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Full text of "A camera crusade through the Holy Land"

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THE LIBRARY 

OF 

THE UNIVERSITY 
OF CALIFORNIA 



A CAMERA CRUSADE 



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)F SAMAJ 

John iv, 7. There cometh a woman of Samaria \<< draw 
water. 

John iv, 7, 9; ii, 13. 
Kx. xii, 3-7, 13, 14. 
Isaiah hu, 7. 
I Cor. v, 7. 
Heb. xi, 28. 
HVv. v, 12. 






A CAMERA CRUSADE 

THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



BY 

DWIGHT L. ELMENDORF 
n 



WITH ONE HUNDRED 
PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS 



NEW YORK 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
MCMXII 



COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY 
CHARLES SCRIBNF.R'S SONS 



Published October, 1912 




GIFT 



DS 



TO THE MEMORY 

OF 

MY MOTHER 



304 



FOREWORD 

IN 1093 Peter the Hermit returned from a pilgrimage to 
Jerusalem and gave such a pitiful account of the unhappy sit- 
uation of the Christians in the East that he aroused all Chris- 
tendom to such a degree that armies were raised and in 1096 
started toward the Holy Land. 

The wars carried on by the Christian nations of the West 
from the eleventh to the latter half of the thirteenth century 
for the conquest of Palestine were called Crusades, from the 
Portuguese word cruzado, that is, "marked with the cross," 
because the warriors who followed the holy banner wore the 
sign of the cross. 

In 1901 I started for the Holy Land with my ever-faithful 
camera on my back, my only weapon, simply to journey 
through the land with a desire to see for myself places men- 
tioned in the Bible, to study ancient customs which still 
remain, and if possible to understand the significance of many 
sentences in the Scriptures which were very obscure to me 
and to those who tried to teach me; in fact, my faith was 
wavering, I was in doubt, yet one verse in Matthew compelled 
me to go: "Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall 
find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you." 



viii FOREWORD 

I went, I asked, I knocked: I doubt no longer, now I 
know. The journey on horseback through the Holy Land was 
a revelation to me; may my description of it be a help to 

many. 

DWIGHT L. ELMENDORF. 



CONTENTS 

FAGS 

THE SOUTH 3 

THE NORTH 19 

JERUSALEM 40 

PLATES AND TEXTS . 57 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

A Woman of Samaria Frontispiece I 

Joppa from the Sea 

The Sea from the Roof of "One Simon a Tanner" Ill 

A Bread Seller at Joppa IV 



% The plates numbered VI, VII, IX, XIII, XV, XVII, XVIII, XXI, 
XXXVI, XLIII, XLIV, XLV, XLVI, LI, LIII, LX, LXI, LXVI, LXXII, 
LXXVII, LXXVIII, XCVI, C, are reproduced from copyrighted photo- 
graphs taken by Messrs. Underwood & Underwood, by whose permission 
they are used in this book. 



A Threshing Floor XVIII 

Shepherds Leading Their Flocks XIX 

Shepherd's Pipes, Sling, and Scrip 

The Brook Kidron at Marsaba XXI 

The Wilderness of the Scapegoat XXII 

The Salt or the Dead Sea XXIII 

The Shore of the Dead Sea XXIV 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

A Woman of Samaria Frontispiece I 

Joppa from the Sea II 

The Sea from the Roof of "One Simon a Tanner" Ill 

A Bread Seller at Joppa IV 

Plain of Sharon from the Tower of Ramleh V 

The Roses of Sharon VI 

Ploughing VII 

The Valley of Eshcol VIII 

Abraham's Oak IX 

Hebron The Pool and the Mosque X 

Solomon's Pool XI 

The Village of the Shepherds XII 

Shepherds Watching Their Flocks XIII 

The City of David which Is Called Bethlehem XIV 

The Manger in the Church of the Nativity XV 

The Fields of Boaz XVI 

Ruth and Boaz XVII 

A Threshing Floor XVIII 

Shepherds Leading Their Flocks XIX 

Shepherd's Pipes, Sling, and Scrip XX 

The Brook Kidron at Marsaba XXI 

The Wilderness of the Scapegoat XXII 

The Salt or the Dead Sea XXIII 

The Shore of the Dead Sea XXIV 



xii ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

The Jordan Ford XXV 

Looking Up the Jordan XXVI 

Elisha's Spring near Jericho XXVII 

The Mount of Temptation XXVIII 

The Jericho Road and the Samaritan Inn XXIX 

The Brook Cherith XXX 

The Apostles' Spring on the Jericho Road XXXI 

The Wilderness of Judaea from Jericho Road XXXII 

The Shadow of a Great Rock XXXIII 



Bethany XXXIV 

Ruin of the Supposed House of Mary and Martha XXXV 

Two Women Grinding XXXVI 

The Mount of Olives XXXVII 

North-east Corner of Jerusalem. Mizpah in the Background . . . XXXVIII 

Bethel XXXIX 

A Judaean Highway XL 

Looking North toward Shiloh XLI 

Shechem and Mount Gerizim XLII 

The Old Codex at Shechem XLIII 

From Mount Ebal over Sychar, Jacob's Well, and Mount Gerizim XLIV 

Ruins Over the Site of Jacob's Well XLV 

Sychar, Jacob's Well, and Mount Gerizim XLVI 

The Midst of Samaria XLVII 

The City of Samaria (Sebaste) XLVIII 

Herod's Columns at Samaria, or Sebaste XLIX 

The Plain of Jezreel L 

Ploughing in the Plain of Jezreel LI 

A Jordan Ford LII 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Xlll 

PLATE 

LIII 



Mount Tabor from Mount Carmel 

Nazareth from the Damascus Road LIV 

Mary's Well at Nazareth LV 

Nazareth toward Mount Carmel . LVI 

Cana of Galilee LVII 

Mount of the Beatitudes LVIII 

The Sea of Galilee LIX 

Fishermen Casting Their Nets LX 

Over the Sea toward Capernaum LXI 

Where the Jordan Enters the Sea of Galilee LXIl 

Upper Jordan Valley LXII1 

Bedouin Tents LXIV 

The Waters of Merom and Mount Hermon LXV 

Still Waters LXVI 

Roman Bridge over the Jordan LXVII 

An Oak Tree LXVIII 

Old Roman Bridge near Dan (Caesarea Philippi) LXIX 

The Source of the Jordan LXX 

Damascus , . . . LXXI 

Snowy Peaks of Mount Hermon LXXII 

Mount Lebanon LXXIII 

The Heart of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives LXXIV 

The Mosque of Omar on the Site of the Temple of Jerusalem . . . LXXV 

The Dome of the Rock LXXVI 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre LXXVII 

The Throng of Pilgrims and Others LXXVIII 

An Old House with an Upper Chamber LXXIX 

Coins Used in Palestine During the Time of Our Lord LXXX 

The Pool of Bethesda . LXXXI 



xiv ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

An Old Street, Jerusalem LXXXII 

The Wailing Place of the Jews, Jerusalem LXXXIII 

West Wall of Jerusalem LXXXIV 

Pool of Gihon LXXXV 

South-eastern Slope of Mount Zion LXXXVI 

The Valley of Hinnom, Gehenna LXXXVII 

The Pool of Siloam LXXXVIII 

The Tyropoean Valley LXXXIX 

The King's Dale and Job's Well _ . . XC 

South-east Corner of the Temple Wall, Looking North .... XCI 

The Spring of Mary, or the Virgin's Well XCII 

The Valley of Jehoshaphat, looking Up Kidron Valley .... XCIII 

The Gate Beautiful, or the Golden Gate XCIV 

The Garden of Gethsemane and the City Wall of Jerusalem . . . XCV 

The Garden of Gethsemane XCVI 

The Damascus Gate XCVII 

A Green Hill without a City Wall XCVIII 

Gordon's Tomb XCIX 

The Stone Rolled Away C 

Map showing route followed by the author facing p. 3 



A CAMERA CRUSADE 




Map showing route followed by the author. It is indicated by the black line starting at Joppa 



A CAMERA CRUSADE 

THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 

THE SOUTH 

AFTER many days we arrived off the coast of Palestine 
and came to anchor near Joppa. What thoughts arose in our 
minds as we gazed upon that land for the first time; the 
Promised Land, that land that has been the great passageway 
from south to north and from east to west, the little land 
that has produced the three great living religions of the world, 
the Holy Land. 

There being no harbor, it is necessary to land in small 
boats, and no landing at all is possible in rough weather. 

One of the remarkable features of the whole coast line of 
Palestine is the utter lack of harbors. For this reason the 
land was never attacked by sea. Not long after our arrival 
quite a fleet of row-boats, propelled by motley crews, swarmed 
about our vessel in utter disorder, and we received our first 
impressions of the natives of the land of the present day; it 
seemed as though Bedlam was let loose. One must expect to 
find this state of things in every Turkish port; no discipline, 
no order, wild gesticulations, and loud, yelling voices unpleas- 
ant to the ear, impudent demands for tips or "bakshish," and 
generally rough treatment. Passing through the custom-house, 
we walked through a dirty street to a hotel. 

3 



4 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

':V .V'lxKj 
After .making, all, arrangements with a dragoman, or head 

guide, I' w'a'rid-e'red 1 " to : die- "house of one Simon, a tanner,'' 
climbed upon the roof, and there for the first time saw a real 
Oriental roof, made to live on as well as under. 

In the centre of it was a square opening, large enough to 
let down "the bed wherein the sick of the palsy lay," which 
actually happened in Capernaum. (Mark ii, 4.) 

From the roof there was a fine view of the rocky shore 
where the cedars of Lebanon were landed for the building of 
the temple at Jerusalem. Legend states that the prophet 
Jonah started on his remarkable voyage from one of these 
rocks, and near by are shown some bones of a gigantic sea 
animal. 

Upon another rock are some chains with which (according 
to legend) Andromeda was bound till rescued from the sea 
monster by Perseus. 

In the market-place were many interesting scenes of Ori- 
ental flavor, some of which indicated the abject condition of 
womanhood under Islam rule. 

One handsome fellow in bright-colored costume was ped- 
dling Syrian bread, which looked good but tasted like very 
sour corn-bread spread over with ripe Roquefort cheese; it 
was awful, but after two weeks in the Holy Land I could eat 
things worse than that. This bread seemed to be typical of 
the condition of the land to-day, or rather of the Christian 
religion as evinced there to-day by many of the various 
church sects of which I shall speak again. 

Joppa was anciently a Phoenician colony in the land of the 
Philistines. Now it has become an important place on ac- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 5 

count of the great number of pilgrims who arrive there every 
year. It is interesting to the traveller because of the pure 
Semitic types to be seen for the first time. 

From Joppa lead three great roads, or highways; one to 
Nabulus (Shechem), another to Gaza, and the third to Jeru- 
salem. 

For quite a distance the Jerusalem road leads through the 
famous orange groves of Joppa into the plain of Sharon, the 
Hebrew name for the plain between Carmel and Joppa. In 
the early spring the ground is brilliant with the blossoms of 
the red anemone, the "Rose of Sharon." 

One of the striking features of the plain is the tower of 
Ramleh, or the tower of Omayyad khalif Suleiman (A. D. 716), 
from the top of which is a charming view toward Lydda, which 
is mentioned in a very early period in connection with the 
legend of St. George. Mohammed declared that at the last 
day Christ would slay Antichrist at the gate of Lydda. This 
is simply a distorted version of the story of St. George and the 
dragon. The whole Maritime Plain presents a scene of quiet 
beauty, a marked contrast to the inhospitable coast which 
always was considered the western boundary, and the sea, 
a barrier instead of a highway. This plain, rising in gentle 
undulations toward the Shephelah, now so peaceful and fruit- 
ful, has ever been one of the most famous war-paths of the 
world, through which Thothmes, Rameses, Sennacherib, Cam- 
byses, Alexander, Pompey, Titus, Saladin, Napoleon, and many 
other great generals have led their armies. Truly this Mari- 
time Plain may be likened to a bridge between Asia and Africa. 
From their hills the Jews could watch all the spectacle of war 



6 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

between them and the sea years before Jerusalem herself was 
threatened. (Isa. v, 26.) 

Lydda, or Lod, was one of the most westerly settlements 
of the Jews after the exile, for there were no smiths in Israel; 
so the Hebrews came down to the Philistine border to get 
their ploughshares and mattocks sharpened. (I Sam. xiii, 19.) 

From Ramleh we journeyed up through the vale of Ajalon 
(Josh, x, 12) toward Jerusalem, and turned south toward 
Hebron. On the way we passed the valley of Eshcol, 
from which the spies sent out by Moses brought a cluster 
of grapes, and from the appearance of vines growing there 
to-day one might imagine they dated back to the time of 
Moses. 

Near Hebron we camped under the shade of an ancient 
oak known as Abraham's Oak, in the plains of Mamre so 
closely connected with Abraham's life. 

Hebron, a city older than Zoan, is now occupied by the 
most fanatical and detestable specimens of Mussulmans I 
have ever come in contact with. 

Now no Christian dog is permitted to enter the mosque 
with two minarets, built over the double cavern of Machpelah, 
the burial-place purchased by Abraham from Ephron, the 
Hittite, when Sarah died. Isaac and Jacob are said to be 
buried here also. Of the many traditions which cling to the 
vicinity of Hebron, two are most interesting which localize 
the creation and the death of Adam here. 

So many things actually happened at Hebron, or very near 
it, that one may entirely discard all legends and traditions and 
be satisfied with historical facts. After the many references 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 7 

to Abraham and his family, we find that the city was de- 
stroyed by Joshua and became the chief city of the tribe of 
Caleb. David spent a long time in this vicinity, and after 
Saul's death he ruled over Judah from Hebron for seven and 
a half years. 

"When Abner was returned to Hebron, Joab took him 
aside in the gate to speak with him quietly, and smote him 
there under the fifth rib, that he died, for the blood of Asahel 
his brother." 

And David caused the murderers of Ishbosheth, the son 
of Saul, to be hanged by the pool of Hebron. 

During the Muslim period the town was still important not 
only on account of its commerce, but also as a sacred place, 
owing to its connection with Abraham, who was represented 
by Mohammed as a great prophet, and to this day the Arabs 
call it "El-Khalil," or the town of the "friend of God." 

Being repelled in every way by the fanatical inhabitants, 
we were glad to leave the town and turn northward toward 
Bethlehem. On the way we passed the pools known as Solo- 
mon's Pools, the upper of which is best preserved. We camped 
on a hill overlooking the Shepherd's Village, where the shep- 
herds "watched their flocks" just below Bethlehem, the place 
of bread, the city of David. 

