to 76 per cent in 1910-11, while the actual quantity sold
has more than doubled during the period.

AnSTRAL.VSIAN EXPORTS AND SaLES.

Season.

Total Exports.

Sales.

Sales to Exports.

1898-9

Bales.
1,664,517
1,694,464
1,609,713
1,664,885
1,440,722
1,366,942
1,595,734
1,869,455
2,090,188
2,057,831
2,288,104
2,434,643
2,468,750

Bales.

890,185

915,877

808,912

1,035,520

861,174

837,497

1,092,651

1,354,865

1,537,798

1,351,121

1,657,906

1,889,745

1,865,167

Per cent.
53

1899-0

1900-1

1901 2

1902-3

1903 4

1904-5

1905-6

1906-7

1907-8

1908-9

1909-10

1910-11

542 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The distribution of purchases in Australasia in the past two
seasons has been as follows :

1909-10.

1910-11.

Bales.

Per Cent.

Bales.

Per Cent.

United Kingdom

529,949

1,107,829

137,491

22,591

91,885

1,889,745

28
59 •

100

581,467

1,118,282

44,630

18,857

101,931

1,865,167

United States and Canada

Japan, China, and India

Local manufacturers, etc

2
1
6

100

Table XX. — Value, Australasian Clip, 1881-1910.

Calendar

Total Value

Calendar

Total Value

Calendar

Total Value

Year.

Wool Exports.

Year.

Wool Exports.

Year.

Wool Exports.

1881

16,136,082

1903

18,042,873

1907

26,768,952

1891

24,063,227

1904

21,796,096

1908

25,950,912

1896

20,433,855

1905

25,203,549

1909

33,128,496

1901

18,936,557 ,

1906

29,685,780

1910

31,588,936

1902

16,109,026 1

The total value of the 1,865,167 bales sold in Australasia was
£25,712,774; and even presuming that the portion of the clip
which has been sent direct to London for sale has only made a
like average, the net gain in wealth to Australasia from wool
alone will have amounted to

£31,588,9.36 as compared with
£33,128,496 for the preceding year,
£25,950,912 for the year 1908-9,
£26,768,952 for the year 1907-8, and
£29,685,740 in 1906-7.

COURSE OF AUSTRALASIAN PRICES.

The general position of the wool market for the whole season
as compared with the previous year is shown by the average price
obtained for all the wool sold, which was 9d. per pound, as
against 95d. per pound in 1909-10, a decline of over 7^ per cent.

Taken at per bale the decline was £1 Is. lOd., or 8 per cent,
but the bales were a few pounds lighter than the previous season.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

543

That the clip was inferior to that of the year 1909-10 is shown
by the fact that while the average paid for the wool in Australasian
markets was 7h per cent lower than in that year, the average
decline in the value of merino tops for the year was but 1.53 per
cent and for crossbred tops 3.36 per cent.

EXPORTS FROM AUSTRALASIA.

The exports from each State do not indicate the actual pro-
duction. For instance, in Sydney large quantities of Queens-
land wool are dealt with, while Melbourne is the central port for
Southern Kiverina, the southeast of South Australia, and Tas-
mania, as well as for Victoria. More than half of the Tasmanian
production is, however, now shipped oversea direct from that
State. The shipment figures from each State compare as under
with the previous season :

lOlO-ll.

lOOO-lO.

Net Weight.

New South Wales. . . .
Victoria

Bales.

923,831

501,835

Pounds.
304,864,230
h;o nKn S«n

Bales.

931,208

Pounds.

307,598,640

165,968,475

78,092,094

52,206,225

23,833,329

5 018 160

281,352 99 9K.^ -l/^c 9:^«'r'>9

South Australia

West Australia

Tasmania

174,639
73,395
20,326

56.932,314

27,449,730

5,223,782

160,573
63,555
17,304

Commonwealth

New Zealand

1,975,378
493,372

646.838,877
173,173,572

1,921,705
512.938

632,716,923
184,144,742

Australasia

2,468,750

820,012,449

2,434,643

816,861,665

Increase, 34,107 bales, or 3,150,784 pounds.

CHARACTER OF THE CLIP.

The bounteous season which, broadly speaking, Australia and
New Zealand enjoyed during the past twelve months, was not
uniformly good throughout the whole of that period, with the
result that the clip was patchy and, in the great wool growing
State of New South Wales, distinctly disappointing, being
shorter, thinner, and more burry than that shorn in the previous
year. The New Zealand clip was much below the high standard
reached in the immediately preceding season, and hardly up to
the average.

Advices from manufacturing centers state that as a whole the
Australian clip is not yielding up to expectations, but to a cer-
tain degree this may be due to buyers, more especially at the

544 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

commencement of the season, having stretched yields in their
anxiety to secure wool. At the same time, it must be admitted
that the past clip produced a tremendous amount of burry noils,
which are proving extremely hard to sell.

One very pleasing feature of the clip was its pronounced
character and softness of handle, and in this connection the ten-
dency of our flock masters, who are admittedly adepts in the art
of sheep breeding, to produce comparatively plain-bodied sheep
carrying big stylish fleeces of good staple, becomes more pro-
nounced each year. The short stapled, black-tipped, hard fleeces
which were becoming all too noticeable, after the Vermont craze,
have almost entirely disappeared.

The rapid progress of closer settlement has resulted in many
of the best known brands disappearing forever from the cata-
logues, and it must be conceded that the smaller clips produced
by farmers do not, as yet, come within measurable distance of the
original clips, either in breeding, quality, or preparation for
market, which fact is most apparent in the more southerly
markets of Australia and in New Zealand.

A RECORD CLIP.

As was forecasted in last year's Annual Review, the clip
exceeded previous records, and although that from New South
Wales and New Zealand was in some respects faulty, the output
as a whole was, perhaps, well up to the general average, and as
the market was satisfactory the gain in wealth from the staple
product of the country has again been very considerable.

The oversea exports of wool have amounted to 2,468,750 bales,
or 820,012,449 pounds, which shows an increase of 34,107 bales,
or 3,150,784 pounds as compared with the previous clip.

It is particularly notable that from 116,034,173 sheep 677,489
more bales of wool have been exported than that produced from
the record number of 124,991,920 sheep in 1891. Our sheep are
decidedly producing much more wool per head than they were
then, but the great difference in the weight of the bales to-day as
compared with former times must not be lost siglit of by the
trade. It is known exactly how many pounds of wool are now
produced, but, unfortunately, until the past four years the statis-
tics were only compiled in bales. It would appear that the limit
as regards weight of wool produced per head of sheep has now
been reached.

Pastoralists are one and all agreed that a sheep cannot with
advantage cut more than a certain quantity of wool. It is no use
growing wool with an excessive amount of grease, and compara-
tively plain-bodied sheep carrying nice quality of wool of good
staple have come into general favor, which no doubt accounts
for the fact that the weight of wool per sheep shows no increase
as compared with previous year.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 545

MERINO SHEEP DECREASING.

Merino sheep have been pushed out of most countries, and are
being replaced by others in the southern half of Australia, and
though prices will no doubt oscillate somewhat in the meantime,
as soon as the next drought comes in Australia and the merino
flocks of the northern districts seriously decline, fancy prices
for merino wool may again be expected. The only countries
which have retained merino sheep are Australia and South
Africa, and, as has been pointed out before, crossbreds are fast
gaining ground in the southern portion of Australia, and once
the flocks have been changed from merino to crossbred they can-
not be changed back again. It takes twelve months to produce
crossbred wool from the progeny of merino ewes, but it would
take many years to breed the wool fine again, and it could never
be brought back to pure merino.

It seems almost sad to think that famous western Victorian
stations like Blackwood, Caramut, Banogill and Larra, which
topped the world's market for long silky merino wool year after
year, and dozens of others almost equally notable, are now
breeding crossbred sheep, because for all round purposes they
pay as well if not better, and tlie country in Victoria is getting
too rich for merinos. It is to be hoped that at least some of the
fine old merino flocks of Victoria and Riverina will be kept
intact, otherwise when the trade wants and is willing to pay fancy
prices for a fancy article it will be impossible to supply it. The
past history of these western Victorian flocks is such that those
who are lucky enough to possess them should pause indeed
before spoiling them by haphazard crossbreeding.

THE OUTLOOK GOOD.

With merchants' shelves bare of stocks, trade generally good,
and workers fully employed at continually increasing wages, the
outlook for the approaching season is a bright one. There are
many who cling to the belief that the raw material is too dear,
but with this one cannot agree, for after all the average price of
wool is very moderate, even if merino combings of fine quality
are a little above the average price of recent years. It must be
remembered that whilst wool supplies have increased about
12^ per cent during the last 15 years, the population and purchas-
ing power have far outstripped any such increase. We all regret
on this side that the woolstaplers and topmakers have had a hard
year's work for no profit and that yields have frequently not
come up to expectations.

OVERSEA FREIGHTS AND EXCHANGE.

It will be remembered that during the season 1909-10, freights
which ruled at ^d. per pound for greasy and f d. per pound for
scoured for the first three months of the year were forced up by

546 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

the big coal strike in New South Wales to f d. per pound, and §d.
per pound respectively, but when the strike ended there was a
keen demand for cargo, and the rates of freight dropped in Feb-
ruary to ^d. per pound and f d. per pound, only to rise again from
March onwards to |d. per pound, and fd. per pound for greasy
and scoured respectively. During the past 12 months there have
been no disturbing influences, and consequently no violent fluctu-
ations, but shippers have complained somewhat of the high rates
charged. During July and August the ruling rates were ^d. per
pound for greasy and |d. per pound for scoured, but when the
new clip was ready for shipment freights were raised to fd. per
pound and fd. per pound respectively, at which they have since
remained. The good old wool clippers are now almost a thing of
the past, and as in recent years nearly the whole of the cargo
was lifted by steamers. With sailing freights at y^^d. per pound
for greasy and y^g-d. per pound for scoured, and hungry mills
waiting for the wool, there was little inducement to transport by
the slower method, more especially as the higher rates of insur-
ance charged on cargoes per sailer brought the total charges
little, if anything, below the total cost per steamer.

DEMAND AND DISTRIBUTION.

The demand for Japan and the East was considerable, and now
that a very heavy import duty has been placed upon manufactured
woolen goods in Japan (as from July 1, 1911), and several new
woolen mills are being erected in that country and China, the
East promises to become an important factor in the Australasian
markets. Ten years ago Japan took but a small quantity of our
wool, all of which was in the scoured state. The feature of the
buying for that country during the past season was, however,
that mostly greasy wool was secured, both merino and crossbred,
and it is worth recording that the highest price obtained for
greasy wool in the Sydney market, viz., 16^d. per pound, was
paid by Japan for a nice line of 'New England merino. . .

Scotland and the west of England and certain well-known
French houses took the lion's share of the fine crossbreds, though
Germany secured more than usual, in addition to a big weight of
merinos. Spinners, especially in England, finding that the
Americans were very indifferent at the commencement of
the season, as to whether or not they bought any wool, took
the largest share of the best wools. Even when the Americans did
come into the market later they were not prepared to pay fancy
prices, and were often outbid by British and Continental spinners
and Scotch manufacturers, and the latter again secured the
major portion of the really superior lambs' wool, although during
the earlier months a well-known Huddersfield operator was very
insistent. As usual, Yorkshire secured the largest share of the
topraaking crossbreds, of which there was a full supply. . . .

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 547

The slackness of the American demand was the most disap-
pointing feature of the season, but, fortunately, knowing how
badly they had fared with their purchases of the previous year,
and the very unsettled state of trade in that country, growers
were fully aware of the fact that a big demand from the United
States could not be expected.

FEATURES OF THE SEASON.

Some of the outstanding features of the year's buying are :

1. The great weight of wool lifted by Great Britain.

2. The keenness of Germany at the commencement of the
season.

3. The slackness of the American demand.

4. The record prices paid for superior merino lambs.

5. The cheapness of super wools as compared with the
former year on account of the weakness of the American
demand, and the high rates obtained for skirtings as compared
with fleece wool.

THE PRESENT POSITION.

It is believed that every manufacturer of wool throughout the
world now realizes that —

1. Australasia has attained the position of the principal wool-
producing country of the world.

2. The selection of wool submitted to public auction at the
colonial centers is greater and better than in any other market,
no less than 76 per cent of the total production having been sold
locally during the past season ; and that

3. To secure a satisfactory share of the Australasian clip he
must be represented by some buyer on this side.

Messrs. Goldsbrough, Mort & Co., of Melbourne, Australia, in
their " Annual Review " speak of the clip in the following terms :

In summing up the clip the vast scope of territory from which
the wools are drawn, and the varying climatic conditions under
which they are grown, must be always borne in mind, but, speak-
ing generally, it can only be described as patchy.

The wools from Western and Southern Riverina were lacking
both in length and body, although admittedly well nourished,
even to the point of fattiness. They were finer than last season,
but carried more vegetable matter, and a great amount of tender
wool was noticeable.

Those from the Eastern side may be best described as hunger
fine.

Hay wools, while not up to the standard of last season, were
better grown than their neighbors.

Darling clips, although somewhat faulty as regard conditions

548 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUREKS.

of growth, were up to the average, those from the lower river
being remarkably robust and of excellent character.

The generous and regvilar season experienced in the South-
eastern District of South Australia was responsible for a well-
grown, sound, dense, and soft handling clip, although somewhat
heavy in yolk secretion. Strange to say, this applied to the
merino section only, the crossbred portion being much lighter in
condition by comparison.

Western district wools have rarely presented as many vagaries
of conditions of growth as the one under review. For while they
can, broadly speaking, be described as well grown and heavier
than usual, it was no uncommon thing to find tender wool, more
particularly that from the younger sheep.

The Wimmera can be congratulated on having produced one of
the best clips seen for many years, both in point of style and
general excellence.

Central Queensland wools, while not quite so showy or as
deeply grown as last year, were dry, but probably carried more
vegetable matter.

Tasmanian wools were irregular, those from the southern por-
tion of the island being rather heavier than the northern clips.

The product of Gippsland and the northeastern districts was
not quite up to last year's standard.

SOUTH AFRICA.

The production of wool in South Africa has increased with
great rapidity since the Boer war, as is shown in the following
table, the exports being considered to equal the production :

Bales.

Lbs.

1900 (war time)

1 <J02

140,000
234,000
234,000
201,000
209,000
238,000
287,000
276,000
380,000
376,000

34,944,263

79,327,840

1903

65,524,078

1904

64,372,270

1905

1906

63,473.983

70,890,386

1907

77,500,000

1908

81,144,000

1909

111,720,000

1910

110,920,000

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

549

According to Messrs. Helmuth Schwartze & Co., the imports
of Soutli African wool into Europe of late years (from the Nov-
ember 20th to ISTovember 19th period) have been as follows :

190»-10.

1908>9.

lOOT-S.

1906-7.

England (for the sales)

Continent direct

America direct

Bales.

313,471
63,265

Bales.

312,082
67,946

Bales.
227,747
47,883

Bales.
245,463
41,487

Total

376,736

380,028

276,630

286,950

The general character of these wools is described as rather
fatty and in some parts droughty.

KIVER PLATE WOOLS.

Table XXI. shows the imports into Europe of these wools for a
series of years. The business is done between July 1 and April
30 of the succeeding year. It appears from the table that the
importations have fallen off to the extent of 39,000 bales, the
reduction being 21,000 bales from Argentina and 18,000 bales
from Uruguay. Table XXI. contains a statement of the produc-
tion of River Plate wools for a period of fifteen years, the
productive season extending from October 1 to September 30
following. The season of 1909-1910 just closed is the poorest
recorded in the table, being 82,000 bales less than in the preced-
ing year, and 7,500 bales less than in the season 1900-1901,
which up to that time was the smallest recorded. This falling
off occurred mainly in Argentina, and was foreshadowed in
Messrs. Wenz & Co.'s report for the preceding year, in which
ifis said :

The whole of the republic had been affected by the bad winter,
but more particularly the south of the province of Buenos Ayres,
where in many places more than 30 per cent of the sheep and
practically all the lambs had perished.

Under date of May 1, 1911, Messrs. Wenz «& Co. say :

In the River Plate the season has been so bad up to the present
that, even with improved climatic conditions, any material
increase in the flocks is scarcely to be counted on.

550 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table XXI. — Imports of River Plate Wools into Europe between
July 1 and April 30 Succeeding, 1894 to I9I1 Inclusive.'

In thousands of hales.

Of which

Tear.

Dunkirk.

Havre.

Antwerp.

Bremen.

Ham-
burg.

Other
Ports.

Total.

from

Monte-
video.

1894

149

340

1895

133

330

1896

195

440

1897

161

351

1898

163

468

1899

221

461

1900

169

388

1901

270

1902

208

500

1903

172

410

1904

149

371

1905

132

381

1906

138

413

1907

132

389

1908

121

357

1909

217

111

100

540

110

1910

135

368

1911

110

329

1 Wool circular of Wenz & Co., Reims, May, 1910.

The production for fifteen years ^ (twelve months, October 1
to September 30) is as follows :

Argentina.

Uruguay.

Grand Totals.

Sbason of

Quan-
tity.

Ave.
weight.
Bales.

Total
weight.

Quan-
tity.

Ave.
weight,
Bales.

Total
weight.

Quan-

tity.

Ave.
weight.
Bales.

Total
weight.

1895-96

1896-97

1897-98

1898-99

1899-00

1900-01

1901-02

1902-03

1903-04

1904-05

1905-06

1906-07

1907-08

1908-09

1909-10

Bales.

a.
443,0
486,0
495,0
487,0
465,0
405,0
444,0
481,0
416,0
411,0
395,0
389,0
427,0
438,0
359,0

Kilo,
b.
380
412
417
425
429
445
445
412
420
417
417
417
417
415
413

Jfetric
Tons,
a. c.
168,3
200,3
206,5
207,2
199,4
181,0
197,6
198,4
174,7
171,2
165,0
162,2
178,0
182,0
148,4

Bales.

100,0

88,0

90,0

81,0

85,0

86,5

86,0

104,0

86,0

82,5

90,5

99,0

110,0

126,0

123,0

Kilo,
b.
466
466
466
469
470
471
470
471
470
472
450
454
460
459
458

3fetrie
Tons.
a. c.
46,6
41,0
42,0
38,0
40,0
40,8
40,4
49,0
40,4
38,9
40,7
44,7
50,6
57,8
56,4

Bales,
a.

543,0
574,0
585,0
568,0
550,0
491,5
530,0
585,0
502,0
493,5
485,5
488,0
537,0
564,0
482,0

Kilo .
b.
396
420
424
431
435
451
449
422
428
425
423
424
426
425
424.8

Metric
Tons,
a. c.

214,9
241,3
248,6
245,2
239,4
221,8
238,0
247,4
215,1
210,1
212,9
206,9
228,6
239,8
204,8

Two 00 omitted, thus 443,0 = 443,000.
Kilo equals 2.2046 pounds.
Metric ton equals 2,204.6 pounds.

•Exclusive of local consumption, which may be put at 6,000 tons (14,500 bales) for the
Argentine Republic and 1,150 tons (2,500 bales) for Uruguay.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW. 551

Messrs. Wenz & Co. report as follows :

BUENOS AYRES.

The winter in the Argentine Republic was again very dry in
many districts ; the clip was consequently irregular, though on
the whole rather better than last year. Southern wools were
well grown, but not bright, those from the coastal districts being
fairly burry, those from further inland free. Wools from the
North and West showed signs of the drought and were scarcely
better than last year. Pasto fuerte wools were short, thin and
earthy.

Shearing having commenced about a fortnight earlier than
last season, a few small lots began to come in early in October,
the regular arrivals coming forward a fortnight later. Germany
and France started the buying at prices which were about on a
par with those paid a twelve-month earlier. Towards the end of
the month the market became easier, especially for faulty descrip-
tions ; the inquiry was mainly for medium grades, coarse qual-
ities being neglected, until early in November England started
buying and with America also coming into the market, the hesi-
tation shown at the opening disappeared. Merinos were in good
demand. December opened with renewed hesitation on the part
of buyers in general ; good wools declined, while faulty sorts met
with very little demand. With the drop in the future markets
prices fell away still further, the year closing 5-10 per cent lower
for fine and 10 per cent lower for low crossbreds as compared
with opening rates. At this point of the season business was
interrupted for a week by a strike of the carters. With the
opening of the London January series owners raised their prices ;
the Continent recommenced buying, low and medium grades
advancing 5 per cent. By the end of the month half the clip had
changed hands. During February values firmed still further and
at the end of the month were on a par with opening rates.

In March faulty descriptions were again somewhat easier,
French buyers holding off, but the news from London and
Antwerp again gave a fillip to the market and prices for good
wools were well maintained. The season closed about the middle
of April.

Lambs' wool was in larger supply than last year, the free
parcels always selling more readily than the fleece wool ; burry
sorts were heavy of sale. French buyers took the bulk of the
offerings.

The large quantities of wools from the Province of Entre Rios
sold in the Central Market were mainly taken for German
account. The clip from this district was a fair one.

Bahia Blanca. — The clip came forward rapidly and, meeting
with good inquiry, changed hands more quickly than last season.
Fine crossbreds were in particular demand for French account.

552 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Germany again taking the bulk of the merinos. Wools from the
Pampa, Rio Negro, and Rio Colorado were not so well grown and
rather heavier than last year ; the crossbreds from the Province
of Buenos Ayres were distinctly better ; those from the country
round Bahia Blanca were less faulty, better grown and lighter
than last year. Prices were on a par with those ruling in Buenos
Ayres.

