D 2DD7 D5Sb77D 5
California State Library
CR2j¥9
Accession No..
Call N<
^^Sa3-
N.l»-"\ ^*JU
\<\^V*t"<\
1 4-49*5M SPO
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2011 with funding from
California State Library Califa/LSTA Grant
http://www.archive.org/details/californian0607losa
CAUFOFMWA STATE LIBRARY
Mm
TYLED FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
V Ljdr:
*T<
J
AUGUST 1948
*°t>it UASTtgs
*4S.
CVA
v^
"*r
'**«
s
^
^
'k
* *>*
f^,
c^
*-
*o ' *.
*>-
'*+
Su
\
we're campus bound
. . in the most Parisian suit this
side of the Atlantic . . .with a short
ittle jacket... a long pointed
collar. In gray or brown Dan
Worn by Betty Stauffer, U. C. L. A. Junior
Ljay,
River rayon stripes. 9 to 15. 15.95
Campus Shop
CO LOS ANGELES
THE CAN FORNI AN, August, 1948
campus leaders wear
FASHION ACCESSORIES AT A PRICE SCALED FOR CAMPUS
BUDGETS. THESE EXQUISITE MATCHING BELTS AND BAGS
AVAILABLE IN NATURAL, TAN BARK, STALLION BLACK.
TANNER'S STATEMENT
Our trademark shown below is registered in the
United States Patent Office. We have licensed GAN-
SON MANUFACTURING COMPANY to use it on or
in connection with handbags manufactured by them
from our leather and PHIL SOCKETT MANUFACTUR-
ING COMPANY to use it on or in connection with
belts manufactured by them from our leather. Its use
is your assurance of receiving the genuine and origi-
nal California Saddle Leather produced exclusively.
j at out tannery located in Santa Cruz, California.
A. K. Salz Company.
AUTHENTIC C A L I
la Better Stores Everywhere
For Name of Your Nearest Store Write to
GANSON, handbags
1 82 Second Street, Dept. C, San Francisco, Calif.
PHIL SOCKETT, ^Its since 192^
1240 South Main Street, Dept. B, Los Angeles, Calif.
I A SADDLE LEATHER
Vol. VI
No. I
THE CALIFOF.NIAN ts published monthly by The Caltfornlan, Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles, 15, Calif., printed In U. S. A. Yearly subscription August
price S3. 00. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office. Los Angeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3. 1879. 1948
s
/
_•
iooV^
\\z $JiLr Lj'^
'/
V
OF IOWA
DES MOINES 6
HANDSPAN
' ' ■
A narrow strip of Stardust
over the wide kelly or
red belt. This Marion McCoy
Original is a "must"
dress for finding
the sunny side of
college or career life.
Wyner's figure-loving all
wool worsted jersey in
r
grey only. Sizes 9 to 15. *',"£
& m
■■ " ■
En w 'JrX
w
WW
w^^f
H
J \
H
'-.. ^Hj
-H
^r order by mall from
' :'%m
■I
w College and Career Shop
. 1 i
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
LA PAGE
of Hollywood
latest creation . . .
ROBIN
HOOD
Red-Green Trim
Green-Red Trim
White-Black Trim
Black-White Trim
Brown-White Trim
All White Lacing
Check or Sizes 4 to 8
Money Order.
No C.O.D.,
please.
This summer
you'll want
something
"different"
with your
new look.
795
TAX INCLUDED
-MAIL THIS COUPON TODAY—
to
LA PAGE OF HOLLYWOOD
5638 Lankershlm 111., N. Hollywood, Calif.
I'll.;,.. Bend me pairs ROBIN HOOD
Color
Size
Enclosed □
Money Order
a
Check
Name
Address
City
Slate -
MFG. TO YOU POSTPAID-
HOUSE OF MURPHY
for gourmets only
Fine food in an atmosphere
of convivial friendliness!
Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth
CR 5-0191
BR 2-3432
a ma mumm
The Time: 1847 . . when the United States and Mexico were forcibly arguing over
the possesssion of California.
The Place: The town of Monterey, captured by the Americans, who were convinced
that Mexican officers were being sheltered in the homes of the Cali-
fornians who lived there.
ONE CHARMING lady, in order to allay
the suspicion which surrounded her, in-
vited all the American officers and many
other guests to a fandango at her hacienda.
Such open-hearted hospitality disarmed
even the most suspicious of the American
officers. They danced and flirted the party
through, completely unaware that only a
few yards away from them was a man
they wanted . . snoozing peacefully, curled
up in the huge adobe oven which stood
near the cook house.
On another occasion the grapevine car-
ried the news that Chavez, one of the Mexican leaders, was hidden in the com-
munity. After several futile attempts to corner Senor Chavez, the Americans were
beginning to grow a bit hot under their collars. So, when a reliable report whis-
pered that the elusive Chavez was in a particular house, the American commanding
officer, under cover of night, surrounded the place, and with a couple of his officers
unceremoniously entered the front door. While they were apologizing for their
intrusion and explaining their errand, there was a quick scurrying in other parts
of the house. But the ladies who received them were calm and cordial. They
offered to do all they could to help find the "obnoxious Chavez;" and though of
course they knew nothing of his whereabouts, they lighted candles and led the
Americans through the whole house, lifting all the curtains and peeking in all
the nooks and closets to prove that they told the truth. It began to seem very obvious
that the officers were in the wrong.
Finally, the search led to a chamber where two beautiful young ladies lay in
bed, like sleeping angels with their dark tresses floating over the pillows. The
blushing officers tiptoed through a sketchy search of the room, then, in a flurry
of confusion and apologies, departed. At that in-
stant Senor Chavez gleefully appeared from
his hiding place between the angelic look-
ing young ladies who had jumped into bed for
the purpose of concealing him.
a true story by mar^aret chamberlin
THE CAM FORN I AN, August, 1948
Campus Charmer
A Western Fashions Authentic
designed by Jery Grinel . . .
two-piecer with button tab
shoulder and back dipping contour
belt. Sizes 10-18. Gray, Navy,
Fall Green, Dark Brown. In
Rayon Gabardine. $22.95.
\.
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
MAKE IT YOURSELF
No Experience Or Special Tools Needed
1 . Trace Pattern on Wood
2. Saw It Out
3. Put It Together
50c
Double Duty
Smoker
#57
25c
Spice and
Utensil Shelf
#63
FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
Works Just Like a Dress Pattern
SAVES MONEY TOO!
CLIP THIS COUPON
Add 3c to each item for handling and postage.
ILLUSTRATED ABOVE—
□ Spice and Utensil Shelf, #63— 25c
□ California Lawn Chair, §55 — 50c
□ Double Duty Smoker, #57 — 50c
ALSO AVAILABLE
□ Bel-Air Barbecue Dining Table and Benches,
#62— 75c
□ "Cobbler's Bench" Coffee Table, #60 — 35c
□ Beverly Hills Hanging Shelf, #67 — 30c
□ Wren (Bird) House, #71— 25c
□ Santa Barbara Bookcase, #77 — 35c
□ Child's Desk and Seat, #74 — 50c
Add 3c to each item for handling and postage.
Name „ -
Address
City-
MAIL TO: California Living Co.,
1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Artist David Hall re-creates the vivid scene and captures the pioneering spirit of a U. S. Cavalry
outpost in this sketch for "Fort Apache," an Argosy-RKO Radio picture now being exhibited.
NEW FILM TECHNIQUE BOON TO ARTISTS
XT ollywood's drive to slash film production costs has opened a creative vista to
scores of noted California artists. It is the technique of envisioning, long before
production, the scenes which will comprise each sequence of important new motion
pictures. The new approach . . art work even before film work has begun . . is
both an important artistic and economy measure.
Briefly, from the pages of a freshly completed script, the pre-production artist
is charged with creating scenes on paper which will capture the spirit and per-
sonality of the motion picture. From that re-creation, sometimes in oils, sometimes
in etchings, and frequently in fine charcoal work, the talented Hollywood director
can readily map his approach to a picture. He can toss out unnecessary material,
envision the positions of his personalities long before the cameras grind, and can
effect valuable savings in distant location journeys. Vital, too, is the fact art re-
search suggests excellent settings and unusual costumes.
One such artist, who recently contributed a portfolio of nearly 50 etchings to
the Argosy-RKO Radio production of "Fort Apache," is David Hall.
A 42-year-old native of Ireland by birth and California by adoption, Hall is a
master of capturing in any artistic media the spirit of a projected film. His paintings
and etchings for the historical drama, "Fort Apache," are re-created almost to the
letter in scenes which take place in the picture, which co-stars John Wayne, Henry
Fonda, Shirley Temple and Pedro Armendariz. It was filmed in the rocky south-
land settings near Chatsworth, California, and at Monument Valley, Utah, and
for his visual background. Hall traveled to the two location sites. He studied period
costumes of America's frontier days and read histories of United States Army
relations with the Indian frontier chief, Cochise. As it happened on "Fort Apache,"
the completed film was "in the can" before Hall began work from the script.
But the scenes he depicted so graphically, with only slight changes can be incorporated
into another film of frontier life.
He did a thorough series on an outdoor action film called "Mr. Joseph Young
of Africa." also for Argosy, and is at work on two more portfolios for films
scheduled for early release.
"Fort Apache," produced by John Ford and Merian C. Cooper and directed
by Mr. Ford, has been called the finest screen tribute yet accorded America's famed
frontier cavalry.
And in the Hall work for that picture . . the sweep and scope of border life,
the intimate detail of living in a remote U. S. outpost, the constant fear of the
Army wife for her fighting husband . . is reflected much of the spirit which has
won Ford high accolade.
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941
Buff urns
LONG BEACH 1, CALIFORNIA
Jewel neck blouse by Academy of California . . . handsome
full-sleeved complement to suits or topper for skirts. Made of
Burlington's rich "Sheer-Top"; self-covered buttons down the
back. Aqua, white, vibrant fuchsia, kelly, maize, black, beige,
brown and cocoa. Sizes 32 to 38. $5.95. Same blouse with
short sleeves, $4.95.
Ma/7 Orders, Accessory Shop, Street Floor
THE CAll FORN I AN , August, 1948
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
XMfts that bring sunny
\jalifornia to you!
INSPIRED ACCESSORY. . . beautifully executed
monogram lapel pin ... in 24-karat gold on
suede ... to repeat the glint of your new gold
sandals or belt. Choice of any initial. $1.50, in-
cludes Federal excise tax.
SPINNING ROPE. Any youngster can become a
champ with this trick spinning rope, leather
swivel handle-hold, stationary loop. Comes with
complete directions, wonderful toy. $1.00, post-
paid.
L. ... . -^M
TORSO GLASS. Your guests will love this ceramic
mug for highballs, beer. In the shape of a corset-
encased torso, and well developed, too. Can be
used for flowers, plants. Green, yellow, pink,
blue. $1.25, postpaid.
No. C.O.D.- — please. Send check or money order.
(Residents of California, please add 2J/2% sales
tax; 3% within Los Angeies.)
THE CORRAL SHOP
BOX 918 RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
MARBERT ORIGINAL
PICTURED ON PAGE 54
AT THESE STORES
The Marbert Original, pictured in natural color on
page 54, is available at the following stores;
ALABAMA: L. Hammel Dry Goods Co., Mobile.
ALASKA: B. M. Behrends Co., Juneau.
ARIZONA: N. Porter Co., Phoenix.
CALIFORNIA: Lerrain's, Tcift; Mkhele, San Francisco;
Lois Style Shoppe. 7u'are; renwith's. Inc., Santa
Barbara; Smart Shop, oqlincs; Mildred Moore, Bev-
erly Hills; Gladys Scott, san Diego; Motz Style
Shop, San Luis Obispo; Rene Fur Shop, Richmond;
Dixson's, San Carlos; DeAnn's Long Beach; Smith
and Lang, Stockton; The Swan Shop, San Diego;
Helen Carter, Carmel; Swendra's Fashion Shop,
Fresno; Wanda's Style Shop, Visalia; Livingston
Bros., San Francisco; Style Shop, El Centro; Escon-
dido Mercantile Co., Escondido; Bruce-Bob Hughes,
Ventura; Dolly Brigham, Oxnard; Miss Alameda
Shop, Oakland; Betty Block, Los Altos; W. R. Car-
rithers & Sons, Napa and Vallejo; Boretz-Glendale,
Glendale; F. C. Nash & Co., Pasadena; Hale Bros.,
San Jose; Valley Sport Shop, San Fernando; Pa-
tricia's, Santa Ana; Lundin-McBride, Palo Alto.
COLORADO: Daniels & Fisher, Denver; Zetto K. White-
head, Pueblo.
FLORIDA: Bertha Cooke, Tallahassee; Smith's, Panama
City.
GEORGIA: Leon Frohsin, Atlanta; Fine's, Savannah.
IDAHO: Grace's Dress Shop, Coeur D'Alene.
ILLINOIS: Charles A. Stevens & Co., Chicago; The
Rau Store, Chicago Heights; Linn-Scruggs, Decatur;
Ruth McCulIoch, Evanston.
INDIANA: H. P. Wasson & Co., Indianapolis; Kaiser's,
Evansville; D. B. Fishman's, Ft. Wayne.
IOWA: Wolf's, Des Moines.
KANSAS: Hinkel's, Wichita; Billie's, Topeka; The Stiefel
Stores Co., Salina; Pegues-Wright Dry Goods Co.,
Hutchinson.
Selman & Co.,
KENTUCKY:
Levy Bros.
and
H. P.
Louisville
MICHIGAN:
B. Siegel
&
Co.,
Detroit
MINNESOTA
Bruen's,
Duluth
MISSISSIPPI:
Bittar's,
Bi
oxi.
MISSOURI: Covin's, Springfield; Woolf
City; Son nenf eld's, St. Louis.
MONTANA: Boyington Gown Shoppe,
Shop, Great Falls.
NEBRASKA: The Aquila, Inc., Omaha,
Miller & Paine, Lincoln.
Butte;
Kansas
Classic
Ale's, Alliance;
W. Mer-
Mansfield.
BarMeld's
Lucerne's,
NEW MEXICO: The Guarantee, Santa Fe; W.
ritt, Roswell; Georjess, Las Cruces.
NEVADA: Ronzone's, Las Vegas.
OHIO: Donenfeld's, Dayton; Kay's Shoppe,
OKLAHOMA: Fashion Shop, Guymon; Mrs.
Shop, Bartlesville; Grace Shop, Nowata;
Ponca City.
OREGON: Hermanek's, Eugene; Adrienne's, Medford;
Long's Apparel, Klamath Falls; Miller's, Salem.
PENNSYLVANIA: Read Dress Shop, Erie.
RHODE ISLAND: Betty Rand, Providence.
TENNESSEE: Pauline Lewis, Nashville; Miller Bros.,
Chattanooga.
TEXAS: Farris Dress Shop, Palestine; Maison-Myro,
Galveston; Johnson Dress Shop, Fort Worth; Elinor's,
Sherman; The Vogue, San Antonio; Palais Royal,
Longview; Elwyn, Inc., Wichita Falls; Accessories
Shop, Amanllo; Nash Tucker's Shop, Odessa; The
Little Shop, Big Springs; Knobler's, Brownwood; W.
A. Holt, Co., Houston & Waco; Smartwear, Dallas.
VIRGINIA: Samuel Spigel, Roanoke.
WASHINGTON: Andrews, Tacoma; Brower's, Aberdeen.
Wrinkles
Destroy Loveliness
A FREE booklet sent in plain
wrapper tells you how the fa-
mous Kathryn Murray 5-
Minute Facial Exercises are
the easy, natural way to re-
gain young beauty. Simple exer-
cises stimulate circulation; help to
eliminate crow's feet, wrinkles,
double chin and to make face and
neck muscles firm. No straps! No
massages! Many women say they
look 10 years younger. Proved suc-
cessful by over 36,000 women since 1912.
SEND NO MONEY
Write today for your FREE BOOKLET. Only
a limited number on hand, so hurry. No obli-
gation— no salesman will call.
(CATHERINE MURRAY, INC.
Suite 1194 • 8 So. Michigan Ave.
Chicago 3, Illinois.
WANTED: Discriminating woman
wants smart looking sandals at rea-
sonable price ^f^^i3.
"STOP/^/W/"
For Dress ... or Siestawear
#417
GLEAMING
GOLD
7.95
#416
APPLE GREEN
5.95
A Superb Creation by TRINA
Available 3 to 9 in half sizes
N and M widths
momm$Wo
Redwood House
1422 NORTH HIGHLAND AVENUE
LOS ANGELES 28, CALIF.
RESTAURANT ROW
PALO ALTO, CALIFORNIA
10
"■ •""• :J
What's In A Name?
THE INDIANS AND THE SPANISH LED ALL OTHERS
IN LABELING THE WONDERS OF COLORFUL CALIFORNIA
\_>l alif ornia, with a rich historical background reaching back to the times of the
Spanish conquistadores, has a map sprinkled with fascinating names . . names that
present a kaleidoscopic tableau of its eventful and glamorous past. San Francisco,
Santa Barbara, Monterey, Calaveras, Yosemite, the Golden Gate, Death Valley,
Shasta, Siskiyou, Mono, Mohave, Coronado . . these are a few of the stars scin-
tillating in California's sky of names, and quite as picturesque as her scenic
panorama of majestic mountains, great deserts, lovely valleys and parks.
Many of them are obviously souvenirs of the Spanish days. Sacramento, the
capital city, is the Spanish word for "sacrament". It takes but little imagination
to discern behind the name the old padres and their missions. Named for old
missions are San Francisco, Santa Barbara, Santa Clara and San Bernardino. So
is San Luis Obispo, which in English means "Saint Louis, bishop". San Jose
bears the name of the patron saint of Mexico, and San Diego, Spain.
Los Angeles originally was "The City of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels,"
so named by General Portola. The General led a group of Spanish musketmen
and Franciscan fathers up the coast and chose the site as a good one for a city. His
judgment was excellent, but the name he gave it was too unwieldy for daily use,
and it has been abbreviated to Los Angeles, "the angels".
San Joaquin in Spanish signifies "whom Jehovah has appointed," and Mon-
terey is named for the Count of Monterey, onetime viceroy of Mexico. It translates
into "mountain of the king". Mono, name of a lake and a county, is the Spanish
word for "monkey". Coronado bears the name of a famous conquistadore, Francisco
de Coronado; Calaveras, the Spanish word for "skull," was so called on account
of the great number of skulls in the vicinity, supposed to be from an old Indian
battle; and Santa Monica was a Spanish saint.
DEAR OLD AUNT JANE
Palo means "timber" in the language of the conquistadores, hence Palo Alto,
"high timber", and Paso Robles becomes "the pass of the oak trees" when anglicized.
Those who cross the border into Old Mexico and go to Tia Juana have an excellent
reason, for they are paying a visit to "Aunt Jane".
Though the tongue of Cortez and Coronado seems to have corralled a lion's
share of California place names, the Indian tribes whose home it was at an even
earlier date have contributed many, some of the state's most famous among them.
Yosemite Park commemorates the name of one tribe, "uzumaiti" in the dialect of
the red man, being their word for the grizzly bear.
Shasta, Mohave, Tuolumne, and Ukiah . . a mountain, a desert, a river, and a
town . . each carries the name of a tribe. Ukiah is a corruption of "yokaia," the
meaning being given by one source as "lower valley," and by another as "strangers".
Tuolumne, a very familiar region to anyone who has read John Muir's books, stems
from the word "talmalamne," "group of wigwams," while Mohave came to its
present form in a fortunate abbreviation of the phrase "hamunkh-habi," signifying
"three hills".
Tahoe meant to the Indian "big water," certainly an appropriate term for this
large and lovely lake. Mark Twain's description of it in Roughing It is an American
classic. Pasadena, scene of the celebrated Tournament of Roses and the Rose Bowl
football game each New Year's Day, comes from an Indian word which, very aptly,
means "crown of the valley".
THE ROMAN TOUCH
Pomona honors the Roman goddess of fruit; and Anaheim is named for the
first white child born in the settlement, Anna Fischer . . "Anna" plus "heim," the
German word for home. The Muir Woods enshrine in sublime forest hall of
fame the name of John Muir, the naturalist-writer who loved the California
mountains so deeply, while San Francisco's magnificent bay looked like the Golden
Gate to Jessie Benton Fremont, who saw it when the setting sun shone with telling
effect on the water and nearby cliffs and hills.
Most interesting of all perhaps, is the name California itself, which apparently
is also a memento from the Spaniards. Cortez discovered the region in 1535 and
named it California. Twenty-five years earlier, however, the name appeared with
exactly the same spelling in a book titled "Las Sergas de Esplandian", and written
by Garcia de Montalvo. The passage from Montalvo's romance follows: "Know
that, on the right hand of the Indies, there is an island called California, very
near to the Terrestrial Paradise, which was peopled with black women without
any men among them, because they were accustomed to live after the fashion of
Amazons." It is possible that the early Spanish explorers, having read the book,
believed they had arrived at the "island called California."
Some authorities believe that it stems from the Spanish word "califa," which in
turn descends from the Arabic "khalifah," and means "successor." Still others
suggest the name may have come from the Indian words "kali forno," a phrase used
by the Baja California aborigines to mean their "native land."
Whichever . . it's a wonderful place to live!
THE CALIFORNIAN'S
special publication of
DRESSING 1IY DESIGN
is just off the press
and ready for mailing
Write For Your Copy Today!
• Dressing by Design is a famous fashion
designer's notebook . . . it's a coordinated
collection of 10 important fashion articles
by Florence Shuman, beautifully reprinted
from The Californian Articles that tell you
simply, and graphically, how to dress to your
personality, how to play down your figure
faults, how to play up your good points, how
to appear constantly as a well-dressed, appro-
priately dressed woman . . . regardless of
your budget. Dressing by Design can do
things for you!
• It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll
cherish . . . for only 50 cents. It's a digested
course in design for dressing that could cost
you ever so much more. So reasonable, it's
a wonderful gift for others as well.
Write For Your Copy Today!
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid
by us to
(ALirORNIAN
1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
To: The Californian, 1020 S
Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of
DRESSING BY DESIGN
Main St.,
to:
(Name)
(Address)
Enclosed
(City, Zone and State)
is payment for Q copies.
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
11
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
\jifts in the
Xjalifornia manner
IRONING BOARD PLANTER. The most novel
planter you've ever seen. Copper vessel set in
miniature maple-finish ironing board, 9 long.
Complete with tiny brass iron and intricately
wrought trivet. $3.95 postpaid.
WESTERN MATCHES. Box of 50 match packages,
attractively wrapped in cellophane. The perfect
touch for your barbecue dinners, because each
package is adorned with a bucking horse, sur-
rounded by the imprinted brands of all the fa-
mous Western ranches. $1.25 postpaid.
ASH TRAY. Gay ceramic ash tray in the figure
of a frolicking fish, executed in blended sea
colors. A wonderful California touch for your
beach home, your patio, wherever you want
color and fun. $1.50 postpaid.
NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money or-
der. (Residents of California, please add 2Yz%
sales tax; 3% if in Los Angeles.)
THE CORRAL SHOP
SOX 918 RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
MONOGRAM-A-DANGLE . . . this chunky,
gold-finished link bracelet ... a clever nov-
elty to give a friend, or have for your own.
Jiffy arrangement for interchangeable initials
makes it possible to fill orders promptly . . .
simply print desired monogram clearly when
ordering. $1.00 plus 20% luxury tax; 2V2%
sales tax if in California. At leading stores in-
cluding May Co., Los Angeles; L. Hart, San
Jose; Weill's, Bakersfield; Marston's, San
Diego; Harris Co., San Bernardino. If not in
your vicinity, write Biltmore Accessories, 846
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California.
TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly
appropriate for most any summertime occa-
sion. Extra good fit assured with adjustable
straps that smartly buckle for added fashion
interest. In cloud-white only, in the softest
elkskin . . . this easy-to-clean footgear is a
wise choice, indeed. Nicely priced at $5.95.
Please add 15c postage, and 2l/2% sales tax
if in California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send
your order to Bernadette's Shop, Box 372,
Balboa Island, California.
QUAINTLY QUILTED . . . yes, the buckle
is actually quilted in this newer than new
version of what to wear around your middle.
This belt, about 2y2" wide and made of the
finest gold kidskin . . . wears well with tweeds
and silks alike. Comes in sizes 24 to 32, and
costs approximately $3.50 at leading stores
across the country. If not available at your
favorite store, write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co.,
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main Street, Los An-
geles, California.
YOUR NAME ... the clock in your hose.
From Hollywood comes the latest and most
sensational in hosiery . . . your name in em-
broidered lettering forms the clock on these
beautifully sheer hose. With or without seams
... 54 gauge ... 15 or 20 denier. Selection
of the best shades including gunmetal, buster
brown, red fox, navy, black, and spectrum
colors. Sizes 8 to 11. Made to order with
any name. About $5.00 a pair, May Co. Wil-
shire, Los Angeles, and others. Willys of
Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 28,
California.
A JEWEL BOX . . . that's beautiful, safe,
and designed by William Tory, famous crea-
tor, to last a lifetime! Genuine leather in
lizard or alligator grain smoothed over a
frame of pure aluminum for greater strength,
for harder wear. Solid brass and caps with
satiny finish add extra elegance. Box lined
with rayon velvet, equipped with self-rising
tray, and solid brass set-in lock with key.
A smart accessory for your luggage ... a
wonderful gift. Just $7.95, postpaid, Fred L.
Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
12
THE CAtlFORNIAN, August, 1948
— «m%V
GREEN-LEAF COASTERS . . . nature's
own color and design to blend with any decor
. . . purposeful and pretty for occasional
tables or your festive board. Made of finest
quality synthetic rubber, impervious to heat,
cold, alcohol . . . washable and fade-proof.
A practical, permanent and gay decoration for
your home. The set of eight, attractively
boxed, $2.95. Orders are filled promptly by
Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills,
California. Please add 21/2% sales tax if in
California.
WAIST WHITTLING WITCHERY . . .
is the magic achieved by this stunning wide
front belt. This latest styling, from our col-
lection of originals, features an intricate bas-
ket weave design executed in the finest of
leathers . . . imported kidskin, lined with
cowhide. Available in glittering 24-karat gold,
jet black, brown, navy, light blue, pink or
white kid, or any of the foregoing combined
with gold. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. The price,
J7.95. W-R Originals, 7515 Second Avenue,
North Bergen, New Jersey.
THE BUTTERER ... the smart new way to
butter corn on the cob! No more butter slid-
ing off the knife. Just scoop up butter with
this concave, slotted spoon and brush over the
car of corn. It melts and soaks into the corn
evenly and economically. Can also be used
for hot rolls, pancakes, potatoes. Set of 8
silverplated butterers in gift box, $5.00 pre-
paid. No C.O.D.'s, please. Florence Lloyd, 900
Main Street, Racine, Wisconsin.
SMALL WONDER . . . here's something
to grace the dinner table of any home-proud
hostess ... an adorable miniature chafing
dish. It's of solid copper and brass, and com-
plete in every detail, including a heating unit
that burns alcohol, just like a full-sized chafer.
It makes a stunning centerpiece, and you can
actually put it to work, keeping melted but-
ter or cheese sauce hot throughout the meal.
$5.95 postpaid. Order directly from the Corral
Shop, Box 918, Rancho Santa Fe, California.
SNACK SOMBRERO . . . this handsome
hors d'eouvre tray answers the demands of
the most discriminating hostess. Made of
highly polished natural birchwood edged with
glistening aluminum in attractive scroll pat-
tern. Wood is especially treated with acid
and moisture-proof lacquer. The revolving
center bowl is removable to add to the tray's
many uses. An excellent gift designed for
patio or drawing room entertaining. Size is
12" in diameter. Price is just $5.95. Please
add 25c for postage and handling, if in
California add 21/4% sales tax. Bernadette's
Shop, Box 372, Balboa Island, California.
"Ballade
duet"
New cross-strap featherwedge
sandal with matching bag,
perfect harmony for your
new fall costume. Suede or
calf, in rich autumn shades.
Shoes, sizes 3 to 10 in all
widths. To retail about $10.95.
Bag, to retail about $12.95.
Write us- for nearest store.
FEATHERWEDGE
Vic doLton. SHOeOlPG.-
3665 Whittier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941
13
OW TO SAVE TIME
WHEN FRIENDS ARRIVE serve them
quickly and easily with HOSTESS
PALETTES . . neat little individual
serving trays designed from an artist's
palette . . made of unbreakable plastic
a damp cloth cleans them bright
as new.
AT PARTIES AND PICNICS no need
to rush out and buy expensive and im-
practical party favors. Let your guests
keep their individual HOSTESS PAL-
ETTES and watch the fun — I have.
Remember HOSTESS PALETTES are
sold in sets of four trays. Red, amber,
blue, green, and cream-ivory are the five
colors available, so be sure to specify the
colors you want. Set of four trays $2.00
postpaid. Sent C.O.D. plus . postage.
Order now.
EDMUND B. HARRIS
"GIFTS OF CHARACTER"
366 Madison Ave., New York 17, N. Y.
NEW ALL PURPOSE
HEAVY DUTY LIGHTER
Sturdy 4" flame for
lighting. Ideal for
indoor and out-
door fireplaces,
barbecues,
Large
Fuel
Capacity
Safe, eco-
nomical, easy
to operate. 4 large
wicks instantly ignite!
Ruby, emerald, gold, black or sapphire.
State color preference.
12", $5.50 postpaid; 24", S5.95 post-
paid; 30", S6.50 postpaid. No C.O.D. 's.
THE FISCHELLE'S
8636 So. Dante Avenue
Chicago 19, III.
'Playtime" Sandals for Your Comfort
These comfortable, stylish Play-
time sandals will make your leisure
hours far more enjoyable. They
are double-stitched for longer wear
and for lighter weight. They have
a steel arch support for added com-
fort and real foot protection. Now
available in beautiful Turf Tan
Brown leather and come in Wom-
en's sizes from 3^ to 9. $5.50
with postage paid. Order by mail
directly from the Playtime Sandal
Shop, Clayton 5, Missouri.
OF INTEREST IN CALIFORNIA IN AUGUST
fiestas and flowers are treats for the tourist
Comes the summer month of August when the nights are cool in California
. . when you reach for a blanket to snooze . . when you spend days and nights
in a variety of wonderful activity. You'll find water sports, horse racing, fine
theatre, beautiful flowers, pageants, festivals, even football, too! Use The
Californian as your tourist and shopping guide . . come West!
ZINNIAS BLOOM— In El Monte, near
Los Angeles, zinnias bloom by the hun-
dreds of acres.
DRAMA FESTIVAL— Favorite Plays
of the Gold Rush Days at the Pasadena
Community Playhouse until August 24.
Evenings, except Monday. Saturday
matinees. 76c to $2.
PILGRIMAGE PLAY — The famous
portrayal of the life of Christ in the
natural amphitheatre in the Hollywood
Hills. Well worth seeing. Nightly at 8.
SYMPHONIES UNDER THE STARS
— At Hollywood Bowl until September
4 with stars of movies, radio and the
music world.
HORSE RACING— At Del Mar,
"where the turf meets the surf," near
San Diego. Daily at 1 p.m., except Sun-
day and Monday.
FLOWER SHOW— In Long Beach Au-
gust 3-11 in Municipal Auditorium.
SAN LUIS REY FIESTA — Days of
San Luis Rey August 6-8 at Ocean-
side, near 150-year-old Mission San
Luis Rey. Fiesta and western celebra-
tion.
FIESTA RANCHERA— August 14-15
in Santa Paula, with dancing, parade
and rodeo.
PORTOLA CELEBRATION — August
19-21 in Santa Barbara to replace the
annual fiesta. Celebration honors the
trek of Don Gaspar de Portola from
San Diego to Monterey in 1769, which
is re-created this year by a band of
noted horsemen.
FIESTA DE LA LUNA— August 19-21
in Chula Vista. Three-day program in-
cludes parade, beauty contest.
PEACH FESTIVAL— In Yucaipa Val-
ley August 20-22. Peaches, plums and
cherries are exhibited with prize-win-
ning poultry and livestock. Horse
show, square dances, carnival and
peach-picking contests.
RAMONA FESTIVAL — At Ramona
August 21-22 in the heart of San Diego
County's back country. Barbecue,
parades, games and dancing..
FIESTA DE LAS FLORES— August
21-23 at La Mesa, near San Diego, with
exhibits of floral displays.
FAIR — Third Annual San Fernando
Valley Fair and Horse Show, August
27-29, at Roger Jessup Park near San
Fernando. $20,000 in prizes.
SPORTS JUBILEE— At National City
August 28 to include parade, horse
show, aquatic contests and decathlon
of sports.
FOOTBALL — Night of August 18 in
Rose Bowl, with Los Angeles Dons vs.
San Francisco Forty-Niners.
PAGEANT— "In Old San Gabriel"
August 20-September 8 at San Gabriel.
STARLIGHT OPERA— At Ford Bowl,
Balboa Park, San Diego, presented by
San Diego Civic Light Opera Asso-
ciation. 8:15 p.m. 50c to $2.50.
DAHLIA SHOW— August 7-8 in San
Diego, 3975 Utah Street. Free.
FOR HOLLYWOOD PREMIERE'S COORDINATES
Hollywood Premiere's bright coordinates, pic-
tured on pcge 37, are available at the fol-
lowing stores:
ALABAMA: Thelma's, Mobile; Wood & Dur-
ham, Ft. Payne; Judy's, Chickasaw; The
Smart Shop, Tuscaloosa.
ARIZONA: Goldring's, Phoenix.
ARKANSAS: La Vogue, Eldorado.
CALIFORNIA: Leidy's Casual Shop, Alameda;
Rankin Kreatz, Auburn; Martha Dean and
Young America, Beverly Hills; Vaughan's,
Bakersfield; Marion & Toni's Shop, Buena
Park; Townley's, Burbank; Bellflower Sport
Shop, Bellflower; Lorraine's, Big Bear;
Suzanne's, Bakersfield; Dorothy Style Shop,
Covina; Town & Country, Claremont; Polly
Apparel, Costa Mesa; People's Dept. Store,
Downey; The Vogue, Escondido; Miss &
Matron Shop, El Monte; Village Vanity,
Fairoaks; Kingsbury's, Fullerton; Bon Allure,
Grass Valley; The Fashion Shop, Glendale;
Ratcliffe's, Hanford; Cinderella Shop, Holt-
ville; Fashion Center, Livermore; Bobby
Sportswear, The Sport Bar, Elizabeth's
Style Shop, Baldwin Style Shop, Long
Beach; Gude's, Bullock's, Rosemary Shop,
Peggy's Hosiery Shoppe, Jekyll's, Los An-
geles; lller's. Inc., La Joila; Town 'n'
Surf, Laguna Beach; Van Dusen Dept.
Store, La Verne; Amber Style Shop, Lyn-
wood; Duncan & Scheid, Madera; Pat
Graham, Merced; Scan Ion's, Montrose,-
Modern Eve Shop, Martinez; Maywood Style
Shop, Maywood; Jane Davis, North Holly-
wood; Parker's Dress Shop and Van Dyk,
Oakland; The Charlotte Shop, Oxnard; Alma
Mae Smart Shoppe, Oildale; Rue's, Pasa-
dena; Lou's Style Shoppe, Rosemead; H. C.
Henshey Co., Santa Monica; Petersen's
Dress Shop, South Gate; Stockton Dry
Goods Co., Stockton; The California Woman
and Sportbar, San Diego; Hale Bros., Sacra-
mento; Conner's Blouse Shop, Willoh's,
Peggy Shoppe, San Francisco; Haftie
Bowers, San Leandro; Modern Eve, San
Rafael; Davenot's, San Bernardino; Mat-
ting ly's, Santa Ana; Lois Edwards, Tulare;
Bobbie's, Temple City; Coretta's, Tracy;
Peggy Jeanne's, Upland.
FLORIDA: Lillian Kilpatrick's, Panama City;
Town & Country Shop, Jacksonville.
GEORGIA: The Leader, Gainesville.
HAWAII: M. Mclnerny, Ltd., Honolulu.
IDAHO: Hat & Gown Shop, Blackfoot; Sandee's,
Caldwell; Meyer's Apparel, Idaho Falls;
Harvey's, Lewiston; Modern Deb Shoppe,
Pocatello.
ILLINOIS: Chas. Stevens, The Fair, Wieboldt
Stores, Inc., Chicago; Jan's, La Grange;
Mari Ann's, Libertyville,- Wood's Dept.
Store, Mount Carmel.
INDIANA: Florence 8. Marie, Anderson; Hoff-
man's, Evansville; D. B. Fishman and
House of Golden, Ft. Wayne; Robert's, Inc.,
Hammond; Suburban Sportswear, Indianap-
olis; Mary Woodbury, Newcastle; Temple's
Peru.
KANSAS: Betty's, lola; Mademoiselle, Inde-
pendence; Stevenson's, Manhattan; Stewart's
Shop Around the Corner, Salina; Billie's,
Topeka.
LOUISIANA: Minden Style Shop, Minden.
MICHIGAN: Kolbert's Dress Shop, Midland.
MISSOURI: Fashion Favors, Butler; Dean's Town
Shop, Columbia.
MONTANA: Aileen's, Bozeman and Billings;
Eliel's, Dillon.
NEVADA: Favinger's, Las Vegas.
NEW MEXICO: Georjess, Las Cruces.
OHIO: Robert's, Columbus.
OKLAHOMA: Field's, Inc., Tulsa.
OREGON: Hermanek's, Eugene; Tessman's,
Ontario.
SOUTH CAROLINA: The Dress Shop, Columbia;
McHugh's, Greer.
TENNESSEE: Cross Fashion, Chattanooga.
TEXAS: Buttrey's, Inc., Austin; White House,
Beaumont; W. C. Stripling Co., Ft. Worth;
Craig's, Houston; The Vogue, Lubbock;
Bone's, McCamey,- The Model Shop, Odessa;
Farris Dress Shop, Palestine; The Style
Shop, Plainview.
UTAH: Z.C.M.I. and Salt Lake Knit, Salt Lake
City.
WASHINGTON: Esther Marlon Shop, Ellensburg;
Vogue Dress Shop, Richard's, Terry Ave.
Gown 5hop, Mast's, Inc., Ruth's, The
Towne Shop, Seattle; Helen Davis, Tacoma.
WISCONSIN: Estelle Shop, Eagle River; W. J.
Rendall's, Madison.
WYOMING: Aileen's, Sheridan.
rfcTALCRATT
A SIGN OF OISIIHCI ION
Get one for your own
premises or as a gift
for a friend.
Made of weather-re-
sistant aluminum,
rich black finish.
Name up to 12 let-
ters on aluminum on
both sides. 16" wide
18" high, $18.50.
COPPER
LANTERN—
Black finish
to match
sign.
19"
high
$28.50.
22" high
$35.00.
10-ft.+x+"
post $4.50.
Prices j.o.b. Wheeling
fop Tree Calale&
HAGERSTROM METALCRAFT STUDIO
Original Handcrafted Specialties
Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, III.
ROSEMONT
VALANCES • CANOPIES • COVERLETS
QUILTS
Graceful lines and design enhance the beauty
of the exquisite Rosemont valances, canopies,
coverlets and quilts just like grandma used to
make. Handmade valances with the "Peacock
Tail" fringe are quite out of the ordinary used
with our muslin curtains with Early American
furniture. Hand-tied canopies. $25 to $35.
"Wild Rose" quilt, $50. Shipped by mail or
express collect. Write for booklet.
LAURA C. COPENHAVER
"Rosemont" Marion, Va.
A NEW LOW
in HIGH FASHION
JUST ONE OUNCE
to wear under
your casual and
formal clothes.
BO-PEEP
or White $4.50
Lace Trim
BAREST WHISPER
o!e£ $2.95
Sheer
Send hip
measurement
All orders
Postpaid
First Class Mail
No C.O.D. 's
Write for illus-
trated brochure.
Many cute ultra-
briefs for you!
PAMELA GAY SHOP
372 EAST FOSTER STREET
MELROSE 76, MASS.
OKiflHoma BORn • OKLOHomp outncD • OKLAHoma mnnnccD
john usm
A college classic with a "date" flavor ... in rayon gabardine highlighted by
a saucy peplum and dolman sleeves. Western Fashions Authentic, designed by
Jery Grinel. Sizes 10-18; gray, cocoa, navy, green. $25
OKLAHOMA CITY 2, OKLA. • MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED
16
THE CAM FORN I AN, August, 1948
JOLLEGE REQUIREMENT . . . two-piecer with a high fashion
rating, a Western Fashions Authentic designed by Jery Grinel.
Yoke-interest gabardine shirt in powder blue, navy and cocoa with
harmonizing striped tweed skirt. Sizes 10-16. $22.95
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
17
1 j in HOLLYWOOD
Sizes 4 to 9 Widths: Narrow, Medium, Large
Cocoa Brown Suede Only
Order by Mail .
Frank Amatuzio
6411 Hollywood Blvd., Suite 219
Hollywood 28, California
Sl7*»
WIHIh
AHHrftce
City
Check Enc
osed
a
7nn*» .Sfntp
Money Order □ C. O. D. Q
■iflssn-
from 71:30
oVten/v,.
LA CIENEGA BLVD.
1 Block north of Wilshire
BR. 2-2214
in tie Valley
VENTURA BLVD.
1 block west of Coldwater Canyon
ST. 7-1914
BOTH OPEN
WEEK
GIFT SUBSCRIPTION
Of The Californian to your friends is a
pleasant, constant reminder of your thought-
fulness. Only $3 a year. Subscribe todayl
California
In Books
by hazel alien pulling
PRACTICAL PSYCHIATRY EXPLAINED
U nderstand yourself is the keynote of
You and Psychiatry (Viking, 175 p. $2.50)
written by the noted psychiatrist William C.
Menninger in editorial collaboration with the
author of the popular Ferdinand the Bull,
Munro Leaf. Scientific and reliable, this ex-
planation of the inner compulsions of man
has all the worth of the authentic treatise
with none of its usual formidable qualities.
Here in graphic style, simple, clear and di-
rect, is the explanation of why we act as we
do, what drives us on, keeps us balanced,
helps us meet and cope with reality. Urges
and desires from childhood to old age are
placed in their normal setting with much de-
bunking of long established but erroneous
beliefs. Practical advice on how to get along
with others, how to rear your children, how
to make personal adjustments, and many
other subjects is given with factual informa-
tion on when psychiatric help is needed and
where it should be sought.
INNER AMERICA
America and Americans viewed- through
the eyes of California's Henry Miller is the
subject of The Air Conditioned Nightmare
(New Directions, 292 p. $3.00). In it a col-
lection of stories and essays combines to create
a travelogue of the author's cross-country
search for "inner America." Lately come from
ten years spent in art centers of Europe, and
an artist by nature, sensitive and perceptive,
Henry Miller throws into relief many facets
of American life that escape the casual and
habitual observer. From sophisticate to sim-
ple folk, from skyscraper to slum home, he
exposes both the zenith and the nadir of
American life. Implicit in his critique is an
irritation with our native hesitancy to accept
and applaud the new in life. Vitality of style
and freshness in point-of-view make this por-
trayal of the American way of life and thought
interesting and provoking.
INDIAN HISTORY
Westerners' perennial interest in their own
history will find a new outlet in Stanley
Vestal's Warpath and Council Fire (Random
House, 1948, 338 p. $3.50). It is an account
of "the plains Indians' struggle for survival
in war and diplomacy" that is, furthermore, a
study of the basic factors that underlie the
stress and strain of relations between nations.
The story of aggrandisement, personal and
public greed, lack of understanding, the cruel-
ty of man unto man, and how they once re-
sulted in forty years of war and resulting
chaos, has manifold implications for today's
seekers for world amity and unity.
JtfOHTSmEriS 1006(1
SUnset 1-6608
SUnset 2-9326
Excellent Cuisine
Luncheon
Dinner
Cocktails
Sensible Prices
FASHION SHOW LUNCHEONS
by Allordale Shop of Beverly-Wilshire Hotel
August 1 0 and 24. Phone for reservations.
12833 Ventura Boulevard
at Coldwater Canyon
North Hollywood
The
Ambassador
^-position
Table
IS THE SENSATION OF THE DAY!
AS A SCREENS
AS A COFFEE
OR COCKTAIL
■+ TABLE
AS A CARD
TABLE*
| A sure way to be a clever hostess . . saves
room and money, tool When guests arrive your
"screen" becomes an Ambassador bridge table.
After the game . . coffee? Cocktails? A half
turn of the knob lowers the Ambassador to
coffee or cocktail size. Ingenious! Party's over
. . and in a single motion your table is a screen
again . . out of the way. Sturdily built, the Am-
bassador table is only $17.95, postpaid, in
California. Add 2'/2% for tax. $18.95 outside
the state. And it's delivered to your door. Just
use the handy coupon belowl
rj The Ambassador table is padded and cov-
ered with the finest plastic. Three-quarter inch
plywood, tempered and painted aluminum legs.
Top 28 72 inches, height 28 inches for extra leg
room. Colors: Tan, Red or Brown.
FRED L. SEYMOUR CO.
Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
To: Fred L. Seymour Co.,
Box 1176,
Beverly Hills, California.
Please send my Ambassador Bridge Table to:
(Name)
(Address)
(City, Zone and State)
Check or Money Color
Order Enclosed Q Preference
18
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
&viee* (fod
BUSINESS EXECUTIVE . . . one of a
brilliant new collection of caree r=worthy
originals designed to assure your success.
Created in charcoal stripe menswear
by Dan River, in grey or brown.
Retails about 23. OO
0
d Premi
Loi Angeles i 5
*
ORIGINATOR OF OPTICAL ILLUSION IN FASHION
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
19
do you like to
• Helen Evans Brown, The Californian's
Food Stylist, has 5218 cook books!
• And almost every one, she says, has given
her ideas for her special publication of
CALIFORNIA COOKS
Wriie for Your Copy Today!
• More than 100 unusual California recipes
are consolidated on 40 beautifully printed
pages . . appetizing dishes that make cook-
ing and eating a real pleasure . . a big event
for you !
• The finest chefs of Hollywood and San
Francisco have contributed their favorite
recipes.
• CALIFORNIA COOKS is a treasure to
keep in your kitchen . . it suggests the proper
menu, the exciting dish . . at just the right
time. It's a practical and appreciated gift.
• A Two-Dollar Value in good eating for
only 50 cents!
Write for Your Copy Today!
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail with
50 cents for each copy, postage paid by us, to
tAUFOINIAN
1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, California
To: The Californian,
1020 S. Main Street,
Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of
CALIFORNIA COOKS
(Name)
(Address)
(City, Zone and State)
Enclosed is payment for Q copies.
S
owing Your Wild Oats
BY MARGO OSHEREISKO
Here is a recipe for a year-round harvest bouquet that will
reward your patience and last all winter. It is adaptable and
decorative for almost any part of your home . . living room,
library, patio, porch . . office, or school room. It is so simple
that anyone can arrange it. And it is especially lovely against
dark wood panelling or a colored wall surface . . highlighted
with a lamp. Or it is charming in front of a window where
the light filters through it or where the sunlight throws shadows
of it upon a wall or table.
Ingredients: One perfectly round flat bowl or container,
two or three inches deep . . a pottery casserole (as illustrated) ;
a wooden chopping bowl ; a copper, brass or bronze container.
or any round shallow bowl. Damp sand . . not too wet, not
dry . . packed firmly into the container. Fill it full.
333 wild oats . . or wheat or barley or rye or any one kind
of grass or weed that is available. How's your nearest empty
lot? A full well-rounded bouquet will take from 300 to 1000
wild oats. Don't cheat and your patience will be well re-
warded.
Proportion: Two to three. Length of wild oats equals three
times the radius of the container. (If the container is ten
inches wide the grasses should be fifteen inches long.)
Width of
Container
Length of
Wild Oats
DIAMETER 10
12
10
15
12
18
20
30
40 inches
60 inches
Cut all 333 of the wild oats exactly the same length.
Arrangement: Start in the middle of the container and stick the wild oats into
the wet sand just as close together as they can possibly be. Work toward the outside
edge. When you finish the arrangement should be perfectly round and so full that
you can't see the sand.
20
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948
21
*/mdpt
ifr
tim"
/^ Late afternoon
d*1
0'
The artistry of ANDREE GAY
in a Hess- Goldsmith tissue faille
, Lp 0-1 " Si?es 9*15, 10-18. To retail under
ffl^ $30.00.
jV*t June Bright - 35 national covers -
, I r Q a "ita LaRoy model.
1 ft 4 Dimensions: ht. 5-5, wt. 1 1 2, bust 34,
waist 23, hips 33.
^mt&ti ;'
vy
For store nearest you, write
407 (AST PICO BIV0 LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFOBNIA
<L (tft^taW- O'iftrly
On Record
with frances anderson
CAN THEY REALLY MAKE A LADY OUT OF JAZZ?
Every once in a while, somebody comes along who is determined
to make a lady out of jazz, usually via a concert in Carnegie Hall
and numerous press interviews calling attention to the hussy as repre-
sentative of true American folk music. And there are of course the
several contemporary composers using jazz idiom in serious symphonic
works.
Now to the ranks of Gershwin and Whiteman, the Duke and Eddie
Condon, we have a newcomer who takes himself and his music so
insistently seriously that it may be time to pause and consider. Stan
Kenton is his name, he had his Carnegie Hall show this winter and a
Hollywood Bowl concert this summer; further, in a new Capitol album
called "a presentation of progressive jazz," he expounds his musical
theories in somewhat stately terms, claiming that "jazz must grow
beyond the rigid disciplining of dance music."
What he and his composer-arranger Pete Ruggolo have done is to
exchange a "rigid" limitation of dance-beat for much more stringent
musical requirements. Their apparent intention is to utilize jazz instru-
mentation and mannerisms to evoke emotions beyond the usual range
of dance music. Actually, all the stock moods . . . melancholy, rhythmic
hysteria akin to eroticism, nostalgia and gaiety . . . exploited through
the years by every master from Bix to Benny are the plowland of the
"new" Kenton school.
The best of the album (notably "Lament," "Fugue for Rhythm" and
"Elegy for Alto") is interesting if not heavyweight modern music. The
worst of it ("Monotony" and "This Is My Theme") offers extremely self-
conscious stridency. Some listeners may even go along with my teen-
age critic friend who says scornfully: "Aw, he doesn't do a thing that
Billy Butterfield didn't do six months ago."
But you can't dismiss the possibility that jazz may after all be a
lady ... an important contribution to American culture.
We may be on safer ground if we pass along to unquestioned cultural
works of recent waxing:
NEW SERIOUS RECORDINGS
Brahms' Sonata No. 2 for cello and piano, sensitively and nobly
played by Piatigorsky and Ralph Berkowitz. This is fine, grand music
and the album rates a nod for mechanical excellence as well. Columbia.
Bach's Brandenburg Concerto No. 6, recorded by Koussevitzky and
the Boston Symphony, is the best job Koussevitzky has done on the
Brandenburg concertos. It is spirited and elegant, if not virile, as he
interprets it, and, of course impeccable technically. Victor.
POPULAR RECORDS
Peggy Lee says "Baby, Don't Be Mad At Me," and how could any-
body resent Peg? This is in her best coaxing vein. She pairs it with
the spritely "Caramba, It's The Samba," a fair-to-middling novelty
with good backing by Dave Barbour and the Brazilians. Capitol.
Johnny Moore's Three Blazers keep coming right along as an out-
standing small combo. Their latest: "You Better Change Your Way of
Lovin'," rowdy in a nice way; and "Friendless Blues," a smooth
atmospheric blending. Exclusive.
Ella Mae Morse, minus Freddy Slack, proves she still has the old
bounce in "Bombo B. Bailey," a pretty funny novelty, and "A Little
Further Down The Road a Piece," from her big smash of almost the
same name. Capitol.
Mabel Scott gets some solid backing for her rather stereotyped
variety of singing on "Elevator Boogie" and "Don't Cry Baby." This
isn't to say she isn't hep or lacking in personality, but she seems to
belong to a rather large club these days. Exclusive.
Gordon McRae registers a sockful of personality on "Steppin' Out
With My Baby," a gay carol; and sounds fairly swoony on "Evelyn,"
even though it's not a sensational ballad. Capitol.
We'll bet Johnny Mercer gets somebody mad at him with his some-
what irreverent version of "The First Baseball Game." He and the
Pied Pipers combine in typical but very likable manner on "Sweetie
Pie." Capitol.
The Dinning Sisters come up with a gooder in "The Last Thing I
Want Is Your Pity," a Gay 90's type novelty; and the rollicking "Bride
and Groom Polka." Their extra-close harmony is a pleasure. Capitol.
Herb Jeffreys revives "I Found A Million Dollar Baby" in his usual
smooth and resonant fashion; and intones "Estrellita" to less good
effect. Nice background by a trombone choir. Exclusive.
Frances Wayne is terrific, we keep saying. She puts heart and au-
thentic blues mood into "You Don't Know What Love Is" and "It
Might As Well Rain." Exclusive.
King Cole Trio, good as always, present "It's The Sentimental Thing
To Do" in a hushed but effective style; and the sage "Put 'em In A
Box, Tie 'em With a Ribbon." Capitol.
town
and
country
superbly casual Emmet leather creation
that goes everywhere. Roomy yet not bulky,
with convenient outer pocket for things you
want in a hurry. Top grain, polished cowhide
you'll be proud to own. In Red, Brown, Black,
Palomino, and Natural Saddle. Emmet bags
are perfectly constructed, unlined for longer
wear.
About $11.95
At better stores everywhere.
Write Dept. C8 for one nearest you.
&
CORPOBATIO
2837 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles 6, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948
23
rm JZUa
COLLEGE
NEWS!
Eyes will turn your way in
this Western Fashions Authentic
designed by Jery Grinel.
Two-piece scene stealer with
back-draped skirt.
Blouse of rayon gabardine
in navy, yellow and brown
with contrasting skirts in
all-wool clan plaids.
Sizes 10-16.
$25
MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED.
MH1IIN FASHIONS AUtHlNTlCS
(j OF CAIIFOINIA
FORT WORTH 1 , TEXAS
24
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941
if san francisco
does this beautifully-planned
tunic suit to wear to matinees
and cocktails and evenings
about town ... in fine-quality
gabardine or stunning men's wear
...romantic plush red,
cavalier green, weskit grey,
mascara brown and black
sizes 10 to 20 . . . about eighty dollars
at better stores
"of san francisco"
city of sophisticates and superlatives
of longest bridges and
suddenest hills, and fairest flowers
and smartest women.
HURRELL PHOTO-JOHN FREDERICS HAT
FOR NAME Of STORE NEAREST IO YOU WRITE LILLI ANN 973 MARKET STREET SAN fRANClSCO
BULLOCK'S, LOS ANGELES
CHARLES F. BERG, PORTLAND
>-
or for store nearest you.
Write
REGAL
PRESENTATIONS
BY
IT CALIFORNIA
IN FINE MENSWEAR
WORSTED SHARKSKINS
AND SHEEN GABARDINES
—SEVENTY-FIVE
DOLLARS AT BETTER
STORES EVERYWHERE
J^XiN Cj of California, In
C. 910 S. Broadway at Ninth, Los Angeles
26
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
Exquisitely designed gown with
lavish black lace applique
and a ruffled Carioca flounce.
Sizes 32-40 . . .
soft pastels, all with black lace.
o>BEMB£RG'"Rftyon yftRn
avoid $11.00 at rinet ilcteA
az wzile Chsc Lingerie Co., Inc. mc santee st.,los ahgeles 15, California a,
(* \JiMn,
THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948
27
CALIFORNIAN VERSION of the shirtwaist classic,
a Western Fashions Authentic designed by Jery Grinel.
In Raylaine Chiffon Flannel. Sizes 10-20.
Sand beige or gray with white pinstripes. $30.
Moil orders promptly filled.
ifX41.
INDIANAPOLIS
at the crossroads of America
28
THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948
Judy Mitchell
Beverly Lake
Joanne Kirkpatrick
Joanne McCormick
Betty Jo LeSIeur
Sonny Merrill
Kappa Kappa Gamma
Pi Beta Phi
Independent
Kappa Alpha Theta
Alpha Phi
UCLA
UCLA
use
UCLA
use
UCLA
use
Barbara Jeffries
Pi Beta Phi
UCLA
MEET OUR COLLEGE PANEL
The Californian's 1948 College Fashion Panel knows what college women prefer. Se-
lected from UCLA and USC, these co-eds are outstanding in their interest in fashion as
a career. We asked them what they liked and why, after a tour of California designing
rooms and workshops and a peek at the new fall collections. On the following pages
our college girls model clothes they feel are important for campus life . . . and for you!
'FOR THE CALIFORNIA WAY OF LIFE"
VOL. VI NO. 1
AUGUST 1948
CORRECT for college! You'll
double - check this gay plaid
fleece jacket with back pleat and
belt. By Koret of California. Sizes
10-16, about S17.95 at Bullock's,
Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago;
The Hecht Co., Washington, D.
C. Hat by Weyman Bros.
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
VICE PRESIDENT Herman Sonnabend
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER _ William J. Bowen
MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
COLLEGE PANEL EDITOR Edie Jones
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary
Alice Stiffler
Malcolm Steinlauf
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Frances Anderson
Alice Carey
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART -_ Morris Ovsey
Mary Ann Bringgold
John Grandjean
Ann Harris
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
MERCHANDISING Loise Abrahamson
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
PRODUCTION Daniel Saxon
California fashions
Trojan Tactics at USC . 30
Bruin Strategy at UCLA 32
Class Time 34
Campus Coordinates .. 36
Four-Part Formula . 38
Gridiron Classics 40
It's Date Time 42
Cram Session . 44
Jam Session 45
Contour on Campus 46
Your Perfect Suit . 53
A Classic Worth Your Study 54
Winter Cottons 62
Patterned For You 64
California fiction
The Dinosaur Fight at Wilshire & La Brea 52
California features
What is Fashion Made of? by Virginia Scallon 60
The Quality of Change 55
UCLA Serves the Public 56
USC Trains for Leadership 58
California living
When Four Rooms Seem Like Seven 48
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 66
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los 'Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager,
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Nedom L. Angier, Jr.,
Ill W. Jackson Blvd., WAbash 9705; Detroit Office, C. Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7; Seattle Office, J. Allen Mades, 209
Seneca, Eliott 5919. Subscription price: $3.00 one vear; $5.00 two^ years; $7.50 three
years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United States. 35c per
copv. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles,
California, under act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Repro-
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
Tommy Trojan, statue, and George Tirebiter, airedale
nascot, tirelessly uphold the fame of the
University of Southern California in the heart of
metropolitan Los Angeles. Founded in 1880, this
privately endowed school currently numbers 16,000.
Men of Troy are valiant warriors; have emerged
victorious in eight of ten Rose Bowl football games.
28th Street, fashionable Sorority Row, houses
daughters of many illustrious citizens of the West.
use
Campus-wonderful . . opposite page, left,
Saba of California's corduroy three-piecer,
skirt, vest and blouse, sizes 9 to 15.
Junior Miss of California corduroy wardrobe
wonders; jacket, about $13; skirt, about $8;
pedal pushers, about $6, with quilted yoke
blouse, about $8. Sizes 9-15. This page,
above, Madalyn Miller's rayon plaid that
looks and feels like wool. It's washable!
Sizes 9-17, 10-18, about $30. Right,
Marjorie Montgomery's gabardine suit with
sailor collar, 9-15, 10-18, about $24.
r 4 i # $ i fl
8
JAMES DUBOIS
II
1
\
HHH |
"Hail to the hills of Westwood" where 15,000
students attend the University of California at
Los Angeles ... in a beautiful residential tract
on the road to the sea. Truly democratic,
some Bruins are million-heirs, thousands are
self-supporting. Tuition is negligible, scholarship
high. Tracing its history to 1880, UCLA
currently is in the midst of a great academic
expansion. And Hilgard Avenue's luxurious
Sorority Row sets the fashion pace.
UCLA
Royce Hall, scene of Campus Theatre
productions launching many a career, is
favorite meeting spot. Left, rayon
gabardine jumper dress by Lanz of
California, 9 to 17, about $22.
Top right, belt interest on gabardine rain-
coat by Viola Dimmitt, 8 to 1 8, about
$50, at Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis.
Below, gold buttons on gunmetal Dan River
Dantone striped cotton, Alice of
California, 10 to 18, about $13,
at May Company, Los Angeles.
PARKER-REED
34
EARL SCOTT
class time
And these fashions are in a "class" by themselves . . opposite page,
Sonny chats with Dick Taylor while he admires her Lynn Lester
rayon gabardine classic. Sizes 1 0 to 18, about $25. Above, left,
Beverly shows off, but you won't have to . . you'll attract
all the attention in this Barney Max three-piece outfit. Botany
gabardine coat, about $60. Celanese crepe classic blouse, about $9.
Hoffman Woolen skirt, about $15. Sizes 10 to 20. Right, Betty Jo
chooses Hollywood Premiere's rayon gabardine suit, sizes
10 to 18, about $25. Stores listed on page 70.
35
EARL SCOTT
Koret of California conducts a whole class
of campus sportsters destined to rate straight
A with you. Down in front, smarty pants with
slit-back girdlwaist, sizes 10 to 18, about $7,
in-or-out shirt about $8, both of Dundee suit-
ing. Right, button-box skirt, sizes 10 to 18,
about $6; town and country jacket of red or
■^ green and white Plymouth plaid, sizes 10 to
18, about $15. Back, fleece mackinaw, about
$18; trim slacks with slit-back girdlwaist, sizes
1 0 to 20, about $7. Wondrous California
colors. Buy separately or as shown, at Bullock's,
Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago; The Hecht
Co., Washington, D. C.
See page 70 for additional stores.
campus coordinates
Pick a partner . . . for daytime, class or playtime, Hollywood Premiere's
bright coordinates were picked for honors by our college panel. Striped
100% wool jersey blouse, under $11, teams up with flared skirt or slim
skirt or slacks of fine British herringbone menswear gray, each about $11.
Seated, skirt and vest combination in gray, under $18. The Deering-
Milliken wool covert topper comes in red, green or blue, under $30, and
the matching vest is about $11. All in sizes 1 0 to 18 (slacks to 20) at
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Craig's, Houston; Chas. A. Steven's, Chicago;
Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. See page 70 for additional stores.
36
#>
kv
T-*\
L
JACK MUHS
four-part
formula
You won't need an algebraic equation to
figure this formula for wardrobe success! And thanks
to Tabak of California, it fits right info
your budget without benefit of slide rule! Dan River
rayon suiting in a nailhead pattern combines
with knitted rib trim for color accent and better fit.
Opposite page, left, pedal pushers, about $10;
vestee with rolled collar, about $11;
button-front skirt, about $11. This page,
one-piece dress with cardigan front, about $23.
Coordinated separates to mix or match, available at
Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis; A. Harris,
Dallas; and Roos Bros., San Francisco.
JAMES DUBOIS
gridiron classics
First team favorites . . for your personal triumph
at game time. Above, Ken Sutherland scores with young
hearts by blending Hoffman Woolens in Eton jacket,
plaid skirt, sizes 10 to 20. About $55. Haggarty's, Los
Angeles. Opposite page, left, a winning team by
Zolot of California, three-piece suit, sizes 1 0 to 16. Bolero
and skirt, about $30, jersey blouse about $9. May Co.,
Los Angeles. Center, handsome wool jersey with copper
buckle by Mitchell and Hoffman. Sizes 10 to 20, about $25.
Broadway, Los Angeles. Strictly "varsity" . . this polka
dot jersey, right. Contrasting apron is removable.
Lanz of California. Sizes 9 to 17. About $38.
40
41
\ \ \
\
42
it's date time
Major in extra-curricular activities with California's glamor-wise
date bait! Opposite page, left, Barbara wears Andree Gay's sleek
black satin, pink blouse. Sizes 8 to 1 6, 7 to 17, under $30.
Center, Eleanor in rustling taffeta, Francine Frocks, 7 to 17,
about $30. Weyman hat. Right, Sonny in two-piece crepe dress by
Linsk of California, 9 to 15, about $20. Weyman hat. Below, any
man would wait for Betty Jo in chiffon redingote and moire taffeta
strapless dress by Glamour Time, 1 0 to 16, about $50.
Stores listed on page 70.
EARL SCOTT
PARKER-REED
cram sessi o n
Kitten-soft fashions for the cozy hours . . Beverly, left, in deep-ruffled
half slip, sizes 24 to 30, about $5. Barbara relaxes in shortie nightie, pastel
embroidered. Small, medium, large, about $7. Chic Lingerie, Bates broadcloth.
H. C. Capwell Co., Oakland; Emporium, San Francisco; Nancy's, Hollywood.
44
Foamy white net and scarlet
taffeta formal turns Judy into a
cloud of loveliness. Emma Domb.
Sizes 10 to 16, 9 to 15, under
$45. Younkers, Des Moines
White House, San Francisco
Franklin Simon, New York
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles
jam session
PARKER-REED
Sorcery in royal blue velvet!
Beverly wears Cole of California's
strapless, backless creation.
Small, medium, large. About $59.
A?
\
' )
fM^^' ■
^ » 4
-?»«v
^.i' V
\ ,'(
fW******^
Freedom and litheness
for women with youthful
figures are these California
foundations! Opposite
page, above, matching bra and
garter belt of quilted satin
by Anne Alt. Center, leno
and satin girdle by
Damsel of Hollywood. Below,
nylon marquisette and scalloped
eyelet bra and garter belt.
Hollywood-Maxwell. This page
above, Mam'zelle's "Suzanne"
bra with plastic undercup support.
Below, strapless bra for low cut
gowns and lightweight girdle of
power net, both by
Helene of Hollywood.
When Four Rooms Seem Like Seven
by donald a. carlson
A shadow box
effect is result
of extending
side walls and
roof to the front
HIS IS THE MONTH you're re-
laxing, basking at the beach . . or
wish you were . . and this is the
California house for you!
A beach house? Yes, but it
needn't be. You could build it in
the mountains, on the lake, or
right in the middle of your own
home town. It's contemporary,
comfortable, and the personifica-
tion of the luxurious, casual Cali-
fornia Way of Life. It will house
your family and your week-end
friends in a style to which you'd
like to be accustomed. And it isn't too expensive
to contemplate.
Welton Becket, architect and interior designer,
built it for himself . . on the shore of the blue
Pacific at famous Malibu Beach . . with no con-
flicting customer opinions of what he wanted to
design. Primarily of California redwood. Roman
ruffle brick and clear glass, its four principal
rooms, garage and terraces roomily provide for
a family of four, a maid or additional guest, and
the overnighters who might choose the living room
alcove. It's called the Shadow Box House because
its two side walls extend with the roof over the
windows out front, forming a shadow box effect
toward a beautiful ocean view.
Today's problem of space versus cost versus need
was confronted realistically when Fay and Welton
Becket decided on a plan. Aiming for the spa-
ciousness of a rambling structure and the com-
pactness necessary for quick and easy cleaning,
they combined the living room, dining room,
kitchen and guest sleeping arrangements in one
large living area. And in this house, where fur-
niture groupings are so important to its livability,
the Beckets provided a semi-circular sofa to frame
the living room in front of the brick fireplace,
with an attractive alcove at right to be comfort-
able couch by day and sleeping room at night.
Waldex combed-wood walls, Douglas fir ceiling,
and birch doors and trim enhance the natural ap-
pearance of the Philippine furnishings.
The bar-kitchen to the right of the entrance isn't
like the customary kitchen where mother is shut
off in a baked-enamel den. Mrs. Becket can feel
"right at home and one of the party" when she's
preparing a meal. Her kitchen cabinets are of
Semi-circular sofa frames living room area opposite alcove guest quarters
Glassed wall and terrace extend toward ocean to provide unique dining nook
INTERESTING FLOOR PLAN IS COMPACT . . . UTILITARIAN
HALL
_£X
"^7"
/
■£
— L_
O
UJ
t e <\iv ac r
Front of house reveals facility for maximum view and sun . . inset above are the boys' bunk beds
the welton beckets' house at
famed malibu beach was designed
for comfort, beauty and
minimum upkeep . . you can
build it anywhere . . you can
live like californians do
OCEAN
A LITTLE HOUSE WITH BIG IDEAS FOR COMFORT AND GOOD LIVING
birch and her brick barbecue is complete with
spit. General Electric dishwasher, garbage dis-
posal, sink, range and refrigerator are the utili-
tarian pieces, and all-electric. Rubber tile covers
the floor, and formica provides a smooth working
surface for the bar top and kitchen sink area. It's
a handy kitchen and everything is within easy
reach.
A simple dining table and bamboo chairs op-
posite the kitchen are compact in their space, and
conventional.
Before you wander down the hallway connect-
ing the major living area with the three bedrooms
and bath, you are intrigued with the storage pan-
try adjacent to the kitchen. Something so neces-
sary in a small home . . so welcome in any. The
master bedroom and the children's room, equipped
with double-decker bunks, are on the ocean side,
the glass wall leading onto the shadow box porch.
Directly across from the main bedroom is the
guest or maid's room, and the bath. It is here, in
particular, that Becket has displayed a practical
originality. The bath and laundry are combined
. . an automatic washing machine is neatly tucked
into a corner . . to provide all the necessary fa-
cilities in one compact room. And at the end of
the hall is another beach entrance where an out-
side shower can wash the sand from the Beckets'
boys, Bruce, age 6, and Welton, age 4, before
they can "track up the house."
Everywhere there is a feeling of clean comfort,
of functional design, roominess and convenience.
The cement slab floors are easy to clean and to care
for, and project, when needed, an effortless thermo-
electric heat. When coolness is wanted on a hot
summer's day, the crushed tile roof helps reflect
the heat, keep the house susceptible to the ocean
breeze.
One of the unique features of Shadow Box is
the glass wall that extends from the house toward
the ocean, to abruptly curve and protect a private
beach and a roofed outdoor dining area that is
ideal for the noon-day snack. Here, Mrs. B can
knit or muse in the shade, yet keep a good eye
on the very active boys.
The Beckets had many of their unusual fur-
nishings before they had their house. And the
unusual design undoubtedly was planned to be com-
JULIUS SHULMAN
is
Outdoor dining is an added pleasure with this protected nook on the glassed terrace
All-electric kitchen and serving bar occupy one airy corner of the main living area
Welton and Bruce . . the Becket
boys . . thrive in the informal
summer living at Malibu Beach.
•>/
"I
V
View from kitchen corner shows easy access to beach . . modern fireplace of roman ruffle brick is focal point for the large living room . . dining table at left
patible with materials they had brought from the
Philippines. Two years before the war the Beckets
were living in Manila while the architect was
building a jai-a-lai stadium. It was this stadium
that became so famous during the siege . . one of
the very few buildings still standing when Mac-
Arthur entered and took it over for his headquarters
and hospital.
During their stay in the islands the Beckets had
made several trips to the head-hunter country of
the Igorots, bought most of the handwoven mate-
rials used throughout their new house, and re-
turned, too, with the hemp floor coverings and
much of the native bric-a-brac. Ornamental ash
trays and the handwoven bamboo shades were pro-
cured on another excursion to the China coast.
Stripped of the glamor of the orient and the
comfort of its furnishings, the Becket house still
is a practical, wonderful house for the average fam-
ily who would shun fancywork, period furniture,
the high, stiff collar . . and adopt young ideas. A
lot 53 feet by 86 feet is required if you wish to
include the terraces, the outdoor dining nook and
the long glass wall. Otherwise, 53 by 56 will do.
Many of the unusual furnishings were brought from the Philippines . . here are scenes in Igorot country
Overall there are 2,155 square feet of construc-
tion; 1.275 in the house, 700 in the terraces, and
180 for the garage. And the cost? $9.50 per square
foot, in California, would be ample. Furnishings
can be as modern as you wish.
There's a house for you. Think of it in free and
easy terms of good living, in practical comfort,
in the California Way of Life . . in your own
home town!
. home of headhunters
BY HAMMER SCHMIDT
^
The Dinosaur Fight At Wilshire And La Br
/
THE SNORTING forty-ton dinosaur that was seen waddling
about in Southern California recently is no myth. I saw him
with my own eyes as did my close friend, Doctor Oswald Ham-
pleton, leading paleontologist (a scientific tongue twister mean-
ing someone who likes to rummage about in ancient fossils).
The Doctor and I share a bachelor apartment near the Uni-
versity of Southern California where Oswald gives bi-weekly
lectures on the Mesozoic period dinosaurs. Daytimes, Oswald
and I sit across from each other at the microscope table down
at the Los Angeles City Museum. And, although the two of us
know more about bones than any dozen dogs in town, we are
by no means in the fossil stage of life ourselves.
In his early thirties, Oswald is a frail, preoccupied six feet
two, wearing Harold Lloyd spectacles and a shock of black hair
that can be combed only with a garden rake. We are both
fond of dancing and sweet-talking the opposite gender. In fact,
Oswald for years has been romancing Helen Dalton, a well
preserved instructress over at the University laboratories.
Helen is the nordic blonde type, possessing rare beauty of
face and definite Modern Age curves. Yearly Helen reads the
riot act to Oswald, "To be wed or not to be wed, that is the
question . . remember chum?" But a scientist who spends
months jig-saw puzzling the knee bone of a saber-toothed cat
is not one to rush into things hastily.
One recent summer night Oswald walked into our apartment
wearing a smog expression and three days' vegetation of beard.
It seemed three nights previously Miss Dalton had squared off
and informed Oswald she was marrying a man who hadn't
required six years to make up his mind. I was seated at my
typewriter tapping out a breezy little report concerning Fossil
Birds of the Pacific Coast when Oswald entered silently and
draped himself around the back of a chair in front of me.
His appearance was not unlike a Gymnogyps amplus in its
extreme molten stage. Oswald had reached the more repulsive
phase of Unrequited Love, the I'm-hunting-for-a-medium-size-
cliff-to-fling-myself-over phase. As he unwound himself from the
chair I noticed that he was carrying a fat leather briefcase.
Its closing zipper had jammed half way across, allowing a
bouquet of snarled paper to bloom out of the top.
"If I told you there were dinosaurs living close by
you believe me?" Oswald asked in a confidential voice.
"Certainly I would," I said reassuringly, "they're
as common around Southern California as tarantulas,
everyone knows that!"
"You're making fun of me!" Oswald said tragically,
"Even the Board of Supervisors down at the museum
advised me to take a week off when I told them
I saw one last night." Like the villain in Uncle
Tom's Cabin, Oswald slowly beckoned me with his
scrawny forefinger. "It's after midnight now . . .
he comes to the tar pits for watering about this
time."
"What comes?" I said, not liking the faraway
glaze in Oswald's eyes.
"The dinosaur I've been referring to," Oswald
said patiently.
"And I assume you are speaking of our old
Alma Mater," I said politely. "The famous as-
phalt pits on Wilshire Boulevard where
ancient Pleistocene monsters tossed their
bones after they got through prowling
around in them?" (Continued on page 69)
ild
PAUL PARRY
YOU'LL KNOW the minute you see it . . . it's your perfect suit for fall! With accessory touches, you have a symphony of color, blend-
ing autumn-rich tones with the magic of Irving Schechter's tailoring. Lovely Joan Leslie, star of Eagle-Lion's "Northwest Stampede,"
chooses Golden Brown in this soft gabardine suit; Leslie James hat, Parker gloves, Ganson bag. For store nearest you, see page 70.
53
A "CLASSIC" worth your study . . . here's c delightful lesson in misty loveliness . . . pale tones for fall. Your campus
basic, a Marbert Original, will turn heads . . . and, most likely, affect hearts, too! Cohama Del Mar wool, with pig-
skin belt and buttons. Agnes hat, Emmett bag, Parker gloves, California Moderns shoes. For nearest store, see page 10.
54
T\ A//"N CI^IDTQ P^~^D ^""^KJP- Rosenblum of California doubles the magic of his
I VV\-/ Ol\IKI O TWK WlNC wonderful suit classic . . . with two skirts! Wear
the kick-pleated one to match your faintly striped jacket, the plain fly-front type one to give you that new
two-tone look ... a wardrobe-stretcher of great distinction, sizes 10 to 20, about $50 complete at
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Roos Bros., San Francisco; Younkers, Des Moines; Carson's, Chicago.
55
UCLA
SERVES THE PUBLIC
The fastest -^rowin^ university
in America is spending 37 million
more for new buildings
Beautiful campus of U.C.L.A. is symbolized by twin towers of Royce Hall
E
Robert Gordon Sproul heads
the eight-campus university
d Nofziger, well-known cartoonist whose work now ap-
pears regularly in the Saturday Evening Post, The
American Magazine, This Week Magazine, PM, and
Liberty, first broke into print in 1936 with the follow-
ing cartoon:
A college yell leader standing in front of a rooting
section flailed his arms and urged his audience: "Come
on, gang, let's give it the old spell-out: U-N-I-V-E-R-
S-I-T-Y OF C-A-L-I-F-O-R-N-IA AT LOS A-N-
G-E-L-E-S. Whew!"
That brought a chuckle to many a Satevepost reader
and perhaps gave some of them an inkling of what the
letters U.C.L.A. stood for.
In the last 12 years, however, U.C.L.A. has needed no
cartoon to explain to easterners, midwesterners and even
some unenlightened westerners what the initials repre-
sent. Two other factors have spread its fame far and
wide: (1) The phenomenal growth of its student body
to approximately 15.000 students. (2) the academic and
intellectual achievements of its faculty members.
Dr. Clarence A. Dykstra is
resident provost of U.C.t.A.
Dean Paul Dodd directs the
studies for the big A. B.
56
Dean Robert Hodgson helps
the state's agriculturists
Dr. Stafford L. Warren will
head up new medical school
Dean David Jackey teaches
vital vocational training
Dr. Jakob Bjerknes he's
department of meteorol y
Since first established in 1919, U.C.L.A. has attracted
scholars, educators and scientists from many well-known
eastern universities. They saw in U.C.L.A. a chance to
grow with an up-and-coming school, unfettered by tra-
ditions and customs. The academic gold rush toward
U.C.L.A., since Dr. Clarence A. Dykstra, former presi-
dent of the University of Wisconsin, became provost in
1945, has been truly phenomenal.
It is natural to think of a large university such as
U.C.L.A. as a place where thousands of youngsters go
to receive an education. In addition, however, university
research and engineering programs provide an enor-
mous amount of public service to the taxpayers of the
state who pay its bills. The saving cannot be accurately
measured, but it is one of the state's best investments.
In agricultural and horticultural research alone, the
University of California has saved the farmers and or-
chardists millions of dollars each year in developing
new methods of harvesting, fighting insect pests, market-
ing the crops, etc. U.C.L.A., under the direction of Prof.
Robert W. Hodgson, is a world center for research in
(1) avocado and other subtropical fruits, and (2) orna-
mental horticulture, a growing industry in flower-loving
California.
The Bureau of Governmental Research, directed by
Dr. Frank Stewart, does much valuable work in the
field of municipal government . . including governmental
purchasing, fire protection, library services and public
personnel administration. Los Angeles and other Cali-
fornia cities have found such studies of great value.
Closely related to such research is the newly estab-
lished Institute of Industrial Relations which was set
up two years ago under a $100,000 grant by the Cali-
fornia Legislature to promote labor-management co-
operation. Director of the Los Angeles office is Edgar
L. Warren, former head of the U. S. Conciliation Service
in Washington, D. C. He supervises a program which
instructs young labor and management representatives
in industrial relations, conducts research on industrial
problems, and brings executives and union leaders to-
gether from time to time to discuss their differences.
Sometimes U.C.L.A. professors are sent abroad to help
foreign nations solve their problems. Dr. George Mc-
Bride of the department of geography recently repre-
sented the United States in arbitrating a boundary dis-
pute between Ecuador and Peru. Dr. Floyd F. Burchett
has served in Germany as an advisor on economic prob-
lems to U. S. Military Government. Dr. David Jackey,
now dean of the College of Applied Arts, spent several
months in Brazil setting up a program of vocational
education.
One of the most famous names in meteorology, the
science of weather forecasting, is that of U.C.L.A. 's Dr.
Jakob Bjerknes. Under his direction the department of
meterology is investigating wind currents, temperature
inversion and other atmospheric phenomena that help
produce Los Angeles' smog problems.
In chemistry, Dr. Max Dunn is becoming world-famous
for his research in the field of amino acids . . the build-
ing blocks of protein foods . . essential to good health
and well-being. Several years ago he organized the
Amino Acids Manufactures, a non-profit organization
which produces and supplies high-purity amino acids
to hospitals and research centers all over the world.
The department of physics carries on studies in many
different fields of physical sciences, from basic nuclear
physics to research in acoustics. Dr. Joseph Kaplan is
a world-recognized authority on the upper atmosphere
and serves as a consultant to the U. S. Air Forces. Re-
search in acoustics, under the direction of Dr. Vern
O. Knudsen and Dr. Norman A. Watson has resulted
in great practical benefits to the radio and motion picture
industries and in the development of precise methods
and instruments for testing impaired hearing and hear-
ing aids.
The original 37-inch cyclotron which first cracked the
atom has been moved to the Los Angeles campus from
Berkeley and is now reassembled. It is operated under
the direction of Drs. J. Reginald Richardson and Byron
H. Wright. With power boosted by the addition of a
frequency modulator, the cyclotron will be employed
in the study of high-frequency particles and in the pro-
duction of radioactive isotopes.
Research in radiation medicine will form an important
part of the medical program now being organized by
Dr. Stafford L. Warren, former medical chief of the
nation's wartime atomic energy program and dean of
the new medical school being built on the Los Angeles
campus. As contemplated by Dr. Warren and his as-
sociates, the new medical school and teaching hos-
pital will be one of the most progressive in the United
States. Facilities for the study of the basic biological
sciences and the new field of bio-engineering will be in-
corporated into the projected medical center.
Dr. Craig Taylor of the department of engineering
is one of the modern engineers already doing important
research in problems which combine engineering and
medicine. His high temperature studies on humans and
his research on artificial limbs are well known.
The guiding principle of Dr. Warren's plan of or-
ganization for the medical school is that by utilizing
existing hospital and clinical facilities a full teaching
program directed by experienced men will be ready
for the students the day the doors of the new school
are opened. With the assistance of a group of medical
educators who accompanied him from the University
of Rochester School of Medicine and Dentistry, and who
form the nucleus of the new faculty here, Dr. Warren
is rapidly assembling a clinical and research staff which
will be functioning long before the last brick is laid.
Important cancer research is being conducted at
U.C.L.A. by various members of the division of life
sciences. The work is coordinated by committees headed
by Dr. Albert W. Bellamy, divisional dean of life sci-
ences, and Dr. Vern O. Knudsen. Dr. Boris Krichesky,
associate professor of zoology, (Continued on page 68)
wh <&*
.' ' /
A
MW:
HV1
■■
■HTV
M
Joseph Kaplan directs
pper atmosphere studies
Dr. Vern O. Knudsen is an
authority on acoustics
Dr. A. J. Salle is leading
fight on infectious disease
Dean L. M. K. Boelter heads
the College of Engineering
Dean Edwin A. Lee teaches
teachers to teach children
57
Dr. Rufus B. von KleinSmid
Chancellor
use
Dr. Fred D. Fagg, Jr.
President
TRAINS FOR LEADERSHIP
Tt
hree miles from downtown Los Angeles by way of
papa's automobile or the Figueroa Street bus are grouped
twenty-six schools and colleges . . each an integral part
of a world-famous institution, the University of Southern
California, whose annual enrollment has swelled to 16,000,
and whose athletic teams have won more championships
than any other school in the West for the last twenty-five
years.
"Fight On For Old S.C. !" brings a surge of pride to
50,000 alumni of the privately endowed Methodist school.
Each year prospective students for the colleges of archi-
tecture, engineering, pharmacy, dentistry and law must
qualify for admission at least six months in advance. And
the tuition is high.
What makes the University of Southern California so
popular? What makes it great?
The sports editor will tell you that S.C.'s athletic promi-
nence over a period of many years has popularized the
school, lured students to the balmy Southern California
climate to cheer a winning team. The educator will tell
you that professional training offered in large variety . .
everything from aviation, cinematography, to international
relations, public administration and the study of Chinese
. . has been responsible for the school's wide acceptance,
its phenomenal growth. And overall, its students have main-
tained a spirit of friendliness that begins each term with
a week of "Hello and Smile."
Fourteen hundred faculty members are responsible for
the education of youth . . many of them are universally ac-
knowledged for their research. Dr. Irving Rehman and
Dr. Paul R. Patek have collaborated in the development
of an X-ray motion picture camera, and now, for the first
time, scientists are able to study interior actions of the
body that could not be detected with the fluoroscope. The
problem was one of synchronizing the impulse of the
X-ray to that of the 16mm movie camera; German and
English scientists had been working for years on the
project.
The camera's first application has been with the study
of the walking gait to perfect artificial limbs for war-
wounded veterans. The circulatory system and the heart
have been other worthy subjects of study, and by giving
the patient barium, for which film is sensitive, it is possible
to record complete processes of the digestive tracts. The
National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis also has
adopted the new method for research.
On campus is the largest centrifuge in the world. As
one of four developed by Army and Navy research cen-
ters during World War II, it was instrumental in con-
tributing to the development of the famed G-suit used by
pilots to prevent "blacking out" during battle. It consists
of a 46-foot beam with a cab at one end built to resemble
a pilot's control seat. The subject is whirled at varying
speeds up to 60 miles per hour in a few seconds. This
produces the same effect of throwing his circulatory system
off balance as does a quick dive or bank. Electrical graphs
of his blood circulation and sensitory system are made
during the revolutions for later study.
Many scientific projects at S. C. are of a secret nature.
The development of a jet engine with power to produce
speeds up to 2,000 miles an hour comes under the hush-
hush classification. However, it is admitted that some thirty
high-ranking Army officers are being sent to the school to
study the jet problem developments.
Another group is working on problems of Los Angeles
smog, so disconcerting to citizens and city engineers. Re-
search students have found a new method of distilling ocean
water and are attempting to make it practical for com-
mercial use. Dr. Charles Lombard and Herman Roth have
devised a new type of crash helmet to protect aviators
from head injuries. There's a long list of grants-in-aid
for research in cancer, infantile paralysis and nutrition.
Annually many thousands of dollars are set aside by oil,
chemical and other industrial firms for the development of
special projects. Dr. Emory S. Bogardus, as dean of the
graduate school, directs the selective work of more than
2000 students.
Dr. Catherine V. Beers is a zoologist who has contributed
Slavko Vorkapich is teacher
of cinema at the University
Dr. Andrew Hansen demon-
strates ocean water distillation
Dr. Catherine V. Beers has con-
tributed to studies of heredity
Infantile Paralysis Foundation
aids Dr. John Kessel's work
Dr. Emory Bogardus directs
2000 in the graduate school
materially to the study of heredity, concentrating on the
small fruit fly which reproduces several generations in a
few weeks. Her papers on the subject have been read at
scientific conferences in England and Sweden.
To Dr. Chester M. Van Atta, formerly in charge of four
research projects on atomic radiation at the University of
California, goes the distinction of heading the nuclear
physics research at S.C. Dr. Joseph Weckler, anthropolo-
gist selected by the National Research Council, recently
returned from Micronesia where he spent five months study-
ing hitherto unknown backgrounds of native tribes.
And because of his development of a process for cook-
ing and baking with clay utensils, Glen Lukens was com-
missioned by the government of Haiti to spend a year
teaching the natives how to make such wares. The process
is simple in its proper mixture of earth and ingredients;
the benefit great in helping to raise the standards of living
among a poor population.
Dr. Walter T. Wallbank, once appointed by the British
government to study her colonies, recently returned from
research in England, and Dr. Theodore H. Chen of the
Asiatic studies department is on campus with fresh in-
formation for students on affairs in the Orient. Dr. Ken-
neth 0. Emery traveled to Bikini at the request of the
Atomic Commission to do research on microscopic life
after the bomb tests. Dr. Eleanor (Continued on page 68)
The Administration Building at USC is
the focal point on campus, containing
Bovard Auditorium. Inset is the chimes
tower of Mudd Memorial Hall. On the
hour Trojans hear Alma Mater song.
Above: Old College, first building on
the campus, houses department of
commerce. Below: College of Aero-
nautics trained more than 8000 flyers
Mice Ehlers of music school Dr. Kenneth O. Emery studied microscopic life Dr. Raymond C. Osborn discovered many Dr. Paul Patek and Dr. Irving Rehman
s the stylist of harpsichord on Bikini after the atomic bomb experiments species of byrozoa on Hancock cruises invented x-ray motion picture camera
Paul Emery, left, and
Harold King, fabric ex-
ecutives, explain the
process of cloth-making.
What Is Fashion Made Of?
BY VIRGINIA SCALLON
-F ashion says cotton-for-fall, and it's a wonder no one has
said it before. Cotton's so right for the dog days of late
summer and autumn, and now so seasonal in all its new dark
shades apd interesting textures. It's gaining a greater follow-
ing among college girls and teensters who joyfully adopt
it for back-to-school wear; and sensible women everywhere
see it as the answer to clothes that are cool-but-correct when
the sun says summertime and the calendar points to fall.
So now if you feel like choosing a cool dark cotton to help
you face your future comfortably and smartly, relax! Cotton's
the thing. You've known it as a perennial school girl favorite,
a stay-at-home beauty, a summertime fancy. Long ago it came
out of the kitchen ; today cotton works and plays and flirts,
it swims and even flies! Cotton's the thing!
Let's take a good look at this versatile fabric. Let's find
out where it comes from, how far it travels from cotton field
to mill. Let's follow it from white fluff into the yardage you
find in the store . . the dress you wear all year 'round.
Our journey takes us to Lewiston, Maine, where we will
be the guests of the Bates Manufacturing Company, makers
of fine cotton fabrics for more than a century. Bates has
three of its five plants in Lewiston, gi\ing employment to
5,040 in that city alone. The company is one of the largest
producers of cotton fabric in the nation. Its Bates Division is
the largest producer of woven jacquard bedspreads and match-
ing draperies in the world, and also makes rayon-and-cotton
damask tablecloths and napkins. The Androscoggin Division
is one of the largest rayon weaving plants, and the Edwards
Division in Augusta, Maine, is one of the few remaining New
England plants weaving soft-filled goods for the industrial
trade.
We are primarily interested in the Hill Division, however.
Both this division and the York Division in Saco, Maine,
manufacture fine combed cotton cloth exclusively . . fashion's
own fabric: the basic cloth from which chambray, percale,
calico, broadcloth and many other smooth cottons are made.
In the Hill Division alone more than 1,500 people turn out
630,000 yards of the basic greige goods each week, approxi-
mately 420 yards per person per week, lO1/^ yards per hour
per each!
Walking over a picturesque moat into a gray hulking build-
ing, we meet friendly Harold V. King, general manager, and
plant manager Paul Emery who volunteer to guide us through
their huge plant.
"We'll start from the very beginning," says Mr. King. "We'll
show you the cotton as we grade it, spread, wind and card it,
comb it for that extra fineness, twist and draw it finer and
finer into thread, and then as it is woven on superhuman
looms that work faster than eye can watch."
The Californion's fashion editor, Virginia Scallon, visits the famous Bates Hill mill, shown above,
and learns that one bale of cotton yields enough fabric to make 350 dresses like this one of
Bates Picolay, designed by Louella Ballerino of California and modeled by Miss Bobbi Cook
We do start at the very beginning . . in cool dark basements
where giant turbines transform water power into motive force
for the whole gigantic plant, as they have done for more
than one hundred years. With the pounding rhythm of the
turbines in our ears, we go into great storerooms where hun-
dreds of 500-pound bales of cotton are stored, coming from
the choicest fields in the Southland, more than a thousand
miles away. They look exactly alike to our inexperienced eyes,
these burlap-wrapped bales with their stout metal bandings.
But we soon learn that they are not alike. Some cotton has long
fibres or staples; some short; some has greater tensile strength,
some more lustre or whiteness.
Mr. King explains that the ideal cotton is a broad blend
of many varieties, chosen in careful proportions for the par-
ticular type of fabric to be made. Skilled employees make
careful selection and start the cotton "boll" rolling through
some twenty different milling processes, from this original
blending to operations of opening and cleaning, picking, card-
ing and drafting, fine combing, drawing and drafting and
twisting into thread, then spinning, slashing and weaving.
Each of these is a laborious technical process, age-old in
tradition and fascinating to watch. Our hosts point out many
interesting highlights as we go along.
We learn that a 500-pound bale of cotton yields only 350
pounds of usable cotton after innumerable cleaning processes.
There is an 18% loss in preliminary carding, we are told,
and a trifle over 30% waste in the important combing process
by which Bates rejects all but the finest fibres. This means
that a sturdy broadcloth, weighing four yards per pound, will
measure 1400 yards to the bale of cotton ; lighter chambray
(five yards per pound) measures 1750 yards per bale. As
our this-season's sheer cotton dresses require about five yards
of fabric we look at a bale of raw cotton and visualize its
contents as three hundred and fifty cotton frocks.
The infinite labor between bale and finished cloth is a
story in itself. We learn that cotton passes through more
than a thousand hands, actually travels for more than five
weeks through Hill alone before it is turned out as basic
greige goods, a material that resembles unbleached muslin.
After that it still must be sent out to finishers and submit to
twelve more individual operations before it reaches us in
familiar quality or type.
Nor is this all, Mr. Emery explains. In Bates' own modern
laboratories skilled chemists conduct endless tests on each new
fabric. Every piece is tested for fade, wash, wear, strength
and "breathability." Each new texture or pattern is the result
of comprehensive tests before it is released to the consumer.
As we continue through the Hill plant our guides con-
stantly remind us of the rigid requirements of perfection to
which all Bates cottons adhere. Evidence of the care taken
is shown by the use of machine-made mist which is sprayed
through the great carding rooms to give cotton strength and
breathability and to eliminate static electricity. The fine over-
head spray causes little sprigs of cotton to cling to our clothes.
and the festoons of fine webbing make the rooms look hoary
with age, dripping with white moss. Actually, the century-old
building is in the best condition and is equipped with the
most modern of textile machinery.
In the carding room alone we see more than two hundred
huge new machines, working at the close tolerance of 7/1000
of an inch, "chewing" at the fringe of cotton as it is fed
over revolving wire cylinders in the first straightening process.
Skirting technical descriptions, too difficult for us to under-
stand, Mr. King and Mr. Emery explain briefly the methods
used to turn a fluff of cotton into fine thread ready for weav-
ing. The first "mix" of cotton is blended in huge vats that
resemble giant washtubs, with blowers and a fast whirling
motion whipping the cotton against a lining of tiny picks
that open and loosen the dirt. Fluffy cotton floats out of the
top while impurities drop through a hopper below. Two or
three variations of this cleaning process follow, with air
blowers and suction forcing the lighten-ing cotton over mov-
ing apron belts to different containers.
Soon the cleansed staples are in sliver form, an untwisted
rope of straightened fibers as big as your wrist, kept in cans
because it's still too intangible to handle in ropes. You can
watch its progress from cans to spools and finally to bobbins
when it is given its first winding twist, the start of real thread,
when the cable is called roving.
In the spinning room we see how the light twisted roving is
pulled and stretched many times its original length, then dou-
bled and drawn again and again for extra strength. There are
92,000 spindles in this room, with receiving spindles in rings
going 9000 revolutions per minute as they twist and stretch
the cable, now eighteen times as fine as the original sliver,
with 28 turns instead of the original two.
We are shown how the filling spin thread goes on bobbins,
and is rewound from its spools to "cheeses" of 50,000 yards
for warp spinning. Four hundred or more of these rolls, the
number depending upon type of fabric to be woven, are put
on a huge metal creel higher than a man's head, and as
many as 5,000 fine threads are unwound from the cheeses
to be fed over a roller, the threads now held to their wanted
width and dressed with starch before looming.
In the first sticky stage, the unwoven sheeting is slashed
and its threads separated as the network of cotton passes over
and under guiding pins. Now the strengthened, "dressed"
threads are ready for weaving, a maze of countless thousands
of threads emerging with each thread separate from its neigh-
bors as they pass toward the weaving process.
In the weave rooms, warp and filler threads are brought
together as we watch, the warp on wide rollers and the filler
thread on bobbins. Whipping its bobbins across the warp at
204 trips to the minute, each loom averages five yards of
woven cloth in an hour. Almost human, it seems to us, the
loom changes bobbins automatically and stops the very instant
any one of its 5,000 tiny threads is broken!
Leaving the weave rooms, we are guided to the cloth room
where we see literally miles of greige goods stitched into
an endless ribbon of fabric to facilitate handling. Here the
uncut greige goods is table inspected and cut into yardage
to be sent to the finishing plants. There it will be translated
into poplin, percale, etc., appropriate weights designated to
certain finishes.
Our journey now takes us to New York City for a visit at
Bates' sales headquarters, where every operation begins and
ends. It is here that designers dream up new patterns and
colors and weaves; here salesmen and buyers transact the
business that puts cotton in the nation's retail stores, in the
hands of fashion manufacturers.
Leading designers, such as California's own Louella Bal-
lerino, are familiar faces here at Bates' New York office. We
are shown a new American Gothic pattern, taken right off
a Rockwell Kent picture, which was a Bates inspiration and
made exclusively for Ballerino, who projected the quaint fabric
into jumpers and dresses with the same chaste severity as the
original picture.
This particular pattern was printed on the newest Bates
texture called picolay, a material that resembles pique, but
the effect is achieved by imprinting pattern, not weaving. It
has textured interest with advantages of a desirable crisp
lightness. This is just one of the ways in which fabric pro-
ducer and designer work together to create original styling,
carrying through a design idea from the very creation of a
pattern and texture of material to the dresses we wear.
We've seen the men
and women of Bates
turn raw cotton into
beautiful cloth. We've
seen the endless chain
of planning and pro-
duction behind its cre-
ation. And now we
know why Fashion
says cotton - for - fall .
We agree . . cotton's
the thing!
61
ATHLETES TAKE FIRE FROM THE SUN
Strengthened by sunshine or orange juice
California youth sets records galore
BY SAM BALTER
VV e Californians are sometimes accused of stretching the
truth a bit in our enthusiasm for our native state's charms
of climate, natural resources, and leisurely living. It is
possible that we are guilty of the charge, but, even so, we
like to feel: The charms of California are so self-evident
that our transgression is, at worst, a slight one; and what
is the harm in a mere matter of degree? It is like the hand-
some lady, no longer young, who was called to the stand,
whereupon the judge gallantly instructed, "Let the witness
state her age. after which she may be sworn."
In the realm of sport, we Californian." ask only that
the last two Rose Bowl football games be ruled out of the
discussion, and, after that, we will grasp the Bible firmly,
take oath, and swing our superlatives about without fear
or favor. For California is truly the cradle of great athletes
and great athletic achievements, certainly unduplicated by
any other comparable sector in the United States; yeah, in
the world.
Whatever the cause — and some suspect vitamins from
orange juice and elixir from the rays of the eternal sun —
California-bred athletes have cut a wide swath among the
record-holders of the world. To the California-bred can
be added a long list of stars who are at least California-
trained (we get 'em one way or another!)
It is particularly in the sports which call for outdoor
play that Californians have excelled: track and field, golf,
tennis, and the like.
The Southern California record in tennis, for example,
is astounding. It is almost as though one brand of tennis
is played in Southern California, and quite another in the
rest of the world. It is a fact that every Junior champion
of the United States for the past fourteen years has come
from the Los Angeles Tennis Club, where a tennis-minded
man named Perry T. Jones, takes the ten and twelve-year
olds in tow, works arduously with them, and proudly
watches them become national champions: Boys', Juniors',
then Men's. Jackie Kramer, currently the world's greatest
tennis star, is just the last of a long, unbroken line that be-
gan with Gene Mako back in 1934.
The number one amateur women's tennis player today is
Louise Brough of Beverly Hills, product of the same
courts; and she is also the last of a long line of the world's
greatest women players: Helen Wills Moody, Helen Jacobs.
Alice Marble, Pauline Betz — all Californians.
Two Southern California buddies. Kramer and Ted
Schroeder, accomplished the return of the coveted Davis
Cup from Australia in 1946, between them routing the
highly regarded Aussies, five matches to none. And the same
pair successfully defended the international trophy last
year. This year, with Kramer's defalcation from the ranks
of the amateurs, it is regarded as virtually certain that the
United States will again be represented by other young
men from California: Schroeder. Parker, Bob Falkenberg,
Tom Brown, or, possibly, the new Mexican-American sensa-
tion, Pancho Gonzales.
In the realm of the runners, the jumpers, and the tossers,
it is the same sort of story. The blue-ribbon event of track
and field, before the National Collegiate Athletic Associa-
tion and its NC2A meets were established, was the so-called
IC4A, held on the East Coast. The Ivy colleges began in-
viting California schools to this meet around 1925, and
began regretting it almost from the first race. The University
of Southern California, under Dean Cromwell who ends
his forty-year career at SC this season, won nine champion-
ships in the first 14 years. The ninth, in 1939, was such
an overwhelming display of strength, in which the Trojans
compiled a record of seventy-one points, that the Trojans
were no longer invited to compete. Incidentally, in the
years the Trojans did not win, it was usually California
or Stanford which did. After 1939, the IC4A returned to a
regional-meet status, and Penn, Harvard, and Yale were
happy again. They had a chance. Meet records show that
a good high school track team in Los Angeles could, year
in and year out, defeat the teams of the major Eastern
universities.
Orange juice and three hundred and sixty-five days a
year outdoors? Undoubtedly those are important factors.
To make the track and field story more current, the
present world's record holder in the hundred-yard dash is a
native Angeleno, Mel Patton of the University of Southern
California. He follows an illustrious list of sprinters at that
institution, Charles Paddock, Charley Borah, and Frank
Wykoff among them; the world's greatest broadjumper is
Willie Steele of San Diego; the world's greatest pole
vaulter is Cornelius Warmerdam of Fresno; and so on, ad
infinitum.
Californians think, also, that the greatest all-around
athlete in American history, not excepting Jim Thorpe, is
a Negro boy from Pasadena named Jackie Robinson. Robin-
son recently became the first Negro ever to play in the
major leagues. But. long before that, Southern Californians
were startled by reports of the young man's prowess. At
UCLA, the lithe and swift Robinson was hitting homers in
a baseball game, broadjumping 25 feet in a track meet,
looking in on spring football practice on the same after-
noon. Before his collegiate career had ended, he held the
Pacific Coast Conference broadjumping record, he was an
all-Coast selection at halfback in football, he was twice the
highest-scoring basketball player in the Conference, and
he was rated the Conference's top major league baseball
prospect.
Students of basketball tend to dismiss the cage sport
from the list of California monopolies. After all, it is an
indoor game, and has long been identified with the Mid-
west. It has sometimes been called "Hoosier Madness."
But it is a fact that, in intersectional play, California
universities have more than held their own with teams of
other sectors. And. in 1936, when basketball became an
Olympic sport for the first time, the team which won the
United States championship and represented this country
in the Games at Berlin, was a team representing Universal
Pictures of Hollywood, composed almost entirely of players
from UCLA. Don Barksdale, ex-UCLA, is a member of the
1948 American Olympic team. (Continued on page 70)
Jackie Robinson
Mel Patton
Ann Curtis
Jack Kramer
Joe DiMaggio
CALIFORNIA UNDERWRITES CULTURE
Dr. Strub and confreres dream of an opera house and civic auditorium
make dreams come true
BY DAVID A. MUNRO
A
group of big businessmen of Los Angeles said "I
told you so" this spring when the Metropolitan Opera
of New York took an unbelievable $368,000 out of local
citizens' pockets in fourteen consecutive performances
at the Shrine Auditorium. Local ticket sales are reported
to have startled the management of the "Met," too.
They haven't been the same since. Some $250,000 for
eighteen weeks of performances is about the best they
can wring out of their New York audiences. George A.
Sloan, board chairman of the Metropolitan Opera As-
sociation. Inc., was so impressed he suggested they change
the corporate name to the Metropolitan Opera Associa-
tion of New York and Los Angeles, Inc. But the big
businessmen who said "I told you so" took it all in their
stride.
As directors of Greater Los Angeles Plans, Inc.,
and opera shouldn't be under the same roof. He con-
sulted engineers and architects and realtors and show-
men. His more modest plans were still far more grandiose
than those of any other city in the world. Greater Los
Angeles Plans would put up $25 million for a "war
memorial" auditorium to seat 20,000 — as against 17,000
for Madison Square Garden, its big rival. They would
put up $15 million for an opera house. The former will
have an arena big enough to accommodate hockey
and even midget auto racing. The latter will be elab-
orately equipped for television. With these facilities and
a generous sprinkling of klieg lights the men of vision
will give Broadway — including long-haired music — a
run for its money.
What makes these plans different from the civic pro-
motions of any other city on the make is the personality
View of Los Angeles' proposed opera house
Dr. Charles Henry Strub
And the auditorium that will seat 20,000
they sponsored the opera. They expected it to prove
once and for all that Los Angeles is "opera-minded,"
and to prove it with a bang. Now, from this point on,
history will practically write itself. But only the naive
among us expect that the queen of the arts coming to
live in Los Angeles will transform this sprawling coun-
try town into a svelte metropolis. All the indications
are that Los Angeles is more likely to transform grand
opera. The local show business — never a shrinking vio-
let— has its eye on a new plum.
The men who have been plotting to take over grand
opera since 1944 have not been widely known in musical
circles. It was in 1944 that Santa Anita's Charles Henry
Strub, a dentist by profession, impresario of horseracing
by preference, sat down with his cronies, aging, Canada-
born P. G. Winnett, president of Bullock's department
store, and Harvey S. Mudd, fabulously wealthy interna-
tional mining expert, to discuss horses, sports and opera.
The racing gentleman, the merchant and the miner were
agreed on one thing: Los Angeles. To glorify their city
they conceived of a vast, incredible super-exposition
palace equipped to handle everything, from grand opera
to college football. The sky was the limit. Each of the
three wrote a check for a thousand dollars. They got
matching checks from four friends. They drafted Albert
B. Ruddock, head of the Southwestern Development Com-
pany, as their "volunteer" president. But that didn't put
them in business. To head the permanent paid staff of
what was incorporated as Greater Los Angeles Plans
they borrowed a tall, prematurely wizened promotion
genius named Ray W. Smith from the Downtown Busi-
nessmen's Association.
Ray Smith brought the plans and the wild talk down
to earth. He found substantial reasons why football
and objectives of the driving dentist-horseman Charlie
Strub. All the bills of GLAP, Inc. are being paid by the
Santa Anita Foundation, a fund built up from the pro-
ceeds of "charity days" at Santa Anita and allocated
(under nominal president P. G. Winnett and nominal
first vice-president Harvey S. Mudd) "to accredited
charitable and welfare associations."
The San Francisco earthquake in 1906 was the key
event of Charlie Strub's life, and possibly the controll-
ing event in the history of grand opera in Los Angeles.
The earthquake destroyed Strub's brand new dentist
office and tumbled Enrico Caruso out of bed. The young
dentist then took a job playing second base for the Sac-
ramento Cordovas — and has been a factor in west coast
sports ever since. The great tenor, then in San Francisco
with the Metropolitan, was unhurt but outraged. He
resolved never to play San Francisco again. The Met
had just given two performances in Los Angeles —
Parsifal and // Trovatore. It could not return to the coast
without Caruso and it was not possible to play the west
without including San Francisco. The hole was partially
filled by the formation of the San Francisco Opera Com-
pany, which has supported itself for eleven years by its
Los Angeles appearances, but it was not until 1948 that
the Met returned to the City of the Angels.
"Doc" Strub's career, meanwhile, didn't seem to be
leading toward grand opera. In 1918 he became a part
owner and president of the San Francisco Baseball Club.
He was then a wealthy chain dentist and he went into
professional baseball management as a businessman and
as a baseball fan. But baseball business is show business,
and fifteen years as chief of the Seals transformed Doc
Strub into a showman. By 1933 Strub had almost
literally outgrown (Continued on page 70)
63
PATTERNED FOR
Renie is the studio designer who this month turns her
designing talent to creating clothes for you to make.
For eleven years she designed for RKO productions,
designing clothes for top stars like Ginger Rogers, La-
raine Day, Ethel Barrymore and Joan Leslie. Re-
cently she has gone into the manufacturing business,
creating the daytime and evening clothes with that in-
definable touch of drama. Renie herself is a beautiful
woman who spends every spare moment studying
dancing, riding horseback, ice skating (she's won cups
galore), and gardening. She has one of the largest
collection of art and costume books in the country.
Renie's view of fashion is a ladylike one, this season
exhibiting a nostalgic feeling for fashion, together
with a timelessness in styling . . . which makes for
true wardrobe economyl Her most recent picture ward-
robe was for the RKO picture "Miracle of the Bells"
with the new star Valli.
64
Now you can make clothes designed for you by Renie
with the same sure eye for beauty that has made
her a world-famous studio designer. Opposite page,
the peg-top silhouette, flattering for so many figures
and with a certain nostalgic charm. To be made of
Shirley's rayon Topper, 44 inches wide, about $2.25.
This page, the picture-pretty silhouette
with snug-fitted waist and swirling skirt, designed to be made
of Shirley's 3-ply rayon Strutter, crease-resistant
fabric that is a practical choice for the graceful full
skirt . . 42 inches wide, about $2.00. Both materials are
in California's own high shades and muted pastels for
fall, airfast process colors guaranteed against
gas-fading or streaking.
You may secure your Modes Royale pattern by
sending $2 direct to The Californian Magazine,
1020 South Main St., Los Angeles 15. Please in-
dicate style by number and size . . 1 2 to 20.
—J
California (looks
A FLORENCE THOMAS BOWL
by Helen Evans Brown
A WELL-DRESSED salad, like a well-dressed gal, goes in
for simplicity. Complete simplicity in a salad and, according
to those in the know, complete perfection, is a bowl of
greens and herbs, served with a classic French dressing.
The first salad, or at least the first dish of leaves to be so
called, was merely dressed with salt . . the word salad comes
from the Latin sal, salt, if you care. Later, oil and vinegar
were added as an improvement. It might have been better
if the thing had stopped right there, but, as always happens,
one addition led to another, one garnish to a thousand of
them. In 1683 one G. Markham wrote: "First then to speak
of Sallets, there be some simple, some compounded, some
only to furnish out the table." That last one, as you've
gathered, too gorgeous to eat even if anyone had had the
fortitude. But Mr. Markham spoke first of simple salads,
the one of mixed greens, and so will I. It is admittedly the
best of them but, like other things that owe their perfec-
tion to simplicity, it has a plan. Once the trick is learned
a masterpiece can be produced with complete nonchalance.
By you.
MIXED GREEN SALAD
A large bowl is a must, but don't let anyone tell you that it
has to be a wooden one. That fad has gone the way of the
many rancid bowls that have had to be discarded because no
amount of tender care could prevent the soaked-in oil from
tasting its age. So, unless you have a wooden bowl you're
sure of, use one made of china, or glass, or earthernware
. . large enough so that it won't be more than half, or at
most, two-thirds full of salad. The choice of greens is up
to you: Lettuce of course, either the ubiquitous iceberg or,
far better, the tender leaf lettuce. Romaine is excellent, as
is water cress, chicory (curly endive), escarole (broad leaf
IN CALIFORNIA IT'S SALAD
FIRST
LAST
AND ALWAYS!
endive) and French or Belgian endive. (The last, that
blanched, closely headed long leaf, is frighteningly expensive
by the pound, but as an ounce or two of it adds much charm
to a salad, don't skip it too often.)
Tender leaves of spinach, or indeed any edible leaf, may
be used, and fresh green herbs are sublime providing they
are used with discretion. Have the greens chilled, and of
course washed and thoroughly dried. The French dry theirs
by swinging them in a wire lettuce basket until every drop
of water has flown away. A tea towel works just as well, but
if vou're prudent you'll do your swinging outdoors and for
goodness sake hold on to the corners of that towel ! Or, if
this sounds too strenuous, pat each leaf dry with a cloth.
If you want garlic, and I'm sure you do, introduce it in
one of these ways: Rub the inside of your bowl with a cut
clove of garlic, letting your love of the bulb influence the
vigor of your application. Or emulate the French and use
a chapon (a heel of bread that has been rubbed with garlic)
in the bowl when you mix the salad. Or, and this is popular
with many people, allow a clove of garlic to stand in either
oil or vinegar before using. Break the crisp cold greens
into your salad and bring it to the table. The mixing of a
salad is a pretty sight and one that will be enjoyed by all
the guests. Bring also a small tray on which you've placed
a salad fork and spoon, a dish of salt, or a salt mill, a
pepper mill, and two cruets, one of oil, the other of vinegar.
To be perfect the oil should be pure olive, but if that's be-
yond your budget dilute it witb a tasteless vegetable oil.
Likewise the vinegar should be a wine vinegar (the word
vinegar comes from the French vin aigre, sour wine) but that
won't hurt any pocketbook as wine vinegars are compara-
tively inexpensive. Herb vinegars may be purchased too, and
used when fresh herbs are not available.
Now to the actual dressing of the salad: There's an overly
I quoted Spanish proverb that says it takes four men to do the
job . . a spendthrift to add the oil; a miser, the vinegar;
a wise man to judge the exact amount of salt ; and a madman
to toss them all together. I'll go along with the first three,
but that last character will have no part in the mixing of my
salad . . you'll see why later on.
But first, resting your salad spoon on top of the greens
you put in it a saltspoon of salt. (Here's where the "wise-
man" comes in. The exact amount depends on how much
salad is being dressed.) A few grains of pepper are ground
on top of the salt. Now comes the vinegar, added by the
"miser." It is usually sufficient to fill the spoon but once if the
salad is a small one. Stir this mixture with the salad fork
until the salt is at least semi-dissolved, then sprinkle it over
the salad. This is said to open the pores of the lettuces so
that they will "breathe" in the oil that is to follow. Three
or four spoonfuls of it if you have used one spoonful of
vinegar. If you're really the "spendthrift" you'll use four
and be glad you did, though the famous salad poem by
Sydney Smith doesn't agree with me. "Three times the spoon
with oil of Lucca crown, and once with vinegar, procured
from town."
Now for the tossing, and don't take that word "toss" too
seriously. Actually, it is more of a turning action, using the
spoon and fork and carefully turning the leaves from the
bottom to the top of the bowl until each one is completely
covered with the dressing. No madman wanted here . . better
the mythical salad-maker who painted each leaf of his salad
with a camel's hair brush, dipped in French dressing. Now,
with each lovely green leaf glistening with oil, and with the
wonderful aroma of olives and of wine arising from the
| bowl, pass the bowl that each guest may help himself. So
fjl good your eye, so sure your judgment, there will not be one
jl drop of excess dressing in the bottom of the bowl ; so per-
/ feet your salad that there will not be one piece of greenery
left to be returned to the kitchen.
Visitors to California usually are impressed by the cus-
tom of serving salads . . at least in hotels and restaurants . .
as a first course. The practice has its merits as it gives the
chef ample time to prepare le specialtie de maison while the
patron is enjoying the salad, instead of blunting his appe-
tite on too much bread. Even at home this idea is sometimes
a good one . . at least for the hostess who is also cook
and waitress. The salad, arranged on individual plates, may
be already at the places when the guests are seated. There's
one course taken care of! No simple salad of mixed greens,
though. This introductory salad should be a "Compound
Sallet" such as:
CATALINA SALAD
Allow one medium ripe tomato for each serving. Peel and
cut into thick slices, reserving the end pieces for other pur-
poses. Arrange the slices on individual serving plates, garnish
with a sprig or two of water cress or fresh basil, and cross
each slice of tomato with a filet of anchovy that has been
split. Now mix together one tablespoon of olive oil and one
teaspoon of basil wine vinegar for each serving. Sprinkle
each tomato slice with oregano which you have crushed be-
tween your palms, pour on the dressing, and serve. No salt
or pepper in this recipe . . the anchovy takes care of the first,
the oregano the second. This should be served Arctic cold,
so be sure to chill the tomatoes after peeling them or, better
yel, do it this way: Spear the tomatoes on the end of a
long fork and hold them over a gas flame until the skin
splits. Put them in the refrigerator until ready to serve, then
peel off the skins.
Summer lunches call for salads and sometimes nothing
else but, so, if there are husky appetites around, they have
to have more than a wisp of lettuce. Here is an old friend
in a new guise.
BACON AND EGG SALAD
For each bunch of lettuce or romaine, hard boil three
eggs, remove shells and chop. Cook six slices of bacon until
crisp and crumble it on top of the lettuce which has been
put in a salad bowl. Add the chopped eggs, and, if your
afternoon activities allow, some chopped green onions. Now
sprinkle on a half teaspoon of salt, a few grindings of black
pepper, two tablespoons of vinegar and the bacon fat. Mix
tenderly, garnish with slices of hard boiled egg, if you wish,
and serve with iced tea or milk and with toasted cheese sand-
wiches. There's a meal of salad that won't be followed by
such mutterings as "rabbit food" or "Nebuchadnezar!"
Californians serve salads perhaps most often as an accom-
paniment to steaks or hamburgers, grilled over charcoal, and
served in the patio. First choice for that outdoor salad, at
least currently, seems to be one that's neither simple nor com-
pound, but rather a combination of the two. This salad has
at least a dozen different versions . . their kinship lies in
a coddled egg. Here's one way:
CALD70RNIA PATIO SALAD
Cut a loaf of sour dough bread into half-inch cubes and
brown them in oil that has been flavored with garlic. (If
you do this with a frying basket you'll save yourself a lot
of trouble.) Wash, dry. and crisp four heads of romaine
and break it into a large garlic-rubbed bowl. Add a tea-
spoon of salt, a goodly amount of coarsely ground black
pepper, two tablespoons of tarragon vinegar, three-quarters
of a cup of olive oil, and six filets of anchovies that have
been cut in small pieces. Mix well, then break in two eggs
that have been allowed to coddle for one minute. (Put in
boiling water, turn off heat.) On top of the eggs squeeze
the juice of one large, or two small lemons. Mix very thor-
oughly, then add a half cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese
and mix again. Now add the croutons, give the salad a turn
or two, and serve it forth. This is a big salad, but I promise
you it will be eaten in a big way!
The Doheny Memorial Library, built at a cost of
$1,000,000, contains more than 350,000 books
use
(Continued from page 59) Metheny of the
physical education department took part in
General MacArthur's rehabilitation program
for the Japanese.
Unique is the Hancock Foundation under
the direction of its benefactor, Captain Allan
Hancock, president of the board of trustees.
Music, cinema, radio and science are its
fields of endeavor, and the four-story Han-
cock Building has become a Pacific Coast
headquarters for marine and biological
studies. Here, many thousands of rare speci-
mens are on display, collected on ten expedi-
tions to the Galapagos Islands and other equa-
torial waters. The Hancock exploration
cruiser, Velero III, was taken over by the
Navy during the war . . and the Velero IV
has just been christened.
Musical culture for the campus and the
community is provided by the Hancock En-
semble, with the good Captain serving as
cellist. Their presentations of the masters are
done under the condition that no fees are
charged by their hosts, which include schools,
service organizations and clubs throughout
the state. In the Hancock Building, too, is
the radio department, under direction of
William Sener, attended by 400 students. The
f.m. station, KUSC, uses the 200-foot tower
atop the building, and KTRO, the short wave
station, cooperates in the use of the elaborate
studio and recording rooms.
The S. C. College of Aeronautics at Santa
Maria, north of Santa Barbara, was founded
by Captain Hancock, a licensed pilot, and
during its 20 years of operation has trained
more than 8,000 air cadets. Complete dormi-
tories, hangars for 100 or more planes, and
machine shops make this college the largest
of its kind in the West. Here, the student
may progress from light training planes to
P-38s, B-17s or a jet job.
Unique, too, is the Los Angeles University
of International Relations at S. C. where stu-
dents are given background training for dip-
lomatic service. It ties in with interests of
the famous Chancellor Rufus B. von Klein-
Smid, who served as president of the univer-
sity for 25 years, and who has been given
high civilian awards from more than a score
of foreign governments for his support in
creating goodwill among nations.
The annual Institute of World Affairs, an
affiliate of the university, usually is held at
the Mission Inn in Riverside for more than
fifty authorities on international relations.
Here, Dr. von KleinSmid is chancellor, too.
The university's department of international
relations last term attracted 251 foreign stu-
dents, and it's not an uncommon sight on
campus to see a Chinese girl in native dress
or a student from India still wearing his tur-
ban.
President of the University today is Dr.
Fred D. Fagg, Jr., who took over the ad-
ministration in September, 1947. Dr. Fagg,
assistant to the dean of the College of Com-
merce from 1927 to 1929, won his A.B. and
LL.D. at the University of Redlands, his A.M.
at Harvard, and a J.D. at Northwestern. A
lawyer, economist and aviation enthusiast, the
president served as director of the United
States Bureau of Air Commerce in '37'38
and has been a member of numerous national
aeronautical commissions.
"Our largest job today," he says, "is to
sell the next generation and to sell ourselves.
If the educational institutions of this nation
can raise a crop of young men and women
who are willing to do their duties like men,
the future of this country is secure."
Naturally there are outstanding alumni
among the 50,000. Harold J. Stonier is vice-
president of the American Bankers Associa-
tion; Hugh Bailey is president of the United
Press; Lieutenant General Ira Eaker re-
cently retired from the Army Air Force; Dr.
Tully C. Knowles is chancellor of the Col-
lege of the Pacific; Dr. Cloyd H. Marvin,
president of George Washington University;
Hallam H. Anderson, national vice-president
of Shell Oil; Mario Chamlee and Lawrence
Tibbett of the Metropolitan Opera Co. And
locally the former Trojans include Mayor
Fletcher Bowron, County Tax Collector How-
ard Byram, Sheriff Eugene Biscailuz.
The university is alma mater to approximate-
ly 11,000 war veterans. Classes are held in ev-
ery building, including 26 former Army bar-
racks, from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. More than 9,000
attend classes at University College at night.
Tradition dictates that women will not smoke
on campus, wear slacks to classes, or recline
on the campus lawns.
But . . there are four men for every co-ed !
UCLA
(Continued from page 57) Drs. H. S. Penn
and S. J. Glass, Los Angeles physicians and
research associates in zoology, work under his
program, as does Dr. David Appleman, whose
research in plant nutrition led him to the
study of cancer cells.
The department of bacteriology also co-
operates with the medical schools here and
in Berkeley, with the Western Regional Re-
search Laboratory and other governmental
agencies exploring the virtues of antibiotics
which might be of value in combatting tu-
berculosis and other infectious diseases. Dr.
Anthony J. Salle, professor of bacteriology,
is a key figure in this work.
Another young and progressive organiza-
tion at U.C.L.A. is the College of Engineer-
ing, headed by Dean L. M. K. Boelter, who
came from the Berkeley campus. U.C.L.A. en-
gineers are engaged in a multitude of research
projects, many of which are sponsored by or-
ganizations as widely different in scope as the
research projects themselves. Tests on struc-
tural steel, the development of soil stabilizers
for building landing strips for the Air Force
and roads for the Army, the improvement of
fire -fighting equipment for the Forest Service
. . these are only a few of the studies under
way.
Exemplifying the modern on-your-toes atti-
tude of the engineering department is a piece
of equipment known as the differential an-
alyzer . . often called "the mechanical brain."
It is a computing machine which saves un-
told numbers of man-hours in performing
mathematical calculations and solves some
problems which could not be worked out by
conventional mathematical techniques. There
are only six such calculators in the U. S.
The one at U.C.L.A. is kept busy solving
complicated equations for the aircraft indus-
try as well as for other interested parties
with problems too big or too tough for a man
with a pencil.
The Institute of Geophysics, one of the
few such organizations anywhere in the world
and the only one in the Western United
States, is an all-university project with head-
quarters on the Los Angeles campus. Directed
by Dr. Louis B. Slichter, formerly of M.I.T.
and the University of Wisconsin, the insti-
tute was recently formed (1) to study the
complex problems of the earth's dynamics'
and (2) to explore the earth for new stores
of natural resources. It is particularly appro-
priate and important to California because
of the abundance here of such natural won- I
ders as earthquakes, mountain building,
oceanic phenomena, underground water prob-
lems, oil, minerals, and varied climate char- (
acteristics that include rapid temperature and
moisture changes within limited local areas. |
Special weather investigations conducted by
the institute should be of great benefit to
agriculturists. The institute's potential im-
portance to the state at large has been rec-
ognized by the formation of a special coun-
cil composed of mining, industry and re-
search leaders who advise the institute of spe- i
cific possibilities for service.
The fast-growing theater arts department (
on the Los Angeles campus, headed by Ken-
neth Macgowan, former Paramount producer I
of such hit movies as "Lifeboat" and "Little
Women," offers sound training in the arts
of stage and screen, and soon will add radio
to its curriculum.
Organized to combine strong liberal arts I
academic requirements with stage training,
the theater arts department aims at more
than a quick turning-out of actors. The school j
has been hailed by such respected profes-
sional actors as Charles Coburn as one of
the very few which offer a thorough ground- i
ing in the great traditions of the theater, j
A new laboratory containing full facilities
for making movies is now in use by the mo-
tion picture division of the department, un-
der direction of John Ross Winnie. Hollywood
professionals with experience in all phases
of production assist Mr. Winnie. The theater
division, under Ralph Freud, uses the facili- ,
ties in Royce Hall which include an experi-
mental theater equipped for central staging. I
Unique among college courses, the curricu-
lum in apparel design and merchandising on
the Los Angeles campus was made a part I
of the College of Applied Arts in the fall
of 1945 at the request of the California ap- |
parel industry and the California State Re-
construction and Reemployment Commission.
The curriculum was designed and set up
after consultations between university officials
and representatives of the apparel industry
to provide a broad academic and cultural
background with specialization in clothing
designing and merchandising. Close coopera-
tion between the university and the California
apparel industry, recognized leader in the
sportswear field, provide students of the four-
year course with excellent opportunities in a
growing industry.
Important work in the analysis of motion
pictures and radio as a means of mass com-
munication and propaganda has been done
in the department of psychology by Dr.
Franklin Fearing. Dr. Grace Fernald has de-
veloped special methods of re-learning for
children and adults who have difficulty with
reading, and has conducted research in the
application of clinical methods to the physical-
ly handicapped and mentally and socially
maladjusted. Other projects being carried on
in the department are researches in color
blindness and stammering, their possible
cures, and psychological aspects of the use
of prosthetics by amputees.
The College of Business Administration,
headed by Dean Neil H. Jacoby, formerly
of the University of Chicago, offers special-
ized training and sponsors meetings of out-
standing groups of business administrators.
The Investment Bankers Association, the
Southern California Management Conference
and the American Association of Advertis-
ing Agencies are some of the organizations
which have actively participated in the col-
lege programs.
U.C.L.A.'s School of Education has directed
the training and development of nearly 12,000
teachers and administrators for California's
system of public instruction, ranging from
68
kindergarten to junior college. Dean is Dr.
Edwin A. Lee, an educator with a distin-
guished record of achievement. In the de-
partment of geology, Dr. James Gilluly and
Dr. U. S. Grant conduct research in earth
problems, and during the war trained at
least a score of geologists who performed
outstanding service in discovering and de-
Iveloping supplies of minerals in which the
nation was deficient.
The University of Calfornia at Los Angeles
library, one of the fastest-growing book col-
lections in the United States, is under the
leadership of Lawrence Clark Powell and has
created a music library valued at S500.000.
The collection contains more than 8,000
scores and parts for operas, symphonies,
suites, concertos, folk songs, band numbers,
etc, and serves many motion picture, radio
and symphonic orchestras in Southern Cali-
fornia. The library itself has become one of
the major university research and teaching
libraries in the country and serves the de-
mands of the fast-growing and culturally
vigorous Los Angeles area.
The old axiom, "the greatest university is
not built of bricks and stone . . but of men,"
is still true. U.C.L.A.'s reputation gains added
luster from the service rendered the com-
munity by its growing company of distin-
guished scholars, educators and scientists.
The Dinosaur Fight
(Continued from page 52) "My car is out-
side," Oswald said challengingly, walking
over to the door and holding it open. "I
wouldn't wear your green hat if I were you
. . he's a plant feeder."
I sudied Oswald carefully as we made the
turn onto Wilshire and headed for Hancock
Park. His jaw was frozen in a half grin. Alas,
poor Oswald! Love had unzippered his mind
and now we were out looking for dinosaurs in
the middle of crowded Los Angeles. The least
I could do, I thought, was humor him this once
and then spirit him off to a psychiatrist first
thing in the morning.
The bright moon cast an eerie green over
Hancock Park as we stepped over a small
chain guarding the entrance. Once inside the
wall of bushes surrounding the park, we made
our way along the small winding dirt path.
The blur of traffic headlights and neon signs
on the boulevard close by served as strange
contrast to the peaceful moonlit park.
Oswald led me straight to the small lake.
An occasional gas bubble struggled through
the liquid tar bottom and broke on the surface
of the water. Oswald pointed to the dark
shadows beneath the blue gum trees across
the lake.
"I can't see very well with these new
glasses," Oswald whispered. "Do you see
anything unusual over there?"
"Nothing but trees, I hope!" I said,
straining my eyes.
"He was standing over there last night,"
Oswald said quietly, "tearing up plants by
the roots and tossing them down his giant
neck."
I started chuckling. You can't muzzle a
sense of humor forever.
Oswald glared at me disgustedly. As we
walked around the park he was scarcely aware
of my presence. Desperately clinging to the
briefcase he had carried along with him,
Oswald scanned the surrounding treetops like
a hungry water crane.
We were standing at pit number ten now.
"Look, Oswald," I said, pointing to the des-
criptive placard nailed to the wooden post.
"This is where they found our very dear old
friend, the saber tooth tiger. A couple
hundred of them dug up from this spot alone."
"That was practically yesterday . . a mere
500,000 years ago!" Oswald grunted dis-
interestedly.
I listened quietly to the gurgling sound of
bubbles surfacing on the liquid tar pit.
Oswald's scientific mind had years past gone
into the convent of the Mesozoic Age. He
refused to be more than lightly concerned with
any species originating less than a million
years ago.
The gurgling sound seemed even closer now.
Turning about swiftly, I stood there with
shocked expression. Oswald, the man who has
never taken a drink stronger than limeade in
his life, was tipping a large black bottle to his
lips. He jumped guiltily as I wheeled about,
and quickly stuffed the bottle back into the
briefcase.
"That's all I want to know," I said dis-
gustedly, starting to walk away.
Oswald was performing a lot of "firsts" that
evening. He started bawling in a most flagrant
manner. Reluctantly, I was compelled to sit
on the brick guard wall of the pit and discuss
Unrequited Love, its causes and after effects.
Oswald unzippered the black briefcase and
lifted the uncorked bottle toward the moon-
lit sky.
"To a lost cause!" Oswald sighed, flourish-
ing the bottle as though it were a champagne
glass. He drank deeply and extended the
bottle in my direction, his expression inti-
mating the toast would not be official unless
I took part in the sorrowful ceremonies.
Thin, purple streaks of false dawn were
edging the horizon as we headed back toward
the park gate. The traffic noise on Wilshire
had dissolved into the lone chirping of a park
cricket. A dozen yards from the gate entrance,
Oswald tapped me on the shoulder. "Aren't
you going to wave goodbye to our pal Bronto?"
"Bronto who?" I said, turning around.
"Good old Brontosaurus Excelsus, the dino-
saur," Oswald said. "That's not a fox terrier
you see scratching his back over by pit ten."
Looking in the direction of Oswald's point-
ing finger, I could see a colossal reptile head
darting nervously from side to side against
the pale yellow moon. The giant stovepipe
neck towered high over the treetops. It was
walking now and it was as though half the
bushes on the horizon had suddenly started
movine. When a clearing had been reached
I could see the four pillar-like limbs supnort-
ing an enormous arching back that must have
weighed forty tons.
"He's coming over to say goodbye now,"
Oswald said.
"Tell him I've gone!"
"Ah, ah!" Oswald remonstrated, yanking
me back by the coat tail. "He's as harmless
as a kitten. . . . Brontosauruses like to gorge
themselves on plants and grass."
My adam's apple was going down for the
fourth time. "How long has he been over
there?" I whispered with what was left of
my voice.
"He was grazing behind you when we were
at the pit," Oswald said. "I didn't mention it
... I don't see how you could have missed
him."
What happened next caused my knees to
tremble. The mighty dinosaur trumpeted, the
blast echoing from Burbank to Terminal
Island. Great soaring buzzards were fanning
the air directly over the dinosaur's head.
A sinister looking tan cat the size of a horse
was crouching behind a nearby boulder. I
grabbed Oswald and pointed excitedly!
"Look! A live saber tooth!"
"The bushes over there are lousy with them,"
Oswald said. "They're waiting for old Bronto
to stick his tootsies in that goo pool."
"Let's get out of here while we're still alive!"
I pleaded. The buzzards had learned to keep
a respectable distance from the dinosaur now.
Bronto was lumbering slowly in our direction,
stopping now and then to uproot a small bush
and gulp it down his massive throat without
mastication.
"Were you aware that dinosaurs keep round
boulders in their stomachs to help digest
food?" Oswald asked cooly, refusing the
while to budge an inch from where he was
standing.
"I have no intention of finding out!" I said,
crawling on my hands and knees toward the
gateway. Several yards ahead I stopped cold
in my tracks. A huge reptile head curving
downward from the sky blocked my path, re-
garding me silently with dull, blinking eyes.
Jolly fellow . . Ham-
mer Schmidt . . is the
author of this terrify-
ing piece, based on his
visits to the famous La
Brea Tar Pits under
the glare of the noon-
day sun. He declares
that he often awakes
at night to the agoniz-
ing cries of saber-
tooth tigers and the
trumpeting of Imperial
elephants. But then,
he continues, it could
be the noise of the
traffic on Wilshire Boulevard. Hammer likes
animals. He collaborated with Ogden Nash
on a gay book called "Stag At Eve."
I felt Oswald's bony fingers poking my
shoulders warningly. "I wouldn't crawl if I
were you ... he is thinking possibly that you
are a water beetle."
One frightened broad jump landed me
behind a massive tree trunk where Oswald
stood. Pulling a small steel mallet out of his
briefcase, Oswald started tapping the tree
trunk like a woodpecker. "I want to see how
Bronto's reflexes are, if any!"
I noticed the thick scales on the trunk when
it lifted itself high in the air and walked
away. The huge, bony tail, grinding brush
and pebbles in its wake, slithered past and
twitched momentarily, knocking both of us
over like tumbling kittens.
When I recovered seconds later, the dinosaur
was muzzling Oswald along like a cat playing
with a wounded mouse. Oswald jumped up
and performed a startling feat. Leaping over
the snout of the dinosaur, Oswald scurried up
the long leathery neck until he reached the
animal's mountainous back, and then perched
there in cowboy fashion. Bronto continued to
graze on bushes as though Oswald were a
clinging gnat. Suddenly the dinosaur bellowed
and raised on his hind haunches.
Shouting for help as I ran out of the park, I
could see Oswald hanging desperately to the
bucking dinosaur's neck. He still had the
probing mallet in his free hand, busily testing
the reflexes of each vertebrae in the giant's
spine.
Oswald was shouting something at me glee-
fully. Just then the upper part of the dinosaur
shuddered momentarily and like a tremendous
mountain slide, plummeted downward, fol-
lowed by the sickening sound of forty tons of
dinosaur crashing to the earth.
A police prowl car turned sharply off Wil-
shire and pulled up in front of the park with
screeching brakes. Detectives swarmed out of
the car before it had come to a complete stop.
"In here! In here!" I shouted, leading the
way back into the park. "Dinosaurs!"
Inside the park I was dumbfounded at the
lone sight of Oswald lying at the brink of the
tar pool, staring into it blankly. He answered
my silent question by merely pointing morosely
to large air blisters seeping upward through
the liquid asphalt.
A certain amount of skepticism prevailed
the following day when we explained our dis-
covery to the magistrate down at City Hall.
And you'd think those old fossils, the Board
of Supervisors at the museum, would back
up their employees in a discovery of this
magnitude! What happened amounted to a
complete betrayal of faith between employee
and employer. Oswald and I were forced to
take a month's vacation on the grounds that
we had been working too hard lately and were
in need of complete rest.
Now that I review the events leading up to
the dinosaur's appearance, I am certain that
Oswald and I were not victims of hallucina-
tions brought on by the bourbon fumes. Be-
cause people who experience said illusions
claim faithfully that animals therein range
from snakes to elephants of varying shades
of red. No one, to my knowledge, has ever
reported grappling with a dinosaur while under
the influence of the grape.
69
FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE
H,
ere they are, madamel Here is a supplemental
list of stores . . and we hope they're convenient to
you . . that carry most of the smart, new fashions
we've shown in this issue. The nearest store listed
will be happy to fill your mail order, or you may
write to The Californian if you so desire.
Page 30 — Saba of California's three-piecer is avail-
able at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Yearing's,
Austin; C. H. Yeager Co., Akron. Junior Miss of
California corduroy wardrobe at Nancy's, Holly-
wood; Younkers, Des Moines; Kerr's, Oklahoma City;
J. L. Brandeis, Omaha; Miller Bros., Chattanooga.
Page 31 — Madalyn Miller's rayon plaid at Lucille's,
Westwood Village; Maas Bros., Tampa; Davidson's,
Miami; Bertha Cooke, Tallahassee. Marjorie Mont-
gomery's gabardine suit at Bullock's-Wilshire, Los
Angeles; Lanz of California, Los Angeles and San
Francisco; Miller Bros., Cleveland; Mademoiselle,
Sacramento; Beverly Dress Shop, San Anfonio.
Page 32 — Lanz of California gabardine jumper at Lanz
stores in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle.
Page 33 — Viola Dimmit gabardine raincoat also at I.
Magnin, Los Angeles and San Francisco; Neiman-
Marcus, Dallas. Alice of California's striped cot-
ton also at Yeilding Bros., Birmingham; Higgin-
botham Bros., Comanche, Texas; The Paris Co., Salt
Lake City; Dorel's, Berkeley; Island City Dress
Shop, Alameda; Dorothy's, Livingston, Calif.; Al-
bert's, Inc., San Rafael; Gertrude Mingea, Chicago;
People's Store, Safford, Ariz.; Granger's, Emporia,
Kan.; Sea bright Dress Shop, San Francisco; The
Corals, Guam; Economy Store, Hayward, Calif.;
H. E. Johnson, Wickenburg; The Toggery, Manteca,
Calif., Bishop Variety Shop, Oceanlake, Ore.; The
Stylist, Auburn, Wash.
Page 34 — Lynn Lester rayon gabardine classic at Hag-
garty's, Los Angeles; Wm. H. Block Co., In-
dianapolis; Frick's, Pasadena.
Page 35 — Barney Max three-piece outfit at D. H.
Holmes, New Orleans; Sakowitz Bros., Houston; A.
HERE ARE THE STORES
Harris, Dallas. Hollywood Premiere's rayon gabar-
dine suit at Gude's, Los Angeles; Charles Stevens,
Chicago.
Page 37 — Hollywood Premiere coordinates also at stores
listed on page 15; a good-sized list, and there's
probably one near you.
Page 41 — Zolot of California three-piece suit also at
Gude's, Los Angeles; Bon Marche, Sacramento; Gar-
finckle, Washington, D. C; Nancy's, Hollywood;
Liebes, San Francisco; Kerr's, Oklahoma City; Dal-
ton Co., Baton Rouge. Mitchell and Hoffman wool
jersey also at Higbee's, Cleveland. Lanz of Cali-
fornia polka dot jersey with apron available at
Lanz in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle.
Page 42 — Andree Gay's black satin and blouse at
Ann's and Gold's, Los Angeles; Peggy Shop, San
Francisco; Bess Blair, Bakersfield; Smart Shop, Comp-
ton; Renee's, Santa Monica; Jay's Dress Shop,
Sonora. Franc ine Frocks' rustling taffeta at Ballard
& Brotkett, San Diego. Linsk of California two-
piece crepe at Bullock's, Los Angeles.
Page 43 — Glamour Time dress at Haggarty's, Los An-
geles; Ann's Shop and Peggy Shop, San Francisco.
Page 45 — Emma Domb taffeta formal also at Emery-
Bird-Thayer, Kansas City; Miller & Paine, Lincoln;
Abraham & Strauss, Brooklyn; L. S. Donaldson,
Minneapolis; The Hecht Co., Washington, D. C;
Denver Dry Goods, Denver; Meier & Frank, Portland;
Einbender's, St. Joseph; Home's, Dayton; Schune-
man's, St. Paul; J. N. Adams Co., Buffalo. Cole
of California creation at D. H. Holmes, New Or*
leans; Allen Abbes, Miami.
Page 53 — Irving Schechter suit available at Bullock's-
Wilshire, Los Angeles; Ralph Rupley, Houston; John-
son Dress Shop, Fort Worth; Dunlap Co., Vic-
toria, Texas; Mildred Moore, Beverly Hills; Parson's,
Tulsa; H. Liebes, San Francisco; Carroll's, Boise;
Carman's, Omaha; Charlotte Shop, Oxnard; Levee's,
Vallejo; Bernard's, Spokane; Elwood's, Oakland; Lil-
lian's, Long Beach, Calif.; Gladys Tevis, Santa
Barbara; H. C. Capwell, Oakland.
CALIFORNIA UNDERWRITES CULTURE
(Continued from page 63) San Francisco and
the off-league baseball which is all we have
on the coast. In that perilous bottom year
Strub, who had been wiped out and put in
debt by the crash of '29, performed a prodi-
gious feat of money-raising and founded
Santa Anita. It was an immediate success.
Today Charlie Strub is lord of a magnificent
clipped and irrigated domain. Today Charlie
Strub packs in hundreds of thousands from
booming Los Angeles, and Santa Anita is
known like the palms of their hands to
bookmakers throughout the land. And today
Charlie Strub — twelve years a dentist, fifteen
years a ball club owner, fifteen years a race-
course operator — is ready for another sea-
change.
Los Angeles is waiting for destiny, too.
Destiny has already arrived, according to Ru-
dolph Friml, the romantic Viennese with a
Hollywood address. Friml airily announced
when he returned on a boat recently that Los
Angeles was already the music capital of
the world and that it has surpassed Vienna
in its palmiest days, even if it hasn't a
Strauss. Edwin Lester, producer of musical
comedies for the Los Angeles Civic Light
Opera Association, is equally certain of des-
tiny. The world premiere of his Magdalena —
which hit a new high in production cost at
8250,000— opened July 26 at the Philharmonic
Auditorium. It is one in a series of progres-
sively more lavish musical extravaganzas. All
the signs seem to point to a new and higher
musical destiny's being just around the cor-
ner.
Parenthetically it should be noted why
it is not particularly newsworthy — or at
least not magazine worthy — that Los An-
geles is starting to build the world's great-
est auditorium, complete with subterranean
parking space for 5000 cars. This is the
Los Angeles the world is well aware of; the
rabble whose interests are confined to bread
and circuses, the city whose brassy soul is
expressed in the glittering banalities of Hol-
lywood. But to identify the city with great
music or at the pinnacle of the arts or as a
Vienna reincarnate on this Pacific slope —
that's something else again.
However, these doubts about the gawky,
sprawling city are confined to a certain very
bookish minority. The people who like to talk
and intellectualize and spin theories about
Los Angeles are painfully aware that the city
is no center of culture and refinement. But
none of these doubts trouble the sleep of a
Doc Strub, who tailors his shows to the audi-
ence as he finds it; or of a P. G. Winnett,
who began metering yardgoods to Los An-
geles in 1896 and has been at it ever since;
or of Harvey Mudd, the miner whose OK is
persuasive in the financial community. The
doers of Los Angeles think opera is a good
bet. And, having made this decision, they
propose to put opera on its feet. All the
other considerations are brushed aside, even
the occasional argument that, in a century
of trial, grand opera has never been on a
paying basis.
Possibly opera lovers, if they'd had their
way, would not have chosen Doc Strub, the
horse-race man, as the instrument of remak-
ing musical Los Angeles. He is certainly the
complete antithesis of Vienna's Emperor Franz-
Josef, the magnificent. Doc Strub is raw,
western and direct. And it was possibly smart
of the Met chairman, George Sloan of New
York, to suggest including Los Angeles in
the corporate name of the leading American
opera. But when it comes right down to
horse-trading we'll bet on Doc Strub. We'll
bet that the next time he gets the New Yorkers
in a smoke-filled room Los Angeles will come
out known as the home of the world's finest
opera company. Destiny is playing right into
Doc's hands. And destiny operates in strange
ways. It was perverse destiny that raised an
"uncouth barge captain" named Cornelius
Vanderbilt — whose most famous printable
statement was "the public be damned!" — to
found high society in New York. Today des-
tiny is playing another trick. But possibly
in another generation, when we are all aware
of the debt musical America owes Doc Strub,
it won't seem quite so strange that he is
known today only as the man who makes the
pari-mutuels tick.
SAM BALTER DECLARES
ATHLETES TAKE
FIRE FROM THE SUN
(Continued from page 62) The basketball
player generally regarded as the greatest of
all time is an ex-Stanford star from out of
a San Francisco high school, Angelo "Hank"
Luisetti.
Speaking of San Francisco Italians, like
Hank Luisetti, the natural transition is to
baseball. And one wonders where else in this
country, in a comparable geographical en-
tity, has there been a producing-ground for
big-league stars to compare with San Fran-
cisco's North Beach: its three DiMaggios,
headed by the nonpareil Yankee Clipper, Joe;
Crosetti, Lazzerri, Gomez, and dozens of oth-
ers? If there IS such comparable breeding-
grounds, then it might be a schoolboy play-
ground on the south side of Los Angeles
called Manchester. From this playground
sprang Mickey Owen, Steve Mesner, Bobby
Doerr, Lou Stringer, George Myatt, George
McDonald, George Metkovich, Gene Mauch,
Nippy Jones, and many another major league
ballplayer.
Of the top-drawer names in baseball, Cali-
fornia claims Ted Williams and Joe DiMaggio;
and the latest two raves, the hurler Black-
well and the slugger Kiner, are both natives
of the outskirts of Greater Los Angeles. It
is too bad Bob Feller's Van Meter is in
Iowa, but then there are many citizens of
Long Beach, which is Iowa on the Pacific,
who claim Feller, too.
If California didn't send 'em up, California
gets 'em when they come down, or when they
retire. Ty Cobb has been with us so long we
are inclined to forget that he went up to the
Big Time from Georgia. At least, we have
him now.
So many Californians, in fact, have gone up
to major league baseball that, at the moment,
the brass hats of the Pacific Coast League
are waging a strenuous fight for recognition
as a third major league.