It was well that we did not enter Bethlehem that evening, 
for as twilight waned we sat on the ground like the shepherds 
of old and gazed toward that sacred spot where "she brought 
forth her first-born son, and wrapped him in swaddling- 
clothes, and laid him in a manger, because there was no room 
for them in the inn." "And they shall call his name Em- 



8 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

manuel, which being interpreted is, God with us;" "and he 
called his name JESUS." 

Until very late we sat meditating, not speaking to one 
another, overwhelmed with the consciousness of being near 
the place where the most momentous prophecy was fulfilled. 

The next morning I stood before the low, narrow entrance 
to the Church of the Nativity, or the Church of St. Mary, per- 
haps the oldest Christian church in the world, and wondered 
why the great doorways had been walled up with heavy 
masonry. I soon learned that this was doner to prevent the 
Mohammedan soldiers from driving their horses into the 
church and using it as a stable. 

The exterior of the church is in appearance very ancient 
and not at all imposing. The interior, divided into three parts, 
one belonging to the Greeks, another to the Latins, and the 
third to the Armenians, is a great surprise and is very impres- 
sive. The church is built over the traditional birthplace of 
Jesus Christ. In the crypt is the manger, entirely different 
from those depicted by great painters, and yet, with all the 
lamps and decorations removed, it is exactly like many a man- 
ger I saw in actual use in the land. 

Not one of the paintings of the Nativity that I have seen 
gives the slightest idea of a Syrian manger. Perhaps that by 
Murillo, in Berlin, or "The Holy Night," by Correggio, in 
Dresden, are the most beautiful, though not correct. 

Whether this traditional manger is the exact spot where 
the Saviour was born matters little to me. If this is not the 
place, it must have been very near by; far above this little 
matter of doubt is the great fact, "Fear not: for, behold, I 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 9 

bring you tidings of great joy. " . . . " For unto us a child is 
born, unto us a son is given: and the government shall be 
upon his shoulders: and his name shall be called Wonderful, 
Counsellor, the Mighty God, the Everlasting Father, the 
Prince of Peace." 

It is of more than passing interest to note that the " Bread 
of Life" was born in Bethlehem, which in Hebrew means the 
place of bread. 

From the most ancient times this region in the immediate 
vicinity of Bethlehem has presented a marked contrast to the 
surrounding wilderness, for that is what most of Judea is. 
Around the town are many fertile fields apparently fenced in 
by stone walls, but these are simply formed by the stones 
picked out of the fields themselves. The finest are the " Fields 
of Boaz, " just below the city toward the Dead Sea. Here is 
the scene of the beautiful idyl of Ruth. Even to this day the 
gleaners follow the reapers who often "let fall also some of 
the handfuls," for the method of reaping has not changed 
since the time of Moses. After the reaping comes the thresh- 
ing, which is done on the old-fashioned threshing-floor. 

As we journeyed from Bethlehem toward the Dead Sea, I 
saw two shepherds leading their flocks into green pastures. 
This was such a beautiful illustration of the Twenty-third 
Psalm that I talked with the shepherds and asked one of them 
to go around to the other side of the hill and then call his 
sheep. He did so, giving a peculiar call "Br-Br-Br-Br Ha- 
Ha-Ha-Ha!!!" Instantly the sheep looked up, began to bleat, 
and ran toward him they knew his voice. Then I tried to 
imitate the shepherd; the sheep looked up, but they would 



10 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

not follow; they ran from me. "And a stranger will they 
not follow, but will flee from him: for they know not the 
voice of strangers." 

Hanging from the arm of one of the shepherds was a curious 
leathern bag made from the whole skin of a kid. In it were 
several round stones and a sling made of camel's hair. When 
a sheep wanders too far away the shepherd puts a stone in 
the sling and casts it cleverly so that it strikes the ground 
directly in front of the wandering sheep, causing it to look up 
and so notice that it has gone astray "All" we like sheep 
have gone astray: we have turned every one to his own 
way." 

This took me back to the time of David (I Sam. xvii, 40) : 
"And he took his staff in his hand, and chose him five smooth 
stones out of the brook and put them in a shepherd's bag 
which he had, even in a scrip; and his sling was in his hand: 
and he drew near the Philistine." This seemed to me but 
as yesterday, for I was living amid customs that have not 
changed in thousands of years. Is He not "the same yester- 
day, and to-day, and forever"? 

When a shepherd goes out alone he invariably carries with 
him his pipes, made of reeds, upon which he plays the weirdest 
melodies. Strange as it may seem, this music keeps the shep- 
herd from becoming crazed by solitude. 

After leaving the shepherds we began to penetrate the 
wilderness in earnest. Palestine is not an easyland to journey 
through on account of the many valleys, or wadys. One of the 
deepest and almost impossible to cross is the valley of the 
brook Kidron which flows down from Jerusalem to the Dead 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 11 

Sea. In a remote part of this valley is situated the monastery 
of Mar Saba belonging to Greek priests. In the fifth century 
a settlement of monks was founded here by St. Euthuymius. 
His pupil Sabas became famous for his sanctity and founded 
the order of Sabaites; hence the name. 

As we approached the region near the Dead Sea the wil- 
derness became still more desolate, and this desolation extends 
from the Dead Sea up to within an hour or two of Hebron, 
Bethlehem, and Jerusalem; so that it is easy to realize the 
effect upon the ancient natives of Judea, judging by that upon 
the casual visitor an overpowering sense of how narrow the 
border line is between life and death, a realization of the power 
of the Almighty who can make contiguous regions so opposite 
in character. The prophets Amos and Jeremiah both felt the 
fascination of the desert and painted many a word picture of 
the wrath of God or of his divine grace. 

The story of Saul's hunt after David and the latter's nar- 
row escapes becomes very vivid to one traversing these valleys, 
all alike, where large parties of men might encamp near each 
other without being aware of it. In addition to this wilderness 
being a refuge for fugitives, we must remember that it was 
where John the Baptist was prepared for his mission, and it 
was here that our Lord suffered his temptation. 

All the way from Bethlehem the route seemed to be de- 
scending until we caught a glimpse of the Dead Sea far below 
us; then we realized that we were approaching that remark- 
able sink thirteen hundred feet below the level of the Mediter- 
ranean Sea and thirty-eight hundred feet below the altitude 
of Bethlehem. 



12 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

Although it was March, we began to suffer from the intense 
heat. Still we wound our way around barren hills until we 
stood on the shore of the Dead Sea, the water of which is so 
heavily impregnated with salt and other chemicals that no 
fish can live in it. So dense is this water that it is almost 
impossible to swim in it; the body floats on the surface as 
if it were cork. 

As we gazed in every direction through the peculiar haze 
ever present in this part of the Jordan Valley, we saw no signs 
of life; everywhere evidences of death and destruction. Of 
the cities that once thrived in this awful hollow, not a trace 
is left. Though Sodom and Gomorrah were destroyed cen- 
turies ago, the glare of that catastrophe is still terrible in the 
symbolism used by the prophets and our Lord. 

From the place where the river Jordan flows into the Dead 
Sea, it takes about an hour to ride to the Jordan ford. Pil- 
grims are attracted to this spot because of its association with 
John the Baptist and the baptism of Christ. 

The Jordan, as a river, was a great disappointment to me, 
for it is not even picturesque. The water is turbid and warm 
and hardly fit to drink on account of its salinity. The banks 
are covered with a rank growth of reeds, thorn bushes, and 
stunted trees which plainly show the effects of the spring fresh- 
ets, and the current is very swift, rushing along as if enraged 
at being compelled to flow into the Salt Sea. 

From the Sea or Lake of Galilee (six hundred and eighty 
feet minus) to the Dead Sea (thirteen hundred feet minus) is 
a distance of about sixty-five miles; therefore the descent is 
nearly ten feet to the mile, hence its name Jordan, the Down- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 13 

comer. The difficulty of fording it, or of swimming across it 
on account of the whirling currents, added to the other phys- 
ical features mentioned, simply emphasizes the idea of separa- 
tion; it surely was a dividing line. 

From the time when the Israelites crossed the river and 
entered the promised land down to the moment when Elijah 
smote the waters and crossed over, the river was a bound- 
ary. When Elisha smote the waters with the mantle of 
Elijah and returned to the land, the sons of the prophets said: 
'The spirit of Elijah doth rest on Elisha! And they came to 
meet him, and bowed themselves to the ground before him." 
This was the beginning of a new dispensation, the beginning 
of prophecy. The instrument of the Most High was to be 
not the state, not the laws, not even the church, but the spirit 
of one man. 

Elisha was the first to use the river for a sacramental 
purpose; he said to Naaman the leper, "Go wash in Jordan 
seven times . . . and thou shalt be clean." Was not Israel's 
greatest river consecrated by these two acts most sym- 
bolic of religion the washing by water and the gift of the 
Spirit? 

Is it not more than passing strange that John, in this very 
place, called upon Israel to wash and be clean; and that where 
Elijah bequeathed his spirit to Elisha before he departed, John 
met his successor of whom he said, "There cometh He that 
is mightier than I after me, the latchet of whose shoes I am 
not worthy to stoop down and unloose. I indeed have bap- 
tized you with water, but He shall baptize you with the Holy 
Ghost"? 



i 4 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

And so what was never a great Jewish river has become 
a very great Christian one. 

From the Jordan ford we turned north-west toward Jeri- 
cho. It was very hot and so we were compelled to ride slowly, 
when suddenly our horses pricked up their ears, began to neigh, 
and increased their speed until we came to a little stream of 
living water where the horses plunged in and drank. Upon 
discovering that the water was fit to drink, I fell prone on my 
face and drank till I could drink no more. For nearly a week 
I had tasted nothing but stale water purchased in Joppa. At 
last I understood what the Psalmist meant when he said, "As 
the hart panteth after the water brooks, so panteth my soul 
after thee, O God." 

We pitched our tents near the source of this little brook, 
at the foot of the Judean hills, where the natives have con- 
structed a small pool called the Sultan's Spring. Christians 
call it Elisha's Spring, because it is believed to be the spring 
into which he cast the salt and said, "Thus saith the Lord, I 
have healed these waters; there shall not be from thence any 
more death or barren land." 

Near by are remains of a Roman road and a scanty ruin 
said to be the house of Rahab who saved the two men sent by 
Joshua to spy secretly. (Josh, ii.) West of the camp was a very 
high mountain which some say is the Mount of Temptation. 

Early in the morning we turned our faces toward Jerusa- 
lem and began to ascend by the famous Jericho road. I have 
no doubt that our Lord and his disciples made use of this 
highway when "He steadfastly set his face to go to Jerusa- 
lem." (Luke ix, 51.) 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 15 

On the way we passed by the ruins of an inn said to be the 
scene of the parable of the good Samaritan who helped the 
man who fell among thieves. I have no doubt of the truth of 
the latter assertion, for the thieves' descendants are there to- 
day. While the rest of the party went on, I climbed up one 
of the hills by the side of the road so that I could look down 
into the valley of the brook Cherith (I Kings xvii) where 
Elijah hid himself from Jezebel. 

About half-way to Jerusalem we passed a poor little spring, 
the only one on the way, called the Apostle's Spring, near 
which were several hundreds of Russian pilgrims on their way 
to be baptized in the Jordan. They had stopped for rest and 
their mid-day meal, after which they arose and sang a thrilling 
chant of thanksgiving. Never have I been so moved by any 
choir or chorus in my own land. Their luncheon consisted of 
a crust of bread and a little tea. Weary and footsore, they 
slowly went on their way steadfastly toward the Jordan. 
Many were nearing the horizon of life, having toiled for many 
years to save enough to make this pilgrimage. In spite of 
everything there was a look upon their faces that I shall 
never forget. I felt almost ashamed to be on horseback. 

This highway through the wilderness is very dreary, and 
the reflection of the sun's rays from the white limestone for- 
mation is almost unbearable. There is no shelter from the 
heat of the day, no tree, and only here and there a tuft of grass 
upon which the goats and sheep exist. 

Oh! for the shade of a tree only for a little while! As this 
thought or prayer possessed me I turned, and before my eyes 
was a beautiful illustration of "The shadow of a great rock 



16 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

in a weary land." There before me were little kids and lambs 
resting in the shadow of a great rock. So comfortable were 
they, nestled together in that refreshing shadow, I had not 
the heart to drive them away, for I was thinking of the prophet 
Isaiah's words, "For thou hast been a strength to the poor, a 
strength to the needy in his distress, a refuge from the storm, 
a shadow from the heat." Surely, his mercy endureth forever. 

As I stood near this great rock and gazed over Judea to- 
ward the Jordan I asked myself if the land was always as it 
is to-day a land of stone, almost waterless, most of it tree- 
less, here and there small patches where the vine might grow, 
no fields, except around Bethlehem, where grain would thrive, 
no farming as we understand it, nothing but here and there 
wandering shepherds searching for green pastures for their 
flocks? 

Jeremiah answered my question when he said (xxxiii, 10, 
12, 13), "Thus saith the Lord of Hosts; again in this place 
which is desolate without man and without beast, and in all 
the cities thereof, shall be an habitation of shepherds causing 
their flocks to lie down." 

"In the cities of the mountains, in the cities of the vale, 
and in the cities of the south, and in the land of Benjamin, and 
in the places about Jerusalem, and in the cities of Judah, 
shall the flocks pass again under the hands of him that tell- 
eth them, saith the Lord." 

Judah was destined to be pastoral, in Judah the Good 
Shepherd was born, in Judah the Good Shepherd gave his 
life for the sheep. (John x, n, 15.) 

"All we like sheep have gone astray; we have turned every 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 17 

one to his own way; and the Lord hath laid on him the in- 
iquity of us all." (Isa. liii, 6.) 

"I have blotted out as a thick cloud, thy transgressions, 
and as a cloud, thy sins: return to me; for I have redeemed 
thee." (Isa. xliv, 22.) 

Hot and weary, we slowly followed the Jericho road until 
we reached the little town of Bethany where Jesus often 
lodged; where he was anointed by Mary with the precious 
ointment; where he raised Lazarus from the dead; and 
where the ascension took place. The supposed ruins of the 
house of Mary and her sister Martha are still shown, and 
directly behind is a little mosque with a small dome, built 
by the Mohammedans over the tomb of Lazarus, for they 
regard him as a saint. There is nothing to prove that these 
two sites are genuine, nor is anything certain known regard- 
ing the places here visited by Christ. The town is situated 
on a hill, somewhat like Bethlehem, and presents a pleasing 
contrast to the desolate environs on account of the olive and 
fig trees which seem to thrive here as they used to in the time 
of Christ. (Matt, xxi, 19.) 

