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^^^^ 





^<<i: 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIsft, 



.:-' ' IK 



VENEZUELA. AND NEW GREl^ADA, 

AKDIV 

THE PACIFIC OCEAN; 

From 1817 to 1830: • 

WITH THE 

NAEEATIVE OF A MABCH FROM THE BIVEB ORINOCO TO 
SAN BUEKAVSVTiniA ON THE COAST OF CH0c5 ; 

AND 

Sbiutc^t^ of tj^e URtiA 0O8^t of Sbou^ Amnka 

F&OM THE 
GULF OF CALIFORiriA TO THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE. 



ALSO, 

TALES OF VENEZUELA: 

ILLUSTRATIVE OF REVOLUTIONARY M^N, MANNERS, 

AND INCIDENTS. 



• IN THREE VOLUMES. 
VOL. I. ^ 

LONDON : 
LONGMAN AND CO. 

PRINTED BY H. E. CARRINGTON, CHRONICLE OFFICE, BATU. 

183L 






• • 



CONTENTS. Vll 

Native Chie^— Bolivar returns to Angostura— Col 
Hippesley follows him. — GoL Wilson obtains the Com- 
mand of the Foreign Troops. — Winter Quarters in 
Achaguas. — Paez*s Mint. — Coinage of the Llanos. — 
Diversibns in La Isla, — Feast of San JuanBautista. 

Page 106 

CHAPTER VIIL 

Tour through Paez*s Province — Wild Cattle and Horses. 

— wad Asses. —Dairy Farm in the Llanos. — Substi- 
tute for Salt. — Milking Wild Cows. — Method of 
Breaking-in Horses. — Burning the Long Grass.— 
Paez*s Stratagem against the Spanish Troops. — Uses 
of the^'-Guadua. — Mountain Bridges. — Trapichis, or 
Sugar Mills. — Country Stills. — PJantains. — Daring 
Conduct of a Llanero. — Extract of Tobacco used for 
Chewing. ... ... ... ... 118 

CHAPTER IX. 

Paez returns to Achaguas. — Passage down the Orinoco 
during the Floods. — Bolivar's Dragoon Guard. — 
Province of Barcelona. — Wild Fruit. — Poisonous Nut. 

— Bread made of Cazava Root. — Monagas Defeats the 
Spaniards at Cantaura — Bolivar returns toVarinas. — 
Deputation to Santander from New Grenada. — Morillo 
advances on Varinas. — Bolivar retreats across the 
Orinoco. — Paez bums San Fernando. — Distress of the 
Emigrants. — Morillo Crosses the Arauco. — Harassing 
Campaigns in the Llanos. — Supplies cut off from the 
Spanish Army. — Chiguiris. — Santander defeats La 
Torre. — Morillo retreats to Caraccas. — Winter Quar- 
ters. — The Yellow Fever 137 

CHAPTER X. 

Bolivar advances to Guadualito. — Sandy Plains near 
Merricuri. — The Mirage. — Distress of the Troops for 
want of Water. — Armadillos. — March to Cazanares— 
Carribi Fish. — Rafts made of Hide. — Bolivar enters 



// 



• • • 



VIU CONTENTS. 

the Hilly Country. — Food of the Mouni 
Aracacha Root. — Forests in the Cordillera. - 
Bridges. — Paramos of the Andes. — Night 
the summit — Sufferings of the Troops durir 
sage. — Descent from the Cordillera. — Villa] 
Grenada. — Defeat of the Spaniards at Varg; 
var enters Tunja. — Spanish Army Routed 
General Barre3rra taken Prisoner. 

CAAPTER XI. 

Cruelty of the Viceroy Zamano. — Military Ei 
La Pola. — Royalist Bulletins. — Flight of 2 
Cartagena. —Bolivar enters Santa Fe. — Inhi 
the CapitaL — Market Place. — Costume of t 
of Bogota. — Dress of the Female Devotees. — 
Quinta. —Description of the City. — Saddler^ 
Alameda. — The CathedraL — Viceroy's Palac 
de Moneda. — Hospital of San Juan de Dios. • 
sions in Passion Week. — Indian Masquerade 
ract of Tecuendama. — Droves of Mules. — In 
of Agriculture. — Treading out the Com. — H 
of the Peasantry. ^ Country Curas. — Ignorat 
Friars. — Union of Venezuela with New Grer 



CHAPTER XII. 

Santander appointed Vice-President of Colombia, 
dition against Popayan. — Pass of Boca del ] 
City of Ney va. — Mountain pass of Quindiu. . 
Caravanserais. — Road through Ravines. — Ini 
riers. — Taking the Town of La Plata. — Para; 
tayo. — Cacique Lorenzo. — Lagoons on the C 
—Victory over the Spaniards. — Calzada re 
Popayan. — View of the Valley of Cauca.— 
Call. — Plantations in the Valley. — Grold mine; 
lichao. — Traffic with the Miners. — Ruined 
and Quintas. — Gen. Calzada evacuates Po 
Gen. Valdez's conduct 



i 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER XIII. 

City of Popajan.— -Public Buildingrg. — Conde de Valencia. 
—Wealth of the Inhabitants. — The rich Widow. — Vol- 
cano of Puraze. — Thunder Storms.— Scarcity of Tobac- 
co and Sugar. — Indian Antiquities. — Narcotic Herb. — 
Danta, or Animal Ghrande. — Sources of the Orinoco, 
Magdalena, and Cauca. — Trade with the Wild Indians 
for Gold. — Province of Patia.— Bridge of Mayo. — 
Forest of San Lorenzo. — River Juanambu. — Singular 
Phenomenon near Tambo Pintado. — Valdez defeated 
at Guachi-Bamba. —Arrival of General Sucre. — Armis- 
tice. — Revolution at GuayaquiL — March from Cali 
to the coast of Choca— Descent of the Rapids in Canoes. 

— Montana of Las Juntas. — Port of San Buenaventura. 

— Reach the Shores of the Pacific Ocean. —^ Sucre's 
Army embarks. — Island of Gorgona. — Landing at 
point Santa Helena. Page 215 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Catamarans. — Salt Works. — Mineral Tar Spring. — In- 
dian Village of Santa Helena. — Total absence of Rain. 

— Town of El Morro. — River of GuayaquiL — De- 
scription of the City. — Ciudad Vieja, and Ciudad 
Nueva. — Public Bathing place.— Chimborazo. — Erup- 
tion of Cotopaxi — Reinforcement from Colombia.— 
Lopez's Conspiracy. — Insurrection of the Gun-boats. — 
Bolivar arrives. — Lord Cochrane and the Squadron. — 
Author joins the service of Chfle. ... 239 

CHAPTER XV. 

Chileno Squadron sails for Acapulco. — Islands of La 
Plata and Cocos. — Capture of a Pirate Felucca. — 
Gulf of Fonseca. — Volcanos on the coast of Tehuante- 
pec — Araucano detained in Acapulco. — Lord Cochrane 
enters the Harbour. — Description of Acapulco. — Inde 
pendencia and Araucano detached to California. — Tres 
Marias Islands. — Capture of a Spanish Gun-brig.— 



\\ 



X CONTENTS. 

Missi(m of Cape San Lucar. — Unfortunate expedition 
on Shore. — Declaration of independence in South Cali- 
fomia.— Mutiny and Loss of the Araucano.— Guaymas 
in the Gulf of California. — Sail for Chile. — Arrive at 
Coquimbo. ... ^^ Page 266 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Valparaiso. — The Port — The AlmendraL — Quebradas. 
English Village and Cemetery. — Forts. — Market. — 
Summer and Winter Gales. — Numerous Shipwrecks. — 
Wreckers. •— Earthquake of 1822. — Phenomena then 
observed. — Fatal Accidents in consequence. — Perma- 
nent elevation of the Coast. — Sun-baked Bricks. — 
Bullock Waggons. — Muleteers. — The Poncho. 279 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Huazos' Costume. — Superstitions. — Chinganas. — Horse 
Racing. — National Dances. — The Rodeo. — Marking 
the Cattle. — Wild Bulls. — Feats of Horsemanship. — 
Hawking. — Hunting the Vicuna. — Vineyards in Chile. 

— Horses exported. — Charqui — La Polilla. — The 
Scorpion and Tarantula. — River Bio Bio. — Inhabit- 
ants of Santiago. — The Estrado. — Drinking the Mate. 

— Dress of the Chilenas. -r 304 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Road from Valparaiso to Santiago. — Cuesta de Zapata. — 
Morning view of Casa Blanca. — Caxon de Zapata. — 
Bustamante. — > Espino Wood. — Cuesta de Prado. — 
Plain of Santiago. — View of the Andes. — Ford of Pu- 
daguel. — Entrance of the CapitaL — Plaza Mayor. — 
Water Carriers. — Public BuUdings. — Schools. — 
Church plate. — Public Penance. — Bearing the Cross.— 
Feast of Corpus Christi. — Procession of San Pedro by 
Water. — Casa de Exercisios. 318 



CONTENTS. XI 

CHAPTEB XIX. 

Biver of Santiago. — Tigamar. — Anecdote of a Chileno 
Marquez. •» Promenade of the Canada. *» Cafes. — 
Santa Luda. — Public Cemetery. — Cruelties of Zam- 
bruno. •» Mode of conveying the Mail in Chile. — 
Watchmen. — Police. — Impunity of Female Crim- 
inals. •.. ••• ••• ••• P&g6 334 

CHAPTER XX. 

Mutiny on Board the Frigate Lautaro. — Independencia 
sails to blockade Chiloe. — Short passage to Huachucu- 
cui. -7- The Archipelago. — Cedar Planks. — Piraguas. — 
Hocl^s of Carelmapu. — Harbour of Yaldivia. — Forts. — 
The Town. — Insurrection in Concepcion. — CoL Beau- 
chefs Regiment embarks. •^Island of Mocha. — Harbour 
of Takahuano. — Capt. Wilkinson Wounded. —Arrival 
of Freyre at Valparaiso. — O^Higglns deposed.— Retires 
to Peru. — Freyre elected President. 349 

CHAPTER XXI. 

CaUao Bay. — 'Boqueron Passage. — Castles. — Casas-Ma- 
tas. — Hardships of Patriot Prisoners. — Ruins of Old 
CaUao. — Town of New Callao. — City of Lima. — Con- 
vent of Santa Rosa. — Indian Treasures. — Limenas' 
Love of Flowers. — Their Costume. — Conde de Torre 
Tagle and Family Starved. — Return to Chile. — Anec- 
dote of the Inquisition. ^Island of Ma8-Afuera.<*Juan 
Fernandez. — Colony of Convicts. — Manta Fish. — 
Lautaro sails for Arica. — Slaughter of Horses. — Span- 
ish Privateer. 365 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Independencia sails to Talcahuano. — The Port and 
Town. •» Children Sold. — Benancio and the Araucano 
Indians. — Sham Fight. — Caciques' Visit on Board.— 



XU CONTENTS. 

Recruits Embark. — Sickness on Board. — Sail to Co- 
quimbo. — City of La Serena. -• Lucumas. — Ship sails 
to Valdivia. — Native Officers. — Expedition arrives at 
Chiloe. — Anchors at Chacao. — Loss of the Corvette 
Voltaire. — The Army Defeated. — Tucapel dismasted. 
— Expedition returns to Valparaiso. ... Page 386 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

/ Admiral Blanco's Expedition. — Last Spanish Fleet doubles 
Cape Horn. ^ Sails to Callao. ^ Meets Admiral Guise. 
» Proceeds to La Manila. — Huachinango's Mutiny. — 
Carry La Asia to Acapulco, and El Aquiles to Valpa- 
raiso. — Surrender of Callao. — Bolivar threatens Chi- 
loe. — Freyre attacks the Archipelago. — Army lands. — 
Ships engage the Batteries. — Quintanilla capitulates.— 
Lctst Spanish Flag hauled down. — Chileno Squadron sold 
to Buenos Ayres. — Frigate O'Higgins, Capt. Cobbett, 
founders off Cape Horn, with all hands. ... 403 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Preparations for a Tour to Aconcagua.— .Shooting Water 
FowL — Chileno Myrtles. — Supper at a Chacra. — 
Fruits.— Humming-birds.— Mocking Thrushes.— Moun- 
tain Pole-cat. — Pehuechen. — Guanacos, Vicunas, and 
Chilehueques. — Burrowing Owls.— Shrubs and Flowers. 
— Chileno Lion. — Ostriches. — Indian Suspension 
Bridge. —Battle Field of Chacabuco. — Return to 
Santiago. ... ..- ... ••> ••« ... 4)7 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Aldunate's Government. — Fuente's Insurrection in 
Chiloe.— Aquiles detached to the Archipelago. ^Indians 
join Aldunate. — Artillerymen give up the Castles. — 
Aquiles' narrow Escape. — The Mutineers surrender. — 
Fuentes attempts Suicide.— Mint sent to Coquimbo. — 
Difficulties in removing it. — Aquiles sails to Callao. — 



CONTENTS. xm 

The Andes at Sunrise. ^ Cuano. — Conspiracies against 
Pinto. «• Pelucones and Laberales. ^ Insurrection in 
SantMgo P<^ 435 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

The Sotozos, Chileno Lazzaroni. ^ Congress adjourns to 
Talparaiso. ^ Tumultuous Debates. ^ Civil War in 
Santiago. -The Militia of ValMraiso. - Mutiny on 
the March. ^ Insurrection quelled. — Exhumation and 
ie>interment of the three Generals Carrera.^New 
Constitution proclaimed. — Pinto re-elected President. 
— Retires to Coquimbo. ^ Chiloe, Concepcion, and 
Coquimbo revolt. —* Conclusion. ... ... 447 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. — ^ARRIVAL AT ST. THOMAS*S. — DISSENSIONS 
AMONG THE TOLUKTEEE PATRIOTS. — FATAL DUEL. — SAIL 

FOB THE FLORIDA8. UNPLEASANT ADVENTURE AT ST. 

JOHN'S RIVER. — HOSPITALITY OF AN IRISH PLANTER. — 

EXPLORING THE CREEKS. — ^TREE OYSTERS. AMELIA ISLAND. 

GENERAL AURREY*8 MUTINOUS GARRISON. — ^TURBULENT PRI- 
VATEERS'-MEN. — GALE OF WIND. — BEAR UP FOR GRENADA. 

Ix the early part of the year 1817, the writer 
of the following pages left England, in company 
with sereral other volonteers, whose military ser- 
Wces had been offered to Veneznela, and accepted 
by Don Luis Lopez Mendez, the accredited agent 
for that republic in London. Our regiment, the 
1st. Venezuelan Lancers, was the first of the 
ni^pBierous corps formed abdft that time, that set 
out from Europe to the assistance of the patriot 
forces in South America. Colonel Donald McDo- 
nald, (^rmerly aide-de-camp to General Ballas* 
teros,) our commanding officer, was of course most 
anxious to maiiAain the priority, in landing on the 
shores of Tierra Firme, which he had obtained, by 
incessant exerticm and anxiety, in sailing from 
Portsmouth beforojds brother Colonels, Hippesley, 
Wilson, Gilmoufy^c. As the intelligence to be 



2 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

obtained in London, however, at that time, re- 
specting the actual situation of both patriot and 
royalist armies, — as well as of what Venezuelan 
ports might be open for our reception, — was 
doubtful and contradictory, Col. McDonald wag^ 
furnished with instructions to proceed, in the first 
place, to the island of St. Thomas, in the wind- 
ward group named after La Virgen Gorda. The 
Danes being strict neutrals, many patriot families 
had taken refuge under their peaceful flag ; haying 
found themselves under the necessity of flying from 
the city of Cardcas, and other parts of the Spauidh 
Main, on the arrival of the royalist general^ Don 
Pablo Morillo, at the head of the expedition which 
sailed from Cadiz in 1815. We had therefore 
reasonable expectations of hearing the latest and 
most credible accounts, from these emigrants, of 
the state of affairs in Venezuela. 

As St. Thomas's was reported to be frequented 
by insurgent privateers, droguers, and other small 
vessels trading to ports on the Main, it was our 
intention to engage one of them to convey us up the 
river Orinoco, to the city of Santo Tomas de las 
Angosturas ; at whjili place Simon Bolivar, ^n 
whom the title of Gefe Supremo de la Republica 
had been recently conferred, had established the 
head quarters of his army. But unluckily, on our 
arrival at the West Indies, we were informed that 
no vessel whatever would attemptAthe entrance of 
the Orinoco ; — so great was the dread entertained 
of the royalist gun boats, which were said to be 
then blockading the mouths of tiiat river. Nothing, 
indeed, was talked of in the co£Ee6*houses, but the 



CJiBfPAIGNS AND CRUISED. 3 

atrocioas cruelties prepetrated by the sanguinary 
Gabaaoy Commodore of the Spanish guarda-costas, 
by whose own hands all those who had the mis- 
fortone to be captured, in the act of endeavouring 
to .hold any intercourse with the patriots, were 
mercilessly massacred. 

It would transgress the limits of my plan, were 
I to detail the many melo -dramas that were en- 
acted here, eyery day of our short compulsory re- 
sidence in this port. Suffice it to say, that the 
ofloal arerage number of quarrels took place, as 
miglit have been expected, among a party consist- 
ing, chiefly, of inexperienced hot-headed youths, 
who now, for the first time, wrote themselves men. 
Many trifling misunderstandings, such as would 
have been explained away, '< by virtue of an if," 
under any other circumstances, but those of feverish 
ennui under a vertical sun, were here brought to 
mortal arbitrement. One of the numerous duels 
ended fatally. We lost one of our best officers ; 
and the surviving principal, as well as those im- 
plicated as seconds, found it expedient to leave the 
island speedily and secretly. The Danish military 
Governor, who had behaved to us, from the moment 
of our first interview with him, with as much polite- 
ness, — indeed kindness, — as was consistent with 
the duties of his situation in a neutral island, hinted 
to Col. M'Don'sld that he should be obliged to take 
serious notice of the occurrence, were it brought 
officially before him. He took the same opportunity 
of stating candidly his situation, with respect to the 
royalists, against whose cause we had volunteered. 
The island under his command, he said, being 

B 2 



4 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

occasionally subject to drought, depended chiefly 
in times of dearth, on receiving fresh provisions 
from Puerto Rico and the neighbouring small 
islands. It was at any time in the power of the 
Spanish authorities to interrupt those supplies, as 
well as to prohibit all trade between St. Thomas's 
and the Main; and he little doubted that such 
would be their revengeful policy, were they to 
suspect the Danish islands of countenancing and 
assisting the insurgents. 

Under these circumstances, we saw clearly the 
necessity of leaving St. Thomas's, as soon as we 
could engage a vessel to convey us elsewhere. 
The master of the ship, which had carried us out, 
had conducted himself towards the officers in gene- 
ral, and Col. McDonald in particular, with such 
marked insolence, that we unanimously agreed to 
run all risks on board a droguer, rather than reem- 
bark with him; — even had he been willing to have 
accommodated us all. His manoeuvres, too, while 
in this harbour, were such, to say the least of them, 
as justified us regarding him with suspicion ; for he 
cut off the poop of his ship, to give her a flush 
deck; and mounted several iron guns, which he 
hoisted out from among the ballast. We there- 
fore landed our beds, and the greater part of our 
baggage, and messed together at a French board- 
ing-house ; where, by the way, we fared sumptuously 
cm turtle and iguanas. Our precaution proved 
not to have been an idle one ; for, a few mornings 
after, wliile taking our customary walk to the 
ruins of the old Buccaneers* fort on the hill, which 
commands a lovely view of the town, bay, and 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 5 

neighbooring islands, we saw our late schipper get 
under weigh, and stand out of the harbour under a 
press of canvas, which he had bent during the night. 
The Danische artillery-men in the forts were never 
famed for alertness ; and, on this occasion, they were 
taken completely by surprise ; for, it seems, Capt. 
R. had not given the least intimation of his design. 
A shot of two were fired, to bring the ship to, 
but ineffectually; and we soon lost sight of her 
behind the point. 

Our letters of introduction from Mendez were 
addressed to all, or either, of the three Venezulau 
Generals, Don Simon Bolivar, Don Santiago 
Marino, and Sir Gregor McGregor, — who formed to- 
gether the ostensible Government. The last named 
member of the Junta was then, as we ascertained 
from the patriot emigrants, at the island of Ame- 
lia in the East Floridas, from which he had lately 
succeeded in expelling the Spaniards ; and the 
Marqueza de Tovar, a native of Caracas, at whose 
hospitable house we usually formed a tertulia 
in the evenings, suggested to Col. McDonald the 
expediency of joining our distinguished country- 
man, at his new conquest, and serving under 
him, untU an opportunity should occur of pur- 
suing the object of our original destination. We 
agreed to follow her advice, and were eventually 
rescued by it from our aukward dilemma. 

There hnppened, fortunately, to be lying at St. 
Thomas's a small American schooner, called the 
Mary, belonging to Mobile, the master of which, 
Captain Lane, not being able to obtain a freight 
for her at this island, was glad to take us as passen- 

B 3 



6 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

engers to Fernandina, the Capital, and indeed only- 
town at Amelia ; stipulating that he should he al- 
lowed to touch, on our way thither, at the Grand 
Turk salt key, for the purpose of taking in a cargo 
of salt. During the passage, nothing worthy of 
mention occurred ; excepting that Col. McDonald, 
and five of his officers, narrowly escaped being 
consigned to a Spanish prison, in the casas-matas 
of the forts in San Agustin; — and that, before we 
had even commenced our campaigns. 

Within the Gulf stream, which runs with great 
rapidity along the coast of East Florida, there is a 
considerable eddy, or indraught, setting along shore 
to the Southward, directly contrary to the course 
of the main stream. For this current, as it after- 
wards appeared, the master of the schooner had not 
sufficiently allowed in his reckoning. The conse- 
quence was, that he made the entrance of the St. 
John's river, in a part of the country still in pos- 
session of the Spaniards, instead of that of the St. 
Mary's, close to the mouth of which is Amelia 
island. 

The morning was calm, and no pilot appeared in 
readiness to take us over the bar. The above men- 
tioned party of officers,^ who were eager to escape 
from the confinement of a small crowded vessr 
volunteered to pull the jolly-boat in themseb 
(taking one sailor only with them as boat keep« 
for the purpose of sending a pilot out to 
schooner. On approaching the bar, howeve 
found the surf on it so heavy, that it was 
dangerous to cross it. In attempting to ap 
nearer to the shore, and by that means t 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 7 

the river between the bar and the beach, we un- 
expectedly drifted, with the flood tide, among the 
breakers caused by the ground- swell. The first 
.sea, that took the jolly-boat, filled it up to the 
thwarts ; and the next broke over us, capsizing the 
boat about half a mile from the shore. As we all, 
fortunately, could swim, we escaped with a thorough 
ducking, and reached the land in safety, just in 
time to warn, by our signals, a small coaster of her 
danger ; for she was very near being lost, by fol- 
lowing our boat, supposing us to be well acquainted 
with the proper channel, by our pulling in with 
such apparent confidence. It was now evidently 
impossible for us to return on board, as the power 
of man could not have pulled the boat out against 
the surf, which was every moment increasing under 
the influence of a fresh sea breeze, even had it 
been in our power to launch her from the beacb, 
where she lay high and dry. The schooner Mary, 
too, soon found her mistake, and stood on for the 
right river. She had observed our accident, and 
had given us up, as either drowned in landing, or 
taken prisoners by the Spaniards. We had now 
the severe task to perform of dragging the boat, 
(ancle deep in a soft sand,) for nearly a league, 
before we could launch her in smooth water. Tliis 
exercise, under a broiling sun, and on an empty 
stomach, (for we had confidently reckoned on break- 
fasting on shore,) was beyond measure fatiguing. 
Added to this, we had before us the disheartening 
prospect of being imprisoned, perhaps for life, in a 
Spanish dungeon ; all which places of confinement, 
and especially those in the South American colonies, 



8 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

are, I should suppose, the worst of any in the world. 
The further hardship also awaited us, in the event 
of our heing taken, of heing compelled to lahour in 
irons the at public works ; fortunate indeed if we 
escaped " un petit pendement hienjoU" in the cha- 
racter of pirates taken in arms on the coast ; for 
we had as yet no commissions to show, the afore- 
said letters of introduction being even worse than 
useless to us here, as addressed, by an unrecognised 
envoy, to proscribed rebels to his Catholic Majesty 
Fernando 7mo. Having held a hasty council in 
this alarming emergency, we agreed to seize the first 
person we should meet, and compel him to be our 
guide to Amelia island ; one of our party, Lieut. 
Thomas of the Venezuelan navy, being well aware 
of the communications between most of the rivers on 
that coast, by numerous creeks intersecting the land. 
After seeing several canoes, all of which made 
their escape precipitately, scared, probably, "by the 
nodding plumes," in that unfrequented river, (for 
we had all, unfortunately, put on uniform before 
leaving the schooner, as we expected to meet 
McGregor) we came suddenly on two blacks, who 
were fishing at the mouth of a small creek. They 
were evidently much afirighted at first, supposing 
us to belong to some predatory expedition from 
Amelia island. On hearing us speak English, 
however, one of them agreeably surprized us, by 
telling us, in the same language, that his master 
was a North American planter, who lived a short 
distance off, up that same creek. They conducted 
us to a plantation, through woods of majestic live- 
oak trees. Many of these, we observed, had been 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 9 

stripped of their bark, preparatory to being cut 
down : and this method, we were informed by our 
guides, rendered the wood harder and more durable. 
The owner proved to be an Irishman by birth, of the 
name of Fitzpatrick, who had been long settled in 
the country. He was married to a Criolla, or native 
female *; and had a large family. He expressed his 
surprize at the strange chance, that had procured 
for him the first visit of his countrymen it had been 
his lot to receive, during the whole time he had been 
settled in the plantation. At the same time, though 
highly delighted to hear news of any kind from Eu- 
rope, and to have this unexpected opportunity of 
conversing in his native language, he was in great 
alarm on our account, lest any intelligence should 
reach the garrison at San Agustin of our being on 
that part of the coast ; as it would inevitably lead to 
our detention. He was also, although he endea- 
voured to disguise his feelings, evidently not without 
apprehension of the consequences to himself, if it 
should by any means be discovered to the Spanish 
Governor of the province, that he had hai'boured 
insurgents on his plantation, instead of dispatching 
immediate intelligence respecting them to the 
nearest military post. He remarked, however, 
that his negroes were all faithful and attached to 
him : and, to prevent them from straggling that 
night towards the forts, he gave them each an extra 
allowance of rum, which soon set them singing and 
dancing in the moonlight, to their favourite banjies 
and guitars. 

He concealed us immediately in a barn half filled 
with cotton, least some accidental visitor might drop 



10 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

in at the house ; and, after a hearty supper of fish, 
venison, wild turkies and parrots, which was sump- 
tuous, considering' the remote forests we were ex- 
ploring, we soon forgot, in a sound sleep, both 
our fatigue, and the very serious danger that 
threatened us. Before day-break, our kind host, 
who had been kept on the watch all night by his 
anxiety on our account, awoke us, and conducted 
us to our boat, which he had plentifully stored 
with provisions and fruit. Then, regretting much 
that our mutual safety would not admit of his en- 
joying our company for a few days longer, he bid 
us farewell, having furnished us with one of his 
slaves, as a g^ide through the numerous natural 
canals, which unite the two rivers, St. John's and 
St. Mary's, and separate the island of Amelia from 
the main land. The coast of East Florida, being 
very low, is so intersected by creeks, as to render 
the navigation very intricate, and make it a totally 
hopeless task for a stranger to endeavour to find 
his way without assistance. It is, indeed, a per- 
fect wilderness, where not a sound is to be heard, 
except occasionally the scream of a solitary water- 
fowl, disturbed in his fishing, or the splash of the 
small river porpoises, called tonin&Sy as they gam- 
bol along in shoals. The banks of the numerous 
islands, formed by this labyrinth of creeks, are 
covered with mangrove trees, growing so close 
together, as to render it extremely difficult to land. 
The branches of these trees, or rather shrubs, hang 
into the water, and give shelter to innumerable 
alligators and water snakes. 

Tree-oysters are found here in abundance, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 11 

adhering firmly to the mangroves, on which they 
colonize, and moltiply amazingly ; although, as the 
tide falls, they are left suspended, at least half the 
day, out of their natural element. These oysters 
are very small, and are scarcely worth the trouhle of 
opening. They form considerable masses, resemb- 
ling masonry, as they attach themselves to each other 
by means of a firm white cement, which hardens 
like mortar. There are many old forts in the 
neighbourhood, built by the former inhabitants of 
Uiis country, to protect them against the inroads of 
the Creek Indians. We saw several of this descrip- 
tion, formed entirely of blocks cut i&om these masses 
of oysters. There is also a more modern work of 
the same material, considerable both for strength 
and extent, constructed on an island at the mouth 
of the river St. Mary, during the last war between. 
England and the United States; an attack being 
apprehended on the town of St. Mary's, opposite 
Femandina. 

We at length reached Amelia island ; and found 
the state of afiairs in great confusion. Sir Gregor 
M*Gregor left the place on the very evening of our 
arrivid ; having resigned the command of the island 
to General Aurrey, a French officer, who was, or 
had been, in the service of Venezuela. This per- 
son soon proved himself to be totally incompetent 
to undertake the arduous situation of Governor of 
a disputed territory ; so exposed, as this was, to the 
attacks of the enemy from without, and so divided 
by contending interests and opinions within. His 
advanced age, and increasing infii*mities, had depri- 
ved him of all energy, both mental and corporeal j 



12 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

while his jealousy of the English and Americans, 
under his command, was so much inflamed hy our un- 
looked for, and, to him, unwelcome arrival, that he 
actually ordered the guns in the Plaza and block- 
houses to be spiked, under pretence of a conspiracy 
having been formed to deprive him of the com- 
mand. It must be owned, that the turbulent con- 
duct of the greater part of the officers and soldiers, 
who composed the garrison we found at Feman- 
dina, might fully justify him in entertaining those 
apprehensions, and even more serious fears for his 
personal safety. No more show of discipline was 
maintained among them, than is usual on board of 
a privateer ; — ^perhaps even less. They appeared to 
agree on only one point, which was, the contempt 
and hatred they felt, and openly expressed, for the 
Governor, and for all the French and Germans 
whom he had with him. 

Besides all this, there were five or six of the new 
republican privateers lying close opposite to Fer- 
nandina, with their respective prizes : this being 
the only port then open, to vessels of their descrip- 
tion, within an easy sail of the West Indies, 
where they generally cruized. These vessels car- 
ried chiefly Buenos Ayrean colours : there were a 
few, also, under the Venezuelan and Mexican flags ; 
and many that touched here were strongly sus- 
pected, on tolerable good grounds, of being little 
better than pirates. The crews, consisting of 
ruffians of all nations and hues of complexion, were 
constantly lounging about on shore, having, all of 
them, plenty of money : and the confusion and 
jiots, which they created, at all hours of the day and 



r 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 13 

night, may be better conceived than described. 
Almost every second building, throughout the 
town, was a liquor shop and dancing house ; and 
the excessive cheapness of wine, and spirits of all 
kinds, landed from the prizes, without restriction, 
together with the perfect equality subsisting be- 
tween the privateers'-men and their officers, when 
on shore, kept the place in one continued uproar. 
They used frequently to seize one of the newly ar- 
rived officers, and chair him, per force, round the 
Plaza; declaring loudly, that they would turn 
Aurrey and all his Frenchmen out of the island. 
The Governor, indeed, offered to lay down his 
command in favour of Col. McDonald ; but, from 
the specimen we had witnessed of the garrison's 
conduct, we begged leave to decline remaining 
there, on any terms whatever; alleging, as our 
motive for retiring, that as Sir Gregor McGre- 
gor had left the place, we thought it our ,duty 
to endeavour to join Bolivar as soon as possible, 
and to put ourselves under his orders without 
farther delay. The government of this island, or 
rather of the town of Fernandina, appeared by no 
means an enviable situation ; although there is 
little doubt that the Governors, as well as the other 
officers immediately under them, made a great 
deal of money by the sale of prize goods. These 
they could get a very cheap rate, and always man- 
aged to dispose of them to smugglers, who con- 
trived to introduce them into the United States, 
which are separated from Amelia Island only by 
the river St. Mary. M* Gregor, indeed, issued 
dollar and five dollar notes, which were ordered to 



14 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

be received at the custom house, in payment of a 
certain proportion of dues. It is superfluous to 
observe, that these notes were at a heavy discount 
on his leaving Femandina. 

The glaring irregularities constantly carried on 
at this island, as well as the bare-faced smuggling 
of every description, even of negroes,^ for which 
it was notorious, as well as the fact of its being a 
rendezvous for privateers, without even the pre- 
tence of a prize court to decide on the legality of 
their captures, became at last too great a nuisance 
for the Government of North America to tolerate 
in her neighbourhood. The Saranac, U. S. gun- 
brig, was consequently stationed close to the har- 
bour of Femandina ; with orders to keep a vigilant 
look out on all privateers, and their prizes, that 
should enter. At the same time, a negociation 
was opened, between the cabinet of Washington 
and the Court of Madrid, which ended in Amelia 
Island being formally ceded to the United States. 

On hearin<; from some American naval officers, 
who landed from tlieir brig to pay us a visit, that 
this arrangement was in contemplation, we took a 
hurried leave of General Aurrey, who was evident- 
ly very glad of the resolution we had formed ; and 
embarked again on board the same schooner which 
had brought us hither, and, luckily had not yet 
sailed. The Governor supplied us with excellent 
sea stores, of every description he could procure ; 
and we took our departure, congratulating our- 
selves mutually on our separation. He took little 
pains to conceal his exultation, at his deliverance 
from those he considered as rivals, and as likely to 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 15 

supersede him in his Government ; and we, on our 
side, were happy at parting from our friends the 
privateers<men, whose attentions had become ex- 
tremely annoying to us. The night previous to 
our sailing, some of them made prize of Captain 
Lane's best boat, and one of our officers'. Captain 
M'Mullin's, whole baggage, which happened to 
lie temptingly in the way, on the pier, waiting to 
be embarked. 

Not long after clearing the land, we encountered 
so severe a gale of wind, as to strain the hull of our 
small bark considerably ; besides doing much mis- 
chief in the rigging, which was all twice-laid. She 
at length leaked so fast, that we pumped out nearly 
her whole cargo of salt, and were under the necessity 
of coming to an anchor at the island of Grenada. 
Here the schooner was pronounced to be unfit to 
beat to windward as far as the entrance of the 
Orinoco ; although, with some repairs, she could run 
down the trades to Mobile. She was therefore 
sent thither in charge of the mate ; as Captain 
Lane preferred accompanying us, for the purpese 
of endeavouring to get a commission for a privateer 
from Bolivar; on which he appeared greatly to 
have set his heart, after having seen the success of 
those hopeful rovers we had met with at Amelia 
island. 



16 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



CHAPTER II. 

EMBARK IN A VENEZUELAN GUN-BRIO. — APPEARANCE OF THE 
COAST OF GUAYANA. — ENTRANCE OF THE ORINOCO. — 
SCENERY WITHIN THE RIVER. — ^MISSIONARIES* SETTLE- 
MENTS RIVER INDIANS TOWN OF GUAYANA LA VIEJA. 

BALL AT GOVERNOR SUCRE*S. — ADMIRAL BRION. 

We were here once more adrift, to use a nautical 
phrase. We, however, fortunately heard that a 
brig, just bought at Martinico for the service of 
Venezuela, was lying at Cariaco, a small island of 
the Grenadine group, close to Grenada ; and that 
she was on the point of sailing for the Orinoco. 
On sending a note to her Captain, a Frenchman, in 
which we explained our anxiety to get a passage to 
Angostura, he immediately came round to Grenada 
in " La Felicite^'' and received us on board. He 
was, indeed, very well pleased to get so good a 
reinforcement as we brought him ; and informed us 
that the river was still occasionally blockaded by 
small Spanish vessels, and that the chief mate of 
the ship, which had brought us from England, had^ ' 
been lately taken by a Royalist guarda-costa, in 
attempting to enter the Orinoco in an open boat ; 
and butchered by Gabazo, together with most of 
his men. As the brig sailed well, we were not long in 
beating to windward of the Grenadines, and passing 
between St. Lucie and St. Vincent's. We shortly 
after got sight of Barbados ; when the captain 
pronounced us sufficiently to the westward, to be 
ible to bear up for the entrance of the Orinoco. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 17 

The land along the coast of Guayana is remark- 
ably low, for a great extent towards the interior, 
from the sea-shore ; consequently it cannot be dis- 
covered, even from the mast-head of a vessel, until 
close to it. It then presents a singular fringed ap- 
pearance ; for nothing but the tops of the tall trees, 
by which the land is covered, are visible on the 
horizon, apparently floating in the air ; being seen 
through the medium of an atmosphere charged with 
watery vapours, raised, by the excessive heat of the 
climate, from a humid soil. The sameness of this 
line of coast, and the great number of entrances to 
the river, (seven of which are navigable,) render it 
extremely difficult to find the proper channel for 
hirge vessels. The Indians themselves, who inhabit 
the woods in the neighbourhood, are frequently 
bewildered among the intricate creeks. Although 
anchorage is to be found every where along the 
coast, the heavy ground-swell, approaching nearly 
to the nature of breakers in the abruptness^ of its 
rise, renders it dangerous for a vessel to anchor, 
unless she has a pilot on board, sufficiently acquainted 
with the situation of the bar, to take the vessel over 
it, if necessary, in case of parting the cable. We 
were, nevertheless, obliged to bring up outside the 
bar, as we made the land too late in the evening for 
endeavouring to cross it; because, although the 
channel between the island of Cangrejos and Punta 
de Barima is six or seven leagues across, the navi- 
gable partis little more than a mile broad. All the 
rest of the entrance is in very shoal water ; in con- 
sequence of the quantities of mud and gravel 
brought down by this great river, during the peri- 



18 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

odical inundations. During the night, the brig 
pitched so heavily to the short seas that were 
tumbling in, that we lost an anchor and cable ; and 
should in all probability have been driven on shore, 
but for a light land breeze, which enabled us to stand 
off-and-on until daylight. We then crossed the 
bar, in two fathoms and a half water, having been 
guided entirely by tlie soundings ; for we had no 
pilot, nor, indeed, any one on board who had ever 
entered the river before. On the shoals, here, 
many large trunks of trees are aground ; the banks 
they had ornamented for centuries having been 
undermined by the wintry floods. Some of them 
bore a striking resemblance, at a distance, to vessels 
at anchor, as their roots were embedded in the mud, 
and the force of the stream had raised the bare trunks 
to neai'ly an upright position. 

We at last succeeded in entering the main channel 
of the river, with a fair wind, without which it 
would be impossible for a vessel to ascend ; for the 
stream runs down at least four miles an hour, even 
where the land appears to be perfectly level. Thef e 
is, however, a constant favourable breeze in this, 
as in most great rivers, blowing during the day in 
a direction contrary to the stream. Occasionally, 
when the wind was contrary, for a short time, in 
consequence of the windings in the river, warps 
were easily carried out, and fastened to the trees 
along the banks ; by which means we speedily sur- 
mounted the obstacle, and recovered the fair wind. 

The scenery in this part of the river is strikingly 
beautiful ; and when viewed from a ship's deck, as 
she glides slowly along the smooth water, presents 



CABIPA16NS AND CRUISES. 19 

a magnificent moving panorama. The banks, on 
each side, are covered with impervious forests of 
mi^estic trees ; chained, as it were, to each other 
by the bejucOy or gigantic creeping plant of South 
America, which grows to the thickness of an ordi- 
nary cable. These ancient trees, when decayed 
through length of years, (for the axe of the woods- 
man has never yet resoanded in these wilds) are 
supported upright by these enormous plants, which 
bear a striking resemblance to the huge water-snakes 
that lurk in the swamps beneath. There are many 
other parasitical plants, which bear flowers of various 
brilliant colours, forming festoons on the trees to 
which they cling. Among the branches, monkeys 
of every description gambol, and follow the vessel, 
springing from tree to tree by means of the hejticoy 
which has obtained from this circumstance its Indian 
name of "monkey's ladder." The most conspi- 
cuous, among this mischievous tribe, is the araguato, 
a large red monkey, always seen in heMs, the young 
ones clinging to their mother's shoulders. These 
are very destructive among the plantations, where 
they pull up and destroy more roots and fruit, than 
they eat or carry away. Their howling, during 
the night, is much louder than could be supposed 
possible, considering the size of the animal. The 
noise they make may be easily fancied to proceed 
from panthers, or other large beasts of prey. Tliis 
is so much the case, that after leaving Angostura 
with the army, three English soldiers who had de- 
serted, (when the troops landed in the evening for 
the purpose of cooking,) and who proposed return- 
ing by land to the city, were so terrified by the 



20 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

noises made by these animals in the middle of the 
night, that they hailed the boats which had anchored 
out in the stream, and begged to be taken on board 
again ; declaring that they were surrounded by tigers. 
Parrots and macaws, with tucdns and other birds 
of beautiful plumage, complete this splendid picture, 
and fill the air with their discordant screams, to 
which the metallic note of the darra, or bell-bird, 
responds at measured intervals ; at one moment 
sounding close to the ear, and the next dying away 
in the distance. Up the small creeks, which are 
completely embowered by magnificent evergreens, 
are seen pelicans, spoon-bills, and garzons, or gi- 
gantic cranes, all busily employed in fishing. When 
to this is added the occasional appearance of that 
tyrant of the stream, the alligator, floating in con- 
scious superiority among the bulky manads^ and the 
more agile toninos, which are incessantly rising and 
blowing in shoals, the scene altogether may be ima- 
gined, but caAnot be adequately described. 

The first village we came to, by name Sacop^no, 
is inhabited entirely by Indians, who have been 
civilized, and converted to Christianity, by the 
Spanish missionaries ; chiefly Capuchins and Fran- 
ciscan friars. These priests have been very suc- 
cessful in inducing the Indians to settle in villages, 
and cultivate the land, instead of leading a wandering 
life, and trusting to the precarious subsistence 
obtained by hunting and fishing. The settlements, 
called by the general term of Misiones, are between 
twenty and thirty in number; scattered over the 
interior of this country, wherever the land, rising 
above the swamps, afl^ords ground proper for culti- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 21 

vation. Eiach village consists of a Plaza or public 
square ; alongside of which is the church and the 
Padre's house : the remainder is occupied by a large 
bodega, or storehouse, and neat cottages built of 
bambu, and thatched with the leaves of the morichi 
pahn, one for every separate family ; — all having 
gardens of vegetables in the rear. 

The Indians inhabiting the Misiones are entirely 
under the guidance of the Padres, whose orders 
are enforced by Alcaldes,' chosen from among 
the natives themselves. These deputed Magis- 
trates bear a silver-headed cane, as a badge of 
office, and are exempt from any public labour ; 
' but all the other males are obliged to assist in cul- 
tivating the ground, while the females are employed 
in making coarse cotton stuffs, grass hammocks, 
soap, candles, &c. The whole produce of their 
united industry is brought into the common bodega; 
and is distributed by the Padre of each M ision, in 
such portions as are necessary for the support of 
the respective families. Part of the surplus is paid, 
as an annual contribution, to the Government at 
Angostura; and the remainder is sold, or bartered 
for other articles, which they cannot themselves 
procure ; such as clothing, and agricultural imple- 
ments. As for their religious improvement, it is 
much to be feared that it is entirely confined to the 
observance of the ceremonies enjoined them by 
their Roman Catholic instructors. To these, it is 
true, they strictly attend ; but the missionaries 
themselves cannot boast of any farther religious 
progress. 

