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Full text of "Bygone Yorkshire"

THG 
UNIYGRSITY Of CALlfORNlfl 
LIBRARY 








€5t LIBRIS 

ian*MLyir\ Times 



BY(;Oi\E YORKSHIRE, 



. /■ ■mjj-^ ' -^■■'^^ -^r-jl-^ 







MICKLEGATK BAU, VORK. 



BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 



EDITED BY 

WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S. 

AUTHOR OF 

"OLD CHURCH LORE," "CURIOSITIES OF THE CHURCH, 

"OLD-TIME PUNISHMENTS," ETC., ETC. 




HULL AND YORK : 
A. BROWN & SONS. 

London: Simpkin, Marshai.t,, Hamilton, Keni", & Co., Limhed 



18C)2 




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y' G,?-"' 
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preface, 

T T gives me pleasure to once more be the 
-^ means of making another addition to the 
Kterature of the county I love so much. In the 
pages of this work will, I believe, be found 
welcome contributions to our local history. In 
preparing the work I had the good fortune to 
obtain the friendly co-operation of writers deeply 
interested in the subjects about which they have 
written. I offer to my contributors my warm 
thanks. 

William Andrews. 

Hull Literary Club, 

30th AwjUMt, 189:2. 



396051 



Contents* 

TACK 

Lakk-Dwkllixgs of Yokkshike. By T. Tindall Wildridgc 1 

Ax Ancient Monolith. By W. H. Thompson 39 

Relics AND Remnants. By John Nicholson 40 

Yorkshire Castles : Some of their Historic Associations. 

By Edward Lamplough ... 64 

Y'oRK Castle. By Sidney W. Clarke . . 74 

Castles and Castle Builders : Bolton Castle and the 

SCROPES 82 

Ramparts, Walls, and Bars of York. By W. Camidge... 93 

The Ivanhoe Country. By the Rev. Geo. S. Tyack, b.a. ... llo 

Knichts Templars. By J. J. Sheahan ... 124 

St. Mary's Abbey, Y'ork. By George Benson 145 

Byland Abbey : Its Historical Associ.\tions. By Edward 

Lamplough ... ... ... ... .. ... ... 154 

Robin Hood in Yorkshire. By Charles A. Federer, l.c. p. 164 

The Pilgrim ace of Gr.vce. By W. H. Thompson 174 

The History, Traditions, and Curious Customs of Y^ork ^^>c»*>, 

Minster. By George Benson t^^^ 

A Story of the Gunpowder Plot. By the Rev. Geo. S. 

Tyack, b.a 204 

The Spinning- Wheel. By I. W. Dickinson, b.a 213 

RiPON and its Minster. By George Parker 221 

RiPON Spurs. By T. C. Heslington 240 

Cai>tain Cook, the Circumnavigator. By W. H. Burnett 244 

Farnley Hall. By .1. A. Clapham 255 

Index 265 



BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 



CU 



Xafte:::=2)weUino6 of IPorftebirc.^ 

By T. Tindall Wildridge. 

THE researches and conclusions of science 
lead us to the acceptance of the general 
theory that at a period far remote from our day, 
though by no means at any early stage of the 
world's existence, the present arrangement of its 
crust, by a gradual alteration of the mundane 
equilibrium, took the place of a disposition of 
land and water differing totally from that now 
familiar to us. Our continents, it is proved, have 
taken the place of other continents whose slow 
submersion occasioned the vast oceanic expanses 
of the southern hemisphere. Geological facts can 
be read in the light of this theory ; but the 
strongest direct evidence, as so strongly adduced 
by Professor Huxley, is found in the considera- 
tion of the present state of the living organic 



2 BYGOXE YORKSHIRE. 

world ; that is in the geographical distribution of 
animals and plants. The innumerable coincid- 
ence (astounding in the face of any other theory) 
among the branches of the African, Papuan, and 
Australasian races are clear testimony of their 
being survivals of old-world types ; either in their 
continuance upon the fragments left of their 
ancient continents or in the new countries which 
rose to meet their footsteps as they hastily or 
insensibly retired before the rising waters. 
The fauna, other than the human animal, 
and the flora of those accidental remnants 
of the early continents, are also alone 
sufficient to warrant the assumptions to the 
acceptance of which the survivals of old human 
customs and folk matter have led. 

How often this awful oscillation — silent and 
slow in itself for the most part, though perhaps 
culminating towards crises, and almost necessarily 
catastrophic in its effects at one stage or another 
— has occurred, or to what extent present life is 
influenced by alternations of equilibria other than 
the last great reversal, are questions which 
nor conjecture nor science can yet touch ; they 
are closed doors, awaiting keys which geology 
may yet furnish. 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 3 

The abundant traces of that most recent 
re-adjustment of the globe — most recent, yet before 
all history — are corroborated by the hundred- 
tongued voice of tradition, and, moreover, a long 
rearguard of facts also remains yet in the misty 
region known as "prehistoric times" to keep up 
a line of communication, in a more or less defined 
manner, between Now and the earliest period 
of the present condition of the earth. 

I venture to think we have in the lake 
dwellings of the world a unique and an almost 
universal relic of those early times, not necessarily 
in any one instance dating from the turn of that 
measureless tide, but at any rate so far in the 
past that men had either the necessity which 
must have compelled existence among watery 
wastes, or had not yet lost the habits which earlier 
necessity had made characteristic. 

We have to consider here the water-dwellino^s 
which belong to prehistoric times. Yet it is as 
well to mention that, just as in other directions 
we find all the arts of the ancients having their 
counterparts among savage races of to-day, so 
there are to be found in many parts of the world 
tribes 3^et living on lagoons and at mouths of 
rivers, — in water-dwellings which have a strong 



4 . BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

family likeness to what we call the prehistoric 
lake-dwellings. This, of course, according to 
many circumstances which would have to be 
considered, may or may not help the theoretical 
view with which this paper commences, but it 
may obviate objection to reflect that, until a certain 
point of civilization is reached, the tendency of 
man is to continue to rule his life and actions by 
the ancestral standard. 

Narrowing the limits of the subject it may be 
briefly stated that a series of discoveries, initiated 
by Dr. Keller in Switzerland in 1854, and more 
amply illustrated b}^ Dr. Munro in 1890, in a 
magnificent collection of statistics, have estab- 
lished the fact that a broad and indefinite 
belt of Europe — including, Hungary, Switzerland, 
Germany, France, Holland, and the British Isles 
— contains an immense number of remains of 
ancient structures, which, built on piles or masses 
of sticks and brushwood on the beds of lakes, were 
the habitations, farm buildings (?), and strongholds 
of a people living through the Stone and Bronze 
ages, commencing in most primitive times and 
coming down by "a gradual, quiet, and peaceable 
development," to a period of artistic skill and 
absolute culture, till — and it is here that Mr, 



6 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Franks and Dr. Munro correct previous conclu- 
sions — they were finally driven out by a fresh race, 
which, after impressing its own character on the 
lake-dwellings, abandoned them. 

To come to the British Isles, the lake-dwellings 
of Scotland and Ireland, though including some 
early examples, are mostly of a date compara- 
tively late. Under the unmelodious name of 
Crannoges or Crannogs, they had been known 
for centuries, and have even taken part in the 
events of recorded mediaeval history ; though their 
archaeological import was not recognized till 1839, 
and not fully until the Swiss discoveries gave 
enlightened zest to inquiry. In these cases the 
late use of the structures as military fortresses 
seems to have obscured the consideration of their 
original purpose. 

In the lake-dwellinofs of the continent there 
have been found sufficient relics to afford a not 
altogether indistinct idea of the life and occupa- 
tion of the inhabitants, and it may be instructive 
to review some of the details, incorporating 
the conclusions to which they have given rise, 
before the Yorkshire examples are dealt with. 

The Lake-dwellers came into Europe as a 
pastoral people, provided with the cow% sheep. 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 7 

pig, goat, and dog ; they were not wanderers, but 
settled in groups, consisting in some cases of 
hundreds of faraiUes. The race did not Hve 
exclusively on the water, as there are remains of 
coeval hill-dwellings. 

They were likewise agriculturists. Their 
tillage is considered to have been extremely 
simple, but it was evidently systematic, and 
conjecture is given ample scope by Dr. Keller's 
remark to the effect that some of the products 
found are of a quality not excelled by the best 
growths of the present day. The chief crops 
appear to have been wheat, two-row^ed barley, 
and flax. 

Their food was the flesh of the domestic 
animals, and of animals of the chase, fish, milk, 
corn-meal, rye, crab-apples, plums, pears, sloes, 
acorns, waterchestnuts, hazelnuts, cherries, rasp- 
berries, grapes, and blackberries. The broken 
state of the bones found is a peculiarity of 
remarkable uniformity of occurrence. Not only 
are all marrow bones found broken up, but 
the hollow bones of the heads and jaws 
containing cellular tissue have been opened 
with a readiness which, by constant use, 
became almost art. Professor Rutmeyer adduced 



8 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

from this that there was ''no superfluity," 
but it is quite as feasible to suppose that the 
palates and cookery of the lake-dwellers were 
capable of rendering these parts, not the 
"• miserable pittance " he describes, but a dainty. 
From finding the jaws of dogs similarly cracked, 
it has also been held that those animals were 
likewise eaten ; the fact, however, of dogs being 
kept at all by the islanders, together with the 
finding of immense quantities of small bones 
which would, if the general conditions were those 
of scarcity, have been gnawed and eaten by 
the canines, points rather to plenty. 

The communities had their hunters and 
fowlers, whose game were stags, roes, wild boars, 
beavers, otters, and squirrels ; to which may be 
added the bear, wolf, and urus ; also geese, sw^ans, 
and other birds. As well as by their skill with bows 
and arrows, and javelins, they entrapped the 
wild animals by means of pits, and probably gins. 
They caught the beaver and the otter by means 
of floating valve-traps. They had also their 
fishers, who caught pike and other abounding fish 
by nets and line, by hooks of boar tusks, and by 
barbed darts. 

Their clothing would vary according to the 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 9 

season. They spun flax into thread, and by a 
simple process wove it' into cloth of va^^ious 
textures and patterns still existing. Sheep and 
other skins would be commonly used as clothing. 
Spindle whorls of stone and pottery, and parts of 
rude w^eaving frames have remained to us. They 
also made mats and ropes, and no doubt wove 
basketw^are of some kind. 

Corn-grinding (without removal of the bran), 
cooking, spinning, weaving, and the making of 
clothes would be the domestic occupations. 

What may be termed town-occupations would 
be pot making and w^eapon making. 

Pots are found of widely sundered degrees of 
fineness. Urn and plate forms are met, but mere 
jars are the most common. The material w^as 
the nearest clay mixed with gravel, quartz, or 
roughly pounded flint, and burnt with a moderate 
heat. The great bulk of the pottery is plain, but 
some examples are ornamented with indentations, 
bosses, and zig-zag ornament, some are coloured 
with graphite, and some with red ochre. The 
proficiency shown in attaining regularity of shape 
without a wheel is proof that pottery was the 
occupation of a '' trade," and probably the products 
were objects of barter. Red ochre is a common 



10 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

" find," and reminds us of the ancient German 
practice of artificially reddening the hair. 

The remarks as to trade apply to weapons. 
Flint was the primeval tool. It was less common in 
Switzerland than elsewhere. It was used to 
manufacture other tools of flint, of bone, and 
of stone, and the processes were chipping, grind- 
ing, and methods facilitated by the use of water 
and sand. Nephrite was also a tool material, 
but it is only met naturally in Egypt and Asia. 
Though found in the oldest lake-dwellings, it 
probably reached them by barter, and was 
imported in the form of tools already made, 
as no chips have been identified, and broken 
tools are found carefully re-ground. Flint itself 
is considered to have been imported in bulk from 
France and Germany into more southern locali- 
ties. Bone and horn were utilized in a variety 
of ways for weapons and implements, and the 
abnormal tree-forms produced by the gall insects 
were adapted into clubs and mallets. Betw^een 
stone and bronze times, there was a restricted 
use of copper. 

Upon the acceptation of bronze, the weapon 
makers gradually adopted bronze casting, using 
the stone forms as models, though with less and 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 11 

less adherence to them; ornament became in- 
creasingly easy, and elegance common. 

The introduction of iron, it is impossible not to 
agree with Dr. Munro, is synonymous with con- 
quest, and the undoubted advance made at its 
advent, in both use and beauty, was by a different 
race of people — the Kelts, who, following after the 
stone and bronze workers, whether Bythons or 
Goidels, first stamped the system with their 
mark, and then, as a racial mode of life, put an 
end to it. 

The other arts participated in the same forward 
movement. Pottery, though it never reached 
the Roman standard, became " fit and elegant." 
The texile fabrics took up patterns which became 
the prototypes of the tartans. 

The piles of the dwellings were straight stems 
of trees of the vicinity, mostly oak, beech, fir, 
pine, and birch. The trees were felled by fire, or 
by hatchet. The piles, of from 8 to 12 inches 
diameter, were driven into their places by heavy 
mallets and hand-stones, and were disposed in 
regular rows. The spaces between the outer 
piles were in some cases wattled together with 
twigs and lesser branches. A framework of 
trunks, pinned or mortised upon the heads of the 



12 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

piles, was the support for a platform of fir planks. 
Openings were left at some portions of the 
platform for the deposit of refuse, and the constant 
easting away of broken or disused objects 
occasioned large quantities of these to be 
accumulated in a way that reminds of the " oyster 
heaps" of Denmark. The heaps of refuse in 
Holland are sometimes 20 feet in depth. It is 
imagined also that the interstices between the 
boards of the floor were somewhat open. The 
walls were of clay, 4 to 6 inches in thickness, 
kept in position by a foundation of wattling or 
basket work. In the middle of the floor of each 
hut w^as a hearthstone. The roof was formed of 
bark, straw, or rushes. 

In other, and a smaller number of cases, the 
platform was built up on horizontal layers of 
brushwood and sticks, held together and bounded 
by rows of stakes and small piles. This 
description is styled the '' fascine." 

From the first period to the last the 
arrangements are similar. The difference between 
pile and fascine dwellings appears to be caused 
but by the difference of the situations, and the 
composition of the lake beds. As the period of 
progress set in, however, and when probably 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 13 

hostility became an increasinof factor, we find the 
dwellings further from the shores, the trunks 
are larger, and much of the timber is squared. 

It seems to be generally concluded by the 
continental archaeologists, in which opinion Dr. 
Munro concurs, that the reason of the choice of 
isolation by the lake-dwellers was what can only 
be termed a general hostility, w^hether between 
clan and clan, tribe and tribe, or nation and 
nation. The view of universal hostility, as the 
normal condition of those times, is contradictory 
of the peaceful progress so weightily pointed and 
argued upon by the archaeologists, that, though 
conflicts cannot be supposed to have been unknown 
or even rare, they have left so little general trace 
that the above conclusion, though difficult to 
refute, needs to be strengthened by more 
complete evidence before it can be admitted 
without question. These remarks only appl}^ to 
the stone and bronze ages, for there can be little 
doubt the race w^iich brought the custom of 
water-dwelling from the east, fell before a 
land-living: race which followed from the same 
direction, bringing with it a superior physique 
and iron weapons, and the manner of the end 
of the lake-dwellings of Central Europe is told 



U BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

by the signs of fire which so many of them 
bear. 

Dr. Keller, in his original report, stated his 
belief that the first consideration in the building 
of pile dwellings in the Swiss lakes w^s the wish 
to secure themselves from the irruption of human 
enemies and the attacks of wild beasts. In his 
work of 1866, however, he modified the statement, 
and abandoned the idea that the protection was 
against beasts. He was led to this conclusion by 
the authority of the eminent naturalist. Von 
Hochstetter, who states that '' wild beasts avoid 
the human race, and even uncivilized man is 
nowhere in the world so helpless as to fly to the 
water for protection from ravenous animals." 
The ferocious animals of the Alpine regions. Dr. 
Keller later admitted, were only bears, lynxes 
and w^olves, for history mentions no others, and. 
these are the only ferocious animals whose 
remains are found in or near the lake dwellinofs. 
He speaks of the absence of any record of the 
seizure of a man by bear or lynx, and quotes 
Conrad Gessner to the effect that the wolf does not 
attack men — unless his ordinary sustenance failed 
him — and Stumpf, who wrote in the middle of the 
16th century, that there were fewer wolves in 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 15 

Helvetia and among the Alps than in any other 
country in Europe. 

With regard to wild beasts, which would in 
England be the wolf, and more rarely the bear 
and lynx, it has to be remembered that a settle- 
ment is chiefly for the security of the females and 
more especially of the young, and there are 
numerous instances of wolves devouring children 
in ordinary times, to say nothing of the frequency 
with which the usual sustenance of the wolf does 
fail him. But if we look upon these settlements 
as in some measure farmsteads, we can have no 
doubt that in some, wherever flocks and herds were 
pastured during the day, they would be driven 
into pens or huts, even perhaps the cabins of the 
people, at night. Herodotus distinctly states 
that the Poeonians regularly stabled their cattle 
on lake-dwellings. Indeed the excreta of 
domestic animals are found in the relic beds of the 
dwellings. There can be little doubt, therefore, 
that the protection of the flocks and herds from 
wild beasts was one reason why the early settlers 
of Europe continued in their water-homes 
generation after generation. In the case of the 
Dutch "■ terp " mounds the circumstances were of 
course exceptional. But while contending that 



16 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

folding of cattle was one consideration, I hold that, 
whether Professor Hochstetter is ri<Tht or not as 

o 

to the animals, that it was a secondary one — and 
that there must be some other reason for so 
curious a mode of life, which, as I have ventured 
to suggest, was the continuance of primeval 
habit. 

It would have been more feasible to have 
abandoned the theory of protection against 
enemies, for Dr. Keller himself points out how 
peaceful and progressive was the development of 
human life in the settlements. He successfully 
controverted, so far as related to the epochs of 
stone and bronze, the theories of M. Troyon, 
who spoke of irruption of foes, and burnings 
of lake-dwellings as explanatory of the differing 
epochs, though Dr. Keller undoubtedly went 
too far in taking it for granted he had dis- 
proved the same for the iron age. The nature of 
the structures does not suggest that they were 
intended as a protection against forces of men. 
Their arrano^ement and situation is unstrateo^etic in 
the extreme, and though in cases they had inter- 
communication, in more they had none. Unless 
their construction above the water was very 
differen.t from what is supposed, they would afford 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 17 

little protection against determination. They 
were, to be brief, as destitute as a Yorkshire village 
of to-day of any pretence of fortification, and in 
most instances the buildings were in very shallow 
water. The Kelts did not apparently receive any 
check in their irruptions. 

Von Hochstetter held that the people had 
their chief settlements on land, and that the 
lake-dwellings must have been used for some 
special purpose, which purpose he does not suggest. 
But the almost universal discovery of all the 
implements of household economy, as Dr. Keller 
observes, — and the evidences of their active use, — 
show that the structures were residences during 
many centuries. 

Upon the whole, the grade of civilization of the 
continental lake-dwellings cannot be considered 
low, and the conditions must have been tolerable 
even to comfort, pre-necessitating a long period 
of applied activity and more or less continuous 
peace. 

It is an ascertained fact that population, broadly 
speaking, increases in the ratio and as the result 
of rising opportunities and possibilities 
of support, rather than that increase of 
population compels the finding of new means. 



18 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

The withdrawal of water from the land by- 
Nature's drainage, and especially by her peat- 
fillings giving new levels, together with the 
reduction of forests to fields, gave the opportuni- 
ties. More land became available, populations 
grew up by the sides of the lake-dwellings, which, 
now in the hands of a new race without the water- 
instincts of their predecessors, fell into compara- 
tive desuetude. There is a note of this heard 
in early literature. Hippocrates (born 460 B.C.) 
speaks of the lake-dwellers as seldom visiting 
the city or markets. 

Several instances might be given of later 
continuance. In the 13th and 14i:h centuries 
the Apanoean lake-chain had a lake called the 
Lake of Christians, because occupied by Christian 
fishermen, who lived in wooden huts on piles. 
The still later use of the Irish and Scotch 
Crannogs might be mentioned, but these were 
scarcely inhabited as ordinary dwellings, but as 
fastnesses, fortresses, and prisons, with mediaeval 
superstructures of stone. The English examples 
are earlier than either the Scotch or Irish. 

In leavinof the consideration of the abandon- 
ment of the dwellings, it is to be noted that the 
firing of a large number of the Swiss examples 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 19 

not only caused the structures to be left in haste 
with all their paraphernalia upon them, but in 
many instances caused the permanent preservation, 
by carbonization, of details which would otherwise 
have become obliterated in a few years. 

There is at least one instance of a water- 
dwelling in Wales. 

In England, water-dwellings are represented at 
present by remains found in London, in 
Berkshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, and lastly in the 
East Riding of Yorkshire. 

It is the series of discoveries in the last named 
with which we have to do. The remains consist 
of an indefinite number of structures at and near 
Ulrome, in Holderness, and of one instance near 
the mouth of the River Hull ; and all the 
examples are practically along the course of the 
same ancient stream. 

The low-lying situation of Holderness, and the 
great extent to which its surface formerly lay 
under water, are facts so well known that it may 
seem unnecessary to do more than merely allude to 
them. A few words more, however, may be useful. 
The reason of the present abundance of water in 
the district is of course the fall from the wolds, of 
which Holderness and parts to the west are the 



20 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

natural basin. Before, however, the \'et con- 
tinuous encroachment of the North Sea had 
removed so much of the eastern margin of the 
district, there is no doubt that the coast hne was 
much higher than at present, and formed an 
effectual barrier to the wold shed, so that its only- 
escape was southward towards the Humber. 
The surface of the country, rarely a plain, was 
chiefly characterised by innumerable hollows, in 
many cases of considerable extent. This con- 
formation naturally led to the accumulation of large 
bodies of water in lagoons which, connected by 
sinuous necks and streamlets, cut up the land into 
a multitude of islands, and slowly concentrated 
themselves in the River Hull. The earliest 
name of the inhabitants of East Yorkshire was the 
Parisii, the "dwellers in the watery district," 
and doubtless the designation of these people, 
said to be Brigantes, was scarcely a tribal 
distinction, but simply owing to their residence 
in this locality. The etymologies of the district 
are full of the same aqueous references, as 
Holderness, Hull, and the numerous combinations 
of ey (sea) an island. Doubtless under Paris yet 
lie the beams of lake-dwellings. 

In process of time, the peat era commenced, 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 21 

and the meres and lakes began to fill up, till at 
length all the deeper hollows of the land were 
obliterated, and the waters spread in marsh- 
making expanses, in part drying up at a higher 
level and in part waiting for mediaeval Commis- 
sioners of Sewers to take in hand the w^ork of 
drainage, not yet perfected. 

Such being the character of the district it is 
not surprising to find that its early inhabitants, 
the Parisii of the Brigantes, or their nameless 
predecessors, lived in lake-dwellings. 

The establishment of this fact is due to the 
antiquarian zeal and judgment of Mr. Thomas 
Boynton, of Bridlington Quay, late of Ulrome 
Grange, Holderness. A collector and keen 
student of the prehistoric rehcs of the district, 
Mr Boynton, in 1880, then resident at Ulrome, 
was struck by the situation in which certain bone 
implements were found, and his subsequent 
examinations led not only to the complete 
demonstration of the existence of the remains of 
one lake-dwelling, but to the discovery of 
six or eight others. 

The importance of the preceding remarks as to 
the water system of Holderness will be seen when 
it is stated that these lake dwellings are situated 



22 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

on the course of a small stream, the Stream 
Dyke, more commonly called the Skipsea Drain, 
which now runs into the sea at Barmston, but 
which previous to the inauguration of the 
Beverley and Barmston Drainage scheme, just 
before the end of the last century, was a natural 
tributary of the river Hull. The coastline being 
broken down, the waters have now a certain 
amount of eastward escape. 

The circumstances of the discovery were as 
follow. In the spring of 1880 the Drainage 
Commissioners having had occasion to deepen the 
Skipsea drain, which has a very heavy bed of 
mud, Mr. Boynton observed among the earth 
thrown out upon one of his fields, " the West 
Furze" several implements of perforated bone. 
Causing the earth to be turned over, he was 
rewarded by the discovery of other similar 
discoveries, as well as of two picks made from 
antlers of the red deer, a piece of red ochre, and 
several stones shewing traces of having been 
applied to some use. In May of the following 
year the drain was at a very low level, and Mr. 
Boynton, taking advantage of the circumstance, 
had the water dammed ; a number of men were 
set to work and dug through the peat till a bed 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 23 

of gravel was reached at a depth of 9 feet 6 
inches from the surface. This excavation resulted 
in the finding of three more bone implements, 
at a depth of 7 feet, several stakes, piles, and 
remains of brushwood, which decided Mr. 
Boynton to excavate the site as soon as 
opportunity offered. In the following December, 
the work was begun, and upwards of 3000 cubic 
feet of earth were excavated, disclosing, as the 
digging proceeded, the remains of an artificial 
construction of wood, which strongly resembled 
the fascine-foundationed dwellings in the Swiss 
lakes. 

There was distinct evidence of the same site 
having been occupied by two consecutive 
dwellings, the foundations of the first being 
simply brushwood held in place on the peat by 
stakes of oak and alder roughly pointed, or rather 
rounded, and driven through the peat into the 
lake bed. In this portion were found the 
following objects : 

An upper grinding-stone of whinstone, 
bluntly semilunar in shape, 12 inches 

by 7. 

Two flint cores and about fifty large flakes. 
A flint knife. 



24 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

A flint saw (small). 

Two flint scrapers. 

Three natural pebbles, showing wear as 

hammer-stones. 
A granite anvil, circular and flat. 
A granite anvil having a small cup-like cavity. 
A large number of bone implements, viz. : 

Sixteen perforated articulate extremities of ox. 

A perforated scapula. 

A cervical vertebra, un tooled, but still 

retaining in the vertebral foramen 

remains of a shaft. 
These eighteen bones are considered not to 
be hoes or any agricultural implements, but 
weapons. With shafts of tough wood, they 
could, there is not the least doubt, be wielded 
with terrible eflect as clubs, maces, or "skull 
crackers." 
Two hand-picks of deer horn, in each case the 
main trunk of the horn being deprived of all 
the antlers, excepting that of the brow, which 
forms the pick. There is evidence that such 
picks were used for quarrying, though doubt- 
less also for other purposes. One of these 
specimens shows a remarkable instance of 
the use of the flint saw. 



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26 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Most of the bone relics were found at the west 
side of the dwelhng. 
Other bones (food) etc : 

Ox, the ordinary species most abundant ; 
Bos longifrons and Bos primigenius. 

Horse or small pony, a considerable portion 
of skull. 

Beaver ; among these are several jaw 
fragments, one with the chisel-like 
incisors as effective as when they first cut 
down Holderness trees. Mr. Boynton 
states that the marks of beavers' teeth 
were abundant on the timber of the 
dwelling. [Is it possible that Man 
availed himself of a work the Beaver 
had commenced ? The situation is 
precisely such as beavers would choose 
for their dam, having been on a narrow 
strait between two lagoons]. 

Large Dog or Wolf, one jaw, uncracked. 

Pig. 

Sheep. 

Deer. 

Otter, posterior portion of skull. 

Goose. 

Other birds, small. 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 27 

Above this dwelling were the remains of the 
other. Above the brushwood w^ere placed trunks 
and branches of trees — oak,birch, ash, willow, hazel, 
and alder — in a horizontal position, arranged 
sufficiently squarely w^ith the plan, and so laid as 
to bind one another, vertical stakes further 
strengthening the mass and holding firmly the 
superincumbent layer of brushwood, one foot in 
thickness. The thickest trunks w^ere from 15 to 
18 inches in diameter and from 15 to 18 feet in 
length, and in many parts so preserved by the 
peat as to be quite sound. The stakes of the 
upper dwelling were undoubtedly sharpened with 
a metal hatchet. 

The upper dwelling was much larger than the 
lower, the foundation being built up from the 
lake peat bed on the north side. 

At the south end of the platform was the 
remains of a bridge or causeway about two feet 
wide, built of brushwood and sticks, like the 
platform, held in the position by upright stakes 
stuck in the peat at intervals of about five feet. 
It is considered that when the second dwelling 
was raised upon the inundated remains of the 
first, the causeway was left at the original height. 
It may on the other hand have been built so 



28 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

as not to form a dam to hold up the water in the 
northern lagoon. We can well imagine this foot- 
bridge being just at the ordinary level of the 
water, which in rainy seasons would flow across 
it. This causeway ran east and west across the 
end of the platform and communicated with both 
shores, and as well as being the access to the 
dwelling was, it is not unlikely, used as the bridge 
of this district. Where it adjoined the platform 
at the east side were two uprights, suggesting 
a narrow wicket. In the case of some Scotch 
crannogs and Swiss dwellings the causeways are 
considered to have been purposely sunk, so as to 
be familiar only to habitues. 

The objects found in the second dwelling 
belong, as a matter of course, to a later period. 
They were : — 

A bronze spearhead, much corroded, but 

perfectly complete, and with part of the 

wooden shaft still remainino^. 

A fragment of a jet armlet. 

Fragments of pottery, found in and near the 

site, since pieced together and found to be : 

1st. A plain pipkin or porridge caldron, 

with the marks of fire yet upon it ; 

dimensions 12 inches diameter at 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 29 

the widest part, below the mouth, 
which curls over to an inch less in 
diameter; the sides slope off' flatly 
to the base which is 7|- inches in 
diameter. The height is also 7^ 
inches. 
2nd. A noble jar, probably used as a 
corn storer ; height 2 feet 3 inches, 
greatest diameter 2 feet, round 
bulbous sides, base 15 inches ; 
with a thick round rim. The 
other is the merest crock, but this 
vase, though made without a wheel, 
shews a symmetry and regularity of 
contour speaking of long practice of 
the potter's art. Like other 
I pottery of this class, both vessels 

are made of clay mixed with an 
abundance of granular flinty 
fragments. 
The most noteworthy relics have yet to be 
mentioned. These are three human skulls with 
fragments of a fourth. All are of male adults, 
the interior grooves of the fragments of 
the fourth showing indications of great 
aoje ; the dura mater of these fraofments 



30 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

is preserved with surprising integrity. 
None of the three skulls shews any sign of 
violence. One of them has (separate) a portion of 
the upper jaw attached to the orbit ; it has four 
teeth, sound, small and worn flat in the way 
characteristic of teeth in prehistoric skulls, a 
peculiarity due to the mastication of much hard 
dry food, as well as to fine grit, which the system 
of grinding caused to be deposited in the meal. 
Considering the extreme hardness, however, of the 
granite or whinstone grinding-stones, it is 
probable that the latter reason is over-estimated. 
Such an appearance of the teeth may be an 
indication that these people lived largely upon 
hard cakes rather than bread made into 
loaves. 

Mr. Boynton to his discoveries of lake 
dwellings in this interesting district has given the 
distinctive names of the localities in which 
they have been found, or their indications 
observed. Thus the dwelling above described is 
at the West furze. It may be noted that this is 
the name of the field by which access to the site 
of dwelling is had from the Skipsea highroad, but 
that Mr. Boynton many years ago cleared away 
the furze which gave its name. In this field 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 31 

there are several hollows occasioned by the 
excavation of sand for the building of Ulrome 
Grange — a modern farmstead — and this was 
the probable source of the sand with which the 
lake- dwellers kept their platform and floors 
sprinkled. 

The other localities w^here lake-dwellings may 
be expected to be unearthed in the future are 
Round Hill, Barmston, Grassmoor, and Little 
Kelk, as well as several other places where 
Mr. Boy n ton, whose astute observation is not 
to be surpassed, declares prehistoric remains to 
exist. 

Round Hill has in fact been subjected to some 
small experimental excavation. The site appears 
to be larger than that of West Furze, but of 
similar character. Here also there are signs of 
two diflerent periods of construction, for, as 
pointed out by Mr. Boynton, the sharpened end 
of one pile had penetrated and remained in the 
stump of an older one, which must necessarily 
have become decayed before the other had been 
driven down. The brushwood here is thicker 
than that of the dwelling at West Furze. Up 
to the present, the discovery of relics has not 
been great. They are ; — 



32 BYGONE YORKSHIRE, 

A small stone celt. 
Part of a perforated stone hammer. 
Half of a jet armlet. Compared with the 
rude implements with which it was 
contemporary this is a work of great 
beauty and finish. Its 'ornament con- 
sists of ^YQ prominent ridges one at 
each margin and three in the centre, 
wdth two smaller in the intervals. 
If the bracelet has been turned, 
it has been by an imperfect instru- 
ment, though the probability is that 
it has been made entirely without any 
such assistance. 
This dwelling is to be opened out by Mr. 
Boynton by means of a grant from the Society of 
Antiquaries. The previous excavations by that 
gentleman have been entirely at his own expense. 
The depth and solidity of the surrounding earth 
render these explorations matters of no trifling 
cost, while there is an element of inconvenience, 
not to say danger, in the exhalation of marsh 
gases, which occasionally are so powerful that 
ignition would be possible. 

Withm sio^ht of this lake-dwelhno^ district looms 
the high artificial hill upon which the Norman 



34 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Castle of Skipsea stood. It is supposed, how- 
ever, that it was raised in prehistoric times. 
Poulson speaks of barrows near it, but Mr. 
Boynton asserts that the mounds in question are 
not barrows. 

The restoration shewn in the cut is ahuost 
purely ideal. To the west, beyond, is seen 
the elevation known as Goose Island, and which, 
there are numerous traces to prove, was anciently 
made into a veritable island by artificial cuttings. 
This, it was presumed, was used as pasture land, 
with perhaps a corn enclosure ; the ground 
occupied by the spectator — West Furze — is also 
high. From very slight indications, assisted by 
analogy with other lake dwellings, the platform 
is supposed to have been palisaded. If there 
were horizontal bars, they would probably be 
secured by thongs of hide, or by flaxen ropes. 
The form of the huts is simply copied from Swiss 
examples in which portions have remained, and it 
is supposed that, as in those cases, the walls w^ere 
of clay some four inches thick built upon wattle 
or basket work. The Swiss huts are known to 
have been thatched with straw and reeds, but the 
Ulrome huts are considered to have been covered 
in with bark. The hearth (no stone was 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 35 

discovered) is supposed to have been in the middle 
of the floor, and the only chimney an aperture in 
the roof, the primitive arrangement in most 
Iceland kitchens to-day. 

The Venezuelan pile-dwelling is given as afford- 
inof a vivid illustration of the modern savasre 
method. It is sketched from a photograph by 
Mr. Frederick A. Ober. 

The only other locality in Yorkshire besides 
Ulrome where any trace of water-dwellings has 
been observed is in High Street, Hull. In April 
1884, while workmen were excavating behind the 
old mansion now known as Etherington Buildings 
(numbers 50 and 51), in order to lay the 
foundations of a new warehouse, they met with 
a quantity of remains. These were several 
upright trunks of trees, oak and birch, the largest 
of which was about fifteen inches in diameter. 
Their tops, though not smoothly cut, appeared to 
have been hewn with a fair amount of neatness. 
They were not dressed in any way ; short 
stumps of branches projected from the sides, 
and seemed to have been intentionally 
left of about one length. The tops of 
the piles were met at a depth of about 
10 feet, and the removal of the earth round 



3C BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

them to a depth of 4 feet further failed to loosen 
them in the least degree. Between the piles 
were a number of branches and twigs of birch 
laid loosely in a horizontal position. Near these, 
and in other parts of the site laid open, about a 
quarter of an acre, to the depth of 16 feet was 
an immense quantity of bones, laid in various 
accumulations. These included bones of: — 

Ox. 

Calf 

Sheep. 

Lamb. 

Horse or Pony (small). 

Deer. 

Pig. 

Goose. 

