UC-NRI-F
LO
3
A CALIFORNIA PILGRIMAGE
A CALIFORNIA
PILGRIMAGE
BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE OBSERVANCE OF THE
SIXTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY OF BISHOP KIP'S FIRST MISSIONARY
JOURNEY THROUGH THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY TOGETHER WITH
BISHOP KIP'S OWN STORY OF THE EVENT COMMEMORATED
PUBLISHED AT FRESNO, CALIFORNIA, FOR
PRIVATE SUBSCRIPTION ONLY
MDCCCCXXI
COPYRIGHT 1921 by LOUIS C. SANFORD
CONTENTS
PAGE
A PILGRIMAGE TO FORT MILLER 5
A DIGEST OF THE SERMON PREACHED ON THE OCCASION . 13
LETTERS OF THE RT. REV. W. INGRAHAM KIP, D. D.
I. LOS ANGELES 2O
II. FORTTEJON 30
III. THE PLAINS AND FORT MILLER 40
i U
A PILGRIMAGE TO FORT MILLER
IXTY-FIVE years ago the interior of California A
was an almost unknown desert. Herds of California
antelope roamed over its untilled plains. Its Pilgrimage
mountain fastnesses had been penetrated by-
only a few venturesome explorers. The foot-
hills, between the plains and the peaks, har-
bored a handful of white settlers who had
been drawn by the lure of gold, or the amazing fertility of the
river bottoms, but for the most part remained the hunting
ground of bands of redmen, aggregating five thousand souls,
perhaps, who gathered acorns and pine nuts and speared the
fish in the shallows of the streams.
Clashes between the savages and the pioneers occasioned
the planting of two army posts in this region: Fort Tejon in
the pass which afforded exit from the San Joaquin Valley
into Southern California and Fort Miller on the San Joaquin
River, guarding the approaches to the Southern Mines. Sub-
stantial adobe buildings were erected by the government at
each place, and garrisoned with a company of artillery. When
the Indians, beaten in a decisive battle, sued for peace, the
5
A treaty, to which the Chieftains of the several bands affixed
California their mark, was ratified on a plateau just above Fort Miller.
Pilgrimage Between Stockton at the mouth of the Valley, and Los
Angeles in the South, the only settlements were at these forts.
Tejon was a strictly military encampment, but near Fort
Miller, a village of about one hundred inhabitants established
itself, and taking the name of Millerton, became the county
seat of Fresno County.
In 1855 Major Townsend, of the Arsenal at Benicia, was
instructed to inspect these army posts, and Bishop Kip embraced
the opportunity to visit this raw country with him. The story
of the trip was told in three letters to the Spirit of Missions,
which are reproduced in the following pages. His journey
culminated at Fort Miller where he spent ten days, officiated
on Sunday, appointed a lay reader, and left in the conviction
that the services of the Church would be continued. Within
a few months of the Bishop's visit, however, the troops were
withdrawn from the fort and, except for a brief period during
the Civil War, it was never occupied again. The infant town
of Millerton maintained its miniature but active existence
for several years. It was a shanty town to the last, distinguished
from others only by a substantial court house, now roofless,
whose granite first story with its barred windows was a neces-
sary adjunct to the saloons to which the Bishop calls attention.
One learns with interest that the mason who built it was the
first to enjoy its grim hospitality. When the Southern Pacific
Railroad pushed its track through the Valley, the Millerton-
ians with one consent picked up their lares and penates and
migrated to the railroad, twenty miles away, there to plant
another infant town, now grown to astonishing proportions
6
Fresno. In a short time a concrete dam will be thrown across A
the river at Millerton, and the remains of town and fort will California
be buried in the reservoir of a great irrigation project. Pilgrimage
It seemed to the Convention of San Joaquin that before
the landmarks should be obliterated some commemoration of
Bishop Kip's first missionary journey ought to be made on
the spot where he officiated. Accordingly, at the annual meet-
ing of Convocation in May, 1 920, a committee was appointed,
consisting of the Very Rev. G. R. E. Macdonald, the Rev.
G. G. Hoisholt, Mr. L. A. Winchell, Mrs. L. L. Cory, Mr.
C . H . Miller and Mrs. H . C . Tupper, to arrange for a pilgrim-
age commemorating the sixty-fifth anniversary of the coming
of the Church to the San Joaquin Valley. The efficient work
of the committee was a labor of love. Most of the members
were the children of pioneers and took a deep personal interest
in the matter. When Fort Miller was abandoned, the land
passed into the hands of the Hart family of Fresno, and for
several years past has been leased as a cattle ranch. Because of
the vandalism of irresponsible parties, the lessee, Mr. C. P.
Roche, had been obliged to close his gates to all visitors. But
he very cordially entered into the spirit of this occasion and
not only threw open his grounds but his own house, which
was the identical building in which Bishop Kip officiated ;
and to his courtesy much of the success of the pilgrimage
was due.
On the morning of October 2oth, under a cloudless sky,
forty or more cars left St. James Pro-Cathedral, Fresno, with
guests and representatives of the clergy and laity from all
parts of the diocese. The procession followed back the trail
over which fifty years ago the pioneers travelled from the
9
^ abandoned town. An hour's drive brought the company to the
California western opening of rhe quadrangle of the fort where the cars
Pilgrimage were parked in a double row, much, perhaps, as the military
wagons were parked in earlier days. The clergy vested, and
led by a crucifer and followed by a flag bearer who preceded
the long line of lay people, more than the former population
of town and fort combined, walked in silence to the upper
end of the plaza, where, under an old fig tree, facing the adobe
in which the First Bishop of California held his service, a
chaplain's portable altar, used in the late war, had been set
up on a pine table. In the open air, surrounded by a reverent
group of clergy and laity, the Bishop of San Joaquin celebrated
the Eucharist, and the Second Bishop of California preached
from the text of Bishop Kip's first sermon on the coast. The
congregation, accompanied by no instrument, sang heartily
the familiar hymns: "O God our help in ages past", "Our
father's God to Thee", "Jesus shall reign where'er the sun",
and "For all the saints who from their labors rest." About
one hundred persons received the sacred elements and at the
close of the service the procession returned to the cars in the
same order as at the beginning.
A little later, the plaza was covered by groups of people
seated on the ground, who shared with each other the lunch-
eons they had brought with them, while an energetic com-
mittee of ladies provided coffee for all who came.
The day was concluded with a tour of the fort. Mr. L. A.
Winchell, Vice-President of the Fresno Historical Society,
whose boyhood had been passed at the fort, led the way from
point to point, and interested the visitors with reminiscenses
of early days.
10
PROCESSION OF PILGRIMS
CELEBRATION OF THE EUCHARIST
"THAT ROCK WAS CHRIST' -i COR. 10-4
A Digest of the Sermon preached on the occasion of the Pilgrimage
to Fort Miller by Rt. Reverend William Ford Nichols, D.D.
Bishop of California.
HIS is the text which Bishop Kip seems to A
have chosen to point the purpose of his work California
in California. It was the text of his first Pilgrimage
sermon, preached a few hours after landing
from the steamer, in Trinity Church, San
Francisco, January 29, 1854. The sermon
itself is probably not preserved. But in his
"Early Days of My Episcopate" the Bishop quotes from it
that "Commencing now a new era ... it is fitting that these
words should be at once my present theme and the type of
what should be my message in days that are to come". We may
then find in it his message from his pioneering episcopate.
As we gather here on this pilgrimage, so happily conceived
by your Bishop and Convocation, to celebrate the sixty -fifth
anniversary of the first trip of the first Bishop of California
through the San Joaquin Valley, an almost overwhelming
rush of associations with such an event bids for the telling. But
A the time, especially as you are a standing rather than a seated
California auditory, dictates rigid compression. Otherwise, we might
Pilgrimage dwell upon the whole of his itinerary through the valley
after spending Sunday, October 7, 1855, in Los Angeles, as
he stopped over Sunday, the I4th, at Fort Tejon, near Teha-
chapi, and came here to Fort Miller on Sunday the aist. His
chapter about it in his "Early Days" has all the absorption
of the adventure for land experience of California that Dana's
"Two Years Before the Mast" has for the sea. Indeed a
good heading for it might be "A Month Behind Army Mules" .