The wild or uncivilized Indians, who inhabit 



22 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

this part of the Orinoco, pass the greatest part of 
their time in canoes on the water; and subsist 
chiefly on flsh and turtle, which are in general 
plentiful, except during the season of the floods. 
They build their huts, which resemble large nests 
made of wicker and plastered with clay, among the 
spreading branches of large trees, on the banks of 
some retired creek ; for, during half the year, the 
low country they inhabit is completely inundated 
by the wintry floods. These continue long at their 
height ; for the Orinoco, and the rivers that supply 
it, are fed not only by the tropical rains, but by the 
melting of the snows in the Cordillera. Even in 
the height of summer, the ground is never suffi- 
ciently dry to admit of building habitations on it; 
for the mid-day sun can hardly penetrate these 
thick forests. We had as yet seen none of this 
nation, sufiiciently near to distinguish their features 
and di-ess, having only caught occasional glimpses 
of them, as they paddled their canoes i^pidly from 
one creek to another. Shortly after leaving Saco- 
pano, however, our curiosity was fully gratified. 

Not having as yet been able to obtain a pilot for 
the river, we grounded, about dusk, on a sand bank 
in the middle of the stream ; and, while we were 
laying ont a kedge, by which we hoped to heave the 
brig ofl^, we were surrounded by canoes that paddled 
out of the neighbouring creeks, each light vessel 
carrying five or six Indians. We were at first 
apprehensive that their numbers would encourage 
them to be troublesome ; but soon found that they 
were merely attracted by curiosity, as well as to 
offer for sale fish and wild fruits. They did not 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 23 

attempt to come on board, until invited ; and then 
behaved with the greatest propriety. Nor did they 
offer to touch anything without permission ; although 
every article they saw in our possession was evident- 
ly perfectly new to the greater part of them; their 
former masters, the Spaniards, rarely condescending 
to admit them on board their vessels, except to com- 
pel them to work. One aged Indian, who appeared to 
be a Cacique by the authority he exerted over the 
rest, was very useful to us, as he understood a little 
Spanish. On the hedge being laid out, he directed 
those of his people who were on board to assist in 
palling in the hawser ; which they did cheerfully 
and powerfolly, and we soon floated off the shoal 
into deep water. They were fine looking, tall, 
muscular men ; apparently very mild in their man- 
ners. Their long coarse hair hung down, neatly 
combed, so as to cover their shoulders ; and their 
bodies were almost entirely naked. 

The first place of any consequence, on the Ori- 
noco, is the town and fort of Guayana la Vieja, 
situated about 180 miles in a direct line from Punto 
de Barima ; but at least 70 leagues by water, if we 
take into account the windings of the river. It 
had been lately taken by the patriot General Ber- 
mudez, who attacked by the land side, and was 
supported by Admiral Brion, with his squadron of 
gun-boats, by the river. Although it soon became 
evident that the fall of the place was inevitable, the 
remains of the Spanish garrison refused to capitu- 
late ; being, probably, conscious that they had 
been always in the habit of refusing quarter to 
patriot prisoners. Three hundred troops shut them- 



24 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

selves into the mins of the fort, which they were 
incapable of defending : their place of retreat was 
taken by storm ; and they were cut off to a man. 
Their remains were still lying unburied when we 
visited this place ; and gave us the first specimen 
of the horrors of " Gverra d la Mtierta" 

This town is situated on a commanding eminence, 
at a bend of the river ; and, if the fort were in 
repair, it would effectually annoy any enemy's 
vessel that might attempt sailing up. It has, how- 
ever, been long dismantled, although the town is 
still honoured by having a Governor ; and is an 
important post, on account of the cattle and refresh- 
ments it can supply to the gun-boats stationed in 
the river, and to vessels in general entering or 
sailing. 

The inhabitants of Old Guayana were extremely 
well pleased at our arrival, as we were among the 
first English who had arrived to join Bolivar ; and 
the Governor, father to the late celebrated Maris- 
cal de campo Don Antonio Jose Sucr^, gave a ball 
on the occasion, which was very well attended. 
Not only was every room in his house crowded, 
but the doors and windows were thronged with 
natives of all classes, and of every intermediate 
shade of complexion, between the soi-disant white 
criole, and the coast-of- Guinea negro ; a great 
majority being rather of the darker casts. We, the 
foreign guests, were all soon separated from one 
another, and compelled to form each the centre of 
a gazing and exclaiming circle of Guayanezes 
Our new friends fortunately asked too many quep 
tions, at one and the same time, about politics, f 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 25 

to render any answer necessary, or even possible. 
They therefore spared us the mortification of con- 
fessing how slight our acquaintance was with the 
Spanish language. 

After considerable exertion on the part of our 
host, room was obtained for the dancers, who per- 
formed several national fandangos, quite new to us, 
and, apparently, peculiar to the country ; such as the 
Bambucoy Zajudtna^ and Marri-marri. At length, / 
when they began to tire of these, a young Criollo 
rose, and demanded room. After dancing round 
the room by himself for a minute or two, he figured 
up to a lady, to whom he made a bow, and retired. 
She immediately tose, performed the same evolu- 
tions, and stopped opposite to one of our party, 
curtsying by way of calling on him to exhibit in 
turn. This caused an universal burst of delight 
among the spectators, and our companion, after in 
vun protesting that he knew nothing of the dance, 
was fairly pushed into the centre of the floor by 
the laughing brunettes. He was of course obliged 
to acquit himself as well as he could, amidst shouts 
of applause, and " Vivan los IngUzes /" We were 
all of us called upon in turn to shew our paces, 
with wluch we complied, to their great amusement ; 
and were warmly complimented on our readiness 
to join in their dances, contrary to the fastidious 
custom of the Spanish officers. The music — if it 
merits the name — consisted of several vihuelas^ (a 
small kind of guitars,) and harps, in time to which 
half a dozen professed singers screamed some unin- 
telligible couplets at the top of their voices. These 
nunstrels and troubadours were accompanied by 

c 



/ 



26 'CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

rattles, made of bollow calabashes, containing some 
grains of maiz ; with short handles, by which they 
were shaken ; also by several women who, seated 
round a table, vied with each other in tamboreandoy 
or beating time with their open hands. 

We were glad to escape from this scene of con- 
fusion ; the dance and mirth becoming more '* fast 
and furious," as the aqimrdientey a spirit distilled in 
the country, was handed round liberally, and began 
to take effect. Besides, we were as yet unused to 
breathe the atmosphere of tobacco smoke that in- 
variably fills these ball rooms ; every individual 
having, on these occasions, either a cigar or chu- 
rumhela ^ in his or her mouth, which they do not 
think of laying aside, even while dancing. It is, 
indeed, considered a compliment, to be presented 
by a lady with a cigar that she has half smoked ; 
and it would be an unpardonable affront to refiise 
it. Supper was at last announced. It consisted 
chiefly of roast beef, cut into long narrow slices, 
and plantains ; with cheese and honey, which is a 
very favourite dish in most parts of South America. 
None of the guests sat down to table, nor were 
knives produced ; as every thing that requires to 
be cut up is carved in the kitchen. We also found 
it was not customary for any individual to help 
himself, but each lady presented a morsel on a fork 
to a gentleman, who, in return, handed her some- 
thing delicate, that happened to be placed near him 
on the table. "We were warned to beware of 
refusing anything offered us ; and, in compliance 
with the fashion of the place, persevered most 
politely, in spite of fatigue, heat, and a total disin- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 27 

dination to a hot meat sapper in this climate. At 
last, one of our party, who had heen particularly 
annoyed hy the mischievous attentions of the 
Gnayanesas, presented one of the most active of 
his tormentors with a pod of red pepper. As she, 
of course, declined eating it, we soon ohtained a 
truce, on threatening that we would all follow his 
example. 

An Indian hammock, of soft grass net, was pro- 
vided for each of us under the corredors^ and in an 
adjoining orange grove. In these we rested soundly, 
with very little disturbance from the mosquitos. 
We were, however, occasionally awoke by the 
shrill cry of '* Centinela cUertaT* echoed from 
sentry to sentry round the town : this sound, 
though then so new to us, was shortly to become 
too familiar to disturb our rest. The next day, after 
a dinner at Governor Sucre's house, he provided us 
with launches to proceed up the river, to Santo 
Tomas; where he assured us we should arrive 
much sooner by this mode of conveyance, than by 
the brig, which the rapidity of the current would 
delay long on her passage. 

In the night, we met several g^n-boats going 
down the river on a cruise. On board of one of 
these was the Venezuelan Admiral, Don Luis 
Brion, who was on his way to Pampatar, in the 
island of Mai^arita, where his ship lay. On hear- 
ing that CoL McDonald was in the leading launch 
of our convoy, Don Luis came alongside to salute 
him, and to enquire if he could be of any service to 
us. He was a middle-aged man, about five feet 
and a half in height, of a spare but muscular frame. 

c2 



28 CAMPAIGNS AND CBUISE8. 

His complexion was dark, and he wore thick 4)lack 
moustachios ; his features were rather of the Jewish 
cast, and deeply pitted with small-pox. -This 
officer was a native of Curazoa, of Irish descent, 
his ancestors' name having heen O'Brien. He 
amassed a large sum of money, while in the com- 
mand of the patriot navy ; as, by his orders, all 
prizes were brought to the island of Margarita, to 
be condemned and sold. There was, consequently, 
no chance of competition ; so that his agent always 
purchased the vessels for a trifle. Brion after- 
wards disposed of them to advantage ; by which 
means, together with his pay and share of prize 
money, as Admiral, he was soon enabled to leave 
the service, and retire on a good fortune. 



CHAPTER III. 

CITY OF ANGOSTURAS. — PERIODICAL INUKDATI0N8 OF TCT 

ORINOCO. ALAMEDA. GOVERNOR'S PALACE— LAGOON 

THE CAUSE OF FEVERS. — BOLIVAR'S QUINTA. — PLOT OF 
THE LADIES TO ASSASSINATE BOLIVAR. — ^EXECUTION OF 
GENERAL HAR. — TREACHERY OF GENERAL ZEDENO.— GUN 
BOATS ON THE RIVER. 

The journey offered nothing more, worthy of 
remark, until we arrived at the city of Sto. Tomat. 
This is the capital of the province of Gnayana, 
and was at that time the seat of Government in 
Venezuela, although the Congress had not as yet 
been assembled. This city is commonly called 
Angosturas, from the narrowness of the river in 
that part ; it not being more than about two milei 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 29 

IB breadth, and from sixty to seventy fathoms deep. 
This diminution in breadth is caused by the high 
rocky land, which projects into the river, both on 
the Guayana and Barcelona sides. Its course is 
still farther obstructed by two islands ; one in the 
centre, and the other near the right bank. The 
Orinoco is, consequently, very rapid and turbulent 
at this place ; so much so, as to render the passage 
across it dangerous ; especially during the season 
of the floods, which commence in April, reach their 
height in June and July, and afterwards gradually 
sabside. These inundations are occasioned in the 
spring of the year, in consequence of the melting 
of the snows on the mountains, near the source of 
the Orinoco and its tributary streams ; and are 
swelled to their height by the heavy rains, that fall 
at the time of the sun*s approaching, and passing, 
the Equinoctial line. Some idea may be formed 
of the immense body of water that the Orinoco dis- 
embogues, by the fact of its rising, at the Angostu- 
ras, upwards of ninety feet above its usual level; and 
that the stream runs there, in the centre, at the rate 
of about eight miles an hour. The low country, on 
both sides, is overflowed at this time, for many 
leagues from the banks ; giving the savannas the 
appearance of an inland sea. The wild cattle and 
horses, which abound iii these plains, are driven by 
the flood from their accustomed pastures, to the 
higher ground, to sleep and rest. They, neverthe- 
less, graze all day in the meadows, which are in- 
fested at this time by innumerable alligators and 
water-snakes, both of which destroy yearly num- 
bers of young calves and colts. Many beasts are 



30 CAl^fPAIONS AND CRUISES. 

drowned; being surrounded so suddenly by the 
waters, as not to be able to effect a retreat. 

The city of Santo Tomas is built on the face of a 
rock, which rises, by a steep ascent, from the river to 
a small fort on the brow of the hill, commanding the 
anchorage, and the road from the country. The 
views from this fort are beautiful, in whatever direc- 
tion they are seen. They extend, across the river, 
to the provinces of Barcelona and Cumana ; and , 
on the Guayana side, over pastures covered with 
cattle, and country houses surrounded by planta- 
tions. In the bosom of a shady grove, just below 
the fort, is a picturesque little convent, which has 
been deserted by its religious inhabitants, and was 
converted into an hospital for the army. The 
streets of the city are all very steep, with the ex- 
ception of that along the river side. This is by far 
the pleasantest, both on account of the delightful 
view it commands, and the cool breeze from the 
water. Almost all these houses have verandas, and 
look remarkably well from the river ; being all fre- 
quently white -washed. The handsomest is the 
Almiranteria, or Admiral's house, which is also the 
largest in the city, except the Governor's palace. 
It is kept remarkably neat, being occupied by a 
Scots merchant, of the name of Hamilton, who 
was a great favourite of Bolivar, for his hospitality, 
and devotion to the cause of " La Patria." The 
Government of Venezuela owed him considerable 
sums for arms, and stores of various descriptions, 
with which he had supplied the army ; and made 
over to him, in part payment of this debt, the 
surplus produce of several Misiones, which was 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 31 

r^nlarly sent up the river to him in launches, for 
some time. These settlements, however, had lat- 
terly become very unproductiye, in comparison to 
what they had been ; the small-pox baring made 
terrible ravages among the Indians, and totally 
depopnlated some entire districts in the interior of 
Gnayana. Some missions, also, had lost their spi- 
ritual and temporal directors ; Bolivar having been 
driven to the necessity of banishing, and even of 
shooting, some of these friars, on account of their 
obstinacy in persisting, after repeated recommenda- 
tions and threats, in preaching to the Indians, the 
divine right of Fernando 7mo., and in warning 
them of the great guilt of rebellion against his 
authority. This conduct had, in many instances, 
caused dangerous disturbances among them. * Im- 
mediately in front of the Admiral's house, is a 
natural basin, or floatinii; dock, surrounded by rocks. 
In this all the Government gun-boats and launches 
moor ; and the fishing piraguas and canoes fre- 
quently take shelter during the hurricane months, 
when the Orinoco is threatened with a chuvasco. 

The Custom-house stands also close to the river ; 
and lower down on the banks is the Ala>-ieda, a 
pleasant retired walk, shaded with two rows of 
aged trees. Promenades of this sort (which take 
their name from the alamos^ or poplar trees, that 
are always planted along them,) are to be found 
close to almost every town, of any size, in South 
America; and are really essentially necessary to 
the health of the inhabitants. Were it not for 
some public rendezvous, where every one is to be 
met with, in the delightful evenings that succeed 



32 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the sultry tropical days of this climate, the Criollo9, 
who, though fond of amusement, are naturally 
indolent, would take no exercise whatever, except 
that of dancing. 

The Plaza, ^ or principal square, is very awk- 
wardly situated, heing huilt on the slope of the 
hill, on a piece of irregular ground, about half-way 
up the ascent. It contains the shell of a cathedral, 
commenced on a large scale, which has remained 
unfinished in consequence of the civil war, and of 
poverty, its inevitable attendant, both in church 
and state. The palace, which stands opposite, is a 
plain brick building, of one story in height. In the 
saloon, the Congress of the Republic was subse- 
quently assembled ; and continued its sessions here, 
until the union of Venezuela vnih. New Grenada 
in the year 1820, when it was transferred to Nra. 
Senora del Rosario de Cilicuta. This builiting 
having been erected on a steep declivity, present! 
a very irregular appearance, and seems in dangei 
of falling at the first shock of an earthquake ; — a 
calamity which is here but of too frequent occur- 
rence. The upper side of the plaza is formed b) 
the calabozoy or prison, and the barracks; the 
lower, by a large house, formerly the seat of th< 
Inquisition in Spanish Guayana, but then inhabitec 
by General Santiago Mariuo, Governor of the 
province. Next to this last is a small chapel ; the 
only place of public worship in Angostura. 

To the west of the city is a lagoon, filled ever] 
year by the rising of the river, by means of the smal 
canal at the end of the Alameda. While this lagooi 
is full, the place is tolerably healthy, notwithstand 




CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 33 

h&g the excessive heat felt here all the year round. 
But, when the floods have suhsided, and the water 
begins to diminish by evaporation, this swamp 
exhales the most pestilential miasmata, from both 
vegetable and animal putrefaction. The lower 
order of inhabitants, particularly the half civilized 
Indians, have frequently been known to throw their 
dead into the lagoon, rather than be at the trouble 
ef canying them to the Campo Santo^ or burying- 
ground, outside the fort, on the top of the hill. 
The yellow fever, and other contagious diseases, 
then begin to make their appearance, and annually 
sweep away hundreds; especially of foreigners. 
It is more than probable, that a salutary effect would 
ensue, if the lagoon were drained. This might 
^i]ybe accofnplished; its bottom being much higher 
tban the surface of the river, except during the 
^oods. This annual scourge is evidently not the 
effect of climate, but of the above-mentioned local 
cause ; for, at the very time that sickness prevails 
ia Angosturas, the village of La Soledad, on the 
bank immediately opposite, is perfectly healthy ; 
although all the cattle consumed in the neighbour- 
hood, or cut up to make tazajo, ^ are slaughtered 
there. 

Beyond the lagoon are many pleasant rides, 
among the plantations and Quintas. One of these, 
called el Morichal, from the Morichi palm trees 
that grow round it, was the place where Bolivar 
concealed himself, the night previous to his intended 
assassination by the ladies of Angostura. 

On the evening before this atrocious attempt was 
to have been made, Bolivar received private in- 

c 3 



( 



« 



34 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISC8. 

formation, Cfrom a quarter on which he could 
depend,) that the ladies of this place, all of whom 
were noted royalists, had formed a conspiracy to 
surround him on his return from early mass, (which 
lie always attended on Sundays, with only a single 
aide-de-camp,) and to stab him with poniards, which 
they were to carry concealed under their mantillas. 
Is was also hinted to him, that the soldiers, who 
were on guard at the palace, had been tampered 
with, and were not to be trusted. He immediately, 
without acquainting even his secretary, sent for 
an English officer lately arrived, 7 and enquired 
if he thought that the British soldiers, a few of 
whom were in Angostura, waiting for boats to con- 
vey them up the river to join the army, might be 
trusted, in a matter on which much depended. The 
officer assuring him that he would answer for their 
fidelity, Bolivar directed him to collect as many as 
lie could immediately ; to take them out of the city, 
by an unfrequented path that leads round the lagoon ; 
and, leaving them there, to meet him at a small 
door, almost overgrown with briars, which opens 
at the back of the palace. The officer, quite ignorant 
as yet of what was about to occur, collected about 
a dozen Englishmen, and posted them where he 
had been directed. He then hastened to the gate, 
where he found Bolivar waiting for him, muffled in 
a cloak. Don Simon led the way, avoiding every 
place where sentries were usually posted; and, 
being joined by the party of Englishmen, proceeded 
to his quinta of Morichal. There he explained to 
the officer the danger he was in, and his reason for 
entrusting himself to foreigners, rather than to his 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 35 

own countrymen. Bolivar went down to the Ori- 
noco at day-break, and crossed over to the Barcelona 
side, where he joined a division of the army under 
the command of Greneral Monagas. He never in- 
stituted any enquiry, nor took any farther notice of 
this conspiracy ; probably thinking it most prudent 
to avoid making such a circumstance, as his unpo- 
ptdarity among the Guayanezas, generally known. 
The front of the palace, at this city, was the scene 
of the execution of General Piar. He was a man 
of colour ; and, as was naturally to be expected, 
almost all his officers and soldiers were blacks and 
zambos. This circumstance, in all probability, 
gave rise to the accusation brought against him, of 
having entertained a design of massacring all the 
white population of Venezuela, and of forming a 
republic of blacks. This report, though almost too 
extravagant for belief, was, nevertheless, made the 
ground of a serious accusation against him by his 
enemies ; and, no matter whether it was credited or 
not, he was cited by Bolivar to surrender himself at 
Angostura, for trial by a general court-martial. At 
this period, every general in the Venezuelan service 
had a separate army, and a guard of honour, ^ which 
was entirely under his orders, and would acknow- 
ledge no other authority, but his. Piar, aware of 
the jealousy with which he, being then the only black 
general in the service, was regarded, and well 
knowing that the members to be chosen for the 
court-martial would be all inimical to him, resolved 
to pay no attention to this order, and was supported 
in his determination by his arpiy. Finding it im- 
possible to compel his attendance, without having 



36 CAMPAIGNS ANB CRUISES. 

recourse to actual force, which the weak state oi 
the patriot arms rendered at that time imprudent, 
General Zedeiio volunteered to betray him into the 
power of those who were determined on his death. 
This man was Piar*s compadrey ^ a bond of affinity, 
which is considered in South America as sacred 
Therefore, on going to the mulato camp unattended, 
he was received cordially, and without suspicion 
He told Piar, that Bolivar wished to have an inter- 
. J, view with him ; solemnly declaring, that all thoughts 

^i of the threatened court-martial had been given up ; 

J and pledging his faith, that after the interview was 

i over, he should be at full liberty to return unmo- 

I lested to his command. Piar, confiding in his as- 

surances, and, as is believed, conscious of his own 
innocence, determined on presenting himself at 
Angostura, greatly against the desires and entreatiei 
of his army. He had, indeed, great difficulty t( 
prevail on his body guard to su£Per him to set oui 
unattended ; for they insisted on their right to ac< 
company him, wherever he went. On his arrival ai 
the capital, he was immediately put under clos< 

i arrest. He then found that Bolivar had left the 

place; and that Santiago Mariuo, one of his mosi 
inveterate enemies, was in command. Notwith 
standing allhis remonstrances against such treachery 
and breach of faith, a court martial was assembled, 
which, after a short consultation, found him guilty 
and sentenced him to be shot. He received hit 
sentence without surprise, and submitted to his fat< 
with fortitude ; having obtained leave, as the onlj 
favour he would ask^ to give the last word of com- 
mand himself. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 37 

Whatever may have been the trath, with regard 
to the charges brought against him, the treachery 
of Zedeno will ever stain his character. It was 
the very same wretch who so cruelly treated a Span- 
ish officer, his prisoner, giving him a horse to make 
his escape across the plains, and at the same time 
threatening to kill him, if he again fell into his 
hands ; then, having followed him a few minutes 
after, lancing him in cold blood. This action has 
been laid, but unjustly, to General Paez's charge. 

The heat of Angostura being very great, we 
were extremely glad when the order was given to 
embark in a small flotilla of gun boats and launches, 
that had been assembled to convey a division of 
troops, under General Urdaneta, up the river, for 
the purpose of joining the army that Bolivar was 
collecting in the Llanosy or plains of the Apuri. 
These launches, which carry from forty to fifty 
persons each, are large clumsy boats, with but one 
mast and lug sail. They have, also, a caroza, or 
awning, in the stem sheets, built of branches and 
generally covered with raw hides. Besides these, 
there were several Jlecheras attending on the ex- 
pedition ; in one of which. General Urdaneta used 
frequently to embark with an aide-de-camp. These 
last are large long canoes, cut out very light and 
sharp, pulled by twelve or more Indians, who sit 
single banked, with paddles, so rapidly as to merit 
the name they bear, which signifies arrow-boats. 
They are each furnished with a low narrow shed, 
giving barely room for two persons to sit up> 
right. Brig^ may, and have ascended the Orinoco 
18 far as CaJ^cara ; but this mode of conveyance is 



38 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

tedious, on account of the shifting shoals, on which 
a vessel that draws much water cannot avoid get- 
ting often aground ; and of being obliged to warp 
from tree to tree, in every winding of the river 
where the wind is unfavourable, and to anchor 
during calms ; whereas the launches, with from 
twelve to twenty oars, can at all times proceed. It 
is also dangerous, in consequence of the violent 
chuvascos, or squalls of wind, that frequently blow 
on the river ; rushing so suddenly from the hills in 
the neighbourhood of its banks, as barely to give 
time for a launch to let fly the only sail it carries. 
These gusts would inevitably either dismast, or 
overset any vessel with lofty sails, before they 
could be clewed up. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE ORINOCO ABOVE ANGOSTURA. — ^WATER SNAKES. — BIVOUACS 

ON THE BANKS. — ^TURTLE ZANCUDOS. — SNAKE CATCHERS. 

— ELECTRIC EEL, OR TBMBLADOR, — MAN ATI. —DANGEROUS 
PASS OFTHERFTER. — RUINED VILLAGES. — RIVER PIRATES. — 
MURDER OF COLONEL M*DONALD. — VILLAGE OF CAUJARAL. 
— DESCRIPTION OF THE ALLIGATOR. — OFFICER KILLED BY 
A CAYMAN. 

The banks of the river, above Angostura, assume 
a very different character from those below, the 
neighbouring country being higher, in many places, 
and free from wood. They aflFord occasionally, a view 
of well watered savannas, extending as far as the 
'^ye can reach, and enlivened by innumerable herds 
P wild cattle and horses. The boats were con- 



/" 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 39 

stantly passing among small islands, shaded with 
trees, and covered with the most luxuriant vegeta- 
tion. Many of these islands are visited in the dry 
season by herds of deer, which swim to them from 
the main land, to enjoy the shade they afford, 
and, very probably, to escape the panthers and 
jaguars, that infest the borders of ail the streams. 

In this part of the Orinoco we repeatedly saw 
water snakes, swimming from one island to another; 
and in some instances they passed over the boats, 
to the great alarm of the passengers, but without 
attempting to do any mischief. They are of a 
light green colour, six or eight feet long, and swim 
with about a third of their body raised out of the 
water ; propelling themselves rapidly along by the 
undulating motion of their tail. We were informed, 
by the boatmen, that their prey consisted chiefly of 
water-rats and young birds. The patrons of the 
launches always endeavour to avoid sailing under 
the trees that overhang the river, lest the mast might 
detach some of the snakes from the branches. We 
frequently saw numbers of them, exhibiting the 
most brilliant colours, while basking in the sun on 
the trees. The rattle-snake, or cascaveiy was gene- 
rally among them, and is found about eight feet in 
length and proportionately thick. 

During the day, we enjoyed a breeze, which 
enabled us to stem the current slowly, but steadily ; 
and when it fell calm in the evening, the troops 
were landed upon some sand bank, to cook their 
provisions, and to sleep. The scene, on these 
occasions, was most animating. The men, re- 
joicing in the opportunity of exercising their limbs 



40 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

freely, after having been all day cramped in the 
very small space allotted them on board the boats 
dispersed themselves, in every direction, in searcl 
of dry wood, which is to be found in abundant 
along the banks. A cheerful looking range of firei 
was shortly kindled, in front of the gun-boats ; anc 
rations of tazqjo and biscuit having, been servec 
out, cooking commenced on all sides. Most of the 
natives are musicians and singers ; and few of the 
groups round the fires were unprovided with a 
vihtLcla, with which they accompanied their national 
songs. These are usually chanted in a wild recita- 
tive, which breaks out abruptly at a high pitch of 
the voice, after a rather monotonous symphony on 
the guitar, repeated between every verse. Each 
!« singer was emulously answered by another, from a 

7 distant part of the bank, or from one of the gun- 

boats ; which, with a guard in each, lay at a short 
distance from the shore, to prevent depredations 
during the night. 

We were generally successful in procuring fish 
' and turtle from the Indians ; and we found taracay's 

j eggs ^^ in plenty, on most of the sand banks. This 

i. species of turtle lays about eighty eggs in a shallow 

hole, which she scrapes by night in the sand, and 
> smooths over with her paws, so completely, that it 

i would be impossible to discover this nest, were it 

not for her footsteps being visible the next morn- 
ing, before the rising wind dries the bank and 
obliterates them. The eggs are round, and nearly 
the size of a billiard ball. They are covered with 
a tough membrane, resembling parchment, and 
sontain an excellent yolk, with scarcely any albu- 



JL 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 41 

men. The flesh of the turtle found in the Orinoco 
is much superior, in flavour, to that of the hawks- 
bill species, so common on the W. coast of Mexico, 
which it closely resembles, except that the head is 
smaller, and that it has webbed paws in stead of fins. 

The soft sand, on these banks, would make a 
most luxurious couch, were it not for the incessant 
persecution of the zanctidoy or mosquito. This 
nightly tormentor is really a serious annoyance ; 
and continues its attacks, without intermission, until 
the morning. Although much about the size and 
appearance of the English may-gnat, its proboscis 
is capable of penetrating through blankets, cloaks, 
and clothing of any description ; causing frequently 
great inflammation, and, in some instances, trouble- 
some ulcers. It even pierces through the hides of 
horses and cows ; and seems to prefer their blood to 
that of mankind. This predeliction has given rise 
to a common custom among the natives, in the 
cattle farms, of sleeping in the corral, or pen, 
among the cows ; as being there, in a great degree, 
free from the attacks of this insect. We were often 
compelled to take refuge from it in the smoke of 
the fires, on which the boatmen purposely heap 
green wood. The remedy, it must be owned, is 
nearly as unpleasant as the evil it is meant to avert. 

Another method is also recommended by the na- 
tives ; which is, to retire quietly, about a hundred 
yards from any company, and to lie down in silence. 
This expedient succeeds very well, but is not a 
very advisable experiment in bivouacs on the Ori- 
noco ; for the apprehension of a panther lurking 
Aear, or of a visit from an alligator or a water- 



42 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

snake during the night, (than which nothing is 
more likely to occor,) takes away every chance of 
sleep, and soon compels a return to the deserted 
fire. When the zarwvdo retires, the diminutive 
sand-fly hegins its attacks, from which there is no 
chance of a respite during the day. A small spot 
is left by it at every puncture, remaining visible a 
considerable time, and causing great inflammation 
and sweUing on the ancles and wrists, on which it 
principally settles. 

While enumerating these tormenting insects, com- 
prehended, by the natives, under the expressive 
^ term, plaga, we must not forget to mention the 
nigua^ commonly called chegoe in the Honduras, 
and West Indian islands. Being much smaller than 
a flea, it can with ease escape detection while in- 
sinuating itself between the outer skin and cutis. 
Although it usually attacks the toes and soles of 
the feet, it will occasionally bury itself in any part, 
even in the eyelids. The eggs, which it contains, 
shortly swell its abdomen to the size of a pea, though 
it was previously almost invisible ; and it must 
then be extracted, if possible, without breaking the 
thin skin which encloses the ovary. If the insect 
be permitted to burst of itself, and leave its eggs 
behind, or if the sore caused by it be improperly 
treated, mortification and the loss of the foot, if not 
of life, is frequently the consequence, as many of 
our poor countrymen found, who were fond of 
lounging in sick-quarters. It is very destructive 
in the dairy farms to the young calves, which are 
kept constantly tied up. It penetrates in swarms 
into their nostrils, so far upwards, as to render it 



I 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 43 

impossible to extract them, or even to apply the 
decoction^ or the ashes of tobacco ; both which are 
found to be specifics in ordinary cases* The calves, 
thus attacked, die a lingering death ; for the farmers 
are rarely so compassionate as to kill them, when 
in this state. They keep them to the very last, as 
the only efiectnal means of ensuring the wild cow's 
return, from the savannas to the corral, at the milk- 
ing time. 

The garrapaUiy or tick, is another of those many 
nuisances, which perpetually remind the traveller, 
especially if he be an Englishman, of the comforts 
of a land where such annoyances are unknown. 
This little insidious enemy lurks in every bush, 
and clings to the clothes, by myriads, at every land- 
ing place. It g^ves no pain by its bite, and gener- 
ally contrives to adhere to the skin, unobserved, 
until it has fattened to the size of a small pea. 
As it buries its head, completely, wherever it bites, 
it suffers its body to be dragged away, without re- 
laxing its gripe. The puncture, consequently, fes- 
ters, and often proves a troublesome sore. One 
fourth, at a moderate computation, of the domesti- 
cated horses in the Llanos, lose their ears by the 
attacks of these animals, and become dull, unsightly 

Among the many medicinal and poisonous plants 
growing on the banks of the Orinoco, one of the 
most singular is a species of h^ucoy which, when 
properly administered, proves a powerful preserva- 
tive from the eflfects attending the bite of every 
description of poisonous serpents. It even appears 
to deprive these reptiles either of the power, or in- 



1 

I 



4<4 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

clination, to use their fangs. Some of the leaves 
and small branches are pounded, and applied in that 
state, as a cataplasm to both arms ; the skin having 
been previously scarified freely above the elbows. 
This species of inoculation is repeated, at stated in- 
tervals; the juice of the bruised plant, diluted with 
water, being also occasionally drank. Several sol- 
diers, belonging to General Zedeno's division, had 
undergone this treatment, and frequently made the 
advantage they had thus acquired useful on a march. 
They were thereby enabled to take shelter in de- 
serted huts, which we dared not enter on account 
of the snakes always lurking in such places; although 
these men could bring them out in their hands, 
without sustaining any injury. As they had been 
for some time in our company, we could ascertain 
that they had not any snakes in their possession 
concealed for the purpose of deception. Besides, 
they could have little or no inducement to practise 
an imposition upon us, as they neither asked for, 
nor expected, any reward, for exhibiting their skill 
in destroying these reptiles. 

The zarzaparilla grows here in great abundance. 
Some of the small creeks are so full of it, that the 
natives come to them, for leagues round, to bathe 
and drink the water, which they assert to be suffi- 
ciently impregnated with the virtues of the plant, 
to effect cures in many obstinate chronic complaints. 

The temhkiddr, or electric eel, is caught frequent- 
ly in the Orinoco, and the neighbouring rivers and 
lagoons. It is about four or five feet long, and 
rather thicker, in proportion to its length, than the 
eommon eeL It is of a dark green colour, with a 



CilBfPAIONS AND CBUISEg. 45 

row of yellow spots on each side, from head to tail. 
When recently canght,. it has the power of com- 
manicating a severe shock ; so much so, that it is 
impossible to hold it in the hand, or to tread on it. 
By frequently exerting this power, it gradually 
grows weaker, until the animal appears to lose it 
entirely, and to become quite languid ; it recovers 
this singular property, however, after some hours 
rest. It can give a shock, exactly similar to that 
of an electric battery, through the medium of water; 
stunning fish, and, if they are small, killing those 
put into the vessel in which it is kept. This shock 
is evidently given by a voluntary act of the fish, for 
it 18 not always felt instantaneously on handling it; 
and the moment of the efibrt being made can be 
distinguished, by the corrugation of the skin, and 
the changing of its colour. 

The manati is also found here, and even as high 
up as in the rivers Apuri and Araiico. It is killed 
by the Indians, for the sake of its oil ; and the skin, 
which b fiill half an inch thick, is used for making 
lazos, or nooses for catching wild cattle, and whips. 
It grazes on the weeds growing under water ; and, 
during the rainy season visits the savannas which 
are flooded, and fattens on the high grass, which 
grows most luxuriantly at that time. 

About half way between Angostura and Ca^cara 
is a remarkable pass of the river, called, from the 
danger attending it. La Boca del Infiemo. This 
is never attempted to be entered, unless there is 
any particular hurry, or emergency, which renders 
it necessary for vessels to risk the ascent ; or when 
the shallowness of the water, in the circuitous chan- 



46 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

nel winding round the rapid, will admit of nothing' 
passing except canoes. The entrance to this strait 
is between two high rocks, at equal distances from 
the precipitous banks, and about four hundred 
yards apart. Through these, the stream appears to 
have forced its way at some remote period ; assisted, 
doubtless, by some great convulsion of nature. The 
whole of the channel is rocky, and fiill of eddies, 
which rendered the steerage of the launches we 
were on board of very difficult, and frequently 
whirled our vessel round, notwithstanding a sti£F 
breeze that was blowing, and the exertions of sixteen 
stout rowers. The boatmen, at last, had recourse to 
espiaSf or thick tow ropes, made of twisted bark, 
which they carried out from one rock to another. 
By this means, they contrived to warp the launch 
through the most dangerous part of the rapid. 
When we emerged from this narrow pass, and had 
no longer before us any trees or rocks, to which the 
peons could make fast the espia, they were called 
on to make their greatest exertions. They all 
seized the oars, except one man, who was left on 
shore to let go the rope, by which the boat was made 
fast. This he did, exclaiming, as usual in such emer- 
gencies, " Vat/a con Dios /" ^^ and then swam on 
board. The current was still so rapid, that the 
peons had to exert their utmost strength for some 
minutes, without advancing in the least ; until our 
sail again felt the breeze, when we began slowly to 
ascend. The danger would be great, were the row- 
ers to relax their efforts, and allow the boat to be 
drawn down the rapid ; for the eddies would, in all 
probability, dash it to pieces, on the rocks that appear 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 47 

above water in every part of it. About a mile 
above this pass is the ruined village of Las Piedras, 
'fvhere the boats were ordered to rendezvous ; as 
they had been, of course, separated, by the impossi- 
bility of more than one ascending the rapid at 
a time. As its name implies. Las Piedras is built 
on a rocky point, which juts out into the main 
stream, causing a very rapid current, and series of 
whirlpools, immediately above the landing place. 

A singular sound is occasionally to be heard, at 
this place, when standing on the promontory, ap- 
parently proceeding from the interior of the rock. 
A few of us were lucky enough to hear it very 
distinctly, about 9, A. M., just as the river breeze 
was begpjining to freshen up the stream. All agreed ^ 
in likening it to the notes of a distant deep-toned 
iSiolian harp, accompanied by a peculiar throbbing 
sound, occasionally so rapid as to suggest the idea 
of a spring of water gurgling through a range of ' 
marble cells. Our Indians attributed it, of course, 
to supernatural agency ; and evidently connected 
it, in their ideas, with the neighbouring Boca del 
Infiemo. 

This village, in common with all those that are 
to be seen on the banks of the Orinoco, for some 
hundred miles, is a melancholy monument of the 
war of destruction and extermination, carried on 
by the Spaniards, at the commencement of the strug- 
glesfor,and against, the independence of the country. 
It was here that those blood-hounds in human shape, 
Bovez 12 and Yanez, pursued the execrable plan of 
arming the slaves against their masters, for the 
avowed purpose of having under their command a 



48 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

set of miscreants, whose natural ferocity was in- 
flamed, by the desire of revenge for real or imaginary 
injuries. Those satellites of the sanguinary Morillo 
used to give up the plantations, and defenceless 
villages, along these shores, to all the horrors that 
inevitably attend military chastisements, under any 
circumstances ; but are to be dreaded, in a much 
greater degree, when it is inflicted by such merci- 
less banditti. 

At most turns of the river, but especially where 
the banks are high, and the soil favourable for agri- 
culture, the blackened rafters and tottering walls, of 
what was once a village church, met the view of 
our incensed criole troops. On landing, every 
street and garden was found to be completely 
choked by the wild cucumber, and castor oil shrub, 
which are always to be met with among the de- 
serted habitations of men, and rapidly hide every 
trace of cultivation. Occasionally, a narrow path- 
way guided us to where a few wanderers had re- 
turned to their native dwelling place; but all of them 
appeared sickly, and incapable of the exertion neces- 
sary to clear the ground for tillage. Men were never 
seen among them; for, of those who were not 
with either army, some hid themselves upon the 
approach of troops, through fear of being pressed 
into the service, and others had already joined the 
numerous gangs of robbers that infested the river. 

These fresh water pirates rendered it extremely 
hazardous for single boats to pass up or down the 
river unarmed; particularly merchant bunqttesywhich ' 
used to be watched and dogged by the Indians, who 
were in league with the pirates, and supplied them 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 49 

with intelligence. These boats rarely carrying 
more than four rowers, would inevitably be taken, 
and of course every one on board murdered, of 
which we had a melancholy example at this very 
time. 

Colonel McDonald, finding the boat he was in too 
much crowded, (the carroza^ or covered part, being 
full of merchandize belonging to a brother of Gen, 
Urdaneta,) left it at the village of Caycara, and em- 
barked onboard a merchant boat. In this he hoped to 
enjoy more room, as it carried no troops ; besides 
being able to land, whenever he chose, to shoot 
wild fowl. He took with him, as a companion, a 
young Comet of his regiment, by name Langtree. 
Unfortunately, either in consequence of frequent 
delays, or by reason of that boat not being able to 
keep up with the armed launches, all of which were 
well manned, in the rapid stream of the Cabullari 
which we had now entered, she was seprated from 
the convoy, that had been hitherto her protection, 
and was boarded by a gang of these robbers. Poor 
McDonald, who was an active vigorous man, in the 
prime of life, was overpowered by numbers, after 
killing three or four of them ; and he, together with 
every one on board, was murdered, with the excep- 
tion of one boy. This only survivor escaped, by 
diving to the opposite side of the narrow river, with 
four arrows sticking in his body, which he broke 

off short, and afterwards got extracted. 

It was not until a fortnight subsequent to this 
melancholy event, that we heard of our unfortunate 
eonntrymen's fate, from this lad, who came to San 
Juan de Pallara, where we were quartered; he 

D 



50 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

having laid concealed, some days, among the bushes 
on the banks, until a launch passed, which took him 
in. There was no doubt that Indians must have 
been concerned in this attack, from the circumstance 
of arrows having been used ; but a sabre, which had 
been sent out to Bolivar, in the care of McDonald, 
by Mess. Gill and Co. of London, was afterwards 
found in the possession of some of the river pirates, 
who were taken. They were blown from the muz- 
zles of 18 pounders, on the fort of San Fernando, 
by orders of General Paez. 

On the banks of the Orinoco, and its tributary 
streams, incalculable numbers of a species of pheasaift 
breed. They appeared so unused to be disturbed, 
as to sit with perfect composure on their rude nestt, 
until we came so close as to touch them. They 
used also to collect, in large flocks, at every landing 
place where wc halted to cook, and would fight as ob- 
stinately as vultures, for anything eatable they could 
find. Their flesh is as coarse and rank as that of 
the peacock; though their plumage is delicately 
beautiful. The huytres^ or turkey-buzzards, strong* 
ly resemble moderate sized turkeys in shape and 
plumage, as well as in the red fleshy tubercles of 
the neck and head ; but the pauxi, — the real wild 
turkey, — which we frequently shot for dinner, is jet 
black, with a golden yellow top-knot and comb. 

