Campaigning Experiences In Rajpootana And Central India

CAMPAienfft EXPERIENCES

IN

EAJPOOTMA AND CENTBAL INDIA,

DURING THE

SUPPRESSION OF

1857-185i

BT

MES. HENKY DUBERLY,

APTHOB OP "A JOURNA1 KEPT DtmiNG THE RUSSIAN FAR/'

" "Pis I wno here attempt unusual strains,

Of hosteunsui '

Where India r-^ _

14 In brief, a brarftSihoice of t
Than now the ftjdnish bottoms have $
Ihd never floar
To do offence c

LONDON:

PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO.,
65, CORNHILL,

1859.

As one who, walking in the twilight gloom,
Hears round about him voices as it darkens,

And seeing not the forms from which they come,
Pauses from time to time, and turns and hearkens ;

So, walking here in twilight, oh ! my friends,
I hear your voices, softened by the distance,

And pause, and turn to listen as each sends
His words of friendship, kindness, and assistance

Perhaps on earth I never shall behold

With eye of sense your outward form and semblance :
Therefore to me ye never will grow old,

But live for ever young in my remembrance,

Never grow old, nor change, nor pass away !

Your gentle voices will flow on for ever,
When life grows bare and leafless with decay,

As through a leafless landscape flows a river.

Therefore I hope, as no unwelcome guest,
At your warm firesides, when the lamps are lighted,

To have my place reserved among the rest,
Nor stand as one unsought, or uninvited*

LONGFELLOW,

PREFACE,

As little idea can be gathered from the disconnected
letters published in the newspapers of the daily
adventures and occupations t of soldiers engaged in
an active campaign in India, I venture to put before
the public a faithful record of the services and
sufferings of one portion of the army occupied in
the suppression of the mutiny; and I trust that I
shall be pardoned if occasionally I am temptSd to
touch upon points which may seem beyond a woman's
province.

That which struck me most in India was the
great distance which still seems to separate that
country from England, and the necessity for draw-
ing them closer together. We frequently met with
persons high in rank, both civil and military, who
said, "I have not been home for twenty years:"
"it is now nearly thirty years I was in England."
To tbese ten, English thoughts and English ways

vi PREFACE,

are a sealed book ; they have remained in India until
they have almost ceased to be Englishmen; and
should they eventually go " home," they will find
themselves as it were in a foreign land, without
friends, and without an object to live for. Surely, if
some arrangement were made by which our country-
men in India could escape for a time to their native
air, without losing by the indulgence, the Govern-
ment would benefit by the additional energy they
would throw into their work after being invigorated
by the life-giving breezes of Scotch highlands and
English downs. Brigadier General Jacob, in his
pamphlet on "The Native Army of India, its Organi-
zation and Discipline," suggests a means by which
the number of sick furloughs might be materially
reduced, if not done away with. " Let us," he says,
"have recourse to a principle as old as the history

of man the institution of the Sabbath

My proposal is to give every officer every seventh
year to himself, if he wishes to avail himself of the
indulgence; to allow him, during that period, to
go wherever it might please him to go, whether
in India, or any other part of the world. To allow
him, during that year, to receive his full Indian
pay and allowances, to retain his staff appointment,
if he held one ; but, during his absence, not to

PREFACE. vii

receive the staff salary, which would go to the officer

who might officiate until his return

If an officer chose to allow his sabbath to pass by
and to wait until he had served twelve years, he
should be allowed two years' rest on furlough ; after
eighteen years' uninterrupted work, three years

should be allowed, and so on The

amount of vigour infused into India by this means

would be incredible The continual return

to England, and reflux into India of the tide of
Europeans, would be to the body moral and politic
exactly what the circulation of the blood would bo
to the animal body. ... * England would
be our lungs, the old blood would be there aerated,
and new life, health, and strength thereby sent
flowing vigorously to every corner and extremity
of our empire. Energy and health would take the
place of languor and disease."

How many prematurely old men with cadaverous
faces, sunken eyes, and hollow cheeks have we seen
to whom the sabbatical year would have been a
boon indeed !

Before any real good can be effected in India,
that country must be brought nearer to England.
The officers must have more frequent furloughs
on advantageous terms. Able men from England

viii PREFACE.

must be induced to travel through the country and
to accept some of the higher appointments, by re-
duced terms of service. The Company's rule has
done many good things, although not as many as
it might have done ; nor was their system free from
grave faults: but as for civilising, and educating,
and converting the natives of India, we must first
set an example of consistent Christianity ourselves,
We must show them that Englishmen, being Chris-
tians, cannot lie, deceive, bully, or oppress. And
when we throw our Christianity, and consequent
superiority, in their teeth on every occasion, we
must recollect that we are dealing with a people
whose religious faith actuates them every hour of
the day.

India presents a magnificent field for work, with
a prospect of vast and noble results ; and it is im-
possible not to feel the deepest interest in everything
connected with it ; but if we desire to maintain our
supremacy, it will not be enough to vindicate our
mastership by force of arms: we must also prove
our moral superiority, and make that superiority
an evident and incontrovertible fact.

OAMPJIGHIUG EXPERIENCES,

CHAPTER I.

"Look not mournfully into the past: it cometh not again.
Wisely improve the present ; it is thine. Go forth to meet
the shadowy future, without fear, and with a manly heart "

LONGFELLOW.

" The mighty wind arises, roaring seaward,
And I go/'

ON the llth May, 1856, the 8th K. R. L Hussars
disembarked at Portsmouth, to be inspected by the
Queen, on their return from the Crimea, and on
the 8th October, 1857, the magnificent steam-ship
Great Britain, John Gray, Captain, left Cork Har-
bour for Bombay, haying on board the 8th Hussars,
17th Lancers, and fifty men and several officers of
the 56th Regiment. The -wind, which had blown a
hurricane on the 7th, was still raging in our teeth
as we steamed out of Queenstown, and the l$avy,
confused sea made the ship labour hard to keep
hetr way, and sent us all to our cabins. The violent

B

2 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

rolling continued until we had passed the current
Tunning through, the Gut of Gibraltar. But as we
followed our southern course the sea became tran-
quil, and the manifold beauties of tropical days and
nights gradually unfolded themselves days all gold
and nights all silver* Our ship spread her white
wings and sailed slowly and gracefully over the
foam-flecked, sparkling waves. Each cavalry regi-
ment had brought its band, refreshed with new in-
struments since their return from the Crimea ; and
from half-past two until four o'clock their music
completed the luxury of the day. Life on board
ship becomes so listless and so objectless, that those
who have been accustomed to exercise and activity
usually suffer both in health and temper. Fortu-
nately for us there was no lack of books, for the
East India Company, with praiseworthy liberality,
had sent on board five hundred volumes for the use
of the troops, and the officers of each regiment had
previously provided themselves with a goodly store.

When the Great Britain had been ten days at sea
we came in sight of the Islands of the Gape de Verde,
where we stopped for two days and a half to take in
coals. Noah from the windows of the ark did not
look forward to being on land again >with greater
eagerness than we ; and like Noah we stood upon a
rock. St. Yincent is of volcanic formation; no
vegetation clothes it, no flowers bloom on it. Save
where the mists fold the rugged hills in gauzy drapery

A MAN OVERBOAED. 3

they stand scorched and bare, as though blasted by a
curse. The island is a large coal depdt^for steam-
ships, and the few inhabitants were all at work upon
the wharf. The English consul, sole European
resident, superintends the working of the coal-yards,
and judging from his appearance he is contented with
the station in which Providence has placed him. An
American sloop-of-war was lying in the centre of
the picturesque harbour, and a Sardinian merchant
steamer bound for Genoa came in from Eio Janeiro ;
she had on board one of the Princes Buonaparte,
mortally sick of consumption, who sent a message to
the Great Britain requesting medical aid. A depu-
tation of doctors, of whom we had eight, waited on
liim, and enforced his prayers to be put ashore. The
Sardinian skipper, doubtless with an eye to his effects,
resisted his removal to the utmost of his power, but
nevertheless the poor sufferer was committed to the
goodness of the English consul. The relief, however,
was too late ; for next morning, as we left the harbour^
the consular flag was floating half-mast high.

For the next fortnight one bright day wore away
as its predecessor had done, with sunshine, monotony,
and music, when suddenly as we were sitting dream-
ing on the after part of the deck, and the iaen for-
ward were amusing themselves with games mi
songs, the cry of " A man overboard ! " waa
T3j> from mouth to mouth, till, in an Instant, ii
few end to end of the ship. Rushing te the side,

4 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

we saw him flash by underneath the stern, and drift
away almost "before thought could suggest a life buoy.
Colonel Morris sprang to one, cut it loose, and flung
it over : but could the poor struggling wretch see it?
or seeing, could he reach it? The captain now
strode up the deck, and with him came hope. Has
enormous voice soared above the surging noise.
" Cram down the helm I " " Lower away the gig ! "
and down the boat went from her davits, like a live
thing, and manned by five hands soon reached the
drowning man. Soon in reality, but it appeared long
to us. The poor man was found floating on the life
buoy, and was hauled alive, but insensible, into the
boat, and brought on board in safety. He was a
soldier of the 14th Light Dragoons going out to join
his regiment, and having climbed into the rigging to
overlook the amusements on deck, he had missed his
footing, and so fell overboard.

Our captain had no intention of stopping at the
Cape of Good Hope, but wished, by standing away
towards the American coast, to fall in with the trade
winds., and so to pass some three or four hundred
miles south of the Cape. We did, in fact, stand over
until we neared the island of Trinidad, but the winds
would do nothing but coquette. One day they blew
shyly the next day not at all then they blew all
round our sails, filling them one moment and backing
them the nest: so that the heavy consumption of coal
rendered it imperative to take in a fresh supply, and

CAPE TOWN. 5

the ship's head was turned, with much grumbling on
the part of her officers, and great joy on that of the
troops, towards Table Bay, where we cast anchor
on the 17th November, thirty-eight days from Eng-
land. "We had heard so much of the heavy seas that
run into this anchorage, and of the difficulty of
getting to and from the shore, that our anticipations
were a good deal damped when on the evening before
our arrival the wind blew stiffly from the north-west.
But the next morning neither wind nor swell ruffled
the calm surface of the sea, and every one of the
officers, except the few detained on duty, went ashore.
Cape Town was the first English colony I had ever
seen, and I was agreeably surprised at the half-
foreign, half-English aspect of the place. There
were Dutch-built houses surrounded by English
railings, and pretty gardens with pomegranate hedge-
rows. The streets looked painfully new and un-
finished, but the trees planted before the houses gave
a pleasant aspect to the 'town. There were hotels
kept on English principles by Dutch landlords, Han-
som cabs driven by Caffres, with their heads tied uj
in pocket-handkerchiefs, or dressed in wide-awakes
with plumes of ostrich feathers while coming it
from the country were the teams of mules, and th
famous spans of bullocks, often twenty in a spa$
driven with the stock-whip, which long and litfee&s
a salmon-rod rarely touches its victim ,wMiou-
leaving a crimson trace Oaffre women with rece-

6 CAMPAIGNING EXPEEIEKCES.

ding foreheads and projecting mouths English
settlers riding into town like gentlemen-farmers on a
market day, or driving in shegmms with a pair of
horses harnessed curricle fasjuon. As we wished
to see something of the country, riding and driving
parties were quickly organized* We "selected a nice-
looking barouche, with four fresh, well-matched little
Cape horses, and were soon flying through clouds of
dust along a broad and sandy road, with an English
turnpike (toll one shilling), and so away into the
country, our pretty leaders playing and biting at each
other as they sprang along. We shot past hedgerows
of cactus, some bearing a pink and others a yellow
flower past pomegranates with their scarlet bells
past stiff and stately aloes, and little wax-like heather
past English houses buried in deep foliage past
little fair-haired, blue-eyed children, playing with
little natives black as coals past a poor, blind black
beggar, sitting with uncovered head like blind Barti-
meus by the wayside and at last going up one
sharp hill at a gallop and down another at a trot,
we came to the level plain and the smooth lawns on,
which stand Mr. Cloete's house and the vineyard of
Constantia, We inspected the large vats ranged
round rooms on the ground floor, tasted and bought
some wine, and wandered into the garden to gather
the magnificent oranges from the overloaded trees.
We afterwards proceeded to " Deep river," where we
found a large and comfortable country hotel, and saw

CONSTA^TIA. 7

a famous old Cape horse, formerly the wender of Ms
time, and even now a beautiful animal, and also one
or two foxhounds, part of the pack which the Irish
stable-keeper told us was farmed out during the sum-
mer months. It was difficult, on the 17th November,
to take in the idea of hounds being farmed out for the
summer, bat at the Cape, Christmas Day is often the
hottest of the year. I filled my hands with oleanders,
lilies, pomegranates, arums, and roses, and twined a
wreath of passion-flowers amongst the feathers of my
hat We then resumed our places in the carriage,
and as it was verging towards evening we returned
to Cape Town, not forgetting fc Bartimeus " as we
passed. Our driver did not bait his horses the whole
day, nor even wash out their mouths. I suggested
it to him, but he said it was not the custom ; and how-
ever long the journey, the horse was never refreshed
until it was over. At the tabk d'Mte at Parke's
Hotel, where we dined, we met some officers of the
98th, bound to Kurrachee, landed from on board the
steam-ship Ireland, which had been fifty-four days
out. Wo spent two whole days on shore, and the
second we devoted to riding round the Table Moun-
tain, and enjoying, as much as the intolerable dust
would permit, the lovely and extensive view of sea
and land. In the harbour was every imaginable
species of craft, from the Himalaya to the light fisb-
iag barque of Cape Town. The Great Britain and
had never been side by side before, and

8 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

owing to the tremendous spars and heavy rigging of
the Great Britain, site, although in reality some few
feet shorter, appeared the larger of the two.

" Oh how yon argosies, with portly sail,
lake signiors and rich burghers of the flood
Or, as it were, the pageants of the sea,
Did overpeer the petty traffickers
That curtsied to them reverence,
As they flew by them with their woven wings."

The inland view, when we could clear out our
eyes to see it, was extensive and fine, and the flowers
most fragrant and refreshing; but the strong wind
and storms of dust made us glad to hasten to our
Inn, where I found, on consulting my glass, that my
hair and face were of an uniform trick red. We
afterwards went to the stables of Mr. Kaien Meyer,
from which our horses of this and the previous day
had been furnished. He showed us a fine three-year
old bright bay horse, over fifteen hands, and very
powerful. "We were half inclined to purchase, but
considering the risk of transport to Bombay and
the long price asked, we thought it, more prudent
to decline a decision we had afterwards no cause
to regret. The next morning we were awakened
by the rain beating heavily against our windows.
As the Great Britain was to go out of Table Bay
at twelve o'clock, it was important to lose no time
in engaging a large and sea-worthy boat, for the
waves often rise to such an extent as to render it
impossible to leave the shore. Many a captain of

DANGE110TJS EMBABCATION. 9

a vessel has stood on the pier and seen his ship
standing out to sea, to avoid being driven on the
rocks, while he has offered 100?. or even 200Z. to
the boatmen to put him on board; and offered it
in vain. The wind and the sea were both much
rougher than was pleasant ; but we fortunately fell
in with some of our friends who had engaged a large
sailing-boat, and we secured two places in her.
We sprang into the boat, from the pier-head, as she
rose on the waves, and after some little confusion,
got under weigh. We went on very well for those
who like boating in a storm, which I confess I do
not, until we neared the ship, when the danger of
keeping the boat alongside the gangway ladder, and
the difficulty of springing from the gunwale of the
boat to the ladder, called into requisition all one's
self-control. However/ at last all were safely re-
embarked, though not without some very narrow
escapes ; and we then hove anchor, and put out into
a rough and disagreeable sea.

The Himalaya, which had been sent to the Cape
from Bombay for a cargo of horses for the use of
the troops, brought the tidings of the fall of Delhi.
We had been so long tinable to obtain Indian news,
that we felt inclined to overrate the value of what
now reached us. We fancied that with the taking
of Delhi the chief part of the mutiny was crushed,
and that the rebels would never attempt resistance
any more* To the seekers for military distinction,

12 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

present : the contemplation of the ^present braced
my spirits, and I gradually learnt to unwind my
heart from England, to which it had for a second
time hegun to cling, and to allow it to anticipate
its Indian future. To England shall I ever again
return? "Was my last short sojourn there but the
opening chord of a nunc dimittis, bidding me depart
in peace from it for ever ? My house there is set
in order : the rest is at the ordering of Him cc who
holdeth our lives in His hand."

In spite of the sunshine, three days before our
arrival at Bombay, a gloom fell upon us, owing to
the death of one of the men of the 17th Lancers
from rheumatism affecting the heart. Up to a late
hour on the previous evening, the doctors entertained
a hope that he would recover, or, at jany rate, linger
for some time; but at five o'clock the following
morning he expired, and was buried between ten
and eleven o'clock the same day. The quiet of the
calm and shining sea robbed his grave of its horror.
This was the first and only casualty of our otherwise
prosperous voyage. Throughout his burial day the
wind was calm and the sea at rest. Next morning,
a very strong breeze sprang up from the north-east,
dead ahead of the ship, retarding her way so much
that all hope of saving the Bombay mail, which we
believed left on the 17th, was at an end. The
captain was extremely desirous to reach Bombay
before its departure, in order that his ship might be

ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY. 13

reported at Lloyd's as having arrived. In that
event, she would have made her outward voyage in
seventy days, which she was bound under heavy
penalties to do. On Tuesday evening, after we had
abandoned all expectation of reaching Bombay on
the Thursday, the wind dropped, and the sea grew
calm. Every furnace (eighteen, I believe) was
a-light ; the ship throbbed from stem to stern, like
an over-driven horse ; her waste pipes gasped and
sobbed, and every yard was braced up, so as to
offer least resistance to the air. After dinner, the
health of Captain Gray was given with many just
expressions of regard, and the cheers from the saloon
were taken up by the men on deck. The ship still
strained and panted forwards, making such good way
during the night, that at breakfast next morning,
we were greeted with the cheerful news, " We shall
drop anchor in Bombay Harbour this afternoon at
four o'clock ; completing our voyage in seventy days
from England, and sixty-four under steam." The
Indian shore lay on our starboard side red, arid,
parched, and bare. We traced it with interest all
the morning, following its outlines on the chart.
About half-past two, we came in sight of Bombay,
and also of the ship Arabia, Captain Forrest, an
old Crimean friend, which was lying becalmed, with
her head towards Bombay. About three o'ckck,
we took a pilot on board, and soon after four were
at anchor in the harbour, and learnt to our great

16 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

too much, prostrated with pain and weakness to
sit in my saddle, or to endure the motion of a car-
riage. My first impression on entering Bombay was
one of disappointment One saw nothing but native
houses with wooden fronts and deep projecting roofs
leaning over unpaved streets ; and open shops, as in
a Turkish bazar, with here and there the funniest
Parsee names, written in English characters. Nearly
all the English residents live outside the town, on
Malabar Hill, in bungalows, more or less capacious
and handsome. The part of Bombay near the sea
is strongly fortified; and immediately outside the
fort is the esplanade where the 8th Hussars, and the
95th Kegiment, were encamped. This is the place
of fashionable resort, where from half-past four until
seven o'clock may be seen every equipage and horse
in Bombay, and some of the latter are magnificent.
Near the esplanade is a large native quarter, densely
populated and very squalid. In the country just
beyond are the Byculla Club, the church, the race-
course, and the houses of the wealthy merchants,
both English and Parsee.

The officers of the 17th Lancers, during the few
hours which they spent in Bombay prevfous to their
departure for Kirkee, endeavoured at any cost to
provide themselves with horses. Never had the
native dealers such a golden harvest. " A thousand
rupees," et two thousand rupees," were words familiar
to their mouths ; so much so, that they forgot all

BOMBAY HORSEDEALEES. 17

intermediate numerals. The enormous demand and
the very inadequate supply, enabled them to obtain
almost any price they liked to ask.

The soldiers encamped on the esplanade are loud
in their praises of Indian life. The large roomy
tents, and numerous native servants, contrast plea-
santly enough with their Crimean experiences. The
officers' tents, double-walled and roofed, with a bath-
room adjoining and grass or wire-woven doors,
appear to possess every means of comfort, and at
this present season, the 28th December, the climate
is absolutely perfect. The mornings and evenings
are cool and breezy, noonday is excessively hot ; and
during the few days we have as yet passed in India,
I have not seen a cloud. The glory of the sunsets
fills the mind with wonder and admiration ; nor can
I feel astonished at the Parsee who prostrates him-
self on the sea-shore, with his face towards the
declining sun. The number of servants requisite to
form a moderate Indian establishment differs very
materially from English notions. We found it neces-
sary to engage a head servant or butler, who is in
fact the house-steward, and provides for the house-
hold and horses; a second servant or bearer, who
attends to the master as personal servant^ and waits
at table with the butler ; a cook ; a mapaul, who
cleans lamps, plates, knives and forks ; a bheestie,
or water-carrier : a dhobie, or washerman ; a dir&ee,
or tailor, to repair the ruthless damages done by the

18 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

dhobie; a tent lascar, to pitch tlie tent; a gari-
wallah, to drive the covered bullock shegrum, which
it is necessary to have for going out in the sun ; and,
lastly, a ghorawallah for each horse. I could not
understand at first how so large an establishment
would be transported on the march, but time, which
teaches many things, showed me that without each
and every man of them, it was nest to impossible to
move at all: and in India an army of 10,000 men is
reckoned to have not less than 30,000 camp fol-
lowers a number which would have astonished
Julius Caesar.

A thermometer showing 80? at noon made us
almost doubt the possibility of its being New Year's
Day, with which our associations are of clear frosty
atmosphere and ice-bound ponds and fields. Every
bell on shore and in harbour kept up a merry peal,
and the guns of the fort saluted at daybreak. How
little we thought as the last new year dawned upon us
through clouds and nipping wind, that before another
came we should be basking beneath an Indian sun.

But

"All that moveth doth in change delight."

And now that the voyage is over, I cannot but be
glad that this new phase of life opens before me. We
are at present established in the lines of the regiment
on the esplanade, in a large double-walled and
double-roofed tent, sixteen feet long by fourteen
wide, which, with carpets, arm-chairs, tables, lamps,

LIFE IN A TENT- 19

and a pianoforte, is comfortable enough. Opening
from this is a baychuba, or tent without a pole, fitted
up as a sleeping-room, while beyond the baychnba
and also opening into it, is the bath-room. The
servants' tents are pitched in the rear, and the horses
are picketted close by. Each horse has his own.
ghorawallah, or syce (Anglice groom), sitting near
his head all day and sleeping close to him at night.
The Arab horses are, with few exceptions, as tame as
English pet dogs: they never start back from the
hand as do English horses reared in stalk and badly
treated by their grooms, nor do they object to the
handling of their hind legs, by which they are
hobbled,

In our search for horses we have had to visit the
various dealers' yards. We went first to Mahomet
Bouker's stables, where upwards of a thousand
horses were ranged under open sheds. These, how-
ever, were of inferior caste, and had already been
selected for the ranks of various regiments* A
large-boned chesnut horse hid in a dark corner
caught our attention. ee His price is a thousand
rupees," said the courteous Mahomet ; * ff shall I have
him run out for you ? " He appeared accordingly, and
was such a veteran that we could not refrain frona
laughing at the estimate placed on our knowledge of
horseflesh; so we bowed, and walked out of the ymL
Our next visit was to Dhady, whose horses, fewqr in
number, were mostly new arrivals from

o 2

20 CAMPAIGNING

and in very poor condition. Of him we purchased
" The Pearl." Fukergee's stables, consisting of rows
of loose "boxes, next claimed our attention, and several
horses were examined and tried without success,
until one day he brought "The Kajah" down to
camp.

My husband's stud, which is now complete, con-
sists of "The Kajah," his first charger, a very
handsome mottled Arab four-year old, with black
mane and tail, as full of tricks as a monkey, and half
inclined, if not well managed, to become vicious;
his second charger, a strong white Arab, which
speedily became a great favourite a powerful dark
iron grey, with large, black, good-tempered eyes,
and the sweetest disposition in the world, which soon
learnt to know his name of " Prince," and of which
I immediately took possession for my own riding;
and lastly, my little nutmeg grey, deservedly called
" The Pearl," slight, wiry, active, showy, foil of life
and fire, of which I am the more proud, as I broke
him in myself, and no one else has ever been upon
his back

A few nights after our arrival we were invited by
a Parsee merchant of some consideration to a nautch,
given in honour of his son's wedding; and, being
curious as to the customs of the richer natives, we ac-
cepted the invitation and went at about ten P.M. We
drove to the entrance of a courtyard, which was roofed
in with drapery of white cloth, spangled with stars,

A NATIVE ENTERTAINMENT. 21

and hung with gold tinsel fringe. On a raised plat-
form was the band of the 8th Hussars, lent for the
occasion. Ascending the staircase, we found our-
selves in a long room, beautifully lighted by numerous
chandeliers; round the walls were ranged nearly a
hundred guests, Mussulmans, Hindoos, Parsees, and
a few Englishmen. The natives were dressed in
white, with gorgeous turbans, each guest holding a
bouquet and a fan. The effect of these gay colours
was light and happy to a great degree, and con-
trasted well with our heavy uniforms, fastened to the
chin, and ponderous with gold lace. As soon as we
arrived we were sprinkled with rose-water and pre-
sented with betel-nut, a bouquet, and a fan. The
Hussar band speedily ceased playing, and the nautch
dancers took possession of the floor. Two young

JL / O

women, in magnificent dresses, with diamond rings
in their noses and silver anklets, commenced a slow
and monotonous dance, marking time by a nasal song,
most disagreeable to the ear. They were accom-
panied by two men, one playing a kind of banjo, and
the other beating a tom-tom. There was neither
grace in the dance nor harmony in the song. The
whole entertainment was hot and tedious; and we
left soon after midnight, in spite of the protestations
of our host that the dancing would continue uirtil
four or five o'clock. Several Parsees present con-
versed with me in English, and one evinced curiosity
to know if the spectacle I was witnessing bore any

22 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

resemblance to an English ball. On mentioning this
to a friend a day or two after, I was told that at one
of the Governor's balls a Hindoo, after watching the
dancers for some time, expressed his intention of
" sending to England for a ball." He imagined that
the guests were exhibitors for money, and that he
could purchase some equally good for a specified
outlay.

Shortly before our arrival at Bombay, two sepoys
of the Native Infantry stationed there had been
blown away from guns, and a third was transported
for life. As far as we can judge, the disaffection
does not appear likely to spread the rebels being
overawed by the rapid arrival of European troops.
At the time these two executions took place, the
English military force in Bombay did not exceed two
hundred men, while a regiment of Native Infantry,
numbering eleven hundred, was encamped on the
esplanade. The two hundred, however, proved suffi-
cient to maintain order until reinforcements, hastily
sent for to the Mauritius and elsewhere, arrived, Of
course, various opinions are expressed by the resi-
dents. Some imagine that the mutineers are only
awaiting the dispersion of the troops to rise en masse
and murder every English man, woman, and child in
Bombay; while others maintain that the disaffection
is purely military, and is even now crushed, as far as
Bombay is concerned* In the midst of these con-
flicting hopes and fears, an unexpected demonstration

PABSEE LOYALTY. 23

lias been made in our favour by the wealthy Parsee
residents and merchants, headed by Cursetjee Je-
jeebhoy, the eldest son of Sir Jamsetjee. The whole
rf the newly-arrived English forces, officers and men,
together with the Governor, the Commander-in-Chief,
and all the principal officers, civil, military, and naval,
have been invited to a vast banquet on the esplanade.
A line of lofty tents, extending for more than a
quarter of a mile, and surrounded by temporary-
walls, has been erected for the banquet, and another
range of the same extent for the ball-room and
supper. The invitation was accepted without much
cordiality on the part of the troops, who cannot un-
derstand accepting an entertainment from the natives
of a country, the soil of which is stained with the
blood of English men, women, and children.

Upwards of two thousand men and officers sat
down to dinner. All woro either swords or side-
arms ; and a strong guard was left in camp. The
speeches made during the entertainment by the Par-
sees were most friendly, and I wish I had space to
record that of Lord Elphinstone,

No ladies were invited to the dinner; but when
the tents appropriated to dancing were thrown open,
I was astonished and surprised at their scanty attend-
ance. Amongst the throng of Englishmen, French,
naval officers, and Americans^ there was scaa2fely a
score of ladies, and these I know had hard buttles to
fight with the prejudices of tlte rest of tk$ female

24 CAMPAIGNING EXPEKIENCES.

community. I fancy a fear of losing caste in society,
or offending against some ill-defined point of etiquette,
deterred many. For on all questions of etiquette the
Indian ladies are particular to a curious and amusing
degree. The pertinacity with which claims for pre-
cedence are maintained, where there is not a shade
of difference in the rank, or rather no rank, of the
guests, is very entertaining to a new comer. I am
told that it is often most difficult to give precedence
to one without direfully offending all the rest. Ac-
cording to the custom here, the lady who takes
precedence must be the first to break up the party ;
and until she leaves no other guest can quit the
room." I witnessed an amusing instance of the con-
sequences of this stringent law. We were dining at
a friend's house, when a lady was taken suddenly ill.
The " senior lady" (in regimental phrase) had shown
no symptoms of departure. The case was urgent.
The mistress of the house represented it; and the
difficulty was solved by the lady who took precedence
rising and making her adieux; but as her carriage
was not in waiting, she retired to the empty dining-
room, where she sat in state in the dark until it
arrived !

Notwithstanding their strict obedience to etiquette,
I cannot say that I found the manners of my fellow-
countrywomen in India characterized by real polite-
ness. On one occasion we were dining at the house
of the highest person in the presidency, himself re-

ANGLO-INDIAN POLITENESS. 25

markable for his courtesy. The guests, about seventy
in number, were nearly all strangers to me; and
during that triste period after dinner devoted by the
ladies to the exclusive enjoyment of each other's
society, I heard the question asked across the room,
" Which is Mrs. Duberly?" and as loudly replied to
by, cc There she is, sitting on the sofa, in pink," with
the comment from a third of, CC 01;! is that the
Crimean heroine ? " while two young ladies shifted
their chairs, in order to take an inventory of me at
their leisure.

Intelligence from the interior reaches us very
much as the Crimean news did at Balaklava, viz.,
through the columns of the English newspapers.
Neither the local papers nor the people of Bombay
appear to give themselves much concern about the
turmoil of the northern states. Balls and dinner
parties succeed each other rapidly; and I never
remember to have seen a more beautiful ball-room,
or one better adapted to its purpose, than that at
Bombay.

Our stay hero will be no longer than is necessary
to enable us to procure tents, servants, and a few
horses for the officers and men, as we have received
final orders to embark for Mandavee, in Cutch, on
Saturday, 23rd January. The Calcutta papers, re-
ceived on the 22nd, contain an account of the apeeep-
tion of the wounded men and widows and orphans
from Lucknow. A royal salute was fired in their

26 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

honour; and they were met on' landing by sympa-
thizing crowds, eager with their offers of shelter and
assistance. Too late! too late! no sympathy can
heal such wounds, no friendship can restore the
murdered dead. When I think upon this terrible
insurrection, and recollect how deeply the rebels
have stained themselves with English blood, the
blood of English women and of little helpless chil-
dren, I can only look forward with awe to the day of
vengeance, when our hands shall be dipped in the
blood of our enemies, and the tongues of our dogs
shall be red through the same.

On Thursday the 21st, the heavy baggage, mess-
storesj &c., were embarked. On Friday, the horses
and the rest of the baggage followed ; and on Satur-
day we went on board the steam-ship Khersonese,
and at four o'clock in the afternoon, after Lieut. -CoL
"Wilmer, who was found to be suffering from small-
pox, had been put on shore, we took the Persia in
tow, and steamed out of Bombay harbour, bound for
Mandavee,

27

CHAPTER III.

" What mortal in the world, if without inward calling he take
up a trade, an art, or any other mode of life, will not find his
situation miserable ? But he who is born with capacities for any
undertaking, finds in executing it the fairest portion of his being.
Nothing upon earth without its difficulties! It is the secret
impulse within, it is the love and delight we feel, that help us to
conquer obstacles, to clear out new paths, to overleap the bounds
of that narrow cucle in which others poorly toil "

WILHELM MEISTER.

WE liad watched most anxiously for tlie mail which
was due on the 2 2nd of January, but it did not arrive
before we left Bombay. Unless delayed by an acci-
dent tho steam-boat must have come in a few hours
afterwards, so that the disappointment was doubly
keen. How little can the daily letter-writers of
England imagine the eagerness with which exiles in
a far country look forward to the arrival of the post,
bringing them news from home. To us letters from
England are like voices from another world.

Bombay Harbour lay serene in the evening twi-
light as we sat on deck and watched ttntil we couH
no longer discern the houses and the caifoedraLtwer.
Fatigue drove me early to my cabin : bat not to
sleep. We had been late in going OM board, and

28 CAMPAIGNING EXPEB1ENCES.

found that the only vacant cabin- was the one next to
that from which poor Colonel Wilmer had been
removed. I went into it, not without a shiver and
the thought of small-pox, combined with extreme
fatigue and the attacks of hordes of ferocious insects,
deprived me of all sleep. Next morning a head wind
sprang up, retarding our course very seriously. In
addition to the smoke from the funnel sweeping over
the after-part of the vessel, and filling our lungs
with gas, we found the crowds of native servants and
camp followers who encumbered the decks anything
but fragrant. The Persia, a ship of 1,700 tons, was
a sad drag on engines not over strong ; and what with
bad cooking, undrinkable tea, and detestable wine,
we experienced as many disagreeables as could well
be crammed into so short a voyage. On the morning
of Wednesday the 27th, we were shown a long line of
flat sandy coast, with a small town on the shore, appa-
rently distant about nine or ten miles. "We watched it
assiduously from nine A. M. until three p. M., but with-
out making any perceptible approach. The current
and the wind were strong against us ; and the water
was so shallow that both ships were compelled to sound
incessantly. About half-past four o'clock we cast
anchor two miles from the shore, but at that distance
it was too late to commence disembarking horses.
Next morning business began in earnest, but several
men and officers, and nearly all the horses, remained
on board that night also. At one time it was intended

DANGEROUS LANDING. 29

to send us to Gogeh,-a seaport in the Gulf of Cambay,
but the landing there proved to be even worse than
at Mandavee. We found that there would be no
difficulty as to transport as far as Bhooj, thirty-six
miles distant, and to that place the dismounted
squadrons were to march on foot.

On Friday, the 29th January, may be said to have
commenced our Indian campaign. We left the
lUiersonese in a large native boat, with several of the
soldiers. It was very rough, and the old boat, which
must have been built time out of mind, lurched and
groaned to a surprising extent. It did not reassure
us to hear that a hundred and fifty pilgrims had been
drowned two days before out of a similar boat ; how-
ever, after a great deal of screaming and jabber on
the part of the native crew, we stuck fast on a sand-
bant, and were carried to the beach. The landing is
so bad for horse-boats at this place that a whole boat-
load, arriving after the turn of the tide, were knock-
ing about all night; unfortunately our horses were of
the number, and as none of them had been fed since
the previous morning, we found them on our arrival
in camp in a great state of exhaustion, and indeed
one was so weak that we feared for his life. Our
tents were pitched upon the sea-shore, in deep sand,
which was all very well for the transport camels, but
very disagreeable to us. I was particularly stock
with the difference between an Indian town and the
cities I had previously seen in European and Asiatic

30 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

Turkey. A traveller who has seen one Turkish town
has seen them alL The same narrow and filthy
streets, the same figures sitting in the same attitude,
in large open shop windows, shaded by a lifted
shutter stretching across the street, the same cats and
dogs, and the same graceful minarets that are in Con-
stantinople, may he seen more or less in every Turkish
town.

The aspect of an Indian town is different; the
domed temple of the Hindoo stands out in greater
prominence than the airy minaret of the Mussulman.
Hideous little carved gods, daubed with red paint,
are exposed to public view in wayside temples, like
the shrines of the Virgin and the Saints in a Con-
tinental town. On certain days these idols are fresh
painted and dressed in fine clothes; when devout
worshippers appear with mud and rice upon their
foreheads, or with bars of white and red mud upon
their cheeks. This mud, which comes, I believe,
from the Ganges, the Sacred River, is worn as a
religious emblem, and is hard to reconcile with our
European ideas of beautiful adornment. The greater
part of the inhabitants of Mandavee are Banyans
and Jains, whose creed forbids the destruction of life.
No living creature is destroyed in the town. The
fish near it swim unconscious of the hook; cows,
being sacred, are of course exempt from injury;
whoever shoots a peacock must pay a fine of 500
rupees, or 5QL Parrots, hawks, crows, and sheep

KINDNESS TO ANIMALS. 31

all live as long as nature will permit; but at a
village a few miles distant, sheep, fowls, and fish,
are purchaseable. The hawks, conscious of security,
come swooping over the camp kitchens, and carry-
off pieces of meat, almost from between the fingers
of the cooks. At Bombay there is a hospital close
to the sea for maimed, diseased, or aged animals,
whither they are brought to await the approach of
death. Horses, and other animals, suffering from
whatever cause, are there left to linger until nature
puts a period to their pain, instead of being merci-
fully and instantaneously destroyed. The principle
is good, which teaches men to refrain from talcing
God's great gift of life ; but I saw enough of animal
suffering in the Crimea, to teach me that death is
often the greater blessing. In consequence of this
local protection the neighbourhood of Mandavee
abounds in game of almost every kind. The Rao of
Cutch has a dirty-looking and dilapidated palace
here in which his eldest son occasionally resides.
Writing of palaces reminds me of something we
heard when at Bombay regarding the capture of
Delhi. The army which took the place after fearful
loss and great hardships, imagined that when the
city fell, everything in it would be theirs. Great
was their surprise and disappointment when they
found that plunder was most strictly forbidden,
and that instead of booty each man was to re-
ceive a few extra rupees. The consequence was

32 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

that chalk inscriptions were scrawled all over the
town :

"DELHI TAKEN,
AND INDIA SATED, EOR TWENTY EUPEES."

When we heard of the fall of Delhi from the
officers of the Himalaya, the news kindled the war-
like enthusiasm of officers and men. It was ima-
gined that the Avenger would complete Ms work,
and that not a trace would be left of the city to show
future generations where it stood. As they walked
the deck, and discussed the news in groups, one of
them gave utterance to the following lurid words,
which, with all their savage imagery of the days of
Tilley and Wallenstein, still seemed to find an echo
in most soldiers' hearts :

:e When the breach was open laid,

Bold we mounted to the attack ;
Five times the assault was made ;

Four times we were driven back j
But the fifth time, up we strode

O'er the dying and the dead,
Red the western sunbeams glowed,

Sinking in a blaze of red.
Redder in the gory way

Our deep plashing footsteps sank,
As the cry of < Slay slay slay 1 '

Echoed fierce from rank to rank.
And we slew, and slew, and slew

Slew them with unpitying sword.
Negligently could we do

The commanding of the Lord ?

THE DAY OF VENGEANCE. 33

Fled the coward, fought the brave,

"Wept the widow, wailed the child,
But there did not 'scape the glaive

Man that frowned, or babe that smiled.
There were thrice ten thousand men

When that morning's snn arose;
Lived not thrice three hundred when

Sunk that sun at evening's close.
Then we spread the wasting flame,

Fed to fury by the wind ;
Of the city but the name,

Nothing else, remained behind.
But it burned not till it gave

All it had to yield of spoil
Should not brave soldadoes have

Some rewarding for their toil?
What the villein sons of trade

Earned by years of toil and care,
Prostrate at our bidding laid,

In one moment won was there.
Hall and palace, dome and tower,

Lowly cot and soaring spire,
Sank m that victorious hour

Which consigned the town to fire.
Then throughout the burning town,

'Mid the steaming heaps of dead,
Cheered by sound of hostile moan,

We the gorgeous banquet spread:
Laughing loud and quaffing long,

At our glorious labour o'er,
To the skies our jocund song

Told that Magdeburg was no morel " *

I shudder as I write these terrible lines. Alas I for
the horrors of Cawnpore 3 and for the retribution
which must avenge them !

* Dr, MCGINN'S Taking of Magdeburg,

34 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

CHAPTER IV.

" In the world's broad field of battle,

In the bivouac of life,
Be not like dumb driven cattle
Be a hero in the strife."

LONGFELLOW

" Quale per incertam lunam sub luce maligna
Estiter."