Sea Fowl (indefinite). 
Many of the bones were reduced to a friable lime, 
many of the teeth having also the inner 
medullary portion decayed out as noticed in some 
of the Ulrome teeth. There was the usual 
characteristic of the breaking up of the marrow- 
bones and the cracking of the jaw sinuses. Birch 
leaves and twigs were found in small quantities 
elsewhere than near the piles, in places where the 
soil was black and peaty. The whole of the 



LAKE-DWELLINGS OF YORKSHIRE. 37 

remains were embedded in warp mud or river silt 
of a grey colour when dry, but at the time a mere 
soft black mud in which all objects were nearly 
indistinguishable. The workmen did not draw- 
attention to the remains until the time was nearly 
at hand for pouring in the concrete foundation. 
The owner of the premises, Mr. Alderman 
Samuel Woodhouse, f.r.h.s., on hearing of them, 
sent word to the writer. Going down immedi- 
ately, I secured the services of one of the labourers, 
who assisted me to collect a number of the bones 
for subsequent identification. Within a few 
hours the concrete was poured into the hollow. 
Had a prompt and continued investigation been 
made from the first finding of the piles, it is 
probable that further indications of antiquity 
would have been discovered. From the above it 
was evident, however, that the river had formerly 
had a deeper channel, had deposited its silt fully 
twenty yards from the present bank, and that 
here had been a structure, probably a pile- 
dwelling of prehistoric man. 

The lake-dwellinofs of the Stone and Bronze 
periods are the witnesses in history of a large 
proportion of the pre-Keltic inhabitants of 
Europe, who persistently lived up to their 



38 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

traditions till the laro'er-framed Kelts over- 



o 



whelmed them, and destroyed their system. The 
indications of Iron speak of the conquering Kelts, 
who relinquished the lake mode of life as readily as 
they seem to have taken it up. For Goidels, 
Bythons, or Kelts the lake-dwellings, peat 
preserved, have proved their Herculaneum. 



an ancient fIDonoIitb* 

By W. H. ThOxMpson. 

AMONGST the prehistoric monuments of 
Yorkshire, beyond doubt one of the most 
notable is the ancient monohth standing in the 
churchyard of the pleasant little village of Rud- 
ston, situate some five miles from Bridlington. 
Whether this stone owes its present position to 
the agency of nature or of man, has long been a 
debated question, but in either case there is the 
strongest evidence to shew that from very early 
times it was regarded as an object of more than 
ordinary reverence by our ancestors. And though 
in these later days not looked upon with any 
feelings of religious awe, even still it remains 
to antiquaries and scholars a relic of peculiar 
perplexity and interest. 

This remarkable stone, which is about 24 feet 
in height above the ground, is a huge block of 
fine close-grained grit, such, according to 
Phillips, " as might easily be obtained on the 
northern moorlands about Cloughton, beyond 



10 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Scarborough, to which ancient British settlement 
a road led from Kudston by Burton Fleming 
and Staxton." Its weight is estimated at about 
40 tons, it having been determined that its depth 
underground is equal to the height above. At 
the top of the same, are long furrows, but 
whether these are natural or artificial is regarded 
as uncertain. 

The mass is taller than either of the stones at 
Boroughbridge, in the North Biding, popularly 
known as the " Devil's Arrows," which in many 
points it closely resembles. Like as in their 
case, tradition has associated it with Satanic 
agency. The story is, that the devil did not approve 
of the building of Budston Church, therefore he 
flung this mighty missile, with the view of 
destroying both artificers and building. But his 
malice was futile, his sinister designs frustrated, 
and the stone remains to-day a memorial of 
ineftectual malignity. Certain it is that its 
appearance, " its broad, dusky mass," as has been 
remarked, ^' covered with black lichens, is 
wonderfully mysterious and * eerie,' especially 
when projected against an evening sky." 

The monolith is really of unknow^n age, and 
has been thought to be probably of sepulchral 



42 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

character. Standing, as it does, in a district 
thickly studded with the round tunuih of those 
hr achy cephalic Aryans of whom Canon Greenwell, 
Mr. Mortimer, and others, have written so 
much, it is not strange that the " Rud-stone " has 
been associated with the name of the so-cahed 
ancient Britons. It has been supposed, and with 
good reason, that we have in it a Druidical 
monument of the same mysterious people who 
erected the Titanic temple on Salisbury plain, 
"long-headed" or "broad-headed" Celts, or who- 
ever these aboriginal inhabitants of England may 
have been. 

The position of the stone in the village 
churchyard, and its close proximity to the church 
itself, goes a long way to support the view that 
once it was invested with some sort of reliofious 
character. The reverence for " holy " stones was 
formerly a very widespread form of religious 
superstition, both amongst civilized and un- 
civilized peoples. And this further we know, 
guided by the general conduct of the early and 
mediaeval churches, that there was no spot where 
they were more likely to erect a Christian 
sanctuary than in the vicinity of a place 
hitherto connected with heathen rites and 



AN ANCIENT MONOLITH. 43 

ceremonies. It/|fwas their common policy to 
replace a pagan god by a Christian saint, a 
heathen festival by a holy day, and a temple of 
idols by one dedicated under a purer faith. 
Nothing more natural than that a church should 
be erected close to a monolith, and regarded with 
superstitious veneration. 

At the same time, we consider that the 
popularly current etymology of the name 
Kudston, should be taken with a great deal of 
reservation. Rood-stone, it is said, rood as in 
rood-loft, that is, stone of the cross or holy stone, 
it being suggested that it may have been a cross 
of the early Christian converts. Unfortunately, 
however, this does not altogether pass muster 
with the philologists. Some others again say, 
rud, that is red stone, but it happens the block 
is not, nor ever was, red. The derivation given 
by the Rev. E. M. Cole, in his " Scandinavian 
Place Names," whilst it does not in any way 
conflict with the theory as to the sacred character 
of the monument, certainly better falls in with 
modern philological methods. He derives it 
from the old Norse " hrodr-steinn," that is '' famous 
stone," and we personally strongly incline to this 
etymology. The great pre valance of Scandinavian 



44 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

place-names in Yorkshire, and indeed in the 
north of England generally, is a fact so 
universally admitted that it needs from us 
no proving. The '' Rud-stone " was just such 
an object as to strike the imagination of 
the fierce northern vikings, and if they 
found no ready-made legend as to its 
history existant, nothing more natural than 
that they should proceed to invent some 
wild theory of their own to account for its 
presence. We very shrewdly suspect, indeed, 
that the tradition we have already - referred to 
as to the Satanic origin of this interesting 
relic, might be traced back to the old Norse 
mythology. 

Nobody can reasonably question that the 
village owes its name to the monolith. And this 
being so, the form in which it appears in 
Domesday Book, undoubtedly gives support to 
Mr. Cole's hypothesis. There it appears as 
Rodestan and Rodestein, a very close following 
to the etymology we have quoted. 

Concerning the origin and character of 
prehistoric monuments there must always, in the 
very nature of things, be a certain amount of 
perplexity and doubt. And the present case in 



AN ANCIENT MONOLITH. 45 

point is no exception to this general rule. 
However plausible our theories may be, and 
however near our surmises may approach to the 
truth, the early story of this rude obelisk must 
ever remain more or less obscure, veiled in the 
dim mists of a long bygone past. 



1ReliC6 anb IRcinnant^. 

By John Nicholson. 

IN a glass case in the Mortimer Museum, 
Driffield, is an oak stake from the lake- 
dwelling at Ulrome. It is warped and twisted 
out of shape through being inadvertently placed 
too near a hot fire in drying ; but it bears upon it 
most eloquent marks of unwritten history. The 
pre-historic man, who took this stake to serve as 
a support to the platform on which his and other 
dwellings stood, took his bronze saw to shorten 
the timber ; and as he sawed with his imperfect 
tool he turned the wood round, so as to ring it 
and make it break easily. We have seen boys do 
the same to-day, and like the man of old, the}^ 
formed a spiral instead of a circle, and gave up 
the work in disgust. Both bronze and flint tools 
were discovered in the ancient British dwelling- 
place at Ulrome, but the narrowness of the saw 
mark on the piece of oak led me to the conclusion 
that it was the work of the men of the Bronze 
age rather than of the Stone age. 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 47 

Further traces of these Ancient Britons as 
hill-men may be found in the pit dwellings on 
Baildon Moor, on the North Yorkshire Moors, in 
the well-known village near Bempton ; and a 
series of pits in a grass field at Great Kendall, 
near Driffield may, I venture to affirm, be taken 
as relics of the Britons, who roamed and lived 
here ere Caesar's legions disturbed them. If the 
circular, rustic, coarse-thatched summer-houses 
found in our parks and gardens were partly sunk 
in the ground, they would give not a bad idea of 
the rude dwellings of these ancient Britons, but 
to render the likeness^ more complete, they would 
need a hole in the roof, by which escaped the 
smoke of the fire kindled on a flat stone in the 
middle of the floor. 

While the farm men were ploughing on the 
farm at High Bonwick, near Skipsea, two years 
ago, the ploughshare struck against a large stone, 
which when unearthed led to the discovery of 
many others, two cart loads being taken away. 
Among them was a quern stone or hand-mill for 
crushing grain. Believing the slight mound to 
have been a tumulus, Mr. Topham invited me to 
assist in excavating it. A trench dug across it 
revealed marks of cremation ; charcoal, lime, and 



48 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

burnt earth being plentiful. Pieces of imperfectly 
burnt pottery, of coarse material were discovered, 
forming parts of large vases having wide mouths 
of eleven inches diameter. Several pieces of this 
grayish pottery lie before me as I write, the 
workmanship shewing the contact of a higher 
civilization than that of the untutored Briton, so 
that these pieces must be called Romano-British 
pottery. 

Beyond these silent mounds and deserted pit- 
dwellings, that speak eloquently to the learned, 
with halting and stammering tongue to the 
observant, and wdth no speech to the unlearned 
and unobservant, we have little to remind us of 
the aborigines of these islands. Our river names 
— Derwent, Aire, Esk, Don, Swale, Tees. Ure, — 
are all ancient British. Such names seem imperish- 
able, like the flint of which they fashioned 
their arrow heads and their other weapons and 
tools. Houses and the w^ork of men's hands may 
be destroyed and sw^ept off* the face of the earth, 
but these names are like the rivers themselves, 
" men may come and men may go, but they go 
on for ever." Penygant and Otley Chevin, and 
perhaps Ben Rhydding shew marks of early 
British parentage. In Westgate, Driffield, there 



nELICS AND REMNANTS, 49 

used to be a pool of water called the Plash. 
This name, and Hard Flask, Malham, probably 
retain the British word Jieasg, a marsh or wet 
place. 

Now another class of persons appears, a race of 
soldiers comes to the front. They came, they 
saw, they conquered, and the remnants of their 
macadamised military roads or streets, with their 
castras or camps, are evidence of their genius and 
skill. Under the Romans, York became the 
second if not the first city in the land. Hither 
came the emperors, the proudest of their day, and 
if Constantino the Great were not born in the 
ancient city, capital of our broad-acred shire, 
'twas there he assumed the imperial purple, and 
had presented to him the Tufa, or globe of gold 
symbolic of his sovereignty over Britain. When 
he embraced Christianity, he mounted a cross on 
the globe, and this united symbol may be seen on 
the top of the sceptre swayed by the sovereio^n, 
and is frequently held in the hand of the 
monarchs depicted on the great seal. This same 
symbol crowns the mighty dome of Wren's great 
masterpiece, the cathedral of the metropolis. 

Of the magnificence of Roman York many 
relics have been found, but considerinof the lonsf 



50 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

residence of that race here, these antiquities are 
less numerous than might be supposed. Of the 
walls of York, the Multangular Tower and the 
wall which leads from it towards Bootham Bar 
are undoubtedly Roman ; but earthenware, glass- 
ware, metalware, weapons, coffins, and tesselated 
pavements have been found in large quantities. 

In Yorkshire, the Romans had stations at 
Cataractonium (Catterick), Isurium (Aldborough), 
Olicana (Ilkley), Eboracum (York), Cambodunum 
(Slack), Calcaria (Tadcaster), Legiolium (Castle- 
ford), Danum (Doncaster), Petouaria (Brough), 
Derventio (Stamford Bridge ?), Delgovitia 
(Malton), Praetorium (Filey). The sites of the 
last three are debatable, but probable. A well 
known antiquary complains that the Roman 
antiquities of East Yorkshire have been very 
imperfectly explored. As a Roman station on 
the Derbyshire Derwent is named Derventio, we 
have good reason to expect that a station bearing 
a like name in Yorkshire would be similarly 
situated. Stamford Bridge is the only place 
below Malton where the Derwent is fordable, and 
its distance from York accords very well with 
that given in the first Iter of Antonine. Thirteen 
Roman miles, that is nearly twelve English ones, 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 51 

brings us to Old Malton, which will accord well 
with Delofovitia. Here Roman remains of an 
extensive and important character have been 
found, while at Norton, a suburb of Malton, was 
found the stone sign of a goldsmith named 
Servulus, who before announcing his name and 
trade prays the Genms loci to be auspicious to 
him. Discoveries in 1857 at Filey yielded a 
fragment of an imperial inscription, the 
stone foundations and pillar bases of a large and 
important hall, as well as large quantities of 
pottery and other antiquities. The evidences of 
Roman occupation of this place would doubt- 
less have been much greater, had not a 
considerable part of the promontory on which 
the station stood been carried away by the 
encroachments of the sea. That a Roman road 
led from Filey to Malton is certain. Its course 
has been traced, and in the neighbourhood of 
Flotmanby it is commonly called *' The Street." 
There were, of course, many Roman roads in 
Yorkshire, as throughout the country, which are 
not described by Antonine. One of these is a 
road which appears to have diverged from the 
road from York at Malton and proceeded in a 
more direct line to Filey. Its existence is 



52 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

proved by several camps on its course, and by the 
name of a village through which it passes, — 
Wharram le Street. Another road also led from 
Stamford Bridge to Filey, the course of which 
has been traced for two-thirds of its leno^th. The 
line of the latter road is considerably to the south 
of the former. It is known as Garrowby Street. 
A third unrecorded road led from Brouo-h to 
Market Weighton, whence it continued forward 
to Malton, with probably a direct branch from 
Weighton to York. This road, which has 
been traced at Drewton, near South Cave 
and near Weighton, was till very recent 
times called Humber Street by the country 
people.^ 

York is the only city in the kingdom that has 
an Archbishop and a Lord Mayor. From 
Paulinus to Macla^yan a lontr line of 
illustrious men have filled the Archbishop's 
throne, and to this day they sign themselves 
Ehor, a contraction of the Roman name 
(Eboracum) for York. When the title Lord was 
bestowed on the Mayor is not known, but is of 
considerable antiquity. Not now, but in former 
times, the Lady Mayoress retained her title for 

* Boyle, '* Lost Towns of the Humber," p. 6. 



EELICS AND REMNANTS. 53 

life, but not so the Mayor, for does not the old 

couplet say 

" The Lord Mayor is a Lord for a year and a day, 
But the Lady Mayoress is a Lady for ever and aye." 

After 400 years of military occupation, the 
victorious sixth legion left York, and the Romans 
left Britain to defend their own lands from 
foreign invasion. Their career as an attacking 
force ceased for ever, and they offered an 
ineffectual resistance to the rude rough force that 
was destined to come to the front and change the 
destinies of nations. Luxury and indulgence 
were more potent to wreck Rome than the volume 
of valour which rolled from the North. 

Our place-names shew few traces of the 
Roman. Physical names given by the Briton 
live on, and the names of their towns, slightly 
altered, are easily recognised in their Latin dress 
in the Iters, but even names ending in caster, and 
which are accredited to the Imperial conquerors 
of the Briton, such as Tadcaster, Doncaster, 
Acaster, etc., were not so called by the Romans ; 
indeed on the whole map of Roman Britain there 
are only one or two names containing castra, a 
camp. Cave, on the Roman road to and from 
Brough, seems to be a Latin word, and is so 



54 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

named in Domesday Book ; while our common 
word, street, is from the Roman strata, a road or 
way. Even the great Roman road from Dover 
to Chester was named by the Saxons, WatUng 
Street ; and the great wa}' across the heavens, 
the Milky Way, was called Watling Street too, 
both after King Weatla of their mythology. 
Ermyn Street, another Roman road, is also 
named after Eormen, one of the chief Anglo- 
Saxon divinities. 

The Romans gave us the names of the months 
of the year, some of them, as July, August, 
named after their Emperors, some, as March, 
June after their divinities, and others after the 
order of their succession, as September, October, 
November, December. The Roman year began 
in March, and our civil accounts now are made up 
to March, and not up to December. 

Even while the Romans were here, there 
appears to have been an immigration of Saxons, 
who, though soldiers, were ever settlers. The 
genius of the race was, and is, to found a home. 
So, for over 300 years, the Saxon w^ave of 
emigration swept westward, drove the Celts 
into the highlands, mountain fastnesses, and 
corners of the island, and studded the country 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 55 

with iiigs, hams, and fords. During the 
Heptarchy, Northumbria was the only kingdom 
which possessed a silver and a copper coinage. 
The silver coins were the sceatta and the penny. 
The earliest sceatta known is preserved at York, 
and was minted there by Alfred of Northumbria, 
who was buried in Little Driffield Church in 705. 
Southern England may boast its Alfred the 
Great, but we may surely pride ourselves on our 
Alfred, surnamed the Wise, whose learning, 
wisdom, and courage are so touchingly related in 
Sharon Turner's glowing pages. 

On the steep romantic slopes of Drewton Dale, 
stands a huge mass of breccia formed of flint and 
chalk fragments, and known by the name of St. 
Austin's stone ; and tradition says that St. 
Augustine, the first Christian missionary to 
Britain, preached the gospel to the natives from 
this stone. Since then it has frequently been 
used as a preaching station. Such was the effect 
of the preaching of Paulinus, the first Archbishop 
of York, that he is said to have baptized 10,000 
persons in the River Swale at Belperby. He 
first consecrated the river, and then commanded 
the converts to go in, two by two, and baptize 
each other in the name of the Holy Trinity. 



56 BYGONE YORKSHIRE, 

The names of the days of the week are Saxon 
or Danish, for Professor Hodgetts builds up a 
beautiful fabric, which he calls *' The Myth of the 
Week," shewing that the Northmen, of set 
purpose arranged the names of the days of the 
week in the order they now are, in accordance 
with their mythological ideas. 

The Saxon and Danish drinking cups were so 
formed that they w^ould not stand upright, as the 
contents were intended to be drunk at one 
draught. They were called tumblers, and our 
drinking glasses bear the same name to-day, 
though they are not the same shape as the 
Saxon vessels, neither do they tumble w^hen 
placed on the table. 

It was nearly 400 years ere the Saxon 
kingdoms were united under the Northumbrian 
Egbert, and such county names as Kent, Sussex, 
Surrey, Norfolk, Suffolk, Northumberland, Essex, 
and Middlesex tell us of some of their kingdoms. 
But a fresh invasion was commencing that 
weakened the kinofdom of Ano^le-land, and the 
Saxons in turn became the prey of a foe, fiercer 
and braver than they, whose long boats scoured 
the oceans, and discovered America ages before 
Columbus was born, whose chisels carved runes 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 57 

throughout Europe, whose warriors formed the 
body-guards of Eastern potentates and dethroned 
Western kings. They poured into the land, and 
spread over it hke a flood, carrying death and 
destruction wherever they went. Their progress 
was as a fire, but a newer growth arose from the 
ashes, and Pha3nix-hke, England reappeared 
England still. These Northmen, like their 
brethren the Saxons, were colonists as well as 
soldiers, and what nation in the history of the 
w^orld has been such a colonisingf nation as ours, 
the product of colonising parents. A Northman 
gained a piece of ground, either by conquest, 
purchase, or appropriation, built thereon his 
farmbuildings, and named it after himself; just as 
a man to day will acquire property and name the 
the street after himself In like manner Saltaire 
got its name. 

Northern England was very largely peopled by 
these men from the North, and Yorkshire being- 
then, as now, a large county, they divided it into 
Thirds or Ridings. Lincolnshire was also 
similarly divided, but there these divisions, as 
Ridings, are obsolete. The Ridings were divided 
into Wapentakes, for political and judicial 
purposes, as our forefathers w^ere jealously and 



58 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

zealousy believers in Local Self Government. 
At the installation of a new governor or chieftain 
of a Wapentake each warrior in the district 
attended and touched the chieftain's spear with 
his, in token of fealty. This touching or "tigging" 
was the soldier's oath of allegiance ; and a childish 
imitation of this ceremony gives us the well- 
known game of " tig," in which he who does not 
"touch wood" is treated as an outlaw, pursued 
and run down, while those who do " touch wood " 
are exempt from pursuit. At the installing 
ceremony, a king's thane would claim exemption 
from swearing fealty on the ground that he gave 
allegiance to the king ; and so, in their game, 
children cry "Kings!" w4ien they desire 
exemption. 

The rush of the tidal wave up the higher reaches 
of the Humber and the lower part of the Trent and 
Ouse is locally known as the Egir, a word which 
savours strongly of the Northman, seeing that 
Oegir was his sea-god. Used first as a name for 
the sea, it has come to denote the Ogres with 
which nurses terrify children. The Humber was 
a frequent resort of the Northmen, and the 
roaring wave, as it came tumbling and foaming up 
the narrowing bed of the estuary, might well 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 59 

cause fear and alarm for the safety of their 
undecked sea-dragons, as even well-founded 
vessels to-day have to make provision for the 
oncoming of the Egir. Some philologists derive 
this word from the Anglo-Saxon egor, the sea, 
water. The word hrag shews a sad case of 
declension. Bragi was the god of eloquence and 
poetry, the guardian and patron of bards and 
orators, but in process of time his name came to 
signify fluent and honied speech. Thus hragr 
Karla was simply an eloquent man, and a further 
downward step degraded it as an epithet of vain 
boasters. So our Norse forefathers knew what 
hrag was, just as we know what it is. 

When two countrymen conclude a bargain or 
agreement, there need be no word spoken, only a 
clasp of the outstretched hand, and the 
agreement is complete — they have given their 
hands to it. The foUowinof instance is taken 
from the Story of Burnt Njal (900 a.d.,) 
— " Hrut held his peace for some time, and 
afterwards he stood up and said to Oswif, * Take 
now my hand in handsel, as a token that thou 
lettest the suit drop.' So Oswif stood up and 
said (speaking to Hauskuld), ^ This is not an 
atonement on equal terms, when thy brother 



60 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

utters the award, but still thou (speaking to 
Hrut) hast behaved so well about it that I trust 
thee thoroughly to make it.' Then he took 
Hauskuld's hand, and came to an atonement in 
the matter." So when the most bindinsr covenant 
(the marriage tie) is entered into, bride and 
bridegroom join hands at the altar. 

The dangerous ridge of rocks known as Filey 
Brigg, is said to have been built by the devil, 
who accidentally lost his hammer in the sea. 
Plunging in after it, he grasped a fish in mistake, 
and exclaimed " Ah ! Dick ! " and the fish has 
borne the name haddock ever since, while its 
shoulders bear the sooty impress of the satanic 
grasp. In this fragment of folk-lore we have 
relics of two Norse lays. The hammer gives the 
clue which leads to Thor, the Thunderer, the 
rumble of whose car formed the thunder, whose 
hammer flight formed the lightning, and whose 
flaming beard formed the streamers of the 
Northern Lights. The Lay of Thrymm tells us 
Thor did lose his hammer, that it had to be 
recovered by diving downwards, for the thief 
Thrymm had hidden it, 

" Miles measured eight 
Deep down in mould," 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. Gl 

and he refused to restore it until they brought 
him Freyja to wife. She would not consent, so 
Thor was disguised as Freyja, and as the 
marriage could not be solemnized without the 
hammer, it was brought forth and placed on the 
knee of the disguised bride. 

" Laughed then the Hard-hitter's 
Heart in his breast, 
As hard-hafted hammer 
He handled again, 



So came at last 

Odin's son to his hammer." 



That a fish should be seized is noteworthy, seeing 
that when the gods were chasing Loki, he 
changed himself into a salmon (not haddock), but 
Thor caught him by the tail. 

Belemnites are locally called thunder-bolts. 
Is this also a relic of the idea which represented 
Thor as the god who threw thunder-bolts ? 

The chano^e of Thor into the devil of the 
legend is easily accounted for, for when the gods 
of our idolatrous forefathers were dethroned from 
their seat of honour by a change of faith, they 
were not deprived of power. They became 
devils, evil spirits, and ghosts, and maybe 
they exercised a more marked influence thereby. 



62 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Freyja, the goddess of love and purity in the 
Norse mythology, whose name we have embalmed 
in Friday, was reverenced with love and adoration. 
Dr. Dasent, in " Norse Tales," says, " To that love 
and adoration, during the Middle Ages, one 
woman, transfigured into a divine shape, 
succeeded by a sort of natural right, and round 
the Virgin Mary's blessed head, a halo of lovely 
tales of divine help, beams with soft radiance, as 
a crown bequeathed to her by the ancient 
goddesses. Flowers and plants bear her name. 
One of our commonest and prettiest insects is 
still called after her, but which belonged to 
Freyja, the heathen ^ Lady,' long before the 
western nations had learned to adore the name of 
the mother of Jesus." 

If Thor has become the devil ; if Bragi, the 
god of eloquence, has degenerated into hrag ; and 
Oegir, the sea-god, into an o^re to terrify 
children, or into the egir of the Humber, it may 
be that Freyja has become the ghostly White 
Lady, often headless, so common to the north of 
England. 

The many personal names ending in so7i tell 
us of a practice adopted in England from 
Scandinavia, and among others of Norse origin 



RELICS AND REMNANTS. 63 

may be mentioned, Asman, Bee, Beal, Bligh, 
Bull, Brand, Bugg, Cant, Canty, Cattle, Clegg, 
Diggle, Dring, Flack, Gamble, Gant, Grice, 
Gunnill, Healey, Hmnble, Ingall, Jagger, Kelk, 
Kettle, Knot or Nutt, Lill, Lundy, Mundy, 
Pape, Kayner, Raines, Raven, Scaife, Schofell, 
Spink, Spurr, Starr, Stott, Straker, Swain, 
Thorold, Thirkle, Thirkettle, Tock, Torr, Turpin, 
Tutt, Vickars. 

Eventually Northmen and Saxon submitted 
to another Northman, known as William the 
Conqueror, and Englishmen became the common 
name of the people inhabiting this country, a 
name respected and feared abroad, and revered at 
home. 



l^orftebire Castles : Some of tbeir Ibistoric 
associations. 

By Edward Lamplough. 

FENCING themselves in the wild Northland 
ao^ainst warlike Saxon thanes and stubborn 
peasants, the Normans have left us many memorials 
of stormy mediaeval days. 

The frequent surges of Scottish invasion 
rolled back, or broke before they could reach the 
Humber, although Scottish spears flashed before 
the walls of York, and grim baronial fortresses 
frowned unscathed from savage wastes, where 
burning villages gleamed red in the distance when 
night closed over the scene. Built rather to hold 
the Northumbrians in check, than for the protec- 
tion of the borders, the Castles of Yorkshire were 
remarkable for number, strength, and importance. 
Built on rocky eminences, by the margin of 
rivers, beside the sea, on storm-wasted clifls, and 
in every position calculated to improve the 
prospect of defence, they are knit into the closest 
strands of national history — such strongholds as 



YORKSHIRE CASTLES. 65 

Pontefract, Scarborough, and York, being only 
secondary to the national fortresses of Dover and 
London. 

Legend, verse, and romance tend to immortalise 
these famous Northumbrian fortresses. Con- 
ingsborough, not to be described within these 
limits, was once a possession of Harold 
Godwinsson, and Sir Walter Scott has set the 
massive old keep in the glittering pageantry of 
his ^' Ivanhoe " with all the grace of the master 
artist. 

Many-towered Pontefract, built of Ilbert de 
Lacy, a kingly pile indeed, should be depicted 
against a background of stormy darkness, with a 
lurid tinge of sunset fire upon its turrets, for it 
was indeed a place of tragedies. Through its gates 
passed the rebel Earl of Lancaster, captive to 
the sword and spear of Sir Andrew Harcla and 
Sir Simon Ward, after the sanguinary day of 
Boroughbridge ; to emerge again, pallid from a 
dungeon of endless night, a disgraced and 
condemned man, the headsman before him, a 
howling crowd around, his only refuge the 
iofnominious and violent death that awaited him. 
In such sorrowful plight, but with less ignominy, 
in later years, when Bolingbroke wore Richard's 



66 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

crown, the betrayed Archbishop of York passed 
forth en route for his princely palace of 
Bishopthorpe, there to bend his neck to the same 
doom that had overtaken his brother, the Earl of 
Wiltshire, in the first days of Henry's triumph. 

Pontefract was the last prison that housed 
Richard of Bordeaux before the axe of Sir Piers 
Exton, or the slower and more cruel pangs of 
famine, broke down the walls of life, and left only 
the wan clay, eloquent of cruel death, to be carried 
to London for the satisfaction of his cousin and his 
late discontented subjects. 

Lord Grey, the Earl of Rivers, Sir Thomas 
Vaughan, and Sir Richard Haute, passed through 
its evil portals in Gloucester's murderous day, 
leaving hope behind, dead to court and camp, 
honour and ambition, to be haled forth at the 
tyrant's command, and meet a death little less 
tragic and cruel than that inflicted by assassin's 
steel. In Tudor days the castle became the 
scene of a strange military pageant, when the 
pilgrims marched in with banner and cross — the 
might of the Catholic north — bearing the insignia 
of Christ's wounds in witness of their holy war. 
When w^aiting and cunning had won for the 
executioner s sword that which soldier's steel had 



YORKSHIRE CASTLES. 67 

not dared to attempt, Lord Darcy paid with his 
hfe, on Tower Hill, the penalty of surrendering 
the King's fortress to the pilgrims. 

Sandal Castle stands in the foreground of 
those tragic scenes, fruit of Bolingbroke's'^ 
ambition, that are grouped around the roses of 
York and Lancaster. It is the wintry ending of 
the year, and Duke Richard is cooped within the 
fortress, with 4000 famous men-at-arms, the 
flower of the Yorkist chivalry. Outside, Black 
Clifford and a host of Lancastrians, resolute, 
impatient, watched the fortress until Duke 
Richard, tempted by the danger of a foraging 
party, or stung to action by the sight of an 
enemy, orders the warders to let down the 
drawbridge, and issues forth into open field, his 
falcon banner straining in the blast, amid pelting 
snow-flakes, all his chivalry behind him. Seldom 
has bloodier conflict been fought. Hemmed in, 
retreat cut off, Duke Richard fought out his 
quarrel to the death. With him fell the flower 
of his chivalry, and the young Earl of Rutland, 
happy in his early and honourable death. 
Thence the Lancastrian lords carried the heads 
of Salisbury and York to rot over Micklegate bar. 
Three months later, and young Edward of March 



68 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

entered the city, triumphant after '' the celebra- 
tion with pahiis and spears " on Towton Field, and 
set the headsman to work, replacing the wasted 
heads of his father and Salisbury with those of 
Devonshire and Sir William Hill. 

Another Yorkshire fortress, Cawood Castle, is 
said to have been a Saxon stronghold in the days 
of Athelstan, the bracelet-giver and the lord of 
jarls and heroes, who trod Yorkshire soil with a 
huge army at his back, when Anlaf invaded the 
North, and the defeat of the Saxon King would 
have entailed a change of dynasty. 

We may linger a moment over Knaresborough 
Castle, standing out boldly from a background of 
flame and smoke when the wild Scots were over 
the border in 1319, and burned the towns of 
Knaresbro and Skipton. During the revolt of 
the villeins under Wat Tyler, John of Gaunt's 
wife, Constance of Castile, came to Knaresbro, 
with torches gleaming redly on the dusky night, 
for the country was stirred to its centre, and the 
villeins of Beverley and Scarborough were deeply 
moved ; and her lord's castle of Pontefract dared 
not open its gates to receive her. The lady 
abode in Knaresborough Castle until Lancaster 
returned from Scotland. 



YORKSHIRE CASTLES. 69 

The Black Clifford comes before us in 
association with his castle of Skipton. He it 
was who slew young Rutland on Wakefield 
Bridge, and lived to shed first blood at Ferry- 
bridge, when the great Warwick, central figure 
of a disordered army, through which fear 
was working, slew his steed, and vowed that he 
would there make his stand, befall what would. 
Clifford, however, fell that day, being smitten on 
the bare throat by a headless arrow, and so lost 
his part in the carnage on Towton Field. 

Wild war-notes echo around the walls of 
Clifford's Tower, York, raised from blood and 
ashes of a city scathed by siege, assault, and 
famine ; but Kingsley has told the story of 
Danish storm and Norman siege, of Hereward's 
prowess, and Earl Waltheof s defence. 

Bosworth Field opened the gates of Sheriff 
Hutton Castle to Richard of Gloucester's captives 
— the children of his brothers Clarence and 
Edward. Young Warwick passed to the Tower, 
and judicial murder on the scaffold, to ease the 
Tudors' jealousy ; and his cousin Elizabeth passed 
to the palace, and by her marriage with the 
victor united the houses of York and Lancaster, 
and gave support to the base Tudor blood. 



70 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Gladly we pass to that more heroic war, when 
Helmsley Castle belched from cannon and musket 
its deadly hail against Sir Thomas Fairfax and 
his stormers. There fell the gallant soldier, his 
shoulder shot through by musket lead, and it was 
long feared that Parliament would lose one of its 
most daring commanders. 

Scarborough Castle, cresting the precipitous 
cliff by the stormy North Sea, brings us visions 
of Piers Gaveston, as Pembroke receives his 
surrender and hurries him from Yorkshire soil to 
face the headsman with his lifted axe. We see it 
held in close leaguer by the Pilgrims in Henry 
VIII. 's days ; and again when Westmoreland 
invests, and compels Thomas Stafford to 
relinquish the prize so cunningly achieved, and 
pay for his brief fame the price of his forfeited 
head. The Stuart times brought heroic days to 
Scarborough, days of siege and storm, when 
cannon roared, and fierce stormers came on again 
and again, until the dark day dawned when the 
King's flag came fluttering down. In the leaguer, 
Sir John Meldrum received his death wound 
during a furious assault delivered on the 17th 
May, 1645. 

We may not linger over Mulgrave Castle, and 



YORKSHIRE CASTLES. 71 

its legend of the giant Wada and his wife, and of 
the tragic death of King Etheh^ed. Ardulph 
avenged the man whose dignities he aspired to, in 
a furious battle with the conspirators, and Wada 
returned to his fortress, crushed by defeat, to die 
of a terrible disorder. 

Middleham, a seemly stronghold for the Nevilles, 
passed to Richard of Gloucester when Warwick's 
crest went down, to rise no more, amid the surges 
of Barnet. There Gloucester's son Edward was 
born, and there he compelled the Bastard of 
Fauconbridge to lose his head, in 1471, although 
he had received the King's pardon. 

During its long history, Richmond Castle 
never sustained siege or assault. To the security 
of its strong walls Ralph de Glanville bore his 
royal prisoner, William the Lion, plucked from 
the front of the army, during his famous tilting 
match in Alnwick Fields, a.d. 1174. 

Ravensworth Castle is said to be of pre- 
conquest origin. When Henry V. invaded 
France, Henry, Lord Fitzhugh, gathered beneath 
his banner sixty-six men-at-arms and 209 archers, 
and fought gallantly in his master's quarrel. 
Boldly and truly he performed his knightly 
vows, smote Turks and Saracens in the field, 



72 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

dared the perils of Eastern travel to worship at 
Jerusalem, and rested after his labours in 
Jervaux, beside his ancestors. 

Bowes Castle carries us back to the Roman 
occupation, for the castle is supposed to have been 
built by Allan Niger on the ruins of the Roman 
station, w^hen a sound of battle was in the land, 
Cumberland and Westmoreland being in arms with 
Earl Gospatrick. At Bowes, 500 archers were 
posted to maintain the King's authority, bulwarked 
by thick walls that secured them from Saxon axe 
and sword. 