We next halted, for a day, at Caycara, that oor 
musguitO'Jleet of gun -boats might assemble round 
their commodore, Jose Maria Dias, a villainous 
looking zanibo of Margarita. The scene betweeft 
him and his camaraday Panchito Padilla, then 
commodore of the flecheras, and now full Colonel, 



CAMPATON8 AND CRUISES. 51 

was farcical in the extreme. They were truly 

'^ < Arcades ambo ;* id est, blackguards both i" 

and were both alike savage in look, manners, and 
heart* Since the commencement of the revolntion, 
when diey obtained their freedom, (for they were 
prerionsly shiYes,) they had been the regular ex- 
ecotioners of the army, and had repeatedly quarrel- 
ed, on account of one defrauding the other of his 
fidr proportion of butchery. On one occasion, Dias 
ftrack Padilla, (whose soubriquet is "e/ tuertx>* 
^the one-eyed,") and they were, of course, at 
Bortal fend. Each, however, openly declared, 
that he only wuted to surprise his enemy at a 
diiadyantage, and to rid the world of him. Mean- 
while, they saluted each other formally, and con- 
Tereed on points of duty ; each with his sword drawn, 
and in evident trepidatiom Padilla was a glutton in 
bnlchery, and wished to execute thousands; but 
alwaya killed them at once. His rival Dias, who 
was an epicure in cruelty, was contented with a 
few victims, provided he was permitted to torture 
them at his leisure. 

After a long passage up the Cabulldri, during 
which we were obliged to trust entirely to the oars 
and tow-rope, besides occasionally getting forward 
in the ahallows with poles, as we had no assistance 
whatever from the wind, we entered the river 
Aiafloo, and finally landed at the village of Caiijaral; 
heartily glad to find, that we were now to proceed 
by laady the navigation among the small rivers being 
tediona and unpleasant to a great degree. The 
duuinels are so narrow, that the trees on the banks 

d2 



52 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

nearly meet, as they hang o^er the stream ; and 
totally exclude the hreeze, that we used to enjoy so 
much while sailing up the Orinoco. The zancudos 
were, if possihle, more troublesome than ever ; and 
we greatly missed the dry sand banks, on which 
friends from different launches used to meet, and 
converse at the evening bivouac. When we rested 
for the night, in these rivers, we were obliged to 
clear away the bushes, before we could land ; and 
generally preferred remaining in the boats, to going 
on shore ; the ground being marshy, and full of 
noxious insects of every description, so that there 
was no possibility of taking exercise, or enjoyingrest. 
The alligators are of enormous size in these re- 
tired streams, which, if we may judge by the num- 
bers found here, they seem to prefer to the larger 
rivers. Wo had, therefore, many opportunities of 
observing their form and habits. This animal, 
which is called cayman by the Indians, is by no 
means so active as it has generally been described. 
Even in the water, where, from its conformation, 
it must be more particularly capable of exertion, 
its movements are far from being rapid or sudden.; 
and it appears chiefly to trust, at all times, to sur- 
prize for taking its prey. On land, it is remarkably 
awkward, and heavy in its motions, and is evidently 
incapable of pursuing any animal with a chance of 
success. It is scarcely ever found at any great 
distance from the river, or lagoon, which it haunts; 
and, in general, when the swamps are dried up by 
the excessive tropical heats, it prefers remaining in 
the mud in a torpid state, to wandering farther in 
search of water. The exertion, necessary for the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 53 

caymdn to use, in dragging itself up the bank, when 
it leaves the water, for the purpose of laying ^^, 
or basking in the sun, appears very great. Its 
1^, indeed, appear but ill adapted, both in size 
and position, to the weight they have to support, 
so that it has nothing whatever of the activity, that 
distinguishes all the rest of the lizard genus. Al- 
though it is amphibious, water appears to be the 
element most natural to it; for it passes thc^ greater 
part of its time in it, and retreats thither on any 
alarm. It is frequently to be seen sleeping afloat 
•n the water; at which time, it is enabled to 
continue respiration, in consequence of the con- 
cave curve of its head, by which its nostrib and 
eyes can remain above water, while every other 
part of the body is below. It is a mistake to sup- 
pose, that they are always obliged to go on shore, 
for the purpose of devouring their prey. They can 
manage this, by raising their heads out of the water, 
in the same manner in which the seal is seen to eat 
&h, when too far out at sea to admit of his carry- 
ing it on shore : and few objects appear so truly 
farauchey as a group of large alligators feasting on 
a horse while floating down the stream. The vio- 
lence with which they tear ofi^ whole limbs ; and the 
noise their tusks make, when they close their vast 
jaws in the act of chewing, are indescribable. If 
disturbed, when on the land, they appear to be in 
the most awkward state of alarm, and flounder down 
to the water in the clumsiest manner possible. 
They have, at that time, no leisure for offensive or 
defensive warfare ; and may be attacked, and killed 
a lance, without attempting to offer any re- 

d3 



S4i CAMPAIGNS AND GBUKE8. 

sistance. It i& dangerousy howerer^ to intrade 
between them and the water ; as the mere weig^ 
of the animal would render it impossible to ttop 
its progress, and the violent motion of its tail^ m 
its exertions to retreat, wonld endanger the limbs 
ai an assailant. 

It lays about thirty or forty eggs in the sand, of 
an oral shape, six inches long, and covered witli a 
tough spmbrane, which differs from that endoeiiy 
the turtle's eggs, in having a small quantity of 
brittle shell on the outside These were oonstandy: 
eaten by the river Indians, and occasionally by tm 
when provisions were scarce ; notwithstanding Ae 
disagreeable smell of musk, that distinguishes tile 
caymdny and is so strong as to infect the air, in tile 
places frequented by it. The young alligators, im- 
mediately on breaking their shell, show symptens 
of their innate ferocity, by biting at every tiling 
presented to them. They will, even then, allow 
themselves to be lifted from the ground by a stick, 
which they seize in their mouth, and cling to obsti* 
nately. They are frequently seen, when very young, 
resting on the back of the frill grown cayman, when 
in the water ; but we are not authorised to suppose, 
that they attach themselves to their parents for 
protection, as is sometimes asserted. They merely 
dimb up, unnoticed, in search of a resting place ; as 
they also do on floating logs of wood, and roots 
of trees under the banks. Neither is there any 
foundation whatever for the story, so often ropeat« 
ed, of the eaf/mdn bringing her newly hat<^ied 
yom^ down to the river on her back ; in ^Eust, no 
animal that deposits its eggs in the sand, takes any 



CAVPAICDfS AN9 GSDI8E0. &$. 

fiijctiier notice of» or interest in them* Wh/aii^tkere 
i« n^idk nmse or agitation in the water, — a|i for in- 
staoce, if a drove of horses are swimming across, a 
siyer, or a number of men are bathing or wading 
in the same place, — there is little danger to be i^- 
preh^ided from the alligators, althongh hmidreds 
Oif them mity be near. They lie in wait, howeyer, 
for the colts and weak horses that are left behind ; 
and seldom fail to intercept one or two of theau 

The cayman is ^really to be dreaded, after it has 
<Hpce tasted man*s flesh ; for, like all beasts of prey, 
H will then brave every danger to obtain this ali- 
ment, which it prefers to any other. It is then said 
to be cthadoy for it will lie in wait for bathers, who 
may be carelessly &itting on the banks of the rivers; 
and for washerwomen, who are all day employed 
there ; and will allow itself to float gently towards 
them with the stream, raising its eyes and nostrils, 
at intervab, above the water, to ascertain if it be 
near enough for an attack. Should it succeed in 
approaching them unobserved, which often hay pens, 
it strikes the victim, whom it has selected, a sudden 
and violent blow, with the taiL This seldom fiuls 
of throwing it into the water, where it &lls an easy 
prey to the voracions animaL There are^ however, 
instances of persons freeing themselves from the 
eaymmCs jaws, by having the presence of mind to 
ftab it in the eyes, which invariably compels it to 
loose its hold. It is, perhaps, needless to add, that 
this operation must be performed with some sharp 
iwd hard instrument ; and that it wonld be the 
height of imprudence to trust to the fingers for 
^ouffing the animal ; — even though it be asserted, that 
an Indian girl once saved herself in this manner. 



50 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

When an Indian lias occasion to swim across any 
pass of a riyer, known to be the haunt of a danger- 
ous alligator, he provides himself with a stout stidE, 
of about eighteen inches in length, sharpened at 
both ends. Should he be attacked by one, while 
in the water, he presents the stick to its expanded 
jaws ; and, as the cayman endeayours ravenously 
to seize him, the sharp points of the stick pierce the 
roof of the mouth and under-jaw, in such a manner, 
as to render it incapable of extricating itself. The 
Indian may then with safety kill it, or leave it to 
drown; which, as it is unable to close its jaws, 
quickly ensues. 

The Llan^ros, or inhabitants of the plains, bor- 
dering on the rivers where these animals abound, 
take great delight in catching the cayman^ by means 
of a lazo of tough bull's hide. This noose they 
throw dexterously over its head, while it is floating 
near the bank, and drag it on shore by the united 
strength of ten or twelve men. Its rage and con- 
sternation, on finding itself captive, are excessive ; 
but, after the first violent struggles to e£Fect its 
escape, it remains perfectly motionless, with the 
upper-jaw raised, in readiness for an attack ; giving 
occasional proof of the immense strength of its jaws, 
by the ease with which it splinters, between its 
tusks, the thigh bones and skulls of bullocks, thrown 
to it by its captors for their amusement. However 
dangerous it may be to get within reach of its tail, 
these active crioles will not hesitate to spring on its 
back and stand there. When tired with provoking 
its unavailing resentment, they kill it with lances, 
wounding it in the fleshy parts under the fore-legs, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 57 

where it is most vulnerable ; for the scales, frhich 
cover every part except the belly, are prdbf even 
against a musket ball, if it strikes them at all obliquely. 
During MoriUo's campaign in the Aptiri country, 
three of us were on our route with despatches from 
CoL Rangel's camp at Congrial to Gen. Paez*s head 
quarters at Cana Fistola ; and, not being able to 
procure a canoe, were obliged to swim our horses 
over a small branch of the lagoon of Cunavichi, 
which lay across our road, carrying as usual our 
saddles on our heads. My two companions were 
brothers, byname Gamarra, natives of Varinas. 
One of them, a lieut. of Paez's lancers, loitered so 
long on the bank, as only to have just entered the 
water, at the moment we had reached the opposite 
side. When he was nearly half way across, we 
saw a large cayman, which was known to infest this 
pass, issuing from under the mangrove trees. We 
instantly warned our companion of his danger ; but 
it was too late for him to turn back. When the 
alligator was so close, as to be on the point of seizing 
him, he threw his saddle to iU The ravenous 
animal immediately caught the whole bundle in its 
jaws^ and disappeared for a few moments; but 
soon discovered its mistake, and rose in front of the 
horse, which then seeing it for the first time, reared 
and threw its rider. He was an excellent swimmer, 
and had nearly escaped by diving towards the bank ; 
but, on rising for breath, his pursuer also rose, and 
seized him by the middle. This dreadful scene, 
which passed before our eyes, without the least 
possibility of our rendering any assistance, termi- 
nated by the alligator, having previously drowned 



58 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the unfortunate man, appearing on an opposite 
sand bank with the body, and there devouring it. 



CHAPTER V. 

MARCH FROM CAUJARAL TO SAN JUAN jm' PALLABA.— >' 
GUAGIVE INDIANS. — ORNAMENT OF THE FEMALES. — THE 
IGUANI LIZARD. — SAN FERNANDO DEL APURL — GUN^ 
BOATS TAKEN ON HORSEBACK. — ^THE ARMY CROSSES THS 

APURI FIRST INTERVIEW WITH BOLIVAR. — DESCRIPTION 

OF HIM AND HIS STAFF. — CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVE OFFI- 
CERS. — SKIRMISH AND MASSACRE OF SPANISH HUSSARS.-^ 
BATTLE OF CALABOZO. — ASSAULT. — DESCRIPTION OF THE 

CITY. aUESRA A LA MUERTE, BATTLE OF SOMBRERO.—^ 

ADVANCE OF THE ARMY. — ^BOLIVAR*S ESTATE. — CITY OF 
VITORIA. — GENERAL URDANETA INSTALLED GOVERNOR. 

On our landing, opposite to Caiijaral^ we were 
provided with horses, by which we proceeded to 
the town of San Juan de Palldra, where the troops, 
with whom we came up from Angostura, were or- 
dered to refresh for a time, previous to joining the 
army of Bolivar. He was then about twelve 
leagues off, before the walls of San Fernando, a 
fortified city on the Apuri, in the possession of the 
royalists. Imm ediately on leaving the river A raiico, 
there is a thick belt of trees to be passed, consisting 
chiefly of guadtuif or bambu. The underwood, 
which is at first luxuriantly thick, decreases gra- 
dually as the savanna is approached. Previous to 
entering the extensive plains, still farther inland, 
the forest opens by degrees, and leaves large grassy 
glades, surrounded by clumps of trees, which appear 
to have been purposely planted there to diversify 
the scenery.' 



r' 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISER* 59 

The town of San Juan i$ situated on the borders 
of the phmis ; an4 is built on a low gand-hUl, whioh 
is completely insulated during the continuance of 
the floods. The houses here are of mud, and have 
a ruinous appearance; they are, nevertheless, tUed, 
which is an unusual sign of civilization in the 
Llanos. Hie ridges of the roofs are generally co- 
vered with cowhides ; and many of the street doors 
are closed with the same material, merely hung 
loosely up, to prevent the sand being blown into the 
houses. The hides of the wild bullocks appear to 
be a staple commodity in Varinas. Every part of 
the saddle gear, even to the rings ; trunks and port- 
manteaus ; stools, boxes, cradles, and beds; sledges, 
chums and pails ; sacks for maiz, and bottles for 
aguardiente or gt$ardpo; sieves, and kneading 
troughs, &c. &c. ad infinitum ; are all made of hide. 
On a hunting party in the savanna, too, a kettle is 
readily made by stretching a hide on sticks ; and 
venison is frequently boiled in it. Nay, the wounded 
are conveyed on a hide litter to an hospital, the par- 
titions and roof of which are of hide, and, if they die, 
are buried in a hide coffin. No vegetation is to be 
teen near the town of Pallara ; except the vinittay 
or castor oil shrub, and a few stunted tamarind trees. 
As the inhabitants are too indolent to dig wells, 
they fetch all their water in tapdras, or large oval 
calabashes, from a stagnant lagoon in the neighbour- 
hood, although very good water may be procured 
from a running stream, not half a league off. 

We saw here one of the wandering tribes of In- 
dians, called Cruagivisy which are found in different 
parts of the plain, extending between the Orinoco 



60 CAMPAIGNS AMD CRVI8BS. 

and the Aptiri. Thej are a wretchedly poor^^et of 
heings, having no covering whatever but the ffua^ 
ucoy or small apron, made of plaited grass: and 
their whole possessions consists merely of a mata* 
two, on which they sleep, and a few calabashes t6 ' 
contain their food. They have, also, a few bows 
and arrows, and wooden lances ; not however for 
war, being now a peaceful nation, but for fishing, 
as their principal food consists of fish, lizards, and 
young alligators. 

Their females have a singulis, method of orna- 
menting themselves. They bore a hole through 
the under lip, as low down towards the chin as 
possible, and stick several long thorns in the aper- 
ture, with the points projecting outwards. Observ- 
ing that several of the tribe had decorated their 
lips with common pins, I gave one of the squaws 
a few that I happened to have in my possession 
She immediately called to her a girl of about twelve 
years old, (apparently her daughter,) who had not 
as yet been distinguished by this ornament ; pierced 
her lip, with equal indifPerence and dexterity, with 
a sharp instrument made of an alligator's tooth ; 
and placed the pins in the orifice. The poor giri 
bore this operation with great patience ; and ap- 
peared to be perfectly -consoled, by the possession 
of her newly acquired ornament, for the pain it 
must have given her. She ran directly, 

'' With a smile on her lip, and a tear in her e^e,** 

to display it to her companions ; considering, no 
doubt, that pins were much more fiuhionable than 
Ihoms. 



CAMPAIOK8 AND CRUISES* 61 

The iffuana lisard is a favoarite article cf food 
among these Indians; and is really, notwithstand-* 
ing its repnlsiTe appearance, a great delicacy. The 
flesh is as white as the breast of a tnrkey ; and has 
not the slightest disagreeable flayoor. It is brought 
to table, at some of the West IncRan islands, 
together with turtle, to which some people prefer 
it ; particularly on the Salt-Keys, and the Bah&mas, 
where it is found in abundance. There is nothing 
whatever unpleasant in its appearance, when cooked 
and served vp ; ^cept, perhaps, its long black 
claws, which bear no small resemblance to a mon- 
key's fingers. It is about five or six feet long, 
when fall grown, including the tail; nine inches 
high ; and a foot, or more, in circumference at the 
thickest part. Its colour is a bluish green ; and it 
has on its head, and under its throat, singular fleshy 
excrescences, resembling the comb and wattles of a 
cock. It swims very fast , and climbs trees in pur- 
sait of flies, and other insects, on which it feeds. 

We left San Juan de Pallira, in the first week 
of February, 1818, at sunset, on our march to San 
Fernando ; having been provided with horses and 
mules immediately previous to our departure. Un- 
luckily, our steeds had never before felt an English 
bit; and, as we could not procure any of the bridles 
of ihe country, and had no time to accustom them 
to this novelty before marching, they treated some 
of our p^rty ^itb sundry caracols and botUades, to 
the great disorder of the ranks^ and the undisguised 
merriment of the Llan^ros. The English pack 
saddle, also, although made in London after the 
most approved patjten^ were not at all adapted to 



62 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the comitry, nor to the size of our baggage animals. 
The native soldiers could by no means be tangkl 
how tp secure them ; but abused, in plain criolt 
Spanish, both the makers of such complicated har« 
ness, and those who had brought them out. TIm 
mules, like^se, showed their dislike to innovatioiiy 
by kicking off the baggage repeatedly, until they 
became used to this method of being loaded. 

We arrived, about midnight, at the banks of a 
small stream, where the army bivouacked ; and lay 
down to rest on the grass in our cloaks. In fine 
weather, this mode of passing the night is delight- 
ful. The line of fires gives an appearance of com- 
fort to the rude camp, and is also no contemptible 
protection against wild beasts, as we found in more 
than one instance. Each fire is surrounded by a 
party that has agreed to mess together ; and, aA^ 
the simple culinary process of roasting the beef, 
which has been served out, on spits cut from the 
nearest bush, the ample ration is speedily con- 
sumed, without any complaint of the want of plates, 
or even of bread and salt. A cigar, then, or a 
churumbilay is a luxury ; after which follow sa much 
sounder sleep, than is perhaps often enjoyed in a 
bed, and under shelter. 

On arriving in front of San Fernando, we found 
the Spanish colom*s still flying on the forts there. 
We learned, from the commander of a patriot 
picket stationed at the river, thatx Bolivar, having 
passed the Aptiri, had advanced towards the strong 
city of Calabozo, without attempting to take San 
Fernando. He had merely left a detachment of 
cavalry there, to intercept all supplies of provisions. 



CAMPAIGNS AND 0RUI8E8* 63 

wliieh precantion shortly afterwards compelled the 
enemy to eyacaate the place, without loss on either 
side. As he anticipated this event, he did not con- 
sider it advisable to expose his army to the inevita* 
fale diminution it must have sustained, had he de* 
tennined <m storming the place. 

San Fernando is built on a low point of land, 
nearly sorrounded by a bend of the river Apiiri. 
It was then well protected by breast-works and 
heavy artillery; besides several gun-boats com- 
manding the only approach to it on that side, which 
ia along the banks, totally unsheltered, and exposed 
to the fire of the city. On the side next the land, 
is a thick wood, almost impenetrable to troops, ex- 
cept in one place, which was also enfiladed by guns. 
The troops would, therefore, have suffered severely 
in taking the town ; which was a serious considera- 
tion to Bolivar, at a time when soldiers was scarce 
in the patriot army. 

Greneral Paez, and his body guard, distinguished 
themselves here, in a way that would scarcely be 
credited; were it net well known what fearless 
hiMrsemen, as well as excellent swimmers, the Llan- 
6ros are. When BoliFar determined on crossing 
the Apuri with his army, he was greatly embarrassed 
for want of canoes ; the enemy having destroyed 
all but a few, that were hauled up opposite the 
town. He would have made use of rafts for the 
purpose, but this was rendered impracticable by 
the enemies gun boats ; six of which had anchored 
below the place where the army was to cross, and 
wooid, of course, totally prevent any attempt of 
^hat kind firom being made. Bolivar being irritated 



64 CAMPAIGNS AND CltUlSES. 

at this delay, exclaimed impatiently, '^ Have I no 
guapo near me that can take those launches ?" Paei| 
who stood near him, very cooly answered, that lie 
would try ; and called to a few officers and men of 
his guard, who were with him, ^^Al agua mueha' 
chos V* — " To the water lads !" This was his usual 
phrase, when merely proposing to bathe. About 
fifty in number immediately unsaddled their horses, 
and, stripping to their drawers, their light swords 
being slung round their necks and under one arm, 
(terciadoy) rode into the water, at a winding of the 
river, about a quarter of a mile above the gun- 
boats. When the royalists on board saw the dread* 
ed Llan^ros, who never gave quarter, rapidly ap- 
proaching the boats, they fired at them in a hurried 
manner, once or twice, but without effect; for 
nothing was to be seen of the assailants, but the 
horses' and men's heads above water. On finding 
their guns of no avail, they were seized with a 
panic, and abandoned their boats, some escaping cm 
shore in small canoes that attended the launches, 
and others by swimming. The only prisoner taken 
was a woman, who fired the last gun at the horse- 
men, but could not prevent them from boarding the 
boats in triumph. Their horses, being turned loose, 
swam back and landed lower down ; but the most 
difficult part of the enterprize still remained. This 
was, to take the launches over to the side of the 
river where the patriot army lay ; for, though the 
captors were excellent horsemen, they proved very 
indifferent sailors. They were soon, however, join- 
ed by some of Arismendrs Margaritenos, whdkn 
Gen. Urdao^ta had brought up, and who were better 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISB8« 65 

acqoamted with the art of manag^ing launehes : they 
swam o£P to the gun-boats and brought them over in 
safety. By this manoeuvre, which is probably unpa- 
ralelled in military tactics, Bolivar obtained the com- 
mand of the Aptiri. It enabled reinforcements to be 
sent direct, to the army in the plains ; instead of 
ikeir being delayed by the intricate navigation of 
tlie smaller rivers, as had previously been the case. 

We crossed the Apiiri, without any material op- 
position ; a shot or two being occasionally fired from 
tke forts at our troops, as they marched past on the 
plain opposite the town. This was resented by some 
oi the Llaneros, who contrived, after dusk, to ap- 
proach the huts that were built in the environs, and 
to set fire to them. The conflagration thus unex- 
pectedly raised, as it was to windward of the town, 
bad nearly the effect of dislodging the enemy. 

At length we came up with Bolivar, on the road 
between the river Apuri and the city of Caiabozo. 
He was surrounded by a motley group of staff- 
officers, and colonels of different corps, whose di- 
versity of colour and costume was truly sing^ular. 
We had long wished to see this celebrated man, 
whose extraordinary energy and perseverance, 
under every disadvantage, have since effected the 
liberty of a large portion of South America. It 
is, indeed, more than probable, that these colonies 
would be still in the hands of the Spaniards, were 
it not for the indefatigable spirit of patriotism 
idiich enabled him, though so often defeated, to 
liberate Colombia; and which prompted him to 
lead his veteran troops to the assistance of Peru, 
whence he also drove the common enemy. Bolivar's 



66 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISB8. 

person has been so often described, that to attempt 
a particular delineation of it here would be saper* 
fluous. I shall therefore confine myself to obserr- 
ing that he was then about 35, but looked upwarda 
of 40 ; in stature short, — ^perhaps five feet five or^ 
six, — ^but well proportioned and remarkably active. 
His countenance, even then, was thin, and evidently 
care-worn, with an expression of patient endurance 
under adversity, which he has before and since 
given ample evidence of possessing, however his. 
fiery temper may at times have appeared to contra- 
dict the supposition. His manners not only i^- 
peared elegant, surrounded as he was by men fiur 
his inferiors in birth and education, but must have 
been intrinsically so; for he had the fortune, when 
a young man at Madrid, and at a time when the 
prejudices against the crioles of the turbulent colo- 
nies were powerful in Spain, to captivate the 
affections, and receive the hand, of a daughter of the 
Marquez de Uztaron. The dress which was worn 
by him and his suite, corresponded perfectly witk 
the scanty resources of the patriot army. His 
helmet was such as was then usually worn by a 
private light dragoon. It had been sent him as a 
pattern, by a merchant of Trinidad, who had im"- 
ported on speculation from London some yeomanry 
accoutrements, which had been sold off on the com- 
mencement of the peace. A plain round jacket of 
blue dotk with red cufis, and three rows of gilt 
sugar-loaf buttons ; coarse blue trowsers ; aad 
afynirgateSf or sandals (the soles of which are made 
of the fibres of the aloe plaited,) completed his 
dress. He carried in his hand a light lance, witk 



CAMPAIGNS AKD CRUISES. 67 

ji small black banner, faayiDg embroidered on it a 
white sknU and crossed bones, with the motto 
« MuerU d MtertMr i* 

The native ofl&cers, by whom he was surroonded, 
were chiefly men of colour, of lighter or darlrar 
shades ; exc^ the two generab, Paez and Urda- 
n^tey. who are white. Few of them had any 
jaskets. Their usual dress c<msisted of a shirt, 
made of handkerchief-pieces of ctifFerent colours, 
and gmerally of checked patterns, very ample in 
siae, and with wide sleeves, worn cvtMt large 
^diite drawers, which reached below the knee ; and 
& hat made of oogolloy or split palm leaves, with 
pbimes of variegated feathers. They were almost 
all barefoot; but every one wore laa^e silver or 
hrass spurs, with rowds of at least four inches in 
diameter, and some of even more extravagant di- 
mfflisions. They generally wore, under these hats, 
•olonred silk or cotton handkerchiefs, for the pur- 
pose of shading their faces from the sun ; although, 
to all appearance, their spreading sambr4ro& might 
have afforded sufficient shelter for such dark com- 
plexions. We afterwards found, however, that 
dark as they all were,-'-and several were even 
quite black, — they could not endure the severe heat 
as well as most of the English. One of Paez's 
&vonrite cavalry officers. Col. Juan Gomez, had a 
helmet g^ven him by that general, the casque of 
which was of beaten gold, the work of some rude 
country artist. Another, who commanded his body 
guard. Col. Jose Carbajy, wore a silver helmet ; 
wand many officers and distinguished soldiers had 
silver scabbards to their sabres, besides silver stir- 



68 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

rups, and weighty ornaments of the same metal on 
their bridles. 

On observing our party approaching, these wild 
looking chiefs spurred forward to meet us, with a 
shrill shout of welcome ; and favoured us with a 
profusion of embraces, as is their custom on meet^ 
ing intimate friends after a long absence. They 
were soon, however, obliged to leave us, and post- 
pone the examination of our dress and accoutre- 
ments to the evening bivouac ; as Bolivar himself 
rode on in silence, merely returning our salute with 
his peculiar melancholy smile, as he passed. 

When we halted for the ni^ht, we were sum- 
moned by an aide-de-camp to attend the Grefe 
Supremo. We found him seated in a cotton net 
hammock, under some trees (a tent being of course 
out of the question) ; and were received by him 
with the politeness of a man who had seen the 
world. After slightly apolo .Rising for the poorness 
of accommodations to be found in the patriot 
service, he expressed his joy at seeing, at last, 
Europeans in his army, that would be capable of 
disciplining his troops, and assisting the native 
officers by their instruction and example. He 
then made enquiries, on various points, which 
showed him to be well acquainted with the state of 
affairs in Europe ; and dismissed us, after recom- 
mending us, individually, to the particular care of 
some of the officers of the staff. 

On leaving Bolivar, we were in hopes of being 
allowed- to rest ourselves, after a long march in 
▼ery hot weather. We were far from being so 
fortunate ; for we were immediately made prise of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRtTISES. 69 

by those officers to whom we had been introduced, 
and conducted, in di£Ferent directions, to their 
respective corps, where each of us had to undergo 
a strict examination of every article of his equip- 
ments. They greatly admired our arms ; but ex- 
pressed their surprise at not seeing any lances in 
our possession, as they were here considered in- 
dispensible weapons. Most of us received presents 
of lances, clI uso del pais, the same evening ; and 
each was given a capital horse, tolerably well broke, 
by some one of our new friends. We were closely 
interrogated as to our names, religion, and country ; 
and, more particularly, as to our motives for visit- 
ing South America. It was easy to perceive, that 
they had no idea whatever of any one being indu- 
ced, by mere curiosity, to travel through a country 
so convulsed with war ; neither did they give the 
least credit to our assurances, that our motive for 
joining them was the desire of assisting them in 
their struggles for liberty. A South American 
always suspects some secret reason, beyond the 
avowed and ostensible motive, for every action. 
Some sagaciously enquired, whether there were 
any cattle in England ; and, if a scarcity of provi- 
sions had not caused a portion of the inhabitants to 
emigrate. Others, who were deeper politicians, 
resolved the doubt quite to their own satisfaction, 
by remarking, that Spain and England were 
ancient and natural enemies; and that, although 
there was peace between the respective govern- 
ments for the present, individuals were actuated, 
by the old and bitter feud, to seek out their here- 
ditary opponents, wherever they were to be met 
in arms. 



70 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Onr new comrades con^rnttulated ns heartUy on 
having arrived just in time for " hs toros;" i.e. a 
bnll-fight. They soon explained themselves tb 
mean, that they expected to attack the royidistB 
the next morning ; for Bolivar, they said, had jasft 
led them one of his desperate forced marches, of 
fourteen leagues without a halt, evidently with the 
intention of surprising Morillo ; he had also been 
observed reconnoitring in advance, without a single 
attendant; — an infallible symptom, they assm^ 
us, of his determination to bring on an engagement. 

Before day-break next morning, the whole army 
was in motion ; and, just as the sun rose, the 
forest through which we were marching began to 
open out into the plain of Calabozo. Here wte 
were halted, while a small reconnoitering party 
spurred forward to examine the extensive Uanoy 
and shortly after returned on a gallop, reporting 
that a regiment of Spanish cavalry was slowly 
passing from the city to the neighbouring missions : 
probably in quest of forage. The native chi^ 
crowded round Bolivar, clamorously urging their 
respective claims to be permitted to lead their fol- 
lowers against the enemy. Paez, however, who 
appeared rather to demand it as a right, than to 
request it as a favour, received a nod from Don 
Simon ; and grimly smiling, as he took his lance 
from a lad who carried it, waved his black bannerol 
as a signal to his guard, who were impatientJy 
watching his movements, and dashed forward at 
their head into the open plain. Bolivar then 
ordered Zedeiio and Rangel to skirt the wood with 
their carbineers, and to cut off the Spaniards' re- 



CAMPAI0N6 AND ORUIgfiS. 71 

treat. Observing oor eagerness to see wliat was 
going forward, and recollecting that we had lost 
our commanding officer, and had as yet been 
attached to no corps, he desired ns to follow him, 
as his g^oard of hononr, under the immediate orders 
of CoL James Rooke, one of his aides. We 
f<rflowed him closely, as he rode slowly towards 
the scene of the expected skirmish ; and soon saw 
the Spanish hnssars, who had formed line on ob- 
aenring Paes's advance, broken by a charge of the 
Ltandro lances, and flying in the utmost confiision 
to g^ain a small clump of trees in the centre of the 
plain. Here they were soon surrounded by the 
carbineers ; and quarter being unknown at this 
period of the war, they were cut off to a man, 
nearly 600 in number. When we reached the 
qpot, the half naked criole soldiers were busy cloth- 
ing themselves with the sky blue and white uni- 
forms of the unfortunate Husares de la JRet/na, 

The garrison in the city was by this time alarmed 
at the firing ; and Morillo detached a few regi- 
ments of infantry and cavalry, vnth four light field 
pieces, to induce Bolivar to deploy and shew his 
strength. Don Simon, however, contented him- 
self with permitting the Llan^ros, to skirmish, and 
try the practise of the Spanish artillery men. In 
the afternoon, the royalists retired into the city; 
and Bolivar sent a flag of truce under the walls, to 
summon the garrison, and to offer the royalists 
leave to bury their dead. Morillo appeared at 
the gate, on being called for, but treacherously 
ordered the officer to be fired at. He was too faith- 
fully obeyed ; for the young patriot, a kinsman of 



72 CABfPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Carbajal's, was killed. The trumpeter, wlio, at- 
tended him, escaped with a slight womid. The 
clamour was, of course, great in our camp ; and 
Bolivar could only allay his followers' thirst for re- 
venge, by promising that they should be permitted 
to assault the city, on the following night, after one 
day's hard fighting ; provided Morillo would shew 
any force outside the walls. The Spanish general, 
we soon found, was nothing loth to try his strength ; 
for he beat up our quarters early next morning, 14th 
Feb., surprising and cutting to pieces part of a regi- 
ment of Zedeno's infantry, which had bivouacked 
near the river. Paez, however, again advanced at 
the head of his Guardia de Honor, and kept the 
royalists in check, by several desperate charges on 
different parts of the line, until Bolivar came up to 
his support ; when the action became general. It 
lasted, with various success, until the heat of the 
day ; when the Spanish part of the royalist army 
drew off by degrees, as usual, and was soon followed 
by the crioles, their comrades. The heat was so 
excessive, that Bolivar forbade pursuit, for both 
horses and men, on our side, were panting with 
fatigue and exhaustion. 

A circumstance happened, during the action, 
that gave Bolivar one of the few hearty laughs we 
ever saw him indulge in. A tall stout Scots 
officer, by name P. Grant, who found it very dull 
to keep in close attendance on Boltv^ar, strayed into 
the wood, near the city, to reconnoitre on his own 
account. Here he saw a Spanish soldier, in hasty 
retreat towards the gates, leading a loaded mule ; 
and instantly gave chase to him. The affrighted 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 73 

royalist direw himself on his knees, and begged for 
quarter, pleading that he was a musician ; he also, 
observing that he was not understood, produced a 
clarionet from his pocket, and gave proof of his 
abilities, to his captor's satis&ction. Grant knew 
that such a prize would be most acceptable to Bo- 
liyar ; but he could not think of losing the mule, 
which he had ascertained to be loaded with skins of 
aptardiente, and which had trotted off during the 
parley between its late and present master. He, 
therefore, tied the trembling musician to a tree; 
directing him, with bitter threats, not to cease play- 
ing until he returned, that he might be sure his 
hands were not employed in untying his bonds ; 
and, haying overtaken the mule, brought both his 
prizes in triumph to our side of the field. 

About midnight, Bolivar ordered the army to the 
assault, as he had promised the preceding evening. 
Had this movement been delayed another hour, we 
should have found Calabozo absolutely deserted ; 
for Morillo had determined on evacuating it, and 
had actually marched the greater part of his army 
out. The confusion of the royalist rear-guard, 
when they found we had gained admittance, was 
very great ; and we had here a specimen of that most 
awkward of all fighting ; — by night, in the intricate 
streets of a city, with which we were not acquainted. 
An ude-de-camp was despatched to Paez, who 
remained on the plain in command of the cavalry ; 
and he galloped round to the northern gate, by 
which the royalists were flying, and cut off their 
retreat. Thus hemmed in, they threw down their 
arms, and surrendered at discretion, to the number 

E 



74 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISB8. 

of about 800 ; a great proportion haying been pre- 
viously bayonetted, before Bolivar could interpose 
his authority in their favour. The prisoners were 
crowded into two churches in the Plaza; and 
guards being stationed on them and on the gates, 
a regular saquio, or plunder, commenced, as was 
then usual after an assault. Fortunately there was 
not much aguardiente in the city ; and, as parties 
of officers went round to break all the spirit jars, 
and cut open all the wine skins, that could be 
discovered, the men soon became as orderly as 
could be expected. 

Galabozo is the largest and most populous city 
in lower Venezuela. The mud wall, which sur- 
rounds it, was built as a defence against the incur- 
sions of the Cachiri Indians, before a revolution in 
the colonies was contemplated as a possible occur- 
rence. It is neither lofty nor thick ; but was for- 
merly considered by the native inhabitants to be so 
strong, that they called the city Calahozo^ or, Hie 
dungeon. The plain on which it stands is very 
level, and nearly bare of grass ; although a river 
runs through the suburbs, and fertilizes ground 
enough for a few gardens in the environs. The 
streets were, in general, tolerably well paved, and 
the houses large and roomy ; we had very little 
time, however, to satisfy our curiosity respecting 
the public buildings ; for Bolivar, on dismissing us 
from farther close attendance on him, advised us 
strongly not to lose a moment in refreshing our- 
selves, and filling our havresacks, as we were to 
advance in the afternoon. We soon found quar- 
ters, for the office of the Quarter- Master- Gen., 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 75 

Don Carlos Soublette, was crowded with inhabi- 
tants; all applying for the honour of receiving 
foreign officers into their houses. As they were 
all notorious Godos, we were well aware that their 
only motive for this seeming liberality was, a wish 
to secure some sort of protection against the appre- 
hended insults of the troops. 

After a short, but sound siestOy bugles echoed 
along every street ; and the army assembled in the 
Plaza. A sufficient guard was left in the city, 
under the command of Captain J. Sherwood, as 
Comandante interino ; and we took the road to- 
wards Rastro. 

Bolivar, it must be observed, had long been 
anxious to put an end to the system of cold- 
blooded slaughter, introduced by the Spaniards 
under the name of Gfuerra a la Muerte^ and con- 
tinued for so many years by both parties, under the 
plea of retaliation. It is unnecessary, — ^perhaps 
impossible, — ^to ascertain whether he was actuated 
by humanity, or by a wish to remove from his 
cause a stigma which, he was well aware, degraded 
it in the eyes of the English, from whom he had 
every thing to hope, either as active friends, or 
influential mediators. One thing is certain, that 
he had made incessant endeavours to induce Mo- 
rillo to consent to a cangsy or exchange of prisoners ; 
but the haughty Spaniard invariably rejected his 
overtures, as insults ; and spurned all attempts at 
intercourse, on this and every other subject, as if 
it would have been contamination in a royalist to 
treat with an insurgent. He fired at all flags of 
trace. Priests, nay, even women, were shot, if 

£ 2 



76 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

they were made bearers of the white banner. Stfll 
Boliyar, though justly incensed, did not give up 
the cause of humanity. He sent the Spanish 
general, from this very city of Calabozo, twelve 
royalist officers and twenty of their soldiers, whom 
the patriots had just taken, with a letter requesting 
him, for the last time, to consent to an exchange, 
in the name of the civilized part of the world to 
which he belonged. How this appeal was an- 
swered, will scarcely be credited. 

On the evening of the 15th, when we were 
within a league of Rastro, whither Morillo had 
retreated, the advanced guard suddenly halted. 
On Bolivar's riding to the front, to ascertain the cause 
of their delay, he saw the sad spectacle of twelve 
officers and twenty soldiers, patriot prisoners, lying 
ranged in order across the road we had to pass, all 
cruelly butchered by their merciless captors. Such 
conduct requires no comment. It is surely a full 
extenuation of all Bolivar's alleged severity towards 
his prisoners. His own troops would now have 
torn him in pieces, had he not consented to retaliate 
to the utmost extent of his power. He dictated, in 
the presence of the assembled captains of companies, 
a peremptory order to Sherwood for the immediate 
execution of every prisoner in the city we had just 
left ; and ordered a halt, on the spot where we 
found the bodies, until a report was brought him 
by his aide-de-camp, young Tovar, that he had 
been punctually obeyed. 

Morillo had not waited for Bolivar at Rastro ; 
but had retreated on Sombrero, fnll 12 leagues 
from the former village. We had already marched 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 77 

four leagues ; but the men requested to be led in 
pursuit, until we should come up with the '^ ver^ 
dugos" as they justly called the enemy. Bolivar 
willingly indulged them; and we followed the 
ixtgitive royalists the whole of that night, and the 
next day until the evening, with scarce a halt ; 
except where we came to water. At these pools, 
the men would rest a few minutes, and refresh 
themselves with the contents of their havresacks ; 
rising again of their own accord, and resuming 
their usual swinging pace, or rather trot, with all 
the determination, and thirst of revenge, of true 
Indians. Most of the cavalry horses were tired 
out ; but their riders dismounted and joined the 
line of march, which continued until we came up 
with Morillo's army in the wood near Sombrero. 
Ebdiausted as both sides wore, the deadly hatred 
which they mutually bore each other appeared to 
invigorate them for a while ; but human nature 
could not support any longer exertion, and the 
battle, though sanguinary, was short. Here a few 
of the first foreign volunteers found a nameless 

grave. 

Morillo's retreat through the hilly country was 
rapid, and our pursuit was uninterrupted, for some 
time, by any serious rencontre with the enemy ; 
for it was the Spanish commander-in-chiefs obvious 
policy, to draw the patriots out of the level coun- 
try, where the superiority of their cavalry usually 
decided the day ; and to bring them to an engage- 
ment among the passes of the mountains, where the 
numbers and discipline of the royalist infantry 
would render a victory on their side both certain 



78 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

and decisive. We found the towns of Ortiz, 
Flores, Parraparra, and San Juan de los Morros, 
deserted by their inhabitants ; scarce any of whom 
were to be seen, until we reached Villa de Cura, a 
considerable town, at equal distances from the 
cities of Valencia and Vitoria, situated in a highly 
cultivated country, not far from the small lake and 
village of Maracay. Here many of the houses 
were inhabited, and provisions of every kind were 
very plentiful. We, the foreign volunteers, who 
were all as yet unattached, except occasionally 
forming Bolivar's guard of honour, or escort when 
he reconnoitered in advance of the army, were 
quartered in a palace, (for so it appeared,) in the 
Plaza. The owner had retired, with his family, to 
his country seat near the lagoon ; but the domestic 
slaves had remained, and waited on us with the 
most obsequious assiduity. The furniture was 
almost entirely of that beautiful cabinet-work, in- 
laid with ivory and ebony, for which the artisans 
of this town are justly celebrated. The owner had 
catise to congratulate himself, when he returned, 
that his saloons had been temporarily occupied by 
English ; for, in most other deserted houses, the 
criole officers took a pride in evincing their detes- 
tation of the royalists, by destroying the furniture 
and paintings. 

The views from the road, between this town and 
the city of Vitoria, are beautiful beyond descrip- 
tion. We marched all day through noble planta- 
tions, on each side of the road ; and enjoyed, from 
every hill, extensive prospects over the well-cul- 
tivated valley of i\ragoa. This part of the country 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 79 

is famous for producing the excellent cacao, ex- 
ported from la Guayra, under the name of cocao de 
Cardccuy which bears a high price in the Spanish 
market. 

The troops halted, during the heat of the day in 
the Hacienda de San Miguel^ ^^ a plantation be- 
longing to Bolivar, but confiscated by the Spanish 
Government on his being driven from Cardcas. A 
number of female slaves were still on the estate. 
They appeared quite delighted to see their old 
master ; and surrounded him, embracing his knees, 
and rejoicing at his return (as they hoped ' and 
beUered,) to his own estate. 