As we left Bethany I saw two women at a mill grinding 
together just as Christ had said, "Two women shall be grind- 
ing together; the one shall be taken, and the other left." 
(Luke xvii, 35.) 

Between Bethany and Jerusalem rises the Mount of 
Olives to an altitude of over two thousand seven hundred 
feet. It is stony and barren like most of the hills around 
Jerusalem, but the slopes are partially cultivated and there 
are still a few olive trees growing upon it. 



i8 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

Ezekiel and Zechariah both mentioned the Mount of 
Olives, and Matthew, Mark, and Luke often refer to it as a 
place frequented by Christ. 

Quite a number of buildings have been erected upon the 
mount by the various religious sects, each claiming to have 
the true location of places associated with Christ during his 
sojourn in and near Jerusalem. So bitterly do the followers 
of the different Christian churches dispute about these and 
other things that they often come to blows. 

While I was in the Holy Land, the priests of one church 
got into an altercation with those of another and fought each 
other with the brass-bound books of the church. Two were 
killed and many were seriously injured in a building conse- 
crated to the worship of him who said, " By this shall all men 
know that ye are my disciples, if ye have love one to another." 

The ignominy of this disgraceful incident was increased 
by the fact that Mohammedan soldiers were summoned to 
quell the disturbance. Now I know at least one reason why 
Mohammedans despise Christians. "Thou makest us a re- 
proach to our neighbors, a scorn and a derision to them that 
are round about us." (Psalms xliv, 13.) 

Had it not been for one of my favorite verses in the Bible, 
I should have then and there given up my camera crusade 
and my search for the truth in the Holy Land. "Let not 
your heart be troubled: ye believe in God, believe also in me." 

The shock was so great, however, that I did not then 
go into Jerusalem; I looked over the city from the Mount 
of Olives, north-west toward Mizpah in the distance, and 
started north toward Samaria. 



THE NORTH 

AFTER a ride of about four hours we arrived at Bethel, 
one of the ancient sanctuaries of Israel and the lower boun- 
dary of Samaria. Here it was that Jacob had his wonderful 
vision, "and he called the name of that place Bethel: but 
the name of that city was called Luz at first." 

Bethel means God's house. Of the ancient city nothing 
is left; the site of it is now occupied by a few stone hovels 
that shelter a disreputable gang of thieves. (Jer. vii, n.) 
This is very much like the temple at Jerusalem in the time 
of Christ: "My house shall be called the house of prayer; 
but ye have made it a den of thieves." (Matt, xxi, 13.) 

The great highway leading northward from Jerusalem to 
Samaria is the worst specimen of a road I have ever seen. 
Now I know why there were no chariots in Judea with the 
exception of those on two funereal occasions: first, when his 
servants carried Ahaziah in a chariot to Jerusalem from the 
plain of Megiddo; and, secondly, when Josiah was carried 
back to the same city. (II Kings ix, 28; II Chron. xxxv, 24.) 

When people came down from Galilee or Samaria, they 
generally went down the Jordan valley and then took the 
Jericho road up to Jerusalem. 

Not far north of Bethel there is a splendid view of the 
stony hills and fertile valleys of Samaria. Upon some of the 

high places or hills were little villages, almost indistinguish- 

19 



20 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

able, because the small houses were built of the same kind of 
stone so plentiful everywhere. 

One never sees farm-houses scattered over the country 
as in other lands; they are always grouped close together on 
a high place as in ancient times. For as of old, even to this 
day, bands of Arab marauders swoop down upon these val- 
leys, like a hawk upon its prey without warning, and they 
leave nothing of any value after them. 

Upon one of the hills to the right were some large hewn 
stones; these indicated the site of Shiloh, the home of Eli 
and of the boy Samuel, the place where the whole congre- 
gation of the children of Israel assembled together and set up 
the tabernacle of the congregation. 

The story of the capture of the Ark of the Covenant by 
the Philistines and its subsequent return to Shiloh is one of 
the most dramatic descriptions in the Bible. (I Sam. iv, v, 
vi, vii.) 

It is not known when the destruction of Shiloh took place, 
although it is referred to in Jer. vii, 12, 14, and xxvi, 6. 

Late in the afternoon, after riding all day through narrow, 
winding valleys, we entered a beautiful broad valley which is 
guarded by the great Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal. The 
view was more impressive than any we had yet seen, quite in 
keeping with the entrance of the Israelites into the promised 
land and the great events which took place on and near these 
two mountains. 

Sichem, or Shechem, the first capital of the land, and now 
the capital of the province, is situated in the pass between 
Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim. Abraham and Jacob came 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 21 

at once to Sichem on their entrance into the promised land. 
Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim together were the scene of 
the great inaugural service by all Israel on taking possession 
of the country. 

The episode of Abimelech occurred at Shechem, and here 
was held the national assembly which resulted in the separa- 
tion of the northern tribes from the southern. Jeroboam made 
Shechem his residence, while Rehoboam "made speed to get 
him up to his chariot, to flee to Jerusalem." To make the sep- 
aration more complete and to prevent his people from going 
to Jerusalem to worship, Jeroboam set up a golden image in 
Dan and another in Bethel. 

The environs of Shechem are very fertile and there are 
copious springs, but the water is not pleasant to drink be- 
cause it contains so much carbonate of lime in solution. Many 
of these springs become exhausted during the summer months. 

A few of the descendants of the ancient Samaritans still 
dwell here, and in their synagogue they jealously guard a very 
old codex of the Pentateuch. Although all these things are 
intensely interesting, they are eclipsed by a "parcel of ground 
that Jacob gave to his son Joseph. Now Jacob's well was 
there." (John iv, 5, 6; Gen. xxxiii, 19.) 

From the eastern slope of Mount Ebal there is a magnifi- 
cent view of Mount Gerizim and the valley to the south. Im- 
mediately below Mount Ebal lies the little village of Ain Askar, 
or Sychar, while a little farther on is "a parcel of ground" 
surrounded by a stone wall, built by the Greeks who now own 
this property. Within the enclosure is the ruin of a very old 
church, built many centuries ago, directly over Jacob's well. 



22 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

There is not the shadow of a doubt about this being the well. 
Jews, Christians, and Muslims all agree that it is the well of 
Jacob. 

In order to reach this sacred spot, it is necessary to climb 
down some steep steps into a small chapel which was built 
directly over the well itself. As I entered I felt, as I did in no 
other place in the Holy Land, that I was in a holy place; for 
this was the well upon which Jesus sat, being wearied with his 
journey, and there came a woman of Samaria to draw water. 
"Jesus saith unto her, Give me to drink." After a wonderful 
conversation, full of spiritual meaning, the woman said, "I 
know that Messias cometh, which is called Christ: when he is 
come, he will tell us all things." 

"Jesus saith unto her, I that speak unto thee am He." 
(John iv, 3-26.) 

Long ago when Moses turned aside to see why the bush 
was not burnt, God called to him and said, "Draw not nigh 
hither; put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place 
whereon thou standest is holy ground." 

"Moreover he said, I am the God of thy father, the God 
of Abraham, the God of Isaac, and the God of Jacob. And 
Moses hid his face; for he was afraid to look upon God." 
(Ex. iii, 3-6.) 

"And God said unto Moses, I AM THAT I AM." (Ex. iii, 14.) 

"Jesus said unto them, Verily, verily, I say unto you, Be- 
fore Abraham was, I am." (John viii, 58.) "I am Alpha 
and Omega. The beginning and the end, saith the Lord 
which is, and which was, and which is to come, the Almighty." 
(Rev. i, 8.) 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 23 

Overwhelmed with emotions that surpass description, I 
slowly left the well of Jacob. "Whosoever drinketh of the 
water that I shall give him shall never thirst; but the water 
that I shall give him shall be in him a well of water springing 
up into everlasting life." (John iv, 14.) 

"And whosoever will, let him take the water of life freely." 
(Rev. xxii, 17.) 

That curbstone over Jacob's well was my "Ebenezer"; 
for there the Lord helped me. There, at that stone, came to 
me the "Peace of God which passeth all understanding." 

As the shepherd puts a stone in his sling and casts it at 
a wandering sheep, as I have already mentioned, so it seems 
to me God Almighty often throws a stone that it may cause 
the wanderer to look up. "For whom the Lord loveth he 
chasteneth." (Heb. xii, 6.) 

"Blessed is the man whom thou chasteneth, Lord, and 
teachest him out of thy law." (Psalm xciv, 12.) 

Only a short distance from the well is the village of Sychar, 
where a Samaritan woman lived who went to the well to 
draw water. I walked through the village and chanced to 
see a Samaritan woman with a water jar on her head about 
to go to draw water. 

My camera caught a picture that will live with me for- 
ever, a woman of Samaria, carrying her little child in her 
bosom, standing in a doorway which had been sprinkled 
with the blood of a lamb for it was at the time of the feast 
of the Passover "There cometh a woman of Samaria to 
draw water." It was early in the morning that she came out 
of the door to go and draw water, quite in keeping with the 



24 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

old law of Moses: "Draw out and take you a lamb accord- 
ing to your families, and kill the passover." 

"And ye shall take a bunch of hyssop, and dip it in the 
blood that is in the bason, and strike the lintel and the two 
side-posts with the blood that is in the bason; and none of 
you shall go out at the door of his house until the morning." 
(Ex. xii, 21, 22.) 

So even to this day do they keep this, the law of the old 
covenant. 

"Behold, the days come, saith the Lord, "that I will make 
a new covenant with the house of Israel and with the house 
of Judah: not according to the covenant that I made with 
their fathers in the day that I took them by the hand to bring 
them out of the land of Egypt." (Jer. xxxi, 31, 32.) 

"And as they were eating, Jesus took bread, and blessed 
it, and brake it, and gave it to the disciples and said, Take, 
eat; this is my body." 

"And he took the cup and gave thanks, and gave it to 
them, saying, Drink ye all of it; For this is my blood of the 
new testament, which is shed for many for the remission of 
sins." (Matt, xxvi, 26, 27, 28.) 

"Behold the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sin 
of the world." (John i, 29.) 

" Blessing, and honour, and glory, and power, be unto 
him that sitteth upon the throne, and unto the Lamb for ever 
and ever." (Rev. v, 13.) 

After reading the fifty-third chapter of Isaiah, I turned 
my face northward toward Sebaste, the city of Samaria, built 
upon a hill like most of the fortresses of Samaria. As we ap- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 25 

preached the hill upon which the modern town of Sebaste is 
situated, wide and fertile valleys stretched out in every 
direction before us. This is the striking feature of Samaria, 
its openness. 

The landscape was refreshing after the desolate hills and 
dales of Judea. 

The history of this northern part of Israel is extremely 
interesting, although it can hardly be looked upon as the Holy 
Land in the same sense as Judea or Galilee. The patriarchs 
came here first, and then made their homes in Hebron; the 
earliest sanctuaries of Israel were here, but Jerusalem be- 
came the centre of church and state. At first the prophets 
and heroes of the north shone resplendent, but those of Judah 
endured and the kingship remained with Judah. 

There is nothing in all Samaria that appeals to the pil- 
grim of to-day like the place where Jesus rested as he went 
through it, and he passed through it only of necessity. (John 
iv, 4.) 

Omri bought the hill Samaria of Shemer for two talents 
of silver, about $3,285, equal to ten times that amount to- 
day in purchasing power. 

And he called the name of the city which he built after 
the name of Shemer, the owner of the hill, Shomeron, which 
is the Hebrew for Samaria. 

The first capital of Israel was Tirzah, a little to the north- 
east of Shechem. Samaria was the second capital and the 
scene of many events under the kings. It was captured by 
the Syrians, also by the Assyrians, and rebuilt by Herod the 
Great, who named the city Sebaste (Augusta) in honor of 



26 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

Augustus. The only remains which pertain to his time are 
a row of columns which probably stood near the temple, 
erected in honor of the Emperor. 

According to tradition, John the Baptist was beheaded 
here, but Josephus says that this occurred at Machaerus 
(Mukaur), a fortified town east of the Dead Sea, where the 
unhappy survivors of the destruction of Jerusalem fled for 
refuge. 

North of Sebaste the valleys widen and finally become 
great plains such as Megiddo (Esdraelon) and Jezreel, which 
extend from the sea on the west to the Jordan. This is the 
reason why few invaders were successfully resisted. 

The most interesting effect of this openness of Samaria 
is the use of the chariot, as related in the Old Testament. 
Ahab rode in his chariot from Carmel to Jezreel (I Kings 
xvii, 44) ; his chariot was his funeral car from Ramoth-Gilead 
to Samaria (I Kings xxii, 29). Jehu rode in a chariot to Jez- 
reel, and the watchman said to Joram, "The driving is like 
the driving of Jehu, the son of Nimshi; for he driveth furiously" 
(II Kings ix, 16); Jehu pursued Ahaziah, the son of Ahab, 
and after Ahaziah's death, his servants carried his body in a 
chariot to Jerusalem (II Kings ix, 27, 28) ; Jehu rode from 
Jezreel to Samaria (Sebaste) and tooh up Jehonadab into his 
chariot and boastfully said, "Come with me and see my 
zeal for the Lord"; and then Naaman made the long drive 
from Damascus to the house of Elisha in Samaria, and then 
rode all the way back again (II Kings v); the King of Syria 
sent a great host with horses and chariots to surround Dothan 
in order to capture Elisha. (II Kings vi, 13 ff.) 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 27 

If one reads these accounts carefully, the cause of the fall 
and destruction of open Samaria can readily be discerned. 

About two hours north of Sebaste we passed the site of 
Dothan where Joseph's brethren conspired against him to 
slay him (Gen. xxxvii, 15), and we camped near the town 
of Jenin (Engannin), situated on the edge of the plain of 
Jezreel, the Greek name of which is Esdraelon, while in 
the Old Testament it is Megiddo. This plain was the 
battle-field of the great empires of the world at one time 
or another, but always the prey and pasture of the wild 
bands of Arabs who came every spring as regularly as the 
seasons, and a few years ago the peasants got rid of these 
Arab marauders, only to be bought up by rich Greeks from 
Beyrout. 

Thus we see the "mutability, the irrevocable lot, of man 
and all his works." (Irving.) 

As we entered the plain of Jezreel we met a caravan laden 
with goods from the Far East. This made us realize that we 
were approaching the place where the great highways con- 
necting the east and the west, the south and the north 
crossed each other. 

Upon the highest point of the plain stands the miserable 
village of Zerin, the ancient Jezreel, a town of Issachar, the 
son of Jacob and Leah. When Jacob called his sons together 
to tell them what was to befall them, he said of this one: 
"Issachar is a strong ass couching down between two bur- 
dens: and he saw that rest was good, and the land that it 
was pleasant; and bowed his shoulder to bear, and became a 
servant unto tribute." (Gen. xlix, 14, 15.) 