The record grows beyond bound, not admitting 
a glance at that memorable period when each 
Yorkshire fortress held for the King, the towns 
of the west were crushed, the Fairfaxes driven 
out, and disloyal Hull, with raised bridges and 
closed gates, defied Newcastle and his cavaliers, 
and kept open the pathway for Fairfax and his 
parliamentarians. Sir Thomas returned to the 
scene of his old exploits, and raised such a storm 
that Newcastle had to withdraw his blockade 
of Leslie and his Scots. Days of humiliation 
followed. Marston Moor destroyed the King's 
supremacy in the north, and crown and throne 
w^ent surely down from that fatal day. Over all 



YORKSHIRE CASTLES. 73 

Yorkshire cannon boomed, and siege was laid to 
the King's fortresses, until the last of them 
hauled down the royal colours. 

On the 30th of April, 1646, the order was 
issued that the followinof Yorkshire fortresses 
should be rendered untenable : — Knaresborouo^h, 
Pontefract, Sheffield, Cawood, Middleham, Bolton, 
Craike, Helmsley, Wressel, and Skipton : a 
decision not to be wondered at when the cost of 
their reduction is remembered — a cost of weary 
months of siege and storm, with dreadful effusion 
of blood, to make secure the fruit of Marston, 
Naseby, and other glorious but sanguinary fields. 



By Sidney W. Clarke. 

WHATEVER were the failings of our 
Roman conquerors, they had at least 
one, and in those days a great, redeeming 
feature — they were masters of the art of warfare, 
as it was practised in their times. Such being 
the case, they w^ould not be long in possession of 
their new conquest before recognising the 
importance of holding, in the heart of the 
enemy's country, such a naturally strong position 
as the commanding ground in the angle formed 
by the confluence of the rivers Ouse and Foss. 
In the dim and distant past, long before the 
coming of the Roman legions, the place may have 
been the site of a rude stockade, raised by 
woad-stained Britons for the protection of their 
humble village. But this is mere conjecture ; of 
the existence of York in pre-Roman times we 
have no record. It is certain, however, that 
Eboracum, as York w^as anciently named, was a 
post of much importance to the Romans during 



YORK CASTLE. 75 

their occupation of England, and on account of 
its exposure to the attacks of the still unsubdued 
and hostile northern tribes it became a permanent 
military station, and the headquarters of the 
Sixth Legion. Here Emperors were born, lived, 
and died ; and from Eboracum as a centre, the 
Komans commenced in the north of England 
their great work of civilization, the benefits of 
which we reap to this day. There is little 
doubt but that it was Roman skill and 
labour that reared the first castle or fortress at 
York. 

When the Romans were called away to take 
part in the defence of their fatherland, their 
place in Britain was, in the course of time, taken 
by the Saxon and the Dane. It is not until five 
hundred years have elapsed since the departure 
of the Romans that the first authentic mention of 
a castle at York is found. In the year 936 York 
was the centre of a rebellion against the rule of 
Athelstan. We are told that the King, after 
having signally defeated his enemies at Brunan- 
burgh, retaliated upon the rebels by entirely 
destroying their stronghold — the castle at York. 
It is not known when or by whom this castle was 
built, but it has been supposed that it was erected 



76 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

by the Saxons or Danes upon the site of the 
Roman fortifications. 

York played a prominent part in the troubles 
that followed the advent on our shores of the 
Norman invader. When William marched 
northwards, in 1068, to complete the conquest of 
England, York submitted at once. To control 
the city, WilHam had recourse to his usual 
expedient, he built a castle on the site of the old 
structure destroyed by Athelstan, and where in 
later years Clifford's Tower was to stand. The 
Conqueror garrisoned his new fortress with five 
hundred picked men-at-arms, under the command 
of Robert Fitz Patrick and other trusty knights. 
If York had at first tamely submitted to William, 
it was not long before the citizens endeavoured to 
throw off his yoke, and in 1069 they rose and 
attacked the castle. William hurried to the 
rescue, defeated the rebels, and for the second 
time gained possession of the place, where in 
eight days he built another castle on what is 
known as the Bail Hill. For a short time York 
was quiet, but it was the calm before the storm. 
On the twenty-first of September, 1069, a 
combined force of English and Danes attacked 
and captured the two castles, the Norman 



YORK CASTLE. 1-1 

o^arrisons, consistinor in all of about three 
thousand men, being almost cut to pieces, only a 
mere remnant escaping to carry news of his loss 
to the Kinof. The first work of the victors was 
to utterly demolish the castles, and this done, the 
Danes sailed away with their plunder, and the 
English dispersed to their homes. William took 
a terrible revenge. He appeared before the city 
and demanded admittance, and on being refused, 
at once commenced to besiege the place. The 
defenders held out for a time, but were at length 
compelled by famine to capitulate. William 
disregarded the terms that had been offered and 
accepted, and slew every man that had opposed 
him, afterwards destroying the city, and 
devastating the entire district between York and 
Durham. How effectually this was done is a 
matter of history — men, women, and children 
died of hunger ; not a house was left standing ; 
and for nine years following the spirit of 
desolation brooded o'er the broad acres of the once 
fertile Yorkshire. When he had completed his 
fiendish work, William returned to w^hat remained 
of York for Christmas, rebuilt the castles, and 
then turned his back for ever on the county he 
had ruined, 



78 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

For the next scene in the eventful history of 
the Castle we must look to the reio^n of Richard 
the Lion-Hearted, when there took place one 
of those fanatical and bloodthirsty outbreaks 
of the popular hatred of the Jew^s that so often 
disgraced the Christianity of the Middle Ages. 
For a vivid account of this barbarous event Sir 
Walter Scott's " Ivanhoe " should be referred to, it 
will be sufficient to here give a mere outline of 
the painful episode. The example was set by the 
men of London, who celebrated the coronation of 
Richard by a rising against the Jews. Other 
towns followed ttie lead of the metropolis. 
At York the mob waited for a favourable 
opportunity to show their zealous bigotry. 
During the commotion caused by a fire in the 
city, the house of one of the leading Israelites 
was attacked, the inmates massacred, and the 
premises plundered. The Jews, in alarm, sought 
the protection of the Castle, which was afforded 
them by the governor. They quickh^ removed 
their families and their valuables to this harbour 
of refuge, where they might have remained in 
safety until the storm blew over, but for their own 
timid fears and foolish conduct. 

The governor one day had occasion to leave 



YORK CASTLE. 79 

the Castle for a short time, and *' when he would 
have returned," says an old account, "he was 
prevented by the Jews, who feared lest in this 
time he miofht have made some ao^reement with 
their enemies to deliver them up." This fatal 
lack of confidence enraged the Governor, and he 
obtained from the High Sheriff permission 
to besieofe the Castle. '' Now was shown the 
zeal of the Christian populace ; for an innum- 
erable company of armed men, as well from the 
city as country, rose at once and begirt the 
fortress round." The rabble was led and 
encouraged in its thirst for blood by several 
monks and priests, one of whom, at least, was 
deservedly punished w^hen he was struck by a 
stone thrown from the battlements, and killed. 
The wretched Hebrews offered to purchase their 
lives at a heavy ransom, but to no avail. Then, 
in their peril, one of their teachers urged them to 
die for their faith, but by their own hands, rather 
than to trust to the tender mercies of the 
Christian wolves who were crowding round the 
walls. Many determined to follow this terrible 
advice, and having broken up their vessels of gold 
and silver, they set fire to the Castle, and then 
'' whilst their companions who had chosen life 



80 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

looked sullenly on, each man prepared for the 
slaughter. Being told by their Elder that those 
who bore the steadiest minds should first cut the 
throats of their wives and children, the celebrated 
Jocenus began the execution by doing that 
barbarous act on his own wife, Anna, and his five 
children. The example was speedily followed by 
the rest of the masters of families ; and 
afterwards the Rabbi cut the throat of Jocenus 
himself, as a point of honour he chose to do him 
above the rest. In short, the whole crew of 
miserable men, who had thus voluntarily given 
themselves up to destruction, slew themselves or 
one another." Next day the terror-stricken 
survivors told their persecutors the terrible tale 
and begged for mercy if they surrendered. The 
besiegers appeared to relent, but no sooner were 
they admitted within the gate, than they fell 
upon and slew every Jew they found. Over 
fifteen hundred Jews fell victims to the hatred of 
their fellow citizens. The Castle suffered greatly 
from the conflagration, but it was speedily rebuilt, 
and the keep, Clifford's Tower, was soon after- 
wards added. 

In succeeding centuries the Castle was allowed 
to fall to ruin, but when the struggle between 



YORK CASTLE. 81 

King and Parliament began, it was repaired and 
strengthened, and furnished with cannons. It 
stood a long siege on behalf of the King, but at 
last passed into the possession of the Parlia- 
mentary armies. The end of York Castle as a 
fortress was near ; on the night of the 23rd of 
April, 1684, a fire broke out in CliiFord's Tower, 
and spreading to the powder magazine, caused a 
violent explosion, the result of which was that 
only the outer walls were left standing. The fire 
was thought to have been the wilful act of the 
occupants, who had removed from the Tower 
shortly before its discovery. Since that night, 
over two hundred years ago, York Castle has 
only existed as a picturesque ruin, and as 
enclosing within its precincts various prisons and 
Courts of Justice. 



a 



Caetles anb Castle Builbere : Bolton Caatle 
an& tbe Scropes. 

ALTHOUGH characterised by the durabihty 
of the material used, and by the excellency 
of the workmanship, the military works of the 
Romans have largely disappeared during the 
mutations of the centuries. What the Roman 
held he defended, and some remains of military 
works are yet to be found within the island. 
Dover shows the flat attenuated Roman brick, 
laid in uniform courses, and the ruins of 
Richborough and Pevensey are of surpassing 
interest. The remains of the great wall of 
Hadrian may also be referred to as an example of 
the stupendous character of Roman work, and 
one which speaks highly for Roman faith, 
thus labouring to protect one of its remotest 
colonies from the irruption of barbarian foes. 

The British forts or castles were simply round 
or square erections, crowning the summits of lofty 
eminences that commanded the surrounding 
country. The hills were cut in terraces, and 



CASTLES AND CASTLE BUILDERS. 83 

girdled by a wall of stones, sometimes loose, 
sometimes cemented. For examples, the ram- 
parted hill of Sarum may be referred to, 
and the Catter-thuns of Angus as described by 
Pennant. 

The Romans not infrequently utilised the sites 
of ancient British defences, and the later comers, 
Saxons, Danes, and Normans, during the 
centuries of convulsion before the Plantagenets 
were established, frequently built their fortresses 
over the old Roman foundations. The Saxon is 
supposed to have built rudely, making use of 
wood chiefly, and summoning the serf to attend 
with his axe. Some writers give the keep of 
Coningsborough as a fine example of Saxon 
work, but it has also been referred to the Norman 
Earls of Warren. The comparative ease with 
which the Conqueror subjugated the North, after 
the Danes w^ere bought off, and York starved 
into submission, justifies the opinion of Ordericus 
that the lack of castles was one reason why the 
revolts of the English were so easily put down. A 
very short time sufficed to alter that, as the 
Anglo-Norman monarchs found to their cost. 

Certainly the Normans were great castle 
builders,. and Yorkshire soil affords us abundant 



84 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

examples of their work. Without defensive 
works they could scarcely have maintained 
themselves north of the Humber, as witness the 
massacre of Copsi, by the first Norman Earl of 
Northumbria, who, a.d. 1068, entered Durham 
in triumph with 1200 mail-clad Normans, 
shedding the blood of Saxon burghers in the 
mere wantonness of power, but w^ho fell, with all 
his followino- beneath the veno^eful Saxon axes 
that same night. 

Of the Norman castle the keep was the 
principal feature, and it was defended by a double 
wall, a moat, and a barrier of wooden piles. The 
entrance was strongly defended by a barbican, 
drawbridge, gate, and portcullis. It is scarcely 
necessary to remark that the Norman fortresses 
not infrequently comprised several strong 
towers. 

Stephen of Blois, to secure his throne, gratified 
the barons by according them permission to build 
castles, for it behoved royalty to be exceedingly 
careful in the conferring of this much-valued 
privilege ; and they were trusted subjects who 
received the royal licence to fortify their houses 
or build castles. Stephen was a frank and 
generous man, despite his usurpation, but the 



CASTLES AND CASTLE BUILDERS. ^h 

Conqueror and his sons had experienced so much 
trouble in the besieo^ing of the fortresses of their 
rebelHous barons, that he might have accepted 
the lesson and used greater discretion in 
tlie matter. In the course of his troublous 
reign, 1100 castles are said to have been 
built, doubtless with great oppression of the 
peasantry, for Norman towers were erected with 
heavy labour, to resist the flight of centuries 
and stand the blows of siege and storm. In 
the building of Windsor Castle, Edward III. 
called upon each county for its proportion of 
skilled craftsmen. The building and maintenance 
of a castle imposed the service known as 
Castellorum Operatio, performed by personal ser- 
vice or payment. Castle ward was imposed upon 
those who lived within the boundary protected by 
the castle, and it was not unreasonable to call 
upon them to contribute to the cost of watch and 
ward. 

Thus speaks the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle with 
respect to Stephen's castles. The traitors '' no 
faith kept ; all became forsworn, and broke their 
allegiance, for every rich man built his castles, 
and defended them against him, and they filled 
the land full of castles. They greatly oppressed 



86 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

the wretched people by making thein work at 
these castles, and when the castles were finished 
they filled them with devils and evil men." A 
sad account of the national troubles follows. 
, Stephen's reign was a long chapter of conflicts 
and sieges ; but when Henry II. succeeded to the 
throne, he resumed possession of the grants of 
crown lands made by the late King ; but had to 
do it with an army at his back, for many bold 
barons raised drawbridge, and manned tower and 
wall against his powers. One by one the new 
castles fell, and were levelled with the dust. 
Hugh de Mortimer defended Bridgenorth with 
spirit, and Henry owed his life to the devotion of 
one of his followers, who threw himself before his 
Majesty in time to receive an arrow aimed at the 
King. The devoted vassal died in Henry's arms, 
with his last breath imploring the royal pro- 
tection for his only child, a girl of tender years. 
In due course Henry honourably fulfilled his 
charge. 

The great barons of England were almost 
beyond the reach of law, with their strong castles 
and numerous vassals ; but probably they would 
compare favourably with the mass of European 
nobles in respect to their treatment of those who 



CASTLES AND CASTLE BUILDERS. 87 

were under their control. The ferocious, lawless, 
and overbearing spirit of the Scottish barons is 
abundantly illustrated in the pages of Scottish 
historians. 

The old castles of England are not only 
interesting in themselves as monuments of a long 
departed feudalism, but they are doubly 
interesting in their association with the old 
English families. Take for an example that 
strong mediaeval fortress, Bolton Castle, the seat 
of the Scropes. 

Lord Scrope, High Chancellor of England, 
obtained King Richard's licence to fortify his 
manorial residence at Bolton, in the third year of 
his reign ; and eighteen changeful years swept 
past before the lordly pile was completed at a 
cost of 18,000 marks. Patient oxen drew the 
necessary wood from Engleby Forest, in 
Cumberland, and the masonry of the castle was 
calculated to withstand leaguer and storm, should 
evil days of internecine strife trouble the nation. 

The castle builder was a notable man in his 
day, and had served with the martial Edward in 
his French wars. The castle was worthy of the 
man, although it owed all its strength to art. 
Four towers, connected by a curtain wall, as 



88 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

shown in the accompanying engraving, con- 
stituted the castle. It was further defended by a 
deep moat. It is chiefly remarkable for its 
irregularity ; no two sides of towers or curtains 
being equal ; and this peculiarity exists in the 
large turret that projects between the two towers. 
Indeed there is no pretentions to external beauty, 
but the solidity of the building, and the height of 
the towers, invest it with a gloomy but imposing 
grandeur. Such a fortress might have defended 
a Louis XI. or served as a prison house for 
cardinals and barons, caged behind iron bars, like 
wild beasts. It was indeed, for a few months, 
the prison of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, a.d. 
1568-9 ; and according to tradition, she had 
almost effected her escape, but was overtaken 
and re-captured in the ^'Queen's gap" on 
Leyburn shawl. When Bolingbroke landed at 
Ravenspurne, a.d. 1399, one of the first victims of 
the revolt against the unhappy Richard was 
Scrope's son, the Earl of Wiltshire, who was 
captured in Bristol Castle, with Sir John Bussy 
and Sir Henry Green. Those unfortunate men 
had amassed large fortunes by farming the 
national revenue, and Henry gratified the public 
hatred by the execution of the prisoners. When 



90 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Bolingbroke was established upon the throne, 
Parhament confirmed the attainder of treason 
against Wiltshire, and his aged father pleaded 
with the sorrowful pathos of age for his children, 
that their honour and inheritance might not 
suffer. Henry re-assured the aged father with 
kind and gracious words ; but his lordship 
endured not many more years or sorrows before 
death came to his relief The old man retained 
his affection for King Richard to his life's end, 
and endowed a chantry in his castle of Bolton, 
wherein daily service was performed to secure the 
repose of Richard's soul. 

King Henry's hand fell heavily upon the house 
of Scrope. Another son, Richard, Archbishop 
of York, headed a formidable rising against the 
King's authority, and charged him with treason, 
usurpation, murder, and the withholding of the 
crown from the lineal heir, the Earl of Marche. 
The Yorkshiremen so loyally supported their 
archbishop that the King's army dared not 
risk a conflict. Prince John and the Earl of 
Westmoreland accordingly concluded a treaty 
with the insurgents, but no sooner were they 
disbanded than he arrested Scrope and others. 
The betrayed primate was executed at his palace 



CASTLES AND CASTLE BUILDERS, 91 

of Bishopthorpe, on the 8th of June, 1405. 
Mowbray, Sir Robert Plumpton, Sir John 
Lamplugh, and other unfortunates, shared the 
same fate. The heads of Scrope and Mowbray 
were spiked on York walls. 

The family was not ruined by these mischances, 
and kept well to the front, and one of the Scropes 
is referred to in the Ballad of Flodden Field : — 

'•' And with the lusty knight, Lord Scrope, 
The power of Richmondshire will rise." 

Of the same ancestry were the Scropes of 
Masham and Upsall, of whom Henry, the third 
baron, was implicated in the Earl of Cambridge's 
cruel conspiracy to assassinate Henry V. The 
traitors were executed at the north gate, 
Southampton, at the moment when, with 
favouring winds, the royal fleet sailed from the 
harbour with the army of Agincourt and 
Harfleur. Scrope had been a close friend of 
Henry's, and the indignant King marked his 
wrath against the traitor by allowing him to 
undergo all the butchery that punishes high 
treason. The other conspirators were simply 
beheaded. 

Let us take a last glance at the old castle, 
choosing: for date the 5th November, 1645. It has 



92 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

been long and valiantly defended by Colonels 
Scrope and Chaytor for King Charles, but the 
provisions are exhausted, the horses eaten, and 
famine has conquered. Siege works are silent, grim 
Parliamentarians are drawn up to receive the 
surrender, and the famine-stricken and war-wasted 
handful of loyal gentlemen march out with the 
honours of war, and proceed to Pontefract. 

The Barony of Scrope of Bolton expired with 
Emmanuel, the thirteenth Lord, and Earl of 
Sunderland, a.d. 1630. The last Lord Scrope of 
Masham and Upsall, died a.d. 1517, having three 
sisters, '* among whose descendants and repre- 
sentatives this barony is in abeyance." 



IRamparte, Malle, anO Bars of l^orJ^. 

By W. Cam I DC, e. 

" York, York for my monie, 
Of all the citties that ever I see 
For raerrie pastime, and companie." 

THE ancient and historic City of York 
presents many claims to pre-eminence 
amongst the cities of England. It is certainly 
the oldest city of Britain, flourishing nearly two 
thousand years ago, and is of greater antiquity 
by centuries than the history of the nation. 
Central in position, it is still the capital of the 
largest county, and the most celebrated town of 
the north of Eno^land. It has been the chosen 
residence of Royalty ; in its early days sheltering 
the masters of the world, and in later times it 
has frequently been the temporary home of the 
kings, queens, and royal princes of the nation, 
and a chosen spot for coronations. More than 
once it has been the seat of the imperial courts, 
and the centre of imperial justice, the birth and 
burial place of Emperors ; the dwelling-place of 



94 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

the king's legate, and the centre of the councils of 
the North. It has been the rendezvous of the 
greatest generals, and the largest armies of the 
day, from the Roman legions downwards ; the 
subject of siege, the heart of martial glory, the 
birth-place of armies and of great military forces, 
the meeting-place of gemotes, parliaments, 
councils, and conventions. It has been the abode 
of monks, friars, and nuns of ever}^ order, the 
treasure home of antiquities, the early abode of 
literature and of art, the residence of wealth and 
splendour, the palace of merchant princes, the 
heart of commerce. Its broad deep river navi- 
gable to the sea, on which warships rode and 
innumerable vessels with merchandise floated, 
made it the mart of distant lands, the market- 
place of foreign and English commodities, and the 
manufactory of goods of many kinds. It is the site 
of the grandest cathedral of the nation ; the 
cradle of Christianity, and at one time the 
foundation spot of about forty-five churches, 
seventeen chapels, sixteen hospitals, and nine 
religious houses. It has been the birthplace of 
civil and ecclesiastical dignatories, for all its 
time the residence of an archbishop, dean, 
prebendaries, and archdeacons ; and the temporary 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK, 95 

residence or business-place of the wealthiest 
families of the county, the chief of the Romano- 
British cities, and as far as can be ascertained one 
of the only two cities which bore the title of 
" Municipium," certainly one of the only two 
which had a '^Lord Mayor/' It has given birth to 
the most wonderful superstitions, and the most 
remarkable ghost stories, it is and has been the 
home of freedom, the cradle of the nation's 
greatness, the birthplace of the nation's histories 
and laws, thQ theatre of many meetings in which 
the destiny of the country and the fortune of 
kings were involved, especially of the Plantagenet 
line, staking its all on the Royal family which 
bore its name. 

" The child of Rome, the nurse of Kings ! around thy 
name has grown 

A power of majesty and might, to ancient days unknown ; 

Old Tiber saw tM^orld enslaved, and wreck pronounced 
her p-rffne, 

But to old Ebor her grandsons bring the spread of free- 
dom's fame. 

Rome lived the mistress of the world, to die in shattered 
pride 

York lives in growing nations' hearts, their mother and 
their guide." 

The past history of York not only generates 
feelings of pardonable pride in its sons and 



90 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

daughters, but inspires in the minds of all who 
have any reverence for the things of ancient 
days, the most profound regard and respect, for 
it transcends in brilliant achievements and social 
grandeur all that has been accomplished in other 
and larger cities ; prse-Roman in existence it was 
moulded into a second Rome when this people 
grafted themselves upon it, and the spirit and 
character infused into it by Rome is not yet 
dead. 

Its first effort at defence was probably earth 
mounds thrown up by the Romans f^^ their 
predecessors, certain it is that when the Romans 
settled within its precincts they soon established a 
permanent camp in the city, and when they had 
completed the conquest of the north they built a 
walled station of much smaller dimensions, but of 
similar character to the present w^alls, which 
served all their then needs. This wall building 
probably occurred about a.d. 79, during the second 
campaign of Agricola, although the wall did 
not enclose the whole of the city as the walls did 
in later days. 

In the earliest part of the second century 
(a.d. 109), York became the headquarters of the 
ninth legion, and in little more than twenty years 



RAMPARTS, WALLS. AND BARS OF YORK. 97 

afterwards the military population was increased 
by the addition of the sixth legion (Legio Sexta 
Victrix), whilst stations or castella were established 
in several of the villages adjacent and more 
remote. The fortress or military station was 
established on the north-east side of the river, 
and the walled enclosure measured about 452 
yards in length and 530 yards in breadth, including 
within its area the ground from Bootham Bar to 
Holy Trinity or Christ Church in length, and from 
what is now Monk Bar to the fringe of Coney 
Street in breadth, taking in what is now 
Petergate ; Minster yard, Ogleforth, College 
Street, part of Aldwark ; St. Andrewgate, the 
Bedern, Goodramgate, Girdlergate (Church 
Street), St. Sampson's Square, Feasegate, Jubber- 
gate (Market Street), Davygate, Davyhall (New 
Street), St. Helen's Square, Stonegate, Little 
Stonegate, Swinegate, Grape Lane, Blake Street, 
Duncombe Street, Mint Yard, Museum Street, 
St. Leonard's Place, and other places. This fort- 
ress was dissected by two main roads, one of which 
ran in a straight line from the present Bootham 
Bar in the direction of Walmgate, and the other 
from about the centre of Lord Mayor's Walk to the 

site of the present Mansion House and Guildhall, 

H 



98 BYGONE YORKSHIRE, . 

where a bridge in all probability crossed the Ouse. 
These roads were in direct line with the Roman 
roads to Easingwold (Eisicewalt) and Aldburgh 
(Isurium) to Malton (Derventio), to Brough on 
the Humber (Prsetorium) and to Tadcaster 
(Calcaria), whilst within the walls the Roman 
palace with all its accessories was erected. To 
serve these roads the wall was pierced by four 
openings or gates, one occupying the site of the 
present Bootham Bar, another situate about 
midway on Lord Mayor's Walk, but a little 
nearer to Monk Bar, another was in King's 
Square, and the other in St. Helen's Square. 
They were called the Praetorium, Decuman, and 
lateral gates with towers at each of the four 
corners. 

One of the corner towers is called the 
"Multangular Tower," and being happily 
preserved to this day is representative of Roman 
York. It is now inclosed in the grounds of the 
Yorkshire Philosophical Society, and internally 
its floor is 8 or 9 feet lower than the ground 
outside of it, it is a shell of masonry presenting 
nine faces, and measures 45 feet in its 
diameter outside ; whilst its gorge, which is open, 
is twenty-four feet inside ; like its contiguous 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 95» 

walls (a little of which remains) it is 5 feet in 
thickness. Additions have been made to its 
height since its original erection, but Roman 
work is clearly traceable for 15 feet from its base, 
and is of rubble, faced on both fronts with Ashlar 
blocks of stone, of 4 or 5 inches cube. There 
is also a band of brick in the Roman part 
of the tower, each brick being 17 inches 
long, 11 inches broad, and 2|- inches 
thick, laid in five courses. On the top of 
the purely Roman work an upper story of early 
English work has been erected, which is 3 
feet thick, and 12 feet high, and which is 
composed of larger stones, and pierced by nine 
cruciform loops, each set in a pointed recess. 
Branching from this tower, in a south-easterly 
direction, more than 50 yards of the original 
Roman wall is still preserved, whilst on the other 
side of the tower a small portion of the wall has 
likewise been preserved. There is no rampart 
discoverable about the Tower or the portions of 
the wall still intact, and if they ever existed, 
which is more than probable, the ground about 
them has been levelled up to their crown. 
A ditch in all probability did exist out- 
side the original wall, but that in the 



100 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

lapse of years has disappeared, or rather been 
filled up. 

Another portion of the Roman wall also still 
exists in the garden adjacent to Mr. Edwin 
Gray's residence on the west side of Monk Bar, 
whilst a considerable portion is also laid bare on 
the property belonging Mr. Daniel Lund close to 
the east side of the bar. It was unburied in 1860 
whilst the foundations for Mr. Lund's property 
were being: duof, and is a most interesting: and 
instructive piece of Roman masonry. 

Another short length is untombed further 
east and nearer to, or somewhat behind, St. 
Cuthbert's Church. It is more than likely that 
considerable portions of the original Roman wall 
still remain buried under the ramparts or earth- 
work thrown up after the vacation of the city by 
the Romans. The present walls are generally 
built a little outside of the original Roman walls, 
and their foundations are of a much o^reater 
height, so that in forming the rampart on which 
to erect the mediaeval walls, the old work would 
necessarily be covered up with earthwork, as is 
evidenced by the fact that in the several places 
where the rampart has been removed in recent 
years, the Roman wall has been uncovered and 



M AMP ARTS, WALLS, AND BAMS OF YORK. 101 

exposed to view. The greater part of the Roman 
wall which has been laid bare is faced with 
original Ashlar blocks, and the interior is 
composed of a very solid cement, or mortar, and 
cobbles, which are all but immovably fastened 
together, and remarkably akin to the multangular 
tower. The Monk Bar portion is apparently 
built on the level of the adjacent street, but in 
Roman times that street would be much lower, 
which fact favours, if it does not actually prove, 
the idea of ramparts. A mural Roman tower on 
the line of the walls was discovered some years 
ago, a few yards south of Bootham Bar, the site 
of the old Praetorium Gate, but it was removed 
for street-making purposes. 

After the Romans withdrew from York, it is 
likely that their successors found it necessary for 
the purposes of defence to throw up earthworks 
on the right and left banks of the Ouse, especially 
where no walls existed, and this they did by first 
digging a broad and deep ditch, the earth from 
which was thrown inwards, and formed a ridge or 
bank which varied in height from 15 to 30 
feet, with a proportionate breadth. The bottom 
of this ditch was in most places 40 feet deep, and 
consequently below the summer level of the rivers 



102 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Ouse and Foss, from which it drew its supply of 
water. The ditch was about 50 yards wide, 
and surrounded a space more than three times 
the size of the original Roman area. Beyond the 
Roman wall it is assumed that nothino^ but 
ramparts and ditches existed for some time after 
this people had vacated the city, and the 
earthworks on the south-west side of the Ouse 
were clearly the first to be thrown up ; still the 
work exhibited in these ditches and ramparts 
evidence so much of Roman Castrameltation, 
that there can be little doubt about it being- 
executed by the Britons, immediately after the 
retirement of the Romans ; it was done in all 
probability in the early part of the fifth century 
to keep out strangers when Rome had gone. 
During the eighth century the defences of the 
city were further increased by the upcasting of 
two large mounds of earth, on which fortresses of 
some kind were erected, for in the year 922 
Athelstan is credited with seriously damaging a 
fortress thrown up by the Danes. One of the 
mounds is situate on the north-east bank of the 
river Ouse, and upon it Clifford's Tower was 
afterwards erected ; the other is on the south- 
west bank, and is called Bayle Hill, on which a 



RAMPART.S, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 103 

structure at one time existed. These mounds 
were moated round in the same manner as the 
ramparts, the ditch around Clifford's mound 
being fed by the Foss, and the other by the 
Ouse ; the former is 50 feet high, and 100 
feet in diameter at the top, with a very 
steep slope ; whilst Bayle Hill is of somewhat 
smaller dimensions but of similar character, each 
of them had a lower and larger area or platform, 
extending from the bottom of the mound to the 
edge of the moat, and of horse-shoe shape. In 
the early part of the tenth century the walls were 
added to, or erected on the ramparts, but the 
masonry nmst have been of an unsubstantial 
character, as little or no trace of it is known to 
remain. Amongst the first actions of William 
the Conqueror on his ultimately receiving the 
submission of the citizens, was to order and 
arrange for the erection of a castle on each of the 
mounds to supplant the then existing stockade, 
the construction of which erection he committed 
to WiUiam Malet, Robert Fitz Richard, Gilbert 
of Ghent, and 500 selected knights. Whilst no 
trace of the erection on Bayle Hill now remains, 
the Clifford mound still bears a most interesting 
ruin of bygone days. Originally these mounds 



104 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

were approached by drawbridges, which could be 
worked at the will of the occupants of the towers, 
as the need of defence or isolation arose. The 
Conqueror also set to w^ork to strengthen and 
rebuild the walls, w^hich survive to this day. 
Tw^o towers were also built on the Ouse at the 
w^est end of the defences, called respectively 
Lendal tower, and North Street postern tower, 
from which a strong chain was passed across the 
river Ouse to guard its passage, and to protect 
the w^ar vessels lying in the river above this point. 
Starting at the Lendal Tower to make a 
circuit of the city by way of the walls, we no 
sooner get to the north side of that tower than 
we come upon a wall built on the ridge of a very 
high bank, which runs for 114 yards, when, 
after a short break at the Museum Gates, it 
joins the Roman wall and continues a few 
yards more, where it forms a junction with 
the Roman Multangular tower. Beyond this 
tower the Roman wall is again utilized, and a 
new wall joined to it, which after a stretch of 217 
yards, runs into Bootham Bar, built on the site of 
the Roman prsetorium gate ; the whole of these 
walls w^ere afterw^ards covered by the fortified 
area and walls of St Mary's Abbey, including the 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 105 

two posterns in Marygate, which all stand some 
little distance in the rear of the City walls, and 
outside the old City boundary. From Bootham 
Bar the wall takes a north-easterly direction for 
316 yards, and then turning at right angles in a 
somewhat irregular line, it continues for 340 
yards, when it reaches Monk Bar. From this 
latter bar the wall runs for 262 yards, when it 
again enters an angle, and continues about 130 
yards, turning once more where it formerly 
terminated in a postern which crossed the road, 
which when in existence was called Layerthorpe 
Postern. The river Foss, which in bygone days 
was a deep and broad stream, running out of the 
Forest of Galtress, rendered walls unnecessary 
from this point for a considerable distance. 
Leland says " For two flite shottes the broad and 
depe water of Foss, comming out of the Forest of 
Galtress, defendeth this part of Cyte without 
Waulle." Two arrow flights may be taken as 
432 yards. At the bend of the river a small 
rectangular tower of red brick commences the 
wall again, which continues for 332 yards, when 
it reaches Walmgate Bar, from whence again the 
wall continues for 370 yards, until it reaches 
Fishergate Bar, after which it continues about 



106 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

175 yards, and terminates in Fishergate Postern, 
soon after it has made a turn at riofht anofles, and 
changed its course to the north-west. At this 
postern the Foss was reached again, but in late 
years a considerable foreshore has been made, 
otherwise the river, along with the Clifford Tower 
moat, secured the defence of the City at this 
point. Castlegate Postern, with a short wall of 
70 yards running down to the river Ouse, and 
ending in a water tower, came next. On the 
other side of the stream was Skeldergate Tower 
and Postern, from whence the walls ran about 50 
yards, and then at the skirt of Bayle Hill the 
wall rises somewhat rapidly, leaving the Hill 
inside with its moat or ditch nearly all round it. 
The wall is continued for 243 yards when there is 
another sharp turn westward, from whence it 
continues for 568 yards until it reaches Mickle- 
gate Bar ; this portion of the wall is built rather 
in the rear of the crown of the rampart, and 
shows more of the erection in the front than at 
the back. The wall is resumed at the contrary 
side of the bar, and continues for 152 yards, 
when it makes a turn at right angles, and runs 
towards the river for 527 yards, sinking as it 
reaches the stream, where it ends in a round 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 107 

tower called North Street Postern, into which one 
end of the water chain was received. 

