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California State Library 


Accession No.. 

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Digitized by the Internet Archive 

in 2011 with funding from 

California State Library Califa/LSTA Grant 




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AUGUST 1948 

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we're campus bound 

. . in the most Parisian suit this 

side of the Atlantic . . .with a short 

ittle jacket... a long pointed 

collar. In gray or brown Dan 

Worn by Betty Stauffer, U. C. L. A. Junior 


River rayon stripes. 9 to 15. 15.95 

Campus Shop 


THE CAN FORNI AN, August, 1948 

campus leaders wear 


Our trademark shown below is registered in the 
United States Patent Office. We have licensed GAN- 
in connection with handbags manufactured by them 
from our leather and PHIL SOCKETT MANUFACTUR- 
ING COMPANY to use it on or in connection with 
belts manufactured by them from our leather. Its use 
is your assurance of receiving the genuine and origi- 
nal California Saddle Leather produced exclusively. 
j at out tannery located in Santa Cruz, California. 

A. K. Salz Company. 


la Better Stores Everywhere 

For Name of Your Nearest Store Write to 

GANSON, handbags 

1 82 Second Street, Dept. C, San Francisco, Calif. 

PHIL SOCKETT, ^Its since 192^ 

1240 South Main Street, Dept. B, Los Angeles, Calif. 

Vol. VI 
No. I 

THE CALIFOF.NIAN ts published monthly by The Caltfornlan, Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles, 15, Calif., printed In U. S. A. Yearly subscription August 

price S3. 00. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office. Los Angeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3. 1879. 1948 





\\z $JiL r Lj '^ 






' ' ■ 

A narrow strip of Stardust 
over the wide kelly or 
red belt. This Marion McCoy 
Original is a "must" 
dress for finding 
the sunny side of 
college or career life. 

Wyner's figure-loving all 
wool worsted jersey in 


grey only. Sizes 9 to 15. *',"£ 

& m 

■■ " ■ 

En w ' J rX 





J \ 


'-.. ^Hj 


^r order by mall from 

' : '%m 


w College and Career Shop 

. 1 i 

THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 


of Hollywood 
latest creation . . . 


Red-Green Trim 
Green-Red Trim 
White-Black Trim 
Black-White Trim 
Brown-White Trim 
All White Lacing 
Check or Sizes 4 to 8 

Money Order. 
No C.O.D., 

This summer 

you'll want 



with your 

new look. 





5638 Lankershlm 111., N. Hollywood, Calif. 
I'll.;,.. Bend me pairs ROBIN HOOD 



Enclosed □ 

Money Order 




Slate - 



for gourmets only 

Fine food in an atmosphere 
of convivial friendliness! 

Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth 

CR 5-0191 
BR 2-3432 

a ma mumm 

The Time: 1847 . . when the United States and Mexico were forcibly arguing over 
the possesssion of California. 

The Place: The town of Monterey, captured by the Americans, who were convinced 
that Mexican officers were being sheltered in the homes of the Cali- 
fornians who lived there. 

ONE CHARMING lady, in order to allay 
the suspicion which surrounded her, in- 
vited all the American officers and many 
other guests to a fandango at her hacienda. 
Such open-hearted hospitality disarmed 
even the most suspicious of the American 
officers. They danced and flirted the party 
through, completely unaware that only a 
few yards away from them was a man 
they wanted . . snoozing peacefully, curled 
up in the huge adobe oven which stood 
near the cook house. 

On another occasion the grapevine car- 
ried the news that Chavez, one of the Mexican leaders, was hidden in the com- 
munity. After several futile attempts to corner Senor Chavez, the Americans were 
beginning to grow a bit hot under their collars. So, when a reliable report whis- 
pered that the elusive Chavez was in a particular house, the American commanding 
officer, under cover of night, surrounded the place, and with a couple of his officers 
unceremoniously entered the front door. While they were apologizing for their 
intrusion and explaining their errand, there was a quick scurrying in other parts 
of the house. But the ladies who received them were calm and cordial. They 
offered to do all they could to help find the "obnoxious Chavez;" and though of 
course they knew nothing of his whereabouts, they lighted candles and led the 
Americans through the whole house, lifting all the curtains and peeking in all 
the nooks and closets to prove that they told the truth. It began to seem very obvious 
that the officers were in the wrong. 

Finally, the search led to a chamber where two beautiful young ladies lay in 
bed, like sleeping angels with their dark tresses floating over the pillows. The 
blushing officers tiptoed through a sketchy search of the room, then, in a flurry 
of confusion and apologies, departed. At that in- 
stant Senor Chavez gleefully appeared from 
his hiding place between the angelic look- 
ing young ladies who had jumped into bed for 
the purpose of concealing him. 

a true story by mar^aret chamberlin 

THE CAM FORN I AN, August, 1948 

Campus Charmer 

A Western Fashions Authentic 
designed by Jery Grinel . . . 

two-piecer with button tab 
shoulder and back dipping contour 
belt. Sizes 10-18. Gray, Navy, 
Fall Green, Dark Brown. In 
Rayon Gabardine. $22.95. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 


No Experience Or Special Tools Needed 

1 . Trace Pattern on Wood 

2. Saw It Out 

3. Put It Together 


Double Duty 




Spice and 
Utensil Shelf 



Works Just Like a Dress Pattern 



Add 3c to each item for handling and postage. 


□ Spice and Utensil Shelf, #63— 25c 

□ California Lawn Chair, §55 — 50c 

□ Double Duty Smoker, #57 — 50c 


□ Bel-Air Barbecue Dining Table and Benches, 

#62— 75c 

□ "Cobbler's Bench" Coffee Table, #60 — 35c 

□ Beverly Hills Hanging Shelf, #67 — 30c 

□ Wren (Bird) House, #71— 25c 

□ Santa Barbara Bookcase, #77 — 35c 

□ Child's Desk and Seat, #74 — 50c 

Add 3c to each item for handling and postage. 
Name „ - 


MAIL TO: California Living Co., 

1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Artist David Hall re-creates the vivid scene and captures the pioneering spirit of a U. S. Cavalry 
outpost in this sketch for "Fort Apache," an Argosy-RKO Radio picture now being exhibited. 


XT ollywood's drive to slash film production costs has opened a creative vista to 
scores of noted California artists. It is the technique of envisioning, long before 
production, the scenes which will comprise each sequence of important new motion 
pictures. The new approach . . art work even before film work has begun . . is 
both an important artistic and economy measure. 

Briefly, from the pages of a freshly completed script, the pre-production artist 
is charged with creating scenes on paper which will capture the spirit and per- 
sonality of the motion picture. From that re-creation, sometimes in oils, sometimes 
in etchings, and frequently in fine charcoal work, the talented Hollywood director 
can readily map his approach to a picture. He can toss out unnecessary material, 
envision the positions of his personalities long before the cameras grind, and can 
effect valuable savings in distant location journeys. Vital, too, is the fact art re- 
search suggests excellent settings and unusual costumes. 

One such artist, who recently contributed a portfolio of nearly 50 etchings to 
the Argosy-RKO Radio production of "Fort Apache," is David Hall. 

A 42-year-old native of Ireland by birth and California by adoption, Hall is a 
master of capturing in any artistic media the spirit of a projected film. His paintings 
and etchings for the historical drama, "Fort Apache," are re-created almost to the 
letter in scenes which take place in the picture, which co-stars John Wayne, Henry 
Fonda, Shirley Temple and Pedro Armendariz. It was filmed in the rocky south- 
land settings near Chatsworth, California, and at Monument Valley, Utah, and 
for his visual background. Hall traveled to the two location sites. He studied period 
costumes of America's frontier days and read histories of United States Army 
relations with the Indian frontier chief, Cochise. As it happened on "Fort Apache," 
the completed film was "in the can" before Hall began work from the script. 
But the scenes he depicted so graphically, with only slight changes can be incorporated 
into another film of frontier life. 

He did a thorough series on an outdoor action film called "Mr. Joseph Young 
of Africa." also for Argosy, and is at work on two more portfolios for films 
scheduled for early release. 

"Fort Apache," produced by John Ford and Merian C. Cooper and directed 
by Mr. Ford, has been called the finest screen tribute yet accorded America's famed 
frontier cavalry. 

And in the Hall work for that picture . . the sweep and scope of border life, 
the intimate detail of living in a remote U. S. outpost, the constant fear of the 
Army wife for her fighting husband . . is reflected much of the spirit which has 
won Ford high accolade. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941 

Buff urns 


Jewel neck blouse by Academy of California . . . handsome 
full-sleeved complement to suits or topper for skirts. Made of 
Burlington's rich "Sheer-Top"; self-covered buttons down the 
back. Aqua, white, vibrant fuchsia, kelly, maize, black, beige, 
brown and cocoa. Sizes 32 to 38. $5.95. Same blouse with 
short sleeves, $4.95. 

Ma/7 Orders, Accessory Shop, Street Floor 

THE CAll FORN I AN , August, 1948 


XMfts that bring sunny 
\jalifornia to you! 

INSPIRED ACCESSORY. . . beautifully executed 
monogram lapel pin ... in 24-karat gold on 
suede ... to repeat the glint of your new gold 
sandals or belt. Choice of any initial. $1.50, in- 
cludes Federal excise tax. 

SPINNING ROPE. Any youngster can become a 
champ with this trick spinning rope, leather 
swivel handle-hold, stationary loop. Comes with 
complete directions, wonderful toy. $1.00, post- 

L. ... . -^M 

TORSO GLASS. Your guests will love this ceramic 
mug for highballs, beer. In the shape of a corset- 
encased torso, and well developed, too. Can be 
used for flowers, plants. Green, yellow, pink, 
blue. $1.25, postpaid. 

No. C.O.D.- — please. Send check or money order. 
(Residents of California, please add 2 J / 2 % sales 
tax; 3% within Los Angeies.) 




The Marbert Original, pictured in natural color on 
page 54, is available at the following stores; 

ALABAMA: L. Hammel Dry Goods Co., Mobile. 

ALASKA: B. M. Behrends Co., Juneau. 

ARIZONA: N. Porter Co., Phoenix. 

CALIFORNIA: Lerrain's, Tcift; Mkhele, San Francisco; 
Lois Style Shoppe. 7u'are; renwith's. Inc., Santa 
Barbara; Smart Shop, oqlincs; Mildred Moore, Bev- 
erly Hills; Gladys Scott, san Diego; Motz Style 
Shop, San Luis Obispo; Rene Fur Shop, Richmond; 
Dixson's, San Carlos; DeAnn's Long Beach; Smith 
and Lang, Stockton; The Swan Shop, San Diego; 
Helen Carter, Carmel; Swendra's Fashion Shop, 
Fresno; Wanda's Style Shop, Visalia; Livingston 
Bros., San Francisco; Style Shop, El Centro; Escon- 
dido Mercantile Co., Escondido; Bruce-Bob Hughes, 
Ventura; Dolly Brigham, Oxnard; Miss Alameda 
Shop, Oakland; Betty Block, Los Altos; W. R. Car- 
rithers & Sons, Napa and Vallejo; Boretz-Glendale, 
Glendale; F. C. Nash & Co., Pasadena; Hale Bros., 
San Jose; Valley Sport Shop, San Fernando; Pa- 
tricia's, Santa Ana; Lundin-McBride, Palo Alto. 

COLORADO: Daniels & Fisher, Denver; Zetto K. White- 
head, Pueblo. 

FLORIDA: Bertha Cooke, Tallahassee; Smith's, Panama 

GEORGIA: Leon Frohsin, Atlanta; Fine's, Savannah. 

IDAHO: Grace's Dress Shop, Coeur D'Alene. 

ILLINOIS: Charles A. Stevens & Co., Chicago; The 
Rau Store, Chicago Heights; Linn-Scruggs, Decatur; 
Ruth McCulIoch, Evanston. 

INDIANA: H. P. Wasson & Co., Indianapolis; Kaiser's, 
Evansville; D. B. Fishman's, Ft. Wayne. 

IOWA: Wolf's, Des Moines. 

KANSAS: Hinkel's, Wichita; Billie's, Topeka; The Stiefel 
Stores Co., Salina; Pegues-Wright Dry Goods Co., 

Selman & Co., 


Levy Bros. 


H. P. 



B. Siegel 











MISSOURI: Covin's, Springfield; Woolf 
City; Son nenf eld's, St. Louis. 

MONTANA: Boyington Gown Shoppe, 
Shop, Great Falls. 

NEBRASKA: The Aquila, Inc., Omaha, 
Miller & Paine, Lincoln. 



Ale's, Alliance; 
W. Mer- 



NEW MEXICO: The Guarantee, Santa Fe; W. 
ritt, Roswell; Georjess, Las Cruces. 

NEVADA: Ronzone's, Las Vegas. 

OHIO: Donenfeld's, Dayton; Kay's Shoppe, 

OKLAHOMA: Fashion Shop, Guymon; Mrs. 
Shop, Bartlesville; Grace Shop, Nowata; 
Ponca City. 

OREGON: Hermanek's, Eugene; Adrienne's, Medford; 

Long's Apparel, Klamath Falls; Miller's, Salem. 
PENNSYLVANIA: Read Dress Shop, Erie. 
RHODE ISLAND: Betty Rand, Providence. 

TENNESSEE: Pauline Lewis, Nashville; Miller Bros., 

TEXAS: Farris Dress Shop, Palestine; Maison-Myro, 
Galveston; Johnson Dress Shop, Fort Worth; Elinor's, 
Sherman; The Vogue, San Antonio; Palais Royal, 
Longview; Elwyn, Inc., Wichita Falls; Accessories 
Shop, Amanllo; Nash Tucker's Shop, Odessa; The 
Little Shop, Big Springs; Knobler's, Brownwood; W. 
A. Holt, Co., Houston & Waco; Smartwear, Dallas. 

VIRGINIA: Samuel Spigel, Roanoke. 

WASHINGTON: Andrews, Tacoma; Brower's, Aberdeen. 

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A Superb Creation by TRINA 

Available 3 to 9 in half sizes 
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"■ •""• :J 

What's In A Name? 



\_>l alif ornia, with a rich historical background reaching back to the times of the 
Spanish conquistadores, has a map sprinkled with fascinating names . . names that 
present a kaleidoscopic tableau of its eventful and glamorous past. San Francisco, 
Santa Barbara, Monterey, Calaveras, Yosemite, the Golden Gate, Death Valley, 
Shasta, Siskiyou, Mono, Mohave, Coronado . . these are a few of the stars scin- 
tillating in California's sky of names, and quite as picturesque as her scenic 
panorama of majestic mountains, great deserts, lovely valleys and parks. 

Many of them are obviously souvenirs of the Spanish days. Sacramento, the 
capital city, is the Spanish word for "sacrament". It takes but little imagination 
to discern behind the name the old padres and their missions. Named for old 
missions are San Francisco, Santa Barbara, Santa Clara and San Bernardino. So 
is San Luis Obispo, which in English means "Saint Louis, bishop". San Jose 
bears the name of the patron saint of Mexico, and San Diego, Spain. 

Los Angeles originally was "The City of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels," 
so named by General Portola. The General led a group of Spanish musketmen 
and Franciscan fathers up the coast and chose the site as a good one for a city. His 
judgment was excellent, but the name he gave it was too unwieldy for daily use, 
and it has been abbreviated to Los Angeles, "the angels". 

San Joaquin in Spanish signifies "whom Jehovah has appointed," and Mon- 
terey is named for the Count of Monterey, onetime viceroy of Mexico. It translates 
into "mountain of the king". Mono, name of a lake and a county, is the Spanish 
word for "monkey". Coronado bears the name of a famous conquistadore, Francisco 
de Coronado; Calaveras, the Spanish word for "skull," was so called on account 
of the great number of skulls in the vicinity, supposed to be from an old Indian 
battle; and Santa Monica was a Spanish saint. 

Palo means "timber" in the language of the conquistadores, hence Palo Alto, 
"high timber", and Paso Robles becomes "the pass of the oak trees" when anglicized. 
Those who cross the border into Old Mexico and go to Tia Juana have an excellent 
reason, for they are paying a visit to "Aunt Jane". 

Though the tongue of Cortez and Coronado seems to have corralled a lion's 
share of California place names, the Indian tribes whose home it was at an even 
earlier date have contributed many, some of the state's most famous among them. 
Yosemite Park commemorates the name of one tribe, "uzumaiti" in the dialect of 
the red man, being their word for the grizzly bear. 

Shasta, Mohave, Tuolumne, and Ukiah . . a mountain, a desert, a river, and a 
town . . each carries the name of a tribe. Ukiah is a corruption of "yokaia," the 
meaning being given by one source as "lower valley," and by another as "strangers". 
Tuolumne, a very familiar region to anyone who has read John Muir's books, stems 
from the word "talmalamne," "group of wigwams," while Mohave came to its 
present form in a fortunate abbreviation of the phrase "hamunkh-habi," signifying 
"three hills". 

Tahoe meant to the Indian "big water," certainly an appropriate term for this 
large and lovely lake. Mark Twain's description of it in Roughing It is an American 
classic. Pasadena, scene of the celebrated Tournament of Roses and the Rose Bowl 
football game each New Year's Day, comes from an Indian word which, very aptly, 
means "crown of the valley". 

Pomona honors the Roman goddess of fruit; and Anaheim is named for the 
first white child born in the settlement, Anna Fischer . . "Anna" plus "heim," the 
German word for home. The Muir Woods enshrine in sublime forest hall of 
fame the name of John Muir, the naturalist-writer who loved the California 
mountains so deeply, while San Francisco's magnificent bay looked like the Golden 
Gate to Jessie Benton Fremont, who saw it when the setting sun shone with telling 
effect on the water and nearby cliffs and hills. 

Most interesting of all perhaps, is the name California itself, which apparently 
is also a memento from the Spaniards. Cortez discovered the region in 1535 and 
named it California. Twenty-five years earlier, however, the name appeared with 
exactly the same spelling in a book titled "Las Sergas de Esplandian", and written 
by Garcia de Montalvo. The passage from Montalvo's romance follows: "Know 
that, on the right hand of the Indies, there is an island called California, very 
near to the Terrestrial Paradise, which was peopled with black women without 
any men among them, because they were accustomed to live after the fashion of 
Amazons." It is possible that the early Spanish explorers, having read the book, 
believed they had arrived at the "island called California." 

Some authorities believe that it stems from the Spanish word "califa," which in 
turn descends from the Arabic "khalifah," and means "successor." Still others 
suggest the name may have come from the Indian words "kali forno," a phrase used 
by the Baja California aborigines to mean their "native land." 

Whichever . . it's a wonderful place to live! 


special publication of 


is just off the press 
and ready for mailing 

Write For Your Copy Today! 

• Dressing by Design is a famous fashion 
designer's notebook . . . it's a coordinated 
collection of 10 important fashion articles 
by Florence Shuman, beautifully reprinted 
from The Californian Articles that tell you 
simply, and graphically, how to dress to your 
personality, how to play down your figure 
faults, how to play up your good points, how 
to appear constantly as a well-dressed, appro- 
priately dressed woman . . . regardless of 
your budget. Dressing by Design can do 
things for you! 

• It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll 
cherish . . . for only 50 cents. It's a digested 
course in design for dressing that could cost 
you ever so much more. So reasonable, it's 
a wonderful gift for others as well. 

Write For Your Copy Today! 

Simply fill in the coupon below and mail 
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid 
by us to 


1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

To: The Californian, 1020 S 
Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of 


Main St., 




(City, Zone and State) 
is payment for Q copies. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 



\jifts in the 

Xjalifornia manner 

planter you've ever seen. Copper vessel set in 
miniature maple-finish ironing board, 9 long. 
Complete with tiny brass iron and intricately 
wrought trivet. $3.95 postpaid. 

WESTERN MATCHES. Box of 50 match packages, 
attractively wrapped in cellophane. The perfect 
touch for your barbecue dinners, because each 
package is adorned with a bucking horse, sur- 
rounded by the imprinted brands of all the fa- 
mous Western ranches. $1.25 postpaid. 

ASH TRAY. Gay ceramic ash tray in the figure 
of a frolicking fish, executed in blended sea 
colors. A wonderful California touch for your 
beach home, your patio, wherever you want 
color and fun. $1.50 postpaid. 

NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money or- 
der. (Residents of California, please add 2Yz% 
sales tax; 3% if in Los Angeles.) 



MONOGRAM-A-DANGLE . . . this chunky, 
gold-finished link bracelet ... a clever nov- 
elty to give a friend, or have for your own. 
Jiffy arrangement for interchangeable initials 
makes it possible to fill orders promptly . . . 
simply print desired monogram clearly when 
ordering. $1.00 plus 20% luxury tax; 2V 2 % 
sales tax if in California. At leading stores in- 
cluding May Co., Los Angeles; L. Hart, San 
Jose; Weill's, Bakersfield; Marston's, San 
Diego; Harris Co., San Bernardino. If not in 
your vicinity, write Biltmore Accessories, 846 
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California. 

TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere 
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly 
appropriate for most any summertime occa- 
sion. Extra good fit assured with adjustable 
straps that smartly buckle for added fashion 
interest. In cloud-white only, in the softest 
elkskin . . . this easy-to-clean footgear is a 
wise choice, indeed. Nicely priced at $5.95. 
Please add 15c postage, and 2 l / 2 % sales tax 
if in California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send 
your order to Bernadette's Shop, Box 372, 
Balboa Island, California. 

QUAINTLY QUILTED . . . yes, the buckle 
is actually quilted in this newer than new 
version of what to wear around your middle. 
This belt, about 2y 2 " wide and made of the 
finest gold kidskin . . . wears well with tweeds 
and silks alike. Comes in sizes 24 to 32, and 
costs approximately $3.50 at leading stores 
across the country. If not available at your 
favorite store, write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co., 
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main Street, Los An- 
geles, California. 

YOUR NAME ... the clock in your hose. 
From Hollywood comes the latest and most 
sensational in hosiery . . . your name in em- 
broidered lettering forms the clock on these 
beautifully sheer hose. With or without seams 
... 54 gauge ... 15 or 20 denier. Selection 
of the best shades including gunmetal, buster 
brown, red fox, navy, black, and spectrum 
colors. Sizes 8 to 11. Made to order with 
any name. About $5.00 a pair, May Co. Wil- 
shire, Los Angeles, and others. Willys of 
Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 28, 

A JEWEL BOX . . . that's beautiful, safe, 
and designed by William Tory, famous crea- 
tor, to last a lifetime! Genuine leather in 
lizard or alligator grain smoothed over a 
frame of pure aluminum for greater strength, 
for harder wear. Solid brass and caps with 
satiny finish add extra elegance. Box lined 
with rayon velvet, equipped with self-rising 
tray, and solid brass set-in lock with key. 
A smart accessory for your luggage ... a 
wonderful gift. Just $7.95, postpaid, Fred L. 
Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 


THE CAtlFORNIAN, August, 1948 

— «m%V 

GREEN-LEAF COASTERS . . . nature's 
own color and design to blend with any decor 
. . . purposeful and pretty for occasional 
tables or your festive board. Made of finest 
quality synthetic rubber, impervious to heat, 
cold, alcohol . . . washable and fade-proof. 
A practical, permanent and gay decoration for 
your home. The set of eight, attractively 
boxed, $2.95. Orders are filled promptly by 
Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, 
California. Please add 2 1 /2% sales tax if in 


is the magic achieved by this stunning wide 
front belt. This latest styling, from our col- 
lection of originals, features an intricate bas- 
ket weave design executed in the finest of 
leathers . . . imported kidskin, lined with 
cowhide. Available in glittering 24-karat gold, 
jet black, brown, navy, light blue, pink or 
white kid, or any of the foregoing combined 
with gold. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. The price, 
J7.95. W-R Originals, 7515 Second Avenue, 
North Bergen, New Jersey. 

THE BUTTERER ... the smart new way to 
butter corn on the cob! No more butter slid- 
ing off the knife. Just scoop up butter with 
this concave, slotted spoon and brush over the 
car of corn. It melts and soaks into the corn 
evenly and economically. Can also be used 
for hot rolls, pancakes, potatoes. Set of 8 
silverplated butterers in gift box, $5.00 pre- 
paid. No C.O.D.'s, please. Florence Lloyd, 900 
Main Street, Racine, Wisconsin. 

SMALL WONDER . . . here's something 
to grace the dinner table of any home-proud 
hostess ... an adorable miniature chafing 
dish. It's of solid copper and brass, and com- 
plete in every detail, including a heating unit 
that burns alcohol, just like a full-sized chafer. 
It makes a stunning centerpiece, and you can 
actually put it to work, keeping melted but- 
ter or cheese sauce hot throughout the meal. 
$5.95 postpaid. Order directly from the Corral 
Shop, Box 918, Rancho Santa Fe, California. 

SNACK SOMBRERO . . . this handsome 
hors d'eouvre tray answers the demands of 
the most discriminating hostess. Made of 
highly polished natural birchwood edged with 
glistening aluminum in attractive scroll pat- 
tern. Wood is especially treated with acid 
and moisture-proof lacquer. The revolving 
center bowl is removable to add to the tray's 
many uses. An excellent gift designed for 
patio or drawing room entertaining. Size is 
12" in diameter. Price is just $5.95. Please 
add 25c for postage and handling, if in 
California add 2 1 / 4% sales tax. Bernadette's 
Shop, Box 372, Balboa Island, California. 



New cross-strap featherwedge 
sandal with matching bag, 
perfect harmony for your 
new fall costume. Suede or 
calf, in rich autumn shades. 
Shoes, sizes 3 to 10 in all 
widths. To retail about $10.95. 
Bag, to retail about $12.95. 
Write us- for nearest store. 


Vic doLton. SHOeOlPG.- 

3665 Whittier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941 



quickly and easily with HOSTESS 
PALETTES . . neat little individual 
serving trays designed from an artist's 
palette . . made of unbreakable plastic 
a damp cloth cleans them bright 
as new. 

to rush out and buy expensive and im- 
practical party favors. Let your guests 
keep their individual HOSTESS PAL- 
ETTES and watch the fun — I have. 
sold in sets of four trays. Red, amber, 
blue, green, and cream-ivory are the five 
colors available, so be sure to specify the 
colors you want. Set of four trays $2.00 
postpaid. Sent C.O.D. plus . postage. 
Order now. 


366 Madison Ave., New York 17, N. Y. 


Sturdy 4" flame for 
lighting. Ideal for 
indoor and out- 
door fireplaces, 


Safe, eco- 
nomical, easy 
to operate. 4 large 
wicks instantly ignite! 

Ruby, emerald, gold, black or sapphire. 

State color preference. 
12", $5.50 postpaid; 24", S5.95 post- 
paid; 30", S6.50 postpaid. No C.O.D. 's. 


8636 So. Dante Avenue 
Chicago 19, III. 

'Playtime" Sandals for Your Comfort 

These comfortable, stylish Play- 
time sandals will make your leisure 
hours far more enjoyable. They 
are double-stitched for longer wear 
and for lighter weight. They have 
a steel arch support for added com- 
fort and real foot protection. Now 
available in beautiful Turf Tan 
Brown leather and come in Wom- 
en's sizes from 3^ to 9. $5.50 
with postage paid. Order by mail 
directly from the Playtime Sandal 
Shop, Clayton 5, Missouri. 


fiestas and flowers are treats for the tourist 

Comes the summer month of August when the nights are cool in California 
. . when you reach for a blanket to snooze . . when you spend days and nights 
in a variety of wonderful activity. You'll find water sports, horse racing, fine 
theatre, beautiful flowers, pageants, festivals, even football, too! Use The 
Californian as your tourist and shopping guide . . come West! 

ZINNIAS BLOOM— In El Monte, near 
Los Angeles, zinnias bloom by the hun- 
dreds of acres. 

DRAMA FESTIVAL— Favorite Plays 
of the Gold Rush Days at the Pasadena 
Community Playhouse until August 24. 
Evenings, except Monday. Saturday 
matinees. 76c to $2. 

portrayal of the life of Christ in the 
natural amphitheatre in the Hollywood 
Hills. Well worth seeing. Nightly at 8. 

— At Hollywood Bowl until September 
4 with stars of movies, radio and the 
music world. 

"where the turf meets the surf," near 
San Diego. Daily at 1 p.m., except Sun- 
day and Monday. 

FLOWER SHOW— In Long Beach Au- 
gust 3-11 in Municipal Auditorium. 

San Luis Rey August 6-8 at Ocean- 
side, near 150-year-old Mission San 
Luis Rey. Fiesta and western celebra- 

FIESTA RANCHERA— August 14-15 
in Santa Paula, with dancing, parade 
and rodeo. 

19-21 in Santa Barbara to replace the 
annual fiesta. Celebration honors the 
trek of Don Gaspar de Portola from 
San Diego to Monterey in 1769, which 
is re-created this year by a band of 
noted horsemen. 

FIESTA DE LA LUNA— August 19-21 
in Chula Vista. Three-day program in- 
cludes parade, beauty contest. 

PEACH FESTIVAL— In Yucaipa Val- 
ley August 20-22. Peaches, plums and 
cherries are exhibited with prize-win- 
ning poultry and livestock. Horse 
show, square dances, carnival and 
peach-picking contests. 

August 21-22 in the heart of San Diego 
County's back country. Barbecue, 
parades, games and dancing.. 

21-23 at La Mesa, near San Diego, with 
exhibits of floral displays. 

FAIR — Third Annual San Fernando 
Valley Fair and Horse Show, August 
27-29, at Roger Jessup Park near San 
Fernando. $20,000 in prizes. 

SPORTS JUBILEE— At National City 
August 28 to include parade, horse 
show, aquatic contests and decathlon 
of sports. 

FOOTBALL — Night of August 18 in 
Rose Bowl, with Los Angeles Dons vs. 
San Francisco Forty-Niners. 

PAGEANT— "In Old San Gabriel" 
August 20-September 8 at San Gabriel. 

Balboa Park, San Diego, presented by 
San Diego Civic Light Opera Asso- 
ciation. 8:15 p.m. 50c to $2.50. 

DAHLIA SHOW— August 7-8 in San 
Diego, 3975 Utah Street. Free. 


Hollywood Premiere's bright coordinates, pic- 
tured on pcge 37, are available at the fol- 
lowing stores: 

ALABAMA: Thelma's, Mobile; Wood & Dur- 
ham, Ft. Payne; Judy's, Chickasaw; The 
Smart Shop, Tuscaloosa. 

ARIZONA: Goldring's, Phoenix. 

ARKANSAS: La Vogue, Eldorado. 

CALIFORNIA: Leidy's Casual Shop, Alameda; 
Rankin Kreatz, Auburn; Martha Dean and 
Young America, Beverly Hills; Vaughan's, 
Bakersfield; Marion & Toni's Shop, Buena 
Park; Townley's, Burbank; Bellflower Sport 
Shop, Bellflower; Lorraine's, Big Bear; 
Suzanne's, Bakersfield; Dorothy Style Shop, 
Covina; Town & Country, Claremont; Polly 
Apparel, Costa Mesa; People's Dept. Store, 
Downey; The Vogue, Escondido; Miss & 
Matron Shop, El Monte; Village Vanity, 
Fairoaks; Kingsbury's, Fullerton; Bon Allure, 
Grass Valley; The Fashion Shop, Glendale; 
Ratcliffe's, Hanford; Cinderella Shop, Holt- 
ville; Fashion Center, Livermore; Bobby 
Sportswear, The Sport Bar, Elizabeth's 
Style Shop, Baldwin Style Shop, Long 
Beach; Gude's, Bullock's, Rosemary Shop, 
Peggy's Hosiery Shoppe, Jekyll's, Los An- 
geles; lller's. Inc., La Joila; Town 'n' 
Surf, Laguna Beach; Van Dusen Dept. 
Store, La Verne; Amber Style Shop, Lyn- 
wood; Duncan & Scheid, Madera; Pat 
Graham, Merced; Scan Ion's, Montrose,- 
Modern Eve Shop, Martinez; Maywood Style 
Shop, Maywood; Jane Davis, North Holly- 
wood; Parker's Dress Shop and Van Dyk, 
Oakland; The Charlotte Shop, Oxnard; Alma 
Mae Smart Shoppe, Oildale; Rue's, Pasa- 
dena; Lou's Style Shoppe, Rosemead; H. C. 
Henshey Co., Santa Monica; Petersen's 
Dress Shop, South Gate; Stockton Dry 
Goods Co., Stockton; The California Woman 
and Sportbar, San Diego; Hale Bros., Sacra- 
mento; Conner's Blouse Shop, Willoh's, 
Peggy Shoppe, San Francisco; Haftie 
Bowers, San Leandro; Modern Eve, San 
Rafael; Davenot's, San Bernardino; Mat- 
ting ly's, Santa Ana; Lois Edwards, Tulare; 
Bobbie's, Temple City; Coretta's, Tracy; 
Peggy Jeanne's, Upland. 

FLORIDA: Lillian Kilpatrick's, Panama City; 
Town & Country Shop, Jacksonville. 

GEORGIA: The Leader, Gainesville. 

HAWAII: M. Mclnerny, Ltd., Honolulu. 

IDAHO: Hat & Gown Shop, Blackfoot; Sandee's, 
Caldwell; Meyer's Apparel, Idaho Falls; 
Harvey's, Lewiston; Modern Deb Shoppe, 

ILLINOIS: Chas. Stevens, The Fair, Wieboldt 
Stores, Inc., Chicago; Jan's, La Grange; 
Mari Ann's, Libertyville,- Wood's Dept. 
Store, Mount Carmel. 

INDIANA: Florence 8. Marie, Anderson; Hoff- 
man's, Evansville; D. B. Fishman and 
House of Golden, Ft. Wayne; Robert's, Inc., 
Hammond; Suburban Sportswear, Indianap- 
olis; Mary Woodbury, Newcastle; Temple's 

KANSAS: Betty's, lola; Mademoiselle, Inde- 
pendence; Stevenson's, Manhattan; Stewart's 
Shop Around the Corner, Salina; Billie's, 

LOUISIANA: Minden Style Shop, Minden. 

MICHIGAN: Kolbert's Dress Shop, Midland. 

MISSOURI: Fashion Favors, Butler; Dean's Town 

Shop, Columbia. 
MONTANA: Aileen's, Bozeman and Billings; 

Eliel's, Dillon. 
NEVADA: Favinger's, Las Vegas. 
NEW MEXICO: Georjess, Las Cruces. 
OHIO: Robert's, Columbus. 
OKLAHOMA: Field's, Inc., Tulsa. 
OREGON: Hermanek's, Eugene; Tessman's, 

SOUTH CAROLINA: The Dress Shop, Columbia; 

McHugh's, Greer. 
TENNESSEE: Cross Fashion, Chattanooga. 

TEXAS: Buttrey's, Inc., Austin; White House, 

Beaumont; W. C. Stripling Co., Ft. Worth; 

Craig's, Houston; The Vogue, Lubbock; 

Bone's, McCamey,- The Model Shop, Odessa; 

Farris Dress Shop, Palestine; The Style 

Shop, Plainview. 
UTAH: Z.C.M.I. and Salt Lake Knit, Salt Lake 

WASHINGTON: Esther Marlon Shop, Ellensburg; 

Vogue Dress Shop, Richard's, Terry Ave. 

Gown 5hop, Mast's, Inc., Ruth's, The 

Towne Shop, Seattle; Helen Davis, Tacoma. 
WISCONSIN: Estelle Shop, Eagle River; W. J. 

Rendall's, Madison. 
WYOMING: Aileen's, Sheridan. 



Get one for your own 
premises or as a gift 
for a friend. 
Made of weather-re- 
sistant aluminum, 
rich black finish. 
Name up to 12 let- 
ters on aluminum on 
both sides. 16" wide 
18" high, $18.50. 
Black finish 
to match 
22" high 
post $4.50. 

Prices j.o.b. Wheeling 

fop Tree Calale& 


Original Handcrafted Specialties 
Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, III. 



Graceful lines and design enhance the beauty 
of the exquisite Rosemont valances, canopies, 
coverlets and quilts just like grandma used to 
make. Handmade valances with the "Peacock 
Tail" fringe are quite out of the ordinary used 
with our muslin curtains with Early American 
furniture. Hand-tied canopies. $25 to $35. 
"Wild Rose" quilt, $50. Shipped by mail or 
express collect. Write for booklet. 


"Rosemont" Marion, Va. 




to wear under 

your casual and 

formal clothes. 


or White $4.50 
Lace Trim 


o! e £ $2.95 


Send hip 


All orders 


First Class Mail 

No C.O.D. 's 
Write for illus- 
trated brochure. 
Many cute ultra- 
briefs for you! 



OKiflHoma BORn • OKLOHomp outncD • OKLAHoma mnnnccD 

john usm 

A college classic with a "date" flavor ... in rayon gabardine highlighted by 
a saucy peplum and dolman sleeves. Western Fashions Authentic, designed by 
Jery Grinel. Sizes 10-18; gray, cocoa, navy, green. $25 


THE CAM FORN I AN, August, 1948 

JOLLEGE REQUIREMENT . . . two-piecer with a high fashion 
rating, a Western Fashions Authentic designed by Jery Grinel. 
Yoke-interest gabardine shirt in powder blue, navy and cocoa with 
harmonizing striped tweed skirt. Sizes 10-16. $22.95 

THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 



Sizes 4 to 9 Widths: Narrow, Medium, Large 

Cocoa Brown Suede Only 

Order by Mail . 

Frank Amatuzio 

6411 Hollywood Blvd., Suite 219 

Hollywood 28, California 




Check Enc 



7nn*» .Sfntp 
Money Order □ C. O. D. Q 


from 71:30 



1 Block north of Wilshire 
BR. 2-2214 

in tie Valley 


1 block west of Coldwater Canyon 
ST. 7-1914 




Of The Californian to your friends is a 
pleasant, constant reminder of your thought- 
fulness. Only $3 a year. Subscribe todayl 

In Books 

by hazel alien pulling 

U nderstand yourself is the keynote of 
You and Psychiatry (Viking, 175 p. $2.50) 
written by the noted psychiatrist William C. 
Menninger in editorial collaboration with the 
author of the popular Ferdinand the Bull, 
Munro Leaf. Scientific and reliable, this ex- 
planation of the inner compulsions of man 
has all the worth of the authentic treatise 
with none of its usual formidable qualities. 
Here in graphic style, simple, clear and di- 
rect, is the explanation of why we act as we 
do, what drives us on, keeps us balanced, 
helps us meet and cope with reality. Urges 
and desires from childhood to old age are 
placed in their normal setting with much de- 
bunking of long established but erroneous 
beliefs. Practical advice on how to get along 
with others, how to rear your children, how 
to make personal adjustments, and many 
other subjects is given with factual informa- 
tion on when psychiatric help is needed and 
where it should be sought. 


America and Americans viewed- through 
the eyes of California's Henry Miller is the 
subject of The Air Conditioned Nightmare 
(New Directions, 292 p. $3.00). In it a col- 
lection of stories and essays combines to create 
a travelogue of the author's cross-country 
search for "inner America." Lately come from 
ten years spent in art centers of Europe, and 
an artist by nature, sensitive and perceptive, 
Henry Miller throws into relief many facets 
of American life that escape the casual and 
habitual observer. From sophisticate to sim- 
ple folk, from skyscraper to slum home, he 
exposes both the zenith and the nadir of 
American life. Implicit in his critique is an 
irritation with our native hesitancy to accept 
and applaud the new in life. Vitality of style 
and freshness in point-of-view make this por- 
trayal of the American way of life and thought 
interesting and provoking. 


Westerners' perennial interest in their own 
history will find a new outlet in Stanley 
Vestal's Warpath and Council Fire (Random 
House, 1948, 338 p. $3.50). It is an account 
of "the plains Indians' struggle for survival 
in war and diplomacy" that is, furthermore, a 
study of the basic factors that underlie the 
stress and strain of relations between nations. 
The story of aggrandisement, personal and 
public greed, lack of understanding, the cruel- 
ty of man unto man, and how they once re- 
sulted in forty years of war and resulting 
chaos, has manifold implications for today's 
seekers for world amity and unity. 

JtfOHTSmEriS 1006(1 

SUnset 1-6608 
SUnset 2-9326 

Excellent Cuisine 




Sensible Prices 


by Allordale Shop of Beverly-Wilshire Hotel 

August 1 and 24. Phone for reservations. 

12833 Ventura Boulevard 

at Coldwater Canyon 

North Hollywood 










| A sure way to be a clever hostess . . saves 
room and money, tool When guests arrive your 
"screen" becomes an Ambassador bridge table. 
After the game . . coffee? Cocktails? A half 
turn of the knob lowers the Ambassador to 
coffee or cocktail size. Ingenious! Party's over 
. . and in a single motion your table is a screen 
again . . out of the way. Sturdily built, the Am- 
bassador table is only $17.95, postpaid, in 
California. Add 2'/ 2 % for tax. $18.95 outside 
the state. And it's delivered to your door. Just 
use the handy coupon belowl 
rj The Ambassador table is padded and cov- 
ered with the finest plastic. Three-quarter inch 
plywood, tempered and painted aluminum legs. 
Top 28 72 inches, height 28 inches for extra leg 
room. Colors: Tan, Red or Brown. 


Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

To: Fred L. Seymour Co., 
Box 1176, 
Beverly Hills, California. 

Please send my Ambassador Bridge Table to: 



(City, Zone and State) 
Check or Money Color 

Order Enclosed Q Preference 


THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 

&viee* (fod 

BUSINESS EXECUTIVE . . . one of a 

brilliant new collection of caree r=worthy 
originals designed to assure your success. 
Created in charcoal stripe menswear 
by Dan River, in grey or brown. 
Retails about 23. OO 

d Premi 

Loi Angeles i 5 



THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 


do you like to 

• Helen Evans Brown, The Californian's 
Food Stylist, has 5218 cook books! 

• And almost every one, she says, has given 
her ideas for her special publication of 


Wriie for Your Copy Today! 

• More than 100 unusual California recipes 
are consolidated on 40 beautifully printed 
pages . . appetizing dishes that make cook- 
ing and eating a real pleasure . . a big event 
for you ! 

• The finest chefs of Hollywood and San 
Francisco have contributed their favorite 

• CALIFORNIA COOKS is a treasure to 
keep in your kitchen . . it suggests the proper 
menu, the exciting dish . . at just the right 
time. It's a practical and appreciated gift. 

• A Two-Dollar Value in good eating for 
only 50 cents! 

Write for Your Copy Today! 

Simply fill in the coupon below and mail with 
50 cents for each copy, postage paid by us, to 


1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, California 

To: The Californian, 
1020 S. Main Street, 
Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of 




(City, Zone and State) 
Enclosed is payment for Q copies. 


owing Your Wild Oats 


Here is a recipe for a year-round harvest bouquet that will 
reward your patience and last all winter. It is adaptable and 
decorative for almost any part of your home . . living room, 
library, patio, porch . . office, or school room. It is so simple 
that anyone can arrange it. And it is especially lovely against 
dark wood panelling or a colored wall surface . . highlighted 
with a lamp. Or it is charming in front of a window where 
the light filters through it or where the sunlight throws shadows 
of it upon a wall or table. 

Ingredients: One perfectly round flat bowl or container, 
two or three inches deep . . a pottery casserole (as illustrated) ; 
a wooden chopping bowl ; a copper, brass or bronze container. 
or any round shallow bowl. Damp sand . . not too wet, not 
dry . . packed firmly into the container. Fill it full. 
333 wild oats . . or wheat or barley or rye or any one kind 
of grass or weed that is available. How's your nearest empty 
lot? A full well-rounded bouquet will take from 300 to 1000 
wild oats. Don't cheat and your patience will be well re- 

Proportion: Two to three. Length of wild oats equals three 
times the radius of the container. (If the container is ten 
inches wide the grasses should be fifteen inches long.) 

Width of 

Length of 
Wild Oats 









40 inches 

60 inches 

Cut all 333 of the wild oats exactly the same length. 

Arrangement: Start in the middle of the container and stick the wild oats into 
the wet sand just as close together as they can possibly be. Work toward the outside 
edge. When you finish the arrangement should be perfectly round and so full that 
you can't see the sand. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 

THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948 





/^ Late afternoon 

d* 1 


The artistry of ANDREE GAY 

in a Hess- Goldsmith tissue faille 
, Lp 0- 1 " Si ? es 9*15, 10-18. To retail under 

ffl^ $30.00. 

jV*t June Bright - 35 national covers - 
, I r Q a " ita LaRoy model. 

1 ft 4 Dimensions: ht. 5-5, wt. 1 1 2, bust 34, 

waist 23, hips 33. 

^mt&ti ;' 


For store nearest you, write 


<L (tft^taW- O'iftrly 

On Record 

with frances anderson 

Every once in a while, somebody comes along who is determined 
to make a lady out of jazz, usually via a concert in Carnegie Hall 
and numerous press interviews calling attention to the hussy as repre- 
sentative of true American folk music. And there are of course the 
several contemporary composers using jazz idiom in serious symphonic 

Now to the ranks of Gershwin and Whiteman, the Duke and Eddie 
Condon, we have a newcomer who takes himself and his music so 
insistently seriously that it may be time to pause and consider. Stan 
Kenton is his name, he had his Carnegie Hall show this winter and a 
Hollywood Bowl concert this summer; further, in a new Capitol album 
called "a presentation of progressive jazz," he expounds his musical 
theories in somewhat stately terms, claiming that "jazz must grow 
beyond the rigid disciplining of dance music." 

What he and his composer-arranger Pete Ruggolo have done is to 
exchange a "rigid" limitation of dance-beat for much more stringent 
musical requirements. Their apparent intention is to utilize jazz instru- 
mentation and mannerisms to evoke emotions beyond the usual range 
of dance music. Actually, all the stock moods . . . melancholy, rhythmic 
hysteria akin to eroticism, nostalgia and gaiety . . . exploited through 
the years by every master from Bix to Benny are the plowland of the 
"new" Kenton school. 

The best of the album (notably "Lament," "Fugue for Rhythm" and 
"Elegy for Alto") is interesting if not heavyweight modern music. The 
worst of it ("Monotony" and "This Is My Theme") offers extremely self- 
conscious stridency. Some listeners may even go along with my teen- 
age critic friend who says scornfully: "Aw, he doesn't do a thing that 
Billy Butterfield didn't do six months ago." 

But you can't dismiss the possibility that jazz may after all be a 
lady ... an important contribution to American culture. 

We may be on safer ground if we pass along to unquestioned cultural 
works of recent waxing: 


Brahms' Sonata No. 2 for cello and piano, sensitively and nobly 
played by Piatigorsky and Ralph Berkowitz. This is fine, grand music 
and the album rates a nod for mechanical excellence as well. Columbia. 

Bach's Brandenburg Concerto No. 6, recorded by Koussevitzky and 
the Boston Symphony, is the best job Koussevitzky has done on the 
Brandenburg concertos. It is spirited and elegant, if not virile, as he 
interprets it, and, of course impeccable technically. Victor. 


Peggy Lee says "Baby, Don't Be Mad At Me," and how could any- 
body resent Peg? This is in her best coaxing vein. She pairs it with 
the spritely "Caramba, It's The Samba," a fair-to-middling novelty 
with good backing by Dave Barbour and the Brazilians. Capitol. 

Johnny Moore's Three Blazers keep coming right along as an out- 
standing small combo. Their latest: "You Better Change Your Way of 
Lovin'," rowdy in a nice way; and "Friendless Blues," a smooth 
atmospheric blending. Exclusive. 

Ella Mae Morse, minus Freddy Slack, proves she still has the old 
bounce in "Bombo B. Bailey," a pretty funny novelty, and "A Little 
Further Down The Road a Piece," from her big smash of almost the 
same name. Capitol. 

Mabel Scott gets some solid backing for her rather stereotyped 
variety of singing on "Elevator Boogie" and "Don't Cry Baby." This 
isn't to say she isn't hep or lacking in personality, but she seems to 
belong to a rather large club these days. Exclusive. 

Gordon McRae registers a sockful of personality on "Steppin' Out 
With My Baby," a gay carol; and sounds fairly swoony on "Evelyn," 
even though it's not a sensational ballad. Capitol. 

We'll bet Johnny Mercer gets somebody mad at him with his some- 
what irreverent version of "The First Baseball Game." He and the 
Pied Pipers combine in typical but very likable manner on "Sweetie 
Pie." Capitol. 

The Dinning Sisters come up with a gooder in "The Last Thing I 
Want Is Your Pity," a Gay 90's type novelty; and the rollicking "Bride 
and Groom Polka." Their extra-close harmony is a pleasure. Capitol. 

Herb Jeffreys revives "I Found A Million Dollar Baby" in his usual 
smooth and resonant fashion; and intones "Estrellita" to less good 
effect. Nice background by a trombone choir. Exclusive. 

Frances Wayne is terrific, we keep saying. She puts heart and au- 
thentic blues mood into "You Don't Know What Love Is" and "It 
Might As Well Rain." Exclusive. 

King Cole Trio, good as always, present "It's The Sentimental Thing 
To Do" in a hushed but effective style; and the sage "Put 'em In A 
Box, Tie 'em With a Ribbon." Capitol. 




superbly casual Emmet leather creation 
that goes everywhere. Roomy yet not bulky, 
with convenient outer pocket for things you 
want in a hurry. Top grain, polished cowhide 
you'll be proud to own. In Red, Brown, Black, 
Palomino, and Natural Saddle. Emmet bags 
are perfectly constructed, unlined for longer 

About $11.95 

At better stores everywhere. 
Write Dept. C8 for one nearest you. 



2837 W. Pico Blvd. 

Los Angeles 6, Calif. 

THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948 


rm JZUa 


Eyes will turn your way in 
this Western Fashions Authentic 
designed by Jery Grinel. 
Two-piece scene stealer with 
back-draped skirt. 

Blouse of rayon gabardine 
in navy, yellow and brown 
with contrasting skirts in 
all-wool clan plaids. 
Sizes 10-16. 






THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1941 

if san francisco 

does this beautifully-planned 

tunic suit to wear to matinees 
and cocktails and evenings 

about town ... in fine-quality 
gabardine or stunning men's wear 
...romantic plush red, 
cavalier green, weskit grey, 
mascara brown and black 
sizes 10 to 20 . . . about eighty dollars 
at better stores 

"of san francisco" 

city of sophisticates and superlatives 

of longest bridges and 

suddenest hills, and fairest flowers 

and smartest women. 






or for store nearest you. 





J^XiN Cj of California, In 

C. 910 S. Broadway at Ninth, Los Angeles 


THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 

Exquisitely designed gown with 

lavish black lace applique 
and a ruffled Carioca flounce. 

Sizes 32-40 . . . 

soft pastels, all with black lace. 

o>BEMB£RG'"Rftyon yftRn 

avoid $11.00 at rinet ilcteA 

az wzile Chsc Lingerie Co., Inc. mc santee st.,los ahgeles 15, California a, 

(* \JiMn, 

THE CALIFORNIAN. August, 1948 


CALIFORNIAN VERSION of the shirtwaist classic, 
a Western Fashions Authentic designed by Jery Grinel. 
In Raylaine Chiffon Flannel. Sizes 10-20. 
Sand beige or gray with white pinstripes. $30. 

Moil orders promptly filled. 



at the crossroads of America 


THE CALIFORNIAN, August, 1948 

Judy Mitchell 

Beverly Lake 

Joanne Kirkpatrick 

Joanne McCormick 

Betty Jo LeSIeur 

Sonny Merrill 

Kappa Kappa Gamma 

Pi Beta Phi 


Kappa Alpha Theta 

Alpha Phi 








Barbara Jeffries 

Pi Beta Phi 



The Californian's 1948 College Fashion Panel knows what college women prefer. Se- 
lected from UCLA and USC, these co-eds are outstanding in their interest in fashion as 
a career. We asked them what they liked and why, after a tour of California designing 
rooms and workshops and a peek at the new fall collections. On the following pages 
our college girls model clothes they feel are important for campus life . . . and for you! 


VOL. VI NO. 1 

AUGUST 1948 

CORRECT for college! You'll 
double - check this gay plaid 
fleece jacket with back pleat and 
belt. By Koret of California. Sizes 
10-16, about S17.95 at Bullock's, 
Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago; 
The Hecht Co., Washington, D. 
C. Hat by Weyman Bros. 


VICE PRESIDENT Herman Sonnabend 


MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson 


FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 


FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary 

Alice Stiffler 
Malcolm Steinlauf 
Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Frances Anderson 

Alice Carey 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

ART -_ Morris Ovsey 

Mary Ann Bringgold 
John Grandjean 
Ann Harris 


MERCHANDISING Loise Abrahamson 

FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 

PRODUCTION Daniel Saxon 

California fashions 

Trojan Tactics at USC . 30 

Bruin Strategy at UCLA 32 

Class Time 34 

Campus Coordinates .. 36 

Four-Part Formula . 38 

Gridiron Classics 40 

It's Date Time 42 

Cram Session . 44 

Jam Session 45 

Contour on Campus 46 

Your Perfect Suit . 53 

A Classic Worth Your Study 54 

Winter Cottons 62 

Patterned For You 64 

California fiction 

The Dinosaur Fight at Wilshire & La Brea 52 

California features 

What is Fashion Made of? by Virginia Scallon 60 

The Quality of Change 55 

UCLA Serves the Public 56 

USC Trains for Leadership 58 

California living 

When Four Rooms Seem Like Seven 48 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 66 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los 'Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager, 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Nedom L. Angier, Jr., 
Ill W. Jackson Blvd., WAbash 9705; Detroit Office, C. Frank Holstein, 2970 West 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7; Seattle Office, J. Allen Mades, 209 
Seneca, Eliott 5919. Subscription price: $3.00 one vear; $5.00 two^ years; $7.50 three 
years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United States. 35c per 
copv. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, 
California, under act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Repro- 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized. 

Tommy Trojan, statue, and George Tirebiter, airedale 

nascot, tirelessly uphold the fame of the 

University of Southern California in the heart of 

metropolitan Los Angeles. Founded in 1880, this 

privately endowed school currently numbers 16,000. 

Men of Troy are valiant warriors; have emerged 

victorious in eight of ten Rose Bowl football games. 

28th Street, fashionable Sorority Row, houses 

daughters of many illustrious citizens of the West. 


Campus-wonderful . . opposite page, left, 

Saba of California's corduroy three-piecer, 

skirt, vest and blouse, sizes 9 to 15. 

Junior Miss of California corduroy wardrobe 

wonders; jacket, about $13; skirt, about $8; 

pedal pushers, about $6, with quilted yoke 

blouse, about $8. Sizes 9-15. This page, 

above, Madalyn Miller's rayon plaid that 

looks and feels like wool. It's washable! 

Sizes 9-17, 10-18, about $30. Right, 

Marjorie Montgomery's gabardine suit with 

sailor collar, 9-15, 10-18, about $24. 

r 4 i # $ i fl 






HHH | 

"Hail to the hills of Westwood" where 15,000 

students attend the University of California at 

Los Angeles ... in a beautiful residential tract 

on the road to the sea. Truly democratic, 

some Bruins are million-heirs, thousands are 

self-supporting. Tuition is negligible, scholarship 

high. Tracing its history to 1880, UCLA 

currently is in the midst of a great academic 

expansion. And Hilgard Avenue's luxurious 

Sorority Row sets the fashion pace. 


Royce Hall, scene of Campus Theatre 
productions launching many a career, is 
favorite meeting spot. Left, rayon 
gabardine jumper dress by Lanz of 
California, 9 to 17, about $22. 
Top right, belt interest on gabardine rain- 
coat by Viola Dimmitt, 8 to 1 8, about 
$50, at Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. 
Below, gold buttons on gunmetal Dan River 
Dantone striped cotton, Alice of 
California, 10 to 18, about $13, 
at May Company, Los Angeles. 




class time 

And these fashions are in a "class" by themselves . . opposite page, 
Sonny chats with Dick Taylor while he admires her Lynn Lester 
rayon gabardine classic. Sizes 1 to 18, about $25. Above, left, 
Beverly shows off, but you won't have to . . you'll attract 
all the attention in this Barney Max three-piece outfit. Botany 
gabardine coat, about $60. Celanese crepe classic blouse, about $9. 
Hoffman Woolen skirt, about $15. Sizes 10 to 20. Right, Betty Jo 
chooses Hollywood Premiere's rayon gabardine suit, sizes 
10 to 18, about $25. Stores listed on page 70. 



Koret of California conducts a whole class 
of campus sportsters destined to rate straight 
A with you. Down in front, smarty pants with 
slit-back girdlwaist, sizes 10 to 18, about $7, 
in-or-out shirt about $8, both of Dundee suit- 
ing. Right, button-box skirt, sizes 10 to 18, 
about $6; town and country jacket of red or 
■^ green and white Plymouth plaid, sizes 10 to 
18, about $15. Back, fleece mackinaw, about 
$18; trim slacks with slit-back girdlwaist, sizes 
1 to 20, about $7. Wondrous California 
colors. Buy separately or as shown, at Bullock's, 
Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago; The Hecht 
Co., Washington, D. C. 
See page 70 for additional stores. 

campus coordinates 

Pick a partner . . . for daytime, class or playtime, Hollywood Premiere's 
bright coordinates were picked for honors by our college panel. Striped 
100% wool jersey blouse, under $11, teams up with flared skirt or slim 
skirt or slacks of fine British herringbone menswear gray, each about $11. 
Seated, skirt and vest combination in gray, under $18. The Deering- 
Milliken wool covert topper comes in red, green or blue, under $30, and 
the matching vest is about $11. All in sizes 1 to 18 (slacks to 20) at 
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Craig's, Houston; Chas. A. Steven's, Chicago; 
Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. See page 70 for additional stores. 









You won't need an algebraic equation to 
figure this formula for wardrobe success! And thanks 
to Tabak of California, it fits right info 
your budget without benefit of slide rule! Dan River 
rayon suiting in a nailhead pattern combines 
with knitted rib trim for color accent and better fit. 
Opposite page, left, pedal pushers, about $10; 
vestee with rolled collar, about $11; 
button-front skirt, about $11. This page, 
one-piece dress with cardigan front, about $23. 
Coordinated separates to mix or match, available at 
Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis; A. Harris, 
Dallas; and Roos Bros., San Francisco. 


gridiron classics 

First team favorites . . for your personal triumph 
at game time. Above, Ken Sutherland scores with young 
hearts by blending Hoffman Woolens in Eton jacket, 
plaid skirt, sizes 10 to 20. About $55. Haggarty's, Los 
Angeles. Opposite page, left, a winning team by 
Zolot of California, three-piece suit, sizes 1 to 16. Bolero 
and skirt, about $30, jersey blouse about $9. May Co., 
Los Angeles. Center, handsome wool jersey with copper 
buckle by Mitchell and Hoffman. Sizes 10 to 20, about $25. 
Broadway, Los Angeles. Strictly "varsity" . . this polka 
dot jersey, right. Contrasting apron is removable. 
Lanz of California. Sizes 9 to 17. About $38. 



\ \ \ 



it's date time 

Major in extra-curricular activities with California's glamor-wise 
date bait! Opposite page, left, Barbara wears Andree Gay's sleek 
black satin, pink blouse. Sizes 8 to 1 6, 7 to 17, under $30. 
Center, Eleanor in rustling taffeta, Francine Frocks, 7 to 17, 
about $30. Weyman hat. Right, Sonny in two-piece crepe dress by 
Linsk of California, 9 to 15, about $20. Weyman hat. Below, any 
man would wait for Betty Jo in chiffon redingote and moire taffeta 
strapless dress by Glamour Time, 1 to 16, about $50. 
Stores listed on page 70. 



cram sessi o n 

Kitten-soft fashions for the cozy hours . . Beverly, left, in deep-ruffled 
half slip, sizes 24 to 30, about $5. Barbara relaxes in shortie nightie, pastel 
embroidered. Small, medium, large, about $7. Chic Lingerie, Bates broadcloth. 
H. C. Capwell Co., Oakland; Emporium, San Francisco; Nancy's, Hollywood. 


Foamy white net and scarlet 

taffeta formal turns Judy into a 

cloud of loveliness. Emma Domb. 

Sizes 10 to 16, 9 to 15, under 

$45. Younkers, Des Moines 

White House, San Francisco 

Franklin Simon, New York 

J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles 

jam session 


Sorcery in royal blue velvet! 
Beverly wears Cole of California's 

strapless, backless creation. 
Small, medium, large. About $59. 



' ) 

fM^^' ■ 

^ » 4 


^.i' V 

\ ,'( 


Freedom and litheness 

for women with youthful 

figures are these California 

foundations! Opposite 

page, above, matching bra and 

garter belt of quilted satin 

by Anne Alt. Center, leno 

and satin girdle by 

Damsel of Hollywood. Below, 

nylon marquisette and scalloped 

eyelet bra and garter belt. 

Hollywood-Maxwell. This page 

above, Mam'zelle's "Suzanne" 

bra with plastic undercup support. 

Below, strapless bra for low cut 

gowns and lightweight girdle of 

power net, both by 

Helene of Hollywood. 

When Four Rooms Seem Like Seven 

by donald a. carlson 

A shadow box 
effect is result 
of extending 
side walls and 
roof to the front 

HIS IS THE MONTH you're re- 
laxing, basking at the beach . . or 
wish you were . . and this is the 
California house for you! 

A beach house? Yes, but it 
needn't be. You could build it in 
the mountains, on the lake, or 
right in the middle of your own 
home town. It's contemporary, 
comfortable, and the personifica- 
tion of the luxurious, casual Cali- 
fornia Way of Life. It will house 
your family and your week-end 
friends in a style to which you'd 
like to be accustomed. And it isn't too expensive 
to contemplate. 

Welton Becket, architect and interior designer, 
built it for himself . . on the shore of the blue 
Pacific at famous Malibu Beach . . with no con- 
flicting customer opinions of what he wanted to 
design. Primarily of California redwood. Roman 
ruffle brick and clear glass, its four principal 
rooms, garage and terraces roomily provide for 
a family of four, a maid or additional guest, and 
the overnighters who might choose the living room 

alcove. It's called the Shadow Box House because 
its two side walls extend with the roof over the 
windows out front, forming a shadow box effect 
toward a beautiful ocean view. 

Today's problem of space versus cost versus need 
was confronted realistically when Fay and Welton 
Becket decided on a plan. Aiming for the spa- 
ciousness of a rambling structure and the com- 
pactness necessary for quick and easy cleaning, 
they combined the living room, dining room, 
kitchen and guest sleeping arrangements in one 
large living area. And in this house, where fur- 
niture groupings are so important to its livability, 
the Beckets provided a semi-circular sofa to frame 
the living room in front of the brick fireplace, 
with an attractive alcove at right to be comfort- 
able couch by day and sleeping room at night. 
Waldex combed-wood walls, Douglas fir ceiling, 
and birch doors and trim enhance the natural ap- 
pearance of the Philippine furnishings. 

The bar-kitchen to the right of the entrance isn't 
like the customary kitchen where mother is shut 
off in a baked-enamel den. Mrs. Becket can feel 
"right at home and one of the party" when she's 
preparing a meal. Her kitchen cabinets are of 

Semi-circular sofa frames living room area opposite alcove guest quarters 

Glassed wall and terrace extend toward ocean to provide unique dining nook 







— L_ 



t e <\iv ac r 

Front of house reveals facility for maximum view and sun . . inset above are the boys' bunk beds 

the welton beckets' house at 
famed malibu beach was designed 
for comfort, beauty and 
minimum upkeep . . you can 
build it anywhere . . you can 
live like californians do 



birch and her brick barbecue is complete with 
spit. General Electric dishwasher, garbage dis- 
posal, sink, range and refrigerator are the utili- 
tarian pieces, and all-electric. Rubber tile covers 
the floor, and formica provides a smooth working 
surface for the bar top and kitchen sink area. It's 
a handy kitchen and everything is within easy 

A simple dining table and bamboo chairs op- 
posite the kitchen are compact in their space, and 

Before you wander down the hallway connect- 
ing the major living area with the three bedrooms 
and bath, you are intrigued with the storage pan- 
try adjacent to the kitchen. Something so neces- 
sary in a small home . . so welcome in any. The 
master bedroom and the children's room, equipped 
with double-decker bunks, are on the ocean side, 
the glass wall leading onto the shadow box porch. 
Directly across from the main bedroom is the 
guest or maid's room, and the bath. It is here, in 
particular, that Becket has displayed a practical 
originality. The bath and laundry are combined 
. . an automatic washing machine is neatly tucked 
into a corner . . to provide all the necessary fa- 
cilities in one compact room. And at the end of 
the hall is another beach entrance where an out- 
side shower can wash the sand from the Beckets' 
boys, Bruce, age 6, and Welton, age 4, before 
they can "track up the house." 

Everywhere there is a feeling of clean comfort, 
of functional design, roominess and convenience. 
The cement slab floors are easy to clean and to care 
for, and project, when needed, an effortless thermo- 
electric heat. When coolness is wanted on a hot 
summer's day, the crushed tile roof helps reflect 
the heat, keep the house susceptible to the ocean 

One of the unique features of Shadow Box is 
the glass wall that extends from the house toward 
the ocean, to abruptly curve and protect a private 
beach and a roofed outdoor dining area that is 
ideal for the noon-day snack. Here, Mrs. B can 
knit or muse in the shade, yet keep a good eye 
on the very active boys. 

The Beckets had many of their unusual fur- 
nishings before they had their house. And the 
unusual design undoubtedly was planned to be com- 



Outdoor dining is an added pleasure with this protected nook on the glassed terrace 

All-electric kitchen and serving bar occupy one airy corner of the main living area 

Welton and Bruce . . the Becket 
boys . . thrive in the informal 
summer living at Malibu Beach. 




View from kitchen corner shows easy access to beach . . modern fireplace of roman ruffle brick is focal point for the large living room . . dining table at left 

patible with materials they had brought from the 
Philippines. Two years before the war the Beckets 
were living in Manila while the architect was 
building a jai-a-lai stadium. It was this stadium 
that became so famous during the siege . . one of 
the very few buildings still standing when Mac- 
Arthur entered and took it over for his headquarters 
and hospital. 

During their stay in the islands the Beckets had 
made several trips to the head-hunter country of 
the Igorots, bought most of the handwoven mate- 
rials used throughout their new house, and re- 
turned, too, with the hemp floor coverings and 
much of the native bric-a-brac. Ornamental ash 
trays and the handwoven bamboo shades were pro- 
cured on another excursion to the China coast. 

Stripped of the glamor of the orient and the 
comfort of its furnishings, the Becket house still 
is a practical, wonderful house for the average fam- 
ily who would shun fancywork, period furniture, 
the high, stiff collar . . and adopt young ideas. A 
lot 53 feet by 86 feet is required if you wish to 
include the terraces, the outdoor dining nook and 
the long glass wall. Otherwise, 53 by 56 will do. 

Many of the unusual furnishings were brought from the Philippines . . here are scenes in Igorot country 

Overall there are 2,155 square feet of construc- 
tion; 1.275 in the house, 700 in the terraces, and 
180 for the garage. And the cost? $9.50 per square 
foot, in California, would be ample. Furnishings 
can be as modern as you wish. 

There's a house for you. Think of it in free and 
easy terms of good living, in practical comfort, 
in the California Way of Life . . in your own 
home town! 

. home of headhunters 



The Dinosaur Fight At Wilshire And La Br 


THE SNORTING forty-ton dinosaur that was seen waddling 
about in Southern California recently is no myth. I saw him 
with my own eyes as did my close friend, Doctor Oswald Ham- 
pleton, leading paleontologist (a scientific tongue twister mean- 
ing someone who likes to rummage about in ancient fossils). 

The Doctor and I share a bachelor apartment near the Uni- 
versity of Southern California where Oswald gives bi-weekly 
lectures on the Mesozoic period dinosaurs. Daytimes, Oswald 
and I sit across from each other at the microscope table down 
at the Los Angeles City Museum. And, although the two of us 
know more about bones than any dozen dogs in town, we are 
by no means in the fossil stage of life ourselves. 

In his early thirties, Oswald is a frail, preoccupied six feet 
two, wearing Harold Lloyd spectacles and a shock of black hair 
that can be combed only with a garden rake. We are both 
fond of dancing and sweet-talking the opposite gender. In fact, 
Oswald for years has been romancing Helen Dalton, a well 
preserved instructress over at the University laboratories. 

Helen is the nordic blonde type, possessing rare beauty of 
face and definite Modern Age curves. Yearly Helen reads the 
riot act to Oswald, "To be wed or not to be wed, that is the 
question . . remember chum?" But a scientist who spends 
months jig-saw puzzling the knee bone of a saber-toothed cat 
is not one to rush into things hastily. 

One recent summer night Oswald walked into our apartment 
wearing a smog expression and three days' vegetation of beard. 
It seemed three nights previously Miss Dalton had squared off 
and informed Oswald she was marrying a man who hadn't 
required six years to make up his mind. I was seated at my 
typewriter tapping out a breezy little report concerning Fossil 
Birds of the Pacific Coast when Oswald entered silently and 
draped himself around the back of a chair in front of me. 

His appearance was not unlike a Gymnogyps amplus in its 
extreme molten stage. Oswald had reached the more repulsive 
phase of Unrequited Love, the I'm-hunting-for-a-medium-size- 
cliff-to-fling-myself-over phase. As he unwound himself from the 
chair I noticed that he was carrying a fat leather briefcase. 
Its closing zipper had jammed half way across, allowing a 
bouquet of snarled paper to bloom out of the top. 

"If I told you there were dinosaurs living close by 
you believe me?" Oswald asked in a confidential voice. 

"Certainly I would," I said reassuringly, "they're 
as common around Southern California as tarantulas, 
everyone knows that!" 

"You're making fun of me!" Oswald said tragically, 
"Even the Board of Supervisors down at the museum 
advised me to take a week off when I told them 
I saw one last night." Like the villain in Uncle 
Tom's Cabin, Oswald slowly beckoned me with his 
scrawny forefinger. "It's after midnight now . . . 
he comes to the tar pits for watering about this 

"What comes?" I said, not liking the faraway 
glaze in Oswald's eyes. 

"The dinosaur I've been referring to," Oswald 
said patiently. 

"And I assume you are speaking of our old 
Alma Mater," I said politely. "The famous as- 
phalt pits on Wilshire Boulevard where 
ancient Pleistocene monsters tossed their 
bones after they got through prowling 
around in them?" (Continued on page 69) 



YOU'LL KNOW the minute you see it . . . it's your perfect suit for fall! With accessory touches, you have a symphony of color, blend- 
ing autumn-rich tones with the magic of Irving Schechter's tailoring. Lovely Joan Leslie, star of Eagle-Lion's "Northwest Stampede," 
chooses Golden Brown in this soft gabardine suit; Leslie James hat, Parker gloves, Ganson bag. For store nearest you, see page 70. 


A "CLASSIC" worth your study . . . here's c delightful lesson in misty loveliness . . . pale tones for fall. Your campus 
basic, a Marbert Original, will turn heads . . . and, most likely, affect hearts, too! Cohama Del Mar wool, with pig- 
skin belt and buttons. Agnes hat, Emmett bag, Parker gloves, California Moderns shoes. For nearest store, see page 10. 


T\ A//"N CI^IDTQ P^~^D ^""^KJP- Rosenblum of California doubles the magic of his 
I VV\-/ Ol\IKI O TWK WlNC won derful suit classic . . . with two skirts! Wear 
the kick-pleated one to match your faintly striped jacket, the plain fly-front type one to give you that new 
two-tone look ... a wardrobe-stretcher of great distinction, sizes 10 to 20, about $50 complete at 
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Roos Bros., San Francisco; Younkers, Des Moines; Carson's, Chicago. 




The fastest -^rowin^ university 

in America is spending 37 million 

more for new buildings 

Beautiful campus of U.C.L.A. is symbolized by twin towers of Royce Hall 


Robert Gordon Sproul heads 
the eight-campus university 

d Nofziger, well-known cartoonist whose work now ap- 
pears regularly in the Saturday Evening Post, The 
American Magazine, This Week Magazine, PM, and 
Liberty, first broke into print in 1936 with the follow- 
ing cartoon: 

A college yell leader standing in front of a rooting 
section flailed his arms and urged his audience: "Come 
on, gang, let's give it the old spell-out: U-N-I-V-E-R- 
G-E-L-E-S. Whew!" 

That brought a chuckle to many a Satevepost reader 
and perhaps gave some of them an inkling of what the 
letters U.C.L.A. stood for. 

In the last 12 years, however, U.C.L.A. has needed no 
cartoon to explain to easterners, midwesterners and even 
some unenlightened westerners what the initials repre- 
sent. Two other factors have spread its fame far and 
wide: (1) The phenomenal growth of its student body 
to approximately 15.000 students. (2) the academic and 
intellectual achievements of its faculty members. 

Dr. Clarence A. Dykstra is 
resident provost of U.C.t.A. 

Dean Paul Dodd directs the 
studies for the big A. B. 


Dean Robert Hodgson helps 
the state's agriculturists 

Dr. Stafford L. Warren will 
head up new medical school 

Dean David Jackey teaches 
vital vocational training 

Dr. Jakob Bjerknes he's 
department of meteorol y 

Since first established in 1919, U.C.L.A. has attracted 
scholars, educators and scientists from many well-known 
eastern universities. They saw in U.C.L.A. a chance to 
grow with an up-and-coming school, unfettered by tra- 
ditions and customs. The academic gold rush toward 
U.C.L.A., since Dr. Clarence A. Dykstra, former presi- 
dent of the University of Wisconsin, became provost in 
1945, has been truly phenomenal. 

It is natural to think of a large university such as 
U.C.L.A. as a place where thousands of youngsters go 
to receive an education. In addition, however, university 
research and engineering programs provide an enor- 
mous amount of public service to the taxpayers of the 
state who pay its bills. The saving cannot be accurately 
measured, but it is one of the state's best investments. 

In agricultural and horticultural research alone, the 
University of California has saved the farmers and or- 
chardists millions of dollars each year in developing 
new methods of harvesting, fighting insect pests, market- 
ing the crops, etc. U.C.L.A., under the direction of Prof. 
Robert W. Hodgson, is a world center for research in 
(1) avocado and other subtropical fruits, and (2) orna- 
mental horticulture, a growing industry in flower-loving 

The Bureau of Governmental Research, directed by 
Dr. Frank Stewart, does much valuable work in the 
field of municipal government . . including governmental 
purchasing, fire protection, library services and public 
personnel administration. Los Angeles and other Cali- 
fornia cities have found such studies of great value. 

Closely related to such research is the newly estab- 
lished Institute of Industrial Relations which was set 
up two years ago under a $100,000 grant by the Cali- 
fornia Legislature to promote labor-management co- 
operation. Director of the Los Angeles office is Edgar 
L. Warren, former head of the U. S. Conciliation Service 
in Washington, D. C. He supervises a program which 
instructs young labor and management representatives 
in industrial relations, conducts research on industrial 
problems, and brings executives and union leaders to- 
gether from time to time to discuss their differences. 

Sometimes U.C.L.A. professors are sent abroad to help 
foreign nations solve their problems. Dr. George Mc- 
Bride of the department of geography recently repre- 
sented the United States in arbitrating a boundary dis- 
pute between Ecuador and Peru. Dr. Floyd F. Burchett 
has served in Germany as an advisor on economic prob- 
lems to U. S. Military Government. Dr. David Jackey, 
now dean of the College of Applied Arts, spent several 
months in Brazil setting up a program of vocational 

One of the most famous names in meteorology, the 
science of weather forecasting, is that of U.C.L.A. 's Dr. 
Jakob Bjerknes. Under his direction the department of 
meterology is investigating wind currents, temperature 
inversion and other atmospheric phenomena that help 
produce Los Angeles' smog problems. 

In chemistry, Dr. Max Dunn is becoming world-famous 

for his research in the field of amino acids . . the build- 
ing blocks of protein foods . . essential to good health 
and well-being. Several years ago he organized the 
Amino Acids Manufactures, a non-profit organization 
which produces and supplies high-purity amino acids 
to hospitals and research centers all over the world. 

The department of physics carries on studies in many 
different fields of physical sciences, from basic nuclear 
physics to research in acoustics. Dr. Joseph Kaplan is 
a world-recognized authority on the upper atmosphere 
and serves as a consultant to the U. S. Air Forces. Re- 
search in acoustics, under the direction of Dr. Vern 
O. Knudsen and Dr. Norman A. Watson has resulted 
in great practical benefits to the radio and motion picture 
industries and in the development of precise methods 
and instruments for testing impaired hearing and hear- 
ing aids. 

The original 37-inch cyclotron which first cracked the 
atom has been moved to the Los Angeles campus from 
Berkeley and is now reassembled. It is operated under 
the direction of Drs. J. Reginald Richardson and Byron 
H. Wright. With power boosted by the addition of a 
frequency modulator, the cyclotron will be employed 
in the study of high-frequency particles and in the pro- 
duction of radioactive isotopes. 

Research in radiation medicine will form an important 
part of the medical program now being organized by 
Dr. Stafford L. Warren, former medical chief of the 
nation's wartime atomic energy program and dean of 
the new medical school being built on the Los Angeles 
campus. As contemplated by Dr. Warren and his as- 
sociates, the new medical school and teaching hos- 
pital will be one of the most progressive in the United 
States. Facilities for the study of the basic biological 
sciences and the new field of bio-engineering will be in- 
corporated into the projected medical center. 

Dr. Craig Taylor of the department of engineering 
is one of the modern engineers already doing important 
research in problems which combine engineering and 
medicine. His high temperature studies on humans and 
his research on artificial limbs are well known. 

The guiding principle of Dr. Warren's plan of or- 
ganization for the medical school is that by utilizing 
existing hospital and clinical facilities a full teaching 
program directed by experienced men will be ready 
for the students the day the doors of the new school 
are opened. With the assistance of a group of medical 
educators who accompanied him from the University 
of Rochester School of Medicine and Dentistry, and who 
form the nucleus of the new faculty here, Dr. Warren 
is rapidly assembling a clinical and research staff which 
will be functioning long before the last brick is laid. 

Important cancer research is being conducted at 
U.C.L.A. by various members of the division of life 
sciences. The work is coordinated by committees headed 
by Dr. Albert W. Bellamy, divisional dean of life sci- 
ences, and Dr. Vern O. Knudsen. Dr. Boris Krichesky, 
associate professor of zoology, (Continued on page 68) 

wh <&* 

.' ' / 







Joseph Kaplan directs 
pper atmosphere studies 

Dr. Vern O. Knudsen is an 
authority on acoustics 

Dr. A. J. Salle is leading 
fight on infectious disease 

Dean L. M. K. Boelter heads 
the College of Engineering 

Dean Edwin A. Lee teaches 
teachers to teach children 


Dr. Rufus B. von KleinSmid 


Dr. Fred D. Fagg, Jr. 


T t 

hree miles from downtown Los Angeles by way of 
papa's automobile or the Figueroa Street bus are grouped 
twenty-six schools and colleges . . each an integral part 
of a world-famous institution, the University of Southern 
California, whose annual enrollment has swelled to 16,000, 
and whose athletic teams have won more championships 
than any other school in the West for the last twenty-five 

"Fight On For Old S.C. !" brings a surge of pride to 
50,000 alumni of the privately endowed Methodist school. 
Each year prospective students for the colleges of archi- 
tecture, engineering, pharmacy, dentistry and law must 
qualify for admission at least six months in advance. And 
the tuition is high. 

What makes the University of Southern California so 
popular? What makes it great? 

The sports editor will tell you that S.C.'s athletic promi- 
nence over a period of many years has popularized the 
school, lured students to the balmy Southern California 
climate to cheer a winning team. The educator will tell 
you that professional training offered in large variety . . 
everything from aviation, cinematography, to international 
relations, public administration and the study of Chinese 
. . has been responsible for the school's wide acceptance, 
its phenomenal growth. And overall, its students have main- 
tained a spirit of friendliness that begins each term with 
a week of "Hello and Smile." 

Fourteen hundred faculty members are responsible for 
the education of youth . . many of them are universally ac- 
knowledged for their research. Dr. Irving Rehman and 
Dr. Paul R. Patek have collaborated in the development 
of an X-ray motion picture camera, and now, for the first 
time, scientists are able to study interior actions of the 
body that could not be detected with the fluoroscope. The 
problem was one of synchronizing the impulse of the 
X-ray to that of the 16mm movie camera; German and 
English scientists had been working for years on the 

The camera's first application has been with the study 

of the walking gait to perfect artificial limbs for war- 
wounded veterans. The circulatory system and the heart 
have been other worthy subjects of study, and by giving 
the patient barium, for which film is sensitive, it is possible 
to record complete processes of the digestive tracts. The 
National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis also has 
adopted the new method for research. 

On campus is the largest centrifuge in the world. As 
one of four developed by Army and Navy research cen- 
ters during World War II, it was instrumental in con- 
tributing to the development of the famed G-suit used by 
pilots to prevent "blacking out" during battle. It consists 
of a 46-foot beam with a cab at one end built to resemble 
a pilot's control seat. The subject is whirled at varying 
speeds up to 60 miles per hour in a few seconds. This 
produces the same effect of throwing his circulatory system 
off balance as does a quick dive or bank. Electrical graphs 
of his blood circulation and sensitory system are made 
during the revolutions for later study. 

Many scientific projects at S. C. are of a secret nature. 
The development of a jet engine with power to produce 
speeds up to 2,000 miles an hour comes under the hush- 
hush classification. However, it is admitted that some thirty 
high-ranking Army officers are being sent to the school to 
study the jet problem developments. 

Another group is working on problems of Los Angeles 
smog, so disconcerting to citizens and city engineers. Re- 
search students have found a new method of distilling ocean 
water and are attempting to make it practical for com- 
mercial use. Dr. Charles Lombard and Herman Roth have 
devised a new type of crash helmet to protect aviators 
from head injuries. There's a long list of grants-in-aid 
for research in cancer, infantile paralysis and nutrition. 
Annually many thousands of dollars are set aside by oil, 
chemical and other industrial firms for the development of 
special projects. Dr. Emory S. Bogardus, as dean of the 
graduate school, directs the selective work of more than 
2000 students. 

Dr. Catherine V. Beers is a zoologist who has contributed 

Slavko Vorkapich is teacher 
of cinema at the University 

Dr. Andrew Hansen demon- 
strates ocean water distillation 

Dr. Catherine V. Beers has con- 
tributed to studies of heredity 

Infantile Paralysis Foundation 
aids Dr. John Kessel's work 

Dr. Emory Bogardus directs 
2000 in the graduate school 

materially to the study of heredity, concentrating on the 
small fruit fly which reproduces several generations in a 
few weeks. Her papers on the subject have been read at 
scientific conferences in England and Sweden. 

To Dr. Chester M. Van Atta, formerly in charge of four 
research projects on atomic radiation at the University of 
California, goes the distinction of heading the nuclear 
physics research at S.C. Dr. Joseph Weckler, anthropolo- 
gist selected by the National Research Council, recently 
returned from Micronesia where he spent five months study- 
ing hitherto unknown backgrounds of native tribes. 

And because of his development of a process for cook- 
ing and baking with clay utensils, Glen Lukens was com- 
missioned by the government of Haiti to spend a year 
teaching the natives how to make such wares. The process 
is simple in its proper mixture of earth and ingredients; 
the benefit great in helping to raise the standards of living 
among a poor population. 

Dr. Walter T. Wallbank, once appointed by the British 
government to study her colonies, recently returned from 
research in England, and Dr. Theodore H. Chen of the 
Asiatic studies department is on campus with fresh in- 
formation for students on affairs in the Orient. Dr. Ken- 
neth 0. Emery traveled to Bikini at the request of the 
Atomic Commission to do research on microscopic life 
after the bomb tests. Dr. Eleanor (Continued on page 68) 

The Administration Building at USC is 
the focal point on campus, containing 
Bovard Auditorium. Inset is the chimes 
tower of Mudd Memorial Hall. On the 
hour Trojans hear Alma Mater song. 

Above: Old College, first building on 
the campus, houses department of 
commerce. Below: College of Aero- 
nautics trained more than 8000 flyers 

Mice Ehlers of music school Dr. Kenneth O. Emery studied microscopic life Dr. Raymond C. Osborn discovered many Dr. Paul Patek and Dr. Irving Rehman 
s the stylist of harpsichord on Bikini after the atomic bomb experiments species of byrozoa on Hancock cruises invented x-ray motion picture camera 

Paul Emery, left, and 
Harold King, fabric ex- 
ecutives, explain the 
process of cloth-making. 

What Is Fashion Made Of? 


-F ashion says cotton-for-fall, and it's a wonder no one has 
said it before. Cotton's so right for the dog days of late 
summer and autumn, and now so seasonal in all its new dark 
shades apd interesting textures. It's gaining a greater follow- 
ing among college girls and teensters who joyfully adopt 
it for back-to-school wear; and sensible women everywhere 
see it as the answer to clothes that are cool-but-correct when 
the sun says summertime and the calendar points to fall. 

So now if you feel like choosing a cool dark cotton to help 
you face your future comfortably and smartly, relax! Cotton's 
the thing. You've known it as a perennial school girl favorite, 
a stay-at-home beauty, a summertime fancy. Long ago it came 
out of the kitchen ; today cotton works and plays and flirts, 
it swims and even flies! Cotton's the thing! 

Let's take a good look at this versatile fabric. Let's find 
out where it comes from, how far it travels from cotton field 
to mill. Let's follow it from white fluff into the yardage you 
find in the store . . the dress you wear all year 'round. 

Our journey takes us to Lewiston, Maine, where we will 
be the guests of the Bates Manufacturing Company, makers 
of fine cotton fabrics for more than a century. Bates has 
three of its five plants in Lewiston, gi\ing employment to 
5,040 in that city alone. The company is one of the largest 
producers of cotton fabric in the nation. Its Bates Division is 
the largest producer of woven jacquard bedspreads and match- 
ing draperies in the world, and also makes rayon-and-cotton 
damask tablecloths and napkins. The Androscoggin Division 
is one of the largest rayon weaving plants, and the Edwards 
Division in Augusta, Maine, is one of the few remaining New 
England plants weaving soft-filled goods for the industrial 

We are primarily interested in the Hill Division, however. 
Both this division and the York Division in Saco, Maine, 
manufacture fine combed cotton cloth exclusively . . fashion's 
own fabric: the basic cloth from which chambray, percale, 
calico, broadcloth and many other smooth cottons are made. 
In the Hill Division alone more than 1,500 people turn out 
630,000 yards of the basic greige goods each week, approxi- 
mately 420 yards per person per week, lO 1 /^ yards per hour 
per each! 

Walking over a picturesque moat into a gray hulking build- 
ing, we meet friendly Harold V. King, general manager, and 
plant manager Paul Emery who volunteer to guide us through 
their huge plant. 

"We'll start from the very beginning," says Mr. King. "We'll 
show you the cotton as we grade it, spread, wind and card it, 
comb it for that extra fineness, twist and draw it finer and 
finer into thread, and then as it is woven on superhuman 
looms that work faster than eye can watch." 

The Californion's fashion editor, Virginia Scallon, visits the famous Bates Hill mill, shown above, 
and learns that one bale of cotton yields enough fabric to make 350 dresses like this one of 
Bates Picolay, designed by Louella Ballerino of California and modeled by Miss Bobbi Cook 

We do start at the very beginning . . in cool dark basements 
where giant turbines transform water power into motive force 
for the whole gigantic plant, as they have done for more 
than one hundred years. With the pounding rhythm of the 
turbines in our ears, we go into great storerooms where hun- 
dreds of 500-pound bales of cotton are stored, coming from 
the choicest fields in the Southland, more than a thousand 
miles away. They look exactly alike to our inexperienced eyes, 
these burlap-wrapped bales with their stout metal bandings. 
But we soon learn that they are not alike. Some cotton has long 
fibres or staples; some short; some has greater tensile strength, 
some more lustre or whiteness. 

Mr. King explains that the ideal cotton is a broad blend 
of many varieties, chosen in careful proportions for the par- 
ticular type of fabric to be made. Skilled employees make 
careful selection and start the cotton "boll" rolling through 
some twenty different milling processes, from this original 
blending to operations of opening and cleaning, picking, card- 
ing and drafting, fine combing, drawing and drafting and 
twisting into thread, then spinning, slashing and weaving. 

Each of these is a laborious technical process, age-old in 
tradition and fascinating to watch. Our hosts point out many 
interesting highlights as we go along. 

We learn that a 500-pound bale of cotton yields only 350 
pounds of usable cotton after innumerable cleaning processes. 
There is an 18% loss in preliminary carding, we are told, 
and a trifle over 30% waste in the important combing process 
by which Bates rejects all but the finest fibres. This means 
that a sturdy broadcloth, weighing four yards per pound, will 
measure 1400 yards to the bale of cotton ; lighter chambray 
(five yards per pound) measures 1750 yards per bale. As 
our this-season's sheer cotton dresses require about five yards 
of fabric we look at a bale of raw cotton and visualize its 
contents as three hundred and fifty cotton frocks. 

The infinite labor between bale and finished cloth is a 
story in itself. We learn that cotton passes through more 
than a thousand hands, actually travels for more than five 
weeks through Hill alone before it is turned out as basic 
greige goods, a material that resembles unbleached muslin. 
After that it still must be sent out to finishers and submit to 
twelve more individual operations before it reaches us in 
familiar quality or type. 

Nor is this all, Mr. Emery explains. In Bates' own modern 
laboratories skilled chemists conduct endless tests on each new 
fabric. Every piece is tested for fade, wash, wear, strength 
and "breathability." Each new texture or pattern is the result 
of comprehensive tests before it is released to the consumer. 

As we continue through the Hill plant our guides con- 
stantly remind us of the rigid requirements of perfection to 
which all Bates cottons adhere. Evidence of the care taken 
is shown by the use of machine-made mist which is sprayed 
through the great carding rooms to give cotton strength and 
breathability and to eliminate static electricity. The fine over- 
head spray causes little sprigs of cotton to cling to our clothes. 
and the festoons of fine webbing make the rooms look hoary 
with age, dripping with white moss. Actually, the century-old 
building is in the best condition and is equipped with the 
most modern of textile machinery. 

In the carding room alone we see more than two hundred 
huge new machines, working at the close tolerance of 7/1000 
of an inch, "chewing" at the fringe of cotton as it is fed 
over revolving wire cylinders in the first straightening process. 

Skirting technical descriptions, too difficult for us to under- 
stand, Mr. King and Mr. Emery explain briefly the methods 
used to turn a fluff of cotton into fine thread ready for weav- 
ing. The first "mix" of cotton is blended in huge vats that 
resemble giant washtubs, with blowers and a fast whirling 
motion whipping the cotton against a lining of tiny picks 
that open and loosen the dirt. Fluffy cotton floats out of the 
top while impurities drop through a hopper below. Two or 
three variations of this cleaning process follow, with air 
blowers and suction forcing the lighten-ing cotton over mov- 
ing apron belts to different containers. 

Soon the cleansed staples are in sliver form, an untwisted 

rope of straightened fibers as big as your wrist, kept in cans 
because it's still too intangible to handle in ropes. You can 
watch its progress from cans to spools and finally to bobbins 
when it is given its first winding twist, the start of real thread, 
when the cable is called roving. 

In the spinning room we see how the light twisted roving is 
pulled and stretched many times its original length, then dou- 
bled and drawn again and again for extra strength. There are 
92,000 spindles in this room, with receiving spindles in rings 
going 9000 revolutions per minute as they twist and stretch 
the cable, now eighteen times as fine as the original sliver, 
with 28 turns instead of the original two. 

We are shown how the filling spin thread goes on bobbins, 
and is rewound from its spools to "cheeses" of 50,000 yards 
for warp spinning. Four hundred or more of these rolls, the 
number depending upon type of fabric to be woven, are put 
on a huge metal creel higher than a man's head, and as 
many as 5,000 fine threads are unwound from the cheeses 
to be fed over a roller, the threads now held to their wanted 
width and dressed with starch before looming. 

In the first sticky stage, the unwoven sheeting is slashed 
and its threads separated as the network of cotton passes over 
and under guiding pins. Now the strengthened, "dressed" 
threads are ready for weaving, a maze of countless thousands 
of threads emerging with each thread separate from its neigh- 
bors as they pass toward the weaving process. 

In the weave rooms, warp and filler threads are brought 
together as we watch, the warp on wide rollers and the filler 
thread on bobbins. Whipping its bobbins across the warp at 
204 trips to the minute, each loom averages five yards of 
woven cloth in an hour. Almost human, it seems to us, the 
loom changes bobbins automatically and stops the very instant 
any one of its 5,000 tiny threads is broken! 

Leaving the weave rooms, we are guided to the cloth room 
where we see literally miles of greige goods stitched into 
an endless ribbon of fabric to facilitate handling. Here the 
uncut greige goods is table inspected and cut into yardage 
to be sent to the finishing plants. There it will be translated 
into poplin, percale, etc., appropriate weights designated to 
certain finishes. 

Our journey now takes us to New York City for a visit at 
Bates' sales headquarters, where every operation begins and 
ends. It is here that designers dream up new patterns and 
colors and weaves; here salesmen and buyers transact the 
business that puts cotton in the nation's retail stores, in the 
hands of fashion manufacturers. 

Leading designers, such as California's own Louella Bal- 
lerino, are familiar faces here at Bates' New York office. We 
are shown a new American Gothic pattern, taken right off 
a Rockwell Kent picture, which was a Bates inspiration and 
made exclusively for Ballerino, who projected the quaint fabric 
into jumpers and dresses with the same chaste severity as the 
original picture. 

This particular pattern was printed on the newest Bates 
texture called picolay, a material that resembles pique, but 
the effect is achieved by imprinting pattern, not weaving. It 
has textured interest with advantages of a desirable crisp 
lightness. This is just one of the ways in which fabric pro- 
ducer and designer work together to create original styling, 
carrying through a design idea from the very creation of a 
pattern and texture of material to the dresses we wear. 

We've seen the men 
and women of Bates 
turn raw cotton into 
beautiful cloth. We've 
seen the endless chain 
of planning and pro- 
duction behind its cre- 
ation. And now we 
know why Fashion 
says cotton - for - fall . 
We agree . . cotton's 
the thing! 



Strengthened by sunshine or orange juice 

California youth sets records galore 


VV e Californians are sometimes accused of stretching the 
truth a bit in our enthusiasm for our native state's charms 
of climate, natural resources, and leisurely living. It is 
possible that we are guilty of the charge, but, even so, we 
like to feel: The charms of California are so self-evident 
that our transgression is, at worst, a slight one; and what 
is the harm in a mere matter of degree? It is like the hand- 
some lady, no longer young, who was called to the stand, 
whereupon the judge gallantly instructed, "Let the witness 
state her age. after which she may be sworn." 

In the realm of sport, we Californian." ask only that 
the last two Rose Bowl football games be ruled out of the 
discussion, and, after that, we will grasp the Bible firmly, 
take oath, and swing our superlatives about without fear 
or favor. For California is truly the cradle of great athletes 
and great athletic achievements, certainly unduplicated by 
any other comparable sector in the United States; yeah, in 
the world. 

Whatever the cause — and some suspect vitamins from 
orange juice and elixir from the rays of the eternal sun — 
California-bred athletes have cut a wide swath among the 
record-holders of the world. To the California-bred can 
be added a long list of stars who are at least California- 
trained (we get 'em one way or another!) 

It is particularly in the sports which call for outdoor 
play that Californians have excelled: track and field, golf, 
tennis, and the like. 

The Southern California record in tennis, for example, 
is astounding. It is almost as though one brand of tennis 
is played in Southern California, and quite another in the 
rest of the world. It is a fact that every Junior champion 
of the United States for the past fourteen years has come 
from the Los Angeles Tennis Club, where a tennis-minded 
man named Perry T. Jones, takes the ten and twelve-year 
olds in tow, works arduously with them, and proudly 
watches them become national champions: Boys', Juniors', 
then Men's. Jackie Kramer, currently the world's greatest 
tennis star, is just the last of a long, unbroken line that be- 
gan with Gene Mako back in 1934. 

The number one amateur women's tennis player today is 
Louise Brough of Beverly Hills, product of the same 
courts; and she is also the last of a long line of the world's 
greatest women players: Helen Wills Moody, Helen Jacobs. 
Alice Marble, Pauline Betz — all Californians. 

Two Southern California buddies. Kramer and Ted 
Schroeder, accomplished the return of the coveted Davis 
Cup from Australia in 1946, between them routing the 
highly regarded Aussies, five matches to none. And the same 
pair successfully defended the international trophy last 
year. This year, with Kramer's defalcation from the ranks 
of the amateurs, it is regarded as virtually certain that the 
United States will again be represented by other young 
men from California: Schroeder. Parker, Bob Falkenberg, 
Tom Brown, or, possibly, the new Mexican-American sensa- 
tion, Pancho Gonzales. 

In the realm of the runners, the jumpers, and the tossers, 
it is the same sort of story. The blue-ribbon event of track 

and field, before the National Collegiate Athletic Associa- 
tion and its NC2A meets were established, was the so-called 
IC4A, held on the East Coast. The Ivy colleges began in- 
viting California schools to this meet around 1925, and 
began regretting it almost from the first race. The University 
of Southern California, under Dean Cromwell who ends 
his forty-year career at SC this season, won nine champion- 
ships in the first 14 years. The ninth, in 1939, was such 
an overwhelming display of strength, in which the Trojans 
compiled a record of seventy-one points, that the Trojans 
were no longer invited to compete. Incidentally, in the 
years the Trojans did not win, it was usually California 
or Stanford which did. After 1939, the IC4A returned to a 
regional-meet status, and Penn, Harvard, and Yale were 
happy again. They had a chance. Meet records show that 
a good high school track team in Los Angeles could, year 
in and year out, defeat the teams of the major Eastern 

Orange juice and three hundred and sixty-five days a 
year outdoors? Undoubtedly those are important factors. 

To make the track and field story more current, the 
present world's record holder in the hundred-yard dash is a 
native Angeleno, Mel Patton of the University of Southern 
California. He follows an illustrious list of sprinters at that 
institution, Charles Paddock, Charley Borah, and Frank 
Wykoff among them; the world's greatest broadjumper is 
Willie Steele of San Diego; the world's greatest pole 
vaulter is Cornelius Warmerdam of Fresno; and so on, ad 

Californians think, also, that the greatest all-around 
athlete in American history, not excepting Jim Thorpe, is 
a Negro boy from Pasadena named Jackie Robinson. Robin- 
son recently became the first Negro ever to play in the 
major leagues. But. long before that, Southern Californians 
were startled by reports of the young man's prowess. At 
UCLA, the lithe and swift Robinson was hitting homers in 
a baseball game, broadjumping 25 feet in a track meet, 
looking in on spring football practice on the same after- 
noon. Before his collegiate career had ended, he held the 
Pacific Coast Conference broadjumping record, he was an 
all-Coast selection at halfback in football, he was twice the 
highest-scoring basketball player in the Conference, and 
he was rated the Conference's top major league baseball 

Students of basketball tend to dismiss the cage sport 
from the list of California monopolies. After all, it is an 
indoor game, and has long been identified with the Mid- 
west. It has sometimes been called "Hoosier Madness." 

But it is a fact that, in intersectional play, California 
universities have more than held their own with teams of 
other sectors. And. in 1936, when basketball became an 
Olympic sport for the first time, the team which won the 
United States championship and represented this country 
in the Games at Berlin, was a team representing Universal 
Pictures of Hollywood, composed almost entirely of players 
from UCLA. Don Barksdale, ex-UCLA, is a member of the 
1948 American Olympic team. (Continued on page 70) 

Jackie Robinson 

Mel Patton 

Ann Curtis 

Jack Kramer 

Joe DiMaggio 


Dr. Strub and confreres dream of an opera house and civic auditorium 

make dreams come true 



group of big businessmen of Los Angeles said "I 
told you so" this spring when the Metropolitan Opera 
of New York took an unbelievable $368,000 out of local 
citizens' pockets in fourteen consecutive performances 
at the Shrine Auditorium. Local ticket sales are reported 
to have startled the management of the "Met," too. 
They haven't been the same since. Some $250,000 for 
eighteen weeks of performances is about the best they 
can wring out of their New York audiences. George A. 
Sloan, board chairman of the Metropolitan Opera As- 
sociation. Inc., was so impressed he suggested they change 
the corporate name to the Metropolitan Opera Associa- 
tion of New York and Los Angeles, Inc. But the big 
businessmen who said "I told you so" took it all in their 

As directors of Greater Los Angeles Plans, Inc., 

and opera shouldn't be under the same roof. He con- 
sulted engineers and architects and realtors and show- 
men. His more modest plans were still far more grandiose 
than those of any other city in the world. Greater Los 
Angeles Plans would put up $25 million for a "war 
memorial" auditorium to seat 20,000 — as against 17,000 
for Madison Square Garden, its big rival. They would 
put up $15 million for an opera house. The former will 
have an arena big enough to accommodate hockey 
and even midget auto racing. The latter will be elab- 
orately equipped for television. With these facilities and 
a generous sprinkling of klieg lights the men of vision 
will give Broadway — including long-haired music — a 
run for its money. 

What makes these plans different from the civic pro- 
motions of any other city on the make is the personality 

View of Los Angeles' proposed opera house 

Dr. Charles Henry Strub 

And the auditorium that will seat 20,000 

they sponsored the opera. They expected it to prove 
once and for all that Los Angeles is "opera-minded," 
and to prove it with a bang. Now, from this point on, 
history will practically write itself. But only the naive 
among us expect that the queen of the arts coming to 
live in Los Angeles will transform this sprawling coun- 
try town into a svelte metropolis. All the indications 
are that Los Angeles is more likely to transform grand 
opera. The local show business — never a shrinking vio- 
let — has its eye on a new plum. 

The men who have been plotting to take over grand 
opera since 1944 have not been widely known in musical 
circles. It was in 1944 that Santa Anita's Charles Henry 
Strub, a dentist by profession, impresario of horseracing 
by preference, sat down with his cronies, aging, Canada- 
born P. G. Winnett, president of Bullock's department 
store, and Harvey S. Mudd, fabulously wealthy interna- 
tional mining expert, to discuss horses, sports and opera. 
The racing gentleman, the merchant and the miner were 
agreed on one thing: Los Angeles. To glorify their city 
they conceived of a vast, incredible super-exposition 
palace equipped to handle everything, from grand opera 
to college football. The sky was the limit. Each of the 
three wrote a check for a thousand dollars. They got 
matching checks from four friends. They drafted Albert 
B. Ruddock, head of the Southwestern Development Com- 
pany, as their "volunteer" president. But that didn't put 
them in business. To head the permanent paid staff of 
what was incorporated as Greater Los Angeles Plans 
they borrowed a tall, prematurely wizened promotion 
genius named Ray W. Smith from the Downtown Busi- 
nessmen's Association. 

Ray Smith brought the plans and the wild talk down 
to earth. He found substantial reasons why football 

and objectives of the driving dentist-horseman Charlie 
Strub. All the bills of GLAP, Inc. are being paid by the 
Santa Anita Foundation, a fund built up from the pro- 
ceeds of "charity days" at Santa Anita and allocated 
(under nominal president P. G. Winnett and nominal 
first vice-president Harvey S. Mudd) "to accredited 
charitable and welfare associations." 

The San Francisco earthquake in 1906 was the key 
event of Charlie Strub's life, and possibly the controll- 
ing event in the history of grand opera in Los Angeles. 
The earthquake destroyed Strub's brand new dentist 
office and tumbled Enrico Caruso out of bed. The young 
dentist then took a job playing second base for the Sac- 
ramento Cordovas — and has been a factor in west coast 
sports ever since. The great tenor, then in San Francisco 
with the Metropolitan, was unhurt but outraged. He 
resolved never to play San Francisco again. The Met 
had just given two performances in Los Angeles — 
Parsifal and // Trovatore. It could not return to the coast 
without Caruso and it was not possible to play the west 
without including San Francisco. The hole was partially 
filled by the formation of the San Francisco Opera Com- 
pany, which has supported itself for eleven years by its 
Los Angeles appearances, but it was not until 1948 that 
the Met returned to the City of the Angels. 

"Doc" Strub's career, meanwhile, didn't seem to be 
leading toward grand opera. In 1918 he became a part 
owner and president of the San Francisco Baseball Club. 
He was then a wealthy chain dentist and he went into 
professional baseball management as a businessman and 
as a baseball fan. But baseball business is show business, 
and fifteen years as chief of the Seals transformed Doc 
Strub into a showman. By 1933 Strub had almost 
literally outgrown (Continued on page 70) 



Renie is the studio designer who this month turns her 
designing talent to creating clothes for you to make. 
For eleven years she designed for RKO productions, 
designing clothes for top stars like Ginger Rogers, La- 
raine Day, Ethel Barrymore and Joan Leslie. Re- 
cently she has gone into the manufacturing business, 
creating the daytime and evening clothes with that in- 
definable touch of drama. Renie herself is a beautiful 
woman who spends every spare moment studying 
dancing, riding horseback, ice skating (she's won cups 
galore), and gardening. She has one of the largest 
collection of art and costume books in the country. 
Renie's view of fashion is a ladylike one, this season 
exhibiting a nostalgic feeling for fashion, together 
with a timelessness in styling . . . which makes for 
true wardrobe economyl Her most recent picture ward- 
robe was for the RKO picture "Miracle of the Bells" 
with the new star Valli. 


Now you can make clothes designed for you by Renie 
with the same sure eye for beauty that has made 
her a world-famous studio designer. Opposite page, 
the peg-top silhouette, flattering for so many figures 
and with a certain nostalgic charm. To be made of 
Shirley's rayon Topper, 44 inches wide, about $2.25. 
This page, the picture-pretty silhouette 

with snug-fitted waist and swirling skirt, designed to be made 
of Shirley's 3-ply rayon Strutter, crease-resistant 
fabric that is a practical choice for the graceful full 
skirt . . 42 inches wide, about $2.00. Both materials are 
in California's own high shades and muted pastels for 
fall, airfast process colors guaranteed against 
gas-fading or streaking. 

You may secure your Modes Royale pattern by 
sending $2 direct to The Californian Magazine, 
1020 South Main St., Los Angeles 15. Please in- 
dicate style by number and size . . 1 2 to 20. 


California (looks 


by Helen Evans Brown 

A WELL-DRESSED salad, like a well-dressed gal, goes in 
for simplicity. Complete simplicity in a salad and, according 
to those in the know, complete perfection, is a bowl of 
greens and herbs, served with a classic French dressing. 
The first salad, or at least the first dish of leaves to be so 
called, was merely dressed with salt . . the word salad comes 
from the Latin sal, salt, if you care. Later, oil and vinegar 
were added as an improvement. It might have been better 
if the thing had stopped right there, but, as always happens, 
one addition led to another, one garnish to a thousand of 
them. In 1683 one G. Markham wrote: "First then to speak 
of Sallets, there be some simple, some compounded, some 
only to furnish out the table." That last one, as you've 
gathered, too gorgeous to eat even if anyone had had the 
fortitude. But Mr. Markham spoke first of simple salads, 
the one of mixed greens, and so will I. It is admittedly the 
best of them but, like other things that owe their perfec- 
tion to simplicity, it has a plan. Once the trick is learned 
a masterpiece can be produced with complete nonchalance. 
By you. 

A large bowl is a must, but don't let anyone tell you that it 
has to be a wooden one. That fad has gone the way of the 
many rancid bowls that have had to be discarded because no 
amount of tender care could prevent the soaked-in oil from 
tasting its age. So, unless you have a wooden bowl you're 
sure of, use one made of china, or glass, or earthernware 
. . large enough so that it won't be more than half, or at 
most, two-thirds full of salad. The choice of greens is up 
to you: Lettuce of course, either the ubiquitous iceberg or, 
far better, the tender leaf lettuce. Romaine is excellent, as 
is water cress, chicory (curly endive), escarole (broad leaf 




endive) and French or Belgian endive. (The last, that 
blanched, closely headed long leaf, is frighteningly expensive 
by the pound, but as an ounce or two of it adds much charm 
to a salad, don't skip it too often.) 

Tender leaves of spinach, or indeed any edible leaf, may 
be used, and fresh green herbs are sublime providing they 
are used with discretion. Have the greens chilled, and of 
course washed and thoroughly dried. The French dry theirs 
by swinging them in a wire lettuce basket until every drop 
of water has flown away. A tea towel works just as well, but 
if vou're prudent you'll do your swinging outdoors and for 
goodness sake hold on to the corners of that towel ! Or, if 
this sounds too strenuous, pat each leaf dry with a cloth. 

If you want garlic, and I'm sure you do, introduce it in 
one of these ways: Rub the inside of your bowl with a cut 
clove of garlic, letting your love of the bulb influence the 
vigor of your application. Or emulate the French and use 
a chapon (a heel of bread that has been rubbed with garlic) 
in the bowl when you mix the salad. Or, and this is popular 
with many people, allow a clove of garlic to stand in either 
oil or vinegar before using. Break the crisp cold greens 
into your salad and bring it to the table. The mixing of a 
salad is a pretty sight and one that will be enjoyed by all 
the guests. Bring also a small tray on which you've placed 
a salad fork and spoon, a dish of salt, or a salt mill, a 
pepper mill, and two cruets, one of oil, the other of vinegar. 
To be perfect the oil should be pure olive, but if that's be- 
yond your budget dilute it witb a tasteless vegetable oil. 
Likewise the vinegar should be a wine vinegar (the word 
vinegar comes from the French vin aigre, sour wine) but that 
won't hurt any pocketbook as wine vinegars are compara- 
tively inexpensive. Herb vinegars may be purchased too, and 
used when fresh herbs are not available. 

Now to the actual dressing of the salad: There's an overly 
I quoted Spanish proverb that says it takes four men to do the 
job . . a spendthrift to add the oil; a miser, the vinegar; 
a wise man to judge the exact amount of salt ; and a madman 
to toss them all together. I'll go along with the first three, 
but that last character will have no part in the mixing of my 
salad . . you'll see why later on. 

But first, resting your salad spoon on top of the greens 
you put in it a saltspoon of salt. (Here's where the "wise- 
man" comes in. The exact amount depends on how much 
salad is being dressed.) A few grains of pepper are ground 
on top of the salt. Now comes the vinegar, added by the 
"miser." It is usually sufficient to fill the spoon but once if the 
salad is a small one. Stir this mixture with the salad fork 
until the salt is at least semi-dissolved, then sprinkle it over 
the salad. This is said to open the pores of the lettuces so 
that they will "breathe" in the oil that is to follow. Three 
or four spoonfuls of it if you have used one spoonful of 
vinegar. If you're really the "spendthrift" you'll use four 
and be glad you did, though the famous salad poem by 
Sydney Smith doesn't agree with me. "Three times the spoon 
with oil of Lucca crown, and once with vinegar, procured 
from town." 

Now for the tossing, and don't take that word "toss" too 

seriously. Actually, it is more of a turning action, using the 

spoon and fork and carefully turning the leaves from the 

bottom to the top of the bowl until each one is completely 

covered with the dressing. No madman wanted here . . better 

the mythical salad-maker who painted each leaf of his salad 

with a camel's hair brush, dipped in French dressing. Now, 

with each lovely green leaf glistening with oil, and with the 

wonderful aroma of olives and of wine arising from the 

| bowl, pass the bowl that each guest may help himself. So 

fjl good your eye, so sure your judgment, there will not be one 

jl drop of excess dressing in the bottom of the bowl ; so per- 

/ feet your salad that there will not be one piece of greenery 

left to be returned to the kitchen. 

Visitors to California usually are impressed by the cus- 
tom of serving salads . . at least in hotels and restaurants . . 
as a first course. The practice has its merits as it gives the 
chef ample time to prepare le specialtie de maison while the 
patron is enjoying the salad, instead of blunting his appe- 
tite on too much bread. Even at home this idea is sometimes 
a good one . . at least for the hostess who is also cook 
and waitress. The salad, arranged on individual plates, may 
be already at the places when the guests are seated. There's 
one course taken care of! No simple salad of mixed greens, 
though. This introductory salad should be a "Compound 
Sallet" such as: 


Allow one medium ripe tomato for each serving. Peel and 
cut into thick slices, reserving the end pieces for other pur- 
poses. Arrange the slices on individual serving plates, garnish 
with a sprig or two of water cress or fresh basil, and cross 
each slice of tomato with a filet of anchovy that has been 
split. Now mix together one tablespoon of olive oil and one 
teaspoon of basil wine vinegar for each serving. Sprinkle 
each tomato slice with oregano which you have crushed be- 
tween your palms, pour on the dressing, and serve. No salt 
or pepper in this recipe . . the anchovy takes care of the first, 
the oregano the second. This should be served Arctic cold, 
so be sure to chill the tomatoes after peeling them or, better 
yel, do it this way: Spear the tomatoes on the end of a 
long fork and hold them over a gas flame until the skin 
splits. Put them in the refrigerator until ready to serve, then 
peel off the skins. 

Summer lunches call for salads and sometimes nothing 
else but, so, if there are husky appetites around, they have 
to have more than a wisp of lettuce. Here is an old friend 
in a new guise. 


For each bunch of lettuce or romaine, hard boil three 
eggs, remove shells and chop. Cook six slices of bacon until 
crisp and crumble it on top of the lettuce which has been 
put in a salad bowl. Add the chopped eggs, and, if your 
afternoon activities allow, some chopped green onions. Now 
sprinkle on a half teaspoon of salt, a few grindings of black 
pepper, two tablespoons of vinegar and the bacon fat. Mix 
tenderly, garnish with slices of hard boiled egg, if you wish, 
and serve with iced tea or milk and with toasted cheese sand- 
wiches. There's a meal of salad that won't be followed by 
such mutterings as "rabbit food" or "Nebuchadnezar!" 

Californians serve salads perhaps most often as an accom- 
paniment to steaks or hamburgers, grilled over charcoal, and 
served in the patio. First choice for that outdoor salad, at 
least currently, seems to be one that's neither simple nor com- 
pound, but rather a combination of the two. This salad has 
at least a dozen different versions . . their kinship lies in 
a coddled egg. Here's one way: 


Cut a loaf of sour dough bread into half-inch cubes and 
brown them in oil that has been flavored with garlic. (If 
you do this with a frying basket you'll save yourself a lot 
of trouble.) Wash, dry. and crisp four heads of romaine 
and break it into a large garlic-rubbed bowl. Add a tea- 
spoon of salt, a goodly amount of coarsely ground black 
pepper, two tablespoons of tarragon vinegar, three-quarters 
of a cup of olive oil, and six filets of anchovies that have 
been cut in small pieces. Mix well, then break in two eggs 
that have been allowed to coddle for one minute. (Put in 
boiling water, turn off heat.) On top of the eggs squeeze 
the juice of one large, or two small lemons. Mix very thor- 
oughly, then add a half cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese 
and mix again. Now add the croutons, give the salad a turn 
or two, and serve it forth. This is a big salad, but I promise 
you it will be eaten in a big way! 

The Doheny Memorial Library, built at a cost of 
$1,000,000, contains more than 350,000 books 


(Continued from page 59) Metheny of the 
physical education department took part in 
General MacArthur's rehabilitation program 
for the Japanese. 

Unique is the Hancock Foundation under 
the direction of its benefactor, Captain Allan 
Hancock, president of the board of trustees. 
Music, cinema, radio and science are its 
fields of endeavor, and the four-story Han- 
cock Building has become a Pacific Coast 
headquarters for marine and biological 
studies. Here, many thousands of rare speci- 
mens are on display, collected on ten expedi- 
tions to the Galapagos Islands and other equa- 
torial waters. The Hancock exploration 
cruiser, Velero III, was taken over by the 
Navy during the war . . and the Velero IV 
has just been christened. 

Musical culture for the campus and the 
community is provided by the Hancock En- 
semble, with the good Captain serving as 
cellist. Their presentations of the masters are 
done under the condition that no fees are 
charged by their hosts, which include schools, 
service organizations and clubs throughout 
the state. In the Hancock Building, too, is 
the radio department, under direction of 
William Sener, attended by 400 students. The 
f.m. station, KUSC, uses the 200-foot tower 
atop the building, and KTRO, the short wave 
station, cooperates in the use of the elaborate 
studio and recording rooms. 