AT midnight on Sunday, 31st January, the
sounded, and by two o'clock the regiment began
its march. The mounted column first, then the
treasure-chest on a tumbril, escorted by the dis-
mounted men, the whole followed by an incredible
train of bullock-waggons and camels laden with
baggage. The full moon enabled us to follow the
track through a very ugly country; but the wind
was extremely cold, and we all hailed the rising sun
with satisfaction. Camp was pitched near the village
of Bara-Assumbia about nine o'clock, and breakfast
followed as speedily as might be* The moat energetic
of the officers took their guns, and started in quest
of game-. During these very early days of marching,
before we had become accustomed to it, the mess-
dinner was at two o'clock, and the mess-tent, and

THE FIRST MARCH. 35

all others that could be spared, were struck at four,
and sent on overnight to the next halting-place, in
charge of an officer and an advance party. The
object aimed at by this arrangement was to have
the tents so sent forward pitched before the regiment
canie in from the march, that there might be no
delay for breakfast ; but as the officers selected
never marked out the camp until the arrival of the
colonel, the plan turned out a failure. Next morning
reveillfo sounded at two A.M., and we started at four.
This was a more adventurous inarch; for as the
tumbril and baggage guards were unable to keep
up with the column, at a point where the tracks
became intricate, they lost their road, not easily
discernible in moonlight, and the whole of the long
train of baggage went astray. My husband and I
were riding in the rear, and we started in different
directions, in the hope of finding either the column
or the road. In about an hour and a half, a track
was discovered, which to our joy proved to be the
right one, and, after much bumping and jolting
over deep ruts and uneven ground, and many escapes
from falling into holes and nullahs, the train of
carts and camels eventually reached Naigpoor, aboistffc
two hours after the column. Shooting was resulted
with unabated vigour, several officers, wlio ted
marched on foot, going out immediately after feceak-
fast Major Cltetwode shot a beaariifol aoatelope,
and loaded Ms beaters with game. The next day's

D 2

36 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

march brought us into Bhooj, where we halted for
several days. On our arrival, Colonel Trevelyan,
Political Resident inCutch, although a total stranger
to me, insisted., with the true spirit of hospitality,
that we should be his guests at the Residency,
instead of remaining in camp during the halt. A
suite of handsome rooms was given up to us, and
our horses were taken in as well. It was the
hospitality of a prince ; and arriving as we did, all
dusty, travel-stained, and fatigued, it seemed as
though we could not luxuriate enough in the com-
forts of a well-appointed house, with its large, cool,
lofty rooms, and refreshing baths. Bhooj possesses
several objects of interest ; amongst which are the
tombs of the former Raos. They are of red sand-
stone, hundreds of years old ; some having almost
crumbled away, while the one or two that remain
perfect are approached by handsome flights of steps,
and are rich in ornament as well as beautiful in
architectural design. The domed roofe are supported
on clusters, groups, and rows of pillars ; while the
fantastic and elaborate carvings of every corner
remind the spectator of the like ornaments on our
fairest English cathedrals. The Rao's Palace, and
also several of tlie tombs, are decorated with figures
resembling ttose seen on English monuments of
ancient date. An equestrian statue in chain armour,
looking very like a crusader, adorns the palace : and
the entrance to the door of the largest tomb is

A FATAL ACCIDENT. 37

guarded by two figures, male and female, apparently
about the date of Henry I. On inquiry, I learned
that many, many years ago, a Dutch sculptor came
to Bhooj, and left these traces of his skill. Con-
jecture wanders in vain over the history of this
man. How and why he came so far, a solitary
Christian outcast among the heathen, is unknown.
His name has long been lost, but his memory lives
in his works.

" Here, in silence and in sorrow, toiling with a busy hand,
Like an emigrant he wandered, seeking for the Better Land.
'Emigravit' is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies;
Dead he is not, but departed for the Artist never dies."

The second day of our halt at Bhooj was one
of gloom for all of us. The post which arrived
in the morning brought us the melancholy news of
the death of Lieutenant-Colonel "Wilmer, whom we
left sick at Bombay. I have since heard that ho
died neglected, and almost alone. This affected us
the more, as although Colonel Wilmer only joined
the 8th Hussars on their arrival in India, he had
won the esteem and goodwill of all. But a still
heavier calamity hung over this fated day ; the
sportsmen went out to shoot, and with them a young
Lieutenant Helme, who had joined scarcely a year
ago. He became separated from the rest, and was
only attended by his ghorawallahj who followed for
the purpose of carrying his game. The yottng toaan
had his gun over Hs shoulder at full cock, when

38 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

his foot tripped, and he stumbled heavily. The gun
flew from his hand, and struck the ground with
such force ihat it exploded, and the contents passed
through his body. The ghorawallah, sole witness
of the appalling accident, said he had not time to
utter a single word, but died as he fell. The terrified
servant ran in haste to some of the unfortunate
young man's brother officers, who were shooting
near, and meeting Lieutenant the Hon. E. Stourton,
brought him to where the body lay. Medical assist-
ance and a doolie were quickly on the spot, but he
was stone dead. At the inquest, held the following
morning, a verdict of " accidental death " was re-
turned; and this comfort was left to us, that he is
buried in consecrated ground, and amongst his own
countrymen, in the English cemetery at Bhooj,
where a monument was erected to his memory by
his brother officers. He was a quiet and amiable
youth, and many were grieved at his untimely
eutd.

Tidings of the evacuation of Awah reached
Colonel Trevelyan while we were at the Residency.
The rebels had strongly fortified it, and appeared
determined to resist. While preparations were being
made for the siege, a violent storm of thunder and
lightning, with terrific rain, compelled the suspension
of all operatLom ; and the rebels taking advantage
of the elemental din, and under cover of heaven's
artillery, abandoned the , fort* "jjje heard that a.

AN INDIAN COURT. 39

hundred prisoners were made, of whom twenty-four
were hanged, and one shot.

I received an intimation from the Ranees, appoint-
ing an interview with me, and was much gratified
at having an opportunity of seeing the interior of an
Indian court. Mrs. Jervis, the wife of the resident
chaplain at Bhooj, kindly accompanied me as in-
terpretress. The Eao sent his carriage, an English
brougham, for us, with an escort both of horse and
foot. The courtyard of the palace, an extensive and
handsome building, was thronged with people, and
music commenced as our carriage drew up at the
foot of the stone steps leading to the ladies' apart-
ments. We saw sis of the Ranees, and the wife of
the Rao's eldest son. The ladies, who received us in
the durbar room, were seated on chairs in a row, sur-
rounded by female attendants and musicians. They
rose as we entered, and extended their hands ; seats
were then placed for us opposite to them. The eldest
lady conversed : the rest sat by in silence. I never
saw such a profusion of jewellery in my life. The
forehead of each was hidden by a circular ornament,
of precious stones, and even their eyelids were fringed
with diamonds ; nose jewels, the size and weight of
which distorted the nostril, completed the decorations
of the face. Several necklaces, some apparently of
solid gold, others of strings of pearls, covered tha&tfGk
and bosom; while massive bracelets^, Waaaag, with
ruhias and ejoaseufcids, encircled their anaas feoui* dhow

40 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

to wrist. One bracelet I particularly remember ; it
was a thick and heavy circlet of gold, studded with
about thirty emeralds the size of peas. On their
ankles they wore three or four chains and anklets of
different patterns, and each toe was covered with an
ornament resembling enamelled leaves. The Ranee
who conversed appeared to be an unusually intelli-
gent woman. She was well informed as to everything
relating to the royal families of Europe, and listened
with interest for my answers to her various questions.
Mrs. Jervis mentioned that I was the Englishwoman
whom the Eanee had heard of as having been with
the army during the Crimean war; and her in-
quiries proved that she was familiar with the leading
events of the campaign. Her information was, I
believe, acquired from a Persian newspaper, which
she receives once a week. She was very desirous
to ascertain whether the men of the regiment enter-
tained hostile feelings towards the native population,
or only towards such as had revolted. The ladies
examined my watch and bracelets very minutely,
and then desired their attendants to show me their
sleeping apartments. This was quite exceeding
ordinary etiquette, and arose evidently from a wish
to make their friendly feeling as manifest as possible.
The rooms were dark and close, but the swinging
cots were very handsome. That of the eldest Ranee
was made entirely of silver, and suspended from
the ceiling byjnassive chains, carved into elephants,

SEPOY FIDELITY. 41

horses, and palm-trees. Close to it was a smaller
swinging bed, in a handsome silver frame. It was
the cot which had been occupied by her son, the
heir apparent, when he was a little child; and,
mother-like, she still keeps it in her room. The
ladies retire about ten or eleven o'clock, and are
rocked and rung to sleep by little silver bells sus-
pended from the chains that swing the cot. One
tiling struck me: when in conversation with the
Ranee, she asked rather eagerly if I had ever been
actually present at a battle. And on being answered
in the affirmative, she fell back in her chair and
sighed. A whole lifetime of suppressed emotion,
of crushed ambition, of helplessness, and weariness,
seemed to be comprehended in that short sigh.

We quitted Bhooj with great regret on the 9th
February. Our first march, of sixteen miles, to
Dhunnytee was not commenced till daylight^ and
although the morning was fortunately cool and breezy
during the last three or four miles, the heat was
extreme. The next morning we started at half-past
three A.M., with the 10th Native Infantry, which
had joined us at Bhooj. This regiment (or rather
a wing of it) accompanied us during the whole of
our subsequent marches ; and no words are too
strong to express their fidelity before the enemy,
their patient endurance of fatigue, and their cheerfol
readiness to perform their duties, sometimes under
most trying circumstances. As we had no longer

42 CAWAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

the benefit of the moon, and the leading squadron
was marching nearly five miles an hour, the rear
squadron, owing to some slight delay, lost sound of
the rest of the column, and we had ahout two miles
of hard trotting across country in total darkness, over
ground fall of large holes. The next morning
our ride was more exciting still ; for our guide lost
his way, and brought us to a river, which we had
to ford. It was so dark that we could not distin-
guish the ground at all, and we had to ride on,
although our horses floundered shoulder-deep into
holes, or stepped and scrambled over rocks, every
moment The fourth march brought us to Chow-
barree, where we dismissed the beautiful bullocks
and handsome carts which had carried our baggage
from Bhooj. As we hear that the bullocks in the
northern and central part of India are mostly a
miserable and half-starved race, we have purchased
a pair of the magnificent white ones, for which
Cutch is famous^ to draw our gharry. The country
now slightly improves in beauty. At intervals there
are trees and pa/tches of cultivation, and we have
passed several large tanks, covered with water-fowl.
Game continues very abundant ; and the wild dogs
and jackals prowl at night close to the tents, making
the air reverberate with their screaming laugh.
Jeesra and Geree, where we encamped in a dry salt
marsh, full of tall reeds, which kept us constantly
on the watch for fear of fire, Moorania, and Fowar,

THE RUNN OP CUTCH. 43

were passed before our nest halt. Between the
two last we crossed the Runn of Cutch, the eastern
boundary of the Rao's dominions, and entered the
Palampoor States. The Runn is alternately a sandy
and muddy stretch of land, which, during the
monsoon, is covered with salt-water. After crossing
four miles of dry mud, we came to a small sandy
island, called " Gadka Gote," covered with grass and
small bushes* Entering again upon the Runn, we
reached another island, called " Blurdia," of the same
kind as the first. The Runn, which becomes hard
and consistent by December, presents no obstacles,
except in cases of unseasonable rain ; and at this
point is about twelve miles across.

After marching through Babra and Warye we
halted again for a day at Radhinpoor, which is a large
and prettily situated native town, surrounded by a
wall. The political agent for the Palampoor States
resides here, as does also the Nawaub, whose gardens
are extensive, and afforded us a shady and agreeable
promenade. We despatched letters to England from
this place vi& Deesa, whence ours were forwarded to
us at Waxye, dated 4th and 15th January.

On the 25th February we quitted our pleasant
camp at Radhinpoor, and betook ourselves along oa
of the dustiest tracks I ever rode, about thktawi
BStll&s to Ooun* The moon lighted ns for tite-fesfc
hour of our March, which haegan at three AJ&;4 tozfc
times, although the night wa& ctesa? asd

44 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

bright, I was unable to discern the man riding imme-
diately in front of my horse's nose, owing to the in-
tense dust in which he was enveloped. It was no
wonder that the eyes felt as if their lids were lined
with sand-paper, or the skin as though rivers of
water would scarcely slake its thirst. The Nawaub,
by whose orders carts were supplied to the regiments,
is said to make a good thing of the troops who
pass through his States, The carts which he pro-
vided for the baggage transport were charged to
us at the rate of two annas a mile for the
thirteen miles, and as each officer employed two,
and some six, a goodly amount was paid over to
the Nawaub, who, according to report, gives the
tmlucky gari-wallahs what he pleases, and keeps the
rest himself.

We marched into Deesa on Sunday morning, the
28th February, at about eight o'clock. With the
exception of the few days' halt at Bhooj, we had lost
no time upon the road, never marching less than nine
miles, and generally doing from twelve to sixteen
miles a day. Deesa being the first English station on
our march, we naturally approached it with feelings
of curiosity and excitement; it was, moreover, the
extreme frontier of the quiet districts, and its canton-
ments once passed, tents can no longer be sent on
overnight, and no messman will be ready to greet us
with tea or coffee on our arrival in camp. We were
prepared after leaving Deesa to renounce all the

A EUROPEAN STATION. 45

luxuries of the campaign ; but we hardly anticipated
the fatigue and discomfort that lay before us. The
stern schooling of the Crimea had taught us to make
light of difficulties,, and although even at this early
stage of the march, we were glad to halt for two or
three days, we nevertheless looked forward to the
future without fear or anxiety. Deesa is a large,
straggling cantonment, with comfortable-looking
bungalows scattered here and there; but the soil is
so sandy that with the slightest wind the dust becomes
intolerable. In the native town there are two Parsee
shops, which appear to carry on a thriving trade.
One of these shopkeepers is the agent of our regi-
mental agent in Bombay, and the Mess President
endeavoured in vain to induce him to take charge of
some superfluous stores, so that our baggage was ulti-
mately given over to Government and stowed away
in the barracks. Our encampment was pitched on a
large plain just outside the cantonment. We found
here the Queen's 89th, the 17th Native Infantry, a
native cavalry regiment, and Captain Bolton's com-
pany of Royal Artillery.

Although we knew that our destination was Kotah,
we were at first in ignorance of the route which we
were to follow. It was evident that we were to lose
no time upon the road ; and in order that we might
save about sixty miles, it was proposed that instead
of going by Nusseerabad, we should take a more
direct track, leading over the Chutterbooj Pass, which

46 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

no regular troops had ever crossed before. This
route at first sight appeared totally impracticable for
cavalry, as uo stores could be carried on carts, and
as the Commissariat declined to enter into any con-
tract with the natives for the supply of grain and
grass, having no hope of its punctual fulfilment.
Another serious obstacle on this new route was the
apprehended deficiency of water. However, after a
great deal of consultation and consideration. Colonel
De Salis, who commanded the column, resolved on
proceeding by the main road as far as Erinpoora, and
there awaiting final instructions as -to whether he
should or .should not proceed by the CJmtterbooj
Pass, Three hundred pack bullocks were furnished
to the regiment to carry grain from Erinpoora, to be
used in case of the failure of local supplies, and fifty
fresh troop ghorawallahs were also procured to supply
the places of the Sindians who left us at Deesa, the
enormous pay of 15 rupees a month not being a suffi-
cient bribe to induce them to remain. Of course we
had to reduce our baggage to the smallest possible
amount, and we suffered great inconvenience in con-
sequence during the rainy season, having neither
warm clothes nor waterproofs with us. Indeed, I
should probably have lost my life had not an acquaint-
ance, made at a later period, given me the thick
cloth cape of a regimental cloak as some protection
when in my saddle.
At one ^M. on Thursday morning, March the 4th,

A DEADLY KICK. 47

we left Deesa, and marched sixteen miles and a half
to Koachawarra. We had crossed two shallow
streams, and passed two villages, when one of our
vicious little troopers struck out at Sergeant Major
Warde, who was riding up the column, and broke
both the bones of his leg below the knee. He con-
tinued to ride for three or four minutes without being
aware of the extent of the injury, and was then placed
in a doolie and sent back to Deesa, where there is a
good hospital. We subsequently learned that when
he had recovered from the accident he was sent to re-
gain his strength at the sanatorium on Mount Aboo,
where he was attacked with pneumonia and died.

Being entirely dependent upon camels for the
transport of our baggage, the labour of shifting
camp is immense. For the mess alone, seventy
camels have to be laden. As in many instances they
will not allow a European to approach them, and as
the native servants occupy an interminable time in
arranging the load of each, the packing occupies the
greater part of the night. My husband indented at
Deesa for twelve camels, but after a few marches
sickness overtook them, and we found fifteen requi-
site to carry our tents, with the servants 5 baggage
and our own. Ws expected to be tolerably tired <ef
marching before reaching Kotah, which at that taiae
we looked Tq>on as our final destination, and *rare
already somewhat inclined to agree with the ferofcler
of one of the officers of the 8th Hussare, who begged

48 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

/

to give him warning, for " lie found it too much
plenty marching."

On Friday, the 5th, we made a thirteen-mile
march to Muddar, of which the latter part was as
varied and "beautiful as the first was monotonous and
wearisome. We were now surrounded by rocky
eminences, and in sight of the Mount Aboo range of
hills. Our camp was pitched for the first time on
tolerably hard ground, instead of on the everlasting
sand 5 and we placed our own tent beneath a wide-
spreading tamarind tree, the- green branches of which
afforded a delicious shade.

The next day we pushed on to Reodur, ten miles
nearer the beautiful hills. Here we also enjoyed the
advantage of a cool and shady camp. H.M.'s 95th
Regiment, which preceded us on this march, attacked
and took the village of Rowa, about six miles from
Reodur, It was occupied by the rebels, a gang of
whom, to the number of two hundred, infest these
heights, and are the annoyance and terror of all the
country side. Secure among the fastnesses of the
mountains, they descend like vultures upon the plain.
One day they appear on the northern, the next day
on the southern side of the hills, and swoop down
upon some devoted village, which they sack without
mercy.

Major Ohetwode went out from this place in quest
of a tiger, from the ravages of which the inhabitants
had suffered severely; but as the regiment made

A MOUNTAIN WALK. 49

no halt, he was unable to devote sufficient time to
the pursuit. Lieutenant the Hon. E. Stourton, who
had been for some days suffering very severely from
fever, has experienced so grave a relapse that the
medical officers determined on leaving him at the
sanatorium, whither he was conveyed from Maira,
our next encampment, directly at the foot of Mount
Aboo. My recollections of this camp are most
pleasant. The mountain, in all its solitary grandeur,
rose before us, unmarked by any dwelling or foot-
print of man. !Now and then the wild cry of a
hawk might he heard, as he wheeled high over our
heads ; and beneath our feet were little star-like
flowers and blossoming shrubs. As the shades of
evening gathered around us, we walked towards the
mountain- tearing our feet with thorns and filling
our hands with flowers ; nor did we turn back until
it was dark, and when we reached the camp it was
so late that we had little more than two hours to
sleep, before the reveillde (that remorseless call) sum-
moned us again to our saddles.

It appears to be General Roberts' intention to wait
at Nusseerabad until we can join him. We are
certainly hastening towards him with all speed, having
marched six days without a halt. The fatigue,
however, begins to tell heavily on the three-year-old
horses, and also upon the 10th Native Infantry and
Captain Bolton's company of Royal Artillery, who
accompany us as far as Erimpoora. At length, after

50 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

sis days' marching, came a blessed day of rest at
Serohee. I do not know one of my English ac-
quaintance who can thoroughly appreciate a day of
rest. A halt-day is to us what the Sabbath is to
a man employed in monotonous and toilsome labour
all the week. It seems to me as though when the
halt-day comes I cannot rest enough. Oh! the
inappreciable luxury of a whole clear day, with no
reveWe to disturb one at midnight, no camels to
pack, no sleepy horses to rouse up and saddle, no
tents to strike, no dusty march and long-delayed
breakfast, no dinner hurried over that the large tent
may be struck before dusk I

Serohee is a large town, well situated on the side
of a hill. It is famous for its manufacture of swords,
which are of considerable value and beauty.

Letters of the 2nd February were received this
morning. The fC Home News," of the same date,
which had arrived -three days before, contained a
detailed account of the marriage of the Princess
Royal-, and also of the attempt to assassinate -the
Emperor of the French. It is quite refreshing to
see that the French army has abandoned all pretence
as to La Belle Alliance. As far as individuals were
concerned, it was a humbug throughout The
national antipathy has jiot diminished, and the in-
conceivable bombast of ihe French soldier oozes out
in the pompous addresses- to the Emperor.

We have gained one great advantage by entering

WILD ANIMALS. 51

the disturbed country, and that is, that the servants
and baggage-men, duly impressed with the fear of
being cut off, keep up much more closely with the
column than heretofore ; so that our tents are pitched
and breakfast ready almost in time to save me from
fainting either from exhaustion or the sun. One of
our ghorawallahs has provided himself with a sword;
and Lieutenant-Colonel Naylor's servant has pro-
cured a bow and arrows, just like the fatal instru-
ments in the tragedy of "Cock Robin." One or
two more have armed themselves with boar-spears ;
and this reminds me that, a day or two before we
arrived at Serohee, a wild boar charged through
our column when on the line of march. It is
well known that a boar will never swerve from
his straight course for the purpose of attacking
any object: so, as a passage was quickly made
for him, he shot through without injuring man or
horse.

The Rajah of Serohee visited our camp, and rode
through it in state, during the day we halted there.
He was escorted by a large armed party, who were
at first refused admission into our lines, through a
misapprehension, which was rectified almost as soon
as it was made.

It was interesting, as our march wore on* to s#e
the various wild animals with which India aborod&;
for instance, between Serohee and Palree, two bears
(these were more strange than pleasant) passed

E 2

52 CAMPAIGmNG EXPERIENCES.

through, our column, on their way from their noc-
turnal wanderings to their den in the mountains.
One or two officers fired revolvers at them, but I
fancy without much effect; had my husband been
riding near, he might have given another proof of
his great accuracy as a pistol-shot. On the day
we' reached Erimpoora, graceful little antelopes
came to wonder at us. It was here that we for
the first time came upon traces of this terrible
mutiny. Ruined bungalows and gardens laid waste,
showed how ruthless had been the destroyers. The
Bengalees of the Joudpoor Legion, some of whom
were stationed at Erimpoora when we passed through,
were the instigators and executors of the revolt.
Captain Conolly, who commanded them, and who
was at the time the only European officer residing
at the station, was saved through the connivance
of some of the native officers who remained faithful.
Eeports differ as to the manner in which he effected
his escape. I was told that he overheard some of
his men planning his death> and while at his wit's
end to know how to escape, a friendly subadar came
to him and said, "You will find a horse waiting
for you outside the cantonment. Get to him un-
perceived, as best you can, then mount, and I
need not tell you not to spare your spurs. * The
last injunction, my ' informant added, he fulfilled
so well, that he did not check his gallop till
twenty miles lay between him and his would-be

SEVEEE MARCHING. 53

assassins. Now, for the correctness of this I cannot
vouch

" I know not what the truth may "be,
I tell the tale as 'twas told to me."

Two of this same legion acted as our guides for
several days, and a few were not a little suspicious
of them. However, they proved faitliful and harm-
less. The detachment of Royal Artillery under
Captain Bolton left us to-day, and proceeded to
Nusseerabad. It was believed that General Roberts
would take with him to Kotah the artillery then
at Nusseerabad, and that Captain Bolton's men would
supply then* places there; but after we had been
some days before Kotah, we had the pleasure of
falling in with them again. The authorities appeax
resolved to try the mettle of the horses and the
constitutions of the men and officers of H. M.'s
8th Hussars ; for, besides giving us a route never
passed before by any troops, except when on one
occasion five hundred of the Joudpoor Legion scram-
bled along it, we find that the marches are, in reality,
much longer than they are reported to be in the
book of the quartermaster-general. Our first march
from Erimpoora to Bailee was entered as fourteen
miles, but it proved to be seventeen. The next day,
to Gomerao was mentioned as fifteen miles; Mt
the infantry were seven hours and five-and-twonty
minutes on the line of inarch, and the cavalry, who
started at three A.M., did not reach' their camping-

54 CAMPAIGNING ESPEEIENCES.

ground until fifteen minutes past nine, although they
never halted for more than a quarter of an hour
at a time. The regiment is supposed to march from
three miles and a half to four miles an hour, after
the first mile or two, during which they move faster.
The luckless ghorawallahs and camp-followers, who
were on foot, came in quite useless from fatigue;
and our sick men began to increase in number.
There were two officers on the sick report, Lieutenant-
Colonel Naylor, and Hon. E. Stourton, who was left
at Mount Aboo, and of whom no tidings were
heard for a long while. The increasing heat of the
weather deprives' us of nearly all the refreshment
of the day's rest. We keep our hearts up, never-
theless, with the hope that when we arrive at Kotah
we shall be repaid for the hurry of this march, said,
by officers who have previously served in India, to
be the most harassing they ever undertook. I do
not know whose coughs are the worst, those of the
native servants or those of the horses. During the
few hours allotted to rest, the noise of coughing
horses, choking natives, and remonstrative camels,
is enough to banish sleep from every one in camp.
A$ many of the camels are weak and ill-fed, they
not unfrequenfly fall with their loads ; and it is no
unusual thing to see a bedstead arrive in two or
three pieces, a chair minus the seat, or a table
wanting a leg. Lucky, indeed, do we consider <>ur-
selves if both chairs and table survive the breakfast,

CAMP FUKNITURE. 55

without giving way. Here let me remark, for the
benefit of others, that the only chairs suited to such
an expedition as ours are the portable iron ones
manufactured by Messrs. Brown and Sons, of Picca-
dilly. They fold quite flat, and are easily carried,
besides being strong and comfortable. Our bullock
gharry, while following the baggage on the line of
march from Gomerao to Sommair, was upset into a
dry well. It fell completely over, and, strange to
say, neither of the bullocks were injured. On its
arrival at Sommair, it was taken to pieces, previous
to being carried over the Chutterbooj Pass by coolies.

56 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

CHAPTER V.

" All in a hot and copper sky,

The bloody sun at noon,
Right up ahove the mast doth stand
No bigger than the moon."

COLERIDGE.

" And sometimes thro' the mirror blue
The Knights came marching two and two/'

TENNYSON.

ON the morning of the 16th March, the reveille
sounded at three A.M., and shortly before five o'clock
the regiment started, as the day broke, to march
to Jeelwarra. Lieutenant-Colonel Naylor, whose
gharry, like our own, had been taken to pieces,
started his coolies at midnight with their load, and
mine followed an hour or two later. The troops
soon found themselves on a rough and rocky path,
leading towards the heart of the mountains. We
crossed two little hill torrents, and passed at first
under thickly-spreading trees, which diminished in
beauty as we ascended. I have no doubt that in the
clefts and caves of the rugged hill-sides " many a
fierce she-bear lies amidst bones and blood;" and,
in fact, a bear was seen near the centre of the

THE CHUTTERBOOJ PASS. 57

column. On and upward we scrambled in single
file, over masses of rock and large loose stones;
passing with difficulty in one narrow place an un-
fortunate camel of our advance party, which had
laid down to die. Once be road was cut out of the
side of the mountain, and we looked down a most
uncomfortable depth. It was singular that the Arab
horses, so careless when the road is level and smooth,
should on this day pass without hesitation or mistake
over ground where a false step would have been
irrecoverable. A sufficiently hazardous undertaking
it was to move troops up so narrow and steep a pass,
commanded by a fort, and by eminences from which
twenty men might have most seriously annoyed the
two regiments. A part of the 10th Native Infantry
marched in front, and the remainder of the 10th,
with forty of our own men, who were dismounted
for the purpose, acted as rear and baggage guards,
We marched as quickly as possible through the
gorge, occasionally dismounting and leading our
horses up the most difficult places. The Pass ex-
tended, I believe, from seven to eight miles; and
about two miles and a half after we had reached
the more open ground at the top, we came to Jeel-
warra, most inhospitably situated on a bare and
rocky soil; producing, however, one fine banyan-
tree, under which we were so fortunate as to be able
to pitch our tent.

I felt at this time the first symptoms of over-

58 CAJMPAIGNING- EXPEBtEETCES.

fatigue and want of sleep, and found that the three,
or at most four hours allowed for repose were no
longer sufficient to compensate for the fatigues of
the day. Satisfied, however, with the report of an
easy march for the morrow, I endeavoured to com-
pose myself to sleep. As we were to descend the
ghaut, and pass over more rough ground, the reveillee
did not sound until half-past three ; and when parade
sounded at about twenty minutes after four, we
mounted and groped our perilous way to the front
of the column, where we remained until the first
streak of dawn, when we commenced the descent.
The "good road" proved very like the one of
yesterday, except that it was down hill, instead of
up. After slipping and scrambling down the rocky
paths, we reached the town of Ohutterbooj, and
came to a rather more sandy and comfortable country.
Here we were met by a riding-camel, with a native
bearing a note from the officer of our advance party,
who had gone on the previous day at noon. The
note contained the cheerful intelligence that the
road was a very bad one ; and that instead of the
distance being eleven miles, as stated, it was a good
five-aad-twenty. By this time the sun was up, and
he caught the sides of our faces, which scorched as
though blackening beneath his touch. The anxiety
that we felt was not so much for ourselves, mounted
as we were, but for our unfortunate servants, ghora-
wallahs, and camels. Many of the young troop-

HUNGER AND FATIGUE* 59

horses were also greatly fagged. It appeared to us
tliat great carelessness had been manifested in the
route chosen, and that the political agent of the
Polampoor States must have been satisfied with very
inaccurate measurements. It is always difficult to
judge of distances in India, as the te kos," or native
mile, differs in different parts of the country.
Sometimes we found a " kos " to signify two English
miles, and sometimes three. On the day of which
I am now writing the men fell into parade at Jeel-
warra at a quarter-past four A.M., and they dis-
mounted at the camping-ground at Aimatti at about
twenty minutes past one P.M., while the baggage-
camels did not come up until between five and six
o'clock in the evening. I would not have changed
places with the officer of the rear-guard that day
upon any consideration ; as it was, when the halting-
ground was reached, I was obliged to be assisted
from my saddle, being too cramped to dismount
without help. There was no dinner at mess that
night, and our own servants did not arrive until so
late, and were so knocked up when they did, that
it was useless to expect any dinner from them. Had
it not been for the hospitality of the officer who
commanded the advance party, we should have gone
fasting to sleep. The Rajah of Aimatti is related
to the Rajah of Kotah; and his town, when we
were there, was garrisoned by 2,000 men. The
walls look as though they were built of gingerbread-

60 CAMPAiaNINa EXPEBIENCES.

nuts. No European soldiers were admitted within
them ; "but our native servants were supplied willingly
enough. The inhabitants have some expert thieves
among them ; for they stole two swords and a carbine
from a tent, with securely-fastened doors, in which
eight men were sleeping at the time. WQ halted
for a day at Aimatti, as well we might ; and on the
following morning a march of six miles over a
smooth and level country to Lowa enabled us to
place our camp between a grove of fine tamarind-
trees and a very picturesque, although ruined, fort.
Here we had an opportunity of watching the natives
extracting opium from the fresh and green poppy-
heads, the flowers of which had just fallen. Large
tracts of country are devoted to the cultivation of
this gaudy, but misused plant ; and we most impru-
dently stayed in the sun, watching the labourers,
who, with an instrument resembling a three-pronged
fork, were making incisions on each side of
the poppy-head. The morning after this operation,
they return provided with a knife, the blade of
which resembles a small sickle, and on this they
scrape off the dark juice which has oozecTthrough
the incisions. The quantity taken from each head
is so small, that the labour of collecting it is very
tedious. The syrup, when collected on the knife,
resembles a juicy pulp of a dark brown colour. I
should not omit to mention* that this day's march,
which we found in the route furnished to Colonel

PANIC AT POONAH. 61

De Sails to be twelve miles, was "barely half the
distance. May the mistakes in future be always
on this side! The commissariat arrangements are
now so bad, that sometimes after a severe march
a very insufficient quantity of hay, and only 3i Ibs.
of grain, instead of their allowance of 10 sirrs, or
nearly 12 Ibs., are issued for the horses. Our
private letters from Poonah and Kirkee speak strongly
of the mutinous feeling which smoulders at those
places. Secret meetings are being held, and great
hopes are excited that the Nana, who is reported
to have slipped his northern moorings, will hasten
down to the vicinity of Poonah, and rally the
Mahrattas to his standard. Strange scenes, the
effect of panic fears, are said to have been enacted
by the residents at that place, where an elderly
officer, who happened at the time to be quite disabled,
in consequence of a fall from his horse, was in great
request to sleep in the houses of the ladies whose
husbands were absent, by way of guard.

A march of twenty miles (stated to be ten)
brought us the next day to Gangapoor, a town of
some importance as to size. We encamped near it
in what was evidently the bed of a tank in the rainy
season. Water was abundant in the neighbourhood,
two large and picturesque lakes, covered with water-
fowl, were on our right hand, and a tank near the
town on our left. The birds of India are an interest-
ing study. If their voices are unmusical, and there

62 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

is a proverb in India, that " the birds have no song,
the women no beauty, and the flowers no perfume/'
the beauty and brilliancy of their plumage far
exceeds that of our northern songsters. It is no
unusual thing to see fifteen or twenty peacocks at a
time. We frequently pass them in the grey morning,
roosting on the trees, or coming down in clusters to
feed. Then there is the Saras,* of a French grey
and white colour, with red near the bill : this bird
is nearly as tall as a man, and often in the morning
light appears of gigantic proportions. The white
egrets, and paddy-birds, Brahmin kites and hawks,
are amongst the larger birds, as well as several
others, apparently of the flamingo and bittern tribes,
which my ignorance does not enable me to name.
Parrots, orioles, jays, mainas.f mango-birds, and
others, small but brilliant, dart through the sunshine
like flashes of light, Every sort of duck can be
shot upon the tanks; and a day or two before we
reached this place Major Chetwode killed an alli-
gator which he saw basking on the bank. It moved
towards the water directly it perceived him, but
having a rifle, he fired instantly: the bail entered
behind the shoulder, a second shot was quickly
given, but the creature, although mortally wounded,
took to the water. None of the beaters cared to*go

* A crane, Grus antigone.

t^The mama is a name applied to several Tbirds of the starling*

A CAPTURED ALLIGATOR. 63

in and bring him out. There was no time to lose :
so Major Chetwode, whose promptness and decision
are well known amongst sportsmen, sprang after
him, and dragged him on shore. Although the
creature measured only about eight feet in length,
I looked with wonder into his enormous mouth, the
jaws of which, if roughly closed, sounded as though
made of hard wood.

Gorlam, distant from Gangapoor about fifteen
miles, was the next place where we pitched our
tents. A proof of the dryness of the Indian atmo-
sphere was afforded this morning by the showers of
electric sparks which flew from the tail of the horse
immediately before me. At times the flashes of
light were as strong as those which his iron shoe would
have caused had it come in -contact with a flint.
The nest day's march brought us to Bheelwarra,
which is surrounded by fine trees and cultivated
ground. To arrive at our encampment we had to
pass through the town, which is handsome and well
built, with broad streets and open squares. Never
before had the inhabitants experienced so great an
excitement. The streets were thronged with spectators,
and the roof of the principal temple was literally
covered with human heads. We observed a long
and low house near the gate by which we made our
exit from the town, the frontage of which was richly
carved and painted; while the massive doors were
fastened by bright steel chains. -This proved to be

64 CAMPAIGNING EXPEDIENCES.

the bank wherein, during the stay of the gallant 8th
Hussars] before their walls, the careful inhabitants
locked up their women. I was shown a handful of
small change from this repository of treasure, of
which a cowry, or small shell, formed the most
valuable ingredient. I afterwards saw a quantity of
these cowries stored up in the strong closet of a
merchant's house at Kotah. There are here two
large wells or tanks of great depth, one in the centre
of the town and the other outside the gate. They
are surrounded with ornamental walls and are ap-
proached by flights of steps descending beneath
archways of stone, supported on light and well-pro-
portioned pillars. During our halt of one day at
Bheelwarra we heard of General Eoberts being
actually before Kotah. We were most unwilling to
believe that he had advanced without waiting for us,
who have been making such efforts to join him. We
still hope that the information is premature ; but our
uncertainty will cease on our arrival at Jehazpoor,
four marches from hence, where Colonel De Salis
will receive a communication from the General
commanding the division.

Three days before our arrival at Bheelwarra we
buried the first man who died during our march.
He had long suffered from depression of spirits a
sure forerunner of disease in this climate and died
of dysentery while being carried on the line of
march. Our hospitals are now filling, nor can we

WANT OF GHOEAWALLAES. 65

wonder at it, as so many of our men have to undergo
the unusual exertion and exposure to the sun con-
sequent upon attending to their own horses, a thing
forbidden in this country, where it is customary for
all European regiments to have native grooms. In one
troop of the 8th Hussars at this time there are but
five ghorawallahs, the rest having absconded soon
after leaving Deesa ; at which place they were hired,
and where they mostly received wages in advance.
Our soldiers are thus much exposed, especially in
having to transport large sacks of grain from the
commissariat to the troop lines.

On the second day's march from Bheelwarra, we
reached at sunrise a wide plain with a cluster of
trees which sheltered a large tank. Behind them
rose the walls of a palace which, at a distance,
appeared beautiful and fairy-like enough, to gratify
the ideas usually entertained by those who have
never seen them of the architectural beauties of
eastern buildings. This turned out to be the resi-
dence of the Rajah of Shahpoora, who, soon after
our arrival, came with several elephants, and an
escort of mounted men, to inspect our camp. Later
in the day, when we proposed visiting the building
which had caused us so much admiration in the
morning, we were told by an officer returning from
it, that it was a mere ruin of paint, and plaster, and
dirt. And yet India can boast of one building, the
purity and beauty of which is as transcendent as it

66 CAMPAIGNED EXPERIENCES.

is wonderful and glorious. I allude to the gorgeous
tomb at Agra, erected "by the Emperor Shah Jehan
to his wife, Although fallen from its original splen-
dour, it is still a marvel ; and Government allots a
certain sura to save it from decay. But its gates,
which like those of the shrine in the church of Si
John at Malta, were of pure silver, hare long ago
"been coined into rupees. Tradition also tells of a
door formed of agate, which exists no longer. The
tomb itself is of white marble, and the Emperor is
said to have planned the erection of a similar resting-
place for himself close by, connected with it by a
span of white marble.

It was reported in our camp, as we inarched next
morning, that the Rajah of Shahpoora had sent a
thousand armed men to join the force before Kotak
The warriors whom we saw on tho previous evening
carried matchlocks and round shields made of thick
leather. A party of them, accompanied by three
elephants and a concourse of followers, came into
camp before sunset, and amused us by a display of
horsemanship. They described circles and figures
when at a galop ; they rushed forward at full Speed,
and then checked their horses suddenly and stood
still. The process as practised in India is a cruel
one. The bit is so exceedingly severe that it is not
unusual to see the horses' mouths streaming with
blood. After all said and done, there is no horse-
man in the \vorld to be compared to an Englishman

EASTERN HORSEMEN. 67

who knows how to ride, plainly and neatly turned
out on a hunting morning, and mounted upon a
handsome thoroughbred English or Irish horse.

The native Indian, the Turk, and the Aral) carry
all their bed and household appendages upon their
horse's back, so that the animal, to our notion, is
loaded before he is mounted by his rider, whose seat,
owing to the width of the accumulated loadings, is
very ungainly. The fashion, too, of confining the
horse's head close to his chest, by a tight band or
martingale, deprives him of all freedom or grace of
motion, and causes him to be covered with sweat and
foam.

This neighbourhood, and also that of Jehazpoor,
is rich in garnets, and at the latter place they can be
procured, ready polished, for a mere trifle. Camp
gossip becomes rife as we near Kotah, and it is BOW
asserted that the town is defended by 22,000 rebels.
The'guides on our next inarch performed their task
very unwillingly, and ours twice asserted that he had
lost his way. That of the 10th Native Infantry lost
his so completely that the regiment did not arrive in
camp until two hours after wo had pitched our tents.
The consequence was, that many baggage cameta
went astray. As soon as the 10th, reached .t&e
ground, they gave their guide a couple of dozan
lashes. A dozen was also administered to <me of
our troop cooks, whose habit of loitering *QJX the
maid delayed the lae&'s breakfasts an

3B 1 2

68 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

able time. I hear that lie took it with perfect
philosophy, and when released, laid down, and slept
the remainder of the day ; but the next morning the
breakfasts of the E Troop were ready before the
rest.

On the 26th March, for the first time, we felt the
hot winds. They blew like blasts from a furnace,
inducing a thirst that nothing could allay. One
officer, complaining of tins, said, u I drink twenty-
five hours out of the twenty-four, and yet cannot
'quench my thirst."

Mr. Eussell, The Times correspondent, writing a
short time later, thus describes his sensations, which
I quote, as entirely resembling my own ; " The hot
winds, which set in about ten o'clock, are all but
intolerable, charged as they are with dust, which fills
every pore and fires the blood which seems to pene-
trate the internal mechanism of the body, as it does,
in reality, force its way into the works of a watch
which renders all out-of-door exercise a sort of
severe penitential infliction, and makes dwelling in
tents utterly miserable and hopeless .... To
the increasing heat," he goes on to say, "will be
added length of days, greater power of the wind,
and, if possible, more dust. Of the latter it is quite
beyond the power of description to give an idea. It
is so fine and subtle, that long after the causes which
have raised it have ceased to exert their influence,
you may see it, like a veil of gauze between you and

DUST STORMS. 69

every object. Wlien this dust is set in motion by
the hot wind., and when the grosser sand, composed
of minute fragments of talc, scales of mica, and
earth, is impelled in quick successive waves, through
the heated atmosphere, the effect is quite sufficient
to make one detest India for ever."

The regimental orders of this day contain a notifi-
cation that on our arrival at Jehazpoor a commu-
nication will be received from General Roberts,
which will probably hurry us as much as possible to
the front. We are therefore ordered to hold our-
selves in readiness for forced marches. A ride of
five-and-twenty or thirty miles at night does not
appear formidable, after our march till after "the
deep midnoon" from Jeelwarra to Amatti. The
next day, according to expectation, *the communica-
cation came. It enclosed a route containing six
marches to Kotah, and gave no directions as to the
time in which they were to be performed.

70 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

CHAPTER VI.

"BAKDOLPH. On, on, on, on ! to the breach, to the breach !
NTH I pray thee, Corporal, stay ; the knocks are too hard :
and, for my own part, I have not a case of lives ; the humours of
it is too hot, that is the very plain song of it.
"PiST. The plain song is most just : for humours do abound ;
Knocks go and come - God's vassals drop and dio ;
And sword and shield
In bloody field
Doth win immortal fame.