There is much of interest connected with the six members
of the party, including a son of John C. Calhoun and Major
E. A. Townsend, whose protection on his tour of inspection
of the Forts was necessary for the Bishop in those days of
bandits and outlaws, and whose hospitality the Bishop accepted
as making the visitation possible.
The customary contrasts between then and now both in
conditions of the country and the Church, also inevitably
occur to us, such as the range of the lone sheep herder over
barren plains then with the happy teeming populations and
fields of "Wheat and barley, vines and fig trees, pomegranate,
oil, olive and honey," now; such as the one Bishop, ten
clergy, and less than five hundred communicants then, with
six Bishops, two hundred and fifty clergy, and twenty-six
thousand communicants in the State now. But we cannot do
more than glance along the inviting vistas of such topics, and
will only try to note and fix in our minds for wholesome
appropriation, as far as we can, some of the genius of Bishop
Kip's own theory of service as outlined in the text.
And for that working theory of his, it will suffice if without
entering into any general exposition of the text, we simply j
interpret its symbolism as meaning to him Christ, the succor ^ #///<?
in the call to service. The rock of difficulty was made to the *t*grtmage
Israelites of old the well spring of opportunity. The rock that
depicted the very desolation of the desert of Zin was made to
gush out with the waters for the parched lips of the people
that were murmuring. There were signally taught in this two
great principles of spiritual force.
First, spiritual force moves in the direction of the greatest
resistance. This is a feature distinct from that characteristic
of natural force which exhibits it as moving in the direction
of least resistance. The windings of a river bed or of a canon
have been determined by some antecedent rivulet that turned
aside from the obstacle of a twig or a pebble in its first tiny
course. The lace work around the circumference of a hot
spring is an illustration of a depositing side by side of particles
of matter that the gently welling water circles around the
rim as it moves where there is the least resistance of previous
deposit. And the rock of resistance swerves the tide through
a Golden Gate. The contrast of this with spiritual power is a
determining of real character. The rock of challenge in the
difficulties and obstacles of life is one for the smiting in a spirit
of moving in that very direction of greatest resistance. Any
occupation, and any demonstration of free will power shows
that. The one who always tries to do the easiest thing is bound
to fail. "The slothful man saith ' There is a lion in the way'. "
And the one worth his salt has many a time in business and
inthe home, to attack the problem and the hard proposi-
tion with all his might, just because it is hard. That spirit
explains one side of Bishop Kip's pioneering. The old Latin
'7
jl maxim is to the effect that "through difficulties we reach the
California stars".
Pilgrim ave The other great principle of spiritual power that is a veri-
table twin principle with this and goes with it in actual
experience is this: When spiritual power moves in the direc-
tion of the greatest resistance, it also moves in the direction
of its greatest assistance. The smiting of the rock by Moses
started the water supply for thirsty Israel. The rock stroke of
faith brought the very relief stream for the famished. Face
hardship and free help. Strike the Sierras and gurgling water-
ways transform the San Joaquin Valley from a desert to an
Eden. "Help yourself, and God will help you." That con-
sciousness of the "Lo I am with you" of his Master, in a
Presence of greatest help just in the time of greatest test of
dauntlessness, explains another side of Bishop Kip's pioneer-
ing. Much we might say of the scholar and apologist for the
Church in his many and much read writings, much of his
fine gentleness with his noble bearing, much of notable events
in which he shared in his episcopate of two score years. But
his example for us as we gather under this glad sunshine today
for our Eucharist and recall his visit here in the days of small
things and big obstacles, seems winningly to contribute
to our own spheres a most grateful and valuable reflection.
Individually and collectively, laymen and clergymen, men
and women in church and home and state, in which there
are many tendencies to down-grade, easy going ways, it does
give us a good deal to think of on the lines of those twin
principles of spiritual power. First, that it moves in the
direction of greatest resistance, and second, that it at the same
time moves in the direction of greatest assistance. Can we not
18
go away from this memorable scene to attack with fresh inspir-
ation just the cares and burdens that each heart knows as its
D "7 *
own? Could there be a happier answer to that query which
Bishop Kip put to us as "Children of the next generation?"
He visualized the California Churchmen that were to come
and asks, "When they are worshipping in splendid buildings
and members of powerful parishes, how will they regard our
early struggles?"
In speaking heartiest congratulations for myself and I am
sure for all our Church people in California, who have inher-
ited the fruit of the labors of the first Bishop of California, as
I do my dear Bishop, to you and your clergy and laity, on this
days' celebration, may we not call it our memorable Fort
Miller pilgrimage? And as was the wont of pilgrims of old to
choose some symbol as a badge, like the scallop shell or the
Jerusalem cross, may we not wear on our hearts the image of
a Rock, chiselled with the name Christ; of a smiting the rock;
of a gushing stream; all to betoken our fresh devotion in using
for character and service those precious principles of the
pioneer text,
"That Rock was Christ"
A
California
Pilgrimage
I. LOS ANGELES
The following letters of Bishop Kip, containing the story of his
journey through the San Joaquin Valley in October, l8$$ y
appeared serially in "The Spirit of Missions" in February,
March and April, 1856. They have never been published in
any other form and are reprinted here by courtesy of "The
Spirit of Missions."
OR MORE than a year I had been attempting
to visit the southern part of the State, but
was never able to do so. The unsettled state
of the country, infested by the worst class
of whites and Mexicans, often robbing in
large parties, rendered it unsafe to travel ex-
cept with a party thoroughly armed. Such
a party I could not find until the present time, when Major
Townsend, U. S. A., being ordered to inspect Forts Tejon
and Miller, had to pass through the country, and I availed
myself of the opportunity. Some other friends having offered
to join us, for the purpose of seeing the country, we had a
sufficient number for security. Besides Major T., my youngest
son and myself, the party consisted of Hon. Edward Stanley
20
(late of N. C.,), Mr. Jas. E. Calhoun (late of S. C.,), and Mr. A
J. T. Smith of San Francisco. California
My objects were, to spend a Sunday at Los Angeles, where Pilgrimage
the services of the Church had never been performed; another
Sunday at Fort Tejon, where we have a lay-reader; another
at Fort Miller, where there has never been a service; and,
generally, to see what is the character of the southern half
of the State with reference to future prospects of the Church.
I propose, therefore, in these three successive articles, to
give an account of our expedition through this section of the
country. The first will be our visit to Los Angeles; the second,
our journey to Fort Tejon, and Sunday at that place; and the
third, our travel over the plains to Fort Miller, and thence
home to San Francisco. In doing this, I shall not confine
myself to Church matters, but give such other statements with
regard to the inhabitants and the physical features of the
country, as will be likely to convey information desired by
the many readers of this periodical.
Ottober 1,1855.
At 4 p.m., we were on board the steamer Republic for San
Diego. The last time the captain and I voyaged together, we
were wrecked in the Golden Gate, and I found, therefore,
that he looked rather suspiciously at me. The fog was rolling
in when we sailed, and no sooner had we passed the Heads,
and struck the swell of the ocean, than we plunged into a
dense bank, in which it was impossible to see for twenty feet.
The captain says, he never went out in so thick a fog. At
intervals, all night, the bell was kept ringing, and about three
in the morning we were, as the captain supposed, off Mon-
terey. We therefore came to, and as the sea was heavy, we
21
A were left rolling in its trough for the night. At day-break the
California fog still continued, and we kept slowly drawing in to land
Pilgrimage until about ten o'clock, when it lifted and we saw the coast,
so that we could enter the harbor.
We anchored as usual in the bay, when the boats came off
and took us to shore. Monterey is unchanged since I had
service here last year, in August. Everything is as quiet and
beautiful as ever a perfect Spanish town and no apparent
accession to the American population. I spent part of the time
we were here in visiting the few churchmen. The last half
hour on shore was passed with the Hon. Mr. Wall, collector
of the port. Three weeks afterwards he was found a few miles
from Monterey dead on the road, pierced with seven balls,
and the gentleman with him also dead, a short distance off.