The S. C. College of Aeronautics at Santa 
Maria, north of Santa Barbara, was founded 
by Captain Hancock, a licensed pilot, and 
during its 20 years of operation has trained 
more than 8,000 air cadets. Complete dormi- 
tories, hangars for 100 or more planes, and 
machine shops make this college the largest 
of its kind in the West. Here, the student 
may progress from light training planes to 
P-38s, B-17s or a jet job. 

Unique, too, is the Los Angeles University 
of International Relations at S. C. where stu- 
dents are given background training for dip- 
lomatic service. It ties in with interests of 
the famous Chancellor Rufus B. von Klein- 
Smid, who served as president of the univer- 
sity for 25 years, and who has been given 
high civilian awards from more than a score 
of foreign governments for his support in 
creating goodwill among nations. 

The annual Institute of World Affairs, an 
affiliate of the university, usually is held at 
the Mission Inn in Riverside for more than 
fifty authorities on international relations. 
Here, Dr. von KleinSmid is chancellor, too. 
The university's department of international 
relations last term attracted 251 foreign stu- 
dents, and it's not an uncommon sight on 

campus to see a Chinese girl in native dress 
or a student from India still wearing his tur- 

President of the University today is Dr. 
Fred D. Fagg, Jr., who took over the ad- 
ministration in September, 1947. Dr. Fagg, 
assistant to the dean of the College of Com- 
merce from 1927 to 1929, won his A.B. and 
LL.D. at the University of Redlands, his A.M. 
at Harvard, and a J.D. at Northwestern. A 
lawyer, economist and aviation enthusiast, the 
president served as director of the United 
States Bureau of Air Commerce in '37'38 
and has been a member of numerous national 
aeronautical commissions. 

"Our largest job today," he says, "is to 
sell the next generation and to sell ourselves. 
If the educational institutions of this nation 
can raise a crop of young men and women 
who are willing to do their duties like men, 
the future of this country is secure." 

Naturally there are outstanding alumni 
among the 50,000. Harold J. Stonier is vice- 
president of the American Bankers Associa- 
tion; Hugh Bailey is president of the United 
Press; Lieutenant General Ira Eaker re- 
cently retired from the Army Air Force; Dr. 
Tully C. Knowles is chancellor of the Col- 
lege of the Pacific; Dr. Cloyd H. Marvin, 
president of George Washington University; 
Hallam H. Anderson, national vice-president 
of Shell Oil; Mario Chamlee and Lawrence 
Tibbett of the Metropolitan Opera Co. And 
locally the former Trojans include Mayor 
Fletcher Bowron, County Tax Collector How- 
ard Byram, Sheriff Eugene Biscailuz. 

The university is alma mater to approximate- 
ly 11,000 war veterans. Classes are held in ev- 
ery building, including 26 former Army bar- 
racks, from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. More than 9,000 
attend classes at University College at night. 
Tradition dictates that women will not smoke 
on campus, wear slacks to classes, or recline 
on the campus lawns. 

But . . there are four men for every co-ed ! 


(Continued from page 57) Drs. H. S. Penn 
and S. J. Glass, Los Angeles physicians and 
research associates in zoology, work under his 
program, as does Dr. David Appleman, whose 
research in plant nutrition led him to the 
study of cancer cells. 

The department of bacteriology also co- 
operates with the medical schools here and 
in Berkeley, with the Western Regional Re- 
search Laboratory and other governmental 
agencies exploring the virtues of antibiotics 
which might be of value in combatting tu- 
berculosis and other infectious diseases. Dr. 
Anthony J. Salle, professor of bacteriology, 
is a key figure in this work. 

Another young and progressive organiza- 
tion at U.C.L.A. is the College of Engineer- 
ing, headed by Dean L. M. K. Boelter, who 
came from the Berkeley campus. U.C.L.A. en- 
gineers are engaged in a multitude of research 
projects, many of which are sponsored by or- 
ganizations as widely different in scope as the 
research projects themselves. Tests on struc- 
tural steel, the development of soil stabilizers 
for building landing strips for the Air Force 
and roads for the Army, the improvement of 
fire -fighting equipment for the Forest Service 
. . these are only a few of the studies under 

Exemplifying the modern on-your-toes atti- 
tude of the engineering department is a piece 
of equipment known as the differential an- 
alyzer . . often called "the mechanical brain." 
It is a computing machine which saves un- 
told numbers of man-hours in performing 
mathematical calculations and solves some 
problems which could not be worked out by 
conventional mathematical techniques. There 
are only six such calculators in the U. S. 
The one at U.C.L.A. is kept busy solving 
complicated equations for the aircraft indus- 
try as well as for other interested parties 
with problems too big or too tough for a man 
with a pencil. 

The Institute of Geophysics, one of the 
few such organizations anywhere in the world 

and the only one in the Western United 
States, is an all-university project with head- 
quarters on the Los Angeles campus. Directed 
by Dr. Louis B. Slichter, formerly of M.I.T. 
and the University of Wisconsin, the insti- 
tute was recently formed (1) to study the 
complex problems of the earth's dynamics' 
and (2) to explore the earth for new stores 
of natural resources. It is particularly appro- 
priate and important to California because 
of the abundance here of such natural won- I 
ders as earthquakes, mountain building, 
oceanic phenomena, underground water prob- 
lems, oil, minerals, and varied climate char- ( 
acteristics that include rapid temperature and 
moisture changes within limited local areas. | 

Special weather investigations conducted by 
the institute should be of great benefit to 
agriculturists. The institute's potential im- 
portance to the state at large has been rec- 
ognized by the formation of a special coun- 
cil composed of mining, industry and re- 
search leaders who advise the institute of spe- i 
cific possibilities for service. 

The fast-growing theater arts department ( 
on the Los Angeles campus, headed by Ken- 
neth Macgowan, former Paramount producer I 
of such hit movies as "Lifeboat" and "Little 
Women," offers sound training in the arts 
of stage and screen, and soon will add radio 
to its curriculum. 

Organized to combine strong liberal arts I 
academic requirements with stage training, 
the theater arts department aims at more 
than a quick turning-out of actors. The school j 
has been hailed by such respected profes- 
sional actors as Charles Coburn as one of 
the very few which offer a thorough ground- i 
ing in the great traditions of the theater, j 

A new laboratory containing full facilities 
for making movies is now in use by the mo- 
tion picture division of the department, un- 
der direction of John Ross Winnie. Hollywood 
professionals with experience in all phases 
of production assist Mr. Winnie. The theater 
division, under Ralph Freud, uses the facili- , 
ties in Royce Hall which include an experi- 
mental theater equipped for central staging. I 

Unique among college courses, the curricu- 
lum in apparel design and merchandising on 
the Los Angeles campus was made a part I 
of the College of Applied Arts in the fall 
of 1945 at the request of the California ap- | 
parel industry and the California State Re- 
construction and Reemployment Commission. 

The curriculum was designed and set up 
after consultations between university officials 
and representatives of the apparel industry 
to provide a broad academic and cultural 
background with specialization in clothing 
designing and merchandising. Close coopera- 
tion between the university and the California 
apparel industry, recognized leader in the 
sportswear field, provide students of the four- 
year course with excellent opportunities in a 
growing industry. 

Important work in the analysis of motion 
pictures and radio as a means of mass com- 
munication and propaganda has been done 
in the department of psychology by Dr. 
Franklin Fearing. Dr. Grace Fernald has de- 
veloped special methods of re-learning for 
children and adults who have difficulty with 
reading, and has conducted research in the 
application of clinical methods to the physical- 
ly handicapped and mentally and socially 
maladjusted. Other projects being carried on 
in the department are researches in color 
blindness and stammering, their possible 
cures, and psychological aspects of the use 
of prosthetics by amputees. 

The College of Business Administration, 
headed by Dean Neil H. Jacoby, formerly 
of the University of Chicago, offers special- 
ized training and sponsors meetings of out- 
standing groups of business administrators. 
The Investment Bankers Association, the 
Southern California Management Conference 
and the American Association of Advertis- 
ing Agencies are some of the organizations 
which have actively participated in the col- 
lege programs. 

U.C.L.A.'s School of Education has directed 
the training and development of nearly 12,000 
teachers and administrators for California's 
system of public instruction, ranging from 


kindergarten to junior college. Dean is Dr. 
Edwin A. Lee, an educator with a distin- 
guished record of achievement. In the de- 
partment of geology, Dr. James Gilluly and 
Dr. U. S. Grant conduct research in earth 
problems, and during the war trained at 
least a score of geologists who performed 
outstanding service in discovering and de- 
Iveloping supplies of minerals in which the 
nation was deficient. 

The University of Calfornia at Los Angeles 
library, one of the fastest-growing book col- 
lections in the United States, is under the 
leadership of Lawrence Clark Powell and has 
created a music library valued at S500.000. 
The collection contains more than 8,000 
scores and parts for operas, symphonies, 
suites, concertos, folk songs, band numbers, 
etc, and serves many motion picture, radio 
and symphonic orchestras in Southern Cali- 
fornia. The library itself has become one of 
the major university research and teaching 
libraries in the country and serves the de- 
mands of the fast-growing and culturally 
vigorous Los Angeles area. 

The old axiom, "the greatest university is 
not built of bricks and stone . . but of men," 
is still true. U.C.L.A.'s reputation gains added 
luster from the service rendered the com- 
munity by its growing company of distin- 
guished scholars, educators and scientists. 

The Dinosaur Fight 

(Continued from page 52) "My car is out- 
side," Oswald said challengingly, walking 
over to the door and holding it open. "I 
wouldn't wear your green hat if I were you 
. . he's a plant feeder." 

I sudied Oswald carefully as we made the 
turn onto Wilshire and headed for Hancock 
Park. His jaw was frozen in a half grin. Alas, 
poor Oswald! Love had unzippered his mind 
and now we were out looking for dinosaurs in 
the middle of crowded Los Angeles. The least 
I could do, I thought, was humor him this once 
and then spirit him off to a psychiatrist first 
thing in the morning. 

The bright moon cast an eerie green over 
Hancock Park as we stepped over a small 
chain guarding the entrance. Once inside the 
wall of bushes surrounding the park, we made 
our way along the small winding dirt path. 
The blur of traffic headlights and neon signs 
on the boulevard close by served as strange 
contrast to the peaceful moonlit park. 

Oswald led me straight to the small lake. 
An occasional gas bubble struggled through 
the liquid tar bottom and broke on the surface 
of the water. Oswald pointed to the dark 
shadows beneath the blue gum trees across 
the lake. 

"I can't see very well with these new 
glasses," Oswald whispered. "Do you see 
anything unusual over there?" 

"Nothing but trees, I hope!" I said, 
straining my eyes. 

"He was standing over there last night," 
Oswald said quietly, "tearing up plants by 
the roots and tossing them down his giant 

I started chuckling. You can't muzzle a 
sense of humor forever. 

Oswald glared at me disgustedly. As we 
walked around the park he was scarcely aware 
of my presence. Desperately clinging to the 
briefcase he had carried along with him, 
Oswald scanned the surrounding treetops like 
a hungry water crane. 

We were standing at pit number ten now. 
"Look, Oswald," I said, pointing to the des- 
criptive placard nailed to the wooden post. 
"This is where they found our very dear old 
friend, the saber tooth tiger. A couple 
hundred of them dug up from this spot alone." 

"That was practically yesterday . . a mere 
500,000 years ago!" Oswald grunted dis- 

I listened quietly to the gurgling sound of 
bubbles surfacing on the liquid tar pit. 
Oswald's scientific mind had years past gone 
into the convent of the Mesozoic Age. He 
refused to be more than lightly concerned with 

any species originating less than a million 
years ago. 

The gurgling sound seemed even closer now. 
Turning about swiftly, I stood there with 
shocked expression. Oswald, the man who has 
never taken a drink stronger than limeade in 
his life, was tipping a large black bottle to his 
lips. He jumped guiltily as I wheeled about, 
and quickly stuffed the bottle back into the 

"That's all I want to know," I said dis- 
gustedly, starting to walk away. 

Oswald was performing a lot of "firsts" that 
evening. He started bawling in a most flagrant 
manner. Reluctantly, I was compelled to sit 
on the brick guard wall of the pit and discuss 
Unrequited Love, its causes and after effects. 
Oswald unzippered the black briefcase and 
lifted the uncorked bottle toward the moon- 
lit sky. 

"To a lost cause!" Oswald sighed, flourish- 
ing the bottle as though it were a champagne 
glass. He drank deeply and extended the 
bottle in my direction, his expression inti- 
mating the toast would not be official unless 
I took part in the sorrowful ceremonies. 

Thin, purple streaks of false dawn were 
edging the horizon as we headed back toward 
the park gate. The traffic noise on Wilshire 
had dissolved into the lone chirping of a park 
cricket. A dozen yards from the gate entrance, 
Oswald tapped me on the shoulder. "Aren't 
you going to wave goodbye to our pal Bronto?" 

"Bronto who?" I said, turning around. 

"Good old Brontosaurus Excelsus, the dino- 
saur," Oswald said. "That's not a fox terrier 
you see scratching his back over by pit ten." 

Looking in the direction of Oswald's point- 
ing finger, I could see a colossal reptile head 
darting nervously from side to side against 
the pale yellow moon. The giant stovepipe 
neck towered high over the treetops. It was 
walking now and it was as though half the 
bushes on the horizon had suddenly started 
movine. When a clearing had been reached 
I could see the four pillar-like limbs supnort- 
ing an enormous arching back that must have 
weighed forty tons. 

"He's coming over to say goodbye now," 
Oswald said. 

"Tell him I've gone!" 

"Ah, ah!" Oswald remonstrated, yanking 
me back by the coat tail. "He's as harmless 
as a kitten. . . . Brontosauruses like to gorge 
themselves on plants and grass." 

My adam's apple was going down for the 
fourth time. "How long has he been over 
there?" I whispered with what was left of 
my voice. 

"He was grazing behind you when we were 
at the pit," Oswald said. "I didn't mention it 
... I don't see how you could have missed 

What happened next caused my knees to 
tremble. The mighty dinosaur trumpeted, the 
blast echoing from Burbank to Terminal 
Island. Great soaring buzzards were fanning 
the air directly over the dinosaur's head. 

A sinister looking tan cat the size of a horse 
was crouching behind a nearby boulder. I 
grabbed Oswald and pointed excitedly! 
"Look! A live saber tooth!" 

"The bushes over there are lousy with them," 
Oswald said. "They're waiting for old Bronto 
to stick his tootsies in that goo pool." 

"Let's get out of here while we're still alive!" 
I pleaded. The buzzards had learned to keep 
a respectable distance from the dinosaur now. 
Bronto was lumbering slowly in our direction, 
stopping now and then to uproot a small bush 
and gulp it down his massive throat without 

"Were you aware that dinosaurs keep round 
boulders in their stomachs to help digest 
food?" Oswald asked cooly, refusing the 
while to budge an inch from where he was 

"I have no intention of finding out!" I said, 
crawling on my hands and knees toward the 
gateway. Several yards ahead I stopped cold 
in my tracks. A huge reptile head curving 
downward from the sky blocked my path, re- 
garding me silently with dull, blinking eyes. 

Jolly fellow . . Ham- 
mer Schmidt . . is the 
author of this terrify- 
ing piece, based on his 
visits to the famous La 
Brea Tar Pits under 
the glare of the noon- 
day sun. He declares 
that he often awakes 
at night to the agoniz- 
ing cries of saber- 
tooth tigers and the 
trumpeting of Imperial 
elephants. But then, 
he continues, it could 
be the noise of the 

traffic on Wilshire Boulevard. Hammer likes 
animals. He collaborated with Ogden Nash 
on a gay book called "Stag At Eve." 

I felt Oswald's bony fingers poking my 
shoulders warningly. "I wouldn't crawl if I 
were you ... he is thinking possibly that you 
are a water beetle." 

One frightened broad jump landed me 
behind a massive tree trunk where Oswald 
stood. Pulling a small steel mallet out of his 
briefcase, Oswald started tapping the tree 
trunk like a woodpecker. "I want to see how 
Bronto's reflexes are, if any!" 

I noticed the thick scales on the trunk when 
it lifted itself high in the air and walked 
away. The huge, bony tail, grinding brush 
and pebbles in its wake, slithered past and 
twitched momentarily, knocking both of us 
over like tumbling kittens. 

When I recovered seconds later, the dinosaur 
was muzzling Oswald along like a cat playing 
with a wounded mouse. Oswald jumped up 
and performed a startling feat. Leaping over 
the snout of the dinosaur, Oswald scurried up 
the long leathery neck until he reached the 
animal's mountainous back, and then perched 
there in cowboy fashion. Bronto continued to 
graze on bushes as though Oswald were a 
clinging gnat. Suddenly the dinosaur bellowed 
and raised on his hind haunches. 

Shouting for help as I ran out of the park, I 
could see Oswald hanging desperately to the 
bucking dinosaur's neck. He still had the 
probing mallet in his free hand, busily testing 
the reflexes of each vertebrae in the giant's 

Oswald was shouting something at me glee- 
fully. Just then the upper part of the dinosaur 
shuddered momentarily and like a tremendous 
mountain slide, plummeted downward, fol- 
lowed by the sickening sound of forty tons of 
dinosaur crashing to the earth. 

A police prowl car turned sharply off Wil- 
shire and pulled up in front of the park with 
screeching brakes. Detectives swarmed out of 
the car before it had come to a complete stop. 
"In here! In here!" I shouted, leading the 
way back into the park. "Dinosaurs!" 

Inside the park I was dumbfounded at the 
lone sight of Oswald lying at the brink of the 
tar pool, staring into it blankly. He answered 
my silent question by merely pointing morosely 
to large air blisters seeping upward through 
the liquid asphalt. 

A certain amount of skepticism prevailed 
the following day when we explained our dis- 
covery to the magistrate down at City Hall. 
And you'd think those old fossils, the Board 
of Supervisors at the museum, would back 
up their employees in a discovery of this 
magnitude! What happened amounted to a 
complete betrayal of faith between employee 
and employer. Oswald and I were forced to 
take a month's vacation on the grounds that 
we had been working too hard lately and were 
in need of complete rest. 

Now that I review the events leading up to 
the dinosaur's appearance, I am certain that 
Oswald and I were not victims of hallucina- 
tions brought on by the bourbon fumes. Be- 
cause people who experience said illusions 
claim faithfully that animals therein range 
from snakes to elephants of varying shades 
of red. No one, to my knowledge, has ever 
reported grappling with a dinosaur while under 
the influence of the grape. 




ere they are, madamel Here is a supplemental 
list of stores . . and we hope they're convenient to 
you . . that carry most of the smart, new fashions 
we've shown in this issue. The nearest store listed 
will be happy to fill your mail order, or you may 
write to The Californian if you so desire. 

Page 30 — Saba of California's three-piecer is avail- 
able at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Yearing's, 
Austin; C. H. Yeager Co., Akron. Junior Miss of 
California corduroy wardrobe at Nancy's, Holly- 
wood; Younkers, Des Moines; Kerr's, Oklahoma City; 
J. L. Brandeis, Omaha; Miller Bros., Chattanooga. 

Page 31 — Madalyn Miller's rayon plaid at Lucille's, 
Westwood Village; Maas Bros., Tampa; Davidson's, 
Miami; Bertha Cooke, Tallahassee. Marjorie Mont- 
gomery's gabardine suit at Bullock's-Wilshire, Los 
Angeles; Lanz of California, Los Angeles and San 
Francisco; Miller Bros., Cleveland; Mademoiselle, 
Sacramento; Beverly Dress Shop, San Anfonio. 

Page 32 — Lanz of California gabardine jumper at Lanz 
stores in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle. 

Page 33 — Viola Dimmit gabardine raincoat also at I. 
Magnin, Los Angeles and San Francisco; Neiman- 
Marcus, Dallas. Alice of California's striped cot- 
ton also at Yeilding Bros., Birmingham; Higgin- 
botham Bros., Comanche, Texas; The Paris Co., Salt 
Lake City; Dorel's, Berkeley; Island City Dress 
Shop, Alameda; Dorothy's, Livingston, Calif.; Al- 
bert's, Inc., San Rafael; Gertrude Mingea, Chicago; 
People's Store, Safford, Ariz.; Granger's, Emporia, 
Kan.; Sea bright Dress Shop, San Francisco; The 
Corals, Guam; Economy Store, Hayward, Calif.; 
H. E. Johnson, Wickenburg; The Toggery, Manteca, 
Calif., Bishop Variety Shop, Oceanlake, Ore.; The 
Stylist, Auburn, Wash. 

Page 34 — Lynn Lester rayon gabardine classic at Hag- 
garty's, Los Angeles; Wm. H. Block Co., In- 
dianapolis; Frick's, Pasadena. 

Page 35 — Barney Max three-piece outfit at D. H. 
Holmes, New Orleans; Sakowitz Bros., Houston; A. 


Harris, Dallas. Hollywood Premiere's rayon gabar- 
dine suit at Gude's, Los Angeles; Charles Stevens, 

Page 37 — Hollywood Premiere coordinates also at stores 
listed on page 15; a good-sized list, and there's 
probably one near you. 

Page 41 — Zolot of California three-piece suit also at 
Gude's, Los Angeles; Bon Marche, Sacramento; Gar- 
finckle, Washington, D. C; Nancy's, Hollywood; 
Liebes, San Francisco; Kerr's, Oklahoma City; Dal- 
ton Co., Baton Rouge. Mitchell and Hoffman wool 
jersey also at Higbee's, Cleveland. Lanz of Cali- 
fornia polka dot jersey with apron available at 
Lanz in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle. 

Page 42 — Andree Gay's black satin and blouse at 
Ann's and Gold's, Los Angeles; Peggy Shop, San 
Francisco; Bess Blair, Bakersfield; Smart Shop, Comp- 
ton; Renee's, Santa Monica; Jay's Dress Shop, 
Sonora. Franc ine Frocks' rustling taffeta at Ballard 
& Brotkett, San Diego. Linsk of California two- 
piece crepe at Bullock's, Los Angeles. 

Page 43 — Glamour Time dress at Haggarty's, Los An- 
geles; Ann's Shop and Peggy Shop, San Francisco. 

Page 45 — Emma Domb taffeta formal also at Emery- 
Bird-Thayer, Kansas City; Miller & Paine, Lincoln; 
Abraham & Strauss, Brooklyn; L. S. Donaldson, 
Minneapolis; The Hecht Co., Washington, D. C; 
Denver Dry Goods, Denver; Meier & Frank, Portland; 
Einbender's, St. Joseph; Home's, Dayton; Schune- 
man's, St. Paul; J. N. Adams Co., Buffalo. Cole 
of California creation at D. H. Holmes, New Or* 
leans; Allen Abbes, Miami. 

Page 53 — Irving Schechter suit available at Bullock's- 
Wilshire, Los Angeles; Ralph Rupley, Houston; John- 
son Dress Shop, Fort Worth; Dunlap Co., Vic- 
toria, Texas; Mildred Moore, Beverly Hills; Parson's, 
Tulsa; H. Liebes, San Francisco; Carroll's, Boise; 
Carman's, Omaha; Charlotte Shop, Oxnard; Levee's, 
Vallejo; Bernard's, Spokane; Elwood's, Oakland; Lil- 
lian's, Long Beach, Calif.; Gladys Tevis, Santa 
Barbara; H. C. Capwell, Oakland. 


(Continued from page 63) San Francisco and 
the off-league baseball which is all we have 
on the coast. In that perilous bottom year 
Strub, who had been wiped out and put in 
debt by the crash of '29, performed a prodi- 
gious feat of money-raising and founded 
Santa Anita. It was an immediate success. 
Today Charlie Strub is lord of a magnificent 
clipped and irrigated domain. Today Charlie 
Strub packs in hundreds of thousands from 
booming Los Angeles, and Santa Anita is 
known like the palms of their hands to 
bookmakers throughout the land. And today 
Charlie Strub — twelve years a dentist, fifteen 
years a ball club owner, fifteen years a race- 
course operator — is ready for another sea- 

Los Angeles is waiting for destiny, too. 
Destiny has already arrived, according to Ru- 
dolph Friml, the romantic Viennese with a 
Hollywood address. Friml airily announced 
when he returned on a boat recently that Los 
Angeles was already the music capital of 
the world and that it has surpassed Vienna 
in its palmiest days, even if it hasn't a 
Strauss. Edwin Lester, producer of musical 
comedies for the Los Angeles Civic Light 
Opera Association, is equally certain of des- 
tiny. The world premiere of his Magdalena — 
which hit a new high in production cost at 
8250,000— opened July 26 at the Philharmonic 
Auditorium. It is one in a series of progres- 
sively more lavish musical extravaganzas. All 
the signs seem to point to a new and higher 
musical destiny's being just around the cor- 

Parenthetically it should be noted why 
it is not particularly newsworthy — or at 
least not magazine worthy — that Los An- 
geles is starting to build the world's great- 
est auditorium, complete with subterranean 
parking space for 5000 cars. This is the 
Los Angeles the world is well aware of; the 
rabble whose interests are confined to bread 
and circuses, the city whose brassy soul is 
expressed in the glittering banalities of Hol- 
lywood. But to identify the city with great 
music or at the pinnacle of the arts or as a 
Vienna reincarnate on this Pacific slope — 

that's something else again. 

However, these doubts about the gawky, 
sprawling city are confined to a certain very 
bookish minority. The people who like to talk 
and intellectualize and spin theories about 
Los Angeles are painfully aware that the city 
is no center of culture and refinement. But 
none of these doubts trouble the sleep of a 
Doc Strub, who tailors his shows to the audi- 
ence as he finds it; or of a P. G. Winnett, 
who began metering yardgoods to Los An- 
geles in 1896 and has been at it ever since; 
or of Harvey Mudd, the miner whose OK is 
persuasive in the financial community. The 
doers of Los Angeles think opera is a good 
bet. And, having made this decision, they 
propose to put opera on its feet. All the 
other considerations are brushed aside, even 
the occasional argument that, in a century 
of trial, grand opera has never been on a 
paying basis. 

Possibly opera lovers, if they'd had their 
way, would not have chosen Doc Strub, the 
horse-race man, as the instrument of remak- 
ing musical Los Angeles. He is certainly the 
complete antithesis of Vienna's Emperor Franz- 
Josef, the magnificent. Doc Strub is raw, 
western and direct. And it was possibly smart 
of the Met chairman, George Sloan of New 
York, to suggest including Los Angeles in 
the corporate name of the leading American 
opera. But when it comes right down to 
horse-trading we'll bet on Doc Strub. We'll 
bet that the next time he gets the New Yorkers 
in a smoke-filled room Los Angeles will come 
out known as the home of the world's finest 
opera company. Destiny is playing right into 
Doc's hands. And destiny operates in strange 
ways. It was perverse destiny that raised an 
"uncouth barge captain" named Cornelius 
Vanderbilt — whose most famous printable 
statement was "the public be damned!" — to 
found high society in New York. Today des- 
tiny is playing another trick. But possibly 
in another generation, when we are all aware 
of the debt musical America owes Doc Strub, 
it won't seem quite so strange that he is 
known today only as the man who makes the 
pari-mutuels tick. 




(Continued from page 62) The basketball 
player generally regarded as the greatest of 
all time is an ex-Stanford star from out of 
a San Francisco high school, Angelo "Hank" 

Speaking of San Francisco Italians, like 
Hank Luisetti, the natural transition is to 
baseball. And one wonders where else in this 
country, in a comparable geographical en- 
tity, has there been a producing-ground for 
big-league stars to compare with San Fran- 
cisco's North Beach: its three DiMaggios, 
headed by the nonpareil Yankee Clipper, Joe; 
Crosetti, Lazzerri, Gomez, and dozens of oth- 
ers? If there IS such comparable breeding- 
grounds, then it might be a schoolboy play- 
ground on the south side of Los Angeles 
called Manchester. From this playground 
sprang Mickey Owen, Steve Mesner, Bobby 
Doerr, Lou Stringer, George Myatt, George 
McDonald, George Metkovich, Gene Mauch, 
Nippy Jones, and many another major league 

Of the top-drawer names in baseball, Cali- 
fornia claims Ted Williams and Joe DiMaggio; 
and the latest two raves, the hurler Black- 
well and the slugger Kiner, are both natives 
of the outskirts of Greater Los Angeles. It 
is too bad Bob Feller's Van Meter is in 
Iowa, but then there are many citizens of 
Long Beach, which is Iowa on the Pacific, 
who claim Feller, too. 

If California didn't send 'em up, California 
gets 'em when they come down, or when they 
retire. Ty Cobb has been with us so long we 
are inclined to forget that he went up to the 
Big Time from Georgia. At least, we have 
him now. 

So many Californians, in fact, have gone up 
to major league baseball that, at the moment, 
the brass hats of the Pacific Coast League 
are waging a strenuous fight for recognition 
as a third major league. 

"Pants" Rowland, the Coast League presi- 
dent, is telling all who will listen that if the 
baseball draft-law were rescinded so that the 
West Coast could keep its baseball products 
instead of sending them on up to the Na- 
tional or American League, then in no time 
at all the Coast League would be of equal 
caliber, and major league recognition would 
be automatic. 

However, baseball law being what it is, it 
is likely that such recognition is a good dis- 
tance off. Still, there are others who say major 
league baseball will come to California in a 
different way: that one of the present major 
league franchises will simply move to Los 
Angeles or San Francisco. This is what hap- 
pened in professional football, and is as in- 
exorable as the tides for baseball also, ac- 
cording to those who know how avidly base- 
ball men follow the dollar — and considering 
how many dollars are coming West. 

When we asked Babe Ruth about this mo- 
mentous question, we found him a bit cynical 
in the matter. "When do you expect major 
league baseball to be played on the West 
Coast?" we asked him. 

"When will they play it in the East?" he 

Within the confines of this space, it is, of 
course, not possible to list the many California 
champions: the handball champion of the 
United States, for example, Gus Lewis, is 
from the Hollywood Athletic Club; the great- 
est women's swimmer of all time, Ann Curtis, 
is from San Francisco's Crystal Plunge; the 
world's greatest badminton player, Dave Free- 
man, is a Southern Californian; and the list 
extends indefinitely. 

Now, if the defense attorney will promise 
not to mention football and the Rose Bowl 
games of '46, '47, and '48, the plaintiff rests. 

It's siesta time, and you can bring my 
orange juice out to the sun-drenched patio. 




B R A 

America's most asked- for brassiere 

—and most imitated, too! But only the original California designed V-ette* gives 

you the genuine patented continuous Whirlpool* stitching— row after roiv of it— 

for faultless support, for perfect separation. Curves you up, round, out— continues to mold 

you after countless laundcrings. For between-size contours, ask for Holly-ette Whirlpool* . 

Many choice fabrics in A B and C cups, $3 to $5 at fine stores everywhere. 

Hollywood-Maxwell Company, 6773 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, California. 



painting by Sen Stahl 

you 11 never know until 

wear a Rosenolum 

the beautiful way it m) 

the way it holds its si 

ana its press . . . all bea 

top-of-tne-craft man-tm 

follow every Jxosenblum 

every step even to the M 

picked edges. lJiis marvi 

new Jtiosenblum suit 

JDirectoire collar. . . in su 

100 c /'o virgin wool fabr 

covert 35.00 . . . gabai 

49.95 . . . wonderful a 

wonderful values . . . 

10 to 20 . . . at fine st 

Jxosenblum, JLos Aw 

MAN -tailored in C a lifornia 




* » 






C O LO R S in Hoffman's 

great, new development.,, 

suiting, coating and dress-weight 

woolens color-coordinated in lush 

Gold Rush Centennial shades. 

100% virgin wool . . . mixable, 

matchable, easy to sew, 

Exclusive at one fine store in most 

cities or write for free sample 

folder. Get "California- 

by-the-yard" today! 


C-arsons new way with the jjurl-one-knit-two routine. bold strokes down 
the sleeves, iront and pockets oi this labak-si§ned dress tailored in California. In Dan Rivers 
new Nailhead menswear sharkskin. Black with gold, blue with navy. Sizes 10 to 18. 22. 95 

■ CASUAL CLOTHES, fourth floor. 




THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 


Perfume: The ounce — $18.50* — other sizes lo $5.00* 
Cologne: $2.75 to $8.50* 'plus ;ax. 

THE CAL1FORNIAN, September, 194 


(In honor of California s Centennial) 

A hundred years ago the ox trains rolled 
Over all trails into the land of gold 

Poor men who empty traasuries would fill. 
Rich men who would be even richer still. 
Women with courage for harsh enterprise, 
Children with searching wonder in their eyes, 
Patient-eyed cattle with no other aim 
Than serve the master till he staked his claim. 





ON THE COVER: Strike it rick 
in color with a high-riding, notch- 
front skirt of specially woven wool 
plaid in California Centennial hues. 
Contrasting blouse in Shirley's Mars 
gabardine has gold nugget buttons. 
By Lynn Lester, sizes 10 to 18, 
about $30 at Nancy's, Hollywood; 
Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis; Youn- 
kers, Des Moines. 

Gone is the mining camp, the frontier store. 
The covered wagon roams the trails no more. 
Stilled is the campfire song, the frontier fun. 
Once richly laden lodes are spent and done. 
A hundred years — what have they wrought? Behold 
What these men started with their search for gold. 
Who knows what from our questing now may spring. 
Or help another hundred years to bring? 














MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson 


FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 

FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary 

Alice Stiffler 
Edie Jones 
Malcolm Steinlauf 
Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Frances Anderson 

Alice Carey 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

"*' Morris Ovsey 

John Grandjean 
Ann Harris 



FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 

PRODUCTION Daniel Saxon 

California gold rush fashions 

Gold Rush 34 

Wild and Woolly 35 

The Rush Is On 36 

Nugget Gold 38 

Discovery Red 39 

Sierra Green 40 

A Hat For A Head, by Virginia Scallon 42 

Demurely Nostalgic 44 

Siren Sweet ■. 45 

Spirit of '49 50 

Yesterday's Inspiration 52 

Gambler's Vest .... 53 

Check Your Choice 55 

What To Wear in California in September 57 

The Fashion of Irene 60 

The Fashion of Adrian 61 

Patterned For You 62 

Controlling The Form Divine 64 

What's New in Men's Fashions 68 

California gold rush features 

In The Crucible of California . . Gold and Printer's Ink 28 

California Gold Brought Promise to Many 32 

In California It's 41 

The Quality of Change, by Kenneth Ross 54 

Books and Music 56 

Two Ladies In a Man's Land, by Glenn Dumke 58 

California living 

A House With The Freedom of Easy Living 46 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 66 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager, 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave.. LOngacre 4-02+7; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Nedom L. Angier, Jr., 
Ill W. Jackson Blvd., WAbash 9705; Detroit Office, C. Frank Holstein, 2970 West 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7; Seattle Office., J. Allen Mades, 209 
Seneca, Eliott 5919. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; $5.00 two years; $7.50 three 
years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United States. 35c per 
copy. Entered as second class matter Januarv 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, 
California, under act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 194S The Californian, Inc. Printed 
in U.S. A, Reproduction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized. 



Accessory Shop, Ackley Uniform Co., Adler & Childs, Alberts, Alton- 
Gately, Ann's Shop — Wewoka, Apothecary Shop, Arlene's — Decatur, 
Aycock's, Samuel Bairn & Sons, Balta Dress Shop, Belk-Jones, Bellmak's, 
Bernard Dress Shop, Betty Co-ed, J. H. Bigger & Son, Black & White 
Stores, Boaz Dry Goods, A. L. Bogatto, Bon Marche, Boston Store, 
C. O. Bowen & Co., Bradley's, Ellis Braud's Sons, Broadway Dept. Store, 
Malcolm Brock & Co., Bruten & Owens, Bryant-Link, Buck Store Company, 
Byron's, California Apparel Shops, Camille Hosiery, Camp Hood Exchange, 
Cinderella Shop, Cobb's Dept. Stores, Collegiate Shoppe, Cornell's, 
Cotton Shops, Cox Style Shops, R. E. Cox & Co., Croney's, Cummings 
& Co., Dean's Dept. Store, Deverst's, Diamond Dry Goods, Diamonds — 
St. Louis, Dotty Shops, Dowdy's Dept. Store, Drivers Shoppe, Dun lap 
Dept. Stores, J. L. Durbin, Eastern-Columbia, Eastern Stores, Eleanor's 
of Covina, Elias & Son, Sam Ellis, El Paso Chain Store, El Raye Shop, 
Emporium, Famous — Antioch, Famous Dept. Stores, Famous Barr Co., 
Fashion Shop, Fern's Fashion, Fields, Fitzpatrick's, Florence — Placerville, '2 
Franklin Stores, Frederick & Nelson, Gay Shops of California, George's, 
Gideon-Anderson Dept. Store, A. S. Gilbert, H. J. Gingles, Globe Dept. 
Store, Gloria Shops, O. F. Godfrey, Gold's Dept. Store, Golden State 
Dept. Store, Good Luck Store, Grace's Style Shop, Robert L. Groff, Inc., 
Rose Gusstn Shop, Halle Bras., Harris Co., Hart's Dept. Store, Charles H. 
Hebert, Herzmarks, Higgins Corset Shop, Hollywood 5tyle Shops, Ideal 
Shop, Irene's of Oxnard, Irvings — San Antonio, Jan & Frans, Jay Lane 
Shop, Jelleffs, Joan Shop, Jo-Anns, Joa-Rose Shop, Johnsons — 
El Centro, Kahns — Oakland, Kanners Corset Shop, Kimberlins 
Dept. Store, Kolberts Corset Shop, La Belle Fashion Shop, Ladies 
Shop, Lambert's, La Mode, Lane's, Langston Co., F. & R. Lazarus 
Co., Leader Store, Lee Shops, Inc., Leonard's, Levine & Miller, 
Linda Vista Dept. Store, Little Fashion Shops, Loeb's, Lord's, 
Lucille's, Luftenburg's, Macy's, Mademoiselle Shop, Maher's 
Ready-To-Wear, Marie's, Mary Fay Shop, May Co., Mayfa 
Shops, Melroy's, Miller Mercantile Co., Milliron's, 
Minelle's Lingerie, Mirror Shops, Model Shops, William 
Morris Co., Nelson's, Newell's Apparel, Normalee Shops, 
Oakland Toggery, A. J. Olsen Co., 
Palais Royal, Paris Co., Pattens, 
Pauline Style Shops, Payzant's, 
Perkins Bros. Co., Pinky's, Per- 
sonality Shops, Portis Mercantile 
Co., Price's, Randolph House, A. 
Rashfi, Remar's, L. G. Richardson, 
Ronny's, Ronzone's, Rose Fashion 
Shop, Roselyn Shop, Rosenthal's, 
Rozier Mercantile Co., Rubenstein's, 
Ruth's, Saffee's, Salle Ann Shops, 
Inc., Sally Shops of Calif., San- 
fred's, C. C. Scott, Sears Roebuck 
& Co., Inc., Sam Shainberg Dry 
Goods, Sherman Bros. Dry Goods 
Co., Shipper's Style Shop, Smart 
Shop, Sokol's, Southern Stores, 
Stanley's, Sterneck's, Stockton Dry 
Goods Co., Stork Shop, S. M. 
Strugo, Sunny Shops, Sherwood 
Swan & Co., Ltd., Swelldom, Inc., 
Town Shop, Tranfs Dress Shop, 
Trude's Cotton Shop, Universal 
Shop, Vade's, Vanity Shop, Vo- 
dene's. Vogue, Wall's Dept. Store, 
Ware Company, Watt's Ladies Store, 
Weills, Weinstein Co., Inc., West- 
ern Dry Goods, Whitney's, Wil- 
son's, Windsor Sport Shop, Won- 
der, Inc., Woodruff Ready-to-Wear, 
Wyona's, Yarbro's, Yearwood's, 
Younker Bros., Zuckers Corset Shop. 

860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

1 3 1 1 , — ■ 



% *■■ '< 


11 1 1 f 

► *"* . *i 


I 1111 



THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

Our exclusive Botany gabardine coat, design- 
ed by YablokofT for Kay Saks of California 
. . a "completely dressed" coat . . double 
breasted to cover entirely what you wear be- 
neath it . . a svelte dressmaker silhouette, 
faultlessly tailored in wonderful Travel Tones 


San Mateo, San Francisco, Vallejo 

San Francisco 

Thursday Store Hours 

1 1:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. 

Coat Salon, Third Floor 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 194 1 










Designed expressly for 

In supple wool crepe with matching grosgrain bands. In charcoal, taupe, forest green, 

electric Hue and flame. Sizes 10—20. At $40.00 
Mall orders to Neat's of California, 19 Arlington St., Jjoston 16, Massachusetts 

Jclease specify second color choice 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 194! 

One Woman s JLdea ol 
Otorekeepmg . 

One woman's dream — thought-about, planned-about for 
years. A woman's hope that has now become a reality ... a shop 
actually more like a friendly living room than a shop. An 
intimate, Early American setting — far removed from the hustle- 
bustle of today's city shopping. A lounge room and patio, 
too, where you may relax over a refreshing cup of coffee. An 
informal living room, really, where you're completely at home if 
you're just browsing around ... or where you're certain to find, 
if seeking the unusual, a wide collection of sophisticated 
fashion accessories and gifts. A shop to put on the "Must-See" 
list — when you're entertaining out-of-town friends in Los Angeles. 

LOUELLA BALLERINO'S latest creation . . an inspired shawl 
and skirt combination of superb 100% woolen . . in a multi- 
color stripe with choice of brown or black predominating. 
Four-gored skirt with very essential pockets, fascinator type 
shawl . . both shawl and skirt hem banded in bright yarn 

braid. Sizes 10 to 18 $19.95 


Residents of California please add 2V;% state sales tax, 3% 
Los Angeles. 

.Personal fashion Accessories 


Buff urns' 



"?£.en Scct&erteutd & rayon gabardine casual. Note 
the hand-picked detail on the new off-the-shoulder 
yoke and down the slim-hipped skirt. Deep, deep 
armholes, and buttons down the back are new. 
Sherwood green, smoke grey, taupe, bright red and 
beige. Sizes 10 to 18, $35 

MAIL ORDERS Add 2'A% State Sales Tax 

*Reg. U. S. Pol. Off. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 



uzfts that bring sunny 
yjalifornia to you! 

MING TREE. Exquisite decorative piece for your 
table or what-not shelf. Ming tree and tiny 
ceramic figurine, fixed in bed of sand — all ar- 
ranged in shallow ceramic tray shaped like the 
outline of state of California. Gift boxea*. $1.95, 

COPPER EARRINGS. Non-tarnishable copper in a 
pair of very Western earrings, shaped like a 
pair of belt buckles. Something really new in 
costume jewelry. $2.35, postpaid, includes Federal 
excise tax. 

STAND-O-LAMP. Make your own lamp by as- 
sembling your 
^ favorite vase and 

shade, affixing 
them to this 
handsome base. 
Mahogany base, 
brass fittings, 
suitable for all 
interiors. $4.50, 
postpaid {does 
not include vase 
and shade). 

NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. 
{Residents of California, please add 2/2% sales 




GOLDEN DISC . . . this is the latest in 
compact cases and evening carry-alls. Non- 
tarnishable and entirely handmade of golden 
thread, this case is the ideal Gold Rush 
glamor highlight for you ... a perfect com- 1 
plement to your gold sandals and belt. 6" \ 
in diameter, a handy size. (Other sizes by 
request). Send orders now for Christmas de- ■ 
livery, and be sure to include an extra for 
yourself. $5, plus 25c for mailing. Created 
and sold exclusively by Lee Levere, 417 North 
Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

DASHING DONS ... the dons of old 
Spain, who settled in early California, in-j 
spired this combination of suede and gold 
leather. Waist-contouring design is achieved, 
by three adjustable gold or silver leather 
straps on suede body. The result is a new J 
belt, brightening your fall wardrobe. Suede 
in Gold Rush colors: Discovery Red, Sutter 
Brown, Nugget Gold; and all standard fall J 
colors. Sizes 24 to 32, about $5.00 a t yourl 
favorite store, or write Phil Sockett Mfg. j 
Co., Est. 1925, 1240 South Main St., Los. 
Angeles 15, Calif. 

ENGLISH IMPORT ... is this beautiful) 
brass-hammered repousse. Fitted as a wallji 
plaque, it may also be used as the center- 
piece for your coffee table, for hors d'oeuvre 
plate or a giant ashtray. 12" in diameter, this 
replica of an antique pictures in exact de-, 
tail an English tavern scene. Heavy lacquer 
finish protects it from tarnishing and scratch- 
ing. An appealing present for a friend, or 
just for you, they're attractively priced ati- 
83.50 each, or 86.95 the pair. Send check or 
money order to Irving Hamilton, 527 West 
Seventh Street, Los Angeles 14, California. 

IN-A-PURSE . . . organizes handbag so effi- 
ciently that you can put a finger on im- 
portant items in a hurry. No digging ... no 
embarrassment . . . pleated pockets hold, 
wallet, compact, letters, receipts, etc., right 
where you want them. Transfers as a unit| 
from one purse to another . . . nothing left 
behind. Of durable Marvalon fabric in blue, 
green or red. Specify size wanted — standard' 
(9 pockets) or miniature (7 pockets). Either 1 
size only SI postpaid. In-A-Purse Co., 4023-B! 
Cottage Grove, Des Moines, la. No C.O.D.V 

ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth 
Just throw it 'round the pole and zip it up!- 
No more mats or makeshift napkins to blow 
away in a welcome breeze. In three sharf 
colors: red and white; blue and white; oil 
green and white checks. Fits your garder 
table, round or square. Mercerized cotton ir 
smart basket weave, hand-printed; pre-laun 
dered. 84.95, postage prepaid. If in Califor 
nia, add 2 ] /£% sales tax. Matching napkins, 
ready-hemmed, 18 inches wide, only 40c each 
California Living, 1018 South Main St., Lo.< 
Angeles 15, Calif. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

EGG COZIES . . . One hundred years ago 
our great grandmothers treasured egg cozies, 
and homemakers today are captivated by 
their quaint charm. These colorful pixie-caps 
keep the eggs warm on the table, and blend 
with any dining room decor. Entirely hand- 
made, available in white, pink, lavender, blue, 
yellow, fuchsia, green, purple, scarlet, royal 
lue. Just $1.00 for three in a gift package. 
Send check or money order, no C.O.D.'s 
please, to Marie Farmer's Work-Box, Dept. 
C, 92 Grafton St., Arlington 74, Mass. 

BELT BAG ... by Jim Pack. Smartest news 
for fall is this entirely handmade and hand- 
stitched set . . . perfect accessory for any 
costume. Belt and bag (with plenty of room 
for your portables) may be worn separately 
or as a unique combination. Solid brass buckle 
brightens the belt and leather thongs hold 
the bag snugly in place. Fall fashion colors: 
Natural steer; lemon sherbert elkskin; cape- 
skin in black, brown, red, or blue. 315, pre- 
paid delivery. (Please add 38c for tax and 
delivery in Calif.) Direct from Jim Pack, 
1461 Grant Ave., San Francisco, Calif. 

BRONZE BEAUTY . . . handmade originals 
are these shimmering bronze kid sandals. 
The bare cut and modified wedge provide 
cushioned luxury for your feet. Ankle straps 
can be tied fore or aft, as you choose. You'll 
love these for dating, for dancing, for dress. 
Suede in red, cocoa, black, white or green 
(with gold piping, if you wish). Suede, 
S23.50. Gold or bronze leather, $25.50. (Add 
2V4% sales tax for Californians). Sizes 
4 through 8, N or M. Send your order to 
Dodd's of California, 1726 Bonita Ave., Bur- 
bank, Calif. 

CALIFORNIA '49ERS ... for your col 
lection of delightful conversation pieces in 
jewelry. From this Gold Rush charm brace- 
let dangle perfect miniatures of nuggets, 
pick, pan and shovel . . . and the tiny som- 
brero lapel pin is a perfect replica from the 
days of the Golden West. A precious set 
for you, and just the thing for that unusual 
gift. Gold plated for beauty and durability. 
Only $1.00 each plus 20% luxury tax; 2%% 
sales tax if in California. At the store in your 
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846 
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, California. 

eating fun for the children. A colorful, dur- 
able 4-piece set of dinner and butter plates, 
mug and bowl . . . with your child's first 
name baked into each piece. Enthusiastic 
letters are received daily about this attractive 
set, for it pleases parents as well as chil- 
dren. Ideal for the birthday or occasional 
gift. Just send child's name and sex (pattern 
differs for boy and girl) with check or money 
order to Johnson's China & Glass, Dept. C, 
11 Court Street, Binghamton, New York. Only 
$5 prepaid. Add 50c if west of the Mississippi. 

THE CAIIFORNIAN, September, 1948 


utfts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

1 il M 

individual salt and pepper shakers to delight any 
hostess. Of milled maple, in matching pairs in 
shape of pineapple, ' pear, acorn, thistle. Gift 
boxed in sets of four. $3.00 postpaid. 

CHARM STRING. Very Californian and very col- 
orful for your patio or outdoor living corner is 
this gay string of gourds and simulated fruit, all 
highly shellacked. $1.00 postpaid. 

TINY TEPS. Step-up for the youngsters, very handy 
for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, painted ply- 
wood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped flat, 
easily assembled. $3.95 (Add 25c for postage). 

NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. 
(Residents of California, please add 2'/2% sales 




something new 
in footwear 

J6 •£ 

"Metronome" . . a feather-light 
two strap sandal that fits like a 
charm and looks like a dream. 
Suede or calf, in rich autumn 
shades. Sizes 3 to 10 in all 
widths. To retail about $9.95. 

Write us for nearest store. 




3665 Whittier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif. 

FASHION DEMANDS ... the metallic 
touch . . . and Dutch Girl Yarns comply, 
with non-tarnishing lame for knitting and 
crocheting ever-so-smart accessories. The at- 
tractive evening bag illustrated is easily made, 
with four spools. This 3-ply Dutch Girl Lame 
comes in 75-yard spools, in gold, silver and 
copper for about $1.00 a spool. These and 
other Dutch Girl Yarns are at The Broadway 
Dept. Store, Los Angeles, other department 
stores and yarn shops. Or write direct to I 
The Bridgeton Co. Inc., Metro Station Box 
5280, Los Angeles 55, Calif. 

STOP THAT PEEKING . . . Here's the 
new No-Peek-O, the smart streamlined alu- 
minum set that prevents peeking in gin i 
rummy and other card games. It keeps the 
cards in neat order, and the cleverly de- 
signed felt base protects your table top and 
prevents slipping. You'll want several for 
yourself and for unusual gifts. They're at- 
tractively packaged and available in beauti- 
ful shades of blue, green or red. Postpaid, 
only $1.00. Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. Order direct 
from the Balas Manufacturing Company, 3804 
Woodland Ave., Cleveland 15, Ohio. 

WILLYS OF HOLLYWOOD . . . creates 
the Hideaway, a unique gossamer-sheer stock- 
ing, with handmade zipper pocket in the top I) 
for mad money, key, lipstick, compact or I 
jewels. Exquisite hosiery of Dupont nylon, 
with or without seams. 54 gauge, 15 or 20 
denier. Newest fall shades: smokecloud, au- i 
tumn brown, bronze tone, gunmetal, navy, 
black, topaz, green, Bermudana, negrita. Sizes 
8 to 11, made to order. $5.00 a pair, at May 
Company Wilshire, Los Angeles, and other 
fine stores. Or write Willys of Hollywood, 
1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif. 

QUAINTLY QUILTED . . . yes, the buckle I 
is actually quilted in this newer than new 
version of what to wear around your middle. 
This belt, about 2%" wide and made of the 
finest gold kidskin . . . wears well with tweeds 
and silks alike. Comes in sizes 24 to 32, and 
costs approximately $5.00 at leading stores 
across the country. If not available at your 
favorite stoie, write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co., 
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main Street, Los An- i 
geles, California. 

SALAD MISTRESS . . . you'll want for 
yourself, and for your friends, this six-piece 
set of California pottery. It includes oil and 
vinegar cruets, mustard jar with cover and 
spoon, salt and peppers, all on an easy-to- 
handle plastic tray. Colors to match your : 
kitchen, patio or barbecue: Red and white; 
maroon and green; blue and white; or tur- 
quoise and yellow. Just $2.00 plus 25c for 
mailing if outside of California. Add 2 l / 2 % 
sales tax (5c) for California delivery. Or- 
ders are promptly filled by Fred L. Seymour ' 
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

America Is All Agog" 

* for ginger ale budgets" 

It's the strapless, wire- less wonder from glamourous 
Hollywood — that "keeps up for keeps."Jhe dainty nylon leno 
lastex embraces you firmly but so gently . . . allows you to 
b-r-e-a-t-h-e. Like magic, the delicate, comfortable Warren 
featherboning achieves an alluring contour. Cups are wispy nylon 
voile. Available in angelic white or sultry black. A, Band C cup sizes. 



THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 


From California: 

Allardale of The Beverly 
Wilshire Hotel presents 
two exciting new orig- 
inals by MEREDITH ; 
fashion pace-setters from 
the current fall collection 

Extreme right: PROS- 
Meredith's salute to the 
California Gold Rush 
Centennial. Featuring 

dolman sleeves and pen- 
cil slim skirt, and taking 
its color cue from a 
Pinto pony this creation 
truly represents the de- 
signing skill of Mere- 
dith. It comes in a com- 
bination of three colors: 
black with white and am- 
bertone. Sizes 10-18. 

The West's smartest specialty shop. 

Directly above: TWO-TIMER. A double duty sleek fitting 
dress which boasts two interchangeable button-on mid- 
riffs. Black wool with butterscotch wool jersey midriff 
for daytime wear and companion metallic midriff for 
cocktail and dinner wear. Shown at left. Sizes 10-18. 
$79.95 — includes both midriffs. 

Both styles in Cohama's "Request" sheer wool crepe. 





THE CAIIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

Jj0*^* a * M0L 


•Trademark Reg. 

XJLj^fl^*^ Creations from Hollywood, where figures are fortunes. Roll on, split hip, girdle 
and panty girdle, two-way stretch nylon power net Jjzikpo panels combined with vertical 
stretch nylon satin JjilkjO Damsel insert in back panel for comfort and fit, smooth flat 
fagoted front seams, nude or black. Size 14, 15, 16, petite, small, medium and large. About 
$13.50. At Better Stores. 


HE CAU FORN I AN , September, 194; 







Pu C4nn£ Ci£t 

Sell for $ 1 5 ° to $ 2 5 ° 


all that the name implies .. .traditionally fine 

Anne Alt workmanship and quality. 
Nude, white, black, blue. Sizes 32 to 38. 

A. B. C. cups; contour stitched beneath bust. 

Cmm, ClOt 



THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 

Your first fall suit is important 

when it's designed by a master craftsman of supple sheen gabardine in a rainbow hue of autumn shades. 
Carefully detailed, with rounded bobby collar, self-covered buttons, and for side interest, two great pockets. 

Sold at such fine stores as 

May Co., Bullock's, Bullock's Wilshire, Los Angeles; 

The Emporium, San Francisco; Capwell's, Oakland. 

For store nearest you write Irving Schechter, 

719 So. Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 14, Calif. 

Miss Joan Leslie, lovely motion picture star, will soon be seen in 
Culver Pictures, "Northwest Stampede." 

From a group by 


California Centennial 
Collections for Yall 

executed in these magnificent new Gold Rush Colors 











& yU(» x^iwj 








Seven muted colors inspired by famous 

French tapestries. Featured in Whirlaway, 
Revoree Sheer, Cathay and Dull-Ora . . . 

all famous Mallinson fabrics. Available in 
fine ready-to-wear and fabric by the yard. 







ft- a 

0a ^ 

S o 




a o 3 


you look your best 
when you look for 
a DAN RIVER fabric 

And you look wonderfully casual wearing 

a California suit of a Dan River rayon. 

The fabric is a crisp suiting that takes to tailoring 

. . . resists wrinkles, always keeps its shape. 

Dan River Mills, Inc. 

Suit by Tabak of California in brown, 
blue, or charcoal. Sizes 10 to 18. About $23 
at the Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis; 
J. L. Brandeis & Sons, Omaha; 
A. Harris & Co., Dallas. 

tlTL of san francisco 

does town coats that do 

things for you . . . this one 

with exciting flattering lines 

and a brilliant new use of 

buttons comes in Lippitt 

superb gabardine . . . 

plush red, cavalier green, 

weskit grey, California beige, 

mascara brown, Tosca blue 

and black . . . Sizes 10 to 20 

. . . about eighty-nine dollars 

... at Davison-Paxon Co. 

Atlanta, Ga. and 

fine stores everywhere. 

"of san francisco" 
city of sophisticates and superlatives 
... of longest bridges and 
suddenest hills, and 
fairest flowers 

and smartest women. 




ALABAMA: Kessler's and Parisian, Birm- 

ARIZONA: Goldwaters, Phoenix; Von 
Steinwehr Co., Tucson. 
ARKANSAS: Pfeifer Bros., Little Rock. 
CALIFORNIA: Alma's Corset Shoppe, Stock- 
ton; Ames & Harris, Santa Maria; Ander- 
son's Specialty Shop, Susan vi lie; Leora 
Blesslnger, Temple City; Broadway-Holly- 
wood and Bullock's, Los Angeles; Grace 
Campbell Shops, San Francisco; Cavanaugh 
Surgical Co., San Jose; Cooper's Dept. 
Store, Fresno; Cornell's, Santa Monica; 
Corset Shop, Sacramento; Coulters, Los An- 
geles; Dorel's, Berkeley; The Duchess, Van 
Nuys; Thelma Edmunds, A I ham bra; Esther's 
Shop, Richmond; Mrs. Althea V. Godfrey, 
Ventura; Grace Shop, Visa! la; Alfred Gray, 
Pomona; Laura Green Co., Glendale; 
Hamels Ladies Shop, Riverside; Pearl Han- 
cock Corset, Bakersfield; C. H. Hittenberger 
Co. , San Francisco & Oakland; Hoi man's 
Pacific Grove; Kimball & Stone, Bakersfield; 
Ann S. Kincaid, Taft; Samuel Leask & Sons, 
Santa Cruz; Louise Corset Shop, Sacramento; 
McGaffey Girdle Shop, Los Angeles; Fran- 
cis Mahler Corset, Salinas; The Marston Co., 
San Diego; T. W. Mather Co., Pasadena; 
Barclay Surgical, Long Beach; Morris & 
Morrill Co., San Francisco; Myers Dept. 
Store, Whittier; North Park Corset Shop, 
San Diego; Princess Shop, Ingle wood, Ran- 
kin Dry Goods Co., Santa Ana; Thelma 
Richardson, San Jose; Rileys Dry Goods, San 
Luis Obispo; Rose Sorini, Berkeley; Sperry 
Corset Shop, Modesto; Toney's Girdle Shop, 
Los Angeles; Town Shop, Corona; Town 
Shop, Turlock; Vivian's, Redding; Wheelers 
Corset Shop, San Francisco; WMshire Carthay 
Corset, Los Angeles; Wineman's, Hunting- 
ton Park; Eve Young, San Mateo. 
COLORADO: Anderson's, Eaton; C. C. An- 
derson Co., Pueblo; Cates Smart Shop, 
Aurora; Corset Shop, Greeley; Day Jones 
Co., Pueblo; Denver Dry Goods, Denver; 
Eudora Shop, Lamar; Helen Ann Corset, Col- 
orado Springs; Joslin Dry Goods Co., 


Denver; Julian's, Ft. Collins; Le-Lavonne 
Shop, Trinidad; NaDean's, Ft. Morgan; 
Pueblo Surgical Supply, Pueblo; Pullen's, 
Boulder; The Vogue Shop, Longmont. 

DELAWARE: Kennard-Pyle Co., Wilmington, 

D. Ci Julius Garfinckel & Co., Kellogg Cor- 
set Shop, Whelans, Washington, D. C. 

FLORIDA: Burdine's, Inc., Miami; Corenes, 
Orlando; Dudley Corset, Miami; Furchgott's, 
Jacksonville; Habors, Tampa; Betty Harris, 
Miami Beach; Richard Store Co., Miami; 
Belle Smolin, Miami Beach. 

HAWAII: Norman Jemal, M. Mclnerny, Ltd., 
The Silhouette Shop, Honolulu, T. H. 

IDAHO: C. C. Anderson, Boise; C. C. An- 
derson Co., Lewiston; Classic Shop, Rexburg; 
The Dee Frock Shop, Rupert; Martha Gil I is, 
Blackfoot; Hales Ladies Apparel Shop, 
Twin Falls; Lee & Hanson, Idaho Foils; 
Luthy's, Preston; Model Shop, Wallace; Pack- 
ard Corset Shop, Boise; Shears, Caldwell; 
Stryans, Nampa; Style Shop, Burley,- Style 
Shop, Coeur d'Alene; Sydney-Talley Shop, 
Pocatello; Zimmerman's, Twin Falls. 

ILLINOIS: Bafford Famise Shop, Decatur; 
Lela Bafford's Corset Shoppe, Lincoln; Block 
& Kuhl Co., Peoria; Famise Corset Salon, 
Gales burg; Glennon & McNeil, Jo Met; The 
GNk Co., Madison; Glove Stores, Inc., Chi- 
cago 2; Mrs. Grace Helms, McComb; Lena 
Linquist, Monmouth; Loeber's, Inc., Chica- 
go; Miss A. Morrissey, Galesburg; Myers 
Bros., Springfield; Schanuel & West rich, 
Belleville; Seidel's Apparel Co., E. St. 
Louis; Edgar A. Stevens, Inc., Evanston. 

INDIANA: L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis; 
Burnett Corset Shop, Michigan City; Droste 
Corset Shop, Joan's Hosiery Shop, Evans- 
ville; Page Boy Co., Indianapolis; George 
Wyman & Co., South Bend. 
IOWA: Craemers, Cedar Rapids; Anna Held, 
Des Moines; Killian Co., Cedar Rapids; M. 
L. Parker Co., Davenport; Parsons Store, 
Redfield; J. F. Stampfer Co., Dubuque; 
Strub-Wareham, Inc., Iowa City; Younker 
Bros., Inc., Des Moines. 

KANSAS: Band Box Dress Shop, Elkhart; 
Aladdin Shop, lola; Boyce Shop, Hutch- 
inson; Buck's Dry Goods Co., Inc., Wich- 
ita; Pansy Butler, St. John; Campbell's, 
Oberlin; Christie Corset Shop, Wichita; 
Crosby Bros., Topeka; Doris Shop, Ktowa; 
Eckles Bros. Dept Store, Dodge City; Shoppe 
Elite, Hugoton; Fashion Shop, Oakley; 
Gibson's Style Shop, Lindsborg; Harris Ap- 
parel, El Dorado; Howard's, Lyons; Geo. 
Innes Co., Wichita; Jewells, Greenburg; 
Jo-Lene Shoppe, St. Francis; Beulah Kile, 
Neodesha; Kimball's, Newton; Lischesky 
Dry Goods Co., Great Bend; Logan's Style 
Shop, Beloit; Lullabye Shop, Parsons; Mc- 
Cormick Corset Dept., Wichita; Pegues- 
Wright Dry Goods Co., Hutchison; James A. 
Poole Dry Goods, Emporia; Princess Style 
Shop, Colby; Ramsay Bros. Dry Goods, 
Atchison; W. W. Virtue Store, Norton; Win- 
field Walker, Coffeyville; Weavers Dept. 
Store, Lawrence. 

KENTUCKY: Besten & Langen, Greenup & 
Whelan, Louisville; Mitchell, Baker, Smith 
Co., Lexington; Vogue Shop, Madisonville. 
LOUISIANA: Anticipation Shop, Shreveport; 
Masur Bros., Inc., Monroe; Ochsner Clinic, 


New Orleans; Weiss & Goldring, Alexan- 

MARYLAND: Charles St. Corsetieres and 
Hutzler Bros Co., Baltimore. 
MASSACHUSETTS: Berman's, Chelsea; Elaine 
Claire, Boston; Forbes & Wallace, Spring- 
field; Jordan Marsh Co., Boston; Wards 
Quality Shop, Fitchburg. 

MICHIGAN: Virginia Dare Stores and The 
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit; J. W. Knapp, 
Lansing; W. R. Knepp & Co., Bay City; 
Hedwig S. Krumm, Sturgis; Katharine Stevens 
Shop, Flint; Van Buren Shop, Ann Arbor. 
MINNESOTA: Dayton Co., Minneapolis; Em- 
porium, St. Paul; Hazel F. Heiberg, Du- 
luth; C. F. Massey Co., Rochester; Patter- 
son Surgical Supply, and Schuneman's, St. 

MISSOURI: Barrels Mercantile Co., Cape 
Girardeau; Florence Berry, Kirksville; Bon 
Ton Shop, Monett; Rosa M. Bridges, 
Springfield; Carol's Womens Wear and 
Miss Carr's Style Shop, West Plains; Christ- 
man Dry Goods Co., Joplin; Farrar's, 218 
Plaza Theatre Bldg., Kansas City; Frances 
Lorraine Shop, Carrallton; Garfiinkles, Pop- 
lar Bluff; Hackers, Bolivar; Hirsch Bros. Dry 
Goods, St. Joseph; Ireland Shop, Chi II i- 
cothe; W. E. Isle Co., Kansas City; Kings, 
Stockton; Love's Lingerie, Kirkwood; Mil- 
jon Shop, Albany; M. Netter Dry Goods Co., 
Springfield; Geo. B. Peck, Inc., Kansas 
City; Ritzie Style Shop, Frederickstown; 
Stix, Baer & Fuller Co., St. Louis; John 
Taylor Dry Goods, Kansas City; Anna Vac- 
caro Corset Shop, St. Louis; Woodside 
Style Shop, Ironton. 

MONTANA: Anderson Style Shop, Kalispell; 
Browning Merc. Co., Browning; Hazel's Style 
Shop, Dillon,- Marion Herbert Conet Shop, 
Lewistown; Moris-Stella Shop, Helena; Miller 
Dry Goods Co., Columbus; Paris of Montana, 
Great Falls; Ida Pearson Shop, Missoula; 
Phelan Corset Shop, Billings; Sara Jane 
Shop, Shelby; Murial Selby Corset Shop, 

NEBRASKA: Basketts Dress Shop, Neligh; 
Beverly Store, Norfolk; Carman's, Omaha; 
Chapman's Style Shop, York; Conner Ap- 
parel Shop, Stratton; Corner Style Shop, 
Broken Bow; Creighton's Store, Trenton; De- 
Graffs, McCook; Evans Style Shop, Lexing- 
ton; The Fair Store, Norfolk; Marguerite 
Freeman, Geneva; Greenless, Sidney; Hazel's 
Shoppe, Benkelman; Hovland-Swanson, Lin- 
coln; Thomas Kilpatrick & Co., Omaha; 
Marsons, Inc., Fremont; Martha Ann Shop, 
Cozad; Mary Morrow Shop, Scottsbluff; 
Natelson's, Omaha; O'Connor Dept, Store, 
North Platte; Princess Shoppe, Sidney; 
Rudy's, Foils City; Ruters Fashion Shop, 
Kearney; Seiler Surgical Co., Omaha; Val- 
lier Dress Shop, Ashland. 
NEVADA: Burge Lloyd Surgical Co., Reno. 
NEW JERSEY: M. E. Blatt Co., Atlantic City; 
Corset Box, Asbury Park; Gossard Corset 
Shop, Plainfield; Mildred's Corset Shop, 
Newark; Tuckers, Long Branch. 
NEW MEXICO: Bacas Haberdashery, Socor- 
ro; Dillons, Clovis; El Encanto Shop, Las 
Cruces; Emporium Store, Santa Fe; Forson 
Ready To Wear, Portales; Hart Dress Shop, 
Espanola; Allen W. Hinkle Dry Goods Co., 
Albuquerque; Inn as, Santa Fe; Kistler- 
Collister, Albuquerque; Modernee Shop, 
Farmington; Myrtices Shop, Carlsbad; Vogue 
Shop, Albuquerque; Vogue Shop, Artesia. 
NEW YORK: Abraham & Strauss, Inc., 
Brooklyn; Adam, Meldrum & Anderson, 
Buffalo; Bloomingdale's, New York; Wm. 
Hengerer Co., Buffalo; Roberts Corset Shop, 
Port Richmond, Staten Is.; Westwood Phar- 
macol Corp., Buffalo. 

NORTH CAROLINA: Arcade Fashion Shop, 
Winston-Salem; Belk's, New Bern; Belk 
Stores, Greensboro; Margaret Johnson Cor- 
set, Raleigh; Ramsey-Bowles Co., States- 
ville; The Spainhour Co., Hickory. 
NORTH DAKOTA: Charnholm Dept. Store, 
Bottineau; Ellison's, Minot; Virginia Flora 
Corset Show, % Stare Without A Name, 
Fargo; Hosmer's Store, Dunseith; A. W. 
Lucas, Bismarck; Norby Dept. Store, Grand 

OHIO: Kathryn S. Bell, Inc., Columbus; 
Carlisle Allen Co., Painesville; Bonita Conn, 
Dayton; Fashion Co., Columbus; Fidelity 

THE CALIFORN1AN, September, 1948 

Style #5 23 — designed with special 
CONTROL=LIFT to give a smooth, flatter* 
ing l' ne to the full, mature figure. 

• Comes in over 600 different sizes . . . custom 
fit to individual measurements. 

• Bias cup with diagonal tucking and V 
construction tor comfortable uplift. 

• Continuous straps from Base of front to back, 
lined to prevent rolling or cutting. 

• l=inch adjustment in back. 
Made of rayon and cotton jacquard Colors: 
Nude, White, Black. Also in plain Batiste. 

Medical Supply Co., Dayton; Frank Bros., 
j Marion; Gail G. Grant, Painesville; Loe- 
, ber's, Cincinnati; Loeber's, Cleveland; Mary 
I Margaret Corset Co., Cincinnati; May Co., 
] Cleveland; A. J. Olsen Co., E. Liverpool; 
, Rike-Kumler Co., Dayton. 

, OKLAHOMA: Brown-Durtkin Co., Ginny's 
I Specialty 5hop and Seidenbach's, Tulsa; 
J Sylvia's, Oklahoma City. 

, OREGON: Adrienne's, Medford; Astoria Ap- 
: parel, Astoria; Coos Bay Gown Shop, North 
; Bend; Corset Clinic, Baker; Fashion Center, 
j Roseburg; Georgann's Corset Shop, Corval- 
| Ms; Golden Rule Store, Grants Pass; Had- 
ley. Inc., Eugene; Howard Corset Shop, 
Salem; (Catherine's Shop, Freewater; Kath- 
| ryn's, Pendleton; Miller Mercantile Co., Eu- 
gene; Olds, Wortman & King, and Shaw 
Surgical Co., Portland; Simon's Ready To 
Wear, Oregon City; Town Shop, Klamath 

Falls; Weitzel's, Ashland; John Wetle Co., 

PENNSYLVANIA: Brills, Lansford; Sophie W. 
Franke, Pittsburgh; Hess Bros., Allentown; 
Joseph Home Co., Pittsburgh; Morahan's, 
Wilkes-Barre; Strawbridge & Clothier Co., 
Philadelphia; P. Wiests Sons, York; Louis 
Yellin, Inc., Philadelphia. 
RHODE ISLAND: Shartenbergs, Pawtucket. 
SOUTH DAKOTA: Gutterman's, Flandreau; 
Flemings, Huron; Fowler-Crum-Perdue, Hot 
Springs; A. E. Lucas, Pierre; Model Hat 
Shop, Hot Springs; Shriver-Johnson Co., 
Sioux Falls; 5mart Shop, Custer; The Wom- 
an's Shop, Rapid City. 

TENNESSEE: Bry Block Mercantile Corp., and 
J. Goldsmith & Sons Co., Memphis; G. J. 
Grimes Co., Nashville; Legg's Beauty Shop, 
Martin; Loveman's Inc., Chattanooga; B. 
Lowenstein & Bros., Memphis. 

TEXAS: Park Bishop Co., El Paso; Thelma 
K. Brill, Houston; A. P. Cary Co., Ft. 
Worth; Elite Corset Shop, Texas City; The 
Fair, Ft. Worth; The Fashion Shop, 
Gainesville; Foley Bros, Houston; W. A. 
Green Co., Dallas; Lee Medical Supply Co., 
Abilene; Abe M. Lewis, Houston; Mollies 
Style Shop, El Paso; Mother To Be Shop, 
Midland; Page Boy, Dallas; Popular Dry 
Goods Co., El Paso; Prelude Maternity Shop, 
Jacksonville; Renfro Drug Co., Inc., Aus- 
tin; Theresa Sampson, Galveston; Sommers 
Drug Co., San Antonio; Terrell Supply Co., 
Ft. Worth; Terry Farris, Edinburg. 

UTAH: C. C. Anderson Co., Logan; Auer- 
boch Co. and LaRies Shop, Salt Lake City; 
Lewis Ladies Store, Provo; Makoff, Salt 
Lake City; The Orchid Shop, Ogden; The 
Paris Co., Salt Lake City; RoLan's, Ogden; 
Rosona Shop, Richfield; Style Shop, Helper. 

WASHINGTON: C. C. Anderson Stores Co., 
Richland; Bon Marche, Spokane,- Browne's 
Store, Grand Coulee; The Fisher Co., Ta- 
coma; Frederick & Nelson, Seattle; Gaines 
Corset Shop, Wenatchee; Garners, Spokane,- 
Goff's Apparel, Centralia; Knettle Corset 
Shop, Tacoma; Paulson's Salon, Olympia; 
Ramsay's, Vancouver; Rose Shop, Yakima; 
Rumbaugh-McLain, Everett; Show Supply 
Co., Seattle; Elizabeth Wessels Corset, 

WISCONSIN: McNeany's, Beloit; Harry S. 
Manchester, Inc., Madison; Milwaukee Bos- 
ton Store, Milwaukee. 

WYOMING: Dobbin's Women's Wear, 
Cheyenne; Hetts Co., Rock Springs; Kings, 
Rawlins; Mary Jane Shop, Laramie; ding- 
ers, Lusk; Quality Shop, Casper; Union 
Mercantile Co., Rock Springs; Vetas Store, 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 


In the Crucible of California . . . Cold and Printer's Ink 


by william j. bowen 

his is the romance of a printing press 
that was already old when our story 
begins. It is the story of California's 
first printing press which recorded one 
of the world's great news scoops . . 
seven weeks late. 

It is the story of a Yankee printing 
press that served Don Agustin V. Zamo- 
rano and the Mexican government of 
California before it set about to record the discovery 
of gold and follow the miners from placer to placer 
and from boom town to boom town. Like the stories of 
so many of the miners themselves, it ends in tortuous 
violence and passes into anonymous obscurity. 

Its high moment was reached when it was in the 
service of California's first newspaper, The Californian. 
On March 15, 1848, it scooped the world on the biggest 
news break of the middle nineteenth century. This may 
appear hardly surprising, however, since the thing hap- 
pened in its own frontier backyard. But actually, The 
Californian did not get around to reporting its scoop 
until more than seven weeks after the event, and even 
then buried it in an eleven-line story at the bottom of 
page two. The old, worn-out press stubbornly ground 
out the copies, as insensitive as its editors to the history 
it was recording under the simple head, "Gold Mine 

Gold Mine Found.— In the newly 
made raceway of the Saw Mill recently 
erected by Captain Sutter, on the Ameri- 
can Fork, gold has been found in consider- 
able quantities. One person brought thirty 
dollars worth to New Helvetia, gathered 
there in a short time. California, no doubt, 
is rich in mineral wealth ; great chances 
here for scientific capitalists. Gold has 
been found in almost every part of the 


It took Sam Brannan's quinine bottle, two months 
later, to awaken the world to the full significance of the 
story. But the Gold Rush was on. Publishers and printers 
alike abandoned their weather-beaten old press and 
scurried off for the Mother Lode country, a jump ahead 
of their subscribers. All San Francisco followed. This 
was not the first nor yet the last, time that its creaking 
timbers had been jettisoned by its owner or left to the 
hardships of gathering dust and loneliness. Hardship 
was second nature to it. 

The Spanish rule of California which had begun in 
1769 had given way to Mexican rule in 1822. Three 
years later there came to California from Mexico one 

Don Agustin V. Zamorano in the service of the govern- 
ment. He was destined to become a statesman,' soldier, 
craftsman and, to our special interest, California's first 

In about 1829 Zamorano contracted with a Yankee 
sea captain to pick up a printing press for him; but it 
was not until 1832 that it arrived around the Horn, and 
1834 before anything was printed on it (possibly be- 
cause there were no printers to be had; possibly be- 
cause the scanty fonts of type were as worn and hoary 
as the weather-beaten old press). The remarkable piece 
of machinery which was delivered to Zamorano, and 
which was destined to serve as historian of the Gold 
Rush era, was a sad instrument of the graphic art even 
for that day. Its massive, upright wooden frame, heavy 
stone bed and huge iron screw were reminiscent of Ben- 
jamin Franklin's earliest crude equipment. Bearing the 
trade name Ramage, it was unquestionably among the 
very first presses to have been manufactured on the 
American continent. It cost Zamorano $460, including 
the sea captain's fee. The Boston trader who supplied 
it had craftily filled the order, at that safe distance, 
from the meanest second-hand equipment available. 
Nevertheless, whatever its full life in staid Boston may 
have been, it embarked in its old age on as rugged a 
career of adventure as any of the pioneers whose lives 
it chronicled for the next twenty years. 

When it finally got going, the old Ramage turned out 
Mexican government documents, books, tell-tale letter- 
heads and commercial printing. But after two years of 
preserving in ink the family names of Pico and Sepul- 
veda, and striking off Alvarado's famed Declaration of 
Independence of Alta California, Zamorano -left Cali- 
fornia hastily and the press, recording its contemporary 
history the while, fell into the hands of the revolutionists 
after the fall of the presidio at Monterey. It changed 
hands several times, traveled to Sonoma and back to 
Monterey, then disappeared. "It was junked in a deserted 
adobe," historian Carl Wheat wrote, "and when the 
Americans arrived in 
July, 1846, this moth- 
eaten exponent of 
latter-day culture had 
been almost com- 
pletely forgotten." 

But among the invading Yankees were the Reverend 
Walter Colton and "Doctor" Robert Semple, who turned 
up the dust-covered, rusting hulk. Whereupon they re- 
paired its mouse-eaten ink balls, scoured its aging 
frame, oiled its creaking joints and forthwith founded 
The Californian, California's first newspaper. Back from 
its retirement, the old press reverted to English, its na- 
tive tongue. 

The first issue, printed on cigarette wrapping paper, 
was out in August 1846 (its centennial anniversary saw 
the birth of The Californian Magazine). But this was 
not until two days after Commodore Stockton had made 
big news by defeating the Californians and raising the 
American flag over the pueblo of Los Angeles for the 
first time. This disturbed Colton and Semple not a whit, 
as the news did not reach Monterey until three weeks 

Eureka! Emigrants were lured by posters and! 
decorated cards giving notice of sailings by! 
fast clipper ship to the gold fields of Cali-f 
fornia. 117 days was labeled rapid transit.! 




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Pray, Commander, is at Pier 15 East liiver, receiving cjxgo, and will sail 
promptly as above. Eates •strietiy A No. 1, and made the passage in 117 dajs. 

WM. T.COLEMAN & CO., 88 Wall St. 


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AT PIER 11 E.R., 


WM. T. COtOU* ft CO.. 88 W«ll ft-, Twrtau BttiWfnR 







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later anyhow, and in good time for California's first 
"Extra" to be printed. 

Colton and Semple were a formidable team. The Rev. 
erend Colton was naval chaplain and alcalde 
of Monterey, which office Wheat has described as 
"mayor, city council, justice-of-the-peace, grand "and 
petit jury, high court of appeals, both criminal and 
civil, minister of public works, guardian of public 
morals, adviser to the wayward, confessor of the love- 
lorn, and general civic factotum." On the side Colton 
saw fit to tax drunks and gamblers to finance Colton 
Hall, famed as the seat of the constitutional convention 
of 1849, and over which Semple presided as president. 
"Doctor" Semple had been one of the leaders of the 
ill-conceived Bear Flag Revolt . . eventually became 
California's first real-estate promoter. Partner Colton 
described him as "an emigrant from Kentucky, who 
stands six-foot eight . . he is in buckskin dress, a fox- 
skin cap ; is true with his rifle, ready with his pen and 
quick at the type case." 

Less than a year before The Calif ornian s historic 
scoop on the discovery of gold, Semple put the hoary 
relic aboard a sailing vessel and moved the office to 
Yerba Buena, which was about to be renamed San Fran- 
cisco. In the meantime, Sam Brannan . . he of the 
quinine bottle . . had already arrived. Landing in San 
Francisco, he brought with him aboard the Brooklyn 
not only 300 Mormon settlers to double San Francisco's 
population, but complete equipment for a print shop 
as well. The shiny press might have put a less stalwart 
old hulk to shame. But not Zamorano's Ramage. It 
went on both recording and being a part of the Gold 
Story as Brannan's slick press never did. Nevertheless, 
while he was off with General Fremont, Brannan started 
a newspaper called the California Star. Thus Califor- 
nia's first newspaper, The Californian, became San Fran- 
cisco's second. The rivalry was none too cordial. Bran- 
nan's Star called it "... a dim, dirty little paper . . . 
published by Walter Colton and Robert Semple, the 
one a lying sycophant, and the other an overgrown 
lickspittle." However, sycophant and lickspittle soon 
gave up their interests and in rapid succession the news- 
paper and its mighty engine of industry changed hands 
three times. 

But The Californian hardly had time to record the 
ratification of the treaty between the United States and 
Mexico, making California a possession of the United 
States, when the editors and printers were off to the 
gold fields, along with those of the Star, leaving the 
ancient contrivance to neglected idleness. 

Not for long, however. For on July 15, The Cali- 
fornian staff returned briefly to throw together a special 
edition (see cut), explaining: "The suspension of this 
paper has not occurred for want of materials or pe- 
cuniary means, but alone from the sudden, exciting 
change which has occurred since the discovery of the 
extensive gold mines in the Sierra Nevada . . and wish- 
ing to collect a little of that which 'glistens' ourselves, 
renders the suspension obvious to all." 

The Californian s modest, page two scoop, however, 
had been too meek to really incite the incredulous 
sceptics into a Gold Rush of fever pitch. It remained 
for shrewd businessman Sam Brannan to add the neces- 
sary showmanship. In May, two months after the first 
report of the discovery in The Californian, and four 
months after the actual discovery, Brannan, the young 
Mormon publisher who by now was a storekeeper at 



ICP VVe introduce the " Californium" (o 
oor patrons to-day, believing alter tbo tem- 
porary suspension, aoil the important news 
which it contains, it will be welcomed and 
read with interest, both at home and abroad. 
Tbo suspension of this paper has not oc- 
curred for want of materials or pecuniar/ 
means, but alone from tho sudden, exciting 
change which has occurred since the dis- 
covery of tbo extensive gold mines in the 
Sierra Nevada. Many of our subscribers 
and agents have left tbeir usual placea of 
abode, and the means of conveyance has 
boon cut off from many parts of California, 
and wishing to collect a little of that which 
"glisteos" ourselves, renders the suspension 
obvious to all. As soon as tho people 
return to their business and homes, or bo- 
como settled and have a location, wo will 
resume the Californian, as formerly. But 
during tho temporary suspension, we mny 
present our readers occasionally with an 
issue to gratify their mental appetites. 

Editors and printers of California's 
first newspaper, The Californian, raced 
their subscribers to the mother lode 
country to get their share of "that 
which glistens." But they came back 
in July to print this one issue ex- 
plaining suspension of publication. 
Meanwhile Zamorano's printing press 
gathered dust before resuming its ro- 
mantic adventures in the gold country. 


James Marshall discovered gold 
on January 24, 1848 . . 5 

in Captain Sutter's raceway . 

. . . but Sam Brannan really 
started the mad rush with his 
quinine bottle of fine gold. 

Sutter's Fort, took his famous quinine bottle full of gold 
to San Francisco where he gathered excited crowds about 
him in the streets and touched off the get-rich-quick mad- 
ness that spread around the world. To be sure that it 
spread fast and far, he engaged in one of history's most 
spectacularly successful advertising stunts. He had a 
special edition of the Star prepared and dispatched two 
thousand copies by special overland express to "the 

California's first public school had opened in April 
in a little redwood schoolhouse in San Francisco. But 
within two weeks after Brannan's exhibition in the city 
streets, its 37 students had dwindled to eight, and the 
one remaining member of the school board suggested to 
its distinguished and scholarly teacher, Thomas Douglas, 
that they shut up shop and be off to the diggings . . 
which was accomplished forthwith. Six months later, 
Zamorano's remarkable treasure of antiquity printed a 
hollow advertisement which cried emptily into the wilder- 
ness: "Public School of San Francisco, a competent 
teacher wanted." 

Walter Colton described the exodus from the capital 
at Monterey: ". . . the blacksmith dropped his hammer, 
the carpenter his plane, the mason his trowel, the farmer 
his sickle, the baker his loaf, and the tapster his bottle. 
All were off for the mines, some on horses, some on 
carts, and some on crutches, and one went in a litter." 


Word of The Californian's scoop and Brannan's 
quinine bottle soon captivated the world. Books on the 
Gold Rush appeared in Russia. Poland, Germany and 
Australia. A punning cartoon in Punch portrayed "A 
Run Upon Ye Bankes of Ye Sacramento." An imagina- 
tive French print showed a far-away artist's conception 
of California gold miners wearing artist's smocks and 
bows and striped trousers with long sashes. Sam Bran- 
nan's advertising stunts had worked. The rush for gold 
was on. Within a year the rough adventurers had swelled 
into legion and had acquired a name that has stuck ever 
since . . the '49ers. They came by covered wagons and 
fought Indians and thirsted on the desert. They came 
by fast Clipper, in 117 days, around the Horn or across 
the Isthmus of Panama. They were further lured, en- 
ticed or prodded by eastern opportunists who knew, or 
pretended to know, how to advise or equip the prospec- 
tive emigrant. Guide books were promptly printed in 
New York in 1848. Maps could be prepared for a fee. 
There was a portable iron house, grand-daddy of the 
pre-fabs, specifically designed for the gold fields (see 
cut). Instructions in mining techniques, seasick cures 
and other services were offered. Large posters and small 
decorated cards (see full page illustration) gave notice 
of sailings of fast clipper ships. 

They came from near as well as from far. The Cali- 
fornia Star, just before suspending publication, reported 
on June 10, 1848: "The excitement and enthusiasm of 
gold washing continues. Every seaport as far south as 
San Diego and every interior town and nearly every 
rancho from the base of the mountains . . south, has 
become suddenly drained of human beings . . Ameri- 
cans, Calif ornians, Indians and Sandwich Islanders . . ." 

As the old communities were depleted new towns and 
tent cities sprang up overnight and there was a great 
real estate boom. Placards advertised Nicolaus as a city 
where "none have been attacked with any of the diseases 
incident to other parts of California." Other thriving 
cities, long since reverted to mere ghost towns, lured 
the immigrant with high-flown tributes to their particu- 
larly superior brands of California weather . . plus the 
gold up in them thar hills jest a-waitin' to be dug up. 
The California of Bret Harte and Mark Twain was 
ready and waiting for the chroniclers. In the meantime, 
Zamorano's Boston relic had been stored away to be 
preserved as an heirloom for future generations. But 
an Englishman persuaded it to again come out of re- 
tirement and do the historian's job with stout spirit . . 
rotting timbers, rusted screw, warped platen and all. 

Claim jumpers seized the land of James W. Marshall, 
the millwright who had discovered the gold at Sutter's 
Mill, and posted armed guards to keep him out. Sutter 
himself had his huge land grant overrun; his help in his 
busy little colony deserted, his cattle were stolen, and 
his lands looted. Sam Brannan had played the Pied 
Piper with his quinine bottle of gold and all of San 
Francisco and most of California followed him back 
into the hills and to the banks of the American River. 

Sam Brannan was ready for them. It all came about 
this way . . with Marshall, Sutter and Brannan each 
figuring in the drama that ultimately spelt their sepa- 
rate dooms. 

Captain John A. Sutter, a Swiss immigrant, had re- 
ceived a land grant from Mexico to start a colony called 
New Helvetia on the spot where Sacramento stands to- 
day. Among the colonists was one James W. Marshall, 
who worked for Sutter down at the sawmill on the 
American River, near the present village of Coloma. 

James Marshall discovered gold in the raceway at Sut- 
ter's Mill on January 24, 1848. There was no immedi- 
ate hullabaloo, and there was some effort to keep it 
a secret. When he took samples of his find to the as- 
sayer's office he was laughed at. Indeed, this was not 
really the first gold discovered in California. For sev- 
eral years it had been mined in substantial commer- 
cial quantities, without fanfare, in Southern California. 
Word reached San Francisco and the great news 
scoop had eventually appeared in The Calijornian. Still 
little excitement had been aroused. But Storekeeper 
Sam Brannan saw in the discovery of gold a great gim- 
mick for the sale of merchandise and made ready for 
it. His breathless storming of San Francisco with ac- 
tual, glittering samples in his quinine bottle, and his 
special edition of the Star that was rushed across the 
continent, fired the imaginations of men and brought 
to California its first great mass migration. Sam Bran- 
nan hurried to the Mother Lode country to cash in on 
the rush that would follow on his heels. When they 
arrived his stores, stocked with goods, were waiting in 
calculated anticipation. This modest beginning he par- 
layed in a few years time into a vast fortune that in- 
cluded: Owning one-fourth of Sacramento, one-fifth of 
San Francisco, and most of the land which now contains 
the sprawling city of Los Angeles; investments in 
ranches, railroads, vineyards, mines and boats; the 
founding of a bank and printing his own currency; 
owning, for a spell, a large (Continued on page 72) 









No Housing Problem: A prefabricated iron house was advertised in 
the "Pocket Guide to California," published in New York a century 
ago as a lure to prospective gold rushers. Priced at $100, it could 
be knocked down, packed in two boxes and shipped to San Francisco 
for $18. Said the ad: "I am thus induced to call the attention of 
those going to California to an examination of them. The iron is 
grooved in such a manner that all parts of the house, roof and sides 
slide together, and a house 20x15 can be put up in less than a 
day. They are far cheaper than wood, are fireproof, and much more 
comfortable than tents . . there will also be no trouble in remov- 
ing from one part of the country to another . . they require no 
paint and will not rust . . ." No mention was made of a hot day! 


California Gold Brought Promise To Many. . . Riches To Few 

Flour sold for one 
Saloon rentals were 
Boat loads of laun- 

At Drunkards Bar, Poker Flat, Pinch Em Tight, Hangtown 
and Bear Gulch lucky '49ers panned unbelievable quan- 
tities of gold. An Onion Valley strike yielded six thousand 
dollars in one hour, including a single nugget worth eighteen 
hundred dollars. Bear Gulch yielded two hundred thousand 
dollars in four days; Poker Flat seven hundred thousand dol- 
lars in a month; American Bar three millions. 

For each miner striking it rich there were a thousand who 
scraped three to five dollars a day, hardly enough to pay for 
provisions. Yet there was not a man among them but who 
was certain that for him tomorrow would have a golden dawn. 

Sacramento boasted four houses in April of 1849. By No- 
vember it was a boomtown of one hundred thousand. Yerba 
Buena of 1846 was a quiet village, population sixty. The gold 
rush found its name was San Francisco, a world-famous port 
of call where hundreds of deserted ships cluttered the water- 
front and sailors dreamed of panning a year's wages every 
hour. Entire towns from Missouri to the Atlantic Seaboard 
rolled west. Frenchmen, Chinese, Englishmen, Australians swarm- 
ed to California, converting the new state into the most cos- 
mopolitan spot on the globe. During the year of 1852 more 
than eighty million dollars of gold ingots were smelted and 
sent to the mint at Philadelphia. 

Mother Lode country merchants thrived, 
dollar fifty a pound; brown sugar for three, 
as high as one thousand dollars a month, 
dry were sent to China because too many washerwomen ex- 
changed their tubs for tin pans. Those who stayed at their jobs, 
however, found more negotiable dirt in dungarees than most of 
the deserters reclaimed from gravel. 

Mokelumne Hill recorded eighty-five murders in seventeen 
weeks; other mining towns did not lag far behind. 

Gold tycoons gained the Midas touch. They switched from raw 
whiskey and flannel shirts to champagne and diamond-studded 
wardrobes. Sam Brannan was courting the European actress, 
Lola Montez, in finer style than her Bavarian king. He had an 
income of one thousand dollars a day. He owned railroads, 
vineyards, ranches and mines; his domain included one hundred 
seventy thousand acres where present day Los Angeles County 
lies. He was peddling pencils when he died. 

Today the romance of the 1848 gold rush has largely been 
replaced by 1948 cost accounting methods. Ten California min- 
ing corporations headed by modern business executives pro- 
duce three-quarters of the current supply. These executives, un- 
like the Brannans of old who were always front page copy, 
are characterized by a repugnance for publicity. Experience 
has taught them that anonymity is the surest protection against 
wildcat schemers and crackpots who believe tbat a mine execu- 
tive and his gold are easily parted. 

California remains the leading gold producing state in the 
union, with more than two billion dollars extracted during the 
past one hundred years. Yet from a contemporary viewpoint, 
gold is an unimportant product. In 1945 California's total yield 
of five million dollars was one-third less than the value of 
oranges produced in Los Angeles county; one-twelfth that of 
the sardine catch of the state; one-sixtieth that of petroleum. 
The apparel, motion picture and building industries, for ex- 
ample, greatly outvalue the production of gold. 

A scattering of lesser producers add their bit of pay dirt to 
the yearly yield. Resifting old fields, they are happy to average 
ten dollars of gold dust per ton of rock, where once ninety 
thousand dollars per ton was not uncommon. 

In the rear of the present day gold parade is a group of sun- 
burned, leathery, lone-wolf prospectors typified by "Seldom 
Seen Slim" of the Panamints. Like him, they roam the deserts 
and mountains of California, chipping rocks and smelling dirt, 
ekeing out a spare existence . . still searching for the lost 
bonanza of Mount Disappointment. 


Mention of James W. Marshall brings no smile of I 
pride to the face of his descendant, Melvin Mar- 
shall, shown below. Melvin has been a miner all I 
his life near Isabella in scenic Kern County, and I 
for reasons of his own, refuses to discuss his kin- 
ship to the man who set the Gold Rush in motion | 
with his electrifying discovery at Sutter's Mill 

Ellin Mackay's grandfather, John V lOfl 
Mackay, joined the Gold Rush in 18' an 
made millions in the Comstock Lod Sol 
Clarence took the gold east, made rr e ifl 
Postal Telegraph. Ellin writes novel: hW* 
band Irving Berlin writes golden ""'. 



om Seen Slim" of the ghost town, Ballarat, has swapped his long- 
burros for a jeep . . his sole concession to modern progress, 
le wolf prospector is one of the last of a breed that will never 

placed. Death Valley and the Panamint Mountains are his diggin's 



■ » jigeles County Sheriff Eugene Biscailuz' 
C''or, Francisco Lopez, liked to nibble on 
-tcjanions. In 1 842 Lopez munched and 
:Ji| gold particles clinging to the roots. 
'-n>quently, Los Angeles lays claim to Cali- 
:"" 's first mines; shipped gold in 1 843 

Sutter was a landlubber . . his great-grandson 
is a seadog who has lived an adventure-cram- 
med life. Capt. Frank Sutter Link of Berkeley be- 
gan his career on a sailing vessel in 1909, was 
an outstanding naval hero in World War II. At 
present Frank sails a ship on the European run 

Harvey S. Mudd, well-known civic figure of Los Angeles, 
is the guiding hand of the Mudd interests which figure 
prominently in present-day gold mining. A famous en- 
gineer, Mudd is also director of sulphur, iron and in- 
surance companies, the Southern Pacific. In contrast to 
tycoons of the Gold Rush era, he's a power in city 
betterment, with opera and symphony topping the list 

Edwin Letts Oliver is president of the Idaho Maryland 
Mines at Grass Valley . . once abandoned as worthless 
. . which have produced 37 million dollars in gold 
since 1925. Oliver, a San Franciscan, designed a ro- 
tary filter method used throughout the mining world 
and in manufacture of oil, paper, chemicals and food 

Clifford Burton and his brother, Cecil, were a team 
who made news in the mining industry as operators of 
the Tropico Mine in the Mojave and the Ruth Mine at~ 
Trona. Since Cecil's death in 1947, Clifford has car- 
ried on the practice of staking many a "desert rat," 
resulting in the discovery of several major mines 



Usually, fashion appears to be about nine parts 
personal flattery and one part conversation. But this 
year you get everything from California ... a feminine 
kind of clothes more complimentary than any, and plenty 
to talk about in fashions that have a Gold Rush motif. 
Spurred on by all the Centennial celebratin's of 
California's birthday . . . our designers have struck 
gold in fabrics and foibles (real 24-karat 
gold impregnated materials, gildy-goldy accessories, 

golden tones of beige and taupe) . . . and seized 
the golden opportunity to create fashions 
inspired by grandma's quilting or square dance fancies, 
by a miner's mackinaw or a prospector's pony. 
It's all good fun, and nostalgic. You'll look 

sweet in a demure little dress, quaintly flirtatious . . 
or an out-and-out wicked gown for the gay way. 

There's nothing newer than yesteryear's fashions, 

brought up to date in an exciting new way. 
Ask to see the official Gold Rush fashion colors: 

Discovery Red (bold and ruddy) ; earthy Sutter Brown; 
woodsy Sierra Green; and, of course . . Nugget Gold! 


Wild andWooll 


You'll catch the Gold Rush spirit in these good-timers of jumbo plaid: left, 
Barney Max box jacket and skirt, good travelers, sizes 10 to 18, about $45 at 
The Broadway, Los Angeles; D. H. Holmes, New Orleans; Scruggs, Vandervoort, 
Barney, St. Louis. Worn by Christine Larson of Monogram's "Fighting Ranger." 
Right, mackinaw jacket by Dan Gertsman, perfect for football, sizes 10 to 20, 
about $30 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago; The Hecht Co., 
Washington, D. C. Model is Betty Caldwell, Monogram starlet in "Jinx Money." 


lhe JLlush is Un 

You'll strike it rich with these bright ideas from California: Quilted and quaint. 
Left, Betty Caldwell wears quilted vest and skirt, Royal of California ; sizes 10 to 
18, about $25. Right, Christine Larson in front-quilted jacket dress in Gold Rush 
colors, by Saba of California; sizes 9 to 15, about $15 at May Company, Los Angeles. 


Shades of yesterday! Christine steps 
out in gabardine suit by Hollywood 
Premiere. Note saddle-bag pockets, prim 
buttoned-up look; sizes 10 to IS, about 
$25 at Gottschalk's, Fresno. 

Betty, in Ken Sutherland's back-button 
gabardine, sizes 10 to lii, about $35 
at J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles; Neal's, 
Boston ; Carson's, Chicago. 

At Ghost Town on Placeritos Ranch, 
home of Monogram's western pictures. 




You'll find a wondrous assortment of clothes 
with accessories especially made to match 
California's Gold Rush colors . . . this nugget 
gold is a rich new stake, a glowing color used here 
by Lynn Lester to glorify a simple dress with 
shawl collar, deep pockets pegged for drama! 
In other centennial colors, too . . . sizes 10 to 18, 
about $30 at L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis; 
John A. Brown, Oklahoma City. 




e d 

. . . this is the Gold Rush color, bright as the sun 
and warm as a flame that sparks Centennial 
collections! Left, Marjorie Montgomery's rayon 

gabardine with dolman sleeves, hipline banding to 
release skirt fullness; sizes 10 to 18, about $23 

at City of Paris, San Francisco; L. S. Ayres, 
Indianapolis. Below, a yoked classic repeating the 
dolman sleeve influence, a California gabardine 
idea from Hollywood Premiere. 

Urr~ — 

Here's another Gold Rush color to watch . . . because 

its woods-y hue is so flattering, because it mixes 
and matches other colors in high favor this 
season, because it takes accessory accent so 
beautifully. Above, Agnes Barrett's plaid-with-red Ray- 

laine flannel "walking dress," as spirited as all out- 
doors; sizes 10 to 16, under $30 at Bullock's Wilshire. 
Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines. Right, 
Blair's good basic treatment with matching jerkin. 





Barbara and Virginia Blair create beauty in their studio in Monterey 

Barbara Eiler . . radio's girl friend 

Clarence Ross has the winning muscles 

Samuel Newsom and his lovely Japanese 
gardens are individual in world of art 

SAMUEL NEWSOM'S roots are deep in the soil of San Fran- 
cisco . . he is a master of Japanese gardening as well. Grand- 
father came to the gold country in 1850, was a pioneer architect 
for many large homes. Sam's father, his uncles, brothers and 
cousins, all have been leading architects or interior decorators. 
Sam's personal interest began early when he admired a small 
dry pool built by a Japanese house boy. The impression re- 
mained through his architecture course at the University of 
California, Navy service in World War I, and a nursery busi- 
ness until 1934. Then he sailed for Japan, intending to stay 
six months to study landscaping . . stayed five years, visiting, 
drawing, lecturing, even working in some of Japan's famous 
gardens. Returning to San Francisco in 1940, Sam served as 
interpreter for the Navy, but he admits the war years were the 
darkest of his life . . not only because of his understanding 
and appreciation of the finer side of the Japanese people, but 
because "American homeowners are not yet ready to understand 
and appreciate the highly developed art of Japanese gardening." 
A Japanese dry garden, like the one shown, is "a jumping-off 
place for meditation, not an easy and inexpensive expression." 
Reluctantly, Newsom sold his nursery and his dwarfed shrubs, 
bought an old barn in Mill Valley and turned it into home 
and studio . . turning, too, to commercial designs for mural 
wallpapers . . inspired by the redwoods and waterfalls of Mill 
Valley. BARBARA AND VIRGINIA BLAIR pooled talents 
to create an exciting little studio perched on a building on 
Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey. Barbara had studied pottery 
at U.C.L.A., Virginia had absorbed painting and design at the 
Chicago Art Institute. Today, in their pink-walled aerie, the 
beautiful sisters put their skilled fingers to molding bowls, 
carving earrings and buttons, experimenting with new glazes 
. . and they've created an exciting, profitable enterprise. 
CLARENCE ROSS of Alameda is Mr. U.S.A. of 1948, the 
proud possessor of $1000 and a four-foot trophy. Clancy walked 
off with the national title in Los Angeles, operates a physical 
culture studio, exercises an hour and a half a day. BARBARA 
EILER is a California girl who made good as a "girl friend." 
Now 21, Miss Eiler is a veteran of eight years in radio in Holly- 
wood, has been Dennis' girl friend in "A Day in the Life of 
Dennis Day," Babs in "The Life of Riley," Barbara on the 
Danny Thomas show, Susan McClean on "The Guiding Light," 
and Kenny Baker's girl friend on "Glamour Manor." She's 
single, owns a horse, and knits. 


Ann Miller, star of M.G.M.'s "Easter Parade," with Keneth Hopkins 



Keneth Hopkins 

with one N and a Yen to make beautiful hats 


ALTHOUGH you may know him merely as the label in 
one of your becoming hats, Keneth Hopkins actually is 
a very charming man and a real California personality, 
who once took exceptions to his wife's millinery aberra- 
tions . . said he could do better himself . . and did. 

Keneth Hopkins was an art student in San Francisco 
when he noticed people were literally buying the hats he 
designed right off Mrs. H's head. So he stopped trying 
to draw pictures and made his first millinery collection 
which he presented in a little shop in Beverly Hills. That 
was February 14, 1937: Beverly Hills was a rich man's 
pantry, Romanoff's a beanfield, and couturieres something 
you read about in fashion magazines. 

Today, Keneth Hopkins is a pioneer in the famous de- 
signer colony that has sprung up within a stone's throw of 
his mirrored salon in the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. Here, 
any day, you are likely to see famous and beautiful women 
searching for something just a little different, a hat for 
some special occasion . . and probably the designer him- 
self restlessly selecting and rejecting fabrics and colors 
with which to make them more lovely. 

Personally, Keneth Hopkins looks like a dreamer. A 
sleepy dreamer. He is tall and lank and blond in a sandy 
kind of way; he walks languidly (so as not to disturb 
the dreams) and drums nervously with his long fingers as 

he talks. He affects bright shirts and slacks, invariably 
appears before a first-night "audience" with a first-class 
case of jitters, proof that he obviously has worked right 
up to show time to create some new fashion. For Hopkins 
is a tireless worker. Before a showing he often works 
twenty hours at a stretch, supervising final details and 
bringing dreams to reality. He makes 1000 hats a year 
for the forty retail stores which buy his entire collection 
and sell them exclusively in a city; this season he will 
create an extra 200 originals for the famous Adrian fash- 
ions . . and still he will find time for a select custom 
business for the woman who wants an original designed 
just for her. 

"And since we did hats for our first motion picture . . 
Columbia's 'Cover Girl' . . we've been busy with scores 
of new productions, projecting hat styles 'way into the 
future," says Hopkins, who still gives the impression of 
wondering at his own phenomenal success. 

For his is a real success story: A native Calif ornian 
whose hat sales in one year totaled a million dollars. 
From the very beginning he catered to a select clientele 
. . wouldn't even attend women who wore slacks! . . and 
made delectable bonnets for Beverly Hills society women. 
For years there was hardly a wedding in his "hometown" 
that didn't boast of hats-by-Hopkins, and the genteel in- 


troduction to a distinguished career had begun. Then 
lovely Jeanette MacDonald became his first celebrity-cus- 
tomer, five years passed without benefit of press agent 
and he became one of the most talked-about stylists of 
them all. 

Today Keneth Hopkins has moved just two blocks from 
his original location, but he's on the top of the world as 
far as style recognition. His customers read like a Who's 
Who of the country . . distinguished women like the Mmes. 
Alan Marshall, J. Langford Stack, Walter G. McCarty, the 
best-dressed Slim (Mrs. Howard) Hawks . . Jane Wyman, 
Loretta Young, Ginger Rogers, Olivia de Havilland, Lauren 
Bacall, and (singers always love his symphonious hats) 
Susanna Foster, Katherine Grayson, Deanna Durbin and 
la MacDonald. 

Keneth Hopkins bases his success upon his functional 
outlook on fashion: Millinery created for a way of life. 
Careerist, socialite, dramatic stars, all have their special 
prerequisites for fashion. Hopkins takes inspiration right 
out of the blue . . finds modern life, its people, travel oppor- 
tunities and situations reason enough to create hats to 
glorify a woman. Maybe a piece of fabric, a dramatic pic- 
ture or a subtle play will give him ideas for a certain 
fashion treatment . . but the woman and the way she lives 
is his real inspiration. 

Here let it be said that Keneth Hopkins is a stylist, a 
colorist . . not a mere trimmer-of-hats. Every one of the 
Hopkins creations must be able to stand the "basic" test: 
Every shape must be true and balanced and perfect enough 
to be good in plain black, sans feathers and fuss. It's 
the sculptured shape that is always prophetic and new. 
Once Gloria Swanson insisted on a gigantic hat, despite 
her tiny size. The Hopkins trick of slashing a brim or tilt- 
ing it just so-so to give it lightness and buoyancy made 
it structurally right for her small figure. 

"Hopkins is like an architect," friends say . . he builds 
hats. "He's like a chef," others describe him . . he seasons 
his millinery with rare spice and sweetness. 

This season? It's the pert look, according to Hopkins. 
Hats will be worn forward, or with a side tilt. They'll be 
womanly, uncluttered, vibrant . . they'll fit securely on 
shortly cropped tresses, they'll be crisp and delectable. 
Dinner hats are the big news, with the Irene Castle bonnet 
suggesting a conversational series. Pink plum and nutmeg 
are two favorite new colors Keneth Hopkins is sponsoring 
for the season ahead. 

This famous designer believes men like to talk about 
hats, because here they make their easiest entry into the 
feminine world of fashion. They can talk learnedly about 
some exciting new hat, laugh at or love it. If they're shy 
they'll say a hat is lovely; if they're bold, say it's funny. 

As we selected Keneth Hopkins originals for these fashion 
pages, we were tempted to try them on. Hopkins laughed 
at our temerity, laughed off objections that "we can't- 

"Why not?" said he. "You have a head, haven't you?" 

Demure: Velvet Flowers 

Dashing: Drama of Feathers 

Romantic: Sweetheart Lace 

Flirtatious: Fine Feathers 



emurely nostalgic, Emma Domb's moire gown, sizes 10 to 16, about $35 ; right, 
Bill Kopp's dramatic bustle-back satin-striped taffeta, sizes 10 to 16, under 

Siren-sweet formal of slipper satin, elegance of line and fabric with single 
large rose at neckline: Marbert. Sizes 10 to 16, it's about $50. 



Sectional sofa in rhythm print inspires color treatment of entire living room 

Unique console table and lamp are features of roomy entran 

Extension table in dining area faces unimpaired two-sided 

a heavenly home for your family? 


the californian introduces 

it here . . in redwood, ilass, brick 

and beautiful furnishings 

Grouping of eosy chairs in bedrooms is a decorator's "must" loy| 

"H Willi 


Smart, clean line and window space are emphasized in exterior view 

There's a hegira in Hollywood . . as in all Cali- 
fornia . . from the large, traditional mansion to 
the small, contemporary home. There's flight from 
the period-furnished, two-story servant problem. And the 
motivating factor, in addition to responsibility and the 
cost of keep, is the increasing desire to live in the casual, 
comfortable California Way. 

Hollywood Riviera is a few miles from the film city, 
but perched as it is on a high plateau overlooking the 
blue Pacific, it is the locale for a low-roofed redwood 
house you'll love . . a house that's simpler to build than 
many, easier to clean than most, and more apt to be the 
hub of enjoyable living for all. The office of John 
Lindsay and Associates designed it, and W. & J. Sloane 
provided furnishings that are colorful and lush. 

The house itself covers less than 1700 square feet, 
but a large outdoor dining and sunning area, porches 
and garage up the total footage to more than 2500, with 
a construction cost above $16,000, depending, of course, 
on the type of interior finish. Located on a 132-foot 
frontage lot, it commands a view of the jutting headland 
of the Palos Verdes Estates, the dim blue outline of 
Catalina Island, the crescent bay beach cities of Redondo, 
Hermosa, Manhattan, and the Santa Monica-Malibu hills 
some forty miles away. If you were to select a lot for 
this dream house, plan on a level site at least 80 by 91, 
The garage can be attached in front if there's need to 

conform to different, but comparable dimensions. 

The architecture and decor could be called "commer- 
cial modern" . . in a completely complimentary tone. 
Built to sell, it embodies many of the niceties you have 
known. "Its bones don't show" is one way of saying 
that the structure and its beautiful furnishings are transi- 
tional . . a compromise . . between the period-type 
house that is on its way out in California, and the 
starkly modern structure that is fostered by the school 
of Frank Lloyd Wright. The fact that this home leans 
far. and comfortably, toward modern design makes it 
even more practical to build and to live in. 

John Lindsay used an exterior siding of redwood . . 
ideal for the salty, tangy air of the beach. Steel girders 
support a "life-time" roof of half-inch concrete shakes, 
and radiant heating insures an even flow of warmth 
throughout the house. A curving driveway sweeps past 
the front entrance and extends into the garage. Here 
a door opens directly into the kitchen . . handy thing. 

To capture every view, 30 feet of solid glass panels 
were placed along the ocean side, and the five rooms 
. . six, counting the dining area of the big room . . are 
amply supplied with windows to admit maximum sun 
and air. Not a window opens! Beneath steel-sashed 
panels of glass, reaching from the ceiling almost to the 
floor, are panels of wood which open from the inside, 
protected by screening and louvres. They provide ade- 
quate ventilation, yet do not disturb at any time a full- 
window view. Off-white rayon casement curtains are 
used throughout, flecked with color and sufficiently heavy 
to serve as blinds. 

Decorator Ida Lambert selected the furnishings, many 
of them with a dual purpose. To the right of the entrance 
is a console table which opens up to double size. On 
it is a brass base lamp with bottle green shade. Just 
beyond is a handsome, tooled-leather Adams chest, with 
doors and shelves, which has become a china closet. 
The blonde oak dining table has an extension for extra 
guests, while the wooden octagonal pedestal actually is 
a bar. Hidden in a closet beside the fireplace are a 



Magnavox and controls for the radiant heat. 

Dominating the living room is a large sectional sofa 
. . a real conversation piece . . sporting a quilted rhythm 
print which sets the color scheme of the room in green, 
coral, lime and driftwood tones. Walls are bottle green, 
the ceiling has a panelled effect, the string broadloom 
rug of dark green extends from the hall. The large sofa, 
dividing the living room from the dining area, is lighted 
by brown cupid lamps and faces a bleached wood coffee 
table which reminds you of a section of surfboard. The 
fireplace of evenly laid red brick features a picture- 
frame effect of satin aluminum . . a unique touch that 
will be widely copied . . and bronze horsehead andirons 
provide the grate. Interior planting, a picture or two 
and shelves for books and phonograph records complete 
the decoration. 

The dual role of furniture usefulness also extends 
to the den where the sofa is really a hide-a-bed for over- 
night guests. Driftwood-toned walls are panelled and 
a light well is dropped from the panelled ceiling. A 
clean-lined desk, red leather and quilted linen chair, 
book shelves and lamp add to the livability of this room 
that is always so popular in every home. 

A custom-made headboard with shelves adorns the 
double bed in the master suite. Reading lamps in the 
upholstered posts are revealed by door panels. And a 
gray quilted spread on the bed is placed over a char- 
treuse dust ruffle which matches the two chartreuse arm- 
less chairs near the magazine table. Gray is repeated 
in the horse lamp and antique gray shade. The fact that 
there are two comfortable chairs, a table and lamp is 
indicative of what's happening to modern bedrooms. A 

conversational grouping of furniture in each one is as 
important as if it appeared in a den. The windows, solid 
on two sides of the room, have identical casement cur- 
tains, and when opened form graceful frames for the 
view of the bay shore and rising hills. 

The guest bedroom, with rose coral rug and light green 
walls, has black lacquer-finish twin beds, bureau base 
and chests. Aluminum planter lamps with black base 
have black velvet shades for further drama, and the 
ocean-side wall, again, is of solid glass. 

Convenience in entertaining makes for a happy Cali- 
fornia home, and this particular plan places the kitchen 
adjacent a trellis-covered outside dining room, a paved 
space ideal for sun bathing, lounging, outdoor games 
or for enjoying meals in the open from breakfast to late 
supper. The barbecue grill uses the same chimney as 
the fireplace in the living room, which is an advantage 
in that the smoke cannot reach the dining area and the 
actual cooking operations are separate from the dining 
space. The natural wood table has green canvas-up- 
holstered benches, and nearby are a comfortable chaise 
with chartreuse pad of sail cloth, two lounge chairs of 
similar material, matching ottomans, occasional chairs, 
table lamp and butler's cart. 

Interesting variation in the modern kitchen is the laun- 
dry bay behind the stove and a serving counter at the 
end of the sink. Dutch double curtains in green apple 
chintz blend with the citron-colored walls. A Dutch door 
leads to the out-of-doors area, making the kitchen as 
accessible as the "next room." 

Here you have a complete pattern for living . . in the 
California Way. 

this compact plan has every 
constructional advantage . . 
with none of the monotony of 
many "ready-to-build" ideas 

The outdoor porch is in effect an outdoor living room with comfortable chairs and all the accoutrements for informal entertaining 

The well-lighted den is a familiar focal point for the family • Streamlined kitchen with every facility . . no servants needed 



• • 


of TTxl 



























SIZES 9 TO 17, ABOUT $25 



The Quality Of Change 

by Kenneth Ross 

ONE QUALITY more basic in the 
long tradition of painting than color, 
line, value, or pigment itself, is the 
quality of change. Yet it is this very 
quality, making the history of art a 
fascinating panorama, which has for so 
long divided the artist and the public. 
One hundred years after Christ, the 
younger Pliny wrote: "Though I ac- 
knowledge myself an admirer of the 
ancients, yet I am very far from de- 
spising, as some affect to do, the genius 
of the moderns, nor can I suppose that 
nature in these later ages is so worn 
out as to be incapable of any valuable 

This statement was made some 3,000 
years after the art of the Egyptians 
had experienced a radical transforma- 
tion. Some 1,800 years after the obser- 
vation, a painter named Pablo Picasso 
said "With the exception of a few paint- 
ers who are opening new horizons to 
painting, young painters today don't 
know which way to go. Instead of tak- 
ing up our researches in order to react 
clearly against us, they are absorbed 
with bringing the past back to life . . 
when truly the whole world is open be- 
fore us, everything waiting to be done, 
not just redone. Why cling desperately 
to everything that has already fulfilled 
its promise?" 