All alonof the walls, but at irregfular intervals, 
there are many buttresses, with a number of 
towers, bastions, bays, turrets, arcades, saliens, etc. 
During their existence the walls have frequently 
needed repairs and restoration, as the result 
chiefly of attacks made upon them, and they 
display work of every age from the eleventh 
century. Formerly these repairs were done at the 
bid of kings and at the city's expense (save once) 
but in recent years they have been restored by 
subscription and otherwise, so that they can now 
be perambulated from end to end with the 
slightest intermission, and they form a pleasant 
and interesting walk, much used by both citizens 
and stranofers. The entire circuit of these old- 
day erections is about two miles and three- 
quarters, and although one or two short lengths 
have been removed for the widening of roads, etc., 
still they are nearly as continuous as ever, and 
are easy of access. Gates are fixed at each 
entrance, which are closed and locked every night 
at dusk, but otherwise they are always accessible. 
Connected with the walls there are four Bars, and 
in days past each of them possessed a Barbican, 



108 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

but the demon of progress has robbed the city of 
all of them, save one. They are very interesting 
structures, and at one time formed part of an 
effective line of defence ; they are each erected 
upon Roman roads, though their claim to be 
Roman workmanship cannot be sustained ; they 
are in all probability of greater age than the 
walls which jut out of them, and they are alike 
somewhat in character, rectangular in plan, of 
two or three stages, and a central passage, yet 
each possessing distinctive features. Bootham 
Bar is 24 feet broad by 21 feet deep ; it has two 
portcullis grooves, and one of the instruments is 
still in existence : it may be seen to advantage in 
the room above the gateway, the oak bars are 4 
inches by 3 inches, framed in squares of 7 inches, 
and there is in it a small wicket-gate. There are 
two chambers or stories above the opening, 
which makes the bar 46 feet high. The outer 
portal is flanked by two buttresses, which rise to 
the upper floor, from which springs two cylindrical 
bartizan turrets. Each turret is pierced by a 
long cruciform loop, with a curtain between them, 
in which are two small square-headed windows, 
three stone warriors adorn the coping, and the 
upper stage is adorned by a tablet within a garter 



RA.\fPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 109 

bearing the Royal arms, sustained on the lower 
stage by shields on either side containing the 
city arms, the whole of which have been recently 
restored, painted, and gilded. Buttresses also 
flank the inner arch, whilst on the first floor are 
two small lanced openings, with more stone 




BOOTHAM BAR. 



warriors on the parapet pilasters, whilst Bartizan 
towers run up the front. The Barbican was 
50 feet long, 27 feet broad, and 25 feet high, with 
two low Bartizans and embrassures having cruci- 
form loops ; it was approached by two shoulder- 
headed doorways from the Bar, but it was pulled 
down about sixty years ago, on making a new 



110 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

street from Bootham into the city. This bar is not 
occupied, as it forms part of the approach to the 
walls running from Bootham to Monk Bar, and 
recently opened to the public. 

Monk Bar is a massive and handsome structure, 
27 feet long, and 35 feet deep, it is 63 feet high 
to the crest of the turrets, and is of three stories. 
There was originally a portculHs in it, but it is 
gone, the winch for lifting it, however, still 
remains, and also the rebates for two gates. A 
new front has been added to the inner face, and 
into this front a shallow recess and platform has 
been introduced ; the roof of the passage has four 
diagonal and two ridge ribs, whilst outsidet here 
are two angles capped from the first floor with 
Bartizans, each of which is pierced by a cruciform 
loop. An outer arch projects slightly, on which is 
built a battlemented screen, bearing the arms of 
France and England, overhung by an helmet and 
canopy, and on each side are the City arms, with 
canopy all recently painted, gilded, and repaired. 
The top of the outside of the Bar is surmounted 
by six life-sized figures in the act of throwing 
down stones, the approach to the rooms is by 
stairs in the north pier, which serve also as an 
approach to the walls to Bootham Bar, The 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. Ill 

chambers, which are occupied by a police 
constable, are vaulted, but the Barbican, which 
was 42 feet long by 27 broad, along with a guard- 
room on the south-east side, have been removed 
to make a better approach to the City — the place 
of the doorway to the guard-house is still 
discernable ; the Barbican had a sally-port on the 
north-west side. 

Walmgate Bar is the only Bar of the four 
which retains its Barbican. Thirty-five years ago 
a great effort was made to remove it, so as to 
improve the road to and from the cattle-market 
which surrounds it, but happily the effort failed. 
The Bar is 24 feet broad and 21 feet deep; its 
passage is roundheaded, and the cover of the 
passage is constructed of timber ; the remnant of 
the portcullis is shown by an oak bar and the 
iron teeth. The inside of the Bar is a modern 
addition, and stands on two massive wood pillars. 
There is also a wood railing running round the 
top, at the front, which is also evidently of recent 
date ; at the back there are two angles, which 
are capped from the first floor, and crowned with 
circular Bartizans, the arms of Henry V., 
recently repaired, painted, and gilded, adorn the 
front^ and the City arms the outer entrance of the 



112 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Barbican. The Barbican is 56 feet deep, and 24 
broad, and the walls are all parapeted, and contain 
two small circular Bartizans, it also bears the City 
arms, but they are a modern addition. This Bar 
suffered much in the siege of York by Cromwell's 
army, being nearly opposite to part of the 
attacking forces ; it is now tenanted by a police 
constable, and formerly had a cottage built in 
front of it, and another on the south-west side of 
the Barbican, but they have both been removed 
within the last sixty years. 

Micklegate Bar is accounted Roman workman- 
ship, and whilst some things can be urged in favour 
of the theory, the evidence fails to be conclusive ; 
it is 26 feet broad, 35 feet deep, and 53 feet high, 
it has three floors, and at the outside three 
embattled turrets, resting on bold sets off which 
rise considerably above the Bar proper ; they are 
finished by circular Bartizans, and have cruciform 
loops ; a square-headed loop is inserted over the 
outer gate, with another above it, flanked by two 
of a cruciform character. The coping is capped 
by three full-length figures, whilst the outer front 
is adorned by three shields, one bearing the arms 
of England and France, and two bearing the City 
arms, with canopy's helmet and lion's head ; the 



RAMPARTS, WALLS, AND BARS OF YORK. 113 

inside also bears a shield with Queen Elizabeth's 
arms upon it. They have all been recently 
renovated and beautified by the Corporation. 
The barbican has long since been removed, but 
when in existence it was 48 feet deep, and 27 feet 
broad, flanking bartizans adorned its high pointed 
entrance gate. Micklegate Bar, in olden times 
called Tower Gateway, has especially a record as 
the spot where rebels' heads were posted after 
beheading, as 

"When York did overlook the town of York." 
The inner ramparts have been greatly 
encroached upon in past days, and considerable 
portions have been filched from their proper 
owners. The walls have in modern days been 
pierced immediately adjacent to, and on both 
sides of the Bars, for footpaths and carriageways ; 
and openings have also been made in Nunnery 
Lane for foot and vehicular traffic, and in Thief 
Lane for the admission of trains into the old 
railway station, also in two places below the old 
station for the passage of traffic and passengers 
to the new station ; and at North Street Postern 
and Fishergate Postern, for foot and vehicular 
traffic. An opening was made in the 14th century 
from what is now George Street to Fishergate, 



114 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and a portcullis was fitted into the opening, but 

the opening was built up again in the time of 

Henry YII., and remained in that condition until 

1830, when it was again opened for the convenience 

of the newly-erected Cattlemarket. All the 

Posterns have been removed save Fishergate ; 

and short lengths of walls have also been 

demolished at the bottom of Skeldergate, also 

adjacent to Bootham Bar, and at Layerthorpe 

Bridge end, to meet modern improvements and 

convenience — 

"Time's gradual touch 
Has moulder'd into beauty many a tower, 
Which when it frown'd with all its battlements 
Was only terrible." 



^be 3\)anboe Countrij. 

By the Rev. Geo. S. Tyack, b.a. 

IT happens not infrequently that one makes a 
fictitious name, under which it pleases him 
to come before the pubhc in some branch of 
Hterature or art, famihar as a household word, 
the real man being at the same time completely 
unknown. Somewhat similarly a master in the 
maofic of romance will now and ao^ain throw over 
a district a spell, under which the real human 
interests that wax and wane there throughout the 
centuries are hidden by the forms with which his 
fancy has peopled it. Such a spell Sir Walter Scott, 
the true '' wizard of the north," threw over part 
of Yorkshire, when he chose the neighbourhood 
of Rotherham for the chief scenes of '' Ivanhoe." 
To many among us the names of the vicinity 
recall far other pictures than those which their 
bustling nineteenth century industry actually 
presents. We see wide woods stretching away 
from Rotherham to Doncaster on the one hand 
and to Sheffield on the other, amid which, at 



116 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

distant intervals, the towers of Norman keeps or 
the walls of Franklins' farmsteads glint through 
the trees or overtop them, while knights and 
monks, Jews and jugglers, palmers, outlaws, serfs, 
and all the motley crowd to which the pen, 
wonderful as a magic wand, has given life, supply 
animation to the scene. 

But Rotherham has no need to dress herself in 
fictions to become interesting, history's sober robe 
is not less attractive, if less romantic. In 1643, 
for instance, one move of the great game then 
playing out between the King and his "■ faithful 
Commons" was made at that town, when the 
Earl of Newcastle, at the head of the royalist 
troops, besieged and stormed it ; and afterwards, 
when the Commons cried checkmate, and the 
game was over, the King, defeated and deceived, 
passed through Rotherham a prisoner in the 
hands of the Scots. Almost a hundred years 
earlier (Jan. 31, 1569) another royal captive, 
whose story still glows with romantic interest 
after the lapse of three centuries, spent a night at 
Rotherham in her progress from one prison to 
another, — Mary, the ill-fated Queen of Scots. 
The old town, too, has had noble sons to render 
her memory famous, foremost amongst whom are 



THE IVANHOE COUNTRY. 117 

two great churchmen of bygone days. Thomas 
de Kotherham, was born there in 1423, and 
became successively Secretary of State, Keeper 
of the Privy Seal, and Bishop of Rochester (in 
1468) ; in the same year he went as Ambassador 
to France, and in the following one was elected 
Chancellor of Cambridge University, an honour 
thrice more conferred on him between then and 
1483 ; in 1471 he was translated to the See of 
Lincoln, and finally became, in 1480, Archbishop of 
York. Two monuments of his bounty he be- 
queathed to his native town ; he founded the 
College of Jesus, endowing it largely with lands 
and chattels, all of which were confiscated at the 
spoliation of chantries and colleges under Edward 
VI., and to his taste and munificence we owe the 
grand old parish church, ''one of the finest 
[)erpendicular churches in the north." ^ 

Had he, too, one wonders, a hand in the 
erection of the little Chapel of Our Ladye, towards 
the rearing of which, then '* to be built on Roth- 
erham Bridge," John Bokyng, master of the 
Grammar School, left 3s. 4d. by will in the year 
1483 ? It is not unworthy of the reputation he 
has earned by his greater works in stone, simple 

*Rickinan't5 "Gothic Architecture." 



lib BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

indeed in design and details, yet " wel wrought," 
as Leland describes it. From chapel to alms- 
house, from alms-house to prison, and found finally 
as a shop — such is the story of the profaning of 
this little sanctuary on the bridge. Has not the 
time come for the " house of prayer " to be 
redeemed from its position as "a house of 
merchandise ? " 

Curiously enough, the other great ecclesiastic 
above referred to as hailing from Rotherham also 
filled the See of Lincoln. The hamlet of Gilfit 
and the town of Sheffield contend with 
Rotherham for the honour of Robert Sanderson's 
birth in 1587, but his biographer, quaint Izaak 
Walton, gives the palm to the last, and 
unquestionably he was educated at the Grammar 
School there. He entered Lincoln College, 
Oxford, in 1603, became a prebendary of Lincoln 
Cathedral in 1629, Regius Professor of Divinity 
at Oxford in 1642, and at the restoration in 1660 
was consecrated Bishop, the nineteenth in 
succession to the See after his townsman Scott. 
During the Commonwealth he suffered severe 
persecution, which will perhaps in part account 
for his death in 1662, after an episcopate of little 
over two years. His Oxford lectures are still 



120 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

highly esteemed, and the first preface to the 
Prayer Book, written by him as a member of the 
Savoy Conference, bears evidence of his wisdom. 

But in thinking of the Ivanhoe Country our 
minds turn naturally to spots which carry more 
obviously than the busy town the marks of 
antiquity and of romantic story ; and chief among 
these is Conisborough Castle. 

We all recall the scenes of rude magnificence, 
the strange mingling of funeral pomp and noisy 
revelry accompanying the obsequies of Athelstane, 
which were so startlingly interrupted by the 
re-appearance of that easy-going descendant of 
the English Kings. Of all Sir Walter's graphic 
pictures, none is more striking than his word- 
painting of that massive keep with its courtyard 
and moated walls. Later and more careful 
investigation (the great novelist's inspection of 
the place was, he tells us, " no more than a 
transient " one) has shewn, unfortunately for the 
story, that Conisborough Castle was in King 
Bichard's time, and long before, in Norman hands, 
and was probably even of Norman construction. 
Before the Conquest the estate belonged to Earl 
Harold, but it was granted by William to his 
own namesake, the Earl of Warren, who probably 



THE IVAN HOE COUNTRY. 



121 



found there a rude fortress largely formed of 
earthworks reared originally in the earliest 
English, or even in British times. By him and 
his successors the site was utilized for the 




THE KEEP, CONISBOKOUGH CASTLE. 



gradual formation of a castle more in accord wdth 
Norman habits and the requirements of con- 
temporary warfare. The most interesting portion 
of the work remaining is the keep, which before 



122 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

the invention of gunpowder must have been 
absolutely impregnable, and the erection of which 
is ascribed by competent authorities to Hameline 
Plantagenet, half-brother of Henry II., and 
husband of Isabel de Warren, trreat o:rand- 
daughter and heiress of the orio^inal o^rantee. 

This keep is built in three storys, with open 
ramparts above and a dungeon beneath, the 
latter not subterranean, but simply a windowless 
cavity in the massive substructure, reached by 
a hole in the floor above. The first story is also 
left in darkness, and is gained by a flight of steep 
steps mounting to the door, 20 feet from the 
ground. The walls of this, probably a store- 
chamber, are 18 feet thick. A staircase winding 
within the walls leads to a second chamber, 
circular, as is the whole tower, and provided with 
a fireplace, and two windows pierced through 
walls 12 feet in thickness. This is the room 
within which takes place the funeral feast de- 
scribed in ** Ivanhoe." The third story, consist- 
ing of a similar chamber, w^as the one occupied by 
Rowena and her maidens as they sat working 
the silken pall, and chanting hymns for the dead. 
Lying off* this is a little chapel, of oblong 
hexagonal plan, formed within one of the but- 



THE IVAN HOE COUNTRY. 123 

tresses, with a little vestry on the left side. 
This is "the small and very rude chapel " in 
which the bier of Athelstane stood while the 
kneeling priests sung their requiems ; but as we 
note its groined roof, the carved capitals, the 
quatrefoil windows, and other architectural feat- 
ures, we take exception to the second adjective ; 
whatever else might be rude within the keep, 
care and skill were unquestionably devoted to 
the decoration of the chapel. Close at hand is 
the little closet (also in the thickness of the 
wall) within which the widowed Edith is de- 
scribed as keeping vigil for the soul's rest of her 
son.^ 

Other sites there are within the district which 
mark it as the Ivanhoe Country ; there is 
Brinxworth Priory ; and Thorp Salvin, near 
which, it is suggested, stood Torquilstone ; and 
Tinsley, probably Templestowe. But in this 
brief paper there is no room for conjectural 
matters ; our space barely permits us to enter 
upon the wide field of certainties. 

* Sir Walter seems to place the chapel and Edith's chamber on the 
second sfeory : they form part of the third. 



Iknigbte ^Templars* 

By J. J. Sheahan. 

OF course everybody knows that in the 
middle ages of the Christian Church there 
existed two great and powerful religious military 
Orders, otherwise soldier-monks, but all may 
not be aware of the objects of such extraordinary 
institutions. One of them is known in history as 
the Knights Templars and the other the Knights 
Hospitallers. The Templars is perhaps the most 
remarkable body, as wxll as the most familiar to 
English ears. It was a fighting fraternity from 
the beginning, whereas the other originally 
consisted of a few ordinary monks embodied to 
attend upon sick pilgrims — though in later times 
they blossomed into a regular military order, 
acting with and in many ways not very dissimilar 
to the Templars. At all events the deeds and 
prowess of the combined fraternities in defence of 
the Christian faith in the far East were the 
delight, astonishment, and admiration of 
Christendom for ages. It is a singular fact 



KNiailTS TEMPLARS. 125 

that in both bodies were strangely blended the 
character of the monk with that of the soldier. 

Close upon 300 years after the death of our 
Lord, certain excavations were effected in and 
about Jerusalem at the instance of St. Helena, 
mother of the first Christian Koman Emperor, 
Constantine the Great ; and amongst other 
singular discoveries then made, the sacred tomb 
of the Divine founder of Christianity was laid 
bare. Over and about it Constantine built the 
great Church of the Resurrection, afterwards 
changed to that of the Holy Sepulchre. Ever 
since those remarkable events took place it has 
been considered by Christians, especially in the 
middle ages, a pious act to make a pilgrimage to 
Jerusalem and the various spots hallowed by the 
sacred feet of the Redeemer, and consecrated 
by his presence. As the nations became 
Christianized this spirit increased, so that at 
length it was considered something like a disgrace 
by the ricli and strong to omit this then 
considered necessary act. Consequently the 
powerful, the lordly, and the rich visited Palestine. 
They generally went in bodies — vulgo gangs — for 
protection, or when in small parties, accompanied 
by stout attendants, as the Eastern Dick Turpins 



126 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

were numerous and always on the alert. Many 
rich men who could not travel gave grants of 
land to the Church or to the Templars, in lieu 
thereof. An instance of the latter is to be found, 
as it were, at our '' own door." About half a 
dozen miles from Hull is a small remnant of the 
once splendid and richly-endowed Abbey of 
Melsa, or Meaux, which was founded in 1150, by 
William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, and Lord of 
Holderness — '' who having made a vow to make 
a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre, and being 
in consequence of increasing corpulency unfit to 
perform such a journey, built and endowed this 
monastery in commutation of his vow." 

When Palestine was conquered by the Arabs 
in 637, that fierce people respected the religious 
spirit of the pilgrims ; but in 1065 the Holy City 
and its territory fell into the hands of semi-savages 
— the Turcomans — both the native Christians 
and the pilgrims were fearfully oppressed. 
The citizens were driven from their churches, 
above 3,000 of them were indiscriminately 
massacred. Divine worship was intercepted, and 
the pilgrims were generally plundered and 
frequently murdered. The repeated reports 
of those atrocities produced a deep sensation 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 127 

over the whole of Christendom. The first 
naturally to take alarm was the Byzantine 
raonarchs. In 1073 the Greek Emperor 
approached the Pope on the subject, with many 
expressions of profound reverence and respect ; 
but circumstances interposed. However his 
successor, Pope Urban II., succeeded in thoroughly 
arousing the religious chivalry of the nations, and 
aided in a great measure by the burning zeal of a 
simple monk (Peter the Hermit) who was a native 
of Amiens, in France, and who had made a 
pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and witnessed the 
cruelties perpetrated by the Turks, and then 
travelled through Europe preaching everywhere 
to crowds in the open air — producing the most 
extraordinary enthusiasm by his impassioned 
descriptions. Pope Urban then held a Council 
at Clermont, in France, in 1095, at w^hich the 
first crusade to Palestine was ordered. 

From all parts of Europe thousands and tens 
of thousands flew to arms at the summons of the 
Father of the Faithful — nay, millions, hurried to 
the Holy Land. Men of all ranks, '' the flower 
of European chivalry," journeyed eastward to 
rescue the Sepulchre of Christ from the abomina- 
tion of the heathen ; and in 1099^ the joyful 



128 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

intelligence reached Europe that the Crusaders 
had captured Jerusalem ! But though the foe 
had been driven from the city they did not leave 
Palestine, but took possession of the lofty 
mountains bordering on the sea coast, and main- 
tained themselves in various impregnable castles 
and strongholds, from whence they issued forth 
upon the highroads, cut off the communication 
between «Terusalem and the seaports, and revenged 
themselves by the indiscriminate pillage of all 
travellers. In a word, between those marauders 
and the wild Bedouins, who on their fleet Arab 
horses, made frequent incursions from beyond the 
Jordan, and kept up desultory and irregular 
warfare in the plains, the pilgrims, coming either 
by land or by sea, were alike exposed to hostility, 
to plunder, or to death. 

It was to succour those pious enthusiasts from 
the dangers to which they were exposed that the 
Hospitallers, and subsequently the Templars, were 
called into existence by the religious and military 
fervour of the period. The Knights Hospitallers 
of St. John of Jerusalem were instituted about 
the year 1090 by some Italian merchants, who did 
a lucrative trade with Palestine. These good 
Italians purchased a piece of ground in the 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 129 

Christian part of the city, and built thereon two 
hospitals for pilgrims of either sex. Though the 
monks were not military, but merely male nurses, 
yet to that complexion did they come at last ; 
and that does not seem so very astonishing when 
one learns that they had always, not only to 
attend the sick in hospital, but to contrive to 
protect them from the robbers long before they 
reached the hospital — and that Pope Innocent II. 
published a Bull, dated 1130, calling upon the 
bishops and clergy of the Church Universal to 
give them aid, as they were then retaining at 
their own expense a body of horsemen and foot 
soldiers to defend the pilgrims in going and 
coming from the Holy Places. We read, too, 
that in the year 1168, the character of the 
fraternity " was entirely changed ; " hence it may 
be pretty safely concluded that it was about that 
time the nursing monks became a military 
body — though it must be stated that their duties 
towards the hospitals w^ere not then discontinued. 
The Order of St. John of Jerusalem still exists 
in places ^^ over-sea." The Knights of Malta are 
still to be found at that place, and the present 
existence of the Knights of Rhodes is but more 
or less a questionable matter. Those Knights 

K 



130 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

were Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. The 
Hospitallers had many fine establishments in 
England (including Yorkshire) and possessed 
considerable property there. A large portion 
of the property of the Knights Templars reverted 
to them by grant. 

In 1842 was published an excellent and most 
erudite work — '' The History of the Knights 
Templars, the Temple Church, and the Temple," 
by C. W. Addison, Esq., of the Middle Temple, 
and in it the learned author states " that it is 
acknowledged that the Templars have filled one of 
the most interesting and romantic periods in the 
records of the world, " and that it is " the most 
extraordinary and romantic body known to 
history." The order was founded early in the 
twelfth century by Hugh de Pay ens, and 
eight other noble French Knights, for the 
protection of the Holy Sepulchre, and of the 
pilgrims resorting thither. This holy society in 
arms renounced the world and its pleasures, and 
took the usual religious vows in the Church of 
the Resurrection, in the presence of the Patriarch 
of Jerusalem. Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, 
granted them a place of habitation, they called 
themselves '' Poor Soldiers of Jesus Christ," and 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS, 131 

a little later (in 1118) the King removed them to 
more distinguished quarters, within the sacred 
inclosure of the Temple on Mount Moriah. 
Then the "poor soldiers" became the ''Knight- 
hood of the Temple of Solomon," and in some 
years afterwards they were called Knight 
Templars, or Knights of the Temple. They 
received at the same time the fine Church of the 
Virgin within the precincts of the Temple. The 
fraternity had wisely chosen the before-named — 
Hugh de Payens — " a valient soldier, who had 
fought with credit and renown at the siege of 
Jerusalem " — their superior by the title of '' The 
Master of the Temple ; " and the rule for their 
observance, as given in Mr. Addison's history, 
and sanctioned by the Pope in 1128, was very 
austere and stringent. 

The Templars having received from the King, 
the Patriarch, and Prelates of Jerusalem, as well 
as from the Barons of the Latin Kingfdom, 
various gifts and revenues for their maintenance 
and support, began to entertain more extended 
views as regards their sacred duties ; for instance, 
the just-mentioned Latin Kingdom, consisting of a 
great portion of the Holy Land, then under 
Christian control, received serious attention, as 



132 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

the hostile tribes of Mussehxien, which were 
everywhere surrounding it, were gradually 
recovering from the stupefying terror into which 
they had been plunged by the success of the first 
crusaders, and were now assumins: an aofofressive 
and threatening attitude. Hence the holy 
warriors determined, in addition to the protection 
of pilgrims, to make the defence of the Christian 
Kingdom of Jerusalem, of the Eastern Church, 
and of all the holy places, a part of their particular 
profession. This, on the authority of Mr. 
Addison. The time seemed ripe for such a 
movement. The name and reputation of our 
soldier-monks in the East had speedily spread 
throuofhout the West, and various illustrious 
pilgrims from Europe aspired to become members 
of the far-famed Templar body. The authorities, 
too, in Jerusalem, foresaw the advantages that 
would accrue to the Latin kingdom by the 
increase of the power of those warriors, 
and even Kinor Baldwin II. exerted himself 
to extend the order throughout Christendom, 
so that he might, by means of so politic an 
institution, keep alive the holy enthusiasm 
of the West, and draw a constant succour 
from the bold and warlike races of Europe 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 133 

for the support of his Christian throne and 
kinordom. 

In 1128, the Master of the Temple, Hugh de 
Payens, visited the King of England, Henry I., 
at Normandy, and Mr. Addison tells us (on the 
authority of the '' Saxon Chronicle ") that the 
King received the distinguished Templar " with 
much honour, and gave him much treasure in 
ofold and silver ;" and that afterwards he sent him 
into England, where he was " well received by all 
good men, who gave him treasure ; and in 
Scotland also ; and that they sent in all a great 
sum in gold and silver by him to Jerusalem ; and 
that there went with him and after him so great 
a number of men as never before since the days 
of Pope Urban." Hoveden, another historian, 
confirms this statement. Grants of land, etc., 
were made at the same time to Payens and his 
brethren, some of which w^ere afterwards con- 
firmed by King Stephen on his accession to the 
throne in 1135. 

Before his departure from England, Payens 
established in London, without Holborn Bars, 
the first house of the order in Britain. Over it 
he placed a Prior, who received the power of 
admitting members into the community : and as 



134 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

houses of the Temple increased in number in 
England, sub-priors came to be appointed, and 
the superior of the Order here was then called the 
Grand Prior, and afterwards the Master of the 
Temple, id. est, the London Temple. 

After having laid in Europe other foundations 
of the great monastic and military institution, 
which was destined shortly to spread its ramifica- 
tions to the remotest quarters of Christendom, 
Payens returned to Palestine, accompanied by 
a valiant band of newly-elected Templars, drawn 
principally from France and England ; but, in 
1136, shortly after his arrival, the clever Master 
died, and his successor, though a skilful and 
valiant general, was unable to sustain the tottering 
empire of the Latin Christians. And so the brave 
Templars were soon worsted with overpowering 
numbers in several battles, and many of their 
fortresses were captured. The important 
principality of Edessa fell into the hands of the 
enemy, and after much slaughter the Latin 
Kinofdom was almost shaken to its foundations. 
The Prior of France, who now became Master, 
convened a general Chapter of the Order at Paris, 
which was attended by Pope Eugenius III., 
Louis VII., King of France, and many prelates, 



KSIGHTS TEMPLARS. 135 

princes, and nobles from all parts of Christendom. 
The second crusade was there arranged. St. 
Bernard was commissioned to preach it, and with 
the sanction of the Sovereign Pontiff, the Templars 
assumed the blood-red cross — the symbol of 
martyrdom — as the distinguished badge of the 
order. From this they were afterwards called 
the Red Cross Knights, and sometimes Red 
Friars. At this famous assembly various dona- 
tions were made to enable the Templars to 
provide the sinews of war more effectually — one 
was the grant of an estate in Hertfordshire, made 
by Bernard Baliol, and shorty before this date 
the Dukes of Brittany and Lorraine and the 
Counts of Brabant and Fourcalquier had given to 
the order various lands and estates. In fact, 
about this period their possessions and power 
continued to increase in every part of Europe. 

Preparations were now quickly made for the de- 
parture of the crusaders to the Holy Land. The 
Master collected all the brethren of the Western 
provinces ; the French King, as well as Conrad, 
Emperor of Germany, raised powerful armies ; 
and the start was made. Conrad elected to 
proceed a different route ; but in Asia his army 
was attacked by the Turks and cut to pieces. 



136 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

He escaped in a marvellous manner, and reached 
Jerusalem with only a few attendants. The 
others arrived in safety, and soon laid siege 
to the splendid city of Damascus, which was 
defended by the great Noureddin, Sultan of 
Aleppo. The siege was a prolonged one, and 
we know but little of its incidents, except that 
its end w^as disastrous. To be correct, we must 
say that the second crusade was a miserable 
failure, though it is said that their united 
numbers were estimated at 1,200,000 fighting 
men. King Louis and the remnant of his army 
returned to France. 

The English nobility were well represented in 
this sad failure. Among them were the two 
renowned warriors Roger de Mowbray and William 
de Warrenne. The former was one of the most 
powerful and warlike of the Barons of England. 
On this occasion he fought under the banner of 
the Temple, and in admiration of their piety and 
valour he gave the holy warriors of the order, 
on his return to England, many valuable estates 
and possessions, several of which were in 
Yorkshire. " These donations," Mr. Addison 
informs us, "were truly magnificent." And about 
the same period King Stephen of England and 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 137 

Matilda, his wife, " granted and confirmed to God 
and the Blessed Virgin Mary and to the Brethren 
of the Knights of the Temple of Solomon, at 
Jerusalem, four manors, two churches, two mills, 
some common pastures, etc., etc." In 1152, 
Ralf de Hastings and William de Hastings gave 
them lands at Hurst and Wykham, in Yorkshire, 
which were afterwards formed into the Preceptory 
of Temple Hurst, near Selby. William Asheby 
granted to them the estate whereon the house 
and church of Temple Bruere were afterwards 
erected. In a word, the order at this period 
rapidly increased in power and wealth in England, 
and in all parts of Europe. All this proves that 
the failure of the crusade did not lessen in public 
estimation the Order of the Templars. 

The w^ar continued to be carried on briskly by 
Templars, Hospitallers, and the forces of 
the King of Jerusalem. The enemy invaded the 
territory of Antioch, and threw their garrisons 
into several strong places. The Prince of Antioch 
and all his nobility were slain in battle, and 
Noureddin sent the head and right hand of the 
Prince to the Cailiff of Bagdad. The banner 
of the enemy waved for a time on the summit 
of the Mount of Olives, but in a nio^ht attack 



138 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

they were defeated with terrible slaughter, and 
pursued all the way to the Jordan. Alone and 
unaided the Templars attempted to take by 
storm the important city of Ascalon, but they 
were surrounded and overpowered by the Infidels, 
and slain to a man. The Christians were now 
fighting generally at great disadvantage as regards 
numbers. They were mostly overwhelmed by 
the number of the enemy. Mr. Addison says 
that volumes might be written on the number of 
fierce engagements and the valour of both 
Christians and Pagans, and that the extra- 
ordinary feats of slaughter and capture recorded 
of them are almost numberless. To gfive one or 
two instances. In June, 1156, the Templars, 
drawn into an ambuscade whilst marching near 
Tiberius, 300 of them were slain on the field, 
and eighty -seven taken by the enemy, among 
the prisoners was the Master of the Temple, and 
his brother, the Marshal of the Kingdom. 
Shortly afterwards thirty Templars put to flight, 
slaughtered, or captured 200 Infidels ; and in a 
night attack on the camp of Noureddin, they 
compelled that famous chieftain to fly without 
arms and half naked from the field of battle. 
Writing of the. valour and military enthusiasm of 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS, 139 

the Templars, Cardinal de Vitzry, Bishop of 
Acre, says, " When summoned to arms they 
never demanded the number of the enemy, but 
where are they?" And he continues ''Lions 
they are in war, gentle lambs in the convent, 
fierce soldiers in the field, hermits and monks 
in religion. They may be frequently read of as 
being always foremost in the field, and the last to 
retreat/' 

Here we introduce a new and most remarkable 
character, to whom has been accorded the credit 
of having given the death blow^ to the Kingdom 
of Jerusalem and the power of the crusaders. 
This famous personage was a young Kurdish 
chieftain who had made himself Sultan of Egypt, 
and who aspired to the presidency of the 
Mahomedan world, and w^hose name was Salah- 
Eddin, shortened to Salladin. He, commanding 
an army of 40,000 horse and foot, invaded 
Palestine in 1187, and commenced ravaging the 
southern borders. He then besieged the City of 
Gaza, but the warlike monks suddenly and 
unexpectedly threw open the gates, made a sally 
on the enemy's camp, and performed such 
prodigies of valour that the infidel leader aban- 
doned the siege and retired into Egypt. In 



110 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

1175, Xeureddin died, and Saladdin became 
Sovereign of Egypt and Syria, and very soon 
levied an immense army, and again planted the 
standard of Mahomet upon the sacred territory 
of Palestine. Great and numerous deeds of 
valour quickly followed, which want of space 
denies us the pleasure of recounting or even of 
glancing at. Sufficient to say that the Templars, 
Hospitallers, and other Christian forces fought 
defiantly and valiantly for a long time, but in the 
end they were defeated with immense slaughter. 
A great battle had been fought at Ascalon, much 
of Palestine was destroyed by fire and the sword, 
many of the houses of the Templars were 
pillaged and burnt, several of their castles were 
taken by assault, and the Latin kingdom was in a 
deplorable condition. In this sad state of affairs, 
Saladdin, then distracted by the intrigues of the 
Turcoman chieftains of Syria, agreed to a truce 
for four years, in consideration of the payment by 
the Christians of a large sum of money. In this 
interval a grand council was held at Jerusalem, at 
which it was determined that Heraclius, the 
Patriarch, and the Masters of the Temple and the 
Hospital should proceed to Europe to endeavour 
to obtain succour from the western Princes, but 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 141 

more especially from Henry II. King of England. 
At Verona, during the journey, the Master of 
the Temple fell sick and died, and the others 
landed in safety in England early in 1185. The 
English monarch received them kindly at 
Reading, and promised to bring the whole matter 
before his Parliament. The Patriarch and his 
companion then proceed to London, where the 
former consecrated the original — the circular 
portion — of the new Temple Church near the 
present Fleet Street. He also consecrated the 
Church of the Knights Hospitallers at Clerken- 
well. Parliament assembled the next month in 
the Monastery of the Hospitallers at Clerkenwell, 
but the barons objected to a pilgrimage of the 
King to Palestine, in consequence of his old age, 
but they, however, offered to raise the sum of 
50,000 marks in furtherance of the cause of the 
Templars. This reply caused great consternation 
amongst the Eastern Christians. 

Meanwhile Saladdin had been vigorously 
preparing for the renewal of the war, as in May 
1187, it re-commenced. A bloody battle was 
fought near the brook Kishon, but a great 
conflict near Tiberius a little later, was terribly 
decisive. After the conquest of nearly forty 



142 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

cities and castles, many of which belonged to the 
military orders, Saladdin laid siege to Jerusalem, 
which lasted fourteen days. The once formidable 
number of warriors of the Temple had been 
reduced to " two miserable knio^hts with a few 
serving brethren." The surrender took place on 
October 2nd, 1187, and the profanation of the 
Temple that followed was aw^ful. 

After the fall of the Holy City the war was 
continued in various parts of the country. 
Several strong places resisted the Mahometans, 
and during 1188, the two fraternities of Knights 
of the Cross played important parts against some 
extraordinary exertions of Saladdin. A third 
crusade had been preached in Europe with 
considerable effect, and the King of England sent 
a large sum of money for the defence of Tyre. 
In the spring of 1189, the Grand Master of the 
Temple, with a large force of his brethren and 
retainers, laid siege to the famous Citadel of 
Acre, and Saladdin quickly hastened to its relief 
A fierce and bloody conflict — the first of nine 
pitched battles — took place, with various fortune, 
near to Mount Carmel, and it is computed that 
during the first year of the siege 100,000 
Christians were slain. During its second year, 



KNIGHTS TEMPLARS. 143 

the royal fleets of Richard Coeur de Lion of 
England and Philip Augustus of France floated 
in triumph in the noted bay of Acre. Six 
weeks after the arrival of those fleets this great 
stronghold was surrendered to the Christian 
leaders. The English monarch now resolved to 
re-take Jerusalem, when the march to Jafla 
formed a continuous conflict of eleven days. '* On 
the great plain round Jafla and Ramleh took 
place one of the greatest battles of the age. On 
all sides (writes an eye-witness) as far as the e^^^e 
could reach from the sea-shore to the mountains 
nought was to be seen but a forest of spears, 
above which waved banners and standards 
innumerable." The victory of the Christians was 
mainly owing to the personal prowess of the 
English lion-hearted King. By his valour and 
exertions, too, Gaza, the ancient fortress of the 
Templars, was recovered from the Saracens 
and garrisoned by the soldiers of the Templars. 
Richard now, acting upon the advice of the 
Templars and Hospitallers, abandoned the march 
on Jerusalem. Saladdin then laid siege to Jafla, 
but the town was relieved after many valiant 
exploits were performed. The ratification of a 
treaty then took place, whereby the Christians 



144 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

were to enjoy the privilege of visiting Jerusalem 
as pilgrims, and Tyre, Acre, and Jaffa, with all 
the sea-coast between them were yielded to the 
Christians. King Richard now left Palestine, 
and the Templars then commenced the erection 
of various strong fortresses, the stupendous ruins 
of many of which remain. '' To narrate all the 
exploits of the Templars," writes Mr. Addison, 
'^ would be to write the history of the Latin 
Kingdom of Palestine, which was preserved and 
maintained for the period of ninety-nine years 
after the departure of Pichard Coeur de Lion 
solely by the exertions of the Templars and 
Hospitallers." Gibbon, on this subject, says, 
" The firmest bulwark of Jerusalem was founded 
on this strange association of monastic and 
military life, which fanaticism might suggest, but 
of which policy must approve. The flower of the 
nobility of Europe aspired to wear the cross and 
profess the vows of those respectable orders ; the 
spirit and discipline were immortal, and the 
speedy donations of 28,000 farms and manors 
enabled them to support a regular force of cavalry 
and infantry for the defence of Palestine." 