They had been attacked by a party of five mounted Mexicans,
who afterwards effected their escape. Subsequently, in attempt-
ing to capture them, Mr. Layton, another of our few church-
men here, was killed, with two others. I mention this to show
the necessity there was for my being with an armed party in
travelling in this southern country. At 3 p. m., we sailed, but
the sea proved to be rough, and most of us were soon invisible.
The rest of the day, and through the night, we were pitching
about in that dreamy, uncomfortable state of being, afraid to
move for fear of consequences.
Wednesday, Otf.j.
The sea smoother, but the fog still dense. In the morning
the captain found he had run too close in shore, and was near
the spot where, last year, the unfortunate Yankee Blade was
lost with so great destruction of life. During the morning the
fog cleared off, and we got on our true course. At i p. m. we
22
anchored opposite to Santa Barbara. We went ashore in the A
steamer's boat, at most times a difficult business on account of California
the heavy surf. As there is no wharf, the boat has to be run up Pilgrimage
on shore, while the passengers watch their chance and jump
before the wave returns.
Santa Barbara has entirely its old California population.
There seem to be hardly any Americans settled there. Every-
thing, therefore, is primitive and quiet. Their houses are all
open as if they lived out of doors, and their agricultural imple-
ments, ploughs and wagons, scattered about, are of the same
clumsy pattern their fathers used in Mexico a century ago.
The town is about half a mile from the bay, and may contain
about twelve hundred inhabitants.
A mile and a halfback, on the rising ground, at the base of
the hills, stands the old Mission of Santa Barbara. We walked
out to it and found the same evidences of decay and delapida-
tion which characterize all the California Missions. There is,
as usual, an extensive range of buildings, once occupied by the
priest, and terminated at one end by the large Church. Around
were the remains of their vineyards and gardens with a few
slight houses, about which some Indians were lounging in the
sun, the relics of their once numerous bands of converts.
As we found there was a solitary priest still residing here
and keeping up the services of the Church, we knocked at his
door and brought him out an old man in the coarse gray
Franciscan dress. Calling an Indian boy, he sent him to unlock
the church for us. It was like all the other Mission churches,
with little to recommend it but its size, and having, at the
entrance, the usual horrible pictures of Purgatory and Paradise.
In the front of the building was a circular reservoir and a stone
2 3
-" fountain, now dry, with considerable carving about it. We
/~* / v* *
7 found there was a succession of these reservoirs on the moun-
Pugnmage ta j n gj^e, eac } 1 one o f a little higher plane than the others, and
connected by canals. In this way water was brought fourteen
miles from its source in the mountains. Now, however, most
of them are dry, their stone ornaments are broken in pieces,
and the surrounding country, which the old Padres thus irri-
gated and made like a garden, is fast relapsing into former
wildness. It is a lovely spot, however, commanding a wide
view of the country and bay, and was selected with the usual
good taste of the Friars.
We walked back again to the shore, and at 7 p. m., were
again under way.
Thursday, Oft. 4..
About 7 a.m. we anchored opposite San Pedro (420 miles
Irom San Francisco) and the end of our voyage. At the edge
of the water is a high bank, and from this the plain extends
far as the eye can reach. There are three adobe houses on the
bank, and everything looks just as it did when Dana described
it in his "Two Years Before The Mast, "more than 20 years
ago. We landed in the steamer's boats, and after a breakfast at
one of the houses, a wagon was produced, to which four half-
broken California horses were harnessed. The men hung on
to their heads till the signal for starting was given, when
they released them, and away they dashed at full gallop,
our driver occasionally looking in to ask us "on which side
we wished to fall when we upset." This seemed to be his
standing joke, and one which I thought it not improbable
might be realized.
The plains were covered with thousands of cattle and horses,
24
quite reminding us of old California times. In the 25 miles of A
our journey, there were but two or three shanties, erected by California
squatters, who were raising cattle, and not a fence or enclosure, Pilgrimage
except the corrals, about them. We reached Los Angeles in
less than two hours and a half, having changed horses once on
the way. As we approached the town there was a marked
change from the treeless sterility of the plains. We found our-
selves winding through the midst of vineyards and gardens,
and on all sides saw the workmen engaged in the manufacture
of wine.
Friday, O5t. 5.
Los Angeles has all the characteristics of an old Spanish
town. It contains about 5,000 inhabitants, 2,000 of whom
may be Americans or English. The houses are almost invari-
ably one story high a style of building which an occasional
earthquake has rendered advisable. All around it is a perfect
garden, luxuriant with every kind of fruit. We visited one vine-
yard, which, besides a profusion of other fruits, contained
50,000 vines of a large blue grape. Part of these grapes are
each week sent to San Francisco by the return steamer from
San Diego, and part are manufactured into wine.
Saturday, Off. 6.
We availed ourselves of this day to see something of the
surrounding country. We drove out about a dozen miles to the
San Gabriel Mission. It stands in a most lovely country, but
like all the others I have visited, is now in a state of decay.
The single priest remaining here a Frenchman, speaking no
English took us into the Sacristy and showed us the rich
dresses, heavy with gold embroidery the remnant of their
25
A former glory, and probably brought originally from Spain. We
California entered the large Church once filled with their Indian con-
Pilgrimage verts, but now of a size entirely useless. Half a dozen children
were on their knees before the chancel, who went on with
their devotions without seeming to notice our party. The
eldest was reading aloud from some devotional book, while
the others at intervals responded. The thick stone walls of the
Church were hung with the usual wretched pictures. Around
the Mission is a country which, by the richness of its soil,
could produce anything. It is well irrigated by little streams
from the mountains, led through the fields by the labour of
the old Padres. The only settlers, however, are the lowest class
of Spanish Californians or Indians, whose little huts are scat-
tered about, among which the children were running around
in a perfect state of nudity. In the hands of our Eastern farm-
ers, this country, with its perpetual summer, would become a
per feel: Eden.
About a mile from the Mission is a rich tract of wooded
country, called the Monte, and celebrated for the luxuriance
of its crops. Corn grows here to a height which would seem
fabulous at the east. It is peopled by a wild class of settlers
from our Western States, who have no religious instruction
but what is derived from the excitement of an occasional
Methodist camp-meeting. Besides this "no man careth for
their souls."
On our way home we stopped at the vineyard of a gentle-
man, who is one of those most interested, in Los Angeles, in
the establishment of the Church, and I describe it to show
what Providence has done for this country. It is about five
miles from town, the house standing on a rising ground, from
26
the front of which there is a view of many miles of rich land- A
scape, much of it dotted with oak trees. His men were all busy California
in the manufacture of wine, and while some of them were Pilgrimage
bringing in the rich grapes in baskets, others, standing in the
vats with their naked feet, were literally "treading the wine
press." The proprietor receives $8,000 a year from the sale of
his wine alone.
In his vineyard, besides the grapes, we found a collection of
fruit which I have never seen equalled in any part of the world.
There were melons of all kinds, figs, just bursting, delicious
peaches, pomegranates, tuners (the cactus fruit), pears, Madeira
nuts, etc., all were about us. Strawberries are raised here
through the whole year.
Sunday, Ott. 7.
Until within the last six months, there had been no religious
service of any kind in Los Angeles, except those of the old
Romish Church. As the preaching there was in Spanish, the
Americans never went to it, and were without anything to
mark the coming of Sunday. At that time the Presbyterians
sent a minister here who officiated in one of the public court-
rooms, while the Methodists erected a small building, and
commenced their services. The latter place had been offered
to us for our service this day.
We had service morning and evening the first time our
solemn Liturgy was ever heard in this section of the country.
At the morning service there were about 8 o present, and a much
larger number in the evening. The next day just before leaving
the place, I baptized the four children of a gentleman, whose
family, at the east, had been attached to our Church. I found
several such families in this place, whom I sought out and
27
A visited. They are literally " Christ's sheep dispersed abroad in
California this naughty world." Before leaving, I had an opportunity of
Pilgrimage conferring with a number of the inhabitants. They told me,
the persons present had been much impressed with the dignity
and solemnity of our service that neither Presbyterianism
or Methodism could produce any influence on this popu-
lation but they had no doubt the Church could be estab-
lished under very favorable circumstances. They wanted
something that did not preach Nebraska or Kansas, slavery
or anti-slavery, and was not identified with any of the isms
of the day.