Fortunately for future generations, 
the fertility of this man's creative 
genius has provided the most varied 
retrospective to be found within the 
art of a single man. Yet, it is this one 
quality which has made him the least 
understood and perhaps the most de- 
spised artist of his time. 

That he could have been a most 
popular painter has been evidenced by 
periodical bursts of fairly objective 
painting. One of these periods in which 
he reveals to all his true genius and 
makes it so difficult for his mortal 
enemies to dispense with him entirely, 
is the Harlequin Period. A fine exam- 
ple in this group is the "Two Acrobats 
and a Dog" which hangs in the en- 

Pablo Picasso's "Two Acrobats And a Dog" has been outstanding among the fine paintings 
on exhibition at the new Modern Institute of Art in Beverly Hills. His Harlequin Period mas- 
terpiece permanently hangs in the Santa Barbara home of art patron Wright Ludington. 

trance hall at Wright Ludington's San- 
ta Barbara home, and which was seen 
by more than 10,000 people at the 
opening exhibition of the Modern In- 
stitute of Art in Beverly Hills. 

The painting in gouache on card- 
board was done in Paris in 1905 when 
Picasso was 24 years old. At that time 
Cezanne had one more year to live. Van 
Gogh, Gaugin, Manet, and most of the 
Impressionists had passed on. Dali was 
crying in his crib at Figuiras, Spain, 
and the Fauves (Wild Beasts), led by 
Matisse, were holding their first sensa- 
tional exhibit at the Salon d'Automne. 
Picasso, later to direct the main trend of 
the entire modern movement, had not 
yet influenced anyone. 

The Harlequin Period was a brief 
one, lasting less than a year, but when 
one reviews Picasso's productivity in 
this short span, it has the appearance 
of a life work. To this year must be 
relegated several hundred drawings and 
paintings, sixteen drypoints and etch- 
ings, and a series of bronzes. The work 
is characterized by a brief interlude of 
apparent pathos and composure. The 
line is delicate and sensitive, the color 
soft and harmonious. There are no 
implications of the brutality of the 
Guernica. There are no indications to- , 
day of what he will do tomorrow; yet, 
throughout his entire productivity there 
is the continuitv of a valid and con- 
tinuing art tradition. 














our yhoice 

Ken Sutherland's suit in Hoffman woolen is the ultimate in fashion co- 
ordination . . . keyed to Gold Rush color schemes, shown here in Discovery 
Red. Select separate pieces to mix or match. Sizes 10 to 20. under $60 
at Carson's, Chicago; Neal's, Boston; J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles. Worn 
here by Rosalie Calvert, appearing in "Neptune's Daughter," an M.G.M. 
Technicolor comedy. Suzy Lee hats, and Henderson umbrella to match. 




by frances anderson 

f\ emember all the fuss last Christmas-time 
about the Petrillo ban? Well, it's still on and 
we bet you haven't given it a thought in 
months. Its effect has been insidious insofar 
as general acceptance of inferiority goes, and 
otherwise regrettable . . for listeners, musi- 
cians, and the union itself. 

Musicians are probably the hardest hit; 
but it's their union and they're with it . . 
perhaps to their ultimate good. For listeners 
and record-buyers, the goods and bads of 
the situation are harder to evaluate. A great 
advantage has been the influx of and em- 
phasis on foreign imports of such musical 
and mechanical excellence as to give native 
record companies serious competition, particu- 
larly, of course, in the realm of classical and 
symphonic music. The work of English 
Decca and English Columbia, the superb out- 
put of Italian Cetra and others . . well, all 
too often the nod goes to the import where 
it competes with an American version. 

The one big trouble in both departments, 
serious and popular, is that because of hasty 
recording to beat the ban, so much music 
that is poor mechanically and artistically has 
been delivered on wax, shellac and vinylite 
to the gullible public that now something 
only halfway good sounds terrific. 

With this in mind, judgment on new issues 
is relative . . "good'' means good for the pres- 
ent time; "only fair" would be terrible in 
more fruitful record years. 


Debussy: "Quartet in G minor Op. 10," 
played by the Paganini Quartet. We take it 
back, this would be good in any year. Lovely 
tonally, appealing and atmospheric, this 
chamber music is well handled by one of 
today's best string groups. Victor. 

Copland: "Four Dance Episodes from 
Rodeo," recorded by Dallas Symphony Or- 
chestra, Antal Dorati, conductor. Gay, re- 
freshing, indigenous, this is ballet music to 
delight practically everybody; and Dorati 
knows what to do with it. Victor. 

"Louis Armstrong All Stars" is, we under- 
stand, a collection of numbers actually re- 


Leading in popularity in the nation's record 
shops and departments: 


Brahms: German Requiem. Apparently a large 
segment of the population has been eagerly 
awaiting a recording of this work. Both Victor's 
version, conducted by Robert Shaw, with Eleanor 
Steber and James Pease as soloist, and Colum- 
bia's European-recorded interpretation are be- 
ing snapped up. 


"My Happiness" is the current top tune, with 
honors about evenly divided among the waxings 
of Ella Fitzgerald, the Pied Pipers, and Joe and 
Sandra Steele, who introduced it. 
Going strong: Ray McKinley's "Arrose" and "You 
Came A Long Way From St. Louis"; "Confess," 
in both the Doris Day and Patty Page renditions. 
Going, going and not regretted: "Woody Wood- 

corded during jazz concerts. Hence, a lively 
spontaneity and imaginativeness . . and, of 
course, a group of virtuoso musicians. The 
numbers are classics, "Rockin' Chair," "St. 
James Infirmary," "Ain't Misbehavin' " and 
others. Victor. 

Jolson Album No. 3. Now that we've re- 
discovered him, this boy can do no wrong. 
You'll enjoy his typical and irresistible 
handling of "I Want A Gal," "Rainbow Round 
My Shoulder," "Red, Red Robin," etc. Decca. 

"Mood Ellington" . . a new collection of 
tunes by the Duke is always news and always 
interesting. Some are better than others in 
this new and lush aggregation, but it's all 
worth a listen. Columbia. 

"Keys to Romance" is Buddy Cole's latest 
album, featuring enduring favorites such as 
"The Moon Was Yellow," "Sophisticated 
Lady," "When Orchids Bloom In The Moon- 
light," and others. This is relaxed, very pleas- 
ant piano. Capitol. 

Arthur Godfrey's latest . . like olives, a 
question of taste . . pairs "Turkish Delight" 
with "Trail of the Lonesome Pine." Both 
funny if you like the brand, and the former 
on the shady side verbally. Columbia. Spike 
Jones, while we're in the comedy depart- 
ment, does wonderfully hysterical things to 
"I Kiss Your Hand, Madame" and "I'm Get- 
ting Sentimental Over You." Victor. 

Vaughan Monroe's old, tired, beat-up song 

Jo Stafford's conscious flatting by about a 
quarter-tone to get a. melancholy effect. 

Cowboy songbirds. 

All the broken-down jazz-shouters dug up 
to compete with the few examples of au- 
thentic jazz talent now extant. 

Serious musicians who try to get clubby 
with the proletariat by recording composi- 
tions unworthy of their talent. Conversely, 
popular entertainers who chin themselves on 
music miles above them. 


by hazel alien pulling 

"DRUNK! Aye, drunk with avarice! Be- 
hold the picture; California in her cups!" 
These are the opening words and the keynote 
of an interpretation of gold rush days by 
California's earliest gold rush historian, Hu- 
bert Howe Bancroft. Writing in the 1880's, 
Bancroft gathered his data directly from par- 
ticipants in the great Western drama of 1848 
and the ensuing years. His California Inter 
Pocula (828p.) still stands, a challenge to 
historians to disprove and disavow. 

In panoramic sweep Bancroft pictures Cali- 
fornia teeming with gold-hungry men who 
sought to fill their pockets while they dreamed 
of homes left lonely in the East. He traces 
the opening of mine after mine, the mush- 
rooming of towns, and the lawlessness of men 
in a lawless land. He limns the lives of those 
who fought to bring order and security to 
chaotic, greed-filled days. He tells, finally, 
of the beginnings of stable government as men, 
some rich, some poor at the close of the 
orgy, settled down to reap more prosaic re- 
wards from California's vast kingdom of vir- 
gin, untilled land. 

Bancroft's account presents some data since 
discredited. But, in. his nugget-like sug- 

gestions later scholars have found food 
for thought. They have explored further, 
have added monographic studies which sub- 
stantiate in part, and in part overthrow, the 
earlier interpretation. Among those later 
studies are several worthy of a place beside 
the monumental Bancroft work. Owen C. 
Coy's Gold Days (Los Angeles, Powell, 1929. 
381p. $3.75) ; Joseph Henry Jackson's Cali- 
fornia Gold; the Beginning of Mining in the 
Far West (Harvard University, 1947. 380p. 
$4.50) are examples. Each study, factual and 
brief, brings a clear conception of what the 
gold rush meant to those who participated 
in it and to the state, the nation, and the 
world at large. 


But, better than interpretations by scholars, 
however ably done, are original accounts of 
those old exciting days. Written by the men 
and women who lived through the events 
noted, these records hold the flavor and pre- 
sent the facts as no retelling can. Try Alonzo 
Delano's Across the Plains and Among the 
Diggings, reprinted in 1936 from his 1854 
report (Elmira, New York, Wilson- Erikson. 
192p. $4.50). This account is a classic in 
the field for its straight-forward story of the 
overland trek and of life in the mines. 

J. Goldsborough Bruff's voluminous record, 
Gold Rush Journals (Columbia University. 2 
vols. $15), edited by Georgia Reed and Ruth 
Gaines, and published for the first time in 
1944, is another fine account. Bruff's journey 
began in "Washington City" in 1849 and 
ended in the mines in 1851. His story, one 
of the most extensive of all, is accompanied 
by original sketches of places and events and 
filled with notes about the people who, like 
him, made the "search for the Golden 

For a woman's view of frontier, gold-crazed 
California read Sarah Royce's recollections 
published in 1932 as A Frontier Lady (Yale. 
144p. $2). Sarah Royce made the overland 
journey in 1849 and lived to raise her family 
in the mining area. A similar view is pre- 
sented in the letters that Louise Knapp Clappe 
wrote to her sister in Massachusetts from the 
mines on Feather River in 1851-1852. These 
letters were republished in 1933 by the Grab- 
horn Press of San Francisco under the title 
of California in 1851; the Letters of Dame 
Shirley (2 vols. $12.50). Both the recollec- 
tions and the letters give a view of gold rush 
days unsensed by the male element of the 


The Gold Rush Song Book (San Fran- 
cisco, Colt Press, 1940. 55p. $2), edited by 
Eleanora Black and Sidney Robertson, is an- 
other illuminating view of the period. This 
group of twenty-five authentic ballads, com- 
plete with words and music and sung by 
the men who dug the gold, provides the 
overtone that explains much of the psychology 
that lay behind the phenomenon that we know 
as "California's Gold Rush!" 

Latecomer among our Gold Rush books is 
one that looks at the period from a per- 
spective of a hundred years and from the 
vantage point of a gold rush ghost town. 
W. A. Chalfant, publisher of the Inyo Regis- 
ter, has given us his vfew gained from a life- 
time of living close to the legends, the his- 
tories and the old towns, now in ruins. Gold, 
Guns, and Ghost Towns (Stanford Univer- 
sity, 1947. 175p. $3) relives in modern in- 
terpretation the days of gold in California. 

Ed. note: If you would like Dr. Pulling s 
interpretation or recommendation on further 
Californiana, please write to her in care of 
The Californian. 



Zooming to California this September? 
You'll find it a paradoxical month, 
really a second summer, with some 
days turning sharply cool in pure de- 
fiance. It's a busy month, too, so you'll 
have to plan your wardrobe with ex- 
tra care. 

Just consider that you can swim in 
the ocean, enjoy Indian summer in the 
mountains . . enjoy starlight operas 
and symphonies under the stars at 
Hollywood Bowl . . go to the races at 
Del Mar . . "take in" the numerous 
County Fairs, and the Fiestas. 

Then . . start out with a basic suit 
with a choice of blouses: tailored, 
dressy, and one just plain cool. Actual- 
ly, this changeabout can take you any- 
where in good style, but you'll have 
frequent use for a dark crepe or may- 
be a sheer wool as a mid-season choice. 
One of the new dark-hued cottons will 
prove both smart and comfortable for 
the dog days ahead. 

Bring swimsuits and play clothes if 
you're beachward bound ; pedal pushers 
or slacks for the mountains . . and a 
coat for evenings wherever you go! 
Don't forget sturdy walking shoes for 
there are so many places to see . . add 
sun glasses so you'll look like a native. 
Just remember, anything can happen 
in California in September, so come 




% Sunshine 



fir your Cafifomm way of Q^£ 


left: Cashmere Slipon, 13.00 
shown with Cashmere Car- 
digan, 17.00 
right: Grape Leaf Quiltie,14.00 


For color folder showing other Catalina Sweaters, write Dept. 
577, Catalina, Inc., 443 S. San Pedro St., Los Angeles 13, Calif. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 



•' »»# •* •'• '*• 

by glen n s. dumke 



Men . . young men . . were the Californians of a 
century ago. There were virtually no ladies, and 
very few young women in the California that achieved a 
hairy-chested statehood in 1850. 

The reason was simple. The Gold Rush had precipi- 
tated a sudden migration into the w 7 estern wilderness. In 
less than two years the goldfields had attracted a popula- 
tion great enough to bring California into the Union. But 
it was a masculine population that stood knee-deep in the 
icy streams of the Feather River Canyon panning for 
gold; or sweated and toiled with pick and shovel under the 
broiling sun at Placerville. feverishly taking the gold from 
the earth; or emptied its pokes of gold dust and nuggets 
on the counters of the saloons along San Francisco's 
Barbary Coast. It was a rugged trip from Boston to Sut- 
ter's Fort. It was a rugged existence when you got there. 
Only rugged, virile young men were fitted with the courage 
and stamina to be Californians of a century ago. 

But this is the story of two ladies who did appear in- 
congruously upon this masculine scene. One was a lady 
of letters, the other a lady of politics: The wife of a doctor, 
writing under the name of "Dame Shirley." produced 
a series of classic letters to her sister in Massachusetts: 
and Jessie Benton Fremont, wife of the general, named 
the Golden Gate and worked skilfully behind the scenes, 
making her strong hand felt in California's destinv. 

The genteel "Dame Shirley" and the socially well-placed 
Jessie Benton Fremont were, indeed, anachronisms on the 
scarcely recognizable California scene of one hundred years 
ago. The frontier of those days offered little to attract 
women of refinement, and less to interest them once they 
had arrived. Truly it required a firm will ynd an insistent 
love of culture on the part of a woman to prevent her 
from being dragged down to the level of her surround- 
ings. Many lady pioneers simply did not have the spiritual 
stamina to cope with drafty cabins, lack of reading matter, 
absence of urban life, and the all-around crudeness of 
daily existence. 

But most circumstances are best known by their excep- 
tions, and even in this male frontier a few women came, 
and of the few. a handful made names and reputations 
for themselves. "Dame Shirley," whose real name was Mrs. 
Louise Amelia Knapp Smith Clappe, was a frail little 
blonde woman who come from Massachusetts. She ob- 
tained an excellent education, and did some traveling be- 
fore her marriage to a young physician. Dr. Fayette Clappe. 
In 1849 the newlyweds joined the argonauts in going to 
California, where the gold rush and a bustling frontier 
promised quick and spectacular wealth. 

For a time they stayed in San Francisco. That city, 
during the gold rush, was an almost unbelievable boom 
town. Quarters were the smallest coins in circulation, 
and fortunes were made and lost with such rapidity that 
foolhardy optimism was the order of the day. One month 
the city would be out of flour, with the price $100 a 
sack, and businessmen would hurriedly ship in cargo after 
cargo of it until tardy unfortunates were caught in a 
glutted merket. and the now valueless product was dumped 
and packed in San Francisco's muddy streets to form make- 
shift paving. Another menth would see a shortage of hard- 
ware, and one bad guesser saw his cargo of stoves tamped 
down in another muddy stretch to form a more solid bottom 
for the city's busy traffic. Amid this chaotic madness Dr. 
Clappe started his practice of medicine. But his own 
health gave way, and he was forced to seek higher and 
dryer country. 

Amelia waited in San Francisco while he searched out a 
suitable location in the northern diggings. He found one. 
finally, at Rich Bar. on one of the tributaries of the 
Feather River, and returned to escort his wife to her new 
home. At the diggings, her classic letters to her sister 
were produced, and the first of them relates the picturesque 
and interesting journey through Marysville by mule and 
stage to the little mining community. There one miner 
had unearthed thirty-three pounds of gold in eight days, 
and another had panned out S1500 in one wash of gravel! 
Rich Bar started out by living up to its name. 

"Dame Shirley's" pen recorded the scene in the light 
good humor of the educated woman she was. and with the 
delicate refinements that might be expected of a New Eng- 
land gentlewoman. She wrote of this hill country: 

"The moon was just rising as we started. The air 
made me think of fairy festivals, of living in the woods 
always, with the green-coated people for playmates, it 
was so wonderfully soft and cool, without the least 
particle of dampness. A midsummer's night in the 
leafy month of June . . could not be more enchant- 
ingly lovely. 

"We sped merrily onward until nine o'clock, making 
the old woods echo with song and story and laughter, 
for F. was unusually gay. and I was in tiptop spirits. 
It seemed to me so funny that we two people should 
be riding on mules, all by ourselves, in these glori- 
ous latitudes, night smiling down so kindly upon 
us. and. funniest of all. that we were going to live 
in the mines! In spite of my gaiety, however, I 
now began to wonder why we did not arrive at our 
intended lodgings. F. reassured me by saying that 


when we had descended this hill or ascended that, 
we should certainly be there. But ten o'clock came; 
eleven, twelve, one, two ! . . I began to be frightened, 
and besides that, was very sick with a nervous head- 
ache. At every step we were getting higher and higher 
into the mountains, and even F. was at last compelled 
to acknowledge that we were lost! 

"About two o'clock the next day we struck the 
main trail, and. meeting a man . . the first human 
being that we had seen since we left Bidwell's . . 
were told that we were seven miles from the Berry 
Creek House, and that we had been down to the North 
Fork of the American River, more than thirty miles 
out of our way! This joyful news gave us fresh 
strength, and we rode on as fast as our worn-out 
mules could go." 

It was at Rich Bar, and in another camp, Indian Bar, 
that Dame Shirley made herself one of California's first 
women of culture. Her letters, couched in the graceful, 
semi-formal, and sometimes extravagant phraseology of 
Victorian days, when letter-writting was a fine art, peer 
deep into the life of the mining camp and search out its 
basic character. Dame Shirley's sensitiveness to human 
nature make her account of a pioneer mother's death and 
the consequent orphaning of her ten-month-old infant the 
basis for Bret Harte's story, "The Luck of Roaring Camp," 
and another incident in the Shirley Letters gave Harte the 
idea for the "Outcasts of Poker Flat." Amelia also had 
a sense of humor, evidenced by her delight in a miner's 
statement to her husband about a neighbor . . "Magnificent 
woman, that, sir! A wife of the right sort, she is. Why, 
she earnt her old man nine hundred dollars in nine weeks, 
clear of all expenses, by washing! Such women ain't 
common, I tell you. If they were, a man might marry, 
and make money by the operation." 

Like most argonauts, the Clappes found life in the dig- 
gings none too profitable, and they returned to San Fran- 
cisco. Finally widowed, Amelia became a high school 
teacher, but continued her prominence in the city's social 
and cultural life by holding a continuing salon for the 
great and near-great who ventured to the bay city. Late 
in life, she moved back to New England and took a trip 
to Europe, one of her life-long ambitions. When she died 
in 1906 she left the impress of her personality upon the 
still youthful California, and for its everlasting treasure 
the cultural heritage of the "Dame Shirley" letters. 

Her book, The Shirley Letters from California Mines in 
1851-52, was published in several editions after her twen- 
ty-three epistles had first appeared in a California journal 
of the fifties, The Pioneer Magazine. Her reputation stands 
deservedly as that of the first real woman of letters of 
American California, and she is rated highly not because 
there were no competitors, but because the quality of her 
work entitles her to compete in a much more sophisticated 
literary circle. 

But women of letters were not the only ones who raised 
the standards of early California. There were also women 
of action and politics. Head and shoulders above all others 
in this category stands the "immortal wife," Jessie Benton 
Fremont, whose determination fostered a career. 

Jessie Benton was the daughter of one of the fire-eaters of 
Congress during the great years of territorial expansion 
and Manifest Destiny. Her father, Senator Thomas Hart 
Benton of Missouri, first duelled Andrew Jackson, then be- 
came his devoted follower, and was an acknowledged 
leader of western legislators. Jessie inherited his intelli- 
gence and his will, and applied them both to furthering 
the career of her husband, John Charles Fremont. 

Fremont was a professional soldier, and he made him- 
self a popular hero by participating in and leading some of 
the most famous expeditions to the Far West. It was Fre- 
mont who traced the wild country between the Rockies 
and the Sierra, the Columbia River and the Mojave Desert. 
Variously nicknamed "A man unafraid," "The Pathfinder," 
and "The West's Greatest Adventurer," Fremont conducted 
no less than five expeditions to the western frontier. It was 
the third of these that made him a participant in the an- 
nexation of California and gave his wife, Jessie, the oppor- 
tunity to help make history. 

In 1845, Fremont, at the head of a detachment of sixty- 
two men, set off from Salt Lake. He struck due west into 
northern California, explored the Humboldt Valley, and 
finally turned south to Sutter's Fort . . at the site of present- 
day Sacramento. Meanwhile a portion of his party had 
entered California by one of its southern gateways. Walker 
Pass, and rejoined the main party in the north. California 
was still under Mexican domination, although war talk 
was rife, and the Mexican officials at the provincial capi- 
tal, Monterey, grew alarmed at the size and militarv bear- 
ing of Fremont's expedition. As he was passing through 
Salinas he was notified by Mexican government authorities 
that they would appreciate his early departure. 

Fremont, knowing trouble was brewing between the 
United States and Mexico, and wishing to be on the ground 
when it exploded into action, was reluctant to obey the 
order. He fortified his encampment on Hawk's Peak, near 
Salinas, and stayed there three days, braving the wrath 
of the Mexican officials. Then he unwillingly withdrew 
and headed north, his pace slowed by the hope that some- 
thing would happen before he left California. 

He led his men up the beaten trail toward Oregon, and 
had reached Klamath Lake when he was overtaken by a 
weary messenger from the East, Lieutenant Archibald 
Gillespie. Here Jessie Benton probably made history. Al- 
though no one 
knows exactly what 
was in the notes 
Gillespie handed 
Fremont, they con- 
tained a message 
which impelled 
Fremont to make 
an about face, re- 
trace his steps to 
the Sacramento 
River, and wait 
there until actual 
warfare did break 
out in the (Con- 
tinued on page 73) 

A tADY OF POLITICS: Jessie Benton Fremont, wife of General Fremont and daughter of Missouri Senator 
Thomas Hart Benton, helped to shape the destiny of California. The "immortal wife" played a great part 
in making Fremont the national hero he was, laboring diligently over his "memoirs," giving Fremont the 
political know-how from her father. It was Jessie Fremont who named San Francisco's Golden Gate. 



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graceful compliment to a lovely lady. At Neiman Marcus, Dallas; Filene's, Boston. 



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tabs on bodice and wide-sweeping skirt. At Gunther's, New York; City of Paris, San Francisco. 


ean louis of Columbia 


FOUR years ago Jean Louis came to Hol- 
lywood and its vast motion picture in- 
dustry at the behest and with the encour- 
agement of Miss Irene Dunne, who brought 
him fame for his startling creations in 
women's fashion. Today Jean Louis of 
Columbia Studios is known as one of 
Hollywood's foremost designers. Screen 
wardrobes for such stars as Janet Blair, 
Claudette Colbert and Irene Dunne are 
his work. He designed for Rita Hayworth in "Tonight and 
Every Night," and "Gilda." He fashioned the clothes for 
Janet Blair in "Tonight and Every Night"; for Miss Dunne 
in "Together Again" ; for Evelyn Keyes and Adele Jergens 
in "A Thousand and One Nights." Now, Jean Louis designs, 
on these pages, a suit-dress and a dramatic coat for you who 
read The Californian Magazine. 

In the course of his work Jean has created new fashions 
for the Duchess of Windsor, for Gertrude Lawrence. He holds 
to the maxim that women should dress to no set pattern . . 
only to their best advantage. But the designs he has created 
here, for you, are smart and functional . . the types of 
apparel that will accentuate your good points, play down 
a figure fault and dress you, stunningly, in the increasingly 
popular Calif ornian way! 

Pattern C-l 1 1 




Show your talents this fall by making a 

suit-dress and coat designed for you 

by Jean Louis of Columbia. Opposite page, 

Modes Royale pattern C-lll is 

a suit-dress, can be worn with scarf, 

sweater or blouse. We suggest you use 

Botany "Baronette," a lightweight 

wool crepe . . . 54" wide, $4.95 per yard. 

This page, dramatic coat Modes 

Royale pattern C-112, try 

Botany "Reedston" . . . 54" 

wide, $6.95 the yard. 

Just ask for Modes Royale 

customized patterns by 

number, sizes 12-20. 

You may write directly to 
The Californian Magazine, 
1020 South Main Street, 
Los Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, enclosing $2 for 
each pattern desired. 
Please indicate size. 

fashions for fall 

Pattern C-112 


•elles of the Gold Rush made history with "the 

form divine" ... modern California figure 

blends femininity and easy freedom. Above, power net garter 

' :lt, Hollywood-Maxwell, "Spider Web" bra by Star Fashions 
Right, eyelet embroidered bra, Olga Company 


California Cooks 


old brought fine food to San Francisco . . 
brought it to stay. And a visitor to the Bay 
City always is impressed by the fact that it is 
possible to eat, and eat beautifully, in almost any 
language. It all started with the cry of "Gold" . . a 
cry which no one seemed to miss. From every land 
the lure of sudden wealth prompted men to throw down 
the tools of their own trades, pick up shovels and get 
going . . to California. 

But you can't eat gold. Soon some of the less lucky 
of the adventurers discovered that their sauciers and 
their braziers, their soup pots and their cleavers were 
more valuable than their pickaxes. The fortunate miners 
. . and there were many of them . . would pay almost 
anything for good food. One San Franciscan menu 
dated 1849 lists eggs at a dollar each, stewed prunes 
at seventy-five cents, beer at two dollars, and a brandied 
peach at four dollars. Could it be that those men with 
empty stomachs and full gold pouches preferred the 
peach to the prunes? Actually there wasn't much food 
to cook. Sutter's farm had been one of the first seri- 
ous attempts at agriculture and what the rapacious squat- 
ters did to that venture didn't help the food supply. 
Still, though meat and vegetables and fruits were hard 
to come by, there was plenty of fish and plenty of 
foreigners who knew how to cook it in the 
manner of their fatherlands. Thus many classic 
fish dishes became everyday fare in those in- 
credible days . . the foundation of the haute 
cuisine that was to become such a part of 
San Francisco. 

But it wasn't just the dishes of other 
countries that San Francisco was to make 
famous. Those lusty men created many 
fine recipes of their own. One of them, 
Hangtown Fry, becomes more renown- 
ed as the years go by. Every time I 
take my hands off my ears I hear an- 
other story of how this oyster dish 
got its name. As I can't believe them 
all let's just assume that Hang- 
town, later renamed Placerville 
to soothe the tender feelings of 
its residents, had more than 
something to do with its chris- 

Select from three to a dozen 
oysters for each serving, de- 
pending upon their size. 
(The original dish was 
made with the tiny cop- 
pery - tasting California 
oyster). Dry them with 
a clean cloth or paper nap- 
kin, dip them in beaten egg and 
then in 'crumbs, and fry them 
in butter. When nicely and 
lightly browned on one side 
pour over them eggs (two 

to each serving) which have been slightly beaten with 
a little cream and some salt and pepper. Let cook a 
minute or two then turn the entire mixture as you would 
a pancake. Brown a bit on the other side and serve with 
crisp bacon. Of course like every other famous dish 
this one has a dozen variations, chief of which is the 
scrambling of the eggs separately and pouring them 
over the already fried oysters. In fact, the famous Hotel 
St. Francis Cook Book says this, and no more, in its 
directions for making Hangtown Fry: "Mix scrambled 
eggs with a dozen small fried California 
oysters." (There's a cook book for you, by 
the way . . at least if you're interested 
in fine food with a California flavor.) 
Another nice variation of this now 
classic recipe is served at the Good 
Fellows Grotto in Los Angeles. They 

; add green peppers and onions to their version. But 
I wonderful ! 

As the wealth of San Francisco grew the outside world 
| found that it could bring in foodstuffs and sell them at 
I fantastic prices. The miners, now flush with food as 
| well as money, called to the world for its finest chefs, 
its best recipes. And the world responded. So the sim- 
| pie fare of the mining camps, the slum gullion and the 
| flapjacks, were replaced by such distinguished foods as 
these cosmopolitan cooks could produce. 

Among these early chefs there were many from China, 
| and it was they who discovered that the native abalone 
was a rare delicacy. It is strange that it was more than 
fifty years later that it became popular with other na- 
tionalities, perhaps because no one else knew how to 
cook it. "Abel Ones," or "Ear Shells," were much used 
by the Chinese when San Francisco was booming. They 
served them in their restaurants and they dried them 
and shipped them back to China in such quantities that 
there was great danger of their disappearing altogether. 
Finally, when it was discovered that you didn't have to 
be Chinese to cook abalone, and, at the same time 
it was discovered that there were precious few left 
to cook, a law was passed forbidding their shipment 
out of the state. So, if you don't live in California and 
just can't wait until you visit here to taste them, there's 
just one thing to do: buy canned abalone. Of course 
it's not from California . . it's from Mexico, but as most 
of it is canned just over the border in Ensenada, it 
could have been California spawned. Canned abalone 
is found in Chinese grocery stores and in other stores 
that specialize in imported foods. Although this recipe 
for soup was not handed down from gold rush days it 
is safe to say that the Chinese in those days served one 
reasonably like it. 

Measure the juice from a can of abalone and add suffi- 
cient water to make two cups. (I mean a number two 
can of abalone which, I think, is the only way it is 
packed. The abalone trimmings are packed in a seven- 
ounce tin, and in California, but it's best to forget about 
them.) Add two cups of chicken stock which you, be- 
ing smart, will make with one of those chicken concen- 
trates now on the market. Next comes a tablespoon of 
soy sauce, a tablespoon of sherry and a piece of abalone 
the size of an egg cut into the size and shapes of kitchen 
matches. Heat and serve and take your bow. There will 
be some abalone meat left over, so make another Chinese 
dish with it. You'll have to name it. Fry a pork chop 
and cut it and the left-over abalone into strips, add some 
green pepper and celery cut the same way and heat the 
mixture (for three minutes) in a sauce made with one 
cup of chicken stock, a tablespoon of sherry or whiskey, 
and a tablespoon of cornstarch to thicken. Serve with 
rice for tomorrow's lunch. 

There were not only many Chinese restaurants in the 
early days of the bonanza, many of the mining camps 
had Chinese cooks. It is said that chop suey, unknown 
in China, was the brain child of one of these Oriental 
chefs. It seems that a horde of hungry men descended 
upon him long after meal time. His larder was all but 
empty, but as Chinese courtesy demanded that the guests 
be fed he whipped up a dish from dabs of this and 
that. Perhaps with hunger as a sauce the diners were 
vociferously enthusiastic and demanded to know what 
they were eating. The first name that came into the 
pig-tailed head was "chop suey" and so it still is today 
the darling of American-run Chinese restaurants. 

From the '49ers 

to present-day diners 

San Franciscans love good food 


One pound of breast of chicken, or of lean veal 
or pork is needed. (Chicken breasts may now be pur- 
chased in most communities and bean sprouts, complete 
with can, may be had in any grocery store of any size.) 
The meat is cut into thin strips and cooked in a quarter 
of a cup of cooking oil. Remove meat, then add the 
following ingredients to the pan in which the fat has 
been left: One green pepper, cut in strips, one onion, 
thinly sliced, then halved so that the rings will separate, 
some sliced mushrooms, six or eight depending on size, 
and a half cup of thinly sliced celery. Cook for two 
minutes then add two cups of drained (canned) or fresh 
bean sprouts and, if you can find them at a specialty 
food store, a few sliced water chestnuts and/or bamboo 
shoots, and the meat. Heat all together in the same 
old sauce: Two cups of chicken stock and two teaspoons 
of soy sauce thickened with a tablespoon of cornstarch 
which has been moistened in a tablespoon of cold water. 
Serve with rice. 

The San Franciscan boom was no temporary affair. 
Money continued to be made in mining, and in rail- 
roads, and in the "green gold" which was agriculture. 
Many famous restaurants flourished and the famous 
Palace Hotel was built. It was at the Palace that Oysters 
Kirkpatrick were created and named after Colonel Kirk- 
patrick, one time manager of that establishment, though 
some people do claim that the dish is but a refinement 
of an earlier one called "oyster salt roast" . . a favorite 
of the 49ers. 


Oysters on the half shell are needed for this . . allow- 
ing six to a person. Lay opened oysters (in the deep 
shell) on pie tins half filled with rock salt that has 
been preheated in the oven . . a tin for each serving. 
Squash the shells into the salt so that they won't tip 
and spill their precious juices. Mask each oyster with 
chili sauce, add a few flecks of chopped green pepper, 
cover with grated parmesan cheese, and top each oyster 
with a couple of two-inch pieces of bacon which have 
been partially cooked. (Sometimes this order is reversed: 
oyster, then bacon, then chili sauce and last the cheese. 
The choice is yours ! ) Put the pans in the oven . . a 
hot one . . and bake until the bacon finishes its crisping 
and the cheese is brown. 

One famous early San Franciscan dish that was not 
sea food was nonetheless served in a sea shell and thus 

Boil a young chicken in four cups of water along with 
an onion and a half teaspoon of whole pickling spice. 
Before it's too tender remove from the fire and allow 
it to cool in its own liquor, then remove the meat from 
the bones and cut it in cubes. Return the bones to the 
stock and cook until it is reduced to one cup. To this, 
strained, of course, add a cup of very heavy cream and 
thicken with a roux made with a tablespoon each of 
butter and flour. Add a half pound of sliced sauted 
mushrooms and, if you're as rich as were those old 
timers, a few sliced truffles. Now toss in the cut-up 
chicken and a jigger of sherry. Season with salt and 
white pepper and bind with the yolks of two eggs. Serve 
in cockle shells, the old recipe says. But what's the 
matter with scallop or even clam shells? Or serve it 
plain and call it Chicken d'Or . . it's rich enough . . 
my word for it. 

So it was in the beginning of good eating in San 
Francisco. Now it is even better. If it's grizzly bear 
steak or roast curlew you're wanting, you may go hungry, 
but any other dish of the gold rush, or of the later 
days of plush, will be found on San Francisco menus 
of today. And as new fare is created that, too, will ap- 
pear immediately in the Bay City. Is it any wonder 
that to dine in San Francisco is to return and dine 

a crain V 





IT'S NOT EASY to tell which of these 
lanky six-footers covers the course in 
par, but collectively their good groom- 
ing shows a very professional touch. 

As a woman this is to your best in- 
terests. In fact, today's knowing woman 
is quick to detect a budding style-in- 
terest in her beau . . and to encourage 
it. Although he is still a rarity, the 
man who knows why he wears what he 
wears is more apt to detect delicate 
subtleties in your fashion selections 
and to appreciate and compliment them. 
Give him the benefit of sound apparel 
advice everytime you can. 

To keep you up-to-date these are 
some of the latest menswear trends in 
sportswear. It might be a good idea to 
suggest them the next time the two of 
you take in a shopping tour. 

SPORTCOATS: The light chocolate 
brown unfinished worsted double- 
breasted sportcoat, far left, has the new 
long diagonal lapel which gives its 
wearer the illusion of added height. 

The houndstooth pattern is tradition- 
ally correct for sportswear. A very fine 
example of this plaid is shown, front 
and center, in an imported Scottish 
fabric with a new lapel with notches set 
slightly lower and finished with round- 
ed edges. Both coats are distinctively 
styled by M. Jackman & Sons. 

SWEATERS: Traditional, too, are 
sweaters that seem always right at the 
club. Combined with a blue light- 
weight sport shirt on the man, center, 
is a light beige cashmere sweater with 
long sleeves and v-neck. 

The "Schooner" shirt-sweater, right 
center rear, is in navy blue with long 
sleeves and wide-spread knit Kent col- 
lar. This is the newest version of the 
"Gaucho." These sweaters are made by 
famous Catalina Inc. 

SPORT SHIRTS: Two sport shirts 
finish the tableau. The ping-pong en- 
thusiast picks the "Rio," a gabardine 
shirt with a navy blue body and contrast- 
ing white placket and collar. It can be 
worn with either short sleeves or long. 
A shirt innovation is the "After 
Hours" sport shirt illustrated right fore- 
ground. It has an entirely new treat- 
ment to its collar which lies back from 
the neck without corners or breaks. 
The artist has the same shirt on the man 
with the houndstooth jacket. In this case 
the Windsor-knotted tie keeps the collar 
nicely closed. These new shirts are by 
Hollywood Rogue. 

These new fall fashions for men are probably 
available in your city. Address your in- 
quiries to Men's Fashion Editor, The Cali- 
fornian Magazine, for the names of stores 
which carry them. 

$27.50, postpaid. 
Ready to mail with our 
Money-Back Guarantee 


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If you could have a dream house, what would it be? 

WOULD it have a sheltered patio and inviting barbecue? Would it 
have a den, separate breakfast room and bar? Would it be full of the Cali- 
fornia manner that makes for easy, comfortable living? What would you 
like to see in a new, contemporary design? 

The Californian Magazine has retained Paul Laszlo, internationally 
famous designer of beautiful homes and furnishings, to create your house,! 
the Californian House, according to your desires and dictates . . the type 
of house you would like to own. All plans and renderings will be formu- 
lated from your suggestions, and will be presented in a forthcoming issue 
of The Californian. The house itself will be constructed on a choice lot 
in Brentwood, fashionable residential section of Los Angeles, and will be 
open for inspection upon completion . . and sponsored by The Californian! 

Laszlo has designed for Barbara Hutton, Sonja Henie, Gloria Vanderbilt 
Stokowski and Frank Borzage, among a long list of noted Californians. 
Tell us just what kind of house you'll want The Californian to be. Jot 
down your ideas, mail them to California Living Section, The Californian 
Magazine, 1020 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15. Let The Californian 
House grow, from the drawing board, with your ideas. Visit The Californian 
House when it's all built and ready to view. 


If you like to eat . . and who doesn't . . 
you'll revel in Helen Evans Brown's 
special and famous recipes in 


Write for Your Copy Today! 

• More than 100 unusual California recipes are 
consolidated on 40 beautifully printed pages _. . 
appetizing dishes that make cooking and eating 
a real pleasure . . a big event for you ! Try 
Helen Brown's Brentwood Orange Pancakes, her 
piping hot Onion Bread, Hamburgers En Bro- 
chette, Peas Paisano, Green Goddess Dressing. 

• Cooking is easy . . and fun . . when you have such wonderful 
recipes! Try them for your finest party . . serve them for your own 
family's taste treat. 

• CALIFORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep in your kitchen # . . it suggests the 
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• A Two-Dollar Value in good eating for only 50 cents! 

Write for Your Copy Today! 

Simply fill in the coupon and mail with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid 
by us, to 




To: The Californian, 1020 S. Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California 
Please mail my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS to: 






Enclosed is payment for □ copies. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 




by Marg§o Osherenko 


ith all of California's year 'round flowers it's still 
hard to forget that I once lived on the East Coast where 
flowers were very expensive. There are many times when it 
is nice either for time-saving or penny-pinching to be able 
to throw a bouquet together economically and quickly. Here's 
an arrangement that needs only three flowers . . three ex- 
quisite or exotic flowers, please. Pine branches and spider 
chrysanthemums or something with an affinity of form. 

The arrangement is an old one-two-three, but it never fails 
to grace an entrance hall, add charm to a tea table or cause 
comment in the parlor. It takes three green pine branches 
or something similar such as these branches from a fern pine 
tree (podocarpus elongatus to be technical). Three spider 
| chrysanthemums or shaggy dahlias, the loveliest, freshest 
you can find. The container is a three-legged brass chafing 
dish . . just the stand and one of the double boiler parts all 
highly polished. 

Use your biggest spike holder. Cut the three branches so they 
are tall, medium and low. The low one should be the fullest 
and the tall one the thinnest. Prune out some of the leaves 
or pine needles if necessary. Make the tall one stand so that 
it is perpendicular, the middle one bending to the right, the 
low one toward the left. See if you can make them look as 
though they all grow from the same spot like a plant or 

If your holder isn't heavy enough and starts to tip, then 
anchor the edge with another spike holder turned upside 
down. It is possible to anchor your holder before you start 
by sticking it to the container with oil clay or plasticine. 
This must be done before you put the water in it. However, it 
always annoys me to gum up my nice silver or china or glass 
with clay. 

Now. though it breaks your heart, snap off those nice long 
and expensive chrysanthemum stems so there is one very 
low, one medium and one tallish one. Put them into the ar- 
rangement so that their stems follow their corresponding 
pine branches . . low. medium and tall. See if you can make 
them follow so closely that they give the illusion of blossoms 
and leaves growing on the same stem. To finish the arrange- 
ment, cover the holder itself with just enough pine needles 
or leaves so that you are not conscious it is there. 

There is something very joyous and hospitable about a 
house with fresh flowers, so if it's only a quartei of a dozen 
. . have them! 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 



for gourmets only 

Fine food in an atmosphere 
of convivial friendliness! 

Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth 

CR 5-0191 
BR 2-3432 




(.Continued from page 31) portion of the Sand- 
wich (Hawaiian) Islands; and heavy financial 
backing of the Mexican government's revolu- 
tion against Maximillian. 

Fate, which eventually caught up with 
Brannan, did not spare Marshall and Sutter 
such pleasant interludes. James Marshall got 
nowhere in the corrupt frontier courts by 
pressing his claims to the goldfields which 
had been forcibly seized from him. For 
twenty years the historic discoverer of gold 
proclaimed his case throughout the country to 
a disinterested audience. Finally he returned 
to California and in 1872 the state legisla- 
ture voted him a two hundred dollar monthly 
pension, but at the very next session this was 
pared in half. Marshall died in poverty in 

Captain Sutter faired little better. An easy 
mark for Brannan and his ilk, he soon lost 
the major part of his enormous land hold- 
ings in the Mother Lode country. Legend 
has it that he died a pauper on the steps of 
the Capitol in Washington, D. C. While this 
is probably not accurate, it is certain that the 
discovery of gold in his raceway, far from 
bringing him fabulous wealth, destroyed the 
modest prosperity and tranquility that had 
been his with his colonization of New Helvetia. 

As for Brannan, his house of cards in due 
time came tumbling about his ears. In the 
most approved western tradition, women and 
bad whiskey were his downfall. Lola Mon- 
tez, the fabulous European actress, was his 
nemesis. Further speeding his decline was 
the huge cash settlement that he was forced 
to make upon his wife when she divorced 
him. His descendancy was as abrupt and as 
complete as his ascendancy had been, and 
Samuel Brannan, a drunk, died peddling 
pencils on a street corner in Arizona. 

Zamorano's printing press met indignity at 
the end, too. But its honor survived and 
was enhanced through three Gold Rush years 
before it was dealt unkind violence in its 
dotage. Destined to serve five masters in 
this brief time, it led the advance of the 
printed word into the mines. Its first 
move was occasioned by the purchase of 
The Californian in November 1848 by Ed- 
ward C. Kemble, owner of the Star. Kemble, 
who had worked his way up from a printer 
on Brannan's paper to its owner and ulti- 
mately one of California's most distinguished 
journalists, combined the two papers into the 
Star and Californian. After a few months 
of turning out the merged newspaper, the 
old press was taken by Kemble, who had 
a sentimental attachment for it, to Sacra- 
mento where he started the Placer Times, 
first of the interior newspapers. It followed 
the miners, and subsequently started the 
Stockton Times, then the Sonora Herald, and 
finally the ill-fated Columbia Star. 

But as it traveled the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin Rivers by boat, and through the 
rich placer lands by ox cart, it recorded and 
preserved the news, both great and small, 
of pioneer California. 

But it also reported that butter was Sl-25 
a pound. 

It took the pulse of the miner whose creed 
was subsequently published according to Act 
of Congress and which concluded thus: "The 
miner believes that California, with all its 
social drawbacks, is not only a great country, 
but that it is in every sense the best place 
in the world for a working man, and only 
awaits the coming of a good, sensible, in- 
telligent class of noble-minded women to 
make the desert to blossom as the rose, and 
man to become rich, contented and happy. 
So mote it be." 
Zamorano's curious press preserved for pos- 
terity little insights into contemporary cus- 
tom, like this advertisement by one W. H. 
Davis: "New Goods just received by Schr. 
'Providence' and Brig 'Sabine'. This new 
goods includes 34 dozen turkey red handker- 
chiefs, 1 doz. silk umbrellas, 3 doz. vests, 4 pes 
of blue string silk, some blue cloth jackets 
and alpacca, to say nothing of lemon syrup, 

dried apples, painted pails, sperm candles, 
superior chewing tobacco, corn brooms, fire 
shovel and tongs." 

Or this one by the New York Store in San 
Francisco, offering a "breath-taking supply 
of bleached shirtings, gambroons, beaverteens, 
moleskins, and other pant stuffs in great va- 
riety . . . and the largest and most exten- 
sive assortment of jaconet, nansook, book, mull, 
Saxon and Swiss muslins, laces and edgings 
ever brought into this market. 

California's first printing press served its 
many masters well. When it chucked sedate 
New England and began a life of adventure 
it had already been marked as obsolete and 
virtually retired to pasture. The full life of 
ease it had led in Boston remained its own 
secret. Seventeen years ahead of the Gold 
Rush, it came to serve the Mexicans in their 
last days. It stayed to record or share in 
more than one Mexican revolution; the 
American revolt that sought to set up a Cali- 
fornia Republic; the Mexican war with the 
United States, through to the treaties of 
Cahuenga and Guadalupe Hidalgo; the dis- 
covery of gold with which it scooped the 
world; the mad rush of the '49ers; and ulti- 
mately California's admission into the Union. 
A bi-lingual press, it printed Mexican gov- 
ernment documents, then went on to found 
California's first newspaper and to start four 

It was well admired and sentimentally re- 
spected by early California editors. Thus, when 

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THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 


(Continued from page 59) form of the Bear 
Flag Revolt. 

Fremont was on the way to Sacramento 
when a group of Yankee settlers of Cali- 
fornia started a revolt around the bay re- 
gion, set up a short-lived republic with a 
bear flag insignia, and gave Fremont an op- 
portunity to join a movement toward inde- 
pendence from Mexico. Fremont was par- 
ticipating in this revolt when actual war with 
Mexico did break out, and he was able to 
merge his efforts with those of other American 
military leaders who later invaded the 

Jessie played a great part in making Fre- 
mont the hero he was, for if his expeditions 
had been as cavalierly treated as were most 
. . buried in musty Congressional reports . . 
his popularity would have been ephemeral 
indeed. But Jessie was the one who labored 
diligently over Fremont's "memoirs" and 
clothed them in such a winning literary 
style that they became best-sellers of the 
day. Very probably these "memoirs" formed 
the basis of his popularity, and were the first 
stepping-stone in the long climb to fame and 
prominence that characterized his life. 

Jessie joined Fremont in California during 
the gold rush, arriving by sea via the Isthmus 

In the Crucible of California 

it came to Columbia to turn out the first 
issues of the Columbia Star, the Sonora Her- 
ald, which it had lately fostered, commented 
on October 20, 1851, that "The Columbia 
Star will make its appearance with one 
strong recommendation in its favor, namely, 
that it will be printed on an old Ramage 
press, the pioneer press of California. In 
what year this press was built . . . tradi- 
tion doth not inform us . . ." On October 
25 the first issue appeared and so venerated 
by now was the creaky old mechanism that 
an ounce of gold was paid for the first copy 
that came off it. Three weeks later Zamorano's 
relic was a charred ruin, victim of the van- 
dalism of its last owner. 

A financial squabble had resulted in an 
attachment of the press by the Sonora Her- 
ald, but because no cart could be obtained 
to haul it away, it was left on the sidewalk. 
That night it was removed to the center of 
the street, probably by G. W. Gore, pub- 
lisher of the short-lived Columbia Star. What 
happened next is best described by the press's 
onetime owner, Edward C. Kemble, who raged 
with indignation: "Either led or instigated 
by Gore, his companions and sympathizers 
kindled a fire under the aged relic and de- 
stroyed in a few moments what, even in bar- 
barian countries, would have been held in 
veneration a lifetime. . . A greater outrage 
never desecrated the name of an American 
town, or disgraced American citizenship, and 
the only possible palliation that can be sug- 
gested is the very meagre one that the in- 
cendiaries may not have known the age and 
historical value of the old press. . . As an 
heirloom of the art on these shores, its value 
would have been almost priceless." 

Then, according to historian George L. 
Harding, the charred and half-consumed re- 
mains of Zamorano's press were brought to 
Sonora by Kemble who promised that "It 
shall be duly labelled and preserved . . in 
memory of its past services . . and whenever 
a State museum may be established, it shall 
be placed within it." 

But alas, for all of Kemble's high inten- 
tions, California's first press disappeared from 
view never to be seen again. In all likeli- 
hood it suffered a second burning in one of 
the five or six conflagrations that later swept 
the whole of Sonoma, and mingled its ashes 
with that of the frontier town. 

of Panama. She it was, according to report, 
who named the Golden Gate . . that strik- 
ing entrance to one of the world's great 
harbors. She participated with her husband 
in California's early political adventures, at- 
tending with him the Constitutional Con- 
vention at Monterey in 1849. The Fremonts 
then traveled in Europe, and in 1856 Jessie's 
husband became the new Republican Party's 
first candidate for president. He was unable 
to defeat Democrat James Buchanan, but he 
ran a good race . . so good thaL the Re- 
publicans felt sure of victory in 1860. 

Jessie always regarded her husband as 
perfect, an opinion which was not shared by 
everyone. Fremont was court-martialed for 
insubordination during the conquest of Cali- 
fornia, and Jessie loyally stood by him. 
Again, as commander of the West, during the 
early years of the Civil War, he acted in 
flagrant disregard of Lincoln's orders, and 
was removed from his command and placed 
in a subordinate position, in which he was 
soundly thrashed in battle by Stonewall Jack- 
son. His tendency to play politics gave him 
the governorship of the territory of Arizona, 
a post which he did not occupy with much 
credit to himself or his associates. But Jessie 
never faltered. On her deathbed, twelve years 
after her husband had passed away, she had 
a portrait of the handsome general placed so 
that it would be the last thing she ever saw. 

Women like "Dame Shirley" and Jessie 
Benton Fremont were scarcer in the California 
of a hundred years ago than thousand-dollar 
gold nuggets. 

In San Francisco, at the height of the 
gold rush, there was a prosperous firm of 
auctioneers. James L. Riddle and Company 
profited, like most businesses of the time, 
from high prices, the scarcity of goods and 
the plentitude of money. When an auction 

in these 

Spaces. •• 

. . .and Tanner GRAY 
LINE has them for you 
in principal cities in 
Southern California, 
Arizona and Nevada. 

. . . Limousines with guide drivers, 
too, by the hour, day or week. ..and 
don't forget to plan on sightsee- 
ing tours throughout this gorgeous 
country, via Tanner Gray Line de- 
luxe busses and limousines. 

Write in for free folders on sight- 
seeing tours and U-DRIVE cars. 



324 S. Beaudry Ave., Los Angeles 13, Calif 

A sportshirt with a dressed-up look! 

Its smooth continuous roll collar 

is comfortably becoming for relaxed 

moments, has the added advantage 

of taking gracefully to a tie. 

Where can you buy it? 

Write us at Dept. L-9 


' Hollywood Hogue 
Sportswear Corp. 

_Ji 945 N. Highland Avenue 
Hollywood 38, California 

THE CALIFORNIAN, September, 1948 



Patented Design 


This ingenious right-angle spoon 
helps a child to develop good table 
manners easily and naturally, with- 
out irksome correction. The spoon, 
which is sterling silver, can be used 
only with the right hand. Exclusive 
with Rhea" McAllaster. Price, in- 
cluding Federal Tax and mailing 
charges— S7.00. (Add 2c Sales Tax 
on New York City orders.) 

113 East 39th Street Dept. C-6 

New York 16, N. Y. 

Please send me spoons at 

$7 each. C.O.D. □ Check enclosed □ 




rfs- t t- 

DELIGHT . . . 


ndividual bags of transparent 
plastic. To protect your shoes — while 
travelling or at home. Neater, clean- 
er packing with these washable shoe- 
bags. Also use for cosmetics or toi- 
let articles. 2 pairs in Gift Box. For 
women — in blue, rose, or white. 
31.00. For men — in white only. 
S1.25. Add 10c postage, 


34 West 17th Street — Dept. C. 

New York 11, New York 


In colors, crepe rubber sole 

Style BT Bootee type sandol of soft 
suede leather with live crepe rubber 
sole. Fits like a glove — no heel. 
Colors: red, white, fawn, black, dark 
blue and dark green. Sized for 
women 4 to - 9. Give 2nd choice of 
color, please. Send shoe size, out- 
line of foot and $4.50 (Add 2Y* 2 % 
in Calif.) 
THE MEXICO CO., Dept. SC,, California 
(Send for folder showing other styles in 
leather sandals, espadrillcs, aqua-pumps, 
etc. 5c will bring folder by airmail.) 



(Continued from page 73) was an- 
nounced, its salesrooms were crowded 
with noisy purchasers, ravenous after 
the items which to them represented the 
comforts of the East. One day, when 
Riddle's rooms were jammed with a 
shouting mob and money flowed like 
water, someone took advantage of a 
brief pause in the auctioneer's chant to 
cry out, "Two ladies going along the 
sidewalk!" And in a moment the crowd 
had pushed and hustled its way out 
of the store to view this unaccustomed 
and highly welcome sight. 

In the back country, women were 

Open Every Day 




2900 Wilshire Blvd. Santa Monica 
Phone S. M. 45007 

even scarcer. One bewhiskered citizen 
of Tuttletown on the Stanislaus River 
managed somehow to obtain a wom- 
an's shoe. He placed it in a conspicu- 
ous position in his shack, and was ac- 
customed to take it out for occasional 
airings, when he was invariably sur- 
rounded by an admiring and covetous 
crowd. Usually the miners would offer 
to buy it, and sometimes spirited bid- 
ding resulted. The owner, however, 
consistently refused to sell, and an- 
swered all queries with the stubborn 
reply, "Now, see here boys, the skunk 
ain't found that can buy this boot. 
T'aint for sale, no how!" 

Miners were far past the state when 
the masculinity of the frontier appeal- 
ed to them, and they yearned for 
the refinements of civilized society 
to such an extent that they were will- 
ing to engage in almost any activity 
which reminded them of home. Some 
camps began to hold dances in the 
larger saloons. These parties were en- 
thusiastically attended, and half of the 
dancers . . bearded, flannel-shirted 
miners with guns or bowie-knives 
hanging from their belts . . volun- 
tarily took the part of women by sew- 
ing large white patches, cut from tents 
or flour sacks, on the seats of their 
pants. Square dances, waltzes, polkas 
. . all were vigorously participated in 
. . although the "orchestra" usually 
consisted only of a fiddle and a flute. 

The popularity of the pastime was 
enhanced when the dance-caller . . 
after long hours of "Swing partners," 
"All hands round," and "Ladies chain" 
. . often included as his closing figure, 
"Promenade to the bar and treat your 

The patched-pants dancers would 
gracefully acquiesce. 


You'll Be 

Smitten With This 

California Foot Mitten! 

Enjoy the wonderful barefoot comfort and foot protection of these oriental- 
inspired foot mittens. Tabbies are for patio, pool, swimming, dance classes, 
dorm and indoor lounging. 

Fabrics and colors accessorize your every need: faded blue denim; white 
terrycloth ; Everfast cotton in black, yellow, aqua, white and red. Sizes S-M-L. 

Send your check or money order for $2.95 (add 8c sales tax_ for Californians) to 

CALIFORNIA LIVING • 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California 


26 high — 21 ave. diam. Ready to use, no bricks, 
stones, or labor required. 

Beautiful tree stump garden fixture of heat resist- 
ing reinforced Haydite concrete, stained dark brown 
. . Burns trash or any solid fuel safely. Equipped 
with charcoal pan, and grate. Grills, Broils, Bar- 
becues. Stands all weather. 

only Sin rn ^J::r' m,]ve 

I / • «* w write to 

W. 0. JOHNSON CO. Dept. C, Omaha, Nebr. 


You can play up your good points, pl( 
your figure faults, accent your positive 
constantly as a well-dressed woman 
follow the simple rules in Dressing by 
a collection of 10 important fashion ^ 
from The Californion Magazine. Write ti/i 
your copy . . only 50c postpaid. 

1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cu 

Daring! Exciting! Diffei.t 

The HALF-HI-A ends a search * 

different bra. So comfortable ill 

wear it with everything. It's strle 

topless, designed to stay put. 

Black or white, sizes 34, 36 ai I 

Send $5.00, check or money ordeiai 

2 1 / 4% sales tax for California! 

fl j 150 South Fairfc 

J-UCifi. Los Ange , es 36( Ca || 








''Sun Vah) 

Accomplishes wonders in a short ik 
Approximately two months 5i«) 

$3.08 inc. ]> 


655 So. Shatto Place, Los Angeli 5. 

Louise Salinger 
Schools of Dress Desig n 


Pattern Designing. Pattern D r. 
Nfilllnery. Tailoring. Skr '" 
Modeling. Day and Evening (•* 
Catalogue B. 
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Wood & 



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Atlantic >S 

THE CALIFORN1AN, September, 1948 

is pure sorcery in Verney's treasure trove of metollics. Subtle alchemy in formal fabrics of timeless splendor... 
that whisper again of crystal-lit ballrooms ... of the Renaissance grandeur of Fall's opening-night fcshions. 
VERNEY FABRICS CORPORATION 1410 Broadway, New York 18, N. Y. 



1 B:-r' ! 


id ^H 


35 cents 


original design b 





Kay Saks versatile coat of Botany Superchan wool gabardine, in Fall Travel Tone Colors. Illustrated, Tahitian Green. Sizes 8 tc 

k9tudy in simplicity with emphasis 

on good clean line. Casual perfection 
cut from Juilliard's Master Fabric, 

gabardine. Bronze belt. Greige, seafoam, 

praline, 10 to 18. $55. 
Mail Orders to Casual Colony 


THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948 

I lie going's as good as the coming in this \vondei4ul back-vra^ed 
wool jersey dress by California's Addie Masters. Cinnamon or green rimmed in 
black. Sizes lO to QO. 35-00 « ascot shop, fourth floor 


THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948 

Adrian Says It! 

At the recent preview of his fall collection, 
the world-famous California designer, Adrian, 
prefaced the showing with a few succinct remarks, 
from which we quote: "I'll stick my neck out 
again and say there is too much talk about 
'Paris says' and not enough interest in what the 
American woman says . . She tossed out the 
'new look' because it didn't become her, and 
she'll toss out any other look except what suits her 
American life . . I'm tired of American designers 
being practically insulted if they don't want to 
copy French fashions . . Let's have fashion from 
every place where fashion can thrive, but let's not 


^ ^i 











soned traveler or swart 
sophisticate will appreciate 
the worldly wisdom of 
this suit by Lilli Ann . . . 
menswear fabric treated 
with delicate finesse to 
achieve rounded lines. 
Sizes 10 to 20, it's about 
$70 at Bullock's, Los An- 
geles; Peggy Shop, San 
Francisco; Bedell's, Port- 
land. Meadowbrook quill- 
ed beret, Jim Pack llama 
bag. Photographed at San 
Francisco harbor. 

limit silhouettes with seasonal promotion. If you 
have a suit with trim, square shoulders, why 
be told you must throw it away this season and 
then be told again to buy it back the next? 
It's double talk. Fashion is a fluid, changing thing, 
but its change is gradual and not drastic 
because our lives today are keyed to certain 
essential facts. We travel fast, we live in fairly 
crowded communities, and we do a great many 
different things during the day in the same 
clothes. Clothes must make news and be interest- 
ing, but rarely are the news-makers lasting 
in fashion. What we need in this country is 
some faith in American taste and judgment . . the 
American look is the best loved look in the 
world and let's not forget it!" 










MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson 


FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 

MEN'S FASHION EDITOR .Malcolm Steinlauf 

FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary 

Edie Jones 
Alice Stiffler 
Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Frances Anderson 

Alice Carey 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

ART Morris Ovsey 

John Grandjean 

Ann Harris 

Jane Christiansen 



FOOD STYLIST , Helen Evans Brown 

California fashions 

What To Wear In California In October 20 

San Francisco Letter, by Sally Dickason 27 

Sophisticated San Francisco 28 

In Carnival Spirit 30 

So Lovely, So Romantic 31 

All Around The Town 32 

Your Coat, Your Suit 34 

For That Woman About Town 36 

Shining Light Of Your Holiday Wear 41 

Soft Lights For Nights 46 

Underliners Past And Present 48 

For Daytime Pleasure 52 

Ideal Sweaters For The Whole Family 57 

California features 

In California It's .■ 37 

Five More Tones Than Most, the story of Schoenberg 42 

San Francisco Celebrates Ride of Portola 44 

Society And Movie Stars Go For Tournament Tennis 50 

All His Ideas Are Grandiose, the story of Ray Smith 56 

Boris Lovet-Lorski: Sculptor, by Alice Stiffler 58 

Of Interest In California In October 60 

California living 

Model House Awarded By Portola Festival Committee 38 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 54 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager, 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & 
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; 
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per vear outside con- 
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as 
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under 
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro- 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically aauthorized. 

Hj of san francisco 

does marvelously versatile 
suits like this, always in 

exciting fabrics, always in 
exciting colors, always with 

exciting details. This one 
comes in Henrietta velvet-sheen 
gabardine, very luxurious . . . 
plush red, cavalier green, 

weskit grey, Tosca blue, 
mascara brown, black . . . also 
in fine men's wear worsteds 

sizes 10 to 20 . . . about 

seventy dollars at better stores. 

"of san francisco" 
city of sophisticates and 
superlatives ... of longest 
bridges and suddenest hills, and 
fairest flowers and smartest women 



Patty Woodard accents 

luxurious crepe satin 

with fine lace and 

self-covered buttons. 

A real compliment 

to your smart suit or 

costume skirt. 

White only. 

Under $12 at Bullock's, 

Los Angeles, and in 

fine stores everywhere . . . 

or write and we'll 

tell you the name of the 


860 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 14, California 

THE CALI FORN I AN , October, 1948 


Budget Priced Luxuries 

These are just a few of the many comfortably 

flattering Blue Swan budget lingerie styles that 
are in store for you . . . your favorite £tore, that is. 

They're all made of long wearing run proof rayon 
that's so easy to wash and needs no ironing. 

Whether it's a gown for slumbertime loveliness, a 
slip for wrinkleless fit or a panty for sheer comfort, 

there's a Blue Swan style you'll enjoy wearing, 




#8548 —"CUDDLE CUP" SUP - This new slip is 
cleverly made with a Laton panel in the back that molds 
the bodice almost "bra-like" to the figure. 
Sizes 32 to 38. Pink, blue, white, black. 

#8547 —ELASTIC LEG BRIEF — No undie wardrobe 
is complete without this briefest of panties with elastic 
leg bottoms that will not ride up or bind. 
Sizes 4 to 8. Pink, white, blue, maize. 

#8509 -SKINTIGHT PANTY - Here's a panty that 
fits like a suntan. Ideal for smooth lines under today's 
smart fashions. 
Sizes 5 to 8. Pink, white, black. 

#8540 — BAND BRIEF — Another favorite panty for 
wear most anywhere. Band bottom hugs the leg and 
always stays in place. 
Sizes 4 to 8. Pink, white, blue, maize. 


j Division of McKay Products Corp. 

Prices slightly higher in the West 



350 Fifth Avenue 


New York 1, N. Y 



Our exclusive Botany gabardine suit . . . de- 
signed by Yablokoff for Kay Saks of Cali- 
fornia . . . wear the detachable cape when 
you're in the mood for fall's "Little Women" 
look . . . wear the suit alone as a beautifully 
simple basic with many accessory changes 
... in wonderful Travel Tones 85.00 

San Mateo, San Francisco, Vallejo 

San Francisco 

Thursday Store Hours 

11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. 

Suit Salon, Third Floor 

October, 1948 


Co-starring in 
Miss Tallock's Millions" 

a Paramount Production 

AT EASE in the 

from California 

This genuine CJUf QRNI4N casual suede jacket has that leisurely 
look of well-being sought by all men. Cosmopolitan, yet distinctly 
ClUFORNMN tne "Suede Master"* is fashioned of luxurious 
lightweight suede, tailored as only these world famous makers can 
tailor leather sportswear. Full drape lined, custom padded shoul- 
ders, three roomy pockets — expensive looking in every line, yet 
moderate in cost. Colors : Sand, Flagstone, London Tan and Gray. 
Sizes 34 to 46, including "Regulars" and "Longs", too. Featured 
by fine stores everywhere. Write for the name of store nearest you. 





by MarjSo Osherenko 

This arrangement takes very little of that 
"precious space" on a loaded Thanksgiv- 
ing table. Two or three or four of them 
down the table add much fun with their 
gay turkey feathers. And they're not too 
large for a card table either. They also 
take "precious little time" once you have 
located the turkey feathers. 

The vases are the big glass seafood 
cocktails that stand about four inches high 
and are about five inches in diameter. 

Here is a list of things that might go 
into the arrangement. Choose some from 
each group of colors. Choose an assort- 
ment of sizes from shiny red cranberries 
to apples (nothing larger). Choose an as- 
sortment of shapes ... long, round, ir- 
Green: Apples, limes, peas in the pod, 

pineapple guavas, tiny avocadoes. 
Red: Apples, cranberries, radishes, little 

long red peppers. 
Orange: Persimmons, tangerines, car- 
rots, oranges, tiny crook-necked 

gourds or squashes. 
White: Little pearl boiling onions or 

flat ones if you can find them, and 

white radishes. 
Yellow: Lemons, apples, gourds, crab 

apples, very small bananas. 
Brown: Nuts . . . filberts, pecans, walnuts. 
Shine up the apples and polish the fruit 
and rub any of the dull vegetables with 
a little vegetable oil to make them glossy. 
Pile the glasses high with the fruit and 
vegetables . . using toothpicks where neces- 
sary to keep them from rolling off the 

Top each dish with two turkey feathers 
stuck into an apple. Use a yellow and a 
brown feather. Or use an orange feather 
and an undyed speckled turkey feather. 
Use any gay combination that goes with 
your linen and dishes and that looks like 
a happy Thanksgiving! 

An interesting arrangement like this one is a real conversation piece 

•Trade Mark registered 

Time proven 


Pinebrook Gabardine. A fabric's 

eminence is proved by time ... by its 

fashion acceptance. Designers of smart 

clothes and the women who wear them 

have long indicated a preference for 

Cohama's Pinebrook Gabardine. 

This rayon gabardine is 

preferred for its soft luster, its 

suppleness, its ability to take color — 

and keep it — and for its adaptability 

to fine tailoring and design. Pinebrook 

Gabardine has been imitated but no 

fabric in its field affords you its quality, 

proved by time and fashion. 

Suit by Ritter Sportswear, 

Los Angeles, in Pinebrook Gabardine 




Old California 
Gold Water 


• Just in time for Christmas! Just 
in time to head the list of gift 
suggestions for your very special 
friends. Old California Gold Wa- 
ter was inspired by the fabulous 
days of the Golden West. It's a 
wonderful cologne . . mixed from 
a formula rare as the pure 23- 
karat gold flakes that shimmer in 
each bottle. 

• From Hollywood . . in Golden 
California . . Old California Gold 
Water, beautifully packaged with 
genuine leather top covering, 
comes to you postpaid for $4.50, 
including the federal excise tax 
. . a full four-ounce bottle of 
scented elegance to keep . . to 
remember you every day. 

• Solve your shopping problems. 
Order several today! They will be 
delivered, safely packaged, by 
return mail. Only $4.50, tax in- 
cluded. Add 2V 2 % if you live 
in California. Send check or 
money order to 


1018 South Main Street, 
Los Angeles 15, California 


Kay Saks" versatile coat of Botany Superchan wool 
gabardine, as pictured on the inside front cover, is 
available in sizes 8 to 18 at the following stores: 

ALABAMA: Loveman-Joseph & Loeb, Birmingham; Stall- 
worth & Snowden, Monroeville; The Vogue, Alabama 
City; Isador Kayser & Co., Selma; Mary Shoppe, Hunts- 

ARIZONA: Bessie Borden's, Kingman; Gus Taylor, 

ARKANSAS: Style Shoppe, Clarendon; Gus Blass, Lit- 
tle Rock; Kline's, Texarkana; Cunningham's, Pine 

CALIFORNIA: Rodder's Mademoiselle, Fresno; Martin 
Verb, San Diego; Marbro's, Inglewood; L. Hart & 
Son, San Jose; Musette's, Ontario; Berthold's, Los 
Gatos; Lieberg's, A I ham bra; Chic Shop, Oceanside; 
Knit Togs, Huntington Park; City of Parts, San Fran- 

COLORADO: Denver Dry Goods, Denver; Style Shop, Ft. 
Morgan; Brooks-Fauber, Boulder; Hall's, La Junto; 
Dorothe Shoppe, Steamboat Springs; Ann's Style Shop, 
Longmont; Graden Mercantile Co., Durango; Gordon 
Store, Grand Junction. 

CONNECTICUT: G. Fox, Hartford; Moline's, New Haven; 
Chancy D'Elia, Greenwich. 

DELAWARE: Braunstein's, Wilmington. 

FLORIDA: Bea's Shop, Pensacola; Irwin's, Daytona 

GEORGIA: Jo-Ann, Rossville; B. Karpf, Savannah; Bo- 
ll a nan's, SummervMle; Kiralfy's, Columbus; Kersey's, 

ILLINOIS: Edgar A. Stevens, Evanston; Blum's, Cham- 
paign; Bromson's, Oak Park; Fashion Shop, Mt. Ver- 
non; David's, Rock Island; The Fair, Kankakee; Herri n 
Supply, Herrin; Kilham's, Jacksonville; Mayson's, Chi- 
cago; Maxine's, Cairo; La Rose Dress Shoppe, Cicero. 

INDIANA: Indiana Fur Co., Indianapolis; Hoosier 
Style Shop, Hammond. 

IOWA: Killian Co., Cedar Rapids; Lilyan's, Ft. Dodge; 
M. L. Parker, Davenport; Younkers, Des Moines. 

IDAHO: The Paris Co., Pocatello. 

KANSAS: Peques-Wright, Hutchinson; Poteet's, Manhat- 
tan; Morris & Son, McPherson; Jild's, Salina; Pelle- 
tier's, Topeka. 

KENTUCKY. A. D. Campbell, Middleboro; Major's, 

LOUISIANA: Rosenfield's, Baton Rouge; Palais Royal, 
Shreveport; Kreeger's, New Orleans; Masur Bros., 

MASSACHUSETTS: Filene's, Boston; Porter's, Brockton; 
Lenor's, Fall River; Newtonville Outlet, Newtonville. 

MICHIGAN: Jacobson Stores of Michigan; Style Shop, 
Ishpeming; J. L. Hudson, Detroit; O'Donnell's Style 
Shop, Ironwood; Callighan's, Ludington. 

MINNESOTA: Jack Fink, New Ulm ; Young-Quinlan, 
Minneapolis; Herberger's, Hibbing; Massey's, Rochester. 

MISSOURI: Czarlinsky's, Jefferson City; Hirsch Bros., 
St. Joseph; Kilhom's, Hannibal; Sage's, Sedolia; Smart 
Wear, Moberly; Rothschild's, Kansas City; Scruggs- 
Vandervoort & Barney, St. Louis. 

MISSISSIPPI: Style Shop, Vicksburg; R. E. Kennington, 
Jackson, George's, Natchez; Fine Bros.-Matison Com- 
pany, Hattiesburg and Laurel; The Darling Shop, Co- 
lumbus; De Loach's, Greenwood; Clyde's Shop, Winona. 

MONTANA: Burr's, Butte; Missoula Mercantile Co., Mis- 
soula; Casperson's, Conrad; Vaughn-Ragsdale, Bill- 

NEBRASKA: Gold & Co., Lincoln. 

NEW JERSEY: Etta's, Passaic; Dainty Apparel, Asbury 

NEW YORK: H. B. Burnett, New York City; J. Kline, 

NEVADA: The Wonder, Reno. 

NEW MEXICO: Mosier's, Albuquerque; Elizabeth's, Ros- 
well; Fashion Salon, Artesia; Mildred & Marie, Clovis; 
Forson's, Portales; Myrtke's, Carlsbad; Pauline's Style 
Shop, Hobbs; Irma's, Santa Fe. 


Take my heart if you wish, my dear, 
Burn my love like a taper, 

Take my money, my vows, my life, 
But leave me my evening paper. 
■ — Merle Beynon 

NORTH CAROLINA: Lucielle, Charlotte; Helen's, Gos- 
tonia; Tobias, High Point; Jean's, Raleigh; Guyes- 
Betty Lou, Salisbury; Louise's, Rock Hill; S. B. Guyes, 
Burlington; Nelle's, Albermarle. 

NORTH DAKOTA: Hapip's Fashions, Williston; Store 
Without A Name, Fargo. 

OKLAHOMA: Kerr's, Oklahoma City; Field's, Tulsa; 
Mildred's, Duncan. 

OHIO: H. & S. Pogue, Cincinnati; Rike-Kumler, Dayton; 
H. Weber, Zanesville. 

OREGON: Olds & King, Portland; Sackley's, Tillamook; 
Hamilton's, Albany; Greta's, Salem. 

PENNSYLVANIA: Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh. 

RHODE ISLAND: The Peerless Co., Pawtuckett; Glad- 
dings, Providence. 

SOUTH DAKOTA: Woman's Shop, Rapid City. 

TENNESSEE: Miller's, Chattanooga; Miller's, Knoxville; 
B. Lowenstein, Memphis; Loveman, Berger & Teitelbaum, 
Nashville; Cecil Elrod's French Shoppe, Murfreesboro. 

TEXAS: The White House, El Paso; Elva's, Littlefield; 
Berhman's, Pampa; The Advance Shop, McAllen; Sako- 
witz Bros., Houston; Frost Bros., San Antonio. 

UTAH: Paris Co., Salt Lake City. 

WASHINGTON, D. C.i Woodward & Lothrop. 

WASHINGTON: Rhodes Bros., Tacoma; Spokane Dry 
Goods, Spokane; Best's Apparel, Seattle; Caplan's, 

WEST VIRGINIA: Coyle & Richardson, Charleston; 
Bradshaw-Diehl, Huntington. 

WISCONSIN: Edith's, Fond du Lac; Baron Bros., Madi- 
son; H. C. Prange Co., Green Bay; Stuart's, Milwaukee. 

WYOMING: Stuart's, Casper; Baertsch's, Rawlins; y 
Suzanne Shop, Buffalo; Kassis Dept. Store, Cheyenne; h 
Elliot Shop, Rock Springs; Smart Shop, Worland. 

2>aed If 'out jbieam ctto4Ue 
Jdoak like lUu? 

PAUL LASZLO, internationally famous de- 
signer of beautiful homes and furnishings, j 
is designing The Californian House . . from i 
your ideas and suggestions . . just for you 
to inspect and admire. A contemporary one- | 
story house soon to be constructed in fash- I 
ionable Brentwood. 

WHAT ONE feature would you like to see 
in a modern 2-bedroom house? Would you 
like a den or an additional bedroom? What | 
one thing would be most important to you 
if you could have your choice? It's not too 
late to send your thoughts to us . . but hurry! 

THE CALIFORNIAN house will be present- j 
ed with complete drawings, renderings and 
floor plan in the November issue of The Cali- 
fornian Magazine. Soon after construction 
it will be pictured in The Californian and 
two weeks' open house to the public will be 
sponsored by The Californian Magazine. 

SEND YOUR suggestions today, to 


1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15 



I Robes 

for your Holiday 

Including zipper or wraparound 
, styles in Sheercord or in Cordu- 
; roy, Raylaine, Cotton or Rayon 

Quilts or Parker-Wilder Flannels. 

j Style 604 (Pictured) Quilted Rayon 
| Crepe, dolman sleeve wrap- 
! around, in Pink, Blue, or White 
I with floral print. Lined in harmon- 
' I izing solid color crepe. 

! Sizes 14 to 20. Under $25.00 at 
, your favorite store, or write. 

M. R. 





• See page 60 for a list of stores where this robe is available. 

October, 1948 





■ ta a) 






Quaintly appealing . . . sleep pajamas of multifilament crepe, by California's 
aristocratic designer: point d'esprit lace on yoke of blouse which may be 
tucked in or worn like a jacket. In pink, blue or white, sizes 32 to 38. 
At better stores everywhere. 


417 East Pico Boulevard 



GENTLEMEN PREFER . . . Camel Hair. 
And Dutch Girl Yarn is the answer! Ideal 
for men's sweaters and socks, this new 3-ply 
Natural Tan Camel Hair combines lightness 
and warmth without bulk for easy knitting. 
It launders easily and beautifully. Five 1- 
ounce skeins at $1.00 each make this attrac- 
tive sweater. Camel Hair Yarns and directions 
for the sweater, plus many new Dutch Girl 
Yarns, are at department stores and yarn 
shops. Or write direct to The Bridgeton Co., 
Inc., Box 5280, Metro Station, Los Angeles 
55, Calif. 

COOKS' DELIGHT ... and it's a delight 
to anyone to bake perfect pancakes. You can 
do it, with Grandma Layne's Pancake Griddle. 
The secret is correct baking heat . . . and 
this unique griddle has a thermometer that 
tells you when it's ready! Finest cookware 
aluminum in beautiful wedding gift finish, 
it's a must for every kitchen. The nearly 
square shape and large size accommodate four 
big cakes at once. If not at your department 
store, order postpaid $5.95, tax included, from 
Layne Mfg. Co., 2035 Milan Avenue, South 
Pasadena, Calif. 

eating fun for the children. A colorful, dur- 
able 4-piece set of dinner and butter plates, 
mug and bowl . . . with your child's first 
name baked into each piece. Enthusiastic 
letters are received daily about this attractive 
set, for it pleases parents as well as chil- 
dren. Ideal for the birthday or occasional 
gift. Just send child's name and sex (pattern 
differs for boy and girl) with check or money 
order to Johnson's China & Glass, Dept. C, 
11 Court Street, Binghamton, New York. Only 
$5 prepaid. Add 50c if west of the Mississippi. 

THE VOYAGER . . . Emmet of California 
has created this stunning top grain cowhide 
bag to double as a handbag and overnight 
case. It is roomy enough for nightwear and 
cosmetics, yet easy to carry over-the-shoulder. 
Ideal for plane or train, it avoids the bulk 
of usual cosmetic cases. With handy inner and 
outer pockets, sized ll"xlOV£". Black, lug- 
gage and dark brown. At better stores, or 
order from Emmet Corp., 2837 West Pico, 
Los Angeles, Calif. $35.94 includes excise, 
plus 2y 2 % sales tax in California. 

DEMI-TRAY ... A unique ashtray for 
after-dinner smokers, this clips to the rim of 
any saucer. It provides the ideal gift for 
every hostess, the most practical measure for 
smoking pleasure. The bright non-tarnish fin- 
ish does not scratch and is easy to clean. 
Distinctive in design, this attractively gift- 
packaged set of four Demi-Trays is just $2.95 
Add 2V 2 % sales tax (8c) in California. 
Orders are promptly filled by Fred L. Sey- 
mour Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

lhis is one 
bridesmaid's dress* / 

you'll wear 
^ again 

and again 

STYLE No. 2367 RETAILS ABOUT $25.00 

in fine shops everywhere. 

for store nearest you write to 

House of Lucky Bridal Dresses 


October, 1948 



ILmas Uzfts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

GAY '90 JIGGER: Amusing bar accessory, this 
corseted torso in ceramic. The bust holds a 1-oz. 
jigger; the base a double jigger. Attractively 
gift boxed. $1.00, postpaid. 

TABLE LAMP: Wonderful miniature of an old- 
fashioned wood-burning brass stove, complete 
with tiny double boiler and tea kettle. Piquant 
aproned shade is washable. $12.50 postpaid. 

MILK SET: No problem coaxing the youngsters 
to drink milk when it's poured from this frisky 
ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching mug comes with 
barnyard pictures. Pitcher plus one mug, boxed, 
for $3.95, postpaid. 

NO C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. 
(Residents of California, please add 2>/i% sales tax). 

Send for illustrated catalog of 
other delightful California 
gift items. 



TWEEDY TIN . . . presents this exquisite 
shadow showcase for your earrings. Entirely 
handmade, with each design an original, it 
is created expressly for those who appreciate 
the smartest in tin. The case holds twelve 
pairs of your pet ear ornaments on velvet 
shelves, protected by a glass front. It stands 
on your dresser or hangs on the wall. Send 
orders for Christmas gifts. (Special shelves to 
hold earrings for pierced ears, SI extra). 
Just send $10, check or money order, to 
Tweedy Tin, Box 226, Downey, Calif. 

YO-YO . . . Charming answer to the request 
for a really different bracelet is this Yo-Yo 
combination. The fine metal fob dangles from 
your wrist and can be unfastened to provide 
that wonderful gadget, the Yo-Yo. This new- 
est in conversation pieces of jewelry comes 
in either gold or silver finish to accessorize 
every costume. A novel Christmas gift, for 
only S1.00 each, plus 20% luxury tax; 21,4% 
sales tax in California. At the store in your 
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846 
S. Broadway, Los Angeles, Calif. 

TIDY TOES . . . Tabbies present this latest 
version of the California foot mittens. Styled 
for indoor lounging, dorm, patio and pool, 
this adorable set features a new two-button 
back closing. For comfort and foot glamour, 
Tabbies are exciting Christmas news. Soft 
satin in black, white or pink; and quilted 
chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. Sizes 
S-M-L. Send your check or money order for 
S3. 95 (add 10c tax in California, 12c in Los 
Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South 
Main, Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

DAINTY DISPENSERS ... for your purse 
are these two. Scent Safe is a handy per- 
fume dispenser. It allows you to use that 
precious scent a drop-at-a-time, prevents evap- 
oration and is guaranteed never to leak. 
Powder Safe is a spillproof holder for your 
powder. Convenient in size and modern in 
shape, these come in gold plate or chrome. 
$2.25 each, or $4.25 the set, postpaid. Add 
2'/2% sales tax in California, and send your 
orders to Tres Hombres, P. O. Box 592, 
La Jolla, Calif. 

TASSEL TRIUMPH ... is the name of 
Phil Sockett's new belt for fall, a soft suede 
midriff-fancier designed as an attractive ac- 
cent for the season's sportswear. This 
adjustable leather-backed belt combines gay 
suede lacing and tassels against a buckle 
covered with gold or silver leather. Suede in 
all fall colors, to match your skirts and 
dresses. Sizes 24 to 32, about S3.50 at your 
favorite store. Or write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co., 
Est. 1925, 1240 South Main St., Los Angeles 
15, Calif. 



— WWft 


TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere 
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly 
appropriate for fall occasions. Extra good fit 
is assured with adjustable straps that smartly 
buckle for added fashion interest. Rich suedes 
in brown and black, or red in the softest 
elkskin. This easy-to-clean footgear is a wise 
choice, indeed. Nicely priced at $6.95. Please 
add 15c postage and 2 l /o% sales tax if in 
California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send your or- 
der to Bernadette's Shop, Box 372, Balboa 
Island, Calif. 

PURE GOLD ... are the petals that whirl 
and swirl with every motion of the bottle 
in this exhilarating perfume, so appropriately 
named White Christmas. It is the breath of 
fresh-fallen snow, heightened by the magic 
of nature's woodland. This delicious scent for 
the season's glamor touch you'll want for 
yourself, and for your friends. White Christ- 
mas Perfume is S7.80 the full ounce, includ- 
ing the excise tax, 2 1 / 4% sales tax in Cali- 
fornia. Order now for the holidays, from The 
Margorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los 
Angeles 15, Calif. 

KNEE-HI ... for the most comfortable wear 
under your pencil-slim skirts and fall formals 
are these Willys of Hollywood seamfree 
stockings, fitted to perfect below-the-knee 
length. Finest DuPont nylon, either 15 or 20 
denier, with convenient ruffled garter top. 
Newest fall shades: smokecloud, autumn 
brown, bronze tone, gunmetal, navy, black, 
topaz, green, Bermuda, negrita. Sizes 8 to 11. 
Knee-Hi's are just $1.65 at May Company- 
Wilshire, Los Angeles; Sage & Allen, Hart- 
ford; Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago. Or write 
Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hol- 
lywood 38, Calif. 

MIRRO-LENS GOGGLES ... an outstand- 
ing technical and utility improvement over or- 
dinary sunglasses, Mirro-Lens reflects the 
rays before they contact the lens. It eliminates 
96% of the harmful rays, so eyes relax com- 
pletely in the strongest glare and dazzle of 
water, ice, snow or beaches. Of finest quality 
6-space lens, optically ground. 14-K gold- 
plated frames and mother of pearl nosepiece. 
The ideal Christmas or birthday gift for men 
or women. $15.00 postpaid, plus 2 : /2% sales 
tax in California. Fred Seymour Co., Box 
1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth. 
The perfect present for that friend with a 
patio or garden. Just throw it 'round the 
pole and zip it up! No more mats or make- 
shift napkins to blow away. Three sharp 
colors: red and white; blue and white; or 
green and white checks. It fits your garden 
table, round or square. Mercerized cotton in 
smart basket weave, hand-printed. $4.95, 
postage prepaid, plus 2 l / 2 % sales tax if in 
California. Matching ready-hemmed napkins, 
18 inches wide, just 40c apiece. The Mar- 
gorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los 
Angeles 15, Calif. 


A.mas Ut'fts in the 
yjalifornia manner 

CHILD'S SPURS: What a treasure for the tiny 
cowboyl Perfect pair of spurs in white and gold 
metal. Complete in every detail, with blunted 
rowels for safety. Fits over any boot or shoe. 
$2.95, postpaid. 

SPINNING ROPE: Any youngster can become a 
champ with this trick spinning rope. Leather 
swivel handle-hold, stationary loop. Comes with 
complete directions. $1.00 postpaid. 

TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very 
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint- 
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped 
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post- 

NO C.O.D. — Please. Send check or money order. 
(Residents of California, please add 2'/ 2 % sales tax). 

Send for Illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 



October, 1948 



is a date time dress just lor you. Cohama faille 
with Ducness plaid taffeta fish tail Lack treat- 
ment. In these smart fall colors; black beauty, 
pine green, Drown bark, dusk blue. Sizes 9 to 

15. About $22.95. 





by Sam Baiter 

1AM NOT one to be unfaithful to tradition, so in the 
truest form of the cliche, it is now time for me to say 
that the tang of autumn is in the air, the sound of the thud 
of pigskin upon the cleated shoe is abroad in the land, and 
up and down the Pacific Coast the smell of roses is fragrant 
on the campi. 

This, of course, is a sportswriter's way of saying that 
the football season is here, and everybody wants in on 
the Rose Bowl. 

Our crystal ball is no more omniscient than anyone's else, 
and my private phrenologist has bumps no bigger than the 
next guy's, but I've been in touch with Pigskin Petes from 
Seattle to Spaulding Field who say they know all about 
the price of tackles on the hoof in November, and with their 
deathless advice in mind, I am able now to give the readers 
of The Californian the precise standing of the Pacific Coast 
Conference come the first week in December when all the 
punts and passes have left the playing field for the history 
book showers. Here it is: 

1. California 6. Stanford 

2. Southern California 7. Washington 

3. Oregon ■ 8. Washington State 

4. UCLA 9. Idaho 

5. Oresron State 10. Montana 

The Golden Rears are our nomination for the doubtful 
honor of defending the faded West Coast prestige against 
the Big Nine champion on New Year's Day. Of course, we 
are not alone in this prediction. From Strawberrv Canyon 
to the Richmond Ferry, there is full agreement. Elsewhere, 
there are doubts. In Eugene they are sure it is Oregon's 
year. In Los Angeles, Southern California supporters do not 
understand why California, which was swamped by the Tro- 
jans last year, should be favored this year, with both teams 
boasting almost identical first strings. And at Westwood 
Village the Rruins think the Bears beat them by a fluke 
last year, that lightning will not strike twice. 

In non-partisan circles opinion is evenly divided between 
California and Oregon. There is a great deal of similarity 
in the setups of both institutions. Both brought in new 
coaches last year, both were tremendously successful with 
their new mentors, and both have been promised that after 
the one-year "building", now is the time. Neither at Eugene 
nor at Berkeley is the Rose Rowl a forbidden subject for 
conversation. Quite the contrary. Alumni of both institu- 
tions talk of nothing else. And, as we have said, sideline 
observers, with no axes to grind, generally support them 
by saying that the 1948 Coast Conference race will be a two- 
team affair. 

Coach Lynn Waldorf, in an unguarded moment, has al- 
ready confided to a fellow-coach that he has so many line- 
men of equal ability that he is able to field three complete 
lines. Four men last year were among those receiving mythi- 
cal post-season honors: Cunningham, an end, Turner, a 
tackle, and Franz and Baker, guards. Only three first- 
stringers from the 1947 team, which won 9 out of 10 in 
Pappy Waldorf's debut, have been graduated. Backs are 
almost as abundant. Several veteran combines are back, 
but at least one sophomore, a young man named Pete Scha- 
barum. is going to have to be in there. Pete is a triple-threater 
who has even the conservative Waldorf excited. However, 
the grade-A All-American candidate is a young man named 
Jackie Jensen. Jensen is a baseball pitcher who has been 
eagerly sought by the big-leagues. In the spring of '47 he 
pitched California to a national championship. Consequent- 
ly, he missed spring practice and was a late starter in the 
Fall. This Spring he was ineligible when baseball season 

rolled around, was unable to play, and spent his time out 
on the football field, "observing" football practice. 

While "observing", Jensen found time to do some honest 
perspiring while in gymnastic attire, and consequently be- 
gins the 1948 campaign in splendid shape. Jensen trades off 
at the tailback and fullback spots, and is hailed as the 
sweetest thing in moleskins since Vic Bottari. It is around 
Mr. Jensen that Californians expect to complete their saga 
of rags to riches. 

Oregon, after a slow start, wound up the 1947 campaign 
with six straight wins and at season's end was admittedly 
the hottest team in the Conference. The 1948 Ducks have 21 
returning lettermen and a first-string line intact. They will 
have depth in an outstanding group of transfers, including 
the flashy Woodley Lewis from Los Angeles City College 
and Johnny McKay from Purdue. Another Purdue transfer 
is Sam Nevills, a 240-pound guard, who held the heavy- 
weight wrestling championship of the Army. Brad Ecklund, 
center, and Dan Garza, end, were named on several All- 
Coast selections. But what Oregon has, more than anything 
else, is Norman Van Brocklin. 

Van Brocklin was far and away the West Coast's best 
passer last year. He was the West's only throwing rival 
to the Lujacks and the Laynes of other sectors. If Oregon 
is to win it will have to be on the good right arm of Van 

On the theory that it is unwise to bet against the champion, 
we have dropped Oregon to third behind the defending 
champion, the University of Southern California. We think 
the Trojans will make it a three-team race, and may very 
possibly repeat as the winner. The miserable showing of 
Jeff Cravath's team in the Rose Rowl has made it lose 
favor with many observers. Rut Coach Cravath has always 
done all right in his own league, and has, in fact, never 
lost to either California or Oregon since he took over the 
reins of the Trojan steed in 1942. 

The Trojans will be stronger. One reason is the return 
of Art Rattle at right halfback after a season's layoff. An- 
other halfback returning is Jay (Merry Go) Roundy, a 
speedster with front-wheel drive. And a sophomore named 
Ralph Pucci will be in there to add more speed. Pucci is 
from Canton. Ohio, and when he came west Ohio State 
coaches moaned they had lost their greatest prep prospect. 
Trojans are a dozen deep or more in the backfield, have 
three veteran signal callers in the T-formation and are 
plenty potent at the ends and tackles. 

One other team emerges as the bona fide dark horse . . 
the team that may sneak in if the others falter. This is 
UCLA. The Rruins last year had one of the most peculiar 
seasons on record. Every game they won they won decisively, 
and looked like champions in the process. In the four 
games they played which were close, and could have gone 
either way, they lost. One to Northwestern by a point. The 
others to Southern Methodist, USC and California by a touch- 
down. Rut the Uclans still have a rough, tough" line and 
a pair of fleet backs in Skip Rowland and Ernie Johnson. 
And end Bill Clements may be the Bruins' third All-Ameri- 
can end in a row. 

In the second division, at least in pre-season ratings, aie 
Oregon State, Stanford, Washington and Washington State. 
Idaho and Montana are in the league, too, but that's all. 

There is the Football Fashion for 1948 on the Pacific 
Coast. Only one subversive thought disturbs us: With the 
vision still fresh of Illinois and Michigan at Pasadena on 
previous New Year's Days, will the boys now be fighting 
to get into that Rose Bowl, or will they be fighting to stay out? 

Oclob.r, 1948 



No Experience Or Special Tools Needed 

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2. Saw It Out 

3. Put It Together 




Dropleaf Table 





Works Just Like a Dress Pattern 



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□ Catalina Window Valance, #61 — 25c 

fj Multi-Purpose Kitchen Unit, #65 — 75c 

□ Double Duty Smoker, #57 — 50e 

□ Spice And Utensil Shelf, #63 — 25c 

□ Cobbler's Bench Coffee Table, #60 — 35c 

□ Studio Photo Album & Guest Book, #69 — 25c 

□ Letters And Numerals, #66 — 25c 

□ Wren House, #71— 25c 

□ Larchmont Knicknack Shelf, #68 — 20c 

□ Revolving Parts Rack, #64 — 20c 

□ Towel Rack, #70 — 25c 

□ Bel-Air Outdoor Dining Set, #62 — 75c 

□ California Lawn Chair, #55 — 50c 

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□ Child's Desk & Seat, #74— 50c 

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□ Novelty Companion Pictures, #76 — 25c 

Add 3c to each item for handling and postage 



MAIL TO: The Margorita Shop, 

1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 


by frances anderson 

OCTOBER'S autumn briskness, much more 
than the spring months, seems the beginning 
of things . . . al least it always affects us 
that way. Consequently, we feel it's entire- 
ly seasonable to dust off the crystal ball and 
predict a few events you may expect in the 
near future, regarding the world of records, 

For that matter, one of our foreshadowings 
may already have come to pass, since we 
must write this pillar weeks ahead of 
time. Our secret operatives, hiding under 
wastebaskets in Petrillo's offices, tell us that 
the musicians' union ban on making record- 
ings is apt to go off any time after Septem- 
ber 25. And as soon as that happens, you 
can expect to make the acquaintance of some 
interesting new recordings. For instance, King 
Cole is all ready to wax a follow-up to his 
smash hit, "Nature Boy." He has already 
tried out the tune at Ciro's in Hollywood, 
where his audience went mad over it. And 
you will, too. It's called "Portrait of Jenny," 
after the Selznick picture of the same name. 
It's a lush, haunting melody comparable to 
"Laura" of yesteryear in quality and at- 
mosphere and you can bet that top artists 
will rush to follow -Nat's example. 


Then there are a couple of novelties ready 
to assault your ears and drive you nuts the 
minute the ban is lifted. We're lukewarm 
about novelties generally and guess these are 
as cute as the general run of such things. 
But their authorship is interesting. One of 
them, "She Picked It Up In Mexico," a Latin- 
type number, is by one of the most popular 
band-leaders of the 20's, Isham Jones. He 
gave up baton-waving to live on his ASCAP 
royalties some years back, a regrettable de- 
cision to those who loved his dance music, 
and this tune will probably add to his income. 
The other is a natural for the bands that 
double in vaudeville routines . . . it's called 
"The Baby Sitter Song" and was written 
by John Beal, a young actor noted for his 
serious, sensitive personality and sincere act- 
ing ability. It just shows you never can tell. 

The new talent department is all ready, 
too, with a potential sockeroo in the small- 
ensemble division. A brand new trio, The 
Black-Smith Trio (one of the boys is named 
Black, one Smith, and we can only guess 
about the third one), has made a couple of 
sides for a small outfit named Jewel Records 
and has since appeared on Mark Warnow's 
"Sound Off" radio show. They just sort of 
appeared on the musical scene . . . but take 
il from us, they're here to stay. Piano, guitar 
and bass comprise the works, but what the 
boys do with their material is sensational. 
They're real legit musicians, with a wealth 
of modern harmonics and inventiveness that 
is endlessly fascinating to hear. Watch for 
them . . . one of the big companies will 
snatch them up and promote them to eminence, 
just as Capitol did for King Cole. The lift- 
ing of the ban probably will affect the out- 
put of recorded serious music less than it 
will the popular numbers, but we can look 
forward again to a greater variety and ex- 
perimentation in the type of music recorded. 

Meanwhile, you can still add worthwhile 
items to your permanent record collection, 
with a little care in choosing. 


Mercury Records' acquisition of the Tele- 
funken catalog, mentioned in these pages 
some months ago, results now in the first 
releases since pre-war days of noted European 
musicians. Outstanding: Smetana, "Wallen- 
stein's Camp" Symphonic Poem, recorded by 
the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra under 
Kubelik. This almost unknown work of the 
Bohemian composer gets first-rate handling. 


{"October in California is a month of 
^^ extremes . . and an extremely fine 
month in which to visit the Golden 
State! Where else can you expect to 
enjoy a bit of Indian summer . . with 
swimming in the briny . . and a visit 
to America's foremost desert resort, 
Palm Springs, which officially "opens" 
this month? Add to this the oppor- 
tunity to visit mile-high mountain re- 
sorts, and the ever-tempting sea and 
landscape hereabouts. 

Obviously, if you're an October trip- 
per . . you'll need a wardrobe as versa- 
tile as the program you plan to enjoy. 
Your basic travel suit is the start of 
everything: you'll wear it to town, on 
your browsing expeditions, to lunch and 
even to tea (the proper accessories can 
dress it up to surprising heights . . 
so remember a lovely blouse, a bril- 
liant scarf, a scattering of jewelled pins, 
a fur stole or scarf, and an extra hat 
or so to change its mood). 

Be sure to include a comfortable, de- 
lightful knit, the perfect packable and 
non-crushable favorite . . or a soft wool 
which is adaptable to a dozen uses. 
Make sure your topcoat is toned to wear 
with these basic pieces. Since October 
pi eludes a big social season, bring a 
cocktail suit . . in some of the satin 
brocades, perhaps . . or an ankle-length 
dress in one of the exciting new fabrics. 
A formal gown only if you have great 
social aspirations . . and you may find 
the jewelled blouse (news this season) 
is the perfect mid-seasoning for you 
can wear this with a slim to-the-ankle 
skirt or a billowing floor-length one. 

Furs? Wonderful to have, comfort- 
able to wear on so many occasions even 
in California in October! But to the 
opposite extreme . . bring swim suit 
and play togs for an occasional trip 
to desert or beach, or to wear in some 
sunny patio. 

So it's heigh-ho if you come to the 
fair state of California this month. 
Come prepared! 


Los Angeles San Francisco 

Average Maximum 76.3 67.8 

Average Minimum 55.3 53.8 

Highest 102 96 

Lowest AG 43 

Percentage Sunshine 76 70 





BO-PEEP" glamorizes your tiny waist, pampers your luxury leanings with oodles of fullness and oodles af lace. 
Back splits for glorious sleeping comfort . . . Softest multifilament rayon crepe in white, pink, blue or jonquil . . . 
32-40 . Go peep ... at "Bo-Peep" . . . for beauty and luxury and comfort . . . About $9.00 at finer stores 



October, 1948 


Available in: 

ALABAMA — Birmingham, Marion Shop. 

AWZONA — Phoenix, Diamond's. 

CALIFORNIA — Bakersfield, Malcolm 
Brock; Claremont, Town & Country; 
Eureka, Daly Bros.; Glendale, Fash- 
ion Center; Highland Park, Ivers; 
Hollywood, Joyce Frocks; Hunting- 
ton Park, Campus Togs; La Jolla, 
lllers; Los Angeles, The Broadway, 
Bullock's and Sally Shops; Ocean- 
side, Char'ily; Pacific Beach, Caro- 
lyn's; Pasadena, J. W. Mathers; Po- 
mona, Orange Belt Emporium; Rich- 
mond, Albert's; San Bernardino, The 
Harris Co.; San Diego, Marston's, 
and (North Park) Adorable Shop; 
San Jose, L. Hart; San Rafael, Al- 
bert's; Santa Ana, Rankin's Dry 
Goods Co.; Santa Cruz, Sam Leask 
& Sons; Southgate, Fun Togs; Stock- 
ton, Katten & Marengo; Ventura, 
Jan's; West Los Angeles, Rudolph 
Oavis; Whittier, Tibbetts. 

TEXAS — Ft. Worth, R. E. Cox; San An- 
tonio, Wolf Marx; Van Horn, Benton 

WASHINGTON— Vancouver, Hadley's; 
Spokane, Rusan's. 

For other stores, not listed in your 
community, write to Mira lorna Fash- 
ions, Inc. 

WINE. To retail at about $11. 

cJMi/^^dl/l^ ... at a budget price! 

A Mira-Loma design with clever stitching . . . jumbo muff 
pockets . . . covered buttons. Important details unusual at a popular price. 

Mira-Loma Fashions, Inc. 8 6o south los angeles street, los angeles 



l/ou'll be pretty 

coming or going in this Western Fashions authentic matching 
skirt and stole - gray with white stripe, in a California weight wool 
and rayon mixture. 

Starlet Louise La Planche shows off the button front skirt with the triple tier bustle back, 
and the matching stole with harmonizing fringe. Designed by Jery Grinel. $12.95 com- 
plete in sizes 10-16. 


Campus Togs 


October, 1948 





This fall you can fix up a summer 
ravished lawn or build a new one 

with greater ease. Scotts Lawn Food plus Weed 

Control kills the weeds and adds nourishment, and. 

Scotts Seed is unsurpassed for making a thick, 

velvety carpet of grass. But start 

right with the "know how" of our 

IAWN CARE bulletins. For a free 

2 year subscription, drop a card to .. 

O M £c&& & SONS CO. 

Seedsmen since 1870, Morysville, Ohio 



WITH the golden fruits of California, 
with the delicacies that are available 
in your own home town ! Helen Evans 
Brown's famous cook book, California 
Cooks, contains more than 100 unusual 
California recipes . . menus galore! 

Write for Your Copy Today! 

COOKING for your family and friends 
is easy . . and fun . . when you have 
such wonderful, unusual recipes. CALI- 
FORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep 
in your kitchen . . it suggests the 
proper menu, the exciting dish . . at 
just the right time. It's a practical and 
appreciated gift. 

AND California Cooks comes to you, 
postpaid, for only 50 cents! 

Wriie fcr Your Copy Today! 

JUST SEND 50 cents for each copy, 
your name and address to 


1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15. 


by hazel alien pulling 

(captain Gaspar de Portola, young, adven- 
turous, "leather-jacket" soldier of Spain, has 
left for us his story of the white man's first 
intrusion of California — the Indian's western 

Commissioned in 1769 to execute the plans 
of Spain's representative in the New World, 
dynamic, mad Galvez, Gaspar de Portola led 
overland from Mexico the advance guard of 
conquest. He sought the storied Bay of Mon- 
terey. His diary, kept on the journey, may 
be read in the original Spanish and in trans- 
lation, in Publications of Pacific Coast His- 
tory, I, 39-57. 

Without vainglory and without divulging 
state secrets, Portola tells his story. It is an 
account of brave men, bravely led. Long, 
toilsome days spent on sandy stretches and 
steep mountain inclines, restful camps set at 
nightfall near waterholes and pastures where 
natives came and looked with awe-filled eyes; 
grave doubts and dangers that beset the 
wanderers — these are the tales that he tells. 
It's a desultory account of adventure that 
reveals clearly the passage of time and of 
landscape, the endurance of hardship, and 
the grip of grim determination. 


In the same volume there is another ac- 
count of the same expedition. This record, 
first printed in 1770 in Mexico, was immedi- 
ately suppressed by the government. For, 
says Miguel Costanso, its author, "repeated 
attempts of a foreign nation upon the north- 
ern coast of California, with designs by no 
means friendly," had been made. And, he 
goes on, "the country was of pleasing aspect 
. . . the land capable of producing all sorts 
of fruit." Costanso had traveled with Gaspar 
de Portola; he knew the treasures awaiting 
the conqueror. He disclosed values that Spain 
did not wish the world to recognize and 
motives that Spain would not admit. The 
record was confiscated and kept secret for 
decades. But today, you may read — and live 
again those early days when all California 
was an outpost and its history just begun. 

But would you go back further still to 
view California's beginnings? Read then, the 
life of Jose de Galvez and his mad plans 
and machinations for far-flung empires in 
the New World. Herbert I. Priestly's book, 
Jose de Galvez, published in 1916 and now 
found only in libraries, is engrossing history 
that runs its parallel with today's mad whirl 
of international intrigue and warfare. 


California has never lacked adventurers 
and tales of bravery and devotion to a cause. 
One of her oldest devotees was the missionary 
who accompanied Portola on his northbound 
travels. Father Junipero Serra's life among 
the Indians as told by his associate, Father 
Palou, has become a classic among California 
books. Because Father Serra's life was synon- 
ymous with California, the story of his life 
carries the California story through its early 
years to 1784. Its best translation was done 
by C. S. Williams in 1913. It, too, may be 
found in libraries. 

The story of California's exploration makes 
a drama unexcelled, for adventure led them 
all. Accounts of the many who participated, 
gathered into a rapid-survey volume by Robert 
Glass Cleland, provides the outline. Path- 
finders (Macmillan, 1929) sketches in pano- 
ramic sequence the story of California 
through the lives of its bravest men. It 
recounts in brief compass the activities of 
those who beat in deeper furrow the path 
begun by the bravest of them all, Gaspar de 

If you have any questions or would like 
other specific material, please write to Dr. 
Pulling in care of The Californian. 


for gourmets only 

Fine food in an atmosphere 
of convivial friendliness! 

Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth 

CR 5-0191 
BR 2-3432 

FROM 11:30 





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A. These fabulous Mirro-Lens glasses come in black, blond and amber, simulat ed tortoise shell frames, at $9.95 per pair, to give new comfort and eye ease. 

B. Mirro-Lens goggles, gold-filled, at $15, with special brow rest 

C. Driving glasses with amber-clear lens, $6.95, with gold frames 

Order Now! 

Ideal For Holiday Gifts 


Now . . by mail . . you can order these famous 
Mirro-Lens sun glasses direct from California. 
You can see out perfectly . . no one can look in. 
And they can be used as a handy make-up mirror. 
Scientifically designed to eliminate 95% of 
harmful infra-red and ultra-violet sun rays . . 
magically mirrored to eliminate all glare. Ideal for 
sports, driving, sun bathing and all outdoors. 
For men and women. . Fun To Wear! Optically 
ground and polished. Smartly styled simulated 
tortoise shell frames in black, blond and amber . . 
gold-filled, too! They make ideal gifts and you 
will want a pair for yourself. Use the handy 
coupon below . . today! 

To: The Margorita Shop, 

1018 South Main Street, 

Los Angeles 15, California. 

Please send me, postpaid, these Mirro-Lens glasses: 

A. Simulated Tortoise Shell Frames, black, blond, 

amber, $9.95 ea JO 

(Circle your color choice) 

B. Gold-filled frames with special brow rest, $15 ea □ 

C. Driving glasses, amber lens, 12-carat gold 

frames, $6.95 JJ 

Check □ or Money Order □ enclosed 



(City) (Zone) (State) 

Please add 2V2% sales tax if you live in California 

October, 1941 


Style No. 1473. In black, white, pastels or Jewel toned Taffeta. To retail under $25.00 at your favorite store 

EMMA DOMB, Inc., 2225 Palou Avenue, APPAREL CITY, San Francisco 24, California 
• See page 61 for list of stores where this dress is available. 


THE CALI FORNI AN, October, 1941 

c_ya^ \ 

X6 KXa^cq 



HPhere'll be dancing in the streets in San Francisco . . this month . . with joyous celebrations scheduled 
during two weeks of carnival celebrating that day 179 years ago when Portola and has band stumbled 
onto San Francisco Bay. So if you're visiting this city in October, your program will be dramatized by 
costume balls, parades, and excitement, besides the opera, symphony, sports event and other usual diver- 
sion. . . . What to wear for all this gaiety? Suit yourself in San Francisco, an ambiguous 
but succint bit of advice. One good suit with alternately plain or fancy blouses, a fresh 
posie in your buttonhole if you want to go completely native (you'll have every 
doorman in town nodding a pleasant greeting!) . . . Bring a tailored wool dress 
or gabardine, those patient perennials, for sight-seeing jaunts and comfort. A 
topper to be worn over either suit or dress, for although this is a balmy month, 
nights and some days are cool. . . . For special luncheons, dinners, informal 
dancing you'll make good use of a basic crepe or wool, brightened or enriched 
with jewelry or furs, an imaginative hat! . . . The ankle length after-dark dress 
for bigger evenings; for really ultra formal events an elegant gown, for San Francisco 
"dresses" for gala occasions. ... Be sure to visit smart shops along Grant Avenue, Post Street; go into 
Chinatown where pagoda-roofed stores and restaurants line narrow streets; see the Chinese opera at 
least once. . . . Don't miss a cable car ride up swank Nob Hill, down scenic Rus- 

sian Hill . . . to Fisherman's ^iJvvvT S Wharf where there are wonderful seafood restaurants, 

sturdy little boats bob 
"Bohemian phase" 
writers still live in 
apartments. . . . 
equalled food! ) 
Gate Park with its 
tea-garden, aquari- 
Golden Gate Bridge 

ing at docks, impatient to be gone. . . . Revive the famous 

of history at 
squat wooden 


Go down hill to little 1 7 |f" J 
. . Across town you 
5 miles of forests and lawns and 
um. . . . And of course you can't 
longest bridge span in the world. . . . 
your sightseeing sitting down, have cocktails at the Palace 
or lunch at historic Garden Court, at the St. Francis Mural 
Drake's Starlite Roof (sunlight view by day!) The Cliff 
sea and Seal Rocks. ... At least once, whisk to the Top of 
and one of the most powerful views this side of heaven. . . . 
in San Francisco whether you eat at Schroeder's (spare ribs, 
or El Prado (roast beef au jus a la wheelcart). . . . Good 
like Amerlio's (warm and intimate and expensive), The Blue 
gay), The Fly Trap (no flies, no atmosphere, wonderful food). 

&# AT (L 

Telegraph Hill, where artists and 

shacks right next to chrome-shiny 

Italy (unadorned restaurants, un- 

• "must see" Golden 

bridle trails, Oriental 

afford to miss the 

t^isJzi '- 1'' I If you prefer to take 

,, |M Q Hotel's Happy Valley, 

<<\ ll- Room, Sir Francis 

House overlooking the 

the Mark for cocktails 

Dinner is an occasion 

sauerkraut, dark beer) 

food in small places, 

Fox (friendly and 

The Shadows ( red 

jutting out of Tele- 



checkered table cloths, sawdust and a view), Julius' Castle 
graph Hill and overlooking the Bay, The Iron Pot where artists of varying talents eat and show their 
1 wares. . . . Have French food at Jack's, Armenian food at Omar Khayyam's, 

ff \r f Russian food with gypsy music at Balalaika, Chinese food with or without 
i—tt-*- — £^— chopsticks at the swish Lamps of China (or any of the little unswish basement 
hideouts like Lee Jun.) To these places your suit or basic wool dress is ac- 






ceptable . . . and in them you can go on to theatre, symphony, opera. Open- 
— ing nights, of course, are more formal. . . . For hotel dancing, The Palace, 

Mark Hopkins, Fairmont, St. Francis. . . . Night clubs to see (a bit less formal) House 
of Harris, Lido, Bimbo's and Forbidden City all have good floorshows, fun. . . . And be- 
fore you call it a day, sometime past midnight, drop in for a sandwich or plate of Mexican 
food at Al Williams' Papagayo Room at the Fairmont: Celebrity Haven. 


Jjallet length for after dark. Helga's way with 
taffeta and imported gold lame; about $30. Gowns 
photographed in Palace of Legion of Honor. 

Sophisticated San Francisco, lovely city of the 
Golden Gate and true metropolis of the west . . . 
here, some of the world's best-dressed women are 
glimpsed as they enjoy the infinite variety of 
entertainment from the Top of the Mark to deepest 
Chinatown. Traditionally a city of great elegance 
. . . calling for such extreme formality as the 
figure-molding gown of red Chinese brocade. 
above, by Inga-Britt. It's about $185 at 
I. Magnin stores exclusively. 

.Cjmma Domb takes an early California theme, embroiders Bur-Mil taffeta with black lace. About $45 (not 
including mantilla and mitts), at B. Altman, New York; D. H. Holmes, New Orleans; Meier & Frank, Portland. 



•an-- . 

u /"Mc 

" . • " " ■■ • . . 


JLou are in carnival spirit . . . wearing this gaily striped black satin skirt with boned black taffeta bodice fastened 
with multi-colored buttons: Lenora. About $25 at Clothes Closet, Palo Alto. 


>Oo lovely, so romantic ... in Eleanor Green's dreamy gown of taffeta, bright splash of a sash at the hips; about 
$30 at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; Haggarty's, Los Angeles; B. Altman, New York. 


all around the town 

i\| ative San Franciscan or not. you'll bow to 
the perfect drama in clothes like these. Opposite 
page. Lil Alice demure gabardine classic, crisply 
stitched: about $17 at Kahn's Oakland; 
The Broadway, Los Angeles. Jim Pack 



mm wm Wr* '*' "" '• 5 -" f "" p ' * 

Vjitified jumper of heavy bengaline, above; a 
turnabout to be buttoned in front or back, worn 
with other blouses as well as this striped taffeta: 
M. R. Fleischman. Jumper about $20, 
blouse about $13 at Buffums', Long Beach. 

I^mooth sophistication in Fanya's deftly draped 
crepe . . left, the dress for luncheon and tea : 
about $25 at City of Paris, San Francisco. Perfect 
foil for furs like these stone martens. 
Meadowbrook hat. Parker gloves. 


your coat, your suit 
with a wanderlust air 

Vjoat-of-a-lifetime pictured fore and aft: 
The luxurious town-or-country casual with three-way 
versatility: snugly belted, falling free as a peignoir, 
or wrapped smartly around you. Morris Goldman makes 
it of finest wool, great tortoise shell buttons for 
added glamour. In wonderful California colors, 
about $75 at Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago; 
Meier & Frank, Portland. 