The prospects for the new season in the Argentine Republic
may be considered normal. It is true not mucli rain has fallen,
but it is too early to say whether this will have any effect on the
production.

Imports into United States of Argentine Wools for Years 1904-

1911 inclusive.

Fiscal Tear.

Class I.

Class II.

Class III.

Total.

Poitnds.

Pounds.

1904

18,018,443

100,548

10,049,069

28,168,060

1905

41,094,617

362,562

6,238,388

47,695,567

1906

36,352,480

5,815,447

42.167,927

1907

19,247,683

94,866

3,852,659

23,195,208

1908

14,311,498

1,909,787

16,221,285

1909

51,601,420

106,239

6,672,175

58,379,834

1910

27,331,068

37,799

3,713,317

31,082,184

1911

14,014,295

96,326

3,780,755

17,891,376

The table above gives the imports of Argentine wools into the
United States for the eight years 1904-1911 inclusive. With
one exception, 1908, the total this year is the smallest in the
series. The falling off, as compared with the previous year, was
in the Class I wools ; that is, in wools having merino blood, more
or less remote, of which only 14,014,295 pounds, as against 27,331,-
068 pounds, were imported. There was a small increase in the
imports of both Class II and Class III wools, but the total of
all classes fell off from 31,082,184 pounds in 1910 to 17,891,376
pounds for this year.

Uruguay.

The season in Uruguay was not quite equal to its predecessor,
the production being 56,400 metric tons, as against 57,800 in the
previous year, a falling off of 1,400 metric tons, equal to 3,086,440
pounds. The total production for the year, exclusive of the

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

553

amount reserved for local consumption, estimated at 2,500 bales,
equalled 12,433,944 pounds.
Messrs. Wenz & Co. say :

In consequence of the revolution in Uruguay, the clip was
shorn several weeks earlier than usual ; the work was done
hurriedly and without proper care.

Merinos generally were lacking in staple, besides being yolky
and none too well conditioned. Crossbreds, as a whole, were better
and freer from fault than last year.

Allowing for larger consignments than usual of Salto wools to
the Montevideo market, the total production is estimated at
about 120,000 bales.

Imports of Uruguayan Wools into the United States for the Years

1904-1911 INCLUSIVE.

Fiscal Year.

Class 1.

Class II.

Class III.

Total.

1904

Pounds.

112,208
7,044,752
5,083,195
5,856,437
1,604,221
5,759,852
8,768,627

711,525

Pounds.

Pounds.
112,208

1905

1906

619,377

76,180

3,995

174

7,740,309
5,807,190

1907

5,856,611

1908

1,604,221

1909

108,380
21,158

5,868,232
8,789,775

1910

1911

711,525

554 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table XXII. — Number of Sheep in the World According to the
Most Recent Available Statistics and Estimates.

Country.

North America :

United States : Continental ' 52,183,923

Noncontiguous, except Philippine Islands :

Hawaii 102,098

Porto Rico 6,363

Total

Total United States.

108,461

Canada

Newfoundland

Mexico

Central America . . .

Cuba

British West Indies
Dutch "
Gaudeloupe

Total North America.

South America :

Argentina

Brazil

Chile

Uruguay

Falkland Islands

Colombia

Other South America.

Total South America.

Europe :

Austria Hungary :

Austria 2,621,026

Hungary 7,904,634

Bosnia-Herzegovina 3,230,720

Total

Belgium

Bulgaria

Denmark, Iceland, and Faroe Islands.

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Italy

Montenegro

Netherlands

Norway

Portugal

Roumania

Russia in Europe

Number of Sheep.

52,292,384

2,631,820

78,052

3,424,430

123,627

9,982

31,653

20,155

11,731

6,331,450

58,623,834

67,211,754

4,224,266

26,286,296

715,651

746,000

409,000

99,592,967

13,756,380

235,722

8,130,997

1,338,345

904,447

17.456,380

7,703,710

4,568,158

11,162,708

400,000

889,036

1,393,488

3,072,998

5,655,444

45,840,361

1 Census April 15, 1910, includes 12,681,170 lambs born after January 1, 1910.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

555

Table XXII. — Continued.

Country.

Europe : continued.

Saxony

Servia

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

Turkey

United Kingdom, including Isle of Man, etc

All other Europe

Total Europe

Asia :

British India :

British Provinces 20,189,949

Native States 3,855,667

Total

Ceylon

Cyprus

Japan

Philippine Islands

Russia in A sia

Turkey in Asia

Total Asia .

Africa :

A Igeria

British East Africa

German East Africa

German South West Africa

Madagascar

Rhodesia

Soudan (Anglo-Egyptian)

Tunis

Uganda Protectorate

Cape of Good Hope

Natal

Orange Free State

Transvaal

All other Africa

Total Africa

Oceania :

Australia

New Zealand

Total Australasia

Other Oceania

Total Oceania

Total World

Number of Sheep.

58,185

3,160,166

15,471,183

1,010,217

209,997

10,000,000

31,839,341

26,000

183,901,261

24,045,626

96,335

315,766

4,085

30,428

23,356,557

45,000,000

92,848,787

,632,177
,105,000
,560,000
300,722
333,454
205,715
952,950
585,027
471,297
,807,168
,068,996
,481,251
,011,906
777,351

50,293,014

92,241,226
23,732,947

116,034,173
16,236

116,050,409

601,691,272

556 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The preceding table contains the most recent available statis-
tics of the number of sheep in the world. The United States
shows a reduction of about 5,000,000 in number. These figures
are taken from the United States Census reports and the reduc-
tion from the figures of previous years is partly explained by the
Census Bureau as arising from the change in date of time of
gathering the figures. In the last Census they were taken as of
the 15th of April, while at preceding inquiries the date has been
June 1. The figures include the sheep and young lambs. As
many of the lambs are born between the dates mentioned, the
number is much less than would have appeared if the census had
been taken at the later date. The difference is probably not less
than 5,000,000.

No figures are given for Brazil or China, and in other countries
the figures given are largely estimates. It is probable that com-
plete statistics would make the world's total not less than
700,000,000.

Table XXIII. presents a statement of the world's wool pro-
duction, compiled from the latest official reports and estimates,
from which it appears that the total is not less than 2,920,000,-
000 pounds. Of this the United States furnished one-ninth,
Argentina about the same, Uruguay something more than one-
third as much, while Australia furnished an amount greater
than these combined or 820,000,000 pounds, a quantity 6,000,000
pounds in excess of the total production of all Europe including
the United Kingdom. Including South Africa, which furnished
about 125,000,000 pounds, these countries supply nearly all the
merino and English blood wools. Most of the wools from Asia,
some from Europe, and many from South America, are of a
coarse low grade, used generally for making carpets, common
blankets and similar goods.

ANNUAL WOOL REVIEW.

557

Table XXIII. — Wool Production of the World.
From, the Latest Official Returns and Estimates.

Country.

Nonh America :

United States

British Provinces

M exico

Central America and West Indies

Total North America

South America :

A rgentiua

Brazil

Chile

Peru

Falliland Islands

Uruguay

All other South America reported

Total South America

Europe :

United Kingdom

Austria Hungary

France

Germany

Spain

Portugal

Greece

Italy

Russia (Europe)

Turkey and Balkan States

All other Europe

Total Europe

Asia:

British India

China

Russia (Asiatic)

Turkey (Asiatic)

Persia

All other Asia reported

Total Asia

Africa :

Algeria

British Africa

Tunis

All other Africa reported

Total Afnca

Oceania :

Australasia

All other Oceania reported

Total Oceania

Total world

Wool.

Pounds.

318,547,900

11,210,000

7,000,000

1,000,000

337,757,9

327,166,640

1,130,000

27,745,080

9,940,000

4,324,000

124,339,440
5,000,000

499,645,160

142,
■11,
78,
25,
52,
10,
li,
21,

320,
90,
18,

877.011
600,000
000,000
600,000
000,000
000,000
000,000
500,000
000,000
500,000
000,000

814,077,011

60,000,000
50,000,000
60,000,000
90,000,000
12,146,000
1,000,000

273,146,000

33,184,000

125,000,000

3,735,000

13,000,000

174,919,000

820.012,449
100,000

820,112,449

2,919,657,520

558 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Table XXIV. contains the official statement of the imports
of wool and wool manufactures, both quantities and values,
together with the duty paid and the average value per unit of
quantity and the average ad valorem rate of duty as calculated
by the Bureau of Statistics, Department of Commerce and Labor.
From these items another column has been prepared which
shows the duty paid value of each class of imports reported in
the table. No such statement has before been published and it
is believed it will be of value in comparing imports from abroad
with our domestic production.

The table will be found at the close of this number of the
Bulletin.

Wm. J. Battison.

CANADA AK EXAMPLE AND WARNING. 559

CANADA AN EXAMPLE AND WARNING.

WHAT INADEQUATE PROTECTION HAS DONE TO THE WOOLEN
INDUSTRY BEYOND OUR NORTHERN BORDER.

The wool manufacture in the Dominion of Canada is as
old, and theoretically it should be as prosperous, an industry
as the wool manufacture in the United States. Yet the
entire production of all the Canadian mills is less than that
of a single American company. Two out of three of the
inhabitants of the Dominion are clothed wholly in foreign
fabrics, as against less than one in ten of the American
people.

What is the cause of this extraordinary difference ? Fifty
years ago the two countries were virtually on an equality so
far as this great branch of textile manufacturing was con-
cerned. One-half of the woolen clothing of Americans of
1861 was imported from Europe, and the other — in price
and quality generally the cheaper — half was produced in
American mills. That same condition was substantially true
of Canada. There were several hundred woolen mills in the
Dominion engaged in the manufacture of good, sound, low-
priced or medium-priced cloths, for which the native wools
were especially adapted.

Immigration of Scotch and English farmers and shepherds
and of Scotch and English operatives had brought to the
Dominion the skilled personnel of a successful industry.
Water power was abundant. Land and climate favored the
growth of excellent clips of wool. Sufficient capital existed
for the starting of the relatively small establishments which
were then in vogue. Wages in the Canadian woolen mills
were and have continued to be lower on the average than in
the United States, though distinctly higher than in the
United Kingdom. The Canadian mills have been managed
with shrewdness and ability, by men of thrift and courage.
Many of these men, finally despairing of success at home,
have moved to the United States, and here have become

560 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

successful manufacturers. So, too, with the operatives. A
considerable proportion of the best spinners, weavers, and
dyers in American mills to-day have found their way to these
mills via Canada.

BY WAY OF CONTRAST.

In 1861 an adequate protective tariff, in which wool and
its manufactures were included, was enacted for the Ameri-
can people by their government. Under this economic pol-
icy, the progress of the American wool manufacture, as
measured by the aggregate value of its products, has been as
follows :

18G0 $73,454,000

1870 199,257,000

1880 238,085,000

1890 270,527,000

1900 296,990,000

1905 380,934,000

1910 507,219,000

Under a policy of late years of inadequate protection, the
wool manufacture of Canada, carried on by people the most
nearly like Americans of all the races on the globe, has not
only failed to increase in any important way, but for some
time has been at a standstill, and is now actually decreasing.
Read these significant words of the Montreal Woolen Mill
Company, announcing the abandonment of its business, in
December, 1908:

We have been in business for the past thirty years and
have always paid good interest on the capital invested till the
last four years. Since the present political party came into
power, they have lowered the duty, and have practically
annihilated the woolen industry. During their stay in power
they have, through their free trade policy, been the cause of
75 per cent of the woolen mills closing, and if they stay in
power much longer there will be none left and the once big-
gest Canadian industry will be no more. We have during
the last four years lost money, but have been hanging on
expecting a change in government which did not come, and
we have now decided to liquidate our plant while we can
pay 100 cents on the dollar.

CANADA AN EXAMPLE AND WARNING. 561

Do you know what the duty on second hand woolen
machinery is into the States ; if same is low enough we may
be induced to move our machinery and go over, providing
we could secure a good location at a reasonable figure.

A former Canadian manufacturer now established in the
United States recalls, as a partial list of other Dominion mills
that have succumbed, the Hespeler Mill at H'espeler, an
important 22-set concern, the Waterloo Mill at Campbellford,
the Cornwall Mill at Cornwall, the Globe Mill at Montreal,
the Beauharnois Mill, the Hawthorne Mills, the Loomis
Mills, the Perth Woolen Mill (changed into a felt mill), the
Streetsville Mill, the Markham Mill, and the John Dick Mill
at Coburg (largely changed over to bagging). It is stated on
good authority that few of the surviving Canadian woolen
factories are actually earning dividends, but that the mana-
gers are holding on in hope of a lessening of the Imperial
preference that has been so fatal to their industry.

CANADA HAS FBEE WOOL. '

And all this despite the fact that Canadian manufacturers
have long enjoyed what is sometimes pictured as the inesti-
mable boon of free wool. Nominally there is a low duty of
three cents a pound on a few kinds of wool supposed to be
most nearly competitive with the wools grown in Canada,
but foreign wools of these kinds are not imported or no
duties are collected. Only -16.00 was paid in wool duties
in Canada in 1907, and nothing in 1908. The Canadian
mills have the free range of the " markets of the world."
This has been of no avail, in the lack of adequate protection
on the finished products.

Meanwhile, how have Canadian farmers and stockmen
fared? There in the Dominion is an empire of cheap lands,
as perfectly adapted to wool growing as any region on the
globe. There are veteran shepherds from the downs of Eng-
land and the hills of Scotland. Canadian-grown mutton is
famed among epicures. The fiber of Canadian wool, though
not of the finest, is notably strong and durable. The country

562 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

is almost wholly free from the grave epidemic diseases which
pla}^ havoc with the flocks of South America, South Africa,
and Australasia. " Old Country shepherds are often amazed
that disorders which are chronic among sheep in England
and Scotland disappear of themselves in a generation after
the animals are brought to Canada." ^

CANADIAN SHEEP DISAPPEARING.

Yet not only the woolen mills but the sheep themselves
are disappearing from the Dominion. The decrease is so
sharp and startling that the Minister of Agriculture of the
late Liberal Cabinet had ordered that an investigation be
undertaken hy the Live Stock Commissioners. Here are the
records of the number of sheep in Canada and in the United
States throughout a generation :

Canada. >

United States.

Year.

Sheep.

Year.

Sheep.

1871

3.155,000
3,048,000
2,563,000
2,510,000
2,100,000

1870

27,786,000
42,192,000
40,876,000
39,938,000
38,622,00(1
41,999,000

1881

'1880

1891

^1890

1!)01

1900

1905

1910

' Canadian Textile Journal, Volume XXVII., page 114.

Within this period, the population of Canada doubled and
the population of the United States somewhat more than
doubled. The Canada of 7,000,000 people has less than one
sheep for every three inhabitants. Nine States of the Amer-
ican Union in 1905 had each more sheep than all Canada.
Montana in 1910 produced 33,600,000 pounds of wool. The
province of Alberta just across the line, produced, according
to the Alberta Wool Growers' Association, only 400,000
pounds ! Yet Canadian officials and ranchmen assert that

' " Canada's Wool and Woolens," page 12.

CANADA AN EXAMPLE AND WARNING. 563

Alberta and Saskatchewan are naturally as favorable for
merino and crossbred sheep as Montana or Wyoming.

The decline of sheep growing and the decline of wool man-
ufacturing in Canada have naturally and inevitably gone on
hand in hand. The 2,645 woolen looms of 1899 had fallen
to a nominal 2,034 in 1907 ; the number of spindles had
shrunk from 194,086 to 188,254.^ Of this machinery in exist-
ence only a part was in actual operation. Many mills were
entirely closed. Canadian mills manufactured a smaller
quantity of Canadian wool in 1908 than they had consumed
in 1871. The total consumption of foreign and domestic
wool in the Canadian wool manufacture in 1908 was only
13,000,000 pounds. In the United States the amount of
damestic and foreign wool consumed in 1909 was 574,000,000
pounds. That is, the United States, with twelve times the
population of Canada, consumed forty-four times as much
wool in its native manufacturing.

HOW 30 PER CENT PROTECTION FAILS.

The total value of the })roduct of all the woolen mills in
Canada is not far from 'f 12,000,000 a year. Imports of for-
eign goods of a foreign price of $21,400,000 supply about
two-thirds of the clothing of the Canadian people. " Fifty
years ago," says the "Canadian Textile Journal," "the very
reverse was the case as regards both the wool grower and
the manufacturer, and the reverse is also the case in the
United States to-day, where over three-fifths of the raw wool
manufactured in the country is grown on the backs of Amer-
ican sheep, and where out of $400,000,000 worth of woolen
goods annually consumed, according to the Census of 1905,
$380,934,000 worth were made in the country."

The protection given to woolen cloths and dress goods in
the United States, above the duty compensating manufactu-
rers for the duty on raw wool, is 60 and 55 per cent ad valorem.
This is the rate of the Aldrich-Payne tariff law. It was the
rate of the Dingley law preceding. The protection given to

* Canadian Textile Directory.

564 NATIONAL, ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

cloths and dress goods in Canada is nominally 35 per cent;
that is, this is the general tariff rate. But the Imperial pref-
erence to similar British goods has reduced this rate in prac-
tice to 80 per cent. This is the protection which Canadian
mills receive against the mills of Yorkshire. It has proved
totally inadequate. The Canadian wool manufacture is
breaking down, although, to quote again the " Canadian Tex-
tile Journal," " the average Canadian mill is as well equipped
as the average Yorkshire mill, except for its adaptability for
the production of shoddy goods." A 30 per cent protection
does not bridge the difference in the cost of production
between Canada and the United Kingdom — and because it
does not do so it is almost equivalent in its consequences to
downright free trade.

CLOTHING "cheaper" ONLY IN QUALITY.

Not only is this inadequate protection closing Canadian
woolen mills to the ruin of Canadian wool growers, but it is
degrading the clothing of the Canadian people. " The mere
fact," says the "Canadian Textile Journal," "that numbers
of firms in Galashiels, Huddersfield and other medium and
fine cloth centers have lost their Canadian trade in recent
years, while Batley, Dewsbury and other centers of the
shoddy trade have enormously gained in this market is a
simple proof of this." One of the best known of Canadian
wool manufacturers, in a letter to a friend in the United
States, remarks the growing importation and use in the
Dominion clothing trade of " a low line of goods, very
striking in appearance but cheap in price — quality does not
enter into the question as it used to do. This makes it hard
for mills like our own, devoted to the manufacture of pure
wool goods. I have noticed lately that one or two of the
older mills have changed over to lower-priced stuff, using
cotton and shoddy."

Canadians themselves deplore the disappearance of durable
native fabrics. Tariff reduction has not made their clothes
any " cheaper " except in quality. Some Canadians manifest

CANADA AN EXAMPLE AND WARNING. 565

an increasing preference for attire from the United States.
Apparently tliey conclude that though American clothes cost
more they are worth more. Canada has become of late years
the best outside customer of the great manufacturing clothi-
ers of this country. " There are over fifty towns in Ontario,"
a Canadian journal says, " where one or more clothing mer-
chants make a specialty of American clothing. At the
Christmas sales of 1909 one-half of the stock in one of
Toronto's retail stores was advertised as American." " If
these goods," this journal asks, " are not considered better
by the Canadian purchasers, how is it that the United States
manufacturers are able to ship them here ? " These Amer-
ican goods are not one-twentieth of Canada's total imports ;
but they represent a significant revolt against the great bulk
of transatlantic importations. Partial free trade in woolen
goods has proved a curse and not a blessing to Canadian
consumers.

In other words, inadequate protection robs Canada of a
great national industry once strong and prosperous, gives her
people " cheaper " and poorer clothing, and benefits no one
but manufacturers overseas, who are enabled to underbid
Canadian mills by a superior ability in the manipulation of
substitutes for pure wool, and by the starveling wages of
their operatives. " Even the unskilled American negroes,"
declares a writer in a current English magazine,^ " earn more
and live better than the skilled English artisans." British
Board of Trade reports show that 1,171,216 workers in the
textile trades earn each less than $4.50 in a week of full
employment.

A WARNING FOR THE UNITED STATES.

This survey of the dying Canadian wool manufacture is of
a great deal more than historic or academic interest for the
United States. A few months ago a bill reducing the pro-
tection of American woolen mills almost to the rate which
has proved ruinous to Canada passed the Senate and House

* " The Nineteenth Century and After " for September, 1911, page 474.

566 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of Representatives, and was met by the veto of President
Taft. It is assumed that a similar bill will be given the
right of way in the House at the present session of Con-
gress. When the bill of the late session was introduced, its
authors themselves declared that, allowing for the 20 per
cent duty on raw wool, it would reduce the actual protection
of American woolen mills to 32.55 per cent ad valorem.
This is to be compared with a Canadian protection of 30 per
cent, under which the once strong and prosperous woolen
mills of our Northern neighbor, with lower wages, abundant
capital, and excellent machinery, are swiftly being disman-
tled and sold.

No American public man can face these hard facts of
Canadian experience herein related without a full realization
that if he votes to reduce the protection of American wool
manufacturing to 32.55 per cent or any approximate rate he
is deliberately voting to destroy that industry without any
compensating benefit to the American people, and without
any other possible result except the enrichment of some
importers in New York and some manufacturers in Europe.

WINTHROP L. MARVIN.

OBITUARY. 567

©bituarp.

JOHN NEILSON CAEPENDER. {With portrait.)