"Pants" Rowland, the Coast League presi-
dent, is telling all who will listen that if the
baseball draft-law were rescinded so that the
West Coast could keep its baseball products
instead of sending them on up to the Na-
tional or American League, then in no time
at all the Coast League would be of equal
caliber, and major league recognition would
be automatic.
However, baseball law being what it is, it
is likely that such recognition is a good dis-
tance off. Still, there are others who say major
league baseball will come to California in a
different way: that one of the present major
league franchises will simply move to Los
Angeles or San Francisco. This is what hap-
pened in professional football, and is as in-
exorable as the tides for baseball also, ac-
cording to those who know how avidly base-
ball men follow the dollar — and considering
how many dollars are coming West.
When we asked Babe Ruth about this mo-
mentous question, we found him a bit cynical
in the matter. "When do you expect major
league baseball to be played on the West
Coast?" we asked him.
"When will they play it in the East?" he
replied.
Within the confines of this space, it is, of
course, not possible to list the many California
champions: the handball champion of the
United States, for example, Gus Lewis, is
from the Hollywood Athletic Club; the great-
est women's swimmer of all time, Ann Curtis,
is from San Francisco's Crystal Plunge; the
world's greatest badminton player, Dave Free-
man, is a Southern Californian; and the list
extends indefinitely.
Now, if the defense attorney will promise
not to mention football and the Rose Bowl
games of '46, '47, and '48, the plaintiff rests.
It's siesta time, and you can bring my
orange juice out to the sun-drenched patio.
TO
.
V-ETTE
B R A
America's most asked- for brassiere
—and most imitated, too! But only the original California designed V-ette* gives
you the genuine patented continuous Whirlpool* stitching— row after roiv of it—
for faultless support, for perfect separation. Curves you up, round, out— continues to mold
you after countless laundcrings. For between-size contours, ask for Holly-ette Whirlpool* .
Many choice fabrics in A B and C cups, $3 to $5 at fine stores everywhere.
Hollywood-Maxwell Company, 6773 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, California.
HOLLY-ETTE*
%
painting by Sen Stahl
you 11 never know until
wear a Rosenolum
the beautiful way it m)
the way it holds its si
ana its press . . . all bea
top-of-tne-craft man-tm
follow every Jxosenblum
every step even to the M
picked edges. lJiis marvi
new Jtiosenblum suit
JDirectoire collar. . . in su
100c/'o virgin wool fabr
covert 35.00 . . . gabai
49.95 . . . wonderful a
wonderful values . . .
10 to 20 . . . at fine st
Jxosenblum, JLos Aw
MAN -tailored in C a lifornia
I
MAGAZINE
YLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
* »
'"^^
ma
GOLD R
ISSUE
GOLD FEVER
C O LO R S in Hoffman's
great, new development.,,
suiting, coating and dress-weight
woolens color-coordinated in lush
Gold Rush Centennial shades.
100% virgin wool . . . mixable,
matchable, easy to sew,
Exclusive at one fine store in most
cities or write for free sample
folder. Get "California-
by-the-yard" today!
•'I
C-arsons new way with the jjurl-one-knit-two routine. ..in bold strokes down
the sleeves, iront and pockets oi this labak-si§ned dress tailored in California. In Dan Rivers
new Nailhead menswear sharkskin. Black with gold, blue with navy. Sizes 10 to 18. 22. 95
■ CASUAL CLOTHES, fourth floor.
,aMe>L
'WJb
rfw
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
IVhleSbM
Perfume: The ounce — $18.50* — other sizes lo $5.00*
Cologne: $2.75 to $8.50* 'plus ;ax.
THE CAL1FORNIAN, September, 194
GOLD!
(In honor of California s Centennial)
A hundred years ago the ox trains rolled
Over all trails into the land of gold
Poor men who empty traasuries would fill.
Rich men who would be even richer still.
Women with courage for harsh enterprise,
Children with searching wonder in their eyes,
Patient-eyed cattle with no other aim
Than serve the master till he staked his claim.
ft
ss
H
&
S
9
Z
ON THE COVER: Strike it rick
in color with a high-riding, notch-
front skirt of specially woven wool
plaid in California Centennial hues.
Contrasting blouse in Shirley's Mars
gabardine has gold nugget buttons.
By Lynn Lester, sizes 10 to 18,
about $30 at Nancy's, Hollywood;
Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis; Youn-
kers, Des Moines.
Gone is the mining camp, the frontier store.
The covered wagon roams the trails no more.
Stilled is the campfire song, the frontier fun.
Once richly laden lodes are spent and done.
A hundred years — what have they wrought? Behold
What these men started with their search for gold.
Who knows what from our questing now may spring.
Or help another hundred years to bring?
. . . CLARENCE EDWIN FLYNN
-
'A
o
z
x
9
■i
'•J
a
s
9
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary
Alice Stiffler
Edie Jones
Malcolm Steinlauf
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Frances Anderson
Alice Carey
Hazel Allen Pulling
"*' Morris Ovsey
John Grandjean
Ann Harris
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
PRODUCTION Daniel Saxon
California gold rush fashions
Gold Rush 34
Wild and Woolly 35
The Rush Is On 36
Nugget Gold 38
Discovery Red 39
Sierra Green 40
A Hat For A Head, by Virginia Scallon 42
Demurely Nostalgic 44
Siren Sweet ■. 45
Spirit of '49 50
Yesterday's Inspiration 52
Gambler's Vest .... 53
Check Your Choice 55
What To Wear in California in September 57
The Fashion of Irene 60
The Fashion of Adrian 61
Patterned For You 62
Controlling The Form Divine 64
What's New in Men's Fashions 68
California gold rush features
In The Crucible of California . . Gold and Printer's Ink 28
California Gold Brought Promise to Many 32
In California It's 41
The Quality of Change, by Kenneth Ross 54
Books and Music 56
Two Ladies In a Man's Land, by Glenn Dumke 58
California living
A House With The Freedom of Easy Living 46
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 66
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager,
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave.. LOngacre 4-02+7; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Nedom L. Angier, Jr.,
Ill W. Jackson Blvd., WAbash 9705; Detroit Office, C. Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7; Seattle Office., J. Allen Mades, 209
Seneca, Eliott 5919. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; $5.00 two years; $7.50 three
years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United States. 35c per
copy. Entered as second class matter Januarv 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles,
California, under act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 194S The Californian, Inc. Printed
in U.S. A, Reproduction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
CUSTOM-MADE COMFORT THE NU-ADJUST WAY AS MODELED
BY GLORIA MAZER, EARL CARROLL BEAUTY
AVAILABLE AT THESE STORES:
Accessory Shop, Ackley Uniform Co., Adler & Childs, Alberts, Alton-
Gately, Ann's Shop — Wewoka, Apothecary Shop, Arlene's — Decatur,
Aycock's, Samuel Bairn & Sons, Balta Dress Shop, Belk-Jones, Bellmak's,
Bernard Dress Shop, Betty Co-ed, J. H. Bigger & Son, Black & White
Stores, Boaz Dry Goods, A. L. Bogatto, Bon Marche, Boston Store,
C. O. Bowen & Co., Bradley's, Ellis Braud's Sons, Broadway Dept. Store,
Malcolm Brock & Co., Bruten & Owens, Bryant-Link, Buck Store Company,
Byron's, California Apparel Shops, Camille Hosiery, Camp Hood Exchange,
Cinderella Shop, Cobb's Dept. Stores, Collegiate Shoppe, Cornell's,
Cotton Shops, Cox Style Shops, R. E. Cox & Co., Croney's, Cummings
& Co., Dean's Dept. Store, Deverst's, Diamond Dry Goods, Diamonds —
St. Louis, Dotty Shops, Dowdy's Dept. Store, Drivers Shoppe, Dun lap
Dept. Stores, J. L. Durbin, Eastern-Columbia, Eastern Stores, Eleanor's
of Covina, Elias & Son, Sam Ellis, El Paso Chain Store, El Raye Shop,
Emporium, Famous — Antioch, Famous Dept. Stores, Famous Barr Co.,
Fashion Shop, Fern's Fashion, Fields, Fitzpatrick's, Florence — Placerville, '2
Franklin Stores, Frederick & Nelson, Gay Shops of California, George's,
Gideon-Anderson Dept. Store, A. S. Gilbert, H. J. Gingles, Globe Dept.
Store, Gloria Shops, O. F. Godfrey, Gold's Dept. Store, Golden State
Dept. Store, Good Luck Store, Grace's Style Shop, Robert L. Groff, Inc.,
Rose Gusstn Shop, Halle Bras., Harris Co., Hart's Dept. Store, Charles H.
Hebert, Herzmarks, Higgins Corset Shop, Hollywood 5tyle Shops, Ideal
Shop, Irene's of Oxnard, Irvings — San Antonio, Jan & Frans, Jay Lane
Shop, Jelleffs, Joan Shop, Jo-Anns, Joa-Rose Shop, Johnsons —
El Centro, Kahns — Oakland, Kanners Corset Shop, Kimberlins
Dept. Store, Kolberts Corset Shop, La Belle Fashion Shop, Ladies
Shop, Lambert's, La Mode, Lane's, Langston Co., F. & R. Lazarus
Co., Leader Store, Lee Shops, Inc., Leonard's, Levine & Miller,
Linda Vista Dept. Store, Little Fashion Shops, Loeb's, Lord's,
Lucille's, Luftenburg's, Macy's, Mademoiselle Shop, Maher's
Ready-To-Wear, Marie's, Mary Fay Shop, May Co., Mayfa
Shops, Melroy's, Miller Mercantile Co., Milliron's,
Minelle's Lingerie, Mirror Shops, Model Shops, William
Morris Co., Nelson's, Newell's Apparel, Normalee Shops,
Oakland Toggery, A. J. Olsen Co.,
Palais Royal, Paris Co., Pattens,
Pauline Style Shops, Payzant's,
Perkins Bros. Co., Pinky's, Per-
sonality Shops, Portis Mercantile
Co., Price's, Randolph House, A.
Rashfi, Remar's, L. G. Richardson,
Ronny's, Ronzone's, Rose Fashion
Shop, Roselyn Shop, Rosenthal's,
Rozier Mercantile Co., Rubenstein's,
Ruth's, Saffee's, Salle Ann Shops,
Inc., Sally Shops of Calif., San-
fred's, C. C. Scott, Sears Roebuck
& Co., Inc., Sam Shainberg Dry
Goods, Sherman Bros. Dry Goods
Co., Shipper's Style Shop, Smart
Shop, Sokol's, Southern Stores,
Stanley's, Sterneck's, Stockton Dry
Goods Co., Stork Shop, S. M.
Strugo, Sunny Shops, Sherwood
Swan & Co., Ltd., Swelldom, Inc.,
Town Shop, Tranfs Dress Shop,
Trude's Cotton Shop, Universal
Shop, Vade's, Vanity Shop, Vo-
dene's. Vogue, Wall's Dept. Store,
Ware Company, Watt's Ladies Store,
Weills, Weinstein Co., Inc., West-
ern Dry Goods, Whitney's, Wil-
son's, Windsor Sport Shop, Won-
der, Inc., Woodruff Ready-to-Wear,
Wyona's, Yarbro's, Yearwood's,
Younker Bros., Zuckers Corset Shop.
860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
1 3 1 1 , — ■
a
v
% *■■ '<
s
11 1 1 f
► *"* . *i
IIIIIIMII
I 1111
-ft
iM
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
Our exclusive Botany gabardine coat, design-
ed by YablokofT for Kay Saks of California
. . a "completely dressed" coat . . double
breasted to cover entirely what you wear be-
neath it . . a svelte dressmaker silhouette,
faultlessly tailored in wonderful Travel Tones
95.00
San Mateo, San Francisco, Vallejo
San Francisco
Thursday Store Hours
1 1:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Coat Salon, Third Floor
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 194 1
n
■
I-
a.
n
3
o-
«<
e
■*
3"
Designed expressly for
In supple wool crepe with matching grosgrain bands. In charcoal, taupe, forest green,
electric Hue and flame. Sizes 10—20. At $40.00
Mall orders to Neat's of California, 19 Arlington St., Jjoston 16, Massachusetts
Jclease specify second color choice
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 194!
One Woman s JLdea ol
Otorekeepmg .
One woman's dream — thought-about, planned-about for
years. A woman's hope that has now become a reality ... a shop
actually more like a friendly living room than a shop. An
intimate, Early American setting — far removed from the hustle-
bustle of today's city shopping. A lounge room and patio,
too, where you may relax over a refreshing cup of coffee. An
informal living room, really, where you're completely at home if
you're just browsing around ... or where you're certain to find,
if seeking the unusual, a wide collection of sophisticated
fashion accessories and gifts. A shop to put on the "Must-See"
list — when you're entertaining out-of-town friends in Los Angeles.
LOUELLA BALLERINO'S latest creation . . an inspired shawl
and skirt combination of superb 100% woolen . . in a multi-
color stripe with choice of brown or black predominating.
Four-gored skirt with very essential pockets, fascinator type
shawl . . both shawl and skirt hem banded in bright yarn
braid. Sizes 10 to 18 $19.95
MAIL AND PHONE ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED
Residents of California please add 2V;% state sales tax, 3%
Los Angeles.
.Personal fashion Accessories
7932 WEST 3RD ST. AT FAIRFAX, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
Buff urns'
SUN-CHARM* FASHIONS
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
"?£.en Scct&erteutd & rayon gabardine casual. Note
the hand-picked detail on the new off-the-shoulder
yoke and down the slim-hipped skirt. Deep, deep
armholes, and buttons down the back are new.
Sherwood green, smoke grey, taupe, bright red and
beige. Sizes 10 to 18, $35
MAIL ORDERS Add 2'A% State Sales Tax
*Reg. U. S. Pol. Off.
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
11
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
uzfts that bring sunny
yjalifornia to you!
MING TREE. Exquisite decorative piece for your
table or what-not shelf. Ming tree and tiny
ceramic figurine, fixed in bed of sand — all ar-
ranged in shallow ceramic tray shaped like the
outline of state of California. Gift boxea*. $1.95,
postpaid.
COPPER EARRINGS. Non-tarnishable copper in a
pair of very Western earrings, shaped like a
pair of belt buckles. Something really new in
costume jewelry. $2.35, postpaid, includes Federal
excise tax.
STAND-O-LAMP. Make your own lamp by as-
sembling your
^ favorite vase and
shade, affixing
them to this
handsome base.
Mahogany base,
brass fittings,
suitable for all
interiors. $4.50,
postpaid {does
not include vase
and shade).
NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order.
{Residents of California, please add 2/2% sales
tax).
TEE CORRAL SEOF
BOX 918 RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
Wm#»*-
GOLDEN DISC . . . this is the latest in
compact cases and evening carry-alls. Non-
tarnishable and entirely handmade of golden
thread, this case is the ideal Gold Rush
glamor highlight for you ... a perfect com- 1
plement to your gold sandals and belt. 6" \
in diameter, a handy size. (Other sizes by
request). Send orders now for Christmas de- ■
livery, and be sure to include an extra for
yourself. $5, plus 25c for mailing. Created
and sold exclusively by Lee Levere, 417 North
Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif.
DASHING DONS ... the dons of old
Spain, who settled in early California, in-j
spired this combination of suede and gold
leather. Waist-contouring design is achieved,
by three adjustable gold or silver leather
straps on suede body. The result is a new J
belt, brightening your fall wardrobe. Suede
in Gold Rush colors: Discovery Red, Sutter
Brown, Nugget Gold; and all standard fall J
colors. Sizes 24 to 32, about $5.00 at yourl
favorite store, or write Phil Sockett Mfg. j
Co., Est. 1925, 1240 South Main St., Los.
Angeles 15, Calif.
ENGLISH IMPORT ... is this beautiful)
brass-hammered repousse. Fitted as a wallji
plaque, it may also be used as the center-
piece for your coffee table, for hors d'oeuvre
plate or a giant ashtray. 12" in diameter, this
replica of an antique pictures in exact de-,
tail an English tavern scene. Heavy lacquer
finish protects it from tarnishing and scratch-
ing. An appealing present for a friend, or
just for you, they're attractively priced ati-
83.50 each, or 86.95 the pair. Send check or
money order to Irving Hamilton, 527 West
Seventh Street, Los Angeles 14, California.
IN-A-PURSE . . . organizes handbag so effi-
ciently that you can put a finger on im-
portant items in a hurry. No digging ... no
embarrassment . . . pleated pockets hold,
wallet, compact, letters, receipts, etc., right
where you want them. Transfers as a unit|
from one purse to another . . . nothing left
behind. Of durable Marvalon fabric in blue,
green or red. Specify size wanted — standard'
(9 pockets) or miniature (7 pockets). Either1
size only SI postpaid. In-A-Purse Co., 4023-B!
Cottage Grove, Des Moines, la. No C.O.D.V
ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth
Just throw it 'round the pole and zip it up!-
No more mats or makeshift napkins to blow
away in a welcome breeze. In three sharf
colors: red and white; blue and white; oil
green and white checks. Fits your garder
table, round or square. Mercerized cotton ir
smart basket weave, hand-printed; pre-laun
dered. 84.95, postage prepaid. If in Califor
nia, add 2]/£% sales tax. Matching napkins,
ready-hemmed, 18 inches wide, only 40c each
California Living, 1018 South Main St., Lo.<
Angeles 15, Calif.
12
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
EGG COZIES . . . One hundred years ago
our great grandmothers treasured egg cozies,
and homemakers today are captivated by
their quaint charm. These colorful pixie-caps
keep the eggs warm on the table, and blend
with any dining room decor. Entirely hand-
made, available in white, pink, lavender, blue,
yellow, fuchsia, green, purple, scarlet, royal
lue. Just $1.00 for three in a gift package.
Send check or money order, no C.O.D.'s
please, to Marie Farmer's Work-Box, Dept.
C, 92 Grafton St., Arlington 74, Mass.
BELT BAG ... by Jim Pack. Smartest news
for fall is this entirely handmade and hand-
stitched set . . . perfect accessory for any
costume. Belt and bag (with plenty of room
for your portables) may be worn separately
or as a unique combination. Solid brass buckle
brightens the belt and leather thongs hold
the bag snugly in place. Fall fashion colors:
Natural steer; lemon sherbert elkskin; cape-
skin in black, brown, red, or blue. 315, pre-
paid delivery. (Please add 38c for tax and
delivery in Calif.) Direct from Jim Pack,
1461 Grant Ave., San Francisco, Calif.
BRONZE BEAUTY . . . handmade originals
are these shimmering bronze kid sandals.
The bare cut and modified wedge provide
cushioned luxury for your feet. Ankle straps
can be tied fore or aft, as you choose. You'll
love these for dating, for dancing, for dress.
Suede in red, cocoa, black, white or green
(with gold piping, if you wish). Suede,
S23.50. Gold or bronze leather, $25.50. (Add
2V4% sales tax for Californians). Sizes
4 through 8, N or M. Send your order to
Dodd's of California, 1726 Bonita Ave., Bur-
bank, Calif.
CALIFORNIA '49ERS ... for your col
lection of delightful conversation pieces in
jewelry. From this Gold Rush charm brace-
let dangle perfect miniatures of nuggets,
pick, pan and shovel . . . and the tiny som-
brero lapel pin is a perfect replica from the
days of the Golden West. A precious set
for you, and just the thing for that unusual
gift. Gold plated for beauty and durability.
Only $1.00 each plus 20% luxury tax; 2%%
sales tax if in California. At the store in your
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California.
PERSONALIZED POTTERY ... to make
eating fun for the children. A colorful, dur-
able 4-piece set of dinner and butter plates,
mug and bowl . . . with your child's first
name baked into each piece. Enthusiastic
letters are received daily about this attractive
set, for it pleases parents as well as chil-
dren. Ideal for the birthday or occasional
gift. Just send child's name and sex (pattern
differs for boy and girl) with check or money
order to Johnson's China & Glass, Dept. C,
11 Court Street, Binghamton, New York. Only
$5 prepaid. Add 50c if west of the Mississippi.
THE CAIIFORNIAN, September, 1948
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
utfts in the
\jalifornia manner
1 ilM
INDIVIDUAL SALT AND PEPPERS. Four sets of
individual salt and pepper shakers to delight any
hostess. Of milled maple, in matching pairs in
shape of pineapple, ' pear, acorn, thistle. Gift
boxed in sets of four. $3.00 postpaid.
CHARM STRING. Very Californian and very col-
orful for your patio or outdoor living corner is
this gay string of gourds and simulated fruit, all
highly shellacked. $1.00 postpaid.
TINY TEPS. Step-up for the youngsters, very handy
for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, painted ply-
wood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped flat,
easily assembled. $3.95 (Add 25c for postage).
NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order.
(Residents of California, please add 2'/2% sales
tax).
THE CORRAL SHOP
BOX »I8 II HANCHO SANTA ft • CALIFORNIA
13
something new
in footwear
J6 •£
"Metronome" . . a feather-light
two strap sandal that fits like a
charm and looks like a dream.
Suede or calf, in rich autumn
shades. Sizes 3 to 10 in all
widths. To retail about $9.95.
Write us for nearest store.
FEATHERWEDGr
'Wtc'Coti
oM-seoe-orc.'
3665 Whittier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif.
FASHION DEMANDS ... the metallic
touch . . . and Dutch Girl Yarns comply,
with non-tarnishing lame for knitting and
crocheting ever-so-smart accessories. The at-
tractive evening bag illustrated is easily made,
with four spools. This 3-ply Dutch Girl Lame
comes in 75-yard spools, in gold, silver and
copper for about $1.00 a spool. These and
other Dutch Girl Yarns are at The Broadway
Dept. Store, Los Angeles, other department
stores and yarn shops. Or write direct to I
The Bridgeton Co. Inc., Metro Station Box
5280, Los Angeles 55, Calif.
STOP THAT PEEKING . . . Here's the
new No-Peek-O, the smart streamlined alu-
minum set that prevents peeking in gin i
rummy and other card games. It keeps the
cards in neat order, and the cleverly de-
signed felt base protects your table top and
prevents slipping. You'll want several for
yourself and for unusual gifts. They're at-
tractively packaged and available in beauti-
ful shades of blue, green or red. Postpaid,
only $1.00. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. Order direct
from the Balas Manufacturing Company, 3804
Woodland Ave., Cleveland 15, Ohio.
WILLYS OF HOLLYWOOD . . . creates
the Hideaway, a unique gossamer-sheer stock-
ing, with handmade zipper pocket in the top I)
for mad money, key, lipstick, compact or I
jewels. Exquisite hosiery of Dupont nylon,
with or without seams. 54 gauge, 15 or 20
denier. Newest fall shades: smokecloud, au- i
tumn brown, bronze tone, gunmetal, navy,
black, topaz, green, Bermudana, negrita. Sizes
8 to 11, made to order. $5.00 a pair, at May
Company Wilshire, Los Angeles, and other
fine stores. Or write Willys of Hollywood,
1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
QUAINTLY QUILTED . . . yes, the buckle I
is actually quilted in this newer than new
version of what to wear around your middle.
This belt, about 2%" wide and made of the
finest gold kidskin . . . wears well with tweeds
and silks alike. Comes in sizes 24 to 32, and
costs approximately $5.00 at leading stores
across the country. If not available at your
favorite stoie, write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co.,
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main Street, Los An- i
geles, California.
SALAD MISTRESS . . . you'll want for
yourself, and for your friends, this six-piece
set of California pottery. It includes oil and
vinegar cruets, mustard jar with cover and
spoon, salt and peppers, all on an easy-to-
handle plastic tray. Colors to match your :
kitchen, patio or barbecue: Red and white;
maroon and green; blue and white; or tur-
quoise and yellow. Just $2.00 plus 25c for
mailing if outside of California. Add 2l/2%
sales tax (5c) for California delivery. Or-
ders are promptly filled by Fred L. Seymour '
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
14
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
America Is All Agog"
* for ginger ale budgets"
It's the strapless, wire- less wonder from glamourous
Hollywood — that "keeps up for keeps."Jhe dainty nylon leno
lastex embraces you firmly but so gently . . . allows you to
b-r-e-a-t-h-e. Like magic, the delicate, comfortable Warren
featherboning achieves an alluring contour. Cups are wispy nylon
voile. Available in angelic white or sultry black. A, Band C cup sizes.
WRITE FOR NAME OF NEAREST RENEE DEALER, about *3.50
743 SANTEE STREET, LOS ANGELES 14, CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
15
From California:
Allardale of The Beverly
Wilshire Hotel presents
two exciting new orig-
inals by MEREDITH ;
fashion pace-setters from
the current fall collection
of THE HOUSE OF
MEREDITH.
Extreme right: PROS-
PECTOR'S PONY is
Meredith's salute to the
California Gold Rush
Centennial. Featuring
dolman sleeves and pen-
cil slim skirt, and taking
its color cue from a
Pinto pony this creation
truly represents the de-
signing skill of Mere-
dith. It comes in a com-
bination of three colors:
black with white and am-
bertone. Sizes 10-18.
$89.95.
The West's smartest specialty shop.
Directly above: TWO-TIMER. A double duty sleek fitting
dress which boasts two interchangeable button-on mid-
riffs. Black wool with butterscotch wool jersey midriff
for daytime wear and companion metallic midriff for
cocktail and dinner wear. Shown at left. Sizes 10-18.
$79.95 — includes both midriffs.
Both styles in Cohama's "Request" sheer wool crepe.
MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED
BEVERLY WILSHIRE HOTEL, BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA, CR 1-9413 ^^T/^^%/
arda
16
THE CAIIFORNIAN, September, 1948
Jj0*^*a* M0L
LYWOOO
•Trademark Reg.
XJLj^fl^*^ Creations from Hollywood, where figures are fortunes. Roll on, split hip, girdle
and panty girdle, two-way stretch nylon power net Jjzikpo panels combined with vertical
stretch nylon satin JjilkjO Damsel insert in back panel for comfort and fit, smooth flat
fagoted front seams, nude or black. Size 14, 15, 16, petite, small, medium and large. About
$13.50. At Better Stores.
l\7 EAST 8TH STREET • LOS ANGELES 14, CALIFORNIA
HE CAU FORN I AN , September, 194;
17
/
.'/
\
A NEW NAME...
A NEW LINE
Pu C4nn£ Ci£t
Sell for $15° to $25°
AT FINE STORES OR WRITE
all that the name implies .. .traditionally fine
Anne Alt workmanship and quality.
Nude, white, black, blue. Sizes 32 to 38.
A. B. C. cups; contour stitched beneath bust.
Cmm, ClOt
COMPTON CALIFORNIA
18
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
Your first fall suit is important
when it's designed by a master craftsman of supple sheen gabardine in a rainbow hue of autumn shades.
Carefully detailed, with rounded bobby collar, self-covered buttons, and for side interest, two great pockets.
Sold at such fine stores as
May Co., Bullock's, Bullock's Wilshire, Los Angeles;
The Emporium, San Francisco; Capwell's, Oakland.
For store nearest you write Irving Schechter,
719 So. Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 14, Calif.
Miss Joan Leslie, lovely motion picture star, will soon be seen in
Culver Pictures, "Northwest Stampede."
From a group by
719 SOUTH LOS ANGELES ST. • LOS ANGELES 14, CALIFORNIA
California Centennial
Collections for Yall
executed in these magnificent new Gold Rush Colors
SCOVtRY
NUGGET GOLD
cot***
S»E*RA GREEN
oviN
II
ONE HUNDRED YEARS SINCE THE
DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN CALIFORNIA!
INSPIRATION FOR IMAGINATIVE
ORIGINALS FASHIONED BY
CALIFORNIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED
& yU(» x^iwj
S MADE BY
CREATORS-TRIBUTE TO THE GALA
CALIFORNIA CENTENNIAL YEAR
CELEBRATION. FEATURED BY
LEADING DEPARTMENT AND SPECIALTY
STORES IN YOUR CITY.
(tialaxB
Seven muted colors inspired by famous
French tapestries. Featured in Whirlaway,
Revoree Sheer, Cathay and Dull-Ora . . .
all famous Mallinson fabrics. Available in
fine ready-to-wear and fabric by the yard.
NATIONAl MALLINSON FABRICS CORPORATION
1071 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS, NEW YORK 18
CHICAGO • LOS ANGELES • SAN FRANCISCO • SEATTLE
II
3
3
to
s
ft-
ft- a
0a ^
S o
.3
in
a
a o 3
3
you look your best
when you look for
a DAN RIVER fabric
And you look wonderfully casual wearing
a California suit of a Dan River rayon.
The fabric is a crisp suiting that takes to tailoring
. . . resists wrinkles, always keeps its shape.
Dan River Mills, Inc.
Suit by Tabak of California in brown,
blue, or charcoal. Sizes 10 to 18. About $23
at the Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis;
J. L. Brandeis & Sons, Omaha;
A. Harris & Co., Dallas.
tlTL of san francisco
does town coats that do
things for you . . . this one
with exciting flattering lines
and a brilliant new use of
buttons comes in Lippitt
superb gabardine . . .
plush red, cavalier green,
weskit grey, California beige,
mascara brown, Tosca blue
and black . . . Sizes 10 to 20
. . . about eighty-nine dollars
... at Davison-Paxon Co.
Atlanta, Ga. and
fine stores everywhere.
"of san francisco"
city of sophisticates and superlatives
... of longest bridges and
suddenest hills, and
fairest flowers
and smartest women.
RELu PHOTO-JOHN FREDERICS HAT
FOR NAME Of STORE NEAREST TO YOU. WRITE LILL1 ANN. 973 MARKET STREET. SAN FRANCISCO
NOW YOU CAN BUY
ALABAMA: Kessler's and Parisian, Birm-
ingham.
ARIZONA: Goldwaters, Phoenix; Von
Steinwehr Co., Tucson.
ARKANSAS: Pfeifer Bros., Little Rock.
CALIFORNIA: Alma's Corset Shoppe, Stock-
ton; Ames & Harris, Santa Maria; Ander-
son's Specialty Shop, Susan vi lie; Leora
Blesslnger, Temple City; Broadway-Holly-
wood and Bullock's, Los Angeles; Grace
Campbell Shops, San Francisco; Cavanaugh
Surgical Co., San Jose; Cooper's Dept.
Store, Fresno; Cornell's, Santa Monica;
Corset Shop, Sacramento; Coulters, Los An-
geles; Dorel's, Berkeley; The Duchess, Van
Nuys; Thelma Edmunds, A I ham bra; Esther's
Shop, Richmond; Mrs. Althea V. Godfrey,
Ventura; Grace Shop, Visa! la; Alfred Gray,
Pomona; Laura Green Co., Glendale;
Hamels Ladies Shop, Riverside; Pearl Han-
cock Corset, Bakersfield; C. H. Hittenberger
Co. , San Francisco & Oakland; Hoi man's
Pacific Grove; Kimball & Stone, Bakersfield;
Ann S. Kincaid, Taft; Samuel Leask & Sons,
Santa Cruz; Louise Corset Shop, Sacramento;
McGaffey Girdle Shop, Los Angeles; Fran-
cis Mahler Corset, Salinas; The Marston Co.,
San Diego; T. W. Mather Co., Pasadena;
Barclay Surgical, Long Beach; Morris &
Morrill Co., San Francisco; Myers Dept.
Store, Whittier; North Park Corset Shop,
San Diego; Princess Shop, Ingle wood, Ran-
kin Dry Goods Co., Santa Ana; Thelma
Richardson, San Jose; Rileys Dry Goods, San
Luis Obispo; Rose Sorini, Berkeley; Sperry
Corset Shop, Modesto; Toney's Girdle Shop,
Los Angeles; Town Shop, Corona; Town
Shop, Turlock; Vivian's, Redding; Wheelers
Corset Shop, San Francisco; WMshire Carthay
Corset, Los Angeles; Wineman's, Hunting-
ton Park; Eve Young, San Mateo.
COLORADO: Anderson's, Eaton; C. C. An-
derson Co., Pueblo; Cates Smart Shop,
Aurora; Corset Shop, Greeley; Day Jones
Co., Pueblo; Denver Dry Goods, Denver;
Eudora Shop, Lamar; Helen Ann Corset, Col-
orado Springs; Joslin Dry Goods Co.,
26
Denver; Julian's, Ft. Collins; Le-Lavonne
Shop, Trinidad; NaDean's, Ft. Morgan;
Pueblo Surgical Supply, Pueblo; Pullen's,
Boulder; The Vogue Shop, Longmont.
DELAWARE: Kennard-Pyle Co., Wilmington,
Del.
D. Ci Julius Garfinckel & Co., Kellogg Cor-
set Shop, Whelans, Washington, D. C.
FLORIDA: Burdine's, Inc., Miami; Corenes,
Orlando; Dudley Corset, Miami; Furchgott's,
Jacksonville; Habors, Tampa; Betty Harris,
Miami Beach; Richard Store Co., Miami;
Belle Smolin, Miami Beach.
HAWAII: Norman Jemal, M. Mclnerny, Ltd.,
The Silhouette Shop, Honolulu, T. H.
IDAHO: C. C. Anderson, Boise; C. C. An-
derson Co., Lewiston; Classic Shop, Rexburg;
The Dee Frock Shop, Rupert; Martha Gil I is,
Blackfoot; Hales Ladies Apparel Shop,
Twin Falls; Lee & Hanson, Idaho Foils;
Luthy's, Preston; Model Shop, Wallace; Pack-
ard Corset Shop, Boise; Shears, Caldwell;
Stryans, Nampa; Style Shop, Burley,- Style
Shop, Coeur d'Alene; Sydney-Talley Shop,
Pocatello; Zimmerman's, Twin Falls.
ILLINOIS: Bafford Famise Shop, Decatur;
Lela Bafford's Corset Shoppe, Lincoln; Block
& Kuhl Co., Peoria; Famise Corset Salon,
Gales burg; Glennon & McNeil, Jo Met; The
GNk Co., Madison; Glove Stores, Inc., Chi-
cago 2; Mrs. Grace Helms, McComb; Lena
Linquist, Monmouth; Loeber's, Inc., Chica-
go; Miss A. Morrissey, Galesburg; Myers
Bros., Springfield; Schanuel & West rich,
Belleville; Seidel's Apparel Co., E. St.
Louis; Edgar A. Stevens, Inc., Evanston.
INDIANA: L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis;
Burnett Corset Shop, Michigan City; Droste
Corset Shop, Joan's Hosiery Shop, Evans-
ville; Page Boy Co., Indianapolis; George
Wyman & Co., South Bend.
IOWA: Craemers, Cedar Rapids; Anna Held,
Des Moines; Killian Co., Cedar Rapids; M.
L. Parker Co., Davenport; Parsons Store,
Redfield; J. F. Stampfer Co., Dubuque;
Strub-Wareham, Inc., Iowa City; Younker
Bros., Inc., Des Moines.
KANSAS: Band Box Dress Shop, Elkhart;
Aladdin Shop, lola; Boyce Shop, Hutch-
inson; Buck's Dry Goods Co., Inc., Wich-
ita; Pansy Butler, St. John; Campbell's,
Oberlin; Christie Corset Shop, Wichita;
Crosby Bros., Topeka; Doris Shop, Ktowa;
Eckles Bros. Dept Store, Dodge City; Shoppe
Elite, Hugoton; Fashion Shop, Oakley;
Gibson's Style Shop, Lindsborg; Harris Ap-
parel, El Dorado; Howard's, Lyons; Geo.
Innes Co., Wichita; Jewells, Greenburg;
Jo-Lene Shoppe, St. Francis; Beulah Kile,
Neodesha; Kimball's, Newton; Lischesky
Dry Goods Co., Great Bend; Logan's Style
Shop, Beloit; Lullabye Shop, Parsons; Mc-
Cormick Corset Dept., Wichita; Pegues-
Wright Dry Goods Co., Hutchison; James A.
Poole Dry Goods, Emporia; Princess Style
Shop, Colby; Ramsay Bros. Dry Goods,
Atchison; W. W. Virtue Store, Norton; Win-
field Walker, Coffeyville; Weavers Dept.
Store, Lawrence.
KENTUCKY: Besten & Langen, Greenup &
Whelan, Louisville; Mitchell, Baker, Smith
Co., Lexington; Vogue Shop, Madisonville.
LOUISIANA: Anticipation Shop, Shreveport;
Masur Bros., Inc., Monroe; Ochsner Clinic,
AT YOUR
FAV O R I T E
STORE
New Orleans; Weiss & Goldring, Alexan-
dria.
MARYLAND: Charles St. Corsetieres and
Hutzler Bros Co., Baltimore.
MASSACHUSETTS: Berman's, Chelsea; Elaine
Claire, Boston; Forbes & Wallace, Spring-
field; Jordan Marsh Co., Boston; Wards
Quality Shop, Fitchburg.
MICHIGAN: Virginia Dare Stores and The
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit; J. W. Knapp,
Lansing; W. R. Knepp & Co., Bay City;
Hedwig S. Krumm, Sturgis; Katharine Stevens
Shop, Flint; Van Buren Shop, Ann Arbor.
MINNESOTA: Dayton Co., Minneapolis; Em-
porium, St. Paul; Hazel F. Heiberg, Du-
luth; C. F. Massey Co., Rochester; Patter-
son Surgical Supply, and Schuneman's, St.
Paul.
MISSOURI: Barrels Mercantile Co., Cape
Girardeau; Florence Berry, Kirksville; Bon
Ton Shop, Monett; Rosa M. Bridges,
Springfield; Carol's Womens Wear and
Miss Carr's Style Shop, West Plains; Christ-
man Dry Goods Co., Joplin; Farrar's, 218
Plaza Theatre Bldg., Kansas City; Frances
Lorraine Shop, Carrallton; Garfiinkles, Pop-
lar Bluff; Hackers, Bolivar; Hirsch Bros. Dry
Goods, St. Joseph; Ireland Shop, Chi II i-
cothe; W. E. Isle Co., Kansas City; Kings,
Stockton; Love's Lingerie, Kirkwood; Mil-
jon Shop, Albany; M. Netter Dry Goods Co.,
Springfield; Geo. B. Peck, Inc., Kansas
City; Ritzie Style Shop, Frederickstown;
Stix, Baer & Fuller Co., St. Louis; John
Taylor Dry Goods, Kansas City; Anna Vac-
caro Corset Shop, St. Louis; Woodside
Style Shop, Ironton.
MONTANA: Anderson Style Shop, Kalispell;
Browning Merc. Co., Browning; Hazel's Style
Shop, Dillon,- Marion Herbert Conet Shop,
Lewistown; Moris-Stella Shop, Helena; Miller
Dry Goods Co., Columbus; Paris of Montana,
Great Falls; Ida Pearson Shop, Missoula;
Phelan Corset Shop, Billings; Sara Jane
Shop, Shelby; Murial Selby Corset Shop,
Butte.
NEBRASKA: Basketts Dress Shop, Neligh;
Beverly Store, Norfolk; Carman's, Omaha;
Chapman's Style Shop, York; Conner Ap-
parel Shop, Stratton; Corner Style Shop,
Broken Bow; Creighton's Store, Trenton; De-
Graffs, McCook; Evans Style Shop, Lexing-
ton; The Fair Store, Norfolk; Marguerite
Freeman, Geneva; Greenless, Sidney; Hazel's
Shoppe, Benkelman; Hovland-Swanson, Lin-
coln; Thomas Kilpatrick & Co., Omaha;
Marsons, Inc., Fremont; Martha Ann Shop,
Cozad; Mary Morrow Shop, Scottsbluff;
Natelson's, Omaha; O'Connor Dept, Store,
North Platte; Princess Shoppe, Sidney;
Rudy's, Foils City; Ruters Fashion Shop,
Kearney; Seiler Surgical Co., Omaha; Val-
lier Dress Shop, Ashland.
NEVADA: Burge Lloyd Surgical Co., Reno.
NEW JERSEY: M. E. Blatt Co., Atlantic City;
Corset Box, Asbury Park; Gossard Corset
Shop, Plainfield; Mildred's Corset Shop,
Newark; Tuckers, Long Branch.
NEW MEXICO: Bacas Haberdashery, Socor-
ro; Dillons, Clovis; El Encanto Shop, Las
Cruces; Emporium Store, Santa Fe; Forson
Ready To Wear, Portales; Hart Dress Shop,
Espanola; Allen W. Hinkle Dry Goods Co.,
Albuquerque; Inn as, Santa Fe; Kistler-
Collister, Albuquerque; Modernee Shop,
Farmington; Myrtices Shop, Carlsbad; Vogue
Shop, Albuquerque; Vogue Shop, Artesia.
NEW YORK: Abraham & Strauss, Inc.,
Brooklyn; Adam, Meldrum & Anderson,
Buffalo; Bloomingdale's, New York; Wm.
Hengerer Co., Buffalo; Roberts Corset Shop,
Port Richmond, Staten Is.; Westwood Phar-
macol Corp., Buffalo.
NORTH CAROLINA: Arcade Fashion Shop,
Winston-Salem; Belk's, New Bern; Belk
Stores, Greensboro; Margaret Johnson Cor-
set, Raleigh; Ramsey-Bowles Co., States-
ville; The Spainhour Co., Hickory.
NORTH DAKOTA: Charnholm Dept. Store,
Bottineau; Ellison's, Minot; Virginia Flora
Corset Show, % Stare Without A Name,
Fargo; Hosmer's Store, Dunseith; A. W.
Lucas, Bismarck; Norby Dept. Store, Grand
Forks.
OHIO: Kathryn S. Bell, Inc., Columbus;
Carlisle Allen Co., Painesville; Bonita Conn,
Dayton; Fashion Co., Columbus; Fidelity
THE CALIFORN1AN, September, 1948
Style #5 23 — designed with special
CONTROL=LIFT to give a smooth, flatter*
ing l'ne to the full, mature figure.
• Comes in over 600 different sizes . . . custom
fit to individual measurements.
• Bias cup with diagonal tucking and V
construction tor comfortable uplift.
• Continuous straps from Base of front to back,
lined to prevent rolling or cutting.
• l=inch adjustment in back.
Made of rayon and cotton jacquard Colors:
Nude, White, Black. Also in plain Batiste.
Medical Supply Co., Dayton; Frank Bros.,
j Marion; Gail G. Grant, Painesville; Loe-
, ber's, Cincinnati; Loeber's, Cleveland; Mary
I Margaret Corset Co., Cincinnati; May Co.,
] Cleveland; A. J. Olsen Co., E. Liverpool;
, Rike-Kumler Co., Dayton.
, OKLAHOMA: Brown-Durtkin Co., Ginny's
I Specialty 5hop and Seidenbach's, Tulsa;
J Sylvia's, Oklahoma City.
, OREGON: Adrienne's, Medford; Astoria Ap-
: parel, Astoria; Coos Bay Gown Shop, North
; Bend; Corset Clinic, Baker; Fashion Center,
j Roseburg; Georgann's Corset Shop, Corval-
| Ms; Golden Rule Store, Grants Pass; Had-
ley. Inc., Eugene; Howard Corset Shop,
Salem; (Catherine's Shop, Freewater; Kath-
| ryn's, Pendleton; Miller Mercantile Co., Eu-
gene; Olds, Wortman & King, and Shaw
Surgical Co., Portland; Simon's Ready To
Wear, Oregon City; Town Shop, Klamath
Falls; Weitzel's, Ashland; John Wetle Co.,
Bend.
PENNSYLVANIA: Brills, Lansford; Sophie W.
Franke, Pittsburgh; Hess Bros., Allentown;
Joseph Home Co., Pittsburgh; Morahan's,
Wilkes-Barre; Strawbridge & Clothier Co.,
Philadelphia; P. Wiests Sons, York; Louis
Yellin, Inc., Philadelphia.
RHODE ISLAND: Shartenbergs, Pawtucket.
SOUTH DAKOTA: Gutterman's, Flandreau;
Flemings, Huron; Fowler-Crum-Perdue, Hot
Springs; A. E. Lucas, Pierre; Model Hat
Shop, Hot Springs; Shriver-Johnson Co.,
Sioux Falls; 5mart Shop, Custer; The Wom-
an's Shop, Rapid City.
TENNESSEE: Bry Block Mercantile Corp., and
J. Goldsmith & Sons Co., Memphis; G. J.
Grimes Co., Nashville; Legg's Beauty Shop,
Martin; Loveman's Inc., Chattanooga; B.
Lowenstein & Bros., Memphis.
TEXAS: Park Bishop Co., El Paso; Thelma
K. Brill, Houston; A. P. Cary Co., Ft.
Worth; Elite Corset Shop, Texas City; The
Fair, Ft. Worth; The Fashion Shop,
Gainesville; Foley Bros, Houston; W. A.
Green Co., Dallas; Lee Medical Supply Co.,
Abilene; Abe M. Lewis, Houston; Mollies
Style Shop, El Paso; Mother To Be Shop,
Midland; Page Boy, Dallas; Popular Dry
Goods Co., El Paso; Prelude Maternity Shop,
Jacksonville; Renfro Drug Co., Inc., Aus-
tin; Theresa Sampson, Galveston; Sommers
Drug Co., San Antonio; Terrell Supply Co.,
Ft. Worth; Terry Farris, Edinburg.
UTAH: C. C. Anderson Co., Logan; Auer-
boch Co. and LaRies Shop, Salt Lake City;
Lewis Ladies Store, Provo; Makoff, Salt
Lake City; The Orchid Shop, Ogden; The
Paris Co., Salt Lake City; RoLan's, Ogden;
Rosona Shop, Richfield; Style Shop, Helper.
WASHINGTON: C. C. Anderson Stores Co.,
Richland; Bon Marche, Spokane,- Browne's
Store, Grand Coulee; The Fisher Co., Ta-
coma; Frederick & Nelson, Seattle; Gaines
Corset Shop, Wenatchee; Garners, Spokane,-
Goff's Apparel, Centralia; Knettle Corset
Shop, Tacoma; Paulson's Salon, Olympia;
Ramsay's, Vancouver; Rose Shop, Yakima;
Rumbaugh-McLain, Everett; Show Supply
Co., Seattle; Elizabeth Wessels Corset,
Spokane.
WISCONSIN: McNeany's, Beloit; Harry S.
Manchester, Inc., Madison; Milwaukee Bos-
ton Store, Milwaukee.
WYOMING: Dobbin's Women's Wear,
Cheyenne; Hetts Co., Rock Springs; Kings,
Rawlins; Mary Jane Shop, Laramie; ding-
ers, Lusk; Quality Shop, Casper; Union
Mercantile Co., Rock Springs; Vetas Store,
Torrington.
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
27
In the Crucible of California . . . Cold and Printer's Ink
AN ANCIENT PRESS, A QUININE BOTTLE AND GOLD CHANGED THE COURSE OF HISTORY IN THE WEST
by william j. bowen
his is the romance of a printing press
that was already old when our story
begins. It is the story of California's
first printing press which recorded one
of the world's great news scoops . .
seven weeks late.
It is the story of a Yankee printing
press that served Don Agustin V. Zamo-
rano and the Mexican government of
California before it set about to record the discovery
of gold and follow the miners from placer to placer
and from boom town to boom town. Like the stories of
so many of the miners themselves, it ends in tortuous
violence and passes into anonymous obscurity.
Its high moment was reached when it was in the
service of California's first newspaper, The Californian.
On March 15, 1848, it scooped the world on the biggest
news break of the middle nineteenth century. This may
appear hardly surprising, however, since the thing hap-
pened in its own frontier backyard. But actually, The
Californian did not get around to reporting its scoop
until more than seven weeks after the event, and even
then buried it in an eleven-line story at the bottom of
page two. The old, worn-out press stubbornly ground
out the copies, as insensitive as its editors to the history
it was recording under the simple head, "Gold Mine
Found."
Gold Mine Found.— In the newly
made raceway of the Saw Mill recently
erected by Captain Sutter, on the Ameri-
can Fork, gold has been found in consider-
able quantities. One person brought thirty
dollars worth to New Helvetia, gathered
there in a short time. California, no doubt,
is rich in mineral wealth ; great chances
here for scientific capitalists. Gold has
been found in almost every part of the
country.
It took Sam Brannan's quinine bottle, two months
later, to awaken the world to the full significance of the
story. But the Gold Rush was on. Publishers and printers
alike abandoned their weather-beaten old press and
scurried off for the Mother Lode country, a jump ahead
of their subscribers. All San Francisco followed. This
was not the first nor yet the last, time that its creaking
timbers had been jettisoned by its owner or left to the
hardships of gathering dust and loneliness. Hardship
was second nature to it.
The Spanish rule of California which had begun in
1769 had given way to Mexican rule in 1822. Three
years later there came to California from Mexico one
Don Agustin V. Zamorano in the service of the govern-
ment. He was destined to become a statesman,' soldier,
craftsman and, to our special interest, California's first
printer.
In about 1829 Zamorano contracted with a Yankee
sea captain to pick up a printing press for him; but it
was not until 1832 that it arrived around the Horn, and
1834 before anything was printed on it (possibly be-
cause there were no printers to be had; possibly be-
cause the scanty fonts of type were as worn and hoary
as the weather-beaten old press). The remarkable piece
of machinery which was delivered to Zamorano, and
which was destined to serve as historian of the Gold
Rush era, was a sad instrument of the graphic art even
for that day. Its massive, upright wooden frame, heavy
stone bed and huge iron screw were reminiscent of Ben-
jamin Franklin's earliest crude equipment. Bearing the
trade name Ramage, it was unquestionably among the
very first presses to have been manufactured on the
American continent. It cost Zamorano $460, including
the sea captain's fee. The Boston trader who supplied
it had craftily filled the order, at that safe distance,
from the meanest second-hand equipment available.
Nevertheless, whatever its full life in staid Boston may
have been, it embarked in its old age on as rugged a
career of adventure as any of the pioneers whose lives
it chronicled for the next twenty years.
When it finally got going, the old Ramage turned out
Mexican government documents, books, tell-tale letter-
heads and commercial printing. But after two years of
preserving in ink the family names of Pico and Sepul-
veda, and striking off Alvarado's famed Declaration of
Independence of Alta California, Zamorano -left Cali-
fornia hastily and the press, recording its contemporary
history the while, fell into the hands of the revolutionists
after the fall of the presidio at Monterey. It changed
hands several times, traveled to Sonoma and back to
Monterey, then disappeared. "It was junked in a deserted
adobe," historian Carl Wheat wrote, "and when the
Americans arrived in
July, 1846, this moth-
eaten exponent of
latter-day culture had
been almost com-
pletely forgotten."
But among the invading Yankees were the Reverend
Walter Colton and "Doctor" Robert Semple, who turned
up the dust-covered, rusting hulk. Whereupon they re-
paired its mouse-eaten ink balls, scoured its aging
frame, oiled its creaking joints and forthwith founded
The Californian, California's first newspaper. Back from
its retirement, the old press reverted to English, its na-
tive tongue.
The first issue, printed on cigarette wrapping paper,
was out in August 1846 (its centennial anniversary saw
the birth of The Californian Magazine). But this was
not until two days after Commodore Stockton had made
big news by defeating the Californians and raising the
American flag over the pueblo of Los Angeles for the
first time. This disturbed Colton and Semple not a whit,
as the news did not reach Monterey until three weeks
Eureka! Emigrants were lured by posters and!
decorated cards giving notice of sailings by!
fast clipper ship to the gold fields of Cali-f
fornia. 117 days was labeled rapid transit.!
28
: INCISCO
IKING
l ft.. )« E*-* Zini.
r.W ifl
TO SAN FRANCISCO
LOOKOUT
«HTrr,».m «.-...«. .„..„
rim MAGNIFICENT CLIPPEB FOE SAN FEAKCISCO.
iLIFORNIA
i
111— »*T — j.'-,7&"
115. Ul, 105 and 116 S
SAN FRA-NCX§eO.
4«i
SEA SERPE
I ■.„»- loading il i a >» &t R
I & Cos Dispatch Line (or San Francisco.
[Ions a - -
.1,
LYING SCUD,
; WW ■ 7- BjHgBjj jt 00„ 88 V*U St., t*w »»
Coleman's Galifornia Line.
CLIPPER OF SEPTEMBER 17th.
TIIK ELEGANT AND FAMOUS CLIPPER sniP
ail
■%*
Pray, Commander, is at Pier 15 East liiver, receiving cjxgo, and will sail
promptly as above. Eates •strietiy A No. 1, and made the passage in 117 dajs.
WM. T.COLEMAN & CO., 88 Wall St.
fcSflgJW*!^
'4jfr
AT PIER 11 E.R.,
RRA HEfABA
WM. T. COtOU* ft CO.. 88 W«ll ft-, Twrtau BttiWfnR
18 RECEIVING Ht» CAffCO AT
COM3TOCKS CLIPPER LINE FOR BAN .F.rtANC 1SCG !
V
O*
GOLDEN CAT
TKOEKTHLXw Coauaiadar. FTER lO KA3T aSVEJt
&AJTL G. BSKD 4 CO., 47 ?
later anyhow, and in good time for California's first
"Extra" to be printed.
Colton and Semple were a formidable team. The Rev.
erend Colton was naval chaplain and alcalde
of Monterey, which office Wheat has described as
"mayor, city council, justice-of-the-peace, grand "and
petit jury, high court of appeals, both criminal and
civil, minister of public works, guardian of public
morals, adviser to the wayward, confessor of the love-
lorn, and general civic factotum." On the side Colton
saw fit to tax drunks and gamblers to finance Colton
Hall, famed as the seat of the constitutional convention
of 1849, and over which Semple presided as president.
"Doctor" Semple had been one of the leaders of the
ill-conceived Bear Flag Revolt . . eventually became
California's first real-estate promoter. Partner Colton
described him as "an emigrant from Kentucky, who
stands six-foot eight . . he is in buckskin dress, a fox-
skin cap ; is true with his rifle, ready with his pen and
quick at the type case."
Less than a year before The Calif ornian s historic
scoop on the discovery of gold, Semple put the hoary
relic aboard a sailing vessel and moved the office to
Yerba Buena, which was about to be renamed San Fran-
cisco. In the meantime, Sam Brannan . . he of the
quinine bottle . . had already arrived. Landing in San
Francisco, he brought with him aboard the Brooklyn
not only 300 Mormon settlers to double San Francisco's
population, but complete equipment for a print shop
as well. The shiny press might have put a less stalwart
old hulk to shame. But not Zamorano's Ramage. It
went on both recording and being a part of the Gold
Story as Brannan's slick press never did. Nevertheless,
while he was off with General Fremont, Brannan started
a newspaper called the California Star. Thus Califor-
nia's first newspaper, The Californian, became San Fran-
cisco's second. The rivalry was none too cordial. Bran-
nan's Star called it "... a dim, dirty little paper . . .
published by Walter Colton and Robert Semple, the
one a lying sycophant, and the other an overgrown
lickspittle." However, sycophant and lickspittle soon
gave up their interests and in rapid succession the news-
paper and its mighty engine of industry changed hands
three times.
But The Californian hardly had time to record the
ratification of the treaty between the United States and
Mexico, making California a possession of the United
States, when the editors and printers were off to the
gold fields, along with those of the Star, leaving the
ancient contrivance to neglected idleness.
Not for long, however. For on July 15, The Cali-
fornian staff returned briefly to throw together a special
edition (see cut), explaining: "The suspension of this
paper has not occurred for want of materials or pe-
cuniary means, but alone from the sudden, exciting
change which has occurred since the discovery of the
extensive gold mines in the Sierra Nevada . . and wish-
ing to collect a little of that which 'glistens' ourselves,
renders the suspension obvious to all."
The Californian s modest, page two scoop, however,
had been too meek to really incite the incredulous
sceptics into a Gold Rush of fever pitch. It remained
for shrewd businessman Sam Brannan to add the neces-
sary showmanship. In May, two months after the first
report of the discovery in The Californian, and four
months after the actual discovery, Brannan, the young
Mormon publisher who by now was a storekeeper at
CALIFORNIAN.
SAN FRANCISCO, JULY IS, 1848.
ICP VVe introduce the " Californium" (o
oor patrons to-day, believing alter tbo tem-
porary suspension, aoil the important news
which it contains, it will be welcomed and
read with interest, both at home and abroad.
Tbo suspension of this paper has not oc-
curred for want of materials or pecuniar/
means, but alone from tho sudden, exciting
change which has occurred since the dis-
covery of tbo extensive gold mines in the
Sierra Nevada. Many of our subscribers
and agents have left tbeir usual placea of
abode, and the means of conveyance has
boon cut off from many parts of California,
and wishing to collect a little of that which
"glisteos" ourselves, renders the suspension
obvious to all. As soon as tho people
return to their business and homes, or bo-
como settled and have a location, wo will
resume the Californian, as formerly. But
during tho temporary suspension, we mny
present our readers occasionally with an
issue to gratify their mental appetites.
Editors and printers of California's
first newspaper, The Californian, raced
their subscribers to the mother lode
country to get their share of "that
which glistens." But they came back
in July to print this one issue ex-
plaining suspension of publication.
Meanwhile Zamorano's printing press
gathered dust before resuming its ro-
mantic adventures in the gold country.
FROM ORIGINAL AT HUNTINGTON LIBRARY
James Marshall discovered gold
on January 24, 1848 . . 5
in Captain Sutter's raceway .
. . . but Sam Brannan really
started the mad rush with his
quinine bottle of fine gold.
Sutter's Fort, took his famous quinine bottle full of gold
to San Francisco where he gathered excited crowds about
him in the streets and touched off the get-rich-quick mad-
ness that spread around the world. To be sure that it
spread fast and far, he engaged in one of history's most
spectacularly successful advertising stunts. He had a
special edition of the Star prepared and dispatched two
thousand copies by special overland express to "the
States."
California's first public school had opened in April
in a little redwood schoolhouse in San Francisco. But
within two weeks after Brannan's exhibition in the city
streets, its 37 students had dwindled to eight, and the
one remaining member of the school board suggested to
its distinguished and scholarly teacher, Thomas Douglas,
that they shut up shop and be off to the diggings . .
which was accomplished forthwith. Six months later,
Zamorano's remarkable treasure of antiquity printed a
hollow advertisement which cried emptily into the wilder-
ness: "Public School of San Francisco, a competent
teacher wanted."
Walter Colton described the exodus from the capital
at Monterey: ". . . the blacksmith dropped his hammer,
the carpenter his plane, the mason his trowel, the farmer
his sickle, the baker his loaf, and the tapster his bottle.
All were off for the mines, some on horses, some on
carts, and some on crutches, and one went in a litter."
30
Word of The Californian's scoop and Brannan's
quinine bottle soon captivated the world. Books on the
Gold Rush appeared in Russia. Poland, Germany and
Australia. A punning cartoon in Punch portrayed "A
Run Upon Ye Bankes of Ye Sacramento." An imagina-
tive French print showed a far-away artist's conception
of California gold miners wearing artist's smocks and
bows and striped trousers with long sashes. Sam Bran-
nan's advertising stunts had worked. The rush for gold
was on. Within a year the rough adventurers had swelled
into legion and had acquired a name that has stuck ever
since . . the '49ers. They came by covered wagons and
fought Indians and thirsted on the desert. They came
by fast Clipper, in 117 days, around the Horn or across
the Isthmus of Panama. They were further lured, en-
ticed or prodded by eastern opportunists who knew, or
pretended to know, how to advise or equip the prospec-
tive emigrant. Guide books were promptly printed in
New York in 1848. Maps could be prepared for a fee.
There was a portable iron house, grand-daddy of the
pre-fabs, specifically designed for the gold fields (see
cut). Instructions in mining techniques, seasick cures
and other services were offered. Large posters and small
decorated cards (see full page illustration) gave notice
of sailings of fast clipper ships.
They came from near as well as from far. The Cali-
fornia Star, just before suspending publication, reported
on June 10, 1848: "The excitement and enthusiasm of
gold washing continues. Every seaport as far south as
San Diego and every interior town and nearly every
rancho from the base of the mountains . . south, has
become suddenly drained of human beings . . Ameri-
cans, Calif ornians, Indians and Sandwich Islanders . . ."
As the old communities were depleted new towns and
tent cities sprang up overnight and there was a great
real estate boom. Placards advertised Nicolaus as a city
where "none have been attacked with any of the diseases
incident to other parts of California." Other thriving
cities, long since reverted to mere ghost towns, lured
the immigrant with high-flown tributes to their particu-
larly superior brands of California weather . . plus the
gold up in them thar hills jest a-waitin' to be dug up.
The California of Bret Harte and Mark Twain was
ready and waiting for the chroniclers. In the meantime,
Zamorano's Boston relic had been stored away to be
preserved as an heirloom for future generations. But
an Englishman persuaded it to again come out of re-
tirement and do the historian's job with stout spirit . .
rotting timbers, rusted screw, warped platen and all.
Claim jumpers seized the land of James W. Marshall,
the millwright who had discovered the gold at Sutter's
Mill, and posted armed guards to keep him out. Sutter
himself had his huge land grant overrun; his help in his
busy little colony deserted, his cattle were stolen, and
his lands looted. Sam Brannan had played the Pied
Piper with his quinine bottle of gold and all of San
Francisco and most of California followed him back
into the hills and to the banks of the American River.
Sam Brannan was ready for them. It all came about
this way . . with Marshall, Sutter and Brannan each
figuring in the drama that ultimately spelt their sepa-
rate dooms.
Captain John A. Sutter, a Swiss immigrant, had re-
ceived a land grant from Mexico to start a colony called
New Helvetia on the spot where Sacramento stands to-
day. Among the colonists was one James W. Marshall,
who worked for Sutter down at the sawmill on the
American River, near the present village of Coloma.
James Marshall discovered gold in the raceway at Sut-
ter's Mill on January 24, 1848. There was no immedi-
ate hullabaloo, and there was some effort to keep it
a secret. When he took samples of his find to the as-
sayer's office he was laughed at. Indeed, this was not
really the first gold discovered in California. For sev-
eral years it had been mined in substantial commer-
cial quantities, without fanfare, in Southern California.
Word reached San Francisco and the great news
scoop had eventually appeared in The Calijornian. Still
little excitement had been aroused. But Storekeeper
Sam Brannan saw in the discovery of gold a great gim-
mick for the sale of merchandise and made ready for
it. His breathless storming of San Francisco with ac-
tual, glittering samples in his quinine bottle, and his
special edition of the Star that was rushed across the
continent, fired the imaginations of men and brought
to California its first great mass migration. Sam Bran-
nan hurried to the Mother Lode country to cash in on
the rush that would follow on his heels. When they
arrived his stores, stocked with goods, were waiting in
calculated anticipation. This modest beginning he par-
layed in a few years time into a vast fortune that in-
cluded: Owning one-fourth of Sacramento, one-fifth of
San Francisco, and most of the land which now contains
the sprawling city of Los Angeles; investments in
ranches, railroads, vineyards, mines and boats; the
founding of a bank and printing his own currency;
owning, for a spell, a large (Continued on page 72)
CT RUST PROOF.
*o
"♦
*
.fZ-iih
THE GALVANIZED IRON HOUSES
CONSTRUCTED BY ME FOR CALIFORNIA,
FROM HUNTINGTON LIBRARY COLLECTION
No Housing Problem: A prefabricated iron house was advertised in
the "Pocket Guide to California," published in New York a century
ago as a lure to prospective gold rushers. Priced at $100, it could
be knocked down, packed in two boxes and shipped to San Francisco
for $18. Said the ad: "I am thus induced to call the attention of
those going to California to an examination of them. The iron is
grooved in such a manner that all parts of the house, roof and sides
slide together, and a house 20x15 can be put up in less than a
day. They are far cheaper than wood, are fireproof, and much more
comfortable than tents . . there will also be no trouble in remov-
ing from one part of the country to another . . they require no
paint and will not rust . . ." No mention was made of a hot day!
3*
California Gold Brought Promise To Many. . . Riches To Few
Flour sold for one
Saloon rentals were
Boat loads of laun-
At Drunkards Bar, Poker Flat, Pinch Em Tight, Hangtown
and Bear Gulch lucky '49ers panned unbelievable quan-
tities of gold. An Onion Valley strike yielded six thousand
dollars in one hour, including a single nugget worth eighteen
hundred dollars. Bear Gulch yielded two hundred thousand
dollars in four days; Poker Flat seven hundred thousand dol-
lars in a month; American Bar three millions.
For each miner striking it rich there were a thousand who
scraped three to five dollars a day, hardly enough to pay for
provisions. Yet there was not a man among them but who
was certain that for him tomorrow would have a golden dawn.
Sacramento boasted four houses in April of 1849. By No-
vember it was a boomtown of one hundred thousand. Yerba
Buena of 1846 was a quiet village, population sixty. The gold
rush found its name was San Francisco, a world-famous port
of call where hundreds of deserted ships cluttered the water-
front and sailors dreamed of panning a year's wages every
hour. Entire towns from Missouri to the Atlantic Seaboard
rolled west. Frenchmen, Chinese, Englishmen, Australians swarm-
ed to California, converting the new state into the most cos-
mopolitan spot on the globe. During the year of 1852 more
than eighty million dollars of gold ingots were smelted and
sent to the mint at Philadelphia.
Mother Lode country merchants thrived,
dollar fifty a pound; brown sugar for three,
as high as one thousand dollars a month,
dry were sent to China because too many washerwomen ex-
changed their tubs for tin pans. Those who stayed at their jobs,
however, found more negotiable dirt in dungarees than most of
the deserters reclaimed from gravel.
Mokelumne Hill recorded eighty-five murders in seventeen
weeks; other mining towns did not lag far behind.
Gold tycoons gained the Midas touch. They switched from raw
whiskey and flannel shirts to champagne and diamond-studded
wardrobes. Sam Brannan was courting the European actress,
Lola Montez, in finer style than her Bavarian king. He had an
income of one thousand dollars a day. He owned railroads,
vineyards, ranches and mines; his domain included one hundred
seventy thousand acres where present day Los Angeles County
lies. He was peddling pencils when he died.
Today the romance of the 1848 gold rush has largely been
replaced by 1948 cost accounting methods. Ten California min-
ing corporations headed by modern business executives pro-
duce three-quarters of the current supply. These executives, un-
like the Brannans of old who were always front page copy,
are characterized by a repugnance for publicity. Experience
has taught them that anonymity is the surest protection against
wildcat schemers and crackpots who believe tbat a mine execu-
tive and his gold are easily parted.
California remains the leading gold producing state in the
union, with more than two billion dollars extracted during the
past one hundred years. Yet from a contemporary viewpoint,
gold is an unimportant product. In 1945 California's total yield
of five million dollars was one-third less than the value of
oranges produced in Los Angeles county; one-twelfth that of
the sardine catch of the state; one-sixtieth that of petroleum.
The apparel, motion picture and building industries, for ex-
ample, greatly outvalue the production of gold.
A scattering of lesser producers add their bit of pay dirt to
the yearly yield. Resifting old fields, they are happy to average
ten dollars of gold dust per ton of rock, where once ninety
thousand dollars per ton was not uncommon.
In the rear of the present day gold parade is a group of sun-
burned, leathery, lone-wolf prospectors typified by "Seldom
Seen Slim" of the Panamints. Like him, they roam the deserts
and mountains of California, chipping rocks and smelling dirt,
ekeing out a spare existence . . still searching for the lost
bonanza of Mount Disappointment.
OLD-TIMERS STILL SEARCH
Mention of James W. Marshall brings no smile of I
pride to the face of his descendant, Melvin Mar-
shall, shown below. Melvin has been a miner all I
his life near Isabella in scenic Kern County, and I
for reasons of his own, refuses to discuss his kin-
ship to the man who set the Gold Rush in motion |
with his electrifying discovery at Sutter's Mill
Ellin Mackay's grandfather, John V lOfl
Mackay, joined the Gold Rush in 18' an
made millions in the Comstock Lod Sol
Clarence took the gold east, made rr e ifl
Postal Telegraph. Ellin writes novel: hW*
band Irving Berlin writes golden ""'.
32
TODAY'S MODERN MINER
om Seen Slim" of the ghost town, Ballarat, has swapped his long-
burros for a jeep . . his sole concession to modern progress,
le wolf prospector is one of the last of a breed that will never
placed. Death Valley and the Panamint Mountains are his diggin's
A-sslSl..
'LD LEFT A HERITAGE
■ » jigeles County Sheriff Eugene Biscailuz'
C''or, Francisco Lopez, liked to nibble on
-tcjanions. In 1 842 Lopez munched and
:Ji| gold particles clinging to the roots.
'-n>quently, Los Angeles lays claim to Cali-
:"" 's first mines; shipped gold in 1 843
Sutter was a landlubber . . his great-grandson
is a seadog who has lived an adventure-cram-
med life. Capt. Frank Sutter Link of Berkeley be-
gan his career on a sailing vessel in 1909, was
an outstanding naval hero in World War II. At
present Frank sails a ship on the European run
Harvey S. Mudd, well-known civic figure of Los Angeles,
is the guiding hand of the Mudd interests which figure
prominently in present-day gold mining. A famous en-
gineer, Mudd is also director of sulphur, iron and in-
surance companies, the Southern Pacific. In contrast to
tycoons of the Gold Rush era, he's a power in city
betterment, with opera and symphony topping the list
Edwin Letts Oliver is president of the Idaho Maryland
Mines at Grass Valley . . once abandoned as worthless
. . which have produced 37 million dollars in gold
since 1925. Oliver, a San Franciscan, designed a ro-
tary filter method used throughout the mining world
and in manufacture of oil, paper, chemicals and food
Clifford Burton and his brother, Cecil, were a team
who made news in the mining industry as operators of
the Tropico Mine in the Mojave and the Ruth Mine at~
Trona. Since Cecil's death in 1947, Clifford has car-
ried on the practice of staking many a "desert rat,"
resulting in the discovery of several major mines
33
GOLD RUSH
Usually, fashion appears to be about nine parts
personal flattery and one part conversation. But this
year you get everything from California ... a feminine
kind of clothes more complimentary than any, and plenty
to talk about in fashions that have a Gold Rush motif.
Spurred on by all the Centennial celebratin's of
California's birthday . . . our designers have struck
gold in fabrics and foibles (real 24-karat
gold impregnated materials, gildy-goldy accessories,
golden tones of beige and taupe) . . . and seized
the golden opportunity to create fashions
inspired by grandma's quilting or square dance fancies,
by a miner's mackinaw or a prospector's pony.
It's all good fun, and nostalgic. You'll look
sweet in a demure little dress, quaintly flirtatious . .
or an out-and-out wicked gown for the gay way.
There's nothing newer than yesteryear's fashions,
brought up to date in an exciting new way.
Ask to see the official Gold Rush fashion colors:
Discovery Red (bold and ruddy) ; earthy Sutter Brown;
woodsy Sierra Green; and, of course . . Nugget Gold!
34
Wild andWooll
J
You'll catch the Gold Rush spirit in these good-timers of jumbo plaid: left,
Barney Max box jacket and skirt, good travelers, sizes 10 to 18, about $45 at
The Broadway, Los Angeles; D. H. Holmes, New Orleans; Scruggs, Vandervoort,
Barney, St. Louis. Worn by Christine Larson of Monogram's "Fighting Ranger."
Right, mackinaw jacket by Dan Gertsman, perfect for football, sizes 10 to 20,
about $30 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago; The Hecht Co.,
Washington, D. C. Model is Betty Caldwell, Monogram starlet in "Jinx Money."
35
lhe JLlush is Un
You'll strike it rich with these bright ideas from California: Quilted and quaint.
Left, Betty Caldwell wears quilted vest and skirt, Royal of California ; sizes 10 to
18, about $25. Right, Christine Larson in front-quilted jacket dress in Gold Rush
colors, by Saba of California; sizes 9 to 15, about $15 at May Company, Los Angeles.
EARL SCOTT
Shades of yesterday! Christine steps
out in gabardine suit by Hollywood
Premiere. Note saddle-bag pockets, prim
buttoned-up look; sizes 10 to IS, about
$25 at Gottschalk's, Fresno.
Betty, in Ken Sutherland's back-button
gabardine, sizes 10 to lii, about $35
at J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles; Neal's,
Boston ; Carson's, Chicago.
At Ghost Town on Placeritos Ranch,
home of Monogram's western pictures.
Ei
,m&
ugget
You'll find a wondrous assortment of clothes
with accessories especially made to match
California's Gold Rush colors . . . this nugget
gold is a rich new stake, a glowing color used here
by Lynn Lester to glorify a simple dress with
shawl collar, deep pockets pegged for drama!
In other centennial colors, too . . . sizes 10 to 18,
about $30 at L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis;
John A. Brown, Oklahoma City.
38
iscovery
ft
e d
. . . this is the Gold Rush color, bright as the sun
and warm as a flame that sparks Centennial
collections! Left, Marjorie Montgomery's rayon
gabardine with dolman sleeves, hipline banding to
release skirt fullness; sizes 10 to 18, about $23
at City of Paris, San Francisco; L. S. Ayres,
Indianapolis. Below, a yoked classic repeating the
dolman sleeve influence, a California gabardine
idea from Hollywood Premiere.
Urr~ —
Here's another Gold Rush color to watch . . . because
its woods-y hue is so flattering, because it mixes
and matches other colors in high favor this
season, because it takes accessory accent so
beautifully. Above, Agnes Barrett's plaid-with-red Ray-
laine flannel "walking dress," as spirited as all out-
doors; sizes 10 to 16, under $30 at Bullock's Wilshire.
Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines. Right,
Blair's good basic treatment with matching jerkin.
40
In
California
It's...
Barbara and Virginia Blair create beauty in their studio in Monterey
Barbara Eiler . . radio's girl friend
Clarence Ross has the winning muscles
Samuel Newsom and his lovely Japanese
gardens are individual in world of art
SAMUEL NEWSOM'S roots are deep in the soil of San Fran-
cisco . . he is a master of Japanese gardening as well. Grand-
father came to the gold country in 1850, was a pioneer architect
for many large homes. Sam's father, his uncles, brothers and
cousins, all have been leading architects or interior decorators.
Sam's personal interest began early when he admired a small
dry pool built by a Japanese house boy. The impression re-
mained through his architecture course at the University of
California, Navy service in World War I, and a nursery busi-
ness until 1934. Then he sailed for Japan, intending to stay
six months to study landscaping . . stayed five years, visiting,
drawing, lecturing, even working in some of Japan's famous
gardens. Returning to San Francisco in 1940, Sam served as
interpreter for the Navy, but he admits the war years were the
darkest of his life . . not only because of his understanding
and appreciation of the finer side of the Japanese people, but
because "American homeowners are not yet ready to understand
and appreciate the highly developed art of Japanese gardening."
A Japanese dry garden, like the one shown, is "a jumping-off
place for meditation, not an easy and inexpensive expression."
Reluctantly, Newsom sold his nursery and his dwarfed shrubs,
bought an old barn in Mill Valley and turned it into home
and studio . . turning, too, to commercial designs for mural
wallpapers . . inspired by the redwoods and waterfalls of Mill
Valley. BARBARA AND VIRGINIA BLAIR pooled talents
to create an exciting little studio perched on a building on
Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey. Barbara had studied pottery
at U.C.L.A., Virginia had absorbed painting and design at the
Chicago Art Institute. Today, in their pink-walled aerie, the
beautiful sisters put their skilled fingers to molding bowls,
carving earrings and buttons, experimenting with new glazes
. . and they've created an exciting, profitable enterprise.
CLARENCE ROSS of Alameda is Mr. U.S.A. of 1948, the
proud possessor of $1000 and a four-foot trophy. Clancy walked
off with the national title in Los Angeles, operates a physical
culture studio, exercises an hour and a half a day. BARBARA
EILER is a California girl who made good as a "girl friend."
Now 21, Miss Eiler is a veteran of eight years in radio in Holly-
wood, has been Dennis' girl friend in "A Day in the Life of
Dennis Day," Babs in "The Life of Riley," Barbara on the
Danny Thomas show, Susan McClean on "The Guiding Light,"
and Kenny Baker's girl friend on "Glamour Manor." She's
single, owns a horse, and knits.
41
Ann Miller, star of M.G.M.'s "Easter Parade," with Keneth Hopkins
HAT FOR
HEAD
Keneth Hopkins
with one N and a Yen to make beautiful hats
BY VIRGINIA SCALLON
ALTHOUGH you may know him merely as the label in
one of your becoming hats, Keneth Hopkins actually is
a very charming man and a real California personality,
who once took exceptions to his wife's millinery aberra-
tions . . said he could do better himself . . and did.
Keneth Hopkins was an art student in San Francisco
when he noticed people were literally buying the hats he
designed right off Mrs. H's head. So he stopped trying
to draw pictures and made his first millinery collection
which he presented in a little shop in Beverly Hills. That
was February 14, 1937: Beverly Hills was a rich man's
pantry, Romanoff's a beanfield, and couturieres something
you read about in fashion magazines.
Today, Keneth Hopkins is a pioneer in the famous de-
signer colony that has sprung up within a stone's throw of
his mirrored salon in the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. Here,
any day, you are likely to see famous and beautiful women
searching for something just a little different, a hat for
some special occasion . . and probably the designer him-
self restlessly selecting and rejecting fabrics and colors
with which to make them more lovely.
Personally, Keneth Hopkins looks like a dreamer. A
sleepy dreamer. He is tall and lank and blond in a sandy
kind of way; he walks languidly (so as not to disturb
the dreams) and drums nervously with his long fingers as
he talks. He affects bright shirts and slacks, invariably
appears before a first-night "audience" with a first-class
case of jitters, proof that he obviously has worked right
up to show time to create some new fashion. For Hopkins
is a tireless worker. Before a showing he often works
twenty hours at a stretch, supervising final details and
bringing dreams to reality. He makes 1000 hats a year
for the forty retail stores which buy his entire collection
and sell them exclusively in a city; this season he will
create an extra 200 originals for the famous Adrian fash-
ions . . and still he will find time for a select custom
business for the woman who wants an original designed
just for her.
"And since we did hats for our first motion picture . .
Columbia's 'Cover Girl' . . we've been busy with scores
of new productions, projecting hat styles 'way into the
future," says Hopkins, who still gives the impression of
wondering at his own phenomenal success.
For his is a real success story: A native Calif ornian
whose hat sales in one year totaled a million dollars.
From the very beginning he catered to a select clientele
. . wouldn't even attend women who wore slacks! . . and
made delectable bonnets for Beverly Hills society women.
For years there was hardly a wedding in his "hometown"
that didn't boast of hats-by-Hopkins, and the genteel in-
42
troduction to a distinguished career had begun. Then
lovely Jeanette MacDonald became his first celebrity-cus-
tomer, five years passed without benefit of press agent
and he became one of the most talked-about stylists of
them all.
Today Keneth Hopkins has moved just two blocks from
his original location, but he's on the top of the world as
far as style recognition. His customers read like a Who's
Who of the country . . distinguished women like the Mmes.
Alan Marshall, J. Langford Stack, Walter G. McCarty, the
best-dressed Slim (Mrs. Howard) Hawks . . Jane Wyman,
Loretta Young, Ginger Rogers, Olivia de Havilland, Lauren
Bacall, and (singers always love his symphonious hats)
Susanna Foster, Katherine Grayson, Deanna Durbin and
la MacDonald.
Keneth Hopkins bases his success upon his functional
outlook on fashion: Millinery created for a way of life.
Careerist, socialite, dramatic stars, all have their special
prerequisites for fashion. Hopkins takes inspiration right
out of the blue . . finds modern life, its people, travel oppor-
tunities and situations reason enough to create hats to
glorify a woman. Maybe a piece of fabric, a dramatic pic-
ture or a subtle play will give him ideas for a certain
fashion treatment . . but the woman and the way she lives
is his real inspiration.
Here let it be said that Keneth Hopkins is a stylist, a
colorist . . not a mere trimmer-of-hats. Every one of the
Hopkins creations must be able to stand the "basic" test:
Every shape must be true and balanced and perfect enough
to be good in plain black, sans feathers and fuss. It's
the sculptured shape that is always prophetic and new.
Once Gloria Swanson insisted on a gigantic hat, despite
her tiny size. The Hopkins trick of slashing a brim or tilt-
ing it just so-so to give it lightness and buoyancy made
it structurally right for her small figure.
"Hopkins is like an architect," friends say . . he builds
hats. "He's like a chef," others describe him . . he seasons
his millinery with rare spice and sweetness.
This season? It's the pert look, according to Hopkins.
Hats will be worn forward, or with a side tilt. They'll be
womanly, uncluttered, vibrant . . they'll fit securely on
shortly cropped tresses, they'll be crisp and delectable.
Dinner hats are the big news, with the Irene Castle bonnet
suggesting a conversational series. Pink plum and nutmeg
are two favorite new colors Keneth Hopkins is sponsoring
for the season ahead.
This famous designer believes men like to talk about
hats, because here they make their easiest entry into the
feminine world of fashion. They can talk learnedly about
some exciting new hat, laugh at or love it. If they're shy
they'll say a hat is lovely; if they're bold, say it's funny.
As we selected Keneth Hopkins originals for these fashion
pages, we were tempted to try them on. Hopkins laughed
at our temerity, laughed off objections that "we can't-
wear-hats."
"Why not?" said he. "You have a head, haven't you?"
Demure: Velvet Flowers
Dashing: Drama of Feathers
Romantic: Sweetheart Lace
Flirtatious: Fine Feathers
BERYL AND RENE
D
emurely nostalgic, Emma Domb's moire gown, sizes 10 to 16, about $35 ; right,
Bill Kopp's dramatic bustle-back satin-striped taffeta, sizes 10 to 16, under
Siren-sweet formal of slipper satin, elegance of line and fabric with single
large rose at neckline: Marbert. Sizes 10 to 16, it's about $50.
45
A HOUS!
Sectional sofa in rhythm print inspires color treatment of entire living room
Unique console table and lamp are features of roomy entran
Extension table in dining area faces unimpaired two-sided
a heavenly home for your family?
46
the californian introduces
it here . . in redwood, ilass, brick
and beautiful furnishings
Grouping of eosy chairs in bedrooms is a decorator's "must" loy|
"H Willi
WITH THE FREEDOM FOR EASY LIVING
Smart, clean line and window space are emphasized in exterior view
There's a hegira in Hollywood . . as in all Cali-
fornia . . from the large, traditional mansion to
the small, contemporary home. There's flight from
the period-furnished, two-story servant problem. And the
motivating factor, in addition to responsibility and the
cost of keep, is the increasing desire to live in the casual,
comfortable California Way.
Hollywood Riviera is a few miles from the film city,
but perched as it is on a high plateau overlooking the
blue Pacific, it is the locale for a low-roofed redwood
house you'll love . . a house that's simpler to build than
many, easier to clean than most, and more apt to be the
hub of enjoyable living for all. The office of John
Lindsay and Associates designed it, and W. & J. Sloane
provided furnishings that are colorful and lush.
The house itself covers less than 1700 square feet,
but a large outdoor dining and sunning area, porches
and garage up the total footage to more than 2500, with
a construction cost above $16,000, depending, of course,
on the type of interior finish. Located on a 132-foot
frontage lot, it commands a view of the jutting headland
of the Palos Verdes Estates, the dim blue outline of
Catalina Island, the crescent bay beach cities of Redondo,
Hermosa, Manhattan, and the Santa Monica-Malibu hills
some forty miles away. If you were to select a lot for
this dream house, plan on a level site at least 80 by 91,
The garage can be attached in front if there's need to
conform to different, but comparable dimensions.
The architecture and decor could be called "commer-
cial modern" . . in a completely complimentary tone.
Built to sell, it embodies many of the niceties you have
known. "Its bones don't show" is one way of saying
that the structure and its beautiful furnishings are transi-
tional . . a compromise . . between the period-type
house that is on its way out in California, and the
starkly modern structure that is fostered by the school
of Frank Lloyd Wright. The fact that this home leans
far. and comfortably, toward modern design makes it
even more practical to build and to live in.
John Lindsay used an exterior siding of redwood . .
ideal for the salty, tangy air of the beach. Steel girders
support a "life-time" roof of half-inch concrete shakes,
and radiant heating insures an even flow of warmth
throughout the house. A curving driveway sweeps past
the front entrance and extends into the garage. Here
a door opens directly into the kitchen . . handy thing.
To capture every view, 30 feet of solid glass panels
were placed along the ocean side, and the five rooms
. . six, counting the dining area of the big room . . are
amply supplied with windows to admit maximum sun
and air. Not a window opens! Beneath steel-sashed
panels of glass, reaching from the ceiling almost to the
floor, are panels of wood which open from the inside,
protected by screening and louvres. They provide ade-
quate ventilation, yet do not disturb at any time a full-
window view. Off-white rayon casement curtains are
used throughout, flecked with color and sufficiently heavy
to serve as blinds.
Decorator Ida Lambert selected the furnishings, many
of them with a dual purpose. To the right of the entrance
is a console table which opens up to double size. On
it is a brass base lamp with bottle green shade. Just
beyond is a handsome, tooled-leather Adams chest, with
doors and shelves, which has become a china closet.
The blonde oak dining table has an extension for extra
guests, while the wooden octagonal pedestal actually is
a bar. Hidden in a closet beside the fireplace are a
47
A HOUSE WITH THE FREEDOM FOR EASY LIVING
Magnavox and controls for the radiant heat.
Dominating the living room is a large sectional sofa
. . a real conversation piece . . sporting a quilted rhythm
print which sets the color scheme of the room in green,
coral, lime and driftwood tones. Walls are bottle green,
the ceiling has a panelled effect, the string broadloom
rug of dark green extends from the hall. The large sofa,
dividing the living room from the dining area, is lighted
by brown cupid lamps and faces a bleached wood coffee
table which reminds you of a section of surfboard. The
fireplace of evenly laid red brick features a picture-
frame effect of satin aluminum . . a unique touch that
will be widely copied . . and bronze horsehead andirons
provide the grate. Interior planting, a picture or two
and shelves for books and phonograph records complete
the decoration.
The dual role of furniture usefulness also extends
to the den where the sofa is really a hide-a-bed for over-
night guests. Driftwood-toned walls are panelled and
a light well is dropped from the panelled ceiling. A
clean-lined desk, red leather and quilted linen chair,
book shelves and lamp add to the livability of this room
that is always so popular in every home.
A custom-made headboard with shelves adorns the
double bed in the master suite. Reading lamps in the
upholstered posts are revealed by door panels. And a
gray quilted spread on the bed is placed over a char-
treuse dust ruffle which matches the two chartreuse arm-
less chairs near the magazine table. Gray is repeated
in the horse lamp and antique gray shade. The fact that
there are two comfortable chairs, a table and lamp is
indicative of what's happening to modern bedrooms. A
conversational grouping of furniture in each one is as
important as if it appeared in a den. The windows, solid
on two sides of the room, have identical casement cur-
tains, and when opened form graceful frames for the
view of the bay shore and rising hills.
The guest bedroom, with rose coral rug and light green
walls, has black lacquer-finish twin beds, bureau base
and chests. Aluminum planter lamps with black base
have black velvet shades for further drama, and the
ocean-side wall, again, is of solid glass.
Convenience in entertaining makes for a happy Cali-
fornia home, and this particular plan places the kitchen
adjacent a trellis-covered outside dining room, a paved
space ideal for sun bathing, lounging, outdoor games
or for enjoying meals in the open from breakfast to late
supper. The barbecue grill uses the same chimney as
the fireplace in the living room, which is an advantage
in that the smoke cannot reach the dining area and the
actual cooking operations are separate from the dining
space. The natural wood table has green canvas-up-
holstered benches, and nearby are a comfortable chaise
with chartreuse pad of sail cloth, two lounge chairs of
similar material, matching ottomans, occasional chairs,
table lamp and butler's cart.
Interesting variation in the modern kitchen is the laun-
dry bay behind the stove and a serving counter at the
end of the sink. Dutch double curtains in green apple
chintz blend with the citron-colored walls. A Dutch door
leads to the out-of-doors area, making the kitchen as
accessible as the "next room."
Here you have a complete pattern for living . . in the
California Way.
this compact plan has every
constructional advantage . .
with none of the monotony of
many "ready-to-build" ideas
The outdoor porch is in effect an outdoor living room with comfortable chairs and all the accoutrements for informal entertaining
The well-lighted den is a familiar focal point for the family • Streamlined kitchen with every facility . . no servants needed
50
s
• •
pint
of TTxl
THOSE EARLY CALIFORNIA PIONEERS REACH OUT
FROM THE PAST WITH SOME WONDERFUL
IDEAS TO MAKE YOUR WARDROBE
MORE EXCITING. AFTER THE BREATHTAKING
WHIRL OF EVERYDAY LIVING, YOU'LL
FIND IT'S FUN TO WEAR CONVERSATIONAL
CENTENNIAL FASHIONS FOR FIRESIDE ENTERTAIN-
ING, FOR LEISURE. OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT,
PAT PREMO ENLIVENS A GREEN GORED PRINCESS
WOOL JERSEY WITH FEATHERWEIGHT PAISLEY
SCARF; SIZES 10 TO 18, ABOUT $55 AT BULLOCK'S
WILSHIRE, LOS ANGELES AND BULLOCK'S PASADENA.
WITH IT, LOUELLA BALLERINO'S PROVOCATIVE
DUST RUFFLE DRESS IN BATES PICOLAY,
SIZES 10 TO 18, ABOUT $25 AT THE WHITE HOUSE,
SAN FRANCISCO; NEIMAN MARCUS, DALLAS.
THIS PAGE, AGNES BARRETT'S COSTUME DRAMA IN
LOUNGEWEAR LIKE-A-DON'S-TROUSERS,
SIZES 10 TO 16. ABOUT $33 AT MAY COMPANY
WILSHIRE, LOS ANGELES; YOUNKERS, DES MOINES. \S
51
Y
XESTERDAY'S INSPIRATION IS TODAY'S
FUN! LIL ALICE GIVES YOU FAILLE-TAFFETA
GOWN SIZES 9 TO 15, UNDER $23 AT
THE EMPORIUM, SAN FRANCISCO. RIGHT, FROM
HOUSE OF MEREDITH, TORSO DRESS
IN BLACK, AMBER AND WHITE COLORS OF
PROSPECTOR'S PONY, SIZES 10 TO 18, ABOUT
AT ALLARDALE'S, BEVERLY HILLS.
52
GAMBLER'S VEST HAS WINNING WAYS:
METALLIC, WITH WOOL JERSEY BLOUSE,
GABARDINE SKIRT: ARDAN OF CALIFORNIA.
SIZES 10 TO 18, ABOUT $45 AT NANCY'S,
HOLLYWOOD. RIGHT, VELVETEEN DRESS WITH
SAUCY BUSTLE, BY LANZ OF CALIFORNIA.
SIZES 9 TO 17, ABOUT $25
AT LANZ CALIFORNIA STORES.
53
The Quality Of Change
by Kenneth Ross
ONE QUALITY more basic in the
long tradition of painting than color,
line, value, or pigment itself, is the
quality of change. Yet it is this very
quality, making the history of art a
fascinating panorama, which has for so
long divided the artist and the public.
One hundred years after Christ, the
younger Pliny wrote: "Though I ac-
knowledge myself an admirer of the
ancients, yet I am very far from de-
spising, as some affect to do, the genius
of the moderns, nor can I suppose that
nature in these later ages is so worn
out as to be incapable of any valuable
production."
This statement was made some 3,000
years after the art of the Egyptians
had experienced a radical transforma-
tion. Some 1,800 years after the obser-
vation, a painter named Pablo Picasso
said "With the exception of a few paint-
ers who are opening new horizons to
painting, young painters today don't
know which way to go. Instead of tak-
ing up our researches in order to react
clearly against us, they are absorbed
with bringing the past back to life . .
when truly the whole world is open be-
fore us, everything waiting to be done,
not just redone. Why cling desperately
to everything that has already fulfilled
its promise?"
Fortunately for future generations,
the fertility of this man's creative
genius has provided the most varied
retrospective to be found within the
art of a single man. Yet, it is this one
quality which has made him the least
understood and perhaps the most de-
spised artist of his time.
That he could have been a most
popular painter has been evidenced by
periodical bursts of fairly objective
painting. One of these periods in which
he reveals to all his true genius and
makes it so difficult for his mortal
enemies to dispense with him entirely,
is the Harlequin Period. A fine exam-
ple in this group is the "Two Acrobats
and a Dog" which hangs in the en-
Pablo Picasso's "Two Acrobats And a Dog" has been outstanding among the fine paintings
on exhibition at the new Modern Institute of Art in Beverly Hills. His Harlequin Period mas-
terpiece permanently hangs in the Santa Barbara home of art patron Wright Ludington.
trance hall at Wright Ludington's San-
ta Barbara home, and which was seen
by more than 10,000 people at the
opening exhibition of the Modern In-
stitute of Art in Beverly Hills.
The painting in gouache on card-
board was done in Paris in 1905 when
Picasso was 24 years old. At that time
Cezanne had one more year to live. Van
Gogh, Gaugin, Manet, and most of the
Impressionists had passed on. Dali was
crying in his crib at Figuiras, Spain,
and the Fauves (Wild Beasts), led by
Matisse, were holding their first sensa-
tional exhibit at the Salon d'Automne.
Picasso, later to direct the main trend of
the entire modern movement, had not
yet influenced anyone.
The Harlequin Period was a brief
one, lasting less than a year, but when
one reviews Picasso's productivity in
this short span, it has the appearance
of a life work. To this year must be
relegated several hundred drawings and
paintings, sixteen drypoints and etch-
ings, and a series of bronzes. The work
is characterized by a brief interlude of
apparent pathos and composure. The
line is delicate and sensitive, the color
soft and harmonious. There are no
implications of the brutality of the
Guernica. There are no indications to- ,
day of what he will do tomorrow; yet,
throughout his entire productivity there
is the continuitv of a valid and con-
tinuing art tradition.
54
WhK
Hi,
f
mil
If****-
!♦♦♦♦♦♦<
■
:♦♦♦♦,
♦♦♦♦<
!
ROGER DAVIDSON
c
heck
C
our yhoice
Ken Sutherland's suit in Hoffman woolen is the ultimate in fashion co-
ordination . . . keyed to Gold Rush color schemes, shown here in Discovery
Red. Select separate pieces to mix or match. Sizes 10 to 20. under $60
at Carson's, Chicago; Neal's, Boston; J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles. Worn
here by Rosalie Calvert, appearing in "Neptune's Daughter," an M.G.M.
Technicolor comedy. Suzy Lee hats, and Henderson umbrella to match.
5S
^MtlStt
FOREIGN IMPORTS TOP
NEW RECORD ISSUE
by frances anderson
f\ emember all the fuss last Christmas-time
about the Petrillo ban? Well, it's still on and
we bet you haven't given it a thought in
months. Its effect has been insidious insofar
as general acceptance of inferiority goes, and
otherwise regrettable . . for listeners, musi-
cians, and the union itself.
Musicians are probably the hardest hit;
but it's their union and they're with it . .
perhaps to their ultimate good. For listeners
and record-buyers, the goods and bads of
the situation are harder to evaluate. A great
advantage has been the influx of and em-
phasis on foreign imports of such musical
and mechanical excellence as to give native
record companies serious competition, particu-
larly, of course, in the realm of classical and
symphonic music. The work of English
Decca and English Columbia, the superb out-
put of Italian Cetra and others . . well, all
too often the nod goes to the import where
it competes with an American version.
The one big trouble in both departments,
serious and popular, is that because of hasty
recording to beat the ban, so much music
that is poor mechanically and artistically has
been delivered on wax, shellac and vinylite
to the gullible public that now something
only halfway good sounds terrific.
With this in mind, judgment on new issues
is relative . . "good'' means good for the pres-
ent time; "only fair" would be terrible in
more fruitful record years.
SERIOUS MUSIC
Debussy: "Quartet in G minor Op. 10,"
played by the Paganini Quartet. We take it
back, this would be good in any year. Lovely
tonally, appealing and atmospheric, this
chamber music is well handled by one of
today's best string groups. Victor.
Copland: "Four Dance Episodes from
Rodeo," recorded by Dallas Symphony Or-
chestra, Antal Dorati, conductor. Gay, re-
freshing, indigenous, this is ballet music to
delight practically everybody; and Dorati
knows what to do with it. Victor.
"Louis Armstrong All Stars" is, we under-
stand, a collection of numbers actually re-
PACEMAKERS
Leading in popularity in the nation's record
shops and departments:
SERIOUS MUSIC
Brahms: German Requiem. Apparently a large
segment of the population has been eagerly
awaiting a recording of this work. Both Victor's
version, conducted by Robert Shaw, with Eleanor
Steber and James Pease as soloist, and Colum-
bia's European-recorded interpretation are be-
ing snapped up.
POPULAR MUSIC
"My Happiness" is the current top tune, with
honors about evenly divided among the waxings
of Ella Fitzgerald, the Pied Pipers, and Joe and
Sandra Steele, who introduced it.
Going strong: Ray McKinley's "Arrose" and "You
Came A Long Way From St. Louis"; "Confess,"
in both the Doris Day and Patty Page renditions.
Going, going and not regretted: "Woody Wood-
pecker."
corded during jazz concerts. Hence, a lively
spontaneity and imaginativeness . . and, of
course, a group of virtuoso musicians. The
numbers are classics, "Rockin' Chair," "St.
James Infirmary," "Ain't Misbehavin' " and
others. Victor.
Jolson Album No. 3. Now that we've re-
discovered him, this boy can do no wrong.
You'll enjoy his typical and irresistible
handling of "I Want A Gal," "Rainbow Round
My Shoulder," "Red, Red Robin," etc. Decca.
"Mood Ellington" . . a new collection of
tunes by the Duke is always news and always
interesting. Some are better than others in
this new and lush aggregation, but it's all
worth a listen. Columbia.
FOR RELAXATION
"Keys to Romance" is Buddy Cole's latest
album, featuring enduring favorites such as
"The Moon Was Yellow," "Sophisticated
Lady," "When Orchids Bloom In The Moon-
light," and others. This is relaxed, very pleas-
ant piano. Capitol.
Arthur Godfrey's latest . . like olives, a
question of taste . . pairs "Turkish Delight"
with "Trail of the Lonesome Pine." Both
funny if you like the brand, and the former
on the shady side verbally. Columbia. Spike
Jones, while we're in the comedy depart-
ment, does wonderfully hysterical things to
"I Kiss Your Hand, Madame" and "I'm Get-
ting Sentimental Over You." Victor.
THINGS WE'RE TIRED OF:
Vaughan Monroe's old, tired, beat-up song
style.
Jo Stafford's conscious flatting by about a
quarter-tone to get a. melancholy effect.
Cowboy songbirds.
All the broken-down jazz-shouters dug up
to compete with the few examples of au-
thentic jazz talent now extant.
Serious musicians who try to get clubby
with the proletariat by recording composi-
tions unworthy of their talent. Conversely,
popular entertainers who chin themselves on
music miles above them.
CALIFORNIA GOLD RUSH
VIVID IN WORD AND SONG
by hazel alien pulling
"DRUNK! Aye, drunk with avarice! Be-
hold the picture; California in her cups!"
These are the opening words and the keynote
of an interpretation of gold rush days by
California's earliest gold rush historian, Hu-
bert Howe Bancroft. Writing in the 1880's,
Bancroft gathered his data directly from par-
ticipants in the great Western drama of 1848
and the ensuing years. His California Inter
Pocula (828p.) still stands, a challenge to
historians to disprove and disavow.
In panoramic sweep Bancroft pictures Cali-
fornia teeming with gold-hungry men who
sought to fill their pockets while they dreamed
of homes left lonely in the East. He traces
the opening of mine after mine, the mush-
rooming of towns, and the lawlessness of men
in a lawless land. He limns the lives of those
who fought to bring order and security to
chaotic, greed-filled days. He tells, finally,
of the beginnings of stable government as men,
some rich, some poor at the close of the
orgy, settled down to reap more prosaic re-
wards from California's vast kingdom of vir-
gin, untilled land.
Bancroft's account presents some data since
discredited. But, in. his nugget-like sug-
gestions later scholars have found food
for thought. They have explored further,
have added monographic studies which sub-
stantiate in part, and in part overthrow, the
earlier interpretation. Among those later
studies are several worthy of a place beside
the monumental Bancroft work. Owen C.
Coy's Gold Days (Los Angeles, Powell, 1929.
381p. $3.75) ; Joseph Henry Jackson's Cali-
fornia Gold; the Beginning of Mining in the
Far West (Harvard University, 1947. 380p.
$4.50) are examples. Each study, factual and
brief, brings a clear conception of what the
gold rush meant to those who participated
in it and to the state, the nation, and the
world at large.
INVALUABLE SKETCHES
But, better than interpretations by scholars,
however ably done, are original accounts of
those old exciting days. Written by the men
and women who lived through the events
noted, these records hold the flavor and pre-
sent the facts as no retelling can. Try Alonzo
Delano's Across the Plains and Among the
Diggings, reprinted in 1936 from his 1854
report (Elmira, New York, Wilson- Erikson.
192p. $4.50). This account is a classic in
the field for its straight-forward story of the
overland trek and of life in the mines.
J. Goldsborough Bruff's voluminous record,
Gold Rush Journals (Columbia University. 2
vols. $15), edited by Georgia Reed and Ruth
Gaines, and published for the first time in
1944, is another fine account. Bruff's journey
began in "Washington City" in 1849 and
ended in the mines in 1851. His story, one
of the most extensive of all, is accompanied
by original sketches of places and events and
filled with notes about the people who, like
him, made the "search for the Golden
Fleece."
For a woman's view of frontier, gold-crazed
California read Sarah Royce's recollections
published in 1932 as A Frontier Lady (Yale.
144p. $2). Sarah Royce made the overland
journey in 1849 and lived to raise her family
in the mining area. A similar view is pre-
sented in the letters that Louise Knapp Clappe
wrote to her sister in Massachusetts from the
mines on Feather River in 1851-1852. These
letters were republished in 1933 by the Grab-
horn Press of San Francisco under the title
of California in 1851; the Letters of Dame
Shirley (2 vols. $12.50). Both the recollec-
tions and the letters give a view of gold rush
days unsensed by the male element of the
times.
SONGS OF THE DAY
The Gold Rush Song Book (San Fran-
cisco, Colt Press, 1940. 55p. $2), edited by
Eleanora Black and Sidney Robertson, is an-
other illuminating view of the period. This
group of twenty-five authentic ballads, com-
plete with words and music and sung by
the men who dug the gold, provides the
overtone that explains much of the psychology
that lay behind the phenomenon that we know
as "California's Gold Rush!"
Latecomer among our Gold Rush books is
one that looks at the period from a per-
spective of a hundred years and from the
vantage point of a gold rush ghost town.
W. A. Chalfant, publisher of the Inyo Regis-
ter, has given us his vfew gained from a life-
time of living close to the legends, the his-
tories and the old towns, now in ruins. Gold,
Guns, and Ghost Towns (Stanford Univer-
sity, 1947. 175p. $3) relives in modern in-
terpretation the days of gold in California.
Ed. note: If you would like Dr. Pulling s
interpretation or recommendation on further
Californiana, please write to her in care of
The Californian.
56
IN SEPTEMBER
Zooming to California this September?
You'll find it a paradoxical month,
really a second summer, with some
days turning sharply cool in pure de-
fiance. It's a busy month, too, so you'll
have to plan your wardrobe with ex-
tra care.
Just consider that you can swim in
the ocean, enjoy Indian summer in the
mountains . . enjoy starlight operas
and symphonies under the stars at
Hollywood Bowl . . go to the races at
Del Mar . . "take in" the numerous
County Fairs, and the Fiestas.
Then . . start out with a basic suit
with a choice of blouses: tailored,
dressy, and one just plain cool. Actual-
ly, this changeabout can take you any-
where in good style, but you'll have
frequent use for a dark crepe or may-
be a sheer wool as a mid-season choice.
One of the new dark-hued cottons will
prove both smart and comfortable for
the dog days ahead.
Bring swimsuits and play clothes if
you're beachward bound ; pedal pushers
or slacks for the mountains . . and a
coat for evenings wherever you go!
Don't forget sturdy walking shoes for
there are so many places to see . . add
sun glasses so you'll look like a native.
Just remember, anything can happen
in California in September, so come
prepared!
WEATHER DATA FOR SEPTEMBER
SAN FRANCISCO
tOS ANGELES
Maximum
Minimum
Average
% Sunshine
68.5
54.8
61.6
70
80.5
59
69.8
77
fir your Cafifomm way of Q^£
/
left: Cashmere Slipon, 13.00
shown with Cashmere Car-
digan, 17.00
right: Grape Leaf Quiltie,14.00
IOOK FOR THl FLYING FISH
For color folder showing other Catalina Sweaters, write Dept.
577, Catalina, Inc., 443 S. San Pedro St., Los Angeles 13, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
ST
TWO LADIES IN" A MAU'S LAND ?
•' »»# •* •'• '*•
by glen n s. dumke
MINERS WEIGHING THEIR SOLD.
FROM HUNTINGTON LIBRARY C<
Men . . young men . . were the Californians of a
century ago. There were virtually no ladies, and
very few young women in the California that achieved a
hairy-chested statehood in 1850.
The reason was simple. The Gold Rush had precipi-
tated a sudden migration into the w7estern wilderness. In
less than two years the goldfields had attracted a popula-
tion great enough to bring California into the Union. But
it was a masculine population that stood knee-deep in the
icy streams of the Feather River Canyon panning for
gold; or sweated and toiled with pick and shovel under the
broiling sun at Placerville. feverishly taking the gold from
the earth; or emptied its pokes of gold dust and nuggets
on the counters of the saloons along San Francisco's
Barbary Coast. It was a rugged trip from Boston to Sut-
ter's Fort. It was a rugged existence when you got there.
Only rugged, virile young men were fitted with the courage
and stamina to be Californians of a century ago.
But this is the story of two ladies who did appear in-
congruously upon this masculine scene. One was a lady
of letters, the other a lady of politics: The wife of a doctor,
writing under the name of "Dame Shirley." produced
a series of classic letters to her sister in Massachusetts:
and Jessie Benton Fremont, wife of the general, named
the Golden Gate and worked skilfully behind the scenes,
making her strong hand felt in California's destinv.
The genteel "Dame Shirley" and the socially well-placed
Jessie Benton Fremont were, indeed, anachronisms on the
scarcely recognizable California scene of one hundred years
ago. The frontier of those days offered little to attract
women of refinement, and less to interest them once they
had arrived. Truly it required a firm will ynd an insistent
love of culture on the part of a woman to prevent her
from being dragged down to the level of her surround-
ings. Many lady pioneers simply did not have the spiritual
stamina to cope with drafty cabins, lack of reading matter,
absence of urban life, and the all-around crudeness of
daily existence.
But most circumstances are best known by their excep-
tions, and even in this male frontier a few women came,
and of the few. a handful made names and reputations
for themselves. "Dame Shirley," whose real name was Mrs.
Louise Amelia Knapp Smith Clappe, was a frail little
blonde woman who come from Massachusetts. She ob-
tained an excellent education, and did some traveling be-
fore her marriage to a young physician. Dr. Fayette Clappe.
In 1849 the newlyweds joined the argonauts in going to
California, where the gold rush and a bustling frontier
promised quick and spectacular wealth.
For a time they stayed in San Francisco. That city,
during the gold rush, was an almost unbelievable boom
town. Quarters were the smallest coins in circulation,
and fortunes were made and lost with such rapidity that
foolhardy optimism was the order of the day. One month
the city would be out of flour, with the price $100 a
sack, and businessmen would hurriedly ship in cargo after
cargo of it until tardy unfortunates were caught in a
glutted merket. and the now valueless product was dumped
and packed in San Francisco's muddy streets to form make-
shift paving. Another menth would see a shortage of hard-
ware, and one bad guesser saw his cargo of stoves tamped
down in another muddy stretch to form a more solid bottom
for the city's busy traffic. Amid this chaotic madness Dr.
Clappe started his practice of medicine. But his own
health gave way, and he was forced to seek higher and
dryer country.
Amelia waited in San Francisco while he searched out a
suitable location in the northern diggings. He found one.
finally, at Rich Bar. on one of the tributaries of the
Feather River, and returned to escort his wife to her new
home. At the diggings, her classic letters to her sister
were produced, and the first of them relates the picturesque
and interesting journey through Marysville by mule and
stage to the little mining community. There one miner
had unearthed thirty-three pounds of gold in eight days,
and another had panned out S1500 in one wash of gravel!
Rich Bar started out by living up to its name.
"Dame Shirley's" pen recorded the scene in the light
good humor of the educated woman she was. and with the
delicate refinements that might be expected of a New Eng-
land gentlewoman. She wrote of this hill country:
"The moon was just rising as we started. The air
made me think of fairy festivals, of living in the woods
always, with the green-coated people for playmates, it
was so wonderfully soft and cool, without the least
particle of dampness. A midsummer's night in the
leafy month of June . . could not be more enchant-
ingly lovely.
"We sped merrily onward until nine o'clock, making
the old woods echo with song and story and laughter,
for F. was unusually gay. and I was in tiptop spirits.
It seemed to me so funny that we two people should
be riding on mules, all by ourselves, in these glori-
ous latitudes, night smiling down so kindly upon
us. and. funniest of all. that we were going to live
in the mines! In spite of my gaiety, however, I
now began to wonder why we did not arrive at our
intended lodgings. F. reassured me by saying that
58
when we had descended this hill or ascended that,
we should certainly be there. But ten o'clock came;
eleven, twelve, one, two ! . . I began to be frightened,
and besides that, was very sick with a nervous head-
ache. At every step we were getting higher and higher
into the mountains, and even F. was at last compelled
to acknowledge that we were lost!
"About two o'clock the next day we struck the
main trail, and. meeting a man . . the first human
being that we had seen since we left Bidwell's . .
were told that we were seven miles from the Berry
Creek House, and that we had been down to the North
Fork of the American River, more than thirty miles
out of our way! This joyful news gave us fresh
strength, and we rode on as fast as our worn-out
mules could go."
It was at Rich Bar, and in another camp, Indian Bar,
that Dame Shirley made herself one of California's first
women of culture. Her letters, couched in the graceful,
semi-formal, and sometimes extravagant phraseology of
Victorian days, when letter-writting was a fine art, peer
deep into the life of the mining camp and search out its
basic character. Dame Shirley's sensitiveness to human
nature make her account of a pioneer mother's death and
the consequent orphaning of her ten-month-old infant the
basis for Bret Harte's story, "The Luck of Roaring Camp,"
and another incident in the Shirley Letters gave Harte the
idea for the "Outcasts of Poker Flat." Amelia also had
a sense of humor, evidenced by her delight in a miner's
statement to her husband about a neighbor . . "Magnificent
woman, that, sir! A wife of the right sort, she is. Why,
she earnt her old man nine hundred dollars in nine weeks,
clear of all expenses, by washing! Such women ain't
common, I tell you. If they were, a man might marry,
and make money by the operation."
Like most argonauts, the Clappes found life in the dig-
gings none too profitable, and they returned to San Fran-
cisco. Finally widowed, Amelia became a high school
teacher, but continued her prominence in the city's social
and cultural life by holding a continuing salon for the
great and near-great who ventured to the bay city. Late
in life, she moved back to New England and took a trip
to Europe, one of her life-long ambitions. When she died
in 1906 she left the impress of her personality upon the
still youthful California, and for its everlasting treasure
the cultural heritage of the "Dame Shirley" letters.
Her book, The Shirley Letters from California Mines in
1851-52, was published in several editions after her twen-
ty-three epistles had first appeared in a California journal
of the fifties, The Pioneer Magazine. Her reputation stands
deservedly as that of the first real woman of letters of
American California, and she is rated highly not because
there were no competitors, but because the quality of her
work entitles her to compete in a much more sophisticated
literary circle.
But women of letters were not the only ones who raised
the standards of early California. There were also women
of action and politics. Head and shoulders above all others
in this category stands the "immortal wife," Jessie Benton
Fremont, whose determination fostered a career.
Jessie Benton was the daughter of one of the fire-eaters of
Congress during the great years of territorial expansion
and Manifest Destiny. Her father, Senator Thomas Hart
Benton of Missouri, first duelled Andrew Jackson, then be-
came his devoted follower, and was an acknowledged
leader of western legislators. Jessie inherited his intelli-
gence and his will, and applied them both to furthering
the career of her husband, John Charles Fremont.
Fremont was a professional soldier, and he made him-
self a popular hero by participating in and leading some of
the most famous expeditions to the Far West. It was Fre-
mont who traced the wild country between the Rockies
and the Sierra, the Columbia River and the Mojave Desert.
Variously nicknamed "A man unafraid," "The Pathfinder,"
and "The West's Greatest Adventurer," Fremont conducted
no less than five expeditions to the western frontier. It was
the third of these that made him a participant in the an-
nexation of California and gave his wife, Jessie, the oppor-
tunity to help make history.
In 1845, Fremont, at the head of a detachment of sixty-
two men, set off from Salt Lake. He struck due west into
northern California, explored the Humboldt Valley, and
finally turned south to Sutter's Fort . . at the site of present-
day Sacramento. Meanwhile a portion of his party had
entered California by one of its southern gateways. Walker
Pass, and rejoined the main party in the north. California
was still under Mexican domination, although war talk
was rife, and the Mexican officials at the provincial capi-
tal, Monterey, grew alarmed at the size and militarv bear-
ing of Fremont's expedition. As he was passing through
Salinas he was notified by Mexican government authorities
that they would appreciate his early departure.
Fremont, knowing trouble was brewing between the
United States and Mexico, and wishing to be on the ground
when it exploded into action, was reluctant to obey the
order. He fortified his encampment on Hawk's Peak, near
Salinas, and stayed there three days, braving the wrath
of the Mexican officials. Then he unwillingly withdrew
and headed north, his pace slowed by the hope that some-
thing would happen before he left California.
He led his men up the beaten trail toward Oregon, and
had reached Klamath Lake when he was overtaken by a
weary messenger from the East, Lieutenant Archibald
Gillespie. Here Jessie Benton probably made history. Al-
though no one
knows exactly what
was in the notes
Gillespie handed
Fremont, they con-
tained a message
which impelled
Fremont to make
an about face, re-
trace his steps to
the Sacramento
River, and wait
there until actual
warfare did break
out in the (Con-
tinued on page 73)
A tADY OF POLITICS: Jessie Benton Fremont, wife of General Fremont and daughter of Missouri Senator
Thomas Hart Benton, helped to shape the destiny of California. The "immortal wife" played a great part
in making Fremont the national hero he was, laboring diligently over his "memoirs," giving Fremont the
political know-how from her father. It was Jessie Fremont who named San Francisco's Golden Gate.
JESSIE BENTON FREMONT
59
B 1*6116 S Jtlclll€l.SOI116 evening dress for the great occasion . . . lame-satin stripe draped to the Empire mood:
graceful compliment to a lovely lady. At Neiman Marcus, Dallas; Filene's, Boston.
TOM BINFORD
A
(IrUIll lOr ClCffBllCC ... magnificent ball gown of rose and violet iridescent taffeta, with fly-away
tabs on bodice and wide-sweeping skirt. At Gunther's, New York; City of Paris, San Francisco.
PATTERNED FOR
ean louis of Columbia
JEAN LOUIS
FOUR years ago Jean Louis came to Hol-
lywood and its vast motion picture in-
dustry at the behest and with the encour-
agement of Miss Irene Dunne, who brought
him fame for his startling creations in
women's fashion. Today Jean Louis of
Columbia Studios is known as one of
Hollywood's foremost designers. Screen
wardrobes for such stars as Janet Blair,
Claudette Colbert and Irene Dunne are
his work. He designed for Rita Hayworth in "Tonight and
Every Night," and "Gilda." He fashioned the clothes for
Janet Blair in "Tonight and Every Night"; for Miss Dunne
in "Together Again" ; for Evelyn Keyes and Adele Jergens
in "A Thousand and One Nights." Now, Jean Louis designs,
on these pages, a suit-dress and a dramatic coat for you who
read The Californian Magazine.
In the course of his work Jean has created new fashions
for the Duchess of Windsor, for Gertrude Lawrence. He holds
to the maxim that women should dress to no set pattern . .
only to their best advantage. But the designs he has created
here, for you, are smart and functional . . the types of
apparel that will accentuate your good points, play down
a figure fault and dress you, stunningly, in the increasingly
popular Calif ornian way!
Pattern C-l 1 1
62
YOU
creates
Show your talents this fall by making a
suit-dress and coat designed for you
by Jean Louis of Columbia. Opposite page,
Modes Royale pattern C-lll is
a suit-dress, can be worn with scarf,
sweater or blouse. We suggest you use
Botany "Baronette," a lightweight
wool crepe . . . 54" wide, $4.95 per yard.
This page, dramatic coat Modes
Royale pattern C-112, try
Botany "Reedston" . . . 54"
wide, $6.95 the yard.
Just ask for Modes Royale
customized patterns by
number, sizes 12-20.
You may write directly to
The Californian Magazine,
1020 South Main Street,
Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, enclosing $2 for
each pattern desired.
Please indicate size.
fashions for fall
Pattern C-112
\
•elles of the Gold Rush made history with "the
form divine" ... modern California figure
blends femininity and easy freedom. Above, power net garter
' :lt, Hollywood-Maxwell, "Spider Web" bra by Star Fashions
Right, eyelet embroidered bra, Olga Company
v
California Cooks
BY HELEN EVANS BROWN
old brought fine food to San Francisco . .
brought it to stay. And a visitor to the Bay
City always is impressed by the fact that it is
possible to eat, and eat beautifully, in almost any
language. It all started with the cry of "Gold" . . a
cry which no one seemed to miss. From every land
the lure of sudden wealth prompted men to throw down
the tools of their own trades, pick up shovels and get
going . . to California.
But you can't eat gold. Soon some of the less lucky
of the adventurers discovered that their sauciers and
their braziers, their soup pots and their cleavers were
more valuable than their pickaxes. The fortunate miners
. . and there were many of them . . would pay almost
anything for good food. One San Franciscan menu
dated 1849 lists eggs at a dollar each, stewed prunes
at seventy-five cents, beer at two dollars, and a brandied
peach at four dollars. Could it be that those men with
empty stomachs and full gold pouches preferred the
peach to the prunes? Actually there wasn't much food
to cook. Sutter's farm had been one of the first seri-
ous attempts at agriculture and what the rapacious squat-
ters did to that venture didn't help the food supply.
Still, though meat and vegetables and fruits were hard
to come by, there was plenty of fish and plenty of
foreigners who knew how to cook it in the
manner of their fatherlands. Thus many classic
fish dishes became everyday fare in those in-
credible days . . the foundation of the haute
cuisine that was to become such a part of
San Francisco.
But it wasn't just the dishes of other
countries that San Francisco was to make
famous. Those lusty men created many
fine recipes of their own. One of them,
Hangtown Fry, becomes more renown-
ed as the years go by. Every time I
take my hands off my ears I hear an-
other story of how this oyster dish
got its name. As I can't believe them
all let's just assume that Hang-
town, later renamed Placerville
to soothe the tender feelings of
its residents, had more than
something to do with its chris-
tening.
HANGTOWN FRY
Select from three to a dozen
oysters for each serving, de-
pending upon their size.
(The original dish was
made with the tiny cop-
pery - tasting California
oyster). Dry them with
a clean cloth or paper nap-
kin, dip them in beaten egg and
then in 'crumbs, and fry them
in butter. When nicely and
lightly browned on one side
pour over them eggs (two
to each serving) which have been slightly beaten with
a little cream and some salt and pepper. Let cook a
minute or two then turn the entire mixture as you would
a pancake. Brown a bit on the other side and serve with
crisp bacon. Of course like every other famous dish
this one has a dozen variations, chief of which is the
scrambling of the eggs separately and pouring them
over the already fried oysters. In fact, the famous Hotel
St. Francis Cook Book says this, and no more, in its
directions for making Hangtown Fry: "Mix scrambled
eggs with a dozen small fried California
oysters." (There's a cook book for you, by
the way . . at least if you're interested
in fine food with a California flavor.)
Another nice variation of this now
classic recipe is served at the Good
Fellows Grotto in Los Angeles. They
; add green peppers and onions to their version. But
I wonderful !
As the wealth of San Francisco grew the outside world
| found that it could bring in foodstuffs and sell them at
I fantastic prices. The miners, now flush with food as
| well as money, called to the world for its finest chefs,
its best recipes. And the world responded. So the sim-
| pie fare of the mining camps, the slum gullion and the
| flapjacks, were replaced by such distinguished foods as
these cosmopolitan cooks could produce.
Among these early chefs there were many from China,
| and it was they who discovered that the native abalone
was a rare delicacy. It is strange that it was more than
fifty years later that it became popular with other na-
tionalities, perhaps because no one else knew how to
cook it. "Abel Ones," or "Ear Shells," were much used
by the Chinese when San Francisco was booming. They
served them in their restaurants and they dried them
and shipped them back to China in such quantities that
there was great danger of their disappearing altogether.
Finally, when it was discovered that you didn't have to
be Chinese to cook abalone, and, at the same time
it was discovered that there were precious few left
to cook, a law was passed forbidding their shipment
out of the state. So, if you don't live in California and
just can't wait until you visit here to taste them, there's
just one thing to do: buy canned abalone. Of course
it's not from California . . it's from Mexico, but as most
of it is canned just over the border in Ensenada, it
could have been California spawned. Canned abalone
is found in Chinese grocery stores and in other stores
that specialize in imported foods. Although this recipe
for soup was not handed down from gold rush days it
is safe to say that the Chinese in those days served one
reasonably like it.
ABALONE BOUILLON
Measure the juice from a can of abalone and add suffi-
cient water to make two cups. (I mean a number two
can of abalone which, I think, is the only way it is
packed. The abalone trimmings are packed in a seven-
ounce tin, and in California, but it's best to forget about
them.) Add two cups of chicken stock which you, be-
ing smart, will make with one of those chicken concen-
trates now on the market. Next comes a tablespoon of
soy sauce, a tablespoon of sherry and a piece of abalone
the size of an egg cut into the size and shapes of kitchen
matches. Heat and serve and take your bow. There will
be some abalone meat left over, so make another Chinese
dish with it. You'll have to name it. Fry a pork chop
and cut it and the left-over abalone into strips, add some
green pepper and celery cut the same way and heat the
mixture (for three minutes) in a sauce made with one
cup of chicken stock, a tablespoon of sherry or whiskey,
and a tablespoon of cornstarch to thicken. Serve with
rice for tomorrow's lunch.
There were not only many Chinese restaurants in the
early days of the bonanza, many of the mining camps
had Chinese cooks. It is said that chop suey, unknown
in China, was the brain child of one of these Oriental
chefs. It seems that a horde of hungry men descended
upon him long after meal time. His larder was all but
empty, but as Chinese courtesy demanded that the guests
be fed he whipped up a dish from dabs of this and
that. Perhaps with hunger as a sauce the diners were
vociferously enthusiastic and demanded to know what
they were eating. The first name that came into the
pig-tailed head was "chop suey" and so it still is today
the darling of American-run Chinese restaurants.
From the '49ers
to present-day diners
San Franciscans love good food
CHOP SUEY
One pound of breast of chicken, or of lean veal
or pork is needed. (Chicken breasts may now be pur-
chased in most communities and bean sprouts, complete
with can, may be had in any grocery store of any size.)
The meat is cut into thin strips and cooked in a quarter
of a cup of cooking oil. Remove meat, then add the
following ingredients to the pan in which the fat has
been left: One green pepper, cut in strips, one onion,
thinly sliced, then halved so that the rings will separate,
some sliced mushrooms, six or eight depending on size,
and a half cup of thinly sliced celery. Cook for two
minutes then add two cups of drained (canned) or fresh
bean sprouts and, if you can find them at a specialty
food store, a few sliced water chestnuts and/or bamboo
shoots, and the meat. Heat all together in the same
old sauce: Two cups of chicken stock and two teaspoons
of soy sauce thickened with a tablespoon of cornstarch
which has been moistened in a tablespoon of cold water.
Serve with rice.
The San Franciscan boom was no temporary affair.
Money continued to be made in mining, and in rail-
roads, and in the "green gold" which was agriculture.
Many famous restaurants flourished and the famous
Palace Hotel was built. It was at the Palace that Oysters
Kirkpatrick were created and named after Colonel Kirk-
patrick, one time manager of that establishment, though
some people do claim that the dish is but a refinement
of an earlier one called "oyster salt roast" . . a favorite
of the 49ers.
OYSTERS KIRKPATRICK
Oysters on the half shell are needed for this . . allow-
ing six to a person. Lay opened oysters (in the deep
shell) on pie tins half filled with rock salt that has
been preheated in the oven . . a tin for each serving.
Squash the shells into the salt so that they won't tip
and spill their precious juices. Mask each oyster with
chili sauce, add a few flecks of chopped green pepper,
cover with grated parmesan cheese, and top each oyster
with a couple of two-inch pieces of bacon which have
been partially cooked. (Sometimes this order is reversed:
oyster, then bacon, then chili sauce and last the cheese.
The choice is yours ! ) Put the pans in the oven . . a
hot one . . and bake until the bacon finishes its crisping
and the cheese is brown.
One famous early San Franciscan dish that was not
sea food was nonetheless served in a sea shell and thus
named
CHICKEN IN A SHELL
Boil a young chicken in four cups of water along with
an onion and a half teaspoon of whole pickling spice.
Before it's too tender remove from the fire and allow
it to cool in its own liquor, then remove the meat from
the bones and cut it in cubes. Return the bones to the
stock and cook until it is reduced to one cup. To this,
strained, of course, add a cup of very heavy cream and
thicken with a roux made with a tablespoon each of
butter and flour. Add a half pound of sliced sauted
mushrooms and, if you're as rich as were those old
timers, a few sliced truffles. Now toss in the cut-up
chicken and a jigger of sherry. Season with salt and
white pepper and bind with the yolks of two eggs. Serve
in cockle shells, the old recipe says. But what's the
matter with scallop or even clam shells? Or serve it
plain and call it Chicken d'Or . . it's rich enough . .
my word for it.
So it was in the beginning of good eating in San
Francisco. Now it is even better. If it's grizzly bear
steak or roast curlew you're wanting, you may go hungry,
but any other dish of the gold rush, or of the later
days of plush, will be found on San Francisco menus
of today. And as new fare is created that, too, will ap-
pear immediately in the Bay City. Is it any wonder
that to dine in San Francisco is to return and dine
a crain V
67
CASUAL ELEGANCE
APPARENT IN
NEW WEAR FOR MEN
IT'S NOT EASY to tell which of these
lanky six-footers covers the course in
par, but collectively their good groom-
ing shows a very professional touch.
As a woman this is to your best in-
terests. In fact, today's knowing woman
is quick to detect a budding style-in-
terest in her beau . . and to encourage
it. Although he is still a rarity, the
man who knows why he wears what he
wears is more apt to detect delicate
subtleties in your fashion selections
and to appreciate and compliment them.
Give him the benefit of sound apparel
advice everytime you can.
To keep you up-to-date these are
some of the latest menswear trends in
sportswear. It might be a good idea to
suggest them the next time the two of
you take in a shopping tour.
SPORTCOATS: The light chocolate
brown unfinished worsted double-
breasted sportcoat, far left, has the new
long diagonal lapel which gives its
wearer the illusion of added height.
The houndstooth pattern is tradition-
ally correct for sportswear. A very fine
example of this plaid is shown, front
and center, in an imported Scottish
fabric with a new lapel with notches set
slightly lower and finished with round-
ed edges. Both coats are distinctively
styled by M. Jackman & Sons.
SWEATERS: Traditional, too, are
sweaters that seem always right at the
club. Combined with a blue light-
weight sport shirt on the man, center,
is a light beige cashmere sweater with
long sleeves and v-neck.
The "Schooner" shirt-sweater, right
center rear, is in navy blue with long
sleeves and wide-spread knit Kent col-
lar. This is the newest version of the
"Gaucho." These sweaters are made by
famous Catalina Inc.
SPORT SHIRTS: Two sport shirts
finish the tableau. The ping-pong en-
thusiast picks the "Rio," a gabardine
shirt with a navy blue body and contrast-
ing white placket and collar. It can be
worn with either short sleeves or long.
A shirt innovation is the "After
Hours" sport shirt illustrated right fore-
ground. It has an entirely new treat-
ment to its collar which lies back from
the neck without corners or breaks.
The artist has the same shirt on the man
with the houndstooth jacket. In this case
the Windsor-knotted tie keeps the collar
nicely closed. These new shirts are by
Hollywood Rogue.
These new fall fashions for men are probably
available in your city. Address your in-
quiries to Men's Fashion Editor, The Cali-
fornian Magazine, for the names of stores
which carry them.
$27.50, postpaid.
Ready to mail with our
Money-Back Guarantee
ORDER THIS COLORFUL CALIFORNIA
JACKET RY MAIL!
Full of California's golden colors and years-ahead style, Riviera has
designed the Carefree jacket for the man of your choice . . for the
gift of the yearl Exclusively patterned from the highest quality rayon
gabardine, hand-picked collar and front, large saddle pouch pockets,
the cleverly concealed one-button closure, and comfortable, roomy
shoulders that permit the utmost in action . . in freedom-loving wear.
The perfect Christmas or birthday gift . . in five beautiful colors . .
Palm Canyon Cocoa, Pacific Navy Blue, Prospector Rust, Arrowhead
Silver Gray, California Vintage Maroon . . in sizes to fit. 34, 36,
38, 40, 42, 44, 46, in regular, short and long lengths. Order todayl
TO: THE CALIFORNIA LIVING CO.
1020 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please send me the Carefree jacket:
COLOR
Palm Canyon Cocoa
Pacific Navy Blue
Prospector Rust
Arrowhead Silver Gray
California Vintage Maroon
(Name)
(Address}
Check
Enclosed
(City, Zone and State)
□ Money Order I I
Enclosed | |
CALIFORNIAN TO SPONSOR
NEW CONTEMPORARY HOUSE
PAUL LASZLO
If you could have a dream house, what would it be?
WOULD it have a sheltered patio and inviting barbecue? Would it
have a den, separate breakfast room and bar? Would it be full of the Cali-
fornia manner that makes for easy, comfortable living? What would you
like to see in a new, contemporary design?
The Californian Magazine has retained Paul Laszlo, internationally
famous designer of beautiful homes and furnishings, to create your house,!
the Californian House, according to your desires and dictates . . the type
of house you would like to own. All plans and renderings will be formu-
lated from your suggestions, and will be presented in a forthcoming issue
of The Californian. The house itself will be constructed on a choice lot
in Brentwood, fashionable residential section of Los Angeles, and will be
open for inspection upon completion . . and sponsored by The Californian!
Magazine.
Laszlo has designed for Barbara Hutton, Sonja Henie, Gloria Vanderbilt
Stokowski and Frank Borzage, among a long list of noted Californians.
Tell us just what kind of house you'll want The Californian to be. Jot
down your ideas, mail them to California Living Section, The Californian
Magazine, 1020 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15. Let The Californian
House grow, from the drawing board, with your ideas. Visit The Californian
House when it's all built and ready to view.
CALIFORNIA'S OWN
COOK BOOK
If you like to eat . . and who doesn't . .
you'll revel in Helen Evans Brown's
special and famous recipes in
CALIFORNIA COOKS
Write for Your Copy Today!
• More than 100 unusual California recipes are
consolidated on 40 beautifully printed pages _. .
appetizing dishes that make cooking and eating
a real pleasure . . a big event for you ! Try
Helen Brown's Brentwood Orange Pancakes, her
piping hot Onion Bread, Hamburgers En Bro-
chette, Peas Paisano, Green Goddess Dressing.
• Cooking is easy . . and fun . . when you have such wonderful
recipes! Try them for your finest party . . serve them for your own
family's taste treat.
• CALIFORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep in your kitchen #. . it suggests the
proper menu, the exciting dish . . at just the right time. It's a practical and appreciated
gift.
• A Two-Dollar Value in good eating for only 50 cents!
Write for Your Copy Today!
Simply fill in the coupon and mail with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid
by us, to
&
CALIFORNIAN
1020 SOUTH MAIN STREET
LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
To: The Californian, 1020 S. Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California
Please mail my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS to:
Address.
Name_
City-
Zone-
State-
Enclosed is payment for □ copies.
70
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
THREE
fresh
FLOWERS
by Marg§o Osherenko
w.
ith all of California's year 'round flowers it's still
hard to forget that I once lived on the East Coast where
flowers were very expensive. There are many times when it
is nice either for time-saving or penny-pinching to be able
to throw a bouquet together economically and quickly. Here's
an arrangement that needs only three flowers . . three ex-
quisite or exotic flowers, please. Pine branches and spider
chrysanthemums or something with an affinity of form.
The arrangement is an old one-two-three, but it never fails
to grace an entrance hall, add charm to a tea table or cause
comment in the parlor. It takes three green pine branches
or something similar such as these branches from a fern pine
tree (podocarpus elongatus to be technical). Three spider
| chrysanthemums or shaggy dahlias, the loveliest, freshest
you can find. The container is a three-legged brass chafing
dish . . just the stand and one of the double boiler parts all
highly polished.
Use your biggest spike holder. Cut the three branches so they
are tall, medium and low. The low one should be the fullest
and the tall one the thinnest. Prune out some of the leaves
or pine needles if necessary. Make the tall one stand so that
it is perpendicular, the middle one bending to the right, the
low one toward the left. See if you can make them look as
though they all grow from the same spot like a plant or
shrub.
If your holder isn't heavy enough and starts to tip, then
anchor the edge with another spike holder turned upside
down. It is possible to anchor your holder before you start
by sticking it to the container with oil clay or plasticine.
This must be done before you put the water in it. However, it
always annoys me to gum up my nice silver or china or glass
with clay.
Now. though it breaks your heart, snap off those nice long
and expensive chrysanthemum stems so there is one very
low, one medium and one tallish one. Put them into the ar-
rangement so that their stems follow their corresponding
pine branches . . low. medium and tall. See if you can make
them follow so closely that they give the illusion of blossoms
and leaves growing on the same stem. To finish the arrange-
ment, cover the holder itself with just enough pine needles
or leaves so that you are not conscious it is there.
There is something very joyous and hospitable about a
house with fresh flowers, so if it's only a quartei of a dozen
. . have them!
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
71
HOUSE OF MURPHY
for gourmets only
Fine food in an atmosphere
of convivial friendliness!
Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth
CR 5-0191
BR 2-3432
RESTAURANT ROW
IN THE CRUCIBLE OF CALIFORNIA
PALO ALTO, CALIFORNIA
(.Continued from page 31) portion of the Sand-
wich (Hawaiian) Islands; and heavy financial
backing of the Mexican government's revolu-
tion against Maximillian.
Fate, which eventually caught up with
Brannan, did not spare Marshall and Sutter
such pleasant interludes. James Marshall got
nowhere in the corrupt frontier courts by
pressing his claims to the goldfields which
had been forcibly seized from him. For
twenty years the historic discoverer of gold
proclaimed his case throughout the country to
a disinterested audience. Finally he returned
to California and in 1872 the state legisla-
ture voted him a two hundred dollar monthly
pension, but at the very next session this was
pared in half. Marshall died in poverty in
1885.
Captain Sutter faired little better. An easy
mark for Brannan and his ilk, he soon lost
the major part of his enormous land hold-
ings in the Mother Lode country. Legend
has it that he died a pauper on the steps of
the Capitol in Washington, D. C. While this
is probably not accurate, it is certain that the
discovery of gold in his raceway, far from
bringing him fabulous wealth, destroyed the
modest prosperity and tranquility that had
been his with his colonization of New Helvetia.
As for Brannan, his house of cards in due
time came tumbling about his ears. In the
most approved western tradition, women and
bad whiskey were his downfall. Lola Mon-
tez, the fabulous European actress, was his
nemesis. Further speeding his decline was
the huge cash settlement that he was forced
to make upon his wife when she divorced
him. His descendancy was as abrupt and as
complete as his ascendancy had been, and
Samuel Brannan, a drunk, died peddling
pencils on a street corner in Arizona.
Zamorano's printing press met indignity at
the end, too. But its honor survived and
was enhanced through three Gold Rush years
before it was dealt unkind violence in its
dotage. Destined to serve five masters in
this brief time, it led the advance of the
printed word into the mines. Its first
move was occasioned by the purchase of
The Californian in November 1848 by Ed-
ward C. Kemble, owner of the Star. Kemble,
who had worked his way up from a printer
on Brannan's paper to its owner and ulti-
mately one of California's most distinguished
journalists, combined the two papers into the
Star and Californian. After a few months
of turning out the merged newspaper, the
old press was taken by Kemble, who had
a sentimental attachment for it, to Sacra-
mento where he started the Placer Times,
first of the interior newspapers. It followed
the miners, and subsequently started the
Stockton Times, then the Sonora Herald, and
finally the ill-fated Columbia Star.
But as it traveled the Sacramento and San
Joaquin Rivers by boat, and through the
rich placer lands by ox cart, it recorded and
preserved the news, both great and small,
of pioneer California.
But it also reported that butter was Sl-25
a pound.
It took the pulse of the miner whose creed
was subsequently published according to Act
of Congress and which concluded thus: "The
miner believes that California, with all its
social drawbacks, is not only a great country,
but that it is in every sense the best place
in the world for a working man, and only
awaits the coming of a good, sensible, in-
telligent class of noble-minded women to
make the desert to blossom as the rose, and
man to become rich, contented and happy.
So mote it be."
Zamorano's curious press preserved for pos-
terity little insights into contemporary cus-
tom, like this advertisement by one W. H.
Davis: "New Goods just received by Schr.
'Providence' and Brig 'Sabine'. This new
goods includes 34 dozen turkey red handker-
chiefs, 1 doz. silk umbrellas, 3 doz. vests, 4 pes
of blue string silk, some blue cloth jackets
and alpacca, to say nothing of lemon syrup,
dried apples, painted pails, sperm candles,
superior chewing tobacco, corn brooms, fire
shovel and tongs."
Or this one by the New York Store in San
Francisco, offering a "breath-taking supply
of bleached shirtings, gambroons, beaverteens,
moleskins, and other pant stuffs in great va-
riety . . . and the largest and most exten-
sive assortment of jaconet, nansook, book, mull,
Saxon and Swiss muslins, laces and edgings
ever brought into this market.
California's first printing press served its
many masters well. When it chucked sedate
New England and began a life of adventure
it had already been marked as obsolete and
virtually retired to pasture. The full life of
ease it had led in Boston remained its own
secret. Seventeen years ahead of the Gold
Rush, it came to serve the Mexicans in their
last days. It stayed to record or share in
more than one Mexican revolution; the
American revolt that sought to set up a Cali-
fornia Republic; the Mexican war with the
United States, through to the treaties of
Cahuenga and Guadalupe Hidalgo; the dis-
covery of gold with which it scooped the
world; the mad rush of the '49ers; and ulti-
mately California's admission into the Union.
A bi-lingual press, it printed Mexican gov-
ernment documents, then went on to found
California's first newspaper and to start four
others.
It was well admired and sentimentally re-
spected by early California editors. Thus, when
J> Every Day *\
from II.-30
an ftcstawant ffaw
LA CIENEGA BLVD.
1 Block north of Wilshire
BR. 2-2214
ini/ie%lley
VENTURA BLVD.
1 block west of Coldwater Canyon
ST. 7-1914
BOTH OPEN 7 DATS A WEEK
Italian
p 8nd French
A Cuisine
I
PAUL
Your Host
Since 1921
I
I • 8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
^ItmiMjnat
I
1
72
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
TWO LADIES IN A MAN'S LAND
(Continued from page 59) form of the Bear
Flag Revolt.
Fremont was on the way to Sacramento
when a group of Yankee settlers of Cali-
fornia started a revolt around the bay re-
gion, set up a short-lived republic with a
bear flag insignia, and gave Fremont an op-
portunity to join a movement toward inde-
pendence from Mexico. Fremont was par-
ticipating in this revolt when actual war with
Mexico did break out, and he was able to
merge his efforts with those of other American
military leaders who later invaded the
province.
Jessie played a great part in making Fre-
mont the hero he was, for if his expeditions
had been as cavalierly treated as were most
. . buried in musty Congressional reports . .
his popularity would have been ephemeral
indeed. But Jessie was the one who labored
diligently over Fremont's "memoirs" and
clothed them in such a winning literary
style that they became best-sellers of the
day. Very probably these "memoirs" formed
the basis of his popularity, and were the first
stepping-stone in the long climb to fame and
prominence that characterized his life.
Jessie joined Fremont in California during
the gold rush, arriving by sea via the Isthmus
In the Crucible of California
it came to Columbia to turn out the first
issues of the Columbia Star, the Sonora Her-
ald, which it had lately fostered, commented
on October 20, 1851, that "The Columbia
Star will make its appearance with one
strong recommendation in its favor, namely,
that it will be printed on an old Ramage
press, the pioneer press of California. In
what year this press was built . . . tradi-
tion doth not inform us . . ." On October
25 the first issue appeared and so venerated
by now was the creaky old mechanism that
an ounce of gold was paid for the first copy
that came off it. Three weeks later Zamorano's
relic was a charred ruin, victim of the van-
dalism of its last owner.
A financial squabble had resulted in an
attachment of the press by the Sonora Her-
ald, but because no cart could be obtained
to haul it away, it was left on the sidewalk.
That night it was removed to the center of
the street, probably by G. W. Gore, pub-
lisher of the short-lived Columbia Star. What
happened next is best described by the press's
onetime owner, Edward C. Kemble, who raged
with indignation: "Either led or instigated
by Gore, his companions and sympathizers
kindled a fire under the aged relic and de-
stroyed in a few moments what, even in bar-
barian countries, would have been held in
veneration a lifetime. . . A greater outrage
never desecrated the name of an American
town, or disgraced American citizenship, and
the only possible palliation that can be sug-
gested is the very meagre one that the in-
cendiaries may not have known the age and
historical value of the old press. . . As an
heirloom of the art on these shores, its value
would have been almost priceless."
Then, according to historian George L.
Harding, the charred and half-consumed re-
mains of Zamorano's press were brought to
Sonora by Kemble who promised that "It
shall be duly labelled and preserved . . in
memory of its past services . . and whenever
a State museum may be established, it shall
be placed within it."
But alas, for all of Kemble's high inten-
tions, California's first press disappeared from
view never to be seen again. In all likeli-
hood it suffered a second burning in one of
the five or six conflagrations that later swept
the whole of Sonoma, and mingled its ashes
with that of the frontier town.
of Panama. She it was, according to report,
who named the Golden Gate . . that strik-
ing entrance to one of the world's great
harbors. She participated with her husband
in California's early political adventures, at-
tending with him the Constitutional Con-
vention at Monterey in 1849. The Fremonts
then traveled in Europe, and in 1856 Jessie's
husband became the new Republican Party's
first candidate for president. He was unable
to defeat Democrat James Buchanan, but he
ran a good race . . so good thaL the Re-
publicans felt sure of victory in 1860.
Jessie always regarded her husband as
perfect, an opinion which was not shared by
everyone. Fremont was court-martialed for
insubordination during the conquest of Cali-
fornia, and Jessie loyally stood by him.
Again, as commander of the West, during the
early years of the Civil War, he acted in
flagrant disregard of Lincoln's orders, and
was removed from his command and placed
in a subordinate position, in which he was
soundly thrashed in battle by Stonewall Jack-
son. His tendency to play politics gave him
the governorship of the territory of Arizona,
a post which he did not occupy with much
credit to himself or his associates. But Jessie
never faltered. On her deathbed, twelve years
after her husband had passed away, she had
a portrait of the handsome general placed so
that it would be the last thing she ever saw.
Women like "Dame Shirley" and Jessie
Benton Fremont were scarcer in the California
of a hundred years ago than thousand-dollar
gold nuggets.
In San Francisco, at the height of the
gold rush, there was a prosperous firm of
auctioneers. James L. Riddle and Company
profited, like most businesses of the time,
from high prices, the scarcity of goods and
the plentitude of money. When an auction
want
a U-DRIVE
in these
Wide-Open
Spaces. ••
. . .and Tanner GRAY
LINE has them for you
in principal cities in
Southern California,
Arizona and Nevada.
. . . Limousines with guide drivers,
too, by the hour, day or week. ..and
don't forget to plan on sightsee-
ing tours throughout this gorgeous
country, via Tanner Gray Line de-
luxe busses and limousines.
Write in for free folders on sight-
seeing tours and U-DRIVE cars.
~ TANKER
GRAY LINE
324 S. Beaudry Ave., Los Angeles 13, Calif
A sportshirt with a dressed-up look!
Its smooth continuous roll collar
is comfortably becoming for relaxed
moments, has the added advantage
of taking gracefully to a tie.
Where can you buy it?
Write us at Dept. L-9
V
' Hollywood Hogue
Sportswear Corp.
_Ji 945 N. Highland Avenue
Hollywood 38, California
THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948
73
#101
Patented Design
ENCOURAGE CHILDREN
TO "GO RIGHT"
This ingenious right-angle spoon
helps a child to develop good table
manners easily and naturally, with-
out irksome correction. The spoon,
which is sterling silver, can be used
only with the right hand. Exclusive
with Rhea" McAllaster. Price, in-
cluding Federal Tax and mailing
charges— S7.00. (Add 2c Sales Tax
on New York City orders.)
RHEA McALLASTER
113 East 39th Street Dept. C-6
New York 16, N. Y.
Please send me spoons at
$7 each. C.O.D. □ Check enclosed □
NAME
ADDRESS _ _
CITY..._ STATE
rfs-tt-
TRAVELLER'S
DELIGHT . . .
I
ndividual bags of transparent
plastic. To protect your shoes — while
travelling or at home. Neater, clean-
er packing with these washable shoe-
bags. Also use for cosmetics or toi-
let articles. 2 pairs in Gift Box. For
women — in blue, rose, or white.
31.00. For men — in white only.
S1.25. Add 10c postage,
AAVON SPECIALTY CO., Inc.
34 West 17th Street — Dept. C.
New York 11, New York
MEXICAN
SANDALS
In colors, crepe rubber sole
Style BT Bootee type sandol of soft
suede leather with live crepe rubber
sole. Fits like a glove — no heel.
Colors: red, white, fawn, black, dark
blue and dark green. Sized for
women 4 to- 9. Give 2nd choice of
color, please. Send shoe size, out-
line of foot and $4.50 (Add 2Y*2%
in Calif.)
THE MEXICO CO., Dept. SC, Calex.co, California
(Send for folder showing other styles in
leather sandals, espadrillcs, aqua-pumps,
etc. 5c will bring folder by airmail.)