By George Benson. 

THE ruins of the once famed Benedictine 
Abbey dedicated to the Virgin Mary are 
situated on the north bank of the river Ouse, just 
outside the walls of the picturesque city of York, 
and are under the protection of the Yorkshire Philo- 
sophical Society. When compared with the Abbey 
of Fountains, Rievaulx, or Kirkstall, the remains 
appear small, consisting mainly of the north aisle 
of the nave (as seen in the illustration). They 
form a part of the church erected in the thirteenth 
century, and are a beautiful example of the 
architecture of that period, and well repay careful 
study. Their history may be said to commence 
in 1074, when three monks, named Aldwine, 
Elfwine, and Reinfrid came to the city of York, 
leading an ass laden with manuscripts and vest- 
ments, such as were necessary for divine service 
and the sacraments. They came from the Abbey 
of Evesham, with the intention of visiting the 
old religious houses in Northumbria. The 



146 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

monasteries and many of the churches had been 
laid waste, owing to the incursions of the Vikings 
and petty wars amongst the chiefs in the northern 
province ; a few churches had been rebuilt, but 
a monk was unknown to the inhabitants, as no 
monasteries had been revived. 

The monks entered the city and made their 
way to the official residence of the Lord 
Lieutenant, who received them, and acceded to 
the request they made to be furnished with a 
guide to Monkchester (Newcastle). Subsequently 
they proceeded northwards, and obtained the 
patronage of the Bishop of Durham, took up 
their abode at Jarrow, the home of the Venerable 
Bede, where, having gathered a congregation 
after the Benedictine model, the monks separated 
in order to extend their labours. Aldwin went 
to Durham, Reinfrid to Streaneshalch (Whitby), 
while Elfwine returned to York, and restored the 
monastery originally founded by the conqueror of 
Macbeth, the brave Siward, Earl of Northumbria, 
of whom Shakespeare says : — 

"An older and a better soldier, none that Christendom 
gives out." 

— Macbeth, Act iv., Sc. 3. 

Twenty -four years before the visit of the 



ST. MARY'S ABBEY. 147 

monks to York, Earl Siward had founded a 
church on the north bank of the river, outside 
the city fortifications. The place was known as 
Galmanhoe, for on it stood the gallows, where 
criminals were executed. The church was 
dedicated to St. Olaf of Norway, who, from a 
sea-rover had become a Christian king. In 1055, 
the valiant Siward died, his last request being 
" put on my impenetrable coat of mail, gird on 
my sword, put on my helmet, my shield in my 
left hand, and my battle-axe in my right." His 
injunction was obeyed. On the day appointed 
for the funeral, the corpse, followed by his son 
Waltheof as chief mourner, and a procession of 
warriors, was taken to the church he had founded, 
and there interred. 

During the siege of York by the Normans, the 
city was set on fire, and the monks fled from the 
monastery of St. Olave, six of them taking 
refuge in the Abbey of Crowland. 

In 1087, Alan of Brittany, Earl of Richmond, 
gave the monastery of St. Olave, with four acres 
of land adjoining, to a pupil of Reinfrid of 
Whitby, Stephen by name, who re-founded a 
religious house at Lastingham, but giving offence, 
was driven away by Earl Percy. At York, 



148 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Stephen began to re-found the monastery of St. 
Olave ; the Archbishop, however, disputed the 
right of Earl Alan to give the site, claiming 
the four acres as the property of the church. 
The cause was carried before the king, and the 
dispute arranged. The next Earl of Richmond 
became a generous donor to the monastery, so 
that they were enabled to prepare for the 
necessary buildings. 

William Rufus being on a visit to York, laid 
the first stone of the Abbey Church, dedicating 
it to the Blessed Virgin Mary, and enriching 
it with many grants. The royal example w^as 
followed by private benefactions, Stephen, the 
first abbot, left the monastery in a flourishing 
state when he died in 1112. 

Some of the monks being displeased with the 
laxity of discipline in the monastery in the year 
1132, appealed to the abbot to check the growing 
evil. This reached the ears of the offending 
brethren, w^ho made matters very unpleasant for 
the reformers ; they sought an interview with the 
Archbishop, who resolved to visit the monastery 
and hold an inquiry into the alleged misconduct. 

The Archbishop on the day appointed rode to 
the Abbey Gatehouse, attended by the Dean, 



ST. MARY'S ABBEY. 



149 



Archdeacon, Treasurer, and other dignitaries of 
the Cathedral, along with the Prior of Guis- 
borough and the Master of the adjacent hospital 
of St. Peter. Leaving their horses at the gate- 
way, they walked towards the Chapter House, 




.ST. MARYS ABBEY, YORK. 



and were received by the Abbot, who, however, 
protested against anyone entering but the 
Archbishop and his clerks. The Archbishop 
remonstrated, at which the crowd in the Chapter 
House created an uproar, hooting, screaming, and 



150 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

rushing towards the Archbishop, who then 
placed the Abbey under an interdict. " Stop 
it for a hundred years," one of the monks shouted, 
and then arose the cry of "catch them" and the 
would-be reformers were seized. After a 
struggle, the Archbishop, with his attendants and 
the thirteen reformers, left the Abbey. 

The Archbishop befriended the outcasts, and 
subsequently gave them a plot of ground near his 
manor at Ripon, on which they founded the 
abbey of Fountains, adopting the stricter rule of 
the Cistercians, who had in 1131 planted a colony 
at Rievaulx. 

Simon de Warwick became Abbot of i\vQ 
Monastery of St. Mary in 1259, and placed it in 
greater security from attacks by the citizens, 
between whom and the monks were frequent 
quarrels owing to privileges claimed by the Abbey. 
The brethren had also to fear incursions from the 
Scots when making raids on the city, so in 1266 
the Abbot built the walls and towers surrounding 
the Abbey Close. In 1270, at the rear of the 
Norman Church, he laid the foundations of a new 
choir, which he lived to see completed at the end 
of twenty-two years. The Norman Church was 
taken down and re-built in the beautiful decorated 



ST. MARY'S ABBEY. 151 

style of Gothic architecture. In 1278, the 
Archbishop granted an indulgence to those who 
contributed to the building of the Tower, which is 
supposed to have been surmounted by a spire of 
wood covered with lead. The windows in the 
north aisle of the nave are similar to those 
in the north aisle of the choir of the 
Benedictine Abbey at Selby. Abbot Thomas 
of Mai ton, in 1334, by building a wall 
along the river side, completely walled in the 
abbey precincts. 

The monastery was surrendered on November 
29th 1540 to the King, without any opposition, 
by William Dent, the last abbot, the clear yearly 
income at that time being £1650 Os. 7|^d. There 
were then fifty monks, including the Abbot, 
Prior, and Sub-Prior, and only one novice, with 
probably one hundred and fifty servants. The 
monks received pensions from the king according 
to their rank, the Abbot 400 marks, the Prior 20 
marks, the Sub-Prior and one of the monks who 
had the degree of a Doctor of Divinity received 
£10 each, the remainder had sums varying from 
£6 13s. 4d. to £5. The whole sum granted to 
them amounted to £573. 

The abbot enjoyed the dignity of a mitre, and 



152 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

was summoned to parliament, and lived in a 
corresponding state. Whenever he left the 
monastery he was attended by a numerous 
retinue ; he possessed country seats at Deighton 
and Overton, and had a park at Beningborough 
well stocked with game. He had a house in 
London near St. Paul's Wharfe, where he 
resided while in attendance to parliamentary 
duties. 

The abbey was retained by the crown, the 
monastic buildings were partially destroyed to 
make way for a royal palace. In 1701, the 
monastery furnished stone for the county gaol, 
again in 1705 for the repairs of St. Olave's Church, 
w^hilst in 1717, the Corporation of Beverley were 
permitted to carry away during the space of 
three years what stone they required for the 
repair of the Minster at that town. The 
beautiful church was fast disappearing ; the nave 
north aisle wall was found convenient as a rifle 
butt during shooting practice ; at last a very 
effective mode was found to remove all traces of 
the abbey, by the erection of a lime kiln near the 
remains of the church, into which the beautiful 
sculptured stone was thrown, and converted 
into lime. The abbey close afforded sites for 



ST. MARY'S ABBEY. 153 

shows, circuses, and was a general recreation 
ground. 

In 1822, the Yorkshire Philosophical Society 
was founded ; they took means to acquire the 
abbey close, which they eventually effected, and 
then explored the site. 



J6^lanb Hbbep : 3te Ibietorical Heeociatione. 

By Edward Lamplough. 

IT is the memorable year of the Battle of the 
Standard. Stephen is engaged with his 
barons, for the first note of civil war has been 
sounded, and the Scots have poured over the 
borders. Among those who fly before them are 
twelve Cistercian monks, and Gerald, their 
Abbot. Their hands are hardened by labour ; 
doubtless the odour of blood and ashes clings to 
their feet and raiment. A rude wasfofon, drawn 
by oxen, contains all their little property of 
priestly vestments and a few treasured books. 
For four years they have laboured at Calder, a 
colony from Furness Abbey ; but the rude Scots 
have entered the land, shearing ofl" priestly heads 
by scores, and Gerald has fled before the storm. 
First he led the weary fathers to Furness Abbey, 
but it closed its gates against them ; and now, 
under providential guidance, they enter Thirsk, 
for repose and refreshment, before they continue 
their journey, for they have decided to lay their 



BYLAND ABBEY. 155 

case before the aged Archbishop Thurstan, and 
soUcit the counsel and guidance of his wisdom. 

In Thirsk they met the widowed mother of 
Roger de Mowbray, who extended to them 
kindly succour and patronage. But the times 
were troublous, and young Roger was a minor. 
First they were planted at Hood, near Kilburn ; 
then pasturage at Cambe and other places was 
provided for them. During this unsettled period 
they were deprived of their Abbot by death, 
A.D. 1143. He was succeeded by Roger, and 
By land on the Moor, or Old By land, was 
granted to the little brotherhood. Building was 
not commenced at Old Byland, it being within 
sound of the bells of Riveaux Abbey. Five 
years the patient brethren waited, and then 
migrated to the neighbourhood of Oldstead, 
where they erected a stone church and cloister, 
and received from Roger de Mowbray several 
generous benefactions, including two carucates of 
land and the patronage of the churches of Thirsk, 
Hovingham, and Kirby-Moorside. 

A.D. 1150, the Abbots of Furness and Calder 
preferred a claim of jurisdiction over them, but 
the Abbot of Riveaux, being appointed arbitrator, 
gave his decision in favour of the monks. 



156 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Their probation came to a conclusion in 1177, 
when they were located in a valley beneath the 
Hambleton Hills, near Coxwald, and commenced 
the erection of the fair Abbey of Byland. To 
its peaceful shelter in later years came baron 
Roger, a time and war-worn man, to lay his 
helm aside for ever, and sheathe his Crusader's 
sword. But when the old warrior died, and they 
buried him near his mother, their honoured 
patroness, Gundras, they carved his good 
weapon upon his tomb. In 1819, Marty n 
Stapylton sought out his tomb from the debris of 
the ruined abbey, and re-interred the Crusader's 
dust at Myton. 

The romantic history of Wymond the Saxon 
is closely associated with Byland. He was an 
obscure Saxon, one of the monks of Furness 
Abbey, but attained to some fame as a tran- 
scriber and illuminator of missals and MSS., his 
labours being highly valued by the monasteries. 
It was no weakling that bent to this student's 
task, but a tall, well-knit, handsome man, whose 
heart throbbed with human pride and ambition. 
What dreams of achievement passed through his 
active mind, as he laid on his pigments with deft 
hand, may be guessed from his after-history. 



BYLAND ABBEY. 157 

Olave, King of Man, having bestowed a 
portion of land upon Furness Abbey, Wymond 
was despatched, with certain companions, to 
advance the interests of rehgion in that locahty. 
His abihty, eloquence, and fine person made so 
profound an impression upon the Manxmen, that 
they desired his appointment to the office of 
bishop, and his name, Weymundus or Rey- 
mundus, accordingly heads the list of Bishops of 
Sodor and Man. Fired with an ambition 
common to the age, but utterly inconsistent 
with the Christian character, Wymond laid claim 
to the crown of Scotland, allef^incr himself to 
be son of Angus, Earl of Mora}^ slain in the 
preceding year at the Battle of Strickathrow, 
while prosecuting his claim to the Scottish 
throne, in right of his heirship to Lulach, son 
and successor of Macbeth. 

Unfurling his banner in the name of Malcolm 
Macbeth, Wymond was seconded by the Manx- 
men, and supported by many valiant soldiers 
of fortune. Embarking his forces in large boats, 
he made many piratical descents upon the 
Scottish Isles, and even harried the mainland 
of Scotland with fire and sword. Somerled, 
Lord of the Isles, bestowed upon him the hand 



158 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of his daughter, and the lady bore him several 
children, the eldest of whom he named Donald 
Macbeth. 

King David sent valiant knights and men-at- 
arms against the adventurer, but he eluded all 
attempts to bring him to an engagement, and, 
when the enemy retired, renewed his predatory 
incursions. The northern bishops secured them- 
selves by paying him a tribute, but on one 
occasion one of the fighting bishops met him in 
the field, felled him to the earth by stroke of 
axe, and dispersed his army with great slaughter. 
Wymond, however, escaped with the remnant of 
his army, and soon reappeared with a fresh force 
of Islesmen at his back, and was ultimately 
bought off by the King, who granted him certain 
lands and possessions. 

At length he was seized, deprived of sight and 
virility, and surrendered to King David, who 
held the maimed and blind hero in Roxburofh 
Castle for many years. Afterwards he was sent 
to Byland Abbey to end his days, but he does 
not appear to have repented of his fraud and 
ambition, nor do the brethren appear to have 
reofarded him as a o^reat sinner, for when loofs 
blazed on the hearth, and winter winds howled 




PVLAND ABEEY, 



160 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

wildly outside, the monks were gratified by his 
stories of wild adventure by sea and land, and 
according to William of Newbridge, ^'He was 
wont to boast merrily that he was never over- 
come in battle, save by the faith of a silly 
bishop." " Had they left me but the smallest 
glimmering of light," he would conclude, ^' my 
enemies should have small cause to boast of what 
they did." 

Years passed, and Somerled armed to prefer 
the claims of his grandson, but was defeated by 
Earl Angus and the Lord High Steward, and 
slain. About the same time Donald Macbeth 
was captured and imprisoned. Even more re- 
markable than their career was the lenity 
extended to the pretenders. 

The Battle of By land Abbey was fought 
A.D. 1322. 

After the Earl of Lancaster's defeat at 
Boroughbridge, and execution at Pontefract, the 
Scots ravaged the border with merciless severity 
to increase the difficulties of King Edward, who 
was taxing his great resources to organise 
another expedition against Scotland. 

The English spread over a naked and deserted 
land, with pomp of mailed thousands, gleaming 



BYLAND ABBEY. 161 

with horrent spears, and gay with banners, 
pennons, and armorial bearings. Their march 
was bloodless, one lame bull was the sole spoil 
obtained between the English border and Edin- 
burgh, and justified the blunt sarcasm of the 
veteran Warenne, " By my faith, I never saw 
dearer beef." 

Threatened with famine, the army retired, 
and the famished soldiers sickened by thousands 
when their wants were supplied from the 
magazines. In the course of a few days 16,000 
men perished. The remainder were encamped 
around Byland Abbey, a strong and healthy 
position. 

King Robert folio w^ed hard upon their tracks, 

and on the 14th of October, while King Edward 

was dining in the Abbey, surrounded by his 

captains and nobles, a sudden din of battle 

brought their repast to a termination. The 

Scots were upon them, with Douglas and 

Randolph in the van, attempting to storm the 

chief pass and key of the English position. Sir 

Thomas Ughtred and Sir Ralph Cobham took 

the front, and made an heroic defence, while the 

Earls of Pembroke and Richmond directed the 

operations of the army with equal skill and spirit. 

M 



162 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

While the attention of the English army was 
occupied by the attacking forces of Randolph 
and Douglas, King Robert led a chosen band 
of Highlanders against their rear and flank, 
scaled the clifl" before he was perceived, and by 
a furious charge routed the army. There was 
some furious fighting and sanguinary slaughter 
before the army broke away in wild flight. 
Many English knights surrendered their swords, 
chief of whom was the Earl of Richmond. 
Edward, well mounted, spurred ofi* for York, with 
Walter Stewart and 500 horse hard after him. 
The King won the race, however, and was safely 
housed in York, while Stewart and his bold 
riders hovered about the walls, reluctant to 
depart. A French knight, Sir Henry de Sully, 
fell into King Robert's hands, and his influence 
assisted in bringing about the conclusion of the 
peace, or thirteen years' truce, ratified at 
Berwick, on the 7th of June, 1323. 

The old Abbey flourished until Henry VIII. 
pensioned ofl* the twenty-four monks and their 
abbot at the dissolution in 1540. The revenue 
was £295 5s. 4d. ; and the bells, lead, and 
furniture of the monks, with 516 ounces of plate, 
were sold. The site was bestowed upon Sir 



BYLAND ABBEY. 163 

William Pickering, and afterwards passed to 
the Stapyltons. 

The Abbey is now a ruin ; its arches have fallen, 
its pillars add their fragments to the heaps of 
debris that thickly cover the graves of 
the distinguished dead who received burial 
within its walls. The archaeologist and anti- 
quary may trace its ancient walls, and restore it 
to their inner sight in all its ancient glory, but 
to the careless it is only a mass of useless ruins, 
scarcely more interesting than the cottages that 
have been erected from its fragments. The 
ruined walls that have not yet succumbed to 
decay are suggestive of its old-time beauty, and 
the accompanying engraving shows the west 
front, with its somewhat low and narrow door- 
ways, the central one terminating in a trefoil 
arch, that on the north in a pointed arch, and 
that on the south in a semi-circular arch. Over 
the central doorway rise nine narrow, lance- 
headed arches, three of which form windows. 
They are surmounted by the remains of the 
splendid circular window, capped by clinging ivy, 
and strengthened by buttresses and octagonal shafts ; 
that on the north side having resisted the ravages 
of time, rising complete from base to pinnacle. 



IRobin Iboob in l^orhabire. 

By Charles A. Federer, l.c.p. 

" I love a ballad in print, a'-life ; for then we are sure 
they are true." 

— Winter's Tale. 

PERHAPS no personality, true or fictitious, 
ever took such firm hold of the popular 
imaofination of mediaeval Eno^land as that of 
Robin Hood. As a redresser of the wronofs 
of the people, and champion of the oppressed, 
and endowed with that combination of craft 
and animal courage which ever gains the 
sympathy of the crowd, his name was an house- 
hold word throughout the length and breadth of 
our land. 

Though current tradition points to Nottingham- 
shire as the county of his birth, and though the 
scene of the best known of his exploits has to 
be laid in that county, yet a great part of his 
adventurous life was spent within the borders 
of Yorkshire. Sherwood Forest, the shire-tvood 
in which the boundaries of three shires meet, was, 



ROBIN HOOD IN YORKSHIRE. 165 

by its immense extent, its intricacies, and its 
remoteness from the centres of government, an 
ideal retreat for all those who for one reason 
or another shunned walled cities and beaten 
highways. From its southern margin in 
Nottinghamshire, Robin and his merry men 
could roam unchecked through an uninterrupted 
expanse of greneshaw, on the one side past 
Wakefield and Ripon as far north as Wensleydale 
and Teesdale, and on the other to the Hambleton 
Hills and the Yorkshire sea-coast. 

This is not the place to enter into a dissertation 
on the much vexed question who Robin Hood 
really was : whether a solar myth, as is seriously 
contended by Canon Isaac Taylor ; or an Earl of 
Fitzwaryn, whose well authenticated adventures 
in the reign of King John certainly bear a 
striking resemblance to the gestes of Robin Hood, 
as is argued by Mr. Prideaux ; or a generic term 
representing the remnants of the old British 
people skulking in the woods, and watching 
for opportunities of swooping in true Indian 
fashion on Saxon and Norman wayfarers, as is 
plausibly surmised by Mr. Wheater ; or really 
Earl of Huntingdon, as all the ballads and 
traditions unanimously affirm, and as has been 



166 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

demonstrated with great circumstanciality and 
much plausibiUty by Mr. Stredder in Notes and 
Queries (7th s., vol. iii.) We simply take Robin 
Hood on the faith of our ancient ballads, and 
present him to our readers as he is presented 
to ourselves by the popular traditions, and 
referring more especially to his dedes and gestes 
within the county of broad acres. 

Robin Hood, or, as the name originally stood, 
Rohin-a-Woodj i.e., Wild Robin, was of York- 
shire descent, for 

'' The father of Robin a forester was, 
And he shot with a lusty strong bow, 
Two north country miles and an inch at a shoot, 
As the Pindar of Wakefield doth know," 

and his relationship to the prioress of Kirklees, 
together with various incidents in his career, 
point to the conclusion that his earliest years 
were spent in the neighbourhood of Wakefield. 
It was as a young man, too, that he, with two 
other youths, fell upon the before named Jolly 
Pindar, who administered such sound correction 
to all the three of them. It is also probable that 
the encounter with the lusty shepherd, in which 
both he and little John were signally defeated, 
took place in his earlier years on one of the 



ROBIN HOOD IN YORKSHIRE. 167 

lonely sheep walks of Craven, or North York- 
shire, for we presently find him in Fountain Dale, 
near Ripon : — 

" And coming to fair Fountain Dale, 
No farther would he ride ; 
There was he aware of a curtal fryar. 
Walking by the water side." 

From the description of this redoubtable friar, he 
must have been a lay brother, appointed to the 
post of forest ranger on account of his great 
strength and agility : — 

" The fryar had a harness good, 
And on his head a cap of steel, 
Broad sword and buckler by his side, 
And they became him well. 

" The curtal fryar had kept Fountain Dale 
Seven long years and more ; 
There neither was knight, lord, or earl, 
Could make him yield before." 

Here again Robin is worsted in the single combat 
which takes place after the amusing episode of 
the friar's carrying him over the river Skell, and 
being carried back in his turn astride of Robin, 
whom, to finish up with, he soused in the river. It 
is certainly a curious and significant circumstance 
that in every fair stand up fight which Robin had 
in Yorkshire he was invariably worsted, and 



168 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

owed his escape only to the timely intervention 

of his merry men, and we may fairly infer from it 

that at the time of his residence in Yorkshire he 

had not yet attained the maturity of strength 

which lie subsequently displayed in the midland 

counties. 

We are not concerned to relate Robin Hood's 

well-known exploits in Nottinghamshire, but pass 

on to a later period of his life when circumstances 

compelled him once more to repair to the scenes 

of his early youth. A serious effort was at last 

made by the king's government to put an end to 

the intolerable anarchy which kept so large 

a part of the kingdom without the pale of the law. 

The king's forces converged upon Sherwood 

Forest, and 

" Then said little John, 'tis time to be gone, 
And that to another* place ; 
Then away they went from merry Sherwood, 

And into Yorkshire they did hie ; 
And the king did follow with a hoop and halloo. 
But could not come him nigh." 

At this critical period Robin and the remnant of 
his men made for the moors of north-west York- 
shire, where he was certainly safe from pursuit, 
for the Hambleton Hills were then, as they have 
been almost to our own days, as impenetrable and 



ROBIN HOOD IN YORKSHIEE. 



169 



as unknown a country as the central regions of 
Africa. From these moors, now bleak and bare, 
but of yore covered with dense forests, the wide 
expanse of the North Sea is everywhere in view ; 
a succession of lovely bays soften the rugged out- 
line of the iron-bound coast, and give precarious 




THE PRIOKV LODGE, K1UKLEE.S PARK. 



foothold to picturesque fishing villages. Upon 
one of the largest of these bays, midway between 
Scarborough and Whitby, converge a number of 
dells, each with its own tiny streamlet, entirely 
secluded from the inland part of the county, and 
until recently accessible by sea only. 



170 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Fylingdales is the collective name of this 
romantic district in which Kobin Hood and his 
followers took up their abode for a time, and 
many are the legends which are still current 
respecting their doings in these quarters. One 
of the most interesting is the one which relates 
how Robin turned fisherman and sea-rover : — 

"Now, quoth Robin Hood, I'll to Scarborough go, 
It seems to be a very fine day. 
He took up his inn at a widow woman's house 
Hard by the waters grey." 

The ballad recounts how he proved but a lubberly 
sailor and fisherman, unable to bait his lines, and 
so sick that he exclaims : — 

" woe is me, 

The day that ever I came here ; 
I wish I were in Plumpton Park 
A-chasing of the fallow deer." 

But when a French w^arship comes upon the 

scene, Robin's fighting instincts make him rise 

superior to his circumstances : — 

" Master, tie me to the mast, he said. 
That at the mark I may stand fair, 
And give me my best bow in my hand, 
And never a Frenchman will I spare." 

He dispatches with his arrows one Frenchman 
after another, and then boards the ship in which 



ROBIN HOOD IN YORKSHIRE. 



171 



he finds " twelve thousand pounds of money 
bright," with which he is reported to have 
endowed a seaman's hospital at Scarborough. 

Longing to return to the scenes of his former 
exploits, Kobin attempted to establish himself 
again in the West Riding, where he began again 
to shoot the king's deer, despoil bishops and 




ROBIN HOOD S GRAVJi, 



lords, vex sheriffs, and to generally set the laws 
at defiance. But not long with impunity ; for 
the king sent " a trusty and worthy knight. Sir 
William by name," who, with his archers, fought 
a pitched battle with Robin Hood's men, and 
although the ballad reports the issue as 
undecided : — 



172 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

" . . . , one party they went 
For London with free good will ; 
And Robin Hood he to the Green Wood Trees, 
And there he was taken ill," 

yet it is easy to read between the lines that poor 
Kobin was defeated and seriously wounded. 

" He sent for a monk to let him blood. 

Who took his life away ; 
Now this being done, his archers they run. 

It was not time to stay : 
Some went on board and crossed the seas 

To Flanders, France, and Spain, 
And others to Rome, for fear of their doom." 

According to tradition, the battle took place near 
Wakefield, and Robin took refuge with a cousin, 
who was prioress at Kirklees Nunnery, and who 
is accused of having wilfully allowed him to bleed 
to death. We give an engraving which represents 
the remaining small portion of the nunnery 
within which Robin is stated to have breathed 
his last. At the distance of a ^' bow shot " 
therefrom is Robin Hood's " grave," shown in 
our second enofraving:. It is somewhat unfortunate 
for the authenticity of this burial, that a careful 
examination of the ground has revealed the 
damaging fact that the pediment of the cross 
(which undoubtedly did stand here) rests on the 
solid natural rock, excluding all possibility of 



ROBIN HOOD IN YORKSHIRE. 173 

interment. The epitaph, ''said" to have been 
here, reads as follows : — 

" Here undernead dis laitl stean 
laiz robert earl of huntingtun 
near arcer ver az he sa geud 
an pipl kauld him robin heud 
sik outlawz az he and hiz men 
vil england nivr si agen. 

Obiit 24 kal. dekembris 1247." 

The following epitaph is given in the ballads : — 

*' Robert, Earl of Huntingdon, 
Lies here, his labour being done ; 
No archer like him was so good, 
His wildness called him Robin Hood. 
For thirteen years and somewhat more 
These northern parts he vexed sore : 
Such outlaws as he and his men 
May England never know again." 



^be pilgrimage of (Brace* 

By W. H. Thompson. 

NO monarch ever ascended the Enghsh 
throne with a better replenished ex- 
chequer than Henry the Eighth. Yet, owing to 
luxurious livinof and extravaofance, he, during- 
the first twenty-five years of his reign, managed 
not only to squander all the wealth his thrifty, 
penurious father had left him, but also other 
vast sums of money which he had extorted 
from his people in the shape of so-called 
"benevolences" and forced loans. Further 
revenue had thus still somehow to be raised. 

About this period of financial difficulty arose 
Henry's rupture with Rome, on the question of 
his marriage with Anne Boleyn. The breach 
became irreparable, the king declared himself 
head of the English Church, and whilst remaining 
on most essential points of faith a Roman 
Catholic, still threw his political influence on the 
Continent in with that of the Reformation party. 
And now came a splendid opportunity to the 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 175 

unscrupulous monarch for making unprincipled 
gain. The Church at this time in this country 
was enormously rich. Not only were there 
scattered all over the land, magnificent abbeys 
and religious houses, but the property, landed 
and otherwise, which these possessed, was most 
extensive in every direction. The anti-Reforma- 
tion attitude adopted by the ecclesiastics as a 
body, now gave the avaricious Henry a most 
plausible excuse for plundering them. They 
denied his supremacy, and attacked his conduct ; 
and everywhere opposed his schemes. Little 
wonder the king" rao^ed •; but with his rao^e were 
mingled a cupidity and greed, in which he was 
seconded by the man who henceforward became 
his especial instrument in the work of spoliation. 
That man was Thomas Cromwell. 

In March, 1536, a bill was hurriedly passed 
through Parliament, granting to the king and his 
heirs all monastic establishments, the clear value 
of which did not exceed £200 per annum. By 
this act, it has been calculated, no fewer than 
about 380 religious houses were dissolved, 
and £32,000 revenue was added to the annual 
income of the crown. And as events proved, 
this confiscation was only premonitory of the 



176- BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

great final spoliation of the monasteries and 
abbeys, which was to take place some three or 
four years later. This latter abolition, however, 
lies beyond the scope of our narrative. 

The superiors of the suppressed communities 
were promised small pensions, all monks under 
twenty-four years of age were absolved from their 
vows, and turned adrift into the world ; the rest, 
if they wished it, w^ere distributed amongst the 
larger houses still, in 1536, left standing ; whilst 
the nuns were left to beg or starve, with 
nothing given to them, save to each a common 
gown. 

Henrj^'s conduct in this matter, and his reform- 
ing tendencies in general, gave the greatest possible 
offence to a large section of the people, particularly 
in the northern counties, where for a long period 
after this, the old church retained its hold. The 
discontent naturally was fomented by the crowds 
of monks wandering over the country without 
a home or means of subsistence, who found ready 
listeners to the recital of their wrongs in the vast 
population, which had been accustomed to draw 
alms from the very ecclesiastics who themselves 
were now beggars. Finding their former means 
of lazy support withdrawn, the people became 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 177 

thoroughly disaffected, and it was not long before 
insurrections arose. 

The first rising was in Lincolnshire. It was 
led by Dr. Mackril, the Prior of Barlings, and 
by a man who called himself Captain Cobbler. 
In a very short time the movement assumed 
most alarming proportions. Twenty thousand 
men quickly rose to arms, and so formidable was 
their array that the Duke of Suffolk, whom the 
king sent to suppress the insurrection, thought 
it wiser to temporise with them rather than to 
hazard an encounter. He demanded of the men 
of Lincolnshire what their grievances were, and 
it was in response to this request that they 
presented a list of six articles of complaint to the 
king. Foremost amongst these was the suppres- 
sion of the monasteries, " Whereby," it was 
stated, " the service of God is not only diminished, 
but also the pooralty of your realm be unrelieved, 
and many persons be put from their livings, and 
left at large, which we think is a great hindrance 
to the common weal." 

By entertaining these proposals, and forwarding 
the petitions to court, Suffolk, on the strength of 
fair promises, was able to stem the first fury 

of the insurgents. He not only managed to gain 

N 



178 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

time, but he also succeeded in spreading dissension 
amongst the malcontents, so that when Henry 
replied, he was able to adopt quite a high and 
lofty tone, giving an absolute refusal to all their 
demands. The haughty and threatening character 
of the king's response appears to have stricken 
the Lincolnshire rustics with fear, for by about 
the end of October they had all dispersed, having 
delivered up fifteen of their ringleaders to satisfy 
the royal vengeance. These were afterwards 
executed as traitors, with the barbarities customary 
in that age. 

Before, however, this insurrection had been 
quelled, a far more important one broke out 
north of the Humber. Not less than nearly 
40,000 men, it was calculated, took to arms, and 
in this case several powerful leaders soon came to 
the front. First amongst these was Robert Aske, 
a gentleman of ability and of good family birth. 
The Askes were highly connected, being cousins 
of the Earl of Cumberland, whose eldest son. 
Lord Clifford, had recently married a daughter 
of the Duke of Suffolk, and niece therefore of 
the king. The manner in which Robert became 
implicated in this rebellion was, if we may trust 
his own account, somewhat peculiar. He had 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 179 

been spending a short time with young Sir 
Ralph Ellerker, of Ellerker Hall, near Brant- 
ingham, one of a hunting party then staying 
there. Early in October he left the place with 
the purpose of returning to London, to be ready 
for business after the long vacation, for he was a 
barrister in good practice at Westminster. His 
route lay across the Humber, by the ancient 
Roman ferry, from Brough to Whitton. In 
Lincolnshire, somewhere near Appleby, he en- 
countered a party of the rebels. They demanded 
who he was, and on his replying, compelled him 
to take the popular oath. 

From this statement it would appear he first 
joined the movement rather against his will, or 
under compulsion. Anyhow, once having com- 
mitted himself to the insurgents, he forthwith 
commenced to take energetic measures. It was 
not long before he perceived the hopelessness of 
the Lincolnshire rising ; and now the rebellion 
having begun to spread like wildfire in Yorkshire 
and the counties north of the Humber, he turned 
to organising in this direction. It was he who 
gave a religious character to the northern rising 
by styling it the " Pilgrimage of Grace." Priests 
marched in the van, in the garb of their different 



180 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

orders, carrying crosses and banners, on which 
were emblazoned the figure of Christ on the 
cross, the sacred chahce, and the five wounds 
of the Saviour. 

Amongst other leading spirits besides Robert 
Aske, were Sir Kobert Constable, of Flamborough, 
William Stapleton, of Beverley, John Hallam, of 
Cawkell on the Wolds, and William Wode, Prior 
of Bridlington. 

The first great rendezvous in Yorkshire of 
the insurgent host was Market Weighton 
Common. Here Stapleton, at the head of 
9,000 men, from the surrounding towns and 
villages, and the district of Holderness, joined 
Aske, who from this time w^as the acknowledged 
commander-in-chief 

One of the earliest steps taken was an attempt 
to gain Hull for the cause. In this, however, 
the rebels for some time were unsuccessful, and 
whilst Stapleton was left to lay siege to the 
town, the main body of malcontents crossed the 
Derwent and marched on to York. There the 
citizens almost to a man were in sympathy with 
them, and Aske was allowed to take possession 
without opposition. 

Lord Darcy of Templehurst, subsequently 



182 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

the acknowledged second great leader, up to this 
period had held Pontefract Castle on behalf of the 
king, but it was well known his sympathies were 
with the rising. On the night that York 
surrendered, therefore, he sent a messensrer to 
Aske for a copy of the oath sworn by the 
insurgents, and promising, if the articles thereof 
pleased him, to join the confederacy. He 
continued, however, to formally retain Pontefract 
for the crown, and as it seemed he was halting 
between the two sides, not committino- himself 
thoroughly to either, Aske decided to march on 
that town. He felt he was secure in the north, 
having received news that the people of Durham 
were in arms, and hastening to join him with 
Lord Latimer, Lord Lumley, and the Earl of 
Westmoreland. On the other hand, he had 
tidings that Lord Shrewsbury was being sent 
by the king to reinforce Pontefract, so he reaHsed 
that if the place was to be gained, and Darcy 
won thoroughly over to their side, prompt action 
must be taken. 