28 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

This is one of the many passages in the Bible so hard to 
understand because we have not the customs nor the environ- 
ment necessary to understand fully the figurative language 
used in the East even to this day. It means that this plain 
is stretched out between the hills just as an ass stretches him- 
self out whenever he gets the opportunity to take a rest; and, 
moreover, it is very fertile and therefore pleasant to one ac- 
customed to the stony hills or sheepfolds; but it must be paid 
for by hard work and by paying tribute as a vassal. That 
has been the history of this plain. 

Jezreel was the home of the infamous Jezebel, from whom 
Elijah fled in terror. 

The other references given in connection with the chariots 
will quite suffice the reader. 

Near Jezreel we saw some Arabs ploughing the rich soil 
with ploughs made after the ancient pattern, simply the* 
curved stump of a small tree shod with a point of iron. 
Behind the plough walks the ploughman, carrying in one 
hand a long stick with a sharp point for the purpose of 
pricking the oxen to make them work, just as we use a whip 
upon a lazy animal to-day. It would certainly be hard for 
them to "kick against the pricks." This is used figuratively 
in Acts ix, 5; v, 39, and vii, 51. 

The plain of Jezreel descends gradually to the Jordan 
where there are several fords, one of which Naaman must 
have used when he came from Damascus to seek the prophet 
Elisha in the hope of being cured of his leprosy. Perhaps the 
very one used as an illustration is where he washed in the 
Jordan seven times and was healed. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 29 

Toward the east the plain gradually rises until it culmi- 
nates in the lofty ridge of Mount Carmel close by the sea. In 
the north rises Mount Tabor like a great round dome. These 
two mountains are frequently used in the Scriptures as sym- 
bols of strength or certainty. From the earliest times Mount 
Carmel was used as a sanctuary; there was an altar to Baal, 
and likewise one to Jehovah, which was broken down. The 
contest which took place here between the prophets of Baal 
and the prophet of the Lord is recorded in the most dramatic 
manner in I Kings xviii. 

North of the great plain lies the province of Galilee about 
which hover so many holy memories. 

As we approached Nazareth we crossed the great caravan 
route from Egypt to Damascus and found ourselves at the 
very cross-roads of this part of the world. Nazareth is situ- 
ated in a kind of basin surrounded on the north by hills. From 
the town itself there is no view at all, but from the tops of the 
hills the views in every direction are wonderful. To the south 
Esdraelon lies before you so rich in important events, and then 
Mount Carmel and the place of Elisha's sacrifice; to the east 
the valley of the Jordan and the range of Gilead; to the 
west the Great Sea with the ships of Tarshish; to the north 
a landscape of hills and dales more fertile and better watered 
than any other section of Palestine; to this add the great 
routes which pass through or near by Nazareth and you will 
no longer wonder why the boy Jesus was brought up here. 
The view from the hills is like a map of Old Testament his- 
tory, while over these roads passed all the nations of the earth, 
bringing news and gossip from everywhere just as to-day. 



30 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

So Nazareth was not an obscure, secluded village; it was the 
very opposite, and he grew up under these conditions, "in 
all points tempted like as we are, yet without sin." I am con- 
vinced that he was in this land but not of it. 

In the town there is but one spring or fountain, as it is 
called in that land, where I have no doubt Mary the mother 
of Jesus used to go to draw water just as the women of Naz- 
areth do to this day. The natives call it the Well of Mary. 
The tiled roofs of the modern town show the Prankish or 
European invasion of Nazareth. 

The first town we saw after leaving Nazareth was Cana of 
Galilee, where the first miracle that is recorded was performed, 
the changing of the water into wine at a wedding feast. 

After a pleasant ride over a road that wound its way 
around and over many hills, we came to the "high mountain" 
named the Mount of the Beatitudes, where probably the 
Sermon on the Mount was preached to the multitude. Stand- 
ing on this mount, my voice was easily heard by my friends 
scattered about the fields below. While the acoustics of this 
place would permit many to hear his wonderful sermon, only 
those heard who had ears to hear. 

To the east, far below this mount, lay the glittering blue- 
Lake of Galilee in the deep valley of the Jordan, at this point 
six hundred and eighty feet below the level of the sea. As I 
rode over the same road that Christ used so long ago, it seemed 
to me that again was I in a holy place, for nearly all of the 
ministry of Christ was accomplished in this vicinity. 

The contrasts presented by the situation of the Lake of 
Galilee and its surroundings are startling. Here in this deep 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 31 

valley or trench lies the lake of clear fresh water, full of fish, 
the color of the water a sparkling blue, the surface of which is 
often broken into little ripples by the cool breezes from the 
snow-capped Lebanon and Hermon, and sometimes lashed 
into furious waves by the sudden gusts of wind that swoop 
down upon the lake from the sterile volcanic heights which 
almost encompass the whole shore. 

How different it must have been when Christ went about 
these shores and hills doing good. Then the hills were covered 
with trees and the shores were lined with villages and large, 
busy towns, for people were attracted to this beautiful lake 
from every land and nation. 

Trees and plants of the temperate and the tropical zones 
could here grow in close proximity because of the steep slope 
of the hills which fall from an altitude of four thousand feet 
above the sea to six hundred and eighty feet below at the 
shores of the Lake of Galilee. 

Josephus, who described this province which he governed 
only a few years after the time of Christ, writes: "The plain 
of Gennesaret had soil so fruitful that all sorts of trees would 
grow upon it, for the temper of the air is so well blended that 
it suits those many sorts, especially walnuts which require the 
colder air (relatively to the rest), and flourish there in great 
plenty. There are palm trees also which grow best in hot air; 
fig trees also, and olives grow near them, which require an air 
more temperate." 

The few little gardens I saw in my wanderings around the 
lake gave proof of this luxuriance which is accentuated by 
wealth of wild flowers everywhere, except in the vicinity of 



32 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

the hot springs near the town of Tiberias. This town, built 
on the site of an ancient city by Herod and named after the 
Roman Emperor, is the only one remaining of the many cities 
of other days. It is of little interest to the Christian and was 
detested by the Jew, because they considered the place defiled. 
Perhaps it is for this reason, and because it was new, that it 
is not mentioned in the ministry of Christ. At all events, this 
section of the shore of the lake is unhealthy and not as pleas- 
ant as the parts farther north. 

The hot springs or baths of Tiberias lie close to the shore 
about a mile below Tiberias. In spite of the changes every- 
where which have obliterated names and sites, these springs 
have preserved their reputation and name. Joshua called 
them Hammath and to-day the natives speak of them as 
Hammam Tabariyeh, and, as of old, many are brought here 
to be cured of their ills. The springs are built over with bath- 
houses which are not at all inviting and indescribably dirty, 
like most of the native structures in this vicinity. 

One day I chanced to see four fishing-boats on the lake, an 
unusual sight to-day, and I thought of other days when there 
must have been many who made fishing their business. Near 
Capernaum I watched the fishermen casting their nets and 
I drew near in time to see them haul the net, but that time 
"they caught nothing." How close that brought me to the 
time when Jesus stood on that shore and said, "Children, have 
ye any meat? They answered him, No. And he said unto 
them, Cast the net on the right side of the ship, and ye shall 
find. They cast therefore, and now they were not able to 
draw it for the multitude of fishes." (John xxi.) 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 33 

The exact site of Capernaum is still in dispute, so we can- 
not say just where the home of Christ was, but it was some- 
where in this immediate vicinity where I stood and watched 
the fishermen. 

How singular it was that Christ sought for his dis- 
ciples among the free hardy fishermen, independent, yet not 
wealthy, simple and receptive. And Jesus said unto them, 
"Come ye after me, and I will make you to become fishers 
of men." 

We entered a boat and sailed to the place where the Jor- 
dan flows into the Sea of Galilee. Beyond the eastern bank of 
the river lay a plain covered with grass and low bushes. This 
probably is where Christ fed the multitude with the loaves 
and fishes. 

Bethsaida probably stood just a short distance up the river, 
but there is not a vestige of it left now. And so it is with Cho- 
razin and Capernaum, a complete fulfilment of the upbraiding 
of " the cities wherein most of his mighty works were done, 
because they repented not." (Matt, xi, 20-24.) 

"And thou Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, 
shalt be brought down to hell: for if the mighty works, which 
have been done in thee, had been done in Sodom, it would 
have remained until this day." 

Our little company were loath to turn from these places 
of sacred memory to continue the journey along the route 
to Damascus. 

The valley of the upper Jordan offers little of interest in 
the way of towns or life, and yet there I saw the "still waters" 
and "green pastures." The children of the East come up 



34 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

here with their cattle and their tents in search of pasture just 
as they have done since the time or before the time of Moses. 
Their black tents made of camel's hair by the women are 
so constructed that they may be quickly set up and as speedily 
struck, as it were in a moment. How great must have been 
the terror of Ben-hadad, King of Syria, and his hosts when 
"they arose and fled in the twilight, and left their tents and 
their horses, and their asses, even the camp as it was, and fled 
for their life." (II Kings vii, 7.) 

These nomads are troublesome people to deal with, for 
they have inherited the tendency to relieve passers-by of their 
worldly goods and possessions. It is therefore well to travel 
with a party and not alone. 

After paying tribute to the sheik, according to ancient 
custom, we continued up by the waters of Merom with the 
great Mount Hermon in the background dominating the 
marshy valley of the Jordan, now only seven feet below sea- 
level. There were many little brooks flowing down from the 
spurs of Lebanon, which still was hidden from us. It was in- 
teresting to watch the goatherds and the shepherds lead their 
flocks down to the still v/aters, and they separated the sheep 
from the goats. 

Above the waters of Merom the valley suddenly narrows 
and the Jordan flows for some distance through a wild, rocky 
ravine which is spanned by a dilapidated stone bridge built 
by the Romans. As far as the eye could see, the river banks 
were resplendent with oleanders in full bloom. 

After crossing the bridge we began the ascent of the foot- 
hills of Mount Hermon. We passed a magnificent oak tree 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 35 

under which were several tombs. The oak tree is frequently 
mentioned in the Scriptures; Deborah was buried under an 
oak; Joshua set up a great stone under an oak; Jacob hid 
all the strange gods and the ear-rings under an oak; Absa- 
lom's hair caught hold of the oak; it seemed to be regarded 
with great reverence in the olden days by every one, even as 
by the Muslims to-day. 

After a steady ascent for more than an hour we arrived 
at Tell-el-kadi, one of the supposed sites of Laish, which the 
Danites took for their city. 

About an hour farther on is Banias which I think is more 
likely to be the site of ancient Dan, for Banias seems to be 
the key to this whole district. Trees and undergrowth were 
most luxuriant and hid from view the gushing, headlong stream 
which we soon crossed by means of an old Roman bridge. A 
few steps beyond the bridge a great cliff one hundred and fifty 
feet high suddenly confronts you. In the cliff is a great cavern 
from which the Jordan issues, full born, with the sound of 
joyous, bubbling water. The mouth of the cavern is now al- 
most concealed by masses of broken rocks ':hat have broken 
away from the cliff for many centuries. 

No one takes care of this wonderful spot now, but the many 
niches cut deep into the walls of the cliff indicate that this was 
a sanctuary in by-gone days, where man fell on his face and 
worshipped his God. It might have been Baal or Pan, the 
gods of the Greeks or of the Romans, of the Syrians and of 
the Assyrians; no matter by what name, the individual here 
gave thanks for the blessed gift of pure water, clear as crystal. 
Here, from the very foundations of snowy Mount Hermon, 



36 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

springs forth that river, the like of which there is not another 
on this earth. 

In its geographical aspect the Jordan is most remarkable, 
for it rises at an altitude of over one thousand one hundred 
and fifty feet, flows through an extraordinary trench or valley 
most of the way below sea-level until it empties into the Dead 
Sea one thousand three hundred feet below the level of the 
ocean. 

In its religious aspect it stands alone, for it is the symbol 
of the beginning of the Christian life, baptism, and the end- 
ing, the waters of death, which separate him from the promised 
land. Although the river is referred to directly only a few 
times in the Bible, the symbolical references are almost with- 
out number. 

This visit to the source of the Jordan was a revelation to 
me, for here, surrounded by the images of various gods, stood 
Jesus Christ himself and his disciples (for they had sought 
refuge from the hostility of the Jews in this place Banias, which 
was Caesarea Philippi), and he asked his disciples, saying, 
" Whom do men say that I the son of man am ? And they said, 
Some say that thou art John the Baptist: some, Elias; and 
others, Jeremias, or one of the prophets. He saith unto them, 
But whom say ye that I am? And Simon Peter answered and 
said, Thou art the Christ, the son of the living God." (Matt. 
xvi, 13, 16.) 

Is it not wonderful that this declaration should have been 
made in the presence, as it were, of the gods of other religions ? 
And especially near that temple where the Emperor Augustus 
was worshipped as God ? 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 37 

It was here that he resolved to return to Jerusalem "and 
suffer many things," so " He steadfastly set his face to go to 
Jerusalem." 

As I stood here at the source of the Jordan looking at this 
pure stream welling forth to bless the earth, and remembered 
that on this very spot was made the first confession of man 
that Christ was the Son of God, one verse of Revelation came 
to me and has lived with me, "And he shewed me a pure 
river of water of life, clear as crystal, proceeding out of the 
throne of God and of the lamb." 

In all probability Christ never went farther north than 
Banias or Caesarea Philippi. Although Damascus is not in 
the Holy Land, it is so closely connected with its history that 
even if Paul had not gone there and boldly preached Christ 
after his conversion it is worth the time and trouble, being 
only sixteen hours from Banias. 

(Since the completion of the railways, Damascus is easily 
reached either from Haifa or Beyrout.) 

As I journeyed over the ancient road, I read the account 
of Paul's journey to Damascus. (Acts ix.) How vivid it 
all was as I entered the city and walked through the street 
that is called straight and then saw the Christian section, 
which has never recovered from the terrible devastation to 
which it was subjected in 1860, when more than six thou- 
sand Christians were massacred! 

After visiting the most attractive bazaars, the finest in 
the Far East, I passed through an old-fashioned gate and 
walked along the road outside the walls of the city and was 
shown the window through which Paul was let down by 



38 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

the wall in a basket. Now as this wall was built by the 
Turks centuries after Paul visited Damascus, this could not 
possibly be the window. 

This is one of the many instances where this, that, or the 
other place is pointed out by the various churches in the Holy 
Land as the true site without a scintilla of proof and often 
in direct contradiction of well-known historical facts. I men- 
tion this as a warning to any intending to visit Palestine. 