74
TWO LADIES IN A MAN'S LAND
(Continued from page 73) was an-
nounced, its salesrooms were crowded
with noisy purchasers, ravenous after
the items which to them represented the
comforts of the East. One day, when
Riddle's rooms were jammed with a
shouting mob and money flowed like
water, someone took advantage of a
brief pause in the auctioneer's chant to
cry out, "Two ladies going along the
sidewalk!" And in a moment the crowd
had pushed and hustled its way out
of the store to view this unaccustomed
and highly welcome sight.
In the back country, women were
Open Every Day
LUNCHEON
DINNER
SUPPER
2900 Wilshire Blvd. Santa Monica
Phone S. M. 45007
even scarcer. One bewhiskered citizen
of Tuttletown on the Stanislaus River
managed somehow to obtain a wom-
an's shoe. He placed it in a conspicu-
ous position in his shack, and was ac-
customed to take it out for occasional
airings, when he was invariably sur-
rounded by an admiring and covetous
crowd. Usually the miners would offer
to buy it, and sometimes spirited bid-
ding resulted. The owner, however,
consistently refused to sell, and an-
swered all queries with the stubborn
reply, "Now, see here boys, the skunk
ain't found that can buy this boot.
T'aint for sale, no how!"
Miners were far past the state when
the masculinity of the frontier appeal-
ed to them, and they yearned for
the refinements of civilized society
to such an extent that they were will-
ing to engage in almost any activity
which reminded them of home. Some
camps began to hold dances in the
larger saloons. These parties were en-
thusiastically attended, and half of the
dancers . . bearded, flannel-shirted
miners with guns or bowie-knives
hanging from their belts . . volun-
tarily took the part of women by sew-
ing large white patches, cut from tents
or flour sacks, on the seats of their
pants. Square dances, waltzes, polkas
. . all were vigorously participated in
. . although the "orchestra" usually
consisted only of a fiddle and a flute.
The popularity of the pastime was
enhanced when the dance-caller . .
after long hours of "Swing partners,"
"All hands round," and "Ladies chain"
. . often included as his closing figure,
"Promenade to the bar and treat your
partners!"
The patched-pants dancers would
gracefully acquiesce.
^
You'll Be
Smitten With This
California Foot Mitten!
Enjoy the wonderful barefoot comfort and foot protection of these oriental-
inspired foot mittens. Tabbies are for patio, pool, swimming, dance classes,
dorm and indoor lounging.
Fabrics and colors accessorize your every need: faded blue denim; white
terrycloth ; Everfast cotton in black, yellow, aqua, white and red. Sizes S-M-L.
Send your check or money order for $2.95 (add 8c sales tax_ for Californians) to
CALIFORNIA LIVING • 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California
PICNIC STOVE and INCINERATOR
26 high — 21 ave. diam. Ready to use, no bricks,
stones, or labor required.
Beautiful tree stump garden fixture of heat resist-
ing reinforced Haydite concrete, stained dark brown
. . Burns trash or any solid fuel safely. Equipped
with charcoal pan, and grate. Grills, Broils, Bar-
becues. Stands all weather.
only Sin rn ^J::r'm,]ve
I / • «* w write to
W. 0. JOHNSON CO. Dept. C, Omaha, Nebr.
ARE YOU DRESS
CORRECTLY? ■
You can play up your good points, pl(
your figure faults, accent your positive
constantly as a well-dressed woman
follow the simple rules in Dressing by
a collection of 10 important fashion ^
from The Californion Magazine. Write ti/i
your copy . . only 50c postpaid.
THE CALIFORN1AN MAGAZII
1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cu
Daring! Exciting! Diffei.t
The HALF-HI-A ends a search *
different bra. So comfortable ill
wear it with everything. It's strle
topless, designed to stay put.
Black or white, sizes 34, 36 ai I
Send $5.00, check or money ordeiai
21/4% sales tax for California!
fl j 150 South Fairfc
J-UCifi. Los Ange,es 36( Ca||
YOU ARE AS
YOUNC
AS YOUR
NECK!
CREPEY LINED ROUGH SI
YIELDS TO SCIENTIFIC/.!
COMPOUNID
''Sun Vah)
Throat
Cream''
Accomplishes wonders in a short ik
Approximately two months 5i«)
$3.08 inc. ]>
SUN VALLEY C0SME1I!
655 So. Shatto Place, Los Angeli 5.
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Desig n
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBC'
Pattern Designing. Pattern D r.
Nfilllnery. Tailoring. Skr '"
Modeling. Day and Evening (•*
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood &
Ave
Pittsbu
Pa- 9
Atlantic >S
THE CALIFORN1AN, September, 1948
is pure sorcery in Verney's treasure trove of metollics. Subtle alchemy in formal fabrics of timeless splendor...
that whisper again of crystal-lit ballrooms ... of the Renaissance grandeur of Fall's opening-night fcshions.
VERNEY FABRICS CORPORATION 1410 Broadway, New York 18, N. Y.
^^iflHlHttfl
fl
1 B:-r'!
■i
id ^H
.^H
35 cents
BOTAJVT
original design b
DESIGNED BY
JmW.(V.m\;
11
I
Kay Saks versatile coat of Botany Superchan wool gabardine, in Fall Travel Tone Colors. Illustrated, Tahitian Green. Sizes 8 tc
k9tudy in simplicity with emphasis
on good clean line. Casual perfection
cut from Juilliard's Master Fabric,
gabardine. Bronze belt. Greige, seafoam,
praline, 10 to 18. $55.
Mail Orders to Casual Colony
DES MOINES 6
THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948
I lie going's as good as the coming in this \vondei4ul back-vra^ed
wool jersey dress by California's Addie Masters. Cinnamon or green rimmed in
black. Sizes lO to QO. 35-00 « ascot shop, fourth floor
to
THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948
Adrian Says It!
At the recent preview of his fall collection,
the world-famous California designer, Adrian,
prefaced the showing with a few succinct remarks,
from which we quote: "I'll stick my neck out
again and say there is too much talk about
'Paris says' and not enough interest in what the
American woman says . . She tossed out the
'new look' because it didn't become her, and
she'll toss out any other look except what suits her
American life . . I'm tired of American designers
being practically insulted if they don't want to
copy French fashions . . Let's have fashion from
every place where fashion can thrive, but let's not
1948
^ ^i
^
PS
a
sa
e
H
\M
w
0
c
e
ON THE COVER: Sea-
soned traveler or swart
sophisticate will appreciate
the worldly wisdom of
this suit by Lilli Ann . . .
menswear fabric treated
with delicate finesse to
achieve rounded lines.
Sizes 10 to 20, it's about
$70 at Bullock's, Los An-
geles; Peggy Shop, San
Francisco; Bedell's, Port-
land. Meadowbrook quill-
ed beret, Jim Pack llama
bag. Photographed at San
Francisco harbor.
limit silhouettes with seasonal promotion. If you
have a suit with trim, square shoulders, why
be told you must throw it away this season and
then be told again to buy it back the next?
It's double talk. Fashion is a fluid, changing thing,
but its change is gradual and not drastic
because our lives today are keyed to certain
essential facts. We travel fast, we live in fairly
crowded communities, and we do a great many
different things during the day in the same
clothes. Clothes must make news and be interest-
ing, but rarely are the news-makers lasting
in fashion. What we need in this country is
some faith in American taste and judgment . . the
American look is the best loved look in the
world and let's not forget it!"
-
0
e
-
-
-
a
H
c
-
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR .Malcolm Steinlauf
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary
Edie Jones
Alice Stiffler
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Frances Anderson
Alice Carey
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART Morris Ovsey
John Grandjean
Ann Harris
Jane Christiansen
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST , Helen Evans Brown
California fashions
What To Wear In California In October 20
San Francisco Letter, by Sally Dickason 27
Sophisticated San Francisco 28
In Carnival Spirit 30
So Lovely, So Romantic 31
All Around The Town 32
Your Coat, Your Suit 34
For That Woman About Town 36
Shining Light Of Your Holiday Wear 41
Soft Lights For Nights 46
Underliners Past And Present 48
For Daytime Pleasure 52
Ideal Sweaters For The Whole Family 57
California features
In California It's .■ 37
Five More Tones Than Most, the story of Schoenberg 42
San Francisco Celebrates Ride of Portola 44
Society And Movie Stars Go For Tournament Tennis 50
All His Ideas Are Grandiose, the story of Ray Smith 56
Boris Lovet-Lorski: Sculptor, by Alice Stiffler 58
Of Interest In California In October 60
California living
Model House Awarded By Portola Festival Committee 38
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 54
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager,
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson &
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per vear outside con-
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro-
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically aauthorized.
Hj of san francisco
does marvelously versatile
suits like this, always in
exciting fabrics, always in
exciting colors, always with
exciting details. This one
comes in Henrietta velvet-sheen
gabardine, very luxurious . . .
plush red, cavalier green,
weskit grey, Tosca blue,
mascara brown, black . . . also
in fine men's wear worsteds
sizes 10 to 20 . . . about
seventy dollars at better stores.
"of san francisco"
city of sophisticates and
superlatives ... of longest
bridges and suddenest hills, and
fairest flowers and smartest women
HURRELL PHOTO-JOHN F R E D E R
FOR NAME OF STORE NEAREST TO YOU, WRITE LILLI ANN, 973 MARKET STREET, SAN FRANCISCO
Patty Woodard accents
luxurious crepe satin
with fine lace and
self-covered buttons.
A real compliment
to your smart suit or
costume skirt.
White only.
Under $12 at Bullock's,
Los Angeles, and in
fine stores everywhere . . .
or write and we'll
tell you the name of the
WRWOODARD CO
860 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 14, California
THE CALI FORN I AN , October, 1948
p..
Budget Priced Luxuries
These are just a few of the many comfortably
flattering Blue Swan budget lingerie styles that
are in store for you . . . your favorite £tore, that is.
They're all made of long wearing run proof rayon
that's so easy to wash and needs no ironing.
Whether it's a gown for slumbertime loveliness, a
slip for wrinkleless fit or a panty for sheer comfort,
there's a Blue Swan style you'll enjoy wearing,
a.
b.
d.
#8548 —"CUDDLE CUP" SUP - This new slip is
cleverly made with a Laton panel in the back that molds
the bodice almost "bra-like" to the figure.
Sizes 32 to 38. Pink, blue, white, black.
#8547 —ELASTIC LEG BRIEF — No undie wardrobe
is complete without this briefest of panties with elastic
leg bottoms that will not ride up or bind.
Sizes 4 to 8. Pink, white, blue, maize.
#8509 -SKINTIGHT PANTY - Here's a panty that
fits like a suntan. Ideal for smooth lines under today's
smart fashions.
Sizes 5 to 8. Pink, white, black.
#8540 — BAND BRIEF — Another favorite panty for
wear most anywhere. Band bottom hugs the leg and
always stays in place.
Sizes 4 to 8. Pink, white, blue, maize.
\
I
)
j Division of McKay Products Corp.
Prices slightly higher in the West
UKU^
UNDIES
350 Fifth Avenue
SLIPS • GOWNS
New York 1, N. Y
J
THE CALIFORNIAN
Our exclusive Botany gabardine suit . . . de-
signed by Yablokoff for Kay Saks of Cali-
fornia . . . wear the detachable cape when
you're in the mood for fall's "Little Women"
look . . . wear the suit alone as a beautifully
simple basic with many accessory changes
... in wonderful Travel Tones 85.00
San Mateo, San Francisco, Vallejo
San Francisco
Thursday Store Hours
11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Suit Salon, Third Floor
October, 1948
JOHN LUND
Co-starring in
Miss Tallock's Millions"
a Paramount Production
AT EASE in the
from California
This genuine CJUf QRNI4N casual suede jacket has that leisurely
look of well-being sought by all men. Cosmopolitan, yet distinctly
ClUFORNMN tne "Suede Master"* is fashioned of luxurious
lightweight suede, tailored as only these world famous makers can
tailor leather sportswear. Full drape lined, custom padded shoul-
ders, three roomy pockets — expensive looking in every line, yet
moderate in cost. Colors : Sand, Flagstone, London Tan and Gray.
Sizes 34 to 46, including "Regulars" and "Longs", too. Featured
by fine stores everywhere. Write for the name of store nearest you.
CALIFORNIA SPORTWEAR COMPANY
AMERICAS LEADING CREATORS OF FINE LEATHER SPORTSWEAR
1024 SOUTH MAPLE AVENUE • LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS
TURKEY FEATHERS
FOR THANKSGIVING
by MarjSo Osherenko
This arrangement takes very little of that
"precious space" on a loaded Thanksgiv-
ing table. Two or three or four of them
down the table add much fun with their
gay turkey feathers. And they're not too
large for a card table either. They also
take "precious little time" once you have
located the turkey feathers.
The vases are the big glass seafood
cocktails that stand about four inches high
and are about five inches in diameter.
Here is a list of things that might go
into the arrangement. Choose some from
each group of colors. Choose an assort-
ment of sizes from shiny red cranberries
to apples (nothing larger). Choose an as-
sortment of shapes ... long, round, ir-
regular.
Green: Apples, limes, peas in the pod,
pineapple guavas, tiny avocadoes.
Red: Apples, cranberries, radishes, little
long red peppers.
Orange: Persimmons, tangerines, car-
rots, oranges, tiny crook-necked
gourds or squashes.
White: Little pearl boiling onions or
flat ones if you can find them, and
white radishes.
Yellow: Lemons, apples, gourds, crab
apples, very small bananas.
Brown: Nuts . . . filberts, pecans, walnuts.
Shine up the apples and polish the fruit
and rub any of the dull vegetables with
a little vegetable oil to make them glossy.
Pile the glasses high with the fruit and
vegetables . . using toothpicks where neces-
sary to keep them from rolling off the
dish.
Top each dish with two turkey feathers
stuck into an apple. Use a yellow and a
brown feather. Or use an orange feather
and an undyed speckled turkey feather.
Use any gay combination that goes with
your linen and dishes and that looks like
a happy Thanksgiving!
An interesting arrangement like this one is a real conversation piece
•Trade Mark registered
Time proven
HHHHHHH
Pinebrook Gabardine. A fabric's
eminence is proved by time ... by its
fashion acceptance. Designers of smart
clothes and the women who wear them
have long indicated a preference for
Cohama's Pinebrook Gabardine.
This rayon gabardine is
preferred for its soft luster, its
suppleness, its ability to take color —
and keep it — and for its adaptability
to fine tailoring and design. Pinebrook
Gabardine has been imitated but no
fabric in its field affords you its quality,
proved by time and fashion.
Suit by Ritter Sportswear,
Los Angeles, in Pinebrook Gabardine
COHAMA
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS, INC.
/J^
Old California
Gold Water
THE PERFECT GIFT
• Just in time for Christmas! Just
in time to head the list of gift
suggestions for your very special
friends. Old California Gold Wa-
ter was inspired by the fabulous
days of the Golden West. It's a
wonderful cologne . . mixed from
a formula rare as the pure 23-
karat gold flakes that shimmer in
each bottle.
• From Hollywood . . in Golden
California . . Old California Gold
Water, beautifully packaged with
genuine leather top covering,
comes to you postpaid for $4.50,
including the federal excise tax
. . a full four-ounce bottle of
scented elegance to keep . . to
remember you every day.
• Solve your shopping problems.
Order several today! They will be
delivered, safely packaged, by
return mail. Only $4.50, tax in-
cluded. Add 2V2% if you live
in California. Send check or
money order to
THE MARGORITA SHOP
1018 South Main Street,
Los Angeles 15, California
WHERE TO BUY YOUR KAY SAKS COAT
Kay Saks" versatile coat of Botany Superchan wool
gabardine, as pictured on the inside front cover, is
available in sizes 8 to 18 at the following stores:
ALABAMA: Loveman-Joseph & Loeb, Birmingham; Stall-
worth & Snowden, Monroeville; The Vogue, Alabama
City; Isador Kayser & Co., Selma; Mary Shoppe, Hunts-
vitle.
ARIZONA: Bessie Borden's, Kingman; Gus Taylor,
Tucson.
ARKANSAS: Style Shoppe, Clarendon; Gus Blass, Lit-
tle Rock; Kline's, Texarkana; Cunningham's, Pine
Bluff.
CALIFORNIA: Rodder's Mademoiselle, Fresno; Martin
Verb, San Diego; Marbro's, Inglewood; L. Hart &
Son, San Jose; Musette's, Ontario; Berthold's, Los
Gatos; Lieberg's, A I ham bra; Chic Shop, Oceanside;
Knit Togs, Huntington Park; City of Parts, San Fran-
cisco.
COLORADO: Denver Dry Goods, Denver; Style Shop, Ft.
Morgan; Brooks-Fauber, Boulder; Hall's, La Junto;
Dorothe Shoppe, Steamboat Springs; Ann's Style Shop,
Longmont; Graden Mercantile Co., Durango; Gordon
Store, Grand Junction.
CONNECTICUT: G. Fox, Hartford; Moline's, New Haven;
Chancy D'Elia, Greenwich.
DELAWARE: Braunstein's, Wilmington.
FLORIDA: Bea's Shop, Pensacola; Irwin's, Daytona
Beach.
GEORGIA: Jo-Ann, Rossville; B. Karpf, Savannah; Bo-
ll a nan's, SummervMle; Kiralfy's, Columbus; Kersey's,
Newman.
ILLINOIS: Edgar A. Stevens, Evanston; Blum's, Cham-
paign; Bromson's, Oak Park; Fashion Shop, Mt. Ver-
non; David's, Rock Island; The Fair, Kankakee; Herri n
Supply, Herrin; Kilham's, Jacksonville; Mayson's, Chi-
cago; Maxine's, Cairo; La Rose Dress Shoppe, Cicero.
INDIANA: Indiana Fur Co., Indianapolis; Hoosier
Style Shop, Hammond.
IOWA: Killian Co., Cedar Rapids; Lilyan's, Ft. Dodge;
M. L. Parker, Davenport; Younkers, Des Moines.
IDAHO: The Paris Co., Pocatello.
KANSAS: Peques-Wright, Hutchinson; Poteet's, Manhat-
tan; Morris & Son, McPherson; Jild's, Salina; Pelle-
tier's, Topeka.
KENTUCKY. A. D. Campbell, Middleboro; Major's,
Hazard.
LOUISIANA: Rosenfield's, Baton Rouge; Palais Royal,
Shreveport; Kreeger's, New Orleans; Masur Bros.,
Monroe.
MASSACHUSETTS: Filene's, Boston; Porter's, Brockton;
Lenor's, Fall River; Newtonville Outlet, Newtonville.
MICHIGAN: Jacobson Stores of Michigan; Style Shop,
Ishpeming; J. L. Hudson, Detroit; O'Donnell's Style
Shop, Ironwood; Callighan's, Ludington.
MINNESOTA: Jack Fink, New Ulm; Young-Quinlan,
Minneapolis; Herberger's, Hibbing; Massey's, Rochester.
MISSOURI: Czarlinsky's, Jefferson City; Hirsch Bros.,
St. Joseph; Kilhom's, Hannibal; Sage's, Sedolia; Smart
Wear, Moberly; Rothschild's, Kansas City; Scruggs-
Vandervoort & Barney, St. Louis.
MISSISSIPPI: Style Shop, Vicksburg; R. E. Kennington,
Jackson, George's, Natchez; Fine Bros.-Matison Com-
pany, Hattiesburg and Laurel; The Darling Shop, Co-
lumbus; De Loach's, Greenwood; Clyde's Shop, Winona.
MONTANA: Burr's, Butte; Missoula Mercantile Co., Mis-
soula; Casperson's, Conrad; Vaughn-Ragsdale, Bill-
ings.
NEBRASKA: Gold & Co., Lincoln.
NEW JERSEY: Etta's, Passaic; Dainty Apparel, Asbury
Park.
NEW YORK: H. B. Burnett, New York City; J. Kline,
Utica.
NEVADA: The Wonder, Reno.
NEW MEXICO: Mosier's, Albuquerque; Elizabeth's, Ros-
well; Fashion Salon, Artesia; Mildred & Marie, Clovis;
Forson's, Portales; Myrtke's, Carlsbad; Pauline's Style
Shop, Hobbs; Irma's, Santa Fe.
MARRIED LOVE
Take my heart if you wish, my dear,
Burn my love like a taper,
Take my money, my vows, my life,
But leave me my evening paper.
■ — Merle Beynon
NORTH CAROLINA: Lucielle, Charlotte; Helen's, Gos-
tonia; Tobias, High Point; Jean's, Raleigh; Guyes-
Betty Lou, Salisbury; Louise's, Rock Hill; S. B. Guyes,
Burlington; Nelle's, Albermarle.
NORTH DAKOTA: Hapip's Fashions, Williston; Store
Without A Name, Fargo.
OKLAHOMA: Kerr's, Oklahoma City; Field's, Tulsa;
Mildred's, Duncan.
OHIO: H. & S. Pogue, Cincinnati; Rike-Kumler, Dayton;
H. Weber, Zanesville.
OREGON: Olds & King, Portland; Sackley's, Tillamook;
Hamilton's, Albany; Greta's, Salem.
PENNSYLVANIA: Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh.
RHODE ISLAND: The Peerless Co., Pawtuckett; Glad-
dings, Providence.
SOUTH DAKOTA: Woman's Shop, Rapid City.
TENNESSEE: Miller's, Chattanooga; Miller's, Knoxville;
B. Lowenstein, Memphis; Loveman, Berger & Teitelbaum,
Nashville; Cecil Elrod's French Shoppe, Murfreesboro.
TEXAS: The White House, El Paso; Elva's, Littlefield;
Berhman's, Pampa; The Advance Shop, McAllen; Sako-
witz Bros., Houston; Frost Bros., San Antonio.
UTAH: Paris Co., Salt Lake City.
WASHINGTON, D. C.i Woodward & Lothrop.
WASHINGTON: Rhodes Bros., Tacoma; Spokane Dry
Goods, Spokane; Best's Apparel, Seattle; Caplan's,
Longview.
WEST VIRGINIA: Coyle & Richardson, Charleston;
Bradshaw-Diehl, Huntington.
WISCONSIN: Edith's, Fond du Lac; Baron Bros., Madi-
son; H. C. Prange Co., Green Bay; Stuart's, Milwaukee.
WYOMING: Stuart's, Casper; Baertsch's, Rawlins; y
Suzanne Shop, Buffalo; Kassis Dept. Store, Cheyenne; h
Elliot Shop, Rock Springs; Smart Shop, Worland.
2>aed If 'out jbieam ctto4Ue
Jdoak like lUu?
PAUL LASZLO, internationally famous de-
signer of beautiful homes and furnishings, j
is designing The Californian House . . from i
your ideas and suggestions . . just for you
to inspect and admire. A contemporary one- |
story house soon to be constructed in fash- I
ionable Brentwood.
WHAT ONE feature would you like to see
in a modern 2-bedroom house? Would you
like a den or an additional bedroom? What |
one thing would be most important to you
if you could have your choice? It's not too
late to send your thoughts to us . . but hurry!
THE CALIFORNIAN house will be present- j
ed with complete drawings, renderings and
floor plan in the November issue of The Cali-
fornian Magazine. Soon after construction
it will be pictured in The Californian and
two weeks' open house to the public will be
sponsored by The Californian Magazine.
SEND YOUR suggestions today, to
THE CALIFORNIAN
1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15
12
THE CALIFORNIAN
I Robes
for your Holiday
Promotions!
Including zipper or wraparound
, styles in Sheercord or in Cordu-
; roy, Raylaine, Cotton or Rayon
Quilts or Parker-Wilder Flannels.
j Style 604 (Pictured) Quilted Rayon
| Crepe, dolman sleeve wrap-
! around, in Pink, Blue, or White
I with floral print. Lined in harmon-
' I izing solid color crepe.
! Sizes 14 to 20. Under $25.00 at
, your favorite store, or write.
M. R.
SFLEISCH MAN
APPAREL CITY LU.
SAN FRANCISCO
nH
• See page 60 for a list of stores where this robe is available.
October, 1948
13
-^kS
\
m
■ ta a)
P
f.
Aj
•
1
Quaintly appealing . . . sleep pajamas of multifilament crepe, by California's
aristocratic designer: point d'esprit lace on yoke of blouse which may be
tucked in or worn like a jacket. In pink, blue or white, sizes 32 to 38.
At better stores everywhere.
OF CALIFORNIA
417 East Pico Boulevard
14
THE C Al I FORM I AN
GENTLEMEN PREFER . . . Camel Hair.
And Dutch Girl Yarn is the answer! Ideal
for men's sweaters and socks, this new 3-ply
Natural Tan Camel Hair combines lightness
and warmth without bulk for easy knitting.
It launders easily and beautifully. Five 1-
ounce skeins at $1.00 each make this attrac-
tive sweater. Camel Hair Yarns and directions
for the sweater, plus many new Dutch Girl
Yarns, are at department stores and yarn
shops. Or write direct to The Bridgeton Co.,
Inc., Box 5280, Metro Station, Los Angeles
55, Calif.
COOKS' DELIGHT ... and it's a delight
to anyone to bake perfect pancakes. You can
do it, with Grandma Layne's Pancake Griddle.
The secret is correct baking heat . . . and
this unique griddle has a thermometer that
tells you when it's ready! Finest cookware
aluminum in beautiful wedding gift finish,
it's a must for every kitchen. The nearly
square shape and large size accommodate four
big cakes at once. If not at your department
store, order postpaid $5.95, tax included, from
Layne Mfg. Co., 2035 Milan Avenue, South
Pasadena, Calif.
PERSONALIZED POTTERY ... to make
eating fun for the children. A colorful, dur-
able 4-piece set of dinner and butter plates,
mug and bowl . . . with your child's first
name baked into each piece. Enthusiastic
letters are received daily about this attractive
set, for it pleases parents as well as chil-
dren. Ideal for the birthday or occasional
gift. Just send child's name and sex (pattern
differs for boy and girl) with check or money
order to Johnson's China & Glass, Dept. C,
11 Court Street, Binghamton, New York. Only
$5 prepaid. Add 50c if west of the Mississippi.
THE VOYAGER . . . Emmet of California
has created this stunning top grain cowhide
bag to double as a handbag and overnight
case. It is roomy enough for nightwear and
cosmetics, yet easy to carry over-the-shoulder.
Ideal for plane or train, it avoids the bulk
of usual cosmetic cases. With handy inner and
outer pockets, sized ll"xlOV£". Black, lug-
gage and dark brown. At better stores, or
order from Emmet Corp., 2837 West Pico,
Los Angeles, Calif. $35.94 includes excise,
plus 2y2% sales tax in California.
DEMI-TRAY ... A unique ashtray for
after-dinner smokers, this clips to the rim of
any saucer. It provides the ideal gift for
every hostess, the most practical measure for
smoking pleasure. The bright non-tarnish fin-
ish does not scratch and is easy to clean.
Distinctive in design, this attractively gift-
packaged set of four Demi-Trays is just $2.95
Add 2V2% sales tax (8c) in California.
Orders are promptly filled by Fred L. Sey-
mour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
lhis is one
bridesmaid's dress* /
you'll wear
^ again
and again
STYLE No. 2367 RETAILS ABOUT $25.00
in fine shops everywhere.
for store nearest you write to
House of Lucky Bridal Dresses
APPAREL CITY, SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA
October, 1948
15
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
ILmas Uzfts in the
\jalifornia manner
GAY '90 JIGGER: Amusing bar accessory, this
corseted torso in ceramic. The bust holds a 1-oz.
jigger; the base a double jigger. Attractively
gift boxed. $1.00, postpaid.
TABLE LAMP: Wonderful miniature of an old-
fashioned wood-burning brass stove, complete
with tiny double boiler and tea kettle. Piquant
aproned shade is washable. $12.50 postpaid.
MILK SET: No problem coaxing the youngsters
to drink milk when it's poured from this frisky
ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching mug comes with
barnyard pictures. Pitcher plus one mug, boxed,
for $3.95, postpaid.
NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order.
(Residents of California, please add 2>/i% sales tax).
Send for illustrated catalog of
other delightful California
gift items.
TEE CORRAL SHOP
BOX 918 KANCHO SANTA FE « CALIFORNIA
TWEEDY TIN . . . presents this exquisite
shadow showcase for your earrings. Entirely
handmade, with each design an original, it
is created expressly for those who appreciate
the smartest in tin. The case holds twelve
pairs of your pet ear ornaments on velvet
shelves, protected by a glass front. It stands
on your dresser or hangs on the wall. Send
orders for Christmas gifts. (Special shelves to
hold earrings for pierced ears, SI extra).
Just send $10, check or money order, to
Tweedy Tin, Box 226, Downey, Calif.
YO-YO . . . Charming answer to the request
for a really different bracelet is this Yo-Yo
combination. The fine metal fob dangles from
your wrist and can be unfastened to provide
that wonderful gadget, the Yo-Yo. This new-
est in conversation pieces of jewelry comes
in either gold or silver finish to accessorize
every costume. A novel Christmas gift, for
only S1.00 each, plus 20% luxury tax; 21,4%
sales tax in California. At the store in your
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, Calif.
TIDY TOES . . . Tabbies present this latest
version of the California foot mittens. Styled
for indoor lounging, dorm, patio and pool,
this adorable set features a new two-button
back closing. For comfort and foot glamour,
Tabbies are exciting Christmas news. Soft
satin in black, white or pink; and quilted
chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. Sizes
S-M-L. Send your check or money order for
S3. 95 (add 10c tax in California, 12c in Los
Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South
Main, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
DAINTY DISPENSERS ... for your purse
are these two. Scent Safe is a handy per-
fume dispenser. It allows you to use that
precious scent a drop-at-a-time, prevents evap-
oration and is guaranteed never to leak.
Powder Safe is a spillproof holder for your
powder. Convenient in size and modern in
shape, these come in gold plate or chrome.
$2.25 each, or $4.25 the set, postpaid. Add
2'/2% sales tax in California, and send your
orders to Tres Hombres, P. O. Box 592,
La Jolla, Calif.
TASSEL TRIUMPH ... is the name of
Phil Sockett's new belt for fall, a soft suede
midriff-fancier designed as an attractive ac-
cent for the season's sportswear. This
adjustable leather-backed belt combines gay
suede lacing and tassels against a buckle
covered with gold or silver leather. Suede in
all fall colors, to match your skirts and
dresses. Sizes 24 to 32, about S3.50 at your
favorite store. Or write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co.,
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main St., Los Angeles
15, Calif.
16
THE CALIFORNIAN
— WWft
p$w***~
TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly
appropriate for fall occasions. Extra good fit
is assured with adjustable straps that smartly
buckle for added fashion interest. Rich suedes
in brown and black, or red in the softest
elkskin. This easy-to-clean footgear is a wise
choice, indeed. Nicely priced at $6.95. Please
add 15c postage and 2l/o% sales tax if in
California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send your or-
der to Bernadette's Shop, Box 372, Balboa
Island, Calif.
PURE GOLD ... are the petals that whirl
and swirl with every motion of the bottle
in this exhilarating perfume, so appropriately
named White Christmas. It is the breath of
fresh-fallen snow, heightened by the magic
of nature's woodland. This delicious scent for
the season's glamor touch you'll want for
yourself, and for your friends. White Christ-
mas Perfume is S7.80 the full ounce, includ-
ing the excise tax, 21/4% sales tax in Cali-
fornia. Order now for the holidays, from The
Margorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los
Angeles 15, Calif.
KNEE-HI ... for the most comfortable wear
under your pencil-slim skirts and fall formals
are these Willys of Hollywood seamfree
stockings, fitted to perfect below-the-knee
length. Finest DuPont nylon, either 15 or 20
denier, with convenient ruffled garter top.
Newest fall shades: smokecloud, autumn
brown, bronze tone, gunmetal, navy, black,
topaz, green, Bermuda, negrita. Sizes 8 to 11.
Knee-Hi's are just $1.65 at May Company-
Wilshire, Los Angeles; Sage & Allen, Hart-
ford; Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago. Or write
Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hol-
lywood 38, Calif.
MIRRO-LENS GOGGLES ... an outstand-
ing technical and utility improvement over or-
dinary sunglasses, Mirro-Lens reflects the
rays before they contact the lens. It eliminates
96% of the harmful rays, so eyes relax com-
pletely in the strongest glare and dazzle of
water, ice, snow or beaches. Of finest quality
6-space lens, optically ground. 14-K gold-
plated frames and mother of pearl nosepiece.
The ideal Christmas or birthday gift for men
or women. $15.00 postpaid, plus 2:/2% sales
tax in California. Fred Seymour Co., Box
1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth.
The perfect present for that friend with a
patio or garden. Just throw it 'round the
pole and zip it up! No more mats or make-
shift napkins to blow away. Three sharp
colors: red and white; blue and white; or
green and white checks. It fits your garden
table, round or square. Mercerized cotton in
smart basket weave, hand-printed. $4.95,
postage prepaid, plus 2l/2% sales tax if in
California. Matching ready-hemmed napkins,
18 inches wide, just 40c apiece. The Mar-
gorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los
Angeles 15, Calif.
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
A.mas Ut'fts in the
yjalifornia manner
CHILD'S SPURS: What a treasure for the tiny
cowboyl Perfect pair of spurs in white and gold
metal. Complete in every detail, with blunted
rowels for safety. Fits over any boot or shoe.
$2.95, postpaid.
SPINNING ROPE: Any youngster can become a
champ with this trick spinning rope. Leather
swivel handle-hold, stationary loop. Comes with
complete directions. $1.00 postpaid.
TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint-
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post-
age).
NO C.O.D. — Please. Send check or money order.
(Residents of California, please add 2'/2% sales tax).
Send for Illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
ftOX 918 i RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
October, 1948
17
■
is a date time dress just lor you. Cohama faille
with Ducness plaid taffeta fish tail Lack treat-
ment. In these smart fall colors; black beauty,
pine green, Drown bark, dusk blue. Sizes 9 to
15. About $22.95.
ALICE OF CALIFORNIA • 75 FREMONT STREET • SAN FRANCISCO 5 • CALIFORNIA
18
THE CALIFORNIAM
THEY ALL SMELL THE ROSES
by Sam Baiter
1AM NOT one to be unfaithful to tradition, so in the
truest form of the cliche, it is now time for me to say
that the tang of autumn is in the air, the sound of the thud
of pigskin upon the cleated shoe is abroad in the land, and
up and down the Pacific Coast the smell of roses is fragrant
on the campi.
This, of course, is a sportswriter's way of saying that
the football season is here, and everybody wants in on
the Rose Bowl.
Our crystal ball is no more omniscient than anyone's else,
and my private phrenologist has bumps no bigger than the
next guy's, but I've been in touch with Pigskin Petes from
Seattle to Spaulding Field who say they know all about
the price of tackles on the hoof in November, and with their
deathless advice in mind, I am able now to give the readers
of The Californian the precise standing of the Pacific Coast
Conference come the first week in December when all the
punts and passes have left the playing field for the history
book showers. Here it is:
1. California 6. Stanford
2. Southern California 7. Washington
3. Oregon ■ 8. Washington State
4. UCLA 9. Idaho
5. Oresron State 10. Montana
The Golden Rears are our nomination for the doubtful
honor of defending the faded West Coast prestige against
the Big Nine champion on New Year's Day. Of course, we
are not alone in this prediction. From Strawberrv Canyon
to the Richmond Ferry, there is full agreement. Elsewhere,
there are doubts. In Eugene they are sure it is Oregon's
year. In Los Angeles, Southern California supporters do not
understand why California, which was swamped by the Tro-
jans last year, should be favored this year, with both teams
boasting almost identical first strings. And at Westwood
Village the Rruins think the Bears beat them by a fluke
last year, that lightning will not strike twice.
In non-partisan circles opinion is evenly divided between
California and Oregon. There is a great deal of similarity
in the setups of both institutions. Both brought in new
coaches last year, both were tremendously successful with
their new mentors, and both have been promised that after
the one-year "building", now is the time. Neither at Eugene
nor at Berkeley is the Rose Rowl a forbidden subject for
conversation. Quite the contrary. Alumni of both institu-
tions talk of nothing else. And, as we have said, sideline
observers, with no axes to grind, generally support them
by saying that the 1948 Coast Conference race will be a two-
team affair.
Coach Lynn Waldorf, in an unguarded moment, has al-
ready confided to a fellow-coach that he has so many line-
men of equal ability that he is able to field three complete
lines. Four men last year were among those receiving mythi-
cal post-season honors: Cunningham, an end, Turner, a
tackle, and Franz and Baker, guards. Only three first-
stringers from the 1947 team, which won 9 out of 10 in
Pappy Waldorf's debut, have been graduated. Backs are
almost as abundant. Several veteran combines are back,
but at least one sophomore, a young man named Pete Scha-
barum. is going to have to be in there. Pete is a triple-threater
who has even the conservative Waldorf excited. However,
the grade-A All-American candidate is a young man named
Jackie Jensen. Jensen is a baseball pitcher who has been
eagerly sought by the big-leagues. In the spring of '47 he
pitched California to a national championship. Consequent-
ly, he missed spring practice and was a late starter in the
Fall. This Spring he was ineligible when baseball season
rolled around, was unable to play, and spent his time out
on the football field, "observing" football practice.
While "observing", Jensen found time to do some honest
perspiring while in gymnastic attire, and consequently be-
gins the 1948 campaign in splendid shape. Jensen trades off
at the tailback and fullback spots, and is hailed as the
sweetest thing in moleskins since Vic Bottari. It is around
Mr. Jensen that Californians expect to complete their saga
of rags to riches.
Oregon, after a slow start, wound up the 1947 campaign
with six straight wins and at season's end was admittedly
the hottest team in the Conference. The 1948 Ducks have 21
returning lettermen and a first-string line intact. They will
have depth in an outstanding group of transfers, including
the flashy Woodley Lewis from Los Angeles City College
and Johnny McKay from Purdue. Another Purdue transfer
is Sam Nevills, a 240-pound guard, who held the heavy-
weight wrestling championship of the Army. Brad Ecklund,
center, and Dan Garza, end, were named on several All-
Coast selections. But what Oregon has, more than anything
else, is Norman Van Brocklin.
Van Brocklin was far and away the West Coast's best
passer last year. He was the West's only throwing rival
to the Lujacks and the Laynes of other sectors. If Oregon
is to win it will have to be on the good right arm of Van
Brocklin.
On the theory that it is unwise to bet against the champion,
we have dropped Oregon to third behind the defending
champion, the University of Southern California. We think
the Trojans will make it a three-team race, and may very
possibly repeat as the winner. The miserable showing of
Jeff Cravath's team in the Rose Rowl has made it lose
favor with many observers. Rut Coach Cravath has always
done all right in his own league, and has, in fact, never
lost to either California or Oregon since he took over the
reins of the Trojan steed in 1942.
The Trojans will be stronger. One reason is the return
of Art Rattle at right halfback after a season's layoff. An-
other halfback returning is Jay (Merry Go) Roundy, a
speedster with front-wheel drive. And a sophomore named
Ralph Pucci will be in there to add more speed. Pucci is
from Canton. Ohio, and when he came west Ohio State
coaches moaned they had lost their greatest prep prospect.
Trojans are a dozen deep or more in the backfield, have
three veteran signal callers in the T-formation and are
plenty potent at the ends and tackles.
One other team emerges as the bona fide dark horse . .
the team that may sneak in if the others falter. This is
UCLA. The Rruins last year had one of the most peculiar
seasons on record. Every game they won they won decisively,
and looked like champions in the process. In the four
games they played which were close, and could have gone
either way, they lost. One to Northwestern by a point. The
others to Southern Methodist, USC and California by a touch-
down. Rut the Uclans still have a rough, tough" line and
a pair of fleet backs in Skip Rowland and Ernie Johnson.
And end Bill Clements may be the Bruins' third All-Ameri-
can end in a row.
In the second division, at least in pre-season ratings, aie
Oregon State, Stanford, Washington and Washington State.
Idaho and Montana are in the league, too, but that's all.
There is the Football Fashion for 1948 on the Pacific
Coast. Only one subversive thought disturbs us: With the
vision still fresh of Illinois and Michigan at Pasadena on
previous New Year's Days, will the boys now be fighting
to get into that Rose Bowl, or will they be fighting to stay out?
Oclob.r, 1948
19
MAKE IT YOURSELF
No Experience Or Special Tools Needed
1 . Trace Pattern on Wood
2. Saw It Out
3. Put It Together
35c
Hollywood
What-Not
#58
50c
Monterey
Dropleaf Table
#72
25c
Catalina
Window
#61
FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
Works Just Like a Dress Pattern
SAVES MONEY, TOO!
CLIP THIS COUPON
ILLUSTRATED ABOVE:
G Hollywood Whot-Not Shelf #58 — 35c
□ Monterey Dropleof Table, #72 — 50c
□ Catalina Window Valance, #61 — 25c
ALSO AVAILABLE:
fj Multi-Purpose Kitchen Unit, #65 — 75c
□ Double Duty Smoker, #57 — 50e
□ Spice And Utensil Shelf, #63 — 25c
□ Cobbler's Bench Coffee Table, #60 — 35c
□ Studio Photo Album & Guest Book, #69 — 25c
□ Letters And Numerals, #66 — 25c
□ Wren House, #71— 25c
□ Larchmont Knicknack Shelf, #68 — 20c
□ Revolving Parts Rack, #64 — 20c
□ Towel Rack, #70 — 25c
□ Bel-Air Outdoor Dining Set, #62 — 75c
□ California Lawn Chair, #55 — 50c
□ Santa Barbara Bookcase, #77 — 35c
□ Beverly Hills Wall Shelf, #67 — 30c
□ Child's Desk & Seat, #74— 50c
□ Child's Wheelbarrow, #59— 30c
□ Novelty Companion Pictures, #76 — 25c
EACH PATTERN ILLUSTRATED
Add 3c to each item for handling and postage
Name
Address
City
State..
MAIL TO: The Margorita Shop,
1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
NEW RECORDINGS SET
FOR PETRILLO'S NOD
by frances anderson
OCTOBER'S autumn briskness, much more
than the spring months, seems the beginning
of things . . . al least it always affects us
that way. Consequently, we feel it's entire-
ly seasonable to dust off the crystal ball and
predict a few events you may expect in the
near future, regarding the world of records,
natch.
For that matter, one of our foreshadowings
may already have come to pass, since we
must write this pillar weeks ahead of
time. Our secret operatives, hiding under
wastebaskets in Petrillo's offices, tell us that
the musicians' union ban on making record-
ings is apt to go off any time after Septem-
ber 25. And as soon as that happens, you
can expect to make the acquaintance of some
interesting new recordings. For instance, King
Cole is all ready to wax a follow-up to his
smash hit, "Nature Boy." He has already
tried out the tune at Ciro's in Hollywood,
where his audience went mad over it. And
you will, too. It's called "Portrait of Jenny,"
after the Selznick picture of the same name.
It's a lush, haunting melody comparable to
"Laura" of yesteryear in quality and at-
mosphere and you can bet that top artists
will rush to follow -Nat's example.
ISHAM BACK
Then there are a couple of novelties ready
to assault your ears and drive you nuts the
minute the ban is lifted. We're lukewarm
about novelties generally and guess these are
as cute as the general run of such things.
But their authorship is interesting. One of
them, "She Picked It Up In Mexico," a Latin-
type number, is by one of the most popular
band-leaders of the 20's, Isham Jones. He
gave up baton-waving to live on his ASCAP
royalties some years back, a regrettable de-
cision to those who loved his dance music,
and this tune will probably add to his income.
The other is a natural for the bands that
double in vaudeville routines . . . it's called
"The Baby Sitter Song" and was written
by John Beal, a young actor noted for his
serious, sensitive personality and sincere act-
ing ability. It just shows you never can tell.
The new talent department is all ready,
too, with a potential sockeroo in the small-
ensemble division. A brand new trio, The
Black-Smith Trio (one of the boys is named
Black, one Smith, and we can only guess
about the third one), has made a couple of
sides for a small outfit named Jewel Records
and has since appeared on Mark Warnow's
"Sound Off" radio show. They just sort of
appeared on the musical scene . . . but take
il from us, they're here to stay. Piano, guitar
and bass comprise the works, but what the
boys do with their material is sensational.
They're real legit musicians, with a wealth
of modern harmonics and inventiveness that
is endlessly fascinating to hear. Watch for
them . . . one of the big companies will
snatch them up and promote them to eminence,
just as Capitol did for King Cole. The lift-
ing of the ban probably will affect the out-
put of recorded serious music less than it
will the popular numbers, but we can look
forward again to a greater variety and ex-
perimentation in the type of music recorded.
Meanwhile, you can still add worthwhile
items to your permanent record collection,
with a little care in choosing.
NEW ALBUMS
Mercury Records' acquisition of the Tele-
funken catalog, mentioned in these pages
some months ago, results now in the first
releases since pre-war days of noted European
musicians. Outstanding: Smetana, "Wallen-
stein's Camp" Symphonic Poem, recorded by
the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra under
Kubelik. This almost unknown work of the
Bohemian composer gets first-rate handling.
IN OCTOBER
{"October in California is a month of
^^ extremes . . and an extremely fine
month in which to visit the Golden
State! Where else can you expect to
enjoy a bit of Indian summer . . with
swimming in the briny . . and a visit
to America's foremost desert resort,
Palm Springs, which officially "opens"
this month? Add to this the oppor-
tunity to visit mile-high mountain re-
sorts, and the ever-tempting sea and
landscape hereabouts.
Obviously, if you're an October trip-
per . . you'll need a wardrobe as versa-
tile as the program you plan to enjoy.
Your basic travel suit is the start of
everything: you'll wear it to town, on
your browsing expeditions, to lunch and
even to tea (the proper accessories can
dress it up to surprising heights . .
so remember a lovely blouse, a bril-
liant scarf, a scattering of jewelled pins,
a fur stole or scarf, and an extra hat
or so to change its mood).
Be sure to include a comfortable, de-
lightful knit, the perfect packable and
non-crushable favorite . . or a soft wool
which is adaptable to a dozen uses.
Make sure your topcoat is toned to wear
with these basic pieces. Since October
pi eludes a big social season, bring a
cocktail suit . . in some of the satin
brocades, perhaps . . or an ankle-length
dress in one of the exciting new fabrics.
A formal gown only if you have great
social aspirations . . and you may find
the jewelled blouse (news this season)
is the perfect mid-seasoning for you
can wear this with a slim to-the-ankle
skirt or a billowing floor-length one.
Furs? Wonderful to have, comfort-
able to wear on so many occasions even
in California in October! But to the
opposite extreme . . bring swim suit
and play togs for an occasional trip
to desert or beach, or to wear in some
sunny patio.
So it's heigh-ho if you come to the
fair state of California this month.
Come prepared!
WEATHER DATA FOR OCTOBER
Los Angeles San Francisco
Average Maximum 76.3 67.8
Average Minimum 55.3 53.8
Highest 102 96
Lowest AG 43
Percentage Sunshine 76 70
20
THE CALIFORNIAN
CALIFORNIA
LINGERIE
■I
BO-PEEP" glamorizes your tiny waist, pampers your luxury leanings with oodles of fullness and oodles af lace.
Back splits for glorious sleeping comfort . . . Softest multifilament rayon crepe in white, pink, blue or jonquil . . .
32-40 . Go peep ... at "Bo-Peep" . . . for beauty and luxury and comfort . . . About $9.00 at finer stores
...OR WRITE CHIC LINGERIE CO., INC., 1126 SANTEE ST., LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA a {jdkh*»ie- 0*«ftl>
JHHRMflHSHiHEBBHHHBHHHiHHBHBIHI^^HB^^^^^lK^ • ■ __
October, 1948
21
Available in:
ALABAMA — Birmingham, Marion Shop.
AWZONA — Phoenix, Diamond's.
CALIFORNIA — Bakersfield, Malcolm
Brock; Claremont, Town & Country;
Eureka, Daly Bros.; Glendale, Fash-
ion Center; Highland Park, Ivers;
Hollywood, Joyce Frocks; Hunting-
ton Park, Campus Togs; La Jolla,
lllers; Los Angeles, The Broadway,
Bullock's and Sally Shops; Ocean-
side, Char'ily; Pacific Beach, Caro-
lyn's; Pasadena, J. W. Mathers; Po-
mona, Orange Belt Emporium; Rich-
mond, Albert's; San Bernardino, The
Harris Co.; San Diego, Marston's,
and (North Park) Adorable Shop;
San Jose, L. Hart; San Rafael, Al-
bert's; Santa Ana, Rankin's Dry
Goods Co.; Santa Cruz, Sam Leask
& Sons; Southgate, Fun Togs; Stock-
ton, Katten & Marengo; Ventura,
Jan's; West Los Angeles, Rudolph
Oavis; Whittier, Tibbetts.
TEXAS — Ft. Worth, R. E. Cox; San An-
tonio, Wolf Marx; Van Horn, Benton
Store.
WASHINGTON— Vancouver, Hadley's;
Spokane, Rusan's.
For other stores, not listed in your
community, write to Mira lorna Fash-
ions, Inc.
IN SUEDE CORD BY COHAMA.
SIZES 12 TO 20— GRAY, MOCHA,
GREEN, ROYAL, BEIGE,
WINE. To retail at about $11.
cJMi/^^dl/l^ ... at a budget price!
A Mira-Loma design with clever stitching . . . jumbo muff
pockets . . . covered buttons. Important details unusual at a popular price.
Mira-Loma Fashions, Inc. 86o south los angeles street, los angeles
22
THE CALIFORNIAN
l/ou'll be pretty
coming or going in this Western Fashions authentic matching
skirt and stole - gray with white stripe, in a California weight wool
and rayon mixture.
Starlet Louise La Planche shows off the button front skirt with the triple tier bustle back,
and the matching stole with harmonizing fringe. Designed by Jery Grinel. $12.95 com-
plete in sizes 10-16.
MAIL ORDERS FILLED IMMEDIATELY AT
Campus Togs
SANTA ANA, CALIFORNIA
October, 1948
23
FALL SEEDING
WITH
IS BEST!
This fall you can fix up a summer
ravished lawn or build a new one
with greater ease. Scotts Lawn Food plus Weed
Control kills the weeds and adds nourishment, and.
Scotts Seed is unsurpassed for making a thick,
velvety carpet of grass. But start
right with the "know how" of our
IAWN CARE bulletins. For a free
2 year subscription, drop a card to ..
O M £c&& & SONS CO.
Seedsmen since 1870, Morysville, Ohio
.PALO ALTO, CALIF.
CALIFORNIA COOKS
CALIFORNIA COOKS
WITH the golden fruits of California,
with the delicacies that are available
in your own home town ! Helen Evans
Brown's famous cook book, California
Cooks, contains more than 100 unusual
California recipes . . menus galore!
Write for Your Copy Today!
COOKING for your family and friends
is easy . . and fun . . when you have
such wonderful, unusual recipes. CALI-
FORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep
in your kitchen . . it suggests the
proper menu, the exciting dish . . at
just the right time. It's a practical and
appreciated gift.
AND California Cooks comes to you,
postpaid, for only 50 cents!
Wriie fcr Your Copy Today!
JUST SEND 50 cents for each copy,
your name and address to
THE MLIIMMN
1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15.
STORY OF PORTOLA ONE
OF BRAVE CONQUEST
by hazel alien pulling
(captain Gaspar de Portola, young, adven-
turous, "leather-jacket" soldier of Spain, has
left for us his story of the white man's first
intrusion of California — the Indian's western
paradise.
Commissioned in 1769 to execute the plans
of Spain's representative in the New World,
dynamic, mad Galvez, Gaspar de Portola led
overland from Mexico the advance guard of
conquest. He sought the storied Bay of Mon-
terey. His diary, kept on the journey, may
be read in the original Spanish and in trans-
lation, in Publications of Pacific Coast His-
tory, I, 39-57.
Without vainglory and without divulging
state secrets, Portola tells his story. It is an
account of brave men, bravely led. Long,
toilsome days spent on sandy stretches and
steep mountain inclines, restful camps set at
nightfall near waterholes and pastures where
natives came and looked with awe-filled eyes;
grave doubts and dangers that beset the
wanderers — these are the tales that he tells.
It's a desultory account of adventure that
reveals clearly the passage of time and of
landscape, the endurance of hardship, and
the grip of grim determination.
RECORD SUPPRESSED
In the same volume there is another ac-
count of the same expedition. This record,
first printed in 1770 in Mexico, was immedi-
ately suppressed by the government. For,
says Miguel Costanso, its author, "repeated
attempts of a foreign nation upon the north-
ern coast of California, with designs by no
means friendly," had been made. And, he
goes on, "the country was of pleasing aspect
. . . the land capable of producing all sorts
of fruit." Costanso had traveled with Gaspar
de Portola; he knew the treasures awaiting
the conqueror. He disclosed values that Spain
did not wish the world to recognize and
motives that Spain would not admit. The
record was confiscated and kept secret for
decades. But today, you may read — and live
again those early days when all California
was an outpost and its history just begun.
But would you go back further still to
view California's beginnings? Read then, the
life of Jose de Galvez and his mad plans
and machinations for far-flung empires in
the New World. Herbert I. Priestly's book,
Jose de Galvez, published in 1916 and now
found only in libraries, is engrossing history
that runs its parallel with today's mad whirl
of international intrigue and warfare.
PALOU'S STORY VIVID
California has never lacked adventurers
and tales of bravery and devotion to a cause.
One of her oldest devotees was the missionary
who accompanied Portola on his northbound
travels. Father Junipero Serra's life among
the Indians as told by his associate, Father
Palou, has become a classic among California
books. Because Father Serra's life was synon-
ymous with California, the story of his life
carries the California story through its early
years to 1784. Its best translation was done
by C. S. Williams in 1913. It, too, may be
found in libraries.
The story of California's exploration makes
a drama unexcelled, for adventure led them
all. Accounts of the many who participated,
gathered into a rapid-survey volume by Robert
Glass Cleland, provides the outline. Path-
finders (Macmillan, 1929) sketches in pano-
ramic sequence the story of California
through the lives of its bravest men. It
recounts in brief compass the activities of
those who beat in deeper furrow the path
begun by the bravest of them all, Gaspar de
Portola.
If you have any questions or would like
other specific material, please write to Dr.
Pulling in care of The Californian.
HOUSE OF MURPHY
for gourmets only
Fine food in an atmosphere
of convivial friendliness!
Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth
CR 5-0191
BR 2-3432
EVERY DAY
FROM 11:30
m
wk
M
VENTURA BLVD.
1 block west of
Coldwater Canyon
LA CI ENEGA BLVD.
1 Block north of Wilshire
§mmmmmmmmmwmmmmmmmm
!
Italian
and French
Cuisine
!
8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
24
THE C A t I FORN I AN
A. These fabulous Mirro-Lens glasses come in black, blond and amber, simulat ed tortoise shell frames, at $9.95 per pair, to give new comfort and eye ease.
B. Mirro-Lens goggles, gold-filled, at $15, with special brow rest
C. Driving glasses with amber-clear lens, $6.95, with gold frames
Order Now!
Ideal For Holiday Gifts
THE CALIFORNIA MIRRO-LENS
NEW AS TOMORROW
Now . . by mail . . you can order these famous
Mirro-Lens sun glasses direct from California.
You can see out perfectly . . no one can look in.
And they can be used as a handy make-up mirror.
Scientifically designed to eliminate 95% of
harmful infra-red and ultra-violet sun rays . .
magically mirrored to eliminate all glare. Ideal for
sports, driving, sun bathing and all outdoors.
For men and women. . Fun To Wear! Optically
ground and polished. Smartly styled simulated
tortoise shell frames in black, blond and amber . .
gold-filled, too! They make ideal gifts and you
will want a pair for yourself. Use the handy
coupon below . . today!
To: The Margorita Shop,
1018 South Main Street,
Los Angeles 15, California.
Please send me, postpaid, these Mirro-Lens glasses:
A. Simulated Tortoise Shell Frames, black, blond,
amber, $9.95 ea JO
(Circle your color choice)
B. Gold-filled frames with special brow rest, $15 ea □
C. Driving glasses, amber lens, 12-carat gold
frames, $6.95 JJ
Check □ or Money Order □ enclosed
(Name)
(Address)
(City) (Zone) (State)
Please add 2V2% sales tax if you live in California
October, 1941
25
Style No. 1473. In black, white, pastels or Jewel toned Taffeta. To retail under $25.00 at your favorite store
EMMA DOMB, Inc., 2225 Palou Avenue, APPAREL CITY, San Francisco 24, California
• See page 61 for list of stores where this dress is available.
26
THE CALI FORNI AN, October, 1941
c_ya^ \
X6 KXa^cq
BY SALLY DICKASON
SALLY DICKASON
HPhere'll be dancing in the streets in San Francisco . . this month . . with joyous celebrations scheduled
during two weeks of carnival celebrating that day 179 years ago when Portola and has band stumbled
onto San Francisco Bay. So if you're visiting this city in October, your program will be dramatized by
costume balls, parades, and excitement, besides the opera, symphony, sports event and other usual diver-
sion. . . . What to wear for all this gaiety? Suit yourself in San Francisco, an ambiguous
but succint bit of advice. One good suit with alternately plain or fancy blouses, a fresh
posie in your buttonhole if you want to go completely native (you'll have every
doorman in town nodding a pleasant greeting!) . . . Bring a tailored wool dress
or gabardine, those patient perennials, for sight-seeing jaunts and comfort. A
topper to be worn over either suit or dress, for although this is a balmy month,
nights and some days are cool. . . . For special luncheons, dinners, informal
dancing you'll make good use of a basic crepe or wool, brightened or enriched
with jewelry or furs, an imaginative hat! . . . The ankle length after-dark dress
for bigger evenings; for really ultra formal events an elegant gown, for San Francisco
"dresses" for gala occasions. ... Be sure to visit smart shops along Grant Avenue, Post Street; go into
Chinatown where pagoda-roofed stores and restaurants line narrow streets; see the Chinese opera at
least once. . . . Don't miss a cable car ride up swank Nob Hill, down scenic Rus-
sian Hill . . . to Fisherman's ^iJvvvT S Wharf where there are wonderful seafood restaurants,
sturdy little boats bob
"Bohemian phase"
writers still live in
apartments. . . .
equalled food! )
Gate Park with its
tea-garden, aquari-
Golden Gate Bridge
ing at docks, impatient to be gone. . . . Revive the famous
of history at
squat wooden
&&SL-3L-.
Go down hill to little 1 7 |f" J
. . Across town you
5 miles of forests and lawns and
um. . . . And of course you can't
longest bridge span in the world. . . .
your sightseeing sitting down, have cocktails at the Palace
or lunch at historic Garden Court, at the St. Francis Mural
Drake's Starlite Roof (sunlight view by day!) The Cliff
sea and Seal Rocks. ... At least once, whisk to the Top of
and one of the most powerful views this side of heaven. . . .
in San Francisco whether you eat at Schroeder's (spare ribs,
or El Prado (roast beef au jus a la wheelcart). . . . Good
like Amerlio's (warm and intimate and expensive), The Blue
gay), The Fly Trap (no flies, no atmosphere, wonderful food).
&# AT (L
Telegraph Hill, where artists and
shacks right next to chrome-shiny
Italy (unadorned restaurants, un-
• "must see" Golden
bridle trails, Oriental
afford to miss the
t^isJzi '- 1'' I If you prefer to take
,, |M Q Hotel's Happy Valley,
<<\ ll- Room, Sir Francis
House overlooking the
the Mark for cocktails
Dinner is an occasion
sauerkraut, dark beer)
food in small places,
Fox (friendly and
The Shadows ( red
jutting out of Tele-
MMJMfgli?
ft
checkered table cloths, sawdust and a view), Julius' Castle
graph Hill and overlooking the Bay, The Iron Pot where artists of varying talents eat and show their
1 wares. . . . Have French food at Jack's, Armenian food at Omar Khayyam's,
ff \r f Russian food with gypsy music at Balalaika, Chinese food with or without
i—tt-*- — £^— chopsticks at the swish Lamps of China (or any of the little unswish basement
hideouts like Lee Jun.) To these places your suit or basic wool dress is ac-
JUL
©
1
n
n
ceptable . . . and in them you can go on to theatre, symphony, opera. Open-
— ing nights, of course, are more formal. . . . For hotel dancing, The Palace,
Mark Hopkins, Fairmont, St. Francis. . . . Night clubs to see (a bit less formal) House
of Harris, Lido, Bimbo's and Forbidden City all have good floorshows, fun. . . . And be-
fore you call it a day, sometime past midnight, drop in for a sandwich or plate of Mexican
food at Al Williams' Papagayo Room at the Fairmont: Celebrity Haven.
27
Jjallet length for after dark. Helga's way with
taffeta and imported gold lame; about $30. Gowns
photographed in Palace of Legion of Honor.
Sophisticated San Francisco, lovely city of the
Golden Gate and true metropolis of the west . . .
here, some of the world's best-dressed women are
glimpsed as they enjoy the infinite variety of
entertainment from the Top of the Mark to deepest
Chinatown. Traditionally a city of great elegance
. . . calling for such extreme formality as the
figure-molding gown of red Chinese brocade.
above, by Inga-Britt. It's about $185 at
I. Magnin stores exclusively.
.Cjmma Domb takes an early California theme, embroiders Bur-Mil taffeta with black lace. About $45 (not
including mantilla and mitts), at B. Altman, New York; D. H. Holmes, New Orleans; Meier & Frank, Portland.
29
Jf
•an-- .
u /"Mc
" . • " " ■■ • . .
*«»*&"
JLou are in carnival spirit . . . wearing this gaily striped black satin skirt with boned black taffeta bodice fastened
with multi-colored buttons: Lenora. About $25 at Clothes Closet, Palo Alto.
30
>Oo lovely, so romantic ... in Eleanor Green's dreamy gown of taffeta, bright splash of a sash at the hips; about
$30 at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; Haggarty's, Los Angeles; B. Altman, New York.
31
all around the town
i\| ative San Franciscan or not. you'll bow to
the perfect drama in clothes like these. Opposite
page. Lil Alice demure gabardine classic, crisply
stitched: about $17 at Kahn's Oakland;
The Broadway, Los Angeles. Jim Pack
bag-like-a-miner's.
MAMftAAMMMMMM
mm wm Wr* '*' "" '•5-"f""p' *
Vjitified jumper of heavy bengaline, above; a
turnabout to be buttoned in front or back, worn
with other blouses as well as this striped taffeta:
M. R. Fleischman. Jumper about $20,
blouse about $13 at Buffums', Long Beach.
I^mooth sophistication in Fanya's deftly draped
crepe . . left, the dress for luncheon and tea :
about $25 at City of Paris, San Francisco. Perfect
foil for furs like these stone martens.
Meadowbrook hat. Parker gloves.
33
your coat, your suit
with a wanderlust air
Vjoat-of-a-lifetime pictured fore and aft:
The luxurious town-or-country casual with three-way
versatility: snugly belted, falling free as a peignoir,
or wrapped smartly around you. Morris Goldman makes
it of finest wool, great tortoise shell buttons for
added glamour. In wonderful California colors,
about $75 at Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago;
Meier & Frank, Portland.
NATHALIE NICOLI
GAINES & CO.
JIMMY THOMPSON
Vjalifornia fashions have an affinity for travel . . . casual and comfortable
in look, smartly sophisticated in manner . . . like these coats and suits
that are boon companions on any trip, perfect standbys at home. We photo-
graphed them at San Francisco's famous harbor, to give you going-places
ideas. Jimmy Thompson's fitted double-breasted bodice buttons up smartly
to a high roll collar, the skirt is slim in front but rippling to a four-gore
flare in back ; finest worsted covert in rich fall hues. About S50 at Macy's,
San Francisco ; Bon Marche, Seattle. Hat by Meadowbrook. Jim Pack bag.
Nathalie Nicoli's soft tailored suit is "at home" wherever it travels, its
hand-picked petal pockets and trumpet skirt give it extra flare for the cock-
tail hour and later! Under $100 at The Emporium. San Francisco;
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles. Meadowbrook hat. Imported sharkskin pre-
cisely hand-stitched and styled by Gaines & Co., classic in line but with
extra cuff and collar interest for excitement; about $85 at Bedell's, Portland.
Ganson bag. Hat by Roze.
35
In California It's..
ANN LONDON is a San Francisco deb-
utante with three loves . . . books . . .
she collects first editions . . . airplanes
. . . flying is her pet hobby . . . and jeeps,
which she says is "flying low." A sopho-
more at Stanford University, Ann plans
to travel through Europe next summer.
LOUISE SALINGER started a
school of fashion design in self de-
fense. Proprietor of a custom shop
in Pittsburgh, she could hire no effi-
cient help, decided to train her own.
Now a San Franciscan, she says
"I chose California because it's the
only state where we are taking pride
in our own designs." Her daughter
is a ballet dancer; her son manufac-
tures a '"million balloons every day."
JOAN POLSDORFER used to write advertising copy and look longingly at the treasures
in the windows of Georg Jensen on New York's Fifth Avenue. Today, at her Ross home
in Northern California, she makes the beautiful handwrought jewelry that Georg Jensen
sells . . brooches, lapel pins, bracelets and earrings that have found their way to the
wardrobes of America's best-dressed women. Mrs. Polsdorfer, shown here with young son
Rickey, expresses her individuality in a style combining classic grace with the contem-
porary spirit. California flowers suggest themes for her most becoming works of art.
DOROTHY McCULLOUGH LEE next Janu
ary will be inaugurated as the first woman mayor
of Portland, Oregon. Born in Oakland, the
daughter of Rear Admiral Frank E. McCullough,
Dorothy obtained her law degree at the Univer-
sity of California, married and moved to Port-
land, and since 1929 has had a rapid ascendancy
in political life. She's a fiery 47 . . . admits it.
-T or that woman-about-town look . . a suit
you'll enjoy by Kay-Saks, about $80 at
-City of Paris, San Francisco. Meadowbrook hat.
37
Glass fence encloses yard and sun deck over the garage
From lanai to the garden with freedom of good living
Comfortable living room has the Chinese modern touch
Model House Awarded by
ONLY A FEW MILES from where Gaspar de Por-
tola and his brave band of trail blazers camped in
the hills nearly two centuries ago. the much-publicized
Portola House has risen in San Francisco to become
beauteous reality in the California Way of Life . .
an innovation in the scheme of living in the big city
by the bay.
Portola discovered San Francisco Bay, 'tis true,!
but Architect Angus McSweeney has discovered that
San Franciscans are not averse to casting aside their
walk-up apartments for a contemporary, one-story
house, with plenty of room to relax, and a view.
To focus attention on the Portola Festival and Pageant!
in San Francisco this month, a civic-minded commit-
tee gave birth to the idea of a modern Portola House,
sponsored its construction, and sold 120.000 tickets at
$1 each to San Franciscans who felt lucky enough
to win this unique two-bedroom home. Many more'
thousands viewed the structure and its trend-modern
furnishings with an eye for future planning of the
SAN FRANCISCO'S UNIQUE PORTOLA HOUSE
HAS BEEN VISITED BY THOUSANDS WHO WANT
GOOD LIVING AND CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
'ortola Festival Committee
houses that some day they hope to build.
Amid fanfare and flash bulbs the drawing was held,
and there was nary a lucky San Franciscan in all
those thousands of ticket stubs. Winner was Roy
Reid, a New Zealand merchant seaman who isn't due
back in the city for another year.
Architecturally, the Portola House is an example
of thoughtful site-planned design. On a single floor
level, the two bedrooms, living room, dining room,
master bath, kitchen, storage room and service room
are cleverly arranged for maximum utility, but the
floor plan's most interesting features are represented
in the patio, with its windbreak of structural glass,
and the secluded sun deck above the garage. All
principal rooms face the enclosed patio, providing
outside dining, and the garden, in effect, becomes a
hot house for the choicest plants. The living and
dining rooms have all-glass walls on the patio, and
ventilation is provided by louvres on top of the cur-
tain valances.
Wall of structural glass provides unique sheltered garden for flowers
Floor plan offers utmost in outdoor living with utilitarian arrangement
/SrWIflO TWO
WALLS OF GLASS BRING THE OUTDOORS IN
Radiant heating, of the type most generally ap-
proved, consists of copper coils embedded in the
concrete floor, providing an even temperature con-
trolled by thermostat, regardless of the climate out-
side. Occasional carpeting is used over the polished
black asphalt tile which covers the floor throughout.
And special attention has been given to the lighting
in house and patio to achieve a dramatic spot-lighted
effect.
The exterior, of stucco and stone veneer, is de-
signed to enable all rooms to open up to the glori-
ous view, and the white composition roof pitches
toward the center of the house in contrast to the
conventional peak. Consequently, no gutters along
the eaves are necessary and drainage is quick and
complete.
In Frank Newman's best "trend modern," the house
is furnished with color and comfort predominant.
Shell pink and grayed blue-green combine for the
living room walls, in the built-in cabinetry and are
carried throughout the deep-cushioned upholstered
pieces and draperies. A large gold-flecked antique
mirror hangs above an Arizona flagstone fireplace.
View windows from floor to ceiling gaze on a tiered
lanai, and fluorescent tubes indirectly shine on a citron
yellow ceiling which is duplicated in several other
rooms.
Ebony black woods are basic for the intimate
dining room, with colorful chair covers of prismatic
red, blue, yellow, green, red-orange and violet silk
shantung. Simple accessories, bowls and candelabra
are of highly polished brass. A warm relief from the
proverbial all-white is found in the mechanical
kitchen, where gray, red, citron yellow envelop the
usual appurtenances in addition to a dishwasher,
laundry and built-in breakfast table.
Down the hall from the living room is a bed-
sitting room in gray, bisque, citron yellow and rich
red, with twin couches, comfortable chairs and a
huge lacquered chest. The master bedroom is in soft
Front view of scale model displays unusual roof
Rear view emphasizes glamorous treatment of yard
greens with bisque and citron yellow accents, natural
blonde wood bed, night stands and vanity. The large
bath is pink, with modern plaid paper predominantly
pink. There is a plant container in the bathroom,
in the hallways, in the kitchen . . in fact, in every
room. And . . the house boasts a lamp made, of all
things, from a mandolin!
There's a lot of good living to be done in the Por-
tola House in the Lakeside District, corner of Broad-
moor and Stonecrest Drives. Stoneson Brothers built
it and Eckbo, Royston and Williams landscaped it
for an aggregate cost of $35,000. Robert Flynn of
the Frank Newman Company added $12,000 in fur-
nishings. But Architect Angus McSweeney, good
Scotsman that he is, will tell you that the house can
be built for $25,000 . . providing, of course, that you
are willing to forego the glass wind screen, the land-
scaping, and a few other contemporary special fea-
tures that make the Portola House one of San Fran-
cisco's finest new homes.
40
shining light of your holiday wardrobe
Think of informal parties, family get-togethers and holiday hustle . . . then think how
many times you'll need a versatile crepe dress like this one by Sally Forth: gleaming
metallic collar, cuffs, pockets. Sizes 10 to 18, under $20, at May Company, Los Angeles.
For additional stores see page 66.
41
FIVE
MORE
TONES
THAN
MOST
Dr. Arnold Schoenberg has great music in his fingers . . and in his heart
BY RUTH K. RIVKIN
COLE PORTER'S Night and Day is known to everybody:
the hep-cats, the rug-cutters, the jive-jumpers, the stickies,
the squares and the long-hairs. Not all of them like it.
Arnold Schoenberg's Transfigured Night is known to a lot
less people, and not all of them like it. But the boogie-
woogie level might be surprised to discover how natural
it would be to take Dr. Schoenberg's dissonances. They
might hear in them something they thought Bix or Satchmo
had invented ; or they might even think they heard a riff
dreamed up by Claude Thornhill ; or they might think the
whole thing was just "ishy." If they did, it wouldn't sur-
prise the greatest composer of modern music even one
little sixteenth note. He's been slugging it out in the
field of music all his seventy-four years.
Today he's still slugging it out, but less turbulently. in
his quiet home in a Los Angeles suburb. He chuckles as
he remembers the three times audiences in Vienna revolted
against his music to the point where the concert had to
be concluded; what harsh and jealous words both Euro-
pean and American critics used when he introduced new
and revolutionary composition; and how ill-mannered
Philadelphia's Academy of Music patrons were as they
flounced out when his Violin Concerto was presented, say-
ing it sounded like a New Year's Eve celebration. Today
he looks back at all the honors that have been rendered
him, he looks forward at the mountain of work he has
planned and he's happy, excited, bubbling with new and
stirring ideas.
This most dynamic of modern musical personalities is a'
gentle, charming man . . gracile, rather small of stature
physically, with a suave graciousness. He dresses in Cali-
fornia sport clothes, his hair is medium colored, although
it is thinner than it was, he gesticulates as he talks with
a slight accent, he is excitable, filled with zeal for life
and work, and such a perfectionist in both that what he
says might mistakenly make him sound intolerant, sharp
or egotistical.
One forgets he is the formidable inventor of the twelve-'
tone system when Dr. Schoenberg greets his guests at his
studio home on North Rockingham Road in Brentwood. A
high wall with iron gates guards the modest estate. Within,
two fiercely barking watch dogs turn out to be beige baby
cocker spaniels who immediately leap playfully on any
visitor. The slightly neglected lawn and garden contain toys
that appeal to small boys and puppies, and there are two
small boys there: Ronnie Schoenberg, eleven, and Larry,
seven. Nuria, the sixteen-year-old daughter, is away at
school in Ojai.
The house is rambling, two-story Spanish and has the
warm, lived-in-air of a family growing up. The spacious
living room, with its neat, white curtains and its simple
furnishings, is the center of the Schoenberg family ac-
tivity. Here his wife, Gertrude, to whom he's been mar-
ried twenty-four years, and the children gather like any
ether family and discuss their daily problems whether
the Doctor is composing . . or not. When he's there alone,
it's the work room of a working musician and he stands
in the center of his studio before a large easel holding
sheets of clef paper and writes notes as an artist might
paint or draw a picture. When the family is with him
it's a living room containing musical instruments, includ-
ing both piano and organ, and the walls are decorated not
with Schoenberg's own art work or illustrated reproduc-
tions of his compositions,
but with two busts of him-
self: one, a bronze, by
Louis Zack, the other, a
ceramic, by the Los An-
geles sculptor, Bernard
Sopher.
The Schoenbergs arrived
in New York from Ger-
many in 1934 . . a year
after the Nazis took over.
Nuria was two years old and her father was sixty. They
settled in the East and Arnold Schoenberg became terri-
bly ill . . so ill that the doctor shook his head with that
finality they adore. "He said to Gertrude not to get ex-
cited," Schoenberg grimly recalls, "that I had fourteen
days to live and that was plenty of time to arrange every-
thing." Then his face lights up. His eyes twinkle. "But
I fooled him . . I changed doctors . . and came to Cali-
fornia!"
He fooled a lot of people with that move. He fooled the
carpers who slyly hint he came here for reasons other than
health. "I did not come to work in the movies," he in-
42
a canorous estimate of arnold schoenberg who set a new pattern with a twelve-toned scale
. . his music and his genius have contributed to culture for more than seventy years
dignantly insists. "That is absolutely untrue." He puzzled
the eugenists a trifle by having a son when he was sixty-
three and another when he was sixty-seven. He shocks his
coffee-drinking, all night-kibitzing colleagues by arising at
six-thirty every morning so he can drive the two boys to
school. "The fresh air is good for me," he says energetically
as he walks across the studio floor like an athlete fifty
years younger. And well he might be, for in spite of the
dreadful warnings of that eastern physician, Schoenberg
didn't give up playing tennis until he was sixty-nine.
Ronnie plays now. Tennis, that is. He started playing
the violin at a very early age, his father says, "but gave it
up when he was five." Now he plays the cello in the school
orchestra. All the children are musical in that they appre-
ciate music, but, like anyone else, they do not want to
work any more."
Schoenberg is more enthusiastic about Ronnie's prowess
as a tennis player than he is about him as a cellist. "I
like to look at my boy play tennis," says Schoenberg, who
would rather watch a singles match between Kramer and
Riggs than a Beethoven contest between Mitropoulos and
Stokowski. "Ronnie displays promise of becoming a
champion even when playing with much more experienced
players."
Arnold Schoenberg was
born in Vienna, Austria,
September 13, 1874, and
lived there until he was
twenty-one. "I had one
brother and my father
and mother. Mother was
not musical but I remem-
ber my father's singing.
These were early memories
as he died when I was six-
teen. I began to study violin at the age of eight," Schoen-
berg reminisces. "And with my second lesson I brought
a little composition along with me. My teacher was pleased
and from then on I always wrote."
As was the custom in those days in Vienna. Schoenberg
played with amateur groups in the performance of chamber
music. For his ensemble he wrote first for violin alone,
then advanced into duets and trios. "Whatever I played,
I composed for. We even made one of the instruments
for our trio. We lacked a cello, but we used a violin strung
with zither strings and that substituted very nicely." Of
course, Schoenberg was the player of this exotic instru-
ment.
The youthful musician, after completing the six years'
course at Vienna's Realschule at the age of sixteen, finally
decided to be a composer, but a professional one. For
five years he slaved at his new life. Then, at twenty-one,
his friends thought him good enough to show his composi-
tions to Alexander von Zemlinsky, who knew Brahms and
was considered an authority. They became good friends and
THE AUTHOR: Ruth K. Rivkin wrote the interesting story of At-
water Kent for the May issue oj The Californian . . followed with
this enlightening sketch of one of the world's great composers . .
and promises to spotlight additional California personalities in new
issues to come. Mrs. Rivkin has been Hollywood editor for United
Nations World magazine and a contributor to many other national
publications. She was born in Minneapolis, was graduated from the
University of Minnesota and is married to Allen Rivkin, the writer.
Ruth lives in beautiful Beverly Hills, collects cook books, is an
expert of floriculture, plays the piano spasmodically, prefers a dry
Gibson and has two dachshunds . . one, "Augusta Weyerhaeuser"
were associated in Polyhymnia, an orchestral society.
Schoenberg played the cello. Zemlinsky conducted. From
Zemlinsky, Schoenberg, who was self-taught in musical
theory as well as practice, received his only formal in-
struction: counterpoint.
It was almost inevitable that Schoenberg became a
teacher himself. "I had the ability to do what the books
asked, so I could teach, although, I myself, was self-
taught."
But before he got the chance to do any formal teach-
ing he went to Berlin where he got a position as Kapell-
meister of Ernst von Wolzogen's Vberbreth, an artistic cafe
in Berlin. There he had the leisure to start some serious
composing. Richard Strauss heard the yet uncompleted
Gurre-Lieder, liked it and
got Schoenberg a teaching
post and scholarship at the
famed Stern Conservatory.
Today, Schoenberg feels
that "men are very bad
animals. They think only
of their own interests. A
very few have wanted to
help the young musician.
But Richard Strauss and
Gustav Mahler were always ready to help other people." It
was Mahler who encouraged Schoenberg, without agree-
ing with him when, in 1903, he heard his works performed
by the Rose Quartet in the Viennese Ansorge-Verein.
Schoenberg says today that Berlin was "the greatest
music center at that time. It had three separate opera houses
where such famous men as Bruno Walter and Otto Klem-
perer were among those conducting."
His success as a teacher continued through the years. Not
only did he instruct in Amsterdam and Vienna, but since
he has lived in the Southwest, he has been a distinguished
member of the faculty of the University of California at
Los Angeles. About four years ago he retired from that
chair and since has confined himself to private teaching.
He conducts his classes once a week . . on Sundays.
His influence on his pupils has been great although he
himself feels "Teaching takes your mind off composing.
The pupils' music is more in your thoughts than your own.
So I can only write during vacation." Among his Ameri-
can pupils are Leonard Stein, who is also a teacher and
of whom Schoenberg says. "He is very talented and original
in his teaching"; Gerald Strang, who teaches and com-
poses; Dr. Dika Newlin of Columbia University, and Von
Langlie, whom Schoenberg classifies as a musical linguist.
Among his European pupils still alive, Karl Rankl is
head of Covent Garden in London, and in Germany, where
all such music was sternly banned by Hitler as being
modern and decadent, Winfried Zillig, one of his German
students, is now first conductor of radio at Frankfurt-Au-
Main.
"Some of my pupils turn out to be twelve-tonalists.
Others not," states Schoenberg. Much to the bewilderment
of those critics who believe him to be a master of discord
and confusion in music, he says, "I do not approve of
using any instruments except those that have fixed pitch. I
have no use for trick composition."
Occasionally motion picture composers have come to
him for instruction. "They all had the wrong ambition,"
Schoenberg feels. "They all wanted to write fugues. It
is no longer necessary to write (Continued on page 65)
43
SAN FRANCISCCE
The doughty captain of dragoons be^an a txek in 17( it c
FOR A MAN who missed his objective twice, and stumbled on Si if
Francisco Bay quite by accident, Don Gaspar de Portola has receivi! 0
an inordinate amount of attention from historians, and a great de Jit
of publicity this summer from the city by the Golden Gate.
Portola's niche in history was reserved for him because he "dij i,l
covered" San Francisco Bay. It is debatable whether he ever saw | «i»
. . his scouts found it while he was encamped in the Palo Alto hilt sd
and some historians give Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega the not «]«
The good Don was sent from Baja California to expel the Jesuii ri
from California and help the Franciscans, under Fra Junipero Sern lis
establish missions. Portola was also given instructions to establi: i»
a fort at Monterey to protect that sector of the Spanish Empire froi t
encroachment by other foreign powers. On Portola's first, or abci iii
tive, trip north, he camped at the mouth of the Salinas River ar in
couldn't find Monterey Bay, although the party could hear the sui ffl
Returning from San Francisco Bay, the party again camped (I hi
Monterey Bay, this time at what is now Pacific Grove, and aga! w
didn't recognize the Bay . . they called it an ensenada (or "op^ ilffl
roadstead"), which perhaps it is. After arriving back in San Diegi be
where he rendezvoused with other parties of the expedition, Porto k
was persuaded to make another try for Monterey. This time he foui 0
it . . the third time was the charm.
Not since 1909 has Portola been honored in the city by the Goldi ta
Gate which he "discovered" in 1769. But this year the businessm* illi
are going all out with a celebration that they hope will make the t
cash registers jingle with the rhythm of Spanish castanets. If Portolai ml
crew should return for the celebration (for that matter, they're < t
the way now, with the help of the Festival Committee) they wouldr fc
be plagued with scurvy as they were 179 years ago. The fifth anr
versity of the free Farmer's Market was celebrated this summer 1
the crowning, with a ripe tomato, of the driver of the 45th thousan
vehicle to enter the grounds. For the publicity received, manag
ment of the Market would almost certainly keep Portola's expeditic
supplied with fresh vegetables, including tomatoes, as expensive i
they might be.
The doughty adventurer has been honored, and rightfully s
by a number of communities in the state. San Francisco has a junii
high school and a traffic artery atop Twin Peaks carrying the goc
Don's Catalan name. Portola is also the name of a community of T
San Francisco is a city of cosmopolitans . . of beautiful women . . and world tra>
Celebrates ride of portola with civic festival
at changed the course of history in California
BY RICHARD LLOYD WILLIAMS
uple of thousand people in Plumas County, up in the beautiful
ather River country, but no one has ever accused Gaspar of having
indered off course that far.
If Portola should grope his way into Northern California once
ain, he would probably recognize only one characteristic as having
mained unchanged . . the never-changing, enveloping fog which
used him no end of trouble 169 years ago and which still gives
ivelers the willies. Commerce from the seven seas now makes San
ancisco one of the great ports of the world. The municipal air-
rt is being expanded into the largest on the Pacific Coast to ac-
mmodate the increasing number of planes plying to and from a
re of countries. This major construction project required the
iving of a mountain, literally, to fill in part of the Bay.
Surveys are being made for a second Bay bridge between San
ancisco and the East Bay. This will probably start from the San
ancisco side at about where Ortega came down to the estero, and
lieve some of the murderous traffic on the present Bay bridge. The
)lden Gate bridge, connecting with Marin County, is still con-
lered adequate.
Bay Area communities surrounding San Francisco, and the perimeter
unties, are participating in the post-war prosperity that has been
the increase since V-J Day. Farmers and ranchers of the fertile
lleys in Northern California have never received such good prices
r their products. Commercial fishing is in a decline, but the charter
iats are carrying more pleasure fishermen than ever before. The
anufacturing industry is expanding its facilities with many new
ants specializing in a score of things once made only in the East.
The construction business is booming . . both in commercial and
sidential buildings. This is led in San Francisco by a 22-story
Bee building now being erected by Standard Oil, and a sports arena
hich will be the home of the ever-popular Ice Follies. The boom
building throughout the United States has caused the lumbering
dustry to work overtime. Most of the long-time strikes in the big
mber mills in the north have been settled and the mills are now
orking on a 24-hour day basis. Many "one-man" sawmills are now
aerating throughout the mountains in the northern part of the state,
nd any number of these were started and are operated by ex-service-
en.
The great Bay has had its shoreline altered (Continued on page 64)
Everyone goes to Fishermen's Wharf . . for seafood and a look at the boats
Turn table and Powell Street cable car inspired winning Rose Parade float
A mecca for tourists is the famous old Cliff House overlooking Seal Rocks
•NTS • »53BK "
US*
so ft lights
for nights
You'll be pretty as a picture . . in the
shortie gown, left, by Lady Helen of
California. Yoke so quaint, rich with lace
. . . cut like a nightshirt; sizes
32 to 38, about $11. Below, taffeta
slip for formals, backless and elasticized
at waist . . . sizes 32 to 44, about $6,
by Pandora. Opposite, coachman's
coat in brocaded satin, taffeta lined;
sizes 10 to 20, about $40, by Stellar.
BERYL AND RENE
w*
Today's underfashions are
scientifically designed
not only for beauty but
for health and comfort as
well. Above, long
line bra of jacquard by
Cordelia of Hollywood.
Center, lace garter belt
with satin bands in
center front: Sko-Form.
Below, a maternity
bra with three-way
adjustment; for nursing
the lace panel unfastens.
Also in broadcloth and
all satin; Anne Alt.
W1 '
/ £
STAN RISLEY
m
i
0
It was Summer, 1926, when Dr. Isaac Hampshur
Jones gathered on his private court in Los An-
geles a small group of citizens whose greatest
bond of friendship was their common love of
tennis. Their ideal was "to create interest and
enthusiasm in amateur tennis, to bring to Southern Cali-
fornia recognition as a tennis center, and to perpetuate an
annual tournament of national and international prom-
inence." They formed the Tennis Patrons Association of
Southern California, helped to build the sprawling Los
Angeles Tennis Club, and began giving the annual Pacific
Southwest Sectional Championships which today ranks
with Wimbledon and Forest Hills. And, according to the
rest of the world, international champions have been pro-
duced at an alarming rate.
The Sutton sisters, Bunny Ryan, Harvey Snodgrass,
Gerald C. Young, Alan Herrington, Alice Marble, Gene
Mako, Welby Van Horn, Bobby Riggs, Frankie Parker,
Pauline Betz, Ted Schroeder, Bob Falkenburg, and that
giant killer of them all, Jack Kramer . . those are names
to remember.
Pacific Southwest opened its twenty-second season this
year on September 25 with fanfare, foreign consuls, movie
stars and a heavy sprinkling of society. For the elite of the
Miss A. Louise Brough and Craufurd Kent, tennis patron, on
court. Louise won three titles this season at Wimbledon.
SOCIETY AND MOVIE
Southern California's famous "Pacific
Center court is the battleground for champions . . last year's men's doubles went 82 games,
Avid tennis enthusiasts are Mrs. Graham Sterling, Jr., and Mrs.
Hyde Braly . . at the moment in the club refreshment bar.
The aura of Hollywood and championship tennis each year have
combined to produce a spectacular week in California.
Southland and the motion picture industry have passionate-
ly taken tournament tennis to their hearts. Some come to
see and to be seen, but all enjoy the thrilling games that
each year engage the world's champions. To get a ticket
it's almost "who do you know?" The center court boxes
are regularly over subscribed, leaving the disappointed
choice seats, however, in the shady west stand. John Public
usually is content to cheer from the sunny east and both
ends of the court.
On a big day you'll see Clark Gable, Van Johnson,
Walter Pidgeon, the Ozzie Nelsons, Robert Stack, George
Murphy, Spencer Tracy, Basil Rathbone and a score of
other stars mixing with the social Leonard K. Firestones,
Justin Darts, Alphonso E. Bells, Hyde Bralys, Milton
Teagues and the justly famous Helen Wills Moody Roark.
Two years ago "Big Jake" Kramer and Frederick
Schroeder, Jr., brought the Davis Cup back to America
and were promptly rated the greatest tennis players in
the world. At Wimbledon last summer spectators were
startled to find that most of the winners were not
only from the United States, but from California. The
Pacific Southwest this year had lost a champion or two
to the pro ranks . . Kramer and Pauline Betz are out-
standing examples . . but there remained the backbone
of America's amateur tennis might, and a fine crop of Cali-
fornia youngsters to pick up the togas that have been so
proudly worn . . Parker, Schroeder, Falkenburg, Edward
Maylan, Earl Cochell, Pancho Gonzales, Seymour Green-
berg, Hugh Stewart, Tom Brown, John Fleitz, Harry Likas,
Louise Brough, Gertrude Moran, Beverly Baker, Helen
Pastall, Nancy Chaffee, Margaret Dupont, Patricia Todd,
Dorothy Bundy Cheney and Gracyn Kelleher Wheeler.
It is only through the continued support of the Tennis
Patrons Association that many of the players have achieved
their fame. Tournament proceeds become financial aid in
the junior development program . . for lessons and equip-
ment . . for the perfection of the game. But it is the major
domo of western tennis, Perry T. Jones, who is largely
responsible for the development of the individual player.
Jones has spent eighteeen years as tournament manager for
the Tennis Patrons Association and is secretary for the
parent Southern California association. For eighteen years
he has guided, encouraged and scolded a small army of
young players who have come on to capture world-wide
recognition. Jones, himself, is a clam for the press. Rather,
he would prefer that Southern California's tennis cham-
pions . . through their consistent ability and good sports-
manship . . speak for themselves.
STARS GO FOR TOURNAMENT TENNIS
Southwest" lures big names and smart fashions to center court
Ted Schroeder helped win Davis Cup Society's Mmes. Maynard Toll, James Copley Jack Kramer brought son David to see
s-L— < « -ir.r-ri-ffi
Ozzie Nelson and his Harriet autograph racket for a young player
Robert Stack and Mrs. Cortlandt Hill regularly attend the games
DASH TAYLOR
for daytime pleasure
You've asked for them . . the
California jumper for fall! The
comfortable two-piecer in plain and gay
color to take you shopping, through the
campus and to class, a top-notch spectator
at day-time sporting events. They're
just right when the cool fall breezes
blow! At left is Addie Masters' jersey
jumper with striped jersey blouse, about
at I. Magnin stores. At right is
Casual Time's clan plaid jumper, about
■
plain blouse about $11 at
Buffums', Long Beach.
FRANK STIFFLER
CHRISTINE LARSON, 20th Century-Fox starlet of "Rose of Cimarron," in black faille jumper, left, good with
blouse . . . Junior Miss of California; for date or days, sizes 9 to 15, about $13 at Buffums'. Long Beach;
Carson's, Chicago. Pussy-in-well is "Mr. Winterbottom."
LITTLE MONEY dress, right, in Cohama suede cord will see you through the day: Mira-Loma Fashions.
Sizes 9 to 15, about $13 at Bullock's, Los Angeles; The Harris Co.. San Bernardino; R. E. Cox, Ft. Worth.
53
CALI FOR N
COOKS
by Helen Evans Brown
U Apparently miffed because he muffed his first mission,
that of locating Monterey, Don Gaspar de Portola failed
to see the charms of California or its promise of great
riches. Fact is, he didn't like the place. But Californians,
turning a sun-tanned cheek, have continued to respect the
memory of the first Governor of the Califomias . . have
even named a famous dish in his honor.
Chicken Portola "is a dish as surprising as it is en-
trancing. Tender young chicken cooked tightly sealed in a
cocoanut shell! A charming and rather rare little book,
"Bohemian San Francisco," written by Clarence E. Ed-
words and published by Paul Elder & Co., in 1914, was
my introduction to this exotic and altogether exciting
dish. Mr. Edwords names Coppa, a famous cook and res-
taurateur of pre-fire days, as the creator of the dish, and
gives his somewhat vague but wonderful recipe for it.
Since then, in my culinary snoopings, I have found many
other recipes for it. One of them renamed the dish and
gave Hawaii credit, though the recipe was Coppa's exactly!
Another called it Chicken Portola but said it came from
the West Indies . . still Coppa's recipe though, in some-
what different format. It also turns up as Chicken Tortola.
but that recipe (by Charles H. Baker, Jr., in "The Gentle-
men's Companion")
has several touches of
originality as well as
evidence that the au-
thor has made the
dish himself and
knows what he's talk-
ing about. But that's
not surprising, he al-
ways does.
I give you Coppa's
recipe, or at least what
emerged from my
kitchen after a bit of
experimenting.
CHICKEN PORTOLA
Allow one cocoanut for each person to be served. Cut a
slice off the top, about one-sixth of the way down. This
may be done with a hand saw if you don't mind a few
nicked fingers, but the best way is to seek out a friend
who has a power saw . . a couple of seconds and the job
is done. Now, using a strong spoon (I found a steel
kitchen spoon the perfect tool), scoop out a goodly portion
of the cocoanut. But evenly. The idea is to leave the
cocoanut shell and the lid with a lining of about a quarter
of an inch of meat. For each four cocoanuts use one tender
frying chicken, cut in serving pieces. Brown the chicken
lightly in a quarter of a cup of olive oil, then set aside.
To the oil remaining in the pan add four slices of bacon,
cut in dice, a large onion, chopped, a large green pepper,
also chopped, and a good-sized clove of garlic that has
been macerated with a teaspoon of salt (how I hope you
have a mortar and pestle or at lease a wooden potato
masher and a wooden bowl ! ) . Let this cook quietly until
the vegetables are wilted, then add three cups of peeled
chopped tomatoes (Oh, all right, use canned tomatoes,
drained!) and a few grindings of pepper. Simmer some
more . . say thirty minutes . . then add two ears of green
corn, the kernels scraped from the cob, and a quarter
of a cup of the cocoanut (You'll have lots of cocoanut
left, so plan a cake or a curry or some such with the left-
over).
Now divide the chicken into the cocoanut shells in your
most judicious manner . . a piece of dark meat (leg or sec-
ond joint) and a piece of white meat (wing or breast)
to each nut. Fill with the sauced vegetables, smear the
rim of the cocoanut with a paste of flour and water, and
replace the cap. Set the cocoanuts in a pan containing
an inch or so of water and bake at 350° for iy2 hours,
basting occasionally. Here, let me confess that Coppa
strains the vegetables from his sauce . . all save the corn
54
and cocoanut. I could-
n't bear to strain out
all that goodness, but
if you think Coppa
knew best, go ahead.
Each guest rates a
whole cocoanut to
himself, and it's up to
him to pry off the lid
after it's set before
him. The wonderful
aroma that greets him
when he succeeds will
be his reward. There's
another thing I hate
to do to Coppa, but
this dish . . or a reasonable facsimile . . may be made
without fresh cocoanut. Use an earthenware casserole,
sealing the lid on with a flour paste just as you would the
top of the cocoanut. The only difference is you'll have to
add a cup of grated cocoanut to the mixture. (I suggest
you first rinse the "store" cocoanut in boiling water to get
rid of some of that sweetness.) Though this dish won't
lack in flavor it certainly will in drama!
But served in a shell or in a casserole, this dish deserves
the honor of an accompanying wine. A California Vin
Rose would be nice, but if you prefer a white wine or a
red wine, serve it. The right wine is the wine that tastes
right to you!
Whereas Portola's only apparent contribution to Cali-
fornian cuisine was to have a dish named after him, Father
Junipero Serra, Portola's sometime companion and co-
founder of the Presidio in Monterey, was responsible for
first planting many of the fruits that have since made
California famous. Serra had to have his wine . . for
sacramental purposes . . so he planted vines and made it
himself, thus becoming California's first vintner. Today,
California's wine industry is something to brag about, and
we do. With a variety of climates, soils and growing con-
ditions, we can raise many different types of wine grapes,
make many varieties of wine. Every year is a vintage year
in California, and many of California's vineyards are gain-
ing world-wide reputations as producers of fine wines.
October brings "Wine Week" to the nation and a special
treat to readers of California Cooks. The Wine Institute
has created three
recipes which will de-
light you. Here they
are, tested by their
kitchens. (The paren-
thetical cracks are
mine, as if you didn't
know! )
CHICKEN SAUTE
WITH ARTICHOKES
Have a tender chicken
of 31/2 to 4 pounds
cut in pieces for serv-
ing, then dust with salt
and (fresh ground, please) pepper. Put 2 tablespoons of
butter and 2 tablespoons of oil (olive if the budget can
take it) into a heavy skillet with a tight-fitting lid; add
chicken and saute until golden brown, turning the pieces
frequently. Meantime, remove the stems and tough outer
leaves from 4 medium-sized artichokes, and cut off about 1
inch of the tops; cut lengthwise in quarters and remove the
fuzzy chokes. When chicken is nicely browned, add arti-
chokes, one 4-ounce can of mushrooms with the liquor (or
fresh mushrooms, maybe?), and 1 cup of California Reisling
or any white table wine. Cover tightly and simmer gently
for 45 minutes to one hour, or until chicken is tender.
Remove chicken and artichokes to a serving platter and
keep warm. Beat 2 egg yolks with a cup of cream, add to
the liquid in the skillet, stir over low heat until the sauce
thickens. Remove from heat; add 1 tablespoon chopped
parsley, and salt and pepper (you-know-what-kind-or-am-I-
hipped-on-the-subject?) . Pour over chicken and artichokes.
Serves 3 or 4 (Says the Wine Institute optimistically. It's
so good I wouldn't bank on that). Note: If fresh artichokes
are not obtainable, 8 canned artichoke hearts (or artichoke
bottoms) may be substituted. Add them to the chicken 15
to 20 minutes before it is done. Serve with a California
Reisling or a Sonoma Sylvaner.
SWEETBREADS IN CRESS RICE RING
Wash a cup and a half of rice and cook until tender in
3 quarts of boiling water with ll/o tablespoons of salt.
Rinse with hot water,
add a bunch of water
cress, coarsely chop-
ped, and toss lightly.
(I'd toss in a couple
of tablespoons of melt-
ed butter, too). Pack
hot rice into an oiled
1-quart ring mold,
turn out on a platter,
and fill with creamed
sweetbreads. To pre-
pare the sweetbreads,
place 2 pairs of them
in two cups of boiling
water to which two
tablespoons of vinegar have been added. Simmer for 20
minutes. Then plunge into cold water for about 5 minutes.
Remove tubes and membrane and cut into %-inch squares.
To make the sauce, blend a quarter of a cup (l/§ pound)
of melted butter with a quarter of a cup of flour, add 2
cups of hot milk (I hope it's rich!) about a third at a time,
stirring constantly until smooth and thickened. Blend to-
gether 2 well-beaten egg yolks (well, that will add rich-
ness), 11/2 teaspoons of salt, % teaspoon of pepper (you
guess, this time), 2 teaspoons of grated onion, 1 table-
spoon of lemon juice, and 14 cup of California sherry.
Add this to the white sauce, stirring constantly. Add the
cooked sweetbreads. Heat thoroughly and serve in the rice
ring. (Love those sweetbreads, but love those brains, too,
prepared in exactly the same way.) Here, a very delicate
white wine, perhaps a Semillon, would be delightful with
either the sweetbreads or the brains.
VEAL EN BROCHETTE
To serve 4 or 5 generously, buy ll/o pounds of lean veal
stew meat. Salt and pepper the cubes of meat, string them
on metal or wooden skewers, and roll them in flour. Heat
a small amount of oil or bacon drippings with a peeled
clove of garlic in a large skillet. Brown the floured meat
on all sides in the oil. Remove and discard the garlic.
To the skillet add 14 cup chopped onion, l/o cup chopped
celery, % cup California Sauterne (or Semillon), and %
cup canned consomme. Cover snugly and simmer slowly
about an hour, until meat is very tender and most of the
liquid has cooked away. Uncover and continue cooking,
turning occasionally, about 15 minutes, or until the veal
is coated with a rich brown glaze. Remove meat and keep
hot. To skillet add 1 cup hot water and 14 cup Sauterne,
then stir in 2 tablespoons of flour mixed smooth with 14
cup warm water, stirring, until slightly thickened. Season
well. Serve with rice . . that flaky white rice you cook so
well . . and accompany with green beans delicately herbed
with savory, a chilled California Sauterne, crusty hot
French bread, a green salad, and a cheese that's proud
of its age. There's a meal worthy of many repeats!
Thrifty gals know that an inexpensive bottle of Cali-
fornia table wine served with a run-of-the-pot meal makes
the event a gala one. Smart gals know that wine in the
kitchen is a sure sign of a genius at work.
55
ALL HIS IDEAS ARE GRANDIOSE
Meet Ray Smith . . He
loves to spend
other people's money
Ray Smith is an entrepreneur of big city projects . . public speaker with portfolio
X he telephone rang in the outer office of Ray W.
Smith, executive vice-president of Greater Los Angeles
Plans, Inc. Ray Smith is chief prodder, spear-carrier
and organizer in the privately financed movement to
build the greatest auditorium and the greatest opera
house in the world. From 35 to 50 million dollars
worth.
"New York Times calling Mr. Smith!"
The metropolitan thin man who coined the expressions
"Downtown Los Angeles Has Everything," and "Size Is
Not Enough," the latter frequently borrowed by Mayor
Fletcher Bowron, picked up the phone and spoke briefly:
"No, any decision of the Metropolitan Opera Company
to cancel its 1948-49 season does not affect Los Angeles.
No, any decision of the Met is incidental to our plans
to go ahead with our own opera house. No, we have
received no proposals from the Met to transfer the com-
pany permanently to Los Angeles."
And yet . . the bespectacled man with the big bow tie
will tell you that he has "the weakest 'no' in America."
Ray Smith has figured in the development of the pro-
jected Pershing Square underground garage, the Golden
Gate International Exposition, new Southern California
freeways, the huge Los Angeles Airport and countless
other civic adventures. Right now he's busy talking
with big businessmen, architects, property owners . .
and raising money . . baskets full.
Construction of the mammoth auditorium and the
beautiful opera house probably won't begin for two
years. But if a spade of earth is turned by that time
Ray Smith will be "happy as hell."
The 52-year-old entrepreneur was executive v.p. of
the Downtown Businessmen's Association of Los An-
geles when a prominent merchant called him into his
office one afternoon in 1945. "Here, Ray, is a check
for $5000. Spend it developing some plans for a big
auditorium."
Smith did. He consulted Architect Dwight Gibbs,
formulated some scale models, and arbitrarily selected
for future discussion the six-block site in downtown
Los Angeles that is bounded by Fremont and Flower
Streets, from Third to Fifth. This was to provide space
for both the auditorium and opera house of the future.
P. G. Winnett, president of Bullock's Department Store;
Harvey S. Mudd, international mining tycoon; Albert
B. Ruddock, capitalist, and Charles H. Strub, head of
the Los Angeles Turf Club . . all philanthropists as well
as good businessmen . . furthered the project. They
scheduled a luncheon at the exclusive California Club
for thirty of the city's top financial leaders, encouraged
Ray Smith to spring his plan and display his models
. . and gather up more money for the vast preliminary
work. Fifteen men pledged $1000 each, but one man
later thought better of his magnanimous ways, sliced
his contribution in half. A Los Angeles career woman
volunteered to make up the difference.
The group then incorporated as Greater Los Angeles
Plans, a non-profit organization, to stimulate their dream.
During the war only study of the project was feasible.
But the site and architectural committee, headed by At-
torney John Macfarland, was directed to determine the
site. After several months study and prodigious help
from "outside experts," the committee returned with the
recommendation that the original site be accepted for
the auditorium. With the opera house it was different.
The fashionable Wilshire area seemed to offer the most
advantages, and the opera house was planned to be
erected facing Lafayette Park.
Next major problem was to decide on the architects.
GLAPI wanted the best, gave Macfarland's committee
one year to choose. And their recommendations were ac-
cepted with enthusiasm: Wal- (Continued on page 62)
Internationally known architects for world's largest auditorium and the
finest opera house are shown with Los Angeles executives in New York:
Wallace K. Harrison, left, chairman of board of design; William W.
Wurster, Max Abramovitz, Eero Saarinen, Henry Dreyfuss, noted indus-
trial designer; Gordon B. Kaufmann, Henry Duque, president of Greater
Los Angeles Opera Associates, Inc.; standing, left, Charles O. Matcham,
William Pereira, Ray W. Smith, executive v.p. Greater Los Angeles Plans,
Inc., and Reginald Johnson. Construction may start within two years.
56
Catalina sweater ensembles are making
the country cashmere conscious, and
the Bruce Bennetts have a typical Cali-
fornia wardrobe. For her leisure out-
door moments, Mrs. Bennett chooses a
full-fashioned short-sleeved slip-on to
wear under her long-sleeved cardigan.
Bruce wears a long-sleeved slip-on in
forest green, with the British rib neck-
line. The younger Bennetts sport west-
ern sweaters with contrasting yoke,
body and whipstitching on the collar.
|n Hollywood there's magic to conjure up exotic fashions, kleig lights, foreign motor cars, lavish
premieres, sensational stories of night life. And there is the quieter side . . the people who con-
stitute the backbone of the movie industry, the wholesome manifestation of our California Way of
Life. Mr. and Mrs. Bruce Bennett and their two youngsters are just such a family. You remember
Bruce from his performance with Joan Crawford in "Mildred Pierce." Soon you'll be seeing him
co-starred with Virginia Mayo in Warner Bros.' "Smart Girls Don't Talk."
Bruce started his picture career in 1931, acting in a Pete Smith short, married Jeannette, the
debutante daughter of the Ralph Braddocks of Los Angeles, in 1933, and set about to carve a
niche for himself in the motion picture world. It hasn't all been easy. There were times when
"calls" were infrequent. That's when Bruce learned to bake a delicious chocolate cake and pick
up a woodworking hobby that has really paid off. A good port of the beautiful furniture in the
Bennetts' Los Feliz Hills home is his handiwork.
With their two children, Christina, age 4, and little Christopher, just past 16 months, the Bennetts
are grouped here on the lawn, enjoying the family life that is the real Hollywood . . away from
press agentry and the perpendicular pronoun.
BORIS LOVET-LORSKI:
LOOKING DOWN from the rarefied atmosphere of high places
is a habit with sculptor Boris Lovet-Lorski. He occupies a
pinnacle of fame by virtue of thirty years of solid accomplish-
ment in this most exacting of all arts. And he lives on the
highest mountain-top overlooking Beverly Hills.
It's a fitting setting for this many-faceted genius, so much I
a product of our times, so much more an observer. He does I
not seek escape from humanity, rather the larger view that lends if
meaning and perspective. Here is a thoroughly civilized man, m
easily gracious, friendly and sincere. If he holds himself aloof,
this man who counts both kings and commoners as customers
and friends, it is not snobbishness, but characteristic of personal
integrity. Those who inhabit the lonesome heights of genius
must perforce be exiled from their fellow man.
California is his chosen home, yet he admits to spiritual lone-
liness here. There are not many who can speak of art with him
. . so few who understand.
"Oh, I have friends," he says, "good friends. But so often
I meet someone who asks hopefully if I am not a director or a
producer at the studios. I say no. Then . . perhaps I am a
writer, or a musician, or a composer of music for the films? I
say I am not connected with the studios, and their faces fall
down to here! Then they ask: 'Well, what do you do?' I tell
them I am a sculptor. They do not understand. They actually
do not know what a sculptor does! Do you know, I often find
it is easier to say that I am a manufacturer of champagne corks, or
perhaps that I have invented a new kind of hairpin which I
am producing in great quantities," he laughs jovially. "Then
they are really impressed. Ah, Hollywood! It's wonderful."
Thus, whimsically, he deplores the lack of a real cultural
center here. "In Europe, a city this size would be a capital,
with three, four, five operas, with many theatres, with its own
ballet, with many museums."
"But I like California, I love its people and its beauty!"
Such criticism can be only well taken when it comes from one i
like this, a citizen of the world who has adopted the United |
States as his native land, who has always exhibited his works as an J
American artist, who gives America full credit for everything j
he has accomplished. His greatest work, the one he personally 'I
takes most pride in, is a statue of Abraham Lincoln as a young I
loyet - Lorski, a self - portrait
Adam and Eve, sandstone, will
be included in Boston exhibit
SCULPTOR
awyer, pleading his first case in Decatur County Court House,
llinois. This statue, of heroic size and inspiration, now stands
in front of the courthouse. Critics agree that Lovet-Lorski's
Lincoln is the most Lincoln Lincoln of all. Perhaps this is be-
cause the artist forgot himself completely in his effort to pre-
sent Lincoln as he really was then . . a country lawyer. "In all
works of art," he says, "the artist strives to put something of
himself into the statue, painting, music or poem. In this case,
I did not want to do so. Lincoln, to me, since my schoolboy
days in Russia, has been the symbol of the best that is America,
or the world."
Already there is a "Lorski school" of sculptors who have imi-
Itated his humans with wings, his dancing creatures, his great-
chested horses, his flattened silhouetted animals, his classic
|torsos. So versatile, he also has a flair for the tragi-comic
as evidenced by the immortalization in pewter of "Tootsy," a
plump poodle, and The Rooster, a copper Casanova of a cockerel.
Lovet-Lorski was born in Lithuania (Russia) on Christmas
[Day (Gregorian Calendar) 1895, the son of a rich White Rus-
? j( Isiaii family. He studied at the St. Petersburg Imperial Academy
aJof Art, specializing in painting, sculpture and architecture. He
le|| came to the United States in 1920, began his career in sculpture
M as a teacher, keeping one jump ahead of his students. Soon he
ill found success and gave up teaching. During this period he be-
aijjcame an American citizen. Europe beckoned, and he went
i i jabroad for further work and study.
E[ In 1929 he went to Italy, where he was commissioned to do
|": the heads of the royal family. Other royal commissions fol-
fjljjlowed. He has modeled heads and busts of prime ministers,
j| presidents, socialites, great musicians and captains of industry,
,- !of movie moguls and sparkling stars of stage and screen.
But it is in the field of absolute art that he has won his
(enduring fame. John Erskine has written pages wherein he tells
„[ how Lovet-Lorski expresses the mood of our times, even as he
gives voice to the abstract, "a highly emotional tendency, as
though out of a confused world his spirit reached for whatever
is universal and serene. ... In all his work there is a provocative
mingling of clear-sighted realism with romanticism, of thought
with feeling. Few sculptors express so sensitive and varied love
| of life."
Whether he works in marble, bronze, lava, onyx, ivory, brass,
'pewter, slate, copper, silver or wood, he is able to express him-
[self clearly within the limitations of the material. His statues,
torsos, heads, animals are beautiful in form and finish. Although
he never works from models, except when doing portraits, his
jhuman figures are wonderfully life-like, idealized rather than
idistorted. He explains this beauty of form as both positive and
jnegative. The figure itself must have a rhythm and movement
that is lovely, and, framed against a background, it must divide
Ithat space beautifully, too. There is something wonderfully
(classic in the stark simplicity of design, the universality of
'emotion we see here.
Lovet-Lorski believes art is truth. He has always tried to
j express what he sees and feels in the present, neither borrowing
| from the past, nor projecting the future. The only truth possible
| to a human being is that of his own period. He says that he
I has been profoundly influenced by the Tibetan philosophy of
life . . of time and eternity.
"The Unknown God." a head, is one great result of his
! search for the truth. The year 1925, the place, Paris. "I was
i searching for the great truths about life," he says, "and granting
that we are all descended from the one known God. the God
Unknown must of necessity be found within ourselves." Perhaps
this explains why the face is somewhat like the sculptor's own,
although he says it was not intentional. This piece is now in
the Luxembourg Museum, and replicas {Continued on next page)
by Alice Stiffler
Narcissia, Petite Palais, Paris,
replica at famed San Simeon
Rooster, red copper Casanova
The Horses, bronze silhouettes
Tootsy,
pewter
poodle
59
Story of Boris Lovet-Lorski: Sculptor of Beauty and Fascination
(Continued from page 59) are in several
cities throughout the world.
No dreamy, long-haired prattler of the
"arty," Lovet-Lorski is a vigorous artisan, a
competent craftsman who has given his life
to hard work. Success and fame like this do
not come easily. His hands have held the
chisel and cut through stone to find expres-
sion of his ideas. For relaxation he used to
ride horses, and practice the art of fencing,
working out with championship European
teams and participating in tournaments. In
the foyer of his home are displayed his highly
prized foils — rapiers and face-guards.
The house itself is another expression of
the genius of this man. Coming to California
on his way from Paris to an exhibit in Ha-
waii in 1930, he first felt its charm and de-
cided to return someday to make his home.
He came again in 1936 and picked out his
mountain-top. It was a little hard to persuade
the realtor to sell it to him, inasmuch as it
had no road, no improvements of any kind.
But to the man who can chisel his will into
marble or granite, the carving of a mountain-
top into a building site was no obstacle. He
bought the mountain. He returned in 1940 to
rest, but resting to this active soul is ab-
horrent, therefore he decided to build his
house. But first he must have the plans. Re-
member, the man is also an architect.
Pulitzer Finali, famous Italian architect and
designer of palatial ocean liners, exiled from
Europe by war and politics, came to visit,
remained to help. And so emerged the perfect
studio-home . . the almost monastic little
house surmounting the rugged hills. High-
ceilinged, high-windowed rooms, smooth plas-
ter walls provide a perfect setting for statuary,
books and photo-murals. There is a library
of rare Russian first editions as well as many
books in other languages. There is an indoor
studio and an outdoor studio . . an open
terrace, where low tables and chairs provide
for pleasant relaxation. The kitchen turns its
face toward the city. The studios look toward
the dark, chaparral-covered canyons, the ever-
changing lights and shadows of the hills de-
light him, soothe him, inspire him.
If art and artists frighten you, relax. For
Boris Lovet-Lorski says that people are all
Here's an interesting perspective in the studio
of artist Boris Lovet-Lorski's mountain-top house
different and they have a right to express
these differences in taste. "If you like a thing
or you don't, it's perfectly all right. A person
who is not an artist, a creator, should never
be bothered to try to say why he likes or
dislikes something. Only having lived, looked
and learned the person might know the dif-
ferent values and appreciate them."
Personally, we can't imagine anyone dislik-
ing Lovet-Lorski's work. But a good part of
the American public will have the chance to
decide for themselves this year. For Boris is
taking not one but two complete exhibits on
tour, starting in Boston, this month. Within a
few weeks the second exhibition will start
at the United Nations Club in Washington,
D. C. This is, so far as we can tell, the first
time any artist has undertaken a tour of this
magnitude. The two shows, featuring mostly
decorative pieces, are completely different,
and the fact that they will be held simul-
taneously means that in the space of a year
they will cover the same territory, it would j
take at least 32 months to do otherwise. Lovet-
Lorski plans to end both tours in Texas some-
time in September of 1949, and return to his J
Beverly Hills studio. He is already planning ]
and dreaming of further works to be accom-
plished then.
From Boston, the show will go to Buffalo,
Pittsburgh, Detroit, Cleveland and then on "
toward Dallas. The Washington exhibit will !
go to St. Louis, Des Moines, St. Paul, Denver
and thence to Dallas. Other stops en route will
be arranged later.
Thus, the sculptor who has idealized the I
love, the songs, and the sorrows of humanity
in statuary that is frozen poetry, goes out to '
mingle with people of his adopted land. We
predict that "Lorochka," the sculptor, the i
horseman, the fencer, the man, will quicken '
the pulse of the American public to a real
appreciation of art.
And he will come back to his mountain- '
top, where in the morning it is an island i
rising from the mist, in the evening a white- 1
crested battlement surmounting a city swim-
ming in golden haze, at night an aerie sus-
pended in a sea of stars. Such an awesome i
atmosphere is entirely appropriate to the cre-
ator of an Ariadne, a Madonna, an Adam
and Eve, a Diana, a Narcissia, the famous
Cycle of Sorrow, Venus, and The Unknown
God.
PORTOLA CELEBRATION MAJOR EVENT IN OCTOBER
I o commemorate Don Gaspar de Portola's dis-
covery of San Francisco Bay in 1769, a gigantic
festival and pageant holds sway in San Fran-
cisco from October 2 to November 7, with
parades, opera, football, tennis, golf and car-
nival events to entertain the expected thousands
of visitors who will be enjoying northern Cali-
fornia during the months of Indian Summer.
Here are the highlights:
October 2-3: Portola Open Skeet Shooting Cham-
pionships
October 2-10: U.S.L.T.A National Hard Court
Tennis Championships
October 6-10: Portola Open Golf Tournament
October 10-17-24: Polo — Mexico vs California
October 13: Opera — one act each from "Car-
men," "Barber of Seville," and
"Forza del Destino"
October 15-17: N.R.A. Pacific Coast Regional
Pistol Matches
October 16: Football — Oklahoma A. & M. vs Uni-
versity of San Francisco
October 17: Arrival of famed Portola Trek from
San Diego, Grand Parade, Sacred
Music Concert, Solemn Pontifical
Mass and other religious celebra-
tions
October 17-22: Portola Pageant
October 23: Portola Night Parade, Grand Car-
nival, Masked Ball, dancing, fire-
works display
October 24: Portola Folk Festival
Other events of interest throughout the state:
DOLL EXHIBIT — In San Diego October 4-9 at
Goodwill Industries Building, displaying 2000 un-
usual dolls.
FARMERS FAIR— In Hemet October 6-10, home
of Ramona Pageant, with theme of California
Centennial.
ART EXHIBIT — Throughout October at Pomona
College, featuring contemporary works of John
Piper, Rico Lebrun, Berman, Derain, Dufy, Degas,
Modigliani and Dali.
COUNTY FAIR— In Ventura October 6-10.
WINE FESTIVAL — In Delano October 7-10, fea-
turing big parade of vineyard workers in na-
tive costumes.
FOOTBALL — October 16 in San Diego for 11th
annual Shrine charity game. San Diego State
vs Pepperdine College.
PIONEER DAYS — October 16-17 in Twenty-Nine
Palms.
GOLD RUSH DAYS — In Mojave October 16-17
hard-rock miners compete with crack drilling
teams as feature of celebration.
RODEO — In Lakeside, near San Diego, Octo-
ber 17.
WESTERN WEEK — In Palm Springs October 28-
31 to include square dancing, parade and
gymkhana.
HALLOWE'EN FESTIVAL — In Anaheim October 30,
with kids' parade at 2 p.m., grand parade at 7.
TOURS TO PALOMAR — Every Wednesday and
Sunday morning from U.S. Grant Hotel in San
Diego. Tanner Gray Line on "Highway To The
Stars" all-day excursion to observatory.
NAYY DAY — Selected ships of the fleet will hold
open house to the public October 27.
Quilted Robe Available
At California Stores
lleischman's lovely quilted robe in several col-
ors and floral print, as advertised on page 13,
is available in sizes 14 to 20, under $25, at
the following California stores:
Angels Camp, Marie's; Areata, C. J. Hill; Bel-
mont, The Band Box; Berkeley, J. F. Hink & Son;
Brentwood, Irene's; Ceres, Florence Shop; Chico,
T. J. Kelly Company; Colusa, J. J. O'Rourke;
Eureka, McGaraghan's; Folsom, Polk's; Gilroy,
The Smart Shop; King City, Freeman's, Inc.;
Larkspur, Larkspur Dry Goods; Livermore, Fashion
Center; Lompoc, Moore Mercantile Company, Ltd.;
Los Angeles, Kathe Lynne Shop; Los Gatos, Nell
Berryman; Manteca, The Toggery; Marysville,
Carlin's; Menlo Park, Lucelle's; Millbrae, Fashion
Bar; Oakland, Capwell, Sullivan & Furth; Palo
Alto, The Clothes Closet; Paso Robles, Paso Robles
Mercantile Co.; Pittsburg, Betty Byers; Porterville,
Allen Style Shop; Rio Vista, Bird's Dress Shop;
San Carlos, San Carlos Dress Shop; San Fran-
cisco, City of Paris, Quality Shop and Sally's;
Sanger, Hemphill's; San Jose, Hart's and
Rose Lee Dress Shop; San Mateo, Levy Bros.;
Santa Cruz, Johnson's; Santa Maria, W. A. Haslam
Company; Solvang , Nielson & Rasmussen;
Sonoma, G. H. Hotz; Sonora, Sanford's; Stock-
ton, Katten & Marengo; Taft, Ladies Toggery;
Turlock, Jewel Shop; Visalia, Wanda's Style
Shop; Yuba City, Taylor's.
60
'HERE TO BUY EMMA DOMB TAFFETA DRESS
I ima Domb's party gown in tissue taffeta, as
i.ertised on poge 26, is available for under
;. at the following stores:
BlSKA: Northern Commercial Co.
, ZONA: Bisbee, Phelps Dodge; Babbitt Bros.,
Jgstaff and Winslow; Diamond Dry Goods and
filter King, Phoenix; Albert Steinfeld, Tucson.
,i(ANSAS: Russellville, Hunt Walden Co.
I TI5H COLUMBIA: Vancouver, Woodward
!-es, Ltd.
( JFORNIA: Chico, Arnette's; Glendale, Col
|l ate Shop; Healdsburg, Nellie Shelf ord; In
nwood, French Model Shop; Long Beach
Jitter's; Los Angeles, Bullock's, May Co.
| adway; Alhambra, Crocker's; Oakland, H
Capwell, Goldman "s; Palo Alto, Clothes
set; Pasadena, F. C. Nash Co.; Sacramento,
nstock-Lubin Co.; Salinas, The Fashion
| Vogue; San Francisco, Emporium, The
Ite House; San Diego, Marston Co. and House
Brides; San Luis Obispo, Christine's; Santa
i, Malcolm's; Santa Barbara, Mitzi's; Santa
J ilea, Rose Gold; Yuba City, Vogue Dress
P-
LORADO: Colorado Springs, Neufeld's; Den-
\l Denver Dry Goods; Pueblo, Douglas Shop.
||mNECTICUT: Hartford, G. Fox Co.
RIDA; Orlando, Dickson & Ives.
'. | //A 1 1 = Honolulu, Adorable Dress Shop.
.HO: Twin Falls, Bertha Campbell; Moscow,
[lid's; Idaho Falls, Mademoiselle Shop;
ijitpellier, Sally Shop; Pocatello, Fargo-Wil-
llWells.
IINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field; Rockford,
tranovo's.
HANA: Indianapolis, L. S. Ayres Co.; Fort
yne. Wolf & Dessauer.
VA: Des Moines, Younkers.
«JSAS: Wichita, Hinkel's; Topeka, Crosby Bros.
I 1TUCKY: Louisville, Stewart Dry Goods Co.
JISIANA: New Orleans, Holmes Co.
j RYLAND: Baltimore, Stewart & Co.
I5SACHUSETTS: New Bedford, Jeffrey's.
!HIGAN: Pontiac, Arthur's,- Detroit, J.
Ison.
■JNESOTA: Minneapolis, Donaldson's; Wor-
I igton, Gramac's.
MISSOURI: Kansas City, Emery-BIrd-Thayer; St.
Louis, Famous-Barr.
MONTANA: Great Falls, Strain Bros.
NEBRASKA: Lincoln, Miller 8. Paine.
NEVADA: Elko, Tip Top Dress Shop; Reno
Gray Reid, Wright.
NEW JERSEY: Newark, Bamberger's.
NEW YORK: New York City, McCreery's,
B loom ingd ale's; Brooklyn, Frederick Loeser;
Buffalo, Wm. Hengerer Co.; Jamaica, Gertz
Dept. Store.
OHIO: Steubenville, Reiner's; Cincinnati, Roll-
man's; Cleveland, Halle Bros.; Dayton, Ryke
Komler.
OKLAHOMA: Oklahoma City, John Brown Co.;
Tulsa, Brown Dunkin Co.
OREGON: Portland, Meier & Frank; Salem,
Sally's; Eugene, Millers'.
PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, Bonwit Teller;
Pittsburgh, Kaufmann's.
RHODE ISLAND: Providence, Gladdings.
TENNESSEE: Nashville, Loveman, Berger &
Teifelbaum; Memphis, John Gerber's; Jackson,
Kisber's.
TEXAS: Dallas, Sanger Bros.; El Paso, Popular
Dry Goods Co.; San Antonio, Joske's.
UTAH: Salt Lake City, Auerbach's; Cedar City,
Moderne Style Shoppe.
WASHINGTON: Seattle, Bon Marche, Frederick
& Nelson; Spokane, Palace Dry Goods; Tacoma,
Rhodes Bros.
WASHINGTON, D. C.i The Hecht Co.
WISCONSIN: Madison, Denniston's; Ripon, Pat-
rick's.
WYOMING: Cheyenne, Fowler's.
I KNOW BETTER
I know a man who thinks anything,
Even love, can be bought with money
But my mother didn't raise any dumb
children,
She only dressed them funny!
— Dawn Flanery Parker
A SALT SHAKER THAT ALWAYS POURS IN DAMPEST WEATHERi
This beautiful BLUE MAGIC salt shaker is
made of crystal clear glass. This new inven-
tion has a moisture absorbing cap which
may be set aside during mealtime. Lasts in-
definitely. Keeps salt dry and free flowing at
all times. A pepper shaker to match and
small plastic funnel included in this superb-
y styled condiment set. An ideal hostess
gift. Guaranteed by Good Housekeeping.
Send for a set now. You may want more
before damp weather arrives.
Price 82-5 O £»'w
SILVERMINE SPECIALTIES CO. Box 336, New Csnaan, Conn.
BARREL O' MONEY-
BANK
It's Attractive!
It's Practicall
Hand-made of half-
inch natural white
oak, banded with 4
brass hoops, it be-
longs where it will be
seen. Measuring 6"x
4" ' , it can hold $1 1 in
pennies, or $32.50 in
nickels, or $150 in
either dimes or quar-
ters (we've tried itl)
protected by a fool-
proof lock and key.
Bet you'll want onel
$2.95 postpaid
No C.O.D.s, please
Witt's Country Store, New Canaan, Connecticut
PELI-CAN BAR BIRD. The new
Peli-Can opener punctures a big-
ger hole for easier pouring of
canned liquids. It is also an ex-
cellent bottle opener and pryer-
offer of Jar tops . . . heavy
enough to crack cube ice. Of
solid aluminum with cutting
point and edges of hardened
steel. $1.95 postpaid.
$27. OU , postpaid.
Ready to mail with our
Money-Back Guarantee
ORDER THIS CHRISTMAS GIFT
JACKET BY MM!
Full of California's golden colors and years-ahead style, Riviera has
designed the Carefree jacket for the man of your choice . . for the
gift of the year! Exclusively patterned from the highest quality rayon
gabardine, hand-picked collar and front, large saddle pouch pockets,
the cleverly concealed one-button closure, and comfortable, roomy
shoulders that permit the utmost in action . . in freedom-loving wear.
The perfect Christmas or birthday gift . . in five beautiful colors . .
Palm Canyon Cocoa, Pacific Navy Blue, Prospector Rust, Arrowhead
Silver Gray, California Vintage Maroon . . in sizes to fit. 34, 36,
38, 40, 42, 44, 46, In regular, short and long lengths. Order todayl
TO: THE MARGORITA SHOP
1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Pleose send me the Carefree jacket:
COLOR
Palm Canyon Cocoa
Pacific Navy Blue
Prospector Rust
Arrowhead Silver Gray
California Vintage Maroon
(Please Indicate Second Color Choice)
(Name)
(Address)
Check
Enclosed
a
(City, Zone and State)
Money Order
Enclosed
a
THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948
61
HOW DO YOU LOOK?
Which Figure Is Yours?
Do you know how to dress your particular
figure? Do you know how to play up your
good points, play down your figure faults?
Dressing by Design is a famous fashion de-
signer's notebook . . it's a coordinated col-
lection of 10 important fashion articles that
tell you simply, and graphically, how to dress
to your personality . . and your figure.
Do You Know How To Accessorize?
Dressing by Design tells you how to achieve
accessory balance with each outfit you wear.
How to appear, constantly, as a well-dressed
woman.
Do You Know How To Harmonize?
Do you know how to select fabrics and styles
that become you? Dressing by Design does
these things for you . . in an easy-to-read,
easy-to-understand booklet . . with each sub-
ject graphically illustrated for your reference.
• It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll
want to keep . . for only 50 cents. It's a di-
gested course in design for dressing that
could cost you ever so much more. And it's a
wonderful gift for others as well.
DRESSING BY DESIGN
Write For Your Copy Today
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid.
To: The Californian, 1020 S.
Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of
DRESSING BY DESIGN
Main St.,
to:
(Name)
(Address)
Enc
(City, Zone and State)
losed is payment for □ copies.
Al His Ideas Are Grandiose
(Continued from page 56) lace K. Harrison
of New York is chairman of the board of
design, and is director of planning for the
United Nations headquarters building in
New York; William W. Wurster is dean of
the school of architecture and planning at
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Eero
Saarinen, internationally known architect of
Detroit; Henry Dreyfuss, famous New York
and Pasadena industrial designer; Gordon B.
Kaufmann, Charles 0. Matcham, William
Pereira and Reginald D. Johnson, who are
noted for their outstanding work in Cali-
fornia.
Over the businessmen's lunch at the Cali-
fornia Club, Smith, Mudd, Ruddock and Win-
nett decided it was time to do something
about acquiring the real estate. The trick
would be to raise the money and buy key
parcels of land at each site before it was
generally known t hat GLAPI needed the
property. Smith helped to form a syndicate
of seven firms, each of which pitched in
§50,000. All checks were made out to Ray
W. Smith. Ray W. Smith personally bought
the land, after the real estate board of four,
B. O. Miller, Clem Glass, Louis Pfau and
Clay Saint, had recommended each purchase
in writing.
Smith had better luck than he expected,
spent the 3350,000 in a hurry, eventually spent
a million and a half. Victor Rossetti, then
treasurer of GLAPI and still president of
conservative Farmers and Merchants Bank,
inveigled the Los Angeles Clearing House
to lend $200,000 worth. $750,000 more was
raised as a result of a luncheon meeting Ray
arranged at the Biltmore. Smith, who loves
to talk and who "can't wait until they call on
him," loves to raise money. He presented the
amended plan for the auditorium and opera
house to more of Los Angeles' business big-
wigs, showed slides as visual aids, and ap-
plied the punch line with his plea for 815,000
apiece from those attending. It was an ex-
pensive "blue plate special." An eastern rep-
resentative of Statler Hotels, having just
planed in, was primed to give the first fifteen.
Statlers new multimillion dollar hotel soon
will be started in Los Angeles. But aging
James G. Warren, representing the Biltmore,
was first on his feet. P. G. Winnett came
through with S15,000 for Bullock's and an-
other fifteen for Bullock's-Wilshire, a com-
panion store. Tom May had to raise his ante
another fifteen for May Co.-Wilshire. Ray
Smith just loves to raise money.
"All I wanted to achieve in the initial real
estate purchase," Smith declared, "was to es-
tablish a comparative value on the various
pieces of property, obtain small parcels in
each block, and apply for condemnation pro-
ceedings for the rest. But we were able to buy
readily more than we expected we'd be able
to buy. One-third of the 112 parcels in the
auditorium area have been acquired; and a
fair sample of the parcels in the opera house
site. Everywhere the owners have been friend-
ly."
A look at the real estate map in Smith's
large, well-groomed office will show that many
parcels in the auditorium site are owned by
powerful Pacific Electric Railway. But Smith
doesn't anticipate any trouble there. Mrs. J.
Walter Schneider, widow of one of the owners
of Robinson's Department Store, owns a
large home on the Lafayette Park property.
She's willing to vacate any time GLAPI gives
the word.
What are they planning? The auditorium
will be the largest in the world, completely
equipped for radio, television and the press,
as will the opera house. Original intention
was to build an auditorium that would seat
30,000 for any event, but that idea was cast
aside as unwarranted and uneconomical.
Present plans, to have been approved in Sep-
tember's preliminary report of the architects,
call for an edifice that will seat from 20,000
to 30,000, depending on the nature of the
I.
event. Ultimately it will be the site for
America's largest conventions, for outstand-
ing sporting events, for the biggest and finest
of displays, as exhibit space is provided both
at the streeet level adjoining the auditorium
and underground to lead into the main hall.
Parking space will be available for 5000 cars,
and provisions are being made to accommodate
a huge Veterans Building which could con-
tain all major veterans activities in the area.
Capacity seating for the opera house will
be 4500, but "drop ceilings" can telescope
the seating space to 2600 for symphonies and
small group events. It is anticipated that the
entire project will pay for itself in "a rea-
sonable length of time . . say, 20 to 30 years."
P. G. Winnett has been the financial
wheelhorse in the operation to date, the hearty
endorser need to lead the way to each new
decision, in each step of the rapidly formu-
lating plan. But Ray W. Smith is the general,
the executive officer. Eagerness compels An-
gelenos to watch anxiously for signs of con-
struction, for the demolition of properties that
cover the chosen sites. But GLAPI moves
slowly and surely.
"Eventually," Smith declares, "we'll develop
our own opera company, using our own tal-
ent. We'll always welcome the Metropolitan
and the San Francisco Opera Companies, but
we need one of our own, too. The success
of the Met here last spring and the San
Francisco opera company here every yeai
proves this fact. In Los Angeles we have
everything yet to do . ."
What manner of man is this who calmly
spends a million and a half of other people's
money, who is first-name acquaintance to the
town's tycoons? Ray Smith, it seems, always
was an extrovert . . with a love for organiza-|
tion, for civic good will. Born in Logansportf
Indiana, he majored in political science and!
city management at the University of Michi-I
gan, transferred to Stanford in 1922 to fur-
ther his study of government research. He]
was married in 1918, the father of two chilt
dren when he was in college, and will tell;
you that his eldest son remembers dad's i
graduation day. While in Palo Alto Smithf
managed the Chamber of Commerce, thei
Western School for Trade Organization Execul
tives, and the Santa Clara County Consolil
dated, which was a combine of Chambers oii
Commerce. In 1928 he moved on to biggeil
things in San Francisco, became manager o);
the Community Chest, mixed with the Flei!
shackers and the Crockers. In 1936 he becamij
director of finance for the Golden Gate Inl
temational Exposition. He raised the moneji
to put on San Francisco's gigantic fair. II!
1941 Smith came south, joined the Down).
town Businessmen's Association, and has beei|>
a Southern California caballero ever sinceji
He lives in fashionable Los Feliz Hills, nov
has three sons who totaled 12 years servicii
in the war. He reads continually in wha
spare time he can squeeze.
The office of a man like Ray Smith is in..
dicative of his daily pursuits. On the wallil
are pictures of "Norm" and "Walter" ancj
"Henry" . . of a dozen of his good friend:
and heaviest contributors. There, too, anlj
numerous citations, for war bond drives, fron!
civic organizations, from Stanford University:
from luncheon clubs. In fact, you get the imi
pression that if you gave Ray anything oi
paper . . he'd frame it. The twinkle-eyei
thin man likes to doodle while he's talkini
on the phone. He's eternally active, but h'|j
doesn't go for sports or physical exercise
Like Robert Hutchings, he prefers to "li|
down until that particular urge for exertioi
passes over."
A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION
Of The Californian to your friends is <
pleasant, constant reminder of your thought
fulness. Only $3.00 a year. Subscribe today
62
THE CALIFORNIA!
rivateers were coming! The warning that Bouchard's pirates were
on their way to Monterey, slumberous capital of California, struck
terror into the hearts of the Californians in 1818. They put up a desperate
fight when the buccaneers landed. As the plundering and burning grew in in-
tensity, everyone fled to the south . . . with the exception of beautiful Dona Guadalupe
Ortega, who remained praying in the Royal Chapel. She rose to her feet when Blond
«Joe, wild giant leader of the pirates, burst into the chapel, torch in hand. His
companion, Carney, aided by the effects of the Commandante's brandy, was certain
that they were confronted by an angel ! Blond Joe roared, and proved it was no
visitation by putting his torch to one of the girl's braids. She escaped into the
night and, more furious at this violation than at the burning of the town, rode
south to warn Rancho El Refugio.
When the pirates arrived to plunder Ortega rancho, it was deserted . . . then
Blond Joe himself was captured and at the mercy of the indignant Dona Guadalupe,
who insisted that he be shot. Her temper didn't improve when Padre Ullibarri saved
the Americano and put him to work in the mission. As time went on, the huge
I blond captive became the prize of the missions ... his travels had taught him
many crafts, including a bit of doctoring. Thus it was that when Dona Guadalupe
was thrown from her horse and her broken arm knit badly, her father swallowed
his California pride and begged El Americano to heal his daughter. The girl was
haughty, the ex-pirate embarrass-
ed, but he rebroke and set her
arm. Blond Joe stayed at the
I rancho for a bit, and when he
prepared to leave, Guadalupe sur-
prisingly offered her hand. Not
! until then did Joe reveal that he
I had carried the much-discussed
: braid with him all this time.
In the middle of his apology
i was a proposal . . . and El Ameri-
cano found himself prisoner
again. Among the plans for a
lavish wedding was a secret of
Blond Joe's . . . soon the Guada-
lupe, first ship to be built in
Southern California, would be
launched at San Pedro. Then, at
last, the pirate would return to
the sea with his treasure . . .
but only for a honeymoon.
a true story by alice carey
EVER READY'
' APPAREL CJTY
MAOE iN CALIFORNIA
at belter stores
everywhere
Style 483
sizes 32 to 38
about
$3.95
Pink,
White
or
Blue
GUARANTEED
SANFORIZED
VAT-DYED
FLANNELETTE
LIMITED SUPPLY! ORDER NOW!
The Grandest Tradition for the
Grandest Feasts of the Year
THANKSGIVING and CHRISTMAS
Demands Nothing Less
than the Genuine
SMITHFIELD HAM
BAKED, READY-TO-SERVE
Smithfield Hams are cured only in Smith-
field, Va., from selected peanut-fed razor-
back pigs. Their unique flavor defies com-
parison. Truly the world's most delicious
ham. Gift packaged. 3 sizes — (8 to 10 lbs.);
(10 to 12 lbs.); (12 to 14 lbs.) — net baked
wt. Price $2.00 per lb., prepaid. (50c extra
per ham west of Miss.) Send money order
or check with order. We try to come as
close as possible to weight wanted, and will
refund or bill you for difference.
HAM CORPORATION
412-16 W. 33rd Street
NORFOLK, VIRGINIA
^Jfe
October, 1948
63
San Francisco Celebrates Ride of Portola With Civic Festiva
(Continued from page 45) several times; the
coastal ranges have been timbered; hills
have been leveled; earthquakes have shifted
the topography, and Portola's scouts would
certainly never recognize San Francisquito
Creek, near the site of Stanford University,
on which they camped. Islais Creek, on which
other explorers camped a couple of years later,
is now the center of San Francisco's bour-
geoning women's wear industry. A large Ap-
parel Center has been erected, and if the ten-
ants find that leather jerkins of the soldados
of Portola's party have anything to recom-
mend them as ladies' fashions, the good Don
may see some 18th Century costumes on
Grant Avenue during the festival this fall.
The story of the discovery of San Fran-
cisco Bay really starts almost 350 years ago
when Sebastian Vizcaino discovered Monterey
Bay on December 28, 1602. Vizcaino, one of
Spain's vicarious merchant-mariners, named
the Bay for his patron, Conde de Monterey.
For the next 160 years no steps were taken
to settle Alta California, although the Jesuits
managed to establish a few missions in Baja
California.
On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of
Spain issued a decree expelling the Jesuits
from the Spanish dominions. Portola, a cap-
tain of dragoons, was appointed Governor of
the Californias and sailed from Tepic with
25 dragoons, 25 infantry and 14 Franciscan
friars to dispossess the Jesuits and install the
Franciscans. Two land expeditions set out
from Velicata: One was under Don Fernando
de Rivera y Moncado, and the other under
Portola. They were to meet in San Diego
and continue their march northward. Addi-
tional supplies were sent north by sea to San
Diego and Monterey Bay,
Portola left May 15, 1769, (the day after
Easter) with Father Serra, 15 soldiers under
Sgt. Ortega, two servants, muleteers and In-
dians . . a party of 44. The meeting was
made with Rivera, who had left earlier, on
June 30. It is reported that the Dieguenos
Indians were rascally. They begged and stole
everything they could. Portola lost most of
his clothes and the Indians so distressed Fa-
ther Serra that he permitted them to talk him
out of his glasses. But the good man was so
much at a loss that he had to make a deal
to retrieve them.
The march northward toward Monterey
Bay was resumed by the combined parties on
July 14. There were 27 soldados under
Rivera; Ortega, Pedro Fages and six Catalan
volunteers (all who were able to travel) ; En-
sign Costanso, the priests Crespi and Gomez,
seven muleteers, 15 Christian Indians and two
servants . . 64 in all. Some of California's
most illustrious names were on this roster,
including Pedro Amador, for whom Amador
County was named; Juan Bautista Alvarado;
and Jose Raimundo Carillo, whose descend-
ants include a well-known engineer whose
brother is a movie actor. Jose Antonio Yorba,
who later became the grantee of the Rancho
Santiago de Santa Ana, was also along as
was Jose Ignacio Oliveras and Jose Maria
Soberanes, progenitors of distinguished fam-
ilies. The day after Portola left, Father Serra,
who remained behind, founded the mission
of San Diego de Alcala, the first mission es-
tablished in Alta California.
The expedition followed approximately
what afterwards became known as the El
Camino Real, and on the fourth day arrived
at what was to become San Juan Capistrano.
This name was later transferred to a mis-
sion 40 miles farther north. The party halted
one day at what is now Los Angeles to gain
THE GREATEST VALUE
EVER OFFERED!
It's tailored of Vigorized Thorobred
Crease-resistant Gabardine
the jacket: Club Collar . . . Large Bellows Pockets . . .
Inserted Square Yoke . . . Gold Finished Buttons & Buckle . . .
Smart Bishop Sleeves with Tab Cuffs
the Skirt: Smartly Tailored . . . The New Slim Skirt. . .
Smart Slit Front
"from collar to hemline, it has that NEW, new look!"
colors: Black, Kelly Green, Royal Blue, Gray
sizes: 10 to 18 Junior sizes: 9 to 17
BETTY CO-ED OF HOLLYWOOD,DeP. 338
6402 Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood 28, California
ORDER BY MA I L N O W !
Betty Co-Ed of Hollywood, Dept. 289
6402 Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood 28, California
Please send "Town 'n' Country" Suit Dress at $11.88
D 1 enclose payment G Mail CO. D.
Sizes: 10 12 14 16 18 Jr. sizes: 9 11 13 15 17
(Circle your size)
Colors: Black Kelly Green Royal Blue Gray
(Mark 1st and 2nd color choice)
Name
2 WAYS TO ORDER:
1. Send no money
— we mail CO. D.
2. Send payment with
order— we pay postage
_ Zone
_State_
i. odd 21/:* Sole* Ton)
M ON E Y B A C K GUARANTE E
H:
64
the indulgence of Porciuncula (August 2) .
called the Grand Pardon of Assisi . . th<
great indulgence of the Franciscans. This
was originally granted to St. Francis for th<
Church of Our Lady of the Angeles of Por
ciuncula. The following day they came t(
the San Fernando Valley which was giver
the name Valle de Santa Catalina de los En
cinos . . the Valley of St. Catherine of the
Oaks.
On the last day of September Portola haltec
near the mouth of the Salinas River, withir
sound of the ocean. For three days Riven
led a party south, while Portola went nortl
in search of the elusive Monterey Bay. Thej
found an ensenada but "where's the protectee
bay of Monterey?" It eventually turned on
that the ensenada Rivera found was Carme
Bay. The march was resumed October
and on November 6 they reached the camp
ing site above Stanford University from when
Ortega scouted forth and found San Fran
cisco Bay or, as they called it, an estero. I
was here the men were reduced to eatinf,
acorns and any food they could talk awa;
from the neighborhood Indians.
Six days later they left the camping site
and on December 10 were again back or
Monterey Bay. Here they erected a cross al
Pacific Grove with a description of their de
parture for San Diego, which they reachec
January 24, 1770. After replenishing theii
supplies and resting for two and one-hali
months, the party again headed north on Apri!
17. They arrived back at Monterey Bay (al
Punta de Pinos) May 24. On the 3rd ol
June Portola took possession of the territorj
and established the first presidio in Alta Cali-
fornia, and the second mission, which was
called San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey
Portola then delivered command of the new
establishments to Lieutenant Fages and sel
sail on his supply ship "San Antonio," which1
had met them in the Bay, on July 9 for San
Bias and, as one chronicler wrote, "California
knew him no more."
The festival and pageant in honor of Por-(
tola, which is being staged October 2 tOi
November 7 in San Francisco, was probablyi
conceived in the thought that the good Don
should be remembered in the rash of civic
celebrations planned for this year and the next
two. These are three great dates for Northern
California and the state: 1848, 1849 and 1850
made inspiring reading and robust, healthy
history for the whole West Coast.
Thirty-nine years ago San Francisco went
all out in the celebration of Portola's ex-
pedition. This year the committee seems more
intent on publicity received than any pre-
conceived ideas of historical dates involved.
On October 2, opening day of the festival,
Portola in 1769 was wandering around the
mouth of the Salinas, hearing the surf of
Monterey Bay, but unable to find it. On Octo-
ber 17, when the 1948 Portola party is sched-
uled to ride up Market Street in a great
parade honoring the Catalan, Don Gaspar
was camped at what is now Santa Cruz.
October 25 found Portola in 1769 encamped
on San Gregonia Creek, one-half mile south of
Half Moon Bay, his party weary and ravaged
by scurvy, not sure where they were and almost
ready to turn back. Out in the western
reaches of San Francisco today, almost within
sound of the surf and about four miles west
of Mission Dolores, stands the Portola House,
a modern abode of glass and stucco with a
touch of Spanish . . a patio. This house was
the main prize this summer in a great draw-
ing to publicize the festival. Recipient was
a New Zealand sailor who at the time of the
drawing was far at sea aboard an oil tanker.
He probably had never heard of Gaspar de
Portola until he received the cable notifying
him he had won.
His reaction was typical of a lot of things
surrounding the Spanish adventurer: The
sailor sold his house to the highest bidder.
THE CAL1FORNIAN
Five More Tones Than Most — The Story of Schoenberg
{Continued from page 43) fugues. Bach has
lone all in that art. I have often thought of a
;ourse in practical counterpoint for arrangers,"
re muses. "There are a number of talented
musicians among radio and movie composers,
DUt music will never be distinguished until
.he producers stop using their own taste as a
yardstick."