The same day as Shrewsbury was to 
have arrived, Pontefract Castle passed into 
the hands of the rebels, Darcy, the Arch- 
bishop of York, and every man, high and 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 183 

low, within the walls taking the common 
oath. 

Hull, too, at length was gained, and there 
similar proceedings took place as at York. 
Stapleton and his army marched through the 
streets of the town, and after a thanksgiving 
service at Holy Trinity Church, the vacant 
dormitories in the suppressed St. Michael's 
Priory, and the Black and White Friaries were 
again peopled with ejected ecclesiastics. After 
seeing Hull strongly garrisoned with men of 
his party, Stapleton left it in the hands of 
Hallam. Then he departed, gathering forces 
en route, and joined Aske at Pontefract. 

At this latter place the army of insurgents 
was re-organised, and divided into three bodies. 
The first, some 5,000 men, was under the leader- 
ship of Sir Thomas Percy, brother of the Earl of 
Northumberland ; the second, a vast division of 
20,000 men from Holderness and the East and 
West Ridings, was under Aske himself and Lord 
Darcy ; whilst the third was a splendid array of 
12,000 knights, esquires, and yeomen, largely 
from the county of Durham, well mounted, and 
in complete armour. 

It is no wonder that Shrewsbury did not 



184 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

venture to fight with such a host. Remembering 
the success of the king's proclamation in Lincohi- 
shire, he decided now to try a similar experiment 
by sending the Lancaster herald with a message 
to be read at Pontefract Market Cross. But, 
although the messenger w^as received, no repent- 
ance followed the reading of his proclamation. 
He only brought back glowing accounts of what 
he had seen and heard of the enemy's strength. 
They were, he said, " a marvellous great number, 
the best harnessed and the best horsed in the 
world, and kept the best order of battle ; that 
10,000 of them had horses worth twenty angels 
sterling apiece." 

On the banks of the river Don the two armies 
met, and there for two days lay watching each 
other. At length, instead of engaging in 
hostilities, commissioners from each host met on 
Doncaster Bridge, midway between the two, and 
it was then arranged that delegates from the 
insurgents should proceed to London, accom- 
panied by the Duke of Norfolk, who, though not 
identified with the Pilgrimage of Grace, yet 
agreed in heart with the rising. Until the 
king's reply w^as received an armistice was 
decided upon, it being understood that in the 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 185 

meantime the musters on both sides should be 
disbanded. 

The delegates who were to lay the grievances 
before the throne were graciously received by the 
kinof, but were eriven no immediate answer. 
They were detained fourteen days, and mean- 
while letters were sent to the different insurgent 
nobles pointing out the dishonour they did them- 
selves by serving under such an one as Aske. The 
services also of a great number of additional 
troops were secured for the crowm. When on 
the 14th of November Henry dismissed the 
people's representatives, it was only w4th '' general 
instructions of comfort," it being stated that 
Norfolk himself would at the end of the month 
return to the north with the sovereign's final 
reply. 

In due course Norfolk returned to the north 
with a number of commissioners to treat with 
the rebel leaders. Between them there was 
much debate and controversy ; but on the 2nd 
of December an ao^reement was arrived at and 
signed by all the parties to the conference, in 
which the king's pardon was directly promised. 
As to the objects of the rising, and the redress in 
the several matters concerning which petition had 



186 BYGONE YORKSHIRE, 

been made, Norfolk appears to have entered into 
vague, indirect engagements with the insurgent 
chiefs, which led them to believe that their entire 
requests had been, or would be, conceded. 

On this understanding, then, they prepared to 
disband. Aske knelt down, and desired to 
relinquish thenceforth the name and office of 
captain of the Pilgrimage, and he and his com- 
panions pulled off their badges and said, '' We 
will wear no badge nor figure henceforth but the 
badge of our sovereign lord." The king's pardon 
was publicly proclaimed in solemn form before 
both hosts, the insurgents being now free to 
depart, each to his own home. Thus came the 
first act of the " Pilgrimage of Grace " to an end. 

Although, however, affairs had apparently 
terminated satisfactorily, it was not long before it 
became evident that Henry was by no means 
disposed, despite whatever Norfolk had promised, 
to grant all that Aske or his followers desired. 
This brave and popular leader even ventured to 
proceed to London to have an interview with the 
king, and though he was led to believe that all 
the promises made, or supposed to be made, at 
Doncaster would be fulfilled, still much of the 
people's petition remained unrealised. Hence, 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 187 

notwithstanding Aske's assurances, there was a 
growing discontent in the East Riding at the 
results of the agreement, and it was not long 
before a new movement arose. 

A great part of the gentlemen engaged in the 
first rising had been w^on back to their allegiance 
to the crown, and a common impression current 
was that the people had been deceived by them. 
The new movement was to be more democratic in 
its organization. It is true the leader who now 
came to the front was a person of some social 
standing — Sir Francis Bygot, of Settington. 
Sir Francis, however, has been described as one 
of those who on great questions stand aloof from 
parties, holding some notion of their own which 
they consider to be the true solution of the 
difficulty, and which they will attempt when 
others have failed. So it appears to have been 
in this case. 

Sir Francis Bygot, after consulting Hallam, 
who was associated with Stapleton at Hull, a few 
monks, and some other equally foolish persons, 
decided on a fresh rebellion. Thus was begun the 
second chapter in the " Pilgrimage of Grace." 

In this new project two of the first steps 
decided upon were the capture of Beverley and 



188 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of Hull. Bygot was to surprise the former, and 
Hallam the latter. Bygot succeeded in getting 
possession of Beverley, but Hallam was by no 
means so successful. Accordinof to his statement 
made subsequently, and now preserved amongst 
the Rolls' House papers, he and twenty followers 
entered Hull on market day, disguised in farmers' 
dress, in couples, to avoid suspicion. Hallam had 
depended upon the assistance of the crowd 
gathered in the market, but he soon found that 
his confidence was misplaced, and that unless he 
could escape before his disguise was discovered 
he would be taken prisoner. Hence he and two 
or three friends rode out of the town until they 
came to a certain windmill on the Beverley Road, 
a short distance from the walls. Then, looking 
back, they saw the gates were being closed ; so, 
with the view of rescuing or standing by their 
companions who might be in peril, they rode back 
again. Arrived at the town gates, Hallam asked 
that his neighbours who were within might be let 
out, when a Mr. Knowles, stepping up to him, 
enquired his name. He said ^' Hallam." Then 
said Mr. Knowles " Thou art he that we seek 
for," and with that he and a Mr. Elland set their 
hands upon the rebel leader's bridle, and bade 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 189 

him turn. A struggle now took place, in wliich 
his companions joined. However, they were 
soon overpowered, taken prisoners, and lodged in 
the town gaol. 

The three great leaders of the first insurrection 
lost no time in disclaiming and condemning 
Bygot's insane rising. Nothing could be more 
vexatious to Aske, Lord Darcy, or Sir Robert 
Constable. It put them into a most unenviable 
position. They did not know how to act or turn. 
They wished, in the first place, to keep on 
friendly terms with the crown, and yet, on the 
other hand, unless they endeavoured to aid the 
insurgents, who were now under a cloud, they 
were aware they would have to forfeit a good 
deal of their influence amongst the people. 

Aske therefore came to Hull, and employed 
mingled entreaty and menace to the royal 
commissioners, with the view of saving Hallam. 
But whilst he compromised himself, he did not 
rescue the late rebel. It was, as Aske himself 
said, '^ Bygot had gone about to destroy all the 
effects of the petition." 

Once more comparative quiet reigned in the 
East Biding, but again a third rebelHon broke 
out in the north, this time in the neighbourhood 



190 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of Kendal. The king, who had now an over- 
powering force at his disposal, through the Duke 
of Norfolk, proclaimed martial law, and so 
thoroughly were his instructions carried out that 
the north country was converted into quite a 
shambles. 

Despite the fact that since the first rising 
Aske, Darcy, and Constable had in their 
behaviour, so far as can be traced, been in no way 
treasonable, but on the contrary the first and last 
named had received the royal thanks for keeping 
the people quiet during Bygot's movement, still 
the three were suddenly arrested in April, 1537, 
and thrown into the Tower. Aske was charged 
with having interfered with the authorities in 
Hull to prevent the execution of Hallam ; Darcy 
with having failed, in the preceding January, to 
furnish Pontefract with stores, although com- 
manded to do so by the king ; Constable with 
having told Bygot in a letter that he had chosen 
the wrong time of the year for his rising, and 
that he ought to have waited until the spring. 
Such were some of the allegations ; probably, 
however, the actual reason for their arrest 
was that they were powerful leaders, and 
dangerous therefore to the royal policy. Any- 



THE PILGRIMAGE OF GRACE. 191 

how, by the force of intimidation, or on the 
strength of evidence, such as that just indicated, 
they were all sentenced to death in May. Darcy 
was executed in London, Aske in York, Con- 
stable at Hull. 

Having by these and some other deaths 
satisfied his royal vengeance, and struck terror 
into the hearts of the rebellious, Henry then 
proclaimed a general pardon, to which he here- 
after adhered. He also went so far as to comply 
with one of the demands of the insurgents, that 
of erecting a court of justice at York for 
decidinof lawsuits in the northern counties. 



Zbc Ibietor^, ZTraMtione, anb Curioue 
Customs of IDorft flDinetcr. 

By George Benson. 

THE Cathedral Church at York owes its 
origin to Eadwine, King of Northumbria, 
who, in the year 625, married Ethelberga, sister 
to the King of Kent. The Queen of Northumbria 
being a Christian, brought her chaplain, Paulinus, 
to York. One of the British churches on the 
Bishop Hill, which had been desecrated by the 
pagan English, was probably restored by 
Ethelberga, who worshipped in it as she had 
formerly done at the church of St. Martin, at 
Canterbury. King Eadwine was not easily 
converted to the Christian faith, so Pope 
Boniface sent him a letter and presents. 
Eventually the king summoned his council before 
the great idol temple at Goodmanham, to discuss 
the new doctrine, when Paulinus succeeded in 
converting the king and council. 

Eadwine, on his return to York, was prepared 
for baptism by Paulinus, and gave orders for the 



YORK MIXSTER. 193 

construction of a church inside the Roman walls 

and within easy distance of the palace. It 

was desirable that the king should become a 

member of the Church as soon as possible, 

therefore the edifice was built of timber and 

hurriedly completed, on the site of a Roman 

temple. It was dedicated to St. Peter, and 

on Easter Day, April 12th, 627, the king and 

many of his courtiers w^ere baptised in it by 

Paulinus. Soon after Eadwine began to erect 

a larger church of stone which was to contain 

the wooden one ; the foundations were laid, 

but before the walls were completed, or the 

pallium received by Paulinus, the king was 

defeated by the pagans Penda and Cadwallon, 

and slain in battle. The victors ravatred 

Northumbria, and Paulinus fled with the queen 

and her children to Kent, taking with them 

the altar furniture, and in the time of Bede 

the golden cross and chalice were still at 

Canterbury. 

Oswald, nephew of Eadwine, in 635, gained 

a victory over the invaders, and firmly established 

himself on the Northumbrian throne. He had 

embraced Christianity from the Celtic Church 

at lona, and sent there for missionaries to 





194 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

re-convert the Northumbrians, who had fallen 
into idolatry. Oswald completed the stone 
church commenced by Eadwine ; portions of two 
walls of this edifice, constructed ^' herring-bone- 
wise," are to be seen in the present crypt. 

Bishop Wilfrid, in 669, found the Minster in a 
dilapidated condition, and restored it. He 
provided the windows with glass ; previously light 
was obtained by transparent linen, or by holes 
pierced through boards. 

Shortly before the Conquest, Ulphus, son of 
Thorold, the lord of a great part of Eastern 
Yorkshire, laid a horn made of an elephant's tusk 
on the altar in the Minster, as a token that he 
gave certain lands to the Cathedral. The tusk is 
twenty-nine inches long, around the mouth is a 
carved band with griffins, a tree, a unicorn, a lion 
devouring a doe, and dogs wearing collars. 

The Minster was burnt by the Normans in 
1068, and re-built by Archbishop Thomas of 
Bayeux. The choir and part of the crypts were 
taken down by Archbishop Boger (1154-1181), 
and re-built on a larger scale ; subsequently the 
transepts of the Norman church were removed, 
and the present ones erected. The nave was 
then taken down, and the existing one erected. 



YORK MINSTER. 195 

with the Chapter House and Presbytery. The 
Choir of Roger was taken down and rebuilt, and 
the edifice was completed and re-consecrated on 
the 3rd of July 1472. 

The Cathedral of York was never occupied by 
monks, although styled the Minster, but from 
early times by a body of secular priests, who 
formed a college in connection with it, thus York 
Minster was both a Collegiate and a Cathedral 
Church. 

Prayers were said in the Minster at set hours 
daily, as appointed by the canons or statutes 
of the college, hence termed canonical hours, 
these were seven in number, known in English 
times as Uhtsang, Primesang, Undersang, 
Middaysang, Noonsang, Even sang, and Night- 
sang, which in the later Medieval times occur as 
Matins, Land, Prime, Tierce, Sext, Nones, and 
Vespers. To provide for the maintenance of 
these services, each canon had an estate 
appointed to him, termed Si prebend, generally a 
rectory of some parochial church, thus a canon 
was also a "prehendary, and was denominated by 
the name of the place appropriated to him. 

There are thirty prebendaries (formerly thirty- 
six) in the Minster, each having a stall in the 



19G BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Choir and Chapter House. The Canons form 
the Chapter and when they meet to discuss an}^ 
question it is called a meeting of the chapter, and 
the place of meeting is termed the Qiaptev 
House. The Dean is elected by the chapter, 
being invested with a gold ring and installed by 
the precentor. The Precentor or Chanter 
installs the Canons and superintends the Choir ; 
the other officers in the chapter are the 
Chancellor, Sub-Dean, Succentor, three arch- 
deacons, four resident canons, these with the 
twenty- four prebendaries or non-resident canons 
form the ruling body of the Minster, and 
are known as '' The Dean and Chapter of 
York." 

Each canon had formerly a Vicar Choral, in 
priest's orders, to attend and officiate for him ; the 
Vicars Choral had their College in Bedern. 
Their number is now reduced to five, who form a 
corporate body. 

The parsons and chantry priests of the Minster 
had a College, known as St. William's College, 
(founded 1460) in Vicar's Lane. 

In the year 1841 the Canons, with the 
exception of the four residentiaries, were 
deprived of their emoluments, and the patronage 




WKrtX I'KONT, VOllK .M1N>-I i;i;. 



198 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of the livings belonging to them, but their other 
privileges were left undisturbed. 

Formerly at the installation of Canons in the 
Chapter House, twelve dozen large currant buns, 
made specially for the purpose, were scattered 
amongst the spectators and scrambled for, 
and a dozen port or sherry were opened and 
drank to the health of the new Canon. This 
custom continued until 1858. Each Canon 
receives a copy of the Holy Scriptures and a roll 
of bread. 

The Archbishops at their installation into the 
Chair of York formerly made their progress to 
the Minster on foot from St. James' Chapel, 
outside Micklegate Bar, a cloth being spread all 
the way. The prelate preceded by torch, censor, 
and cross bearers, was received in state at the 
great western doors of the Minster by the Dean 
and other dignitaries of the Church, in their 
embroidered copes and rich vestments, and followed 
in procession to the High Altar, amidst the 
perfume of incense wafted in clouds by the 
swinging to and fro of the censors. After being 
invested with the pallium and a jewelled mitre he 
was enthroned in the Chair of York. 

After the ceremony, greetings were exchanged 



YORK MINSTER. 199 

with the Lord Mayor and Corporation, who 
made costly presents of gold or silver cups, and 
sometimes a butt of sack to the Archbishop. 

Formerly a great feast followed the enthronis- 
ation, and that of Archbishop Neville, which was 
held at the palace of Cawood, surpassed all 
others. 

On high festivals the Dean had a large retinue 
to escort him to the Minster. It is recorded that 
Dean Higden, on Christmas Day, had fifty 
gentlemen before him in tawny coats garded 
with black velvet, and thirty yeomen behind in 
similar coats garded with saffron. 

Formerly on St. John the Evangelist's Day all 
the city clergy attended the Minster. 

On St. Nicholas' Day the boy bishop was elected, 
on Holy Innocents' Day he attended the Minster 
in State, habited in a cope of tissue, and wearing 
a miniature mitre, and the nine children in his 
train wore miniature copes. At Salisbury 
Cathedral there is a monument to a boy bishop. 

On the Feast of Purification the Dean blessed 
the candles. On Shrove Tuesday the Minster 
was open to all comers, who were allowed to ring 
one of the bells, termed the Pancake Bell, a 
privilege much exercised. 



200 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

On Ash Wednesday the Dean sprinkled the 
ashes and gave the Absolution. Palms were 
blessed by the Dean on Palm Sunday. 

On Maunday Thursday, the Dean and clergy 
washed the feet of the poor, and distributed alms. 
In 1639, King Charles I. kept the festival here, 
when the Bishop of Ely washed the right feet of 
thirty-nine poor aged men in warm water, and 
dried them with a linen cloth — afterwards in the 
south aisle the Bishop of Winchester re-washed 
them in white wine, wiped, and kissed them. 
On the following day (Good Friday), Charles I. 
touched no less than two hundred people in the 
Minster for the King's Evil. As he touched the 
people there was read aloud, " they shall lay 
their hands upon the sick and they shall recover." 
The King put round each of their necks a white 
ribbon, to which was attached an angel of gold. 
From All Saints' Day to Candlemas the choir 
was formerly illuminated by seven large branched 
candle-holders, and a small wax candle was fixed at 
every other stall ; on festival days the four 
dignitaries used to have a branch of seven 
candles placed before each of them on their 
stalls. 

Within the moulded arch of the w^estern central 



YORK MINISTER. 201 

dooi'way is sculptured the story of Adam and 
Eve in the garden of Eden. The central portion 
of the tracery in the large window above forms a 
heart — the Heart of Yorkshire — for the Minster 
is loved by all Yorkshire folk. % 

In the Nave the great processions were 
arranged, and previous to 1736 there were two 
rows of circular stones (similar to Fountains and 
Chichester) forty-four on each side, about two 
feet diameter and that distance apart, whilst in 
the centre there was a row of larger ones. These 
were the allotted positions of the Dean and the 
superiors, whilst the inferiors and singers were 
arranofed on the sides. 

A unique feature in the Nave is the bracket in 
the Triforium forming a dragon's head, which 
originally held in its mouth a cord, by which the 
cover of the font was raised or lowered ; 
opposite on the other side is the effigy of St. 
George. 

From this font, in 1418, Sir Richard le Scrope 
and his associates were excommunicated for 
havino^ entered the Minster armed durino^ service 
in the Choir, and attacking with violence a 
serving-man. They were denounced by the 
Choir with ringing of bells, lighting of candles ; 



202 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

after extinguishing them and throwing them on 
the ground in rebuke, and then Hfting the 
Cross, the offenders were publicly and solemnly 
excommunicated. 

Subsequently Sir Richard submitted, and did 
penance for his rash act. Entering by the great 
west door uncovered and without his belt, and 
bearing aloft his dagger, he passed along the 
nave to the High Altar, and there on bended 
knees he said the Lord's Prayer three times, and 
the angelical salutation, and then offered his 
daofg-er on the altar. 

At the back of the High Altar was a large 
painted and guilded reredos, having a door at 
each side which opened into the Sacristy. 
Above the reredos was a Music Gallery. 

In the Sacristy the portable shrine of St. 
William of York was kept, on the north side was 
a watching-gallery, having a small oriel window 
commanding a view of the north aisle, opposite 
to which was a loop in the wall looking into the 
Sacristy, from this gallery hung offerings of rings, 
girdles, slippers, and models of limbs. 

The reredos was removed in 1726, and the 
altar carried back one bay. 

The gable of the south transept was formerly 



YORK MINSTER. 203 

crowned with '' The Fiddler of York " who outdid 
Nero of old Rome by looking on whilst the 
Minster was twice in flames, namely in 1829 and 
1840. During the restoration of this transept he 
was taken from his lofty position and put in the 
crypt. 

The north transept contains a five-light lancet, 
known as ^' the five sisters," alluded to by Charles 
Dickens in Nicholas Nickleby. The only 
mediaeval brass remaining in the Minster is in this 
transept : it is a fine one, representing Archbishop 
Grenefield in his vestments. 

The choir screen contains statues of the kings 
of England from William I. to Henry VI. 
inclusive. The organ stands upon it ; formerly it 
stood on the north side of the choir. 

The east window is the largest in the kingdom 
retaining its original coloured glazing. 

The octagonal Chapter House is similar to 

that at Southwell, but nearly twice the size. 

All who see it re-echo the Latin couplet painted 

on the left side of the entrance signifying : — 

" As the rose is the chief of flowers 
So is this house of houses." 



H Storv of tbc (5unpow&er plot. 

By the Rev. Geo. S. Tyack, b.a. 

LITTLE thought Edith Fawkes, of York, 
widow, when she suffered herself to be led 
to the altar for the second time by Dionis 
Bay abridge, of the far-reaching consequences of 
so common -place an act. 

Her life had been hitherto as uneventful as 
that of a well-to-do citizen's wdfe ordinarily is ; 
her husband, Edward Fawkes, was an advocate of 
the Consistory Court of the Archbishop, and as 
such, doubtless a man of some mark in the city, 
especially as his father had been Registrar of 
the Exchequer Court at York, and his elder 
brother Thomas was a merchant-stapler of 
affluence in the city. Four children had blessed 
the marriage, and all had been duly received into 
the Holy Church by baptism at the church of St. 
Michael-le-Belfry, for both husband and wife 
were faithful members of the English Church, as 
the lists of communicants in the said parish show. 
One only of the children was a boy, who was 



A STORY OF THE GUNPOWDER PLOT. 205 

christened on the 16th of April, 1570, by the 
name of Guy, and in due time became a pupil 
of Master John Puleyn at the free school in the 
Horse Fair. 

In January, 1579, however, the shadow of 
death fell across the house, and Edith Fawkes 
found herself a widow, with three little ones 
dependent on her (for one had died in infancy) ; 
Guy, the eldest, barely nine years old, Anne, 
Uttle more than six, and Elizabeth not yet four. 
The means for the family's support were pro- 
bably not large, for all the father's real estate — 
lands and houses in Gillygate, and in Clifton, 
both near York — fell to the only son ; and this 
may have made the widow more willing to form a 
second alliance with one of larger fortune. 

For how many years Mrs. Fawkes wore her 
weeds we know not, but there is reason to think 
that before the end of 1584 she had become Mrs. 
Dionis Baynbridge. The busy northern capital 
was left behind, and with it much that formed an 
essential part of the old York life ; and the new 
wife with her children settled down at Scotton, a 
hamlet near Farnham, in the West Riding. The 
little church of St. Michael-le-Belfry, and the 
g.reat grey Minster, beneath whose shadow they 



206 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

had so often passed, the free school under the 
control and patronage of the Dean and Chapter, 
to say nothing of Edward Fawkes' official status, 
these had all combined to form an ecclesiastical 
atmosphere for the family which was now to be 
changed as completely as were their surroundings. 
Dionis Baynbridge was a Roman Catholic, con- 
nected by family ties with other leading families 
professing that faith ; and it would seem that his 
wife conformed to his religion, and allowed her 
children to be brought up in it. 

However one may regret their perversion, and 
deplore its ultimate, though indirect, consequence, 
it must be admitted that no self-seeking can have 
been their motive, for the profession of Koman 
Catholic opinions was not the road to honour or 
to ease. Simply to be a priest of the Romish 
Church was an offence visited with death, to 
receive the ministrations of such was a felony, 
and the mere act of petitioning the sovereign 
against the persecution to which they w^ere 
subjected was met in one instance by a summons 
before the Star Chamber, imprisonment in the 
Fleet Prison, two exposures in the pillory, and a 
fine of one thousand pounds, and all this on the 
person of an aged gentleman, whose whitened 



locks barely availed to save him from losing his 
ears to boot. 

It was, in fact, a time of action and reaction 
and reflex-reaction. The Roman Catholics felt 
bound in concience to question Elizabeth's claim 
to the throne, and did not disguise their 
disappointment when her successor, James, failed 
to adhere to the faith of his mother, Mary, 
Queen of Scots ; the government in turn grew 
suspicious, and treated them with harshness ; this 
provoked mutterings of deeper discontent, which 
led again to greater severity from the ruling 
powers. Such a state of things could scarcely 
terminate otherwise than it did ; on the one side 
the political and religious issues were confused, 
and a policy of justifiable precaution became a 
persecution indiscriminate and intolerable ; on the 
other, the bolder and more reckless spirits began 
to think that any act which would relieve them 
from the sufferings and privations they were 
enduring would be allowable in their extremity. 

When Mrs. Fawkes, now Mrs. Baynbridge, 
removed to Scotton w^ith her little ones, this 
tragic development was yet some twenty years 
ahead, but signs of the coming storm were not 
wanting, and amid the feelings which such a 



208 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

condition of things must necessarily excite, young 
Guy and his sisters grew up. Several Roman 
Catholic families resided at Scotton, and doubtless 
friends and relatives who shared their faith not 
infrequently met there for consolation or counsel 
in the troublous times on which they had fallen. 
Thomas Percy was a neighbour of the 
Baynbridges, and like Dionis took to himself a 
wife from the members of the English Church, 
Martha Wright by name, from Holderness ; but 
so eager was he to advance his own form of faith, 
that he drew not only her into agreement with 
him, but also her brothers John and Christopher, 
in accomplishing which, no doubt, he often had 
them with him at Scotton. No further oiF than 
Ripley lived Sir William Ingilby, another 
co-religionist and relative to the leading Scotton 
families, and there need be little hesitation in 
supposing that at his house sometimes Guy 
w^ould meet the knight's three nephews from 
Worcestershire, Thomas, Robert, and John 
Winter. 

Thus w^e get an idea of the society into which 
Guy Fawkes grew as he drew near to man's 
estate, and we can imagine the burning ambition 
to do some great thing in defence of their religion 



,,iiii,iiiiiii;illiliii:iii!i:rt'!!'5!!^i' I ''■'''' 




// >z r- 



210 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

to which this group of young enthusiasts would 
encourage one another. 

In the year 1591, Guy Fawkes came of age 
and entered upon the possession of his small 
patrimony. He was evidently a restless, eager 
lad, needing wider scope for his energies than 
England then allowed to one of his way of 
thinking, and so we find that his lands are soon 
disposed of, and he is oiF to the wars. In the 
Spanish army, then serving in the Netherlands, 
was abundant opportunity for action, as well as 
companionship with men of his own faith ; 
thitherward, therefore, he bent his steps to bear 
pike or sword as a soldier of fortune. 

Subsequently, as the tension of things at home 
got more severe, he became a kind of ambassador 
from the English Roman Catholics to the Court 
of Spain, the leading Roman Catholic power 
of Europe, in an endeavour to obtain some help 
from that source. In these missions, full of 
difficulty, and not devoid, it must be confessed, of 
a treasonable aspect, two of his old Scotton 
friends took part ; in 1601 he travelled to Madrid 
with Thomas Winter, and in 1603 with 
Christopher Wright. In 1604 he returned to 
England, knowing that something was astir 



A STORY OF THE GUNPOWDER PLOT. 211 

amonofst the Romanists at home, and on his 
arrival first learns, from Catesby and his old 
acquaintances John Wright and Thomas Winter, 
the nature of that fearsome plot which has made 
his name notorious, and into which presently all 
those whom, we have seen, he had probably met 
at Scotton as a lad, were gradually drawn, 
toofether with others. 

Further into the old story of the Gunpowder 
Plot it is needless to go ; we have its origin in 
Yorkshire, its development and discovery belong 
to the general history of our country, and are too 
well known to need repeating. 

Have we touched too lightly and brightly the 
character of Guy Fawkes ? We think not. For 
the awful scheme which he helped to carry out 
no words of horror can be too strong, yet Fawkes 
was no fiend incarnate, but a man of high 
courage and fanatic enthusiasm driven to bay ; 
and what will not such an one dare ? One 
characteristic at least is worthy of remembrance, 
the unselfish courage which gives some gleam of 
heroism to an atrocious deed. In all the dangers 
of the plot Fawkes bore the brunt ; if his name, 
rather than that of his companions, is always 
coupled with the plot, it is not because he 



212 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

originated it, but simply because he undertook 
the part which carried the greatest risk, and led 
to his arrest and execution ; and finally, no 
torture could wring from him the names of any 
accomplices. 

The moral of it all is surely this, that if Gu}^ 
Fawkes and his comrades are to be eternally 
reprobated, their hands cannot be quite clean 
who drove them to the recklessness of despair. 



Zbc Spinning:^v\)beeL 

By I. "VV. Dickinson, b.a. 

IT is no exaggeration, but plain sober fact, to 
say that in every department of human 
activity a greater stride forward has been made in 
the last sixty years than in the sixty preceding 
centuries. A generation is uprising to whom 
such things as the sawpit with its " top sawyer " 
and " bottom sawyer," the windmill and water- 
wheel, the scythe and the sickle will be unknown. 
Xo reading book nowadays informs us that it 
takes nine men to make a pin ; the merry tinkle 
of the nailmakers' anvil is a sound lost to our 
planet ; nor is wool any longer combed by hand. 
The art of spinning has fully shared in this 
advance, and the spinning-wheel is very typical of 
the great change that has swept over all methods 
of industry. 

The spindle and the distaff was the first 
contrivance for converting wool as we see it upon 
the sheep into the continuous thread known as 
yarn for weaving into cloth. The distaff was a 
stick or staff about eighteen inches long, round 



214 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

which was bound a loose bundle of wool which 
had been previously washed. The spindle was a 
pin a few inches in length, with an eye at the 
upper end to which the thread was attached. If 
of wood, the spindle required to be weighted ; 
sometimes it was made of lead. The spinster 
stuck the distaff, with its burden of wool, into her 
girdle, and tied sufficient fibres through the eye of 
the spindle. With a swift dexterous twirl of her 
thumb and forefinger a quick rotary motion was 
imparted to the spindle, which at the same time 
was thrown away from the spinster, and so was 
produced the double movement essential to 
spinning of drawing out the wool and twisting it 
at one and the same time ; this movement was 
effectively furthered by the continuous dragging 
and twirling action of the spinster's thumb and 
forefinger. When a convenient length of thread 
had been thus produced, the spindle was hauled 
in, the thread was wound round it, and the process 
commenced de novo. Such as here described, 
the distaff' and spindle was the symbol of 
womankind from before the dawn of history. As 
such it appears in the hieroglyphics of the earliest 
Egyptian monuments ; it is mentioned by Homer 
and Herodotus ; and the three Parcae or Fates 



THE SPINNING-WHEEL. 215 

spinning the triple thread of human Hfe, and with 
their shears cutting its brief span, form a fine Greek 
myth, the deep pathos of which has been well 
caught in the touching picture by a famous artist. 

When Solomon wishes to set forth the picture of 
the model housewife, among her other accomplish- 
ments we read, " She layeth her hand to the 
spindle, and her hands hold the distaff." So 
thoroughly characteristic of the occupation of 
woman was it that the name spinster still survives 
for every unmarried woman, and in the middle 
ages the spear side and the distaff side were the 
leofal terms for male and female children. 

The crude spindle and distaff lasted many 
centuries without alteration, but an obvious 
improvement was to set the spindle in a frame 
and make it revolve by means of a band set in 
motion by a wheel turned either by hand or foot, 
and so was evolved the spinning-wheel. From 
a MS. in the British Museum, we learn that 
early in the fourteenth century such a wheel was 
in ordinary use : the spinster is represented as 
standing at the wheel, which she turns with her 
right hand, and with her left twirls the spindle. 
In 1530 was brought out a form of spinning- 
wheel at which the spinster could sit to her 



216 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

work ; a further improvement was the addition of 
a treadle to turn the wheel. When two spindles 
were mounted in the frame, and two threads spun 
one by each hand this constituted the ''two- 
handed " spinning-wheel. Either a single-handed 
or two-handed spinning-wheel was to be found in 
every house, and at all odd times was brought 
out to keep up the supply of yarn. We have the 
authority of Mrs. Poyser for stating that in any 
decently ordered household there never lacked 
abundance of feathers and linen. '' It 'ud be a 
poor tale if I hadna feathers and linen when I 
never sell a fowl but what's plucked, and the 
wheels agoing every day o' the week." On the 
same indubitable authority "squinting Kitty" 
was a rare 'un to spin ; and poor Molly shewed 
her gallowsness by wanting to spin in the barn 
with the whittaws, i.e., saddlers. 

Just as the plough-boys had their Plough Mon- 
day, so the maids had their St. Distaffs Day, or 
Rock Day (rock being another name for the dis- 
taff), the seventh of January, whereon the spinning, 
interrupted by the Christmas and New Year 
festivities, was resumed for another year. The 
day was kept as a merry-making, the girls 
pretending to want to spin, and the hinds teasing 



THE SPINNING-WHEEL. 



217 



them bv burn in «• the tlax and hidin<i^ the distaffs, 
the maids retahating by throwing buckets of 
water over them. 

When the loom, by the united labours of genera- 




TIIR sriNNINO-WIlREr., 



tions of weavers, had been improved almost out of 
recognition, the spinning-wheel, which at most 
could only produce two threads, was quite unable 
to keep up anything like an adequate supply of 



218 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

yarn, and several inventors turned their attention 
towards it. One of the best known is 
Hargreaves, the inventor of the " spinning- 
jenny," who hit upon his idea, it is said, by the 
accidental upsetting of his wife's spinning-wheel 
upon the cottage floor, 1764. The wheel con- 
tinued to revolve, and he saw that a large number 
of spindles could be arranged vertically side by 
side in a frame and turned by one common wheel. 
The success of the " spinning-jenny " was consider- 
able, but it was superseded by a better idea, due 
mainly to Arkwright, who patented his spinning- 
frame in 1769, and upon which all machines 
since have been founded. The last improvement 
was the "mule," patented in 1779, which in 
principle goes back to the spindle of the 
Eygptian monuments. By the beginning of the 
century the spinning-wheel was fast disappear- 
ing, and now can only be seen in specimens pre- 
served here and there as interesting relics of the 
past. 

As will be readily understood, the improve- 
ment in spinning is affected by the speed at which 
machines can be driven, and by the number 
of threads that can be simultaneously produced. 
Thus while with the spinning-wheel a skilled 



THE SPINNING-WHEEL. 219 

adult spinster could only produce two threads at 
most, in the mills of Lancashire and Yorkshire 
to-day a youth of eleven has no difficulty in 
attending to a spinning frame with 164 threads, 
producing each day a length of 604 miles of 
thread. The old spinning-frame in very skilful 
hands could produce as fine a yarn as the most 
improved spinning-frames ; thus in 1745, a woman 
of East Dereham spun a single pound of wool 
into a thread eighty-four miles long, and a young 
lady of Norwich spun a pound of wool into 
168,000 yards of yarn, a pound of cotton into 
203,000 ; these performances being slightly in 
excess of what can be done on the latest type of 
spinning-mule. Long after the difficulties of 
spinning by machinery had been overcome, a 
modified form of wheel was to be found in every 
cottage in South Lancashire and West Yorkshire. 
It was not a spinning-wheel, however, though it 
had the appearance of one, inasmuch as it did not 
spin, but merely wound the weft, which was 
already machine spun, upon the reels used for 
weaving. The monotonous whir whir of these 
windincr wheels was a sound familiar enouofh in 
those districts a dozen years ago ; now-a-days the 
winding is all done by machinery. 