Mr, John Neilson Cakpender, president of the Norfolk &
New Brunswick Hosiery Company of New Brunswick, N. J.,
died on November 21, 1911, having undergone, a short time
before, a serious surgical operation. Mr. Carpender was in his
sixty-seventh year. He was a native of New York City, the son
of Jacob Stout and Catharine Neilson Carpender of Revolution-
ary lineage. His mother was the granddaughter of Colonel John
Neilson, who fought in New Jersey under Washington.

Mr. Carpender was graduated from Rutgers College in 1866,
and the year after became a member of the New York Stock
Exchange, in association with his brother under the firm name
of Carpender & Carpender.

In 1879 he connected himself with the management of the
Norfolk & New Brunswick Hosiery Company, in which he was
a large stockholder. In 1885 he became the president of the
company and held that post until his death. He was an able
financier as well as manufacturer, and most diligent in attention
to his business. He was the active manager of the hosiery com-
pany in immediate direction of its affairs, and commanded the
high regard of all of his business associates and of the employees
of the company. His fellow-citizens honored him for his public
spirit. Mr. Carpender was nominated in 1880 as Sinking Fund
Commissioner for New Brunswick, and was reappointed regularly
every five years thereafter by the Supreme Court Justice of the
circuit.

He was a loyal son of Rutgers and had missed only one com-
mencement for forty years. He was a trustee of the college, a
trustee of the Delta Phi Fraternity, and one of the founders and
president of the Rutgers Club.

In his economic views Mr. Carpender was an earnest protec-
tionist and an active Republican. He served for several years
as a member of the Executive Committee of the National Asso-
ciation of Wool Manufacturers, by whose oflEicers and members
he was held in esteem for his sagacious judgment and high char-
acter.

568 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

He was a devoted layman of the Protestant Episcopal Church,
and had been a delegate to its general conventions. He was
president of the Church Club of the Diocese of New Jersey;
chairman of the American Church Building Fund ; treasurer of
the Episcopal Fund of the Diocese of New Jersey, and senior
warden of the Church of St. John the Evangelist of New Bruns-
wick, He was a director of the Children's Industrial Home ; a
director of the National Bank of New Jersey ; president of the
John Wells Memorial Hospital, and a member of the University
Club and the St. Nicholas Society of New York, and of the Sons
of the Revolution.

Mr. Carpender was married to Anna Neilson Kemp of New
York City on April 9, 1874. Mrs. Carpender survives him, and
six children — John Neilson Carpender, Jr., Mrs. Franklin
Duane, Anna Kemp Carpender, Henry de la B. Carpender, Arthur
Schuyler Carpender, and William Carpender.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ]VnSCELLANY. 569

(JHtiitorial atttr 3Intiustrial JHisrcllang,

THE ELECTIONS OF 1911.

A SUMMARY OF THE "OFF YEAR" RESULTS — ON THE WHOLE
A GAIN FOR THE PROTECTIVE PRINCIPLE.

So far as the protective tariff policy was an issue in the vari-
ous State elections of November 7, 1911, the balance of advan-
tage rests with the protectionist cause. In the legislative
contests in New York and. New Jersey, where the candidates of
the protectionist party were victorious and the complexion of the
Legislatures was reversed, it is probable that local and not
national considerations were paramount. Nevertheless, this
means that in two important States where free traders, or tariff-
for-revenue-only men, were recently elected to the United States
Senate, only protectionists can now be chosen, and that the
Senate can receive from these two great States no more reenforce-
ment to the growth of an anti-protectionist majority.

In Maryland, where the protectionist party won the Governor-
ship, the fight was more distinctively local than national. In
the State election of Kentucky the result was a decisive triumph
for the elements opposed to protection, which now regain the
ascendency lost several years ago. This result, determined
largely by local rather than national causes, involves a moral
and not a material loss, for the Senatorship from Kentucky
which is next to be filled is already held by an anti-protectionist,
who will be succeeded by another of the same way of thinking.

In Rhode Island, where the textile manufacturers, through a
newly-formed Tariff Publicity League, went frankly into the
fight and talked directly from platform and press to the work-
people. Governor Pothier, a manufacturer himself, has been
reelected by a plurality seven times as large as he had last year.
Here is a gain of unquestioned significance for the protectionist
policy in a typical industrial Commonwealth. Rhode Island
might well be described as a cluster of mill towns, and these
mill towns have proclaimed that they have had more than
enough of agitation and uncertainty. One of the two Rhode

570 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Island Representatives is now "an anti-protectionist elected from
a district which includes the great textile manufacturing city of
Providence. This election apparently means that he will be
displaced in the national contest of next year by a man who will
work and vote for the welfare of the people who send him to
Washington.

The real character of the woolen and cotton bills of the
special session of the present Congress was carefully explained
to Rhode Island voters, and this was explained also so far as
conditions would permit to the wage-earners in the manufactur-
ing towns of Massachusetts. There a plurality of 35,000 recorded
last year for an anti-protection Governor, Mr. Foss, had to be
overcome. This was not quite accomplished, but the plurality
was cut down by 27,000 — a very great gain, practically all of
which was due to the issue of protection versus tariff for revenue
only. New Bedford, where the most efficient protectionist cam-
paign was made, completely reversed itself, transforming an
anti-protectionist majority of last year into a majority eqvially
large on the protection side.

According to a computation of the Home Market Club, in the
nine distinctive textile cities of Massachusetts, where the woolen
and cotton industries are of sufficient importance to be itemized
in the State report on manufactures for 1908, the protectionist
vote of 1911 showed an increase of 17 per cent over 1910, and
the anti-protectionist vote a loss of more than 6 per cent. This
same proportion if maintained throughout the State would have
elected the protectionist candidate for Governor, and such a
result would have been accomplished but for the lethargy of the
country towns whither the campaign of education on the tariff
had not been extended.

Like the election of the Republican candidate by a greatly
increased majority in the Congressional district of the late Mr.
Loudenslager of New Jersey, who had only 800 plurality a year
ago, these results show that among the manufacturing population
in general the tide now sets distinctly toward the protection
cause. This tendency may not be powerful enough to avert an
anti-protectionist victory in the country at large in 1912, but it is
undeniable that such a tendency now exists, and that the odds
are against the tariff-for-revenue-only idea in the great, populous
industrial States of the North Atlantic seaboard.

It is not to these States, however, that those public men who

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 571

seek to overthrow the protective system are looking for their
most powerful support. The hope of the present anti-tariff
propaganda lies in a coalition of Southern States with Middle
Western States, in most of which the dominant interest is still
agriculture and not manufacturing. If the South and the West
can thus be brought together, it is the dream of those who are
promoting the combination that the North and East will be over-
whelmed in the national election even if New York and the
States adjacent should be carried for protection.

The very name of the measures which were passed at the last
session of Congress is descriptive of this combination. They
were the Underwood-La Follette bills. All of them were frankly
sectional in their character. They were aimed straight at the
great manufacturing industries of the older Commonwealths.
Those who framed this legislation apparently believe that the
national spirit is at low ebb, just as it was in the decade preced-
ing the Civil War, and that the time is ripe for appealing to
local prejudice and passion, and for setting one part of the coun-
try against another. There is unfortunately much confirma-
tion for this view in the sectional alignment over the late tariff
bills in House and Senate.

However, these bills must now have further consideration, and
there is time for the advocates of protection as a genuinely
national policy to make it clear to all men that when the West
joins the South in striking down Northern and Eastern manu-
factures, the West is destroying its best markets for its food-
stuffs and crude materials — indeed, so far as raw wool is
concerned, its only market. Greenbackism, Populism, free sil-
verism, all in turn, have come up out of the West and have been
pervaded with a sinister sectionalism. All of these previous
movements have appealed to an assumed Western prejudice and
hate toward the older States and institutions of the North
Atlantic seaboard. All these movements have loomed up at first
as deadly menaces of the prosperity and unity of the republic,
and yet all in turn have vanished before a clearer understanding
of the facts, and a final recognition of the essential community
of interests of the American people, North, South, East, and
West.

So it will be with this latest appeal to section against section.
This movement in turn has reached its maximum strength in
Congress and the country. Other Underwood-La Follette bills

572 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTUKERS.

may for the time being command a majority in Congress, but the
trend of opinion is markedly against them. The great West, as
history shows, can be swept away by gusts of discontent ; but it
cannot permanently be deluded by the notion that any section of
this country is sufficient unto itself. Any legislation that favors
Europe at the expense of the industrial North and East of our
own country will in the long run prove as disastrous to the
farmers as to the manufacturers. This was writ large the last
time the scheme was attempted, in the election returns of 1894,
when the anti-protectionist party suffered a Waterloo as complete
in the Mississippi Yalley and the Northwest as it did in New
England, New York or Pennsylvania. These election returns of
1894 deserve the prayerful consideration now of Chairman
Underwood, Senator La Follette, and their associates. They are
a vivid handwriting on the wall.

BOSTON WOOL TRADE ASSOCIATION.

AN IMPORTANT NEW ORGANIZATION IN THE BROAD
INTEREST. OF THE BUSINESS.

On November 21 a meeting of the wool trade of Boston was
held at the office of Messrs. Brown & Adams, No. 273 Summer
street, and an organization was formed to be known as the Boston
Wool Trade Association.

The following officers were elected to serve for one year :

Jeremiah Williams, President.

Jacob F. Brown, Vice-president.

Geo. W. Benedict, Secretary and treasurer.

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.

Jeremiah Williams, Ludwig Eisemann,

Jacob F. Brown, Arthur E. Gill,

Wm. R. Cordingley, Summit L. Hecht,

William E. Jones.

The object of this Association, to quote from the by-laws, is
"To promote the interest of those persons, tirms and corporations
engaged in the purchase and sale of wool, to cooperate for the
improvement of conditions relating to the business and establish

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 573

uniformity in the customs and usages of said business and to
foster a frank and friendly intercourse among its members and
with those with whom they have dealings."

This movement was started as somewhat of an experiment and
it is very gratifying to those who were most active in promoting
it to find the hearty response with which their efforts have
been met throughout the trade. Important questions of mutual
interest are continually coming up for discussion in every line of
business and the advantages of an organization where frank and
free expression of opinions can be had between its members must
be apparent to all. It is not the purpose of this Association to
attempt to dictate to any member how he shall conduct his busi-
ness, but to promote the feeling that, in abroad sense, whatever is
considered for the best interests of the trade as a whole must
necessarily accrue to the benefit of each individual member.

Notwithstanding the fact that the Association is yet in its
infancy, a vigorous campaign has already been launched against
the use of sisal twine in tying up fleece wools, and hearty
cooperation has been obtained from almost all the agricultural
colleges and publications throughout the country. If no other
results are secured than the correction of this one serious defect
in preparing wool for market, it will have been sufticient justifi-
cation for the formation of this Association, without which no
concerted action could have been taken. This, however, is only
one of many abuses which will be corrected in time and the
advantages of united action will become more and more apparent,
redounding to the best interests of all concerned.

In addition to the provision for active membership, the by-laws
provide that any person in good standing outside the Boston wool
trade who is directly interested in the raising, merchandising or
manufacturing of wool is eligible to associate membership in the
organization, and it is to be hoped that many wool growers and
manufacturers will eventually become members and in this way
come to realize that the wool growers, the wool distributors and the
wool manufacturers have many points of mutual interest and the
more that the " Get-together " spirit is encouraged the more
successful will each be in his own particular branch of the
business, as each needs the cooperation of the other.

The following are a resolution and a notice sent out by the new
Association to wool growers and dealers :

574 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL, MANOFACTURERS.

BOSTON WOOL TRADE ASSOCIATION.
NOTICE TO WOOL GROWERS AND DEALERS.

The following resolution was adopted by the Boston Wool
Trade Association, November 21, 1911 :

Whereas : it is the desire of this Association to increase the
value and popularity of all American grown wool with the manu-
facturers and to encourage not only the raising of better wool but
to improve the manner in which it is prepared for market, and
Whereas : the wool grown east of the Mississippi River and also
in the States of Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri comes in more
direct competition with foreign wool than that of other States, and
Whereas : it is necessary to notify growers and store-keepers as
early as possible regarding changes from present methods, and
Whereas: it is deemed advisable to establish a standard whereby
all parties interested may be on an equal basis ; it is therefore
Resolved : that fleeces grown east of the Mississippi River and also
in the States of Minnesota, Iowa, and Missouri shall not be con-
sidered merchantable unless rolled into a firm bundle, flesh side
out, free from tags or parts of other fleeces, tied with a hard glazed
twine not heavier or larger than what is known in the twine trade
as size 4|^ — 3 ply India, using not more than three single strings
each way of the fleece and all knots firmly tied. Wool put up
otherwise than in this manner shall be considered unmerchantable
and shall be subject to a discovmt of at least one cent per pound.

Voted : that the Executive Committee take such action as they
may deem necessary to thoroughly inform the growers and
others.

George W. Benedict,

Secretary Boston Wool Trade Association.

TO WOOL GROWERS AND DEALERS.

The competition of foreign wool with American grown is
increasing each year, and as we are all interested in home indus-
tries and want to make them successful and profitable, any move
in that direction should have mutual support. There is a need-
in this country for certain kinds of foreign wool whose importa-
tion is not affected by duty or domestic supply, but barring these
the greatest competition is for the same grades that are raised
east of the Mississippi River and in Iowa, Minnesota, and Mis-
souri. Only the best is imported but it is not so much any
special characteristic of breeding or peculiarity of fiber that
gives it preference as it is the manner of preparation for market.
Manufacturers now-a-days want wool for specific purposes. They
do not make goods from what they happen to get. Foreign wool
comes liere graded as to quality, each fleece by itself, free of tags
and skirts, practically free of vegetable matter and seldom tied.
Against this the domestic grower offers his product often thrown

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 575

together any old way, tags usually included, sometimes bits of
black, dead and cotted, more or less chaff and burrs and the
whole thing surrounded with a large quantity of so-called " wool
twine." This list looks large but it sifts down to two main sub-
jects — care in bundling and honesty in the contents. The net
cost of proper preparation is small. The use of sisal twine was
willingly stopped by growers some two years ago and resulted
in winning back mills that previously had refused to buy because
of its use. More recently, however, manufacturers of twine
have been putting out a commodity known as " wool twine "
which is not at all satisfactory. It is so loose and rough in its
formation that many of the fibers cling to the wool and cause
defects in the goods. Besides it is unnecessarily heavy in weight.

We are informed that to get the proper article in hand it is
necessary to post the local supply houses in season in order that
they may place their orders with the manufacturers of twine
ear]y. We have made a canvass of the manufacturers to see
what will prove satisfactory and we wish you to use your efforts
in not only notifying the farmers but also the dealers of twine
of the correct commodity. Any hard glazed twine not exceeding
one-eighth of an inch in diameter is suitable. There is manufac-
tured, however, in large quantities and readily available, what is
known to the twine trade as " India " three ply No. 4-| size. The
wholesale price at this time is only two cents per pound more
than the poorer quality of so-called " wool twine," but as a
pound contains nearly double the yardage the India will prove
cheaper in the end.

The matter of including tags and other foreign matter is
covered by State laws. The neglect of enforcement has brought
about its own punishment. Worsted manufacturers cannot use
tags. If included in fleeces they must either re-sell them or
stop buying fleeces ; many prefer to cut out fleeces. Of course
tags will not bring as much by themselves as when hidden in the
fleeces, but the disrepute fleeces have fallen into because of the
fraud has cost growers more than the few cents when taken out.
In order that some standard may be established and both pro-
ducer, consumer and middleman may stand on an even basis, the
Boston Wool Trade Association has passed the enclosed reso-
lution.

This circular is being distributed as widely as possible, but
there are so many interested that it is hard to reach every one,
so we hope that you will get your local papers to print this
resolution and your granges and local associations to help. It is
a matter of mutual benefit.

Boston Wool Tkade Association,

George W. Benedict, Secretary.

576 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

PREPARATION OF WOOL FOR THE MARKET.^

By C. Mallinson, Flockmaster and Wool Expert ( Transvaal) .

The following paper, prepared by Mr. C. Mallinson of the
Transvaal for the " Agricultural Journal of the Union of South
Africa," is very timely, now that the attention of our home flock-
masters is being directed by wool dealers and manufacturers and
especially by the new " Wool Trade Club " of this city to the
necessity of a better preparation of wool for market. The sug-
gestions of Mr. Mallinson are commended to the consideration of
the trade and will doubtless be found of great value.

Wool production and the profitable rearing of sheep are indus-
tries so intimately connected with the commercial welfare of
South Africa that it seems to me to be incumbent upon those
having the advantage of many years' experience in the trade to
further in every way in their power the development and
improvement of the Transvaal flocks by imparting the results of
such experience to those directly concerned in sheep raising. I
am writing mainly with the object of giving a word of encourage-
ment and advice to the smaller farmers, who are far in the
majority in this country, and, consequently, a good deal I have to
say may appear to some an unnecessary repetition of the ABC
of their business. I am confident, however, that to many who
may consider themselves well grounded in the details of sheep
farming, it may yet be distinctly advantageous to carefully read
and digest the conclusions arrived at on matters essential to the
successful conduct of wool growing.

Casual inspection of wool show-rooms on almost any sale day
will readily convince the visitor that I am not unjustly decrying
the quality of a large proportion of the main-staple in this
Province in describing it as poor to medium only. That there
should not be occasion for such unfavorable comment cannot, I
think, be gainsaid when the special suitability of so great an area
of the Transvaal for the production of a fairly superior type of
merino wool is taken into account. Individual effort on the part
of every farmer can alone remedy this undesirable state of affairs,
and it is within the power of every wool grower by steadily, if
slowly, increasing the weight (this does not mean excessive yolk

'From the " Agricultural Journal of the Union of South Africa," September, 1911.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 577

or foreign matter) of his fleeces and improving the general type
of his flock to further establish the reputation lately earned by
South African wools on the world's markets. Every ounce added
to the average weight of a clip, and every farthing gained in the
average price, may be regarded almost entirely as direct profit on
the year's working, so small a difference is there between the
cost of tending a high class and low class flock.

To many readers of this article it will no doubt be somewhat
of a surprise to learn that an extra penny per pound over the
wool grown in the Transvaal alone would, taking the weight of
9,730,587 pounds produced in the Province for the twelve months
ended 30th June, 1910, amount to no less than £40,544, 2s. 3d.,
and if to that be added a theoretical gain of only one pound per
head over the 2,019,614 woolly sheep of the Province at the
average price of, say, 6d. per pound, there would be an additional
£50,490, 2s., or a total of £91,034, 4s. 3d., to place to the credit
of farmers in excess of the gross sum actually realized for the
year's clip.

It is my object, therefore, to compile in concise form a series
of suggestions and hints which would be of service to a wool
grower in enabling him to make the utmost of such opportunities
as may be available to him in respect to the shearing of his
sheep and the preparation of the wool for the market. The.
season is approaching fast when every farmer will be shearing
his sheep, and I can imagine no better time to offer an article of
this nature. Shearing time is the time when every sheep-breeder
harvests the fruit of his work for the whole long year, and
nobody can administer too much care to obtain the best results
for his year's labor.

GENERAL.

My intention is to give a brief treatise on the getting up of an
average South African clip of, say, up to thirty bales in such a
way as to attract the greatest attention from buyers. For this
purpose I must necessarily enter into a few side issues pertaining
to my subject to demonstrate more plainly to readers what I
really intend to convey to their minds.

Pirst of all, then, one requires a fairly high class and uniform
flock to produce good, even, and attractive wool. This could
only be obtained by judicious selection, i.e., breeding from the
best of your stock and rejecting from the breeding ewes all

578 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

inferior and faulty ewes. This is one, if not the most, important
factor in successful sheep-breeding. The action of rejecting
inferior sheep from the general flock is known by tlie term of
" culling."

I cannot here even attempt to enter fully into the question of
culling, but can at least offer a few recommendations for general
guidance.

Firstly, then, grown sheep should be classed in the wool just
before shearing. Be careful not to cull either for frame alone or
for wool alone. Let the happy medium be hit upon and adhered
to, and gradually the eye and hand, working in intelligent sym-
pathy, will tell you with seldom failing accuracy by the " look "
of the animal and the " grip " of its wool whether the particular
slieep has to be more carefully examined for possible rejection.
Be especially careful in culling the breeding flock to distinguish
between " wet " and " dry " ewes. Perchance that rather feeble
sheep there is the mother of a sturdy lamb, and, therefore, a
better payer, all things considered, than that broad-backed, well-
fleeced ewe whose udder on examination proves she has brought
none but herself to the yard to add to the year's returns. In
culling, as a whole, always take carefully into account the season
the sheep have just passed through. It is a common saying, but
a very true one, that a good deal of breeding goes in at the
•mouth. Accept as your guiding principle always "the survival
of the fittest." Make provision for sufficient nutritious feed for
your sheep both during the summer and winter months to
develop the very best that is in them and keep up their constitu-
tion. Starvation and impure water will not only bring down the
constitution of even the best sheep, but also affect their wool-
producing properties to a remarkable extent.

SHEARING AND PKEPARATION OF WOOL FOR THE MARKET.

Now I come to the point I had in view with this article,
namely, " the shearing and preparation of the wool for the
market."

The operation of shearing calls for a few remarks from me,
and I think tlie following essentials could be profitably taken to
heart by my farmer friends concerned in sheep-breeding.

SHEARING.