" Bo*. Would I were in an ale-house in London ! I would give
all my fame for a pot of ale, and safety ! "

AFTER a inarch of fourteen miles, we had set up our
camp for the day at Thaima, when, looking out of
our tent, we descried a riding camel with a very gay
saddle, and we knew that despatches had come in,
Overcome with heat and fatigue, I soon after fell
asleep in my chair, when an orderly awoke mo, and
said that the Colonel had received a despatch to
hasten the regiment to the front, and that wo
were to march, at eight P.M., twenty-two miles, to
Boondee. Officers were so far fortunate that they
could have a change of horses, and the troopers,
when they started, were wonderfully fresh. Tho
country through which we passed must havo been

FORCED MARCHES. 71

lovely, although we could not see it. Our road
defiled through mountain passes, with a gate and
fortification erected on the summit. Thence we
descended until we reached a fertile valley, and a
river, wherein the horses were watered ; soon after
we passed the lake, above which frown the walls and
towers of Boondee, and by half-past three A.M. had
reached our halting -place on the far side of the
town. Several hundred Bengalee sepoys were re-
ported to be in this place, the fortifications of which,
natural and otherwise, appeared of immense strength.
The inhabitants manifested an unwillingness to supply
our advance party, which preceded us by a few hours,
but brought provisions readily enough to us. On
our arrival, at half-past three A.M., very few tents
were pitched, as we only rested until the horses and
camels were refreshed. I was indebted to the great
kindness of the officer in command of the advance
party, who, directly I arrived, insisted on giving up
his tent for my use. Thick groves of mango, pome-
granate, tamarind, and palm trees, formed a screen
from the sun, which rendered a tent less necessary.
ts Boots and saddles " sounded at two o'clock, and by
three P.M. wo were again on the line of march, Tho
sun blazed down upon the white and dusty road, but
every hour decreased his fierceness, a fortunate thing
for us, as one-and-twonty miles still lay between us
and Kotah. It was about half-past eleven P.M. when
we first discerned in the distance the lights of tho

72 CAMPAIGETIHa EXPERIENCES.

camp. About a mile from our encamping ground
two men of the 1st Bombay Lancers, -whose admi-
rable conduct at ISTusseerabad, when they escorted
all the Europeans to places of safety, is worthy of
the greatest praise, met us and showed us the position
we were to take up. Looking at my watch by the
moonlight on arriving in camp, I found it was five-
and-twenty minutes to two A.M.

During the four last miles we had heard the guns
firing on the town ; but our astonishment was great,
on our arrival, to see Colonel De Salis reading brigade
orders before the men had dismounted, to the effect
that an assault was to be made at noon, and that the
cavalry, 8th Hussars included, would turn, out at
seven A.M., prepared to take their share in the action !

This was sharp work ce and no mistake." And I
must say that I observed with pleasure and with
pride, that after two months' wearisome marching,
after fifty-six hours of great exertion, with tired
horses for which not a draught of water could be
procured, without rest, or refreshment for themselves,
save what the bare earth afforded, there were none
who did not show that eager excitement and cheerful
readiness which never seem to desert the English
soldier in the field. By half-past seven the cavalry
brigade marched off the ground, 1,500 strong, and
apparently as fine a body of men as one would wish
to see. There were 8th Hussars, and Bombay
Lancers, Jacob's Sind Horse,, some Belooches on their

BOMBARDMENT OF KOTAH. 73

little ragged tattoos, and Lieutenant-Colonel Blake's
troop of Bombay Horse Artillery.

We, who were thankful enough for some few
hours' rest from our saddles, whence

"We had oft outwatched the Bear,"

and the 150 men left to guard the standing camp,
waited with a thirsty anxiety for news. The firing
on the town struck us, who were accustomed to the
rain of shot at Sebastopol, as remarkably slack far
too much so to justify the information we received
last night, which was, that the town was to be bom-
barded from daybreak until about ten o'clock, when
the infantry were to force their way into the place by
the Eajah's gate, and the cavalry having crossed the
river by a ford about seven miles up, in order to
reach the only open side of the town, were to inter-
cept* and destroy the rebels should they attempt to
escape. As we were not then aware that the greater
part of the garrison had already fled, the plan
appeared an admirable one. In theory it was per-
fect in practice, however, it turned out the reverse.
At two o'clock a rattle of musketry, which con-
tinued for about five minutes, made us order the least
weary of our horses, and start in the direction of
Kotah, distant about a mile, and a half. Notibdng
occurred to interrupt us, and we rode on without any
incident beyond the astonishment caused by the appa-
rition of a lady in camp to a native infantry officer,

74 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

who involuntarily checked liis horse and continued
staring until we were nearly ont of sight. We soon
gained an eminence overlooking the river and the
Rajah's palace, together with the gate by which our
troops had already entered the town. Just as we
reached this spot a great explosion took place, fatal,
as we afterwards learnt, to several men of the 95th
Regiment. Some foot soldiers and several of the
Sind Horse were visible near the gate, and the noise
made by human voices inside the walls was perfectly
incredible ; it was like an enormous beehive. The
heat of the sun was intense; and as we could see
nothing besides the fortifications, and could gain no
information, we returned to our tent. "We heard the
next day that while we were watching the town, be-
tween two and three P.M., the remainder of the
mutineers were escaping from the opposite gate.
They evacuated the town in haste, but without dis-
order, passing quickly over the plain until they
reached a few houses known as " The Rebels'
Tillage," where they formed for their march.

It will naturally be asked " Where were the
1,500 cavalry and artillery at this time, and what
were they doing towards the destruction of the flying
enemy?" The cavalry and artillery reached the ford
at the appointed time, and had traversed half its
width, in spite of the difficulties which it presented,

when some one with keener eyes than tho rest dis-

* *

covered what he declared to be a gun pointed on the

ESCAPE OE THE ENEMY. 75

wading force. On nearer and careful examination, it
proved to be a "black buffalo grazing. At last, after
a good deal of delay, and some little disorder, the
ford was crossed. I hesitate to describe what fol-
lowed. The cavalry and artillery were immediately
halted on die river bank, and the men remained
standing to their horses or lying under the trees
until two o'clock, when the enemy, unable to enduro
the fierce assault of the infantry, fled across the plain,
carrying with them their arms, ammunition, and
treasure ! Surely on receipt of this intelligence, the
cavalry must have started in hot pursuit. No. Far
from it. They remained where they halted all that day
and all that night; and the next morning tliey mar died
into Kotah, and then returned to their original halting-
place by the ford!

Greatly disheartened and humiliated did both
officers and men feel at this ignominious termination
of their gallant efforts to get up in time to take part
in the siege. They were forced into this false position
without any obvious reason, and at a time when a
fair opportunity offered of adding fresh honour to
their Crimean name. On the evening of the next
day an order was sent to our camp desiring us to join
the regiment at the ford. So we struck our tents
and mounted our horses, starting a little before ten*
It was fortunate for us that the moon was tip ad
Bear the full, for after marching about sevai miles
we came to the broad, broad river ; it did not reach

76 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

our horses' girths, but its bed was filled with masses
of rock and large boulders. Slowly the horses crept
across, now plunging up to their shoulders as they slid
off a boulder, now poising themselves on a rock
which rose above the surface. The white Arab
which my husband rode shivered and snorted at
every step, but ee Prince/' who carried me, was calm
and brave, and only lost his footing once or twice.
We crossed far more easily than did the main body
of the regiment the day before, when, as I am told,
many horses were down. It was one o'clock when
we reached the camp, and we found all the officers
astir, for the flying column which was to go in
pursuit of the escaped rebels was being organized,
and the orders then just issued were for two squadrons
to join detachments of other cavalry regiments and
artillery, and to start at daybreak. A harassing
night to men and officers resulted. Orders and
counter-orders, a delayed commissariat, and other
reasons, prevented the one squadron, which eventually
went under the command of Major Chctwode, from
marching until four P.M. It was hard upon the men
to arouse them at midnight for a service upon which
they were not required to start until sixteen hours
afterwards I And had the brigade been otherwise
commanded there would have been no necessity for a
pursuit at all, for few Acting Brigadiers would have
halted their men for twenty-four hours with a flying
enemy almost in sight. The fugitives, who had

THE DOG OK MANY EIGHTS. 77

gained fifty-two hours' start, were now to be pursued
by our troopers in full marching order and on jaded
horses !

The 95th, 10th Native Infantry, and the artillery,

with their doolies, camels, gharrys, grass-cutters

and camp-followers, marched by our tent-door before

eight o'clock. Amongst the camp-followers was a

handsome clumber spaniel which had lost sight of

his master. He came for a moment to the shade

of my tent, and then left it in search of his owner.

I fetched a gindy full of fresh water," and had it

waiting for him, for I felt sure I should see his

foolish, honest face again, and after about half an

hour back he came. Poor thirsty dog! How he

panted and lapped, and then laid down close to the

water, and made himself quite at home till evening,

when he wagged his tail to me, and wandered forth

again. It is a mistaken feeling of affection which

brings English dogs into this fierce climate. They

suffer cruelly, and are rarely long-lived. Even

" Jim," the dog of many fights, who has been with

the 8th Hussars ever since they landed in Bulgaria

in 1854, who went through the Danubian expedition,

and was present at Alma and Balaklava, and was

wounded at Inkermann who wore a Crimean medal

for twelve months at Dundalk, and accompanied the

regiment on its voyage to Bombay, and on its march

to Kotah even he, although " held up bravely by

the brave heart within," begins to show the effects of

78 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

heat and thirst. When leg-weary on the inarch,
he will fall "back until he recognises one of his
particular friends amongst the men, when he puts
his fore-paws 011 the stirrup-iron, and gets a ride
on the front of the saddle. Great will he the grief,
universal the mourning, whenever death claims
* c Jim : " and sturdy and quick Is the vengeance
wreaked upon man or dog who presumes to molest
this regimental favourite.

On the afternoon of the 1st April, an explosion
took place in the town of Kotali, which was dis-
tinctly visible in our camp. A quantity of the
enemy's powder, which had been parked, previously
to being transported to our lines, had been left under
a native guard. Some disaffected persons in the
town ignited it, and several men and two officers
of the 95th were killed and others wounded by the
explosion. A havildar and two men, forming part
of the guard, who happened to be in a shed inside
the yard where the powder was, were blown to
atoms. Two native sentries outside the wall never
moved from their posts. They stood firm, although
to have done so must have appeared to them certain
and instant death. Strange to say, neither of them
was hurt. They were especially recommended to
General Eoberts commanding the division.

An arbitrary abuse of power has for some time
caused great annoyance and discontent throughout
our regimental camp. No officer is permitted to

COMMISSAEIAT SHORTCOMINGS. 79

purchase forage for Ms horses, nor even to leave
the camp, until the commissariat officer has supplied
the proper amount of forage to the troop-horses. In
India every officer buys forage for his own horses at
his own cost, independently of the commissariat ; and
now, if he purchases hay, even at a distant village,
it is taken from him in case the troopers, through
the neglect of the commissariat, have not received
a fall supply. To visit the failures of the com-
missariat upon every officer in the regiment, seems
to me both unjust and unwarrantable; and I write
feelingly, as in consequence of not being permitted
to purchase what is freely offered for sale, our beau-
tiful white bullocks have had no grass for two days*
Of course our horses, and I believe those of every
officer in the regiment were equally deprived of their
grass.

At the end of this our most unsatisfactory first
act, wo are told that our destination 'is either
Neemuch or Nusseerabad. Wo have heard to-day,
April 8th, that the rebels, having got away from
Lucknow* are making for Central India. It is
;hought that the delay of Sir Hugh Rose's columa
it Saugor lias aftbrdpd them the opportunity of going
southwards. It is easy to foresee that this will give
as employment; so we no longer reckon with deligbfc
and certainty upon the bungalows of Neemuch. Ia-
ieed, it appears that so long as we remm m what our
Bandmaster Herr Adolphe Kbnig eaergeiieaMy calls

80 CAMPAIGNING EXPEETENCES.

" this detestable country," we must always be engaged
either in flight from, or in pursuit of an enemy.
The foe that especially annoys us now is numerous,
and always acting on the offensive harassing us
night and day; destroying, not only our comfort,
but our clothes. It is none other than that scourge
of India, the white ant. It is impossible for any
one who has not resided in the country to form an
idea of the depredations committed by these destruc-
tive little insects. Wooden boxes, carpets, leathern
bags,, straps, saddles, linen, bridles, boots, tent and
tent-polej are all equally the objects of their rapacity.
Nothing excludes them but glass or tin, and camphor
wood, which they cannot endure. So secret and
so speedy are they, that it is no unusual thing to
see the soles of boots, which have lain by for only
one day, half eaten through. Fortunately nearly
all our boxes are lined with tin ; and we have taken
the additional precaution of raising them from the
ground on bottles. Carpets, &c., require looking
to, at least twice a day ; and it is a good plan to
put all small leathern articles on tables, the legs of
which stand in iron saucers filled with water.

An instance of antique heroism, uncommon in
these civilized days, occurred during the assault on
Kotah. The rebel chiefs were endeavouring to
make the most favourable disposition of their forces,
and one of them rode with considerable difficulty
to the top of a fortification, from whence he could

DEATH BEFOBE DISHONOUR. 81

command a view of all that was going on. As the
mutineers began to fly, and the English pressed
into the town, it became evident to him that, before
he could descend, the enemy would be upon him,
and escape would be impossible. Choosing death,
rather than the disgrace of falling alive into our
hands, he gathered up his reins, and plunging his
armed heels into his horse's sides, rode him at the
parapet-wall. The horse rose bravely at his last
leap, and falling headlong with his rider a depth of
120 feet, both were crushed in one mangled mass
together. In the days of Saladin and Cceur de Lion,
that corpse would have been carefully gathered up,
and reverently buried, instead of being left to be
devoured by the pariah dogs and pigs.

We have at last received news of our flying
column, which has been out for eleven days. A
despatch has come in, saying that although they have
been unable to come up with the main body of the
rebels, yet they have taken seven guns, and are now
waiting for orders. The squadron of the 8th Hussars
reports only one man sick, and only four horses with
sore backs wonderfully less than we anticipated.

On the first afternoon that there was a slight breeze,
we started on horseback, a party of four, to ride into
Kotah, and see as much as we could of the town.
We passed the camps of the 10th Native Infantry and
Her Majesty's 95th, and shortly after came upon the
ruins of the bungalows that had been destroyed. The

82 CAMPAiG^rnsra EXPERIENCES.

principal of these was the Residency, where Major
Burton had lived, whose murder the rebels have now
such deep cause to regret ; and near it is the burial-
ground, where his daughter lies buried underneath a
handsome tomb. The houses, pleasantly situated
amidst large trees and flowering shrubs, presented
mere shells, and all things around told the same tale
of desolation. A large ornamental well, with broken
trough, stood in one of the enclosures ; but the only
beings at home amongst the general ruin were the
monkeys, which played among the trees, and sprang
from branch to branch, as gaily as though no human
blood had ever stained the soil beneath them. The
fortifications which surround the town of Kotah are
wonderfully massive. We read in the Bible of per-
sons inhabiting houses built in the thickness of the
wall at Jericho, but these walls are so thick that there
is a deep moat between the outer gate and that which
opens into the town. The streets were so strewn
with plunder, that our horses positively walked over
cushions, garments, bedsteads, sofas, and Persian
MSS. "We had difficulty to induce them to follow
such a gaudy path, and they proceeded with, many
snorts and shies until they gained a clearer thorough-
fare. A few wailing old men and women were alone
left to mourn for the city; and starving dogs and
bullocks roamed about gaunt, hungry, and grim.
We went into some of the temples, but found
nothing of interest The streets are narrow and ill-

PLUJSTDEBERS EST TROUBLE. 83

paved, and tlie town was pervaded by that strong and
pungent smell peculiar to the whole of the East* As
we were riding out of the town, we met with an
enormous boar which had come in, scenting future
feasts on ec all uncleanness." His tusk gleamed by
his dusky upper lip, and when he saw us he gave a
grunt and began to increase his speed. Fortunately
we were riding in single file, and he passed me and
Lieutenant Hayes, who rode next, without notice ;
but seeing more horses than he liked, he made a dart
at " The Rajah," who avoided him by springing tip
a side street. He then charged the last horse of our
party. The ill-paved street was so slippery that I
feared the horse must lose his footing; he did not
slip, however, but wheeled sharp round, and darted
off at a rate which showed that he appreciated the
tushes of his foe.

The native servants are possessed by the love of
plunder in an unconquerable degree. A provost-
sergeant was stationed at the gate nearest camp to
search all out-comers, whom, in case of resistance,
he had power to flog. Several camel-drivers eluded
him by concealing plundered articles in the hay with
which the camels were laden; but a ghorawallah,
who accompanied his master into the town, endea-
voured to cheat " Cerberus " by tying various articles
round his waist, underneath his clothes. " Hiailo ! n
barked Cerberus, fe you looks fatter than you did
when you followed your master into ae town.

84 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

Iderow (come here), you gliorawallali ! " And the poor
fellow, as lie was unwound, bid

"Farewell, a long farewell to all his greatness,"

with a sorrowful and disgusted face.

Haying made ourselves acquainted with the interior
of the town, we organized another party to inspect
the outside of the fortifications. To gain those on
the eastern side (the one from which the rebels had
escaped), we passed through spacious and shady
gardens, and came upon a group of twenty or thirty
tombs, some of them elaborately carved and adorned
with rich fretwork. Each of these temple-tombs
was approached by handsome flights of steps, orna-
mented with carved horses and elephants in bold
relief, while colossal elephants guarded the sacred
portals* Large trees added to the beautiful effect of
this secluded spot, after passing which we came to
the deep, wide lake, in itself a fortification. As we
neared the massive walls, flanked by towers and
bastions, with buttress and moat, we saw revolting
evidence of the work of death. The dogs and pigs
were busy at their work, and it was frightful to see
them tearing at the limbs of the dead. Near one of
the towers lay two men and three horses ; the latter
had their legs hobbled and tied together, as though
the slings had broken in an attempt to lower them
from the top of the tower. At the foot of another
tower lay the man who had been seen to leap over.

DEATH OF MAJOR BUKTOK 85

We scared away the unwilling dogs ; and I could not
help noticing, that where men and horses lay together,
the men were devoured before the horses were
touched. We returned home through the gardens
(needing the fragrance of the flowers), and watered
our horses at an irrigated rose-bed.

About this time the inhabitants were permitted to
return to the town, which, after many conferences,
had been given back to the Rajah an arrangement
which disappointed the hopes of those who were
calculating on a large amount of prize-money. At
first it was reported that ten pounds weight of jewels
had been seized, and that captains would receive at
least 400Z. and subalterns 200Z., but these golden
visions soon faded away. However, as by general
orders of April 7th a return of fighting men and
enlisted camp followers was to be sent into head-
quarters, it is probable that the rebels left behind
them a sufficient sum for every man to receive a
share.

I have been over the Residency to-day, and have -
seen the floor of the supper-room all smeared with
blood. It appears that Major Burton's head clerk,
Lalla, had conceived a spite against him, and seeing
the rebellion ripening he suddenly attacked the
Residency with 1,500 men and two guns. Major
Burton and his two sons retreated to an upper room,
and prepared to defend themselves in spite of the
odds of 1,500 against three, and of the round shot

86 CAMPAIGNING EXPEEIENCES.

from the guns in the garden, which burst every
moment through the walls. The river runs by the
back of the Residency; and the old man vainly
entreated his sons, who were expert swimmers, to
leave him and to save their lives. Firing from the
verandah on each side of their father, for three hours,
they kept the 1,500 men at bay, expecting that the
Eajah of Kotah would send boats dawn the river to
their father's relief. The traitorous Rajah sent no
boats ; and at last they were wearied out and over-
powered by numbers. The blood-stains are still
visible on the floor where they fell, and across which
they were dragged, that their bodies might be flung
over to the populace below.

On the 9th April the force before Kotah began to
disperse. The left wing of the 8th, under Lieutenant-
Colonel Naylor, marched for Nusseerabad, expecting
to go into cantonments there; and on the 16th the
detachment of Sind Horse also left us, having before
them a playful little march of 1,200 miles to
Jaeobabad.

87

CHAPTER VII.

" Trait'rous knaves, with plots designing,

Trembled at our sheathless sword,
Knowing that its splendrous shwaing
Was the glory of the Lord,"

" The sunbeams are my shafts, with which I kill."

SHBLUSJY.

" I haye lived my life, and that which I have done
May He himself make pure ! But thou,
If thou shouldst never see my face again,
Pray for my soul."

Morte d'Artur.

THE flying column returned on the morning of the
eleventh of April, bringing with them the captured
guns, and a considerable quantity of ammunition.
They had pursued the flying foe as rapidly as pos-
sible, obtaining as they went very little information,
and that little, vague and unsatisfactory. Once they
heard that the main body of the rebels was sixty
miles ahead, and it was debated whether the cavalry
should push on the whole distance at once, but this
plan was wisely rejected; for, independent of the
fatigue, the exposure of Europeans to the sun must
have been attended with fatal consequences* When
they had penetrated as far as the borders of Gwalior,

88 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

they learnt that the fugitives, whose track was
marked by the "bodies of slaughtered men and
women, had buried their treasure and dispersed.
During their flight a number of sowars always
preceded the rebel force, and pressed all the carts
and bullocks of the villages., and any attempt at
opposition was answered by death. By these means
their march was never hindered for want of trans-
port. The exhausted horses, or bullocks, were un-
harnessed and turned adrift, while pressed ones took
their places. So great was their haste, that if a
cart broke down it was pushed aside out of the road
and left. At one village the atrocities they com-
mitted were so outrageous, that the inhabitants, in
desperation, rushed out to attack them under cover
of the night, crying, "The English are coming!
the English are coming!" The effect of this war-
cry was magical. Like the Syrians of old " they arose
and fled," leaving their camp as it was. The seven
guns thus abandoned fell into the hands of the
pursuers, who were in reality nearer at hand than
the brave villagers had supposed. Some distance
further on an eighth gun was discovered among
some bushes. We rode tip the next day to inspect
the guns, which are of brass. One is a small camel
gun ; and the rest, although possessing great weight
of metal, will only carry a shot of about five and a
half or six pounds.

I mentioned before, that amongst the cavalry at

JACOB'S HOESE. 89

Kotah, there were detachments of Jacob's Sind
Horse, and also of Belooches. The former, judging
by those we saw, must be a very fine body of men.
No married man is enlisted into the corps, or per-
mitted to remain in it; and the anxiety of the Sin-
dians to be admitted into it is said to be very great.
The candidates, if satisfactory in other respects, are
mounted on horseback, without a saddle, and with
a plain watering-bridle. They are then taken to a
steeple-chase ground, extending over two miles, and
supplied, artificially and naturally, with every kind
of obstacle, and told that the first men in will be
chosen. Even before I had heard of this initiatory
process, I used to admire these dashing riders, who
sat so easily on their horses, and looked so well.
During the expedition of our flying column there
was a ford to be crossed deep, wide, and difficult ;
but they made no check. Plunging into it, they
splashed and scrambled through it in ten minutes ;
while it took our people, with their steadier notions,
twice that time to cross. They are allowed a certain
sum, out of which they provide their own horses, or
Government perhaps would hardly approve of such
expeditious movements.

The Belooches are a kind of Indian Bashi-Basouks.
They wear their own dress, ride their own tattoos
(little native ponies), and are the most inveterate
plunderers. On entering a village they disperse and
scramble over the roofs, or in at the windows ; any-

90 CAMPAIGNING EXPEBJOStfCES.

how, or anywhere, so long as anything in the shape
of booty is to "be obtained. On one occasion, a
native of one of the large villages came, with clasped
hands, to prefer a complaint. " They have robbed
me and my wife of everything that we possess ; we
are stripped, and utterly ruined." The accused were
searched, in spite of profuse protestations of inno-
cence, but nothing was found. At last suspicion
was directed to a saddle; it was taken from the
horse's back, and when the lining was ripped open,
the stuffing was found to be composed of shawls,
scarfs, turbans, and money. "Yes," said the plun-
dered victim, "these are mine; but these are not
all, there are yet more shawls." The ingenuity of
the searchers was at fault, until somebody bethought
them of the nose-bags of the horses. There was
grain in each; but when the bags were turned
upside down, with the grain fell out the missing
property. The officer commanding the Belooches
having been requested to punish the guilty men
severely, as a warning to the rest, soon after sent to
say that their horses would be sold and the price
put into the prize fund, that they were to receive
fifty lashes, to march on foot, and to be imprisoned
for sk months ; a the sajne time he requested to know
whether these punishments were considered sufficient,
or whether he should add anything else.

The irregulax cavalry rarely unsaddle their horses,
lest by doing so they should disclose the fearful sores

MILITARY EXECUTIONS. 91

upon their backs. So long as their horses -will feed,
they do not trouble themselves about anything else ;
but they are careful to provide them with sufficient
forage, knowing that without it the little creatures
could never perform the work expected of them.

The news of the fall of Jhansi, which reached us
yesterday, is confirmed by Colonel Price, command-
ing the Royal Artillery here.

The head-quarter wing of the 8th Hussars, on
leaving Kotah, was to march into cantonments for
the hot and rainy seasons at Nusseerabad; but as
Colonel De Salis had taken a house at Neemuch, he
exerted all his influnce, and eventually with success,
to have the head-quarters ordered to Neemoch.
Courts-martial on our prisoners have been busy for
some time; and on the 13th. April sentence was
passed upon Kedra Bux, and Alem Gha. The former
was acquitted, and the latter sentenced to transporta-
tion for life, for aiding and abetting in rebellion
against the Government of the East India Company.
Several men have been hanged ; but as these execu-
cutions took place, happily for us, on the other side of
the river, they did not create interest or disturbance
in our camp.

TJie sun in this perfectly unsheltered plain grows
more and more intolerable every day ; and living a&
we do, surrounded by camels, horses, bullocks, mi
dogs, within, a doaen yards of our tent, a standing
camp soon becomes unhealthy. The thermometer in

92 CAMPAIGNINa EXPERIENCES.

our large tent, at noon, is either 108 or 109, and in
the baychuba (a single-roofed tent) one degree higher.
The sun Hazes and blisters, and "being a God,
kissing carrion," corrupts everything exposed to his
fierce heat. I now feel the effects of our severe
march. My strength is gone. I am unequal to
any effort or fatigue, and look with absolute dread
upon the horses, knowing that I shall soon be com-
pelled to ride them, however unfit I may be. My
mind overwrought and exhausted fell back during
my illness to places long ago left, and to friends
many years dead* I fancied myself a child, once
more at home. I could not account for my prolonged
absence, nor why mamma had not sent the carriage
to fetch me that mother whom I last saw in my
golden childhood laid out in her coffin just twenty
years ago. It is satisfactory to know that our band-
master, Herr Adolphe Konig, has reached Bombay,
as the want of his delicious harmony has been felt
and acknowledged by most of us. The band instru-
ments, however, are all in store at Deesa, as they
were found to have been injured by frequent falls
from the backs of unsteady camels.

We left Kotah on the 19th of April, and recom-
menced our wanderings. General Roberts, with a
party of his division, preceded us by one night ou
the road to Neemuch ; whither, as we believed, wo
were all bound. Brigadier Smith, -who had been
detained on his march from Bombay, had lately

A NEW BRIG-ADIEK. 93

joined General Roberts, and taken the command of
his brigade. We started in the expectation of
making an eighteen days' march to Neemuch, with
the prospect of settling in cantonments either there
or at Nusseerabad. It was well we left Kotah when
we did, for it is supposed to be one of the hottest
and most unhealthy places in this part of India-
It becomes of great importance to us to know oar
destination before the rains, as in consequence of
having left our mess-stores at Deesa, we are quite
out of supplies. No sherry, no beer although,
indeed, both are procurable in small quantities from
Parsee rapacity at four guineas and two guineas a
dozen respectively. Our first march of eleven miles,
to Jugpoora, was accomplished without incident or
adventure. We passed the fragrant trees that
shadow the gardens on the eastern side of 'Kotah,
and then emerged upon a rocky plain, which must
have given the staunch little horses of the artillery
rough and slippery work. Our halting-place was
near a grove of palm and mango-trees, which shelters
a spring and stream of clearest water. The next
day's march, of eight miles, brought us to Hunoubra,
and here we were nearly having an adventure.
The camel-drivers, after each day's march, take
their camels to graze in the vicinity of the camp ;
and it appeared that some camel-drivers of General
Roberts' force, which had passed through Hunoubra
on the previous day, had torn down branches from

94 CAMPAIGmNG EXPERIENCES.

the mango-trees to feed their beasts. The villagers
sought to indemnify themselves Iby seizing two of our
own private camel-men, whom they "beat severely,
robbed, and finally sent back to camp without their
camels. They came to us immediately to complain,
and the matter was reported to the Brigadier; upon
which, some European soldiers, with an interpreter,
were despatched with orders to bring in the culprits
and the head man of the village. They came,
escorted by the Hussars, and looking in a terrible
fright The punishment, however, was merely an
order to refund the stolen money (ten rupees), and
the administration of a few blows to the head man,
to remind him that it was his duty to keep order.
It was thought that more notice should have been
taken of the matter; for the bungalow, formerly
occupied by the sergeant employed to survey the
roads, had been reduced by the inhabitants to a heap
of ruins ; and they were reported to have cut the
throats of two camel-men, who passed through on
a previous occasion with a European force.

Last night, during our long and rough march to
Ahmedpoora, my husband's horse became alarmed ;
and, springing aside, lost his footing, and rolled over
a steep embankment. Fortunately, neither were
hurt, beyond a few cuts and bruises; but when
the white horse galloped wildly away across the
boundless plain in the dim twilight, I never expected
to see him any more.

ROADS AND BRIDGES. 95

The villagers scowl at us as we pass. We are
now in the territory through which Holkar chased
General Munsen after having defeated him near the
Mukundra Pass. The roads are infamous. Surely
the Government of India might oblige the various
rajahs to make passable roads through their several
districts. It would very much facilitate the passage
of troops, if it were productive of no other good ;
and would entail but a small tax upon each state.
The Rao of Cutch has made a really fine road,
elevated and drained, with bridges, and in places a
footpath, extending from Mandavee to Bhooj, merely
on the suggestion of the Political Agent; whereas
we often marched over very bad and rough tracks,
which, with a little trouble and labour, might have
been level and sound. In going up the Mukundra
Pass, we rode over rocky ways that ftr a couple
of miles were all but impracticable for guns. Large
masses of rock impeded us at every step, while at
one time we descended a path resembling steep and
uncomfortably narrow stairs, which thirty or forty
men, with hammers and blasting-powder, might in
a few weeks have converted into a good road.
Bridges might be constructed by the same means
over the many rivers, which are impassable during
the rains; and which, even in the dry season, present
deep, rocky, and dangerous fords. On the trunk-
road;, near Mahona, it was a real pleasure to see a
beautiful and well-built bridge.

96 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

CHAPTER VIII.

" Helas ! helas ! que la mort est amere !
Hier encore nous e*tions si joyeux
Adieu, Marie r Adieu, ma pauvre mere !
Deja je sens appesantir mes yeux "

Le Soldat Hour ant

" Marching, marching, ever marching
'Neath the Sun-God's madd'ning glow~
Soul-sick, weary, staggering, parching,
Following still a phantom foe."

ANON.

AFTER crossing the Mukundra Pass, we came to
Beheeborra, where the faithless vox populi said we
were to halt for a day, as General Roberts and the
rest of the division were waiting there. Besides
our own brigade, which consisted of 1st Bombay
Lancers, 8th Hussars, 3rd Troop Horse Artillery,
her Majesty's 95th, and the 10th Native Infantry,
we brought in the heavy guns, which had been
obliged to halt for a day at Muiundra, in order
that the bullocks might recover the shaking and
exertion of drawing the siege-train up the Pass.
Before finally arranging our tent, I thought it would
be advisable to ascertain whether the report respect-
ing the halt was true or not. The Colonel's answer

MORE WORK. 97

took me aback. " Halt ! Oh, no. On the con-
trary, the Brigadier has just informed me that we
start to-morrow morning in pursuit of the escaped
rebels ; that is to say, we are Jo inarch down to the
Grand Trunk Road, as Sir Hugh Rose is advancing,
and requires our brigade to protect his rear. We
are ordered to send our sick to Neemuch, and to
take provisions for a month." So we found that there
was more work to be clone before going into canton-
ments, but we little thought at that tune how long
it would last. "We were comforted by the assurances
of all the officers who had previously served in India,
that it was impossible that we could remain out
another month, as the heat would render campaigning
impossible. " I remember," said one officer, " being
out in the Punjaub until the 28th April, but that
was quite unprecedented."

At two o'clock on the following morning (April
25th), the brigade marched for Jubra-Patten. We
were told the distance was eight miles; we found
it considerably nearer eighteen. Just before reaching
camp, we crossed a branch of the Chumbul River
by two fords, and most delicious and refreshing
was the cool water, in which our horses pawed and
splashed, and buried their dusty heads. Turkey
possesses a great advantage over this country in its
clear fountains, with their large troughs of pure
water, which are immeasurably superior to the tanks
and wells of India. The water of the latter^ nearly

H

98 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

always more or less stagnant, is often the colour
of mud ; and I have sometimes fancied that it has
anything but a cleansing effect upon the skin. Our
bheestie frequently go.es to four or five wells, before
he can procure water fit to drink; and it usually
has an earthy taste, which, if not unwholesome, is at
any rate excessively disagreeable. When poured into
the common earthenware ce chatty" of the country,
which is very porous, and placed, in the hot wind,
it becomes almost as cold as through the agency of
ice. The thermometer has now risen to 114 to
115. I hastily took up a bunch of keys which
had been lying for some time on the table in the
tent, exposed to the hot wind, and had to drop them
very quickly, for they burnt my fingers.

This is the anniversary of the day on which we
had left England for Constantinople and Bulgaria
in 1854, and of that on which we had embarked at
Ismid to return home in 1856.

Jubra-Patten is a large fortified town, well supplied
with water, and possessing really fine gardens, in
which, notwithstanding the heat, we were tempted
to stroll at evening-tide. We are unable to halt here
on account of the Rajah's troops. They must be a
lawless set, for their own suzerain is afraid of them,
and earnestly requested that none of our soldiers
might be allowed to communicate with them, or to
visit their camp. He will not admit them into his
town at any time, and at night he shuts his gates,

THE HOT WINDS. 99

and points liis guns on their lines. It was half
hoped that an excuse might he found for attacking
them; but nothing of the kind occurred, so we
continued our wanderings, crossing a dry, but very
wide river bed, believed to be a tributary of the
ChumbuL At TJsawarra, where we halted, after
eight days' consecutive marching, we thought our-
selves fortunate in securing u group of jfcrees, ( beneath
which the Brigadier and staff and several officers
pitched their tents. The shade was an inestimable
blessing in the daytime, bat we soon learned the
disadvantages of sleeping where a free current of
air cannot be obtained. I spent the whole night
in alternately bathing, walking about, and fanning
myself with an English fan, for we had not at that
time oven a hand-punkah. We are now in the
Bengal Presidency, and many of our servants, who
look tipon the frontier of Bombay as upon the
boundary of another world, give indications of a
desire to run, which obliges us to watch them closely.
An officer having incautiously mentioned, in the
hearing of one of them, who understood English, that
wo should not return to Neenwich, first caused the
alarm,

Our next halt, after three days, marked by aa
particular incident, was at Chuppra, a large town on
the borders of Tonk and Gwalior. We forded two
rivers during the last march from BerodL After
passing the second, which was tteep&r tjhafc usual,

H 2

100 CAMPAIGNING EXPEKIENCES.

and in the middle of which a cart, drawn by two
bullocks, was upset, we met the chief man resident
in Chnppra. He is secretary to the Nawab of Tonk,
and had come out with an escort of fifty men to
conduct us to our encamping ground. The foot
soldiers of his party were armed with swords and
matchlocks, and the cavalry carried blunderbusses.
They rode t]ae horses of the country, and the cos-
tumes of some of them were wondrously grotesque.
The Secretary himself was handsomely dressed
in a green velvet head-dress, very like the cowl
of a chimney-pot, and a black robe extensively em-
broidered. One of his officers rode a trained charger,
taught to adopt a showy and graceful prance, which
had, however, entirely superseded his natural action.
I inquired if he were for sale, and was told that
"no price could be put upon him, but, if ho pleased
me, he was mine as a gift." The inhabitants, who
manifested a very friendly spirit, informed us that
Lalla, with a body-guard of rebels, had lately passed
within six miles of them, and that he was supposed
to be still in the neighbourhood; but as ho is not
permitted to enter the villages, either here or in
Gwalior, it is presumed that his followers must bo
starving in the jungle.

On the evening of our arrival at Chuppra the
Secretary courteously sent an elephant, that I might
ride on it to see the town. The sonorous voice of
a large bell attached to his trappings, announced his

FOUNTAINS AT CIIUPPBA. 101

approach. He was an enormous fellow, although
still youthful (being only fifty years old), with an
expression almost ludicrous, of cunning and wisdom;
in his little bright, twinkling eyes. His approach
to our tent frightened the horses nearly out of their
senses. To our disappointment there was no ladder
or means of climbing into the howdah, unless by
scrambling up his trunk or his tail, so lie had to
return the way he came, trumpeting ' to show his
satisfaction, and bundling himself off with more
expedition than grace. There is something very
laughable in the hurried gait of an elephant. His
hocks bending inward, like the human knee, suggest
the idea of an old man shuffling along in a hurry.

There are here very handsome stone tanks and
A\ells, containing deliciously clear water. On the
last day of our halt, by special mid urgent invi-
tation, we accompanied the Brigadier and a large
party of the natives to the gardens of the Ressildar,
** to see the fountains play." We rode through the
ill-constructed and unsavoury town, and, after many
ups and downw, came to the gardens, which wero
thronged with an expectant crowd. On our arrival,
five or six jots began dribbling into a small basin
in the most melancholy way, to the admiration and
delight of the inhabitants, whoso imaginations were
not haunted by tho memories of Sydenham or Ver-
sailles. Tho next day we

41 Folded ow tents like tho Arabs; "

102 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

and as the heat of the sun renders a standing camp
intolerable after a few days, we were not sorry to
change the ground, and march towards Shikarpoor.
The first ten miles were smooth enough ; but we
then descended abruptly, and came to' three stream s,
forming in the rainy season the one enormous body
of the Parbuttee river, the bed of which is composed
of rock and large loose "stones, affording very un-
certain footing. We passed these f c uncanny " fords
with only one horse down, and camped in some very
pretty and green jungle on the other side.

The next morning Brigadier Smith started with
the Bombay Lancers, four g^ins of the Horse
Artillery, one troop (or rather two half troops) of
the 8th Hussars, the greater part of the 95th and
10th N. L to Pardoun, in the hopo of coming
across the rebel force and capturing Lalla, who
was reported to be hidden in a cave in that neigh-
bourhood. The expedition resulted in the capture
of an elephant, and, I believe, two guns. The rebels,
awaare that they wore pursued, fled just in time to
save themselves, leaving their spoil in the hands of
ihe pursuers.

Whilst the Brigadier and the greater part of the
force were gone to Pardoun, the remainder ro-
crossed the rocky fords, and moved out of the thick
jungle, which was reported to contain tigers, encamp^
ing on open ground close to the village of Shikarpoor,
which owes its name to the quantity of large game

SCARCITY OF STORES. 103

in its vicinity, Shikar in Hindostanee meaning, I
believe, sport, and Shikaree sportsmen.

On the third day of our halt, while my husband
and I were angling for little fishes in tlio Parbuttee,
Lieutenant Webster came in from the Brigadier,
bearing an order for the force to march at 3 A.M, on
IFuttyghur. I was too tired with my excursion in
the sun to be able to start before daybreak, and then
my mind was full of uneasiness about certain bottles
of lemonade and ginger beer, which, I feared would
bo broken if trusted upon the back of a camel. Those
who have campaigned in an Indian summer will
enter into my anxieties^ and can judge how tenderly
the bottles were laid in a circular basket filled with
hay, and how carefully they were deposited in a
comer of the gharry, Boer we had none: nor
sherry, nor vegetables of any description save our
old Bulgarian friend, the onion bloat vegetable, that
diffuses its odour over most of the desert places of
the earth. We expected to suffer a good deal from
the want of necessary supplies, nor were we deceived.
Alter traversing a rocky, precipitous and slippery
road, we encamped beneath some trees close to the
Fort of Futtyghur, from which the Rajah fired &
fofade-joie at. our approach.

The Brigadier, whom we found here, informed us
that our destination was again changed, and titiat
Sopree, a small station in the Gwalior territory,
sixty miles from Jhansl, and situated north-east of

104 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

Mhow, was to be our quarters during the rains. All
hope of shelter from the hot weather we have aban-
doned. The heat is now at its highest, the ther-
mometer ranging up to 118 to 119. Bungalows,
at least the ruins of them, are reported to exist at
Sepree ; and as it is upon the Trunk Road, we begin
to hope that it may be possible even during the rains
to get up supplies from. Bombay. We despair of
obtaining all our own special comforts left at Deosa ;
linen, dresses, gloves, writing paper, books, boots,
lamps, &c. ; indeed we shall be lucky if wo see
them next year.

We left Futtyghur by a stony nullah, through
which it was scarcely possible to drag the guns;
and, after about five miles, reached Jaighur, whore
we awaited our baggage in the friendly shelter of a
temple overlooking a shaded stream, in which the
men were soon busily engaged fishing; and with n
very rude kind of rod, one of them landed a largo
water tortoise and some spotted fish resembling
trout.