The inhabitants of the city of yit6ria, who had 
been well known duHng the whole war for their 
patriotic principles, could not contain their joy at 
the arrival of their old friend and general Bolivar, 
at the head of an army ; which, they fully assured 
themselves, would defeat the Spaniards, and put an 
end to the war. They raised triumphal arches 
across the streets, in the fullness of their exultation ; 
and, imfortunately for themselves, as they soon 
afterwards found cause to regret, vied too publicly 
with each other in their demonstrations of rejoicing. 
Greneral Urdaneta was installed here as Governor 
of the province of Caracas; and grand balls and 
entertainments commenced to be given ; although 
the definitive struggle, that was to decide the fate 
of the campaign, had not yet taken place. There 
were, it is true, good grounds for hopes of success ; 
for Bolivar, by sending round his cavalry under the 
command of Generals Zaraza and Zedeiio, through 
the valley of Maracay, had cut off the communica- 

E 3 



■T 



80 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

tion between the army of MoriUo, and that of his 
second m command. La Torre. 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE CAVALRY SURPRISED BY MORALES. — RETREAT OF BOLIVAB. 
— FLIGHT OF THE INHABITANTS OF VITORIA BT NIGHT.^ 
HALT OF THE ARMY AT LA FUERTA. — CLOTHING AND ACCOU- 
TREMENTS OF THE PATRIOT SOLDIERS. — BOLIVAR TOTALLY 
DEFEATED. — ^THE AUTHOR*S NARROW ESCAPE. — CONCEAL- 
MENT IN THE WOODS MEETING WITH A COMPANION.^ 

JOURNEY THROUGH THE ENEMY*8 COUNTRY IN SEARCH OF 
SOUVAR*S ARMY. — GUERILLA OF ORTIZ. — ARRIVAL AT 
RASTRO. 

On the 15th of March, Bolivar's army was 
halted in Cucuiza, a small village within a short 
day's march of Cardcas, our advanced guard being 
close to Morillo*s out-line pickets. We had actually 
formed line, in order to march to the attack of his 
position, when we received the unpleasant news, 
from some of the fugitives, that our cavalry camp 
had been surprised in the night of the 14th, at 
Cabrera, by Morales and La Torre. The royalists 
had taken nearly all the horses, cut to pieces the 
greatest part of the men, and were in full march to 
gain our rear, and by that means cut off our retreat 
from the hilly country. Nothing, therefore, but a 
rapid countermarch, could save us from being sur- 
rounded ; and this was executed, under a very heavy 
rain, which rendered the mountain roads almost 
impassable, and before a pursuing army. 

We entered Vitoria in the dark, and brought the 
first tidings of the disaster that had befallen us. A 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 81 

grand ball had been given that night by Urdan^ta, 
to the principal inhabitants of the city ; but it was 
suddenly interrupted by this unwelcome news, 
sounding like a sentence of death, to such of the 
inhabitants as had been forward in expressing their 
patriotic sentiments. They were well aware that 
their royalist neighbours would rejoice in the op- 
portunity of securing a share of their property ; 
which would inevitably be confiscated — even if they 
themselves escaped — ^when an accusation should be 
brought against them to Morillo. They also had 
cause to fear that their lives would be forfeited ; 
and, consequently, were obliged, as their only re- 
source, to emigrate, and follow us instantly, as we 
did not halt in the Plaza five minutes. Even then, 
from the firing we heard near, we knew that the 
Spanish army's advance was skirmishing with our 
rear guard. This was a dark stormy night ; and 
the condition of the unfortunate emigrants was 
wretched beyond description. Husbands, who had 
no time to take leave of their wives and families ; 
and delicate females, some with infants at the 
breast, ignorant of the fate of their husbands and 
fiftthers, and without a Mend to assist them, were 
mingled promiscuously with the troops and baggage 
mules, on mountain roads, in many places knee* 
deep in mud. Several had rushed out of the ball 
room, on the first alarm, and had joined the retreat, 
without the possibility of obtaining shoes or cloth- 
ing better suited to such weather, than what they 
wore on the festive occasion. Although most offi- 
cers belonging to the army, who were possessed of 
a horse or mule— especially the British volunteers 



dS CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

— gave it up readily to these unfortunate females^ 
yet numbers were obliged to hurry along on foot, 
without shoes, or sufficient covering. Many drop- 
ped during the night, through fatigue and ex- 
haustion, and either perished from the inclemency 
of the weather, or still worse, fell into the hands 
of the merciless Spaniards, from whom they could 
only expect the most brutal treatment. 

The army continued rapidly retreating during 
the 16th, through the same villages we had passed, 
only a few days before, in all the confidence and 
exultation of an army advancing without opposi- 
tion ; until our rear guard became so exceedingly 
harrassed, by being constantly engaged with the 
pursuers, that Bolivar found it absolutely necessary 
to hazard an action, as his only alternative, to avoid 
the total loss of the powder and baggage, and the 
capture or dispersion of the whole army. He 
therefore formed a line on the morning of the 17th, 
in the valley of Semen, in front of La Pnerta, a 
narrow rocky defile between two abrupt mountains, 
through which was the road to San Juan de Los 
Morros. The narrowness of this pass, and mgged- 
ness of the track leading from it, were most dis- 
couraging circumstances in the event of a defeat ; 
but, unfortunately, Bolivar had no choice of 
positions. 

At sunrise, the two armies were formed, oppo- 
site, and in sight of each other ; divided only by a 
small river, the passes of which were obstinately 
contested, with various success, during the day. 
The contrast between the clothing and appointments 
of the royalist and patriot forces was here very 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 83 

conspicuons. The regiments of the former wore 
their respectiye uniforms, which they had lately 
received from Caracas. This gave them a martial 
appearance, and a decided advantage, in the confi- 
dence with which it inspired them, when they 
saw the ragged appearance of the patriots ; in- 
dependent of their consciousness of superiority, in 
numbers and discipline. The only corps, on our 
side, with any pretensions to uniform, was Bolivar's 
guard. This had received English marines' coats, 
which had been condemned in London and sold to 
Bolivar's agent; with trowsers, or drawers, of various 
colours. The greater part, especially the front 
rank, wore hussar caps, which had once belonged 
to the unfortunate Husares de la Reyna. 

The rest of the army wore, literally, what they 
could get. Some were to be seen, in every corps, 
with Spanish uniforms, either with or without 
broad brimmed straw hats ; but these few were so 
far from improving the appearance of the line, that 
they made it resemble a rabble, and displayed to 
greater disadvantage the miserable clothing of their 
comrades* Many were nearly stark naked ; but the 
greater part wore small ragged blankets, and pieces 
of carpet, which they plundered on the retreat, 
with holes cut in them for the head to pass through. 
Straw hats were in general use ; but some colo- 
nels had partially introduced into their corps a 
kind of nondescript schakoSy made of raw cow's- 
hide of various colours. The fire-arms too, of this 
devoted army, were all old, and generally speaking, 
in a very bad condition. Some muskets were ab- 
solutely without locks, and were apparently carried 



■1 



84 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

for show, until the fall of a few friends or foes 
should give their owners an opportunity of exchang- 
ing them for more effective weapons. The rear- 
rank men were, of course, the worst armed; though, 
as to dress, there was little difference to be per- 
ceived. Many of these had lances, or bayonets on 
poles ; and not a few carried their cartridges in their 
breasts, for want of pouches. 

The remnant of the cavalry, that had escaped on 
the night of the 14th, when they were so unfortu- 
nately surprised, had as ill-assorted accoutrements 
and apparel as the infantry. All had lances of dif- 
ferent lengths ; and some few carbines were to be 
seen among them, which, by the way, were muskets 
that had been cut short in the barrel. They were 
stationed in the rear ; for they were totally unfit, 
from their small number, and the tired state of their 
horses, to take any share in the action. The park 
and baggage guard were Indians, armed with bows 
and arrows. These, however, were a timid, peaceM 
tribe, unused to the sound of musketry, who 
therefore, took every opportunity, when not closely 
watched, of conveying themselves out of the way of 
mischief. On the whole, our army wore a most 
unpromising appearance. We had not even any 
musical instruments to animate the men ; except a 
few old cracked drums, that were any thing but 
spirit-stirring, and Capt. Grant's prize clarionet. 
But, to do the troops justice, they behaved, in 
spite of every disadvantage, as well as men could 
do ; struggling for victory long after the battle was 
evidently lost. If the day could have been gained 
by the number of generals, we had certainly enough 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 85 

on the field for that purpose. There, were, besides 
Bolivar, Urdaii6ta, Soublette, Santander, Valdez, 
Torrez, Mirez, and Anzoategai, of infantry, with 
Zaraza, Monagas, and Zedeno of the cavalry. 
But Paez had made so strong a remonstrance 
against his Llan^ros being led into the mountainous 
country, that it nearly amounted to an absolute re- 
fusal to proceed. Bolivar, therefore, left him be- 
hind at Ortiz ; — most fortunately, as it afterwards 
proved, for he saved the retreating army from 
annihilation as a body. 

While the preliminary skirmishing was going on, 
at the small river, between both armies, Bolivar 
rode along the line, attended by his sta£P, addressing 
a few words of encouragement to each regiment as 
he passed, and leaving two or three of his foreign 
volunteers in each corps, with earnest recommen- 
dations to the attention of their new commanding 
officers. He had thrown off his long esclavina, 
this morning, for the first time since our retreat 
commenced; and had apparently laid aside, with it, 
that despondency which had prompted him to ride 
along in silence, with his face half muffled in its 
folds. He had also exchanged his cumbrous hel- 
met, for a light leopard-skin cap ; and appeared 
highly animated, and eager for the attack. His 
usual weapon in action, the small lance with its 
bannerol of threatening import, was in his hand ; 
and he frequently had occasion to use it, before 
the day declined, for his personal defence. 

When the action became general, Bolivar was 
to be seen in every part of the field, making incre- 
dible exertions to turn the tide of success, which 



86 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

appeared to have set decidedly against us from the 
commencement of the hattle. In one instalhce, he 
struck down with his lance the aibanderado of one 
of his own regiments that was retreating. Then, 
seizing the colours, he rode forward, and cast them 
down the steep bank of the stream among the 
enemy; calling his men, at the same time, to the 
rescue of their standard. They retrieved it, in- ' 
deed, by a desperate charge, headed by a few 
foreigners, who never returned from it ; but they 
were compelled, at last, to give way before supe- 
]*ior numbers and discipline. Lieut.- Col. Rooke, 
who followed him closely through the day, and was 
twice wounded, said afterwards, that he repeatedly 
believed that Bolivar had lost his senses, or that 
he wished to die on the field ; so utterly careless 
did he appear of his life. 

Towards sunset, Morillo ordered his cavalry, 
which was quite fresh, to charge our exhausted 
troops. The patriots wavered for a moment ; but 
were soon thrown into confusion, and cut down on 
all sides. The defeat was so decisive and san- 
guinary, that only a few hundred, who actually 
forced Bolivar with them through the defile of La 
Puerta, assembled round him that night, at the 
village of Flores, near Parraparra. 

Among the numerous slain, few were more ge- 
nerally lamented than the gallant young Marquez 
Tovar, Bo]ivar*s aide-de-camp, whose mother and 
sisters we had seen at the island of St. Thomas. 

One of our officers, Capt. Noble M'MuUin, was 
wounded and taken prisoner in the last charge. As 
he was known to be an Englishman, he was hurried 



CilMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 87 

before Gen. Morillo, instead of being put to death 
instantly, as would otherwise have been the case. 
He found the Spanish general bleeding freely, from 
a severe lance wound he had just received ; and, to 
save his own life, as quarter to prisoners was out of 
the question, declared he was a surgeon, and pro- 
ceeded to prove his assertion, by dressing his 
wounded foe. He was fortunate enough to satisfy 
Morillo, by his dexterity, and was ordered to the 
rear ; but contrived to make his escape that night, 
and joined Bolivar before the battle of Ortiz. 

The corps to which I was attached, Los Barlo- 
ventoSf^^ was composed entirely of free negroes 
from Cumana. Although perfectly fearless, they 
were chiefly raw recruits, and had seen scarcely 
any service. Towards the middle of the action, 
Bolivar, observing that a party of Spanish cazadoresy 
or light infantry, had crossed the stream, and occu- 
pied a wood on the right of our position, ordered up 
the grenadier company, to which I and Brathwaite 
belonged, to dislodge them. Had it been on open 
level ground, we might have had some chance of 
success ; but mere courage, without discipline, is of 
little avail against riflemen in a wood. The blacks 
stood firm, throwing away their vollies, at random, 
on an enemy they could not see ; but which kept 
up a murderous fire on them, from behind every 
tree and rock. They had no idea of sheltering 
themselves in the same manner ; nor could they be 
persuaded to do it ; but kept their ground with the 
characteristic obstinacy of negroes, without either 
advancing or retreating an inch. The consequence 
was, that from upwards of ninety, rank and file, 



88 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISfiS. 

the company was in a short time reduced to about 
fifteen ; and all, probably, would have fallen on the 
spot they were defending, but that the attention hi 
both sides was called to the plain below, by the 
shouts of the Spanish cavalry, advancing to the last 
decisive charge, which broke in on the position 
hitherto maintained by Bolivar, and cut our little 
detachment off, effectually, from our army. On 
seeing this, our opponents, the cazadores, left their 
shelter, and put our small remnant to the rout. 
The blacks, finding themselves compelled to seek 
safety in flight, broke the stocks of their muskets, 
which would only have impeded, without being of 
any farther service to them ; and soon disappeared 
up the mountain, with the hope of being able to 
rejoin their corps on the other side of the defile. 

I followed, of course, as long as I could ; but was 
soon sensible of the impossibility of escaping in a 
hilly country, encumbered as I was with boots and 
a sabre, and fatigued with the day's exertions; to 
say nothing of our having been, for the last two 
days, rapidly retreating by forced marches, without 
any provisions being served out. I therefore threw 
myself, exhausted, into a bush, where I lay expect- 
ing, every moment, to be bayonetted by the pur- 
suers. Finding, however, that several had passed 
without observing me, I began to entertain some 
hopes of being able to rejoin our army ; and crept 
farther into the underwood, to the brink of a rock, 
from whence the whole field could plainly be seen 
beneath me. It was thickly spotted over with 
bodies, especially in the defile leading to Los Mor- 
ros, where men and horses were lying in heaps. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 89 

Our army had totally disappeared, except a few 
stragglers, who were still entangled in the broken 
ground, and whom the enemy had surrounded- 
and was firing at, not choosing to encumber them, 
selves with prisoners. A Spanish general, whom 
I believed to be Morillo, and his sta£P, were halt4*d 
on a small eminence, which the patriot army had 
piieviously occupied. A few prisoners, apparently 
officers, were occasionally brought to him, and, after 
a short pause, while by his gestures he appeared to 
interrogate and threaten them, were taken aside 
and shot. 

Night soon approached ; and it was evident, by 
the number of fires, that the greater part of the 
Spanish army had encamped on the field. Towards 
midnight, I left my place of concealment, and 
reached the small river, which had been the scene 
of the hottest part of the recent conflict. The 
banks were strewed with bodies, many of which 
were lying in the shallow stream ; and the vultures 
and wild dogs had already commenced their ban- 
quet. Fhad but little leisure, however, to look 
about me. Having drank heartily of the brook, I 
proceeded cautiously up the bed of the river, being 
concealed by the bushes on the banks, and secure of 
not being met by any patroles, in that direction. 

By day-break, I had advanced pretty high up the 
valley; and, hearing the crowing of cocks, ven- 
tured, at all hazards, to approach a cottage, which 
I saw not far off, surrounded by sugar-cane patches 
and plantain groves. The inhabitants, a venerable 
old Indian, with his wife and four daughters, came 
out to receive me with great formality ; supposing 



90 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

from my colour and dress that I was a Spaniard. 
They soon found, from my imperfect manner of 
speaking the language, that they were mistaken t 
and readily comprehending that I was one of the 
English, who they had heard were with Bolivar, 
assured me that I was in no danger of being be- 
trayed by them, for they also were patriots, as, 
indeed, most of the Indians in that part of the 
country were. The old man explained to me^ in a 
few words, the danger there was of my being disco- 
vered in the cottage, by stragglers from the Spanish 
camp, who would, in all probability, come up the 
valley in search of plantains and other fruit, and 
to plunder what they could. He, therefore, sent 
one of his daughters to show me a place of con- 
cealment, in a thick copse behind the sugar-cane 
patch. She spread for me here a mat of rushes to 
rest on ; and after bringing water for my feet, set 
before me a wooden tray, with a substantial break- 
fast of broiled fowl, eggs, and roast plantains, 
besides various fruits. In the evening, one of the 
youngest children brought me a supply of provi- 
sions, in a basket ; and told me that several Spa- 
nish soldiers had come up to the cottage, and were 
waiting there, while her mother was making them 
aripas, ^^ 

I remained in this place of concealment for a few 
days, visited but rarely by the old man, who was 
fearful of being watched, and detected in concealing 
an officer of the insurgent army, which would have 
cost him his life ; but I was constantly supplied 
with provisions by the daughters, whose occasional 
absence would not be so much remai'ked. I felt 



CABfPAIONS AND GRriSES. 91 

uneasy, however, at exposing this kind family to 
danger ; besides being in constant expectation of 
discovery, by means of the numerous parties of sol- 
diers, whom I could see from my retreat, during the 
day, traversing the plantations in search of fugitives 
from the late action ; several of whom they had 
already found in the neighbourhood, and shot. I 
therefore determined on removing into the forest 
above the valley, and endeavouring to find some 
companion in distress, with whom I might seek my 
way to Bolivar's camp. My worthy host en- 
deavoured to dissuade me from this resolution; 
asanring me, that he did not apprehend any danger 
of discovery. Finding me, however, decided on 
not endangering them any longer, he and his family 
bid me fisurewell, with many embraces and kind 
wishes. They frimished me with a basket, containing 
roast plantains, and dried meat. The old man 
gave me at parting a flint and steel, with a cane 
containing yescoy (a kind of tinder made of dried 
fungus) and an Indian chururnMUiy with tobacco, 
which, I 'found of real value in the damp woods, 
where I lay concealed for some time afterwards. 

The trees in these mountain forests are chiefly the 
caoba, or mahogany, which grows to a majestic 
size, and affords a delightful shade. There are, 
besides, many different kinds of wild fruit trees, 
which are resorted to by the araguato monkey. 
Panthers inhabit these wilds ; but, although I often 
heard their yells, they never approached near 
enough to give me any serious apprehensions. 
When my provisions were expended, [ was in the 
habit of going down, cautiously, to the outskirts of 



92 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the plantations, after dusk, and cutting sugar-cane: 
this is well known to be nutritious enough to sup- 
port life for a long time, without any other food. 
I ventured, occasionally, near enough to cottagety 
where I could hear no watch-dogs, to forage ripe 
plantains : and was, in one instance, fortunate 
enough to find some tazajo^ hanging on bambu poles* 
This lucky windfall I transferred to my basket 
havresack, without much scruple. I found it dif- 
ficult to guard against the depredations of the 
monkies, which frequently robbed me of my pro- 
visions, if I lost sight of them for a moment. The 
mountains here abound with snakes and centipedes, 
which I used often to discover under the dry leaves, 
tliat composed my bed. The former were, how- 
ever, perfectly harmless, when not molested ; al- 
though it was necessary to use caution on rising, to 
avoid touching them ; as that would, of course, have 
provoked them to bite. 

The woods at night were brilliantly illuminated 
by the eucuis, or lantern flies, which, flitting in 
myriads from tree to tree, resemble sparla of fire. 
This insect is a small dark coloured beetle, similar 
to that which is found under rotten wood, in Eng- 
land. It carries its greenish phosphoric light in the 
tail ; and its lantern remains invisible, except when 
it is flying, as it is covered by the wing-cases when 
in a state of rest. 

I soon began to find this solitary way of life too 
irksome to endure with any degree of patience. 
I even entertained serious thoughts of surrendering 
myself to the Spaniards, at all hazards, rather than 
lead the life of an outlaw, any longer, among these 



CAMPAieNS AND GR17ISB& 93 

wQd moimtems ; when I uoexpecledly met with » 
coBundey who soon dissuaded me from this intention, 
and was eyentnally the means of enabling me to 
^manpey in safety, to Bolivar's army. One night, as 
I was catting a supply of sugar-cane, as usual, I 
saw, by the moonlight, a natire close to me, busily 
engaged in the same occupation. We were, at 
first, rather cautious of approaching each othei ; 
bat, as he soon discovered me to be an Elnglish- 
man, he informed me that he was an alferei, be- 
longing to Zaraia's cavalry, and had taken refuge 
in the woods, after the d^eat of La Puerta ; adding, 
that he a^so was foraging for his support. We 
were both rejoiced at this accidental meeting ; and 
agreed to continue together, for mutual assistance. 
This event was particularly fortunate for me, as my 
new companion, whose name was Bicente Artaona, 
knew the country well, and was a stout active 
young criole, whose assistance in procuring provisi- 
ons, and afterwards in crossing rivers, I found ex- 
tremely serviceable. The days now passed much 
more agreeably than in my former solitude ; for 
Bicente knew several pla<^s of security in the 
mountains, to which he used to guide me. Here 
many patriot fami ies from the neighbouring towns, 
as well as some of the fugitives, who had followed 
us in the retreat from Vit6ria, had taken refuge 
from the Spanish army. The wretched abodes, in 
which these wanderers found shelter, were gener- 
ally in the dry beds of torrents, and were concealed 
by the overhanging banks. Their most active 
young men sometimes ventured out in search of 
provisions ; but were often taken, and shot by the 
Godos. 



94 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The rains not falling now so frequently, we de-* 
termined to commence our march in quest of our 
friends; although perfectly ignorant of the pre- 
sent situation of the army. Having laid in a pretty 
good stock of provisions, by means of the skilful 
foraging of Arta6na, we left the mountains, guiding 
our march by the two gigantic rocks, called the 
Morros of San Juan, ^ which loomed, at the other 
side of the valley, in stem and solitary grandeur. 
While descending the mountains, we followed the 
course of torrents, as being the most unfrequented 
route we could take. This was attended by severe 
exertion, as we were obliged to leap from rock to 
rock, for hours together, and, occasionally, to swim 
across any deep pool, to which \ie came. I was, 
of course, under the necessity of throwing away my 
boots, with which it would have been impossible to 
proceed ; but still my companion, the soles of whose 
feet were invulnerable, was obliged often to halt 
for me, as I was utterly incapable of keeping up 
with him, in walking barefoot over gravel and 
flinty roads. On reaching the more open country, 
we always concealed oarselves during the day, in 
some wood, and proceeded forward by night ; care- 
fully avoiding every beaten track, as well as all 
houses and plantations. 

Our provisions, however, were at length ex- 
hausted ; and, as we found the necessity of replen- 
ishing our havresacks, we were obliged to venture 
to a cottage, standing alone near a large corr&l, to 
obtain something to cat. This proved to be a 
dairy farm ; and, fortunately, there was only one 
man in it, who, nevertheless, appeared very unwil- 



CAlfPAIONS AMD CRUISES. 95 

ling to let us have anything. Finding, however^ 
that we were determined on being supplied, either 
by fair means or otherwise, he brought us some 
ar^His and milk. He told us, at the same time, 
that our army was only a few leagues farther on, 
at Fiores, where, he had been that morning, and 
advised us to hasten to join it; as, he assured us, 
he had heard from some of the officers, that they 

expected to march early the next day. We never 
dreamed of suspecting the truth of this informa- 
tion ; and therefore determined to push on, although 
it was late, and we were greatly fatigued. 

Just before day-light, we found ourselves in the 
midst of a cavalry camp, as we conjectured, by 
seeing a considerable number of horses picketted 
in rows. The soldiers were sleeping round the 
fires ; and their lances were stuck upright in the 
ground near them. My companion was, fortunately, 
more cautious than I ; and urged the necessity of 
ascertfuning to what party they belonged, before 
we should venture to approach them. Luckily 
for us, the rain, that was at' that moment falling 
heavily, kept them quiet near the fires, so that we 
crept undiscovered through the bushes and long 
grass, close enough to distinguish the small banners 
on the lances, which, to our great disappointment, 
we discerned to be red and blue, the royalist 
colours. There was just barely time enough for 
us to retreat, unobserved, before day-break, and to 
hide ourselves in a neighbouring bambu copse. 
There we lay flat on the ground, the whole of the 
following sultry day, much distressed by excessive 
thirst ; for the clouds cleared away as the sun rose. 



96 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

We could not venture to approach the rirery 
although not far off; for the detachment of cavalry, 
that we had seen, commanded, as we afterwards 
found, hy Col. Lopez, ^^ whose cruelty to his pri- 
soners was notorious, was bathing and watering 
horses close to us, at different times during the day. 
The Godos passed repeatedly so near our place of 
concealment, that we could distinctly hear the words 
of the royalist songs they were singing, as they 
rode to and from the water. 

At night, we hastened to the river, and agreed 
to follow its course, walking along its bed, which 
was shallow ; for we knew it would lead us clear 
of Flores and Parraparra. In one of those towns 
we were now convinced that the Spaniards must 
be quartered; notwithstanding the assertions of 
the inhospitable herdsman, who had so treacher- 
ously misinformed us the day before, and on whom 
Artaona vowed, by all the saints in the calendar, 
to be fully revenged, at some more convenient op- 
portunity. I am inclined to give the young criole 
credit for having kept his vows, in this matter, most 
religiously. A thunder-storm came on, towards 
night. This we considered a fortunate circumstance; 
because, when the sudden windings of the river 
brought us nearer the enemy's watch-fires than 
was agreeable, or safe, the heavy rain prevented 
us from being noticed by the sentries, who were, 
no doubt, closely muffled up in their capotes. 
When day-light appeared, we concealed ourselves 
as usual ; and, on this occasion, were so fortunate as 
to find a patch of sugar cane, which afforded us 
both shelter and refreshment. We were then so 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRriSES. 97 

near Parraparri, that we could plainly hear the 
Spanish ** DiandT or revelliez, and distinguish the 
well-known tunes of their band, when they relieved 
guard. Nevertheless, in the dusk of the evening, 
we proceeded on our march, trusting still to our 
friendly river ; but, as it turned down a valley in a 
different direction from Ortiz, by which our road 
lay, we were obliged to leave it towards midnight. 

We reached the environs of Ortiz, early in the 
morning. As we had now been two days without 
any food but sugar-cane, Arta6na, after carefully 
concealing me, set out to reconnoitre ; determined, 
if he should find that the enemy had not yet en- 
tered the town, to venture there in search of pro- 
visions. He ran no risk of detention by any of 
the inhabitants, who might happen to be royalists ; 
there being nothing in his appearance that could 
lead to suspicion. He had stripped off whatever 
uniform be wore, on flying from the field of battle ; 
and bis dress consisted merely of a palm-leaf hat, 
cotton shirt and drawers, and a small rudna cast 
over his shoulders. I passed a most anxious day, 
during his absence, constantly dreading discovery ; 
for I could hear people passing along a path, which 
led close by my place of concealment ; and, what 
was far worse, some children came from a neighbour- 
ing cottage, to play, during the heat of the day, in 
the same copse that had g^ven me shelter. 

I was beginning to fear, in consequence of Ar- 
taona's long delay, that he had fallen into the 
enemy's hands ; (for I could not suspect him of 
deserting me, after his having accompanied me, so 
far, voluntarily ;) when he appeared with a basket 



98 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

of provisions, which were most acceptable, and 
brought the welcome news, that we could pass in 
safety through Ortiz, as it had not yet been en- 
tered by the Spanish army. The Godos, however, 
were expected to march in early the next day. 
Biccente had been at the house of the Padre Cnra, 
a worthy man, who, as well as most of his parish- 
ioners, was a patriot ; and, on account of his poli- 
tical opinions, had been repeatedly plundered, under 
pretence of levying contributions for the service of 
the state. He had expressed a desire to see me in 
the evening. Accordingly, soon afiter sunset, we 
went to his house, through bye-ways, with which 
my companion was well acquainted, having been 
born in the neighbourhood of Ortiz. 

The priest, Don Cayetano Guaxardo, a venerable 
looking elderly man, received us with the greatest 
kindness. He lamented, in particular, the hard- 
ships that I had lately suffered ; and expressing his 
surprise, that an European could undergo as much 
fatigue as a criole. On noticing the ill state of 
our clothing, which, it must be owned, was tolerably 
ragged, after the rough usage it had met with in 
the woods and ravines, he insisted on our accept- 
ing linen and pantaloons of his own. This was a 
positive luxury to us, after wandering near two 
months without a change of raiment. At the same 
time, as he was a remarkably stuot Clerico, and we 
were both rather slender, the ludicrous figure we 
cut, in his ample mosquito trowsers, gave us, and 
him, a hearty laugh, in spite of our fatigue and dis- 
tress. Don Cayetano also furnished me with a 
large pair of boots, which had evidently apper- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 99 

tainedy not long before, to some Spanish dragoon ; 
assuring me that Arta6na would guide me that 
night to a place, where we should be able to pro- 
cure horses. He expressed his regret at being 
a&aid to shelter us in his house ; as he was in 
hourly expectation of the arrivaL of the Spanish 
advanced guard. He therefore advised us, for our 
sakes as well as his own, to leave Ortiz without 
&rther delay. Then, dismissing us with his bles- 
sing, and hearty wishes for our safe arrival among 
our own people, he filled our havresacks with pro- 
visions, and gave me, at parting, a bundle of cigars, 
which were very scarce in this part of the country. 
I must not omit to mention, that on examining 
our stores, at the first halt we made, we found a 
few dollars wrapped in paper, which the worthy 
old priest had put privately into each of our havre- 
sacks, to ensure us a supply until we should join 
the army. 

We continued our journey through a thick palm 
forest ; my companion appearing to be perfectly 
familiar with the intricate paths which traversed it. 
He now considered it no longer necessary to travel 
with the same haste and caution as hitherto ; and 
appeared to direct our course, by making enquiries 
at several huts that we passed. We arrived, just 
before day -break, at a large cottage, where he was 
evidently well known, by the congratulations of the 
inhabitants on his unexpected safe return. We 
both lay down on some skins, and slept soundly, 
until we were wakened by the arrival of a party of 
horse. This I at first supposed to be the enemy ; 
and concluded that our Mranderings were, at length, 

f2 



BB^ A ^ 



100 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

brought to a close. I was soon agreeably nndeGei" 
ved, by observing the joy with which they accosted 
Artaona, who led me out, and presented me to 
them ; assuming, evidently, great credit to himself, 
(and, indeed, with justice,) for the care he had 
taken of me ; for, without his guidance and assist- 
ance, I could never have escaped from the enemy's 
country. The whole party, who were about 
eighty in number, welcomed me with a provision 
of embraces, after the criole fashion. They had 
brought with them a young bullock, which was 
immediately slaughtered ; and, when they had un- 
bridled their horses, and given each his bundle of 
maize leaves, with which they also came provided, 
tliey proceeded to cook their beef at large wood 
fires. 

There was something peculiar about these men, 
which made me suspect they could not be regular 
soldiers; for they appeared to be on a perfect 
equality with each other, except that they all paid 
some shew of deference to a tall powerful negro, 
whose face was disfigured with scars, besides hav- 
ing lost two fingers on his right hand. Their 
clothing, although not uniform, was very good of 
its kind, and had evidently been obtained by plun- 
der ; to which they were also, in all probability, 
indebted for their silver-mounted bridles. They 
were all well armed with carbines, lances, and 
sabres ; and had dragoons* valises behind their sad- 
dles. My friend, Artaona, to whom I applied for 
information on the subject, acquainted me that this 
was a party of the Guerilla del Palmar, under the 
famous Bicentico Hurtado, of whose exploits I had 



CABIPAIONS AND CRUISES. 101 

often heard, while passing through this country, on 
the advance of the army, and who was the black I 
had just noticed. I was now well aware, that these 
were, in reality, banditti ; but that they had assu- 
med the more creditable name of a guerilla, and 
that they were, at that time, on good terms with 
Bolivar, although they evaded his order for them 
to join the army. They now, it seems, only plun- 
dered the royalists ; — probably, because the patriots 
had nothing worth taking in that part of the 
oonntry. 

Although my situation was rather awkward, these 
Mi'disant guerill6ros certainly shewed me, in their 
rough way, every kindness in their power. When 
the roast meat was ready, every one was anxious 
to help me, even to profusion ; and when their 
siesta, which followed this meal, was over, they 
produced a spare horse for my accommodation, and 
a saddle and bridle, that had been concealed in the 
roof of the house, which, it seems, was occasion- 
ally one of their places of meeting. Both these 
articles, to my surprise, were of English manufac- 
ture. Their chief told me, that they were on their 
way to a rendezvous, where he had appointed to 
meet a part of his troop, detached by him on an 
expedition, under the command of a lieutenant ; 
and that it was necessary for my safety to remain 
with them, for the present, until they should obtain 
some intelligence of the enemy's motions. My 
former companion, also, assured me, that the coun- 
try through which we must pass, before reaching 
the city of Calabozo, where Gen. Zedeuo was, 
could not be traversed without danger, as the 



102 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

royalist army had parties of cavalry out in tliat 
direction. I found myself, therefore, under the 
necessity of making up my mind to remain with 
Hurtado and his party, until some favourable op- 
portunity should occur of taking leave of them. 

The rendezvous, at which we arrived late in the 
evening, was situated in the thickest part of the 
palm forest of Ortiz ; and, to avoid all danger of 
discovery, a place was chosen for it at the distance 
of three leagues from any water. My new friends 
used to ride their horses to a spring, that was at 
this distance, morning and evening ; and brought 
back sufficient water for their use, in barrels, on 
mules. The party mentioned by Hurtddo met ns 
here, to the number of about sixty or seventy, with 
similar arms and clothing ; and was again detached, 
the next day, on some other expedition. "We re- 
mained here a few days, which were passed by 
Hurtado's men in constant gambling, and drinking 
aguardiente ; of which the party that joined them 
here had brought two goat-skins full. When in- 
toxicated, which was the case with some of them 
several times a day, they used to quarrel despe- 
rately; and frequently drew knives, and inflicted 
severe wounds on each other. 

There were two or three huts, at this rendez- 
vous, built of bambu and thatched with palm leaves, 
which I was never invited to enter ; but I observed 
several females in them, some of whom were 
evidently superior in manner and appearance, (not 
to mention colour,) to the ruffian-looking gang that 
frequented the place. I was very desirous of know- 
ing who they were, but was advised by Artdona, to 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 103 

make no enquiries whatever about them ; for, he 
assured me, the jealousy of these banditti was not 
to be disregarded, and was easily excited. I 
strictly followed his advice; but had every reason 
to believe, that these unfortunate women had 
been taken on some plundering expedition, and 
brought to this place, from whence they could not 
escape ; for there was always a guard left with 
them, when the guerilla was away. 

I was at first anxious to avoid accompanying 
these men, on any expedition they might under- 
take, while I was with them ; but, on the first 
hint I gave of fatigue, in consequence of our late 
hardships, and of a wish to be left behind with 
the guard at the huts, I received a warning, too 
serious to be disregarded, from Hurtado himself, 
to say no more about that, if I had any regard for 
my safety. 

They used to leave the forest at night-fall, ride 
round Ortiz, where the Spanish advanced guard, 
mider Moralez, now was, and lie in ambush in a 
thick wood, that skirted the road leading to Parra- 
parra. If any baggage, weakly guarded, passed 
their station, they sallied out, and plundered it of 
such articles as suited them ; doing, however, no 
injury to the soldiers who conducted it, unless 
resistance was offered. Although I was obliged to 
accompany them, wherever they went, and to be an 
unwilling spectator of their lawless proceedings, they 
never urged me to assist them in any way. Luckily 
for me, they were soon guilty of a piece of fool- 
hardiness, that occasioned their being compelled to 
leave this part of the country, and released me 
from their society. 



104 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

• They had taken, among some other plnnder> a 
few skins of wine, which had been sent from Parm- 
parra, for the use of Gen. Moralez, who commanded 
the division of royalists stationed at Ortiz ; and, 
as this liquor was rather a rarity to them, they all 
had drank to excess ; including even Bicentico 
Hurtddo, who, contrary to his usual custom, became 
intoxicated. In the height of his glee, he ordered 
all his men to mount their horses, about midnight ; 
and proposed, by way of bravado, to ride into 
Ortiz, and alarm the Spanish garrison. This ex- 
travagant proposal was agreed to, with shouts of 
applause ; and away we all galloped to Ortiz, 
which was six or eight miles off. On arriving at 
the outskirts of the town, Hurtddo led the way 
softly, until a sentry's challenge showed that we 
were discovered. He, then, spurred forward at 
full speed, followed by his whole troop, which 
passed, shouting and yelling, through the middle of 
the Plaza, and out by the other side of the town, 
without a man being hurt ; for we rushed across 
so suddenly, that very few shots were fired at us, 
and those merely at random. 

This gratuitous insult, however, effectually rous- 
ed the Spaniards, who had, hitherto, taken very 
little notice of the many daring robberies, that had 
been committed so near their army. They, now, 
sent so strong a party of cavalry to scour the palm 
forest, that Bicentico was obliged to retire into the 
plains, in the neighbourhood of Rincon de los Toros. 
From hence, I once more caught a distant sight of 
the Llanos of Varinas. Their immensity and perfect 
level, suggest the idea, when descending towards 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 105 

them, of approaching the sea*shore ; and their ap- 
pearance has much of the calm sublimity and repose 
of the distant ocean. 

As Hurtddo could now no longer plunder in 
safety, he determined to make a virtue of necessity, 
and join Bolivar, with all his men. Therefore, for 
the purpose of conciliating his favour, and obtaining 
an amnesty for all past offences, he began to drive 
togedier all the bullocks and horses that he could 
collect in the savannas of San Jose Tiznado ; de- 
sigfning to take them with him, as a peace offering. 
By this means, he at once distressed the enemy, 
and assisted Bolivar ; who, as he was well aware, 
must be deeply offended, at his disregard of the re- 
peated orders that had been sent him to join the 
army. 

I at length obtained permission to take leave of 
the guerilla ; and was presented by Bicentico, on 
my departure, with an excellent charger. ,He also 
ordered my former companion, Artaona, who had 
joined him as one of his lieutenants, to escort me 
across the country with a small party, until within 
sight of Rastro. 

This village was in a state of great alarm and 
distress ; for parties of royalist cavalry had been 
plundering several places in the neighbourhood ; 
and it was expected that they would soon make a 
descent on it. The priest, who had been my host, 
when we passed through on a former occasion, was 
surprised to see me alive ; for he had been informed, 
on enquiry, by the English survivors of the battle 
of La. Puerta, that I had fallen there. He assured 
me that it was unsafe to sleep in the village, on 

f3 



106 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

account of the danger of being surprised ; and gave 
me a guide to the camp, where all the male inhab- 
itants, except himself, retired at night, to avoid 
any sudden attack of the enemy. 



CHAPTER VII. 

ARRIVAL AT CALABOZO.— BICENTICO's GUERILLA JOINS THE 
ARMY. — ZEDENO DEFEATED AT LOS CERRITOS.^LARGE 
CAMONDI, OR WATER^SNAKE. — BOLIVAR AT SAN FERNANDO. 
— ARRIVAL OF ENGLISH AUXILIARIES. — AFFRAY AMONG THE 
NATIVE CHIEFS. — BOLIVAR RETURNS TO ANGOSTURA. — COL. 
HIPPESLEY FOLLOWS HIM. — COL. WILSON OBTAINS THE COM- 
MAND OF THF FOREIGN TROOPS. — ^WINTER QUARTERS IN 
ACHAGUAS. — FAEZ'S MINT. — COINAGE OF THE LLANOS. — 
DIVERSIONS IN LA ISLA. — ^FEAST OF SAN JUAN BAUTISTA. 

Having left the camp at Rastro, before day- 
break, I arrived early in the morning at Calabozo, 
in charge of a patrole of lancers, who met me at 
the entrance of the city, and conducted me thither 
as a prisoner ; for they either could not understand, 
or would not believe, the account I gave of myself, 
but insisted on taking me to their general, as a 
Spanish spy. 

Gen. Zederio was in Calabozo, with an army 
consisting chiefly of cavalry, besides two regiments 
of infantry, and six field-pieces. A few hours 
after my arrival, a false alarm was received, of the 
royali«t army being near the city. Zedeno, with- 
out waiting to ascertain the truth or falsehood of 
the report, immediately evacuated the place ; leav- 
ing behind him his guns, and a considerable quan- 
tity of military stores of various descriptions. He 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 107 

retreated with precipitate haste, until the evening, 
when he halted at Las Lagunillas. So void of 
foundation was this report, that, a full week after- 
wards, I rode (with a brother officer) into the city,^^ 
where we found every thing just as it had been 
left, and even provided ourselves, each with a good 
carbine and pouch, out of the stores that had been 
abandoned. 

Shortly afker, Bicentico Hurtddo arrived, with 
near two hundred of his guerilla, and large droves 
of cattle and horses. This reinforcement, small as 
it was, encouraged Zedeiio to advance once more 
to Calabozo. The enemy, however, had unexpect- 
edly arrived ; and had taken possession of a narrow 
pass, called Los Cerritos, through which we had to 
march. Our general, having taken no precautions 
to reconnoitre in advance, was suddenly attacked 
here, before he had time to form line, and suffered 
a complete defeat. 

As it was necessary, in consequence of this un- 
toward event, to secure the cattle and horses, 
Zedeno ordered them to be driven down to the 
river Aptiri, and to be passed over to San Femanr 
do, where Bolivar and Paez both were quartered. 
I was rejoiced to find myself detached on this duty ; 
for I was anxious to be again among my own 
countrymen. 

At a place called MGuayaval, (ortheguava wood,) 
where I had halted the party, to refresh the cattle 
all night near a lagoon, the men discovered, in the 
morning, a very large water-snake, of the species 
called by the Indians, camondiy which they resolved 
to kill. It was dangerous to approach it ; for, on 



108 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

being disturbed, it had raised its head oat of the 
marsh, to ^Ithe height of a man,and appeared ready 
to dart on the first person that should venture 
within its reach. The soldiers, however, advancing 
cautiously, threw a lazo round its throat, with 
which, the end of the line being fastened to a horse's 
tail, they dragged it by slow degrees (rom its lurk- 
ing place. Its struggles were, at first, violent ; bat, 
as the horse kept a constant tight strain upon the 
lazo, the snake was unable to extricate itself, or 
approach the horse. On getting, weaker by stran- 
gulation, it was dragged along the plain about half 
a league, until it was so far rendered incapable of 
resistance, that one of the men dismounted, and 
cut its head off at several blows with a nmchete. 
We found it to be full twenty-five feet in length, 
and thick in proportion. The belly appearing pre- 
ternaturally distended, we opened it out of curiosity, 
and found it to contain a young calf, which did not 
appear to have been long swallowed. This suffici- 
ently accounted for the ease with which the reptile 
was killed ; as snakes totally lose their activity for 
some time, after having obtained a hearty meal. My i 
Llan^ros assured me, ihsXcaniondis have been killed,/ 
on the marshy banks of the river Cunavichi, measurJ 
ing eighteen lengths of the nuzchete, or long wood^ 
knife, about a Spanish vara long, which most criolei 
carry. 