Of movies in general he feels they should
be divided into two classes, like opera and
operetta. "You go to an opera twenty times
and most operettas only once. In the same
way some pictures should be made to be seen
Dver and over, and others simply for light
unusement."
For those who are interested in this sort of
thing, Arnold Schoenberg's work might
roughly be divided into three periods, the
first of which is exemplified by the now
readily accepted Transfigured Night. This
work, in the romantic tradition, shows the in-
fluence of Wagner and Brahms.
In his second period, he showed indica-
tions of this evolution. No longer a romanticist
completely, he was indicating the possibilities
pf the twelve-tone scale in such works as
Pierrot Lunaire wherein songs are spoken
kgainst a background of a chamber music
ensemble.
His third period, which includes his resi-
lience in California, has brought to full
growth his artistry to compose in twelve chro-
matic tones. Although "atomic" is used these
pays to describe practically everything in the
world from bombs to toys, Schoenberg ac-
tually has "atomized" music and reduced it to
its smallest terms. To those who became rest-
less while taking piano lessons in their lovely
Ivouth, the seven-tone system is the one they
[will recognize as the conventional, the one
they learned. Schoenberg does it differently.
He arranges the twelve tones into a pattern.
[That pattern exists also in reverse, also up-
side down and upside down in reverse. His
method freed music from the restrictions of
khe key note, making possible almost limitless
melodies and harmonies.
I Music written in the twelve-tone scale hor-
jrifies those creachy listeners accustomed to
[more recognizable compositions. Schoenberg
says "I used to call myself a pupil of Mozart,
which people have found ridiculous. I stem
from him more than from Beethoven or Bach.
This may surprise everybody . . but it is not
a joke."
Among Schoenberg's creations in the twelve-
Itone department are the Violin Concerto com-
pleted in 1936, the String Quartet Number
\Four in the same year, and the Piano Con-
\certo in 1943, which is one of his most im-
portant works.
For the Harvard Symposium on Music
Criticism in 1947, Schoenberg composed a
|7Y!o for Strings. He refused to go east to
pear it, though he inquired anxiously about
the performers. "I hope they are good," he
Isaid. "Because this is the most difficult piece
I have ever written. I did it without any
consideration for the instruments.
i His latest work is Survivor from Warsaw, in-
spired by the heroic but futile struggle of the
inhabitants of the Warsaw ghetto. It is to
Ibe performed by orchestra, narrator and
I men's chorus, and both the words and
music are Schoenberg's own. This dramatic
Iwork was commissioned by the Koussevitsky
Foundation and has not yet been heard.
Schoenberg currently is busy with several
things, as he always is, among them an opera
on a Biblical theme, called Moses and Aaron.
I The first two acts were finished and scored
I sixteen years ago with Schoenberg again writ-
jing both music and libretto, but were laid
aside when he fell out of the mood. The
opera is done completely in the twelve-tone
scale. "It is partly Biblical," explains Schoen-
berg. "While it deals with Aaron as the
j statesman and Moses the philosopher, it also
j contains my own religious philosophy." He
. is full of enthusiasm for it and most eager to
finish it.
Other things ahead of Schoenberg are in
October, 1948
the writing field. In 1911 Schoenberg wrote
a Treatise on Harmony, which contained his
theories on composition. His Theory of Music
was printed in 1940. Currently, he is working
on still another book on musical composition
which is almost ready for the publishers. He
plans to do five books in the next five years,
two of them on counterpoint. In the past he
has written extensive articles for magazines
on musical theories, his general over-all phil-
osophy of music, and art. One of the articles
he presently is preparing is concerned with
the art of caricature, which he intends to il-
lustrate with reproductions of some of his
own work.
Today he doesn't take his painting as seri-
ously as he used to. Earlier his art career
went hand in hand with his music. "I was
really better prepared for painting than for
music as we had instruction in school in the
former. In 1910 and 1911 I painted at least
as much as I composed," admits Schoenberg.
"I went my own way in painting. I made
music with colors," remembers Schoenberg.
"It is necessary to express form with the
same purpose as one composes music. You
cannot compete with photography. You must
use your imagination. Nolde, the German
painter, is a little close to me. He, too, ex-
pressed his ideas in form and colors. Some of
my pictures I sold. A few I gave to my
friends. The rest," he waves, vaguely, "might
even be here in my garage."
The great respect due Dr. Arnold Schoen-
berg's genius has come to him in definite hon-
ors at various times in his life. To celebrate
his fiftieth birthday, in 1924, his native city
of Vienna signalized him. Although the Mayor
delivered an address at the Vienna Town Hall,
assisted by the State Opera Chorus, and he
was awarded the establishment of the Arnold
Schoenberg Bibliothek fur Moderne Musik,
the Vienna State Academy of Music did not ap-
point him to its teaching staff. Instead, how-
ever, the St. Cecelia Academy of Rome con-
ferred upon him its membership and he was
called back to Berlin by Leo Kestenberg to
assume a professorship at the Prussian Acad-
emy of Arts.
Four years ago, when he was seventy, still
others rose up to show respect to the creator
of what has been described by his detractors
as "musical gibberish," and "tuneless, jittery
rhythms." Articles in music and art publica-
tions appeared extolling him as "widening
the boundaries of ultra-modern music." To
prove his defenders meant it, numerous All-
Schoenberg programs were played throughout
the United States.
In 1947 the National Institute of Arts and
Letters designated Schoenberg as the recipi-
ent of its annual award "for an eminent for-
eign artist, composer or writer living in Amer-
ict."
Today his work is being heard continuous-
ly in the United States and increasingly
again in Europe. Recently the Los Angeles
Evenings on the Roof devoted an entire pro-
gram to Schoenberg's compositions; and the
Ojai Music Festival included a Schoenberg.
No wonder, then, this man continues to ex-
press so great an interest in life, that each
phase he utters is full of projects for the
future: books, innumerable articles, all in ad-
dition to the musical measures . . living
examples of what he calls "the emancipation
of dissonance."
At seventy-four, work still fills Schoen-
berg's life, although the doctors try to limit
his actual music writing. Now that people
are understanding his music more clearly, he
is pleased. For those who can't, however,
he has this solace: "I always attempted to
produce something quite conventional, but I
failed and it always, against my will, became
something unusual."
rtttiP0*
CREEPAS, styled by P. A. Donahue of Cali-
fornia, made of fine mercerized cotton bobby
socles and a l/j-inch sole of springy neoprene
sponge, are as comfortable as can be . . . won-
derful to walk on, light, cool to wear. For loung-
ing about the house, In the yard . . . for play
and travel. All this and they're washable too.
In standard bobby sox sizes 7 to 1 1, in solid
colors. Order yours today ... $ 1 .95 pair.
THE MARGORITA SHOP
1018 South Main St., Los Angeles 15. California
sCREEPAS. size.
Send me
RED □ GREEN Q BEIGE □ LIGHT BLUE Q
YELLOW □ NAVY □ BROWN □
at $1.95 a pair, postpaid. Enclosed find money order Q. checV D.
Name
Address-
City
_Stete_
65
Special fob GlvUdbnGA,
Oil Portraits of Family Groups
4 FIGURES ON <Mnnn Reg. to
30x40 in. Canvas 3>IUUU. $2600
(Smaller or larger groups proportionately
priced)
Superbly painted from your photograph
Unconditional Guarantee of Satisfaction
Inquiries Invited
AMERICAN PORTRAIT ARTISTS
Over ] 00 Outstanding Portrait Painters
507 FIFTH AVENUE, (STUDIO 7-H)
NEW YORK 17, NEW YORK
"It a hi/ it a*' Its kins"
Designed for Baby's Comfort
Handmade of soft, durable Fawn-Tan
Buckskin, stitched with linen thread.
The perfect flexible-soled shoes for
first walkers. Approved by Pediatricians.
Size 1 (6-9 mos.) Size 3 (1-2 yrs.)
Size 2 (9mos.-lyr.) Size 4 (2-3 yrs.)
The Ideal Christmas or Shower Gift
S2.95 prepaid
add 7c tax in California
Enclose sire with each ch«clc or M.O.
no C.O.D.'a, pleaia.
The Little Leather Shop
Bo« 1168 Carmel-by-the-Sea, Calif.
Amazing! NEW
EASY-CHAIR TABLE
WHERE TO BUY THE SALLY FORTH DRESSES
BED-TABLE, TOO!
UNIQUE,
USEFUL GIFTI
A smooth working or writing
surface wherever you sit— in
your favorite easy chair, in bed,
or on a couch, and even on a
park bench. HANDEE Comfy
Table unfolds from a handsome
carrying case to a sturdy table,
with telescoping leg adjustable to
any chair height. Ingenious rubber
inserts prevent sliding or marring
He*, EidDitv* rMtw makes HANDEE
Comfy Table a perfect gift for a sick
friend. Yes, four cleverlv concealed fold-
ing legs have been added to make it a
beautiful bed table.
Matched Groin, furni-
ture finish, rich ma-
hogany veneer work-
ing surface 18"x28'.
Ideal for writing.
typing, reeding, play-
ing cards and many
other uses. For invalids, and
convalescents, too. Used by
New York executives and Hollywood writ-
ers, actors, and producers. Some homes
have two! £| #75
Sent postpaid anywhere in U. S. tor only >\OtJ
Order dirwf from W.CF.DtETZ INDUSTRIES, Dept. M-1,
323S OlrtOTYBtfy Htod, CnKumrH 8, ObJ*
Sally Forth's beautiful crepe dress, with
gleaming metallic collar, cuffs and pockets,
as pictured on page 41 , is available at
the following stores. Sizes 10 to 18,
priced under $20.
ARIZONA: Unique Gown Shop, Phoenix.
CALIFORNIA: Loyce Dress Shop, Coalinga;
Louque Dress Shop, Hollywood; Co-Ed
Dress Shop, Huntington Park; Jordan's,
Long Beach; May Co., Los Angeles; Rue's
Dress Shop, Pasadena; LaVerne Dress
Shop, Sacramento; Francine Frocks, San
Diego; Rankin Dry Goods Co., Santa Ana;
Wilson's, Van Nuys; Lucille's, Westwood.
IOWA: Stearns, Des Moines.
LOUISIANA: Johnson's Dress Shop, Shreve-
port.
MICHIGAN: Callighan, Ludington.
MINNESOTA: Bruens, Duluth.
MONOG RAM MED
SCENTinei by DUNHI LL
A lovely gift set by MARY DUNHILL.
The famous SCENTinei perfume container
which guards the perfume in your purse,
and a matching funnel for filling. The
SCENTinei, a metal encased glass bottle,
with a ground glass leakproof stopper . . .
lets no precious drop escape . . . can't get
out of order. Personalized with 2 or 3 initials
engraved without charge.
SCENTinei and Funnel:
Cold lone metal $ 3.50 no tax
Sterling Silver S11.40 incl lax
Individual SCENTinei:
Gold tone metal $ 2. SO no tax
Sterling Silver $ 9.00 incl. tax
Please print initials. No COD's, please
All items postpaid and Gift Boxed.
THE GIFT SCOUT
Dept. B Box 278 Bronxvllle, N. Y.
MISSOURI: The Style Shop, Springfield.
NEW MEXICO: Aldridge-Vogue, Carlsbad;
Swinford, Gallup; Emporium, Santa Fe.
OHIO: Keeti's, Cleveland.
OREGON: Lorenz Dept. Store, Coquille;
Hadley's, Eugene.
TEXAS: Phillipson's, Dallas; Myron's, Port
Arthur; Accessories, Ltd., and The Holly-
wood Shop, Amarillo; The Fashion Bar,
Irving.
UTAH: Her's, Holladay; The Best Shop,
Magna; Gloria Shop, Provo; Salt Lake Knit
Company, Salt Lake City.
from California
GIFTS THAT MAK
CONVERSATION
MAKE YOUR XMAS
' HAND-KNIT IN GORGEOUS
CALIFORNIA COLORS
WITH OUR
SUPERB QUALITY
YARNS
• BEAUTIFUL COLORS
• REASONABLY PRICED
• PROMPT SERVICE
New Customers send 10c for
complete set of samples to
550 A Alabama Street
San Francisco 10, California
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing. Pattern Drafting,
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching.
Day and Evening Classes.
Wood & Oliver
Avi.
Pittsburgh,
Pa.
Atlantic 3855
Modeling.
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &.
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 28059
MERRY MINIATURES
Children love to play with these minia-
ture groceries. They are exact reproduc-
tions of those on mother's shelf, made
of wood for durability. Order this ap-
pealing set for all the young fry on
your Christmas list. Just $1.00 for the
set of ten, postage prepaid. (No
C.O.D.'s please).
WAYS & MEANS
P. O. Box 91, Niagara Square Station
Buffalo, New York
Dealers priees on request.
"";.
if y
- (j
IVegal Splendor. Hand-knit type J
sweater in White, Maize, Gray, Black I
hand-embroidered crown and monogram
color. Sizes 32 to 38.
11.95 coi|
V^ollector's Item. Miniature purse
pact in gold-plate. Hand-engraved first
2y2"x3y2".
6.95 coi
rom the Adele Jewelry Counter
Tete-a-Tete Ash Tray in Gold Plate with
hand-engraved in Silver. Use it on th B
table, nightstand, cocktail table, 27/i//x1 ■
5.95 coil
SEND CHECK OR MONEY ORDER
(Residents of California, please add -ft
sales tax; 3% if in Loi Angeles.)
All orders postpaid.
flean Jdosuj <S/t&j
251 South Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, Calif.
.HEY'RE BEAUTIFUL
TheyVe here at last -they won't
out — Gleaming solid metal holde
corn on the cob; now eat with [
pleasure-Handles kept cool by m
turned air-space fins-Easily twist inl
cob ends -Won't break or melt 01
- Ideal gift for every family, every*
1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plate) $2.
2. Service for 3 (Silver Plate) ».
3. Service for 4 (Chrome Plate) 3.
4. Service for 4 (Silver Plate) 6.
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax.
POSTPAID -CASH. CHECK OR MONEY
HACKE1
ICORPORATI
BOX 312 -CULVER CITY, C|*
66
THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948
OUR SYMBOL
OUR PACKAGING
Costume fay Claire McCardell, 39.95
Fine merchandise deserves
the finest. We take pride
in announcing our beautiful
new packaging . . from tissue
to gift boxes . . . created especially
for us by /&afiet4 c*t 7fCot£o*t.
Buff urns
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
Americans Finest Luxury Clothes • .
are superbly handcrafted and custom-detailed from the finest and most colorful p
wool fabrics the world has to offer. Designed for town, country, or travel wear Ja
man Custom Originals are manufactured in California by America's largest produ
of quality Clothes. ALWAYS HIGH IN QUALITY. . . ALWAYS FAIR IN PRI
i
AT AMERICA'S FINEST STORES OR WRITE
ITE A
custom originc
Los Angeles 14, Califor
Racquet Club Jackets from $70, #"omen'||
from $100, California Club Sport Coals jr
Slack Suits from $60, Cardigan Jackets fr*
Chevy Chase Jackets from $35, Jackman Sla]t
Shirts from $27.50 each. Men's Suits of i>\
Scotch and British fabrics from $100.
ONE
WORLD
I N
FASHION
COHAMA'S
IMPORTED
TOWNPAR
WOOL GABARDINE
superbly fulfills the requirements of sub-
tle line and drama which distinguish
this classic suit by
AD E LE
O F
CALIFORNIA
Imported by Cohama,this luxurious, im-
peccable gabardine again asserts its
leadership as the choice of foremost
designers and smart women-in America
and abroad. In the"One World"of Fash-
ion,one name isoutstanding-Cohama.
OCTOBER WA5 UNITED NATIONS MONTH
CO HAM A
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS, INC. *T. M. Registered
Wear it back . . . wear it front — the skirt with the
bustle-back and adaptable matching stole. Designed
by Western Fashions of Shirley's rayon gabardine in
black, billiard green, smoke tone, castilian red,
gingersnap. Sizes 10 to 18. Skirt and stole, 12,95*
Mail Orders Sun-Chorm Foshionst
THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948
Buff urns'
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
Second Floor *Phs 2'2% Slate Soles Tax
%ntX!uL^«JsovC\00.00
\$*ttn
A
Desmond's, Palm Springs • Burdine's, Miamf • Or write Adele-Califomia, Los Angeles 7,
for information regarding your nearest store.
THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1941
\ LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
n order to get even more closely acquainted with
aur readers, a questionnaire was sent to a cross-
section of our subscribers, and 1,239 of you gra-
ciously gave us an hour (more or less) of your time
in replying. The answers have substantiated our
prejudices about you, and I thought you might like
o take a quick look at a few of the facts.
Your median age is 33 and two-thirds of you are
arried. As for the breadwinner in your family,
the chances are you or he is either a professional
person (21%), a business executive (20%), or in
business for himself (18%). More than half of you
lave incomes of more than $5,000 per year. It's an
sven money bet that you went to college; but it's
wo-to-one that you own your own home. Good
Family people that you are, you carry $17,000 worth
of life insurance, just about six times the national
average.
Whether you own it or not, you think well of your
home: 88% of you own most of your own furni-
ture. You prefer swimming above all other active
-
sa
M
-
e
e
-
*3i
1
m
Mt ■
Bfel^yp:^^_i_ __J
ON THE COVER: Right
and ready for the ruad
. . wherever you go this
dramatic travel coal will
take you in style. Three
huge pockets placed akim-
bo on fine suede cloth in
skipper blue, red, kelh,
cream white, aqua. It's hy
Adele-California, in size*
8-16, about $100 at Bon
Marche, Seattle; The
Hecht Co., Washington,
D. C; Best & Co., New
York. Hat by Agnes
originals. Thompson
Brothers map. Lipstick,
J acquelin Cochran' s
"Bandwagon Red."
sports; you spend $444 on your vocation; you own
one-and-one-half automobiles; and if you don't live
in California, the odds are two-to-one that you
would like to, or plan to.
What pleases us and bolsters our sense of re-
sponsibility toward you is that two-thirds of you
read The CALIFORNIAN from cover to cover, ads
and all; that half of you depend heavily upon it in
planning your own personal wardrobes; and that
38% of you don't read any other fashion maga-
zine regularly. By the way, five people see your
copy of The CALIFORNIAN, and one of these is a
man.
What may send you to your closet for comparison's
sake is our peek into more than a thousand ward-
robes. Here's what we found in the average one:
12 dresses, 4 suits, 3 coats, 5Vz bags, 9 blouses
and 4 swimsuits. You keep this up with an annual
outlay of $480 for clothes for yourself ($870 for the
whole family). Three of four of you actually shop
and buy for your menfolk, and 78% of you make
use of charge accounts.
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones, Alice Sliffler,
Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Frances Anderson, Alice Carey,
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean,
Ann Harris, Jane Christiansen
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
fa
fa
fa
e
e
fa
M
2
fa
=
H
S
C
California fashions
Alice in California's Wonderland 27
For Queen of Hearts or White Queen 28
Dreamy Drama - 30
Gleam of Gold 32
Black Witchery 33
For Christmas Shine and Holiday Fun 34
Christmas Belles 36
The Prettiest Dresses For Children — 38
A White Blouse... 41
Blouse Beautiful 42
The News Is In Print 44
Beversible Fabric For Double Glamour 46
Commuter's Suit 48
Nautical Coordinates 49
Smooth Figure-ing 50
A Man Likes His Leather 56
A New Angle On Skirts 58
The Smartest Accessories For Fall 5fl
What To Wear in California in November 60
California features
Review of Calif orniana, by Hazel Allen Pulling 12
The Circus Comes To Hollywood 40
For A Pleasing Wall Picture, by Kitte Turmell 57
California living
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 52
The Californian House 54
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cat;
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising managt
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-02+7; San Francisco Ofhc.
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson t
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 We*
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years One dollar additional postage per vear outside cop
tinental United States. 3 5c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered z>
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, undci
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically aauthorized.
Go Pencil-slim
CAMPUS
California Sportswear
in COHAMA*
Frostpoint
Campus Modes'1 gold -buckled pencil-slim skirt
takes you everywhere, with outrageous flattery
in every trim line. Center zipper closing is simulated in back
Cohama Frostpoint in black, brown, airflight blue,
forest green, bonfire and heather. 23-32,
about $6.00 at finer shops. Classic shirt
in Crepe Romaine
32-40, about $6.00.
CAMPUS MODES SPORTSWEAR • 1447 Maple Avenue, Los Angeles 15, California
Autumn colors . . .
give a warm new glow to
COHAMA* fROSTPOINT
^
New. muted brilliance and the crisp feel of fashion
in Coha/na's rayon Frostpoint
. . . woven in the spirit of fine men's ivear worsted-
It's crush -resistant, lastingly crisp.
At fabric counters by the yard and in ready to wear.
COHAMA FABRICS • A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Incorporated
•Reg. U. S. Pal. Off
' wm
Cja
alifornia's aristocrat presents this exquisite ensemble . . . gown
of multifilament crepe with luxurious lace bodice, matching
coat of crepe-back satin. At better stores everywhere.
OF CALIFORNIA • 4 17 East Pico Boulevard
THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948
IXj of san francisco
makes marvelous
atcoats like this, always
in luxurious fabrics, and,
iden tally, always great
value for the money,
is one in heavenly
Juilliard Lushana with
airious velvety pile . . .
plush red, cavalier green,
ck . . . sizes 8 to 20 . . .
about ninety-nine dollars
... at better stores.
V* ""* "of san francisco"
ty of sophisticates and superlatives
of longest bridges and
suddenest hills, and fairest
wers and smartest women.
HURRELL PHOTO-ESTHER DOROTHY
FOR NAME OF STORE NEAREST TO YOU, WRITE LILLI ANN. 973 MARKET STREET, SAN FRANCISCO
!
I
\c* Y3a£/X
i
achieves distinction in a three
piece ensemble of
"Wesley Simpson's" Linami
with a striped shantung blouse
harmoniously dyed to match.
Sizes 10 to 20,
to retail about $40.00.
southern California designs by ruth
ken Sutherland sportswear • 315 east eighth street • los angeles, California
10
THE CALIFORNIAN
STELLAR ROBES for Holiday Gifts!
You'll want one for yourself 9 too. They're glamorously
styled to add sparkle to your leisure.
Illustrated is Style 325, in sizes 10 to 20. A lovely quilted screen-printed Jersey
wraparound robe in assorted patterns and colors, with complementary lining. About
$25.00.
Style 329. Same as 325 in rich, crush-resistant Velvet with contrasting lining. American
Beauty, Fuchsia, Scarlet, Royal Blue, Copen Blue, Turquoise, Light Blue or Black.
About $35.00.
At better stores. See page 63 for partial list of stores, or write for name of
your nearest store.
S T E 1. 1, A II
N K C L 1 G K K- INC.
JJO0 P* L OU AVENUE
APPAREL CITY. SAN FSANCISCO 14
c vsuvtat*- OftMv
November, 1948
11
'rCk/tfdi
vrmawat/o,
(left) Cashmere. Long -sleeve
Slipon, as shown, 15.00. Short-
sleeve, 13.00;Cardigan, 17.00.
(right) Cable short-sleeve
Slipon, 8.00, shown with
Cable Cardigan, 11.00.
lOOK FOR THE FLYING FISH
Forcolor folder showing Catalina Sweaters, write Dept. 579,
Catalina, Inc., 443 South San Pedro St., Los Angeles 13, Calil.
PIONEER CALIFORNIA
LAMPOONED IN PROSE
by hazel alien pulling
J\ ntidote to journalistic eulogies of Cali-
fornia anent her centennial is Dreadful Cali-
fornia (Bobbs-Merrill. 162p. $2.75), a much
revised version of Hinton Helper's Land of
Gold. First published in 1855 by a Carolinian
who, two years later was to win fame and the
blessings of Northerners by his bitter dis-
avowal of the South's slave economy, this
vituperative lashing was intended as a coun-
terirritant to the gold rush craze. In it the
"land of gold" was depicted through case
studies and statistics as a land without a
future, a haven for immoral derelicts, and a
devourer of rainbow chasers. The book now
becomes, in the hands of its editors, Lucius
Beebe and Charles M. Clegg, a cleverly humor-
ous and not so subtle invective against the
many current rose-colored interpretations of
California as it was a hundred years ago
and, indirectly, against present-day Califor-
nia's avid espousers. Illustrations by James
Alexander add to the fun-poking character
of the book.
ANOTHER ROYCE
Not all gold rush Californiana published
today, however, is ephemeral spindrift. Josia
Royce, noted California philosopher of the
late nineteenth century, again reappears in
a new edition of his work, California From
the Conquest in 1846 to the Second Vigilance
Committee. One of the series, Western Ameri-
cana, edited by Oscar Lewis and Robert
Glass Cleland, this volume (Knopf, 1948.
394p. 34) bears an introduction by the latter
historian. The book is a jurist's view of the
conquest, the establishment of law and order,
and the beginnings of social and political
life in California under American aegis . .
and the view is not wholly roseately Ameri-
can. Subtitled "a study of American charac-
ter," Royce's interpretation was made from
the viewpoint of what he felt was truth and
justice, and, if true, it challenges America,
as it has in turn been challenged, to re-
survey her motives and her actions.
For the inveterate Californian who likes
his fare served frankly, Max Miller's The
Town With the Funny Name will have ap-
peal (Dutton. 221p. 32.75). This is a series
of whimsical essays written in semi-philo-
sophical vein about the sea town, La Jolla.
Flora, fauna and homo sapiens who inhabit
or frequent the beach city come under the
author's alert field glass as he scans the area
round about. Natives, tourists, local charac-
ters, sea bugs and water grass interest him.
BLANDING'S POETRY
Truly Californian is Mostly California by
Don Blanding, whose poetry and line draw-
ings spell California at its best. This volume
of Californiana (Dodd Mead. 158p. 32.50) is
more than a series of impressionistic views
of her history and her scenery. It is a fantasy
spun from California's sea winds, sunshine
and shifting sands, her swaying tree-tops,
gnarled junipers and eucalyptus and lacy pep-
per trees. It is a glimpse into the spirit of
California that has lived from mission days
to the building of her latest hilltop home.
It is a view of California not found in his-
tory or candid books of travel; it is the
California that all search for but only the
few find. With the able guidance of Don
Blanding in Mostly California, the tangible
California becomes as apparent as the real.
A Centennial contribution that should not
be missed is Ed Ainsworth's California Jubilee
(Murray and Gee. 272p. 33). A late travel
book that is also worthy of note is Along
Yosemite Trails by Josef Muench (Hastings.
32.75).
Editor s note: If you would like Dr. Pull-
ing's interpretation or recommendation on fur-
ther Californiana, please write to her in care
of The Californian.
12
THE CALIFORNIAN
CALIFORNIA POTTERY
RAINBOW COLORS: SEA BLUE • DESERT SAND
BUTTERCUP YELLOW
AQUAMARINE
13" Chop Plate 10" Dinner Plate 7Vi" Salad Plate 5" B & B Plate
9" Nappie
Soup Bowl
Gravy Boat Salt & Pepper Sugar - Creamer
Cup & Saucer Butter Dish
All the sun colors and the charm of
vivid California have poured from the
potter's wheel into this beautiful Santa
Anita California Pottery ... a cher-
ished and welcome gift for your
friends for Christmas . . . for yourself
. . . for the nearlyweds you know.
Sturdy, practicable, colorful, Santa
Anita California Pottery can grace
your table for the holidays ahead.
Scan the accompanying list . . .
Order Today!
Sets are packed in rainbow assort-
ment of all four colors. You may also
order any extra piece you may need
in the items listed in the set. Prices
are delivered to your home. Add
2 V2 % sales tax for delivery in
California.
MAIL YOUR ORDER TODAY TO
Open
Stock
Price
20 Piece
Service
for Four
32 Piece
Service
for Six
44 Piece
Service
for Eight
Additional
Open Stock Items
Dinner Plate 10"
1.00
4
6
8
Price
Quantity
B & B Plate 5"
.45
4
6
8
Soup Plate .65
□
Fruit Dish
.40
4
6
8
Salad Plate .75
a
Cup
.55
4
6
8
Gravy Boat 1 .80
a
Saucer
.35
4
6
8
Butter Dish 1.60
□
Sugar
1.25
0
1
1
Salt & Pepper 1.00
a
Creamer
1.00
0
1
1
Coffee Mug .60
a
Vegetable 9"
1.35
0
0
1
Casserole 2.00
a
Chop Plate 13"
2.00
0
0
1
Open Stock Price
11.00
18.75
27.60
You Save
2.05
3.80
5.65
Special Set Price
8.95
14.95
21.95
Please send me
D sets
□ sets
□ sets
Add 21/2% sales tax for delivery in
California. Minimum order 20 pieces or
$8.95. No C.O.D. orders.
FRED L. SEYMOUR CO.
BOX
117 6
BEVERLY HILLS
CALIFORNIA
November, 1948
13
mMDAYL
F Ro«
°«N|A
14
IL/ALIFORNIA FABRIC COMPANY'S fine
"Panama Print Tropical Broadcloth'
lends its quality to enhance this PALMDAVLshir
from California, designed in ar
original print from their Floral Fantasy Group
n
u
^ikiMii
bw^fi
It's a classic PALMDAYL* blouse tailored with perfect pro
portions . . . featuring exclusive "Shoulder Pad Magic.
In variations of Red, Brown and Green on White; sizes 30 tc
40. To retail about $5.95
available with long sleeves, about $6.95
WRITE FOR THE NAME OF YOUR NEAREST STORf
<m>
PALMDAYL FROM CALIFORNIA • 525 EAST 12th STREET • LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIA!
kiiokti m ike Xmakikm . .
P A L M D A V L SHIRTS FROM CALIFORNIA
The smartly-styled shirts with exclusive
"shoulder pad magic". .. shoulder pads that need not
be removed for laundering. Give the
gift you'd love yourself!
ASK FOR THESE SHIRTS BY NAME
')kA\j HyCJtl/^ (yitCiCtA. ...... Fresh and sweet as new mown hay, in Sanforized*
gingham plaid cotton, pique yoke, rick-rack trimmed. Peter
Pan collar, full three-quarter sleeves. Choice of Red, Blue,
^T i J-ff (%?-' I or Brown combinations. Sizes 30-40. Retail about $7.95
U t-tC-f I U 1/fCtLL (y , , . , -Happy venture in originality is this short-sleeved shirt in
solid color rayon crepe, with accenting inserts of con-
trasting color. Choice of Toast, Bamboo, Aqua or Gray
(Pj^ / fry-* combinations. Sizes 30 to 40. Retail about .... $5.95
QUAIP 0OJJlJ£/t/ An exclusive PALM DAY L design from the famous Floral
I) 0 0 Fantasy Group. Created in CALIFORNIA FABRIC COM-
PANY'S "Panama Print Tropical Broadcloth" ... a holiday
blouse sensation. Gold-rimmed pearl buttons and cuff links
Choice of color combinations in Maize, Aqua, Beige and
White. Sizes 30 to 40. Retail about $7.95
*less than 1% shrinkage
WRITE FOR THE NAME OF YOUR NEAREST STORE
PALMDAYL FROM CALIFORNIA • 525 EAST 12th STREET • LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
November, 1948
15
INTRODUCING
S&int
^fc«Sr
Blue Ribbon Nominee
for Spring
1949
Destined for Stardom at your store from
now until Spring! New match-slim
"go everywhere" skirt in Burlington
Mill's fine UTOPIA Rayon Gabardine.
Smart self-locking pockets . . and side slits
for freedom. Sizes 22 tojo. GRE Y . .
BEIGE . . AQUA . . TOAST . .
KELLY . . DARK GREEN . .
BLACK . . BROWN . . NAVY.
795
In the Stores, about: 0
Henry Donath of Preview Sportswear is the only
California skirt designer to win the 1948 California
Blue Ribbon Award
"THite 2Waw" Stent S6omt &M Se 'Potutd ?4t 7^ ^oUoww? Stone*:
Swelldom Inc Los Angeles 14, California The Vogue San Antonio, Texas
The Fair Chicago, Illinois Sanger Bros Dallas, Texas
Harry Coffee . . . Bakersfield and Fresno, California California Sportswear Springfield, Illinois
South Los Angeles Street . . Los Angeles 14, California I^M^^ Cwtov
For additional stores see page 61.
16
THE CALIFORNIAN
•.':,
Fashion has a how-back bustle!
For resort and spring wear ... a sparkling
new two-piece dress in a Foreman rayon print.
White pique accent on collar and cuffs.
DESIGNED BY CHARLES SOREL.
Style #2420 — sizes 10 to 18. Gray, Toast, Navy, Black with White.
To retail about $45.
Of CAtlfO«UIA
available at following stores:
Famous Barr, St. Louis
Roos Bros., San Francisco
Daniels & Fisher, Denver
Lora Pack, Miami Beach
or write for name of store nearest you.
"Couturier Fashions Moderately Priced"
MORRIS & FYNE CORPORATION • 2100 SOUTH BROADWAY • LOS ANGELES 7, CALIFORNIA
November, 194
17
: ^s- — -■■•■•^-
^
8^
in the Brody manner, .retail $22.95
collection includes suede, faille,
velvet and satin.
620 SOUTH MAIN STREET, LOS ANGELES 14, CALIFORNIA
~Y
%K ^J
Lovely young curves for YOU in a
brassiere
Sold in better stores everywhere.
November, 1948
19
HOUSE OF MURPHY
for gourmets only
Fine food in an atmosphere
of convivial friendliness!
Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth
CR 5-0191
BR 2-3432
EVERY DAY
FROM 11:30
m
HI
VENTURA BLVD.
1 block west of
Coldwater Canyon
LA CIENEGA BLVD
1 Block north of Wilshire
i
Italian
and French
Cuisine
'VEIILEXGIA
A
PAUL
Your Host
Since 192a
u
8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
I
JWftw**-
STOLES FOR STYLE ... and for warmth,
plus beauty and fashion newness, you'll adore
these 'beautiful stoles . . . for basic daytime
dresses or evening loveliness. Entirely hand-
woven in 100% wool by Helen Douglas, with
wondrous colors: red, yellow, gold, white,
black, gray, pink, green, sage, green-blue,
bright blue, electric blue, medium blue, sky
blue, with nontarnishable metallic thread in-
terwoven in gold, silver, copper, and bright
colors. 72", $9.85 and 90" $12.35 postpaid.
2%% sales tax in California. Sorry, no
C. O. D.'s. Sold exclusively by The Van Buren
Shop, 225 Calliope, Laguna Beach, Calif.
WE'RE LOOKING OVER . . . four leaf
clovers . . . and these are the cutest good-luck
pieces we've seen. A precious set of two scatter-
pins with safety-lock catches and matching
four-leaf clover cuff links. Gold-plated with
green leaves and pearl centers. Just $3.00 for
the four-piece set, plus 20% luxury tax; 2l/2%
sales tax in California. Matching earrings,
$1.00 a pair, plus taxes. At the store in your
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846 S.
Broadway, Los Angeles 14, Calif.
YOUR OWN BODYGUARD . . . scared
of dark streets? Trust Beau Alarm! In
purse, pocket, at bedside, it means solid se-
curity against thugs or intruders. If trouble
strikes, just touch the button. Instantly Beau
Alarm's siren screams loud for over half a
minute. Marvelous for merchants, messengers
too. In ivory or maroon plastic, 11 ounces of
powerful protection . . . $12.50. Just one idea
from Gift Catalog CM-3 — free! Shipping
charges on C.O.D.'s are collect. Write Ham-
macher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th St., New
York 22, New York.
HO-GANS . . . you'll live in your Ho-Gans
as the Indians lived in hogans. Fine trim-
fitting "softie shoes" cut from a single piece of
suede, giving complete freedom of foot muscles
... so comfortable you'll forget you're wearing
them! Tie-bow or plain, women and girls;
plain, men and boys. Forest green, Sierra
blue, cherry red, burgundy or sun copper. Send
$3.95 plus 10# sales tax to Ho-Gans of Calif.,
1472 Filbert St., San Francisco. State shoe
size, color, with or without tie-bow, and your
nearest store will promptly fill orders.
BACH'S CHRISTMAS ORATORIO . . .
priceless collector's item is this record album,
sung by the famous Boys' Choir of the Church
of the Nativity in Bethlehem, Pa., America's
"Christmas City." This timely three-pocket
album of 10-inch records contains ten best-
loved chorales from the beautiful Christmas
Oratorio of Bach, and two old Moravian
hymns. You'll want it for your home, and
for your friends. Shipped anywhere in the
U. S. for $3.95, prepaid, by Huff Music Store,
526 Main Street, Bethlehem, Pa.
20
THE CALIFORNIAN
—^mn0
&hW**~
BOOKS TO LIVE BY . . . are these timely
two. How To Be The Smart Woman is an
outstanding book of suggestions on cultivating
poise, personality, charm and individuality.
The authoress, Rebecca, combines business
with beauty in lively readable fashion. $1.50
each, or four for $5.50 postpaid. The Wil-
liamsburg Calendar for Engagements and Al-
manac for 1949 is a delightful series of
Colonial illustrations, facts and fancies, com-
bined into a handy appointment book. Gift-
boxed, SI. 00 each, or six for $5.50 postpaid.
These'll make unusual Christmas gifts. Send
•order to Liza's Gift Shop, New Market, Va.
SIESTA-WEAR SLIP-ONS . . . adorable
scuffs of rich suede in wondrous colors:
Christmas red and green, rose beige, and
black. Or you may choose them in the smooth-
est glove leather, softly toned in pink, powder
blue, aqua or sunyellow. For foot comfort
and durability, they're leather throughout.
Slip-Ons come in sizes 4 through 9, N and M,
at only $4.95 plus 15c postage. Add 2l/2%
sales tax in California. And prompt delivery
for Christmas is assured by Bernadette's Shop,
Box 372, Balboa Island, Calif.
KLIP-ON LAMP ... a brand new, grand
new idea. This novel lamp clips right on your
book, where it won't interfere with turning
of pages . . . weighing less than six ounces,
it's engineered for correct light. For close
work, reading in bed, use in hotels, hospitals,
on trains, for nursery night-light, you'll find
this the most convenient lighting yet devised.
Modern design in ivory plastic, with an 8-
foot cord, it's inexpensively priced at $2.00,
postage prepaid. Send your check or money
order to Bettina Novelties, P. O. Box 3822,
Richmond Heights, Mo.
DURSTON'S HOMEMADE CANDY . . .
most delicious candy you've tasted, made by
Clifford Durston, for twenty-six years a fa-
mous Los Angeles candy maker. You'll love
the rich chocolate creams and the crisp
crunchy nut-filled delights. This variety pack
includes pecan nut, vanilla and rum creams;
nougats and almond chips; and mint dips,
toffee clusters, chewy caramels. This hand-
dipped homemade candy is sold direct from
Durston's, Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif., and
is yours for just $1.50 the pound, or $2.75
for two pounds, postage prepaid.
HOLIDAY GREETING TRIM ... is Phil
Sockett's belt for Holiday wear. You'll want
this wide suede belt with entwining all-
around scroll design to accent skirts and
blouses, to glamorize basic blacks and cock-
tail dresses, for knitwear, too. This belt, to
see you through the day and into the night,
comes in all colors of suede with gold or
silver leather trim and non-tarnishable gold
or silver-plated buckle. Sizes 24 to 32, just
$3.95. At your favorite store, or write Phil
Sockett Mfg. Co., Est. 1925, 1240 S. Main
St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
November, 1948
bin-.'"
Cd«4i"
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
£i.mas Utfts in the
\jalifornia manner
YARN DOG: This thoroughly housebroken pet,
in yarn, gazes out at you from a blonde wooden
frame. Dog is set in relief. Wonderful for den
or children's room. $5.00, postpaid.
■
';x
,
PRETZEL ANNIE: Board-based pretzel rack, guard-
ed over by the silliest horse you've ever seen.
You'll love her in your bar. $3.95, postpaid.
MING TREE: Exquisite decorate piece for your
table or what-not shelf. Ming tree and tiny
ceramic figurine. Gift boxed. $1.95, postpaid.
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOF
IANCHO SANTA Fl • CALIFORNIA
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 2J/1% sales tax.)
21.
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
Kmas uifts in the
California manner
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a
champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes with
complete directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over ony
boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid
MILK SET: Frisky ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching
mug comes with barnyard pictures. Pitcher and
mug, boxed, for $3.95, postpaid.
TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint-
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post-
age).
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 2'/j% soles fox.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
•O SANlA FE
&V8W*^
ENCHANT-TRESS . . . quick, easy and
practical for round-the-clock wear. A wonder-
ful new accessory, combination headdress and
scarf . . . ideal for outdoor activities and
dressy occasions. It's styled for six-way wear,
and you'll add your own arrangements. Me-
tallic rayon jersey, with gold in brown, green,
black, red or white; and gray with silver;
or in all colors of wool worsted jersey. Patent
applied for. A charming readymade holiday
headdress, just $3.95. At leading department
stores everywhere, or write to California Sport-
lets, 860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles
14, Calif.
HANG 'EM . . . fibre plates, hand-decorated
by the inimitable Jan. A decorative and func-
tional way to brighten that problem wall, or
use them for serving hors d'oeuvre and snacks.
You'll like the gleaming protective finish . . .
you can't tell them from your best china!
Rose or fruit design, charmingly bordered in
your color choice: red, yellow, gray, green
or blue. 9" in diameter. Set of two, $2.50 post-
paid. Same design in natural wood (without
border), set of two, $4.50 postpaid. Mail your
orders to The Purple Horse, County Road,
Kingston, Mass.
TREASURE TROVE ... a safe and beau-
tiful jewel box. Designer William Tory created
this to last a lifetime. Genuine leather in
lizard grain (red, green, wine, blue, brown)
or alligator grain (brown, navy, blue, black).
Luxuriously lined with velvet, equipped with
handy self-rising tray and solid brass set-in
lock and key. It's large— 10>/2"x7y2"x4"—
with aluminum frame and sides for durability.
A precious holder for jewels ... a smart ac-
cessory for luggage ... an ideal gift. $7.95
postpaid. Order it from Fred L. Seymour Co.,
Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
CANDLE HOLDER ... an imported China
saucer hand-painted in beautiful floral de-
signs combines as a tray with a fine brass
fixture into this most unusual, yet practical
candlestick holder. You'll find it useful as
combination cigarette holder and ash tray,
too. The 5V2" saucer is hand-painted to your
order in rose, wild rose, violet or daisy de-
signs with pastel backgrounds of yellow, blue,
green or pink. A welcome gift at $7.95, plus
35c postage. (A list of other hand-painted
items sent upon request). Web China Studio,
2707 Boardwalk, Atlantic City, N. J.
RECIPE FRAKTURS . . . you'll want to
brighten your kitchen or dining room walls
with these cheerful Pennsylvania Dutch Recipe
Frakturs. Decorative and practical with de-
licious easy-to-follow recipes, this portfolio
of eight gaily colored sheets combines au-
thentic Pennsylvania Dutch artistry with novel
recipes — shoo-fly pie, apple strudel, and
schnitz un knepp are included — from the !
best Dutch cooks. Each sheet is sized ap-
proximately ll"xl6". An unusual and dis-
tinctive gift for the lovers of American heritage
everywhere. Send $3.00, check or money or-
der, postage prepaid, to Adele H. Hershey,
R. F. D. 3, Hamburg, Pa.
22
THE CALIFORNIAN
BABY BUCKSKINS . . . these shoes for
the wee ones are the most adorable we've
seen. Original in design, they're entirely hand-
made of soft durable Fawn-Tan Buckskin,
stitched with sturdy linen thread . . . styled
for comfort and freedom. Pediatricians ap-
prove— and the flexible sole aids first walkers.
Sizes 1 (6-9 mos.), 2 (9 mos.-l yr.), 3 (1-2
yrs.), 4 (2-3 yrs.). A precious gift at just
$2.95 postpaid, plus 7c tax in California.
Send check or money order along with baby's
I size to The Little Leather Shop, Box 1168,
Carmel-by-the-Sea, Calif.
POUBS LIKE A BOTTLE ... the perfect
gift for him. Watch his f: 5 light up when
he discovers it's the smartest, easiest-to-use
cocktail shaker at any price; plus "doubling
in brass" as a bottle protector (will hold a
standard shape liquor bottle when traveling).
100% stainless steel — shaped like a bottle —
pours like a bottle — breaks open at shoulder
for convenient uses — has removable strainer,
and the cap is a jigger. Deluxe model avail-
able, $10.00 postpaid, Southern Comfort Corp.,
2121 Olive St., St. Louis 3, Missouri.
JEWELED CLOX . . . Willys of Hollywood
presents exquisite hosiery designed for the
cocktail hour and evening wear. Featuring
rhinestone jewels, seed pearls or beaded
clocks on the outside of each stocking ... 15
or 20 denier Dupont nylon . . . with or with-
out seams. Sheer splendor, in exciting shades:
smokecloud, autumn brown, bronze tone, gun-
metal, navy, black, greeen envy, Bermudana,
negrita. Sizes 8 to 11, made to order. S7.95 a
pair, at May Company Wilshire, Los Angeles:
B. Altman, New York; Carson, Pirie, Scott,
Chicago. Or write Willys of Hollvwood. 1141
N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
j COOK ON THE PIANO ... the luxurious
| all-electric stainless steel Barbecue Rotis-
i serie eliminates uncertainty, smoke and dirt
of the conventional barbecue. Yet Rotisserie-
cooked meats taste better, the flavor is sealed
in, the juice retained. Try your turkeys,
I roasts, steaks the Barbecue Rotisserie way.
So clean and easy to use that you can ac-
tually "cook it on the piano" . . . you'll love
it for indoors and outdoors. Custom built,
fully guaranteed. S194.25, including taxes,
shipped via express collect. Write for booklet.
Gourmet, 355 Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills,
Calif.
HOLLYHAVEN HOLLY . . . world's most
luxurious are these deep green wax-like leaves,
loaded with ruby-red berries. Selected from
the finest English Holly trees, a wealth of
sprays in all sizes are moisture-packed to
arrive tree-fresh. Beautifully styled packages
(enclosing the original Holly-haven styling
folder) come in two sizes: Friendship Box.
$4; Deluxe Bushel Box (shown) $10. Send
check or money order for postpaid delivery
anywhere in the U. S. These are most ap-
preciated gifts. Place your order now, or
send for literature to George Weber of Hollv-
haven, Dept. H, P. O. Box 176, Seattle 11,
Wash.
November, 1948
"
fffllMUfM
something new
in footwear
;:
;CoLton
-)jtC<-0"o,,
feath'erwedge"
jet
So light, you walk
on a cloud . . . and
so flattering, you want to wear it with
all your costumes. Choice of suede or
calf, in fall shades you'll love. Sizes
3 to 10 in all widths. To retail about
$10.95.
Write us for nearest store
H^ic (LoitorL- SHOE fflPG.-
3665 Whitlier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif.
23
lazing New San Fernando Valley
• 0?
AUTHENTIC
MOCCASINS
Luxurioub, sort suede cunningly hand-laced with snow-
white real leather to upper of genuine unborn calf-
skin which retains nature's colors and the silken hair.
For rugged street or sports wear! Harold's of Holly-
wood's renowned styling! Amazing value! You'd say
$8,501 BUT— direct by mail— only $+.98! Your
choice of the season's preferred colors: GREEN, RED,
GRAY, BROWN. Sizes 3^ to 10. State 2nd choice
color.
Fit Guaranteed! Money Back Guarantee!
Order By Mall Now from Hollywood
SEND NO MONEY !
HAROLD'S OF HOLLYWOOD— Dept. 300
Box 611, West Branch, Hollywood 46, Calif.
Rush me my lovable "Ponies."
Size 1st Choice Color 2nd Choice
I will pay postman $4.98, plus postage and
C.O.D. charges.
Name
Address..
City.
State
..Zone
CALIFORNIA COOKS
CALIFORNIA COOKS
WITH the golden fruits of California,
with the delicacies that are available
in your own home town! Helen Evans
Brown's famous cook book, California
Cooks, contains more than 100 unusual
California recipes . . menus galore!
Write for Your Copy Today!
COOKING for your family and friends
is easy . . and fun . . when you have
such wonderful, unusual recipes. CALI-
FORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep
in your kitchen . . it suggests the
proper menu, the exciting dish . . at
just the right time. It's a practical and
appreciated gift.
AND California Cooks comes to you,
postpaid, for only 50 cents!
Write for Your Copy Today!
JUST SEND 50 cents for each copy,
your name and address to
THE CALIFORNIA
1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15.
Enclose money — Harold's 'will pay all postage jj
&
L
HELLO! I'M SUEDEBISCUIT . . . per-
fect companion for little boys and girls . . .
grown-ups like this adorable horse, too, for
den, bar and bedroom . . . the grandest
Christmas present possible. 14" long, 10%"
tall, of the finest quality suede, with brilliant
grained eyes. The insides are soft cotton —
no wires or hard pieces to harm the little
ones. Whiskbroom brushing keeps him clean.
In tan suede with bright trimmings, Suede-
biscuit is $5.00, postage prepaid. Add 2l/2%
sales tax for Californians, and order from
Suedecraft Novelties, Dept. VS, Box #7158.
Los Angeles 37, Calif.
LITTLE BUCKAROO CHUCK SET . . .
the kiddies will love their grub when it's
served in this three-piece cowboy set . . .
there's a 9" plate, 5%" cereal bowl, and cup.
Events of a Western rodeo are colorfully de-
picted, with designs by Tillman Goodan,
famous cowboy artist. This ware is as sturdy
as the characters it portrays, being done on
heavy vitrified china with designs fired under
glaze. Saddle tan background with brown
colors. Attractively gift-boxed, $4.95, express
charges collect. Sorry, no C. O. D.'s. Totman's,
12 N. Main St., Sheridan, Wyo.
UNIQUE ... a special edition of your [I
caricature, cleverly drawn and beautifully
engraved as the back design on the finest Cel-
U-Tone playing cards in a suede box. These •
charming Caricards are deftly drawn by lead-
ing American artists from your photo (at I
your hobby if desired ) . . . distinctive for :
entertaining, a delightful gift. 2 deck set li>
$11.60; 4 for $17; 6 for $21; or 12 for $28.
If desired, your favorite photo (any size)
reproduced as back design — deduct $3. All I
photos returned. Send check or money order
to Robinson-Sherman Playing Cards, Grand I
Central Sta. Box 169, Dept. C, New York 17,
New York.
VALET RACK ... to keep his clothes in
apple-pie order. This useful rack holds his
suit, tie, shirt, underwear, socks and shoes in
perfect readiness . . . bachelor, husband,
father, brother or beau will love this handy
Valet Rack. Mahogany, walnut, maple or
blond finish. $11.95, express collect (weight,
10 lbs.). Lewis & Conger, Avenue of Americas
at 45th St., New York 19, New York. Their I
illustrated Christmas Catalog, by the way,
has hundreds of good gift ideas. Ask for
Catalog CA 11; it's free.
SPATTER SHIELD . . . here's a wonderful
innovation for cooking pleasure. An enter-
prising housewife designed this Spatter Shield
to keep her stove and walls clean by shielding
them from cooking grease and spatters. Now
it's available to all of us. A "kitchen must"
to enjoy spotless kitchens and yet fry chicken,
steaks, chops and fish crisply in the open
... it fits neatly around sides and back of
any skillet, folds into a small flat package
for easy storage. A real buy at $1.00 post-
paid. Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Bev-
erly Hills, Calif.
24
THE CALIFORNIAN
I— «WJ1
»»—
BUY OF THE YEAR ... is this low-
priced luxurious hat and bag set — both Calve
originals — of rich imported suede. The beret
is smartly styled for many-way wear, and the
huge "Feed Bag" is taffeta lined and 12"
deep. A beautiful suede set to accessorize
your suits and coats, in red, brown, gray, yel-
low, cinnamon, green, coffee black or royal
blue. Beret sizes 21-2114-22-22^-23. Just $16.50
for both beret and bag, including excise, plus
25c for mailing. (214% sales tax for Califor-
nians). Send your color choice and hat size
with check or money order to Calve, 655 S.
Shatto PI., Los Angeles 5, Calif.
SEE BETTER. . . says this gift. With this
beautiful new type of magnifying glass, you
lean give friends "seeing comfort" for years to
come . . . you can read newspaper print a
I column at a time, for the 3x/4" lens provides
I a large, sharp field of vision. Longview magni-
Ifies 2l/2 times, folds into a handsome plastic
handle. You'll be proud to give, or own, a
J Longview. Packed in a gift box, $6.50 postpaid.
If not completely satisfied after 10-day trial,
money will be refunded. Edroy Products Co.,
iDept. A, 480 Lexington Ave., New York 17,
New York.
CHAMISMOOTH ... the set your man will
love. After-shave lotion and cologne of excep-
tional quality, with a scent to appeal to the
masculine and feminine tastes. Trimmed with
bright suede pom poms, these patented bot-
tles are of fine porcelain china. You'll want to
I utilize them as beautiful bud vases, or filled
with sand as bookends and paperweights. This
exquisite Chamismooth set is $10 including
all taxes and postage. Order it from Chami-
smooth Products, Dept. AC, Box 7158, Los
Angeles 37, Calif.
SU-Z BABY GIRDLE . . . smoothest fit
ting, most comfy panty-girdle ever designed.
Power-net nylon with nylon thread through-
1 out, it fits by weight any gal from 95 pounds
I to 150. Advantages include: fast drying (4
< hours) ; all elastic nylon garters detach for
1 wear with shorts; special fitting can't roll or
, slide. To smooth hips and thighs, keep tummy
i controlled, order Baby Girdle ... it fits
1 like second skin, stays c-o-o-1. Step-in or pantie
style. (Photoed by Lee Angle). Send meas-
urements of your waist, tummy, thigh and
overall weight to Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon, Los
Angeles 43. In white, postpaid, just $10.95.
DOG LEASH BELT . . . California's in
terpretation of the popular Dog Leash Belt
is this clever one with a Yo-Yo that's in non-
tarnishable gold . . . and it really works!
Another famous Film Star Creation is this
adjustable suede belt, sturdy enough for wear
on coats, wonderful for accent on skirts and
dresses. In your choice of black, brown, red
or green, sizes 24 to 36, priced at $2.95. Please
add 2!/2% sales tax in California, and send
your order to Hale's Grant Avenue, Acces-
sories, 125 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, Calif.
November, 1948
TW rWECT GIFT
Twelve Times a Year!
This beautiful card
goes with each new
Calif ornian
Bells ring ! Birds sing
. . in the hearts of your
friends when they re-
ceive the colorful Cali-
fornian Magazine. The
perfect gift . . an inex-
pensive one . . that re-
members you every
month during the
whole new year !
It's smart to give a gift subscription to The Califor-
nian Magazine. The smartest people do. And our
artists have designed this beautiful California Christ-
mas card to go in separate envelope to each recipi-
ent you designate. Your subscription, new or re-
newal, is only S3 a year. And for your friends you
may send each one The Californian for only $2 . .
complete with the handsome gift card. It"- a bar-
gain in good taste and new interest in the California
Way of Life. The latest fashions from California's
top designers, the most exiting features about Cali-
fornia, the most intriguing of California's beautiful
homes, the choicest recipes from a galaxy of Cali-
fornia chefs. Fill out the Special Christmas Gift
Order attached to this magazine, or tell us your
Christmas wishes below.
Remember ! One year subscription $3.00 ; each
additional subscription S2.00; (add S1.00 for Can-
ada and foreign postage) .
Please send THE CALIFORNIAN with special
Christmas greeting card announcing the gift
subscription to:
Name
Address
City
Zone
State
Name
Address
Please
one ye
D for
City Zone
enter my own subscri
ar. Payment enclosed
all special Christmas
State
[Minn order
□ or send
gift orders
for
bill
to:
Name
Address
City
Zone
State
25
■amwid'
,
<4 / ___ j
''■:' '■ ' inK
UaF
^1
\^x
$d)Mc'£&l&fyait&.
§f \AWGIJVES
This bronze shieW is proudly
displayed by more than 4000
fine jewelers, coast to coast
In gold-filled cases, $39.75 fo $59.50
With bracelets, slightly higher
In taxes of 14K gold, $59.50 to $71.50
Diamond Princess Watches, $71.50
Illustrated: A. Golden Princess, $59.50
0. Wendell, $39.75 Prices inc. Fed. Tax
'fif/fy/A
r&y^TMfW'A
,'>//y/w//w//vW/'/S/ w* vi
A hundred and one superiorities of construction and
finish distinguish Wittnauer watch movements. Wittnauer
watch cases are of the finest quality and manufacture—
equal in every respect to those used in the highest
priced watches. Longines -Wittnauer has applied the
skill and experience of 82 years of fine craftsmanship
to make Wittnauer, in its class, the world's best watch.
Listen to the Wittnauer "Festival of Song" every Sunday, C. B. S. Network, 2-2:30 P. M., E. S. T.
y.
«* •»#*'*
r
Alice in
California's Wonderland
. . . let's pretend, with childhood's beloved char-
acter, that we're in Looking Glass room ( reason
enough to remind you again that the mirror is
your only infallible guide to good fashion, re-
flection of your own good taste). Here is a
wonderland of dream gowns and fancies for
holiday wearing, and giving. Here's talk of
cabbages and kings . . . here's fantasy and en-
chantment that belongs to the Christmas season.
FOR QUEEN OF HEARTS OR WHITE QUEEN
LINGERIE, WONDERFUL to give, to have . . . below, left, Swiss-embroidered peignoir and gown
of crepe-back satin, by Fia. About $60 at Carson's, Chicago; Harzfeld's, Kansas City.
Below, right, Talia's empire gown of satin, matching sheer negligee, about $39.95.
Opposite page, Juel Park's nylon chiffon and crepe confection, custom-made.
BERYL AND RENE
vY ;,
/■•• ' r\
rx r
21
*'« ■ ;»
%
'i"A& 'J
.ft
^ *3N
Vl>
*c
■^rrf jiH ^
BERYL AND RENE
»■• < * '
>
DREAMY DRAMA . . . these are the looking-glass perfections you can
give with pride: above, warm cutaway coat with slim jim trousers of faille:
Hollywood Premiere, about $25 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles ; City of
Paris, San Francisco. Left, quaintly sweet peignoir over multi-filament
crepe gown, by Pandora. About $23 the set. Opposite page, Addie Master's
delectable Sanchilla crepe lounge pajamas, cut full as a skirt, with subtle
combination of colors. About $45 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles;
Carson's, Chicago ; Filene's, Boston.
.*>■' ■
GLEAM OF GOLD accents holiday mood in Celanese jersey hostess gown: Remle of California.
In black or colors. In sizes 10 to 20 about $30 at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco;
The Bon Marche, Seattle; and Myer Siegel, Los Angeles.
32
BLACK WITCHERY of Alencon-type lace yoke on triple-sheer
Dream-Glo fabric. Lady Helen of California. About $15 at
Buffums', Long Beach ; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Halle Bros., Cleveland ;
J. L. Hudson, Detroit.
"*"
LEE WEBER
For Christmas Shine
and Holiday Fun
IRIDESCENT taffeta is your bright idea for
the holiday whirl : Emma Domb's romantic
dance frock with tiers of ruffles and an elegant
bustle bow, sizes 10 to 16, about $40 at The
Emporium, San Francisco ; Hecht Co., Wash-
ington, D. C. ; Halle Bros, Cleveland.
YOU'LL NEED all your glamour for
jfy«
social season ahead ! For important occasions,
Louella Ballerino's evening suit in gleaming
satin, left ... or, below, Marbert's figure-mold-
ing crepe gown with sparkle of sequins in front.
hKANK => I Ifl-Lth
• CHRISTMAS BELLE : Peggy Hunt's lace gown with
gold sparkles, about $110 at L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis.
HOLIDAY WHIRL: Max Kopp's taffeta dress, above,
about $30 at May Co., Los Angeles; Jack Rose, Santa
Barbara.
GALA GOWN: Robert Gould's slipper satin, right,
about $35 at City of Paris, San Francisco; Halle Bros.,
Cleveland ; Meier & Frank, Portland. -^-
•■>.
37
PRETTIEST DRESSES for party fun at Christmas,
above, Picture Modes taffeta 'n net, with a huge bow
and bouquet of flowers for "back interest" ;
left above, plaid taffeta with velveteen bodice
from Little & Martin . . . and just to the left,
velveteen pinafore with crisp little blouse : Juniors, Inc.
38
Jean Durain. who inspires love letters from the youngest
set. ties up a holiday offering in Christmas red. Left, navy dotted Swiss and organdy
pinafore, sizes 1-3. retails at S8.95; 3-6, $9.95; 7-10, $10.95. Alice-in-Wonderland
frock of navy blue cotton with detachable broadcloth apron, $9.95, $10.95 and
$11.95. Bottom, white only, broadcloth pinafore, sizes 1-6. $5.95; 7-10. $6.95.
39
Q
O
O
Danny Kaye,
Rosalind Russell,
John Farrell and
Louella Parsons
►-3
-
O
W
•
o
H
QO
Edgar Bergen
w
and Columnist,
Harrv Crocker.
o
D
o
w
the medicine man
Bob Hope,
a man's man
for wrestler
'Gorgeous George"
Hollywood has a heart . . you could hear its exciting
tempo from coast to coast when a hundred or more of the
brightest stars helped Ringling Bros.-Barnum & Bailey
present the "greatest show on earth" to benefit St. John's
Hospital in Santa Monica. More Hollywood luminaries
and Southern California society bought $100 seats, con-
tributed $175,000 toward a projected new hospital wing.
Cheering thousands saw Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra
as clowns, Greer Garson, Virginia Mayo and Margaret
O'Brien ride elephants, Ronald Reagan, Robert Preston.
Edgar Bergen and Keenan Wynn as barkers, and a gigan-
tic pageant with Irene Dunne, Virginia Bruce, Lucille
Ball, Ray Milland, Alan Ladd, Betty Grable, Robert Cum-
mings and a dozen more. Bob Hope and Burt Lancaster
were teamed with wrestler "Gorgeous George;" Danny
Kaye was an acrobat, Kay Kyser was ringleader, Barbara
Stanwyck and Claudette Colbert were side saddle eques-
trians; Gregory Peck, Gary Cooper and Van Johnson
were almost unrecognizable as clowns. Even "Lassie"
was there. Starlets and models sold peanuts and pro-
grams. Wardrobe women, electricians, stagehands had
volunteered their help.
It was a night to remember . . when the last elephant
had tromped away.
■■
BERYL AND RENE
A WHITE BLOUSE, PLEASE . . . you'll want at least one pure white blouse with its inimitable flattery,
its go-with-anything air! Palmdayl has two new ideas for Christmas giving (or year-round wearing) :
Left, "Dandy", about $11; right, "Showboat", about $10... each with brocaded broadcloth. For stores, see page 60.
41
LOUSE
BEAUTIFUL
GRAFF, about $4 each
42
CAROL WEST OF CALIFORNIA, about $8 PATTY WOODARD, under $15
TAILOR MAID, under $15 ARLENE OF HOLLYWOOD, about $4
43
f .'•' -1
./
,k*'~
*
&
the news is in
PRINT
Now it's time for prints ... to wear
under furs, to brighten your holi-
day, to hurry the spring! Marbert
originals, left to right, shirred Co-
hama rayon crepe, under $40. Cas-
ual shirtmaker, Robaix print, about
$35. Dress-and-jacket wardrobe
"must", about $50. Parade of pol-
ka dots, California Fabric, under
$30. All at Best's Apparel, Inc.,
Seattle ; Roos Bros., San Francisco ;
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles.
» • • • * •
t* J*
aa
«tv;v
>«•• • • • • t
.;••••
,.*••» , .#, •'•«,»»>
^...''♦♦•••••'••••♦•.V .:•*';
,...•*•*♦••'..•«*»• •%, *••'••..« ••••••• #.;,
t » * a
,t •••....
,. « * * • ••••*.
*.*..*** *•*•.*!!!!
" ,
m
.:•••
REVERSIBLE FABRIC
Showing
construction of
skirt & under-skirt
waist-band
(of skirt)
your own waist
measure
Gather skirt
bottom Into
slip and finish
with seam-blndin{
Slip waist* band
with draw-string
Under-skirt
(on drawstring)
dropped to,
hip position;
Evening Length
46
FOR DOUBLE GLAMOUR
Holiday hints to brighten your wardrobe,
by Alary Wills, Samuel Goldwyn studio designer
Opposite page, Ferney's metallic faille,
bright color flashing through from
reverse side : 40" wide, $2.65 per yard.
Pocket or belt can be beaded or touched
with sequins. Inset, simply-wonderful
skirt, easily made: shirr length of
fabric on shorter underskirt which
may be tied at waist or hips to
regulate length! This page, bows,
collars, weskits, bibs, evening
coat, cape; Ferney's reversible
taffeta, 40" wide, $4.95 per yard
. . . use dot or striped side!
Glamour hints from the studio,
for you or your dressmaker to try!
/ ***• - MM
" ill
COMMUTER'S SUIT . . . experienced traveler's choice for steamer or yacht,
or for early resort wear . . . and perfect summer standby later. Bright color
contrasts with winter white, beige or gray Reltex fabric, sizes 9-17, 10-18.
Mix matchable colors, from Miss Hollywood Jr., about $25. For stores, please see page 64.
48
BERYL AND RENE
NAUTICAL COORDINATES . . . wonderful play-mates in kelly, cinnamon, white or red
butcher linen, a Brighton fabric. From Monroe Lloyd's luxury liner collection
by Waldo. Sizes 9-15, 10-16. Midriff, about $5; kneelers, about $8;
sailor-maid middy and skirt, about $23 ; shorts, about $5. For stores, page 64.
49
Smooth
Figure-ing
■^- Fashioned to please
the stars, and lithe young
Californians . . these bras
and girdles help you cut a
pretty figure! Sho-Form's
stitched strapless bra,
with Damsel of Holly-
wood's leno-satin paneled
girdle, left. Center, up-
lift bra, Cordelia of Hol-
lywood. Tre-Zur's new
adventure bra, plastic
shelf removable for laun-
dering, bcloiu. Long line
bra, this page above ^
right, by Anne Alt. Cen-
ter, power lace girdle,
detachable crotch, Beverly
Vogue. Lower right, satin
bra, center zipper, power
lace girdle, Sidley Co.
Loicer left, evening bra
by Helene of Hollywood.
r
h
MM, ERE WE GO AGAIN,
JE %^/ dusting off our Christ-
mas Spirit and remem-
bering the promise we
made to ourselves last
year . . the promise that this year we
would positively get things done early
so that, come December 24, we'd have
strength enough to drink a toast to
Santa Claus. So we go about it. We
either call a personal shopping service
and have them do the job (How im-
personal can we be?), or we buck the crowds and
find just the right gift for everyone at a price we
can afford, or we get smart and make our own
gifts of food . . custom-made gifts to delight each
and every palate on your list. If visions of sugar
plums now dance through your head, you're not
seeing the same things I see. And I don't see glaceed
lovely Christmas packages can be the product of your ingem
tainer doesn't boast a cover of its own, give it
of aluminum foil or parchment paper, tied d<
tight, or cover it with paraffin and colored c<
phane.
California Walnut Cheese
Grate two pounds of a rich well-aged Chec tj
cheese and mix it with half-pound of butter ,
a teaspoon of prepared mustard. When smi
and creamy (use the electric mixer if you 1
one), mix in a cup of finely chopped wall
Pack tightly in the chosen containers.
Herb Cheese
Mix two pounds of grated New York or T
consin Cheddar with a half pound of butte
cup of cream, a cup and a half of Sherry, a
spoon of salt and a quarter-cup of chopped f
tarragon, chives, parsley and thyme. (This is
viously for those of you who grow your
CALIFORNIA GOOKS
BY HELEN EVANS BROWN
fruits. They are tricky to make but easy to buy . .
particularly in California around Christmas time.
I don't see fruit cakes, either. Nearly everyone can
make them and nearly everyone does. What I do
see is an array of fascinating and exciting comes-
tibles, foods that only you would think of making.
Pots of exquisitely flavored cheese for the old
dear who has everything; a jar of chutney for the
gal who dotes on curries ; gaily decorated Christmas
tree cookies for the many children on your list;
herb vinegars for the man who fancies himself a
gourmet.
Let's start with cheese mixtures. They're easy
and inexpensive to make and they may be packed
in dozens of amusing ways. Get busy with a pan
of bright paint or some red nail polish and do up
the tops of discarded cold cream jars . . or any
other screw-top jars for that matter. Or use in-
expensive Mexican pcttery bowls, with or without
covers, or small refrigerator dishes, or Chinese
tea cups, or individual oven-proof glassware.
There's no end to packaging ideas. Use a cup and
saucer, a beer mug, an antique toothpick holder,
a flower vase from the five-and-dime. If the con-
on
nil
is
i
m
herbs). Cook in a double boiler, very slolf
and stirring constantly. When the cheese is cren;
and smooth, it's ready to put in containers.
Cheddar Cheese With Rum
Mix three pounds of old Cheddar cheese
a half-pound of butter and a half-cup of Jan
rum (or Sherry). Cream well before packir
Bleu Cheese With Brandy
Mix three pounds of rich bleu cheese wit|
half-pound of butter and a half-cup of Port,
until completely blended before packing.
Herb vinegars, so expensive in the stores,
be made at home. And you don't need an
garden for these . . dried herbs may be iS
dried herbs which are less expensive if purchieoi
in bulk from Italian or Mexican markets, ./feo.ft
vinegars, even wine vinegars, are not costl if
bought by the gallon. Here again you can Kp
fun with the containers. Bottle caps can be pai:ed
or you can use inexpensive decanters or era*
Or buy chemists' flasks, wind the necks with ria.
and stopper with corks that have been tojM'
with blobs of sealing wax.
deliciously flavored cheeses and herb vinegars make exciting j is
th these recipes Christmas !§ivinj| is simplified . . personal
msalito Herb Vinegar
;at a gallon of vinegar as above. Pour it over
e ounce each of tarragon and parsley, and a
lf-ounce each of mint and thyme. Ripen and
ttle as above.
idi Salad Vinegar
se red wine vinegar for this . . a gallon of it
th two ounces of mint, three ounces of tarragon,
ght whole cloves, four crushed bay leaves, a
>zen cloves of garlic, and two hot red peppers
the little ones. Allow to stand four days before
raining and bottling.
Chutney is definitely in the luxury class when
s bought at fancy food emporiums. The best
nd comes from India and is made from exotic
uits like mangoes, tamarinds, and such. That's
hy it's cheering to know that very delicious
rutney can be made right here in California from
:ars and apples. This first recipe calls for green
inger, which is easy enough for anyone who lives
ear a Chinatown, but if that's out you can still
ake a chutney . . from the second recipe using
owdered ginger.
'rivate Brown's Chutney
ook together a quart of cider vinegar, two and a
Tt alf cups of granulated sugar, a half-pound of
;edless raisins, six pounds of peeled and quar-
:red green apples, a quarter-pound of garlic,
Jeeled and cut in minute splinters, a pound of
reen ginger which has been blanched, peeled, and
ut in slivers, six red chili peppers which have
1 een peeled and also cut into tiny slivers (To peel :
old them over a flame to blister, then wrap in
iaper for ten minutes to sweat, and then scrape
ff the thin tough outer skin), one tablespoon of
/hole mustard seed, one-half to one teaspoon of
jayenne (like it hot?), and two tablespoons of
alt. Watch this while it simmers slowly, stirring
iften. When the apples have cooked to a trans-
ient mush, and the ginger is tender, add the
•ears, six pounds of them. They must be just as
lard and green as you can find, and they must be
>eeled and cut into long thin strips, in imitation
if the pieces of mango in the importation. Cook
until the pears are transparent, but not a minute
. longer. The pears, in pinch hitting for the mangoes,
must remain whole, for they give the proper con-
sistency to the chutney . . it is the other ingredi-
mts that give that characteristic flavor.
and real
Apple Chutney
This chutney is quite different from the one
above because the ingredients are chopped . . it's
really almost a chutney catsup. Peel eight pounds
of green apples and two pounds of onions and
chop them fine. Add a pound of seeded raisins
that have been put through the food chopper,
four cups of cider vinegar, two cups of brown
sugar, six tablespoons of ground ginger, two ta-
blespoons of minced garlic, a half-cup of salt,
and some cayenne . . the dash to suit your palate.
Boil this slowly and carefully until it's soft. Pour
into sterilized jars and seal.
If you want to give more than a jar of chutney
as a gift, why not make up a little gift package
for the curry lover? A jar of curry powder, a pack-
age of converted rice, the chutney, some nuts
to serve as a condiment . . even some Bombay
duck or dried shrimps or toasted cocoanut. Do it
all up in a piece of India print or in a cotton
with a Javanese-looking design, or pack it in an
inexpensive basket.
The next recipe is actually a pickled onion,
but don't let that stop you . . it's like nothing you
ever tasted before.
Onions in Wine Sauce a la Sylvaner
Cover two quarts of small white pickling onicns
with boiling water and allow to stand for fifteen
minutes. Drain, remove skins but don't cut. just
scrape the root ends. (There's reason for all this
monkey business: the scalding will save you from
tears, the scraping will save the onion from com-
ing apart at the seams.) Cover the peeled onions
with a bottle (4/5 quart) of white wine and a cup
of white wine vinegar. Add a half-can of Italian
tomato paste, a quarter-cup of olive (or salad I
oil, a quarter-cup of sugar, a cup of bleached
seedless raisins, two tablespoons of salt, and a little
cheesecloth bag containing four cloves, four pep-
percorns, a pod of red pepper, and five sprigs cf
thyme. Cook slowly until the onions are just tender
and the sauce thickened and topaz color. (If the
onions cook too quickly, reduce the sauce separate-
ly.) Put into sterilized jars and seal while hot.
Tired? Better not be. When your December
Californian arrives, and you see all the plans I've
made for your Christmas tree cookies, you'll see
what I mean !
pert bows and j§ay ribbons enhance the finest expression of the day
%
.*&&-
it's holiday time
and g§ood cooks
can make a
Christmas merry !
THE CALIFORNIAN HOUSE
"It's a dream house of realistic people who want pleasant
living in a contemporary atmosphere . . created for good
taste."
That's how Paul Laszlo, internationally famous designer,
describes The Californian House he has created to congeal
your suggestions and requests. The Californian House, spon-
sored by The Californian Magazine, is a dream come true if
your letters are the wishful criterion of today. Situated
at 1041 Ravoli Drive in picturesque Brentwood, the house
in construction embodies the desires of the majority of you
who want to live "the California Way."
Roomy, yet compact, its cne story contains approximately
1800 square feet, 440 more go into the two-car garage, 776
for roofed terraces. There are two light and airy bedrooms,
a charming den, two baths, living room and dining room,
which is a part of the living area, children's indoor play
area, kitchen, fireplace, barbecue and patio. Even a built-in
safe, which was the clever suggestion of Perdita Ritchie of
Cold Spring. Kentucky.
Facing the hills and ocean on the former Will Rogers
Estate, The Californian House is a livable, comfortable home.
Nearly all of you wanted plenty of room with minimum up-
keep; built-in features to lighten house work. The Californian
House is set back from the street to afford privacy, with a
drive right to the door. Large windows facing the ocean and
the hills actually give it two beautiful fronts. You'll find
forced air unit heating with summer ventilation, a glass case
between dining area and kitchen for easy serving and easy
storage; combination dressing room and bathroom, protected
outdoor dining area . . even a telephone connection at the
barbecue. These are just a few of the Paul Laszlo execu-
tions of your idea.
Soon The Californian House will be ready to visit and
view. An early issue of The Californian Magazine will an-
nounce the premiere and present a complete illustrated story
of the house you wanted and conceived. With this floor
plan and these designer ideas, you can live graciously, com-
fortably and luxuriously in The California Way of Life . .
wherever you may be.
54
paul laszlo creates the
California dream house in
beautiful brentwood
for your contemporary mood
Unique floor plan of one-slory construction embodies the features you
wanted . . two bedrooms and den, children's indoor play area, roomy
kitchen with light and air, large living area combined with dining
room, fireplace, barbecue, and an unsurpassed view of ocean and hills
L.UL
A MAN LIKES
HIS LEATHER
Somehow, fine leather becomes' intimate
with a man the minute it becomes his
His belt that is rubbed to a sheen, his
wallet that's usually overstuffed, even
the worn tobacco pouch that he drags
out at the most embarassing moments,
reflect more of the man than anything
else in his wardrobe. Leather is a man's
fabric ... it becomes him as no other
fabric does.
That's what makes suede the perfect
Christmas gift for a man. He takes to
it instinctively. It becomes his pet, and
like this jacket, he wears it whenever
the opportunity presents itself.
That, too, is what makes these two
suede jackets so versatile. They fit into
the mood, anyplace, anytime. A jacket
for him and a cardigan for his son;
both of sheer, soft suede, tailored with
the fine tailoring detail that character-
izes every California Sportwear item.
Sheer suede, so soft it feels like a
fabric, so durable that it becomes more
wearable as the years go by, is the latest
development of the Golden West. This
Californian knows how to wear it, and
his son emulates his father's good taste.
He combines his jacket with gabardine
sport shirt, flannel slacks and soft com-
fortable shoes. A "natural" sportswear
outfit, simple but in good taste. Perfect
for a cool fall or a cold winter's wear.
The man's jacket is the "Elegante" model by
CALIFORNIA SPORTWEAR. It has a three-button
front, tie-belt, king-size pockets with flaps. In
stone and chamois-colored sheer suede. About
$62.50. The boy's three-button suede cardigan is
the "Kid Coronado." And its leather buttons have
gold rims. In sand color only. About $17.95.
/"•Y
Lithographs and
Audubon prints are
grouped at two
levels of stairs in
Max Factor's home
Do the pictures on your walls lead lives of their own,
isolated by lonely placement, lack of personality, or
are they arranged and framed thoughtfully to drama-
|ize and harmonize with their backgrounds and other fur-
lishings? In picture placement, as in all home decorating,
here are traditional and contemporary fashions; conventional
md original arrangements. In California, today, the trend
s toward wall treatments as colorful and unregimented as
arefree outdoor living.
Decorator Dick Turpin did two separate groupings of pic-
ures to dramatize the lower and upper staircase walls at
:he Beverly Hills home of Max Factor, Jr., providing an in-
:eresting view, from above and below, but neither intrudes
Dn the other since you can see only one grouping at a time.
On the lower wall, visible from entrance hall, ten original
lithographs are combined in stepped lines which parallel the
rise of the stairsteps. Mounted on yellow mats, their narrow
mahogany frames accent the contrast with light coral walls,
gray chenille carpeting, and an off-gray shadow box win-
dow treatment at the turn of the stairs.
In the upper hall,
shadow box frames of
more of the mahogany,
to match the balustrade
tail, enclose the Audu-
jbon prints, vividly fleck-
jed with red, green, yel-
uow and chartreuse. The
,'prints flank a large Eng-
lish garden scene, and
Jare arranged in diagonal
line to support and draw
attention to the master
picture.
At the home of Mr. and
Mrs. Davis Factor, six
matched round - framed
family portraits, with
deep turquoise mats,
Stand out against the wall Family portraits add interest to fireside
above the fireplace. wall i„ this beautiful Beverly Hills home
at PALM SPRINGS for the patio
at BAR HARBOR for the den
at MIAMI for yachting
at SOLDIERS* F1ELB for football
at SUN VALLEY for winter sports
. . . wherever smart people gather you'll see the California
Robette . . . the lightweight 100% virgin Wool blanket for casual
living. It's a beautiful Christmas gift!
Comes in two sizes, 58x42, $7.95 . . . 58x72, $12.95, postpaid.
ORDER By MAIL TODAY!
THE MARGORITA SHOP
1018 SOUTH MAIN STREET, LOS ANGELES 15
(Add 2'/2% sales tax for delivery in California)
Specify your color choice by number. Color No. 1 is shown
above; five other vivid California colors ore shown below
Casual Strappings
Choose wonderful California accessories to compliment your
sportswear... casual and correct are "Vic" Colton's wedge shoes
Emmet's cowhide bags, Coro gold collar, Parker's pigskin gloves
You'll take greater pride in these glamour-made California
pretties, highly original and dramatic: Ted Saval's platform
shoes, Ben Brody suede bags, Coro jewels, Ailuj suede gloves.
Elegant Trappings
\:~-
A NEW ANGLE on skirts . . . Preview Sportswear mitres
multicolor stripes . . . wonderful contrast for bright blouses
or sweater like this zephyr by Maurice Holman. Flannel skirt,
about $9 at Hale Bros., San Francisco ; Swelldom, Los Angeles.
58
YOURS TRULY* ••and so easy to order
Beautiful hand work on the cutout beaded monogram makes this the one
blouse you will cherish. It's carefully tailored by Deauville Models in
fine tissue faille crepe. Monogram in silver, gold, black or white bead-
ing. Blouse in white only. Sizes 32 to 38. Send for it now. .. delivery
within 2 to 3 weeks Only $14.95 complete with monogramming.
ersonal Fashion Accessories
7932 WEST 3rd STREET. LOS ANGELES36 • WYOMING 8542
KATHY'S
7932 WEST THIRD STREET • LOS ANGELES 36, CALIFORNIA
Enclosed please find check or money order for $ 1 4.95. Send me
by parcel posf fhe wh;'fe monogrammed blouse as advertised.
Up to 3 INITIALS
□ □ □
LEFT
CENTER
RIGHT
BEADING COLOR.
FULL NAME
.SIZE (32 to 38)-
ADDRESS-
CITY_
.STATE.
California residents please add 2^A% state sales tax. 3% within Los Angeles.
NOVEMBER WEATHER DATA
Los
San
Angeles
Francisco
Average Maximum
72.7
62.9
Average Minimum
51.2
50.7
Highest
96
83
lowest
34
38
Percentage Sunshine
79
63
Precipitation
1.08
2.45
VACATION LATE?
SO YOUR vacation comes late this year? Take heart!
Take a train or plane and come west! November in
California is a thanks-giving period for wonderful
and countless enchanting things to see and do.
What to wear? The majority of the days will be
balmy with an occasional tinge of crispness. Your
tailored travel suit will fit beautifully into the No-
vember picture for shopping, luncheon and sip 'n'
run cocktails. For later hours . . informal dining,
dancing and the theatre . . there's nothing like a dark
dinner suit in satin or moire . . an artist's beret of
black velvet can be worn with either, and you'll find
it easy to pick.
November in California is a month for slacks and
pedal-pushers, for sweaters and gay little jackets . .
you'll wear them for lounging, for scuffing through
leaf-strewn paths and for moonlight beach sorties.
As always, there will be plenty of sun in California
. . Palm Springs, its season just well under way,
will beckon you down for its incomparable desert-
mountain beauty and its perpetual round of fun . .
you'll want sun togs and one or two light prints.
Indispensable roundabouter is the long-sleeved
casual classic dress . . a dark stripe on light, with
dark accessories to fill many a bill. And if your
itinerary includes rustic sojourns, you'll love having a
tweed jacket and a bright wool skirt. Scarves, of
course, several of them.
For football games, the races, and for traveling,
the ideal accoutrement is a soft, full-swinging suede
coat, perhaps with matching beret. And
your fur coat comes into its own for
after-sundown wear. Holiday dining,
family conclaves and jewel-tone wool
or knit dresses go hand-in-mitten . . and
en route to your dinner destination, a
gay wool topper is a must.
Try day and evening tricks with a
jerkin of dark wool threaded with bright
metal. For days, it can be worn over a
long-sleeved tailored blouse and skirt
. . for evenings wear it with over-the-
elbow gloves and a long slim skirt of
dark wool-crepe.
WHERE TO BUY PALMDAYL BLOUSE
T he lovely Palmdayl blouses as pictured on page 41 are available at the
following stores:
ALASKA: Fairbanks, Gladys Morris Ladies' Ready To Wear; Anchorage/
Smart Shop; Seward, Moody's Dept. Store; Ketchikan, J. R. Heckman Inc.,
Juneau, B. M. Behrends Co.; Sitka, Ann's Apparel.
ARIZONA: Phoenix, Porter's & Korrick's; Flagstaff, Babbitt Bros.; Tucson,
Jacome's; Winslow, Babbitt Bros.; Kingman, Central Commercial Co.
CALIFORNIA: Blythe, Halby's; Van Nuys, Sporty Knit; San Francisco, City
of Paris, Helene's; Burlingame, Town & Country Shop; Bakersfield, Harry.
Coffee, Malcolm Brock Co., La Cresta Village Frock Shop; Merced, Selb's,-
Oildale, Alma Mae Smart Shop; Oxnard, Dolly Brigham; Paso Robles,
Chamber's Dress Shop; San Diego, Hafter's; Claremont, Town & Country;!
Santa Barbara, Jack Rose; San Luis Obispo, Ru-Mae Shop; Pismo Beach,.
Dorotha Harding; Inglewood, Marbro's; Laguna Beach, Stuart Avis; Seal'
Beach, Kute-Togs; Ontario, Henry's; Lake Arrowhead, Bud Sigs; Whittier, :
Justine's; Balboa, Surf & Sand; Pasadena, Bullock's-Pasadena; E. Los
Angeles, Bette Duke; Glendale, Knit Togs; Compton, Knit Togs; Beverly
Hills, Nobby Knit; Oakland, H. C. Capwell Co.; Berkeley, J. F. Hink & Son; •
Taft, Pruiett's; Fresno, Harry Coffee, Swendra's; Lemoore, Clayton's Dress'
Shop; Shafter, Johnson-Neuman; Tulare, Lois Style Shop; Pacific Beach,
Carolyn's; National City, Ethel's; La Jolla, lller's, Inc.; Ventura, Jack Rose; Fall- i
brook, Vivienne's; Alameda, Dorothy's of Alameda; Santa Ana, Mattingly's; Re-
dondo Beach, Herman's; Burbank, Townley's; Fullerton, Kingsbury's; Bell, Fash-
ion Shop; Montebello, West-Ways; Los Angeles, Bullock's and Bullock's-West-
wood; Long Beach, Knit Togs; Huntington Park, Knit Togs; Santa Monica, Camp-
bell's; San Fernando, Valley Sportswear; Monrovia, McBratney's; Temple
City, Murphy's; No. Hollywood, Rathbun's; Belmont Shore, Sportbar; Mont-
rose, Scanlon Sportswear; Pomona, Taylor's Sportswear; Anaheim, Clarice |
Apparel; Covina, Eleanor's of Covina; Hollywood, Nobby Knit; San Ber-
nardino, Sport Togs; Riverside, Kristy's.
COLORADO: Colorado Springs, C. V. Clamp Ladies' Shop; Denver, Daniels |
& Fisher; Grand Junction, Harry B. Manuel; Pueblo, Day-Jones Co.
FLORIDA: Miami, Sally Anne Sportswear.
IDAHO: Boise, The Falk Mercantile Co.; Lewiston, Scotty's; Pocatello, Fargo-
Wilson-Wells.
ILLINOIS: Chicago, James F. Bisset Co.; Community Gift Shop, Lola Wen-
dorff; Highland Park, The J. B. Garnett Co.; Glencoe, Garnett & Co.; Evans-
ton, Ruda's; Wilmette, Hoffman Bros., Ethel Mannerud; Lake Forest, Garnett
Co.
INDIANA: Indianapolis, L. S. Ayres.
KANSAS: Colby, Colby Classics.
MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, The Dayton Co.
MONTANA: Billings, The D. J. Cole Co.; Bozeman, Chamber-Fisher Co.;
Great Falls, Andrew Thisted & Sons, Inc.
NEBRASKA: Kimball, Vogue Shop; Sidney, Princess Shoppe.
NEVADA: Las Vegas, Ronzone's Dept. Store, The Dude; Reno, Wonder
Millinery & Dress Shop.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Kistler-Collister Co.; Clovis, Thelma's; Ro swell,
Elizabeth's.
OREGON: Pendleton, Mosette's; Medford, Burleson's; Portland, Olds Wort-
man & King,- Newberg, Miller's; Sweet Home, Moore's; North Bend, The
White House; Coos Bay, The Hub; La Grande, Rath's; Redmond, Ethel
Smith's Dress Shop; Burns, The Vogue; Portland, Charles F. Berg; Hermiston,
Bumham & Burnham; Coquille, Lorenz Dept. Store; Oregon City, Audre'sj
Gresham, Pauletta's; Roseburg, Miller's; Bend, Rath's; Ashland, Pentzer's.
OHIO: Dayton, Lenore Zapoleon.
TEXAS: El Paso, Popular Dry Goods Co.
UTAH: Salt Lake City, Wolfe's Sportsmen Hdqs.; Salt Lake Knitting Store;
Ogden, Fred M. Nye; Provo, Evan Thomas Co.
WASHINGTON: Bellingham, Victor's; Kennewick, The Crest; Richland, Hurt's
Apparel; Camas, Wadsworth Gown Shop; Burlington, Maxine's Style Shop;
Grandview, Rose Dress Shop; Ritzville, Rummer's Style Shop; Sedro Wooley,
Mary Louise Shop; Ellen sburg, Morgan's; Pullman, Betty's Fashion Shop;
Prosser, Perry's Women's Wear; Port Orchard, Barbara Best Fashions; Walla
Walla, King's; Longview, The Style Shop; Enumclaw, Knowlton's; Yakima, Jess
Barber's Sport Shop, Miller's; Clarkston, Lee Morris Co.; Pasco, Marian's;
Spokane, Rusan's; Wen a tehee. The Fashion Shop and Alaska Dress Shop-
Toppenish, June's Specialty Shop.
WYOMING: Rawlins, Ferguson Mercantile Co.; Newcastle, Wallack's; Cody;
K & K Shop.
60
WHERE TO BUY YOUR
i'MISS PREVIEW SKIRT"
I he new match -slim "Miss Preview" skirt, as adver-
ised on page 16, is available at the following stores:
kLABAMA: Birmingham, Parisian; Montgomery, Mont-
lomery Fair.
IXLASKA: Anchorage, Carol Shop.
ARIZONA: Tucson, Taylor's.
1ALIFORNIA: Alameda, Miss Alameda; Alhambra, Betty
"o-Ed, Lieberg's; Anaheim, Clarice; El Centro, Hazel
larch; El Monte, Miss & Matron,- Gramercy Park,
ileonore's; Co mo ton, Jr. Deb; CI a rem on t, Brickman'sj
:ullerton, Kingsbury; Glendale, Cameo; Hollywood, Dear-
Jen's, Regina Sport Shop; HoltvMIe, Swanson's; In-
ilewood, Rifz Apporel; Indio, Harris Co.; Hermosa
leach, Jean's; Manhattan Beach, Jean's; Huntington
'ark, Dearden's; North Hollywood, Sporty Knit; Oak-
and. Hale Bros.; Ocean Beach, Veda Moss; Pomona,
$ Ir. Jills; Pasadena, F. C. Nash; Redlands, Blum's;
i liverside, Kristy's; Sacramento, Hale Bros.; Stockton,
The Wonder; Son Diego, Hafter's; San Bernardino,
Harris & Co.; San Francisco, Hale Bros.; San Jose,
Hate Bros.; Santa Barbara, Wendel's; Santa Ana,
haltingly; San Pedro, Lewis; Santa Monica, Morbro
lampus Shop; Temple City, Lieberg's; Tulare, Allen's
Style Shop; Whittier, Trbbett's.
ZOLORADO: Boulder, La Salle's; Denver, Joslin Dry
Soods; Colorado Springs, Perkins-Shearer.
:LORIDA: Miami, Burdine's.
GEORGIA: Augusta, J. B. White.
I HAWAII: Honolulu, Bunny's.
|DAHO: Pocatello, Fargo-Wilson-Wells.
! ILLINOIS: Joliet, Boston Store,
j NDIANA: Terre Haute, Root Dry Goods Co.
MASSACHUSETTS: Boston, Neal's of California.
MINNESOTA: Duluth, Duluth Glass Block.
MISSOURI: Joplin, Chenault's; Kansas City, Jones Store.
'MONTANA: Butte, Hennessey & Co.
I NEVADA: Las Vegas, Johnson's.
[NEW YORK: New York, John Wannamaker.
; pHIO: Cincinnati, McAlpine's; Toledo, Lion Dry Goods.
j OREGON: Leon's in Astoria, Salem, Klamath Falls,
iugene and Medford.
[PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, John Wanamaker; Pitts-
I burgh, Frank & Seder; Wilkes Barre, Lazarus Store;
I Lancaster, Watt & Shand, Inc.
I.50UTH CAROLINA: Greensville, J. B. White.
IjTENNESSEE: Nashville, Caster Knott; Chattanooga,
IjLoveman's; Memphis, J. Gerber.
|j"EXAS: Houston, Byrd's,- Ft. Worth, Monnig Dry Goods;
| pan Antonio, The Vogue.
IjJTAH: Ogden, Nadine's; Salt Lake City, Salt Lake
| Knit Shop.
I WASH I NGTON: Everett, Chaffee's; Seattle, Mac-
l|Dougalf & Southwick; Tacoma, Peoples Store; Yakima,
llPeoples Store; Port Angeles, Peoples Store; Chehalis,
iPeoples Store; Ellensburg, Peoples Store; Bellingham,
IfAacDougall-Southwick; Mt. Vernon, MacDougall-South-
livick; Wenatchee, MacDougall-Southwick; Vancouver,
Leon's; Longview, Leon's.
' ■STST£MENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, CIRC1I-
lKAT.,.°Jt: JFTC* REQUIRED BY THE ACT OF CONGRESS OF
BESS IWlil'Y ^ fsiir" BY ™E AC" °F MARCH
KOf The CALIFOKNIAN, published monthly, at Los Angeles,
I California, for September 24. 1948.
IKtate of California, County of Los Angeles — ss.
■ I Before me, a Notary Public In and for the State and
tfCounty aforesaid, personally appeared J. H. Osherenko,
■who, having been duly sworn according to law, deposes
■ kind says that he Is the Publisher of The CALIFORNIAN,
Ibnd that the fol lowing Is, to the best of his knowledge
■ land belief, a true statement of the ownership, mamgement
■Hand if a dally, weekly, semi weekly or triweekly news-
■Ipaper, the circulation), etc., or the aforesaid publication
■ (Tor the date shown in the above cnnttnn. ronulrert hv the
Itact of August 24. 1912, as amended by the acta of March
:<. 1933. and July 2. 1946 (section 537, Postal Laws and
I Regulations) , printed on the re om e of this form, to wit:
II 1. That the names and addresses of the publisher,
editor, managing editor, and business managers are:
Publisher, J. R. Osherenko. 1020 S. Main St., Los
Angeles 15, Calif.; Editor. J. R. Osherenko, 1O20 S.
Main St., Los Angeles 15. Calif.: ^^^ erflslng Direr-
tor. William J. Bowen, 1020 S. Main St., Los An-
?*.?£ J,5* Ca,lf-: Managing Editor, Donald A. Carlson.
I 1020 S. Main St.. Lot \n-'.-le« 15. Ca"f
t 2. That the owner Is: (If owned by a corporation, Ita
n?™e *nd address must be stated and also lmmedi-
ateiy thereunder the names and addresses of stock-
holders owning or holding one percent or more of
total amount of stock. If not owned bv a corporation
the names and addresses of the Individual owners
must be given. If owned by a firm, company, or other
unincorporated concern, its name and address, as well
as those of each individual member, must be given 1
The CALIFOnvT>\- Magazine. Inc.. 1020 S. Main St.,
Los Angeles 15, California: Donald A. Carlson & Gen-
evieve Carlson, 339 N. Bronson Ave.. Los Angeles.
Calif.; Marco K. Frankel, 301 Tonawanda Dr.T Oes
Moines, Iowa; Babette Frankel, 301 Tonawanda Dr.,
Des Moines. Iowa: Philip Kustner. 3815 Main St.
Riverside, Calf.; ^vtv:.n Mendelsohn. 1139 Alvira
Los_Angeles. Calif.; Carol Osherenko, 802 N.
Beverly Hills. C-iHf.: -Toe R. n^herpnlrr
Bedford Dr.,
802 N. Bedrord Dr., Beverly Hllla, Callf.i Loxda
Osherenko. 711 Ellery Dr.. San Pedro, Calif.- ih
Prinzmetal, 9441 Wllshlre Blvd.. Bex erly Hills, Calif •
r^ir|m^n^nnacVfnd- 7no'' Beverly Blvd.. Los Angeles!
Calif.; Saul I Sf-erman. 1450 Broadway, New \ork
Pl\.YLoSLU£g'eeief. ?8ff? Famham- "20% Hacienda
That the known bondholders, mortgagees, and other
at £t$ iJS^m1? °fW?,n^ °r noWingl percent or more
of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securi-
ties are: (If there are none, so state.) None.
That the two paragraphs next above, giving the
names of the owners, stockholders, and security hold-
ers, if any, contain not only the list of stockholders
and security holders as they appear upon the books
of the company but also. In cases where the stock-
holder or security holder appears upon the books of
the company as trustee or In any other fiduciary re-
lation. th<? name of the person or corporation for
whom such trustee Is acting, is given; also that the
said two paragraphs contain statements embracing
affiant s full knowledge and belief as to the circum-
stances and conditions under which stockholders and
security holders who do not appear upon the books
of the company as trustees, hold stock and securities
in a capacity other than that of a bona fide owner*
and this affiant has no reason to believe that any
other person, association, or corporation has any In-
terest direct or Indirect in the said stock, bonds, or
other securities than as so stated by him.
(Signed) J. R. Osherenko. Editor & Publisher.
Sworn to and subscribed before me
this 24th day of September, 1948.
(Seal) Erma A. Potter
(My commission expires August 28, 1951)
imtki^l tit tmtk -
the new ere a se - resistant
Everglaze*
For that fresh, radiant look —
that wonderful unwrinkled look,
with alluring swish and rustle,
choose the new "Everglaze"
taffetas that do not shrink
or stretch and have a rich,
durable lustre. In yard goods and
made-up garments everywhere.
*A trade- mark signifying fabric finished and tested according to processes
and standards controlled and prescribed by Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co.
THE ARTBECK
count
uses
Use to skim
cream from milk
Use to water
plants & flowers
THE ARTBECK WHIP
bears
Perfect results
in few seconds
Use to beat
one or more eggs
ARTBECK PAN HANDLER handles hot utensils safely., easily
Prevents
burned fingers
BUY ALL THREE FOR $2.79 !
A wonderful gift for Christmas . . . ideal for the culinary heart of every home! A practical threesome
that saves your time, your temper and lots of trouble. They can be purchased singly, too. The Artbeck
Beater at $1, Artbeck Baster at 79c and the clever Artbeck Pan Handler at $1. You'll want a set for
yourself and several as gifts for your friendsl Send check or money order Today to
Box 1176
FRED L. SEYMOUR CO.
Add 2'/2% sales tax if you live In California
Beverly Hills, California
THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948
61
SPECIAL XMAS OFFER
STAIVDARD PRICE S12.00
ON ALL ORDERS RECEIVED
BEFORE XMAS S9.9S postpaid
Price reduced only as exclusive introductory
offer— a get acquainted offer to our high
quality products at lower prices through direct
mail order. This originally designed dipper
clock comes in bright polished lacquered
copper that blends with any color scheme for
any room. Makes a delightfully different gift
that you will be proud to give. It is a self-
starting electric clock with the famous "Ses-
sion Movement". Comes complete with cord
and plug. Case 6" diam. 13J4" long.
This special offer is good only on orders
received before Amos. A money bach guaran-
tee if not completely satisfied. Remit by
check or money order.
WHITING COMPANY
Box 129 PLAINVILLE, CONN.
The long and
the short of it
The large paddle is a good mixer in
iced tea or a tall drink, the short
muddler for Old Fashioneds. They
make a very special thank you for
a favorite hostess or a gift for a late
summer wedding. Handforged of
sterling silver the long paddles are
$4.80 each and the muddlers $3.60
each, tax included. Postage 25c.
JAINE
Upper Darby, Pa.
Box 425
/7*t u*uUmgI Qifft Otett*
Adds charm to the entrance of mansion
or cottage. Pictured above, set #14, only
$14.50 delivered. Seven other beautiful
aluminum filagreed scrolls in sets from
$6.85 to $12.50 delivered. Order today
or virite for Bulletin #552-B.
HOWARD A. DAUM CO.
666 Washington Road, Pittsburgh 16, Pa.
SHEER SUBTLETY
Care of fine hosiery — try this way.
Handle with soft hands, don't snag them with rough nails or
a hang nail.
Put on hosiery by placing over the toes and easing up over
the heel and ankle with one hand either side . . . gently, don't
pull on or off roughly. To remove reverse the procedure.
Launder hosiery immediately upon removal. Use gentle
soapy tepid water and slush the stockings about, don't rub.
Rinse several times to be certain that all soap has been removed.
Roll in towel for several seconds to absorb excess moisture,
then hang to dry. Shaping the hosiery as it is put up to dry
will quicken the drying time and leave them flat for folding.
Put them into padded hosiery box when not in use.
Longer life for each pair will result with rotation and you'll
save by buying two pair in each color. Fashion wise this year
are wearing muted tones that blend the costume into the shoes.
"ht
Exclusive new
sandal fashion
a. Unborn calf wilK natural brown and
white mnrbings 6.95
l>. Blacb velveteen nnd red velveteen or blncli
suede, red suede, or green suede . . . 5.95
C. Drnwstring lia-j in black or red velveteen,
(1.00 Federal Tax Included) 5.95
d. Leaflet belt to mntcb, in unborn calf,
velveteen or suede 3.95
Originals styled by
mm.% . • LESTER BAYMER
!Sa»W:
Hollywood Bootery, 6683 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, Calif.
Send Me: Sandals Q Bag □ Belt Q Material
Size Color 2nd Color
Name Street
City Zone State
California residents add 2]/e% sales tax. Mail orders promptly filled.
>J <^- PICNIC AND BARBECUE SET
Just like eating from fine china! !
$475
18 pieces. Porcelain enameled plates, cups and
bowls (6 each). Clean, white and rugged — with
I blacka trim. Packed in special carton with carrying
handle weighing only 5 lbs. complete.
$4.75 Set. Postage Ppd.
Order several for Xmas gifts.
BETTINA NOVELTIES
Box #3422 Richmond Heights, Mo.
Com-
plete
Erase
telltale
wrinkles
Regain youthful
loveliness this easy wa
"Friends say 1 look 10 years you 1
port many women using famous' a
Murray 5-Minule way to beaut)
Facial Course helps banish betray'
kles. crows feet, double chin . . . re!
young contours. So easy! So quickl
facial exercises stimulate nourishing
tion, restore vibrant tone. Success.1!
by more than 40,000 women!
f!
New beauty for you
SEND NO MONEY
Write for FREE BOOKLET in pi;
per telling how facial exercise can i
look years younger. Noobligation.
man will call. Send name and addrc
(HI
206 S. Michigan Av., Suite 1094, ChiiMj/
1
Louise Sa/ing
Schools of Dress Des i$
SAN FRANCISCO & PITlH
Pattern Destining, Pattern iflt
Millinery. Tailoring. H
Modeling. Day and EvemnJH
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco,
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood )|»
I
Pitt,. ,tl
Allan- :3J|t
CHOCOLATE
MINTS .
A soft creamy golden center mi
brown sugar and extra choice
just right proportions — covered thic
the finest quality of pure dark
They're called BROWN STTGAR <
ORIGINAL and DISTINCTIVELY 1
ENT ! Try some now — then order
XMAS GIFTS. Exquisitely wrappi
for the occasion in eight-ounce boxf
three for $3.60, four for $4.60, pos
better stores, or order direct.
HELEIHHARPER CANI
740 El Camino San Carll
Exclusive dealers desired.
Q9HB0H££HMHa
They're New!
mcmmtr.i»m>
-4
I HEY'RE BEAUTIFUl
They're here at last — they won!
out — Gleaming solid metal hold!
corn on the cob; now eat with \
pleasure — Handles kept cool by I
turned air-space fins— Easily twist irl
cob ends— Won't break or melt cl
— Ideal gift for every family, every!
1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plate} %'<\
2. Service for 3 (Silver Plate]
3. Service for 4 (Chrome Plate)
4. Service for 4 (Silver Plcilel
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax.
POSTPAID — CASH. CHECK OR MONEVj
HACKER
icorporat|
BOX 312 -CULVER CITt, C
jiiRE TO BUY THE STELLAR ROBES
L lorful Stellar robes, as advertised on
ill , are available for holiday gifts at
ffiiwing stores:
15II Fairbanks, Jeanette's and Lucille's;
thi|i. Roberta's.
ffCU: Phoenix, Goldwater's.
IJHNIA: Alameda, Town Shop; Beverly
firta Strauss and Livingston's; Brawley,
OKing; Compton, Smart Shop; El Centro,
QKing; Fairfield, Hyde Co.; Fresno, Jos.
t'al ; Hayward, Bressman's; Hollister,
■I n's; Indio, M. O. King; Lancaster,
l': .os Angeles, Kay's Dept. Store, Brown's,
V. Robinson; Lompoc, Rudolph's; Long
Beach, Pavey's, Walker's; Martinez, Florence
Shop; Oakland, H. C. Capwell, Westbrook's,
Jos. Magnin, Lindberg's; Pomona, Ora Addies;
Palo Alto, Lundin & McBride, Jos. Magnin, Sue
Berry Salon; Paradise, Ye Town Shop; Pasadena,
Pasadena Corset Shop, Fashionette, Bullock's-
Pasadena; Pittsburg, Mary's Dress Shop; Pacific
Grove, Holman's; Redding, C. M. Dickers, Inc.;
Redlands, The Harris Co.; San Bernardino, The
Harris Co.; Sacramento, Jos. Magnin Co.; San
Diego, Gilda, Walkers'; San Mateo, Jos. Mag-
nin; San Leandro, Julia's; Santa Barbara,
Trenwith's; Santa Monica, Campbell's and
Berkeley Sport Shop; Santa Rosa, Rosenberg's;
San Francisco, Maison Mendessolle, Barbara
Lexington, Jos. Magnin, City of Paris, Em-
porium, H. Liebes & Co.; Temple City, Leora
Blessinger; Vista, Loretta Marie Shop; Vallejo,
Levee's.
You'll Be
Smitten With This
California Foot Mitten!
tjithe wonderful barefoot comfort and foot protection of these oriental-inspired foot mittens.
s are for patio, pool, swimming, dance classes, dorm and indoor lounging,
and colors accessorize your every need: faded blue denim; white terry cloth; Everfast
lit' in black, yellow, aqua, white and red. Sizes S-M-L.
your check or money order for $2.95 (add 8c sales tax for Calif ornians) to
H^ARGORITA SHOP • 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California
SALT SHAKER THAT ALWAYS POURS IN DAMPEST WEATHER
This beautiful BLUE MAGIC salt shaker is
made of crystal clear glass. This new inven-
tion has a moisture absorbing cap which
may be set aside during mealtime. Lasts in-
definitely. Keeps salt dry and free flowing at
all times. A pepper shaker to match and
small plastic funnel included in this superb-
ly styled condiment set. An ideal hostess
gift. Guaranteed by Good Housekeeping.
Send for a set now. You may want more
before damp weather arrives.
Price $2.50 ££w
ILVERMINE SPECIALTIES CO. Box 336, New Canaan, Conn.
WNNSyUMNM DUTCH HitRLOOMS
Early American trivet repro-
ductions. Will hold teapots,
flower pots, or hot plates.
Or hang them as decorative
wall plaques. (A) Grape; (B)
Colonial Eagle; (C) Star. $1
each, $2.75 for 3, postpaid.
Money back guarantee. Over-
all length, approx. 9" in
smoky black iron.
NOVELTYME STUDIOS
YORK 10, PA.
MERRY MINIATURES
Children love to play with these minia-
ture groceries. They are exact reproduc-
tions of those on mother's shelf, made
of wood for durability. Order this ap-
pealing set for all the young fry on
your Christmas list. Just $1.00 for the
set of ten, postage prepaid. (No
CO.D.'s please).
WAYS & MEANS
P. 0. Box 91, Niagara Square Station
Buffalo, New York
Dealers prices on request.
COLORADO: Colorado Springs, Kayf man's;
Denver, Chez Marie, Norman's Casual Shop.
CONNECTICUT: Hartford, G. Fox 8. Co.
IDAHO: Pocatello, Paris Co.; Boise, Brook-
man's.
ILLINOIS: Cicero, La Vide Shop.
KANSAS: Wichita, Geo. Innes Co.
LOUISIANA: Bogalusa, Goldman's.
MONTANA: Butte, Cannon's.
NEVADA: Reno, Jos. Magnin.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Kistler-Collister Co.
OKLAHOMA: Oklahoma City, Halliburton's.
OREGON: Oswego, Freda's Town & Country;
Portland, Meier & Frank; Salem, Smart Shop;
Roseburg, Mabel Lewis.
OHIO: Cleveland, The Higbee Co.
TEXAS: Rosenberg, Libby's; San Antonio;
Vogue, Inc.
UTAH: Ogden, Fred M. Nye Co.; Cedar City,
Moderne Style Shop.
WASHINGTON, D. C: The Hecht Co.
WASHINGTON: Tacoma, Knettle's; Chehalis,
Boynton's Smart Shop; Seattle, Frederick &
Nelson; Spokane, Alexander's.
WYOMING: Worland, Smart Shop.
BUREAU CARE
To protect the top of your bureau, keep a
piece of white blotting paper under the
cover to absorb anything that happens
to spill. The drawers will be easy to keep
fresh and clean if you paint them on
the inside with white enamel. You can save
cleaning time by lining the drawers with
oilcloth, but if you use white paper lin-
ing, use transparent tape to hold it firmly
in place. If you're using a drawer to store
clothes, cover them with brown paper to
help keep out the dust.
HUMIDIAL
Sensitive! Accurate! New!
The HUMIDIAL combines in one
lightweight attractive case a standard
Thermometer and a novel, accurate
Relative Humidity Indicator. This in-
expensive instrument serves as visual
aid in regulating humidity, insures
maximum comfort and better health,
warns against mold and mildew. An
important aid in weather forecasting.
Order it for your home and for your
friends.
Jusf $1.98 postpaid
HUMIDIAL MANUFACTURING COMPANY
1536 Connecticut Ave., N. W. Washington 6: D. C.
JjCtCUJ x>)
vtnz
OF CALIFORNIA
BEWITCHING NYLONS
in breath-taking fall shades
. . . choice of sheerness
Featuring the new high-moulded heel
51 Gauge, 30 Denier 51 Gauge, 15 Denier
3 PR. for $4.00 3 PR. for $+.75
54 Gauge, 15 Denier
3 PR. for $5.75
Gift Wrapped on Request
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Refunded
Sizes %lA to 11.
Brown Toast — to wear with
brown and beige
Autumn _ Dusk — neutral for
brownish taupe and beige
Honey Almond — flattering with
light brown, beige and greens
Smoke Cloud — blends with
slate and smokey gray and
taupe
LADY IRENE
of California
728 Montana Avenue
Santa Monica, Calif.
Please
3 Prs.
send me
$4.00 □
the
3
following nylons;
Prs. $4.75 □
3
Pn.
$5.75 □
City_
Zone State-
Money Order □ Check O
In California, add 3% sales tax.
Postage Prepaid
KNITTER'S DELIGHT
FOR A PERFECT GIFT!
Dazzle those knitters on your gift list with a HERO GIFT KIT! Cleverly con
rayon moire kit, handily carried in knitter's bag. An ideal gift combin
wine, black, green and rose, also stripes and plaids. (We reserv<
our own choice.)
KIT NO. 1116 (Lorge Kit) Priced: S12.75. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 14f' "
Needles; 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum Needles; 5 sets 7" D. P. Alui
1 Plastic Knit Count; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 4 Plastic Crochet Hooks; 1 Gouge; 1 —
KIT NO. 1115 (Smoll Kit) Priced: S7.95. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum
Needles; 6 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 1 Plastic Knit
Count; 1 Plastic Crochet Hook.
These beautiful kits are available now . . . send you? check or money order to
MARG0RITA SHOP • 1018 south main street • los angeles is, California
/S
"SUNOUT"
PAT PEND.
Glamorize your eyes with "SUNOUT" EYE-
PROTECTORS . . . give your eyes that
wanted sparkle before dates ... try "Sun-
outs" for a quick pickup after a strenuous
day . . . saturate "Sunouts" with your favor-
ite eye lotion. Place on closed eyelid — you
need "not remove makeup . . . "Sunouts" are
placed above the eyelash . . . relax for ten
minutes . . . you will be amazed the sooth-
ing effect "Sunouts" have on tired nerves . . .
your eyes will be delightfully cool and re-
freshed . . - "Sunouts" also induce sleep
. . . if you are following the sun, "Sunouts"
are indispensable for protecting the eyes from
sunglare and sunburn ... so tiny they leave
no rim marks ... use over and over . . .
order today . . . Price, 3 prs. $1.00 Ppd.
"SUNOUT"
119 W. Rudisill Fort Wayne 6, Ind.
2>eLol<uU
SHELLED PECANS
THE ANSWER TO:
■■WHAT TO GIVE?"
For those who desire something that
is distinctive, yet sure to be accept-
able, these shelled pecans are most
appropriate. Golden brown and deli-
cious, they are carefully selected
from the finest nuts grown.
3 lbs. $4,45 — 5 lbs. $7.35
10 lbs. $14.00
SHIPPED PREPAID IN THE
CONTINENTAL U. S.
STERNBERG PECAN CO.
Dept. X
Jackson, Mississippi
Box 193
WALL CHARM
Lovely Creole Courtvard scenes from the
French Quarter of Old New Orleans make
delightful conversation pieces. Exquisite
in any room hung singly, in_ pairsv or in
a proup. Eight famous views include
Brulatour Courtvard (pictured) — Little
Theatre — Old Spanish Courtyard — Pi-
rate's Alley — Governor Claiborne Court-
vard— Old Absinthe House — French Mar-
ket— St. Louis Cathedral. _ These are
hand painted oil originals in full color
signed by the artist on a ten-inch china
plate.
_ $4.00 each or $7.50 pr.
Demi-tasse cups and saucers or three
inch potterv pitchers (above scenes).
$2.00 each or six for $11.00
Your favorite vacation spot or home
painted on a ten inch china plate from
snap-shot (send color description) $5.00.
MAGGIE HARTN'ETT GIFTS
410+ Ravne Drive. New Orleans 19, La.
Postage Prepaid — Insured
64
FOR MISS HOLLYWOOD JR. SUIT
I he Commuter's Suit and the Nautical Co-
ordinates, as pictured on pages 48-49, ore crea-
tions of Miss Hollywood Jr. and Monroe Lloyd,
available at the following stores:
ALABAMA: Birmingham, Parisian.
ARIZONA: Nogales, Brackers; Phoenix, Unique
Gown Shop.
ARKANSAS: El Dorado, Morris Co.; Ft. Smith,
Watkins Store; Hot Springs, Alfred M. Cohen,-
Pine Bluff, Eisenkramer's.
CALIFORNIA: Los Angeles, Charlotte Shop,
Jekyll's, Robinson's; West L. A., Jeanette
Marshall; Huntington Park, Knit Togs; Beverly
Hills, Town Shop; Santa Ana, Markowirz Bros.;
Hollywood, Sporty Knit, Shaynes; Santa Monica,
The Jerry Brills, Bentleys; Arcadia, Santa Anita
Smart Shop; San Bernardino, Stept's; Inglewood,
Robert Skiar; Torrance, Gaye Shop; Riverside,
The Californian; Whittier, Durands; Pasadena,
Bullock's-Pasadena; Ventura, Jack Rose; San
Francisco, Peggy Shoppe; Oakland, Marlowe's;
Sacramento, Mademoiselle Shop; Modesto, J.
Loeb Co.; Napa, Alberts; Santa Rosa, Fashion
Shop; San Luis Obispo, Christine's; Burbank,
Suzanne Lynn.
COLORADO: Denver, Amter's.
CONNECTICUT: Bridgeport, Sady Shops; Meri-
den. The Cherniak; Middletown, Wrubels.
FLORIDA: Bocogrande, Rachel's; Tampa, Sher-
man's & Haber's Dept. Store; Miami Beach,
Mayfair Shop; Jacksonville, Sherman's; Palm
Beach, Natalie Gould; St. Petersburg, Ruth's.
GEORGIA: Atlanta, Leon Froshin.
GUAM, M. I.: Barrett's.
IDAHO: Pocatello, Camitle's; Wallace, Model.
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Morris B. Sach's; Kankakee,
J. Lecour & Sons,- Peoria, Block & Kuhl.
INDIANA: Elkhart, Zeisel Bros.; Evansville, Salm
Bros.; Ft. Wayne, Paris Shop; Indianapolis, H.
P. Wasson Co.
IOWA: Cedar Rapids, Martin's; Des Moines,
Younkers; Magnoketa, R. G. Mann Co.; Mason
City, Eaton's; Marshalltown, Brintnall's; Water-
loo, Sweeney's.
KANSAS: Kansas City, Kay's; Wichita, Thurston's;
Hutchinson, Greenwald's; Topeka, Harry Endlick.
KENTUCKY: Louisville, Levy Bros.
LOUISIANA: Alexandria, Wellen's Dept. Store;
Baton Rouge, Ellzey's; Monroe, Bella Scherek
Davidson; New Orleans, D. H. Holmes Co.;
Shreveport, Palais Royal.
MAINE: Oldtown, Ben Sklar.
MASSACHUSETTS: Boston, Wm. Filene & Sons,-
Lawrence, Cherry & Webb; Fall River, Cherry &
Webb; Springfield, Forbes & Wallace. fConf.J
His nose LIGHTS UP!
BLINKO
THE CLOWN MASK
the biggest laugh-getter in town
Just press the button and hrs nose lights
up like a neon sign . . . and so will the
smile of onlookers. Blinko's the biggest
smile-producer since the circus came
to town. The perfect party or holiday gift.
Has a safe, renewable flashlight battery.
only *1 .75 ... we pay postage
Send check or money order to: Department C
SUSAN BARKER CREATIONS
1244 IARKIN St • SAN FRANCISCO 9, CALIF.
Mewiy Xmai,!
Say it to your pet with a KAT-FE-TER-IA.
Or send one, as an ideal gift, to a friend,
who owns a cat or small dog. Made of
sturdy and bright cast aluminum, the KAT-
FE-TER-IA is practically unbreakable. High-
ly ornamental; it will grace any home. 10"
long, 8" high. Removable food receptacles
are of oven-proof glass, and have 20-ounce
capacity. Place covers (not shown in illus-
tration) over refused food and refrigerate;
worm the food, if puss so demands, in the
receptacles. Save food, time and soiled
pans. Order nowl If you want shipment
direct to a friend, send your Xmas card and
we will include it in the package. Please
advise us if you want shipment held up until
two weeks before Xmas.
PRICE, $3.75, POSTPAID. No C.O.D.'s
TH E KATFETE RIA CO-
Box 1228 Section 5 Portsmouth, Ohio
BARREL O' MONEY-
BANK
It's Attractivel
It's Practical!
Hand-made of half-
inch natural white
Dak, banded with 4
brass hoops, it be-
longs where it will be
;een. Measuring 6"x
4", it can hold $1 1 in
oennies, or $32.50 in
nickels, or $1 50 in
either dimes or quar-
ters (we've tried itl)
protected by a fool-
proof lock and key.
Bet you'll want onel
$2.95 postpaid
No C.O.D.'s, please
De Witt's Country Store, New Canaan, Connecticut
PELI-CAN BAR BIRD. The new
Peii Can opener punctures a big-
ger hole for easier pouring of
canned liquids. It ts also an ex-
cellent bottle opener and pryer-
offer of jar tops . . . haavy
enough to crack cube ic«. Of
solid aluminum with cutting
point and edges of hard«n*d
steel. $1 .95 postpaid.
A SUGGESTION FOR
(Christum a
— It's new! It's useful! It's ornamen-
tal—IMPROVED VISOR COVER,
with pockets, slips on like a glove.
No more searching in glove compart-
ment for sun-glasses, roadmaps, note-
book, comb, etc Even has mirror and
zippered purse for extra parking
coins. Handsomely bound _ leatherette,
in blue, maroon or tan. Single cover
$3.00, Pair $5.50 postpaid. State
length and width of your visor, color
wanted, make of car. Order early!
AXFORD IMPROVED VISOR COVER CO.
ttfML-
1524 N. E. 128TH AVENUE
PORTLAND 16, OREGON
Cc
consti
*J^ Built to
^^ shoulder line . Sui
leisure jackets hold
can't sag. Wide full trc
prevents creasing. Revolvim
plated hook. The most practica
ever built. Can't chip, crack, break,
smooth. Lasts a lifetime. ORDER Ji
Gift Packed 6 to a Box.
Ideal for Xmas.
HENRY HANGER CO. OF AW
450 SEVENTH AVE., N.Y.C
| Send postpaid "Aristocrat" H ga
at $1.25 ea. Set of 12 — $12.00. CM
[ CHOICE: Crystal. Amber. Onyx lap
I phire, Emerald, Ruby, Mahogany.
|i Enclose check or money order
TO EVERYONE . . EVERYWHER
Santa'^ Chocotfat
WRAPPED . . ADDRESSED . . Mi
A POSTMARI
vic^m SANTA CLAUr
tjt&^&i.- \ SANTA CLAUS'
A jpeeiolly-ielected assortment of truly fine light
chocolates, actually moiled from Santo'i home. Be origine
delicious Santo" * Chocolates lo the "fovoriles" on your li
Christmas delivery, we promise!
No. loos r . ib. box . . $2.89
No. 1005 5 fb. box ..$4.95
WRITE FOR TOY & GIFT CATALOG —
&a*fc(?/lw*&
v*
44 HOLIDAY BLVD.
SANTA CLAUS, Ih
1
POCKET ALARM WATCH is created
pressly to fill the need for the uno:
yet practical and most appealing 4
For his pocket or her purse, this
high Swiss 7-jewel movement w |
opens to stand like a clock — usefu
desk or dresser. Bell alarm. Choio"
light or dark dial. Postpaid, $2 5
in gold plate, $16.24 in chrome.
THE CALIFORNIAN
-to.
V^MeVHf GknUtmai.
^*I:ards of wood
■ (iends will exclaim over and
lir these charming, novel CARDS
-' tt|3D. Wafer-thin, flexible, made
~'JM, Pine, Cedar and other ex-
fcferained woods, 3£4"x424", print-
appropriate designs and messages.
~wi""- Send only $* for 6 (51*50
;Hassorted beautiful cards with en-
;r;£jnd illustrated folder. You'll want
f.Her before Christmas!
l RvRKS OF WOOD make attrac-
pensive gifts. Made of the same
satiny woods, gay with colored
ind tree decorations. $1 for 4
ent, with greeting cards, en-
Qrder Now/
DS OF WOOD
New York
(Iter to your child
\from Santa Ctaus!
POSTMARKED FROM
'SANTA CLAUS"
• ADDRESSED
• STAMPED
• MAILED
25c
INCLUDES
LETTER. ENVELOPE
AND 3c POSTAGE
| the iurpnie and childith delight when your
niece or nephew openv a real letter from
letter hoi lour page*, lithly printed in four
I fa mailed poitpoid in a three-color envelope
U authentic "Santo Clrjos" postmark! Order one
Ciiild on your I. it NOWI
K
RITE FOR TOY & GIFT CATALOG a
\ffc (?/bus*&#d
SANTA CLAUS, INDIANA
STABLE, TOO!
\nazing! NEW
I Y-CH AIR TABLE
ttives and Hollywood writ- _t
I producers. Some homes
pojaid anywhere in U. S. for only $16"
SBSOnit! *'«! ft»m W.CF.DIFTZ INDUSTRlCDipt. M.1,
3233 Obitmrtorr Rood, Cincinnati 8, Ohk
AND MONROE LLOYD COORDINATES
MICHIGAN: Detroit, Winkelman's; Grand Rapids,
Wurzburg's; Petaskey, Wei ling's; Pontiac,
Arthur's; Lansing, Maurice's; Flint, The Vogue;
Ann Arbor, Collins Shop; Jackson, Elaine Shop.
MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, Buttrey's; St. Paul,
Levine & Tanz; Rochester, Julius Esters; Fergus
Falls, Norby Dept. Store.
MISSISSIPPI: Jackson, R. E. Kennington.
MISSOURI: St. Joseph, Einbender's.
NEBRASKA: Alliance, Ale's; Fairbury, Smart
Shop; Omaha, J. L. Brandeis Co.; Lincoln,
Ben Simon.
NEVADA: Elko, Beardsley's.
NEW HAMPSHIRE: Manchester, Parisian.
NEW JERSEY: Newark, Bamberger Co.; Ridge-
wood, Jenny Banta; Paterson, Fashion Inc.;
New Brunswick, House of Fashion; Atlantic City,
Famous Shop.
NEW MEXICO: Carlsbad, Ann's Shop; Clovis,
Thelma's; Tucumcari, Frock & Bonnet Shop.
NEW YORK: Amsterdam, Halzheimer & Shane;
Niagara Falls, Jere's; Binghamton, Hills, McLean
& Haskin; Buffalo, Win. Hengerer Co.; Rochester,
Natl. Clothing Co.; Brooklyn, Frederick Loeser
Co.; Utica, College Hall; Syracuse, Dey Bros.;
Jamaica, L.I., B. Gertz Co.; New York, Plymouth
Shop; Yonkers, Schillers.
OKLAHOMA: Miami, Gordon's; Houston, Smart
Shop; Duncan, Abbies; Oklahoma City, Marga-
ret's; Tulsa, Clarks; Chickasha, Paulette Shop;
Norman, Hoover's Fashion Shop; Lawton, Pari-
sian; Bartlesville, Koppel's.
OHIO; Hamilton, Denton's; E. Liverpool, Metz
Fur Co.; Elyria, Fay Co.; Dayton, Rike Kumler;
Cincinnati, Pogue Co.; Cleveland, May Co.;
Toledo, Lam son Bros.; Youngstown, Livingstons;
Akron, Madison's; Columbus, Madison's.
PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, Strawbridge &
Clothier; Johnstown, Penn Traffic; Pittsburgh,
Kaufmann's.
SO. CAROLINA: Columbia, Allan's.
TENNESSEE: Memphis, Frances Ross Shops; Nash-
ville, Chester's; Knoxville, George & Co.
TEXAS: San Antonio, The Vogue; Corpus Christi,
Buttrey's; Dallas, Phi I Upson's; Austin, Collegiate
Shop; Abilene, Waddington's; Lubbock, Hackels;
Amarilto, Hollywood Shop; Port Arthur, Myron's;
Galveston, Model; Ft. Worth, Stripling's; El
Paso, Glass Ready To Wear; Beaumont, Jay's;
Odessa, Nash Tucker; Borger, Bent leys; Denton,
Miss Hendley's Shop; McAllen, Ladies Supply
Co.; Houston, Palais Royal.
UTAH: Logan, Logan Sportswear.
WASHINGTON: Seattle, Collins; Aberdeen,
Worth's; Vancouver, Hadley's; Yakima, Nathan's;
Spokane, Jacaue's; Olympia, Paulson's.
WASHINGTON, D.C.: Jellepp.
WISCONSIN: Madison, Yost's; Milwaukee, The
Grand.
FOR THE FIRST TIME ANYWHERE/
The CHRISTMAS GIFT You'll
Choose For Yourself!
Designed by women to make your sewing easier,
more comfortable — SEWHELPER gives you
specially designed, extra convenient storage space
for nil your sewing needs— in a beautiful cabinet
you'll be proud to have in your living room. SEW-
HELPER keeps all your sewing paraphernalia IN
ONE PLACE anywhere in your house.
Typical of the'eonvenience of SEWHELPER is
the unique THREADSNIPS unit, holding 18 spools
of thread under tension. With one hand you pull out
thread to the desired length, snip it off in a single
motion with the built-in THREADSNIPS.
No other sewing cabinet at any price gives you
all the conveniences of SEWHELPER-
Unique THREADSNIPS
Hallmoon Pin Tray
Scissors Compartment
Three Button Trays
Needle Cushion
Knitting Needle Tray
Spool Holders for Exlra
Thread and Darning
Cotton.
Two Roomy Compart-
ments lor Mending or
Darning.
Yale Lock to Keep the
Kiddies Out.
Light-weight, with Dis-
appear! ngleatherHan-
dies.
Two Thimble Holders.
12. Bamboo Design, Color-
ful Exterior Panels.
SewHelper is shipped postpaid anywhere in U.S. for on!
MONEY-BACK
GUARANTEE
Order direct from W. C. F. DIETZ INDUSTRIES, Dept. M-3
3233.0 bservalory Road, Cincinnati 8, Ohio
*Not Including thread, scissors, etc., shown to Illustrate SewHelper In uie.
No. 3, teed Tea-
1 2%A ox.
(Heavy tip-proo
, chip-
A Shoal of Sperm Whale Off Hawaii
FOR YOUR OWN HOME, or as an
unusually handsome gift try this HAND-
COLORED facsimile of a rare, old
whaling aquatint showing a colorful
Pacific whaling scene. Matted and
ready for framing, size 25x30 inches.
Edition limited to 100 prints. Price $16.
Shipped prepaid alt over U.S.
Fine pictures are our specialty.
Write us of your wants.
KENNEDY & COMPANY
785 Fifth Ave., New York 22, N. Y.
VMUJHJ.'M!l*M:hWA
ORDER DIRECT—ONLY $2.65 POSTPAID
Tel-Sec keeps pad and pencil at your finger tip»
— in handy, rigid, pull-out drawer. Ideal for
home, office, shop, store. All metal. Non-
breakable. (Not plastic.) Beautiful enamel fin-
ish matches phone. Installed instantly — simply
snap into place. No more hunting for paper
or pencii^-or writing on wall — uses ordinary
pad and pencil. This is the original, ail metal
Tel-Sec, with over 100,000 enthsusiastic usen.
Order yours today!
COMPLETE SATISFACTION OR MONEY BACK
5x7 V2 oblong, $2.65; 5x6 oval and 5Vi round,
$2.95; 5y2x9, $3.95.
Extra refill pads, 20 for $1.00. No C.O.D.'t.
Dealers invited.
LANKO INDUSTRIES SALES DIVISION
(Exclusive Nat't Distributor)
6774 Taft Dept. H-ll Detroit 8, Mich.
Vropette
Trade J£ Mark
The NEW, easy way ■
to Read, Write or
"Breakfast" in bed
...in comfort!
• AT LAST, the perfect gift for that
convalescing friend, or for anyone who
enjoys lounging in bed. PROPETTE is so
HANDY! It folds flat against headboard,
out of the way when not in use . . . Just
pull outward and it "props" you up in a
jiffy, ready for complete relaxation.
• Durably made of Masonite with beauti-
ful Walnut grain finish. Adjustable height
and slope, PROPETTE
fits all beds.
9 For an exclusive, highly
appreciated gift ORDER
NOW! Satisfaction guar-
anteed. 24-hour shipment
MORGAN PRODUCTS CO
Dept. 7R 1250LokelandAve.*Cleveland7,O.
_^ --—™-— ^™«, Pat. Pend. ,=_«__._=
ONLY
$^95
6«
FUST-
PAID
(Add 25c
West of Rockies)
November, 1948
65
OrtdiuUlualLf. yauA.1
SIR JAMES MONOGRAMMED
CLASSIC in Juilliard's 100%
Wool Crepe.
Exquisitely designed with new,
softer lines and highly individ-
ualized by a stunning 3-letter
monogram in white seed pearls
outlined in gold beads.
Sizes 10-20. Smoke Gray, Black, Pine
Green. $39.95.
State size, color and 3-letter monogram
underlining surname for large middle
initial. Send check or money order. No
returns. In California, add 3% for tax.
Delivery in three weeks.
152 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif.
' Jla*td - e>u#e£ IN
GUATEMALA !
PALOMINO
LEATHER
SHOULDER BAGS
• New! Stylish! Full Lenglh Slraps!
• Sizes For Mother and Daughter.
$965f
iT ih«7 ^""um*. ™«^d LABGE SIZE
* boqL Lot?* ba^ Lt 8 * 10' i fllhiilKHtdL .
.moll bo, L> SVi.TH Child's
SMALL SIZE
mitu
SOLD BY MAIL ONLY — ORDER TODAY!
S2.00 Deposit on COJ). Orders
IBROPAR DISTRIBUTORS
Soutlwiest's LcadinU Mail Order House
Box 275. Dept. 1189 San Antonio 6, Texas
bwulllully irfl«J ■
FAMILY BULLETIN BOARD
You can solve the "forgotten message" with a family bulletin
board, which can double as a grocery list reminder, household
duties list, and general catch-all for information around home.
If you grow bored with the daily menus you prepare, keep a
suggestion list for the members of your family ... if anyone
says "Why don't we ever have creamed onions anymore?" jot
it down for the next meal, or next shopping list.
Use the bulletin board to remind everyone of the purpose
of your budget. You're saving for a car . . . cut out a picture
of the one you're aiming for and keep it at the top of every-
body's mind by giving it prominent space on the board.
The children can rate space with good report cards, birthday
greetings and latest snapshots.
MAKE A PRETTY SEWING BOX
For your scissors, pins, needles, tape measure, thimble, snaps,
hooks and eyes, silk and cotton spools of thread, buy a fishing
tackle box with a removable tray inside and convert it into a
pretty sewing box. Paint it in a pastel shade to blend with the
prevailing color scheme.
MONOGRAMMED
S C E N Tinei by D U N H I L L
A lovely gift set by MARY DUNHILL, The
famous SCENTinef perfume container which
guards the perfume in your purse, and a
matching funnel for filling. The SCENTinel,
a metal encased glass bottle, with a ground
glass leakproof stopper . . . lets no precious
rop escape . . . can't get # out of order.
Personalized with 2 or 3 initials engraved
•without charge.
SCENTinel and Funnel:
Gold tone metal S 3.50 no tax
Sterling Silver SI 1.40 incl. tax
Individual SCENTinel:
Cold tone metal S 2. SO no tax
Sterling Silver S 9.00 incl tax
Please print initials. No COD's, please
All items postpaid and Gift Boxed.
THE GIFT SCOUT
Dept. E Box 2T8 Bronxville, N. Y.
IF NOTHING PLEASES YOU
be happy with
PAMELA GAY ULTRA BRIEFS
Less than one
ounce for round-
the-clock comfort
under your casual
and formal
clothes!
BAREST
WHISPER
Yellow or
Blue Sheer
S2.95
BREATHLESS
Black or Nude
Lace
$3.50
BO-PEEP
Black or White
Sheer Lace and
Bow Trim
$4.50
Send hip measurements. We prepay
orders 1st Class Mail. No C.O.D. Send
check with order.
PAMELA GAY SHOP
BOX 23-C, MELROSE 76, MASSACHUSETTS
INGENIOUS MECHANICS
IN MINIATURE
STEAM ROLLER
An amazingly accurate scale model revved up—
moving forward and reverse automatically in the
same motions as the prototype — advancing slowly
in each forward movement. $2.00 Postpaid
SOLDIERS OF THE WORLD
By Britain Prom Britain
The famous line of standard size — correctly colored — moveable arm figures-
collectors' items.
1.
5.
French Cuirassaires — with their shin-
ing helmets and plumage — mounted
— 5 pc. set — $2.00
Arabs on Horses — a strikingly col-
orful set^-on the gallop — with up-
raised rifles — 5 pc. set — $2.00
U. S. Marines in blue uniform —
marching at slope arms with officer —
8 pc. set — $2.00
West Point Cadets — summer dress —
8 pc. set — $2.00
The famous French Foreign Legion —
in full kit with mounted officer — 7
pc. set — $2.00
FARM SERIES
Each set is lifelike in reproduction
1. Farmyard set — stable boy - calf - pig, collie, cow and sheep — 7 pieces — $1.50
2. Home Farm Set — farmer and wife - sheep - horse, lambs and piglets — 9 pieces — $1.75
3. Large Form Set — stable lad, dog, large and small trees, shire horse, cart horse, fool,
colt, light horse — 10 ps. set — $3.00
A complete list of soldiers, farm, circus and zoo fig-
ures will be sent on receipt of 7 0c in stamps or com.
LNTERNATIONAL MODELS, INC.
879 Eighth Avenue
New York 19, N. Y.
fjeatt JH.04U \
Star Clrrtsttj
PLASTIC TREASURE CHEST
of perfume and toilet water by I
Name hand painted in gold. 1
chest can be used for jewelry
knacks. Chest in Red, Gray, Gree
plastic.
4"x2^". 3.50 plus 55i
MINIATURE SEWING CIRCLlI
gift for purse or dressing table. ClI
velvet lined. Inside fitted witithii
needles, pins, hooks and eyes, 2 spoil
2J4" diameter.
From the Adele Jewelry Counter
this PURSE-SIZE SILENT BU EH
smoking convenience, or for non-sm I
pill box. Sensational gift idea! G fi
name hand engraved. 2"x2". 6.9 m
PERSONALLY YOURS lExquki
crepe half slip, beautifully scallopetfll
inch cream net edging. Bias cut; ela; 1
band. Sizes 24 to 30. Pink, white '
Name embroidered in any color.
7.50
GIFT WRAPPED ON REQUES'
Send Check or Money Order
(Residents of California, please at
sales tax, 3% if in Los Angele
ALL ORDERS POSTPAID
JEAN LONG SH)
251 So. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hil <
66
%®CA -%&jCl %*&Jl\HUA%V. ©4: S©i ttwfrfcW
Black
Red
Royal
Cliartre
Green
Brown
Aqua
White
Sizes I0-2i
Attractively P
$22.95
CENTENNIAL NUGGET
by REMLE of HOLLYWOOD
Add the Midas touch to your leisure with Janice Wallace's fabulous two-piece
pajamas impregnated with 24-karat CHAN GOLD*, flexible as the Ceianese
rayon jersey itself, guaranteed washable. Gold glitters in four rows at neck,
two rows at one wrist. Lavish trousers swirl 55" around each slender ankle.
Joseph Magnin, San Francisco
Wallace & Wallace, Berkeley, California
May Co., Los Angeles
The Blum Store, Philadelphia
Nat Lewis, New York
Battlestein's, Houston
Sanger Bros., Dallas
Bon Marche, Seattle
Meier- Frank, Portland
Harzfeld's, Kansas City
Himmelhoch's, Detroit
Korrick's, Phoenix
Popular Dry Goods, El Paso
Filene's, Boston
B. M. Behrends Co., Juneau, Alaska
Burdine's, Miami, Florida
Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh
Gus Blass, Little Rock, Arkansas
The Emporium, Jackson, Miss.
Halle Bros., Cleveland
John Shillito Co., Cincinnati
Herpolsheimer, Grand Rapids
J. L. Brandeis, Omaha
Flshman's, Fort Wayne, Indiana
G I
FT
PAR EXCELLENCE
\9M
HA
MAGAZINE
<
C |
I V I N G
December i 9 48
''■',<X.-r. •
.»c
•
m
.
? «
^ .-•■ ' '
P
J
1 *§*
Coast-wise and fashion-free ! Dan River's deep -ocean- tone Cotton
California does an about-face this year— picks dark, luminous effect}
for your tropical Wintering. Picks Dan River's Cotton Taffeta in
colors fast to high-noon sun and briny deep alike. Sanforized*,
keeps its fit ever true to you. Dan River Mills, Inc.
Swim suit by Cole of California. Sizes: small, medium, large.
Green, burgundy, plum. About $15 at Bonwit Teller, Philadelphia;
Carson, Pirie Scott & Co., Chicago
* Fabric shrinkage not more than \ct
Bromley
riff fi
vtC (jfaltOK presents "Cantata," his light-as-a-song instep
strap, open toe Featherwedge. Soft suede in black, navy, brown,
gray, copper, kelly green. Calf in red. Sizes 4 to 9, $9.95 MAIL ORDERS
Buff urns'
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
Add 2V4X Slate Sales Tax
THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948
U/ (^e^aT^k^ /^mt^Ke4x/
y-N^ THE ONE AND ONLY
SuspaivtS
UMXALs
THE UNDIE YOU CAN WEAR WITH GARTERS
Say goodbye to costly and uncomfortable girdles
and garter belts! Keep your stockings up
and expenses down with Suspants . . . practically
t a wardrobe all by itself. Wear it as a regular undie
too, without garters, on stockingless occasions.
There's a Suspants style for almost every
gure in a fabric and color that's just to your liking.
Run proof rayon — $-1 .50
Luxurious Nylon —$1.98
Double Woven Rayon — $1.98
Knit with Latonf — $1 .98
Also in a fussy feminine lace trimmed rayon brief — $1.50
.Suspants
LABEL
ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTE
UNDIES • SLIPS * GOWNS
-*i -•i **i,
•»** ^**S* ^*»i*
BLUE SWAN MILLS, Division of McKay Products Corp.
f Reg. U.S. Pal Off.
350 Fifth Avenue, New York 1, N. Y.
THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948
0
e
U/V 7W£ COVER: Blaz-
ing while . . . for the
resort horizon now, for
summer drama later. Lou-
ella Ballerina uses Sea
breeze, a Seagloiv fabric,
for the pert little page boy
jacket, with two-tune Hart
tie oj Coutoure silk shan-
tung, about $20, and man
tailored shorts, about $12.
And the extremely dra
made pleasure ensemble,
slacks with scarf tie, and
picturesque long tunic coat
lined in matching silk
shantung, (not shown),
about $69. Both in sizes
10-16, at J. W. Robinson,
Los Angeles; J. L. Hud-
son, Detroit; Kaujmann's,
Pittsburgh. Stylemasler
shoes. Wreath of an-
therium and golden hibis-
cus by Biltmore Florists.
I0ITOR AND PUBLISHER. J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson
FASHION DIRECTOR...- _ Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR. Virginia Scallon
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlaul
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones,
Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Frances Anderson, Alice Carey,
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART _ Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean,
Ann Harris, Jane Christionsen
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP _ Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
e
3
-
9
California fashions
What Do You See? 21
There's A Bright Day Coming 22
Wonder-Wear For Resort Or Patio 24
Sunshiners For Your Resort Wardrobe 28
Bare Facts 30
California Classics 32
For Country Club or City Living 34
Two-Piecers 36
For Children 42
Cruise Whites 44
Design Ideas From The Studio To You 46
New Suit For The New Year 53
What To Wear In California In December 54
California features
Of Interest In California In December 18
The Story Of The Famous Farmers Market 38
l.oretta Young Sews As She Reaps 45
California living
A House With A View For California Living 48
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown » 50
THE CALIFORN1AN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager.
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 Q'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson &
Associates. 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con-
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulation. Entered a»
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro-
duction in whole or part forbidden unless sperificallv authorized.
ONE
WORLD
I N
FASHION
COHA M A' S
IMPORTED
T OWN PAR
WOOL GABARDINE
superbly fulfills the requirements of sub-
tle line and drama which distinguish
this classic suit by
A D E L E
O F
CALIFORNIA
Imported by Cohama,this luxurious, im-
peccable gabardine again asserts its
leadership as the choice of foremost
designers and smart women-in America
and abroad. In the"OneWorld"of Fash-
ion,one name isoutstanding-Cohama.*
CO HAM A
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS f. MANUFACTURERS, INC. *T. M. Regisiered
AGNES BARRETT
deftly manipulates light
and sbadoiv into a smart
traveler -of Salyna cloth
with its own cotton pique
stole. Navy with white, toast
with beige, pewter with
light grey. Sizes 10 to 18.
29.95
Casual Colony
Des Moines 6,
HE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1941
MAIL ORDERS FILLED PROMPTLY
PERFECT lil! tMSTlMEII . . .
FORT WORTH 1, TEXAS
you'll be a pretty show-off like this in a one-piece dress of
wonderfully sophisticated rayon foulard, in colors to wear under furs now or
with summer accessories later. Pockets concealed beneath impressed pleats!
A
UlJfe
Authentic design by Jery Grinel.
In green, ginger, and ming blue; sizes 10-16. $30
Time to think of the larger woman . . . for her. a dream gown of
finest rayon satin, beautifully cut. rich with Alencon-type lace
on both front and back bodice. Sizes 38-48. about $15.
\^ulLt*iiu LA
At these and other fine stores:
L. Bamberger & Co., Newark
Halle Bros., Cleveland
C. Crawford Hollidge, Ltd., Boston
Marshall Field & Company, Chicago
The May Co., Los Angeles
Montaldo's stores
Sakowitz Bros., Houston
Stix, Baer & Fuller Co.. St. Loui*
OF CALIFORNIA
i 1 7 East Pico Boulevard. Los Angeles
THE CAIIFORNIAN
19 4 8
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
Km as Uifts in the
\jalifornia manner
YARN DOG: This thoroughly housebroken pel,
in yarn, gazes out at you from a blonde wooden
frame. Dog is set in relief. Wonderful for den
or children's room. $5.00, postpaid.
TORSO GLASS AND JIGGER: Ceramic Torso
Glass for highballs, beer. In the shape of a
corset-encased torso, and well-developed, too.
Also use for flowers, plants. Colors: green, yel-
low, pink, blue. $1.25 postpaid. Matching ceramic
jigger holds 1-oz. in bust: a double jigger in
base. $1.00, postpaid.
MINIATURE CHAFING DISH: Something to grace
the dinner table of any home-proud hostess. An
adorable miniature chafing dish of solid copper
and brass. Complete in every detail, including
a heating unit that burns alcohol. Makes a
stunning centerpiece. $3.95 postpaid.
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. fResi-
dents of California, please add 2'/i% soles tax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift iems.
THE CORRAL SHOP
BOK 918 | liniCMO SANTA FE • CALIFOINIA
fctt**--.
L
":16
P
' -.
I «■•
w
'■f- "
v&
v"/.1 y
£&&£
k
WTS
is^l. .ja.
ANKLE-HI . . . another of the new and
comfortable hose made by Willys of Holly-
wood, famous designer for the motion picture
and theatrical world. This nylon anklet sock,
the sheerest made, is of 20-denier DuPont
nylon, with a patented rib top . . . perfect for
active or spectator sportswear and lounging,
Seven delicious flavors: chocolate, raspberry,
cherry, lemon, orange, lime and blueberry.
Sizes 8 to 11, just $1 at Strawbridge &
Clothier, Philadelphia; May Company Wil-
shire, Los Angeles; Sage & Allen, Hartford.
Or write Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. High-
land, Hollywood 38, Calif.
SEE BETTER . . . says this gift. With this
beautiful new type of magnifying glass, you
can give friends "seeing comfort" for years to
come . . . you can read newspaper print a
column at a time, for the 314" lens provides
a large, sharp field of vision. Longview magni-
fies 1x/« times, folds into a handsome plastic
handle. You'll be proud to give, or own, a
Longview. Packed in a gift box, $6.50 postpaid.