(a.) Proper accommodation should be provided in which to
carry on the work of shearing. There should be ample space for

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 579

every shearer to carry on the operation conveniently and to
spread out the fleece as he goes along, and enough light to allow
the work to be comfortably done. The floor or shearing-board
should preferably be of wood, but any other hard material would
do. It should be kept scrupulously clean and free from foreign
matter and swept — after every sheep shorn — and the fleece
picked up before the shearer starts on his next sheep.

(b.) The catching pens should also be kept clean. The farmer
should make it a point to keep the dust down in every possible
way. The abominable practice of mustering the whole mob of
sheep near the shed (or the poor substitute for a shed that is too
often found in the country) and filling the catching pens by
catching the sheep one by one should be dispensed with. It not
only does the sheep terrible harm, but also spoils the whole clip.

(c.) Sheep should, under ordinary circumstances, never be
shorn until the wool is of twelve months' growth. They should
be perfectly dry at the time of shearing.

(d.) When a shearer is selecting his sheep he intends to
shear, it is most important that he should carry the sheep from
the catching pen to the shearing floor and place it on its rump.
This plan does away with that cruel method of dragging the
sheep from the catching pen by the hind leg. The belly should
then be shorn off and detached from the fleece and placed behind
the shearer so that the boy picking up the bellies can see it and
put it into the basket placed on the board for that purpose.

The shearer, after having removed the belly-wool, should then
clean the sheep between the hind legs. The left leg should then
be shorn as far as the britch. The next thing is to take off the
fleece in one piece. The shearer should start on the right side
of the neck at the point of the brisket and shear in a straight
line to the right ear. The wool should not be cut but broken
through with an outward movement of the arm. Second cuts
should be avoided as much as possible. The shearer should
shear from right to left. All cuts should be dressed with some
kind of disinfectant before the sheep is let go. It is desirable
that the sheep should not be branded with tar or paint.

PICKING UP AND ROLLING.

The fleece after having been taken off the sheep's back should
be carefully picked up by gripping the two britches, one in each
hand, and gathering in the rest of the fleece by an inward sweep

580 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

of each arm. By retaining hold of the two britches and throw-
ing the rest of the fleece gently away from him, the picker up
should be able to spread it neatly, staple side up, and flesh side
down on the table, without causing any break in it.

The wool roller, who in the Transvaal is often at the same
time picker up, having the fleece before him, should first gently
shake it so as to detach any second cuts or fribs. His next duty
is to take off all dirty points, any inferior parts of the fleece, all
foreign matter in the shape of grass seeds or burrs, etc. After
the fleece has been skirted, i.e., all the dirty points and locks and
wool which have been stained by manure and urine taken oft', it
should be rolled in the following way : Throw over the one side
so as to double the fleece, then throw in the neck, then the britch,
turn in the sides and pull over the back, then start rolling from
the britch up to the shoulder. This way of rolling will expose
the best part of the fleece and help the buyer to come to the
correct value of the clip. This done the fleece should be passed
over to the wool classer's table. The classer then, according to
quality, places the wool in the different bins set apart for that
purpose in any properly equipped wool shed.

CLASSING.

The term "wool classing" is generally applied to the work
carried on at the farm during shearing time when the wool is
being prepared for the market. " Wool sorting " refers to the
work done at wool warehouses and factories where all the fleeces
of an uneven quality are broken up and divided into the different
qualities.

The object of classing is to get up the wool in such a way as
to make it attractive. In order to obtain the best results the
classing must be done skilfully, honestly, and last, but not least,
very carefully. All trouble and skill will amount to nothing if
the work is not done scrupulously clean and carefully. The
wool must be classed in such a way that the requirements of the
different sections of buyers, who are the representatives of man-
ufacturers, are complied with. For instance, " Combers " want
a combing wool, i.e., a wool with a fair length of staple and elas-
ticity, and sound enough to stand a reasonable amount of tension.
" Carders," on the other hand, are satisfied to buy the shorter
and more tender, or " clothing " wool, while American buyers, on
account of the heavy import duty (11 cents = 5^d. per pound).

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

581

can only afford to buy absolutely the lightest and best yielding
wools so as to pay duty on as little dirt as possible. Some
buyers look for fine wool, while others must have coarser quali-
ties to suit the factories they are buying for.

All wool is valued by the buyer on the basis of the clean
weight it will produce when scoured and ready for use. Suppose
the clean value is 2s. per pound, the greasy value should be in
proportion to the yield as per following table :

If yielding

55%

48%

42%

36%

13d.
oid.

18^d.
33|d.

lUd.
5|d.

17d.
35id.

lOd.

old.

15W.
37d.

8id,

Add United States import duty

Cost greasy pound in America

Cost clean pound in America

5id.

14d.
39d.

The classer should be conversant with the i-equirements of the
trade and do his work honestly and carefully if the farmer is to
receive the full benefit of his clip. It stands to reason that a
properly got up clip will inspire buyers with confidence, which
means better competition and still better prices. To attain this
object too much care cannot be taken. The buyer must be able
to fix the price on the wool with a minimum amount of trouble.
This is impossible for him to do unless the wool is classed in
such a manner that the contents of a bale are more or less uni-
form, of the same character, quality, and marketable value.
This done, it is an easy matter for the competent woolman to
make up a true estimate of a lot or lots and to cut his prices
very fine. If this is not the case and the bale filled indiscrimi-
nately as to condition and quality, it is impossible for any
expert, be he as clever as can be, to make a reliable valuation.
He can only estimate roughly what proportion of good and bad
wool is in the bale, and consequently only fix a nominal price
for same, in which case he always leaves a fair margin to be on
the safe side in the event of miscalculation.

It will be quite clear to everybody, after the above explana-
tion, why wool, even a clip of 1,000 to 2,000 fleeces, should be
systematically skirted and carefully classed. Dealing with this
matter it is comparatively simple to class a big clip, but not so
when you only have a few bales at your disposal. In the first

582 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

case the classer is justified in dividing the wool into as many
classes as he considers necessary to maintain the proper standard
for the different qualities, while in a clip of 1,000 to 2,000
fleeces discretion and sound judgment are required to make a
nominal standard so as to prevent too many small lots, which as
a rule are often neglected by the great bulk of the buyers.

A SMALL CLIP.

A small clip of, say, from 300 to 500 fleeces does not require
much classing. All that is required is that all the lightest con-
ditioned, most bright and attractive fleeces be placed into the top
or first lot, while the second sort is constituted of all the heavier
conditioned, duller, and less attractive ones. Any very dis-
colored and inferior fleeces would be better broken up amongst
the skirtings.

Dealing with the skirtings, or pieces, it is advisable to sort
these into first and second pieces. The first pieces should con-
sist of all the biggest and cleanest wool ; the second pieces of all
the dirty edges or trimmings from the firsts. This should be
done on a table set apart for that purpose. It is impossible to
lay down a hard and fast rule for skirting fieeces, as everything
depends on the merits of the fleece spread on the table. Where
there are no burrs or excessive grass seeds, the skirtings should
be as light as possible. It is not advisable to skirt too heavily.
Much harm is sometimes done by overskirting, that is, by taking
off too much wool from a fleece.

The belly-wool should also be carefully trimmed and all stains
and fatty bits removed and packed separately.

STAINED WOOL.

I would specially suggest the keeping of the stained parts by
themselves, because the mixing of the good white wool with the
discolored at once reduces the value of the former to anything
from Id. to 2d. per pound. Any one with a practical knowledge
of the trade will see the force of this statement, for they know
all stains have to be dyed at one stage or another, while if it is
white it can go straight away to be combed into a clean top.
Whereas if the white wool is mixed with the faulty parts, it is
only fit for producing a discolored top, which can only be dyed
into darker shades, while if the top is of good color it could be

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 583

dyed into any light shade that may be required. The same
thing applies to the woolen as well as to the worsted trade.

LOCKS.

Locks consist of second cuts and fribs that fall through the
wool tables during the processes of wool rolling and piece sort-
ing, as well as the locks swept from the shearing floor. There is
a marked difference between the table locks and the sweepings
from the shearing floor. The first named are much cleaner and
lighter than the last, and if the quantity permits should be baled
separately. Otherwise, only one line must be made. Care
should be taken to run the sweepings over a fine wire screen so
as to remove as much dirt and foreign matter as possible.

WOOL TABLE.

Of course to be able to treat a clip properly, a good wool shed
with proper light and rolling tables is absolutely indispensable.
The best way to construct a rolling table is to make a frame
4 feet, 6 inches broad by 9 feet long of 6 by 1-inch boards, sup-
ported by legs of 2 feet, 8 inches high, made from timber
4 inches by 3 inches, and covered with 1-inch wooden battens,
1 inch apart from one another, the edges of which should be
smoothed and rounded off on top so as to allow all second cuts
and locks to drop through and prevent the wool being caught
and the fleeces torn to pieces.

PRESSIKG.

Every farmer should possess a wool press. Too much impor-
tance cannot be attached to the general appearance of the bales
as well as the wool. The neatness and outward appearance of a
bale shows some indication of a certain amount of care and
attention having been paid in this direction. I might also men-
tion, in the matter of transport from the interior to the coast,
more bales properly pressed could be carried in one truck. This
also applies to shipping, unless the wool is dumped. It is con-
sequently a saving of money during transit.

BRANDING.

It is advisable to brand the wool bales with clear, stout letters
on one of the sides and on the bottom. On the side the follow-

584 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ing details should appear : (1) The name or distinguishing mark
of the owner ; (2) with the name of the farm or district beneath
it ; (3) then follows the class of the wool, and (4) the number of
the bale.

And on the end (1) the owner's mark, (2) name of the farm or
district, and number of the bale, as follows :

On the flat side of the bale

D.O.A.
Ermelo.

A A

Combing.

On the end of the bale

D.O.A.

Ermelo.
1.

In conclusion, I say emphatically that it does pay, and pays
well, to get up a clip properly. When there is carelessness
shown the value of the wool will always suffer. No man is
going to pay for carelessness, and I would like to emphasize that
fact both upon small and large growers alike.

It is very plain to be seen that a clip which at first sight
appears to be smart and well got up will at once receive the full
attention of a buyer. When valuing he will look carefully at
the wool and not place a sporting valuation on same, whereas if
a clip appears wanting and there is a mixture of bellies and
pieces along with the combing wool, it will be valued at a price
that is in harmony with the allowance which must afterwards be
made for such wool.

There can be no deceiving a buyer on this head. He knows
that contingencies arise such as increased shrinkage when the
heavier parts have been rolled in good combing wool.

Farmers should read this article very carefully and try to
follow out the suggestions made, and they will soon find out that
it means to them a considerable improvement in their banking
account.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 585

BLANKETS: YOEKSHIRE AND OTHER.

Among the most common productions of the wool manufacture,
blankets and flannels stand at the head. They are the fabrics
whose manufacture the newly-established factory in a new
country almost invariably first attempts. They are essential to
the comfort and health of the people, and at the same time are
among the simplest of wool productions.

Still much skill is required in their manufacture, and many,
both blankets and flannels, are works of art. Blankets range
from a very coarse, heavy fabric made from cow and other hair
on a cotton warp and suitable only for horse coverings and simi-
lar use, to those made of the highest grade of wool, light in
weight, white in color, fine in material and fit for the use of the
most fastidious. The blanket industry in the United States,
according to the last census, produced 10,625,000 square yards of
a mill value of $4,655,000. The mills are found in every wool
manufacturing State, but are principally in New England, though
there are some very important establishments in the far and
middle West.

The following article taken from the '' Yorkshire Observer,"
Bradford, England, gives an interesting account of the present
condition of this branch of the wool manufacture in that country :

A FLOURISHING INDUSTRY.

One of the oldest branches of the wool industry in this part
of Yorkshire is blanket making. Some very interesting facts
relating to its antiquity were forthcoming at a notable trial in
the courts a couple of years ago, as to the application of the
term " Witney " to blankets of a certain kind of finish which
were made in Yorkshire as well as in the little Oxfordshire
town of Witney. The decision in that case was clearly against
common sense, and once more showed that " the law is a hass."
It was not alleged that blankets made in Witney were better
than those made in Dewsbury or Heckmondwike ; it was not
denied that the peculiar finish, which is the distinctive mark of
the Witney blanket, was arrived at first in Yorkshire, or that
the Witney makers sent their sons to Yorkshire to learn how it
was done. It was even shown that one Yorkshire firm alone
makes more blankets in a year than all the Witney blanket
manufacturers put together. But the law held that somebody

586 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

asking for a Witney blanket might suppose that it was made
there, and would be defrauded if he were kept equally warm by
a Yorkshire blanket — as if people who buy Eccles cakes or
Brussels sprouts are entitled to have them from Eccles or Brus-
sels ! The effect of the judgment was to prohibit the use of
the term in the retail trade except as a description of a blanket
actually made at Witney. And yet every day Yorkshire blanket
manufacturers are getting orders from London, Manchester, and
Glasgow for "Witneys," just as if the question of title had
never been raised.

AN OLD INDUSTRY.

As has been mentioned, blanket making is an old industry in
Yorkshire. Until fifty or sixty years ago blankets were, of
course, like other fabrics, woven on hand-looms. These have
now all gone ; but in the district in which they were common —
the valley of the Calder from Hebden Bridge to Wakefield — all
the blanket-making mills except the few at Witney and one or
two in Scotland are to be found. Indeed, the industry is much
more concentrated now than it was a few years ago. During
the first decade of the new century quite a number of blanket-
making firms have failed or gone out of the business for other
reasons, and no new ones have started. The fact is that blanket
making is not a particularly profitable industry. It has no
changes in fashion to help it. There is little room for originality
in designing a blanket, and that which every one caii imitate
soon comes to be made at very nearly bare cost. It would be a
great mistake, however, to suppose that blanket making is a
decaying industry. It is nothing of the kind. For the last
year or eighteen months every blanket maker has been " pulled
out of the place " for deliveries, and every blanket loom has
been fully engaged.

A survey of the Board of Trade statistics of the exports of
blankets for the past ten years is curiously interesting. It is an
exceedingly fluctuating trade. For instance, to Venezuela and
Colombia in 1906 we sent 53,000 pairs of blankets, and in 1907
54,000 pairs, while in 1909 we sent but 8,300 pairs and in 1910
9,800 pairs. The trade with Japan has varied in an amazing
manner. In 1901 we sent Japan 10,600 pairs, in 1904 — no
doubt for the soldiers engaged in the war — we sent 308,700
pairs. And for the four years subsequent to 1904 we sent the

EDITOKIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

587

Japanese 78,000, 38,000, 61,000, and 45,000 pairs of blankets,
whereas the exports for the last two years have dropped to
3,800 and 4,600 respectively. Possibly Japan was " fed up " on
blankets and some time must be allowed to work off stocks.
It must, however, be remembered that Japan is making a deter-
mined and successful effort to establish manufactures at home
and that blanket making is one of them. It is evident that
occasionally merchants ship recklessly and so there may be iu
the following years what looks like a complete collapse. This
was notably the case with Chile, to which country in 1907 we
sent 45,000 pairs of blankets, while in the three years since we
have only sent a little over 18,000 pairs all put together.

DECLINING MARKETS.

Hostile tariffs are understood to have affected the trade, and
the case of Australia is mentioned specifically. In Australia
there is a protected blanket industry. By the Commonwealth
tariff which went into operation in August, 1907, the duty on
blankets was raised to 25 per cent. Here is a statement of the
number of pairs exported to Australia and Tasmania during each
of the last ten years :

1901 271,300

1902 184,400

1903 127,900

1904 108,700

1905 120,600

1906 102,100

1907 107,700

1908 131,100

1909 94,100

1910 111,700

The Indian trade has, it is said, been affected by Government
regulations in regard to coolies. These must be provided with
so much rice a day and so many blankets by the employer of the
coolie labor. The employer complies with the letter of the order
and so buys the cheapest blanket he can find, most probably a
German one. In the five years 1901-5 we sent to British India
280,000 pairs of blankets ; in the live years 1906-10 we only sent
163,000.

Still there are countries with which our trade is expanding.
South Africa is a great and increasing market. Last year's
figures were a record. We sent 185,000 pairs to the Cape, 95,000
to Na^al, and 81,000 to the Transvaal. Included in these figures
were many thousand Kaffir blankets so-called, which are really
rugs woven with colored yarns on a jacquard loom. And gen-
erally our export trade in blankets is in a healthy condition.

588 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL IMANUFACTURERS.

Foi" the first three years of the decade (the year 1904 was so
exceptional that it should not be included in arriving at averages)
the average value of our blanket export to all countries was
£302,500 per annum, and for the last four years, a period which
includes the fat year of 1907 and the particularly lean year of
1908, the value of our blanket exports was £331,700, while last
year it amounted to no less than £446,000.

As regards the home trade the testimony of makers and
merchants is emphatic that the judgment in the Witney case has
done us no harm in Yorkshire. A few London houses who really
thought they could only get the best blankets from Witney have
had their eyes opened, and some of the merchants in Bradford
and Manchester have carried on a regular campaign of advertis-
ing Yorkshire blankets which has been productive of the best
results. True, the Witney makers have also been busy, but it
is not the overplus of their trade which has kept the Yorkshire
makers so busy. The working classes of this country have been
better off — more fully employed if the rate of wages has not
been much higher — during the past five years than ever before,
and blankets come near to being necessaries of life in this part
of the world. There are, it must be admitted, blankets and
blankets. Lancashire makes thousands of blankets which are all
cotton, but these are no good once they have been washed and
they are really made to sell rather than for service. And to
meet the demand which does exist for a very low priced article,
some of the Yorkshire firms turn out blankets the materials in
which are at least partly wool, which cost no more than two
shillings. But this is an exception, and the bulk trade in York-
shire is done in blankets which range from about 7s. to lis. 6d.
a pair wholesale. There is, of course, a wide range in widths,
weights, and even in lengths. Irishmen, for instance, have a
fancy for shorter blankets than can be sold in England, while the
most ordinary blanket for Australia is a single width dyed a rich
crimson or scarlet. It is these differences which account for the
fact that whereas the blankets sent to Australia average some-
where about 7s. the pair, those we send to South Africa run to
about lis. the pair.

THE YORKSHIKE TRADE.

The strong position of the Yorkshire blanket trade is, how-
ever, largely due to causes of the same kind as have operated of

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 589

late years to lift the worsted and woolen industry generally into
such great prosperity. Although blanket making may be regarded
as mechanically one of the simplest branches of the textile trade,
success depends upon the utmost care in regard to many appar-
ently trivial details and, perhaps more than anything, upon the
judgment of the maker in the use and blending of his raw
material. The blanket manufacturer is most catholic in his
tastes in this respect. Leaving aside the combing wools, whether
merino or long wools, the blanket maker can find a use for
almost anything. New Zealand and Buenos Aires crossbred,
English, Welsh, and Scotch wools, China, East India, and North
African wools, skin, slipe, and noils — aye, cotton and shoddy
too — hardly anything comes amiss. Broadly speaking, there are
two great classes of blankets — the cloth blanket and the raised
or, as it has been commonly known, the Witney blanket. The
former are chiefly made at Stainland, Elland, Sowerby Bridge,
and higher up the Calder Valley as far as Hebden Bridge. The
raised and the colored blankets are made about Dewsbury, Heck-
mondwike, Thornhill, and Mirfield. The familiarity of York-
shire with all the wools of the world and the fact that Bradford
is in closer touch with the world's wool producing centers than
any other place in the world gives us an undoubted advantage in
the supply of raw materials. Liverpool is perhaps the blanket
maker's chief depot for imported wools, and it is interesting to
note that as regards quantity the offerings at the last Liverpool
series of East India wool sales in September constituted a
record. Still the blanket makers are not happy. There was a
time when Dewsbury and Batley were able to rule the Liverpool
market, now they " don't count." Bradford buyers, French and
Belgian buyers, attend the sales, and the wool is always keenly
competed for by other branches of the trade, especially of late
by the hosiery yarn spinners.

PROCESSES OF MANUFACTURE.

Once the manufacturer has detei-mined upon the exact blend
he requires for a given make of blanket, the process of blending
is entirely mechanical — there is no preliminary sorting or
washing as in the worsted trade. The wool pile is first wetted
to prevent dust, and the material is then ready for the " opener,"
a large rapidly revolving cylinder furnished with strong teeth
and enclosed in a casing. From the opener it passes to the

fi90 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

scribbler, another large revolving cylinder with teeth, surrounded
by smaller cylinders also furnished with teeth and revolving in
close proximity to but not in contact with the main cylinder. In
the feeding of these machines it is of the utmost importance
that the supply should be regular and even, and so automatic
weighing devices are adopted which ensure the delivery of a cer-
tain weight of material on the feed apron for every ascertained
number of revolutions. In the same way the wool is sprinkled
automatically with a small quantity of oil to facilitate the sub-
sequent operation of carding. It is at this point that for the
lower qualities of blankets cotton or shoddy are introduced.
From the scribbler the material is taken off as a sliver, and so
it passes to the cards, of which there may be two or three sets.
The cards, of course, finally deliver the material as rovings, still,
however, without any twist. The spinning is always done on the
mule.