The next morning, at 3 A.M., we resumed our march
and halted at Goonah, a station on the Grand Trunk
Hoad, with several bungalows, the ruinous condition
of which gave evidence of the ravages of the muti-
neers. As we approached, we wore met by Captain
Mayne and an escort of the Irregular Horse ho
commands. We were struck with the soldier-like
appearance of the party, and with the superior class

THE LUXURY OJF A HALT. 105

of horses they rode. One of the native
krge stout man with a decoration on his breast,
comes from Delhi, where he possesses considerable
property. Every effort had been made to induce
him to abandon his allegiance to the English, but in
vain. lie was tempted and threatened by turns,
and at last his property was destroyed. His loyalty
and courage have gained for him the confidence of
his commanding officers, and the sympathy and
admiration of all to whom his history is known.
Captain Mayne whose family and mine are ac-
quainted, as I afterwards discovered showed us
every attention and kindness, and endeavoured as
far as possible to make us forget our harassing
march. While sitting in the cool shade of his
spacious Bengal touts, he recounted to us the story
of his own and his wife's escape from the mutineers
a story full of anxiety and dread on his part, and of
deep suffering and almost loss of life on hers; for,
forty-eight hours after she was aroused in the middle
of the night, and compelled to conceal herself in the
garden until her husband could convey her to n
carriage, her child wus born. How little we know
of the cases of individual suffering these mutinies
have caused !

Not content with burning tlui bungalows, th
rebels defaced the tomb of a child, the daughter of
Mr. Belton, formerly in the Contingent here* In
times of peace a bullock train runs from Bombay to

106 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

Agra along the Trunk Road, and even now we
found the advantage of being upon it; as at Mhow,
only two days post from Goonah, there are several
Parsee shops where all kinds of stores can be pro-
cured. We expected to remain here for three days,
and then to proceed up the Trunk Road to Seprce,
only about sixty-five miles further in a northerly
direction. But the 15th of May brought the frus-
tration of these hopes.

About five o'clock in the afternoon of that day a
party of natives rode into camp, bringing the in-
formation that the rebels, to the number of 6,000,
had assembled and retaken Chandaree, a fortified
town from whence Sir Hugh Rose had ejected them
in the previous month of March. The fort was then
garrisoned by the soldiers of Scindia, Maharajah of
Gwalior, and the guns left in position. When the
rebels attacked it, these men, after losing about a
hundred of their number, ran away, leaving the
enemy in possession of fort and guns* Brigadier
Smith, upon receipt of this intelligence, lost no time
in putting himself in communication both wiih Sir
Hugh Rose and with General Roberts, as its occu-
pation by a rebel force not only affected the town of
Chandaree, but rendered the road between Goonah
and Jhansi unsafe.

We have just had an instance of the wonderful
things women can do. Mrs. Cotgrave, the wife of an
officer in the 3rd Europeans, who was stationed at

WOMAN'S FORTITUDE. 10?

Jhansi, and had obtained permanent employment
there, determined to join her husband. With a
little graceful and delicate child of four years old,
and her ayah, she left Poona, and travelled by
bullock train to Mhow. Here great difficulties were
made, and reasonably, on the part of the authorities,
as there was danger in allowing her to proceed.
Fearing she would be detained, she left Mhow one
night unexpectedly, and travelled in a gharry without
an escort of any kind. As they were passing through
thick jungle, the gharry, with its helpless freight of
two women and a little girl, broke down. The
native cart, containing the baggage, had gone on,
and was some distance in front. Mrs. Cotgravc's
fear of tigers and wild beasts was very great; but
she told me that she sat by the wayside during more
than an hour, with her little child held tightly in her
arms, and trembling with fear, for the jackals were
screaming round her with their frightful and un-
earthly laugh, while the gharry wallah mended the
(iart. After many delays and adventures, she reached
Goonah ; and I had the satisfaction of hearing, some
time afterwards, that she had rejoined her husband
at Jhansi in safety. On the 18th Muy, wo shifted
our camp, which the sun was rendering unsavoury ;
aad on, the 2()th May* we ;igairx started on cmr
pilgrimage ; this time hound to Chandaree, to clis-
Mge lihe rebel occupants of the fort The Brigade
divided ; a part of the force consisting of Bom-

108 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES,

bay Lancers, and some of the 10th N. I. going to
Kollariss, near Sepree, to keep the Trunk Road
open, while the rest marched first on Pinnigutti.
Here we were encamped on an open plain to the
east of the Sind Elver, which we forded just before
we set up our tents.

Many of the rebels who fled from Kotah are no\v
forming part of the garrison at Chandarec, and the
newspapers are demanding an explanation of their
escape. No place in this part of the country appear*
to be secure. Colonel Whitclock, coming down from
Agra, was shot on the Trunk lload about four days
since, having fallen in with a body of rebels. We
have been gratified by reading in one of the Indian
papers a just tribute to Brigadier Smith's column,
and to the courage with which it has supported the
trials of a most harassing march. The 95th are,
mazry of them, now obliged to wear native shoes,
their own being entirely worn out Some of the
10th N. L have been despatched from Goonah to
Jubra-Patten, to bring up supplies of shoes and
boots. But when will they rejoin xis, r whore?
In the meantime tliQ 95th must march on, foot-
sore and weary, as best tiicy can. The doctors feur
that scurvy -will show itself on account of the ab-
sence of nourishing food, beer, and, more particu-
larly, of sleep,

We might almost have been said to have groped
otu; way to Chandaree, so uncertain, unsatisfactory.

SIGNS OF THE REBELS. 109

and contradictory was the information afforded to
the Brigadier. On one point, however, all seem
agreed, namely, that the rebels are in force.

On the 21st, we marched to Shahdowra, reaching
our camp at about half-past five A.M., and so being
housed before the sun acquired much power.

On the 24th May, the Queen's birthday, we ad-
vanced to Jharee, and, whilst on the march, came to
villages which had been plundered but a few hours
previously by five hundred of the rebels, who were
reported to be encamped on the other side of the
river, on the banks of which we were to set up our
tents.

Our fighting instincts were once more aroused.
We fully hoped to come up with, and account for, an
enemy who appeared so close at hand. It is, how-
ever, scarcely necessary to say that no opposing
force appeared to interrupt the even tenor of our,
way. An extra ration of grog was served out to
the men in honour of the day. The natives, who
rode into camp towards evening, still persisted in the
proximity of our invisible foe. They told the Briga-
dier of a ghaut, with a fortified gateway, in our next
march, which would probably be defended. One of
the men ef the 8th Hussars remarked to-day : " I
should like to sec a live rebel; we've been going
after them so long, I begin to doubt if there are any
at all." Although thick jungle, ghaut, and gateway
would all be in favour of our enemies, very few were

110 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

sanguine as to meeting them, though all concurrt
in hoping that fortune would befriend us. Oi
Brigadier is so beloved for his unselfishness, kin<
ness of heart, and urbanity of manner, that evei
one desires a victory on his account, as well as (
their own. The strong winds preceding the mo-
soon had now been blowing for two or three da;y
and we were in hourly dread of the commenceme
of the rain. In that case, good-bye to all comfoi
or even locomotion. Had the heavens unlock<
their flood-gates at this time, we must just ha-
remained where we were; for the poor attenuate
camels that pervaded our camps, wandering wi
silent footsteps, like ghosts, could never have tran
ported our baggage for another march. Twent;
four hours' rain would, moreover, have made it in
possible to cross the Betwa River.

On the 25th May we left Khorwassan at dayligl
and marched in search of the ghaut and gatewa
The gateway proved a fiction, but we crossed a wi<
river with banks so steep and difficult that it wou.
have been an admirable place for acting on ti
defensive. The jungle all through the march was
thick as to necessitate strong flanking parties on ea<
side of the track ; and sis prisoners, whom we ca
tared the day before, persisted in asserting that
was haunted by the mutinous forces. A singul
cluster of tombs, with plain Grecian porticos su
ported on rows of pillars, and tall bulbous rooJ

A FURIOUS BATTLE. Ill

crowned the river "bank. The Brigadier and Bri-
gade-Major each took possession of a house in the
village. We preferred our own tent to the by no
means tempting-looking rooms, notwithstanding that
the Brigadier courteously offered us his house. We
halted nine miles from Chandaree, "without having
seen an enemy; hut soon afterwards an exciting
scene of a different kind occurred. The greatest
animosity exists between Arab horses and the little
ponies of the country, commonly called Tattoos.
Some of these wretched animals belonging to the
grass-cutters and camp followers, strayed into the
lines of the Horse Artillery. In a few minutes their
whole camp was in an uproar. The troop horses
struggled, and screamed, and fought as though they
were possessed. Every man, whether native or
European, ran to join in the furious fray; for to
quell it was impossible. Horse after horse broke
loose, and galloped wildly away with yards of rope
and picket-posts dangling at their heels. Those that
could not fasten on the ponies, rushed at each other,
and fought on their own score. The combatants
were knocked down, trampled upon, and torn amid
an accompaniment of the most fiendish yells. Order
was restored when the belligerents were tired, and
a long list of casualties was sent in to the Brigadier ;
all the mischief being set down to the unfortunate
and suffering ponies, which had strayed in search of
food. Three horses were very severely injared, and

112 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

limped along for many a day behind the column, in
the care of their ghorawallahs.

We met with a misfortune at Goonah, in the
lameness of my strong and good-tempered horse
Prince. He ran a splinter into the coronet of his
off fore foot, whilst going at a foot-pace along the
Trunk Koad, and being unable to put the wounded
foot to the ground, he was left in the kind charge of
Captain Mayne. For a long time I used to miss his
large black eyes whenever I went to visit his com-
panions ; and my regret was hardly dissipated, even-
when Bobby, the most independent and consequen-
tial of all little round-faced terriers, condescended to
leave his master, Sir John Hill, our then Brigade-
Major, and to honour me with a visit which he was
careful not to make too long.

We expected on tlie following day to appear before
Chandaree, but " the even tenor of our way " was
interrupted by a violent storm. The breeze, which
had been blowing strongly all the morning, became
by noon a sort of burning hurricane ; and at four
o'clock, after the thunder had given a preparatory
growl, down came the rain. I scarcely remember
to have seen a fiercer squall, for the time it lasted.
Tents went down like ninepins ; our hospital was the
first to go, and the poor sick men were transferred to
the table of the mess tent. The Horse Artillery and
95th mess tents followed, smashing in their fall glass
and china, precious, because not to be replaced.

A FATAL M ABOIL 113

Several private tents were prostrated, and we feared
greatly that the one we occupied would go also;
and it would have done so, if all the establishment
had not held on to the ropes and flies.

Of course there was an end of marching at 3 A. M.,
as the camels, fearfully diminished in numbers and in
strength, could hardly stagger along even with light
loads and in a light soil. We were, therefore, compelled
to wait until the tents were dry. At about half-past
nine we began to strike, and at eleven commenced to
march. It was imperative to move on, as we were
in thick jungle, surrounded by the enemy, and within
nine miles of their stronghold ;^ but the inarch,
directly and indirectly, cost several lives. Two men
of the 95th were struck clown by the sun, and
perished where they fell. One poor fellow dropped
backwards as if shot, just as I rode up, and in a
few moments the convulsive action commenced in all
his limbs; his lips and face became black almost
before life was extinct. The men of the 95th oil this
day, and for some time after, marched in their
scarlet jackets. The fatigue of walking in such heat
is enormous, and when to that is added a close-
fitting cloth dress, of course it must be doubled. It
seems to me most wanton to sacrifice life to appear-,
anco in such a way.

The calculation is that each European soldier costs
more than one hundred pounds to equip and send
out to this country. Surely, then, from economical,

I

114 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

if not for any higher motives, everything should be
done to alleviate his sufferings, and to give him a
chance for his life. I would myself on no account
venture out in the sun with a forage cap and thin
white cover on my head, such as the men wear ; tut
when to that is added the dress made for and suited
to an English climate, the want of common sense
becomes still more apparent,

The 8th Hussars march in stable jackets, cloth
overalls, and forage caps with covers even a hotter
dress than that worn by the infantry; and the
officers., and most of the men, have sheepskins on
their saddles, the heat and discomfort of which are
very great; but being mounted, they have not to
make the same exertions as a foot soldier.

The dress of the 3rd troop of Horse Artillery
contrasts pleasantly enough with those which I have
described. Officers and men wear the helmet
covered with white, thickly padded round the tem-
ples, loose white serge jackets over their shirts, and
regimental overalls. They have no sheepskins,
which make the saddles of the Hussars a penance
to sit on.

About half-past three we halted before Chandaree,
and took up our ground. Our march was of neces-
sity slow, as the road lay through more than one
mountain pass, and infantry in skirmishing order

* The 95th have since "been supplied with light and suitable
clothing.

EVACUATION OP CHANDAREE. 115

were sent out to clear tlie heights. Lieutenant
Pierce, with a party of the 10th N. L, took some
few prisoners who were lurking about. A recon-
noitring party went out with the Brigadier as soon
as the ground was taken up, and it was quickly dis-
covered that if no rebels were to be seen outside the
walls, there were plenty of them within. They
fired with tolerable precision upon the Brigadier's
party, and 'the Quartermaster-general very narrowly
escaped being wounded in the foot, the strap being
torn from his overall by a bullet. Working parties
went out at dusk, to make the road passable for the
guns to get into position. The fortifications looked
ugly enough, as the breach made by Sir Hugh Rose
was strongly repaired, and we had only 6-pounder
field guns and a couple of twelve pound howitzers,
wherewith to make another. I was thoroughly tired
out with my long ride in the sun, and slept as though
there were no rebels in the world* Colonel Blake-
had kindly offered to show me a place- from which I
could watch all the operations of the siege, and 1
went to sleep, fully intending to avail myself of his
offer, but the- next morning I did not wake until sfo^
when I heard two guns fired slowly one after the
other, I soon learnt that these wore- the guns of
tho Horse Artillery, and that they had fired upon *n
empty town* At midnight tho mutinous
fled from the place, leaving us to take
without the opportunity of a shot or & blow.- So

116 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

long as the secret intelligence department is in-
adequately paid, the rebels must draw great advan-
tage and impunity from our ignorance. No native
thinks it worth his while to afford information which
may endanger his life for the sake of three or four
rupees, whereas he might be tempted to run a risk
for 200 or 300. Meantime our servants are acting
as spies for our enemies. A ghorawallah, belonging
to one of the troops of the 8th Hussars, deserted
soon after we left Deesa. He was found at Kotah ;
but as he gave a good account of himself, and tho
regiment was in want of ghorawallahs, lie was taken
back. Shortly after we left Kotah he deserted again
and was found in Chandaree, where, with six others,
he was shortly afterwards hanged. Two days after
the flight of the rebels, a letter was received, stating
that the Ranee of Teary, anxious to manifest her
friendly feeling towards the English, had despatched
a force of 3,000 men, under command of Captain
Maclean, to join us. As this force was supposed to
be marching from the direction towards which the
rebels had fled, we hoped that it might fall in with
them ; but day by day went by, and we heard no
more tidings of it.

Sir Hugh Rose appears to possess, in an emi-
nent degree, what the French term "un talent
pour la gloire" and his progress through Central
India must have been most triumphant. But so
scanty is the information which reaches us, that

BEAUTIFUL RUINS. 117

we know little beyond our own adventures, and
that little, as in the Crimea, chiefly through the
English papers. On the afternoon of the day
following the flight of the rebels (May 27th), we
rode with Sir John Hill through the town and fort,
which are surrounded by natural fortifications con-
sisting of precipitous hills, between which lie deep
vallies clothed with green. In these are massive and
beautiful tombs, standing singly and in clusters, close
to the walls of the city. We have seen no town in
India which can compare with Chandaree, and no
ruins which equal in beauty its temples,, houses, and
decaying tombs. Tall gateways carved with delicate
tracery, and a large temple adorned with elaborate
carvings and filled with gods in various coloured
marbles, give an idea of the former splendours of the
place. But now the city is silent and deserted;
our horses' footfalls ring unanswered through the
streets, and the presence of one or two decrepit men
and women creeping in and out of the houses only
makes the desolation more apparent. We mounted
its steep streets and gained the rugged road that
wound upwards to the fort. Passing through the
latter we rode to the breach, and saw whore the guns
of the Horse Artillery had been placed in the morn-
ing, and also the position of the heavy guns, during
Sir Hugh Rose's bombardment We returned in
the light of sunset, and I felt saddened and depressed,
for the spell of the silent city was upon me ; its pro-

118 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

found and beautiful desolation reminded me of the
exclamation of Jeremiah when lamenting over Jeru-
salem : "How doth the city sit solitary that was full
of people ! How is she become as a widow ! "

The place is surrounded by two lines of fortifica-
tion, the outer one running from hill to hill about a
mile and a half in front of the actual city -wall. It
was taken by the English somewhere about the year
1815, and the ruins of this outer wall even no^v bear
picturesque testimony to having been effectually
breached. A short distance beyond the outer wall w
a ruin, over which we have conjectured in vain. It
is cruciform, and built with double aisles formed of
two tiers of arches every way. Running along the
top of the highest tier is a hollow passage, resembling
the "nun's walk," or cleristery of our cathedrals.
The whole building is ecclesiastical in form and
appearance. But how has the ecclesiastical archi-
tecture of Europe found its way into Central India?
It stands alone thero are neither figures of gods
nor tombs near it. The roof has given way, and a
large tree grows on the top of the wall, from whence
the wide span of the centre arch originally sprung*
The walls, however, are massive and almost un-
injured,

General orders containing a complimentary order
respecting " the very brilliant feat of arms of Kota h,"
have been forwarded to the column. There u 9 how-
ever* no mention whatever made of the cavalry, nor of

HOPES OF SHELTER. 119

the valuable assistance they afforded to the escaping
rebels I

On the 1st June, Brigadier Smith having heard
nothing further from Captain Maclean and the Teary
Contingent, resolved to break up his camp before
Chandaree and march on Sepree, Cloudy days,
and several smart showers, gave warning that the
end of the fine weather was approaching, and two
large rivers still lay between us and the "haven
where we would be." General Roberts and the rest
of our division have been stationary long ago : and
we were willing to hope that only eight more
marches lay between us and the shelter we had so
long desired. Our native servants also took heart,
and arrived at Mahoulio, where we halted the first
day> more lively than they had been for some time.
We pitched by the side of a river, doop and. cool,
lying in the shadow of overhanging trees. A hive
of bees had swarmed in one of them ; and some of
the doolie wallahs (grasscutters), or other necessary
evils of the Indian camp, disturbed them. A scone
of tho utmost confusion, ensued, the enraged insects
attacking men and horses with tho greatest vigour.
Several persons, including throe or four officers of
the 8th Hussars, wore severely stung about the &ce,
neck, and hands. We were fortunately not in tie
direction taken by the bees, and could lattgk in
safety at the energy and speed with which the
victims sought to escape. The old hjw&ds, who had

120 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

been some time in India, and had profited by past
experience, ran their faces and shoulders into tlic
thickest bushes they could find, and so escaped
nnstung. The day after, we moved on to Esaghur,
a long and tiresome road, which for the first few
miles lay through a very narrow track in the hills,
where the camels could only pass in single file.
The baggage was, in consequence, so much delayed,
that it was after one o'clock before our tents made
their appearance, and I was indebted for breakfast
to the kindness of Sir John Hill.

Our march was on the ascent the whole way, and
at Esaghur we found ourselves on a firm hard soil,
with a fine breeze, and at a healthy elevation. On
the following morning, soon after we had reached
our camping ground at Koosnawier, a party
sent in from Colonel Owen, commanding the 1st
Lancers, brought intelligence from which it ap-
peared that the mutiny, far from being nearly
quelled, has assumed a worse aspect. The Gwalior
Contingent, which revolted last year, having been
joined by reinforcements under Tantia Topee, has
retaken Gwalior, a place of such strength and im-
portance as to be called the "Delhi of Central
India." Many of Scindia's troops have turned
against him, and he and his family have fled : and
- this, when we are within a few days of the rainy
season! Colonel Owen also stated that a lac and a
half of rupees had arrived at Kollariss for the use

THREATENED TREASURE. 121

of the brigade, but that the rebels were hovering so
thickly round that place and its small protecting
force., that he lived in dread of an attempt being
made to seize it by overpowering numbers; and
requested the Brigadier would rejoin him with all
speed. The prospect of the rupees was hailed with
joyful exclamations by everybody; as neither officers,
men, nor camp followers,, had for a month past been
paid more than was absolutely necessary to carry
them on. Out of shoes, out of money, out of pro-
visions, and getting more and more out of health, it
is high time that the column should go into can-
tonments.

122 CAMPAIGNING EXHEBIESCES.

CHAPTER IX.

"Sajs Giles: ' *Tis mortal bard to go,

But if so he's I must,
I means to follow arter he

As goes hisself the first."

TOM BROWN

ON the 5th June we reached Kollariss, and rejoined
the force of lancers and native infantry which had
heen detached to keep open the communications
along the Trunk Road. The ill news gathered
strength as we approached Sepree, from which wo
are now distant only fourteen miles. The head
man of this place is in great alarm. He urges the
Brigadier to hasten to Sepreo, which he tells us wo
shall probably find sacked and burned; and, at the
same time, declares most decidedly that he will not
he left behind. He says* <e I am not a soldier ; I
am a pundit, a scholar. Why should I risk my life
in the hands of these people, whom I absolutely
refuse to serve ? I have been brought up with the
English all my life, and have always been on their
side, I cannot now change." In point of fact, the
position of our column resembles very much that
of ^a ship at sea we pass through the rebels, and

REST AND CONTENTMENT. 123

they close up behind us after wo have passed. A
detachment of the 8th Hussars and H. M.'s 95th
is to be left at Kollariss to comfort the soul of the
Chief, and also to keep the road open and prevent
the d&k being stopped.

We started at midnight for Sepree, half expecting
to find the place in flames when we arrived. Every-
thing, however, was tranquil; a large fire lit the
horizon on our right hand, but we saw no signs
of the enemy. The Trunk Road was almost as
smooth and level as an English turnpike, so much
so, that once I was surprised into a canter. Large
trees pointed out the site of the town ; and when we
reached the cantonment we were all delighted with
the beauty of its situation, the handsome, although
ruinous bungalows, and the abundant shade. Our
camp was pitched on a shelving ground of hard
gravel, abounding with white ants. On the first
morning after we arrived wo found one of oar
carpet-bags nearly eaton through ; but the delicious
feeling that hero we were to sit down and rest, over-
balanced all discontent at minor evils- With what
feelings of thankfulness to ttiat good Providence who
had "brought us all the way hitherto" did we lie
down to sleep that night I Although, on inspection
the bungalows proved to be in such ruinous OOKL-
dition that it yras impossible to occupy them at cetw&e,
still the situation appeared more and more advan-
tageous, with its good wells, and plenty of them ;

124 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

its fine light soil, which would not be impassable
with, the heaviest rain, and its gardens with flower-
ing shrubs; so we spent three days in peace, and
rest, and self-illusion; but on the fourth day a
messenger arrived with three little screws of paper
hidden away in different parts of his clothing ; and
on each of these twisted scraps was an order to
proceed immediately to Gwalior. A despatch from
Sir Hugh Rose soon followed. He, with his division,
was marching on Gwalior from Calpee, and we were
ordered to join Colonels Orr and Hicks, who were
also marching thither, before attempting the Antree
Pass, which lay between us and Gwalior. After
all, we feel that we ,have become as accustomed
to marching as the eels to their traditionary fate,
and are glad of an opportunity of joining forces
under Sir Hugh Rose. The report, which had
reached us, of his having gone to Poonah, of course
turns out to be false ; but the local papers assert
that he has suffered very severely from the effects
of the sun, having been knocked off his horse by
it three times in one day.

On the 10th June, we marched to Suttawarra.
My husband had sprained his ancle on the road from
Kollariss to Sepree, and was plentifully leeched the
evening before; so he had to follow helplessly in
the gharry, which, by the time he reached Sutta-
warra, had nearly dislocated his bones. My u Pearl 1 *
has had his hoofs much broken, and I was thinking

A WOULD-BE ASSASSIN. 125

of taking his shoes off for a month; and "Prince"
is still an invalid, in the care of Captain Mayne, at
Goonali. We had fortunately been able to procure
from a native shopkeeper a small store of beer and
sherry ; and on the evening of the 8th, seven cart-
loads of stores came up for the mess from Mhow
before we left. On the day of our arrival, when
our men crowded down to the bazaar, a sepoy of the
7th Gwalior Contingent levelled his musket (an
English one) at a man of the 3rd Troop Horse
Artillery, and fired. Fortunately the cap snapped;
but I never shall forget the excitement with which
the men crowded round their prisoner, and brought
him to the Brigadier's tent. He was there recog-
nised by a trumpeter of the Lancers. He was a tall,
strong man, with a very bad expression of coun-
tenance; and I am told he met his death with
profound indifference, mounting the cart of his own
accord, and springing off it, when the noose was
round his neck.

Since the 10th of June, my pen has never been in
my hand. For several days and nights the noiso
and stir of the camp have been but as a confused and
troubled dream to me. I have been lying on my
bed unconscioua, or communing only with my own
heart It is sad to lie in pain and weakness amidst
such stirring scenes ; and to be so dependent, help-
less, and exhausted, as to feel that the sleep of death
would scarcely be sufficiently deep to afford relief.

126 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

How Tab is all human strength and courage, when
in a moment, and in the very midst of our self-
reliant pride, the will of God can cast us down and
leave us to be helplessly carried hither and thither at
the will of others. A few hours of illness suffice to
take away that power of pleasing which gives life
such a charm to its possessor. The face becomes
pale and wan no witticism spaxkles from the
parched lips no laughter kindles in the eyes that
are filled with ever ready tears. True heroism is
not to ride gallantly amid the braying of trumpets
and all the pomp and circumstance of war, but to
wrestle alone, in solitary fight, with darkness and the
shadow of death. Many a one may be brave before
his fellows, and ride at a gallop to the very cannon's
mouth, who would shrink from the sharp arrows of
pain, from the weary, lonely watching, and from all
the humiliation of soul and body that weakness and
illness entail.

From myself, my thoughts wandered to the great
ones of old, " who made themselves mountains
whereon to stand, and saw the storms of life not
above their heads, but rolling far beneath their feet,"
and I remembered that they, too, were of the dust,

"What was their prosperous estate,
When high, exalted, and elate,

With power and pride ?
What but a transient gleam of light,
A flame, which glaring in its height,

Grew dim and died.

WEAKNESS AND PAIN. 127

" The noble steed, the harness bright,
The gallant lord, and stalwart knight

In rich array,

"Where shall we seek them now ? Alas !
Like the bright dewdrops on the grass,
They fade away."

Individual suffering counts for nothing where the
movements of an army are concerned. The strong
fight through the weak lie down and die; and the
brigade marches on just the same. But, happily,
above all, watches the Almighty Power, without
whom nothing is strong, and without whose know-
ledge not a sparrow falls to the ground.

Through the kindness of the Brigadier, and of
Lieutenant-Colonel Blake, my dooley was allowed to
be carried near the head of the column. It was
many days before I was able to sit in my saddle;
and, on the first attempt, I fainted from sheer pain.

At Antree, we found Lieutenant-Colonel Hicks,
with details of the 71st, 86th, some Hydrabad Con-
tingent (cavalry), a couple of mortars, and some
eightecn-poundcr guns. We were then nine miles
from the place appointed for the Brigade to encamp
before Gwalior, in order to co-operate with Sir Hugh
Rose. Of course, we expected that the Antree Pass
would be defended; but we marched through it
without let or hindrance, I was half stifled with
dust in my dooloy, until we came to an open plain
with slight eminences on the left, backed by a high
range of hills. On the foremost of the lower emi-

128 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

nences, we saw a body of cavalry ; while the enciny
in numbers appeared and disappeared on the ridge*
of the more distant heights. Our force was halted,
and drawn up. Brigadier Smith, with a troop of
H. M.'s 8th Hussars, and Lieutenant Harris, of the
Horse Artillery, went off to reconnoitre. We saw
them the whole time going down at an easy gallop.
Pain was forgotten at such an exciting moment, and
I got out of my dooley and stood to watch. When
they approached the hill on which the cavalry was
drawn up, a battery, hitherto masked, opened upon
them, and, as they turned to gallop out of range, wo
saw one or two men and horses fall, and a dark spot
remain stationary. Just before the guns opened,
Lieutenant Harris was riding, unconsciously, of
course, straight at the battery, and it was extra-
ordinary that he was not hit The Brigadier's horse,
slightly wounded in the stifle, fell and rolled over
him, bruising his rider severely on the temple, and
spraining his wrist. He was not one to make the
most of a grievance, and it was not until his face and
hand were swelled and discoloured, that we found
out he had been hurt. As soon as the reconnoitring
party returned, Colonel Blake's troop of Horse Artil-
lery clattered down at a gallop ; a squadron of the
8th Hussars followed, as also part of the Laucer^
the 95th and the 18th N. I.

It proved that the enemy's cavalry was drawn up
behind a nullah, wide, deep, and full of water. To

A GALLANT CHARGE. 129

cross this the Horse Artillery had to change their
course, and to find a fordable place ; but into it,
without hesitation, rushed Major Chetwode, Lieu-
tenant and Adjutant Harding, weighing over fifteen
stone, and Sir John Hill, whose horse fell and rolled
over him. The rebels, after some smart firing on
both sides, galloped away to the heights, taking their
guns with them. It was said that they fired six-
pound shot out of nine-pound guns, which accounted
for the very long 'range at which their shot fell.
The 95th and 10th then commenced skirmishing up
the heights, under a heavy fire from an earthwork
battery.

A troop of Lancers and Hussars had been sent out
to scour the plain, and see that none of the rebel
cavalry were lurking about. These, returning at a
gallop in rear of where the baggage camels and
baggage guard were drawn up, caused a momentary
check to the proceedings in front, as it was reported
to the Brigadier that columns of dust were seen in
rear of the baggage, and that the enemy were about
to attack it.

About this time the wounded began dropping in,
and dooleys were seen in the distance, bearing their
freight of pain and blood to where the surgeons were
awaiting them. The first contained poor Berry, a
bandsman of tlio 8th Hussars, whose leg was so
fearfully shattered that immediate amputation at the
hip was considered necessary ; and was, I am told,

130 CAMPAIGKING EXPERIENCES.

most skilfully carried out by Dr. Lockwood, 8th
Hussars, tlie poor patient being under the influence
of chloroform. When first struck, he knew his
wound was mortal, and half an hour after the ope-
ration he had ceased to live. Then an artilleryman
came galloping wildly in, with bare head, and
with his shoulder and his horse's quarters splashed
with blood. Happily, however, his wound was
slight ; a shot had carried off his helmet and grazed
his head and ear. But more and more came in;
some wounded, some dying of sunstroke; and the
doctors have full employment. Another amputation
this time in the artillery hospital ; and still the 95th
and 10th are steadily skirmishing on, and the artil-
lery and cavalry have advanced until they are out
of our sight.

The voices of the guns (how eagerly listened to
by those who were detained by duty or sickness iu
the camp!) told us that our force must be gaining
ground, as they became less and less distinct.

Lieutenant Reilly, killed by sunstroke within a
few minutes after having ridden a dashing and eager
charge, was brought into hospital ; and later in the
day he, with poor Berry and two other men, one a
non-commissioned officer, was consigned to a hastily-
made grave, with as much care as circumstances
would allow.

About four o'clock came an order for the baggage
to move up three miles, and to halt on the very

A HARD DAY'S WOBK. 131

heights which in the morning had bristled with the
enemy. As soon as my dooley-wallahs had conveyed
me to the first height, I met Brigadier Smith, who
told me that they had ridden right through the
enemy's camp under the Fort ; and that if the troops
had not been completely exhausted (neither man
nor horse had broken fast since the previous even-
ing), and dropping out of their saddles from the
extreme heat, he would have routed the whole
outlying force, and held the suburbs of the city.

This brilliant day's work was achieved solely by
our tried and jaded column. Had Sir Hugh Eose
been able to afford them the slightest assistance had
he even sent out one European regiment they would
have destroyed the whole of the enemy's camp.
When we took up our position for the night, the
evening was drawing in, but not sufficiently to prevent
the enemy, who occupied the opposite heights, from
annoying us with their shot I could not help
laughing at the effects of the first one that came. It
hurt nobody, but pitched in the middle of a cluster
of camels and their drivers, causing the most direful
confusion and dismay. One fled one way, another
ran another. The dooley-wallahs seized thoir loads,
and ran for their lives. But when it became dark>
and the shot still came, it was not quite so amusing.
Everything was avoided that could attract the notice
of the enemy ; no tents were pitched, no fires were
lighted, and no fires entailed no dinners.

S

132 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

As I had taken nothing but a biscuit and a cup
of tea, kindly given to me by Lieutenant Mayne,
1st Lancers, at seven A.M., and another cup of tea
charitably sent me at four P.M. by an utter stranger,
Dr. Brodrick, I started in the dark in search of
something to eat; and meeting my husband and
Lieutenant Hanbury, both on the sick report, who
were on the same errand, we at last found the
messman, and secured two bottles of beer, as hot as
though it had been boiled, but still better than
nothing. After this I betook myself to the gharry,
and my husband to his dooley alongside. We then
slept until morning, when, as there was no firing on
the camp, and the sun was very hot, the tents were
pitched. There was not a blade of grass for horses
or bullock, but there was a little grain left, and we
hoped that they would, at any rate, got a day's
rest.

About eleven o'clock, as soon as the enemy saw
that we had made ourselves comfortable, down came
a shot close to our tent. Another and another fol-
lowed; then they fired from another gun at 'the
horses of the artillery, and afterwards at some carts
in a nullah close by. For two hours they kept
harassing us in this way, until at last an 18-pound
gun, with two elephants, was sent on to our advanced
height. I was not sorry when I heard his glorious
voice, for it was too bad to allow the enemy to
knock our camp about as they pleased. The trail

SHOT AND SHELL, 133

of the carriage, however, broke soon after our great
friend was brought into action ; and when he became
silent the rebels resumed their fire, killing several
horses, one in the midst of our picket, and wound-
ing the wife of an artillery ghora-wallah. Towards
evening we rode out to see what we could, and as
we were returning a shell burst so directly over our
heads that it was a wonder to myself as well as to
others who saw it, that neither my husband nor I
was hurt* Not long after, whilst I was superintend-
ing the packing of our camels, the load of one of
them was struck by a shot nearly spent. The
animal spun round and round two or three times,
and then fell down, but was unhurt.

About ten o'clock the next morning Sir Hugh
Rose's force made its appearance, and an order was
given to shift the camp round the spur of the hill,
where it would be safe from shot. The thermometer
all this time ranged at 114 P , In less than half au
hour after we had moved our tent the shot came
whistling over and about it, and all hands had to
be again mustered to unpltch. Finding that quiet
and comfort were out of the question, we mounted
our horses, my husband with great difficulty, for
his foot was enormously swelled and very painful,
and rode across the heights to soo what the move-
ment in Sir 'Hugh's camp signified, little thinking
that we were to be the spectators of a battle. All
the artillery and heavy guns were moving out of

134 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

camp, also the cavalry, and plenty of infantry.
Our brigade was nearly all out, and we presently
saw tie 86th and 95th ascending the hill in skir-
mishing order to take revenge upon our enemies
for the mischief done by their guns. We joyfully
watched them ascending, for we knew that if
Europeans cannot stand against our infantry, no
native Indians would entertain the notion for a
moment. The Horse Artillery and cavalry were
now slowly and steadily advancing towards the
large, level plain in front of the stern fort of
Gwalior, which rises on a rock, abruptly, some-
thing after the manner of Stirling Castle. Sir Hugh
Rose was very unwilling at first to bring on a gene-
ral action, but soon saw that unless he drove the
enemy forward they would steal round the hills,
and fall upon our rear. The infantry gained the
heights, routed the rebels, took their guns, turned
them on the flying foe, and under their cover, the
cavalry got quickly into the plain. Here we fol-
lowed them, in time to see the 8th Hussars, at least
one squadron of them, led by Captain Heneage and
Captain Poore, fully atoning for their forced inac-
tivity at Kotak The rebels were driven quite to
the other end of the plain, amongst some trees j
the artillery then rattled in, and gave them mich
sharp practice, in spite of the grape and shrapnel
they sent in return, that they were soon glad to
leave. Presently, away they went, hundreds of

VICTOKY AND PURSUIT. 135

horsemen, racing as though they were after a fox,
and closely followed by the 14th Light Dragoons
and 8th Hussars. In the battery from which I
was watching there were two 18-pounders, one of
which was quickly swung round, and opened on the
flying mass. Unhappily its range was too short.
Away they sped, and soon dense clouds of dust hid
from our eyes the last traces of that discomfited
host. It then became necessary to scour the plains,
lest any should be found lurking in houses or under
topes of trees. The impulse to accompany the
cavalry and artillery was irresistible ; and I never,
never shall forget the throbbing excitement of that
short gallop, when the horse beneath one, raging in
his fierce strength, and mad with excitement, scarcely
touched the ground. We halted beyond the enemy's
cantonment, and underneath the grim walls of the
fort Of course we expected some remonstrative
guns to open on us, or some notice to be taken of
this very forward movement; but all was silent
and still. We could not account for this inaction
on the part of the gunners in the fort.

It was now growing dusk ; and as nothing more
could bo done, my husband and I turned our horses'
heads back to the camp, promising to send out a camel
laden with provisions for the officers, and another
for the men, as neither had broken fast since breaky
fast, and there was no prospect of their doing so
within any definite time. Wo learned afterwards

136 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

that several of the mutineers, who were unable to get
away with the main rush, had hidden themselves
in the village, or rather cantonment, through which
we passed, but they did not fire upon us, dreading,
perhaps, the consequences of attracting notice. It
was just by these cantonments that Sergeant Lynch,
paymaster clerk, 8th Hussars, was shot during the
action of the 17th. Of course, holding the appoint-
ment he did, he had no business to have gone into
action; but it must be difficult for any soldier who
is worthy of the name to keep himself back in the
day of battle: at any rate, there they all were,
orderly-room clerk, schoolmaster sergeant, and pay-
master clerk; of these volunteers one was killed,
and a second wounded, in endeavouring to save
the life of his comrade. The bodies of several of
our non-commissioned officers and men who had
fallen the day before were found in the can-
tonments mutilated. One was lying near some
burnt haystacks, half roasted away ; Sergeant Lynch
was beheaded ; and three others were discovered in
the Lushkar, also with their heads cut oft*, and
hanging up by their heels. Our infantry on the
evening of that triumphant day penetrated into the
town of Gwalior, and in several cases wore met
by the servants of the Maharajah, bringing thorn
champagne and beer a most grateful draught for
the parched throats of those stalwart, grim, and
dusty men.

FLIGHT OF THE REBELS. 137

On our return I found myself terribly exhausted
and in great suffering, for I could not sit in my
saddle, unless under circiimstances of strong excite-
ment, without tears being forced from my eyes by
sheer pain. When the reveillee sounded f at four on
the following morning, we became aware of the deep
and stifling dust, which seemed more than human
philosophy could endure. My charpoy, hair, and
eyes, as well as the breakfast that we managed to
secure before starting, were merely a compound of
dust. The water in 'the bath it was impossible to
use not only was it the colour of bitter beer, but
the dust floated in a scum upon the top. So I crept
on to the back of my pretty little horse, sobered
after his work and scanty food of the previous day,
and, with my husband and Lieutenant Haubury,
both invalids like mysolf, moved after tho force,
which had been ordered to encamp by the side of
the fort, and in front of the town of Gwalior. On
asking what had occurred, I was told that about two
hours after we had left the division of Horse Artil-
lery, they were ordered back to camp. The rebels
had fled; but although the soldiers were gone, the
guns of tho fort kept on firing at irregular and dis-
tant intervals during the night. In the morning
when the troops went in to garrison the place, they
discovered some eleven or twelve fanatics, only two
of whom knew how to fire a cannon. They were
very soon despatched by the infantry, having proved

138 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

that, like the sis hundred Marseillaise immortalized
by Carlyle, they "knew how to die." The two men
had spent the night in going round to the various
guns, all of which were loaded, and appending slow
matches to them, so that, of course, when the match
burned down they exploded. We reached the fort in
time to see the greater part of the procession, con-
sisting of Scindia, his family, and retainers, who,
escorted by a guard of honour, composed of 8th
Hussars and 14th Light Dragoons, returned in state
to occupy the palace, from which he had fled some
weeks previously, and to resume the government.
Sir Hugh Eose, the brigadiers, and their respective
staffs in full dress, accompanied the Maharajah on
his entry. He dismounted, entered his palace, and
ascended to the durbar, leaning on the arm of Sir
Hugh. Various ceremonials, more tedious than in-
teresting, were gone through. Betel-nut and rose-
water were handed round, the whole assembly was
crowned with garlands of flowers, proclamations
were made, and Scindia was reseated on his throne
in the presence of all the chief men of Gwalior.

Our first care, on shifting ground, was for the
poor sick; their numbers had increased terribly
during the fatigue and exposure of the last three
days. In the Hussar Hospital alone, for one wing
of the regiment, there were thirty-six patients, all
suffering more or less from prostration of strength.
For them there was no remedy, but absolute quiet

OVERFLOWING HOSPITAL. 139

and perfect rest. The total of the 95th Regiment
then in hospital was eighty-five men, and the only
two medical officers, at that time attached to them>
were also sick. It was afterwards found necessary
to augment the medical staff for this regiment to a
principal medical officer and three assistant-surgeons.
None, but those who have gone through it, can tell
the effects of a hot-weather campaign upon the ner-
vous system. The constitution becomes completely
shattered and broken up. Our own sick (8th Hus-
sars) were placed in some handsome buildings, sur-
rounded by a large garden, a little to the left of the
camp ; and Dr. Lockwood, whose skill and kindness
of heart made him of great value, took up his
residence in a temple, within the same green and
pleasant enclosure. The centre building in this
extensive garden was left unoccupied, as it had
evidently been resorted to by the wounded rebels
during the three previous days, the walls and floor
being splashed, and, in some places, covered with
blood. After all, I do not imagine that the slaughter
on the 17th and 1 9th June was very great We saw a
good many bodies lying about in different directions,
some of them bearing marks of frightful sword-cut
wounds, but none of the masses that we remember in
the foughten fields of the Crimea.