Vjalifornia fashions have an affinity for travel . . . casual and comfortable 
in look, smartly sophisticated in manner . . . like these coats and suits 
that are boon companions on any trip, perfect standbys at home. We photo- 
graphed them at San Francisco's famous harbor, to give you going-places 
ideas. Jimmy Thompson's fitted double-breasted bodice buttons up smartly 
to a high roll collar, the skirt is slim in front but rippling to a four-gore 
flare in back ; finest worsted covert in rich fall hues. About S50 at Macy's, 
San Francisco ; Bon Marche, Seattle. Hat by Meadowbrook. Jim Pack bag. 
Nathalie Nicoli's soft tailored suit is "at home" wherever it travels, its 
hand-picked petal pockets and trumpet skirt give it extra flare for the cock- 
tail hour and later! Under $100 at The Emporium. San Francisco; 
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles. Meadowbrook hat. Imported sharkskin pre- 
cisely hand-stitched and styled by Gaines & Co., classic in line but with 
extra cuff and collar interest for excitement; about $85 at Bedell's, Portland. 
Ganson bag. Hat by Roze. 


In California It's.. 

ANN LONDON is a San Francisco deb- 
utante with three loves . . . books . . . 
she collects first editions . . . airplanes 
. . . flying is her pet hobby . . . and jeeps, 
which she says is "flying low." A sopho- 
more at Stanford University, Ann plans 
to travel through Europe next summer. 

school of fashion design in self de- 
fense. Proprietor of a custom shop 
in Pittsburgh, she could hire no effi- 
cient help, decided to train her own. 
Now a San Franciscan, she says 
"I chose California because it's the 
only state where we are taking pride 
in our own designs." Her daughter 
is a ballet dancer; her son manufac- 
tures a '"million balloons every day." 

JOAN POLSDORFER used to write advertising copy and look longingly at the treasures 
in the windows of Georg Jensen on New York's Fifth Avenue. Today, at her Ross home 
in Northern California, she makes the beautiful handwrought jewelry that Georg Jensen 
sells . . brooches, lapel pins, bracelets and earrings that have found their way to the 
wardrobes of America's best-dressed women. Mrs. Polsdorfer, shown here with young son 
Rickey, expresses her individuality in a style combining classic grace with the contem- 
porary spirit. California flowers suggest themes for her most becoming works of art. 

ary will be inaugurated as the first woman mayor 
of Portland, Oregon. Born in Oakland, the 
daughter of Rear Admiral Frank E. McCullough, 
Dorothy obtained her law degree at the Univer- 
sity of California, married and moved to Port- 
land, and since 1929 has had a rapid ascendancy 
in political life. She's a fiery 47 . . . admits it. 

-T or that woman-about-town look . . a suit 
you'll enjoy by Kay-Saks, about $80 at 
-City of Paris, San Francisco. Meadowbrook hat. 


Glass fence encloses yard and sun deck over the garage 

From lanai to the garden with freedom of good living 
Comfortable living room has the Chinese modern touch 

Model House Awarded by 

ONLY A FEW MILES from where Gaspar de Por- 
tola and his brave band of trail blazers camped in 
the hills nearly two centuries ago. the much-publicized 
Portola House has risen in San Francisco to become 
beauteous reality in the California Way of Life . . 
an innovation in the scheme of living in the big city 
by the bay. 

Portola discovered San Francisco Bay, 'tis true,! 
but Architect Angus McSweeney has discovered that 
San Franciscans are not averse to casting aside their 
walk-up apartments for a contemporary, one-story 
house, with plenty of room to relax, and a view. 
To focus attention on the Portola Festival and Pageant! 
in San Francisco this month, a civic-minded commit- 
tee gave birth to the idea of a modern Portola House, 
sponsored its construction, and sold 120.000 tickets at 
$1 each to San Franciscans who felt lucky enough 
to win this unique two-bedroom home. Many more' 
thousands viewed the structure and its trend-modern 
furnishings with an eye for future planning of the 


'ortola Festival Committee 

houses that some day they hope to build. 

Amid fanfare and flash bulbs the drawing was held, 
and there was nary a lucky San Franciscan in all 
those thousands of ticket stubs. Winner was Roy 
Reid, a New Zealand merchant seaman who isn't due 
back in the city for another year. 

Architecturally, the Portola House is an example 
of thoughtful site-planned design. On a single floor 
level, the two bedrooms, living room, dining room, 
master bath, kitchen, storage room and service room 
are cleverly arranged for maximum utility, but the 
floor plan's most interesting features are represented 
in the patio, with its windbreak of structural glass, 
and the secluded sun deck above the garage. All 
principal rooms face the enclosed patio, providing 
outside dining, and the garden, in effect, becomes a 
hot house for the choicest plants. The living and 
dining rooms have all-glass walls on the patio, and 
ventilation is provided by louvres on top of the cur- 
tain valances. 

Wall of structural glass provides unique sheltered garden for flowers 

Floor plan offers utmost in outdoor living with utilitarian arrangement 



Radiant heating, of the type most generally ap- 
proved, consists of copper coils embedded in the 
concrete floor, providing an even temperature con- 
trolled by thermostat, regardless of the climate out- 
side. Occasional carpeting is used over the polished 
black asphalt tile which covers the floor throughout. 
And special attention has been given to the lighting 
in house and patio to achieve a dramatic spot-lighted 

The exterior, of stucco and stone veneer, is de- 
signed to enable all rooms to open up to the glori- 
ous view, and the white composition roof pitches 
toward the center of the house in contrast to the 
conventional peak. Consequently, no gutters along 
the eaves are necessary and drainage is quick and 

In Frank Newman's best "trend modern," the house 
is furnished with color and comfort predominant. 
Shell pink and grayed blue-green combine for the 
living room walls, in the built-in cabinetry and are 
carried throughout the deep-cushioned upholstered 
pieces and draperies. A large gold-flecked antique 
mirror hangs above an Arizona flagstone fireplace. 
View windows from floor to ceiling gaze on a tiered 
lanai, and fluorescent tubes indirectly shine on a citron 
yellow ceiling which is duplicated in several other 

Ebony black woods are basic for the intimate 
dining room, with colorful chair covers of prismatic 
red, blue, yellow, green, red-orange and violet silk 
shantung. Simple accessories, bowls and candelabra 
are of highly polished brass. A warm relief from the 
proverbial all-white is found in the mechanical 
kitchen, where gray, red, citron yellow envelop the 
usual appurtenances in addition to a dishwasher, 
laundry and built-in breakfast table. 

Down the hall from the living room is a bed- 
sitting room in gray, bisque, citron yellow and rich 
red, with twin couches, comfortable chairs and a 
huge lacquered chest. The master bedroom is in soft 

Front view of scale model displays unusual roof 

Rear view emphasizes glamorous treatment of yard 

greens with bisque and citron yellow accents, natural 
blonde wood bed, night stands and vanity. The large 
bath is pink, with modern plaid paper predominantly 
pink. There is a plant container in the bathroom, 
in the hallways, in the kitchen . . in fact, in every 
room. And . . the house boasts a lamp made, of all 
things, from a mandolin! 

There's a lot of good living to be done in the Por- 
tola House in the Lakeside District, corner of Broad- 
moor and Stonecrest Drives. Stoneson Brothers built 
it and Eckbo, Royston and Williams landscaped it 
for an aggregate cost of $35,000. Robert Flynn of 
the Frank Newman Company added $12,000 in fur- 
nishings. But Architect Angus McSweeney, good 
Scotsman that he is, will tell you that the house can 
be built for $25,000 . . providing, of course, that you 
are willing to forego the glass wind screen, the land- 
scaping, and a few other contemporary special fea- 
tures that make the Portola House one of San Fran- 
cisco's finest new homes. 


shining light of your holiday wardrobe 

Think of informal parties, family get-togethers and holiday hustle . . . then think how 
many times you'll need a versatile crepe dress like this one by Sally Forth: gleaming 
metallic collar, cuffs, pockets. Sizes 10 to 18, under $20, at May Company, Los Angeles. 
For additional stores see page 66. 







Dr. Arnold Schoenberg has great music in his fingers . . and in his heart 


COLE PORTER'S Night and Day is known to everybody: 
the hep-cats, the rug-cutters, the jive-jumpers, the stickies, 
the squares and the long-hairs. Not all of them like it. 
Arnold Schoenberg's Transfigured Night is known to a lot 
less people, and not all of them like it. But the boogie- 
woogie level might be surprised to discover how natural 
it would be to take Dr. Schoenberg's dissonances. They 
might hear in them something they thought Bix or Satchmo 
had invented ; or they might even think they heard a riff 
dreamed up by Claude Thornhill ; or they might think the 
whole thing was just "ishy." If they did, it wouldn't sur- 
prise the greatest composer of modern music even one 
little sixteenth note. He's been slugging it out in the 
field of music all his seventy-four years. 

Today he's still slugging it out, but less turbulently. in 
his quiet home in a Los Angeles suburb. He chuckles as 
he remembers the three times audiences in Vienna revolted 
against his music to the point where the concert had to 
be concluded; what harsh and jealous words both Euro- 
pean and American critics used when he introduced new 
and revolutionary composition; and how ill-mannered 
Philadelphia's Academy of Music patrons were as they 
flounced out when his Violin Concerto was presented, say- 
ing it sounded like a New Year's Eve celebration. Today 
he looks back at all the honors that have been rendered 
him, he looks forward at the mountain of work he has 
planned and he's happy, excited, bubbling with new and 
stirring ideas. 

This most dynamic of modern musical personalities is a' 
gentle, charming man . . gracile, rather small of stature 
physically, with a suave graciousness. He dresses in Cali- 
fornia sport clothes, his hair is medium colored, although 
it is thinner than it was, he gesticulates as he talks with 
a slight accent, he is excitable, filled with zeal for life 
and work, and such a perfectionist in both that what he 
says might mistakenly make him sound intolerant, sharp 
or egotistical. 

One forgets he is the formidable inventor of the twelve-' 
tone system when Dr. Schoenberg greets his guests at his 
studio home on North Rockingham Road in Brentwood. A 
high wall with iron gates guards the modest estate. Within, 
two fiercely barking watch dogs turn out to be beige baby 
cocker spaniels who immediately leap playfully on any 

visitor. The slightly neglected lawn and garden contain toys 
that appeal to small boys and puppies, and there are two 
small boys there: Ronnie Schoenberg, eleven, and Larry, 
seven. Nuria, the sixteen-year-old daughter, is away at 
school in Ojai. 

The house is rambling, two-story Spanish and has the 
warm, lived-in-air of a family growing up. The spacious 
living room, with its neat, white curtains and its simple 
furnishings, is the center of the Schoenberg family ac- 
tivity. Here his wife, Gertrude, to whom he's been mar- 
ried twenty-four years, and the children gather like any 
ether family and discuss their daily problems whether 
the Doctor is composing . . or not. When he's there alone, 
it's the work room of a working musician and he stands 
in the center of his studio before a large easel holding 
sheets of clef paper and writes notes as an artist might 
paint or draw a picture. When the family is with him 
it's a living room containing musical instruments, includ- 
ing both piano and organ, and the walls are decorated not 
with Schoenberg's own art work or illustrated reproduc- 
tions of his compositions, 
but with two busts of him- 
self: one, a bronze, by 
Louis Zack, the other, a 
ceramic, by the Los An- 
geles sculptor, Bernard 

The Schoenbergs arrived 
in New York from Ger- 
many in 1934 . . a year 
after the Nazis took over. 
Nuria was two years old and her father was sixty. They 
settled in the East and Arnold Schoenberg became terri- 
bly ill . . so ill that the doctor shook his head with that 
finality they adore. "He said to Gertrude not to get ex- 
cited," Schoenberg grimly recalls, "that I had fourteen 
days to live and that was plenty of time to arrange every- 
thing." Then his face lights up. His eyes twinkle. "But 
I fooled him . . I changed doctors . . and came to Cali- 

He fooled a lot of people with that move. He fooled the 
carpers who slyly hint he came here for reasons other than 
health. "I did not come to work in the movies," he in- 


a canorous estimate of arnold schoenberg who set a new pattern with a twelve-toned scale 
. . his music and his genius have contributed to culture for more than seventy years 

dignantly insists. "That is absolutely untrue." He puzzled 
the eugenists a trifle by having a son when he was sixty- 
three and another when he was sixty-seven. He shocks his 
coffee-drinking, all night-kibitzing colleagues by arising at 
six-thirty every morning so he can drive the two boys to 
school. "The fresh air is good for me," he says energetically 
as he walks across the studio floor like an athlete fifty 
years younger. And well he might be, for in spite of the 
dreadful warnings of that eastern physician, Schoenberg 
didn't give up playing tennis until he was sixty-nine. 

Ronnie plays now. Tennis, that is. He started playing 
the violin at a very early age, his father says, "but gave it 
up when he was five." Now he plays the cello in the school 
orchestra. All the children are musical in that they appre- 
ciate music, but, like anyone else, they do not want to 
work any more." 

Schoenberg is more enthusiastic about Ronnie's prowess 
as a tennis player than he is about him as a cellist. "I 
like to look at my boy play tennis," says Schoenberg, who 
would rather watch a singles match between Kramer and 
Riggs than a Beethoven contest between Mitropoulos and 
Stokowski. "Ronnie displays promise of becoming a 
champion even when playing with much more experienced 

Arnold Schoenberg was 
born in Vienna, Austria, 
September 13, 1874, and 
lived there until he was 
twenty-one. "I had one 
brother and my father 
and mother. Mother was 
not musical but I remem- 
ber my father's singing. 
These were early memories 
as he died when I was six- 
teen. I began to study violin at the age of eight," Schoen- 
berg reminisces. "And with my second lesson I brought 
a little composition along with me. My teacher was pleased 
and from then on I always wrote." 

As was the custom in those days in Vienna. Schoenberg 
played with amateur groups in the performance of chamber 
music. For his ensemble he wrote first for violin alone, 
then advanced into duets and trios. "Whatever I played, 
I composed for. We even made one of the instruments 
for our trio. We lacked a cello, but we used a violin strung 
with zither strings and that substituted very nicely." Of 
course, Schoenberg was the player of this exotic instru- 

The youthful musician, after completing the six years' 
course at Vienna's Realschule at the age of sixteen, finally 
decided to be a composer, but a professional one. For 
five years he slaved at his new life. Then, at twenty-one, 
his friends thought him good enough to show his composi- 
tions to Alexander von Zemlinsky, who knew Brahms and 
was considered an authority. They became good friends and 

THE AUTHOR: Ruth K. Rivkin wrote the interesting story of At- 
water Kent for the May issue oj The Californian . . followed with 
this enlightening sketch of one of the world's great composers . . 
and promises to spotlight additional California personalities in new 
issues to come. Mrs. Rivkin has been Hollywood editor for United 
Nations World magazine and a contributor to many other national 
publications. She was born in Minneapolis, was graduated from the 
University of Minnesota and is married to Allen Rivkin, the writer. 
Ruth lives in beautiful Beverly Hills, collects cook books, is an 
expert of floriculture, plays the piano spasmodically, prefers a dry 
Gibson and has two dachshunds . . one, "Augusta Weyerhaeuser" 

were associated in Polyhymnia, an orchestral society. 
Schoenberg played the cello. Zemlinsky conducted. From 
Zemlinsky, Schoenberg, who was self-taught in musical 
theory as well as practice, received his only formal in- 
struction: counterpoint. 

It was almost inevitable that Schoenberg became a 
teacher himself. "I had the ability to do what the books 
asked, so I could teach, although, I myself, was self- 

But before he got the chance to do any formal teach- 
ing he went to Berlin where he got a position as Kapell- 
meister of Ernst von Wolzogen's Vberbreth, an artistic cafe 
in Berlin. There he had the leisure to start some serious 
composing. Richard Strauss heard the yet uncompleted 
Gurre-Lieder, liked it and 
got Schoenberg a teaching 
post and scholarship at the 
famed Stern Conservatory. 
Today, Schoenberg feels 
that "men are very bad 
animals. They think only 
of their own interests. A 
very few have wanted to 
help the young musician. 
But Richard Strauss and 
Gustav Mahler were always ready to help other people." It 
was Mahler who encouraged Schoenberg, without agree- 
ing with him when, in 1903, he heard his works performed 
by the Rose Quartet in the Viennese Ansorge-Verein. 

Schoenberg says today that Berlin was "the greatest 
music center at that time. It had three separate opera houses 
where such famous men as Bruno Walter and Otto Klem- 
perer were among those conducting." 

His success as a teacher continued through the years. Not 
only did he instruct in Amsterdam and Vienna, but since 
he has lived in the Southwest, he has been a distinguished 
member of the faculty of the University of California at 
Los Angeles. About four years ago he retired from that 
chair and since has confined himself to private teaching. 
He conducts his classes once a week . . on Sundays. 

His influence on his pupils has been great although he 
himself feels "Teaching takes your mind off composing. 
The pupils' music is more in your thoughts than your own. 
So I can only write during vacation." Among his Ameri- 
can pupils are Leonard Stein, who is also a teacher and 
of whom Schoenberg says. "He is very talented and original 
in his teaching"; Gerald Strang, who teaches and com- 
poses; Dr. Dika Newlin of Columbia University, and Von 
Langlie, whom Schoenberg classifies as a musical linguist. 
Among his European pupils still alive, Karl Rankl is 
head of Covent Garden in London, and in Germany, where 
all such music was sternly banned by Hitler as being 
modern and decadent, Winfried Zillig, one of his German 
students, is now first conductor of radio at Frankfurt-Au- 

"Some of my pupils turn out to be twelve-tonalists. 
Others not," states Schoenberg. Much to the bewilderment 
of those critics who believe him to be a master of discord 
and confusion in music, he says, "I do not approve of 
using any instruments except those that have fixed pitch. I 
have no use for trick composition." 

Occasionally motion picture composers have come to 
him for instruction. "They all had the wrong ambition," 
Schoenberg feels. "They all wanted to write fugues. It 
is no longer necessary to write (Continued on page 65) 



The doughty captain of dragoons be^an a txek in 17( it c 

FOR A MAN who missed his objective twice, and stumbled on Si if 
Francisco Bay quite by accident, Don Gaspar de Portola has receivi! 
an inordinate amount of attention from historians, and a great de Jit 
of publicity this summer from the city by the Golden Gate. 

Portola's niche in history was reserved for him because he "dij i,l 
covered" San Francisco Bay. It is debatable whether he ever saw | «i» 
. . his scouts found it while he was encamped in the Palo Alto hilt sd 
and some historians give Sergeant Jose Francisco de Ortega the not «]« 

The good Don was sent from Baja California to expel the Jesuii ri 
from California and help the Franciscans, under Fra Junipero Sern lis 
establish missions. Portola was also given instructions to establi: i» 
a fort at Monterey to protect that sector of the Spanish Empire froi t 
encroachment by other foreign powers. On Portola's first, or abci iii 
tive, trip north, he camped at the mouth of the Salinas River ar in 
couldn't find Monterey Bay, although the party could hear the sui ffl 

Returning from San Francisco Bay, the party again camped (I hi 
Monterey Bay, this time at what is now Pacific Grove, and aga! w 
didn't recognize the Bay . . they called it an ensenada (or "op^ ilffl 
roadstead"), which perhaps it is. After arriving back in San Diegi be 
where he rendezvoused with other parties of the expedition, Porto k 
was persuaded to make another try for Monterey. This time he foui 
it . . the third time was the charm. 

Not since 1909 has Portola been honored in the city by the Goldi ta 
Gate which he "discovered" in 1769. But this year the businessm* illi 
are going all out with a celebration that they hope will make the t 
cash registers jingle with the rhythm of Spanish castanets. If Portolai ml 
crew should return for the celebration (for that matter, they're < t 
the way now, with the help of the Festival Committee) they wouldr fc 
be plagued with scurvy as they were 179 years ago. The fifth anr 
versity of the free Farmer's Market was celebrated this summer 1 
the crowning, with a ripe tomato, of the driver of the 45th thousan 
vehicle to enter the grounds. For the publicity received, manag 
ment of the Market would almost certainly keep Portola's expeditic 
supplied with fresh vegetables, including tomatoes, as expensive i 
they might be. 

The doughty adventurer has been honored, and rightfully s 
by a number of communities in the state. San Francisco has a junii 
high school and a traffic artery atop Twin Peaks carrying the goc 
Don's Catalan name. Portola is also the name of a community of T 

San Francisco is a city of cosmopolitans . . of beautiful women . . and world tra> 

Celebrates ride of portola with civic festival 

at changed the course of history in California 


uple of thousand people in Plumas County, up in the beautiful 
ather River country, but no one has ever accused Gaspar of having 
indered off course that far. 

If Portola should grope his way into Northern California once 
ain, he would probably recognize only one characteristic as having 
mained unchanged . . the never-changing, enveloping fog which 
used him no end of trouble 169 years ago and which still gives 
ivelers the willies. Commerce from the seven seas now makes San 
ancisco one of the great ports of the world. The municipal air- 
rt is being expanded into the largest on the Pacific Coast to ac- 
mmodate the increasing number of planes plying to and from a 

re of countries. This major construction project required the 
iving of a mountain, literally, to fill in part of the Bay. 
Surveys are being made for a second Bay bridge between San 
ancisco and the East Bay. This will probably start from the San 
ancisco side at about where Ortega came down to the estero, and 
lieve some of the murderous traffic on the present Bay bridge. The 
)lden Gate bridge, connecting with Marin County, is still con- 
lered adequate. 

Bay Area communities surrounding San Francisco, and the perimeter 
unties, are participating in the post-war prosperity that has been 

the increase since V-J Day. Farmers and ranchers of the fertile 
lleys in Northern California have never received such good prices 
r their products. Commercial fishing is in a decline, but the charter 
iats are carrying more pleasure fishermen than ever before. The 
anufacturing industry is expanding its facilities with many new 
ants specializing in a score of things once made only in the East. 
The construction business is booming . . both in commercial and 
sidential buildings. This is led in San Francisco by a 22-story 
Bee building now being erected by Standard Oil, and a sports arena 
hich will be the home of the ever-popular Ice Follies. The boom 

building throughout the United States has caused the lumbering 
dustry to work overtime. Most of the long-time strikes in the big 
mber mills in the north have been settled and the mills are now 
orking on a 24-hour day basis. Many "one-man" sawmills are now 
aerating throughout the mountains in the northern part of the state, 
nd any number of these were started and are operated by ex-service- 
The great Bay has had its shoreline altered (Continued on page 64) 

Everyone goes to Fishermen's Wharf . . for seafood and a look at the boats 

Turn table and Powell Street cable car inspired winning Rose Parade float 
A mecca for tourists is the famous old Cliff House overlooking Seal Rocks 

•NTS • »53BK " 


so ft lights 
for nights 

You'll be pretty as a picture . . in the 

shortie gown, left, by Lady Helen of 

California. Yoke so quaint, rich with lace 

. . . cut like a nightshirt; sizes 

32 to 38, about $11. Below, taffeta 

slip for formals, backless and elasticized 

at waist . . . sizes 32 to 44, about $6, 

by Pandora. Opposite, coachman's 

coat in brocaded satin, taffeta lined; 

sizes 10 to 20, about $40, by Stellar. 



Today's underfashions are 
scientifically designed 
not only for beauty but 
for health and comfort as 
well. Above, long 
line bra of jacquard by 
Cordelia of Hollywood. 
Center, lace garter belt 
with satin bands in 
center front: Sko-Form. 
Below, a maternity 
bra with three-way 
adjustment; for nursing 
the lace panel unfastens. 

Also in broadcloth and 

all satin; Anne Alt. 

W 1 ' 

/ £ 




It was Summer, 1926, when Dr. Isaac Hampshur 
Jones gathered on his private court in Los An- 
geles a small group of citizens whose greatest 
bond of friendship was their common love of 
tennis. Their ideal was "to create interest and 
enthusiasm in amateur tennis, to bring to Southern Cali- 
fornia recognition as a tennis center, and to perpetuate an 
annual tournament of national and international prom- 
inence." They formed the Tennis Patrons Association of 
Southern California, helped to build the sprawling Los 
Angeles Tennis Club, and began giving the annual Pacific 
Southwest Sectional Championships which today ranks 
with Wimbledon and Forest Hills. And, according to the 
rest of the world, international champions have been pro- 
duced at an alarming rate. 

The Sutton sisters, Bunny Ryan, Harvey Snodgrass, 
Gerald C. Young, Alan Herrington, Alice Marble, Gene 
Mako, Welby Van Horn, Bobby Riggs, Frankie Parker, 
Pauline Betz, Ted Schroeder, Bob Falkenburg, and that 
giant killer of them all, Jack Kramer . . those are names 
to remember. 

Pacific Southwest opened its twenty-second season this 
year on September 25 with fanfare, foreign consuls, movie 
stars and a heavy sprinkling of society. For the elite of the 

Miss A. Louise Brough and Craufurd Kent, tennis patron, on 
court. Louise won three titles this season at Wimbledon. 


Southern California's famous "Pacific 

Center court is the battleground for champions . . last year's men's doubles went 82 games, 

Avid tennis enthusiasts are Mrs. Graham Sterling, Jr., and Mrs. 
Hyde Braly . . at the moment in the club refreshment bar. 

The aura of Hollywood and championship tennis each year have 
combined to produce a spectacular week in California. 

Southland and the motion picture industry have passionate- 
ly taken tournament tennis to their hearts. Some come to 
see and to be seen, but all enjoy the thrilling games that 
each year engage the world's champions. To get a ticket 
it's almost "who do you know?" The center court boxes 
are regularly over subscribed, leaving the disappointed 
choice seats, however, in the shady west stand. John Public 
usually is content to cheer from the sunny east and both 
ends of the court. 

On a big day you'll see Clark Gable, Van Johnson, 
Walter Pidgeon, the Ozzie Nelsons, Robert Stack, George 
Murphy, Spencer Tracy, Basil Rathbone and a score of 
other stars mixing with the social Leonard K. Firestones, 
Justin Darts, Alphonso E. Bells, Hyde Bralys, Milton 
Teagues and the justly famous Helen Wills Moody Roark. 
Two years ago "Big Jake" Kramer and Frederick 
Schroeder, Jr., brought the Davis Cup back to America 
and were promptly rated the greatest tennis players in 
the world. At Wimbledon last summer spectators were 
startled to find that most of the winners were not 
only from the United States, but from California. The 
Pacific Southwest this year had lost a champion or two 
to the pro ranks . . Kramer and Pauline Betz are out- 
standing examples . . but there remained the backbone 

of America's amateur tennis might, and a fine crop of Cali- 
fornia youngsters to pick up the togas that have been so 
proudly worn . . Parker, Schroeder, Falkenburg, Edward 
Maylan, Earl Cochell, Pancho Gonzales, Seymour Green- 
berg, Hugh Stewart, Tom Brown, John Fleitz, Harry Likas, 
Louise Brough, Gertrude Moran, Beverly Baker, Helen 
Pastall, Nancy Chaffee, Margaret Dupont, Patricia Todd, 
Dorothy Bundy Cheney and Gracyn Kelleher Wheeler. 

It is only through the continued support of the Tennis 
Patrons Association that many of the players have achieved 
their fame. Tournament proceeds become financial aid in 
the junior development program . . for lessons and equip- 
ment . . for the perfection of the game. But it is the major 
domo of western tennis, Perry T. Jones, who is largely 
responsible for the development of the individual player. 
Jones has spent eighteeen years as tournament manager for 
the Tennis Patrons Association and is secretary for the 
parent Southern California association. For eighteen years 
he has guided, encouraged and scolded a small army of 
young players who have come on to capture world-wide 
recognition. Jones, himself, is a clam for the press. Rather, 
he would prefer that Southern California's tennis cham- 
pions . . through their consistent ability and good sports- 
manship . . speak for themselves. 


Southwest" lures big names and smart fashions to center court 

Ted Schroeder helped win Davis Cup Society's Mmes. Maynard Toll, James Copley Jack Kramer brought son David to see 

s-L — < « -ir.r-ri-ffi 

Ozzie Nelson and his Harriet autograph racket for a young player 
Robert Stack and Mrs. Cortlandt Hill regularly attend the games 


for daytime pleasure 

You've asked for them . . the 
California jumper for fall! The 
comfortable two-piecer in plain and gay 
color to take you shopping, through the 
campus and to class, a top-notch spectator 
at day-time sporting events. They're 
just right when the cool fall breezes 
blow! At left is Addie Masters' jersey 
jumper with striped jersey blouse, about 
at I. Magnin stores. At right is 

Casual Time's clan plaid jumper, about 


plain blouse about $11 at 

Buffums', Long Beach. 


CHRISTINE LARSON, 20th Century-Fox starlet of "Rose of Cimarron," in black faille jumper, left, good with 
blouse . . . Junior Miss of California; for date or days, sizes 9 to 15, about $13 at Buffums'. Long Beach; 
Carson's, Chicago. Pussy-in-well is "Mr. Winterbottom." 

LITTLE MONEY dress, right, in Cohama suede cord will see you through the day: Mira-Loma Fashions. 
Sizes 9 to 15, about $13 at Bullock's, Los Angeles; The Harris Co.. San Bernardino; R. E. Cox, Ft. Worth. 



by Helen Evans Brown 

U Apparently miffed because he muffed his first mission, 
that of locating Monterey, Don Gaspar de Portola failed 
to see the charms of California or its promise of great 
riches. Fact is, he didn't like the place. But Californians, 
turning a sun-tanned cheek, have continued to respect the 
memory of the first Governor of the Califomias . . have 
even named a famous dish in his honor. 

Chicken Portola "is a dish as surprising as it is en- 
trancing. Tender young chicken cooked tightly sealed in a 
cocoanut shell! A charming and rather rare little book, 
"Bohemian San Francisco," written by Clarence E. Ed- 
words and published by Paul Elder & Co., in 1914, was 
my introduction to this exotic and altogether exciting 
dish. Mr. Edwords names Coppa, a famous cook and res- 
taurateur of pre-fire days, as the creator of the dish, and 
gives his somewhat vague but wonderful recipe for it. 
Since then, in my culinary snoopings, I have found many 
other recipes for it. One of them renamed the dish and 
gave Hawaii credit, though the recipe was Coppa's exactly! 
Another called it Chicken Portola but said it came from 
the West Indies . . still Coppa's recipe though, in some- 
what different format. It also turns up as Chicken Tortola. 
but that recipe (by Charles H. Baker, Jr., in "The Gentle- 
men's Companion") 
has several touches of 
originality as well as 
evidence that the au- 
thor has made the 
dish himself and 
knows what he's talk- 
ing about. But that's 
not surprising, he al- 
ways does. 

I give you Coppa's 
recipe, or at least what 
emerged from my 
kitchen after a bit of 


Allow one cocoanut for each person to be served. Cut a 
slice off the top, about one-sixth of the way down. This 
may be done with a hand saw if you don't mind a few 
nicked fingers, but the best way is to seek out a friend 
who has a power saw . . a couple of seconds and the job 
is done. Now, using a strong spoon (I found a steel 
kitchen spoon the perfect tool), scoop out a goodly portion 
of the cocoanut. But evenly. The idea is to leave the 
cocoanut shell and the lid with a lining of about a quarter 
of an inch of meat. For each four cocoanuts use one tender 
frying chicken, cut in serving pieces. Brown the chicken 
lightly in a quarter of a cup of olive oil, then set aside. 
To the oil remaining in the pan add four slices of bacon, 
cut in dice, a large onion, chopped, a large green pepper, 
also chopped, and a good-sized clove of garlic that has 
been macerated with a teaspoon of salt (how I hope you 
have a mortar and pestle or at lease a wooden potato 
masher and a wooden bowl ! ) . Let this cook quietly until 
the vegetables are wilted, then add three cups of peeled 
chopped tomatoes (Oh, all right, use canned tomatoes, 
drained!) and a few grindings of pepper. Simmer some 
more . . say thirty minutes . . then add two ears of green 
corn, the kernels scraped from the cob, and a quarter 
of a cup of the cocoanut (You'll have lots of cocoanut 
left, so plan a cake or a curry or some such with the left- 

Now divide the chicken into the cocoanut shells in your 
most judicious manner . . a piece of dark meat (leg or sec- 
ond joint) and a piece of white meat (wing or breast) 
to each nut. Fill with the sauced vegetables, smear the 
rim of the cocoanut with a paste of flour and water, and 
replace the cap. Set the cocoanuts in a pan containing 
an inch or so of water and bake at 350° for iy 2 hours, 
basting occasionally. Here, let me confess that Coppa 
strains the vegetables from his sauce . . all save the corn 


and cocoanut. I could- 
n't bear to strain out 
all that goodness, but 
if you think Coppa 
knew best, go ahead. 
Each guest rates a 
whole cocoanut to 
himself, and it's up to 
him to pry off the lid 
after it's set before 
him. The wonderful 
aroma that greets him 
when he succeeds will 
be his reward. There's 
another thing I hate 
to do to Coppa, but 
this dish . . or a reasonable facsimile . . may be made 
without fresh cocoanut. Use an earthenware casserole, 
sealing the lid on with a flour paste just as you would the 
top of the cocoanut. The only difference is you'll have to 
add a cup of grated cocoanut to the mixture. (I suggest 
you first rinse the "store" cocoanut in boiling water to get 
rid of some of that sweetness.) Though this dish won't 
lack in flavor it certainly will in drama! 

But served in a shell or in a casserole, this dish deserves 
the honor of an accompanying wine. A California Vin 
Rose would be nice, but if you prefer a white wine or a 
red wine, serve it. The right wine is the wine that tastes 
right to you! 

Whereas Portola's only apparent contribution to Cali- 
fornian cuisine was to have a dish named after him, Father 
Junipero Serra, Portola's sometime companion and co- 
founder of the Presidio in Monterey, was responsible for 
first planting many of the fruits that have since made 
California famous. Serra had to have his wine . . for 
sacramental purposes . . so he planted vines and made it 
himself, thus becoming California's first vintner. Today, 
California's wine industry is something to brag about, and 
we do. With a variety of climates, soils and growing con- 
ditions, we can raise many different types of wine grapes, 
make many varieties of wine. Every year is a vintage year 
in California, and many of California's vineyards are gain- 
ing world-wide reputations as producers of fine wines. 
October brings "Wine Week" to the nation and a special 
treat to readers of California Cooks. The Wine Institute 
has created three 
recipes which will de- 
light you. Here they 
are, tested by their 
kitchens. (The paren- 
thetical cracks are 
mine, as if you didn't 
know! ) 


Have a tender chicken 
of 31/2 to 4 pounds 
cut in pieces for serv- 
ing, then dust with salt 
and (fresh ground, please) pepper. Put 2 tablespoons of 
butter and 2 tablespoons of oil (olive if the budget can 
take it) into a heavy skillet with a tight-fitting lid; add 
chicken and saute until golden brown, turning the pieces 
frequently. Meantime, remove the stems and tough outer 
leaves from 4 medium-sized artichokes, and cut off about 1 
inch of the tops; cut lengthwise in quarters and remove the 
fuzzy chokes. When chicken is nicely browned, add arti- 
chokes, one 4-ounce can of mushrooms with the liquor (or 
fresh mushrooms, maybe?), and 1 cup of California Reisling 
or any white table wine. Cover tightly and simmer gently 
for 45 minutes to one hour, or until chicken is tender. 
Remove chicken and artichokes to a serving platter and 
keep warm. Beat 2 egg yolks with a cup of cream, add to 

the liquid in the skillet, stir over low heat until the sauce 
thickens. Remove from heat; add 1 tablespoon chopped 
parsley, and salt and pepper (you-know-what-kind-or-am-I- 
hipped-on-the-subject?) . Pour over chicken and artichokes. 
Serves 3 or 4 (Says the Wine Institute optimistically. It's 
so good I wouldn't bank on that). Note: If fresh artichokes 
are not obtainable, 8 canned artichoke hearts (or artichoke 
bottoms) may be substituted. Add them to the chicken 15 
to 20 minutes before it is done. Serve with a California 
Reisling or a Sonoma Sylvaner. 


Wash a cup and a half of rice and cook until tender in 
3 quarts of boiling water with ll/o tablespoons of salt. 
Rinse with hot water, 
add a bunch of water 
cress, coarsely chop- 
ped, and toss lightly. 
(I'd toss in a couple 
of tablespoons of melt- 
ed butter, too). Pack 
hot rice into an oiled 
1-quart ring mold, 
turn out on a platter, 
and fill with creamed 
sweetbreads. To pre- 
pare the sweetbreads, 
place 2 pairs of them 
in two cups of boiling 
water to which two 
tablespoons of vinegar have been added. Simmer for 20 
minutes. Then plunge into cold water for about 5 minutes. 
Remove tubes and membrane and cut into %-inch squares. 
To make the sauce, blend a quarter of a cup (l/§ pound) 
of melted butter with a quarter of a cup of flour, add 2 
cups of hot milk (I hope it's rich!) about a third at a time, 
stirring constantly until smooth and thickened. Blend to- 
gether 2 well-beaten egg yolks (well, that will add rich- 
ness), 11/2 teaspoons of salt, % teaspoon of pepper (you 
guess, this time), 2 teaspoons of grated onion, 1 table- 
spoon of lemon juice, and 14 cup of California sherry. 
Add this to the white sauce, stirring constantly. Add the 
cooked sweetbreads. Heat thoroughly and serve in the rice 
ring. (Love those sweetbreads, but love those brains, too, 
prepared in exactly the same way.) Here, a very delicate 
white wine, perhaps a Semillon, would be delightful with 
either the sweetbreads or the brains. 


To serve 4 or 5 generously, buy ll/o pounds of lean veal 
stew meat. Salt and pepper the cubes of meat, string them 
on metal or wooden skewers, and roll them in flour. Heat 
a small amount of oil or bacon drippings with a peeled 
clove of garlic in a large skillet. Brown the floured meat 
on all sides in the oil. Remove and discard the garlic. 
To the skillet add 14 cup chopped onion, l/o cup chopped 
celery, % cup California Sauterne (or Semillon), and % 
cup canned consomme. Cover snugly and simmer slowly 
about an hour, until meat is very tender and most of the 
liquid has cooked away. Uncover and continue cooking, 
turning occasionally, about 15 minutes, or until the veal 
is coated with a rich brown glaze. Remove meat and keep 
hot. To skillet add 1 cup hot water and 14 cup Sauterne, 
then stir in 2 tablespoons of flour mixed smooth with 14 
cup warm water, stirring, until slightly thickened. Season 
well. Serve with rice . . that flaky white rice you cook so 
well . . and accompany with green beans delicately herbed 
with savory, a chilled California Sauterne, crusty hot 
French bread, a green salad, and a cheese that's proud 
of its age. There's a meal worthy of many repeats! 

Thrifty gals know that an inexpensive bottle of Cali- 
fornia table wine served with a run-of-the-pot meal makes 
the event a gala one. Smart gals know that wine in the 
kitchen is a sure sign of a genius at work. 



Meet Ray Smith . . He 

loves to spend 

other people's money 

Ray Smith is an entrepreneur of big city projects . . public speaker with portfolio 

X he telephone rang in the outer office of Ray W. 
Smith, executive vice-president of Greater Los Angeles 
Plans, Inc. Ray Smith is chief prodder, spear-carrier 
and organizer in the privately financed movement to 
build the greatest auditorium and the greatest opera 
house in the world. From 35 to 50 million dollars 

"New York Times calling Mr. Smith!" 

The metropolitan thin man who coined the expressions 
"Downtown Los Angeles Has Everything," and "Size Is 
Not Enough," the latter frequently borrowed by Mayor 
Fletcher Bowron, picked up the phone and spoke briefly: 

"No, any decision of the Metropolitan Opera Company 
to cancel its 1948-49 season does not affect Los Angeles. 
No, any decision of the Met is incidental to our plans 
to go ahead with our own opera house. No, we have 
received no proposals from the Met to transfer the com- 
pany permanently to Los Angeles." 

And yet . . the bespectacled man with the big bow tie 
will tell you that he has "the weakest 'no' in America." 
Ray Smith has figured in the development of the pro- 
jected Pershing Square underground garage, the Golden 
Gate International Exposition, new Southern California 
freeways, the huge Los Angeles Airport and countless 
other civic adventures. Right now he's busy talking 
with big businessmen, architects, property owners . . 
and raising money . . baskets full. 

Construction of the mammoth auditorium and the 
beautiful opera house probably won't begin for two 
years. But if a spade of earth is turned by that time 
Ray Smith will be "happy as hell." 

The 52-year-old entrepreneur was executive v.p. of 

the Downtown Businessmen's Association of Los An- 
geles when a prominent merchant called him into his 
office one afternoon in 1945. "Here, Ray, is a check 
for $5000. Spend it developing some plans for a big 

Smith did. He consulted Architect Dwight Gibbs, 
formulated some scale models, and arbitrarily selected 
for future discussion the six-block site in downtown 
Los Angeles that is bounded by Fremont and Flower 
Streets, from Third to Fifth. This was to provide space 
for both the auditorium and opera house of the future. 
P. G. Winnett, president of Bullock's Department Store; 
Harvey S. Mudd, international mining tycoon; Albert 
B. Ruddock, capitalist, and Charles H. Strub, head of 
the Los Angeles Turf Club . . all philanthropists as well 
as good businessmen . . furthered the project. They 
scheduled a luncheon at the exclusive California Club 
for thirty of the city's top financial leaders, encouraged 
Ray Smith to spring his plan and display his models 
. . and gather up more money for the vast preliminary 
work. Fifteen men pledged $1000 each, but one man 
later thought better of his magnanimous ways, sliced 
his contribution in half. A Los Angeles career woman 
volunteered to make up the difference. 

The group then incorporated as Greater Los Angeles 
Plans, a non-profit organization, to stimulate their dream. 
During the war only study of the project was feasible. 
But the site and architectural committee, headed by At- 
torney John Macfarland, was directed to determine the 
site. After several months study and prodigious help 
from "outside experts," the committee returned with the 
recommendation that the original site be accepted for 
the auditorium. With the opera house it was different. 
The fashionable Wilshire area seemed to offer the most 
advantages, and the opera house was planned to be 
erected facing Lafayette Park. 

Next major problem was to decide on the architects. 
GLAPI wanted the best, gave Macfarland's committee 
one year to choose. And their recommendations were ac- 
cepted with enthusiasm: Wal- (Continued on page 62) 

Internationally known architects for world's largest auditorium and the 
finest opera house are shown with Los Angeles executives in New York: 
Wallace K. Harrison, left, chairman of board of design; William W. 
Wurster, Max Abramovitz, Eero Saarinen, Henry Dreyfuss, noted indus- 
trial designer; Gordon B. Kaufmann, Henry Duque, president of Greater 
Los Angeles Opera Associates, Inc.; standing, left, Charles O. Matcham, 
William Pereira, Ray W. Smith, executive v.p. Greater Los Angeles Plans, 
Inc., and Reginald Johnson. Construction may start within two years. 


Catalina sweater ensembles are making 
the country cashmere conscious, and 
the Bruce Bennetts have a typical Cali- 
fornia wardrobe. For her leisure out- 
door moments, Mrs. Bennett chooses a 
full-fashioned short-sleeved slip-on to 
wear under her long-sleeved cardigan. 
Bruce wears a long-sleeved slip-on in 
forest green, with the British rib neck- 
line. The younger Bennetts sport west- 
ern sweaters with contrasting yoke, 
body and whipstitching on the collar. 

|n Hollywood there's magic to conjure up exotic fashions, kleig lights, foreign motor cars, lavish 
premieres, sensational stories of night life. And there is the quieter side . . the people who con- 
stitute the backbone of the movie industry, the wholesome manifestation of our California Way of 
Life. Mr. and Mrs. Bruce Bennett and their two youngsters are just such a family. You remember 
Bruce from his performance with Joan Crawford in "Mildred Pierce." Soon you'll be seeing him 
co-starred with Virginia Mayo in Warner Bros.' "Smart Girls Don't Talk." 

Bruce started his picture career in 1931, acting in a Pete Smith short, married Jeannette, the 
debutante daughter of the Ralph Braddocks of Los Angeles, in 1933, and set about to carve a 
niche for himself in the motion picture world. It hasn't all been easy. There were times when 
"calls" were infrequent. That's when Bruce learned to bake a delicious chocolate cake and pick 
up a woodworking hobby that has really paid off. A good port of the beautiful furniture in the 
Bennetts' Los Feliz Hills home is his handiwork. 

With their two children, Christina, age 4, and little Christopher, just past 16 months, the Bennetts 
are grouped here on the lawn, enjoying the family life that is the real Hollywood . . away from 
press agentry and the perpendicular pronoun. 


LOOKING DOWN from the rarefied atmosphere of high places 
is a habit with sculptor Boris Lovet-Lorski. He occupies a 
pinnacle of fame by virtue of thirty years of solid accomplish- 
ment in this most exacting of all arts. And he lives on the 
highest mountain-top overlooking Beverly Hills. 

It's a fitting setting for this many-faceted genius, so much I 
a product of our times, so much more an observer. He does I 
not seek escape from humanity, rather the larger view that lends if 
meaning and perspective. Here is a thoroughly civilized man, m 
easily gracious, friendly and sincere. If he holds himself aloof, 
this man who counts both kings and commoners as customers 
and friends, it is not snobbishness, but characteristic of personal 
integrity. Those who inhabit the lonesome heights of genius 
must perforce be exiled from their fellow man. 

California is his chosen home, yet he admits to spiritual lone- 
liness here. There are not many who can speak of art with him 
. . so few who understand. 

"Oh, I have friends," he says, "good friends. But so often 
I meet someone who asks hopefully if I am not a director or a 
producer at the studios. I say no. Then . . perhaps I am a 
writer, or a musician, or a composer of music for the films? I 
say I am not connected with the studios, and their faces fall 
down to here! Then they ask: 'Well, what do you do?' I tell 
them I am a sculptor. They do not understand. They actually 
do not know what a sculptor does! Do you know, I often find 
it is easier to say that I am a manufacturer of champagne corks, or 
perhaps that I have invented a new kind of hairpin which I 
am producing in great quantities," he laughs jovially. "Then 
they are really impressed. Ah, Hollywood! It's wonderful." 

Thus, whimsically, he deplores the lack of a real cultural 
center here. "In Europe, a city this size would be a capital, 
with three, four, five operas, with many theatres, with its own 
ballet, with many museums." 

"But I like California, I love its people and its beauty!" 

Such criticism can be only well taken when it comes from one i 
like this, a citizen of the world who has adopted the United | 
States as his native land, who has always exhibited his works as an J 
American artist, who gives America full credit for everything j 
he has accomplished. His greatest work, the one he personally 'I 
takes most pride in, is a statue of Abraham Lincoln as a young I 

loyet - Lorski, a self - portrait 

Adam and Eve, sandstone, will 
be included in Boston exhibit 


awyer, pleading his first case in Decatur County Court House, 
llinois. This statue, of heroic size and inspiration, now stands 
in front of the courthouse. Critics agree that Lovet-Lorski's 
Lincoln is the most Lincoln Lincoln of all. Perhaps this is be- 
cause the artist forgot himself completely in his effort to pre- 
sent Lincoln as he really was then . . a country lawyer. "In all 
works of art," he says, "the artist strives to put something of 
himself into the statue, painting, music or poem. In this case, 
I did not want to do so. Lincoln, to me, since my schoolboy 
days in Russia, has been the symbol of the best that is America, 
or the world." 

Already there is a "Lorski school" of sculptors who have imi- 
Itated his humans with wings, his dancing creatures, his great- 
chested horses, his flattened silhouetted animals, his classic 
|torsos. So versatile, he also has a flair for the tragi-comic 
as evidenced by the immortalization in pewter of "Tootsy," a 
plump poodle, and The Rooster, a copper Casanova of a cockerel. 
Lovet-Lorski was born in Lithuania (Russia) on Christmas 
[Day (Gregorian Calendar) 1895, the son of a rich White Rus- 
? j( Isiaii family. He studied at the St. Petersburg Imperial Academy 
aJof Art, specializing in painting, sculpture and architecture. He 
le|| came to the United States in 1920, began his career in sculpture 
M as a teacher, keeping one jump ahead of his students. Soon he 
ill found success and gave up teaching. During this period he be- 
aijjcame an American citizen. Europe beckoned, and he went 
i i jabroad for further work and study. 

E [ In 1929 he went to Italy, where he was commissioned to do 
|" : the heads of the royal family. Other royal commissions fol- 
fjljjlowed. He has modeled heads and busts of prime ministers, 
j| presidents, socialites, great musicians and captains of industry, 
,- !of movie moguls and sparkling stars of stage and screen. 

But it is in the field of absolute art that he has won his 
(enduring fame. John Erskine has written pages wherein he tells 
„[ how Lovet-Lorski expresses the mood of our times, even as he 
gives voice to the abstract, "a highly emotional tendency, as 
though out of a confused world his spirit reached for whatever 
is universal and serene. ... In all his work there is a provocative 
mingling of clear-sighted realism with romanticism, of thought 
with feeling. Few sculptors express so sensitive and varied love 
| of life." 

Whether he works in marble, bronze, lava, onyx, ivory, brass, 
'pewter, slate, copper, silver or wood, he is able to express him- 
[self clearly within the limitations of the material. His statues, 
torsos, heads, animals are beautiful in form and finish. Although 
he never works from models, except when doing portraits, his 
jhuman figures are wonderfully life-like, idealized rather than 
idistorted. He explains this beauty of form as both positive and 
jnegative. The figure itself must have a rhythm and movement 
that is lovely, and, framed against a background, it must divide 
Ithat space beautifully, too. There is something wonderfully 
(classic in the stark simplicity of design, the universality of 
'emotion we see here. 

Lovet-Lorski believes art is truth. He has always tried to 
j express what he sees and feels in the present, neither borrowing 
| from the past, nor projecting the future. The only truth possible 
| to a human being is that of his own period. He says that he 
I has been profoundly influenced by the Tibetan philosophy of 
life . . of time and eternity. 

"The Unknown God." a head, is one great result of his 
! search for the truth. The year 1925, the place, Paris. "I was 
i searching for the great truths about life," he says, "and granting 
that we are all descended from the one known God. the God 
Unknown must of necessity be found within ourselves." Perhaps 
this explains why the face is somewhat like the sculptor's own, 
although he says it was not intentional. This piece is now in 
the Luxembourg Museum, and replicas {Continued on next page) 

by Alice Stiffler 

Narcissia, Petite Palais, Paris, 
replica at famed San Simeon 

Rooster, red copper Casanova 

The Horses, bronze silhouettes 



Story of Boris Lovet-Lorski: Sculptor of Beauty and Fascination 

(Continued from page 59) are in several 
cities throughout the world. 

No dreamy, long-haired prattler of the 
"arty," Lovet-Lorski is a vigorous artisan, a 
competent craftsman who has given his life 
to hard work. Success and fame like this do 
not come easily. His hands have held the 
chisel and cut through stone to find expres- 
sion of his ideas. For relaxation he used to 
ride horses, and practice the art of fencing, 
working out with championship European 
teams and participating in tournaments. In 
the foyer of his home are displayed his highly 
prized foils — rapiers and face-guards. 

The house itself is another expression of 
the genius of this man. Coming to California 
on his way from Paris to an exhibit in Ha- 
waii in 1930, he first felt its charm and de- 
cided to return someday to make his home. 
He came again in 1936 and picked out his 
mountain-top. It was a little hard to persuade 
the realtor to sell it to him, inasmuch as it 
had no road, no improvements of any kind. 
But to the man who can chisel his will into 
marble or granite, the carving of a mountain- 
top into a building site was no obstacle. He 
bought the mountain. He returned in 1940 to 
rest, but resting to this active soul is ab- 
horrent, therefore he decided to build his 
house. But first he must have the plans. Re- 
member, the man is also an architect. 

Pulitzer Finali, famous Italian architect and 
designer of palatial ocean liners, exiled from 
Europe by war and politics, came to visit, 
remained to help. And so emerged the perfect 
studio-home . . the almost monastic little 
house surmounting the rugged hills. High- 
ceilinged, high-windowed rooms, smooth plas- 
ter walls provide a perfect setting for statuary, 
books and photo-murals. There is a library 
of rare Russian first editions as well as many 
books in other languages. There is an indoor 
studio and an outdoor studio . . an open 
terrace, where low tables and chairs provide 
for pleasant relaxation. The kitchen turns its 

face toward the city. The studios look toward 
the dark, chaparral-covered canyons, the ever- 
changing lights and shadows of the hills de- 
light him, soothe him, inspire him. 

If art and artists frighten you, relax. For 
Boris Lovet-Lorski says that people are all 

Here's an interesting perspective in the studio 
of artist Boris Lovet-Lorski's mountain-top house 

different and they have a right to express 
these differences in taste. "If you like a thing 
or you don't, it's perfectly all right. A person 
who is not an artist, a creator, should never 
be bothered to try to say why he likes or 
dislikes something. Only having lived, looked 
and learned the person might know the dif- 
ferent values and appreciate them." 

Personally, we can't imagine anyone dislik- 

ing Lovet-Lorski's work. But a good part of 
the American public will have the chance to 
decide for themselves this year. For Boris is 
taking not one but two complete exhibits on 
tour, starting in Boston, this month. Within a 
few weeks the second exhibition will start 
at the United Nations Club in Washington, 
D. C. This is, so far as we can tell, the first 
time any artist has undertaken a tour of this 
magnitude. The two shows, featuring mostly 
decorative pieces, are completely different, 
and the fact that they will be held simul- 
taneously means that in the space of a year 
they will cover the same territory, it would j 
take at least 32 months to do otherwise. Lovet- 
Lorski plans to end both tours in Texas some- 
time in September of 1949, and return to his J 
Beverly Hills studio. He is already planning ] 
and dreaming of further works to be accom- 
plished then. 

From Boston, the show will go to Buffalo, 
Pittsburgh, Detroit, Cleveland and then on " 
toward Dallas. The Washington exhibit will ! 
go to St. Louis, Des Moines, St. Paul, Denver 
and thence to Dallas. Other stops en route will 
be arranged later. 

Thus, the sculptor who has idealized the I 
love, the songs, and the sorrows of humanity 
in statuary that is frozen poetry, goes out to ' 
mingle with people of his adopted land. We 
predict that "Lorochka," the sculptor, the i 
horseman, the fencer, the man, will quicken ' 
the pulse of the American public to a real 
appreciation of art. 

And he will come back to his mountain- ' 
top, where in the morning it is an island i 
rising from the mist, in the evening a white- 1 
crested battlement surmounting a city swim- 
ming in golden haze, at night an aerie sus- 
pended in a sea of stars. Such an awesome i 
atmosphere is entirely appropriate to the cre- 
ator of an Ariadne, a Madonna, an Adam 
and Eve, a Diana, a Narcissia, the famous 
Cycle of Sorrow, Venus, and The Unknown 


I o commemorate Don Gaspar de Portola's dis- 
covery of San Francisco Bay in 1769, a gigantic 
festival and pageant holds sway in San Fran- 
cisco from October 2 to November 7, with 
parades, opera, football, tennis, golf and car- 
nival events to entertain the expected thousands 
of visitors who will be enjoying northern Cali- 
fornia during the months of Indian Summer. 
Here are the highlights: 

October 2-3: Portola Open Skeet Shooting Cham- 

October 2-10: U.S.L.T.A National Hard Court 
Tennis Championships 

October 6-10: Portola Open Golf Tournament 

October 10-17-24: Polo — Mexico vs California 

October 13: Opera — one act each from "Car- 
men," "Barber of Seville," and 
"Forza del Destino" 

October 15-17: N.R.A. Pacific Coast Regional 
Pistol Matches 

October 16: Football — Oklahoma A. & M. vs Uni- 
versity of San Francisco 

October 17: Arrival of famed Portola Trek from 
San Diego, Grand Parade, Sacred 
Music Concert, Solemn Pontifical 
Mass and other religious celebra- 

October 17-22: Portola Pageant 

October 23: Portola Night Parade, Grand Car- 
nival, Masked Ball, dancing, fire- 
works display 

October 24: Portola Folk Festival 

Other events of interest throughout the state: 

DOLL EXHIBIT — In San Diego October 4-9 at 
Goodwill Industries Building, displaying 2000 un- 
usual dolls. 

FARMERS FAIR— In Hemet October 6-10, home 

of Ramona Pageant, with theme of California 

ART EXHIBIT — Throughout October at Pomona 
College, featuring contemporary works of John 
Piper, Rico Lebrun, Berman, Derain, Dufy, Degas, 
Modigliani and Dali. 

COUNTY FAIR— In Ventura October 6-10. 

WINE FESTIVAL — In Delano October 7-10, fea- 
turing big parade of vineyard workers in na- 
tive costumes. 

FOOTBALL — October 16 in San Diego for 11th 
annual Shrine charity game. San Diego State 
vs Pepperdine College. 

PIONEER DAYS — October 16-17 in Twenty-Nine 

GOLD RUSH DAYS — In Mojave October 16-17 
hard-rock miners compete with crack drilling 
teams as feature of celebration. 

RODEO — In Lakeside, near San Diego, Octo- 
ber 17. 

WESTERN WEEK — In Palm Springs October 28- 
31 to include square dancing, parade and 

HALLOWE'EN FESTIVAL — In Anaheim October 30, 
with kids' parade at 2 p.m., grand parade at 7. 

TOURS TO PALOMAR — Every Wednesday and 

Sunday morning from U.S. Grant Hotel in San 

Diego. Tanner Gray Line on "Highway To The 
Stars" all-day excursion to observatory. 

NAYY DAY — Selected ships of the fleet will hold 
open house to the public October 27. 

Quilted Robe Available 
At California Stores 

lleischman's lovely quilted robe in several col- 
ors and floral print, as advertised on page 13, 
is available in sizes 14 to 20, under $25, at 
the following California stores: 

Angels Camp, Marie's; Areata, C. J. Hill; Bel- 
mont, The Band Box; Berkeley, J. F. Hink & Son; 
Brentwood, Irene's; Ceres, Florence Shop; Chico, 
T. J. Kelly Company; Colusa, J. J. O'Rourke; 
Eureka, McGaraghan's; Folsom, Polk's; Gilroy, 
The Smart Shop; King City, Freeman's, Inc.; 
Larkspur, Larkspur Dry Goods; Livermore, Fashion 
Center; Lompoc, Moore Mercantile Company, Ltd.; 
Los Angeles, Kathe Lynne Shop; Los Gatos, Nell 
Berryman; Manteca, The Toggery; Marysville, 
Carlin's; Menlo Park, Lucelle's; Millbrae, Fashion 
Bar; Oakland, Capwell, Sullivan & Furth; Palo 
Alto, The Clothes Closet; Paso Robles, Paso Robles 
Mercantile Co.; Pittsburg, Betty Byers; Porterville, 
Allen Style Shop; Rio Vista, Bird's Dress Shop; 
San Carlos, San Carlos Dress Shop; San Fran- 
cisco, City of Paris, Quality Shop and Sally's; 
Sanger, Hemphill's; San Jose, Hart's and 
Rose Lee Dress Shop; San Mateo, Levy Bros.; 
Santa Cruz, Johnson's; Santa Maria, W. A. Haslam 
Company; Solvang , Nielson & Rasmussen; 
Sonoma, G. H. Hotz; Sonora, Sanford's; Stock- 
ton, Katten & Marengo; Taft, Ladies Toggery; 
Turlock, Jewel Shop; Visalia, Wanda's Style 
Shop; Yuba City, Taylor's. 



I ima Domb's party gown in tissue taffeta, as 
i.ertised on poge 26, is available for under 
;. at the following stores: 

BlSKA: Northern Commercial Co. 

, ZONA: Bisbee, Phelps Dodge; Babbitt Bros., 
Jgstaff and Winslow; Diamond Dry Goods and 
filter King, Phoenix; Albert Steinfeld, Tucson. 

,i(ANSAS: Russellville, Hunt Walden Co. 

I TI5H COLUMBIA: Vancouver, Woodward 
!-es, Ltd. 

( JFORNIA: Chico, Arnette's; Glendale, Col 

|l ate Shop; Healdsburg, Nellie Shelf ord; In 

nwood, French Model Shop; Long Beach 

Jitter's; Los Angeles, Bullock's, May Co. 

| adway; Alhambra, Crocker's; Oakland, H 

Capwell, Goldman "s; Palo Alto, Clothes 

set; Pasadena, F. C. Nash Co.; Sacramento, 

nstock-Lubin Co.; Salinas, The Fashion 

| Vogue; San Francisco, Emporium, The 

Ite House; San Diego, Marston Co. and House 

Brides; San Luis Obispo, Christine's; Santa 

i, Malcolm's; Santa Barbara, Mitzi's; Santa 

J ilea, Rose Gold; Yuba City, Vogue Dress 


LORADO: Colorado Springs, Neufeld's; Den- 
\l Denver Dry Goods; Pueblo, Douglas Shop. 

||mNECTICUT: Hartford, G. Fox Co. 

RIDA; Orlando, Dickson & Ives. 

'. | //A 1 1 = Honolulu, Adorable Dress Shop. 

.HO: Twin Falls, Bertha Campbell; Moscow, 
[lid's; Idaho Falls, Mademoiselle Shop; 
ijitpellier, Sally Shop; Pocatello, Fargo-Wil- 

IINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field; Rockford, 

HANA: Indianapolis, L. S. Ayres Co.; Fort 
yne. Wolf & Dessauer. 

VA: Des Moines, Younkers. 

«JSAS: Wichita, Hinkel's; Topeka, Crosby Bros. 

I 1TUCKY: Louisville, Stewart Dry Goods Co. 

JISIANA: New Orleans, Holmes Co. 
j RYLAND: Baltimore, Stewart & Co. 
I5SACHUSETTS: New Bedford, Jeffrey's. 

!HIGAN: Pontiac, Arthur's,- Detroit, J. 

■JNESOTA: Minneapolis, Donaldson's; Wor- 
I igton, Gramac's. 

MISSOURI: Kansas City, Emery-BIrd-Thayer; St. 
Louis, Famous-Barr. 

MONTANA: Great Falls, Strain Bros. 

NEBRASKA: Lincoln, Miller 8. Paine. 

NEVADA: Elko, Tip Top Dress Shop; Reno 
Gray Reid, Wright. 

NEW JERSEY: Newark, Bamberger's. 

NEW YORK: New York City, McCreery's, 

B loom ingd ale's; Brooklyn, Frederick Loeser; 

Buffalo, Wm. Hengerer Co.; Jamaica, Gertz 
Dept. Store. 

OHIO: Steubenville, Reiner's; Cincinnati, Roll- 
man's; Cleveland, Halle Bros.; Dayton, Ryke 

OKLAHOMA: Oklahoma City, John Brown Co.; 
Tulsa, Brown Dunkin Co. 

OREGON: Portland, Meier & Frank; Salem, 
Sally's; Eugene, Millers'. 

PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, Bonwit Teller; 
Pittsburgh, Kaufmann's. 

RHODE ISLAND: Providence, Gladdings. 

TENNESSEE: Nashville, Loveman, Berger & 
Teifelbaum; Memphis, John Gerber's; Jackson, 

TEXAS: Dallas, Sanger Bros.; El Paso, Popular 
Dry Goods Co.; San Antonio, Joske's. 

UTAH: Salt Lake City, Auerbach's; Cedar City, 
Moderne Style Shoppe. 

WASHINGTON: Seattle, Bon Marche, Frederick 
& Nelson; Spokane, Palace Dry Goods; Tacoma, 
Rhodes Bros. 

WASHINGTON, D. C.i The Hecht Co. 

WISCONSIN: Madison, Denniston's; Ripon, Pat- 

WYOMING: Cheyenne, Fowler's. 


I know a man who thinks anything, 
Even love, can be bought with money 
But my mother didn't raise any dumb 

She only dressed them funny! 

— Dawn Flanery Parker 


This beautiful BLUE MAGIC salt shaker is 
made of crystal clear glass. This new inven- 
tion has a moisture absorbing cap which 
may be set aside during mealtime. Lasts in- 
definitely. Keeps salt dry and free flowing at 
all times. A pepper shaker to match and 
small plastic funnel included in this superb- 
y styled condiment set. An ideal hostess 
gift. Guaranteed by Good Housekeeping. 
Send for a set now. You may want more 
before damp weather arrives. 

Price 82-5 O £»' w 

SILVERMINE SPECIALTIES CO. Box 336, New Csnaan, Conn. 

It's Attractive! 
It's Practicall 
Hand-made of half- 
inch natural white 
oak, banded with 4 
brass hoops, it be- 
longs where it will be 
seen. Measuring 6"x 
4" ' , it can hold $1 1 in 
pennies, or $32.50 in 
nickels, or $150 in 
either dimes or quar- 
ters (we've tried itl) 
protected by a fool- 
proof lock and key. 
Bet you'll want onel 
$2.95 postpaid 

No C.O.D.s, please 

Witt's Country Store, New Canaan, Connecticut 

Peli-Can opener punctures a big- 
ger hole for easier pouring of 
canned liquids. It is also an ex- 
cellent bottle opener and pryer- 
offer of Jar tops . . . heavy 
enough to crack cube ice. Of 
solid aluminum with cutting 
point and edges of hardened 
steel. $1.95 postpaid. 

$27. OU , postpaid. 
Ready to mail with our 
Money-Back Guarantee 


Full of California's golden colors and years-ahead style, Riviera has 
designed the Carefree jacket for the man of your choice . . for the 
gift of the year! Exclusively patterned from the highest quality rayon 
gabardine, hand-picked collar and front, large saddle pouch pockets, 
the cleverly concealed one-button closure, and comfortable, roomy 
shoulders that permit the utmost in action . . in freedom-loving wear. 
The perfect Christmas or birthday gift . . in five beautiful colors . . 
Palm Canyon Cocoa, Pacific Navy Blue, Prospector Rust, Arrowhead 
Silver Gray, California Vintage Maroon . . in sizes to fit. 34, 36, 
38, 40, 42, 44, 46, In regular, short and long lengths. Order todayl 


1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif. 
Pleose send me the Carefree jacket: 


Palm Canyon Cocoa 

Pacific Navy Blue 

Prospector Rust 

Arrowhead Silver Gray 

California Vintage Maroon 

(Please Indicate Second Color Choice) 





(City, Zone and State) 

Money Order 


THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948 



Which Figure Is Yours? 

Do you know how to dress your particular 
figure? Do you know how to play up your 
good points, play down your figure faults? 
Dressing by Design is a famous fashion de- 
signer's notebook . . it's a coordinated col- 
lection of 10 important fashion articles that 
tell you simply, and graphically, how to dress 
to your personality . . and your figure. 

Do You Know How To Accessorize? 

Dressing by Design tells you how to achieve 
accessory balance with each outfit you wear. 
How to appear, constantly, as a well-dressed 

Do You Know How To Harmonize? 

Do you know how to select fabrics and styles 
that become you? Dressing by Design does 
these things for you . . in an easy-to-read, 
easy-to-understand booklet . . with each sub- 
ject graphically illustrated for your reference. 

• It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll 
want to keep . . for only 50 cents. It's a di- 
gested course in design for dressing that 
could cost you ever so much more. And it's a 
wonderful gift for others as well. 


Write For Your Copy Today 

Simply fill in the coupon below and mail 
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid. 

To: The Californian, 1020 S. 
Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of 


Main St., 





(City, Zone and State) 
losed is payment for □ copies. 

Al His Ideas Are Grandiose 

(Continued from page 56) lace K. Harrison 
of New York is chairman of the board of 
design, and is director of planning for the 
United Nations headquarters building in 
New York; William W. Wurster is dean of 
the school of architecture and planning at 
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Eero 
Saarinen, internationally known architect of 
Detroit; Henry Dreyfuss, famous New York 
and Pasadena industrial designer; Gordon B. 
Kaufmann, Charles 0. Matcham, William 
Pereira and Reginald D. Johnson, who are 
noted for their outstanding work in Cali- 

Over the businessmen's lunch at the Cali- 
fornia Club, Smith, Mudd, Ruddock and Win- 
nett decided it was time to do something 
about acquiring the real estate. The trick 
would be to raise the money and buy key 
parcels of land at each site before it was 
generally known t hat GLAPI needed the 
property. Smith helped to form a syndicate 
of seven firms, each of which pitched in 
§50,000. All checks were made out to Ray 
W. Smith. Ray W. Smith personally bought 
the land, after the real estate board of four, 
B. O. Miller, Clem Glass, Louis Pfau and 
Clay Saint, had recommended each purchase 
in writing. 

Smith had better luck than he expected, 
spent the 3350,000 in a hurry, eventually spent 
a million and a half. Victor Rossetti, then 
treasurer of GLAPI and still president of 
conservative Farmers and Merchants Bank, 
inveigled the Los Angeles Clearing House 
to lend $200,000 worth. $750,000 more was 
raised as a result of a luncheon meeting Ray 
arranged at the Biltmore. Smith, who loves 
to talk and who "can't wait until they call on 
him," loves to raise money. He presented the 
amended plan for the auditorium and opera 
house to more of Los Angeles' business big- 
wigs, showed slides as visual aids, and ap- 
plied the punch line with his plea for 815,000 
apiece from those attending. It was an ex- 
pensive "blue plate special." An eastern rep- 
resentative of Statler Hotels, having just 
planed in, was primed to give the first fifteen. 
Statlers new multimillion dollar hotel soon 
will be started in Los Angeles. But aging 
James G. Warren, representing the Biltmore, 
was first on his feet. P. G. Winnett came 
through with S15,000 for Bullock's and an- 
other fifteen for Bullock's-Wilshire, a com- 
panion store. Tom May had to raise his ante 
another fifteen for May Co.-Wilshire. Ray 
Smith just loves to raise money. 

"All I wanted to achieve in the initial real 
estate purchase," Smith declared, "was to es- 
tablish a comparative value on the various 
pieces of property, obtain small parcels in 
each block, and apply for condemnation pro- 
ceedings for the rest. But we were able to buy 
readily more than we expected we'd be able 
to buy. One-third of the 112 parcels in the 
auditorium area have been acquired; and a 
fair sample of the parcels in the opera house 
site. Everywhere the owners have been friend- 


A look at the real estate map in Smith's 
large, well-groomed office will show that many 
parcels in the auditorium site are owned by 
powerful Pacific Electric Railway. But Smith 
doesn't anticipate any trouble there. Mrs. J. 
Walter Schneider, widow of one of the owners 
of Robinson's Department Store, owns a 
large home on the Lafayette Park property. 
She's willing to vacate any time GLAPI gives 
the word. 

What are they planning? The auditorium 
will be the largest in the world, completely 
equipped for radio, television and the press, 
as will the opera house. Original intention 
was to build an auditorium that would seat 
30,000 for any event, but that idea was cast 
aside as unwarranted and uneconomical. 
Present plans, to have been approved in Sep- 
tember's preliminary report of the architects, 
call for an edifice that will seat from 20,000 
to 30,000, depending on the nature of the 


event. Ultimately it will be the site for 
America's largest conventions, for outstand- 
ing sporting events, for the biggest and finest 
of displays, as exhibit space is provided both 
at the streeet level adjoining the auditorium 
and underground to lead into the main hall. 
Parking space will be available for 5000 cars, 
and provisions are being made to accommodate 
a huge Veterans Building which could con- 
tain all major veterans activities in the area. 
Capacity seating for the opera house will 
be 4500, but "drop ceilings" can telescope 
the seating space to 2600 for symphonies and 
small group events. It is anticipated that the 
entire project will pay for itself in "a rea- 
sonable length of time . . say, 20 to 30 years." 

P. G. Winnett has been the financial 
wheelhorse in the operation to date, the hearty 
endorser need to lead the way to each new 
decision, in each step of the rapidly formu- 
lating plan. But Ray W. Smith is the general, 
the executive officer. Eagerness compels An- 
gelenos to watch anxiously for signs of con- 
struction, for the demolition of properties that 
cover the chosen sites. But GLAPI moves 
slowly and surely. 

"Eventually," Smith declares, "we'll develop 
our own opera company, using our own tal- 
ent. We'll always welcome the Metropolitan 
and the San Francisco Opera Companies, but 
we need one of our own, too. The success 
of the Met here last spring and the San 
Francisco opera company here every yeai 
proves this fact. In Los Angeles we have 
everything yet to do . ." 

What manner of man is this who calmly 
spends a million and a half of other people's 
money, who is first-name acquaintance to the 
town's tycoons? Ray Smith, it seems, always 
was an extrovert . . with a love for organiza-| 
tion, for civic good will. Born in Logansportf 
Indiana, he majored in political science and! 
city management at the University of Michi-I 
gan, transferred to Stanford in 1922 to fur- 
ther his study of government research. He] 
was married in 1918, the father of two chilt 
dren when he was in college, and will tell; 
you that his eldest son remembers dad's i 
graduation day. While in Palo Alto Smithf 
managed the Chamber of Commerce, thei 
Western School for Trade Organization Execul 
tives, and the Santa Clara County Consolil 
dated, which was a combine of Chambers oii 
Commerce. In 1928 he moved on to biggeil 
things in San Francisco, became manager o); 
the Community Chest, mixed with the Flei! 
shackers and the Crockers. In 1936 he becamij 
director of finance for the Golden Gate Inl 
temational Exposition. He raised the moneji 
to put on San Francisco's gigantic fair. II! 
1941 Smith came south, joined the Down). 
town Businessmen's Association, and has beei|> 
a Southern California caballero ever sinceji 
He lives in fashionable Los Feliz Hills, nov 
has three sons who totaled 12 years servicii 
in the war. He reads continually in wha 
spare time he can squeeze. 

The office of a man like Ray Smith is in.. 
dicative of his daily pursuits. On the wallil 
are pictures of "Norm" and "Walter" ancj 
"Henry" . . of a dozen of his good friend: 
and heaviest contributors. There, too, anlj 
numerous citations, for war bond drives, fron! 
civic organizations, from Stanford University: 
from luncheon clubs. In fact, you get the imi 
pression that if you gave Ray anything oi 
paper . . he'd frame it. The twinkle-eyei 
thin man likes to doodle while he's talkini 
on the phone. He's eternally active, but h'|j 
doesn't go for sports or physical exercise 

Like Robert Hutchings, he prefers to "li| 
down until that particular urge for exertioi 
passes over." 


Of The Californian to your friends is < 
pleasant, constant reminder of your thought 
fulness. Only $3.00 a year. Subscribe today 



rivateers were coming! The warning that Bouchard's pirates were 
on their way to Monterey, slumberous capital of California, struck 
terror into the hearts of the Californians in 1818. They put up a desperate 
fight when the buccaneers landed. As the plundering and burning grew in in- 
tensity, everyone fled to the south . . . with the exception of beautiful Dona Guadalupe 
Ortega, who remained praying in the Royal Chapel. She rose to her feet when Blond 

«Joe, wild giant leader of the pirates, burst into the chapel, torch in hand. His 
companion, Carney, aided by the effects of the Commandante's brandy, was certain 
that they were confronted by an angel ! Blond Joe roared, and proved it was no 
visitation by putting his torch to one of the girl's braids. She escaped into the 
night and, more furious at this violation than at the burning of the town, rode 
south to warn Rancho El Refugio. 

When the pirates arrived to plunder Ortega rancho, it was deserted . . . then 
Blond Joe himself was captured and at the mercy of the indignant Dona Guadalupe, 
who insisted that he be shot. Her temper didn't improve when Padre Ullibarri saved 
the Americano and put him to work in the mission. As time went on, the huge 

I blond captive became the prize of the missions ... his travels had taught him 
many crafts, including a bit of doctoring. Thus it was that when Dona Guadalupe 
was thrown from her horse and her broken arm knit badly, her father swallowed 
his California pride and begged El Americano to heal his daughter. The girl was 
haughty, the ex-pirate embarrass- 
ed, but he rebroke and set her 
arm. Blond Joe stayed at the 

I rancho for a bit, and when he 
prepared to leave, Guadalupe sur- 
prisingly offered her hand. Not 

! until then did Joe reveal that he 

I had carried the much-discussed 

: braid with him all this time. 
In the middle of his apology 

i was a proposal . . . and El Ameri- 
cano found himself prisoner 
again. Among the plans for a 
lavish wedding was a secret of 
Blond Joe's . . . soon the Guada- 
lupe, first ship to be built in 
Southern California, would be 
launched at San Pedro. Then, at 
last, the pirate would return to 
the sea with his treasure . . . 
but only for a honeymoon. 

a true story by alice carey 




at belter stores 

Style 483 

sizes 32 to 38 










The Grandest Tradition for the 
Grandest Feasts of the Year 


Demands Nothing Less 
than the Genuine 



Smithfield Hams are cured only in Smith- 
field, Va., from selected peanut-fed razor- 
back pigs. Their unique flavor defies com- 
parison. Truly the world's most delicious 
ham. Gift packaged. 3 sizes — (8 to 10 lbs.); 
(10 to 12 lbs.); (12 to 14 lbs.) — net baked 
wt. Price $2.00 per lb., prepaid. (50c extra 
per ham west of Miss.) Send money order 
or check with order. We try to come as 
close as possible to weight wanted, and will 
refund or bill you for difference. 


412-16 W. 33rd Street 


October, 1948 


San Francisco Celebrates Ride of Portola With Civic Festiva 

(Continued from page 45) several times; the 
coastal ranges have been timbered; hills 
have been leveled; earthquakes have shifted 
the topography, and Portola's scouts would 
certainly never recognize San Francisquito 
Creek, near the site of Stanford University, 
on which they camped. Islais Creek, on which 
other explorers camped a couple of years later, 
is now the center of San Francisco's bour- 
geoning women's wear industry. A large Ap- 
parel Center has been erected, and if the ten- 
ants find that leather jerkins of the soldados 
of Portola's party have anything to recom- 
mend them as ladies' fashions, the good Don 
may see some 18th Century costumes on 
Grant Avenue during the festival this fall. 

The story of the discovery of San Fran- 
cisco Bay really starts almost 350 years ago 
when Sebastian Vizcaino discovered Monterey 
Bay on December 28, 1602. Vizcaino, one of 
Spain's vicarious merchant-mariners, named 
the Bay for his patron, Conde de Monterey. 
For the next 160 years no steps were taken 
to settle Alta California, although the Jesuits 
managed to establish a few missions in Baja 

On February 27, 1767, Don Carlos III of 
Spain issued a decree expelling the Jesuits 
from the Spanish dominions. Portola, a cap- 
tain of dragoons, was appointed Governor of 
the Californias and sailed from Tepic with 
25 dragoons, 25 infantry and 14 Franciscan 
friars to dispossess the Jesuits and install the 
Franciscans. Two land expeditions set out 
from Velicata: One was under Don Fernando 
de Rivera y Moncado, and the other under 
Portola. They were to meet in San Diego 
and continue their march northward. Addi- 
tional supplies were sent north by sea to San 
Diego and Monterey Bay, 

Portola left May 15, 1769, (the day after 

Easter) with Father Serra, 15 soldiers under 
Sgt. Ortega, two servants, muleteers and In- 
dians . . a party of 44. The meeting was 
made with Rivera, who had left earlier, on 
June 30. It is reported that the Dieguenos 
Indians were rascally. They begged and stole 
everything they could. Portola lost most of 
his clothes and the Indians so distressed Fa- 
ther Serra that he permitted them to talk him 
out of his glasses. But the good man was so 
much at a loss that he had to make a deal 
to retrieve them. 

The march northward toward Monterey 
Bay was resumed by the combined parties on 
July 14. There were 27 soldados under 
Rivera; Ortega, Pedro Fages and six Catalan 
volunteers (all who were able to travel) ; En- 
sign Costanso, the priests Crespi and Gomez, 
seven muleteers, 15 Christian Indians and two 
servants . . 64 in all. Some of California's 
most illustrious names were on this roster, 
including Pedro Amador, for whom Amador 
County was named; Juan Bautista Alvarado; 
and Jose Raimundo Carillo, whose descend- 
ants include a well-known engineer whose 
brother is a movie actor. Jose Antonio Yorba, 
who later became the grantee of the Rancho 
Santiago de Santa Ana, was also along as 
was Jose Ignacio Oliveras and Jose Maria 
Soberanes, progenitors of distinguished fam- 
ilies. The day after Portola left, Father Serra, 
who remained behind, founded the mission 
of San Diego de Alcala, the first mission es- 
tablished in Alta California. 

The expedition followed approximately 
what afterwards became known as the El 
Camino Real, and on the fourth day arrived 
at what was to become San Juan Capistrano. 
This name was later transferred to a mis- 
sion 40 miles farther north. The party halted 
one day at what is now Los Angeles to gain 


It's tailored of Vigorized Thorobred 
Crease-resistant Gabardine 

the jacket: Club Collar . . . Large Bellows Pockets . . . 

Inserted Square Yoke . . . Gold Finished Buttons & Buckle . . . 

Smart Bishop Sleeves with Tab Cuffs 

the Skirt: Smartly Tailored . . . The New Slim Skirt. . . 

Smart Slit Front 

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colors: Black, Kelly Green, Royal Blue, Gray 

sizes: 10 to 18 Junior sizes: 9 to 17 


6402 Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood 28, California 


Betty Co-Ed of Hollywood, Dept. 289 
6402 Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood 28, California 
Please send "Town 'n' Country" Suit Dress at $11.88 
D 1 enclose payment G Mail CO. D. 

Sizes: 10 12 14 16 18 Jr. sizes: 9 11 13 15 17 

(Circle your size) 
Colors: Black Kelly Green Royal Blue Gray 

(Mark 1st and 2nd color choice) 


1. Send no money 
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2. Send payment with 
order— we pay postage 

_ Zone 


i. odd 2 1 /:* Sole* Ton) 




the indulgence of Porciuncula (August 2) . 
called the Grand Pardon of Assisi . . th< 
great indulgence of the Franciscans. This 
was originally granted to St. Francis for th< 
Church of Our Lady of the Angeles of Por 
ciuncula. The following day they came t( 
the San Fernando Valley which was giver 
the name Valle de Santa Catalina de los En 
cinos . . the Valley of St. Catherine of the 

On the last day of September Portola haltec 
near the mouth of the Salinas River, withir 
sound of the ocean. For three days Riven 
led a party south, while Portola went nortl 
in search of the elusive Monterey Bay. Thej 
found an ensenada but "where's the protectee 
bay of Monterey?" It eventually turned on 
that the ensenada Rivera found was Carme 
Bay. The march was resumed October 
and on November 6 they reached the camp 
ing site above Stanford University from when 
Ortega scouted forth and found San Fran 
cisco Bay or, as they called it, an estero. I 
was here the men were reduced to eatinf, 
acorns and any food they could talk awa; 
from the neighborhood Indians. 

Six days later they left the camping site 
and on December 10 were again back or 
Monterey Bay. Here they erected a cross al 
Pacific Grove with a description of their de 
parture for San Diego, which they reachec 
January 24, 1770. After replenishing theii 
supplies and resting for two and one-hali 
months, the party again headed north on Apri! 
17. They arrived back at Monterey Bay (al 
Punta de Pinos) May 24. On the 3rd ol 
June Portola took possession of the territorj 
and established the first presidio in Alta Cali- 
fornia, and the second mission, which was 
called San Carlos de Borromeo de Monterey 
Portola then delivered command of the new 
establishments to Lieutenant Fages and sel 
sail on his supply ship "San Antonio," which 1 
had met them in the Bay, on July 9 for San 
Bias and, as one chronicler wrote, "California 
knew him no more." 

The festival and pageant in honor of Por- ( 
tola, which is being staged October 2 tOi 
November 7 in San Francisco, was probablyi 
conceived in the thought that the good Don 
should be remembered in the rash of civic 
celebrations planned for this year and the next 
two. These are three great dates for Northern 
California and the state: 1848, 1849 and 1850 
made inspiring reading and robust, healthy 
history for the whole West Coast. 

Thirty-nine years ago San Francisco went 
all out in the celebration of Portola's ex- 
pedition. This year the committee seems more 
intent on publicity received than any pre- 
conceived ideas of historical dates involved. 

On October 2, opening day of the festival, 
Portola in 1769 was wandering around the 
mouth of the Salinas, hearing the surf of 
Monterey Bay, but unable to find it. On Octo- 
ber 17, when the 1948 Portola party is sched- 
uled to ride up Market Street in a great 
parade honoring the Catalan, Don Gaspar 
was camped at what is now Santa Cruz. 

October 25 found Portola in 1769 encamped 
on San Gregonia Creek, one-half mile south of 
Half Moon Bay, his party weary and ravaged 
by scurvy, not sure where they were and almost 
ready to turn back. Out in the western 
reaches of San Francisco today, almost within 
sound of the surf and about four miles west 
of Mission Dolores, stands the Portola House, 
a modern abode of glass and stucco with a 
touch of Spanish . . a patio. This house was 
the main prize this summer in a great draw- 
ing to publicize the festival. Recipient was 
a New Zealand sailor who at the time of the 
drawing was far at sea aboard an oil tanker. 
He probably had never heard of Gaspar de 
Portola until he received the cable notifying 
him he had won. 

His reaction was typical of a lot of things 
surrounding the Spanish adventurer: The 
sailor sold his house to the highest bidder. 


Five More Tones Than Most — The Story of Schoenberg 

{Continued from page 43) fugues. Bach has 
lone all in that art. I have often thought of a 
;ourse in practical counterpoint for arrangers," 
re muses. "There are a number of talented 
musicians among radio and movie composers, 
DUt music will never be distinguished until 
.he producers stop using their own taste as a 

Of movies in general he feels they should 
be divided into two classes, like opera and 
operetta. "You go to an opera twenty times 
and most operettas only once. In the same 
way some pictures should be made to be seen 
Dver and over, and others simply for light 

For those who are interested in this sort of 
thing, Arnold Schoenberg's work might 
roughly be divided into three periods, the 
first of which is exemplified by the now 
readily accepted Transfigured Night. This 
work, in the romantic tradition, shows the in- 
fluence of Wagner and Brahms. 

In his second period, he showed indica- 
tions of this evolution. No longer a romanticist 
completely, he was indicating the possibilities 
pf the twelve-tone scale in such works as 
Pierrot Lunaire wherein songs are spoken 
kgainst a background of a chamber music 

His third period, which includes his resi- 
lience in California, has brought to full 
growth his artistry to compose in twelve chro- 
matic tones. Although "atomic" is used these 
pays to describe practically everything in the 
world from bombs to toys, Schoenberg ac- 
tually has "atomized" music and reduced it to 
its smallest terms. To those who became rest- 
less while taking piano lessons in their lovely 
Ivouth, the seven-tone system is the one they 
[will recognize as the conventional, the one 
they learned. Schoenberg does it differently. 
He arranges the twelve tones into a pattern. 
[That pattern exists also in reverse, also up- 
side down and upside down in reverse. His 
method freed music from the restrictions of 
khe key note, making possible almost limitless 
melodies and harmonies. 

I Music written in the twelve-tone scale hor- 
jrifies those creachy listeners accustomed to 
[more recognizable compositions. Schoenberg 
says "I used to call myself a pupil of Mozart, 
which people have found ridiculous. I stem 
from him more than from Beethoven or Bach. 
This may surprise everybody . . but it is not 
a joke." 

Among Schoenberg's creations in the twelve- 
Itone department are the Violin Concerto com- 
pleted in 1936, the String Quartet Number 
\Four in the same year, and the Piano Con- 
\certo in 1943, which is one of his most im- 
portant works. 

For the Harvard Symposium on Music 
Criticism in 1947, Schoenberg composed a 
|7Y!o for Strings. He refused to go east to 
pear it, though he inquired anxiously about 
the performers. "I hope they are good," he 
Isaid. "Because this is the most difficult piece 
I have ever written. I did it without any 
consideration for the instruments. 
i His latest work is Survivor from Warsaw, in- 
spired by the heroic but futile struggle of the 
inhabitants of the Warsaw ghetto. It is to 
Ibe performed by orchestra, narrator and 
I men's chorus, and both the words and 
music are Schoenberg's own. This dramatic 
Iwork was commissioned by the Koussevitsky 
Foundation and has not yet been heard. 
Schoenberg currently is busy with several 
things, as he always is, among them an opera 
on a Biblical theme, called Moses and Aaron. 
I The first two acts were finished and scored 
I sixteen years ago with Schoenberg again writ- 
jing both music and libretto, but were laid 
aside when he fell out of the mood. The 
opera is done completely in the twelve-tone 
scale. "It is partly Biblical," explains Schoen- 
berg. "While it deals with Aaron as the 
j statesman and Moses the philosopher, it also 
j contains my own religious philosophy." He 
. is full of enthusiasm for it and most eager to 
finish it. 

Other things ahead of Schoenberg are in 

October, 1948 

the writing field. In 1911 Schoenberg wrote 
a Treatise on Harmony, which contained his 
theories on composition. His Theory of Music 
was printed in 1940. Currently, he is working 
on still another book on musical composition 
which is almost ready for the publishers. He 
plans to do five books in the next five years, 
two of them on counterpoint. In the past he 
has written extensive articles for magazines 
on musical theories, his general over-all phil- 
osophy of music, and art. One of the articles 
he presently is preparing is concerned with 
the art of caricature, which he intends to il- 
lustrate with reproductions of some of his 
own work. 

Today he doesn't take his painting as seri- 
ously as he used to. Earlier his art career 
went hand in hand with his music. "I was 
really better prepared for painting than for 
music as we had instruction in school in the 
former. In 1910 and 1911 I painted at least 
as much as I composed," admits Schoenberg. 

"I went my own way in painting. I made 
music with colors," remembers Schoenberg. 
"It is necessary to express form with the 
same purpose as one composes music. You 
cannot compete with photography. You must 
use your imagination. Nolde, the German 
painter, is a little close to me. He, too, ex- 
pressed his ideas in form and colors. Some of 
my pictures I sold. A few I gave to my 
friends. The rest," he waves, vaguely, "might 
even be here in my garage." 

The great respect due Dr. Arnold Schoen- 
berg's genius has come to him in definite hon- 
ors at various times in his life. To celebrate 
his fiftieth birthday, in 1924, his native city 
of Vienna signalized him. Although the Mayor 
delivered an address at the Vienna Town Hall, 
assisted by the State Opera Chorus, and he 
was awarded the establishment of the Arnold 
Schoenberg Bibliothek fur Moderne Musik, 
the Vienna State Academy of Music did not ap- 

point him to its teaching staff. Instead, how- 
ever, the St. Cecelia Academy of Rome con- 
ferred upon him its membership and he was 
called back to Berlin by Leo Kestenberg to 
assume a professorship at the Prussian Acad- 
emy of Arts. 

Four years ago, when he was seventy, still 
others rose up to show respect to the creator 
of what has been described by his detractors 
as "musical gibberish," and "tuneless, jittery 
rhythms." Articles in music and art publica- 
tions appeared extolling him as "widening 
the boundaries of ultra-modern music." To 
prove his defenders meant it, numerous All- 
Schoenberg programs were played throughout 
the United States. 

In 1947 the National Institute of Arts and 
Letters designated Schoenberg as the recipi- 
ent of its annual award "for an eminent for- 
eign artist, composer or writer living in Amer- 

Today his work is being heard continuous- 
ly in the United States and increasingly 
again in Europe. Recently the Los Angeles 
Evenings on the Roof devoted an entire pro- 
gram to Schoenberg's compositions; and the 
Ojai Music Festival included a Schoenberg. 

No wonder, then, this man continues to ex- 
press so great an interest in life, that each 
phase he utters is full of projects for the 
future: books, innumerable articles, all in ad- 
dition to the musical measures . . living 
examples of what he calls "the emancipation 
of dissonance." 

At seventy-four, work still fills Schoen- 
berg's life, although the doctors try to limit 
his actual music writing. Now that people 
are understanding his music more clearly, he 
is pleased. For those who can't, however, 
he has this solace: "I always attempted to 
produce something quite conventional, but I 
failed and it always, against my will, became 
something unusual." 

rtttiP * 

CREEPAS, styled by P. A. Donahue of Cali- 
fornia, made of fine mercerized cotton bobby 
socles and a l/j-inch sole of springy neoprene 
sponge, are as comfortable as can be . . . won- 
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and travel. All this and they're washable too. 
In standard bobby sox sizes 7 to 1 1, in solid 
colors. Order yours today ... $ 1 .95 pair. 


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sCREEPAS. size. 

Send me 


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Order dirwf from W.CF.DtETZ INDUSTRIES, Dept. M-1, 
323S OlrtOTYBtfy Htod, CnKumrH 8, ObJ* 

Sally Forth's beautiful crepe dress, with 
gleaming metallic collar, cuffs and pockets, 
as pictured on page 41 , is available at 
the following stores. Sizes 10 to 18, 
priced under $20. 

ARIZONA: Unique Gown Shop, Phoenix. 

CALIFORNIA: Loyce Dress Shop, Coalinga; 
Louque Dress Shop, Hollywood; Co-Ed 
Dress Shop, Huntington Park; Jordan's, 
Long Beach; May Co., Los Angeles; Rue's 
Dress Shop, Pasadena; LaVerne Dress 
Shop, Sacramento; Francine Frocks, San 
Diego; Rankin Dry Goods Co., Santa Ana; 
Wilson's, Van Nuys; Lucille's, Westwood. 

IOWA: Stearns, Des Moines. 

LOUISIANA: Johnson's Dress Shop, Shreve- 

MICHIGAN: Callighan, Ludington. 

MINNESOTA: Bruens, Duluth. 


A lovely gift set by MARY DUNHILL. 
The famous SCENTinei perfume container 
which guards the perfume in your purse, 
and a matching funnel for filling. The 
SCENTinei, a metal encased glass bottle, 
with a ground glass leakproof stopper . . . 
lets no precious drop escape . . . can't get 
out of order. Personalized with 2 or 3 initials 
engraved without charge. 

SCENTinei and Funnel: 

Cold lone metal $ 3.50 no tax 

Sterling Silver S11.40 incl lax 

Individual SCENTinei: 

Gold tone metal $ 2. SO no tax 

Sterling Silver $ 9.00 incl. tax 

Please print initials. No COD's, please 

All items postpaid and Gift Boxed. 


Dept. B Box 278 Bronxvllle, N. Y. 

MISSOURI: The Style Shop, Springfield. 

NEW MEXICO: Aldridge-Vogue, Carlsbad; 
Swinford, Gallup; Emporium, Santa Fe. 

OHIO: Keeti's, Cleveland. 

OREGON: Lorenz Dept. Store, Coquille; 
Hadley's, Eugene. 

TEXAS: Phillipson's, Dallas; Myron's, Port 
Arthur; Accessories, Ltd., and The Holly- 
wood Shop, Amarillo; The Fashion Bar, 

UTAH: Her's, Holladay; The Best Shop, 
Magna; Gloria Shop, Provo; Salt Lake Knit 
Company, Salt Lake City. 

from California 










New Customers send 10c for 
complete set of samples to 

550 A Alabama Street 

San Francisco 10, California 

Louise Salinger 
Schools of Dress Designing 

Pattern Designing. Pattern Drafting, 
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching. 
Day and Evening Classes. 

Wood & Oliver 




Atlantic 3855 

Catalogue B. 

Maiden La. &. 

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San Francisco. 


Do. 28059 


Children love to play with these minia- 
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set of ten, postage prepaid. (No 
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Buffalo, New York 

Dealers priees on request. 


if y 

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IVegal Splendor. Hand-knit type J 
sweater in White, Maize, Gray, Black I 
hand-embroidered crown and monogram 
color. Sizes 32 to 38. 

11.95 coi| 

V^ollector's Item. Miniature purse 

pact in gold-plate. Hand-engraved first 

2y 2 "x3y 2 ". 

6.95 coi 

rom the Adele Jewelry Counter 
Tete-a-Tete Ash Tray in Gold Plate with 
hand-engraved in Silver. Use it on th B 
table, nightstand, cocktail table, 2 7 /i // x1 ■ 

5.95 coil 


(Residents of California, please add -ft 
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All orders postpaid. 

flean Jdosuj <S/t&j 

251 South Beverly Drive 
Beverly Hills, Calif. 


TheyVe here at last -they won't 
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1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plate) $2. 

2. Service for 3 (Silver Plate) ». 

3. Service for 4 (Chrome Plate) 3. 

4. Service for 4 (Silver Plate) 6. 
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax. 





THE CALIFORNIAN, October, 1948 



Costume fay Claire McCardell, 39.95 

Fine merchandise deserves 

the finest. We take pride 

in announcing our beautiful 

new packaging . . from tissue 

to gift boxes . . . created especially 

for us by /&afiet4 c*t 7fCot£o*t. 

Buff urns 


Americans Finest Luxury Clothes • . 

are superbly handcrafted and custom-detailed from the finest and most colorful p 
wool fabrics the world has to offer. Designed for town, country, or travel wear Ja 
man Custom Originals are manufactured in California by America's largest produ 




custom originc 

Los Angeles 14, Califor 

Racquet Club Jackets from $70, #"omen'|| 
from $100, California Club Sport Coals jr 
Slack Suits from $60, Cardigan Jackets fr* 
Chevy Chase Jackets from $35, Jackman Sla]t 
Shirts from $27.50 each. Men's Suits of i>\ 
Scotch and British fabrics from $100. 



I N 






superbly fulfills the requirements of sub- 
tle line and drama which distinguish 
this classic suit by 


O F 


Imported by Cohama,this luxurious, im- 
peccable gabardine again asserts its 
leadership as the choice of foremost 
designers and smart women-in America 
and abroad. In the"One World"of Fash- 
ion, one name isoutstanding-Cohama. 




Wear it back . . . wear it front — the skirt with the 

bustle-back and adaptable matching stole. Designed 
by Western Fashions of Shirley's rayon gabardine in 

black, billiard green, smoke tone, castilian red, 
gingersnap. Sizes 10 to 18. Skirt and stole, 12,95* 

Mail Orders Sun-Chorm Foshionst 

THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948 

Buff urns' 


Second Floor *Phs 2' 2 % Slate Soles Tax 




Desmond's, Palm Springs • Burdine's, Miamf • Or write Adele-Califomia, Los Angeles 7, 

for information regarding your nearest store. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1941 


n order to get even more closely acquainted with 
aur readers, a questionnaire was sent to a cross- 
section of our subscribers, and 1,239 of you gra- 
ciously gave us an hour (more or less) of your time 
in replying. The answers have substantiated our 
prejudices about you, and I thought you might like 
o take a quick look at a few of the facts. 
Your median age is 33 and two-thirds of you are 
arried. As for the breadwinner in your family, 
the chances are you or he is either a professional 
person (21%), a business executive (20%), or in 
business for himself (18%). More than half of you 
lave incomes of more than $5,000 per year. It's an 
sven money bet that you went to college; but it's 
wo-to-one that you own your own home. Good 
Family people that you are, you carry $17,000 worth 
of life insurance, just about six times the national 

Whether you own it or not, you think well of your 
home: 88% of you own most of your own furni- 
ture. You prefer swimming above all other active 









Mt ■ 

Bfel^yp:^^_ i _ __J 

and ready for the ruad 
. . wherever you go this 
dramatic travel coal will 
take you in style. Three 
huge pockets placed akim- 
bo on fine suede cloth in 
skipper blue, red, kelh, 
cream white, aqua. It's hy 
Adele-California, in size* 
8-16, about $100 at Bon 
Marche, Seattle; The 
Hecht Co., Washington, 
D. C; Best & Co., New 
York. Hat by Agnes 
originals. Thompson 
Brothers map. Lipstick, 
J acquelin Cochran' s 
"Bandwagon Red." 

sports; you spend $444 on your vocation; you own 
one-and-one-half automobiles; and if you don't live 
in California, the odds are two-to-one that you 
would like to, or plan to. 

What pleases us and bolsters our sense of re- 
sponsibility toward you is that two-thirds of you 
read The CALIFORNIAN from cover to cover, ads 
and all; that half of you depend heavily upon it in 
planning your own personal wardrobes; and that 
38% of you don't read any other fashion maga- 
zine regularly. By the way, five people see your 
copy of The CALIFORNIAN, and one of these is a 

What may send you to your closet for comparison's 
sake is our peek into more than a thousand ward- 
robes. Here's what we found in the average one: 
12 dresses, 4 suits, 3 coats, 5Vz bags, 9 blouses 
and 4 swimsuits. You keep this up with an annual 
outlay of $480 for clothes for yourself ($870 for the 
whole family). Three of four of you actually shop 
and buy for your menfolk, and 78% of you make 
use of charge accounts. 



MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson 


FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 

MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf 

FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones, Alice Sliffler, 

Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Frances Anderson, Alice Carey, 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

ART Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean, 

Ann Harris, Jane Christiansen 



FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 










California fashions 

Alice in California's Wonderland 27 

For Queen of Hearts or White Queen 28 

Dreamy Drama - 30 

Gleam of Gold 32 

Black Witchery 33 

For Christmas Shine and Holiday Fun 34 

Christmas Belles 36 

The Prettiest Dresses For Children — 38 

A White Blouse... 41 

Blouse Beautiful 42 

The News Is In Print 44 

Beversible Fabric For Double Glamour 46 

Commuter's Suit 48 

Nautical Coordinates 49 

Smooth Figure-ing 50 

A Man Likes His Leather 56 

A New Angle On Skirts 58 

The Smartest Accessories For Fall 5fl 

What To Wear in California in November 60 

California features 

Review of Calif orniana, by Hazel Allen Pulling 12 

The Circus Comes To Hollywood 40 

For A Pleasing Wall Picture, by Kitte Turmell 57 

California living 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 52 

The Californian House 54 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cat; 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising managt 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-02+7; San Francisco Ofhc. 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson t 
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 We* 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year 
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years One dollar additional postage per vear outside cop 
tinental United States. 3 5c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered z> 
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, undci 
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically aauthorized. 

Go Pencil-slim 


California Sportswear 



Campus Modes' 1 gold -buckled pencil-slim skirt 

takes you everywhere, with outrageous flattery 
in every trim line. Center zipper closing is simulated in back 
Cohama Frostpoint in black, brown, airflight blue, 
forest green, bonfire and heather. 23-32, 
about $6.00 at finer shops. Classic shirt 

in Crepe Romaine 
32-40, about $6.00. 

CAMPUS MODES SPORTSWEAR • 1447 Maple Avenue, Los Angeles 15, California 

Autumn colors . . . 

give a warm new glow to 



New. muted brilliance and the crisp feel of fashion 
in Coha/na's rayon Frostpoint 
. . . woven in the spirit of fine men's ivear worsted- 
It's crush -resistant, lastingly crisp. 
At fabric counters by the yard and in ready to wear. 

COHAMA FABRICS • A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Incorporated 

•Reg. U. S. Pal. Off 

' wm 


alifornia's aristocrat presents this exquisite ensemble . . . gown 
of multifilament crepe with luxurious lace bodice, matching 
coat of crepe-back satin. At better stores everywhere. 

OF CALIFORNIA • 4 17 East Pico Boulevard 

THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948 

IXj of san francisco 

makes marvelous 
atcoats like this, always 
in luxurious fabrics, and, 
iden tally, always great 

value for the money, 
is one in heavenly 
Juilliard Lushana with 
airious velvety pile . . . 
plush red, cavalier green, 
ck . . . sizes 8 to 20 . . . 
about ninety-nine dollars 
... at better stores. 

V* ""* "of san francisco" 

ty of sophisticates and superlatives 
of longest bridges and 

suddenest hills, and fairest 
wers and smartest women. 





\c* Y3a£/X 


achieves distinction in a three 

piece ensemble of 

"Wesley Simpson's" Linami 

with a striped shantung blouse 

harmoniously dyed to match. 

Sizes 10 to 20, 

to retail about $40.00. 

southern California designs by ruth 

ken Sutherland sportswear • 315 east eighth street • los angeles, California 



STELLAR ROBES for Holiday Gifts! 

You'll want one for yourself 9 too. They're glamorously 
styled to add sparkle to your leisure. 

Illustrated is Style 325, in sizes 10 to 20. A lovely quilted screen-printed Jersey 

wraparound robe in assorted patterns and colors, with complementary lining. About 


Style 329. Same as 325 in rich, crush-resistant Velvet with contrasting lining. American 

Beauty, Fuchsia, Scarlet, Royal Blue, Copen Blue, Turquoise, Light Blue or Black. 

About $35.00. 

At better stores. See page 63 for partial list of stores, or write for name of 
your nearest store. 

S T E 1. 1, A II 

N K C L 1 G K K- INC. 



c vsuvtat*- OftMv 

November, 1948 




(left) Cashmere. Long -sleeve 
Slipon, as shown, 15.00. Short- 
sleeve, 13.00;Cardigan, 17.00. 
(right) Cable short-sleeve 
Slipon, 8.00, shown with 
Cable Cardigan, 11.00. 


Forcolor folder showing Catalina Sweaters, write Dept. 579, 
Catalina, Inc., 443 South San Pedro St., Los Angeles 13, Calil. 


by hazel alien pulling 

J\ ntidote to journalistic eulogies of Cali- 
fornia anent her centennial is Dreadful Cali- 
fornia (Bobbs-Merrill. 162p. $2.75), a much 
revised version of Hinton Helper's Land of 
Gold. First published in 1855 by a Carolinian 
who, two years later was to win fame and the 
blessings of Northerners by his bitter dis- 
avowal of the South's slave economy, this 
vituperative lashing was intended as a coun- 
terirritant to the gold rush craze. In it the 
"land of gold" was depicted through case 
studies and statistics as a land without a 
future, a haven for immoral derelicts, and a 
devourer of rainbow chasers. The book now 
becomes, in the hands of its editors, Lucius 
Beebe and Charles M. Clegg, a cleverly humor- 
ous and not so subtle invective against the 
many current rose-colored interpretations of 
California as it was a hundred years ago 
and, indirectly, against present-day Califor- 
nia's avid espousers. Illustrations by James 
Alexander add to the fun-poking character 
of the book. 


Not all gold rush Californiana published 
today, however, is ephemeral spindrift. Josia 
Royce, noted California philosopher of the 
late nineteenth century, again reappears in 
a new edition of his work, California From 
the Conquest in 1846 to the Second Vigilance 
Committee. One of the series, Western Ameri- 
cana, edited by Oscar Lewis and Robert 
Glass Cleland, this volume (Knopf, 1948. 
394p. 34) bears an introduction by the latter 
historian. The book is a jurist's view of the 
conquest, the establishment of law and order, 
and the beginnings of social and political 
life in California under American aegis . . 
and the view is not wholly roseately Ameri- 
can. Subtitled "a study of American charac- 
ter," Royce's interpretation was made from 
the viewpoint of what he felt was truth and 
justice, and, if true, it challenges America, 
as it has in turn been challenged, to re- 
survey her motives and her actions. 

For the inveterate Californian who likes 
his fare served frankly, Max Miller's The 
Town With the Funny Name will have ap- 
peal (Dutton. 221p. 32.75). This is a series 
of whimsical essays written in semi-philo- 
sophical vein about the sea town, La Jolla. 
Flora, fauna and homo sapiens who inhabit 
or frequent the beach city come under the 
author's alert field glass as he scans the area 
round about. Natives, tourists, local charac- 
ters, sea bugs and water grass interest him. 


Truly Californian is Mostly California by 
Don Blanding, whose poetry and line draw- 
ings spell California at its best. This volume 
of Californiana (Dodd Mead. 158p. 32.50) is 
more than a series of impressionistic views 
of her history and her scenery. It is a fantasy 
spun from California's sea winds, sunshine 
and shifting sands, her swaying tree-tops, 
gnarled junipers and eucalyptus and lacy pep- 
per trees. It is a glimpse into the spirit of 
California that has lived from mission days 
to the building of her latest hilltop home. 
It is a view of California not found in his- 
tory or candid books of travel; it is the 
California that all search for but only the 
few find. With the able guidance of Don 
Blanding in Mostly California, the tangible 
California becomes as apparent as the real. 

A Centennial contribution that should not 
be missed is Ed Ainsworth's California Jubilee 
(Murray and Gee. 272p. 33). A late travel 
book that is also worthy of note is Along 
Yosemite Trails by Josef Muench (Hastings. 

Editor s note: If you would like Dr. Pull- 
ing's interpretation or recommendation on fur- 
ther Californiana, please write to her in care 
of The Californian. 







13" Chop Plate 10" Dinner Plate 7Vi" Salad Plate 5" B & B Plate 

9" Nappie 

Soup Bowl 

Gravy Boat Salt & Pepper Sugar - Creamer 

Cup & Saucer Butter Dish 

All the sun colors and the charm of 
vivid California have poured from the 
potter's wheel into this beautiful Santa 
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Sturdy, practicable, colorful, Santa 
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Scan the accompanying list . . . 
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Sets are packed in rainbow assort- 
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in the items listed in the set. Prices 
are delivered to your home. Add 
2 V2 % sales tax for delivery in 



20 Piece 
for Four 

32 Piece 
for Six 

44 Piece 
for Eight 

Open Stock Items 

Dinner Plate 10" 







B & B Plate 5" 





Soup Plate .65 


Fruit Dish 





Salad Plate .75 







Gravy Boat 1 .80 







Butter Dish 1.60 






Salt & Pepper 1.00 






Coffee Mug .60 


Vegetable 9" 



Casserole 2.00 


Chop Plate 13" 



Open Stock Price 




You Save 




Special Set Price 




Please send me 

D sets 

□ sets 

□ sets 

Add 21/2% sales tax for delivery in 
California. Minimum order 20 pieces or 
$8.95. No C.O.D. orders. 



117 6 



November, 1948 



F Ro« 




"Panama Print Tropical Broadcloth' 
lends its quality to enhance this PALMDAVLshir 

from California, designed in ar 
original print from their Floral Fantasy Group 





It's a classic PALMDAYL* blouse tailored with perfect pro 
portions . . . featuring exclusive "Shoulder Pad Magic. 
In variations of Red, Brown and Green on White; sizes 30 tc 

40. To retail about $5.95 

available with long sleeves, about $6.95 





kiiokti m ike Xmakikm . . 


The smartly-styled shirts with exclusive 

"shoulder pad magic". .. shoulder pads that need not 

be removed for laundering. Give the 

gift you'd love yourself! 


')kA\j HyCJtl/^ (yitCiCtA. ...... Fresh and sweet as new mown hay, in Sanforized* 

gingham plaid cotton, pique yoke, rick-rack trimmed. Peter 

Pan collar, full three-quarter sleeves. Choice of Red, Blue, 

^T i J-ff (%?-' I or B rown combinations. Sizes 30-40. Retail about $7.95 

U t-tC-f I U 1/fCtLL (y , , . , -Happy venture in originality is this short-sleeved shirt in 

solid color rayon crepe, with accenting inserts of con- 
trasting color. Choice of Toast, Bamboo, Aqua or Gray 

(Pj^ / fry-* combinations. Sizes 30 to 40. Retail about .... $5.95 

QUAIP 0OJJlJ£/t/ An exclusive PALM DAY L design from the famous Floral 

I) Fantasy Group. Created in CALIFORNIA FABRIC COM- 
PANY'S "Panama Print Tropical Broadcloth" ... a holiday 
blouse sensation. Gold-rimmed pearl buttons and cuff links 
Choice of color combinations in Maize, Aqua, Beige and 
White. Sizes 30 to 40. Retail about $7.95 

*less than 1% shrinkage 



November, 1948 





Blue Ribbon Nominee 

for Spring 


Destined for Stardom at your store from 
now until Spring! New match-slim 
"go everywhere" skirt in Burlington 
Mill's fine UTOPIA Rayon Gabardine. 
Smart self-locking pockets . . and side slits 
for freedom. Sizes 22 tojo. GRE Y . . 
BEIGE . . AQUA . . TOAST . . 


In the Stores, about: 

Henry Donath of Preview Sportswear is the only 

California skirt designer to win the 1948 California 

Blue Ribbon Award 

"THite 2Waw" Stent S6omt &M Se 'Potutd ?4t 7^ ^oUoww? Stone*: 

Swelldom Inc Los Angeles 14, California The Vogue San Antonio, Texas 

The Fair Chicago, Illinois Sanger Bros Dallas, Texas 

Harry Coffee . . . Bakersfield and Fresno, California California Sportswear Springfield, Illinois 

South Los Angeles Street . . Los Angeles 14, California I^M^^ Cwtov 

For additional stores see page 61. 




Fashion has a how-back bustle! 

For resort and spring wear ... a sparkling 
new two-piece dress in a Foreman rayon print. 
White pique accent on collar and cuffs. 


Style #2420 — sizes 10 to 18. Gray, Toast, Navy, Black with White. 
To retail about $45. 

Of CAtlfO«UIA 

available at following stores: 

Famous Barr, St. Louis 

Roos Bros., San Francisco 

Daniels & Fisher, Denver 

Lora Pack, Miami Beach 

or write for name of store nearest you. 

"Couturier Fashions Moderately Priced" 


November, 194 


: ^ s - — -■■•■•^- 



in the Brody manner, .retail $22.95 
collection includes suede, faille, 

velvet and satin. 



%K ^J 

Lovely young curves for YOU in a 


Sold in better stores everywhere. 

November, 1948 



for gourmets only 

Fine food in an atmosphere 
of convivial friendliness! 

Where La Cienega Crosses Fourth 

CR 5-0191 
BR 2-3432 

FROM 11:30 




1 block west of 
Coldwater Canyon 


1 Block north of Wilshire 



and French 



Your Host 
Since 192a 


8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401 



STOLES FOR STYLE ... and for warmth, 
plus beauty and fashion newness, you'll adore 
these 'beautiful stoles . . . for basic daytime 
dresses or evening loveliness. Entirely hand- 
woven in 100% wool by Helen Douglas, with 
wondrous colors: red, yellow, gold, white, 
black, gray, pink, green, sage, green-blue, 
bright blue, electric blue, medium blue, sky 
blue, with nontarnishable metallic thread in- 
terwoven in gold, silver, copper, and bright 
colors. 72", $9.85 and 90" $12.35 postpaid. 
2%% sales tax in California. Sorry, no 
C. O. D.'s. Sold exclusively by The Van Buren 
Shop, 225 Calliope, Laguna Beach, Calif. 

WE'RE LOOKING OVER . . . four leaf 
clovers . . . and these are the cutest good-luck 
pieces we've seen. A precious set of two scatter- 
pins with safety-lock catches and matching 
four-leaf clover cuff links. Gold-plated with 
green leaves and pearl centers. Just $3.00 for 
the four-piece set, plus 20% luxury tax; 2 l / 2 % 
sales tax in California. Matching earrings, 
$1.00 a pair, plus taxes. At the store in your 
vicinity, or write Biltmore Accessories, 846 S. 
Broadway, Los Angeles 14, Calif. 

YOUR OWN BODYGUARD . . . scared 
of dark streets? Trust Beau Alarm! In 
purse, pocket, at bedside, it means solid se- 
curity against thugs or intruders. If trouble 
strikes, just touch the button. Instantly Beau 
Alarm's siren screams loud for over half a 
minute. Marvelous for merchants, messengers 
too. In ivory or maroon plastic, 11 ounces of 
powerful protection . . . $12.50. Just one idea 
from Gift Catalog CM-3 — free! Shipping 
charges on C.O.D.'s are collect. Write Ham- 
macher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th St., New 
York 22, New York. 

HO-GANS . . . you'll live in your Ho-Gans 
as the Indians lived in hogans. Fine trim- 
fitting "softie shoes" cut from a single piece of 
suede, giving complete freedom of foot muscles 
... so comfortable you'll forget you're wearing 
them! Tie-bow or plain, women and girls; 
plain, men and boys. Forest green, Sierra 
blue, cherry red, burgundy or sun copper. Send 
$3.95 plus 10# sales tax to Ho-Gans of Calif., 
1472 Filbert St., San Francisco. State shoe 
size, color, with or without tie-bow, and your 
nearest store will promptly fill orders. 


priceless collector's item is this record album, 
sung by the famous Boys' Choir of the Church 
of the Nativity in Bethlehem, Pa., America's 
"Christmas City." This timely three-pocket 
album of 10-inch records contains ten best- 
loved chorales from the beautiful Christmas 
Oratorio of Bach, and two old Moravian 
hymns. You'll want it for your home, and 
for your friends. Shipped anywhere in the 
U. S. for $3.95, prepaid, by Huff Music Store, 
526 Main Street, Bethlehem, Pa. 