I have no doubt but that they are right, and that the system
of the Church is the only thing which can produce permanent
impressions. They professed to be ready to give a support to
a clergyman, as soon as the right kind of a man could be sent.
It needs a man, however, of zeal and energy, considerable
pulpit talents and knowledge of the world. Our Church people
at the east, residing all their lives in a settled state of society,
have no idea of the difficulty of establishing a congregation
from the conflicting elements of a population who have not
heard the Gospel preached for years, who are living under
no religious restraints, and among whom the religious
element is yet to be created. It is a work of faith, of time,
and patience.
Yet how many there are of our energetic young men to
whom this would present a noble field! Where they would
be the first heralds of the Church, and, instead of wearing out
their lives in a severe and changing climate, they might make
their home in one of the healthiest places in the world, where
they would enjoy the blessings of a perpetual summer. It is
28
for this reason, perhaps, that the early Spaniards named it the A
city of Los Angeles (the city of the Angels); and I certainly California
have never seen a country which more fully realizes Bishop Pilgrimage
Heber's description
. . . "Every prospett pleases,
And only man is vi/e."
29
A
California
Pilgrimage
II. FORT TEJON
^Monday, Oft. 8.
E LEFT Los Angeles for Fort Tejon (about
100 miles distant), at 1 1 o'clock. Our ve-
hicle was a large heavy wagon, for no other
is adapted to the mountain passes through
which our road leads. It was drawn by four
mules, and we had a driver well acquainted
with the country.
Our driver was also well armed, and the gentlemen with
me had their rifles and revolvers. It may seem strange to an
eastern reader to hear of a visitation being made with such
accompaniments, but here there is no help for it. The country
through which we are to pass scarcely settled is infested
with California and Mexican outlaws, whose trade is robbery,
and who will often down a traveler for the sake of the horse
on which he is mounted. Our friends in Los Angeles warned
us, when we got out to walk, as we should often be obliged
to do, not to straggle off, but to keep together. Sometimes
these banditti attack in groups, as in the murder of Mr. Wall
which I mentioned in my last number. At other times a single
Mexican dashes on horseback by the unsuspecting traveler.
30
As he passes within 20 feet, suddenly the lariat, coiled up at A
his saddle bow, is whirled round his head, and ere the traveler California
can put himself on his defense, its circle descends with unerring Pilgrimage
precision, and he is hurled, lifeless, from his horse. Then, too,
in camping out at night, our rest may be invaded by a grizzly
bear, as they abound on these mountains. They often exceed
i, 600 pounds in weight, and have such tenacity of life that
an encounter with them is more dangerous than with an
African lion.
We had hardly got out on the plains, a couple of miles from
Los Angeles, when, in descending a gulch, part of the harness
broke, the mules whirled around, and we were only saved
from an overturn by the snapping off of the pole. Nothing
could be done but for our driver to take a couple of mules,
return to town, and have a new one made. So there we were
left for some hours with the wagon and other mules. I read
or looked out over the desolate plains, while my companions
practiced rifle shooting. About three in the afternoon our
driver returned, and we made a new set-off. We shortly passed
through a chain of hills, and then again over the plains for
seventeen miles. Not a living object was seen for hours, till
towards evening, the coyote wolves came out, and we saw
them loping along with their long gallop, often numbers in
a troop. Night closed, and we drove on some time in darkness,
till the appearance of a single light, a long distance ahead,
showed that we were approaching some habitation. After a
time we reached some enclosures the first we had seen since
leaving Los Angeles and found ourselves at the old Mission
of San Fernando. The buildings are the most massive I have
seen. Along the whole front runs a corridor, which must be
3 1
A three hundred feet in length, supported by heavy square stone
California pillars. Some of the apartments are forty feet long, with thick
Pilgrimage stone walls and stone floors, reminding me of old castellated
mansions iri the south of Europe. We had letters to Don
Andreas Pico, the present owner of the mission, and as he was
absent, presented them to his Major-Domo. Two or three
other travellers arrived late at night from different directions.
One of them a specimen of the varied characters to be met
with here was a Scotchman, a graduate of the University
of Edinburgh, who had been mining for some years in South
America, and was now seeking his fortune in this new land.
He arrived almost exhausted, having had no food or water for
twenty-four hours. His horse had given out in the mountains,
and pursuing his way on foot, he suddenly saw a huge grizzly
in the path before him. Afraid to fire at him, he unslung his
tin prospecting pan, and drawing his ramrod, commenced a
clatter on the pan, which soon drove the grizzly off.
We had a regular Spanish supper, olla podrida (beef with
red peppers and onions), frijolas and tortelas, with native wine.
At night we were all put in a room 40 feet long, with one bed
in the corner. This, two of the party occupied, and the rest
wrapped themselves in their blankets on the stone floor.
Tuesday, Qtt. Q.
We were up at dawn, expecting to be off early, but were
detained an hour for breakfast. Our morning ablutions were
performed at a little stream in front of the door, which the
old padres had led there to irrigate the gardens. We availed
ourselves of this delay to inspect the buildings. The church is
like all other Mission churches, with one peculiarity. One
3 2
wall forms one side of a quadrangle, the other three sides of A
which are buildings about ten feet high. This space was for- California
merly used for bull-fights, and the spectators were accommo- Pilgrimage
dated on the roofs of these buildings. There are two very
extensive vineyards, abounding also with other kinds of fruit.
The grapes here are said to be of a finer flavour than those of
Los Angeles. The workmen at the mills were making wine
at the time.
We had a Spanish breakfast exactly similar to our supper
the night before. Upon offering to pay the Major Domo, he
refused to receive anything. We then urged him to take a
present for himself, but he said, "No, when strangers come
along, if they make me a present, I receive it, but not from
the friends of Don Andreas." And all this was announced with
the highest Castilian manner.
It was seven o'clock before we left the Mission, and after
proceeding a few miles, reached the San Fernando Pass, where
the road had been cut through a deep defile in the mountains.
Here we had to get out and walk, and the scenery was the
wildest I have seen since I crossed the Alps. How our heavy
wagon was to get over was a marvel to us. At one place was a
ledge of rocks almost perpendicular, about four feet high,
down which it plunged, as if it would turn over and crush the
mules, while we involuntarily held our breath as we looked
on. In the pass, a couple of Indians on horseback met us as we
were walking, and were loud in their demands for money, till
some one of the gentlemen allowed their arms to be seen,
when their tone was moderated considerably. Had my com-
panions been unarmed, it was evident they would have had
no scruples about enforcing their wishes.
33
After passing the hills our course for twenty-two miles was
California over a level plain, at the termination of which we entered,
Pilgrimage what was stated to be the most dangerous part of our journey
a canon, or winding defile through the mountains, about
seventeen miles long. It is a narrow pass, hemmed in on both
sides by the high mountains, often allowing scarcely room for
the wagon to pass. A small stream flows through it, which is
crossed by the road more than eighty times during the seven-
teen miles. In addition to its being the resort of grizzlies, its
fastnesses are the hiding-places of the American or Mexican
desperadoes who are such a scourge to this part of the country.
We stopped just at its entrance, near the only house there
is for twenty miles in any direction, to take lunch and rest
our mules. A short time before, this house had become so
notorious a resort for robbers, that the people from Los Angeles
captured its inmates two Americans and four Mexicans
and hung them by lynch law. As the spring at which we stopped
was only a hundred yards distant, we noticed that the house
had a new set of occupants, but did not learn whether its
character had improved.
It was about noon that we entered the defile, the branches
of trees often on both sides sweeping against our wagon, and
long before sunset involving us in twilight. Many parts of it
reminded me of our ride through the mountains on the Isth-
mus, from Crucis to Panama. Through the whole day we saw
no human being, and did not wish to, as they probably would
not be of the class we would like to meet. So on our mules
dragged the heavy wagon, over the rocks and through the
streams, while most of the way we walked.