The next morning, four-and-twenty b&urs after
the evacuation of Grwalior by Tantia Topee and his
followers, the Agra Brigade, under command of

140 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

Brigadier General Napier, started in pursuit ; they
were reinforced by a squadron of the 8th Hussars,
and Sir Hugh Rose followed with a part of his
division. Very heavy firing was heard by us in
camp, from about nine A.H. till noon. We could tell
that some severe engagement was going on, and later
in the day the information was brought that the
rebels had made a stand at an entrenched camp
about twelve miles from Gwalior. A division of
the 3rd Troop Horse Artillery, under command of
Lieutenant Le Cocq, with a troop of 8th Hussars,
went out later in the day to reinforce.

The bodies of several sepoys and horses lying
about in the vicinity of our camp soon made it
advisable that we should change our ground.
Before doing so my husband and I had the pleasure
of dining with Sir Hugh Rose, whom we had not
had an opportunity of meeting since we came into
tliis country, and it was pleasant to renew an agree-
able acquaintance commenced in the Crimea. lie
shows that the Indian sun is no respecter of persons,
for he looks worn out with this deadly climate.

The Brigadier and Staff, including iny husband,
took possession of three bungalows which had served
as habitations for the native officers of the Con-
tingent. They were situated in front of the canton-
ments through which the cavalry and artillery passed
on the evening of the 19th, after the rebels had fled.
They were built of mud, plastered, and very thickly

ANOTHER VICTORY. 140

thatched or chuppered, and consisted of a small dark
room in the centre and a verandah open on each
side. The strong breeze, herald of the monsoon,
began to blow on the morning after we had esta-
blished ourselves in these residences, and however
much reason we had to rejoice in the thick roof
over our heads, we soon found that the whirlwinds
of dust which came sweeping and swirling through
the building, without any intermission day or night,
superadded to the intolerable heat a nuisance still
more insufferable. This, together with a matter
that was causing me considerable worry and annoy-
ance, made our residence in the native officer's hut
at Gwalior painful beyond words. However, time
and the hour wear through the longest day, and we
soon changed our camp, although perhaps not much
for the better. Whilst the arrangements for shifting
quarters were in progress our squadron came in,
bringing with it the welcome news that not only
had they overtaken the fugitives as before recorded,
but they had taken from them five-and-twenty guns,
besides inflicting heavy loss. These, with the guns
taken in Gwalior and its neighbourhood, amount to
sixty in all. The loss on our side has been totally
inadequate to the work done. The 8th Hussars lost
one officer (from sunstroke), Lieutenant Reilly, aod
seven non-commissioned officers and men. The 3rd
troop of Horse Artillery had one man killed, and I
believe, tliree wounded, and the loss of H. M.'s

142 CAMPAIGNING EXPEBIENCES.

9 6 tli was proportionately slight. Tlie Bombay
Lancers sustained a loss in a favourite young officer,
Lieutenant Mills, shot through the body. The sun
fought against us, and proved nearly as formidable
as the guns of the enemy.

On the 24th of June we shifted camp about two
miles. Grwahor and Agra are considered the two
hottest places in Central India, and the ground to
which we removed, barren, sandy, and surrounded
by hills, afforded no advantages in the way of cool-
ness. The rains, too, it was evident from the appear-
ance of the sky, would not keep off much longer, and
Brigadier Smith was anxious to start on his march
to Sepree before they rendered his doing so next to
impracticable. Delay, however, intervened, and on
the 25th of June the thunder began to peal, and
down came the rain. We were new to a tropical
climate, and I shall not easily forget the first day of
the Indian rains ; all the morning the heat had been
intense, the sky glittering and bright, and the birds
gasping with open beaks. Rapidly the sky became
overcast; and almost without further warning, in a
moment, came down such a pour of rain that I can
only compare it to a waterspout. The plain, which
a, quarter of an hour before had made us miserable
with clouds of dust, was now a pool of muddy water*
which in half an hour reached the knees of those
who were adventurous enough to walk about. The
horses at their pickets were standing in a pond ; the

GREEN FROGS AND WHITE ANTS. 143

deep dry nullahs were transformed into rushing
rivers ; the 95th, who had established their cooking
places in one of them, had not only their dinners but
their cooking vessels carried away. A piece of un-
dulating ground in front of the Horse Artillery lines
became so full of water that the men began to bathe,
and a bheestie's bullock had to swim across. Enor-
mous green frogs suddenly appeared, and in such
numbers that their croaking kept me awake the
greater part of the night. But the most severe annoy-
ances connected with this deluge were the winged
ants, which appeared as soon as the lamps were
lighted on the first evening of the rains; the light
had no sooner been brought than it was obscured and
nearly extinguished by these insects, which came
in whole hordes at once. At first, dinner and the
ants seemed incompatible; but an officer who had
served for some years in India suggested the removal
of the lamp to the farthest corner of the tent, where
it was placed upon the floor ; the ants, following the
light, clustered and buzzed round it, leaving us to eat
in darkness certainly but in peace. The next day
there was a renewal of the heavy rain, after
which the sky cleared, and no more fell for a
fortnight.

Sir Hugh Kose's despatch, forwarded as early as
possible after the evacuation of the city, appeared in
some of the local papers. It was written for the
telegraph, and was necessarily concise;

144 CAMPAIGNING EXPEBIENCES.

"Gwalior" (so it ran) "taken, after a general
action of five hours and a half."

The Ranee of Jhansi killed."

Now as this message was worded, the whole of the
fighting on the 17th was ignored. Although there
can "be no doubt that the easy afternoon's raid on the
19th was attributable to the lesson taught the rebels
by Brigadier Smith's force on the 17th. They were
also concentrated by being driven in from the heights,
and so became an easier prey when attacked by
Sir Hugh Rose, in conjunction Trith Smith's brigade,
on the 19th.

Two messengers had been despatched to Sir Hugh
Rose on the 17th, during the action, but no assistance
was sent ; and we heard afterwards that the division
could not account for the heavy firing which they
heard, but concluded it was the mutineers quarrelling
amongst themselves!

With regard to the Ranee of Jhansi, nothing is
known with certainty, except that she was killed.
Various stories got afloat ; amongst others, that she
was run through the body by a private of the 8th
Hussars, who, as she was dressed as a man in a
white turban and crimson tunic and trowsers, had no
idea that his sword was pointed at the breast of a
woman. Another story had it that she died, not
from a sword-thrust, but from two shot wounds.
Sir Hugh Rose told me, that although mortally
wounded she was not actually killed on the field,

AN INDIA HEROINE. 145

but was carried off the ground, and ordered a funeral
pile to be built, which she ascended and fired with
her own hand while almost in the act of dying ; an.
instance of fierce and desperate courage that I can
only listen to with wonder. At all events* on the
17th of June her restless and intriguing spirit passed
away: a subject of regret perhaps to those who
admired her energy and courage, but of congratula-
tion to all who are concerned in endeavouring to
settle the intricate and disturbed affairs of this un-
happy country.

146 CAMPAIGNING EXPEDIENCES.

CHAPTEE X.

" The fated hour is come the hour whose voice
Pealing into the arch of night must strike
These palaces with ominous totterings,
And rock their marbles to the corner-stone."

BYBON.

WHILE we were In camp "before Gwalior news
reached us that the eyes of another of England's
best and bravest had closed in death. Sir William
Peel, the Bayard of our modern chivalry, who
risked his life so freely in the hatteries before Sebas-
topol, and had so many hairbreadth escapes, that he
used to say, " the bullet was not cast which was to
kill him ; " after distinguishing himself as nobly in
India, has fallen a victim to smallpox.

Although we had changed our ground, the purer
air brought no alleviation of my husband's suffering ;
nor did it raise me from the mental and physical
prostration which overwhelmed me. The kindness
of the Brigadier induced him to think the situation
of our tent not sufficiently healthy, so he procured
for us an introduction to Major Macpherson, the
political agent at Gwalior, who, with that princely

SCINDIA'S PALACE. 147

hospitality which, is, I suppose, only to "be met with
In India, immediately placed a suite of rooms at our
disposal in the part of the Maharajah's palace in
which he resided.

The Maharajah's palace^ when I first saw it, sug-
gested two ideas : the first was an Italian palazzo ;
the second, a feudal castle. Its graceful arches^
pillars, and flat-roofed verandahs, rise round three
sides of a large square: Windows It has none, the
interior heing screened from the sun Tby crimson
satin purdahs trimmed with gold. Large tatties of
camel thorn fill some of the spaces "between the
pillars, and as they are kept constantly wetted by
men employed solely to dash water against them, they
cause the hot air which passes through them to be-
come of a refreshing coolness. Natives in white robes,
with turbans of crimson or green, flitted through,
the inner archways or sat upon the flat roofs of the
verandahs ; while in the square or yard of the palace
eighty horses were picketed, and the armed retainers
waited, ready at a moment's call. Separated by a
small garden from the principal building is another
palace, set apart for the occupation of the Political
Resident, since the frightful mutiny of 1857 de-
stroyed his house and every vestige of his property*

The history of Gwalior, from May 1857 to June
1858, has been eventful enough. In the month of
April of the former year the Maharajah and his
ministry had reason to fear that an outbreak was

I 2

148 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES-

likely to occur , and, in consequence, Major Macpher-
son caused all the women and children to be with-
drawn from the cantonments, and placed in his apart-
ments in the palace; an arrangement which, as the
officers of the contingent steadily refused to believe
in the approach of danger, was received 011 the part
of the ladies 'with many complaints and much dis-
content. The cloud having apparently passed over,
the ladies were let out of durance. The large can-
tonment, which was inhabited by the English officers
of the Grwalior Contingent, with their wives and
families, extended over miles of ground on either
side of the city. There they lived without doubt
or suspicion, in the enjoyment of every luxury, and
in all the listless indolence that Indian life engenders.
To the last moment they would listen to no voice
warning them of the disaffection of the troops* Day
by day passed on, and as the news of other regi-
ments having mutinied readied them, they continued
to assert that " they would trust their men as them-
selves," Suddenly, even as the flood came in the
days of Noah, the hurricane of insurrection burst
above their heads. So unexpectedly, indeed, did it
come, and so heedless were they, that even when
a messenger arrived as they were sitting down to
the mess dinner, to tell them that the soldiers were
loading the guns, an officer, who went out to sco,
returned laughing, and treated the whole affair as
a jest. Fatal supineness ! In less than an hour

THE MASSACRE AT GWALIOE. 149

some of them had already atoned for their "blind-
ness by death. One or two officers who rushed
out at the first booming of the guns never returned
again. A lady, watching from a window for her
husband, saw a young lad, whom she knew, fall
pierced by a ball. With that impulsive courage
which some few women possess, and which lifts
them above heroism, she rushed to the succour of
the wounded youth. Her little child, ignorant of
danger, toddled after her, and soon child and mother
and the friend she tried to succour, lay in a lifeless
heap together :

" There did not 'scape tlie glaive
Man that frowned, or babe that smiled."

Meantime, by the light of the blazing bungalows,
the survivors, leaving nineteen of their number
beyond the reach of fear and suffering, hastened
away towards Agra, some on horseback, some in
carts, some in carriages, some afoot* One party
of ladies was taken away by some of the friendly
natives, hidden in a hovel, and sent on afterwards
in a country cart, concealed beneath the goods which
it contained. But how can I, who, thank God, have
never seen it, hope to convey an idea of these scenes
of murder of tho blazing bungalows and the utter
destruction of property of the wild flight the terror
the despair and the utter desolation of many a,
broken heart.
Well-built and handsome houses, noble palaces,

150 CAMPAIGNING EXPEBEENCES.

and lovely gardens, were by the next morning involved
in a common wreck. The town itself received no
damage. In the long white street, with its irre-
gular houses, ornamented with screens of fretted
stone, so elaborate as to resemble perforated card-
board, but spoiled and disguised -with abominable
whitewash, not a stone was broken or defaced.
The admirable roadway, constructed by the Maha-
rajah, remained entire; and the bridge of minarets,
and mosque of many domes, preserved their solid
and beautiful proportions.

The destruction of the Residency entailed great,
loss of property upon our hospitable host ; a mis-
fortune which was nearly being repeated when, in
1858, Gwalior again fell under the power of the
rebels, and Scindia was obliged to fly. As soon as
the Maharajah had withdrawn, the work of plunder-
ing the town began systematically and in earnest.
Scindia, who had spent large sums in English and
French furniture during a recent visit to Calcutta,
returned on the 20th June to find it broken to
atoms. Fortunately for Major Macpherson, the part
of the palace appropriated to him had been occupied
by Tantia Topee, and was in consequence preserved
from injury, so that the large and massive mirrors,
with their frames of crimson and gold, ornamented
with gilt lions and horses, the sofas, massive anu-
chairs, carpets, chandeliers, and exquisite French
lamps, as well as the numerous pictures which

THE STATE ELEPHANTS. 151

decorated the walls, remain in their pristine
glory.

Now that my energies are dormant and my body
weary, I feel as if I could easily accommodate my-
self to the life of an eastern princess. The cool
and lofty rooms, made as dark as possible, the
pnnkahs and cuscuss tatties, and, above all, the
wide paved courtyard, which affords abundant space
for exercise, seem to me most delightful. I sit lean-
ing against the high carved parapet, in which are
open spaces like windows, and ensconced in one of
these like a picture in a frame, I look down at
my ease upon the gay and idle crowd, which pre-
sents numberless objects to attract and amuse a
European; that is, so long as lie can overlook it
without mixing in it. As I watched there one day,
I saw the Prime Minister (of whom more anon) on
liis way to pay a visit of state to Sir Robert Hamil-
ton, the Governor of Central India, who had just
arrived at anotiber of the Maharajah's palaces, about
a mile out of the town, called the Phool Bagh, or
Garden of Flowers. The procession was headed by
seven elephants. The first of these "huge earth-
shaking beasts" was of unusual size, his housings
consisting of a head-piece of crimson velvet, thickly
embroidered with raassivc gold, and edged with oUep
gold bullion fringe* Two small saddles of black
velvet, very like regimental saddles, were on his
back, and kept in their places by a crupper, oma-

152 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

mented with large round bosses of silver, each as
large and heavy as a small shield. A sonorous bell
hung on either side to give notice of his approach;
an enormous cloth of green velvet covered him
from head to tail ; while round his vast neck and
ample throat were six or seven silver chains or neck-
laces, each big enough to hold a good sized boat
to its moorings. His huge unshapely fetlocks were
adorned with bracelets and anklets, which tinkled
as he walked. In his wake followed six other ele-
phants, all differently caparisoned, but none of them
so gorgeous as the first. After these came the led
horses the priceless horses of Cattawar. These
animals, in accordance with the ideas of Indian
state, are fattened upon sugar, sheeps 5 heads, spices,
and all sorts of food, to such excess as to be inca-
pable of any quicker pace than an ambling, shuffling
walk, while their martingales of crimson silk, and the
severe bit, make them arch their necks like a bended
bow. After they had passed, accompanied by a
horde of foot-people, some wealthy man, a diamond
merchant perhaps, followed in a richly decorated
palanquin, escorted by a train of attendants on foot
Native cavalry soldiers, appointed to patrol the
town, clattered down the street at a canter, regard-
less of the dogs' toes, or the horns of the sacred
buffaloes which are always wandering about an Indian
town, secure alike from blows or butcher; and in
many cases a great nuisance, as they never trouble

THE DURBAR HALL. 153

themselves to get out of the way of passers-by.
Merchants selling their wares, beggars screaming
for alms, pariah dogs, idle soldiers, and ugly women,
completed the show.

On the second morning of my residence in the
palace I received a notification from the Maharanee,
that she wished to have an interview with me on the
following day at six A.M. I was the more pleased
with the expression of this wish as the Bhae-si-bhae,
widow of a former Maharajah, and a woman of very
great Indian celebrity, was one of the visitors at the
court. The Maharajah ordered an interpretress to
be in attendance, and escorted by Major Macpherson,
I presented myself at the durbar at the time ap-
pointed. After passing the Maharajah's private
chapel, and ascending a broad stairway, we came to
an upper gallery, branching off into numerous
passages, only wide enough to admit of one person
passing at a time; they were so constructed for
purposes of defence. These finally led us to the
durbar hall, one end of which was screened off by
a crimson satin purdah, into which were inserted
perforated silver plates, which serve to aiford the
ladies a view of everything passing in the durbar
while they themselves remain concealed. Behind
this curtain was the reception room of the Maha-
ranee. We arrived early, and after waiting about
five minutes were admitted into the presence of the
Maharanee, who with three other ladies rose from

154 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

their chairs on our entrance. My interpretress
salaamed profoundly and made offerings of gold
pieces, but the ladies extended their hands to me.
The Bhae-si-bhae sat in the place of honour next
the purdah, and arrested my attention at once, both
by the simplicity of her toilette and the great dignity
and self-possession of her deportment. The lustre
of her still glorious eyes reminded me of the light
which shines through port wine when held against
the light. She is over seventy years of age, but
apparentlyas energetic as in the days of her fiery and
intriguing youth, As little is known of this remark-
able woman at home, I subjoin a brief sketch of her
history :

" In 1779, when young Scindia had laid Holkar
at his feet, and was keeping the country round
Poona in alarm, arrangements were made for his
marriage with the beauty of the Dcccan, daughter of
SLirazee Eao Ghatgay, an important Maliratta Chief
at the Court of the Peishwa. The Maharajah's
proposals were accepted on condition that the bride's
father was to be made Prune Minister. The royal
couple lived happily together. A considerable
family was born to them, of whom two daughters
grew up to womanhood. In 1821 their favourite
daughter died, and her mother was so disconsolate
that she and her husband sought for some consider-
able time the seclusion of the country. Throughout,
the Bhae-si-bhae has been a woman of great activity

THE BHAE-SI-BEAJE. 155

and enterprise, exercising almost unbounded in-
fluence over her husband and the ministers of the
Court. She was in the habit of going out on horse-
back with her ladies, delighting in the chase, and
amusing herself with the javelin exercise. In March,
1827, Dowlat Rao Scindia died at Gwalior, and
leaving no male issue, his widow was permitted to
exercise the right of adoption. He had often been
urged before his death to adopt an heir, but always
postponed doing so, saying he wished that his widow
should hold the reins of government.

ec Several months after the widow adopted Moodk
Rao. He soon showed symptoms of turbulence and
cruelty. He naturally expected to be raised to the
throne on attaining the proper age, but the Bhae-si-
bhae was in no hurry to resign her authority. He
attempted to enlist the Governor-General, Lord W.
Bcntinck, and the Resident on his side, by spreading
a report that the regent had attempted to take his
life by means of poison. In July, 1834, a revolt
took place at Gwalior. One half of the army joined
the Bhae-si-bhae, and the other remained faithful to
the Maharajah, who had the great majority of
popular sympathy on his side. The regent then
consented to the instalment of the Maharajah, and
leaving the capital took up her residence at DitoZ-
pore, accompanied by 6,000 armed men. Military
tumtdts Mowed, and the Bhae-si-bhae was strongly
suspected of intriguing for the recovery of the throne.

156 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES*

She was, therefore, forbidden the capital, and placed
in strict sequestration. Shortly after she went to
Futtyghur, where she established herself in an indigo
factory, her followers being hutted round her. Some
months after she was assigned a residence in the
Deccan, afterwards altered to Malwa, with an income
of six lakhs of rupees annually (60,OOOZ.) Her
worthless adopted son died in 1843, when another
revolution occurred, and the country was finally
taken under our closer supervision. The widow of
the late chief (Moodk Rao) then adopted the present
representative of the house of Scindia, and with his
family the Bhae-si-bhae seems to have been staying
when the Calpee rebels seized the place on the 1st of
June, 1858."

The Maharanee, about eighteen years old, and
dressed in black and gold, with sumptuous orna-
ments, was chiefly interesting on account of her little
child, a girl of three years old, laden with pearl orna-
ments. She herself was almost entirely silent, and the
widow of the late Maharajah, whose adopted son now
reigns, was equally so ; but the old lady and myself
kindled into conversation at once, as flint and steel
emit fire*

" Was I the Englishwoman who had gone with
the armies to make war upon the Ruski ? " " She
thought I was a much older person." " Could I ride
on horseback?" "Had I seen a European battle
between the English and the Ruski?" "Ay, 53 she

INDIAN PRESENTS. 157

said, her dark eyes dilating as she spoke, " I, too,
have ridden at a battle : I rode when Wellesley Saib
drove us from the field, with nothing but the saddles
on which we sat."

She made me describe all I saw of the fight on the
19th of June, and asked to see my horses. Then
suddenly telling me to take off my bracelets, she,
scarcely looking at them, passed them on to the other
ladies, and recommenced her conversation with ine.
She showed herself justly proud of the beautiful
palace and town wherein she had lived and reigned
so long. Presently women appeared, bearing trays
of costly shawls. " These are presents," whispered
Mrs. Filose, my interpretress, and in the innocence
of my heart, unaccustomed to the polite fictions of
Eastern Courts, I fancied that the costly shawl of
crimson and gold was destined for my future wear.
How gorgeous it would have looked over a white
moire antique I My surprise was great at being
told merely to take the tray in my hand and pass it
on to a woman who stood in waiting behind my
chair. Seven times was I thus tantalized, but as
the last tray approached, the Bhae-si-bhae, taking a
piece of fine white Chandaree cambric, gave into my
hands, bidding mo "keep it" Numerous offerings of
fruit, betel-nut, rose-water, sweetmeats, &c*, Mowed;
when my interpretress salaamed, the ladies shook
hands with me, and we withdrew* The numbers of
women in attendance made the air hot and close. We

158 CAMPAIGNING EXPEDIENCES.

returned to the apartments of the Resident through
the lines of horses picketed in the court-yard.

Soon after I had reached my room, I received a
note saying that the Maharajah had signified his in-
tention of paying me a visit and would present
himself in half an hour. Punctual to his appoint-
ment lie came, attended by the Prime Minister and
one or two officers of State. The Maharajah cannot
be more than thirty years of age : his face is swarthy
and dark, with keen, but sensual eyes ; and a mouth
expressing intractability and self-will Nevertheless,
he is a goodrlooking man, dressed in exquisite and
most simple taste, and with elaborate care. He was
not conversational. He has a slight impediment in
his speech, and is shy of speaking before strangers*
He was good enough to inquire after my husband's
arm, which he carried in a sling, and to say a- few
grateful and gracious words about the army which
had restored him to his kingdom. He expressed
great astonishment that a lady should be found (he
was good enough to say) of sufficient enterprise and
courage to accompany an army in the field, and said
he had submitted to the Governor -General and
Supreme Council a design for a decoration, which
he intended to confer on our troops, and that when
It was accepted, he should have much pleasure in
conferring upon me a distinction so fairly won.
These words raised in me a world of busy thoughts,
To have had the Crimean medal almost in my grasp,

THE PHOOL BAGH. 159

and not to have possessed it after all, had been a dis-
appointment the keenness and bitterness of which
can be suspected only by a few. It is useless now to
dwell upon that mortification. If the troops are per-
mitted to wear the Maharajah's decoration, and I
should receive it, it will at least prove to me that the
Indian Prince knows how to appreciate and how to
reward a woman's fortitude.

I have seldom seen a man of greater intelligence
and refinement of manners, or one who impressed
me so favourably as did the Prime Minister of
Gwalior. There was that in his serene, half sad*
yet intellectual countenance, which would have made
a noble study for Fra Angelica. The face was as-
spiritual as those of his confreres were sensual and
earthly.

The morning after these visits, Major Macpherson
changed his residence from the Palace, in the Lush-
kar, to the Phool Bagh, in order to be near Sir
Robert Hamilton. Here we had purer air 3 and a
fresh breeze blowing across an open plain through
long, wide corridors, shaded by crimson satin purdahs,
and cooled by camel-thorn, tatties. This residence is
more princely than the town palace; it has such
wealth of space, with handsome lofty rooms, pillars,
fountains, terraces, and gardens of flowers. During
the affceraoon the Maharajah hearing of my love for
horses, with great consideration, sent down his state
horses, fully caparisoned for me to see* The one

160 CAMPAIGNING EXPEBIENCES.

whicli he rides on grand occasions is a magnificent
specimen of the Cattawar breed, but so overloaded
with flesh as to appear almost incapable of motion.
He is a deep sorrel chesnut, with two white legs;
his trappings were magnificent. On his head was a
tall plume of white cock's feathers, fastened into
a jewelled head-stall. The saddle-cloth was of green
velvet, bound with silver lace. He had a crimson
velvet crupper, to which were fastened long pendent
draperies falling on either side, and flowing, much as
a habit-skirt would do ; these, with a martingale of
crimson silk, tied as tightly as possible to the nose-
band and saddle-girths, completed his gorgeous cos-
tume. The bit is one of the most intensely severe I
ever saw, consisting of a string of spurs, or sharp
spikes of iron, the slightest pressure on which draws
blood. This instrument of torture in his mouth, and
the confined position of his head, made the whole
action of the animal false ; and compelled me to pity
as much as I admired him. Presently our atten-
tion was attracted by the sound of a horse approach-
ing from the further end of the terrace, but hidden
by trees. In a few moments appeared, in all her
self-possessed and calm magnificence, a faultless
thoroughbred English mare. What a relief it was
for the eye to rest and gaze upon the long lean
head, the delicate, nervous neck, the deep, sloping,
and powerful shoulders, the wide, muscular arms.
To measure the distance from hip to hock, and to

THE RAJAH'S STUD. 161

see the genuine English quarters, which beat every
Arab in the world for speed. Several other beauti-
ful horses were passed in review ; amongst them, the
finest and purest bred Arab I had ever seen. How
short and sturdy he looted, compared with the length
and grace of the English mare ; and yet, if not con-
trasted with her, what a noble fellow he was. I
could not but look at the mare shaking the -sun-
light from her golden chesnut sides, and feel that
she spoke to me of home, and that I loved her better
than all the Eastern horses, "the Children of the,
Sun." That evening we drove to Morah, to see
the cantonment which had been laid waste in 1857.
It was now occupied by Sir Hugh Rose's camp ; but
the broken walls and smoky ruins stood like spec-
tres among the gay white tents, and told their solemn
story in voices without words.

At two o'clock on the following morning, the moon
was lighting us on the first of our five marches to
Sepree, where we once more hoped to be allowed to
remain during the rainy season, and to obtain that
rest of which the whole Brigade, both men and
horses, stood so greatly in need. In consequence of
H. M.'s 95th Regiment being pronounced out of
shoes, and in too sickly a state to march, we ett
it behind, and it was attached to Brigadier Napier's
brigade. About this time the 8th received some
small portion of their mess stores which had been
despatched from Deesn on camels, under escort of

M

162 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

the 71st Kegiinent. That regiment, being short of
camels, had pressed some of those which it had
undertaken to escort; and the loads of the animals
thus taken had been consigned to the soldiers, who
had emptied twenty-four bottles out of one three-
dozen case of brandy,, besides drinking part of the
contents of several others. With a consignment of
wine at Carobay, regimental stores at ISTusseerabad,
and others somewhere between Bombay and Mhow,
we are in want of everything. We heard of our
.carts being pressed, and of our bullocks being looted
on the road; but when the rains began, and the
black cotton soil became impassable, the remains of
our stores had not arrived.

163

CHAPTER XL

" Down comes a deluge of sonorous hail,
And prone descending ram."

THOMSON.

ON the morning of Thursday, the 8th of July,
Brigadier Smith's column marched into Sepree.
This was the second time we had entered Sepree
with the idea that it was to be our resting place.
The first time our stay was of very short duration,
as we were ordered off to Gwalior at a day's notice.
As we now had Sir Robert Hamilton's assurance
that we should not move until after the rains had
subsided sufficiently to make the roads passable and
the rivers fordable, we felt secure of repose, and
shelter, and comparative comfort, and also ventured
to hope for a restoration to health and strength.
We did not hesitate to take possession of a tole-
rably large room, situated in what must have been
the back yard of a ruined bungalow. The tottering
walls which came crashing down about our ears
pretty frequently as the rains wore on, gave such
an air of insecurity to the whole building, that few
envied us our habitation. There ' was a ee godown,"
or cook-house, which our principal seorvmts occupied,

M 2

164 CAMPAIGNING EXPE1UENCES.

some smaller buildings like pigsties, where the
oiorawallahs made themselves comfortable, and a
pigeon-house for the treasure guard. The Brigadier
gave up the compound to us, so that we had a garden
and large field, an avenue, and two entrance gates ;
and as the large tent was pitched near the house, \ve
were very comfortably accommodated. Our horses
were picketed near a deep well of clear water, and
I began to luxuriate in the quiet and the rest.

The artillery occupied the lines formerly in pos-
session of the artillery of the Gwalior Contingent,
and the 10th Native Infantry went to the still habit-
able native lines. The 8th Hussars were partly
under cover and partly in tents, and the Bombay
Lancers remained under canvas; their officers and
those of tho Hussars occupying a large bungaloNf
which had been left uninjured.

It was pleasant to settle down and fancy we were
going to have a little peace. I was perfectly help-
less, having temporarily lost the use of my right
hand, and felt that unless I was allowed to skep, I
should not last much longer. I slept all night and
half the day, and for three weeks never had suffi-
cient energy to walk as far as tho garden, about
twenty yards from the bungalow.

Sepree is an exceedingly pretty place. The bun-
galows, with trees* tastefully planted round them,
have almost the appearance of English villas, espe-
cially in the rains, which make India as green as

ILLNESS AND DISAPPOINTMENT. 165

England. I flattered myself with the hope of
remaining for some time at this delightful spot, and
even went so far as to write to Mhow for mustard
and cress and lettuce seeds, which, very fortunately,
did not arrive. At this time I was unable to sit up
for more than a few hours daily; and about the 2oth
of July, when I was suffering more than ordinary
pain, a Portuguese servant came to me and asked
Some question relative to the packing of our things.
<( Why do you want to know ? " " Go march to-
morrow morning Kotah!" When my husband
returned from transacting business with the Briga-
dier, he told me it was but too true. The rebels
were supposed to be in the neighbourhood of Jeypoor,
whither General Roberts was gone, from Nusscer-
abad, in pursuit, and it was dreaded that they would
establish themselves in the strong fort of Boondee,
or, worse still, in the arsenal at Ajmere.

Brigadier Smith received two imperative orders,
one forwarded by Brigadier-General Napier, and the
other by General Roberts, to join the division under
the latter as soon as possible. Meanwhile, the
heavens were flushed with lightning, and hard and
steadily came down the rain. A pleasant prospect
truly, that of marching and encamping in the- midst
of the rains of a tropical climate, risking fever, ague,
and rheumatism, when we are all, with scarcely an
exception, exhausted by pain and fatigue !

Upon the discovery of a ghaut impracticable for

166 CAMPAIGNING EXPEEIENCES.

guns, the Brigadier resolved not to attempt the
shortest route by Shahabad, but to proceed down the
Trunk road via Goonah. This arrangement pos-
sessed two advantages ; in the first place it avoided
the cross country tracks which are at this time
simply impracticable; and in the second, by march-
ing to Goonah we ran a chance of falling in with
some money, of which the brigade was so destitute
that the commissariat officer reported that he could
only move along the Trunk road, where we were
known, as the people on the Shahabad route would
refuse to supply him on credit. I was glad to find
.we were to go to Goonah, as my nice horse Prince
was still left there in Captain Mayne's care, and I
should thus have the opportunity of recovering him
without trouble.

On the 30th July we still found ourselves at
Sepree, and as the rains were incessant, there seemed
to be no immediate prospect of leaving it A few
days before, Sir Eobert Hamilton went through on
his way from Gwalior to Indore 5 his train was three
days passing through Sepree, and very soon after
leaving it, in spite of his elephants, he stuck fast in
the mud. This news we heard with rather more
satisfaction than the misfortunes of our friends gene-
rally afford us; for if Sir Robert Hamilton could
not get on with elephants, how could we hope to get
on with camels, which fall down on slippery or
muddy soils and never rise again. He brought us>

CRIMEAN KEMINISCENOES. 167

under an escort of Meade"s Horse, a lakh and a half
of rupees, which replenished our exhausted treasury.
The miserable condition of the camels which con-
veyed it reminded us of the gaunt specimens of that
animal in the Crimea, and the poor horses too looked
regularly sodden with the wet.

The Brigadier having represented the inefficiency
of our brigade without European infantry, the unfor-
tunate 95th was again detached from Gwalior, and
sent down to us in carts. They were much delayed
en route in consequence of rain, and the Brigadier
ordered a bungalow, with two or three large rooms,
to be fitted up as a hospital for them ; for he knew
that by the time they reached Sepree they would
require one. Two days after their arrival, as I was
taking a drive in the gharry for the purpose of in-
haling some fresh air, I met nay dear Prince walking
up die road, attended by his ghorawallah, who had
brought him fronx Goonah without an escort.

The Brigadier now received an order to consider
himself as attached to the Gwalior division of the
army. I am not aware if General Roberts knows
that he is shorn of his fair proportions in the shape
of our brigade; but for ourselves it does not much
matter who commands us, as I am thankful to say
the roads are pronounced impracticable.

If the loss of Sir William Peel was so sincerely
regretted by us, how much deeper, because more
personal, was the sorrow that we felt on hearing of

168 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

the death of Lieutenant-Colonel Morris, C.B., of tlio
17th Lancers. He was one of those rare combina-
tions of true Christian and thorough soldier who raise
and ennoble the profession to which they belong, and
leave behind them a bright example to be followed
by those who come after. Although so young, ho
was a most distinguished officer. His gallantry at
Balaklava, where he was severely wounded, brought
his name prominently forward; and before that, lie
had already acquired fame in Indian warfare. On
leaving England in October, 1857/he looked forward
to India as a large field for future distinction, and yet
hardly six months after ho had landed in Bombay,
all these visions had passed away; bis sword was
sheathed, his armour taken off, and his soul

" To Him who gave it rose,
God led it to its long repose,

Its glorious rest.

Jtat though the wanior's sun has set,
His light shall linger round us yet,

Bright, radiant, blest ! "

Not long after this the Brigade was engaged in au
unsuccessful attempt to capture Maun Sing, who
had seized the fort of Powree, belonging to our ally
the Gwalior Rajah. A feudal baron in the dominions
of the latter, and also connected with him by family
ties, Maun Sing, after a great deal of quarrelling and
squabbling, had lieen portioned off with a certain
number of villages. But there are some people who
cannot possibly live within their incomes, and avoid

AN UNLUCKY MOVE. 169

running into debt. Maun Sing appears to have
been one of these unfortunates, and being out of
pocket, he naturally became dissatisfied. * He soon
found himself surrounded by many malcontents,
who flattered him and lied to him, until he allowed
them to attach themselves to his train, and so
from a troublesome relation he was transformed
into a formidable foe. We knew he had been
hovering about Sepree for some time, but as he dis-
tinctly avowed that his quarrel was not with the
English, but was simply a family disagreement with
the Maharajah, he was allowed to remain unmolested,
until in an evil hour, tired of being wet through in
his tent, he and his retainers ousted a garrison of the
Maharajah's from the Fort of Powree. As soou as
the intelligence of this aggressive movement against
our friend and ally reached the ears of Brigadier
Smith, he determined to start immediately in order
to recover the fort. So one morning, about the 3rd
of August, leaving beliind him only a squadron of
the 8th Hussars, another of Lancers, and two field
guns, under the command of Lieutenant LcCocq, he
set off to march eighteen miles along a cross country
track, in. tho midst of the monsoon* The forco
started at nine A.M., and by five P.M. had advanced
about ten miles towards Powree. On reaching the
fort the Brigadier found it so much stronger than
native information had led him to believe, that he was
obliged to sit down before the place and to despatch

170 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

a letter to Gwalior for siege guns and mortars,
making his force, meanwhile, as comfortable as
circumstances would permit. Maun Sing came out
of Ms fortress to an interview with the Brigadier,
who told him he was empowered to offer him his
life if he would lay down his arms. He answered,
" But I shall be a prisoner until my deatli. Of what
advantage will my life then be to me ? " He stated
again that his quarrel was solely a personal one with
the Maharajah, and had the matter rested in the
hands of the Brigadier, he might perhaps have been
turned into a valuable and grateful ally, having, as
he represented, sufficient influence to keep all this
part of the country quiet. The interview, however,
terminated inauspiciously. It was the time at
which the Lancer picket was relieved, and his
attendants, seeing horsemen riding towards them,
raised a cry of treachery, and fled into the fort
whither Maun Sing followed them in haste. He sent
an apology the nest morning for entertaining doubts
of our honour, but he ventured outside the walls no
more, and there was an end to all hopes of an
amicable arrangement. Soon afterwards Brigadier
Smith was reinforced by some details under Briga-
dier General Napier, and a siege train of two 18-
pounders and two mortars. Entrenchments were
dug, and guns were run into position ; during which
operations Lieutenant Fisher, H* M.'s 95th, was shot
through the chest. Unfortunately, as usual, there

MAUN SING'S ESCAPE. 171

was a loophole, an impracticable side to the fort,
on which the jungle was so impenetrable, and the
ground so broken by ravines and nullahs, that it
was impossible to place either guns or troops ihei*e.
Moreover, the fort was large, and the attacking force
was small ; but, nevertheless, on the 19th of August,
so sanguine were our people, that a message was
despatched to Sepree for the rest of the 8th Hussars,
the two guns, the S5th, and every convalescent from
the hospitals ; " for," said the messenger, ef we have
them in a trap, and only want all the hands we can
get to come and kill them." Such a message caused
no little excitement amongst the few left in charge
of our little cantonment. The camp was swept clean
by midnight, and only the sick, and amongst them.
my husband and myself, remained. When morning
dawned we followed the little force, so hastily sent
for, in imagination, and fancied them nearly arriving
at Powrce to assist in the work of slaughter ; but, as
no news could reach us, as far as we knew, until the
next day, we resolved to wait philosophically for
particulars until then. Wo were not a little asto-
nished when about five r.M., Lieutenant LeCocq
rode past our tent on his way to report the return of
the force, sent out seventeen hours before, to Colonel
Owen, 1st Lancers, left in command. The rebels
had fled about the time that the little reinforcement
started to cut them up ; and so stealthy were their
movement^ and so well managed tbeir retreat, that

172 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

nobody knew either tlic exact time of their leaving
or which way they had taken. Consequently, the
pursuing party, which was organised as quickly as
possible by Sir Eobert Napier, started in the opposite
direction to that taken by the fugitives ; and in the
course of the next day word came to Sepree that
Maun Sing and 1,500 of his men were at Ecyglmr,
about six miles from us, while the other 1,500 were at
Kollaris, about thirteen miles off. This news kept us
on the qui vive, as what could be easier than to sweep
our little cantonment, if they only had sufficient
courage to try it ? Everything was put in readiness
for defence, and then we betook ourselves to sleep,
undisturbed by either dreams or realities of rebels.

Meanwhile the left wing of the 8th Hussars,
attached to General Roberts' division at Nusseerabad,
had not been idle since they left cantonments on the
27th of July, for the purpose of intercepting the
rebels hovering about Jeypoor, and keeping them
from taking possession of either Boondee or Ajmere.
To convey an idea of the pleasures of marching in
the rainy season, and also of the work they found to
do, and the gallant manner in which they, in conjunc-
tion with the rest of the force, did it, I cannot do
better than subjoin copies of two letters received
about this time from Lieutenant-Colonel Niiylor, 8th
Hussars, in command of the left wing at Nusseorabad,
who was in the field, although only just recovering
from severe illness. The first ran as follows :

A HOT PURSUIT. 173

" Two Miles from Mowgaum, July 31, 1858.

cc Ws started from Nusseerabad on the 27th of
last month towards Jeypoor, for which place the
rebels, who were reported to have increased their
numbers to about 20,000, were making. They
inarched to within about sixteen miles of Jeypoor,
and finding that we had intercepted them by going
to Langaneer, about six miles from the town, they
turned southwards towards Tonk. We followed
them; and, on approaching Tonk, the General
(Roberts) detached a flying column, consisting of
about 130 Lancers, 350 Belooches, part of H. M/s
72nd, the 12th K L, B troop of Horse^Artillery, and
oitrselves.

"We started at seven r.M. from Goonsee, where we
had already arrived that morning ; and, after march-
ing all night, during which we heard a great deal
of firing at Tonk, we arrived within about five miles
of that place about seven o'clock on the following
morning.

" The men wore becoming so exhausted from the
heat, and the artillery horses so wearied, that we-
were obliged to halt. I never felt anything ap-
proaching to the intense sultriness of that day. We
lost two of the 8th from sunstroke, which affected
them whilst lying in their tents. The rebels, hear-
ing of our approach, immediately bolted with two
small guns which they had captured ; and we have
been following them sometimes by night, sometimes

174 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

by day, without any chance of catching them.
They have nothing to delay them; and can, with
ease, travel twice as fast as we. They are mostly
mounted; at least, what remain of them, for their
numbers are greatly reduced : our continued pursuit
has so disheartened them, that all their infantry have
left them. At one place our reconnoitring party
saw a body of about 500 Budmashes in the hills,
who fired at them and killed a horse. They were
supposed to be returning to their homes at Kotah;
but the country is full of these fellows, and any
camel of ours that cannot get on is immediately
looted; and one of our men, when only about half
a mile from camp, was fired at, the ball going
through the peak of his cap, and grazing his eye-
brow. We hear that there are;not above three or
four thousand of them left together, and their only
object is to plunder towns. We have saved Jeypoor,
Tonk, and Boondee, as well as several smaller places,
from their depredations. We went through Booudee,
and hearing that the rebels had gone through a pass
further south, with the intention of endeavouring,
if possible, to push on towards Adeypoor, where
they have many friends, we made for Jehazpoor
to cut' them off. . , . . We arrived at this
place (Mowgaum) on the 21st; and we have just
progressed two miles in eleven days ! On arriving
at the river we found it was not fordable; but,
after waiting three days, succeeded in crossing it.