BOOKS TO LIVE BY . . . are these timely 
two. How To Be The Smart Woman is an 
outstanding book of suggestions on cultivating 
poise, personality, charm and individuality. 
The authoress, Rebecca, combines business 
with beauty in lively readable fashion. $1.50 
each, or four for $5.50 postpaid. The Wil- 
liamsburg Calendar for Engagements and Al- 
manac for 1949 is a delightful series of 
Colonial illustrations, facts and fancies, com- 
bined into a handy appointment book. Gift- 
boxed, SI. 00 each, or six for $5.50 postpaid. 
These'll make unusual Christmas gifts. Send 
•order to Liza's Gift Shop, New Market, Va. 

SIESTA-WEAR SLIP-ONS . . . adorable 
scuffs of rich suede in wondrous colors: 
Christmas red and green, rose beige, and 
black. Or you may choose them in the smooth- 
est glove leather, softly toned in pink, powder 
blue, aqua or sunyellow. For foot comfort 
and durability, they're leather throughout. 
Slip-Ons come in sizes 4 through 9, N and M, 
at only $4.95 plus 15c postage. Add 2 l / 2 % 
sales tax in California. And prompt delivery 
for Christmas is assured by Bernadette's Shop, 
Box 372, Balboa Island, Calif. 

KLIP-ON LAMP ... a brand new, grand 
new idea. This novel lamp clips right on your 
book, where it won't interfere with turning 
of pages . . . weighing less than six ounces, 
it's engineered for correct light. For close 
work, reading in bed, use in hotels, hospitals, 
on trains, for nursery night-light, you'll find 
this the most convenient lighting yet devised. 
Modern design in ivory plastic, with an 8- 
foot cord, it's inexpensively priced at $2.00, 
postage prepaid. Send your check or money 
order to Bettina Novelties, P. O. Box 3822, 
Richmond Heights, Mo. 


most delicious candy you've tasted, made by 
Clifford Durston, for twenty-six years a fa- 
mous Los Angeles candy maker. You'll love 
the rich chocolate creams and the crisp 
crunchy nut-filled delights. This variety pack 
includes pecan nut, vanilla and rum creams; 
nougats and almond chips; and mint dips, 
toffee clusters, chewy caramels. This hand- 
dipped homemade candy is sold direct from 
Durston's, Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif., and 
is yours for just $1.50 the pound, or $2.75 
for two pounds, postage prepaid. 

Sockett's belt for Holiday wear. You'll want 
this wide suede belt with entwining all- 
around scroll design to accent skirts and 
blouses, to glamorize basic blacks and cock- 
tail dresses, for knitwear, too. This belt, to 
see you through the day and into the night, 
comes in all colors of suede with gold or 
silver leather trim and non-tarnishable gold 
or silver-plated buckle. Sizes 24 to 32, just 
$3.95. At your favorite store, or write Phil 
Sockett Mfg. Co., Est. 1925, 1240 S. Main 
St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

November, 1948 




£i.mas Utfts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

YARN DOG: This thoroughly housebroken pet, 
in yarn, gazes out at you from a blonde wooden 
frame. Dog is set in relief. Wonderful for den 
or children's room. $5.00, postpaid. 




PRETZEL ANNIE: Board-based pretzel rack, guard- 
ed over by the silliest horse you've ever seen. 
You'll love her in your bar. $3.95, postpaid. 

MING TREE: Exquisite decorate piece for your 
table or what-not shelf. Ming tree and tiny 
ceramic figurine. Gift boxed. $1.95, postpaid. 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 



No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2 J / 1 % sales tax.) 



Kmas uifts in the 
California manner 

FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a 
champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes with 
complete directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's 
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over ony 
boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid 

MILK SET: Frisky ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching 
mug comes with barnyard pictures. Pitcher and 
mug, boxed, for $3.95, postpaid. 

TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very 
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint- 
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped 
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post- 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2'/j% soles fox.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 




ENCHANT-TRESS . . . quick, easy and 
practical for round-the-clock wear. A wonder- 
ful new accessory, combination headdress and 
scarf . . . ideal for outdoor activities and 
dressy occasions. It's styled for six-way wear, 
and you'll add your own arrangements. Me- 
tallic rayon jersey, with gold in brown, green, 
black, red or white; and gray with silver; 
or in all colors of wool worsted jersey. Patent 
applied for. A charming readymade holiday 
headdress, just $3.95. At leading department 
stores everywhere, or write to California Sport- 
lets, 860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 
14, Calif. 

HANG 'EM . . . fibre plates, hand-decorated 
by the inimitable Jan. A decorative and func- 
tional way to brighten that problem wall, or 
use them for serving hors d'oeuvre and snacks. 
You'll like the gleaming protective finish . . . 
you can't tell them from your best china! 
Rose or fruit design, charmingly bordered in 
your color choice: red, yellow, gray, green 
or blue. 9" in diameter. Set of two, $2.50 post- 
paid. Same design in natural wood (without 
border), set of two, $4.50 postpaid. Mail your 
orders to The Purple Horse, County Road, 
Kingston, Mass. 

TREASURE TROVE ... a safe and beau- 
tiful jewel box. Designer William Tory created 
this to last a lifetime. Genuine leather in 
lizard grain (red, green, wine, blue, brown) 
or alligator grain (brown, navy, blue, black). 
Luxuriously lined with velvet, equipped with 
handy self-rising tray and solid brass set-in 
lock and key. It's large— 10>/ 2 "x7y 2 "x4"— 
with aluminum frame and sides for durability. 
A precious holder for jewels ... a smart ac- 
cessory for luggage ... an ideal gift. $7.95 
postpaid. Order it from Fred L. Seymour Co., 
Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

CANDLE HOLDER ... an imported China 
saucer hand-painted in beautiful floral de- 
signs combines as a tray with a fine brass 
fixture into this most unusual, yet practical 
candlestick holder. You'll find it useful as 
combination cigarette holder and ash tray, 
too. The 5V2" saucer is hand-painted to your 
order in rose, wild rose, violet or daisy de- 
signs with pastel backgrounds of yellow, blue, 
green or pink. A welcome gift at $7.95, plus 
35c postage. (A list of other hand-painted 
items sent upon request). Web China Studio, 
2707 Boardwalk, Atlantic City, N. J. 

RECIPE FRAKTURS . . . you'll want to 
brighten your kitchen or dining room walls 
with these cheerful Pennsylvania Dutch Recipe 
Frakturs. Decorative and practical with de- 
licious easy-to-follow recipes, this portfolio 
of eight gaily colored sheets combines au- 
thentic Pennsylvania Dutch artistry with novel 
recipes — shoo-fly pie, apple strudel, and 
schnitz un knepp are included — from the ! 
best Dutch cooks. Each sheet is sized ap- 
proximately ll"xl6". An unusual and dis- 
tinctive gift for the lovers of American heritage 
everywhere. Send $3.00, check or money or- 
der, postage prepaid, to Adele H. Hershey, 
R. F. D. 3, Hamburg, Pa. 



BABY BUCKSKINS . . . these shoes for 
the wee ones are the most adorable we've 
seen. Original in design, they're entirely hand- 
made of soft durable Fawn-Tan Buckskin, 
stitched with sturdy linen thread . . . styled 
for comfort and freedom. Pediatricians ap- 
prove — and the flexible sole aids first walkers. 
Sizes 1 (6-9 mos.), 2 (9 mos.-l yr.), 3 (1-2 
yrs.), 4 (2-3 yrs.). A precious gift at just 
$2.95 postpaid, plus 7c tax in California. 
Send check or money order along with baby's 
I size to The Little Leather Shop, Box 1168, 
Carmel-by-the-Sea, Calif. 

POUBS LIKE A BOTTLE ... the perfect 
gift for him. Watch his f: 5 light up when 
he discovers it's the smartest, easiest-to-use 
cocktail shaker at any price; plus "doubling 
in brass" as a bottle protector (will hold a 
standard shape liquor bottle when traveling). 
100% stainless steel — shaped like a bottle — 
pours like a bottle — breaks open at shoulder 
for convenient uses — has removable strainer, 
and the cap is a jigger. Deluxe model avail- 
able, $10.00 postpaid, Southern Comfort Corp., 
2121 Olive St., St. Louis 3, Missouri. 

JEWELED CLOX . . . Willys of Hollywood 
presents exquisite hosiery designed for the 
cocktail hour and evening wear. Featuring 
rhinestone jewels, seed pearls or beaded 
clocks on the outside of each stocking ... 15 
or 20 denier Dupont nylon . . . with or with- 
out seams. Sheer splendor, in exciting shades: 
smokecloud, autumn brown, bronze tone, gun- 
metal, navy, black, greeen envy, Bermudana, 
negrita. Sizes 8 to 11, made to order. S7.95 a 
pair, at May Company Wilshire, Los Angeles: 
B. Altman, New York; Carson, Pirie, Scott, 
Chicago. Or write Willys of Hollvwood. 1141 
N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif. 

j COOK ON THE PIANO ... the luxurious 
| all-electric stainless steel Barbecue Rotis- 
i serie eliminates uncertainty, smoke and dirt 
of the conventional barbecue. Yet Rotisserie- 
cooked meats taste better, the flavor is sealed 
in, the juice retained. Try your turkeys, 
I roasts, steaks the Barbecue Rotisserie way. 
So clean and easy to use that you can ac- 
tually "cook it on the piano" . . . you'll love 
it for indoors and outdoors. Custom built, 
fully guaranteed. S194.25, including taxes, 
shipped via express collect. Write for booklet. 
Gourmet, 355 Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 

HOLLYHAVEN HOLLY . . . world's most 
luxurious are these deep green wax-like leaves, 
loaded with ruby-red berries. Selected from 
the finest English Holly trees, a wealth of 
sprays in all sizes are moisture-packed to 
arrive tree-fresh. Beautifully styled packages 
(enclosing the original Holly-haven styling 
folder) come in two sizes: Friendship Box. 
$4; Deluxe Bushel Box (shown) $10. Send 
check or money order for postpaid delivery 
anywhere in the U. S. These are most ap- 
preciated gifts. Place your order now, or 
send for literature to George Weber of Hollv- 
haven, Dept. H, P. O. Box 176, Seattle 11, 

November, 1948 



something new 
in footwear 


;CoLto n 

-)j t C<- "o,, 



So light, you walk 
on a cloud . . . and 
so flattering, you want to wear it with 
all your costumes. Choice of suede or 
calf, in fall shades you'll love. Sizes 
3 to 10 in all widths. To retail about 

Write us for nearest store 

H^ic (LoitorL- SHOE fflPG.- 

3665 Whitlier Boulevard • Los Angeles 23, Calif. 


lazing New San Fernando Valley 
• 0? 


Luxurioub, sort suede cunningly hand-laced with snow- 
white real leather to upper of genuine unborn calf- 
skin which retains nature's colors and the silken hair. 
For rugged street or sports wear! Harold's of Holly- 
wood's renowned styling! Amazing value! You'd say 
$8,501 BUT— direct by mail— only $+.98! Your 
choice of the season's preferred colors: GREEN, RED, 
GRAY, BROWN. Sizes 3^ to 10. State 2nd choice 

Fit Guaranteed! Money Back Guarantee! 

Order By Mall Now from Hollywood 

Box 611, West Branch, Hollywood 46, Calif. 
Rush me my lovable "Ponies." 

Size 1st Choice Color 2nd Choice 

I will pay postman $4.98, plus postage and 
C.O.D. charges. 








WITH the golden fruits of California, 
with the delicacies that are available 
in your own home town! Helen Evans 
Brown's famous cook book, California 
Cooks, contains more than 100 unusual 
California recipes . . menus galore! 

Write for Your Copy Today! 

COOKING for your family and friends 
is easy . . and fun . . when you have 
such wonderful, unusual recipes. CALI- 
FORNIA COOKS is a treasure to keep 
in your kitchen . . it suggests the 
proper menu, the exciting dish . . at 
just the right time. It's a practical and 
appreciated gift. 

AND California Cooks comes to you, 
postpaid, for only 50 cents! 

Write for Your Copy Today! 

JUST SEND 50 cents for each copy, 
your name and address to 


1020 So. Main Street, Los Angeles 15. 

Enclose money — Harold's 'will pay all postage jj 



fect companion for little boys and girls . . . 
grown-ups like this adorable horse, too, for 
den, bar and bedroom . . . the grandest 
Christmas present possible. 14" long, 10%" 
tall, of the finest quality suede, with brilliant 
grained eyes. The insides are soft cotton — 
no wires or hard pieces to harm the little 
ones. Whiskbroom brushing keeps him clean. 
In tan suede with bright trimmings, Suede- 
biscuit is $5.00, postage prepaid. Add 2 l / 2 % 
sales tax for Californians, and order from 
Suedecraft Novelties, Dept. VS, Box #7158. 
Los Angeles 37, Calif. 


the kiddies will love their grub when it's 
served in this three-piece cowboy set . . . 
there's a 9" plate, 5%" cereal bowl, and cup. 
Events of a Western rodeo are colorfully de- 
picted, with designs by Tillman Goodan, 
famous cowboy artist. This ware is as sturdy 
as the characters it portrays, being done on 
heavy vitrified china with designs fired under 
glaze. Saddle tan background with brown 
colors. Attractively gift-boxed, $4.95, express 
charges collect. Sorry, no C. O. D.'s. Totman's, 
12 N. Main St., Sheridan, Wyo. 

UNIQUE ... a special edition of your [I 
caricature, cleverly drawn and beautifully 
engraved as the back design on the finest Cel- 
U-Tone playing cards in a suede box. These • 
charming Caricards are deftly drawn by lead- 
ing American artists from your photo (at I 
your hobby if desired ) . . . distinctive for : 
entertaining, a delightful gift. 2 deck set li> 
$11.60; 4 for $17; 6 for $21; or 12 for $28. 
If desired, your favorite photo (any size) 
reproduced as back design — deduct $3. All I 
photos returned. Send check or money order 
to Robinson-Sherman Playing Cards, Grand I 
Central Sta. Box 169, Dept. C, New York 17, 
New York. 

VALET RACK ... to keep his clothes in 
apple-pie order. This useful rack holds his 
suit, tie, shirt, underwear, socks and shoes in 
perfect readiness . . . bachelor, husband, 
father, brother or beau will love this handy 
Valet Rack. Mahogany, walnut, maple or 
blond finish. $11.95, express collect (weight, 
10 lbs.). Lewis & Conger, Avenue of Americas 
at 45th St., New York 19, New York. Their I 
illustrated Christmas Catalog, by the way, 
has hundreds of good gift ideas. Ask for 
Catalog CA 11; it's free. 

SPATTER SHIELD . . . here's a wonderful 
innovation for cooking pleasure. An enter- 
prising housewife designed this Spatter Shield 
to keep her stove and walls clean by shielding 
them from cooking grease and spatters. Now 
it's available to all of us. A "kitchen must" 
to enjoy spotless kitchens and yet fry chicken, 
steaks, chops and fish crisply in the open 
... it fits neatly around sides and back of 
any skillet, folds into a small flat package 
for easy storage. A real buy at $1.00 post- 
paid. Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Bev- 
erly Hills, Calif. 



I— «WJ1 


BUY OF THE YEAR ... is this low- 
priced luxurious hat and bag set — both Calve 
originals — of rich imported suede. The beret 
is smartly styled for many-way wear, and the 
huge "Feed Bag" is taffeta lined and 12" 
deep. A beautiful suede set to accessorize 
your suits and coats, in red, brown, gray, yel- 
low, cinnamon, green, coffee black or royal 
blue. Beret sizes 21-2114-22-22^-23. Just $16.50 
for both beret and bag, including excise, plus 
25c for mailing. (214% sales tax for Califor- 
nians). Send your color choice and hat size 
with check or money order to Calve, 655 S. 
Shatto PI., Los Angeles 5, Calif. 

SEE BETTER. . . says this gift. With this 

beautiful new type of magnifying glass, you 
lean give friends "seeing comfort" for years to 

come . . . you can read newspaper print a 
I column at a time, for the 3 x /4" lens provides 
I a large, sharp field of vision. Longview magni- 
Ifies 2 l / 2 times, folds into a handsome plastic 

handle. You'll be proud to give, or own, a 
J Longview. Packed in a gift box, $6.50 postpaid. 

If not completely satisfied after 10-day trial, 

money will be refunded. Edroy Products Co., 
iDept. A, 480 Lexington Ave., New York 17, 

New York. 

CHAMISMOOTH ... the set your man will 
love. After-shave lotion and cologne of excep- 
tional quality, with a scent to appeal to the 
masculine and feminine tastes. Trimmed with 
bright suede pom poms, these patented bot- 
tles are of fine porcelain china. You'll want to 
I utilize them as beautiful bud vases, or filled 
with sand as bookends and paperweights. This 
exquisite Chamismooth set is $10 including 
all taxes and postage. Order it from Chami- 
smooth Products, Dept. AC, Box 7158, Los 
Angeles 37, Calif. 

SU-Z BABY GIRDLE . . . smoothest fit 
ting, most comfy panty-girdle ever designed. 
Power-net nylon with nylon thread through- 
1 out, it fits by weight any gal from 95 pounds 
I to 150. Advantages include: fast drying (4 
< hours) ; all elastic nylon garters detach for 
1 wear with shorts; special fitting can't roll or 
, slide. To smooth hips and thighs, keep tummy 
i controlled, order Baby Girdle ... it fits 
1 like second skin, stays c-o-o-1. Step-in or pantie 
style. (Photoed by Lee Angle). Send meas- 
urements of your waist, tummy, thigh and 
overall weight to Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon, Los 
Angeles 43. In white, postpaid, just $10.95. 

DOG LEASH BELT . . . California's in 
terpretation of the popular Dog Leash Belt 
is this clever one with a Yo-Yo that's in non- 
tarnishable gold . . . and it really works! 
Another famous Film Star Creation is this 
adjustable suede belt, sturdy enough for wear 
on coats, wonderful for accent on skirts and 
dresses. In your choice of black, brown, red 
or green, sizes 24 to 36, priced at $2.95. Please 
add 2!/2% sales tax in California, and send 
your order to Hale's Grant Avenue, Acces- 
sories, 125 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, Calif. 

November, 1948 


Twelve Times a Year! 

This beautiful card 
goes with each new 
Calif ornian 

Bells ring ! Birds sing 
. . in the hearts of your 
friends when they re- 
ceive the colorful Cali- 
fornian Magazine. The 
perfect gift . . an inex- 
pensive one . . that re- 
members you every 
month during the 
whole new year ! 

It's smart to give a gift subscription to The Califor- 
nian Magazine. The smartest people do. And our 
artists have designed this beautiful California Christ- 
mas card to go in separate envelope to each recipi- 
ent you designate. Your subscription, new or re- 
newal, is only S3 a year. And for your friends you 
may send each one The Californian for only $2 . . 
complete with the handsome gift card. It"- a bar- 
gain in good taste and new interest in the California 
Way of Life. The latest fashions from California's 
top designers, the most exiting features about Cali- 
fornia, the most intriguing of California's beautiful 
homes, the choicest recipes from a galaxy of Cali- 
fornia chefs. Fill out the Special Christmas Gift 
Order attached to this magazine, or tell us your 
Christmas wishes below. 

Remember ! One year subscription $3.00 ; each 
additional subscription S2.00; (add S1.00 for Can- 
ada and foreign postage) . 

Please send THE CALIFORNIAN with special 
Christmas greeting card announcing the gift 
subscription to: 








one ye 
D for 

City Zone 

enter my own subscri 
ar. Payment enclosed 
all special Christmas 


[Minn order 
□ or send 
gift orders 












<4 / ___ j 

''■ : ' '■ ' inK 



\^ x 



This bronze shieW is proudly 
displayed by more than 4000 
fine jewelers, coast to coast 

In gold-filled cases, $39.75 fo $59.50 

With bracelets, slightly higher 
In taxes of 14K gold, $59.50 to $71.50 

Diamond Princess Watches, $71.50 
Illustrated: A. Golden Princess, $59.50 
0. Wendell, $39.75 Prices inc. Fed. Tax 



,'>//y/w//w//vW/'/S/ w* vi 

A hundred and one superiorities of construction and 
finish distinguish Wittnauer watch movements. Wittnauer 
watch cases are of the finest quality and manufacture— 
equal in every respect to those used in the highest 
priced watches. Longines -Wittnauer has applied the 
skill and experience of 82 years of fine craftsmanship 
to make Wittnauer, in its class, the world's best watch. 

Listen to the Wittnauer "Festival of Song" every Sunday, C. B. S. Network, 2-2:30 P. M., E. S. T. 


«* •»#*'* 


Alice in 

California's Wonderland 

. . . let's pretend, with childhood's beloved char- 
acter, that we're in Looking Glass room ( reason 
enough to remind you again that the mirror is 
your only infallible guide to good fashion, re- 
flection of your own good taste). Here is a 
wonderland of dream gowns and fancies for 
holiday wearing, and giving. Here's talk of 
cabbages and kings . . . here's fantasy and en- 
chantment that belongs to the Christmas season. 


LINGERIE, WONDERFUL to give, to have . . . below, left, Swiss-embroidered peignoir and gown 
of crepe-back satin, by Fia. About $60 at Carson's, Chicago; Harzfeld's, Kansas City. 
Below, right, Talia's empire gown of satin, matching sheer negligee, about $39.95. 
Opposite page, Juel Park's nylon chiffon and crepe confection, custom-made. 


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DREAMY DRAMA . . . these are the looking-glass perfections you can 
give with pride: above, warm cutaway coat with slim jim trousers of faille: 
Hollywood Premiere, about $25 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles ; City of 
Paris, San Francisco. Left, quaintly sweet peignoir over multi-filament 
crepe gown, by Pandora. About $23 the set. Opposite page, Addie Master's 
delectable Sanchilla crepe lounge pajamas, cut full as a skirt, with subtle 
combination of colors. About $45 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; 
Carson's, Chicago ; Filene's, Boston. 

.*>■' ■ 

GLEAM OF GOLD accents holiday mood in Celanese jersey hostess gown: Remle of California. 
In black or colors. In sizes 10 to 20 about $30 at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; 
The Bon Marche, Seattle; and Myer Siegel, Los Angeles. 


BLACK WITCHERY of Alencon-type lace yoke on triple-sheer 
Dream-Glo fabric. Lady Helen of California. About $15 at 
Buffums', Long Beach ; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Halle Bros., Cleveland ; 
J. L. Hudson, Detroit. 



For Christmas Shine 
and Holiday Fun 

IRIDESCENT taffeta is your bright idea for 
the holiday whirl : Emma Domb's romantic 
dance frock with tiers of ruffles and an elegant 
bustle bow, sizes 10 to 16, about $40 at The 
Emporium, San Francisco ; Hecht Co., Wash- 
ington, D. C. ; Halle Bros, Cleveland. 

YOU'LL NEED all your glamour for 


social season ahead ! For important occasions, 
Louella Ballerino's evening suit in gleaming 
satin, left ... or, below, Marbert's figure-mold- 
ing crepe gown with sparkle of sequins in front. 

hKANK => I Ifl-Lth 

• CHRISTMAS BELLE : Peggy Hunt's lace gown with 
gold sparkles, about $110 at L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis. 

HOLIDAY WHIRL: Max Kopp's taffeta dress, above, 
about $30 at May Co., Los Angeles; Jack Rose, Santa 

GALA GOWN: Robert Gould's slipper satin, right, 
about $35 at City of Paris, San Francisco; Halle Bros., 
Cleveland ; Meier & Frank, Portland. -^- 



PRETTIEST DRESSES for party fun at Christmas, 

above, Picture Modes taffeta 'n net, with a huge bow 

and bouquet of flowers for "back interest" ; 

left above, plaid taffeta with velveteen bodice 

from Little & Martin . . . and just to the left, 

velveteen pinafore with crisp little blouse : Juniors, Inc. 


Jean Durain. who inspires love letters from the youngest 
set. ties up a holiday offering in Christmas red. Left, navy dotted Swiss and organdy 
pinafore, sizes 1-3. retails at S8.95; 3-6, $9.95; 7-10, $10.95. Alice-in-Wonderland 
frock of navy blue cotton with detachable broadcloth apron, $9.95, $10.95 and 
$11.95. Bottom, white only, broadcloth pinafore, sizes 1-6. $5.95; 7-10. $6.95. 





Danny Kaye, 

Rosalind Russell, 

John Farrell and 

Louella Parsons 









Edgar Bergen 


and Columnist, 
Harrv Crocker. 





the medicine man 

Bob Hope, 

a man's man 

for wrestler 

'Gorgeous George" 

Hollywood has a heart . . you could hear its exciting 
tempo from coast to coast when a hundred or more of the 
brightest stars helped Ringling Bros.-Barnum & Bailey 
present the "greatest show on earth" to benefit St. John's 
Hospital in Santa Monica. More Hollywood luminaries 
and Southern California society bought $100 seats, con- 
tributed $175,000 toward a projected new hospital wing. 
Cheering thousands saw Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra 
as clowns, Greer Garson, Virginia Mayo and Margaret 
O'Brien ride elephants, Ronald Reagan, Robert Preston. 
Edgar Bergen and Keenan Wynn as barkers, and a gigan- 
tic pageant with Irene Dunne, Virginia Bruce, Lucille 

Ball, Ray Milland, Alan Ladd, Betty Grable, Robert Cum- 
mings and a dozen more. Bob Hope and Burt Lancaster 
were teamed with wrestler "Gorgeous George;" Danny 
Kaye was an acrobat, Kay Kyser was ringleader, Barbara 
Stanwyck and Claudette Colbert were side saddle eques- 
trians; Gregory Peck, Gary Cooper and Van Johnson 
were almost unrecognizable as clowns. Even "Lassie" 
was there. Starlets and models sold peanuts and pro- 
grams. Wardrobe women, electricians, stagehands had 
volunteered their help. 

It was a night to remember . . when the last elephant 
had tromped away. 



A WHITE BLOUSE, PLEASE . . . you'll want at least one pure white blouse with its inimitable flattery, 

its go-with-anything air! Palmdayl has two new ideas for Christmas giving (or year-round wearing) : 

Left, "Dandy", about $11; right, "Showboat", about $10... each with brocaded broadcloth. For stores, see page 60. 




GRAFF, about $4 each 





f .'•' -1 





the news is in 


Now it's time for prints ... to wear 

under furs, to brighten your holi- 

day, to hurry the spring! Marbert 

originals, left to right, shirred Co- 

hama rayon crepe, under $40. Cas- 

ual shirtmaker, Robaix print, about 

$35. Dress-and-jacket wardrobe 

"must", about $50. Parade of pol- 

ka dots, California Fabric, under 

$30. All at Best's Apparel, Inc., 

Seattle ; Roos Bros., San Francisco ; 

J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles. 

» • • • * • 

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^...''♦♦•••••'••••♦•.V .:•*'; 

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construction of 
skirt & under-skirt 

(of skirt) 

your own waist 


Gather skirt 
bottom Into 
slip and finish 
with seam-blndin{ 

Slip waist* band 
with draw-string 

(on drawstring) 
dropped to, 
hip position; 

Evening Length 



Holiday hints to brighten your wardrobe, 

by Alary Wills, Samuel Goldwyn studio designer 

Opposite page, Ferney's metallic faille, 

bright color flashing through from 

reverse side : 40" wide, $2.65 per yard. 

Pocket or belt can be beaded or touched 

with sequins. Inset, simply-wonderful 

skirt, easily made: shirr length of 

fabric on shorter underskirt which 

may be tied at waist or hips to 

regulate length! This page, bows, 

collars, weskits, bibs, evening 

coat, cape; Ferney's reversible 

taffeta, 40" wide, $4.95 per yard 

. . . use dot or striped side! 

Glamour hints from the studio, 

for you or your dressmaker to try! 

/ ***• - MM 

" ill 

COMMUTER'S SUIT . . . experienced traveler's choice for steamer or yacht, 

or for early resort wear . . . and perfect summer standby later. Bright color 

contrasts with winter white, beige or gray Reltex fabric, sizes 9-17, 10-18. 

Mix matchable colors, from Miss Hollywood Jr., about $25. For stores, please see page 64. 



NAUTICAL COORDINATES . . . wonderful play-mates in kelly, cinnamon, white or red 

butcher linen, a Brighton fabric. From Monroe Lloyd's luxury liner collection 

by Waldo. Sizes 9-15, 10-16. Midriff, about $5; kneelers, about $8; 

sailor-maid middy and skirt, about $23 ; shorts, about $5. For stores, page 64. 



■^- Fashioned to please 
the stars, and lithe young 
Californians . . these bras 
and girdles help you cut a 
pretty figure! Sho-Form's 
stitched strapless bra, 
with Damsel of Holly- 
wood's leno-satin paneled 
girdle, left. Center, up- 
lift bra, Cordelia of Hol- 
lywood. Tre-Zur's new 
adventure bra, plastic 
shelf removable for laun- 
dering, bcloiu. Long line 
bra, this page above ^ 
right, by Anne Alt. Cen- 
ter, power lace girdle, 
detachable crotch, Beverly 
Vogue. Lower right, satin 
bra, center zipper, power 
lace girdle, Sidley Co. 
Loicer left, evening bra 
by Helene of Hollywood. 




JE %^/ dusting off our Christ- 

mas Spirit and remem- 
bering the promise we 
made to ourselves last 
year . . the promise that this year we 
would positively get things done early 
so that, come December 24, we'd have 
strength enough to drink a toast to 
Santa Claus. So we go about it. We 
either call a personal shopping service 
and have them do the job (How im- 
personal can we be?), or we buck the crowds and 
find just the right gift for everyone at a price we 
can afford, or we get smart and make our own 
gifts of food . . custom-made gifts to delight each 
and every palate on your list. If visions of sugar 
plums now dance through your head, you're not 
seeing the same things I see. And I don't see glaceed 

lovely Christmas packages can be the product of your ingem 

tainer doesn't boast a cover of its own, give it 
of aluminum foil or parchment paper, tied d< 
tight, or cover it with paraffin and colored c< 

California Walnut Cheese 

Grate two pounds of a rich well-aged Chec tj 
cheese and mix it with half-pound of butter , 
a teaspoon of prepared mustard. When smi 
and creamy (use the electric mixer if you 1 
one), mix in a cup of finely chopped wall 
Pack tightly in the chosen containers. 

Herb Cheese 

Mix two pounds of grated New York or T 
consin Cheddar with a half pound of butte 
cup of cream, a cup and a half of Sherry, a 
spoon of salt and a quarter-cup of chopped f 
tarragon, chives, parsley and thyme. (This is 
viously for those of you who grow your 



fruits. They are tricky to make but easy to buy . . 
particularly in California around Christmas time. 
I don't see fruit cakes, either. Nearly everyone can 
make them and nearly everyone does. What I do 
see is an array of fascinating and exciting comes- 
tibles, foods that only you would think of making. 
Pots of exquisitely flavored cheese for the old 
dear who has everything; a jar of chutney for the 
gal who dotes on curries ; gaily decorated Christmas 
tree cookies for the many children on your list; 
herb vinegars for the man who fancies himself a 

Let's start with cheese mixtures. They're easy 
and inexpensive to make and they may be packed 
in dozens of amusing ways. Get busy with a pan 
of bright paint or some red nail polish and do up 
the tops of discarded cold cream jars . . or any 
other screw-top jars for that matter. Or use in- 
expensive Mexican pcttery bowls, with or without 
covers, or small refrigerator dishes, or Chinese 
tea cups, or individual oven-proof glassware. 
There's no end to packaging ideas. Use a cup and 
saucer, a beer mug, an antique toothpick holder, 
a flower vase from the five-and-dime. If the con- 





herbs). Cook in a double boiler, very slolf 
and stirring constantly. When the cheese is cren; 
and smooth, it's ready to put in containers. 

Cheddar Cheese With Rum 

Mix three pounds of old Cheddar cheese 
a half-pound of butter and a half-cup of Jan 
rum (or Sherry). Cream well before packir 

Bleu Cheese With Brandy 

Mix three pounds of rich bleu cheese wit| 
half-pound of butter and a half-cup of Port, 
until completely blended before packing. 

Herb vinegars, so expensive in the stores, 
be made at home. And you don't need an 
garden for these . . dried herbs may be iS 
dried herbs which are less expensive if purchieoi 
in bulk from Italian or Mexican markets, ./feo.ft 
vinegars, even wine vinegars, are not costl if 
bought by the gallon. Here again you can Kp 
fun with the containers. Bottle caps can be pai:ed 
or you can use inexpensive decanters or era* 
Or buy chemists' flasks, wind the necks with ria. 
and stopper with corks that have been tojM' 
with blobs of sealing wax. 

deliciously flavored cheeses and herb vinegars make exciting j is 

th these recipes Christmas !§ivinj| is simplified . . personal 

msalito Herb Vinegar 

;at a gallon of vinegar as above. Pour it over 
e ounce each of tarragon and parsley, and a 
lf-ounce each of mint and thyme. Ripen and 
ttle as above. 

idi Salad Vinegar 

se red wine vinegar for this . . a gallon of it 
th two ounces of mint, three ounces of tarragon, 
ght whole cloves, four crushed bay leaves, a 
>zen cloves of garlic, and two hot red peppers 

the little ones. Allow to stand four days before 
raining and bottling. 

Chutney is definitely in the luxury class when 
s bought at fancy food emporiums. The best 
nd comes from India and is made from exotic 
uits like mangoes, tamarinds, and such. That's 
hy it's cheering to know that very delicious 
rutney can be made right here in California from 
:ars and apples. This first recipe calls for green 
inger, which is easy enough for anyone who lives 
ear a Chinatown, but if that's out you can still 
ake a chutney . . from the second recipe using 
owdered ginger. 

'rivate Brown's Chutney 

ook together a quart of cider vinegar, two and a 

Tt alf cups of granulated sugar, a half-pound of 

;edless raisins, six pounds of peeled and quar- 

:red green apples, a quarter-pound of garlic, 

Jeeled and cut in minute splinters, a pound of 
reen ginger which has been blanched, peeled, and 
ut in slivers, six red chili peppers which have 
1 een peeled and also cut into tiny slivers (To peel : 
old them over a flame to blister, then wrap in 
iaper for ten minutes to sweat, and then scrape 
ff the thin tough outer skin), one tablespoon of 
/hole mustard seed, one-half to one teaspoon of 
jayenne (like it hot?), and two tablespoons of 
alt. Watch this while it simmers slowly, stirring 
iften. When the apples have cooked to a trans- 
ient mush, and the ginger is tender, add the 
•ears, six pounds of them. They must be just as 
lard and green as you can find, and they must be 
>eeled and cut into long thin strips, in imitation 
if the pieces of mango in the importation. Cook 
until the pears are transparent, but not a minute 
. longer. The pears, in pinch hitting for the mangoes, 
must remain whole, for they give the proper con- 
sistency to the chutney . . it is the other ingredi- 
mts that give that characteristic flavor. 

and real 

Apple Chutney 

This chutney is quite different from the one 
above because the ingredients are chopped . . it's 
really almost a chutney catsup. Peel eight pounds 
of green apples and two pounds of onions and 
chop them fine. Add a pound of seeded raisins 
that have been put through the food chopper, 
four cups of cider vinegar, two cups of brown 
sugar, six tablespoons of ground ginger, two ta- 
blespoons of minced garlic, a half-cup of salt, 
and some cayenne . . the dash to suit your palate. 
Boil this slowly and carefully until it's soft. Pour 
into sterilized jars and seal. 

If you want to give more than a jar of chutney 
as a gift, why not make up a little gift package 
for the curry lover? A jar of curry powder, a pack- 
age of converted rice, the chutney, some nuts 
to serve as a condiment . . even some Bombay 
duck or dried shrimps or toasted cocoanut. Do it 
all up in a piece of India print or in a cotton 
with a Javanese-looking design, or pack it in an 
inexpensive basket. 

The next recipe is actually a pickled onion, 
but don't let that stop you . . it's like nothing you 
ever tasted before. 

Onions in Wine Sauce a la Sylvaner 

Cover two quarts of small white pickling onicns 
with boiling water and allow to stand for fifteen 
minutes. Drain, remove skins but don't cut. just 
scrape the root ends. (There's reason for all this 
monkey business: the scalding will save you from 
tears, the scraping will save the onion from com- 
ing apart at the seams.) Cover the peeled onions 
with a bottle (4/5 quart) of white wine and a cup 
of white wine vinegar. Add a half-can of Italian 
tomato paste, a quarter-cup of olive (or salad I 
oil, a quarter-cup of sugar, a cup of bleached 
seedless raisins, two tablespoons of salt, and a little 
cheesecloth bag containing four cloves, four pep- 
percorns, a pod of red pepper, and five sprigs cf 
thyme. Cook slowly until the onions are just tender 
and the sauce thickened and topaz color. (If the 
onions cook too quickly, reduce the sauce separate- 
ly. ) Put into sterilized jars and seal while hot. 
Tired? Better not be. When your December 
Californian arrives, and you see all the plans I've 
made for your Christmas tree cookies, you'll see 
what I mean ! 

pert bows and j§ay ribbons enhance the finest expression of the day 



it's holiday time 
and g§ood cooks 
can make a 
Christmas merry ! 


"It's a dream house of realistic people who want pleasant 
living in a contemporary atmosphere . . created for good 

That's how Paul Laszlo, internationally famous designer, 
describes The Californian House he has created to congeal 
your suggestions and requests. The Californian House, spon- 
sored by The Californian Magazine, is a dream come true if 
your letters are the wishful criterion of today. Situated 
at 1041 Ravoli Drive in picturesque Brentwood, the house 
in construction embodies the desires of the majority of you 
who want to live "the California Way." 

Roomy, yet compact, its cne story contains approximately 
1800 square feet, 440 more go into the two-car garage, 776 
for roofed terraces. There are two light and airy bedrooms, 
a charming den, two baths, living room and dining room, 
which is a part of the living area, children's indoor play 
area, kitchen, fireplace, barbecue and patio. Even a built-in 
safe, which was the clever suggestion of Perdita Ritchie of 
Cold Spring. Kentucky. 

Facing the hills and ocean on the former Will Rogers 
Estate, The Californian House is a livable, comfortable home. 
Nearly all of you wanted plenty of room with minimum up- 
keep; built-in features to lighten house work. The Californian 
House is set back from the street to afford privacy, with a 
drive right to the door. Large windows facing the ocean and 
the hills actually give it two beautiful fronts. You'll find 
forced air unit heating with summer ventilation, a glass case 
between dining area and kitchen for easy serving and easy 
storage; combination dressing room and bathroom, protected 
outdoor dining area . . even a telephone connection at the 
barbecue. These are just a few of the Paul Laszlo execu- 
tions of your idea. 

Soon The Californian House will be ready to visit and 
view. An early issue of The Californian Magazine will an- 
nounce the premiere and present a complete illustrated story 
of the house you wanted and conceived. With this floor 
plan and these designer ideas, you can live graciously, com- 
fortably and luxuriously in The California Way of Life . . 
wherever you may be. 


paul laszlo creates the 
California dream house in 
beautiful brentwood 
for your contemporary mood 

Unique floor plan of one-slory construction embodies the features you 
wanted . . two bedrooms and den, children's indoor play area, roomy 
kitchen with light and air, large living area combined with dining 
room, fireplace, barbecue, and an unsurpassed view of ocean and hills 



Somehow, fine leather becomes' intimate 
with a man the minute it becomes his 
His belt that is rubbed to a sheen, his 
wallet that's usually overstuffed, even 
the worn tobacco pouch that he drags 
out at the most embarassing moments, 
reflect more of the man than anything 
else in his wardrobe. Leather is a man's 
fabric ... it becomes him as no other 
fabric does. 

That's what makes suede the perfect 
Christmas gift for a man. He takes to 
it instinctively. It becomes his pet, and 
like this jacket, he wears it whenever 
the opportunity presents itself. 

That, too, is what makes these two 
suede jackets so versatile. They fit into 
the mood, anyplace, anytime. A jacket 
for him and a cardigan for his son; 
both of sheer, soft suede, tailored with 
the fine tailoring detail that character- 
izes every California Sportwear item. 

Sheer suede, so soft it feels like a 
fabric, so durable that it becomes more 
wearable as the years go by, is the latest 
development of the Golden West. This 
Californian knows how to wear it, and 
his son emulates his father's good taste. 
He combines his jacket with gabardine 
sport shirt, flannel slacks and soft com- 
fortable shoes. A "natural" sportswear 
outfit, simple but in good taste. Perfect 
for a cool fall or a cold winter's wear. 

The man's jacket is the "Elegante" model by 
CALIFORNIA SPORTWEAR. It has a three-button 
front, tie-belt, king-size pockets with flaps. In 
stone and chamois-colored sheer suede. About 
$62.50. The boy's three-button suede cardigan is 
the "Kid Coronado." And its leather buttons have 
gold rims. In sand color only. About $17.95. 


Lithographs and 
Audubon prints are 
grouped at two 
levels of stairs in 
Max Factor's home 

Do the pictures on your walls lead lives of their own, 
isolated by lonely placement, lack of personality, or 
are they arranged and framed thoughtfully to drama- 
|ize and harmonize with their backgrounds and other fur- 
lishings? In picture placement, as in all home decorating, 
here are traditional and contemporary fashions; conventional 
md original arrangements. In California, today, the trend 
s toward wall treatments as colorful and unregimented as 
arefree outdoor living. 

Decorator Dick Turpin did two separate groupings of pic- 
ures to dramatize the lower and upper staircase walls at 
:he Beverly Hills home of Max Factor, Jr., providing an in- 
:eresting view, from above and below, but neither intrudes 
Dn the other since you can see only one grouping at a time. 
On the lower wall, visible from entrance hall, ten original 
lithographs are combined in stepped lines which parallel the 
rise of the stairsteps. Mounted on yellow mats, their narrow 
mahogany frames accent the contrast with light coral walls, 
gray chenille carpeting, and an off-gray shadow box win- 
dow treatment at the turn of the stairs. 

In the upper hall, 
shadow box frames of 
more of the mahogany, 
to match the balustrade 
tail, enclose the Audu- 
jbon prints, vividly fleck- 
jed with red, green, yel- 
uow and chartreuse. The 
,'prints flank a large Eng- 
lish garden scene, and 
Jare arranged in diagonal 
line to support and draw 
attention to the master 

At the home of Mr. and 
Mrs. Davis Factor, six 
matched round - framed 
family portraits, with 
deep turquoise mats, 

Stand out against the wall Family portraits add interest to fireside 
above the fireplace. wall i„ this beautiful Beverly Hills home 

at PALM SPRINGS for the patio 

at BAR HARBOR for the den 

at MIAMI for yachting 

at SOLDIERS* F1ELB for football 

at SUN VALLEY for winter sports 

. . . wherever smart people gather you'll see the California 
Robette . . . the lightweight 100% virgin Wool blanket for casual 
living. It's a beautiful Christmas gift! 

Comes in two sizes, 58x42, $7.95 . . . 58x72, $12.95, postpaid. 




(Add 2'/2% sales tax for delivery in California) 

Specify your color choice by number. Color No. 1 is shown 
above; five other vivid California colors ore shown below 

Casual Strappings 

Choose wonderful California accessories to compliment your 
sportswear... casual and correct are "Vic" Colton's wedge shoes 
Emmet's cowhide bags, Coro gold collar, Parker's pigskin gloves 

You'll take greater pride in these glamour-made California 
pretties, highly original and dramatic: Ted Saval's platform 
shoes, Ben Brody suede bags, Coro jewels, Ailuj suede gloves. 

Elegant Trappings 


A NEW ANGLE on skirts . . . Preview Sportswear mitres 
multicolor stripes . . . wonderful contrast for bright blouses 

or sweater like this zephyr by Maurice Holman. Flannel skirt, 
about $9 at Hale Bros., San Francisco ; Swelldom, Los Angeles. 


YOURS TRULY* ••and so easy to order 

Beautiful hand work on the cutout beaded monogram makes this the one 
blouse you will cherish. It's carefully tailored by Deauville Models in 
fine tissue faille crepe. Monogram in silver, gold, black or white bead- 
ing. Blouse in white only. Sizes 32 to 38. Send for it now. .. delivery 
within 2 to 3 weeks Only $14.95 complete with monogramming. 

ersonal Fashion Accessories 




Enclosed please find check or money order for $ 1 4.95. Send me 
by parcel posf fhe wh;'fe monogrammed blouse as advertised. 


□ □ □ 





.SIZE (32 to 38)- 




California residents please add 2^A% state sales tax. 3% within Los Angeles. 






Average Maximum 



Average Minimum 









Percentage Sunshine 







SO YOUR vacation comes late this year? Take heart! 
Take a train or plane and come west! November in 
California is a thanks-giving period for wonderful 
and countless enchanting things to see and do. 

What to wear? The majority of the days will be 
balmy with an occasional tinge of crispness. Your 
tailored travel suit will fit beautifully into the No- 
vember picture for shopping, luncheon and sip 'n' 
run cocktails. For later hours . . informal dining, 
dancing and the theatre . . there's nothing like a dark 
dinner suit in satin or moire . . an artist's beret of 
black velvet can be worn with either, and you'll find 
it easy to pick. 

November in California is a month for slacks and 
pedal-pushers, for sweaters and gay little jackets . . 
you'll wear them for lounging, for scuffing through 
leaf-strewn paths and for moonlight beach sorties. 
As always, there will be plenty of sun in California 
. . Palm Springs, its season just well under way, 
will beckon you down for its incomparable desert- 
mountain beauty and its perpetual round of fun . . 
you'll want sun togs and one or two light prints. 

Indispensable roundabouter is the long-sleeved 
casual classic dress . . a dark stripe on light, with 
dark accessories to fill many a bill. And if your 
itinerary includes rustic sojourns, you'll love having a 
tweed jacket and a bright wool skirt. Scarves, of 
course, several of them. 

For football games, the races, and for traveling, 
the ideal accoutrement is a soft, full-swinging suede 
coat, perhaps with matching beret. And 
your fur coat comes into its own for 
after-sundown wear. Holiday dining, 
family conclaves and jewel-tone wool 
or knit dresses go hand-in-mitten . . and 
en route to your dinner destination, a 
gay wool topper is a must. 

Try day and evening tricks with a 
jerkin of dark wool threaded with bright 
metal. For days, it can be worn over a 
long-sleeved tailored blouse and skirt 
. . for evenings wear it with over-the- 
elbow gloves and a long slim skirt of 
dark wool-crepe. 


T he lovely Palmdayl blouses as pictured on page 41 are available at the 
following stores: 

ALASKA: Fairbanks, Gladys Morris Ladies' Ready To Wear; Anchorage/ 
Smart Shop; Seward, Moody's Dept. Store; Ketchikan, J. R. Heckman Inc., 
Juneau, B. M. Behrends Co.; Sitka, Ann's Apparel. 

ARIZONA: Phoenix, Porter's & Korrick's; Flagstaff, Babbitt Bros.; Tucson, 
Jacome's; Winslow, Babbitt Bros.; Kingman, Central Commercial Co. 

CALIFORNIA: Blythe, Halby's; Van Nuys, Sporty Knit; San Francisco, City 
of Paris, Helene's; Burlingame, Town & Country Shop; Bakersfield, Harry. 
Coffee, Malcolm Brock Co., La Cresta Village Frock Shop; Merced, Selb's,- 
Oildale, Alma Mae Smart Shop; Oxnard, Dolly Brigham; Paso Robles, 
Chamber's Dress Shop; San Diego, Hafter's; Claremont, Town & Country;! 
Santa Barbara, Jack Rose; San Luis Obispo, Ru-Mae Shop; Pismo Beach,. 
Dorotha Harding; Inglewood, Marbro's; Laguna Beach, Stuart Avis; Seal' 
Beach, Kute-Togs; Ontario, Henry's; Lake Arrowhead, Bud Sigs; Whittier, : 
Justine's; Balboa, Surf & Sand; Pasadena, Bullock's-Pasadena; E. Los 
Angeles, Bette Duke; Glendale, Knit Togs; Compton, Knit Togs; Beverly 
Hills, Nobby Knit; Oakland, H. C. Capwell Co.; Berkeley, J. F. Hink & Son; • 
Taft, Pruiett's; Fresno, Harry Coffee, Swendra's; Lemoore, Clayton's Dress' 
Shop; Shafter, Johnson-Neuman; Tulare, Lois Style Shop; Pacific Beach, 
Carolyn's; National City, Ethel's; La Jolla, lller's, Inc.; Ventura, Jack Rose; Fall- i 
brook, Vivienne's; Alameda, Dorothy's of Alameda; Santa Ana, Mattingly's; Re- 
dondo Beach, Herman's; Burbank, Townley's; Fullerton, Kingsbury's; Bell, Fash- 
ion Shop; Montebello, West-Ways; Los Angeles, Bullock's and Bullock's-West- 
wood; Long Beach, Knit Togs; Huntington Park, Knit Togs; Santa Monica, Camp- 
bell's; San Fernando, Valley Sportswear; Monrovia, McBratney's; Temple 
City, Murphy's; No. Hollywood, Rathbun's; Belmont Shore, Sportbar; Mont- 
rose, Scanlon Sportswear; Pomona, Taylor's Sportswear; Anaheim, Clarice | 
Apparel; Covina, Eleanor's of Covina; Hollywood, Nobby Knit; San Ber- 
nardino, Sport Togs; Riverside, Kristy's. 

COLORADO: Colorado Springs, C. V. Clamp Ladies' Shop; Denver, Daniels | 
& Fisher; Grand Junction, Harry B. Manuel; Pueblo, Day-Jones Co. 
FLORIDA: Miami, Sally Anne Sportswear. 

IDAHO: Boise, The Falk Mercantile Co.; Lewiston, Scotty's; Pocatello, Fargo- 

ILLINOIS: Chicago, James F. Bisset Co.; Community Gift Shop, Lola Wen- 
dorff; Highland Park, The J. B. Garnett Co.; Glencoe, Garnett & Co.; Evans- 
ton, Ruda's; Wilmette, Hoffman Bros., Ethel Mannerud; Lake Forest, Garnett 

INDIANA: Indianapolis, L. S. Ayres. 
KANSAS: Colby, Colby Classics. 
MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, The Dayton Co. 

MONTANA: Billings, The D. J. Cole Co.; Bozeman, Chamber-Fisher Co.; 
Great Falls, Andrew Thisted & Sons, Inc. 

NEBRASKA: Kimball, Vogue Shop; Sidney, Princess Shoppe. 
NEVADA: Las Vegas, Ronzone's Dept. Store, The Dude; Reno, Wonder 
Millinery & Dress Shop. 

NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Kistler-Collister Co.; Clovis, Thelma's; Ro swell, 

OREGON: Pendleton, Mosette's; Medford, Burleson's; Portland, Olds Wort- 
man & King,- Newberg, Miller's; Sweet Home, Moore's; North Bend, The 
White House; Coos Bay, The Hub; La Grande, Rath's; Redmond, Ethel 
Smith's Dress Shop; Burns, The Vogue; Portland, Charles F. Berg; Hermiston, 
Bumham & Burnham; Coquille, Lorenz Dept. Store; Oregon City, Audre'sj 
Gresham, Pauletta's; Roseburg, Miller's; Bend, Rath's; Ashland, Pentzer's. 
OHIO: Dayton, Lenore Zapoleon. 
TEXAS: El Paso, Popular Dry Goods Co. 

UTAH: Salt Lake City, Wolfe's Sportsmen Hdqs.; Salt Lake Knitting Store; 
Ogden, Fred M. Nye; Provo, Evan Thomas Co. 

WASHINGTON: Bellingham, Victor's; Kennewick, The Crest; Richland, Hurt's 
Apparel; Camas, Wadsworth Gown Shop; Burlington, Maxine's Style Shop; 
Grandview, Rose Dress Shop; Ritzville, Rummer's Style Shop; Sedro Wooley, 
Mary Louise Shop; Ellen sburg, Morgan's; Pullman, Betty's Fashion Shop; 
Prosser, Perry's Women's Wear; Port Orchard, Barbara Best Fashions; Walla 
Walla, King's; Longview, The Style Shop; Enumclaw, Knowlton's; Yakima, Jess 
Barber's Sport Shop, Miller's; Clarkston, Lee Morris Co.; Pasco, Marian's; 
Spokane, Rusan's; Wen a tehee. The Fashion Shop and Alaska Dress Shop- 
Toppenish, June's Specialty Shop. 

WYOMING: Rawlins, Ferguson Mercantile Co.; Newcastle, Wallack's; Cody; 
K & K Shop. 



I he new match -slim "Miss Preview" skirt, as adver- 
ised on page 16, is available at the following stores: 
kLABAMA: Birmingham, Parisian; Montgomery, Mont- 
lomery Fair. 

IXLASKA: Anchorage, Carol Shop. 
ARIZONA: Tucson, Taylor's. 

1ALIFORNIA: Alameda, Miss Alameda; Alhambra, Betty 
"o-Ed, Lieberg's; Anaheim, Clarice; El Centro, Hazel 
larch; El Monte, Miss & Matron,- Gramercy Park, 
ileonore's; Co mo ton, Jr. Deb; CI a rem on t, Brickman'sj 
: ullerton, Kingsbury; Glendale, Cameo; Hollywood, Dear- 
Jen's, Regina Sport Shop; HoltvMIe, Swanson's; In- 
ilewood, Rifz Apporel; Indio, Harris Co.; Hermosa 
leach, Jean's; Manhattan Beach, Jean's; Huntington 
'ark, Dearden's; North Hollywood, Sporty Knit; Oak- 
and. Hale Bros.; Ocean Beach, Veda Moss; Pomona, 

$ Ir. Jills; Pasadena, F. C. Nash; Redlands, Blum's; 

i liverside, Kristy's; Sacramento, Hale Bros.; Stockton, 
The Wonder; Son Diego, Hafter's; San Bernardino, 
Harris & Co.; San Francisco, Hale Bros.; San Jose, 
Hate Bros.; Santa Barbara, Wendel's; Santa Ana, 
haltingly; San Pedro, Lewis; Santa Monica, Morbro 
lampus Shop; Temple City, Lieberg's; Tulare, Allen's 
Style Shop; Whittier, Trbbett's. 

ZOLORADO: Boulder, La Salle's; Denver, Joslin Dry 
Soods; Colorado Springs, Perkins-Shearer. 
: LORIDA: Miami, Burdine's. 
GEORGIA: Augusta, J. B. White. 

I HAWAII: Honolulu, Bunny's. 
|DAHO: Pocatello, Fargo-Wilson-Wells. 

! ILLINOIS: Joliet, Boston Store, 
j NDIANA: Terre Haute, Root Dry Goods Co. 
MASSACHUSETTS: Boston, Neal's of California. 
MINNESOTA: Duluth, Duluth Glass Block. 
MISSOURI: Joplin, Chenault's; Kansas City, Jones Store. 
'MONTANA: Butte, Hennessey & Co. 

I NEVADA: Las Vegas, Johnson's. 

[NEW YORK: New York, John Wannamaker. 

; pHIO: Cincinnati, McAlpine's; Toledo, Lion Dry Goods. 

j OREGON: Leon's in Astoria, Salem, Klamath Falls, 
iugene and Medford. 

[PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, John Wanamaker; Pitts- 

I burgh, Frank & Seder; Wilkes Barre, Lazarus Store; 

I Lancaster, Watt & Shand, Inc. 

I.50UTH CAROLINA: Greensville, J. B. White. 

IjTENNESSEE: Nashville, Caster Knott; Chattanooga, 

IjLoveman's; Memphis, J. Gerber. 

|j"EXAS: Houston, Byrd's,- Ft. Worth, Monnig Dry Goods; 

| pan Antonio, The Vogue. 

IjJTAH: Ogden, Nadine's; Salt Lake City, Salt Lake 
| Knit Shop. 

I WASH I NGTON: Everett, Chaffee's; Seattle, Mac- 
l|Dougalf & Southwick; Tacoma, Peoples Store; Yakima, 
llPeoples Store; Port Angeles, Peoples Store; Chehalis, 
iPeoples Store; Ellensburg, Peoples Store; Bellingham, 
IfAacDougall-Southwick; Mt. Vernon, MacDougall-South- 
livick; Wenatchee, MacDougall-Southwick; Vancouver, 

Leon's; Longview, Leon's. 


BESS IWlil'Y ^ fsiir" BY ™ E AC " ° F MARCH 

KOf The CALIFOKNIAN, published monthly, at Los Angeles, 

I California, for September 24. 1948. 

IKtate of California, County of Los Angeles — ss. 

■ I Before me, a Notary Public In and for the State and 
tfCounty aforesaid, personally appeared J. H. Osherenko, 
■who, having been duly sworn according to law, deposes 

■ kind says that he Is the Publisher of The CALIFORNIAN, 
Ibnd that the fol lowing Is, to the best of his knowledge 

■ land belief, a true statement of the ownership, mamgement 
■Hand if a dally, weekly, semi weekly or triweekly news- 
■Ipaper, the circulation), etc., or the aforesaid publication 

■ (Tor the date shown in the above cnnttnn. ronulrert hv the 
Itact of August 24. 1912, as amended by the acta of March 

:<. 1933. and July 2. 1946 (section 537, Postal Laws and 
I Regulations) , printed on the re om e of this form, to wit: 

II 1. That the names and addresses of the publisher, 

editor, managing editor, and business managers are: 
Publisher, J. R. Osherenko. 1020 S. Main St., Los 
Angeles 15, Calif.; Editor. J. R. Osherenko, 1O20 S. 
Main St., Los Angeles 15. Calif.: ^^^ erflslng Direr- 
tor. William J. Bowen, 1020 S. Main St., Los An- 
?*.?£ J, 5 * Ca,lf -: Managing Editor, Donald A. Carlson. 
I 1020 S. Main St.. Lot \n-'.-le« 15. Ca"f 

t 2. That the owner Is: (If owned by a corporation, Ita 
n ?™ e * nd address must be stated and also lmmedi- 
ateiy thereunder the names and addresses of stock- 
holders owning or holding one percent or more of 
total amount of stock. If not owned bv a corporation 
the names and addresses of the Individual owners 
must be given. If owned by a firm, company, or other 
unincorporated concern, its name and address, as well 
as those of each individual member, must be given 1 
The CALIFOnv T >\- Magazine. Inc.. 1020 S. Main St., 
Los Angeles 15, California: Donald A. Carlson & Gen- 
evieve Carlson, 339 N. Bronson Ave.. Los Angeles. 
Calif.; Marco K. Frankel, 301 Tonawanda Dr.T Oes 
Moines, Iowa; Babette Frankel, 301 Tonawanda Dr., 
Des Moines. Iowa: Philip Kustner. 3815 Main St. 
Riverside, Calf.; ^vtv:.n Mendelsohn. 1139 Alvira 
Los_Angeles. Calif.; Carol Osherenko, 802 N. 
Beverly Hills. C-iHf.: -Toe R. n^herpnlrr 

Bedford Dr., 

802 N. Bedrord Dr., Beverly Hllla, Callf.i Loxda 
Osherenko. 711 Ellery Dr.. San Pedro, Calif.- ih 
Prinzmetal, 9441 Wllshlre Blvd.. Bex erly Hills, Calif • 
r^i r | m ^ n ^ nna c Vf nd - 7no '' Beverly Blvd.. Los Angeles! 
Calif.; Saul I Sf-erman. 1450 Broadway, New \ork 
Pl\. Y Lo S LU £g'e e ief. ?8f f ? Famham - "20% Hacienda 
That the known bondholders, mortgagees, and other 
at £t$ iJS^m 1 ? ° f W ? ,n ^ ° r noWingl percent or more 
of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securi- 
ties are: (If there are none, so state.) None. 
That the two paragraphs next above, giving the 
names of the owners, stockholders, and security hold- 
ers, if any, contain not only the list of stockholders 
and security holders as they appear upon the books 
of the company but also. In cases where the stock- 
holder or security holder appears upon the books of 
the company as trustee or In any other fiduciary re- 
lation. th<? name of the person or corporation for 
whom such trustee Is acting, is given; also that the 
said two paragraphs contain statements embracing 
affiant s full knowledge and belief as to the circum- 
stances and conditions under which stockholders and 
security holders who do not appear upon the books 
of the company as trustees, hold stock and securities 
in a capacity other than that of a bona fide owner* 
and this affiant has no reason to believe that any 
other person, association, or corporation has any In- 
terest direct or Indirect in the said stock, bonds, or 
other securities than as so stated by him. 

(Signed) J. R. Osherenko. Editor & Publisher. 
Sworn to and subscribed before me 
this 24th day of September, 1948. 

(Seal) Erma A. Potter 

(My commission expires August 28, 1951) 

imtki^l tit tmtk - 

the new ere a se - resistant 


For that fresh, radiant look — 
that wonderful unwrinkled look, 
with alluring swish and rustle, 

choose the new "Everglaze" 
taffetas that do not shrink 
or stretch and have a rich, 

durable lustre. In yard goods and 

made-up garments everywhere. 

*A trade- mark signifying fabric finished and tested according to processes 
and standards controlled and prescribed by Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co. 




Use to skim 
cream from milk 

Use to water 
plants & flowers 



Perfect results 
in few seconds 

Use to beat 
one or more eggs 

ARTBECK PAN HANDLER handles hot utensils safely., easily 

burned fingers 


A wonderful gift for Christmas . . . ideal for the culinary heart of every home! A practical threesome 
that saves your time, your temper and lots of trouble. They can be purchased singly, too. The Artbeck 
Beater at $1, Artbeck Baster at 79c and the clever Artbeck Pan Handler at $1. You'll want a set for 
yourself and several as gifts for your friendsl Send check or money order Today to 

Box 1176 


Add 2'/2% sales tax if you live In California 

Beverly Hills, California 

THE CALIFORNIAN, November, 1948 



BEFORE XMAS S9.9S postpaid 

Price reduced only as exclusive introductory 
offer— a get acquainted offer to our high 
quality products at lower prices through direct 
mail order. This originally designed dipper 
clock comes in bright polished lacquered 
copper that blends with any color scheme for 
any room. Makes a delightfully different gift 
that you will be proud to give. It is a self- 
starting electric clock with the famous "Ses- 
sion Movement". Comes complete with cord 
and plug. Case 6" diam. 13J4" long. 

This special offer is good only on orders 
received before Amos. A money bach guaran- 
tee if not completely satisfied. Remit by 
check or money order. 


The long and 

the short of it 

The large paddle is a good mixer in 
iced tea or a tall drink, the short 
muddler for Old Fashioneds. They 
make a very special thank you for 
a favorite hostess or a gift for a late 
summer wedding. Handforged of 
sterling silver the long paddles are 
$4.80 each and the muddlers $3.60 
each, tax included. Postage 25c. 


Upper Darby, Pa. 

Box 425 

/7*t u*uUmgI Qifft Otett* 

Adds charm to the entrance of mansion 
or cottage. Pictured above, set #14, only 
$14.50 delivered. Seven other beautiful 
aluminum filagreed scrolls in sets from 
$6.85 to $12.50 delivered. Order today 
or virite for Bulletin #552-B. 


666 Washington Road, Pittsburgh 16, Pa. 


Care of fine hosiery — try this way. 

Handle with soft hands, don't snag them with rough nails or 
a hang nail. 

Put on hosiery by placing over the toes and easing up over 
the heel and ankle with one hand either side . . . gently, don't 
pull on or off roughly. To remove reverse the procedure. 

Launder hosiery immediately upon removal. Use gentle 
soapy tepid water and slush the stockings about, don't rub. 
Rinse several times to be certain that all soap has been removed. 
Roll in towel for several seconds to absorb excess moisture, 
then hang to dry. Shaping the hosiery as it is put up to dry 
will quicken the drying time and leave them flat for folding. 
Put them into padded hosiery box when not in use. 

Longer life for each pair will result with rotation and you'll 
save by buying two pair in each color. Fashion wise this year 
are wearing muted tones that blend the costume into the shoes. 


Exclusive new 

sandal fashion 

a. Unborn calf wilK natural brown and 
white mnrbings 6.95 

l>. Blacb velveteen nnd red velveteen or blncli 
suede, red suede, or green suede . . . 5.95 

C. Drnwstring lia-j in black or red velveteen, 
(1.00 Federal Tax Included) 5.95 

d. Leaflet belt to mntcb, in unborn calf, 
velveteen or suede 3.95 

Originals styled by 

m m . % . • LESTER BAYMER 


Hollywood Bootery, 6683 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, Calif. 

Send Me: Sandals Q Bag □ Belt Q Material 

Size Color 2nd Color 

Name Street 

City Zone State 

California residents add 2]/e% sales tax. Mail orders promptly filled. 


Just like eating from fine china! ! 


18 pieces. Porcelain enameled plates, cups and 

bowls (6 each). Clean, white and rugged — with 

I black a trim. Packed in special carton with carrying 

handle weighing only 5 lbs. complete. 

$4.75 Set. Postage Ppd. 

Order several for Xmas gifts. 


Box #3422 Richmond Heights, Mo. 



Regain youthful 
loveliness this easy wa 

"Friends say 1 look 10 years you 1 
port many women using famous' a 
Murray 5-Minule way to beaut) 
Facial Course helps banish betray' 
kles. crows feet, double chin . . . re! 
young contours. So easy! So quickl 
facial exercises stimulate nourishing 
tion, restore vibrant tone. Success. 1 ! 
by more than 40,000 women! 


New beauty for you 

Write for FREE BOOKLET in pi; 
per telling how facial exercise can i 
look years younger. Noobligation. 
man will call. Send name and addrc 


206 S. Michigan Av., Suite 1094, ChiiMj/ 


Louise Sa/ing 
Schools of Dress Des i$ 


Pattern Destining, Pattern iflt 
Millinery. Tailoring. H 
Modeling. Day and EvemnJH 
Catalogue B. 
Maiden La. & 

Kearny St. 

San Francisco, 


Do. 28059 

Wood )|» 
Pitt,. , tl 

Allan- :3J|t 


A soft creamy golden center mi 
brown sugar and extra choice 
just right proportions — covered thic 
the finest quality of pure dark 
They're called BROWN ST T GAR < 
ENT ! Try some now — then order 
XMAS GIFTS. Exquisitely wrappi 
for the occasion in eight-ounce boxf 
three for $3.60, four for $4.60, pos 
better stores, or order direct. 


740 El Camino San Carll 

Exclusive dealers desired. 

They're New! 




They're here at last — they won! 
out — Gleaming solid metal hold! 
corn on the cob; now eat with \ 
pleasure — Handles kept cool by I 
turned air-space fins— Easily twist irl 
cob ends— Won't break or melt cl 
— Ideal gift for every family, every! 

1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plate} %'<\ 

2. Service for 3 (Silver Plate] 

3. Service for 4 (Chrome Plate) 

4. Service for 4 (Silver Plcilel 
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax. 





L lorful Stellar robes, as advertised on 
ill , are available for holiday gifts at 
ffiiwing stores: 

15II Fairbanks, Jeanette's and Lucille's; 
thi|i. Roberta's. 

ffCU: Phoenix, Goldwater's. 

IJHNIA: Alameda, Town Shop; Beverly 
firta Strauss and Livingston's; Brawley, 
OKing; Compton, Smart Shop; El Centro, 
QKing; Fairfield, Hyde Co.; Fresno, Jos. 

t'al ; Hayward, Bressman's; Hollister, 
■I n's; Indio, M. O. King; Lancaster, 
l': .os Angeles, Kay's Dept. Store, Brown's, 
V. Robinson; Lompoc, Rudolph's; Long 

Beach, Pavey's, Walker's; Martinez, Florence 
Shop; Oakland, H. C. Capwell, Westbrook's, 
Jos. Magnin, Lindberg's; Pomona, Ora Addies; 
Palo Alto, Lundin & McBride, Jos. Magnin, Sue 
Berry Salon; Paradise, Ye Town Shop; Pasadena, 
Pasadena Corset Shop, Fashionette, Bullock's- 
Pasadena; Pittsburg, Mary's Dress Shop; Pacific 
Grove, Holman's; Redding, C. M. Dickers, Inc.; 
Redlands, The Harris Co.; San Bernardino, The 
Harris Co.; Sacramento, Jos. Magnin Co.; San 
Diego, Gilda, Walkers'; San Mateo, Jos. Mag- 
nin; San Leandro, Julia's; Santa Barbara, 
Trenwith's; Santa Monica, Campbell's and 
Berkeley Sport Shop; Santa Rosa, Rosenberg's; 
San Francisco, Maison Mendessolle, Barbara 
Lexington, Jos. Magnin, City of Paris, Em- 
porium, H. Liebes & Co.; Temple City, Leora 
Blessinger; Vista, Loretta Marie Shop; Vallejo, 

You'll Be 

Smitten With This 

California Foot Mitten! 

tjithe wonderful barefoot comfort and foot protection of these oriental-inspired foot mittens. 

s are for patio, pool, swimming, dance classes, dorm and indoor lounging, 
and colors accessorize your every need: faded blue denim; white terry cloth; Everfast 
lit' in black, yellow, aqua, white and red. Sizes S-M-L. 

your check or money order for $2.95 (add 8c sales tax for Calif ornians) to 
H^ARGORITA SHOP • 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, California 


This beautiful BLUE MAGIC salt shaker is 
made of crystal clear glass. This new inven- 
tion has a moisture absorbing cap which 
may be set aside during mealtime. Lasts in- 
definitely. Keeps salt dry and free flowing at 
all times. A pepper shaker to match and 
small plastic funnel included in this superb- 
ly styled condiment set. An ideal hostess 
gift. Guaranteed by Good Housekeeping. 
Send for a set now. You may want more 
before damp weather arrives. 

Price $2.50 ££ w 

ILVERMINE SPECIALTIES CO. Box 336, New Canaan, Conn. 


Early American trivet repro- 
ductions. Will hold teapots, 
flower pots, or hot plates. 
Or hang them as decorative 
wall plaques. (A) Grape; (B) 
Colonial Eagle; (C) Star. $1 
each, $2.75 for 3, postpaid. 
Money back guarantee. Over- 
all length, approx. 9" in 
smoky black iron. 


YORK 10, PA. 


Children love to play with these minia- 
ture groceries. They are exact reproduc- 
tions of those on mother's shelf, made 
of wood for durability. Order this ap- 
pealing set for all the young fry on 
your Christmas list. Just $1.00 for the 
set of ten, postage prepaid. (No 
CO.D.'s please). 


P. 0. Box 91, Niagara Square Station 

Buffalo, New York 

Dealers prices on request. 

COLORADO: Colorado Springs, Kayf man's; 
Denver, Chez Marie, Norman's Casual Shop. 
CONNECTICUT: Hartford, G. Fox 8. Co. 
IDAHO: Pocatello, Paris Co.; Boise, Brook- 

ILLINOIS: Cicero, La Vide Shop. 
KANSAS: Wichita, Geo. Innes Co. 
LOUISIANA: Bogalusa, Goldman's. 
MONTANA: Butte, Cannon's. 
NEVADA: Reno, Jos. Magnin. 
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Kistler-Collister Co. 
OKLAHOMA: Oklahoma City, Halliburton's. 
OREGON: Oswego, Freda's Town & Country; 
Portland, Meier & Frank; Salem, Smart Shop; 
Roseburg, Mabel Lewis. 
OHIO: Cleveland, The Higbee Co. 
TEXAS: Rosenberg, Libby's; San Antonio; 
Vogue, Inc. 

UTAH: Ogden, Fred M. Nye Co.; Cedar City, 
Moderne Style Shop. 

WASHINGTON, D. C: The Hecht Co. 
WASHINGTON: Tacoma, Knettle's; Chehalis, 
Boynton's Smart Shop; Seattle, Frederick & 
Nelson; Spokane, Alexander's. 
WYOMING: Worland, Smart Shop. 


To protect the top of your bureau, keep a 
piece of white blotting paper under the 
cover to absorb anything that happens 
to spill. The drawers will be easy to keep 
fresh and clean if you paint them on 
the inside with white enamel. You can save 
cleaning time by lining the drawers with 
oilcloth, but if you use white paper lin- 
ing, use transparent tape to hold it firmly 
in place. If you're using a drawer to store 
clothes, cover them with brown paper to 
help keep out the dust. 


Sensitive! Accurate! New! 
The HUMIDIAL combines in one 

lightweight attractive case a standard 
Thermometer and a novel, accurate 
Relative Humidity Indicator. This in- 
expensive instrument serves as visual 
aid in regulating humidity, insures 
maximum comfort and better health, 
warns against mold and mildew. An 
important aid in weather forecasting. 
Order it for your home and for your 

Jusf $1.98 postpaid 


1536 Connecticut Ave., N. W. Washington 6: D. C. 

JjCtCUJ x>) 




in breath-taking fall shades 

. . . choice of sheerness 

Featuring the new high-moulded heel 

51 Gauge, 30 Denier 51 Gauge, 15 Denier 

3 PR. for $4.00 3 PR. for $+.75 

54 Gauge, 15 Denier 

3 PR. for $5.75 

Gift Wrapped on Request 
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Refunded 

Sizes % l A to 11. 

Brown Toast — to wear with 

brown and beige 
Autumn _ Dusk — neutral for 

brownish taupe and beige 
Honey Almond — flattering with 

light brown, beige and greens 
Smoke Cloud — blends with 

slate and smokey gray and 


of California 

728 Montana Avenue 
Santa Monica, Calif. 

3 Prs. 

send me 
$4.00 □ 


following nylons; 
Prs. $4.75 □ 



$5.75 □ 


Zone State- 
Money Order □ Check O 

In California, add 3% sales tax. 
Postage Prepaid 



Dazzle those knitters on your gift list with a HERO GIFT KIT! Cleverly con 
rayon moire kit, handily carried in knitter's bag. An ideal gift combin 
wine, black, green and rose, also stripes and plaids. (We reserv< 

our own choice.) 

KIT NO. 1116 (Lorge Kit) Priced: S12.75. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 14 f ' " 

Needles; 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum Needles; 5 sets 7" D. P. Alui 

1 Plastic Knit Count; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 4 Plastic Crochet Hooks; 1 Gouge; 1 — 
KIT NO. 1115 (Smoll Kit) Priced: S7.95. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum 

Needles; 6 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 1 Plastic Knit 

Count; 1 Plastic Crochet Hook. 

These beautiful kits are available now . . . send you? check or money order to 

MARG0RITA SHOP • 1018 south main street • los angeles is, California 




Glamorize your eyes with "SUNOUT" EYE- 
PROTECTORS . . . give your eyes that 
wanted sparkle before dates ... try "Sun- 
outs" for a quick pickup after a strenuous 
day . . . saturate "Sunouts" with your favor- 
ite eye lotion. Place on closed eyelid — you 
need "not remove makeup . . . "Sunouts" are 
placed above the eyelash . . . relax for ten 
minutes . . . you will be amazed the sooth- 
ing effect "Sunouts" have on tired nerves . . . 
your eyes will be delightfully cool and re- 
freshed . . - "Sunouts" also induce sleep 
. . . if you are following the sun, "Sunouts" 
are indispensable for protecting the eyes from 
sunglare and sunburn ... so tiny they leave 
no rim marks ... use over and over . . . 
order today . . . Price, 3 prs. $1.00 Ppd. 

119 W. Rudisill Fort Wayne 6, Ind. 




For those who desire something that 
is distinctive, yet sure to be accept- 
able, these shelled pecans are most 
appropriate. Golden brown and deli- 
cious, they are carefully selected 
from the finest nuts grown. 
3 lbs. $4,45 — 5 lbs. $7.35 
10 lbs. $14.00 



Dept. X 

Jackson, Mississippi 

Box 193 


Lovely Creole Courtvard scenes from the 
French Quarter of Old New Orleans make 
delightful conversation pieces. Exquisite 
in any room hung singly, in_ pairs v or in 
a proup. Eight famous views include 
Brulatour Courtvard (pictured) — Little 
Theatre — Old Spanish Courtyard — Pi- 
rate's Alley — Governor Claiborne Court- 
vard — Old Absinthe House — French Mar- 
ket — St. Louis Cathedral. _ These are 
hand painted oil originals in full color 
signed by the artist on a ten-inch china 

_ $4.00 each or $7.50 pr. 
Demi-tasse cups and saucers or three 
inch potterv pitchers (above scenes). 

$2.00 each or six for $11.00 
Your favorite vacation spot or home 
painted on a ten inch china plate from 
snap-shot (send color description) $5.00. 


410+ Ravne Drive. New Orleans 19, La. 
Postage Prepaid — Insured 



I he Commuter's Suit and the Nautical Co- 
ordinates, as pictured on pages 48-49, ore crea- 
tions of Miss Hollywood Jr. and Monroe Lloyd, 
available at the following stores: 

ALABAMA: Birmingham, Parisian. 

ARIZONA: Nogales, Brackers; Phoenix, Unique 
Gown Shop. 

ARKANSAS: El Dorado, Morris Co.; Ft. Smith, 
Watkins Store; Hot Springs, Alfred M. Cohen,- 
Pine Bluff, Eisenkramer's. 

CALIFORNIA: Los Angeles, Charlotte Shop, 
Jekyll's, Robinson's; West L. A., Jeanette 
Marshall; Huntington Park, Knit Togs; Beverly 
Hills, Town Shop; Santa Ana, Markowirz Bros.; 
Hollywood, Sporty Knit, Shaynes; Santa Monica, 
The Jerry Brills, Bentleys; Arcadia, Santa Anita 
Smart Shop; San Bernardino, Stept's; Inglewood, 
Robert Skiar; Torrance, Gaye Shop; Riverside, 
The Californian; Whittier, Durands; Pasadena, 
Bullock's-Pasadena; Ventura, Jack Rose; San 
Francisco, Peggy Shoppe; Oakland, Marlowe's; 
Sacramento, Mademoiselle Shop; Modesto, J. 
Loeb Co.; Napa, Alberts; Santa Rosa, Fashion 
Shop; San Luis Obispo, Christine's; Burbank, 
Suzanne Lynn. 

COLORADO: Denver, Amter's. 

CONNECTICUT: Bridgeport, Sady Shops; Meri- 

den. The Cherniak; Middletown, Wrubels. 

FLORIDA: Bocogrande, Rachel's; Tampa, Sher- 
man's & Haber's Dept. Store; Miami Beach, 
Mayfair Shop; Jacksonville, Sherman's; Palm 
Beach, Natalie Gould; St. Petersburg, Ruth's. 
GEORGIA: Atlanta, Leon Froshin. 
GUAM, M. I.: Barrett's. 

IDAHO: Pocatello, Camitle's; Wallace, Model. 
ILLINOIS: Chicago, Morris B. Sach's; Kankakee, 
J. Lecour & Sons,- Peoria, Block & Kuhl. 
INDIANA: Elkhart, Zeisel Bros.; Evansville, Salm 
Bros.; Ft. Wayne, Paris Shop; Indianapolis, H. 
P. Wasson Co. 

IOWA: Cedar Rapids, Martin's; Des Moines, 
Younkers; Magnoketa, R. G. Mann Co.; Mason 
City, Eaton's; Marshalltown, Brintnall's; Water- 
loo, Sweeney's. 

KANSAS: Kansas City, Kay's; Wichita, Thurston's; 
Hutchinson, Greenwald's; Topeka, Harry Endlick. 
KENTUCKY: Louisville, Levy Bros. 
LOUISIANA: Alexandria, Wellen's Dept. Store; 
Baton Rouge, Ellzey's; Monroe, Bella Scherek 
Davidson; New Orleans, D. H. Holmes Co.; 
Shreveport, Palais Royal. 
MAINE: Oldtown, Ben Sklar. 

MASSACHUSETTS: Boston, Wm. Filene & Sons,- 
Lawrence, Cherry & Webb; Fall River, Cherry & 
Webb; Springfield, Forbes & Wallace. fConf.J 

His nose LIGHTS UP! 



the biggest laugh-getter in town 

Just press the button and hrs nose lights 
up like a neon sign . . . and so will the 
smile of onlookers. Blinko's the biggest 
smile-producer since the circus came 
to town. The perfect party or holiday gift. 
Has a safe, renewable flashlight battery. 

only *1 .75 ... we pay postage 

Send check or money order to: Department C 



Mewiy Xmai,! 

Say it to your pet with a KAT-FE-TER-IA. 
Or send one, as an ideal gift, to a friend, 
who owns a cat or small dog. Made of 
sturdy and bright cast aluminum, the KAT- 
FE-TER-IA is practically unbreakable. High- 
ly ornamental; it will grace any home. 10" 
long, 8" high. Removable food receptacles 
are of oven-proof glass, and have 20-ounce 
capacity. Place covers (not shown in illus- 
tration) over refused food and refrigerate; 
worm the food, if puss so demands, in the 
receptacles. Save food, time and soiled 
pans. Order nowl If you want shipment 
direct to a friend, send your Xmas card and 
we will include it in the package. Please 
advise us if you want shipment held up until 
two weeks before Xmas. 

PRICE, $3.75, POSTPAID. No C.O.D.'s 


Box 1228 Section 5 Portsmouth, Ohio 

It's Attractivel 
It's Practical! 
Hand-made of half- 
inch natural white 
Dak, banded with 4 
brass hoops, it be- 
longs where it will be 
;een. Measuring 6"x 
4", it can hold $1 1 in 
oennies, or $32.50 in 
nickels, or $1 50 in 
either dimes or quar- 
ters (we've tried itl) 
protected by a fool- 
proof lock and key. 
Bet you'll want onel 
$2.95 postpaid 

No C.O.D.'s, please 

De Witt's Country Store, New Canaan, Connecticut 

Peii Can opener punctures a big- 
ger hole for easier pouring of 
canned liquids. It ts also an ex- 
cellent bottle opener and pryer- 
offer of jar tops . . . haavy 
enough to crack cube ic«. Of 
solid aluminum with cutting 
point and edges of hard«n*d 
steel. $1 .95 postpaid. 


(Christum a 

— It's new! It's useful! It's ornamen- 
with pockets, slips on like a glove. 
No more searching in glove compart- 
ment for sun-glasses, roadmaps, note- 
book, comb, etc Even has mirror and 
zippered purse for extra parking 
coins. Handsomely bound _ leatherette, 
in blue, maroon or tan. Single cover 
$3.00, Pair $5.50 postpaid. State 
length and width of your visor, color 
wanted, make of car. Order early! 



1524 N. E. 128TH AVENUE 


*J^ Built to 

^^ shoulder line . Sui 

leisure jackets hold 
can't sag. Wide full trc 
prevents creasing. Revolvim 
plated hook. The most practica 
ever built. Can't chip, crack, break, 
smooth. Lasts a lifetime. ORDER Ji 
Gift Packed 6 to a Box. 
Ideal for Xmas. 


| Send postpaid "Aristocrat" H ga 

at $1.25 ea. Set of 12 — $12.00. CM 
[ CHOICE: Crystal. Amber. Onyx lap 
I phire, Emerald, Ruby, Mahogany. 
|i Enclose check or money order 


Santa'^ Chocotfat 



vic^m SANTA CLAUr 
tjt&^&i.- \ SANTA CLAUS ' 

A jpeeiolly-ielected assortment of truly fine light 
chocolates, actually moiled from Santo'i home. Be origine 
delicious Santo" * Chocolates lo the "fovoriles" on your li 
Christmas delivery, we promise! 

No. loos r . ib. box . . $2.89 

No. 1005 5 fb. box ..$4.95 






pressly to fill the need for the uno: 
yet practical and most appealing 4 
For his pocket or her purse, this 
high Swiss 7-jewel movement w | 
opens to stand like a clock — usefu 
desk or dresser. Bell alarm. Choio" 
light or dark dial. Postpaid, $2 5 
in gold plate, $16.24 in chrome. 



V^MeVHf GknUtmai. 

^*I:ards of wood 

■ (iends will exclaim over and 
lir these charming, novel CARDS 
-' tt|3D. Wafer-thin, flexible, made 
~'JM, Pine, Cedar and other ex- 
fcferained woods, 3£4"x424", print- 
appropriate designs and messages. 

~wi""- Send only $* for 6 (5 1 * 50 

;Hassorted beautiful cards with en- 
;r;£jnd illustrated folder. You'll want 
f.Her before Christmas! 
l RvRKS OF WOOD make attrac- 
pensive gifts. Made of the same 
satiny woods, gay with colored 
ind tree decorations. $1 for 4 
ent, with greeting cards, en- 
Qrder Now/ 


New York 

(Iter to your child 

\from Santa Ctaus! 








| the iurpnie and childith delight when your 
niece or nephew openv a real letter from 
letter hoi lour page*, lithly printed in four 
I fa mailed poitpoid in a three-color envelope 
U authentic "Santo Clrjos" postmark! Order one 
Ciiild on your I. it NOWI 



\ffc (?/bus*&#d 



\nazing! NEW 


ttives and Hollywood writ- _t 
I producers. Some homes 

pojaid anywhere in U. S. for only $16" 

SBSOnit! *'«! ft»m W.CF.DIFTZ INDUSTRlCDipt. M.1, 

3233 Obitmrtorr Rood, Cincinnati 8, Ohk 


MICHIGAN: Detroit, Winkelman's; Grand Rapids, 
Wurzburg's; Petaskey, Wei ling's; Pontiac, 
Arthur's; Lansing, Maurice's; Flint, The Vogue; 
Ann Arbor, Collins Shop; Jackson, Elaine Shop. 

MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, Buttrey's; St. Paul, 
Levine & Tanz; Rochester, Julius Esters; Fergus 
Falls, Norby Dept. Store. 

MISSISSIPPI: Jackson, R. E. Kennington. 

MISSOURI: St. Joseph, Einbender's. 

NEBRASKA: Alliance, Ale's; Fairbury, Smart 
Shop; Omaha, J. L. Brandeis Co.; Lincoln, 
Ben Simon. 

NEVADA: Elko, Beardsley's. 
NEW HAMPSHIRE: Manchester, Parisian. 
NEW JERSEY: Newark, Bamberger Co.; Ridge- 
wood, Jenny Banta; Paterson, Fashion Inc.; 
New Brunswick, House of Fashion; Atlantic City, 
Famous Shop. 

NEW MEXICO: Carlsbad, Ann's Shop; Clovis, 
Thelma's; Tucumcari, Frock & Bonnet Shop. 
NEW YORK: Amsterdam, Halzheimer & Shane; 
Niagara Falls, Jere's; Binghamton, Hills, McLean 
& Haskin; Buffalo, Win. Hengerer Co.; Rochester, 
Natl. Clothing Co.; Brooklyn, Frederick Loeser 
Co.; Utica, College Hall; Syracuse, Dey Bros.; 
Jamaica, L.I., B. Gertz Co.; New York, Plymouth 
Shop; Yonkers, Schillers. 

OKLAHOMA: Miami, Gordon's; Houston, Smart 
Shop; Duncan, Abbies; Oklahoma City, Marga- 

ret's; Tulsa, Clarks; Chickasha, Paulette Shop; 
Norman, Hoover's Fashion Shop; Lawton, Pari- 
sian; Bartlesville, Koppel's. 

OHIO; Hamilton, Denton's; E. Liverpool, Metz 
Fur Co.; Elyria, Fay Co.; Dayton, Rike Kumler; 
Cincinnati, Pogue Co.; Cleveland, May Co.; 
Toledo, Lam son Bros.; Youngstown, Livingstons; 
Akron, Madison's; Columbus, Madison's. 
PENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia, Strawbridge & 
Clothier; Johnstown, Penn Traffic; Pittsburgh, 

SO. CAROLINA: Columbia, Allan's. 
TENNESSEE: Memphis, Frances Ross Shops; Nash- 
ville, Chester's; Knoxville, George & Co. 
TEXAS: San Antonio, The Vogue; Corpus Christi, 
Buttrey's; Dallas, Phi I Upson's; Austin, Collegiate 
Shop; Abilene, Waddington's; Lubbock, Hackels; 
Amarilto, Hollywood Shop; Port Arthur, Myron's; 
Galveston, Model; Ft. Worth, Stripling's; El 
Paso, Glass Ready To Wear; Beaumont, Jay's; 
Odessa, Nash Tucker; Borger, Bent leys; Denton, 
Miss Hendley's Shop; McAllen, Ladies Supply 
Co.; Houston, Palais Royal. 
UTAH: Logan, Logan Sportswear. 
WASHINGTON: Seattle, Collins; Aberdeen, 
Worth's; Vancouver, Hadley's; Yakima, Nathan's; 
Spokane, Jacaue's; Olympia, Paulson's. 
WASHINGTON, D.C.: Jellepp. 
WISCONSIN: Madison, Yost's; Milwaukee, The 


Choose For Yourself! 

Designed by women to make your sewing easier, 
more comfortable — SEWHELPER gives you 
specially designed, extra convenient storage space 
for nil your sewing needs— in a beautiful cabinet 
you'll be proud to have in your living room. SEW- 
HELPER keeps all your sewing paraphernalia IN 
ONE PLACE anywhere in your house. 

Typical of the'eonvenience of SEWHELPER is 
the unique THREADSNIPS unit, holding 18 spools 
of thread under tension. With one hand you pull out 
thread to the desired length, snip it off in a single 
motion with the built-in THREADSNIPS. 

No other sewing cabinet at any price gives you 
all the conveniences of SEWHELPER- 

Hallmoon Pin Tray 
Scissors Compartment 
Three Button Trays 
Needle Cushion 
Knitting Needle Tray 
Spool Holders for Exlra 
Thread and Darning 

Two Roomy Compart- 
ments lor Mending or 

Yale Lock to Keep the 
Kiddies Out. 
Light-weight, with Dis- 
appear! ngleatherHan- 

Two Thimble Holders. 
12. Bamboo Design, Color- 
ful Exterior Panels. 

SewHelper is shipped postpaid anywhere in U.S. for on! 


Order direct from W. C. F. DIETZ INDUSTRIES, Dept. M-3 

3233.0 bservalory Road, Cincinnati 8, Ohio 

*Not Including thread, scissors, etc., shown to Illustrate SewHelper In uie. 

No. 3, teed Tea- 
1 2 % A ox. 

(Heavy tip-proo 
, chip- 

A Shoal of Sperm Whale Off Hawaii 

FOR YOUR OWN HOME, or as an 
unusually handsome gift try this HAND- 
COLORED facsimile of a rare, old 
whaling aquatint showing a colorful 
Pacific whaling scene. Matted and 
ready for framing, size 25x30 inches. 
Edition limited to 100 prints. Price $16. 
Shipped prepaid alt over U.S. 
Fine pictures are our specialty. 
Write us of your wants. 


785 Fifth Ave., New York 22, N. Y. 


Tel-Sec keeps pad and pencil at your finger tip» 
— in handy, rigid, pull-out drawer. Ideal for 
home, office, shop, store. All metal. Non- 
breakable. (Not plastic.) Beautiful enamel fin- 
ish matches phone. Installed instantly — simply 
snap into place. No more hunting for paper 
or pencii^-or writing on wall — uses ordinary 
pad and pencil. This is the original, ail metal 
Tel-Sec, with over 100,000 enthsusiastic usen. 
Order yours today! 

5x7 V2 oblong, $2.65; 5x6 oval and 5Vi round, 
$2.95; 5y 2 x9, $3.95. 

Extra refill pads, 20 for $1.00. No C.O.D.'t. 
Dealers invited. 


(Exclusive Nat't Distributor) 

6774 Taft Dept. H-ll Detroit 8, Mich. 


Trade J£ Mark 

The NEW, easy way ■ 
to Read, Write or 
"Breakfast" in bed comfort! 

• AT LAST, the perfect gift for that 
convalescing friend, or for anyone who 
enjoys lounging in bed. PROPETTE is so 
HANDY! It folds flat against headboard, 
out of the way when not in use . . . Just 
pull outward and it "props" you up in a 
jiffy, ready for complete relaxation. 

• Durably made of Masonite with beauti- 
ful Walnut grain finish. Adjustable height 
and slope, PROPETTE 
fits all beds. 

9 For an exclusive, highly 
appreciated gift ORDER 
NOW! Satisfaction guar- 
anteed. 24-hour shipment 


Dept. 7R 1250LokelandAve.*Cleveland7,O. 

_^ - - — ™ -— ^™«, Pat. Pend. ,=_«__._= 




(Add 25c 
West of Rockies) 

November, 1948 


OrtdiuUlualLf. yauA.1 


CLASSIC in Juilliard's 100% 
Wool Crepe. 

Exquisitely designed with new, 
softer lines and highly individ- 
ualized by a stunning 3-letter 
monogram in white seed pearls 
outlined in gold beads. 
Sizes 10-20. Smoke Gray, Black, Pine 
Green. $39.95. 

State size, color and 3-letter monogram 
underlining surname for large middle 
initial. Send check or money order. No 
returns. In California, add 3% for tax. 
Delivery in three weeks. 

152 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

' Jla*td - e>u#e£ IN 




• New! Stylish! Full Lenglh Slraps! 

• Sizes For Mother and Daughter. 

$ 9 65 f 

iT ih«7 ^""um*. ™«^d LABGE SIZE 

* boqL Lot?* ba^ Lt 8 * 10' i fllhiilKHtdL . 

.moll bo, L> SVi.TH Child's 



S2.00 Deposit on COJ). Orders 

Soutlwiest's LcadinU Mail Order House 
Box 275. Dept. 1189 San Antonio 6, Texas 

bwulllully irfl«J ■ 


You can solve the "forgotten message" with a family bulletin 
board, which can double as a grocery list reminder, household 
duties list, and general catch-all for information around home. 
If you grow bored with the daily menus you prepare, keep a 
suggestion list for the members of your family ... if anyone 
says "Why don't we ever have creamed onions anymore?" jot 
it down for the next meal, or next shopping list. 

Use the bulletin board to remind everyone of the purpose 
of your budget. You're saving for a car . . . cut out a picture 
of the one you're aiming for and keep it at the top of every- 
body's mind by giving it prominent space on the board. 

The children can rate space with good report cards, birthday 
greetings and latest snapshots. 


For your scissors, pins, needles, tape measure, thimble, snaps, 
hooks and eyes, silk and cotton spools of thread, buy a fishing 
tackle box with a removable tray inside and convert it into a 
pretty sewing box. Paint it in a pastel shade to blend with the 
prevailing color scheme. 

S C E N Tinei by D U N H I L L 

A lovely gift set by MARY DUNHILL, The 
famous SCENTinef perfume container which 
guards the perfume in your purse, and a 
matching funnel for filling. The SCENTinel, 
a metal encased glass bottle, with a ground 

glass leakproof stopper . . . lets no precious 
rop escape . . . can't get # out of order. 
Personalized with 2 or 3 initials engraved 
•without charge. 

SCENTinel and Funnel: 

Gold tone metal S 3.50 no tax 

Sterling Silver SI 1.40 incl. tax 

Individual SCENTinel: 

Cold tone metal S 2. SO no tax 

Sterling Silver S 9.00 incl tax 

Please print initials. No COD's, please 

All items postpaid and Gift Boxed. 


Dept. E Box 2T8 Bronxville, N. Y. 


be happy with 


Less than one 
ounce for round- 
the-clock comfort 
under your casual 
and formal 


Yellow or 

Blue Sheer 



Black or Nude 




Black or White 

Sheer Lace and 

Bow Trim 


Send hip measurements. We prepay 
orders 1st Class Mail. No C.O.D. Send 
check with order. 





An amazingly accurate scale model revved up— 
moving forward and reverse automatically in the 
same motions as the prototype — advancing slowly 
in each forward movement. $2.00 Postpaid 


By Britain Prom Britain 
The famous line of standard size — correctly colored — moveable arm figures- 
collectors' items. 


French Cuirassaires — with their shin- 
ing helmets and plumage — mounted 
— 5 pc. set — $2.00 

Arabs on Horses — a strikingly col- 
orful set^-on the gallop — with up- 
raised rifles — 5 pc. set — $2.00 

U. S. Marines in blue uniform — 

marching at slope arms with officer — 

8 pc. set — $2.00 

West Point Cadets — summer dress — 

8 pc. set — $2.00 

The famous French Foreign Legion — 

in full kit with mounted officer — 7 

pc. set — $2.00 

Each set is lifelike in reproduction 

1. Farmyard set — stable boy - calf - pig, collie, cow and sheep — 7 pieces — $1.50 

2. Home Farm Set — farmer and wife - sheep - horse, lambs and piglets — 9 pieces — $1.75 

3. Large Form Set — stable lad, dog, large and small trees, shire horse, cart horse, fool, 
colt, light horse — 10 ps. set — $3.00 

A complete list of soldiers, farm, circus and zoo fig- 
ures will be sent on receipt of 7 0c in stamps or com. 


879 Eighth Avenue 
New York 19, N. Y. 

fjeatt JH.04U \ 
Star Clrrtsttj 


of perfume and toilet water by I 

Name hand painted in gold. 1 

chest can be used for jewelry 

knacks. Chest in Red, Gray, Gree 


4"x2^". 3.50 plus 55i 


gift for purse or dressing table. ClI 
velvet lined. Inside fitted witithii 
needles, pins, hooks and eyes, 2 spoil 
2J4" diameter. 

From the Adele Jewelry Counter 


smoking convenience, or for non-sm I 
pill box. Sensational gift idea! G fi 
name hand engraved. 2"x2". 6.9 m 


crepe half slip, beautifully scallopetfll 
inch cream net edging. Bias cut; ela; 1 
band. Sizes 24 to 30. Pink, white ' 
Name embroidered in any color. 



Send Check or Money Order 

(Residents of California, please at 

sales tax, 3% if in Los Angele 



251 So. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hil < 


%®CA -%&jCl %*&Jl\HUA%V. ©4: S©i ttwfrfcW 









Sizes I0-2i 
Attractively P 



Add the Midas touch to your leisure with Janice Wallace's fabulous two-piece 
pajamas impregnated with 24-karat CHAN GOLD*, flexible as the Ceianese 
rayon jersey itself, guaranteed washable. Gold glitters in four rows at neck, 
two rows at one wrist. Lavish trousers swirl 55" around each slender ankle. 

Joseph Magnin, San Francisco 

Wallace & Wallace, Berkeley, California 

May Co., Los Angeles 

The Blum Store, Philadelphia 

Nat Lewis, New York 

Battlestein's, Houston 

Sanger Bros., Dallas 
Bon Marche, Seattle 
Meier- Frank, Portland 
Harzfeld's, Kansas City 
Himmelhoch's, Detroit 
Korrick's, Phoenix 

Popular Dry Goods, El Paso 

Filene's, Boston 

B. M. Behrends Co., Juneau, Alaska 

Burdine's, Miami, Florida 

Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh 

Gus Blass, Little Rock, Arkansas 

The Emporium, Jackson, Miss. 
Halle Bros., Cleveland 
John Shillito Co., Cincinnati 
Herpolsheimer, Grand Rapids 
J. L. Brandeis, Omaha 
Flshman's, Fort Wayne, Indiana 

G I 







C | 

I V I N G 

December i 9 48 

''■',<X.-r. • 





? « 

^ .-•■ ' ' 



1 *§* 

Coast-wise and fashion-free ! Dan River's deep -ocean- tone Cotton 

California does an about-face this year— picks dark, luminous effect} 
for your tropical Wintering. Picks Dan River's Cotton Taffeta in 

colors fast to high-noon sun and briny deep alike. Sanforized*, 
keeps its fit ever true to you. Dan River Mills, Inc. 

Swim suit by Cole of California. Sizes: small, medium, large. 
Green, burgundy, plum. About $15 at Bonwit Teller, Philadelphia; 
Carson, Pirie Scott & Co., Chicago 

* Fabric shrinkage not more than \ c t 


riff fi 

vtC (jfaltOK presents "Cantata," his light-as-a-song instep 
strap, open toe Featherwedge. Soft suede in black, navy, brown, 
gray, copper, kelly green. Calf in red. Sizes 4 to 9, $9.95 MAIL ORDERS 

Buff urns' 


Add 2V4X Slate Sales Tax 

THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948 

U/ (^e^aT^k^ /^mt^Ke4x/ 





Say goodbye to costly and uncomfortable girdles 

and garter belts! Keep your stockings up 

and expenses down with Suspants . . . practically 

t a wardrobe all by itself. Wear it as a regular undie 

too, without garters, on stockingless occasions. 

There's a Suspants style for almost every 

gure in a fabric and color that's just to your liking. 

Run proof rayon — $-1 .50 

Luxurious Nylon —$1.98 

Double Woven Rayon — $1.98 

Knit with Latonf — $1 .98 

Also in a fussy feminine lace trimmed rayon brief — $1.50 





-*i -•i **i, 

•»** ^**S* ^*»i* 

BLUE SWAN MILLS, Division of McKay Products Corp. 

f Reg. U.S. Pal Off. 
350 Fifth Avenue, New York 1, N. Y. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948 


U/V 7W£ COVER: Blaz- 
ing while . . . for the 
resort horizon now, for 
summer drama later. Lou- 
ella Ballerina uses Sea 
breeze, a Seagloiv fabric, 
for the pert little page boy 
jacket, with two-tune Hart 
tie oj Coutoure silk shan- 
tung, about $20, and man 
tailored shorts, about $12. 
And the extremely dra 
made pleasure ensemble, 
slacks with scarf tie, and 
picturesque long tunic coat 
lined in matching silk 
shantung, (not shown), 
about $69. Both in sizes 
10-16, at J. W. Robinson, 
Los Angeles; J. L. Hud- 
son, Detroit; Kaujmann's, 
Pittsburgh. Stylemasler 
shoes. Wreath of an- 
therium and golden hibis- 
cus by Biltmore Florists. 



MANAGING EDITOR Donald A. Carlson 

FASHION DIRECTOR...- _ Sally Dickason 

FASHION EDITOR. Virginia Scallon 

MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlaul 

FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones, 

Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Frances Anderson, Alice Carey, 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

ART _ Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean, 

Ann Harris, Jane Christionsen 



FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 





California fashions 

What Do You See? 21 

There's A Bright Day Coming 22 

Wonder-Wear For Resort Or Patio 24 

Sunshiners For Your Resort Wardrobe 28 

Bare Facts 30 

California Classics 32 

For Country Club or City Living 34 

Two-Piecers 36 

For Children 42 

Cruise Whites 44 

Design Ideas From The Studio To You 46 

New Suit For The New Year 53 

What To Wear In California In December 54 

California features 

Of Interest In California In December 18 

The Story Of The Famous Farmers Market 38 

l.oretta Young Sews As She Reaps 45 

California living 

A House With A View For California Living 48 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown » 50 

THE CALIFORN1AN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager. 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 Q'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & 
Associates. 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; 
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con- 
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulation. Entered a» 
second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under 
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1948 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Repro- 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless sperificallv authorized. 



I N 






superbly fulfills the requirements of sub- 
tle line and drama which distinguish 
this classic suit by 

A D E L E 

O F 


Imported by Cohama,this luxurious, im- 
peccable gabardine again asserts its 
leadership as the choice of foremost 
designers and smart women-in America 
and abroad. In the"OneWorld"of Fash- 
ion,one name isoutstanding-Cohama.* 




deftly manipulates light 

and sbadoiv into a smart 

traveler -of Salyna cloth 

with its own cotton pique 

stole. Navy with white, toast 

with beige, pewter with 

light grey. Sizes 10 to 18. 

Casual Colony 

Des Moines 6, 

HE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1941 


PERFECT lil! tMSTlMEII . . . 


you'll be a pretty show-off like this in a one-piece dress of 
wonderfully sophisticated rayon foulard, in colors to wear under furs now or 

with summer accessories later. Pockets concealed beneath impressed pleats! 


Authentic design by Jery Grinel. 

In green, ginger, and ming blue; sizes 10-16. $30 

Time to think of the larger woman . . . for her. a dream gown of 
finest rayon satin, beautifully cut. rich with Alencon-type lace 
on both front and back bodice. Sizes 38-48. about $15. 

\^ulLt*iiu LA 

At these and other fine stores: 
L. Bamberger & Co., Newark 
Halle Bros., Cleveland 
C. Crawford Hollidge, Ltd., Boston 
Marshall Field & Company, Chicago 
The May Co., Los Angeles 
Montaldo's stores 
Sakowitz Bros., Houston 
Stix, Baer & Fuller Co.. St. Loui* 


i 1 7 East Pico Boulevard. Los Angeles 


19 4 8 


Km as Uifts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

YARN DOG: This thoroughly housebroken pel, 
in yarn, gazes out at you from a blonde wooden 
frame. Dog is set in relief. Wonderful for den 
or children's room. $5.00, postpaid. 

Glass for highballs, beer. In the shape of a 
corset-encased torso, and well-developed, too. 
Also use for flowers, plants. Colors: green, yel- 
low, pink, blue. $1.25 postpaid. Matching ceramic 
jigger holds 1-oz. in bust: a double jigger in 
base. $1.00, postpaid. 

MINIATURE CHAFING DISH: Something to grace 
the dinner table of any home-proud hostess. An 
adorable miniature chafing dish of solid copper 
and brass. Complete in every detail, including 
a heating unit that burns alcohol. Makes a 
stunning centerpiece. $3.95 postpaid. 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. fResi- 
dents of California, please add 2'/i% soles tax.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift iems. 





" : 16 


' -. 
I «■• 


'■f- " 


v"/. 1 y 



is^l. .ja. 

ANKLE-HI . . . another of the new and 
comfortable hose made by Willys of Holly- 
wood, famous designer for the motion picture 
and theatrical world. This nylon anklet sock, 
the sheerest made, is of 20-denier DuPont 
nylon, with a patented rib top . . . perfect for 
active or spectator sportswear and lounging, 
Seven delicious flavors: chocolate, raspberry, 
cherry, lemon, orange, lime and blueberry. 
Sizes 8 to 11, just $1 at Strawbridge & 
Clothier, Philadelphia; May Company Wil- 
shire, Los Angeles; Sage & Allen, Hartford. 
Or write Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. High- 
land, Hollywood 38, Calif. 

SEE BETTER . . . says this gift. With this 
beautiful new type of magnifying glass, you 
can give friends "seeing comfort" for years to 
come . . . you can read newspaper print a 
column at a time, for the 3 1 4" lens provides 
a large, sharp field of vision. Longview magni- 
fies 1 x /« times, folds into a handsome plastic 
handle. You'll be proud to give, or own, a 
Longview. Packed in a gift box, $6.50 postpaid. 
If not completely satisfied after 10-day trial, 
money will be refunded. Edroy Products Co.. 
Dept. A, 480 Lexington Ave.. New York 17, 
New York. 

PURE GOLD ... are the petals that whirl 
and swirl with every motion of the bottle 
in this exhilarating perfume, so appropriately 
named White Christmas. It is the breath of 
fresh-fallen snow, heightened by the magic 
of nature's woodland. This delicious scent for 
the season's glamor touch you'll want for 
yourself, and for your friends. White Christ- 
mas Perfume is S7.80 the full ounce, includ- 
ing the excise lax, 2>4% sales tax in Cali- 
fornia. Order now for the holidays, from The 
Margorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street. Los 
Angeles 15, Calif. 

STOP THAT PEEKING . . . here's the 
new No-Peek-O, the smart streamlined 
aluminum set that prevents peeking in gin 
rummy and other card games. It keeps the 
cards in neat order, and the cleverly designed 
felt base protects your table and prevents 
slipping. You'll want several for yourself and 
for unusual gifts. They're attractively pack- 
aged and available in beautiful shades of blue, 
green or red. Postpaid, only $1.00. Sorry, no 
C.O.D.'s. Order direct from the Balas Manu- 
facturing Company, 3804 Woodland Ave., 
Cleveland 15, Ohio. 

THREAD-A MATIC . . . this new automatic 
threader, of durable plastic with precision 
mechanism, makes it possible to thread needles 
with one finger! Easy for children arid adults, 
it threads needles from 3 to 9, thread from 36 
to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerized. 
To simplify your sewing, just $2.95 postage 
prepaid. Add 2 l / 2 % sales tax in California, 
3% in Los Angeles. Send your orders to 
Fred L. Seymour Co.. Box 1176. Beverly 
Hills, Calif. 




rRESS ... the popular Enchant-Tress 
(scarf-hood), now also for the little miss. 
Makes adorable mother and daughter set, at- 
Iractive and ever-so-practical. Mother's, in 
navy, hunter green, white, gray, red, royal, 
telly, brown or black wool worsted jersey, 
(3.95. (Also in metallic fabrics for dressy 
wear). Daughter's, with gay felt trim on 
wool jersey, in red, royal, green, white or 
powder, 82.95. At leading department stores 
everywhere, or write California Sportlets, 860 
S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14, Calif. 


feet companion for little boys and girls . . . 
grown-ups like this adorable horse, too, for 
den, bar and bedroom . . . the grandest 
Christmas present, possible. 14" long, 10 Yi" 
tall, of the finest quality suede, with brilliant 
grained eyes. The insides are soft cotton — 
no wires or hard pieces to harm the little 
ones. Whiskbroom brushing keeps him clean. 
[n tan suede with bright trimmings, Suede- 
biscuit is 85.00, postage prepaid. Add 2'/2% 
sales tax for Californians, and order from 
Suedecraft Novelties, Dept. VS, Box #7158, 
Los Angeles 37, Calif. 

TIDY TOES . . . Tabbies present this latest 
version of the California foot mittens. Styled 
for indoor lounging, dorm, patio and pool, 
this adorable set features a new two-button 
back closing. For comfort and foot glamour. 
Tabbies are exciting Christmas news. Soft 
satin in black, white or pink; and quilted 
chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. Sizes 
S-M-L. Send your check or money order for 
$3.95 (add 10c tax in California, 12c in Los 
Angeles)' to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South 
Main, Los Angeles 15, Calif. 


most delicious candy you've tasted, made by 
IClifford Durston, for twenty-six years a fa- 
Imous Los Angeles candy maker. You'll love 
[the rich chocolate creams and the crisp 
•crunchy nut-filled delights. This variety pack 
lincludes pecan nut, vanilla and rum creams; 
nougats and almond chips; and mint dips, 
|toffee clusters, chewy caramels. This hand- 
dipped homemade candy is sold direct from 
Durston's, Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif., and 
|is yours for just 81.50 the pound, or 82.75 
for two pounds, postage paid. 

IT'S A RAZOR . . . this ingenious purse- 
size blade and base, simulated to look like 
a fountain pen. For milady's purse, or the 
gentleman's pocket, this compact gold-plated 
shaving unit unscrews and the razor head 
slides into the base. Five blades are in- 
cluded, and the unit uses Schick or Ardel 
j blades. Beautifullv gift-boxed and wrapped, 
jwith gift card included. 82.50, including par- 
,cel post and insurance. Order for yourself 
land your friends, from Ireenor Novelties, P.O. 
' Box 1172, Grand Central Station, New York 
17, New York. 







K.mas vifts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot con become o 
champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes with 
complete directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's 
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over any 
boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid. 

MILK SET: Frisky ceramic cow-pitcher. Matching 
mug comes with barnyard pictures. Pitcher and 
mug, boxed, for $3.95, postpaid. 

TINY TEPS: Step up for the youngsters, and very 
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint- 
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped 
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c for post- 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. 'Resi- 
dent', of California, pf ease add 2'/j% soles fax.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 



December. 1948 


HOLLYWOOD'S newest rave at a price made to 
order for vou. Harold's drawstring pouch bag 
and stunning anklet sandals are made in Hollywood of 
beautifully marked genuine unborn calfskin . . _ . 
silken smooth and rich as fur. The Pinto bag is 
roomy and has a genuine leather drawstring. The 
petite Pinto sandals are glamour-styled too, with 
flattering ankle straps and gold buckles. Sizes: "h l /i to 
9. Fit guaranteed. Bag or sandals can be bought 

C. O. D. 



West Branch, Hollywood 46, California. 
Please send the following subject to immediate 
refund if I am not completely satisfied. 



@ $6.95 SIZE 

Check, money order or postal note enclosed 

I will pay the postman full price, plus postage 

and C.O.D. charges 

Name _ _ 





FROM 11:30 


1 block west of 
Coldwoter Canyon 

1 Block north of Wilshire 

In The January Issue 



• Sun Country Fashions 

• California Living 

• Wonderful Recipes 

Use the coupon attached to this copy! 

Make someone's Christmas a happy 
one with a gift subscription to 


m*- 1 

POP GOES THE . . . party! And here'* 
the modern touch for that old-fashioned fu 
vorite. This handsome aluminum Electric Con 
Popper makes the popping more fun, whethei 
it's for a party or for the family circle 
Through its clear glass oven-proof turret yoi 
can see the corn pop and fill the bowl. Full 
automatic, for AC or DC current, $9.95. Hun 
dreds of others in gift catalog CM3. Free 
Send your orders to Hammacher Schlemmer 
145 East 57th Street. New York 22, Nev. 


must on her Christmas list from Catalina 
Island. The slipper that has poise . . . made 
of tufted chenille. It is comfortable, durable, 
noiseless . . . the only slipper of its kind 
that is washable. Repeated washings, fluffing 
the chenille yarn, will actually improve its- 
appearance ! This slipper is exciting Christ 
mas news at just $3.75. Available in white, 
blue, gold, cherry, aqua. Please add 15c post 
age. 2 l / 2 % tax (California only). Sizes 3-9 
Send your order to Catalina Casuals. Bm 
325, Avalon, Catalina Island, California. 


formal entertaining, after-skiing, dancing, re 
sort life, or just relaxing. These custom 
made clothes are exclusive designs, made to 
measure, featuring fine workmanship and best 
materials. The white cotton broadcloth blouse, 
to be worn on or off-the-shoulder, has beau 
tiful eyelet embroidery. Send bust measure. 
$14.75 includes tax. The full circular skirt U 
rayon gabardine with gay peasant trim. Send 
color preference — aqua blue, black or red- 
waist measurement and desired length. $17.75 
includes tax. Add 25c postage. Victoria Royce. 
1012 deYoung Bldg., San Francisco, Calif 

ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth 
A summery reminder that makes a perfect 
Christmas gift is this gay table cloth . . . 
just throw it 'round the pole and zip it up! 
Hand-printed in attractive basket weave nl 
mercerized cotton, richly colored in red and 
white; blue and white; or green and white 
It fits any garden table, round or square 
lust $4.95, postage prepaid. Californians add 
2'/£% sales tax. Matching ready-hemmed nap 
kins, 18" wide, just 40c each. Send your or 
ders to The Margorita Shop. 1018 South Main 
St.. Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

BEAU CATCHER ... is Phil SockettV 
provocative belt for the New Year. I 1 //' wide, 
in 24-karat gold or silver leather, it is de 
signed for day-time and date-time ... the 
bow is a novel accent between blouse and 
skirt, and a smart accessory on basic dresses 
and knitwear, too. Gold or silver, sizes 24 
to 32. It's just $2.95 at your favorite store, 
or write Phil Sockett Mfg. Co., Est. 1925. 
1240 S. Mnin St.. I.os Angeles 15. Calif. 



r— rmtfis 

SHADOW BOXES ... of California red- 
wood. You'll want to be the interior decorator 
.vith these lovely shadow boxes, the answer 
:o "where to keep it." For knick-knacks, 
Dhotos, plants, perfumes, miniatures, toys, 
spices. 12" square, 3V2" deep. Leave them 
natural, paint or stain any color. Set of two 
interlocked boxes, $1.75; two sets, $3.25. 
Postage paid, add 2]/ 2 % sales tax in Cali- 
fornia, 3% in Los Angeles. Fred L. Seymour 
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills. Calif. 

THE MASQUE ... cuff links, studs, scarf 
bolder. Ingeniously designed to accessorize, 
these beautiful ceramic masques are hand- 
crafted into studs and cuff links for your 
blouse; and a clever snap-on kid scarf holder 
that holds your scarves firmly without tear- 
ing or knotting. The masques, about 1" high. 
In your choice of gold or silver. Studs, set 
of three, $2.50; cuff links, pair, $1.95; scarf 
holder, $1.95. Gift-boxed. (Luxury tax in- 
cluded. Add 2^2% sales tax in California, 3% 
in Los Angeles). Evelyn Lee Bennett, Dept. 
405. 1215 S. Norton, Los Angeles 6, Calif. 