If not completely satisfied after 10-day trial,
money will be refunded. Edroy Products Co..
Dept. A, 480 Lexington Ave.. New York 17,
New York.
PURE GOLD ... are the petals that whirl
and swirl with every motion of the bottle
in this exhilarating perfume, so appropriately
named White Christmas. It is the breath of
fresh-fallen snow, heightened by the magic
of nature's woodland. This delicious scent for
the season's glamor touch you'll want for
yourself, and for your friends. White Christ-
mas Perfume is S7.80 the full ounce, includ-
ing the excise lax, 2>4% sales tax in Cali-
fornia. Order now for the holidays, from The
Margorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street. Los
Angeles 15, Calif.
STOP THAT PEEKING . . . here's the
new No-Peek-O, the smart streamlined
aluminum set that prevents peeking in gin
rummy and other card games. It keeps the
cards in neat order, and the cleverly designed
felt base protects your table and prevents
slipping. You'll want several for yourself and
for unusual gifts. They're attractively pack-
aged and available in beautiful shades of blue,
green or red. Postpaid, only $1.00. Sorry, no
C.O.D.'s. Order direct from the Balas Manu-
facturing Company, 3804 Woodland Ave.,
Cleveland 15, Ohio.
THREAD-A MATIC . . . this new automatic
threader, of durable plastic with precision
mechanism, makes it possible to thread needles
with one finger! Easy for children arid adults,
it threads needles from 3 to 9, thread from 36
to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerized.
To simplify your sewing, just $2.95 postage
prepaid. Add 2l/2% sales tax in California,
3% in Los Angeles. Send your orders to
Fred L. Seymour Co.. Box 1176. Beverly
Hills, Calif.
10
THE CAtlFORNIAN
8%w*^-
MOTHEK 'N DAUGHTER EINCHANT-
rRESS ... the popular Enchant-Tress
(scarf-hood), now also for the little miss.
Makes adorable mother and daughter set, at-
Iractive and ever-so-practical. Mother's, in
navy, hunter green, white, gray, red, royal,
telly, brown or black wool worsted jersey,
(3.95. (Also in metallic fabrics for dressy
wear). Daughter's, with gay felt trim on
wool jersey, in red, royal, green, white or
powder, 82.95. At leading department stores
everywhere, or write California Sportlets, 860
S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14, Calif.
HELLO! I'M SUEDEBISCUIT . . . per
feet companion for little boys and girls . . .
grown-ups like this adorable horse, too, for
den, bar and bedroom . . . the grandest
Christmas present, possible. 14" long, 10 Yi"
tall, of the finest quality suede, with brilliant
grained eyes. The insides are soft cotton —
no wires or hard pieces to harm the little
ones. Whiskbroom brushing keeps him clean.
[n tan suede with bright trimmings, Suede-
biscuit is 85.00, postage prepaid. Add 2'/2%
sales tax for Californians, and order from
Suedecraft Novelties, Dept. VS, Box #7158,
Los Angeles 37, Calif.
TIDY TOES . . . Tabbies present this latest
version of the California foot mittens. Styled
for indoor lounging, dorm, patio and pool,
this adorable set features a new two-button
back closing. For comfort and foot glamour.
Tabbies are exciting Christmas news. Soft
satin in black, white or pink; and quilted
chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. Sizes
S-M-L. Send your check or money order for
$3.95 (add 10c tax in California, 12c in Los
Angeles)' to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South
Main, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
DURSTONS HOMEMADE CANDY . . .
most delicious candy you've tasted, made by
IClifford Durston, for twenty-six years a fa-
Imous Los Angeles candy maker. You'll love
[the rich chocolate creams and the crisp
•crunchy nut-filled delights. This variety pack
lincludes pecan nut, vanilla and rum creams;
nougats and almond chips; and mint dips,
|toffee clusters, chewy caramels. This hand-
dipped homemade candy is sold direct from
Durston's, Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif., and
|is yours for just 81.50 the pound, or 82.75
for two pounds, postage paid.
IT'S A RAZOR . . . this ingenious purse-
size blade and base, simulated to look like
a fountain pen. For milady's purse, or the
gentleman's pocket, this compact gold-plated
shaving unit unscrews and the razor head
slides into the base. Five blades are in-
cluded, and the unit uses Schick or Ardel
j blades. Beautifullv gift-boxed and wrapped,
jwith gift card included. 82.50, including par-
,cel post and insurance. Order for yourself
land your friends, from Ireenor Novelties, P.O.
' Box 1172, Grand Central Station, New York
17, New York.
fr«Wlf
Cm*"*
M
>>>*«*■
*
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
K.mas vifts in the
\jalifornia manner
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot con become o
champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes with
complete directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over any
boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid.
MILK SET: Frisky ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching
mug comes with barnyard pictures. Pitcher and
mug, boxed, for $3.95, postpaid.
TINY TEPS: Step up for the youngsters, and very
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint-
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post-
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. 'Resi-
dent', of California, pf ease add 2'/j% soles fax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
IANCHO SANTA !£ • CALIFOINIA
December. 1948
11
HOLLYWOOD'S newest rave at a price made to
order for vou. Harold's drawstring pouch bag
and stunning anklet sandals are made in Hollywood of
beautifully marked genuine unborn calfskin . . _ .
silken smooth and rich as fur. The Pinto bag is
roomy and has a genuine leather drawstring. The
petite Pinto sandals are glamour-styled too, with
flattering ankle straps and gold buckles. Sizes: "hl/i to
9. Fit guaranteed. Bag or sandals can be bought
■eparately.
C. O. D.
IF DESIRED
ORDER BY MAIL FROM HOLLYWOOD
HAROLD'S OF HOLLYWOOD— Dept. 400,
West Branch, Hollywood 46, California.
Please send the following subject to immediate
refund if I am not completely satisfied.
PALM SPRINGS PINTO BAG (ffi $10.95
PALM SPRINGS PINTO SANDALS
@ $6.95 SIZE
Check, money order or postal note enclosed
I will pay the postman full price, plus postage
and C.O.D. charges
Name _ _
Address
Citv
State_
..Zon
EVERY DAY
FROM 11:30
VENTURA BIVD.
1 block west of
Coldwoter Canyon
LA CI ENEGA BIVD
1 Block north of Wilshire
In The January Issue
CUJFOINIAN
presents
• Sun Country Fashions
• California Living
• Wonderful Recipes
Use the coupon attached to this copy!
Make someone's Christmas a happy
one with a gift subscription to
(alifornian
m*-1
POP GOES THE . . . party! And here'*
the modern touch for that old-fashioned fu
vorite. This handsome aluminum Electric Con
Popper makes the popping more fun, whethei
it's for a party or for the family circle
Through its clear glass oven-proof turret yoi
can see the corn pop and fill the bowl. Full
automatic, for AC or DC current, $9.95. Hun
dreds of others in gift catalog CM3. Free
Send your orders to Hammacher Schlemmer
145 East 57th Street. New York 22, Nev.
York.
CATALINA ISLAND "DUCKIES" . .
must on her Christmas list from Catalina
Island. The slipper that has poise . . . made
of tufted chenille. It is comfortable, durable,
noiseless . . . the only slipper of its kind
that is washable. Repeated washings, fluffing
the chenille yarn, will actually improve its-
appearance ! This slipper is exciting Christ
mas news at just $3.75. Available in white,
blue, gold, cherry, aqua. Please add 15c post
age. 2l/2% tax (California only). Sizes 3-9
Send your order to Catalina Casuals. Bm
325, Avalon, Catalina Island, California.
PLEASURE-TIME CLOTHES ... for in
formal entertaining, after-skiing, dancing, re
sort life, or just relaxing. These custom
made clothes are exclusive designs, made to
measure, featuring fine workmanship and best
materials. The white cotton broadcloth blouse,
to be worn on or off-the-shoulder, has beau
tiful eyelet embroidery. Send bust measure.
$14.75 includes tax. The full circular skirt U
rayon gabardine with gay peasant trim. Send
color preference — aqua blue, black or red-
waist measurement and desired length. $17.75
includes tax. Add 25c postage. Victoria Royce.
1012 deYoung Bldg., San Francisco, Calif
ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth
A summery reminder that makes a perfect
Christmas gift is this gay table cloth . . .
just throw it 'round the pole and zip it up!
Hand-printed in attractive basket weave nl
mercerized cotton, richly colored in red and
white; blue and white; or green and white
It fits any garden table, round or square
lust $4.95, postage prepaid. Californians add
2'/£% sales tax. Matching ready-hemmed nap
kins, 18" wide, just 40c each. Send your or
ders to The Margorita Shop. 1018 South Main
St.. Los Angeles 15, Calif.
BEAU CATCHER ... is Phil SockettV
provocative belt for the New Year. I1//' wide,
in 24-karat gold or silver leather, it is de
signed for day-time and date-time ... the
bow is a novel accent between blouse and
skirt, and a smart accessory on basic dresses
and knitwear, too. Gold or silver, sizes 24
to 32. It's just $2.95 at your favorite store,
or write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co., Est. 1925.
1240 S. Mnin St.. I.os Angeles 15. Calif.
12
IME CAIIFORNIAN
r— rmtfis
SHADOW BOXES ... of California red-
wood. You'll want to be the interior decorator
.vith these lovely shadow boxes, the answer
:o "where to keep it." For knick-knacks,
Dhotos, plants, perfumes, miniatures, toys,
spices. 12" square, 3V2" deep. Leave them
natural, paint or stain any color. Set of two
interlocked boxes, $1.75; two sets, $3.25.
Postage paid, add 2]/2% sales tax in Cali-
fornia, 3% in Los Angeles. Fred L. Seymour
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills. Calif.
THE MASQUE ... cuff links, studs, scarf
bolder. Ingeniously designed to accessorize,
these beautiful ceramic masques are hand-
crafted into studs and cuff links for your
blouse; and a clever snap-on kid scarf holder
that holds your scarves firmly without tear-
ing or knotting. The masques, about 1" high.
In your choice of gold or silver. Studs, set
of three, $2.50; cuff links, pair, $1.95; scarf
holder, $1.95. Gift-boxed. (Luxury tax in-
cluded. Add 2^2% sales tax in California, 3%
in Los Angeles). Evelyn Lee Bennett, Dept.
405. 1215 S. Norton, Los Angeles 6, Calif.
TOWLKAPE . . . another California original,
this "three-in-one" combination. Huge terry-
cloth towel (40"x72")with drawstrings ... for
use as towel, cape, or skirt. Ideal for Christ-
mas— for bath and beach, lounging around
patio and pool, it's a pre-summer delight. With
diagonal stripes (shown), tropical fish, or
California pool scene, on white or gold back-
grounds. Pre-laundered, fast color. Towel with-
out drawstrings (menfolks love it, too), $4.95
plus 2y2% sales tax in California, 3% in Los
Angeles. Towlkape, $5.95 plus tax. Send check
or money order to Margorita Shop, 1018 South
Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
DOG LEASH BELT . . . latest innovation
Ion the popular Dog Leash is this ingenious-
belt by Film Star Creations, with a ball point
(fountain pen — it works! Adjustable suede bell.
Sturdy enough for coats, wonderful on skirts
land dresses ... for every schoolgirl and
sportswear outfit. Black, brown, red, green,
cocoa, navy; sizes 24 to 36, just $3.95. Please
add 2'/2% sales tax in California. Sold ex-
clusively by Buffums', Pine Avenue and
Broadway, Long Beach 2, Calif.
SU-Z BABY GIRDLE . . . smoothest fitting,
most comfy panty-girdle ever. 100% power-
net nylon, sewed with nylon thread through-
out, fitted according to weight. Fast drying
(4 hours) ; all elastic nylon garters detach
for wear with slacks; special designing stops
rolling and sliding. Smooth hips and thighs,
keep tummy controlled, order Baby Girdle
. . . fits like second skin, won't cause per-
spiration. Step-in or pantie style. (Photoed
by Lee Angle). Send measurements of your
waist, tummy, thigh and overall weight to
Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon Ave., Los Angeles 43.
Calif. In white, postpaid, just $10.95.
December, 1948
V
1 / /
Ja* SPICES
Ja* LIDS
fo* CLEANSERS
these attractive Dor-File racks are
"Musts" for every home!
The Dor-File spice racks have dozens of uses —
in kitchen cupboards, linen cabinets, bathrooms,
workshops. Keeps small articles handy, saves
space, saves time — easily attached to any door
or wall. 1 2'/2 in. long, 2'/2 in. high, 1 y2 in.
deep. Only 79c each. Special gift package of
3 for $2.29 I
The Dor-File cleanser rack is a brand-new, much
needed item for every home. Ideal for kitchen,
laundry, bathroom. Holds cleansers, washing
powders, soaps, steel wool. It has a dishcloth
bar — handy and for quick drying. lO1/^ in. long.
4 in. high, 5 in. deep — ample room for every,
thing. Only $1.49.
The Dor-File lid rack puts your doors to work,
too — in your kitchen, laundry, broom closet,
linen closet. It easily holds your pot lids, pie
tins and other kitchen flatware, polishes, waxes,
soaps, bleaches, starch — within easy reach. Elimi-
nates cabinet clutter. 11% in. long, 5 in. high,
4 in. deep. A bargain in efficiency for $1.49
Order them individually +,
or a complete set for . . . $3.7/
For delivery in California add 2'/i% sales tax.
SEND CHECK OR MONEY ORDER TODAY TO
FRED L. SEYMOUR CO.
BOX 1176
BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA
Fabric tells the fashion story . . .
based on the staunch honesty of
Westbrooke Sanforized Broadcloth, the quaint romance
of Provincial stripes, charmingly handled by Royal of California.
At better stores in black or beige, sizes 10 to 18. Or write
Koval of California, Los Angeles 14
N . rluegelman & co., inc.
1412 Broadway • New York 18, New York
14
THE CAMFORNI AN
Exquisite negligee whittles your waist with a fitted Alencon lace corselet above lavish, full skirt. Graceful capelet sleeves
and jewelled buttons add a luxury touch . . . Plunging neckline and cocktail hemline on matching gown are generously
appliqued with hand-cut Alencon lace . . . Gloriana crepe-back satin in Bridal White, Ice Blue, Petal Pink, Midnight Black.
32-40 About $35.00 at finer stores
OR WRITE CHIC LINGERIE CO., INC., 1126 SANTEE ST., LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA a
Xs&lfwia. yjitiftnj
December, 1948
15
WIN, PLACE aild SHOW! . . .spectacular spectator sports
trio in Sno-Silk shantung; simple jacket with triple flap button pockets $17.95
Slim skirt that repeats the button pocket motif 14.95
White blouse repeating the color of the suit 10.95
Sft&t*"
Authentic design by Jery Grinel, in kelly,
royal, luggage, gold, white, gray, skipper blue, red; sizes 10-16.
16
THE C A I I FORM I AN
EIRE TO BUY GAINES COAT AND SUIT AS ADVERTISED ON PAGE S2
• jshion-wise Gaines coat and suit
relief on page 52 are available at
, | owing stores:
illiRNIA: Fresno, Betty Shop; North
ll\|>od, Claudia's; Redding, Breslauer's
)tHg Co.; Sacramento, La Verne Shop;
|ir|, Smart Shop; San Diego, Wen-
mjSan Francisco, K. E. C. Fashions.
ILlADO: Boulder, Brooks-Fauber; Colo-
rado Springs, Wood, Meyers; Delta, Ap-
parel Shop; Denver, Hamilton Fur; Long-
mont, Elda's Fashions.
IOWA: Marshalltown, Ellis Company; New-
ton, Helma Cole's; Shenandoah, Ladies
Apparel; Waterloo, Wolf's.
MICHIGAN: Mt. Pleasant, Marianne's Fash-
ion Center.
NEBRASKA: Fremont, Milady's; Omaha,
Topp & Donahoo.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Dorothy's
Style Shop.
OREGON: Salem, M. B. Gilmore.
SOUTH DAKOTA: Watertown. The Fashion.
TEXAS: Baytown, Irene's.
UTAH: Ogden, Brittain's.
WYOMING: Casper, Stuart's Shop.
H U MIDI AL
. tns/f/ve/ Accurate.' New!
MHTJMIDIAL combines in one
weight attractive case a standard
tonometer and a novel, accurate
ve Humidity Indicator. This in-
i sive instrument serves as visual
n regulating humidity, insures
a: num comfort and better health,
I! i against mold and mildew. An
fa tant aid in weather forecasting.
re it for your home and for your
ids.
Just $1.98 postpaid
UifclAL MANUFACTURING COMPANY
K ;onnecKcut Avo., N. W. Washington 6: D.C.
Louise Salinger
I Schools of Dress Designing
^ SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting,
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching.
Modeling. Day and Evening Clas&es.
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood & Oliver
Ave.
Pittsburgh,
Pa.
Atlantic 3855
Shi!; shoes quickly, removes
tm.ges, soil or slush. Cleans
we' shoes and bags. 9/2"x
6" 4" cabinets of solid
wa it, maple or ivory finish,
HI 15 voll A.C.Motorguar-
on! d for one year, 8"sheep-
tki .buffer, satisfied owners
In |iry state.
.Vc lar ge for shipments east
of ckies or west of Alleghe-
tiitpther areas add $1J15.
MONASTER
i'nchesler Machine Co.
ST. JAMES, MO.
Bench Model $21.50
NO MORE CREASES IN YOUR SKIRTS
. . . when you use this newly designed Prac-T-Rack. Holds
six skirts at "a time, yet one can be removed without disturbing
the others. Another useful feature — the rack hangs flat against
door or wall conserving precious closet space. Smoothly
finished in vellow, pink, green, or blue pastels.
An Ideal And Different Gift
Each $3.95
Add 25c for Postage
Sold in 48 states and
all over the world.
PRAC-T-RACK • stillwater 59, new jersey
A SUGGESTION FOR
Chrtstmaa
— It's new! It's useful! It's ornamen-
tal—IMPROVED VISOR COVER,
with pockets, slips on like a glove.
No more searching in glove compart-
ment for sun-glasses, roadmaps, note-
book, comb, etc. Even has mirror and
zippered purse for extra parking
coins. Handsomely bound leatherette,
in blue, maroon or tan. Single cover
$3.00, Pair _ $5.50 postpaid. State
length and width of your visor, color
wanted, make of car. Order early!
AXFORD IMPROVED VISOR COVER CO
tiDb
1524 N. E. 128TH AVENUE
PORTLAND 16, OREGON
Miniature
spinning HUj££ls
An attractive ornament for your home and
an interesting gift. This miniature spin-
ning wheel stands 15" high with a 51/-;"
wheel. Expertly handmade from choice
woods.
It costs only $12.50 Postpaid.
No C.O.D.'s, please.
THOMAS NOVELTY CO.
7y2 Maple Ave. Glen Rock, IN. J.
PLEASING GIFT FOR FLOWER LOVERS
Newest cleverest trick in flower arrangements. Simply
swing Adapto's arm supports across vase top and it's
ready for use. Fits vase lops 3 to 6 inches across. For
a few blooms or many. Orders shipped same day. No
C.O.D.'s, please. Qn|y JJ QQ
Mail orders with remittance to Postpaid
RETKO PRODUCTS, Dept. E, Box 102, Maplewood, N. J.
NAME
Adapto Flower
Arranger
gives poise to your
posies"
STREET.
CITY
ORIGINAL
HAND-COLORED
miniature flower prints. Published
1825-32. All subjects different.
Handsomely framed in black &
gold, antique gold, or maple.
Size 4"x4£4" approx.
PAIR S7.85 ppd.
The perfect answer for Christmas,
•wedding presents, bridge prizes,
etc.
KENNEDY & CO. (,E8S7TJ 785 FIFTH AVE.. NEW YORK 22. N. Y.
PEPPER MILLS $1.60 EACH
Gourmets insist on it, good recipes require
it — freshly ground pepper. These attractive
mills do the job for you, and so econom-
ically; each one is turned from o block of
hardwood and is nicely finished. Get several
for gifts ond at least two for yourself —
one for dining and one for cooking. Stat*
your choice. The economical price, $1 .60
each, postpaid, includes a filling of pepper-
corns. Additional peppercorns 3 oz for 50c.
No C.O.D.'s.
/Zayden, Ballte
Box 1162, Oklahoma City 1, Oklahoma
SHOP THE EASY WAY — BY MAIl
GERWOOD "MAGIC" BRUSH
The Gerwood "MAGiC" Brush has an at-
tractive. Natural Finish, Hardwood Bock
with Revolutionary Sponge Rubber Pad (Re-
placeable) and (Washable). The S I i test Ac-
tion, picks up Hairs, Dust, Lint, Threads
instantly from any Fabric — Home and Car
Upholstery — Velvet, Suede, Felt, etc., LIKE
MAGIC.
EVERY HOME NEEDS ONE
EVERY CAR OWNER NEEDS ONE
"A USEFUL, NOVEL, PRACTICAL GIFT
ITEM"
Send $1.00 to NATIONAL BUYER'S SERVICE,
Box 332, Salem, Oregon. No C.O.D.'s,
please. Postpaid. Satisfaction G no ran teed.
This exquisite shadow showcase for
earrings is entirely handmade. Each
design is an original, created for
those who appreciate the smartest
in tin. The case holds 12 pairs of her
pet ear ornaments on velvet shelves,
protected by a glass front. It stands
on the dresser or hangs on the wall.
Send orders for Christmas gifts.
(Special shelves to hold earrings for
pierced ears, 51 extra).
$10. No C.O.D.'i, please
TWEEDY TIN
Box 226 Downey, Calif.
December, 1948
200 WAYS
TO ALTER A DRESS
Ideas galore for a tired wardrobe. New 80
page book with 250 graphic illustrations.
Pretty, practical remodeling tricks for be-
ginner and expert. A "must" if you sew.
Makes a fashtonwise useful gift.
tend $1.00 Prepaid (add 3c tax Calif.)
The MclNTIRE COMPANY
5225 WILSHIRE BLVD., DEPT. C
LOS ANGELES 36. CALIFORNIA
TlewTELEPHONE SECRETARY
ORDER DIRECT— ONLY $2.65 POSTPAID
Tel-Sec keeps pad and pencil at your finger tips
— in hondy, rigid, pull-out drawer. Ideal for
home, office, shop, store. All metal. Non-
breakable. (Not plastic.) Beautiful enamel fin-
ish matches phone. Installed instantly — simply
map into place. No more hunting for paper
•nx pencil — or writing on wall — uses ordinary
pad and pencil. This is the original, all metal
Tel-Sec, with over 100,000 enthsusiastic users.
Order yours today)
COMPLETE SATISFACTION OR MONEY BACK
Sx7V2 oblong, $2.65; 5x6 oval and 5'/3 round,
$2.»5, 5V2x9, $3.95.
Extra refill pads, 20 for $1.00. No C.O.D.'s.
Dealers invited.
LANKO INDUSTRIES SALES DIVISION
(Exclusive Nat'l Distributor)
±774 Taft Dept. H-11 Detroit 8, Mich.
OF INTEREST IN CALIFORNIA IN DECEMBER
TO EVERYONE . . EVERYWHERE -
«San.ta'& Ckocalt'ate^
WRAPPED . . ADDRESSED . . MAILED
POSTMARKED
tfctect J/ua*n
SANTA CLAUS LAND
A ipeciolly-selecled oiwrtment of truly fine light ond dark
dsot olot.-v, actually moiled from Santa') home. Be original! ' ■■■mi
deiicioui Santa i Chotolotei to the "fovoritei" on your list. Pre-
Cnrntmai delivery, we promiie)
No. 1003 J'A lb. box . . $2.89
No. KXK 5 lb. box $4.95
— — . WRITE FOR TOY & GIFT CATALOG — —
44 HOLIDAY BLVD.
SANTA CLAUS, INDIANA
LIVESTOCK SHOW— Until December
2 in Los Angeles at Union Stockyards.
Rodeo, too.
SANTA CLAUS LANE— Until Decem-
ber 31 along famous Hollywood Boule-
vard, with Santa Claus and movie stars
parading every night.
LAS POSADAS — Mexican players of
Padua hills re-enact "Las Posadas,"
drama of Christmas eve, throughout
December at hillside theatre near Clare-
mont.
CHRISTMAS FESTIVALS— Scheduled
during December in Glendale, Beverly
Hills, Orange County, Manhattan Beach
and many other California communities.
ART EXHIBITS— Until January 22 at
Los Angeles County Art Institute, fea-
turing oil paintings, water colors, sculp-
ture and commercial art.
JUNIOR ROSE BOWL GAME— Tenta-
tively set for December 11 in Pasadena's
Rose Bowl between outstanding junior
college teams, sponsored by Pasadena
Junior Chamber of Commerce.
FOOTBALL— Notre Dame vs Southern
California December 4 in Los Angeles
Coliseum. Professional: Los Angeles
Dons vs San Francisco '49ers December
5 in Los Angeles Coliseum.
(Continued on page 19)
thePiraSETTE
cut ideal GknAAintoA. a^t
O
iPfea !5c to* n CaBI.J
GENUINE LEATHER
RED, GREEN, BLACK & BROWN
0pens7"j" x 7Vz"
Send" orders to
the (leSpcdlvi
15'/2'
CLOCK
FRYING \\
Chriitmai time will 1
years if you give tl
usual electric
Suitable for
summer home
pus room, f
kitchen. Choict
meral colors:
Blue, Red,
or Black. In
less Steel $12.
Traditional C
$18.50. Postpi;
year guarantee'
CLOCK
LAMP
Elegant combina-
tion lamp - clock.
Circle lighted
opal glaas dial.
Mahogany, Wal-
nut or Blond
Hard Maple
case. 10" x 10" x
4", heavy brass trimmed. Lined till
tilting shade 18"xl2" in Aqua, Crai
Green, Gold or Beige. Clock numetj
match. $49.50 plus $3.20 Fed.
year guarantee. Everyone who
like* it.
HARLEY'S CLOCK SH01>
ALTMAN BUILDING KANSAS CITY t\
SHELLED PECA
THE ANSWER TO:
"WHAT TO GIVE?"
For those who desire something
is distinctive, yet sure to be accl
able, these shelled pecans are rj
appropriate. Golden brown and (,
cious, they are carefully sele<
from the finest nuts grown.
3 lbs. $4.45 — 5 lbs. $7.1
10 lbs. $14.00
SHIPPED PREPAID IN THE
CONTINENTAL U. S.
STERNBERG PECAN (
Dept. X I
Jackson, Mississippi
A LETTER TO YOUR CHII
from Santa C/ausi
POSTMARKED FRO1
SANTA CLAUS"
INCLUDES
LETTER, ENVEK
AND 3e POSTA
Imagine the lurpme and child, ih delight when y
youngircr. niece or nephew ©pent a real lc«« '»
Sanlol Eoch letter ha* low* page*, richly printed I
colon, ond moiled poiipoid in a Ihme-eol*' mi web
bearing the authentic "Sonto Cloot" p-cthnarkl Order
tot ewety child on your livt NOWt
<***
"*• WHITE FO« TOY » Gift CATALOG «JV
gaifc(?/hu*&#d
44 HOUDAY BLVD
SANTA CtAlK, IMWAI
18
THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948
Concave
construction.
Built to natural
shoulder line. Suits, coats.
leisure jackets hold shape —
L«.n't sag. Wide full trouser bar
^/enls creasing. Revolving chrome
>ok. The most practical hanger
"H an't chip, crack, break. Always
ti s a lifetime. ORDER NOW.
j ft Packed 6 to a Box.
Ideal for Xmas.
FORGED SILVER
SET!
our wish for a prac-
ft by choosing this three-
tish set of sterling hand-
silver. A spoon for jeKics
diments, a pick for olives,
r lemons, and a cheese
r. They are $3.60 each,
per set, tax included.
25c.
c rm to the entrance of mansion
M. Pictured above, set #14, only
yfjilivered. Seven other beautiful
ftni. filagreed scrolls in sets from
It] $12.50 delivered. Order today
ft\or Bulletin #552-B.
^vKrd A. DAUM CO.
W'linglon Rood, Pittsburgh 16, Po.
OF INTEREST IN CALIFORNIA IN DEGEMBER
(Continued from page 19)
HORSE RACING — Beautiful Santa
Anita Park opens December 28 near
Pasadena for 50 days of racing.
ART EXHIBIT— At Pomona College
until December 20, collection of an-
cient Chinese paintings assembled by
Kenneth E. Foster.
VIENNA CHOIR BOYS— In concert
December 19 and 20 in Los Angeles
Philharmonic Auditorium. In Santa
Barbara December 22.
BALLET RUSSE— Opens December 10
for ten performances in Los Angeles
Philharmonic Auditorium.
IN SAN DIEGO— Community Players
present "Junior Miss" in Old Globe
Theatre December 3 to 18.
HOROWITZ — Famous pianist at Los
Angeles Philharmonic Auditorium De-
cember 7.
SYMPHONY— Concert by Los Angeles
Philharmonic Orchestra December 14
at Fox-Arlington Theatre in Santa Bar-
bara.
NEW YEAR'S DAY— Festivities high-
lighted by Tournament of Roses parade
and Rose Bowl game in Pasadena.
East-West Football Game in San Fran-
cisco's Kezir Stadium to benefit Shrine
Crippled Children's Fund.
KNITTER'S DELIGHT
FOR A PERFECT GIFT!
Dunle those knitters on your gift list with a HERO GIFT KIT! Cleverly c
rayon moire kit, handily carried in knitter's bag. An ideal gift combination! Red, blue,
Mack, green and rose, also stripes and plaids. {We reserve the right to ship color of
n choice.)
KIT NO. 1116 (Large Kit) Priced: $12.75. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 14" S. P. Alu
Needles; 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum Needles; 5 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins;
1 Plastic Knit Count; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 4 Plastic Crochet Hooks; 1 Gauge; 1 Ruler.
KIT NO. 1115 (Small Kit) Priced: $7.95. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminui,,
Needles; 6 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins; 1 Plostic Stitch Holder; 1 Plastic Knit
Count; 1 Plastic Crochet Hook.
MARGORITA SHOP - iois south main street -losangelesis, California
DECORATIVE -GOOD TO EAT
Exciting double aluminum cake mold makes your favorite fruit
cake ... a gay birthday ' 'family tree' . . . lovely small-
wedding cake. Complete baking instructions and decorating
ideas for yummy applesauce tree, snow tree, Christmas tree,
chocolate evergreen. Full size cake. Perfect gift to thrill a
homemaker.
Order Today — Prompt Attention
$5.00 Prepaid
MclNTIRE METALS CO.
5225 WILSHIRE BLVD. • DEPT. C • LOS ANGELES 36, CALIF.
PICNIC STOVE and INCIN
26" high — 2l" ave. diam. Ready to use, no bricks,
stones, or labor required.
Beautiful tree stump garden fixture of heat resist-
ing reinforced Haydite concrete, stained dark brown
. . Burns trash or any solid fuel safely. Equipped
with charcoal pan, and grate. Grills, Broils, Bar-
becues. Stands all weather.
only Sig en :°;j0rp,ive
l 7 mJ \* writs to
W. 0. JOHNSON CO. Dept. C, Omaha, Nebr.
TOR
KLIP-ON LAMP
This novel Klip-On Lamp clips right on
your book, where it won't interfere
with turning of pages. Weighing less
than 6 ounces, it's engineered for cor-
rect light. For close work, reading in
bed, use in hotels, hospitals, on trains,
for nursery night- light, you'll find this
the most convenient lighting yet de-
vised. Modern design in ivory plastic,
with an 8-foot cord, just $2.00 postage
prepaid. Send check or money order,
BETTINA NOVELTIES
P. O. Box 3822 Richmond Heighti, Mo.
The Christmas Gift for the
Man Who "Has Everything"
Give him a 1949 Dartnell Personal Record Book
— the aristocrat of appointment, memo and
personal desk books. He will use it every day
on his desk at home, at the office or on trips.
For 25 years the Dartnell has been the choice
of top business executives, professional men,
high army and navy officers.
Hand bound in luxurious imported leather with
gilt edges. Size 5x8 inches. 200 pages for
appointments and personal memos. 200 pages
of useful data. A place to keep track of an-
niversaries, golf scores, investments, income tax
deductions, etc. Lists best hotels in leading
cities, railroad and air fares, road mileages, etc.
In beautiful gift box & C Cf\
Name imprinted in go/a1, 30c extra. h'^'*'^
DARTNELL CORPORATION
1801 Leland Ave., Chicago 40, HI.
An-CoaLd HOLDERS
for Corn on the Cob...
IhEY'RE BEAUTIFUL...
They're here at last — they won't come
out — Gleaming solid metal holders for
corn on the cob; now eat with perfect
pleasure — Handles kept cool by modern,
turned air-space fins— Easily twist into corn
cob ends— Won't break or melt or bend
— Ideal gift for every family, everywhere!
1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plote) $2.95
2. Service for 3 {Silver Plate)
3. Service for 4 {Chrome Plate)
4. Service for 4 (Silver
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax.
POSTPAID -CASH, CHECK OR MONEY ORDER
HACKER
^CORPORATE
BOX 312 -CULVER CITY, CALIF.
4.95-
3.95
Plotel 6.50'
a new kind of fashion store
There's a new kind of store in Los Angeles. It's a store that's long been famous in New York
for highest fashions and lowest prices. When a New York woman has sky-high taste and
ground-gripping budget, she heads for this store. Its name is Ohrbach's.
Now this store has come to Los Angeles.
Millions of thrifty shoppers pay rock bottom prices at Ohrbach's in New York for coats, dresses,
shoes, hats— for all kinds of clothes for the whole family. Now Los Angeles people will pay
these same prices . . . and not a penny more !
Ohrbach's in Los Angeles has values from all the fashion centers on earth— New York,
Paris, and of course California itself!
You'll enjoy shopping here. The store is brand new, big, beautiful. All merchandise is out in
the open, easy to get at. There are history making values in everything, for everybody. Don't miss
a shopping trip to Ohrbach's— soon !
ohrbacK
Wilshire Boulevard— Miracle Mile
Los Angeles
20
THE CAUFORNIAN, December. 1 9 4 I
what do
you
see
It's almost tomorrow, the tomorrow that is 1949. Somehow a new year means
beginning, means change ... so why not make all your tomorrows a change
for the better? Look into your mirror and what do you see? Are you ready
for the wonderful things you expect of next year . . . ready and
waiting? Or do you feel it's time to change your outlook, perhaps even the way
you look? Maybe just a new hair style or a new color chart
for cosmetics and clothes is the insignificant "change" that will
brighten your future. And while you're looking ahead, just turn the pages
and bask in the reflected warmth of our sunshine clothes. We show them
now for tonic inspiration, and because we think very shortly you
will want to choose your sunshiners . . . for resort wear now
(if you're lucky enough to be traveling) . . . for California wear soon (if
you live here) . . . for pure wardrobe excitement (if you're smart and
buy sun clothes when first resort collections reach the stores.)
We give you something new for a change . . . revivifying, conversational,
wonderful change!
»
■■*•
*■***
•
■
Before you know it, you'll be courting the sun ... in flirtatious two-
piecer like this by Louella Ballerino, above. Bates cotton, organdy flounces;
sizes 10-16, under $40 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; A. Harris, Dallas.
•^— \^ insome ways for lazy days interpreted by Catalina in a satin lastex
swimsuit with shining coin dots, sizes 32-38, about $9 at Younkers, Des
Moines; City of Paris, San Francisco; Wanamaker's, Philadelphia.
There's
a Bright Day
Coming
23
< \jg
Wonder-wear for resort or patio . . . Pat Premo's two-piece cotton with wrap-around bodice of Fuller's
Jungle Fire print. Bright color flickers against dark backgrounds.
Sizes 10-18, about $45 at Best's Apparel, Seattle; Gimble Bros., Pittsburgh.
2 4
■1
Take to the sun-ways . . . left, Casual Time's strapless dress and stole in paisley print. Sizes 9-17,
about $23 at Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. Right, perennial pongee with
fascinating neckline by Joy Kingston. Sizes 10-16. under $50 at Carson's, Chicago.
25
Look to one side for newest fashion notes . . . left, windowpane stripes draped to the side
with plain bodice; also striped bolero, it's about $25 the set: Tabak of California.
Right, Lynn Lester's eye-catcher of Celanese Indanese, about $23 at J. J. Haggarty. Los Angeles.
'Multicolor dots on wonderful, wearable jersey . . . we show it in flattering, snowy white
but you'll find it in a wide range of colors to wear to holiday parties or your favorite resorts.
Designed by Georgia Kay, sizes 10-18. about $27 at Bullock's. Los Angeles: Dayton Co.. Minneapolis.
^nn
*
#?
--
*
*$»
id4
GEORGIA BULLOCK
ADDIE MASTERS
MARJORIE MONTGOMERY DE DE JOHNSON
sunshiners for your resort wardrobe
F. B. HORGAN
CONNIE FOSTER
FAY FOSTER
Ifc^-S
v,f"Vi
./
'#
AGNES BARRETT
OODGARB
CALIFORNIA
lP*~^-\
K
NORMAND IN
ROBERTS
/J
Bare
Facts
With the vogue for bare shoul-
ders so persistent this spring, you're
sure to want at least one boldly bare
dress for yourself. Whether or not
you have an enviably perfect figure,
you'll find you can wear California's
newest sun fashions because our de-
signers have so many tricks to make
bra tops fit snugly, beautifully. We've
seen them use soft feather boning,
shirr and drape and even pad the
bosom to make the bodice look ap-
pealing. Besides, almost every sun
dress has its own optional shoulder
straps (very special social security)
or even a bolero or stole for more
modest maidens. It requires only a
quick look in the mirror to decide
whether your shoulders are pretty
enough to expose! Timely exercise
and massage right now will help
you develop lovely rounded con-
tours; nourishing creams and lotions
applied conscientiously will enrich
the skin so that very shortly you can
proudly bare your shoulders for
beauty.
Left, Dan River cotton sun dress
with feather-boned bodice, frivolous
eyelet stole; W. R. Darling, about $13
30
Sunshine and stoles go together over bare-top fashions like this by Lynn Lester, part of four-piece play set
in Fluegelman pique: boned bodice, play suit, skirt, stole, all together for about &25.
31
Here is another one of those
wonderful California classics
with unexpected flashes of
color: Ken Sutherland
designed this washable gabardine
suit with multicolor seersucker
facing to match in-or-outer
blouse. You'll love it for
deck promenades or early sun
season-ing anywhere. In sizes
10-20, it's about $50 at Carson's,
Chicago: J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles.
Perfectly ladylike: worldly
linens for country club or
travel. Left. Lou Kornhandler'g
crisply tucked version with
bias cut sleeve details, fresh
as spring; sizes 10-20, about $40
at Bullock's, Los Angeles:
Stix-Baer-Fuller. St Louis.
Right, from House of Meredith.
intricate blending of three
shades of linen, tab pockets;
sizes 10-18. about
For Country Club
or City Living
FRANK STIFFLER
Soft and altogether feminine . . cool and cut-out, fashioned by
Carl Naftal of washable rayon, above. Sizes 10-18 and 9-17, about
$25 at Desmond's, Los Angeles. Versatile shantung dress from
Dale Hunter, right. Sizes 10-20, about $15 at Buffums', Long Beach.
BBH
34
Pat Premo combines a bright cotton plaid jumper dress and plain sleeveless blouse. Sizes
10-16, under $35 ac Carson's. Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Best's Apparel, Seattle.
35
You'll love these two-piecers . . . left, separate bolero on boned
pique sun dress by M. R. Fleischman, about $27; jacket-dresses of
Dan River cordspun . . . center, Lil Alice junior styles with ric-rac,
about $15; right, stripes in contrast, about $11, Lady Alice.
Two to one. you'll vote for these first-dippers of spring, left.
two-piece seersucker playsuit by Catalina. about $8: right, one-piece
strapless satin-y faille by Caltex with heart-'n'-dart pattern.
about S20 at May Company, Los Angeles; Carson's. Chicago.
37
You Gan Eat It Here If You Want To
. . . But Most People Take It Away
Cobino Wright, Sr. and Roger Dahlhjelm
A lmost every crossroads community in the world
. . if anything can be grown in the soil . .
has a farmers market. It's a familiar sight in Iowa
or Italy, in Mexico or high in the Chilean hills.
Farmers for generations have pooled their perish-
able produce, their finest jellies, jams and needle-
work, their unique handicraft for tourists and
city folk to buy. But in ballyhooed Los Angeles
style, of course, none can match for sheer variety
and ingenuity the famous Farmers Market at Third
and Fairfax in America's fastest-growing big city.
There, every week day, more than 20,000 hungry
and curious from 48 states and the rest of the
world converge on 112 stalls on a sprawling 14
acres to nibble an enchilada, buy a stuffed black
Turkish fig, bagel or a beagle, an afternoon frock,
a parakeet, a bunch of French endive or a gate-
leg table. His Honor, Y. Meherally, Mayor of
Bombay, bought a mango.
Millions of people have shopped its fantastic
stalls in 14 years. Farmers Market has become
a must for the tourist . . just as Huntington Library
and Mount Palomar.
"Let's have lunch at the Farmers Market" is a
popular proposal . . from housewife or movie
star . . and the bright umbrellas shade the who's
who of moviedom and international society. The
less glamorous, too, rub shoulders as they gather
their lunches, bit by bit, from the various stalls,
capture tables with friends and as-
semble their exciting food. For noth-
ing is drab nor conventional. There's
an extra zip to the tamales. a few
more shrimps in the salad, a coun-
try-good richness in the old-fashioned
ice cream. Farmers Market is not
for the poor. True, prices are not ex-
orbitant in light of today's food in-
dex, but the careful shopper won't
find many bargains . . rather, the
epicurean can find the finest and the
rare.
Farmers Market began in strictly
rural fashion in 1934, the gastro-
nomical brain-child of a Minnesota Swede. Roger
Dahlhjelm had been employed as a part-time book-
keeper at the Happy Oven Bakery and Tea Room
on Hollywood Boulevard. Earnings per week: Four
dollars in cash and every last date-nut sandwich
he could eat. That was the height . . or depth . .
of the depression, and a lot of people did a lot'
of thinking. Dahlhjelm realized that a date-nut
sandwich is fine for lunch if you haven't had one-
for breakfast.
Being somewhat of an altruist, the graying,
slender man thought specifically of local farmers -j
who were operating unprofitable roadside stands.
If only they could be assembled centrally in a
city location, they would constitute an in-town farm
market where consumers could buy fresher produce?
direct. Dahlhjelm had acquired an appreciation for
publicity, having been in his time promoter of a
two-car street railway in Lewiston, Idaho, organizer^
of a number of land deals, banker, newspaper
auditor, operator of a country store, horse trader, .'
and Seattle agent for the Stanley Steamer. His
first step was to interest Fred Beck, advertising:
and publicity man. Beck encouraged the idea.
Dahlhjelm set out in a borrowed car to 9pread
word of his plans to local farmers. They listened,
as did their wives who pictured piles of gilt ex-
changeable for home-made pies and cakes, jams
and jellies, and maybe a little homespun needle-
work.
One thing more was necessary . . a location for
the enterprise. The stubborn Swede didn't give
up when likely prospects failed to see the possi-
bilities. Eventually he gained the attention of Earl
B. Gilmore, who then and now lives in a historic
adobe built in 1828. main house on the farm of
pioneer Californian Arthur Fremont Gilmore. The
farm's principal crop over the years had changed
from grain to milk to oil, the latter proving most
profitable. But as Los Angeles had grown, the Gil-
more oil fields had become surrounded with resi-
dences, and zoning ordinances had stopped drilling
operations. The fringes of the farm on Beverly
Boulevard, Fairfax Avenue and Third Street were
i]
31
Los Angeles' Farmers Market mushroomed from a tomato stand into an international affair
;cupied with a miscellany of strange ventures . . a
out-casting pond, a dog track, a turtle course and
ie brand-new Gilmore Stadium. Corner of Third
d Fairfax was utilized mainly as a sandlot
seball diamond. It has been said that when
arl Gilmore agreed to "lend" his now important
imer to Dahlhjelm he wasn't paying much at-
ntion to what was going on, but it would be
ore accurate to state that the astute Gilmore
w a great deal of merit in the plan.
On a July morning in 1934 when the neighbor-
ed kids met on the vacant lot for their base-
ill game, they found the bases loaded. Dahlhjelm,
doubtful credit at the time, had induced a lum-
:r yard manager, one Mr. Burnaby, to trust him
r a load of 2 x 4's. A tent and awning man had
ipplied several bolts of gay awnings on the cuff.
>m Wormley, one-man construction crew, pound-
every which way to have the market ready to
>en the following Saturday.
Meanwhile, Fred Beck, also working on credit,
id persuaded KNX, then a local radio station,
make available some air time so that local
rmers could be informed of the coming market-
ace. He chose a time of day when the farmers
Duld be in their fields, fully aware that the pub-
:, more attentive to what it overhears, would prick
its ears. Los Angeles housewives did just that,
ie announcements invited the farmers to come to
e new market, bring with them their best and
eshest produce and sell directly to the consumer,
it that if the berries on the bottom of the box
ere not as good as the berries on the top of the
)x, "we'll throw you out of here fast, farmer."
Came Saturday. The Fanners Market was ready
d it looked for all the world like an Indiana
izaar on the lawn of the First Methodist Church.
dozen farmers displayed their dawn-fresh fruits
id vegetables on the simple pine counters of the
nvas-covered stalls. The original 18 included
ie where the good sherries of California were
ligoted direct from the cask, a display of home-
ade fudge, a hamburger stand which utilized a
rosene stove, and a few other shoestring enter-
"ises. A drove of housewives arrived . . on a
rk . . and apparently had the time of their lives.
Elsa Lanchester and Charles Laughton prefer the Farmers Market's nippiest cheese. Nipl
Mary Perry, Bill Eythe and Joan Lorring, above. A lalapaloosa sundae, above, gets Robert Stack
Hurd Hatfield, below, can promise sweet desserts The lovely Lynn Bari, below, shops at Mirandy's
There's chatter with
the chutney when Angelenos
gather in the shade at
Farmers Market to lunch
informal like
A typical market street scene, below, with civic convenience
The popular Bill's Bread Bin advertises "Buns But No Bananas"
Tourists . . Celia Stein, lower left. Rev. W. H. Hohman, Ohio
At lower right is a good example of the market "carriage trade"
■' X BHS
One tomato grower who had sold out his complete
stock announced to Dahlhjelm that he was going
back to his ranch for more. He returned quickly
and again piled his stall high with tomatoes. Sus-
picious, Dahlhjelm elicited the information that he
had bought his afternoon stock at a bargain mar-
ket a few blocks away. "So what?" the farmer
said, "these dames will never know the difference."
True to its advance advertising, the management
"'threw him out of here fast."
Dahlhjelm's strict policing of quality has been
a major factor in the growth of Farmers Market.
Today, if a retailer should resort to questionable
practices, he would quickly meet a similar fate,
although under state law a thirty days' notice to
quit the premises might apply.
Farmers Market hasn't sailed a clear and un-
troubled course through its 14 years. In the be-
ginning the little market had no electric wiring,
no plumbing, no telephone; its banking was done
from the frayed inside pocket of Dahlhjelm's
coat ; it was unhindered by experts, and it had no
sanitary facilities. This last-named shortcoming
came to the attention of authorities who pointed out
that public places must be provided with certain
conveniences. Dahlhjelm, with his usual capacity
for direct action, retained the services of a youth
who owned a Ford touring car. The vehicle op-
erated on a continual belt-line basis between the
Farmers Market and Gilmore Stadium which did
have running water. There were two simple signs
on the jaloppy . . on one side, "Women," and on
the other side, "Men." It is said to have been a
pretty sight whisking through the dusty fields. The
system stood up legally until Roger Dahlhjelm's
cash on hand was sufficient to begin a series of im-
provements that are continuing to this day.
The first winter, which in those days brought
rains to California, left the market soggy and
swollen and the farmer tenants doubtful and de-
spairing. Only the indomitable spirit of Dahlhjelm
kept the small band together. At last the sun
shone again and people smiled. The next spring
found the Farmers Market operating with renewed
vigor. Seeing the crowds gathered to buy berries
and corn and melons and home-made pies, the
butcher and the grocer were quick to spot the
location as well suited to food retailing. The plan
TWENTY THOUSAND HUNGRY AND CURIOUS GO TO FARMERS MARKET EVERY DAY
appealed to Dahlhjelm.
too, who saw an op-
portunity to develop a
complete food center.
Building began anew,
to the delight of the
head man whose favor-
ite music is the sound
of hammer on nail.
Dahlhjelm and hi*
immediate associates
have never at any time
been in the food re-
tailing business. Tech-
nically, their operation
Grandma may buy sleepy-eyed pup mav \>e regarded as real
estate, but the no-lease policy under which the
market operates provided Dahlhjelm with con-
trol. Today applications for space run as high as
300 a month and nothing is for rent or for sale.
In its first years Farmers Market gained enough
momentum with its faithful following of house-
wives to have established itself as an irresistible
force. And then it ran smack into an immovable
object in the shape of a hungry woman, too hungry
to go home for lunch. Then, too, there were tastier
morsels at the Farmers Market than in Mrs. Groan-
er's larder. By this time specialty shops were fea-
turing prepared foods to take out . . . tempting
items like boysenberry pie, baked beans, salads,
cream puffs, baked ham. It was the ham at eight
cents a slice (this was in 1936) that weakened
Birdie Groaner. Birdie found an old melon crate,
deposited herself, opened her package of meat,
tossed the wrappings into the aisle, and ate the
slice of ham . . with relish. Other shoppers began
to eat-on-the-spot. One woman who was even hun-
grier than Birdie Groaner bought a bun to go
around her slice of meat. And then the inevitable
. . it was reported to Roger Dahlhjelm that some-
one had arrived at the Farmers Market for the
express purpose of eating lunch!
The practice of eating right out in the open
was disturbing to the manager at first because it
sidestepped the original purpose of the market.
It was also making the place unsightly, what with
Jane Q. Public eating her merry way from stall
to stall, leaving in her wake rind from a fresh dewy
melon, a paper plate licked clean of sauerkraut.
a gnawed-on drumstick, and the crust of some
blueberry pie. Not very neat. Messy, in fact. And
Roger Dahlhjelm didn't like that. Signs about
keeping the place clean were posted but very
few people take time to read when they're hungry
. . so a pie plate picker-upper was employed. Then,
of course, people began wanting to sit down to
eat, and there weren't enough empty melon crates
to accomodate them. Roger added chairs, then
tables, then gay umbrellas to keep the sun from
melting the hot fudge sundaes . . then girls to clean
off the tables. Just like that the Farmers Market was
also a restaurant . . greatest outdoor eating place
in the country. Shops specializing in seafood, fried
chicken, enchiladas, chow mein and pastries ap-
pealed to the local gourmets.
As the unorthodox market flourished not every-
one realized the potency of publicist Fred Beck's
ramblings in printed form. Before long these took
the shape of a daily column in the Los Angeles
Times wherein Beck told the ladies how fully
packed were the ears of corn, how stringy the
beans, or to lay off the tomatoes because they'd
be better next week. Housewives served Beck's
column with breakfast until friend husband be-
gan reading it and found that Beck also made
mention of such solid stuff as corned beef, apple
pie and the barber shop.
By this time, too, the market had sprouted of)
in another direction. Specialty shops devoted to
silvercraft, furniture, products of Mexico, Brazil
and Guatemala, stationery, clothing, hardware, took
shape on the north side of the parking lot. These
wares also were noted in the ad-in-the-Times, as
were any incidents that might interest friends of
the market. Folks began to send clippings "back
east." Magazines such as Reader's Digest, Satur-
day Evening Post and Time have done their best
to explain the unusual market place.
Roger Dahlhjelm, who lives in a small apart-
ment on top of the market, maintains the same
kind of control he applied the first day. Fred
Beck, who kept the public whimsically aware of
what's new and in season, only recently began
writing a column for the new Los Angeles Mirror.
Earl Gilmore is just offstage. Bob Garrick writes
advertising copy. And each day, except Sunday,
thousands of people come to shop and stay to
eat at Los Angeles' amazing Farmers Market.
Christmas means secrets and surprises! Mary Cheeley's
brother and sister ''Mother Hubbard" set. Bates cotton
right. Bright-eyed miss in Mildred's plaid taffeta.
batiste and lace blouse, below. I'int-sized denim chap
overalls with red plaid shirt: Lmrie-Pizer. lower right.
What's more fun than fussy party dresses? Ruffles and
bows on Christmas dresses of warm fabrics such as this
one. left, of wool challis with tiny lace edging. Right.
velveteen in black, blue and red combined with crisp plaid
taffeta. Both by Jean Durain. perfect for HI' miss.
A.M. MINER
\
\
\
**V.
KOZIK-SAPIRO
Cruise whites, and always right . . . Kay Saks appealing trio in Botany gabardine. Left, suit with rounded yoke,
club collar, about $80; center, love of a coat, belted or not. about $100; right, beautiful coming and going, the slim
suit with pearl button details, about $90. At City of Paris. San Francisco: Smartwear-Irving Saks. Roanoke: Sako-
witz Bros., Houston. Hats. Agnes Originals. So perfect for summertime, white is your most exciting choicp for now!
LORETTA YOUNG SEWS
AS SHE REAPS
She makes many of her dresses
gives sewing tips to yon
JUST as some women like to spend their extra-curricular
hours with a paint brush or a hand of bridge, Loretta
Young prefers to make neat rows of stitches in dresses,
doilies, aprons and bed jackets. It started when Loretta
. then Gretchen . . . was in convent school and has
continued to this day. Through years of success as a
motion picture star, crowned by her achievement in win-
ning the Academy award, Loretta Young has made her
own dresses for sportswear and home. Sewing is one of
her every day activities, and she has some good tips
for you.
When daughter Judy arrived she found still another
outlet for her sewing talents. It was fun making minia-
ture, fluffy dresses which were much like the ones she
had made for her dolls as a child. Then there were the
dainty presents she made for her girl friends all year
'round. On a movie set between "takes," Loretta can
complete a fancy blouse and mentally rehearse lines and
action for the next scene . . . keeping her hands busy and
thereby relaxing her nerves.
Loretta enjoys cutting out her own patterns on the
floor. For fittings she uses a dressmaker's model of her
own figure. She prefers fine handwork, but for larger
articles, such as dresses, she uses an electric sewing
machine. And she is a thrifty shopper, going from
store to store to find the texture and design of the
fabric she needs . . . and at the price she wants
to pay. "I have to budget myself on ma-
terials," she says, "because if I didn't, I'd
simply get carried away."
Analyzing it, Loretta points out that a
sewing hobby need not run into great ex-
penditure. The best patterns, couturier de-
signs, are at most two dollars. The average
pattern costs from 25 to 50 cents. Dress-
maker's models are available, made to your
own measurements, at a reasonable price
at almost every department store notions
counter. You need not buy a sewing ma-
chine . . . the latest models usually are
offered for home rental. And the fabrics
you will need can fit your budget.
A simply-designed sport dress
Loretta suggests that any beginner should start her
sewing hobby by using patterns and following every
direction to the letter ... no matter how minute. "First
learn to sew properly, then start improvising if you must.
Personally, I enjoy finding a becoming design and mak-
ing it up in several different fabrics. When you're able
to do this, you can make your wardrobe a happy one . . .
full of comfortable, good line dresses."
Making hand-sewn Christmas gifts for her friends is
one of Miss Young's pet pastimes, because she believes
they attest to personal thought and care and thereby
compliment the recipient. She incorporates favorite color
combinations and laces, monograms and nicknames, label-
ing them with greater friendliness and warmth than any
gifts she could buy.
Here are Loretta's tips on sewing she learned the
hard way:
1. Never let a good idea be forgotten. Put it down on
paper the moment it occurs to you even if you consider
you have two left hands in the artistic line (as I doi.
Later on you may be able to elaborate on it.
2. Never put aside a job of sewing no matter how dis
gusted you may become. Keep going! (I almost tore up
two dresses in the making which are now my favorites! )
3. Don't be too proud to take suggestions, or even
lessons, from a friend or a professional seamstress
You never learn enough about sewing.
Study your best and worst figure features,
then design your clothes accordingly. Don't
let fickle fashion push you into wearing
unbecoming styles.
5. Study the colors of your fabrics in vari-
ous lights before buying them so you won't
be fooled when it's too late to return the
material.
6. Concentrate on one strong accent in each
garment you design and make . . . th*-
buttons . . . the print . . . the soutache braid.
"Nothing inspires so awesome nor en-
viable an expression on a woman's face as
when she admires your outfit and you are
able to say 'I made it myself!"
the handiwork of Loretta Young
Design Ideas From the
C\ reate clothes for yourself exactly the way the)
would do it in Hollywood! We took two sample;
of beautiful Cohama fabric to Mary Wills, designei
at Samuel Goldwyn Studios, and asked what it
would inspire her to make . . . something dra
matically different for you.
"The fabric speaks for itself," said she, im
pressed by the decorative wool with glittering gol
threads interwoven . . . and promptly designed!
this pattern for a new coat, fuller and more fem-
inine than ever. Sufficient to keep you warm, en-
livened by a real idea right from a studio designer
. . . here is a dream of an evening coat, with
Watteau back if you like it. Line it or just bind
the inside seams. It's simple to make, simply
lovely to wear.
The metalaine wool is 52 inches wide, with non-
tarnishable metallic lustre.
On the opposite page is an evening gown in the
pure silk Cohama print. This fabric design, says
Miss Wills, is so lovely she would keep the cut
of the dress simple: bodice fitted easily, skirt
folded or gathered with extra fullness for rich-
ness . . . waist and neckline where they are most
becoming to you.
For the extra couturier touch, make dramatic
flowers of the silk print pattern (insets will show
you how), and put them on bodice, or on a cape
or coat you might make of fine linen or pure silk,
repeating a bright hue of the print. This Cohama
pure silk print is 40 inches wide.
Mary Wills has just completed designs for Sam-
uel Goldwyn's "Enchantment." starring Teresa
Wright and David Niven.
u '
Studio to You
A HO US *t
simplicity and beauty of design
note the decorative planting
Glass watts and doors look onto spocious hilltop terroce
/ITH A VIEW FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
|n sitting on top of the world!"
it was a popular refrain a few years ago, but it's just as applicable
ay for Mr. and Mrs. L. N. Bell, whose contemporary house in Southern
lifornia overlooks the myriad of lights of Hollywood on one side, the
tad stretches of famed San Fernando Valley on the other. And. from
ir unusual vista on Woodrow Wilson Drive, they enjoy another en-
ble position. John Lautner designed complete and casual living for
m . . in a house that is entirely independent of interior decoration.
Constructed principally of redwood, glass and brick. Lautner's creation
emblematic of the trend in California . . utility with comfort, beaut>
hout gingerbread, practicability with the size of your budget in
cud. Five rooms that are different consume approximately 1300 square
t at a building cost today of $12 a foot. A covered car port accounts
an additional 480 square feet. The Bells' living room is set on an
lie to appreciate every good view, glass walls almost completely sur-
rind it and the loggia which encompasses their dining room area. One
iroom has become a den. and sliding panels in the partition between
cling area and kitchen afford an unimpaired view of the house. Every-
Bng has been designed for easy upkeep, for maximum enjoyment.
: jLautner. a disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright, has provided built-in
cpinets in the bedrooms and kitchen, open shelves and sky lights in the
;|ltgia. an outdoor barbecue backing the living room fireplace, grease-
|bof linotile floors for the kitchen and bathroom, interior planting that
•■elphasizes the California feeling All these, and more, are his contri-
-l|tion to those who appreciate luxurious, casual comfort . . the essence
■ the California Way of Life.
John Lautner's unconventional ideas
of casual comfort provided the design to
beautify the basic . capture the sun
DONALD HiGGINS
Redwood partition separates kitchen from dining area, above
Two views of living room, left, show approach from kitchen
through loggia and closeup of inviting fireplace-book-nook
CALIFORNIA
CALIFORNIANA who must have snow at Christmas, have
it . . they go to the mountains. The rest of us stay at home
and enjoy our Yule log and our stockings, our eggnog and
our oyster stuffing, with never a thought for the sleet and
the slush and the chill bitter winds that we're not missing.
We're not missing any fun, either. Even if the high cost
of everyday living has put a crimp in our holiday giving,
we can still have the fun of making gay little gifts for every-
one , . especially for the children. Children are the most im-
portant part of any Christmas and ihey all adore Christmas
cookies . . cookies cut in wondrous shapes, bedecked with
icing and looped with ribbon so that they will hang on the
tree. They'll adore them because they will be their very own,
either marked with their own names or in the shape of their
own favorite toy or pet. They'll adore them because, when
Twelfth Night comes around and the other tree ornaments
are packed away for another year, they can at least eat their
cookies . . a last wonderful taste of Christmas.
CHRISTMAS TREE COOKIES Sift together 7 cups of flour and
a tablespoon of salt. Cream 2 cups of shortening, beat in 1
and 1/3 cups of sugar and 4 whole eggs, one at a time, and
flavor with the grated rind of 2 oranges. (That's the Cali-
fornia touch!) Add the flour and mix well, then chill for
easier handling. Roll, not too thin . . say about an eighth
of an inch thick, and cut by laying paper patterns on the
dough and cutting around them with a sharp knife. If you
wonder where you get the patterns, I'll tell you . . you make
them. Use cardboard and draw pictures of animals, toys,
story-book characters and divers shapes, then cut them out.
There are your patterns and don't tell me you can't draw.
You can trace. The shapes that particularly wow the chil-
dren are clowns, Santa Clauses, trains and
dolls, but the adults invariably go for the
poodle dog. Back to the cookies . . you've
cut out the various shapes . . a task not
as tedious as you might think, for after
COOKS
bv helen evans brown
the first half-dozen or so you'll find yourself slashing them
I out with great abandon. Put them carefully on a greased
cookie sheet and make two holes near the top of the string
or ribbon. Now bake them carefully and allow to cool be-
fore icing.
COOKIE ICING Beat 4 egg whites slightly, add 2 cups of
I confectioner's sugar and a pinch of salt and continue beat-
ing. Add 4 teaspoons of lemon juice and enough more sugar
I to make it stiff. (Cut through it with a knife . . if it remains
I cut, it's stiff enough). Divide the icing into as many colors
as you want and do your tinting with liquid vegetable colors
II . . but be sure to leave some of the icing white. You'll prob-
I ably want some red, some green, and a little less blue and
I yellow, but if you prefer chartreuse and fuchsia that's all
I right, too. Spread the cookies thinly and evenly with the
• base color and allow to dry (poke out those holes), then
! decorate either with a pastry tube or with a water color brush
i (thin the icing for this) or with both. You'll catch on quickly
and be most frightfully impressed with your talent. The
i j final touch is to put a loop of ribbon or string through those
I holes and to pack the cookies flat so that there'll be no trage-
dies.
While we still have some icing and some dough on hand.
|j we can make a sugar house. Make it of cardboard or of cookie
II dough baked flat, then stick together with icing. Ice all
I] over with white icing, add a red chimney, and outline doors
II and windows with colored candies. The walk and stone wall
l| can be made with peanut brittle and the trees in front can
be made by inverting cone-shaped paper cups over pepper-
mint sticks, icing the tops, and squiggling on blobs of colored
| icing for Christmas tree lights. There's the centerpiece for
your holiday table!
The eating of Christmas cookies is not limited to the chil-
li dren. The boss, the postman, Uncle Ezekiel and Lady Grey
i would a heap sight rather have them than a Christmas tie
1 or an expensive and impersonal Christmas card. If you're a
box hoarder, and who isn't, you can cover up those you've
1 saved with all manner of fancy papers, decorate them with
last year's Christmas cards, and paste a ruffle of paper doilies
[ inside the boxes. Glamour stuff.
Springerle, lebkuchen, spritz and pfeffernusse are tradi-
tional with many Californian families at Christmastime . .
families who have brought the recipes from the old country.
Any standard cook book will tell you how to make them. I
I concentrate instead on cookies that are more typical of Cali-
| fornia . . cookies that are fast becoming a Californian tra-
] dition.
CALIFORNIA BRANDY BALLS You don't have to know how to
cook to make these. They're not cooked. Mix together 3
cups of vanilla wafers which have been rolled fine, 1%
cups of confectioner's sugar, ll/o cups of chopped California
j walnuts, l/o cup of California brandy (or Jamaica rum), and
3 tablespoons of corn syrup. Shape into balls the size
of the proverbial walnut, and roll in powdered sugar. Store,
tightly closed, for at least a week before serving.
BROWNIES The all-time, all-year favorite but still a Christ-
mas must. Melt 2 squares of bitter chocolate with l/g pound
of butter in the top of a double boiler. Add 1 cup of sugar.
I V4 teaspoon of salt, l/o cup of flour, 1 teaspoon of vanilla
: and l/o cup of California walnuts. Pour into a 6xl0-inch pan
I which has been lined with waxed paper. Spread evenly and
sprinkle the top with another half-cup of chopped walnuts.
I3ake at 325° for about 45 minutes or less, and turn out on
a board. Peel off paper, allow to cool, then cut into 2 dozen
squares. It's nice to wrap each brownie in aluminum foil.
Festive, too.
ALMOND PASTE Well, it's made from California almonds,
isn't it? Blanch V/2 cups of shelled California almonds and
put them through the food chopper 3 times, using the finest
knife. Add % CUP °f sugar, 14 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 cup of
water, and a drop or two of almond extract. Cook in a double
boiler for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool, knead until
smooth, and use for macaroons or for marzipan.
ALMOND MACAROONS Add 2 egg whites to 1/0 pound of
almond paste, then mix in 1 cup of sugar. Mix well, adding
a little more egg white if too stiff. Shape with a pastry bag
onto a cookie sheet that has been buttered and then dusted
with corn starch. Decorate with bits of holly made from tiny
pieces of citron or angelica and pieces of glace cherry. Bake
at 300° for 25 or 30 minutes.
MEXICAN COOKIES The Mexicans, who contribute so much
to our Californian cuisine, give us another favorite. Knead
together l/o pound of butter, l/o cup of confectioner's sugar.
2 cups of flour, 14 teaspoon of salt, and 1 cup of ground
pecans. Shape into little balls, roll in powdered sugar, ar-
range on cookie sheets and flatten slightly by pressing half
a pecan on top of each. Bake at 300° for 20 minutes or until
a very pale gold.
CALIFORNIA BRANDY SNAPS These are slightly tricky, but
worth every drop of patience, and of brandy, that you put
into them. Melt 1/4 pound of butter, add l/o cup of sugar, 1/4
cup of molasses, a cup of flour, a teaspoon of ground ginger.
t/8 teaspoon of salt, and 2 teaspoons of brandy. Drop by tea-
spoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet, bake four minutes in
a hot oven (400°), cool a minute, then roll each cookie
tightly, holding long enough for them to retain their new
shape. It will be necessary, unless you're a demon for speed,
to put the unrolled ones back in the oven for a minute if
they become too stiff to be pliant.
WALNUT DATE BARS Beat 2 eggs well, add 1 cup of brown
sugar, 1/4 cup of flour, 14 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of
baking powder, a teaspoon of vanilla, and 1 cup each of dates
and walnuts, both from California and both cut in coarse
pieces. (Use scissors for the dates.) Bake in a pan which
has been lined with waxed paper, as for the Brownies above.
This should take about 25 minutes in an oven of 325 degrees.
Cut in oblongs and wrap in cellophane of various colors.
SAND TARTS Again California almonds lend their charm
to a Christmas cookie. Cream 14 pound of butter with a cup
of sugar, add a beaten egg, 1 and % cups of flour, 2 tea-
spoons of baking powder (1 of double-action), and 14 tea-
spoon of salt. Mix well and chill thoroughly. Roll an eighth
of an inch thick, and cut into diamond-shaped pieces. Ar-
range split blanched almonds in the centers and at each cor-
ner, brush with white of egg, and sprinkle with sugar mixed
with cinnamon (1 teaspoon of the spice to each quarter-cup
of sugar). Bake at 400° for about 8 minutes or until brown.
And so you have some California cookies. Have fun. too.
this merrv Christmas!
>|S T A GLAUS TURNS COOK AND TURNS OUT COOKIES
. . . (Joes three masterful pieces in
his own masterful way. He picks a color
in gabardine, picks it up with tone-on-tone striped
worsted for the jacket. All together, David Gaines
creates your soundest fashion buy of the season.
The coat, retail about $70.
The suit, retail about $60.
The sizes, 10 to 18.
Colors:
Beige with beige stripe.
Brown with beige stripe,
Grey with grey stripe,
Slack with grey stripe.
For srore nearest you
see page 17 this issue
or write
GAINES & CO., 783 Mission Street, San Francisco 3
from
THE FARMERS MARKEr
f*% ^
California and Los Angeles
PLATES
Collectors' item! Souvenir plates for hang-
ing on the wall, prettying your shelves,
serving hors d'oeuvre. Sturdy ceramic
plates, lOyi" in diameter, with the print
under heavy glaze. Colorful Los Angeles or
California scenes. Maroon or blue, shipped
parcel post insured.
EACH, JUST $1.50
(Add 25c for shipping,
2Vi% sales tax in Calif.,
3% tax in Los Angeles)
LOS ANGELES FARMERS MARKET
MAP PLATES $1.25 each
CHINA HOUSE
LOS ANGELES 36. CALIF.
THIRD & FAIRFAX
""""■
■
i
&
"""
OLDE THOMPSON PEPPER Ml
Enjoy the tantalizing spiciness of p<|
at its best with this efficient pepper
Connoisseurs demand freshly ground!
per for piquant, subtle flavors. And qil
combines with craftsmanship in
charming, useful Olde Thompson Pel
Mills . . . shaped like tiny antique cl
grinders. They assure faithful sel
through many years of more zestful di <
(Add 1 5c postage,
2'/2% sales tax in Co
Just $3.95
THE GADGET NO<
THIRD & FAIRFAX
LOS ANGELES 36, Cl
MAGIC NUTS!
Deliciously different, these tasty Magic Nuts . . . salty
glazed nuts, without oil, prepared by our secret pro-
cess. The largest, most perfect are used in these pack-
ages of blanched and redskinned almonds, cashews,
pecans, filberts, peanuts. Beautifully gift wrapped.
SUPER MIX {no peanuts)
$1.85 Postage
1 lb. $2.25 $2.95 prepaid
2 lbs. $3.85 $5.15 in U. S.
THE MAGIC NUT SHOP
COCKTAIL MIX
y2 lb. $1.50
THIRD & FAIRFAX
LOS ANGELES 36, CALIF.
: " . :: .
MORGAN'S GARDEN SHOP
"We Specialize in Planting"
Gale 3, THIRD & FAIRFAX
LOS ANGELES 36, CALIF.
ALARM CLOCK
6/2" h'gh, attractive ceramic planter
for wall or shelf. Red, blue
green on white background. (We'
have many other ceramic planters,
too).
$2.50 unplanted — $4.50 planted
(We plant free — charge only for
plants and material used)
MORGAN'S GRO-PEET
Our exclusive product for indoor dish gar*'
dens. Morgan's own mixture of enriched'
peat moss to keep your plants healthy.
With instructions for planting, feeding and
cleaning. Generous-sized bag.
Only 49c, plus 20c for shipping
Handmade Leather Pouch Bags
Softest leather is used in this exquisite handmade
pouch bag. It's deep and roomy, all leather lined,,
with safety catch fastener. Shoulder straps detach,!
so it may be carried as a handbag. Sold exclu-|
sively by us. Your choice of saddle brown, choco-
late, seal brown, Continental green, red or black-
Hi 1 Sll (Plus 20% luxury tax,
*'■•<« 2Vi% sales tax in Calif.,
3% sales tax in Los Angeles)
I M P
THIRD & FAIRFAX
OUTERS
LOS ANGELES 36, CALIF.
52
THE CALIFORNIAN, Becember, 1948
Red feather, symbol of leadership, of giving ... and a new suit for the New Year! Gene Shelly's inimitable
tailoring of fine worsted, tab motif at collar and waist, plain gabardine skirt, about $185
at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Bonwit Teller, New York. Keneth Hopkins hat, Le Cort bag.
ImtAm^i tn huh -
feow-frto/rifr/
the new crease - resistan t
For that fresh, radiant look —
that wonderful unwrinkled look,
with alluring swish and rustle,
choose the new "Everglaze"
taffetas that do not shrink
or stretch and have a rich,
durable lustre. In yard goods and
made-up garments everywhere.
*A trade- mark signifying fabric finished and tested according to processes
ond stondards controlled and prescribed by Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co.
IN DECEMBER
V>ialifornia sometimes suffers from its
own effervescent publicity ... or rather,
December visitors to this fair state are
likely to do so. For contrary to C of C
proved reports that here the sun shines
some part of practically every day in the
year, the thermometer does drop sur-
prisingly at times, and fur coats, ga-
loshes and sturdy raiment should be a
basic p?.rt of your travel wardrobe.
First, consider that the suit is your
wardrobe's beginning . . . with tailored
shirts, sweaters, and at least one dressy
blouse which may do double duty with
a long dinner skirt . . . then choose a
warm coat to complete your most func-
tional outfit. The new three-piece en-
sembles, suit-and-brief -topper, is a won-
derful selection, but you may prefer a
longer coat that looks equally well over
a suit or dresses. A fur coat, of course,
is the luxury choice.
With all the holiday functions sure
to invite your attendance, you'll want
your December wardrobe to include one
one of those wonderful knits or bright
wools . . . possibly with metallic shine,
with jewels or sequins that sparkle. The
holiday prints, too, are gay travel com-
panions. Formal clothes are optional,
depending of course on your own social
plans for the season, but if ever there
is a time to dress up . . . it's Christmas!
The little suit hat, the tiny flirtatious
dinner bonnet, the snug little "softie"
for motoring ... a new smaller hand-
bag . . . walking shoes for sight-seeing,
frivolous fancies for evening . . .
scarves and gloves and accessories ga-
lore to increase the versatility of all
your clothes.
Remember, in December you're likely
to have both summer-warm and crisp-
cold weather with possibly a rainy day
or two. You can get to the desert in
a matter of minutes and you'll need
play clothes . . even a swimsuit there!
DECEMBER WEATHER DATA
Los
San
Angeles
Francisco
Average Maximum
66.5
56.2
Average Minimim
48
45.8
Highest
83
69
Lowest
40
41
Percentage Sunshine
76
41
Precipitation
1.64
1.84
54
THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 194!
Left to Right: Cable-stitched Cardigan, 11.00 • Men's Imported
Cashmere Pullover, 18.00 • Diamond Quilt ie, 14.00 • Imported Cashmere
Slipon, 13.00; shown with Imported Cashmere Cardigan, 17.00
-•« color folder showing older Catalina Sweaters, write Dept. 565, Caialma. Inc.. 443 South San Pedro Slreet. Los Angelas 13. California
SWEATERS
LOOK FOR THE FLYING FISH
THE C AL I FO
COMMAS
A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Inc.
■
Rep. U. S. I |
New Pattern ror run. ..swim-to-soiree ensemble oi ribbon-striae
on. LJeitly maneuvered by Cole oi C.aliromia...kef>t j^enectly in line with lastex.
suit. l'2.Q5. C-abana skirt. 10.Q5. lJress. 1Q. Q5. Omall, medium, large. Peacock
me, cbamf>agne witb rose, mauve witb green.
■ CASUAL CLOTHES, FOURTH FLOOR
THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949
II
s<?
MERRY SUNSHINE • For a perfect Jay, tkis perfect
dress, to enkance your perfect beauty! Cotton ckam-
bray striped in sunskine colors : blue and pink,
yellow and brown, salmon and grey. 10 to 18. $12.95
BRIGHT STAR "So stunning you'll stop traffic
. . . like a policeman's krigkt star ... in your doodle
stripe spun rayon witk wkite cotton pique collar and
cuffs. In rainkow-kued prints. 12 to 20. $10.95
CRACKER JACK • Tke keauty witk tke basket wears
wkite cotton waffle pique printed witk krown and lug-
gage; green and kelio; yellow and grey. 10 to 20. $10.95
BAND SOLO • Striped cotton cordspun, wkite-pique
trimmed. Blue, wisteria or green striped grey; pink
striped green. 10 to 20 $8.95
N
• DICKEY BIRD * Even dickey birds will wkistle wken
you wear your suit-like cotton waffle pique witk
wkite dickey front. Ice cream colors: pink and grey,
keige and aqua, grey and lime. 12 to 20. !p 10.95
• Turn to page 70 for a list of stores offering the
dresses on these pages and the dresses shown on
the front cover.
ALICE OF CALIFORNIA • 75 FREMONT STREET • SAN FRANCISCO 5 • CALIFORNIA
Vol. 6 - THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The California!!. Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U.S.A. Yearly subscription price * J%lS'J£i
No. 6 • S3. 00. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office, Los Angeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3, 1879. 1SW
■
ztbJ
' *A
CLUB HOUSE SKIRT,
slim style, fly= front pleat,
about $8.95
. '
RANCHO SLACKS...
Adjustable waistband, seli =
belt, about $8.95
BADMINTON SHORTS,
sclf=tclt and pocket tats,,
about $7.95
Marvelous separates with simply no end to
their versatility! Hollywood Premiere designed
them to choose as you wish, in Vwsley Simpson s
Super Linami. Colors are beige, navy or
roseterry, si?es \0 to 18.
At CARSON-PIRIE-SCOTT, Chicago;
MAISON BLANCHE, New Orleans;
BULLOCK'S, Los Angeles; and fine
stores everywhere.
THE CALIFORNIAN
Color-from the days when
a swashbuckling hero donned a
brilliant velvet doublet! Ted
Saval dips into the 16th century
dye-pot and brings forth this
gem-studded suede shoe in thoroughly
Californian glowing colors.
Flat wedge $12.95, medium
high wedge $14.95. The exactly
matching suede bag by
Theodor of California $12.95.
1510 SO. BROADWAY • LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
The Colors:
PALOMINO
PURPLE
GREEN
RED
NAVY
MUSTARD
FUCHSIA
DUSTY PINK
AQUA
NAVY
BLACK
BROWN
January, 1949
POCKETFUL OF CHARM!\
Cruise casual ... to wear now and
in spring . . . with patch pocket accent
at hipline and sleeve. Leather belt.
A CHARLES SOREL DESIGN
Introducing Minx by
the new rayon and acetate fabric blended
with genuine mink.
Sizes 10 lo 20.
Natural, aqua
and mauve pink.
To retail
about $45.
"Couturier Fashions Moderately Priced"
MORRIS & FYNE CORPORATION
Available at following stores:
Daniels & Fisher — Denver, Colo.
Charles F. Berg — Portland, Ore.
Levy Bros. — Houston, Tex.
or write for name of store nearest you.
2100 SOUTH BROADWAY • LOS ANGELES
THE CALIFORNIAN
YOU'RE 50
CHM1GEIIBIE
in Barney Max
California Coordinates
designed with a special flair for travel. Barney Max, in his superb
California manner, tailors BOTANY MARCH AN WOOL GABARDINE
in exciting new fashions to give you "quick change" charm here, there
and everywhere. Three, to interchange as you will: Two-piece suit dress,
about 50.00 . . . Cardigan topper, about 50.00 . . . Matching skirt, about 15.00
Colors: Beige, Ivory, Ash Pink, Parrot Green, Greige, Black, Brown, Royal, Navy.
All in sizes 10 to 18.
barney max
WRITE FOR NAME OF NEAREST STORE
407 East Pico Los Angeles 15, California
®
anuary, 1949
d SBC**"* w.Hed btA-r*.,
sun *»*? eoia-of"-
Cakex</own Sea Bra
accents this youthful
Modern Classic. The
elasticized fabric is
wonderfully striped
Sunflame in lovely Sun
Shades of White, Pink,
Yellow, Green, Royal,
Tourmaline Blue,
Champagne.
Sizes 10-20, $15.95.
Write and we'll tell you where . . .
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
10
Wfttf^
MIRRO-LENS GOGGLES ... on out-
standing technical and utility improvement
over ordinary sunglasses, Mirro-Lens reflects
the rays before they contact the lens. It
eliminates 96% of the harmful rays, so eyes
relax completely in the strongest glare and
dazzle of water, ice, snow or beaches. Of
finest quality 6-space lens, optically ground.
Gold-filled frames and mother of pearl nose-
piece. Mirro-Lens Goggles are ideal for men
or women. You'll want to order yours now,
S15.00 postpaid, plus 2l/2% sales tax in Cali-
fornia, 3% in Los Angeles, from The Mar-
gorita Shop, 1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles
15, Calif.
TIDY TOES ... the California Tabbies
with two-button back closing. These adorable
foot-mittens are so comfy you'll forget you
have them on . . until you hear the compli-
ments they rate! For lounging, dorm, patio
and pool. Tabbies are styled for wearability.
Softest satin in black, white or pink; and
quilted chintz in red, yellow, green or blue.
Sizes S-M-L. Send check or money order
for $3.95 (plus 10c tax in California, 12c
in Los Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018
South Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
CONFETTI CANDY BUTTONS . . .
Willys of Hollywood creates hand-appliqued
chenille dots on sheerest Dupont nylon. The
cleverest hosiery accent we've seen . . . per-
fect for cocktail and evening wear. In sandal-
foot or semi-sandal, seamfree or full fashion.
Confetti Candy Buttons come in chocolate,
raspberry, cherry, lemon, orange, lime or
blueberry on new '49ers shades: pay dirt; gold
dust; mica brown; rose quartz; red earth;
or shovel tan. Sizes 8 to 11, $5.00 at B. Alt-
man's, New York; May Company Wilshire,
Los Angeles; Baker's, Minneapolis. Or write
Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hol-
lywood 38, Calif.
ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth.
A summery reminder is this gay table cloth
. . . just throw it 'round the pole and zip it
up! Hand-printed in attractive basket weave
of mercerized cotton, richly colored in red
and white; blue and white; or green and
white. It fits any garden table, round or
square. Just $4.95 postpaid. Californians add
2Y2% sales tax, 3% in Los Angeles. Match-
ing ready-hemmed napkins, 18" wide, just 40c
each. Send your orders to The Margorita
Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles
15, Calif.
SPATTER SHIELD . . . here's a wonderful
innovation for cooking pleasure. An enter-
prising housewife designed this Spatter Shield
to keep her stove and walls clean by shielding
them from cooking grease and splatters. Now
it's available to all of us. A "kitchen must"
to enjoy spotless kitchens and yet fry chicken,
steaks, chops and fish crisply in the open
... it fits neatly around the sides and back of
any skillet, folds into a small flat package
for easy storage. A real buy at $1.00 post-
paid. Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Bev-
erly Hills, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN
.:
-
*
•a
■:«
U
:
^«v
V*^ —
SHADOW BOXES ... of California red-
■ wood. You"ll want to be the interior decorator
with these lovely shadow boxes, the answer
j" to "where to keep it." For knick-knacks
photos, plants, perfumes, miniatures, toys,
spices. 12" square. 3*4" deep. Leave them
(natural, paint or stain any color. Set of two
I Interlocked boxes, $1.75; two sets, §3.25.
(Postage paid, add 21/4% sales tax in Cali-
llfornia, 3% in Los Angeles. Fred L. Seymour
llco., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
PARASOL KNITTING BAG ... gay
(flowered chintz, parasol-shaped, is this en-
jtirely handmade knitting bag. You'll use it
I jat home, at the beach, for traveling. Plastic
I (tubing inside contains slots for 12 knitting
I (needles, with center designed to hold 2-
pointed needles . . . and ample room for a
jfull dress pattern! 16" high, $4.50, and 22"
!$6.00 postage prepaid. (Californians add 2'/2%
[sales tax). Send color choice — yellow, black,
I gray, green, pink or blue predominating —
jand check or money order to Mary Frances of
(California, 8881 W. Pico, Los Angeles 7,
ICalif.
ICALVES ORIGINALS IN SUEDE . . .
:this luxurious hat and bag set, of rich im-
'ported suede. The beret is smartly styled for.
Imany-way wear, and the huge "Feed Bag"
I is taffeta lined and 12" deep. A beautiful
llsuede set to accessorize your suits and coats,
I in red, brown, gray, yellow, bronze, green,
i 'French blue or sapphire blue. Beret sizes 21-
!21 1/4-22-2214-23. Just 818.50 for both beret and
I bag, including excise, plus 25c for mailing.
i(2l,4% sales tax for Californians). Send your
I color choice and hat size with check or money
j order to The Margorita Shop, 1018 S. Main
! St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
I SALAD MISTRESS . . . you'll want for
! yourself, and for your friends, this six-piece
I I set of California pottery. It includes oil and
. vinegar cruets, mustard jar with cover and
spoon, salt and peppers, all on an easy-to-
I handle plastic tray. Colors to match your
kitchen, patio or barbecue: Red and white;
J maroon and green; blue and white; or tur-
I quoise and yellow. Just $2.00 plus 25c for
1 mailing if outside of California. Add 214%
! sales tax (5c) for California delivery. Or-
Iders are promptly filled by Fred L. Seymour
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
iSU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . 100%
j all power net nylon, even sewed with nylon
1 thread, finished with nylon tape, and nylon
1 elastic garters. Dries in 4 short hours, fits
I so well that squirming and yanking are things
of the past ... no revealing seamlines under
| slickest dresses. You'll have smoother, pret-
! tier hip lines with this Su-Z Girdle. (Pho-
toed by Lee Angle). Step-in or pantie
; (shown). Postpaid, in nude or white, just
$10.95. Send measurements of your waist,
tummy, thigh, over-all weight, and height to
Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon Ave., Los Angeles 43,
; Calif.
*■
k*?^i . far*- * v ^?«
Caltex own 2-in-l Classic
flatters and assures the
freedom of a two-piece
and security of a one-piece
swimsuit. Its Sun Fabric
is elasticized Jacquard.
The Sun Shades are
Chalk Pink, Tourmaline
Blue, Pastel Yellow,
Champagne. Sizes 10-20,
$17.95.
Write and we'll tell you where...
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
January, 1949
11
818 s. broadway, los angeles 14, California
produced by helen kopp
A sophisticated Chinese Print
in fine Rayon Crepe, Predom-
inating colors are Coral . . .
jade or Aqua Glaze blue.
Sizes 12 to 20 . . . Style 994
. . . Retail at 29.95
mid season refreshment in a Chinese print
For a list of the stores where this dress may be purchased, please turn to page 69.
1
BERYL AND RENE
Dormitory delights . . . this matching shortie gown and pajamas in multi-
filament crepe with French Val lace: Lady Helen of California originals in
junior and regular sizes. At better stores.
OF CALIFORNIA • 417 East Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles
a (<wLk«(»- vjuiaAifij
JANE INDORF enjoys a life few teachers
would envy. Behind barbed wire and gun
towers, she daily instructs a class of juve-
nile felons at the California Vocational In-
stitution on the edge of the hot Mojave.
Vitally interested in the state's rehabilita-
tion program, Miss Indorf numbers among
her charges . . a hypnotist and a crooner.
JADE SNOW WONG, illustrious product of San Francisco's
Chinatown, worked her way through Mills College, intending
to be a social worker. Switched in midstream to ceramics after
a summer course in the arts. Now renowned for her applica-
tion of enamel to metal, one of the Wong pieces is on perma-
nent exhibition in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art.
ADELINE HANSON is a disc jockey . . one
of the few women to capture a spot on the
California ether waves. Her "Composer's Cor-
ner" is for the hep and she interviews music
makers from radio, movies and records. Red
Norvo proved to be the most shy of her special
guests. He merely nodded "yes" and "no."
NIPO STRONGHEART, field representa-
tive of the national Congress of American In-
dians, started in show business with Buffalo
Bill at the age of 11, appeared in movies in
1905 and today is a top technical advisor for
the film industry of Hollywood. He won't
permit Indians to portray characters detri-
mental to the race. Scalping savage you see
may be an Italian, a Pole, or an Irishman.
IN
CALIFORNIA
IT'S
MICHELE, the perfumer, came to Hollywood
from Vienna and Nazi prisons, turned a hob-
by into a profitable business. Here, she blends
a personal and subtle scent for ELEANOR
PARKER. She created "Mink" for Rita Hay-
worth and "Brown Derby" for Errol Flynn.
14
**
Italian bilk Shantung. ..rich as a Renaissance masterpiece... deitly tailored
by Maurice K,verett or Calilornia into a sott dress that sculptures your figure along"
tne most contemporary lines. In OJDode red, jade green, (Draline, sandalwood, peacock
blue. Sizes 12 to 18. 4Q.Q5 ■ casual clothes, fourth floo*
'xJUJb
'c4"g-^
yJdiM
THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949
15
Buffums
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
,1
trim, clean-lined in .newsmaking
grey or in faded blue, trimmed
with red; zipper = closed pockets.
Sanforized. Sizes 10 to 18.
eton jacket, 4.95
skirt, 4.95
3-way jacket, 7.95
pedal pusher, 4.95
not shown.-
boy shorts, 3.95
sunback dress, 7.95
reversible halter, 2.95
strapless boned halter, 2.95
slacks, 4.50
MAIL ORDERS
plus 2'/2% state sales tax
Buffums' Sun-Charm Fashions"*
\eg. U. S. Pat. Off.
16
THE CALIFORNIAN
MJL PARRY PHOTO
t leuji&L-. selection . . .
IRRESISTIBLE .'. . as the "extra"
little dress in your luxury wardrobe, or
as a practical basic for tovvn-and-coun-
try. Designed by California Creator
BETTY MOHILEF in sensationally-
new fabric SUGAR TWIST by
)@&> in man-
.lew,
darin red, temple jade, locust tan, aqua
glaze, navy.
Sizes 10 to 20 . . . it's under $15
WOODWARD & LOTHROP, Washington, D. C. THE WM. H. BLOCK COMPANY, Indianapolis, Indiana E. GOTTSCHALK &
COMPANY, INC., Fresno, California HALE BROTHERS, San Francisco, California COYLE & RICHARDSON, Charleston, W«sf
Virginia CHARLES F. BERG, Portland, Oregon ROSENBAUM'S, Elmira, New York L. L. BERGER, INC., Buffalo, New York.
OR FOR NEAREST STORE WRITE
January, 1949
^y^l^
945 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 15, California
17
JUST OFF THE PRESS!
the Second Edition of
CALIFORNIA COOKS
BY HELEN EVANS BROWN
New!
Enlarged!
Write
for your
copies
Today
The first edition of California Cooks sold out.
Here's the Second Edition . . Twice as Large . . with more than 100
delightful California recipes . . dozens of exciting menus for every
occasion.
Discover the magic of new and interesting hors d'oeuvre, herb and
wine cooking, picnic and barbecue dishes, the favorite dishes of
Hollywood and Chinatown, how to prepare economy meat dishes, avocado
surprises, wonderful salads . . tempting dishes that slenderize. Re-
printed specially from the articles appearing in The CaMfornian.
The New California Cooks is a treasure to keep in your kitchen, an
appreciated gift for your friends. A boon for the bride-to-bel
WRITE FOR YOUR COPIES TODAY!
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail with $1 for each copy, postage
paid by us, to
Ialii
To: The
Please
CaMfornian,
mail my cop
1020 S.
ies of
Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cc
CALIFORNIA COOKS to.
lif.
(Name)
(Address)
Enc
ose
d is
payment
(City
for □
, State and Zone)
copies at $1 each.
What Makes Los Angeles Grow?
"City Makers" Tries To Explain Phenomenal Rise
by hazel alien pulling
Ci
Mnderella-like in quality, the story of Los Angeles has for
adults all the appeal that a fairytale has for your.ger readers.
Remi Nadeau, descendant of pioneers, has caught the mystical
tone of the city's development in City Makers (Whittlesey.
$3.50), an account of Los Angeles' rise from the isolated,
squat, adobe village that it was in the 1860's to the thriving,
modern city that it is today. Why did Los Angeles rise so
rapidly where and when it did? Who was responsible? City
Makers provides the answers. It was men, the book shows
. . men, dreaming, fighting, falling, yet rising again and
again, and building, facet by facet . . who created the city
and gave it its basis for future development. Cattlemen,
sheepmen, farmers, railroad promoters, harbor developers,
miners, bankers, businessmen, home builders and statesmen
pass in review through each succeeding decade, with mobsters,
ruffians, robbers and renegade politicians forming opposing
strains. City Makers is a developing story that shows Los
Angeles forging ahead despite backsets and boom-bursts; it
is a section of local history told with fidelity to facts and
with the sure touch of one whose life has been part of the
story.
Or perhaps adventuring on scenic California backways has
greater appeal to you. Several books of recent publication
will increase your pleasures both before and after your ad-
ventursome spirit has its way with you. There's Otheto Wes-
ton's Mother Lode Album (Stanford University Press. $5.00),
nearly 200 pages of pictures of haunts of gold rush days
with descriptive notes that will guide your wayfaring through
northern and eastern mountain areas. Josef Muench has just
added Along Yosemite Trails (Hastings House. $2.75) to his
other pictorial sketches of places of grandeur and beauty in
California. And a third delightful book is California Pictorial
(University of California Press. $10) by Jeanne Van Nostrand
and Edith Coulter. This book is a collection of originals done
by travelers, miners, sailors and soldiers who visited Cali-
fornia from 1785 to 1859.
FOR THE TOURIST
San Francisco, of course, will not be left out of your Cali-
fornia travels, and for that trip Robert O'Brien's This Is
San Francisco (Whittlesey. $3.75) will guide your steps.
Charming as San Francisco itself, this book will take you
through the city from Cliff House on the sea to the hills
beyond and back to places you will be eager to visit within
the city. Bits of history, biographical items, and much of
the color and quiet shading that give San Francisco its unique
personality are here to lure you and later to remind you of
delightful days spent in this city on the Bay.
An earlier day is reflected in the delightful sketches of
California architecture in Santa Barbara Adobes by Clarence
Cullimore (Santa Barbara Publishing Company, P. 0. Box
1050, Bakersfield. 250p. $4.90). From the pen of an archi-
tect who steeped himself in the spirit of old California in
order to catch the perfect blend of landscape and building,
these 45 drawings reveal as much of Spanish California as
does the historical narrative that accompanies them. California
on the eve of the American conquest was a world unto itself
. . a world well caught in this combination art and history
book.
SUCCESSFUL FASHION HINTS
A clever pamphlet that is at least as Californian as it is
any other region, and equally as important to her women
folk, is 200 Ways to Alter a Dress by Virginia Allen Mc-
Intire. former fashion editor of a leading California magazine
(Trade Press Room. Los Angeles. 80p. $1). Ideas for length-
ening, enlarging, trimming, camouflaging, and metamorphos-
ing dresses all too quickly grown passe are succinctly ex-
pressed. Graphically delineated in the art of Margery John-
son, the suggestions given here lend themselves readily to
nearly-new fashion creations. You will wish to try some of them
on your own wardrobe.
THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949
w,
e set out to provide a shopping
center for suburban Sacramento.
And suddenly we're famous!
True, we did build our shopping center rancho
style with heavy beams, old lanterns, patios,
flowers and adobe. And we did plan for all the
services necessary for comfortable California living.
But we didn't expect that our 54 friendly
shops would begin to attract shoppers and
sightseers from all over the West.
Nor did we expect to be visited for our
atmosphere — or to be called quaint
and unique.
But all those things have happened to us
in two years and we are pleasantly
surprised by the splash.
So perhaps you would enjoy a visit with us the
next time you come to Sacramento.
WHETHER you want to find out how
silver saddles get that way . . .
OR what rattlesnake canape' tastes like . . .
OR how to weave a rug . . .
OR buy clothes, shoes, sportswear,
pet food, rattan furniture or an
old wagon wheel
COME TO . . .
in sacramento
January, 1949
19
«*■*-* *
Smooth 'n shapely for summertime! Graff's zipper-back shorts of Shirley's Mars gabardine and a classic shirt in
brilliant plaid cotton. 10-20, about $13. Burdine's, Miami; Morrison's, Indianapolis; Bullock's, Pasadena.
MEMO FROM THE PUBLISHER
Nobody had ever succeeded in doing it before,
and there never had been a time when there were
so many obstacles. That's what people told us
back in the winter of 1945 when the first issue of
The CALIFORNIAN was being readied for the
presses.
But we were just naive enough, and just en-
thusiastic enough to believe that smart people
everywhere wanted a good magazine devoted to
California fashions and California living.
It's a good thing that we weren't smart enough
to know that nobody would buy a magazine from
and about California. It's a good thing we didn't
know that it was impossible to buy paper then, or
to find a printer big enough to undertake a one
hundred thousand run of a big, national, smartly
done consumer magazine. For had we known these
things we would not, with this issue, be com-
mencing our fourth successful year of publication.
The obstacles were there, all right. It was true
you couldn't buy paper. But we bought it anyhow.
It was true you couldn't find a printer big enough.
OS
*9
-
ON THE COVER: Light-
hearted as a skylark, and
as much at home in the
sun . . these ruffle-lovely
dresses by Lady Alice of
California. Pastels, in
Bales chambray with
touch of white rick-rack.
Sizes 10 to 20, about $15
each. See page 70 fnr
stores nearest you.
we used four printers. They were strung up
and down the coast from San Francisco to San Diego
and "skids" of paper and printed forms were being
vj shuttled back and forth. Then one day a truck,
I racing down from our San Francisco printer to our
I Los Angeles bindery with a load of late "forms,"
overturned. But we solved that, too, without a sub-
scriber ever knowing the difference. There was the
time when publisher, editors, fashion directors, pho-
tographers, advertising salesmen and the office boy
all had to pitch in on Saturday and Sunday nights
to bind The CALIFORNIAN by hand in order to get
it out on time. One of our printers had to stop work
because of a strike. Others raised their prices out
landishly while the forms were actually on their
presses. It was rough at every turn and we were
sick at heart.
So, we bought our own printing plant. Today
ours is one of the largest printing establishments in
California and everything is under one roof: Editing,
publishing, printing, advertising, art, photography
and bindery. Even our own circulation department
handles your subscriptions and mails the magazine
to subscribers in every state in the Union and
twenty-one foreign countries.
In our naivete we stumped the experts. All we
knew was that California fashions and the Cali-
fornia way-of-living had caught on all over the coun-
try, but had been without a competent spokesman.
We heard your call and answered it. You have jus-
tified our faith in you and made it possible for us
to do it when it couldn't be done. With this in-
spiration which you have given us, we have at-
tained an early maturity. We enter our fourth suc-
cessful year with exciting new plans in store for
you.
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones,
Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Alice Carey, Hazel Allen Pulling
A"T .Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean,
Ann Harris, Jane Christiansen
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
9
-
s
c-
california fashions
Smooth 'n Shapely 2d
Spring Predictions 23
We Believe in Scallops... 24
We Believe in Batiks 26
Fabrics Make News 28
Esther Williams Swim Suit 31
For Spectator Sports _ 36
Season and Sunshine Fashions 38
Court The Sun 40
Accessories 42
For Town and Country 44
Four Part Harmony 46
Be Bold and Bare 53
Previewed at Palm Springs 54
For Afternoon 55
Formal Fashions 56
For Dancing or Romancing 58
Queen of Hearts 60
Hats Are So Romantic 64
California features
Take a Trip to the Moon 32
Harry Wagoner. Desert Artist 34
Some Women Are Like That 52
California living
House for California Living 48
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Broun 50
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager.
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson &
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 Wesi
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per vear outside" con-
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulation. Entered as
second class matter lanuarv 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1 H9. The Californian, Inc. Printed in I'.S.A. Repro-
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically auihorized.
HP
wr Mai
BARE FASHIONS
MINIMUM SWIMSUITS
BRA-TOP SUN DRESSES
BARE-AS-YOU-DARE EVENING GOWNS
EXOTIC BATIK PRINTS
WINGING BEAUTY OF SCALLOPS
BRILLIANCE OF PERSIMMON
TINY GEOMETRIC, TONE-ON-TONE PRINTS
These are the things that characterize California's wonderful sun country clothes, beautifully bare
and bold . . . clothes you'll want to select right now because they're resort fashions with their own
sunshine aura to help speed the spring. Whether you're heading for some winter-warm mecca or
staying at home, we say now is the time to choose your sun country wardrobe . . . now, while
you can get first selection of all the glorious sun-day clothes which have been sped from the
sportswear center of the nation to be previewed to you wherever you live.
(.oofc at and love . . . the wonderful cottons, embossed or iridescent or shining with metallic
threads . . . pure silk shantungs in bold island prints, or jewel-bright shades . . . fine linens,
rayons, the frosting of organdy. Colored denims, paisley, calico; batik and new border prints
to make a pretty pagan of you. And, say we, there can be nothing more exciting than your new
swimsuit ... in elasticized lace, swimmable velvet, satin and nylon and sharkskin with brand
new finish and finesse. These are the fabrics of which fashion is made in California . . . where
motion picture standards of glamour inspire famous designers to make a pretty picture of you.
Here come the sun country clothes, and now
the California sun shines on YOU
-^ NEW LISLE HOODED T-SHIRT BY GANTNER OF CALIFORNIA, ABOUT $4 AT CARSON'S, CHICAGO.
23
SAM OPPEE
We believe scallops are important to your sun country wardrobe. You'll love Pat Premo's toss-on coat of printed Everfast pique
with your sun dresses, dancing cottons, or as you see it above, left, with its own bra-top pique sunsuit; set, about $45
at Carson's, Chicago; Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis. Cabana dress by Cole of California, about $18 at Carson's, Chicago.
Opposite, the batiks you'll see at smartest resorts: Tabak of California makes you sun-fun clothes of Mallinson's
print with sharkskin; mix-matchables total about $72, all pieces at Carson's, Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles. ^
24
We Believe in Batiks for You
Exotic and daring Batik prints . . . and your bare should
Be a pretty pagan in these Fuller Fabric costumes in;
jungle tones, so brand new and so different. Left, Joy Kingst
sarong set, glamour-wrap skirt over bra-top shorts, under $25
and her boned sundress and stole, opposite page, right, under j
both at Carson's, Chief
Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Mclnerny's, Honolulu. Opposite page,]
Georgia Kay's Tahitian trio, sequin skirt, about $2
Carson's, Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Harzfeld's, Kansas!
EMBOSSED CABLE STITCH: CATALINA
ELASTICIZED LACE: CALTEX
Fabric makes news for your 1949 swimsuit . . . previewed in California, these are the exciting innovations of the season: Catalina's
strapless suit with mitred cables on elasticized Celanese, about $20; elasticized lace so naughty-but-nude, by Caltex, about $20.
28
BmsBHBH^mnm
SHARKSKIN: ROSE MARIE REID
VELVET: COLE OF CALIFORNIA
Bare as you please, wired bra for extra security, it's Rose Marie Reid's sharkskin suit, about $20. Unbelievable but true,
swimmable velvet by Cole of California, about $18. Swim-and-show suits, with optional halter ties, at Carson's, Chicago.
29
One piece or two? . . . satin lastex is like your second skin in these two-color swim-easy suits from California. Above, left,
"Pagliacci" classic, by Mabs of Hollywood; about $17 at B. Altman, New York; J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago.
And for the girl who prefers a midriff brevity, Elon of California, right, presents a form-flattering suit, about $13.
30
Who better than Esther Williams knows what a woman needs and a man likes in a swimsuit? Here is her own suit
created by Cole of California after months of swim-testing by the famous M.G.M. star soon to be seen in "Neptune's Daughter."
In elasticized matelasse, the suit is cut for extra swim security and comfort, is a perfect show-off. About $18 at Carson's Chicago.
31
Up and up to the observatory . .
a long pull if you're pedalling
They ride past the Greek Theatre
in Los Angeles' vast Griffith Park
Peggy Ann Wagner and Jo Anne
Robert start trek from park entrance
one cameraman and
two pretty girls portray
the graphic story of
a pilgrimage to famous
griffith observatory . . .
a "trip to the moon"
The beautiful buildings represent Col. Griffith's contribution
to science . . thousands enjoy the exhibits and dramatic show
TAKE A TRIP
TO THE MOON!
Don't let the high cost of living bother you. For
50 cents you can take a trip to the moon!
Every week in Los Angeles nearly 5000 persons com-
press days . . even years . . into minutes as they enjoy
the spectacle of a space trip to a planet . . and back
. . in one golden hour at the famous Griffith Observa-
tory, high in the Los Feliz Hills. Beneath the 75-foot-
high dome of a circular room are the lunar projec-
tors, the planetarium, and Dr. Dinsmore Alter, ob-
servatory director and commentator, dramatically
combined to take the public on an astronomical tour
never to be forgotten . . to witness stars and planets
and the earth . . all in proper relation and proportion
to our life as ordinary human beings.
The Griffith Observatory, gift of Col. Griffith J.
Griffith, and operated by the Los Angeles City Recrea-
tion and Park Department, is a million-dollar monu-
ment to our never-ending thirst for knowledge. Nine
times a week the public treks up the winding road
through Griffith Park to see "the show" . . the sensa-
tional product of many years of planning, of perfect-
ing amazing instruments of projection. And the show
may vary, month to month, from "Under The Southern
Cross" to "Comets and Meteors" or "The Christmas
Star." The mission of Dr. Alter. Technician George
W. Bunton and the eight regular members of the
staff is to interpret physical science, especially as-
tronomy, to the public who maintains the program.
In addition to the projections of space wonders, the
public has the opportunity to visit the Hall of Science
at the observatory . . see the $25,000 moving model of
the Mount Palomar telescope, the Foucault pendulum
that gives proof to the earth's rotation on its axis,
the collection of meteorites, models of planets and the
cyclotron that was used in making the first atomic
bombs. The huge telescopes, too, are available on
clear nights for a real, live look at the moon and
the stars.
The Californian. on these pages, takes you with
Peggy Ann Wagner and Jo Anne Robert on an after-
noon bicycle ride to the Griffith Observatory . . a Trip
To The Moon . . past the beautiful trees and planting
in the park, past the noted outdoor Greek Theatre,
up and up, to the planetarium and observatory that
comprise one of America's prized possessions . .
dedicated to the study of the infinite and man's quest.
A model of the cyclotron used to make the first atomic bombs is
one of the principal attractions in observatory Hall of Science
Through turnstiles into the Hall of Scie
the observatory and the "spectacle of spc*
In "Other Worlds Than Ours" Jo Anne g
close-up glimpse of Saturn and its many
A $25,000 working model of Mount Paloir'
telescope is a wondrous piece to remeofi
Image of the moon . .
40 feet in diameter . . as
it is projected on dome
of observatory . . only
3,000 miles from the earth
and your own naked view
Foucault pendulum gives proof to A replica of California's own Goose Lake The 12-inch Zeiss telescope brings stars
theory that earth revolves on axis meteorite is encased for public inspection and obscure planets into exciting focus
Dr. Dinsmore Alter,
above, director
and commentator for
the lunar shows
ART.
N A PORTABLE
"Worn by Years of Solitude"
| Harry B. Wagoner, internationally
famed desert artist, neither looks nor
acts like an "artist" . . and he has been
painting for more than forty-five years.
He has a ruddy desert-tanned com-
plexion ; wears custom-tailored suits, a
ten-gallon hat and hand-tooled black
cowboy boots; lives on a 100-acre ranch
north of Beaumont during the spring
and summer and in Palm Springs dur-
ing the winter; has a wife, three chil-
dren, a daughter-in-law, a son-in-law,
and a grandchild nicknamed Smiles;
would rather eat a New York cut than
quail ; loves life and thinks that ev-
eryone, including artists, should have
a lot of fun.
He often rides in a taxi when he
comes into the city, but in the desert
he either walks or uses his specially
built sketching car which closely re-
sembles a New York penthouse on
wheels. In addition to a large supply
of oils, water colors, canvas and
brushes, the car is equipped with ham-
mock-beds, an ice box, cooking utensils
and groceries. Indeed, the only modern
conveniences it seems to lack are an
electric stove and a television set. Wag-
oner prefers to cook over wood, and
looking at the flowers, Joshua trees,
cactus, mountains, sand, sky and clouds
is entertainment enough for a man who
Harry B. Wagoner . . Artist
'Under Desert Skies"
34
Vj i\ J. Xl \J LJ O l-J Harry Wagoner exhibits his vivid paintings at The Desert Inn
oves the desert.
The car is indispensable, for with-
out it he would be unable to spend days
at a time in remote desert areas, sketch-
ing and painting. Designed for any
emergency, the unique auto can maneu-
ver through the roughest country, and
even sand dunes present no insuperable
obstacle. The car is simply converted
into a tractor by reducing the air pres-
sure in the tires to twelve pounds and
encasing them in burlap sacks.
Wagoner's vitality and zest for life
ire directly projected in his paintings,
and although his style is conserva-
tive, vibrant color and purity and
strength of line are the outstanding
qualities of his work. Using the hori-
jontal line in the majority of his desert
anvases, he avoids monotony with the
jse of bold perpendicular accents and
striking patterns of contrast. With
solidity of form and a great sense of
pace, Wagoner's work represents a
faithful rendering of nature with no
distortion of form or color. 0. 0. Mc-
intyre, during a trip through the des-
rts of the southwest, once wrote that
he was "sitting in the train and watch-
ing the Wagoner clouds go by."
Wagoner's philosophy of life, which
embraces a sincere love and apprecia-
ion of the beauty of natural scenery,
is further reflected in his painting as
serenity and balance. He believes that
art should be restful and peaceful and
finds the current trend toward extreme
abstraction interesting but not wholly
satisfying. "If you cannot digest all the
lovely scenery that has been given to
us by our Creator," he states, "you
can exist but not really live on the
vitamin pill of modern abstract art."
Many of Wagoner's oil paintings have
the freshness and spontaneity of water
colors. When he is planning a new can-
vas, he first does a quick sketch in wa-
ter color and after a lengthy "thinking
period," as he calls it, executes the final
oil painting. He doesn't believe in put-
ting in every detail of a scene, but em-
phasizes the strongest point of interest
in both color and line and merely sug-
gests the surrounding material.
When Wagoner was ten years old, his
parents gave him a box of water colors
as a Christmas present, and he has been
painting ever since. In has early teens
he left his hometown in Rochester, In-
diana, and moved to Chicago to study
with Homer Pollock. When he was six-
teen an agent from Marshall Field saw
a group of his water colors in the Pol-
lock studio and promptly purchased
them for the store. He was paid thirty
dollars for the entire group of paint-
ings, but today a single Wagoner canvas
runs into four figures.
After his training with Pollock, Wag-
oner travelled all over the states and
in 1927 went to Europe for further
study. He continued his travels in South
America. Central America and Mexico,
but returned to the United States to
paint the scenery which he considered
the most beautiful . . the desert coun-
try of the Southwest. His work has been
shown not only in the galleries of Bos-
ton, New York, Chicago and Los An-
geles, but in museums throughout the
world, and the Royal Academy in
London recently purchased one of his
paintings of the American desert.
The current exhibit of Wagoner's
work at The Desert Inn at Palm Springs
includes many of the canvases done "in
Mexico, Central America and South
America, as well as a group of desert
landscapes.
And rather than hanging the can-
vases against bare wooden or plaster
walls, Wagoner, with characteristic
eclat, has designed a setting for the
paintings as rich and striking as a
jewel box by Cartier; each painting at
the Desert Inn studio has been care-
fully hung against thick black velour,
a perfect backdrop for the brilliant
Wagoner colors.
I'Bull Dog Mountain'
"Mirage"
35
1_EE WEBER
Beautiful corded skirt with two pockets, weskit to match, by Royal of California, left. Skirt, sizes 10-20, about $9.
Weskit, sizes 10-18, about $6. At Carson's, Chicago; Capwell's, Oakland. Right, two-piece dress in Steintex
seersucker-and-chambray, by Ken Sutherland. Sizes 10-20, about $30. Carson's, Chicago,- J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles.
37
ith
hi
season wirn sunshine
mix we
Here are the basic ingredients for
your sun country wardrobe: mix-
matchables from Hollywood
Premiere. You start out with a
different kind of striped shirt (note
deep sleeve treatment), about
$11 . . then add pedal pushers,
nautically tailored and nice,
above left, about $9, or maybe
brief shorts, about $8, with jaunty
jacket, about $18 . . and finally,
choose slim, pocketed skirt in con-
trasting color, about $9. Available
in natural, navy and roseberry
shades, sizes 10-18, at Carson's,
Chicago; Bullock's, Los Angeles.
These are year-round
favorites, California style!
If you're the person who prefers a soft dressmaker playsuit, demure little skirt, and you're ready for luncheon, mar-
then this delightfully simple one-piece play suit's for you! keting, or lazy afternoons. In Celanese print, about $30
Wide straps: Joseph Zukin of California. Then add the at Carson's, Chicago; Bullock's, Palm Springs.
Bare bodice, stripes, and a stole . . . three important fash- Here's what you'll love over swim or sunsuit: Turkish toweling
ion points combined in one sundress with a dozen uses. Showerobe by Normandin. About $10 at Bullock's, Palm
By Royal of California, under $20 at Carson's, Chicago. Springs; J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago.
39
Court the sun, left, ... in Georgia Kay's bare-ly
beautiful cotton, checked bolero cover-up;
sizes 10-16. Under $25 at Carson's, Chicago;
Desmond's, Los Angeles; Dayton's, Minneapolis.
Flirtatious eyelet embroidery pinafore dress with
sash that ties in bow in back; by Addie Masters,
below. Sizes 10-18, about $35 at
Carson's, Chicago; Meier & Frank, Portland;
Neiman-Marcus, Dallas.
BEN PARKE
40
A classic dress in Shirley's Topper
lightweight rayon gabardine
by Ken Sutherland. Pockets in
front give torso effect.
Leather belt and self-covered
buttons. About $35, sizes
10-20, at J. J. Haggarty's,
Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago.
Softly tailored, and perfect for
an active life out-of-doors!
n e n an
Frost-white linen for your sun-bright days . . .
highlighting the crisp loveliness of
matching shoes and handbag. Flattering
pumps, sling-back, pastels, too:
Ted Saval, about $14. Ben Brody over-arm
handbag, about $19. At better stores.
d
p
th
earner
The rich splendor of leather in
glowing spring colors . . . the new
lemon shade, too! Vic Colton's
flattering strap sandal, about
|$9, at better stores. Emmet
handbag, top grain cowhide, full
suede lining, about $25.
Carson's, Chicago.
MILDRED DUKE
For a country outing or all-around-town, two tailored dresses by Ann Gray with classic simplicity and smart pocket
detail. Left, 10-20. Right, 12-20. About $18. At Carson's, Chicago; Bullock's, Los Angeles; White House, San Francisco.
BEN PARKER
Introducing an exciting new fabric, wool shantung, Rosenblum designs another California classic, perfect suit for travel
all year 'round. Sizes 10-20, about $50. Carson's, Chicago; The Broadway, Los Angeles; B. Altman & Co., New York.
45
Four-part harmony to key your wardrobe . . .
Barney Max deftly blends Botany's Tumble Tweed,
Marchan gabardine. Left, shortie coat, about $45.
Above, flattery in a gabardine classic, about $50.
LEE WEBEI
Keeping perfect time to your tailored theme . . . left,
Barney Max tweed coat, with gabardine edging, about $70.
Right, tweed-top suit, gabardine skirt, about $50. Matching colors,
sizes 10-20. At Carson's, Chicago; The Broadway, Los Angeles.
47
This House Brings
The Outdoors In
BURTON SCHUTT'S USE OF WOODS
AND "GROWING THINGS" COMBINES WITH
HIS UNUSUAL DESIGN FOR LIVING
Y^«p ! ----- I »
n Li' PArco
skelter
^4ri-
i*
mr
4i
UNAI
jjurton Schutt, designer, creat
jW the fabulous Bel-Air Hotel
/ • Southern California on a ridi:
A | stable lot . . replete with cole
convenience and the flora a:
fauna of South America and romantic F
cific isles. Then he designed a lovely 1
tie house for himself, nearby, on Sto
Canyon Road, to further express his "P
cific Style" of coordinated architects
interior and exterior planting. These pag
glimpse the smaller brainchild of the m;
who plumps continually for the Californ
Way of Life . . who decries the poun
forms of convention and the grey-dri
houses of the prairie.
Three thousand square ,feet of natui
woods and plants andvngenuity in tl
one-story "outdoor" home give ample e
dence of elbow room, yet the elements •
the house, planned as separate entitif
combine into California Living on a sh
pie, yet beautiful scale. Planted areas co
nect each part of the house with the ne:
A master bedroom, two additional be
rooms, sitting room-study, library, dinii
nook, kitchen, maid's room, lanai and pat
The living room-lanai of this Bel-Air home is blessed with the warmth of nature and of wood
Sheltered patio, shown at lower right, affords privacy and beautiful view of all outdoors
plan provides for related separate structures
ill are interrelated in the overall
ling to take maximum advantage of
ind air and "green things growing."
roughout the house the visitor is im-
ed and delighted with the copious
f woods in their natural texture, plant-
where walls and doors could have
Burton Schutt will tell you that the
was constructed of humble materials
) prove that proper planning, plant-
md fenestration achieve an elegance
s not always found with the expendi-
frl of large sums of money. The dra-
nk raised fireplace in the lanai. for
Ifple. is made of a specially cast con-
ti block to resemble flagstone; the
lated wall was constructed of random
Illness pine strips; dining room walls
raof birch, and lattices in both house
hi garden create a filtered light and
■ring areas for plants as well.
r here's the usual utility, too. but let
life pictures tell their story. Let the sun-
||e in . . invite the beauty of nature
6 pip furnish your house . . adapt these
Bos for your own . . live like the Cali-
oians do!
Top, left, shows comfortable simplicity of the study . . with access to light and air
Top, right, displays lanai wall and steps to the dining nook beyond
Middle, left, novel dressing room off master bedroom has windows and skylights, too
Middle, right, master bedroom with its glazed opportunity for letting outdoors in
Lower, left, shows dining nook off lanai with built-in bench and lattice
Lower, right, boy's bedroom with work table, wall map, book shelves and easy chairs
And at left is one corner of the patio displaying geometric design and cooling lattice
' J
A good cook would as soon find herself without butter
or flour as to have an empty lemon bin. That's not
because lemons are the main ingredients of lemon
pie or lemon jelly or whiskey sour (how did that get into
the kitchen?), but because they are so absolutely indis-
pensable in many dishes. They are the bit of magic that
makes something very special out of something everyday.
A few drops of that lovely juice in a curry, a thin amber
slice floating on a bowl of chicken soup, a transparent
wedge giving character to a dish of prunes . . . the lemon
enlivens everything it touches. The Romans, who were
supposed to be civilized, used them only as a means of
driving away moths, but as they ate mice dipped in honey
and a sauce made of goodness-knows-what parts of very
ripe fish, their taste in food is a trifle suspect. Sydney
Smith, on the other hand, who knew more than a thing
or two about food, spoke in contempt of a place that was
"twelve miles from a lemon" . . the ends of the earth,
no doubt.
Lemons were said to have been brought to California by
the Spanish adventurers, not by the Mission Fathers. That
is a considerable relief to those of us who were beginning
to wonder if the good Father Serra had a fleet of ten-
ton trucks in which to cart all the trees and plants that
he was supposed to have brought to the Golden State. But
no matter how lemons got here they have certainly made
themselves at home. California now raises ninety-five per
cent of all the lemons used in the United States. Lemons
require a more even climate than do oranges and they
also require a tremendous amount of pampering. The
California Fruit Growers Exchange . . Sunkist to you . .
knows just how to treat them: they literally handle them
with gloves. Picked when they're green, they're clipped,
not pulled, from the trees, graded and given a gentle bath.
Then they are allowed to rest in air-conditioned rooms,
and finally swathed in that familiar yellow tissue wrapper
and shipped to every part of the world. A lemon tree,
which bears all year round, is a mighty handy thing to
have in your kitchen yard, but as everyone can't live in
California, the next best thingk is to have a dozen or so
California lemons always on hand.
The lemon, though first cousin to the orange, has con-
CALIFORNIA
siderable more character, and. like people with definite
personalities, a little goes a long way. That is why this
business of a recipe calling for the juice of half a lemon,
or three lemons, is a risky business: too large a lemon
might make the dish too acid, too small a one may not
give the needed tang. Lemon sizes vary from the huge
240's (240 to a box, that is) to the smallest 540's, so
that it's easy to see that when a recipe calls for the juice
of one lemon it ain't necessarily so.
The whole country has taken up the salad called, vari-
ously, Caesar, Di Cicco, and Calif ornian; the salad that
depends upon a lemon for its charm. Here's another
similar salad . . one that uses no vinegar at all and thus
depends even more on that delightful fruit, the lemon.
SALAD RITCHIE This salad requires a little advance
preparation: make a cupful of croutons by cutting bread in
half-inch cubes and baking in the oven untilthey are crisp
and brown. Cook an egg for exactly one minute. Grate
some Parmesan cheese so that you have a half cup. Wash
two large heads of romaine and put them in the crisper.
Peel and dice a large cucumber. Now for the mixing: rub
your largest salad bowl with a cut clove of garlic. Rub
hard so that the garlic will literally disappear. Dry the
romaine and break it into the bowl. Add the cucumbers, a
cup of sour cream, and a teaspoon of salt, two table-
spoons of melted butter, several grindings of black pepper
and the coddled egg scooped from the shell. Squeeze the
juice of two lemons over the egg and mix well (squeezing
the lemons directly into the salad is part of the ritual
so the juice can't be measured. Let's say that the lemons
are medium-sized ones.) Now add the cheese and mix well.
At the very last minute toss in the croutons, give the
salad another turn or two and serve. And I'm the gal who
has said that you can't make a proper salad without olive
oil and wine vinegar!
Does the idea of serving potatoes with lemon juice shock
you ? Try this once and I promise you it won't.
NEW POTATOES ANNANDALE Boil tiny new po-
tatoes either peeled or not as you prefer and dress them
with a sauce made by melting a quarter of a pound of
butter and adding a teaspoon of grated lemon rind, salt,
pepper, four tablespoons of lemon juice and a tablespoon
of minced chives. This is really something.
The lemon is a saucy little fruit and there are precious
few sauces that can get along without its presence. From
that simplest of all, pure lemon juice, to the elaborate
compound sauces made with an Espagnole base, it is the
| lemon that points up the flavor. Here's one of the easiest
and most famous:
MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER Cream a quarter of a
| pound of butter and work in three tablespoons of lemon
juice and the same amount of minced parsley. Add the
merest speck of cayenne and serve with fish or any grilled
meats such as steak, chops, liver, kidneys or spareribs. If
you wish, the butter may be formed in balls with wooden
paddles and rolled in the parsley. Pretty.
Recipes for barbecue sauces are a dime a gross and
most of them, for my money, worth not a penny more.
This is because so many of them are too searingly hot. This
one. made with lemon juice, brings out, rather than drowns,
the flavor of the meat.
of lemon juice, salt, pepper and a tablespoon of minced
parsley. Cut the steak into long strips after it has been
grilled to your taste and pour the hot sauce over it be-
fore serving. And if you're cussing at my extravagance,
use salad oil instead of the olive oil and serve it on ham-
burgers. It's good that way. too.
Here's another sauce that is quick and easy. Good for
chops, hamburgers, kidneys.
LEMON MUSTARD SAUCE Heat a squashed clove of
garlic in a quarter of a cup of heavy cream. Remove the
garlic, add two tablespoons of prepared mustard and three
tablespoons of lemon juice, very slowly. Simmer gently
for a few minutes before serving.
Some people seem to think that the lemon garnish
served with so many meats at fancy restaurants is just
that . . a garnish. If only they'd flow a little of that lemon
juice over their broiled chicken, add a squeeze or two
to their sizzling kidney saute, bless their grilled mush-
rooms with a few precious drops, they would know what
the chef was about. A good chef, like a good cook, never
underestimates the power of a lemon.
In Georgia they serve a wonderful crab stew that has
a whole lemon, skin and all. ground up and added. Cali-
fornians. with their superb Pacific crabs, should certainly
adopt it.
GEORGIAN CRAB STEW Make a roux with two ta-
blespoons of flour and two of butter. Add three cups of
rich milk and cook for a few minutes. Season with salt,
pepper, a teaspoon of prepared mustard and a half a
lemon which has had the seeds removed and has been
ground very fine. Add two cups of crab meat and simmer
for another minute or two before serving with hot beaten
biscuits.
That's just a beginning of what lemons can do for flavor.
Next time you wonder what's wrong with your pot roast,
why your mayonnaise isn't perfect, what you can do to
improve your strawberry jam, stop wondering . . . try
lemon juice!
COOKS
by helen evans brown
BARBECUE SAUCE Cook a quarter of a cup of minced
onions and two cloves of minced garlic in a half cup
each of melted butter, salad oil. tomato catsup, lemon
juice and tomato juice. Add a quarter of a cup of minced
parsley, a teaspoon of salt, a half teaspoon of fresh
ground pepper, a half teaspoon of dr\r mustard and a tea-
spoon of oregano. Simmer gently for twenty minutes
and use to brush on meats, any kind, while they are bar-
becuing. Try this with chicken and fish, too . . the lemon
makes it perfect with either.
Most of the classic meat sauces that are featured on
the menus of the best hotels and restaurants require Es-
pagnole sauce as a base. As the making of that sauce is
a rather involved procedure it will have to be left for
some future issue of California Cooks. Here, however, is an
excellent steak sauce that does not need that basic sauce:
SAUCE THEODORE Cook a quarter of a cup of
minced onion and a crushed clove of garlic in two cups
of Pinot Noir (or any red table wine) until the liquid is
reduced to one half. Remove garlic and add six tablespoons
of butter, two tablespoons of olive oil, six tablespoons
*
%
<A\-
Vf
"-:4:
AT
"-L
SOME WOMEN ARE LIKE THAT
BY FLORA BENOIT
I
just wouldn't do it! I'd put my foot down," Nina Wilson
exclaimed. Nina's a neighbor of mine, 'though we don't
see each other often. Our husbands work in Los Angeles and
we live on adjoining ranches in the Malibu Hills. I'd stopped
at the Wilson place on my way in to the market to do week-
end shopping.
"You mean you're still staying home to cook for a gang of
people every Sunday?" Nina went on, incredulous.
"It's not my idea, Nina," I told her. "You know how Dave
loves to entertain. I feel that he should be able to do what
he wants to on his one day at home. He likes having his busi-
ness associates and our friends out to the place, and thev
seem to thoroughly enjoy spending a day in the country."
"And let you slave over a hot stove all day, cooking for
them," she supplied.
I laughed at that. I could hardly see myself in such a
role; bedraggled, self-pitying wife, drooping slavishly over
a hot frying pan.
"Oh, I'm not the slaving kind." I told her, still laughing.
"I really don't fuss at all. We entertain most informally al
our house."
"Fuss or no fuss, it's work," she insisted. "A man jusl
doesn't realize how much. Jack's the same way. He'd be
having someone out here every Sunday too, if I didn't put my
foot down. Believe me, I think a woman is entitled to a day
off, the same as a man. Jack even gets up and fixes my break-
fast on Sunday," she added a little smugly.
I got out as soon as I could. I simply have no time nor
sympathy for such martyrdom. Besides, Saturday shopping
takes hours. Guests come early to our house . . the more
time to spend hiking, horseback riding, or just being lazy in
the sun. Whatever the activity, I have to figure on plenty of
food.
I'd barely flicked the last speck of dust from the living-
room furniture that evening when Dave drove into the garage.
"The Wilsons always go out to dinner on Sunday," I re
marked later that night to the worst side of the funny paper.
"Nina Wilson never has to cook on Sunday." I said, raising
my voice. "Jack even fixes her breakfast."
"H'm? You say something to me?" Dave sat up and handed
me the funnies.
"I was just thinking," I began, "that it would be rather
nice not to have to do anything on Sunday but putter around
and be by ourselves. And then maybe go out to dinner, some-
place downtown."
"We-ell," Dave considered.
"I'm getting tired of slaving over a hot stove for a gang
of people very week," I blurted out.
Dave looked surprised. "Why honey," he exclaimed. "I
didn't know you felt that way about it. I thought you enjoyed
it. You always seem to."
"Well I do," I admitted guiltily. "But it's a lot of work.
I don't think a man realizes how much. A woman's entitled
to a day off, too, the same as a man. Don't you think so?"
Dave got up and went to mix a couple of drinks. "We can
go into town for dinner if you want to." he said from behind
the bar. "If you don't mind the traffic."
That's something. We live just a mile off a scenic high-
way, and the joy-riders on Sundays are legion. I hate driving
in such traffic, even more than Dave does. In fact, I've often
said it would take a date with Walter Pidgeon to get me into
town on Sunday afternoon.
Dave has a way. when my little inconsistencies crop out.
of showing me just how impractical I am. He doesn't say
so at all. He's really very nice about it. He simply enumerates
the unpleasant features, and leaves the decision to me. I
wind up feeling like a neurotic, half-grown woman for hav-
ing mentioned the thing in the first place.
Well, the next day went by very much as all our Sundays
go. I fried chickens and fixed the garlic-bread that everyone
liked so much. It's the last time. I told myself. I like fun
and hilarity, the well-mannered kind of course. And as a
rule I don't mind a bit staying in the kitchen to toss the
salad and mix the dressing my guests pronounce just right.
But that day a thin little veil of self pity was floating around
my head, and it was beginning to flap in my eyes. Finally
the last car whirled out of the drive. The "swell times" and
"see you soons" carried across the lawn.
"Not if I have anything to say about it." I mumbled to
myself and went back in the house to stack the dishes.
The next Sunday morning I was wakened by the alarm
at six o'clock. "Good heavens, Dave." I groaned. "Did
you forget it was Sunday?"
"No-o-o," he yawned, reaching for the clock. "I thought so
long as no one's coming out today. I'd get up and do some
things around here."
That meant I'd have to get up, too. I like a leisurely break-
fast on the terrace, around nine or ten on Sunday. Some-
times guests arrive while we are still at the table and we
all have coffee and cigarettes together.
By the time I got into slacks and a blouse. Dave, looking
rugged and ready-for-work in levis and a plaid shirt, was
already in the kitchen fussing with the silex. A scrambled
egg which looked as if it had been cooked the week before,
fried harder in a pan on the stove.
"Wanta pour the coffee?" Dave was disgustingly cheerful
as he sat down at the bare kitchen table. He beamed at me
as I placed the mat before him and arranged the silver. 1
slipped a couple slices of bread in the toaster and pried the
egg loose from the pan. put it on his plate, poured the coffee
and sat down at the table.
"Nice of you to cook breakfast," I said.
He brushed it„off. "Oh, that's all right. Glad to do it. Anyj
time."
As soon as he was outside. I poured my coffee in the sink
and started another pot. I can stand anything weak but coffee.
All morning Dave wandered about, tapping the fences with
a stick and petting the cows. About ten I got tired following
him and hobbled back to the house to lie in the hammock.
At noon we ate lunch in the kitchen, Dave insisting; that all
he wanted was a bowl of soup and a glass of milk. It was
quite different from the usual Sunday lunches of cold cuts,
potato salad and rye bread, served on the shady terrace with ■
beer and gay laughter. After lunch Dave went back to his
tapping and petting, while I lay in the hammock, listening
in vain for the sound of a motor.
At five we came in and showered. I had an eight-pound
standing rib roast I'd purchased the day before without think-
ing. I opened the refrigerator door. "Shall we just have
chops and a salad?" I suggested. "I thought it would be silly
to cook this big roast."
"Oh, don't bother." Dave said pleasantly, going to the cup-
board. "If there's some cream. I think I'll just have a bowl I
of cereal."
"Can't I interest you in a Newburg?" I asked. "There's a I
can of lobster. And we can eat on the patio."
"No-o-o. I don't think so." he said. "I'm not very hungry. I
Suppose you sit down and let me fix the supper."
I don't like cereal and cream, so I drank a glass of milk ,
and ate a cookie. At eight o'clock we'd turned out the bed-
room light.
"Well it's been a nice restful day. hasn't it?" Dave yawned
peacefully.
"Dave." I said, "do you think the Wilsons would fit in with
the crowd? I'd like to ask them over next Sundav. I don't
know why. but I feel a bit sorry for Nina."
52
f?f f;
Be bold and bare your shoulders, or wear the new cuffed neckline in demure cover-up fashion . . . it's a "coke style'
by Saba of California, in a crisp cotton Fuller Fabric . . . fresh as a breeze with wild geese flying!
Puffed sleeves, full skirt, wide contrasting sash. Sizes 9-15, it's only about $11 at stores shown on page 70.
53
previewed at palm springs
California has new fashions aplenty for men. The recent Palm Springs Fashion Show
. . which was devoted entirely to men . . predicted that there will be livelier colors
and new styles in every man's wardrobe soon. Two of the outstanding styles were
the tie-front "Picaro" sport shirt designed by Hollywood Rogue and the gold
and rust jacket-slack-shirt combination shown by M. Jackman & Sons. The plaid
"Picaro" was inspired by the native style of Old Mexico. It has no shirttails but it
ties in front, blouse-style. It is washable. About $10. The gold lightweight jacket,
handst itched in Forstmann Charmain gabardine, has the new half -belt back with
pleats and shoulder-shirring. In a soft shade of gold it contrasts beautifully with
the matching rust slacks and shirt. About $95.
"Picaro," by Hollywood Rogue, is available at: Krupp & Tuffly, Houston;
Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh; Lip man -Wolfe, Portland; Stewart Co.,
Baltimore; Mclnerny's, Honolulu; T. Eaton Co., Canada; The Fair, Fort Worth;
Monte Factor's, Beverly Hills; Carson-Pirie-Scott, Chicago, and J. L. Hudson, Detroit.
The gold jacket by M. Jackman is available at: Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Leighton's,
New York; Jerry Rothschild, Beverly Hills; Burdine's, Miami; De Pinna, New York;
Scholnik's, Detroit; Halle Bros., Cleveland, and Mclnerny's, Honolulu.
54
"The one dress" every wardrobe depends upon . . . two versions in sheer
or tissue failles: Max Kopp. Perfect at home or under coats, lovely at
tea or the dinner hour. Tucking to mold a pretty figure . . .
so slim and elegant. About $30, sizes 10-18. Stores listed on page 69.
bewitching
BLACK as night, and just as in-
triguing: the ankle-length cocktail
dress in crepe, with soft draping of
French embroidered dotted net and
one huge black rose at the bosom
... it is so perfect for New Year's
Eve and after. By Edith Small.
Right, soft lights . . and the loveliness of pure ti«
silk: Georgia Bullock. Sizes 10-16, about
$75. Bonwit Teller, New York; Kerr's, Oklahoma City.
n a romantic mood
For your most dramatic entrance, righi, this boldly
beautiful dinner dress: Dorothy O'Hara. Exotic
print fabric: California Authentics. Sizes 1 0 to 18,
under $90. Buffums', Long Beach; Bullock's, Los Angeles.
For dancing or romancing, enchantment in portrait necklines . . opposite page, left and right, new seersucker nylon
with shawl collar, Viola Dimmitt, about $50 at B. Altman & Co., New York. Opposite page, Center, Marbert's beau-
catcher of crisp taffeta with plunging neckline, about $50. Available in stores in February. This page, above left,
multiple-button blouse, flared skirt, by Deauville Models, each about $18, A. Harris, Dallas; Bullock's Los Angeles.
Above, right, Peggy Hunt's taffeta suit, about $69, Best's Apparel, Seattle.
59
/
Underlining perfections . . . above.
Beautee-Fit lace and satin bra with Ions
line feature. Center, satin and leno
paneled pantie girdle by
^sel of Hollywood. % Below, lace.
and satin bra with undercup stitching
by Form-O-Uth.
J^""
Word-Stringer for Stars
ISOBEL LENNART OVERCAME REAL OBSTACLES FOR A HOLLYWOOD CAREER
by marion simms
Sj rom an $18-a-week studio stenographer, Isobel Len-
nart has become Hollywood's youngest high-priced
writer. And she just turned thirty.
Being in the child prodigy class . . the youngest stu-
dent ever to enter Smith College . . may have something
to do with her extraordinary progress as a writer. But
she thinks it's her one-track mind. Since the days when
her hair was in braids and her teeth in braces, she has
been determined to become a screen writer.
Anchors Aiveigh, Holiday in Mexico, and It Happened
in Brooklyn carry her name for the screen play . . a
rarity in a business where a musical staff usually re-
quires as much footage to list as does the cast. Frank
Sinatra, who feels that Anchors Aweigh cast him for the
first time as a "human" character, always asks for Miss
Lennart on his pictures. And Gene Kelly is equally en-
thusiastic.
Isobel appreciates the compliments, but wants seri-
ous stories. Like Lost Angel, a B picture which quickly
was raised to the A brackets after its first trade show-
ing, and won an award from New York's Metropolitan
Youth Council as the most original screenplay of the
year. Based on an idea by Angna Enters, Isobel added
some touches from her own remarkable childhood. And
it was this picture that starred Margaret O'Brien for the
first time, revealed Keenan Wynn's talents as a comedian.
Right now she is working on an idea she has been
mulling for some time . . a serious theme concerning
Pan-American relations. She will call it Remember Me,
and will do research work at the Rockefeller Foundation
in New York for some of the background material.
Daughter of an English woman and an Austrian-
American doctor, Edward Hochdorf, Isobel uses part
of her mother's maiden name, Livingston-Lennart, pro-
fessionally. She traveled widely as a child, but in Eng-
land, at the age of seven, there was tragedy. A riding
accident paralyzed a muscle in her thigh. For two years
she could not walk . . then there was a perceptible limp.
Only two years ago did she completely recover.
"I had been protecting my injured leg for years," she
related, "not realizing that exercise was needed, not rest.
One day I began to think about all the dancing and
tennis I had missed. I started exercising regularly, and
finally I was entirely well."
With her new husband, John Briard Harding III,
actor and writer, Isobel is happily making up for those
lost years of sports and parties.
She had private tutors during her early school years.
Lessons were a snap, because of her total-recall memory.
Luckily, she says, this faculty for mirrorlike memorizing
faded during college and she had to draw on logic and
reasoning in her lessons. And because she knew nothing
of methods in American schools, her father sent her to a
girls' high school in Brooklyn for six months as a pre-
liminary to entering Smith.
Six months were enough for little Isobel to become
editor of the school paper and to discover what she
wanted to do with her life. At Smith, then a "progres-
sive" school, 14-year-old Isobel organized a film group
to show Russian, French and German films regularly.
"This was even before it was the vogue to run these
films in little theatres," said Miss Lennart. "We girls
studied foreign writers through some of these great
films, and then sat around and discussed them." She
studied physics to learn about photography. During
vacations she persuaded a family friend, production man-
ager at the old Astoria studio on Long Island, to let
her work as a script girl.
After three years at Smith, Miss Lennart returned to
Manhattan and received her B.A. degree at New York
University. She was 18, and didn't want to waste any
more time reaching her promised land of Hollywood.
"At that time I had a very intellectual approach to
films," she recalls. "I had studied the productions of
Eisenstein and the books on screen technique by Paul
Rothe. I thought a picture must be foreign to be worth-
while. I soon got over that!"
In Forest Hills, Isobel's father said "no" to the west-
ward career trip. Isobel went back to N.Y.U. for her
master's degree. Her first job was in the research de-
partment of the Book of the Month Club. By the time
she was 20 she was both researcher and reader, her as-
sociates being twice and thrice her age. She was earning
a good salary, but she never forgot her original ambi-
tion. Reluctantly, her father finally agreed to a three
months' trial in Hollywood.
"I had letters of introduction to some people at
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and was so thrilled and awed
to find myself, at last, inside a Hollywood lot that I took
the first job offered me."
This was in stenography . . at $18 a week. There
were baffling, and often humorous, angles to her work.
After she had been there six months, she wrote an in-
formal account of her daily work. It was printed in a
studio publication edited by Nard Jones, one of the
writers on the lot.
When the head of the stenographic department read
this literary effort, Isobel was dismissed.
"It was actually a disciplinary firing," she said. "In
a few weeks I had a call to come back to work." By
then, though, she had jubilantly discovered Fox studio,
where it was possible for a girl to be a script clerk.
With her usual intensity, she set about mastering the
details of this exacting job. Norman Foster, then a direc-
tor for Fox, let her do a bit of dialogue now and then.
And after holding the script on B pictures for a couple
of years, Isobel had an unexpected chance to do some
writing. A story was needed in a hurry for Jane Withers.
62
If she could turn it out in two weeks Isobel was prom-
ised $100.
She called the story Small Town Deb, and still thinks
it one of the best pieces of writing she has ever done.
She got another $50 for polishing the dialogue after an
established screen writer had done the script.
But instead of the impetus she expected after this
small triumph, Isobel found herself before a high wall.
There was no job in Hollywood, it appeared, for a writer
who could turn out $100 stories in a rush.
She went back to script clerking. To keep up her cour-
age, she spent her spare time writing a story with an-
other ambitious young writer. After a day at the studio,
she would hurry home to work half the night on Once
Upon a Thursday with Lee Gold. Daytimes she was
so sleepy that the words of the Hellza Poppin script at
Universal blurred before her eyes.
There were nibbles on the finished story, but nothing
happened. Isobel began to "break down" the scenes
for Tales of Manhattan, and suddenly knew she couldn't
stand being a script girl for even one more picture. Papa
was right. She was going home. She counted her money,
less than $100, and phoned for a railroad ticket. In a
mood of great desolation she began to pack. At mid-
night the telephone rang. The agent handling the story
had sold it to a producer. Could she postpone her trip?
Could she!
"The next morning Lee Gold and I reported for work
as writers at M.G.M. Lee was 26 and looked about 18.
I was a couple of years older than he and looked equally
as kiddish. When we opened the producer's door, he
took one look and groaned."
He would be ashamed to introduce them as his writers,
he explained. People would think he was reduced to
hiring school children.
Considerably deflated, they hid themselves in a back
office and finished their story in the one week's time
allotted them. Once Upon a Thursday reached the screen
as The Affairs of Martha and surprised everyone by
being decidedly successful. Soon after, Gold went into
the army and Isobel was put to work writing Stranger
In Town with William Kozlenko.
When her salary reached the $150 a week level (to-
day it is four figures) she telephoned her father in
New York to tell him the good news.
"That's good," her father said quietly.
When Isobel remarked that he didn't sound very en-
thusiastic, there was a long pause, then he said gently.
"Yes, it is a fine salary, my dear. But does it make
grandchildren?"
Now, as Mrs. Harding, the young writer is sketching
plans for their dream house at Trancas Beach, above
Malibu. It will be primarily an enormous living room.
A winding staircase will lead to a workroom-den where
a huge table will hold their two big noisy typewriters
. . one at each end.
A similar room-long table dominates Isobel's Beverly
Hills apartment, the wood finished in a shade that almost
matches her tawny blonde hair. "No drawers," she says,
"because who ever heard of a writer who didn't want
everything stacked on top for easy reaching."
Her own writing habit is to relax comfortably on her
studio couch with a writing board in her lap. After a
page or two, she transfers it to the typewriter . . all
to the accompaniment of soft background record music.
"Dialogue, especially, seems to be more natural this
way than writing it directly on the machine."
On the subject of dialogue, Miss Lennart has an in-
teresting theory: "Each person has a certain rhythm-
cadence. If the writer can catch that, the dialogue will
sound like conversation, instead of stilted sentences."
Frank Sinatra, for instance, has a slow, gentle
cadence. For him, she writes wandering, incomplete
sentences. Gene Kelly's, in contrast, is a staccato beat
Isobel Lennart "almost always" knew what she wanted
. . zip and zing.
Although Isobel always has liked to work at home,
and late at night, she definitely dislikes working alone.
"I always get lonesome and start thinking of things to
do, like cleaning out the dresser or baking a cake. Or
I begin calling up people, anybody, just to hear a human
voice."
Then she got the idea of having a "sitter." They have
baby sitters; why not writer sitters, she reasoned.
At first, a young cousin visiting her did the "sitting,"
keeping her at work when she showed signs of wavering
to a stop for coffee. Later, Isobel had the idea of ad-
vertising for a sitter. As it turned out, there were a
surprising number of people around Hollywood and
Beverly Hills who were pleased to collect a dollar an
hour to sit in an adjoining room . . with the door ajar
. . and read, knit, play the radio or make "homey sounds."
Now that she has a husband-writer, the problem is
nicely solved. They keep each other at the task of
stringing words.
Recovery from her physical disability gives Isobel
as much happiness as does her amazing film success.
Lameness during her adolescence brought an inferiority
complex, and the weight she put on during her years
of inactivity added to it. The bright spot of that period
is that she occupied herself with a tremendous amount
of good reading, directed by her parents.
"I found out an interesting thing with my recovery,"
she said. "My former spendthrift habits had been a
sort of compensation for my personal troubles. No mat-
ter how much money I made, I never saved any. In
my early days in Hollywood I was always heavily in
debt. Then, with my leg back to normal and my weight
slimmed down, my spending sprees vanished."
Of her early precocity, she said, she fears she was
more quizzical than quiz-kid. She doesn't wish it for
any youngster. "You miss the good times of your own
age-crowd. The one advantage I can see to growing up
early is that it gives you more time to correct the mis-
takes of early days."
Now, at thirty, she feels the best part of her life is
just beginning.
Her studio doesn't acknowledge her advanced years.
As Sinatra is referred to as The Voice, and Marie Mac-
Donald. The Body. Isobel Lennart is known as The Kid.
63
i
.-*_.
ARE SO ROMANTIC!
Dress up to romance with a casual air! Hats of felt bedecked
with feathers, fur and jewels. Opposite page above,
wings in forward flight by Suzy Lee. Center, velour with
brilliant feathered bird; Caspar-Davis. Below,
softly crushed crown with jeweled band from Phil Strann. This
page left, tiny felt with gay birds; Weyman Brothers.
Right, pillbox banded with leopard fur, Agnes Originals.
It's calico with Bates picolay for the young miss,
by Jean Durain. Above left, midriff and skirt. Center,
gathered bodice playdress. Right, dress with puff
sleeves. Lower left, halter play suit. At May Co.,
Los Angeles; A. Harris, Dallas; Wm. Filene's, Boston.
X he ''eternal triangle"' isn't confined to today's movies . . . and in rather violent
testimony to this fact, many an early California romance flamed in spite of matri-
monial obstacles. Worthy of full technicolor treatment was the fiery affair of
Tiburcio Vasquez, the bandit, and lovely Rosario. This vivacious senora was (un-
fortunately, for the cause of love) the wife of Abdon Leiva of Chualar. The dashing
outlaw, hero and idol of native Californians who resented Americans, was often
sheltered at Leiva's rancho between his numerous raids on the encroaching gringo.