A MARCH BT THE RAINS. 176

" The following morning we attempted to march,
to Etonda ; but, after passing through a deep nullah,
and floundering along a road always up to our horses'
knees, and many times up to their girths in black
mud, the day broke, and disclosed to us the pleasing
facts that we had progressed about a mile from the
camp, and that the greater part of our force, and
all our baggage, had been unable to cross the nullah,
in consequence of a sudden rise in the water, already
sufficiently deep ; so we returned to camp ; the greater
number of us, who were already over, having to
wait some hours before the nullah was sufficiently
fordable to recross. Since that day we have been
unable to move, and have narrowly escaped starva-
tion ; we consumed our last morsel of flour on the
evening of the 29th, and the horses, who were stand-
ing very nearly up to their knees in water, had not
had any grain or hay for two days, so it became a most
distressing matter of necessity that we should get out
of that somehow. Fortunately the rain, which had
been pouring for some days, ceased, and enabled us
to cross the nullah and get through about two miles
of deep mud to a village where we are now en-
camped. We had to employ all the camels of tJie
force to carry the baggage of the Lancers and our-
selves- They took over five hours doing the two
miles : this was yesterday morning, and we rektmed
the camels to bring up the rest of the force; but as
they have not yet arrived^ and it is late, I fancy they

176 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

must have got into a fix. It is quite impossible to
get the guns through the two miles we travelled
yesterday. The camels suffer terribly in this muddy
weather, as they slip down, with their great spongy
feet, and cannot get up again. The river by which
we are encamped, and which was not more than
a small brook when we first arrived, became, when
it rained, such a torrent, and ran with such violence,
that it resembled a very heavy sea running, and one
night was very nearly inundating the whole camp.
I had to shift my tent once at midnight, as the river
flooded me out, so I moved to a most attractive
spot, where the water was only ankle deep instead
of reaching to my knees. We have been out of
beer and every other luxury for some time, and
have to content ourselves with rations, and be thank-
ful that we are not starved We hear

the rebels are at Mandulgurh, and are anxious to
cross the Burnass River to Adeypoor ; however, they
cannot manage that yet, as the river is not ford-
able, and as the General (Roberts) is moving along
the other bank, I suspect they \ull have to return
to the ChumbuL They have, ever since we have been
following them, stuck closely to the hills, never being
above three miles from them, in case of being obliged
to halt. We hear they are in great distress, and
starving in numbers ; the late weather must have
told most fearfully upon them ; I suppose they have
been in the villages in the hills near Mandulghur.

PERSEVERANCE REWARDED. 177

As long as they remain where they are neither
cavalry nor artillery will be of much use against
them."

Englishmen, however, are not easily diverted from
their purpose, and a second letter received some time
later, gives the result of all these troublesome marches
and privations.

"Nernucl, August 21, 1833.

". . . . We have had terribly hard work
lately. On the 8th of the month we got the order
to join General Boberts' force : we had been march-
ing in the morning, but started at half-past sis in the
evening, and arrived at Bheelwarra about one o'clock
the following day, having marched upwards of thirty
miles. We then made three long marches one of
nineteen miles, one of twenty miles, and one of
twenty-eight miles.

" The following day we were rewarded for our
toils, by finding the enemy drawn up and waiting for
us, after we had marched about seven miles. We
certainly have done what no other column has, in
bringing an unwilling combatant to an engagement.
We had been following them up closely for seven,
weeks, when they became so harassed and .desperate,
that they determined to fight. We found them
drawn up in a magnificent position on one bank of
the river, with steep hills down to the water. We,
who were on the other bank, had to advance down a
gentle slope, about a mile long ; the Horse Artillery

178 CAMPAIGNING EXPEEIENCES.

and Cavalry moving rapidly down to the bank of the
river, where the artillery came into action, but with
little effect, as the enemy's guns and troops were
concealed amongst the hills ; whilst we were exposed
to the fire of four guns, three six-pounders and a
nine-pounder, at five hundred yards range, until the
infantry could get down the hill. The firing on
the part of the rebels was at first very bad ; but
soon after, they got our range and direction per-
fectly. I moved the cavalry twice a few yards,
when I found they were firing accurately ; but they
continued their fire on us, dropping their shot just
at our horses' feet Two shot went through the
ranks without touching anybody, but we lost four
horses, and my dear little gentle white horse was
struck full in the chest by a round shot. I had just
time to jump off him before he fell. We then crossed
the river in line, and went up the hill, when the
rebels ran away, leaving their guns and bullocks in
our hands. The cavalry immediately went after
them; and we had a grand gallop of about -three
miles through the thick of them, as they were run-
ning along a road to a village. Their cavalry, which,
with few exceptions, were well on a-head, formed on
a hill. Having pretty well pumped our horses, I
thought it advisable to stop until the artillery and
infantry came up. By the time they arrived the
cavalry had cut up all the stragglers about the plain,
and the infantry had disposed of about two hundred

DISPERSION OF THE REBELS. 179

rebels who were established on a Mil round which
we had passed, and from which they had fired at us
as we galloped by. However, they made very bad
shots: poor Sergeant-Major Holland was killed there,
but no other person touched. I was then sent on
after the enemy with cavalry and Horse Artillery,
but had to leave the artillery after about eight miles,
as they could not get on. We then went about seven
miles further, and caught them on the march. As
we galloped up to them they fired on us, threw
away their arms, and bolted into the jungle. We
skirmished through it, shooting an enormous number
of rebels, who tried to conceal themselves in bushes.
Very few attempted to make any resistance, as they
had thrown away or concealed their arms. We took
three elephants and a lot of camels, carrying the
Nawab's kit, containing gold shawls, valued at
10,000 rupees. We then, our horses being com-
pletely exhausted, returned to the General, and
arrived at eleven at night, having been in our sad-
dles since daylight. We must have ridden a long
distance. The rebels had in the morning, I should
say, about nine or ten thousand men; there must
have been about nine hundred killed, and they are
now all scattered. We saw some of their cavalry,
but beyond firing their carbines at a respectful dis-
tance, they showed no desire to fight The JSTawab
and Tantia Topee are supposed to be with about
seven hundred cavalry, endeavouring to cross the

180 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

river Chumbul, near Ranipoora. I thought tliat day
would, perhaps, terminate our labours ; but during
the last week we have been so hardly worked that
we are brought to a stand-still, men and horses
being completely exhausted. I have ceased to count
inarches by miles, as we generally march with in-
fantry, and they delay us so much on the road, that
I calculate by hours. We marched with the General
on Monday and Tuesday, and then started at three
A.M., on Wednesday, for Gangapoor, arriving there
at eleven A.M. We started to join Brigadier Parkes
at eight P..M., and arrived at Chittore, about four P.M.
On ^Friday morning, we started at sis A.M. via Jawud
to Neemuch, where we arrived at ten o'clock at
night, doing about four ordinary marches in one.
Brigadier Parkes wanted to take us out early this
morning thirty-tivo miles ; but I told him it was im-
possible that we could get our horses to drag their
slow length over more than ten miles. Without our
detachment, the Brigadier had a stronger force of
cavalry than we have had to pursue their entire
army. I shall be glad to hear they have crossed the

Chumbul .We left Stourton with

General Roberts' force, sick with fever. We are all
more or less shaky, but I hope rest and beer will set
us right. Richards and Haynes are both quite unfit

to be with us from illness The name of the

place, where we fell in with the rebels, is Kuttoria."
But to return to ourselves, the pursuing column,

HERB KoNIG'S FLIGHT. 181

which I mentioned as having been organized by Sir
Robert Napier to pursue the fugitives from Powree,
consisted of one squadron of H. M.'s 8th Hussars,
two six-pound guns of the 3rd Troop Horse Artil-
lery under Lieutenant Hoskins, two nine -pound
guns under command of Lieutenant Strutt, some of
Meade's Horse, one hundred of H. M.'s 95th, and
the 10th and 25th Native Infantry; the whole under
command of Lieutenant -Colonel Robertaon, 25th
Native Infantry. Before leaving Powree, Colonel
Robertson expressed his intention of not returning
until he had accounted for those, of whom he was
sent in pursuit. The remainder of the brigade
dropped into Sepree by degrees. They were de-
tained some days for want of camels, as between three
and four hundred extra ones were sent with Colonel
Robertson, in order to mount the infantry; and of
four hundred others sent out to Powree, two hundred
went astray, and were not recovered for some days.
At this stage of the proceedings our bandmaster,
Herr Konig, sent in his resignation, and by way of
making sure, started from Bombay in a sailing vessel
bound to Liverpool, before it was accepted. His
reasons, amongst others, were that "his hair was
turning grey from the climate, and that the Dhobies
had hammered his wife's linen until it was utterly
destroyed." In short, he declared that it was im-
possible he could remain longer in " so detestable a
country."

182 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

It was on the morning of the 31st August that Bri-
gadier Smith marched into Sepree; and the troops
which accompanied him had scarcely breakfasted in
their newly-pitched tents,, when a telegraphic message
came in from Jubra-Pattun 5 saying that the rebels
were in possession of the town. The first idea con-
veyed by the news was that we were to start off
without delay to Jubra-Pattun^ which is six marches
from KotaL We were only kept in suspense for a
day or two, and then Sir Robert Napier., who had no
idea of giving us any more rest or peace, and who
seems to have arrived at Sepree with a prejudice
against the place, again marched us out.

1S3

CHAPTER XII.

* Paint but pursuing."

" How dull it is to pause to make an end
To rust unburnished -not to live in use;
As tho' to breathe were life ! M

ULYSSES.

ON the 3rd September, the force, accompanied by
the siege train, marched out of Sepree about sis
miles, and encamped at Syssee, a village with an old-
fashioned fort, half way to Kollariss. The rain did
not permit ^us to start before half-past two in the
afternoon, and our tents were not pitched on the new
-ground before dark. In the midst of the night the
Brigadier was aroused by the Arrival of a despatch
from Sir R. Napier, who himself remained behind
at Sepree, saying that Maun Sing was again at Raj-
ghur, and requesting that we would detach a force
in pursuit. The Lancers, under Lieutenant-Colonel
Curtis, and the unfortunate 95th, started accordingly
at daybreak, and returned next night, having seen
nothing of Maun Sing, but having marched thirty-
four miles.
The company of the 95th that left in the morning,

184 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

piled only sixteen stand of arms on their return ; the
rest of the men, having fallen out by the way, came
lagging and straggling into camp in the course of
the night. We were detained for eleven days at
Syssee, and it was only on the 7th September that
news reached us of the column under Lieutenant-
Colonel Robertson, which had started from Powree
in pursuit of Maun Sing. After many difficulties
and disappointments, after incessant marching and
terrible fatigue, they at length overtook the rebels
at Beejapore. Major Chetwode, who wrote, reported
nine cases of jungle fever. He also stated that
Lieutenant Fawsett, 95th, was killed, and Captain
Poore and Lieutenant Hanbury, of 8th Hussars,
wounded.

The nest rumour relative to the movements of
the rebels which reached our camp, was one which
ultimately affected us very considerably. It was
ihat Tantia Topee had again assembled a numerous
force at Bhopal, and was endeavouring to get south-
wards. At the same time we had a visit from Sir
E,. Napier, who alarmed us by saying that as the
GKvalior and Jhansi troops were not to be disturbed,
lie intended to make us into a movedble column as
soon as sufficient camels could be procured from
Agra to enable us to move easily and to mount the
infantry if required. Soon afterwards we heard
that we were to march to Goonali, then that we were
to remain where we were, in order to protect Sepree

ELEPHANTINE FASHIONS. 185

and Kollariss ; and, at last, hopes were raised by
Sir Robert Napier that we should work our way
northwards, and replace the 9th Lancers atUmballah,
a hill station about sixty miles from Simla, in a most
healthy and delightful climate. But the trumpeters
of the brigade by sounding "orders" late in the
evening of the 14th September, put to flight all our
anticipations of Umballah, on the road to which we
should have again passed through beautiful Gwalior,
and have seen the famous Taj at Agra, that most
wonderful and beautiful tomb, in itself a commen-
datory epitaph.

We learned that the Brigadier-General had re-
ceived orders by telegraph from Sir Colin Campbell
now elevated to the peerage by the title of Lord
Clyde to send our unfortunate brigade to Goonah,
without loss of time. This order upset all Sir
Robert Napier's previous arrangements, and was
received with dissatisfaction by us^ but with pleasure
by the 3rd troop Bombay Horse Artillery, who
looked forward to returning to their own presidency.
The siege train was taken from us at dawn, and
ordered to return to Sepree. I was quite sorry
when the elephants wont ; for being an invalid, and
unable to use my foot, it was a great pleasure and
entertainment to watch the odd ways and customs
of these great beasts. They would dress themselves
up like King Lear, in grass and straws, throwing
great wisps over their heads and backs to keep away

186 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

the flies. They would then take another wisp and
twist it about until it was properly shaped, when they
would use it as a brush to drive away the same
tormentors from their chests and legs, their great
ears flapping like punkahs all the while. It was
curious to see the elephant walking to the well,
carrying his own bucket and rope, and mating a
staircase of his fore-leg, in order that the mahout
might mount by it. He first raised the foot a little,
bending the fetlock; when the mahout had raised
himself upon this, the animal gradually bent his
knee until the man could step easily from the foot
to the fore-arm, and thence scramble up by his ears.
After reading the account of Mademoiselle Djek,
in Charles Eeade's "Cream," I have not been
so anxious to trust myself within range of their
trunks; but they appeared perfectly dooile and
were generally trumpeting a sign of satisfaction I
believe.

On the same morning that the order arrived for
us to move, the 14th September, we had sent all our
sick into Sepree; and had also despatched thirty
carts, and as many camels, to bring up more than
one hundred sick men from Colonel Robertson's little
column. These carts, in consequence of our sudden
movements, were recalled.

On the 14th and 15th of September thirteen cases
of fever occurred ha the squadron of the 8th Hussars
only. We now heard that the rebels were not at

BULLOCKS IN DISTRESS. 187

Bhopal, but were endeavouring to reach that place ;
that General Mitch el had sent out his division in
three columns; and that we were to march, by a
route of sixteen marches, to Bhopal, joining some
of General Mitchel's force by the way.

We left Syssee the day we received our orders
and marched thirteen miles to Lukwassa, where we
were compelled to halt, on account of the rain. It
came down as soon as the column reached the
ground, and before the arrival of the baggage. The
ground on which our tents were to be pitched was
soon flooded. The baggage had a weary time of
it, some of the carts, which started at three A.M., 'not
arriving until five or six o'clock in the afternoon.
The treasure tumbril of the 95th regiment, which
had very high wheels, stuck fast in a hole opposite
our tent. The pair of bullocks attached to it were
utterly unable to move it, and as the blows fell a
great deal faster than we liked, my husband sent a
pair of powerful bullocks, used as leaders in one of
the brigade treasure tumbrils, to assist. Even with
this reinforcement, the wheel, which had now sunk
nearly to the axle, refused to stir. Several men
applied their shoulders to it, while others pushed
behind, but with no better success. Eventually, with
the aid of another pair of magnificent bullocks, it was
hauled out by sheer strength, the leaders ptJliag
until they fell in the black mud. As soon as it was
set in motion, the brigade treasure bullocks were

188 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

detached and the tumbril started again with its own
pair ; they went on for about twenty yards, and then
stuck fast once more. One of the mess store carts
did not come in until the following morning, when
five extra pairs [of bullocks were required to draw
it to the camp. At this time I received the follow-
ing letter from an officer of tho 8th Hussars, with
the squadron in pursuit, under Lieutenant-Colonel
Robertson, giving the following account of the action
at Beejapore, which appears to reflect the highest
credit both upon Lieutenant-Colonel Robertson for
the energy and perseverance with which he followed
the enemy, and upon the men who fought so well
after such great fatigue.

Goonah, September 14, 1858.

"We got over more than twenty miles the first
day, and luckily hit on the track of those of whom
we- were in pursuit, at the village where we halted
at dark. We were obliged to march almost entirely
by daylight, on account of the rocky and otherwise
dangerous nature of the ground, especially on ac-
count of the guns. We followed the track of the
fugitives for five marches; and once were so close
upon them, that we lighted our pipes at the fires
of their encamping ground the night before. After
making five marches we arrived at a village called
Sangie, on the banks of a river running into the
Parbuttee. At this place we halted one day, partly

ESCAPE OF MAUN SI^G. 189

on account of having lost all trace of the rebels,
and partly because our own horses, and those of
the Horse Artillery urgently required rest. At
Sangie it appeared that we had lost all trace of
Maun Sing,* but that we were on the track of a
number of the Grwalior Contingent and others. Our
sixth march was not much more than twelve miles.
The next day we started late, and did not get to
our ground until after dark. Here Colonel Robert-
son got such information as induced him to thiuk
that, by pushing on with a part of his force, he
might come up with the rebels. Accordingly, he
started at two in the morning with fifty of our men,
the Irregulars, the European infantry, and part of
the native. The remainder of the force he left with
the guns, it being thought unsafe to leave them
without protection, as Maun Sing was believed to
be in our rear with 1,400 men. Those left behind
followed at daylight; and, after a very long march,
which took us right out of the jungle into the open
country, we came up with Robertson (who had seen
nothing of the rebels), and halted under the trees
at the same place that we encamped in May last.
The Colonel seemed much disheartened, but resolved
to make one more effort, and if that did not succeed,
promised us to give up the pursuit. The horses
were very much done indeed^ and most of those

* He bad doubled back to Kajgbur and Kollariss, near Seprce.

190 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

of the artillery were without shoes. After the men
had had their dinners, about five P.M., the same paity
started in advance as before, leaving the rest to
follow at daylight.

" To the surprise of many, just at daylight the fol-
lowing morning the enemy were discovered. ,They
were encamped on a rising ground, just beyond the
village of Beejapore. A broad, shallow river ran
past the village, and close to the ground on which
the rebels were. At a short distance before arriving
at the village, the infantry were extended in skirmish-
ing order along the valley of the river, and the
cavalry were sent round at a trot on the far side
through the village. The infantry first attracted the
attention of the enemy, but being hidden by the
houses, our fellows, and the rest of the cavalry,
were upon them before they were aware of their
approach, and in the thick of them before they had
time to fire more than one round from their muskets
which they had prepared for the infantry. They
were completely taken by surprise. Down the bank
and into the river they went as quick as ever they
could, the mounted men being the first in, but not
without leaving a good many with unmistakeable
tokens of the will with which our fellows handled
their swords. The infantry caught them as they
crossed the river, but at a great disadvantage, as
the rising sun was full in their eyes. After the first
dash of our fellows, the work of destruction appears

WOUNDS AND DEATH. 191

to have been carried on in a desultory sort of manner.
The bank of the river was too perpendicular to allow
of horses crossing immediately; they had to ride
alongside it a little distance, and cross lower down.
They then formed again, and went at the rebels,
who were in a body; but from the ground being
cut up by deep nullahs and rents, the fight was
necessarily of a very scattered character. The enemy
ran into the nullahs, and were shot down by dozens,
and in some places by twenties. Many fought despe-
rately ; being driven to bay, as it were, they could
not help it. One man in particular, although brought
down to a sitting position, fought until the very last.
They fired their muskets, then drew their swords,
and stood, until they were either riddled by bullets
or pierced by the bayonet. Our casualties, consider-
ing the desperate nature of their resistance, were
very few ; and some of these were caused by acci-
dents from our own people. Poor Fawcett, 95th, was
shot high up in the middle of the chest ; he breathed
for twenty minutes. He and a few men were making
a rush at a lot of fellows. Poore (8th Hussars)
received a cut on the wrist, severing the tendons,
and he is not going on well I am sorry to say, as.
it will not heal. Hanbury (8th Hussars) got a slice
from a sword on the fleshy part of the shoulder
and back of his arm. The enemy were all regular
sepoys; most of them wore pouches and belts. The
greater part had percussion muskets; and several

192 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

had medals for Mooltan, Cabul, Pegu, &c. Tlieir
loss must have been nearly five hundred, and few
could have got away without a mark of some sort.

The 95th did the greater part of the

work. The 86th were altogether too late, although

they were mounted, while made the 95th

march. The 10th Native Infantry worked right
well, and kept up side by side with the 95th, and
never stopped for anything. Sergeant Major Cham-
pion is going on well ; he was shot in the breast . . .
Tantia Topee is, as of course you know, expected

to cross the road and go to Bhopal The

country we marched through was very like parts
of Herefordshire, wood and rock, with here and
there an opening ; and the atmosphere was that
of a forcing house so hot, steaming, and damp."

This was a brilliant 'day's work, of which Colonel
Robertson had reason to be proud.

We marched into Goonah at about six o'clock on
the morning of the 21st, and found two pieces of
good fortune awaiting us, viz., our letters and two
tattoos, laden with stores from Mhow, consisting of
beer, sherry, brandy, coffee, writing-paper, &c., all
much needed, and most acceptable. The contents of
the mail was rather amusing, as regarded the Briga-
dier. About an hour after we had started on our
march in the morning, a messenger from Sir Robert
Napier had overtaken him, saying that the rebels

TRIPLE OBDE&S. 193

were all gone to Shahabad, and ordering him to
return and proceed to that place. As we could only
arrive at Shahabad by retracing our march along
the Trunk Koad to within twelve miles of Sepree,
this was disheartening enough. The mail-bag, how-
ever, brought the Brigadier a letter from General
Roberts, desiring that, as soon as he had finished
co-operating with General Michel, he should return
to Rajpootana, and place himself again under General
Roberta's orders. It also brought a telegraph from
General Michel, desiring him to inarch immediately
on Seronge, a fortified town, situated south-east of
Goonah, where Tantia Topee has established himself.
So that in about three hours, the Brigadier received
as many different orders from as many different
authorities, and to crown all, the telegraphic wire
was discovered to be broken in two places, so that he
could communicate with none of them. Sir Robert
Napier would have us inarch due north, General
Roberts wanted us almost due west, and General
Michel urgently required us south-east ! The hopes
of the Brigade were fixed enjoining General Michel,
and the wish to proceed to Bhopal via Seronge was
universal.

It was fortunate for us that we reached Goonah
before the rains, which again came down in torrents,
accompanied by blinding lightning and deafening
thunder. These are supposed to be the finishing
rains of the season ; and the hard gravelly soil of

o

194 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

Goonah enables us to trench our tent sufficiently
to keep it tolerably dry.

On the morning of the 23rd, Brigadier Smith
received a communication from Major Macpherson,
insisting that the rebels were moving on Shahabad.
We ought to feel flattered at the anxiety evinced to
retain the force in Bengal ; and might do so, did we
not know that we axe only required to act as a police
force, while the Jhansi and Gwalior troops remain
undisturbed. We found Colonel Robertson very ill
at Goonah ; and his brigade, the command of which
had devolved on Major Chetwode, 8th Hussars,
absent in pursuit of some rebels supposed to be pass-
ing about forty miles to the south. The morning
after we marched in, the Brigadier received a de-
spatch from Major Chetwode, saying that the infor-
mation had proved entirely false, and that no rebels
had ever been in the neighbourhood. Major Chet-
wode then endeavoured to rejoin the Brigadier at
Goonah, but was much impeded by the torrents of
rain. Captain Mayne had been absent with his body
of Irregular Horse for some time, moving sooth of
Ragooghur. We were detained for three days at
Goonah, waiting for definite orders as to which
superior was to be obeyed; and I was not sorry
to be able to ride round the cantonment now that
it was dressed in green. The tall, mowing grass
rose to our horse's girths, and the thick ta&gled
bushes, all a-gleain with recent rain, looked more

A GAIXANT SERJEANT-MA JOE. 195

English and home-like than anything I had seen in
this country.

On the 25th September, at three A.M., we marched
out of Goonah, leaving Captain Poore suffering from
the effects of fever, in addition to his wound, which
was going on anything hut well, and taking with us
Sergeant-Major Champion, whose gallant bearing
during the action of Beejapore deserves record. He
was, as before mentioned, shot through the breast,
the ball coming out beneath the shoulder-blade. He
naturally believed himself mortally wounded; and
although struck quite at the beginning of the fight,
he continued to ride on and to fight, not knowing
but that each movement of his body might cause
death. On the first hasty medical inspection, it was
thought that the ball had actually pierced the lungs,
nor was it until after a second and very careful
examination that it was found to have traversed
round the ribs.

The Assistant Quartermaster-General attached to
the brigade having reconnoitred the road to Bhadore,
pronounced it totally impracticable; and we, in con-
sequence, took a shorter route for the first three or
four miles. We marched until daylight through a
fen, full of holes and standing water, with long rank
grass brushing the horses' sides. I had intended
riding, but went the first half of the march, in a
dooley, nor was I sorry to find myself in it, as the
troop horses stumbled and floundered along, sinking

o 2

196 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

to tlieir knees, and, in the effort to struggle out, fall-
ing almost on their heads. I looked out just in time
to see "the Pearl," who was saddled and led after
ray dooley by his syce, go headforemost down a piece
of rotten ground into a sedgy hole full of water, after
which I closed the purdah, and looked out no more.
At length we gained a gravelly soil, and the latter
part of the march was pleasant enough. The coun-
try was thickly wooded and hilly, with long grass
and flowers ; and the scenery was really picturesque
and pleasing ; a luxury one is rarely blest with in
India.

The baggage, as might be expected, was arriving
by instalments nntil six in the afternoon; and the
1 next morning, the deaths of nineteen camels, which
had been overloaded and had fallen during the
inarch, were reported to the commissariat officer.
The rain, which came down steadily that night and
the next morning, again stopped us; and we now
heard that Tantia Topee and a large force were
awaiting us at Seronge. Sir Robert Hamilton re-
ported their numbers at 10,000 ; and from other, but
I should imagine less authentic sources, the Briga-
dier was informed that they mustered 17,000 men.
Our brigade, reinforced by taking back most of our
own men from Colonel Robertson, who gave them tip
unwillingly enough, numbered about 1,100. The
odds are great ; but no one feels any doubt about
our being quite able to cope with them, especially

BLACK SOIL IN THE BAINS. 197

should Brigadier Parkes and General Michel move
up to help us. The 17th Lancers are at last turned
out of their comfortable bungalows at Kirkee, and in
squadrons and wings are marching up to Mhow. Sir
William Gordon, with one squadron, arrived there
some time ago; and Lieutenant Wood, weary of
inactivity when real work was going forward, volun-
teered to serve with the 3rd Bombay Light Cavalry,
and is under Captain Mayne's orders.

On the 27th September, another letter was re-
ceived from Sir Robert Hamilton, urging the Briga-
dier to hasten to Seronge. In vain did he, in his
anxiety to obey the summons, ride down the road
twice before twelve o'clock to see whether he could
not persuade himself that it was passable. But the
rain was heavy and frequent; and the baggage
animals failing us so fast, with no possibility of re-
placement, that he was obliged to content himself
with fretting and eating out his heart, until three
o'clock in the afternoon of the 28th, when, as Hie
sun shone and the tents were positively dry, he ven-
tured to try a move of three miles to a piece of red
soil. He accomplished it, but with severe loss. I
rode almost the first of the whole column, wisely
remembering that the more the ground was trodden
the deeper it would be. Presently, the horseman
immediately preceding me sank in the deep black
earth up to the roots of his horse's tail ; this was the
first horse down. He was quickly followed by one

198 CAJtfPAIGKXNa EXPERIENCES.

of our own troopers, which was for some time unable
to extricate himself, rolling several times over, and
being up to his neck. The Horse Artillery had
fearful work; nor would they have arrived before
the next morning, had not the 95th Regiment
assisted them. One horse remained head under for
so long that, when first dragged out, he was sup-
posed to be dying. None of the baggage-train,
except a few camels, nor the treasure tumbrils,
nor the mortars, came in before the next day.
Twenty camels were reported a dead," and the road
"a wreck of carts." The change, however, was
much for the better, as far as the health of the
troops was concerned; they were camped on fine,
high, dry ground, and no longer laid down to sleep
in odorous and slushy mud. A jemadar, of the 1st
Lancers, who came in soon after we reached our new
ground from spying at Seronge, reported that Tantia
Topee had strongly entrenched himself, and that he
was aware of Brigadier Smith's approach.

A letter received the following morning from
General Michel, announced his intention of making
an attack on the south side of Seronge, simulta-
neously with ours on the north; and added, of
course, that ** should the enemy escape, Brigadier
Smith's column would pursue." But by noon, news
had come that the Naaa, with a large force, had
raised his standard in the north, and that Tantia
Topee had abandoned Seronge, for the purpose of

PLUNTDEft OF ESAUGHUE. 199

joining Tnm. The letter suggested that we should
retrace our steps via Goonah and Sepree, towards
the Nana ; in which case, I may bid a fond farewell
to all hopes of seeing my English box, now on the
road from Bombay to Mhow, and also to the idea of
resting awhile in the latter cantonment.

On the following morning we started at two A..M.,
to march by the large and very pretty fortified
village of Bujianghur into Goonah. Colonel Robert-
son, who is still detained here by illness, no sooner
heard of the approach of Brigadier Smith, than he
telegraphed to Sir Robert Napier for leave to resume
the 95th and 10th Native Infantry, but I am happy
to say his application did not succeed.

Our Brigadier, hearing that Tantia Topee and a
large body of men were at Esaughur, started for
that place as fast as the reduced state of the 95th and
the baggage transport would permit Captain Mayne
accompanied us with a cavalry brigade, consisting of
his own Irregular Horse and a part of the 3rd Light
Cavalry. He had joined us the day before, having
come one-and-twenty miles that morning to do so.
On arriving in sight of the town we saw the sky
obscured with smoke. Not only had Tantia Topee
stormed the place, but he had plundered and utterly
desolated it. The rear-guard of his force did not
move out until we drew up before it, and a potty of
Irregular Cavalry started at once in pursuit Bat, un-
fortunately, there were two roads from Esaughur in

200 CAMPAIGNING EXPEEIENCES.

the same direction, of which the rebels took one, and
their pursuers the other. We learnt subsequently
that Tantia had actually moved on Mahoulie that
day, but as the hearts of all are with the rebels, we
can procure no information in time for it to be of
use. About this time the most disheartening con-
tretemps of our wearisome pursuit occurred. Our
Brigadier became aware that Tantia, with 12,000
men, had gone to Chandaree. After anxious delibe-
ration the following plan, the tactics of which are
shown by the accompanying map, was resolved upon.
Chandaree, as the map indicates, is situated in the
vicinity of the Betwa River, which being at that
time so swollen as to be absolutely unfordable, was
for the moment an insuperable barrier to the escape
of the rebels eastward. Lieutenant-Colonel Robert-
son was ordered to move his force from Goonah to
Shahdowra, and so to keep the Western road closed :
Brigadier Smith at Esaughur would have defended
the Northern and North-western roads ; and General
Michel was requested to move up from Seronge, in
order to prevent the rebels from flying towards the
South, A simultaneous attack on three sides, on a
given day, with an impassable river on the fourth,
seemed to offer the opportunity which had been so long
sought for in vain, of putting an end at one blow to the
rebel forces in Central India. The only uncertainty
as to their utter destruction was the falling of the
Betwa, 1 which was not, however, likely to occur in

TANTIA IN DASTGEB. 201

time to enable them to escape. We waited anxiously
to hear whether General Michel would co-operate in
this well-organized plan, as in his last communica-
tion he had declared himself unable to move for
nine days. His Europeans, he said, were out of
groceries, and could not march until they arrived !
Without inspecting the invoice we could not tell
what condiments might be considered necessary to
enable this luxurious force to move, but it was
almost certain that before the nine days were over
the Betwa would be fordable for elephants, and in
places for horses ; when Tantia would probably bid
farewell to beautiful, solitary Chandaree, and pro-
ceed to possess himself of the rich spoils of Teary.

The guns left by Tantia at Esaughur, nine in
number, were blown up by the Horse Artillery.
The Subar, in charge of the town, who appears
from the number of dead and wounded lying in the
streets to have made as stout a resistance as he
could, was assisted by us with money, as Tantia had
taken good care to leave nothing of any value in the
town. The monsoon by this time, October 7th, had
entirely passed, and the days, once more bright and
cloudless, were of very great heat. Already the
first fresh tinge is off the green, and the country
begins to resume its brown colour. The grass in
the jungle exceeds in height and thickness any-
thing I had ever imagined, and when we first begin
to march in the morning it is saturated with dew,

202 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

which makes wading through it like passing through
a river; the smell, too, before sunrise is extremely
offensive and injurious.

A series of misfortunes befel us at this time, for
besides my being a prisoner to my tent and dooley,
with a feverish attack which left me so weak as to
be incapable of exertion, my pleasant horse Cf Pearl"
was severely kicked on the sinew of the hind leg.
There was no prospect of his being able to use his
leg for a month, even if lock-jaw did not end his
sufferings before that. Sad indeed it was to see
his pretty head bowed down by pain, and to watch
him limping slowly on three legs, and growing
thinner and thinner every day.

On the morning of the 8th of October the detach-
ment of Cavalry, under Captain Mayne, quitted us
at Esaughur and marched to co-operate with General
Michel. They left in obedience to peremptory
orders, thereby obliging Brigadier Smith to call in all
his o&tposts of Irregular Cavalry, which were watch-
ing the country between Esaughur and the river, in
a northerly direction, and so frustrating all hopes of
accomplishing his plan for catching Tantia in a
cul-de-sac. I think that were I in a subordinate
command in India, I should either throw up the
whole thing, and run away in the night, or I should
carry out my own plans in the teeth of everybody

The water of the Betwa, on the 7th of October,

BOOTS AND SADDLES. 203

was reported not more than five feet over the ford.
From what we heard subsequently, it must in reality
have been much deeper. The rebels have with them
several elephants laden with treasure. Grain of all
kinds is scarce in their wake, as being so flush of
money, they have been paying high prices for grain,
instead of taking it by force, as is their usual custom.
We rode through Esaughur, a mean, but in places a
picturesque little town. Its desolation was as com-
plete as that of Chandaree, but it lacked the beauty,
which made that place so exquisite in its mourning.

At midnight, on the 9th of October, " boots and
saddles 5 ' sounded, and by one A.M. the following
morning we were again on our travels; halting
once more at Mahoulie, which in its dress of tangled
green was hardly recognisable. The river, with its
overhanging trees* was too thick and muddy to offer
a chance of success to the sportsmen, who betook
themselves to fishing as soon as the camp business
was concluded ; the ford was three feet deep, and we
were encamped in tall, rank grass and jungle, which
we were not sorry to move out of on the following
day. Brigade orders were to rouse at two, although
the greater part of the baggage carts did not arrive
until between five and six the previous evening, and
the mortars only came in during the night. It was
intended to march to Serai, but despatches received
about an hour previous to marching caused Brigadier
Smith to direct his course to Mono&e, We heard

204 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

that General Michel had come across a portion of
the fugitive rebels, and after a fight had killed
about two hundred, and taken several guns. Tantia
Topee, with 2,500 followers, had escaped over the
Betwa having built boats for the purpose while
the treasure and women were conveyed across on
elephants. The urgency of time was so strongly
insisted upon by the General, that the propriety of
proceeding after the men's breakfasts was discussed,
but abandoned on account of the great heat of the
sun. The Bheels, who have disturbed the country
below Mhow, are reported to have robbed the post ;
it is certain that no English letters arrived by this
mail, although they are known to have been in
Bombay by the 28th of September.

Some opinion of the state of the country, and of
the tendencies of the people in Central India at this
moment may be formed from the contents of the
following letter, written by one of a party of three
Englishmen travelling down to Bombay on sick
leave,

"Mhow, October 3rd, 1858.

" . . . . Since I started from Sepree I have
had as unpleasant a time as any one need desire.
You have no doubt heard that when we arrived at
Bursode, thirty-one miles from Goonah, we learned
that Tantia's advanced guard was at Keelipore, only
eighteen miles from our next halting-place Beora,

TRAVELLING DOWN TO BOMBff. 205

u

on which place lie was then advancrq^ having
ordered 20,000 sirrs of flour and wood TJdJl&[ in
readiness for his army. As we were struggling
through the mud at the rate of nine miles in twelve
hours, we took the advice of the telegraphic in-
spector, and returned to Goonah, whither he followed
us the next day; and, in doing so, very nearly fell
into the hands of the party whom Colonel Robert-
son cut off, and who were only five miles distant

from Ragooghur, where we breakfasted

We had to remain at Goonah * chewing the cud
of patience, 5 as the Persians say, until the 20th,
when we accompanied Major Chetwode to Ragoo-
ghur. We reached Beora, sixty-one miles from
Goonah, in two days, and were highly elate at the
prospect of a speedy journey to Bombay, when we
were overtaken by one of the severest storms of
thunder and rain I ever remember to have wit-
nessed. It completely swamped the roads ; nor was
it without the utmost difficulty that we reached the
next station of the bullock train, where we arrived
about seven P.M. The Peon in charge there said
it would be impossible to proceed any further that
night, and advised our remaining in the bullock
sheds until morning, adding, that he would light
afire for us, and make us as tf khoosh' as possible*
In the morning he proposed to take us by a jungle
path, so that we might avoid the flooded nullahs.
We agreed to this, and proceeded td make ourselves

206 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

jolly over a cold fowl and some beer, in spite of the
attacks of numerous hordes of insects, who resented
our intrusion on their domains and vested rights.
Whilst thus making ourselves comfortable under

difficulties, one of our servants called Captain

out, and told him we must get away as soon as
possible, as bad work was going on. Our cook
being sick, did not, like the rest of the servants,
leave the cart, but lay in the bottom of it covered
over with saleetas, and so was concealed from the
notice of the peon, who, leaning against the cart,
thus addressed another man :

" f l have made ihe Saibs khoosh; and, as soon
as they go to sleep, we can loot the carts.'

" ' But in case they or their servants resist, you
have not enough of men.'

" The peon replied : < Oh, I have thought of that,
and have sent to the next village for ten or twelve
budmashes who are halting there, and who will do
their business.'

a< Bohut Atcha' (very good), replied the other
worthy.

"Our oook, on overhearing all this, was much
alarmed, but remained quiet until one of our servants
went to Hie cart, when he whispered to him to tell
us directly all he had gathered of this precious plot
So I sent for the peon, and told him I had changed
my mind, and should proceed at once. He was
greatly annoyed, and tried to persuade us to remain;

A DANGEROUS CONSPIRACY. 207

but, seeing we were quite determined, he left us>
and went to order the bullocks; and, strangely
enough, he and his friend held another consultation
close to the same cart.

"'Those people say they will go on; I have
ordered only one pair of bullocks to each cart, so
they will get on slowly enough for you and the
budmashes to overtake them.'

" c But how are we to attack ? '

cc c The drivers will have orders to upset the carts ;
you will then manage it easily enough,'

"This being also told me, I insisted upon two
pairs of bullocks being furnished to each of the
carts as usual, and then told the peon to get into
jny cart, as I wished for the pleasure of his com-
pany down the road. He refused at first, but the
muzzle of my pistol applied to his ear, and a gentle
wgumevtfum ad hominem from the Sergeant Major,
induced a speedy compli&ace. I then armed our
ghora-waUahs with swords, and told the peon that
if any budmashes came near us I would shoot him
that instant, while the ghora-waUahs had instructions-
to cut down the first driver who upset a cart. You
never saw such a face of terror as our friend the p$on
showed. He whispered a long time with the driver*
which I permitted, as I fancied he was giving ium
iostn*ctkas to be cautious. Whenever tije gharry
gave a greater lurch than usual, he exhibited the
greatest agitation* So we journeyed to Puchore,

208 CAHPAIGNINGr EXPEBIEETCES.

when I gave him over to two of Holkar's sepoys,
who permitted him to escape ; but Sir Robert Hamil-
ton has sent people in pursuit of him. We were
detained three days in a filthy native hovel at
Puchore, in consequence of the rising of the river,
which we ultimately crossed on charpoys (native
bedsteads), carried on men's heads. We found that
the Kola Sind River was also unfordable, by which
we were detained another day; and a third river,
the name of which I forget, detained us the greater
part of another; thus, altogether, we had a most
unpleasant journey; we lived in dirty sheds, and
were half starved; a mode of life not very con-
ducive to the restoration of health. We are now
detained at Mhow in consequence of the Bheels
being out on the road, joined by some 200 of
Holkar's Horse. They have broken the telegraphic
wire, looted the dale with the English mail, seized
the bullocks of the train, and smashed the carts,
so our journey hitherto has not been as fortunate

as adventurous "

On the 12th October General Michel rode over
to our camp, which was only nine miles from Mon-
groulee, where his force was halted, and made
arrangements with the Brigadier for pursuing the
enemy into Bundelcund. It was decided to form
the united forces into three columns, placing cavalry
and light field guns in the centre; the left wing
being composed of Brigadier Smith's infantry, with

THE BETWA IN FLOOD. 209

100 cavalry and two light guns, and the right
column of General Michel's infantry, nnder com-
mand of Colonel Lockhart. The cavalry, so it was
arranged, were to cross the river at a ford near
Mougroulee, with "between four and five feet of
water. Brigadier Smith was to cross at a ghaut
near Chandaree, and Colonel Lockhart somewhat
lower down. These three were to form a junction
with General Whitelock^ at Teary; but no sooner
was the plan formed, and the arrangements made*
than the rebels were found not to have gone to
Teary at all, but to have taken a northerly direction.
On the 14th of October the centre wing, con-
sisting of three troops 8th Hussars, a squadron 17th
Lancers, three troops 1st Bombay Lancers, a wing
of 3rd Bombay Cavalry, Mayne's Horse and Horse
Artillery, marched to a ford on the river Betwa,
about thirteen miles from Serai; and as Brigadier
Smith had received information that the ghaut at
Chandaree was utterly unfordable, he marched his
infantry to the same place, hoping to get across. But
on. the evening of the day on which we arrived,
General Michel decided that the river was quite
impracticable for infantry and for baggage carts, and
ordered Brigadier Smith not to attempt to cross it
at all ; but to proceed along its left bank as far as
Chandaree, from which place he could watch two
fords the one near that town and the other a few
miles farther down the river.

p

210 CAMPAIGNING 3E30PEEIEKCES.

Our little force now consisted only of the Brigadier
and staff, H. M.'s 95th* the 10th Native Infantry,
one troop of Hussars, two troops of Lancers, and
two Horse Artillery guns, with five Sappers and
Miners attached, together with the two mortars sent
us from Sepree; and on the morning on which
General Michel crossed the river, we returned to
Serai, not a little pleased that our baggage had
escaped heing drenched and drowned, and delighted
to find ourselves moving independently, as we, our-
selves particularly, were thereby relieved from, a
great deal of worry and annoyance.