"And the king said unto him, How many times shall I 
adjure thee that thou tell me nothing but -that which is true 
in the name of the Lord?" (I Kings xxii, 16.) 

Damascus has always been regarded as an earthly paradise 
by the Arabs who describe paradise as being a garden full of 
fruit trees, watered by a stream of flowing water, yielding 
all manner of delicious fruits ever ripe for the delectation of 
the faithful. We, who are blessed with green hills and dales, 
with gurgling brooks everywhere so numerous that their 
music becomes common and is hardly noticed, cannot appre- 
ciate the emotions of those who live in, and wander over, 
the hot sands of the desert when they suddenly come upon 
Damascus with its gardens and orchards watered by the rivers 
Barada (Abana) and Nahr el Awaj (Pharpar). 

From the top of a house I looked over the city, with its 
many minarets, and the river Barada toward Mount Hermon, 
and could distinctly see the triple peaks covered with snow. 
Many of the best authorities agree that the transfiguration 
of Christ took place upon this "high mountain apart." 

This seems very probable to me, for Christ stayed several 
days at Banias, that place of refuge, just at the base of Mount 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 39 

Hermon, and the ascent of the mountain is not difficult. 
(Compare Matt, xvii, i; Mark ix, 2; Luke ix, 28.) 

From the top of the mountain one can see nearly all of 
Syria. The haze which seems to be ever present in the low 
valley of the Jordan prevents a distinct view farther than the 
Sea or Lake of Galilee. Tabor and Carmel were hardly dis- 
tinguishable. The mountains of Lebanon seemed to stretch 
out in every direction like the roots of a great oak. Hosea 
must have seen this view, for he writes: "I will be as the dew 
unto Israel: he shall grow as the lily, and cast forth his roots 
as Lebanon." (Hosea xiv, 5.) 

It is on account of these mountains that Galilee has more 
dew and rain than Samaria and Judea. 

Having seen these great mountains of the north, I re- 
turned to the Mount of Olives so often visited by Christ and 
looked once more toward Jerusalem. 



JERUSALEM 

FROM the top of the Mount of Olives the city lies before 
you "builded as a city that is compact together" upon an 
island of rocks surrounded by deep valleys, except on the 
north. The temple and the palaces of the kings have disap- 
peared; its mighty towers have been laid low; there is noth- 
ing left to indicate the former greatness of Judah's capital 
except her situation. 

The city could easily be attacked and taken, but it could 
not be held unless all the neighboring hills had been captured 
beforehand; therefore I think that is what the psalmist had 
in mind in the beginning of his beautiful song: "I will lift 
mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help." 
(Psalm cxxi.) 

Psalm xlviii : " Great is the Lord, and greatly to be praised 
in the city of our God, in the mountain of his holiness. 
Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount 
Zion, on the sides of the north, the city of the great king." 

Truly the situation of Mount Zion, where the temple 
stood, is beautiful, but now desolate. The sad prediction of 
Christ is fulfilled: "O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, which killest 
the prophets, and stonest them that are sent unto thee; 
how often would I have gathered thy children together, as 
a hen doth gather her brood under her wings, and ye would 
not! Behold, your house is left unto you desolate: and verily 
I say unto you, Ye shall not see me, until the time come when 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 41 

ye shall say, Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the 
Lord." (Luke xiii, 34, 35; compare Isa. xxx, 15.) 

One Friday I stood in the wailing-place of the Jews and 
heard their sad litany: 

"For the palace that lies desolate: We sit in solitude and 

mourn. 
For the walls that are overthrown: We sit in solitude and 

mourn. 
For our majesty that is departed: We sit in solitude and 

mourn. 
We pray thee, have mercy on Zion! Gather the children of 

Jerusalem." 

Profoundly moved, I turned away, filled with compassion 
and wonder. They were using the very words uttered by 
Christ! And they will continue doing so "until the time 
come." The miracle of to-day ! The Jew! (Deut. iv, 25-40.) 

How do those who decry miracles explain the Jew, scat- 
tered to the uttermost parts of the earth? Dwelling among 
all peoples, yet distinct and separate. 

"Behold, the Lord's hand is not shortened, that it cannot 
save; neither is his ear heavy, that it cannot hear: But your 
iniquities have separated between you and your God, and 
your sins have hid his face from you, that he will not hear." 
(Isa. lix, i, 2.) But the time will come as predicted, for "he 
will not always chide: neither will he keep his anger forever." 
(Ps. ciii) 

"I will rejoice in Jerusalem, and the joy of my people: 
and the voice of weeping shall be no more heard in her, nor 
the voice of crying." (Isa. Ixv, 19.) 



42 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

The great wall of the wailing-place, against which the 
Jews lean in their sorrow, is exposed for a distance of about 
one hundred and fifty feet and is fifty-six feet high above 
the present level of the pavement. Some of the stones are 
huge and show the eroding effect of time. 

From the wailing-place I went to the site of the temple, 
near the place where David built an altar unto the Lord. 
This large quadrangular place, now called the Haram esh- 
Sherif, is paved with great blocks of stone. __ Scattered over 
this great stone platform are many places of prayer for the 
faithful Muslims, for they are now in possession of this, one of 
the most interesting spots in the world. All creeds agree 
that the sanctuary of the Lord God Almighty stood here 
until the fulfilment of the prophecy in I Kings ix, 7. 

"Then will I cut off Israel out of the land which I have 
given them; and this house, which I have hallowed for my 
name, will I cast out of my sight; and Israel shall be a proverb 
and a byword among all people." 

"And Jesus said unto them, See ye not all these things? 
Verily I say unto you, There shall not be left here one stone 
upon another, that shall not be thrown down." (Matt, 
xxiv, 2.) 

Near the centre of this platform is a Mohammedan 
mosque, called the Mosque of Omar, which stands directly 
over the dome of the rock. The Mohammedans will not al- 
low excavations or investigations to be made here, which is 
a great pity, for I believe that upon this sacred rock once 
stood the Ark of the Covenant and that the great altar of 
sacrifice was here. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 43 

According to Jewish tradition, Abraham and Melchize- 
dek sacrificed here; Abraham was about to sacrifice his only 
son Isaac upon this place, which he called Jehovah-jireh, 
"the Lord will provide"; and on this rock was written the 
great and unspeakable name of God, which, according to 
tradition, Jesus succeeded in reading and so was able to work 
his miracles. These are a few of the traditions which have 
been handed down from generation to generation, and the 
Jews of to-day cling to them most tenaciously. 

Solomon's temple must have been magnificent according 
to the description given in II Chronicles; the second temple, 
erected after the return from exile, was inferior; while the 
third temple, which Herod built, was superior to that of 
Solomon. Many have endeavored to reconstruct and re- 
produce the temple in word pictures or drawings from the 
very unsatisfactory description given by Josephus. 

The present structure is a fine example of Arabian archi- 
tecture following Byzantine designs. This beautiful building 
produced such an impression on the templars in the Middle 
Ages that they thought it was the temple of Solomon and 
carried the design back to Europe with them. Young Raphael 
saw this design and used it in his famous painting of the 
Sposalizio, the nuptials of the Virgin, now in the Brera Gal- 
lery at Milan. 

I believe, however, that it was the purpose of God Al- 
mighty to destroy the temple so utterly that man would turn 
from the contemplation of sticks and stones unto him who 
said, "Destroy this temple, and in three days I will raise it 
up." (John ii, 19.) 



44 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

St. Stephen said just before he was stoned to death: 
"But Solomon built him an house. Howbeit the most 
High dwelleth not in temples made with hands." (Acts 
vii, 47.) 

From the great stone square where once stood the temple 
of other days, I walked to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 
The present building was erected in 1810 over the remains 
of several other buildings, the earliest of which was conse- 
crated in the year 336 A. D. 

The traditions, legends, and stories which have been 
woven about this shrine would fall many volumes, and the 
task of repeating them is quite beyond the scope of my camera 
crusade. The photographic plates in my camera refused to 
record the impressions of the dark, gloomy chapels and other 
things in the various parts of the interior of the building 
would that I could say that of my heart and mind. 

The Greek, the Latin, the Armenian, and the Coptic 
churches, each own portions of the interior, and, sad to relate, 
a guard of Mohammedan soldiers is posted there to keep 
order among the Christians. During the Easter festivals 
for there are two, one the Latin, the other the Greek the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the city are crowded 
with pilgrims of every nationality. After one experience in 
the church I preferred to stay outside. 

In the little square south of the entrance I saw the Greek 
ceremony of the washing of feet. Every nook and crevice 
about the square was occupied by spectators, 

One day as I was walking through the streets I saw a 
house with a "large upper room," and it made me think of 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 45 

Christ's instructions to the two disciples, "Go" ye into the 
city, and there shall meet you a man bearing a pitcher 
of water: follow him, . . . and he will show you a large 
upper room furnished and prepared: there make ready 
for us." 

I went up into the room; it was the guest-chamber of 
the good man of the house, and I have no doubt that it was 
much like the one in which Christ and his disciples kept the 
Passover, and instituted the sacrament of the holy com- 
munion. "This do in remembrance of me." It seemed as 
though I was to have two things to remember, for under 
that room was a manger just like the one where Christ our 
passover was born. 

Not far from this house I was shown a pool far below the 
present level of the street, near the sheep market. It is 
called the Pool of Bethesda. It appears to correspond with 
the description given in John v, 2, but there is nothing to 
prove that this is the pool where an angel went down at a 
certain season and troubled the water. And this difficulty 
meets one everywhere in Jerusalem, and it will not be re- 
moved until the whole city has been thoroughly excavated, 
a thing that is utterly impossible under the present govern- 
ment. 

I made very few photographs within the city walls, and I 
received very few impressions pleasant to remember or that 
were edifying. 

One night as I sat in my tent on the Mount of Olives 
reading descriptions of Jerusalem in the Old Testament, I 
read Psalms xlviii, 12, 13, 14. "Walk about Zion, and go 



46 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

round about her: tell the towers thereof. Mark ye well her 
bulwarks, consider her palaces; that ye may tell it to the 
generation following. For this God is our God for ever and 
ever: he will be our guide even unto death." 

It seemed to be a command. Early in the morning I en- 
tered Jerusalem for the last time by the gate where St. Ste- 
phen was stoned to death, walked rapidly through the quaint 
arched streets until I reached the Joppa gate; there I began 
my walk round about Jerusalem. 

"Tell the towers thereof." Alas, there is only one left, 
called the Tower of David. It stands high up above the well- 
preserved west wall of the city. 

David said "For thou hast been a shelter for me, and a 
strong tower from the enemy." Just below David's tower 
is the Pool of Gihon, built by Hezekiah so as to preserve the 
water of the brook Gihon. Jerusalem is really destitute of 
water except one poor little spring. The inhabitants depend 
upon rain water caught in cisterns. I then walked south 
beyond the valley of Hinnom, and from a hill looked north- 
east over the valley toward the south-eastern slope of Mount 
Zion, the Tyropoean valley, with the village of Siloam on 
the right and the Mount of Olives with its Russian tower in 
the background. 

Then I walked down into the Valley of Hinnom, which was 
the ancient southern border of the city of David. To the left 
of this valley rises the Mount of Evil Counsel, where the last 
view was obtained. It is so named because Caiaphas pos- 
sessed a country house here in which he consulted with the 
Jews how he might kill Jesus. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 47 

It was in this valley that children were at one time sacri- 
ficed to Moloch; therefore the place was called Tophet, the 
place of fire. The Jews detested the place and called it Ge- 
henna. To the left, under the Mount of Evil Counsel, are 
many tombs cut deep into the rock. 

This valley runs nearly east and west. Turning to the 
north, the valley of the brook Kidron leads by the village of 
Siloam to the Pool of Siloam. I was a church organist for 
many years and often played that hymn, "By Cool Siloam's 
Shady Rill." I will never play that again. Whoever wrote 
that hymn had never smelt that pool. Perhaps it was not 
so bad in David's time. 

Just above this is the Tyropoean Valley, now filled up with 
rubbish. This valley is not mentioned in the Bible; the 
name is Greek and means the valley of dung; it is most 
appropriately named. In David's time this valley was much 
deeper than it is now and was probably the western boundary 
of the city of David. From the Pool of Siloam the view south 
is very picturesque. On the right the Valley of Hinnom enters 
the King's Dale and meets the valley of the brook Kidron. 
At the junction of these two valleys is a well, covered with 
a domed structure, which the Muslims without reason call 
Job's Well. I am convinced that this is the well by En-rogel, 
where Jonathan and Ahimaaz went down into a well and a 
woman covered the well's mouth so that the thing was not 
known. (II Sam. xvii, 15-22.) 

From the well which I prefer to call En-rogel the view up 
the Kidron Valley is striking. On the right is the village of 
Siloah, or Siloam, then the valley of the brook Kidron, with 



48 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

the corner of the temple wall high up on the left. It was 
across this valley that David and all his followers fled from 
his son Absalom. 

A little farther up the valley is the only spring in or near 
Jerusalem; it is called the Spring of Mary. In the olden 
times it was called the Spring of Gihon. Here I saw little 
girls go down and fill water-bottles made of the whole skin 
of a goat, and with charming grace carry their heavy bur- 
den to the village of Siloam. Let me here warn every one to 
be careful and never drink any water in Jerusalem unless 
they see it boiled. 

These skin bottles are used all over the land just as they 
were in the olden time, not only for water, but for wine 
also. An old skin would not stand the pressure of new wine; 
hence the saying, "Neither do men put new wine into old 
bottles." 

Beyond the Spring of Mary, the Kidron Valley begins to 
open. High above on the left is the corner of the temple 
wall; directly in front, in the bottom of the valley, which is 
sometimes called the Valley of Jehoshaphat, there are many 
tombs, of which three have important names attached to 
them: the tomb of Absalom, of Jehoshaphat, and of Zacharias. 
I simply say that these names are attached to them. 

Just beyond these tombs (and it may be well to call atten- 
tion to the fact that all the tombs next to the city walls on the 
left are Mohammedan tombs, while those on the right side 
of the valley are Jewish) the Golden Gate comes into view. 
"Then he brought me back the way of the gate of the outward 
sanctuary which looketh toward the east; and it was shut. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 49 

Then said the Lord unto me: This gate shall be shut, it shall 
not be opened, and no man shall enter in by it; because the 
Lord the God of Israel hath entered in by it, therefore it 
shall be shut. It is for the prince; the prince, he shall sit in 
it to eat bread before the Lord; he shall enter by the way 
of the porch of that gate and shall go out by the way of the 
same." (Ezek. xliv, 1-3.) 