Gaiety reigned whenever Tiburcio sought refuge there . . . and soon he and
Rosario had danced their hearts away. Eventually drought brought poverty to
the rancho and Leiva. persuaded by Rosario's hints of cowardice, reluctantly joined
the daring band . . . Tiburcio's flashing eyes were enough to whisk senora into the
life of an outlaw. As the marauding group struck at settlements and withdrew
into canyon hideouts. Leiva grew increasingly suspicious of the melting glances
between the pair. Finally he trapped them in loving embrace . . . furious, he
challenged Tiburcio to a duel. This man of unnumbered sins had, nevertheless,
a strange code of his own and refused to kill Leiva, which he most certainly
would do in a contest . . . since he had already offended him by stealing his
wife. So Rosario was led away, weeping, by her fuming husband . . . Tiburcio
brooded over his lost love. But not for long. Four posses were trailing the famous
bandit with the black cloak lined in red, and he and his lieutenant, Chavez, led
them an exhausting chase through the desert and marshes. At last Tiburcio could
stand the separation no longer and rode to find his Rosario. He found her
in the cabin of Jim Heffner, friend of the lawless, and learned that Leiva had
gone to betray him to the sheriff. The lovers promptly escaped into the night.
Now, posses thundered over roads north, south, and west . . . Tiburcio Vasquez.
dead or alive! Rosario fretted constantly of the danger to her lover and pleaded
with him to flee to Mexico . . . finally he
promised, "after one more raid." And
then, just as if the movies had
ordered it, this reckless avenger
of the Californians was trapped
and made captive at Greek
George's Ranch, which
is now, fittingly, the
scene of many a sim-
ilar denouement .
Hollywood.
by alice carey
THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949
button, button.
who's got the button?
EMMET OF CALIFORNIA
CREATES THE SMART. NEW.
^LZ It's [charming . . . it's different . . . it's
— roomy.!> Adjustable shoulder strap, ^
inner suede pocket.
Convenient outer pouch, as well as
complete bag full-weight suede lined.
Top grain cowhide in Lemon, Smoke,
Flame, Green. Burnr Mocha. Black,
with contrasting buttons.
Mtdium size about S20.00 plus tax
Latgc size about (25. 00 plus tax
Oeagn Pal. Pending
2837 WEST PICO, LOS ANGELES 6. CALIFORNIA
EVERY DAY
FROM 11:30
VENTURA BLVD.
1 block west of
Coldwater Canyon
LA CIENEGA BLVD
1 Block north of Wilshire
BE GOOD
. . to yourself!
• Enjoy a pleasant surprise Every Month
• Twelve times a year The Californian
Magazine will bring you enjoyment,
smart new fashions, interesting ar-
ticles, California Living, yummy recipes
• Subscribe Now . . to The Californian
Magazine
• Twelve exciting issues for $3; Two
Years for $5; Three Years for $7.50
Write to The Californian Magazine
1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15
67
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
uifts in the
\jalifornia manner
HAND-PAINTED BLACKBOARDS: Personalized with your
first name (or the kiddie's name) too! For the nursery,
child s board features hand -painted illustration of child
and balloons; while kitchen blackboard features hand-
painted fruif . Both boards measure 12x16 inches. $2.95
each, postpaid.
TINY-TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very handy
For bathroom use. Aluminum frame, painted plywood
steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped fiat, easily as-
sembled. $3.95 (add 25c for postage).
TORSO GLASS AND JIGGER: Ceramic Torso Gloss for
highballs, beer. In the shape of a corset-encased torso,
and we 1 1 -developed, too. Also use for flowers, plants.
Colors: green, yellow, pink, blue. $1.25 postpaid.
Matching ceramic jigger holds 1 -oz. in bust; a double
jigger in base. $1.00, postpaid.
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, phase add 2,/?°/a sales tax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
IANCHO SANTA FE • CAUFOINIA
IN JANUARY
1 n January, you pays your money
and you takes your choice . . to utilize
an old bromide to illustrate the versa-
tility of things to do and see in this
lead-off month in the new year. Despite
the promise of a few high fogs (rain to
you), January will have many a balmy
day . . and the sports and social pro-
gram is full to the brim.
Beginning with the Rose Bowl game,
the races at colorful Santa Anita, snow
sports in nearby Lake Arrowhead and
other mountains meccas, you can enjoy
your favorite outdoor hobbies even to
swimming under a winter sun at Palm
Springs only three hours' drive away.
Obviously, your California wardrobe
depends a great deal upon your plans
of things to do. Beginning with the
travel suit and a warm coat (furs if you
have them ) , seasoned with a raincoat
and rubbers . . the rest may include such
diversities as ski clothes and a sunsuit!
But aside from your sports "needies,"
you'll find occasion to wear evening
clothes if you like, although a cocktail
dress or suit will be equally good taste.
The elegant fabrics of today's afternoon
clothes make them ideal for after-dark
going as well.
The new spring prints, tiny geometries
and exotic in mood, are effective in
these post-holidays. And a lighter
weight, lighter toned suit will have both
the required warmth and the forward
look of spring. The secret of looking
right for any occasion while travelling
lies in wise choice of accessories. A
bright sweater, a tailored blouse, a
jewelled or frothy waist . . these three
(with proper gloves, bags and hats)
can make you well dressed for any day-
time occasion, while the dressed-up suit
can go on to dinner or a show. Add
gay scarves, extra gloves, beads and pins
. . and you'll be surprised how they
can change your basic clothes to suit
your mood of the moment.
JANUARY WEATHER DATA
Los San
Angeles Francisco
Highest 80 78
Lowest 28 28
Average 55.5 50.1
Average total rainfall 3.04 4.75
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
Uzfts in the
ualifornia manner
LUNCHEON SET: Four place mats and four napkins in
cotton, imprinted with Western motif. Fringes are
plastic-treated to prevent snarling. Choice of yellow or
beige with brown horse. Gift-boxed at $3.00, postpaid.
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a champ
with this trick spinning rope. Comes with complete:
directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's spurs in white and
gold metal. Fits over any boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid.
MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative touch
for your kitchen . . and useful, too. Four plastic meas-
uring spoons, that fit in a floral arrangement into this
bright ceramic flowerpot. Gadgets like this make
housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50, postpaid.
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 2V2% safes tax.}
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
• OX Ml IANCHO SANTA It • CAIIFOHIA
68
THE CALIFORNIAN
Where To Buy Max Kopp Dresses
The dresses by Max Kopp as advertised on page 12 and
as pictured on page 55 are available at the following
I tores:
ARIZONA: Morenci, Pine's.
Ft. Smith,
Store; Pine
ARKANSAS: Hope, Chas. A. Haynes Co.;
Watkins Store Co.; Jonesboro, Wall's Dept.
Bluff, Eisenkramer's.
CALIFORNIA: Alhambra, Faye's; Anaheim, Gaye Suz-
anne; Bakersfield, Weill's of Bakersfield; Berkeley, Hez-
letfs; Buena Park, Parke Apparel Shoppe; Chico, M.
Oser Co.; Fresno, B. Strauss; Gtendale, M. J. Boretz;
Hollywood, Ann of Hollywood; Huntington Park, Leona's;
Oakland, De Vorin's, Marlowe's, Tollie's; Los Angeles,
Charlston's, J. J. Haggorty & Co., The May Co., Rose-
mary Shop; Lynwood, Amber Style Shop; Merced, Selb's;
Modesto, J. Loeb; Palo Alto, Bryant's; Pasadena, Bess
Briggs, Pian's; Sacramento, Kneeland's; Salinas, The
Smart Shop; Son Carlos, Dixson's; San Diego, Muriel
Clark's Studio Styles; San Francisco, Joseph Magnin; San
Gabriel, Amber's; San Jose, Eunice Shaw; San
Marino, Cleo's; San Raphael, Modern Eve Shop; Santa
Ana, Frances Norton; Santa Cruz, Samuel Leask & Sons;
Santa Rosa, The Fashion; Stockton, Donovan's Smart
Shop, Eden Fashion; Studio City, Rae's; Vallejo, The
Wonder Wear; Visalia, Wanda's Style Shop.
COLORADO: Denver, The May Co.
FLORIDA: Coral Gables, Lula Mae Shop.
IDAHO: Pocatello, Modern Deb Shoppe; Preston, Foss
Clothing.
INDIANA: Indianapolis, Suburban Sportswear.
KANSAS: Liberal, Shoppe Elite; Wichita, Flo Brooks,
Hinkel's.
KENTUCKY: Gladys K's Dress Shop.
LOUISIANA: Baton Rouge, Dalton Co.,; Eunice, La
Vogue; New Orleans, D. H. Holmes Co.; Windield,
H & F Shoppe.
MINNESOTA: New Ulm, Jack Pink.
MISSOURI: Kansas City, Woolf Brothers.
NEBRASKA: Beatrice, Miriam Kees.
NEVADA: Boulder City, Desertwear.
NEW MEXICO: Rosewell, W. W. Merritt.
OKLAHOMA: Altus, Chicago Store; Bartlesville, Koppel's;
Enid, Youngblood Dress Shop; Guyman, Ethel's Shop;
Mangum, Smith Style Shop; Shattuck, Hollywood Dress
Shop; Stillwater, Laughlin's Campus Shop.
OREGON: Albany, McDevitt's; Ashland, Excel Dress
Shop; Grant's Pass, Excel Dress Shop; Portland, Meier
& Frank Co.; Solem, Fashionette, Grace's Ready-to-
Wear.
SOUTH DAKOTA: Mobridge, Style Shop.
TENNESSEE: Memphis, Linden Circle Dress Shop.
TEXAS: Abilene, Waddington's; Alice, Patten's; Ama-
rillo, KuykendaM's; Baytown; Paine Brothers; Borger, The
Charm; El Paso, Gilbert's; Ft. Worth, Manning Dry
Goods, W. C. Stripling Co.; Galveston, Benoit's; Har-
lingen, lone Crow; Hereford, The Vogue; Hillsboro,
Young's Style Shop; Houston, Boyer & Whisennand,
Isabel Gerhart, Martha's Ladies Shop; Lamesa, The
Vogue; McAllen, Ladies Supply; Merkel, Brogg Dry
Goods; Midland, Chas. A. Haynes Co.; Odessa, Nash
Tucker; Olney, Specialty Shop; Orange, Velma's; Pam-
pa, Gilberts; Perryton, Frances Virginia Shop; Port Ar-
thur, Velmas; Ranger, Joseph Dry Goods Co.; Wharton,
Sol's; Wink, Hollywood Shop; Vernon, Russell's Dept.
Store; Yoakum, Yoakum Fashion.
UTAH: Salt Lake City, Hudson Bay Fur Co., The Paris.
WASHINGTON: Aberdeen, Brower's; Bellingham,
Wahl's, Inc.; Everett, C. C. Chaffee Co.; Longview,
Caplan's; Tacoma, Oakes Apparel; Vancouver, Cap*
lan's; Walla Walla, The Vogue; Wenatchee, Fashion
Shop; Yakima, W. E. Draper Co.
PAMELA GAY ULTRA NUES
The Ultimate in Sun and Swim Wear!
HI-TIDE
LO-TIDE
Tied high for
swimming
Tied low for
sunning
Black Wool Jersey
$12.95
NU D'ETE
Black or White rayon jersey. Ad-
justable for maximum exposure
$9.95
EBB-TIDE
Black rayon jersey and lustre satin.
Reversible
$12.95
Send all measurements.
Send check with order;
No C.O.D. orders accepted.
All orders shipped postpaid.
PAMELA GAY
Box 23-C
Melrose 76, Massachusetts
/a* SPICES
fat LIDS
/a* CLEANSERS
these attractive Dor-File racks are
"Musts" for every home!
The Dor-File spice racks have dozens of uses —
in kitchen cupboards, linen cabinets, bathrooms,
workshops. Keeps small articles handy, saves
space, saves time — easily attached to any door
or wall. 12/2 in. long, 2/2 in. high, 1 y2 in.
deep. Only 79c each. Special gift package of
3 for $2,291
The Dor-File cleanser rack is a brand-new, much-
needed item for every home. Ideal for kitchen,
laundry, bathroom. Holds cleansers, washing
powders, soaps, steel wool. It has a dishcloth
bar — handy and for quick drying. IO72 'n- long,
4 in. high, 5 in. deep — ample room for every-
thing. Only $1.49.
The Dor-File lid rack puts your doors to work,
too — in your kitchen, laundry, broom closet,
linen closet. It easily holds your pot lids, pie
tins and other kitchen flatware, polishes, waxes,
soaps, bleaches, starch — within easy reach. Elim-
inates cabinet clutter. 11% in. long, 5 in high,
4 in. deep. A bargain in efficiency for $1 .49.
Order them individually
or a complete set for .
For delivery in California odd 2l/2% sales fax.
SEND CHECK OR MONEY ORDER TODAY TO
FRED L. SEYMOUR CO.
BOX 1176 • BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA
$3.77
January, 1949
69
Give your face
Erase telltale age lines,
wrinkles and crows-feet
this easy, sure scientific way
Kathryn Murray Home Facial treat-
ments strengthen facial muscles through
simple, 5 -minute facial exercises, pro-
duce amazing results. Have helped
40,000 women look years younger.
Send today for
free booklet
No obligation. No salesman will call. Act
now. Give your face a new and younger look.
206 South Michigan Ave., Suite 194, Chicago 4,
WEATHER GLASS
Early Clipper Ships navigating the seven
seas relied on this type of weather glass
to forecast storms. This true reproduction
in hand- blown glass, with antiqued meta!
bracket, will be both useful and decorative.
An attractive budget-wise gift, for only
$2.25 POSTPAID
A'tman Bldg\
Kansas City 6, Mo
DON'T BE HEARTLESS
IF NOTHING
PLEASES
HER
she'll be happy with
this
PAMELA
GAY
CREATION
ONLY ONE OUNCE
of Black Lace and
Red Satin for your
favorite SHE.
$3.95
Of course you know
her hip measure-
ments! Send check;
no C.O.D. orders ac-
cepted. We ship 1st
Class Mail prepaid.
PAMELA
GAY
Box 23-C
Melrose 76,
Massachusetts
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting,
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching,
Modeling. Day and Evening Classes.
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco,
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood & Oliver
Ave.
Plttsburgb.
Pa.
Atlantic 3855
Stores Offering
Saba Dresses
Listed By States
i he crisp cotton dresses by Saba of California
as shown on page 53 are available at the
following stores:
ALABAMA: Mobile, L. Hammel; Sylacanga,
Wallis Co.
ARIZONA: Clarksdale, Peggy's; Globe, Cecil's
Dress Shop; Kingman, Bessie Borden; Phoenix,
Jo Lee's Sportswear; Safford, Modern Dress
Shop; Wilcox, Style Shop; Winslow, Petite
Shop.
ARKANSAS: El Dorado, J. F. Sample Co.;
Magnolia, The Fashion Shop.
CALIFORNIA: Corona, American Potash &
Chemical Co.; Buena Park, Studio Dress Shop;
Chico, Betty's Dress Shop; China Lake, Jean
Stersic; Costa Mesa, Gaylas; Eureka, The White
House; Fresno, Rodder's Mademoiselle, Inc.;
Gustine, Virginia's Dress Shop; Huntington Park,
Bernard's; Inglewood, Robert Sklar; King City,
Virginia's Dress Shop; La Mesa, Lady Gay Shop;
Long Beach, Gorman's Dress Shop; Los Angeles,
Bullock's, Jekyll's, The Pinafore, Tabs of Holly-
wood, Trabing's; Oroville, Betty Jean Shop;
Pasadena, Bullock's; Pomona, Junior Jills; Reed-
ley, Lois Jean Shoppe; Sacramento, Rich's; San
Diego, Gilda Fashions; San Gabriel, Frederick's;
San Jose, The Brown House; Santa Ana, Janies
Shop for Girls; Santa Barbara, Mademoiselle,-
Santa Monica, Do Sel's; Santa Paula, Carlson
Hat & Gown Shop; Sonora, Sanford's; Stockton,
The Brown House; Taft, Ladies Toggery; Whittier,
Myer's Dept. Store; Yreka, Barklow's Dress Shop.
COLORADO: Longmont, Vogue Dress Shop.
CONNECTICUT: New Haven, The Rogers Shoppe.
FLORIDA: Clearwater, Modern Dress Shop; Holly-
wood, Town & Resort; Key West, Ideal Togs;
Miami, The Little Green Shop; Miami Beach,
Effie Louise, Joan's; Oca la. Guarantee Clothing
Co.; Sarasota, The Sport Shop; Vero Beach,
Gwenda Lee Junior Shop.
GEORGIA: Atlanta, Fashion Sportswear.
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Carson Pirie Scott, Fashion
Hall; Evanston, Maurice L. Rothschild & Co.
KANSAS: Anthony, Vera's Thrift Shop; Inde-
pendence, Litwin's; Parsons, Lifwin's; Wichita,
Hinkel's, Wayne's.
LOUISIANA: Abberville, Lady Lake Fashion;
Alexandria, Wellan's; Baton Rouge, Mabel's;
Covington, Norman Haik; Franklinton, The
Fashion Shop; Morgan City, Fannie Mae Gold-
man; New Orleans, Robbins Co.; Shreveport,
Centencery Dress Shop.
MARYLAND: Silver Springs, Charles Shop.
MASSACHUSETTS: Ambridge, David Shop; Boston,
Wm. Fllene's; Fitchburg, Baylin's Fur Shop;
Waltham, Barbara Stone Dress Shop.
MICHIGAN: Belleville, Francis Smith Shop; Ben-
ton Harbor, Helaine's; Detroit, Smart Style
Shop; Lake Orion, Beatrice Frocks; Lansing,
Ruth Donnelly; Munnising, Mildred's Shop; Sul-
ton's Bay, Inch's Gift & Frock Shop.
MISSISSIPPI: Brookhaven, Benoit's; Jackson, A.
D. & L. Oppenheim; Vicksburg, Rice & Co.
MISSOURI: Clayton, Gutman's; Columbia, McAl-
lister's; Kansas City, B. Alden Millinery, Cricket
West; St. Louis, Kay's Womens Wear, Sherman
Smart Shop.
MONTANA: Butte, Modern Miss; Kalispelt, An-
derson's Style Shop; Laurel, Simon's; Missoula,
Cummins Co.
NEBRASKA: Grand Island, S. N. Walbach
Sons, Inc.
NEVADA: Elko, Tots n' Teens.
NEW HAMPSHIRE: Manchester, Rogers Co., Inc.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Hinkel's; Hanger-
man, People's Merc. Co.; Hatch, Crout's; Las
Cruces, El Encanto Dress & Gift Shop.
NEW YORK: Buffalo, Adam, Meldrum & Anderson.
NORTH DAKOTA: Washington, Lieber's, Inc.
OHIO: Marietta, Bonham's; Portsmouth, Marting
Bros. Co.; Van Wert, The Kay Shop.
OKLAHOMA: Altus, Powder Puff Shop; Guyman,
Ethel Shop; Paul's Valley, Virgie's Dress Shop;
Ponca City, Marks Jr. Shop; Stillwater, Laughlin's
Campus Shop.
Where To Buy The Lady Alice Dress
I he lovely Lady Alice of California cotton
dresses as shown on the front cover and as
advertised on pages 4 and 5 are available at
the following stores:
ALABAMA: Dean-West, Jacksonville; Nachman
& Meertief, Montgomery.
ARIZONA: A & B Schuster Co., Holbrook;
Elaine's Dress Shop, Pinetop; Lawrence Dress
Shop, Prescott; Petite Dress Shop, Winslow.
CALIFORNIA: Chace's, Adin; Helen's, Alham-
bra; The Gibson Shop, Altura; Sadie's Dress
Shop, Atwater; La Cresta Village Frock Shop,
Bakersfield; She, Balboa; Dorel's and Hink's,
Berkeley; Irene's, Brentwood; Evelyn's, Burney;
Rachel's, Campbell; Betty Lane Shop, Chico;
Frock Shop, Chula Vista; Dealy's, Colfax; J. J.
O'Rourke, Colusa; The Town Shop, Corona;
Fink's Department Store, Dixon; Du Sold's, El
Centro; Escondido Mercantile Co., Escondido;
Toby's Charm Cottage, Fairfield; Esther's Fuller-
ton; Mirviss, Hanford; Economy Department
Store, Hayward; Mary Jane, Healdsburg; Robbins
& Levi, Hollywood; Polka Dot Dress Shop, In-
glewood; Ruby Ella Dress Shop, Kingsburg;
Van Dusen's Department Store, La Verne; Doro-
thy's, Livingston; East Side Dress Shop, Lodi;
Ann's Dress Shop, Madera; The Toggery, Man-
teca; Mar Vista Dress Shoppe, Mar Vista; Town
& Country Shop, McArthur; Tioga Dress Shop,
Merced; Town & Country, Modesto; The Little
Shop, Napa; Bianchi's, Oakdale; Kahn's, Oak-
land; M & M Department Store, Oroville;
Irene's, Pacific Grove; F. C. Nash & Co., Pasa-
dena; Fastvo.i Dress Shop, Paterson; Luci lie's,
Petaluma; Bario's, Pleasanton; Rose Fashion
Shop, Porterville; Vivian's, Redding; Lois Jean
Shoppe, Reedley; Albert's, Richmond; Casual
Corner and Weinstock-Lubin, Sacramento; A. L.
Brown & Sons, Salinas; Devonot's San Ber-
nardino; Parker's North Park Gown Shop and
Walker's, San Diego; Alex de May, Ltd., and
The Emporium, San Francisco; L. Hart &
Son, San Jose; Edith Guthridge, San Leandro,
Belle Quinn, Sanger; Irene's Styles, Santa
Cruz; Jacobsen's, Selma; Johnson & Newman,
Shafter; H. G. Hotz, Sonoma; The Sterling
Inc., Stockton; Anderson's Specialty Shop, Su
sanvllle; De Paoli, Sutter Creek; The New
Burns Dept. Store, Taft; Leora Blessinger, Tern
pie City; Cabana' b, Truckee; Turlock Mercan
file Co., Turlock; Esther Shop, Ukiah; Levee's
Vallejo; Edith's, Weed; Betty Matthew's Shop
Whittier; The Willows Shop, Willows; The Vogue,
Yuba City.
COLORADO: Parish's, Denver.
CONNECTICUT: Sage Allen, Hartford.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA: The Hecht Co., Wash-
ington, D. C.
FLORIDA: Kathleenah's Lady's Wear, Miami;
Donnan's, Inc., St. Petersburg; K's Teen Shop,
Winter Haven.
GEORGIA: Bradley's Shop, Athens; Williams
Dress Shop, Cornelia; Georgi's Fashion Shop,
OREGON: Eugene, Frager's; Salem, Johnson's.
PENNSYLVANIA: Lancaster, Watt & Shand;
Punxsutawney, George Fashion Shoppe; Sharon,
Elnor Kreiger; Turtle Creek, Jack's; Pittsburgh,
Joseph Home.
SOUTH CAROLINA: Columbia, House of Petites;
Greenville, Patterson's Shoppe; Orangeburg,
Edna's Style Shop; Spartenburg, Saul's Inc.
SOUTH DAKOTA: Aberdeen, The New York Store;
Watertown, The Paulis Co.
TENNESSEE: Chattanooga, Donna's; Columbia,
Vanity Shop; Johnson City, Dosser Bro.
TEXAS: Anson, The Fashion Shop; Big Lake, Ray
Dry Goods; Bryan, Beverly Bra ley; Burkeville,
Ruby's Dress Shop; Dallas, Mather's; Dennison,
J. W. Madden; El Paso, Glass Apparel; Ft.
Worth, The Fair, .Gilbert's; Kautze, Maria nna's;
Laredo, M. A. Cavazos; Monahan, Dun lap Co.;
Orlando, Dickson Ives Inc.; Perryton, E. K.
Walker; Sweetwater, Dunlap's.
WASHINGTON: Castle Rock, Verna's Dress Shop;
Clarkston, Mar Lee Apparel; Seattle, Girl's Shop.
WEST VIRGINIA: Morgantown, Kaufman's;
Moundsville, Hinerman's.
GUAM: Guam, The Coral.
HAWAII: Honolulu, Julie's, Kuhio Dress Shop,
Lai Fong & Co., Liberty House.
Kingsland; Patty Ann Shoppe, Thomaston;
L. B. Barnett, Tifton.
GUAM: The Corals, Guam, Guam.
IDAHO: Economy Cash, Aberdeen; Snider'*};
Shop, Buhl; The Mode, Burley; The Art
Shop, Lewisron; People's Store, Pocatello; i]
rets & Co., Rexburg; The Smart Shop, Rl
ILLINOIS: Carson, Pirie, Scott, Chicago.
INDIANA: Village Belle Shop, Greenfield.
IOWA: Gates Dry Goods Co., Ft. Dodge; i
Ton Shoppe, Jefferson; Clara Owen, Le \
Paulsen's, Manning.
KANSAS: Model Style Shop, Greens
Chandler's Dress Shop, Herington; Helen's
Shop, Hoisingfon; Heschmeyer & Geary, La
MARYLAND: Margo Dress Shop, Baltlma
Havre de Grace,- Style Shop, Hagerstown,
MICHIGAN: Audrey Mae Shop, Bay City;
tie T. Cruse, Laurium.
MISSISSIPPI: Rosenberg Bros., Greenville;
Cannon Shops, Inc., Jackson; Xylda's Sh<
Tunica.
MISSOURI: Sunny Day Store, Booneville;
port Cleaning Co., Rockport.
MONTANA: Hart Albin Co., Billings; H<
Style Shop, Dillon; Federated Stores,
Point.
NEVADA: The Emporium, Boulder City;
hart's, Elko; Bell & Whorton, Ely; Richard:
No. Las Vegas; Gertrude HIckey, Reno;
hart's, Winnemucca.
NEW JERSEY: R. H. Mulr Company, East On
Debbie Shop, Haddon Heights; Rose Hat
Merchantville; Modern Shop, Wildwood.
NEW YORK: Galax Ladies Apparel, Riverl
Long Island.
NORTH CAROLINA: Marie's, Burlington; I
tine's Shop, Siler City; Belk's Department '.
Statesville.
OHIO: The Higbee Company, Cleveland;
son's Specialty Shop, Crestline; Cecile'i I
Shop, Kent.
OKLAHOMA: The Toggery, Perry; Allen's,
woka.
OREGON: Weitzel's, Ashland; Fashion i
Lakeview; King's Vogue, McMinnville; C (
Milwaukie; Freda's Town & Country Shop, :
wego; Olds, Wortman & King, Portland; 1(1
Gay Shop, Rainier; St. Helens Style Shop !
Helens; Little French Shop, Salem; Johnijf
Tillamook.
PENNSYLVANIA: Betty Jenkins Shop, Ait1.*;
Bailey's Dress Shop, Darby; Watt & Shand, I
Lancaster; Murray's Dress Shop, PalmtVI
Reba Miller, Shamokin; Marty Shop, SoudHt
Sportoggery, West Chester.
SOUTH CAROLINA: Sara's Dress Shop, Lai
TENNESSEE: S. H. George Co., Knoxville.
TEXAS: The Glamour Shop, Breckenridge; *
ger Bros., Dallas; Muriel's Shoppe, Polt(«H
Joske's, San Antonio.
UTAH: Del Mart. Department Store, E,
Morel I Nelson, Huntington; Carpenter's, N\
Barnett & Lacsen, Mt. Pleasant; GorbjU
Nephi; Vagabond Shop, Ogden; Snow's '
Shop, St. George; Paris Company, Soil }
City; La Gra Shop, Tremonton.
VIRGINIA: Gurdine's, Danville; Mareta's, SiH
WASHINGTON: Bartilson's Dress
ton; Drew's Dry Goods, Castle
Shop, East Stanwood; Warne
Store, Mount Vernon; Margaret
Bon Marche, Spokane; Rhodes Bros., Ta(
Elizabeth Shop, Tappenish; Oleson's, V<
land; Miller's, Yakima.
WEST VIRGINIA: Cinderella Shoppe, Ktir
Beryl's Shoppe, Welch.
WISCONSIN: Mademoiselle, Marshfield;
Neillsville.
WYOMING: Suz-Anne Shop, Buffalo; I
wood Shop, Cheyenne; Mary Jane Shop,
mie; Ellen G. Walker Shop, Rock Springs-
70
THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949
_.
Wiat she wants . . . andMallimon makes it easy/
New crease-resistant
RUSTEENA !
Color-bright RUSTEENA
is a modem,
nubby-textured
rayon fabric
that cuts easily . . .
sews easily . . .
is easily the making
of that wonderful,
washable, warm-weather
wardrobe everyone
wants.
Ask for RUSTEENA
in fine ready-to-wear
and fabric by the yard.
National Mallinson
Fabrics Corporation,
1071 Avenue of the Americas,
New York 18 ■ Chicago
Seattle • Los Angeles.
San Francisco
THE
"ESTHER WILLIAMS
99
Its a SWIMMERS swimsuit
Esther Williams, glamorous swimming
champion and M.G.M. star, says:
"Finally— a perfect swimming
suit! It fits beautifully wet or dry
—has freedom in action and
beauty all the time. I'm proud to
have tested and helped to perfect
this new Cole suit designed espe-
cially for me. I think every girl
who swims ought to have one."
The fabric— rich-textured Lastex matelasse,
exclusively Cole, with the snap that gives
support. The Ballet Bodice— with lovely
curving uplift and a little-looking waist.
Straps— placed for smooth looks arid for
smoother stroke. The whole effect— slim
and cleanly beautiful! Ask for the "Esther
Williams" by Cole of California. Scarlet,
sea foam green, sand beige, navy, white
. . . 17.95.
No mail orders, please; but write, we'll tell you where.
Copyright 1949. Cole of California, Inc., Los Angeles 11
A MAGAZINE STYLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
CALIFOP
<^V^a^,
A 9
From California comes the Spring Collection of origina
Thompson's California Hand Prints . . . Created
with an entirely new feeling of California colors and
patterns . . . Styled to the latest trends.
Exclusively at one fine store in your city, see page 53.
southern California designs by ruth
o
D
O
CD
c
O
a
0
o
<D
5
O
CL
*,
V
v . N . * I \
• naturally it's a IV^
custom loomed for
ken Sutherland by
01. 7 THE CALIFORNIAN 1b published monthly by The California!.. Inc.. at 1020 S. Main St.. Los Angeles 15. Calif., printed In U. S. A. Yearly sub.erlptlon price *%%%"
o. 1 53.00. Entered as second class matter January 25. 1046. at the Post Office. Los Aneeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3. 1879. 19"
#«* . - of ^
eel«*ft \. of *
ic«
f
ro*1
***** <*** >
**f
Dfi Moines 6,
THE CAIIFORNIAN, February, I949
■ Outfit
m
I
Stroock s Chonga tweed . . . sou, suf>f>le stun with unbounding stamina, in a coat
tailored solely for our Ascot Snof> by Miss California. And three to one
you 11 love it. . . all three of its wonderful ways. Cjold, natural. ac(ua, green, toast.
Sizes 8 to 18. 75.00.
ASCOT SHOP, FOURTH FLOOR
(Jfu£M(
[THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
HOW DO YOU LOOK?
Which Figure Is Yours?
Do you know how to dress your particular
figure? Do you know how to play up your
good points, play down your figure faults?
Dressing by Design is a famous fashion de-
signer's notebook . . it's a coordinated col-
lection of 10 important fashion articles that
tell you simply, and graphically, how to dress
to your personality . . and your figure.
Do You Know How To Accessorize?
Dressing by Design tells you how to achieve
accessory balance with each outfit you wear.
How to appear, constantly, as a well-dressed
woman.
Do You Know How To Harmonize?
Do you know how to select fabrics and styles
that become you? Dressing bv Design dues
these things for you . . in an easy to- read,
easy-to-understand booklet . . with each sub-
ject graphically illustrated for your reference.
0 It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll
want to keep . . for only 50 cents. It's a di-
gested course in design for dressing that
could cost you ever so much more. And it's a
wonderful gift for others as well.
DRESSING BY DESIGN
Write For Your Copy Today
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid.
To: The Californian, 1020 S. Main St.,
Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of
DRESSING BY DESIGN ,0!
{Name)
(Address))
[City, Zone and State)
Enclosed is payment for □ copies.
COOK BOOK REVIEWS
By Helen Evans Brown
Andre Simons French Cook Book.
Little, Brown, & Co. $3.00.
Two well-known gourmets are re-
sponsible for the new edition of this
really fine cook book. Andre Simon,
founder of the Wine and Food Society
and number one man in the world of
oenonology, wrote the book, and Crosby
Gaige, an authority on all things gas-
tronomical, has revised it for use in the
American kitchen. The first edition of
the book, excellent as it was, was a bit
baffling to the average American cook.
Even if her knowledge of French had
been sufficient to translate the menus
which were written in that language,
some of the continental ingredients
that were called for in the recipes were
completely beyond the inventories of
her corner grocery store. Mr. Gaige has
fixed all that. While he has retained
the superb recipes, the masterly menus,
the delightful water colors by Nancy
Dyer, he has simplified the recipes,
translated, and in some cases shortened,
the menus, and has substituted American
ingredients for those used by M. Simon.
And he has done all this without losing
one iota of the book's original charm.
Mr. Gaige has been aided by Frank
Schoonmaker, who contributes a knowl-
edgeable chapter on American wines,
and he and M. Simon have together
selected the wines for the meals — M.
Simon the foreign ones, Mr. Schoon-
maker the American alternates.
The book is not a complete cook
book — rather it's a book of exquisite
menus with the accompanying recipes:
menus simple enough for anyone with
cooking sense to follow. If M. Simon's
original book was valuable, as indeed it
was, this revised edition is a priceless
treasure.
Art of Italian Cookery, Maria Lo Pinto.
Doubleday & Co., Inc. $2.75.
While the cook book market has been
flooded, in recent years, with books on
French, Russian, Chinese, Mexican,
American Regional, and even Scandi-
navian cookery, there has been little or
nothing on that of Italy. Now it is
here, and welcomed by all those who
love Italian food. And who doesn't?
Mrs. Lo Pinto has covered the subject
well, though naturally not completely.
The section on the ingredients used in
Italian cookery is a valuable one, and,
armed with it, it ought to be easy for
anyone to do her marketing in the Ital-
ian quarter. The diagrams of the
pastas are invaluable, the menus au-
thentic, the chapters on feasts and cus-
toms not too long, but long enough to
add interest to the book.
IT'S NEW
IT'S BIGGER
IT'S ONE DOLLAR
Second Edition of
California Cooks
By Helen Evans Brown
A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex-
clusively in
The CALIFORNIAN
""-'•..
ilorui
<♦»
<»*t»
mtit
"~—!Z_' ' — ■ ■-».
»>,,
SEND FOR YOUR COPIES TODAY
$1.00
POSTPAID
The first edition sold out completely. This
one is greatly enlarged. Has a new cover
— in color. Makes a smart gift!
ONE FOR YOURSELF!
ONE FOR THE BRIDE!
ONE FOR YOUR FAVORITE
GOURMET!
Recipes. Menus. Articles on cookery. But NOT
a cook book. Rather a book on California
cuisine.
A distinguished cuisine influenced by the
Missions, by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by
California vineyards and citrus groves, by
the desert, by the Spanish fiesta days, by
patio living and barbecues, by picnicking in
California, by the seashore and by the lav-
ish days of old San Francisco.
Kumquat Marmalade . . Napa Kidney Saute
. . Spaghetti Ventura . . Patio Salad . .
Barracuda San Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . .
California Almond Sauce . . Fresno Fritters
. . Ojai Orange Sauce for Duckl
It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READ-
ING—GOOD COOKINGI
CALIFORNIAN
To: THE CALIFORNIAN
1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Colif.
Please moll my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS
lo:
(Name)
(Address)
(City, State and Zone)
Enclosed is payment for Q copies at $1 each.
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
~>^££CC/,
i
Color-from the days when
a swashbuckling hero donned a
brilliant velvet doublet! Ted
Saval dips into the 16th century
dye- pot and brings forth this
gem-studded suede shoe in thoroughly
Californian glowing colors.
Flat wedge $12.95, medium
high wedge $14.95. The exactly
matching suede bag by
Theodor of California $12.95.
1510 SO. BROADWAY • LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
The Colors:
PALOMINO
PURPLE
GREEN
RED
NAVY
MUSTARD
FUCHSIA
DUSTY PINK
AQUA
NAVY
BLACK
BROWN
At topflight
stores. Write us.
We'll tell you.
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
Ut'fts in the
\jalifornia manner
IUNCHEON SET: Four place mats and four nap-
kins in cotton, imprinted with Western motif.
Fringes are plastic-treated to prevent snarling.
Choice of yellow or beige with brown horse.
Gift-boxed at $3.00, postpaid.
SMOKING SET: This exotic Chinese slipper is
both a cigarette container and an ash tray. In
brilliant turquoise ceramic, with gold ornamenta-
tion. Lovely home accessory, novel and useful.
$5.00, postpaid.
MINIATURE CHAFING DISH: Something to grace
the dinner table of any home-proud hostess.
An adorable miniature chafing dish of solid
copper and brass. Complete in every detail, in-
cluding a heating unit that burns alcohol. Makes
o stunning centerpiece. $5.95, postpaid.
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 21/2% sales tax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
TBS CORRAL SHOP
tANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
~^M\%
nUNBREAKABLE FEVER THERMOME-
TER ... an absolute necessity for your
medicine cabinet is this new, different ther-
mometer. It's absolutely accurate, and can't
break. Imported from Switzerland, made like
a Swiss watch, it's a fine precision instrument,
guaranteed for two years. Easy to read, for
temperature registers on a watch-like dial. No
shaking up and down is necessary, and it's
easily sterilized. A bakelite carrying case is
included. Just $18.75 postpaid, or sent C. 0. D.
plus postage. Order it from Central Merchan-
dising Company, Dept. A-4, Victoria, Kansas.
THE OX-BOW LAMP ... for you and
your home, if you like country fields in the
setting sun . . . the good fresh smell of new-
mown hay. A product of "The Old Red Mill,"
the Ox-Bow is 16" high, of antiqued native
pine and copper ... its style and craftsman-
ship reminiscent of Colonial Days. Shades,
from the "Hills of New Hampshire Studio,''
are hand-painted in soft cream, brown and
green . . . the bow, adjustable to four heights.
$18.50, express collect. Send check or money
order to Charmers, Francestown, New Hamp-
shire.
TIDY TOES ... the California Tabbies
with two-button back closing. These adorable
foot-mittens are so comfy you'll forget you
have them on . . until you hear the compli-
ments they rate! For lounging, dorm, patio
and pool, Tabbies are styled for wearability.
Softest satin in black, white or pink; and
quilted chintz in red, yellow, green or blue.
Sizes S-M-L. Send check or money order for
S3.95 (plus 10c tax in California, 12c in Los
Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South
Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
CALIFORNIA COOKS ... the second en-
larged edition of our recipe book "California
Cooks," by Helen Evans Brown, is available
now. You and your friends will be delighted
with the selections — over 100 delicious and
easy recipes, from abalone to zucchini; from
oriental to occidental; from wine to herbs to
spices. And all planned with that special Cali-
fornia-flair-for-flavor and originality. For good-
ness sakes, order yours now — and your friends,
too. Just one dollar each, postpaid. Address
California Cooks, c/o The Californian, 1020 S.
Main, Lss Angeles 15, Calif.
BUTTERFLY CLOCKS . . . Willys of
Hollywood creates hand-appliqued butterflies
of velveteen chenille for third-dimensional
beauty on this new hosiery. 15-denier DuPont
nylon, seamed or seamfree; sandalfoot, semi-
sandal or conventional. In the rich '49ers
colors: pay dirt; gold dust; mica brown; rose
quartz; red earth; shovel tan. Sizes 8 to 11.
For street-wear and dress occasions . . . 13.50
the pair, at May Company Wilshire, Los An-
geles: Sage & Allen, Hartford; Carson Pirie
Scott, Chicago. Or write Willys of Hollywood,
1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
THE CAUFORNIAN, February, 1949
LADY IRENE'S NYLON NICETIES . .
quisite, sheer hosiery for cocktail and evening
wear, featuring the high-molded heel. 54-gauge,
15-denier, made of DuPont nylon. Sizes 8V2 to
11, in your choice of the new spring shades:
illusion, toast, dawn, cloud, honey, or autumn
dusk. And unbelievably low priced at $1.69 a
pair, or three for 84.75. Money back guarantee.
C. 0. D. orders accepted. Let Lady Irene do
your personal shopping for California-made
lingerie, sportswear and so forth. Irene's Dress
Shop, 728 Montana Avenue, Santa Monica,
Calif.
QUIK SUDS DISHWASHER . . . per
manent holiday from dishpan hands! Washes
dishes quicker, doesn't even wet your hands.
Attaches to all faucets. Just put soap scraps
or detergent furnished into this magic washer,
press button for foaming hot suds, release
button for clear rinsing water. Interchangeable
brushes — nylon for dishes and glasses; bronze
for pots and pans (and doggie's bath, too).
With plastic wall bracket and liberal soap
supply. Red or black. §6.49 postpaid. H. G.
Kolb & Co., Dept. C, 6674 Yucca, Los Angeles
28, Calif. Money back guarantee.
CALIFORNIA POTTERY . . . you'll love
to set your table with this delightful pottery,
in colors adapted from the California sun —
powder blue, turquoise, desert sand or butter-
cup yellow. It'll bring charm and gaiety to your
breakfast nook and dining room. Complete
service for four — 4 large plates, 4 cups and
4 saucers, 4 butter or salad plates, and 4 fruit
dishes . . . and the price is miraculously low
— 20 piece set for $8.95. Send color choice
with check or money order to Fred L. Seymour
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
THREAD-A MATIC . . . this new automatic
threader, of durable plastic with precision
mechanism, makes it possible to thread needles
with one finger! Easy for children and adults,
it threads needles from 3 to 9, thread from 36
to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerized.
To simplify your sewing, just $2.95 postage
prepaid. Add 21/£% sales tax in California,
3% in Los Angeles. Send your orders to
Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly
Hills, Calif.
SU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . 100% all
power net nylon, even sewed with nylon thread,
finished with nylon tape, and nylon elastic
garters. Dries in 4 short hours, fits so well that
squirming and yanking are things of the past
... no revealing seam-lines under slickest
dresses. You'll have smoother, prettier hip
I lines with this Su-Z Girdle. Step-in (without
I legs) or pantie (shown). Black, nude, or
■ white, postpaid just $10.95. Send measure-
ments of your waist, tummy, thigh, over-all
weight, and height to Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon
Ave., Los Angeles 43, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
[IV MTnlM-UKNT
FinruMBKfi T" " M Kl*° 0BOR01 vt
J. a B ATKINKDN LTD.
OLOGNES with the traditional
English bouquet, created exquisitely
by Atkinsons of Bond Street,
can now be bought at the finer shops.
GOLD MEDAL
EAU DB COLOGNE
ENGLISH
LAVENDER
ATKINSONS
IMPORTED II
PAUL K. RANDALL
2Vf MADISON AVE.. NEW YORK 17, N. V.
In The March Issue
fMIIORNIAN
presents
• Sun Country Fashions
• California Living
• Wonderful Recipes
Use the coupon attached to this copy!
Make someone happy with a
gift subscription to
/&
(MORTMAIN
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting,
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching.
Modeling. Day and EveWHg CLae&eo
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &.
Wood & Oliver
Kearny St.
Ave.
San Francisco.
Pittsburgh.
Calif.
Pa.
Do. 28059
Atlantic 3653
...in, mfowuL
vaH
For the nearest stores, write ADELE — OF CALIFORNIA, 2615 So. Hill Street, Los Angeles, Calif.
Just one of a group of new suits . . . for
fashion-wise girls . . . with a career budget
. . . sizes 9 to 15 ... at 17.95.
For Name of Store Nearest You, Write
Cleveland 14, Ohio New York 18, N. Y.
FLOWER ARRANGING IS FUN
There is beauty everywhere, and your own life
is made richer by an awareness of it in the color,
texture and design of the flower arrangements that
grace your home. Here is a form of self-expression
that affords you an opportunity to express your-
self as does the writer, the painter, or the poet.
With helpful suggestions to guide you, you'll
find yourself creating original arrangements for
special holiday occasions that will prove conver-
sation-starters . . . and you'll enjoy the satisfac-
tion of being able to have effective flower '"pic-
tures" in your home.
Let's start with required equipment. If you are
to derive greatest pleasure from flowers, you'll
find a varied assortment of containers of primary
need to translate your beautiful ideas into beau-
tiful flower arrangements.
A collection of inexpensive containers in vari-
ous colors, sizes and shapes (see picture) will
eliminate the annoyance of "never having the right
thing."
When you are going to use roses, iris, columbine
or any varieties of lilies, which are all refined
types of flowers, a glass container should be avail-
able. The ordinary garden flowers such as mari-
golds, calendulas, snapdragons or stock seem bet-
ter suited to colored pottery. And when you want
a colorful, old fashioned bouquet, a Victorian vase
with the handles, completes the picture. At least
This is the first in a seriet
of explanatory flower ar
rangement stories 6)
Laura E. McVay . . .
series to help you find in
spiration in the familial
flowers in your own gar
den, in florist's rarest
blooms, and most exciting
of all . . . in the excite-
ment of finding new deco-
rative materials, drift-
wood or weeds or what-
ever your own imagina-
tion suggests.
one low flat bowl is a "must" for so many kinds
of arrangements.
When selecting a container, avoid the one with
ornamentation. This is confusing and detracts from
your flowers. Brass and copper are lovely for
yellow or bronze flowers and are particularly suited
to an early American home. If you must be satis-
fied with only a few containers, be sure to have a
chartreuse one, for this color seems to complement
most any flower.
Add to your containers an assortment of frogs,
(picture) light wire, plasticine and a sturdy pair
of pruning shears. There are several types of
frogs but the indispensable one is the pin or spike
style. If possible, have several sizes for the dif-
ferent stems. Type #2 shown in the illustration
is often placed on top of #1 and is convenient to
have in reserve. Light wire or "Twist-ems" wil
often hold a willful stem in its proper place.
W hen a number of small stemmed flowers are used.
wire them together and place them together in the
frog as one stem. Of all the "props," plasticin
will become your most useful.
Now that you have flowers, container and frog
selected, find a comfortable chair! A relaxed atti-
tude and frame of mind go a long way toward
a successful arrangement. Visualize the picture
you want to create and you will find the flowers
slip into place much more easily.
12
,
ft
2
-
o
0
0 A' 7" // E C OVER :
Playmates in corduroy,
bright flash of the new
season, by Junior Miss
of California. Jacket,
vestee and shorts are a
wonderful team . . . or
worn as "separates."
Sizes 9-15. jacket about
$15. vestee about $5,
shorts about $5 at The
Broadway, Los Angeles;
Buff urns'. Long Beach;
Franklin - Simon, N eiv
York.
Tom Binford photo.
-
e
I
I
M
-
Da
PS
o
: EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
IASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
i FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR .Virginia Scallon
MANAGING EDITOR Alice Carey
|MEN'S FASHION EDITOR..... Malcolm Steinlauf
i FASHIONS .'...Jacquelin Lary
Edie Jones
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Helen Ignatius
Hazel Allen Pulling
> ART ..Morris Ovsey
John Grandjean
Ann Harris
Jane Christiansen
ISTAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
California fashions
Hitch Your Wardrobe To A Star 15
Charlie McCarthy Whistles At Shorts 16
Demurely Flirtatious 18
Henry Fonda's Rainy Day Advice 20
Gregory Peck Likes Knits 22
Jack Benny Eyes A "Small Figure" 24
Irene Designs Clothes With An Air 32
California Suits 38
Classic Or Free-Flowing Design 40
Romantic Clothes Appeal To James Stewart 45
Accessories Are Final Touches 46
Childhood Fancies 49
Lithe Lines 50
California features
Jimmy Swinnerton's Debt To The Desert 26
Dig Up The Past 28
Styled By Irene 30
"The Craziest House In America" 34
Irene Dunne. California Millinery Queen 42
In California It's 48
California living
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 36
What To Wear 52
THE CALIFORN1AN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager,
Empire State Bldg., Room 101+, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre +-02+7; San Francisco Office,
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1+72; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson &
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two vears; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con-
tinental LTnited States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as
second class matter Januarv 25, 19+6, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under
act of March, 1879. Copvright 19+9 The Californian, Inc. Printed in C.S.A. Repro-
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
war t* -t rt1-;
«£$* V;V- '''•*;&
Hitch Your Wardrobe To A Star
Who are they? Do you
recognize the famous pic-
ture stars silhouetted on
the opposite page? We
identify them for you
on page 54, but right
now let us introduce
them as our Hollywood
fashion panel. Here are
their ideas on clothes
that make a woman at-
tractive to men . . . time-
ly now in this month of
Valentines and sentiment
No need to be an astrologer to know that the brightest stars of Hollywood have great in-
fluence on the fashion taste of the world. What "they" wear in their screen roles or in their
personal lives, inspires the world to new fashion daring.
Indirect, but even more far-reaching is the influence they wield through the California
fashion designers who sometimes create clothes especially for the screen, and always for
glamour-conscious women who identify the California label with originality and freshness.
Now you've seen thousands of pictures of what these famous women players wear, just
as you've seen hundreds of motion pictures where the feminine stars are beautifully dressed
... in the California fashion.
But we have a different idea. We want you to know what the masculine stars think
about fashions. Not that we believe women should buy clothes just because they appeal to
their favorite he-men in pictures . . . but we do feel these men are competent judges. Sur-
rounded by lovely clothes (on lovely women), they know a thing or two about effective
dressing.
So here they are, the men we chose for our movie panel of fashion . . . top flight stars
of stage, screen and radio. Nevertheless, they have the ordinary mortal man's eye for a
well-dressed woman, and definite opinions on the qualities that combine for beauty.
On subsequent pages we quote them specifically, but in general we can assure you that
the most sophisticated star of the screen, the most outdoors-y type . . . they all prefer
purposeful clothes, fashions suited to the individual and the occasion.
We think they're right. We've always stood by the premise that becomingness should
be your ultimate aim in planning your wardrobe. And we feel . . . always have . . . that
one kind of clothes best expresses your personality. The California kind!
Marty Cobin's afternoon dress, opposite page, in Robaix print, bias
ruffles on bolero and skirt; sizes 10-16, about $39. Weyman hat.
15
Charlie McCarthy interrupts Edgar Bergen to say
"What I like hest in clothing . .
That's why shorts are so wonderful . . . more of women.
BERYL AND RENE
l
Pared to a beautiful minimum, above, left, brief shorts
with knitted blouse, by Hollywood Premiere. Sizes 1048,
about $19 at Carson's. Chicago; Maison Blanche, New Orleans. Dan Gertsman's flannel coat, right, about S20 at J. W.
Robinson. Los Angeles. Joy Kingston's Celanese shorts, vest, knit coat, about $42, Neiman-Marcus. Dallas; Goldwater. Phoenix.
•(— Be a magnificent hobo, left, in Blair's sturdy pants, gypsy blouse in Nashua print, about $20 at Bullock's.
Palm Springs; Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills; Lindner-Coy, Cleveland. Right. Fleischman's denim pedal
pushers and jacket, sizes 9-15. about $13.
17
BERYL AND RENE
Charlie McCarthy has an eye for cottons with sunshine touches: this page, left, striped Coolcord with pique
collar and cuffs: Junior Miss of California. Sizes 9-15. about $15 at Peck & Peck, New York; Bullock's.
Pasadena. Right, the new lines in Fluegelman gingham, by Dale Hunter. Sizes 10-20. it's about SI 8.
Demurely flirtatious, left, pique with gingham apron: Lanz of California. Sizes 9-17, about S38 at all Lanz stores. Right, striped
Aambray cuts a pretty figure in a Madalyn Miller original, sizes 9 17. 10-18. about S18 . . . perfect dresses to give that enchanted air.
19
"Men like the kind of outdoor clothes
that hold their own with the
elements," says Henry Fonda, star of the
Broadway hit, "Mr. Roberts."
Be a pretty picture on a rainy day. Checked to shine
in the rain . . . Viola Dimmitt's water repellent fabric coat, opposite,
full, flared and hooded, sizes 8-18. about $40 at
Bullock's. Los Angeles; L. S. Strauss. Indianapolis.
Right. Raamell's pert little rainy day coat in Cohama elkskin.
with glistening gold buttons, sizes 9-18, about $40.
21
'.
"Knitted clothes look
like a million to me . . . never
appear to go out of fashion," says
Gregory Peck, soon to
be seen in M.G.M.'s "The Great Sinner."
)ne touch of genius . . . hand knits with a regal air
Opposite page left, white flannel skirt, cardigan
dged with felt, gold braid; Lenni of California.
Knit sweater, flannel skirt, dotted with gold
stars; Suse, center. Gold and gray banded
sweater, knit skirt; Naun Liljencrantz, right.
This page, knitted skirt, blouse, jacket; Lenmar
FRED MATTHEWS
"I like a pretty little price tag
for a small figure," says Jack Benny.
r
jl±2
Good fashion involves good taste,
selection . . . and we recommend these
chosen for dollar and eye appeal.
Outlined at right, striped and plain
Bates chambray: Lawson of California.
Top row, left to right, to match or
not. F. B. Horgan's pedal pushers,
bra, pocketed coat. Faded blue denim
separates, even hat . . cording details:
Koret of California. Fly-away sleeves
on blouse; four-gore skirt in Sandeze:
Roberts Mfg. Co. Murray Goldstein's
two-piecer in Oscar Hyman rayon-
cotton cord. Second row, left to
right. Ameritex woven chambray:
Casual Time. Robert Gould's dress,
built-in bra ties in back: Ameritex
cotton. Andrea Gay print bolero dress.
Snyder knits, two-tone dress and
jacket. Lower row, left to right.
Max Kopp's Empire dress in faille
or sheer. Stripes accent waistline of
Eleanor Green crepe dress.
Marty Cobin drapes Mallinson crepe,
appliques flower motif for off-
shoulder or softly full neckline.
Jourdelle's formal in Celanese taffeta,
capelet and bustle back interest.
...>
, v':-
./
<&r-t
14 '9
■*&9t
//
/2
25
a famous cartoonist's
painting, winning"
new critic acclaim, is
a hobby 56 years old
JIMMY SWINNERTON'S DEBT TO THE DESERT
by alice carey
TO MANY the desert means wasteland and death. Jimmy
Swinnerton found life and beauty there . . he won a new
fame. Always anxious to honor a favorite citizen. Holly-
wood has paid another tribute to James Swinnerton for his
ability to transform nature to oils. At a recent showing
in Hartwell Galleries. Beverly Hills, critics were unani-
mous in acclaim for his thirteen paintings, each demon-
strating vividly the awesome beauty of the great South-
west.
Doubling back and forth between canvas and cartoon.
Swinnerton is well known as the creator of "Little Jimmy,"
beloved character who appeared in the first comic supple-
ment in the United States. And although one of the few-
successful desert artists in America. Swinnerton claims that
his painting is "a fifty-six year old hobby." This statement
is destined to bring frowns to the foreheads of our nation's
art curators, many of whom have shown his work, but fac-
tually the comic strip remains Swinnerton's livelihood, as
it has since 1892.
A native Californian, Swinnerton spent his boyhood on
his grandparents' fruit and cattle farm at San Jose. Grand-
father, a hearty forty-niner retired from mining, continued
his own lusty theories on western manhood and encouraged
Jimmy accordingly. At an age when today's Junior is learn-
ing to use a bicycle, the seven-year-old Swinnerton was
on the range learning to shoot. At fourteen, having con-
cluded that he'd reached man's estate, Jimmy left home
to seek his fortune in the time-honored fashion.
A year of odd jobs brought Swinnerton to San Fran-
cisco and another year at art school was "devoted most-
ly," he confesses, "to caricatures of the professor." He
was rewarded for this dubious pastime at 16 when he be-
came a sports and political cartoonist on the San Fran-
cisco Examiner. Permitted to apportion his time among
sports, senators, and a novel innovation, the comic car-
toon, he created "Little California Bear." which appeared
in 1892 as the first comic strip feature.
Eventually comic strips clowned their way into America's
juvenile hearts and Swinnerton traveled to Chicago, New
York and Boston, assisting in the organization of the first
comic supplement in which "Little Jimmy" made his debut.
Shortly after the turn of the century, ill health forced
26
Swinnerton to return to the West and here, recuperating
at an Arizona desert retreat, his line-loving eye met the
challenge of grim beauty. In monumental splendor great
rocks rose from the arid wastes, and the searing loveli-
ness of a desert sunset bathed thorny bushes and twisted
trees with scarlet radiance. Here was born Swinnerton's
never-ending reverence for the desert.
Although he continued with his comic strip and added
"Canyon Kids," a color magazine feature, to his successes,
Swinnerton turned to the desert for inspiration in his paint-
ing. Practically alone in his admiration for a sweep of
sand and stone, he persisted in his landscapes until he won
recognition, not only for his artistic accomplishment, but
for the desert itself.
To achieve the amazing reality of his scenes, Swinnerton
spent forty years studying the desert, the canyons, the
mountains. He traveled with John Weatherill, discoverer
of Rainbow Bridge, into the Mesa Verde, Kitsil and Bata-
takin ruins. He back-tracked through the Indian cliff-
dwellers' culture and developed a healthy respect for the
workmanship of the Hopi tribe, their descendants. Even-
tually he had collected enough examples of early art to
lend some of his treasures to the Museum of Natural His-
tory and Stanford University. An authority at last on the
trackless territory of Arizona's desert lands, he was asked
by Zane Grey and Jesse Lasky to guide them to a choice
location to film "The Vanishing American."
His eyes appreciating the glory of the desert, and his
mind accepting its magnitude, Swinnerton soon found that
he had also lost his heart to the Southwest. Out of the
canyon silences and screaming sand storms came a convic-
tion of the absolute perfection of nature and a Power.
This conviction tints his brush as truly as the oils he mixes
. . it is evident in the dignity of his work and his faith
in the color combinations of nature.
Critics and laymen alike are affected by the realistic
quality of his landscapes which seem to
plunge the onlooker far beyond the scene
represented. One gallery visitor moved
nervously away from "the edge" of the
"Grand Canyon," because of the impres-
sion of height. Even critics lose the cold
phrases of clinical observation. Kay
English of the Los Angeles Examiner said,
"Breathtakingly beautiful . . each painting
projects a joyous sensation." Alma May
Cook of the Los Angeles Herald an-
nounced, "His exhibition runs the gamut
from the sheer peaceful beauty of the
desert to the drama of Monument Valley."
A master of color, Swinnerton predicts
"education for the eye," which he believes
is sorely needed. Emphasizing the fact
that children are surrounded by pianos, violins, record-
ings and music lessons to train the ear, he bemoans the ig-
norance of most humans regarding color.
Art students who appeal to him for aid in their en-
deavors are sent hustling to California's forests, streams,
mountains and seashore to "learn how nature blends
color." Only nature is faultless in combinations and con-
struction, according to Swinnerton, who points out with
annoyance that man designed the sharp corner.
Swinnerton brings the feel of the desert to his Holly-
wood studio and workshop . . the walls are decorated
with Indian relics, chairs are covered with skins and rugs,
and the artist himself, now in his seventies, wears the
kerchief, checkered shirt and cowboy boots of the outdoor
man. Here he keeps his canvas and drawing board, work-
ing with the facts of nature and the fiction of "Little
Jimmy." As he moves from one medium to another his
boot heels ring on the uncarpeted floor, giving lie to the
prediction that he went back to the West to "die with his
boots on" . . forty years ago.
ittle California Bear
'Grand Canyon" is a realistic scene to many
Popular "Smoke Tree in Shavers Wei! Canyon"
The feathery "Mesquite Trees by Salton Sea"
DIG UP THE PAST
Willy Stahl is a Hollywood paradox . . famous musician, artist and archeolo^ist
BY ALICE STIFFLER
In Los Angeles, where a dress designer's latest crea-
tions are incentive for elaborate cocktail showings;
where a remodeled supermarket sends engraved in-
vitations to customers, and the opening of a drive-in is
heralded by kleig lights and movie stars' personal ap-
pearances, it's refreshing to find at least one man who
takes the long view toward civilization.
Willy Stahl discovered Hollywood for himself in
1934, having come from New York with a satisfying
list of musical accomplishments, went on to augment
his renown as an artist, and now has literally dug his
own niche in the international hall of fame by the dis-
covery of a lost "city" of California's Dawn Man.
Named for him. the "Stahl site" will go down in the
archives of archeology, thus permanently resolving his
private conflict with oblivion.
No happy accident this, for Stahl has been a life-
long student of archeology, and during the last decade
has become a seasoned explorer, working as an associate
with the Southwest Museum of Los Angeles.
It was in this capacity that Stahl was engaged at the
time of his great discovery last November. So important
historically are the mineralized human bones, animal
bones, spear heads, cutting points and grinding stones
which he uncovered two miles north of Little Lake in
Inyo County, that the Southwest Museum immediately
organized a research expedition. Headed by Curator
Mark R. Harrington of the Museum, which is entirely
supported by private subscription, the expedition has
been laboring for months to uncover "Pinto culture"
relics that have lain undisturbed in a positive, original
location for at least 3.000 years . . . and they may date
back even to the wet Glacial Age, more than 15.000
years ago.
But before we dig into this paleontological miracle,
and it is fascinating to speculate upon the earliest resi-
dents of California. let's talk about the man who brought
it about.
Willy Stahl is first of all a professional musician,
trained at Imperial Conservatory of Music in Vienna,
where he studied violin, piano and composition from
1910 to 1913. After graduation he returned to his native
New York City to play the violin with the Russian Sym-
phony under Modest Altschuler. the famous conductor.
He also played with the New York Symphony and the
St. Paul Symphony orchestras.
Commercial theatre work claimed him for a time.
and he was director of music at the Rialto Theatre for
five years. But he never lost touch with serious music,
and turned much of his attention to composing. He
ascended the pinnacle of musical accomplishment in
America when his original tone poem, "Dead Forest,"
was introduced with the warm praise of the critics in
Carnegie Hall by the National Symphony Orchestra in
April, 1934. Other orchestral works published in his
New period include "Niagara Falls," "Continental Di-
vide," "Symphony No. 1." Later works include "Sym-
phonic Trio," a triple concerto; and several chamber
music compositions. At present Stahl is completing
the orchestration of "Suite For a Large Orchestra,"
which is nearly ready for publication. Indicative of
his passionate love for the native scene, the first move-
ment is entitled "Wide Open Land," the second, "Pro-
gressive Industry," third, "Vigor in the Field," and
fourth, "Strength in Peace Time."
He came to Los Angeles in 1934 to write music for
the movie studios and radio, working first at Paramount,
where he wrote theme music for a series of educational
agricultural short subjects to be used by the State De-
partment in South America. He scored "The Navy Way," .
"Dark Mountain," "Timber Queen," and wrote the orig-
inal music for John Nesbitt's "Passing Parade" on radio.
Almost anybody would figure this was quite a full
career . . not Willy Stahl. This man radiates creative
energy because he is essentially a humanist, interested
in life and people, color and music and the great out-
doors. It was his love of the outdoors, and humanity,
that impelled him to archeology. And the beauty that he
finds in nature led, quite naturally, to his interest in art.
So, about ten years ago, just for fun, Willy Stahl start-
ed to paint. He did a few watercolors for a lark, and
suddenly found that his interest was intense. He decided
to teach himself; studied the works of his contemporaries,
the old masters, the realists, the cubists, the Orientals.
He experimented with different techniques, different
media. He began to use oils. When he had accumulated
about 100 paintings, he asked a friend of his, an art
connoisseur, if he thought they were any good. Stahl
says, "I didn't know whether they were good or not."
He suggested to his friend, the critic, "Maybe I could
have an art exhibition as a musician."
So Stahl had his first exhibit and received solid en-
couragement from the critics. Since then he has had
many one-man shows and been included in almost every
28
Willy Stahl deserted New York following his debut in Carnegie Hall
exhibit of contemporary consequence.
Picked at random from critical clippings is this by
Herman Reuter of the Hollywood Citizen News:
"In his latest exhibition of oils and water colors, at the
Blenthal Gallery . . Willy Stahl, composer-violinist, re-
veals once more his airy and delightful spontaneity as a
colorist. He deals to an extent with fantasy . . but fan-
tasy as it concerns painting, the putting together of pig-
ments, a knack as rare as curls on a pig. His work
shows that he feels deeply whatever he does. He differs
from many of his confreres, however, in that, as a rule.
he doesn't let emotion run away with him, but insists
on coincidental intelligibility. Few painters have his
sensitiveness for textural qualities or his imaginative
bent." This was in July, 1939.
His fame as an artist has constantly increased, and
his paintings are now valued additions to the permanent
collections of the John Decker Gallery. Fannie Brice.
Mrs. Armand Deutsch. Vincent Price, Greta Garbo,
Harry Crocker and others. He has exhibited at the
Triple A Gallery (Association of American Artists I. at
the Los Angeles Art Association and the John Decker
Galleries.
Well, you may ask. granted that it's not too impos-
sible for a violinist-composer to turn his talents to paint-
ing, still. "How can the guy be an archeologist. too?"
This question only amuses Willy Stahl. To him it's
I the most natural thing in the world. He feels that
! archeology, music and art are all related emotionallv.
! And. remember, he loves the great outdoors. When we
: dropped in to see him in his modest home in Holly-
' wood, he was tying flies for fishing. He likes to hike and
climb and dig. Obviously, he can neither write nor
i play music in the wilds. And he does his painting at
home, too, reconstructing scenes from memory. He in-
! sists that his painting influences his music.
and his archeology influences both his music .
; and his art.
Because he loves the study of the lives of
human beings who have long since disappeared
from this world, Stahl set himself to become
| a really professional archeologist. That he suc-
| ceeded in uncovering the first "Pinto deposit."
i or under-surface layer of bones and artifacts of
' prehistoric peoples, which cannot be identified
with any previously known civilization, proves
! that \^ illy Stahl. archeologist, is one of the best.
'Backyard" is one of Sfahi's most praised paintings for its color and perspective
Deserf rock inspired "Stratification"
'tittle Rock Dam" was recreated in his studio
29
STYLED
"Good style never changes . . .
good designing never dies." says
Irene, studio designer for
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer. Here we
show you some of her favorite
tricks in creating costumes
not only for screen stars but
for the public as well. One
favorite technique is the use of
thin lines of beading to accent
a gown. On this page, gowns
for Barbara Stanwyck, Jeanette
MacDonald and Katherine
Hepburn. While beading
catches light, it is not dis-
tracting. Opposite, left, a good
design that's still good . . .
Marlene Dietrich's 8-year old
gown, designed for entertain-
ing overseas, is still in active
use. Making a suit an integral
part of a wardrobe, Irene
favors a touch of white at
the neck. Especially
in pictures, she uses
black net or chiffon
over nude fabric, as opposite,
the dress for Deborah Kerr.
30
BY IRENE
3Y EDIE JONES
Irene, Head Designer, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer,
Has Her Own Smooth Way With Feminine Fancies
Irene Designs Clothes
With a Gentle Air
Since she opened the doors of her own exclusive salon
in Culver City about two years ago. Irene has clung
to her personal belief in the function of fashion . . .
to make woman more appealing!) feminine, a picture
wherever she goes.
Yielding to no foreign dictates of style, she has de-
veloped her own fashion credo, is quick to admit that
the simple elegance of her clothes stresses dignity of
figure, grace of carriage.
Her airy studio, sought out by stars and fashion-wise
women of the world, is only a stone's throw from Metro
32
Goldwyn Mayer studios where she is busy as head fashion
designer. During her six years at this major motion
picture studio. Irene has developed an infallible sense
of drama in fashion. Despite this, she never brings the
over-emphasis of cinema styling into her exclusive line
of couturier clothes, now carried by 26 of America's
leading stores.
\K hile her line includes impeccably tailored suits,
afternoon and casual clothes with a gentle air, it is her
evening clothes we bring you here . . . the pure for-
mality of the Empire tunic gown of silk jersey with
cascade of lilacs, opposite page, left; or navy silk crepe
with scalloped bone bodice and pleated stole, at Bullock's.
Los An°;eles; W. Filene's, Boston.
This page, the very new "early evening" fashions
. . . left, in moss green silk taffeta, the portrait neckline
and irregular skirt length are style notes. At Ransohoff's,
San Francisco; Bergdorf & Goodman, New York. Right,
platinum flamisole, a fabric, with billow skirt. African
safety pin ornament: at W. Filene's. Boston: Joseph
Home. Pittsburgh.
33
Dining room once adorned "Black Pirate" set
by william kennedy
Jack McDermott, the
fabulous man of films
B &J HIGH in the Hollyw 1 Hills
^k overlooking the San Fernando
^L Valley stand- "the craziest
|| "jfl house in America" . . a monu-
ment to the whimsy and in-
genuity of the man who built
it entirely by hand from stage
props used in lavish productions of the silent
screen era.
Master of the fabulous hillside castle was the
late Jack McDermott, brilliant and versatile
writer, director and actor, world traveler and
professional Merry Andrew, who made the house
a Hollywood legend and the epicenter of the
film colony after-dark revelry in the gilded days
when Valentino was the reigning idol.
In the early 1920's when McDermott first
came to Hollywood, it was smart and profitable
to pose as an eccentric, and he soon became
known as the daffiest of them all. Seeking a
secluded spot to finish his scenario of "The But-
terfly Man" for Harold Lloyd, he moved a
piano box up into the hills and made it his
weekend home. Then, as the years went by, he
began to build, room by room, using rock dug
out of the ground for the foundation. At first
it was just a hobby, but in time it became his
main interest in life.
Huge pieces of scenery from the film sets, fan-
tastic minarets, wrought iron and flagstone, and
ornately carved doors were acquired from the
studios and hauled up the narrow pass to be-
come part of the rambling castle. Located so
high above the valley, the address was listed as
"Cloud 6. Hollywood."
Hand-carved jade and thousands of pieces of
Florentine tile were brought back from his
travels in Europe and the Orient. Other unusual
pottery, statues and paintings from every corner
of the world were sent to him by friends in the
movie colony. In a few years the house emerged
as a fantasy of subterranean passages, sunken
gardens, shaded patios and ivy-covered roofs
crowned with arabesque minarets . . a fusion of
an Oriental joss house, the witch's hut in Han-
sel and Gretel. and (Continued on page 52)
34
RAZIEST HOUSE IN AMERICA
1 1
One of subterranean passageways lead-
ing to swimming pool from lower patio
ffie house that jack built
of treasures of many
movie sets became the mecca
for holly wood' s great
in the roaring twenties era
Spider design in import-
ed tile by swimming pool
ALIFORNIA
OOKS
-:
By Helen Evans Brown
■
CALIFORNIANS
EAT HUMBLE PIE
AND ENJOY IT
. AND OTHER
PIES AS WELL
IN CALIFORNIA the 1949'ers have
discovered what fun it is to cook. And
at the moment it's pie. Everyone seems
to be discovering at once that almost
any food, when properly seasoned and
sauced and encased in some kind of
crust, is both exciting and economical.
Even Hollywood, once concerned more
with the throwing of pies than with
their creation, is now busy thinking of
new ways to fill a pie dish, new ways
to cover it. Thus creamed fish is
topped with pancakes, bacon and eggs
are disguised in a crisp suet pastry,
and onions are covered with a thick
crust of cheese.
Every cook has his own opinion about
the making of pastry. Mine is to use
half lard and half butter, or all lard,
a habit which has caused many an
eyebrow to elevate. Two-thirds of a cup
of shortening to two cups of flour, with
a full teaspoon of salt. If I want the
pastry extra rich and flaky. I roll it
out. dot it with butter, then fold and
roll it several times. For meat pies,
especiallv kidney pies. I have another
favorite: I buy the kidneys (beef I still
encased in their protecting fat. This
I remove and render in a slow oven.
When cooled it makes a superb pie
shortening, giving the crust a crisp-
ness and flavor that is extra special.
Another trick for meat pies is to add
an herb or poultry seasoning to the
crust . . a teaspoonful for each two
cups of flour.
"To eat humble pie" is no punish-
ment today . . at least for those who
like kidneys, sweetbreads, or such. Not
so during the Tudor reign when the in-
nards or "umbles" of an animal were
looked upon with disdain. It was the
custom to make them into "pyes" and
serve them to those of low rank who
sat "below the salt," while those whose
blood ran bluer were fed with prime
roasts, lark's tongues and other deli-
cacies. When guests were in disfavor,
or children . . even grown ones . . failed
to show proper respect to their elders,
thev were exiled to the foot of the table
to "eat humble pie" and meditate upon
their sins. Today a sweetbread pie is
sheer luxury, and a kidney pie a de-
light for epicures. In California steak
and kidney pie is very popular. We make
it in the English manner, cooking the
meat in the crust.
STEAK AND
KIDNEY PIE
i Skin and core a beef
or veal kidney and
cut it into pieces. Have
two pounds of tender
round steak sliced thin, and cut it into
strips about two by four inches. Dip
the meat in seasoned flour, making sure
that it's covered all over, then roll a
piece of kidney in each strip, press-
ing together firmly. Put the rolls on
end into a baking dish, packing them
close together so that they will hold
their shape. Add a quart of very rich,
well-seasoned meat stock, put a rather
thick crust of pastry on top. and seal
the edges to the dish with beaten egg.
Pile the scraps of pastry that are left
on top of each other and roll them an
eighth of an inch thick. With a pastry
wheel or a sharp knife cut shapes of
leaves and flowers ( or birds and beasts
if you prefer! and decorate the top of
the pie in your most artful manner.
Brush with an egg that has been slightly
beaten with a little water, and bake
36
for an hour and three-quarters to two
hours at 350 degrees, covering the crust
with brown paper if it becomes too
brown. If you insist, you may have a
bottom crust, too.
Ham as the piece de resistance at a
buffet supper is practically standard
equipment the country over. In Cali-
fornia its banality is somewhat lessened
by the dishes that are served with it.
One such . . and a terrific one . . is
ONION PIE
Slice six large onions so thin that you
can see through them, and cook them
until they're wilted in a half-cup of
butter or ham fat. Scald two cups of
rich milk, season it with a half-teaspoon
of salt and a few grindings of black
pepper, and add four beaten eggs. Line
a pie tin with pastry, add the onions.
pour over the egg-milk mixture, and
sprinkle the top thickly with grated
cheese. Bake as you would a custard
pie . . which is actually what it is . .
and serve hot.
One of the nicest things about having
a baked ham is that there is almost al-
ways enough left for a ham and oyster
pie, a dish so utterly perfect that you
have to ask friends in to share it. An-
other party!
HAM AND
OYSTER PIE
A rich crust for this one, please, but
only a top one. This is because oysters
have to be handled tenderly . . cooked
just enough to warm their hearts so
that they will be as tender as the day
they were spawned. The crust is baked
separately: make the kind of pastry that
I mentioned above, the dotted-with-but-
ter variety. Roll, not too thin, on a
piece of waxed paper, and cut it in a
circle slightly larger than the top of the
pie dish it is to fit. Chill. Meanwhile
cut left over baked ham into half-inch
cubes, two cups of them, and add to a
quart of cream sauce (one-half cup
butter, one-half cup flour, 4 cups of rich
milk, a teaspoon of salt, and a quarter-
teaspoon of monosodium glutamate.)
Heat well in the casserole in which
the pie is to be served. At the same
time put the crust on a cookie sheet
and bake until a pretty brown. Now
add a pint of oysters to the ham mix-
ture and heat until they become plump
and their edges curl. Very carefully,
using two spatulas, lift the crust (which
is hot!) from the cookie sheet to the
top of the pie, and serve it forth. (A
half-pound of sauteed mushrooms may
be added to the filling. Did mushrooms
ever do anything any harm? I
Tamale pie is not my favorite dish,
but as it is a favorite with many Cali-
fornians. I must be wrong. Certainly
it is an inexpensive dish and a filling
one, which makes it a smart thing to
serve when one has to feed a hungry
horde.
TAMALE PIE
Brown a minced clove of garlic and
a cup of chopped onion in two table-
spoons of shortening. Add three cups
of cubed cooked meat, preferably pork,
though beef, veal, or chicken are often
used. Now add a tablespoon of chili
powder, a quarter-teaspoon of ground
coriander or oregano. two cups of
canned tomatoes, and salt to your taste.
Cook slowly for twenty minutes then
add a cup of pitted ripe olives. The
"crust" is made either with corn meal
mush or with masa (masa is the dough
from which tortillas are made. Un-
less you live near a large Mexican
population, forget it and use the mush. )
For a quart and a half of mush (six
cups of water, two of corn meal, one
tablespoon of salt) or the like amount
of masa. add two tablespoons of melted
lard and work smooth with your hands.
Line a casserole with two-thirds of the
mush, add the meat mixture (and. if you
wish, a cup of diced Monterey Jack
cheese) and spread the remaining mush
on top. Sprinkle the top with grated
cheese and bake in a slow oven for
an hour.
FISH
PANCAKE PIE
Mince a medium-sized white onion and
cook it in a half-cup of butter or short-
ening. Add a half-cup of flour, cook
two minutes, then add two cups of
cream or top milk and two and a half
cups of fish stock made from the trim-
mings and bones of the fish (or use
all milk if you can't be bothered!).
When smooth and thickened, season
with salt and pepper (monosodium
glutamate. too, if you can't stay away
from the stuff), then add two and a
half pounds of any cooked white fish
(or salmon) that has been cut into
not-too-small pieces. Set this mixture
aside. Now butter a casserole and mix
up a batch of your favorite pancake
batter. I Prepared mix may be used, but
be sure to add extra liquid so that you'll
have thin cakes.) Now make a thin
pancake the size of the bottom of the
casserole and put it just there . . in the
bottom. Make more cakes and arrange
them around the sides, overlapping each
other and the bottom cake and having
their edges hanging over the top. Do
you get the picture? You should have
a dish completely lined with pancakes.
looking very much like a pastry-lined
dish before it's trimmed. Now add the
fish filling, which, incidentally, may be
flavored with Sherry or Vermouth, or
have mushrooms, almonds, or ripe olives
added to it. On top goes another pan-
cake and those hanging over the sides
are folded up over it. If I've described
this correctly, you now have a mighty
pretty dish on your hands . . one nicely
scalloped. Before serving it, put it in
a moderate oven until it's thoroughly
heated. With a salad and some cheese,
you have an epicurean supper that may
be made for a song, and one that's
worth singing for.
HAMBURG
SHEPHERD
PIE
Mince a large
onion and a clove
of garlic, and saute in two tablespoons
of your pet shortening. When it's trans-
parent add two pounds of hamburger,
and let it brown slightly, breaking it
with a fork. Now sprinkle in a table-
spoon of flour and a half-teaspoon of
herbs (try marjoram or basil or tar-
ragon), and salt and pepper to your
taste. Add two cups of water and cook
slowly for ten minutes, then add either
a jigger of brandy or a half-cup of red
wine or tomato puree. Cool. Now line
a well-buttered casserole with mashed
potato that is well seasoned and has
been mixed with whole eggs (you'll
want two eggs for four cups of mashed
potatoes). Chill, add the meat mixture,
and spread more potatoes over the top.
Brush with melted butter, and bake at
350 degrees until the pie is hot and
the top a gorgeous brown.
'"Four and twenty blackbirds baked
in a pie" was no gag dreamed up for
the amusement of children. There was
a time when such a dish was set before
a king. Kings were apparently difficult
persons in those days, getting petulant
and sometimes downright vicious if
their cooks didn't provide sufficient nov-
elty in their culinary creations. The
harassed cooks tried baking pies with
a variety of fillings: "surprise pyes."
These were elaborate beyond belief:
huge edifices built of pastry in various
shapes. One. fashioned like a stag, was
filled with claret (a neat trick. I should
say I. and when a lady guest was per-
suaded to pluck an arrow that was im-
bedded in its side, the blood-colored
wine gushed from the "wound." Charm-
ing? The crusts of some innocent-look-
ing pies were cut and out hopped live
frogs and birds "which made the ladies
to skip and shreek" and "caused much
delight and pleasure to the whole com-
pany" or so said Robert May in 1660.
"Surprise pyes," at least the ones filled
with objects better suited to menagerie
and aviary are, fortunately, no longer
in vogue, but any pie can be a surprise.
Next time your meal of leftovers shows
signs of mediocrity, top it with a crust.
Then at least you'll rouse some interest
in what lies beneath!
37
California suits . . . softly tailored with a suave
hint of sophistication. Left, Lilli Ann's
deeply cuffed sleeves, slim skirt, worsted
gabardine. Center, petite proportions in striped
jacket, solid color skirt; Gaines & Co.
Right. Kay Saks uses contrasting colors,
fine Botany gabardine.
38
Classic or free-flowing, you'll love the season's new coats and
suits! Left, beloved gabardine by Queens of Hollywood. Sizes 10-20,
7-15. About $60. Above, below, a shortie with modicum of flare, fitted yoke
detail. Juilliard wool; Jack L. Goldberg. Sizes 10-38. About $60.
J. \*i. Robinson. Los Angeles; Kahn's. Oakland: City of Paris.
San Francisco. Right: Beautiful cardigan gabardine suit by
Rosenblum. Sizes 10-20. $49.95. Carson's. Chicago;
Roos Bros.. San Francisco: The May Co.. Lcs Angeles.
Irene Dunne . . California Millinery Queen
Irene Dunne, Queen of California Millinery for Spring of 1949. has always thought
the hat makes the woman. The success of her first screen test depended upon the choice
of just the right chapeau. She searched through the studio's millinery and finally
% L
CASPAR-DAVIS
MEADOWBROOK
RUBY ROSS
borrowed the hat the wardrobe mistress was wearing. From that day on Miss Dunne.
star of "I Remember Mama." a George Stevens production and RKO release, has
made sure that hats were part of her ensemble. The lovely jewelled, flowered and feath-
ered hats she wears here were created for her by ten leading California milliners.
43
"A man is flattered by a woman who dresses for romance," says
James Stewart, star of the MGM production, "The Stratton Story."
For dinner-dancing or gay cocktail parties . . . exciting off-the-shoulder dress in tissue faille,
Andree Gay Creations. Charming gathered skirt, molded waist, sizes 7-17, 8-18, under $35.
^— Opposite page, designed to steal hearts . . . for your Stardust evenings, a Valentine in red and white dotted swiss,
by Emma Domb. Sizes 10-16. about $30. Macy's, San Francisco; The Paris, Salt Lake City; Sanger Bros., Dallas.
45
-
•
New suede bags by
Ben Brody in a bright
color counterpoint
to the basic theme of
navy, black, grey, beige,
brown . . accented with
decorative gold-plated
bars.
A trio of bags as glowins
complements to your
suits and dresses. Above:
a diagonal envelope
with smart slanted
closing flap, knotted
handle.
Above right: classic
simplicity in a square
satchel. Right:
feminine appeal in a
pretty bag shaped like a
small flower pot.
Color at the Tip of Your Fingers
46
Wedgie with a vivid
promise of spring and
summer by "Vic" Colton,
left. Intricate straps
doubly flattering.
In either suede or calf.
Lovely cross-strap
calf shoe, below, designed
for comfort as well as
beauty by Ted Saval. Full
range of exciting
colors. At fine stores.
And the Tip of Your Toes
Lemon, rosy-beige, avocado, dusty pink, sun-
bronze, kelly, flag red . . . these are some of the
new spring and summer colors for shoes and bags,
brilliant accents in the California manner with
early spring tweeds, linens, chambrays, or gabar-
dines.
With a flair for styling shoes with comfort,
beauty, and originality, our California designers
were pioneers in the colorful playshoe. derivative
of the dainty ballet slipper and Grecian sandal.
This same flair evident in shoes for beachwear
and active sports has been translated to footwear
for the cocktail hour and late-in-the-evening.
Eye-catching patterns, superb detail, dramatic
California colors . . . these are the qualities which
distinguish the striking bags by our designers. At
the tips of your fingers and the tips of your toes.
you"ll have a bright sparkle of color with these
lovely new bags and shoes for spring and summer!
47
IN
CALIFOR N I A
T'S
RUTH KAPELSKY is one of the
few women who can unravel the
mysteries of a stock exchange. As
secretary of the San Francisco mart
she is a top authority on the gov-
ernment's security market regulation.
RUSS WESTOVER was head office boy for South-
ern Pacific when he discovered he'd rather draw
than run a railroad. "Tillie the Toiler" emerged in
1921 after a stint on the San Francisco Bulletin;
Westover has been godfather to Tillie ever since.
EYVIND EARLE and his wee daugh-
ter, Kristen, are happy to be in Cali-
fornia even though the artist earns
money by painting pictures of snow.
Earle's winter scenes are widely ac-
claimed for greeting cards . . his "Long
Island Snow Scene" hangs in the
Metropolitan Museum. Still, his artistry
is part-time. He works for architects.
ELIZABETH MAILLIARD decided
that three children didn't take up
enough of her time; started turning
out fine lithographs from the basement
of her San Francisco home and now
enjoys an international reputation. One
print hangs in Library of Congress.
WILLIAM MODGLIN of Los An-
geles claims to be the housewife's
dream. He swept away a hundred
years of tradition with the inven-
tion of a plastic broom, designed,
he says, for "electrostatic action."
48
;an Durain has an eye for dainty femininity . . . created
j this series in organdy, matelasse effect in assorted colors:
ft, ruffiy dress is accented with eyelet embroidery, sizes 3-6, under $7.95: sizes
Il2, under $8.95. Above, petite pinafore and below, assorted color apron effect dress
combined with plain white organdy. Both in sizes 3-6, about $7.95 ; sizes 7-12, about $8.95.
49
Lithe Lines
SKETCHES BY A. M. MINER
For a striking figure . . . foundations with freedom of
action. This page left, "Radiant" bra and
power net girdle; both by Charmfit of Hollywood. Center, new strapless
bra from Mam'zelle. Right, "Curvaceous" evening bra by Anne Alt.
Opposite page left, Lov-e's custom fit Hi-Point bra. Right, deep
plunge bra by Helene of Hollywood for decollete necklines.
31
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
ut'fts in the
\jalifornia manner
3^^
-2jZ«*-%S5«^cZ:
HAND-PAINTED BLACKBOARDS: Personalized
with your first name (or kiddie's name) too! For
the nursery, child's board features hand-painted
illustration of child and balloons; while kitchen
blackboard features hand-painted fruit. Both
boards measure 12x16 inches. $2.95 each, post-
paid.
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become
a champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes
with complete directions, $1.00, postpaid. Child's
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over any
boot or shoe. $2.95. postpaid.
TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint-
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c post-
age).
No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 2'/j% sales tax J
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
THE CORRAL SHOP
• OX 911 I IAKHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
IN FEBRUARY
Shortest month of the year, but in
California February is crammed full of
exciting things to do . . . from the
thrill of races at Santa Anita to the
peace of the desert (Palm Springs is
just over a hundred miles from Los
Angeles), from the heady whirl of a
social season to the calm satisfaction
of mild winter.
Lest we mislead you, let it be said
here and now that February is inclined
to leak at the cloud-line, so bring a
raincoat, rubbers, umbrella! And in
planning your California travel ward-
robe, there are a few basic rules to
simplify your packing problem:
Visualize your whole wardrobe in
terms of a basic suit, then expand to
fill all anticipated needs (and all avail-
able luggage). One all-purpose suit
can be varied with gay sweaters, tailored
or frothy blouses, one of the new-
jewelled bibs or scarves. With a match-
ing or blending topcoat . . . furs if you
have them . . . and at least two hats to
fit your mood!
The soft wool casual dress is advised
for comfort and all-round wearability.
For the rest, bring evening clothes
only if you have specific and formal
engagements planned. A long skirt to be
worn with a dress-up blouse will suffice
in all but most elegant instances, while
a cocktail suit or afternoon dress will
be invaluable. A new spring print, re-
freshing and gay, is another sugges-
tion for important occasions.
Your itinerary will decide the rest of
your wardrobe ... to include swim and
sun suits and summer whites for a desert
stay, snow togs for the mountains.
WEATHER DATA FOR
FEBRUARY
Los
Angeles
San
Francisco
Average maximum 62.0
Average minimum 45.4
Highest 75.
Lowest 40.
56.5
46.8
65.
42.
"THE CRAZIEST
HOUSE IN AMERICA"!
(Continued from page 34) the stately pleasure ',
dome in Kubla Kahn.
The dining room was made from the cap-
tain's cabin on the Spanish galleon used in
the Douglas Fairbanks picture, "The Black
Pirate," and the guests dine at a low inlaid
oak table while seated on camel cushions. The
minarets came from the "Thief of Bagdad,"
and the fences around the tiled patios were
part of a temple set in some long-forgotten
epic.
The fireplace boasts a huge copper kettle,"
and the mantle is lined with oriental objets
d'art, Persian water-pipes, museum pieces of
Asiatic pottery, and a cocktail set made ofu
tiny skulls which was a gift from Jack Demp-
sey. In the corner hangs an armory of an-
cient guns and swords once wielded in the
epic battles of the screen. And on the walls
are exquisite dining plates that date back toS
Napoleon.
A labyrinth of dark subterranean passage- 1
ways which honeycomb the ground under the
hillside, the sliding doors and panels lend an
eerie touch to the fantastic abode, which con-
trasts startlingly with the sun-bathed swim- 9
ming pool inlaid with thousands of hand-
painted French and Italian tiles in a spider
design.
It was inevitable that such a storied castle Si
should become the scene of gay film colony
parties, and in the years gone by it rang with
merriment by night. A butler was stationed
at the entrance to a tunnel in the side of v
the hill, and the guests made their way
through the passageway which terminated in
a manhole, with steel cover, next to tie fire-
place in the living room.
When McDermott was entertaining at a
stag party, he would sit cross-legged on one .
of the cushions, beating on a ceremonial Afri-
can drum. When the rhythmic tom-tom reached
a crescendo the tunnel cover would slowly
lift and dozens of scantily clad dancing girls
would undulate into the room. John Barry-
more was a constant visitor . . he remembered
the house vividly, because he once fell down
the steps into an underground stairway. The
silent screen stars, Colleen Moore, Norman
Kerry, Greta Nissen; the writers, Nunnally
Johnson, Gene Fowler and Adela Rogers St. |
Johns, and the directors, Rex Ingram, Jacques ,
Jaccard and scores of others gathered nightly
after their filmland chores. Jaccard today oc-
cupies the house alone.
It was McDermott himself, however, who
primed the parties by getting up many an
elaborate gag. In one of the guest rooms he
installed a fireplace under the bed, and the
main utilitarian appurtenance in the bath-
room was equipped with an ear-splitting siren
whose unseemly and unexpected noise always
embarrassed the uninitiated. One of his fa-
vorite pastimes was taking his friends for a
ride at a breakneck clip around the moun-
tain roads in his Model T Ford. When they
complained about the danger, he would calmly
lift the steering wheel off its post and hand
it to the horrified passengers. The victims
didn't know that the car was rigged with a I
foot-steering device. The gag backfired one 1
night, however, when he removed the steering
wheel and then discovered that the foot
apparatus was out of order. McDermott and his I1
passengers frantically leaped out of the car |i
just before it shot off a cliff and crashed
to pieces on the rocks below.
His was a fabulous existence, and he lived I
it to the hilt in his hillside castle for a quar- IB
ter century before he grew weary of life, ||
Then, one black night in July 1946, at the I
age of 53, he drew the curtains in his tile- i>!
walled bedroom and shut out the world with !>'
an overdose of sleeping pills.
It has been called "the craziest house in 1
America," but to those who watched it rise
from the brow of a hill it will always be The
House That Jack Built . . a perennial me-
mento of the man who built it and the glory
that was Hollywood in the days gone by.
52
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
CALIFORNIA GOLD RUSH TRACED
by hazel alien pulling
Where To Buy California Hand Prints
California Hand Prints, appearing on the second cover, are available at the
dlowing stores:
ine of the high points in current
iliforniana is Owen C. Coy's In
Diggings in 'Forty-Nine (Los-
ngeles. California State Histori-
Association. 131p.S3.00) Writ-
n by a scholar who has devoted
ars to the study of California's
old Rush era and whose lectures
1 the subject at the University of
uithern California annually at-
act scores of students, this ac-
unt is a definitive study of the
bject. From an introduction that
lowers the oft-repeated question
why the gold deposits lay where
ey did. the narrative poceeds to
ace the opening of mines and the
tablishment of camps wherever
ck led the way. From northern
ountains through the Sierra Ne-
da and on to southland ranges,
ch camp is meticulously located
id its history traced. Life "in the
ggings" is then sketched with
nphasis on mining methods,
aim staking, and the develop-
ed of political and social modus
vendi. Sketch maps and a full
hliography accompany the rec-
ti. A large scale map of the gold
ea may be purchased separately
>r S2.00 unmounted or $10.00 on
oth. Together, the map and the
rrative provide the first complete
tracing of the gold region of
ilifornia as it was during those
ctic days of 1849.
WONDERLAND PHOTOS
A book for nature lovers is the
new Yosemile and the Sierra
Nevada published recently by
Houghton Mifflin Company. This
is a collection of the famous photo-
graphs of California's wonderland
by Ansel Adams each one enliv-
ened by appropriate excerpts from
the writings of the noted naturalist.
John Muir. Together they form a
unique combination of the best in
photography, nature, and litera-
ture. The book is well worth the
price of $7.50.
HISTORICAL NOVELS
Two new works of fiction whose
locale is California are Virginia
Meyers' Angelo's Wife, a story of
the Spanish era that bears some-
thing of the throbbing vitality of
Gone With the Wind (Bobbs-Mer-
rill. S3.00). and Lee Atkins' //
This Be My Harvest, a tale of
present-day life in the rich San
Joaquin Valley (Crown. $3.00).
Widely separated in the time each
depicts, these novels are rewarding
reading for their history of diver-
gent eras as well as for their val-
ues in pure entertainment.
Editor s note : If you would like
Dr. Pulling's interpretation or
recommendation on further Cali-
forniana, please write to her in
care of The Californian.
ARIZONA: Sasson, Albert Steinfeld.
CALIFORNIA: Glendale, Godwin's; Los
Angeles, Bullock's; Napa, Carithers; Pasa-
dena, Bullock's; Santa Cruz, Samuel Leask
& Sons; Santa Maria, W. A. Haslam & Co.,
Inc.; Watsonville, The Charles Ford Co.
COLORADO: Colorado Springs, Hibbard
Co.; Denver, Fredericks Fabrics, Inc.; Pueblo,
Colorado Fuel & Iron Corp.; Trinidad,
Jamison's Dept. Stores.
FLORIDA: Daytona Beach, Yowell-Drew-
Ivey Co.; Fort Pierce, Rubin Brothers;
Gainesville, Nelson's; Ocala, Rheinauer's;
Orlando, Yowell-Drew-lvey Co.; Pensacolo,
Bon Marche; Sanford, Yowell Co.; Tampa,
Adolph Katz.
IDAHO: Lewiston, The Emporium; Moscow,
David's Inc.; Pocatello, Fargo-Wilson-Wells;
Twin Falls, Idaho Dept. Store.
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Co.;
Evanston, Marshall Field & Co.; Oak Park,
Marshall Field & Co.
MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, The Dayton
Company.
MONTANA: Billings, D. J. Cole Co.; Kali-
spell, Winkler's.
NORTH CAROLINA: Durham, Ellis Stone &
Co.; Goldsboro, The Hub; Greensboro, Ellis
Stone & Co.; Statesville, Ramsey-Bowles Co.
NORTH DAKOTA: Fargo, O. J. De Len-
drecies Co.
NEW YORK: New York, Lord 8. Taylor.
OHIO: Celina, Rentzch's; Norwood, Floto's.
OREGON: Albany, Hamilton's.
TENNESSEE: Dayton, The Dress Shop; John-
son City, King's, Inc.; Knoxville, Miller's,
Inc.; La Follette, La Follette Dept. Store;
Sevierville, The Corner Store; Rogersville,
Rod Armstrong & Co.
TEXAS: Gainesville, Clayton Dry Goods Co.;
Graham, The Morrison Co.
WASHINGTON: Bremerton, Bremer's Dept.
Store; Enumclaw, Jensen & Co.; Olympic,
Harris Dry Goods Co.; Okanogan, C. F.
Blackwell & Co.; Puyallup, Elvins Co.;
Morton, Elvins Dept. Store; Seattle, Fred-
erick & Nelson; Spokane, The Palace;
Toppenish, Graham-Leimig Co.; Walla
Walla, Gordon & Co.
WYOMING: Casper, Gordon Stores; Chey-
enne, The Fashion; Sheridan, Stevens
Fryberger & Co., Inc.
NEW! RADIANT GLASS HEAT
ELECTRIC
PORTABLE
HEATER
. 1 j
•
SAFE
Will not
ignite
paper or
fabric
*•
KICK IT OVER OR STAND ON IT — IT
WON'T BREAK
APPROVED BY: Un-
derwriters Laboratories:
Commissioner NYC
MATERIALS
SCARCE BUT
WHILE THEY
LAST ONLY
S29.95
Satisfaction
Guaranteed
or
Money Back
Dept. Water, Gas &
Electricity.
EFFICIENT: Uses
about 1,000 watts t or
approximately a Kilo-
watt per hour. Heats
you directly. Floor-
ceiling heat variation
only about 4 degrees ;
puts heat near floor where needed.
RADIANT heat makes you comfortable at
several degrees lower room temperature. Con-
tinues to give off heat for over half hour
after it is disconnected. Invented in France.
Used to heat Magi not Line. Lessens effect
on humidity and oxygen. No flames — no glow
— no fumes — no light. t No moving parts or
blowers. No more roasting on one side, freez-
ing on other. No more red-hot coils. Designed
for toughness. Element consists of aluminum
alloy fused into back of tempered, break-re-
sisting glass at high temperature. A _ glass on
both sides radiates heat in all directions. Ex-
cellent source of supplementary heat. Hand-
somely framed 15"x20" in polished aluminum,
fitting any decorative scheme. AC or DC.
Made for 110 volts; 220 volts on request.
Just plug it in. 7' electric cord. H. B. of N. J.
writes: "It is all you said it is and more."
Send check or money order today. Shipped
express charges collect. Shipping weight 21 lbs.
PARNflGPY'^ 29 Centra! Ave., Dept. RH-1600
UHnilHULI O Tarrytown, New York
"LITTLE PANCHO"
JEWELRY
lrling "Little Pancho," most typical figure
the West, has now been handcrafted into
vein- originals . . . vou'll love them for
iirself, and as gifts for your friends. Light-
ight, about 1" high, vour choice of silver
gold. Attractively gift-boxed.
ff links..... SI. 95 pair
ap-on scarf holder S1.9S
ids, set of 3 $2.50
{not shown)
ni attire earrings Si. 75 pari
niature stickpins SI. 00 each
uxury tax included. Add 2^% sales tax
tn California, 3% in Los Angeles.)
EVELYN LEE BENNETT
Dept. 405
1215 S. Norton. Los Angeles 6. Calif.
INDIAN BRACELETS
for YOUR Valentine
ZUNI BRACELET, pictured: a
gem of a gift, Sterling silver,
paved with 12 to 15 hand-cut
turquoise.
each S2.95
GUARD BRACELETS
Sterling silver twists to wear in
pairs, or multiples, or with other
bracelets.
pair $1.90
Prices include Federal tax and postage
TEEPEE TRADERS
Gallup New Mexico
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
53
LOOK YOUNGER
as You Grow Older
A PROVEN SCIENTIFIC
FACIAL TREATMENT
AND
PLEASANT NON-SURGICAL
REJUVENATION and FACE LIFT
(1) REMOVES blackheads, white heads, and
tissre debris.
(2) CORRECTS enlarged, clogged pores, dry
skin, oily skin, sallowness, and blem-
ishes.
(3) CLEARS the skin of acne and pimples.
(4) SMOOTHES wrinkles, and erases facial
lines.
(5) TIGHTENS sagging cheeks and double
chins.
(6) INCREASES circulation and tissue nutri-
tion.
(7) VITALIZES nerve, gland, muscle and
skin structure.
(8) RESTORES natural, lovely skin.
Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest
you:
A I ham bra 2021 Primrose Ave.
Belmort Shore 203 Glendora Ave.
Berkeley 1762 Solano Ave.
3155 College Ave.
Fresno 3097 Tulare St.
Hollywood 1627 N. Cohuenga Blvd.
Glendale 1123 N. Brand Blvd.
Long Beach 742 Pine Ave.
Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd.
900 S. Norton Ave.
Modesto 322 Burney St.
N rth Hollywood 12131 Riverside Dr.
Oakland 1225 Broadway
Pasadena 258 S. Las Robles Ave.
Pomona 200 E. Center St.
San Francisco 150 Powell St.
San Jose Porter Bldg.
San Mateo 318 B. Street
Santa Ana .405 Vi N. Broadway
Santa Monica. ...271 0 E. Santa Monica Blvd.
Imported from Italy
MINIATURE CHIANTI
BOTTLES
Salt & Pepper Shakers
Far and away the cutest salt and pepper
shakers seen are these authentic Chianti wine
bottles 3 5 2 " tall. Sure conversation sparkers
for informal supper parties! Perfect gift and
collector's item ! 1 green, 1 red.
Send check or money orders. No C.O.D.'s.
WRITE FOR FREE CATALOG
flsjMUVtcf yfy
HOTEL COMMODORE • 42nd ST. t LEX. AVE.. H. T. 17
Miniature
spinning HHjeeLs
An attractive ornament for your home and
and interesting gift. This miniature spin-
ning; wheel stands 15" high with a lS1/^"
wheel. Expertly handmade from choice
woods.
It costs only $12.50 P°«P°'d-
No C.O.D.'s please
THOMAS NOVELTY CO.
B^MH III
792 Maple Ave. • Glen Rock, N. J.
'ORCHID"
"SunKroft Originals"
GLEAMING CERAMIC CANDLEHOLDERS
"ORCHID" — A realistic, gorgeous orchid makes up
itriking set. Flower of orchid color, set on mirror
black base. 5" diam.
$4.50 Pr. Postpaid.
"EARLY AMERI-
CAN" — Delightful
pitcher & bowl, in the
form of sparkling can-
dleholders, 4/' high.
Mirror black, pastel
green,# pastel blue,
sunshine yellow, wild
orchid. $4.00 Pr. Post-
paid.
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s
"SunKroft Pottery"
330 West 15th
Panama City, Florida
"EARLY AMERICAN"
Californian's Fashion Panel of Stars
Here they are! The Californian Magazine's star-studded guest list of stat
screen, and radio personalities who were invited to comment on their preferen
in fashions.
1. Charlie McCarthy
2. Gregory Peck
3. Louis Jourdan
4. James Stewart
5. Robert Taylor
6. Henry Fonda
7. Jack Benny
Throughout the pages of the magazine, you'll find the frank opinions of the
masculine stars as they discuss what they like in women's clothes. And typical
these comments is the remark of Robert Taylor, co-star of MGM'S "The Bribe
who said, "Women's playclothes designed for a purpose, for life outdoors, make tl
most sense to me." On the other hand, Louis Jourdan, David O. Selznick star ne:
to be seen in "Madame Bovary," leaned more to the starlight mood. "The cloth
I like . . . should be demure but flirtatious and their charm should be elusive
In general, we discovered this . . . that out of the dream-world of stardom, mr
are just men, with an eye for appealing women's fashions . . . and with a definite
approving nod for California's designs!
Handmade Leather Pouch Bags
Softest leather is used in this exquisite handmade
pouch bag. It's deep and roomy, all leather lined,
with safety catch fastener. Shoulder straps detach,
so it may be carried as a handbag. Sold exclu-
sively by us. Your choice of saddle brown, choco
late, seal brown. Continental green, red, black,
navy blue or natural.
t11 Ifl (p'us 20% luxury tax,
JII.JJ 2'/n% sales tax in Calif.,
3% sales tax in Los Angeles)
I M
THIRD & FAIRFAX
PORTERS
tOS ANGEtES 36,
CALIF.
7tW^^«6»;\..D0 IT THE EASY WAY!
with the
Garment Rack
EASY
PACK
• No more wrinkled clothes
• No pocking— no pressing bills
• Holds many garments
• Fits all cars— no tools needed
• Does not obstruct rear view
Made of sturdy, rust-proof aluminum, weighs
1*4 pounds. Hangs over doors in hotel, cab'n
or home. Adjustable, collapsible, compact. Im-
mediate shipment ! Postpaid, send check or
money order — C.O.D. postage extra.
Patents applied for. Money back guarantee.
THE H. H. EBY COMPANY — BOX 808W-FORT WAYNE, INDIANA
1 rack v
$^ Postpaid
for O in U.S.A.
So Precious!
— So Fresh and
Sparkling
irect to You
Bayfort's "Cameo" Chair is so darling — so
remindful of an exquisite, jewel-like picture
frame, for your Victorian or 18th Century
fireside or bedroom. Choose it in pairs, prefer-
ably, and in fine Velvet — rose, blue, green or
lipstick red; single, $39.50; a pair, $77.00.
Or, in plain faille — rose, wine, blue or green ;
single— $34.50 ; a pair— $66.25. Check or
money order. (No C.O.D.) Express for 35
lbs. is collect. Button tufted seat and back;
coil spring seat. H. 32"; W. 23"; D. 26".
You'll enjoy our prompt attention and this
easy way of guaranteed shopping.
//MORE and MORE
you want LESS and LESS
try PAMELA GAY
ULTRA BRIEFS.
You'll wear them with
all your casual and for-
mal clothes!
BREATHLESS
Black or Nude Lace
$3.95
BAREST WHISPER
Yellow or Blue Sheei
$2.95
Send check with order
No C.O.D.'s accepted
We prepay all orders
Include hip size.
P,
54
ame
BOX 23-C
MELROSE 76, MASSACHUSETT
THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949
-
Buy tlie Easter Surprise dress at:
Davison-Paxon, Atlanta, Ga.
Furchgotts, Inc., Jacksonville, Fla.
Louella Shop, Bakersfield, Calif.
Mary Helen Shop, Palm Springs, Calif.
Younker Bros., Des Moines, Iowa
and other fine stores or write Jean Durain,
230 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 13
Fabric Tells the Fashion Story . . .
For little ladies. . .in Her Ladyship* Matelasse organdy,
Easter Egg frosted . . . glimpsed through the bright eyes
of Jean Durain. White on Iris blue, peppermint pink or
navy and all white. Size 3-6, under $8, 7-12, under $10.
JN . rluegelman & co., inc.
1412 Broadway, New YQrk 18, New York
g.U.S.Pat.Oft.
c
OH AM A* TOWN PAR
incomparable new worsted gabardine
It has a fluid, lively drape.
A rare bloom and smoothness.
And a gift for long long wear.
Townpar is an imported
tissue-weight thoroughbred
worsted wool with a new
luxuriousness for suits and
sports clothes, or by the yard.
*Rtg. U. S. Pat. Off. U A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Inc.
A MAGAZINE STYLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
(All FOR
PRICE 35 CENTS
MARCH, 1949
«,> O
A 6
vkH^cZc^riy
CO HAM A
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS, INC.
rfllinc-naves fashions
by IGOrV QUhOUUV of CALIFORNIA
Fresh as salt air. ..bright as breakers! Jean Durain
finds inspiration in the softly rolling waves of
the California shoreline, translates them into
easy-to-launder dresses and sun-clothes of Hope
Skillman's Sanforized, satin-striped chambray
and sail-white pique. Balboa Blue, Dawn Mauve,
Peach Ice Cream.
Sizes 3-6 Sizes 7-12
sun dress $6.95 $7.95
pique jacket 3.95 4.95
midriff blouse .... 1.75 1.95
skirt 4.95 5.95
At B. A/fmon & Co., New York; Marshall Field,
Chicago; Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia; Burdine's,
Inc., Miami; Yarings, Austin, Texas;
Pixie Town, Los Angeles.
OR WHITE
JEAN DURAIN • 230 SO. LOS ANGELES ST., LOS ANGELES 12, CALIFORNIA
Vol.7
No. 2
TH
scri
E CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc.. at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U. S. A. Yearly sub-
ption price $3.00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office, Los Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879
MARCH
1949
* ■■■ 7
AND FOUR TO GO," in tri-color checks
Four basic pieces to make fun of yotir summer, a weekender wardrobe in woven rayon,
including man-tailored jacket with skirt and pedal pushers in kelly-royal-white checks. Sno-
Silk blouse in your choice of these same colors. All in Bullock's Coordination Shop.
A Jery Grinel design from
(tfjfa
SIZES 10-18.
JACKET $17.95
SKIRT $14.95
BLOUSE $10.95
PEDAL PUSHERS $12.95
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
-31
MAN -tailored for
a short girl
marvelous new liosenblum
classic . . . snort jacket,
slightly elevated waistline,
tailored specially for
girls Jive feet four or under
. . . tailored with all the
marvelous Jttosenblum
mannerisms . . . easy drape,
beautljully-set shoulders,
hand-picked edges, pencil-
slim skirt. In stunning
100% virgin wool menswear
worsted ... in supero-
quality covert 55.00 . . .
doeskin flannel 45.00
. . . wool gabardine 49.95
. . . sizes 10 to 20. Other
marvelous Rosenblum
suits for average and tall
figures, the finest tailored
suits, the best tailored
suit values in America
. . . at Jine stores.
liosenblum, L,os Angeles
MAN ~ tailored in Calif orni
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
AVAILABLE AT
Ames, Iowa
TILDEN'S
Boston, Mass.
NEAL'S
Chico, Calif.
M. OSER'S
Chattanooga, Tenn.
MILLER BROS.
Charleston, W. Va.
COYLE & RICHARDSON
Cleveland, Ohio
HALLE BROS.
Detroit, Mich.
KLINE'S
Evansville, Ind.
HOFFMAN'S
Fresno, Calif.
GOTTSCHALK'S
Honolulu, Hawaii
BUNNY'S
Hutchinson, Kan.
GREENWALD'S
Indianapolis, Ind.
WM. H. BLOCK
Jamestown, N. Y.
BIGELOW'S
Nashville, Tenn.
GRACE'S
New York, N. Y.
FRANKLIN SIMON
Omaha, Neb.
FRED & CLARK HAAS
Portland, Ore.
CHAS. F. BERG
Sacramento, Calif.
HALE BROS.
St. Louis, Mo.
KLINE'S
San Francisco, Calif.
HALE BROS.
San Jose, Calif.
HALE BROS.
Seattle, Wash.
BEST'S APPAREL
South Bend, Ind.
WORTH'S
Tyler, Texas
MAYER & SCHMIDT
Vicksburg, Miss.
THE STYLE SHOP
Youngstown, Ohio
LIVINGSTON'S
"the topper" of the season: by Sport-Lane of California
NOTE THESE FEATURES
Here's the coat sensation of spring ... a swing jacket you'll love
to wear with skirts, slacks or suits. It's a talk-making plaid in vivid
hues of red, green, rust or blue, sizes 10-18. Under $_LT.0U
• YOKE AND SLEEVE LINING
• FULL SWING BACK
• BEAUTIFULLY MATCHED PLAIDS
• 100% VIRGIN WOOL
For further details w r i t e JANE TAYLOR 9 4 5 South Los Angeles Street, LOS ANGELES
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
With this sure-fire
Blue-Ribbon Winning
£>fZ4/lt in
bytg^ Crown
CROWN MFG. CO.
PAWTVCKET r.i.
A skirt with a tremendous fashion
significance, cut from this won-
derful fabric in true tropical
weight. 40% wool and 60%
rayon CRUISE-COOL in a soft
plaid. High button-up pocket and
button tab at front hemline. Sub-
le shades of BROWN . . . GRAY
. . BLUE. Sizes 22 to 30.
Winner of Blue Ribbon Award for Skirts
860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14.
THE C All FO RN I AN, March, 1949
THE NEW MAM'ZELLE IN HALF SIZES!
&ca<aJe c^cxfrtz&f &€
Jtaei fafr.
the new MAM'ZELLE
,<**•"• ' \
(
Made in
AeczJtMk
— not just four basic cups — but 7 in all sizes
( a - A >/2 - B- B Vi -C -CV2 - DK
Especially if you're an "in-between" size, you can
now find a Mam'zelle to fit you perfectly . . . give you
perfect contour molding — without alterations.
No custom made brassiere could fit you better.
Designed by Madame Suzanne Redares, famous
Parisian corsetiere, Mam'zelle incorporates the
patented "Cross-Lift" construction and bias cup that
" make it the most beautiful, most flattering
and best fitting brassiere.
Mam'zelle's lovely fabrics are guaranted pre-shrunk.
You can't "wash out" the shape of a Mam'zelle.
Visit One off These Many Fine Stores Today
for a MAM'ZELLE FITTING
In all colors and materials:
from $2.50 to $5.00
//
MAM'ZELLE BRASSIERES, 6558 Santa Monica Boulevard, Hollywood 38, California
Afc
BL
0/2
THE CALIFORNIAN, Morch, 1949
Buffums
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
^T
■9 *
gives the bolero
suit a new line — the trim,
cupped-in bolero above
a stem slim skirt! Rayon faille
Navy, grey, green, red.
Sizes 9 to 15. $10.95
MAIL ORDERS
Plus. 254% stale sales lax
Buffums' Young Californian Shop
•Keg. U S Pal Oil.
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
dnHBHHHj
DUTCH GIRL l7tf/
FROST SPUN LINEN
Stolen from the California sun,
the softest pastels and natural
colors ... in this exclusive
Dutch Girl linen yarn. It's ideal
for fine knitting of spring and
summer dresses and suits.
Lightweight, pleasing to the
touch and delightful to the eye.
At better department stores and yarn shops,
or write direct
the ftridgetOH Co., inc.
620 SOUTH MAIN STREET
LOS ANGELES 14, CALIFORNIA
LOOK FOR THE &&tc& $&d LABEL
. ..YOUR ASSURANCE OF QUALITY
It's Fun To Decorate
FABRICS— CHINA— LEATHER with
ALL-CRAFT Permanent Colors
NOW you can easily add
dramatic, colorful charm
to any material with this
big, exciting kit of per-
manent colors. You can
handpaint ties and
scarves, monogram
blouses, turn inexpensive
glassware, bric-a-brac in-
to_ lovely gifts and show-
pieces! Colors go
smoothly on any surface
; — are bright, fast-dry-
ing, washable, blendable,
sunfast, scratchproof !
Simple directions show
you how to bring new
life to lamps, shades,
table linens, make colorful vases from old bot-
tles, add decorator's charm to a breakfast nook
or complete nursery!
EACH ALL-CRAFT KIT CONTAINS:
2 iars Red, Yellow, Blue, Extender; J Black, White,
Green, Glaze — 6 Stencils — Instructions and De-
signs — Stencil & Freehand Brushes! ONLY ....
$3.50 POSTPAID
Efch Lovely Designs On Glass In Ten Minutes!
GLASS ETCHING KIT
You'll be amazed how easily you can etch any
type of glass with this remarkable new kit !
Process is simple — takes only minutes ! Follow
the simple, ABC directions and you'll achieve
dramatic frosted effects — etch graceful designs and
monograms on mirrors, trays, bowls, etc. — make
a set of ordinary glassware look like "Fifth
Avenue" !
CONTENTS: Large Tube Etching Cream, I
Jar Asphaltum, J4 Pint Turpentine, 2 Camel
Hair Brushes, Instructions & Designs.
$2.00 POSTPAID
Money Back Guarantee! C.OD.'s Plus Postage.
Send Orders To:
HOMECRAFTS
DEPT C-3 • 799 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 3, N. Y.
_ -. ii.-- ' " ' "~~
t
^
■
.__
*ww M|i
HIGH HAT HAM . . . ancient rules fc
making Smithfield ham are set by Virgin:
law, protecting the name "Smithfield" fro:
use by imitators. This aristocrat of the dinn
table must be peanut-fed razorback pig, cure
smoked and aged by a 300-year-old formul
Genuine Smithfield ham, correctly prepare
by old plantation recipe, beautifully garnisl
ed and baked to golden brown with suga
spices and frequent bastings with Sautern
is offered by Colony Ham Co., Inc., 505 Fla
iron Bldg., Norfolk, Va., in 8 to 12 pour
sizes at $1.95 per pound, postage $1.00 (51
per ham extra West of Miss.
AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADER . .
saves your eyes and your patience! This ne
Thread-A-Matic, durable plastic with prec
sion steel mechanism, enables you to threa
needles with one finger, in a few second
It threads needles from 3 to 9, thread froi
36 to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerizi
To simplify sewing, and an ideal gift fc
Mother's Day and Easter, Thread-A-Matic :
just $2.95 plus 10c postage. Guarantee, fu
instructions and gift box are included. Sen
check or money order (no C.O.D.'s, please
to Whitlew Sales Co., 2186 Noble Roa.
Cleveland 12, Ohio.
TAILORED LIPS ... by Charles Murea
is a combination lipstick brush you'll adon
A fine sable brush, fountain lipstick coi
tainer (holds an entire lipstick refill an
uses every bit ! ) and perfume dispenser, a
in this attractive gold-plated tube just 4
tall! Simple classic design, of finest mati
rials, made with precision workmanship. Fi
Mother's Day and Easter gifts, for your pun
and dresser. Guaranteed, just $5.00 plus 13
tax in Calif., 15c in Los Angeles. The Ma
gorita Shop, 1018 S. Main St., Los Angele
15, Calif.
GOLDEN GLITTERS ... or Silver Shee
are these exquisite stockings of Willys <
Hollywood. Featuring clocks and darts of 2'
karat gold or sterling silver, applied wit
Changold — washable, durable. 15-denier Di
Pont nylon, seamed or seamfree; sandalfoo
semisandal or conventional. In rich '49ei
colors: pay dirt; gold dust: mica brow
rose quartz: red earth: shovel tan. For Easte
street-wear and dress . . . sizes 8 to 11, cu
torn-made, $8.95 the pair. At May Co. Wi
shire, Los Angeles: Carson's, Chicago: I
Altman. New York. Or write Willys of Holl;
wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Cali
TRAVELMAID . . . designed for your ow
selection of cosmetics and overnight need
Travelmaid swings lightly overarm, pad
easily within a larger case. Fitted with plasti
jars, boxes, two bottles, and pockets for vol
nightwear. Skinner's black nylon faille wit
waterproof blue nylon lining. 91/£"xll1/4"x3'
weighs only 18 oz. Use as bag. zip open thre
sides to lie flat, hang by handles inside ou
$14.95 plus 20% tax. Marston's, San Diego
Lichtenstein's. Corpus Christi : Robinson'
Los Angeles: Best's Apparel, Seattle. Or wril
Travelmaid, 3831 Ingersoll, Des Moines, low;
1
10
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 194
TO
«
111
X3TIOIN DISPENSER . . . most ingenious
roduct of the year. At last, a practical dis-
enser for hand lotion, baby oil, suntan lotion
you*ll find it a must for bedroom, bath,
ilchen and beach. A touch of the button,
nd out pops just enough lotion, without fuss
r mess. The durable plastic dispenser holds
large supply, and is most attractively styled.
•nyx. pink or blue, just S1.98 postpaid (plus
c tax in Calif., 6c in Los Angeles). Send
our order to Alvin Enterprises, Dept. C, 509
lorth Fairfax, Hollywood 36, Calif.
:OOLIE PAJAMAS . . . beautifully styled
an authentic oriental manner. Frog clos-
gs are a feature of the free-fitting jacket.
rousers are perfectly tailored. Designed for
tdoor living, gardening, housework, or just
bunging about. There's a wide array of lovely
| plors — pink, green, blue, red, etc. And you
I pay choose trousers to match, or in black.
I 111 are fast colors that wash perfectly. Small,
I (ledium or large, $9.95. Add 2y2% sales
B in Calif., 3% in San Francisco. Send
I Iheck. money order or C.O.D. to R. L. Fuerst,
111 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, Calif.
J.ITTLE FIRE FIGHTER . . . keeps little
I jlazes from growing big. "Hero" Fire Ex-
1 (nguisher shoots an 18-foot fighting stream
lust by a pull of the handle. It smothers
llasoline, paint, oil, wood and other kinds
| if flames. Needs no inspection. No refilling.
t'ways ready for use. You'll want the "Hero"
r the feeling of safety it gives, and you'll
ant it in your home, garage, car, boat and
Gee. 3 for $3.80—6 for $7.50. Write Ham-
lacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th St., New
jrk 22, New York.
U-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . sewed
iroughout with 100% nylon thread, finished
nth nylon tape, and nylon elastic garters,
'his power net smooth-fitting girdle dries
n four short hours, fits so well that squirming
nd yanking are things of the past ... no
■ealing seam-lines under slickest dresses.
.u'll have smoother, prettier hip lines for
faster with this Su-Z Girdle. Step-in (shown)
r pantie (short or medium legs). Black, nude,
r white, postpaid just $10.95. Send meas-
rements of your waist, tummy, thigh, over-
11 weight, and height to Su-Z, 2920 W. Ver-
on Ave., Los Angeles 43, Calif.
HJTCH GIRL POUCH . . . year's clever-
st innovation in a knitting bag, simulated
lligator with durable metallic lining and
ransparent lucite top . . . you can find every-
ling easily and show off your bag's con-
:nts! Wonderful with sportswear, an in-
enious beach bag, handy for lunches, too.
his versatile Dutch Girl pouch, in red. green,
rown or black. 8". $2.50 postpaid: 14",
a.00 postpaid. Add 2V2% sales tax in Calif.,
% in Los Angeles. At department stores
nd yarn shops. Or write The Bridgeton Co.,
20 South Main, Los Angeles 14, Calif.
HE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
I1V APPOINTMENT
VL1 i TO II.M KINO OEOHOI •■'
J. AS. 1
vrill.L-T >IIOP IN IftJl
OLOGNES with the traditional
English bouquet, created exquisitely
by Atkinsons of Bond Street,
can now be bought at the finer shops.
GOLD MEDAL
EAV DE COLOGNE
ENGLISH
LAVENDER
ATKINSONS
iMPosrco »v
PAUL K. RANDAtL
299 MADISON AVt.. NEW YORK 17, ft T.
Second Edition of
California Cooks
By Helen Evans Brown
A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex-
clusively in THE CALIFORNIAN.
Recipes. Menus. Articles on cookery. But NOT a
cook book. Rather a book on California cuisine.
A distinguished cuisine influenced by the Missions,
by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by California vine-
yards and citrus groves, by the desert, by the
Spanish fiesta days, by patio living and barbecues,
by picnicking in California, by the seashore and by
the lavish days of old San Francisco.
Kumauat Marmalade . . Napa Kidney Saute . .
Spaghetti Ventura . . Potio Salad . . Barracuda San
Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . . California Almond
Sauce . . Fresno Fritters . . Ojai Orange Sauce
for Duckl
It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READING
— GOOD COOKINGI
SEND FOR YOUR COPIES TODAY
$1.00
POSTPAID
The first edition sold out completely. This one is
greatly enlarged. Has a new cover — in color. Makes
a smart gift!
To: THE CALIFORNIAN
1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of CALIF0 RN IA COO KS
to:
(Name)
(Address)
(City, State and Zone)
Enclosed is payment for □ copies at $1 each.
u
Now it's SHANTUNG...
glorious...
luxurious
Rayon Shantung
The dress that will steal the show everywhere . . .
perfect to the last eye-catching detail,
from the four shining buttons marching betwee
double pleats, to the pressed-to-the-hem
pleat of the skirt.
In Calishan ... an acetate and rayon
Shantung, custom converted in
California by
^mlmms^
<§0h
Style No. 898: Sizes 9 to 15, naturally
Colors: Sunshine Gold, Misty Pink, Locust Tan,
Navy, Natural, Ocean Aqua
About $15.00
12
910 SOUTH LOS ANGELES STREE
LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNI,
FOR STORE NEAREST YOU SEE PAGE 53
OR WRITE US FOR STORE IN YOUR CITl
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
t:max kopp dresses 818 s. bdwy., los angeles 14, California
ft*
Produced by Helen Kopp
you in the new Empire
silhouette with slenderizing
clipped waistline in back,
sparked with two coy bows.
Fine rayon crepe in Black,
Navy, Sandstone-beige,
Canyon-rose, Willow-
green, Blue-sky or Sutter's
gold. Sizes 10 to 18. Style
#20/.. .To
Retail at 29.95
introducing wonderful California sandstone colors!
See page 53 for store nearest you.
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
13
Now being featured at these and other fine stores:
BULLOCK'S — Los Angeles GRACE CAMPBELL SHOPS — San Francisco
COOPER'S DEPARTMENT STORE — Fresno MARSTON'S — San Diego
DENVER DRY GOODS COMPANY — Denver OLDS, WORTMAN & KING — Portland
FREDERICK AND NELSON — Seattle PARK BISHOP SURGICAL CO. — El Paso
14
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 194
3
=
2
£W rfl£ COVER:
Ken Sutherland's sunshine
suits, exquisitely tailored
. . . cool and fresh as an
ocean breeze! Shining
pearl button accents, and
the suit at right has either
short or long sleeves. Sizes
10-20, each is about $S0
at J. J. Haggarty, Los An-
geles. Hats are by Agnes.
Ailuj gloves. Tom Binford
color photograph.
fa
fa
fa
9
X
e
fa
m
fa
<
fa
B
X
S
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
I Assistant publisher wniiom J. Bowen
:ASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
:ASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MANAGING EDITOR Alice Carey
rtEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf
t-ASHIONS Jacquelin Lory
Edie Jones
Margaret Paulson
MATURES __ Helen Ignatius
Hazel Allen Pulling
I ART Morris Ovsey
John Grandjean
Anne Harris
Jane Christiansen
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
CHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
j:OOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
California fashions
Mid-Seasoning 16
The Rustle Of Spring Is In Fabrics 18
Summer Circles 20
Circle For Fun Spots 22
Long And Short Of It 24
Going In Circles 26
Endearing Cottons 28
Round And Round You Go 30
In The Social Whirl 32
Sewing Circles 34
Sweet, Soft, Sultry 36
Pattern Of Spring Is In New Prints 38
Coke-Set Charmers 40
One Playsuit Makes A Dozen 43
Dressing Room Gossip 44
Think About Accessories 46
California living
Calla Lilies For Easter Decor 47
A House Pattern For The World 48
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 50
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager,
370 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExingrton 2-9+70; San Francisco Office, Leonard
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & Associates,
21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West Grand
Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; $5.08 two
years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United
States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as second class
matter January 25, 19+6, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under act of March,
1879. Copyright 19+9 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Reproduction in whole
or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
First bright flash of spring, and what better than shan-
tung to interpret your new lighthearted mood? Such a
versatile choice, it looks equally well with rich suedes
and fine leather accessories now . . . with the wonderful
fabrics, patents, and kids of summer shoe-and-bag ward-
robes. Ken Sutherland foursome captures the mood.
Above, in natural rayon shantung, classic suit, about
$35: square-neck daytimer, about $35.
MID-SEASONING:
16
SPRING TO SUMMER
For the world-ly traveller, the sophisticate at home . . .
again it's the quality touch of shantung! Here Ken
Sutherland uses Cohama's pure silk in the mid-seasonal
print with easy side fullness, its scroll pattern in cop-
per, sapphire, or emerald tones; about $50 . . . the
versatile suit-dress in brilliant jewel tones, with triple
tab interest; about $50. All four fashions are in sizes
]0-20, at J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles.
17
A
The Rustle of Spring is in Fabrics, Too
For high fashion moments, the whisper of silks and the soft shine of elegant fabrics! In a season when
wonderful new materials abound, we find these interpretations outstanding: above, Don Loper's version of
the increasingly important costume dress ... a Regency breakaway coat with separate skirt, in pure silk
serge; iridescent black rose or black pearl. At White House. San Francisco; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas.
Opposite, Marusia's deft handling of a brand new fabric, silk taffeta shantung in glorious spring colors;
decisively simple with epaulet sleeves and high jutting collar. Saks. Beverly Hills; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas.
18
summer circles . . . frienc
trips and widening horizons, ser
beyond your own . . . clothes
ripples of excitement that mean
sewing circles, family circles anc
memorate the wedding vows of 1
then, like a pebble cast in qi
wear that made the biggest splash when previewed in the
sun . . . will set in motion fashion trends to influence summer
wardrobes. Here we bring you golden nuggets from California
collections for your circles in the sun. Cottons, sheer and
frotfiM as a valentine: organdies and laces, voiles and fine
batistes . . . cool rayons and linen. And for daily fare . . .
batik, chambray, terry, and luminous materials. Skirts are
slim and slightly shorter, or they fall in tier-and-tier of ever
widening fullness. Shorts are brief, or longer ''walkers":
pedal pusher pants below the knee. Summer casuals, soft and
ladylike . . . blouses to enhance a summer suit, or ;'go with"
favorite skirts. Designer tricks to change a basic dress. These
are the hints we bring you now of things you'll want in sum-
mer's wardrobe.
CIRCLE
THESE
FOR THE FUN
SPOTS
OF SUMMER
Here are old friends you'll want with you
finest resorts (or to make fun of days in your ov
back yard I . . . cottons in playful mood. Lejt,
Louella Ballerino's flowered Ameritex cotton bloomer
playsuit. sizes 10-16. about $15 at B. Altman.
New York: Bullock's, Los Angeles. Right, F. B. Horgan's
batik play set, sizes 12-20; coat about $8. shorts and halter
about $6. Opposite page, left, the beloved wool
cardigan sweater, this time dramatically faced with polka
dots to match, by Barbara Barondess MacLean, at
Joseph Home, Pittsburgh; Meier & Frank. Portland.
Right, De De Johnson's newest printed terry cloth robe
of a California Hand Print; sizes 10-18, about
JACK MUHS
^fe
TOM BINFORD
MARY HEWS
GRAFF MFG. CO.
THE LONG and Short of it:
ROYAL OF CALIFORNIA
We're famous for our active sportswear, and since the days of levi's
we have had finest slacks (and then shorts) in the country. This year
is a Bonanza . . . we've long tapered slacks, sharply tailored, with
many plus-extras in fashion news; we've little-boy boxer shorts,
cuffed and crisp, zippered or neatly placketed. But something new
has come with the years, starting with clam diggers . . . now we call 'ej
pedal pushers . . . and the long shorts, called Bermuda pants or
British walkers. Something else has been added, too . . . and that's
fabric variety. Today you can find California classic tailoring
or novelty designs in fabrics from denims to sharkskins and batiks;
from sharp white pique to checks, plaids, tweeds and cords.
On these pages we start our long-and-short story with
a series in Stonecutter Cord, by Royal of California, left;
in tweedy cotton from Reliable Textiles, by Graff.
Opposite page, a representative selection . . . choose your own!
4^i,
WFSTFRN FASHIONS
V \
JUNIOR MISS OF CALIFORNIA
\
7 A N D A WAICO GARMENT CO.
DE DE JOHNSON
/
CASUAL TIME
■J
"=5»
ROBERTS MFG CO.
WESTERN FASHIONS
INTERNATIONAL SPORTSWEAR
=^3 \\ JCOHN-GOLDWAT
ER
YOU'LL BE GOING
IN CIRCLES
Skirts are in tiers, and you will be, too . . .
for the most-evident trend of recent months
is skirts that fall in ever-widening ruffles,
tier-on-tier and often even color-on-color.
Above, Addie Master's scoop
in Bates cotton print, tiers accented
by ric-rac; sizes 10-18, about $35,
at Bullock's. Pasadena. Stix Baer & Fuller.
St. Louis. Right, Marjorie Montgomery's
circle-tiered sundress with boned bodice;
sizes 10-16. about $18 at Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh:
J. L. Hudson, Detroit.
EVA KASDAY
h
A complete circle patio skirt in
varying hues of cotton tiers from
dan of California. Sizes 10-18. blouse
irt about S18 at Bullock's. Los Angeles.
12
EVA KASDAY
JACK MUHS
ENDEARING COTTON
You'll be a sun-shiner by day. romantic at night
in cottons! Opposite page, left, stark white
|>ii|ue sundress, pretty enough to wear dancing:
Roval of California: sizes 10-20. about $20
at J. ^ . Robinson. Los Angeles. Right, a
Miss Hollywood. Jr. orisinal by Waldo, to be worn
many ways . . . eyelet jacket and skirt with
ilack taffeta bodice and skirt . . . wear strap-
less black bodice and swirling skirt as your basic
stume. then add eyelet jacket, then eyelet skirt!
Sizes 9-15, about $35 for eyelet. $18 for taffeta.
77ns page, iridescent chambray. another hit of
the season, is mitred and tucked into a young charmer.
by Linsk of California: sizes 9-15. about $15.
These are clothes we like for themselves, and because
they lend grace to so many occasions: with change
of accessories they change their pace, too
these cottons with two-fold charms.
AS 'ROUND AND 'ROUND YOU GO
California classics with sunshine touches ... to wear
all day and any day: left, young freshness in butcher linen
frock by Clare, sizes 12-20. about $9 at The Emporium.
San Francisco. Right, Lawson of California, satin
striped cotton, sizes 10-18. about $17 at
Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago; Buffums', Long Beach.
1
»> a
Nx
-o
x
o oa |
JACK MUHS
EVA KASDAY
Stripes go 'round, too . . . above, Blair's dress of Textron
cotton; sizes 10-16. under S25 at Bullock's, Los Angeles.
Below, Marbert's town cotton, sizes 10-20, about $30.
Right, Irene Bury's crepe shirtwaist dress, sizes 10-20 at
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines.
29
I N
THE SOCIAL WHIRL
There's news in skirts this season . . skirts slim, staccato or miraculously
full . . left, Agnes Barrett's dress in Bates poplin with peplum that may
be used as cape; sizes 10] 6. about $23. Below, Pat Premo's Fluegelman
frosted organdie dress with gentle skirt fullness; sizes 10-18, about $50.
EVA KASDAY
Western Fashions corded chambray blouse and skirt
with vest and shorts (not shown), sizes 10-18, about $22
for all four at J. J. Haggarty's, Los Angeles, above.
Linen dress, right, with two-way belt (try a scarf
instead of narrow belt)
sizes 10-18, about $45
by House of Meredith,
%
/ ■ xt
V,f 4 (\<f
FASHION TIPS
%f»j^
>
*':
,v\ i
IV
4 A
Sewing
Exquisite detail, an unusual and striking use of ac-
cessories, a flair for color and fabric are the fashion
coups which have established Edith Head of Para-
mount Pictures as a brilliant designer. This collec-
tion of sketches contains a parcel of tricks that lend
sparkle to the wardrobes of such stars as Betty
Hutton. Veronica Lake, Mona Freeman, Wanda Hen-
drix. (1) romantic slipper satin evening gown, jetl
beading across bosom, black velvet dust ruffle and
gloves; (2) lovely Directoire evening gown in gros-
grain. taffeta ruffle on skirt and jacket; (3) remov-
able panels in different fabrics or colors, attached to
a belt; (4) overskirt of ribbons; (5) pink slipper
HP
: -
i ■
nit
BY EDITH HEAD
i ■
Circles
pannier over slim black jersey; (6) sable choker,
lined with satin to form tube for ribbons; (7) Di-
rectoire tiered evening coat, slipper satin or taffeta :
(8) black velvet evening vest, jeweled embroidery:
(8a) red flannel side-fastened vest, triple pockets:
(8b) French butler vest; (9) red faille bib, em-
broidered in gold and pearls; (10) jeweled pins on
ivy leaf; (11) emblems, orders, or family crests on
compact lids; (12) plaid wool house "greatcoat.'"
jersey slacks; (13) cuff links on gloves; (14) and
(15) terry cloth robe, towel ascot; tennis cardigan:
(16) and (17) sleeveless reversible jacket and coat:
(18) velveteen undershirt; reversible stole.
v
mm
%®
eet or bold, with new and appealing
klines, your spring blouse is so lovely
will enhance the beauty of your suit
you can wear it as a separate with
skirts in your wardrobe. Opposite page,
nure batiste yoke waist by Arlene of Hollywood ;
e ruffled broadcloth by Na-Ma Blouse.
is page, left to right, caballero
rt with adjustable French cuffs: Palmdayl;
in check chambray classic by Hendan ;
lylike crepe with lattice insert, Deauville Models;
A the plunging neckline favorite of Tailor Maid.
Spring
Is In
New Prints
Rich beauty of prints to blend with the new sparkle that is spring . . . Alluring lines in a Max Kopp creation, above . . .
front drapery forms two pockets . . . tiny buttons are subtle decorative details. Sizes 10-18. About $30. See page 52 for stores.
Peggy Hunt creates a refreshingly simple dress, opposite left, to accent to the full a unique print of swirling scrolls. Sizes
8-18. About $60. At Best's Apparel, Seattle; Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. Strikingly dramatic flower cascades on a
graceful, exciting halter-neck dress that leaves shoulders bare to the sun, by Andree Gay, opposite right. May be worn
with jacket or without. Sizes 8-18. Under $45. J. W. Robinson. Los Angeles; Peggy's Shop, San Francisco.
38
:
TOM BINFORD
39
Smooth . . . and right for you sub-teens. Jean Durain makes
these in Everfast scalloped effect cotton.
Opposite page, striking school and "coke-date" dress, about $13. This page left, sundress
with gathered bodice, about $11. Choose a white pique jacket to change,
about $6. Right, midriff top . . . again with gathered bodice and stark white shorts, about $10. All in
sub-teen sizes 10 to 14 at J. W. Robinson. Los Angeles; Burdines, Miami: and Goldwater's, Phoenix.
41
Skirts that hit just the right note for your summer merry-go-rounds: Preview Sportswear introduces
two new style innovations in the exciting new Minx, by California Fabric Co., with soft luxurious richness
and satin back finish. Double tuck treatment to mold a pretty hipline, or an ingenious back-wrap . . .
in winter white or toast, sizes 22-30, about $9. For stores see page 53. Shown with Palmdayl dark blouse accents.
42
ONE PLAYSUIT
MAKES A DOZEN!
Newest fashion fun for the teen-age crowd . . . this convertible playsuit
in batik washable cotton print, by Miss Pat of California.
It's a bloomer playsuit with attached wide sash which may be wrapped
into halter or bra top bodice (or turned around for bare midriff effect!)
You'll think of so many more ways to drape it . . . and with matching
skirt it looks like a dress! Here's your boon companion for vacation days.
to wear from sun-up till the dancing hours. Sizes 10-16.
The set, about $9 at Halle Bros.. Cleveland.
Right, Miss Pat bloomer playsuit, its wide sash wrapped
bodice-like with the new bare-shoulder look; above, turned
around, playsuit reveals bare midriffs; below, with skirt
added, it looks like a dress. Add blouse if desired !
•/
/
S"~-
Gossip from the dressing
room ranks these underfashions
first. Opposite page left,
sun or swim print bra and
shorts; Renee of Hollywood. Right,
nylon leno girdle, Su-z. Below,
tulip construction bra; Anne Alt.
This page above, Damsel of
Hollywood satin and leno girdle.
Below, maternity bra by
Cordelia of Hollywood.
A
i \
What do you think about accessories? Do
you fully enjoy the challenge of select-
ing handbags and shoes that not only are
right in color, type and fabric for a par-
ticular ensemble . . . but actually enhance
its becomingness? Here's a chance to ex-
press your own individuality, in shoes
just a little bit different ... a conversa-
tional new cut, or maybe a refreshing
color accent. Above, Vic Colton gives you
"Marimba," a cross-strap flattie for play-
time; "Intermezzo," one-strap cutout for
casual wardrobes; and "Ariosa" ankle-
strap flat with double toe buckles. In
suede or calf. Below, Ted Saval's day-to-
night steppers: "Crosscountry" wedge with
triple strap, in suede and calf; evening
sandal with cutout ankle strap, wedge, in
bronze-gold kid; a delicate shirred suede
pump • And handbags can make you
feel dashing and carefree if they're bold
in design, with plenty of room for belong-
ings. Like these by Frank Emmett: above,
"Three Musketeers," three sizes in fine
cowhide; "Sportster," a casual style in elk;
"Cavalier," swashbuckling closing detail.
PATTERN FOR THE WORLD
Redwood, flagstone entranceway
Here is the house J. R. Davidson built for the young Joseph Kingsleys in Pacific
Palisades, Santa Monica. It embodies so many of his principles of streamlined
living, we present it in a picture-story. Overlooking the blue Pacific, with an eight-
foot partly open roof overhang to take care of the bright California sunshine (and
cast interesting shadows on the flagstoned terrace below!) ... it serenely fulfills
its purpose.
From inviting redwood entranceway into the spacious living room with its
entire wall of 12-foot glass panels which slide open across combined living- and
dining-room areas to facilitate outdoor living . . . there is a feeling of carefree
family living, easy hospitality. Dove blue walls of hall extend into living room,
contrasting with pale yellow walls and ceiling of living and dining room, and a
diffused glass screen separates these two units. Bedroom wing is oriented toward
south and east, while a small den is across the hall from the living room . . . away
from the spectacular view, occasional change for intimate evening hours.
Fireplace corner; glass screen
Built - in dressing table detail
Indoor-outdoor dining optional
Approaching the walls of glass
===-===7lI=s=f=5r=llIfIfllfllf|||i|#====!
'"::;::- "'«,":,",. ■'"■>
-".':«:■- !:t™«' '«&:».
. ;r:?:;s"B! ■: : ■■"«!.
iij '525;!" * . ill'; •■■■».
LENTEN DISHES OF FISHES:
WHEN A FAST IS A FEAST.
California
In California we make big whoopee at the Pasadena Rose
Tournament, at the Santa Barbara Fiesta, and at the Lodi Wine
Festival, but we don't do a thing about Mardi Gras, and I
think we should. Not as a last fling before the Lenten fast
begins, but rather as a celebration of the wonderful fish meals
that lie ahead. Here we have hundreds of miles of coast line
from which we harvest all manner of sea food, from the tiny
pilchard (which changes its name to sardine when it takes up
residence in a can ) to the gigantic black sea bass ; from the
hundred-to-a-pint Olympia oyster to the huge five or six-pound
geoduck (gooey-duck) clam. We have superb sea food restaur-
ants from the Mexican to the Oregon borders, including the
famed Fisherman's Wharves of San Francisco and Monterey,
and we have cooks of every nationality who have brought their
expert knowledge of cookery to add extra charm to California's
renowned cuisine. No wonder we love fish!
Abalone — that huge shellfish that is so jealously guarded in
California that it may not be shipped from the state — has not
always had such popularity. The earliest Californian cook
books in my possession make no mention of them, and as late
as 1914, Mr. Clarence Edwords, in his now much-sought-after
book "Bohemian San Francisco" gives them a brush-off by
saying that though they were in vogue among the Chinese and
though one famous San Francisco restaurant made a specialty
of them, "it takes sentiment to say that one finds anything
extra good in them." Poor Mr. Edwords! I can't help but
believe that that lover of good food had never had them
properly cooked.
FRIED ABALONE
Purchase the abalone steaks ready to cook, or — if you've
acquired some as they come from the briny — pry them out of
the shells, cut off all the dark meat, then cut out the white
part into slices and pound — but gently — until they are very
soft. Dry them and drop in slightly beaten egg and then in
fine seasoned crumbs. Fry quickly in hot butter, not more than
a minute or two on a side. Don't try to brown them well — if
you do they'll be overcooked and tough. Serve simply, with
lemon. That's abalone for you: easy to cook if you know how!
Don't let anyone tell you that sculpin isn't good to eat. This
rosy pink fish that grunts with annoyance when it is caught,;
and which is well armed with formidable spines, has a delicate
flesh and matchless flavor. The Japanese cook it to perfection,!
as I discovered when it was served to us by the charming Mary
Serisawa, wife of the prominent artist, Sueo Serisawa. This is
her recipe:
BROILED SCULPIN WITH SESAME SEEDS
Have the fish split down the back enough so that it may be
opened out flat, but don't allow the head to be removed unless
you want to miss the best part. Mash a clove of garlic with a
teaspoon of salt and rub it on the fish. Allow to stand about
one-half hour, then put it, skin side down, on a well oiled pan
and under a hot broiler. When the fish begins to brown, start
basting it with the following sauce which is enough for two
fish: mash two cakes of soy bean cheese (Fu-Yu) or — if that's
too exotic for you — two tablespoons of Roquefort or bleu
cheese. Add two tablespoons of soy sauce (now available any-
where in the country), two tablespoons of sugar, and 3 table-
spoons of whiskey, white wine, sake, sherry, or brandy. When
the fish is quite brown sprinkle lavishly with sesame seeds and
allow them to get very brown. Turn and repeat the same
performance on the other side. Serve with thick slices of
unpeeled orange. Mrs. Serisawa presented the oranges in an
enormous white fluted shell — a lovely sight, surpassed only
by the flavor of the fish.
Scallops, though not commercially valuable on the Pacific
Coast, are none the less found in our waters and in our markets.
Like abalone, they cannot stand overcooking.
SCALLOPS EN BROCHETTE, ALAMITOS
Dip scallops in melted butter and string them on skewers,
alternating with partially cooked squares of bacon and saute
mushroom caps. Put under a very hot broiler and cook a couple
of minutes on one side. Turn, do the other side, and serve at
once with lemon, crisp shoestring potatoes, and broccoli with
Hollandaise sauce or spinach.
Albacore is the most highly valued of the tuna tribe because
its meat is white — if that makes any more sense than does any
other color differential. (Me, I like my meat dark, be it the
second joint of a chicken, the all of a guinea hen, the neck
50
of a turkey. I It's a game fish. too. and as deep sea fishermen
abound on California waters, it's nice to know how to cook
one. just in case . . .
BAKED ALBACORE
Stuff an albacore or. if it is too large, spread some stuffing
between two "steaks." Use either a plain bread stuffing seasoned
with your favorite herbs, or add chopped cucumbers, chestnuts,
oysters, mushrooms, or bacon to it. Put it in a hot oven, and
when it begins to brown baste it with a mixture of one part
of white wine and one part of melted butter. Bake from thirty
minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the fish. Serve
with the juices in the pan.
The Mexicans, who have given so much to California
cookery, have an easy cold sauce that is delicious on any
simply prepared white fish:
MEXICAN SALSA FOR FISH
Mix together two cups of chopped peeled tomatoes and one
cup each of chopped green pepper and onion. Add a teaspoon
of salt, some fresh black pepper, a quarter-cup of olive oil.
and, if you wish, a dash of cayenne. Serve very cold on very
hot fish.
The Mexicans have a way of sousing or marinating fish that,
because it is usually served cold, is particularly delightful on
a hot summer's day. It may be done with any firm-fleshed fish,
though sea bass seems a particularly happy choice.