We heard at this time of the arrival of Major
Seager in Bombay, which, as he is anxious to pur-
chase, may perhaps cause great and, on some
accounts, very beneficial changes in the regiment,
although, should they involve the loss of Lieutenant^
Colonel ISTaylor, they will cause universal regret.

On the morning of the 17th of October we agaiu
pitched our tents amongst the hills that surround
Chandaree, where we halted for some days to watch
the fords of the Betwa. If the country was beautiful
in May, when the trees were leafless and the ground
barren and bare, it acquired a double charm now
that the earth was green and the trees bent down
with foliage, and in many cases with flowers. A
beautiful ruin of what had once been a serai or
resting-place for travellers, lay on the right of our
camp, and before us were the hills topped with the

LOSS OF A FRIEND. 211

fortifications that defend the town. This evening
the mail of the 30th August reached the camp, and
a sergeant brought letters to our tent, containing
intelligence of the death of my Crimean companion
and friend, the chesnut horse Bob. When we left
England he had been committed to the care of
friends whose kindness he had enjoyed for nearly
twelve months, and from them we received the fol-
lowing account of his death :

" I have to tell you of what I fear will give you
pain poor Bob's sudden death not by bullet, but
in the common course of nature. He had never had
ache or ailment since he came into our stable, and
on Sunday, 29th August, he took his morning's feed
at eight o'clock, and went out to exercise in the park
as usual. Suddenly he staggered and fell, and was
dead in less than five minutes. He was only being
walked round, the groom riding him, and leading
another horse. He was buried in Park Coppice,
where several other old favourites lie. We are
almost as sorry for his death as you will be ; he led
an #asy life whilst in our care. < The 'Squire ' very
seldom worked him, and he ranged about in hi&
large loose box, more a show horse than anything
eke; for every one who came to the house was taken
to see him."

The next morning WG moved down a step and
rocky road, which cut the horses' feet very much, to
the east side of Chandaree^ nearer the fords, and

P 2

212 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

-encamped on more open ground. Eeceiving vague
intelligence of some Bundealahs on the opposite side
of the river, the Brigadier sent a party of the 95th,
under command of Major the Hon. E. C. H. Mas-
sey, to reconnoitre. It was found that they, were
encamped and had with them two or three small
boats, which were soon after taken by us. They
fled as soon as the white faces became visible,
although' they were on the other side of water be-
tween seven and eight feet deep.

We are urgently looking for a reinforcement of
camels, as there is actually not a spare camel in the
force ; and of the few that are left some die daily,
while others can hardly carry their loads, owing to
the frightful sores on their backs. For these the
natives know no remedy but the actual cautery, and
one is nearly deafened at times by the roars of the
unfortunate victim whose wounds are being com-
forted by the application of a red-hot iron.

The beautiful comet, which has been visible to us
for many nights, is now passing out of sight. Its
first appearance was on the evening of the 29th. of
September, soon after sunset. Since then it has been
seen nightly with more or less distinctness. At first
it caused a great sensation among the camp followers,
who were anxiously inquiring whether it was a star
of good or evil omen. For my part I cling to the
liope that it will prove the herald of peace if not of
good will, and that as its splendour has witnessed

INDECISION OF THE EEBELS. 2 IS

the decline, its departure may mark tlie suppression
of the mutiny.

On the evening of the 22nd of October, as we were
still resting four whole days of rest beneath the
shadow of the hills round Chandaree, a native arrived
with intelligence that the rebels intended to cross the
river at the Ehait Ghaut. As the information was
given by a man who had offered himself as a spy,
and as nothing was more probable than that the
enemy, knowing Scindia's force in Chandaree to be
short of ammunition, should endeavour to draw off
the European brigade, in order to gain an oppor-
tunity of crossing the river at the ford opposite the
town, It was decided to wait until the spies of our
own camp returned. In the meantime it was inti-
mated to our informant, that if his intelligence proved
correct he would be well rewarded, but if on the
contrary, he was found to have spoken falsely, he
would be hanged, a consummation he appeared to
contemplate with the most frigid indifference. Next
morning, however, his news was so far confirmed,
that the enemy were found to bo hovering on the
banks of the river, undecided whether to cross or
not; and in consequence of orders, which arrived
shortly before noon from General Michel, Brigadier
Smith marched at three P.M. for Bhorassa, in order
to guard that ford, which was only knee-deep. The
Brigade reached Serai about half-past nine o'clock
in the evening, having marched over a tetrible road,

214 CAMPAIGNINa EXPERIENCES.

up a very steep and rocky gliaut. No tents were
pitched, the men laid down in the open air, and
by five o'clock the next morning after ihis sixteen-
mile march, were again on the tramp, ten miles
further to Mongroulee, where no carts, commis-
sariat or private, appeared until four or five o'clock
in the afternoon. The English Infantry had proved
themselves more enduring than the native cattle,
which were unable, without rest, to accomplish the
severe work over the incredibly bad roads. The
men lay down until midnight, when reveille'e
sounded, and the brigade then completed the re-
maining twenty miles which lay between them and
Bhorassa, thus performing a forced march of forty-
six miles in forty-two hours.

Enough cannot be said in praise of the endurance
and fortitude of the non-commissioned officers, and
men of the 95th I do not include their officers, as
they were, I believe without exception, mounted,
and so incurred no more fatigue than the cavalry ;
but when it is considered that on this occasion the
regiment accomplished, beneath an Indian sun^ a
march far beyond anything that ever was required
of them in their native country, it becomes a matter
of regret that men, so heroic in endurance, should
have been so severely tried.

We encamped at the village of Bhorassa on the
left bank of the Betwa, opposite the Fort of Koozwye,
wherein resides a friendly Begum, who sent her

DEFEAT OF TANTIA. 215

younger brother, the Nawab, accompanied by trays
of sweetmeats, to make his salaam to the Brigadier.

Just before we reached the end of the march we
heard that General Michel had encountered the
rebels, under Tantia Topee, at a place called Sind-
waha, on the right bank of the Betwa; and Hie next
day more detailed accounts arrived by dak, and
we learned that on the 19th a severe battle was
fought, wherein the enemy mustered about ten to
one. They attempted to charge the Horse Artillery
guns, but were driven back fyy the Hussars. Lieu-
tenant Harding, 8th Hussars, was very severely
wounded in the right side, Captain Heneage's troop
lost eight men killed and wounded, and Captain
Penton's troop also suffered loss. A nullah, which
ran in front of our men, saved a good many of the
enemy, and the broken nature of the ground made
it very difficult for cavalry to work. But every
account that has as yet reached us agrees in saying
that had the cavalry been permitted to pursue as
energetically as it was their wish to do, the loss of
the enemy would have been far more considerable.

At BhorassarKoozwye, we remained four days,
spent by the Brigadier and Staff in endeavouring
to collect intelligence of the whereabouts of Tantia
and his treasure, and by me, in riding about in the
vicinity of the camp.

One evening we rode to look at the Betwa, of
which so much has been said. We found a wide

216 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

river, with a bed composed partly of sand and
partly of rocL The water had sunk so much that
the ford was easily passable on horseback. As we
returned we met a wild boar, who like ourselves was
taking his exercise in the cool of the day. The
broken nature of ihe ground, and the number of
large holes, made it impossible to give him chase,
without more danger to our horses and ourselves
than the fun of the gallop was worth. In India the
ground is in very many places perforated with deep
holes, which are never filled even with the mud
caused by the rains. Some of them, just large
enough to admit a horse's leg, are from two to
three feet deep, others are larger and deeper. In
places ihe land is honeycombed with them, so that it
is necessary to ascertain the nature of the soil before
attempting even a trot. At the same time, the
dexterity with which a horse will gallop over ground
covered with holes is very wonderful that is to say,
if his rider gives him his head, and lets him trust to
his own eyes and feet; should the rider, however,
attempt to put his judgment in place of that of his
steed, the chances are that he earns a fall, upon
ground which for eight months of the year is as hard
as brass.

217

CHAPTER XIII.

" The two corps of this army, particularly that which has been
in the north, are in want of rest. They have been in the field,
and almost constantly marching since January last ; their clothes
and equipments are much worn, and a short period in canton-
ment would he very useful to tlaem. The cavalry likewise are
weak in numbers, and the horses low in condition. I should wish
therefore to he able to canton the troops for a short time."

The Wellington despatches.

No communication was received from General Michel
from the time of the arrival of the order to move
from Chandaree until the 31st October, when, a
letter reached us at Malaghur, informing us that
General Michel, who was now marching south, had,
on the 25th inst., come across and dispersed a body
of 3,000 rebels. He desired the Brigadier to pro-
ceed by easy marches to Seronge. We hear that,
three lakhs of rupees are at Saugor, awaiting * c a
strong escort " to be supplied by Brigadier Smith ;
two lakhs for our own column, and one for that
under General Michel.

On the 30th October the 10th Regiment of Native
Infantry received a reinforcement of 250 mea and
four officers, and on the following day the brigade
was joined by 500 irregular cavalry, tinder Captain
Buckle.

218 CAMPAIGNING- EXPERIENCES.

On the 1st of November we marched to Moundalh,
and the day following to Taal. Both these marches
were in the direction of Seronge, to which place
we were proceeding in order to cover Goonali.
General Michel himself had hastened south, and we
heard of Ins force as being near the Nerbudda River.
Great diversity of opinion exists as to whether the force
nnder Tantia Topee will cross that river. Cross-
ing the Nerbudda is like crossing the Rhine the
opposite shores are inhabited by people of different
race, prejudices, and opinions. Some say that once
across the Nerbudda Tantia Topee would meet with
very little sympathy or encouragement.

A letter from an officer of the 8th Hussars shows
that the cavalry brigade has been well worked in
the pursuit. He says :

"After we left the old brigade we crossed the
Betwa River with less difficulty than we expected,
and marched for a great distance southward. We
met Lockhart's Brigade, and the two went on
together in the direction of Teary. The enemy
were known to be somewhere in our neighbour-
hood, but few suspected them to be so near as they
afterwards proved. "We marched about twelve miles
through an open cultivated country, and had forced
some little distance ahead of the infantry, when all
at once the enemy's picquets wore 'seen galloping
in, and in a few moments we came in sight of the
whole army, extended in line, on some open ground

ANOTHER BATTLE. 219

near the village of Lindwaha. We went steadily
on, and the enemy fell back upon some ridges, with
fields of very high standing grain towards the centre.
A squadron of 8th Hussars, the 17th Lancers, and
native regular cavalry were on our right; the
Horse Artillery, one troop of 8th, and Mayne's
Horse, went away to the left We rather hurried
up into action ; hut I rather think the General was
afraid of their slipping through his fingers. The
action began on the left, by the enemy opening fire
upon us from four guns* We were so short of men
that we could only reply with three, I could not
tell what was doing on our right, on account of the
high grain. After a short cannonade, the enemy,
possibly emboldened by our apparently insignificant
force, made a demonstration of attacking the guns,
and our position, for a short time, was very critical.
Not only was there a larg$ force in front, but a
lot of skirmishers had very pluckily crept close to
us in the gram" (gram grows sometimes to the
height of ten or twelve feet), ec and the bullets and
shot came in very smart. The body, who menaced
us in front, had got much less than 300 yards from
us, when lucidly for us the infantry and 9-pounder
battery came up. Grape and round shot soon made
the enemy hesitate, and before the rifles could begin
to tell, titiey moved off. Those on tihe right were
not idle, but owing to the broken aaatore of the
ground the charge was not very effective. Men

220 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

and horses fell in the nullahs, and two of our men
were cut to pieces, from being dismounted. As
soon as the enemy took decidedly to flight, Colonel
Blake ordered me to "remain and protect the bag-
gage, which I did; and haying luckily found my
camels, was able to feed my horse. The pursuit
was continued for seven miles, being finished at the
banks of a deep river. Had the existence of the
river in front only been known to the General, we
could have driven the enemy pell-mell into it, and
the slaughter would have been immense ; as it was,
I dare say 500 is about the number killed. We
found four guns abandoned near the river. Tantia
Topee was present, but made off with his elephants
early in the day.

" Our loss (8th Hussars) was two killed and seven
wounded; six horses wounded, and nine missing;
the 17th Lancers had two or three wounded, and
the Bombay Lancers lost two men."

When within a march of Seronge we received
orders again to change our course, but nevertheless
we did go there, for not only were nearly all the
troop and artillery horses in need of shoes, but
several of the officers* horses could not be ridden, as
their feet were in so bad a state. The horses were
also many of them without clothing, which proved
very injurious during the intensely cold nights.

The monotony of our domestic life was at this
time disturbed by the discovery that our Portuguese

A DISHONEST CATERER, 221

butler, hitherto deemed a respectable man, had been
carrying on a system of gross extortion. We found
that we could be supplied with the only procurable
luxuries, bread and meat for ourselves, and grass
and grain for our horses, at about 200 rupees a
month less than the rate at which he had been
charging us. European stores such as wine, brandy,
beer, coffee, tea, sugar, cheese, bacon, &c., are only
to be obtained at rare intervals from the Parsee
merchants at Agra, Mhow, or Bombay; and as to
potatoes, we have not seen any since we left Major
Macpherson's hospitable roof in the Phool-Bagh at
Gwalior.

On the 4th of November, the day on which we
reach Seronge, with its tall and goodly trees and its
fretted buildings, we heard officially that General
Michel intended to return the larger part of the
cavalry and the artillery to this brigade. Captain
Heneage remains with his troop of Hussars, nor can
we regret that an officer who has proved himself so
energetic, yet so steady and cool when in action, and
so ^efficient and popular when in camp, should have
the advantage of seeing active service in the field.
The remainder of the cavalry, under command of
Acting Brigadier Colonel de Salis, were to have
rejoined us on the 7th of November ; but the Colonel
sent word that they were so tired, and their horses
in such an exhausted condition, that they were
unable to proceed, adding, (< that a three weeks' halt

222 CAMPAIGNING EXPEDIENCES

at host was required;" but as his men and horses
cannot be more exhausted than the rest of the
brigade, I do not imagine that his reasons for a
three weeks' halt will be considered satisfactory.

Captain Buckle, in command of the Irregular
Horse, has given my husband some curious infor-
mation respecting the habits of the Bheels, who have
made themselves so troublesome lately. They are
believers in witchcraft ; and there are persons
amongst them who obtain their livelihood by witch-
finding. A misfortune occurring to one of their
community, the witch-finder is sent for to discover
through whose evil agency the victim suffers. This
man artfully discovers some female who is the a pet
aversion" of his employer, and at once declares her
to have bewitched him ; upon which she is seized
and hung up by her heels. If the torture drives
her to confession, she is burnt without any further
ceremony. If, on the contrary, she persists in her
innocence, she is sure, soon after, mysteriously to
disappear.

We have been much interested lately by a history
of the Nana and his family, previous to the rebel-
lion; and I venture to make a few extracts which
may throw some light on the apparently unprovoked
atrocities of this monster.

" Nana Sahib, Rajah of Bithoor, is the eldest son,
by adoption, of Badjee Eao, ex-Peishwa of the
Mahrattas* For many years previous to his death,

THE NANA. 223

Badjee Rao had been a dethroned pensioner of the
East India Company. When in the fulness of his
power, he had, as a native prince, assisted the East
India Company hi their war against Tippoo Saib,
the tiger of Seringapataua; and as a reward for
doing so, the Company, after years of strife with
him after negotiations, exactions, and treaties, and
violations of these treaties on their parts contrived
in 1817 to get hold of his dominions. After nume-
rous and fierce conflicts, Badjee Rao, at the head of
8,000 men, with an advantageous post, was pre-
pared to do battle for the sovereignty of the Deccan ;
when Brigadier-General Sir John Malcolm, who
commanded the British force, sent a flag of truce to
him with proposals of surrender.

" The proposals on the part of Sir John Malcolm
were that Badjee Rao, the Peishwa of the Mah-
rattas, should renounce his sovereignty altogether;
that he should come within twenty-four hours, with
his family, and a limited number of adherents and
attendants, into the British camp ; that they should
be received with honour and respect ; that he should
be located in the holy city of Benares, or some other
sacred place of Hindoostan ; that he should have a
liberal pension from the East India Company for
himself and his family ; that his old and attached
adherents should be provided for ; and that the pen-
sion, which was to be settled upon himself and his
family , should not be less than eight lakhs of rupees,

224: CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

that is, 80,OOOZ. per annum. After long deliberations
with, his prime minister and other great officers of
state, the Peishwa accepted these proposals, went
with his family and adherents into the British canip,
and Bithoor was afterwards assigned him as a resi-
dence. The East India Company, with their usual
grasping and illiberal spirit of covctousness, were
displeased with Sir John Malcolm for granting these
terms. They could not recede from them ; but they,
and the Governor -General, Lord Hardinge, took
care to limit the stipulated allowance to the smallest
sum mentioned in the ti'eaty namely, eight lakhs of

rupees, or 80,OOOZ. per annum In his

day, Badjee Rao, as chief of the powerful Mahratta
nation, had been a great sovereign. He survived his
downfall exercising civil and criminal jurisdiction
on a limited scale at Bithoor thirty-five years. On
the 2Sth January, 1851, he died.

C No sooner was his death made officially known,
than Lord Dalhousie tabled a minute at the Council
Board of Calcutta, ruling that the pension, expressly
guaranteed to the great Badjee Rao and his family,
should l>e withdrawn. Nana Sahib, Badjee Rao's
widows, and the other members of his family were
naturally stricken with grief and terror. They saw
themselves reduced to poverty. They had no other
pecuniary support, than some trifling sum Badjee
Rao had left behind him.

On the 24th June, 1851, Nana Sahib forwarded

TUB VALUE OF A TREATY. 225

a memorial to the Lieutenant-Governor of the North-
Western Provinces of India, on the subject. He
was told the pension could not be continued; but
that a certain tract of land would be his for life.
The Commissioner of Bithoor, a man of high rank
and standing, and who knew the circumstances and
claims of the ex-Peishwa's family, forwarded an
urgent and earnest appeal on their behalf; but in
a letter from the Secretary of the Governor-General,
dated September 24th, 1851, he received a severe
reprimand for so doing. His recommendation was
btigmatized as f uncalled for and unwarrantable.*

<e After some further efforts, Nana, Sahib addressed
the Court of Directors at Leadenhall Street, in Eng-
land. His appeal was dated 29th December, 1852.
.... The Company appear to have considered
that it added to their dignity to have the advocates
of Eastern princes waiting in their ante -rooms.
Somewhere about December, 1853, the Company
sent back Nana Sahib's memorial to the Govern-
ment of India, and the result was that nothing was
done. It would appear that Nana Sahib, with
smooth and gentlemanly manners, unites superior
abilities and passions of the strongest and most
vindictive nature. His spirit is high his vehe-
mence of the most determined character. At the
breaking out of the mutiny, which has rendered his
name so infamous, he appears to have become a
monomaniac on tiio subject of his wrongs."

Q

226 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCE

- Three or four officers of the Indian army., to whom
I have applied for information on this subject, tell
me that the pension was not guaranteed to the
family of Badjee Rao ; but I gather from their
answers that there might have been some flaw in
the wording of the agreement which \\ as taken ad-
vantage of by Lord Dalhousie. Of course, nothing
can for a moment palliate the fiend-like atrocities of
this man ; but who, or what aroused the devil in his
breast ?

227

CHAPTER XIY.

* *< I cannot rest from travel . I will drink
lafe to the lees . all times I have enjoyed
Greatly; have suffered greatly; both with those
That loved me, and alone on shore, and when
Thro* scudding drifts the rainy Hyades
Vext the dim sea " ULYSSES.

ON the 8th November we left our camping ground
nt Deepna Kaira, where we had halted during two
pleasant days, and came to within six miles of Mon-
groulee, as Maun. Sing was reported to have joined
A large body of bundealahs tit Jacklown, and to be
meditating the plunder of the former place.

On the 9th we were rejoined by part of the cavalry,
iuid all the Horse Artillery which had been detached
with General Michel on the banks of the Betwa.
They returned none the better for long marches of
thirty miles, and sometimes more, a day. The state
of forty-four of the artillery horses brought vividly
before me reminiscences of the fiimous Danubiaii
reconnaissance. Their backs will not be able to
bear a saddle for many weeks to come. The Queen's
proclamation will, it is conjectured, cause many of
the Bengal sepoys to lay down their arms. Maun
Sing might also avail himself of it, as lie has com-

Q 2

228 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

mitted no cruelties on the English," but, on the con-
trary, I am glad to say, protected and assisted several
ladies, fugitives from the Gwalior rebels, and for-
warded them to places of security. It was well for
him that he declined to surrender on the terms offered
him in liis interview with our Brigadier before Po\\-
ree. They were, "Your life shall be spared,* and
you shall have the same conditions which are granted
to the Rajah of ." "What are those condi-
tions?" " Oh! I believe they are not settled yet."'

The Rajah of was made a state prisoner, and

sent to Sind for life; a punishment greater in the
eyes of a Hindoo than banishment to Siberia in the
eyes of a Russian.

We were returning from a ride, late in the evening
of Friday, 12th November, when, to our surprise,
we found the Brigadier had struck his teni This
betokened a move, and we hastened to ascertain the
why and the whither? In consequence of some-
information received about four o'clock, it was decided
to move instantly to a place called Dum-dum, whore
Maun Sing, with a large force, was said to,. be
encamped. We started, not very hopefully, as we
had been cried "wolf" to so often before; but as the
day broke and deepened into sunrise, and then wore
on towards noon, the march became more and more
interesting. At half-past ten some spies, sent out by
the Assistant Quartermaster-General, met us, with
the news that Maun Sing's force had been Hun

AN EAGER CHASE. 229

morning at a village a. short distance ahead of us ;
and on our reaching the place we found it plundered
and deserted Information was now eagerly prof-
fered, and we found that the enemy were encamped
on the opposite side of the river, distant from us
about a mile. After halting for breakfast, under
the grateful shade of some spreading trees, we re-
sumed our route, and crossed the river, though not
without delay and difficulty, as we had to find a
fordable place as well as a pathway down its pre-
cipitous banks. Presently we saw, in the long beaten
jungle grass, unmistakcable tracks of the enemy we
were in search of. The trodden grass showed every
turn they had taken. The scent might now be said
to have been breast high; and it was followed with
the eagerness of hounds. Some men running with
;ill haste were speedily overtaken by four or five
horsemen, who dashed after them at a gallop, regard^
less of holes, and stones, and hidden nullahs. They
turned out to be Maun Sing's fishermen, and stated
that the main body were about two cos (four miles)
in .front. The sight of a poor old man, with his arm
slashed and bleeding from a sword cut, proved -that
we were still on the right track. At seven o'clock
the Brigadier halted his men for a few hours' repose,
wluch was absolutely necessary after being nearly
seventeen hours on the line of march, during whicli
only one man of the 95th had fallen out, and he
was but lately discharged from hospital.

230 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

At the village where we rested, the monsters were
said to have burnt a woman and two children about
two hours before our arrival ; and the inhabitants
who were eager for revenge, gave us, for once, truth-
ful intelligence. The camp was pitched, and the
troops allowed to sleep until half-past two : at half-
past three A.M., without sound of trumpet or bugle,
the men fell silently in, and we marched cautiously
towards the spot at which Mann Sing was encamped.
When we had proceeded about two miles the Quar-
termaster-General's spies again met us, and said that
Hie whole camp was asleep, being perfectly unaware
of our approach. I was riding with my husband
amongst the advanced guard, and could therefore
note how silently the men marched ; the only noise
was caused by a scabbard striking against a stirrup
or a spur. Just at dawn the column halted, the 95th
and 10th Native Infantry went to the front; the
cavalry followed, in front of and alongside the guns ;
and a few minutes later the artillery broke into a
gallop, unllmbered, and got into action at about 300
yards without a moment's loss of time. The enemy
awoke, startled and confused. They turned and fled,
leaving not only the whole of their camp equipage, but,
in some cases, their very children behind. Clothes,
food, arms, and burning embers strewed the ground,
and several sepoy pouches and belts were lying about
We pursued at a gallop, the guns getting into action
whenever an opportunity offered, but the execution

1HK SURPRISE. 231

was chiefly done by the Hussars and Lancers.
Between 600 and 700 were computed to have been
slain ; and the jungles were filled with wounded men.
Maun Sing, aroused by the first gun, threw himself
on his fast and famous cream-coloured horse, and
galloped for his life. His tents, camels, cooking-
vessels, and clothing, all fell into our hands. Our
casualties were chiefly among the horses. Captain
Harris, Bombay Horse Artillery, was the only officer
wounded. He was shot through the arm from behind
a bush, in some jungle. There would, doubtless,
have been many more casualties, but the matchlock-
raen had no time to light their matches ; consequently,
the only shots were those fired from sepoy muskets.
Two Enfield rifles were picked up, marked Grena-
dier Company, 88th Regiment, and between fifty
and sixty prisoners were taken. We heard the next
day that Runjeet Sing, Maun Sing's uncle, was among
ihe alain.

Some circumstances that came iindcr nay notice
were very distressing. A man shot in the head, and
\\sho was bleeding profusely from his wound, was
tended by his litile daughter, apparently about twelve
years old, who held up her hands imploring mercy
nnd pity as we passed. Nor was I the only one who
tried to re-assure and comfort her. One of our
servant^ when he joined us later in the day, brought
with him a little boy, about seven years old, whom
he found standing by his dead father, who had been

232 CAMPAIGNING EXPEDIENCES.

shot and had fallen from his horse. The dead man,
the child and horse were in a group, and our servant
charitably took the child and placing him before him
on his own horse, brought him into camp. I became
possessed too of a small white dog, which; together
with a baby of six or seven months old, was found
lying on a bed, from whence the mother, frenzied, I
suppose, by terror, had fled, and left her child behind !
The little one was sitting up and laughing, pleased at
the horses and soldiers as they passed. This child
was also brought on and given to the care of a
woman in our camp, and the little dog was sent to
me. I was told of a woman who, in the action of
Beejapore, was endeavouring to escape with her
child, but in the agony of fear she clasped it so
closely to her side, that in her passionate efforts to
save its life, she had squeezed it to death, and was
still flying with it hanging over her arm, and pressed
as closely as ever, but dead and cold. We halted
for one day after the fight at Koondryc, where nine
of the prisoners were shot before marching on the
16fli towards Mongroulee, which we reached on tjie
18th. It seems to me -that all this Indian warfare
is unsatisfactory work, and although it may be true
that in this rebellion severity is mercy, yet, on the
other hand, there have been cases of ruthless
slaughter, of which perhaps the less said the better.

We heard on the 16th that Tantia Topee had sent
from the other side of the Nerbudda to know on what

SU3TEBINGS OF THE WOUNDED. 223

terms, under the Queen's Proclamation, lie could
give liimself up. He "was then making his way to
Poona, near Bombay. It seems that his race, as
well as that of Maun Sing, is nearly run, and with
them will probably end all die disturbances south of
Oude. A ridiculous report that Amba-Paniwallah,
who is supposed to be at Serai with 4,000 men, has
sent to challenge Brigadier Smith to single combat,
has obtained circulation in our camp, and caused great
excitement amongst the men. We remained three
days at Mongroulec, as a halt was most urgently
needed. Not only were there seventy horses of the
troop of Horse Artillery unfit for work, but we were
carrying about with us the men wounded in this
.iction of Koondrye, and also Lieutenant Harding,
dangerously wounded at Sindwaha. Persons who
arc not actually in the position of the sufferer little
know what a man, weakened by pain, loss of blood,
und want of sleep, endures who, besides being ex-
posed to all the unavoidable noises of the camp, is
shaken up in a doolcy for several hours every day.

.The state of Lieutenant Harding was at this time
most critical, as the wound, inflicted nearly a month
before, began to bleed afresh. It was impossible to
leave the sick in any place of safety, and as the
brigade was so short of medical officers, it was
equally impossible to send them away to cantonments
at Saugor under medical escort
Letters from Colonel Lockhart give information

CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

of the rebels being at Bersea, not far from Bhilsa,
but local intelligence reports them as imicli nearer.
A body of men are said to be between Gnrali and
Seronge, but I fancy they exist only in the imagina-
tion of the Nawab of Tonk, who is anxious for the
presence of European troops near Seronge in order
to assist him in getting in his revenue. A few bun-
dealahs and others are still collected at Jacklown, but
Maun Sing, after his flight from our brigade,, imme-
diately retired to Pardonc, where he is living quietl}-
in his own territory.

Tantia Topee has, after all, managed to elude his
vigorous pursuer, General Michel, and also the troops
and columns on the other side of the Nerbudda, and
is reported to have doubled back towards the north.
It is also said that he has detained the Rajah of
Bandah a close prisoner in his camp, to prevent his
surrendering himself* on the faith of the promised
amnesty, as Madeo Sing and Beni-Madeo, two chiefs
in Oude, have already done.

On the evening of the 24th of November, Lieu-
tenant Harding died from the effects of his wouud.
The internal bleeding of an artery, injured by the
bullet, could not be stopped without an operation,
beneath which he must have sunk. He was reve-
rently interred, beneath some wide-spreading trees,
at our encampment of Deepna Kaira, nearly every
officer of the Brigade being present at the funeral.
* lie soon after surrendered.

PROSPECT OF REST. 235

When, on the day but one following, we left the
place, the tree above him bore an admirably carved
inscription to his memory, stating name, age, date,
and cause of death.

On the 26th November, we moved on to Seronge,
intending to halt for a few days, as so many repairs
of tents, saddlery, gun-carriages, &c. a were abso-
lutely necessary. Colonel Scudamore, with a small
field force, occupies our vacated ground at Mon-
groidee, in order to check any predatory incursions
on that village. We rode over to see his camp, and
in this land of wilderness and jungle, it seemed to us
a positive blessing to see the fresh English, faces of
the 14th Light Dragoons and the 86th Regiment.

When we arrived at Seronge, a rumour reached
ns, tlrrough the medium of the dak, that Brigadier
Smith's column had come under the merciful con-
sideration of the authorities. That the lengthened
and unprecedented period during which it has been
serving in the field, and the wear atid tear of eleven
months' unceasing work, on men, horses, and camp
<^mpagc, lias induced the Cominander-in-Chief to
order the troops composing it to be relieved from
active service, until such time as they shall be ren-
dered thoroughly efficient by rest and reinforcement^
or until it becomes again their turn to take the places
of the relieving regiments in the field.

On the 10th of December, whilst the Brigade was
baiting at Beora, we heard that the Nana had crossed

236 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

the Ganges, and, in company with Feroze Shah, was
bearing down upon Bnndelcimd. Beora is a tele-
graphic station on the Great Trank Road; and as we
halted there for a week. Captain Shakespear, the
political agent, who had lately accompanied the Bri-
gade, was in constant and easy communication with
Sir Robert Hamilton at Indore. We, therefore, re-
ceived early intimation that the report wanted official
confirmation. When it first reached us, it effectually
scattered our visions of Neemuch, to which place we
had a few days before received a telegraphic order
from General Michel that -three squadrons of the 8th
Hussars should proceed, -the fourth squadron going to
Nusserabad. I sincerely hope it will not be our lot
to be stationed at the latter place, of which an officer,
writing a short time ago, says : " I trust it may never
be your fate to be stationed here. It is, of all places,
the most disagreeable. There is no drinkable water
nearer than a mile, and no gardens or anything else
to make life pleasant. We suffer torments from the
mosquitoes, of which there are two sorts one, a small
lively kind, with curly legs, that flies about by day ;
the other, a large black fiend, which comes prowling
out at night" Still it will be something to have " a
f local habitation," which is not taken to pieces and set
up again every day.

It is certain that a body of rebels has escaped from
Oude ; and, in consequence, the Brigadier marched
from Beora to Seronge, on the 12th December, in

TASTLV'S TACTICS. 237

or<ler to cover Bhilsa and Bhopal. We arrived at
Seronge on the 16th, and soon after learnt that Sir
Robert Napier had been in pursuit of a party of rebels
from Gwalior, but had not succeeded in coining up
with them.

"We now begin to understand the object of Tantiu
Topee's erratic marches. He has evidently been en-
deavouring, by the rapidity of his transits from place
to place, to draw away or separate the British forces,
so that a passage might be left open for the Nana,
should he be able to escape from Oude, and desire to
make an attempt to raise Ids standard in the south
amongst the Mahrattas. The fate of Tantia appears to
be sealed: his gallant course must be nearly run;
and however we may abhor the crimes which he has
committed, we cannot refuse our respect to his good
generalship and brilliant talents. The chances are
that, findihg all attempts at further resistance vain,
he will retire to some holy place, and, changing his
name and dress, will seek safety in obscurity. In
General Michel he met with an antagonist as in-
defatigable as himself. No march appeared too long
or too difficult for tins division of our army : nor is it
out of place to observe that the portion of Smith's
Brigade which accompanied the Major-General across
the Betwa had, on itrf return, accomplished a distance
of more than 2,600 miles within twelve months.
And a squadron of the 8th Hussars, which is still
away far below Mliow, under the command of Major

238 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

Chetwode, lias marched even a greater distance than
this.

We have just heard of the death of Brigadier-
General John Jacob, who expired, after a short ill-
ness, of fever, at Jacobabad, on the 6th of December.
He is universally regretted as a valuable officer and
an eminently practical man; and it is those who
knew him best "who mourn for him most deeply.

The Queen's most merciful Proclamation, which
does credit to the head and heart of Lord Stanley, or
whoever dictated its gracious words, although it in
believed in and accepted by some, is received by
others with contemptuous incredulity or with open
defiance.

The Bombay Standard says " The rebels in BUIJ-
deicund appear cursed with a disbelief of virtue in
human nature, and cannot conceive such a forgiving
spirit as our gracious Queen breathes in her amnesty
to her rebellious subjects. Des Put, the leader here-
abouts (Srinuggur), on receiving the Proclamation,
deliberately put it into Ins pipe and smoked it, by
which he set fire to his own beard, as my respected
friend of the secret intelligence department observed.
But worse occurred at the village of Kool-pahar,
luider the joint noses of the General, two civilians,
and a deputy. Eight men-at-arms proceeded thither
to read her Majesty's Proclamation; the rebels slew
seven out of the eight, and tibe other they most fear-
fully wounded. Such wa*s the bloody answer these

QUEEN'S PROCLAMATION. 239

monsters deigned to give ; and these are Hindoos
gentle Hindoos the mild Hindoo with whose morals
Mr. Layard declares we have played the deuce."

As far as the last line goes, I, to a certain extent,
miLst agree with the gentleman whose uame is quoted ;
but tlie Englishmen in India are not all evil, if they
arc not all good; and we must hope that the new
administration will encourage and strengthen all that
is good, and set Its face against the evil.

On the afternoon of Monday the 20th of December,
some Luncers came into camp and reported that a,
party consisting of sepoys with remount horses, stores,
spare camels, kit, &c., under command of Lieutenant
Stack, 1st Bombay Lancers, had been attacked by u,
body of rebels, and that fifty camels and a consider-
able part of the kit had fallen into their hands. Those
men were reported to number 2,000 or 3,000, and to
be encamped about twenty-five miles to the north-
west of us.

Brigadier Smith determined on starting imme-
diately to punish them; and as soon as the camels,
\\hich were grazing in the jungle, could be recalled,
the whole brigade moved, al eight p. M-, to march all
night. I low cold it. was! Those who were mounted
f<juT\d it impossible to keep themselves wanu, and as
fiix a$ comfort was concerned, the infantry had much
the best of it About six o'clock the following morn-
ing we halted at a village, and on making inquiries
as to the oxuct spot where we hoped to surprise the

240 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

enemy's camp, we learnt to our mortification that
they had left on the previous Saturday evening, and
were marching west 1 As they had two days 5 start
and were all mounted, it was useless to attempt a
pursuit, our infantry "being already exhausted and
fuotsore with a ten hours' march.

On our return to Seronge, we learnt that Captain
Rice, at Hie head of a very small body of men, partly
European and partly native, had succeeded in coming
up with these same rebels from his camp at Aronc, and
had recaptured our looted camels, besides taking the
enemy's camp equipage. Central India seems abso-
lutely infested with fresh insurgent forces escaped
from Oude. Whether the object is still to eftect a
junction with Tantia Topee, or not, we cannot at
present tell ; but we hear of rebels congregating on
all sides of us. As General Michel is expected to
move out from Mhow to Beora, we have sent out a
party to Bhilsa. How much longer this desultory
police warfare may be earned on, no ono can at this
moment conjecture. We returned to Scronge on the
23rd of December, but the brilliant weather and our
unsettled movements destroyed all the peace and
happiness of holy Christmas-tide.

From Bursad we continued our route, and after
two long and fatiguing days we arrived at Chuppra.
It was on the 1st of May, 1858, that we reached it
for the first time, and on the 1st of January, 1859,
about four o'clock in the evening, prostrated with

SUFFERINGS OF THE TENTH . I. 241

+

fatigue, we again sought a temporary shelter beneath
its walls* Our march had been an unusually dis-
tressing one, as -the Brigadier having received infor-
mation that Feroze Shall was in the neighbourhood
with a large force, was* anxious to lose no time. The
worn-out baggage animals refused to answer to this
call upon their exhausted strength, consequently
those of the 10th Native Infantry were two days
behind, and for those two days the unfortunates of
that regiment went without food, performing on the
first day fourteen, and on the second day twenty-two
miles. Fortunately we found Chuppra well supplied
and hospitable, but the news which greeted us was
little calculated to allow of halting. Tantia Topee
had that morning been encamped only four cos
(eight miles) from Chuppra, and Colonel Somerset at
the head of a squadron of cavalry, four guns, and
180 Europeans mounted on camels, had come across
the rear guard of his army, without doing them
much damage. This interruption had, however, the
effect of making the enemy hasten beyond our reach ;
and it was agreed at a council of war that the only
plan remaining for us was to hasten with all speed
towards Pooree, to which place they were supposed
to be doubling back.

The Brigadier, in consequence of a communication
from Sir R. Napier, changed his course ; and in order
to strike into the Trunk Road at Budderwas, near
Sepree, marched the next morning 'on Shikarpoor,

242 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

and the following day reached Futtyghur. Here the
clouds which had been gathering for some days came
down upon us in copious showers of rain, accompa-
nied by continuous thunder and lightning, effectually
stopping our movements. So far as I was personally
concerned I was not sorry, for the axle of our bullock
gharry had broken ten miles on the other side of
Ghuppra, and the contents my pet hare, dressing-
case, little white dog, and sundry other valuables
were left on the road. Some invalid Hussars follow-
ing in a cart recognised the little dog and brought it
on ; but I was greatly afraid lest the budmashes, or
hangers-on of the rebel army, would find the wreck,
iind, after having looted the cart and walked off with
the bullocks, would proceed to murder the driver.
We were greatly indebted to the kindness of Captain
Shakespear, who put himself in communication with
the Resildar about it ; and by his orders the cart was
conveyed to Chuppra, and there left to be repaired.
We sent one of our servants back on horseback to
Chuppra to bring on the contents of the gharry in a
native cart, and he did not catch us up for three
days, causing tis great anxiety as to what had be-
fallen him; but he eventually appeared at Futfcyghur,
bringing the little hare uninjured, and the dressing-
case, with its contents untouched. The same good
luck did not attend one of my husband's brother
officers, whose cart, containing all his stores beer,
wine, and a good deal of kit none of which he will

AN HO UK TOO LATE. 243

ever see again broke clown on the other side of
Bursad. Another told me he believed his cart had
been going on the spokes of one wheel for a week, as
it had lost the felloes. Some tilings are irresistibly
funny, although bitterly vexatious.

On the evening of the 5th we were aroused from
sleep at eleven o'clock, and started soon after twelve.
We marched by an exceedingly rough and bad road,
over three or four rocky nullahs full of water, to
Kailwarra, and about three miles from that place
came upon horses' hoof-tracks, and several dead
bodies, affording unmistakeable evidence of the pre-
sence of budmashes. The information of the spies led
the Brigadier to believe that they were still actually
encamped at the village below us, and he formed up
his brigade in consequence, bringing infantry and
cavalry to the front, leaving the guns in reserve until
required. The hope, however, proved a fallacious
one ; the enemy had left about an hour previously,
and were rapidly in flight. I believe they gained
information of our movements from the head man
at Naharghur, wlio had proved himself a suspicious
character before. As it was, we could not pursue
with infantry after so long a march, and the Briga-
dier determined on letting the men rest that day.
We accordingly pitched our camp, and on the next
day we tracked the enemy about sixteen miles
further. At the village where we halted several
horses were found, which had been left behind in

R 2

244 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

the Lurry of flight; tliey were fine animals, but all
excessively sore-backed, and in very low condition.