TOWLKAPE . . . another California original, 
this "three-in-one" combination. Huge terry- 
cloth towel (40"x72")with drawstrings ... for 
use as towel, cape, or skirt. Ideal for Christ- 
mas — for bath and beach, lounging around 
patio and pool, it's a pre-summer delight. With 
diagonal stripes (shown), tropical fish, or 
California pool scene, on white or gold back- 
grounds. Pre-laundered, fast color. Towel with- 
out drawstrings (menfolks love it, too), $4.95 
plus 2y 2 % sales tax in California, 3% in Los 
Angeles. Towlkape, $5.95 plus tax. Send check 
or money order to Margorita Shop, 1018 South 
Main Street, Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

DOG LEASH BELT . . . latest innovation 
Ion the popular Dog Leash is this ingenious- 
belt by Film Star Creations, with a ball point 
(fountain pen — it works! Adjustable suede bell. 
Sturdy enough for coats, wonderful on skirts 
land dresses ... for every schoolgirl and 
sportswear outfit. Black, brown, red, green, 
cocoa, navy; sizes 24 to 36, just $3.95. Please 
add 2'/2% sales tax in California. Sold ex- 
clusively by Buffums', Pine Avenue and 
Broadway, Long Beach 2, Calif. 

SU-Z BABY GIRDLE . . . smoothest fitting, 
most comfy panty-girdle ever. 100% power- 
net nylon, sewed with nylon thread through- 
out, fitted according to weight. Fast drying 
(4 hours) ; all elastic nylon garters detach 
for wear with slacks; special designing stops 
rolling and sliding. Smooth hips and thighs, 
keep tummy controlled, order Baby Girdle 
. . . fits like second skin, won't cause per- 
spiration. Step-in or pantie style. (Photoed 
by Lee Angle). Send measurements of your 
waist, tummy, thigh and overall weight to 
Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon Ave., Los Angeles 43. 
Calif. In white, postpaid, just $10.95. 

December, 1948 


1 / / 


these attractive Dor-File racks are 

"Musts" for every home! 

The Dor-File spice racks have dozens of uses — 
in kitchen cupboards, linen cabinets, bathrooms, 
workshops. Keeps small articles handy, saves 
space, saves time — easily attached to any door 
or wall. 1 2'/ 2 in. long, 2'/ 2 in. high, 1 y 2 in. 
deep. Only 79c each. Special gift package of 
3 for $2.29 I 

The Dor-File cleanser rack is a brand-new, much 
needed item for every home. Ideal for kitchen, 
laundry, bathroom. Holds cleansers, washing 
powders, soaps, steel wool. It has a dishcloth 
bar — handy and for quick drying. lO 1 /^ in. long. 
4 in. high, 5 in. deep — ample room for every, 
thing. Only $1.49. 

The Dor-File lid rack puts your doors to work, 
too — in your kitchen, laundry, broom closet, 
linen closet. It easily holds your pot lids, pie 
tins and other kitchen flatware, polishes, waxes, 
soaps, bleaches, starch — within easy reach. Elimi- 
nates cabinet clutter. 11% in. long, 5 in. high, 
4 in. deep. A bargain in efficiency for $1.49 

Order them individually +, 

or a complete set for . . . $3.7/ 

For delivery in California add 2'/i% sales tax. 


BOX 1176 


Fabric tells the fashion story . . . 

based on the staunch honesty of 

Westbrooke Sanforized Broadcloth, the quaint romance 

of Provincial stripes, charmingly handled by Royal of California. 

At better stores in black or beige, sizes 10 to 18. Or write 

Koval of California, Los Angeles 14 

N . rluegelman & co., inc. 

1412 Broadway • New York 18, New York 



Exquisite negligee whittles your waist with a fitted Alencon lace corselet above lavish, full skirt. Graceful capelet sleeves 
and jewelled buttons add a luxury touch . . . Plunging neckline and cocktail hemline on matching gown are generously 
appliqued with hand-cut Alencon lace . . . Gloriana crepe-back satin in Bridal White, Ice Blue, Petal Pink, Midnight Black. 
32-40 About $35.00 at finer stores 


Xs&lfwia. yjitiftnj 

December, 1948 


WIN, PLACE aild SHOW! . . .spectacular spectator sports 
trio in Sno-Silk shantung; simple jacket with triple flap button pockets $17.95 

Slim skirt that repeats the button pocket motif 14.95 

White blouse repeating the color of the suit 10.95 


Authentic design by Jery Grinel, in kelly, 

royal, luggage, gold, white, gray, skipper blue, red; sizes 10-16. 




• jshion-wise Gaines coat and suit 
relief on page 52 are available at 
, | owing stores: 

illiRNIA: Fresno, Betty Shop; North 
ll\|>od, Claudia's; Redding, Breslauer's 
)tHg Co.; Sacramento, La Verne Shop; 
|ir|, Smart Shop; San Diego, Wen- 
mjSan Francisco, K. E. C. Fashions. 

ILlADO: Boulder, Brooks-Fauber; Colo- 

rado Springs, Wood, Meyers; Delta, Ap- 
parel Shop; Denver, Hamilton Fur; Long- 
mont, Elda's Fashions. 

IOWA: Marshalltown, Ellis Company; New- 
ton, Helma Cole's; Shenandoah, Ladies 
Apparel; Waterloo, Wolf's. 
MICHIGAN: Mt. Pleasant, Marianne's Fash- 
ion Center. 

NEBRASKA: Fremont, Milady's; Omaha, 
Topp & Donahoo. 

NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Dorothy's 
Style Shop. 

OREGON: Salem, M. B. Gilmore. 

SOUTH DAKOTA: Watertown. The Fashion. 

TEXAS: Baytown, Irene's. 

UTAH: Ogden, Brittain's. 

WYOMING: Casper, Stuart's Shop. 


. tns/f/ve/ Accurate.' New! 
MHTJMIDIAL combines in one 
weight attractive case a standard 
tonometer and a novel, accurate 

ve Humidity Indicator. This in- 
i sive instrument serves as visual 

n regulating humidity, insures 
a: num comfort and better health, 
I! i against mold and mildew. An 
fa tant aid in weather forecasting. 
re it for your home and for your 

Just $1.98 postpaid 

K ;onnecKcut Avo., N. W. Washington 6: D.C. 

Louise Salinger 
I Schools of Dress Designing 


Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting, 
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching. 
Modeling. Day and Evening Clas&es. 
Catalogue B. 

Maiden La. & 
Kearny St. 

San Francisco. 


Do. 28059 

Wood & Oliver 



Atlantic 3855 

Shi!; shoes quickly, removes 
tm.ges, soil or slush. Cleans 
we' shoes and bags. 9/2"x 
6" 4" cabinets of solid 
wa it, maple or ivory finish, 
HI 15 voll A.C.Motorguar- 
on! d for one year, 8"sheep- 
tki .buffer, satisfied owners 
In |iry state. 

.Vc lar ge for shipments east 
of ckies or west of Alleghe- 
tiitpther areas add $1J15. 


i'nchesler Machine Co. 

Bench Model $21.50 


. . . when you use this newly designed Prac-T-Rack. Holds 
six skirts at "a time, yet one can be removed without disturbing 
the others. Another useful feature — the rack hangs flat against 
door or wall conserving precious closet space. Smoothly 
finished in vellow, pink, green, or blue pastels. 

An Ideal And Different Gift 

Each $3.95 
Add 25c for Postage 

Sold in 48 states and 
all over the world. 

PRAC-T-RACK • stillwater 59, new jersey 



— It's new! It's useful! It's ornamen- 
with pockets, slips on like a glove. 
No more searching in glove compart- 
ment for sun-glasses, roadmaps, note- 
book, comb, etc. Even has mirror and 
zippered purse for extra parking 
coins. Handsomely bound leatherette, 
in blue, maroon or tan. Single cover 
$3.00, Pair _ $5.50 postpaid. State 
length and width of your visor, color 
wanted, make of car. Order early! 



1524 N. E. 128TH AVENUE 


spinning HUj££ls 

An attractive ornament for your home and 
an interesting gift. This miniature spin- 
ning wheel stands 15" high with a 5 1 /-;" 
wheel. Expertly handmade from choice 

It costs only $12.50 Postpaid. 
No C.O.D.'s, please. 


7y2 Maple Ave. Glen Rock, IN. J. 


Newest cleverest trick in flower arrangements. Simply 
swing Adapto's arm supports across vase top and it's 
ready for use. Fits vase lops 3 to 6 inches across. For 
a few blooms or many. Orders shipped same day. No 
C.O.D.'s, please. Q n | y JJ QQ 

Mail orders with remittance to Postpaid 

RETKO PRODUCTS, Dept. E, Box 102, Maplewood, N. J. 


Adapto Flower 
gives poise to your 




miniature flower prints. Published 
1825-32. All subjects different. 
Handsomely framed in black & 
gold, antique gold, or maple. 
Size 4"x4£4" approx. 

PAIR S7.85 ppd. 

The perfect answer for Christmas, 
•wedding presents, bridge prizes, 

KENNEDY & CO. (, E 8 S 7 T J 785 FIFTH AVE.. NEW YORK 22. N. Y. 


Gourmets insist on it, good recipes require 
it — freshly ground pepper. These attractive 
mills do the job for you, and so econom- 
ically; each one is turned from o block of 
hardwood and is nicely finished. Get several 
for gifts ond at least two for yourself — 
one for dining and one for cooking. Stat* 
your choice. The economical price, $1 .60 
each, postpaid, includes a filling of pepper- 
corns. Additional peppercorns 3 oz for 50c. 

No C.O.D.'s. 

/Zayden, Ballte 

Box 1162, Oklahoma City 1, Oklahoma 


The Gerwood "MAGiC" Brush has an at- 
tractive. Natural Finish, Hardwood Bock 
with Revolutionary Sponge Rubber Pad (Re- 
placeable) and (Washable). The S I i test Ac- 
tion, picks up Hairs, Dust, Lint, Threads 
instantly from any Fabric — Home and Car 
Upholstery — Velvet, Suede, Felt, etc., LIKE 





Box 332, Salem, Oregon. No C.O.D.'s, 

please. Postpaid. Satisfaction G no ran teed. 

This exquisite shadow showcase for 
earrings is entirely handmade. Each 
design is an original, created for 
those who appreciate the smartest 
in tin. The case holds 12 pairs of her 
pet ear ornaments on velvet shelves, 
protected by a glass front. It stands 
on the dresser or hangs on the wall. 
Send orders for Christmas gifts. 
(Special shelves to hold earrings for 
pierced ears, 51 extra). 

$10. No C.O.D.'i, please 


Box 226 Downey, Calif. 

December, 1948 

200 WAYS 


Ideas galore for a tired wardrobe. New 80 
page book with 250 graphic illustrations. 
Pretty, practical remodeling tricks for be- 
ginner and expert. A "must" if you sew. 
Makes a fashtonwise useful gift. 

tend $1.00 Prepaid (add 3c tax Calif.) 




Tel-Sec keeps pad and pencil at your finger tips 
— in hondy, rigid, pull-out drawer. Ideal for 
home, office, shop, store. All metal. Non- 
breakable. (Not plastic.) Beautiful enamel fin- 
ish matches phone. Installed instantly — simply 
map into place. No more hunting for paper 
•nx pencil — or writing on wall — uses ordinary 
pad and pencil. This is the original, all metal 
Tel-Sec, with over 100,000 enthsusiastic users. 
Order yours today) 
Sx7V 2 oblong, $2.65; 5x6 oval and 5'/ 3 round, 
$2.»5, 5V 2 x9, $3.95. 

Extra refill pads, 20 for $1.00. No C.O.D.'s. 
Dealers invited. 


(Exclusive Nat'l Distributor) 

±774 Taft Dept. H-11 Detroit 8, Mich. 



«San.ta'& Ckocalt'ate^ 


tfctect J/ua*n 


A ipeciolly-selecled oiwrtment of truly fine light ond dark 
dsot olot.-v, actually moiled from Santa') home. Be original! ' ■■■mi 
deiicioui Santa i Chotolotei to the "fovoritei" on your list. Pre- 
Cnrntmai delivery, we promiie) 

No. 1003 J'A lb. box . . $2.89 

No. KXK 5 lb. box $4.95 




LIVESTOCK SHOW— Until December 
2 in Los Angeles at Union Stockyards. 
Rodeo, too. 

ber 31 along famous Hollywood Boule- 
vard, with Santa Claus and movie stars 
parading every night. 

LAS POSADAS — Mexican players of 
Padua hills re-enact "Las Posadas," 
drama of Christmas eve, throughout 
December at hillside theatre near Clare- 

during December in Glendale, Beverly 
Hills, Orange County, Manhattan Beach 
and many other California communities. 

ART EXHIBITS— Until January 22 at 
Los Angeles County Art Institute, fea- 
turing oil paintings, water colors, sculp- 
ture and commercial art. 

tively set for December 11 in Pasadena's 
Rose Bowl between outstanding junior 
college teams, sponsored by Pasadena 
Junior Chamber of Commerce. 

FOOTBALL— Notre Dame vs Southern 
California December 4 in Los Angeles 
Coliseum. Professional: Los Angeles 
Dons vs San Francisco '49ers December 
5 in Los Angeles Coliseum. 

(Continued on page 19) 


cut ideal GknAAintoA. a^t 


iPfea !5c to* n CaBI.J 


0pens7"j" x 7Vz" 

Send" orders to 

the (leSpcdlvi 

15'/ 2 ' 


Chriitmai time will 1 
years if you give tl 
usual electric 
Suitable for 
summer home 
pus room, f 
kitchen. Choict 
meral colors: 
Blue, Red, 
or Black. In 
less Steel $12. 
Traditional C 
$18.50. Postpi; 
year guarantee' 


Elegant combina- 
tion lamp - clock. 
Circle lighted 
opal glaas dial. 
Mahogany, Wal- 
nut or Blond 
Hard Maple 
case. 10" x 10" x 

4", heavy brass trimmed. Lined till 
tilting shade 18"xl2" in Aqua, Crai 
Green, Gold or Beige. Clock numetj 
match. $49.50 plus $3.20 Fed. 
year guarantee. Everyone who 
like* it. 





For those who desire something 
is distinctive, yet sure to be accl 
able, these shelled pecans are rj 
appropriate. Golden brown and (, 
cious, they are carefully sele< 
from the finest nuts grown. 
3 lbs. $4.45 — 5 lbs. $7.1 
10 lbs. $14.00 



Dept. X I 

Jackson, Mississippi 


from Santa C/ausi 




Imagine the lurpme and child, ih delight when y 
youngircr. niece or nephew ©pent a real lc«« '» 
Sanlol Eoch letter ha* low* page*, richly printed I 
colon, ond moiled poiipoid in a Ihme-eol*' mi web 
bearing the authentic "Sonto Cloot" p-cthnarkl Order 
tot ewety child on your livt NOWt 







THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 1948 



Built to natural 

shoulder line. Suits, coats. 

leisure jackets hold shape — 

L «.n't sag. Wide full trouser bar 

^/enls creasing. Revolving chrome 
>ok. The most practical hanger 
"H an't chip, crack, break. Always 
ti s a lifetime. ORDER NOW. 
j ft Packed 6 to a Box. 
Ideal for Xmas. 


our wish for a prac- 
ft by choosing this three- 
tish set of sterling hand- 
silver. A spoon for jeKics 
diments, a pick for olives, 
r lemons, and a cheese 
r. They are $3.60 each, 
per set, tax included. 

c rm to the entrance of mansion 
M. Pictured above, set #14, only 
yfjilivered. Seven other beautiful 
ftni. filagreed scrolls in sets from 
It] $12.50 delivered. Order today 
ft\or Bulletin #552-B. 

^vKrd A. DAUM CO. 

W'linglon Rood, Pittsburgh 16, Po. 


(Continued from page 19) 

HORSE RACING — Beautiful Santa 
Anita Park opens December 28 near 
Pasadena for 50 days of racing. 

ART EXHIBIT— At Pomona College 
until December 20, collection of an- 
cient Chinese paintings assembled by 
Kenneth E. Foster. 

December 19 and 20 in Los Angeles 
Philharmonic Auditorium. In Santa 
Barbara December 22. 

BALLET RUSSE— Opens December 10 
for ten performances in Los Angeles 
Philharmonic Auditorium. 

IN SAN DIEGO— Community Players 
present "Junior Miss" in Old Globe 
Theatre December 3 to 18. 

HOROWITZ — Famous pianist at Los 
Angeles Philharmonic Auditorium De- 
cember 7. 

SYMPHONY— Concert by Los Angeles 
Philharmonic Orchestra December 14 
at Fox-Arlington Theatre in Santa Bar- 

NEW YEAR'S DAY— Festivities high- 
lighted by Tournament of Roses parade 
and Rose Bowl game in Pasadena. 
East-West Football Game in San Fran- 
cisco's Kezir Stadium to benefit Shrine 
Crippled Children's Fund. 



Dunle those knitters on your gift list with a HERO GIFT KIT! Cleverly c 

rayon moire kit, handily carried in knitter's bag. An ideal gift combination! Red, blue, 
Mack, green and rose, also stripes and plaids. {We reserve the right to ship color of 

n choice.) 
KIT NO. 1116 (Large Kit) Priced: $12.75. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 14" S. P. Alu 

Needles; 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminum Needles; 5 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins; 

1 Plastic Knit Count; 1 Plastic Stitch Holder; 4 Plastic Crochet Hooks; 1 Gauge; 1 Ruler. 
KIT NO. 1115 (Small Kit) Priced: $7.95. (Plus 3% Sales Tax). 6 pairs 10" S. P. Aluminui,, 

Needles; 6 sets 7" D. P. Aluminum Sock Pins; 1 Plostic Stitch Holder; 1 Plastic Knit 

Count; 1 Plastic Crochet Hook. 

MARGORITA SHOP - iois south main street -losangelesis, California 


Exciting double aluminum cake mold makes your favorite fruit 
cake ... a gay birthday ' 'family tree' . . . lovely small- 
wedding cake. Complete baking instructions and decorating 
ideas for yummy applesauce tree, snow tree, Christmas tree, 
chocolate evergreen. Full size cake. Perfect gift to thrill a 

Order Today — Prompt Attention 
$5.00 Prepaid 




26" high — 2l" ave. diam. Ready to use, no bricks, 
stones, or labor required. 

Beautiful tree stump garden fixture of heat resist- 
ing reinforced Haydite concrete, stained dark brown 
. . Burns trash or any solid fuel safely. Equipped 
with charcoal pan, and grate. Grills, Broils, Bar- 
becues. Stands all weather. 

only Sig en :°;j r p,ive 

l 7 mJ \* writs to 

W. 0. JOHNSON CO. Dept. C, Omaha, Nebr. 



This novel Klip-On Lamp clips right on 
your book, where it won't interfere 
with turning of pages. Weighing less 
than 6 ounces, it's engineered for cor- 
rect light. For close work, reading in 
bed, use in hotels, hospitals, on trains, 
for nursery night- light, you'll find this 
the most convenient lighting yet de- 
vised. Modern design in ivory plastic, 
with an 8-foot cord, just $2.00 postage 
prepaid. Send check or money order, 


P. O. Box 3822 Richmond Heighti, Mo. 

The Christmas Gift for the 
Man Who "Has Everything" 

Give him a 1949 Dartnell Personal Record Book 
— the aristocrat of appointment, memo and 
personal desk books. He will use it every day 
on his desk at home, at the office or on trips. 
For 25 years the Dartnell has been the choice 
of top business executives, professional men, 
high army and navy officers. 

Hand bound in luxurious imported leather with 
gilt edges. Size 5x8 inches. 200 pages for 
appointments and personal memos. 200 pages 
of useful data. A place to keep track of an- 
niversaries, golf scores, investments, income tax 
deductions, etc. Lists best hotels in leading 
cities, railroad and air fares, road mileages, etc. 

In beautiful gift box & C Cf\ 

Name imprinted in go/a 1 , 30c extra. h'^'*'^ 

1801 Leland Ave., Chicago 40, HI. 

for Corn on the Cob... 


They're here at last — they won't come 
out — Gleaming solid metal holders for 
corn on the cob; now eat with perfect 
pleasure — Handles kept cool by modern, 
turned air-space fins— Easily twist into corn 
cob ends— Won't break or melt or bend 
— Ideal gift for every family, everywhere! 

1. Service for 3 (Chrome Plote) $2.95 

2. Service for 3 {Silver Plate) 

3. Service for 4 {Chrome Plate) 

4. Service for 4 (Silver 
•Plus 20% Fed. Tax. 





Plotel 6.50' 

a new kind of fashion store 

There's a new kind of store in Los Angeles. It's a store that's long been famous in New York 
for highest fashions and lowest prices. When a New York woman has sky-high taste and 
ground-gripping budget, she heads for this store. Its name is Ohrbach's. 
Now this store has come to Los Angeles. 

Millions of thrifty shoppers pay rock bottom prices at Ohrbach's in New York for coats, dresses, 
shoes, hats— for all kinds of clothes for the whole family. Now Los Angeles people will pay 
these same prices . . . and not a penny more ! 

Ohrbach's in Los Angeles has values from all the fashion centers on earth— New York, 
Paris, and of course California itself! 

You'll enjoy shopping here. The store is brand new, big, beautiful. All merchandise is out in 
the open, easy to get at. There are history making values in everything, for everybody. Don't miss 
a shopping trip to Ohrbach's— soon ! 


Wilshire Boulevard— Miracle Mile 
Los Angeles 


THE CAUFORNIAN, December. 1 9 4 I 

what do 



It's almost tomorrow, the tomorrow that is 1949. Somehow a new year means 

beginning, means change ... so why not make all your tomorrows a change 
for the better? Look into your mirror and what do you see? Are you ready 
for the wonderful things you expect of next year . . . ready and 
waiting? Or do you feel it's time to change your outlook, perhaps even the way 
you look? Maybe just a new hair style or a new color chart 

for cosmetics and clothes is the insignificant "change" that will 
brighten your future. And while you're looking ahead, just turn the pages 
and bask in the reflected warmth of our sunshine clothes. We show them 
now for tonic inspiration, and because we think very shortly you 
will want to choose your sunshiners . . . for resort wear now 
(if you're lucky enough to be traveling) . . . for California wear soon (if 
you live here) . . . for pure wardrobe excitement (if you're smart and 

buy sun clothes when first resort collections reach the stores.) 
We give you something new for a change . . . revivifying, conversational, 
wonderful change! 






Before you know it, you'll be courting the sun ... in flirtatious two- 
piecer like this by Louella Ballerino, above. Bates cotton, organdy flounces; 
sizes 10-16, under $40 at J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; A. Harris, Dallas. 

•^— \^ insome ways for lazy days interpreted by Catalina in a satin lastex 
swimsuit with shining coin dots, sizes 32-38, about $9 at Younkers, Des 
Moines; City of Paris, San Francisco; Wanamaker's, Philadelphia. 


a Bright Day 



< \jg 

Wonder-wear for resort or patio . . . Pat Premo's two-piece cotton with wrap-around bodice of Fuller's 

Jungle Fire print. Bright color flickers against dark backgrounds. 
Sizes 10-18, about $45 at Best's Apparel, Seattle; Gimble Bros., Pittsburgh. 

2 4 


Take to the sun-ways . . . left, Casual Time's strapless dress and stole in paisley print. Sizes 9-17, 

about $23 at Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. Right, perennial pongee with 

fascinating neckline by Joy Kingston. Sizes 10-16. under $50 at Carson's, Chicago. 


Look to one side for newest fashion notes . . . left, windowpane stripes draped to the side 

with plain bodice; also striped bolero, it's about $25 the set: Tabak of California. 

Right, Lynn Lester's eye-catcher of Celanese Indanese, about $23 at J. J. Haggarty. Los Angeles. 

'Multicolor dots on wonderful, wearable jersey . . . we show it in flattering, snowy white 

but you'll find it in a wide range of colors to wear to holiday parties or your favorite resorts. 

Designed by Georgia Kay, sizes 10-18. about $27 at Bullock's. Los Angeles: Dayton Co.. Minneapolis. 







id 4 




sunshiners for your resort wardrobe 





v, f "Vi 












With the vogue for bare shoul- 
ders so persistent this spring, you're 
sure to want at least one boldly bare 
dress for yourself. Whether or not 
you have an enviably perfect figure, 
you'll find you can wear California's 
newest sun fashions because our de- 
signers have so many tricks to make 
bra tops fit snugly, beautifully. We've 
seen them use soft feather boning, 
shirr and drape and even pad the 
bosom to make the bodice look ap- 
pealing. Besides, almost every sun 
dress has its own optional shoulder 
straps (very special social security) 
or even a bolero or stole for more 
modest maidens. It requires only a 
quick look in the mirror to decide 
whether your shoulders are pretty 
enough to expose! Timely exercise 
and massage right now will help 
you develop lovely rounded con- 
tours; nourishing creams and lotions 
applied conscientiously will enrich 
the skin so that very shortly you can 
proudly bare your shoulders for 

Left, Dan River cotton sun dress 
with feather-boned bodice, frivolous 
eyelet stole; W. R. Darling, about $13 


Sunshine and stoles go together over bare-top fashions like this by Lynn Lester, part of four-piece play set 
in Fluegelman pique: boned bodice, play suit, skirt, stole, all together for about &25. 


Here is another one of those 

wonderful California classics 

with unexpected flashes of 

color: Ken Sutherland 

designed this washable gabardine 

suit with multicolor seersucker 

facing to match in-or-outer 

blouse. You'll love it for 

deck promenades or early sun 

season-ing anywhere. In sizes 

10-20, it's about $50 at Carson's, 

Chicago: J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles. 

Perfectly ladylike: worldly 

linens for country club or 

travel. Left. Lou Kornhandler'g 

crisply tucked version with 

bias cut sleeve details, fresh 

as spring; sizes 10-20, about $40 

at Bullock's, Los Angeles: 

Stix-Baer-Fuller. St Louis. 

Right, from House of Meredith. 

intricate blending of three 

shades of linen, tab pockets; 

sizes 10-18. about 

For Country Club 
or City Living 


Soft and altogether feminine . . cool and cut-out, fashioned by 
Carl Naftal of washable rayon, above. Sizes 10-18 and 9-17, about 
$25 at Desmond's, Los Angeles. Versatile shantung dress from 
Dale Hunter, right. Sizes 10-20, about $15 at Buffums', Long Beach. 



Pat Premo combines a bright cotton plaid jumper dress and plain sleeveless blouse. Sizes 
10-16, under $35 ac Carson's. Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Best's Apparel, Seattle. 


You'll love these two-piecers . . . left, separate bolero on boned 
pique sun dress by M. R. Fleischman, about $27; jacket-dresses of 

Dan River cordspun . . . center, Lil Alice junior styles with ric-rac, 
about $15; right, stripes in contrast, about $11, Lady Alice. 

Two to one. you'll vote for these first-dippers of spring, left. 

two-piece seersucker playsuit by Catalina. about $8: right, one-piece 
strapless satin-y faille by Caltex with heart-'n'-dart pattern. 

about S20 at May Company, Los Angeles; Carson's. Chicago. 


You Gan Eat It Here If You Want To 
. . . But Most People Take It Away 

Cobino Wright, Sr. and Roger Dahlhjelm 

A lmost every crossroads community in the world 
. . if anything can be grown in the soil . . 
has a farmers market. It's a familiar sight in Iowa 
or Italy, in Mexico or high in the Chilean hills. 
Farmers for generations have pooled their perish- 
able produce, their finest jellies, jams and needle- 
work, their unique handicraft for tourists and 
city folk to buy. But in ballyhooed Los Angeles 
style, of course, none can match for sheer variety 
and ingenuity the famous Farmers Market at Third 
and Fairfax in America's fastest-growing big city. 
There, every week day, more than 20,000 hungry 
and curious from 48 states and the rest of the 
world converge on 112 stalls on a sprawling 14 
acres to nibble an enchilada, buy a stuffed black 
Turkish fig, bagel or a beagle, an afternoon frock, 
a parakeet, a bunch of French endive or a gate- 
leg table. His Honor, Y. Meherally, Mayor of 
Bombay, bought a mango. 

Millions of people have shopped its fantastic 
stalls in 14 years. Farmers Market has become 
a must for the tourist . . just as Huntington Library 
and Mount Palomar. 

"Let's have lunch at the Farmers Market" is a 
popular proposal . . from housewife or movie 
star . . and the bright umbrellas shade the who's 
who of moviedom and international society. The 
less glamorous, too, rub shoulders as they gather 
their lunches, bit by bit, from the various stalls, 
capture tables with friends and as- 
semble their exciting food. For noth- 
ing is drab nor conventional. There's 
an extra zip to the tamales. a few 
more shrimps in the salad, a coun- 
try-good richness in the old-fashioned 
ice cream. Farmers Market is not 
for the poor. True, prices are not ex- 
orbitant in light of today's food in- 
dex, but the careful shopper won't 
find many bargains . . rather, the 
epicurean can find the finest and the 

Farmers Market began in strictly 
rural fashion in 1934, the gastro- 

nomical brain-child of a Minnesota Swede. Roger 
Dahlhjelm had been employed as a part-time book- 
keeper at the Happy Oven Bakery and Tea Room 
on Hollywood Boulevard. Earnings per week: Four 
dollars in cash and every last date-nut sandwich 
he could eat. That was the height . . or depth . . 
of the depression, and a lot of people did a lot' 
of thinking. Dahlhjelm realized that a date-nut 
sandwich is fine for lunch if you haven't had one- 
for breakfast. 

Being somewhat of an altruist, the graying, 
slender man thought specifically of local farmers -j 
who were operating unprofitable roadside stands. 
If only they could be assembled centrally in a 
city location, they would constitute an in-town farm 
market where consumers could buy fresher produce? 
direct. Dahlhjelm had acquired an appreciation for 
publicity, having been in his time promoter of a 
two-car street railway in Lewiston, Idaho, organizer^ 
of a number of land deals, banker, newspaper 
auditor, operator of a country store, horse trader, .' 
and Seattle agent for the Stanley Steamer. His 
first step was to interest Fred Beck, advertising: 
and publicity man. Beck encouraged the idea. 

Dahlhjelm set out in a borrowed car to 9pread 
word of his plans to local farmers. They listened, 
as did their wives who pictured piles of gilt ex- 
changeable for home-made pies and cakes, jams 
and jellies, and maybe a little homespun needle- 

One thing more was necessary . . a location for 
the enterprise. The stubborn Swede didn't give 
up when likely prospects failed to see the possi- 
bilities. Eventually he gained the attention of Earl 
B. Gilmore, who then and now lives in a historic 
adobe built in 1828. main house on the farm of 
pioneer Californian Arthur Fremont Gilmore. The 
farm's principal crop over the years had changed 
from grain to milk to oil, the latter proving most 
profitable. But as Los Angeles had grown, the Gil- 
more oil fields had become surrounded with resi- 
dences, and zoning ordinances had stopped drilling 
operations. The fringes of the farm on Beverly 
Boulevard, Fairfax Avenue and Third Street were 


Los Angeles' Farmers Market mushroomed from a tomato stand into an international affair 

;cupied with a miscellany of strange ventures . . a 
out-casting pond, a dog track, a turtle course and 
ie brand-new Gilmore Stadium. Corner of Third 

d Fairfax was utilized mainly as a sandlot 

seball diamond. It has been said that when 
arl Gilmore agreed to "lend" his now important 
imer to Dahlhjelm he wasn't paying much at- 
ntion to what was going on, but it would be 
ore accurate to state that the astute Gilmore 

w a great deal of merit in the plan. 

On a July morning in 1934 when the neighbor- 
ed kids met on the vacant lot for their base- 
ill game, they found the bases loaded. Dahlhjelm, 
doubtful credit at the time, had induced a lum- 
:r yard manager, one Mr. Burnaby, to trust him 

r a load of 2 x 4's. A tent and awning man had 
ipplied several bolts of gay awnings on the cuff. 
>m Wormley, one-man construction crew, pound- 
every which way to have the market ready to 
>en the following Saturday. 

Meanwhile, Fred Beck, also working on credit, 
id persuaded KNX, then a local radio station, 
make available some air time so that local 
rmers could be informed of the coming market- 
ace. He chose a time of day when the farmers 
Duld be in their fields, fully aware that the pub- 
:, more attentive to what it overhears, would prick 
its ears. Los Angeles housewives did just that, 
ie announcements invited the farmers to come to 
e new market, bring with them their best and 
eshest produce and sell directly to the consumer, 
it that if the berries on the bottom of the box 
ere not as good as the berries on the top of the 
)x, "we'll throw you out of here fast, farmer." 

Came Saturday. The Fanners Market was ready 

d it looked for all the world like an Indiana 
izaar on the lawn of the First Methodist Church. 

dozen farmers displayed their dawn-fresh fruits 
id vegetables on the simple pine counters of the 

nvas-covered stalls. The original 18 included 
ie where the good sherries of California were 
ligoted direct from the cask, a display of home- 
ade fudge, a hamburger stand which utilized a 

rosene stove, and a few other shoestring enter- 
"ises. A drove of housewives arrived . . on a 
rk . . and apparently had the time of their lives. 

Elsa Lanchester and Charles Laughton prefer the Farmers Market's nippiest cheese. Nipl 

Mary Perry, Bill Eythe and Joan Lorring, above. A lalapaloosa sundae, above, gets Robert Stack 

Hurd Hatfield, below, can promise sweet desserts The lovely Lynn Bari, below, shops at Mirandy's 

There's chatter with 

the chutney when Angelenos 

gather in the shade at 

Farmers Market to lunch 

informal like 

A typical market street scene, below, with civic convenience 

The popular Bill's Bread Bin advertises "Buns But No Bananas" 

Tourists . . Celia Stein, lower left. Rev. W. H. Hohman, Ohio 
At lower right is a good example of the market "carriage trade" 

■' X BHS 

One tomato grower who had sold out his complete 
stock announced to Dahlhjelm that he was going 
back to his ranch for more. He returned quickly 
and again piled his stall high with tomatoes. Sus- 
picious, Dahlhjelm elicited the information that he 
had bought his afternoon stock at a bargain mar- 
ket a few blocks away. "So what?" the farmer 
said, "these dames will never know the difference." 
True to its advance advertising, the management 
"'threw him out of here fast." 

Dahlhjelm's strict policing of quality has been 
a major factor in the growth of Farmers Market. 
Today, if a retailer should resort to questionable 
practices, he would quickly meet a similar fate, 
although under state law a thirty days' notice to 
quit the premises might apply. 

Farmers Market hasn't sailed a clear and un- 
troubled course through its 14 years. In the be- 
ginning the little market had no electric wiring, 
no plumbing, no telephone; its banking was done 
from the frayed inside pocket of Dahlhjelm's 
coat ; it was unhindered by experts, and it had no 
sanitary facilities. This last-named shortcoming 
came to the attention of authorities who pointed out 
that public places must be provided with certain 
conveniences. Dahlhjelm, with his usual capacity 
for direct action, retained the services of a youth 
who owned a Ford touring car. The vehicle op- 
erated on a continual belt-line basis between the 
Farmers Market and Gilmore Stadium which did 
have running water. There were two simple signs 
on the jaloppy . . on one side, "Women," and on 
the other side, "Men." It is said to have been a 
pretty sight whisking through the dusty fields. The 
system stood up legally until Roger Dahlhjelm's 
cash on hand was sufficient to begin a series of im- 
provements that are continuing to this day. 

The first winter, which in those days brought 
rains to California, left the market soggy and 
swollen and the farmer tenants doubtful and de- 
spairing. Only the indomitable spirit of Dahlhjelm 
kept the small band together. At last the sun 
shone again and people smiled. The next spring 
found the Farmers Market operating with renewed 
vigor. Seeing the crowds gathered to buy berries 
and corn and melons and home-made pies, the 
butcher and the grocer were quick to spot the 
location as well suited to food retailing. The plan 


appealed to Dahlhjelm. 
too, who saw an op- 
portunity to develop a 
complete food center. 
Building began anew, 
to the delight of the 
head man whose favor- 
ite music is the sound 
of hammer on nail. 

Dahlhjelm and hi* 
immediate associates 
have never at any time 
been in the food re- 
tailing business. Tech- 
nically, their operation 

Grandma may buy sleepy-eyed pup mav \> e regarded as real 

estate, but the no-lease policy under which the 
market operates provided Dahlhjelm with con- 
trol. Today applications for space run as high as 
300 a month and nothing is for rent or for sale. 

In its first years Farmers Market gained enough 
momentum with its faithful following of house- 
wives to have established itself as an irresistible 
force. And then it ran smack into an immovable 
object in the shape of a hungry woman, too hungry 
to go home for lunch. Then, too, there were tastier 
morsels at the Farmers Market than in Mrs. Groan- 
er's larder. By this time specialty shops were fea- 
turing prepared foods to take out . . . tempting 
items like boysenberry pie, baked beans, salads, 
cream puffs, baked ham. It was the ham at eight 
cents a slice (this was in 1936) that weakened 
Birdie Groaner. Birdie found an old melon crate, 
deposited herself, opened her package of meat, 
tossed the wrappings into the aisle, and ate the 
slice of ham . . with relish. Other shoppers began 
to eat-on-the-spot. One woman who was even hun- 
grier than Birdie Groaner bought a bun to go 
around her slice of meat. And then the inevitable 
. . it was reported to Roger Dahlhjelm that some- 
one had arrived at the Farmers Market for the 
express purpose of eating lunch! 

The practice of eating right out in the open 
was disturbing to the manager at first because it 
sidestepped the original purpose of the market. 
It was also making the place unsightly, what with 
Jane Q. Public eating her merry way from stall 
to stall, leaving in her wake rind from a fresh dewy 
melon, a paper plate licked clean of sauerkraut. 

a gnawed-on drumstick, and the crust of some 
blueberry pie. Not very neat. Messy, in fact. And 
Roger Dahlhjelm didn't like that. Signs about 
keeping the place clean were posted but very 
few people take time to read when they're hungry 
. . so a pie plate picker-upper was employed. Then, 
of course, people began wanting to sit down to 
eat, and there weren't enough empty melon crates 
to accomodate them. Roger added chairs, then 
tables, then gay umbrellas to keep the sun from 
melting the hot fudge sundaes . . then girls to clean 
off the tables. Just like that the Farmers Market was 
also a restaurant . . greatest outdoor eating place 
in the country. Shops specializing in seafood, fried 
chicken, enchiladas, chow mein and pastries ap- 
pealed to the local gourmets. 

As the unorthodox market flourished not every- 
one realized the potency of publicist Fred Beck's 
ramblings in printed form. Before long these took 
the shape of a daily column in the Los Angeles 
Times wherein Beck told the ladies how fully 
packed were the ears of corn, how stringy the 
beans, or to lay off the tomatoes because they'd 
be better next week. Housewives served Beck's 
column with breakfast until friend husband be- 
gan reading it and found that Beck also made 
mention of such solid stuff as corned beef, apple 
pie and the barber shop. 

By this time, too, the market had sprouted of) 
in another direction. Specialty shops devoted to 
silvercraft, furniture, products of Mexico, Brazil 
and Guatemala, stationery, clothing, hardware, took 
shape on the north side of the parking lot. These 
wares also were noted in the ad-in-the-Times, as 
were any incidents that might interest friends of 
the market. Folks began to send clippings "back 
east." Magazines such as Reader's Digest, Satur- 
day Evening Post and Time have done their best 
to explain the unusual market place. 

Roger Dahlhjelm, who lives in a small apart- 
ment on top of the market, maintains the same 
kind of control he applied the first day. Fred 
Beck, who kept the public whimsically aware of 
what's new and in season, only recently began 
writing a column for the new Los Angeles Mirror. 
Earl Gilmore is just offstage. Bob Garrick writes 
advertising copy. And each day, except Sunday, 
thousands of people come to shop and stay to 
eat at Los Angeles' amazing Farmers Market. 

Christmas means secrets and surprises! Mary Cheeley's 

brother and sister ''Mother Hubbard" set. Bates cotton 

right. Bright-eyed miss in Mildred's plaid taffeta. 

batiste and lace blouse, below. I'int-sized denim chap 

overalls with red plaid shirt: Lmrie-Pizer. lower right. 

What's more fun than fussy party dresses? Ruffles and 

bows on Christmas dresses of warm fabrics such as this 
one. left, of wool challis with tiny lace edging. Right. 
velveteen in black, blue and red combined with crisp plaid 

taffeta. Both by Jean Durain. perfect for HI' miss. 







Cruise whites, and always right . . . Kay Saks appealing trio in Botany gabardine. Left, suit with rounded yoke, 
club collar, about $80; center, love of a coat, belted or not. about $100; right, beautiful coming and going, the slim 
suit with pearl button details, about $90. At City of Paris. San Francisco: Smartwear-Irving Saks. Roanoke: Sako- 
witz Bros., Houston. Hats. Agnes Originals. So perfect for summertime, white is your most exciting choicp for now! 



She makes many of her dresses 

gives sewing tips to yon 

JUST as some women like to spend their extra-curricular 
hours with a paint brush or a hand of bridge, Loretta 
Young prefers to make neat rows of stitches in dresses, 
doilies, aprons and bed jackets. It started when Loretta 
. then Gretchen . . . was in convent school and has 
continued to this day. Through years of success as a 
motion picture star, crowned by her achievement in win- 
ning the Academy award, Loretta Young has made her 
own dresses for sportswear and home. Sewing is one of 
her every day activities, and she has some good tips 
for you. 

When daughter Judy arrived she found still another 
outlet for her sewing talents. It was fun making minia- 
ture, fluffy dresses which were much like the ones she 
had made for her dolls as a child. Then there were the 
dainty presents she made for her girl friends all year 
'round. On a movie set between "takes," Loretta can 
complete a fancy blouse and mentally rehearse lines and 
action for the next scene . . . keeping her hands busy and 
thereby relaxing her nerves. 

Loretta enjoys cutting out her own patterns on the 
floor. For fittings she uses a dressmaker's model of her 
own figure. She prefers fine handwork, but for larger 
articles, such as dresses, she uses an electric sewing 
machine. And she is a thrifty shopper, going from 
store to store to find the texture and design of the 
fabric she needs . . . and at the price she wants 
to pay. "I have to budget myself on ma- 
terials," she says, "because if I didn't, I'd 
simply get carried away." 

Analyzing it, Loretta points out that a 
sewing hobby need not run into great ex- 
penditure. The best patterns, couturier de- 
signs, are at most two dollars. The average 
pattern costs from 25 to 50 cents. Dress- 
maker's models are available, made to your 
own measurements, at a reasonable price 
at almost every department store notions 
counter. You need not buy a sewing ma- 
chine . . . the latest models usually are 
offered for home rental. And the fabrics 
you will need can fit your budget. 

A simply-designed sport dress 

Loretta suggests that any beginner should start her 
sewing hobby by using patterns and following every 
direction to the letter ... no matter how minute. "First 
learn to sew properly, then start improvising if you must. 
Personally, I enjoy finding a becoming design and mak- 
ing it up in several different fabrics. When you're able 
to do this, you can make your wardrobe a happy one . . . 
full of comfortable, good line dresses." 

Making hand-sewn Christmas gifts for her friends is 
one of Miss Young's pet pastimes, because she believes 
they attest to personal thought and care and thereby 
compliment the recipient. She incorporates favorite color 
combinations and laces, monograms and nicknames, label- 
ing them with greater friendliness and warmth than any 
gifts she could buy. 

Here are Loretta's tips on sewing she learned the 
hard way: 

1. Never let a good idea be forgotten. Put it down on 
paper the moment it occurs to you even if you consider 
you have two left hands in the artistic line (as I doi. 
Later on you may be able to elaborate on it. 

2. Never put aside a job of sewing no matter how dis 
gusted you may become. Keep going! (I almost tore up 

two dresses in the making which are now my favorites! ) 
3. Don't be too proud to take suggestions, or even 
lessons, from a friend or a professional seamstress 
You never learn enough about sewing. 

Study your best and worst figure features, 
then design your clothes accordingly. Don't 
let fickle fashion push you into wearing 
unbecoming styles. 

5. Study the colors of your fabrics in vari- 
ous lights before buying them so you won't 
be fooled when it's too late to return the 

6. Concentrate on one strong accent in each 
garment you design and make . . . th*- 
buttons . . . the print . . . the soutache braid. 

"Nothing inspires so awesome nor en- 
viable an expression on a woman's face as 
when she admires your outfit and you are 
able to say 'I made it myself!" 

the handiwork of Loretta Young 

Design Ideas From the 

C\ reate clothes for yourself exactly the way the) 
would do it in Hollywood! We took two sample; 
of beautiful Cohama fabric to Mary Wills, designei 
at Samuel Goldwyn Studios, and asked what it 
would inspire her to make . . . something dra 
matically different for you. 

"The fabric speaks for itself," said she, im 
pressed by the decorative wool with glittering gol 
threads interwoven . . . and promptly designed! 
this pattern for a new coat, fuller and more fem- 
inine than ever. Sufficient to keep you warm, en- 
livened by a real idea right from a studio designer 
. . . here is a dream of an evening coat, with 
Watteau back if you like it. Line it or just bind 
the inside seams. It's simple to make, simply 
lovely to wear. 

The metalaine wool is 52 inches wide, with non- 
tarnishable metallic lustre. 

On the opposite page is an evening gown in the 
pure silk Cohama print. This fabric design, says 
Miss Wills, is so lovely she would keep the cut 
of the dress simple: bodice fitted easily, skirt 
folded or gathered with extra fullness for rich- 
ness . . . waist and neckline where they are most 
becoming to you. 

For the extra couturier touch, make dramatic 
flowers of the silk print pattern (insets will show 
you how), and put them on bodice, or on a cape 
or coat you might make of fine linen or pure silk, 
repeating a bright hue of the print. This Cohama 
pure silk print is 40 inches wide. 

Mary Wills has just completed designs for Sam- 
uel Goldwyn's "Enchantment." starring Teresa 
Wright and David Niven. 

u ' 

Studio to You 

A HO US *t 

simplicity and beauty of design 

note the decorative planting 

Glass watts and doors look onto spocious hilltop terroce 


|n sitting on top of the world!" 
it was a popular refrain a few years ago, but it's just as applicable 
ay for Mr. and Mrs. L. N. Bell, whose contemporary house in Southern 
lifornia overlooks the myriad of lights of Hollywood on one side, the 
tad stretches of famed San Fernando Valley on the other. And. from 
ir unusual vista on Woodrow Wilson Drive, they enjoy another en- 
ble position. John Lautner designed complete and casual living for 
m . . in a house that is entirely independent of interior decoration. 
Constructed principally of redwood, glass and brick. Lautner's creation 
emblematic of the trend in California . . utility with comfort, beaut> 
hout gingerbread, practicability with the size of your budget in 

cud. Five rooms that are different consume approximately 1300 square 
t at a building cost today of $12 a foot. A covered car port accounts 
an additional 480 square feet. The Bells' living room is set on an 
lie to appreciate every good view, glass walls almost completely sur- 

rind it and the loggia which encompasses their dining room area. One 
iroom has become a den. and sliding panels in the partition between 

cling area and kitchen afford an unimpaired view of the house. Every- 

Bng has been designed for easy upkeep, for maximum enjoyment. 

: jLautner. a disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright, has provided built-in 

cpinets in the bedrooms and kitchen, open shelves and sky lights in the 
;|ltgia. an outdoor barbecue backing the living room fireplace, grease- 

|bof linotile floors for the kitchen and bathroom, interior planting that 
•■elphasizes the California feeling All these, and more, are his contri- 
-l|tion to those who appreciate luxurious, casual comfort . . the essence 

■ the California Way of Life. 

John Lautner's unconventional ideas 

of casual comfort provided the design to 

beautify the basic . capture the sun 


Redwood partition separates kitchen from dining area, above 

Two views of living room, left, show approach from kitchen 

through loggia and closeup of inviting fireplace-book-nook 


CALIFORNIANA who must have snow at Christmas, have 
it . . they go to the mountains. The rest of us stay at home 
and enjoy our Yule log and our stockings, our eggnog and 
our oyster stuffing, with never a thought for the sleet and 
the slush and the chill bitter winds that we're not missing. 
We're not missing any fun, either. Even if the high cost 
of everyday living has put a crimp in our holiday giving, 
we can still have the fun of making gay little gifts for every- 
one , . especially for the children. Children are the most im- 
portant part of any Christmas and ihey all adore Christmas 
cookies . . cookies cut in wondrous shapes, bedecked with 
icing and looped with ribbon so that they will hang on the 
tree. They'll adore them because they will be their very own, 
either marked with their own names or in the shape of their 
own favorite toy or pet. They'll adore them because, when 
Twelfth Night comes around and the other tree ornaments 
are packed away for another year, they can at least eat their 
cookies . . a last wonderful taste of Christmas. 

CHRISTMAS TREE COOKIES Sift together 7 cups of flour and 
a tablespoon of salt. Cream 2 cups of shortening, beat in 1 
and 1/3 cups of sugar and 4 whole eggs, one at a time, and 
flavor with the grated rind of 2 oranges. (That's the Cali- 
fornia touch!) Add the flour and mix well, then chill for 
easier handling. Roll, not too thin . . say about an eighth 
of an inch thick, and cut by laying paper patterns on the 
dough and cutting around them with a sharp knife. If you 
wonder where you get the patterns, I'll tell you . . you make 
them. Use cardboard and draw pictures of animals, toys, 
story-book characters and divers shapes, then cut them out. 
There are your patterns and don't tell me you can't draw. 
You can trace. The shapes that particularly wow the chil- 
dren are clowns, Santa Clauses, trains and 
dolls, but the adults invariably go for the 
poodle dog. Back to the cookies . . you've 
cut out the various shapes . . a task not 
as tedious as you might think, for after 


bv helen evans brown 

the first half-dozen or so you'll find yourself slashing them 
I out with great abandon. Put them carefully on a greased 
cookie sheet and make two holes near the top of the string 
or ribbon. Now bake them carefully and allow to cool be- 
fore icing. 

COOKIE ICING Beat 4 egg whites slightly, add 2 cups of 
I confectioner's sugar and a pinch of salt and continue beat- 
ing. Add 4 teaspoons of lemon juice and enough more sugar 

I to make it stiff. (Cut through it with a knife . . if it remains 
I cut, it's stiff enough). Divide the icing into as many colors 

as you want and do your tinting with liquid vegetable colors 

II . . but be sure to leave some of the icing white. You'll prob- 
I ably want some red, some green, and a little less blue and 
I yellow, but if you prefer chartreuse and fuchsia that's all 
I right, too. Spread the cookies thinly and evenly with the 
• base color and allow to dry (poke out those holes), then 

! decorate either with a pastry tube or with a water color brush 

i (thin the icing for this) or with both. You'll catch on quickly 

and be most frightfully impressed with your talent. The 

i j final touch is to put a loop of ribbon or string through those 

I holes and to pack the cookies flat so that there'll be no trage- 

While we still have some icing and some dough on hand. 
|j we can make a sugar house. Make it of cardboard or of cookie 

II dough baked flat, then stick together with icing. Ice all 
I] over with white icing, add a red chimney, and outline doors 
II and windows with colored candies. The walk and stone wall 
l| can be made with peanut brittle and the trees in front can 

be made by inverting cone-shaped paper cups over pepper- 
mint sticks, icing the tops, and squiggling on blobs of colored 
| icing for Christmas tree lights. There's the centerpiece for 
your holiday table! 
The eating of Christmas cookies is not limited to the chil- 
li dren. The boss, the postman, Uncle Ezekiel and Lady Grey 
i would a heap sight rather have them than a Christmas tie 
1 or an expensive and impersonal Christmas card. If you're a 
box hoarder, and who isn't, you can cover up those you've 
1 saved with all manner of fancy papers, decorate them with 
last year's Christmas cards, and paste a ruffle of paper doilies 
[ inside the boxes. Glamour stuff. 

Springerle, lebkuchen, spritz and pfeffernusse are tradi- 
tional with many Californian families at Christmastime . . 
families who have brought the recipes from the old country. 
Any standard cook book will tell you how to make them. I 
I concentrate instead on cookies that are more typical of Cali- 
| fornia . . cookies that are fast becoming a Californian tra- 
] dition. 

CALIFORNIA BRANDY BALLS You don't have to know how to 
cook to make these. They're not cooked. Mix together 3 
cups of vanilla wafers which have been rolled fine, 1% 
cups of confectioner's sugar, ll/o cups of chopped California 
j walnuts, l/o cup of California brandy (or Jamaica rum), and 
3 tablespoons of corn syrup. Shape into balls the size 
of the proverbial walnut, and roll in powdered sugar. Store, 
tightly closed, for at least a week before serving. 

BROWNIES The all-time, all-year favorite but still a Christ- 
mas must. Melt 2 squares of bitter chocolate with l/g pound 
of butter in the top of a double boiler. Add 1 cup of sugar. 
I V4 teaspoon of salt, l/o cup of flour, 1 teaspoon of vanilla 
: and l/o cup of California walnuts. Pour into a 6xl0-inch pan 
I which has been lined with waxed paper. Spread evenly and 

sprinkle the top with another half-cup of chopped walnuts. 
I3ake at 325° for about 45 minutes or less, and turn out on 
a board. Peel off paper, allow to cool, then cut into 2 dozen 
squares. It's nice to wrap each brownie in aluminum foil. 
Festive, too. 

ALMOND PASTE Well, it's made from California almonds, 
isn't it? Blanch V/2 cups of shelled California almonds and 
put them through the food chopper 3 times, using the finest 
knife. Add % CU P °f sugar, 14 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 cup of 
water, and a drop or two of almond extract. Cook in a double 
boiler for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool, knead until 
smooth, and use for macaroons or for marzipan. 

ALMOND MACAROONS Add 2 egg whites to 1/0 pound of 
almond paste, then mix in 1 cup of sugar. Mix well, adding 
a little more egg white if too stiff. Shape with a pastry bag 
onto a cookie sheet that has been buttered and then dusted 
with corn starch. Decorate with bits of holly made from tiny 
pieces of citron or angelica and pieces of glace cherry. Bake 
at 300° for 25 or 30 minutes. 

MEXICAN COOKIES The Mexicans, who contribute so much 
to our Californian cuisine, give us another favorite. Knead 
together l/o pound of butter, l/o cup of confectioner's sugar. 
2 cups of flour, 14 teaspoon of salt, and 1 cup of ground 
pecans. Shape into little balls, roll in powdered sugar, ar- 
range on cookie sheets and flatten slightly by pressing half 
a pecan on top of each. Bake at 300° for 20 minutes or until 
a very pale gold. 

CALIFORNIA BRANDY SNAPS These are slightly tricky, but 
worth every drop of patience, and of brandy, that you put 
into them. Melt 1/4 pound of butter, add l/o cup of sugar, 1/4 
cup of molasses, a cup of flour, a teaspoon of ground ginger. 
t/8 teaspoon of salt, and 2 teaspoons of brandy. Drop by tea- 
spoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet, bake four minutes in 
a hot oven (400°), cool a minute, then roll each cookie 
tightly, holding long enough for them to retain their new 
shape. It will be necessary, unless you're a demon for speed, 
to put the unrolled ones back in the oven for a minute if 
they become too stiff to be pliant. 

WALNUT DATE BARS Beat 2 eggs well, add 1 cup of brown 
sugar, 1/4 cup of flour, 14 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of 
baking powder, a teaspoon of vanilla, and 1 cup each of dates 
and walnuts, both from California and both cut in coarse 
pieces. (Use scissors for the dates.) Bake in a pan which 
has been lined with waxed paper, as for the Brownies above. 
This should take about 25 minutes in an oven of 325 degrees. 
Cut in oblongs and wrap in cellophane of various colors. 

SAND TARTS Again California almonds lend their charm 
to a Christmas cookie. Cream 14 pound of butter with a cup 
of sugar, add a beaten egg, 1 and % cups of flour, 2 tea- 
spoons of baking powder (1 of double-action), and 14 tea- 
spoon of salt. Mix well and chill thoroughly. Roll an eighth 
of an inch thick, and cut into diamond-shaped pieces. Ar- 
range split blanched almonds in the centers and at each cor- 
ner, brush with white of egg, and sprinkle with sugar mixed 
with cinnamon (1 teaspoon of the spice to each quarter-cup 
of sugar). Bake at 400° for about 8 minutes or until brown. 
And so you have some California cookies. Have fun. too. 
this merrv Christmas! 


. . . (Joes three masterful pieces in 
his own masterful way. He picks a color 

in gabardine, picks it up with tone-on-tone striped 
worsted for the jacket. All together, David Gaines 

creates your soundest fashion buy of the season. 

The coat, retail about $70. 
The suit, retail about $60. 
The sizes, 10 to 18. 


Beige with beige stripe. 
Brown with beige stripe, 
Grey with grey stripe, 
Slack with grey stripe. 

For srore nearest you 
see page 17 this issue 
or write 

GAINES & CO., 783 Mission Street, San Francisco 3 


f*% ^ 

California and Los Angeles 

Collectors' item! Souvenir plates for hang- 
ing on the wall, prettying your shelves, 
serving hors d'oeuvre. Sturdy ceramic 
plates, lOyi" in diameter, with the print 
under heavy glaze. Colorful Los Angeles or 
California scenes. Maroon or blue, shipped 
parcel post insured. 

EACH, JUST $1.50 

(Add 25c for shipping, 

2Vi% sales tax in Calif., 

3% tax in Los Angeles) 


MAP PLATES $1.25 each 










Enjoy the tantalizing spiciness of p<| 
at its best with this efficient pepper 
Connoisseurs demand freshly ground! 
per for piquant, subtle flavors. And qil 
combines with craftsmanship in 
charming, useful Olde Thompson Pel 
Mills . . . shaped like tiny antique cl 
grinders. They assure faithful sel 
through many years of more zestful di < 

(Add 1 5c postage, 
2'/2% sales tax in Co 

Just $3.95 





Deliciously different, these tasty Magic Nuts . . . salty 
glazed nuts, without oil, prepared by our secret pro- 
cess. The largest, most perfect are used in these pack- 
ages of blanched and redskinned almonds, cashews, 
pecans, filberts, peanuts. Beautifully gift wrapped. 

SUPER MIX {no peanuts) 

$1.85 Postage 

1 lb. $2.25 $2.95 prepaid 

2 lbs. $3.85 $5.15 in U. S. 


y 2 lb. $1.50 



: " . :: . 


"We Specialize in Planting" 


6/2" h'gh, attractive ceramic planter 

for wall or shelf. Red, blue 

green on white background. (We' 

have many other ceramic planters, 


$2.50 unplanted — $4.50 planted 
(We plant free — charge only for 
plants and material used) 

Our exclusive product for indoor dish gar*' 
dens. Morgan's own mixture of enriched' 
peat moss to keep your plants healthy. 
With instructions for planting, feeding and 
cleaning. Generous-sized bag. 

Only 49c, plus 20c for shipping 

Handmade Leather Pouch Bags 

Softest leather is used in this exquisite handmade 
pouch bag. It's deep and roomy, all leather lined,, 
with safety catch fastener. Shoulder straps detach,! 
so it may be carried as a handbag. Sold exclu-| 
sively by us. Your choice of saddle brown, choco- 
late, seal brown, Continental green, red or black- 
Hi 1 Sll (Plus 20% luxury tax, 
*'■•<« 2Vi% sales tax in Calif., 

3% sales tax in Los Angeles) 

I M P 




THE CALIFORNIAN, Becember, 1948 

Red feather, symbol of leadership, of giving ... and a new suit for the New Year! Gene Shelly's inimitable 

tailoring of fine worsted, tab motif at collar and waist, plain gabardine skirt, about $185 

at Joseph Magnin, San Francisco; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Bonwit Teller, New York. Keneth Hopkins hat, Le Cort bag. 

ImtAm^i tn huh - 

the new crease - resistan t 

For that fresh, radiant look — 
that wonderful unwrinkled look, 
with alluring swish and rustle, 

choose the new "Everglaze" 
taffetas that do not shrink 
or stretch and have a rich, 

durable lustre. In yard goods and 

made-up garments everywhere. 

*A trade- mark signifying fabric finished and tested according to processes 
ond stondards controlled and prescribed by Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co. 


V>ialifornia sometimes suffers from its 
own effervescent publicity ... or rather, 
December visitors to this fair state are 
likely to do so. For contrary to C of C 
proved reports that here the sun shines 
some part of practically every day in the 
year, the thermometer does drop sur- 
prisingly at times, and fur coats, ga- 
loshes and sturdy raiment should be a 
basic p?.rt of your travel wardrobe. 

First, consider that the suit is your 
wardrobe's beginning . . . with tailored 
shirts, sweaters, and at least one dressy 
blouse which may do double duty with 
a long dinner skirt . . . then choose a 
warm coat to complete your most func- 
tional outfit. The new three-piece en- 
sembles, suit-and-brief -topper, is a won- 
derful selection, but you may prefer a 
longer coat that looks equally well over 
a suit or dresses. A fur coat, of course, 
is the luxury choice. 

With all the holiday functions sure 
to invite your attendance, you'll want 
your December wardrobe to include one 
one of those wonderful knits or bright 
wools . . . possibly with metallic shine, 
with jewels or sequins that sparkle. The 
holiday prints, too, are gay travel com- 
panions. Formal clothes are optional, 
depending of course on your own social 
plans for the season, but if ever there 
is a time to dress up . . . it's Christmas! 

The little suit hat, the tiny flirtatious 
dinner bonnet, the snug little "softie" 
for motoring ... a new smaller hand- 
bag . . . walking shoes for sight-seeing, 
frivolous fancies for evening . . . 
scarves and gloves and accessories ga- 
lore to increase the versatility of all 
your clothes. 

Remember, in December you're likely 
to have both summer-warm and crisp- 
cold weather with possibly a rainy day 
or two. You can get to the desert in 
a matter of minutes and you'll need 
play clothes . . even a swimsuit there! 






Average Maximum 



Average Minimim 









Percentage Sunshine 







THE CALIFORNIAN, December, 194! 

Left to Right: Cable-stitched Cardigan, 11.00 • Men's Imported 
Cashmere Pullover, 18.00 • Diamond Quilt ie, 14.00 • Imported Cashmere 
Slipon, 13.00; shown with Imported Cashmere Cardigan, 17.00 

-•« color folder showing older Catalina Sweaters, write Dept. 565, Caialma. Inc.. 443 South San Pedro Slreet. Los Angelas 13. California 





A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Inc. 


Rep. U. S. I | 

New Pattern ror run. ..swim-to-soiree ensemble oi ribbon-striae 

on. LJeitly maneuvered by Cole oi C.aliromia...kef>t j^enectly in line with lastex. 

suit. l'2.Q5. C-abana skirt. 10.Q5. lJress. 1Q. Q5. Omall, medium, large. Peacock 

me, cbamf>agne witb rose, mauve witb green. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949 



MERRY SUNSHINE • For a perfect Jay, tkis perfect 
dress, to enkance your perfect beauty! Cotton ckam- 
bray striped in sunskine colors : blue and pink, 
yellow and brown, salmon and grey. 10 to 18. $12.95 

BRIGHT STAR "So stunning you'll stop traffic 
. . . like a policeman's krigkt star ... in your doodle 
stripe spun rayon witk wkite cotton pique collar and 
cuffs. In rainkow-kued prints. 12 to 20. $10.95 

CRACKER JACK • Tke keauty witk tke basket wears 
wkite cotton waffle pique printed witk krown and lug- 
gage; green and kelio; yellow and grey. 10 to 20. $10.95 

BAND SOLO • Striped cotton cordspun, wkite-pique 
trimmed. Blue, wisteria or green striped grey; pink 
striped green. 10 to 20 $8.95 


• DICKEY BIRD * Even dickey birds will wkistle wken 
you wear your suit-like cotton waffle pique witk 
wkite dickey front. Ice cream colors: pink and grey, 
keige and aqua, grey and lime. 12 to 20. !p 10.95 

• Turn to page 70 for a list of stores offering the 
dresses on these pages and the dresses shown on 
the front cover. 


Vol. 6 - THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The California!!. Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U.S.A. Yearly subscription price * J % l S'J£ i 

No. 6 • S3. 00. Entered as second class matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office, Los Angeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3, 1879. 1SW 



' *A 


slim style, fly= front pleat, 
about $8.95 

. ' 


Adjustable waistband, seli = 
belt, about $8.95 


sclf=tclt and pocket tats,, 
about $7.95 

Marvelous separates with simply no end to 
their versatility! Hollywood Premiere designed 
them to choose as you wish, in Vwsley Simpson s 
Super Linami. Colors are beige, navy or 

roseterry, si?es \0 to 18. 

BULLOCK'S, Los Angeles; and fine 
stores everywhere. 


Color-from the days when 
a swashbuckling hero donned a 
brilliant velvet doublet! Ted 
Saval dips into the 16th century 
dye-pot and brings forth this 
gem-studded suede shoe in thoroughly 
Californian glowing colors. 
Flat wedge $12.95, medium 
high wedge $14.95. The exactly 
matching suede bag by 
Theodor of California $12.95. 


The Colors: 













January, 1949 


Cruise casual ... to wear now and 

in spring . . . with patch pocket accent 

at hipline and sleeve. Leather belt. 

Introducing Minx by 

the new rayon and acetate fabric blended 
with genuine mink. 

Sizes 10 lo 20. 

Natural, aqua 

and mauve pink. 

To retail 

about $45. 

"Couturier Fashions Moderately Priced" 


Available at following stores: 

Daniels & Fisher — Denver, Colo. 

Charles F. Berg — Portland, Ore. 

Levy Bros. — Houston, Tex. 

or write for name of store nearest you. 



YOU'RE 50 

in Barney Max 
California Coordinates 

designed with a special flair for travel. Barney Max, in his superb 

California manner, tailors BOTANY MARCH AN WOOL GABARDINE 
in exciting new fashions to give you "quick change" charm here, there 
and everywhere. Three, to interchange as you will: Two-piece suit dress, 
about 50.00 . . . Cardigan topper, about 50.00 . . . Matching skirt, about 15.00 

Colors: Beige, Ivory, Ash Pink, Parrot Green, Greige, Black, Brown, Royal, Navy. 

All in sizes 10 to 18. 

barney max 


407 East Pico Los Angeles 15, California 


anuary, 1949 

d SBC**"* w . Hed btA-r*., 

sun *»*? eoia-of"- 

Cakex </ own Sea Bra 
accents this youthful 
Modern Classic. The 
elasticized fabric is 
wonderfully striped 
Sunflame in lovely Sun 
Shades of White, Pink, 
Yellow, Green, Royal, 
Tourmaline Blue, 
Sizes 10-20, $15.95. 

Write and we'll tell you where . . . 
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4 



standing technical and utility improvement 
over ordinary sunglasses, Mirro-Lens reflects 
the rays before they contact the lens. It 
eliminates 96% of the harmful rays, so eyes 
relax completely in the strongest glare and 
dazzle of water, ice, snow or beaches. Of 
finest quality 6-space lens, optically ground. 
Gold-filled frames and mother of pearl nose- 
piece. Mirro-Lens Goggles are ideal for men 
or women. You'll want to order yours now, 
S15.00 postpaid, plus 2 l / 2 % sales tax in Cali- 
fornia, 3% in Los Angeles, from The Mar- 
gorita Shop, 1018 S. Main St., Los Angeles 
15, Calif. 

TIDY TOES ... the California Tabbies 
with two-button back closing. These adorable 
foot-mittens are so comfy you'll forget you 
have them on . . until you hear the compli- 
ments they rate! For lounging, dorm, patio 
and pool. Tabbies are styled for wearability. 
Softest satin in black, white or pink; and 
quilted chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. 
Sizes S-M-L. Send check or money order 
for $3.95 (plus 10c tax in California, 12c 
in Los Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018 
South Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 


Willys of Hollywood creates hand-appliqued 
chenille dots on sheerest Dupont nylon. The 
cleverest hosiery accent we've seen . . . per- 
fect for cocktail and evening wear. In sandal- 
foot or semi-sandal, seamfree or full fashion. 
Confetti Candy Buttons come in chocolate, 
raspberry, cherry, lemon, orange, lime or 
blueberry on new '49ers shades: pay dirt; gold 
dust; mica brown; rose quartz; red earth; 
or shovel tan. Sizes 8 to 11, $5.00 at B. Alt- 
man's, New York; May Company Wilshire, 
Los Angeles; Baker's, Minneapolis. Or write 
Willys of Hollywood, 1141 N. Highland, Hol- 
lywood 38, Calif. 

ROUND-THE-POLE . . . patio table cloth. 
A summery reminder is this gay table cloth 
. . . just throw it 'round the pole and zip it 
up! Hand-printed in attractive basket weave 
of mercerized cotton, richly colored in red 
and white; blue and white; or green and 
white. It fits any garden table, round or 
square. Just $4.95 postpaid. Californians add 
2Y 2 % sales tax, 3% in Los Angeles. Match- 
ing ready-hemmed napkins, 18" wide, just 40c 
each. Send your orders to The Margorita 
Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 
15, Calif. 

SPATTER SHIELD . . . here's a wonderful 
innovation for cooking pleasure. An enter- 
prising housewife designed this Spatter Shield 
to keep her stove and walls clean by shielding 
them from cooking grease and splatters. Now 
it's available to all of us. A "kitchen must" 
to enjoy spotless kitchens and yet fry chicken, 
steaks, chops and fish crisply in the open 
... it fits neatly around the sides and back of 
any skillet, folds into a small flat package 
for easy storage. A real buy at $1.00 post- 
paid. Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Bev- 
erly Hills, Calif. 








V*^ — 

SHADOW BOXES ... of California red- 

■ wood. You"ll want to be the interior decorator 

with these lovely shadow boxes, the answer 

j" to "where to keep it." For knick-knacks 

photos, plants, perfumes, miniatures, toys, 

spices. 12" square. 3*4" deep. Leave them 

(natural, paint or stain any color. Set of two 

I Interlocked boxes, $1.75; two sets, §3.25. 

(Postage paid, add 2 1 / 4% sales tax in Cali- 

llfornia, 3% in Los Angeles. Fred L. Seymour 

llco., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 


(flowered chintz, parasol-shaped, is this en- 

jtirely handmade knitting bag. You'll use it 

I jat home, at the beach, for traveling. Plastic 

I (tubing inside contains slots for 12 knitting 

I (needles, with center designed to hold 2- 

pointed needles . . . and ample room for a 

jfull dress pattern! 16" high, $4.50, and 22" 

!$6.00 postage prepaid. (Californians add 2'/ 2 % 

[sales tax). Send color choice — yellow, black, 

I gray, green, pink or blue predominating — 

jand check or money order to Mary Frances of 

(California, 8881 W. Pico, Los Angeles 7, 



:this luxurious hat and bag set, of rich im- 

'ported suede. The beret is smartly styled for. 

Imany-way wear, and the huge "Feed Bag" 

I is taffeta lined and 12" deep. A beautiful 

llsuede set to accessorize your suits and coats, 

I in red, brown, gray, yellow, bronze, green, 
i 'French blue or sapphire blue. Beret sizes 21- 

! 21 1/4-22-2214-23. Just 818.50 for both beret and 
I bag, including excise, plus 25c for mailing. 
i(2l,4% sales tax for Californians). Send your 
I color choice and hat size with check or money 
j order to The Margorita Shop, 1018 S. Main 
! St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

I SALAD MISTRESS . . . you'll want for 
! yourself, and for your friends, this six-piece 

I I set of California pottery. It includes oil and 
. vinegar cruets, mustard jar with cover and 

spoon, salt and peppers, all on an easy-to- 
I handle plastic tray. Colors to match your 

kitchen, patio or barbecue: Red and white; 
J maroon and green; blue and white; or tur- 
I quoise and yellow. Just $2.00 plus 25c for 
1 mailing if outside of California. Add 214% 
! sales tax (5c) for California delivery. Or- 
Iders are promptly filled by Fred L. Seymour 

Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

iSU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . 100% 

j all power net nylon, even sewed with nylon 

1 thread, finished with nylon tape, and nylon 

1 elastic garters. Dries in 4 short hours, fits 

I so well that squirming and yanking are things 

of the past ... no revealing seamlines under 

| slickest dresses. You'll have smoother, pret- 

! tier hip lines with this Su-Z Girdle. (Pho- 

toed by Lee Angle). Step-in or pantie 

; (shown). Postpaid, in nude or white, just 

$10.95. Send measurements of your waist, 

tummy, thigh, over-all weight, and height to 

Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon Ave., Los Angeles 43, 

; Calif. 


k*?^i . far*- * v ^?« 

Caltex own 2-in-l Classic 
flatters and assures the 
freedom of a two-piece 
and security of a one-piece 
swimsuit. Its Sun Fabric 
is elasticized Jacquard. 
The Sun Shades are 
Chalk Pink, Tourmaline 
Blue, Pastel Yellow, 
Champagne. Sizes 10-20, 

Write and we'll tell you where... 
Caltex of California • Los Angeles 4 

January, 1949 


818 s. broadway, los angeles 14, California 

produced by helen kopp 

A sophisticated Chinese Print 
in fine Rayon Crepe, Predom- 
inating colors are Coral . . . 
jade or Aqua Glaze blue. 
Sizes 12 to 20 . . . Style 994 
. . . Retail at 29.95 

mid season refreshment in a Chinese print 

For a list of the stores where this dress may be purchased, please turn to page 69. 



Dormitory delights . . . this matching shortie gown and pajamas in multi- 
filament crepe with French Val lace: Lady Helen of California originals in 
junior and regular sizes. At better stores. 

OF CALIFORNIA • 417 East Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles 

a (<wLk«(»- vjuiaAifij 

JANE INDORF enjoys a life few teachers 
would envy. Behind barbed wire and gun 
towers, she daily instructs a class of juve- 
nile felons at the California Vocational In- 
stitution on the edge of the hot Mojave. 
Vitally interested in the state's rehabilita- 
tion program, Miss Indorf numbers among 
her charges . . a hypnotist and a crooner. 

JADE SNOW WONG, illustrious product of San Francisco's 
Chinatown, worked her way through Mills College, intending 
to be a social worker. Switched in midstream to ceramics after 
a summer course in the arts. Now renowned for her applica- 
tion of enamel to metal, one of the Wong pieces is on perma- 
nent exhibition in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. 

ADELINE HANSON is a disc jockey . . one 
of the few women to capture a spot on the 
California ether waves. Her "Composer's Cor- 
ner" is for the hep and she interviews music 
makers from radio, movies and records. Red 
Norvo proved to be the most shy of her special 
guests. He merely nodded "yes" and "no." 

NIPO STRONGHEART, field representa- 
tive of the national Congress of American In- 
dians, started in show business with Buffalo 
Bill at the age of 11, appeared in movies in 
1905 and today is a top technical advisor for 
the film industry of Hollywood. He won't 
permit Indians to portray characters detri- 
mental to the race. Scalping savage you see 
may be an Italian, a Pole, or an Irishman. 




MICHELE, the perfumer, came to Hollywood 
from Vienna and Nazi prisons, turned a hob- 
by into a profitable business. Here, she blends 
a personal and subtle scent for ELEANOR 
PARKER. She created "Mink" for Rita Hay- 
worth and "Brown Derby" for Errol Flynn. 



Italian bilk Shantung. as a Renaissance masterpiece... deitly tailored 
by Maurice K,verett or Calilornia into a sott dress that sculptures your figure along" 
tne most contemporary lines. In OJDode red, jade green, (Draline, sandalwood, peacock 
blue. Sizes 12 to 18. 4Q.Q5 ■ casual clothes, fourth floo* 




THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949 





trim, clean-lined in .newsmaking 
grey or in faded blue, trimmed 
with red; zipper = closed pockets. 
Sanforized. Sizes 10 to 18. 

eton jacket, 4.95 

skirt, 4.95 

3-way jacket, 7.95 

pedal pusher, 4.95 

not shown.- 

boy shorts, 3.95 

sunback dress, 7.95 

reversible halter, 2.95 

strapless boned halter, 2.95 

slacks, 4.50 


plus 2'/2% state sales tax 
Buffums' Sun-Charm Fashions"* 
\eg. U. S. Pat. Off. 




t leuji&L-. selection . . . 

IRRESISTIBLE .'. . as the "extra" 
little dress in your luxury wardrobe, or 
as a practical basic for tovvn-and-coun- 
try. Designed by California Creator 
BETTY MOHILEF in sensationally- 
new fabric SUGAR TWIST by 
)@&> in man- 


darin red, temple jade, locust tan, aqua 

glaze, navy. 

Sizes 10 to 20 . . . it's under $15 

WOODWARD & LOTHROP, Washington, D. C. THE WM. H. BLOCK COMPANY, Indianapolis, Indiana E. GOTTSCHALK & 
COMPANY, INC., Fresno, California HALE BROTHERS, San Francisco, California COYLE & RICHARDSON, Charleston, W«sf 
Virginia CHARLES F. BERG, Portland, Oregon ROSENBAUM'S, Elmira, New York L. L. BERGER, INC., Buffalo, New York. 


January, 1949 


945 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles 15, California 



the Second Edition of 





for your 



The first edition of California Cooks sold out. 

Here's the Second Edition . . Twice as Large . . with more than 100 
delightful California recipes . . dozens of exciting menus for every 

Discover the magic of new and interesting hors d'oeuvre, herb and 
wine cooking, picnic and barbecue dishes, the favorite dishes of 
Hollywood and Chinatown, how to prepare economy meat dishes, avocado 
surprises, wonderful salads . . tempting dishes that slenderize. Re- 
printed specially from the articles appearing in The CaMfornian. 
The New California Cooks is a treasure to keep in your kitchen, an 
appreciated gift for your friends. A boon for the bride-to-bel 

Simply fill in the coupon below and mail with $1 for each copy, postage 
paid by us, to 


To: The 

mail my cop 

1020 S. 
ies of 

Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cc 







d is 



for □ 

, State and Zone) 
copies at $1 each. 

What Makes Los Angeles Grow? 

"City Makers" Tries To Explain Phenomenal Rise 

by hazel alien pulling 


Mnderella-like in quality, the story of Los Angeles has for 
adults all the appeal that a fairytale has for your.ger readers. 
Remi Nadeau, descendant of pioneers, has caught the mystical 
tone of the city's development in City Makers (Whittlesey. 
$3.50), an account of Los Angeles' rise from the isolated, 
squat, adobe village that it was in the 1860's to the thriving, 
modern city that it is today. Why did Los Angeles rise so 
rapidly where and when it did? Who was responsible? City 
Makers provides the answers. It was men, the book shows 
. . men, dreaming, fighting, falling, yet rising again and 
again, and building, facet by facet . . who created the city 
and gave it its basis for future development. Cattlemen, 
sheepmen, farmers, railroad promoters, harbor developers, 
miners, bankers, businessmen, home builders and statesmen 
pass in review through each succeeding decade, with mobsters, 
ruffians, robbers and renegade politicians forming opposing 
strains. City Makers is a developing story that shows Los 
Angeles forging ahead despite backsets and boom-bursts; it 
is a section of local history told with fidelity to facts and 
with the sure touch of one whose life has been part of the 

Or perhaps adventuring on scenic California backways has 
greater appeal to you. Several books of recent publication 
will increase your pleasures both before and after your ad- 
ventursome spirit has its way with you. There's Otheto Wes- 
ton's Mother Lode Album (Stanford University Press. $5.00), 
nearly 200 pages of pictures of haunts of gold rush days 
with descriptive notes that will guide your wayfaring through 
northern and eastern mountain areas. Josef Muench has just 
added Along Yosemite Trails (Hastings House. $2.75) to his 
other pictorial sketches of places of grandeur and beauty in 
California. And a third delightful book is California Pictorial 
(University of California Press. $10) by Jeanne Van Nostrand 
and Edith Coulter. This book is a collection of originals done 
by travelers, miners, sailors and soldiers who visited Cali- 
fornia from 1785 to 1859. 

San Francisco, of course, will not be left out of your Cali- 
fornia travels, and for that trip Robert O'Brien's This Is 
San Francisco (Whittlesey. $3.75) will guide your steps. 
Charming as San Francisco itself, this book will take you 
through the city from Cliff House on the sea to the hills 
beyond and back to places you will be eager to visit within 
the city. Bits of history, biographical items, and much of 
the color and quiet shading that give San Francisco its unique 
personality are here to lure you and later to remind you of 
delightful days spent in this city on the Bay. 

An earlier day is reflected in the delightful sketches of 
California architecture in Santa Barbara Adobes by Clarence 
Cullimore (Santa Barbara Publishing Company, P. 0. Box 
1050, Bakersfield. 250p. $4.90). From the pen of an archi- 
tect who steeped himself in the spirit of old California in 
order to catch the perfect blend of landscape and building, 
these 45 drawings reveal as much of Spanish California as 
does the historical narrative that accompanies them. California 
on the eve of the American conquest was a world unto itself 
. . a world well caught in this combination art and history 

A clever pamphlet that is at least as Californian as it is 
any other region, and equally as important to her women 
folk, is 200 Ways to Alter a Dress by Virginia Allen Mc- 
Intire. former fashion editor of a leading California magazine 
(Trade Press Room. Los Angeles. 80p. $1). Ideas for length- 
ening, enlarging, trimming, camouflaging, and metamorphos- 
ing dresses all too quickly grown passe are succinctly ex- 
pressed. Graphically delineated in the art of Margery John- 
son, the suggestions given here lend themselves readily to 
nearly-new fashion creations. You will wish to try some of them 
on your own wardrobe. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949 


e set out to provide a shopping 
center for suburban Sacramento. 

And suddenly we're famous! 

True, we did build our shopping center rancho 
style with heavy beams, old lanterns, patios, 
flowers and adobe. And we did plan for all the 
services necessary for comfortable California living. 

But we didn't expect that our 54 friendly 
shops would begin to attract shoppers and 
sightseers from all over the West. 

Nor did we expect to be visited for our 
atmosphere — or to be called quaint 
and unique. 

But all those things have happened to us 
in two years and we are pleasantly 
surprised by the splash. 

So perhaps you would enjoy a visit with us the 
next time you come to Sacramento. 

WHETHER you want to find out how 
silver saddles get that way . . . 

OR what rattlesnake canape' tastes like . . . 

OR how to weave a rug . . . 

OR buy clothes, shoes, sportswear, 
pet food, rattan furniture or an 
old wagon wheel 

COME TO . . . 

in sacramento 

January, 1949 


«*■*-* * 

Smooth 'n shapely for summertime! Graff's zipper-back shorts of Shirley's Mars gabardine and a classic shirt in 
brilliant plaid cotton. 10-20, about $13. Burdine's, Miami; Morrison's, Indianapolis; Bullock's, Pasadena. 


Nobody had ever succeeded in doing it before, 
and there never had been a time when there were 
so many obstacles. That's what people told us 
back in the winter of 1945 when the first issue of 
The CALIFORNIAN was being readied for the 

But we were just naive enough, and just en- 
thusiastic enough to believe that smart people 
everywhere wanted a good magazine devoted to 
California fashions and California living. 

It's a good thing that we weren't smart enough 
to know that nobody would buy a magazine from 
and about California. It's a good thing we didn't 
know that it was impossible to buy paper then, or 
to find a printer big enough to undertake a one 
hundred thousand run of a big, national, smartly 
done consumer magazine. For had we known these 
things we would not, with this issue, be com- 
mencing our fourth successful year of publication. 

The obstacles were there, all right. It was true 
you couldn't buy paper. But we bought it anyhow. 
It was true you couldn't find a printer big enough. 




hearted as a skylark, and 
as much at home in the 
sun . . these ruffle-lovely 
dresses by Lady Alice of 
California. Pastels, in 
Bales chambray with 
touch of white rick-rack. 
Sizes 10 to 20, about $15 
each. See page 70 fnr 
stores nearest you. 

we used four printers. They were strung up 
and down the coast from San Francisco to San Diego 
and "skids" of paper and printed forms were being 
vj shuttled back and forth. Then one day a truck, 
I racing down from our San Francisco printer to our 
I Los Angeles bindery with a load of late "forms," 
overturned. But we solved that, too, without a sub- 
scriber ever knowing the difference. There was the 
time when publisher, editors, fashion directors, pho- 
tographers, advertising salesmen and the office boy 
all had to pitch in on Saturday and Sunday nights 
to bind The CALIFORNIAN by hand in order to get 
it out on time. One of our printers had to stop work 
because of a strike. Others raised their prices out 
landishly while the forms were actually on their 
presses. It was rough at every turn and we were 
sick at heart. 

So, we bought our own printing plant. Today 
ours is one of the largest printing establishments in 
California and everything is under one roof: Editing, 
publishing, printing, advertising, art, photography 
and bindery. Even our own circulation department 
handles your subscriptions and mails the magazine 
to subscribers in every state in the Union and 
twenty-one foreign countries. 

In our naivete we stumped the experts. All we 
knew was that California fashions and the Cali- 
fornia way-of-living had caught on all over the coun- 
try, but had been without a competent spokesman. 
We heard your call and answered it. You have jus- 
tified our faith in you and made it possible for us 
to do it when it couldn't be done. With this in- 
spiration which you have given us, we have at- 
tained an early maturity. We enter our fourth suc- 
cessful year with exciting new plans in store for 




FASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 

MEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf 

FASHIONS Jacquelin Lary, Edie Jones, 

Helen Ignatius, Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Alice Carey, Hazel Allen Pulling 

A"T .Morris Ovsey, John Grandjean, 

Ann Harris, Jane Christiansen 



FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 





california fashions 

Smooth 'n Shapely 2d 

Spring Predictions 23 

We Believe in Scallops... 24 

We Believe in Batiks 26 

Fabrics Make News 28 

Esther Williams Swim Suit 31 

For Spectator Sports _ 36 

Season and Sunshine Fashions 38 

Court The Sun 40 

Accessories 42 

For Town and Country 44 

Four Part Harmony 46 

Be Bold and Bare 53 

Previewed at Palm Springs 54 

For Afternoon 55 

Formal Fashions 56 

For Dancing or Romancing 58 

Queen of Hearts 60 

Hats Are So Romantic 64 

California features 

Take a Trip to the Moon 32 

Harry Wagoner. Desert Artist 34 

Some Women Are Like That 52 

California living 

House for California Living 48 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Broun 50 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles IS, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager. 
Empire State Bldg., Room 1014, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre 4-0247; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & 
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 Wesi 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; 
$5.00 two years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per vear outside" con- 
tinental United States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulation. Entered as 
second class matter lanuarv 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under 
act of March 3, 1879. Copyright 1 H9. The Californian, Inc. Printed in I'.S.A. Repro- 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically auihorized. 


wr Mai 









These are the things that characterize California's wonderful sun country clothes, beautifully bare 
and bold . . . clothes you'll want to select right now because they're resort fashions with their own 
sunshine aura to help speed the spring. Whether you're heading for some winter-warm mecca or 
staying at home, we say now is the time to choose your sun country wardrobe . . . now, while 
you can get first selection of all the glorious sun-day clothes which have been sped from the 
sportswear center of the nation to be previewed to you wherever you live. 

(.oofc at and love . . . the wonderful cottons, embossed or iridescent or shining with metallic 
threads . . . pure silk shantungs in bold island prints, or jewel-bright shades . . . fine linens, 
rayons, the frosting of organdy. Colored denims, paisley, calico; batik and new border prints 
to make a pretty pagan of you. And, say we, there can be nothing more exciting than your new 
swimsuit ... in elasticized lace, swimmable velvet, satin and nylon and sharkskin with brand 
new finish and finesse. These are the fabrics of which fashion is made in California . . . where 
motion picture standards of glamour inspire famous designers to make a pretty picture of you. 

Here come the sun country clothes, and now 
the California sun shines on YOU 




We believe scallops are important to your sun country wardrobe. You'll love Pat Premo's toss-on coat of printed Everfast pique 

with your sun dresses, dancing cottons, or as you see it above, left, with its own bra-top pique sunsuit; set, about $45 

at Carson's, Chicago; Wm. H. Block Co., Indianapolis. Cabana dress by Cole of California, about $18 at Carson's, Chicago. 

Opposite, the batiks you'll see at smartest resorts: Tabak of California makes you sun-fun clothes of Mallinson's 

print with sharkskin; mix-matchables total about $72, all pieces at Carson's, Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles. ^ 


We Believe in Batiks for You 

Exotic and daring Batik prints . . . and your bare should 

Be a pretty pagan in these Fuller Fabric costumes in; 

jungle tones, so brand new and so different. Left, Joy Kingst 

sarong set, glamour-wrap skirt over bra-top shorts, under $25 

and her boned sundress and stole, opposite page, right, under j 

both at Carson's, Chief 

Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Mclnerny's, Honolulu. Opposite page,] 

Georgia Kay's Tahitian trio, sequin skirt, about $2 

Carson's, Chicago; Desmond's, Los Angeles; Harzfeld's, Kansas! 



Fabric makes news for your 1949 swimsuit . . . previewed in California, these are the exciting innovations of the season: Catalina's 
strapless suit with mitred cables on elasticized Celanese, about $20; elasticized lace so naughty-but-nude, by Caltex, about $20. 





Bare as you please, wired bra for extra security, it's Rose Marie Reid's sharkskin suit, about $20. Unbelievable but true, 
swimmable velvet by Cole of California, about $18. Swim-and-show suits, with optional halter ties, at Carson's, Chicago. 


One piece or two? . . . satin lastex is like your second skin in these two-color swim-easy suits from California. Above, left, 
"Pagliacci" classic, by Mabs of Hollywood; about $17 at B. Altman, New York; J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago. 
And for the girl who prefers a midriff brevity, Elon of California, right, presents a form-flattering suit, about $13. 


Who better than Esther Williams knows what a woman needs and a man likes in a swimsuit? Here is her own suit 

created by Cole of California after months of swim-testing by the famous M.G.M. star soon to be seen in "Neptune's Daughter." 

In elasticized matelasse, the suit is cut for extra swim security and comfort, is a perfect show-off. About $18 at Carson's Chicago. 


Up and up to the observatory . . 
a long pull if you're pedalling 

They ride past the Greek Theatre 
in Los Angeles' vast Griffith Park 

Peggy Ann Wagner and Jo Anne 
Robert start trek from park entrance 

one cameraman and 
two pretty girls portray 
the graphic story of 
a pilgrimage to famous 
griffith observatory . . . 
a "trip to the moon" 

The beautiful buildings represent Col. Griffith's contribution 
to science . . thousands enjoy the exhibits and dramatic show 



Don't let the high cost of living bother you. For 
50 cents you can take a trip to the moon! 
Every week in Los Angeles nearly 5000 persons com- 
press days . . even years . . into minutes as they enjoy 
the spectacle of a space trip to a planet . . and back 
. . in one golden hour at the famous Griffith Observa- 
tory, high in the Los Feliz Hills. Beneath the 75-foot- 
high dome of a circular room are the lunar projec- 
tors, the planetarium, and Dr. Dinsmore Alter, ob- 
servatory director and commentator, dramatically 
combined to take the public on an astronomical tour 
never to be forgotten . . to witness stars and planets 
and the earth . . all in proper relation and proportion 
to our life as ordinary human beings. 

The Griffith Observatory, gift of Col. Griffith J. 
Griffith, and operated by the Los Angeles City Recrea- 
tion and Park Department, is a million-dollar monu- 
ment to our never-ending thirst for knowledge. Nine 
times a week the public treks up the winding road 
through Griffith Park to see "the show" . . the sensa- 
tional product of many years of planning, of perfect- 
ing amazing instruments of projection. And the show 
may vary, month to month, from "Under The Southern 
Cross" to "Comets and Meteors" or "The Christmas 
Star." The mission of Dr. Alter. Technician George 
W. Bunton and the eight regular members of the 
staff is to interpret physical science, especially as- 
tronomy, to the public who maintains the program. 

In addition to the projections of space wonders, the 
public has the opportunity to visit the Hall of Science 
at the observatory . . see the $25,000 moving model of 
the Mount Palomar telescope, the Foucault pendulum 
that gives proof to the earth's rotation on its axis, 
the collection of meteorites, models of planets and the 
cyclotron that was used in making the first atomic 
bombs. The huge telescopes, too, are available on 
clear nights for a real, live look at the moon and 
the stars. 

The Californian. on these pages, takes you with 
Peggy Ann Wagner and Jo Anne Robert on an after- 
noon bicycle ride to the Griffith Observatory . . a Trip 
To The Moon . . past the beautiful trees and planting 
in the park, past the noted outdoor Greek Theatre, 
up and up, to the planetarium and observatory that 
comprise one of America's prized possessions . . 
dedicated to the study of the infinite and man's quest. 

A model of the cyclotron used to make the first atomic bombs is 
one of the principal attractions in observatory Hall of Science 

Through turnstiles into the Hall of Scie 
the observatory and the "spectacle of spc* 

In "Other Worlds Than Ours" Jo Anne g 
close-up glimpse of Saturn and its many 

A $25,000 working model of Mount Paloir' 
telescope is a wondrous piece to remeofi 

Image of the moon . . 
40 feet in diameter . . as 
it is projected on dome 
of observatory . . only 
3,000 miles from the earth 
and your own naked view 

Foucault pendulum gives proof to A replica of California's own Goose Lake The 12-inch Zeiss telescope brings stars 

theory that earth revolves on axis meteorite is encased for public inspection and obscure planets into exciting focus 

Dr. Dinsmore Alter, 
above, director 
and commentator for 
the lunar shows 



"Worn by Years of Solitude" 

| Harry B. Wagoner, internationally 
famed desert artist, neither looks nor 
acts like an "artist" . . and he has been 
painting for more than forty-five years. 
He has a ruddy desert-tanned com- 
plexion ; wears custom-tailored suits, a 
ten-gallon hat and hand-tooled black 
cowboy boots; lives on a 100-acre ranch 
north of Beaumont during the spring 
and summer and in Palm Springs dur- 
ing the winter; has a wife, three chil- 
dren, a daughter-in-law, a son-in-law, 
and a grandchild nicknamed Smiles; 
would rather eat a New York cut than 
quail ; loves life and thinks that ev- 
eryone, including artists, should have 
a lot of fun. 

He often rides in a taxi when he 
comes into the city, but in the desert 
he either walks or uses his specially 
built sketching car which closely re- 
sembles a New York penthouse on 
wheels. In addition to a large supply 
of oils, water colors, canvas and 
brushes, the car is equipped with ham- 
mock-beds, an ice box, cooking utensils 
and groceries. Indeed, the only modern 
conveniences it seems to lack are an 
electric stove and a television set. Wag- 
oner prefers to cook over wood, and 
looking at the flowers, Joshua trees, 
cactus, mountains, sand, sky and clouds 
is entertainment enough for a man who 

Harry B. Wagoner . . Artist 

'Under Desert Skies" 


Vj i\ J. Xl \J LJ O l-J Harry Wagoner exhibits his vivid paintings at The Desert Inn 

oves the desert. 

The car is indispensable, for with- 
out it he would be unable to spend days 
at a time in remote desert areas, sketch- 
ing and painting. Designed for any 
emergency, the unique auto can maneu- 
ver through the roughest country, and 
even sand dunes present no insuperable 
obstacle. The car is simply converted 
into a tractor by reducing the air pres- 
sure in the tires to twelve pounds and 
encasing them in burlap sacks. 

Wagoner's vitality and zest for life 
ire directly projected in his paintings, 
and although his style is conserva- 
tive, vibrant color and purity and 
strength of line are the outstanding 
qualities of his work. Using the hori- 
jontal line in the majority of his desert 

anvases, he avoids monotony with the 
jse of bold perpendicular accents and 
striking patterns of contrast. With 
solidity of form and a great sense of 

pace, Wagoner's work represents a 
faithful rendering of nature with no 
distortion of form or color. 0. 0. Mc- 
intyre, during a trip through the des- 

rts of the southwest, once wrote that 
he was "sitting in the train and watch- 
ing the Wagoner clouds go by." 

Wagoner's philosophy of life, which 
embraces a sincere love and apprecia- 

ion of the beauty of natural scenery, 

is further reflected in his painting as 
serenity and balance. He believes that 
art should be restful and peaceful and 
finds the current trend toward extreme 
abstraction interesting but not wholly 
satisfying. "If you cannot digest all the 
lovely scenery that has been given to 
us by our Creator," he states, "you 
can exist but not really live on the 
vitamin pill of modern abstract art." 

Many of Wagoner's oil paintings have 
the freshness and spontaneity of water 
colors. When he is planning a new can- 
vas, he first does a quick sketch in wa- 
ter color and after a lengthy "thinking 
period," as he calls it, executes the final 
oil painting. He doesn't believe in put- 
ting in every detail of a scene, but em- 
phasizes the strongest point of interest 
in both color and line and merely sug- 
gests the surrounding material. 

When Wagoner was ten years old, his 
parents gave him a box of water colors 
as a Christmas present, and he has been 
painting ever since. In has early teens 
he left his hometown in Rochester, In- 
diana, and moved to Chicago to study 
with Homer Pollock. When he was six- 
teen an agent from Marshall Field saw 
a group of his water colors in the Pol- 
lock studio and promptly purchased 
them for the store. He was paid thirty 
dollars for the entire group of paint- 

ings, but today a single Wagoner canvas 
runs into four figures. 

After his training with Pollock, Wag- 
oner travelled all over the states and 
in 1927 went to Europe for further 
study. He continued his travels in South 
America. Central America and Mexico, 
but returned to the United States to 
paint the scenery which he considered 
the most beautiful . . the desert coun- 
try of the Southwest. His work has been 
shown not only in the galleries of Bos- 
ton, New York, Chicago and Los An- 
geles, but in museums throughout the 
world, and the Royal Academy in 
London recently purchased one of his 
paintings of the American desert. 

The current exhibit of Wagoner's 
work at The Desert Inn at Palm Springs 
includes many of the canvases done "in 
Mexico, Central America and South 
America, as well as a group of desert 

And rather than hanging the can- 
vases against bare wooden or plaster 
walls, Wagoner, with characteristic 
eclat, has designed a setting for the 
paintings as rich and striking as a 
jewel box by Cartier; each painting at 
the Desert Inn studio has been care- 
fully hung against thick black velour, 
a perfect backdrop for the brilliant 
Wagoner colors. 

I'Bull Dog Mountain' 




Beautiful corded skirt with two pockets, weskit to match, by Royal of California, left. Skirt, sizes 10-20, about $9. 
Weskit, sizes 10-18, about $6. At Carson's, Chicago; Capwell's, Oakland. Right, two-piece dress in Steintex 
seersucker-and-chambray, by Ken Sutherland. Sizes 10-20, about $30. Carson's, Chicago,- J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles. 




season wirn sunshine 

mix we 

Here are the basic ingredients for 
your sun country wardrobe: mix- 
matchables from Hollywood 
Premiere. You start out with a 
different kind of striped shirt (note 
deep sleeve treatment), about 
$11 . . then add pedal pushers, 
nautically tailored and nice, 
above left, about $9, or maybe 
brief shorts, about $8, with jaunty 
jacket, about $18 . . and finally, 
choose slim, pocketed skirt in con- 
trasting color, about $9. Available 
in natural, navy and roseberry 
shades, sizes 10-18, at Carson's, 
Chicago; Bullock's, Los Angeles. 
These are year-round 
favorites, California style! 

If you're the person who prefers a soft dressmaker playsuit, demure little skirt, and you're ready for luncheon, mar- 
then this delightfully simple one-piece play suit's for you! keting, or lazy afternoons. In Celanese print, about $30 
Wide straps: Joseph Zukin of California. Then add the at Carson's, Chicago; Bullock's, Palm Springs. 

Bare bodice, stripes, and a stole . . . three important fash- Here's what you'll love over swim or sunsuit: Turkish toweling 
ion points combined in one sundress with a dozen uses. Showerobe by Normandin. About $10 at Bullock's, Palm 
By Royal of California, under $20 at Carson's, Chicago. Springs; J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago. 


Court the sun, left, ... in Georgia Kay's bare-ly 
beautiful cotton, checked bolero cover-up; 
sizes 10-16. Under $25 at Carson's, Chicago; 
Desmond's, Los Angeles; Dayton's, Minneapolis. 
Flirtatious eyelet embroidery pinafore dress with 
sash that ties in bow in back; by Addie Masters, 
below. Sizes 10-18, about $35 at 
Carson's, Chicago; Meier & Frank, Portland; 
Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. 



A classic dress in Shirley's Topper 

lightweight rayon gabardine 

by Ken Sutherland. Pockets in 

front give torso effect. 

Leather belt and self-covered 

buttons. About $35, sizes 

10-20, at J. J. Haggarty's, 

Los Angeles; Carson's, Chicago. 

Softly tailored, and perfect for 

an active life out-of-doors! 

n e n an 

Frost-white linen for your sun-bright days . . . 

highlighting the crisp loveliness of 

matching shoes and handbag. Flattering 

pumps, sling-back, pastels, too: 

Ted Saval, about $14. Ben Brody over-arm 

handbag, about $19. At better stores. 





The rich splendor of leather in 
glowing spring colors . . . the new 
lemon shade, too! Vic Colton's 
flattering strap sandal, about 
|$9, at better stores. Emmet 
handbag, top grain cowhide, full 
suede lining, about $25. 
Carson's, Chicago. 


For a country outing or all-around-town, two tailored dresses by Ann Gray with classic simplicity and smart pocket 
detail. Left, 10-20. Right, 12-20. About $18. At Carson's, Chicago; Bullock's, Los Angeles; White House, San Francisco. 


Introducing an exciting new fabric, wool shantung, Rosenblum designs another California classic, perfect suit for travel 
all year 'round. Sizes 10-20, about $50. Carson's, Chicago; The Broadway, Los Angeles; B. Altman & Co., New York. 


Four-part harmony to key your wardrobe . . . 

Barney Max deftly blends Botany's Tumble Tweed, 

Marchan gabardine. Left, shortie coat, about $45. 

Above, flattery in a gabardine classic, about $50. 


Keeping perfect time to your tailored theme . . . left, 
Barney Max tweed coat, with gabardine edging, about $70. 
Right, tweed-top suit, gabardine skirt, about $50. Matching colors, 
sizes 10-20. At Carson's, Chicago; The Broadway, Los Angeles. 


This House Brings 
The Outdoors In 




Y^«p ! ----- I » 

n Li' PArco 




m r 



jjurton Schutt, designer, creat 
jW the fabulous Bel-Air Hotel 

/ • Southern California on a ridi: 

A | stable lot . . replete with cole 

convenience and the flora a: 
fauna of South America and romantic F 
cific isles. Then he designed a lovely 1 
tie house for himself, nearby, on Sto 
Canyon Road, to further express his "P 
cific Style" of coordinated architects 
interior and exterior planting. These pag 
glimpse the smaller brainchild of the m; 
who plumps continually for the Californ 
Way of Life . . who decries the poun 
forms of convention and the grey-dri 
houses of the prairie. 

Three thousand square ,feet of natui 
woods and plants andvngenuity in tl 
one-story "outdoor" home give ample e 
dence of elbow room, yet the elements • 
the house, planned as separate entitif 
combine into California Living on a sh 
pie, yet beautiful scale. Planted areas co 
nect each part of the house with the ne: 
A master bedroom, two additional be 
rooms, sitting room-study, library, dinii 
nook, kitchen, maid's room, lanai and pat 

The living room-lanai of this Bel-Air home is blessed with the warmth of nature and of wood 
Sheltered patio, shown at lower right, affords privacy and beautiful view of all outdoors 

plan provides for related separate structures 

ill are interrelated in the overall 
ling to take maximum advantage of 
ind air and "green things growing." 
roughout the house the visitor is im- 
ed and delighted with the copious 
f woods in their natural texture, plant- 
where walls and doors could have 
Burton Schutt will tell you that the 
was constructed of humble materials 
) prove that proper planning, plant- 
md fenestration achieve an elegance 
s not always found with the expendi- 
frl of large sums of money. The dra- 
nk raised fireplace in the lanai. for 
Ifple. is made of a specially cast con- 
ti block to resemble flagstone; the 
lated wall was constructed of random 
Illness pine strips; dining room walls 
raof birch, and lattices in both house 
hi garden create a filtered light and 
■ring areas for plants as well. 
r here's the usual utility, too. but let 
life pictures tell their story. Let the sun- 
||e in . . invite the beauty of nature 
6 pip furnish your house . . adapt these 
Bos for your own . . live like the Cali- 
oians do! 

Top, left, shows comfortable simplicity of the study . . with access to light and air 

Top, right, displays lanai wall and steps to the dining nook beyond 

Middle, left, novel dressing room off master bedroom has windows and skylights, too 

Middle, right, master bedroom with its glazed opportunity for letting outdoors in 

Lower, left, shows dining nook off lanai with built-in bench and lattice 

Lower, right, boy's bedroom with work table, wall map, book shelves and easy chairs 

And at left is one corner of the patio displaying geometric design and cooling lattice 

' J 

A good cook would as soon find herself without butter 
or flour as to have an empty lemon bin. That's not 
because lemons are the main ingredients of lemon 
pie or lemon jelly or whiskey sour (how did that get into 
the kitchen?), but because they are so absolutely indis- 
pensable in many dishes. They are the bit of magic that 
makes something very special out of something everyday. 
A few drops of that lovely juice in a curry, a thin amber 
slice floating on a bowl of chicken soup, a transparent 
wedge giving character to a dish of prunes . . . the lemon 
enlivens everything it touches. The Romans, who were 
supposed to be civilized, used them only as a means of 
driving away moths, but as they ate mice dipped in honey 
and a sauce made of goodness-knows-what parts of very 
ripe fish, their taste in food is a trifle suspect. Sydney 
Smith, on the other hand, who knew more than a thing 
or two about food, spoke in contempt of a place that was 
"twelve miles from a lemon" . . the ends of the earth, 
no doubt. 

Lemons were said to have been brought to California by 
the Spanish adventurers, not by the Mission Fathers. That 
is a considerable relief to those of us who were beginning 
to wonder if the good Father Serra had a fleet of ten- 
ton trucks in which to cart all the trees and plants that 
he was supposed to have brought to the Golden State. But 
no matter how lemons got here they have certainly made 
themselves at home. California now raises ninety-five per 
cent of all the lemons used in the United States. Lemons 
require a more even climate than do oranges and they 
also require a tremendous amount of pampering. The 
California Fruit Growers Exchange . . Sunkist to you . . 
knows just how to treat them: they literally handle them 
with gloves. Picked when they're green, they're clipped, 
not pulled, from the trees, graded and given a gentle bath. 
Then they are allowed to rest in air-conditioned rooms, 
and finally swathed in that familiar yellow tissue wrapper 
and shipped to every part of the world. A lemon tree, 
which bears all year round, is a mighty handy thing to 
have in your kitchen yard, but as everyone can't live in 
California, the next best thingk is to have a dozen or so 
California lemons always on hand. 

The lemon, though first cousin to the orange, has con- 


siderable more character, and. like people with definite 
personalities, a little goes a long way. That is why this 
business of a recipe calling for the juice of half a lemon, 
or three lemons, is a risky business: too large a lemon 
might make the dish too acid, too small a one may not 
give the needed tang. Lemon sizes vary from the huge 
240's (240 to a box, that is) to the smallest 540's, so 
that it's easy to see that when a recipe calls for the juice 
of one lemon it ain't necessarily so. 

The whole country has taken up the salad called, vari- 
ously, Caesar, Di Cicco, and Calif ornian; the salad that 
depends upon a lemon for its charm. Here's another 
similar salad . . one that uses no vinegar at all and thus 
depends even more on that delightful fruit, the lemon. 

SALAD RITCHIE This salad requires a little advance 
preparation: make a cupful of croutons by cutting bread in 
half-inch cubes and baking in the oven untilthey are crisp 
and brown. Cook an egg for exactly one minute. Grate 
some Parmesan cheese so that you have a half cup. Wash 
two large heads of romaine and put them in the crisper. 
Peel and dice a large cucumber. Now for the mixing: rub 

your largest salad bowl with a cut clove of garlic. Rub 
hard so that the garlic will literally disappear. Dry the 
romaine and break it into the bowl. Add the cucumbers, a 
cup of sour cream, and a teaspoon of salt, two table- 
spoons of melted butter, several grindings of black pepper 
and the coddled egg scooped from the shell. Squeeze the 
juice of two lemons over the egg and mix well (squeezing 
the lemons directly into the salad is part of the ritual 
so the juice can't be measured. Let's say that the lemons 
are medium-sized ones.) Now add the cheese and mix well. 
At the very last minute toss in the croutons, give the 
salad another turn or two and serve. And I'm the gal who 
has said that you can't make a proper salad without olive 
oil and wine vinegar! 

Does the idea of serving potatoes with lemon juice shock 
you ? Try this once and I promise you it won't. 

tatoes either peeled or not as you prefer and dress them 
with a sauce made by melting a quarter of a pound of 
butter and adding a teaspoon of grated lemon rind, salt, 
pepper, four tablespoons of lemon juice and a tablespoon 
of minced chives. This is really something. 

The lemon is a saucy little fruit and there are precious 
few sauces that can get along without its presence. From 
that simplest of all, pure lemon juice, to the elaborate 
compound sauces made with an Espagnole base, it is the 
| lemon that points up the flavor. Here's one of the easiest 
and most famous: 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER Cream a quarter of a 
| pound of butter and work in three tablespoons of lemon 
juice and the same amount of minced parsley. Add the 
merest speck of cayenne and serve with fish or any grilled 
meats such as steak, chops, liver, kidneys or spareribs. If 
you wish, the butter may be formed in balls with wooden 
paddles and rolled in the parsley. Pretty. 

Recipes for barbecue sauces are a dime a gross and 
most of them, for my money, worth not a penny more. 
This is because so many of them are too searingly hot. This 
one. made with lemon juice, brings out, rather than drowns, 
the flavor of the meat. 

of lemon juice, salt, pepper and a tablespoon of minced 
parsley. Cut the steak into long strips after it has been 
grilled to your taste and pour the hot sauce over it be- 
fore serving. And if you're cussing at my extravagance, 
use salad oil instead of the olive oil and serve it on ham- 
burgers. It's good that way. too. 

Here's another sauce that is quick and easy. Good for 
chops, hamburgers, kidneys. 

LEMON MUSTARD SAUCE Heat a squashed clove of 
garlic in a quarter of a cup of heavy cream. Remove the 
garlic, add two tablespoons of prepared mustard and three 
tablespoons of lemon juice, very slowly. Simmer gently 
for a few minutes before serving. 

Some people seem to think that the lemon garnish 
served with so many meats at fancy restaurants is just 
that . . a garnish. If only they'd flow a little of that lemon 
juice over their broiled chicken, add a squeeze or two 
to their sizzling kidney saute, bless their grilled mush- 
rooms with a few precious drops, they would know what 
the chef was about. A good chef, like a good cook, never 
underestimates the power of a lemon. 

In Georgia they serve a wonderful crab stew that has 
a whole lemon, skin and all. ground up and added. Cali- 
fornians. with their superb Pacific crabs, should certainly 
adopt it. 

GEORGIAN CRAB STEW Make a roux with two ta- 
blespoons of flour and two of butter. Add three cups of 
rich milk and cook for a few minutes. Season with salt, 
pepper, a teaspoon of prepared mustard and a half a 
lemon which has had the seeds removed and has been 
ground very fine. Add two cups of crab meat and simmer 
for another minute or two before serving with hot beaten 

That's just a beginning of what lemons can do for flavor. 
Next time you wonder what's wrong with your pot roast, 
why your mayonnaise isn't perfect, what you can do to 
improve your strawberry jam, stop wondering . . . try 
lemon juice! 


by helen evans brown 

BARBECUE SAUCE Cook a quarter of a cup of minced 
onions and two cloves of minced garlic in a half cup 
each of melted butter, salad oil. tomato catsup, lemon 
juice and tomato juice. Add a quarter of a cup of minced 
parsley, a teaspoon of salt, a half teaspoon of fresh 
ground pepper, a half teaspoon of dr\ r mustard and a tea- 
spoon of oregano. Simmer gently for twenty minutes 
and use to brush on meats, any kind, while they are bar- 
becuing. Try this with chicken and fish, too . . the lemon 
makes it perfect with either. 

Most of the classic meat sauces that are featured on 
the menus of the best hotels and restaurants require Es- 
pagnole sauce as a base. As the making of that sauce is 
a rather involved procedure it will have to be left for 
some future issue of California Cooks. Here, however, is an 
excellent steak sauce that does not need that basic sauce: 

SAUCE THEODORE Cook a quarter of a cup of 
minced onion and a crushed clove of garlic in two cups 
of Pinot Noir (or any red table wine) until the liquid is 
reduced to one half. Remove garlic and add six tablespoons 
of butter, two tablespoons of olive oil, six tablespoons 











just wouldn't do it! I'd put my foot down," Nina Wilson 
exclaimed. Nina's a neighbor of mine, 'though we don't 
see each other often. Our husbands work in Los Angeles and 
we live on adjoining ranches in the Malibu Hills. I'd stopped 
at the Wilson place on my way in to the market to do week- 
end shopping. 

"You mean you're still staying home to cook for a gang of 
people every Sunday?" Nina went on, incredulous. 

"It's not my idea, Nina," I told her. "You know how Dave 
loves to entertain. I feel that he should be able to do what 
he wants to on his one day at home. He likes having his busi- 
ness associates and our friends out to the place, and thev 
seem to thoroughly enjoy spending a day in the country." 

"And let you slave over a hot stove all day, cooking for 
them," she supplied. 

I laughed at that. I could hardly see myself in such a 
role; bedraggled, self-pitying wife, drooping slavishly over 
a hot frying pan. 

"Oh, I'm not the slaving kind." I told her, still laughing. 
"I really don't fuss at all. We entertain most informally al 
our house." 

"Fuss or no fuss, it's work," she insisted. "A man jusl 
doesn't realize how much. Jack's the same way. He'd be 
having someone out here every Sunday too, if I didn't put my 
foot down. Believe me, I think a woman is entitled to a day 
off, the same as a man. Jack even gets up and fixes my break- 
fast on Sunday," she added a little smugly. 

I got out as soon as I could. I simply have no time nor 
sympathy for such martyrdom. Besides, Saturday shopping 
takes hours. Guests come early to our house . . the more 
time to spend hiking, horseback riding, or just being lazy in 
the sun. Whatever the activity, I have to figure on plenty of 

I'd barely flicked the last speck of dust from the living- 
room furniture that evening when Dave drove into the garage. 

"The Wilsons always go out to dinner on Sunday," I re 
marked later that night to the worst side of the funny paper. 
"Nina Wilson never has to cook on Sunday." I said, raising 
my voice. "Jack even fixes her breakfast." 

"H'm? You say something to me?" Dave sat up and handed 
me the funnies. 

"I was just thinking," I began, "that it would be rather 
nice not to have to do anything on Sunday but putter around 
and be by ourselves. And then maybe go out to dinner, some- 
place downtown." 

"We-ell," Dave considered. 

"I'm getting tired of slaving over a hot stove for a gang 
of people very week," I blurted out. 

Dave looked surprised. "Why honey," he exclaimed. "I 
didn't know you felt that way about it. I thought you enjoyed 
it. You always seem to." 

"Well I do," I admitted guiltily. "But it's a lot of work. 
I don't think a man realizes how much. A woman's entitled 
to a day off, too, the same as a man. Don't you think so?" 

Dave got up and went to mix a couple of drinks. "We can 
go into town for dinner if you want to." he said from behind 
the bar. "If you don't mind the traffic." 

That's something. We live just a mile off a scenic high- 
way, and the joy-riders on Sundays are legion. I hate driving 
in such traffic, even more than Dave does. In fact, I've often 
said it would take a date with Walter Pidgeon to get me into 
town on Sunday afternoon. 

Dave has a way. when my little inconsistencies crop out. 
of showing me just how impractical I am. He doesn't say 
so at all. He's really very nice about it. He simply enumerates 
the unpleasant features, and leaves the decision to me. I 
wind up feeling like a neurotic, half-grown woman for hav- 

ing mentioned the thing in the first place. 

Well, the next day went by very much as all our Sundays 
go. I fried chickens and fixed the garlic-bread that everyone 
liked so much. It's the last time. I told myself. I like fun 
and hilarity, the well-mannered kind of course. And as a 
rule I don't mind a bit staying in the kitchen to toss the 
salad and mix the dressing my guests pronounce just right. 
But that day a thin little veil of self pity was floating around 
my head, and it was beginning to flap in my eyes. Finally 
the last car whirled out of the drive. The "swell times" and 
"see you soons" carried across the lawn. 

"Not if I have anything to say about it." I mumbled to 
myself and went back in the house to stack the dishes. 