This indicates that the Golden Gate was shut up at a very 
early period. During the time of the Crusades this gate was 
opened on Palm Sunday, and the great procession with palm 
branches entered the city by this gate from the Mount of 
Olives. 

After capturing the city, the Mohammedans closed the 
gate again and it has not been opened since. They have a 
very curious tradition that they will hold Jerusalem until a 
Christian conqueror opens the gate, enters, and captures the 
city. They also say that the columns of the gate were pre- 
sented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba. 

The reason the valley below the gate is so full of tombs 
and graves is that both the Jews and the Mohammedans 
believe that the resurrection will begin here. The Moham- 
medans have a remarkable idea of the last day. On that day 
a hair from the beard of the prophet will be stretched from 
the Golden Gate to the top of the Mount of Olives. Christ 
will sit at one end and Mohammed at the other as judges. 
Those who succeed in crossing on that slender bridge will reach 
eternal bliss, whereas those who have no faith will slip and 
fall down to perdition in the valley below, which will open 
to receive them into the bottomless pit. The faithful, how- 



50 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

ever, will have no difficulty, for they will be sustained by the 
two angels appointed by Allah to guard them. 

Almost directly across the valley from the Golden Gate 
is the Garden of Gethsemane, a quiet place with aged olive 
trees now surrounded by flower beds tenderly cared for by 
Franciscan monks. It is situated at the base of the Mount of 
Olives and is about a Sabbath day's journey from Jerusalem, 
so it was far enough away from the city to be a retreat from 
the crowds and excitement during the feast of the Passover. 

"And when Jesus had spoken these wor,ds, he went forth 
with his disciples over the brook Cedron (Kidron), where 
was a garden, into which he entered, and his disciples." (John 
xviii, I.) 

Here he came, despised and rejected of men, a man of 
sorrows and acquainted with grief, to pray. And such a 
prayer! Think of the agony of the One without sin taking 
upon himself the sin of the world! 

That night, in that garden, he was betrayed. 

As I stood in that garden nearly two thousand years after 
that awful night and looked upon those old olive trees which 
may have witnessed that betrayal of the Son of man, I won- 
dered, ay! I wondered, I shall always wonder! 

From the Garden of Gethsemane I walked around the 
north-east corner of the wall of the city and along the north 
wall till I came to the Damascus Gate. There, seated about 
the gate, were all kinds of men, some gossiping or arguing, 
others trading and bargaining, and some just loafing. 

The inevitable beggar was also there, even a poor leper. 
Through the gate came one of the sons of Levi dressed in the 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 51 

raiment peculiar to the time of the feast of the Passover and 
wearing a curious fur turban. It seemed hardly possible that 
this was the twentieth century, and that this was all real and 
not a dream of the scenes that Solomon and his people were 
accustomed to see "in the gates," to which he alluded when 
praising the virtuous woman: "Her husband is known in 
the gates, when he sitteth among the elders of the land." 
(Prov. xxxi, 23.) 

"They hate him that rebuketh in the gate"; "They 
afflict the just, they take a bribe, and they turn aside the poor 
in the gate from their rights"; "Hate evil, and love the good, 
and establish judgment in the gate." (Amos v, 10, 12, 15.) 

; 'They that sit in the gate speak against me." (Ps. 
Ixix, 12.) 

Ever since Moses stood in the gate of the camp and spoke 
to his erring people, the gates of the Far East have always 
been the favorite places for transacting business of all kinds 
and most frequented by the idle and the inquisitive. This 
Damascus Gate, as it stands to-day, dates back only to the 
beginning of the sixteenth century; an older structure was 
rebuilt by Soliman. Excavations prove that this gate is 
built on the foundations of an ancient one, for not only this 
but also a fragment of a wall built of great blocks of hewn 
stone were discovered here. 

I felt that this was the very place where that gate stood, 
through which he was "brought as a lamb to the slaughter" 
to the place where "Jesus also, that he might sanctify the 
people with his own blood, suffered without the gate." (Heb. 
xiii, 12.) 



5 2 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

Without this gate there is a green hill which many believe 
is "Golgotha, which is, being interpreted, The place of a 
skull," "called Calvary." 

From a certain stand-point this hill, partly cut away by 
a quarry, resembles the form of a human skull. 

Whether this or another place is the true spot where the 
Son of man was lifted up, as Moses lifted up the serpent in 
the wilderness, I will not dispute with any one; I will simply 
say that as I contemplated the momentous tragedy which 
ended when he said, "It is finished," it mattered little to me 
whether it occurred here or a few hundred yards away, be- 
cause the transcendent truth entered my soul, although I 
could not understand it: "For God so loved the world, that 
he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in 
him should not perish, but have everlasting life." (John 
Hi, 16.) 

"Surely he hath born our griefs, and carried our sorrows: 
yet we did esteem him stricken, smitten of God, and afflicted. 
But he was wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised 
for our iniquities: the chastisement of our peace was upon 
him: and with his stripes we are healed." (Isa. liii, 4, 5.) 

He was crucified between two thieves as was foretold, 
"And he was numbered with the transgressors; and he bare 
the sins of many, and made intercession for the transgressors." 
(Isa. liii, 12.) 

" Behold the Lamb of God which taketh away the sin of 
the world." (John i, 29.) 

"And thou shalt call his name JESUS: for he shall save 
his people from their sins." (Matt, i, 21.) 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 53 

"And Pilate wrote a title and put it on the cross. And 
the writing was, JESUS OF NAZARETH THE KING OF THE JEWS." 
(John xix, 19.) 

"Neither is there salvation in any other: for there is none 
other name under heaven given among men, whereby we must 
be saved." (Acts iv, 12.) 

" For even Christ our passover is sacrificed for us." (I Cor. 

v,7-) 

"Let us draw near with a true heart in full assurance of 
faith, having our hearts sprinkled from an evil conscience, 
and our bodies washed with pure water." (Heb. x, 22.) 

Sacrifice for our sin we cannot offer, for He hath been 
sacrificed once for all, and He said, "It is finished"; but 
"a broken and a contrite heart, O God, thou wilt not 
despise." 

"And behold, the veil of the temple was rent in twain 
from the top to the bottom." Now, through Jesus Christ, 
our high-priest, we may approach the mercy-seat, for "by 
his own blood he entered in once into the holy place, having 
obtained eternal redemption for us." 

"Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the 
life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me." "And I, 
if I be lifted up from the earth, will draw all men unto me." 

"Now in the place where he was crucified there was a gar- 
den; and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never 
man yet laid. There laid they Jesus therefore ... for the 
sepulchre was nigh at hand." (John xix, 41, 42.) 

"And he made his grave with the wicked, and with the 
rich in his death." (Isa. liii, 9.) 



54 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

" When the even was come, there came a rich man of Ari- 
mathaea, named Joseph, who also himself was Jesus' disciple: 
He went to Pilate and begged the body of Jesus. Then Pilate 
commanded the body to be delivered. And when Joseph had 
taken the body, he wrapped it in a clean linen cloth, and laid 
it in his own new tomb, which he had hewn out in the rock: 
and he rolled a great stone to the door of the sepulchre and 
departed." (Matt, xxvii, 57, 58, 59, 60.) 

Even to this day there is a small garden in one side of 
which there is a rocky cliff, in which there is an unfinished 
tomb; all of which is in keeping with the descriptions in the 
Bible. This tomb is called Gordon's Tomb, after the great 
English general who thought that this was the tomb where 
they laid Him. 

As I have remarked before, nothing certain can be known 
about this and other places of sacred memory in Jerusalem 
until excavations can be made. But if this is not the one, it 
is an exact type of the stone tombs of that period. The chief 
priests and the Pharisees wishing to make sure that Christ 
would not rise again on the third day, after receiving per- 
mission from Pilate, went and made the sepulchre sure by 
sealing the stone and setting a watch. 

Often have I read the different accounts of this stone in 
front of a tomb, but never did I have a clear idea of it until 
I came to the end of my camera crusade, when I found a tomb 
with " the stone rolled away." 

"And when the sabbath was past, Mary Magdalene, and 
Mary the mother of James, and Salome had bought sweet 
spices, that they might come and anoint him. And very 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 55 

early in the morning the first day of the week, they came unto 
the sepulchre at the rising of the sun, And they said among 
themselves, Who shall roll us away the stone from the door 
of the sepulchre? And when they looked, they saw that the 
stone was rolled away: for it was very great." (Mark xvi.) 

And when the women were afraid, the angel of the Lord 
said, "Fear not ye: for I know that ye seek Jesus, which was 
crucified. He is not here: for he is risen." 

"But now is Christ risen from the dead and become the 
first-fruits of them that slept. For since by man came death, 
by man came also the resurrection of the dead. For as in 
Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive." 
(I Cor. xv.) 

"But thanks be to God, which giveth us the victory 
through our Lord Jesus Christ." (I Cor. xv, 57.) 

After showing himself to the women, our risen Lord went 
to Galilee as he had promised his disciples. There he met 
them, but they knew him not. "And it came to pass as he 
sat at meat with them, he took bread, and blessed it and brake, 
and gave to them." "And their eyes were opened, and they 
knew him." (Luke xxiv, 30, 31.) 

May you ever know and remember him in the breaking 
of bread. 

"For Jesus said unto them, I am the bread of life: he that 
cometh to me shall never hunger; and he that believeth on 
me shall never thirst." (John vi, 35.) 

"Ho, every one that thirsteth, come ye to the waters, and 
he that hath no money, come ye, buy, and eat; yea, come, buy 
wine and milk without money and without price." (Isa. Iv, i.) 



56 A CAMERA CRUSADE 

"Come unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, 
and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you, and learn 
of me; for I am meek and lowly in heart: and ye shall find 
rest unto your souls. For my yoke is easy, and my burden 
is light." (Matt, xi, 28-30.) 

"For the Lamb which is in the midst of the throne shall 
feed them, and shall lead them unto living fountains of 
waters: and God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes." 
(Rev. vii, 17.) 

"Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to "receive power, 
and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honour, and glory, 
and blessing." (Rev. v, 12.) 

And so I bear testimony to the things I found in the Holy 
Land, and to the truths I found in his Holy word, which "is 
a lamp unto my feet and a light unto my path." 

"I will fear no evil," "For I know that my Redeemer 
liveth." 

In the words of the beloved disciple John, I may humbly 
say: 

"And he said unto me, Write: for these words are true 
and faithful." 



PLATES AND TEXTS 



PLATE II 



JOPPA FROM THE SEA 

II Chron. ii, And we will cut wood out of Lebanon, as much 
as thou shalt need; and we will bring it to thee 
in flotes by sea to Joppa; and thou shalt carry 
it up to Jerusalem. 

Joshua xix, 46. 

Ezra iii, 7. 

Jonah i, 3. 

Acts ix, 36, 43; xi, 5. 



PLATE III 



THE SEA FROM THE ROOF OF "ONE SIMON 
A TANNER" 

Acts ix, 43. And it came to pass, that he tarried many days 
in Joppa with one Simon a tanner. 

Jonah i, 3. 
Acts x, 6. 



PLATE IV 



A BREAD SELLER AT JOPPA 
Gen. xviii, 5. And I will fetch a morsel of bread. 

Gen. xiv, 18; xxv, 34; xli, 54, 55; xliii, 25, 31, 32; xlv, 23. 

Ex. xvi, 4, 8, 12, 15, 32; xxiii, 25. 

Lev. xxvi, 26. 

Deut. viii. 

Joshua ix, 5. 

Judges vii, 13. 

Ruth i, 6. 

I Sam. ii, 36; xxii, 13; xxviii, 20, 22. 

II Sam. vi, 19. 

Prov. xii, 9, u; xx, 13; xxii, 9; xxxi, 27. 

Eccl. ix, ii. 

Isaiah xxxiii, 16; Iv, 2. 

Matt, iv, 3, 4; vi, ii; vii, 9; xxvi, 26. 

Mark viii, 14. 

Luke iv, 4; xxiv, 35. 

John vi, 7-32-35, 50, 51. 



PLATE V 

PLAIN OF SHARON FROM THE TOWER OF RAMLEH 

Isaiah Ixv, And Sharon shall be a fold of flocks, and the 
valley of Achor a place for herds to lie down in, 
for my people that have sought me. 

I Chron. v, 16; xxvii, 29; viii, 12. 

Song Sol. ii, i. 

Isaiah xxxiii, 9; xxxv, 2. 



PLATE VI 

THE ROSES OF SHARON 

Song Sol. ii. I am the rose of Sharon and the lily of the 
valley. 

Song Sol. vi, 3; v, 13. 
Hosea xiv, 5. 
Matt, vi, 28, 29. 



PLATE VII 

PLOUGHING 

Deut. xxii, Thou shalt not plough with an ox and an ass 
10. together. 

I Sam. xiii, 19; xiv, 14. 
Job iv, 8; i, 14. 
Prov. xx, 4. 
Isaiah xxviii, 24. 
Acts ix, 5. 

I Cor. ix, 10. 

II Cor. vi, 14, 15, 16. 



PLATE VIII 

THE VALLEY OF ESHCOL 

Num. xxxii, They went up into the valley of Eshcol. 
9- 

Num. xiii, 17, 23, 24. 



V A 

AA* v>" * j. 




PLATE IX 

ABRAHAM'S OAK 
Gen. xviii, 4. And rest yourselves under the oak. 

Gen. xiii, 18; xxiii, 17, 18. 



PLATE X 

HEBRON THE POOL AND THE MOSQUE 

Gen. xxiii, 2. And Sarah died in Kirjath-arba; the same is 

Hebron in the land of Canaan. 
Gen. xii, 18; xxiii, 2, 9, 17, 20; xxxv, 27. 
Num. xiii, 22. 

Joshua x, 36; xiv, 13; xxi, 13; xv, 13. 
II Sam. ii, I, n, 27, 35; iii, 2; iv, 12; v, l; xv, 10. 
I Chron. xi, 1-3; xii, 38; xxix, 27. 



PLATE XI 

SOLOMON'S POOL 

II Kings xviii, 17. 
Isaiah vii, 3; xxxvi, 2. 
Neh. ii, 14. 



PLATE XII 

THE VILLAGE OF THE SHEPHERDS 

Jer. xxiii, 4. 
Isaiah \l. II. 
Luke ii, 8. 



PLATE XIII 

SHEPHERDS WATCHING THEIR FLOCKS 

Jer. xxiii, 4. And 1 will set up shepherds over them which 

shall feed them. 
Psalm xxiii, 2. 
Jer. xxxi, 28. 
Luke ii, 8. 