Shortly afterwards, we crossed the river to San 
Fernando, where I found Bolivar, who had just ar- 
rived from Angostura. He had been engaged there 
in rerorganizing his army, after the repeated de- 
feats he had sustained during th^ late campaign ; for, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISE8. 109 

on the 17th of April, exactly a month subsequent 
to the unfortunate battle of La Puerta, he had been 
surprised in his camp, at Rincon de los Toros ; and 
had been unsuccessful in his attack on Ortiz, where 
he lost many killed and wounded. He was astonish- 
ed to see me, as I had been reported among the 
killed, by the few survivors of the Barlovento 
regiment. Bolivar's enquiries were very minute, 
respecting the country through which I had passed, 
and the assistance I had received in different places. 
His chief secretary, Don N. Perez, was directed to 
take down my answers to the questions he put to 
me ; and I was invited to dine at his own table as 
long as he remained in San Fernando. This was 
no small favour, for bread and vegetables, and, 
above all, wine, were no where else to be met with. 
The only other Englishman, then with Bolivar, 
was Col. Needham, of Strenowitz's hussars. 

Paez, who was also here, had collected a large 
body of cavalry in the plains of Varinas, where he 
was greatly beloved ; and there was every prospect 
of the different patriot generals being able to con • 
tribute troops, from their respective provinces, 
sufficient in number to form an army, not at all in- 
ferior to that, which had been so roughly handled 
in the preceding reverses of fortune. 

Great success was also anticipated from the co- 
operation of the English officers and men, who had 
lately arrived in the Orinoco, and were now on 
their way to the Apuri. In a few days. Col. 
Wilson arrived with his corps, called the Red 
Hussars, from the splendid scarlet uniform they 
wore ; and, shortly after, Col. Hippesley, with the 



110 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

first regiment of the Huzares de Venezuela) and 
Col. Ferrier, with some artillery officers, and pri- 
vates, arrived, just at a time when the city of San 
Fernando was in the greatest state of uproar and 
confusion imaginable. 

Zedeao had returned across the Aptiri with his 
guard. As he was far from being popular in the army, 
(on account of his treachery to his compadre Piar, 
and several other instances of ungenerous conduct,) 
he was received by Paez's cavalry, and others, with 
hisses and accusations of cowardice, for having 
evacuated Calabozo so precipitately, and for his de- 
feat at Los Cerritos. They were even proceeding 
to use him roughly, when his bodyguard, on hearing 
of this disturbance, left their camp in the environs, 
and entering the town at a gallop, commenced a 
skirmish, in the streets, with those who had insulted 
their chief. The tumult became so serious, that 
Bolivar shut himself up in his quarters ; and it was 
only put a stop to by the appearance of Paez, of 
whom all stood in awe. He took Zedeno by the 
hand, and led him trembling, pale, and agitated 
through the midst of the infuriated rioters, who 
glared in silence on the recreant general, but dared 
not raise a finger against him, while under his pre- 
sent safe-guard. He ordered such of the officers 
of both parties, as were most to blame, to be set in 
the stocks at the calabozo ; to which punishment 
they all submitted without a murmur. Two of 
them were colonels in his army, who enjoyed in an 
especial manner his favour and confidence. Aris- 
mendi, a remarkably handsome and intelligent 
Zambo, belonging to his guard ; and Castro, who 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. Ill 

was some years after appointed by Bolivar Gover- 
nor of the province of Caiica. Paez then provided 
Zedeno with a gun-boat, and advised him to retire 
to Cumani ; which advice was immediately follow- 
ed, and order was restored in San Fernando. This 
affray, which might have led to serious consequen- 
ces, was set at rest solely by the prompt conduct of 
Paez ; whose decided character gave him the great- 
est influence over the minds of both officers and 
soldiers. 

Bolivar, meanwhile, continued shut up in his 
house, with his aides-de-camp and secretaries ; and 
determined on embarking in a launch, and proceed- 
ing to Angostura ; which he did, in a private man- 
ner, that very night. It was conjectured, at the 
time, that he did not think it prudent to remain 
without a body guard, or troops on whom he could 
depend, among such irregular soldiery as were the 
Llan^ros ; for they, as well as the rest of the cavalry, 
collected in the plains of the Aptiri, were devoted 
exclusively to their own chiefs; such as Rangel, 
Carbaj^l, and Juan Gomez; and, above all, en- 
thusiastically attached to Paez. Besides this, the 
season of floods had set in, and the rivers where 
already so much swollen, as to render it necessary 
for the troops to go into winter quarters ; so that 
all thoughts of proceeding any farther in the pre- 
sent campaign were abandoned. 

Bolivar, on retiring from San Fernando, left it to 
the option of the foreigners, whether they would 
return to Angostura with him, or remain in the 
Apuri with Paez. The Colonel of the First Vene- 
zuelan Hussars decided on attending Bolivar ; but 



112 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

this determination was strenuously opposed by his 
officers, who disliked the idea of returning to Guay- 
ana, without having seen the Spanish army, or 
heard a shot fired ; especially as the Red Hussars^ 
and Ferrier's artillery, had unanimously agreed to 
remain in the plains. The soldiers, also, were loud 
in their disapprobation of the return ; and were 
stimulated to resist it, by the ridicule that their 
countrymen of equal rank, in the other regiments, 
lavished on them. €ren. Paez did not ostensibly 
interfere in any way ; but the manner in which he 
enquired of different officers, whether they meant 
to put up with the poor accommodations that the 
plains afforded, or to return to the comforts of 
Angostura, sufficiently evinced his anxiety for 
them to remain. All the officers, except the ad- 
jutant, colonel's secretary, and another who had 
been accidentally wounded, sent in their resigna- 
tions, and volunteered into the Red Hussars. 
When the appointed hour arrived, for the embark- 
ation of the soldiers, scarcely a man of them could 
be induced to enter the boats. They expressed their 
determination to join their countrymen ; and Paez 
refused to interfere between foreigners. The two 
regiments were, consequently, united, under the 
command of Col. Wilson ; and, some picked criole 
soldiers having been added to them, a fine efficient 
corps, was formed. 

A review was shortly afterwards ordered, pre- 
paratory to breaking up the camp at San Fernando, 
und proceeding to La Isla de Achaguas ; where 
provisions were much more plentiful, and better 
accommodations to be had for the troops. On this 



CAMPAIGNS AND GRtJI8£S. 113 

occasion, die field-officers of the different regiments 
having' assembled, diey proposed to confer on Paez 
the same title, — that of Capitan Generaly — that 
BoHvar, Santiago Marino, and McGregor abready 
held, as a mark of the confidence that the army 
reposed in him. Paez expressed no disapproba* 
tion whatsoever at this proposal ; but it was never 
attempted to be put into execution. Nevertheless, 
he afterwards took occasion, from it, to injure 
privately, in the opinion of Bolivar, an officer, with 
wliose conduct towards himself he had every reason 
to be satisfied ; and whose strenuous exertions in 
organising, and personally drilling, the only r^ular 
corps that Paez had, at that time, under his com- 
mand, ought to have called for his g^ratitude. This 
occurrence, though unimportant in itself, was stu- 
diously misrepresented and exaggerated to Bolivar ; 
who was nervously alive to any appearance of 
intrigue among his generals, and expressed himself 
highly offended with Paez on the subject. 

The town of Achaguas, where we were quar- 
tered during the greater part of the rainy season, 
is situated on the banks of the Apurito, an incon- 
siderable brook in dry weather, but swelled by the 
floods to the size of the Apuri. It runs aiU of the 
latter river in the rainy season, and joins the 
Araiico ; forming, by that junction, together with 
the Orinoco, the island of Achaguas. The place 
is not large ; but is convenient, from its situation, 
for the head-quarters of cavalry ; for it borders on 
the g^reat plains, or Llanos of Varinas, which ex- 
tend as fieur as the river Cazanares. 

Paez established here a mint, for the use of the 



114 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

army. This Dew establishment, for the simplicity 
of its machinery, and economy observed in the 
number of officers employed, was perhaps unri- 
valled in any country. In a room in the PlasEa, 
where some of the English were quartered, a block 
of wood was fixed in the brick floor, and a small 
anvil was driven into the top of it ; having a die 
engraved on it, representing one side of a pezita^ 
or quarter-dollar. The stamp, for the reverse of 
this coin, was on a short piece of steel, secured in 
a handle of iron, for the convenience of striking it 
with a sledge hammer, when placed on a piece of 
metal of the proper size and weight, which was lud 
on the under die, or anvil. The shape of this coin 
was totally disregarded ; nor was the master of the 
mint much more particular about the weight of 
each separate piece. This, certainly, was of very 
little consequence, when it is considered, of what 
metal this money, purporting to be silver, was 
coined. 

Paez had collected, for this purpose, a consider- 
able quantity of old silver, of difiPerent kinds, such 
as stirrups, sword scabbards, and various other or- 
naments, taken from the enemy by his troops, who 
were exceedingly expert in plundering: he had 
also bought up private and church plate to a large 
amount. All this was melted down, with one fourth 
of copper, which mixture, together with the pre- 
vious alloy contained in the silver, formed, it must 
be allowed, a base metal worthy of such a mint. 
The only officers, employed in the coinage, were a 
smith of all work, who had been used to make and 
repair coarse articles in silver, and his son, a lad of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 115 

about fifteen years old. There was no mystery- 
practised, with respect to the adulteration of the 
current coin ; the doors being left open, without 
even a centry on them. The process was simply 
this. After having run the metal into narrow bars, 
these were heated red hot, in a common forge, and 
hammered out to the proper thickness. The blanks 
were then cut, as nearly of the proper weight as 
could be guessed, with a cold chisel; and were 
finished for stamping, by roughly filing off the cor- 
ners of each piece, so as to leave a kind of polygon, 
resembling what is called in the West Indies, 
cut-money. 

This coin, though undoubtedly a base currency, 
was of the most essential service to the army, and 
the neighbouring country ; as there was previously 
a great want of a circulating medium. It readily 
passed current, for the fuU value assigned it ; be- 
cause Paez, whose word was confided in, by the in- 
habitants of his province, had promised to call it all 
in, when he should be enabled to do so, by a more 
flourishing state of affairs. This promise was 
punctually performed, about a year after; when 
Bolivar brought up sterling money from Guayana 
sufficient to call in all the depreciated coinage. 
Few, however, of the Llan^ros troubled themselves 
about exchanging it, and it long after continued in 
circulation in Varinas. 

Our diversions, while quartered at Achaguas, 
were, necessarily, very circumscribed; the deep 
mud in the savannas, and the swollen state of the 
streams, not admitting of our riding to the neigh- 
bouring plantations, with any degree of comfort. 



116 CAMPAIGNS AKD CRUISES. 

As for walking in the town, those who were fortu- 
nate enough to be still possessed of shoes or boots, 
in which number were included the newly arrived 
English, soon found that they were a useless in- 
cumbrance, even in the streets, which were mostly 
knee-deep in mud. Our chief amusement consisted 
in visiting the families of emigrants. Numbers of 
these were here, who had seen better days, and 
whose conversation, interspersed with anecdotes of 
their eventful times, was highly interesting. Among 
them, the Padre Cura of Guadualito, Don Manuel 
Quadras, was particularly visited by the English 
officers in the evenings. He was a man of superior 
education and talents ; and had been accompanied 
in his exile, (as it might be called,) by his sister 
and two nieces ; whose guitars, and singing, were 
always ready to enliven the dull hours we passed 
in these winter quarters. 

Paez, meanwhile, did every thing in his power 
to make us as comfortable as possible ; and provided 
a corral full of milch-cows, purposely for the Eng- 
lish. Whenever he could procure any aguardiente, 
to animate his guests, he would invite all the town 
to a dance, in which he used to join in the most 
unwearied style of any. He is excessively fond of 
this amusement, and was considered, by the ladies 
of Achaguas, the best dancer in Varinas. At other 
times, he would order a number of wild horses to 
be driven into the Plaza, which was covered with 
a smooth turf ; and would amuse himself by giving 
them to his guard to break in, and frequently, by 
mounting them himself, as he is a very expert 
rough-rider. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISEg. 117 

The feast of San Juan Bautista, which is always 
celebrated in S. America by horse-racing and 
bon-fires, was kept up in a most extraordinary 
manner in Achaguas. There was no ground whatever, 
either in the town or the neighbourhood, on which 
racing was practicable. Paez, however, mounted 
his horse before day-break, attended by several of 
his staff, most of them without saddles, and having 
on merely their shirts and drawers ; and proceeded 
with them round the town, playing on vihtielcts, and 
calling on every body, especially the foreigners, to 
turn out and follow him. The streets were exces- 
sively muddy ; and the diversion consisted, chiefly, 
in every one making his neighbour as dirty as he 
possibly could. This object was so easily effected, 
that the natural colours of both horses and men 
were soon completely undistinguishable. Those 
that refused, or even delayed to join the revellers, 
were pulled out of bed, sans ceremonie, and rolled 
in the mud. Among the rest, the alcalde of the 
town, Don Pepe Nunez, who was always remark- 
ably neat in his dress, and who had been lately 
married, was detected in endeavouring to escape, 
and shared the common fate. After riding about 
some time in this pickle, Paez led the way in 
swimming the river Apurito, where all that had 
been concerned in this frolic effectually cleansed 
themselves, and their horses, from the mud with 
which they were covered. They then separated 
to their quarters, to clothe themselves, and prepare 
to attend the general at breakfast, to which every 
officer at head-quarters had been invited. 

What this dejeune a la fourchette wanted in ele- 



118 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISE 

gance, was amply compensated by the plenty and 
variety of the viands. Of meat, there were ribs^ 
zezincts, and rayas of savanna beef, wild hogs from 
Mericuri> and venison from the neighbouring woods 
of Gramarra. Of poultry, there were wild ducksi 
pattxisy and guacharaccLSy and plenty of fish from 
the Apurito. Maiz bread, in aripcLSy boUoSy and 
roscaSi with cheese and quardpoy crowned the 
banquet. 



CHAPTER Vlir. 

TOUR THROUGH FAEZ*S PROVINCE — WILD CATTLE AND HORSES. 
— WILD ASSES. — ^DAIRY FARM IN THE LLANOS. — SUBSTITUTE 
FOR SALT. — MILKING WILD COWS. — ^METHOD OF BREAKING 
IN HORSES. — BURNING THE LONG GRASS.— PA EZ*S STRATA-. 

GEM AGAINST SPANISH TROOPS. — USES OF THE GUADUA. 

MOUNTAIN BRIDGES. — TRAPICHIS, OR SUGAR MILLS. — COUN- 
TRY STILLS. — PLANTAINS. — DARING CONDUCT OF A LLANERO. 
— EXTRACT OF TOBACCO USED FOR CHEWING. 

Paez, having determined to take a tour, during 
this peaceful interval, round that part of the pro- 
vince of Varinas that . was not in the possession of 
the royalists, selected six of the English officers, 
who could speak the Spanish language best, to 
accompany him. This invitation was chiefly for 
the purpose of gratifying the curiosity of the in- 
habitants of the Llanos ; for they had heard of the 
arrival of the foreigners, and were anxious for aa 
opportunity of seeing them. It was necessary for 
all, who accompanied Paez on this tour, to be able 
to swim well ; for the plains were by this time in- 
undated in many parts, and all the creeks that in- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 119 

tersected them, though dry at other times of the 
year, were now broad and deep, 

The Llanos of Varinas consist of a very exten- 
sile tract of low land, situated between the rivers 
Orinoco and Apuri. They are totally uncultivat- 
ed ; except on the borders, where the land is higher, 
and less subject to inundations. These plains are 
covered, in every direction, as fsu: as the eye reaches, 
with a long coarse grass, which afiPords pasture to 
innumerable herds of wild cattle and horses. These 
are all descendants from the Spanish stock, which 
has been introduced into South America, subsequent 
to the conquest ; for it is well known, that the 
oiig^al inhabitants had no tame animals larger 
than the llama and guajidco, nor wild ones of any 
great size, except the danta, a species of tapir. 
The cows and horses have increased so excessively, 
as to be found in abundance, in every latitude, 
from California to Patagonia. In the Llanos of 
Venezuela, in particular, and in the Pampas of 
Buenos Ayres, where the richness of the pasture, 
and extent of level ground, are very great, their 
numbers are reaUy incredible. En some parts they 
are so numerous, as literally to render it necessary 
for a party of cavalry to precede an army, on the 
inarch, for the purpose of clearing the way for the 
infantry and guns. 

The herds of wild horses present a beautiful spec- 
tacle, when they are alarmed in their native wilds, 
by the intrusion of an army. Instead of flying, as 
the deer, and other timid animals, they gallop round 
in compact masses of many thousands, apparently 
for the purpose of reconnoitring the strangers ; and 



120 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

frequeotly advance boldly to within a few yards of 
the line of march, where they halt to gaze at the 
troops, snorting, and shewing every sign of astonish- 
ment and displeasure, especiaUy at sight of the 
cavalry. These droves are always headed by some 
fine looking old bashaws, whose flowing manes aad 
tails, plainly show that they have never been sub- 
ject to man's controul ; and in the rear, the mares 
and colts follow. 

There are also to be seen, in some parts, herds of 
wild asses ; doubtless of the breed of those that 
have been tamed loose, during the general wreck 
of the farms and plantations caused by the revo- 
lutionary war ; which has also stocked the plains 
with hogs, and packs of wild dogs. These last 
have, in many places, increased so much, as to be 
dangerous to small parties of travellers ; being of 
the breed of the fleet and ferocious tiger dog of 
Cuman'A, so valuable for protecting the cattle 
against the attacks of the panther and jaguar. We 
often saw them, during this excursion ; and still 
more frequently heard them, at night, howling like 
wolves among the ruins of the hatos^ which they 
used once to guard. 

The breed of asses has greatly improved in form 
and appearance, by being at large. Instead of the 
dejected sluggish drudges, that tliey are, in general, 
wlien domesticated, these are tall and elegantly 
made, with heads erect, and the activity of a deer. 
Their colour is a dark brown, with bright white 
under the breast and belly. The young colts are 
hunted for their skins, which have long silky hair, 
nearly black, and are much esteemed for twaddle 
cloths. 



OABfPAlONS AND CRUISES. 121 

As there are no roads through the plains, it is 
Tery difficult for a stranger to find his way from 
one fium to another. These are situated a day's 
march or more apart, to allow sufficient range for 
their respective herds of cattle, without interfering 
with each other. The inhabitants guide themselves 
by dumps of trees, generally pakns, which are to 
be seen at considerable distances apart, giving the 
idea of islands in the ocean. These are called 
mdiaSf and have in general received distinguishing 
names from the Llan6ros, as ** Mdta del Zamurro^^ 
^ M6ta del Capmdn," &e. ; by which means they 
can direct each other to any particular part, when 
in search of stray horses or mules. 

In the few farms which remain inhabited, being 
necessarily remote from the cultivated districts, 
and, in a great measure, from all civilized society, 
may be seen a curious specimen of pastof^ life ; 
where hospitality is exercised as a matter of course, 
and the visitor is considered as the person confer- 
ring the obligation. The houses attached to these 
kai09 are all on the ground floor, consisting in 
general of a large hall, the walls of which are 
hung round with saddles, bridles, and lazos ; con- 
taining, for furniture, one large table, and several 
long massy escanos, or settles, too heavily made to 
be ever moved. Here all the inmates eat, when 
driven in by the rain ; and the males of the family 
an sleep, in bad weather ; each having an undressed 
bollock's hide for a bed. This tuero, as it is called, 
idthongh suppled in some measure by constant use, 
is by no means softer than the earthen floor. There 
% also, a separate apartment, or two, for the 

a 



122 CAMPAIGNS AMD CRUISES^ 

females' use in winter. In the summer^ it is the 
custom for all to sleep in the open air, on aocovist 
of the heat ; and the neighbourhood of the corral 
is generally selected, as a protection against the 
sutncudasy which always prefer attacking the cow% 
whose skins they completely cover. 

On arriving at one of these farms, no ceremony 
whatever is used, except the usual salutation ef 
<' Ave Maria purisima /" The travellers' horses 
are immediately unsaddled, and turned loose ; for 
it is quite a matter of indifiPerence whether they 
stray or not, as there are always plenty of horses 
close at hand, which are considered completely 
public property. Water is then brought to wash 
the strangers feet ; after which, every one spreads 
his doak or blanket in the shade, and lies down, 
using his saddle for a pillow. Meanwhile, one of 
the family has already saddled a horse, and set out 
in search of a calf, or young heifer, for which they 
have seldom far to ride : indeed, they generally 
keep one tied up in the corral, in readiness for 
their daily use, as meat will not keep here until the 
next day after being killed. In less than half an 
hour, an abundance of roast beef is set before the 
visitors ; and sometimes, but very rarely in the 
remote haciendas, some ar^pa. Salt is usually 
very scarce, (it was at this time worth twelve 
dollars a pound) ; and, when it is to be procured, 
is melted in water, and presented in a calabaidi, 
into which each morsel of meat is dipped. By thia 
management, a small quantity of salt goes farther 
than if it were used in substance. The repast con- 
cludes with milk, cheese, and generally aguardiente. 



CAlfPAIONS AND CRUISES. 123 

Although these people, secluded as they are 
from society, must naturally be very desirous of 
hearing news of any kind, their innate sense of 
politeness forbids them to annoy their guests by 
asking questions, until they have satisfied their 
appetite. They retire to rest soon after sunset ; 
and, previous to lying down, the patriarch of the 
family, who has probably scores of young des- 
cendants on the farm, working in company with, 
and in no way distinguished from, the peons, 
redtes the Hosario, or evening service to the 
Vlrg^ ; every one present standing, and joining in 
the responses. This religious ceremony is scarcely 
ever omitted by the South Americans. It is scru- 
pulously adhered to by the boatmen on the Orinoco, 
when they land for the night; and, as I had an 
opportunity of seeing, by the Guerill^ros, as my 
friends of the palm forest modestly stiled them- 
selves. 

These cattle farms, or hatos as they are usually 
called, formerly carried on a very extensive trade 
in cheese, tazafo, and mules, previous to the break- 
ing out of the war with the mother country. But, 
when the revolution commenced, the communica- 
tion was cut o£P between the plains, and the hilly 
country near the sea coast, where they used to dis- 
pose of the produce of the farms. Besides, every 
man capable of bearing arms was obliged to join 
one side or another; for there can be no such 
thing as neutrality during a civil war ; — especially 
as this was conducted. All supplies from the coast 
were, in like manner, cut o£P from the Llaneros ; 
and, among the rest, that very necessary article, 

Q 2 



124 CABfPAIONS AND ORUISES. 

salt. The want of this occasioned greal disCresi^ 
in the plains ; as the food of the inhabitants eon- 
sisted almost entirely of meat. Without salt, it 
was of course impossible to make good dieese, or 
preserve the tazajOy even if there had been any 
means of disposing of these conmiodities w1m» 
made. 

As a substitute for salt, they used frequently to 
collect earth from places in the savanna where the 
cattle had long been in the habit of resorting ; and, 
after pouring boiling water on it, they strained the 
infusion, and evaporated it to dryness. Tt niB 
easily be conceived, that nothing, but q gti ^e m e 
necessity, would recommend this salt; which, 
besides its dirty appearance, was exceedingly bitter. 

Their manner of milking cows is rather singular. 
As they are totally wild, the farmers are obliged 
to be constantly on the look out, at the seasoB 
when they drop their calves. All those found 
within the bounds of their farm they collect, and 
convey to the corrals, followed by the cows ; which 
assemble morning and evening, where their calves 
are tied up, as long as they have any milk. At 
milking time, the calves are let loose by turns, and 
soon find their respective mothers ; but are quickly 
followed by a milker, who can then approach the 
cow without alarming her, and, having tied the 
calf to her knee, may proceed to milk the animal 
without interruption. 

Some cows, however, will gire down no milk at 
first to their calves, while confined in a comL 
These are literally strangled into compliance. A 
lazo is **•-'*"'« fnnnH tlie animnr« npolc. tho nthpr 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. IS3 

md of irhick is passed over the forked bninclies of 
» tree, always either suffered to remain, on clearing- 
the gToand for a corral, or planted there after- 
wards, chiefly for this purpose. The cow ia then 
koisted Qp, by two or three men, until i^he can 
barely touch the ground with her hind feet. Thi» 
in said to take immediate effect ; and b repeated, 
M often as ahe refuses to give down her milk. 

When the Llaneros wish tu procure horses, they 
drive together a herd of ehucaros ( out of which, 
every man who wants a burse singles out which- 
ever be prefers, and noozes him with the lazo. 
Two or more men hold this line firmly, until the 
borse falls, from Mutual strangulation by the hiilter. 
which is tightened round his throat by his own 
violent efforts to escape ; while, at the same time, 
be receives repeated severe stunning blows on the 
head, with a bludn;eon, which is used, unsparingly, 
during the first stages of horse-breaking. While 
the animal is insensible, they tie bis legs, put a 
bozal, or kind of bead-stall on him, iiith a tapofo, 
ur moveable strap, by which bis eyes can he covered 
when necessary, and immediately saildlo liim ; 
talcing particular tare that the girths, which ara 
^^^ude of twisted hide, are dratvn suOiuiently tiglit. 
^^Hny at first merely use a hair rope — fcabesiroj — 
^^^Eway of baiter; as the horse cannot for aotae 
^^^Kb endure a bit in bis mouth, without rearing 
^^H foiling on the rider. The legs are thi^ii untied, 
^^Bl the nooBo that is round the tliroat, hiiiif 
B^Sttkaned, the animal in a short ti 

iho temporary strangulation, and risesihj 
i{uiet ; trembling, however, violentlyf I 







126 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

When the rider has monnted, and has wdl 
secured himself in his seat, he raises the tapqfOf and 
the contest commences, between the strength and 
activity of a terrified wild animal, stroggling for 
freedom, and the inimitable horsemanship of the 
Llan^ros. The horse appears, at first, so confosed 
and astonished, as to be incapable of motion ; but 
is soon roused by the shouts and blows of the 
rider's companions. When once he has recovered 
from his momentary stupor, the exertions that he 
makes to get rid of his burthen are wonderM, and 
most trying to a rider. The S. American horses 
have, nevertheless, very little vice, and rarely^ if 
ever, roll on the ground, or run against trees ; 
manoeuvres that would inevitably dismount th6 
best possible rider. 

The technical term, which the Llan^ros upply to 
the wild horse's first struggles, is corcovear^ from the 
manner in which the animal arches his back, and 
springs forward in a succession of bounds ; strikii^ 
the ground with all four feet at the same time. 
The horse appears to sti£Fen himself purposely, so 
as to avoid all pliability in his joints, and make 
the rider, by that means, feel the fall violence of 
every severe jolt. To endure this motion, which 
does not last very long, is the most di£Bcult part of 
the task. The loins and spine are frequently 
severely strained by it; and, to avoid this, the 
Llan^ros always tie their ruano^ or ft thin blanket, 
round their waist, as a support. As long as tiie 
liorse continues to plunge in this way, the rider 
makes frequent use of the cudgel, that has been 
before noticed in describing the process of saddling. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 127 

This Yiolent usage soon breaks tlie animal's spirit ; 
and, in a day or two, he begins to move in a slow 
unwilling trot, which is considered as a certain 
symptom of his commencing to be tamed. 

Many of tibe natives never made nse of a bit, 
being too indolent to take the trouble of accustom- 
ing tibe horse it ; for this kind of second breaking 
is nearly as troublesome as the first. A consider- 
able time must elapse, before a horse will stand 
^et to be saddled and unsaddled, without having 
hifl eyes previously covered with tibe tapojo. By 
neglecting this ]^recantion, I once lost a capital 
young charger, which Bolivar had just given me, 
with saddle, bridle, valise, and — ^worst loss of all — 
my blanket. My servant, a young French criole 
of the isle of France, who had followed poor 
McDonald from Elngland, attempted to unsaddle 
the horse without covering his eyes ; but the animal 
struck him down with its fore feet, and soon dis- 
appeared across the savanna. 

The great fertility of the soil in the Llanos, and 
the partial inundations by which they are every 
year covered, cause the grass to grow so luxuriantly, 
and at the same time so coarsely, that it is unfit for 
cattle to eat, when it has been dried by the heats 
of summer ; for it then resembles dry reeds, rather 
than grass. It is necessary for it, therefore, to be 
burned down in autumn, when it is perfectly dry, 
so as to give room for the young grass to grow up 
from the roots of the old, which takes place inmie- 
diately after the first rains. To efiect this, the 
Llaa^ros set fire to the grass of the plains at dif- 
ferent points, producing a conflagration^ which 



128 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

extends for leagues, and affords a magnificent spec- 
tacle, when seen from a distance. To form an ad- 
equate idea of it, it must be remembered, that the 
dry grass is from eight to ten feet high, and grows 
very thick ; aad that there is frequently seen, along 
the line of dusky red fire, a solitary palm tree in 
flames, whose age has rendered it sufficiently dry 
to bum. The rapidity with which the volumes oi 
fire are driven on by the wind, that constantly pre* 
vails in these level plains, is terrific, and threatens 
certain destruction to any living being, that should 
unfortunately be surprised by it. There b, how- 
ever, generally sufficient warning given, by the 
clouds of black smoke that cover the sky in the di- 
rection of the conflagration, giving the sun a lurid 
red appearance. In the rear of the flames, whose 
track is marked by the smoking roots of grasSy and 
the blackened soil, flocks of vultures and gcUUnazot, 
follow, which find abundant subsistence, as long 
as the fire lasts, in the multitude of snakes, boll- 
frogs, and other small animals, which have been 
overtaken by the flames, and scorched to death. 

Paez, on one occasion, made the combustible 
nature of the dry grass in the savannas available, 
in an attack on the enemy. He had surrounded a 
detachment of the royalist army, consisting entirely 
of infantry, with his lancers, within less than a 
league of a town called Mantecal, but, as his own 
force, being composed of cavalry, had but few fire- 
arms with them, he could make no impression upon 
the enemy, which had formed a solid square. The 
Spaniards, although within sight of the town, 
where, if they could have reached it, they would 



OAMPAIOKS AND CRUISES. 129 

luive been peifectly safe from the attacks of caval- 
ry, did not dare to deploy^ for the purpose of 
gaining the edge of the wood ; for they held the 
lancers in great dread, and could not keep them at 
a sufficient distance to hazard any manoeuyre, on 
account of the shelter the high grass afiPorded them« 
Paez, who is of a violent temper, and impatient of 
any obstacle to his designs, used every exertion to 
break or dislodge the infantry opposed to him ; but 
to no purpose, as they were well aware that their 
lives diepended on their remaining firm. He first 
tried an expedient, highly characteristic of one 
who had been brought up a herdsman. This was, 
to collect a number of wild cattle that were grazing 
near, and to drive them violently among the enemy, ^ 
by goading them with lances, and alarming them 
with the wild Llan^ro shouts. This caused a 
momentary confusion, that soon subsided: but 
Paez suddenly thought of firing the dry grass, 
which was immediately done in several places, to 
windward of the enemy's position. The flames, of 
course, e£Pectually dislodged the unfortunate Span- 
iards ; and those who were not su£Pocated by the 
smoke, and blown up by their own cartridges, fell 
an easy prey to the vengeance of the lancers. 

These indiscriminate massacres, which disg^raced 
both parties, during the first struggle for inde- 
pendence in S. America, sound dreadful in civilised 
ears. We must, however, pause, before we judge 
these rude Llaneros as rigidly as their antagonists. 
From whom could the ignorant native of S. Ameri. 
ca, learn the usages of war, but from the Spaniards? 
And what was the civilised Euri»pean*s conduct, 

o 3 



130 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

when conqueror ? Invariably every prisoner was 
massacred in cold blood ; villages and fiurms were 
ravaged and burned ; and every s{»ecies of cmdlty 
and insult, without compassion for se:x: or age, were 
practised upon an unresisting, and often on an un- 
ofFending population:— cruelties that emulated those 
practised by the discoverers of the New "World, 
and which could only have been perpetrated by 
those miscreants, who were sent from Spain, under 
the name of soldiers, picked out of jails and con- 
demned regiments, purposely to be a scourge to 
the insubordinate colonies ; and who were supported 
and encoiuraged in their excesses by such as Morillo, 
whose name is mentioned with execration, ^ven by 
his own countrymen. 

Revenge is a virtue in the opinion of the un- 
civilised. Ought those then to be harshly judged, 
who had been driven forth from their homes, each 
individual]smarting under the recollection of wrongs 
and cruelties inflicted on himself, or on those who 
were dearest to him, if they retaliated as often as 
they had it in their power ? 

The gtLadua, or S. American bambu, abounds in 
many parts of these plains, forming extensive 
woods along the banks of the rivers. This is a 
gigantic species of cane, growing to the height of 
ninety feet, and frequently even more, with a beau- 
tiful feathery appearance. The upper part bends 
gracefully downwards, and is covered with long 
slender branches, which spring from the joints, and 
bear very small light leaves. This cane is ex- 
tremely useful for the purpose of building houses, 
and bridges ; as well as for fencing plantations, and 



CAMPJJGNS AND CRUISES. 131 

sorroimding corrals ; for it resists the injuries of 
the weather for many years. The thickest parts 
serve for posts, beams, and rafters. They are also 
formed into broad planks, by being split open 
longitudinally with an axe, and spread out, by 
cutting through the alternate joints, at sufficient 
distances to allow of their hanging together. In 
this state, they answer very well for roofing, and 
for flooring the upper story, which is that generally 
inhabited where these houses are in use, as a re- 
treat from vermin, noxious animals, and damp. 
The ascent to it, is by means of the trunk of a tree, 
in which notches are cut for the feet. The guadua 
also serves for making bedsteads, tables, and escanos ; 
which are ^oih light and neat. The walls of the 
houses are made of the small bnmches, tied closely 
together with slender slips of the be^'uco^ or with 
thin thongs of raw hide, and are plastered over 
with clay. The thickest canes being frequently 
eight or nine inches in diameter, are made into 
buckets, by cutting off joints for that purpose. 
Small barrels are also made of the same ; and are 
in frequent use for holding molasses or aguar- 
diente. 

One of the principal uses of the guadtuiy for 
which it is in great request, is for building bridges 
across the narrow rivers in the plains ; and it is 
particularly adapted to the same purpose among 
the mountains, as, from its lightness, it can be con- 
veyed up steep passes, where stone or timber could 
only be carried with the greatest difficulty. The 
length, elasticity, and strength of the guadua^ the 
smallest branches of which are hard to be broken, 



132 CAMPAIGNS AND CBXJWSS. 

render it invaluable in cases where a single arch | 
is requisite, as over a mountain torrent, whose bed I 
is too far beneath its banks, and stream too im- i 
petuous, to admit of piers being laid. A sofficient 
number of the longest and stoutest canes, well se- 
cured together lengthwise, and firmly fixed in the 
banks at each side, will necessarily form an arch 
by their elasticity ; and a series of these, sufficient 
for the breadth of the bridge, well connected by 
cross pieces in every direction, soon affords a secure 
passage to an army. It is easily constructed, | 
and readily destroyed, when necessary, for the pur- \ 
pose of delaying an advancing enemy. Hiesei; 
bridges are, in some measure, formed on the sus- { 
pension plan ; for they are always built where ' 
trees, on both banks, afford a facility of having 
long canes fastened to their branches, and attached 
to the bridge below. Although they are perfectly 
secure, they can scarcely be crossed without a feel- \ 
ing of danger ; as their elasticity causes them to 
vibrate considerably, on the least impulse being 
given them. When they are intended to be per- 
manent, ledges are added to the sides^ and the 
pathway is rendered more secure, by being cover- 
ed with split cane. 

In some parts of the Llanos, the sugar^nme is 
cultivated, and appears to thrive well ; but, at the 
same time, it runs more into leaf than that planted 
in the hilly country ; is thicker, and g^ves more 
juice, with less saccharine matter in proportion. A 
small thin species, called cana crioUctj very sweet, 
and soft, is cultivated solely for chewing. 

The trapichis, or sugar miUs, contain very in- 



CAMPAIGNS AND GRyiSBS. 133 

artificial i^paratns for squeezing the canes ; con- 
sistingy in general, merely of two horizontal wooden 
cylinders, nearly in contact. The upper one is 
furnished with four holes, for receiving the ends of 
handspikes, by which it is turned round, in the same 
way as the windlass used on board merchant vesseb. 
Under this is placed a wooden trough, hollowed 
out of a block ofeaoba wood, which receives the juice 
that is expressed. These are clumsy machines, 
and very tedious in their operation ; but those that 
are worked by mules are scarcely more efficient ; 
and in both there is a great waste of juice, as the 
whole of it can never be properly extracted from 
the canes. 

The juice is generally used merely after being 
stAiined and fermented. In this state it afiPords a 
pleasant, and sometimes very strong drink, named 
guardpo* In in most trapichis they distil a portion 
of the fermented juice, in a still of a very simple 
construction ; being merely a large earthen pot, 
having another, rather smaller, inverted over it for 
a head, and luted to it vKth clay. Instead of a 
worm, they use a long hollow cane, covered with 
ragps or cotton wool to retain the water, which they 
continually pour on it, to cool the vapour passing 
through. By this process they procure an ardent 
spirit, of a very unpleasant smell and taste, of which 
nevertheless the natives are excessively fond. It is 
called, with great propriety, agttardtente^ i.e. burn- 
ing water ; for it almost excoriates the mouth and 
throat, when swallowed imdiluted, as is their con- 
stant custom. They also make considerable quan- 
tities of a thick, dark 'coloured, syrup, called here 



134 CAMPAIGNS AND CAUI8E8. 

meladoy or im«/y which diey use with cheese, and 
mazamurray a sort of hasty pudding, made of boiled 
maize, bruised on a stone. On some few phmtations 
they boil the syrup down, without clarifying it, 
and pour it into moulds, where it forms a coarse, 
ungranulated substance ; called, according to the 
shi^e of the moxAd^y papddn and panilcu On the 
coast of Peru, where it is also made, the natives 
give it the name of chancdca. 

The plantain, also, grows in abundance, on the 
rich soil near the rivers, in spots that are rarely in- 
undated. This is very incorrectly styled a tree ; 
for, although it grows to the height of twenty or 
thirty feet, it is merely composed of a thick pith, 
from which springs a succession of leaves, without 
branches. The young leaves, that shoot out near 
the top, have a beautiful appearance. They are of 
a light green colour, oval shaped, about five or six 
feet long, and nearly afoot in breadth. These soon 
turn yellow, are split into shreds by the wind, 
and fall ofip, leaving room for others. The flowers 
grow in circular rings, at about an inch and a half 
apart, on a stalk that rises from the top of the plant, 
and curves downwards among the leaves. They 
are bell-shaped, and grow upwards, contrary to the 
direction that the flower stalk takes. The same is 
observable with respect to the fruit ; one of which 
appears in the place of each flower, as it ^ades ; 
resembling, at first, in colour and shape, a young 
bean or lupine ; but, when ripe, it is .nine inches 
long, and thick in proportion. This plant requires 
scarcely any care ; the young plants apparently 
rising from the roots of the old ones, which fall 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 135 

every three or four years, and, when decomposed, 
afford good manure to those that remain. 

Plantain walks are a favonrite resort of hum- 
ming birds, which appear to prefer the flowers of this 
plant to most others. They are also much infested 
by snakes; rendering it dangerous to leave the 
. beaten paths. Good sized bunches of fruit frequent- 
ly weigh forty poimds. It forms a principal part 
of the food of the natives, where this plant is culti- 
vated ; and is chiefly used while unripe, either 
roasted in the embers or boiled. A kind of bread 
called by the Indians fi-fh is also made of them, 
when bruised and dried in an oven. This was in 
use among the first patriot troops, when on long 
marches ; and from that circumstance the Spaniards 
gave the insui^ents the nick-name oiFifis. 

Tobacco is seldom planted on the southern bank 
of the Aptiri, except in small quantities for private 
use. On the opposite side, however, in the neigh- 
bourhood of Obispos, and other villages approach- 
ing the hilly country, it is extensively cultivated. 
The celebrated Varinas tobacco grows here. It is 
highly esteemed by the Spaniards ; and considered 
by them as nearly, if not quite, equal to that pro- 
duced in the island of Cuba. As the whole of the 
tobacco country was, at this time, occupied by the 
royalist armies, the herb, which is completely a 
necessary of life among the crioles, was excessively 
scarce. The troops smoked dried leaves of dif- 
ferent wild plants ; and even chopped the rushei 
from the mules pack-saddles, as a substitute for it. 
One of Paez's guardia de honor, an active reso- 
lute Zambo, resolved to endure this privation no 



136 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

longer. He swam the Aradco by night ; penetra- 
tedy in disguise, through the Spanish out-posts, at 
the risk of being hung for a spy, as far as Obizpos, 
where he had relations ; and returned in triumph 
with three pounds of tobacco, which was all he 
could conyeniently procure. Two of the small 
rolls he sold immediately, at a doubloon and a hall^ 
each ; but the third he would neither sell nor give 
to any one, saying, that he had hazarded his life for 
it, and was determined to enjoy it. 

The inhabitants of both banks of the Apuri, and 
the neighboi^hood, are extremely fond of an extract 
of tobacco, called by them chuniy made of the leaves 
and stalks of that plant, with red peppers, and other 
strong ingredients. After many hours boiling, the 
decoction is strained, and evaporated to a consist- 
ence something thinner than Spanish liquorice. 
This extract they keep in small boxes, and the fe- 
males, in particular, are in the habit of chewing it 
at all times, without feeling any apparent inconve- 
nience from a drug, which must certainly be very 
deleterious; especially as, while using it, they rarely 
gb«rid of the saliva, as those do who chew tobacco ; 
and the^Aoiquently go to sleep with a piece of the 
extract in thw mouth. This habit must be acquired 
by degrees, in thv-^t^me manner as that of taking 
opium ; for it produce violent sickness and stupe- 
faction on any novice, \^q may he persuaded to 
learn this accomplishmeni 



CAMPAIOMS AND CRUISflft. 1S7 



CHAPTER IX. 

^ab ixtubks to achagua& — passage dowv the obivooo 

jhjbdfg the floods. — bolivae*s deagoox guaed. fbo- 

,inikb of baeceloxa. — ^wild eeuit. — todonous nut. 

flkbad made of cazava eoot. — monagas defeats the 

oaniaeos at cantauea. boutae estuens to ¥aek- 

vae. — ^defutation to 8amtandee feom new geenada. 
— moehxo advances on yaeinas. — ^boufae eeteeats 

acbo0 the oeinoco. — ^faez buens san feenando. 

jjkbeai of the esogeants. — moeillo ceosses the 

^abauco. haeassing campaign in the llanos. sup- 

flies cut off feom the spanish abmt.^^siginbis — 
•awzandee defeats la toeee. — ^moeiixo eeteeats to 
caeaccas. — wintee quaetee&. — ^ihe tellow fevee. 

After having visited every part of bis province, 
that was accessible at this time of the year, Paes 
retumed to Achaguas. An opportnnity now offered 
of reaching Angostura, by a trading launch, that 
was going down with hides and tallow. A few of 
us, therefore, who had been longest in the service, 
and were greatly in want of clothing, which was 
not to be had in the Llanos, obtained permission of 
Paez to go to Gnayana, for the purpose of procur- 
ing what we stood so much in need of. 