The next Sunday morning I was wakened by the alarm 
at six o'clock. "Good heavens, Dave." I groaned. "Did 
you forget it was Sunday?" 

"No-o-o," he yawned, reaching for the clock. "I thought so 
long as no one's coming out today. I'd get up and do some 
things around here." 

That meant I'd have to get up, too. I like a leisurely break- 
fast on the terrace, around nine or ten on Sunday. Some- 
times guests arrive while we are still at the table and we 
all have coffee and cigarettes together. 

By the time I got into slacks and a blouse. Dave, looking 
rugged and ready-for-work in levis and a plaid shirt, was 
already in the kitchen fussing with the silex. A scrambled 
egg which looked as if it had been cooked the week before, 
fried harder in a pan on the stove. 

"Wanta pour the coffee?" Dave was disgustingly cheerful 
as he sat down at the bare kitchen table. He beamed at me 
as I placed the mat before him and arranged the silver. 1 
slipped a couple slices of bread in the toaster and pried the 
egg loose from the pan. put it on his plate, poured the coffee 
and sat down at the table. 

"Nice of you to cook breakfast," I said. 

He brushed it„off. "Oh, that's all right. Glad to do it. Anyj 

As soon as he was outside. I poured my coffee in the sink 
and started another pot. I can stand anything weak but coffee. 
All morning Dave wandered about, tapping the fences with 
a stick and petting the cows. About ten I got tired following 
him and hobbled back to the house to lie in the hammock. 
At noon we ate lunch in the kitchen, Dave insisting; that all 
he wanted was a bowl of soup and a glass of milk. It was 
quite different from the usual Sunday lunches of cold cuts, 
potato salad and rye bread, served on the shady terrace with ■ 
beer and gay laughter. After lunch Dave went back to his 
tapping and petting, while I lay in the hammock, listening 
in vain for the sound of a motor. 

At five we came in and showered. I had an eight-pound 
standing rib roast I'd purchased the day before without think- 
ing. I opened the refrigerator door. "Shall we just have 
chops and a salad?" I suggested. "I thought it would be silly 
to cook this big roast." 

"Oh, don't bother." Dave said pleasantly, going to the cup- 
board. "If there's some cream. I think I'll just have a bowl I 
of cereal." 

"Can't I interest you in a Newburg?" I asked. "There's a I 
can of lobster. And we can eat on the patio." 

"No-o-o. I don't think so." he said. "I'm not very hungry. I 
Suppose you sit down and let me fix the supper." 

I don't like cereal and cream, so I drank a glass of milk , 
and ate a cookie. At eight o'clock we'd turned out the bed- 
room light. 

"Well it's been a nice restful day. hasn't it?" Dave yawned 

"Dave." I said, "do you think the Wilsons would fit in with 
the crowd? I'd like to ask them over next Sundav. I don't 
know why. but I feel a bit sorry for Nina." 


f?f f ; 

Be bold and bare your shoulders, or wear the new cuffed neckline in demure cover-up fashion . . . it's a "coke style' 

by Saba of California, in a crisp cotton Fuller Fabric . . . fresh as a breeze with wild geese flying! 

Puffed sleeves, full skirt, wide contrasting sash. Sizes 9-15, it's only about $11 at stores shown on page 70. 


previewed at palm springs 

California has new fashions aplenty for men. The recent Palm Springs Fashion Show 
. . which was devoted entirely to men . . predicted that there will be livelier colors 
and new styles in every man's wardrobe soon. Two of the outstanding styles were 
the tie-front "Picaro" sport shirt designed by Hollywood Rogue and the gold 
and rust jacket-slack-shirt combination shown by M. Jackman & Sons. The plaid 
"Picaro" was inspired by the native style of Old Mexico. It has no shirttails but it 
ties in front, blouse-style. It is washable. About $10. The gold lightweight jacket, 
handst itched in Forstmann Charmain gabardine, has the new half -belt back with 
pleats and shoulder-shirring. In a soft shade of gold it contrasts beautifully with 
the matching rust slacks and shirt. About $95. 

"Picaro," by Hollywood Rogue, is available at: Krupp & Tuffly, Houston; 
Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh; Lip man -Wolfe, Portland; Stewart Co., 
Baltimore; Mclnerny's, Honolulu; T. Eaton Co., Canada; The Fair, Fort Worth; 
Monte Factor's, Beverly Hills; Carson-Pirie-Scott, Chicago, and J. L. Hudson, Detroit. 

The gold jacket by M. Jackman is available at: Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; Leighton's, 
New York; Jerry Rothschild, Beverly Hills; Burdine's, Miami; De Pinna, New York; 
Scholnik's, Detroit; Halle Bros., Cleveland, and Mclnerny's, Honolulu. 


"The one dress" every wardrobe depends upon . . . two versions in sheer 
or tissue failles: Max Kopp. Perfect at home or under coats, lovely at 
tea or the dinner hour. Tucking to mold a pretty figure . . . 
so slim and elegant. About $30, sizes 10-18. Stores listed on page 69. 


BLACK as night, and just as in- 
triguing: the ankle-length cocktail 
dress in crepe, with soft draping of 
French embroidered dotted net and 
one huge black rose at the bosom 
... it is so perfect for New Year's 
Eve and after. By Edith Small. 

Right, soft lights . . and the loveliness of pure ti« 

silk: Georgia Bullock. Sizes 10-16, about 

$75. Bonwit Teller, New York; Kerr's, Oklahoma City. 

n a romantic mood 

For your most dramatic entrance, righi, this boldly 

beautiful dinner dress: Dorothy O'Hara. Exotic 

print fabric: California Authentics. Sizes 1 to 18, 

under $90. Buffums', Long Beach; Bullock's, Los Angeles. 

For dancing or romancing, enchantment in portrait necklines . . opposite page, left and right, new seersucker nylon 
with shawl collar, Viola Dimmitt, about $50 at B. Altman & Co., New York. Opposite page, Center, Marbert's beau- 
catcher of crisp taffeta with plunging neckline, about $50. Available in stores in February. This page, above left, 
multiple-button blouse, flared skirt, by Deauville Models, each about $18, A. Harris, Dallas; Bullock's Los Angeles. 
Above, right, Peggy Hunt's taffeta suit, about $69, Best's Apparel, Seattle. 



Underlining perfections . . . above. 

Beautee-Fit lace and satin bra with Ions 

line feature. Center, satin and leno 

paneled pantie girdle by 

^sel of Hollywood. % Below, lace. 

and satin bra with undercup stitching 

by Form-O-Uth. 


Word-Stringer for Stars 


by marion simms 

Sj rom an $18-a-week studio stenographer, Isobel Len- 
nart has become Hollywood's youngest high-priced 
writer. And she just turned thirty. 

Being in the child prodigy class . . the youngest stu- 
dent ever to enter Smith College . . may have something 
to do with her extraordinary progress as a writer. But 
she thinks it's her one-track mind. Since the days when 
her hair was in braids and her teeth in braces, she has 
been determined to become a screen writer. 

Anchors Aiveigh, Holiday in Mexico, and It Happened 
in Brooklyn carry her name for the screen play . . a 
rarity in a business where a musical staff usually re- 
quires as much footage to list as does the cast. Frank 
Sinatra, who feels that Anchors Aweigh cast him for the 
first time as a "human" character, always asks for Miss 
Lennart on his pictures. And Gene Kelly is equally en- 

Isobel appreciates the compliments, but wants seri- 
ous stories. Like Lost Angel, a B picture which quickly 
was raised to the A brackets after its first trade show- 
ing, and won an award from New York's Metropolitan 
Youth Council as the most original screenplay of the 
year. Based on an idea by Angna Enters, Isobel added 
some touches from her own remarkable childhood. And 
it was this picture that starred Margaret O'Brien for the 
first time, revealed Keenan Wynn's talents as a comedian. 

Right now she is working on an idea she has been 
mulling for some time . . a serious theme concerning 
Pan-American relations. She will call it Remember Me, 
and will do research work at the Rockefeller Foundation 
in New York for some of the background material. 

Daughter of an English woman and an Austrian- 
American doctor, Edward Hochdorf, Isobel uses part 
of her mother's maiden name, Livingston-Lennart, pro- 
fessionally. She traveled widely as a child, but in Eng- 
land, at the age of seven, there was tragedy. A riding 
accident paralyzed a muscle in her thigh. For two years 
she could not walk . . then there was a perceptible limp. 
Only two years ago did she completely recover. 

"I had been protecting my injured leg for years," she 
related, "not realizing that exercise was needed, not rest. 
One day I began to think about all the dancing and 
tennis I had missed. I started exercising regularly, and 
finally I was entirely well." 

With her new husband, John Briard Harding III, 
actor and writer, Isobel is happily making up for those 
lost years of sports and parties. 

She had private tutors during her early school years. 
Lessons were a snap, because of her total-recall memory. 
Luckily, she says, this faculty for mirrorlike memorizing 
faded during college and she had to draw on logic and 
reasoning in her lessons. And because she knew nothing 
of methods in American schools, her father sent her to a 
girls' high school in Brooklyn for six months as a pre- 

liminary to entering Smith. 

Six months were enough for little Isobel to become 
editor of the school paper and to discover what she 
wanted to do with her life. At Smith, then a "progres- 
sive" school, 14-year-old Isobel organized a film group 
to show Russian, French and German films regularly. 

"This was even before it was the vogue to run these 
films in little theatres," said Miss Lennart. "We girls 
studied foreign writers through some of these great 
films, and then sat around and discussed them." She 
studied physics to learn about photography. During 
vacations she persuaded a family friend, production man- 
ager at the old Astoria studio on Long Island, to let 
her work as a script girl. 

After three years at Smith, Miss Lennart returned to 
Manhattan and received her B.A. degree at New York 
University. She was 18, and didn't want to waste any 
more time reaching her promised land of Hollywood. 

"At that time I had a very intellectual approach to 
films," she recalls. "I had studied the productions of 
Eisenstein and the books on screen technique by Paul 
Rothe. I thought a picture must be foreign to be worth- 
while. I soon got over that!" 

In Forest Hills, Isobel's father said "no" to the west- 
ward career trip. Isobel went back to N.Y.U. for her 
master's degree. Her first job was in the research de- 
partment of the Book of the Month Club. By the time 
she was 20 she was both researcher and reader, her as- 
sociates being twice and thrice her age. She was earning 
a good salary, but she never forgot her original ambi- 
tion. Reluctantly, her father finally agreed to a three 
months' trial in Hollywood. 

"I had letters of introduction to some people at 
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and was so thrilled and awed 
to find myself, at last, inside a Hollywood lot that I took 
the first job offered me." 

This was in stenography . . at $18 a week. There 
were baffling, and often humorous, angles to her work. 
After she had been there six months, she wrote an in- 
formal account of her daily work. It was printed in a 
studio publication edited by Nard Jones, one of the 
writers on the lot. 

When the head of the stenographic department read 
this literary effort, Isobel was dismissed. 

"It was actually a disciplinary firing," she said. "In 
a few weeks I had a call to come back to work." By 
then, though, she had jubilantly discovered Fox studio, 
where it was possible for a girl to be a script clerk. 
With her usual intensity, she set about mastering the 
details of this exacting job. Norman Foster, then a direc- 
tor for Fox, let her do a bit of dialogue now and then. 
And after holding the script on B pictures for a couple 
of years, Isobel had an unexpected chance to do some 
writing. A story was needed in a hurry for Jane Withers. 


If she could turn it out in two weeks Isobel was prom- 
ised $100. 

She called the story Small Town Deb, and still thinks 
it one of the best pieces of writing she has ever done. 
She got another $50 for polishing the dialogue after an 
established screen writer had done the script. 

But instead of the impetus she expected after this 
small triumph, Isobel found herself before a high wall. 
There was no job in Hollywood, it appeared, for a writer 
who could turn out $100 stories in a rush. 

She went back to script clerking. To keep up her cour- 
age, she spent her spare time writing a story with an- 
other ambitious young writer. After a day at the studio, 
she would hurry home to work half the night on Once 
Upon a Thursday with Lee Gold. Daytimes she was 
so sleepy that the words of the Hellza Poppin script at 
Universal blurred before her eyes. 

There were nibbles on the finished story, but nothing 
happened. Isobel began to "break down" the scenes 
for Tales of Manhattan, and suddenly knew she couldn't 
stand being a script girl for even one more picture. Papa 
was right. She was going home. She counted her money, 
less than $100, and phoned for a railroad ticket. In a 
mood of great desolation she began to pack. At mid- 
night the telephone rang. The agent handling the story 
had sold it to a producer. Could she postpone her trip? 
Could she! 

"The next morning Lee Gold and I reported for work 
as writers at M.G.M. Lee was 26 and looked about 18. 
I was a couple of years older than he and looked equally 
as kiddish. When we opened the producer's door, he 
took one look and groaned." 

He would be ashamed to introduce them as his writers, 
he explained. People would think he was reduced to 
hiring school children. 

Considerably deflated, they hid themselves in a back 
office and finished their story in the one week's time 
allotted them. Once Upon a Thursday reached the screen 
as The Affairs of Martha and surprised everyone by 
being decidedly successful. Soon after, Gold went into 
the army and Isobel was put to work writing Stranger 
In Town with William Kozlenko. 

When her salary reached the $150 a week level (to- 
day it is four figures) she telephoned her father in 
New York to tell him the good news. 

"That's good," her father said quietly. 

When Isobel remarked that he didn't sound very en- 
thusiastic, there was a long pause, then he said gently. 
"Yes, it is a fine salary, my dear. But does it make 

Now, as Mrs. Harding, the young writer is sketching 
plans for their dream house at Trancas Beach, above 
Malibu. It will be primarily an enormous living room. 
A winding staircase will lead to a workroom-den where 
a huge table will hold their two big noisy typewriters 
. . one at each end. 

A similar room-long table dominates Isobel's Beverly 
Hills apartment, the wood finished in a shade that almost 
matches her tawny blonde hair. "No drawers," she says, 
"because who ever heard of a writer who didn't want 
everything stacked on top for easy reaching." 

Her own writing habit is to relax comfortably on her 
studio couch with a writing board in her lap. After a 
page or two, she transfers it to the typewriter . . all 
to the accompaniment of soft background record music. 

"Dialogue, especially, seems to be more natural this 
way than writing it directly on the machine." 

On the subject of dialogue, Miss Lennart has an in- 
teresting theory: "Each person has a certain rhythm- 
cadence. If the writer can catch that, the dialogue will 
sound like conversation, instead of stilted sentences." 

Frank Sinatra, for instance, has a slow, gentle 
cadence. For him, she writes wandering, incomplete 
sentences. Gene Kelly's, in contrast, is a staccato beat 

Isobel Lennart "almost always" knew what she wanted 

. . zip and zing. 

Although Isobel always has liked to work at home, 
and late at night, she definitely dislikes working alone. 
"I always get lonesome and start thinking of things to 
do, like cleaning out the dresser or baking a cake. Or 
I begin calling up people, anybody, just to hear a human 

Then she got the idea of having a "sitter." They have 
baby sitters; why not writer sitters, she reasoned. 

At first, a young cousin visiting her did the "sitting," 
keeping her at work when she showed signs of wavering 
to a stop for coffee. Later, Isobel had the idea of ad- 
vertising for a sitter. As it turned out, there were a 
surprising number of people around Hollywood and 
Beverly Hills who were pleased to collect a dollar an 
hour to sit in an adjoining room . . with the door ajar 
. . and read, knit, play the radio or make "homey sounds." 

Now that she has a husband-writer, the problem is 
nicely solved. They keep each other at the task of 
stringing words. 

Recovery from her physical disability gives Isobel 
as much happiness as does her amazing film success. 
Lameness during her adolescence brought an inferiority 
complex, and the weight she put on during her years 
of inactivity added to it. The bright spot of that period 
is that she occupied herself with a tremendous amount 
of good reading, directed by her parents. 

"I found out an interesting thing with my recovery," 
she said. "My former spendthrift habits had been a 
sort of compensation for my personal troubles. No mat- 
ter how much money I made, I never saved any. In 
my early days in Hollywood I was always heavily in 
debt. Then, with my leg back to normal and my weight 
slimmed down, my spending sprees vanished." 

Of her early precocity, she said, she fears she was 
more quizzical than quiz-kid. She doesn't wish it for 
any youngster. "You miss the good times of your own 
age-crowd. The one advantage I can see to growing up 
early is that it gives you more time to correct the mis- 
takes of early days." 

Now, at thirty, she feels the best part of her life is 
just beginning. 

Her studio doesn't acknowledge her advanced years. 
As Sinatra is referred to as The Voice, and Marie Mac- 
Donald. The Body. Isobel Lennart is known as The Kid. 





Dress up to romance with a casual air! Hats of felt bedecked 

with feathers, fur and jewels. Opposite page above, 

wings in forward flight by Suzy Lee. Center, velour with 

brilliant feathered bird; Caspar-Davis. Below, 

softly crushed crown with jeweled band from Phil Strann. This 

page left, tiny felt with gay birds; Weyman Brothers. 

Right, pillbox banded with leopard fur, Agnes Originals. 

It's calico with Bates picolay for the young miss, 
by Jean Durain. Above left, midriff and skirt. Center, 
gathered bodice playdress. Right, dress with puff 

sleeves. Lower left, halter play suit. At May Co., 
Los Angeles; A. Harris, Dallas; Wm. Filene's, Boston. 

X he ''eternal triangle"' isn't confined to today's movies . . . and in rather violent 
testimony to this fact, many an early California romance flamed in spite of matri- 
monial obstacles. Worthy of full technicolor treatment was the fiery affair of 
Tiburcio Vasquez, the bandit, and lovely Rosario. This vivacious senora was (un- 
fortunately, for the cause of love) the wife of Abdon Leiva of Chualar. The dashing 
outlaw, hero and idol of native Californians who resented Americans, was often 
sheltered at Leiva's rancho between his numerous raids on the encroaching gringo. 
Gaiety reigned whenever Tiburcio sought refuge there . . . and soon he and 
Rosario had danced their hearts away. Eventually drought brought poverty to 
the rancho and Leiva. persuaded by Rosario's hints of cowardice, reluctantly joined 
the daring band . . . Tiburcio's flashing eyes were enough to whisk senora into the 
life of an outlaw. As the marauding group struck at settlements and withdrew 
into canyon hideouts. Leiva grew increasingly suspicious of the melting glances 
between the pair. Finally he trapped them in loving embrace . . . furious, he 
challenged Tiburcio to a duel. This man of unnumbered sins had, nevertheless, 
a strange code of his own and refused to kill Leiva, which he most certainly 
would do in a contest . . . since he had already offended him by stealing his 
wife. So Rosario was led away, weeping, by her fuming husband . . . Tiburcio 
brooded over his lost love. But not for long. Four posses were trailing the famous 
bandit with the black cloak lined in red, and he and his lieutenant, Chavez, led 
them an exhausting chase through the desert and marshes. At last Tiburcio could 
stand the separation no longer and rode to find his Rosario. He found her 
in the cabin of Jim Heffner, friend of the lawless, and learned that Leiva had 
gone to betray him to the sheriff. The lovers promptly escaped into the night. 
Now, posses thundered over roads north, south, and west . . . Tiburcio Vasquez. 
dead or alive! Rosario fretted constantly of the danger to her lover and pleaded 
with him to flee to Mexico . . . finally he 
promised, "after one more raid." And 
then, just as if the movies had 
ordered it, this reckless avenger 
of the Californians was trapped 
and made captive at Greek 
George's Ranch, which 
is now, fittingly, the 
scene of many a sim- 
ilar denouement . 

by alice carey 

THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949 

button, button. 

who's got the button? 


^LZ It's [charming . . . it's different . . . it's 

— roomy.!> Adjustable shoulder strap, ^ 

inner suede pocket. 

Convenient outer pouch, as well as 
complete bag full-weight suede lined. 

Top grain cowhide in Lemon, Smoke, 
Flame, Green. Burnr Mocha. Black, 
with contrasting buttons. 

Mtdium size about S20.00 plus tax 

Latgc size about (25. 00 plus tax 

Oeagn Pal. Pending 


FROM 11:30 


1 block west of 
Coldwater Canyon 


1 Block north of Wilshire 


. . to yourself! 

• Enjoy a pleasant surprise Every Month 

• Twelve times a year The Californian 
Magazine will bring you enjoyment, 
smart new fashions, interesting ar- 
ticles, California Living, yummy recipes 

• Subscribe Now . . to The Californian 

• Twelve exciting issues for $3; Two 
Years for $5; Three Years for $7.50 

Write to The Californian Magazine 
1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15 



uifts in the 

\jalifornia manner 

HAND-PAINTED BLACKBOARDS: Personalized with your 
first name (or the kiddie's name) too! For the nursery, 
child s board features hand -painted illustration of child 
and balloons; while kitchen blackboard features hand- 
painted fruif . Both boards measure 12x16 inches. $2.95 
each, postpaid. 

TINY-TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very handy 
For bathroom use. Aluminum frame, painted plywood 
steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped fiat, easily as- 
sembled. $3.95 (add 25c for postage). 

TORSO GLASS AND JIGGER: Ceramic Torso Gloss for 
highballs, beer. In the shape of a corset-encased torso, 
and we 1 1 -developed, too. Also use for flowers, plants. 
Colors: green, yellow, pink, blue. $1.25 postpaid. 
Matching ceramic jigger holds 1 -oz. in bust; a double 
jigger in base. $1.00, postpaid. 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, phase add 2 , /?°/ a sales tax.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 




1 n January, you pays your money 
and you takes your choice . . to utilize 
an old bromide to illustrate the versa- 
tility of things to do and see in this 
lead-off month in the new year. Despite 
the promise of a few high fogs (rain to 
you), January will have many a balmy 
day . . and the sports and social pro- 
gram is full to the brim. 

Beginning with the Rose Bowl game, 
the races at colorful Santa Anita, snow 
sports in nearby Lake Arrowhead and 
other mountains meccas, you can enjoy 
your favorite outdoor hobbies even to 
swimming under a winter sun at Palm 
Springs only three hours' drive away. 

Obviously, your California wardrobe 
depends a great deal upon your plans 
of things to do. Beginning with the 
travel suit and a warm coat (furs if you 
have them ) , seasoned with a raincoat 
and rubbers . . the rest may include such 
diversities as ski clothes and a sunsuit! 
But aside from your sports "needies," 
you'll find occasion to wear evening 
clothes if you like, although a cocktail 
dress or suit will be equally good taste. 
The elegant fabrics of today's afternoon 
clothes make them ideal for after-dark 
going as well. 

The new spring prints, tiny geometries 
and exotic in mood, are effective in 
these post-holidays. And a lighter 
weight, lighter toned suit will have both 
the required warmth and the forward 
look of spring. The secret of looking 
right for any occasion while travelling 
lies in wise choice of accessories. A 
bright sweater, a tailored blouse, a 
jewelled or frothy waist . . these three 
(with proper gloves, bags and hats) 
can make you well dressed for any day- 
time occasion, while the dressed-up suit 
can go on to dinner or a show. Add 
gay scarves, extra gloves, beads and pins 
. . and you'll be surprised how they 
can change your basic clothes to suit 
your mood of the moment. 


Los San 

Angeles Francisco 

Highest 80 78 

Lowest 28 28 

Average 55.5 50.1 

Average total rainfall 3.04 4.75 


Uzfts in the 
ualifornia manner 

LUNCHEON SET: Four place mats and four napkins in 
cotton, imprinted with Western motif. Fringes are 
plastic-treated to prevent snarling. Choice of yellow or 
beige with brown horse. Gift-boxed at $3.00, postpaid. 

FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a champ 
with this trick spinning rope. Comes with complete: 
directions. $1.00, postpaid. Child's spurs in white and 
gold metal. Fits over any boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid. 

MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative touch 
for your kitchen . . and useful, too. Four plastic meas- 
uring spoons, that fit in a floral arrangement into this 
bright ceramic flowerpot. Gadgets like this make 
housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50, postpaid. 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2V 2 % safes tax.} 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 





Where To Buy Max Kopp Dresses 

The dresses by Max Kopp as advertised on page 12 and 
as pictured on page 55 are available at the following 
I tores: 

ARIZONA: Morenci, Pine's. 

Ft. Smith, 
Store; Pine 

ARKANSAS: Hope, Chas. A. Haynes Co.; 
Watkins Store Co.; Jonesboro, Wall's Dept. 
Bluff, Eisenkramer's. 

CALIFORNIA: Alhambra, Faye's; Anaheim, Gaye Suz- 
anne; Bakersfield, Weill's of Bakersfield; Berkeley, Hez- 
letfs; Buena Park, Parke Apparel Shoppe; Chico, M. 
Oser Co.; Fresno, B. Strauss; Gtendale, M. J. Boretz; 
Hollywood, Ann of Hollywood; Huntington Park, Leona's; 
Oakland, De Vorin's, Marlowe's, Tollie's; Los Angeles, 
Charlston's, J. J. Haggorty & Co., The May Co., Rose- 
mary Shop; Lynwood, Amber Style Shop; Merced, Selb's; 
Modesto, J. Loeb; Palo Alto, Bryant's; Pasadena, Bess 
Briggs, Pian's; Sacramento, Kneeland's; Salinas, The 
Smart Shop; Son Carlos, Dixson's; San Diego, Muriel 
Clark's Studio Styles; San Francisco, Joseph Magnin; San 
Gabriel, Amber's; San Jose, Eunice Shaw; San 
Marino, Cleo's; San Raphael, Modern Eve Shop; Santa 
Ana, Frances Norton; Santa Cruz, Samuel Leask & Sons; 
Santa Rosa, The Fashion; Stockton, Donovan's Smart 
Shop, Eden Fashion; Studio City, Rae's; Vallejo, The 
Wonder Wear; Visalia, Wanda's Style Shop. 

COLORADO: Denver, The May Co. 

FLORIDA: Coral Gables, Lula Mae Shop. 

IDAHO: Pocatello, Modern Deb Shoppe; Preston, Foss 

INDIANA: Indianapolis, Suburban Sportswear. 

KANSAS: Liberal, Shoppe Elite; Wichita, Flo Brooks, 

KENTUCKY: Gladys K's Dress Shop. 

LOUISIANA: Baton Rouge, Dalton Co.,; Eunice, La 
Vogue; New Orleans, D. H. Holmes Co.; Windield, 
H & F Shoppe. 

MINNESOTA: New Ulm, Jack Pink. 

MISSOURI: Kansas City, Woolf Brothers. 

NEBRASKA: Beatrice, Miriam Kees. 

NEVADA: Boulder City, Desertwear. 

NEW MEXICO: Rosewell, W. W. Merritt. 

OKLAHOMA: Altus, Chicago Store; Bartlesville, Koppel's; 
Enid, Youngblood Dress Shop; Guyman, Ethel's Shop; 
Mangum, Smith Style Shop; Shattuck, Hollywood Dress 
Shop; Stillwater, Laughlin's Campus Shop. 

OREGON: Albany, McDevitt's; Ashland, Excel Dress 
Shop; Grant's Pass, Excel Dress Shop; Portland, Meier 
& Frank Co.; Solem, Fashionette, Grace's Ready-to- 

SOUTH DAKOTA: Mobridge, Style Shop. 

TENNESSEE: Memphis, Linden Circle Dress Shop. 

TEXAS: Abilene, Waddington's; Alice, Patten's; Ama- 
rillo, KuykendaM's; Baytown; Paine Brothers; Borger, The 
Charm; El Paso, Gilbert's; Ft. Worth, Manning Dry 
Goods, W. C. Stripling Co.; Galveston, Benoit's; Har- 
lingen, lone Crow; Hereford, The Vogue; Hillsboro, 
Young's Style Shop; Houston, Boyer & Whisennand, 
Isabel Gerhart, Martha's Ladies Shop; Lamesa, The 
Vogue; McAllen, Ladies Supply; Merkel, Brogg Dry 
Goods; Midland, Chas. A. Haynes Co.; Odessa, Nash 
Tucker; Olney, Specialty Shop; Orange, Velma's; Pam- 
pa, Gilberts; Perryton, Frances Virginia Shop; Port Ar- 
thur, Velmas; Ranger, Joseph Dry Goods Co.; Wharton, 
Sol's; Wink, Hollywood Shop; Vernon, Russell's Dept. 
Store; Yoakum, Yoakum Fashion. 

UTAH: Salt Lake City, Hudson Bay Fur Co., The Paris. 

WASHINGTON: Aberdeen, Brower's; Bellingham, 
Wahl's, Inc.; Everett, C. C. Chaffee Co.; Longview, 
Caplan's; Tacoma, Oakes Apparel; Vancouver, Cap* 
lan's; Walla Walla, The Vogue; Wenatchee, Fashion 
Shop; Yakima, W. E. Draper Co. 


The Ultimate in Sun and Swim Wear! 



Tied high for 


Tied low for 


Black Wool Jersey 


Black or White rayon jersey. Ad- 
justable for maximum exposure 



Black rayon jersey and lustre satin. 


Send all measurements. 
Send check with order; 
No C.O.D. orders accepted. 
All orders shipped postpaid. 


Box 23-C 
Melrose 76, Massachusetts 

fat LIDS 

these attractive Dor-File racks are 

"Musts" for every home! 

The Dor-File spice racks have dozens of uses — 
in kitchen cupboards, linen cabinets, bathrooms, 
workshops. Keeps small articles handy, saves 
space, saves time — easily attached to any door 
or wall. 12/2 in. long, 2/2 in. high, 1 y 2 in. 
deep. Only 79c each. Special gift package of 
3 for $2,291 

The Dor-File cleanser rack is a brand-new, much- 
needed item for every home. Ideal for kitchen, 
laundry, bathroom. Holds cleansers, washing 
powders, soaps, steel wool. It has a dishcloth 
bar — handy and for quick drying. IO72 ' n - long, 
4 in. high, 5 in. deep — ample room for every- 
thing. Only $1.49. 

The Dor-File lid rack puts your doors to work, 
too — in your kitchen, laundry, broom closet, 
linen closet. It easily holds your pot lids, pie 
tins and other kitchen flatware, polishes, waxes, 
soaps, bleaches, starch — within easy reach. Elim- 
inates cabinet clutter. 11% in. long, 5 in high, 
4 in. deep. A bargain in efficiency for $1 .49. 

Order them individually 
or a complete set for . 

For delivery in California odd 2 l /2% sales fax. 




January, 1949 


Give your face 

Erase telltale age lines, 
wrinkles and crows-feet 
this easy, sure scientific way 

Kathryn Murray Home Facial treat- 
ments strengthen facial muscles through 
simple, 5 -minute facial exercises, pro- 
duce amazing results. Have helped 
40,000 women look years younger. 

Send today for 

free booklet 

No obligation. No salesman will call. Act 
now. Give your face a new and younger look. 

206 South Michigan Ave., Suite 194, Chicago 4, 


Early Clipper Ships navigating the seven 
seas relied on this type of weather glass 
to forecast storms. This true reproduction 
in hand- blown glass, with antiqued meta! 
bracket, will be both useful and decorative. 
An attractive budget-wise gift, for only 

A'tman Bldg\ 

Kansas City 6, Mo 





she'll be happy with 




of Black Lace and 
Red Satin for your 
favorite SHE. 


Of course you know 
her hip measure- 
ments! Send check; 
no C.O.D. orders ac- 
cepted. We ship 1st 
Class Mail prepaid. 


Box 23-C 
Melrose 76, 

Louise Salinger 
Schools of Dress Designing 


Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting, 
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching, 
Modeling. Day and Evening Classes. 
Catalogue B. 

Maiden La. & 
Kearny St. 

San Francisco, 


Do. 28059 

Wood & Oliver 




Atlantic 3855 

Stores Offering 
Saba Dresses 
Listed By States 

i he crisp cotton dresses by Saba of California 
as shown on page 53 are available at the 
following stores: 

ALABAMA: Mobile, L. Hammel; Sylacanga, 
Wallis Co. 

ARIZONA: Clarksdale, Peggy's; Globe, Cecil's 

Dress Shop; Kingman, Bessie Borden; Phoenix, 

Jo Lee's Sportswear; Safford, Modern Dress 

Shop; Wilcox, Style Shop; Winslow, Petite 

ARKANSAS: El Dorado, J. F. Sample Co.; 
Magnolia, The Fashion Shop. 

CALIFORNIA: Corona, American Potash & 
Chemical Co.; Buena Park, Studio Dress Shop; 
Chico, Betty's Dress Shop; China Lake, Jean 
Stersic; Costa Mesa, Gaylas; Eureka, The White 
House; Fresno, Rodder's Mademoiselle, Inc.; 
Gustine, Virginia's Dress Shop; Huntington Park, 
Bernard's; Inglewood, Robert Sklar; King City, 
Virginia's Dress Shop; La Mesa, Lady Gay Shop; 
Long Beach, Gorman's Dress Shop; Los Angeles, 
Bullock's, Jekyll's, The Pinafore, Tabs of Holly- 
wood, Trabing's; Oroville, Betty Jean Shop; 
Pasadena, Bullock's; Pomona, Junior Jills; Reed- 
ley, Lois Jean Shoppe; Sacramento, Rich's; San 
Diego, Gilda Fashions; San Gabriel, Frederick's; 
San Jose, The Brown House; Santa Ana, Janies 
Shop for Girls; Santa Barbara, Mademoiselle,- 
Santa Monica, Do Sel's; Santa Paula, Carlson 
Hat & Gown Shop; Sonora, Sanford's; Stockton, 
The Brown House; Taft, Ladies Toggery; Whittier, 
Myer's Dept. Store; Yreka, Barklow's Dress Shop. 

COLORADO: Longmont, Vogue Dress Shop. 

CONNECTICUT: New Haven, The Rogers Shoppe. 

FLORIDA: Clearwater, Modern Dress Shop; Holly- 
wood, Town & Resort; Key West, Ideal Togs; 
Miami, The Little Green Shop; Miami Beach, 
Effie Louise, Joan's; Oca la. Guarantee Clothing 
Co.; Sarasota, The Sport Shop; Vero Beach, 
Gwenda Lee Junior Shop. 

GEORGIA: Atlanta, Fashion Sportswear. 

ILLINOIS: Chicago, Carson Pirie Scott, Fashion 
Hall; Evanston, Maurice L. Rothschild & Co. 

KANSAS: Anthony, Vera's Thrift Shop; Inde- 
pendence, Litwin's; Parsons, Lifwin's; Wichita, 
Hinkel's, Wayne's. 

LOUISIANA: Abberville, Lady Lake Fashion; 
Alexandria, Wellan's; Baton Rouge, Mabel's; 
Covington, Norman Haik; Franklinton, The 
Fashion Shop; Morgan City, Fannie Mae Gold- 
man; New Orleans, Robbins Co.; Shreveport, 
Centencery Dress Shop. 

MARYLAND: Silver Springs, Charles Shop. 

MASSACHUSETTS: Ambridge, David Shop; Boston, 
Wm. Fllene's; Fitchburg, Baylin's Fur Shop; 
Waltham, Barbara Stone Dress Shop. 

MICHIGAN: Belleville, Francis Smith Shop; Ben- 
ton Harbor, Helaine's; Detroit, Smart Style 
Shop; Lake Orion, Beatrice Frocks; Lansing, 
Ruth Donnelly; Munnising, Mildred's Shop; Sul- 
ton's Bay, Inch's Gift & Frock Shop. 

MISSISSIPPI: Brookhaven, Benoit's; Jackson, A. 
D. & L. Oppenheim; Vicksburg, Rice & Co. 

MISSOURI: Clayton, Gutman's; Columbia, McAl- 
lister's; Kansas City, B. Alden Millinery, Cricket 
West; St. Louis, Kay's Womens Wear, Sherman 
Smart Shop. 

MONTANA: Butte, Modern Miss; Kalispelt, An- 
derson's Style Shop; Laurel, Simon's; Missoula, 
Cummins Co. 

NEBRASKA: Grand Island, S. N. Walbach 
Sons, Inc. 

NEVADA: Elko, Tots n' Teens. 

NEW HAMPSHIRE: Manchester, Rogers Co., Inc. 

NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Hinkel's; Hanger- 
man, People's Merc. Co.; Hatch, Crout's; Las 
Cruces, El Encanto Dress & Gift Shop. 

NEW YORK: Buffalo, Adam, Meldrum & Anderson. 

NORTH DAKOTA: Washington, Lieber's, Inc. 

OHIO: Marietta, Bonham's; Portsmouth, Marting 
Bros. Co.; Van Wert, The Kay Shop. 

OKLAHOMA: Altus, Powder Puff Shop; Guyman, 
Ethel Shop; Paul's Valley, Virgie's Dress Shop; 
Ponca City, Marks Jr. Shop; Stillwater, Laughlin's 
Campus Shop. 

Where To Buy The Lady Alice Dress 

I he lovely Lady Alice of California cotton 
dresses as shown on the front cover and as 
advertised on pages 4 and 5 are available at 
the following stores: 

ALABAMA: Dean-West, Jacksonville; Nachman 
& Meertief, Montgomery. 

ARIZONA: A & B Schuster Co., Holbrook; 
Elaine's Dress Shop, Pinetop; Lawrence Dress 
Shop, Prescott; Petite Dress Shop, Winslow. 

CALIFORNIA: Chace's, Adin ; Helen's, Alham- 
bra; The Gibson Shop, Altura; Sadie's Dress 
Shop, Atwater; La Cresta Village Frock Shop, 
Bakersfield; She, Balboa; Dorel's and Hink's, 
Berkeley; Irene's, Brentwood; Evelyn's, Burney; 
Rachel's, Campbell; Betty Lane Shop, Chico; 
Frock Shop, Chula Vista; Dealy's, Colfax; J. J. 
O'Rourke, Colusa; The Town Shop, Corona; 
Fink's Department Store, Dixon; Du Sold's, El 
Centro; Escondido Mercantile Co., Escondido; 
Toby's Charm Cottage, Fairfield; Esther's Fuller- 
ton; Mirviss, Hanford; Economy Department 
Store, Hayward; Mary Jane, Healdsburg; Robbins 
& Levi, Hollywood; Polka Dot Dress Shop, In- 
glewood; Ruby Ella Dress Shop, Kingsburg; 
Van Dusen's Department Store, La Verne; Doro- 
thy's, Livingston; East Side Dress Shop, Lodi; 
Ann's Dress Shop, Madera; The Toggery, Man- 
teca; Mar Vista Dress Shoppe, Mar Vista; Town 
& Country Shop, McArthur; Tioga Dress Shop, 
Merced; Town & Country, Modesto; The Little 
Shop, Napa; Bianchi's, Oakdale; Kahn's, Oak- 
land; M & M Department Store, Oroville; 
Irene's, Pacific Grove; F. C. Nash & Co., Pasa- 
dena; Fastvo.i Dress Shop, Paterson; Luci lie's, 
Petaluma; Bario's, Pleasanton; Rose Fashion 
Shop, Porterville; Vivian's, Redding; Lois Jean 
Shoppe, Reedley; Albert's, Richmond; Casual 
Corner and Weinstock-Lubin, Sacramento; A. L. 
Brown & Sons, Salinas; Devonot's San Ber- 
nardino; Parker's North Park Gown Shop and 
Walker's, San Diego; Alex de May, Ltd., and 
The Emporium, San Francisco; L. Hart & 
Son, San Jose; Edith Guthridge, San Leandro, 
Belle Quinn, Sanger; Irene's Styles, Santa 
Cruz; Jacobsen's, Selma; Johnson & Newman, 
Shafter; H. G. Hotz, Sonoma; The Sterling 
Inc., Stockton; Anderson's Specialty Shop, Su 
sanvllle; De Paoli, Sutter Creek; The New 
Burns Dept. Store, Taft; Leora Blessinger, Tern 
pie City; Cabana' b, Truckee; Turlock Mercan 
file Co., Turlock; Esther Shop, Ukiah; Levee's 
Vallejo; Edith's, Weed; Betty Matthew's Shop 
Whittier; The Willows Shop, Willows; The Vogue, 
Yuba City. 

COLORADO: Parish's, Denver. 

CONNECTICUT: Sage Allen, Hartford. 

ington, D. C. 

FLORIDA: Kathleenah's Lady's Wear, Miami; 
Donnan's, Inc., St. Petersburg; K's Teen Shop, 
Winter Haven. 

GEORGIA: Bradley's Shop, Athens; Williams 
Dress Shop, Cornelia; Georgi's Fashion Shop, 

OREGON: Eugene, Frager's; Salem, Johnson's. 

PENNSYLVANIA: Lancaster, Watt & Shand; 
Punxsutawney, George Fashion Shoppe; Sharon, 
Elnor Kreiger; Turtle Creek, Jack's; Pittsburgh, 
Joseph Home. 

SOUTH CAROLINA: Columbia, House of Petites; 
Greenville, Patterson's Shoppe; Orangeburg, 
Edna's Style Shop; Spartenburg, Saul's Inc. 

SOUTH DAKOTA: Aberdeen, The New York Store; 
Watertown, The Paulis Co. 

TENNESSEE: Chattanooga, Donna's; Columbia, 
Vanity Shop; Johnson City, Dosser Bro. 

TEXAS: Anson, The Fashion Shop; Big Lake, Ray 
Dry Goods; Bryan, Beverly Bra ley; Burkeville, 
Ruby's Dress Shop; Dallas, Mather's; Dennison, 
J. W. Madden; El Paso, Glass Apparel; Ft. 
Worth, The Fair, .Gilbert's; Kautze, Maria nna's; 
Laredo, M. A. Cavazos; Monahan, Dun lap Co.; 
Orlando, Dickson Ives Inc.; Perryton, E. K. 
Walker; Sweetwater, Dunlap's. 

WASHINGTON: Castle Rock, Verna's Dress Shop; 
Clarkston, Mar Lee Apparel; Seattle, Girl's Shop. 

WEST VIRGINIA: Morgantown, Kaufman's; 
Moundsville, Hinerman's. 

GUAM: Guam, The Coral. 

HAWAII: Honolulu, Julie's, Kuhio Dress Shop, 
Lai Fong & Co., Liberty House. 

Kingsland; Patty Ann Shoppe, Thomaston; 
L. B. Barnett, Tifton. 

GUAM: The Corals, Guam, Guam. 

IDAHO: Economy Cash, Aberdeen; Snider'*}; 
Shop, Buhl; The Mode, Burley; The Art 
Shop, Lewisron; People's Store, Pocatello; i] 
rets & Co., Rexburg; The Smart Shop, Rl 

ILLINOIS: Carson, Pirie, Scott, Chicago. 

INDIANA: Village Belle Shop, Greenfield. 

IOWA: Gates Dry Goods Co., Ft. Dodge; i 
Ton Shoppe, Jefferson; Clara Owen, Le \ 
Paulsen's, Manning. 

KANSAS: Model Style Shop, Greens 
Chandler's Dress Shop, Herington; Helen's 
Shop, Hoisingfon; Heschmeyer & Geary, La 

MARYLAND: Margo Dress Shop, Baltlma 
Havre de Grace,- Style Shop, Hagerstown, 

MICHIGAN: Audrey Mae Shop, Bay City; 
tie T. Cruse, Laurium. 

MISSISSIPPI: Rosenberg Bros., Greenville; 
Cannon Shops, Inc., Jackson; Xylda's Sh< 

MISSOURI: Sunny Day Store, Booneville; 
port Cleaning Co., Rockport. 

MONTANA: Hart Albin Co., Billings; H< 
Style Shop, Dillon; Federated Stores, 

NEVADA: The Emporium, Boulder City; 

hart's, Elko; Bell & Whorton, Ely; Richard: 
No. Las Vegas; Gertrude HIckey, Reno; 
hart's, Winnemucca. 

NEW JERSEY: R. H. Mulr Company, East On 
Debbie Shop, Haddon Heights; Rose Hat 
Merchantville; Modern Shop, Wildwood. 

NEW YORK: Galax Ladies Apparel, Riverl 
Long Island. 

NORTH CAROLINA: Marie's, Burlington; I 
tine's Shop, Siler City; Belk's Department '. 

OHIO: The Higbee Company, Cleveland; 
son's Specialty Shop, Crestline; Cecile'i I 
Shop, Kent. 

OKLAHOMA: The Toggery, Perry; Allen's, 

OREGON: Weitzel's, Ashland; Fashion i 
Lakeview; King's Vogue, McMinnville; C ( 
Milwaukie; Freda's Town & Country Shop, : 
wego; Olds, Wortman & King, Portland; 1(1 
Gay Shop, Rainier; St. Helens Style Shop ! 
Helens; Little French Shop, Salem; Johnijf 

PENNSYLVANIA: Betty Jenkins Shop, Ait 1 .*; 
Bailey's Dress Shop, Darby; Watt & Shand, I 
Lancaster; Murray's Dress Shop, PalmtVI 
Reba Miller, Shamokin; Marty Shop, SoudHt 
Sportoggery, West Chester. 

SOUTH CAROLINA: Sara's Dress Shop, Lai 

TENNESSEE: S. H. George Co., Knoxville. 

TEXAS: The Glamour Shop, Breckenridge; * 
ger Bros., Dallas; Muriel's Shoppe, Polt(«H 
Joske's, San Antonio. 

UTAH: Del Mart. Department Store, E, 
Morel I Nelson, Huntington; Carpenter's, N\ 
Barnett & Lacsen, Mt. Pleasant; GorbjU 
Nephi; Vagabond Shop, Ogden; Snow's ' 
Shop, St. George; Paris Company, Soil } 
City; La Gra Shop, Tremonton. 

VIRGINIA: Gurdine's, Danville; Mareta's, SiH 

WASHINGTON: Bartilson's Dress 

ton; Drew's Dry Goods, Castle 

Shop, East Stanwood; Warne 

Store, Mount Vernon; Margaret 

Bon Marche, Spokane; Rhodes Bros., Ta( 

Elizabeth Shop, Tappenish; Oleson's, V< 

land; Miller's, Yakima. 

WEST VIRGINIA: Cinderella Shoppe, Ktir 
Beryl's Shoppe, Welch. 

WISCONSIN: Mademoiselle, Marshfield; 

WYOMING: Suz-Anne Shop, Buffalo; I 
wood Shop, Cheyenne; Mary Jane Shop, 
mie; Ellen G. Walker Shop, Rock Springs- 


THE CALIFORNIAN, January, 1949 


Wiat she wants . . . andMallimon makes it easy/ 

New crease-resistant 


Color-bright RUSTEENA 

is a modem, 


rayon fabric 

that cuts easily . . . 

sews easily . . . 

is easily the making 

of that wonderful, 

washable, warm-weather 

wardrobe everyone 


in fine ready-to-wear 
and fabric by the yard. 

National Mallinson 
Fabrics Corporation, 
1071 Avenue of the Americas, 
New York 18 ■ Chicago 
Seattle • Los Angeles. 
San Francisco 




Its a SWIMMERS swimsuit 

Esther Williams, glamorous swimming 
champion and M.G.M. star, says: 

"Finally— a perfect swimming 
suit! It fits beautifully wet or dry 
—has freedom in action and 
beauty all the time. I'm proud to 
have tested and helped to perfect 
this new Cole suit designed espe- 
cially for me. I think every girl 
who swims ought to have one." 

The fabric— rich-textured Lastex matelasse, 
exclusively Cole, with the snap that gives 
support. The Ballet Bodice— with lovely 
curving uplift and a little-looking waist. 
Straps— placed for smooth looks arid for 
smoother stroke. The whole effect— slim 
and cleanly beautiful! Ask for the "Esther 
Williams" by Cole of California. Scarlet, 
sea foam green, sand beige, navy, white 

. . . 17.95. 

No mail orders, please; but write, we'll tell you where. 
Copyright 1949. Cole of California, Inc., Los Angeles 11 




A 9 

From California comes the Spring Collection of origina 
Thompson's California Hand Prints . . . Created 

with an entirely new feeling of California colors and 
patterns . . . Styled to the latest trends. 

Exclusively at one fine store in your city, see page 53. 

southern California designs by ruth 










v . N . * I \ 

• naturally it's a IV^ 

custom loomed for 
ken Sutherland by 

01. 7 THE CALIFORNIAN 1b published monthly by The California!.. Inc.. at 1020 S. Main St.. Los Angeles 15. Calif., printed In U. S. A. Yearly sub.erlptlon price *%%%" 

o. 1 53.00. Entered as second class matter January 25. 1046. at the Post Office. Los Aneeles, Calif., under the Act of March 3. 1879. 19" 

#«* . - of ^ 
eel«* ft \. of * 



ro* 1 

***** <*** > 


Dfi Moines 6, 

THE CAIIFORNIAN, February, I949 

■ Outfit 



Stroock s Chonga tweed . . . sou, suf>f>le stun with unbounding stamina, in a coat 
tailored solely for our Ascot Snof> by Miss California. And three to one 
you 11 love it. . . all three of its wonderful ways. Cjold, natural. ac(ua, green, toast. 

Sizes 8 to 18. 75.00. 



[THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 


Which Figure Is Yours? 

Do you know how to dress your particular 
figure? Do you know how to play up your 
good points, play down your figure faults? 
Dressing by Design is a famous fashion de- 
signer's notebook . . it's a coordinated col- 
lection of 10 important fashion articles that 
tell you simply, and graphically, how to dress 
to your personality . . and your figure. 

Do You Know How To Accessorize? 

Dressing by Design tells you how to achieve 
accessory balance with each outfit you wear. 
How to appear, constantly, as a well-dressed 

Do You Know How To Harmonize? 

Do you know how to select fabrics and styles 
that become you? Dressing bv Design dues 
these things for you . . in an easy to- read, 
easy-to-understand booklet . . with each sub- 
ject graphically illustrated for your reference. 

It's a Two-Dollar value in a book you'll 
want to keep . . for only 50 cents. It's a di- 
gested course in design for dressing that 
could cost you ever so much more. And it's a 
wonderful gift for others as well. 


Write For Your Copy Today 

Simply fill in the coupon below and mail 
with 50 cents for each copy, postage paid. 

To: The Californian, 1020 S. Main St., 
Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of 




[City, Zone and State) 
Enclosed is payment for □ copies. 


By Helen Evans Brown 

Andre Simons French Cook Book. 
Little, Brown, & Co. $3.00. 

Two well-known gourmets are re- 
sponsible for the new edition of this 
really fine cook book. Andre Simon, 
founder of the Wine and Food Society 
and number one man in the world of 
oenonology, wrote the book, and Crosby 
Gaige, an authority on all things gas- 
tronomical, has revised it for use in the 
American kitchen. The first edition of 
the book, excellent as it was, was a bit 
baffling to the average American cook. 
Even if her knowledge of French had 
been sufficient to translate the menus 
which were written in that language, 
some of the continental ingredients 
that were called for in the recipes were 
completely beyond the inventories of 
her corner grocery store. Mr. Gaige has 
fixed all that. While he has retained 
the superb recipes, the masterly menus, 
the delightful water colors by Nancy 
Dyer, he has simplified the recipes, 
translated, and in some cases shortened, 
the menus, and has substituted American 
ingredients for those used by M. Simon. 
And he has done all this without losing 
one iota of the book's original charm. 
Mr. Gaige has been aided by Frank 
Schoonmaker, who contributes a knowl- 
edgeable chapter on American wines, 
and he and M. Simon have together 
selected the wines for the meals — M. 
Simon the foreign ones, Mr. Schoon- 
maker the American alternates. 

The book is not a complete cook 
book — rather it's a book of exquisite 
menus with the accompanying recipes: 
menus simple enough for anyone with 
cooking sense to follow. If M. Simon's 
original book was valuable, as indeed it 
was, this revised edition is a priceless 

Art of Italian Cookery, Maria Lo Pinto. 
Doubleday & Co., Inc. $2.75. 

While the cook book market has been 
flooded, in recent years, with books on 
French, Russian, Chinese, Mexican, 
American Regional, and even Scandi- 
navian cookery, there has been little or 
nothing on that of Italy. Now it is 
here, and welcomed by all those who 
love Italian food. And who doesn't? 
Mrs. Lo Pinto has covered the subject 
well, though naturally not completely. 
The section on the ingredients used in 
Italian cookery is a valuable one, and, 
armed with it, it ought to be easy for 
anyone to do her marketing in the Ital- 
ian quarter. The diagrams of the 
pastas are invaluable, the menus au- 
thentic, the chapters on feasts and cus- 
toms not too long, but long enough to 
add interest to the book. 




Second Edition of 

California Cooks 

By Helen Evans Brown 

A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's 
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex- 
clusively in 







"~—!Z_' ' — ■ ■-». 





The first edition sold out completely. This 
one is greatly enlarged. Has a new cover 
— in color. Makes a smart gift! 


Recipes. Menus. Articles on cookery. But NOT 
a cook book. Rather a book on California 

A distinguished cuisine influenced by the 
Missions, by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by 
California vineyards and citrus groves, by 
the desert, by the Spanish fiesta days, by 
patio living and barbecues, by picnicking in 
California, by the seashore and by the lav- 
ish days of old San Francisco. 
Kumquat Marmalade . . Napa Kidney Saute 
. . Spaghetti Ventura . . Patio Salad . . 
Barracuda San Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . . 
California Almond Sauce . . Fresno Fritters 
. . Ojai Orange Sauce for Duckl 
It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans 
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READ- 



1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Colif. 

Please moll my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS 




(City, State and Zone) 
Enclosed is payment for Q copies at $1 each. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 



Color-from the days when 
a swashbuckling hero donned a 
brilliant velvet doublet! Ted 
Saval dips into the 16th century 
dye- pot and brings forth this 
gem-studded suede shoe in thoroughly 
Californian glowing colors. 
Flat wedge $12.95, medium 
high wedge $14.95. The exactly 
matching suede bag by 
Theodor of California $12.95. 


The Colors: 













At topflight 
stores. Write us. 
We'll tell you. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 


Ut'fts in the 
\jalifornia manner 

IUNCHEON SET: Four place mats and four nap- 
kins in cotton, imprinted with Western motif. 
Fringes are plastic-treated to prevent snarling. 
Choice of yellow or beige with brown horse. 
Gift-boxed at $3.00, postpaid. 

SMOKING SET: This exotic Chinese slipper is 
both a cigarette container and an ash tray. In 
brilliant turquoise ceramic, with gold ornamenta- 
tion. Lovely home accessory, novel and useful. 
$5.00, postpaid. 

MINIATURE CHAFING DISH: Something to grace 
the dinner table of any home-proud hostess. 
An adorable miniature chafing dish of solid 
copper and brass. Complete in every detail, in- 
cluding a heating unit that burns alcohol. Makes 
o stunning centerpiece. $5.95, postpaid. 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2 1 / 2 % sales tax.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 





TER ... an absolute necessity for your 
medicine cabinet is this new, different ther- 
mometer. It's absolutely accurate, and can't 
break. Imported from Switzerland, made like 
a Swiss watch, it's a fine precision instrument, 
guaranteed for two years. Easy to read, for 
temperature registers on a watch-like dial. No 
shaking up and down is necessary, and it's 
easily sterilized. A bakelite carrying case is 
included. Just $18.75 postpaid, or sent C. 0. D. 
plus postage. Order it from Central Merchan- 
dising Company, Dept. A-4, Victoria, Kansas. 

THE OX-BOW LAMP ... for you and 

your home, if you like country fields in the 
setting sun . . . the good fresh smell of new- 
mown hay. A product of "The Old Red Mill," 
the Ox-Bow is 16" high, of antiqued native 
pine and copper ... its style and craftsman- 
ship reminiscent of Colonial Days. Shades, 
from the "Hills of New Hampshire Studio,'' 
are hand-painted in soft cream, brown and 
green . . . the bow, adjustable to four heights. 
$18.50, express collect. Send check or money 
order to Charmers, Francestown, New Hamp- 

TIDY TOES ... the California Tabbies 
with two-button back closing. These adorable 
foot-mittens are so comfy you'll forget you 
have them on . . until you hear the compli- 
ments they rate! For lounging, dorm, patio 
and pool, Tabbies are styled for wearability. 
Softest satin in black, white or pink; and 
quilted chintz in red, yellow, green or blue. 
Sizes S-M-L. Send check or money order for 
S3.95 (plus 10c tax in California, 12c in Los 
Angeles) to The Margorita Shop, 1018 South 
Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

CALIFORNIA COOKS ... the second en- 
larged edition of our recipe book "California 
Cooks," by Helen Evans Brown, is available 
now. You and your friends will be delighted 
with the selections — over 100 delicious and 
easy recipes, from abalone to zucchini; from 
oriental to occidental; from wine to herbs to 
spices. And all planned with that special Cali- 
fornia-flair-for-flavor and originality. For good- 
ness sakes, order yours now — and your friends, 
too. Just one dollar each, postpaid. Address 
California Cooks, c/o The Californian, 1020 S. 
Main, Lss Angeles 15, Calif. 

BUTTERFLY CLOCKS . . . Willys of 
Hollywood creates hand-appliqued butterflies 
of velveteen chenille for third-dimensional 
beauty on this new hosiery. 15-denier DuPont 
nylon, seamed or seamfree; sandalfoot, semi- 
sandal or conventional. In the rich '49ers 
colors: pay dirt; gold dust; mica brown; rose 
quartz; red earth; shovel tan. Sizes 8 to 11. 
For street-wear and dress occasions . . . 13.50 
the pair, at May Company Wilshire, Los An- 
geles: Sage & Allen, Hartford; Carson Pirie 
Scott, Chicago. Or write Willys of Hollywood, 
1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif. 

THE CAUFORNIAN, February, 1949 


quisite, sheer hosiery for cocktail and evening 
wear, featuring the high-molded heel. 54-gauge, 
15-denier, made of DuPont nylon. Sizes 8V2 to 
11, in your choice of the new spring shades: 
illusion, toast, dawn, cloud, honey, or autumn 
dusk. And unbelievably low priced at $1.69 a 
pair, or three for 84.75. Money back guarantee. 
C. 0. D. orders accepted. Let Lady Irene do 
your personal shopping for California-made 
lingerie, sportswear and so forth. Irene's Dress 
Shop, 728 Montana Avenue, Santa Monica, 


manent holiday from dishpan hands! Washes 
dishes quicker, doesn't even wet your hands. 
Attaches to all faucets. Just put soap scraps 
or detergent furnished into this magic washer, 
press button for foaming hot suds, release 
button for clear rinsing water. Interchangeable 
brushes — nylon for dishes and glasses; bronze 
for pots and pans (and doggie's bath, too). 
With plastic wall bracket and liberal soap 
supply. Red or black. §6.49 postpaid. H. G. 
Kolb & Co., Dept. C, 6674 Yucca, Los Angeles 
28, Calif. Money back guarantee. 

CALIFORNIA POTTERY . . . you'll love 
to set your table with this delightful pottery, 
in colors adapted from the California sun — 
powder blue, turquoise, desert sand or butter- 
cup yellow. It'll bring charm and gaiety to your 
breakfast nook and dining room. Complete 
service for four — 4 large plates, 4 cups and 
4 saucers, 4 butter or salad plates, and 4 fruit 
dishes . . . and the price is miraculously low 
— 20 piece set for $8.95. Send color choice 
with check or money order to Fred L. Seymour 
Co., Box 1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

THREAD-A MATIC . . . this new automatic 
threader, of durable plastic with precision 
mechanism, makes it possible to thread needles 
with one finger! Easy for children and adults, 
it threads needles from 3 to 9, thread from 36 
to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerized. 
To simplify your sewing, just $2.95 postage 
prepaid. Add 2 1 /£% sales tax in California, 
3% in Los Angeles. Send your orders to 
Fred L. Seymour Co., Box 1176, Beverly 
Hills, Calif. 

SU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . 100% all 
power net nylon, even sewed with nylon thread, 
finished with nylon tape, and nylon elastic 
garters. Dries in 4 short hours, fits so well that 
squirming and yanking are things of the past 
... no revealing seam-lines under slickest 
dresses. You'll have smoother, prettier hip 
I lines with this Su-Z Girdle. Step-in (without 
I legs) or pantie (shown). Black, nude, or 
■ white, postpaid just $10.95. Send measure- 
ments of your waist, tummy, thigh, over-all 
weight, and height to Su-Z, 2920 W. Vernon 
Ave., Los Angeles 43, Calif. 

THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 


FinruMBKfi T " " M Kl *° 0BOR01 vt 


OLOGNES with the traditional 
English bouquet, created exquisitely 
by Atkinsons of Bond Street, 
can now be bought at the finer shops. 






In The March Issue 



• Sun Country Fashions 

• California Living 

• Wonderful Recipes 

Use the coupon attached to this copy! 

Make someone happy with a 
gift subscription to 



Louise Salinger 
Schools of Dress Designing 

Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting, 
Millinery. Tailoring. Sketching. 
Modeling. Day and EveWHg CLae&eo 
Catalogue B. 

Maiden La. &. 

Wood & Oliver 

Kearny St. 


San Francisco. 




Do. 28059 

Atlantic 3653, mfowuL 

v aH 

For the nearest stores, write ADELE — OF CALIFORNIA, 2615 So. Hill Street, Los Angeles, Calif. 

Just one of a group of new suits . . . for 
fashion-wise girls . . . with a career budget 
. . . sizes 9 to 15 ... at 17.95. 

For Name of Store Nearest You, Write 
Cleveland 14, Ohio New York 18, N. Y. 


There is beauty everywhere, and your own life 
is made richer by an awareness of it in the color, 
texture and design of the flower arrangements that 
grace your home. Here is a form of self-expression 
that affords you an opportunity to express your- 
self as does the writer, the painter, or the poet. 

With helpful suggestions to guide you, you'll 
find yourself creating original arrangements for 
special holiday occasions that will prove conver- 
sation-starters . . . and you'll enjoy the satisfac- 
tion of being able to have effective flower '"pic- 
tures" in your home. 

Let's start with required equipment. If you are 
to derive greatest pleasure from flowers, you'll 
find a varied assortment of containers of primary 
need to translate your beautiful ideas into beau- 
tiful flower arrangements. 

A collection of inexpensive containers in vari- 
ous colors, sizes and shapes (see picture) will 
eliminate the annoyance of "never having the right 

When you are going to use roses, iris, columbine 
or any varieties of lilies, which are all refined 
types of flowers, a glass container should be avail- 
able. The ordinary garden flowers such as mari- 
golds, calendulas, snapdragons or stock seem bet- 
ter suited to colored pottery. And when you want 
a colorful, old fashioned bouquet, a Victorian vase 
with the handles, completes the picture. At least 

This is the first in a seriet 
of explanatory flower ar 
rangement stories 6) 
Laura E. McVay . . . 
series to help you find in 
spiration in the familial 
flowers in your own gar 
den, in florist's rarest 
blooms, and most exciting 
of all . . . in the excite- 
ment of finding new deco- 
rative materials, drift- 
wood or weeds or what- 
ever your own imagina- 
tion suggests. 

one low flat bowl is a "must" for so many kinds 
of arrangements. 

When selecting a container, avoid the one with 
ornamentation. This is confusing and detracts from 
your flowers. Brass and copper are lovely for 
yellow or bronze flowers and are particularly suited 
to an early American home. If you must be satis- 
fied with only a few containers, be sure to have a 
chartreuse one, for this color seems to complement 
most any flower. 

Add to your containers an assortment of frogs, 
(picture) light wire, plasticine and a sturdy pair 
of pruning shears. There are several types of 
frogs but the indispensable one is the pin or spike 
style. If possible, have several sizes for the dif- 
ferent stems. Type #2 shown in the illustration 
is often placed on top of #1 and is convenient to 
have in reserve. Light wire or "Twist-ems" wil 
often hold a willful stem in its proper place. 
W hen a number of small stemmed flowers are used. 
wire them together and place them together in the 
frog as one stem. Of all the "props," plasticin 
will become your most useful. 

Now that you have flowers, container and frog 
selected, find a comfortable chair! A relaxed atti- 
tude and frame of mind go a long way toward 
a successful arrangement. Visualize the picture 
you want to create and you will find the flowers 
slip into place much more easily. 







A' 7" // E C OVER : 

Playmates in corduroy, 
bright flash of the new 
season, by Junior Miss 
of California. Jacket, 
vestee and shorts are a 
wonderful team . . . or 
worn as "separates." 
Sizes 9-15. jacket about 
$15. vestee about $5, 
shorts about $5 at The 
Broadway, Los Angeles; 
Buff urns'. Long Beach; 
Franklin - Simon, N eiv 

Tom Binford photo. 












i FASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason 

FASHION EDITOR .Virginia Scallon 


|MEN'S FASHION EDITOR..... Malcolm Steinlauf 

i FASHIONS .'...Jacquelin Lary 

Edie Jones 
Margaret Paulson 

FEATURES Helen Ignatius 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

> ART ..Morris Ovsey 

John Grandjean 

Ann Harris 

Jane Christiansen 



FOOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 

California fashions 

Hitch Your Wardrobe To A Star 15 

Charlie McCarthy Whistles At Shorts 16 

Demurely Flirtatious 18 

Henry Fonda's Rainy Day Advice 20 

Gregory Peck Likes Knits 22 

Jack Benny Eyes A "Small Figure" 24 

Irene Designs Clothes With An Air 32 

California Suits 38 

Classic Or Free-Flowing Design 40 

Romantic Clothes Appeal To James Stewart 45 

Accessories Are Final Touches 46 

Childhood Fancies 49 

Lithe Lines 50 

California features 

Jimmy Swinnerton's Debt To The Desert 26 

Dig Up The Past 28 

Styled By Irene 30 

"The Craziest House In America" 34 

Irene Dunne. California Millinery Queen 42 

In California It's 48 

California living 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 36 

What To Wear 52 

THE CALIFORN1AN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Saul Silverman, eastern advertising manager, 
Empire State Bldg., Room 101+, 350 Fifth Ave., LOngacre +-02+7; San Francisco Office, 
Leonard Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1+72; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & 
Associates, 21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West 
Grand Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; 
$5.00 two vears; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside con- 
tinental L T nited States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as 
second class matter Januarv 25, 19+6, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under 
act of March, 1879. Copvright 19+9 The Californian, Inc. Printed in C.S.A. Repro- 
duction in whole or part forbidden unless specifically authorized. 

war t* -t rt 1 -; 

«£$* V ; V- '''•*;& 

Hitch Your Wardrobe To A Star 

Who are they? Do you 
recognize the famous pic- 
ture stars silhouetted on 
the opposite page? We 
identify them for you 
on page 54, but right 
now let us introduce 
them as our Hollywood 
fashion panel. Here are 
their ideas on clothes 
that make a woman at- 
tractive to men . . . time- 
ly now in this month of 
Valentines and sentiment 

No need to be an astrologer to know that the brightest stars of Hollywood have great in- 
fluence on the fashion taste of the world. What "they" wear in their screen roles or in their 
personal lives, inspires the world to new fashion daring. 

Indirect, but even more far-reaching is the influence they wield through the California 
fashion designers who sometimes create clothes especially for the screen, and always for 
glamour-conscious women who identify the California label with originality and freshness. 

Now you've seen thousands of pictures of what these famous women players wear, just 
as you've seen hundreds of motion pictures where the feminine stars are beautifully dressed 
... in the California fashion. 

But we have a different idea. We want you to know what the masculine stars think 
about fashions. Not that we believe women should buy clothes just because they appeal to 
their favorite he-men in pictures . . . but we do feel these men are competent judges. Sur- 
rounded by lovely clothes (on lovely women), they know a thing or two about effective 

So here they are, the men we chose for our movie panel of fashion . . . top flight stars 
of stage, screen and radio. Nevertheless, they have the ordinary mortal man's eye for a 
well-dressed woman, and definite opinions on the qualities that combine for beauty. 

On subsequent pages we quote them specifically, but in general we can assure you that 
the most sophisticated star of the screen, the most outdoors-y type . . . they all prefer 
purposeful clothes, fashions suited to the individual and the occasion. 

We think they're right. We've always stood by the premise that becomingness should 
be your ultimate aim in planning your wardrobe. And we feel . . . always have . . . that 
one kind of clothes best expresses your personality. The California kind! 

Marty Cobin's afternoon dress, opposite page, in Robaix print, bias 
ruffles on bolero and skirt; sizes 10-16, about $39. Weyman hat. 


Charlie McCarthy interrupts Edgar Bergen to say 
"What I like hest in clothing . . 
That's why shorts are so wonderful . . . more of women. 



Pared to a beautiful minimum, above, left, brief shorts 
with knitted blouse, by Hollywood Premiere. Sizes 1048, 
about $19 at Carson's. Chicago; Maison Blanche, New Orleans. Dan Gertsman's flannel coat, right, about S20 at J. W. 
Robinson. Los Angeles. Joy Kingston's Celanese shorts, vest, knit coat, about $42, Neiman-Marcus. Dallas; Goldwater. Phoenix. 

•(— Be a magnificent hobo, left, in Blair's sturdy pants, gypsy blouse in Nashua print, about $20 at Bullock's. 
Palm Springs; Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills; Lindner-Coy, Cleveland. Right. Fleischman's denim pedal 
pushers and jacket, sizes 9-15. about $13. 



Charlie McCarthy has an eye for cottons with sunshine touches: this page, left, striped Coolcord with pique 
collar and cuffs: Junior Miss of California. Sizes 9-15. about $15 at Peck & Peck, New York; Bullock's. 
Pasadena. Right, the new lines in Fluegelman gingham, by Dale Hunter. Sizes 10-20. it's about SI 8. 

Demurely flirtatious, left, pique with gingham apron: Lanz of California. Sizes 9-17, about S38 at all Lanz stores. Right, striped 
Aambray cuts a pretty figure in a Madalyn Miller original, sizes 9 17. 10-18. about S18 . . . perfect dresses to give that enchanted air. 


"Men like the kind of outdoor clothes 
that hold their own with the 
elements," says Henry Fonda, star of the 
Broadway hit, "Mr. Roberts." 

Be a pretty picture on a rainy day. Checked to shine 

in the rain . . . Viola Dimmitt's water repellent fabric coat, opposite, 

full, flared and hooded, sizes 8-18. about $40 at 

Bullock's. Los Angeles; L. S. Strauss. Indianapolis. 

Right. Raamell's pert little rainy day coat in Cohama elkskin. 

with glistening gold buttons, sizes 9-18, about $40. 



"Knitted clothes look 
like a million to me . . . never 
appear to go out of fashion," says 
Gregory Peck, soon to 
be seen in M.G.M.'s "The Great Sinner." 

)ne touch of genius . . . hand knits with a regal air 

Opposite page left, white flannel skirt, cardigan 

dged with felt, gold braid; Lenni of California. 

Knit sweater, flannel skirt, dotted with gold 

stars; Suse, center. Gold and gray banded 

sweater, knit skirt; Naun Liljencrantz, right. 

This page, knitted skirt, blouse, jacket; Lenmar 


"I like a pretty little price tag 
for a small figure," says Jack Benny. 



Good fashion involves good taste, 
selection . . . and we recommend these 
chosen for dollar and eye appeal. 
Outlined at right, striped and plain 
Bates chambray: Lawson of California. 
Top row, left to right, to match or 
not. F. B. Horgan's pedal pushers, 
bra, pocketed coat. Faded blue denim 
separates, even hat . . cording details: 
Koret of California. Fly-away sleeves 
on blouse; four-gore skirt in Sandeze: 
Roberts Mfg. Co. Murray Goldstein's 
two-piecer in Oscar Hyman rayon- 
cotton cord. Second row, left to 
right. Ameritex woven chambray: 
Casual Time. Robert Gould's dress, 
built-in bra ties in back: Ameritex 
cotton. Andrea Gay print bolero dress. 
Snyder knits, two-tone dress and 
jacket. Lower row, left to right. 
Max Kopp's Empire dress in faille 
or sheer. Stripes accent waistline of 
Eleanor Green crepe dress. 
Marty Cobin drapes Mallinson crepe, 
appliques flower motif for off- 
shoulder or softly full neckline. 
Jourdelle's formal in Celanese taffeta, 
capelet and bustle back interest. 


, v ' : - 


<&r- t 

14 '9 





a famous cartoonist's 
painting, winning" 
new critic acclaim, is 
a hobby 56 years old 


by alice carey 

TO MANY the desert means wasteland and death. Jimmy 
Swinnerton found life and beauty there . . he won a new 
fame. Always anxious to honor a favorite citizen. Holly- 
wood has paid another tribute to James Swinnerton for his 
ability to transform nature to oils. At a recent showing 
in Hartwell Galleries. Beverly Hills, critics were unani- 
mous in acclaim for his thirteen paintings, each demon- 
strating vividly the awesome beauty of the great South- 

Doubling back and forth between canvas and cartoon. 
Swinnerton is well known as the creator of "Little Jimmy," 
beloved character who appeared in the first comic supple- 
ment in the United States. And although one of the few- 
successful desert artists in America. Swinnerton claims that 
his painting is "a fifty-six year old hobby." This statement 
is destined to bring frowns to the foreheads of our nation's 
art curators, many of whom have shown his work, but fac- 
tually the comic strip remains Swinnerton's livelihood, as 
it has since 1892. 

A native Californian, Swinnerton spent his boyhood on 
his grandparents' fruit and cattle farm at San Jose. Grand- 

father, a hearty forty-niner retired from mining, continued 
his own lusty theories on western manhood and encouraged 
Jimmy accordingly. At an age when today's Junior is learn- 
ing to use a bicycle, the seven-year-old Swinnerton was 
on the range learning to shoot. At fourteen, having con- 
cluded that he'd reached man's estate, Jimmy left home 
to seek his fortune in the time-honored fashion. 

A year of odd jobs brought Swinnerton to San Fran- 
cisco and another year at art school was "devoted most- 
ly," he confesses, "to caricatures of the professor." He 
was rewarded for this dubious pastime at 16 when he be- 
came a sports and political cartoonist on the San Fran- 
cisco Examiner. Permitted to apportion his time among 
sports, senators, and a novel innovation, the comic car- 
toon, he created "Little California Bear." which appeared 
in 1892 as the first comic strip feature. 

Eventually comic strips clowned their way into America's 
juvenile hearts and Swinnerton traveled to Chicago, New 
York and Boston, assisting in the organization of the first 
comic supplement in which "Little Jimmy" made his debut. 
Shortly after the turn of the century, ill health forced 


Swinnerton to return to the West and here, recuperating 
at an Arizona desert retreat, his line-loving eye met the 
challenge of grim beauty. In monumental splendor great 
rocks rose from the arid wastes, and the searing loveli- 
ness of a desert sunset bathed thorny bushes and twisted 
trees with scarlet radiance. Here was born Swinnerton's 
never-ending reverence for the desert. 

Although he continued with his comic strip and added 
"Canyon Kids," a color magazine feature, to his successes, 
Swinnerton turned to the desert for inspiration in his paint- 
ing. Practically alone in his admiration for a sweep of 
sand and stone, he persisted in his landscapes until he won 
recognition, not only for his artistic accomplishment, but 
for the desert itself. 

To achieve the amazing reality of his scenes, Swinnerton 
spent forty years studying the desert, the canyons, the 
mountains. He traveled with John Weatherill, discoverer 
of Rainbow Bridge, into the Mesa Verde, Kitsil and Bata- 
takin ruins. He back-tracked through the Indian cliff- 
dwellers' culture and developed a healthy respect for the 
workmanship of the Hopi tribe, their descendants. Even- 
tually he had collected enough examples of early art to 
lend some of his treasures to the Museum of Natural His- 
tory and Stanford University. An authority at last on the 
trackless territory of Arizona's desert lands, he was asked 
by Zane Grey and Jesse Lasky to guide them to a choice 
location to film "The Vanishing American." 

His eyes appreciating the glory of the desert, and his 
mind accepting its magnitude, Swinnerton soon found that 
he had also lost his heart to the Southwest. Out of the 
canyon silences and screaming sand storms came a convic- 
tion of the absolute perfection of nature and a Power. 
This conviction tints his brush as truly as the oils he mixes 
. . it is evident in the dignity of his work and his faith 
in the color combinations of nature. 

Critics and laymen alike are affected by the realistic 
quality of his landscapes which seem to 
plunge the onlooker far beyond the scene 
represented. One gallery visitor moved 
nervously away from "the edge" of the 
"Grand Canyon," because of the impres- 
sion of height. Even critics lose the cold 
phrases of clinical observation. Kay 
English of the Los Angeles Examiner said, 
"Breathtakingly beautiful . . each painting 
projects a joyous sensation." Alma May 
Cook of the Los Angeles Herald an- 
nounced, "His exhibition runs the gamut 
from the sheer peaceful beauty of the 
desert to the drama of Monument Valley." 
A master of color, Swinnerton predicts 
"education for the eye," which he believes 
is sorely needed. Emphasizing the fact 
that children are surrounded by pianos, violins, record- 
ings and music lessons to train the ear, he bemoans the ig- 
norance of most humans regarding color. 

Art students who appeal to him for aid in their en- 
deavors are sent hustling to California's forests, streams, 
mountains and seashore to "learn how nature blends 
color." Only nature is faultless in combinations and con- 
struction, according to Swinnerton, who points out with 
annoyance that man designed the sharp corner. 

Swinnerton brings the feel of the desert to his Holly- 
wood studio and workshop . . the walls are decorated 
with Indian relics, chairs are covered with skins and rugs, 
and the artist himself, now in his seventies, wears the 
kerchief, checkered shirt and cowboy boots of the outdoor 
man. Here he keeps his canvas and drawing board, work- 
ing with the facts of nature and the fiction of "Little 
Jimmy." As he moves from one medium to another his 
boot heels ring on the uncarpeted floor, giving lie to the 
prediction that he went back to the West to "die with his 
boots on" . . forty years ago. 

ittle California Bear 

'Grand Canyon" is a realistic scene to many 

Popular "Smoke Tree in Shavers Wei! Canyon" 
The feathery "Mesquite Trees by Salton Sea" 


Willy Stahl is a Hollywood paradox . . famous musician, artist and archeolo^ist 


In Los Angeles, where a dress designer's latest crea- 
tions are incentive for elaborate cocktail showings; 
where a remodeled supermarket sends engraved in- 
vitations to customers, and the opening of a drive-in is 
heralded by kleig lights and movie stars' personal ap- 
pearances, it's refreshing to find at least one man who 
takes the long view toward civilization. 

Willy Stahl discovered Hollywood for himself in 
1934, having come from New York with a satisfying 
list of musical accomplishments, went on to augment 
his renown as an artist, and now has literally dug his 
own niche in the international hall of fame by the dis- 
covery of a lost "city" of California's Dawn Man. 
Named for him. the "Stahl site" will go down in the 
archives of archeology, thus permanently resolving his 
private conflict with oblivion. 

No happy accident this, for Stahl has been a life- 
long student of archeology, and during the last decade 
has become a seasoned explorer, working as an associate 
with the Southwest Museum of Los Angeles. 

It was in this capacity that Stahl was engaged at the 
time of his great discovery last November. So important 
historically are the mineralized human bones, animal 
bones, spear heads, cutting points and grinding stones 
which he uncovered two miles north of Little Lake in 
Inyo County, that the Southwest Museum immediately 
organized a research expedition. Headed by Curator 
Mark R. Harrington of the Museum, which is entirely 
supported by private subscription, the expedition has 
been laboring for months to uncover "Pinto culture" 
relics that have lain undisturbed in a positive, original 
location for at least 3.000 years . . . and they may date 
back even to the wet Glacial Age, more than 15.000 
years ago. 

But before we dig into this paleontological miracle, 
and it is fascinating to speculate upon the earliest resi- 
dents of California. let's talk about the man who brought 
it about. 

Willy Stahl is first of all a professional musician, 
trained at Imperial Conservatory of Music in Vienna, 
where he studied violin, piano and composition from 
1910 to 1913. After graduation he returned to his native 
New York City to play the violin with the Russian Sym- 
phony under Modest Altschuler. the famous conductor. 
He also played with the New York Symphony and the 
St. Paul Symphony orchestras. 

Commercial theatre work claimed him for a time. 

and he was director of music at the Rialto Theatre for 
five years. But he never lost touch with serious music, 
and turned much of his attention to composing. He 
ascended the pinnacle of musical accomplishment in 
America when his original tone poem, "Dead Forest," 
was introduced with the warm praise of the critics in 
Carnegie Hall by the National Symphony Orchestra in 
April, 1934. Other orchestral works published in his 
New period include "Niagara Falls," "Continental Di- 
vide," "Symphony No. 1." Later works include "Sym- 
phonic Trio," a triple concerto; and several chamber 
music compositions. At present Stahl is completing 
the orchestration of "Suite For a Large Orchestra," 
which is nearly ready for publication. Indicative of 
his passionate love for the native scene, the first move- 
ment is entitled "Wide Open Land," the second, "Pro- 
gressive Industry," third, "Vigor in the Field," and 
fourth, "Strength in Peace Time." 

He came to Los Angeles in 1934 to write music for 
the movie studios and radio, working first at Paramount, 
where he wrote theme music for a series of educational 
agricultural short subjects to be used by the State De- 
partment in South America. He scored "The Navy Way," . 
"Dark Mountain," "Timber Queen," and wrote the orig- 
inal music for John Nesbitt's "Passing Parade" on radio. 

Almost anybody would figure this was quite a full 
career . . not Willy Stahl. This man radiates creative 
energy because he is essentially a humanist, interested 
in life and people, color and music and the great out- 
doors. It was his love of the outdoors, and humanity, 
that impelled him to archeology. And the beauty that he 
finds in nature led, quite naturally, to his interest in art. 
So, about ten years ago, just for fun, Willy Stahl start- 
ed to paint. He did a few watercolors for a lark, and 
suddenly found that his interest was intense. He decided 
to teach himself; studied the works of his contemporaries, 
the old masters, the realists, the cubists, the Orientals. 
He experimented with different techniques, different 
media. He began to use oils. When he had accumulated 
about 100 paintings, he asked a friend of his, an art 
connoisseur, if he thought they were any good. Stahl 
says, "I didn't know whether they were good or not." 
He suggested to his friend, the critic, "Maybe I could 
have an art exhibition as a musician." 

So Stahl had his first exhibit and received solid en- 
couragement from the critics. Since then he has had 
many one-man shows and been included in almost every 


Willy Stahl deserted New York following his debut in Carnegie Hall 

exhibit of contemporary consequence. 

Picked at random from critical clippings is this by 
Herman Reuter of the Hollywood Citizen News: 

"In his latest exhibition of oils and water colors, at the 
Blenthal Gallery . . Willy Stahl, composer-violinist, re- 
veals once more his airy and delightful spontaneity as a 
colorist. He deals to an extent with fantasy . . but fan- 
tasy as it concerns painting, the putting together of pig- 
ments, a knack as rare as curls on a pig. His work 
shows that he feels deeply whatever he does. He differs 
from many of his confreres, however, in that, as a rule. 
he doesn't let emotion run away with him, but insists 
on coincidental intelligibility. Few painters have his 
sensitiveness for textural qualities or his imaginative 
bent." This was in July, 1939. 

His fame as an artist has constantly increased, and 
his paintings are now valued additions to the permanent 
collections of the John Decker Gallery. Fannie Brice. 
Mrs. Armand Deutsch. Vincent Price, Greta Garbo, 
Harry Crocker and others. He has exhibited at the 
Triple A Gallery (Association of American Artists I. at 
the Los Angeles Art Association and the John Decker 

Well, you may ask. granted that it's not too impos- 
sible for a violinist-composer to turn his talents to paint- 
ing, still. "How can the guy be an archeologist. too?" 
This question only amuses Willy Stahl. To him it's 
I the most natural thing in the world. He feels that 
! archeology, music and art are all related emotionallv. 
! And. remember, he loves the great outdoors. When we 
: dropped in to see him in his modest home in Holly- 
' wood, he was tying flies for fishing. He likes to hike and 
climb and dig. Obviously, he can neither write nor 
i play music in the wilds. And he does his painting at 
home, too, reconstructing scenes from memory. He in- 
! sists that his painting influences his music. 

and his archeology influences both his music . 

; and his art. 

Because he loves the study of the lives of 

human beings who have long since disappeared 

from this world, Stahl set himself to become 

| a really professional archeologist. That he suc- 

| ceeded in uncovering the first "Pinto deposit." 

i or under-surface layer of bones and artifacts of 

' prehistoric peoples, which cannot be identified 

with any previously known civilization, proves 

! that \^ illy Stahl. archeologist, is one of the best. 

'Backyard" is one of Sfahi's most praised paintings for its color and perspective 

Deserf rock inspired "Stratification" 

'tittle Rock Dam" was recreated in his studio 



"Good style never changes . . . 
good designing never dies." says 
Irene, studio designer for 
Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer. Here we 
show you some of her favorite 
tricks in creating costumes 
not only for screen stars but 
for the public as well. One 
favorite technique is the use of 
thin lines of beading to accent 
a gown. On this page, gowns 
for Barbara Stanwyck, Jeanette 
MacDonald and Katherine 
Hepburn. While beading 
catches light, it is not dis- 
tracting. Opposite, left, a good 
design that's still good . . . 
Marlene Dietrich's 8-year old 
gown, designed for entertain- 
ing overseas, is still in active 
use. Making a suit an integral 
part of a wardrobe, Irene 
favors a touch of white at 
the neck. Especially 
in pictures, she uses 
black net or chiffon 
over nude fabric, as opposite, 
the dress for Deborah Kerr. 




Irene, Head Designer, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 

Has Her Own Smooth Way With Feminine Fancies 

Irene Designs Clothes 
With a Gentle Air 

Since she opened the doors of her own exclusive salon 
in Culver City about two years ago. Irene has clung 
to her personal belief in the function of fashion . . . 
to make woman more appealing!) feminine, a picture 
wherever she goes. 

Yielding to no foreign dictates of style, she has de- 
veloped her own fashion credo, is quick to admit that 
the simple elegance of her clothes stresses dignity of 
figure, grace of carriage. 

Her airy studio, sought out by stars and fashion-wise 
women of the world, is only a stone's throw from Metro 


Goldwyn Mayer studios where she is busy as head fashion 
designer. During her six years at this major motion 
picture studio. Irene has developed an infallible sense 
of drama in fashion. Despite this, she never brings the 
over-emphasis of cinema styling into her exclusive line 
of couturier clothes, now carried by 26 of America's 
leading stores. 

\K hile her line includes impeccably tailored suits, 
afternoon and casual clothes with a gentle air, it is her 
evening clothes we bring you here . . . the pure for- 
mality of the Empire tunic gown of silk jersey with 

cascade of lilacs, opposite page, left; or navy silk crepe 
with scalloped bone bodice and pleated stole, at Bullock's. 
Los An°;eles; W. Filene's, Boston. 

This page, the very new "early evening" fashions 
. . . left, in moss green silk taffeta, the portrait neckline 
and irregular skirt length are style notes. At Ransohoff's, 
San Francisco; Bergdorf & Goodman, New York. Right, 
platinum flamisole, a fabric, with billow skirt. African 
safety pin ornament: at W. Filene's. Boston: Joseph 
Home. Pittsburgh. 


Dining room once adorned "Black Pirate" set 

by william kennedy 

Jack McDermott, the 
fabulous man of films 

B &J HIGH in the Hollyw 1 Hills 

^k overlooking the San Fernando 

^L Valley stand- "the craziest 

|| "jfl house in America" . . a monu- 

ment to the whimsy and in- 
genuity of the man who built 
it entirely by hand from stage 
props used in lavish productions of the silent 
screen era. 

Master of the fabulous hillside castle was the 
late Jack McDermott, brilliant and versatile 
writer, director and actor, world traveler and 
professional Merry Andrew, who made the house 
a Hollywood legend and the epicenter of the 
film colony after-dark revelry in the gilded days 
when Valentino was the reigning idol. 

In the early 1920's when McDermott first 
came to Hollywood, it was smart and profitable 
to pose as an eccentric, and he soon became 
known as the daffiest of them all. Seeking a 
secluded spot to finish his scenario of "The But- 
terfly Man" for Harold Lloyd, he moved a 
piano box up into the hills and made it his 

weekend home. Then, as the years went by, he 
began to build, room by room, using rock dug 
out of the ground for the foundation. At first 
it was just a hobby, but in time it became his 
main interest in life. 

Huge pieces of scenery from the film sets, fan- 
tastic minarets, wrought iron and flagstone, and 
ornately carved doors were acquired from the 
studios and hauled up the narrow pass to be- 
come part of the rambling castle. Located so 
high above the valley, the address was listed as 
"Cloud 6. Hollywood." 

Hand-carved jade and thousands of pieces of 
Florentine tile were brought back from his 
travels in Europe and the Orient. Other unusual 
pottery, statues and paintings from every corner 
of the world were sent to him by friends in the 
movie colony. In a few years the house emerged 
as a fantasy of subterranean passages, sunken 
gardens, shaded patios and ivy-covered roofs 
crowned with arabesque minarets . . a fusion of 
an Oriental joss house, the witch's hut in Han- 
sel and Gretel. and (Continued on page 52) 



1 1 

One of subterranean passageways lead- 
ing to swimming pool from lower patio 

ffie house that jack built 
of treasures of many 
movie sets became the mecca 
for holly wood' s great 
in the roaring twenties era 

Spider design in import- 
ed tile by swimming pool 



- : 

By Helen Evans Brown 







IN CALIFORNIA the 1949'ers have 
discovered what fun it is to cook. And 
at the moment it's pie. Everyone seems 
to be discovering at once that almost 
any food, when properly seasoned and 
sauced and encased in some kind of 
crust, is both exciting and economical. 
Even Hollywood, once concerned more 
with the throwing of pies than with 
their creation, is now busy thinking of 
new ways to fill a pie dish, new ways 
to cover it. Thus creamed fish is 
topped with pancakes, bacon and eggs 
are disguised in a crisp suet pastry, 
and onions are covered with a thick 
crust of cheese. 

Every cook has his own opinion about 
the making of pastry. Mine is to use 
half lard and half butter, or all lard, 
a habit which has caused many an 
eyebrow to elevate. Two-thirds of a cup 
of shortening to two cups of flour, with 
a full teaspoon of salt. If I want the 
pastry extra rich and flaky. I roll it 
out. dot it with butter, then fold and 
roll it several times. For meat pies, 
especiallv kidney pies. I have another 
favorite: I buy the kidneys (beef I still 
encased in their protecting fat. This 
I remove and render in a slow oven. 
When cooled it makes a superb pie 
shortening, giving the crust a crisp- 
ness and flavor that is extra special. 
Another trick for meat pies is to add 
an herb or poultry seasoning to the 
crust . . a teaspoonful for each two 
cups of flour. 

"To eat humble pie" is no punish- 
ment today . . at least for those who 
like kidneys, sweetbreads, or such. Not 
so during the Tudor reign when the in- 
nards or "umbles" of an animal were 
looked upon with disdain. It was the 
custom to make them into "pyes" and 

serve them to those of low rank who 
sat "below the salt," while those whose 
blood ran bluer were fed with prime 
roasts, lark's tongues and other deli- 
cacies. When guests were in disfavor, 
or children . . even grown ones . . failed 
to show proper respect to their elders, 
thev were exiled to the foot of the table 
to "eat humble pie" and meditate upon 
their sins. Today a sweetbread pie is 
sheer luxury, and a kidney pie a de- 
light for epicures. In California steak 
and kidney pie is very popular. We make 
it in the English manner, cooking the 
meat in the crust. 


i Skin and core a beef 
or veal kidney and 
cut it into pieces. Have 
two pounds of tender 
round steak sliced thin, and cut it into 
strips about two by four inches. Dip 
the meat in seasoned flour, making sure 
that it's covered all over, then roll a 
piece of kidney in each strip, press- 
ing together firmly. Put the rolls on 
end into a baking dish, packing them 
close together so that they will hold 
their shape. Add a quart of very rich, 
well-seasoned meat stock, put a rather 
thick crust of pastry on top. and seal 
the edges to the dish with beaten egg. 
Pile the scraps of pastry that are left 
on top of each other and roll them an 
eighth of an inch thick. With a pastry 
wheel or a sharp knife cut shapes of 
leaves and flowers ( or birds and beasts 
if you prefer! and decorate the top of 
the pie in your most artful manner. 
Brush with an egg that has been slightly 
beaten with a little water, and bake 


for an hour and three-quarters to two 
hours at 350 degrees, covering the crust 
with brown paper if it becomes too 
brown. If you insist, you may have a 
bottom crust, too. 

Ham as the piece de resistance at a 
buffet supper is practically standard 
equipment the country over. In Cali- 
fornia its banality is somewhat lessened 
by the dishes that are served with it. 
One such . . and a terrific one . . is 


Slice six large onions so thin that you 
can see through them, and cook them 
until they're wilted in a half-cup of 
butter or ham fat. Scald two cups of 
rich milk, season it with a half-teaspoon 
of salt and a few grindings of black 
pepper, and add four beaten eggs. Line 
a pie tin with pastry, add the onions. 
pour over the egg-milk mixture, and 
sprinkle the top thickly with grated 
cheese. Bake as you would a custard 
pie . . which is actually what it is . . 
and serve hot. 

One of the nicest things about having 
a baked ham is that there is almost al- 
ways enough left for a ham and oyster 
pie, a dish so utterly perfect that you 
have to ask friends in to share it. An- 
other party! 


A rich crust for this one, please, but 
only a top one. This is because oysters 
have to be handled tenderly . . cooked 
just enough to warm their hearts so 
that they will be as tender as the day 
they were spawned. The crust is baked 
separately: make the kind of pastry that 
I mentioned above, the dotted-with-but- 
ter variety. Roll, not too thin, on a 
piece of waxed paper, and cut it in a 
circle slightly larger than the top of the 
pie dish it is to fit. Chill. Meanwhile 
cut left over baked ham into half-inch 
cubes, two cups of them, and add to a 
quart of cream sauce (one-half cup 
butter, one-half cup flour, 4 cups of rich 
milk, a teaspoon of salt, and a quarter- 
teaspoon of monosodium glutamate.) 
Heat well in the casserole in which 
the pie is to be served. At the same 
time put the crust on a cookie sheet 
and bake until a pretty brown. Now 
add a pint of oysters to the ham mix- 
ture and heat until they become plump 
and their edges curl. Very carefully, 
using two spatulas, lift the crust (which 
is hot!) from the cookie sheet to the 
top of the pie, and serve it forth. (A 
half-pound of sauteed mushrooms may 
be added to the filling. Did mushrooms 
ever do anything any harm? I 

Tamale pie is not my favorite dish, 
but as it is a favorite with many Cali- 
fornians. I must be wrong. Certainly 
it is an inexpensive dish and a filling 
one, which makes it a smart thing to 
serve when one has to feed a hungry 


Brown a minced clove of garlic and 
a cup of chopped onion in two table- 
spoons of shortening. Add three cups 
of cubed cooked meat, preferably pork, 
though beef, veal, or chicken are often 
used. Now add a tablespoon of chili 
powder, a quarter-teaspoon of ground 
coriander or oregano. two cups of 
canned tomatoes, and salt to your taste. 
Cook slowly for twenty minutes then 
add a cup of pitted ripe olives. The 
"crust" is made either with corn meal 
mush or with masa (masa is the dough 
from which tortillas are made. Un- 
less you live near a large Mexican 
population, forget it and use the mush. ) 
For a quart and a half of mush (six 
cups of water, two of corn meal, one 
tablespoon of salt) or the like amount 
of masa. add two tablespoons of melted 
lard and work smooth with your hands. 
Line a casserole with two-thirds of the 
mush, add the meat mixture (and. if you 
wish, a cup of diced Monterey Jack 
cheese) and spread the remaining mush 
on top. Sprinkle the top with grated 
cheese and bake in a slow oven for 
an hour. 


Mince a medium-sized white onion and 
cook it in a half-cup of butter or short- 
ening. Add a half-cup of flour, cook 
two minutes, then add two cups of 
cream or top milk and two and a half 
cups of fish stock made from the trim- 
mings and bones of the fish (or use 
all milk if you can't be bothered!). 
When smooth and thickened, season 
with salt and pepper (monosodium 
glutamate. too, if you can't stay away 
from the stuff), then add two and a 
half pounds of any cooked white fish 
(or salmon) that has been cut into 
not-too-small pieces. Set this mixture 
aside. Now butter a casserole and mix 
up a batch of your favorite pancake 
batter. I Prepared mix may be used, but 
be sure to add extra liquid so that you'll 
have thin cakes.) Now make a thin 
pancake the size of the bottom of the 
casserole and put it just there . . in the 
bottom. Make more cakes and arrange 
them around the sides, overlapping each 
other and the bottom cake and having 
their edges hanging over the top. Do 
you get the picture? You should have 
a dish completely lined with pancakes. 
looking very much like a pastry-lined 

dish before it's trimmed. Now add the 
fish filling, which, incidentally, may be 
flavored with Sherry or Vermouth, or 
have mushrooms, almonds, or ripe olives 
added to it. On top goes another pan- 
cake and those hanging over the sides 
are folded up over it. If I've described 
this correctly, you now have a mighty 
pretty dish on your hands . . one nicely 
scalloped. Before serving it, put it in 
a moderate oven until it's thoroughly 
heated. With a salad and some cheese, 
you have an epicurean supper that may 
be made for a song, and one that's 
worth singing for. 




Mince a large 
onion and a clove 

of garlic, and saute in two tablespoons 

of your pet shortening. When it's trans- 
parent add two pounds of hamburger, 
and let it brown slightly, breaking it 
with a fork. Now sprinkle in a table- 
spoon of flour and a half-teaspoon of 
herbs (try marjoram or basil or tar- 
ragon), and salt and pepper to your 
taste. Add two cups of water and cook 
slowly for ten minutes, then add either 
a jigger of brandy or a half-cup of red 
wine or tomato puree. Cool. Now line 
a well-buttered casserole with mashed 
potato that is well seasoned and has 
been mixed with whole eggs (you'll 
want two eggs for four cups of mashed 
potatoes). Chill, add the meat mixture, 
and spread more potatoes over the top. 
Brush with melted butter, and bake at 
350 degrees until the pie is hot and 
the top a gorgeous brown. 

'"Four and twenty blackbirds baked 
in a pie" was no gag dreamed up for 
the amusement of children. There was 
a time when such a dish was set before 
a king. Kings were apparently difficult 
persons in those days, getting petulant 
and sometimes downright vicious if 
their cooks didn't provide sufficient nov- 
elty in their culinary creations. The 
harassed cooks tried baking pies with 
a variety of fillings: "surprise pyes." 
These were elaborate beyond belief: 
huge edifices built of pastry in various 
shapes. One. fashioned like a stag, was 
filled with claret (a neat trick. I should 
say I. and when a lady guest was per- 
suaded to pluck an arrow that was im- 
bedded in its side, the blood-colored 
wine gushed from the "wound." Charm- 
ing? The crusts of some innocent-look- 
ing pies were cut and out hopped live 
frogs and birds "which made the ladies 
to skip and shreek" and "caused much 
delight and pleasure to the whole com- 
pany" or so said Robert May in 1660. 
"Surprise pyes," at least the ones filled 
with objects better suited to menagerie 
and aviary are, fortunately, no longer 
in vogue, but any pie can be a surprise. 
Next time your meal of leftovers shows 
signs of mediocrity, top it with a crust. 
Then at least you'll rouse some interest 
in what lies beneath! 


California suits . . . softly tailored with a suave 
hint of sophistication. Left, Lilli Ann's 
deeply cuffed sleeves, slim skirt, worsted 
gabardine. Center, petite proportions in striped 
jacket, solid color skirt; Gaines & Co. 
Right. Kay Saks uses contrasting colors, 
fine Botany gabardine. 


Classic or free-flowing, you'll love the season's new coats and 

suits! Left, beloved gabardine by Queens of Hollywood. Sizes 10-20, 
7-15. About $60. Above, below, a shortie with modicum of flare, fitted yoke 

detail. Juilliard wool; Jack L. Goldberg. Sizes 10-38. About $60. 
J. \*i. Robinson. Los Angeles; Kahn's. Oakland: City of Paris. 

San Francisco. Right: Beautiful cardigan gabardine suit by 
Rosenblum. Sizes 10-20. $49.95. Carson's. Chicago; 
Roos Bros.. San Francisco: The May Co.. Lcs Angeles. 

Irene Dunne . . California Millinery Queen 

Irene Dunne, Queen of California Millinery for Spring of 1949. has always thought 

the hat makes the woman. The success of her first screen test depended upon the choice 

of just the right chapeau. She searched through the studio's millinery and finally 

% L 




borrowed the hat the wardrobe mistress was wearing. From that day on Miss Dunne. 

star of "I Remember Mama." a George Stevens production and RKO release, has 

made sure that hats were part of her ensemble. The lovely jewelled, flowered and feath- 

ered hats she wears here were created for her by ten leading California milliners. 


"A man is flattered by a woman who dresses for romance," says 
James Stewart, star of the MGM production, "The Stratton Story." 

For dinner-dancing or gay cocktail parties . . . exciting off-the-shoulder dress in tissue faille, 
Andree Gay Creations. Charming gathered skirt, molded waist, sizes 7-17, 8-18, under $35. 

^— Opposite page, designed to steal hearts . . . for your Stardust evenings, a Valentine in red and white dotted swiss, 
by Emma Domb. Sizes 10-16. about $30. Macy's, San Francisco; The Paris, Salt Lake City; Sanger Bros., Dallas. 




New suede bags by 
Ben Brody in a bright 
color counterpoint 
to the basic theme of 
navy, black, grey, beige, 
brown . . accented with 
decorative gold-plated 

A trio of bags as glowins 
complements to your 
suits and dresses. Above: 
a diagonal envelope 
with smart slanted 
closing flap, knotted 

Above right: classic 
simplicity in a square 
satchel. Right: 
feminine appeal in a 
pretty bag shaped like a 
small flower pot. 

Color at the Tip of Your Fingers 


Wedgie with a vivid 
promise of spring and 
summer by "Vic" Colton, 
left. Intricate straps 
doubly flattering. 
In either suede or calf. 

Lovely cross-strap 
calf shoe, below, designed 
for comfort as well as 
beauty by Ted Saval. Full 
range of exciting 
colors. At fine stores. 

And the Tip of Your Toes 

Lemon, rosy-beige, avocado, dusty pink, sun- 
bronze, kelly, flag red . . . these are some of the 
new spring and summer colors for shoes and bags, 
brilliant accents in the California manner with 
early spring tweeds, linens, chambrays, or gabar- 

With a flair for styling shoes with comfort, 
beauty, and originality, our California designers 
were pioneers in the colorful playshoe. derivative 
of the dainty ballet slipper and Grecian sandal. 
This same flair evident in shoes for beachwear 
and active sports has been translated to footwear 
for the cocktail hour and late-in-the-evening. 

Eye-catching patterns, superb detail, dramatic 
California colors . . . these are the qualities which 
distinguish the striking bags by our designers. At 
the tips of your fingers and the tips of your toes. 
you"ll have a bright sparkle of color with these 
lovely new bags and shoes for spring and summer! 





RUTH KAPELSKY is one of the 

few women who can unravel the 
mysteries of a stock exchange. As 
secretary of the San Francisco mart 
she is a top authority on the gov- 
ernment's security market regulation. 

RUSS WESTOVER was head office boy for South- 
ern Pacific when he discovered he'd rather draw 
than run a railroad. "Tillie the Toiler" emerged in 
1921 after a stint on the San Francisco Bulletin; 
Westover has been godfather to Tillie ever since. 

EYVIND EARLE and his wee daugh- 
ter, Kristen, are happy to be in Cali- 
fornia even though the artist earns 
money by painting pictures of snow. 
Earle's winter scenes are widely ac- 
claimed for greeting cards . . his "Long 
Island Snow Scene" hangs in the 
Metropolitan Museum. Still, his artistry 
is part-time. He works for architects. 

that three children didn't take up 
enough of her time; started turning 
out fine lithographs from the basement 
of her San Francisco home and now 
enjoys an international reputation. One 
print hangs in Library of Congress. 

geles claims to be the housewife's 
dream. He swept away a hundred 
years of tradition with the inven- 
tion of a plastic broom, designed, 
he says, for "electrostatic action." 


;an Durain has an eye for dainty femininity . . . created 

j this series in organdy, matelasse effect in assorted colors: 

ft, ruffiy dress is accented with eyelet embroidery, sizes 3-6, under $7.95: sizes 

Il2, under $8.95. Above, petite pinafore and below, assorted color apron effect dress 

combined with plain white organdy. Both in sizes 3-6, about $7.95 ; sizes 7-12, about $8.95. 


Lithe Lines 


For a striking figure . . . foundations with freedom of 

action. This page left, "Radiant" bra and 

power net girdle; both by Charmfit of Hollywood. Center, new strapless 

bra from Mam'zelle. Right, "Curvaceous" evening bra by Anne Alt. 

Opposite page left, Lov-e's custom fit Hi-Point bra. Right, deep 

plunge bra by Helene of Hollywood for decollete necklines. 



ut'fts in the 

\jalifornia manner 



with your first name (or kiddie's name) too! For 
the nursery, child's board features hand-painted 
illustration of child and balloons; while kitchen 
blackboard features hand-painted fruit. Both 
boards measure 12x16 inches. $2.95 each, post- 

FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become 
a champ with this trick spinning rope. Comes 
with complete directions, $1.00, postpaid. Child's 
spurs in white and gold metal. Fits over any 
boot or shoe. $2.95. postpaid. 

TINY TEPS: Step-up for the youngsters, and very 
handy for bathroom use. Aluminum frame, paint- 
ed plywood steps, non-skid rubber feet. Shipped 
flat, easily assembled. $3.95 (add 25c post- 

No C.O.D. — please. Send check or money order. (Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2'/j% sales tax J 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 




Shortest month of the year, but in 
California February is crammed full of 
exciting things to do . . . from the 
thrill of races at Santa Anita to the 
peace of the desert (Palm Springs is 
just over a hundred miles from Los 
Angeles), from the heady whirl of a 
social season to the calm satisfaction 
of mild winter. 

Lest we mislead you, let it be said 
here and now that February is inclined 
to leak at the cloud-line, so bring a 
raincoat, rubbers, umbrella! And in 
planning your California travel ward- 
robe, there are a few basic rules to 
simplify your packing problem: 

Visualize your whole wardrobe in 
terms of a basic suit, then expand to 
fill all anticipated needs (and all avail- 
able luggage). One all-purpose suit 
can be varied with gay sweaters, tailored 
or frothy blouses, one of the new- 
jewelled bibs or scarves. With a match- 
ing or blending topcoat . . . furs if you 
have them . . . and at least two hats to 
fit your mood! 

The soft wool casual dress is advised 
for comfort and all-round wearability. 
For the rest, bring evening clothes 
only if you have specific and formal 
engagements planned. A long skirt to be 
worn with a dress-up blouse will suffice 
in all but most elegant instances, while 
a cocktail suit or afternoon dress will 
be invaluable. A new spring print, re- 
freshing and gay, is another sugges- 
tion for important occasions. 

Your itinerary will decide the rest of 
your wardrobe ... to include swim and 
sun suits and summer whites for a desert 
stay, snow togs for the mountains. 





Average maximum 62.0 
Average minimum 45.4 
Highest 75. 
Lowest 40. 



(Continued from page 34) the stately pleasure ', 
dome in Kubla Kahn. 

The dining room was made from the cap- 
tain's cabin on the Spanish galleon used in 
the Douglas Fairbanks picture, "The Black 
Pirate," and the guests dine at a low inlaid 
oak table while seated on camel cushions. The 
minarets came from the "Thief of Bagdad," 
and the fences around the tiled patios were 
part of a temple set in some long-forgotten 

The fireplace boasts a huge copper kettle," 
and the mantle is lined with oriental objets 
d'art, Persian water-pipes, museum pieces of 
Asiatic pottery, and a cocktail set made ofu 
tiny skulls which was a gift from Jack Demp- 
sey. In the corner hangs an armory of an- 
cient guns and swords once wielded in the 
epic battles of the screen. And on the walls 
are exquisite dining plates that date back toS 

A labyrinth of dark subterranean passage- 1 
ways which honeycomb the ground under the 
hillside, the sliding doors and panels lend an 
eerie touch to the fantastic abode, which con- 
trasts startlingly with the sun-bathed swim- 9 
ming pool inlaid with thousands of hand- 
painted French and Italian tiles in a spider 

It was inevitable that such a storied castle Si 
should become the scene of gay film colony 
parties, and in the years gone by it rang with 
merriment by night. A butler was stationed 
at the entrance to a tunnel in the side of v 
the hill, and the guests made their way 
through the passageway which terminated in 
a manhole, with steel cover, next to tie fire- 
place in the living room. 

When McDermott was entertaining at a 
stag party, he would sit cross-legged on one . 
of the cushions, beating on a ceremonial Afri- 
can drum. When the rhythmic tom-tom reached 
a crescendo the tunnel cover would slowly 
lift and dozens of scantily clad dancing girls 
would undulate into the room. John Barry- 
more was a constant visitor . . he remembered 
the house vividly, because he once fell down 
the steps into an underground stairway. The 
silent screen stars, Colleen Moore, Norman 
Kerry, Greta Nissen; the writers, Nunnally 
Johnson, Gene Fowler and Adela Rogers St. | 
Johns, and the directors, Rex Ingram, Jacques , 
Jaccard and scores of others gathered nightly 
after their filmland chores. Jaccard today oc- 
cupies the house alone. 

It was McDermott himself, however, who 
primed the parties by getting up many an 
elaborate gag. In one of the guest rooms he 
installed a fireplace under the bed, and the 
main utilitarian appurtenance in the bath- 
room was equipped with an ear-splitting siren 
whose unseemly and unexpected noise always 
embarrassed the uninitiated. One of his fa- 
vorite pastimes was taking his friends for a 
ride at a breakneck clip around the moun- 
tain roads in his Model T Ford. When they 
complained about the danger, he would calmly 
lift the steering wheel off its post and hand 
it to the horrified passengers. The victims 
didn't know that the car was rigged with a I 
foot-steering device. The gag backfired one 1 
night, however, when he removed the steering 
wheel and then discovered that the foot 
apparatus was out of order. McDermott and his I 1 
passengers frantically leaped out of the car |i 
just before it shot off a cliff and crashed 
to pieces on the rocks below. 

His was a fabulous existence, and he lived I 
it to the hilt in his hillside castle for a quar- IB 
ter century before he grew weary of life, || 
Then, one black night in July 1946, at the I 
age of 53, he drew the curtains in his tile- i>! 
walled bedroom and shut out the world with !>' 
an overdose of sleeping pills. 

It has been called "the craziest house in 1 
America," but to those who watched it rise 
from the brow of a hill it will always be The 
House That Jack Built . . a perennial me- 
mento of the man who built it and the glory 
that was Hollywood in the days gone by. 


THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 


by hazel alien pulling 

Where To Buy California Hand Prints 

California Hand Prints, appearing on the second cover, are available at the 
dlowing stores: 

ine of the high points in current 
iliforniana is Owen C. Coy's In 

Diggings in 'Forty-Nine (Los- 
ngeles. California State Histori- 

Association. 131p.S3.00) Writ- 
n by a scholar who has devoted 
ars to the study of California's 
old Rush era and whose lectures 
1 the subject at the University of 
uithern California annually at- 
act scores of students, this ac- 
unt is a definitive study of the 
bject. From an introduction that 
lowers the oft-repeated question 
why the gold deposits lay where 
ey did. the narrative poceeds to 
ace the opening of mines and the 
tablishment of camps wherever 
ck led the way. From northern 
ountains through the Sierra Ne- 
da and on to southland ranges, 
ch camp is meticulously located 
id its history traced. Life "in the 
ggings" is then sketched with 
nphasis on mining methods, 
aim staking, and the develop- 
ed of political and social modus 
vendi. Sketch maps and a full 
hliography accompany the rec- 
ti. A large scale map of the gold 
ea may be purchased separately 
>r S2.00 unmounted or $10.00 on 
oth. Together, the map and the 
rrative provide the first complete 
tracing of the gold region of 
ilifornia as it was during those 
ctic days of 1849. 


A book for nature lovers is the 
new Yosemile and the Sierra 
Nevada published recently by 
Houghton Mifflin Company. This 
is a collection of the famous photo- 
graphs of California's wonderland 
by Ansel Adams each one enliv- 
ened by appropriate excerpts from 
the writings of the noted naturalist. 
John Muir. Together they form a 
unique combination of the best in 
photography, nature, and litera- 
ture. The book is well worth the 
price of $7.50. 


Two new works of fiction whose 
locale is California are Virginia 
Meyers' Angelo's Wife, a story of 
the Spanish era that bears some- 
thing of the throbbing vitality of 
Gone With the Wind (Bobbs-Mer- 
rill. S3.00). and Lee Atkins' // 
This Be My Harvest, a tale of 
present-day life in the rich San 
Joaquin Valley (Crown. $3.00). 
Widely separated in the time each 
depicts, these novels are rewarding 
reading for their history of diver- 
gent eras as well as for their val- 
ues in pure entertainment. 

Editor s note : If you would like 
Dr. Pulling's interpretation or 
recommendation on further Cali- 
forniana, please write to her in 
care of The Californian. 

ARIZONA: Sasson, Albert Steinfeld. 

CALIFORNIA: Glendale, Godwin's; Los 
Angeles, Bullock's; Napa, Carithers; Pasa- 
dena, Bullock's; Santa Cruz, Samuel Leask 
& Sons; Santa Maria, W. A. Haslam & Co., 
Inc.; Watsonville, The Charles Ford Co. 

COLORADO: Colorado Springs, Hibbard 
Co.; Denver, Fredericks Fabrics, Inc.; Pueblo, 
Colorado Fuel & Iron Corp.; Trinidad, 
Jamison's Dept. Stores. 

FLORIDA: Daytona Beach, Yowell-Drew- 
Ivey Co.; Fort Pierce, Rubin Brothers; 
Gainesville, Nelson's; Ocala, Rheinauer's; 
Orlando, Yowell-Drew-lvey Co.; Pensacolo, 
Bon Marche; Sanford, Yowell Co.; Tampa, 
Adolph Katz. 

IDAHO: Lewiston, The Emporium; Moscow, 
David's Inc.; Pocatello, Fargo-Wilson-Wells; 
Twin Falls, Idaho Dept. Store. 

ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Co.; 
Evanston, Marshall Field & Co.; Oak Park, 
Marshall Field & Co. 

MINNESOTA: Minneapolis, The Dayton 

MONTANA: Billings, D. J. Cole Co.; Kali- 
spell, Winkler's. 

NORTH CAROLINA: Durham, Ellis Stone & 
Co.; Goldsboro, The Hub; Greensboro, Ellis 
Stone & Co.; Statesville, Ramsey-Bowles Co. 

NORTH DAKOTA: Fargo, O. J. De Len- 
drecies Co. 

NEW YORK: New York, Lord 8. Taylor. 

OHIO: Celina, Rentzch's; Norwood, Floto's. 

OREGON: Albany, Hamilton's. 

TENNESSEE: Dayton, The Dress Shop; John- 
son City, King's, Inc.; Knoxville, Miller's, 
Inc.; La Follette, La Follette Dept. Store; 
Sevierville, The Corner Store; Rogersville, 
Rod Armstrong & Co. 

TEXAS: Gainesville, Clayton Dry Goods Co.; 
Graham, The Morrison Co. 

WASHINGTON: Bremerton, Bremer's Dept. 
Store; Enumclaw, Jensen & Co.; Olympic, 
Harris Dry Goods Co.; Okanogan, C. F. 
Blackwell & Co.; Puyallup, Elvins Co.; 
Morton, Elvins Dept. Store; Seattle, Fred- 
erick & Nelson; Spokane, The Palace; 
Toppenish, Graham-Leimig Co.; Walla 
Walla, Gordon & Co. 

WYOMING: Casper, Gordon Stores; Chey- 
enne, The Fashion; Sheridan, Stevens 
Fryberger & Co., Inc. 