PLATE XIV 



THE CITY OF DAVID WHICH IS CALLED 
BETHLEHEM 

Luke ii, 4. And Joseph also went up from Galilee out of the 
city of Nazareth unto Judaea; into the city of 
David which is called Bethlehem. 

Gen. xlix, 10. 

Ex. xiii, 2. 

Num. xxiv, 17. 

Deut. xviii, 16. 

II Sam. xxiii, 15. 

I Chron. xi, 17. 

Psalm ii, 7; cxviii, 22; cxxxii, 1 1. 

Isaiah vii, 14; xi, I; Ix, 1-3; Ixxii, 10-12. 

Micah v, 2. 

Zech. iii, 8; vi, 12. 

Matt, ii, 1-8; viii, 29; xiv, 33; xxvi, 63; xxvii, 43, 54. 

Luke i, 35; iv, 41; xxii, 70. 

John i, 14, 34; iii, 16, 18; vi, 69; ix, 35-37; xx, 31; vii, 42. 



PLATE XV 

THE MANGER IN THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY 

Matt, ii, 9. When they heard the king, they departed; and, 
lo, the star which -they saw in the east went 
before them till it came and stood where the 
young child was. 

Luke ii, 7, 12, 16. 



PLATE XVI 

THE FIELDS OF BOAZ 

Luke iii, 32. 
Ruth, ii. 



PLATE XVII 



RUTH AND BOAZ 



Lev. xix, 9, 10; xxiii, 22. 
Deut. xxiv, 19. 
Ruth ii. 



PLATE XVIII 

A THRESHING FLOOR 

Gen. 1, 10. And they came to the threshing floor of Atad. 

Lev. xxvi, 5; xxv. 19. 

Num. xv, 20. 

Deut. xv, 14. 

Ruth iii, 2. 

II Sam. xxiv, 18-22. 

I Chron. xxi, 21-26. 

II Chron. iii, I. 

Isaiah xxi, 10; xxviii, 28. 
Joel ii, 24. 
Micah iv, 11-13. 
Matt, iii, 12. 



PLATE XIX 

SHEPHERDS LEADING THEIR FLOCKS 

Jer. xxiii, 4. And I will set up shepherds over them which 

shall feed them. 
Psalm xxiii, I. 
Isaiah xl, u. 
Ezek. xxxiv, 6-23. 
John x, 4, 5, 7-16. 
Heb. xiii, 20. 
I Peter ii, 25; v, 4. 
Rev. vii, 17. 



PLATE XX 

SHEPHERD'S PIPES, SLING, AND SCRIP 

I Sam. xvii, 40-54; x, 5; xxv, 29. 

I Kings i, 40. 

II Kings iv, 25. 

II Chron. xxvi, 14. 

Isaiah v, 12; xxx, 29. 

Jer. xlviii, 36. 

Prov. xxvi, 8. 

Matt, xi, 17; x, 10. 

Luke ix, 3; x, 4; xxii, 35, 36. 

I Cor. xiv, 7. 

Rev. xviii, 22. 



PLATE XXI 

THE BROOK KIDRON AT MARSABA 



II Sam. xv, 23. 
John xviii, i. 



PLATE XXII 

THE WILDERNESS OF THE SCAPEGOAT 

Lev. xvi, 22. And the goat shall bear upon him all their in- 
iquities into a land not inhabited: and he shall 
let go the goat in the wilderness. 

Lev. xvi, 20+ . 

I Sam. xxii, i; xxiii, 14. 

Psalms Ixiii David's prayers in the wilderness, 
and clxn. 

Isaiah xl, 3; liii, 6. 
Matt, iii, 1-3; xi, 7. 
Mark i, 3. 
Luke iii, 4; xv, 4. 
John i, 23. 



PLATE XXIII 

THE SALT OR THE DEAD SEA 

Gen. xiv, 3. The vale of Siddim which is the salt sea. 

Gen. xiv, 1-3; xviii, 16; xix, 28. 

Num. xxxiv, 12. 

Deut. iii, 17; xxix, 23. 

Joshua xii, 3; xv, 2; xviii, 19. 

Isaiah i, 9; in, 9; xiu, 19. 

Jer. iv, 26, 27; xxiii, 14; I, 40. 

Lam. iv, 6. 

Ezek. xvi, 46-55. 

Amos iv, ii. 

Zeph. ii, 9. 

Matt, x, 15; xi, 24. 

Mark vi, n. 

Luke x, 12; xvii, 29. 

Rom. ix, 29. 

II Peter ii, 6 

Jude, 7. 



PLATE XXIV 

THE SHORE OF THE DEAD SEA 

Jer. 1, 40. As God overthrew Sodom and Gomorrah and 
the neighbor cities thereof saith the Lord; so 
shall no man abide there, neither shall any son 
of man dwell therein. 

Gen. xiii, 10; xviii, 20 + xix, 24, 28. 

Deut. xxxii, 32. 

Isaiah i, 9. 

Jer. xxiii, 14; xlix, 18. 

Amos iv, ii. 

Zeph. ii, 9. 

II Peter ii, 6. 



PLATE XXV 

THE JORDAN FORD 

Matt, iii, 6. And were baptized of him in Jordan, confessing 

their sins. 
Joshua iii, 16. 
Matt, iii, 13. 
Mark i, 5-11. 
Luke iii, 21-38. 



PLATE XXVI 

LOOKING UP THE JORDAN 

Joshua xxii. The Lord hath made Jordan a border between 
25. us and you. 

Joshua iii, 14-17. 

I Sam. xvii, 22; xix, 15. 
II Kings ii, 13; v, 10. 
I Chron. xii, 15; xix, 17. 
Isaiah xlviii, 18. 
Ezek. xlvii, 5-18. 



PLATE XXVII 

ELISHA'S SPRING NEAR JERICHO 

II Kings ii, 19-22. 

Psalm xlii, i. 

Isaiah xliv, 3; xlvi, 4. 

John vi, 35. 

Rev. xxi, 6; xxii, i, 17. 



X 




PLATE XXVIII 

THE MOUNT OF TEMPTATION 

Matt, iv, 8. Again the devil taketh him up into an exceeding 
high mountain. 

Luke iv, 5. 
Mark i, 13. 



PLATE XXIX 

THE JERICHO ROAD AND THE SAMARITAN INN 

Luke x, A certain Samaritan went to him and bound up 

30-37- his wounds . . . and brought him to an inn. 



PLATE XXX 

THE BROOK CHERITH 

I Kings Hide thyself by the brook Cherith. 

xvii, 3. 

I Kings xviii. 



PLATE XXXI 

THE APOSTLES' SPRING ON THE JERICHO ROAD 



, 




PLATE XXXII 

WILDERNESS OF JUD^A FROM JERICHO ROAD 

Jer. xxxiii, 10, 12, 13. 
Matt, xi, 7; iii, I. 
Luke vii, 24; ix, 51; xv, 4. 
II Cor. xi, 26. 



PLATE XXXIII 

THE SHADOW OF A GREAT ROCK 

Isaiah The shadow of a great rock. 

xxxii, 2. 

Psalms xci, i ; xvii, 8; xxxvi, 7; Ivii, i; Ixi, 2, 3, 4; Ixiii, 7; xci, 4. 
Isaiah iv, 6; xxv, 4. 
Ruth ii, 12. 



PLATE XXXIV 

BETHANY 

Matt, xxi, He left them and went out of the city into Beth- 
'7- any and he lodged there. 

Matt, xxvi, 6-13. 
Mark xi, 12; xiv, 3; xvi, 19. 
Luke xix, 29; xxiv, 50, 51. 
John xi, 1-46; xii, 1-15. 



PLATE XXXV 



RUIN OF THE SUPPOSED HOUSE OF MARY 
AND MARTHA 



Luke x, 38-42. 
John xi, 1-46. 



PLATE XXXVI 

TWO WOMEN GRINDING 
Matt, xxiv, Two women shall be grinding at the mill. 



Matt, xviii, 6. 

Mark ix, 42. 

Luke xvii, 2, 35. 

Ex. xi, 5. 

Judges ix, 53; xvi, 21. 

Isaiah xlvii, 2. 



PLATE XXXVII 

THE MOUNT OF OLIVES 

Matt. xx\-\, They went out into the Mount of Olives. 
30. 

Matt, xxi, i; xxiv, 3. 
Mark xi, i; xiii, 3; xiv, 26. 
Luke xix, 37; xxii, 39; xxi, 37. 
Zech. xiv, 4. 
Ezek. >i, 23. 



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PLATE XXXVIII 



NORTH-EAST CORNER OF JERUSALEM, MIZPAH 
IN THE BACKGROUND 

I Sam. vii, 5-12. 

I Kings xv, 22. 

II Kings xxv, 22-26. 
Joshua xviii, 26. 
Judges x, 17; xi, 1 1, 29. 
Gen. xxxi, 49. 

Jer. xl, 10; xli, 3. 
Neh. iii, 7. 
Hosea v, i. 



PLATE XXXIX 

BETHEL 

Gen. xxviii, And he called the name of that place Bethel. 
19. 

Gen. xxviii, 10-22; xxxv, 1-15; xxxi, 13. 
Joshua xviii, 13, 22. 
Judges i, 22, 23, 26. 

I Kings xii, 29. 

II Kings x, 29. 
Jer. vii, n. 

Amos iii, 14; iv, 4; v, 5, 6; vii, 13. 



PLATE XL 

A JUD,AN HIGHWAY 

Matt, xxii, Go ye therefore into the highways. 

9- 

I uke xiv, 23. 
Mark x, 46. 



PLATE XL: 

LOOKING NORTH TOWARD SHILOH 

Joshua \\iii, And the whole congregation of the children of 
i. Israel assembled together at Shiloh, and set up 

the tabernacle of the congregation there. 

Deut. xii, 5, 1 1, 14. 

Joshua xviii, 8; xix, 51; xxii, 9. 

Judges xviii, 31; xxi, 12, 19, 21. 

I Sam. i, 3, 9, 24; ii, 14; iii, 1-21; iv, 3-22; v; vi; vii. 

I Kings ii, 27; xiv, 2. 

Psalm Ixxviii, 60. 

Jer. vii, 12; xxvi, 6; xli, 5. 



PLATE XLII 

SHECHEM AND MOUNT GERIZIM 

Joshua And Joshua gathered all the tribes of Israel to 

xxiv, i. Shechem. 

Gen. xii, 6; xxxiii, 18; xxxvii, 12, 13, 14. 

Joshua xx, 7; xxi, 21; xxiv, I, 32. 

Judges ix, I, 7, 20, 23, 41, 57. 

I Kings xii, I, 25. 

Jer. vii, 12, 14; xxvi; xii, 5. 



PLATE XLIII 

THE OLD CODEX AT SHECHEM 

Joshua viii, And afterward he read all the words of the law, 
34- the blessings and the cursings, according to all 

that is written in the book of the law. 

Deut. xvii, 18. 

Joshua viii, 34. 

II Kings xxii, 8, 13. 

Mark xii, 10. 

Luke xxiv, 27; iv, 17-21. 

John v, 39, 46; vii, 42, 52. 



PLATE XLIV 



FROM MOUNT EBAL OVER SYCHAR, JACOB'S WELL, 
AND MOUNT GERIZIM 

Gen. xxxiii, 19. 
Deut. xi, 29; xxvii, 12. 
Joshua viii, 33. 
Judges ix, 7. 



PLATE XLV 



RUINS OVER THE SITE OF JACOB'S WELL 



PLATE XLVI 

SYCHAR, JACOB'S WELL, AND MOUNT GERIZIM 
John iv, 6. Now Jacob's well was there. 

John iv, 3-26. 
Isaiah xii, 3. 
Jer. ii, 13. 
Rev. xxi, 6. 



PLATE XLVII 

THE MIDST OF SAMARIA 

Luke xvii, And it came to pass as he went to Jerusalem 
ii- that he passed through the midst of Samaria. 

Isaiah xxviii, 
1-4. 

John iv, 4. 

Acts viii, i. 



PLATE XLVlll 

THE CITY OF SAMARIA (SEBASTE) 

I Kings xvi, And he bought the hill Samaria of Shemer . . 
2 4- and called the name of the city . . . Samaria. 

I Kings xvi, 32; xxii, 37; xx, I. 

II Kings vi, 24, 25; vii, I. 
Matt, ii, 12, 15, 16; xiv, I. 
Mark viii, 15; vi, 14-26. 
Luke iii, I, 19; ix, 7. 
Acts viii, 5. 



PLATE XLIX 

HEROD'S COLUMNS AT SAMARIA, OR SEBASTE 



PLATE L 

THE PLAIN OF JEZREEL 

I Sam. And Ahah rode and went to Jezreel. 

xxix, i. 

Judges i, 27. 

II Sam. ii, 9. 

I Kings xviii, 44, 45, 46; xxi, i. 

II Kings viii, 29; ix, 10-37; x i-n> xxiii, 29, 30. . 
Joshua xvn, 1 1, 16. 

II Chron. xxxv, 22. 



PLATE LI 

PLOUGHING IN THE PLAIN OF JEZREEL 

I Sam. xiv, A yoke of oxen might plough. 
14- 

Deut. xxii, 10. 

Job iv, 8; i, 14. 

Prov. xx, i. 

Isaiah xxviii, 24. 

Luke ix, 62. 

Acts ix, 5; v, ci; viii, G. 

I Cor. ix, 10. 

II Cor. vi, 14, 15, 16. 



PLATE Lll 



A JORDAN FORD 

II Kings v, Then he went down and dipped himself seven 
'4- times in Jordan. 

II Kings v, whole chapter. 

Judges vii, 24. 

Luke iv, 27. 

John i, 28; x, 40. '- 



PLATE Llll 

MOUNT TABOR FROM MOUNT CARMEL 

Judges iv, 6, 12-23; v '" 1 8. 
I Sam. x, 3; xxv, 2. 
I Kings xviii, 17-46. 
Psalm Ixxxix, 12. 
Cant, vii, 5. 
Jer. xlvi, 18. 



PLATE LIV 

NAZARETH FROM THE DAMASCUS ROAD 

Luke i\; 16. And he came to Nazareth where he had been 
brought up ... 

Judges xiii, 5. 

I Sam. i, ii. 

Matt, ii, 23; xxi, n. 

Mark i, 24; x, 47; xiv, 67. 

Luke i, 26; ii, 51; iv, 16, 34: xviii, 37; xxiv, 19. 

John i, 45; xviii, 5, 7; xix, 19. 

Acts ii, 22; iii, 6; iv, 10; vi, 14; xxii, 8. 



PLATE LV 

MARY'S WELL AT NAZARETH 



PLATE LVI 

NAZARETH TOWARD MOUNT CARMEL 



PLATE LVII 

CANA OF GALILEE 

John ii, i. And the third day there was a marriage in Cana 
of Galilee. 