Onr passage down was very rapid, in conse- 
quence of the flooded state cf the river. But as 
long as we continued among the narrow streams, 
running into the Orinoco, the patron of the boat 
was in constant dread of river pirates ; and never 
omitted repeating the rosario with his peons, every 
evening at sunset. When we entered the broad 



138 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

Orinoco, however, he considered himself in safety ; 
and no longer continued that act of devotion. 

The i^pearance of the river was totally changed 
from what it had heen, when we ascended it in the 
dry season ; all the sand -hanks being now covered 
with water, and nothing but the trees to be seen on 
most of the islands. The quantity of large logs ^ 
timber, and brushwood, swept down by the current^ 
rendered the navigation dangerous for boats. The 
force of the stream in many places undermines the 
harrancosy or steep lofty banks ; and frequently} 
during the stillness of night, we heard the fall of 
immense masses of earth and trees, echoing along 
the stream like distant thunder, and threatening 
certain destruction to any vessel that might be 
near. 

As the boat approached the confluence of the 
great river Caiiri with the Orinoco, near the islet 
of Bernab^, the patron pointed out to us the spot 
where a portion of the forest of Aripao was in- 
gulphed by an earthquake, on the feast of San 
Mateo, 1790. A lauoon of half a league in cir- 
cumference, and from fifty to sixty fathoms 
deep, was produced, and remains there to this 
day. He described to us a singular custom of 
the Caribi Indians, in this river, during any very 
violent earthquake. They assemble and dance to 
their rude music ; rejoicing at an event which, they 
believe, bestows new vigour and fertility on the 
earth. 

We reached Angostura on the twelfth day after 
leaving the Araiico, and learned that a good many 
officers and soldiers, lately arrived from England, 



CAMPAI6N8 AND CRUISES 139 

bad been formed into a regiment, wbich was called 
Bolivar's dragoon guard, under tbe command of 
Colonel Rooke. This corps was destined to join 
€kneral Mondgas, in the province of Barcelona. 
After having obtained clothing and proper sadlery, 
we received orders from Souhlette, who was adju- 
tant-general, to join it, a short time previous to its 
departure. The regiment was embarked on board 
Ae brig, La Bombarda ; and after a tedious pas- 
siige, landed at the mouth of the river Pao. We 
were here supplied with horses, and marched 
through a disagreeable swampy country, having 
twice to ford the dangerous Rio Claro, to the town 
of Concepcion del Pao, where Monagas had his 
head quarters. Here we were brigaded with the 
Lanz^ros de Vitoria, and the Carabin^ros del Ori- 
elite, to all which I was ordered to do duty, as Ayu- 
dante de Brig^a. 

In the province of Barcelona are the Llanos Al- 
tos, or upper plains, which are totally di£Ferent in 
appearance and soil from the low savannas of Va- 
rfnas. The face of the country is much more ir- 
regular, and it is never inundated ; there is conse- 
quently less grass, and scarcely any wild cattle. 
Fruits of various kinds grow in these plains ; as the 
(fuaydvay the mencurt^ and the manirM. The gua^ 
ndvana, a very refreshing fruit, is found in abund- 
ance. It is as large as a middling-sized melon ; and 
resembles, in taste, the West Indian sour-sap. The 
tree that produces it grows in clumps, in various 
parts cf the plains, which afford at once shelter and 
refreshment to an army on the march. Thepine- 
i^ple is also frequently found growing wild, under 
the shade of the same tree. 



140 CAMPAIONS AND CRUISE8. 

Another sort of large spreading tree grows also 
here, as well as in Varinas, called coco de monOf or 
monkey's not, from the fondness these animals show 
for the kernels. They are, nevertheless, poisonoosi 
and highly dangerous to unwary travellers, who are 
induced to eat them from a mistaken notion preva- 
lent; viz. that whatever a monkey or a. bird will 
eat of, must be wholesome for man. The fruit 
consists of a hard husk, containing four kemelsy 
which, in shape and taste, greatly resemble an al- 
mond. A party of cavalry, which I commanded* 
being out reconnoitring, in advance of the army, 
halted, during the heat of the day, under a tree of 
this sort, fatigued and hungry after a long march. 
Although we had some criole soldiers with us, they 
were not natives of this part of the country, and 
were totally unacquainted with the deleterioos 
qualities of the fruit. Finding the taste agreeable, 
we proceeded to satisfy our appetite without any 
hesitation; eating the kernels, both raw, and roasted 
in the embers. We soon, however, experienced 
their poisonous e£Pects, being attacked by a violent 
sickness, which seriously endangered our lives ; for 
we could obtain no remedy, the army being unpro- 
vided with a medicine-chest, nor had we any thing 
to drink, except muddy lagoon water. A Grerman 
sergeant, and one or two others who had eaten 
more than the rest, died that evening ; and those 
who survived lost their hair, and continued to be 
annoyed, for many weeks, by the nausea occasioned 
by the essential oil of the nut ; every eatable appear- 
ing to us to be infected with its disagreeable flavour. 

The yuca, or caxava root, is much cultivated in 



CilMPAIONS AND CR01SB8. 141 

this proyince. The sweet species is an excellent 
vegetable, either boiled or roasted : bnt, even in 
this state, it is very apt to swell suddenly in the 
stomach, and even to cause death, when it is eaten 
to excess, or before sufficiently cooked. This was, 
unfortunately, too often the case with our troops 
after a long march. The other species of yuca is 
unfit for food, on account of the bitter poisonous 
juice it contidns, except when made into the cazliva 
bread. The juice is, nevertheless, given to hogs 
to drink ; and is found to fatten them, without do- 
ing them any fiuiiher injury than causing a slight 
mtoxication, which soon passes o£P. 

The manner of preparing the caz^va bread is, by 
rasping the root on large tin or wooden graters, 
fixed on benches, behind which the women em- 
ployed in making it stand in rows. A sufficient 
quantity having been rasped, and not too much to 
be used at one time, (as the surplus would fer- 
ment and spoil,) they put it into long circular 
baskets of plaited rushes, about ten feet long, 
and nine inches in diameter, called manguhas. 
They then hang up the strainers, with heavy 
weights fastened to the lower end ; these drawing 
the phuted work tight together, diminish its capa- 
city, and squeeze out the juice, which is collected 
in large troughs hollowed for the purpose. When 
no more juice is found to ooze out, the manguires 
are taken down, and emptied of their contents on 
raw hides, laid in the sun, where the coarse flour 
soon becomes dry, after being spread out. It is 
^en brought to the ovens, which aie simply ]arge 
smooth plates, made of baked clay, two feet in di- 



- 142 CAMPAIGNS ANB CBtTlSES. 

ameter, and supported by stones, with room noi 
neath for a slow fire. This is the most diffi< 
part of the process. The coarse flour is laid, ] 
fectly dry, on the hot plates, where the won 
with a dexterity only to be acquired by pract 

f' spread it into a round and very thin layer, nei 

the size of the plate it is laid on. This they 
merely with a piece of calabash, which they h 
in constant motion ; pressing gently every part 
the surface, until the heat has united the meal i 
a cake, without in the least altering its colour 
scorching it. Their method of turning a cake 
that size, resembles sleight of hand; for they e£ 
it with two pieces of split cane, without break 
': 'yt' it, a.]though scarcely as thick as a dollar, and oi 

as yet half cemented together ; and of a substa 
always brittle, especially when warmed. 1 
bread is very nourishing, and will melt to a jell^ 

J' a liquid ; but it is dangerous, if eaten in any qu 

tity when dry, as it swells, on being moistened, 
many times its original bulk. It will keep go 
for any length of time, if preserved in a dryph 

'•• The juice, expressed from the rasped root, depos 

on standing for some time, a fine white star 
which; when made into jelly, is not to be distingui 
ed from that made of the arrow-root. 

A division of the Spanish army under C 
Arana, was at this time detached by Morillo, tv 
orders to endeavour to force its way through 
proving of Barcelona, and to make itself mae 
of Angostura, where the Congress was assembl 
Mon^gas, however, received intelligence of tl 
advance, and took up a strong position near C 



4 ■ 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 143 

tabJCAf where he was joined by Gen. Marino, from 
the neighbouring province of Cuman^. The patriot 
army was at first thrown into some confusion, by 
the furious attack and heavy fire of the Spanish 
troops ; but was soon rallied by Marino, who him- 
sdf headed a charge, which broke the line of the 
royalists, and compelled them to fly in confusion. 
They abandoned the military chest and baggage ; 
and lost their colours, with a considerable number 
of killed and wounded. 

This defeat completely disheartened the royalist 
forces in Barcdiona. They ceased to hazard pitch- 
ed battles with the patriots, and confined them- 
selves to occasional skirmishing. In this desultory 
war&re, however, our brigade of cavalry, which 
furnished out-posts for the advance of the army 
between Cantaiira and Rio del Tigre, suffered con- 
siderably. We were harrassed, day and night, 
with little intermission, until the end of the rainv 
season ; the whole of which we passed in bivouacs, 
without once sleeping under a roof. 

Bolivar, who was now chosen President of the 
republic of Venezuela, left Angostura, once more, for 
die Uanos of Varfnas, with reinforcements for the 
army there. He previously sent orders for his 
dragoon guards to leave Mon^gas's division, and 
return to the mouth of the river Pao, where 
launches were in readiness to receive us. The 
irmy again ascended the Orinoco, and landed at 
the mouth of the river Araiico ; from wheni 
proceeded, by Cunavichi and Cana Fistol% i 
jar^, and joined Paez at his head quartcfs 
Juan de PalUra. 



144 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Gen. Frandso de Paula Santand^r had succeeded 
in organizing a large corps of caralry, in the i^ainfl 
of Gazanares : and had opened a commonicadotf 
with parties of insurgents, who had appeared in arms 
in Tunja, the first province in New Grenada to be 
passed through, after crossing the Cordillera of llie 
Andes, by which it is separated from Venezudab 
Bolivar, on his arrival in the Llanos, delayed not a 
moment to establish a correspondence with San- 
tand^r, by the rivers Orinoco, Meta, and Api&ri ; 
and by his means was enabled to hold communica- 
tion with his old friends and adherents, in the pro- 
vinces of Zocorro, Tunja, and Pamplona. From 
these parts, deputations were sent secretly to San- 
tand^r, earnestly inviting Bolivar to enter New 
Grenada, where they gave him every assurance of 
receiving assistance, with men and money. 

The insurrection now assumed such a formidable 
appearance, that Morillo saw the necessity of 
making a desperate effort to crush the army, which 
Bolivar had collected in the plains of the Apturi ; 
and to cut off, if possible, his communication with 
Santand^r. He therefore united the three divi- 
sions, commanded by the Spanish generals, La 
Torre, Calzada, and Moralez, and advanced against 
San Fernando del Apuri. This had been pre- 
viously fortified anew by Paez ; and has already 
been mentioned, as the only strong post in the 
Llanos ; being, in fact, the key of the low country, 
and of the Orinoco. 

Bolivar foresaw the impending storm, and deci- 
ded on returning across the Orinoco with his in- 
fantry and artillery, which, in the savannas, would 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 14>5 

baYe been rather an impediment, than an eflPectire 
force. The place where he took up his quarters was 
a Missionary establishment, by name Los Capachi- 
nos, about half-way between Gaydira and the 
n^ids. He left Paez, with aU the cavalry of the 
united army, in charge of the Llanos ; earnestly 
entreating him not to hazard a serions engagement 
with Morillo, but merely to harass him, as much 
as possible, by continual skirmishing, and cutting 
off his supplies. Bolivar, at the same time, took 
this opportunity to go down the river to Angos- 
tora, where his presence was required by the 
Congress. 

Paez's force consisted of Bolivar's dragoons, his 
own Guardia de Honor, Colonel RangeUs lancers, 
and a few of the light cavalry formerly belonging 
to Zedeoo's division, under the zambo Col. In- 
fante ; (who, by the way, was afterwards shot in 
Bogota, forJJifi^^ijS^der^ officer, his 

rival in an amour). With this small force he could, 
of course, make no stand against the royalist army, 
which consisted of eight battalions of infantry, five 
regiments of cavalry, and a park of flying artillery. 
Inmiediately, therefore, on Morillo's appearing 
before San Fernando, Paez evacuated it. and re- 
treated to San Juan de Pallara ; having burned 
the former city, after giving one hour's warning to 
the inhabitants, to enable them to remove them- 
selves, and their property, to a place of safety. 

San Juan de Pallara now presented a scene of 
the greatest confusion. A number of petty mer- 
chants and suttlers had established themselves in 
temporary shops in the village, where they con- 

H 



146 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

sidered themselves perfectly secure, under the pro- 
tection of the army. The retreat, therefore, of 
Paez*s troops, and the rapid advance of the enemy, 
was as alarming as it was miexpected by them. 
Every horse and mule was pressed, by order of 
Paez, to convey the baggage and powder, and the 
hospital, to the pass of the Araiico, opposite Csn- 
jaral. There he determined to make a short stand, 
while the inhabitants of the different towns and 
villages, that had emigrated through fear of the 
Spaniards, as well as the sick and wounded, should 
be conveyed to a place of safety near the lagoon of 
Cunavichi, on the banks of the Orinoco. The 
town, and road to the Araiico, were crowded with 
old men, women, and children, flying from their 
homes into the woods, very few of whom had time 
to save a single article of their property. The 
shop -keepers were running about in despair; offer- 
ing any sum of money for horses or mules to save 
their goods. They met with very little sympathy 
or assistance from the soldiers, who were incensed 
against them, on account of the shamefully exor- 
bitant prices whicli they had uniformly demanded 
for every article ; and the insolence with which 
they had been in the habit of treating all belong- 
ing to the army, without reflecting that they de- 
pended on it for protection. At last, heavy firing 
in the neighbourhood of the town announced the 
advance of Morillo ; when all the shops were of 
course obliged to be precipitately abandoned ; and 
the troops, who composed the rear-guard, were 
directed to destroy whatever they could not carry 
off with them. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 147 

As soon as Paez had ascertained tbat tbe emi- 
grants and wounded had crossed the Aratico, he 
retreated to the pass, which the cavalry swam, with 
very little molestation from the Spaniards, who 
were at all times rather shy of measuring lances 
with the Llan6ros. Works had been thrown up, 
in front of GaujarAl, (partly composed of casks of 
sugar, salt, &c. that had been abandoned by the 
merchants,) on which a few guns were mounted; 
and, as Morillo had no canoes, this prevented him 
from making any attempt to cross the Araiico 
here. Nevertheless, after some days spent in 
manoeuvring, he succeeded in passing the river at 
the Hato del Merictiri, about a day's march higher 
op. Paez immediately withdrew the main body 
of his army into the centre of the plains ; leaving 
only a few detached parties to watch Morillo's 
motions. 

The Spanish general continued advancing in 
search of Bolivar, whom he believed to be still in 
the savannas, for he had no means of obtaining any 
intelligence whatever, respecting the movements of 
the patriot army ; it being next to impossible for a 
spy to remain undiscovered, in a country where 
every individual was known. Paez's determination 
was, to entice the Spanish forces as far as he could 
into the centre of the Llanos, and there to wear 
them out with fatigue, and harass them by repeated 
alarms and false attacks. This he was enabled to 
perform admirably well ; for his own army, being 
totally unincumbered by baggage of any descrip- 
tion, was always ready to advance, or retreat, at a 
moment's warning ; while the royalist forces could 

H 2 



148 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

with difficulty proceed ; the long grass and marshes, 
Mrith occasionally creeks to cross, where no canoes 
were to be obtained, presenting serious impedi- 
ments to the infantry, artillery, and baggage. 

The cavalry, that Morillo had brought with him, 
were so far from being able to force Paez to an 
action, that they actually did not dare to leave their 
bivouac, even to cut grass, when that around them 
was trampled and rendered unfit for forage, with- 
out being protected by a battalion of infiEuatry. 
Their horses, also, having been used to be fed on 
maiz and cane tops, became weaker every day, 
when compelled to subsist on the coarse grass in 
the plains. Paez never considered it necessary to 
move from his bivouac, until the Spanish army was 
close at hand ; when an hour or two of galloping 
would give his men time to unsaddle, and feed their 
horses. Meanwhile, the enemy's troops slowly 
pursued him, harassed in their march by detached 
parties of cavalry, that were constantly hoveling 
round them, and taking every opportunity of cat- 
ting o£P stragglers, and otherwise annoying them. 

When the royalists halted for the night, Paes 
would also halt ; and order a line of fires to be 
kindled in front of his camp. A little after mid- 
night, he frequently made his troops mount in 
perfect silence, leaving a detachment to keep up 
the fires, and pass the usual cry of ^' CeniMtOf 
alerta f" at intervals, as if the whole army was 
still encamped there. Paez then would take a cir- 
cuit round the enemy's bivouac, which was easily 
done unobserved, on account of the height of the 
grass, and Morillo not venturing to station any 



CAMPAieNS AND CRUISBS. 149 

ont-line pilots hr from the main body. Before 
day-breaky Paez would Mi suddenly upon their 
rear-g^nard and baggage, doing a great deal of mis- 
chief, and causing much confusion, befbre any forces 
could be brought against him. He would then 
instantly disappear ; having ordered his troops to 
separate in every direction, and to meet him at 
some distant rendezvous, which Morillo could not, 
periu^w, discover, for many days. 

The Spanish army soon became sickly ; as aU the 
troc^ composing it were either European Spa- 
niards, or natives of the hilly country, who had 
never been accustomed to sleep in the open air, 
among swamps. They were also totally unused to 
live on beef alone, without either bread or salt ; 
and, as for the supplies of these, and other neces- 
saries for the army, that were occasionaUy sent from 
San Fernando, where a few huts had been built 
for the commissariat, they were invariably inter- 
cepted by the activity and vigilance of Paez's de- 
tachments. It would, indeed, have required an 
eaooit, little inferior in strength to the whole royal- 
ist army, to have conducted any supplies in safety 
through the plains. Even the beef began, at last, 
tofidl them; for Paez had previously ordered all the 
cattle that could be collected to be driven, as far as . 
possible, into the interior of the Llanos. The 
Spanish cavalry could not venture to leave the 
main body ; nor did they understand the method 
of hwiting wild cattle, even if they had been suf- 
ficiently acquainted with the country to go in 
search of them. StiU less was their infantry able 
to forage. They were, therefore, reduced to the 



150 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

necessity of killing their horses and mules for food; 
and occasionally shot chiffuiriSf which are found in 
droves in the marshes. 

These animals are a kind of amphibions river- 
hog, (some say a small species of tapir,) with coarse 
black bristles, having very short ears, and no tail; 
but in other respects it resembles the pecari^ or 
wild hog of the woods. They graze in herds on the 
borders of lagoons, and small streams^ to which 
they retreat on any alarm ; and are capable of re- 
maining as long under water as a seal, or a cayman. 
Their flesh is tender and fat; but, except in a 
young chiguiriy it has a strong fishy taste^ which 
renders it a very disagreeable food. 

Morillo was at length reluctantly compelled to 
retire across the Araiico, after losing a considep- 
able number of his best troops by sickness, as well 
as by constant skirmishes; in which the patriot 
army suflered comparatively little. His retreat 
was closely followed by Paez, who succeeded in 
taking a great part of his baggage, and compelling 
him to destroy most of his powder, for want of 
beasts to carry it; many having died through fatigue, 
and many more having been killed for food by his 
army. The royalists then took up their quarters 
in Achag^as ; where they continued some months. 
This is a strong position; and was selected by 
Morillo, with a view of preventing Bolivar's ad- 
vance in the direction of New Grenada. 

Bolivar, immediately on the retreat of the Spa- 
nish army, recrossed the Orinoco with his troops; 
and, at the same time, Santander attacked and de- 
feated a royalist division, near Cazanares, under 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 151 

Gen. La Torre, who sustained a loss of fifteen 
hundred men, and all his baggage ; while Paez 
kept M orillo, Calzada, and Moralez, in check with 
his cavalry. 

Morillo, finding that these manceuvres had again 
opened the communication between Bolivar and 
Santander, was compelled to abandon his present 
position ; which the scarcity of provisions, and the 
near approach of the rainy season, rendered it no 
longer advisable for him to hold* He, therefore, 
fell back on the province of Caracas, under the per- 
fect persuasion, that it was utterly impossible for 
any invading army to cross the Cordillera in the 
winter. At that season of the year, the torrents 
that were to be forded, and the almost precipitous 
passes in the Andes, in which a handful of deter- 
mined men might with ease oppose the advance of 
thousands, presented obstacles of the most formi- 
dable and appalling description. 

The foreign brigade, consisting of Bolivar's dra- 
goon-guard, commanded by Col. Rooke; 1st. and 
2d. rifles, Cols. Pigott and Mcintosh ; and artillery, 
CoL Ferrier, was marched into winter quarters 
at MantecaL My duty, as brigade-major, had no 
sooner become a little easier by this arrangement, 
than I was ordered down to Angostura, by Bolivar, 
with despatches for the Vice President, Don F. 
Zea. While I was detained here for an answer, 
some troops arrived from England, and landed in 
all the pomp of new uniforms and a complete re- 
g^ental band. Unfortunately, they brought with 
them the seeds of the yellow fever, by which they 
had already lost some men at Guayana la Vieja and 



152 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Barrancas. No place in the world could be more 
admirably calculated to fc|Ster and mature that fatal 
disease, than the sultry city of Angostura^ with its 
stagnant, half putrid lagoon ; its matanzas ; and its 
thousands of raw- hides drying on the parement in 
front of the stores, in preparation for shipment. 
The fever spread like a pestilence, and the unfortu- 
nate new comers were swept away daily by se<^tions; 
for the burial ground was beyond the fort, on the 
hill, and every funeral became the primary cause 
of sickness in the attendants, who were suddenly 
affected by it, either at the Campo Santo, or on 
their return from following their countrymen to 
the grave. 

The day previous to that appointed for my re- 
turn, I was obliged to take the conmiand of the 
firing party at the funeral of Gapt. Brown, 2d. 
Hussars ; on account of a difficulty in finding an 
officer of his corps for that duty. When we reach- 
ed the cemetery, we found that the Indians had 
opened many of the foreigner's graves, in search of 
the clothing in which they had been buried ; and 
the scene was shocking beyond description. I felt 
convinced, at the moment, that I could no longer 
escape the fever ; and my apprehensions were re- 
alized the next morning. During the progress of 
my sickness and convalescence, three orderly dra- 
goons, who attended me, took the infection suc- 
cessively, and died. When I recovered, I found 
that, among the many other victims to this rapid 
fever, GoL Trewren and Major Mahony, both of 
whom were preparing to embark for the West 
Indies, and had called to bid me farewell, under 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 153 

the impression that I could not live, had died and 
been bnried. 

As soon as I could obtain the army-surgeon's 
sanction for my removal, I embarked in a flechtoi, 
and returned up the Orinoco to the army, which, I 
found, was already in motion for a winter cam- 
paign. Before leaving the savannas, Bolivar con- 
ferred on all the British officers and privates of his 
dragocm-guard, who had remained in the Llanos 
with Paez, during Morillo's late incursions, the 
ribbon and cross of the order of Libertadares de 
Venezuela, 



CHAPTER X. 



BOLIVAR ADVANCES TO GUADUALITO. — SANDY PLAINS NEAR 

MERICURI. — ^THE MIRAGE. DISTRESS OF THE TROOPS 

FOR WANT OF WATER. — ARMADILLOS. MARCH TO CAZ- 

ANARES.— -CARIBI FISH. RAFTS MADE OF HIDE. — BOLI- 
VAR ENTERS THE HILLY COUNTRY. FOOD OF THE 

MOUNTAINEERS. — ARACACHA ROOT. — FORESTS IN THE 

CORDILLERA. SWINGING BRIDGES. PARAMOS OF THE 

ANDES. NIGHT PASSED ON THE SUMMIT. SUFFERINGS 

OF THE TROOPS DURING THE PASSAGE. DESCENT FROM 

THB CORDILLERA. — ^VILLAGES IN NEW GRENADA. DE- 
FEAT OF THE SPANIARDS AT VARGAS. BOLIVAR ENTERS 

TUNJA. SPANISH ARMY ROUTED AT BOYACA.— GENERAL 

BARRETRA TAKEN PRISONER. 



The army had remained for some time station- 
ary at Mantecal, and it was generally believed, 
that these were to be the winter quarters of the 
patriot troops. However, no sooner had the rainy 
season thoroughly set in, than Bolivar broke up his 
camp here, and marched the army towards Guadu- 

h3 



154 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

alito, a small town on the borders of the upper 
plains of Varinas, where the rivers Apiiri and 
Araiico approach near to each other. 

Some parts of the upper Llanos, bordering the 
latter river, are by no means so fertile as the lower 
country; and there are long tracts of barren ground, 
such as that near the pass of Merictiri, where there 
is no food whatever for the sustenance of cattle. 
Where the sandy soil was covered with a smaU 
thorny sensitive plant, marching was excessively 
distressing to the infantry ; particularly as shoes 
were scarce articles in the patriot army. The want 
of water, also, in summer, in these vast barren ex- 
panses, ^equently obliges the cavalry to abandon 
their horses, and to carry their saddles, until they 
can provide themselves with a remount. 

That tantalising optical illusion, the mirage^ is 
frequently witnessed in these arid wastes. Al- 
though so well known, it still continues to flatter 
the traveller, and almost to persuade him, against 
his better judgment, that he sees distinctly, at about 
the distance of a mile, a clear pond of water, just 
rippled by a gentle breeze. The tapering shadows 
of the palm trees, which abound in the dry parts of 
the plains, are reflected by the vapour ; and tend to 
perfect the deceptive resemblance, by their undu- 
lating motion. 

The horses and bullocks, meanwhile, are not to 
be so easily deceived by this appearance ; for they 
well know, by some indi^^^^^"^ imperceptible to 
man, for a considerable tinc*® previously, when they 
are approaching water. They immediately snuff 
up the air in the direction l^&d^ng to it ; and ex- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 155 

change thrar weary despairiiig gait, for eagerness 
and actiritjr. The spur is no longer needed ; nor 
is it possible to restrain the horses, or to guide 
them any other way than diat, by which their 
instinct fordbly leads them. 

An army, on approaching water, after having 
soffered modi from thirst, exhibits the picture of 
a complete defeat. It is extremely difficult, upon 
»nch occasions, to preserve any subordination ; for . 
ew&rj individual leaves the raidcs, and rushes for- ! 
ward, with that wild look, which peculiarly charac- 
terizes excessive thirst. It would indeed, in most 
instances, be certain destruction to an army, to find 
an enemy in possession of the water, which they 
themselves were approaching under these circum- 
stances. Such as have never felt the sensation of 
extreme thirst, cannot possibly form an idea of the 
welcome refreshment the first long draught of water 
affords; although the tepid fluid in these pools, 
would disgust any person who was not really and 
palDfolly thirsty. It is, in general, of a greenish 
colour, swarming with insects, and frequently con- 
taining the bodies of horses, and other animals, 
that have just had strength snffident to reach the 
water, and die. Add to this, that the bullocks and 
mules, which are 6mea with the army, rush at 
once into the pond; and, when their thirst is 
quenched, lie down and roll in it ; and some idea 
may be formed of the polluted draught, that awaits 
those who arrive latest. 

The caehwdmOy or small armadillo, burrows in 
the driest parts of the Uanos ; and is much sought 
after by the inhabitants, who are particularly fond 



156 CAMPAIGNS AND CBUISES. 

of the flesh, which can hardly be distingaished from 
that of a sacking pig. There are, also, herds of 
nuUacdmiSf or red deer, which are easily shot or 
caught alive with the lazo ; for they are not very 
timid, and stand still, gazing at the honter, until 
he approaches within pistol shot. The flesh is very 
dry and insipid, in comparison ta the juicy wild 
beef ; and the animal is scarcely ever an object of 
pursuit, in a country so well stocked with cattle. 
This will, probably, sufficiently account for the 
little alarm it evinces at the sight of man. The 
small spotted antelope, on the contrary, which is 
also very numerous, and is hunted for its skin, as 
well as for its delicately flavoured flesh, is so ex- 
cessively timid, that, when pursued, it often appears 
to lose all power of exertion. It frequently fiiUs, 
without receiving any perceptible injury; and is 
knocked down, with ease, by the long twisted 
reins used by the Llaneros, 

A species of small owl, called by the crioles, 
aguaita-caminoy burrows, and makes its nest, in the 
loose sandy soil. It takes its name from appear- 
ing to watch the roady as it sits, with the most 
ludicrous solemnity, in groups of two or three, on 
the heap of earth it has thrown up ; straining its 
large grey eyes to distinguish the passengers, whom 
it hears, but cannot see by day ; and ducking its 
head, as if bowing, as awkwardly as a puppet on 
wires. 

Bolivar shortly afterwards left Guadualito, cros- 
sed the Aralico, opposite to a large straggling vil- 
lage of the same name, and proceeded through the 
plains towards Cazanares. It is impossible to g^ve 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 157 

an adequate idea of the hardships that the troops 
snffered during this jonmey, at a time of the year, 
when it is always considered that the plains cannot 
be crossed, even by cavalry. The infontry was obli- 
ged to inarch daily, for many hours together, np to 
the middle in water, without arriving at a rest- 
ing place; and was harassed, besides, by occa- 
sionaUy fiilling into concealed holes, and sticking 
faat in the marshy soil. It was even considered a 
subject of exultation by them, to discover a dry 
spot of ground, to rest on at night, after the 
fatigues of the day. 

Many of the men were severely bit, in their L^ 
legs and thighs, by a small fish caDed the carrUn, 
These are never more than three or four inches in 
length, and are shaped like a gold-fish ; which they 
also resemble in the brilliant orange hue of their 
scales. Although they are so small, their exceed- 
ing voraciousness, and the incalculable numbers in 
which they swarm, render them very dangerous. 
They are, indeed, to the fall as much dreaded, if 
not more so, by a Llan^ro, than the cabman. 
Their mouth is very large, in proportion to their 
sise; and opens much in the same manner as a 
bullet mould. It is furnished with broad and sharp 
teeth, like those of a shark in miniature ; so that, 
wherever they bite, they take away the piece of 
flesh. When once either man or beast is attacked 
by them, they will strip the limb of flesh, in a sur- \ 
prisingly short time ; for the taste of the blood, i 
spreading in the water, collects them by myriads. 

Where small creeks or branches of rivers, which ' 
were not fordable, crossed the road the army was 



158 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

taking, it was necessary to make rafts of the light 
drift-wood, that is found in most parts of the 
Llanos, — or, where it was not to be procured, of 
bullock's hides, — to pass the in&ntry, powder, and 
baggage. This last kind of raft is, probably, pecu- 
liar to the plains of Varinas. It is constructed of a 
raw hide, with the angles cut off, and holes bored 
round the edge, so as to admit of its being drawn 
together like a purse, with a running thong. It is 
stuffed out, with crooked billets of wood, saddle- 
trees, or any thing light and bulky ; so as, when 
drawn tight, to contain air enough to support seve- 
ral persons clinging to it, while drawn across a 
stream, and back again, by means of long lazos. 
When baggage, or cases of powder, are to be pas- 
sed on these rafts, it is necessary to unite two or 
three together ; and good swimmers always ac- 
company them, for the purpose of keeping them 
steady. 

The appearance of the country begins to alter 
very much, on approaching the mountains; the 
sight of which is really as welcome to a traveller's 
eye, after a long residence in these apparently endless 
plains, as the first appearance of the " high blue 
western land" is to the sailor, after a long voyage. 
The ground becomes gradually more and more 
uneven; and is watered by rapid rivulets, instead of 
the stagnant pools, and sluggish muddy rivers of 
the low country. Plantations are more frequently 
seen ; and the houses, though smaller, are built with 
more attention to comfort and warmth, than those 
which the Llaneros inhabit. Poultry and pigs, 
also, make their appearance, in proportion as the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIS£S. 159 

larger cattle become scarce ; and ar^pas can be 
more frequently procured. The cold, too, begins 
to be felt seTerely ; especially just before day- 
break, when the wind blows over the snowy ridges 
of the Cordillera. 

In the neighbourhood of the town and river of 
Cazanares, the quehrddasy or mountain torrents, 
began to give frequent and serious interruption to 
the march. It was found necessary for the cavalry 
to carry over the arms and accoutrements of the 
infantry ; and these last were obliged to form two 
lines, and hold fiist by each others hands; the 
force of the streams being so great, as frequently 
to throw the men down, and, in some instances, 
to sweep them away. Bolivar passed repeatedly 
across, at several of these torrents, carrying sol- 
diers who were weak, and women who were fol- 
lowing their husbands, behind him, en croupe. He 
was, indeed, invariably humane in his attentions to 
the sick and wounded on a march ; and, quite as 
much so, to the female emigrants and others, whose 
snfiPerings and privations, whether following an 
army from necessity, or choice, were truly pitiable. 

As the roads continued to ascend, and become 
stony, all the horses, that were natives of the 
plains, began to flag and get lame ; for they were 
totally unused to a hard soil, and had never ascen- 
ded nor descended steeper places than the baakft 
of the rivers, where they were aocostomed tr 
drink. This was actually the cause of llw ' 
tion of an entire corps of LLsnfo 
CarbajU, whom Paez had detsdi 
Bolivar into New Grenada ; b 



160 CAMPAIGNS AKD CRUISES. 

m Achaguas with the rest of his army, except CoL 
RangeFs lancers. These were chiefly natives of 
the hilly province of Merida; and were fifteen 
hundred strong, about four years previously, when 
they first followed Rangel into the pl^ns; but 
now barely mustered four hundred, on their return 
over the Andes ; the rest having all been killed in 
action. Carbaj^rs men, wLo bore with cheerful- 
ness their own fatigues, could not look with indif- 
ference on the hardships and loss of their horses ; 
and left the army in bodies at every halt, untU none 
but a few officers remained. RangeFs mountain- 
eers, on the contrary, breathed with greater free- 
dom as they ascended the Cordillera, and felt no 
repugnance to being mounted on mules, or even to 
walking on foot ; a degradation to which no true 
Llan^ro could think of submitting. 

In the lower parts of the hilly country, there is 
little cultivation to be met with ; but on ascending 
higher, by a series of alternate steep acclivities and 
short descents, some beautiful vallies and glens are 
seen, where the inhabitants rear crops of potatoes ; 
small, indeed, in size, and poor in quality, as the 
ground is rarely and scantily manured, but, such 
as they are, forming a principal part of the moun- 
taineer's nourishment, being boiled with their 
coarse mazamurra. They have also the anxcdcha 
root, which is peculiar to the hilly country of S. 
America. It is a pleasant and nutritious food ; in 
taste, and shape, something resembling the Jerusa- 
lem artichoke. It appears to be an exceedingly 
productive and hardy root, thriving in bleak expo- 
sed situations, and in poor stony ground. Tlie 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 161 

natives frequently use it, together with maiz, for 
making one kind of that celebrated Indian beverage, 
called ddchoy which is pleasant and strengthening, 
and is commonly drunk by the mountaineers. 
The roots are irregularly shaped ; and adhere in 
dusters to the original plant. 

The Cerr&nos, as the natives of the Cordillera 
are called, are short in stature, and have a meagre 
unhealthy appearance, that strikes the traveller 
forcibly, by the great contrast there is between 
them, and the tall, stout, beef-fed Llan^ros. They 
look half-starved, and as if they were exotics, not 
yet hardened to the climate they inhabit. Their 
clothing, too, is by far too scanty ; for they have 
no kind of manufacture, as yet, established among 
them ; nor have they, apparently, the means of pro- 
curing common necessaries, either by purchase or 
barter. 

The snowy peaks of the Andes were now fre- 
quently seen, from openings among the lower 
mountains leading to them ; and apparently oppo- 
sed an inaccessible barrier to the entrance into 
New Grenada. The more, indeed, a stranger 
gazes on them, the less he can conceive the practi- 
cability of passing them. The narrow paths lead* 
ing to the Paramos^ wind among wild mountains, 
which are totally uninhabited, and covered with 
immense forests, overhanging the road, and almost 
excluding the light of day. The trees are of a 
vast size ; being constantly watered by the clouds 
they arrest in their passage, which perpetually hang 
on them, causing an incessant drizzling rain. This 
had rendered the paths so slippery, when our army 



162 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES* 

passed, that they became excessively . dangerous ; 
especially to the few tired mules and bullocks^ that 
yet survived the fatigues of the march, and a total 
privation of sustenance ; for nothing whatever 
grows under these forest trees, but ivy, moss, and 
lichens. In many parts, the torrents that rage 
from rock to rock, almost perpendicularly beneath 
the narrow pathway, were so far below, that their 
roar was scarcely heard ; and, as the wearied 
animals fell one by one, they could be traced in 
their descent by the crushing of the shrubs, grow- 
ing in the clefts of the fearful precipice, until they 
were seen to roll down the foaming stream. 

We frequently passed small wooden bridges, 
thrown across the face of waterfalls, that have 
worn themselves a passage to join the torrents 
below. These are always so moss-grown, and 
generally so frail and decayed, that they would 
be considered scarcely safe enough for the passage 
of a village brook. There is another kind of 
bridge, which is in use over those ravines, where 
the banks are too far apart to allow of an arch 
being thrown across. This is called a tarabiia; 
and consists of several lazos twisted together, so 
as to form a stout hide rope ; which is well greased, 
and secured, by both ends, to trees on^he opposite 
banks. On this is suspended a sort of cradle, ojr 
hammock, made either of basket work or hide, 
capable of holding two persons, which is drawn 
back and forwards, by long lines fastened to it for 
that purpose. Horses and mules are also con- 
veyed across in safety, being suspended by broad 
girths secured round the body, in the same way 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 163 

tbat cavalry horses are slung, when about to be 
embarked in a transport. • These tarabUas are 
frequently forty or fifty fathoms across ; and 
the tremendous depth below renders it advisable, 
for those who have rather weak nerves, to close 
their eyes while crossing. This mode of convey- 
ance causes a sensation, similar, in all probability, 
to that experienced by an aeronaut. 

Although the army was drenched, night and day, 
by the incessant rain, we did not experience any 
very severe cold, while passing through the forest ; 
for the trees afforded great shelter. But, on 
emerging from the woods, and entering on the 
ParamoSy or bare unsheltered passes between the 
inaccessible peaks, the cold wind is most penetra- 
ting, and chills even those who are well clothed ; 
which was unfortunately far from being the case 
with Bolivar's army at that period. Those who 
had been possessed of shoes on leaving the Llanos, 
had long since worn them out ; and very many, 
even of the officers, had literally no trowsers, and 
were glad to cover themselves with pieces of blanket, 
or whatever they could procure. 

The appearance of the Andes, among these eleva- 
ted ranges, is magnificently wild. Although they 
seem, when viewed from the lower mountains, to 
be completely covered with snow, yet there is little 
of it in the ParamoSy except where it collects under 
the shelter of rocks ; for the incessant gusts of 
wind, that sweep through these bleak passes, pre- 
vent it from lodging in them. There are also, on 
the sides of some of the mighty peaks, precipices of 
•olid rocky on which no snow can rest ; but the 



164 CAMPAIGNS AND CROISES. 

general appearance of this range, when near, is dial 
of moantains incrusted with ice, cracked in many 
places, from whence cascades are constantly mshp 
ing. There is no longer any beaten track, for the 
gronnd is rocky and broken ; with not the least 
sign of vegetation, except dark coloured lichens; 
and, in some places, covered with patches of frozen 
snow. Nevertheless, it is not difficult to find the 
way ; for it is strewed with the bones of men and ani- 
mals, that have perished, in attempting to cross the 
Paramos in unfavoorable weather. Multitudes of 
small crosses are fixed in the rocks, by some pious 
hands, in memory of former travellers who have 
died here ; and along the path are strewed firag^ 
ments of sadlery, trunks, and various articles, that 
have been abandoned, and resemble the traces of a 
routed army. Huge pinnacles of granite overhang 
many parts of these passes, apparently tottering, 
and on the point of overwhelming the daring travel- 
ler ; while terrific chasms, that are appalling to the 
sight, yawn far beneath, as if to receive him. A 
sense of extreme loneliness, and remoteness from 
the world, seizes on his mind, and is heightened by 
the dead silence that prevails ; not a sound being 
heard, but the scream of the conddr, and the mo* 
notonous murmur of the distant water-falls. Clouds 
are constantly sailing past, so dense, as to hide 
completely from the view the lower hills and 
forests ; and they frequently obscure the path in 
places, where the consequences of losing the way, 
or even of making one false step, are fearful to 
think of. It is indeed often necessary to lie down, 
for the purpose of avoiding the violence of the 



CAlfPAlGNS AND CRUISKS. 165 

windy which is most impetuous here. The slty 
tbove is one nnintermpted deep blue, and appears 
actually nearer the spectator than when he saw it 
from the vallies ; but the rays of the sun, although 
his orb is perfectly cloudless, seem to possess no 
power of warming, and give a wan sickly light, 
like that of the full-moon. 

The fatigpae and cold, added to the weak state the 
men were in, for want of sufficient food for several 
days past, soon began to take e£Fect on them. It 
was almost impossible to prevent them from lying 
down, on account of the excessive drowsiness they 
uniformly complained of, which was in many in- 
stances the precursor of death. It was in vain for 
the officers to attempt getting them on by force, 
and there was no leisure for argument ; the urgency 
of the case convincing every one of the absolute 
necessity of attending to his personal safety, and 
passing those dangerous heights, while he yet had 
the power of exertion. Those who lay down, soon 
became quite livid in the face, and died in an in- 
sensible stupor, as if they had fallen in a fit of apo- 
plexy. The extreme rarification of the air, at this 
height, may possibly contribute to this fatal result. 
The lungs appear, at each inspiration, to be insuffi- 
ciently inflated; and an asthmatic sensation is 
induced, accompanied by palpitation of the heart. 

A night passed on this Paramoy the army not 
being capable of crossing it without a halt, was 
dreadful in the extreme, from the inclemency of the 
weather. It was impossible to procure fuel for a 
fire ; and, had there been any, the continued violent 
g^ts of wind would have prevented it from being 



166 CAMPAIGK8 AND CRUISES. 

kindled. Officers and men, therefore, sat down, 
huddled together indiscriminately in dose gronps, 
to keep each other warm. Many died daring this 
truly fearful night. Among the rest was a poor 
widow, with her whole family of children, with 
whom she was returning, under the protection c^ 
the army, to her home near Zipaquira; from whence 
she had emigrated into the Llanos with her hus- 
band, a patriot officer, at the time when Morillo 
recovered possession of Sta. F^ de Bogota 

During this night, the heavens appeared of a 
dark blue, inclining to black; the number of the 
stars was either really, or apparently, much increas- 
ed, and their twinkling evidently a great deal 
brighter. The moon was also much more promi- 
nent, and globular in appearance ; almost of a me- 
tallic lustre ; and the dark map, on its surfiace was 
far plainer to the naked eye than when seen from 
below. We saw several very brilliant shooting 
stars; but little di£Ference was observable, except in 
the greater apparent length of their course, and 
rapidity of their motion. 