We had intended to extricate ourselves from the canon
34
before daylight ended, so as to encamp out on the open plain A
beyond. But when night came, we were still five miles from California
the end, our mules tired out and it rapidly becoming too dark Pilgrimage
to thread our way through the ravines. We, therefore, turned
aside to a level spot which we reached, with the little stream
on one side and high rocks behind us. A fallen tree furnished
an abundance of wood for our fire, which was supplied with
large logs to last through the night. Here our basket of pro-
visions was opened, tea boiled, and reclining about the fire
we had our evening meal. Then came the preparations for
the night. Two of the party slept in the wagon, while the
rest lay around the fire wrapped in their blankets. Rifles were
fresh capped, revolvers examined, and each slept with his
arms within reach. No regular watch was kept, as some one
was up every hour to replenish the fire, and the mules pick-
eted around would prove the best sentinels to give notice of
the approach of men or wild beasts.
Wednesday, Oft. 10.
We were up before daybreak, and on our way as soon as it
was light enough to see the path. We were obliged to walk
the greater part of the five miles through the ravine. At last
we emerged into an open valley, covered here and there with
oaks. In this we found a company of Californians camping
with several hundred cattle, which were scattered over several
miles and which they were driving to the upper country to sell.
Where the valley expands into the wide plains, Elizabeth
Lake was pointed out to us at a distance. It is about half a
mile long, and lay glittering in the sunlight, exactly like
snow of the most dazzling whiteness. On coming near we
found it was without a drop of water, but filled with a deposit
35
A of saleratus. Not far off was the canvas hut of a settler, the
California only house we were to pass in our day's journey, near which
Pilgrimage lay the remains of three bears he had lassoed and killed.
The plains here are about fifteen miles in width. As the
day advanced it became intensely hot ; yet we were obliged to
push on until we could reach some water to prepare our break-
fast and refresh our mules. About half past 10 o'clock, after
traveling five hours, we reached a little spring, at which we
were obliged to stop, as there is no water for the next fourteen
miles. By damming it up we obtained enough for our wants.
There was, however, no shade and no tree within miles of us.
We all scattered, therefore, about the plain to pick up sticks,
and the wagon was arranged so as to get as much shade as pos-
sible on one side of it. Into this we crowded, and our fire was
built to prepare for breakfast. Some of our party were almost
exhausted, but we found that hot tea, equally with sleep,
merited the praise of being
"tired nature' s sweet restorer "
It was a long hot drive all day over the plains. There was no
timber, except in one place, for a couple of miles; the plain
was covered with a kind of palm. We saw numerous bands of
antelopes, but, frightened by our wagon, they kept at a dis-
tance. There was a dreary uniformity in our prospect the same
flat, scorched prairie. In one place we descended for a dozen
feet, and passed for half a mile over the dry sandy bed of what
was once a wide river. We saw no one, except a train of four or
five wagons containing a party of Mormons going from Salt
Lake to their settlement of San Bernardino, in the southern
part of the state.
36
In the middle of the afternoon we reached the only water to A
be found for many miles. It is a small spring of which an Irish- California
man has taken possession, as it is the place where travelers are Pilgrimage
obliged to stop. He has a canvas house of one room, and sup-
ports himself by his gun and by furnishing provisions to parties
passing over the plains. A pile of antelope skins lying near the
house gave an intimation of what our fare was to be, and we
soon had a dinner of the meat cooked for us out in the open
air. We camped out near his house.
In the evening a man arrived on horseback with another led
horse. He proved to be a Mormon belonging to a party camped
twelve miles distant in the hills, by whom he had been sent
down for provisions. He was a perfect specimen of the wild,
reckless, swearing class of men who infest this country, per-
fectly careless of his own life and that of every one else. Late
at night, to our relief, he took his departure, and we heard him
shouting and singing as he went up through the hills, "making
night hideous" with his ribaldry.
Thursday, OB. II.
The stars were shining when we arose, and as there is no
dressing to be done, it does not take us long to prepare for our
journey. Before we set out, "Irish John" cooked a breakfast
for us out of doors. In a few miles the plains ended, and we
reached the hills, and then wound through valleys dotted with
old oak trees, and occasionally a little lake. We saw, as the day
before, frequent bands of antelopes. About noon we reached
Tejon Pass, a valley hemmed in by mountains, and having at
its entrance a large dry lake of saleratus glittering in the sun.
The wind wafted up the loose powder from the surface, and it
hung over it like a white cloud. The valley here is several miles
37
A wide, and as we drove up we saw on the soft earth, through the
California whole length of our way, the tracks of large grizzlies who had
Pilgrimage preceded us. As we approached the military post our driver
gave an increased crack to his whip and urged the tired mules
to a spasmodic effort as we dashed up to Captain G.'s quarters,
where he was ready to receive us.
The fort at theTejon is on a little plain, entirely surrounded
by high mountains, which give it a confined appearance. It is,
however, a beautiful place, surrounded by oak trees. Under
one of these, which stands on the parade ground, in 1837,
Peter LaBec, an old hunter, was killed by a bear, and his com-
panions buried him at its foot. They then stripped the bark for
some three feet from the trunk of the tree and carved on it an
inscription, surmounted by a cross, which remains to this day,
though the bark is beginning to grow over it on all sides.
The barracks handsome adobe buildings are being creeled
around the sides of the parade ground. None of them are yet
finished, and the soldiers were living in tents. The officers, too,
were living in canvas houses, except one who had a small adobe
building which is soon to be demolished. There are ordi-
narily about six officers and one hundred and twenty dragoons
stationed here, besides the numerous civilians who are store-
keepers and employees of the post. About a dozen of the
dragoons are kept seventeen miles off, on the Reservation, to
watch the Indians.
Sunday r , Oft. 14.
There is no service of the Church within two hundred and
fifty miles of this place, nor any religious service of any kind
nearer than Los Angeles. It happens, however, that all the
officers at this post are Churchmen several are communi-
38
cants and two of them have their families here. One of them A
was, therefore, some months ago, licensed to act as lay-reader, California
and our service has been regularly performed. My object in Pilgrimage
spending this Sunday here was, by myself holding service, to
give in the minds of the men a sanction to that of the lay-
reader to administer the Holy Communion, which some of
them have had no opportunity of receiving since they left the
Eastern States and also to baptize several children, whose
families may remain for several years at this secluded post,with-
out the opportunity of seeing a clergyman.
We had service in a large room of the unfinished barracks.
All the officers and quite a number of the men attended. At the
Communion there were seven recipients, besides the members
of our own party. At noon I baptized at one of the officer's
quarters, his child, which could not be brought out to service;
and after the second lesson, in the afternoon baptized the child
of another officer. In the evening I visited the family of a
soldier w]o had died that day. He was buried early the next
morning, his comrades firing their volleys over his remains,
after I had read the burial service at the grave.
Thus ended my Sunday at this dragoon station. In addition
to the pleasantness of our visit from the warm hospitality we
received from the officers, I felt myself compensated for the
toil and labor of reaching here, by the opportunity afforded of
administering the solemn sacraments of our Church where
they had never been witnessed before, and for the benefit of
those who otherwise might not receive them from other hands
for years.
39
A
California
Pilgrimage
III. THE PLAINS AND FORT MILLER
Monday, Oft. 75.
BOUT 1 1 o'clock we took leave of our hos-
pitable hosts, several of the officers accom-
panying us on horseback for our first day's
ride. We had the same driver and heavy
wagon as before, with six mules, a guide on
horseback and two saddle horses, so that
some of us could always ride, and tkus relieve
ourselves and also lighten the wagon of our weight.
For the first few miles through the pass of the mountains
the scenery was exceedingly wild, and the descent so great that
we had to walk most of the way. The road descends 2,400
feet in five miles. From the mountain side we had a view of
the plain stretching as far as the eye could reach, and in the
distance, glancing in the sunlight, the waters of Kern Lake.
Just as we entered on the plain we passed a small Indian village
of about 40 persons.
We skirted the mountains about 1 2 miles, when we arrived
at the Indian Reservation. Here we were obliged to stop for
the rest of the day, as Major Townsend is ordered to investigate
40
FORT MILLER, FRESNO COUNTY
APPROACH OVER THE OLD MILITARY ROAD
its condition. There is here a tract of 30,000 acres set apart by A
the Government for the Indians, but at present there are some- California
what less than 300 residing on it. At this season, however, the Pilgrimage
wild Indians from themountainscomedowntounite with them
in holding their annual Dog Feast, so that there are about i ,000
present. We passed them in groups, almost in a state of nudity,
washing their clothes by the little stream which flows through
the Reserve, and on reaching their grand encampment stopped
and walked through it. Their lodges were arranged in a circle,
all opening inwardly. They were lounging in the shade, roast-
ing dogs and eating, while the greater part of those otherwise
employed were gambling. The women particularly seemed to
be so intensely occupied this way that they could scarcely look
up to us. They sat in circles on the ground, and the favorite
game was one with sticks, a foot long, thrown about like jack-
straws.