ESCABECHE DE PESCADO
Drown two filets of fish in a little butter and arrange them
carefully on a flat dish. Pour over a sauce made by combining
a quarter-cup of oil. a tablespoon of vinegar, two tablespoons
Cooks
By Helen Evans Brown
of orange juice, a teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a table-
spoon of the zest of an orange (the very outside orange part
of the skin) cut in slivers, a tablespoon of minced green onions,
and two tablespoons of minced green peppers. Let stand six
or eight hours, turning once or twice. Serve very cold, gar-
nished with sliced oranges.
Another way to do filet of sea bass, or any other filet for
that matter, is:
FILET OF BASS, DEL MAR
Put a filet of fish on a well buttered baking dish, sprinkle
with salt and fresh ground pepper, and spread with a mixture
of one-half cup of finely minced mushrooms and the same
amount of minced green peppers. Pour over a cup of white
wine (or half wine and half fish stock) and bake in a moderate
oven, basting occasionally. (And I do hope you have one of
those glass basters — the kind that looks like a giant eye
dropper; they're invaluable.) When the fish is done, pour off
the juices in the pan, reduce them by one half, add a half cube
of butter and a tiny pinch of sweet basil. Melt, and pour over
the fish before serving.
OYSTERS ALBION
Butter the insides of your baking shells and arrange two or
three oysters on each, depending on the fit. Over the oysters
spread a sauce made in this manner: mince very fine a bunch
| of green onions using all but the tough part of the leaves.
Add a quarter of a pound of butter, melted, two tablespoons
of pureed spinach (the frozen kind will save lots of work!),
a half-cup of cracker crumbs, a half-teaspoon of salt, some
I pepper, and a half-teaspoon of powdered tarragon (or better
I yet, that Spice Islands Tarragon Seasoning Powder that con-
tains monosodium glutamate to accentuate the flavor). Mix
well and spread thickly on the oysters, then bake in a hot
oven until they are just hot and the tops brown. Serve pronto.
Mardi Gras. which means Fat Tuesday, is the day before
Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. The day is also
known as Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Day, because good house-
wives were supposed to round up all the fat in the house and
fry pancackes like crazy until it was all used up. They had
to eat them all that day. but we'd prefer saving some for fish
blintzes or. better yet. starting from scratch.
FISH BLINTZES
This batter is a thrifty one: mix one egg slightly, add a cup
each of water and Hour, and a half-teaspoon of salt. Stir until
smooth. Grease a small frying pan and when hot pour in about
two tablespoons of the batter. Tip and turn the pan so that all
the bottom is covered with a thin film. Cook slowly on one side
and turn out on a clean cloth. Continue in the same manner
until all the batter is used, then put a heaping tablespoon of
filling on each cake, turn in the sides and fold over the top
and bottom, so that you have a neat little envelope-shaped
package. (The edges may be sealed with more batter.) Brown
the blintzes in butter and serve with sour cream. Filling: Mix
together one cup of farmer's style cottage cheese, a tablespoon
of melted butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, one cup of any
llaked cooked fish, a little fresh ground pepper, and two
tablespoons of grated onion. If you want a sweet blintz, for
dessert, fill with two cups cottage cheese, omit fresh pepper,
fish, and onion, and add a whole egg and a teaspoon of sugar.
Serve with sour cream and apricot or cherry preserves. Dreamy!
What to serve with fish? Lemon, almost always, even if there
is another sauce. Parsley potatoes are perfect, of course, but
don't forget baked ones, served with sour cream and chives.
Or hashed brown with chopped almonds, or even French
fried or creamed (if they are creamed, and not gummed up
with wall paper paste). As for the other vegetable — there's
the favorite cucumber, but green beans, broccoli, asparagus,
tomatoes, cooked in any manner or raw, pickled beets, spinach,
cole slaw — any of these is good with fish — and fish is good!
A fish sauce that is definitely of California goes well with
shark, (sometimes called grayfish) a fish not to be despised.
WALNUT FISH SAUCE
Combine one-quarter cup each of grated horseradish and
chopped walnuts, a cup of sour cream, a tablespoon of lemon
juice, and a half -teaspoon of salt. Serve cold.
Pompano. that fish so loved by gourmets, is found in South-
ern Californian waters, and cooked in the Creole manner.
POMPANO EN PAPILOTTE
Allow a pound and a half of boned and skinned fish for
six servings. Cut in pieces about three or four ounces each.
Using parchment paper, aluminum foil, or just plain type-
writer paper (8I/2 x 11, the right size), cut large, fat, heart-
shaped pieces. Now make a sauce by cooking a quarter cup of
chopped shallots or green onions in three tablespoons of butter
for two minutes, then adding six chopped mushrooms and
cooking another minute. Add four tablespoons of flour, stir,
then pour in one-half cup each of white wine, cream, and fish
stock (use those bones and that skin!). Add a tiny pinch of
dried marjoram and salt and pepper as you like it. Cook
slowly until smooth and thickened, then add the yolk of an
egg, whisking it briskly. Cool this sauce. Brush the paper
hearts with melted butter, arrange a piece of fish on one half
of each heart, cover with a quarter cup of the sauce, and fold
over the other half of the paper. Crimp the edges by making
a double fold and pinching firmly. Bake at 450° for fifteen
minutes, or until the paper is brown. Serve in the paper, allow-
ing each lucky guest to open his own package and savor that
first wonderful whiff of that imprisoned aroma.
Sand dabs, a favorite Californian fish, are best when simply
cooked. A la meuniere (in the style of the miller, probably
because of the flour used) is perhaps best.
SAND DABS, A LA MEUNIERE
Have sand dabs trimmed and dip them in flour. Brown on
each side in butter and remove to a hot platter. Add more
butter to the pan and when nut brown, squeeze in the juice of
a lemon, then pour over the fish and sprinkle with chopped
parsley.
For your copy of CALIFORNIA COOKS by Helen Evans
Brown, send $1.00 to THE CALIFORNIAN, 1020 So. Main St.,
Los Angeles 15. California.
51
LOOK YOUNGER
as You Grow Older
BrnmaEukuAE
A PROVEN SCIENTIFIC
FACIAL TREATMENT
AND
PLEASANT NON-SURGICAL
REJUVENATION and FACE LIFT
(1) REMOVES blackheads, white heads, and
tissue debris.
(2) CORRECTS enlarged, clogged pores, dry
skin, oily sVin, sallowness, and blem-
ishes.
(3) CLEARS the skin ot acne and pimples.
(4) SMOOTHES wrinkles, and erases facial
lines.
(5) TIGHTENS sagging cheeks and double
cbins.
(6) INCREASES circulation and tissue nutri-
tion.
(7) VITALIZES nerve, gland, muscle ond
skin structure.
(B) RESTORES natural, lovely skin.
Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest
you:
Alhambra 2021 Primrose Ave.
Belmont Shore 203 Glendora Ave.
Berkeley — 1762 Solano Ave.
3173 College Ave.
Fresno 3097 Tulare St.
Hollywood 1627 N. Cahuenga Blvd.
Glendale..._ 1123 N. Brand Blvd.
Long Beach 742 Pine Ave.
Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd.
900 S. Norton Ave.
Modesto _ _ 322 Burney St.
North Hollywood...- 12131 Riverside Dr.
Oakland -...1 225 Broadway
Pasadena 258 S. las Robles Ave.
Pomona 200 E. Center St.
San Francisco 150 Powell St.
San Jose Suite 459, Porter Bldg.
San Mateo 318 B. Street
Santa Ana.— 405V2 N. Broadway
Santa Monica 271 9-E Santa Monica Blvd.
KEEPS FOODS HOT . . . Right on the Table
Novel and Attractive as a gift or
prize. It does not cook but keeps the
last cup of coffee steaming as it
pours. Useful with cereals, toast,
vegetables, etc. Safe with metal,
china or glass dishes. Saves many
steps to the kitchen.
Your cleverness in selecting a
COFFEE-HOT" as a practical
gift will be remembered daily at
the breakfast table.
Smartly styled in plastic case, red or white.
Just 6 ' across. 6' cord & plug. $2.50 prepaid.
SUPREME ELECTRIC PRODUCTS CO.
194 Vassar Street, Rochester 7, N. Y.
Wanted
BROKEN
JEWELRY
All kinds. Highest
cash prices for jew-
elry, rings, spectacles, gold teeth.
diamonds, broken and usable
watches, sterling, etc. Prompt re-
mittances. Satisfaction guaranteed.
WRITE FOR FREE
SHIPPING CONTAINER
LOWE'S Dept.a
Holland Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
SHARP KNIVES
Sensational new sharpener makes professional
sharpening a simple, foolproof process. _ A
knife sharpener for home use that will give
professional results, without mechanical knowl-
edge. Guide slots automatically hold the knife
blade at the proper angle for correct sharp-
ening by fine tru-balanced corundum i hone.
All metal construction, with self -lubricating
bronze bearing, sturdy polished and ground
steel crank shaft, assures a lifetime of trouble-
free service. Mounts easily for a permanent
convenient installation.
Sent $3.25 Postpaid
CENTRAL MERCHANDISING CO.
Dept. A2 Victoria, Kansas
add BARE-/)/ AN OUNCE
for U\l\-est BEAUTY
PAMELA GAY
ULTRA BRIEFS
for your casual and
formal wear.
BAREST WHISPER
Yellow or 81 ue Sheer
$2.95
BO-PEEP
Block or White Sheer,
wide loce trim and cute
$4.95
Send check with order.
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. We
prepay by 1st class
Mail. Include hip meas-
urements.
P,
ame
BOX 23C
MELROSE 76, MASSACHUSETTS
WHERE TO BUY MAX KOPP DRESS
Your spring print dress by Max Kopp, seen on page 31
is available to you at the following stores:
ARIZONA: People's Dept. Store, Saffor; E. F. Sanguinette, Inc., Yum
ARKANSAS: Wall's Dept. Store, Jonesboro; The Fashion Shop, Ma
vern; Eisenkramer's, Pine Bluff.
CALIFORNIA: Faye's, Alhambra; Lenore Smith, Arroya Grande; Fasi
ion Shop, Bell; Hezlett's, Berkeley; Domino Shop, Vilma's, Bever
Hills: Parke Apparel, Buena Park; Irene's Dress Shop, Calexico; J
Oser & Co., Chico; Benjamin Strauss, Rodder's Mademoiselle, Fresnc
Gertrude Bowne, Fullerton; Alley Sportswear, Dudley's, Fashion Sho-
Ruth Faye Shop, Glendale; Bon Allure, Grass Valley; Milady's Sty
Shop, Hawthorne; Economy Dept. Store, Hayward; Muriel Frock Sho;
Hermosa Beach; Ann's, Billie's, Hollywood; Leona's, Tate's, Huntingto
Park; Ollie's Shop, Indio; Marbro's, Roberta's, Inglewood; Walker'
Long Beach; Beek's Fashions, Brown's Clothiers, Louella Calvert, I
Chic Shoppe, Leggett's, Town Shop Crenshaw, Los Angeles; Ambc
Style Shop, Knobby Sportswear, Lynwood; The Toggery, Manhatta
Beach; Modern Eve Shop, Martinez; Selb's, Merced; J. Loeb, Mi
desto; Bamburg's, Napa; Rathbun's, Sawyer's, Tenners Dress Sho
North Hollywood; DeVorin's, Marlowe's, Oakland; Bess Briggs, Bryant'
Pian's, Palo Alto; Jessie P. Light, Pomona; C. M. Dicker, Redding
Hana West, RedJands; Herman Markowitz,. Redondo Beach; Kneeland'
Sacramento; Smart Shop, Salinas; Stept's, San Bernardino; Dixson
San Carlos; Ballard & Brockett, Hafter's, Walker-Scott Corp., San Diego
Diane's, Peggy Shop, Livingston Bros., San Francisco ; Lacterman'
San Luis Obispo; Cleo's, San Marino; Towne's Smart Shop, Deans, Sa
Pedro; Mattingly's, Frances Norton Shop, Santa Ana; Jack Rose, Sant
Barbara; Diana's Dress Shop, Rose Gold, Ann Howe, Markowitz Bros
Santa Monica; The Fashion, Santa Rosa; Eden Fashions, David Levii
son, Smith & Lang, Stockton; Leona Blessinger, Temple City; Th
Wonder Wear, Vallejo; Jack Rose, Ventura; Raisers, Victorville
Wanda's Style Shop, Visalia; Tanya's, Walnut Creek; The Fashioi
Watsonville; Margail's, West Los Angeles; Ballard & Brockett, Durand'i
Whittier; The Fashion, Woodland.
K
* '■
-.>
*-'
:■:
■
■I ''
r:
'■
:
Hi
10
■:-,:•
FLORIDA: Mary Schuh, Coral Gables; Bertha Cooke, Tallahasee.
GEORGIA: Fashion Sportswear, Atlanta.
IDAHO: Snider's, Buhl; Modern Deb Shoppe, Pocatello; The Foss Co
Preston.
INDIANA: H. P. Wasson Co., Indianapolis.
KANSAS: Flo Frocks, Wichita.
LOUISIANA: Ellzey's, Exclusive Shop, Baton Rouge: Mayer Israel Co
Orleans Shop, New Orleans.
MINNESOTA: David-Edwin's, St. Paul.
MISSOURI: Cavin's, Springfield.
NEW MEXICO: Thelma's, Clovis: W. W. Merritt Co., Rosewell.
NEW YORK: Hanson's California Classics, Manhasset; Edna Besf
Bloomingdale's, New York.
OKLAHOMA: Lambert's, Enid; Smith Style Shop, Mangum; Holl>
wood Dress Shop, Shattuck; Laughlin's Campus Shop, Stillwater.
OREGON: McDevitt's, Albany; Excel Dress Shoppe, Ashland; Th
Paris, Coos Bay; Miller Mercantile Co., Eugene; Excel Dress Shop
Grants Pass: The Eastern, Portland; The Fashionette, Salem.
PENNSYLVANIA: Katsman, Inc., McKeesport.
TENNESSEE: Linden Circle Dress Shop, Memphis.
TEXAS: Patten's Dress Shop, Alice; Kuykendall's, Amarillo: Pain
Bros., Baytown; Jay's, Beaumont: Bollack's, Brownsville; Koehler Dr
Goods, Cuero; Miss Hendley's Shop, Denton; Rozelle's, Edinbur
W. C. Stripling Co., Fort Worth; lone Crow Shop, Harlingen; T
Vogue. Lamesa; Economy Shop, Midland; Mize Bros., Nocogdoches
Nash Tucker Shop, Odessa: Libby's, Rosenberg; Russell's Dept. Store
Vernon : Hollywood Shop, Wink.
UTAH: The Nadine, Ogden: Hudson Bay Fur Co., Salt Lake City.
WASHINGTON: Browers^ Aberdeen ; C. C. Chaffee Co., Everett; Cap
lan's, Vancouver; The Vogue, Walla Walla; The Fashion Shop
Wenatchee.
WYOMING: Kassis Dept. Store, Caspar.
MEXICO: Modes Palacci, Mexico Citv.
hi
NEW! NU-FAB FABRIC PAIlT
I '*siuc pi'i*'
(Made from plastic and rubber)
• REJUVENATES FABRICS ranging from lamp shades and upholstered c
to awnings and convertible Auto Tops
• WATERPROOFS — Also retards fire, dry rot, mildew and repels m>
Seals small holes
• DRIES IN 30 MINUTES — May be washed
• EASY TO APPLY — By brush or spray
Available in 12 colors and black and white
Price $2.59 per Ot. (1 Qt. covers 60 to 90 sq. feet]
ALLEN PLASTICS CORP., 1015 E. 173rd St., New York 60, N. Y.
WRITE FOR FREE BOOKLET
52
TH
CAIIFORNIAN, March, 1949
■here to Buy Preview Sportswear Skirts:
> "II find the skirts pictured on page 42
't 'he following stores:
/.ZONA: Nogales, Capins Mercantile
iS-es; Phoenix, The Town Shop; Safford,
A Jem Dress Shop; Tempe, Bright's Style
[L; Tucson, Western Terrace.
c'lFORNIA: Bakersfield, Eastern; El
$nte, Miss and Matron Shop; Eureka,
C y Bros.; Fort Bragg, Lillian's; Fuller-
M Kingsbury; Glendale, H. S. Webb;
r-iward, Bressman's; Hermosa Beach,
tin's; Hollywood, Sporty Knit; Hunting-
It Park, Lee's Dept. Store; Long Beach,
glider Shop; Los Angeles, Swelldoms;
t, irovia. Bain's; North Hollywood, Sporty
K ; Oakland, Goldman's; Ocean Beach,
V,a Moss; Pasadena, F. C. Nash; Pomona,
■ for Jills; Redondo Beach, Herman's;
jlrside, Kristy's; Sacramento, Hale Bros.;
51 Bernardino, The Harris Co.; San Diego,
B'ard and Brockett; San Fernando,
my's Apparel; San Francisco, Hale Bros.;
5| Jose, Hale Bros.; San Pedro, Fashions
^Phillips,- Santa Ana, Mattingly's; Santa
ife.para, M. Frederics; Santa Paula, Frum-
4Js Smart Shop; Whittier, Tibbetts.
CiORADO: Boulder, La Salles,- Denver,
Jdn Dry Goods.
llRIDA: Miami, Kotton King.
HHO: Burley, The Style Shop; Idaho
[tie, Leo Levine; Pocatello, Modern Deb;
(R.purg, Liberty Dept. Store.
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Com-
pany; Rockford, The Smart way.
KANSAS: Wichita, George Innes Company.
MICHIGAN: Detroit, The Rollins Company.
MISSOURI: St. Louis, Stix, Baer and Fuller.
NEBRASKA: Norfolk, SilMks Ready to
Wear; North Platte, Rosana Shop; ScoMs-
bluff , Bea and Buryle.
NEVADA: Las Vegas, Bain's.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Mosier's.
NEW YORK: Rockville Center, Terrace
Shop.
OHIO: Cleveland, The Higbee Company;
Dayton, Elder Johnson.
OREGON: Astoria, Leon's; Eugene, Leon's,-
Klamath Falls, Leon's; Midford, Leon's;
Portland, Bedell; Solem, Leon's.
PENNSYLVANIA: Pittsburgh, Frank & Seder;
Union town, Wright-Metzler.
TENNESSEE: Nashville, Castor-Knott.
TEXAS: Dallas, The Style Shop; Ft. Worth,
R. E. Cox Dry Goods Co.; Houston, Foley's;
San Antonio, The Vogue; Sulphur Springs,
Wood's Shop; Tyler, K. Wolens Dept.
Stores.
UTAH: Ogden, Belle Monde; Provo, Tay-
lor's; Salt Lake City, Salt Lake Knit.
WASHINGTON, D. C: Washington, L.
Frank.
WASHINGTON: Auburn, Hattie Casper;
Richland, Hurt's; Seattle, MacDougall-
Southwick Co.; Tacoma, Peoples Store.
WISCONSIN: Racine, Koenig's.
l\e Preview Sportswear skirt pietured on page 7 is available
at the following stores:
A 'ONA: Douglas, Gloria Foster; No-
(gtls, Capins Mercantile Stores; Safford,
roles Dept. Store.
CIFORNIA: Buena Park, Marion and
»Tc|; Compton, Junior Deb; Eureka, Daly
Bi|.; Fresno, L. L. Lewis; Glendale, Col-
lepte Shop; Hayward, Bressman's; Hunt-
fnpn Park, Campus Togs; Inglewood,
Ri Apparel; Long Beach, Columbia; Los
A(eles, Swelldoms; Monrovia, Bain's;
M|terey, Collegiate Shop; Oakland, Hale
Br .; Ocean Beach, Veda Moss; Oxnard,
fcj-lotte Shop; Palo Alto, Walster's; Pasa-
drb, F. C. Nash; Pomona, Junior Jills;
,Rt;and's, Blume's; Redondo Beach, Her-
m 's; Riverside, Kristy's; San Bernardino,
Bnt's; San Diego, Lion Dry Goods; San
Frlcisco, Knitcraft; San Pedro, Lilyans;
Sc a Ana, Mattingly's; Santa Barbara,
|Wfrederics; Whittier, Tibbetts.
OORADO: Boulder, La Salles; Denver,
Jen Dry Goods; Greely, Musick's Frock
Sh.
IlklDA: Miami, Kotton King.
IDHO: Burley, Style Shop; Rexburg, Lib-
er) Dept. Store.
_J
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Com-
pany; Rockford, The Smartway.
KANSAS: Wichita, George Innes Company.
MICHIGAN: Detroit, J. L. Hudson; Grand
Rapids, Leonora Fashions,- Kalamazoo,
Isabelle's.
MISSOURI: Kansas City, The Jones Store;
St. Louis, Stix, Baer and Fuller.
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Mosier's;
Hobbs, Neithercutt; Raton, Kilmurray; San-
ta Fe, Irma's.
NEVADA: Ely, Lucille's Dress Shop; Las
Vegas, Bain's.
OHIO: Dayton, Elder Johnson.
OREGON: Oregon City, Simon's Ready to
Wear.
PENNSYLVANIA: Johnstown, Penn Traffic
Company; Uniontown, Wright-Metzler.
TEXAS: Houston, Foley's.
UTAH: Ogden, Belle Monde; Provo, Tay-
lor's; Richfield, Rosana Shop,- Salt Lake
City, Wolfe's.
WASHINGTON: Seattle, MacDougall-South-
wick Co.
WISCONSIN: Racine, Koenig's.
Vhere to Buy Your Junior Miss Dress:
Thjlovely rayon shantung dress on page
12may be purchased at the following
stcs:
AliAMA: Cullman, George Stiefelmeyer.
Al ONA: Phoenix, Goldring.
CAFORN1A: Bakersfield, Bess Blair; Bev-
erij Hills, Nobby Knit Shops; Fresno,
Br\ner's; Hemet, DeMarr's; Huntington
Pai, Co-ed's Smart Shop; Inglewood, Co-
Edj Smart Shop; Laguna Beach, Cornelia
Siilow; La Jolla, lller's; Long Beach,
Pay's; Los Angeles, Mesa Dept. Store;
Otjrio, Bunny's; Pomona, Ora Addies;
Re:ndo Beach, Mademoiselle Shops; Sac-
'ai'nto, La Verne Shop; San Diego, Ja-
:obn's; Sanger, Florence Hemphill; Santa
^n' Campus Togs, White's; Santa Mon-
ies Bentley's, The Jerry Brills, Dosel's;
>tc ton. Campus Lane, The Sterling; West-
:hi|er. Mademoiselle Shops.
-C-NECTICUT: New Britain, Californian.
:l<i|DA: Warrington, Navy Point Stores;
Col Gables, Lulu Mae Shop.
'UJOIS: Clinton, Dorothy's Style Shop.
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
KENTUCKY: Bowling Green, Martin's; Lex-
ington, Martin's.
MISSOURI: St. Louis, Scruggs-Vandervoort,
Sonnenfeld's.
OHIO: Mansfield, R. B. Maxwell; Marietta,
Hanes Shop; Marion, Uhler-Phi Mips.
OREGON: Grants Pass, Excel Dress Shoppe.
PENNSYLVANIA: Morristown, Feder's;
West Chester, Joel Weiss.
SOUTH CAROLINA: Columbia, Martin's;
Bennettsville, Kiddie-Teen Shop.
TENNESSEE: Knoxville, Miller's.
TEXAS: Harlington, Diana Shop.
WASHINGTON: Seattle, Bon Marche.
WYOMING: Worland, The Smart Shop.
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
5AN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting.
Millinery. Tailoring, Sketching.
Modeling. Day and Evvung Classes
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
wood & Oliver
Kearny St.
Ave.
San Francisco.
PltUburgti.
Calif.
Pa.
Do. 28059
Atlantic 385J
Stores Offering
Max Kopp Dresses
The lovely Empire silhouette dresses by
Max Kopp as shown on page 13 are
available at the following stores:
STATE OF CALIFORNIA: Anaheim, Gaye
Suzanne Shop; Bishop, Specialty Shop;
Buena Park, Parke Apparel; Chico, M.
Oser & Co.; Huntington Park, Leon's; Los
Angeles, Broadway Dept. Store, May Co.;
Lynwood, Amber Style Shop; Oakland,
Marlowe's; Oroville, Donna's; Pasadena,
Pian's, Bess Brigg's; San Francisco, Peggy
Shop, Diane's; Santa Rosa, The Fashion-
Stockton, Eden Fashions; Victorville,
Raiser's.
BATON ROUGE, LA., Exclusive Shop;
CLOVIS, NEW MEXICO, Thelma's; CORAL
GABLES, FLA., Mary Schuh; EUGENE, ORE-
GON, Miller Mercantile Co.; EUNICE, LA.,
La Vogue; GALVESTON, TEXAS, Benoit's;
GUYMAN, OKLA., Ethel's Shop; HOUSTON,
TEXAS, Boyer & Whisennand, Martha's
Ladies' Shop; LIBERAL, KANSAS, Shoppe
Elite; NOGALES, ARIZ., Bracker's; ST.
PAUL, MINN., Husch Brothers; SALT LAKE
CITY, UTAH, The Paris; WHARTON,
TEXAS, Sol's Dress Shop; WICHITA, KAN-
SAS, Hinkel's.
ARE YOU DRESSING
CORRECTLY?
You can play up your good points, play
down your figure faults, accent your posi-
tive, appear constantly as a well-dressed
woman if you follow the simple rules in
Dressing by Design, a collection of 10 im-
portant fashion articles from The Califor-
nian Magazine. Write today for your
copy . . . only 50c postpaid.
THE CALIFORNIAN MAGAZINE
1 020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, California
WONDERFUL IDEA FOR BIRTHDAYS,
HOLIDAYS, SPECIAL OCCASIONS
COLONY GENUINE SMITH-
FIELD BAKED HAM— READY
TO EAT
EVERY HAM INSPECTED BY U. S. DEPT.
OF AGRICULTURE
RARE TASTE THRILL right down to
the last delicious morsel . . COLONY
Ham, 1-year cured in Smithfield,t Vir-
ginia, from peanut-fed razorback pigs, is
prepared, ready-to-serve, by 3 300-year-old
recipe . . baked with sugar and spices,
hasted liberally with Sauterne wine, beau-
tiful lv garnished and browned to a
Queen's taste. Sizes 8 to 12 lbs., $1-95
per lb. (Add postage $1.00 per ham
West of Miss.) We come close to size
ordered, refunding or billing for slight
difference. If vou'd rather cook your own,
we'll ship a 12-14 lb. year-old whole un-
cooked ham, with our recipe, for just
$16.75, plus $1.00 to help pay postage.
Check or Money Order NOW.
COLONY HAM COMPANY, INC.
505 FLATIRQN BLDG., NORFOLK, VA.
"FIND YOUR STAR"
Which Movie Star Are You Like?
Regardless of where or who you are, vou
do look like a Movie Star. Let Thelma
Ray "'FIND YOUR STAR," and learn
how that Star can be your style and
beauty guide.
Be as Glamorous as Your Star
Thelma Ray is one of Hollywood's leading
authorities on fashions and Movie Stars.
Let her help you. She gives personal
attention to every letter.
To "FIND YOUR STAR,;' send your
picture, age, occupation, height, weight,
color of eyes and hair, and $1.00 to
cover cost of research to:
THELMA RAY
"FIND YOUR STAR"
Box +13 Hollywood 28, Calif.
I
mi
I 7&
llalian
and French!
Cuisine
VEHLLN'lilA
U
PAUL
Your Host
1 Since 192(1
8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
A GOOD PLACE
TO EAT
53
an EDDIE NOBER OF CALIFORNIA ORIGINAL
in Cocoashan — A CAVALCADE FABRIC
High charm from California! One piece dress in
ice-cream cool woven striped Shantung ... its
crisply casual lines are typical of the best
in the West! Deep-toned stripes contrast a
white background. This dress features a
convertible neckline, round shoulders
and peg pocket detail. White background
with black, brown, navy and green
stripes. Sizes 10-20, under {pXJ.UO
^ ShSrle
AVAILABLE AT THE FOLLOWING STORES:
Boston, Mass. Indianapolis, Ind.
NEAL'S WM. H. BLOCK
Charleston, W. Va. Sacramento, Calif.
COYLE & RICHARDSON HALE BROS.
Chattanooga, Tenn. San Francisco, Calif.
MILLER BROS. HALE BROS.
Washington, D. C.
WOODWARD & LOTHROP
For further infc
t r m a t i
on write JANE
TAYLOR
945 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
54
THE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949
Fashion's newest . . . these gay shirts that may be
worn five different ways . . . yours, in five stunning
fabrics . . . and at less than $4 . . .
TMOR SPORTSWEAR COMPANY, INC. • CLEVELAND 14, OHIO • NEW YORK 18, N. Y.
Represented by DAVE WIEDHOPF, 6439 Sawyer St., Los Angeles
Cotton — California Mood
The free-hand designing peculiar to California is something
Dan River well understands. Our stylists are constantly working
hand in hand ivith coast creators to produce
fabrics best adapted to California needs.
As a result, more and more Coast designers
depend upon Dan River for fabric inspiration. More and
more stores look to the Dan River label for
coast-wise fashions at their best.
Dan River Mills, Inc., Danville, Va.
New York Sales Office: 40 Worth Street, New York 13, N. Y.
vW
%>
/ A MAGAZINE STYLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
OflH
PRICE 35 CENTS
■
*i
<£> *> *v
Vv
Because you love the new plunging
neckline and its companion
stand-up collar
Because white spiced with color
does things for you
Because the cool look is
your look for summer
Marion McCoy
has designed this dress of
wonderful, washable rayon
Salyna with you in mind. White
with naoy, white with brown,
white with green.
Sizes 9 to 15.
$39.95
Order by Mail fro
College and Career She
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
..
X
» . -.
' TO
Li V
'
St"
/
>* ^
Buy the Sun-dress at :
Burdine's, Miami, Fla.
Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia, Pa.
Harzfeld's, Kansas City, Mo.
Rhodes Dept. Store, Seattle, Wash.
and other fine stores
or write Cole of California
2615 Fruitland Road,
Los Angeles 11
Fabric Tells the Fashion Story . . ,
Keyed to a Sun-dance! Whimsical cactus
on a Fluegelman Jeri Print, sun-dressed,
Matletex*-hugged by Cole of California.
Pink, green or tan. Small, Medium, Large.
Under $11.
*Co/c of California's patented process oj shirring with lastex thread.
N . rluegelman & CO., inc.
1412 Broadway, New York 18, New York
S09&
m
Vol.7
No. 3
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U. S. A. Yearly sub-
scription price $3.00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office, Loi Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879.
APRIL
1949
\
\
N
V;
naturally i t's
In silk Shantung. To retail at about $40.
4
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
You can cease resisting linen
when its trulv crease-resistant
(yuOM
, Outfit
'WJb
yfcw
'mm-
.
Ilm
A.11 the things you love about linen ... and none ol the things you don t . . . in a California sheath and
jib jachet that will see you smoothly through your most ruffling day. An exclusive sea-f>rint in sea-colors
. . . marine blue-black-white, coral-navy-white. kelf> brown- blach -white . . .jacketed in the darkest shade.
Sizes lO to 16. 3Q^^
Casual Clothes, Fourth Floor
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
THE GAY TRAVELLER
AT THESE STORES:
Atlantic City, N. J.
M. E. BIATT
Champagne, Illinois
F.„K.»l!OBESON'S
Chico, Calif.
M. OSER & CO.
Columbus, Miss.
EGGER'S
Des Moines, Iowa
YOUNKERS
Mt. Shasta, Calif.
SCHUIER'S
Pasadena, Calif.
NASH'S
Stockton, Calif.
THE BROWN HOUSE
Wichita Falls, Tex.
PERKINS TIMBERLAKE
OR FOR NEAREST STORE WRITE:
MEENA Of Cslifomia makes this three-piece lounge-lovely coat and pajama set in Cohama
polka dot rayon crepe. Boon companion on your vacation, fun to wear in the dorm or at
home. Three-quarter coat and trousers in navy or red with white dots; topper in white with match-
ing red or navy dots. Sizes 12-20.
Note these extra qualities:
Full generous cut of trousers
Added length to robe
Push-up sleeves
ABOUT $20.00 THE SET
(5=7*
fc
945 So. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
buttons . . . and bows (not bows)
Yes, Bows to Deauville Models for this superbly
detailed tissue faille crepe blouse in every
conceivable color. Only $10.95. Available at
Nancy's, Hollywood; Buffums', Long Beach;
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Myer Siegel, Los Angeles;
Meier & Frank, Portland, Oregon, and other
fine stores throughout America.
d
eauville
\odels
California's Finest and^Most
Imitated Blouses
407 East Pico Boulevard
Los Angeles 15
THE CAUFORNIAN, April, 1949
JUST OFF THE PRESS
Second Edition of
California Cooks
By Helen Evans Brown
A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex-
clusively in
The CALIFORNIAN
3«*«r*
■-- »tn
SEND FOR YOUR COPIES TODAY
$1.00
POSTPAID
The first edition sold out completely.
ONE FOR YOURSELF!
ONE FOR THE BRIDE!
ONE FOR YOUR FAVORITE
GOURMET!
A distinguished cuisine influenced by the
Missions, by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by
California vineyards and citrus groves, by
the desert, by the Spanish fiesta days, by
patio living and barbecues, by picnicking in
California, by the seashore and by the lav-
ish days of old San Francisco.
Kumquat Marmalade . , Napa Kidney Saute
. . Spaghetti Ventura . . Patio Salad . .
Barracuda San Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . .
California Almond Sauce . . Fresno Fritters
. . Ojai Orange Sauce for Duckl
It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READ-
ING—GOOD COOKINGI
/
CALIFORNIAN
To: THE CALIFORNIAN
1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS
(Name)
(Address)
(City, State and Zone)
Enclosed is payment for Q copies at $1 each.
'™..___."v
4 '
1 _ I ;
SOLID BEAUTY ... in limited series re-
productions of original sculpture by Harold
Frederick Wilson. These cast stone bookends
materialize Mr. Wilson's dream — great works
of art everyone can own. The Mayan head,
copy of an original fragment, depicts the
high type teacher-astronomer typical at the
peak of Mayan culture. The Aztec fragment
is the stoic face of a savage priest, framed
in the symbolical jaguar's head, truly de-
picting the fanatical leader. This magnificent
pair, only S15 postpaid. The Margorita Shop,
1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15,
Calif.
FLOWER FROG . . . we've a flower-phobia
about bouquets falling to one side of the
vase or sprawling every which way. So the
Kubari Frog is most welcome! Dividing the
vase into five sections, it consists of two rust-
proof rubber-tipped pieces, a Y and bar.
Both units are adjustable for diameters from
3" to 5", to be placed at any desired point.
Bisects any vase, round or square, metal or
glass. The Kubari Frog, yours for lovelier
flower groupings, just $1 postpaid; no
C.O.D.'s. Aarco Co., 520 West Seventh St.,
Los Angeles 14, Calif.
TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly
appropriate for most any springtime and
summer occasion. Extra good fit is assured
with adjustable straps that smartly buckle
for added fashion interest. In cloud-white,
lipstick-red, or hunter-green, in the softest
elkskin. This easy-to-clean footgear is a wise
choice, indeed. Nicely priced at 85.95. Please
add 15c postage, and 2l/2% sales tax if in
California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send your
order to Gawthrop's Shop, Box 372, Balboa
Island, Calif.
PRETTY UP THAT FAUCET . . . here's
topping for your outdoor faucet that will
do justice to your pretty garden ... to saw
nothing of being a clever gift for a garden-
ing friend. The Dove (shown) is just one
of a wide range of models, including Dog,
Rooster, Horse or Swan. Each of solid brass,
highly polished, and interchangeable with I
regular hose connection. $7.50 each. (Ship-
ping charges on C.O.D.'s are collect ) . Ham-
macher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street, New
York 22, New York.
FLOWERS 'N BOWS ... is the provocative
name of this enchanting cigarette set. The
large box, big enough for two king-size packs,
may be used as candy or jewel box (2%"
x5"x3%"). It's cleverly designed, with over-
lapping top for smooth fit. The two match-
ing ashtrays are bow-trimmed. A wonderful
gift for Easter or Mother's Day, in your
choice of yellow, black, green, white, red
or turquoise. Set of three, just $5.00 post-
paid (no C.O.D.'s, please) from The Mar-
gorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los
Angeles 15, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
CERAMIC CONVERSATION PIECES . . .
by Tony Hill are these ingenious two. Over-
size cigarette box, 6" long and 4" wide, in
rough-textured ceramics features a free-form
design on the cover . . . plenty of space in-
side for candies, if you like. Stone grey, just
$3.75. The large planter, an amusing "king-
size" beer mug, may be used for cigarettes,
candies, or plants. Green or coral with white,
or yellow with brown, 84.50 Add 50c for
postage, and send your orders to Tony Hill,
3121 West Jefferson, Los Angeles 16, Calif.
SUNBURST CLOCKS . . . beautiful ankle
accents on exquisite sheer hosiery by Willys
of Hollywood. DuPoint nylon, featuring hand-
appliqued "Sunburst" velour clocks. For
streetwear, cocktails and evening. Seamed or
seamfree, regulation toe or sandalfoot. Won-
drous '49ers colors: pay dirt; gold dust;
mica brown; rose quartz; red earth; shovel
tan. Sizes 8 to 11, $3.75 the pair. Stix, Baer
& Fuller, St. Louis; Marshall Field, Chicago;
Saks 5th Avenue, New York; May Co. Wil-
I shire, Los Angeles. Or write Willys of Holy-
wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
HURRICANE SALT & PEPPER SET . . .
just 3" high are these cunning salt and pep-
pers. With chrome-plated base and unbreak-
able plastic tops created to withstand rough
treatment and all kinds of weather, you'll
find this set useful indoors and out. An
adaptation of the old-fashioned hurricane
lamp, the shape blends with any dinnerware
patterns. Just $1.00 per pair postpaid. Add
3c in Calif. Fred L. Seymour Company, Box
1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
SU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . smoothest
fitting, most comfy, all-stretch girdle yet. All
Imylon power-net, sewed with nylon thread and
llfinished with nylon elastic garters. Smooth,
licool comfort — no riding or slipping — no re-
llvealing seamlines even under your slickest
([dresses. Custom-made to your measurements.
([Available in step-in (shown, no legs) or
Jjpantie (with legs). White, nude or black.
Ipent postpaid insured (no C.O.D.'s) for only
Ipl0.95. Send measurements of your waist,
lltummy, hips, thigh, weight and height to
||Su-Z, 2920 West Vernon Ave., Los Angeles
Ife, Calif.
WHEELBARROW AND CART . . . ador-
llable ceramic containers, these miniature 'bar-
Itows and push-carts, that you'll want for
Ifmost everything. A charming way to brighten
l&our corner or table, and wonderful for cen-
Iferpiece arrangements. About 4" high, each
■has a removable frog for holding flowers, or
lyou may choose to use them for plants,
I cigarettes, candy. A perfectly precious pair,
[[in chartreuse, yellow or maroon. Wheelbarrow
ft>r cart, $2.25 each, or $4.00 the pair post-
ipaid. Irving Hamilton, 527 West Seventh
| Street, Los Angeles 14, Calif.
<?W-*0t?'
OLOGNES with the traditional
English bouquet, created exquisitely
by Atkinsons of Bond Street,
can now be bought at the finer shops.
COLD MEDAL
EAU DE COLOGNE
ENGLISH
LAVENDER
ATKINSONS
IMPORTED IT
PAUL K. RANDALL
299 MADISON AVE., NEW YORK 17, N. Y.
IT'S A COCKTAIL TABLE
Presto!
IT'S A GAME-TABLE
DOWN:
from the
floor — a beautiful
cocktail table
with top highly
finished with 6
coats of laquer.
UP: It's a handsome game-table 28/2" high.
In larger sizes it's a graceful dining table!
Sit on it — it won't wobblel Hardware concealed
in legs.
In ASH or BIRCH— 5 colors.
Top sizes: 33" square; 33"x48"; 33"x60"
WRITE
uy^'
FOR
PRICES AND STORES NEAREST YOU
LE VONS', 11304 S. CENTRAL AVE.
LOS ANGELES 2, CALIF. — LUcos 005O
I
'HE CALIFORN1AN, April, 1949
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
uifts in the
Xjalifornia manner
GAY "90 JIGGER: Amusing bar accessory, this cor-
seted torso in ceramic. The bust holds a 1-oz. jigger,
the base a double jigger. Attractively gift-boxed. $1.00
postpaid.
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a champ
with this trick spinning rope. Comes with complete di-
rections. $1.00, postpaid. Child's spurs in white and
gold metal. Fits over any boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid.
MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative
touch fcr your kitchen . . . and useful, too. Four plas-
tic measuring spoons, that fit in a floral arrangement
with this bright ceramic flowerpot. Gadgets like this
make housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50 postpaid.
No C.O.O. — please. Send checfc or money order, f Resi-
dents of California, please add 2J/2% sales tax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
TIE CORRAL SHOP
IANCHO SANTA ft • CAIIFOINIA
— w»W$
10
MALAY BLOSSOM . . . Weil of Cali-
fornia's wonderful new design, wonderful
new shape. You'll dine with delight on this
beautiful dinnerware. Hand-painted under
glaze, with chartreuse blossoms on gray, or
white on celadon (delicate green). Sixteen
piece starter set, nicely priced at $19.95.
Malay Blossom Tea Set, including tea or
sandwich plate and cup, just $2.75. Sixteen
piece Malay Bamboo pattern, not shown,
$17.50. You can add from open stock in
leading stores and shops, or write direct to
Weil of California, 3160 San Fernando Road,
Los Angeles 41, Calif.
BUBBLES WITHIN BUBBLES . . . this
mystery bubble pipe produces smaller bubbles
inside the giant ones! Grownups and kiddies
will be entranced . . . for the whole family,
for your next party. 8" metal pipe with dur-
able hardwood head, has outlets for different
sized bubbles. Bubble powder is included, and
any soap works. Just $1 per kit, including
two pipes, bubble solution, instructions; $5
for six. (No C.O.D.'s, please). Satisfaction
guaranteed by Seltru Products Inc., Dept. CI,
12 Bedford St., Stamford, Conn.
COLOR IN ESPADRILLES ... for men
and women, these wonderfully wearable rope-
soled classics that Espadrille wearers have
loved for years. So comfortable you'll forget
you have them on ! Durable uppers in cos-
tume colors: white, red, brown, green, blue
or black. Send your shoe size and stockinged
footprint. Just $2.60 postpaid. Sorry, no
C.O.D.'s. Orders are promptly filled by Fred
Leighton Inc., Dept. C, 15 East Eighth
Street, New York 3, New York, or 1514 Wis-
consin Avenue Northwest, Washington, D. C.
DERMACULTURE CONTOUR MOLD . . .
easiest, quickest, most efficient means of cor-
recting double chins, flabby jaw muscles,
crepy throat. Made of sponge rubber. Tiny
vacuum cups increase circulation by stimula-
tion ... no need for tight ties which im-
pede circulation. Not a chin strap, but a con-
tour mold acting as a soft tissue cast. Wear
whenever possible, especially at night. No
softening creams or oils necessary. May also
be worn on front or back of neck and for
forehead lines. $2.50 plus 8c tax in Los An-
geles, 7c in Calif. From DermaCulture, 1318
Fourth Avenue, Los Angeles 6, Calif.
HERE AT LAST ... the long-awaited ant
killer, Ant Dust! It provides permanent, com-
plete control of all ant species — and many
other household pests — within 24 hours, in
homes, walks, lawns, gardens. Not dependent
on feeding habits, it kills by contact, inges-
tion, vapors. (Contains the powerful new
toxicant Chlordane). Nonpoisonous, safe to
use everywhere. Request Ant Dust in seed,
drug, hardware stores everywhere, or write
direct. 1-lb. duster type can, $1.00 postpaid.
Bonide Chemical Co., Utica 4, New York
(Makers of Highest Quality Insecticides Since
1926).
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
See the famous control lift brassieres by
Cordelia of Hollywood at your favorite store and
BULLOCK'S — Los Angeles, April 18th to 23rd
when the Cordelia stylist will be present for consultation
and personal discussion of your brassiere problems.
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
11
•4f
V
f
V\ 3^ 1
<,* <^ I
^k^l ' "4t ^^' is
i^m. jfjifii&t' Jff^^ ^^H ^^^H
AT THESE STORES:
Barre, Vermont
HOMER FITTS COMPANY
Bessemer, Alabama
SOKOL'S
Gallup, New Mexico
P. MIOCKER & CO.
Great Falls, Montana
KIUORNS
Huntington, W. Virginia
ANDERSON NEWCOMB CO.
Maysville, Kentucky
MERZ, INC.
Mount Shasta, Calif.
SCHULER'S
Ogden, Utah
WOLFER'S
Phoenix, Arizona
GOLDWATER'S
Pocatello, Idaho
FARGO-WILSON-WEUS
San Francisco, Calif.
HALE BROTHERS
San Jose, Calif.
HALE BROTHERS
Stockton, Calif.
THE BROWN HOUSE
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, WRITE
12
Str0rC6 Of § CUIUS, BY GRAFF OF CALIFORNIA
Graff'S delightful classic blouse in an exciting new paintbrush print highlighting red, copen, gold,
navy, brown on white ... a Fuller Fabric. Wear it with your tailored suits, skirts or even slacks
and playclothes whatever their color!
Sizes 32-40. An outstanding style
$3.95
— at an outstanding price!
Note these extra qualities • — ■
Clever matching of pattern
Smooth fitting sleeves
Convertible neckline
*CT~h
fc
945 SOUTH LOS ANGELES STREET, LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
*
-
ON THE COVER:
Cardigan suit of great
fashion significance . . .
designed by Yablokof) of
Kay Saks in Hajner faille
. . . button tab at yoke,
pencil slim skirt; sizes
10-18, it's under $60 at
City of Paris, San Fran-
cisco; Young-Quinlan,
Minneapolis; Woodward
& Lothrop, Washington,
D. C. Tom Binford photo.
9
3
w
a
9
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
i ASSISTANT PUBLISHER
I FASHION DIRECTOR
FASHION EDITOR.-
I MANAGING EDITOR.
i MEN'S FASHION EDITOR ..
! FASHIONS
FEATURES..
ART
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER.
SHOPPING ROUNDUP..
FOOD STYLIST
.William J. Bowen
..Sally Dickason
.Virginia Scallon
..Alice Carey
-Malcolm Steinlauf
.Jacquelin Lary
Barbara Bailey
Margaret Paulson
..Helen Ignatius
Hazel Allen Pulling
..Morris Ovsey
Anne Harris
John Grandjean
Jane Christiansen
.Frank Stiffler
.Hazel Stall
..Helen Evans Brown
California fashions ,
Here Comes The Bride 14
Pretty As A Picture 16
A Private Affiair 18
She'll Be Married In A Suit 20
Sentimental Season 22
Suits With A Romantic Air 23
Here We Go On Our Honeymoon 24
Bride's Wardrobe Stretchers 26
This Is Adrian 28
Shape of Summer 49
California living
On The Side Of A Hill 30
Your Future In Furniture 32
Patio Ideas 36
Barbecues - - 38
Furniture In A Package 40
News In Side Chairs 41
California Accessories 42
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 46
Flower Arrangements 48
THE CAL1FORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager.
570 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExing_ton 2-9470; San Francisco Office, Leonard
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472: Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & Associates,
21 West Huron St.. Chicago 10. III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West Grand
Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $5.00 one year; S5.00 two
years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United
States. 55c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as second class
matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under act of March,
1879. Copyright 1949 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Reproduction in whole
or part forbidden unless specifically authored.
veM
To a new way of life ... to new responsibilities and new happiness.
With an awakened regard for the real meaning of gracious living, the
bride opens the door to another world where everything is electric
with excitement and even everyday things have a fresh new
beauty and enchantment. And because the bride looks at
the total round of life with anticipation and a highflying eagerness,
we present on the following pages some of the newest ideas from
California. For the bride . . . exquisite dresses, suits and accessories
with a going-away air, delicately feminine lingerie, striking
sportswear coordinates and playclothes. And for the home . . . indoor
and outdoor furniture, barbecues, tableware, lamps,
designed with originality and distinction for the California way
of life . . . a tradition now, to be cherished with the coming years.
Ethereal loveliness of nylon tulle with romantic shadowings of hand Alencon lace on waist, train, foaming skirt. Cahill Ltd. Sizes
8-18. Bullock's Wilshire, Los Angeles; Ransohoff's, San Francisco; Scruggs-Vandervoort-Barney, St. Louis; Lord & Taylor, New York.
15
\OJ> j^JI^MM^ . .
* *•
Portrait of a bride, dressed in memorable fashion.
Emma Domb's sheer marquisette touched with
Chantilly type lace at the wide-sweeping yoke and
around the edge of the apron. With mood-
matching attendant's gown, romantic and lovely, sizes
9-16; wedding dress about $50; bridesmaid's,
about $35 at L. S. Donaldson, Minneapolis;
James McCreery, New York. Flowers by John Patrick Burke.
This bride well might choose the feminine little
wool gabardine suit, right, by Irving Schechter. In
two tones, as shown, or solid colors. Soft lines and
delicate details; sizes 10-16, about $65 at Mildred Moore,
Beverly Hills; Jordan-Marsh, Boston. Weyman hat.
• •*«»»
y^A^mi^
For the girl who'll be married
at home or at an informal ceremony.
Peggy Hunt's demurely sweet
dotted swiss with appliqued lace
medallions; ballet length and
perfect to wear-ever-after.
Sizes 10-16, it's about $40.
For the honeymoon, Rosenblum's
three-piece tweed with a travel
air, practical choice for young
matrons. Sizes 10-20, about $40
at Bullock's, Los Angeles;
Frederick & Nelson, Seattle.
EARL SCOTT
^Is/l'/l
Lovely is the bride, and lucky, too . . . who is
married in a suit like this. Nathalie Nicoli'l
tailleur of Forstmann wool with scalloped detail,
sizes 10-18, about $110 at Bullock's, Pasadena;
Charles Berg, Portland; The Bon March, Seattle.
Weyman's picture hat swathed in roses and
maline is perfect for an informal wedding
Opposite page, bridal accessories:
Ben Brody's lattice-stitched faille handbag;
Ted Saval's gold kid mules; gossamer hose by
Willys of Hollywood; imported batiste and lac
blouse, Deauville Models; Coro's never-endinc
99
pearl circlet, diamond-like heart; Joseff's
lariat to belt or use as a chain;
Henderson's ruffled parasol: Biltmore's locket; j
crepe gown by Chic Lingerie.
#
t:
entimental Season: Gay Prints . . .
:mJ w.
. ^^ Reflected glory for the wedding guest . . . left, pure silk dress by
rV_>^ Madalyn Miller, bustle-back. Sizes 1 0 to 18, about $25 at California Classics, Manhasset,
Long Island. Right, lovely silk flower print by Nan Parker, sizes 9 to 15, about $30.
22
Suits With A Romantic Air
Dressmaker suits in the news . . . left, slim skirt, flared jacket with horizontal insert: by Jaclane. In Pacific's sheen gabardine, sizes
12 to 40, about $70 at J. W. Robinson's, Los Angeles; Macy's, San Francisco. Right, Country Club gabardine suit, flattering
jacket, roll shawl collar, petal effect at hipline. Sizes 1 0 to 18, about $85 at Robert S. Atkins, San Francisco.
23
'... /m
I
/}/Mymmsm^/
Going by car, train, plane or steamer . .
these coats with jaunty manners! Opposite left.
Barney Max light topper, back pleated,
cinched to a tiny waist; sizes 10-20, about
$25 at Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis.
:t, two views of wool greatcoat by Charles of California
sizes 8-18, about $100 at Maurice Rothchild,
Minneapolis. Right, new length,
Jckets newly akimbo, raglan shoulder . . .
to belt or not! Adele-California.
es 8-16, about $90 at Allardale, Beverly Hills;
Neiman Marcus, Dallas.
zvozm.
m-wmm
zttofa
Separates, coordinates . . . make more
of your wardrobe when you mix, match, or
wear them with your own basic fashions.
Opposite, Hollywood Premiere's
rayon gabardine series of shorts, slacks,
skirt, pedal pushers, jacket . . . plus
white crested shirt that "goes with" any one.
Red, white, or blue, sizes 10-18, about
$60 for entire group, but you can buy
separates ... at Nobby Knit Shops,
Southern California; Plymouth Shops, New
York. This page, Tabak of California
creates a dancer's playsuit, skirt, shortie
bolero ... in green, violet, gray, or
tangerine butcher linen with big saucer dots,
a Brighton Fabric. Sizes 10-16, playsuit-
n-skirt under $20, at Gimbels,
Pittsburgh. Wonderful to wear
with your own basic whites for
contrast, as shown.
THIS IS ADRIAN
Daring to be different or bravely clinging to proven
principles, Adrian is a leader in the American fashion
parade. His seasonal innovations always make news,
while his adherence to a belief in certain fundamentals
of figure flattery made him stand out in the years when
other stylists were dropping shoulders and hemlines with
happy abandon. Standing firm for the American ideal,
Adrian kept his decisive shoulder treatment and held
skirts to a lovely length which was determined by a
28
mirror or by personal standards of beauty rather than
by any arbitrary inch-rule of fashion. This season his
collection again is highlighted by the wonderful suits,
travel ensembles and fabulous gowns which have made
him internationally famous . . . and which we feel are
truly Californian. Above left, the "Circus Suit" . . .
proves again Adrian's supremacy in the world of suits.
Here is a masterly interpretation of the town costume,
faille sleeves in tiers of excitement on a figure-wise little
wool suit, pompom buttons of pique giving it additional
distinction. In navy blue only. Above and right, is the
lace-printed organdie gown ... a flower silhouette story
with its stamen-like bodice and the double flare of its
full fluted skirts. The floating lace mantilla adds to the
mood of sheer delicacy. Both are available at J. W.
Robinson, Beverly Hills, and Gunther's, New York.
ON THE SIDE OF A HILL
nrn
?fpc
W
ZJ
u v^y
FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
Here is a little house designed by Paul Laszlo to
make outdoor living more than a slogan. Curved to fit
the road and catch a breeze, it cleverly overcomes the
problem of how-to-keep-cool in an oven-like setting of
sheltering hills.
The deep overhang on the south side of this house is
supplemented by an awning in front of the living room,
creating a spacious balcony or outdoor living room with
emphasis on view. The small central patio is another
device for maintaining coolness and providing additional
ventilation, while rooms set in a curving plan catch every
vestige of sunlight and air.
In addition to the difficult task of creating a hillside
home where its occupants could live outdoors, Laszlo
faced the challenge of planning a house that could open
right off the street with little or no landscaping area
before it. The noncommittal entrance wall, blank except
for a few high windows and a window of obscure glass
are excellent devices for any house which must of ne-
cessity be close to the street ... or even close to its
neighbor, in fact.
This particular house is lemon yellow in contrast with
natural redwood, to blend into the landscaping of formal
flower beds arranged in shapely units of well chosen
color contrasts. Walls of glass and the interesting pattern
of redwood overhang give character to the small house.
We present this particular plan not only because it
has the spirit of California within its four walls, but
because it provides a solution to problems so many home-
builders face . . . the difficult small lot, an unfavorable
exposure, surrounding country which require a certain
type of architecture that can "sit on the side of a hill."
This is the house you can adapt to so many locales,
using the same entry device to protect the front of your
house from the street, neighbors or noise. Once inside
you'll find your house is your kingdom, California style!
Redwood overhang and awnings
give ample shade to outdoor
living room and balconies on the south;
interesting pattern of shadow and
sunshine, and whole walls of windows.
?
u ^y
M
l^nnr^rF
FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
California's way with furniture stresses airy grace and utility . . . as in Brown-Saltman's desk and bookcase designed by Paul Laszlo
in "California Desert" series. Desk is open,- cabinet moves on concealed rollers. Bookcase has copper footing, sleek lines.
W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills and San Francisco; B. Altman, New York; The Hecht Co., Washington, D. C; Younkers, Des Moines.
32
J
J
it:
u
j
Too/ed leather chairs, Thunderbird oak chest from Karpen's "California Manor." W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills and San Francisco.
Your future in furniture is California modern design
. . . really the first new trend ever to be fostered
in, by, and for America, and one that bids fair to
outlive period furniture that our ancestors borrowed
from Europe. Remember that "modern" doesn't
mean cubism or fantasy in sharp angles. It's the
clean line of fine wood and muted tone of color in
rich fabrics. It's the furniture that grew from the
California way of living into an integral part of
homes, from coast to coast, that typify graciousness
and hospitality. Examples of the imaginative treat-
ment of furniture by our western designers are il-
lustrated for you on these pages . . . suggestions
that will enrich your home, promising you a future
with livable beauty. Watch for the news in upholstery
fabrics . . . nubby textures gleam with a sparkle
of gold or silver threads, soft woolens in checks or
plaids vary the solid color scheme. The use of im-
ported woods is notable: South American prima vera
and myrtle, Philippine mahogany, South African
korina. Finishes range from subtle to rich . . . bleach,
natural, toast, soft brown, copper, cordovan and
"silver fox." Convenience and charm are unobtru-
sively blended . . . note famous designer Paul Laszlo's
treatment of desk-case that is movable on concealed
rollers. In his California Desert series for Brown-
Saltman, he utilizes touches of copper to reflect the
spirit of the design. Karpen's "California Manor"
group features the Thunderbird design in oak chest,
in tooled leather for chairs. Tappan'Keal uses con-
trasting woods in modern buffet that doubles as a
record cabinet.
Ilustrating the trend toward
nultiple-use furniture, Tappan'Keal's
junior buffet also is record cabinet!
M Wilder's, Los Angeles;
ord & Taylor, New York.
Cal-Mode's sectional davenport with step-table, May Co., Los Angeles; Broadway, Los Angeles; American Furniture Co., El Paso.
The importance of space allotment in house or apart-
ment is apt to turn the feminine eye to sectional furni-
ture or to coordinated groups . . . they're easy to
arrange, and to rearrange! However, whether the liv-
ing room you plan is spacious or city-small, these groups
will cooperate with your fondest dream. Above, Cal-
Mode's sectional grouping, divided by prima vera step
table designed by Ira Lesser. The upholstery is rough-
textured gold fabric flecked with grey, perfect harmony
for any color scheme you choose. Sherman/Bertram's
"Oklahoma" group, below, offers one, two, or three
"passenger" models. Shown here is the love seat, cov-
ered with soft nubby surface, combination rayon-cotton
fabric. Note the unusual effect of the suspended back
"hanging" above the seat . . . and there are no loose
cushions. Angle of the legs provides an interesting con-
trast to the square lines of back and seat. Either group
pictured here offers you outstanding creative design to
serve as the focal point in your home, or as handsome
supplements to furnishings you already have.
Sherman/Bertram's love seat blends with any decor; Barker Bros., Los Angeles; Famous Barr, St. Louis; Bloomingdale's, New York;
Sanger Bros., Dallas; Bruener's, Oakland; Martha Lucas, Chicago.
California designers have an inherent sense of the value of
space. You'll notice that most furniture coming out of the west
not only has clean free lines, but actually gives spaciousness
to any room. In many cases, occasional pieces provide un-
suspected service and storage, features which make them dou-
bly valuable to the woman with a minute apartment . . . and
a constant source of satisfaction to any home-owner!
Above, L. Ronney & Sons chest has tremendous utility
value. Designed by John Keal, it is 72 inches long with
roll-away dours concealing eight bin-like sliding trays.
Right, Manuel Martin's over-size coffee table of Honduras
mahogany, drawers and corner "cupboards" part of its
plan; Barker Bros., Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines.
Below, Le Von's unique table, triangular treatment of
upper portion making it ideal for corner interest, or di-
vider for sectional furniture; decorative surfaces, too.
!^;
it's easy to follow the sun with Feather-lite furniture!
Van Kepple-Green, leading exponents of California-modern, dramatize patio table, chairs; Bullock's, Pasadena; Carson's, Chicago.
Whether it's wrought iron, aluminum, rattan, or red-
wood, California patio furniture is designed for sun-
days at home. It's fun to give a patio party — easy
to be a carefree hostess out-of-doors! The comfort-
able pieces that you see on this page will make hand-
some additions to your home. They're sure to fit
your scheme of things, made to take all the wear
and tear that outdoor living demands. The long-
lasting covers on the cushions, for instance, are made
of bright red, blue, yellow, and green vat-dyed duck.
We think you'll like aluminum for its streamlined
lightness, its strength; California Redwood for its rustic
comfort; wrought iron for its rich design; rattan for
its indoor-outdoor versatility — all of them because
they take your parlor to the patio! Informality is the
keynote, comfort sets the pace. But regardless of the
style you choose, we know you'll be spending more
time on the terrace or porch, on your garden or patio.
California patio furniture means something new under
the sun, for you!
For outdoor hospitality, Meehan patio set; Barker
Bros., Los Angeles; W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills.
Zl
rm mm
FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
u u u \^y u i y i iu i_r
Bold pattern of metal in furnishings by Pacific Iron Products;
at W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills; Barker Bros., Los Angeles.
For patio or pool-side, pic-
turesque comfort in aluminum
. . . light and easy to move;
Deeco. At Barker Bros., Los An-
geles; Carson' s, Chicago;
Meier & Frank, Portland.
Traditionally, redwood is a California favorite; here with bright accents by Utility Cabinet; available at Barker Bros., Los Angeles.
37
1 ■
!
!■
CAPITAN DE LUXE
rffi
iw
f FOR CALIFORNIA LIVI*
Howfc Barbecue - Brazier, at
Barker Bros., Los Ange/es,- W.
& J. S/oane's, Bever/y Hills.
Largo, perfect for barbecues indoors;
doubles as lovely fruit or flower bowl.
At Parmelee Dohrmann, Los Angeles.
I u
I
Barbecues mean good food and gaiety
blue jeans and cotton dresses, laughter an
blithe, carefree spirit. And in California, ■
becues are as traditional as clam bakes in Iw
England or hay rides in the farm counter
the middle west. But from Cape Cod to Lag (I
Beach — in small towns or big cities, in b<(
yards or open meadows, in a bungalow c8
mansion, a tiny two-room apartment or a !S~
cious luxurious penthouse — the tradition of i|
barbecue can be adopted and enjoyed,
models shown here range in price and style f if
the $17.00 portable Largo to the $85(10
custom-built Capitan De Luxe ... a few doll
or a few thousand dollars can be spent oi
barbecue, but anyone from a beachcomber
a billionaire can find one to his liking.
The Capitan De Luxe Combination Pit ly
the Anthony Bros., approximately 10 feet vie
with an 11 -foot chimney, features an out,
electric spit, gas griddle, fire pan, pot arm, d
a 25" adjusto grill. The Broadmoor, cusm
built by the Molded Brick Products Co., io
combination fireplace, rotisserie, and barbeie
with a table-top cupboard and a drink coole
The Hawk Barbecue Brazier in dull-black s;l
(both heat and rust resistant) has remove e
legs and a five square-foot cooking area, e
Largo charcoal broiler in copper is 10"n
diameter with a damper to control heat, o
cast-iron grates, and cast-brass legs and In-
dies. Yet another indoor and outdoor barbee
is the stainless steel Ajax which bastes an- N
matically and requires no watching.
The portable Patio Chef is an outdoor aln-
inum barbecue with a removable fire box wlh
may be raised or lowered. The Huntington pi-
able steel barbecue has a cone-shaped heaig
unit with a dropped grill, a removable grt'i
and an electrically turned spit.
BROADMOOR
i
A/ax features a vertical grill, electrically turned spits or
grates for a variety of foods. Barker Bros., Los Angeles.
Patio Chef has baked enamel iridescent finish, a firebox that
is easily raised or lowered. W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills.
39
Rattan in a versatile series of "packable" furniture ideal for home, apartment, or vacation.
Lightweight, portable, and inexpensive, the new Pakitan furniture de-
signed by Herbert Ritts of Los Angeles may be used with equal success
in the living and dining rooms of small bungalows or apartments . . .
in patios, playrooms, or dens of large homes . . . and for vacations,
in trailers or motor launches, in mountain cabins or beach houses.
Colorful and durable, Pakitan furniture is constructed of solid Philippine
rattan and fine-grained mahogany weldwood. The red, green, char-
treuse, natural, and brown seat covers are woven of indestructible
washable plastic. Designed to completely furnish a dining room and
living room, the eight pieces comprising the line include dinette, coffee,
and end tables as well as lounge or dinette chairs with or without
arms. The entire Pakitan set is constructed with simplicity and clarity
of line. The square dinette table and the triangular end table are
supported by straight rattan legs, the low coffee table by unique
rattan loops. Each piece is packed in an individual carrying-case
and can be assembled quickly and easily with a few screws ... or
folded up again and packaged for a trip!
Pakitan furniture designed by Herbert Ritts available at Barker Bros.,
Los Angeles; City of Paris, San Francisco; Bruener's, Sacramento.
FURNITURE
CARRY IN
YOU CAN
A PACKAGE
Here's exciting news for you in side and lounge chairs . . .
the Lightfoot Studio has introduced two revolutionary fea-
tures in their new model: the chair is assembled in one sim-
ple operation, and the terry cloth cover can be slipped off in
an instant to be laundered! Consisting of three simple parts
— fabric cover, one-piece seat and back, and a four-legged
base — the colorful chair is equally adaptable for use in-
doors or outdoors. Designed for maximum comfort, it has
a metal mesh seat and back cushioned in foam rubber one-
inch thick. As demonstrated in the sketches below, the chair
is speedily assembled with a screw and the form-fitting wash-
able terry cloth is fitted over the cushioning and held tightly
in place by elastic.
Lounge chair by Lightfoot; W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills;
J. W. Robinson Co., Los Angeles; Joske's, Houston.
FURNITURE YOU CAN WASH
OR RE-COVER IN A TRICE
41
T
UPS
FOR CALIFORNIA LIVING
u uu
BY HAZEL STALL
Timeless and timely are the trends
in California accessories for your home.
A combination of basic primitive lines
with classic and free forms provides an
unusual, beautiful blend. So although
your furnishings be period or ultra-mod-
ern, you'll find new California acces-
sories bring the right accents for color
and harmony to brighten your living.
1 . Jules of California's lamp, with
hand carved heavy wood base, in soft
pastel tones. Easy- to - combine free
form.
2. The simplicity and charm of Rip-
ple Ware, in this soft gray glaze with
gold ripples over deeply textured sur-
face. From the Bennetts of California.
3. Brockware's "Roseanna McCoy"
pattern, modern as tomorrow, in rich
navy blue frosted in cool white.
4. "Malay Blossom," with delicate
flower pattern hand-painted under
heavy glaze. An adaptation from the
traditional by Weil of California.
5. "Cherry," for gay table settings,
by Orchard Dinnerware. Matching pat-
terned table cloth from California
Hand Prints.
6. The MacConnell's charming
breakfast set, heavy glazed round
forms, colored pink cocoa with pink
lining. Designed for dining, Sody's nat-
ural Belgium linen round place mats.
7. Massive-based lamp with molded
Indian figures in relief, and Indian key
trim on shade. In natural glazed earth-
ern colors, by Modspe.
8. See-Mar's distinctive chartreuse
and coral lamp. Carving in relief on
ash base, linen shade in harmonizing
design.
9. "Nude Torso," ceramic lamp
with antique bronze finish, from the
original sculpture by S. J. Tye. Re-
Ward Ceramics.
10. Tony Hill's Aztec Indian design
is carried out in ceramic lamp base and
shade accent. In primitive colors of tur-
quoise and earth brown.
11. With the rich Renaissance col-
ors, this Majolica flower pattern on
crackleware, by Hartman Studio.
Newton-Walker's rough-textured cotton
place mats.
12. Semi-square by Winfield China,
in contemporary dinnerware. The new
"White Oats" pattern, delicately
traced.
,v§E(g
1 . Hill House creates free forms in bowl
and ashtray, classic vase. Softly shaded in
gray, over stone-finished base, with highlights
in Belgium red.
2. Plantmasters, hewn from crude natural
pumice stone, in blue-grey. Sponge-like qual-
ity holds water, insulates, keeps soil fresh.
The Aarco Company.
3. Hand-thrown plates and bowls in un-
usual art glazes, outstanding originals in de-
sign and color. By Arkayo.
4. Smilie Plastics' durable and distinctive
bowls and trays. Poured or molded of plas-
tic, translucent and bubbly, with real leaves
inset.
5. Santa Anita's ceramic "Lazy Susan,"
ten removable pieces, for leisurely dining. In
mission ivory, mist gray, California lime, siesta
yellow.
6. Gleaming brass centerpiece, to hold
two candles and your favorite flowers or
plants. With hand-turned wood base. By
Draves & Patterson.
7. Hand-turned wood "Lazy Susan," with
six bowls and removable center bowl. Rocky
Woodenware.
8. Sparkling highlights in polished copper
— hot and cold server, with 1 -quart pyrex
dish inset, and matching individual servers.
From Charles Cobleigh.
8
^.
mm
9. The pair of dancing figures and scroll-
patterned bowl in fine ceramics, from Rose-
land Pottery.
10. Wonderful freedom and motion typify
the abstract figurines by Hazel Hutchins. Each
of these modern ceramics is an original.
1 1 . Mayan and Aztec fragments, faithfully
reproduced in cast stone, in a limited series
from the original sculptures by Harold Fred-
erick Wilson. Kleinberg Brothers.
12. Marrell Studios' enameled copper
cigarette box, dish and bowl, with basic
Greek designs.
13. Serv-Rite, practical folding tray tables
for individual serving. Gaily patterned, by
Alexander-Wilson.
14. The Host-Mobile, removable glass
trays on this attractive chromium-plated a
purpose cart. From Hollywood Metal Products.
(If any of these items are not at your favorite de-
partment store, write The Californian.i
I
California is not the largest egg producing area in the
world. That we admit, though we hasten to add that we do
raise them by the million and cook them in hundreds of
ways. We also boast that Petaluma is known as "The egg
basket of the world" and though you may suspect that we
were nudged into that one by some Chamber of Commerce,
you can't deny that they do raise chickens there. The air
is white with feathers and loud with proud cacklings. And
those biddies have something to be proud of. Their product
is responsible for more myths, controversies, rituals, old
wives' tales and good eating than almost any other food
in the world.
One myth, common to many ancient peoples, was that a
mighty bird once laid an enormous egg and that that egg
became the earth. (Did you ever have the feeling of tread-
ing on eggs?) One controversy is the old one: which came
first, the hen or the egg? Plutarch, and a lot of others, took
this so seriously that they wrote learned treatises on the
subject. They arrived at the same inevitable conclusion:
who cares? One custom that has become world-popular is the
decorating of Easter eggs. There are many theories as to
how it all started, the true one probably being that eggs are
a symbol of rebirth, as is spring, and Easter. The tale I like
best, however, is that when, in the fourth century, the Church
banned the eating of eggs during Lent, the hens — the heretics
— continued to lay them. The thrifty housewives, in order
that they would keep, hard boiled them, and in order that
they could palm them off on their friends as Easter gifts,
they colored them and painted them with pretty designs.
One old wives" tale, started by Horace was "Choose eggs
oblong, they're sweeter than the round." One new wives' tale
is that hard boiled eggs should be called "hard cooked eggs,"
this being because eggs should be cooked in water just under
the boil. But I can hard-poach, hard-fry. hard-bake, even
hard-scramble an egg and so can you. Isn't that hard cooking?
One of these myths that does not amuse me is the one that
has grown up about the making of an omelette ... it is silly.
(When I say omelette I mean a French omelette, not the
high fluffy kind, the souffle omelette, that we find in so many
American kitchens.) They say that one has to go to France
to learn to make an omelette. They say that an omelette
pan should never be used for any other purpose, that it
should be made only of iron (or copper, or steel — they don't
agree), and that it should never be washed, merely scoured
out with salt. All this I once believed but I have learned
better. Anyone can learn to make an omelet with a little
practice. Any frying pan can be used (although I'll admit
that one with a fairly long handle and with curving sides is
the most satisfactory.) The pan can be used for anything
else — onions, fish, garlic — and it can be scoured in hot soapy
water. (Who's a heretic?) Once you've mastered the easy
technique of making an omelette you can vary it in any num-
ber of different ways . . . that's one reason a chef can claim
he knows thousands of ways to cook an egg.
a french omelette
Allow two eggs for each person and vary the size of the
pan with the size of the omelette. (A five or six inch pan for
a two or four egg omelette, a seven or eight inch one for
a six or eight inch omelette.) Have the pan scoured and
have it hot. Add salt and fresh ground pepper to your eggs
(you know how much) and beat them just enough to mix
the yolks and whites. Overheating will spoil an omelette so
it's safer to use a fork or a whisk than a beater. Now put
butter in the hot frying pan — a tablespoon will do for the
small pan — and when it melts tilt the pan so that the bot-
tom and part of the sides will he well laved, then dump in
the eggs all at once. Working quickly, give the pan a shake
or two then scrape all around the edges with a narrow spatula
or with a fork, loosening the mixture from the bottom and
tipping the pan so that the uncooked portion will run under
that which is already set. When all is cooked but a thin
moist layer on top. loosen the omelette by giving the handle,
near where it meets the pan. a sharp tap with one fist while
you hold the pan firmly with the other hand. Tip the pan
IT'S TIME FOR EASTER
AND FOR EGGS
CALIFORNI
away from you, give it a little encouragement with your
spatula, and it will practically fold itself. Have a hot platter
waiting and roll the omelette on to it by bringing the edge
of the pan to the edge of the platter and tipping the pan.
(Oh. for television!) There you have a culinary creation of
which you will be very proud — we hope. This basic omelette
becomes an omelette aux fines herbes when finely minced
parsley, chives and other herbs (usually tarragon) are added
to the eggs before cooking. It becomes a Spanish omelette
when a tomato sauce, highly seasoned and flecked with green
pepper and onion, is poured around it. A mushroom omelette
has some creamed mushrooms poured on before the omelette
is folded and some more surrounding it on the platter. Chicken
liver is a favorite omelette and rightly so. Clean the livers,
(one for each egg) and remove the gall. Saute them lightly
in butter then sprinkle on some flour (one tablespoon each
for every four livers) then add liquid (a half cup), either
cream, stock or wine, season, and cook for a minute or two
before folding into the omelette. For the seasoning try,
besides salt and pepper, some of that new tarragon seasoning
powder. It's freshly dried tarragon, powdered and mixed with
that much talked of flavor magic, monosodium glutamate, and
it's wonderful.
The early Spanish settlers in California were meat eaters
but they did cook eggs exquisitely when the occasion — such
as Lent — demanded. One of their best ways is
huevos rellenos
Here are stuffed eggs that are not eaten cold! Hard boil a
half dozen eggs, peel and cut in halves lengthwise, removing
the yolks. Mix the yolks with salt and pepper to taste, three
tablespoons of melted butter and a little cumin if you want
an authentic flavor. Replace the mixture in the whites, put
the pairs together and arrange on a baking wish. Cover with
46
Take Care of the Garments
that Take Care of Your Figure
New bare-as-you-dare fashions call for a whole new foundation
wardrobe — one that will give you maximum support and minimum
coverage for plenty of fun in the sun. Mild soap and warm
water add up to the easiest way we know to make your bras
and pantie girdles keep their elasticity and wear longer.
But you'll do more harm than good if you soak your garments
more than ten minutes. The dirt will become imbedded and the
fibers weakened. Get the soil out with a soft sudsy brush.
A few drops of your favorite cologne in the rinse water makes
for extra freshness on summer days. Never, never twist or
wring your girdles or bras. Simply wrap them in a turkish towel.
Then place the girdles flat to dry and hang the bras over the
clothes line. If you hang them by their straps or garters,
I they will lose their shape. Press them or not, just as you please,
!
i but don't touch the iron to the elastic parts. Be fresh-as-a-daisy
j with one to wear, one to spare, and two to wash!
' If you have a full womanly figure and would like personal
advice on how to select a brassiere to give you a more beautiful
bust-line, you may consult Cordelia's stylist who will be at
Bullock's, Los Angeles, April 18-23.
S 4
K*
Beverly Vogue Guppy Pants
Mam-zelle sun bra
A NEW VERSATILE TREND
can be worn four ways
ORDER BY MAIL
$25.00 postpald
ascuiim
IN THE CALIFORNIA CASUAL MANNER
THE CAREFREE VERTIBLE (T.M. Pat. Pent).), styled by Riviera of
California in finest quality rayon gabardine . . . sheen surfaced
. . . wrinkle resistant . . . Unidore finished . . . long wearing. Devo-
tion to detail and luxurious hand work . . . double stitched belt . . .
hand sewn buttons . . . French closed seams.
COLOR CHOICE of 9 wonderful California shades. FIT ASSURED
with 21 size combinations available: Long, Regular or Short in
Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 and 46.
TO: THE MARGORITA SHOP
1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please send me the Carefree Vertible jacket:
COLORS (Please indicate second color choice olso)
□ Cactus Beige □ Desert Sky Size
□ Palm Lemon □ Wagon Wheel Rust D Long
□ Date Cocoa □ Mojave Wine □ Regular
□ Canyon Brown D Salton Sea Navy Q Short
□ Soge Silver
(Name)
(Address)
(City, Zone ond State)
Check
Enclosed
a
Money Order
Enclosed
a
WHAT TO WEAR IN CALIFORNIA
IN APRIL
California has everything in April! . . . wild flowers that
bloom in the desert and up near Bakersfield . . . Easter, with
all its significant observances from outdoor sunrise services |
in the Hollywood Bowl or at Mt. Rubidoux . . . the post-
Lenten gaiety in town and at nearby Palm Springs resorts
. . . the fresh young spring in the mountains nearby.
Starting with your travel suit, you can build your wardrobe
around plans for your visit: a warm topper for evenings,
of course (and cool days you're sure to find) ... a raincoat
and galoshes for those spring showers . . . furs if you have
them.
Spring prints are a natural for this season of the year any-
where, and particularly in California. For the rest, bring
clothes you'll need to do the kind of things you like . . .
swim suits for the surf or your desert trek . . . shorts and
sun dresses and pedal pushers for your active days in the sun
. . . riding clothes, a
dinner dress if you plan
on any formal occasions
(although a cocktail dress
or suit will suffice for all
but the most elegant occa-
sions) .
Bring blouses and
sweaters galore, a pretty
scarf or two and hats to
vary the mood of your
basic suit.
WEATHER DATA
FOR APRIL
Los
Angeles
San
Francisco
Highest 81 82
Lowest 43 40
Average 60.2 55.7
Average total
rainfall 1.05 1.55
"FIND YOUR STAR"
Which Movie Star Are You Likef
Regardless of where or who you are, you
do look like a Movie Star. Let Thelma
Ray "FIND YOUR STAR," and learn
how that Star can be your style and
beauty guide.
Be as Glamorous as Your Star
Thelma Ray is one of Hollywood's leading
authorities on fashions and Movie Stars.
Let her help you. She gives personal
attention to every letter.
To "FIND YOUR STAR," send your
picture, age, occupation, height, weight,
color of eyes and hair, and $2.00 to
cover cost of research to:
THELMA RAY
"FIND YOUR STAR"
Box 413 Hollywood 28, Calif.
§
Italian
Snd French
Cuisine
P
I
PAUL
Your Host
Since 1 92a
l^tmitanOnat
| . 8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
i
i
t
50
THE C AL I FORN I AN, April, 1949
HERE'S THE CHAIR
that sheds its cover like a shirt!
The new Lightfoot "Univer-
sal"— perfect for indoors or
out— covered with Terry cloth
slip-on covers available in
6 different shades.
These covers:
y/ peel off for changing in less than
a minute
^ fit snugly as a glove with elastic
bound edges
■%/ wash easily as a towel
y' can be matched to any interior
Lifetime wrought iron base, dining table
height, with baked enamel finish. 5 year rust-
proof guarantee. Upholstered in wonder-soft
Goodye ar Airfoam rubber for all over comfort.
$25 with one cover. Your choice of red, yel-
low, green, brown, chartreuse, grey. Addition-
al covers $3.95 each.
If not available at your nearest furniture
dealer, send $25 and we will ship prepaid.
LIGHTFOOT STUDIO
450 SOUTH RAYMOND AVENUE, PASADENA, CALIF.
HINTS TO HANDLE YOUR COSMETIC BOTTLES
The opening of cosmetic and house-
hold bottles sometimes presents a
problem, so here are a few hints to
help. To handle bottles of nail polish,
paste or glue, let hot water run over
the tops for a few minutes. To open
small bottles, get a firm grip with a
nut cracker or screwdriver. For screw-
top lids, strike the head firmly with
a knife handle. If the bottle top is a
cork, rub a tiny bit of vaseline on
the cork for easy opening the next
time.
"Nails-are-Rite
with flnaetlte
BE POLISHED TO PERFECTION:
The "Fingerite" is like having a manicurist
in the family. Of crystal clear Lucite, Fin-
gerite provides grooved finger-tip rests, for
a "steadying influence" to make self mani-
cures, easier. Provides two adjustable tip-
proof holders for any well known polish.
And pretty enough for any dressing table.
$2 ppd.
EARLE OF CHATHAM, Inc.
332 SPRINGFIELD AVE., SUMMIT, N. J.
If you carry cosmetic bottles with
you on a trip, melt a few drops of
candle wax about the lid to seal it,
wrap it in cotton or paper and put in
a shoe. This protection will keep it
from banging around in your suitcase.
If you have a favorite perfume bot-
tle, but want to change perfumes, re-
move the original odor by half filling
with cold water, adding 1 tablespoon
of dry mustard and shaking vigorously.
Let it stand for l/o hour and then
rinse thoroughly.
SS.OO Express
S9.50 pair Collect
10" Mali, scat 12" x X"
handle 4JA" lona
Stolen from the barn where old-
timers used it for milking, the Drink-
ing Stool now sits wherever good
people gather ... by the fire, on the
patio, at the barbecue. From THE
OLD RED MILL, its wedged hard-
wood legs add sturdiness, its hand-
rubbed glow is a charm . . .
WANT A CATALOG?
Please send check or money order
CHARMERS
• Francestown
PAKITAN
. you CAN take it with you ,
PAKITAN is packaged rattan furniture
designed in the casual modern manner for multi-purpose use.
The individual pieces fit into porto-packages
for handy moving or storing.
Indoors or outdoors these lightweight
durable colorful pieces will blend
into smart arrangements. Anywhere,
PAKITAN will take a lot of punish-
ment, give a lot of useful service.
Two complete rooms . . about $275.
Hake home a box'
THE C A II FORN I AN, April, 1949
PAKITAN
•pat. pending copyright 1948 Ritti Co.
for dealer nearest you or complete information write:
RiMs Co., 8445 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles 46
Manufacturers of Tropicmode Furniture: TROPITAN, DURATTAN, PAKITAN.
51
. . . our new jacketed sun-back en-
semble . . of colorful striped chambray
. . . topped with a jaunty jacket of
frosty white Bates' PICOLAY! Sizes
7 to 15 . . . less than $13 everywhere
. . . for store nearest you, write
RITMOR SPORTSWEAR COMPANY, INC.
Cleveland 14, Ohio • New York 18, N.Y.
Represented by DAVE WIEDHOPF
9439 Sawyer St., Los Angeles
52
THE CAtlFORNIAN, April, 1949
IjRWOOD "MAGIC" BRUSH
irwood "MAGIC" Brush has an at-
, Natural Finish, Hardwood Back
•volutionary Sponge Rubber Pad (Re-
ile) and (Washable). The Slitest Ac-
icks up Hairs, Dust, Lint, Threads
y from any Fabric — Home and Car
ery — Velvet, Suede, Felt, etc., LIKE
| HOME NEEDS ONE
EVERY CAR OWNER NEEDS ONE
■ USEFUL, NOVEL, PRACTICAL GIFT
ITEM"
lfljl.00 to NATIONAL BUYER'S SERVICE
Ib32, Salem, Oregon. No C.O.D.'s,
II. Postpaid. Satisfaction Guaranteed.
ial new sharpener makes professional
ng a simple, foolproof process. A
larpener for home use that will give
inal results, without mechanical
ge. Guide slots automatically hold
e blade at the proper angle for cor-
rpening by fine tru-balanced corundum
II metal construction, with self-lubri-
Dronze bearing, sturdy polished and
steel crank shaft, assures a lifetime
>le-free service. Mounts easily for a
nt convenient installation.
Sent $3.25 Postpaid
RAL MERCHANDISING CO.
p|i\2
Victoria, Kansas
l|.KE ANY CARD TABLE A
NlNG TABLE
in 10 £eca+uk!
II is a 47" wide selected hardwood table
■jhot (its ony card table and doubles its
■ Accommodates 7 io 8 people in comfort.
■the thing for luncheons, dinners, games,
■oor meals. Won't slide or slip off card
■-Folds in half for easy storage. ALL
B*"; it is available in beautiful Mahogany,
►jut and Blond alcohol-resistant finishes.
$8.95 Express Collect.
No C.O.D.'s please.
ETZ & COMPANY
' ct. Phila. 43, Pa.
Helen Brown Reviews:
The Standard Wine Cook Book. By
Ann Director. Doubleilav & Co., Inc.
$2.75
It's difficult to realize that only 15
years ago it was unusual — almost im-
possible— to find the use of wine in
the average American kitchen. It was
the 18th Amendment that did it. While
men and women blithely and uncon-
cernedly broke a law they thought most
stupid, they broke it for the sake of
a cocktail made with canned grapefruit
juice and bath-tub gin, or for some
smuggled brandy that they had to have
for their Christmas pudding; not for
the flavor of wine that would have
added charm to so many dishes or for
the glass of wine that could have saved
so many meals from mediocrity. In-
deed, their palates became so benumbed
by bootleg liquor that good wine —
for either eating or drinking — would
have been wasted on them. That era
saw American gastronomy at its lowest
ebb, and if you don't believe it, look
at the articles on cookery and the cook
books that were published during pro-
hibition. But that's all over, thank
goodness, and though it took the vine-
yards, the vintners, and the gastro-
nomes a long time to recover, they
have, completely . . .
Today it is the indifferent cook who
fails to use wine in her cooking —
even in her everyday cooking. Ann
Director, whose name really is Direc-
tor, is the director of consumer in-
formation for "The country's largest
producer of wines." What she has done
in this valuable book is to take the
mystery out of the use of wines in
the kitchen and the service of wines
at the table. Under her guidance the
use of wine becomes a natural, whole-
some, everyday affair, without pretense,
but with plenty of pleasure for all.
The book begins with a clear, but not
cumbersome, discussion of the various
wines and how they are usually served.
The recipes in this book include dishes
for every course. Just as an idea: —
wine giblet soup, wine French dress-
ing, red cabbage in wine, mushrooms
in sherry, bouillabaisse, crab meat New-
burg, beef casserole Burgundy, pot
roast of venison, oxtail stew, sherry
custard, wine fruit compote, and many
other dishes. These recipes will initiate
the novice into the use of wine in the
kitchen. It will teach old cooks new
tricks, too.
The Fish and Game Cook Book. By
Harry T. Botsford, Cornell Maritime
Press. 290p.p. $3.00.
Harry Botsford's collection of game
recipes is fun — fun to try and fun to
read about. The recipes have personal-
ity— or perhaps it's the personality of
the author and his friends who are so
wise in the ways of the kitchen. There
is pleasant chit-chat about food, with
the recipes done in a rather rambling
but appetite-provoking manner. The
same recipes appear in the back of the
book in a format more appealing to
the hurried cook. This makes it a book
for both those who like to read about
food and those who want to take their
recipes straight (and. believe me, there
have developed two schools of thought
on this subject, since it has become
fashionable to envelop books on cook-
ery with character sketches, anecdotes,
and even love stories ! )
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting.
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching.
Modeling. Day and Evening classes.
-•-'ogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood & Oliver
Ave.
Pittsburgh.
Pa.
Atlantic 3855
OLD
GOLD
Wanted
BROKEN
JEWELRY
All kinds. Highest
cash prices for jew-
elry, rings, spectacles, gold teeth,
diamonds, broken and usable
watches, sterling, etc. Prompt re-
mittances. Satisfaction guaranteed.
WRITE FOR FREE
SHIPPING CONTAINER
LOWE'S oep, a
Holland Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
FOOT SCRAPER
^<w *7o«<* <Utd @owtfruf
Keep that difi and mud off your rugi and floor* with ihu very
lennble fool scraper Made of heavy, wrought metal Ver>
Postpaid on receipt of your check for
$150
No C.O.D's.
Irving Manufacturing Co.
607 West 3th St.
Kumoi City. Mo.
Brighten up your home!
FERNERY — Special at S9.95
An exquisitely fashioned metal fernery with
removable rust-resisting, leak-proof liner.
Stands 29 inches high and is approximately
20 inches wide. In baked-on white enamel
with white or gold liner. Also available in
verde green or Swedish iron with liner to
match. Specify your choice. Satisfaction guar-
anteed. Sent express collect for $9.95 to
Dept. 22-A.
Kayson's, Inc. EVANSVILLE4, IND.
LOOK YOONGER
as You Grow Older
OiMldHltilM
A PROVEN SCIENTIFIC
FACIAL TREATMENT
AND
PLEASANT NON-SURGICAL
REJUVENATION and FACE LIFT
(1) REMOVES blackheads, white heads, and
tissue debris.
(2) CORRECTS enlarged, clogged pores, dry
skin, oily skin, sallowness, and blem-
ishes.
(3) CLEARS the skin of acne and pimples.
(4} SMOOTHES wrinkles, and erases facial
lines.
(5) TIGHTENS sagging cheeks and double
chins.
(6) INCREASES circulation and tissue nutri-
tion.
(7) VITALIZES nerve, gland, muscle and
skin structure.
(8) RESTORES natural, lovely skin.
Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest
you:
Alhambra 2021 Primrose Ave.
Belmont Shore - 203 Glendora Ave.
Berkeley 1762 Solano Ave.
3173 College Ave.
Fresno 3097 Tulare St.
Hollywood 1627 N. Cahuenga Blvd.
Glendale 1123 N. Brand Blvd.
Long Beach 742 Pine Ave.
Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd.
900 S. Norton Ave.
Modesto -322 Burney St.
North Hollywood 12131 Riverside Dr.
Oakland 1 225 Broadway
Pasadena 258 S. Las Robles Ave.
Pomona 200 E. Center St.
San Francisco 150 Powell St.
San Jose Suite 459, Porter Bldg.
San Mateo 318 B. Street
Santa Ana 405l/„ N. Broadway
Santa Ana 405Vj N. Broadway
Santa Monica 2719-E Santa Monica Blvd.
ulMMmm.
Airilo
ALUMINUM
The Perfect Awning
For Patio, Porch, Windows, Doors
Permanent vear 'round protection against sun
and rain. No tearing, no repairing, no re-
painting, no replacing. Your first cost is
the last. Custom made to fit, baked-on en-
amel color to match the trim of your home.
Easy to clean. Payments arranged.
ZeINrC'°N_. Mail Coupon
AIRFLO ALUMINUM AWNING CO.
484S W. Jefferson Blvd., Los Angeles 16, Cal.
Name
Address
City State
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
53
■«>
ORIGINAL PRINTS . . .
. . . each hand-signed and produced by
the artist in his studio. Originally designed
and hand-painted on the screens, to assure
quality and artistic effect.
This print, "Sandra," with its warm colors
on gray toned background, is remarkably
like a pastel sketch, a beautiful addition to
any home.
Handsomely framed in modern receding mold-
ing, hand-wiped in gray to repeat the tones
of the picture.
Mounted and matted, ready for framing,
18x22 $ 7.50
Framed, 18x22 $22.50
Send check or money order, no C.O.D.'s, ex-
press prepaid, to
GEORGE A. BEYER
726 South 1 0th St., Minneapolis 4, Minn.
It takes only 5 Minutes to
CONVERT ANY OPEN COIL
SPRING INTO A DIVAN
OR HOLLYWOOD STYLE
BED with 4 DENNIX LEGS
Put them on without tools. Just slide
leg on and tighten thumb screws.
Smooth, genuine hardwood with fur-
niture finish in mahogany,
walnut, maple or blonde.
Set of 4
Check or money order ( no COD,
please). Money refunded in 10 days
if not satisfied. We pay postage
JORE Distributors and Co., Dept.M.
17 East 42nd Street. N. Y. 17, N. Y.
OLD-FASHIONED
DELIGHT . . .
is this adorable pot-bellied stove.
It's cast metal with a bronze fin-
ish, and makes a precious planter
or ash tray . . . stands about 6"
high on any little nook or table.
Menfolks will like it, too, and it'll
cause plenty of comments with its
precious antique-y look. Just $2.50
postpaid, plus iVi % tax in Cali-
fornia, 3 % in Los Angeles. Your
orders are promptly filled by Fred
L. Seymour Company, Box 1176,
Beverly Hills, Calif.
FOR FATHER'S DAY . . .
he'll be delighted with this
Razorbank, ingeniously contrived
to hold dozens of used razor
blades. He'll like the amusing
face, and^ the cute verse inside,
too. 4" high, compactly designed
to fit on the bathroom shelf, and
arranged for re-fills. This clever
ceramic container makes an ap-
pealing and practical gift for the
men in your family. Razorbank is
just $1.50 postpaid, from
The Margorita Shop
1018 South Main Street,
Los Angeles 15, Colif.
Miniature
spinning HUljrds
Mil
An attractive ornament for your home and
an interesting gift. This miniature spin-
ning wheel stands 15" high with a 5%"
wheel. Expertly handmade from choice
woods.
It costs only $12.50 Postpaid.
No C.O.D.'s please
THOMAS NOVELTY CO.
[ ^hl
792 Maple Ave. Glen Rock, N. J.
i IMAGINE! i
The expression of delightful satis-
faction from your most cherished
friends, when opening this attractive
redwood box and tasting the delicious
flavor, the mouth-watering goodness
of these sweeter California sun-ripened
fruits. Tasty pears, apricots, peaches,
dates, figs, cherries and nut meats.
Packed fresh and mailed on date
specified. The perfect gift for Easter,
Mother's Day, Birthdays, Anniver-
saries, etc.^ 2J/i Jbs. select California
Fruits mailed in U.S.A. for only
$3.95, postpaid. Check or money or-
ders accepted. Address: PASA "DEL
ORO RANCHO, DEPT. 10, P.O.
BOX 1004. Modesto, Calif,
(Write for complete color folder. )
54
California In Books
by hazel alien pulling
Old newspapers ... In the story be-
hind those musty papers lies the record
of a people's life. More than all else,
a city's newspaper is the city; its
progress reflects the city's progress as
its pages reflect the city itself.
That is what John Bruce, City Editor
of the San Francisco Chronicle, knew
when he underook to write the history
of his city's last hundred years through
the medium of its press. What he found
he characterized as "gaudy" and from
that term devised the title of his re-
cently published book, Gaudy Century
(Random House. 302p. $3.75). For in
the history of San Francisco's old
newspapers he found reflected the gay
expansiveness, the devil-may-care-but-
let's-succeed mood that was San Fran-
cisco's in her first century of existence.
Vital, bustling, violent at times, at
other times tender and thoughtful, San
Francisco stands revealed through the
story of her journalistic ventures and
the record of the men who fought for
top positions in the field. It's a story
that is lively, readable, and entertain-
ing and a valuable addition to the an-
nals of Californiana.
If John Bruce has caught San Fran-
cisco's past, another of the Chronicle's
journalists has caught its present in a
book equally as fascinating. Robert
O'Brien, who writes the popular col-
umn, "Riptides," for that paper, has
given us This Is San Francisco (Whit-
tlesey House. 351p. $3.75). This book
is an interpretation of the great west-
ern city through the eyes and heart of
one who knows and understands her
well, and who, in prose that verges at
times upon poetry, has captured the
essence as well as the reality of the
city as it is today. Here is San Fran-
cisco in sight, sound, and smell, as
street after street, haunt after haunt,
is revealed and interpreted. Here are
historic characters whose memories lin-
ger on through tangible evidence of
their once having lived; here are old
buildings, ship's docks, and roadways
that once comprised the city's present
but which now lend themselves only
as mute, colorful manifestations of the
city's past; here are the hurry and
haste of a busy, modern city that lives
in the present but that does not forget
the past, for, as Robert O'Brien so
convincingly shows, San Francisco's
past is a large part of San Francisco's
today. This Is San Francisco is a com-
bination history and travel book that
merits a place on your book shelves.
For the historically minded traveller,
an indispensable item is Hoover and
Rensch's Historic Spots in California
(Stanford University. 411p. $5.00),
newly revised by Ruth Teiser. An in-
troduction by Robert Glass Cleland
gives the book a fitting setting for the
historical notes on each county's chief
points of interest. The selected bibliog-
raphies of historical and travel books
which conclude each section and the
extensive index to places, spots, and
persons add to the book's intrinsic value
and to its worth as a ready reference
tool.
Centennial publications seem cur-
rently to emphasize San Francisco, for
here's another one about that city by
the sea. Herb Caen and Max Yavno
have recently released their The San
Francisco Booh (Houghton. $5.00).
This is a small book designed for
the traveller, composed mostly of illus-
trations by Max Yavno which are, how-
ever, tied to the thread of a breezy,
charmingly written text by Herb Caen.
This is a book that the visitor will
wish to take home with him as a happy
reminder of days spent in this vacation
city.
mJ>
£m
■*li'*>
BASKETS FROM ACROSS 1
BORDER
HELP TO KEEP YOUR Hj
IN ORDER!
The gayest of waste baskets from
approximately 10 inches high.
Postpaid each $1.00
3 for $2.75 — 6 for $5.00
TEEPEE TRADERS
GAttUP
NEW ,<
BO-PEEP
For a BRIGHT CORJ>;
Filled with plants or flowers this g
ing solid brass i ardinere is magniT
Decorators will delight in this rare
shape styled from Colonial gallery,
jestically mounted on sturdy lion's
Water-tight, with regal lion's _ head
dies. Finished to stay bright, it me
10 inches long and 4 inches high. ]
diate shipment.
SATISFACTION GUARANTFJ
Mail Order Only
$5.95 each postpaid in U. i
Send check or money order to
/InicWG^t Gonp&uUtoi
MIAMI 38, FLORIDA
by
Pameliia
SHEER BEAL'I
FOR
SHAPELY Hll'l
Flattering I
lace trim I
perky bowl
modest I
imum in 1|
or white.
.9
Send hip i
urements.
elude check
order. Sorr
C.O.D. We
pay at oui
pense.
Pamela
BOX 23'
MELROSE
MASS.
THE CALIFORNIAN, April, 1949
'THE NEW MAM'ZELLE IN HALF SIZES!
^catafe cZ~o<^Med 'art
Jt##4 fa&.
the new MAM'ZELLE
At all fine
stores throughou
t the country .
. . and in
the west:
CALIFORNIA
San Francisco
- All better stores
Albambra:
Ann Abbott
San Jose: Thelma Richardson
Griswold's
San Luis Ob
spo.
Rue Mae
Atascadero:
The Topper Shop
San Pedro:
Furst's
Bakersfield:
Weill's
Santa Ana:
Rankin's
Balboa:
Vagabond House
Smith
Corset Shop
Berkeley: J
F. HInks & Co.
Sanfa Barbara
Jack Rose
1. Magnin
Beverly Hills
Alexander s
Santa Clara:
May's Shop
Bishop:
Fashion Shoppe
Santa Cruz:
Reaume's
Calexico:
Irene's
Santa Maria:
Mae Moore
Chico:
Belle's Apparel
Santa Monica
Campbell's
Cornell's
Colton:
Adele's
Santa Rosa:
Rosenberg's
Compion:
Helen s
Seal Beach:
Frosty' s
Polka Dot Shop
Brown House
Escondido:
Eden Style Shop
The Wonder
Fresno:
Esther Bobo
Studio City:
Isabelle's
Specialty Shop
L. L. Lewis
Taft:
Lerrain's
Fullerton:
Edna McMaster
Temple City:
Leora Blessinger
Glendale:
Morrell's
Tujunga:
Mayda Dee
Laura's
Tulare:
Bettey's Shop
Han ford:
Mirviss
Upland:
Peggy Jeanne's
Hollywood:
Van Nuys:
Laity's
Broad way -Hollywood
Huntington Park: Frances Fern
Indio: The Town Shop
tnglewood: Ann Abbott
Kingsburg: Trabing's
Laguna Beach: Deauville Shop
La Jolla: Jorgenson's
Long Beach: Klmberlin Shop
Columbia Outfitters
Leora Marie
Los Angeles: All better stores
Modesto: Higgins Corset Shop
Monrovia.- Bain's
National City: Ethel's
North Hollywood: Rathbun's
Kay-Ru
Oakland: All better stores
Ocean Beach: Veda Moss
Oceanside: The Chic Shop
Ontario: Musette
Oxnard: Dolly Brigham
Palm Springs: Stegman
Palo Alto: Joseph Magnin
Pasadena: All better stores
Light's
Rolline's
Slick Chic Shop
The Harris Co.
Rene's
Hamel
Bon Marche
The Corset Shop
San Bernardino: Florence
Hatch The Harris Co.
San Diego: Chic-lta's
Jeanne's Shop
The Marston Co.
San Fernando-.
Valley Sport Shop
Ventura:
Visalia:
West wood:
Whittier:
Jack Rose
The Grace Shop
Bullock's
Vitty's Corset Shop
Edna McMasters
COLORADO
Colo. Springs: Gidding's
Denver: All better stores
Pueblo: C. C. Anderson
NEVADA
Las Vegas: Bain's
Johnson's
Reno.- Joseph Magnin
Kay Nichols
OREGON
Corvalis: Georgann's
Eugene-. Russell's
McMinnville: Helen's Fashion
Medford: Adrienne's
Portland. Chas. F. Berg
Salem: Miller Merc.
UTAH
Fred M. Nye Co.
E. D. Firmage
C. M. I.
MakofT's
is ''precisely"
for you.
in f /AeczJ&Mfwl
Made
— not just four basic cups — but 7 in alt sizes
(A-AV2-B-By2-C-Cy2-D).
Especially if you're an "in-between" size, you can
now find a Mam'zelle to fit you perfectly . . . give you
perfect contour molding — without alterations. *
No custom made brassiere could fit ybu better.
Designed by Madame Suzanne Reaares, famous
Parisian corsetiere, Mam'zelle incorporates the *
patented "Cross-Lift" construction and bias cup that
make it the most beautiful, most flattering
and best fitting brassiere.
Mam'zelle's lovely fabrics are guaranted pre-shrunk.
You can't "wash out" the shape of a Mam'zelle.
Visit One of These Many Fine Stores Today
for a MAM'ZELLE FITTING
In all colors and materials:
from $2.50 to $5.00
MAM'ZELLE BRASSIERES, 6558 Santa Monica Boulevard, Hollywood 38, California
THE CALIF0RNIAN, April, 1949
55
- l J .
Amazing— how this Dan River cotton sheds wrinkles
* . ; It's Wrinkl-Shed* Dancord — practically refuses to wrinkle, stays crisp
, for~days, gives more wear between washings. Fast color, Sanforizedf — typical of the fabric
innovations that come your ivay under the Dan River label.
*Trade Mark
1 Fabric shrinkage no more than 1%
DAN RIVER MILLS, INC., Danville, Va.
New York Sales Office: 40 Worth St., New York 13, N
*«***
m
IT'S A
DAN RIVER
WRINKL-SHED
COTTON
iaSSSsSr,- V//A
A MAGAZINE STYLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
PRICE 35 CENTS
MAY, 1949
Directoire Prints
on
Mallinson's
rayon
Rusteena *
NATIONAL MALLINSON FABRICS CORPOR'O
1071 AVENUE OF THE AMERICAS. NEW YC 1
CHICAGO. SEATTLE. LOS ANGELES. SAN FRAN |
a
<n
is
^-»*.
FOR FATHER FROM CALIFORNIA
The Zip Over is Maurice Holman's newest inno-
vation in washable Polo Shirts. Made of the finest
interlock long staple combed cotton.
Newly styled with Fly Front zipper. This shirt is
made of the heaviest weight available — the finest
quality at any price. All basic colors are fast de-
veloped dyes. Retails $3.95.
ASK YOUR NEAREST MEWS Store or
The Zip Over
For further information, write
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
«ycc$_ 945 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 15, California
3
i^aliJj
:oFnia iroppy
Pc
A vibrant hand-printed Celanese Prospector front
. . . the back of dull satin Lastex for
smooth slimming. A Catalina Convertible*, $15.00.
*can be worn with or without straps.
LOOK FOR THE
FLYING FISH
For Illustrated Booklet of Other Catalina Styles, Write — Catalina, Inc.
Dept. 631 ■ 443 South San Pedro Street • Los Angeles 13, California " *Reg.
«, Gtytaw ClA&li
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1*49
Contour Magic
FOR EVERY AGE — EVERY SIZE
IN CONTROL-LIFT BRASSIERES
BY T@ObctelUl OF HOLLYWOOD
To Cordelia, famous designer of Hollywood, there is no such thing
as a "problem bust." Cordelia creates beautiful contours where
only unattractive lines formerly appeared. In the Cordelia line of
surgical and corrective brassieres, there are over 600 different
fittings — each one de-
signed to "do things" for
you. In long-line styles
(as illustrated) sizes
range from 32 to 56+.
You'll like the exquisite
fabrics Cordelia uses,
too — fine jacquards,
broadcloths,and nylons
...all in styles designed
to create new contour
beauty for the lady
with a figure problem.
Cordelia creates for the young woman too — recognizing that even
young women frequently have figure problems. Cordelia's 600-plus
individual fittings include all the youthful sizes, in all the newest and
most desirable fabrics, in the season's popular shades — nude, white,
or black. Cordelia brassieres are available at all better department
stores and specialty shops. If your nearest dealer doesn't appear
below — write for name of the store nearest you featuring:
o^vc^elccc
OF HOLLYWOOD
CREATORS AND MANUFACTURERS OF SURGICAL AND CORRECTIVE BRASSIERES
CALIFORNIA
Alma's Corset Shop
San Bernardino, Calif.
American Orthopedic Supply Co.
Los Angeles, California
Ames & Harris
Santa Maria, Calif.
Anderson's Specialty Shop
Susanville, Calif.
Barcley Surgical
Long Beach, Calif.
Thelma Bernasky
Chula Vista, Calif.
Bettye's Corset Shop
Tulare, Calif.
Leora Blessinger
Temple City, Calif.
Boehm's
San Mateo, Calf.
Broadway-Hollywood Dept.
Store
Hollywood, Calif.
Bullock's
Los Angeles, Calif.
Kay Burt
Burlingame, Calif.
The California Shop
Santa Barbara, Calif.
Grace Campbell Shops
San Francisco, Calif.
Bee Case Knit Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Cortland's
Los Angeles, Calif.
Oavok, Inc.
Los Angeles, Calif.
Deauviile Shoppe
Laguna Beach, Calif.
Del's Lingerie Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Corel's
Berkeley, Calif.
The Duchess
Van Nuys, Calif.
Thelma Edmunds
Alhambra, Calif.
Esther's Shop
Richmond, Calif.
Fashionefte
Compton, Calif.
Jean Floberg
Vallejo, Calif.
Gilda's Ladies Apparel
Mt. Shasta City, Calif.
Glamour Gauge Maternity
Huntington Park, Calif.
Mrs. Althea V. Godfrey
Ventura, Calif.
Grace Shop
Visalia, Calif.
Alfred Fray
Pomona, Calif.
Cavanaugh Surgical Co.
San Jose, Calif.
Cooper's Dept. Store
Fresno, Calif.
Cornell's
Santa Monica, Calif.
Corset Shop
Sacramento, Calif.
Corset World
Los Angeles, Calif.
The Harris Co.
San Bernardino, Colif.
Higgin's Corset Shop
Modesto, Calif.
Hi 1 1 man Corset Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
J. F. Hink
Berkeley, Calif.
C. H. Hittenberger Co.
San Francisco, Calif.
C. H. Hittenberger Co.
Oakland, Calif.
Hollywood Maternity Shop
Hollywood, Colif.
Holman's
Pacific Grove, Calif.
The Cosette Shop
1425 S. Robertson Blvd.
Los Angeles, Calif.
Hunter's Medical Supplies
Richmond, Calif.
Laura Green Co.
Glendale, Calif.
N. J. Hall Orthopedic
Los Angeles, Calif.
John Haller Surgical Service
Los Angeles, Calif.
Hamel's Ladies' Shop
Riverside, Calif.
Pearl Hancock Corset
Bakersfield, Calif.
Lupi's
Beverly Hills, Calif.
McCray Garment Co.
Huntington Park, Calif.
McElfresh's
Covina, Calif.
McGaffey Girdle Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Francis Mahler Corset
Salinas, Calif.
The Marston Co.
San Diego, Calif.
Mary's Sport Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Maternity Modes of Calif.
Los Angeles, Calif.
Maternity Yours
Los Angeles, Calif.
T. W. Mather Co.
Pasadena, Calif.
Kay Ru
North Hollywood, Calif.
Keep and Weidenfeld
Burlingame, Calif.
Kimball & Stone
Bakersfield, Calif.
The Knights
Studio City, Calif.
Kruger Surgical Apparel
Beverly Hills, Calif.
Mimi Lang
Los Angeles, Calif.
Samuel Leask & Sons
Santa Cruz, Calif.
Lei berg's
Pasadena, Calif.
Livingstone's
Beverly Hills, Calif.
Louise Corset Shop
Sacramento, Calif.
Kay Nichols
Palo Alto, Calif.
Page Boy Maternity Shop
San Francisco, Calif.
Thelma Richardson
San Jose, Colif.
Jack Rose
Santa Barbara, Calif.
Village Corset Shop
Sacramento, Calif.
Guadalupe Dress Shop
Guadalupe, California
Medico Drug
San Rafael, Calif.
John Metzger Co.
Long Beach, Calif.
Mildred's
Los Angeles, Calif.
Milady's Bazaar
Glendale, Calif.
Mommy Modes
Sacramento, Calif.
Morris & Morrill Co.
San Francisco, Calif.
Morton's Surgical Co.
Stockton, Calif.
Myers Dept. Store
Whittier, Calif.
National Baby & Corset Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Kay Nichols
San Francisco, Calif.
Page Boy Maternity Shop
Los Angeles, Calif.
Page Boy Maternity Shop
Pasadena, Calif.
Riley's Dry Goods
San Luis Obispo, Calif.
Sperry Corset Shop
Modesto, Calif.
Wilshire Carthay Corset
Los Angeles, Calif.
CORDELIA OF HOLLYWOOD • 3107 BEVERLY- BOULEVARD • LOS ANGELES 4, CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
I
Half-Note... You'll he a
ful, lighthearted little half-note
in your half-size sheer, clrapeJ
to give you long slender lines.
Sizes UH to 24^ . . $12.95
S H E E E
Moonlight Sonata. ..You'll hit
a high fashion note for summer,
wearing lauy-liRe printed sneer
with new Empire neckline. Smart,
siy.es 16 to 44 . . .' $10.95
The
wi n'MjjMA
SWIM SUIT
tea dv Cole ot California
guided to fieriection by the famous motion picture swimming
star who tested it from every angle . . . camera, action. Trie result
is a completely acjua-and-Jsnoto-genic suit tliat, wet or dry,
hugs but never hambers. In navy, cherry, white, green, and tan.
Swim Shop, Fourth Floor Sizes 3<2 td.40, 17.95
,CUlAtf>t
'VWb
>Mw\
Vol. 7
No. 4
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U.S.A. Yearly sub-
scription price $3.00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office, Los Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879.
MAY
1949
(Mama, 3&aZ$#taa/-
CO HAM A
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS. INC.
oCtrwps
Washaday rayons
Never a dull moment for clothes of
these wearable, washable Cohama
fabrics. Toss them in tub or washing
machine. Out they come crisp and
fresh. Guaranteed color fast (even in
160° water), shrinkage controlled.
Each fabric available in 20 colors. At
the fabric counters of better stores.
You'll find Cohama's
Washaday Rayons
at these (and other)
leading stores:
R. H. Macy New York,
R. H. Macy San Francisco, H
Carson Pine Scott & Co Chica< i,
The May Company.... Los Angeles, H
Stix Baer and Fuller St. Lou Mg
Rich's, Inc AtlantH
Woodward & Lothrop.. Washington (
Kauf menu's Depl. Store.... Pi tts b u r\ pa
The Bon Marche Seattle, ■
Milwaukee Boston Store
Milwaukee,
The John Shillito Company
Cincinn
Zion's Cooperative Mercantile
Institute Salt Lake City
Loveman Joseph and Loeb
Birmingham
John Gerber Company.. ..Memphis,
E. Gottschalk & Co Fresno,
Walker's Long Beach,
Kahn's Oakland,
Weinstock-Lubin Sacramento,
Olds-Wortman-King Portland
Spokane Dry Goods Company
Spokane,
Rhodes Bros Tacomo,
Vaughn-Raahasdale Company
Billings,
B E AUT I E S
Polonaise. . .Your heart will
dance when you wear your
new white organdy- trimmed,
flower-patterned sheer. Sizes
Summer Song . . . Sing a song
or Paris in this lovely Bemherg
sheer with I opera print ana
Parisicn ne-piunge neckline.
Sizes 10 to 20 . . $10.95
Rhapsody. . .lour admirers will
sing a summer rhapsody or you,
wearing this startling sheer with
gathered pcplum, wide black pat-
ent Lclt. 10 to 20 . . $10.95
JO to 20
$10.95
Lovely as moonlight through Grecian columns ... cool
as your forehead against marble ... light as music — our collection of high
fashion Lacly Alice Bemhergs for a sneerly beautiful sumrriea
J A L I C E OF CALIFORNIA • 75 FREMONT STREET • SAN FRANCISCO 5, CALIFORNIA
' — "- —
IN THIS GREAT FACTORY ARE MADE
THE MOST EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES
AND CLOCKS IN ALL THE WORLD
le(oultre
Generation after generation, for over a century, Vacheron
& Constantin-Le Coultre, with infinite skill, have created
the world's most unusual watches and clocks. The same
scientific precision which distinguishes these remarkable
timepieces goes into every product of this great factory.
WORLD'S MOST COMPLEX
watch, a split-second chrono-
graph, chimes hourly, tells day,
date, month, moon phase, $4200.
WORLD'S THINNEST watch has
movement only .0531 of an incl
thick — one of many Le Coultn
unusual watch "firsts.'* $1410
CLOCK THAT LIVES ON Al R— "Atmos" is not wound by hand or
electricity but by temperature changes . A scientific miracle, "Atmos"
approaches man's long-sought dream of "perpetual motion." 8315
WORLD'S SMALLEST watch features CIGARETTE-PACK-SIZETravelette"' MOON PHASE watch, showing SELF-WINDING automatic
74-part movement in platinum case only 2-day alarm, rose-bronze. $22.75. Other hour, day, date, month and watch, first with dial showing
Ys inch wide by "y£ inch long. $1500 travel clocks in fancy leathers to §125. phases of the moon, brought reserve running time. Gold-
Le Coultre early fame. $150. filled, $71.50; 14K gold, $150.
LAKME. 14K CABOT. Gold MELISANDE. Gold MARINER. Steel PRINCESS ELIZABETH'S wedding gift from Swiss Government
Gold, 17 jewels. filled, 17 jewels. filled, 17 jewels, case, 17 jewels. was this unique diamond bracelet-watch. Made to order by Vacheron
S9S.O0. $71.50. 171.50. $62.50. & Constantin-Le Coultre with bracelet of 32 matched links.
VACHERON & CONSTANTIN-LE COULTRE
Watches & Clocks Made Continuously Since 1785 An Prkes ,ndude Federal Tax
A DIVISION OF LONGINES-WITTNAUER WATCH COMPANY, INC-
F I
7
RST ON YOUR <zzSl
It
PARADE
! h e modern
n
California
i ii c in u u e i n ^_>^
p ci 11 d c>/r ci
•_-t-e__
.
Your alluring uplift is enhanced by the made-to-measure look of Pandora's clever over-bra fit. Left Slip: — nylon
crepe by Pedigree. Pre-shrunk. Heatset. Delicate nylon shadow embroidery trim. About $7.00. Right Slip: — all
nylon, including alencon-type lace, straps, thread. Non-run tricot jersey in a smooth-fitting 6-gore pattern . . .
About $8.00 . . . Gown.- — Pedigree's multifilament crepe, glamorously lacy . . . About $9.00 at finer stores.
CHIC LINGERIE CO., INC., 1126 SANTEEST., LOS ANGELES 15, CALIF.*
^afeinmfl Cwc^rt'
HE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
11
ARIZONA
Goldwater's, Inc., Phoenix
ARKANSAS
M. M. Conn Co., Little Rock
CALIFORNIA
Bullock's, Los Angeles
Weinstock, Lubin & Co.,
Sacramento
Marston Co., San Diego
The Emporium, San Francisco
COLORADO
Kaufman's, Colorado Springs
Daniels & Fisher Stores Co.,
Denver
CONNECTICUT
G. Fox & Co., Hartford
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
TheHecht Co.,
Washington, D. C.
FLORIDA
Cohen Bros., Jacksonville
Burdine's, Inc., Miami
Dickson Ives Co., Orlando
GEORGIA
Davison, Paxon Co., Atlant,
ILLINOIS
Carson, Pirie Scott & Co.,
Chicago
INDIANA
L. S. Ayres & Co., Inc.,
Indianapolis
LOUISIANA
D. H. Holmes Co. Ltd.,
New Orleans
MARYLAND
Hochschild, Kohn & Co.,
Baltimore
MASSACHUSETTS
Jordan, Marsh Co., Boston
Albert Steiger Co., Springfield
MICHIGAN
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit
Paul Steketee & Sons,
Grand Rapids
MINNESOTA
Dayton Co., Minneapolis
MISSOURI
Harzfeld's, Kansas City
NEW YORK
J. N. Adam & Co., Buffalo
B. Altman & Co., New York
Siuley, Lindsay & Curr Co.,
Rochester
OHIO
Halle Bros. Co., Canton
H. & S. Pogue Co., Cincinnati
Halle Bros. Co., Cleveland
F. & R. Lazarus Co., Columbus
OKLAHOMA
Kerr's, Inc., Oklahoma City
Seidenbach's, Tulsa
OREGON
Meier & Frank Co., Portland
PENNSYLVANIA
Bowman & Co., Harrisbnrg
Bonwit Teller & Co.,
Philadelphia
Joseph Home Co., Pittsburgh
RHODE ISLAND
Gladding's, Inc., Providence
TEXAS
Neiman-Marcus Co., Dallas
The Fashion, Houston
WASHINGTON
Frederick & Nelson, Inc.,
Seattle
The Spokane Dry Goods Co.,
Spokane
HAWAII
Liberty House, Honolulu
S//-/// T///S /S T//£ WAY TO tOOK
Mother, Pigtailer and Water Baby— three charmers in their three-of-a-kind
Cole swimsuits. The fabric, a fine cotton broadcloth, is printed by
Bates with an exclusive Cole fruit design called "Good Enough to
Eat" because that's just the way it makes the little cuddlers look.
And don't blame us if mamma is taken for an older sister. Visit or
write any store listed... but do it soon! Colors: red, white,
yellow. Sizes: S., M.,L., for
Mother, for Pigtailer (7-14) and
for Water Baby (2-6).
Copyright 1949, Cole of California. Inc.
Los Angreles 11
12
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
Be Carefree ... Be Casual ... in California's Newest Sensation
tile ^Ortc^a ^Wa
by MAM'ZELLE
All the uplift and contour molding of the
famous Mam'zelle Brassiere is in this
Rancho Bando — the smartest, gayest
midriff blouse of the season.
At tennis, golf, gardening, on the beach
or shopping tour, you'll feel your best in
this cool, carefree creation.
Wear it -with a skirt — with shorts or pedal
pushers . . . select the gay prints for day-
time activity — the white for evening wear.
... in colorful prints of red, blue,
green and gold, with white trim
at $2.95. In all-white rayon poplin
with contrasting trim of red, gold,
green or blue at 83.95. Sanforized;
fast colors. Sizes: 32, 34, 36 and 38.
See them in better sportswear de-
partments and corset shops — or
send money order direct, together
with name of your favorite store.
a^m
BRASSIERES
6558 SANTA MONICA BOULEVARD . HOLLYWOOD 38, CALIFORNIA
Caltex uses your
favorite Rippletide
for this two-piece
Water Classic.
Figure-flattering
shirred skirt and
adjustable bra.
Inviting pastel
Sun Shades.
Sizes 10-18, $13.95
Write and well tell you where...
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
— !mm
JiRiVW*^
WILL-O-LACE. . . misty lace stockings for
the sheerest in leg beauty. Originally designed
for Betty Grable in "Beautiful Blonde from
Bashful Bend," these lace stockings started
a trend that Willys of Hollywood has now
translated for you, in mica grey; shovel tan;
brown stone; and black. 100% nylon lace,
15-denier, runproof and snagproof. With san-
dalfoot or conventional, amazingly low priced
at S1.95 the pair. Sage & Allen, Hartford;
Harris Company, Dallas; May Company Wil-
shire, Los Angeles. Or write Willys of Holly-
wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
FUTURA DOOR KNOCKERS . . . styled
for individuality at your home's entrance.
Hand-crafted in gleaming solid bronze or
sparkling solid German silver, to create the
most beautiful door knockers we've seen.
Perfect for wedding, anniversary or house-
warming gifts, the name is deeply engraved
as you request it. Postpaid, S7.50 in bronze,
S8.95 in silver. Send for free folder showing
other distinctive designs. At better department
stores and gift shops throughout the nation,
or order cVirect from Maynard Doorware, 2200
Lucile Street, Seattle 8, Wash.
COPPER SALT AND PEPPER SHAKERS
. . . make these the stellar attraction on
your dining room table. Guaranteed to pour,
be the weather wet or dry. Made of gleaming
solid copper, they're tin-lined to protect salt
and pepper. A marvelous gift for the bride!
There are three styles to choose from: left
to right, standing 41/-;", 5", 5l/2". All priced
at S3.95 the pair postpaid. The Copper Mart,
162 East 86th Street. New York 28, New
York.
BALI MUG AND DISH . . . you'll be de-
lighted to own these "Tropical Modern"
glamour pieces. Handmade ceramics, the
bamboo handles are hand-lashed in native
fashion, and the Mug features a Balinese
dancing girl's head. Mug, 8" tall, is perfect
as an ornament or for drinking. Dish, 8'/£"
long, is for general utility — pretzels, candy,
or as a planter. Wine, bamboo green, hibis-
cus yellow, chartreuse, dawn pink, or sky blue
overlaid with earth brown. Postpaid, Mug
S2.95; Dish $3.95. Write for free catalog.
House of Bamboo, 11566 Santa Monica Blvd.,
Los Angeles 25, Calif.
PASTRY BOARDS . . . most practical for
you and your home. You'll find a million
uses for this pastry board as a kitchen helper,
from rolling dough to chopping meats, vege-
tables, fruits and nuts. Of selected kiln dried
hardwoods, beautifully manufactured, with
attractive laminated finish. A wonderful gift
for any homemaker, sized to fit every need.
9"x20" (2% lbs.) $1.10; 10"xl4" (2'/2 lbs.)
$1.20; 14"x20" (5 lbs.) $2.40; 18"xl8" (6
lbs.) $3.00; 18"x24" (8 lbs.) $3.60. Postpaid.
Send check or money order to Texas Manu-
facturing Co., 663 Houston Street, Brenham,
Texas.
14
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
«*«mfii
DERMACULTURE CONTOUR MOLD . . .
easiest, quickest, most efficient means of cor-
recting double chins, flabby jaw muscles,
crepy throat. Made of sponge rubber. Tim-
vacuum cups increase circulation by stimula-
tion ... no need for tight ties which im-
pede circulation. Not a chin strap, but a con-
tour mold acting as a soft tissue cast. Wear
whenever possible, especially at night. No
softening creams or oils necessary. May also
be worn on front or back of neck and for
forehead lines. $2.50 plus 8c tax in Los An-
geles, 7c in Calif. From DermaCulture. 1318
Fourth Avenue, Los Angeles 6. Calif.
DRY FRYER . . . fries food without grease!
l"Magic pores" in aluminum alloy trap air, keep
food from sticking. Fits over two burners,
Icooks a whole breakfast at once, with only
lone utensil to clean afterwards. Use both
■sides: one permits juices to run off. Ideal for
Biot cakes, bacon, eggs, fish, steak, chicken,
Ichops and toast. Easy to clean. 191/2"xl01/4"-
■Use indoors or out. Satisfaction guaranteed
jor your money back. $4.95 postpaid. Frawley
[[Brothers, 116 South 41st Street. Birmingham,
Mia.
irTHE VOYAGER . . . Emmet of California's
[[stunning topgrain cowhide bag, doubling as
Ja handbag and overnight ease. Roomy enough
[nor nightwear and cosmetics, yet easy to carry
Hover-the-shoulder. Ideal for plane or train,
[(without the bulk of usual cosmetic cases. Lined
bwith fullweight chamois suede, with handy
tinner and outer pockets, removable zippered
[[change purse. H"xlO%". Saddle leather, red,
Iprown, black, navy, green, smoke white or
Duggage brown. At better stores or write
llEmmet Corp., 2837 West Pico. Los Angeles,
ICalif. $29.95 plus excise.
[CIGARETTES, SUNDAES AND EGGS . . .
[[you'll put them all in these wonderfully ver-
Ikatile egg cups. These Briarwood fluted hold-
l|ers, lined in a contrasting color, are ceramic
Ipriginals from MacConnells of California. A
Irich variety of colors to match your break-
Hast and dining sets: deep sea green with
Ired lining; jade green with pink; cocoa with
■pink; pompeii grey with pink or red. Post-
Ipaid, nicely priced at $2.25 each or four for
■8. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. The Margorita Shop,
(U.018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15,
Kalif.
[JEXQUISITE GOSSAMER SHEERS . . .
IfWillys of Hollywood presents chiffon-sheer
I DuPont nylons. Full-fashioned, 15 denier, 54
[[gauge, sandalfoot or conventional. Fine sym-
I metrical seams, beautifully sheer stockings.
I Constructed with preshrunk welt for extra
llstretch; crepe-twist for extra wear: Serrasized
l|(rinsing solution to make nylon feel like silk,
I wear like steel). '49ers colors: mica brown;
I rose quartz; red earth; shovel tan. 8 to 11,
I $1.95 at Marshall Field, Chicago: May Com-
I many Wilshire, Los Angeles; Stix, Baer &
I Fuller, St. Louis. Or write Willys of Holly-
I wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
[[(Free booklet, "Shapely Legs & Care of Ny-
lons" on request).
i,tii5«o con'"? ',, _.uim
M"e* '
S'\i*s
ftEE*
,-■
♦
m
T-
■*"%,
6-1°.
fHE CALIF ORNIAN, May, 1949
Caltex own 2-in-l Classic
flatters and assures the
freedom of a two-piece
and security of a one-piece
swimsuit. Its Sun Fabric
is elasticized Jacquard.
The Sun Shades are
Chalk Pink, Tourmaline
Blue, Pastel Yellow,
Champagne. Sizes 10-20,
$17.95.
Write and we'll tell you where...
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
15
by M. R. Fleischman — in
Fuller's exclusive all-cotton
"Playtone," the cotton favorite
with the crinkled surface that
needs no pressing. Colors-,
gray, brown, peacock,
pink and yellow.
Sizes 10 to 18.
Dress, 8.95;
Bolero, 3.95.
Buff urns'
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
MAIt ORDERS
plus 2'i% stale sales tax
Buffums' Sun-Charm Fashions*
-reg. U S. Pal. Off
16
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
MEMO FROM THE
FASHION EDITOR
Last month THE CALIFORNIAN de-
parted from its usual format and in-
troduced fourteen pages of furniture
fashions. We've had so many letters
commending this presentation that we're
asking, here and now, how you liked it.
Would you, for instance, like to have
more of this news about home furnish-
ings and decor . . . would you like to
have us give you an occasional peek into
the furniture marts of California . . .
and if so. just what are your tastes in
furniture?
ft
9
ON THE COVER:
Hollywood Premieres
week-end wardrobe in
three harmonious colors:
linen, navy or roseberry.
Jacket and striped sweater
wonderful toppers for
skirt, slacks, pedal push-
ers, or shorts. Designed
by Irene Saltern. At
Bullock' s Coordination
Shop, downtown Los An-
geles. For other stores,
page 58. Color photo by
Tom Binford.
Our editors scoured the field to bring
you indicative trends in modern furni-
ture. In selecting specific pieces, they
were conscious of the styling of a new
kind of furniture that can contribute so
much to a way of life . . . and they
also were impressed with the price econ-
omy of many available new fashions-in-
furniture.
These are interesting days. There is
a great flurry of home building and
home remodeling; and suddenly, there
is news in home furnishing. Once more
stores are featuring real values, pre-
senting new ideas to make your home
more comfortable.
THE CALIFORNIAN is your on-the-
spot representative, bringing you de-
signs of the west . . . and we always
welcome suggestions you volunteer to
help us in planning a magazine of real
service to you.
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER _ J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MANAGING EDITOR. Alice Carey
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Philip Kustner
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Sleinlauf
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary
Barbara Bailey
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES...- Helen Ignatius
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART „ Morris Ovsey
Anne Harris
John Grandjean
Jane Albrecht
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP _ Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST.- _.... Helen Evans Brown
5
c
California fashions
Beach-Going Coats 20
Down To The Sea In Coats 23
You'll Be Swimming Pretty 24
Going And Coming 28
Cottons Go To The Front 29
Town Cottons Go 30
Day Or Night It's Cotton 32
Party-Going Favorites 34
Flowers On A Cotton Field 36
Bare and Beautiful 42
Cool and Crisp 44
Milan Accessories 50
The Young Whirl 52
Foundation For Beauty 54
California features
It's A Going Year 19
In California It's 37
Little Theatre Is Big Business 38
California's Legacy From Huntington 40
California living
This Tiny House Is Home 46
California Cooks 48
Take A Bough For Spring 51
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager,
370 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExington 2-9470; San Francisco Office, Leonard
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, H. Thorpe Covington, 21 West
Huron St., Chicago 10, 111., Superior 7-5835; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con-
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered
as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California,
under act of March, 1879. Copvright 1949 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A.
Reproduction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
At these fine Stores:
ARIZONA
Phoenix: Towne Shop
Tucson: Ethel Canfield
CALIFORNIA
Fresno: Cahns
Glendale.- Fricks
Hollywood: Nancy's
Long Beach: BufTums'
Los Angeles: Bullocks
Downtown: Meyer Seigel
Oakland: Miss Alamedo Shop
Pasadena: Mathers
Sacramento: Francesco
San Diego: H afters
San Francisco: Kata Blouses
Santa Barbara: Jack Rose
KANSAS
Wichita: Waynes
NEVADA:
Las Vegas: Fannys
Reno: Clothes Rock
OREGON
Portland: Meier & Frank
UTAH
Salt Lake City: Mariams
Summer Magic POWDER PUFF
A seersucker taffeta
... by California Fabric Company
Powder Puff washes and dries in one hour
it's wrinkle-proof and light as air.
In white, pink and blue.
Sizes 32 to 38. $8.95 Retail.
xXeauville
models
18
California 's Finest and Most
Imitated Blouses.
407 East Pico Boulevard
Los Angeles 15
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
/t re you ready? All the signs are in your favor, the
J J_ only problem is where-to-go and what-to-take for your
vacation this year. The mountains? . . . Lake Arrowhead,
Big Trees, Lake Tahoe. The beach? ... La Jolla, Laguna,
Carmel or Pebble Beach. Even if you're "going" to stay at
home, there are new California fashions to make the going
prettier! So let's get out those pretty colored travel folders,
plan the place and pick a date . . . then follow rail, sky or
highways into land of heart's desire. (Once you've mapped
your program, fun begins . . . for anticipation is part of
every summer holiday!) Now it's time to plan your summer
wardrobe . . . things that pack and launder easily, a few
thrills and fancies for flirtatious evenings, sun and play clothes
galore. And chances are the gayest will have a California
label, for here where the sun shines all the year we have our
own ideas about sun-day clothes. This year's sensation is the
beach coat . . . boxy or flaring little coat as long-as-your-
shorts, wonderful coverup for swim or play clothes, often
nice enough to wear with light summer dresses, or skirts.
And of course California swimsuits are . . . but inimitable!
Then you'll find cotton dresses have new flair . . . for town,
for country club or yacht club. So this issue we dedicate to
summer basics, from the indispensable summer dresses to the
swimsuit, to the playsuit that adds a skirt and jacket and is
ready to go to town. And May is the time to think of going
places in California . . . it's the month when wildflowers
carpet hillsides near Bakersfield and Palm Springs, when
there are regattas, yacht races, Pioneer day fun at Sierra
Madre, the famous ride of the Rancheros Visitadores start-
ing from Santa Barbara, and the start of racing at beautiful
Hollywood Park. So set your sites, then see the sights . . .
go, go places!
4 GO//VG y&*#
_ ttS? I ^'midl
TM&ar
^Amn
m
BEACH
GOING
COATS
It'll be a "going" year,
and you'll need at least
one beach coat to go
with swim or play suits,
or stay prettily at home.
Accent on polka dots . .
left, Caltex terry coat,
about $9, Buffums'
Long Beach.
Opposite left, Blair's
middi with shorts-n-bra,
Julius Garfinckel,
Washington, D. C. ;
Joseph Magnin, San
Francisco ; Neal's of
California, Boston. Right,
Normandin terry trio,
about $17, Bullock's
Pasadena; Silverwood's,
Los Angeles; L. Strauss
& Co., Indianapolis.
DOWN TO THE SEA IN COATS
Almost circular coat of sturdy cotton with
|itt and sleeve pockets. By Ardan of California. Under $
Bragg's, Alhambra ; Younker Bros., Des Moines.
Stripes away ... in a three-piece play set from
Western Fashions. About $18. At Bullock's,
Los Angeles; Neal's of California, Boston.
Hawaiian pake coat of bamboo pique print.
White shorts, print bra. Tangerine, aqua, and
shocking. F. B. Horgan. About $13. Meier & Frank. Portland.
I
f rm
YOU'LL BE
SWIMMIIG PRETTY
IN A CALIFORNIA SWIMSUIT
There's an easy and logical reason why California designers can
excel in styling swimsuits. Here where they have the year 'round
inspiration of sun and sea, a year 'round testing ground to perfect
their most imaginative ideas . . . perfection is just second nature.
Chances are the suit you choose (if it has a California label) was
dreamed up to glorify some famous swim or picture star, that it
may appear in the very next movie you'll see, or in your favorite
magazine!
You'll be a cover girl, you'll be a glamour lady ... in the won-
derful new California swimsuits for this year. There's more than
usual eye appeal in wondrous fabrics, rainbow colors, gay young
fancies that swim as "pretty" as they look!
What's more, you can prove the final merits of a California suit.
So much experimental work goes on all year to make each one fit
comfortably, to give you the proper support and figure flattery
which after all is the ultimate test of a suit that is in itself beautiful.
So when you choose your next swimsuit, select a color and cut
that are personally becoming . . . but do more than just guess. Insist
on trying on the suit you like best; test its comfort as you bend
and stretch your body. Notice whether a one or two piece style gives
you more freedom, better lines. Chances are you'll decide to have
two . . . one for show and one to swim in championship style; one
to wear while one is drying.
Opposite page, Caltex new slick-as-a-whistle one-piece swimsuit that
looks like a two-piecer in front: in elasticized Jacquard. About $15 at
Buffums', Long Beach. Handblocked Textiles towel flies in the wind.
Cotton goes for a swim ... in snug little Matletex suit with a strapless, backless wired bra
to match. Cover-up bolero and dust ruffle skirt for extra flare. By Cole of California. In
brown, blue, or green "Petite Fleurs" print. Suit, about $12. Skirt and bolero, about $25:
set is available at Bonwit Teller, New York, and John Gerber, Memphis, Tennessee.
26
Cotton is young and gay . . . swims like mad! Catalina makes these three versions for
beachtime or playtime. Left, sweetpea printe 1 seersucker puckerette. Center, shirred seer-
sucker with adjustable side ties and detachabl ! strips, and right, plaid two-piecer. both by
Schiaparelli. Saks Fifth Avenue. New York; and at The White House, San Francisco.
27
GOING AID COMIIG
28
There's front and back interest in these coats:
left. Lanz pique coat, sharply pleated in back, about
$20; Lanz of California, San Francisco, Los Angeles. j
Right, Joy Kingston's pique set with flower applique.
sizes 10 to 16. about $35, at Jean Long, Beverly Hills.l
COTTONS GO TO THE FRONT
fever such a season for cottons!
Pat Premo makes them shine
by day and night, in
irsatile high fashion. Left,
sunback dress in
woven check cotton
damask, pique collar
and cuffs . . . with its
own brief jacket.
Right, a wonderful
Malayan cotton batik
import makes an
exciting patio or
dance frock. Boned
top and coy bolero,
it's flirtatious
but demure.
TOWN COTTONS
I
To lunch or to shop, or even
to market . . . and wonderfully wearable
or vacations or summers-at-home,
these new darker town cottons!
Opposite page left to right,
Marjorie Montgomery's two-tone stripe
with sash; Natalie Nolder's comfortable
cotton for mothers-to-be ; four-piece
ensemble in Bates crinkle stitch corded
chambray by Koret of California;
chambray with Picolay accents, from
Junior Miss of California; Marbert's
two-piece shadow striped chambray.
This page, left, Andree Gay's iridescent
cooler with side button details; right,
De De Johnson's double-breasted casual. .
DM OR NIGHT
ITS COTTOJ
In shaded tones of a color . . . for
daytime it's Ken Sutherland's three
toned cotton, left, or the two-color contrast
of Agnes Barrett's cool cotton casual.
When evening comes, cotton is sheer magic:
opposite page, left to right, Joy Kingston's
filmy batiste with lace inserts,
velvet bands; strapless boned printed
sunner with organdie over-dress, by
Lanz of California; slim pique
beneath organdie over-dress appliqued
in pique, by Marjorie Michels.
PARTY
GOING
FAVORITES
Enchantment for moonlit hours . . . crisp
cottons with gala air, colors just as gay.
This page, Peggy Hunt's swirling dotted
swiss, strapless, with demure lace-edged
stole. Opposite page left, Addie Masters'
pastel or white pique strapless dress,
little cape jacket. Right, tiny space
print on Louella Ballerino's party dress,
bow-tied bolero, in Bates Picolay.
FLOWERS 01 it
COTTON FIELD
and cotton can be glamorous!
Here we find a so-new idea . .
daring and bold hand-printed flowers
riotously spaced on chintz,
transformed by Blair
into your most dramatic dance dress.
Deep plunging neckline in front
and deep back decollete, too.
Also available with sequins,
but of course for more money.
A typical California original,
spirited as all outdoors!
ANNE & DICK O'HANLON . . . artists who live and work on a four-
acre orchard in Mill Valley. Dick O'Hanlon is winning nationwide recognition
for his powerful, modernistic stone sculpture. Anne paints, weaves, and
designs frescoes.
WILLEMINA OGTEROP . . . designer, painter,
constructor of stained glass windows at Cummings
Studio in San Francisco, noted for her sensitive in-
terpretations and exquisite use of colors. Jewel-like
quality of her work is obtained by using thousands
of small pieces of glass in flashing primary colors.
N
CALIFORNIA
IT'S
MOYA DEL PINO . . .
dynamic Spanish artist,
famous for his murals of
western history, who can
paint in any style from
realism to abstraction.
Whatever the subject, del
Pino paints with intensity
of feeling and a vital re-
gard for color and solidity
of form.
JEAN & JOHN DOWLING
. . . master potters deter-
mined to keep their ceramics
output within the produc-
tion limits of their own four
hands. The Dowlings alter-
nate plain clay with glaze as
an essential element in beauty
of design.
HELEN L. CONSER
. . . San Francisco crafts-
man and artist who con-
structs completely equip-
ped dollhouses scaled one
inch to the foot with all
fabrics and finishes exact
replicas of full-size home
furnishings. Lamps actual-
ly turn on, drawers and
doors open.
37
THE LITTLE THEATRE
' I 'here was a time when troupers from Broadway
would push all the way west to Kansas City . . with
a feeling they had gone about as far as they could go
into tank town country. From this daring salient they
would beat a quick retreat and finish the circuit back
to the safety of New York. This migratory pattern left
a theatrical vacuum in California, and so it became
a regular thing for Los Angeles play producers to re-
produce Broadway successes for the Coast trade.
Business was brisk, and when it hit its top, in the late
twenties, twenty-two legitimate theaters were operating
in Los Angeles. Homer Curran and the late Edwin
Belasco, brother of David, were two leading theater-
owner producers.
But change came fast to Los Angeles after Wall Street
laid that egg in 1929. Theaters closed like Arabs fold-
ing their tents. The old El Capitan became the Para-
mount; the Vine Street Playhouse became a radio studio.
And when they converted to films or radio or whatnot
they seldom converted back. The legit slipped into ten
years of cobwebs, burlesque and WPA shows. Only war
brought Los Angeles out of its doldrums. But it brought
a brand new legit out into a new and different
world.
Homer Curran, oddly enough, is one of the chief
instruments of the emergent theater. Still in his sixties.
he has witnessed the sprawling, unpredictable city un-
dergo changes that would take another metropolis gen-
erations. Fortunately, he didn't lose his shirt when
theater went to pot. He came out rich. He also came
out still in possession of a couple of legit houses . . .
Curran and the Geary in San Francisco . . as well as an
interest in others. With this fund of money, facilities
and know-how, Curran did two important things: he
backed two young producers, Russell Lewis and Howard
Young; and he decided to become a writer. He sat down
and wrote "the book" for a musical comedy based on
the life of Edvard Grieg, financed it, produced it and
the result was that huge success, "Song of Norway."
It went to Broadway. It was sold to the movies for
$200,000. It put Los Angeles in the big league . . on a
level with New York. Bill Eythe then went east with his
sensational revue, "Lend An Ear."
"Song of Norway" was no accident, no lucky break
that isn't likely to happen again. It came out of a
"theater factory" which has no counterpart elsewhere
in the USA. The "Curran Studio." formerly the Wil-
liam S. Hart Studio, has been rebuilt to house the entire
offstage theater plant. It houses great areas of set-de-
signing and property manufacture. It is the Curran
costuming headquarters. But most important of all. it
houses personnel. And its most important people, for
the future of the legitimate theater in Los Angeles are
the two young producers. Lewis and Young. Their list
in the few years since the war is impressive. It in-
cludes, with revivals thrown in: "Meet the Wife,"
"Blythe Spirit." "The Desert Song," "Obsession." "The
IS BIG BUSINESS IN CALIFORNIA
BY DAVID A. MU1NRO
Hasty Heart," "Lady Windermere's Fan," "The Story
of Mary Sarratt," "I Remember Mama," "Tonight at
8:30," "April Fool," and "Happy Birthday." Some of
these, such as the production of "I Remember Mama,"
were built strictly to tour parts of the country where
the Broadway production didn't go . . something like
the theater business of the twenties. But all of them,
unlike L.A.'s production in the twenties, were of Broad-
way calibre. The result of this vast outpouring is that
for the first time in modern theater history non-Broad-
way productions have invaded Broadway.
Messrs. Lewis and Young, capable young men though
they are, don't take any great credit for this develop-
ment. They admit that theater has grown in Southern
California like the orange tree . . because of the con-
ditions of climate and soil. Casting is possible in Los
Angeles on a basis comparable with New York, be-
cause of the talent pool created by the movies. And
production is possible literally because of climate. It's
a matter of readying shows for the winter season. Los
Angeles can always get the jump on New York because
its theaters function full blast in August and Septem-
ber . . dog days in New York when theater-goers and
theater folk alike are panting for breath. Homer Curran
opened with his lavish "Magdalena," said, at $300,000.
to be the most expensive musical comedy ever produced.
They figured to be skimming the cream, on Broadway
and on the road, while the easterners were still re-
covering from their sunburn.
But the theater factory housed in the old Bill Hart
studio is only one aspect of the new theater in Los
Angeles. Actually it's busting out at the seams.
Los Angeles has developed a couple of hardy peren-
nials, for instance. "The Drunkard" goes on and on
at the Theatre Mart. Ken Murray's "Blackouts of 1949"
were first . . and more appropriately . . the "Black-
outs of 1942." He's still doing $17,000 a week and seems
destined to do it for life.
Los Angeles likewise has taken theater out of doors,
and Hollywood Bowl is best known. It is nature's ver-
sion of the Lewisohn Stadium, with a stage too large
and distances too great for any production less grandiose
than ballet or symphony music. "The Pilgrimage Play"
is an annual production nearby. At Hemet, Calif., the
spectacle-drama, "Ramona." is regularly produced. In
Irvine Bowl, deep in the majestic silence of Laguna
Canyon, Laguna Beach, local artists and other citizens
stage the annual "Pageant of the Masters," living por-
trayals of great masterpieces of art, and take in an en-
viable $50,000 during their twelve-day Festival period.
And out of all this activity has come one full-sized
legitimate outdoor theater in the area. It's the Greek
Theater, maintained by the City of Los Angeles in Griffith
Park. It is billed as "the world's most beautiful theater."
And possibly it is. Griffith Park itself is a California
superlative. It's the world's largest metropolitan park.
by actual count of its 4,000 acres. Naturally, the 4400-
seat theater, tucked into a natural saucer among the
hills, ought to be some kind of superlative, too. It pre-
sents only musical comedies, and Gene Mann has just
completed his third season as managing director of Greek
Theater Productions. He's making a career out of the
theater in the hills.
Theater spills out in the direction of experimentation,
too. The movies employ thousands of the world's most
capable theater people and feed them on a scale to which
they've never been accustomed. But these movie people
suffer from a curious disquiet. Their "souls are starved,"
and there seems to be nothing quite like good old
legitimate theater where the thespian hears the audience
roar.
Elsa Lanchester, the wife of Charles Laughton, is one
of the experimenters. Every night she gives her golden
time to the Turnabout Theater, which accommodates 175
in double flap-back seats liberated from a street-car.
The subsidy is more direct in the case of the La Jolla
Playhouse near San Diego. This venture is personally
supported by David Selznick, with the active help of
Gregory Peck, Jennifer Jones and others in the Selznick
orbit. Charles and Sidney Chaplin built the Circle
Theater. But the presence of the talent itself is the
greatest subsidy the "illegit" offers the legit in Los An-
geles. Between-jobs actors and directors are always avail-
able. Would-be actors, newcomers, and victims of "typ-
ing" . . all need a showcase to demonstrate what they
have to offer.