On the 8th the Brigadier learnt that Brigadier
Showers was moving down from Agra to Jeypoor,
-which movement, if we progressed steadily in his
rear, might cause Tantia to he headed Lack and so to
fall into our hands. It would be a proud thing, if,
after all, Tantia should be taken by this indefatigable
brigade.

On the 9th and 10th we still followed the foot-
prints, and on the latter clay the brigade crossed the
wide and deep ford of the Kiver ChurabuL I watched
a portion of the brigade crossing before me, in order
to see which was tlie shallowest part, but as I saw
several horses disappear in holes and deep water, and
a gun carriage go in over the wheels, I very grate*-
fully accepted the offer of a seat on Captain Shake-
spear's elephant, winch carried over a party of five
with great unconcern; causing, as he ploughed
through the deep water with his enormous legs,
almost as much noise as is made by the rush of water
under the stern of a ship. At the village where TCC
halted we were told that the enemy had on the pre-
vious day but one looted all their camels, doubtless a
valuable addition to their carriage. This part of Raj-
pootana is a great camel-breeding country, especially
among tibe Boondee hills, where we now are. On the
llth of January we were only about twenty miles
from Kotah, and seventy-seven from Nusserabad;

THIEVES IN CAMP. 245

thus we have come round to the same point at which
we were tins time last year. I imagine the Rajah
of Kotali knows better than to admit the rebel army
a second time inside his walls. The rich pastures of
Bajpootana contrast very pleasantly with the sterile
country we have left. The numerous and wealthy
villages are picturesquely situated, each on the
borders of a large tank, abounding with wild-fowl.
As we pass them before daylight they rise with ti
noise resembling the whirr of machinery, and wheel
high in the air over our heads. Vast fields of wheat
stretch to the wide horizon, and give a cheerful
aspect to the plains.

A gang of thieves have been busy in our camp.
They robbed the Brigadier of his helmet, all over
feathers and gold, and then tried the tent of the
Quartermaster-General. He had a light burning,
;md seeing the man's hand feeling under the wall
of his tent, made a thrust at him with a sword, & la
Hamlet, but missed Mm. The thief then came to
onr tent; but my small dog, sharp as a needle,
\voke me when the man was within a foot of me,
jind I could have cut off his hand with my Bhooj
dagger. He afterwards ripped open another part
of the wall of the tent with a knife, and took out a
portmanteau, containing my husband's office papers.
Disgusted at finding nothing of value, he scattered
them all about, and walked off with three bottles
of English ink. There were fifteen servants sleep-

246 CAMPAIGNING EXPERIENCES.

ing round the tent, and a corporal and six men on
guard at the time.

I must now, for the present at any rate, bid adieu
to my readers ; but I cannot conclude \vithout
expressing my gratitude to that good Providence
which has brought us thus far safely, when so
many have fallen round us, the victims either of
accident or disease. Animated with this feeling,
I close the record of our first year's Field Ser-
vice in India, wherein that part of the Brigade,
which was accompanied by my husband and myself,
passed only one European station, Deesa, and
marched in spite of Indian sun and Indian rain, and
in the toilsome pursuit of an ever flying foe, a
distance of 2,028 miles, more than 1,800 of which I
have myself accomplished on horseback.

APPENDIX,

ROUTE of H. MSs 8th K. R. I. Hussars from Mandavee,
in Cuteh, to join the Rajpootana Field Force, and
thence under command of BEIO-ADIEU SMITH in pursuit
of the rebels.

Date.

Name of Place.

Distance

Remarks.

M 1

1858,

Mandavee to

m.i

Bara-Assumbia

11 4

2
3

Maigpoor
Bliooj

12 7
12 3

Halted to procure fall complement

of horses.

11

Dhramytee ...

16 4

12

Dodye

14

13

Coombarree ..

9 4

14

Chowbarree

14 4

15

Halted one day.

16

Jeesra

13 3

W

Geree

16 4

18

Mooriiua

12 3

Between Moorania and Powar we

crossed the runn of dutch.

19

Fowar

15 4

20

Halted one day.

21

Babra , . ..

9 7

22

Warye

13 2

23

Badhinpoor ..

12 7

24

Halted one day to change caxriagc.

25

Ooun

13 1

26

Oundra

15 4

27

Sommee

12 7

28

Deesa

18 5

Halted four days for instructions.

250

APPENDIX.

Date

Name of Place

Distance

Remarks.

*

M F

Mar. 4

Koacha-warra .

16 4

5

Muddar .

10 6

6

Reodur . . ..

12

7

Anadara . . .

10 1

8

Maira

12

9

Serohee . . .

15 3

10

Halted one day.

11

Palree

10 2

12

Ennpoora

13 1

13

Bailee

18

14

Gomerao

20 1

15

Somuiair

9 2

Between Sommair and Jeelwarra

we ascended the Chutterbhooj

ghaut.

16

Jeelwarra

11

17

Amiatti

25

18

Halted one day.

19

Lowa

6

20

Gangapoor

20

21

Gorlam

15 2

22

Bheelwarra

16

23

Halted one day.

24

Mowa

12

25

Shahpoora

12

26

Jeetora ... ..

13

27

Jehazpoor

14

28

Thanna

11 4

Nonnegan

8 2

29

Boondee

10 4

Jalnah

10 6

KotaU

12

Arrived before Kotah V30 A M , on

Apr, 19
20

Jugpoora .. . .
Hunouti'a

10
8 2

Tuesday, March 30.
And remained in camp after the
taking of Kotah until April 19.

21

Ahxnedpoora ...

12

22

Kyzabad

10

23

Mukuudra

12

24

Bheeborra

15

25

JubraPattun...

12 1

26

Usawarra

16

27
28

Bunniagow ...

14

Halted one day.

29

Sathul

10

30

Berodi

18

APPENDIX.

251

Date.

Name of Place.

Di&tance

Remarks.

M F

Mayl

Chuppra .. ..

10

Halted to receive instructions from

Sir H. Rose. The strength of

the Brigade atthistime amounted,

including 74 officers, to 1,927 ,

men

5

Shikarpoor ...

12

6

Narghur . ...

Greater part of the Brigade made

a forced march to JSarghur

9

Futtyghur

15

Where the whole force re-united.

10

Purwahi

9

11

Jaighur . ..

5

13

Goonah ., . .

13

Halted for instructions.

21

Pimagutti

12

22

Shahdowra

13

23

Pulhar . ...

7

Spelt in map Puchore

24

Jharee . ...

12

25

Khorwassan ...

3

26

Chandareo . . .

9

A strongly fortified place, which

was abandoned by the icbels on

our approach

June 1

Mahouh

10

2

Esaughur . ...

16

3

Koosnaweir ..

7

4

Pachouli .. ..

15

5

Kollariss .. ..

7

6

Sepree . . ..

14

Halted for four days.

10

Suttonwarra ..

12

11

Chokeyra

12 4

12

Mahom

12

13

Arona ..

10

14

Halted to allow reinforcements

from Jhansi to come up, under

*

Colonels Orr and Hicks.

15

Antree

9

16

K6tah-ke-Serai

9

17

Brigadier Smith's Brigade in action
all day with Gwalior rebels

18

19

Brigadier Smith's Brigade in action

all the afternoon, joined by Sir

Hugh Rose.

24

Shift ground nearer to Gwalior.

July 3

Rabat . ...

12

4

Mohona

7

Where my little Hare was picked up.

252

APPENDIX.

Date

Name of Place.

Distance

Remarks.

M F

July 5

Chooselkaira ...

Jl

6

Suttonwarra ..

12

7

Sepree . . ..

9

The Brigade halted on account of

the monsoon, till the joads be-

came practicable, but on receipt

of intelligence the greater part

of the force moved out with

great difficulty on Aug 5.

Aug 5

Jheerie

11

6

Powrie

7

Here they remained until joined by

Sir R. Napier, and until the

evacuation of the fort by Maun

Sing.

Sept. 3

Syssee ..

6

The whole Brigade marched to

QTroQpp

15

Lukwassa

14

tojoscc.

Detained by rams.

18

Budderwas ...

8

19

Meanah . ..

11

21

Goon ah . ,.

17

Waited for orders.

25

Bliadore . ...

H

Detained by heavy rains.

29

Amoda . .

3

Comet first visible.

30

Burkaira

9

Oct. 1

Goonah

17

2

Punekaira

12

3

Nya Serai

12

4

Gatroiiba ..

5

Esaugliur

14

Halted to receive instructions from

General Michel, and co-operate

with him. The rebels abandoned

Esaughur on our approach.

10

Mahouli .. ..

16

11

Monone ..

H

12

Serai

12

13

Joined General Michel's force, and

halted to try the possibility of

crossing the ford, which proved

too deep for infantry or baggage

carts.

14

Rhait Ghaut .

H

15

Seraa ... .

14

16

Narone

8

17

Chandaree

3

18

Pahranpore ...

4

*i

APPENDIX.

253

Date.

Name of Place

)istance

Remarks.

St. F

Oct. 23

Serai

16

These forced marches of forty-six

miles were performed by the

Brigade, now formed principally

tagroulee ...

10

of infantry, m fort} -two hours.

24

Shorassa . . . .

20

30

Vlalighur

12

31

Nov I

Vtoundlah

7

2

Taal

11

4

Seronge

11

5

DeepnaKaira...

14

6

7

Bahadoorpoor ..

11

8

9
13

Gadoulie
Bukeira

4
14

Were rejoined by cavalry detached
away under General Michel.

14

Rajhpoor . ..

9

15

Attakama

12

16

17

Tamasah

10

18

Mongrouloe ...

10

22

Oudairah .. ..

13

23

DeepnaKaira ..

10

Halted two days and buried Lieut.
Harding.

26

Seronge

15

Dec. 1

Moondra

17

fj

Mucksudnugger

17

3

Suttiria

10

4

Bcora ... ,

15

12

Settewa ... .

14

L3

Barode . . .

10

14

Sutherie .. .

11

15

Roosii ... ,

10

16

Seronge ... .

10

21

Kalapoorali

20

22

Kutchekaira ..

5

23

Seronge ... .

14

27

Kutchekaira ..

15

28

9

29

Bursad

12

31

Bussawarra ..

18

1859.

Jan. 1

CJhuppra .. ..

24

254

APPENDIX.

Date.

Name of place.

Distance

Eemarks.

3f F

Jan. 2

Sliegarpoor

10

3

Futtyghur

15

5

!Naharghur

12

6

Kailwarra

15

i

Relawur ...

15

S

Mungrole .

14

9

Etayah .. , .

19

10

Kaira

30

11

Indergliur

14

12

Onearah . .

15

Making 2,028 miles since Eeb Isi

j 1858.

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CRAWFURD'S GRAMMAR AND
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LECTURES ON THE ENGLISH
HUMOURISTS OF THE 18TH
CENTURY. ByW.M.THACKERAY,
Author of " Vanity Fair," "The
Virginians," &c. Price 2s. 6<Z. cl.

"Whatfli
eloquent a.

earnest wrl , a

of humour ; with what a touching efi

graver pr * '--- -'

comes OL., .

painted, as it were, in graphic and

latflne things t:
int aud sufflle
it writing ; how

these lectures contain; what

e sayings; what wise and

how delightful are their turns

"The lectures are a valuable addition to our
permanent literature : eloquent when the author
is serious;: brilliant when he is gay -they are
charming reading." -Doity News.

felicitous phrases, the striking anecdotes, the
passages of wise, practical reaction; all these
lose much less than we could have expected from
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lecturer." spectator.

"We have been charmed beyond expectation
with the reading of these Essays. . . . They
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humorous,]

THE TOWNs ITS MEMORABLE
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LEIGH HTINT. With 45 Engravings.
Price 2s. 6#. cloth.

r enjoyment for a
to stroll leisurely

"every'iiThabitant'of
"-fames.

_ . ., all places and all

persons : for the study, wJien one is tired of
labour j for the drawiiig-roijm, parlour, carriage,
or stoftm-boat."-^oeciaioj'.

representing scenes in which evi

the metropolis has an iuterest."-

" ' The Town ' is a book for a

"This is one of the very pleasantest works of
Leigh Hunt. We are never out of sight of sove-
reigns or subjects, notable buildings , and the
builders thereof, booksellers and bookmakers,
PlmM<Lpla$ws, men about jbown^and^the

reigns or subjects, notable buildings , and the
WffZj?^

_.-ints where they dra ..

one another's vritf'Atkeiueum.

THE POLITICAL ECONOMY OF
ART. By JOHN EUSKJN, M.A.
Price 2s. 6d. cloth.

and well-timed work.

Wehalitwithsatis^tionrthinkingitealculated
to do much practical good, and wo cordially recom-
mend it to our readers." Wttnes*.

"Mr. Buskin's chief purpose is to treat the
artist's power, and the art itself, as items of the
yM> wM^*9d *S *? .how; these maybe

, accumulated, and

ig as it it,

-~!ne are among the ar

, others are evolving a;

to theligliV-isatZer.

BRITISH INDIA. By HARRIET

MARODINEAIC:. Price 2s. 6d. cloth,

"A good compendium of a great subjeot."-

" Lucid, glowing, and instructive essays."

B? 'Afl Sandbook to the history of India it is the
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"WORKS ^PUBLISHED BY

CHEAP SEEIES OP POPULAR FICTIONS.

Well printed, in large Type, on good Paper, and strongly bound in cloth.

JANE EYRE. By CUBSEB BELL.
Price 2s. 6d. cloth.

"'Jane Eyre* is a remarkable production.
Freshness and originality, truth an>l passion,
singular felicity in the description of n-itm-al
scenery and m the analj zati on or human thought,
enable this tale to si and boldly out from the mass
and to assume its own place in the bright field of
romantic literature " Times.

" ' Jane Eyre ' is a book of decided power. The
thoughts are true, sound, and original: and the

purpose. The object ana moral of the work are

"A very pathetic tale: very singular, and so
like truth timt it is difficult to avoid believing
that much of the charactei s and incidents are
taken from life. It is an episode in this work-a-
day world, most interesting, and touched at once
with a daring and delicate nand. It is a book for
the enjoyment of a feeling heart and vigorous
understanding." SlacJcnood's Magazine.

" Tor many years there has been no work of
snch. power, piquancy, and originality. Its very
faults are on tne side ot viaour, and its beauties
are all original. It is a book of singular fascina-
tion," ^mnbwrgh Review.

" Almost all that we require in a novelist the
writer has; perception of character and power
of delineating it; pictures quen ess, passion, and

Eraser's Mayazine.

SHIRLEY. By CUEBEE BELL. Price
2s. 6d, cloth.

book. It possessen deep interest, and an irre-
sistible grasp of reality. There is a vividness and

sistible grast

distinctness of conception"in"it ,.
The power of graphic delineation
is intense. There are scenes whi(
and delicacy of emotion, are not
the range o "

5 range o]

"Shirley' is an admirable book; 1
from cant, affectation, or cor- 1 -

-- *. - ne English ii

i of the t(

the delineation of character. ,

vigorous touches, the picture starts into distinct-
ness."^ Edinburgh Review.

" ' Shirley' is very clever. It could not be other-
wise.. The faculty oJ graphic description, strong
on, fervid and masculine diction, ana-
, all are visible, . . . Gems of rare
* ' passion shine here and

" 'Shirley' is a book demanding close perusal
and careful consideration."-.** Aentewn.

, - the anatomy of the female heart.

It Is n, book which indicates exquisite feeling, and

very great power of mind in the writer. The

women are all Cuvuie." Etotoy News,

18

VILLETTE. By CUEREK BELL. Price
2$. Bd. cloth.

t remarkable work-a pro-
i ffenena. Fulness and
k almost every sentence,

on or easy J - - ""

le narrntne such as w ,

iwburfth Review

This novel amply sustains the fame of the
author of ' Jane Eyre ' a ml ' Shirley ' as an original
and powerful winter. ' Villette ' is a most a^'mi-
"ily written novel, everywhere original, every
ere shrewd." Examiner.
There is throughout a charm of freshness
which is infinitely delightful: freshness in obser-
vation, freshness in feeling, freshness in expres-
sion." Literary Gazette,
" The tale is (.ne of the affections, and remark-
ble as a picture of mannei s A burning heart
lows throughout, it, and one brilliantly distinct
mraoter Keeps it nlive." AtJiei-eeum.
" ' Villette ' is crowded with beauties, with good
lings, for which we look to the clear sight, deep
.jeling, and singular though not extensive expe-
rience of life, which we associate with the name
of Currer Bell 'Daily News.

" ' Villette' is entitled to take a very nigh mace
' the literature of fiction The reader will find
, ftracter nicely conceived and powerfully de-
picted: he will dincover much quiet humour, a
lively wit, brilliant dialogue, vivid descripti ms,
" tians both new and true, sentiment free
cant and conventionality, and bursts of elo-
e and poetry, flashing here and there."

. genius dwells in this book,
Igment, superior fro any of

r s efforts. I'or originality of

conception, grasp of character, elaboration and
consistency of detail, and picturesque force of
expression, few works in the English language
can stand, the test of comparison withit." Jaforw-
ina Post.

WUTHERING HEIGHTS AND
AGNES GREY, By ELLIS and
ACTON BELL. Witli Memoir by
Currer Bell. Price 2s. 6d. cloth.

.ith each other. There IB n. touch oj

ratorHosain oil." Atlas.
" ' Winhering Heights' bears the t
rofoundly individual, strong, and :

_iind. The memoir is one oftli

chapters in literary biography."-

A LOST LOVE. ByAsnpORD OWBN.
Price 2s. cloth.

*"A Lost Love' is a story full of grace and
genius. No outline of the story would give any
idea of its beauty." Athentsum.

"A tale at once moving and winning, natural
and romantic, and certain to mine all the nner
sympathies of the i cader's nature,"- Press.

" A real picture of woman's life." Wexhninster

"A very beautiful and touching story. It la
true to nature, and apponls to all who have not
forgotten love and youth." Ofobf.

" A novel of great genius ; beautiful and true as
life itself."-ATeio Quarterly Review.

"A striking and original story; a woik of
genius, and sensibility." .-\atvrdau /frfw.

and that of a hiith ^^.''Sadv^N^wtLa^*

SMITH, ELDER AJNTD CO.

CHEAP SERIES OF POPULAR FICTIONS

Continued.

DEERBROOK. By HARRIET
MA.BTINEAU. Price 2s. 6d. cloth.

fiction presents a true and am-
of country life among the upper
of .English residents, and is re-
its interest, arising from tlie
vanous characters upon each other,
--it of ordinary circumstances upon
' itions of rural sconery, and the

TALES OF THE COLONIES.

By CHARGES KOWCHOPT. Price
2*. 6d. cloth,

" 'Tales of the Colonies ' is an able and interest-
ing book. The author has the iivat great requisite
in liotion-a knowledge or the Jife he undertakes
to describe; and his matter is solid and real."

"It combines the fidelity of truth with the
spirit of a romance, and has altogether much of
De FOB in its character and composition."
Literary Gazette.

> the time of Itoblnson Crusoe, literature

-- like these 'Tides of the

"Uyazine.

ianagfed"oir

,n ...

PAUL FERROLL. Fourth edition,
price 2*. cloth.

" We have seldom rend so wonderful a romance,
'e can find no fault in it as a work of art. It
.aves us in admiration, almost iti awe, of the
powers of its author "New Quarterly.
" The art displayed in presenting Paul Perroll
ihrou^hout the story is beyond all praise."

"The'iucjdents of the book are extremely well

it will be very much

lied at." Globe.

' The fruit of much thoughtful investigation is
ited to us in the character of Paul

JMSITOU We do not need to he told how

:ie felt and why he acted thus and thus ; it will
be obvious to most minds from the very opening
. But the power of the story is not weak-
by this early knowledge: rather is it
heightened, since the artlntic force of contrast is

original

rnTiteroture-a~book' tbTiit"must "be" "read, <
cannot be f 01 gotten." M^rnwy Post.
"To all the elements of powerful effect, the
" adds the merit of being ably auo. forcibly

, J?e.Toir is an original conception
out with marvellous skid and i '

worko;

'mil Perroll' is
generation that will b

SCHOOL FOR FATHERS.

By TALBOT GWYNNE. Price 2$. cl.

: The School for Fathers ' is one of the cleverest,
most brilliant, genial, ana instructive stories that
we have read since the publication of ' Jane

ROMANTIC TALES (including
"Avillion"). By the Author ot
"John Halifax, Gentleman." A
new edition. Price 2s. d. cloth.

" In a nice knowledge of the refinements of the

aale heart, and in a happy power of depicting
_ lotion, the authoress is excelled by very few
story tellers of the boy. "-Globe.

" AS pleasant and fanciful a miscellany as has
been idven to the public in these latter days."-

" ' Avilhon' is a beautiful and fanciful story
and the rest make very a^re^able reauiug. There
is not one < f thorn unqutckenud b.v true fooling

ulaito taste, and a pure aiid vivid imai;iua-

i," Examiner.

if the iMler aud Spe.

.jt, unaffected manner of writing, audnioely-
managed, well-turned narrative. The descriptions
are excellent, some of the couutry painting is as
fresh as a landscape by AUred Countable, or an
idyl by Tennyson." Examiner.
"'A, cap.tal picture of town and coun

raciest, and most artistic piece . -...
' ttely como iu our w iy " zVoneojybrfaMi,.
"Ifne school for Fathers' is at once highly
and deeply interesting full of that

.umour wmoh is halfpachos-and written

a freshness of feeling and raolnessof style

which entitle it to be called a tale of the Vicar of
WakeiioliT Bohoul,"-.tfm<MW

,i.

"A hide, hearty, unaffected, Honest, d
English tale. A viorous paiaUng of
men nud manners, by an artist who is tho
national iniis genius, taste, education,

illustratinsr our town an4
a hundred yuars ao."-JSfH*MA

PREPARING FOR PUBLICATION.

DOMESTiC STORiES.

KATHIE BRANDE. By HOLME LBB.

AFTER DARK. By Witaxw COLLINS.

PUBLISHED

NEW NOVELS.

(TO BE HAD AT ALL LIBRARIES.)

COUSIN STELLA; OR, CONFLICT.
By the Author of " Violet Bank."
3 vols. (Now ready.')

CONFIDENCES. By the Author of
" Rita." (Now ready.}

TRUST FOR TRUST. By

A. J. BARROWCLIFFE, Author of
" Amherhill." 3 vols.

"The story is admirably developed. Tneinterest
never flags, the incidents are natural without
being commonplace, and the men and woman talk

e human buings."-Pras.

ldom we find, even in this great age of

and act
" It is

" It is

,

ng, so much that is pla.isant ana so
ect to as in ' Trust for Trust.' It con-
. original thought and fresh humour."

ELLEN RAYMOND; OB, UPS A.KD
DOTTNS. By Mrs. YIDAL, Author
of "Tales for the Bush," &c.
3 vols.

" The plot is wrought out with wonderful Inge-
nuity, and the different characters are sustained
in perfect keeping to the end." JWtwtrafaJ News

" The characters are good, the style pure, cor-
rect, brisk, and easy ."-Awt.

LOST AND WON. By GEORGTANA
M. CRAXX, Author of " Biverston."
1 vol. 2nd Edition.

AN OLD DEBT. By

DAWSON. 2 vols.

FLORENCE

el; one of the best
ed from a female
> is vigorous and

SYLVAN HOLT'S DAUGHTER.

By HOLME LEE, Author of " Kathie
Brande," &c. 2nd edition. 3 vols.
"The well-established reputation of
n, novel writer, will receive an ad
rom the publication of 'Sylvan
' It is a charming tale or country
"

MY LADY: A TALE OF MODERN
LIFE. 2 vols.

'My Lady' is a fine specimen of an English
'i, exhibiting that union of strength and
---- of common, sense and romance, of
---- ^which nearly approaches our

"'

is a novel tl

EVA DESMOND j OR, MUTATION.
3 vols.

"A more beautiful creation than Eva it would
be difficult to imagine. The novel is undoubtedly
full of interest." Morning Pott.

" There is power, pathos, and originality in con-
ception and catastrophe." Leader.

THE CRUELEST WRONG OF ALL.

By the Author of " Margaret ; or,
Prejudice at Home." 1 vol.

amuse :

THE MOORS AND THE FENS.

By P. G. TRAFFORD. 3 vols.

" This novel stands out much in the same way
that 'Jane Eyre 'did. . . . 'i he characters are
drawn by a mind which can realize fictitious
-^araotera with minute intensity ."Saturday

that a first fiction is entitled to
a is 'The Moors and the Feng,'
...... { anxiously for ihe writer's next

"The author has the gift of telling a story, and
'The Moors and the Pens' wilf be reao."-
Attenasum.

GASTON BLIGH. ByL.S.LAVENU,
Author of *' Erlesmere." 2 vols.

is told with great power; the whole

; the
char

ra pwr;

oo spares with esprit: and the characters
talk like gentlemen and ladies. It is very enjoy-
reading." Press.

THE WHITE HOUSE BY THE SEA:

A LOVE STORY. By M. BBTHAM-
EDWARDS. 2 vols.
" A tale of English domestic life. The writing is
, and unaffected: it please!

tale of English dome
very good, graceful, and
without startling, in the dialogue, peopl
harangue, but talk, and talk naturally.' i -

" The narrative and scenes exhibit feminine
spirit and o,uiet truth of delineation."-fifpotoon,

MAUD SKILLICORNE'S PENANCE.

By MARY C. JACKSON, Author of
"The Story of My Wardship."
2 vols.

t- dramatio power.''-C%S? P W " a3iae
;h " It is a well concocted tale, and will be
-Htable to novel re4ers."-jSoniinff '

SMITH, ELDER ^.DSTD CO.

NEW NOVELS continued.

THE PROFESSOR.

BELL. 2 vols.

By CDBRER

'"We think the author's friends have shown
sound judgment in publishing the 'Professor,'
now that she is gone. ... It shows the first
' i, which afterwards expanded
i great creations of her ur agi-

me time her advisers were

-. p _- when they counselled her not to

it fn her lifetime. . . . But it abounds

merits." Saturday Review.
" The idea is original, and we every here and
there detect germs of that power which took the
world by storm in 'Jane Eyre.' The rejection of
the 'Professor' was, in our opinion, no less ad-
vantageous to the y oung authoress than creditable
to the discernment of the booksellers."-P;ss.

"Any thing which throws light upon the growth
and composition of such a mind cannot be other-
wise than interesting. In the ' Professor ' we may
discover the germs of many trains of thinking,
which afterwards came to be enlarged and
illustrated in subsequent and more perfect
works." Critic.

"There is much new insight in it, nmch ex-
tremely characteristic genius, and one character,
moreover, of fresher, lighter, and more airy
grace." Economist.
"We have read it^jjj

lotte BrontC's genius will renew

general admiration of her extraordinary powers.'

RIVERSTON. By GEORGIANS M.
GRAIK. 3 vols.

ELOW THE SURFACE. 3 vols.

'The book is unquestionably clever and enter-
mng, Tlie writer develops from first to last
i double view of human life, as coloured by the
-innera of our age. . . It is a tale superior
ordinary novels, in its practical application, to
le phases of actual Iite."-At7ien<sum.
There is a great denl of cleverness in this story ;
nuch greater knowledge of country life and
iracter in its various aspects and conditions
.o,n is possessed by nine-tenths of the novelists
ho undertake to describe it." Spectator.
" The novel is one that keeps the attention fixed,
nd it is written in a genial, often playful tone.
he temper as throughout excellent." Examiner,
"This is a book which possesses the rare merit
f being exactly what it claims to be, a story of
nglish country life: and, moreover, a very well
old story." Daily News.
" 'Below the Surface' merits high praise. It is
full of good thinaa; good taste-good feeling
ood writing good notions, ana. high morality.'

Temperate, sensible, kindly, and pleasant."
Saturday Review.

"A more pleasant story we have not read for
many a day."- BritisA Quarterly.

"It is highly moral in
well as deeply interesl

written in an

.-

"Miss Oraik is a very lively writer : she has wit
and she has sense, and she has made in the
beautiful young Inverness, with, her strong will
sauoy independence, and promptness of repartee
an interesting picture." .Press.

"Miss Craik writes well; she can paint cha
raoter, passions, manners, with considerabl
efflaot: her dialogue flows easily and expressively.'
Daily News,

" A. production of no little mark, and qualiaed t
interest old as well as young." leader.

"Decidedly a clever book; giving hopes of
capacity in the writer for better things in t]

" The author shows great command oflanguage
a force and clearness of expression not often me
with. ... We offer a welcome to Miss Oraik
and we shall look with interest for her nex
work."- Atltenawn.

FARINA. By GEORGE MEREDITH
1 vol.

* amuse tlie """* 801)

" It has a true Rhenish flavourV'-Pww.

THE ROUA PASS. By

MACKENZIE. 3 vols.

It is seldom that we have to notice so good a
novel as the ' Eoua Pass.' The story is weu con-
trived and well told ; the incidents are natural and
varied ; severnl of the characters are skilfully
drawn, and that of the heroine is fresh, powerful
and original. The B ighiand scenery, in whicn
the plot is laid, is described with truth and feeling
with a command of language whic
vivid impression." Saturday Review.

! a work

vwritt

s_and interesting ;

rf the novel is its skilful

, . . as, and of life among the

[ighlanders. Quick observation and a true sense
f the poetry in nature and human life, the
uthor has," JSxaimiw.
"A capital fiction. As a landscape novel, it la
altogether delightful."-GfZofie.

novel the best of

" 'The Boua Pass ' is a good nov

the season."- Weitmwster Jtniew.

This is a very good noveV-

THE NOBLE TRAYTOUR.

A CHRONICLE. 3 vols.

masquerade. Shakespeare,
ilgn, and a hundred nobles,
lights or the land, appear on the
., .ttTior has imbued himself with the
spirit of thetimes."-eatf<sr.

" The story is told with a graphic and graceful
pen, and the chronicler has produced a romance

tiorTof the'scholar.tiiQ aStio,uary, aa the general
reader," Post,

NEW NOVELS continued.

KATHIE BRANDE. By HOLME LEE.
2 yols.

' ' Kathie Brande ' is not n

ly a very interest-

b ' Kathie Brande 1 there is much
"onsiderable powerof description."

MO.

>ndedto illustrate the
"iy as a moving pnn-

._ _ . -Daily News.

" Certainly one of the beat novels that we have
lately xt>a&."~Gua,rdian.

PERVERSION ; OB, THE CAUSES AND
CONSEQUENCES OF INFIDELITY. By
the late Rev. W. J. CONYBEARE.
3 vols.

reader after The has closed the
. .

The tone is good and healthy j the reli/zious
ling sound and true, and well sustained."-

Quarterly Review.
"This is a good and a noble boolt."-JVew

FRIENDS OF BOHEMIA:

OR, PHASES o LONDON LIFE. By
E. M. WHITTY, Author of " The
Governing Classes." 2 vols.

"Mr.Whitty is a genuine satirist, employing
satire for a genuine purpose. You laugh with him
very much; but the laughter ia fruity and ripe in
thought. His style is serious, and his cast of
mind severe. The author has a merriment akin
to that of Jaques and that of Tlmon." Athenaum.

" ' Men a,nd women as they are, and life as it is '
might be the motto of Mr, Whitty's 'Fnends of
Bohemia.' Mr. Wlutty is a satirist, and seldom

"'Friends of Bohemia' has the rare merit of
pointing clever pictures and of being sparkling
and dramatic from beginning to on&.'"-J)aily

THE EVE OF ST. MARK. By

THOMAS DOUBLEDAY. 2 vols.

" ' The Eve of St. Mark ' is not only well written,
but adroitly constructed, and interesting. Its
tone is perhaps too gorgeous; its movement is T
much that of a masc J - " '

created, and a very
trayed." -Athenaeum.

construction. . . . The book is really a ro-
mance~a diorama of antique Venetian life."
Leader.

"It is the work of an artist, thoughtfully de-
signed, and executed with elaborate pains, in all
that relates to the accessories and colouring of
the tune. It will better than most novels of the
day, repay attentive perusal."-Pma.

" We can c<
Mark ' as a \. _.
tale." Critic.

y a striking romance. The plot of
ally constructed, ami the startling
J 'irously introduced as not to

'-Sun.

LUCIAN PLAYFAIR. By THOMAS
MACKEEN. 3 vols.

"There are many truehearted sketches In it of
the homes or our poor, and some wise thoughts
about education, mingled with speculations that
at least tend in aright direction." Examiner.

purity and elevation of his views, his earnestness
without bitterness." Qlobe.

" The most ardent lover of incident will flnd In
this work enoiigh to enchain his interest."- 4
Morning Seralct,

AFTER DARK. By WILKIE COLLINS,
Author of "Basil," "Hide and
Seek," &c. 2 vols.

' Mr. -VTilkle Collins te'ls a

clbly his style is eloquent a
he has a keen insight into

man living better tells a story." Leader.
ollins
-ent

^These stories.possess all the author's well-

"Mr. Wilkie Collins takes high rank

few who can invent a thrilling btory, and
with brief simplicity." Globe,

NOVELS FORTHCOMING.

A NEW NOVEL, By the Author of
" Sylvan Holt's Daughter." 3 vols.

A NEW NOVEL By the Author of
The Heir of Tallis." 3 vols.

A NOVEL By Miss E. W. Arais-
SON, Author of " Memoirs of the
Queens of Prussia-" 2 vola.

And other works of Fiction.

SMITH, 3EL33EK .AJST) CO.

NEW BOOKS FOE YOUNG READERS.

THE PARENTS' CABINET OF AMUSEMENT AND INSTRUCTION FOR YOUNG
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d qualities, and the avoidance of faults.
CTERS, interesting to Young People.
liClty of on ' 1(i| ren.
BB.IJBS ANJJ MECHANICAL

GEOGRAPHY, INHABITANTS, AND PRODUCTIONS OP

Miss EDGWWOBTH'S Opinion of the PABBK

z it a<t ranch, as I think it deserves.
It alternately excites and relieves

it feel afraid of praising it i
he book that it cannot tire.

bit or frittering away the mind by requiring no

'- '3, Re understands his business ana ouuureu

the"sympatfiy"ojr"th!e young^peol'l^always enlisted on the right side.'

'ithout lecturing, or prosing

There is so much
i, and does not lead
Whoever

%* Vols. I. to VIII., are now ready.

By the Author of " Round the Fire," &c.

i.

UN1CA : A STORY FOR A SUNDAY
AFTERNOON. With Four Illus-
trations. Price 3s. cloth.
" The character of TJnica is charmingly con-
ceived, and thestorv pleasantly told." Spectator.
" An ( xcellent and exceedingly pretty story for

"This tale, hke S ?ts 'author's former ones, Will
find favour in the nursery." AtAenasum.

OLD GINGERBREAD AND THE

SCHOOL- BOYS, ^ith Four

Coloured Plates. Price 35. cloth.

I Gingerbread and the School-boys' is
..., .A ^,._ ^ j -g and colouring of the

Hwel

"""TlwTbobk is wellgotup.and the coloured plates

a In r excelleht boyi/book ; excellent in. its moral,
n its langnnge, and luxuriously
uUaN'em<>ftfie World.
d excellent tale, illustrated
ely coloured pictures."

""A deWgntrul story for little bom inculcating
benevolent feelings to tliepoor."-.ferwcttc JBejwew,

ni.

WILLIE'S BIRTHDAY? SHOWING now
A LITTLE BOY DID WHAT HE LIKED,

AND HOW HE ENJOYED IT. With

Four Illustrations. Price 2*. 6d. cl.

WILLIE'S REST A SUNDAY STORY.

With Four Illustrations. Price

2*. 6c?. cloth.

"Graceful little tales, contain...,, _.
mrftbles, and a good deal of simple

" Mxtremelywell written story boots, amuslnft
nnd moral, and got up in a very Uandsome style."
JlornintrMerald.

UNCLE JACK, THE FAULT KILLER,

With Four Illustrations. Price 3*. cl.

" An excellent little book of moral improvement
made pleasant to children ; it is far beyond the
commoii-placemoraltale in design and execution."

ROUND THE FIRE: Six STORIES
FOK YOUNG HEADERS. Square
16mo, "with Four Illustrations.
Price 3$. cloth.

Charmingly written tales for the young."

ie children's stories." .4*Ae.

THE KING OF THE GOLDEN RIVER-,

OR, THE BLACK BROTHERS. By
JOHN R.XTSKIN, M. A. Third edition,
with 22 Illustrations
DOYLE. Price 2s. 6

TMs little fancy tale is by
y has a charming moral."

STORIES FROM THE PARLOUft
PRINTING PRESS. By the

Authors of the "Parents' Cabinet"
Fcap. 8vo, price 2s. cloth.

RHYMES FOR LITTLE ONES*

With 16 Illustrations. l$.6d. cloth.

LITTLE DERWENT'S BREAKFAST,

2*. clotb.

JUVENILE MISCELLANY. Six En-
gravings. Price 2$, 6d cloth,

INVESTIGATION; OR, TEAVBLS nr
THE BOUDOIR. By Miss HALSXBD.
Fcap, cloth, price 3*. 6rf,

23

PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER & CO.

POETRY.

SKETCHES FROM DOVER

CASTLE, AND OTHER POEMS. By

Lieut-Col. WILLIAM READ. Crown

Svo. (Just ready.}

POEMS. By FRED. W. WYON.

Fcap. Svo. Price 5s. cloth.
" In his minor poems Mr. "VTyon shows a great
deal of the true sentiment of poetry." Daily
Telegraph-
IONICA. Fcap. Svo, 4s. cloth.

"The themes, mostlv classical, are grappled
withboldness, and tonerl with a lively imagination
The style is rich nnd firm, and cnnnotbe mid to
be an imitation of any known author. We cor-
dially recommend it to our readers as a book of

"lor is in his mood, quizzical, satirical,
and didactic by turns, and in each
sjitroordinary power." Illus-

THE SIX LEGENDS OF KING

GOLDENSTAK. By the late ANNA

BRADSTKEET. Fcap. 8vo, price 5s.

" The author evinces more than ordinary power,

a vivid imagination, guided by a mind of lofty

& The poetrv is tasteful, and above the avera
National Revietv,

" This is a posthumous poetn hy an unknown
authoress, of higher scope and more finish thin
theciowd of poerns which come before us. The
fancy throughout the poem aa quick andllght,and
musical." At henaum.

POEMS. ByADATREVANlON. 5S. Cl.

" There really is a value in such poems as those
of Ada Trevanion. They save an image of what
many women are on their nest side. Perhaps no-
- 3 can we point to a more satisfactory Trait
-"-- 1J ~ation than in a volume ' 1 "

" There are many passn^es in Miss Trevanion'a

poems full of grace and tenderness, "^ '

as music on the water." Press.

POEMS. By HENRY CECIL. 5s. cloth

"He shows power in his sonnets, while in his
lighter ana less le&tnctive measures the lyric
elementis dominant. . . , If Mr Cecil does noi
make hianame famous, it is not that he does noi
desen e to do so."Cnhc.

" There is an unmistakeable stamp of gei
poetrv in most of these passes." Economist.

"Mr. Cecil's poems risplay qualities whicl
stamp them the productions of a fine imagination
and a cultivated taste." Morning Herald.

ENGLAND IN TIME OF WAR

By SYDNEY DOBELL, Author oi
" Balder/' " The Roman/' &c
Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth.

"That Mr. Doliell is a poet, ' England in time o
War 'bears witness " "*

THE CRUEL SISTER, AND OTHER
POEMS. Fcap. Svo, 4s. cloth.

e traces of power, and the versification

OF PAST YEARS

ARTHUR HALLAM ELTON,
Foap. Svo, 3s. cloth.

OEMS. By Mrs. FRAJTB: P. FELLO-WS.
Fcap. Svo, 3s. cloth.

POETRY FROM LIFE. ByC.M.K.

Fcap. Svo, cloth gilt, 5s.
Elecant verses. The au'hor has a pleasing
fancy and a refined mind." Economist.

POEMS. By WALTER R. CASSELS.

Fcap. Svo.'Ss. 6d., cloth.

Mr. Cassels has deep poetical feeling, and stfves
promise of real excelle " Ai ~

GARLANDS OF VERSE. By THOMAS
LEIGH. 5s. cloth.

One of the best tilings in the ' Garlands of
"Verse ' is an Ode to Toil. There, as elsewhere,
there is excellent feeling." Exwmner,

BALDER. By SYDNEY DOBELL*
Crown Svo, 7s. 6rf., cloth.
The writer has flno qualities; his level of
thought ia lofty, and Ins passion for the beautiful
has the truth of instinct." Athenaeum.

POEMS. By WILLIAM BELL SCOTT.

Fcap. Svo, 5s , cloth.
"Mr. Scott has poetical feeling, keen observation,
deep thought, and command of language."
Spectator.

POEMS. By MARY MAYNARD.

Fcap. Svo, 4s., cloth.
" We have rai ely met with a volume of poems
displaying so laige an amount or power, blended
witli so much delicacy of feelint; and grace of
expression," Church of England Quarterly.

POEMS. By CITRRER, ELLIS, and
ACTON BELL. 4s., cloth.

SELECT ODES OF HORACE. In

English Lyrics. By J. T. .BLACK.
Fcap. 8vo, price 4s., cloth.

RHYMES AND RECOLLECTIONS
OF A HAND-LOOM WEAVER.

By WILLIAM TIIOM. With Me-
moir. Post Svo, cloth, price 3s.

KING RENE'S DAUGHTER.

Svo, price 2s. 6rf. 'cloth.

Fcap.

MAID OF ORLEANS, AND OTHER
POEMS. Translated from SCHILLEK,
Fcap. Svo, price 2s. 6rf.

ton: Printed by SMIIH, ELDEU and Co., Little Green Arbour Court, E.G.