. 1 j 


Will not 


paper or 



derwriters Laboratories: 
Commissioner NYC 








Money Back 

Dept. Water, Gas & 

about 1,000 watts t or 
approximately a Kilo- 
watt per hour. Heats 
you directly. Floor- 
ceiling heat variation 
only about 4 degrees ; 
puts heat near floor where needed. 
RADIANT heat makes you comfortable at 
several degrees lower room temperature. Con- 
tinues to give off heat for over half hour 
after it is disconnected. Invented in France. 
Used to heat Magi not Line. Lessens effect 
on humidity and oxygen. No flames — no glow 
— no fumes — no light. t No moving parts or 
blowers. No more roasting on one side, freez- 
ing on other. No more red-hot coils. Designed 
for toughness. Element consists of aluminum 
alloy fused into back of tempered, break-re- 
sisting glass at high temperature. A _ glass on 
both sides radiates heat in all directions. Ex- 
cellent source of supplementary heat. Hand- 
somely framed 15"x20" in polished aluminum, 
fitting any decorative scheme. AC or DC. 
Made for 110 volts; 220 volts on request. 
Just plug it in. 7' electric cord. H. B. of N. J. 
writes: "It is all you said it is and more." 

Send check or money order today. Shipped 
express charges collect. Shipping weight 21 lbs. 

PARNflGPY'^ 29 Centra! Ave., Dept. RH-1600 
UHnilHULI O Tarrytown, New York 


lrling "Little Pancho," most typical figure 
the West, has now been handcrafted into 
vein- originals . . . vou'll love them for 
iirself, and as gifts for your friends. Light- 
ight, about 1" high, vour choice of silver 
gold. Attractively gift-boxed. 

ff links..... SI. 95 pair 

ap-on scarf holder S1.9S 

ids, set of 3 $2.50 

{not shown) 

ni attire earrings Si. 75 pari 

niature stickpins SI. 00 each 

uxury tax included. Add 2^% sales tax 
tn California, 3% in Los Angeles.) 


Dept. 405 
1215 S. Norton. Los Angeles 6. Calif. 


for YOUR Valentine 

ZUNI BRACELET, pictured: a 
gem of a gift, Sterling silver, 
paved with 12 to 15 hand-cut 

each S2.95 

Sterling silver twists to wear in 
pairs, or multiples, or with other 

pair $1.90 

Prices include Federal tax and postage 


Gallup New Mexico 

THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 



as You Grow Older 






(1) REMOVES blackheads, white heads, and 
tissre debris. 

(2) CORRECTS enlarged, clogged pores, dry 
skin, oily skin, sallowness, and blem- 

(3) CLEARS the skin of acne and pimples. 

(4) SMOOTHES wrinkles, and erases facial 

(5) TIGHTENS sagging cheeks and double 

(6) INCREASES circulation and tissue nutri- 

(7) VITALIZES nerve, gland, muscle and 
skin structure. 

(8) RESTORES natural, lovely skin. 

Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest 

A I ham bra 2021 Primrose Ave. 

Belmort Shore 203 Glendora Ave. 

Berkeley 1762 Solano Ave. 

3155 College Ave. 

Fresno 3097 Tulare St. 

Hollywood 1627 N. Cohuenga Blvd. 

Glendale 1123 N. Brand Blvd. 

Long Beach 742 Pine Ave. 

Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd. 

900 S. Norton Ave. 

Modesto 322 Burney St. 

N rth Hollywood 12131 Riverside Dr. 

Oakland 1225 Broadway 

Pasadena 258 S. Las Robles Ave. 

Pomona 200 E. Center St. 

San Francisco 150 Powell St. 

San Jose Porter Bldg. 

San Mateo 318 B. Street 

Santa Ana .405 Vi N. Broadway 

Santa Monica. ...271 E. Santa Monica Blvd. 

Imported from Italy 

Salt & Pepper Shakers 

Far and away the cutest salt and pepper 
shakers seen are these authentic Chianti wine 
bottles 3 5 2 " tall. Sure conversation sparkers 
for informal supper parties! Perfect gift and 
collector's item ! 1 green, 1 red. 
Send check or money orders. No C.O.D.'s. 

flsjMUVtcf yfy 

HOTEL COMMODORE • 42nd ST. t LEX. AVE.. H. T. 17 


spinning HHjeeLs 

An attractive ornament for your home and 
and interesting gift. This miniature spin- 
ning; wheel stands 15" high with a lS 1 /^" 
wheel. Expertly handmade from choice 

It costs only $12.50 P°«P°'d- 
No C.O.D.'s please 



792 Maple Ave. • Glen Rock, N. J. 


"SunKroft Originals" 


"ORCHID" — A realistic, gorgeous orchid makes up 
itriking set. Flower of orchid color, set on mirror 
black base. 5" diam. 
$4.50 Pr. Postpaid. 
CAN" — Delightful 
pitcher & bowl, in the 
form of sparkling can- 
dleholders, 4/' high. 
Mirror black, pastel 
green, # pastel blue, 
sunshine yellow, wild 
orchid. $4.00 Pr. Post- 
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s 

"SunKroft Pottery" 

330 West 15th 

Panama City, Florida 


Californian's Fashion Panel of Stars 

Here they are! The Californian Magazine's star-studded guest list of stat 
screen, and radio personalities who were invited to comment on their preferen 

in fashions. 

1. Charlie McCarthy 

2. Gregory Peck 

3. Louis Jourdan 

4. James Stewart 

5. Robert Taylor 

6. Henry Fonda 

7. Jack Benny 

Throughout the pages of the magazine, you'll find the frank opinions of the 
masculine stars as they discuss what they like in women's clothes. And typical 
these comments is the remark of Robert Taylor, co-star of MGM'S "The Bribe 
who said, "Women's playclothes designed for a purpose, for life outdoors, make tl 
most sense to me." On the other hand, Louis Jourdan, David O. Selznick star ne: 
to be seen in "Madame Bovary," leaned more to the starlight mood. "The cloth 
I like . . . should be demure but flirtatious and their charm should be elusive 

In general, we discovered this . . . that out of the dream-world of stardom, mr 
are just men, with an eye for appealing women's fashions . . . and with a definite 
approving nod for California's designs! 

Handmade Leather Pouch Bags 

Softest leather is used in this exquisite handmade 
pouch bag. It's deep and roomy, all leather lined, 
with safety catch fastener. Shoulder straps detach, 
so it may be carried as a handbag. Sold exclu- 
sively by us. Your choice of saddle brown, choco 
late, seal brown. Continental green, red, black, 
navy blue or natural. 

t11 Ifl (p' us 20% luxury tax, 

JII.JJ 2'/n% sales tax in Calif., 

3% sales tax in Los Angeles) 

I M 


tOS ANGEtES 36, 


7tW^^«6»;\..D0 IT THE EASY WAY! 

with the 

Garment Rack 


• No more wrinkled clothes 

• No pocking— no pressing bills 

• Holds many garments 

• Fits all cars— no tools needed 

• Does not obstruct rear view 

Made of sturdy, rust-proof aluminum, weighs 
1*4 pounds. Hangs over doors in hotel, cab'n 
or home. Adjustable, collapsible, compact. Im- 
mediate shipment ! Postpaid, send check or 
money order — C.O.D. postage extra. 

Patents applied for. Money back guarantee. 


1 rack v 

$^ Postpaid 
for O in U.S.A. 

So Precious! 

— So Fresh and 

irect to You 

Bayfort's "Cameo" Chair is so darling — so 
remindful of an exquisite, jewel-like picture 
frame, for your Victorian or 18th Century 
fireside or bedroom. Choose it in pairs, prefer- 
ably, and in fine Velvet — rose, blue, green or 
lipstick red; single, $39.50; a pair, $77.00. 
Or, in plain faille — rose, wine, blue or green ; 
single— $34.50 ; a pair— $66.25. Check or 
money order. (No C.O.D.) Express for 35 
lbs. is collect. Button tufted seat and back; 
coil spring seat. H. 32"; W. 23"; D. 26". 
You'll enjoy our prompt attention and this 
easy way of guaranteed shopping. 

//MORE and MORE 

you want LESS and LESS 


You'll wear them with 
all your casual and for- 
mal clothes! 


Black or Nude Lace 



Yellow or Blue Sheei 


Send check with order 
No C.O.D.'s accepted 
We prepay all orders 
Include hip size. 




BOX 23-C 

THE CALIFORNIAN, February, 1949 


Buy tlie Easter Surprise dress at: 

Davison-Paxon, Atlanta, Ga. 

Furchgotts, Inc., Jacksonville, Fla. 

Louella Shop, Bakersfield, Calif. 

Mary Helen Shop, Palm Springs, Calif. 

Younker Bros., Des Moines, Iowa 

and other fine stores or write Jean Durain, 

230 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 13 

Fabric Tells the Fashion Story . . . 

For little ladies. . .in Her Ladyship* Matelasse organdy, 
Easter Egg frosted . . . glimpsed through the bright eyes 
of Jean Durain. White on Iris blue, peppermint pink or 
navy and all white. Size 3-6, under $8, 7-12, under $10. 

JN . rluegelman & co., inc. 

1412 Broadway, New YQrk 18, New York 




incomparable new worsted gabardine 

It has a fluid, lively drape. 
A rare bloom and smoothness. 
And a gift for long long wear. 
Townpar is an imported 
tissue-weight thoroughbred 
worsted wool with a new 
luxuriousness for suits and 
sports clothes, or by the yard. 

*Rtg. U. S. Pat. Off. U A division of United Merchants and Manufacturers Inc. 


(All FOR 


MARCH, 1949 

«,> O 

A 6 




rfllinc-naves fashions 


Fresh as salt air. ..bright as breakers! Jean Durain 
finds inspiration in the softly rolling waves of 
the California shoreline, translates them into 
easy-to-launder dresses and sun-clothes of Hope 
Skillman's Sanforized, satin-striped chambray 
and sail-white pique. Balboa Blue, Dawn Mauve, 
Peach Ice Cream. 

Sizes 3-6 Sizes 7-12 

sun dress $6.95 $7.95 

pique jacket 3.95 4.95 

midriff blouse .... 1.75 1.95 

skirt 4.95 5.95 

At B. A/fmon & Co., New York; Marshall Field, 

Chicago; Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia; Burdine's, 

Inc., Miami; Yarings, Austin, Texas; 

Pixie Town, Los Angeles. 



No. 2 


E CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc.. at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U. S. A. Yearly sub- 
ption price $3.00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office, Los Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879 


* ■■■ 7 

AND FOUR TO GO," in tri-color checks 

Four basic pieces to make fun of yotir summer, a weekender wardrobe in woven rayon, 
including man-tailored jacket with skirt and pedal pushers in kelly-royal-white checks. Sno- 
Silk blouse in your choice of these same colors. All in Bullock's Coordination Shop. 

A Jery Grinel design from 


SIZES 10-18. 
JACKET $17.95 

SKIRT $14.95 

BLOUSE $10.95 




MAN -tailored for 
a short girl 

marvelous new liosenblum 

classic . . . snort jacket, 

slightly elevated waistline, 

tailored specially for 

girls Jive feet four or under 

. . . tailored with all the 

marvelous Jttosenblum 

mannerisms . . . easy drape, 

beautljully-set shoulders, 

hand-picked edges, pencil- 

slim skirt. In stunning 

100% virgin wool menswear 

worsted ... in supero- 

quality covert 55.00 . . . 

doeskin flannel 45.00 

. . . wool gabardine 49.95 

. . . sizes 10 to 20. Other 

marvelous Rosenblum 

suits for average and tall 

figures, the finest tailored 

suits, the best tailored 

suit values in America 

. . . at Jine stores. 

liosenblum, L,os Angeles 

MAN ~ tailored in Calif orni 


Ames, Iowa 

Boston, Mass. 

Chico, Calif. 

Chattanooga, Tenn. 

Charleston, W. Va. 

Cleveland, Ohio 

Detroit, Mich. 

Evansville, Ind. 

Fresno, Calif. 

Honolulu, Hawaii 

Hutchinson, Kan. 

Indianapolis, Ind. 

Jamestown, N. Y. 

Nashville, Tenn. 

New York, N. Y. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Portland, Ore. 

Sacramento, Calif. 

St. Louis, Mo. 

San Francisco, Calif. 

San Jose, Calif. 

Seattle, Wash. 

South Bend, Ind. 

Tyler, Texas 

Vicksburg, Miss. 

Youngstown, Ohio 


"the topper" of the season: by Sport-Lane of California 


Here's the coat sensation of spring ... a swing jacket you'll love 
to wear with skirts, slacks or suits. It's a talk-making plaid in vivid 
hues of red, green, rust or blue, sizes 10-18. Under $_LT.0U 





For further details w r i t e JANE TAYLOR 9 4 5 South Los Angeles Street, LOS ANGELES 


With this sure-fire 
Blue-Ribbon Winning 

£>fZ4/lt in 

by tg^ Crown 



A skirt with a tremendous fashion 
significance, cut from this won- 
derful fabric in true tropical 
weight. 40% wool and 60% 
rayon CRUISE-COOL in a soft 
plaid. High button-up pocket and 
button tab at front hemline. Sub- 
le shades of BROWN . . . GRAY 
. . BLUE. Sizes 22 to 30. 

Winner of Blue Ribbon Award for Skirts 
860 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 14. 

THE C All FO RN I AN, March, 1949 


&ca<aJe c^cxfrtz&f &€ 

Jtaei fafr. 

the new MAM'ZELLE 

,<**•"• ' \ 


Made in 


— not just four basic cups — but 7 in all sizes 

( a - A >/ 2 - B- B Vi -C -CV2 - DK 

Especially if you're an "in-between" size, you can 

now find a Mam'zelle to fit you perfectly . . . give you 

perfect contour molding — without alterations. 

No custom made brassiere could fit you better. 

Designed by Madame Suzanne Redares, famous 

Parisian corsetiere, Mam'zelle incorporates the 

patented "Cross-Lift" construction and bias cup that 

" make it the most beautiful, most flattering 

and best fitting brassiere. 

Mam'zelle's lovely fabrics are guaranted pre-shrunk. 

You can't "wash out" the shape of a Mam'zelle. 

Visit One off These Many Fine Stores Today 

In all colors and materials: 

from $2.50 to $5.00 


MAM'ZELLE BRASSIERES, 6558 Santa Monica Boulevard, Hollywood 38, California 








■9 * 

gives the bolero 
suit a new line — the trim, 
cupped-in bolero above 
a stem slim skirt! Rayon faille 
Navy, grey, green, red. 
Sizes 9 to 15. $10.95 


Plus. 254% stale sales lax 
Buffums' Young Californian Shop 
•Keg. U S Pal Oil. 





Stolen from the California sun, 
the softest pastels and natural 
colors ... in this exclusive 
Dutch Girl linen yarn. It's ideal 
for fine knitting of spring and 
summer dresses and suits. 
Lightweight, pleasing to the 
touch and delightful to the eye. 

At better department stores and yarn shops, 
or write direct 

the ftridgetOH Co., inc. 



It's Fun To Decorate 


ALL-CRAFT Permanent Colors 

NOW you can easily add 
dramatic, colorful charm 
to any material with this 
big, exciting kit of per- 
manent colors. You can 
handpaint ties and 
scarves, monogram 
blouses, turn inexpensive 
glassware, bric-a-brac in- 
to_ lovely gifts and show- 
pieces! Colors go 
smoothly on any surface 
; — are bright, fast-dry- 
ing, washable, blendable, 
sunfast, scratchproof ! 
Simple directions show 
you how to bring new 
life to lamps, shades, 
table linens, make colorful vases from old bot- 
tles, add decorator's charm to a breakfast nook 
or complete nursery! 

2 iars Red, Yellow, Blue, Extender; J Black, White, 
Green, Glaze — 6 Stencils — Instructions and De- 
signs — Stencil & Freehand Brushes! ONLY .... 

Efch Lovely Designs On Glass In Ten Minutes! 


You'll be amazed how easily you can etch any 
type of glass with this remarkable new kit ! 
Process is simple — takes only minutes ! Follow 
the simple, ABC directions and you'll achieve 
dramatic frosted effects — etch graceful designs and 
monograms on mirrors, trays, bowls, etc. — make 
a set of ordinary glassware look like "Fifth 
Avenue" ! 

CONTENTS: Large Tube Etching Cream, I 
Jar Asphaltum, J4 Pint Turpentine, 2 Camel 
Hair Brushes, Instructions & Designs. 


Money Back Guarantee! C.OD.'s Plus Postage. 
Send Orders To: 



_ -. ii.-- ' " ' "~~ 





*ww M|i 

HIGH HAT HAM . . . ancient rules fc 
making Smithfield ham are set by Virgin: 
law, protecting the name "Smithfield" fro: 
use by imitators. This aristocrat of the dinn 
table must be peanut-fed razorback pig, cure 
smoked and aged by a 300-year-old formul 
Genuine Smithfield ham, correctly prepare 
by old plantation recipe, beautifully garnisl 
ed and baked to golden brown with suga 
spices and frequent bastings with Sautern 
is offered by Colony Ham Co., Inc., 505 Fla 
iron Bldg., Norfolk, Va., in 8 to 12 pour 
sizes at $1.95 per pound, postage $1.00 (51 
per ham extra West of Miss. 


saves your eyes and your patience! This ne 
Thread-A-Matic, durable plastic with prec 
sion steel mechanism, enables you to threa 
needles with one finger, in a few second 
It threads needles from 3 to 9, thread froi 
36 to 100, cotton, silk, nylon, or mercerizi 
To simplify sewing, and an ideal gift fc 
Mother's Day and Easter, Thread-A-Matic : 
just $2.95 plus 10c postage. Guarantee, fu 
instructions and gift box are included. Sen 
check or money order (no C.O.D.'s, please 
to Whitlew Sales Co., 2186 Noble Roa. 
Cleveland 12, Ohio. 

TAILORED LIPS ... by Charles Murea 
is a combination lipstick brush you'll adon 
A fine sable brush, fountain lipstick coi 
tainer (holds an entire lipstick refill an 
uses every bit ! ) and perfume dispenser, a 
in this attractive gold-plated tube just 4 
tall! Simple classic design, of finest mati 
rials, made with precision workmanship. Fi 
Mother's Day and Easter gifts, for your pun 
and dresser. Guaranteed, just $5.00 plus 13 
tax in Calif., 15c in Los Angeles. The Ma 
gorita Shop, 1018 S. Main St., Los Angele 
15, Calif. 

GOLDEN GLITTERS ... or Silver Shee 
are these exquisite stockings of Willys < 
Hollywood. Featuring clocks and darts of 2' 
karat gold or sterling silver, applied wit 
Changold — washable, durable. 15-denier Di 
Pont nylon, seamed or seamfree; sandalfoo 
semisandal or conventional. In rich '49ei 
colors: pay dirt; gold dust: mica brow 
rose quartz: red earth: shovel tan. For Easte 
street-wear and dress . . . sizes 8 to 11, cu 
torn-made, $8.95 the pair. At May Co. Wi 
shire, Los Angeles: Carson's, Chicago: I 
Altman. New York. Or write Willys of Holl; 
wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Cali 

TRAVELMAID . . . designed for your ow 
selection of cosmetics and overnight need 
Travelmaid swings lightly overarm, pad 
easily within a larger case. Fitted with plasti 
jars, boxes, two bottles, and pockets for vol 
nightwear. Skinner's black nylon faille wit 
waterproof blue nylon lining. 9 1 / £"xll 1 / 4"x3' 
weighs only 18 oz. Use as bag. zip open thre 
sides to lie flat, hang by handles inside ou 
$14.95 plus 20% tax. Marston's, San Diego 
Lichtenstein's. Corpus Christi : Robinson' 
Los Angeles: Best's Apparel, Seattle. Or wril 
Travelmaid, 3831 Ingersoll, Des Moines, low; 







X3TIOIN DISPENSER . . . most ingenious 
roduct of the year. At last, a practical dis- 
enser for hand lotion, baby oil, suntan lotion 
you*ll find it a must for bedroom, bath, 
ilchen and beach. A touch of the button, 
nd out pops just enough lotion, without fuss 
r mess. The durable plastic dispenser holds 
large supply, and is most attractively styled. 
•nyx. pink or blue, just S1.98 postpaid (plus 
c tax in Calif., 6c in Los Angeles). Send 
our order to Alvin Enterprises, Dept. C, 509 
lorth Fairfax, Hollywood 36, Calif. 

:OOLIE PAJAMAS . . . beautifully styled 
an authentic oriental manner. Frog clos- 

gs are a feature of the free-fitting jacket. 

rousers are perfectly tailored. Designed for 

tdoor living, gardening, housework, or just 
bunging about. There's a wide array of lovely 
| plors — pink, green, blue, red, etc. And you 
I pay choose trousers to match, or in black. 
I 111 are fast colors that wash perfectly. Small, 
I (ledium or large, $9.95. Add 2y 2 % sales 
B in Calif., 3% in San Francisco. Send 
I Iheck. money order or C.O.D. to R. L. Fuerst, 
111 Grant Avenue, San Francisco, Calif. 

J.ITTLE FIRE FIGHTER . . . keeps little 
I jlazes from growing big. "Hero" Fire Ex- 
1 (nguisher shoots an 18-foot fighting stream 
lust by a pull of the handle. It smothers 
llasoline, paint, oil, wood and other kinds 
| if flames. Needs no inspection. No refilling. 

t'ways ready for use. You'll want the "Hero" 
r the feeling of safety it gives, and you'll 
ant it in your home, garage, car, boat and 
Gee. 3 for $3.80—6 for $7.50. Write Ham- 
lacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th St., New 
jrk 22, New York. 

U-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . sewed 
iroughout with 100% nylon thread, finished 
nth nylon tape, and nylon elastic garters, 
'his power net smooth-fitting girdle dries 
n four short hours, fits so well that squirming 
nd yanking are things of the past ... no 

■ealing seam-lines under slickest dresses. 

.u'll have smoother, prettier hip lines for 
faster with this Su-Z Girdle. Step-in (shown) 
r pantie (short or medium legs). Black, nude, 
r white, postpaid just $10.95. Send meas- 
rements of your waist, tummy, thigh, over- 
11 weight, and height to Su-Z, 2920 W. Ver- 
on Ave., Los Angeles 43, Calif. 

HJTCH GIRL POUCH . . . year's clever- 
st innovation in a knitting bag, simulated 
lligator with durable metallic lining and 
ransparent lucite top . . . you can find every- 
ling easily and show off your bag's con- 
:nts! Wonderful with sportswear, an in- 
enious beach bag, handy for lunches, too. 
his versatile Dutch Girl pouch, in red. green, 
rown or black. 8". $2.50 postpaid: 14", 
a.00 postpaid. Add 2V 2 % sales tax in Calif., 
% in Los Angeles. At department stores 
nd yarn shops. Or write The Bridgeton Co., 
20 South Main, Los Angeles 14, Calif. 

HE CALIFORNIAN, March, 1949 



J. AS. 1 

vrill.L-T >IIOP IN IftJl 

OLOGNES with the traditional 
English bouquet, created exquisitely 
by Atkinsons of Bond Street, 
can now be bought at the finer shops. 




iMPosrco »v 
299 MADISON AVt.. NEW YORK 17, ft T. 

Second Edition of 

California Cooks 

By Helen Evans Brown 

A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's 
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex- 
clusively in THE CALIFORNIAN. 

Recipes. Menus. Articles on cookery. But NOT a 
cook book. Rather a book on California cuisine. 
A distinguished cuisine influenced by the Missions, 
by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by California vine- 
yards and citrus groves, by the desert, by the 
Spanish fiesta days, by patio living and barbecues, 
by picnicking in California, by the seashore and by 
the lavish days of old San Francisco. 

Kumauat Marmalade . . Napa Kidney Saute . . 
Spaghetti Ventura . . Potio Salad . . Barracuda San 
Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . . California Almond 
Sauce . . Fresno Fritters . . Ojai Orange Sauce 
for Duckl 

It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans 
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READING 




The first edition sold out completely. This one is 
greatly enlarged. Has a new cover — in color. Makes 
a smart gift! 


1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of CALIF0 RN IA COO KS 




(City, State and Zone) 
Enclosed is payment for □ copies at $1 each. 


Now it's SHANTUNG... 

Rayon Shantung 

The dress that will steal the show everywhere . . . 
perfect to the last eye-catching detail, 
from the four shining buttons marching betwee 
double pleats, to the pressed-to-the-hem 
pleat of the skirt. 

In Calishan ... an acetate and rayon 
Shantung, custom converted in 
California by 



Style No. 898: Sizes 9 to 15, naturally 

Colors: Sunshine Gold, Misty Pink, Locust Tan, 

Navy, Natural, Ocean Aqua 
About $15.00 






t : max kopp dresses 818 s. bdwy., los angeles 14, California 


Produced by Helen Kopp 

you in the new Empire 
silhouette with slenderizing 
clipped waistline in back, 
sparked with two coy bows. 
Fine rayon crepe in Black, 
Navy, Sandstone-beige, 
Canyon-rose, Willow- 
green, Blue-sky or Sutter's 
gold. Sizes 10 to 18. Style 

#20/.. .To 

Retail at 29.95 

introducing wonderful California sandstone colors! 

See page 53 for store nearest you. 



Now being featured at these and other fine stores: 

BULLOCK'S — Los Angeles GRACE CAMPBELL SHOPS — San Francisco 









£W rfl£ COVER: 

Ken Sutherland's sunshine 
suits, exquisitely tailored 
. . . cool and fresh as an 
ocean breeze! Shining 
pearl button accents, and 
the suit at right has either 
short or long sleeves. Sizes 
10-20, each is about $S0 
at J. J. Haggarty, Los An- 
geles. Hats are by Agnes. 
Ailuj gloves. Tom Binford 
color photograph. 












I Assistant publisher wniiom J. Bowen 

: ASHION DIRECTOR Sally Dickason 

: ASHION EDITOR Virginia Scallon 


rtEN'S FASHION EDITOR Malcolm Steinlauf 

t-ASHIONS Jacquelin Lory 
Edie Jones 
Margaret Paulson 

MATURES __ Helen Ignatius 

Hazel Allen Pulling 

I ART Morris Ovsey 
John Grandjean 
Anne Harris 
Jane Christiansen 



j : OOD STYLIST Helen Evans Brown 

California fashions 

Mid-Seasoning 16 

The Rustle Of Spring Is In Fabrics 18 

Summer Circles 20 

Circle For Fun Spots 22 

Long And Short Of It 24 

Going In Circles 26 

Endearing Cottons 28 

Round And Round You Go 30 

In The Social Whirl 32 

Sewing Circles 34 

Sweet, Soft, Sultry 36 

Pattern Of Spring Is In New Prints 38 

Coke-Set Charmers 40 

One Playsuit Makes A Dozen 43 

Dressing Room Gossip 44 

Think About Accessories 46 

California living 

Calla Lilies For Easter Decor 47 

A House Pattern For The World 48 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 50 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager, 
370 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExingrton 2-9+70; San Francisco Office, Leonard 
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472; Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & Associates, 
21 West Huron St., Chicago 10, 111.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West Grand 
Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $3.00 one year; $5.08 two 
years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United 
States. 35c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as second class 
matter January 25, 19+6, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under act of March, 
1879. Copyright 19+9 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Reproduction in whole 
or part forbidden unless specifically authorized. 

First bright flash of spring, and what better than shan- 
tung to interpret your new lighthearted mood? Such a 
versatile choice, it looks equally well with rich suedes 
and fine leather accessories now . . . with the wonderful 
fabrics, patents, and kids of summer shoe-and-bag ward- 
robes. Ken Sutherland foursome captures the mood. 
Above, in natural rayon shantung, classic suit, about 
$35: square-neck daytimer, about $35. 




For the world-ly traveller, the sophisticate at home . . . 
again it's the quality touch of shantung! Here Ken 
Sutherland uses Cohama's pure silk in the mid-seasonal 
print with easy side fullness, its scroll pattern in cop- 
per, sapphire, or emerald tones; about $50 . . . the 
versatile suit-dress in brilliant jewel tones, with triple 
tab interest; about $50. All four fashions are in sizes 
]0-20, at J. J. Haggarty, Los Angeles. 



The Rustle of Spring is in Fabrics, Too 

For high fashion moments, the whisper of silks and the soft shine of elegant fabrics! In a season when 
wonderful new materials abound, we find these interpretations outstanding: above, Don Loper's version of 
the increasingly important costume dress ... a Regency breakaway coat with separate skirt, in pure silk 
serge; iridescent black rose or black pearl. At White House. San Francisco; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. 
Opposite, Marusia's deft handling of a brand new fabric, silk taffeta shantung in glorious spring colors; 
decisively simple with epaulet sleeves and high jutting collar. Saks. Beverly Hills; Neiman-Marcus, Dallas. 


summer circles . . . frienc 
trips and widening horizons, ser 
beyond your own . . . clothes 
ripples of excitement that mean 
sewing circles, family circles anc 
memorate the wedding vows of 1 

then, like a pebble cast in qi 
wear that made the biggest splash when previewed in the 
sun . . . will set in motion fashion trends to influence summer 
wardrobes. Here we bring you golden nuggets from California 
collections for your circles in the sun. Cottons, sheer and 
frotfiM as a valentine: organdies and laces, voiles and fine 
batistes . . . cool rayons and linen. And for daily fare . . . 
batik, chambray, terry, and luminous materials. Skirts are 
slim and slightly shorter, or they fall in tier-and-tier of ever 
widening fullness. Shorts are brief, or longer ''walkers": 
pedal pusher pants below the knee. Summer casuals, soft and 
ladylike . . . blouses to enhance a summer suit, or ; 'go with" 
favorite skirts. Designer tricks to change a basic dress. These 
are the hints we bring you now of things you'll want in sum- 
mer's wardrobe. 






Here are old friends you'll want with you 

finest resorts (or to make fun of days in your ov 

back yard I . . . cottons in playful mood. Lejt, 

Louella Ballerino's flowered Ameritex cotton bloomer 

playsuit. sizes 10-16. about $15 at B. Altman. 

New York: Bullock's, Los Angeles. Right, F. B. Horgan's 

batik play set, sizes 12-20; coat about $8. shorts and halter 

about $6. Opposite page, left, the beloved wool 

cardigan sweater, this time dramatically faced with polka 

dots to match, by Barbara Barondess MacLean, at 

Joseph Home, Pittsburgh; Meier & Frank. Portland. 

Right, De De Johnson's newest printed terry cloth robe 

of a California Hand Print; sizes 10-18, about 






THE LONG and Short of it: 


We're famous for our active sportswear, and since the days of levi's 
we have had finest slacks (and then shorts) in the country. This year 
is a Bonanza . . . we've long tapered slacks, sharply tailored, with 
many plus-extras in fashion news; we've little-boy boxer shorts, 
cuffed and crisp, zippered or neatly placketed. But something new 
has come with the years, starting with clam diggers . . . now we call 'ej 
pedal pushers . . . and the long shorts, called Bermuda pants or 
British walkers. Something else has been added, too . . . and that's 
fabric variety. Today you can find California classic tailoring 
or novelty designs in fabrics from denims to sharkskins and batiks; 
from sharp white pique to checks, plaids, tweeds and cords. 
On these pages we start our long-and-short story with 
a series in Stonecutter Cord, by Royal of California, left; 
in tweedy cotton from Reliable Textiles, by Graff. 
Opposite page, a representative selection . . . choose your own! 



V \ 















Skirts are in tiers, and you will be, too . . . 

for the most-evident trend of recent months 

is skirts that fall in ever-widening ruffles, 

tier-on-tier and often even color-on-color. 

Above, Addie Master's scoop 

in Bates cotton print, tiers accented 

by ric-rac; sizes 10-18, about $35, 

at Bullock's. Pasadena. Stix Baer & Fuller. 

St. Louis. Right, Marjorie Montgomery's 

circle-tiered sundress with boned bodice; 

sizes 10-16. about $18 at Kaufmann's, Pittsburgh: 

J. L. Hudson, Detroit. 



A complete circle patio skirt in 

varying hues of cotton tiers from 

dan of California. Sizes 10-18. blouse 

irt about S18 at Bullock's. Los Angeles. 





You'll be a sun-shiner by day. romantic at night 

in cottons! Opposite page, left, stark white 

|>ii|ue sundress, pretty enough to wear dancing: 

Roval of California: sizes 10-20. about $20 

at J. ^ . Robinson. Los Angeles. Right, a 

Miss Hollywood. Jr. orisinal by Waldo, to be worn 

many ways . . . eyelet jacket and skirt with 

ilack taffeta bodice and skirt . . . wear strap- 

less black bodice and swirling skirt as your basic 

stume. then add eyelet jacket, then eyelet skirt! 

Sizes 9-15, about $35 for eyelet. $18 for taffeta. 

77ns page, iridescent chambray. another hit of 

the season, is mitred and tucked into a young charmer. 

by Linsk of California: sizes 9-15. about $15. 

These are clothes we like for themselves, and because 

they lend grace to so many occasions: with change 

of accessories they change their pace, too 

these cottons with two-fold charms. 


California classics with sunshine touches ... to wear 

all day and any day: left, young freshness in butcher linen 

frock by Clare, sizes 12-20. about $9 at The Emporium. 

San Francisco. Right, Lawson of California, satin 

striped cotton, sizes 10-18. about $17 at 

Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago; Buffums', Long Beach. 


»> a 

N x 



o oa | 



Stripes go 'round, too . . . above, Blair's dress of Textron 
cotton; sizes 10-16. under S25 at Bullock's, Los Angeles. 
Below, Marbert's town cotton, sizes 10-20, about $30. 
Right, Irene Bury's crepe shirtwaist dress, sizes 10-20 at 
J. W. Robinson, Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines. 


I N 


There's news in skirts this season . . skirts slim, staccato or miraculously 
full . . left, Agnes Barrett's dress in Bates poplin with peplum that may 
be used as cape; sizes 10] 6. about $23. Below, Pat Premo's Fluegelman 
frosted organdie dress with gentle skirt fullness; sizes 10-18, about $50. 


Western Fashions corded chambray blouse and skirt 
with vest and shorts (not shown), sizes 10-18, about $22 
for all four at J. J. Haggarty's, Los Angeles, above. 
Linen dress, right, with two-way belt (try a scarf 

instead of narrow belt) 
sizes 10-18, about $45 

by House of Meredith, 


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4 A 


Exquisite detail, an unusual and striking use of ac- 
cessories, a flair for color and fabric are the fashion 
coups which have established Edith Head of Para- 
mount Pictures as a brilliant designer. This collec- 
tion of sketches contains a parcel of tricks that lend 
sparkle to the wardrobes of such stars as Betty 
Hutton. Veronica Lake, Mona Freeman, Wanda Hen- 
drix. (1) romantic slipper satin evening gown, jetl 
beading across bosom, black velvet dust ruffle and 
gloves; (2) lovely Directoire evening gown in gros- 
grain. taffeta ruffle on skirt and jacket; (3) remov- 
able panels in different fabrics or colors, attached to 
a belt; (4) overskirt of ribbons; (5) pink slipper 


: - 
i ■ 



i ■ 


pannier over slim black jersey; (6) sable choker, 
lined with satin to form tube for ribbons; (7) Di- 
rectoire tiered evening coat, slipper satin or taffeta : 
(8) black velvet evening vest, jeweled embroidery: 
(8a) red flannel side-fastened vest, triple pockets: 
(8b) French butler vest; (9) red faille bib, em- 
broidered in gold and pearls; (10) jeweled pins on 
ivy leaf; (11) emblems, orders, or family crests on 
compact lids; (12) plaid wool house "greatcoat.'" 
jersey slacks; (13) cuff links on gloves; (14) and 

(15) terry cloth robe, towel ascot; tennis cardigan: 

(16) and (17) sleeveless reversible jacket and coat: 
(18) velveteen undershirt; reversible stole. 




eet or bold, with new and appealing 
klines, your spring blouse is so lovely 

will enhance the beauty of your suit 

you can wear it as a separate with 
skirts in your wardrobe. Opposite page, 

nure batiste yoke waist by Arlene of Hollywood ; 

e ruffled broadcloth by Na-Ma Blouse. 

is page, left to right, caballero 

rt with adjustable French cuffs: Palmdayl; 

in check chambray classic by Hendan ; 

lylike crepe with lattice insert, Deauville Models; 

A the plunging neckline favorite of Tailor Maid. 

Is In 
New Prints 

Rich beauty of prints to blend with the new sparkle that is spring . . . Alluring lines in a Max Kopp creation, above . . . 
front drapery forms two pockets . . . tiny buttons are subtle decorative details. Sizes 10-18. About $30. See page 52 for stores. 
Peggy Hunt creates a refreshingly simple dress, opposite left, to accent to the full a unique print of swirling scrolls. Sizes 
8-18. About $60. At Best's Apparel, Seattle; Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. Strikingly dramatic flower cascades on a 
graceful, exciting halter-neck dress that leaves shoulders bare to the sun, by Andree Gay, opposite right. May be worn 
with jacket or without. Sizes 8-18. Under $45. J. W. Robinson. Los Angeles; Peggy's Shop, San Francisco. 





Smooth . . . and right for you sub-teens. Jean Durain makes 

these in Everfast scalloped effect cotton. 

Opposite page, striking school and "coke-date" dress, about $13. This page left, sundress 

with gathered bodice, about $11. Choose a white pique jacket to change, 
about $6. Right, midriff top . . . again with gathered bodice and stark white shorts, about $10. All in 
sub-teen sizes 10 to 14 at J. W. Robinson. Los Angeles; Burdines, Miami: and Goldwater's, Phoenix. 


Skirts that hit just the right note for your summer merry-go-rounds: Preview Sportswear introduces 
two new style innovations in the exciting new Minx, by California Fabric Co., with soft luxurious richness 

and satin back finish. Double tuck treatment to mold a pretty hipline, or an ingenious back-wrap . . . 
in winter white or toast, sizes 22-30, about $9. For stores see page 53. Shown with Palmdayl dark blouse accents. 




Newest fashion fun for the teen-age crowd . . . this convertible playsuit 

in batik washable cotton print, by Miss Pat of California. 

It's a bloomer playsuit with attached wide sash which may be wrapped 

into halter or bra top bodice (or turned around for bare midriff effect!) 

You'll think of so many more ways to drape it . . . and with matching 

skirt it looks like a dress! Here's your boon companion for vacation days. 

to wear from sun-up till the dancing hours. Sizes 10-16. 

The set, about $9 at Halle Bros.. Cleveland. 

Right, Miss Pat bloomer playsuit, its wide sash wrapped 
bodice-like with the new bare-shoulder look; above, turned 
around, playsuit reveals bare midriffs; below, with skirt 
added, it looks like a dress. Add blouse if desired ! 




Gossip from the dressing 

room ranks these underfashions 

first. Opposite page left, 

sun or swim print bra and 

shorts; Renee of Hollywood. Right, 

nylon leno girdle, Su-z. Below, 

tulip construction bra; Anne Alt. 

This page above, Damsel of 

Hollywood satin and leno girdle. 

Below, maternity bra by 

Cordelia of Hollywood. 


i \ 

What do you think about accessories? Do 
you fully enjoy the challenge of select- 
ing handbags and shoes that not only are 
right in color, type and fabric for a par- 
ticular ensemble . . . but actually enhance 
its becomingness? Here's a chance to ex- 
press your own individuality, in shoes 
just a little bit different ... a conversa- 
tional new cut, or maybe a refreshing 
color accent. Above, Vic Colton gives you 
"Marimba," a cross-strap flattie for play- 
time; "Intermezzo," one-strap cutout for 
casual wardrobes; and "Ariosa" ankle- 
strap flat with double toe buckles. In 
suede or calf. Below, Ted Saval's day-to- 
night steppers: "Crosscountry" wedge with 
triple strap, in suede and calf; evening 
sandal with cutout ankle strap, wedge, in 
bronze-gold kid; a delicate shirred suede 
pump • And handbags can make you 
feel dashing and carefree if they're bold 
in design, with plenty of room for belong- 
ings. Like these by Frank Emmett: above, 
"Three Musketeers," three sizes in fine 
cowhide; "Sportster," a casual style in elk; 
"Cavalier," swashbuckling closing detail. 


Redwood, flagstone entranceway 

Here is the house J. R. Davidson built for the young Joseph Kingsleys in Pacific 
Palisades, Santa Monica. It embodies so many of his principles of streamlined 
living, we present it in a picture-story. Overlooking the blue Pacific, with an eight- 
foot partly open roof overhang to take care of the bright California sunshine (and 
cast interesting shadows on the flagstoned terrace below!) ... it serenely fulfills 
its purpose. 

From inviting redwood entranceway into the spacious living room with its 
entire wall of 12-foot glass panels which slide open across combined living- and 
dining-room areas to facilitate outdoor living . . . there is a feeling of carefree 
family living, easy hospitality. Dove blue walls of hall extend into living room, 
contrasting with pale yellow walls and ceiling of living and dining room, and a 
diffused glass screen separates these two units. Bedroom wing is oriented toward 
south and east, while a small den is across the hall from the living room . . . away 
from the spectacular view, occasional change for intimate evening hours. 

Fireplace corner; glass screen 

Built - in dressing table detail 

Indoor-outdoor dining optional 

Approaching the walls of glass 

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In California we make big whoopee at the Pasadena Rose 
Tournament, at the Santa Barbara Fiesta, and at the Lodi Wine 
Festival, but we don't do a thing about Mardi Gras, and I 
think we should. Not as a last fling before the Lenten fast 
begins, but rather as a celebration of the wonderful fish meals 
that lie ahead. Here we have hundreds of miles of coast line 
from which we harvest all manner of sea food, from the tiny 
pilchard (which changes its name to sardine when it takes up 
residence in a can ) to the gigantic black sea bass ; from the 
hundred-to-a-pint Olympia oyster to the huge five or six-pound 
geoduck (gooey-duck) clam. We have superb sea food restaur- 
ants from the Mexican to the Oregon borders, including the 
famed Fisherman's Wharves of San Francisco and Monterey, 
and we have cooks of every nationality who have brought their 
expert knowledge of cookery to add extra charm to California's 
renowned cuisine. No wonder we love fish! 

Abalone — that huge shellfish that is so jealously guarded in 
California that it may not be shipped from the state — has not 
always had such popularity. The earliest Californian cook 
books in my possession make no mention of them, and as late 
as 1914, Mr. Clarence Edwords, in his now much-sought-after 
book "Bohemian San Francisco" gives them a brush-off by 
saying that though they were in vogue among the Chinese and 
though one famous San Francisco restaurant made a specialty 
of them, "it takes sentiment to say that one finds anything 
extra good in them." Poor Mr. Edwords! I can't help but 
believe that that lover of good food had never had them 
properly cooked. 


Purchase the abalone steaks ready to cook, or — if you've 
acquired some as they come from the briny — pry them out of 
the shells, cut off all the dark meat, then cut out the white 
part into slices and pound — but gently — until they are very 
soft. Dry them and drop in slightly beaten egg and then in 
fine seasoned crumbs. Fry quickly in hot butter, not more than 
a minute or two on a side. Don't try to brown them well — if 
you do they'll be overcooked and tough. Serve simply, with 
lemon. That's abalone for you: easy to cook if you know how! 

Don't let anyone tell you that sculpin isn't good to eat. This 

rosy pink fish that grunts with annoyance when it is caught,; 
and which is well armed with formidable spines, has a delicate 
flesh and matchless flavor. The Japanese cook it to perfection,! 
as I discovered when it was served to us by the charming Mary 
Serisawa, wife of the prominent artist, Sueo Serisawa. This is 
her recipe: 


Have the fish split down the back enough so that it may be 
opened out flat, but don't allow the head to be removed unless 
you want to miss the best part. Mash a clove of garlic with a 
teaspoon of salt and rub it on the fish. Allow to stand about 
one-half hour, then put it, skin side down, on a well oiled pan 
and under a hot broiler. When the fish begins to brown, start 
basting it with the following sauce which is enough for two 
fish: mash two cakes of soy bean cheese (Fu-Yu) or — if that's 
too exotic for you — two tablespoons of Roquefort or bleu 
cheese. Add two tablespoons of soy sauce (now available any- 
where in the country), two tablespoons of sugar, and 3 table- 
spoons of whiskey, white wine, sake, sherry, or brandy. When 
the fish is quite brown sprinkle lavishly with sesame seeds and 
allow them to get very brown. Turn and repeat the same 
performance on the other side. Serve with thick slices of 
unpeeled orange. Mrs. Serisawa presented the oranges in an 
enormous white fluted shell — a lovely sight, surpassed only 
by the flavor of the fish. 

Scallops, though not commercially valuable on the Pacific 
Coast, are none the less found in our waters and in our markets. 
Like abalone, they cannot stand overcooking. 


Dip scallops in melted butter and string them on skewers, 
alternating with partially cooked squares of bacon and saute 
mushroom caps. Put under a very hot broiler and cook a couple 
of minutes on one side. Turn, do the other side, and serve at 
once with lemon, crisp shoestring potatoes, and broccoli with 
Hollandaise sauce or spinach. 

Albacore is the most highly valued of the tuna tribe because 
its meat is white — if that makes any more sense than does any 
other color differential. (Me, I like my meat dark, be it the 
second joint of a chicken, the all of a guinea hen, the neck 


of a turkey. I It's a game fish. too. and as deep sea fishermen 
abound on California waters, it's nice to know how to cook 
one. just in case . . . 


Stuff an albacore or. if it is too large, spread some stuffing 
between two "steaks." Use either a plain bread stuffing seasoned 
with your favorite herbs, or add chopped cucumbers, chestnuts, 
oysters, mushrooms, or bacon to it. Put it in a hot oven, and 
when it begins to brown baste it with a mixture of one part 
of white wine and one part of melted butter. Bake from thirty 
minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the fish. Serve 
with the juices in the pan. 

The Mexicans, who have given so much to California 
cookery, have an easy cold sauce that is delicious on any 
simply prepared white fish: 


Mix together two cups of chopped peeled tomatoes and one 
cup each of chopped green pepper and onion. Add a teaspoon 
of salt, some fresh black pepper, a quarter-cup of olive oil. 
and, if you wish, a dash of cayenne. Serve very cold on very 
hot fish. 

The Mexicans have a way of sousing or marinating fish that, 
because it is usually served cold, is particularly delightful on 
a hot summer's day. It may be done with any firm-fleshed fish, 
though sea bass seems a particularly happy choice. 

Drown two filets of fish in a little butter and arrange them 
carefully on a flat dish. Pour over a sauce made by combining 
a quarter-cup of oil. a tablespoon of vinegar, two tablespoons 


By Helen Evans Brown 

of orange juice, a teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a table- 
spoon of the zest of an orange (the very outside orange part 
of the skin) cut in slivers, a tablespoon of minced green onions, 
and two tablespoons of minced green peppers. Let stand six 
or eight hours, turning once or twice. Serve very cold, gar- 
nished with sliced oranges. 

Another way to do filet of sea bass, or any other filet for 
that matter, is: 


Put a filet of fish on a well buttered baking dish, sprinkle 
with salt and fresh ground pepper, and spread with a mixture 
of one-half cup of finely minced mushrooms and the same 
amount of minced green peppers. Pour over a cup of white 
wine (or half wine and half fish stock) and bake in a moderate 
oven, basting occasionally. (And I do hope you have one of 
those glass basters — the kind that looks like a giant eye 
dropper; they're invaluable.) When the fish is done, pour off 
the juices in the pan, reduce them by one half, add a half cube 
of butter and a tiny pinch of sweet basil. Melt, and pour over 
the fish before serving. 

Butter the insides of your baking shells and arrange two or 
three oysters on each, depending on the fit. Over the oysters 
spread a sauce made in this manner: mince very fine a bunch 
| of green onions using all but the tough part of the leaves. 
Add a quarter of a pound of butter, melted, two tablespoons 
of pureed spinach (the frozen kind will save lots of work!), 
a half-cup of cracker crumbs, a half-teaspoon of salt, some 
I pepper, and a half-teaspoon of powdered tarragon (or better 
I yet, that Spice Islands Tarragon Seasoning Powder that con- 
tains monosodium glutamate to accentuate the flavor). Mix 
well and spread thickly on the oysters, then bake in a hot 
oven until they are just hot and the tops brown. Serve pronto. 
Mardi Gras. which means Fat Tuesday, is the day before 
Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. The day is also 
known as Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Day, because good house- 
wives were supposed to round up all the fat in the house and 

fry pancackes like crazy until it was all used up. They had 
to eat them all that day. but we'd prefer saving some for fish 
blintzes or. better yet. starting from scratch. 


This batter is a thrifty one: mix one egg slightly, add a cup 
each of water and Hour, and a half-teaspoon of salt. Stir until 
smooth. Grease a small frying pan and when hot pour in about 
two tablespoons of the batter. Tip and turn the pan so that all 
the bottom is covered with a thin film. Cook slowly on one side 
and turn out on a clean cloth. Continue in the same manner 
until all the batter is used, then put a heaping tablespoon of 
filling on each cake, turn in the sides and fold over the top 
and bottom, so that you have a neat little envelope-shaped 
package. (The edges may be sealed with more batter.) Brown 
the blintzes in butter and serve with sour cream. Filling: Mix 
together one cup of farmer's style cottage cheese, a tablespoon 
of melted butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, one cup of any 
llaked cooked fish, a little fresh ground pepper, and two 
tablespoons of grated onion. If you want a sweet blintz, for 
dessert, fill with two cups cottage cheese, omit fresh pepper, 
fish, and onion, and add a whole egg and a teaspoon of sugar. 
Serve with sour cream and apricot or cherry preserves. Dreamy! 

What to serve with fish? Lemon, almost always, even if there 
is another sauce. Parsley potatoes are perfect, of course, but 
don't forget baked ones, served with sour cream and chives. 
Or hashed brown with chopped almonds, or even French 
fried or creamed (if they are creamed, and not gummed up 
with wall paper paste). As for the other vegetable — there's 
the favorite cucumber, but green beans, broccoli, asparagus, 
tomatoes, cooked in any manner or raw, pickled beets, spinach, 
cole slaw — any of these is good with fish — and fish is good! 

A fish sauce that is definitely of California goes well with 
shark, (sometimes called grayfish) a fish not to be despised. 


Combine one-quarter cup each of grated horseradish and 
chopped walnuts, a cup of sour cream, a tablespoon of lemon 
juice, and a half -teaspoon of salt. Serve cold. 

Pompano. that fish so loved by gourmets, is found in South- 
ern Californian waters, and cooked in the Creole manner. 


Allow a pound and a half of boned and skinned fish for 
six servings. Cut in pieces about three or four ounces each. 
Using parchment paper, aluminum foil, or just plain type- 
writer paper (8I/2 x 11, the right size), cut large, fat, heart- 
shaped pieces. Now make a sauce by cooking a quarter cup of 
chopped shallots or green onions in three tablespoons of butter 
for two minutes, then adding six chopped mushrooms and 
cooking another minute. Add four tablespoons of flour, stir, 
then pour in one-half cup each of white wine, cream, and fish 
stock (use those bones and that skin!). Add a tiny pinch of 
dried marjoram and salt and pepper as you like it. Cook 
slowly until smooth and thickened, then add the yolk of an 
egg, whisking it briskly. Cool this sauce. Brush the paper 
hearts with melted butter, arrange a piece of fish on one half 
of each heart, cover with a quarter cup of the sauce, and fold 
over the other half of the paper. Crimp the edges by making 
a double fold and pinching firmly. Bake at 450° for fifteen 
minutes, or until the paper is brown. Serve in the paper, allow- 
ing each lucky guest to open his own package and savor that 
first wonderful whiff of that imprisoned aroma. 

Sand dabs, a favorite Californian fish, are best when simply 
cooked. A la meuniere (in the style of the miller, probably 
because of the flour used) is perhaps best. 

Have sand dabs trimmed and dip them in flour. Brown on 
each side in butter and remove to a hot platter. Add more 
butter to the pan and when nut brown, squeeze in the juice of 
a lemon, then pour over the fish and sprinkle with chopped 

For your copy of CALIFORNIA COOKS by Helen Evans 
Brown, send $1.00 to THE CALIFORNIAN, 1020 So. Main St., 
Los Angeles 15. California. 



as You Grow Older 







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skin structure. 

(B) RESTORES natural, lovely skin. 

Visit the DermaCulture Studio nearest 

Alhambra 2021 Primrose Ave. 

Belmont Shore 203 Glendora Ave. 

Berkeley — 1762 Solano Ave. 

3173 College Ave. 

Fresno 3097 Tulare St. 

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Glendale..._ 1123 N. Brand Blvd. 

Long Beach 742 Pine Ave. 

Los Angeles 3156 Wilshire Blvd. 

900 S. Norton Ave. 

Modesto _ _ 322 Burney St. 

North Hollywood...- 12131 Riverside Dr. 

Oakland -...1 225 Broadway 

Pasadena 258 S. las Robles Ave. 

Pomona 200 E. Center St. 

San Francisco 150 Powell St. 

San Jose Suite 459, Porter Bldg. 

San Mateo 318 B. Street 

Santa Ana.— 405V2 N. Broadway 

Santa Monica 271 9-E Santa Monica Blvd. 

KEEPS FOODS HOT . . . Right on the Table 
Novel and Attractive as a gift or 
prize. It does not cook but keeps the 
last cup of coffee steaming as it 
pours. Useful with cereals, toast, 
vegetables, etc. Safe with metal, 
china or glass dishes. Saves many 
steps to the kitchen. 

Your cleverness in selecting a 
COFFEE-HOT" as a practical 
gift will be remembered daily at 
the breakfast table. 

Smartly styled in plastic case, red or white. 
Just 6 ' across. 6' cord & plug. $2.50 prepaid. 

194 Vassar Street, Rochester 7, N. Y. 



All kinds. Highest 
cash prices for jew- 
elry, rings, spectacles, gold teeth. 
diamonds, broken and usable 
watches, sterling, etc. Prompt re- 
mittances. Satisfaction guaranteed. 



LOWE'S Dept.a 

Holland Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 


Sensational new sharpener makes professional 
sharpening a simple, foolproof process. _ A 
knife sharpener for home use that will give 
professional results, without mechanical knowl- 
edge. Guide slots automatically hold the knife 
blade at the proper angle for correct sharp- 
ening by fine tru-balanced corundum i hone. 
All metal construction, with self -lubricating 
bronze bearing, sturdy polished and ground 
steel crank shaft, assures a lifetime of trouble- 
free service. Mounts easily for a permanent 
convenient installation. 

Sent $3.25 Postpaid 


Dept. A2 Victoria, Kansas 

add BARE-/)/ AN OUNCE 
for U\l\-est BEAUTY 


for your casual and 
formal wear. 

Yellow or 81 ue Sheer 


Block or White Sheer, 
wide loce trim and cute 


Send check with order. 
Sorry, no C.O.D.'s. We 
prepay by 1st class 
Mail. Include hip meas- 



BOX 23C 


Your spring print dress by Max Kopp, seen on page 31 
is available to you at the following stores: 

ARIZONA: People's Dept. Store, Saffor; E. F. Sanguinette, Inc., Yum 

ARKANSAS: Wall's Dept. Store, Jonesboro; The Fashion Shop, Ma 
vern; Eisenkramer's, Pine Bluff. 

CALIFORNIA: Faye's, Alhambra; Lenore Smith, Arroya Grande; Fasi 
ion Shop, Bell; Hezlett's, Berkeley; Domino Shop, Vilma's, Bever 
Hills: Parke Apparel, Buena Park; Irene's Dress Shop, Calexico; J 
Oser & Co., Chico; Benjamin Strauss, Rodder's Mademoiselle, Fresnc 
Gertrude Bowne, Fullerton; Alley Sportswear, Dudley's, Fashion Sho- 
Ruth Faye Shop, Glendale; Bon Allure, Grass Valley; Milady's Sty 
Shop, Hawthorne; Economy Dept. Store, Hayward; Muriel Frock Sho; 
Hermosa Beach; Ann's, Billie's, Hollywood; Leona's, Tate's, Huntingto 
Park; Ollie's Shop, Indio; Marbro's, Roberta's, Inglewood; Walker' 
Long Beach; Beek's Fashions, Brown's Clothiers, Louella Calvert, I 
Chic Shoppe, Leggett's, Town Shop Crenshaw, Los Angeles; Ambc 
Style Shop, Knobby Sportswear, Lynwood; The Toggery, Manhatta 
Beach; Modern Eve Shop, Martinez; Selb's, Merced; J. Loeb, Mi 
desto; Bamburg's, Napa; Rathbun's, Sawyer's, Tenners Dress Sho 
North Hollywood; DeVorin's, Marlowe's, Oakland; Bess Briggs, Bryant' 
Pian's, Palo Alto; Jessie P. Light, Pomona; C. M. Dicker, Redding 
Hana West, RedJands; Herman Markowitz,. Redondo Beach; Kneeland' 
Sacramento; Smart Shop, Salinas; Stept's, San Bernardino; Dixson 
San Carlos; Ballard & Brockett, Hafter's, Walker-Scott Corp., San Diego 
Diane's, Peggy Shop, Livingston Bros., San Francisco ; Lacterman' 
San Luis Obispo; Cleo's, San Marino; Towne's Smart Shop, Deans, Sa 
Pedro; Mattingly's, Frances Norton Shop, Santa Ana; Jack Rose, Sant 
Barbara; Diana's Dress Shop, Rose Gold, Ann Howe, Markowitz Bros 
Santa Monica; The Fashion, Santa Rosa; Eden Fashions, David Levii 
son, Smith & Lang, Stockton; Leona Blessinger, Temple City; Th 
Wonder Wear, Vallejo; Jack Rose, Ventura; Raisers, Victorville 
Wanda's Style Shop, Visalia; Tanya's, Walnut Creek; The Fashioi 
Watsonville; Margail's, West Los Angeles; Ballard & Brockett, Durand'i 
Whittier; The Fashion, Woodland. 


* '■ 



■I '' 






FLORIDA: Mary Schuh, Coral Gables; Bertha Cooke, Tallahasee. 

GEORGIA: Fashion Sportswear, Atlanta. 

IDAHO: Snider's, Buhl; Modern Deb Shoppe, Pocatello; The Foss Co 

INDIANA: H. P. Wasson Co., Indianapolis. 

KANSAS: Flo Frocks, Wichita. 

LOUISIANA: Ellzey's, Exclusive Shop, Baton Rouge: Mayer Israel Co 

Orleans Shop, New Orleans. 

MINNESOTA: David-Edwin's, St. Paul. 

MISSOURI: Cavin's, Springfield. 

NEW MEXICO: Thelma's, Clovis: W. W. Merritt Co., Rosewell. 

NEW YORK: Hanson's California Classics, Manhasset; Edna Besf 

Bloomingdale's, New York. 

OKLAHOMA: Lambert's, Enid; Smith Style Shop, Mangum; Holl> 

wood Dress Shop, Shattuck; Laughlin's Campus Shop, Stillwater. 

OREGON: McDevitt's, Albany; Excel Dress Shoppe, Ashland; Th 

Paris, Coos Bay; Miller Mercantile Co., Eugene; Excel Dress Shop 

Grants Pass: The Eastern, Portland; The Fashionette, Salem. 

PENNSYLVANIA: Katsman, Inc., McKeesport. 

TENNESSEE: Linden Circle Dress Shop, Memphis. 

TEXAS: Patten's Dress Shop, Alice; Kuykendall's, Amarillo: Pain 

Bros., Baytown; Jay's, Beaumont: Bollack's, Brownsville; Koehler Dr 

Goods, Cuero; Miss Hendley's Shop, Denton; Rozelle's, Edinbur 

W. C. Stripling Co., Fort Worth; lone Crow Shop, Harlingen; T 

Vogue. Lamesa; Economy Shop, Midland; Mize Bros., Nocogdoches 

Nash Tucker Shop, Odessa: Libby's, Rosenberg; Russell's Dept. Store 

Vernon : Hollywood Shop, Wink. 

UTAH: The Nadine, Ogden: Hudson Bay Fur Co., Salt Lake City. 

WASHINGTON: Browers^ Aberdeen ; C. C. Chaffee Co., Everett; Cap 

lan's, Vancouver; The Vogue, Walla Walla; The Fashion Shop 


WYOMING: Kassis Dept. Store, Caspar. 

MEXICO: Modes Palacci, Mexico Citv. 



I '*siuc pi'i*' 

(Made from plastic and rubber) 

• REJUVENATES FABRICS ranging from lamp shades and upholstered c 
to awnings and convertible Auto Tops 

• WATERPROOFS — Also retards fire, dry rot, mildew and repels m> 
Seals small holes 

• DRIES IN 30 MINUTES — May be washed 

• EASY TO APPLY — By brush or spray 

Available in 12 colors and black and white 

Price $2.59 per Ot. (1 Qt. covers 60 to 90 sq. feet] 

ALLEN PLASTICS CORP., 1015 E. 173rd St., New York 60, N. Y. 




CAIIFORNIAN, March, 1949 

■here to Buy Preview Sportswear Skirts: 

> "II find the skirts pictured on page 42 
't 'he following stores: 

/.ZONA: Nogales, Capins Mercantile 
iS-es; Phoenix, The Town Shop; Safford, 
A Jem Dress Shop; Tempe, Bright's Style 
[L; Tucson, Western Terrace. 
c'lFORNIA: Bakersfield, Eastern; El 
$nte, Miss and Matron Shop; Eureka, 
C y Bros.; Fort Bragg, Lillian's; Fuller- 
M Kingsbury; Glendale, H. S. Webb; 
r-iward, Bressman's; Hermosa Beach, 
tin's; Hollywood, Sporty Knit; Hunting- 
It Park, Lee's Dept. Store; Long Beach, 
glider Shop; Los Angeles, Swelldoms; 
t, irovia. Bain's; North Hollywood, Sporty 
K ; Oakland, Goldman's; Ocean Beach, 
V,a Moss; Pasadena, F. C. Nash; Pomona, 
■ for Jills; Redondo Beach, Herman's; 
jlrside, Kristy's; Sacramento, Hale Bros.; 
51 Bernardino, The Harris Co.; San Diego, 
B'ard and Brockett; San Fernando, 
my's Apparel; San Francisco, Hale Bros.; 
5| Jose, Hale Bros.; San Pedro, Fashions 
^Phillips,- Santa Ana, Mattingly's; Santa 
ife.para, M. Frederics; Santa Paula, Frum- 
4Js Smart Shop; Whittier, Tibbetts. 
CiORADO: Boulder, La Salles,- Denver, 
Jdn Dry Goods. 
llRIDA: Miami, Kotton King. 
HHO: Burley, The Style Shop; Idaho 
[tie, Leo Levine; Pocatello, Modern Deb; 
(R.purg, Liberty Dept. Store. 

ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Com- 
pany; Rockford, The Smart way. 
KANSAS: Wichita, George Innes Company. 
MICHIGAN: Detroit, The Rollins Company. 
MISSOURI: St. Louis, Stix, Baer and Fuller. 
NEBRASKA: Norfolk, SilMks Ready to 
Wear; North Platte, Rosana Shop; ScoMs- 
bluff , Bea and Buryle. 
NEVADA: Las Vegas, Bain's. 
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Mosier's. 
NEW YORK: Rockville Center, Terrace 

OHIO: Cleveland, The Higbee Company; 
Dayton, Elder Johnson. 

OREGON: Astoria, Leon's; Eugene, Leon's,- 
Klamath Falls, Leon's; Midford, Leon's; 
Portland, Bedell; Solem, Leon's. 
PENNSYLVANIA: Pittsburgh, Frank & Seder; 
Union town, Wright-Metzler. 
TENNESSEE: Nashville, Castor-Knott. 
TEXAS: Dallas, The Style Shop; Ft. Worth, 
R. E. Cox Dry Goods Co.; Houston, Foley's; 
San Antonio, The Vogue; Sulphur Springs, 
Wood's Shop; Tyler, K. Wolens Dept. 

UTAH: Ogden, Belle Monde; Provo, Tay- 
lor's; Salt Lake City, Salt Lake Knit. 
WASHINGTON, D. C: Washington, L. 

WASHINGTON: Auburn, Hattie Casper; 
Richland, Hurt's; Seattle, MacDougall- 
Southwick Co.; Tacoma, Peoples Store. 
WISCONSIN: Racine, Koenig's. 

l\e Preview Sportswear skirt pietured on page 7 is available 
at the following stores: 

A 'ONA: Douglas, Gloria Foster; No- 
(gtls, Capins Mercantile Stores; Safford, 
roles Dept. Store. 

CIFORNIA: Buena Park, Marion and 
»Tc|; Compton, Junior Deb; Eureka, Daly 
Bi|.; Fresno, L. L. Lewis; Glendale, Col- 
lepte Shop; Hayward, Bressman's; Hunt- 
fnpn Park, Campus Togs; Inglewood, 
Ri Apparel; Long Beach, Columbia; Los 
A(eles, Swelldoms; Monrovia, Bain's; 
M|terey, Collegiate Shop; Oakland, Hale 
Br .; Ocean Beach, Veda Moss; Oxnard, 
fcj-lotte Shop; Palo Alto, Walster's; Pasa- 
drb, F. C. Nash; Pomona, Junior Jills; 
,Rt;and's, Blume's; Redondo Beach, Her- 
m 's; Riverside, Kristy's; San Bernardino, 
Bnt's; San Diego, Lion Dry Goods; San 
Frlcisco, Knitcraft; San Pedro, Lilyans; 
Sc a Ana, Mattingly's; Santa Barbara, 
|Wfrederics; Whittier, Tibbetts. 
OORADO: Boulder, La Salles; Denver, 
Jen Dry Goods; Greely, Musick's Frock 

IlklDA: Miami, Kotton King. 
IDHO: Burley, Style Shop; Rexburg, Lib- 
er) Dept. Store. 


ILLINOIS: Chicago, Marshall Field & Com- 
pany; Rockford, The Smartway. 
KANSAS: Wichita, George Innes Company. 
MICHIGAN: Detroit, J. L. Hudson; Grand 
Rapids, Leonora Fashions,- Kalamazoo, 

MISSOURI: Kansas City, The Jones Store; 
St. Louis, Stix, Baer and Fuller. 
NEW MEXICO: Albuquerque, Mosier's; 
Hobbs, Neithercutt; Raton, Kilmurray; San- 
ta Fe, Irma's. 

NEVADA: Ely, Lucille's Dress Shop; Las 
Vegas, Bain's. 

OHIO: Dayton, Elder Johnson. 
OREGON: Oregon City, Simon's Ready to 

PENNSYLVANIA: Johnstown, Penn Traffic 
Company; Uniontown, Wright-Metzler. 
TEXAS: Houston, Foley's. 
UTAH: Ogden, Belle Monde; Provo, Tay- 
lor's; Richfield, Rosana Shop,- Salt Lake 
City, Wolfe's. 

WASHINGTON: Seattle, MacDougall-South- 
wick Co. 
WISCONSIN: Racine, Koenig's. 

Vhere to Buy Your Junior Miss Dress: 

Thjlovely rayon shantung dress on page 
12may be purchased at the following 


AliAMA: Cullman, George Stiefelmeyer. 
Al ONA: Phoenix, Goldring. 
CAFORN1A: Bakersfield, Bess Blair; Bev- 
erij Hills, Nobby Knit Shops; Fresno, 
Br\ner's; Hemet, DeMarr's; Huntington 
Pai, Co-ed's Smart Shop; Inglewood, Co- 
Edj Smart Shop; Laguna Beach, Cornelia 
Siilow; La Jolla, lller's; Long Beach, 
Pay's; Los Angeles, Mesa Dept. Store; 
Otjrio, Bunny's; Pomona, Ora Addies; 
Re:ndo Beach, Mademoiselle Shops; Sac- 
'ai'nto, La Verne Shop; San Diego, Ja- 
:obn's; Sanger, Florence Hemphill; Santa 
^n' Campus Togs, White's; Santa Mon- 
ies Bentley's, The Jerry Brills, Dosel's; 
>tc ton. Campus Lane, The Sterling; West- 
:hi|er. Mademoiselle Shops. 
-C-NECTICUT: New Britain, Californian. 
: l<i|DA: Warrington, Navy Point Stores; 
Col Gables, Lulu Mae Shop. 
'UJOIS: Clinton, Dorothy's Style Shop. 


KENTUCKY: Bowling Green, Martin's; Lex- 
ington, Martin's. 

MISSOURI: St. Louis, Scruggs-Vandervoort, 

OHIO: Mansfield, R. B. Maxwell; Marietta, 
Hanes Shop; Marion, Uhler-Phi Mips. 
OREGON: Grants Pass, Excel Dress Shoppe. 
PENNSYLVANIA: Morristown, Feder's; 
West Chester, Joel Weiss. 
SOUTH CAROLINA: Columbia, Martin's; 
Bennettsville, Kiddie-Teen Shop. 
TENNESSEE: Knoxville, Miller's. 
TEXAS: Harlington, Diana Shop. 
WASHINGTON: Seattle, Bon Marche. 
WYOMING: Worland, The Smart Shop. 

Louise Salinger 
Schools of Dress Designing 

Pattern Designing, Pattern Drafting. 
Millinery. Tailoring, Sketching. 
Modeling. Day and Evvung Classes 
Catalogue B. 

Maiden La. & 

wood & Oliver 

Kearny St. 


San Francisco. 




Do. 28059 

Atlantic 385J 

Stores Offering 
Max Kopp Dresses 

The lovely Empire silhouette dresses by 
Max Kopp as shown on page 13 are 
available at the following stores: 

Suzanne Shop; Bishop, Specialty Shop; 
Buena Park, Parke Apparel; Chico, M. 
Oser & Co.; Huntington Park, Leon's; Los 
Angeles, Broadway Dept. Store, May Co.; 
Lynwood, Amber Style Shop; Oakland, 
Marlowe's; Oroville, Donna's; Pasadena, 
Pian's, Bess Brigg's; San Francisco, Peggy 
Shop, Diane's; Santa Rosa, The Fashion- 
Stockton, Eden Fashions; Victorville, 

BATON ROUGE, LA., Exclusive Shop; 
GON, Miller Mercantile Co.; EUNICE, LA., 
La Vogue; GALVESTON, TEXAS, Benoit's; 
GUYMAN, OKLA., Ethel's Shop; HOUSTON, 
TEXAS, Boyer & Whisennand, Martha's 
Ladies' Shop; LIBERAL, KANSAS, Shoppe 
Elite; NOGALES, ARIZ., Bracker's; ST. 
PAUL, MINN., Husch Brothers; SALT LAKE 
TEXAS, Sol's Dress Shop; WICHITA, KAN- 
SAS, Hinkel's. 


You can play up your good points, play 
down your figure faults, accent your posi- 
tive, appear constantly as a well-dressed 
woman if you follow the simple rules in 
Dressing by Design, a collection of 10 im- 
portant fashion articles from The Califor- 
nian Magazine. Write today for your 
copy . . . only 50c postpaid. 


1 020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, California 






RARE TASTE THRILL right down to 
the last delicious morsel . . COLONY 
Ham, 1-year cured in Smithfield, t Vir- 
ginia, from peanut-fed razorback pigs, is 
prepared, ready-to-serve, by 3 300-year-old 
recipe . . baked with sugar and spices, 
hasted liberally with Sauterne wine, beau- 
tiful lv garnished and browned to a 
Queen's taste. Sizes 8 to 12 lbs., $1-95 
per lb. (Add postage $1.00 per ham 
West of Miss.) We come close to size 
ordered, refunding or billing for slight 
difference. If vou'd rather cook your own, 
we'll ship a 12-14 lb. year-old whole un- 
cooked ham, with our recipe, for just 
$16.75, plus $1.00 to help pay postage. 
Check or Money Order NOW. 



Which Movie Star Are You Like? 
Regardless of where or who you are, vou 
do look like a Movie Star. Let Thelma 
Ray "'FIND YOUR STAR," and learn 
how that Star can be your style and 
beauty guide. 

Be as Glamorous as Your Star 
Thelma Ray is one of Hollywood's leading 
authorities on fashions and Movie Stars. 
Let her help you. She gives personal 
attention to every letter. 
To "FIND YOUR STAR,;' send your 
picture, age, occupation, height, weight, 
color of eyes and hair, and $1.00 to 
cover cost of research to: 



Box +13 Hollywood 28, Calif. 



I 7& 


and French! 




Your Host 

1 Since 192(1 

8240 Sunset Strip, Hollywood HI. 6401 



in Cocoashan — A CAVALCADE FABRIC 

High charm from California! One piece dress in 
ice-cream cool woven striped Shantung ... its 
crisply casual lines are typical of the best 
in the West! Deep-toned stripes contrast a 
white background. This dress features a 
convertible neckline, round shoulders 
and peg pocket detail. White background 
with black, brown, navy and green 
stripes. Sizes 10-20, under {pXJ.UO 

^ ShSrle 


Boston, Mass. Indianapolis, Ind. 

Charleston, W. Va. Sacramento, Calif. 

Chattanooga, Tenn. San Francisco, Calif. 

Washington, D. C. 


For further infc 

t r m a t i 

on write JANE 


945 S. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 



Fashion's newest . . . these gay shirts that may be 
worn five different ways . . . yours, in five stunning 
fabrics . . . and at less than $4 . . . 

Represented by DAVE WIEDHOPF, 6439 Sawyer St., Los Angeles 

Cotton — California Mood 

The free-hand designing peculiar to California is something 
Dan River well understands. Our stylists are constantly working 
hand in hand ivith coast creators to produce 

fabrics best adapted to California needs. 
As a result, more and more Coast designers 
depend upon Dan River for fabric inspiration. More and 
more stores look to the Dan River label for 
coast-wise fashions at their best. 

Dan River Mills, Inc., Danville, Va. 

New York Sales Office: 40 Worth Street, New York 13, N. Y. 








<£> *> *v 


Because you love the new plunging 
neckline and its companion 
stand-up collar 

Because white spiced with color 
does things for you 

Because the cool look is 
your look for summer 

Marion McCoy 

has designed this dress of 
wonderful, washable rayon 
Salyna with you in mind. White 
with naoy, white with brown, 
white with green. 
Sizes 9 to 15. 


Order by Mail fro 
College and Career She 




» . -. 

' TO 

Li V 




>* ^ 

Buy the Sun-dress at : 

Burdine's, Miami, Fla. 

Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Harzfeld's, Kansas City, Mo. 

Rhodes Dept. Store, Seattle, Wash. 

and other fine stores 

or write Cole of California 

2615 Fruitland Road, 

Los Angeles 11 

Fabric Tells the Fashion Story . . , 

Keyed to a Sun-dance! Whimsical cactus 
on a Fluegelman Jeri Print, sun-dressed, 
Matletex*-hugged by Cole of California. 
Pink, green or tan. Small, Medium, Large. 
Under $11. 

*Co/c of California's patented process oj shirring with lastex thread. 

N . rluegelman & CO., inc. 

1412 Broadway, New York 18, New York 



No. 3 

THE CALIFORNIAN is published monthly by The Californian, Inc., at 1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif., printed in U. S. A. Yearly sub- 
scription price $3.00. Entered as second class matter January 23, 1946, at the Post Office, Loi Angeles, Calif., under the act of March 3, 1879. 






naturally i t's 

In silk Shantung. To retail at about $40. 


You can cease resisting linen 
when its trulv crease-resistant 


, Outfit 






A.11 the things you love about linen ... and none ol the things you don t . . . in a California sheath and 
jib jachet that will see you smoothly through your most ruffling day. An exclusive sea-f>rint in sea-colors 
. . . marine blue-black-white, coral-navy-white. kelf> brown- blach -white . . .jacketed in the darkest shade. 

Sizes lO to 16. 3Q^^ 

Casual Clothes, Fourth Floor 



Atlantic City, N. J. 


Champagne, Illinois 


Chico, Calif. 

M. OSER & CO. 

Columbus, Miss. 


Des Moines, Iowa 


Mt. Shasta, Calif. 


Pasadena, Calif. 


Stockton, Calif. 


Wichita Falls, Tex. 



MEENA Of Cslifomia makes this three-piece lounge-lovely coat and pajama set in Cohama 
polka dot rayon crepe. Boon companion on your vacation, fun to wear in the dorm or at 
home. Three-quarter coat and trousers in navy or red with white dots; topper in white with match- 
ing red or navy dots. Sizes 12-20. 

Note these extra qualities: 

Full generous cut of trousers 
Added length to robe 
Push-up sleeves 




945 So. Los Angeles St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 


buttons . . . and bows (not bows) 

Yes, Bows to Deauville Models for this superbly 
detailed tissue faille crepe blouse in every 
conceivable color. Only $10.95. Available at 
Nancy's, Hollywood; Buffums', Long Beach; 
Bullock's, Los Angeles; Myer Siegel, Los Angeles; 
Meier & Frank, Portland, Oregon, and other 
fine stores throughout America. 



California's Finest and^Most 
Imitated Blouses 

407 East Pico Boulevard 
Los Angeles 15 

THE CAUFORNIAN, April, 1949 


Second Edition of 

California Cooks 

By Helen Evans Brown 

A prize collection of Helen Evans Brown's 
brilliant articles on cookery appearing ex- 
clusively in 



■-- »tn 




The first edition sold out completely. 


A distinguished cuisine influenced by the 
Missions, by Chinatown, by Hollywood, by 
California vineyards and citrus groves, by 
the desert, by the Spanish fiesta days, by 
patio living and barbecues, by picnicking in 
California, by the seashore and by the lav- 
ish days of old San Francisco. 

Kumquat Marmalade . , Napa Kidney Saute 
. . Spaghetti Ventura . . Patio Salad . . 
Barracuda San Pedro . . Carmel Cabbage . . 
California Almond Sauce . . Fresno Fritters 
. . Ojai Orange Sauce for Duckl 

It's a kitchen literary classic in Helen Evans 
Brown's sprightly, friendly style. GOOD READ- 




1020 S. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Calif. 

Please mail my copies of CALIFORNIA COOKS 



(City, State and Zone) 
Enclosed is payment for Q copies at $1 each. 


4 ' 

1 _ I ; 

SOLID BEAUTY ... in limited series re- 
productions of original sculpture by Harold 
Frederick Wilson. These cast stone bookends 
materialize Mr. Wilson's dream — great works 
of art everyone can own. The Mayan head, 
copy of an original fragment, depicts the 
high type teacher-astronomer typical at the 
peak of Mayan culture. The Aztec fragment 
is the stoic face of a savage priest, framed 
in the symbolical jaguar's head, truly de- 
picting the fanatical leader. This magnificent 
pair, only S15 postpaid. The Margorita Shop, 
1018 South Main Street, Los Angeles 15, 

FLOWER FROG . . . we've a flower-phobia 
about bouquets falling to one side of the 
vase or sprawling every which way. So the 
Kubari Frog is most welcome! Dividing the 
vase into five sections, it consists of two rust- 
proof rubber-tipped pieces, a Y and bar. 
Both units are adjustable for diameters from 
3" to 5", to be placed at any desired point. 
Bisects any vase, round or square, metal or 
glass. The Kubari Frog, yours for lovelier 
flower groupings, just $1 postpaid; no 
C.O.D.'s. Aarco Co., 520 West Seventh St., 
Los Angeles 14, Calif. 

TORTILLA FLATS . . . these go-everywhere 
sandals are comfy as can be . . . perfectly 
appropriate for most any springtime and 
summer occasion. Extra good fit is assured 
with adjustable straps that smartly buckle 
for added fashion interest. In cloud-white, 
lipstick-red, or hunter-green, in the softest 
elkskin. This easy-to-clean footgear is a wise 
choice, indeed. Nicely priced at 85.95. Please 
add 15c postage, and 2 l / 2 % sales tax if in 
California. Sizes 3-9, N or M. Send your 
order to Gawthrop's Shop, Box 372, Balboa 
Island, Calif. 

topping for your outdoor faucet that will 
do justice to your pretty garden ... to saw 
nothing of being a clever gift for a garden- 
ing friend. The Dove (shown) is just one 
of a wide range of models, including Dog, 
Rooster, Horse or Swan. Each of solid brass, 
highly polished, and interchangeable with I 
regular hose connection. $7.50 each. (Ship- 
ping charges on C.O.D.'s are collect ) . Ham- 
macher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street, New 
York 22, New York. 

FLOWERS 'N BOWS ... is the provocative 
name of this enchanting cigarette set. The 
large box, big enough for two king-size packs, 
may be used as candy or jewel box (2%" 
x5"x3%"). It's cleverly designed, with over- 
lapping top for smooth fit. The two match- 
ing ashtrays are bow-trimmed. A wonderful 
gift for Easter or Mother's Day, in your 
choice of yellow, black, green, white, red 
or turquoise. Set of three, just $5.00 post- 
paid (no C.O.D.'s, please) from The Mar- 
gorita Shop, 1018 South Main Street, Los 
Angeles 15, Calif. 



by Tony Hill are these ingenious two. Over- 
size cigarette box, 6" long and 4" wide, in 
rough-textured ceramics features a free-form 
design on the cover . . . plenty of space in- 
side for candies, if you like. Stone grey, just 
$3.75. The large planter, an amusing "king- 
size" beer mug, may be used for cigarettes, 
candies, or plants. Green or coral with white, 
or yellow with brown, 84.50 Add 50c for 
postage, and send your orders to Tony Hill, 
3121 West Jefferson, Los Angeles 16, Calif. 

SUNBURST CLOCKS . . . beautiful ankle 
accents on exquisite sheer hosiery by Willys 
of Hollywood. DuPoint nylon, featuring hand- 
appliqued "Sunburst" velour clocks. For 
streetwear, cocktails and evening. Seamed or 
seamfree, regulation toe or sandalfoot. Won- 
drous '49ers colors: pay dirt; gold dust; 
mica brown; rose quartz; red earth; shovel 
tan. Sizes 8 to 11, $3.75 the pair. Stix, Baer 
& Fuller, St. Louis; Marshall Field, Chicago; 
Saks 5th Avenue, New York; May Co. Wil- 
I shire, Los Angeles. Or write Willys of Holy- 
wood, 1141 N. Highland, Hollywood 38, Calif. 


just 3" high are these cunning salt and pep- 
pers. With chrome-plated base and unbreak- 
able plastic tops created to withstand rough 
treatment and all kinds of weather, you'll 
find this set useful indoors and out. An 
adaptation of the old-fashioned hurricane 
lamp, the shape blends with any dinnerware 
patterns. Just $1.00 per pair postpaid. Add 
3c in Calif. Fred L. Seymour Company, Box 
1176, Beverly Hills, Calif. 

SU-Z SMOOTHY GIRDLE . . . smoothest 
fitting, most comfy, all-stretch girdle yet. All 
Imylon power-net, sewed with nylon thread and 
llfinished with nylon elastic garters. Smooth, 
licool comfort — no riding or slipping — no re- 
llvealing seamlines even under your slickest 
([dresses. Custom-made to your measurements. 
([Available in step-in (shown, no legs) or 
Jjpantie (with legs). White, nude or black. 
Ipent postpaid insured (no C.O.D.'s) for only 
Ipl0.95. Send measurements of your waist, 
lltummy, hips, thigh, weight and height to 
||Su-Z, 2920 West Vernon Ave., Los Angeles 
Ife, Calif. 

llable ceramic containers, these miniature 'bar- 
Itows and push-carts, that you'll want for 
Ifmost everything. A charming way to brighten 
l&our corner or table, and wonderful for cen- 
Iferpiece arrangements. About 4" high, each 
■has a removable frog for holding flowers, or 
lyou may choose to use them for plants, 
I cigarettes, candy. A perfectly precious pair, 
[[in chartreuse, yellow or maroon. Wheelbarrow 
ft>r cart, $2.25 each, or $4.00 the pair post- 
ipaid. Irving Hamilton, 527 West Seventh 
| Street, Los Angeles 14, Calif. 


OLOGNES with the traditional 
English bouquet, created exquisitely 
by Atkinsons of Bond Street, 
can now be bought at the finer shops. 










from the 

floor — a beautiful 
cocktail table 
with top highly 
finished with 6 
coats of laquer. 

UP: It's a handsome game-table 28/2" high. 
In larger sizes it's a graceful dining table! 
Sit on it — it won't wobblel Hardware concealed 
in legs. 

In ASH or BIRCH— 5 colors. 
Top sizes: 33" square; 33"x48"; 33"x60" 







'HE CALIFORN1AN, April, 1949 


uifts in the 
Xjalifornia manner 

GAY "90 JIGGER: Amusing bar accessory, this cor- 
seted torso in ceramic. The bust holds a 1-oz. jigger, 
the base a double jigger. Attractively gift-boxed. $1.00 

FOR THE TINY COWBOY: Any tot can become a champ 
with this trick spinning rope. Comes with complete di- 
rections. $1.00, postpaid. Child's spurs in white and 
gold metal. Fits over any boot or shoe. $2.95, postpaid. 

MEASURING SPOONS: Here's a colorful, decorative 
touch fcr your kitchen . . . and useful, too. Four plas- 
tic measuring spoons, that fit in a floral arrangement 
with this bright ceramic flowerpot. Gadgets like this 
make housekeeping twice the fun. $1.50 postpaid. 

No C.O.O. — please. Send checfc or money order, f Resi- 
dents of California, please add 2 J /2% sales tax.) 

Send for illustrated catalog 
of other delightful California 
gift items. 



— w»W$ 


MALAY BLOSSOM . . . Weil of Cali- 
fornia's wonderful new design, wonderful 
new shape. You'll dine with delight on this 
beautiful dinnerware. Hand-painted under 
glaze, with chartreuse blossoms on gray, or 
white on celadon (delicate green). Sixteen 
piece starter set, nicely priced at $19.95. 
Malay Blossom Tea Set, including tea or 
sandwich plate and cup, just $2.75. Sixteen 
piece Malay Bamboo pattern, not shown, 
$17.50. You can add from open stock in 
leading stores and shops, or write direct to 
Weil of California, 3160 San Fernando Road, 
Los Angeles 41, Calif. 

mystery bubble pipe produces smaller bubbles 
inside the giant ones! Grownups and kiddies 
will be entranced . . . for the whole family, 
for your next party. 8" metal pipe with dur- 
able hardwood head, has outlets for different 
sized bubbles. Bubble powder is included, and 
any soap works. Just $1 per kit, including 
two pipes, bubble solution, instructions; $5 
for six. (No C.O.D.'s, please). Satisfaction 
guaranteed by Seltru Products Inc., Dept. CI, 
12 Bedford St., Stamford, Conn. 


and women, these wonderfully wearable rope- 
soled classics that Espadrille wearers have 
loved for years. So comfortable you'll forget 
you have them on ! Durable uppers in cos- 
tume colors: white, red, brown, green, blue 
or black. Send your shoe size and stockinged 
footprint. Just $2.60 postpaid. Sorry, no 
C.O.D.'s. Orders are promptly filled by Fred 
Leighton Inc., Dept. C, 15 East Eighth 
Street, New York 3, New York, or 1514 Wis- 
consin Avenue Northwest, Washington, D. C. 


easiest, quickest, most efficient means of cor- 
recting double chins, flabby jaw muscles, 
crepy throat. Made of sponge rubber. Tiny 
vacuum cups increase circulation by stimula- 
tion ... no need for tight ties which im- 
pede circulation. Not a chin strap, but a con- 
tour mold acting as a soft tissue cast. Wear 
whenever possible, especially at night. No 
softening creams or oils necessary. May also 
be worn on front or back of neck and for 
forehead lines. $2.50 plus 8c tax in Los An- 
geles, 7c in Calif. From DermaCulture, 1318 
Fourth Avenue, Los Angeles 6, Calif. 

HERE AT LAST ... the long-awaited ant 
killer, Ant Dust! It provides permanent, com- 
plete control of all ant species — and many 
other household pests — within 24 hours, in 
homes, walks, lawns, gardens. Not dependent 
on feeding habits, it kills by contact, inges- 
tion, vapors. (Contains the powerful new 
toxicant Chlordane). Nonpoisonous, safe to 
use everywhere. Request Ant Dust in seed, 
drug, hardware stores everywhere, or write 
direct. 1-lb. duster type can, $1.00 postpaid. 
Bonide Chemical Co., Utica 4, New York 
(Makers of Highest Quality Insecticides Since 


See the famous control lift brassieres by 
Cordelia of Hollywood at your favorite store and 

BULLOCK'S — Los Angeles, April 18th to 23rd 

when the Cordelia stylist will be present for consultation 

and personal discussion of your brassiere problems. 






V\ 3^ 1 

<,* <^ I 

^k^l ' "4t ^^' is 

i^m. jfjifii&t' Jff^^ ^^H ^^^H 


Barre, Vermont 


Bessemer, Alabama 


Gallup, New Mexico 


Great Falls, Montana 


Huntington, W. Virginia 


Maysville, Kentucky 


Mount Shasta, Calif. 


Ogden, Utah 


Phoenix, Arizona 


Pocatello, Idaho 


San Francisco, Calif. 


San Jose, Calif. 


Stockton, Calif. 





Graff'S delightful classic blouse in an exciting new paintbrush print highlighting red, copen, gold, 
navy, brown on white ... a Fuller Fabric. Wear it with your tailored suits, skirts or even slacks 

and playclothes whatever their color! 

Sizes 32-40. An outstanding style 


— at an outstanding price! 

Note these extra qualities • — ■ 

Clever matching of pattern 
Smooth fitting sleeves 
Convertible neckline 








Cardigan suit of great 
fashion significance . . . 
designed by Yablokof) of 
Kay Saks in Hajner faille 
. . . button tab at yoke, 
pencil slim skirt; sizes 
10-18, it's under $60 at 
City of Paris, San Fran- 
cisco; Young-Quinlan, 
Minneapolis; Woodward 
& Lothrop, Washington, 
D. C. Tom Binford photo. 














.William J. Bowen 

..Sally Dickason 

.Virginia Scallon 

..Alice Carey 

-Malcolm Steinlauf 

.Jacquelin Lary 
Barbara Bailey 
Margaret Paulson 

..Helen Ignatius 
Hazel Allen Pulling 

..Morris Ovsey 
Anne Harris 
John Grandjean 
Jane Christiansen 

.Frank Stiffler 

.Hazel Stall 

..Helen Evans Brown 

California fashions , 

Here Comes The Bride 14 

Pretty As A Picture 16 

A Private Affiair 18 

She'll Be Married In A Suit 20 

Sentimental Season 22 

Suits With A Romantic Air 23 

Here We Go On Our Honeymoon 24 

Bride's Wardrobe Stretchers 26 

This Is Adrian 28 

Shape of Summer 49 

California living 

On The Side Of A Hill 30 

Your Future In Furniture 32 

Patio Ideas 36 

Barbecues - - 38 

Furniture In A Package 40 

News In Side Chairs 41 

California Accessories 42 

California Cooks, by Helen Evans Brown 46 

Flower Arrangements 48 

THE CAL1FORNIAN is published monthly at 1020 So. Main St., Los Angeles 15, Cali- 
fornia, PRospect 6651. New York Office, Charles Thorp, eastern advertising manager. 
570 Lexington Ave., New York 17, LExing_ton 2-9470; San Francisco Office, Leonard 
Joseph, 26 O'Farrell St., DOuglas 2-1472: Chicago Office, Burton H. Johnson & Associates, 
21 West Huron St.. Chicago 10. III.; Detroit Office, Frank Holstein, 2970 West Grand 
Blvd., Detroit 2, Mich., MAdison 7026-7. Subscription price: $5.00 one year; S5.00 two 
years; $7.50 three years. One dollar additional postage per year outside continental United 
States. 55c per copy. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Entered as second class 
matter January 25, 1946, at the Post Office at Los Angeles, California, under act of March, 
1879. Copyright 1949 The Californian, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Reproduction in whole 
or part forbidden unless specifically authored. 


To a new way of life ... to new responsibilities and new happiness. 

With an awakened regard for the real meaning of gracious living, the 

bride opens the door to another world where everything is electric 

with excitement and even everyday things have a fresh new 

beauty and enchantment. And because the bride looks at 

the total round of life with anticipation and a highflying eagerness, 

we present on the following pages some of the newest ideas from 

California. For the bride . . . exquisite dresses, suits and accessories 

with a going-away air, delicately feminine lingerie, striking 

sportswear coordinates and playclothes. And for the home . . . indoor 

and outdoor furniture, barbecues, tableware, lamps, 

designed with originality and distinction for the California way 

of life . . . a tradition now, to be cherished with the coming years. 

Ethereal loveliness of nylon tulle with romantic shadowings of hand Alencon lace on waist, train, foaming skirt. Cahill Ltd. Sizes 
8-18. Bullock's Wilshire, Los Angeles; Ransohoff's, San Francisco; Scruggs-Vandervoort-Barney, St. Louis; Lord & Taylor, New York. 


\OJ> j^JI^MM^ . . 

* *• 

Portrait of a bride, dressed in memorable fashion. 

Emma Domb's sheer marquisette touched with 

Chantilly type lace at the wide-sweeping yoke and 

around the edge of the apron. With mood- 

matching attendant's gown, romantic and lovely, sizes 

9-16; wedding dress about $50; bridesmaid's, 

about $35 at L. S. Donaldson, Minneapolis; 

James McCreery, New York. Flowers by John Patrick Burke. 

This bride well might choose the feminine little 

wool gabardine suit, right, by Irving Schechter. In 

two tones, as shown, or solid colors. Soft lines and 

delicate details; sizes 10-16, about $65 at Mildred Moore, 

Beverly Hills; Jordan-Marsh, Boston. Weyman hat. 

• •*«»» 


For the girl who'll be married 

at home or at an informal ceremony. 

Peggy Hunt's demurely sweet 

dotted swiss with appliqued lace 

medallions; ballet length and 

perfect to wear-ever-after. 

Sizes 10-16, it's about $40. 

For the honeymoon, Rosenblum's 

three-piece tweed with a travel 

air, practical choice for young 

matrons. Sizes 10-20, about $40 

at Bullock's, Los Angeles; 

Frederick & Nelson, Seattle. 



Lovely is the bride, and lucky, too . . . who is 

married in a suit like this. Nathalie Nicoli'l 

tailleur of Forstmann wool with scalloped detail, 

sizes 10-18, about $110 at Bullock's, Pasadena; 

Charles Berg, Portland; The Bon March, Seattle. 

Weyman's picture hat swathed in roses and 

maline is perfect for an informal wedding 

Opposite page, bridal accessories: 

Ben Brody's lattice-stitched faille handbag; 

Ted Saval's gold kid mules; gossamer hose by 

Willys of Hollywood; imported batiste and lac 

blouse, Deauville Models; Coro's never-endinc 


pearl circlet, diamond-like heart; Joseff's 

lariat to belt or use as a chain; 

Henderson's ruffled parasol: Biltmore's locket; j 

crepe gown by Chic Lingerie. 



entimental Season: Gay Prints . . . 

: mJ w. 

. ^^ Reflected glory for the wedding guest . . . left, pure silk dress by 

rV_>^ Madalyn Miller, bustle-back. Sizes 1 to 18, about $25 at California Classics, Manhasset, 
Long Island. Right, lovely silk flower print by Nan Parker, sizes 9 to 15, about $30. 


Suits With A Romantic Air 

Dressmaker suits in the news . . . left, slim skirt, flared jacket with horizontal insert: by Jaclane. In Pacific's sheen gabardine, sizes 
12 to 40, about $70 at J. W. Robinson's, Los Angeles; Macy's, San Francisco. Right, Country Club gabardine suit, flattering 
jacket, roll shawl collar, petal effect at hipline. Sizes 1 to 18, about $85 at Robert S. Atkins, San Francisco. 


'... /m 



Going by car, train, plane or steamer . . 

these coats with jaunty manners! Opposite left. 

Barney Max light topper, back pleated, 

cinched to a tiny waist; sizes 10-20, about 

$25 at Wm. H. Block, Indianapolis. 

:t, two views of wool greatcoat by Charles of California 

sizes 8-18, about $100 at Maurice Rothchild, 
Minneapolis. Right, new length, 
Jckets newly akimbo, raglan shoulder . . . 

to belt or not! Adele-California. 
es 8-16, about $90 at Allardale, Beverly Hills; 
Neiman Marcus, Dallas. 


m-wm m 


Separates, coordinates . . . make more 
of your wardrobe when you mix, match, or 
wear them with your own basic fashions. 
Opposite, Hollywood Premiere's 
rayon gabardine series of shorts, slacks, 
skirt, pedal pushers, jacket . . . plus 
white crested shirt that "goes with" any one. 
Red, white, or blue, sizes 10-18, about 
$60 for entire group, but you can buy 
separates ... at Nobby Knit Shops, 
Southern California; Plymouth Shops, New 
York. This page, Tabak of California 
creates a dancer's playsuit, skirt, shortie 
bolero ... in green, violet, gray, or 
tangerine butcher linen with big saucer dots, 
a Brighton Fabric. Sizes 10-16, playsuit- 
n-skirt under $20, at Gimbels, 
Pittsburgh. Wonderful to wear 
with your own basic whites for 
contrast, as shown. 


Daring to be different or bravely clinging to proven 
principles, Adrian is a leader in the American fashion 
parade. His seasonal innovations always make news, 
while his adherence to a belief in certain fundamentals 
of figure flattery made him stand out in the years when 
other stylists were dropping shoulders and hemlines with 
happy abandon. Standing firm for the American ideal, 
Adrian kept his decisive shoulder treatment and held 
skirts to a lovely length which was determined by a 


mirror or by personal standards of beauty rather than 
by any arbitrary inch-rule of fashion. This season his 
collection again is highlighted by the wonderful suits, 
travel ensembles and fabulous gowns which have made 
him internationally famous . . . and which we feel are 
truly Californian. Above left, the "Circus Suit" . . . 
proves again Adrian's supremacy in the world of suits. 
Here is a masterly interpretation of the town costume, 

faille sleeves in tiers of excitement on a figure-wise little 
wool suit, pompom buttons of pique giving it additional 
distinction. In navy blue only. Above and right, is the 
lace-printed organdie gown ... a flower silhouette story 
with its stamen-like bodice and the double flare of its 
full fluted skirts. The floating lace mantilla adds to the 
mood of sheer delicacy. Both are available at J. W. 
Robinson, Beverly Hills, and Gunther's, New York. 



?fp c 



u v^y 


Here is a little house designed by Paul Laszlo to 
make outdoor living more than a slogan. Curved to fit 
the road and catch a breeze, it cleverly overcomes the 
problem of how-to-keep-cool in an oven-like setting of 
sheltering hills. 

The deep overhang on the south side of this house is 
supplemented by an awning in front of the living room, 
creating a spacious balcony or outdoor living room with 
emphasis on view. The small central patio is another 
device for maintaining coolness and providing additional 
ventilation, while rooms set in a curving plan catch every 
vestige of sunlight and air. 

In addition to the difficult task of creating a hillside 
home where its occupants could live outdoors, Laszlo 
faced the challenge of planning a house that could open 
right off the street with little or no landscaping area 
before it. The noncommittal entrance wall, blank except 
for a few high windows and a window of obscure glass 
are excellent devices for any house which must of ne- 
cessity be close to the street ... or even close to its 
neighbor, in fact. 

This particular house is lemon yellow in contrast with 
natural redwood, to blend into the landscaping of formal 
flower beds arranged in shapely units of well chosen 
color contrasts. Walls of glass and the interesting pattern 
of redwood overhang give character to the small house. 

We present this particular plan not only because it 

has the spirit of California within its four walls, but 
because it provides a solution to problems so many home- 
builders face . . . the difficult small lot, an unfavorable 
exposure, surrounding country which require a certain 
type of architecture that can "sit on the side of a hill." 
This is the house you can adapt to so many locales, 
using the same entry device to protect the front of your 
house from the street, neighbors or noise. Once inside 
you'll find your house is your kingdom, California style! 

Redwood overhang and awnings 
give ample shade to outdoor 
living room and balconies on the south; 
interesting pattern of shadow and 
sunshine, and whole walls of windows. 


u ^y 




California's way with furniture stresses airy grace and utility . . . as in Brown-Saltman's desk and bookcase designed by Paul Laszlo 
in "California Desert" series. Desk is open,- cabinet moves on concealed rollers. Bookcase has copper footing, sleek lines. 
W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills and San Francisco; B. Altman, New York; The Hecht Co., Washington, D. C; Younkers, Des Moines. 







Too/ed leather chairs, Thunderbird oak chest from Karpen's "California Manor." W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills and San Francisco. 

Your future in furniture is California modern design 
. . . really the first new trend ever to be fostered 
in, by, and for America, and one that bids fair to 
outlive period furniture that our ancestors borrowed 
from Europe. Remember that "modern" doesn't 
mean cubism or fantasy in sharp angles. It's the 
clean line of fine wood and muted tone of color in 
rich fabrics. It's the furniture that grew from the 
California way of living into an integral part of 
homes, from coast to coast, that typify graciousness 
and hospitality. Examples of the imaginative treat- 
ment of furniture by our western designers are il- 
lustrated for you on these pages . . . suggestions 
that will enrich your home, promising you a future 
with livable beauty. Watch for the news in upholstery 
fabrics . . . nubby textures gleam with a sparkle 

of gold or silver threads, soft woolens in checks or 
plaids vary the solid color scheme. The use of im- 
ported woods is notable: South American prima vera 
and myrtle, Philippine mahogany, South African 
korina. Finishes range from subtle to rich . . . bleach, 
natural, toast, soft brown, copper, cordovan and 
"silver fox." Convenience and charm are unobtru- 
sively blended . . . note famous designer Paul Laszlo's 
treatment of desk-case that is movable on concealed 
rollers. In his California Desert series for Brown- 
Saltman, he utilizes touches of copper to reflect the 
spirit of the design. Karpen's "California Manor" 
group features the Thunderbird design in oak chest, 
in tooled leather for chairs. Tappan'Keal uses con- 
trasting woods in modern buffet that doubles as a 
record cabinet. 

Ilustrating the trend toward 
nultiple-use furniture, Tappan'Keal's 
junior buffet also is record cabinet! 
M Wilder's, Los Angeles; 
ord & Taylor, New York. 

Cal-Mode's sectional davenport with step-table, May Co., Los Angeles; Broadway, Los Angeles; American Furniture Co., El Paso. 

The importance of space allotment in house or apart- 
ment is apt to turn the feminine eye to sectional furni- 
ture or to coordinated groups . . . they're easy to 
arrange, and to rearrange! However, whether the liv- 
ing room you plan is spacious or city-small, these groups 
will cooperate with your fondest dream. Above, Cal- 
Mode's sectional grouping, divided by prima vera step 
table designed by Ira Lesser. The upholstery is rough- 
textured gold fabric flecked with grey, perfect harmony 
for any color scheme you choose. Sherman/Bertram's 

"Oklahoma" group, below, offers one, two, or three 
"passenger" models. Shown here is the love seat, cov- 
ered with soft nubby surface, combination rayon-cotton 
fabric. Note the unusual effect of the suspended back 
"hanging" above the seat . . . and there are no loose 
cushions. Angle of the legs provides an interesting con- 
trast to the square lines of back and seat. Either group 
pictured here offers you outstanding creative design to 
serve as the focal point in your home, or as handsome 
supplements to furnishings you already have. 

Sherman/Bertram's love seat blends with any decor; Barker Bros., Los Angeles; Famous Barr, St. Louis; Bloomingdale's, New York; 
Sanger Bros., Dallas; Bruener's, Oakland; Martha Lucas, Chicago. 

California designers have an inherent sense of the value of 
space. You'll notice that most furniture coming out of the west 
not only has clean free lines, but actually gives spaciousness 
to any room. In many cases, occasional pieces provide un- 
suspected service and storage, features which make them dou- 
bly valuable to the woman with a minute apartment . . . and 
a constant source of satisfaction to any home-owner! 

Above, L. Ronney & Sons chest has tremendous utility 
value. Designed by John Keal, it is 72 inches long with 
roll-away dours concealing eight bin-like sliding trays. 

Right, Manuel Martin's over-size coffee table of Honduras 
mahogany, drawers and corner "cupboards" part of its 
plan; Barker Bros., Los Angeles; Younkers, Des Moines. 

Below, Le Von's unique table, triangular treatment of 
upper portion making it ideal for corner interest, or di- 
vider for sectional furniture; decorative surfaces, too. 

! ^; 

it's easy to follow the sun with Feather-lite furniture! 

Van Kepple-Green, leading exponents of California-modern, dramatize patio table, chairs; Bullock's, Pasadena; Carson's, Chicago. 

Whether it's wrought iron, aluminum, rattan, or red- 
wood, California patio furniture is designed for sun- 
days at home. It's fun to give a patio party — easy 
to be a carefree hostess out-of-doors! The comfort- 
able pieces that you see on this page will make hand- 
some additions to your home. They're sure to fit 
your scheme of things, made to take all the wear 
and tear that outdoor living demands. The long- 
lasting covers on the cushions, for instance, are made 
of bright red, blue, yellow, and green vat-dyed duck. 
We think you'll like aluminum for its streamlined 
lightness, its strength; California Redwood for its rustic 
comfort; wrought iron for its rich design; rattan for 
its indoor-outdoor versatility — all of them because 
they take your parlor to the patio! Informality is the 
keynote, comfort sets the pace. But regardless of the 
style you choose, we know you'll be spending more 
time on the terrace or porch, on your garden or patio. 
California patio furniture means something new under 
the sun, for you! 

For outdoor hospitality, Meehan patio set; Barker 
Bros., Los Angeles; W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills. 


rm mm 


u u u \^y u i y i iu i_r 

Bold pattern of metal in furnishings by Pacific Iron Products; 
at W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills; Barker Bros., Los Angeles. 

For patio or pool-side, pic- 
turesque comfort in aluminum 
. . . light and easy to move; 
Deeco. At Barker Bros., Los An- 
geles; Carson' s, Chicago; 
Meier & Frank, Portland. 

Traditionally, redwood is a California favorite; here with bright accents by Utility Cabinet; available at Barker Bros., Los Angeles. 


1 ■ 







Howfc Barbecue - Brazier, at 
Barker Bros., Los Ange/es,- W. 
& J. S/oane's, Bever/y Hills. 

Largo, perfect for barbecues indoors; 
doubles as lovely fruit or flower bowl. 
At Parmelee Dohrmann, Los Angeles. 

I u 


Barbecues mean good food and gaiety 
blue jeans and cotton dresses, laughter an 
blithe, carefree spirit. And in California, ■ 
becues are as traditional as clam bakes in Iw 
England or hay rides in the farm counter 
the middle west. But from Cape Cod to Lag (I 
Beach — in small towns or big cities, in b<( 
yards or open meadows, in a bungalow c8 
mansion, a tiny two-room apartment or a !S~ 
cious luxurious penthouse — the tradition of i| 
barbecue can be adopted and enjoyed, 
models shown here range in price and style f if 
the $17.00 portable Largo to the $85(10 
custom-built Capitan De Luxe ... a few doll 
or a few thousand dollars can be spent oi 
barbecue, but anyone from a beachcomber 
a billionaire can find one to his liking. 

The Capitan De Luxe Combination Pit ly 
the Anthony Bros., approximately 10 feet vie 
with an 11 -foot chimney, features an out, 
electric spit, gas griddle, fire pan, pot arm, d 
a 25" adjusto grill. The Broadmoor, cusm 
built by the Molded Brick Products Co., io 
combination fireplace, rotisserie, and barbeie 
with a table-top cupboard and a drink coole 

The Hawk Barbecue Brazier in dull-black s;l 
(both heat and rust resistant) has remove e 
legs and a five square-foot cooking area, e 
Largo charcoal broiler in copper is 10"n 
diameter with a damper to control heat, o 
cast-iron grates, and cast-brass legs and In- 
dies. Yet another indoor and outdoor barbee 
is the stainless steel Ajax which bastes an- N 
matically and requires no watching. 

The portable Patio Chef is an outdoor aln- 
inum barbecue with a removable fire box wlh 
may be raised or lowered. The Huntington pi- 
able steel barbecue has a cone-shaped heaig 
unit with a dropped grill, a removable grt'i 
and an electrically turned spit. 



A/ax features a vertical grill, electrically turned spits or 
grates for a variety of foods. Barker Bros., Los Angeles. 

Patio Chef has baked enamel iridescent finish, a firebox that 
is easily raised or lowered. W. & J. Sloane's, Beverly Hills. 


Rattan in a versatile series of "packable" furniture ideal for home, apartment, or vacation. 

Lightweight, portable, and inexpensive, the new Pakitan furniture de- 
signed by Herbert Ritts of Los Angeles may be used with equal success 
in the living and dining rooms of small bungalows or apartments . . . 
in patios, playrooms, or dens of large homes . . . and for vacations, 
in trailers or motor launches, in mountain cabins or beach houses. 
Colorful and durable, Pakitan furniture is constructed of solid Philippine 
rattan and fine-grained mahogany weldwood. The red, green, char- 
treuse, natural, and brown seat covers are woven of indestructible 
washable plastic. Designed to completely furnish a dining room and 
living room, the eight pieces comprising the line include dinette, coffee, 
and end tables as well as lounge or dinette chairs with or without 
arms. The entire Pakitan set is constructed with simplicity and clarity 
of line. The square dinette table and the triangular end table are 
supported by straight rattan legs, the low coffee table by unique 
rattan loops. Each piece is packed in an individual carrying-case 
and can be assembled quickly and easily with a few screws ... or 
folded up again and packaged for a trip! 

Pakitan furniture designed by Herbert Ritts available at Barker Bros., 
Los Angeles; City of Paris, San Francisco; Bruener's, Sacramento. 



Here's exciting news for you in side and lounge chairs . . . 
the Lightfoot Studio has introduced two revolutionary fea- 
tures in their new model: the chair is assembled in one sim- 
ple operation, and the terry cloth cover can be slipped off in 
an instant to be laundered! Consisting of three simple parts 
— fabric cover, one-piece seat and back, and a four-legged 
base — the colorful chair is equally adaptable for use in- 
doors or outdoors. Designed for maximum comfort, it has 
a metal mesh seat and back cushioned in foam rubber one- 
inch thick. As demonstrated in the sketches below, the chair 
is speedily assembled with a screw and the form-fitting wash- 
able terry cloth is fitted over the cushioning and held tightly 
in place by elastic. 

Lounge chair by Lightfoot; W. & J. Shane's, Beverly Hills; 
J. W. Robinson Co., Los Angeles; Joske's, Houston. 






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Timeless and timely are the trends 
in California accessories for your home. 
A combination of basic primitive lines 
with classic and free forms provides an 
unusual, beautiful blend. So although 
your furnishings be period or ultra-mod- 
ern, you'll find new California acces- 
sories bring the right accents for color 
and harmony to brighten your living. 

1 . Jules of California's lamp, with 
hand carved heavy wood base, in soft 
pastel tones. Easy- to - combine free 

2. The simplicity and charm of Rip- 
ple Ware, in this soft gray glaze with 
gold ripples over deeply textured sur- 
face. From the Bennetts of California. 

3. Brockware's "Roseanna McCoy" 
pattern, modern as tomorrow, in rich 
navy blue frosted in cool white. 

4. "Malay Blossom," with delicate 
flower pattern hand-painted under 
heavy glaze. An adaptation from the 
traditional by Weil of California. 

5. "Cherry," for gay table settings, 
by Orchard Dinnerware. Matching pat- 
terned table cloth from California 
Hand Prints. 

6. The MacConnell's charming 
breakfast set, heavy glazed round 
forms, colored pink cocoa with pink 
lining. Designed for dining, Sody's nat- 
ural Belgium linen round place mats. 

7. Massive-based lamp with molded 
Indian figures in relief, and Indian key 
trim on shade. In natural glazed earth- 
ern colors, by Modspe. 

8. See-Mar's distinctive chartreuse 
and coral lamp. Carving in relief on 
ash base, linen shade in harmonizing 

9. "Nude Torso," ceramic lamp 
with antique bronze finish, from the 
original sculpture by S. J. Tye. Re- 
Ward Ceramics. 

10. Tony Hill's Aztec Indian design 
is carried out in ceramic lamp base and 
shade accent. In primitive colors of tur- 
quoise and earth brown. 

11. With the rich Renaissance col- 
ors, this Majolica flower pattern on 
crackleware, by Hartman Studio. 
Newton-Walker's rough-textured cotton 
place mats. 

12. Semi-square by Winfield China, 
in contemporary dinnerware. The new 
"White Oats" pattern, delicately 


1 . Hill House creates free forms in bowl 
and ashtray, classic vase. Softly shaded in 
gray, over stone-finished base, with highlights 
in Belgium red. 

2. Plantmasters, hewn from crude natural 
pumice stone, in blue-grey. Sponge-like qual- 
ity holds water, insulates, keeps soil fresh. 
The Aarco Company. 

3. Hand-thrown plates and bowls in un- 
usual art glazes, outstanding originals in de- 
sign and color. By Arkayo. 

4. Smilie Plastics' durable and distinctive 
bowls and trays. Poured or molded of plas- 
tic, translucent and bubbly, with real leaves 

5. Santa Anita's ceramic "Lazy Susan," 
ten removable pieces, for leisurely dining. In 
mission ivory, mist gray, California lime, siesta 

6. Gleaming brass centerpiece, to hold 
two candles and your favorite flowers or 
plants. With hand-turned wood base. By 
Draves & Patterson. 

7. Hand-turned wood "Lazy Susan," with 
six bowls and removable center bowl. Rocky 

8. Sparkling highlights in polished copper 
— hot and cold server, with 1 -quart pyrex 
dish inset, and matching individual servers. 
From Charles Cobleigh. 




9. The pair of dancing figures and scroll- 
patterned bowl in fine ceramics, from Rose- 
land Pottery. 

10. Wonderful freedom and motion typify 
the abstract figurines by Hazel Hutchins. Each 
of these modern ceramics is an original. 

1 1 . Mayan and Aztec fragments, faithfully 
reproduced in cast stone, in a limited series 
from the original sculptures by Harold Fred- 
erick Wilson. Kleinberg Brothers. 

12. Marrell Studios' enameled copper 
cigarette box, dish and bowl, with basic 
Greek designs. 

13. Serv-Rite, practical folding tray tables 
for individual serving. Gaily patterned, by 

14. The Host-Mobile, removable glass 
trays on this attractive chromium-plated a 
purpose cart. From Hollywood Metal Products. 

(If any of these items are not at your favorite de- 
partment store, write The Californian.i 


California is not the largest egg producing area in the 
world. That we admit, though we hasten to add that we do 
raise them by the million and cook them in hundreds of 
ways. We also boast that Petaluma is known as "The egg 
basket of the world" and though you may suspect that we 
were nudged into that one by some Chamber of Commerce, 
you can't deny that they do raise chickens there. The air 
is white with feathers and loud with proud cacklings. And 
those biddies have something to be proud of. Their product 
is responsible for more myths, controversies, rituals, old 
wives' tales and good eating than almost any other food 
in the world. 

One myth, common to many ancient peoples, was that a 
mighty bird once laid an enormous egg and that that egg 
became the earth. (Did you ever have the feeling of tread- 
ing on eggs?) One controversy is the old one: which came 
first, the hen or the egg? Plutarch, and a lot of others, took 
this so seriously that they wrote learned treatises on the 
subject. They arrived at the same inevitable conclusion: 
who cares? One custom that has become world-popular is the 
decorating of Easter eggs. There are many theories as to 
how it all started, the true one probably being that eggs are 
a symbol of rebirth, as is spring, and Easter. The tale I like 
best, however, is that when, in the fourth century, the Church 
banned the eating of eggs during Lent, the hens — the heretics 
— continued to lay them. The thrifty housewives, in order 
that they would keep, hard boiled them, and in order that 
they could palm them off on their friends as Easter gifts, 
they colored them and painted them with pretty designs. 
One old wives" tale, started by Horace was "Choose eggs 
oblong, they're sweeter than the round." One new wives' tale 
is that hard boiled eggs should be called "hard cooked eggs," 
this being because eggs should be cooked in water just under 
the boil. But I can hard-poach, hard-fry. hard-bake, even 
hard-scramble an egg and so can you. Isn't that hard cooking? 

One of these myths that does not amuse me is the one that 
has grown up about the making of an omelette ... it is silly. 
(When I say omelette I mean a French omelette, not the 
high fluffy kind, the souffle omelette, that we find in so many 
American kitchens.) They say that one has to go to France 
to learn to make an omelette. They say that an omelette 
pan should never be used for any other purpose, that it 
should be made only of iron (or copper, or steel — they don't 
agree), and that it should never be washed, merely scoured 
out with salt. All this I once believed but I have learned 
better. A