220 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

The spinning-wheel Hngerecl on in England into 
our own days. The farmers of forty years ago 
were very proud of their knee-breeches and ribbed 
stockings, and these stockings must be knitted of 
none other than a very thick " home-spun " 
worsted, and with the matter-of-fact veracity of 
the times "homespun" meant "homespun;" so 
every farmer had a spinning-wheel as a regular 
part of his domestic arrangement, and a travelling 
spinster went the rounds of the farm-houses 
annually to spin the year's supply of worsted for 
the good yeoman's hose. 

The latest date to which we have been able to 
trace this dying revolution of the spinning-wheel 
is at Kildwick-in-Craven, about the year 1848. 

In the remoter districts of the Highlands the 
spinning-wheel may now and again be seen, while 
in Norway and Sweden its reign is in full sway ; 
a neatl}^ turned and polished wheel is to be seen 
in every home, and the fair Scanduiavians spin 
with a deftness and perseverance that would have 
delighted the souls of our grandmothers. 



IRipon anb its flDinetcr. 

By George Parker. 

TO the Venerable Bgeda (672-735) in his 
*' Ecclesiastical History," the first mention 
of Anglo-Saxon Hryppun is ascribed, and to 
Christian Missionary enterprise Ripon and its 
Minster owe their beino^. 

The position of Ripon on the bank of a river 
(ripa) obviously suggested its name, and the 
etymon being a Latin word, indicates that it 
originated either with the Romans or the Arch- 
bishops of York. 

It is stated that about the year 630 a.d., 
Wilfrid was born at Ripon, and it is somewhat 
confirmatory of the tradition that no claim for 
the honour of being his birthplace has been 
advanced on behalf of any other locality. 
It is also traditionally said that at the time of 
Wilfrid's birth the house of his parents was so 
brilliantly illumined with supernatural light that 
it was thought to be on fire. This manifestation 
was deemed a prophetic symbol of the splendid 



222 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and useful character of his hfe, which became 
remarkably verified. 

Tradition and history of a reliable character 
concerning the subjects of this paper are admitted 
to commence about the year 660 a.d., when Eata, 
the Abbot, and other monks from Melrose and 
Lindisfarne, among whom was the great St. 
Cuthbert, having obtained a grant of land from 
Alchfrith, then ruler of Deira, founded here a 
College of priests known as the ''Scots' Monas- 
tery," where abode some of the most eminent and 
pious men of that age. It is recorded by the 
Venerable Bseda and other historians that in this 
monastery at Ripon St. Cuthbert the " hostillar," 
or host, received and entertained an angel-guest. 

The institution of Eata's Monastery would 
most probably correspond with those of Lindis- 
farne and lona, founded by St. Columba. The 
building would be principally of timber, but of 
its architecture, extent, and composition there 
are neither records nor vestiofes remaininof. The 
site of the structure is a bow-shot distant north- 
eastward of where the Cathedral now stands. 

At that remote era as "in the living present," 
there were theological disputes and burning 
problems to be solved, among which that of the 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 223 

proper day for celebrating the festival of Easter 
was of prime import, and Yorkshire was the 
arena of this conflict. Shall the day or shall the 
Sunday next following the first full moon after the 
vernal equinox be Easter Day ? This was the con- 
tention. A brief mention here of this controversy 
seems imperative, as the verdict of the inquiry 
determined the permanent association of Wilfrid 
with Ripon and its Minster, and also with the 
northern ecclesiastical province, thereby securing 
for Ripon the kindly interest and munificence of 
the Archbishops all through the ages, yes, to 
this day. 

With a view to obtain unanimity, by the 
King's command a conference was held in the 
convent of St. Hilda, at the place then called 
Streoneshalch, better known now by its Danish 
name — Whitby. At this important synod the 
illustrious Wilfrid makes his appearance in 
history, and at once rises into prominence and 
fame. Being desired by the King, who presided at 
the conference, to state his views on the points at 
issue, Wilfrid addressed the assembly with much 
eloquence, and so ably advocating the Romish 
computation which he had adopted during his 
travels in Italy, and dexterously employing the 



224 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Scripture alluding to St. Peter and the kej^s,^ 
that the King, dreading being at variance with 
the door-keeper of Heaven, decided the disputed 
questions in Wilfrid's favour, consequently Eata 
and his companions either voluntarily retired or 
were dismissed, and their Monastery at Ripon 
was conferred by King Oswy upon St. Wilfrid, 
who thus became the second abbot. A few 
years subsequently, Wilfrid was appointed Bishop 
of Northumbria (Archbishop of York), and in 665 
A.D. was consecrated at Compiegne, in France, by 
Bishop Agilbert, assisted by twelve other foreign 
prelates. At that distant bygone age, the 
hamlet of Ripon consisted of thirty tenements 
appertaining to the Monastery. 

With superior knowledge and tastes acquired 
during his residence in Italy and France, Wilfrid 
quickly commenced the erection of a monaster}^ in 
a much more extensive and ornate style than its 
predecessor. It is believed that Wilfrid's 

monastery was one of the finest examples of 
architecture in England at that period. For its 
erection Wilfrid brought over companies of 
French and Italian specialists in the several 

* '* Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my Church; 
and the gates of Hell shall not prevail against it, and I will give unto 
thee the keys of the kingdom of Heaven." — St. Matthew, xvi., 18-19. 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 225 

branches of architecture, and used prepared and 
enduring materials; divers columns, curious 
arches, fine pavements, and porticos entered 
into its arrangement, and it is said that the 
church was one of the first in this country built 
of stone. 

To-day the only acknowledged representative 
at Ripon of the work of Wilfrid is the Saxon 
Crypt, or " Wilfrid's Needle," situate beneath the 
intersection of the cross of the minster. Its 
preservation must undoubtedly be attributed to 
its subterranean situation. It is constructed of 
large stones roughly hewn and plastered, and 
entered by a trap-door near the south-east angle 
of the nave. 

Wilfrid dedicated his minster in honour 
of St. Peter, and tenanted the conventual 
buildings with a brotherhood of the Order 
of St. Benedict, — the industrious, literary, and 
" gentlemanly order of monks." In the absence 
of evidence to the contrary it is thought that 
the monastery continued until its demolition in 
the possession of that Order. 

On the occasion of the dedication service, 
Wilfrid entertained Egfrid the King of North - 
umbria, his brother Aelwin, and a large retinue 



226 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of courtiers, and displayed great shrewdness by 
specifying the numerous benefactions to his mona- 
stery, and having them confirmed by the king, 
princes, and nobles. 

The account of the dedication of Wilfrid's 
Abbey Church is of especial interest, being 
the earliest on record of the dedication of an 
English church. Among the other precious gifts 
presented by Wilfrid on this occasion was *' a 
wonderful piece of workmanship unheard of 
before his time ; this was a copy of the 
four Gospels written with gilded letters on 
parchment, adorned with purple and other 
colours, the corner of which was inlaid with gold 
and precious stones, the work of jewellers." 

This exceedingly beautiful manuscript copy of 
the four Gospels is still extant. Treasured for 
centuries in the Archives of the Vatican, it is 
said that Pope Leo X. gave this splendid 
Evangelarium to King Henry VIII. on the 
occasion of conferring upon him the title of '' Fidei 
Defensor" (Defender of the Faith). It is further 
stated that Cardinal Wolsey presented the MS. 
to the See of York, of which he was then Arch- 
bishop, and since that time the interesting and 
most valuable volume has had several owners. 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 227 

During the combined episcopate and abbotship 
of Wilfrid, the employment of numerous artisans 
and the erection at Ripon of large and beautiful 
edifices, together with the great fame and 
influence of the Archbishop would doubtless 
attract many residents, and the town would 
rapidly advance in extent and importance. It is 
traditional that Wilfrid built four churches at 
Ripon ; the necessity for these certainly implies 
the presence of a considerable population, and 
although the data are scanty, it is not improbable 
that for many years previous to the advent of the 
Danes, Ripon continued to flourish. 

In hastily traversing a rich and beautiful 
country, it is very probable that some of 
its loveliest features may be passed unnoticed. 
The days of Wilfrid can scarcely be left behind 
without some allusion being made to the times 
of adversity and persecution experienced by 
this high-principled ecclesiastic ; these shadowed 
periods of his life were those of his greatest 
usefulness and spiritual culture, and tended to 
enhance his reputation and permanent fame. 

Unadvisedly interfering in a singular dis- 
agreement between his King and Queen, Wilfrid 
lost the favour and support of his sovereign, was 



228 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

deposed and banished from the See of North- 
umbria, and from his much-loved home at Ripon. 
An exile in search of refuge, and being driven 
from the adjoining kingdom of Mercia, also from 
the kingdom of Wessex, he retired to Sussex ; 
while there, in his zealous efforts to evangelize the 
people, he is accredited with the performance of 
many wonderful deeds, which at that time were 
deemed to be quite miraculous. During a direful 
famine, resulting from a prolonged drought, 
Wilfrid taught the starving and despairing 
multitudes the art of catching fish with nets and 
with lines and hooks, and after the baptism of a 
great number of converts, there immediately 
coming a plentiful rain, it was attributed to the 
influence and piety of the great missionary. 
These and other similar events greatly promoted 
the success of Wilfrid in the conversion of the 
South Saxons, which tended to his restoration to 
royal favour and his former dignity. 

From time immemorial a representation of the 
return of Wilfrid from exile has taken place 
annually at Ripon. A personation of the great 
prelate, mounted on horse-back, attired in grand 
pontifical robes, and carrying a pastoral staff, 
enters the city, accompanied by a band of music 



230 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and a crowd of admirers, and thus passes through 
the principal streets. This custom is observed 
on the Saturday immediately preceding the first 
Monday in August. 

Wilfrid's manifest disparagement of his brother 
Bishops, and his frequent appeals to the Bishop 
of Rome, produced estrangement and disfavour. 
During one of his periodical visits to Italy, and 
protracted absence from his diocese, the Church 
at Ripon was constituted an Episcopal See. 
The contemporaneous Archbishop of Canterbury 
— Theodore, who, like St. Paul, was a native 
of Tarsus, and also like his distinguished fellow- 
townsman, endowed with energy and learning — 
considering that the spiritual needs of the 
people were being neglected, and encouraged 
by the King of Northumbria, consecrated 
Eadhead, or Eadrsedus, the primary Bishop of 
Ripon. Eadhead, who had been King Ecgfrid's 
chaplain, and subsequently the Bishop of 
Sidnacester, or Lindsey, occupied the office a 
few years, circa 680, and retired on the return 
and reinstatement of Wilfrid. There is no 
record of the appointment of an immediate 
successor to Eadhead, and the Bishopric of 
Ripon became re-united to the diocese of York, 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. ' 231 

and so continued until its re-erection in the 
year 1836. 

The death of Wilfrid took place in his 
Monastery of St. Andrew, at Oundle, near 
Northampton, in the year 709. He was in 
the seventy-sixth year of his age ; and, in 
compliance with his own desire, he was buried 
at the north side of the altar in his favourite 
Abbey Church of St. Peter, at Ripon. In the Life 
of St. Wilfrid, written by Eddius, his chaplain, 
the particulars of the last illness and somewhat 
sudden death of his beloved bishop are minutely 
and touchingly recorded. Wilfrid's earnest 
piety and missionary zeal were recognised 
by his canonization, and he may be considered 
as holding the rank of tutelary Saint of Ripon. 
In the Romish calendar, the 12th of October is 
appointed for his festival. 

In 735, the great contemporary of Wilfrid, the 
Venerable Bseda, also *' rested from his labours," 
and either from the want of a kindred mind to 
continue the chronicles, or subsequent records 
having wholly disappeared for many succeeding 
generations, the annals of Ripon and its Minster 
are enshrouded in gloom. It is the more to 
be deplored that this veiled period should have 



232 . BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

occurred at an epoch when rehgion in this 
land was, perhaps more than at any other time, 
deemed of paramount importance ; and when 
Ripon was one of the chief centres from which 
emanated the Hght of the gospel, of education, 
and civilization. 

At one of the earliest destructive onslaughts 
of the Danes, the town was destroyed by fire ; 
there remained but heaps of ashes, testifying of 
what once had been, and of sad spoliation. In this 
desolate condition the locality remained for a 
lengthened period. 

" In ancient barbarous times 
When disunited Britain ever bled, 
Lost in eternal broil." 

— Thomson. 

In 867, it is stated that a orreat battle was 
fought here between Ingvar, or Ivar, King of 
the Danes, and Ella, King of Northumbria, in 
which fierce conflict Ella and all his brave host 
perished. At a short distance due east of the 
Cathedral, in the private grounds of the Canons' 
residence, there is a cone-shaped mound or 
tumulus called Hillshaw, or Ailcy Hill ; this 
pile consists of the mouldering bones of men and 
horses, sand and gravel promiscuously inter- 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 233 

mingled ; it is traditional that this structure 
was thrown up by the Danes in disposing of 
the slain after the above-named engagement. 
The discovery here, in 1695, of Saxon and 
Danish coins is confirmatory of the tradition. 

The year 886 has been specially named as a 
memorable and eventful one in the annals of 
Ripon, whose historians unanimously assert that 
in this year the town received from King Alfred 
the Great its first royal charter of incorporation ; 
but neither the original document nor a transcript 
thereof are known to exist, and the text and 
purport of the said charter are quite problematical. 
The absence of such documents, as well as the 
scantiness of Northumbrian literature, are 
attributed to the destruction of the northern 
monasteries by the Danes. It is, however, 
generally believed that the first governors of the 
town were styled Vigilarii, or Wakemen, from the 
Saxon word ivacli — to watch and guard. The 
office of the Wakeman, we are told, was originally 
a life tenure, but subsequently the appointment 
was made annually from the twelve Eldermen, so 
named from their age when elected. 

The probability is that both the office and name 
originated with the archbishops of York, to whom 



234 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Ripon wholly — " entirely belonged," and that for 
many centuries the Vigilarius occupied the 
position of reeve, or bailiff, or watchman, subject 
in every respect to his lord the Archbishop of 
York. In reference thereto it is thus stated in 
the Domesday record — "Hoc manerium tenuit 
Eldredy Arch, nunc Thomas, Arch.'' 

An offspring of this epoch still survives in the 
performance of the ceremony of sounding a large 
horn every night as the Cathedral clock chimes 
nine. A civic officer called *^ The Horn-blower," 
in antique uniform, proceeds to the Market 
Cross, and there gives three blasts, — " loud, 
dismal, and long," — after which he hastens to 
the principal door of the Mayor's residence and 
repeats the toots. The original purport of this 
custom was to denote the setting of the watch 
or guard over the town, for the protection of 
which the Wakeman, or governor, was held 
responsible throughout the night, every house- 
holder paying an annual fee of twopence for 
each street or outer door of his dwelling to 
indemnify the Wakeman. 

In the year 924 King Athelstan, grandson of 
Alfred the Great, in fulfilment of a vow, and as a 
thank-offering for the success of his arms in 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 235 

answer to prayer, preferred at Kipon Minster, 
confirmed to the monastery all its former charters 
and privileges, and granted several other 
immunities which would considerably add to its 
importance and fame. The several privileges 
granted b}^ Athelstan are stated in two documents, 
one of which is in Latin, and the other is a 
peculiar rhyming composition, apparently a literary 
production of the thirteenth century. Like 
Hexham and Beverley, he endowed the minster 
with a frithstool (Anglo-Saxon, frith or frid, 
peace) and constituted it a sanctuary or refuge. 
The privilege of sanctuary is thus conferred — 

" Yair pees at Rijjon, 
On ilke side ye kyrke a mile 
For all ill deedes and ylke agyle. 
And within yair kirk yate 
At ye stan yat Grithstole hate, 
Within ye kirke dore and ye square 
Yair have pees for les and mare." 

The limits of the mile radius from the church 
were denoted by eight Aile-crosses placed on the 
principal approaches to the town ; they were 
known as Athelstan cross, Kangel (Archangel) 
cross, etc. ; the one known as Sharow cross 
alone remains a relic of the fifteenth century. 

In these memorable charters were included 



236 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

several other favours adapted to the wants of 
those times : inter alia those of trial by ordeal, 
either by fire or water, and that the '*ya" and 
*'na" of an inhabitant should be unquestioned 
" both amongst themselves and throughout the 
habitable world." Athelstan's famous rhyming 
charter is a curious and unique composition ; 
Gent describes it as '' in old stranofe sort of 
EngHsh." 

Soon after the death of Athelstan, King Edred, 
in his reprisals against the Northumbrians for 
their disloyalty and treachery, devastated the 
whole district, and the town and sacred buildings 
of Ripon were utterly destroyed by fire about the 
year 948. Spared, partially, if not unscathed 
through all the direful years of the Danish 
invasion, Wilfrid's splendid and famous Minster 
fell at last before the unrelenting anger of the 
king ; and along with the buildings, the chronicles, 
the literature, and the treasures of the institution 
must also have perished in the flames. ^' Pro 
infidelitate^ rex Angloimm Edi-edus totam 
Norihumhriam devastat. In qua devastatione 
Mo7iasterium quod dicitur in Hrypon a sancto 
Wilfrido episcopo quoyidam constructunif igne est 
combustum."—(Di]Gj) ale's Monasticon.) 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 



237 



Following this sad disaster, influenced either by 
intuitive consciousness or by intelligence, it is 
said Odo, Archbishop of Canterbury (971-993), 
visited the northern province, and finding Ripon 
in the ruined state to which Edred had reduced 
it, " He was struck to the heart with its 
lamentable condition, and he forthwith causid a 
newe work to be edified wher the present minstre 
now is." It is also said that at this time Odo 




ARMS OF THE CITY AND SEE OF RIPON, 



had the bones of St. Wilfrid removed to his own 
Cathedral. At the erection of this new minster 
the name of St. Wilfrid was either substituted 
for or coupled with that of St. Peter in its 
dedication. 

The re-building of the Church was completed 
by St. Oswald and the succeeding Archbishops 
of York, and a short time before the Norman 
Conquest it was made collegiate by Archbishop 
Aldred, but in what manner does not seem clear. 



238 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

King Edward the Confessor confirmed to 
Ripon and its Minster all their liberties and 
privileges. 

The relative size and importance of Ripon 
during the Anglo-Saxon regime were probably 
greater than at any other period of its history, 
considering that during the reign of Alfred the 
Great the population of England and Wales 
is believed to have not exceeded one million. 

Let us with mental vision glance at the restored 
hamlet of ^r?/29|}itn as it appeared at the time of 
the Norman invasion. See ! a jutting headland 
pointing eastward, rising somewhat abruptly 
from a morass or reedy marsh, caused by the 
impatient converging waters of the Ure and 
Scell ; and trending westward as far as the eye 
can reach a long undulating acclivity springing 
northward in gentle bounds. See ! crowning 
this eminence at its eastern extremity the newly 
erected collegiate Church, dedicated to the glory 
of God and to the honour of the two intrepid 
missionaries, SS. Peter and Wilfrid, and nestling 
around the sacred edifice the unpretentious 
dwellings of the clergy, brethren, students, and 
artisans in connection therewith. Observe the 
building next in importance to the Minster 



RIPON AND ITS MINSTER. 239 

standino^ a short distance to the north-westward 
of it, — that is the palace of Archbishop Aldred. 
And on all sides round see the numerous small 
garden plots and the squat structures of timber — 
the humble homes of the people standing alone 
therein, studding the green and sunny slopes 
that spring from the sedgy verge of the 
brooklet Scell ''that babbles by." Alas! how 
soon this peaceful Arcadian scene was to be 
totally swept away. 



IRipon Spurs* 

By T. C. Heslington. 

THE particular date on which the manu- 
facture of spurs, and other hardware 
necessary for an equestrian outfit, commenced in 
Ripon is not stated in the town records. Leland, 
journeying through Yorkshire in 1534, observed 
that there had been '' hard on the further rype 
of Skelle a great number of tenters for woollen 
clothes wont to be made in the towne of Rippon, 
but idlenesse is sore increasid in the towne, and 
clothe making almost decayed." We may reason- 
ably suppose no other manufacture was carried on 
at that time, or he would have noticed it, and 
therefore the period comprised between his visit 
and the year 1604, the date on which the cor- 
poration record commences, saw not only the 
beginning of the spur manufacture, but its 
attainment to great celebrity for excellent 
material and workmanship. 

Hand-wrought steel and iron work had arrived 
at great perfection of artistic workmanship at 



RIPON SPURS. 241 

that time in Europe, and to be able to compete 
successfully with such trained craftsmen as were 
similarly employed elsewhere, reflects great credit 
upon those ancient Ripon tradesmen. No doubt 
their productions were in great demand when all 
journeys were on foot or horseback, and the breed 
of horses Avas as yet unimproved by the intro- 
duction of the spirited and generous-tempered 
Arabian. The heavy sluggish hacks of the 
period needed constant urging with whip and 
spur. 

Amongst the many Ripon gilds, the hardware 
craftsmen were all united in one, called the 
Corporation and Company of Blacksmiths, Lock- 
smiths, Lorimers, and Armourers. 

The Ripon spurs had a great reputation all 
over the country, and became the origin of a pro- 
verbial saying, ''As true steel as Ripon rowels," 
and Ben Johnson, in his " Staple of Newes," has : 

" Why, there's an angel if my spurs 
Be not right Rippon," 

and Davenant, in his '' Wits," has : 

"Whip me with wire beaded with rowels of 
Sharp Rippon spurs." 

When passing through Ripon in 1617, King 
James the First was presented with a gilt bowl, 



242 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and a pair of Ripon spurs, " Which spurres were 
such a contentment to his Majestic as his High- 
nesse did weare the same the followynge day at 
his departure forth of the said towne." 

Plain steel spurs at one shilling, and wrought 
spurs at seven shillings and sixpence the pair, 
were most manufactured ; those made of precious 
metals were generally for presentation purposes 
— some of the wrought spurs have been collected 
in the neighbourhood, and all have the same 
peculiar conventional device in silver, inlaid in 
the dark grey steel, with which the white silver 
pattern has a charming contrast and effect. A 
pair of these were presented to the Archbishop of 
York when he visited his Liberty of Ripon, and 
a pair of the plain ones to each of his retinue. 

When Gent wrote his " History of Rippon " 
in 1732, the trade was still flourishing, but soon 
afterwards rapidly decayed. Alderman Terry, 
during a long life of ninety years, was three times 
Mayor of Ripon, and the last of the spurriers, the 
trade becoming extinct with his business trans- 
actions in the year 1798. 

The Gild were over anxious to protect them- 
selves, and with their fees, fines, and other 
exactions, deterred others from commencing the 



RIPON SPURS. 24:^ 

business, and drove them elsewhere, and the 
trade finally left the town as the old firms died 
out. 

The Corporation Chronicle mentions the names 
of some of the spurriers, but the majority of them 
are unrecorded, the only memorials of their skill 
being a '' Motto," and the " Crest" of the City. 



Captain Coo^, tbe Circumnavigator. 

By W. H. Burxett. 

YORKSHIRE, as the premier English county, 
should reckon for something in the national 
history, even in the domain of prowess on the 
high seas. And we are not surprised when we 
find that it is so. The names of Frobisher, the 
Scoresbys, and Hornby naturally arise in the 
mind when we come to consider our naval annals. 
The former was born in Doncaster town in the 
far-away times of Elizabeth. We are told that 
he was " bred early to the sea," and he sailed 
from Deptford in 157fi, having obtained the 
patronage of the Earl of Warwick, with three 
small vessels in quest of a north-west passage to 
India, then the darling dream of daring navigators. 
He did not find the passage, but he returned 
with some " black ore," which is said to have 
contained gold, so he was sent out again by his 
patrons for more " black ore," and more than one 
additional voyage was made in this strange 
auriferous quest, which in the end did not prove 



CAPTAIN COOK, THE CIRCUMNAVIGATOB. 245 

successful. Later on, in 1585, we find him serving 
with Drake in the West Indies, and in 1588 he 
had a prominent share in the defeat of the 
Spanish Armada. The same year he was 
knighted, but he did not wear his honours long, 
for his death occurred in 1594, when he was killed 
in an assault on a fort near Brest. Frobisher was a 
great Yorkshireman in a time when men were 
not pigmies. In the days of good Queen Bess 
the foundations of our empire w^ere being laid 
broad and deep, and our sea warriors were the 
providential instruments of guarding them from 
destruction at the hands of an hostile enemy, 
whose fleets were a " long lane " in the English 
Channel, almost covering it with ships. 

The Scoresbys, father and son, were com- 
paratively modern men. The elder was a mariner 
of Whitby in the last century, when Whitby 
was a famous port, and the great centre of the 
English whale fishery. He was the son of a 
small Yorkshire farmer, but became famous for 
his prowess in the northern seas. He invented 
the *' round top-gallant crow's nest," said to be 
one of the greatest boons conferred on Arctic 
navigators. His son, subsequently the Rev. 
William Scoresby, followed in the same career, and 



246 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

wrote a life of his father, in which he detailed his 
many and singular adventures. His works on 
the whale fishery are still highly valued, and are 
standards of reference for all who desire to make 
themselves acquainted with the marvels of the 
Polar Seas. 

Other famous Yorkshire sailors are Captain 
Stonehouse, who was born at Yarm ; Captain 
Wilson, of Great Ayton ; Captain Constantine 
John Phipps, of Whitby ; and Captain Hornby, 
of Stokesley. The exploits of these worthy 
gentlemen are described in " Old Cleveland," 
and to these, as duly therein set forth, I must 
refer the curious reader, remarking en passant 
that Hornby's bravery in an action with a 
French privateer, the Marquis de Brancas, is 
one of the most stirring stories of British naval 
heroism. 

But Captain James Cook was the greatest 
Briton of them all. He was born of very humble 
parents, in the village of Marton-in-Cleveland, on 
the 27th of October, 1728, and was one of the 
nine children in the family quiver. These were 
not days of School Boards, and Cook's education 
was consequently of the most limited character, 
a smattering from a villao^e dame, and then a 



CAPTAIN COOK, THE CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 247 

superstructure added by the master of a small 
seminary at the neighbouring village of Ayton- 
in-Cleveland. His character in childhood is 
described as having been obstinate and sturdy 
rather than social and intelligent. At thirteen 
years of age he had made such progress in his 
studies that he was considered qualified to take 
the position of an apprentice in the establishment 
of Mr. William Sanderson, a shop-keeper at 
Staithes, the most romantic of our Yorkshire 
fishinof villaofes. Here he would inhale the 
" odour of ocean," would become familiar with 
many tales of the sea, and would have his ears 
saluted daily with that strange wave music which 
makes such an appeal to the intellectual and the 
imaginative. At any rate he found haberdashery 
a tame pursuit, and, before he had been with Mr. 
Sanderson two years, he was released from his 
indentures, and embarked on that calling by 
which he was to earn his future renown. He 
was bound apprentice on board the True 
Love, '^ belonging," according to the narrative of 
Sir Raylton Dixon, ''to two Quaker brothers of 
the name of Walker, of Whitby, and who were 
shippers engaged in the coal trade, which has 
been the nursery and training school of so many 



248 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

of our ablest seamen." Eventually Cook attained 
the position of master of a collier brig. In 1755 
the war broke out with France, and the press- 
gang then in operation were seizing large 
numbers of sailors for enforced service in His 
Majesty's navy. Cook determined voluntarily 
to serve his country, and engaged himself 
on board the ship Eoigle, of sixty guns. Here, 
so soon did his abilities manifest themselves, 
that when Captain Hugh Palliser (soon to 
be such a warm friend and benefactor) took 
command of the vessel only a few months 
later, he found Cook already distinguished by his 
good character and superior abilities. Four 
years afterwards the son of the Marton peasant 
obtained a master's warrant to II, M.S. Mercury, 
in which vessel he sailed to join the fleet engaged 
in the reduction of Quebec. Here he surveyed 
the river St. Lawrence, and replaced the buoys 
which had been removed by our French enemies. 
On his return, he was appointed master of the 
Northumherla7id, under Lord Colville, who was 
stationed at Halifax. Here he perfected his 
studies in navigation, and prepared himself for 
the great tasks of his after-life. In 1762, his 
ship was ordered to Newfoundland to assist in 



CAPTAIN COOK, THE CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 249 

the re-capture of that island, and once again he 
employed his skill and talents in making nautical 
surveys of the coast, ''' laying down bearings, 
marking headlands, and soundings." In 1762, we 
find him towards the close of the year in 
England, where he married at Barking, in 




CAPTAIN COOK. 



Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, who is described 
in his biographies as a truly amiable and 
excellent woman. Having completed his survey 
of Newfoundland, he entered upon the great 
career of his life as a circumnavigator and 
discoverer. In 17G9, he was promoted to the 



250 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

command of a scientific expedition which was 
sent out by George III., in conjunction with the 
Royal Society, to observe a transit of the planet 
Venus over the face of the sun, and which could 
only be successfully seen somewhere in the Pacific 
or the southern oceans. The Endeavour reached 
Otaheite on the 11th of April in the following 
year, where an observatory was erected, and on 
the 3rd of June the transit was successfully 
observed in a cloudless sky. They left the 
beautiful island — an earthly paradise — on the 13th 
of July, and on the way home Cook explored 
New Zealand and made discoveries in New 
South Wales, following the coast for a distance 
of over 1,300 miles. After many voyagings, 
and escaping many perils. Captain Cook brought 
his expedition safe home to England, and 
anchored in the Downs on the 11th of June, 
1771. He was almost immediately promoted to 
the rank of Commander, and became the lion 
of the hour, and was everywhere received with 
ovations, and much talked of and written about. 
His second voyage of discovery was to test the 
existence of the Terra Australis Incognito, a 
geographical dream which had held possession 
of the scientific mind of Europe for over two 



CAPTAIN COOK, THE CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 251 

centuries. For this expedition he was furnished 
with two ships, the Resolution and the old 
Endeavour. The two vessels quitted Plymouth 
on the 13th of July, 1772. On the 10th of 
December they fell in with immense icebergs, 
and on the 14th the ships were stopped by a 
field of low ice. By the 17th of January, 1773, 
they found they could proceed no further, and 
after heading about until the 14th of May in 
rough and dangerous seas, Captain Cook came to 
the conclusion that the Southern continent was 
a myth, and made tracks for New Zealand, 
anchoring in Dusky Bay on the 26th of 
March, after having been 117 days at sea, and 
traversing 3,660 leagues without once seeing any 
land. At New Zealand they landed that historic 
boar and those two sows which have since filled the 
islands, hitherto almost innocent of animal life, 
with their numerous progeny. After leaving 
New Zealand, the expedition made for Otaheite 
for the second time, staying here until his 
crew became troublesome, and made alliances 
with the beautiful native women, which became 
demoralising and hampering. Cook next went in 
quest of the island of Juan Fernandez. He visited 
in turn Easter Island, the Marquesas, St. 



252 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Christina, and then came back again to Otaheite. 
Here they rested awhile, and then set sail west- 
ward to New Zealand, discovering many islands 
on the way. From thence he sailed for the Straits 
of Magellan, and thence to the Cape of Good 
Hope on his homeward journey. The Resolution 
ultimately entered Portsmouth on the 30th of 
July, 1775, and Captain Cook landed after an 
absence of three years and eighteen days, having 
sailed 20,000 leagues in various climates, in the 
two hemispheres, ^' from the extreme of heat to 
the extreme of cold." On the 10th of February, 
1776, Cook was again commissioned for another 
voyage of discovery. He had offered his services 
to explore the Northern Seas with a view of dis- 
covering a north-west passage to India, and they 
were gladly accepted. In the undertaking he 
was but following in the footsteps of the famous 
Yorkshiremen, Frobisher and Phipps, who had 
preceded him. Cook was instructed to proceed 
into the South Pacific, and thence to try the 
passage by the way of Behring's Straits. He 
left England on the 12th of July, 1776. On the 
24th of January in the following year they came 
in sight of Van Dieman's Land ; in February 
they reached New Zealand. The Friendly Islands 



CAPTAIN COOK, THE CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 253 

were next visited by the ships, and here they 
remained three months. They next touched at 
Otaheite. On the 2nd of January, 1778, the 
Doyaijeurs went northward to pursue their grand 
object in Behring's Straits. They continued 
to traverse the icy seas, exploring the coasts 
of America and Asia, but finding no passage 
through the ice barrier which blocked their pro- 
gress. They therefore started on their homeward 
journey, discovering many new islands on the 
Wciy. At length they reached Owhyhee (now 
spelt Hawaii), which was to be the final goal of 
the great captain's labours and discoveries. Here 
he was killed in a quarrel with the natives, who 
had seized the cutter of the Discovery as it lay at 
anchor. The record of his death is very affect- 
ing. This took place on the 14th February, 
1779, in what a writer has described as "an 
inglorious brawl with a set of savages." Cook 
was one of the most illustrious of our Engflish 
naviofators, and was the tjreatest discoverer of 
them all. A medal was struck in his honour by 
the Royal Society, and the Government gave a 
handsome pension to his widow. Great empires 
are now growing up in the lands which he visited 
and discovered, and the steamship, the railway, 



2M BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and the telegraph have drawn the different parts 
of the world so closely together that the mystery 
of distant places which charmed the imagination 
of the world in the last century no longer exists. 
A modern novelist, Mr. Robert Louis Stevenson, 
is actually " anchored " in Samoa, and writing 
stories there for the home market, and missionaries 
and traders swarm all over the beautiful islands 
of the Polynesian Seas. 



3farnlc^ IbalL 

By J. A. Clapham. 

OF all the rivers of England, the Wharfe 
can claim to rank amongst the most 
charminof and the most variable. Not con- 
taminated like its sisters, the Aire and the 
Calder, with the refuse and dyewares of large 
towns, it flows on its course nearly as pure as 
when the Roman cohorts settled at Ilkley and 
the Saxons overran the country. Rising 
amongst the moors, it flows in a south-easterl}^ 
direction until it falls into the Ouse at Cawood. 
In its early life it rushes through narrow defiles 
and by scenes vocal with legendary stories, 
as it passes Barden Tower, Bolton Abbey, and 
Beamsley Hall ; but in its later course it flows 
calmly amidst well-cultivated meadows and a 
beautifully wooded country. Ruskin has told us 
in one of his wonderful sketches how finely 
the Wharfe looks when the clouds, having settled 
upon the mountains, and a few da3?'s' rain 
ensued, the fresh has come down the valley, 



256 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

and the river, full to the brim, has appeared 
to the poet's eye Hke a Damascus blade. He 
says that the Swiss rivers, swollen and angry 
with the melting snows, are not to be compared 
to the Wharfe in flexibility, solidity, directness, 
and power. Those who were born upon its 
banks, who have seen it in a hot and dry 
summer, and also after a heavy storm, when 
the valley has appeared like a lake, and the 
people have had to flee for their lives, can 
appreciate its variable mood and constant change. 

Where the dale opens out and the hills begin 
to recede, close to the market town of Otley, 
is the seat of the Fawkes, called Farnley Hall. 
Facing the south, upon a gentle slope which 
runs down to the river, it may indeed be said 
to be beautiful for situation. 

Farnlev is a Saxon name, and the villaore is 
called Fernelai in Domesday Book. The family 
of Fawkes lived here for many centuries, and 
the first mention of the name was in Easter 
term, 1289, when, in the reign of Edward I., 
damaofes were ofranted in favour of Falkes, who 
had been charged with others for cutting down 
woods at Lyndeleye. Mr. Wh eater, in his 
'' Historic Mansions of Yorkshire," says that 



FARNLEY HALL. 257 

in the time of the Plantagenets, Wharfedale 
was a grand hunting-ground from Nun Appleton 
to Barden, and no doubt the owners were strict 
game preservers, who punished with death those 
who were convicted of poaching. In 1300, a 
Fawkes of Lindley did homage to the Arch- 
bishop of York for his possessions. In 1441, 
John Fawkes was a leader who raised a tumult 
in opposition to the tolls demanded at the Ripon 
and Otley markets. In 1626, Mr. Thomas 
Fawkes, of Farnley Hall, was rated at £13 6s. 8d. 
as a loan to Charles I., when that tyrant was 
raising his illegal ship-money. In 1702, Ralph 
Thorsby, the eminent antiquary, mentions 
" Farnley Hall the pleasant seat of Thomas Fawkes, 
Esq., my dearest father's best friend and mine." 