John ii, i-n; iv, 46; xxi, 2. 
Joshua xix, 28. 



PLATE LVIII 

MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES 

Matt, v, i. And seeing a muhitude he went up into a 
mountain. 

Matt, v; vi; vn. 



PLATE LIX 

THE SEA OF GALILEE 

John vi, i. After these things Jesus went over the Sea of 
Galilee, which is the Sea of Tiberias. 

John xxi, i. 

Matt, viii, 23-27; xiv, 34. 
Mark iv, 36-41; v, i; vi, 47-51. 
Luke v, i. 



PLATE LX 

FISHERMEN CASTING THEIR NETS 

Matt.iv, 18. And Jesus walking by the Sea of Galilee saw 
two brethren, Simon called Peter, and Andrew 
his brother, casting a net into the sea : for they 
were fishers. 



Matt, iv, 18, 19, 20. 
Mark i, 16, 17. 
Luke v, i-u. 
John xxi. 



PLATE LXI 

OVER THE SEA TOWARD CAPERNAUM 
John vi, 17. Over the sea toward Capernaum. 

Matt, iv, 13; viii, 5; ix, i; xi, 23; xvii, 24. 
Mark ii, I. 

Luke iv, 23, 31; vii, i; viii, 22-25; x . 1 3- 
John ii, 12; vi, 17, 24, 59. 



PLATE LXII 

WHERE THE JORDAN ENTERS THE SEA OF GALILEE 

Matt, xiv, 13 ff. 
Mark vi, 34<f. 
Luke ix, 10 ff. 
John vi ff. 



PLATE LXII1 

UPPER JORDAN VALLEY 

Psalm xxin, 2. 
Ezek. xxxiv, 14. 





I 



PLATE LXIV 

BEDOUIN TENTS 

Judges vi,5. For they come up with their cattle and their 
tents. 

Gen. iv, 20. 



PLATE LXV 

THE WATERS OF MEROM AND MOUNT HERMON 
Joshua xi, 5-7 



PLATE LXVI 

STILL WATERS 

Psalm He leadeth me beside the still waters, 

xxiii, 2. 

Ezek. xxxiv, 11-15. 
Matt, xxv, 32. 
Rev. vii, 17. 



PLATE LXVII 

ROMAN BRIDGE OVER THE JORDAN 

Old Damascus Road near Dan 



PLATE LXVIII 

AN OAK TREE 

I Kings And went after the man of God, and found him 
xiii, 14. sitting under an oak. 

Gen. xxxv, 4, 8. 
Joshua xxiv, 26. 

II Sam. xviii, 9 ff. 
I Kings xiii, 14. 

I Chron. x, 12. 
Isaiah xliv, 14. 
Ezek. xxvii, 6. 
Hosea iv, 13. 



PLATE LXIX 



OLD ROMAN BRIDGE NEAR DAN 
(OESAREA PHILIPPI) 



Gen. xiv, 14. 
Deut. xxxiv, i. 
Judges xviii, 29, 30. 



PLATE LXX 

THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN 

Joshua Baal-gad under Mount Hurmon. 

xiii, 5. 

Joshua xi, 17; xii, 7. 
Judges iii, 3. 
Matt, xvi, 13-16. 
Mark viii, 27-29. 



PLATE LXXI 

DAMASCUS 

Gen. xv, 2. And Abram said, Lord God, what wilt thou give 
me, seeing I go childless, and the steward of my 
house is this Eliezer of Damascus? 

II Sam. viii, 6. 

I Kings xi, 23-35. 

II Kings v, 12; viii, 7; xiv, 28; xvi, 9-12. 
Isaiah vii, 8; viii, 4; xvii, 1-3. 

Ezek. xxvii, 18. 

Amos i, 3; v, 27. 

Acts ix, 1-27; xxii, 5-30; xxvi, 12. 

II Cor. xi, 32, 33. 

Gal. i, 17. 



PLATE LXXII 

SNOWY PEAKS OF MOUNT HERMON 

Psalm He giveth snow like wool, 

cxlvii, 16. 

Psalm li, 7; Ixxxix, 12; cxxxiii, 3. 

Deut. iii, 8, 9; iv, 48. 

Joshua xiii, 5, n. 

Song of Sol. iv, 8. 

Prov. xxv, 13. 

Isaiah i, 18; Iv, 10. 

Matt, xvii, 1-9. 

Mark ix, 2-10. 

Luke ix, 28-36. 



PLATE LXXIII 

MOUNT LEBANON 

Deut. iii, 25. I pray thee let me go over and see the good land 
that is beyond Jordan, that goodly mountain 
and Lebanon. 

Judges iii, 3. 

I Kings v, 14; vii, 2. 

II Kings xiv, 9. 
IlChron. ii, 8. 

Psalm xxix, 5, 6; Ixxii, 16; xcii, 12. 

Song of Sol. iii, 9. 

Isaiah x, 32; xxix, 17; xxxv, 2; xxxvii, 24; Ix, 13; xl, 16. 

Jer. XVHI, 14; xxn, 6. 

Zech. x, 10. 

Ezck. xxvii. 5. 



PLATE LXXIV 



THE HEART OF JERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT 
OF OLIVES 

Psalm Jerusalem is builded as a city that is compact 

cxxii, 3. together. 

Joshua xviii, 28. 
II Sam. v, 5, 7. 

I Kings iii, i; xi, 13. 

II Kings xxiii, 27. 
Neh. xi, I. 

Psalm xlviii; cxvi, 19. 

Isaiah Hi. 

Mai. iii, 4. 

Matt, xvi, 21; xxiii, 37-39. 

Luke ii, 22; xiii, 34, 35; xxi, 20; xxiv, 47-49. 

John iv, 20; xii, 12. 

Acts xxi, 31. 



PLATE LXXV 



THE MOSQUE OF OMAR ON THE SITE OF THE 
TEMPLE OF JERUSALEM 

Psalm Ixvii, 29. 

I Kings vi. 

II Chron. iii; iv; v. 



PLATE LXXVI 

THE DOME OF THE ROCK 

I Kings vi, 16; viii, 6-30. 

II Chron. ii, 1-4; v, 7-14. 
Ezek. xliii, 12. 

Joel iii, 17. 
Zech. viii, 3. 
Isaiah ii, 2, 3. 



PLATE LXXVII 

THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE 

Greek ceremony "washing of feet" at the door of the church 
on Easter Sunday 






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PLATE LXXVIII 

THE THRONG OF PILGRIMS AND OTHERS 

At the door of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
Easter morning 



PLATE LXXIX 

AN OLD HOUSE WITH AN UPPER CHAMBER 

Mark xiv, And he will show you a large 'upper room fur- 
I 5- nished and prepafed: there make ready for us. 

Matt, xxvi, 18-20. 
Luke xxii, 12. 
Acts i, 13. 



Luke ii, 7, Beneath the upper chamber there was a typi- 
I2 > 1 6- cal Syrian manger. 



PLATE LXXX 



COINS USED IN PALESTINE DURING THE TIME 
OF OUR LORD 

No. I. A silver denarius, or penny, of Tiberius, the tribute money 
payable by the Jews to the Roman emperor. Worth about 
seventeen cents, American money. 

No. 2. A silver denarius, or penny, of Augustus, also worth #0.17. 

No. 3. A silver shekel of Jerusalem, worth about $0.54, coined 

by Simon Maccabaeus about 140 B. C. 

The shekel in the Old Testament was an Assyrian weight of 
258 grains, while this silver shekel of Jerusalem weighs 220 
grains. On the obverse side is a chalice or cup of Manna, on 
the reverse a triple lily or Aaron's budding rod and the in- 
scription "Jerusalem the holy." 

Nos. 4 and 5 are "pieces of silver," so often mentioned, and are 

worth about $0.56$. "Thirty pieces of silver' 1 " were worth 

$16.96, the legal value of a slave if he were killed by a beast. 

Judas betrayed our Lord for #16.96. 

"Pieces of silver" in the Old Testament \vere not these coins, 

but weights of silver shaped like a lamb. 
These two coins date from 126 B. C. to 57 A. D. 

REFERENCES TO THE PENNY 

Matt, xviii, 28; xx, 2, 9; xxii, Lukevii, 41; x, 35. 

19-21. John xii, 5; vi, 7. 

Mark vi, 37; xii, 15-17; xiv, 5. Rev. vi, 6. 

REFERENCES TO "PIECES OF SILVER*' 

Gen. xx, 16; xxxiii, 19; xxxvii, Zech. xi, 12, 13. 

28; xlv, 22. Matt, xxvi, 15; xxvii, 9. 

Judges ix, 4; xvi, 5. Luke xv, 8. 

II Kings vi, 25. Acts xix, 19. 

REFERENCES TO THE SHEKEL 

Gen. xxiii, 15, 16. 

Ex. xxi, 32; xxx, 13, 15; xxxvii, 24. 

Lev. xxvii, 3-16, 25; v, 15. 

Num. iii, 47; Ezek. iv, 10; xlv, 12; Joshua vii, 21. 

Judges viii, 26; xvii, 2, 3, 10. 

I Sam. ix, 8. II Sam. xiv, 26. II Kings vii, I, 16, 18; xv, 20. 

I Chron. xxi, 25. Neh. v, 15; x, 32. 

Jer. xxxii, 9. Amos viii, 5. 

(Through the courtesy of the American Numismatic Society I 
was permitted to photograph these fine specimens of coins now 
in their museum in New York City.) 



PLATE LXXXI 

THE POOL OF BETHESDA 

John v, 2-9. A pool which is called Bethesda. 



PLATE LXXXII 

AN OLD STREET, JERUSALEM 
Song of Sol. iii, 2. 



PLATE LXXXIII 

THE WAILING PLACE OF THE JEWS, JERUSALEM 

Isaiah lix, We grope for the wall like the blind, and we 

10, u. grope as if we had no eyes: we roar all like 

bears, and mourn sore like doves: we look for 

judgment, but there is none; for salvation, but 

it is far off from us. 

* 

Isaiah xliv, 18; lix, 1 , 2. 
Deut. iv, 25-40. 



PLATE LXXXIV 

WEST WALL OF JERUSALEM 

Psalm xlviii. Mark ye well her bulwarks. 
12-14. 

Psalm Ixi, 3. 

Song of Sol. iv, 4. 

II Chron. xiv, 7; xxxii, 5. 



PLATE LXXXV 

POOL OF GIHON 

II Chron. This same Hezekiah also stopped the upper 
xxxii, 30. watercourse of Gihon. 

I Kings i, 33. 
Isaiah xxn, 9-11. 



PtATE LXXXVI 

SOUTH-EASTERN SLOPE OF MOUNT ZION 

Mount of Olives in the background, the milage of Siloam on the right, 
and the Valley of Ilinnam in the foreground. 

II Sam. v, 7. 

I Kings viii, I. 

Psalm xlviii; cxxxii, 13. 



PLATE LXXXVII 

THE VALLEY OF HINNOM, GEHENNA 

Joshua xv, 8. 

II Kings xxiii, 10. 

II Chron. xxviii, 3; xxxiii, 6. 

Jer. xix, 2-6; xxxii, 35. 

Matt, xxvi, 3. 



PLATE LXXXVIII 

THE POOL OF SILOAM 

Neh. iii, 15. 

John ix, whole chapter. 



PLATE LXXXIX 

THE TYROPCEAN VALLEY 

The Mosque of Aksa appearing above the city wall. 



PLATE XC 

THE KING'S DALE AND JOB'S WELL 

Kidron Valley nil the left, Job's Well in thf centre, Pulley of 
Hinnom on the right. 

II S;im. xv, 23; xvii, 17-19. 
Joshua xv, 7. 
I Kings i, 9. 



PLATE. XCI 



SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF THE TEMPLE WALL, 
LOOKING NORTH 



Kidron f'allt'y and the village of Siloam. 



II Sam. xv, 23. 
Luke xiii, 4. 



PLATE XCII 

THE SPRING OF MARY, OR THE VIRGIN'S WELL 

Joshua ix, 4, 13, 2:. 
Matt, ix, 17. 
Mark ii, 22. 
Luke v, 37, 38. 



PLATE XCMI 



THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT, LOOKING UP 
KIDRON VALLEY 

Joel iii, 2, Let the heathen be wakened, and come up to 
12- the valley of Jehoshaphat: for there will I sit 

to judge all the heathen round about. 

II Sam. xv, 23. 



PLATE XCIV 

THE GATE BEAUTIFUL, OR THE GOLDEN GATE 

Ezek. xliv, 1-3. 
John ix, 8. 
Acts iii, 2-10. 



PLATE XCV 



THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE AND THE CITY 
WALL OF JERUSALEM 

John xviii, i. 



PLATE XCVI 

THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE 

Matt, xxvi, 36. 
Mark xiv, 32. 
Luke xxii, 39. 
John xviii, I. 



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PLATE XCVII 

THE DAMASCUS GATE 

Heb. xiii, Wherefore Jesus also, that he might sanctify 
12- the people with his own blood, suffered without 

the gate. 

Micah i, 9. 
Amos v, 10, 12, is. 
Prov. xxxi, 23. 
Psalm Ixix, 12. 



PLATE XCVIII 

A GREEN HILL WITHOUT A CITY WALL 

Matt, xxvii, A place called Golgotha, that is to say, a place of 
33- a skull. 

Matt, xxvii, 34-53. 

Mark 22-38. 

Luke xxiii, 33-49. 

John i, 29; iii, 16; xii, 32; xix, 16-24. 

I Cor. v, 7. 

Heb. xiii, 12. 

I'salm Ixix, 16-21. 

Isaiah Ini, whole chapter. 

Rev. xxi, 6. 



PLATE XCIX 

GORDON'S TOMB 

Isaiah liii, And he made his grave with the wicked, and 
9- with the rich in his death. 

Matt, xxviii, 57-60. 
Mark xv, 43-47. 
Luke xxiii, 50-56. 
John xix, 38-42. 



PLATE C 

THE STONE ROLLED AWAY 

Luke xxiv, And they found the stone rolled away from the 
2 - sepulchre. 

Psalm xvi, 10. 

Matt, xxviii, 2. 

Mark xvi, 4. 

John ii, 19-22; vi, 39, 40, 44, 54; xi, 25; xx, I.* 

Acts xxvi, 23; ii, 23-32; xxvi, 18. 

Rom. iv, 26; vi, 4-10. 

I Cor. xv, 20-26; vi, 14. 

II Cor. iv, 14-18. 
James v, 15. 

Rev. xxi, 5, 6; xxii, whole chapter 



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