The descent from the Andes, though both pre- 
cipitous and rugged, is by no means so much so, 
as the ascent from the Llanos. It is also far from 
being so long ; because the country between the two 
longitudinal branches of the Cordillera, extending 
throughout the whole of S. America, is much more 
elevated, than that on the outer sides of the same 
mountains. The climate inclines to cold, especially 
in parts exposed to the chilling blasts from the 
snow ; but, on reaching the sheltered vallies, the 
temperature is delightful. The soil appears in 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 167 

general fraitful, and every spot capable of it, is 
cultivated ; as is always the case in a mountainous 
country, where the inhabitants never fiiil to com- 
pensate for the disadvantages of locality, under 
which they labour, by redoubled activity and in- 
dustry. Those, on the contrary, who live in more 
level districts, will often scarcely take the trouble of 
cultivating ground enough to provide themselves 
with subsistence. 

There is a singular looking breed of horses, 
found among these mountains, very diminutive in 
size ; not neatly formed like ponies, but rather 
resembling cart horses in miniature. They have 
large shaggy manes, very rough coats, and thick 
fetlocks covered with long hair. They are never 
shod, nor are their hoofs ever pared ; so that the 
homy part projects forward, in some instances, to 
nearly a foot in length. This gives the animal a 
most awkward appearance, and suggests the idea of 
people walking with snow shoes ; yet, notwith- 
standing this apparent incumbrance, they are very 
sure footed little animals, and considered equal to 
mules on bad rocky roads. 

While descending into the vallies, the troops 
halted at a small village, situated at the foot of a 
moderately high and steep hill, which is constantly 
crumbling away, without any obvious cause. This 
cannot be accounted for by the action of water, for 
no springs are found to rise from it. Be the cause 
what it may, the loose stones and gravel, that are 
continually rolling down its sides, had already de- 
stroyed the church, and several houses that were 
near it ; and it was apprehended by the inhabitants, 



168 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISEib 

that they would ultimately be obliged to desert the 
place, and rebuild their village somewhere in the 
neighbourhood. 

The patriot army reached the ralley of Zoga- 
mozo, before the royalist general had any intelli- 
gence of its having succeeded in crossing the 
Cordillera; his advanced guards having been all 
withdrawn from the villages among the hills, as it 
was supposed utterly impossible to effect the pass- 
age in the winter season. No sooner, however, 
had Barreyra, who commanded the Spanish army 
in New Grenada, learned that Bolivar had actoally 
entered that country, than he hastily collected his 
forces, and took possession of the heights above the 
Pantanos de Vargas, between the Cordillera and 
the city of Tunja. This was the capital of the 
province of the same name ; and it was a great 
object with Bolivar to enter it, as the principal in- 
habitants were well known to be favorable to the 
patriot cause, and had already sent assurances of 
their readiness to join him, on the first opportunity 
that should offer. 

Although Bolivar's forces were in a very weak 
state, from the recent severe fatigue and privations 
they had undergone, and were labouring under the 
accumulated disadvantages of the bad condition of 
their fire-arms, and a deficiency of ammunition, he 
did not hesitate for a moment to attack the royal- 
ists* in their position. They had at first some slight 
advantage, in consequence of their superiority in 
numbers ; but the fortune of the day was eventually 
turned in favor of the patriots, by a few hundred 
English, whom Bolivar had coUected from different 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 169 

corps, and formed into an infantry regiment, under 
the command of Col. Jas. Rooke, who was wounded 
early in the attack, and lost his arm. Major M' In tosh 
then led the soldiers up a very steep hill, under a 
heavy fire, which they did not return, until they had 
reached the heights ; from whence they drove tlie 
Spaniards in confusion, at the point of the bayonet. 

Bolivar entered Tunja, early the next morning-, 
having passed the royalist army in the dark, by a 
forced march through bye roads ; while Barreyra 
was retreating more leisurely, in the same direc- 
tion, by a different road. This was an important 
advantage gained by Bolivar ; for he had now ob- 
tained a strong position, in a country where all 
were friendly to him ; where there was abo plenty 
of provisions to refresh his exhausted soldiers, and 
an ample supply of clothing, of which they stood 
greatly in need. Recruits soon flocked in from all 
quarters; and BoHvar found himself, in a short 
time, at the head of an army, respectable in num- 
ber and appearance, and anxiously desiring to be 
led against the enemy. 

Barreyra, meanwhile, finding himself shut out 
from Tunja, retreated towards Venta Quemdda; 
and having received reinforcements from Sta. F^ de 
Bogota, and the neighbourhood, took up his posi- 
tion in front of the bridge of Boyacd. This place 
was remarkable, as being the spot where the last 
battle had been fought, and lost, by the ancient 
inhabitants of Cundinamarca, against the Spanish 
invaders. It was now destined to witness the last 
strpggle, and total defeat, of the Spaniards in New 
Grenada. Barreyra could hope for no assistance 



170 CAlfPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

from Morillo ; for, even if that general had been 
aware of the threatening aspect of affairs so near 
BogotAy the season of the year would have pze- 
vented him from sending troops across the Ai^hSi 
by such passes as those between Caracas and 
Tnnja. 

Bolivar again advanced, and attacked Barreyiai 
in the position he had chosen. The royalists, who 
were well aware that on the success of the day 
depended the fate of the capital, and,* indeed, ctf 
all New Grenada, defended themselves witli great 
courage and determination. They were defeated, 
however, after a short but severe struggle, and 
scattered in confusion; having unsuccessfully at- 
tempted to destroy the bridge by which they 
retreated. Never was there a more complete vio- 
tory. The whole of the Spanish army, with their 
baggage, powder, and military chest, fell into the 
liands of the conquerors. 

Barreyra, on finding his capture inevitable, threw 
away his sword, to avoid the mortification of 
being obliged to surrender it to BoHvar, whose 
military talents he had always affected to treat 
with the greatest contempt, in his proclamations. 
He was taken prisoner, with all his surviving 
officers, among whom was his second in conunand. 
Col. Ximenez, a Spaniard, well known to the 
patriots for his inveterate hatred, and cruelty to 
them. He was distinguished by the apellation of 
El Caricortadoy from a sabre wound he had fbr- 
roerly received in the face. His favourite mode 
of putting prisoners to death, was by having them 
tied back to back, and thrown into a river, YrhSHLe 



OAMPAIOKS AND CBUIftBS. 171 

ke 8t4>od by, delightiiig to witness their Btniggles 
for life* 

. All the soldiers of the royalist army, who had 
attempted to escape into the country round the 
scene of action, were brought in, tied by the pea- 
santry, who had armed themselves with the 
weapons thrown away by the fugitives in their 
panic* It was difficult, indeed, to protect the 
Spaniards from the resentment of the country 
people ; for they held them in detestation, on 
acoount of the system of cruelty and robbery that 
they had exercised towards them. 



CHAPTER XI. 

CRUELTY OP THE VICEROY ZAMANO. — MILITARY EXECU- 
TION OF LA POLA. ROYALIST BULLETINS. — FLIGHT OF 

ZAMANO TO CARTAGENA. — BOLIVAR ENTERS SANTA FE. 

INHABITANTS OF THE CAPITAL. — MARKET PLACE. 

COSTUME OF THE LADIES OF BOGOTA. DRESS OF THE 

FEMALE DEVOTEES. BOLIVAR'S QUINTA. DESCRIPTION 

OP THE CITY. saddler's SHOPS. ALAMEDA. THE 

CATHEDRAL. — VICEROY'S PALACE. CASA DE MONEDA. 

HOSPITAL OP SAN JUAN DE DIGS. — PROCESSIONS IN 

PASSION WEEK. — INDIAN MASQUERADE. — CATARACT OF 
TECUENDAMA. — DROVES OF MULES. — IMPLEMENTS OF 
AGRICULTURE. — TREADING OUT THE CORN. — HOSPITA. 
LITY OF THE PEASANTRY. COUNTRY CURAS. — IGNO- 
RANCE OF THE FRIARS. — UNION OF VENEZUELA WITH 
NEW GRENADA. 

Zamano, the cruel and bigoted Viceroy of New 
Grenada, who was hated and despised alike by 
royalists and patriots, was meanwhile in his palace 
at Santa F^ de BogotA. This man was both san- 
guinary and covetous to an extreme. He was 

I 2 



172 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

completely guided by the friars; and generally 
wore the habit of the Capuchins, as a devoto of that 
order. He adopted it also as a disgaise, when 
he was obliged to fly from the capital, at the 
approach of the patriot army. 

On the first intelligence being received of Boli- 
var*s advance, Zamano caused a gallows to be 
erected in- the Plaza, in front of the palace win- 
dows ; and banquiUos, or seats for those who were 
sentenced to be shot, were placed in the Alameda, 
in terrareniy as a warning to all such as laboured 
under a suspicion of being disaffected to the 
Spanish government. Spies were busily employed 
in every direction ; and their bare accusation, un- 
supported by any proofs, against an individual, was 
sufficient to induce Zamano to pass immediate sen- 
tence of death, and confiscation of property, on 
him. The greatest extortions and cruelties were 
practised by Zamano's satellites, under the threat 
of denouncing their victims. 

Among those who were put to death during this 
period of terror, the Colombians will long remem- 
ber the unfortunate Dona Apolinaria Zalabarriata, 
better known by the name of La Pola^ who was 
sentenced to death by Zamano, and shot, together 
with her betrothed husband. She was a young 
lady of good family in Bogota ; and was distin- 
guished by her beauty and accomplishments. En- 
thusiastically attached to the cause of liberty, she 
devoted herself to the hazardous task of obtaining, 
and transmitting to Bolivar, secret intelligence 
respecting the force, disposition, and plans of ope- 
ration, of the royalist army. The particulars of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 173 

this important iBformation, she contrived to collect 
from the Spanish officers themselves, at the tertulias, 
or evening conversaziones at her house, which were 
frequented by many of them, who listened with 
delight to her powers of conversation, and singing, 
accompanied by her guitar. From these officers, 
who could not possibly suspect so young, and 
apparently artless, a female, of any dangerous 
design, she used to enquire, as if merely in the 
course of conversation, about their respective regi- 
ments ; and, by asking after their absent compa- 
nions, she found means of learning where their 
advanced posts were stationed. She regularly 
transmitted all the information she. could collect 
to Bolivar, by means of a trusty messenger ; but, 
unfortunately, one of her packets was intercepted, 
and the messenger, under the terror of impending 
death, was compelled to betray her. She was im> 
mediately tried by a military court, (martial law 
having been proclaimed in the capital,) and was 
condemned to be shot, together with her lover ; 
although no proofs whatever could be produced of 
his having been privy to her undertaking. They 
were placed in capUla, for twelve hours, previous 
to being brought out for execution ; but even this 
short interval would not have been granted, had 
not Zamano considered it of the greatest import- 
ance to discover, if possible, who were her accom- 
plices. To e£Fect this, no means were left untried 
to induce her to betray them. She was on the 
one hand threatened by the friar, who was sent to 
confess her, with eternal punishment hereafter, if 
she should dare to conceal anything from him ; and 



174 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISl^. 

on the otber, attempted to be bribed, by offers of 
pardon and rewards, for berself and ber betrothed* 
if she wonld declare by whom she had been assisted. 
She, however, resolutely denied having any accom- 
plice, except the messenger whom she had employed. 
The lovers were both led ont the next day, and 
bonnd close to each other, on two hanquiUoSy snr- 
rounded by troops. When the picket of grenadiers 
appointed to shoot them was marched np close, and in 
readiness, she was once more offered pardon, on the 
former conditions. She again, without evinefalg 
any signs of fear, declared that, if she had any ac- 
complices, she wonld scorn to betray them for the 
purpose of saving her own life ; but that, as BoMrar 
was fast approaching, they would be known on his 
arrival. Having observed that her intended hus- 
band was hesitating, as if about to speak, through a 
very natural dread of the death he saw so near, she 
implored him, as her last request, if he had ever 
really loved her, to shew, by his death, that he was 
worthy of her choice ; assuring him that the tyrimt 
Zamano would never spare his life, whatever dis- 
closures he might make ; and reminding him, that 
he ought to derive consolation from the reflection, 
that his death wa^ shared by her he loved. Tlie 
friars then retired, and the firing party made ready. 
She then, for the first time, felt dread; and exclaim- 
ed, << Conquey verdugos^ tends vctior dt matar tma 
mwjtr r — " You have then the heart, butchers, to 
kill a woman !'' She immediately covered her fieice 
with her saya ; and, on drawing it aside for that pur- 
pose, the words " Viva la Patria*^ were discovered 
embroidered in gold on the basquiiia. The signal 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 175 

was then giren from the viceroy's balcony ; and 
they were both instantly shot. 

Zamano endeavouredy with the most jealous care, 
to conceal from the small garrison left at Bogotil, 
and from the inhabitants in general, the fact of the 
defeat the Spanish army had sustained at Vargas, 
and the consequent rapid advance of the forces 
under Bolivar. There were constant repetitions of 
the fiurce of solemn masses of thanks, and repiques 
de campanas; all the bells of the different churches 
and convents ringing, or rather jingling, according 
to the custom of the country, with ropes fastened 
to the clappers. Pompous bulletins were also pub- 
lished, announcing great victories guned by his 
Catholic Majesty's troops, at different points, over 
the insurgents, while, at the same time, it was im- 
possible to conceal the fact, that Bolivar was ad- 
vancing rapidly on the capital. 

This evident inconsistency caused an old citizen, 
on reading one of the bulletins exposed to view on 
the palace gates, to observe, with more wit than 
wisdom, that the insurgents were the strangest 
troops he had ever heard of, for that they regularly 
advanced after being defeated. ^^ One victory more, 
for his Majesty's arms !" sind the old man ; " and 
we shall have the rebels in this Plaza." The joke 
unluckily, reached the viceroy's ear, and the im- 
prudent jester narrowly escaped the banquillo; 
well satisfied with only having his shop, and the 
rest of his property, confiscated to the use of the 
state. He ultimately escaped unpunished; for 
Bolivar's forced inarch to the capital, after the 
battle of Boyacd, was very nearly the first annun- 
ciation of that victory. 



176 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

* Many royalist officers, and others, who had caose 
to dread a meeting with Bolivar, were seen on the 
very morning that the patriot army arrived at Bo- 
gota, running about the streets in quest of horses, to 
make their escape, and threatening death to Zamano, 
for his deceit, whenever they should meet him. 
He escaped, at midnight, to the river Magdalena, 
in the disguise of a Capuchin friar ; all of whom, 
being Spaniards, fled also. The evening previous 
to his flight, he gave an entertainment at the palace 
to the officers of the garrison, and some of the prin- 
cipal inhabitants ; when he assured them, there was 
no danger whatever to be apprehended from the in- 
surgent army, which, he said, had been cut to pieces 
by Barreyra's troops ; and declared, that with his 
old sandals, (as he expressed himself,) he could 
annihilate the miserable remnant that had escaped. 
Many prisoners were made in the city, and much 
treasure taken, in consequence of this extraordinary 
behaviour. It was caused by his fear, that if the 
truth were known, before he should have made his 
escape, the road to Honda on the Magdalena, which 
was a very narrow and bad one, would be crowded 
with fugitives ; and perhaps he might find it dif- 
ficult, in the confusion, to secure a gun-boat or 
champan, to save himself and his baggage. A 
detachment of the patriot cavalry, which crossed 
the country direct for the Magdalena, was very 
near intercepting Zamano ; and succeeded in taking 
several mules, laden with doubloons and other 
valuable property. 

The patriot inhabitants of the capital were now 
at liberty to give loose to their joy, on finding 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 177 

• 

themselves at length delivered from the tyran^ical 
government of the Spaniards, after so many years 
of subjection, either to martial law, or to the Au" 
diendasy courts in which corruption was so notori- 
ous, as to be commonly alluded to in the national 
songs ^^ Crowds ofall ranks thronged the streets, 
congratulating each other on an event that they had 
hardly dared to hope for ; and while some busied 
themselves in preparing triumphal arches in the 
Plaza and principal streets, to receive the victorious 
army, others hastened out to meet Bolivar, and to 
conduct him into the city. 

The army entered Bogota, proceeded by the 
band of music that had formerly belonged to the 
Spaniards, and hailed by the acclamations of the 
inhabitants, who vied with each other in expres- 
sions of joy and gratitude. Their surprise was 
great, on seeing the numerous train of prisoners 
led along, which would have fully equalled the num- 
ber of their guards, had it not been for the volun- 
teers, who flocked from every village to join the 
patriot troops, after the last battle had been decided. 
Every principal inhabitant was desirous of securing 
one or two officers, as inmates of his house ; more 
especially Englishmen, to whom they expressed the 
highest gratitude, for the share they had in the 
last victories. 

The natives of Bogota, although evidently de- 
pressed by persecution, and the consequences of a 
long civil war, in which almost every family had 
lost relatives and friends, appeared naturally dispo- 
sed to gaiety; vadtertuliets, balls, and concerts, were 
giv^i in every house. The ladies of this city are 

I 3 



178 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

remarkably lively, and pleasing in tbieir maimers. 
They are in general small in stAtore, iand deliealely 
formed; restembling, in shape and featnres> the 
Andalnsian women, mor6 peihapA than de any 
other inhabitants o£S. America. The coolness of tJie 
climate enables them to take a great deal more ex- 
ercise than is nsiial m other large cities ; and tiiis 
gives them a freshness of complexion, rarely to be 
observed in other parts of this country. 

It is ciistomary, here, f^r the ladies to appear 
very early in the morning, attended by their fe- 
male slaves, at the market, which is hM in the 
principal Plaza, in front of the palace. The pro- 
insion of fruit, flowers, and vegetables, offered for 
sale, renders it a pleasant morning walk ; the pro- 
ductions of hot climates, together witii those of 
temperate, and even of cold regions, beikig as- 
sembled here from various parts of the country, 
and at a moderate distance from the capitaL 

The walking dress, worn by the Bogotenas, is 
singular and becoming: it consists of the m^o, 
mantillay and s(ymhrero. The saya is merely a skirt, 
which covers the clothes that are worn in the honse ; 
and is made either of fine black kerseymere, or sars- 
11 et, with generally two or more deep fringes of 
broad black lace, or silk net, with tassels and black 
bugles. It is so narrow, that the wearers cannot 
possibly take long steps ; and, when they have to 
pass a gutter in the streets, they are obliged, literally, 
to take a standing jump, with both feet dose to- 
gether. Over the back of the head is the numtiUa^ 
which barely covers the neck and shoulders, and is 
kept close to the body by the folded arms. This 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 179 

is a small kind of semicirenlar doak, made always 
of fine Uadi: elotli, bound with ribbon. Lastly, 
tiiey wear a Mmbrero^ or very broad brimmed hat, 
<tf fine blaekbeayer, with a low ronnd-topped crown. 
Tliis is worn of a white colour by the female 
doTotees to Nnestra Senora del Carmen; all of 
whom are generally yoong ladies, who, on some 
occasions of sickness or p^ril, either of their own 
or some near relation, have vowed, in case of their 
ddiTerance to assume the habit of the Carmelite 
nuns for a year, or a longer period, as the case 
maybe. 

The Carmelite habit, as worn in Bogota, consists 
ai a sa^ of fine doth or stufi^, of the reddish brown, 
or firwn colour, used by the nuns of that order ; 
with a white hat, mantiUoy and shoes. Round the 
waist is bound a cord of twisted silk, in imitation 
of the scourges carried by the nuns ; having, how- 
ever, tassels, instead of knots, hanging from it. 
This dress is very becoming ; for the fair ladies, 
"vdio assume it, do not think themselves obliged 
by their vow to imitate the nuns so closely, as to 
cut off their hair. This may, perhaps, account for 
the number of youthful, and generally pretty, 
females, that are to be seen wearing it ; while the 
dark coloured habits of the other orders, as the 
Franciscan, and that of ha. Senora de Dolores, 
are usually trom only by elderly devotees, and 
those whose admirers would not be qnite incon- 
si^able, were they to take the veil in earnest. 

Bogota is built at the foot of a very steep, and 
almost inaccessible lull. On the summit of the cliff, 
about 2500 feet above the city, are the two chapels 



180 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

of Nras Senoras de Guadalupe, and de Monserrate ; 
which are only to be approached by narrow wind- 
ing paths, on which there is scarcely footing for a 
goat. A few monks reside here, in ■liiwt|n ii f iii i 
solitude, although so near a populous city ; f(Mr 
they are scarcely ever visited, except by the pea» 
sants, who carry them their weekly supplies of pro- 
visions. The traveller, whose curiosity may lead 
him to ascend this mountain, will find himself amply 
repaid for the difficulty and danger of the under- 
taking, by the magnificent view from these chapels. 
The whole of the city, with its numerous churches, 
monasteries, and private gardens, is below his feet ; 
and the valley of Bogot£^, thickly scattered with 
villages and farms, and so well watered as to ap- 
pear, in general, as if inundated, is seen in its whole 
extent, as far as the table land and town of La 
Mesa, near Tocayma. During the time the Spani- 
ards had possession of the capital, officers of their 
army used to be sentenced to an arrest at either of 
the chapels, for certain breaches of military dis- 
cipline. 

Half way up the ravine, that separates the peaks 
of Monserrate and Guadalilipe, stands a delightful 
little Quinta, belonging to Bolivar. The garden, 
that surrounds it, contains a profusion of flowers of 
every description ; more especially roses, of which 
there is, or was, a little wilderness ; and is refresh- 
ed by several fountains. The water that supplies 
tliese, is conducted, in pipes, from the mountain 
springs. Here the Libertador used to retire from 
the palace, as often as he could escape from the 
necessary business of the state. 



OAMPAIONS AND CRUIS£& 181 

The private houses in the city are generally- 
good. They are mmktj hnilt of one story high, 
round m paHoy or court-yard, containing fountains 
and orange trees in the Moorish style, which has 
been introduced from Spain, and prevails in most 
of the large cities of S. America. The staircases 
are broad, and have invariably, at the landing place, 
a painting of the giant, San Cristoval, carrying our 
Saviour, represented as an infant, across the Red 
Sea (which, by the way, is generally scarlet in 
these paintings), and bearing a palm tree for a 
walking staff. The rooms above stairs open into 
each other, all round the paHoy which gives a re- 
freshing coolness to the house. Three or four of 
the largest rooms are generally furnished for the 
reception of company ; and the variety of amuse- 
ments, suited to all ages, that are found in the dif- 
ferent apartments, make the terttUias really delight- 
ful entertainments, which would otherwise be too 
stiff and formal. Chocolate and sweetmeats are 
handed to every visitor, at all hours of the day : 
af);erwards, iced water is offered, and the guests 
are sprinkled with perfumes on their taking leave. 

The principal street is the Calle Real, which ex- 
tends from the Plaza, to the bridge of San Fran- 
cisco, and contains some of the handsomest shops 
in the city ; likewise arcades, which are much fre- 
quented in rainy weather. Most of the other 
streets, which cross this at right angles, and extend 
up the hill, as far as it is possible for buildings to 
be erected, are narrow and ill paved. They are, 
however, kept clean, and well watered, by clear 
streams that descend from the hill, and run down 
each side of the street. 



182 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Trades, of different kinds, are usually conducted 
in separate streets ; but the work-shops are rery 
dark and small ; and the Calle de loe Plat^ros, or 
silversmiths' street, leading down to the Puente de 
los Capuchf nos, is remarkable for the mean appear- 
ance, and want of cleanliness, of the Hendas. In 
the Calle de los Talabat6ros, the saddlers work 
chiefly in the open air. They were employed, 
principally, in gaily embroidering ladies pillions ; 
for side saddles were as yet only used in the neigh- 
bourhood of the sea ports. The stirrups that are 
exposed to sale here, whether of wood, iron, or 
brass, are well worth observation, for the singu- 
larity and clumsiness of their shape. They are all 
made apparently with a view to the security of the 
foot, when riding among rocky passes in the hills ; 
some of them resembling the basket hilt of a High- 
lander's claymore ; and othelrs, especially the em- 
bossed brass stirrups, not much inferior in size and 
capaciousness to one of the small ^convent bells : 
for they are large enough to admit the whole foot. 
The bridles are always the work of the silversmiths. 
They are covered with a profusion of silver orna- 
ments, as well as the cruppers with breechingSi 
which are used in this part of the Cerraniay and the 
breast straps ; both of which articles are very use- 
ful to secure the saddle in a hilly country. 

The river Fdno, which runs through the city, 
and is crossed by two bridges, is here merely a 
mountain torrent, and becomes inconsiderable in 
summer. Close to it, and leading from the con- 
vent of the Capuchin friars towards the suburbs, 
is a very long Alameda, shaded by tall poplar trees, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 183 

and endosed on both sides by gardens. Tliis is a 
well frequented promenade, and ride, in the sum- 
mer evenings ; and the guitair is often heard de- 
lightfully played, under the trees in the adjoining 
gardens. The inhabitants used frequently to relate 
to us the terror they felt, for some days, after 
Mora's an-ival from Europe with twelve thou- 
sand Spamards, who were bivouacked in, and 
about, this Alameda. He remained here nearly a 
-weel^ in sullen silence, refusing to admit to his 
presence a deputation of die inhabitants, who wait- 
ed on him to implore him to spare the city ; 
seriously deliberating, whether or not he should 
reduce it to ashes, for its adherence to Bolivar. 
Avarice at length prevailed. He was content with 
an enormous contribution ; but executions became 
so numerous, that even his merciless colleagues 
remonstrated against them. 

The cathedral is a fin^ modem fabric, built of a 
hard white stone ; and is a very striking object, on 
iqyproaching the city through the valley of Bogota, 
by the road of Facatativd, Along the front, which 
faces the Plaza, runs a noble broad terrace, which 
i£ ascended by eight or ten steps, called el altozanoy 
also paved with white stones. The interior of the 
cathedral was not finished ; but was ornamented 
with several handsome paintings of siunts, and 
scriptural subjects, procured from Italy, at a great 
expence, by the Viceroy Zamano. The screen across 
the choir, and the partitions between the difiPerent 
chapels, were beautifully carved in a hard black 
wood, and highly polished ; forming a striking con- 
trast to the white pannels, surrounded with gold 



184 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

beading. It has, since then, been reduced to 
rains, together with most of the other pnblic edi- 
fices here, at Popayan, and at Lima, by a sneces- 
sion of earthquakes. 

At the opposite side of the Plaza, stands the pa- 
lace, a brick edifice, the exterior of which is fiur 
from being handsome. The suites of rooms, how- 
ever, in the interior, are large, and magnificently 
furnished ; especially the Sala de Audiencia, which 
remained when inhabited by Bolivar, as it had been 
left by Zamano, fitted up in a style of vice-regal 
splendour. Two state carriages, which stood in a 
coach-house in the patio, were profusely gilt, and 
the side pannels were painted with fancy landscapes. 
Next to the palace is the calabozoy as is frequently 
the case in the capital cities of S. America. 

The convents and monasteries in Bogota are 
numerous, and rich in their decorations. That of 
San Francisco deserves particular notice, for the 
number of valuable paintings, which cover the 
walls of the corridors. There are two colleges for 
young students, designed for the church and law. 
One of these is situated where the CompaSia of 
the Jesuits formerly stood ; and the other behind tfte 
Calle Real. Though small, they are well regulated ; 
and are always filled with young men of the first 
families in New Grenada. One set of students 
wears white scarfs, the other red, to distinguish 
them from each other. 

The Casa de Moneda, or mint, is the handsomest 
public building in Bogota ; and the accommodations 
for the officers, belonging to the establishment, are 
excellent. The machinery for coining is, of course 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 185 

of the old Spanish construction, but of the greatest 
strength and solidity; and every department is 
segulated and arranged with such minute attention, 
as shows the value that the Spaniards placed on 
these great sources of their wealth. By the laws 
of the colonies, every owner of a mine was obliged 
to bring his gold and silver to the nearest mint, 
where it was paid for at the price established by 
Government ; all other traffic in the precious metals 
being declared contraband. It was left, however 
to his option, whether he would have his bullion 
coined into specie, on paying the fees of the mint, 
and other incidental expences. These were gene- 
rally so contrived, as to make it perfectly indifferent, 
in point of profit, to the owner of the metal, which 
course he adopted. 

The hospital of San Juan de Dios, established, 
as usual, in a monastery of that order of friars, is a 
noble institution ; and redeems these friars, at least, 
from the charges of gluttony, indolence, and total 
uselessness, which are imputed, with too great truth, 
to many of their brethren of other orders. Several 
hundred sick, of every description of disease, whe- 
ther* inhabitants of the capital or strangers, are 
admitted here, carefully nursed, and even, if neces- 
sary, clothed by these friars. They have a hand- 
some chapel, and a dispensary for the poor ; to 
whom they also daily distribute food at the kitchen. 
The expenses, which are considerable, are defrayed 
by the revenues from the estates, which these, as 
well as some other friars, possess; and by sums col- 
lected in begging through the town. 

Every night, during passion- week, processions, 



186 CAlllPAIGNS AND GRUI91fi8. 

of an imposing and singolar nature, pass throogli 
the streets by torch-light. These consist of images* 
as large as life, of onr Saviour and his disciples, 
the Virgin Mary, and angels. Pontius Pilate, the 
Jews, and Roman soldiers follow, all in their pro* 
per costome ; placed, in groups, on different move- 
able platforms. These sets of images belong to the 
convents, and represent most of the principal cir- 
cumstances, which are recorded as having occurred, 
during that eventful week. They are carried by a 
number of men, who volunteer for this service ; 
which, though very &tigning, from the weight of the 
images and the scaffolding, is considered to be 
highly meritorious. The men are concealed from 
the view of the public by black curtains, reaching 
to the ground on every side of the platform. • 

The scene of the Lasi Sfipper^ which is the pro- 
perty of the Franciscans, is one of the largest and 
most splendid. There is a long table on the platform, 
covered with silver plates, and other vessels of the 
same metal, and spread with a profusion of the 
finest real fruits that can be procured. The taUe 
is surrounded by images of our Saviour and the 
twelve apostles, seated in different attitudes, and 
in the costume in which they are generally repfe* 
sented in paintings. The weight of this imdlei 
obliges the bearers to make frequent halts; and it 
is customary, on these occasions, for females, who 
either really have, or pretend, a longing for some 
of the fruit at the table, to apply for it, with a 
certainty of not being refused. The angels^ re- 
presented in some of the groups, are generally 
personated by young children, whose mothers make 



CAMPAI0N8 AND CRUISES. 187 

great interest to have them elerated to this distin- 
guished honour ; which is often a subject for them 
to boast of, throngh the remainder of their lives. 
Tlie tordi-bearers, called los JvdUay who are re- 
g^arded with a superstitions dread by all children, 
and by many of the full-grown mob, are all young 
men of family, who disguise themselres for the 
amusement of masquerading. They wear long 
blaek silk myas^ and hideous masks, with high 
pmnted caps, or corrozos; resembling those worn 
by the rictims of the Inquisition, at an Acto de 
FL Their torches not only serre to illuminate 
tfie streets, but are also used to make room for the 
procession. 

A masquerade, of a very different description, 
appeared in the Plaza, in honour of Santander, on 
the eyening when he gare a grand ball, on the occa- 
mon of the union between Venezuela and Cundi- 
namarca. The noise of fireworks, inunediately in 
front of the palace drew all the dancers into the 
balcony ; and a triumphal car appeared, drawn by 
a diained youth, designed to represent Fernando 
7mo., with royal robes and a gilt crown. In the 
car rode an Indian boy, wearing a gaily coloured 
pasteboard coronet, decorated with plumes of fea- 
diers, a scarlet mantle, and the sceptre of the 
Incas. He was escorted by a troop of his coun- 
trymen, armed with bows and arrows ; and sang 
some Terses of a national song, alluding to Moh- 
tenzoma, and the discovery of South America. 
Santander then invited him, with his attendants, 
into the sakm^ where they danced the Indian dance 
of JfofTi-maiTt, and then retired. 



190 CAUPAIGNII AND GRUISKg. 

necesuiyt u the ground is nsnally mther 
up, than plonglied. Aa it has but one handle, tb( . 
plooghmui is enabled, at the same time, to stew ^ 
Mid to use the goad ; he therefore requires tt 
aMiBtance in guiding hi^ oxen or mulee, which M 
harnessed in a very old-fashioned manner. IV ' 
costomeofthe huBbandmeu, and the appearance rf 
of the plonghs, drawn generally by a yoke of ox(M) 
Btrikiiigly resemble those in the vignettes, whiek 
are sometimes to be fonnd in old editions of VirgiTi 
works. The harrows are even more Eimpte in their 
formation than the ploughs. They are often no- 
thing more than long branches of thorns, fastened 
together, and rendered sufficiently heavy, by largi 
blocks of wood tied across. 

Instead of the corn being threshed, it is trod 
according to the ancient method, by buUi 
horses. The latter are generally preferred fiiri 
purpose, as being tbe more active and 
of the two. A circular iuclosure h railed In, 
about the sise of those usually constructed 
land for equestrian eshibitions. 
this there is piled as much wheat, or othor; 
in the straw, as they think prudi 
the state of the weather, to risk u 
the rick. Having prepared the j;: 
ing, and beatiag it with masebu, 
rammers, until it is r***"*^ |'**' 'd mid 
strew it, about knee 
be trodden out. 
or thirty brood 
always used for 
broken in for 




CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISEg. 189 

There it disappears for some minutes ; and rises 
below the falls, shivered to pieces. It was cus- 
tomary, some years ago, during the time of the 
Spanish government, for parties of pleasure from 
the city to meet at Tecuenddma, for the purpose 
of seeing a liying bullock thrown in, and swept 
over the cataract.' This cruel exhibition, how- 
ever, as well as that of bull fighting, has been 
abolished, much to the credit of the Colombian 
government. 

The roads through 'New Grenada are not cal- 
culated for wheel-carriages ; excepting immediately 
in the vicinity of the large towns. Consequently, 
merchandize, and provisions of every description, 
are conveyed from place to place on mules. The 
breed is necessarily much attended to, as may be 
perceived by the large droves of these valuable 
animals, that are constantly passing along the 
roads. In size and strength they are inferior to 
none in the world ; and the sleekness of their skins, 
and their fat condition, bear witness to the care 
that is taken of them. Grain, of every kind, is 
conveyed in small sacks, made of bullocks' hide 
untanned, of a size convenient to be] carried by 
mules. These both preserve the corn perfectly dry 
during the journeys, and last for years. 

The plough, used in the interior of South Ame- 
rica, is of a very primitive construction ; as are all 
the implements of agriculture and mechanics. It 
is of wood, and in one piece, being made of the 
crooked limb of a tree, selected for the purpose. 
It is sometimes, although rarely, strengthened in 
the share part with iron ; but this is not essentially 



! 



190 CAMPAIGNI AND CRUISK8. 

necessary, as the ground k osDally rather sorBtched 
up, than ploughed. As it has but one handles the 
plonghman is enabled, at the same time, to steer it, 
and to nse the goad; he therefore requires no 
assistance in guiding his oxen or mules, which are 
harnessed in a very old-fashioned manner. The 
costume of the husbandmen, and the appearance <tf 
of the ploughs, drawn generally by a yoke of oxen, 
strikingly resemble those in the vignettes, wliioh 
are sometimes to be found in old editions of Viigil's 
works. The harrows are even more simple in their 
formation than the ploughs. They are often no- 
thing more than long branches of thorns, fastened 
together, and rendered sufficiently heavy, by huge 
blocks of wood tied across. 

Instead of the com being threshed, it is trod ont, 
according to the ancient method, by bullocks or 
horses. The latter are generally preferred for this 
purpose, as being the more active and manageable 
of the two. A circular indosure is railed in, of 
about the size of those usually constructed in EiUg- 
land for equestrian exhibitions. In the centre of 
this there is piled as much wheat, or other grain, 
in the straw, as they think prudent, according to 
the state of the weather, to risk at one time out of 
the rick. Having prepared the ground, by sweep- 
ing, and beating it with mazetasy or heavy wooden 
rammers, imtil it is perfectly hard and level, they 
strew it, about knee deep, with the straw that is to 
be trodden out. They then turn in about twenty 
or thirty brood mares, with their foals, which are 
always used for this purpose ; as they are never 
broken in for riding, and therefore it is of little 



CAMPiklONS AND CRUIS£8. 191 

conseqaence if they should be knocked up, or lamed 
in the operation* These are kept in a constant gal- 
lop round the endosore, by a boy who rides after 
them with a long whip ; and further urged to exer- 
tion, by the shouts of the numerous idlers, who 
always assemble at the trUla, as this mode of 
threshing com is called ; for the time of perform- 
ing it is considered a season of rejoicing, and re- 
freshments are provided in abundance for all who 
choose to attend. At intervals of about a quarter 
of an hour, the horses are let out for a few minutes 
to take breath ; while the straw is shaken up with 
singularly large three-pronged forks, and, if found 
to be sufficiently trampled, is thrown over the rail- 
ing to make room for more* As there is always a 
large drove of mares collected for the trillay to fur- 
nish, in succession, reliefs to those that become 
tired, the trampling out of the com continues all 
day, and, if the weather be dear, all night without 
intermission, until all the com in the ricks is 
thrashed. 

The grain, with the chaff and dust of the floor, 
is swept up, and transported in algttenas, or large 
hide panniers, on mules, to a spot which is always 
chosen on the brow of a gentle slope, in an exposed 
situation, for the convenience of having an uninter- 
mpted breeze of wind ; as on that they entirely de- 
pend for winnowing their com. They effect this, 
by throwing the grain, as it is brought from the 
iriUoy into the air, with broad wooden shovels. 
This they continue doing, until it is sufficiently 
freed from chaff and light dust. It is then further 
cleansed by means of sieves, which are made of 



i94si 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



hfdes pierced with holes. Barley, or rice, is 
usually kept merely under sheds, or, by the more 
careful, in capacious wooden troughs, which are 
frequently left completely a la discrecion of the 
poultry. Wheat, liihich is far more valuable, is 
generally stored up in very large hide sacks, each 
capable of holding a good many bushels. These 
are ranged upright against the wall, in storehouses, 
or even iii the open air ; for, when laced up with 
thongs, they are impervious to wet. 

The country people are very friendly and hos- 
pitable; particularly fond of conversing with 
strangers, and of asking questions respecting 
Europe ; about which they have in general very 
confused and indefinite ideas. In passing through 
a village, either alone, or in command of a detach- 
ment, it is considered a point of politeness to go to 
the house of the priest. To omit this would be 
considered a serious slight, and mark of disrespect. 
Indeed the alcalde, to whom it is necessary to 
apply for quarters and rations for the detachment, 
after declaring, as is probably the truth, how happy 
he should be in having the officer as his gulBst, 
generally concludes by hinting, that tlie Seiior 
Cura has a right to the preference. 

These clergymen, especially in districts remote 
from large cities, are completely petty sovereigns 
in their respective parishes. Their people always 
mention, or address them, with a respect approach- 
ing the veneration due to a superior being ; im- 
plicitly obeying them, and appearing anxious for 
any opportunity of rendering them some service. 
Besides the regular tithes, they never approach 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 193 

Iheir Cora without some present of fruit or poultry ; 
and regularly assemble at harvest, or other times 
when much work is to be done, to assist his peons, 
without any expectation of reward. The Cura 
generally inhabits a small neat house, comfortably 
furnished, which is situated dose to the church, 
and contains a library chiefly composed of works 
on religion ; such as. Lives of the Saints, Latin 
Homilies, and works of controversy. They also 
frequently possess some very curious old books, 
and manuscripts, on miscellaneous subjects. ^ 

The secular clergy are, for the most part, Euro- 
peans, or their immediate descendants. They are 
consequently, in general, better educated, and more 
enlightened than the friars, who are almost all 
crioles. These are a very ignorant, and, of course, 
a very intolerant set of men, who have scarcely a 
second idea on any subject, beyond what they 
learn within the convent walls ; where, as some of 
the brotherhood themselves admit, a great deal of 
profligacy is witnessed. Those orders, who are per- 
mitted by their vows to possess lands, live in indo- 
lence on their revenues; excepting, as has been 
already observed, the monks of San Juan de Dios. 
The Padres Mendigos, such as the Franciscans, 
(iidio alone are allowed to beg every day,) can 
always collect enough of alms for their support, 
without being under the necessity of working. In 
some few country convents, the Dominicans, who 
are the wealthiest order, would occasionally admit 
Bolivar's sick and wounded. Our criole comrades, 
however, assured us, that this hospitality was merely 
to be accounted for by the war, which rendered it 

K 



194 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

dangerous, at that time, for them to refuse their as- 
sistance. Their mode of treating wounds is rery 
antiquated, and far from being always successfol. 

Col. Rooke, who lost his arm in consequence 
of a wound that he received at the battle of 
Vargas, was left behind at a small convent not far 
from Tnnja; for it was considered dangerous to 
carry him with the army, through bad roads, so 
soon after undergoing a capital operation. His 
arm had been skilfully amputated by an English 
surgeon, who left every necessary direction with 
the friars, for the treatment of the patient, and 
dressing the stump. They, however, had more 
confidence in their own modes of cure, which had 
been either handed down to them by tradition, or 
were extracted from some old treatise on healing, 
to be met with in the library of the monastery ; 
and, having taken off the bandages, stuffed the 
wound with lint, moistened with oil and wine. 
This treatment brought on a mortification; and 
caused our poor colonel's death. 

Bolivar, having succeeded in liberating the ex- 
tensive and populous territory of New Grenada, 
which was again called by its ancient name Cun- 
dinamarca, was enabled to recruit the army, suffi- 
ciently to establish garrisons at every point, where 
there was a possibility of an attack ; as also to send 
numerous levies over the Andes, to reinforce the 
armies in Venezuela, in lieu of the troops he had 
drawn from that part of the country. Every thing 
being tranquil on this side of the Cordillera, he had 
leisure to turn his thoughts to the long projected 
union between Cundinamarca and Venezuela; 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 195 

which were to fonn a republic under the name of 
Colombia. The Venezuelan Congress, then sitting 
in Angostura, unanimously agreed to this ; and a 
new Congress, composed of deputies from every 
one of the liberated provinces, assembled at the 
town of Nra. Senora del Rosario de Cucuta. 



CHAPTER XII. 

SANTANDER APPOINTED VICE-PRESIDENT OF COLOMBIA. 

EXPEDITION AGAINST POPAYAN. PASS OF BOCA DEL 

MONTE. CITY OF NEYVA. MOUNTAIN PASS OF QLIN- 

DIU. INDIAN CARAVANSERAIS. ROAD THROUGH RA- 
VINES. INDIAN CARRIERS. ^TAKING THE TOWN OF LA 

PLATA.T-PARAMO OF PITAYO. CACIQUE LORENZO. — 

LAGOONS ON THE CORDILLERA. — VICTORY OVER THE 

SPANIARDS. CALZADA RETREATS TO POPAYAN. VIEW 

OF THE VALLEY OF CAUCA. CITY OF CALL PLANTA- 
TIONS IN THE VALLEY. GOLD MINES AT QUILICHAO. 

TRAFFIC WITH THE MINERS. RUINED ESTATES AND 

QUINTAS. GEN. CALZADA EVACUATES POPAYAN. GEN. 

VALDEZ'S CONDUCT. 