In the weaving of blankets there is no call for anything but
the simplest mechanism, but the dimensions of the loom are
sometimes enormous. Blankets are frequently woven 18 quar-
ters wide. Cotton warps are very commonly used, even in the
better qualities, as their use helps to prevent the subsequent
shrinking of the blanket. It is usual to weave a colored border
in the selvage, and, of course, thirty, forty, or more blankets are
woven in one piece. If the colored border is required at the top
and bottom of the blanket, the weaver introduces a shuttle of
colored weft at the right point and for the required number of
picks. Up to this point no efEort whatever has been made to
cleanse the material of which the blanket is made, though neces-
sarily in the carding not only are the burrs and " shivs "
removed, but a considerable quantity of sand and dirt also.
Hence as it comes from the loom the blanket piece is a whitey-
brown, iinattractive looking cloth, which might do for "charity
petticoats " or floor cloths, but is very far removed from the
delightfully fleecy white blanket which absolutely suggests and
seems to defy the veriest blizzard of a Canadian winter. After
it leaves the weaving-shed, however, the blanket has to endure
such a scouring as no other fabric encounters. It is soaked and
pounded for hours in the fulling stocks by enormous mallets of
oak, and then run alternately and for a long time through baths
of hot and cold soap and water, the suds being constantly wrung
out, only that the blanket may again be plunged into the bath.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 591

All this severe treatment is designed, of course, to shrink the
blanket and render it " full," and this it does most effectively,
but incidentally also it results in a perfect cleansing. When
finally rinsed and dried the blankets are stoved in sulphur to
bleach them, and afterwards, in fine weather, they are stretched
on long wooden frames out in the fields to '' cool."

The " raising " of a blanket is the finishing touch which gives
it appearance and distinction. It is only the better qualities
which can be got up to perfection with the long fleecy nap which
is so attractive. The raising used to be done by hand, long after
machinery was used for other processes, but one Moser intro-
duced first an improved teazle gig and afterwards invented the
wire-raising machine. It was this machine, first used in York-
shire, which revolutionized the trade, and it is this machine
which produces what is called the Witney finish. It is, of
course, possible to subject a blanket to such sevei'e treatment in
these finishing processes as to impair its wearing qualities, but as
a matter of fact the blankets made in Yorkshire for the average
home trade draper are unequalled by those made anywhere else
in the world.

UNITED STATES CENSUS, 1909.

SHEEP OF SHEARING AGE ON FARMS APRIL 15, 1910, AND
WOOL PRODUCED.

PRELIMINARY STATEMENT OF THIRTEENTH CENSUS STATISTICS
ISSUED BY THE CENSUS BUREAU.

Washington, D.C, December 11, 1911.

Statistics relative to sheep reported on the farms of continen-
tal United States at the Thirteenth Decennial Census, April 15,
1910, compared with those of the Twelfth Census, June 1, 1900,
and the figures for wool produced in 1909 and 1899, are contained
in an ofiicial statement issued to-day by Director Durand of the
Bureau of the Census, Department of Commerce and Labor.
It is based on tabular summaries prepared by Dr. John Lee
Coulter, under the direction of Dr. LeGrand Powers, Chief
Statistician for Agriculture, in the Bureau of the Census.

The table on page 596 shows, for the United States as a whole
and its nine main geographic divisions, the number of farms
reporting sheep and the percentage which this is of all farms. It

592 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

shows also the number of sheep of shearing age and the number
of such sheep per farm reporting sheep. In parallel columns is
shown the number of fleeces, their weight and average weight,
their value and average value, and the average value of the wool
per pound.

In making a comparison of the reports of sheep and wool at
the censuses of 1910 and 1900, the difference in the dates of
enumeration and the periods covered by the enumerations should
be remembered. The census of 1900, taken as of June 1, secured
a report of wool produced during the preceding 12 months —
that shorn in the fall of 1899 and spring of 1900. The census
of 1910, taken as of April 15, enumerated the product of the
calendar year 1909, as provided by law. Each report is, how-
ever, for a period of 12 months, and no material error can come
from the comparison.

The report for 1910 is preliminary and subject to such slight
changes as may result from further correspondence. A small
percentage of the schedules were either slightly defective or
incomplete, some reporting wool produced in 1909, but no sheep
on hand April 15, 1910, and some reporting sheep of shearing
age on the farm, but no wool produced in 1909. The report pre-
sented is, however, complete and substantially accurate, inasmuch
as imperfections of the enumeration were corrected by corre-
spondence and by the use of averages obtained from the perfect
reports.

DECREASE IN NUMBER OF SHEEP.

There were 610,912 farmers in the United States who were
reported by the enumerators as keeping sheep in 1910. They
had 39,644,046 sheep of shearing age on their farms April 15,
1910, and in 1909 produced 42,320,580 fleeces of wool, weighing
289,419,977 pounds, valued at $65,472,000. The excess in the
number of fleeces shorn during 1909 over that of sheep on hand
April 15, 1910, is due in part to the fact that a limited number of
sheep in some States are shorn twice during the year, and also,
in still gi eater measure, to the fact that large numbers of animals
in all sections are shorn each spring by the farmers before selling
them for slaughter; thus an enumeration of sheep of shearing
age on hand always shows a smaller number than the number of
fleeces shorn in the preceding year. This difference is slightly
greater for an enumeration on June 1 than for one on April 15,

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 593

owing to the larger number of sheep sold after shearing and
before enumeration. This fact is indicated by a comparison of
the data for 1910 and 1900.

The number of fleeces (42,320,580) reported for 1909 was
1,678,649, or 3.8 per cent, less than that (43,999,229) reported for
1899-1900, although the number of sheep of shearing age on
hand April 15, 1910, was only .5 per cent less than the number
reported on June 1, 1900. The difference in the rates of decrease
is doubtless a close measure of the number of sheep slaughtered
or sold for slaughter under average conditions between April 15
and June 1 ; and therefore the number of sheep of shearing age
on farms June 1, 1910, was doubtless not far from 3.8 per cent
fewer than that on the corresponding date ten years before.

INCREASE IN WOOL PRODUCTION IN 1909.

Comparison with the figui-es for 1900 shows that although the
total number of wool-bearing sheep decreased .5 per cent, the
farms reporting sheep had on the average 13 more per farm in
1910 than in 1900, the figures being 65 and 52, respectively.
This is accounted for by the fact that there was a decrease of
152,606, or 20 per cent, in the number of farms reporting sheep.
Only 9.6 per cent of all farms report sheep now, while 13.3 per
cent of all farms had sheep in 1900. It is clear, therefore, that
the industry is considerably more concentrated than in 1900.

Notwithstanding the decrease of 3.8 per cent in the number of
fleeces, there was an increase in the aggregate weight of all
fleeces from 276,567,584 pounds in 1899-1900 to 289,419,977
pounds in 1909, a gain of 12,852,393 pounds, or 4.6 per cent.
This was due to an increase of one-half pound in the average
weight per fleece, from 6.3 pounds in 1899-1900 to 6.8 pounds in
1909.

The total value of wool produced increased from $45,670,000
in 1899-1900 to $65,472,000 in 1909, a gain of $19,802,000, or 43.4
per cent. As already noted there was some increase in quantity,
but far more important in determining this change in values was
the increase in the value of wool from 17 cents per pound in 1900
to 23 cents per pound in 1910.

MOUNTAIN DIVISION LEADS IN WOOL PRODUCTION.

Although only 2.7 per cent of the 610,912 farmers reporting
sheep are in the Mountain division, they produced nearly half, or

594 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

47 per cent, of all wool reported for 1909. This is a larger pro-
portion of the total than they produced in 1899-1900, 43.3 per
cent. Of all farmers reporting, 36.2 per cent are in the East
North Central division, but they produced only 16 per cent of all
the wool. These two divisions reported nearly two-thirds of the
total wool produced, and approximately two-fifths of the farmers
reporting. The Pacific divisipn comes third, producing 11.8 per
cent of the wool. A relatively small part of all wool produced
comes from the other divisions, New England reporting only .8
per cent.

INCREASES AND DECREASES BY GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS.

In comparing the figures for the several geographic divisions
at the two censuses two very significant movements are clearly
defined. The West North Central and Mountain divisions show
increases in the number of farms reporting sheep and in the
number of sheep, while all other divisions show decreases, usually
in both of the items.

The number of farms reporting sheep increased 4.4 per cent
in the West North Central division and 29 per cent in the Moun-
tain division. In contrast, the West North Central gained 11.7
per cent in number of wool-bearing sheep and the Mountain
division 8.5 per cent. Because of these changes the average
number of sheep of shearing age increased from 31 to 33 per
farm reporting in the West North Central division, while the
average in the Mountain division decreased from 1,421 to 1,195
per farm. The number of fleeces shorn and the weight and value
of wool made large increases in both divisions.

There was a decrease in number of farms reporting sheep in
all seven other divisions, accompanied by a decrease in the
number of wool-bearing sheep in all except the East South Cen-
tral division, where an increase of 1.6 per cent is recorded in the
number of sheep, large decreases in Alabama and Mississippi
being more than counterbalanced by increases in Kentucky and
Tennessee. Decreases in the number of fleeces accompanied the
decreases in wool-bearing sheep.

AVERAGE WEIGHT OF WOOL PER FLEECE, BY DIVISIONS.

Increases in the average weight of fleeces are recorded in all
divisions of the United States, except the South Atlantic and

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 595

East South Central, where decreases of one-tenth of a pound per
fleece are recorded.

The highest average weight is found in the Mountain division,
7.3 pounds per fleece. Next in order are the East North Central
and Pacific divisions, with 7.2 pounds, followed by the West
North Central division with 6.9 pounds. The average weight
shades off to 6.6 pounds in the Middle Atlantic States, and 6.3
pounds in New England, and to a minimum of 3.9 pounds in the
East South Central division.

VALUE OF WOOL PER POUND AND PER FLEECE, BY DIVISIONS.

There is considerable variation in the average value of wool
reported by the farmers. The average value per pound for the
United States as a whole was 23 cents in 1909. In the New
England, Middle Atlantic, South Atlantic, and East North
Central divisions the average value was 29 cents in each division.
In the East South Central division it was 27 cents. The values
in States Avest of the Mississippi River were considerably lower.
The average value per pound for the West North Central division
was 25 cents and for the West South Central, it was 22 cents.
For the Mountain division it was 20 cents and the Pacific division
only 19 cents. The average thus decreases more or less gradually
as one proceeds toward the West. In several of the far western
States a minimum of 17 cents was reached.

The highest average value per fleece was ^2.11 for the East
North Central division, with the Middle Atlantic division a close
second with an average of $1.93. These high averages come
from a high average weight per fleece combined with a high
average value per pound. Next in order are the New England
division with an average of $1.79 and the West North Central
with $1.71. These four divisions, formerly included in the
North Atlantic and North Central divisions, form a contiguous
group. The lowest averages were in the East South Central,
$1.05, and West South Central, $1.07, due chiefly to the low
average weight per fleece.

596 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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EDITORIAL AXD INDUSTBIAL ISUSCELLAXT.

597

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w e M

598 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

ENGLISH RAG AND SHODDY TRADE.^

The ''heavy woolen district," the well-known home of the
English rag and shoddy trade, has its center at Dewsbury and
Batley, two small towns located about halfway between Hudders-
field and Leeds.

This district is estimated to contain about 84 establishments
for spinning and weaving low-grade woolen cloth, 28 for dyeing
and finishing cloth, and over 20 making hearth rugs. The rag
trade is represented by 55 shoddy mills, containing a large pro-
portion of the 566 rag-grinding machines employed in the shoddy
mills of the entire country ; also by about 330 workshops or
establishments not using mechanical power. These latter are
engaged in sorting immense quantities of home, foreign, and
colonial rags according to quality and color.

The terms "shoddy" and " mungo " are officially recognized
by the Board of Trade, although the first is not popular with
rag dealers. In the Dewsbury auctioneers' catalogue shoddy
goods, which include unfelted cloths, knitted goods, woolen
flannels, and hosieries, are designated as " soft rags." The better
qualities of these, such as soft worsted goods for women's wear,
are called " merinos." Mungo rags of the best quality, such as
tailors' clippings of men's worsteds, old samples, and patterns,
bear the name of " worsteds." The inferior grades consist of
rags from worn-out hard worsted cloth.

Rags come to the Dewsbury market from nearly all parts of
the world, but the chief sources of supply are Germany, France,
and other western Continental countries. A great deal of these
arrive in the " unpulled" condition. The total imports into the
United Kingdom for the year 1910 of unpulled rags were 58,946
long tons, and of pulled rags about 3,052 tons.

During recent years, increased quantities of American rags
have been sold, as is shown in the following table:

1 From a report of U.S. Consul B. F. Chase, of Leeds, England.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

599

1908.

1909.

1910.

Rags.

From
United
States.

Total
Imports.

From
United
States.

Total
Imports.

From
United
States.

Tons.

893
16,787

17,680

Total
Imports.

Pulled

Tons.

190
3,605

Tons.

1,358
39,059

40,417

Tons.

529

8,815

9,344

Tons.

2,015

46,414

48,429

Tons.

3,052
58,946

Unpulled

Total

3,795

61,998

There are five commission houses at Dewsbury holding weekly
public auctions. The usual commission charged is 2^ per cent
on the gross amount of sale, and porterage is 4 cents per 100
pounds. Kemittances for goods sold are sent on the fourteenth
day after sale date. Bales are to be plainly marked and numbered
in consecutive order.

Sales of foreign materials are not always made through the
public auction, and considerable quantities of American rags are
purchased by private contract with rag merchants, shoddy
makers, and large woolen manufacturers having rag-grinding
departments. During the last three months of 1910, ninety-six
tons were so imported at Huddersfield. As a rule, however, the
manufacturers at Huddersfield and in the Colue Valley, where
cheap and medium woolens and tweeds are produced, either buy
the rag wool already dyed and graded from shoddy mills, or the
unpulled materials from dealers who make a specialty of rag
sorting and grading. Owing to the risk involved in buying sup-
plies which may not ultimately find a market, dealers handling
rags otherwise than on commission are not always prepared to buy
direct unless they have actual orders for the goods in advance.

Shoddy is blended with colonial wool by yarn spinners and
with cotton in the manufacture of low-grade fabrics. Mungo,
blended with wool, is said to produce a weft yarn suitable for
high-class goods, and is also adapted to the manufacture of
double cloths. A mungo weft is often used with a cotton warp
in making some of the cheaper productions.

Consul B. F. Chase, of Leeds, in the same report makes the fol-
lowing statement in regard to a wage dispute in the shoddy trade:

A shoddy-trade workers' dispute at Ossett in the Leeds con-
sular district which lasted six weeks has recently been settled.

600 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

The terms of settlement as given in the local press are : Layers-
on, dyers, laborers, rag shakers, and warehousemen are to be
paid $5.96 a week immediately and $6.08 a week beginning
October 6 ; carbonizers and packers, $6.33 ; fettlers, $0.11 per
hour, with ooj hours a week ; night men, $0,115 per hour ; and
$0.12 an hour is to be paid for overtime all around.

COMPARATIVE WAGES.

A FRESH REPORT OF A COMMITTEE OF THE ASSOCIATION

ON LABOR IN AMERICA AND EUROPE.

A SPECIAL committee of tlie National Association of Wool

Manufacturers on comparative wages in this country and in

Europe has been at work for several months gathering data, with

a view to aiding the inquiry of the Tariff Board and providing

new and exact information for the manufacturers themselves.

The report of this committee, as transmitted to President Wood,

is as follows :

Boston, Mass., October 20, 1911.

Mb. John P. Wood, President National Association of Wool
Manufacturers, 521 North 22d Street, Philadelphia, Pa.

Dear Mr. Wood : The Committee on Comparative Wages,
charged by the Executive Committee of the National Association
of Wool Manufacturers with procuring new and specific figures
of the wages paid to the more important occupations in the
various branches of the wool manufacture in this country and
abroad, has completed its inquiry and presents its final report.

At the last meeting of the committee at the Hotel Belmont,
New York City, on October 17, the committee examined care-
fully the comparative lists of wages submitted by several manu-
facturers who have had practical experience and personal
acquaintance both in this country and in Europe. The wage
rates were taken in every instance from representative mills.
They are the latest available figures. They show actual present
conditions.

Out of the individual lists submitted the committee has pre-
pared what it believes to be a fair average statement for the
United States and Europe. Undoubtedly some wages that are
paid, both here and abroad, are higher than the rates wliich we
have fixed and, on the other hand, sou)e are lower. We have
sought to avoid any figures that were exceptional or extreme,
and we are confident that our report embodies an average that is
as just and exact as can be established, both for the American
and for the foreign industry.

Our investigation confirms the prevalent belief that wages in
the wool manufacture in the United States are, generally speak-
ing, twice as high as the wages paid in the same occupations in

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY.

601

British mills, and moi-e than twice as high as the wages paid in
the mills on the continent of Europe.

We wish to express our appreciation of the prompt and val-
uable assistance given to the work of this committee by all the
manufactu.rers who have responded to our request for information.
Respectfvilly yours,

James R. MacColl, Chairman,
Geokge H. Hodgson,
Walter Erben,
Julius Forstmann,
Harry Hartley,
Committee on Comparative Wages of the

National Association of Wool Manufacturers.

Worsted Spinning — English System.

Overseer of wool room

Wool sorters

Overseer of wash room

Washers

Orerseer of card room

Card grinders

Card strippers

Card feeders

Overseer of combing room

Noble combs

Gill box minders

Backwash minders

Overseer of drawing room

Gill boxes

Heavy drawing '.

Reducing

Roving

Overseer of spinning

Spinning section overlookers

Cap spinning, 2 sides; spindles per side, 100.
Cap spinning, 3 sides; spindles per side, 100.

Doffers

Sweepers

Overseer of twisting

Twisters

Reelers and warpers

Winders

Mill clerks

Engineers

Stokers or firemen

Mechanics

Carpenters

Laborers ,

American.

English.

Hours Per Week.

55 1/2

$24.00

$12.50

15.00

9.00

18.00

7.25

10.00

6.50

22.50

8.75

11.00

7.50

10.00

6.50

8.00

6.00

25.00

10.00

8.00

4.50

7.00

3.25

8.00

4.50

27.00

10.00

7.00

3.25

8.00

3.25

7.00

3.12

7.00

3.12

27.00

11.50

15.00

9.00

6.00

3.00

7.00

3.50

4.50

2.00

4.00

1.75

20.00

10.50

7.50

3.50

7.50

4.25

6.50

3.00

15.00

6.00

22.00

9.00

14.00

7.50

15.00

9.00

14.00

8.00

9.00

5.00

602 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.
Worsted Spinning — French System.

Overseer of wool room , . .

Wool sorters

Overseer of wash room. . .

Washers

Overseer of card room . . .

Card strippers

Card feeders

Overseer of combing room

Combs

Back washers

Gill boxes

Overseer of drawing room

Drawing gills

Drawing frames

Roving frames

Overseer of mule spinning

Mule spinners

Mule spinner's helpers . . .

Twisters

Winders and reelers

Mill clerks

Engineers

Stokers or firemen

Mechanics

Carpenters

Laborers

American.

Continental.*

Hours Per Week.

$24.00

$11.00

15.00

7.00

18.00

7.25

10.00

5.00

20.00

8.50

10.00

5.50

8.00

4.00

20.00

10.00

7.00

3.25

8.00

3.25

7.00

3.25

24.00

10.00

7.00

3.50

7.00

3.50

. 7.00

3.50

26.00

10.00

15.75

8.00

10.00

5.00

7.50

3.75

750

3.75

15.00

6.00

22.00

8.50

14.00

7.00

15.00

7.00

14.00

6.00

9.00

4.00

■ An average of both German and French wages.

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTKIAL MISCELLANY. 603

WooLEx Spixxixg.

Overseer of wool room

Wool sorters

Overseer of wash room

Washers

Overseer of card room

Carders

Card cleaners

Overseer of spinning . .

Spinners

Spinner's helpers

Mill clerks

Engineers

Stokers or firemen. . . .

Mechanics

Carpenters

Laborers

American.

Belgian.

Hours Per Week.

$18.00

$8.00

15.00

(i.OO

1800

8.00

9.00

4.00

18.00

8.00

10.50

5.00

12.00

5.50

18.00

8.00

1350

6.00

9.00

4.00

15.00

6.00

22.00

7.00

14.00

5.00

15.00

6.00

14.00

6.00

9.00

4.00

Weaving and Finishing.

Overseer of weaving

Weaving section fixers

Weavers

Cloth room burlers

Cloth room sewers

Gray room hands

Crabbing, steaming and singeiiig

Washing and scouring

Dyeing machine tenders

Hydraulic presses

Finishing machine tenders

Examiners

Folding, rolling or putting up . .

Mill clerks

Engineers

Stokers or firemen

Mechanics

Carpenters

Laborers

American.

English.

Continental.*

Hours Per Week.

55 1/3

$36.00

$17.50

$10.00

16.00

9.00

6.50

13.00

5.00

4.80

7.00

3.85

2.90

10.00

4.50

3.60

9.. 50

6.00

5.00

10.00

6.. "50

4.45

9.00

6.50

4.25

9.60

6.50

4.75

14.00

12.50

5.15

9.50

6.50

4.80

11.00

7.00

5.30

11.50

6.75

4.20

15.00

6.00

22.00

9.00

8.50

14.00

7.50

7.00

15.00

9.00

7.00

14.00

8.00

6.C0

9.00

5.00

4.00

*An average of both German and French wages.

604 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL, MANUFACTURERS.

THE SIZE OF FACTORIES.

A NEW FEDERAL ENUMERATION OF CONCERNS OPERATED
UNDER THE FACTORY SYSTEM IN THE UNITED STATES.

The United States Census Bureau has issued an exceedingly
interesting report on the size of factories in the United States.
Such a comparison, we believe, has never before been attempted.