At the commencement of the present century 
the representative of the family took a most 
active part in the great struggle for peace, 
retrenchment, and reform. When the conflict 
was rao^ino^ between the rival noble families of 
Fitzwilliam and Lascelles, the Fawkes stood up 
for the rights of the people, and spared neither 
exertion nor money to further the cause of justice, 
righteousness, and truth. To help the cause he 
spent at least £1,000 a day. 



258 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

Walter Fawkes, the honoured patron of 
Turner, is one to whom the high privilege was 
granted of having recognised the talent of 
England's greatest landscape painter, when often 
by the careless and thoughtless his productions 
were laughed to scorn. In this picturesque old 
Hall, partly Elizabethan, with gabled roofs and 
transumed windows, and partly classical with 
the straight lines and square windows of 
Vanburgh, the celebrated architect of Castle 
Howard, Turner was ever a welcome guest. It 
is said the Hall contains £100,000 worth of 
his paintings. When the great painter had 
been on one of his travelling tours on the Rhine 
or in Switzerland, he returned to rest himself 
awhile by the side of the silver Wharfe, assured 
of a warm welcome and a liberal price for 
everything he chose to paint. The late Mr. 
Fawkes told the writer that he and Turner 
were one day watching from the terrace a storm 
that was passing across the brow of jthe Chevin, 
which rises so finely at the other side of the 
river. With a master's hand he drew the scene 
upon the back of an envelope, and to-day may be 
observed in the National Gallery the lightning 
flash, in "Hannibal crossing the Alps.'" The 







PARNLEV HALL. 



260 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

walls of Farnley are rich with the pictures 
and sketches which came from his wonderful 
mind and patient and industrious hand. " The 
Confluence of the Wharfe and Washburn," '' The 
Strid," '* Luncheon on the Moors," " Dort,"— a 
very fine picture, valued at least at £5,000, — 
" Waterfall seen from Bolton Abbey," and many 
more, are the titles of lovely landscapes w^hich 
show the vitality and fertility of the great genius. 
After the death of Mr. Fawkes, Turner could 
never be induced again to visit the scenes he 
so much loved, and Ruskin tells us that in his 
old age he could never mention without emotion 
the rounded hills, the wooded heights, the clear 
streams, and the ruined abbey and castles of 
lovely Wharfedale. Besides the pictures of 
Turner there are many fine specimens of ancient 
and modern painters, Guido Reni, Corregio, 
Guercino, Lucas Van Leyden, Ruysdail, Cuyp, 
Rubens, Vandyke, Velasquez, Holbein, Carlo 
Dolei, Greuze, Annibale Carvacci, Bakhuizen, 
Hogarth, Romney, are all represented on the 
walls. The late Mr. Fawkes was especially fond 
of the Magdalen by Guido Reni, and used to 
spend hours in his wheeled chair gazing with 
rapture upon the picture. 



FARNLEY HALL. 261 

But not only is Farnley Hall rich with price- 
less gems of some of our greatest English and 
Continental masters, but many of the heroes 
of the seventeenth century are represented 
here in weapons of war and articles of 
dress. The Fairfaxes, who lived at Denton, 
Nun Appleton, Newton Kyme, and Bilbrough, 
and who fought in many a fierce conflict in 
Yorkshire and elsewhere, — Oliver Cromwell, 
who gave peace to Ireland, and nobly defended 
England against all her enemies, domestic and 
foreign, — General Lambert, who, through the 
intercession of Kichard Clapham, spared Skipton 
Castle from destruction, are all remembered by 
their swords, watches, candlesticks, chains, hats, 
armour, and a seal of the Commonwealth. 

The collection of old furniture is well worthy 
of notice, and is far superior to the wretched 
Georgian examples, which are well worthy of the 
age of mediocrity, pretence, and falseness in 
which they were fashioned. Covering marble 
with plaster, and frescoes with white-wash, 
harmonized with the times of the Stuarts and 
the Georges. 

The present possessor of Farnley Hall is Mr. 
Ayscough Fawkes, who upon written application 



262 BYGONE YORKSHIRE. 

is always ready to show his treasures to the 
historian and the antiquary. He does not make 
it a show place for the tripper, who too often 
leaves behind broken bottles, scraps of news- 
papers, and other litter where his desecrating 
footprints are seen. But to the intelligent, the 
artist, the reader, the lover of natural scenery, 
whether he be as poor as a dormouse or as rich 
as Croesus, a cordial welcome is given, believing 
that he will do his best to preserve that which is 
worthy of all admiration. 

In the exterior, the gateway leading into the 
flower garden came from Menstone Hall, where 
Cromwell was the guest of Colonel Charles Fair- 
fax before the battle of Marston Moor. Farnley 
Church, a plain building erected in the thirteenth 
century, was restored by Mr. F. H. Fawkes in 
1851. Whitaker thus describes it in his day: 
" A.bout half a mile above (an unusual distance 
from the Manor House) is the diminutive and 
antique chapel, of which only the choir remains. 
At the west end is the original arch of the choir, 
with fillet mouldings of the twelfth century. 
After the first nave was demolished, the choir 
underwent an enlargement eastw^ards, but even 
this has single and narrow windows not later than 



FARNLEY HALL. 263 

the time of Henry III. It is seldom that we 
see such appearance of high antiquity, at least in 
the North of England, attached to such humble 
foundations. It is in the strict and canonical 
sense of the word a chapel-of-ease to Otley ; for 
here is no font and there are no interments." 
Since this was written the restorer and his wife 
have been laid at rest within the sacred enclosure. 
Leathley Church, which has a tower which many 
consider to be Saxon, is a living in the gift of the 
Fawkes family. 

Taking it as a whole, its charming situation, its 
artistic associations, its picturesque appearance, 
and its historical and legendary annals, few places 
in the county, rich in antiquarian lore, can vie 
with Farnley Hall. 




3nbey. 



Acre, Siege of, 142 

Ash ^Yednesday, 200 

Aske, Robert, 178-83, 185-7, 

189-91 
Athelstan, 235 

Battle of By land Abbey, 160 
Battle at Ripon, 232 
Belemnites (thunder-bolts), 61 
Bokyng, John, 117 
Bolton Castle and the Scropes, 82 ; 

building of, 87 ; surrender of, 

92 
Boy Bishop, York, 199 
Brag, 59 
British Forts, 82 
Byland Abbey, 154; Early 

History, 154-6; Ruin, the, 163 
Bygot, Sir Francis, 187-190 

Castile, Constance of, 68 

Castles, Bolton, 82 ; Bowes, 72 ; 
Cawood, 68 ; Conisborough, 
65, 83, 120 ; Helmsley, 70 ; 
Knaresborough, 68 ; Middle- 
ham, 71 ; Mulgrave, 70 ; 
Pontefract, 65, 182 ; Ravens- 
worth, 71 ; Richmond, 71 ; 
Sandal, 67 ; Scarborough, 70; 
Sheriff Hutton, 69 ; Skipton, 
69 ; Windsor, 85, 87 ; York, 
69 

Castles and Castle Builders, 82 ; 

Castles in Stephen's time, 84-5 

Castellorum Operatio, 85 

Castle ward, 85 

Chapel of Our Lady, Rotherham, 
117 

Charles I. at Rotherham, 116 

Christmas Day, 199 

Clifford, Lord, 69 

Coinage, Saxon, 55 

Constable, Sir Robert, 180, 189, 
190-1 



Cook, Captain, 244-254 ; birth, 
246 ; marriage, 249 ; death, 
253 

Copsi slain, 84 

Court at Y'ork, 191 

Crannoges, 6 

Crusades, 127, 135 

Danes, their customs, etc., 56-63 
Darcy, Lord, 180-3, 189-191 
Dissolution of Monasteries, 175 

Eadwine, King of Northumbria, 

192 
Eata's Monastery, 222 
Edred in Northumbria, 237 
Egir, The, 58 
Elfwine, 145-6 
Excommunication, 201 

Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 70 
Farnley Hall, 255 ; art treasures 

and relics, 260-261 ; the 

Church, 262 
Fawkes, The, 256; Ayscough, 

261; Guy, etc., 204-212; 

Walter, 258 
Fiddler of York, 203 
Filey Brigg, legend, 60 
Fitzhugh, Lord, 71 
Fountains Abbey, 150 
Freyja, 62 
Frobisher, 244 

Gospels, a rare MS. , 226 
Grey, Lord, 66 

Gunpowder Plot, A Story of the, 
204 

Hallam, John, 180, 183, 188 
Hand, Handsel, 59 
Henry 11. at Bridgenorth, 86 
Henry VIIL, 174-8, 185, 190-1 
Horn-blower, 234 



266 



INDEX. 



Hryppun in 1066, 238 
Hugh de Mortimer, 86 

Ivanhoe Country, The, 115 

James I., 242 
Jerusalem captured, 142 
Jews, Massacre of, 78-80 

Kendal, Rising near, 190 

Knights Hospitallers, 128 ; Tem- 
plars, 124 ; Order founded, 
130 ; Valour of, 138 

Lake-dwellings of Yorkshire, 1 ; 
Articles found in, 23, 28; 
Dwellers, etc., 6-11 ; at Hull, 
35 ; at Ulrome, 19-35 
Lancaster, Earl of, 65 
Lincolnshire, Rising in, 177 

Mary Queen of Scots, 88, 116 
Maunday Thursday, 200 
Meldrum, Sir John, 70 
Monolith, An ancient, 39 ; Tradi- 
tion re, 40 
Mowbray, Roger de, 155-6 

Names, re Rivers, etc. , 48 ; 

Personal, Scandinavian, 63 
Norfolk, Duke of, 184-6, 190 
Norman Castles, 84 

Oswald, King, 193 
Owhyhee, 253 

Palliser, Hugh, 248 

Palm Sunday, 200 

Payens, Hugh de, 130 

Penance, 202 

Persecution of Roman Catholics, 
206 

Peter the Hermit, 127 

Pigs at New Zealand, 251 

Pilgrimage of Grace, The, 66, 
174; Army, The, 183; Don- 
caster Armistice, 184 ; Hull, 
^ at, 183; Leaders, The, 180, 
182 ; Pontefract surrendered, 
182 

Procession, re Wilfred, 228 

Purification, Feast of the, 199 

Ramparts, Walls, and Bars of 
York, 93 



I Relics and Remnants, 46 ; re 
I Ulrome, 46 ; re High Bon- 

wick, 47 

Richard IL, 66 

Ripon and its Minster, 221 ; 
Burnt, 232, 236 

Ripon Spurs, 240 

Robin Hood in Yorkshire, 164 ; 
his death, 172; his epitaph, 
173 

Rock Day, 216 

Roman Works, 82 

Romans at York, 49-54 

Rotherham stormed, 116; Thomas 
de, 117 

Rudston, 43 

Salladin, 139, 141 

Sanctuary at Ripon, 235 

Sanderson, Robert, 118 

Saxons, The, 54-56 

Saxon Works, 83 

Scoresbys, The, 245 

Scots Monastery, 222 

Scropes, The, 87 ; Earl of Wilt- 
shire, 88 ; Henry, of Masham, 
91 ; High Chancellor, 87 ; 
Richard, Archbishop of York, 
90 ; The last Lord, 92 

Sepulchre, The Holy, 125 

Shrewsbury, Lord, 182-4 

Shrove Tuesday, 199 

Siward, 146 

Spinning-jenny, The, 218 

Spinning-wheel, The, 213 

Stapleton, William, 180, 183, 
187 

St. Austin's Stone, 55 

St. DistaflPs Day, 216 

St. Mary's Abbey, York, 145 ; 
Abbots : Stephen, 148; Simon 
de Warwick, 150 ; Thomas of 
Malton, 151 ; William Dent, 
151; founded, 148; Monks, 
violence of, 148 ; surrender 
of, 151 ; vandalism, 152 

St. Olave's Monastery, 147 

Theological Disputes, 222-3 
Thor, his Hammer, etc., 60-61 
Tufa, Orb, or Globe, 49 
Turks, Oppression of, 126 
Turner, 258 

Ulphus, Horn of, 194 



INDEX. 



267 



Venus, Transit of, 250 
Vow of Earl Albemarle, 126 

VVakemen, or Vigilarii, 233 
Wapentakes, 57 
Washing of Feet, 200 
Wharfe, The, 255 
Whitby, Synod at, 222 
Wilfred, Bishop, 194, 221-231 
William Rufus, 148 
Windows, Ancient, 194 
Wymond the Saxon, 156-60 

York, 93, 180; Walls, 96, 99- 
100, 104; Bayle Hill, 102; 
Bootham Bar, 108 ; British 
Works, 102; Clifford's Mound, 
103; Micklegate Bar, 112; 
Monk Bar, 110 ; Multangular 



Tower, 98 ; Roman Gates, 
etc., 97-8; Walmgate Bar, 

York Castle, 74 ; Athelstan at, 
75 ; Destruction of, 81 ; 
William I. at, 76-7 

\'"ork, Richard Duke of, 67 

York Minster, history, traditions, 
etc., 192; Canons, 195; 
Chapter House, 203 ; choir- 
screen, 203 ; east window, 
203 ; installation, 198 ; 
Mediaeval brass, 203 ; nave, 
201 ; prayers, 195 ; Shrine of 
St. William, 202; watching 
gallery, 202 

Yorkshire Castles, 65 ; dismantled 
73 

Y'orkshire Sailors, 244-6 



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Contents of Volume I. : — Historic Lincolnshire, by John Nicholson — The 
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by John H Leggott, f.r.h.s. — Henry Welby, the Grub Street Hermit, 
by Theo Arthur— The Plague in Alford, 1630, by the Rev. Geo S 
Tyack, h.a. — Kirke White in Lincolnshire, by Alfred Lishman — Index. 

Contents of V^oliime II. : — Lincoln Cathedral, by T Tindall Wildridge 
— Lincoln Castle, by E Mansell Sympson, m.d. — Tattershall, its Lords, 
its Castle, and its Church, by E Mansell Sympson, m.d. — Bolingbroke 
C'astle, by Tom Robinson, \i. d. — Ancient Stained Glass at Barton-on- 
Huniber, and the ^reat Earl Beaumont, by T Tindall Wildridge— On the 
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Beliefs and Customs of Lincolnshire, by the Rev. Wm. Proctor Swaby, d.d, 
— The Legend of Byard's Leap, by the Rev, J Conway Walter — 
Thornton Abbey, by Frederick Ross, f.r.h.s. — The Witches of Belvoir, 
by T Broadbent Trowsdale — The Battle of Lincoln, by Edward 
Lamplough — Lincoln Fair, by Edward Lamplough — Alford Fight, by the 
Rev. (Jeo S Tyack, is.a. — Robert de Brunne, by Frederick Ross, f.r.h.s. 
— Dr. Dodd, tlie Forger, by John T Page — Sir Isaac Newton — Barton- 
on-Humber Ferry, by C H Crowder— An Eighteenth Century Poet, by 
the Rev. Alan Cheales, m.a. — Lincolnshire a Century Ago — Spalding 
(Jentlemen's Society, by Dr. Perry — The Great Brass Welkyn of Boston, 
by William Stevenson— The Great Hawthorn Tree of Fish toft — Index. 

PRESS OPINION. 

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eastern county which has borne so conspicuous a part in the past history 
of England, and produced so many men who have illustrated it. , . A 
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T 



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Q^gjone (B00e;r : 

Its History, Folk-Lore, and Memorable Men and 

Women. 

Edited by WILLIAM ANDREWS, f.r.h.s., 

Author of "Old-Time Punishments," "Curiosities of 
the Church," "Old Church Lore." 



CONTENTS. 

Historic Essex, by Thomas Frost — Epping Forest : Its History, 
Customs, and Laws, by Jesse Quail — Greenstead Church, by Edward 
Lamplough — The Burial of Harold at Waltham, by William 
Winters, f.r.h.s. — St. Osyth's Priory, by John T Page — Colchester in 
Olden Times, by Joseph W Spurgeon — ^The Siege of Colchester, by 
Joseph W Spurgeon — Colchester : Its Historic Buildings and Famous 
Men, by Joseph W" Spurgeon— Essex Tokens, by Thomas Forster — 
Queen Elizabeth at Tilbury : A Glance at Armada Days, by Edward 
Lamplough — The Lawless Court, by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, b.a. — The 
Dunmow Flitch — A Deserted Primitive Village, by ii Fredk. Beaumont 
— William Hunter, the Young Martyr of Brentwood, by John W^ Odling 
— Fairlop Fair by John W Odling— Thomas Tusser and his " Five 
Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," by W H Thompson — John Ray, 
Naturalist, by W H Thompson — Wanstead House, by John T Page — 
Hopkins, the Witchfinder, by Frederick Ross, f.r.h.s. — An Essex Poet, 
by the Rev. Geo. S Tyack, b.a. -Historic Harwich — Old Bow Bridge, by 
John T Page — Index. 

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'•Good paper, good type, and good illustrations all help to make 
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Edited by ERNEST AXON. 



Contents : — Historic Lancashire, by Ernest Axon — The Religious Life of 
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William Hewitson— Some Early Manchester Grammar School Boys, by 
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Fishwick, f. s. a. —Lancashire Sundials, by W^illiam E A Axon, m.r.s.l. 
— The Plague in Liverpool, by J Cooper Morley — The Old Dated Bell at 
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Ernest Axon — The " Black Art" at Bolton— An Infant Prodigy in 1679, 
by Arthur W Croxton — Wife Desertion in the Olden Times — The Colquitt 
Family of Liverpool — Some Old Lancashire Punishments — Bury Simnels — 
Eccles Wakes, by H Cottam— Furness Abbey— Colonel Rosworm and the 
Siege of Manchester, by George C Yates, f.s.a. — Poems of Lancashire 
Places, by William E A Axon, m.r.s.l.— Father Arrowsmith's Hand, by 
Rush worth Armytage — Index — Illustrated. 

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Palatine." — Liverpool Mercury. 

" The book is excellently printed and bound." — Library Review. 

' ' ' Bygone Lancashire ' is a welcome addition to the literature of the 
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contains a few illustrations, is well got up, and does credit to the 
publishers. " — Manchester Courier. 

" This is another of those clearly-printed, well-covered, readable, 
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Wl^^i W0pAMpT01l^pIl(E, 

Its History, Folk-Lore, and Memorable Men and Women 
Edited by WILL/AM ANDREWS, f.r.h.s., 

Author of "Old-Time Punishments," "Curiosities of the Church,'' 
"Old Church Lore." 



Content.^ : — Historic Northamptonshire, by Thomas Frost — The Eleanor 
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by Mrs. Dempsey— The Battle of Naseby, by Edward Lamplougjh— The 
Cottage Countess — The Charnel House at Roth well, by Edward Chamber- 
lain — The Gunpowder Plot, by John T Page— Earls Barton Church, by 
T Tindall Wildridge— Old Fairs, by William Sharman — Witches and 
Witchcraft, by Eugene Teesdale — The City of Peterborough, by Frederick 
Ross, F.R.H.S. — The English Founders of the Washington Family of 
America, by Thomas Frost — Ann Brad street, the Earliest American 
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Cohen — Old Scarlett, the Peterborough Sexton — Accounts of Towcester 
Constables, by John Nicholson — Miserere Shoemaker of Wellingborough, 
by T Tindall Wildridge — Sir Thomas Tresham and his Buildings, by John 
T Page— Northamptonshire Folk-Lore, by John Nicholson — Northampton- 
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A carefully prepared Index — lUnMrafiom^. 

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' ' An interesting volume, as well as being got up in exceptionally good 
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not only a thing of beauty, but also a veritable treasure-house of reliable 
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" A welcome addition to the shelves of anyone interested in the 
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SS^gone 2)erb^6bire: 

Its Histopy, Romance, Folk-Lore, Curious 
Customs, etc. 

Edited by WILLIAM ANDREWS, f.r.ii.s. 

DERBYSHIRE is rich in historical associations of an out-of-the-way 
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old church lore, family romance, traditions, curious customs, witchcraft 
well-dressing, old-time sports, etc., etc. 



ConfeMtx : — Historic Derbyshire — On an Early Christian Tomb at Wirks- 
worth — Curious Derbyshire Lead-Mining Customs — The Place-Name 
Derby — Duffield Castle — Haddon Hall — The Romance of Haddon Hall — 
The Ordeal of Touch— The Monumental Brasses at Tides well — Bolsover 
Castle — The Lamp of St. Helen — Peveril Castle — Samuel Slater, the 
Father of the American Cotton Manufacture — The Bakewell Witches — 
Mary Queen of Scots in Derbyshire — The Babington Conspiracy — Eyam 
and its Sad Memories — Well-Dressing — Old-Time Football — After Thirty 
Years ; An Incident of the Civil War — Derbyshire and the '4') — Bess of 
Hardwick — Shadows of Romance — Index. 



-^1- PRESS OPINIONS. -1^- 

"' Bygone Derbyshire ' is a valuable and interesting contribution to 
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" The volume is pleasant reading of a most attractive county." — Daily 
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"A very interesting and welcome addition to the literature of Derby- 
shire. " — Derbyshire Courier. 

"Mr. Andrews is to be warmly complimented on the all-round 
excellence of his work, which forms a valuable addition to Derbyshire 
literature." — Alfreton Journal. 

" A valuable addition to any library." — Derbyshire Times. 

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By FREDERICK ROSS, F.R.H.S., 

Author of "Yorkshire Family Romance," "Legendary 
Yorkshire," etc. 



CONTENTS. 

The Walls and Gates — Episodes in the Annals of Cheapside — Bishops- 
gate Street Within and Without — Aldersgate Street and St. Martin's-le- 
Grand— Old Broad Street — Chaucer and the Tabard — The Priory of the 
Holy Trinity, Aldgate — Convent of the Sisters Minoresses of the Order 
of St. Clare, Aldgate — The Abbey of Sr. Mary of Graces, or East Minster 
— The Barons Fitzwalter of Baynard's Castle— Sir Nicholas Brember, 
Knight, Lord Mayor of London — An Olden Time Bishop of London : 
Robert de Braybrook — A Brave Old London Bishop : Fulco Basset — An 
Old London Diarist — Index. 

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" Pleasant gossip about the barristers' quarter." — Gentlewoman. 

" A very pleasant little volume," — Globe. 

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By FREDERICK ROSS, F.R.H.S. 



Confenf-s : — The Enchanted Cave —The Doomed City — The Worm of 
Nunnington — The Devil's Arrows— The Giant Road Maker of Mulgrave — 
The Virgin's Head of Halifax— The Dead Ann of St. Oswald the King— 
The Translation of St. Hilda— A Miracle of St. John— The Beatified 
Sisters — The Dragon of Wantley — The Miracles and Ghost of Watton — 
The Murdered Hermit of Eskdale— The Calverley Ghost- The Bewitched 
House of Wakefield. 

PRESS OPINIONS. 

Beverley Recorder says — " It is a work of lasting interest, and cannot 
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Driffield Observer says : — The history and the literature of our county 
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Contents : — The Synod of Streoneshalh — The Doomed Heir of Osmother- 
ley — St. Eadwine, The Royal Martyr— The Viceroy Siward — Phases in the 
Life of a Political Martyr— The Murderer's Bride— The Earldom of Wiltes 
— Blackfaced ClifTord— The Shepherd Lord— The Felons of Ilkley— The 
Ingilby Boar's Head— The Eland Tragedy — The Plumpton Marriage — The 
Topclitfe Insurrection — Burning of Cottingham Castle— The Alum Workers 
— The Maiden of Marblehead— Rise of the House of Phipps— The Traitor 
Governor of Hull. 

PRESS OPINIONS. 

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" Many will welcome this work." — Yortshire Pont. 

HULL AND YORK : A. BROWN & SONS. 
London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 



Kle(ja)itly honnd in do'h (jilf, (hmy Sro., /trire 6'.s-. 

yorkshire Battles. 

By EDWARD LAMPLOUGH. 

Contents: — Winwidfield, etc. — Battle of Stamford Bridt^e— After Stam- 
ford Bridge— Battle of the Standard — After the Battle of the Standard- 
Battle of Myton Meadows— Battle of Boroughbridge— Battle of Byland 
Abbey— In the Days of Edward III. and Richard II.— Battle of Bramham 
Moor— Battle of Sandal^Battle of Towton— lorkshire under the Tudors 
—Battle of Tadcaster— Battle of Leeds— Battle of Waketield— Battle of 
Adwalton Moor— Battle of Hull— Battle of Selby— Battle of Marston 
Moor — Battle of Brunnanburgh— Fight off Flamborough Head— Index. 
PRESS OPINIONS. 

" A remarkably handsome volume, typographically equal to the best 
productions of any European capital. "—A^'or^A British Daily Mail. 

" An important work."' — Becerley Independent. 

" Does great credit to the new firm of book publishers."' — Yorkshire 
County Magazine. 

" A beautifully printed volume.'' — Halifax Courier. 

Cloth, 4,s. 

Ljorkshire in Olden Times. 

Edited by WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S. 

Contents: — An Outline History of Yorkshire, by Thomas Frost — The 
Cow-Devil : A Legend of Craven, by William Brockie — The First Anglo- 
Saxon Poet, by John H Leggott, f.r.h.s — The Battle of Brunnanburgh, 
by Frederick Ross, f.e,.h.s — Old Customs of York, by George Benson — 
Elizabethan (Cleanings, by Aaron Watson— The Fight for the Hornsea 
Fishery, by T Tindall Wildridge — Folk Assemblies, by John Nicholson 
— Quaint Gleanings from the Parish Register-Chest of Kirkb}^ ^Vharfe, 
by the Rev Richard Wilton, im.a.— ^The Waketield Mysteries, by William 
Henry Hudson — A Biographical Romance, by William Andrews, f.r.h.s. 
— Some Scraps andShredsof Yorkshire Superstitions, by W Sydney, f;k.s. l. 
— The Salvation of Holderness, by Frederick Ross, f.r.h.s.— Yorkshire 
Fairs and Festivals, by Thomas Frost — James Xayler, the Mad Quaker 
who claimed to be the Messiah, by William Andrews, f.r.h.s — Duke 
Richard's Doom : A Legend of Sandal Castle, by Edward Lamplough — 
Obsolete Industries of the East Riding, by John Nicholson— Bolton 
Abbey : Its History and Legends, by Alfred Chamberlain, r.a. — To 
Bolton Abbey, by the Rev E (i Charleswortli. 
PRESS OPINION. 

"The work consists of a series of articles contributed by various 
authors, and it thus has the merit of bringing together much special 
knowledge fiom a great number of sources. It is an entertaining 
volume, full of interest for the general reader, as well as for the learned 
and curious." — Shields Daily Gazette. 



HULL AND ^ORK : A. BROWN & SONS. 
London : Simpkin, Marshall, Ha.milton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 



SECOND EDITION . Bound in clot h gilt, demy 8m>. 6s 

Cutmitm of f pe C^uvc^ : 

studies of Curious Customs, Services, and Records, 
By WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S., 

Author of "Historic Romance," "Famous Frosts and 
Frost Fairs," "Historic Yorkshire," etc. 



OONTE.NTS 



Early Religious Plays : being: the Story of the English Stage in 
its Church Cradle Days— The Caistor Gad-Whip Manorial 
Service— Strange Serpent Stories— Church Ales — Rush-Bearing 
— Fish in Lent — Concerning Doles — Church Scrambling Chari- 
ties — Briefs — Bells and Beacons for Travellers by Night — Hour 
Glasses in Churches — Chained Books in Churches — Funeral 
Effigies— Torchlight Burials— Simple Memorials of the Early 
Dead— The Romance of Parish Registers— Dog Whippers and 
Sluggard Wakers— Odd Items from Old Accounts— A carefully 
compiled Index. 

--® ILLUSTRATED. (^^ 



press ©pinions. 

" a volume both entertaining and instructive, throwing much light on the manners 
and customs of bygone generations of Churchmen, and will be read to-day with much 
interest." — Newbery House Magazine. 

"An extremely interesting volume." — North British Daily Mail. 

"A work of lasting interest." — Hull Examiner. 

" The reader will find much in this book to interest, instruct, and amuse." — Home 
Chimes. 

" We feel sure that many will feel grateful to Mr. Andrews for having produced such 
xn interesting book." — The Antiquary. 

" A volume of great research and striking interest." — The Bookbuyer (New York). 
" A valuable book." — Literary World {Boston, U.S.A.). 
" An admirable book." — Sheffield Independent. 

" An interesting, handsomely got up volume. . . , Mr. Andrews is always chatty 
and expert in making a paper on a dry subject exceedingly readable." — Newcastle Courant 

" Mr. William Andrews' new book, 'Curiosities of the Church,' adds another to the 
series by which he has done so much to popularise antiquarian studies. . . . The book, 
it should be added, has some quaint illustrations, and its rich matter is made available for 
reference by a full and ca.r«»fuUv comoiled index." — Scotsman. 



Hull and York : A. Brown and Sons. 
London : Simpkin, Marshall^ Hamilton, Kenty & Co., Ltd. 

X 



Elegantly bound in cloth gilt, demy 8uo., price 6s. 

Ofb C^urcp Sore. 

By WILLIAM ANDREWS, F.R.H.S., 

Author of Curiosities of the Church,'' '' Old- Time Punishments,'' 
^^ Historic Romance y' etc. 



conscTEiisrTs. 

The Right of Sanctuary— The Romance of Trial— A Fight 
between the Mayor of Hull and the Archbishop of 
York— Chapels on Bridges— Charter Horns— The Old 
English Sunday — The Easter Sepulchre — St. Paul's 
Cross— Cheapside Cross— The Biddenden Maids Charity 
—Plagues and Pestilences— A King Curing an Abbot 
of Indigestion— The Services and Customs of Royal 
Oak Day— Marrying in a White Sheet— Marrying under 
the Gallows— Kissing the Bride— Hot Ale at Weddings 
—Marrying Children — The Passing Bell — Concerning 
Coffins— The Curfew Bell— Curious Symbols of the Saints 
—Acrobats on Steeples— A carefully-prepared Index. 



--•• PRESS O P I N I O N S. -'^ 



*' A worthy work on a deeply interesting subject. . • . Wo 
commend this book strongly." — kuropean Mail. 

*' An interesting volume." — The Scotsman. 

•'Contains much that will interest and instruct." — Gla-<«jow 
Herald. 

" The author has produced a book which is at once entertaining 
and valuable, and which is also entitled to unstinted praise on the 
ground of its admirable printing and binding." — Shields Daily Gazelle. 

"Mr. Andrews' book does not contain a dull page. . . . 
Deserves to meet with a very warm welcome." — Yorkshire Post. 

"Mr. Andrews, in 'Old Church Lore,' makes the musty 
parchments and records he has consulted redolent with life and 
actuality, and has added to his works a most interesting volume, 
which, written in a light and easy narrative style, is anything but 
of the ' dry-as-dust ' order. The book is handsomely got up, being 
both bound and printed in an artistic fashion." — Northern J)ady 



Hull and York : A. Brown and Sons. 
London : Simphin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 



Pcap 4to. Bevelled boards, gilt tops. Price 48. 

famous jf ro8t8 anb jf rest ^alrs 
in (3reat Britain. 

Chronicled from the Earliest to the Present Time. 
By WILLIAM ANDREWS, f.r.h.s. 



This work furnishes a carefully prepared account of all the great Frosts 
occurring in this country from a.d. 134 to 1887. The numerous Frost 
Fairs on the Thames are fully described, and illustrated with quaint 
woodcuts, and several old ballads relating to the subject are reproduced. 
It is tastefully printed and elegantly bound. 

PRESS OPINIONS. 
" The work is thoroughly well written, it is careful in its facts, and may 
be pronounced exhaustive on the subject. Illustrations are given of 
several frost fairs on the Thames, and as a trustworthy record this volume 
should be in every good library. The usefulness of the work is much 
enhanced by a good index." — Public Opinion. 

" A very interesting volume,"— Northern Daily Telegraph. 

*' A great deal of curious and valuable information is contained in these 
pages. ... A comely volume." — Literary World. 

" The work from first to last is a most attractive one, and the arts alike 
of printer and binder have been brought into one to give it a pleasing 
form." — Wakefield Free Preas. 

" An interesting and valuable work." — West Middlesex Times. 

' ' Not likely to fail in interest. " — Manchester Guardian. 

" The book is beautifully got up." — Barnsley Independent. 

" This chronology has been a task demanding extensive research and 
considerable labour and patience, and Mr. Andrews is to be heartily con- 
gratulated on the result." — Derby Daily Gazette. 

" A volume of much interest and great importance." — Rotherham 
Advertiser. 

One hundred copies only printed for sale, and each copy numbered. 

^be Evolntion of Brama. 

By SIDNEY W. CLARKE. 

"A carefully written work. . . . It is a readable contribution to 
dramatic history." — The Critic. 

HULL AND YORK : A BROWN & SONS. 
London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 



Price 6s. Demy 8uo. Elegantly bound cloth gilt. 

(^ (Ulon^P in a ©anbi : 

A Woman's Wanderings in Northern India. 
By CHRISTINA S. BREMNER. 



Contents : — The Ascent from the Plains to the Hills — Kasauli and its 
Amusements — Theories on Heat — Simla, the Queen of the Hill Stations — 
Starting Alone for the Interior — In Bussahir State — The Religious Festival 
at Pangay — On Congress — On the Growing Poverty of India. 

PRESS OPINIONS. 

" The author of a ' Month in a Dandi ' has a facile pen, and is evidently 
a shrewd observer. Her book differs from many belonging to the same 
class by reason of its freshness, its spontaneity, and its abundance of 
interesting detail. Moreover, the book is written with a purpose. ' If by 
perusing these pages the reader obtains a clearer view of England's 
attitude to her great dependency, if his prepossessions against ' black 
men ' and the ' poor heathen ' should melt away in any degree, if the 
assumption that what is good for England must necessarily be so for 
India receives a slight shake, the writer will feel rewarded.' To these 
conclusions one is almost certain to come when the experiences of Miss 
Bremner's ' Month in a Dandi ' are recalled. There would be no end to 
our quotations were we to reproduce all the passages we have marked as 
being interesting. Miss Bremner is always in good spirits, and writes 
with ease, and evidently con amove." — Birmingham Daily Gazette. 

" Miss Bremner's book describes a woman's wanderings in Northern 
India, and it is written from adequate knowledge, with shrewd discern- 
ment, and a pleasing amount of vivacity." — Speaker. 

" ' A Month in a Dandi ' is full of instruction. It shows a great deal of 
ability and determination to express truths, even if they be unpalatable. 
The chapters on the vexed questions of Baboo culture and Indian 
Congress are well worth reading." — Manchester Guardian. 

" Miss Bremner's style is chastened, for the most part humorous, faithful 
to detail, and oftentimes polished to literary excellence. The earlier 
chapters are full of raciness and agreeable personality. — Htdl Daily Mail. 

" ' A Month in a Dandi ' describes the writer's wanderings in Northern 
India, following upon a shrewdly observant account of the seamy side of 
Anglo-Indian Society. The subject throughout is approached from a 
political economist's point of view. The chapter on the growing poverty 
of India sounds a warning note." — Gentlewoman. 

" The author of a ' Month in a Dandi ' is evidently a keen observer of 
men and things, and we know that her opinion is shared by many of our 
countrymen who have had a much larger experience of India and Indian 
affairs than herself. The book is full of the most exquisite word pictures, 
pictures that are full of light, beauty, and grace, but, unfortunately, some 
of them have more shade than we care to see ; but, doubtless. Miss 
Bremner's treatment is correct and life-like." — Hull Daily News. 

HULL AND YORK : A BROWN d SONS. 
London : Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent, & Co., Ltd. 



THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
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WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
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OVERDUE. 



SEP 4 1944 



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