We drove on about four miles to the residence of the Indian
agent. He has a plain house, with a hall and room on each side,
where he lives with eight or ten employees. A short distance
from the house, on a little knoll, is the grave of one of his men
killed a month before by a grizzly.
At dark we determined to visit the Indian camp to witness
some of their ceremonies. Horses were provided for us by the
agent, under whose guidance we went. There was just moon
enough to show the trails as we galloped over the prairies, and
long before we reached the camp we heard the sound of the
Indian drums. We found them all very busy, fires lighted in all
directions, and music, such as it was, sounding about. Some of
the party tried dog's meat, but I was willing to take their report
of it. This feast was in honor of the dead of the past year, and
43
-A on one day during its continuance they bury all the effects and
California clothes of the departed.
Pilgrimage There was to be a war dance late in the evening by some of
the wild Indians, which was to take place outside of the camp.
A large fire was made, and we waited for an hour, during which
time some of the more civilized Indians, who had been at one
time at the old Missions, were singing songs. It was curious,
however, to hear in how nasal a tone this was done, sounding
very much like the intoning of the service by the old padres,
from whom they had undoubtedly caught it. Tired out with
waiting, I went into an Indian lodge near and threw myself
down to rest. As I lay there, looking up to the roof above me,
made of tula reeds, the only light being the glare of the fire
before the opening of the lodge, and listening to the discordant
singing of the Indians without, I could not help thinking how
strange it was to find myself in such a situation in this wild
country of the Pacific coast.
Hearing at last that the war party had finished painting and
were nearly ready, we walked out in search of them. We found
them grouped around the dim embers of a fire, so that they
were hardly distinguishable, singing in a low droning tone, as
if preparing their spirits for the task. After a time they rose,
and repairing to where the large fire had been built, ranged
themselves before it. The musicians, half a dozen in number,
seated on the ground on the other side, began their playing, a
rude chant, in which the dancers joined, accompanied by
the noise of sticks struck together. The dancers were entirely
naked, except a slight girdle round the loins, with a necklace of
bear's claws, and a tiara of feathers on their heads. Their bodies
were entirely painted, while their leader had a horizontal line
44
drawn across his face just below the nose, the upper half of the "
face being painted white and the lower half black, through California
which his teeth gleamed like those of a wolf. They had the Pilgrimage
appearance of demons more than anything else.
They commenced the dance, which was most violent in its
character, so that the perspiration rolled down from off them
in streams. It was a commemoration of the dead, and as those
who died in battle were mentioned in succession, the leader
went through the representation of their deaths, throwing
himself down on the ground and acting the last scene with its
struggles and exhaustion. Sometimes he threw himself into the
precise attitude of the antique statue, "The Dying Gladiator/*
at Rome. As the dance went on, they seemed to work them-
selves up into an intense excitement, and would continue it,
we were told, till morning. I confess I was somewhat relieved
when late at night the signal was made for our party to dis-
engage themselves from the crowd of Indians and get without
the camp preparatory to our return. It was clear starlight, and
there was something exhilarating in our ride, as for about an
hour we followed the guidance of the agent over what seemed
to us the pathless prairie.
Can anything be done for the spiritual benefit of these In-
dians ? It is difficult to tell, as they are so migratory in their
habits, seldom remaining together in large bodies for any
length of time. The old padres succeeded with them because
there was no outside influence to oppose their schemes. There
is every variety of Indian tribe in this region, from the warlike
Indians at the north and on the borders of Mexico, down to the
Digger Indians, who seem to live a mere degraded animal life.
Still, the experiment might be tried on one of the northern
45
A Reservations, where a better class of Indians are collected. In-
California telleclually these Indians seem to be exceedingly bright, and
Pilgrimage children taken into families as servants learn the English lan-
guage with great facility.
The Indian agent entertained^us to the best of his ability,
giving one room in which there was a bed to myself and son,
and the only other room to the rest of our party, who slept on
the floor wrapped in their blankets.
Tuesday, Ott. 16.
We were up by daylight, and after washing at a little stream
near the house, had breakfast furnished us at the agent's. After
driving about six miles, we came to some springs called "The
Sinks," where we found two men who had camped during the
night. This was the last water we were to see for more than 30
miles, and here, too, we took leave of all evidences of human
life for the rest of the day. Before us stretched a plain, scorched,
dry, and apparently boundless, without a tree for miles. At a
distance, during the earlier part of the day, we saw a lake, the
borders of which seemed lined with bands of antelopes.
By mid-day the sun was burning hot, and we dragged over
wastes of sand till our animals drooped, and we ourselves were
almost exhausted. At noon we halted a few minutes to rest,
though in the glare of the sun, and without leaving our wagon
took such lunch as our stores afforded. Then on on we wiled
for the rest of the day. We met but one person a Mexican on
horseback. In the afternoon the ground became rolling, and
as we dragged up each knoll we hoped to see some traces of the
promised river, but before us was only a new succession of the
same barren mounds. Our guide and driver began an animated
discussion about the direction of the different trails, until we
feared that they had mistaken their way. At length Major A
Townsend, riding forward to the crown of one of the mounds, California
announced that he saw the river below. We found it was in a Pilgrimage
deep valley, with a line of trees through it showing the presence
of water. We left the wagon to let it drive down the precipi-
tous bank, and then walked half a mile to the Kern River,
having traveled 33 miles without water.
The Kern River is about 100 feet broad, from two to six
feet deep, and flowing with a beautifully clear stream. On the
bank we found a canvas shantee belonging to a man who has
settled himself here and constructed a scow with which, in the
rainy season when the river is high, he ferries over any chance
passengers. He warned us to be on our guard, as the Mexicans,
some fifty miles above, having been driven out by the inhabi-
tants, were dispersed over the country, and had committed a
number of murders.
We crossed the river and camped in a grove of cottonwoods
and willows, perfectly tired out. Never was the sight of water
so grateful to us, and we now could realize the meaning of the
Eastern description "a barren and dry land where no water
is." A good bath in the river, however, refreshed us, and after
building our fire and having supper, we spent a pleasant even-
ing reclining on our blankets about the burning logs.
Wednesday, October if.
We were awakened before dawn by the howling of the
coyotes about us, and after a few hurried mouthfuls were off
before six. Late at night we had seen on the opposite side of
the river a fire, showing that some others had camped there.
At daylight they crossed, and we found they were two men on
47
^ horseback from the upper mines, crossing the country to Kern
California River mines. On the plains they had taken the wrong trail
Pilgrimage a nd wandered about all day, almost dying of exhaustion. As
one of them expressed it, "starved to death for want of water."
Providentially, late at night they struck the Kern River.
After leaving the grove by the river, we entered at once
among the most desolate hills. Not a sign of herbage was seen
in them not enough to attract a bee. We met with no evi-
dences of animal life through the whole morning, except a
large gray wolf, which was stealing away between the hills.
As one of our party said, it was "Sahara in mountains." The
road (if such it could be called) was an old Indian trail wind-
ing through the defiles between these barren hills, and so little
worn that most of the time we were obliged to walk to avoid
the steep pitches. As the day advanced the heat became almost
suffocating, as the hills excluded the air, while the reflection
of the sun from their sandy sides made an intolerable glare.
Our guide informed us that at noon we should reach a camp-
ing ground where there was water. At that time we saw indeed
a line of green trees in one of the valleys, showing a water
course, but on reaching it we found it almost entirely dry.
There were two springs near it, both so strongly impregnated
with sulphur that we could not drink of them, so that we had
to content ourselves with the hope of reaching White River in
the evening. We saw, however, numerous places around where
stakes had been driven into the ground for picketing animals,
showing that it had been frequently used as a camping ground.