The Census Office finds that in 1909 there were 268,491 estab-
lishments of all kinds, with a product valued at ^206,720,518.70.

These establishments do not include the hand or building
trades, or the neighborhood industries, but take account only of
establishments conducted under the factory system. The report
divides them into five groups which it designates as " Very
small," " Small," " Medium," " Large," and " Great." It bases
its division upon the annual value of the product as follows :
less than f 5,000; f 5,000 and less than $20,000; $20,000 and
less than $100,000; $100,000 and less than $1,000,000 ; $1,000,-
000 and over, and shows the number of establishments, the
average number of wage earners and the value of products in
each group, compared with a similar grouping as obtained from
the Census of 1904.

The report says :

The word " establishment," as used in the Thirteenth Census,
is defined as meaning one or more factories, mills, or plants,
owned, controlled, or operated by a person, partnership, corpora-
tion, or other owner, located in the same town or city, and for
which one set of books of account is kept. It should be noted
particularly that the basis of classification here used is not that
of ownership. A single concern, like an industrial combination,
which operates several plants, is not counted once only, but each
of its separate plants is counted if it has a separate set of
accounts.

LARGE FACTORIES.

Establishments for which the annual products amounted to
$1,000,000 or over may be for convenience called "great " estab-
lishments. Of the 268,491 establishments reported for the cen-
sus of manufactures of 1909, there were 3,061 or 1.1 per cent, in
this class. The corresponding figures for 1904 were 1,900 estab-
lishments, or .9 per cent of the total. While the " great " estab-
lishments represent a comparatively small proportion of the total
number of establishments, they gave employment to a much
larger proportion, 30.5 per cent of all the wage earners reported
for 1909 and 25.6 per cent of those reported for 1904. The
value of products of the " great " establishments represented

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTKIAL MISCELLANY. 605

43.8 per cent of the total value of products for all establish-
ments in 1909 and 38 per cent for 1904.

The figures indicate that even during the short period of five
years the "great" establishments have increased to such an
extent that they now control an appreciably larger proportion of
the manufactures of the country.

It should be noted that the increased proportion for " great "
establishments is partly due to the passage of concerns from the
lower group to the higher during the interval between 1904 and
1909.

If the designation " large " establishments is given to all of
those that had an annual product of $100,000 but less than $1,000,-
000, it appears that in 1909 there were 27,823 establishments,
or 10.4 per cent of the total number, in this class, as compared
with 10.3 per cent in 1904. In 1909 these establishments gave
employment to 43.8 per cent of the wage earners and their
products formed 38.4 per cent of the total products reported for
all establishments. The corresponding percentages in 1904 were
somewhat larger, 46 and 41.3 per cent respectively.

MEDIUM-SIZED ESTABLISHMENTS.

Designating all establishments that had an annual product of
120,000 but less than $100,000, as of "medium size," it appears
that there were o7,2{)9, or 21.3 per cent of the total number, in
this class in 1909, as compared with 48,096, or 22.2 per cent, in
1904. In 1909 these establishments gave employment to 16.5
per cent of the wage earners, and their products formed 12.3 per
cent of the total value of products. The corresponding percent-
ages for 1904 were 18.8 and 14.4 per cent respectively. The
proportions of the totals represented by these establishments,
therefore, were considerably less in 1909 than in 1904.

SMALL ESTABLISHMENTS.

The establishments which have an annual product of between
$5,000 and $20,000 may be designated as " small." In number
they are more numerous than the preceding class, there being
86,989 in 1909 and 72,791 in 1904. At the latter date they con-
stituted 32.4 per cent of the Avhole number and at the former
33.7 per cent. In spite of this comparatively large number, they
gave employment to only a small proportion, 7.1 per cent, of the
wage earners in 1909, and their products formed only 4.4 per cent
of the total value of products for that year. The corresponding
percentages for 1904 were 7.7 and 5.1 per cent respectively.

Establishments that had a product of less than $5,000 may be
considered as " very small " concerns. There were 93,349 of
them, or 34.8 per cent of the total, in 1909, and 71,147, or 32.9
per cent of the total, in 1904. In 1909 they gave employment to
only 2.2 per cent of the wage earners and their products formed
only 1.1 per cent of the total value of products, the percentages
for 1904 being 1.9 and 1.2 per cent respectively.

606 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

It appears, therefore, that of the five classes of establishments
designated, the class of " great " establishments alone has a larger
proportion of the total value of products in 1909 than in 1904,
every other class having lost relatively. The same statement is
true as to number of wage earners except that the '^ very small "
as well as the " great " establishments have gained somewhat in
the proportion of the total number employed.

SUMMARY FOR THE UNITED STATES.

The comparative summary for the United States, 1909 and
1904, follows :

Industry and Value of Product.

Number of

Establish-

ments.

Average

Number of

Wage

Earners.

Value of
Products.

All industries :

1909

268,491
216,180

93,349
71,147

86,989
72,791

57,269
.48,096

27,823
22,246

3,061
1,900

6,615,046

5,468,383

142,430
106,353

470,075
419,466

1,090,380
1,027,047

2,896,475
2,515,064

2,015,686
1,400,453

$20,672,051,870
14,793,902,563

1904

Less than $5,000:

1909

222,463,847

1904

176,128,212

$5,000 and less than f 20,000:

1909

904,724,296
751,047,759

1904

$20,000 and less than $100,000 :

1909

2,544,348,079

1904

2,129,257,883
7,946,817,284

$100,000 and less than $1,000,000 :
1909

1904

6,109,012,538

9,053,698,364
5,628,456,171

$1,000,000 and over:

1909

1904

Per cent of total falling
within each class :
Less than $5,000 :

1909

34.8
32.9

32.4
33.7

21.3
22 2

10 4
10.3

1.1
0.9

2.2
1.9

7.1

7.7

16.5

18.8

43.8
46.0

30.5
25.6

25
25

l.l

1904

1.2

$5,000 and less than $20,000 :

1909

4.4

1904

5.1

$20,000 and less than $100,000 :

1909

12.3

1904

14.4

$100,000 and less than $1,000,000 :
1909

38.4

1904

41.3

$1,000,000 and over:

1909

48.8

1904

38.0

Average per establishment:
1909

$76,993

1904

$68,433

EDITORIAL AND INDUSTRIAL MISCELLANY. 607

THE TEXTILE DIKECTORIES.
The twenty-third edition of Dockham's " Textile Manufacture
and Dry Goods Trade Directories " has been published in a form
more complete and satisfactory than ever. The large, handsome
volume contains an alphabetical list of textile manufacturers,
print works, bleacheries, dyers, finishers, etc., in the United
States and Canada, and an alphabetical list of textile manu-
facturers by States in the United States and in Canada and
Mexico ; a list of cotton dealers in the United States, Canada,
England, Germany, France, and Belgium ; a list of cotton
exchanges and textile associations ; a list of brokers and con-
verters of cotton goods, of dry goods commission houses and
manufacturers' agents, of wholesale dry goods houses, of
exporters and importers, of manufacturing companies having
their offices in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Providence,
and of yarn dealers in the United States and Canada, and a
quantity of well chosen, clearly arranged statistics relative to the
textile industries. The volume contains altogether upwards of
700 pages, and is indispensable to concerns engaged in the textile
trades. The Dockham Publishing Company, 6 Beacon street,
Boston, Mass., is the publisher, and this number is dedicated to
Mr. James G. F. Randolpli, whose ** strong personality, individu-
ality of character, perseverance, force, and staunch integrity " are
commended.

The " Official American Textile Director}'," compiled by the
" Textile World Record," has been published for 1911-12. It is
thoroughly indexed, so that its contents are easy to find. Part I.
contains a list of textile establishments, with full data about each
mill in the United States, Canada, and ISIexico. Part II. is
devoted to the yarn trade, and Part III. to bleaching, dyeing,
printing, and finishing ; Part IV. to raw materials, etc. ; Part V. to
manufacturers' selling agents, dry goods commission houses and
converters, and I'art VI. contains a classification of mills accord-
ing to goods made.

The arrangement of the directory is excellent. It contains an
immense amount of well classified information, and is most
valuable for reference.

The Lord & Nagle Company, 144 Congress street, Boston, are
the publishers.

BUSHELS OF WEIGHT AND BUSHELS OF VOLUME.

The volume of a bushel measure in the United States (called
Winchester bushel) is 2,150.42 cubic inches ; this is equivalent
to a cube each side of which is about 12.9 inches (12.907 -|--) or

608 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

a solid measuring 12 inches by 12 inches by 14.93 -f- inches.
The volume of a bushel measure in England (called imperial
bushel) is about 3.1 per cent greater than the bushel measure
used in the United States ; it contains 2,218.19 cubic inches,
which is equivalent to a cube each side of which measures
slightly more than 13 inches ; or a solid measuring 12 inches by
12 inches by 15.40 -f- inches.

In commercial transactions the use of the term " bushel," to
signify a certain volume, is becoming less and less, and its use to
signify a specified weight is becoming increasingly general. Thus,
transactions in wheat are now made almost wholly on the basis
of bushels, not of a certain volume, but of a definite weight, 60
pounds. For instance, the grain-inspection rules, affecting grain
transactions in Chicago, specify that a bushel of wheat of the
grade called No. 3 red winter need not weigh more than 55
pounds per measured bushel ; that is, that 2,150.4 cubic inches of
the grain need not weigh more than 55 pounds. But a transaction
of 1,000 bushels of this wheat would involve 1,000 x 60 pounds,
and not 1,000 X 55 pounds.

A legalized bushel weight has been established by the United
States Government (mainly for customs purposes) for but few
agricultural products, as follows : Barley, 48 pounds ; castor
beans, shelled, 50 pounds ; buckwheat, 42 ; corn, shelled, 56 ;
cornmeal, 48 ; flaxseed (linseed), 56 ; oats, 32 ; peas, 60 ; potatoes,
60 ; rye, 56 ; wheat, 60 pounds.

Most State legislatures have established for their respective
States legal bushel weights for various other products ; but for
some products there is not much uniformity ; for instance, a legal
bushel weight of broom corn seed in North Dakota is 30 pounds,
whereas in the adjacent State of Minnesota it is 57 pounds.

The Bureau of the Census in its reports of production of crops
makes no specification whether its figures relate to bushels of
measure or bushels of weight.

The Bureau of Statistics of the Department of Agriculture, in
making inquiries concerning production and prices, has, for the
last few years, requested its correspondents to report in equiva-
lents of weighed bushels ; and, to have reports from various
States comparable, has specified the weights. Where the weight
adopted by the Bureau of Statistics differs from the legal weight
in the correspondent's State, the correspondent is expected to
make the proper allowance.

Whenever tonnage of a crop is reported upon, a weight of
2,000 pounds is specified.

The bushel weights thus adopted by the Bureau of Statistics
of the Department of Agriculture are as follows : Apples, 48
pounds ; barley, 48 ; beans (dry), 60 ; buckwheat, 48 ; clover seed,
60; corn, shelled, 56; corn on cob, 70; flaxseed, 56; oats, 32;
onions, 57 ; peaches, 48 ; peanuts, 22 ; pears, 48 ; potatoes, 60 ;
rough rice, 45; sweet potatoes, 56, rye, 56; timothy seed, 45;
tomatoes, 56 ; wheat, 60. — Crop Rejjoi'ter.

QUARTERLY REPORT^OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 609

QUARTERLY REPORT OF THE BOSTON WOOL MARKET
FOR JULY, AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER, 1911.
Domestic Wools. (George W. Benedict.)

Ohio, Pennsylvania,
Virginia.

(WASHED.)

XX and above . . .

^ Blood

AND West

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine ....
i Blood . . .
I " • • .

Fine Delaine

Michigan, Wisconsin, New York,

ETC.
(WASHED.)

Fine

4 Blood

Fine Delaine

(UNWASHED.)

Fine ....
k Blood . . .

Fine Delaine

Kentucky and Indiana.
(unwashed.)
i Blood

Braid

Missouri, Iowa, and Illinois,
(unwashed.)
i Blood

Braid

Texas.

(scoured basis.)
12 months, fine, and fine medium . .

6 to 8 monthe, fine

12 months, medium . .

6 to 8 months, medium

Fall, tine and fine medium

" medium ■ . . .'

California,
(scoured basis.)

Free, 12 mouths

" 6 to 8 months

Fall, free

" defective

Territory Wool: Montana, Wyo-
ming, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, etc.

(SCOURED BASIS.)

Staple, fine and fine medium . . . .

" medium .

Clothing, fine and fine medium . . .

" medium

New Mexico. (Spring.)

(SCOURED BASIS.)

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

New Mexico. (Fall.)

(SCOURED BASIS.)

No. 11

^°;;^i> None here.

No. 4 J
Georgia and Southern.

Unwashed

1911.

July. August. September,

27 @ 28

26 @ 27

30 (g 31

29 © 30

29 ig 30

29 @ 30

19 (g 20

24 i§ 25

24 @ 25

23 @ 24

28 @ 29

27 g 28

27 ig 28

28 @ 29

18 (g 19

23 @ 24

224 g 23

22 a 23

23 g 24
22 (3 23
20 a 21

22 g 23
22 t 22J
19 6 20

50 (3 52

45 ® 47

43 (g 44

38 ® 40

36 @ 38

48 @ 50

43 ig 44

37 (g 38

30 @ .32

54 @ 66

48 @ 50

47 ig 49

40 (g 42

4.5 a 47

41 g 42

.'52 @ 35

30 © 32

20 @ 21

27 ® 28

26 a 27

30 (g 31

29 (g 30

29 @ 30

19 @ 20

24 g 25

24 ig 25

23 a 24

23 (g 24

28 g 29

28 Ig 29

28 (g 29

28 @ 29

18 S 19

23 (g 24

23 a 24

22 ig 23

22 (g 23

2S @ 24
22 @ 23
mS 21^

22 ® 23
22 @ 22i
20 a 21

50 3 52
45 @ 47
43 (g 44
38 @ 40
38 § 40
36 @ 38

48 @ 50
43 (g 44
37 @ 38
30 @ 32

55 @ 56

48 @ 60
48 @ 50
40 @ 42

46 @ 48
42 (g 43
33 S 36
30 (g 32

28 Ig 28^
26 Q 27
31 Ig 32
30 @ 31

29 ,3 30
29^0 30

20 @ 21

25 ig 26

2413 25 J

24 & 25

24 3 25

29 a 30

29 (g 30

28 a 29

28 @ 29

19 @ 20
24^3 25
24 a 24^
23 a 24
22 a 23

24 0 25
23 a ^4
22 a 22^

23^3 24
23 a 23^
21^3 22

52 ® 63

45 ® 47

45 a 46

39 a 41

39 a 42

37 a 39

48 a 50

43 @ 44

37 a 38

31 a 33

58 a 60
50 @ 63
50 a 53
42 a 45

47 a 48
42 a 43
33 a 36
31 a 33

21 a 22

1910.

September.

30 a 31
29 a 30
33 a 34
33 a 34

32 a 33

33 a 34

20 a '-ii

28 a 29
27 a 28
26 a 27
25 a 26

32 3 33
32 a 33
31 a 32
31 a 32

19 a 20

27 a 28
27 a 28
25 a 26
24 a 25

28 a 29
27 a 28
22 a 23

26 3 28
24 a 25
21 a 22

60 e 61
53 a 54
62 a 54

47 a 48

48 a 50
42 a 43

54 a 59
51 a 52
44 e 45
33 a 38

61 @ 62
56 ® 57
54 a 66
60 a 51

55 a 57
46 a 47
36 a 37
34 a 35

24 a 25

610 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

Domestic Wool.

Boston, September 30, 1911.

The present quarter (July, August and September) has been one attended
with much uncertainty in the wool trade, largely owing to the continued
agitation of the tariff question and it was not until this was temporarily dis-
posed of the latter part of August that manufacturers showed any interest in
the market beyond covering their immediate requirements. This naturally
has caused rather an uneven demand through July and August, one active
week being followed by several dull ones, all depending on the way the tariff
wind was blowing from Washington. Even under these adverse conditions
prices have remained fairly firm at the range of values previously established.

The new clip has been generally moved in the country on a relatively
higher basis than the market here would warrant and this has had the ten-
dency to check any further decline, no dealers being disposed to sell stock at
a loss thus early in the season.

Contracts for light weight goods have been made with great caution, the
woolen mills receiving rather the larger volume of orders. The mills making
men's wear have done better than those making dress goods fabrics.

There has been a fairly steady demand for fleeces, especially i blood grade,
also i and braid wools, the latter grade bringing relatively higher prices
than the finer qualities.

In territory wools the movement has been fairly general but always on
conservative lines and only to cover orders for goods already booked. Some
good lines of staple territory wools have been moved, prices indicating some
slight advance over values of the last quarter.

During September a better feeling has developed, following the adjourn-
ment of Congress, and the trade is anticipating a breathing spell for a few
months, at least, or until Congress again convenes to renew its attack on

Schedule K.

George W. Benedict.

Polled Wools. (^Scoured basis.) (W. A. Blanchard.)

Extra, and Fine A
A .Super ....

B Super

0 Super

Fine Combinu . .
Medium Combing
Low (Jorabing . .
California, Extra .

July.

48 @ 56
45 & 48
40 a 44
33 i 35
48 ig 50
44 @ 46
40 (g 42
48 (g 52

August.

48 @ 56
45 g 48
40 @ 44
33 @36
48 g 50
44 @ 46
40 ig 42
48 ig 52

September.

57 @68
60 a 55
45 @48
33 ® 38
55 ® 60
47 @ 50
43 @ 45

58 @ 62

Polled Wool.

The market throughout the quarter lias been steady and demand has kept
close to production. The woolen mills have been large users of medium and
low supers for cloakings and similar fabrics. No combing wools are made at
this season, and, as none practically were carried over, quotations on these
■ grades are necessarily nominal. Fine wools — Extras and Fine A's — have

QUARTERLY REPORT OF BOSTON WOOL MARKET. 611

been relatively quiet and the difference in their values as compared with
those of supers is much less than the average of more normal seasons.
Stocks in puller's hands at the close of the quarter were light and prices were
firm.

W. A. Blanchard.

Foreign Wools. (Madgek & Avert.)

Australian Combing :

Choice

Good

Averai^e

AuBtraliau Clothing :

Choice

Good

' Average

Sydney and Queensland :

Good Clothing

Good Combing

AuHtralinn Crossbred :

Choice

Average

Australian Lambs :

Choice

Good

Good Defective

Cape of Good Hope :

Choice

Average

Montevideo :

Choice

Average

Croesbred, Choice

Bnglish Wools :

Sussex Fleece

Shropshire Hogs

Yorkshire Hogs

Irish Selected Fleece ....
Carpet Wools :

Scotch Highland, White . .

East India, Ist White Joria .

East India, White Kandahar

Ponskoi, Washed, White .

Aleppo, White

China Ball, White

" " No. 1, Open . .

" " No. 2, Open . .

1911.

July.

August.

Sept.

@42

(§42

@41

(§41

@ 38

(§38

@39

@35

(§35

@ 37

@43

@iS

@42

@41

@39

(§39

@39

(§ 37

@36

(g 36

§86

@ 36

@40

(§40

#40

S37

®39

(§39

(§89

(8 38

@40

® 40

(§ 40

(§40

3 36

(§ 36

@ 36

® 45

@44

@45

(§46

>§40

@40

(§40

® 36

@36

(g 36

(§ 36

@35

(§ 35

(§85

@.33

(§33

(§38

(g 33

(3 36

@36

@ 35

®35

(§34

@34

@ 33

<S 32

@ 39

@ 37

@ 38

@41

(§41

#41

@42

(3 40

(§40

@39

@42

@38

@36

(§38

@37
@24

(§37
(§24

@36
(§24

@22

@31

@32

(§30

@30

.a 28

@ 26

(§34

@34

a 33

(§33

@33

2-2

@24

(§24

@21

(§21

@21

(§15

@15

1910.

Foreign Wools.

Values of foreign wools during the past quarter have shown but little varia-
tion. The strong demand in Europe kept merinos and crossbreds steady in
price, while the steadily decreasing supply in America tended to give confi-
dence to owners here in spite of the fact that there was quite a disparity in
the values of domestic and imported wools. English wools have been neg-
lected on this side.

The inquiry for carpet wools has continued moderate. Had there been
large supplies, prices might have declined. Tariff discussion has a ten-
dency to restrict importation of wools, but until some act is passed by Con-
gress, it is not expected that business will be retarded to any great e.xtent,
because the orders for worsted products are probably now as small as is
possible.

Boston, October 16, 1911,

612 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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IMPORTS OF WOOL AND WOOLENS.

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fo-ca TS-a

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614 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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IMPORTS OF WOOL AND WOOLENS.

615

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616 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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618 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOOL MANUFACTURERS.

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IMPORTS OF WOOL AND WOOLENS.

619

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13,059.42

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Dollars.
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33,904.58

35,430.67

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Dollars.

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35,766.88
36,999.88

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12,987.46

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1,623.25

32,347.29

34,562.54

6,226.00
12,195.38

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Rates of duty.

33 cents per pound
and 50 per cent.

44 cents per pound
and 50 per cent.

44 cents per pound
and 55 per cent.

44 cents per pound
and 50 per cent.

44 cents per pound
and 55 per cent.

44 cents per pound
and 65 per cent
less 20 per cent .