However, all these backstage reasons for theater grow-
ing in Los Angeles don't add up to a successful busi-
ness. They're too strictly backstage. Audiences still are
necessary, even in Los Angeles. And audiences are not
always easy to come by. The truth is that Los Angeles,
for all its millions, doesn't have the theater-goers. It
can't produce the box-office gold that makes the mare go.
It doesn't yet have a great body of theater-wise play-
goers who can make or break a star, or a play. Los
Angeles, which doesn't mind hurling a challenge at New
York in theater as in anything else, is not even a near
competitor at the box-office. In volume of admissions it
is easily topped by Chicago, Boston and Philadelphia,
as well as New York.
But the experts pay little attention to the dearth of
local audiences. If there are substantial reasons why the
actors will continue to act here . . and there are . .
then sooner or later the audiences will grow. And
besides, actors play to the critics. They prostrate
themselves and shiver with fright before a Brooks
Atkinson in the audience. One cynical sentence
from his pen and their show can go dark. The
number one Los Angeles critic is far more devas-
tating. He's Louis B. Mayer, and he makes his strokes
of the pen directly on the world's biggest theatrical
checkbook.
I/VE COVTTS, the artist, whose impressionistic drawings decorate these pages, began painting at the age of four and today is recognized
>ne of America's outstanding young hopefuls who has "arrived." Born in Granada, Spain, of a Scotch father and Czechoslovakian
her. Miss Coutts studied for ten years as the protege of her father, Gordon Coutts, R. A., became a great admirer of
inald Marsh who taught her the "Morager Method," and since has exhibited at the Sunset Galleries in San Diego and in
n Springs where she resides. Miss Coutts has completed a mural in the desert spa which was shown at the Webb Galleries in Los Angeles.
39
BY DOROTHY BOWEN
CALIFORNIA'S
LEGACY
FROM
HENRY E.
HUNTINGTON
the story
of an insatiable
collector
Henry E. Hunlinston
To the Huntington Library
every year come hundreds
oj scholars from all over the
world to spend weeks
or months in research.
3J Henry Edwards Huntington collect-
ed avocado seeds.
He also collected Gainsboroughs,
Romneys, some hundred thousand rare
editions, and a million or more manu-
scripts ranging from the monkish pa-
pers of England's old Battle Abbey
to the manuscripts of most of Jack
London's novels. Otherwise Henry Ed-
wards Huntington was a railroad mag-
nate.
Back in 1905 when avocados were as
scarce a commodity in California as
the hen's tooth, and considerably more
exotic, Mr. Huntington lunched on
avocado salads in Los Angeles' Jona-
than Club, asked the chef for the big
seeds, secured more from obliging
friends who got them in turn from their
waiters, stuffed them in his pockets,
and brought them to the ranch he had
purchased two years before in the roll-
ing hills of San Marino, eleven miles
from Los Angeles.
William Hertrich. now Curator Emer-
itus of the Huntington Botanical
Gardens, was then chief magician in
charge of developing the canyons, rich
acres and arid spaces which he has trans-
formed into those gardens. There, on
a patch of the five-hundred acres which
had formerly belonged to J. de Barth
Shorb. he planted Mr. Huntington's
salad seeds. They grew into what be-
came the first commercial avocado
grove in California. It thrives today
as one of the less remarkable features
of the Huntington Botanical Gardens,
obscured by the rare plants of that
garden and the vast treasures contained
in the Henry E. Huntington Library
and Art Gallery.
Today the staff — curators, librarians,
bibliographers, cataloguers, clerks —
lunching in their cafeteria, once the
Founder's bowling alley, enjoy some of
the fruit from those avocado trees.
Possibly that is among the rewarding
delights of working at the Huntington.
At any rate, a good number of people
do work there, operating the great in-
stitution which has grown up around
seeds of quite another kind collected bv
The Art Gallery is one of
the beautiful buildings on
the magnificent Huntington
Estate in San Marino.
Henry E. Huntington.
Some of that staff, still there, came
with Mr. Huntington in 1920 when he
moved bag, baggage, "Gutenberg" and
all, from New York to the California
home which he had prepared for his
collections on the ranch bought in 1903.
They had seen the treasures pouring into
Mr. Huntington's home at 57th Street
and Fifth Avenue in New York, mostly
from his great block purchases of
collections such as the Church and
Halsey. They had helped unpack, sort,
and catalogue; then re-packing, re-box-
ing, gathering up wives and children,
they had loyally and adventurously set
out for San Marino to install and
henceforth cherish in its new California
home what is now one of the finest
and most famous collections of litera-
ture and art in the United States.
The man who brought it together
was a native of Oneonta, New York,
born in 1850 of solid New England
stock. The boy had the necessary
schooling and at the age of twenty, by
his own choice, was "on his own." That
meant seeking his fortune in the city
of New York. After a commendable
period of hard work in small jobs he
plunged into hard work in large and
larger jobs under the not-too-sheltering
wing of his admiring uncle, Collis P.
Huntington, already a compelling figure
in the railroad world. When Collis
P. asked him in 1892 to come to San
Francisco to share the responsibility for
the management of the Southern Pa-
cific Railroad and to represent Hunt-
ington interests on the Pacific Coast,
he was able, experienced, and willing.
From then on his interest lay in the
west. And from 1900, after the death
of his uncle, it was concentrated in
Southern California. Virtually with-
drawing from the Southern Pacific he
organized the Los Angeles Railway
Company and developed in the Pacific
Electric an interurban electric railway
system surpassing anything of its kind
then known.
Railroading reaped rich harvests, and
of Mr. Huntington's harvest the people
The Gutenberg Bible is just one of
the more famous of the Library's
150,000 rare books and
million manuscripts.
40
of Southern California, and indeed the
far ends of the world, have been the
beneficiaries. In the early decades of
the twentieth century he was buying
avidly in the book markets of England
and America, was collecting paintings
of the eighteenth-century British mas-
ters, and was sending far and wide in
both hemispheres for cacti and exotic
plants. After his retirement in 1910
the demands of business had been put
aside and his time and thought were
pre-eminently engaged with the expan-
sion and planning of his great project.
When at last, in 1919. all had been
gathered in and around the white Geor-
gian mansion which he had built on
the old Shorb ranch at San Marino, he
presented his collections under a deed
of trust for the use and pleasure of
the people of California, dedicating his
gift to "the advancement of learning,
art and the sciences, and to the public
welfare." His personal interest in them
was deep, until his death in 1927. From
the time of the removal of his treas-
ures from New York to California he
lived in their very midst. In his home
with its great stairways, high ceilings,
loggia and terraces, which is now the
Art Gallery, he hung his paintings and
lived among them. Across the lawn,
past cycads and palms, and beyond
the expansive native oaks, he could
stroll to the building which housed his
books. He had great plans for these
books and paintings. With his trus-
tees, among them his old friend and
neighbor, George S. Patton, Sr., father
of the late General, he worked out the
details by which the public should
perpetually enjoy his collections and
the scholar use them.
Now, twenty-two years after Mr.
Huntington's death, the plans of the
Founder have matured and there is lit-
tle need to "explain" the Huntington
Library to the prideful resident of
Southern California, to the tourist, well
primed by the All Year Club, to the
Los Angeles grade-school youngster who
has been marched through its galleries
on a school outing, or to the scholar
tysborough' s "Blue Boy"
is 'ost publicized picture in
frallery, but is rivalled
eatness by a score
hers.
in Iowa. Australia or London who has
spent a winter in its reading rooms.
Last year over 150,000 visitors came
to see for themselves what it was about.
To some it was simply Gainsborough's
"Blue Boy," (how much do you suppose
Mr. Huntington paid for it, my dear!)
or Beynolds' "Mrs. Siddons"; or per-
haps one of the "musts" in the quiet
main exhibition hall, such as the Guten-
berg Bible or the Ellesmere Chaucer
or the first folio Shakespeare. But the
staff of the Huntington Library are
crafty in their means of luring the visi-
tor to come not once, but again and
again. They know better than to de-
pend on the main props for this; a sur-
feited public might say "we've seen
the Franklin autobiography," and let
it go at that. So, with considerable
zeal the library staff puts out other
bait, with the result that something new
is to be seen on exhibit every month
of the year. Obviously the staff enjoys
this part of its work: who, after all,
could resist the appeal of poking his
head into a vault of a million manu-
scripts and 107,000 rare and ancient
books to decide which might be the
most entertaining, the most strange or
beautiful, or the most timely for the
enjoyment of this week's visitor? If a
book printed after 1501 seems too mod-
ern to trifle with, there are fifty-four
hundred earlier ones to select from in
the largest collection of incunabula in
the United States. Or, if maps are in
order, maps are to be had by the hun-
dred, in manuscript and print. This
spring, in fact, one entire exhibition
hall is devoted to California in maps,
sometimes representing that fabulous
land as a peninsula, sometimes as an
island, but recalling to the centennially
minded that California, complete with
such accessories as the island of "S.
Cathalina," was on the map centuries
before its gold came to light.
In the satisfaction of seeing the rich-
est ore and some of the most representa-
tive veins from Mr. Huntington's col-
lections, the hundred-and-fifty-thousand
annual guests to the galleries and
grounds are for the most part unaware
of the variety and activity going on
within the mine itself. A reference
library of volumes has been amassed
for the use of scholars who are digging
facts, data, and even wisdom from the
rarer tomes; spools of microfilm and
pages of photostatic copies supply
them with reproductions of other early
volumes existing only in libraries across
the sea. Downstairs a busy, up-to-date
photographic department turns out film
and photostats of some of the Hunt-
ington's own documents, so that the
originals may be saved wear and tear.
In a nearby building the Library's
binder makes needed repairs on far-
gone covers, and upstairs in the library
building manuscripts are delicately
and adeptly smoothed and impercepti-
bly mended. Again below stairs, vol-
umes coming newly into the collec-
tions are wheeled in a gaping fumigator
whence they emerge bereft of the ter-
rible bookworm and silver-fish, and
take their places, duly ticketed, in the
cool, earthquake-proof vaults.
In addition to the constant succes-
sion of scholars and the more ephemeral
collection of researchers from the movie
studios and historical fiction writers,
the Library has established a permanent
research group of its own and a series
of fellowships and grants-in-aid. Schol-
ars have sailed from India and Nor-
way, flown in bombers from England,
crossed the continent in jalopies and
the Super-Chief, to spend long months
among the rare source material at the
Huntington.
But all this is behind the scenes.
In the meantime, on the lawns, along
the paths to the Oriental (nee Japanese)
Garden and desert plant collections,
in the beautiful white Georgian art
gallery and the stolid library building,
the public accepts the invitation of
Henry E. Huntington to enjoy the flow-
ering of the seeds which he collected
and planted for their benefit.
HUNTINGTON LIBRARY PHOTOS
Sarah Siddons as "The
Tragic Muse" is a
connoisseur s picture, one
of Sir Joshua Reynolds'
portraits.
William Hertrich
planted Mr. Huntington's
salad seeds, is now
curator emeritus of famed
Botanical Gardens.
Pasadena Star News photo.
41
For the lady who wants to be a pretty picture as she enjoys her leisure . . . left, lovely patio skirt
and blouse in a Fuller print, by Royal of California. Sizes 10-18, under $6 each. The Fair, Ft. Worth.
Right, M. R. Fleischman coordinates of Fuller Playtone . . . pedal pushers, bra, jacket. Sizes 10-18.
about $12 for the set. City of Paris, San Francisco; Lord & Taylor, New York; Buff urns', Long Beach.
42
Bare and beautiful sundresses for white hot days to come . . . left, Louella Ballerino uses two hold
stripes on Bates Thumbprint cotton. Sizes 10-16, about $23. Bonwit Teller, Philadelphia; The J. L.
Hudson Co., Detroit. Right, triple-tiered sundress, Addie Masters. Sizes 10-18, about $35. Bullock's
Wilshire, Los Angeles; Julius Garfinckel, Washington, D. C. Photo by Boyce, Santa Ynez Inn.
43
Cool-n-crisp for city or country . . . Ken Sutherland combines Steintex chambray
and seersucker. Left, a step-into dress with five pearl buttons on side. Pockets
echo stripe at neckline. Right, redingote effect in a one piece dress of solid and
striped, fresh as a spring breeze. About $25 each. At Haggarty's, Los Angeles.
44
Candy stripes, so good for summertime ... in Dan River cottons. Left, Alice of
California's cordspun classic, sizes 14-40, about $9 at Higbee's, Cleveland ;
Paris Co., Salt Lake City; Kahn's, Oakland. Right, Marjorie Montgomery's
tucks-n-pleats, sizes 9-16, about $18 at Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh; B. Altman, N. Y.
45
THIS TINY HOUSE
|_ t isn't how large a house is, but how well
it suits your needs . . . how easily it takes
the whole world unto and into itself.
In this three-room house designed by J. R.
Davidson, the entire wall of ceiling-to-floor
movable windows with a deep shadowing over-
hang has the illusion of making the outdoor
patio part of the plan for living.
Built on a small 70x110 foot lot with no
special view, Davidson concentrated his interest
on the back portion of the house where all
available garden space was fenced in for com-
plete privacy . . . the terrace paved and land-
scaped to make a clean usable "room" for out-
door living.
This particular house was meant for a family
with a teen-age child, and the arrangement of
the bedrooms allows for privacy of each unit.
Living room is a combination of living- and
dining-room, with an additional spot for infor-
mal family eating a part of the minute kitchen.
Heating is a post-war innovation, the Radiant
system with thermostat as well as individual
room control.
Color is an important part of this as well
as all California houses. Walls in the kitchen
and breakfast corner are paneled with pale
yellow coratile, cabinets in wood enameled a pale
turquoise to match the formica worktops. Floor
is dark brown asphaltile.
Front entrance of the house has wood siding
slightly glazed and left exposed to the weather;
other walls are stucco of a warm pearl-gray
color . . . while tones of the garden, its
flowers and foliage, are brought into the living
room and bedrooms.
This is the Case Study House #11, fulfilling
the Arts and Architecture requirements for a
small house not over 1200 square feet (includ-
ing garage). It can be built economically,
providing every opportunity for carefree luxuri-
ous living. Loose furniture is by Van-Keppel
Green, with built-in pieces designed by the
architect.
IS HOME
Paved terrace and gardens, protected by high fence, is "room" for. outdoor living in pi
J. R. Davidson's simple compact plan for California
living brings a feeling of gracious
ease into a 1200 square foot area
an example of
post-war improvements on an economic scale.
46
WHEREVER YOU BUILD IT
,0 ^
"'.> /
ireplace nook with glass walls that open to encompass patio . . . make outdoor entertaining practical.
Dramatic night exposure to help you "star" at home
Dining group near kitchen, ample free area for fun
Here's the way you entertain outside . . . informally
Extra bedroom carefully planned to conserve space
JULIUS SHULMAN PHOTOGRAPHS
"*N
California
•mitrnw » ^mmm0^ ® ^Wsaassw * ^*mm»* ®
in Sweden it's a smorgasbord
In California we've long been noted for our leisure clothes,
now we are becoming famous for our leisure meals — par-
ticularly for those summer repasts that we serve al fresco
and without apparent effort. We have discovered that the
knack of giving a good party is not always the lot of the
person who knocks herself out preparing for it and we are
convinced that it's more fun to have a bowl of potato chips
and a relaxed hostess than an elaborate smorgasbord pre-
sided over by a corpse. But Californians love a smorgasbord,
as we love all good food, so we have found a way to have
it and our leisure, too. We call it a Californian Collation
because, though it is patterned after the Swedish appetizer-
feast, it has many touches all its own, many dishes that are
unknown in Scandinavia. Like a Smorgasbord, there is always
bread in variety, butter, and several different cheeses. (The
word Smorgasbord comes from smor -butter- Ost -cheese- and
brod -bread.) There is plenty of marinated and smoked
fish, salads, cold cuts, eggs and one or two hot dishes. In-
cidently, the Swedes are shocked by the way Americans pile
their plates high with everything on the smorgasbord, but
they're not half as shocked as the Americans are when they
discover that they are expected to eat an entire meal after
this "appetizer" course! In Sweden there is a definite eti-
quette in serving oneself from the gorgeous array of foods.
First one takes a helping of bread and butter along with a
few of the fish dishes. This is washed down with Schnapps
(usually Aquavit or Brannvin) or, for less hardy palates,
with beer. The second trip to the table is for the purpose
of sampling the meats and salads, and at the third trip one
partakes of the hot dishes and of the cheese. . . . But we're
not having a smorgasbord, but a Californian Collation, and
we serve anything that appeals to us or that the guests can
be persuaded to bring. For that is the secret of this party —
everyone works but no one works very hard! There has to
be an organizer, of course. Usually it is the person at whose
home the gala is to be held. She is the executive and as
such she will dish out the chores. The talented cooks will be
asked to bring some culinary masterpiece, those with less
kitchen dexterity will be happy with a simpler assignment.
and those who boast that they don't know a vegetable knife
from a soup bone can be sent delicatessening with a detailed
list in hand. A long table should be attractively decorated
and provided with serving implements and with plates, silver,
glassware and napery — of paper if you wish. As the appear-
ance of each dish should be beautiful it is smart to have
some extra flowers and greenery on hand for garnishing. The
table is definitely a buffet — for serving only — but as all men
and most women despise balancing a plate on a lap it's a
comfortable idea to have individual tables or card tables
scattered about.
As for the menu, let it be varied. Let some of the dishes
be simple, some elaborate. As there will be plenty of con-
servative food to suit the meat and potato palates it's a good
chance to slip in a few more exotic dishes for those with
48
sophisticated tastes. Here is a list of the foods that can be
purchased ready to serve:
Breads: Have three or four kinds — sliced and attractively
displayed in baskets. Rye, pumpernickel, rye crisp, flat
brod and a sour dough French bread are all well liked but
have some plain white bread for those who must.
Cheeses: Again have several kinds. They may be arranged
on cutting boards, with their foiled covering partially laid
back and with flowers or leaves garnishing them. A good
choice would be a natural well aged cheddar, a bleu cheese,
perhaps one of the seed flavored Scandinavian cheeses, a
dish of cottage cheese, a marinated camembert or a Leider-
kranz and a good big hunk of California's favorite Teleme
cheese from Tomales Bay.
Butter: Do have both sweet and salt butter and have it either
made into balls or curls or molded in some fancy shape.
Have it bedded on cracked ice, too, and garlanded with
greenery.
Fish: Sardines are in order and it's nice to have several kinds
— also cod livers, anchovies, smoked eel, kippered snacks,
pickled or smoked oysters, and of course some marinated
herring and smoked salmon. In Sweden these fish treats
are served directly from the tins — several kinds being grouped
together on a tray with cress or parsley tucked around for
decoration. The non-cooks can bring these fish as well as
roll mops, herring in sour cream, herring in wine sauce and
the cheeses and cold cuts . . . they're all to be found at a good
delicatessen.
Meats: Ham, either baked or broiled, tongue, a good smoked
Iiverwurst. a hard salami and a well made head cheese are
the best choices. It is well, I think, to eschew the so-called
"luncheon meats" that are all too liberally mixed with cereals.
With these ready dishes forming the nucleus of the Colla-
tion there are innumerable other dishes that require some
preparation: Aspics; especially fish, tomato, chicken, veal,
or mushroom. Salads; usually including potato and cole
slaw and some vegetable in vinaigrette sauce. Pickled beets
and stuffed tomatoes are almost a must, and a mixed green
salad is usually in evidence. Eggs, sometimes devilled, often
scrambled or in a chafing dish sauced with something savory,
meat balls, kidneys, sweetbreads, sausages, croquettes — but
I could go on forever being indefinite. Here are some recipes.
SHRIMPS WITH SMITHFIELD HAM
Clean a pound of green shrimps and if very large cut them
in halves. Cook them in a quarter of a cup of butter until
they are a bright pink. Add a cup of Smithfield ham, cut in
small pieces, and continue to cook until the shrimps are
Cooks
by helen evans brown
in California it's a collation
tender, the ham slightly crisp. Taste for seasoning and serve
very hot. A chafing dish is good for this one.
SHAD ROE, NEWBURG SAUCE
Poach the roe in just enough water to cover, keeping the
water just below the boiling point. Fifteen minutes cooks
the average shad roe. Cut the roe in fairly small pieces and
reheat in two tablespoons of butter in a chafing dish. Make a
Newburg sauce by heating a quarter of a cup of California
sherry wine and cooking it until it has reduced one half.
Add a cup of heavy cream, a dash of cayenne, an eighth
teaspoon of salt and allow to come to the boiling point. Now
beat the yolks of three eggs with a little of the hot cream
and add to the remaining cream stirring well while adding.
Cook another minute or two over a low flame until it thickens,
then pour over the hot pieces of roe and serve with toast
points. The sauce may be made in the chafing dish and the
pieces of roe reheated in it if care is taken not to break the
delicate fish eggs to a mush.
GENTLEMEN'S RELISH
Cut the contents of a small tin of anchovies into half-
inch pieces — a pair of scissors does the job with dispatch.
Add five hard boiled eggs, chopped, a cup of minced onion
that has been cooked soft in two tablespoons of butter, and
the oil from the anchovies. Mix well and form into a mound.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley and garnish with radish roses.
This dish may also be served hot, from a chafing dish.
SWEDISH MEAT BALLS
Have two pounds of beef and a half pound of pork ground
together three times. Mix with a tablespoon of minced onion,
two eggs and two slices of bread that have been soaked in milk
and squeezed dry. Season with two teaspoons of salt, a few
grindings of black pepper and a teaspoon of ground ginger.
(This last is an exotic but delicious touch. Skip it if you lack
culinary courage — which I hope you don't.) Mix well and
form into small balls, using a spoon dipped into hot water.
Brown in butter and serve either that way, with melted butter
poured over them, or with a pan gravy made by adding flour
and thin cream to the juices in the pan.
HERRING SALAD
This may sound like an awful conglomeration of ingredients
but it's wonderful ! It's also typical of the Scandinavian coun-
tries. Mix together one cup each of herring "tid-bits" diced
cold tongue, diced left-over roast lamb or pork, diced pickled
beets, diced boiled potato and diced raw apple. Dress with
sour cream seasoned with salt, pepper and vinegar and garnish
the salad with slices of hard boiled egg.
LOBSTER IN ASPIC
Heat three cups of fish or chicken stock with three table-
spoons of lemon juice and an herb bouquet. Cook for five
minutes, remove herb bouquet, and taste for seasoning. Add
two tablespoons (envelopes) of plain gelatine that has been
soaked in a quarter of a cup of cold water. Pour a half inch
of this mixture into a ring mold and allow to set in the re-
frigerator. Remove the meat from a two-pound lobster (the
shell and small claws could be used to enrich the stock)
and cut into neat slices across the grain. Hard boil eggs, peel
and slice, then arrange on the set gelatine. Slices of stuffed
olives may be set around the eggs for extra decoration. Pour
on another layer of gelatine and when it has set arrange
the lobster meat in a neat layer and fill up the interstices
with the remaining aspic. When firm, unmold on a bed of
cress, garnished with sliced cucumbers and serve with mayon-
naise made with lemon juice. This same aspic may be used
for any fish, for shrimps, for hard boiled devilled eggs or,
if meat stock is used, for chicken, veal, or any other meat.
FISH PUDDING
Put two pounds of any fine grained white fish through
the food chopper four times. Mix in a heavy bowl with a
sturdy wooden spoon (or use a mortar and pestle if you're
the proud possessor of one.) Add the whites of six eggs, mix
some more, and force through a sieve. Now add a pint of
whipping cream, some fresh ground pepper (white pepper
if you have it) and one and a half teaspoons of salt. Turn
into a well greased mold — your prettiest, maybe a fish mold
— set in a pan of hot water and bake a half hour at 325 degrees
or until the mixture is firm. Serve with a sauce made by
adding chopped parsley and chives (tarragon, too, if you
have it) to a thin cream sauce made by cooking two table-
spoons of butter with two of flour, adding a cup of thin
cream and seasoning with salt.
LIVERWURST LOAF
Mix two pounds of smoked liverwurst with two cups of
sour cream, a few gratings of fresh nutmeg, a teaspoon of salt
and some fresh pepper. Add either a cup of minced almonds or
pistachio nuts, or a cup of minced green or ripe olives. Pack
into a loaf pan that has been lined with waxed paper and
chill thoroughly. Unmold, peel off the paper and sprinkle
the entire loaf with minced parsley or ice with mayonnaise.
Serve prettily garnished with lemons cut in fancy shapes.
CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MUSHROOMS
Clean a pound of chicken livers and cut in halves. Saute
them in three tablespoons of butter along with a half pound
of mushrooms that have been cut in quarters. Sprinkle with
three tablespoons of flour, add two cups of thin cream, a
quarter of a cup of Californian Sherry and salt and pepper
to taste. Heat and serve. This, too, is a good chafing dish
recipe.
That's just a few of the dishes that can be served at a
Californian Collation. Don't forget kidneys, sweetbreads, tripe,
oysters, baked beans, Welsh rabbit, anything that you think
is good eating. And don't forget that this meal, unlike its
Swedish original, is the entire meal, not the appetizer. You
may serve a dessert if you wish but I think it will be de trop.
Cookies, perhaps, coffee certainly, and a perfect party with-
out a shadow of a doubt.
For your copy of "California Cooks" send $1.00 to THE CALIFORNIAN, 1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California.
49
MILAM
HATS, BAGS, SHOES
Milan for matching accessories is the big
fashion news from California! Wonderful
fun and smart beyond words ... to have
hat, bag, and shoes in this fine Italian straw.
Here is a fresh new accent for your favorite
spring or summer frocks ... an accent on
accessories that solves your problem of co-
ordination of color. There are colors, too,
to blend with any costume . . . from the
soft natural tone to a deep richness of
chocolate, from bright kelly and red to the
sophistication of black. Here's tip-to-toe magic
for your days of sunshine.
If'eyman dress-up hats, bags in Milan straw: (1)
ripple flange, nylon trim, (2) simple velvet trim,
(3) cartwheel with sheer nylon over-brim, (4) leaf
design over maline crown, (5) leaf motif on a
dainty bag, (6) Ted Saval's high heel Milan slipper
with suede platform, (7) cocktail bonnet with net,
(8) simple handbag, (9) with chiffon scarf, (10) Ted
Saval's lower-heeled town shoe in Milan. Exclusive
with Bullock's in California. Mildred Duke sketches.
AYTIME IN I GAY YOUNG WHIRL
'
FOUNDATION FOR BEAUTY
The basis of beauty and style is a lovely figure. The most exquisite gown and
the most fabulous jewels cannot disguise an awkward or ungainly body. And
because the proper foundation garments are of the utmost importance in
achieving and maintaining beautiful body contours, we interviewed the famous
Parisian corsetiere, Madame Suzanne Redares of Mam'zelle Brassieres, in
order to give you the definitive word on the selection and fit of your bras.
WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD WEAR A BRA
The expertly fitted bra, besides making a woman more beautiful and
graceful, is actually an aid to better health and greater vitality. When the
shoulders are slumped or the back is not held straight, muscles, tissues, and
organs cannot assume their natural position and sometimes their natural
function is endangered. With the proper support, a woman can maintain
good posture.
Because breast tissue is extremely delicate it needs firm but unconstricting
support. Excessive pressure is damaging to tissues and lack of support in-
flicts undue strain on the muscles and tissues.
WHAT TO BUY FOR THE IDEAL BRASSIERE WARDROBE
The ideal brassiere wardrobe should include ten bras of three basic types:
(1) six for everyday wear, (2) two for sportswear, and (3) two for evening
or dresswear. Choose colors and styles to suit your wardrobe as well as the
functional needs of your age and figure type. Buy two or three sturdy
nylon bras for everyday wear, a plunging neckline bra for decolletage
fashions, a dainty lace or satin bra for filmy blouses. And choose a variety of
colors . . . black satin or lace for your dark dresses, tailored white for your
classic silk shirts, and perhaps a pale blue or pink purely for glamour
under your spring pastel cottons.
HOW TO OBTAIN THE CORRECT FIT
Bras are available in sizes 30 to 40;
the smallest) to D (for the very full
around-the-body measurement of the bust,
the depth of the breast.
The A cup is designed for the typical junior figure . . . the very small bust
and the wide back. A well built junior bra should bring the flesh from the
sides and from underneath so as to make the bust as large as possible. (This
same principle holds true for the older woman with a small bust). The B
cup is for the average size woman.
Typical C fittings for teenagers may extend to the young matron who has
a small frame and a very full bust. The D cup is designed for the woman
with a fleshy frame and a very large bust. A well-constructed bra for the
full bust should minimize size and provide firm support.
To determine your correct cup size, first measure directly across the bust,
then measure right underneath the bust. If your measurement underneath the
bust is about four inches smaller than your bust measurement, you should
buy an A cup ... if it's six inches smaller, buy a B cup ; and if it's eight inches
smaller, buy a C or D cup.
HOW TO PUT ON A BRA
First hook the bra around your body and slide the straps over the shoulders.
Hold the top edge of the bra cup and bend over from the waist, then adjust
the straps for fit and comfort. Hold the base of the bra down in front so that
it does not ride up, and give the elastic band at the back a downward tug
to make sure the base of the bra lies smoothly in back.
cup dimensions vary from A (for
development). Size refers to the
while the cup size pertains to
Mam'zelle Brassieres of Hollywood, designed for precision fittings, come in the regular sizes A, B, C, D, as well as the half sizes A'/2, B',4, C1/^.
Blouse & Skirt Featuring
MIDRIFF MAGIC
• no alteration problem
• no plackets, no hooks
• it's blouse-gripping
• it's elastic
Add all this to fine quality calico and you have
a gay, summery combination that's a joy to
behold and wear at only
Complete with white con-
trasting blouse or matching
calico blouse. Please speci-
fy preference.
Please add
postage
SO 95
8
7932 West Third St., Los Angeles 36
•Pate
r~
ited
Innova!
ion
by Ardan of California.
City
1 Size
1 10-18
White
1 Blouse .
Matching
Californians
| 3%
Pi
ease
thin
add 2V2% sales tax.
Los Angeles.
IT'S HOBBY TIME
Shrine Convention Hall
May 26th - May 31st
Do you like to build model ships or trains
or airplanes'? Do you indulge in amateur pho-
tography? Do you collect rare coins or stamps?
Do you spend your quiet afternoons doing
needlework ?
In short, do you have a hobby?
Most people — we might even go so far as
to say all people — have some sort of hobby.
If it's not building miniature models of real-
life things, it's gardening. If it's not garden-
ing, it's breeding thoroughbred race horses.
If it's not breeding horses, it's collecting first
editions. If it's not collecting first editions,
it's collecting second editions.
This could go on indefinitely.
But assuming that all of you like hob-
bies as much as we do, we thought that
perhaps you'd be interested to hear of one
of the biggest, most exciting, most compre-
hensive, most colorful hobby shows ever
staged. From May 26th to May 31st, the
nation's manufacturers of hobby items will
display their wares at the Shrine Convention
Hall in Los Angeles. The tremendous range
of displays will include models of trains,
railroads, surreys, airplanes, racing cars,
ships: home workshops complete with power
tools and such: television and radio sets:
cameras: needlework; stamps and coins;
books. There will even be an aquarium. There
will be all sorts of other rare things too.
Amateurs who have unusual hobbies will
display their wares along with the profes-
sional manufacturers. Although the latter will
come from all over the United States, the
amateur entries must be restricted to Los
Angeles. But, as you know, Los Angeles is
somewhat spread out. No dearth of interesting
amateur hobbies is expected.
If you live in Los Angeles and wish to
put your hobby on display, contact the Cali-
fornia Hobby Show at 1307 Westwood Blvd.,
Los Angeles 24. Or simply call ARizona
3-8472.
OINTWKWT
PEUrUMKK* TO BJL KINO OKOD.OK 71
H LTD.
OLOGNES with the traditional
English bouquet, created exquisitely
by Atkinsons of Bond Street,
can now be bought at the finer shops.
GOLD MEDAL
EAU DE COLOGNE
ENGLISH
LAVENDER
ATKINSONS
IMrOITED Bi
PAUL K. RANDALL
299 MADISON AVE., NEW YORK 17, N. V.
GLEAMING COPPER FIVE-PIECE SET
. . . consisting of Spatula, Pot Fork, Ladle,
Skimmer and Hanging Bar. The charm of this
set is enticing, whether used inside, on your
patio, or by the barbecue. The hanging pieces
have 10" handles, and the Bar is 21" long.
All priced at $3.45 each postpaid, and $15.95
for the complete set postpaid. The Copper
Mart, 162 East 86th Street, New York 28,
New York.
PARASOL KNITTING BAG ... gay flow-
ered chintz, parasol-shaped, is this entirely
handmade knitting bag. You'll use it at home,
at the beach, for travelling. Plastic tubing
inside contains slots for 12 knitting needles,
with center designed to hold 2-pointed needles
. . . and ample room for a full dress pattern!
16" high $4.50; 22" high $6.00 prepaid
(Californians add 21/£% sales tax). Custom-
made to match frock, $2.00 extra. Send color
choice — yellow, black, gray, green, pink or
blue predominating — and check or money or-
der to Mary Frances of California, 8881 W.
Pico, Los Angeles 7, Calif.
MOULI GRATER . . . this new rotary grater
is economical — grates every bit, no left-overs;
sanitary — drum is removable for easy clean-
ing; safe — can't cut or scratch you; quick —
crank does the work, no attaching to table-
tops. Sturdily made of high-grade rustproof
steel, for left- or right-handed use. Grates
everything — vegetables, cheese, cocoanut,
breadcrumbs, crackers, chocolate, nuts, hard-
boiled eggs, dry soap ends, etc. — coarse or
fine, as you prefer. This ingenious French
import, yours for only $1.00 postpaid. Fred
Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
THE CAUFORNIAN, May, 1949
55
MAKE IT
YOURSELF
E-Z MAID Child's Pre-Cut
Dress, Ready-to-Sew. Trimmings and
Simple Instructions Included.
$2.25
postpaid
In less time than it would take you to
shop for the materials and pattern —
and at a fraction of the cost — you can
make an adorable dress for your child.
Wonderful color-fast, pre-shrunk cot-
ton fabrics — deep hems — quality but-
tons and trim. Worth $8.00 to $10.00.
Sizes 2-4-6-8. State
size, style, fabric,
color.
(A) Princess Style.
Striped Cotton or
Polka Dots. Green,
Blue or Red.
IB) Ruffled Style.
Striped Dimity.
White, Yellow,
Pink or Blue.
JAY-BEL of CALIFORNIA
228 WEST 4TH STREET, LOS ANGELES 13, CALIF.
ORDER BY MAIL
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR MONEY REFUNDED
!_!'
JAY-BELL OF CALIFORNIA
228 West 4th Street, Los Angeles 13, Calif.
I am enclosing $ , send me the follow-
ing order:
2nd Choice
Style A Size _ Fabric Color Color
2nd Choice
Style B Size Fabric Color Color
Name
Ad d res s _
City
Zone-
State—
(For delivery in California, add 2'/2% sales tax).
California In Books
by hazel alien pulling
The name of John Charles Fremont forms
one of the most insistent notes in all Cali-
forniana. Disturbing rumors attended his ev-
ery activity while he lived, and unsettled his-
torical hypotheses attach to his name today.
Interpretations of this remarkable man abound
but none is more finely perceptive than that
of Alice Eyre who has presented the results
of long years of research in The Famous Fre-
monts and Their America (Fine Arts Press,
1948. 374p. $5.00).
After untangling the dark threads that
have ever obscured the facts of Fremont's
birth, this account passes quickly but sensi-
tively over the period of his childhood, youth
and marriage, to concentrate for the greater
part of the book on the part that Fremont
played in the conquest of California in 1846.
It is a story, somewhat Actionized in style,
that explains with some degree of plausibility
Fremont's apparent disregard of superior offi-
cer orders, a disregard which led to the im-
passe between him and General Kearney
in 1847 and Fremont's later courtmartial. Al-
though Fremont was acquitted of the charge,
his name was not left unscarred. It is this scar
that Alice Eyre has sought to erase; the
case she has made is well worth reading.
Forming a bridge between the past and the
present in California is Charlotte Mauk's
new edition of selected writings of John
Muir, Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada
(Houghton Mifflin, 1948. 132p. $6.00). This
time the selections pertain to California's
natural wonderland, a place of beauty that,
old in Muir's day, is ever new in its con-
stantly changing tones and seasonal renewals.
This time, too, the selection has been par-
ticularly happy, for, for the first time, verbal
pictures from the pen of the master have
been combined with visual images from the
lens of one who is equally a master in his art
— Ansel Adams. Here, where past and present
meet, prose and photography combine to pro-
duce the poetry of the out-of-doors, a poetry
achieved only in somewhat lesser degree by
either artist alone. Together the rhythm is
perfected; the charm of Yosemite and the
Sierra Nevada is inescapable.
Of apparently unending interest is the story
of California's gold rush days. With the first
flush of centennial baiting now past, several
substantial books are now on the market.
Among them is the recent publication by a
Californiana expert, John Walton Caughey,
Gold is the Cornerstone. (University of Cali-
fornia, 1948. 321p. $4.00). This is the story
of the discovery of gold which became the
"cornerstone" for California's settlement and
statehood, and the basis of California's sub-
sequent history. To those who are seeking au-
thority with readability, this book will ap-
peal.
Editor's note: If you would like Dr. Pull-
ing s interpretation or recommendation on fur-
ther Californiana, please write to her in care
of The Californian.
^UoJWar9///^
Italian
and French
Cuisine
PAUL
Your Host
Since 192a
!
8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401
J
ORDER DIRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
c
G.
ifts in the
aitrornia manner
TORSO GLASS AND JIGGER: Ceramic Torso Glass for
highballs, beer. In the shape of a corset-encased torso,
and well-developed, too. Also use for flowers, plants.
Colors: white with color trim; green; yellow; pink;
blue. $1.25, postpaid. Matching ceramic jigger holds
1-oz. ?n bust; a double jigger in base. $1.00 postpaid.
FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a champ
with this trick spinning rope. Comes with complete
directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's spurs in white and
gold medal. Fits over any boot or shoe. $2.95, post-
paid.
MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative
touch for your kitchen . . . and useful, too. Four
plastic measuring spoons, that fit in a floral arrange-
ment into this bright ceramic flowerpot. Gadgets like
this make housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50, postpaid.
No C.O.D, — please. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, please add 21/2°/o sales tax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
TEE CORRAL SHOP
BOX 908 I RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
56
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
y^#^^7
doZL
&WtO\mm Presents —
THREE PART HARMONY EOR THE GOOD OLD SUMMER TIME!
Here's fun for sun-days . . . vacation or playtime wherever you are: brief swing jacket with tiny Man-
darin collar, mitred stripes . . . well-fitting bra, cuffed boxer shorts with zipper closing. "Hollywood
Sportlife" by CARLSON-HALL, in Henry Glass woven striped "Paray" pre-shrunk broadcloth . . . blue,
pink, gray or brown stripes on white: sizes 9-15, 10-18. To retail about Jjp/.VO
For further details write JANE TAYLOR 945 South Los Angeles Street, LOS ANGELES
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
57
COMFORT AIDS when SEWING
or KNITTING
NEK-EEZ — the perfect neck-rest pillow.
Supports neck, shoulder and back muscles
while resting or traveling.
NEK-EEZ—
recommen ded
ed by physi-
cians . . won-
derful for con-
valescents.
Comes with re-
movable, wash-
able, zippered
cover. Soft Ka-
pok-filled . . .
S4.95 postpaid.
Deluxe - Euro-
. ::::
pean goose
down-filled . . .
$7.95 postpaid.
SEW KIT — the practical utility carryall
. . . stands where you want it — and folds
up for storage.
SEW-KIT—
rayon bag with
2 useful pock-
ets on feather-
weight tubular
aluminum
frame. Easv to
carry. 13^"
high, opening
to 13"xl5" . . .
$4.98 postpaid.
No C.O.D.'s. N.Y.C. residents add 2%
sales tax. Folder of unusual gifts gladly
sent.
BEAUMOXD DISTRIBUTORS
Dept. C, 133 Lexington Ave. New York 16, N.Y.
SWEET
and
LOW
A modest
ounce for sum-
mer comfort
with your
shorts, slacks,
skirts, midriffs,
etc. Eliminates
a 1 1 waist-line
bulk.
Breathless
Fine cotton lace
in black or
white.
$3.95
Send hip size.
Include check.
Sorry, no COD.
We prepay all
orders first-
class.
Pamela Qatf
BOX 23C
MELROSE 76, MASSACHUSETTS
ARE YOU DRESSING
CORRECTLY?
You can play up your good points, play
down your figure faults, accent your posi-
tive, appear constantly as a well-dressed
woman if you follow the simple rules in
Dressing by Design, a collection of 10 im-
portant fashion articles from The Califor-
nian Magazine.
Write today for your ?>X\f*
copy
only..
THE CALIFORNIAN MAGAZINE
1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, California
Where To Buy Hollywood Premiere Coordinates
The weekend wardrobe of Hollywood Premiere coordinates featured
on this month's cover is now available at the following stores:
ARIZONA
Hanny's (Goldrings), Phoenix; Albert
Steinfeld, Tucson.
CALIFORNIA
Bragg's, Alhambra; Carpenters, Arling-
ton; Fritzi Ann, Atascadero; Island
Sportswear, Avalon; Corley's, Bakers-
field; Bellflower Sport Shop, Bellflower;
Nobby Knit, Beverly Hills; Irene's,
Calexico ; Dorothy Style, Covina ; Evelyn
Wigton, El Cajon; Joe Rubenstein,
Fresno; Kingsbury's, Fullerton; De
Marrs, Hemet; Jean's, Hermosa Beach;
Lucy's, Hollywood ; Eve Druxman, Hunt-
ington Beach; Ritz Apparel, Ingle-
wood; Edward Scott, La Jolla; Peden's,
Laguna Beach; Bobby Sportswear, Jo-
Kaye, Long Beach; Bullock's, Charles-
ton's, Gude's, Rosemary Shop, Los An-
geles; Jean's, Manhattan Beach; Mod-
ern Eve, Martinez; Lois Parr Style
Shop, Maywood; Bains, Monrovia; Em-
ily's Dress Shop, Monterey Park: Rath-
buns, North Hollywood; Van Dyk, Oak-
land; Charlotte Shop, Oxnard; Roma's,
Palm Springs; Bullock's, Rue's, Pasa-
dena; The Style Shop, Pittsburg; Ro-
berta Powell, Sacramento; Weinstock
Lubin Co., Sacramento; Devenot's, San
Bernardino; Marston Co., San Diego;
Philip Hammer, San Jose; Carolyn
Shop, San Mateo; Rankin Bros., Santa
Ana; Mae Moore, Santa Maria; Hen-
shey Co., Santa Monica; Stockton Dry
Goods, Stockton; Bobbie's, Temple
City; Lois Edwards, Tulare; Ralston's,
Visalia; Steele's, Walnut Creek; Bul-
lock's, Westwood; The Fashion Stores,
Woodland.
CUBA
Sanchez Mola, Havana.
DELAWARE
Braunsteins, Wilmington.
FLORIDA
California Stores, Fort Lauderdale;
Salle Anne, Miami; Lillian Kilpatrick,
Panama City; Bon Marche, Pensacola;
Haber's, Tampa.
GEORGIA
Patricia's, Columbia.
ILLINOIS
Carson Pirie Scott, The Fair, Fashion
Hall, Chicago; Edgar A. Stevens, Evans-
ton; Ackeman Bros., Elgin; Woods
Department Store, Mount Carmel.
INDIANA
Fishman's, Fort Wayne; Wm. H. Block,
Indianapolis.
IOWA
Younker Bros., Des Moines; Roshek
Bros., Dubuque.
KANSAS
Wiley Dry Goods, Hutchinson.
LOUISIANA
Dalton Co., Baton Rouge; Maison
Blanche, New Orleans.
MASSACHUSETTS
Neal's, The Stearn Co., Boston.
MICHIGAN
Greene's, Kline's, Detroit.
MINNESOTA
Anbuhl, Edina; Roy H. Bjorkman, Day-
ton Company, Minneapolis; Harriet
Ames, St. Paul.
MISSISSIPPI
R. E. Kennington, Jackson.
MISSOURI
Kline's, St. Louis.
MONTANA
Cecil's, Missoula.
NEBRASKA
Hovland Swanson, Lincoln; L. Wessel
and Sons, Nebraska City; Goldstein
Chapman, Haas, Omaha.
NEVADA
The Wonder, Reno.
NEW YORK
Frederick Loeser, Brooklyn.
NORTH CAROLINA
Eparle's, Lexington.
OHIO
C. Kestner, Cincinnati.
OREGON
Helen Davis, Astoria; Hermanek's, Eu-
gene; Eastern, Miller Merc, Olds Wort-
man King, Portland.
TENNESSEE
Miller Bros., Chattanooga; Gerber's,
Memphis.
TEXAS
Craig's, Houston; Advance Shop, Mc-
Allen; Jean Ann's, Paris.
UTAH
L. R. Samuels, Ogden; Auerbach Co.,
Salt Lake Knit, Salt Lake City.
WASHINGTON
Helen Davis, Bremerton; Helen Davis,
Everett; Helen Davis, Longview; Helen
Davis, Olympia; Helen Davis, Fashions
from Ruth's, Seattle; Helen Davis, Ta-
coma; Savon's, Palace, Spokane.
WISCONSIN
Gloudeman Gage, Appleton; I. Jacobs
and Sons, Hartland ; Harry Manchester,
Madison.
YOUR INITIAL
DOOR KNOCKER
s,25
Heavy cast brass, lacquered to
prevent tarnishing. Your personal
initial gleams brightly against your
door. 3l/2 inches high, ll/2 inches
wide. Gift Boxed. Si. 25, ppd.
CHARM COTTAGE
"On the Mississippi"
Davenport, Iowa
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO * PITTSBURGH
Pattern Designing, PaR*m Drafting.
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching.
Modeling. Day and EvwMng Clae&ee.
OltaloRTJC B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 28059
Wood & Oliver
Ave.
Pittsburgh.
Pa.
Atlantic 3853
Handmade Leather Pouch Bags
Softest leather is used in this exquisite handmade
pouch bag. It's deep and roomy, all leather lined,
with safety catch fastener. Shoulder straps detach,
so it may be carried as a handbag. Sold exclu-
sively by us. Your choice of saddle brown, choco-
late, seal brown. Continental green, red, black,
navy blue, natural, or pearl white.
til cn (p,us 20% lu*ury *ax»
III.9U 2V2% sales tax in Calif.,
3% sales tax in Los Angeles)
IMPORTERS
Farmers' Market, 3rd at Fairfax, tos Angeles 36, Calif.
ORIGINAL PRINTS:
Produced and hand si J
by the artist in his stl
Framed in one inch
hand wiped, receding nl
ing.
Mounted and matted size
ready for framing 18x22 $1
Framed 18 x 22 $; ;o
Express prepaid, no cod's
Send check or money orde W
The Studio of
GEORGE A. BEYER
726 So. 10»h St., Minneapolis 4, ^
Male 7" tall Female 6'l
South Sea.
BEWITCHING NATIVES
They are enchanting, unique, reproductic
hand-carved walnut wood originals. Ma
fine composition by skilled artists. Handi
ly finished in rich three-tone walnut,
green rayon pile on bases to protect
furniture. Superior in design, quality
workmanship. Excellent gifts for thol,
discriminating taste who have everythinj
a pair of natives. Apron on male ano
on female not included. Prompt shipment*
clusively ours.
$7.00 trie pair, post paid, Check or \
SHEESLEY'S STUDIO
1207 West Washington Boise,
"\ ■
CHINESE SILK SHANTUNG
Handwoven . . fashioned of un-
cultivated silk to impart finer1'
quality, a more interesting tex-
ture, greater strength . . in over,
26 glowing, luxury shades
for draperies . . dresses
blouses . . handbags . . a multi-
tude of uses limited only by
your own imagination . . at , .
3>4«/5 the 33" wide yard I
SEND FOR FULL RANGE
OF COLOR SAMPLES
QJiUniaL
DsxtiL
Importers
38 West 26th St., New York, N.Y.
tn bathers
Protect
Your Eyes
Enjoy a
Restful
Eye
Treatment
icith
•'SUI\OUT"
1CIENTIFICAUY designed to leave NO
■JrKS . . . ■■SUNOUTS" tiny velour
L pck on white to deflect the sun, allow-
mplete relaxation without squinting . . .
■■TS" will not blow off, they cling to
(•lids when saturated with eye lotion or
Hlooling and protecting the delicate eye
Efcerfect for SUNLAMP USE and relax-
■1 nerves . - . use over and over , . .
[Jlpairs $1.00 ppd. . . . Sold by MAIL
3NLY . . . immediate delivery.
SUNOUT"
Rodisill • Fort Wayne 6, Ind.
ILTRA NUES
by PAMELA GAY
| ULTIMATE IN MODERN
and SWIM WEAR!
II-TIDE
10-TIDE
|d high for
mming. Tied
for sunning.
lar discreetly
I shown, or be
daring as
i please!
Ill tie low for
T. x i m u m ex-
Sure and top
jy be worn
ppless.
|LACK WOOL
JERSEY
512.95
,I?-TIDE
*o reveal you
Ifully! If noth-
peets with your
al Ebb - Tide
barely cover
■ements, to say
last!
RAYON JER-
| FACED WITH
IN. WEAR
SIDE OUT.
12.95
"'■a/i measurements. Include check
I order. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s ac-
fcf^- All orders shipped prepaid.
Pamela (jay
BOX 23C
llROSE 76, MASSACHUSETTS
Where To Buy Alice Of California Dresses
The '"Sheer Beauties." designed by Alice of California, appearing
on pages 8 and 9. are available to you now in the following stores:
ALABAMA
Nina's. Alabama City: Vannie's, Mont-
gomery; Jean's, Troy; Loveman's,
Birmingham; Belk-Hudson. Decatur;
Buffington & Pruett, Tuscumbia.
ARIZONA
Fab's, Casa Grande.
CALIFORNIA
Alameda Frocks, Alameda ; Towne Tog-
gery, Annaheim ; Marie's Shop, Angel's
Camp; Carole Ann Shop, Bakersfield;
Scott's and Edith Marshall, Berkeley;
Rachel's, Campbell; Kolb Apparel,
Chula Vista; Mariposa Dress Shop,
Citrus Heights: Town & Country, De-
lano; Town Shop, Dinuba; Fink's,
Dixon; Wigton's, El Cajon; Escondido
Mercantile, Escondido; Town Shop,
Exeter: Polk's, Folsom; Smart Shop,
Gilroy; Town & Country Gown Shop,
and Unger's, Glendale; Mabel New-
comb, Gualala; Raymond's, Hemet; D.
Stewart Co., lone; Fair Lawn Dress
Shop, Lindsay; Polly Petite, Long
Beach: Alice's, Los Angeles; Saba's,
Martinez: My Shoppe, P. J. Scanlon,
Lucille's Dress and Hat Shop, Oakland;
Leonard's, Orland; Hink's, Palo Alto;
Casual- Aire, Palm Springs; Mary
Morey's Shop, Paramount; Elizabeth's
Frock Shop and Trudy's, Pasadena;
Smart Shop, Perris; Bairos, Pleasanton;
Burnip Clothiers, Puente; Margaret's
Dress Shop, Ramona; Canfield's, Rio
Linde; Bird's, Rio Vista; Miller's,
Riverside; Arcega, Naoma's Dress
Shop, Roberta Powell, and Sol's Cloth-
ier, Sacramento; L. B. Rule, St. Hel-
ena; Malen's and Devenot's, San Ber-
nardino; Nu- Vogue Dress Shop, San
Carlos; North Park Dress Shop, San
Diego; Elizabeth C. Durgin, Rose Lee
Dress Shop, Mayfair Tot & Teen, San
Jose; Knoll's Dress Shop, Santa Ana;
Andera's and Wendel's, Santa Barbara;
Johnson & Newman, Shasta; Know
Mercantile, Sonora; Mother & Daugh-
ter Shop, Strathmore: De Paoli's, Sut-
ter Creek; Peggy Jeanne Shop, Up-
land; Levee's, Vallejo; Friendly Valley
Shop, Van Nuys: Pauline Shops, Visa-
lia.
FLORIDA
Ferguson's, Cocoa; Brady's, Eustis:
Betty Richeson, Jacksonville; Beach
Toggery, Jacksonville Beach: Ann's
Style Shop, Orlando; Budget Shop,
Palm Beach; Mary Southworth, Pensa-
cola; Hareley's Style Shop, St. Au-
gustine; Park's, Vero Beach.
GEORGIA
Milady's Shop, Ashburn; Crosby's, Au-
gusta; Mrs. W. D. Williams, Barnes-
ville; G & S Clothing Co., Buckhan-
non; Camp's Fashion Shop, McRae;
Annie Laseter, Madison; B. R. Page
Dept. Store, Vidalio: Mary Frances
Shoppe, Waycross.
IDAHO
Economy Cash, Aberdeen: Gift Shop.
American Falls; The Mode, Burley;
Dee Frock Shop, Rupert; Zimmer-
man's, Twin Falls.
ILLINOIS
Bal Dress Shop, Bon Marche, Breslauer,
Deming Shop, Charles Lipner and E.
Rothman, Chicago.
INDIANA
Cambridge City Dress Shop, Cam-
bridge City; Village Belle Shop, Green-
field; Vogue Frock Shop, Indianapolis;
Robin Lee Shop, Knightstown; Bettie's
Dress Shop, Noblesville.
IOWA
Style Shop, Belmond; Le Ann's Dress
Shop, Sioux City.
KANSAS
Williams Bros. Co., Atwood; Sutter's,
Belleville; Fashion Shop, Burlington;
Hummel Dress Shop, Cherryvale; Mil-
ete's, Dodge City; Scott's, Eldorado;
Howard's, Great Bend; Chandler's Dress
Shop, Herington; Clara Hugos, Hills-
boro; Herschmeyer-Cleary, Lamed:
Stanley's, McPherson; Buck's, Marion;
Hamburg's Store, Marysville; Killian's,
Minneapolis; Meehan's , Pittsburg;
Stiefel Stores Co., Salina; Attwood
Style Shop, Smith Center.
MICHIGAN
House of Gaynell and Mary Don's
Shoppe, Detroit; Myrtrude Shop, Im-
lay City; Sprowl Bros., Lansing; Dun-
ning's, Plymouth.
MINNESOTA
Peggy Ann Shop. Duluth; Whipkey's
Dress Shop, Worthington.
MISSISSIPPI
The Sanders Co., Jackson.
MONTANA
Hart-Albin Co., Billings; Valentine's,
Conrad; Duncan's, Cut Bank: Gladd
Shop, Fairview; The Hub, Great Falls;
Karl Johnson, Miles City; Ferguson
Mercantile Co., Rawling; Mina Cor-
saut, Roundup; Modern Lady Shop,
Sidney; Federated Stores, Wolf Point.
NEBRASKA
H. H. Reese, Chappell; Marjorie's
Style Shop, Columbus.
NEVADA
MiLady's Shop, Battle Mountain; Love-
lock Mercantile Co., Lovelock; Golden
Rule Store, Wells.
NEW JERSEY
Mo'derne Shop, Wildwood.
NORTH CAROLINA
Smith's Clothing Co., Clover; The
Hub, Concord; Mullinax, Inc., Gaffney.
OHIO
Sara's, Dover; Barnett's Ladies Ap-
parel, Mt. Vernon.
OREGON
Madras Dress Shoppe, Madras; Jacque-
line's, Oregon City; Bonham & Cur-
rier, Portland; Little French Shop,
Salem.
PENNSYLVANIA
Leader Store, Hanover; Laudermilch's,
Lebanon.
SOUTH CAROLINA
Rubenstein's, Anderson.
SOUTH DAKOTA
York's Golden Rule, Belle Fourche:
Smart Shop, Custer; Bidne's, Flan-
dreau; Model Hat Shop, Hot Springs;
Adrian Shop, Huron; Suz Ann Shop,
Sturgis.
TENNESSEE
Proffitts, Athens; Miller Brothers, Chat-
tanooga: Jo-Ann Shop, Johnson City;
S. H. George Co., Knoxville; Levy's,
Memphis; Loveman's, Nashville; Lib-
bys, Uniontown.
TEXAS
Poe's Ready-to-Wear, Amarillo; The
Chic Shop, Balmorhea; Given Bros.,
El Paso; Joske's, San Antonio.
UTAH
Mary Pulley, American Fork; Firm-
age's, Provo.
VIRGINIA
Riddleburger's, Strasburg.
WASHINGTON
Bertilson's Dress Shop, Arlington ;
Drew's, Castle Rock; Chelan Style
Shop, Chelan; Elvin C. Olson, Cle
Elum, Gerald Rhodes, Ellensburg; C.
E. Blackwell, Okanogon; Paulson's
Salon, Olympia; Rae Marie, Omak;
Ola Robbins, Pateros; Buchanon's Ap-
parel and Celia Jeanne, Seattle; Berh-
man's and Terrace Heights Sports Shop,
Yakima- WISCONSON
The Band Box, Ashland; Nathan Gold-
berg, Beloit; Pandora Dress Shop,
Bloomer.
WYOMING
Hollywood Shop, Cheyenne; Mary Jane
Shop, Laramie: Betty Ann Shop, River-
ton; Ellen B. Walker, Rock Springs:
Smart Shop, Torrington.
"FIND YOUR STAR'
Which Movie Star Arc You LikeT
Regardless of where or who you are, you
do look like a Movie Star. Let Thelma
Ray "FIND YOUR STAR," and learn
how that Star can be your style and
beauty guide.
Be as Glamorous as Your Star
ThelmaRay is one of Hollywood's leading
authorities on fashions and Movie Stars.
Let her help you. She give* personal
attention to every letter.
To "FIND YOUR STAR," send your
picture, age, occupation, height, weight,
color of eyes and hair, and $2.00 to
cover cost of research to:
THELMA RAY
"FIND YOUR STAR"
Box 413 Hollywood 28, Calif.
KRUMKAKE
1DAM
FOR LUSCIOUS
SCANDINAVIAN PASTRIES
For something truly differ-
ent to brighten your next
buffet luncheon or party,
serve crisp, flaky Krum-
kake, a Scandinavian
pastry. Its recipe has
been handed down
through many genera-
tions. Krumkake is
made only with the
type iron shown
above. The new,
improved model re-
tains the unique de-
sign emblazoned
upon irons used
centuries ago; incorporates a cup to catch ex-
cess grease. Aluminum. Easy to handle. Com-
plete with recipe booklet and wooden roller,
S4.95.
Add 25c for postage and
± shipping.
THE RUSTAD CO.
1330 W. Iowa St.
St. Paul 4. Minnesota
$495
Wanted
BROKEN
JEWELRY
All kinds. Highest
cash prices for jew-
elry, rings, spectacles, gold teeth,
diamonds, broken and usable
watches, sterling, etc. Prompt re-
mittances. Satisfaction guaranteed.
WRITE FOR FREE
SHIPPING CONTAINER
LOWE'S Dept. a
Holland Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
59
OMttQJJL
lean, dufeauv
OF CALIFORNIA
Crisp and dainty as a paper doily . . . gay as granny's best
square dance dress! Jean Durain does this series of party
and play dresses in Bates dainty picolay trimmed with
frontier calico, eyelet edging and French val lace. China
White with Rose Red and Forget-me-not-blue calico,- Pink
with Prairie Brown and Pink calico,- Maize with Forget-
me-not Blue and Maize calico . . . Sizes 3-6 and 7-12.
JEAN DURAIN ■ 230 SO. LOS ANGELES ST., LOS ANGELES 12, CALIFORNIA
60
THE CALIFORNIAN, May, 1949
Two wonderful, dressy suits in Oscar Hayman's shimmering bengaline.
Unlined and expertly tailored for enduring beauty. At left is our
MISS-IN-B-TWEEN proportioned for those 5 feet 4. or under.
At right, our regularly proportioned Suit. Both come in beautiful
Navy Blue, Rose, Beige or Ice Blue. Each in sizes 10 to 18.
EACH AT 25.00
Made by Max Kopp . . 818 South Broadway, Los Angeles 14, California .
THE CAM FORNI AN. May, 1949
61
,
jewels by Cartier
the tailoring
is precious
. . . the tailoring as in til
Jtiosenblum suits ana top
coats is as fine as tailoring
can be, tne drape i
perfect, the movement i
easy ana elegant, th
details including hand-
picked edges are superb
The news is the new longei
cardigan, over-size patcl
pockets, pencil -slim skirl
In finest quality lOfffi
virgin wool fabrics, dwini
colors . . . covert 35.VI
. . . doeskin flannel Ao.w
. . .gabardine 49.95.
sizes 10 to 20 . . . tli
finest tailored suits, thi
best tailored suit values w
America . . . at most stores.
Rosenblum, Los Angeles
MAN -tailored in C alifornia
X
w
rt***
H"
^ C
\ ou, in Picolay the color of
fresh May flowers . . . purely feminine,
purely flattering cotton with a
permanently embossed finish
exclusive with Bates. Here, Picolay
makes your first and favorite
new spring dress by Teena Paige.
BATES FABRICS, INC.
80 Worth Street, New York 13
fresh-as-a-daisy Dan River cotton
—to give you that fresh-as-a-daisy look this Summer. The reason—
a new approach to color-styling, bringing California's sun-lit pastels togethe
in unexpected ways. Fast color, Sanforized*, fully washable.
Dan River Mills, Inc.
*Fcbric shrinkage no more than 1%
J
, 'A
IT'S A
DAN RIVER
FABRIC
<g>
x^
A MAGAZINE STYLED FOR COLORFUL LIVING
TWO WINNERS
I:.
AND MISS AMERICA
Miss America chooses Catalina's "Poppy"
for her very own! The Celanese Prospector
front is a handscreened print of poppy,
turquoise, palm green, or black,
backed by solid color satin lastex. A
see-worthy suit that's "his" favorite for
his favorite. Sizes 32 to 38.
$15
today consumers want
for Father's Dav
patterns
styles
colors
Suits, sport coats, casual
jackets, sport shirts and slacks ....
all are authentic style originations
by Jackman. Available at
these fine stores:
ARIZONA
Phoenix, Porter's
CALIFORNIA
Los Angeles, Bullocks'
Beverly Hills, Jerry Rothschild
San Francisco, Hastings
COLORADO
Denver, Gano-Downs Company
ILLINOIS
Chicago, Maurice L. Rothschild Co.
INDIANA
Indianapolis, L. S. Ayres & Co.
LOUISIANA
New Or/eons, The Leon Godchaux Clothing Co.
MASSACHUSETTS
Boston, Louis, Inc.
MICHIGAN
Detroit, Scholnick's, Inc.
MISSOURI
Kansas City, Woolf Bros.
NEW YORK
New York City, Leighton's, Inc.
OHIO
Cleveland, The Halle Bros. Co.
PENNSYLVANIA
Pittsburgh, Larrimor's
TENNESSEE
Memphis, Julius Lewis, Inc.
TEXAS
Dallas, Neiman-Marcus Co.
Fort Worth, John L. Ashe, Inc.
WASHINGTON
Seattle, Prager's
WISCONSIN
Milwaukee, MacNeil & Moore
TERRITORY OF HAWAII
Honolulu, M. Mclnerny, Ltd.
Be Carefree ... Be Casual ... in California's Newest Sensation*
tt&e ^cuvcAa ^>aadb
by MAM'ZELLE
All the uplift and contour molding of the
famous Mam'zelle Brassiere is in this
Rancho Bando — the smartest, gayest
midriff blouse of the season.
At tennis, golf, gardening, on the beach
or shopping tour, you'll feel your best in
this cool, carefree creation.
Wear it with a skirt — with shorts or pedal
pushers . . . select the gay prints for day-
time activity — the white for evening wear.
... in colorful prints of red, blue,
green and gold, with white trim
at §2.95. In all-white rayon poplin
with contrasting trim of red, gold,
green or blue at $3.95. Sanforized;
fast colors. Sizes: 32, 34, 36 and 38.
See them in better sportswear de-
partments and corset shops — or
send money order direct, together
with name of your favorite store.
a^n
BRASSIERES
6558 SAXTA MONICA BOIILEVARD . HOLLYWOOD 38, CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
Caltex
adds something new to their
famous sun-soft dull-finish
water classic with built-in "sea-bra"
for contour control —
^6 t*M
Qfi
/ft
■',"
Colors: sea foam,
pineapple, spruce green,
cruise blue.
One-piece suit,
sizes 12 to 20.
Two-piece style,
sizes 10 to 16. $13.95
Buff urns'
LONG BEACH 2, CALIFORNIA
MAIL ORDERS plus 2»% slate sales tax
Buffums' Sun-Charm Fashions ®
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
In silk Shantung. About $40 at J. J. Haggarty's, Los Angeles; Bullock's Pasadena.
Co.
San Jose, Hale's
Sfocfcfon, The Brown House
NDIANA
Marion, Resneck's
NEW JERSEY
Bridgeport ,
The Hollywood Shop
TEXAS
Housfon, Sakowitz Bros.
VIRGINIA
Richmond. Miller & Rhoads
• ^WUitJ presents MATCHED BAGS AND BELTS FROM CALIFORNIA
Newest fashion rage . . . the repeated importance
of matched accessories. Created especially for
Jane Taylor in finest California leather, dyed in
brilliant California tones of palomino yellow, pine
green, saddle brown, smoke tan, midnight blue,
tile red. Deluxe handbags by FRANK EMMET
voluminous with quality finishing . . belts in matching
colors of the same leather, by PHIL SOCKETT,
with fine hardware. Wonderful to wear with
skirts, suits, or with dresses.
BELTS, top left, $1.95; top right, $1.50; below, $2.50. HANDBAGS all at $10.95
For further details write JANE TAYLOR 945 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles
THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc.. at 1020 S. Main St.. Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U.S.A. Yearly sub-
scription price S3. 00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office. Los Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879.
JUNE
1949
A&J
At better stores everywhere
or write to Louella Ballerino
333 W. 2nd St., Los Angeles
J
SAM HILL
w«
*
S3S2 te
% i * *t mh I! ," 2t
f
Contour Magic
FOR EVERY AGE — EVERY SIZE
IN CONTROL-LIFT BRASSIERES
BY T&ObctelUl OF HOLLYWOOD
To Cordelia, famous designer of Hollywood, there is no such thing
as a "problem bust." Cordelia creates beautiful contours where
only unattractive lines formerly appeared. In the Cordelia line of
surgical and corrective brassieres, there are over 600 different
fittings — each one de-
signed to "do things" for
you. In long-line styles
(as illustrated) sizes
range from 32 to 56+.
You'll like the exquisite
fabrics Cordelia uses,
too — fine jacquards,
broadcloths, and nylons
...all in styles designed
to create new contour
beauty for the lady
with a figure problem.
Cordelia creates for the young woman too — recognizing that even
young women frequently have figure problems. Cordelia's 600- plus
individual fittings include all the youthful sizes, in all the newest and
most desirable fabrics, in the season's popular shades — nude, white,
or black. Cordelia brassieres are available at all better department
stores and specialty shops. If your nearest dealer doesn't appear
below — write for name of the store nearest you featuring:
otc^eCccc
OF HOLLYWOOD
CREATORS AND MANUFACTURERS OF SURGICAL AND CORRECTIVE BRASSIERES
NOW AT THESE FINE STORES IN CALIFORNIA:
ALHAMBRA — Thelma Edmunds
BAKERSFIELD— Kimball & Stone; Tara's
Corset Shop
BERKELEY— Dorel's; J. F. Hink; Rose Sorini
BEVERLY HILLS — Lupi's
BURBANK— Budget Baby Mart
BURLINGAME— Kay Burt
COLUSA — J. J. O'Rourke Dept. Store
CORONA — Town Shop
COVINA— McElfresh's
ETNA — Pullen Dress Shop
FRESNO — Cooper's Dept. Store
GLENDALE — Laura Green Co.;
Milady's Bazaar
HOLLYWOOD — Broadway-Hollywood Dept.
Store
HUNTINGTON PARK— Wineman's Dept.
Store
INGLEWOOD— Princess Shop
LAGUNA BEACH— Deauville Shoppe
LONG BEACH— Barcley Shop
LOS ANGELES— Bullock's; Cortland's; The
Cosette Shop (1425 So. Robertson Blvd.);
Coulter's Dry Goods Co.; Gladys Van Al-
styne; Hillman Corset Shop; Kruger Sur-
gical Co.; Linna Reed Slenderizing Salon;
McGafTey Girdle Shop; Medical Engineer-
ing Co.; Mildred's; National Baby and Cor-
set Shop; Page Boy Maternity Shop; Pin
Up Togs; Susan's Sportswear; Toney's Gir-
dle Shop; Wilshire Carthay Corset Shop.
MODESTO — Sperry Corset Shop
MT. SHASTA CITY— Gilda's Ladies' Apparel
Shop
NORTH HOLLYWOOD— Top's Wearing
Apparel Inc.
OAKLAND— C. H. Hittenberger Co.
OXNARD — Rainsbruck Maternity Shop
PALO ALTO— Kay Nichols
PASADENA— Lieberg's; T. W. Mather Co.;
Page Boy Maternity Shop
POMONA— Alfred Gray
REDDING — Vivian's
REDLANDS — Minnie L. Ohmstede
RIVERSIDE — Hamel's Ladies' Shop
SACRAMENTO— The Corset Shop
SALINAS — Francis Mahler Corset Shop
SAN BERNARDINO— Alma's Corset Shop;
The Harris Co.
SAN DIEGO — The Marslon Co.; North Park
Corset Shop; Studio Styles
SAN FRANCISCO— Grace Campbell Inc.; C.
H. Hittenberger Co.; Morris and Morrill
Co.; Page Boy Maternity Shop; Wheeler's
Corset Shop
SAN JOSE — Cavanaugh Surgical Co.;
Thelma Richardson; Vogue Shop
SAN LEANDRO— Bonnie's
SAN LUIS OBISPO— Riley's
SAN MATEO — Boehm's; Eve Young
SAN RAFAEL — Medico Drug
SANTA ANA — Rankin Dry Goods Co.
SANTA BARBARA — Petit Corset Specialty
Shop
SANTA CRUZ — Samuel Leask & Sons
SANTA MARIA — Ames & Harris
SANTA MONICA— Cornell's
STUDIO CITY— The Knights; Prelude
Maternity Shop
SUNSET BEACH— Lenore B. Cross
SUSANVILLE — Anderson's Specialty Shop
SUTTER CREEK— Mary E. Payne
TAFT — Pruiett's
TEMPLE CITY— Leora Blessinger Dress Shop
TURLOCK— Town Shop
VALLEJO— Kay Nichols
VAN NUYS — The Duchess
VENTURA— Mrs. Althea V. Godfrey
VISALIA— Grace Shop
WATSONVILLE— Daly Bros.
WESTWOOD— The Pinafore Shop
WHITTIER — Myers Dept. Store
CORDELIA OF HOLLYWOOD • 3107 BEVERLY- BOU LEVARD • LOS ANGELES 4, CALIFORNIA
10
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
TIDY TOES ... the California Tabbies
with two-button back closing. These adorable
foot-mittens are so comfy you'll forget you
have them on . . until you hear the compli-
ments they rate! For lounging, dorm, patio
and pool, Tabbies are styled for wearability.
Softest satin in black, white or pink; and
quilted chintz in red, yellow, green or blue.
Sizes S-M-L. Send check or money order
for $3.95 (plus 10c tax in California, 12c
in Los Angeles) to The Margorita Shop. 1018
South Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif.
ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth.
A summery delight is this gay table cloth
. . . just throw it 'round the pole and zip it
up ! Hand-printed in attractive basket weave
of mercerized cotton, richly colored in red
and white; blue and white; or green and
white. It fits any garden table, round or
square. Just $4.95 postpaid. Californians add
2]/2% sales tax, 3% in Los Angeles. Match-
ing ready-hemmed napkins, 18" wide, just 40c
each. Send your orders to The Margorita
Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles
15, Calif.
SPATTER SHIELD . . . here's a wonderful
innovation for cooking pleasure. An enter-
prising housewife designed this Spatter Shield
to keep her stove and walls clean by shielding
them from cooking grease and splatters. Now
it's available to all of us. A "kitchen must"
to enjoy spotless kitchens and yet fry chicken,
steaks, chops and fish crisply in the open
... it fits neatly around the sides and back of
any skillet, folds into a small flat package
for easy storage. A real buy at $1.00 post-
paid. Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Bev-
erly Hills, Calif.
SHADOW BOXES ... of Ponderosa pine.
You'll want to be the interior decorator with
these lovely shadow boxes, the answer to
"where to keep it." For knick-knacks, photos,
plants, perfumes, miniatures, toys, spices.
12" square, 3V£" deep. Leave them natural,
paint or stain any color. Set of two inter-
locked boxes, $1.75; two sets, $3.25. Post-
age paid, add 2l/2% sales tax in California.
3% in Los Angeles. Fred L. Seymour Co.,
Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
FOR FATHER'S DAY . . . he'll be de
lighted with this Razorbank, ingeniously con-
trived to hold dozens of used razor blades.
He'll like the amusing face, and the cute
verse inside, too. 4" high, compactly de-
signed to fit on the bathroom shelf, and ar-
ranged for re-fills. This clever ceramic con-
tainer makes an appealing and practical gift
for the men in your family. Razorbank is
just $1.50 postpaid, from The Margorita
Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15,
Calif.
HOW DO YOD LOOK?
Which Figure Is Yours?
Do you know how to dress your particular
figure? Do you know how to play up your
good points, play down your figure faults?
Dressing by Design is a famous fashion de-
signer's notebook . . it's a coordinated col-
lection of 10 important fashion articles that
tell you simply, and graphically, how to dress
to your personality . . and your figure.
Do You Know How To Accessorize?
Dressing by Design tells you how to achieve
accessory balance with each outfit you wear.
How to appear, constantly, as a well-dressed
woman.
Do You Know How To Harmonize?
Do you know how to select fabrics and styles
that become you? Dressing by Design does
these things for you . . in an easy-to-read,
easy-to-understand booklet . . with each sub-
ject graphically illustrated for your reference.
• It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll
want to keep . . for only 50 cents. It's a di-
gested course in design for dressing that
could cost you ever so much more. And it's a
wonderful gift for others as well.
DRESSING BY DESIGN
Write For Your Copy Today
Simply fill in the coupon below and mail
with SO cents )or each copy, postage paid.
To: The Californian, 1020 S. Main St.,
Los Angeles 15, Calif.
Please mail my copies of
DRESSING BY DESIGN tel
(Name)
(Address))
(City, Zone and State)
Enclosed is payment for □ copies.
fHE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
II
Ite-1*
/^n f°bt,C' Lde* °<* \
x
Nfa*;
Calfex uses your
favorite Rippletide
for this two-piece
Water Classic.
Figure-flattering
shirred skirt and
adjustable bra.
Inviting pastel
Sun Shades.
Sizes 10-18, $13.95
Write and well tell you where...
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
— ^tf
.Wftw*—
COPPER FRENCH DRIP COFFEE
MAKER . . . designed for gracious living.
Every morning is "beautiful" when flavor-
ful coffee arrives made in this handsome
gleaming solid copper coffee pot, tin lined.
It makes two American cups, or you can
made four demi-tasse cups after dinner. As
a gift to the newlyweds, it's matchless.
Priced at $5.50 postpaid. The Copper Mart,i
162 East 86th Street, New York City 28,'
N. Y.
POURITE. PACKING POURING SPOUT
. . . the new save-way to pour, this will
save soap, foods, all packaged items . . .
save your temper and your fingernails, too!
It's a stainless steel rustproof perforator
with a plastic spout that automatically opens
any cardboard carton and converts the box
into an easy-to-use container. Free-pouring
and non-clogging, Pourite fits securely and
is self-locking. You'll want several for the
household. In red, green or yellow, 3 for $1
postpaid. Fred L. Seymour Company, Box
1176, Beverly Hills, Calif.
BRIDAL STOCKINGS FIT FOR A
QUEEN . . . breathtaking beauty is hers with
these DuPont nylons, featuring hand-ap-
pliqued silk Chantilly lace inserts with can-
delabra or butterfly patterns. Ivory white,
sizes 8 to 11, custom made for about $15.00.
Pastels for the bridesmaid, 15 denier nylon,
in heavenly shades of blue, pink, orchid, yel-
low or green. Sandal- or shell-foot, sizes 8
to 11, 82.50 the pair. Marshall Field's, Chi-
cago; Stix, Baer & Fuller, St. Louis; Sage
& Allen, Hartford; May Company Wilshire,
Los Angeles. Or write Willvs of Hollywood,
1141 North Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif.
DAGWOOD'S DELIGHT ... the Toas
Tite, for every sandwich lover. This newest
cookery creation, Toas-Tite, makes drip-proof
sandwiches sealed in golden hot toast. For
lunch, midnight snacks, picnics and parties,
you'll concoct delicious sandwiches with cold
meat and sandwich spreads, bacon and eggs,
vegetables, and fruit compotes for dessert.
Use it on a kitchen stove, outdoor grill, hot
plate, or bonfire for these luscious toasted-in :
sandwiches. Toas-Tite, with recipes, just
$3.00 postpaid (plus 8c tax in Calif.) Fred
L. Seymour Company, Box 1176, Beverly
Hills, Calif.
12
MIGHTY SHARP ... for picnicking,
camping, fishing . . . unique knife and fork
fit together, forming easy-to-carry kit for
pocket, picnic basket or pack. Pull apart
sturdy plastic handles and presto — the stain-
less steel knife and fork are ready to use.
Metal parts solidly bonded to handles, built-
in bottle opener on fork. 7I4" long. 1" wide,
Y2" thick assembled. This attractive knife
and fork set makes an excellent gift. Ivory,
red or green. §1.15 each, six for S6.00 post-
paid. C.O.D. charges extra. Housewares
Dept., Pig 'N Whistle Shop, Dept. C, 410
W. Michigan Ave., East Lansing, Mich.
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
ISI-FLO. THE SAVING SYPHON . . .
ladds zest to any drink, saves the sparkle in
I drink mixes, even makes ice cream sodas at
jhome! You'll make drinks the professional
I way, and the kiddies'U enjoy cool summer
I sodas with this durable, versatile chrome
Isyphon. Use on 12-ounce or quart bottles —
ljust one light touch and Si-Flo mixes with-
jout stirring. Excellent for Father's Day. Beau-
Itifully gift packaged, with two unbreakable
Isyphon tubes, only SI. 95 postpaid. Send
I check, money order or C.O.D. to Golden Dis-
I tributing Co., 7218 Santa Fe Avenue, Hunt-
jington Park, Calif.
HAND-TOOLED COPPER ... is this
I wonderfully well-made cigarette box, hand-
I hammered and hand finished. The rich an-
I tique coloring makes a flattering and ornate
I accompaniment for all types of furniture.
Lined with California redwood, it's attrac-
tive as well as useful . . . and the felt-
covered base is a perfect protection for table
tops. For your home, and as a gift, $6.75
postpaid. Send your check or money order
to Dalo Products, 1801 S. Flower, Los An-
geles 15, Calif.
STOP THAT PEEKING . . . here's the
new No-Peek-O, the smart streamlined alum-
inum set that prevents peeking in gin rummy
and canasta games. It keeps the cards in
neat order, and the cleverly designed felt
base protects your table top and prevents
slipping. You'll want several for yourself
and for unusual gifts. They're attractively
packaged and available in beautiful shades
of blue, green or red. Postpaid, only $1.00.
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. Order direct from the
Balas Manufacturing Company, 1550 East
27th Street, Cleveland 14, Ohio.
BASKI-BAG ... in no time flat this
adorable Chinese basket is made, for summer
accessorizing in colors to match all your
sportswear. Grommeted durable desert cloth
top, with leather thongs, needle & thread,
complete instructions (just 16 stitches and
the bag's complete). Woven baskets, 8"
round or 7" x 9" oval, in natural, red, char-
treuse, cocoa, navy and black; tops in red,
lime, Mojave rust, turquoise, adobe tan or
navy. Only S2.00 postpaid. Send check or
money order, stating basket shape, color of
top and bottom, to Bauman-Henson, 214
East Fourth Street, Long Beach 12, Calif.
GLEAMING SOLID COPPER SERVER
. . . quaintly designed, may be used for serv-
ing hot coffee, milk, cream, syrup. Use it for
sparkling hot water for that afternoon tea. It
is tin lined and holds U/2 pints. Complete
with a graceful walnut handle for easy-
serving. A unique gift to the bride. Priced
at $7.95 postpaid. The Copper Mart, 162
East 86th Street, New York City 28, N. Y.
■HEH9BMHMH
(,
f
m Jl <"t|
Xg£M
■';■;-
Km
Caltex own 2-in-l Classic
flatters and assures the
freedom of a two-piece
and security of a one-piece
swimsuit. Its Sun Fabric
is elasticized Jacquard.
The Sun Shades are
Chalk Pink, Tourmaline
Blue, Pastel Yellow,
Champagne. Siies 10-20,
$17.95.
fe and we'll tell you where...
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4
THE CAUFORNIAN, June, 1949
13
At all fine stores for about $100.00, or write ADELE-CALIFORNIA, 2615 So. Hill St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Available at these fine stores:
RKANSAS
Hot Springs, Hubert Mendel
kRIZONA
[ Tucson, Ethel Canfield
] Phoenix, Goldring's
Jalifornia
Stockton, The Brown House
San Francisco, Hole's Grant Ave
Son Jose, Hale's
Los Angeles, J. J. Haggarty
Bakers field.. Vaughn's
A I ham bra.. Fayes
Pasadena, Myles Sportswear
West los Angeles, Bullock's
Beverly Hills, Town & Travel
Hollywood, Nancy's
Long Beach, DeAnno
Sherman Oaks, Julie's
Huntington Parle, Leone's
LLINOIS
Danville, Parisian
Freeport, F. A . Read Co .
NDIANA
Fort Wayne, D. B. Fishman Co.
UCHIGAN
Detroit, Kline's
Flint, A. M. Davison
Grand Rapids, Sarrefs
Plymouth, ToylorBlyton
IORTH CAROLINA
Kinston, The Co-Ed Shop
JEW MEXICO
Lovington, The Specialty Shop
(I EVA DA
las Vegas, Magic Eye
Reno, Clothes Rack
IREGON
Portland, Chas. F. Berg
Salem, Esther Foster
Eugene, Hadley's
ENNSYLVANIA
Harrisburg, Junior Dress Shop
lENNESSEE
| Chattanooga, Miller Bros. Co.
Nashville, Cain Sloan Co.
YEST VIRGINIA
Wheeling, Stone & Thomas
WASHINGTON
Bremerton, Barr's Apparel
Spofcane, Spokane Dry Goods
%Pf**h
fc
presents An Outstanding- New Deauville Model
unusual in style . . . and
an amazing value!
Manuel Felix conceived this mannish collar-band Deauville
Model's shirt in cool waffle-weave pique by Stoeffel for your
hottest summer blouse promotion to date! An extra collar, too,
for extra customer appeal in white, pink or blue, $5.95 retail.
Also available in white cotton madras men's shirting and white
rayon shantung, also $5.95 together with collar. Wire or phone
vour orders for this "extra" summer!
For further details write JANE TAYLOR, 945 South Los Angeles St., Los Angeles
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
15
CO HAM A
A DIVISION OF UNITED MERCHANTS & MANUFACTURERS. INC.
WCtf
Cohama lifts a magic wand
and lo! Jungo*. . . a more-than-
fine rayon suiting that's
crease resistant, crispy cool.
Deanna Dee achieves a striking effect
in a suit combining gaily
striped jacket with contrasting
solid color collar and pockets to
match the solid color skirt.
*PRINTED IN CALIFORNIA BY UNITED PIECE DYE WORKS
16
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
mmm
: 1* "
■ • ii , •„_-.:- -l Fi ■ .*■'
%
Fabric tells the Fashion Story
. . . With a gardenful of color to
capture the joy of living.
It's Fluegelman's Westbrooke . . .
a fine Sanforized broadcloth.
The dress, Country Dance, a
Sue Mason Jr. 9 to 15, about $15.
At fine stores everywhere, or
write SABA of California,
860 South Los Angeles Street,
Los Angeles 14, California.
uegelman & CO., inc.
1412 Broadway, New York 18, New York
Los Angeles Representative: Robert S. Scott, 819 Santee Street, Los Angeles 14, California
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
17
For resort or travel wear, a checked topper by
Adele of California with wonderful deep cuffs,
slash pockets, and a velvet collar . . . worn here
by Dolly McVey, one of the three winners of the
National Calendar Contest sponsored by the Dr.
Pepper Co. Photographed on the tennis courts of
the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. In sizes 10-18.
About $80. At J. J. Haggarty. Los Angeles.
l«
ft
-
85
ON THE COVER:
Vacation basic . . . swim-
suit that glorifies a pretty
figure! Caltex one-piece
version in a ripple-plaid
woven with las/ex yarn.
The sea-bra is inimitable
for figure control. In navy
with brown or green, in
sizes 12-20, about SI 7.00.
At Bufjums'. Long Beach.
Photographed at Ocean-
house by Tom Binford.
©
=
a
s
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER J. R. Osherenko
ASSISTANT PUBLISHER William J. Bowen
FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason
FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon
MANAGING EDITOR Alice Carey
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Philip Kustner
MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf
FASHIONS Jacquelin Lory
Barbara Bailey
Margaret Paulson
FEATURES Helen Ignatius
Hazel Allen Pulling
ART _ „ Morris Ovsey
Anne Harris
John Grandjean
Jane Albrecht
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Frank Stiffler
SHOPPING ROUNDUP Hazel Stall
FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown
California fashions
Vacation Clothes Just For Fun 22
Beauty Is The Keynote 24
For Country Living 26
Denim For Summer — 28
Square Dance Cottons . - - - 30
A Basis For Beauty . 37
Summer Fancies - 39
How Old Is Fashion? . 40
Summer Extras - - 42
California features
The Story Of Ojai Valley 20
Ceramic Art Achieving World Wide Fame 32
Designs For Script Or Life — 34
California living
Symphony In Color .... 36
Take Inspiration From An Artist - 44
California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 46
THE CALIFORXIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali-
fornia, PRospect 66S1. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager,
370 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExington 2-9470; San Francisco Office, Leonard
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1+72; Chicago Office, H. Thorpe Covington, 21 West
Huron St., Chicago 10, 111., Superior 7-5835; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year;
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con-
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered
as second class matter Januarv 25, "1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California,
under act of March, 1S79. Copyright 1949 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A.
Reproduction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized.
whisper of legends and a wealth of
beauty combine to endow Ojai Valley.
California, with the charm that lures
visitors . . . and with the fascination
that holds them in spite of the time-clock
existence on the other side of the
mountains.
Centuries ago, it is said. Indians dis-
covered this fabulous valley and named
it Ojai, "The Nest," and they jour-
neyed to the perfection of the valley
to hold their important religious ceremonies. In
a less commendable search for refuge. Joaquin
Murietta the Terrible, many years later, thun-
dered through the giant passes to hide from pursuit
in the lush shelter of the valley. For to all, Ojai
seems to hold a promise of peace, and its ring of
towering mountains holds the world at bay while
the spirit relaxes.
Today quite a few notable spirits relax in the
same balmy sunshine, but in the new world luxury
of the Ojai Valley Inn and Country Club, meet-
ing place of socialites and satellites, movie stars
and industrialists.
The Inn, built on a gently rising crest in the
heart of the valley, is an architectural triumph
merging the beauty of a low rambling hacienda
with modern clubhouse and hotel accommodations.
Decorated by Barbara Barondess MacLean, who
originated distinctive designs for walls, lamps, and
draperies, the Inn presents an interior aspect of
grace and charm.
Guests have a choice of many diversions in this
200-acre wonderland. One of the finest golf courses
challenges sportsmen from all over the world . . .
and the possibility of a quartet after the game
including Bing Crosby and Al Demarejt, the pro,
is enough to arouse interest in the most hopeless
dub.
Tennis and badminton courts are available . . .
a private stable of horses and hundreds of miles of
The Storv of
Ojai Valley
bridle paths are inducements to the visitor to ex-
plore the countryside.
The swimming pool, cabanas, and buffet attract
the sun-worshippers who snap their fingers at the
madness of the "noon-day sun" and refuse to move
into the shade even to eat luncheon.
Other diners have a choice of several patios or
the dining room. And only the excellent cuisine can
combat the distraction of an overwhelming pano-
ramic view from each.
Attracting visitors from all over the world, the
Inn is a favorite of both the theatrical and social
circles. Motion picture stars are apt to fly the 85
miles north from Los Angeles to breakfast on the
terrace, play golf, and fly back to report for work.
It's a midway stopover for the strata of society
that treks from Honolulu to New York season after
season.
A typical guest list would make a "name-drop-
per" stutter . . . Margaret Osborne DuPont; Rich-
ard Crooks, Met star, and Mrs. Crooks ; the James
Roosevelts ; Fred Gurley, president of Santa Fe
Railroad, and Mrs. Gurley; Irene Dunne and her
husband. Dr. Francis Griffin ; the Leslie Edward
Hills of Hills Bros. Coffee; Charles Laughton;
Rosalind Russell and her husband, Fred Brisson;
Jack Benny . . . the list is impressive, and endless.
Evenings find the guests divided between card
games in front of the lounge fire, attending the
nightly movie, or congregating in the gay Melon
Bar. intimate cocktail retreat decorated with color-
ful murals in the famous watermelon motif. Ad-
joining the room is a terrace for summer dancing.
Here an informal spirit prevails — it's the nine-
teenth hole for golfers, and the romantic at-
mosphere for honeymooners.
In the midst of this pleasurable living and the
consistently fine weather, visitors to the Inn are
more than likely to cast on eye around the entire
valley and wonder about "staying forever" in the
magic of Ojai.
Handsome movie-star Rohert Stack leaps over
the net at the Ojai Valley Inn tennis court.
Beauteous Loretta Young relaxes
on the luxurious flagstone terrace.
Gene Raymond and his wife Jeanette MacDonald photo-
graphed at Ojai with Robert Sparks, Penny Singleton.
One of California's famed resorts is within easy
driving distance of Los Angeles. 85 miles north
on the scenic coast highway, a few miles inland
over the coastal mountain range. Here, in the
heart of the lovely valley, is the luxurious Ojai
I alley Inn and Country Club.
Residents of the valley are fiercely loyal to
their land, almost to the point of ignoring the
rest of California. As a matter of fact, they some-
times dare to scoff at Switzerland's claim to moun-
tainous beauty. And they can't be too far wrong,
according to world travelers who visit the Ojai
Valley.
The valley is protected by the Pine Mountains
on the north, coast range on the west, Sulphur
Mountain on the south, and the lofty Topa Topa
and Santa Paula peaks on the east. This buttress of
nature effects an ideal climate, perfect for the
main enterprise of agriculture. Oranges, grape-
fruit, avocados, apricots, almonds, pears, and wal-
nuts are raised abundantly.
The valley, torn between devotion to both cul-
ture and sports, has managed a happy blend of
both. This locality maintains six of the nation's
outstanding private schools, ranging from kinder-
garten to twelfth grade. The Community Art Cen-
ter has six branches, offering trained leadership
in everything from literary pursuits to singing.
The Little Theatres attract crowds and talent, as
do the highly successful Ojai Music Festivals.
In the sport line, the spring tennis tournament
draws top-ranking players and is a national cham-
pionship tournament. Many players, such as Ted
Schroeder and Bob Falkenberg got their start here.
The Annual Horse Show enters a thousand con-
testants, and the local Trails Association is the
center of activity that obviously keeps hundreds of
horsemen galloping in all directions most of the
time.
Even if a visitor ignores these civic activities and
simply enjoys the hospitality and luxury of the
Inn, it is a safe assumption that he will return.
It might even be predicted that the sojourn will
have an even more startling effect. A gentleman
was invited to have lunch at the Inn one after-
noon in January. He did. He's still there.
Above, a group oj young
guests at the Inn enjoy
cocktails in the gay Melon
Bar. Right, Al Demaret,
pro and former soloist,
sings for Bob Andrews,
editor Ojai Valley News.
Mr. and Mrs. Herb But-
terfield discuss the view
from the Inn's terrace.
Herb is famous for his
"villainous" radio network
characters in soap operas.
Left to right, E. H. Wade-
witz, publisher ; Mrs.
Lantz; Walter Lantz, of
''Woody Woodpecker"
fame; and Mrs. E. H.
Wadewitz, Wisconsin.
Right, Al Demaret, D. P.
Bartlett, Ventura: Frank
Keenan, Chicago political
figure; Paul Smithson,
Chicago. Below, kids learn
early to handle a club.
George Montgomery and his wife,
Dinah Shore, are ready for a swim.
Barbara Stanwyck is snapped while taking
a sun-bath on a recent vacation at Ojai.
L.
Take To The Sun In Glassies
Ojai Valley Inn is the backdrop for a
fast game of tennis. Jo McNeely puts
fashion in action in F. B. Horgans classic
white tennis dress. About $18. at Bul-
lock's. Pasadena: J. W. Bobinson's, Los
Angeles. Shirlee Tegge cheers winner in
Zolot of California's white pique deep
plunge blouse, tly-front long length
shorts, and bright cotton knit cardigan.
Blouse and shorts, about $9 each; jacket
is about $11. At The J. L. Hudson Co..
Detroit: J. W. Bobinson's. "Fred Perry"
jacket designed for champions, of multi-
color cord. For shorts or slacks.
22
Hit par in a classic golf dress by Graff of
California. Action sleeves, button-up front.
Belt has loops for tees. Sanforized cot-
ton cord. In red, green, gray, blue, and
brown. About $13. The Bedell Store,
Portland. Man wears washable spun
rayon gabardine Hendan sport shirt.
Below. Jo in a striped classic dress . . .
just as appropriate off the green as on.
It's sanforized Dan River '"Dantone," too!
Lawson of California. About $15. At
Meier & Frank. Portland: and Bullock's,
Los Angeles. Photographed on the fair-
way on the beautiful Ojai golf course.
FRANK STIFFLER
Above, suits with a brilliant wild duck motif by
Catalina. Shirlee's pants and bra are in sizes 32-33,
about $15. B. Altman. New York; The Broad-
way, Los Angeles; and Gimbel's. Philadelphia.
24
■^Opposite, figure flattery by Cole of California!
Jo's one-piece cotton print is about $12. At
J. W. Robinson Co., Los Angeles. Virginia's suit
is metallic cotton, about SI 5. Bloomingdale's.
New York ; D. H. Holmes Company. New Orleans.
Above, beach coats by Normandin. definitely worth
a second glance. Emphatic stripes, about $11.
Or for the immaculate look of stark white, about
$10. Both in fine absorbent terry cloth, the
perfect summer cover-ups. At Carson's. Chicago.
25
Nothing equals the eternal satisfaction
of pedal pushers and shorts for coun-
try living, carefree comfort. Jo wears
her "pushers" with vest, bold striped
shirt. Shirlee likes the easy freedom
of shorts with side pleats, a soft jacket
over her striped blouse. In Burlington
fabrics, the series by Joseph Zukin of
California. In sizes 10-18. About $40
for the vest, blouse, jacket, and shorts.
At B. Altman & Co., New York; Wm.
Block Co.. Indianapolis; Haggarty's.
Los Angeles. A summer wardrobe must!
■Wky
-> ii. I;', < ' '
vK
•4
lC^
FRANK STIFFLER
Here in Ojai Valley, Jo feels most
comfortable in her brief boxer coat,
its patch pockets a pretty-practical
touch, jutting collar purely flattering.
Shirlee wears matching bra and cuffed
shorts, both lined and ready to use
as swimsuit, sun-suit, or tennis suit.
Gantner of California. In Dan River
Wrinkl-shed cotton. Sizes 10-18. Suit,
about $9 and coat, about $11. Both
available at Silvervvood's. Los Anajeles.
A provocative pose . . . Shirlee relaxes
on the lawn in striped chambray
rompers, left, designed by M. R.
Fleischman. Easily transformed into an
afternoon dress with epaulets which
button on the shoulders and a skirt
of unpressed pleats. Sizes 10-14, about
$14 at City of Paris, San Francisco.
27
A "trunkful" of denim for summer re-
sorts! Left, Marine blue denim jacket with
zip front. A-l Mfg. Co. Next, sturdy
pedal pushers and windbreaker with "gold
miner" print shirt. By Caldwell, Inc.
Pedal pushers, about $6.50; jacket about
$6; and shift, about $4.50. At Roos
Bros.. San Francisco. Next, A-l's denim
slacks. Right, Koret of California matches
striped chambray corselette. plain skirt.
About $11. The Hecht Co., Washington.
D. C: Mullen & Bluett, Los Angeles.
28
Right, multicolor squares in a four-piece
set by Tabak of California. Trim little
shorts and bra, about $6; button-up skirt
and button-down blouse, about $6 each.
Sizes 10-18. Dan River's wonderful
Wrinkl-shed for hot weather. At Joske's,
San Antonio; Desmond's. Los Angeles.
Below, cool fresh pique with circling
chambray bands, by Lori Dawson. Stole
covers bare shoulders and has hidden
pockets on ends. Yellow, pink, or white
with gray: solid aqua or violet. 10-16.
9-15. About $23. The White House. San
Francisco. Bob sports Maurice Holman
all-wool jacket. Suede yoke, elbow pads.
Hand woven leather buttons. About $31.50.
Birdie-in-the-cage or Casey Jones . . . it's time
for square dance cottons! Virginia's pineapple
cloth dress is by Campus Modes Sportswear.
About $15. May Co., Los Angeles. Shirlee wears
Marjorie Michael dotted swiss. About $40.
Magic Eye, Las Vegas. Bob wears Hollywood
Rogue shirt, in brilliant plaid, tie-waist.
Opposite page: Terrace time with Shirlee in
dotted skirt and off-shoulder blouse. Virginia
wears a chambray blouse with striped skirt.
Double ruffles in back give bustle effect.
Blouses are about $8 each, and skirts are about
$11. Western Fashions. At The Fair, Ft. Worth.
30
he fires of the kilns burn at white
heat, the potter's wheel whirs, and
tons of fine clay are ready for
molding as Southern California
makes its bid to become a na-
tional center of ceramic art.
Scratch your neighbor and you
may find a ceramist! Every known
type of pottery . . from the sim-
plest table and cooking pieces to
the finest artware . . is being
shipped to worldwide markets
with the name of the artist in-
scribed above the words "Califor-
nia Ceramic." Some of the brotherhood migrated
here from Europe during the war years, others began
as backyard hobbyists. Some are firmly grounded in
the art, others literally are feeling their way through
the clay. But all are zealous enthusiasts who give
unlimited hours to watching their kilns and work-
ing at their wheels. Represented in California ce-
ramics is every known type of technique, extremes
of which are exemplified by the delicately modeled
birds of Howard Ball, the bold aboriginals of Wil-
mer James.
Miss listing's "Skat'
BY VIRGINIA TEALE
M
Beautiful Macaw by Howard Ball
prized by the oriental potters, it was termed Hsien
Hung, fresh blood red, and Pao Shih Hung, precious
stone red. No records were left to indicate how the
glaze was made . . one Chinese scribe vaguely re-
ferred to an ingredient which was a "powder made
of precious red stones from the west". The Winston
and the Landaker reds varied somewhat in tone and
composition, but both were true reds without the
orange and purplish casts which always had sneaked
in to plague the potters. And recently several other
ceramists have come forth with red glazes. It looks
as though the old Chinese secret soon will be com-
mon ceramic knowledge.
Winston, whose efforts to perfect the red glaze
involved 131 experiments, finally was able to pro-
duce the color in tones varying from turkey red
to a deep morocco leather shade. A novice in the
field two years ago, his interest in ceramics began
when he chanced to read a book on the potter's art.
One of his recent pieces, a Kuan Yin figurine, 24
inches in height and executed in an exquisite rose-
gray crackle glaze, has brought forth much favorable
comment from connoisseurs. Born in Texas, Winston
spent most of his school years in Europe and studied
architecture in Paris. He was embarking on a career
CERAMIC ART ACHIEVING WORLD-WIDE FAME
Most of the potters are youthful, and most of
their products exhibit the freedom of thought and
the individuality typical to the California Way of
Life. Fortunately for them, the renaissance of such
objects of art is underway . . present day ceramists
no longer are required to turn out exclusively the
pseudo antiques which were used to complement fash-
ionable "period" interiors. Since decor has become
more venturesome, the art potters are getting the op-
portunity to produce their original designs and often
have the satisfaction of seeing a whole room keyed
to one of their ceramic creations.
Two Californians, Steve Winston and H. C. Landa-
ker, lately realized a centuries-old dream of ceramists
. . that of producing the almost fabulous red glaze
which has been an elusive philosopher's stone to the
potter. The art of producing this rich color was de-
veloped in China during the Ming dynasty. Highly
as a motion picture actor when he was sidetracked
to ceramics by a book in the RKO studio library.
A striking contrast to Winston's work are the pro-
ductions of Wilmer James, young Negress, whose
ceramic designs verge on the abstract and aboriginal.
Typical of her work is a vividly stained textured sur-
face and unusual use of trail-glaze. Most of the Wil-
mer ceramics are in shades of magenta, chartreuse,
brown and aquamarine, and are accented with white
crackle trail-glaze. Her bowls, vases and aboriginal
figurines are favorites of decorators for contemporary
interiors, and often supply the keynote for color
plans or decor theme. The one-two-three of the Wil-
mer technique is a sgraffito texturing, bisque firing,
then application of the trail-glaze and a last firing.
Final step is a staining and hand-rubbing process.
Born in Louisiana. Wilmer attended Los Angeles
schools. At the University of Southern California she
32
Steve Winston's "Kuan Yin" is
worthy piece for a collector
Wilmer James is noted for sgraffito-textured
urns, stained and decorated with trail glaze
H. C. Landaker, at right, an avid student of
the oriental, fashioned this Chinese horse
studied ceramics under Glenn Lukens, working chiefly
with utilitarian pieces. Her first experiments with
decorative articles were made in the studio of a Bev-
erly Hills ceramist who recognized her exceptional
talent and urged her to create her own line. She
is now in large scale production in the Los Angeles
studio which she shares with noted ceramist Tony
Hill.
The Audubon of the potter's world is Howard Ball,
whose ceramic birds are so vividly realistic that they
seem about to take wing. A longtime fancier of birds,
Ball painstakingly fashions his clay models according
to the size and color of its living counterpart. He
also pays minute attention to the backgrounds or
mountings for his birds . . providing a typical habitat
for each one.
Howard Ball, born in Colorado, spent his child-
hood in Oregon where he occupied his leisure time
by tramping through the woods and studying birds.
Coming to Los Angeles ten years ago he set up a studio
for portrait sculpture and marionette manufacture,
but kept bird modeling as his hobby. Soon customer
demand for his birds outstripped that for his other
creations, and Ball turned to ceramics as a medium.
His present extensive knowledge of the potter's art
it's expression in beauty is unique
was won by an early trial and error method.
"Actually," says Ball, "I could say I've been a
potter since the age of six . . it was then that my
mother opened her oven one day to find it filled with
gooey river mud. This was my first attempt at ceramic
firing, and it netted me a well-warmed posterior from
my mother's hairbrush!"
The "Bonde" peasant figurines created by Mabel
Wisting are an interesting contribution to California
ceramics. Distinguishing points are the hand-modeled
faces which reveal Mrs. Wisting's academic back-
ground as a sculptor. Her favorite endeavor is char-
acter study in clay with emphasis on this country's
foreign-born citizens. The Swedish and Chinese
figurines are particular appealing, with their perfectly
detailed costumes and characteristic facial structure.
(Continued on page 48)
Stephanie Wormhoudt's skill is artistic per
fection ivith these magnificent incised design
Grant Beach and his camel with the hilarious
hump . . a creation of glaze and terra cotta
Jane Callender shows the Sealyham terrier . .
just one of a kennel of wonderful dogs
glJ
>
Designs Clothes
On these pages are sketches designed by Milo
Anderson for Patricia Neal. now starring in
"The Fountainhead." Below, black crepe tube
skirt worn with dinner jacket of antique gold.
Right, silver threaded white crepe wedding gown
with turtle neck sweater effect over a peg top
skirt. Opposite page, right, cocoa brown linen
suit with white crepe scarf, ostrich accessories.
Left, white peg top skirt with white blouse
dotted with gold and silver circles. Knitted
waistband and cuffs.
fi ,"
I V
;?;
Inspired By Script Or By Life
milo anderson
creates
trend-setting
styles for
warner brothers
stars . . .
simple tailoring
is the keynote
Clothes and color schemes should be selected
according to a woman's geographical and so-
cial environment, just as a wardrobe for a motion
picture must fit the script, says Milo Anderson,
versatile Warner Brothers designer. He feels
that American women would do well to pay
more attention to the clothes they see on the
screen and in American shops, and less to the
trends set by Parisian designers.
At the age of 17, he submitted sketches of his
designs to Sam Goldwyn and was on his way to
the top. His first picture, "The Kid from Spain,"
featured eleven actresses who are now famous,
among them Paulette Goddard and Virginia
Bruce.
Simple tailoring is the keynote seen in all of
his designs. He feels that silk is just as smart in
winter as in spring and that prints are as good
as plain colors for fall. Movies do set trends
on the fashion market, Milo says. He designed
the first culottes seen on the screen for Bette
Davis in "Petrified Forest."
1935 was his banner year because he designed
clothes for five of the ten best shows of the
year. His pictures have included "Life with
Father," "Whiplash," "The Two Mrs. Carrolls,"
and more recently, "Backfire," "My Dream is
Yours," "It's a Great Feeling," "Montana," and
"Fountainhead."
45
BASIS FOR BEAUTY
you can have a
lovely figure
even with a
problem, mist
/
v
w
w
\\
"*=-««-&„
'( l\
<l IV
/; o
u w
'I
i i i
'I U " //
— n w u 1 1
ii ''--^cr^-i/V'
A-D Diaphragm Control
E Control Strap
F Custom-fitted Adjustments
G Contour Control
H Inner Shield for Support
I Wide Back for Comfort
J Tabs for Girdle
The Aphrodite of Cyrene, Lady Hamilton, Rita Hay-
worth, and possibly a few dozen others, are noted for
perfect figure proportions. But we are not concerned in
this article with perfect contours and perfect lines. On
the contrary, we want to talk about the woman with a
figure problem, and specifically, a problem bust.
There are, basically, two types of problem busts . . .
some women are too heavy and some women are too slim.
Some women, of course, have no bustline at all. This is
the Taison d'etre of the so-called "falsie." Now for the
woman with too small or too large a bustline there are
foundation garments which can perform just as much
magic as the falsie in the realm of figure contour. Magic,
on second thought, is too timid a word. We might go so
far as to say that the proper foundation garments can
work miracles.
Last month we talked about the correct fit for women
with small or moderately full bustlines. For the woman
with a very large bustline, we again interviewed an expert
— M. K. de la Vallade of Cordelia of Hollywood, manu-
facturers of surgical, corrective, style brassieres. The con-
trol-lift bra by Cordelia, sketched at left, creates a beautiful
bustline by minimizing size and controlling weight. Over
600 different sizings, all designed for maximum comfort,
are available in sizes ranging from 32 to 56. And if a
woman cannot find the correct fit among the standard
sizes, she can place a special order through her favorite
shop for custom-made garments in a minimum quantity
of three.
(A-D) indicates the reinforced section for diaphragm
control, available in the standard lengths shown or cus-
tom-designed to fit any figure problem. The waist-length
bras have tabs (J) which hook onto the top of the girdle
to hold both garments in the proper position.
The control strap (E) starts at the base of the front of
the bra and goes over the center of the cup to form the
shoulder straps. Cut on the straight of the fabric, it holds
the bust in the proper position and provides for a smoother
line. This tubular strap, which will neither shrink, roll,
nor cut, is %/' to IV2" wide and may be adjusted in back
(F) and sewed permanently in place by a fitter. (G) in-
dicates the center section of the bra. designed to maintain
the correct placement of the bust. As a further means of
support, a shield (H) is built within the cup.
The woman with a plump back should select a bra with
a sufficiently wide back to prevent the unattractive lines
caused by tight binding. The back of the Cordelia bra
(I) is wide and will not cut into the flesh. Women with
a very large back and heavy shoulders may achieve greater
comfort with the Cordelia bra which fastens down the
front.
Besides being highly recommended by doctors — who are
always concerned with such things as proper circulation
and the correct support and control and so on — the Cordelia
bra is highly recommended by women who love beauty and
style.
Thus the problem bustline really isn't a problem after
all. If you don't have a beautiful figure, the proper foun-
dation garments can give you one.
36
CV.
Summer Fancies
Two gay and fragile summer cottons by Lil Alice
left, sheer wallpaper print-on-white, plunging
neckline and directoire waist tied with
contrasting ribbons and gently flared skirt;
right, misty tiers with organdie flashes at neck
and cuffs, belt of double ribbons.
Both in sizes 9-15, each is about
at Daniels & Fisher, Denver; Buffums', Long Beach
Loveman's, Nashville; Emporium. San Francisco;
Miller's, Yakima; Brown Dunkin, Tulsa.
flow Old
Is
Fashion
Vacation is when females,
aged two to too-many-to-mention.
want play clothes for mountain or beach
... or for stay-at-home glamour!
1. Elasticized swimsuit by Cole of
California. 2. Kidlet's diaper suit
of sanforized cotton: Lurrie-Pizer.
3. Polka dots for small fry: 3
Little & Martin. 4. Dotted Swiss for
little miss, Picture Modes. 5. Strapless
yoked sundress in broadcloth. Monterey Modes.
6. Cordspun three-piecers, Mildred's.
7. Buttons 'n bows on pique, Sally 'n Susan.
8. Camisole goes over or under skirt,
Ro-Nel. 9. Gypsy skirt and bodice in
colored denim: Louella Ballerino.
10. Chambray with eyelet touches:
Junior Miss of California. 11. Sailor dress,
Ivan Frederics of California. 12. Polka
dot sheer sundress with sarong drape, bolero:
Agnes Barrett. 13. Casual shirt, striped
skirt. International Sportswear. 14. Plunge-
neck blouse with print applique to match skirt
Western Fashions. 15. Demure or womanly,
draw-string blouse and skirt: Madalyn Miller.
KATHRYN BERGE
Summer Extras
Sport blouses, perfect for the active life.
or just lazy days in the sun. Reading
clockwise from above: action-back blouse in
cotton broadcloth, combat jacket front, patch
pocket: Hendan. Classic blouse by
Graff of California, bucking bronc print, in
contrasting colors, on Fuller Fabrics lambskin
crepe, solid color shorts. Plaid classic,
long pocket on bias, in Pima cotton, with
Irish linen pedal-pushers: F. B. Horgan. Smooth
lines of torso-style blouse to wear
in-or-out. by Royal Crest in Bates
poplin. Sketched by Mary Hews.
The "bit role" of a blouse can ensure
the dramatic success of a costume . . .
above left, flattering neckline,
short sleeves with tiny cuffs, in
Irish handkerchief linen: Joseph Zukin.
Above center, washable Mallinson nylon
blouse, wrap skirt: Deauville Models.
Above right, crisscross of lace inserts
on batiste: Tailor Maid. Left,
Cohama's pure silk shantung, softly
fashioned by Sir James. Bow may
be detached. Below, also with
convertible collar, shirtwaist in
Jerry Rossman foulard: Palmdayl.
INDOOR-OUTDOOR PLAN
WITH EVER-CHANGING VISTAS
OF SEASONAL FLOWERS
AND PANORAMIC VIEW . .
IT'S CALIFORNIA LIVING!
44
Take Inspiration
from an Artist...
Put Color in
Your Home
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
ERNEST E. RESHOVSKY
Everyone can't be an artist, but ev-
eryone can appreciate the subtle com-
binations of color and line that have
made the home of Harvey Thompson
so extremely beautiful.
Of modern contemporary design, this
house on a knoll in the San Raphael hills
is arranged so that it takes advantage of
a fabulous ocean-city view toward the
south . . . and the artistic planning of
both the gardens and the interior ar-
rangement of rooms creates a maximum
of charm.
The floor plan is such that service
rooms are at the entry-way of the house,
and the view-full living room looks out
upon garden and the surpassing view.
stands and blond mahogany tables with
black tops hold picturesque mahogany
lamps with beige shades, or rare Chinese
art objects.
In fact, these bits of statuary, stone
and polychrome figures, carry out (or in-
spire) the mood of rich simplicity in
the Thompson home. Blue glass and
glazed enamel pieces are color highlights.
Conforming to the rich understatement
of this room are the natural color balloon
cloth drapes, easily drawn for complete
privacy.
The study is partially separated from
the living room by a decorative sand-
blasted panel, and here rich shades of
fuchsia make a warm and inviting vista.
Down a winding drive, guests enter
through a tropical garden and patio. A
fluted glass door which lets in light but
obscures vision opens into the large en-
trance hall; to left are sleeping quarters
and to right the kitchen.
The living room and den are partially
paneled in combed plywood that retains
its natural wood color. Opposite the
glassed section, the north wall is plaster
with a mat finish in gray-blue tones.
Subtle color makes a paradise out of
this great room, which houses art treas-
ures and is in itself an artistic triumph.
A ten-foot couch provides a rich accent
with its textured gold material; teakwood
Wall couches mean this "den" also may be
used for a guest room.
Sleeping quarters take the same simple,
restful basic colors with an occasional
highlighting. The master bedroom com-
bines the natural combed plywood walls
with dark gray-green mat finish on plas-
ter, lighter green drapes, lipstick red rug.
Second bedroom is in cocoa-brown and
white with emerald green color accents.
Throughout the house, you are con-
scious of the pleasing harmony of color,
the clean uncluttered lines of architecture
. . . and the wide glass expanse that makes
this house at one with its beautiful setting.
45
"This is every cook's opinion; no savory dish without an
onion." is an old saw but it's certainly true of contemporary
Californian cooks. Whether it is Chinese food or Mexican,
Portuguese or Russian. French or just plain American, many
of California's most famous dishes depend on some member
of the onion family for their allure. It may be the big sweet
red onion or the hotter white one; it may be the scallion
or "green onion" as we call them here, or the mild leek. It
may be the lusty garlic or the delicate shallot or the infant
chive, but whichever it is it may be depended upon to do its
flavoring best.
In summer the garlic comes into its own. It seasons the
dressing for salads and the butter for French bread. It per-
fumes charcoal grilled steaks and barbecued spareribs and
its popularity as a sauce for spaghetti is sweeping the coun-
try. (Remember? Heat crushed cloves of garlic with olive
oil, add melted butter and lots of minced parsley and toss
your spaghetti in it until it is well coated. And pass the grated
Parmesan!) Hardier souls even grind it to a nothingness with
salt and use it in their French dressing or on their hamburgs
or whatever else they dare. Don't confuse this with garlic
salt — they really have no resemblance. It is my contention
that there is no substitute for fresh garlic — when it is made
into salt, or extract, or powder, it simply does not keep the
same wonderful fragrance.
The leek is the "national flower" of Wales, but nonethe-
less this version of a rabbit, which is Welsh, depends on garlic
for its sensation.
CALIFORNIA
COOKS
BY HELEN EVANS BROWN
California Cooks Know Their Onions!
GARLIC WELSH RABBIT
Peel cloves of garlic until you have a cupful then cook
them gently in a quarter of a cup of butter, turning them so
that they will brown evenly on all sides. Now remove them
carefully and in the pan melt a pound of rich cheddar cheese
that has been cut in pieces. Do this slowly and stir constantly.
As the cheese melts add a cup of beer very gradually. Season
with a little salt and a speck of cayenne. Add the browned
garlic and serve at once, on toasted English muffins. This is
a good dish to make in a chafing dish.
Another dish that is strong with garlic, but superb, is a sort
of hamburg-hot dog, one that is perfect for the Californian
barbecue. It is Roumanian in origin and is called Kamatzlack.
or
HAMBURG HOT-DOG
Crush six cloves of garlic with two teaspoons of salt until
the garlic disappears. Do this with a mortar and pestle, or
use a wooden spoon and a heavy bowl. Mix with two pounds
of hamburg and two eggs and season with a little fresh pepper.
Cover and put in the refrigerator for several hours to blend.
Have long skewers greased (the ideal ones would be quarter
inch square steel rods, but any long metal rod will do) and
form the meat mixture around the rods in the shape of frank-
furters. Grill over charcoal and serve in hot dog buns that
have been spread with mustard flavored butter. Good!
The Chinese have a way with garlic as they do with every-
thing thev cook ... a way that is unequalled.
GARLIC SHRIMPS, CHINESE STYLE
Crush three cloves of garlic and heat in a quarter of a cup
of vegetable oil for four minutes. Remove garlic and add
a pound of large raw shrimps that have been peeled and
cleaned. Toss in the hot oil until they become pink, then add
a tablespoon of grated fresh ginger (or preserved ginger, in
which case omit the sugar), a quarter of a cup of soy sauce
and a cup and a half of chicken stock. Cover and cook for two
minute* then season with a half teaspoon of monosodium
glutamate (Chinese seasoning powder) and a teaspoon of sugar.
Thicken with a tablespoon of cornstarch that has been mixed
with a little cold water. Serve this with rice and with Chinese
peas, or asparagus.
The leek, all but forgotten until Vichysoisse took the epi-
curean world by storm, is again available at the corner vege-
table stand. Andre Simon says of it: "A native of Europe
and one of the most useful of vegetables. It is the most dis-
creet member of the large onion family but it is a mistake
to imagine that because it has not the onion's assertiveness it
lacks flavor." Plain boiled leeks, served with melted butter.
are delicious with pork or veal or mutton, and braised leeks
are positively perfect with duck or goose or chicken. They
mav be creamed, too. or served with cheese sauce, or chilled
and dressed with a vinaigrette — anyway they are far too deli-
cious to miss!
BRAISED LEEKS
Split six leeks lengthwise and cut off most of the green
part, scraping the roots. Wash very thoroughly then parboil
for fifteen minutes or until partially tender. Drain and cook
until browned and glazed in a cup of rich stock and a quarter
of a cup of butter. Pour the reduced sauce over them be-
fore serving at your very fanciest dinner party.
An old ballad gave the following advice to admirers of
the onion tribe:
"If leeks you like, but do their smell dis-leek.
Eat onyons, and you will not smell the leek:
If you of onyons would the smell expell.
Eat garlicke. that shall drown the oynon's smell."
Thomas Murrey, in his charming little 19th Century book
called "Salads and Sauces," has another remedy to use after
the eating of his
ONION SALAD
"The large Spanish onions make a very nice salad. If the
flavor requires to be reduced soak them in two or three wa-
ters; put them in a salad bowl with a plain dressing, add a
tablespoon of chopped parsley, and serve with toasted crack-
ers." Adds Mr. Murrey, "During the rest of the day make
it convenient to keep away from the ladies unless they also
have partaken of the salad." My version of this salad is but
very little different: Slice the onions very thin and soak in
ice water for three hours. Drain and sauce with French dress-
ing and serve on a deep bed of parsley, accompanied by thin
slices of buttered homemade bread.
Another way with onions in a salad is with cucumbers: I
call it "cucumbers La Canada" but as you'll need homemade
mayonnaise for it I'll give you that recipe first. It is so easy
to make and so much better and cheaper than the store va-
riety it is silly not to have it always.
MAYONNAISE
Break two egg yolks into a beater bowl and beat in a cup
of salad oil (corn, or cottonseed, or sesameseed oil). At the
beginning add the oil slowly, a drop or so at a time, but as
the mixture begins to thicken it can be added much more
quickly. (If you don't have an electric beater use a Dover or
a wire whip). When the full cup of oil has been used add
three tablespoons of lemon juice, a teaspoon of salt and a
speck of cayenne, then add another quarter of a cup of the
oil, still beating. Just before finishing beat in a tablespoon
of boiling water — this to keep the mayonnaise from separating.
CUCUMBERS LA CANADA
Slice three cucumbers as thin as possible, peeling them
or not as you prefer. Arrange a layer of the cucumbers on a
dish, sprinkle them with salt, top them with a layer of sweet
onions that have been sliced even thinner than the cucum-
bers, spread with a layer of mayonnaise and continue on, layer
by layer, until the cucumbers have been used. (Two large
onions should be enough.) Set to chill for several hours: the
cucumbers will wilt and their flavor will blend with the onions
in a marvelous way. Sprinkle the top with chopped parsley or
with caraway seeds before serving as an accompaniment to
broiled fish.
I really doubt that the French, even in California, go in
for French fried onions but they are such a popular way with
onions that I can't overlook them. Serve them with steak, with
broiled liver, with hamburg. or just as is. with cocktails.
FRENCH FRIED ONIO S
Use the sweet Spanish onion. Peel tnem and cut in slices
a quarter of an inch thick and separate into rings. Soak in
milk to cover for an hour, drain, dry, and shake them in a
paper bag that contains a mixture of one part corn meal to
two parts of flour, with salt and pepp t to taste. Fry the
onion rings in deep fat at 370 degrees, drain on paper and
sprinkle with salt.
The Russians in California do a wonderful thing with ham-
burg. onions and sour cream. Kotlety, they call them, hut
I have dubbed this version
HAMBURG BARANOF
Mix two pounds of hamburg with a cup of bread crumbs
which have been soaked in milk, a teaspoon and a half of salt
and some fresh ground pepper and two eggs. Let stand for
an hour or so in the refrigerator then form into flat oval
patties. Brown on both sides in bacon fat or butter then re-
move to a hot dish and in the same pan fry three large onions
that have been sliced thin. When the onions are wilted and
just beginning to color, add a cup of sour cream and two ta-
blespoons of water. Return the "cutlets" to the pan, cover
and cook very slowly for five minutes. Now add another cup
of sour cream and salt to taste. Heat and serve with boiled
new potatoes which have been tossed in butter and sprinkled
with chopped chives or dill.
All California takes to the patio in the summer time and
dining al fresco is an everynight affair. Steaks, because
of their cost, are saved for special occasions, but hamburg,
fish, spareribs. liver, in fact anything that can be grilled, is
cooked over charcoal. In this recipe for lamb chops the less
expensive shoulder chops may be used.
BARBECUED LAMB CHOPS WITH ROAST ONIONS
Have the chops cut rather thick and marinate them in a
mixture of a quarter cup of oil and a quarter cup of soy
sauce for several hours, turning them occasionally. While they
are marinating, clean medium sized onions and scrape off
the roots but do not peel. Wrap each onion in aluminum
foil, twisting it tightly at the top. About an hour before eating
time bury the onions in the hot coals of your barbecue or
brazier. Broil the Iamb chops over the charcoal until almost
charred on the outside but still juicy within. Serve them
with the onions, still in their silvery wrappings. The onions
are unwrapped and eaten with big hunks of butter and plenty
of salt and fresh ground pepper. Pumpernickel bread is just
right with this meal, as is beer. For a salad, tomatoes stuffed
with cottage cheese, and for dessert, apple turnovers.
Often when a meal is served on the patio it is partially
cooked in the kitchen. Here are three casserole dishes, all
of onions, that are particularly good when served with grilled
meat.
ONION PIE
Slice large onions rather thick and parboil them in salted
water for about three minutes. Drain and arrange in layers
in a pastry shell with plenty of butter, salt and fresh ground
pepper. Pour on two cups of sour cream (for a nine-inch
pie), cover with a crust of pastry and bake in a quick oven
until the pie is a gorgeous brown.
ONION CASSEROLE
Peel and slice large sweet onions and arrange in a casserole
sprinkling each layer with salt and pepper and, if you wish,
a little sage or thyme. Cover with thick cream and bake until
the onions are just tender and the top brown.
ONION AND ALMOND CASSEROLE
Parboil a pound of baby onions as usual. Put them in a
casserole and cover with a rich sauce that is made by adding
a cup of cream to a cup of the liquid in which the onions
were cooked, and thickening with four tablespoons of flour
that has been cooked with four tablespoons of butter for two
minutes. Season with Beau Monde Seasoning Salt and add a
half cup of toasted slivered almonds to the sauce. Bake in the
oven until the onions are tender.
"Onions will make ev'n Heirs or Widows weep," says an
ancient cook book, and many a cook, no matter what remedy
she tries, agrees; she cries her eyes out when she peels her
onions. But what's a tear or two when it comes to such good
cooking?
For your copy of "California Cooks" send $1.00 to THE CALI FORNIAN, 1020 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California.
47
DON'T BUY THIS BAMBOO BAG
because you'll be stopped by perfect
strangers who'll ask where they can buy
one. They'll admire the pleasing natural
bamboo color (spiced with fuchsia and
leaf green) that blends with any outfit.
They'll note the fine workmanship. They'll
completely overstep bounds of good taste
and ask the price. You'll have to tell
them it is only $7.74 (taxes and postage
included). No C.O.D.'s Please.
BOX 36
HOUSE
HERMOSA BEACH, CALIF.
Wanted
BROKEN
JEWELRY
All kinds. Highest
cash prices for jew-
elry, rings, spectacles, gold teeth,
diamonds, broken and usable
watches, sterling, etc. Prompt re-
mittances. Satisfaction guaranteed.
WRITE FOR FREE
SHIPPING CONTAINER
LOWE'S Dept.a
Holland Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
NU D'ETE by PAMELA GAY
Black or White Rayon Jersey, <t ^^O^
daringly cut to be worn only *^ y '^
low for a sun-clad summer. *
Send all measurements. Include check with
order. Sorry, no C.O.D. accepted. We pre-
pay all shipments.
PAMELA GAY
Box 23C Melrose 76, Massachusetts
48
CALIFORNIA CERAMICS ACHIEVE FAME
(Continued from page 33)
The natural skin tones of the Bonde
pieces are obtained by special treat-
ment of the terra cotta clay. The near
perfection of the costume lines is due
to the artist's method of modeling first
a nude figure and then "clothing" it.
Another "backyard potter" now en-
gaged in full scale operation is
Stephanie Wormhoudt, whose studio is
located in southwest Los Angeles.
Hand-incised floral motifs and soft
rich color glazes set the keynote for
Stephanie's work . . . her proficiency
in intricate detail work is credited to
her onetime occupation as a designer
and manufacturer of fine jewelry. One
of her most popular creations is the
"Frosted Chocolate" line of functional
pieces using an intaglio white orchard
and bamboo design on a background
of cocoa brown. Another attractive
series is executed in avocado green
decorated with a white intaglio floral.
Before being bisque fired, the Steph-
anie ceramics are sprayed with color
and the incising is done. The second
firing takes place after the pieces have
been coated inside and out with water-
proof glaze.
A Floridan, Stephanie attended
schools in Los Angeles, completing her
education at University of Southern
California where she studied ceramics
under Glenn Lukens. Stephanie's en-
tire family . . mother, father, husband
and Siamese cat, Roger, have become
amateur ceramists, devoting most of
their spare time to activities in the
studio.
The ceramic art objects of H. C.
Landaker are regarded by many critics
as being among the most extraordinary
California products. His work projects
his intensive study of the centuries-
old methods of oriental potters . . the
designs are unique, often bizzare, and
his method of glazing is beautifully
unorthodox. He experiments constantly
and has perfected counterparts of some
of the most abstruse ancient glazes . .
the skim-milk crackle (Ko Yo) glaze
and the almost inimitable wide crackle
Kwan Yo glaze. The incorporation of
these with his designs has resulted in
pieces which are considered collector's
items.
Landaker only lately turned to
ceramics from his previous career as
a painter in oils. His first kiln was
a homemade contrivance which he
constructed from junkyard parts. But
his present well-equipped studio in
Coldwater Canyon is hard-pressed to
fill the current demand for his work.
The well-known ceramic dogs by
Jane Callender are produced in Jane's
Los Angeles studio which she likes to
call the "Callender Kennels." The clay
canines are remarkable chiefly for their
unusual texture, which in its raw state
consists of threadlike pieces of clay.
The hand application of this "fur" is
varied according to the breed of dog
represented . . a feathery type being
used for the spaniels and setters, and
a woolly type for the poodles.
Born in New York, Jane began her
artistic career as a painter in oils. She
first used clay as a medium while she
was instructing a children's art class.
Ceramic art objects with a whimsical
air are created by Grant Beach in his
Los Angeles studio. A large part of his
line is comprised of animal carica-
tures done in gay color combinations
and beautiful glazes. There is a stylized
walrus, for example, with blue whis-
kers and an air of ludicrous pompos-
ity; another interesting piece is a
camel with a fantastic hump resem-
bling a mound of pistachio ice cream.
Beach is a native Californian and,
similar to many of his fellow ceramists,
originally intended to pursue a different
career. He took a degree in sociology
at the University of California at Los
Angeles and practiced this profession
for several years. His interest in clay
work came about as the result of at-
tending an evening class in ceramics,
with a view to making a hobby of pot-
tery making.
In addition to producing his figurines
for commercial markets. Beach cur-
rently is conducting several classes at
his studio. One of the groups is com-
prised of Mexican children . . Beach
is interested in a revival of Mexican
art and culture, and his ideas have met
with enthusiastic response among the
teachers and students in the "Little
Mexico" district of Los Angeles.
CLEAN SILVER
NO RUBBING...
mj$ TOUCH 0
Touch MAGIC WAND
TOUCH-O to silver in cold
water, and see tarnish go! No
messy polish; no chemicals. So easy,
clean, quick! SAFE — proved
absolutely harmless to finest sterling
or plate by tests of U. S. Gov't, and
leading laboratories. Thrifty; lasts
for years. Thousands of thrilled
users. TRY TOUCH-O AT
OUR RISK — see how science
has simplified silver cleaning.
Order now, $1.50, postage paid.
MONEY BACK IF NOT
DELIGHTED. For gifts, too. <
SILVERSMITHS, 528
White Bldg., Buffalo 2, N. Y.
A DIRECT HIT
with your card plaving friends and rela-
tions— not to mention yourself, is this ex-
cellent set of 100 interlocking mono-
grammed plastic poker chips, in a com-
bination of 50 white, 25 red, and 25 blue.
Specify monogram, one name, or coin
denomination. Set of 100 — $3.95 postpaid.
. . . and is there anyone who won't hug
you for a set of wonderful long wearing
plastic Kem playing cards? (We've used
ours constantly for 3 years and they're like
new). They are washable and guaranteed
for at least 600 rubbers of bridge. In
two beautiful new patterns:
Two decks in a plastic box.
Cameo design ST. OO double deck
Carnation (Deluxe) $7.50 double deck
Pinochle (not shown) S7.00 double deck
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s
CARLA JILL STUDIOS
' 'headquarters of the unusual"
DEPT. C. NORTHPORT, NEW YORK
Send for Free Catalog
LOOK YOONGE
as You Grow Oldt
Call
JUNE
DrnidQjltu/u
TBMJt MAW KGUAMOt
A PROVEN SCIENTIFIC
FACIAL TREATMENT
AND
PLEASANT NON-SURGICAL
REJUVENATION and FACE LIFT
(1) Removes blackheads, white heads, ar
tissue debris.
(2) CORRECTS enlarged, clogged pores, di
skin, oily skin, sallowness, and blerr
ishes.
(3) CLEARS the skin of acne and pimple
(4) SMOOTHES wrinkles, and erases fact'
lines.
(5) TIGHTENS sagging cheeks and doubl
chins.
(6) INCREASES circulation and tissue nutr
tion.
(7) VITALIZES nerve, gland, muscle
skin structure.
(8) RESTORES natural, lovely skin.
Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest
you:
Al ham bra ATlantlc 4-955
Belmont Shore 203 Glendora Ave
Berkeley LAnd 6-371 1
3173 College Ave
Fresno 3097 Tulare Ave
Hollywood GRanite 2971! [Oflderfl
Glendale 1123 N. Brand Blvd'
Long Beach 742 Pine Ave'
Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd1
900 S. Norton Ave
Modesto 322 Burney St
North Hollywood 12131 Riverside Dr
Oakland 1225 Broadway
Pasadena 258 S. Las Robles Ave
Pomona 200 E. Center St:
San Francisco YUkon 6-6325
San Jose Suite 459, Porter Bldg,
San Mateo 318 B. Stree>
Santa Ana 405 Vj N. Broadway
Santa Monica 271 9-E Santa Monica Blvd,<'
11 van t
A !"f
can do
itkes or
: r. •
limfoi
often
He (
ill. i!w|
ion ist
iniham
>r town
ore -
idles
ilk i
arte.
ik
i
A:
hg lil
ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI
The gentle qualities of this historical
figure endear him to garden and bird
lovers. This 13' tall ceramic figurine
is decorative in a garden shrine, with
flower arrangements, or as an acces-
sory to interiors.
All white, $10; Chartreuse gown and
terra cotta features, $1 1 ; Opaque white
over terra cotta gown with terra cotta fea-
tures, $1 1 . Prepaid, insured. (Sorry, no
C.O.D.'s)
FAIRY FLAMES CRAFT STUDIO
1104 South Monterey St., Alhambra, Calif.
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
I What To Wear
hi California
IN JUNE
In California. June is the month
for beaches, tennis courts, hotel
pools, golf courses, race tracks,
bridle trails . . . plus all the glam-
our of night spots, out-of-this-
world restaurants, theatres, and
all sorts of city-slick fun.
Of course your clothes depend
upon your vacation plans, hut for
June in California we'd suggest
a. suit in lightweight wool, gabar-
dine, or any travel-wise fabric. A
few tailored and frothy blouses
will vary the mood wherever you
go. A topcoat in a conservative
cut can do double-duty over sport
clothes or your more frilly eve-
ning dresses. And of course a
shortie" is always useful and
nice spice in any wardrobe. But
whatever you choose, be sure it's
warm, for California's June nights
are often surprisingly cold.
The classic spectator sports
*dress is a must in California, for
golf, shopping, or informal after-
noon gatherings. A suit-dress in
gingham or small checks is nice
for town-wear with white cotton
gloves and a small cloche. A
backless or midriff sundress is
wonderful for hot afternoons, or
with a stole, for evening patio
parties.
Bring lots of playclothes, two
or three swimsuits and a variety
of shorts and blouses or match-
ing bra-tops. Bring slacks or
pedal pushers for sailing and if
you like to ride, bring along a
pair of blue jeans and a plaid
shirt.
"The River Flats"
SERIGRAPHS
by George A. Beyer
Produced and hand-signed by the Artist in
his studio.
Cook Book
Reviews:
BY HELEN EVANS BROWN
CALIFORNIA'S BEST
WINES By Robert Lawrence Bal-
zer. Ward Ritchie Press. Robert
Lawrence Balzer has done much
for the fine wines of California.
For many years he has insisted
that they were worthy of world
recognition — not as imitations of
European wines, but as wines of
a new region, of a region ideally
suited to the growing of the
grape, of California! He was one
of the first to recognize the im-
portance of designating the wines
by varietal or regional names, a
practice that is becoming more
and more prevalent, and to en-
courage the vintners who did so.
Now he has gone even further:
he picks California's best wines!
Not necessarily all of them, as he
himself states, but the wines of
thirteen wineries that he himself
has discovered to be tops. In the
book Mr. Balzer takes us on a
tour of these vineyards and
wineries. We learn their history,
meet their owners, taste their
wares. With him we compare the
wines of the various regions he
visits and drool over the recipes
he acquires en route. Bob Balzer
knows his wines . . . that I know
because he has shared much of
his knowledge with me. He knows,
too, that snobbery and wine
don't go together — that a wine
can be enjoyed when drunk from
a glass that once housed jelly or
cheese, and that crystal decanters.
wine cradles and elaborate silver
wine coasters are not a necessary
part of wining and dining. The
book itself is Californian from
cover to dust-wrapper. Designed
by Ward Ritchie, it has charming
chapter headings by Cass Duchow
— a beautiful book in every
sense. Anyone who is proud of
California should take pride in
its wines and that should not be
difficult if we learn about them
from Robert Balzer.
California
In Books
Mounted and matted
in gray cloth ready
for framing
20x2-1 — $12.50
Framed in 1-inch re-
ceding gray toned
molding.
(Outside size.)
22x26— $22.50
Express prepaid.
No C.O.D.'s
"Sandra"
Send check or money order to —
BEYER
726 South 10th St., Minneapolis 4, Minn.
by hazel alien pulling
Two books of interest depict diver-
gent views of California's gold rush
era. One, Sea Routes to ihe Gold
Fields by Oscar Lewis (Knopf. 290p.
S4.00), reflects the grimness of the sea
journey whose goal lay in California;
the other, The 49ers by Evelyn Wells
and Harry C. Peterson (Doubleday.
273p. S3.00), is a Actionized presenta-
tion of the passion and humor that
sustained those who ventured forth for
gold. There is need for both types
of study if one is to have a rounded
view of the period from which modern
California has grown.
Sea Routes to the Gold Fields pro-
vides in readable compass excerpts
from numerous journals kept by those
who from 1849 to 1852 braved the
storm and shipwreck and the dangers
of the Panama Crossing to reach the
fabled land. Sailing vessels, often un-
seaworthy, clipper ships that proceeded
at a faster but not always safer pace,
and, later, steamships, provided long
days in which the observant traveler
could record his impressions and his
terrors of the trip. From these accounts,
Lewis, San Francisco author long
steeped in Gold Rush lore, has woven
an interesting, authoritative account
that complements the many readable
records of overland trips to the Pacific
and rounds out the story of America's
great trek westward.
The 49ers, also by San Franciscans
who have given us other works on
California, is an anecdotal study of the
psychology of individual and typical
members of the Gold Rush band. These
stories, based on actual experience re-
actions but brushed by the pen of the
storyteller, perhaps more effectively
than the original record capture and
highlight the slim thread of personal-
ity that gave the California Gold Rush
its unique tone.
A book of different hue is James
D. McClure's California Landmarks
(Stanford. 149p. $3.00). This book is
a pictorial guide to Southern Califor-
nia, the mid-coastal region, and Mother
Lode country of the Sierra foothills.
Map and road drawings carefully mark
out an itinerary for the traveler from
San Diego to Drake's Bay and eastward
to the mountains. Historical sketches
underline the story that is told in pic-
tures of California's early mission era,
her industrial development, and her
modern homes and public buildings.
Among the scenes of beauty and of his-
tory are those of partially restored mis-
sion buildings, Jack London's unfinish-
ed home overlooking the Valley of the
Moon, and Hangman's tree, each one
of which plays some small part in the
annals of California. A glossary of
names of places and events adds to the
value of the book.
New! NU-FAB FABRIC PAINT
REJUVENATES FABRICS ransins from lamp
shades and upholstered ehairs to awnings and
convertible Auto Tops
WATERPROOFS-Also retards Are, dry rot.
mildew and repels moths. Seals small holes
DRIES IN THIRTY MINTJTES-May be washed
EASY TO APPLY'-By brush or spray
REMAINS FLEXIBLE-LLke rubber or plastic
AVAILABLE IN 13 COLORS
AND BLACK AND WHITE
Write for FREE BOOKLET
PRICE S2.95 PER QT. (I QT. COVERS 60 TO 90 SQ. FEET)
ALLEN PLASTICS CORP.
1015 E. 173RD STREET
NEW YORK 60. N. Y.
ORDER CiRECT FROM
CALIFORNIA!
Utfts in the
\jalifornia manner
MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative
touch for your kitchen . . . and useful, too. Four
plastic measuring spoons, that fit in a floral arrange-
ment into this bright ceramic flower pot. Gadgets like
this moke housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50, postpaid.
SMOKING SET: This exotic Chinese slipper is both a
cigarette container and an ash tray. In brilliant tur-
quoise ceramic, with gold ornamentation. Lovely home
accessory, novel and useful. $5.00, postpaid.
TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, painted
plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped flat,
easily assembled. $4.50 (add 25c for postage).
No C.O.D. — p/ease. Send check or money order. (Resi-
dents of California, p/ease add 21/2°/o sales fax.)
Send for illustrated catalog
of other delightful California
gift items.
TBS CORRAL SEOF
IOX 918 j RANCHO SANTA FE • CALIFORNIA
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
49
CALIFORNIA'S
OWN
COOK n
BOOK
2
i
f you like to eat . . and who
doesn't . . you'll revel in Helen
Evans Brown's special and famous
recipes in
CALIFORNIA COOKS
Write for Your Copy Today!
• More than 100 unusual Cali-
fornia recipes are consolidated on
40 beautifully printed pages . .
appetizing dishes that make cook-
ing a real pleasure . . a big event
for you! Try Helen Brown's
Brentwood Orange Pancakes, her
piping hot Onion Bread, Ham-
burgers En Brochette, Peas Pais-
ano, Green Goddess Dressing.
• Cooking is easy . . and fun . .
when you have such wonderful
recipes! Try them for your finest
party . . serve them for your own
family's taste treat.
• CALIFORNIA COOKS is a
treasure to keep in your kitchen
. . it suggests the proper menu,
the exciting dish . . at just the
right time. It's i practical and
appreciated gift.
• A Two-Dollar Value in good
eating for only $1.00!
Write for Your Copy Today!
Simply fill in the coupon and mail with
$1.00 for each copy, postage paid by us,
to
tAUFORNIAN
1020 SOUTH MAIN STREET
LOS ANGELES 15, CALIFORNIA
To: The
Street, L
Please
FORNIA
Address
Californian,
os Angeles
nail my cc
COOKS to
1020 S. Main
15, California,
pies of CALI-
City
Zone
Enclosec
State..
is payment
for
□
opies.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Your Summer in California
SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR
June 24- July 4: On fairgrounds ad-
adjoining the Del Mar Race Track are
brilliant displays of flowers, avocados,
and oranges. Also featured are a
World Championship Rodeo, a Na-
tional Horse Show, and harness racing.
ELSINORE FROLIC DAYS
July 2-4: Townspeople wear western
clothing at a celebration including con-
tests for old-time fidlers, harmonica
players, beards. A fireworks display
climaxes the final day.
SEMANA NAUTICA
July 2-4: Nautical Week in the old
mission town of Santa Barbara in-
cludes sailing, fishing, speed boat
racing, swimming races, water skiing,
and aquaplaning, plus the land sports
of golf, archery, bicycle racing. High-
light of the week is a parade of bril-
liantly lighted vessels.
A MESSAGE TO OUR SUBSCRIBERS
First presentation of exciting fall
fashions will be brought you in
the August issue of The Califor-
nian, which will reach you in mid-
July with an important style an-
alysis aptly described as Dollars
and Good Sense. Watch for timely
mid-seasoning hints, and the sound
buying advice that will help you
dress to a plan of beauty! There
will be no July issue, but each sub-
scriber will receive twelve copies
... an extra magazine will come
to you after the normal expiration
date of your subscription. So now,
we're off on a vacation . . . Cali-
fornia-type!
BIG BEAR LAKE
CALIFORNIA'S ALL-YEAR PLAYGRUOND
Home of Beautiful
SHANGRI-LA
VILLAGE
Deluxe Housekeeping Cottages to serve
all possible groups! G.E. Refrigerator,
Modern Stove, Fireplace, Floor Furnace,
Linens, Silverware, Rock woo I Insulation I
Rates from $8 Daily for 2
Write for Free Folder! Beautifully Illus-
trated. P. O. Box 83 Big Bear Lake, Calif.
GERALD and MARION LIBERTY
— Owners, Mgrs.
Louise Salinger
Schools of Dress Designing
SAN FRANCISCO & PITTSBURGH
Pattern Destining. Pattern Drafting.
Millinery, Tailoring. Sketching.
^fodellng. Day and EwUos Cla*«*.
Catalogue B.
Maiden La. &
Kearny St.
San Francisco.
Calif.
Do. 26059
wood & Oliver
Ave.
Pittsburgh.
Pa.
Atlantic 3863
iiy AFPOumnfKT
PEBXUMER5 TO HJrL KINO 0EOI10B VI
J. 4 E. ATKINSON LTD.
OLOGNES with the traditional
English bouquet, created exquisitely
by Atkinsons of Bond Street,
can now be bought at the finer shops.
GOLD MEDAL
EAV DE COLOGNE
ATKINSONS
24 OlD BOND STREET, tONDON, ENGLAND
IMPORTED IT
PAUL K. RANDALL
nt MADISON AVI.. NEW YORK 17, H. T.
. . . that put life and laughs into any party. For
gay entertaining and good drinking, serve the
next round in these unique, singularly -shaped,
22k gold-rimmed highball glasses.
SET OF
' $750
postpaid
Write for Free illustrated Folder. Dept. C
BIG BEAR LAKE
San Bernardino Mts., Calif.
UlaQomfo
"On the Lake at Big Bear Lake"
— FOR RESERVATIONS —
See your favorite travel agent or write to
P. O. Box 24, Big Bear Lake — Owned and
Operated by Harry and Adelia Becker,
50
THE CALIFORNIAN, June, 1949
F-M^ ...
>■•■'■■ M
TWO DISTINGUISHED WATCHES
yO/ld
w^->
VMS'
The World's Most Honored Watch
Longines is the only watch ever to have won
10 world's fair grand prizes and 28 gold
medal awards. In observatory accuracy
trials, Longines has won countless prizes, bul-
letins, and citations. Longines watches hold
the present records for the most accurate
wrist watches ever tested at Geneva, Neu-
chatel, and Kew-Teddington Observatories.
In gold filled, $71.50; in 14K gold, from $95.
Companion to the Honored Longines
A hundred and one superiorities of construc-
tion and. finish are inbuilt into Wittnauer
watches by Longines-Wittnauer, since 1866,
maker of watches of the highest character.
The Wittnauer watches at your jewelers are
outstanding for beauty, accuracy, and long
life ... in their price range, they offer you the
maximum quality and value. In gold filled,
from $39.75; in 14K gold, $59.50 & $71.50.
Longines
Symphonette
CBS Network
Sundays 2 P.M
Eastern Time
Ms^
H
jftuwnwii if"-, |
Wittnauer
Choraliers
CBS Network
Sundays 5 P.M.
Eastern Time
Longines #1001
I Diamond Set $250
Longines Pres. Washington Longines Orion Longines Pres. Jefferson Wittnauer Claudia Wittnauer Festival E Wittnauer Golden Princess D Wittnauer Burt
14KGold$150 14KGold$100 14KGold$115 Gold Filled $39.75 Gold Filled $49.75 14K Gold $59.50 1 4K Gold $71.50 1
PRODUCT OF THE
WATCH COMPANY
MAKER OF WATCHES OF THE HIGHEST
out
2 9 1949
Bates bold, brilliant woven plaid, a beauty in black and white... all-combed, Sanforized
...its extra width allowing, without extravagance, a spectacular sweep of skirt in the
dresses you sew for summer evenings. Bates Fabrics, Inc., 80 Worth Street, New York 13
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11