The journey of the afternoon was as oppressive as that of the
morning. We were constantly passing deep gulches and over
hills where we had to get out and walk. How often, when we
had taken refuge behind some rock against the heat of the sun, A
did we realize the force of that Scripture imagery "Like the California
shadow of a great rock in a weary land 1" Towards evening a Pilgrimage
large grizzly was seen about a mile from us, among the hills.
The two gentlemen who were on horseback, together with a
third, mounted on our guide's horse, went off with their rifles
to attack him, approaching from three points so as to distract
his attention, as he would probably make a rush at the first one
who fired. But Bruin, probably alarmed by seeing so many
approaching, galloped over the hill and took refuge in a ravine,
where he was lost to them.
At sunset we saw at a distance in the valley the line of green
trees which marked the course of White River. Our exhausted
animals seemed to toil on with new vigor, but our disappoint-
ment cannot easily be described when we found that it was en-
tirely dry nothing but a bed of shining sand. We had traveled
33 miles, equal to 53 miles of ordinary traveling. We crossed
on the dry bed, and ranging up the bank for some distance,
came to the canvas house of a squatter, near whom we camped
in a grove of oaks. He had dug a shallow well, which was not
a spring, but water oozed up through the earth, and was as
muddy, therefore, as the usual water of our gutters. We pro-
cured enough, however, to make some tea, though there was
none for our poor animals after their hot day's work, and after
a hasty meal were soon asleep around our fire.
Thursday, Ottober 18.
We were stirring long before dawn, and ofFas soon as it was
light enough to harness, it being necessary to push on as fast
as possible to procure water. The country was of the same
49
A character as yesterday, sandy and desolate. When going up a
California hill,we discovered that one of the hind wheels was just coming
Pilgrimage o ff. The lynch-pin was gone, and we were detained while our
guide rode back some miles to look for it. His search, however,
was vain, and one had to be made from wood, though a poor
substitute for the iron one, and needing constant watching.
About 10 o'clock we found a spring among the hills, sur-
rounded by a clump of willows, where, by building a dam
across the little trickling stream, we procured enough for our
breakfast and to refresh our wearied animals. After leaving
this spot, from the side of a hill we had a striking view of the
Great Tulare Valley. It stretched as far as the horizon, one
unbroken, scorched, and yellow waste, with what seemed a
single thread of green running through it, showing the course
of Deep Creek.
A few miles on we met a wretched looking object travelingon
foot on his way from the mines. He seemed almost exhausted,
and we relieved his wants, as far as we could, by giving him
something to eat and drink, and directing him where he could
find the spring we had left. A couple of hours afterwards we
met the sheriff with an assistant, who informed us he had been
breaking up a band of robbers, some of whom had been taken,
while others were still lurking within thickets on Tulare
River, where we expected to encamp.
At noon we reached Three Creeks, but found it dry. A squat-
ter by the river had, however, dug some pits, from which we
procured a small supply of water. We passed through the same
kind of country till the middle of the afternoon, when we saw
at a distance the trees on the banks of Tulare River. We crossed
it and camped in a grove of oaks. After a refreshing bath in its
50
beautiful clear waters, we had a visit from a Mr. G , who had A
settled on the river near our camping ground. He invited us to California
tea, which we were most happy to accept, and we shall long Pilgrimage
remember the hospitality of these good people. Their house
was but a single room, with a couple of beds in the corners, but
they gave us a capital tea, at which they presided with a dignity
not often seen in "the states". We spent an hour after tea with
our host, during which time he entertained us with adventures
in the wilderness and stories of grizzlies attacking parties in the
thickets by the river where we had camped. We probably that
night were a little more careful than usual in keeping our fire
replenished.
Friday, Ottober ig.
On our way, as usual, by daybreak. I awoke with a feeling
of illness which increased during our drive of 19 miles over a
scorched plain. We at length entered an oak forest of the most
splendid trees, having in it here and there small settlements of
Indians, who were busily engaged in collecting their winter
store of acorns. After going through this for nine miles we
came to a stream called "Four Creeks" which we crossed and
camped beyond among the oaks. It was but little past noon, but
the next water being 1 8 miles on, it was too far for our mules to
go that day. The woods here seemed to be swarming with
Indians, so that we are obliged to keep a strict watch on our
wagon.
My illness having increased, I lay down on the hard boards
of the wagon, where I remained till sundown, thinking, in case
I was to be really ill, what should I do? two days' journey
from any settlement or physician. Life in the wilderness answers
in perfect health, but not in sickness. Towards evening, feeling
5 1
A better, probably from rest and abstinence, I crossed the river to
California a shell of a house which a squatter had erected on the opposite
Pilgrimage side, where we procured tea. The woman who prepared it for
us was suffering from fever and ague, which is common on all
these river bottoms. Her wretched appearance did not impress
us favorably with regard to our night's rest in the open air in
this malarious atmosphere.
Saturday, Otfober 2O.
Up before light, and drove about nine miles through the
oaks to a solitary house where we procured breakfast. The
house consisted of but one room, three of the corners of which
were occupied by beds. The next 1 8 miles were over the hot
plains then about seven miles through the forest again, crossing
several dry river beds filled with cobble stones, till late in the
afternoon we reached Kings River, a bright stream about 200
feet wide. We forded it, and found on the opposite side a beau-
tiful plateau covered with oaks. Two teamsters had camped
there with their mules, who told us they were obliged to cross
the plains we had been over, in the night to avoid the excessive
heat. There were large bodies of Indians on the banks, whom
we visited after our camping was arranged. They employed
themselves in fishing and hunting, being exceedingly skillful
with the bow and arrow.
Being out of provisions, we purchased some fish of the Indians,
while Major To wnsend and our guide forded the river on horse-
back, and riding up some distance came to a settler's house,
where they bought some chickens and eggs. The fallen trees
around us furnished an abundant supply of fuel for our cooking
and fires through the night.
We had expected this night to have reached Fort Miller,
52
but found ourselves 30 miles distant. We had been mistaken in A
our calculations from the necessity of arranging our journeys California
each day with regard to the supply of water. Stay where we Pilgrimage
were, however, over Sunday, we could not. We had no pro-
visions, and the air was so malarious, that we found the Indians
about us, though born on the spot, were decreasing in numbers
through the effects of the fever and ague. Nothing remained
for us, therefore, but to push on next morning, and reach Fort
Miller as early as possible, that a portion of the day at least
might be devoted to its proper objects.
Sunday, Ottober 2 1st.
We were up this morning by four o'clock, long before the
faintest streak of dawn appeared in the east. After a hasty break-
fast of sea-biscuit and hard-boiled eggs, we set off while it was
so dark that we could not see the trail through the open woods,
but were obliged for some miles to trust to the sagacity of the
mules, leaving them to walk and find the path for themselves.
After a few miles we emerged from the oak openings, when
the rest of our way was, as usual, over the dusty, scorched plains.
Between 10 and 1 1 o'clock we reached the hills overlooking
Fort Miller, and walked on, leaving the heavy wagon to plunge
down the steep hill side as it best could. We passed through
the infant town of Millerton, on the San Joaquin River, about
half a mile from the fort. It consists of some 20 houses, most of
them of canvas, two or three being shops, and the majority of
the rest drinking saloons and billiard rooms. The population
is Mexican, or the lowest class of whites, and on this day they
seemed to be given up entirely to dissipation.
The fort is situated on a plateau overlooking the town and
53
A river. It is an artillery fort, and at this time had about 70 men
California stationed here. The service of our Church had never been per-
Pilgrimage formed here, nor had there been anything to mark the day
when Sunday came. Arrangements were soon made after our
arrival for the service in the evening, and a broad hall in one of
the buildings devoted to the officers was cleared for that pur-
pose. The officers attended and many of the soldiers, and after
the Second Lesson I baptized the child of one of the privates.
A beginning having thus been made, before I left the fort I
licensed Dr. M , the surgeon, a communicant of our Church,
to act as lay-reader, and arrangements were made for having
the service regularly every Sunday.
We remained at the post for ten days, resting from the fatigue
of our journey and enjoying the open hospitality of the officers.