•0

Wools, hair of the camel, etc. — Continued.
Manufactures composed wholly or in part
of wool, worsted, etc. — Continued.
Knit fabrics (not wearing apparel) —
Valued at not more than 40 cents

Valued more than 40 and not more
than 70 cents per pound (pounds),

Valued above 70 cents per pound
(pounds)

:
5
s

2
3

3 "a
ci

3 a

Plushes and other pile fabrics —

Valued more than 40 and not more

than 70 cents per pound (pounds)

Valued more than 70 cents per pound

C3
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IMPORTS OF WOOL AND WOOLENS.

621

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3

INDEX.

NDEX TO VOLUME XLI.

Page

Abyssinia, cotton growing in 490

Ad valorem duties faulty 238

Ad valorem duties on wool 32

Address of William Whitman at forty-sixth annual meeting of the
National Association of Wool Manufacturers, Washington, D.C.,

February 1, 1911 4

The Payne-Aldrich act the best of tariff laws 5, 82

Heavj- cost of misrepresentation 7

Life " simple " and " strenuous" 7

Commissions in Congress 9

The Democratic opportunity 9

" Special interests" 10

Fair play all that is asked 11

Wages in Germany 12

Aldrich, Hon. N. W., quoted on the -'four to one" ratio 99

Ames, Hon. Butler, quoted 369

American Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers, the . . 125

American Woolen Company, the, not a monopoly 368

Annual banquet, the, Washington, D.C., February 1, 1911 .... 17

Address of President John P. Wood 18

Address of Charles H. Harding 22

Address of William M. Wood 40

Address of Hon. Francis E. Warren of Wyoming 45

Address of Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge 59

Address of Hon. .Joseph G. Cannon 61

Address of Hon. Henry C. Emery, Chairman of the Tariff Board . 65

List of guests 68

Annual report of the Secretary 14

The prospect of tariff legislation 15

The work of the Association 16

The Committee on Undervaluations 16

Annual Wool Review, by William J. Battison 499

The United States census report on sheep, 1909 499

Review of the year 500

Extracts from correspondence 503

Wool producing sheep. 1910, United States census and National

Association's estimate compared 508

626 INDEX.

Page

The number of sheep, 1911 509

United States wool product 509

Pulled wool product 510

Average weight and shrinkage 611

Value of the wool product 512, 514

Fleece, pulled, and scoured wool 513

Available supplies 514

The annual wool supply, 1890-1911 516

Slaughter and movement of sheep 517

Course of prices (with chart) 519

Boston receipts and shipments of wool 521

Statistical tables, imports and exports of wool and woolens . . . 522

London sales 531

Liverpool sales 536

Antwerp auctions 537

Australasian sheep and wool statistics 538

Wool production in South Africa 548

River Plate wools 549

The season in Buenos Ayres 551

Uruguay wools 553

Number of sheep in the world 554

The world's wool production 557

Antwerp auctions, 1911 537

Argentine wools, imports of, into the United States, 1904-1911 . . . 552

Australasian season, 1911, the 547

Australasian sheep 190C-1910, number of 538

Australasian wool clip, the value of 542

Australian wool exports 539

Australian wool history, some incidents in early 485

Battison, William J., Annual Wool Review 499

Beaumont, Professor Roberts, textile training, the old school and the

new 476

Beebe, J. M., & Company 213

Benedict, George W., Secretary, Boston Wool Trade Association . . 574

Quarterly report of the Boston wool market on domestic wools, 178, 357,

496, 609

Bethmann-Hollweg, Dr. v., German Imperial Chancellor, quoted . . 243
Blanchard, William A., quarterly report of the Boston wool market on

pulled wools 179, 358, 496, 610

Blankets: Yorkshire and other (" Yorkshire Observer " ) 585

An old industry 586

The Yorkshire trade 588

Processes of manufacture 589

Blume's, Senator Fred H., misapprehension corrected 92

INDEX. 627

Page
Board of Trade, the British, extract from report on cost of living in

America and Europe 326

Boston receipts and shipments of wool (tables) 521

Boston, the spinning schools of, 1720 284

Boston Wool Trade Association 572

Organization and objects 572

Resolution concerning trade abuses 574

Circular to wool growers and dealers 574

Bushels of weight and bushels of volume 607

C.
Cahill, Hon. John T., Mayor of Lawrence, Mass., address of, at banquet

in honor of William Whitman 204

Lawrence and the Arlington Mills 206

Canada as a warning 56

Canada an example and warning, by Winthrop L. Marvin 559

Canada and the United States contrasted 560

Free wool in Canada 561

Canadian sheep disappearing 562

How 30 per cent protection fails • 563

A warning to the United States 565

Canada, wool free in 661

Canadian reciprocity 64

Canadian reciprocity treaty of 1855, Senator Morrill on 132

Cannon, Hon. Joseph G., address of, at annual banquet, Washington,

D.C 61

The best of all tariff laws 62

Canadian reciprocity 64

Carded wool interests, no discrimination against 41

Carpender, John Xeilson, obituary (with portrait) 567

Carpet and rug manufacture. United States census of, 1909 .... 316

Carr, Moses, obituary 453

Chase, United States Consul B.F., report on the English rag and shoddy

trade 598

Clarke, Colonel Albert, obituary (with portrait) 448

Clark, Frederic S., address of, at dinner to John P. Wood 121

The National Association of Clothiers 124

The American Association of Woolen and Worsted Manufacturers, 125

Clothing, the " enhanced " cost of 29

Combined textiles, United States census report, 1909 468

Comb, the Noble, its first use in the United States 223

Commerce in cloth, English restrictions upon 274

Commissions in Congress 9

Committee on Undervaluations, the Association's 16

Comparative cost of mill construction in America and abroad .... 443
Comparative statement of imports and exports of wool and manufactures

of wool for the twelve months ending June 30, 1910 and 1911 . 492

628 INDEX.

Page
Comparatiye wages in America and Europe, report of committee of the

National Association, October, 1911 600

Worsted spinning 601

Woolen spinning 603

Weaving and finishing 603

Compensating duties 94

Conference Committee at work, the 470

Conference Committee's report 401

Congress the best tariff-maker 49

Conspiracies, two alleged 23

Cordage, the early manufacture of 283

Correspondence on wool product, extracts from, 1911 503

Cost of clothing, the 29

Cost of living in America and Europe, extract from the British Board of
Trade report, with comparative statements of wages, hours of

labor, rents, and food prices 336

Cost of material, comparative 421

Cost of production, factors in 425

Cotton at the time of the Puritan colony 270

Cotton growing in Abyssinia 490

Cotton manufacture. United States census report, 1909 459

Cotton, the early supply of, for New England 282

Crane, Hon. Winthrop M., letter from 189

Cromwell and the Massachusetts Bay Colony 275

Dale, S. S., referred to 379,380

Day, Judge William A., address of, at banquet in honor of William

Whitman 195

Mr. Whitman and the Equitable Life Assurance Society of New

York 195

Democratic opportunity, the 9

Democratic Schedule K, the 296

Text of the proposal, with estimated customs receipts under [the

proposed bill 298

Dinner in honor of President John P. Wood 119

Address of Joseph R. Grundy 120

Address of Frederic S. Clark 121

Address of Hon. Joseph W. Fordney 128

Address of William M. Wood 134

Address of Hon. Edwin S. Stuart, ex-Governor of Pennsylvania . 140

Address of President Wood 141

List of guests 142

Dinner in honor of William Whitman, April 26, 1911 181

Committee of arrangements 182

Address of President John P. Wood 184

Presentation of portrait 186

INDEX. 629

Page

Address of Hon. John D. Long 186

Letter from Hon. Winthrop Murray Crane 189

Letter from Hon. J. H. Gallinger 189

Letter from Hon. Eugene N. Foss 190

Letter from Hon. A. J. Pothier 190

Letter from William M. Wood 191

Address of Dr. Richard C. Maclaurin, President, Massachusetts

Institute of Technology 192

Address of Judge William A. Day 195

Address of Hon. Samuel L. Powers 199

Address of George S. Smith, President, Boston Chamber of Com-
merce 202

Address of Hon. John T. Cahill, Mayor of Lawrence, Mass. . . 204

Address of John Hopewell 207

Speech of William Whitman . . . . • 210

List of guests 225

Dobson, John, obituary 451

Dooley, William H., author of " Textiles," a treatise on the manufac-
ture for the use of schools 295

Dupee, William R., obituary 145

Durand, E. Dana, United States census reports . . . 321, 459, 591, 604

Duties, ad valorem, faulty 238

Editorial and industrial miscellany 146, 296, 454, 569

Efficiency greater in European mills 420

Elections of 1911, the, by Winthrop L. Marvin 569

Emery, Hon. Henry C., address of, at annual banquet, Washington,

D.C 65

English rag and shoddy trade, report by Consul B. F. Chase, Leeds . . 598

English restrictions upon commerce in cloth 274

English shoddy trade, the 350

English view of expected benefits from tariff legislation, an ... . 473

European mills, greater efficiency in 420

Exports of woolens and worsteds from England 167

Factories in the United States, the size of, United States census report,

1910 604

Felt goods manufacture, United States census of, 1909 321

Flax spindles in Tiurope, number of 355

Food prices in England and America compared 342

Fordney, Hon. Joseph W., address of, at dinner to John P. Wood . . 128
Forstmann, Julius, Schedule K, protection of wool and woolen manu-
factures in the United States 230

630 INDEX.

Page
Forstniann, Julius, statement regarding comparative costs of production

of woolen goods in the United States and Europe 414

Forstmann's article, Mr., referred to 457

Foss, Hon. Eugene N., letter from 190

Four to one ratio, the 95

Free trade and reciprocity 33

Free wool would be unwise 423

Gallinger, Hon. J. H., letter from 189

German customs difficulties 161

German methods of tariff revision 439

Germany, an important word from 240

Germany, wages in 12

Great Britain and Germany, a contrast, " Sheffield Daily Telegraph" . 344
Grundy, Joseph R., address of, at dinner to John P. Wood .... 120
Grundy, Joseph 11., address of, at the National Wool Growers Associa-
tion, January 4, 1911 88

The Revenue Commission of 1865 89

The statement of Senator Blume 92

The compensating duties 94

The ratio of four to one 95

Varying shrinkages 97

Senator Aldrich's statement in 1890 99

The compensation not excessive 100

The carded wool manufacturers 104

Hammond, A. Park, obituary (with portrait) 293

Harding, Charles H., address of, at annual banquet, Washington, D.C., 22

Two alleged conspiracies 23

Reassuring the wool growers 25

As to tariff discrimination in wools 25

The " enhanced " cost of clothing 29

A campaign of vituperation 31

Ad valorem duties on wool 32

Free trade and reciprocity 33

How tariffs are made abroad 34

Illustrations of costs (clothing manufacture) 36

From the wool to the suit 37

Hartshorne, William D., on the hygroscopic qualities of wool (with

illustrations) , reply to comments of Howard Priestman . . . Ill
Hat manufacture, the, wool felt and fur felt. United States census of,

1909 326

Hinchliffe, George, obituary 452

Hopewell, John, address of, at banquet in honor of William Whitman, 207

INDEX. 631

Page
Hosiery and knit goods manufacture, United States census of, 1909, 330, 467

Hours of labor 475

Hours of labor in England and America compared 341

Hygroscopic qualities of wool ; statements by Howard Priestman and

William D. Hartshorne 108

Mr. Priestman's article 108

Mr. Hartshorne's reply Ill

Imports of manufactures of wool, 1905-1911 (table) 530

Imports of wool and manufactures of wool entered for consumption,

fiscal years ending June 30, 1910 and 1911 612

Imports of wool and wool textiles into England, 1907 and 1910 . . . 152
Imports of wool by countries of production, immediate shipment and

classes (tables) 521,526,527

Japan, the new competition of, in manufactures 349

Jordan, Eben D., founder of the Jordan Marsh Company 216

Juilliard, A. D., letter to the National Wool Growers Association . . 83

Justice, Theodore, letter to the National Wool Growers Association . 85

K, attacks on Schedule, not justified by facts 432

K, criticisms of Schedule 237

K, great revenue-producing schedule 437

K, not prohibitive schedule 429

K, revenue side of Schedule 45

K, strength of Schedule 42

K, the Democratic Schedule 296

Kunhardt, G. Otto, obituary 452

Labor, hours of 475

La Follette substitute, the 378

La Follette bill, the revised 397

La Follette bill, vote in the Senate on the 397

Linen industry abroad, the 355

Liverpool wool sales, 1911 536

Lodge, Hon. Henry Cabot, address of, at annual banquet, Washing-
ton, D.C 59

The Tariff Commission 69

Let us have the facts 60

London wool sales, 1911 . 531

632 INDEX.

Page
Long, Hon. John D., address of, at banquet in honor of William

Whitman 186

Longworth, Hon. Nicholas, quoted 370

MacColl, James R., Chairman of Committee on Labor, report on com-
parative wages in America and Europe 600

Maclaurin, Dr. Richard C, address of, at banquet in honor of William

Whitman 192

Mallinson, C, preparation of wool for the market 576

Manufacturers, narrow profits of the 43

Market intensely competitive, the American 436

Marland, Abraham, testimony before Committee on Manufactures of

Congress, January 23, 1828 221

Marsden, Rev. Samuel, introducer of Australian wool into England . . 485

Marvin, Thomas O., " On the Wool Track" reviewed 168

Marvin, Winthrop L., annual report as Secretary 14

Marvin, Winthrop L., Canada an example and warning 559

Marvin, Winthrop L , the elections of 1911 569

Marvin, Winthrop L., a memorable summer, review of attempted tariff

legislation 454

Marvin, Winthrop L., wool and woolens in Congress 361

Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the 193

Mauger & Avery, quarterly report of the Boston wool market on foreign

wools 180, 359, 497, 609

McKinley, Hon. William, views on reciprocity, 1897 132

Memorable summer, a, review of attempted tariff legislation, by Win-
throp L. Marvin 454

Mills, comparative cost of 443

Misrepresentation, the heavy cost of . . • 7

Mondell, Hon. Frank W., a loophole in reciprocity 344

Moore, Hon. J. Hampton, quoted 370

Morrill tariff act, the 91

National Association of Clothiers, the 124

National Association of Wool Manufacturers, forty-sixth annual meet-
ing, Washington, D.C 1

Election of officers 2

Resolution in appreciation of Hon. Charles A. Stott 3

Resolution on the attitude of the Association toward national legis-
lation 3

Resolution in appreciation of President Whitman 4

Address of President Whitman 4

Report of the Secretary, W. L. Marvin 14

Annual banquet, the, Washington, D.C, February 1, 1911 ... 17

INDEX. 633

Page

Address of President John P. Wood 18

Address of Charles H. Harding 22

Address of William M. Wood 40

Address of Hon. Francis E. Warren of Wyoming 45

Address of Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge 59

Address of Hon. Joseph G. Cannon 61

Address of Hon. Henry C. Emery, Chairman of the Tariff Board, 65

List of guests • . . . 68

National Wool Growers Association, forty-seventh annual meeting,

Portland, Ore 74

Remarks of Hon. Francis E. Warren 74

Resolutions adopted 75

Officers elected 7G

Letter from William Whitman 77

Letter from William M. Wood 80

Letter of A. D. Juilliard 83

Letter of Theodore Justice 85

Address of Joseph R. Grundy 88

New England traders before the settlement of the Colonies .... 273

Noble comb, the, its first use in the United States 223

Obituary 144

Henry M. Steel 144

William R. Dupee 145

A. Park Hammond (with portrait) 293

Colonel Albert Clarke (with portrait) 448

John Dobson 451

G. Otto Kunhardt 452

George Hinchliffe 452

Moses Carr 453

John Neilson Carpender (with portrait) 567

Officers of the Association for 1911 2

Officers of the Boston Wool Trade Association 672

Officers of the National Wool Growers Association, 1911 76

Payne-Alilrich Act, the, the best of tariff laws 5

Powers, Hon. Samuel L., address of, at banquet in honor of William

Whitman 199

Mr. Whitman's services to the Commonwealth 201

Powers, LeGrand, United States census report on sheep and wool . . 591

Pothier, Hon. A. J., letter from 190

Preparation of wool for the market (in South Africa), by C. Mallinson, 576

Shearing 578

Picking up and rolling 579

634 INDEX.

Classing 580

Stained wool 582

Wool tables 583

Marking bales 584

Priestman, Howard, a study of kemps 245

Priestman, Howard, on the hygroscopic qualities of wool, in reply to

comments by William D. Hartshorne 108

Prices of 60's super tops in 1910 in England 154

Prices of yarns in England 162

Prices, the course of wool (with chart), 1911 519

Production, comparative cost of, in United States and Europe . . . 415

Profits of manufacturers, narrow 43

Protection, how 30 per cent, fails in Canada 563

Protection, ten points for 46

Protection, what is adequate 430

Protective tariff and tariff for revenue 433

Pulled wool, quantity of, in 1911 510

Puritan colonists, prosperity of the 266

Quarterly report of the Boston wool market .... 178, 357, 495, 609

Rag and shoddy trade, the English 598

Reciprocity, a loophole in, extract from speech of Hon. Frank W.

Mondell 344

Reciprocity, Canadian 64

Reciprocity, free trade and 33

Reciprocity, views of Hon. William McKinley on, 1897 132

Rents in England and America compared 342

Report of Conference Committee, August 12 and 14, 1911 401

Resolution on the attitude of the Association toward national legislation, 3

Resolution on the retirement of President Whitman 4

Resolutions adopted by the National Wool Growers Association, Janu-
ary 4, 1911 . . . . • 75

Restrictions upon commerce in cloth, English 274

Revenue at the cost of American production 435

Revenue Commission of 1865, the, referred to 89

Review of the year 1911 - 500

Revision by schedule unwise 240

River Plate wools 549

Roubaix, action of Congress at, on better wool packing 482

Schedule K, attacks on, not justified by facts 432

Schedule K, criticisms of 237

Schedule K, great revenue producer 437

INDEX. 635

Page

Schedule K not prohibitive 429

Schedule K, revenue side of 45

Schedule K, strength of 42

Schedule K, the Democratic 296

Schedule K, protection of wool and woolen manufactures in the United

States, by Julius Forstmann 230

The plea for free wool 231

No final benefit 232

American wool worth protecting 234

An industry of supreme importance 235

Criticisms of Schedule K 237

Ad valorem duties faulty 238

Attacks on luxuries 239

Revision by schedule most unwise 240

The tariff in business 241

An important word from Germany 242

Schedule revision unwise 240

Sheep, Canadian, disappearing 562

Sheep, decrease in number of, United States census report, 1910 . . . 592

Sheep, in Australia, the number of, 190t)-1910 538

Sheep, number of, census report and National Association's estimate,

1910, compared 508

Sheep, number of, in the United States, 1911 509

Sheep, number of, in the world, 1911 554

Sheep, slaughter and movement of, in United States, 1887-1911 . . . 517

Shoddy manufacture, the English 350, 598

Shoddy manufacture. United States census of 1909 323

Sisal twine, resolution of the Boston Wool Trade Association con-
cerning 574

Size of factories, the. United States census report, 1910 604

Smith, George S., President, Boston Chamber of Commerce, address

of, at banquet in honor of William Whitman 202

Smoot, Hon. Keed, proposed substitute for Underwood bill .... 385

Smoot, Hon. Reed, quoted 381, 390

South African wools 548

" Special interest," the wool manufacture not a 10

Spindles engaged in the flax manufacture in Europe 355

Spinning, Colonial instruction in 276

Spinning schools of Boston, 1720 284

Spinning, woolen and worsted, wages for, in America and Europe . . 601
Statement regarding comparative cost of production of woolen goods in

the United States and Europe, by Julius Forstmann 414

Comparative cost of production 415

American and European machinery 416

Organizing a plant 418

Higher wages in the United States 419

Greater efficiency in European mills 420

636 INDEX.

Page

Comparative cost of material 421

American wools should be protected 422

Free wool would be unwise 423

Increased production of wool desirable 424

Other factors in the cost of production 425

Outlet for goods 426

Fashion an important factor 426

Foreign tariffs actually higher than our own 427

Schedule K not prohibitive 429

Correct basis for tariff revision 429

What is adequate protection? 430

Tariff for revenue and protective tariff 433

Revenue at the cost of American production 435

American market intensely competitive 436

Schedule K great revenue producer 437

Value of Tariff Board — German methods 439

Justice of time allowance between enactment and operation of new

tariff 441

Comparative cost of mill construction 443

Comparative wages in woolen industry in United States and

Germany 444

Steel, Henry M., obituary, with portrait 144

Steuart, William M., United States census reports .... 321, 459, 604

Stott, Hon. Charles A., resolution in appreciation of 3

Stuart, Hon. Edwin S., address of, at dinner to John P. Wood . . . 140

Study of kemps, a (with illustrations), by Howard Priestman .... 245

Suit, from the wool to the 37

Taft, President William H., reply of Tariff Board to letter from . . 372

Taft, President William H., veto message of wool bill 405

Tariff Board, letter to President William H. Taft 372

Tariff Board, value of the 439

Tariff discrimination in wools 25

Tariff for revenue and protective tariff 433

Tariff legislation, a review of attempted, by Winthrop L. Marvin . . 454

Tariff-maker, Congress the best 49

Tariff revision, correct basis for 429

Tariff revision, German methods of 439

Tariff revision, resolution of the National Association of Wool Manu-
facturers against 3