Our arrangements were made to leave on Wednesday, leaving
behind Major T., whose professional duties required him to
remain for a few days, and one other of our party. Here, too,
we left our wagon, for a small stage had recently penetrated as
far as Fort Miller. It had only made two trips when we had
occasion to employ it. It runs to Snelling's about 70 miles
where we are in the region of the regular stage routes.
It came for us before daylight, and taking leave of our hos-
pitable entertainers, we commenced our journey on the banks
of the San Joaquin. About nine o'clock we stopped at a solitary
house intended for teamsters, where for one dollar each we had
a breakfast, but everything was so filthy that we could hardly
eat even after our long morning ride. The drive for the whole
day was over the same kind of country as during the preceding
week desolate plains varied with an occasional hill, and now
and then a cattle ranch. We drove on through the whole route
54
without stopping, except to change horses, until night, when A
we reached Snelling's Tavern, a central point from which California
stages go up through Mariposa county. Pilgrimage
The next morning the stage started at four o'clock, fortu-
nately bright moonlight, which lasted till daylight took its
place. We had half a dozen passengers, including a Chinese.
After fording Stanislaus River we had another wretchedly
filthy breakfast at a tavern on its banks. The country we passed
through began now to show signs of cultivation. Oak trees are
scattered park-like through it, and we passed rich farms, in-
creasing as we approached Stockton. We reached there at
4 p. m., just in time for the boat, and the next morning awoke
at the wharf in San Francisco, after being absent about a month.
Thanks to a kind providence, after all the dangers we had
passed through, we reached home without a single accident, or
any case of illness among our party. I was able to accomplish
all I designed. Knowing the state of things at Los Angeles, I
can now speak understandingly to any clergyman who can go
there, and I trust before next spring some such will be pro-
vided. Forts Tejon and Miller will have the services of the
Church regularly through their lay-readers, and need not again
be visited for a long while. The remainder of the country we
have passed through cannot evidently be settled for many years,
and I shall probably, therefore, never again be obliged to travel
the same route we did on this occasion.
55
COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS A
VERY REV. G. R. E. MACDONALD, Chairman
MRS. L. L. CORY Pilgrimage
*REV. GEORGE GREIRSEN HOISHOLT
MR. CHARLES H. MILLER
MRS. H. C. TUPPER
MR. L. A. WINCHELL
CLERGY (Vested)
RT. REV. Louis C. SANFORD, D. D.
Bishop of San Joaquin
RT. REV. WM. FORD NICHOLS, D. D.
Bishop of California
REV. W. B. BELLISS, Lindsay
REV. A. CARSWELL, Madera
REV. L. W. DOUD, PH. D.
REV. DAVID TODD GILLMOR, Hanford
REV. F. D. GRAVES, Reedley
REV. A. L. WALTERS, Tulare
REV. L. A. WOOD, Porterville
LAYMEN (rested)
MR. WM. C. HARVEY, Crucifer
MR. HAYDN ARROWSMITH, Flag Bearer
OTHER CLERGY
REV. T. T. GIFFEN
REV. CORNELIUS RICHERT
RABBI ALEXANDER SEGEL
*Absent
61
A LAY
California _ _
MRS. HAYDN ARROWSMITH
Pilgrimage MR. CHARLES R. BARNARD
MR. ROBERT R. BARNARD
MR. B. L. BARNEY, Hanford
MRS. W. B. BELLISS, Lindsay
MRS. N. J. BLAYNEY
MRS. ALFRED BRAVERMAN
MRS. F. R. BURCHILL, Lindsay
MRS. J. H. BURNETT
MRS. MARIAN CAMP
MRS. SARAH CAMP, San Francisco
MRS. EDWARD COPLAND
MRS. M. P. COPLAND
MR. GEORGE R. COUPER, Madera
MRS. GEORGE R. COUPER, Madera
MRS. WILLIAM DAVIDSON, Porterville
MRS. MILTON BEARING
MRS. KATE B. EVERETT, Tulare
MRS. C. EVINS
Miss CLARK. FARLEY
MRS. G. M. FICKLE, Reedley
MRS. W. A. FISHER
MRS. JULES FONTAINE
MRS. M. L. FRENCH, Selma
MRS. CONSTANCE GANSE, Tulare
MRS. T. T. GIFFEN
Miss ALICE GIFFEN
Miss MARIAN GIFFEN
MRS. J. W. GILLINGHAM, Reedley
MRS. F. D. GRAVES, Reedley
Miss SARAH GRAVES, Reedley
MRS. WELTHA HALL, Porterville
MR. THOMAS HARRISON, Hanford
MRS. WM. C. HARVEY
MRS. G. A. HATFIELD
MR. R. J. HEATHCOTE, Hanford
MRS. FRANK HELM
MRS. GEORGE HELM
62
PILGRIMS
MRS. ANNIE R. HEWITT
MR. J. D. HIRSCHLER, Reedley
MRS. J. D. HIRSCHLER, Reedley
MRS. EDWARD C. HOPKINS, Porterville
MASTER PARIS MELVIN HUMPHREYS
MRS. GEORGIA Cox INGRAM, Oilfields
MRS. E. B. ISHAM, Porterville
MRS. WILHELMINA JENSEN, Parlier
MR. VIGGO KRAG, Parlier
MRS. M. L. LECHLIDER
MR. O. D. LYON, Reedley
MRS. O. D. LYON, Reedley
MRS. G. R. E. MACDONALD
i
MASTER BRUCE MANSON
MRS. GUY MANSON
MR. W. T. MATTINGLY
MR. J. C. McCuBBiN
MRS. W. J. McNuLTY
Miss LUELLA MELVIN
MRS. CHARLES H. MILLER
MRS. S. J. MILLER
MRS. FANNIE B. MINOR
Miss MARGARET MOORE
MR. H. R. MORTON
MRS. H. R. MORTON
MASTER HENRY MORTON
Miss LOUISE MORTON
MR. A. C. MUDGE
MRS. FRANK NADEN, Clovis
MRS. H. E. PATTERSON
MRS. L. N. PEART
MASTER ROSCOE PEART
MR. A. W. PETERS
MRS. A. W. PETERS
MASTER ARCHIBALD W. PETERS, JR.
MASTER EDWIN PETERS
MR. BERNARD REINOLD, Madera
MRS. BERNARD REINOLD, Madera
LAY PILGRIMS Continued
MRS. J. G. RHODES
MRS. G. A. RIGGINS
MRS. SUSAN ROBERTS
MRS. F. E. ROBINSON
MR. C. P. ROCHE
MR. G. A. ROESSLER
MRS. G. A. ROESSLER
Miss JULIA RANDOLPH ROESSLER
MRS. J. E. ROLKEY, San Jose
MR. FRED P. ROULLARD
MRS. FRED P. ROULLARD
MR. JOEL ROULLARD
MRS. JOEL ROULLARD
MRS. ALBERT M. RUTHERFORD
MRS. L. C. SANFORD
MASTER ROYAL SANFORD
Miss JESSIE SAVAGE, Lindsay
MRS. S. R. SCROGGINS, Selma
MR. H. R. SHAW
MRS. H. R. SHAW
HON. S. L. STROTHER
MRS. S. L. STROTHER
DR. J. F. SUMMERS
MRS. G. H. TAYLER, Reedley
MRS. MONTGOMERY THOMAS
DR. ROLAND TUPPER
MR. WALTER G. URIDGE
MRS. WALTER G. URIDGE
MRS. BRUCE WAGNER, Hanford
MRS. C. N. WAKEFIELD
MR. BEN R. WALKER
MASTER ALBERT CLARK WALKER
MRS. E. A. WALROND
MRS. A. L. WALTERS, Tulare
Miss DOROTHY WALTERS, Tulare
MASTER HENRY WALTERS, Tulare
Miss MARGARET WALTERS, Tulare
MR. GEORGE S. WATERMAN
Miss MARION WHEELER
MRS. L. A. WINCHELL
A
California
Pilgrimage
Two hundred and fifty copies of A California Pilgrimage
have been printed by Bruce Brough at San Francisco
in the month ofjune nineteen hundred twenty-one
No. tj
14 DAY USE
RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
LOAN DEPT.
This book is due on the last date stamped below, or
on the date to which renewed.
Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.
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RECTD LD
APR 10 1959
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REC'D LD *'
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General Library
University of California
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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