Tariffs, foreign, higher than American 427

Tariffs, how made abroad 34

Textile directories, the 607

Textile education among the Puritans, address before the Bostonian

Society, April 18, 1911, by C. J. H. Woodbury, Sc.D. ... . 265

Prosperity of the Puritan colonists 266

INDEX. 637

Page

The Puritan purpose 268

Cotton at the time of the colony 270

New England traders before the settlement 273

English restrictions upon commerce in cloth 274

Instruction in spinning 276

The supply of cotton for New England 282

The supply of wool for New England 283

Spinning schools of Boston 284

Textile training, the old school and the new, by Professor Roberts

Beaumont 476

Textiles for commercial, industrial, evening and domestic art schools,

by William H. Dooley, review of 295

Tops, prices of 60's super, in England, 1910 154

Underwood bill, the, in the Senate 377

Underwood bill, vote in the Senate on the 397

Underwood tariff bill, the, passed by the House 371

United States census, report on cotton, hosiery and knit goods, com-
bined textiles, 1909 459

United States census, report on sheep of shearing age April 15, 1910,

and wool product 591

Decrease in number of sheep 592

Increase in wool production 593

Average weight of wool per fleece 594

Value of wool per pound and per fleece 595

Tabular statement 596

United States census, report on the size of factories, 1909 604

United States census, report on woolens and worsteds, carpets, felts,

hats, shoddy, hosiery and knit goods, 1909 307

Uruguay wools, imports of, into the United States, 1904-1911 . . . 553

Veto message of the wool tariff bill. President Taft's 405

Vinton, Frederic P., portrait of William Whitman 183, 186

W.
Wages in America and Europe, comparative, report of committee of

the National Association 600

Wages in England and America compared 340

Wages in Germany 12

Wages in the United States higher than elsewhere 419

Wages in woolen and worsted mills. United States and Germany . . . 444
Warren, Hon. Francis E., address of, at annual banquet, Washington,

D.C 45

Revenue side of Schedule K 45

Ten points for protection 46

638 INDEX.

Page
Wool growers and wool manufacturers partners in a common in-
dustry 47

Critics of Schedule K 49

Congress the best tariff-maker 49

Carpet and clothing wools 51

Magnitude of the wool industry 52

Wool must be protected 54

Wool cannot endure lower rates 55

Canada as a warning 56

Warren, Hon. Francis E., remarks of, at the wool growers convention,

January 4, 1911 74

Weaving and finishing, wages in America and Europe 603

Weeks, Hon. John W., remarks on the American Woolen Company . 368
Whitman, William, address of, at forty-sixth annual meeting, Washing-
ton, D.C. • 4

Whitman, William, letter to the National Wool Growers Association . 77

Whitman, William, portrait of Frontispiece

Whitman, William, presentation of oil painting of, by Association . . 186
Whitman, William, resolution on the retirement of, from the Presi-
dency 4

Whitman, William, services on the Board of the Equitable Life Assur-
ance Society of New York 195

Whitman, William, services to the Commonwealth 201

Whitman, William, speech of, at banquet in his honor, April 26, 1911 . 210

His early life 211

James M. Beebe, Richardson & Company 213

Treasurer of the Arlington Woolen Mills, 1867 214

Connection with other mills 215

Eben D. Jordan 216

Growth of the textile industry 217

Increased efficiency of machinery 219

Abraham Marland, testimony before Committee on Manufactures,

1828 221

The early manufacture of worsted dress goods 222

The introduction of the Xoble comb 223

The advance in the art of textile manufacturing 224

Woodbury, Dr. C. J. H., address before the Bostonian Society, April

18, 1911, on textile education among the Puritans 265

Wood, John P., President, address of, at annual banquet, Washington,

D.C 18

The business open to every one 19

No special favors asked 19

No great fortunes made 20

AVood, President John P., address of, at banquet in his honor .... 141
Wood, President John P., address of, at banquet in honor of William

Whitman 184

Wood, President John P., banquet in honor of 119

INDEX. 639

Page

Wood, President John P., presentation of portrait to Mr. Whitman . . 186

Wood, William M., address of, at annual banquet, Washington, D.C., 40

No discrimination against the carded wool interests 41

A baseless grievance 42

Strength of Schedule K 42

Narrow profits of the manufacturers 43

Wood, William M., address of, at dinner to John P. Wood 134

Unjust criticism of woolen manufacturers 135

Wood, William M., letter from, at Whitman dinner 191

Wood, William M., letter to the National AVool Growers Association, 80

Wool, ad valorem duties on 32

Wool, American, worth protecting 234

Wool and woolens in Congress, the various bills and the President's

veto, by Winthrop L. Marvin 361

A frank free trade measure 363

The protectionist opposition 365

The American Woolen Company not a monopoly 368

The Underwood bill passed by the House 371

Letter of the Tariff Board to President Taft 372

The bill in the Senate 377

The La Follette substitute 378

The Smoot substitute 381, 385

Senator Smoot's argument 390

The vote in the Senate 397

The revised La Follette schedule 397

Conference report 401

The President's veto message 405

Wool, as to tariff discrimination in 25

Wool auctions, Antwerp, 1911 537

Wool bill, veto of , by President Taft 405

Wool buyers association, the English 156

Wool, carpet and clothing 51

Wool clip of 1911, value of 512

Wool clip, value of the Australasian 542

Wool exports from Australia 539

Wool free in Canada 561

Wool growers convention, January 4, 1911, resolutions adopted by the, 75

Wool growing and manufacturing common interests 47

Wool growing, the magnitude of the industry of 52

Wool imported into Boston, New York, and Philadelphia by countries

of production and immediate shipment 525, 526, 527

Wool, imports of, from Argentina, 1904-1911 552

Wool, imports of, from Uruguay, 1904-1911 553

Wool, imports of manufactures of, 1905-1911 (table) 530

Wool must be protected 54

Wool packing, better, action of the Roubaix congress 482

Wool prices, the course of (with chart), 1911 519

640 INDEX.

Page

Wool production, increase of, United States census report, 1910 . . 593

Wool production of the United States, 1911 509

Wool production of the world, 1911 557

Wool review, the annual, 1911 499

Wool sales, London, 1911 531

Wool sales, Liverpool, 1911 636

Wool schedule, the attack on the, " Canadian Textile Journal "... 347

Wool season in Australasia, the 547

Wool supply, the annual, 1911 516

Wool, the early supply of, for New England 283

Wool, the plea for free 231

Wool, the romance of 486

Wool to the suit, from the 37

Wool Trade Association, the Boston, officers of 572

Wool twines, resolution of the Boston Wool Trade Association con-
cerning 574

Wool, value of, per pound and per fleece. United States census, 1910 . 595

Woolen and worsted exports from England 167

Woolen and worsted manufactures, census of 1909 ....... 307

Cloths, dress goods, etc 307

Carpets and rugs 316

Felt goods 321

Shoddy mills 323

Felt iiats, fur 326, 328

Felt hats, wool 327, 329

Hosiery and knit goods 330

Woolen manufacturing business, the, open to competition 19

Woolen spinning wages in America and Europe 603

World labor statistics — hours of labor 476

Worsted dress goods, the introduction of the manufacture into the United

States 222

Worsted spinning, wages in America and Europe 601, 602

Yarn exports from England, 1909, 1910 159

Yarns, prices of, in England 162

ADVER TI SEMEN TS

Incorporated 1865

Lawrence, Mass.

FRANKLIN W. HOBBS, Treasurer

78 Chauncv St., Boston

Wool Combed on Commission

Worsted 1 ops Worsted Yarns

Worsted Dress Goods

Combed Cotton Yarns

Mercerized Yarns

William Whitman & Co.

Selling Agents

Boston New York Chicago

St. Louis Baltimore Philadelphia

ADVEB TISEMENTS.

FORSTMANN & HUFFMANN GO.

PASSAIC, IM. J.

Mills at Passaic and Garfield, N. J.

Manufacturers of the well-known *F & H* V^ooiens

High Grade Broadcloths, Fine Woolen

and Worsted Fabrics for Ladies'

and Men's Wear

Fine Dry-Spun Worsted Yarns (French System)

in all varieties and counts for the

weaving and knitting trades

EXECUTIVE offices: Passaic, n. j.

SELLING offices

NEW YORK : Men's Wear, 334 Fourth Ave.
Dress Goods, 114 Fifth Ave.

BOSTON : 501 Washington St. PHILADELPHIA : 929 Chestnut St.

CHICAGO : Men's Wear, 206 South Market St.

Dress Goods, 53 West Jackson Boulevard

Selling Agent for Yarn: S. A. Salvage, 477 Broome SL, N. Y.

AD VEB TISEMENTS.

Pacific Mills

LAWRENCE, MASS.
and DOVER, N. H.

MAKERS OF

Printed and Dyed

Cotton and Worsted

Dress Goods

EXECUTIVE OFFICES

70 Kilby Street, Boston

.1 DVEliTlS KMENTS.

Tlie CieveiaDil Worsleii jlliiis Go.

GEOKGE H. HOl>GSON, General 3Ianager

HANUFACTURERS OF

ALL WORSTED FABRICS

Plain and Fancy Weave Serges
Skein Dye Fabrics and Mixtures

For Ladies* and Gentlemen's Wear

L-O^K A.T TI-HE: C^L-^T"!

MILLS AT

CLEVELAND. OHIO

RAVENNA, 0. JAMESTOWN. N. V. PHILADELPHIA, PA.

AUVERTISEMENTS.

BOTANY WORSTED MILLS

PASSAIC, N. J.

Manufacturers of

Fine Ladies' Dress Goods
Cloths and Men's Wear Goods

and

Fine Worsted Yarns— Dry Spun

HAIN OFFICE: PASSAIC, N. J.

Dress Goods Sales Rooms :

NEW YORK: PHILADELPHIA:

2fX) Fifth Avenue, Fifth Ave. Bldg. Bard Bldg. , 9th and Chestnut Streets

BOSTON:
67 Chauncy Street

CHICAGO: SAN FRANCISCO: ST. LOUIS:

157 W. Adam.? St. R^x>m 462 Century Bldg.

Phelan Bldg. Room 544

KANSAS CITY: CLEVELAND: MINNTAPOLLS:

Baltimore Hotel Room ^je Room 809

Room 437 Rockefeller Bldg. Palace Bldg.

DETROIT:
Washington Arcade Bldg.

rien's Wear Sales Rooms :

NEW YTJRK: CHICAGO:

200 Fifth Avenue, Fifth Ave. Bldg. 157 W. Adami? Street

REPRESENTATIVE FOR WORSTED YARNS:

WALTER D. LARZELERE, 300 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa.

A D VER T I SEMEN TS

JEREMIAH WILLIAM5 & CO.

WOOL

300-302 SUMMER STREET,
BOSTON

BROWN Ca ADAMS

—WOOL—

Commission MercKants

273 SUMMER STREET

Jacob F. Bro-wn
Samuel G. ^dams
Hdnivindl f. Iceland

^ BOSTON

J. KOSHLAND & CO.

WOOL

Commission Mercliants

268-272 SUMMER STREET

BOSTON = - MASS.

AD VER TISEMENTS

HALLOWELL, JONES & DONALD

FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC

WOOL

w.LUAM E. JONES 252 SUMMER STREET

FRANr<: W. HALLOWELL

WILLIAM ELLERY

GORDON DONALD BOSTON

LEIGH & BUTLER,

Successors to EVAN ARTHUR LEIGH,
232 Summer Street, = = Boston, Mass.

PLATT'S Improved Machinery for Preparing, Drawing and Spinning
French Worsted Yarns.

PLATT'S Woolen and Worsted Carding Engines—Special Designs.

PLATT'S Cotton, Cotton Waste, Woolen and Worsted Mules.

PLATT'S Special Machinery for making Cotton Waste into Yarns

FOREIGN CLOTHING WOOLS

FOR CARDING AND FRENCH COMBING

DIRECT

FROM THE GROWER TO THE AMERICAN MANUFACTURER

BEST CLIPS FROM PUNTA ARENAS

HIGH 1-4. AND 3-8 GRADES

LIGHT SHRINKAGE URUGUAY FINE CLOTHING WOOL

CHOICEST AUSTRALIAN FINE AND MEDIUM CLOTHING WOOL

Lowest Possible Net Costs— C. I. F. American Porta.
Very Favorable Financial Arrangements.

DANIEL S. PRATT & CO., importing commission Merchants
Telephone Oxford 8. 185 Summer Street, Boston, Mass.

ADVER TI SEMEN TS

Lowell
Textile School

Thoroughly Practical Instruction
Given in Every Branch of

TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

DAY and EVENING CLASSES

One of our five regular courses of instruction is :

Woolen and Worsted flanufacturing.

This includes wool sorting, scouring, picking, carding and spin-
ning ; worsted combing, drawing, spinning, twisting ; woolen and
worsted warp preparation. Weaving on all varieties of looms.
Textile Design with cloth analysis and calculations ; Chemistry
and Dyeing.

The equipment of all departments is complete for practical in-
struction. Woolen and worsted department includes French spin-
ning as well as the English or Bradford system. The Finishing
department is thoroughly equipped with the latest woolen and
worsted machines. Practical instruction in wool sorting by
practical men.

REGULAR COURSES ARE:

1. Cotton Manufacturing: 3. Textile Desi§:nin§:

2. Wool Manufacturing: 4. Chemistry and Dyeing

5. Textile Engineering

Catalogue will be seat free on application to

CHARLES H. EAMES, Secretary,

Lowell Textile School,

LOWELL, MASS.

AD VER TISEMEN TS

General Electric Company

Induction Motors

in the mill result in reduced operating and main-
tenance costs, besides increasing the output and
quality of the product. Reduced building expenses
and increased working space also follow as direct
results of the adoption of electric drive. This is
due to the elimination of heavy and bulky line
shafting and the consequent ligliter construction
materials required. Of the total power supplied
through electric motors to textile mills in this
country 75% is delivered by GE motors. There's
a reason.

Principal Office: Schenectady, N. Y. '"'^iS^/s't'^BoL.,™. n.

A. KLIPSTEIN & COMPANY,

129 PEARL STREET, NEW YORK.

DYESTUFFS AND CHEMICALS.

Agents for the Society of Chemical Industry,
Basle, Switzerland.

fAST COTTON BLIES AND BLACKS.

Also Full Line of Dyes for Union Goods.
Write for Particulars.

CAUSTIC POTASH 90 Per Cent.

For Wool Scouring.

BRANCHES:

BOSTON 283-285 Congress Street.

PHILADELPHIA 50-52 N. Front Street.

PROVIDENCE 13 Mathewson Street.

CHICAGO 145=147 W.KinzieStreet.

MONTREAL 34 St. Peter Street.

10 ADVERTISEMENTS.

Philadelphia Textile
School

of the

Pennsylvania Museum and School
of Industrial Art

Established 1884

WOOL, WORSTED, COTTON,

SILK

Courses of Study include the Technicalities of all Varieties
of Textiles. No Academic Studies.

Adequate Mechanical Equipment.

Especial Attention given to tlie Practical Application
of tlie Instruction

Illustrated Circular and Partial List of Former Students with their
Occupations, Sent on Application to

E. W. FRANCE, Director

PINE and BROAD STREETS, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

AD VER TI SEMEN TS.

Northrop Worsted Looms

ARE IN SUCCESSFUL OPERATION AT THE

ARLINGTON AND PACIFIC MILLS,

Lawrence, Mass.,

SAVING MORE IN PROPORTION THAN ON COHON WEAVES

DRAPER COMPANY

HOPEDALE, MASS.
J. D. CLOUDMAN: Southern Agent

4.0 SO. FORSYTH STREET, ATLANTA, GA.

AD VERTISEMENTS.

Worsted Machinery

MADE IN THE

United States,

LOWELL MACHINE SHOP,

LOWELL, HASS.

SPINNING FRAMES with caps, rings, or flyers
and any kind of spindles for long or short
wool, and any gauge of rollers.

DANDY ROVERS and REDUCERS with all
latest improvements

WEIGH BOXES and DRAWING BOXES with
any kind of rollers and any number of
spindles.

GILL-BOXES for drawing, fitted with cans or
spindles.

GILL-BOXES for preparing before comoing and
finishing afterwards.

MODIFICATIONS will be made of the above
machinery to suit different kinds of work.

REPAIRS for the foregoing furnished upon short
notice.

ADVER TI SEMEN TS.

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14 ADVERTISEMENTS.

THE

Whitin Machine Works,

WHITINSVILLE, MASS.

BUILDERS OF

Cotton Machinery.

Cards, Combing Machinery,

Railway Heads, Drawing Frames,

Spinning Frames, Spoolers,
Twisters, Reels, Long Chain Quillers,

Looms.

Southern Agent:

STUART W. CRAMER,

38 South Tryon St., Charlotte, N.C.
Equitable Building. Atlanta, Ga>

AD VER TISEMENTS.

JAMES SPEED

HARRY STEPHENSON

SPEED & STEPHENSON

170 Summer Street, Boston, Mass.

Sole Agents in the United States and Canada for

J. B. FARRAR & SONS,

HALIFAX, ENGLAND.

WORSTED MACHINERY

Including Gill Boxes, Drawing, Roving, Spinning, Twisting and Yarn Finishing Machinery

JOHN DAWSON, Ltd.

Wool Washing aud Carbonizing Machines

JAMES SMITH & SON

Improved Xoble Conibn and Ball Wiiulera

DAVID SOWDEN & SONS

Looms for Men's Wear, ]>reB8 tioods,
hiningrt, \c.

WILSON & CO., BARNSLEY. Ltd.

High Class Mill liobbiiis
THOMAS BLACKBURN

Spindle Bauds and Tape

JOHN HETHERINQTON & SONS, Ltd.

Improved Worsted Cards and Mules
Duplex Woolen Cards with Joscphy Tape

Condensers, to take off up to ■J40 ends,
Improved Woolen Mules, tearnaughts, etc.

BOLDY & SON, Ltd.

Lister Nip Ccmibs, Hot Air Drying Back-
washing Machines, Urease Extracting Plants

HEARL HEATON & SONS

Grinding Tackle and Emery Fillet

S. HALEY & SONS, Ltd.

Card Clothing of Every Description

Machine Shop at Lawrence, Mass.,

For Repairs, Change
Gears and Parts

Fast Colors for Cotton and Wool

Helindone Colors

Indigo MLB

H. A. METZ O CO.

New York, 122 Hudson Street

Boston, 140-142 Oliver St. Philadelphia, 104 Chestnut St.

Providence, 23 S. Main St. Chicago, 317 N. Claris St.

Charlotte, 210 S. Tryon St. Atlanta, 1418 Empire BIdg.

San Francisco, 580-582 Howard St. Montreal, 30 St. Francois Xavier
Laboratories: Newark, N. J. [St.

SOLE AGENTS IN U. S. AND CANADA FOR

Farbwerke vorm. Meister, Lucius & Bruening

AD VEB TIS EM EN TS

You can submerge

TBAJ>E M>VKK

in boiling water and

leave it there for an liour or two witliout injury

€1. We can supply you with a Duxbak Belt that is absolutely waterproof,
or we will give you one that is steamproof . In either case you will have
a Belt that is impervious — a Belt that will run slack without slipping —
a Belt that will require but little attention and no repairs.

fL Where the belt load is heavy, where general
belt conditions are bad, where water or steam
or mineral oils will quickly rot out ordinary
belting, these are the places in which Duxbak
Belting is giving satisfaction to thousands of
Belt users.

Tanners
Manufacturers

NEWYOEK, 30-38 Perry St.
CHICAGO, 128 West Kinzio St.
BOSTON, 641-543 Atlantic Ave.,

Ooo. South Station
PHIL.1I3ELPHIA, 226North3dSt.
PITT3BUE0, 205 Wood St.
DENVER, 1752 Arapahoe St.
Brooklyn, N.Y., Cor. 13th St. 6

3d Ave.
EAMBUEG, GEEMANY, Auf den

Sande 1
OAE LEATHEE TAITITEEIES,

Bristol, Tenn.

A DVER TI SEMEN TS

Raw Material of Any Kind Varies

NO ONE CAN HELP THAT

But they- can help knowingly buying cheap grades of raw
material which need doctoring to make up into apparently first
class finished products.

H]^ Picked Packer hides used in the nianiifacture of Schieren's
Duxbak "Waterproof Leather Belting may be in some cases only
99% A-1 — if we could find any means of culling out that objec-
tionable Ifo we would not feel called upon to guarantee our
finished belts. We know that our process of manufacture is so
perfect that nothing of the original high quality of the hides is
lost in making belting, and the possibility of this l^/o (slightly
under A-1 quality leather) affecting the belting as a whole is very
remote. But we make this concession as a necessary one, simply
because we want you to know our side of the sale of belting. Your
side is to get measurements right, see that pulleys line up and
keep track of comparative results, as nearly as possible.

Schieren's Duxbak is guaranteed fully against water, moisture,
fumes of any kind and for 100% quality, not 93

WRITE FOR PRINTED MATTER— IT'S INTERESTING

Tanners
Belt Manufacturers

NEW YOEK, 30-33 Ferry St.
OHICA&O, 133 West Einzie Zi.
BOSTON, 641-543 Atlantic Ave.,

Ojo. Ssuth Stition
PHILADELPHIA. 226 North 3d St.
PITTSBUEa, 205 Wooi St.
DENVEE, 1752 Arapahoe St.
Brooklyn, N.Y., Cor. 13th St. &

HAMBURG, GEEMANY, Auf den

Sande 1
OAE LEATHEE TANNEEIES,

Bristol, Te&n.

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