Bolivar now left BogotsL, to join the armies 
that had been collected in different parts of Vene- 
luela ; and turned all his attention on the province 
of Car&cas, where Monllo had concentrated his 
forces. Previous to his departure, he left Gen. 
Francisco de Paula Santander, who had been ap- 
pointed by Congress Vice-President of Colombia ; 
in command of Santa F^. 

Intelligence was received at head-quarters, that a 
party of the royalists, who had advanced from Po- 
payan, were pressing men into their service, and 

k2 



196 CAMPAIONS AND CRUISES. 

plundering the upper part of the province of Ne^ra. 
Santander, therefore, detached a division of the 
army against them, under the command of Crenends 
Valdez and Mirez; with orders to penetrate, if 
possible, into the valley of Caiica, and to advance 
towards Quito* This division consisted of four 
regiments of infantry ; the Albions, commanded 
by Col. Mcintosh, in which corps were collected all 
the English who had accompanied Bolivar over 
the Cordillera, with some others lately arrived at 
Bogota, reinforced by crioles who were recruited 
in Tunja, and disciplined in the English manner ; 
and the battalions of Ne^va, Bogota, and Cundi- 
namarca. There were also three regiments of 
cavalry : the Guias, or Guides, commanded by the 
veteran Carbajal ; the Huzares del Oriente, Col. 
Cestari ; and the Escolta, Col. Luque. 

The road, after leaving Santa F^, passes for a 
considerable distance along causeways, which have 
been raised in the midst of marshes. After 
passing the Indian village of Bogot;^, from which 
the capital has received its name, the road is level 
and good, through Fontabon, as far as La Boca 
del Monte. Here the escaUra commences, being 
a succession of broad stone steps, each a foot in 
height, cut in the solid rock. By this the army 
descended, through a deep glen, covered on each 
side with magnificent forest trees, to a rugged 
ridge, about a thousand yards below the level of 
the table land of Bogot;^. It became necessary, of 
course, to dismount the artillery, and to convey the 
guns and their carriages to the bottom on mules. 
The confusion was very great among the baggage 



CAlfPAIGNS AND CRUISBS 197 

animals ; several of which fell under their loads, 
and rolled over each other, to the great embarass- 
ment of the peons. The Indians assert, that the 
plain or valley of Bogota was formerly a lake, 
which burst its way down to the Magdalena, by this 
ravine^ as a natural drain or desagtuuMro. The 
difference in temperature that is felt, in less than 
an hour, by this abrupt descent, and by the vallies 
beneath being sheltered from the cool mountain 
breezes enjoyed above, is so great as to be 
oppressive. 

Between Tocaymas and Espinal, the army pass- 
ed the broad and rapid river Magdalena, in cham- 
panes, or zampanes, at the Paso del Flandez. 
Here, we found the country in a high state of cul- 
tivation, and the climate very warm ; especially in 
the neighbourhood of Tocaymas, and Purification. 
Villages, and populous towns, are at short distances 
from each other; which circumstance, together 
with the hospitable character of the inhabitants, 
and the great abundance of provisions, rendered 
the march pleasant, both to officers and soldiers. 

The city of Ney va ^s the last place of any conse- 
quence, between Bogot'^, and the second branch of 
tlie Cordillera, which divides the Entre-Andes. 
from Popayan and the valley of Caiica. The inha- 
bitants of this city and the neighbourhood, have 
received the appellation of Los Caratozos, from a 
cutaneous disease very prevalent among them, call- 
ed cardie ; which produces white spots on different 
parts of their copper-coloured skin ; and, in some 
instances, turns even the hair white, in patches, on 
the head. It was easy, by this being almost 



198 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

universal among them, to distinguish the men of 
the regiment that was formed there, from those of 
the Cundinamarca, or any other corps* 

From Ney va, there are two roads leading over 
the mountains into the province of Calica ; by the 
pass of Ibagu^, and by the Paramo of Pitay5. 
The former is generally used by merchants, and by 
such travellers as can afford to hire carriers ; with- 
out whose assistance very few would find it possi- 
ble to surmount the difficulties of this road. It 
leads direct to the town of Cartage, over the moun- 
tains of Quindiu, a low branch of the Cordillera. 
The first part of the road traverses a swampy 
forest, which arrests the passing clouds, and is, 
consequently, almost perpetually visited by rain. 
These wilds are totally uninhabited ; the only shel- 
ter to be obtained being in a few ruinous huts, called 
tamhos, that have been erected for this purpose at 
certain distances. Here the traveller may lodge 
at night ; but must make up his mind to be an- 
noyed by musquitos, and to be in danger from scor- 
pions, centipedes, and vermin of all kinds, included 
in the expressive term savandija^ which swarm in 
these places. 

The tambo is an ancient Indian institution, very 
much of the nature of a caravanserai ; and is fre- 
quently met with in most mountainous parts of 
S. America, particularly towards Quito, and in 
Alto Peru. The Indians, in the neighbourhood of 
each, keep the roof in some kind of repair, and pro- 
vide it with fuel, earthen ollas, and calabashes, for 
the use of all travellers who may be compelled to 
take shelter in it, during such a continuance of bad 
weather, as to render the roads impassable. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 199 

Even in the most favourable seasons, this part of 
the road cannot be passed through in less than a 
fortnight, or three weeks ; exclusive of the casual 
delays, when the mountain streams become sud- 
denly swollen by heavy rains. It is totally impos- 
sible to obtain provisions, of any kind, during the 
journey. It is therefore necessary for every tra- 
veller to take with him supplies, sufficient to main- 
tain himself and his peons for a month at least ; as 
well as maiz for the mules, for they can get nothing 
to eat, while in the forest, except the leaves of a 
small species of cane, called culegiiiy which they 
find occasionally. 

After having passed this dreary tract, those who 
have hitherto rode are obliged to dismount from 
their mules, on account of the narrowness of the 
roads, which allow no room for the rider's knees. 
Besides, as the paths are hollowed out by the rains, 
and are at all times slippery, they would expose 
him to the imminent danger of breaking his legs, 
at the first stumble of the animal carrying him. 
The path, for the greater part of the way, follows 
the course of the winter torrents, which form gul- 
lies, sometimes twenty or thirty feet deep. The 
sides and top of these are so overgrown with 
shrubs, from the luxuriance of the vegetation, that 
the travellers often proceed, for a considerable dis- 
tance, in almost total darkness. When passengers 
meet droves of loaded mules, or bullocks, in the 
narrow passes, they are obliged to climb up the 
sides of these subterranean galleries, by means of 
the roots of shrubs, until the animals have passed. 
There are, at certain distances, openings called 



■•1 



200 CAMPAIGNS AND CRCISKS. 

cofUadSroSf that lead out of these gullies. Here 
the cattle drivers halt their herds^ to count them, 
and until one of their numher has proceeded to 
the next opening, to ascertain that the road is 
clear. 

At the commencement of this part of the pass, 
carriers, cdMed Chasquisy are stationed, who under- 
take the laborious task of transporting goods of 
every description, and even passengers, in safety. 
The men, who are bred up from their youth to 
this way of obtaining a livelihood, earn their hire 
very fairly, by their excessive and continued exer- 
tions. They carry their load on a pad, which rests 
on their shoulders, in the same manner as that used 
by the porters in London ; part of the weight 
being supported by a broad strap, which passes 
round their forehead. With the assistance of a 
garrdte, or stout staff, which they find essentially 
necessary, for steadying them in the perilous slip- 
pery descents, they carry with apparent ease from 
six to eight arrdbas, (that is, from a hundred and 
fifty to two hundred pounds,) at a kind of trotting 
pace ; and can persevere, in this hard work, for a 
month together', travelling eight or nine hours a 
day. After receiving payment for a journey, they 
will do no work whatever, as long as they have a 
quartillo left ; being all immoderately addicted to 
the excessive use of aguardiente and chica. This 
periodical intemperance, and violent labour at in- 
tervals, unite in rapidly undermining their consti- 
tution ; and it is observable, that it is rare to see a 
middle-aged Chasqui, 
When they carry passengers, they have a small 



CAMPAIONS AND CRUISES. 201 

chair, with elbows, strapped to their shoulders. 
In this each traveller secures himself firmly, so as 
to avoid, as much as possible, any motion ; which 
might shake the bearer, and probably throw him 
off his balance. The chasquis always demand a 
greater sum, for the conveyance of a passenger, 
than for goods of any kind ; alleging, as a reason, 
that they run a much greater risk of falling, in 
carrying a moveable burthen. They also repeat- 
edly caution him against any sudden change of 
posture ; and frequently request, and even insist 
on the traveller covering his eyes with a bandage, 
in dangerous passes ; more especially if they are 
carrying a female, for whom they make it a rule 
always to charge a double fare ; and whom, never- 
theless, Aey will always avoid carrying, if possible, 
for some superstitious reasons prevalent among 
themselves. Their backs are always excoriated, 
in the same manner as those of beasts of burthen. 
On these journies, they are remarkably abstemious 
and temperate ; and, although they are excessively 
fond of spirits at other times, they then refuse them, 
even if offered ; well knowing that their own lives, 
and that of the passengers, depend on their steadi- 
ness and activity on these paths. Their usual pro- 
vision for the road consists of a small bag of flour, 
made of parched maiz coarsely pounded on a 
stone. This they simply mix with cold water in a 
horn ; and about a teacup full of this raw gruel, 
called fdpa, is enough for them at a meal. 

There is another very portable provision, much 
used by the Indians on long journies over the 
mountains, where they are obliged to undergo great 

k3 



202 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

fatigae, and cannot either procure, or carry with 
them, any other food. This is a small calabash, 
not much larger than a turkey's egg, full of a white 
floury substance, made of burned shells pounded 
fine, and mixed with the root of an herb, called 
molii, found in the mountains. They roll up a 
small pinch of this in a green coca leaf, which re- 
sembles that of a citron, and keep it in their mouth 
while on the journey. It is said to have an ex- . 
hilarating e£Fect, and to take away the sense of 
hunger. 

The road that leads to the pass of the Paramo 
de Pitayo, although much longer than that al- 
ready described, and winding through a moun- 
tainous country, is, neyertheless, generally used 
by armies ; on account of the country being more 
open, and the greater facility of obtaining fuel and 
provisions. 

While Yaldez was at Neyva, he received in- 
telligence that a large party of the royalists was in 
the town of La Plata, about ten leagues from that 
city. He, therefore, determined on endeavouring 
to surprize them. The position chosen by them 
was a strong one ; for the approach to the town 
was defended by a rapid rocky river, which was in 
no part fordable. The bridge across it was built 
of guadua, steadied by means of long hide lasos ; 
some of which the royalists had cut away, and were 
prepared to remove the rest on the approach of an 
enemy, by which means they would be enabled to 
pull down the bridge with ease. Nevertheless, the 
place was surprised before daylight in the morning, 
the Spanish sentry, posted on the road leading to 



CAMPAieKS AND CRUISES. 203 

the bridge, having been made prisoner, before he 
had time to give any alarm ; and the town was 
taken, with very little loss sustained by the patriots. 
The royalist army lost several in killed and wound- 
ed ; and retreated precipitately overt he mountains, 
leaving behind them their baggage and stores. 

We now advance through Las Piedras and 
L^e, into the hilly country, leading to the second 
branch of the Cordillera. The road, winding 
through rocky defiles, was frequently obstructed by 
torrents, across most of which bambn bridges were 
thrown. These had, in general, been greatly da- 
maged by the enemy in their retreat ; but were 
readily repaired by our soldiers, as materials were 
to be found in plenty, and the construction was 
very simple. 

The army at length arrived at the foot of the 
Paramo. This, although it be not quite so lofty as 
those of the first range, is, nevertheless, impassable 
when the weather is at all bad, and many lives are 
constantly lost in crossing it. Unlike the ascent 
from the plains of Cazanares, there were no forests 
on the lower hills. The road wound along the 
edges of torrents, meeting occasionally small villa- 
ges and tambos, with patches of barley, potatoes, 
and aracacha. Notwithstanding the weather being 
comparatively fine, when we passed this Paramo, 
we lost nearly as many men as at the former one. 
A short time previous to our anival, the Padre 
Cura of a neighbouring village died here, on the 
top of the pass, together with all his attendants, 
from the inclemency of the weather. 

As it was next to impossible for mules to cross. 



204 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

especially if loaded, Valdez employed a number 
of Indians to carry the baggie and powder.. Their 
Cazique, by name Lorenzo, was a bitter enemy to 
the Spaniards ; and often boasted of the number of 
them he had decoyed off the road, and killed^ at 
different times, while acting as their guide. He 
cautioned us against tasting any spirits, while at 
this elevation ; as, he said, they would only increase 
the drowsiness invariably felt ; and recommended 
cold water, or ice, to those who were thirsty. 

It is a remarkable fact, that on the summit of 
this, and many other Paramos in the Cordillera, 
are found lagoons of water of an unfathomable 
depth. These are said, by the Indians, never to 
freeze ; which is caused, as they affirm, by the sub- 
terranean fires that keep up the temperature of 
the water. Their extreme depth is, however, the 
most probable cause ; for, so far from being warm, 
they are always of an icy coldness. 

At the foot of the Paramo is a small village, 
called Pitayo, where our troops arrived severely 
fatigued ; and where we were in hopes to have re- 
mained undisturbed a few days, to refresh ourselves, 
and clean arms. No provisions of any kind were 
to be obtained in the place ; and the troops, who 
had received no rations for two days, were com- 
pelled by hunger to wander into the neighbouring 
country, in search of potatoes and aracacha roots. 
The very day after our crossing the Paramo, while 
a large proportion of the army was scattered about 
for this purpose, the Spanish army suddenly at- 
tacked our advanced guai*d, commanded by an 
officer of the name of Pizarro ; who, though se- 



CAMPiifcHM AND CRUISES. 205 

verely wounded, maintained his position, until 
Valdez had time to form line. The royalists had 
the advantage of being fresh from good quarters 
in Guambia, well fed and clothed ; while our poor 
fellows were half starved, in great want of clothing, 
and with their arms in bad order, having had no 
opportunity, or shelter, lately, to clean them in. 
Every man knew, however, that the case was des- 
perate ; for it was out of the question to think of 
retreating over the Paramo they had just passed. 
They, therefore, vigorously attacked the Spaniards, 
who were advancing down the heights into the 
town ; and, in spite of a heavy fire, drove them, at 
the point of the bayonet, back again up the hill, 
and into the woods that surrounded the town. 
The enemy fled, in confusion, to Guambia ; leaving 
the road for about three leagues strewed with 
arms, accoutrements, and baggage. They lost, also, 
many killed, wounded, and prisoners : these last 
were subsequently shot, by order of Valdez. 

The road was now open for us, as far as the 
fertile valley of Caiica ; the Spanish Gen. Calzada, 
who commanded the main body of the royalist 
army, being so dispirited by the check it had re- 
ceived at Pitayo, that he immediately fell back on 
the city of Popayan, and left the roads leading to 
the valley undefended. There was still a great deal 
of very bad mountain road to be passed, previous 
to descending into the province of Caiica, which 
greatly retarded our march ; for we were encum- 
bered with wounded, and had with difficulty been 
able to obtain mules sufficient to carry them, and 
the powder, even by pressing officers* beasts. 



206 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The deep mud was very fbtigaing, both to the 
troops and beasts of burthen; for the congtant 
trampling of cattle, back and forward, had worn the 
gronnd into a succession of deep furrows, exacdy 
resembling ploughed land, at the distance of a male's 
pace apart. The ridges, between these ftirrows, 
were, necessarily, narrow at the top, and quite slip- 
pery with mud ; so that the foot passengers were 
constantly falling down, unless they preferred the 
fatigue of stepping out of one hole into the next, 
sometimes quite up to the middle in mud. Many 
horses and mules were completely knocked up, and 
left behind ; and the prisoners that had been spared, 
to carry such of the wounded as could not sit a 
horse, sufiPered severely. 

The rear-guard, in charge of the powder, bag- 
gage, and hospital, had a most harassing duty to 
perform. The orders were peremptory, to allow 
nothing whatever to be left behind ; and therefore, 
when the mules flagged, and fell down under their 
burthens, the guard was obliged to halt, and raise 
them up. This frequently delayed their arriyal, 
until some hours after the main body was com- 
fortably established in the bivouac ; the difficulties 
on the road increasing, as the beasts became more 
tired, and the darkness thickened. 

The view of the valley of Caiica is exceedingly 
beautiful, as it first opens on the sight, from a steep 
hill over the little city of €a61to, which is the first 
habitable place to be seen, on emerging from the 
gloomy woods that cover the mountains. It was an 
animating prospect for our army, harassed, as it 
was, by the wretched roads through which it had 



s 



CABfPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 207 

marched ; and almost exhausted by the scanty fare 
on which it had subsisted, since leaving La Plata. 
The valley forms an extensive amphitheatre, and is 
perfectly level, to the very feet of the lofty moun- 
tains, by which it is surrounded on every side, 
particularly towards the sea-coast. The river 
Caiica, from which the valley takes its name, 
smooth in its course through the low country, 
winds along the valley in a serpentine direction, 
and may be traced in aU its fertilizing wanderings 
from this eminence. From every part of the moun- 
t4ins, streams descend, and water those parts of the 
plain which are not visited in its course by the 
river. Every production of the tropical climates is 
here cultivated in abundance. There are extensive 
plantations of sugar-cane, cacao, maiz, cotton, and 
tobacco of a very superior quality. This last, when 
carefully cured, has all the flavour of the Havannah 
leaf. The coffee tree grows in the hedge rows^ 
that surround the plantations, without any care or 
cultivation, to about the size of a standard cherry 
tree, which it much resembles in shape and foliage. 
The berries are produced in profusion, and are 
large and of a good quality. They were, at that 
time, held in no estimation by the inhabitants, who 
never use them but as a medicine, and had then no 
sale for them. The plantain grows here very luxu- 
riantly, and bears fruit of a much larger size than 
any we had as yet seen. 

Caloto has been once a considerable place, and is 
still dignified with the name of a city ; but it has 
fbw houses remaining, and there is scarcely any 
vestige to be seen of its former size. The principal 



208 CAMPAIOKS AND CRUISES. 

town is Cali, which is situated in a comer of the 
valley, immediately under a rocky and precipitous 
range of mountains, lying between it and the shores 
of the Pacific ocean. 

This town is large and clean, well watered in 
every street, and has a clear mountain stream run- 
ning close to it, which is a great luxury in a warm 
climate. The houses are aU old, but strongly built ; 
and every attention is paid in them to coolness 
and cleanliness. Each house has an extensive gar- 
den adjoining, well stocked vrith plantains, oranges, 
limes, and various other tropical fruits and vege- 
tables. This an*angement renders the town very 
healthy; so much so, that sickness is scarcely known 
here, except during the rainy season. Cali is seen 
to great advantage from a small^ hill, that rises im- 
mediately at the back of the town, and is a favour- 
ite evening ride. From hence all the private g^- 
dens are seen, as well as those belonging to the 
monasteries. These are kept remarkably neat by 
the lay-brothers, and look quite picturesque, when 
the friars are seen, in their peculiar habit, slowly 
pacing the shady walks of their seclusion. In the 
neighbourhood of the town is an exiensive gua^dva 
wood ; the fruit of which feeds numerous herds of 
swine. The pork, fed in this way, is considered 
excellent. It has, at all events, the advantage of 
being deanly, which is saying a great deal in its 
favour in South America ; for in most parts of the 
country, especially where homed cattle are abun- 
dant, pigs are little better than carnivorous animals. 
Cartage is the next town of any size in the valley. 
There are also the villages of Buga and Llano 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBg* 209 

Grande ; in all of which tobacco is cultivated with 
particular care, and meets with a ready sale at half 
a real a pound. 

The plantations in this valley have much the 
appearance of small villages. Besides the princi- 
pal house for the residence of the proprietor, there 
is generally a chapel, in which mass is regularly 
performed, on Sundays and holy days, by a chap- 
lain. There is also a bodegduy or shop for the sale 
of sundry articles in general tse, to the labourers 
on the plantation, and their families, who have all 
small cottages built round the patr&rCs dwelling. 
These peons are to the full as hard working as 
slaves ; and are much more attached to the family 
whose estate they cultivate, and whose name they 
generally adopt. Although they all have small 
pieces of ground adjoining their huts, in which they 
cultivate tobacco and vegetables for their own use, 
they never appear to wish for independence, but 
are perfectly satisfied with the wages they receive. 
These, though small, are a sure provision, and are 
amply sufficient to supply all their wants. 

Quilichao is the first town on the road which 
rises from the valley to the ancient city of Popayan. 
In the neighbourhood are extensive gold mines, 
which, in time of peace, used to be the source of 
wealth, not only to the owners, but also to the in- 
habitants at large, by means of the commerce in- 
troduced, on their account, into the country. In 
consequence of the war, the slaves and hired peons, 
who used to work these mines, had all been pressed 
into the armies of one party or another. We saw, 
still lingering about the deserted works, some 



210 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

wretchedly poor women and children, clothed in 
strange grotesque dresses, which were evidently 
the remains of the former gaudy clothing they 
used to take a pride in, during the time of their 
prosperity, when the mines were worked* They 
all wore on their heads caps of a conical shape, 
striped with various colours ; and had the appear- 
ance of some unearthly heings, as they issued, cow- 
ering and dejectedly, from their miserahle hovels, 
built in the deep eat^savations, from which the sand 
containing gold had been dug. Some of them pro- 
duced vultures' quills, filled with small quantities of 
gold grain, which they had collected ; and bartered 
it, with the soldiers, for the heads and offal of the 
bullocks slaughtered for the army. The soil ap- 
pears like a coarse red ochre ; and contains, here 
and there, veins of a heavy black sand, in whioh 
the gold grain is found. 

A Spanish shopkeeper who lived in Cali, and had 
made a rapid fortune, from a very humble begin- 
ning, by trading to the mines as a merca-chifle^ or 
pedlar, stated, that during the time they were in 
full work, the profits derived from selling trifling 
articles to the miners was very great. Their pay 
being good, and perquisites better, they would give 
whatever exorbitant price was demanded, for any 
article to which they took a fancy. The travelling 
merchants had, also, opportunities of obtaining gold 
grain from them, which they sold at a very low rate; 
for it was, of course, in most instances, surrepti- 
tiously obtained. 

The army remained some weeks in Quilichao, 
before marching against Popayan ; and this time 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 211 

* 

was chiefly employed in drilling the recruits, which 
had been obtained from the towns in the valley. 
Desertion became so common here, that a perma- 
nent court-martial was appointed in general orders, 
to be in readiness to assemble at a moment's 
warning. As Gen. Valdez wished one foreign 
o£Gicer, at least, to be a member of this court, he 
directed the adjutant-general to insert my name 
in the list of vocales, among which no other Eu- 
ropean sat. Executions soon became frequent 
occurrences ; for, by the Spanish articles of war, 
which regulated our courts-martial, death was the 
inevitable punishment for desertion, when on a 
campaign, and, more especially, when near the 
enemy. The only favour that Valdez used ever 
to extend to the prisoners, when found guilty, was, 
if there were more than one sentenced to death at 
the same time, to allow them to throw dice for 
their lives ; one or more, as he happened to be in a 
merciful humour, of those who threw the highest, 
escaping the fate of their companions. On one 
occasion, two twin brothers, belonging to the Ney- 
vas, of the name of Florez, who had been sentenced 
to death for desertion, threw against each other, for 
their lives, on a drum-head. They were both in- 
capable, from agitation, of holding the dice-box ; 
but their padnnos, or officers who conducted their 
defence, threw for them ; and it is remarkable, that 
twice following the numbers were equal. The 
court, at which Mirez presided, then interfered; and 
obtained, though with difficulty, a pardon for both 
from Valdez. 

The farms and plantations on the road from 



213 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Quilichao to Popayan, had been entirely rained by 
the effects of the war. The army was at one time 
halted near the river Ovejas, on a large estate, 
which appeared to have been once well coltirated, 
judging from the number of deserted peons* cot- 
tages that were still standing on it. There was, 
at that time, scarcely any trace of tillage. The 
fields were overgrown with the rapid vegetation of 
weeds ; and the chapel, and principal dwelling- 
house, were both in ruins. A few of us had taken 
up our quarters in an outhouse, in which we pro- 
posed to sleep ; and we were joined by a stranger, 
who was following the army, and appeared to know 
a good deal of the country through which we were 
marching. On our enquiring, in the course of 
conversation, to whom this fine estate belonged, we 
were surprised to learn that it was his property, 
but that he had lost both slaves and peons, in the 
course of the war. Although owner of such a / 
valuable estate, he was actually in want ; for it was \ 
impossible for him to meet with a purchaser, in 
those unsettled times, and no one would advance a ; 
dollar on landed security. This, though a distress- 
ing case, was by no means uncommon at this period. 
Those land-owners, whose estates were in the hands 
of the enemy, thought themselves fortunate; as 
they had at least the chance, on a change of affurs, 
of receiving them back in a state of cultivation. 

The road to Popayan is hilly, and, in some places, 
passes through woods of a species of Peruvian bark, 
which is an evergreen, and gives the country a 
sombre appearance. On approaching the city, by 
the road to Puraz^, there is a good stone bridge of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRriSES* 213 

five arches, over the river Calica, which is here very 
rocky and rapid. On every side are seen deserted 
Qnintas, all of which, though once highly ornamen- 
ted, tell the same sad tale, of war having put a 
stop to the festive meetings, that were wont to en- 
liven them. There is something peculiarly sad in 
the appearance of a mined pleasure-house. The 
wild luxuriance of flowers, and unpruned ornamen- 
tal shrubs, remind us forcibly of the former scenes 
of gaiety and happiness, so rudely banished by 
civil commotions. 

At the bridge, the army tras detained for a short 
time, by a party of the enemy, who apparently 
could have had no serious intention of defending it; 
for they fled after a short skirmish with the batta- 
lion of Neyva, and neglected even to bar the gates 
behind them. Calzada immediately evacuated the 
city, and retired into the province of Patia, with- 
out a struggle. VaJdez, however, ordered the army 
to bivouac on the opposite side of the Caiica ; and 
would permit none except himself, his stafi^, and his 
escort, to enter the city for three days. Mean- 
while, he filled his coffers with plate and contribu- 
tions ; and indulged, without scruple, in every spe- 
cies of excess. 

While in Cali, VaJdez's conduct had been ex- 
tremely incorrect. So addicted was he to gambling, 
that the commissary of the army, (a near relation 
of Bolivar's) openly accused him of having embezz- 
ed the pay, designed for the army, to settle his debts 
of honour at the mante table. Col. M*Intosh was 
so highly incensed at his conduct in general, and 
at a particular instance of it in ordering an English 



214 CAMPAIGNS AKD CRUISES. 

officer, Capt. W. who died of a fever in the hos- 
pital at Cali, to be buried in the sand by the river 
side, that he determined to leave the army under his 
command, and march the Albions back to Bolivar. 
Col. Carvajal, of the Guias, supported him in his 
resolution; and promised the assistance of his 
Lancers, in the event of any opposition being ofiBer- 
ed. When Valdez found Mcintosh to be in earnest, 
(which he at first would not believe) he became as 
abject as he had been before insolent and over- 
bearing. Conscious that his conduct would not 
bear investigation, and dreading Bolivar's un- 
compromising rigour, he wept like a child, and 
offered to give up the command to (ren. Mires, 
who at length succeeded in appeasing Col. Mcintosh's 
just resentment. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 215 



CHAPTER XIIL 



CITY OF POPAYAN. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. CONDE DE VAL- 
ENCIA. WEALTH OF THE INHABITANTS. ^THE RICH 

WIDOW. VOLCANO OF PUHAZE. ^THUNDER STORMS. — 

SCARCITY OF TOBACCO AND SUGAR. INDIAN ANTIQUI- 
TIES. — NARCOTIC HERB. DANTA OR ANIMAL GRANDE. 

SOURCES OF THE ORINOCO, MAGDALENA, AND CAUCA. 
^TRADE WITH THE WILD INDIANS FOR GOLD. — PRO- 
VINCE OF PATIA. — BRIDGE OF MAYO. FOREST OF SAN 

LORENZO. RIVER JUANAMBU. — SINGULAR PHENOME- 
NON NEAR TAMBO PINTADO. VALDEZ DEFEATED AT 

GUACHI-BAMBA. ARRIVAL OF GEN. SUCRE. — ARMIS- 
TICE REVOLUTION AT GUAYAQUIL MARCH FROM CALI 

TO THE COAST OF CHOCO. — 'DESCENT OF THE RAPIDS IN 

CANOES MONTANA OF LAS JUNTAS. PORT OF SAN 

BUENAVENTURA. REACH THE SHORES OF THE PACIFIC 

OCEAN. SUCRE'S ARMY EMBARKS. ISLAND OF GOR- 

GONA. LANDING AT POINT SANTA HELENA. 



PoPAYAN is a venerable ancient city, situated on 
the banks of the river Calica, in a fertile and well 
cultivated plain. In the neighbourhood, is the ex- 
tinguished volcano of Puraz^ ; from which snow is 
constantly brought down on mules to the city, for 
the purpose of cooling water and making ices. We 
felt the vrind that blows from this mountain very 
chiUing ; especially on the out-line pickets of Chune, 
Texar, and Casa-fuerte; although the general 
temperature of the country is warm. 

The city contains several handsome public build- 
ings ; amongst which, the most conspicuous are the 
Bishop's palace, and the Compania, or college of 
Jesuits. This building consists of several spacious 
courts with corridors, and apartments very neatly 



216 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

painted, both above stairs and below. There is 
also a large library, well supplied with books, 
telescopes, and mathematical instruments ; and a 
school room, the walls of which are covered with 
various puntings relative to the sciences, from the 
alphabet, to the figures in Euclid's Elements. The 
cathedral is in an unfinished state ; and the princi* 
pal churches are those of San Francisco, and La 
•Compania. There are two convents of nuns, of 
Nra. Sora del Carmen, and Nra. Sora de la Encar^ 
nacion, both well endowed, and richly ornamented. 
There are also convents of Franciscan, Ag^stin, 
and Dominican friars ; and a tolerable hospital out- 
side the city, on the road leading to tho Puente de 
Caiica. 

In one of the streets, leading from the Plaza to- 
Mrards the Indian village of Chune, is the Casa de 
Mon6da, which was built, at his own expence, by the 
late Conde de Valencia, a native of Popayan, who 
possessed great property in the province; He was 
accused, before the viceroy Zamano, of favouring 
the revolution in New Grenada ; and was shot at 
Bogota, through jealousy of the influence a noble- 
man, so much esteemed as he was in the country, 
might have, were he to join the cause of the patriots. 
This was the more dreaded by Zamano, as the Conde 
had been in France during the revolution at the 
latter end of the last century, and was well known 
to profess liberal principles. 

The inhabitants of this city were, generally 
speaking, very wealthy previous to the war ; but 
have been reduced to comparative poverty, by the 
repeated exactions and contributions imposed by 



CAMPAI^S AND CRUISES. 217 

both parties, as they alternately gained possession 
ci the city. So frequent were the changes of mas- 
ters, abont this time, that the walls in the Plaza 
were placarded, by the soldiers of the two hostile 
armies, in large letters ; each party, as it was obli- 
ged in turn to retreat, leaving some memento of 
its hatred to the other. Some families, as the 
Valencias, where I was quartered, still possessed 
large services of plate, and had almost every utensil 
of silver. 

Among the richest of the inhabitants is a widow 
lady, by name Arboldda, who is generally known 
by the appellation of ^*La Viuda rica,**from the very 
extensive estates, and numerous gold mines, that 
she possesses, and which, previous to the war, used 
to bring her in a revenue that fully justified the 
soubriquet given her. Even after the many losses 
that she had sustained, and heavy contributions 
diat had been exacted from her, she told the patriot 
General Marino, who, on a former campaign, was 
lamenting, in her hearing, the scarcity of balls for 
his field pieces, that rather than he should suffer 
from that deficiency, she would have them cast of 
gold. 

This city is frequently and severely visited by 
thunder storms, which often do great damage to 
the buildingps. While we remained there, the 
diurch of San Francisco was struck by lightning, 
which split the solid masonry from the top of the 
tower to the principal door ; and, at another time, 
a soldier, belonging to the Huzares del Oriente, 
was killed by a flash, in an open spot of ground 
eaJM El £gido, where the troops used to parade, 



218 CAMPAIO'NB AND CRUISES. 

and fireqiient military execations took place. Barlh.- 
quakeSy also^ are often felt; as appears to be 
particalarly the case in countries abounding in 
minerals. We witnessed sereral, while we were 
in the neighbourhood, that were remarkable both 
for violence and duration. One, in particolar, 
which we felt while on the march firom Qoilichao, 
left many extensive fissures in the high road, as 
evidences of its power. We observed that the 
horses and mules, which perceived the approaching 
convulsion sooner than their riders, prepared than- 
selves for it^ by standing still, and stretching out 
their legs. 

When the patriot army arrived at Popayan, we 
found the ladies of that place labouring under a 
species of distress, which would probably appear 
to Europeans ludicrous ; but it was severely felt, 
and long held in remembrance, by the fair Popayan- 
ejas. This was no other than a gpreat scarcity, al- 
most amounting to a total want, of tobacco, that 
had prevailed for a considerable time ; occasioned 
by the impossibility of obtaining it from the valley 
of Catica, while in the possession of the patriots. 
Some idea may be formed of the inveterate habit of 
smoking, that every one here had acquired, (but 
especially the females, from the ladies to 
slaves,) by a ^Eict communicated to us by some 
spectable inhabitants. This was, that during the 
scarcity, they not only searched the corners of their 
houses for ends of cigars, which they had previoualy 
thrown away, but used to send their slaves to look 
in all likely places, especially at the doors of churches, 
for such puchus as had been dropped during more 



CAMPAIONS AND CRUI8E8. 219 

plentiful times. These they med to cot np, and 
make into paper cigariUos. To add to their dig- 
tresBy no sogar was to be procured in the city, and 
the unsettled state of the province o£ Patia had pre- 
Tented any supplies of that very necessary article 
from being forwarded from Quito and Cruayaqnil. 
As the Colombian and Peruvian ladies> — ^more es- 
pecially the nuns and devdtas, — are excessively fond 
of chocohte, they were completely au desespoir for 
something to sweeten that national beverage; 
(which takes its Indian name, ehoco-kUef-^rom the 
neighbouring coast of Ghoc6 where the ceuxkf is ex« 
tensively cultivated.) When they had exhausted 
all the earam^aSf syrups, and conserves of the 
apothecaries' shops, they bethought them of boiling 
dried figs, and used the sweet liquor, thus obtained, 
as a substitute for sugar. 

In the neighbourhood *of the volcano have been 
found various domestic articles, belonging to the 
aborigines of the country, concealed in the ffuacos, 
or ancient tumuli, that are to be seen in most parts 
lathis great continent. These relics consisted of 
utensils of various kinds ; and of arms ; by which 
the sex and rank of the body interred there might 
be ascertained. A very curious collection of these 
antiquities had been made by the Conde de Valen- 
cia, and the Mosqu^ra family, and had been care- 
fully deposited in one of the rooms in the Mint. 
Amongst the rest, were many ornaments of g^ld, 
in imitation of grasshoppers, beetles, and other in- 
sects, as well as of fruit and flowers, in the same 
precious metid. These were an interesting proof 
of the ingenuity exerted by the ancient possessors 

L 2 



220 CAMPAIGNS AND CBUI8E8* 

of the land ; and were inraliiable in the eyes of an 
antiquary, The "Auri sacra fiunes" kowerer,. 
which has possessed the minds of the Spaniards, 
ever since their discovery of a New World, aetnally 
urged them to seize these precious specimens, and 
melt them down, under the stale pretence of the 
exigences of government. Well may the Spani- 
ards be called throughout South America, Los 
GodoSy — ^the Goths ! a name which they have 
richly merited, by this, and innumerable similar in- 
stances of ignorance, rapacity, and devaHtation» tkaX 
have disgraced them in that part of the world. 

A plant is found in the woods, near Popayan, ae- 
cording to the testimony of many very intelligent in- 
habitants, possessing extraordinarily strong narcotie 
qualities. If a leaf of it be laid between the fingers 
or toes of a person, while sleeping, it is said that he 
will not awake until it is removed. A branch of it, 
also, if thrown on a snake that is found coiled up, 
will effectually stupify it, so that it may be handled 
with perfect safety. The white inhabitants of the 
country use every endeavour to root out this plant, 
wherever it is found; for several fatal instances 
have occurred, of slaves revenging themselves on 
their masters by its means. They have been known 
to conceal, under their master's pillow, snakes thiit 
they had previously stupified by means of this hearh ; 
and the reptiles, on recovering, have bit those by 
whom they were first disturbed. 
* Among the various wild animals to be found be* 
^yond the remote hills in the neighbourhood, the 
/rarest, and least known by Europeans, is the damia^ 
\oT animal grande. This is the largest indigenow 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 221 

quadruped of S* America ; and is never to be met 
with near the haunts of men. It always lurks 
in the thickest and most solitary forests ; pi e- 
ferring those which are near a plentiful supply of 
water. Though herbivorous, it is solitary in its 
habits, and is rapidly becoming scarce, as population 
increases. It is about the size of a large and very 
corpulent mule; having legs short in proportion 
to the length of its body. Notwithstanding this 
apparent clumsiness, it runs with great rapidity. 
Its neck is short, nose long, and eyes remarkably 
small ; it is also very short sighted. Although its 
ean are small, in proportion to its head, its hearing 
is very acute. Its sense of smelling is also so good, 
that it immediately detects the presence of an in- 
tmder^ unless he approaches against the wind. On 
getting sight of the hunter, the danta rushes im- 
petuously at him, with the intention of trampling 
him under its feet, which are large, and cloven like 
those of a hog. Its shortness of vision, fortunately, 
renders it a very easy matter to evade this attack, 
by springing suddenly to one side. The skin, 
which is covered with short hair, of a dark grey 
coloar^ makes, when properly dressed, a good soft 
leaitter, nearly resembling buck-skin in texture, 
whieh is much used by the mountaineers for breeches 
and jerkins, and by miners for caps and aprons. 
It b also cut into long slender thongs, for the 
purpose of making hampers, by the Indians who 
inliabit the hilly country between Peru and Chile. 
In these &», as they are called, they pack the fish 
wUcfa they catch in the lagoons of the Entre- Andes, 
tad carry them for sale down to Copiapd, Huasco, 

L 3 



222 CAMPAIGN'S AND CRUISES. 

and other parts of the coast of Chile, bordering on 
the desert of Atacdma. 

While we were quartered in this city, young 
Mosqtiera invited a few of us to accompany him in 
chase of a danta, that had been seen by his peons in 
the mountains beyond the volcano of Purase. We 
slept at the plantation of a kinsman of his, near the 
Indian village of Cocontico ; and setting out before 
day break, were guided to the forest quebrada, 
where our intended game had been last seen. We 
found him grazing, but were near catchinff a tartar; 
for he perceived us, almost as soon as the peonv 
saw him, and gallopped towards us with such head-; 
long impetuosity, as scarcely gave us time to shelter 
ourselves behind the trees. He received three 
musket balls, with no apparent efFect ; and took to 
the woods, where we lost him. 

Within a few days march of Popayan, is a small 
village called El Traplchi, situated in a very un- 
frequented part of Patia, among the hills. Netr 
it is a lofty mountain, from which it is confidently 
asserted that the rivers Orinoco, M agdalena, and 
Caiica derive their sources. The old Ptidre 
Cura of the village, an European of the Fran- 
ciscan order of friars, who had resided there many 
years, was positive as to the truth of this report. 
He has formerly, he assured us, repeatedly traversed 
the mountain, near the summit of which he had 
seen three separate sources of torrents, running 
down ravines lying in different directions; and 
these, he was informed by his Indian guides, are 
the fountain heads of those great rivers. 

The vallies, at the back of the hills bordering Pa- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISE& 223 

tia, are inliabited by a tribe of warrior Indians, who 
are currently reported to be cannibals. They are 
invariably hostile to strangers ; and refuse to ad- 
mit of any intercourse with them. The Padre, 
nerertheless, whose light grey robes they probably 
conceived to be meant as an emblem of peace, had 
formeily approached their habitations, for the pur- 
pose of trading with them for gold. He described 
the tn^e to be conducted with the following pre- 
caotionsy on both sides. Having disposed to the 
best advantage, on a smooth spot of ground, such 
articles as he had brought for sale, — which were 
generally coarse stuffs, the manufacture of his pa- 
rishioners, — he used to retire to a distance. The 
Indians would then advance, and lay down on each 
sqrarate article, as much gold grain as they consi- 
dered a sufficient price. If, on his return, he was 
satisfied with what was thus offered, he removed 
the gold^ and left the goods for the purchaser. If 
odierwisey he left it, and retired again ; when his 
cBStomers generally added some more gold to their 
first offer. Not a word passed between the parties 
ooBoemed ; but the dealings were conducted by 
these uncivilized beings with the most scrupulous 
honesty. The gold, that was procured from these 
Indians, was not of that kind commonly collected 
from sand. It was, for the most part, in small no. 
doles, of different sizes and shapes. These are called 
by the mnerspapttas, and are frequently discovered 
on splitting a certain greyish stone, found on, and 
near the surface, in some mining districts. 

The road to Quito passes through the country 
of the Patidnos, a nation of civilized Indians, who 



224 CAMPAIGNS AND CROISKS. 

have been always inveterate enemies to the patriots. 
From their activity, and thorough knowledge of 
the country, they are very capable of annoying an 
army passing through it, both on the advance and 
retreat, by constantly hanging on the rear, and 
taking every favourable opportunity of catting off 
stragglers. These Indians used to venture into 
Popayan, after nightfall^ even while that city was 
occupied by the patriot troops; and sometimet 
have been known to succeed in carrying away 
officers, whom they happened to meet in A 
streets, returning late and unaccompanied to their 
quarters. 

During our march through Patia, we came to 
the river Mayo, an impetuous torrent, running OTer 
a rocky bottom, with precipitous banks, and scarcely 
jn any part fordable. There was a narrow and rmn- 
ous stone bridge across it, with barely room fiir 
three men to pass abreast. The approach to it 
was through a thick wood, in which many of the 
trees had been purposely cut down by the royalist 
army, to form abbcUis, as impediments to onr ad- 
vance. On the opposite side of the river, a oob- 
siderable party of the enemy was drawn up, as if 
determined to dispute the passage ; and, ontheUD 
immediately over it, a large force was likewise 
posted. The GodoSf nevertheless, scarcely at- 
tempted to defend their position, although a strong 
one ; but, on the approach of the grenadier coa* 
pany of the Albions, which furnished the advance 
guard during the whole of this campaign, they 
retreated, after firing a few shots, and suffered the 
bridge to be carried, with very little opposition. 



CAJIPAJ0K8 AND CBUISES. 225 

The difficulties of the march increased progres- 
uveLj, as we approached the city of Pasto ; parti- 
cahrly in passing through the Montana de San 
Lorenxoy the roads through which were to the full 
as bad as any we had yet experienced, since lear- 
ing BogotiL This ridge of mountains is covered 
with a thick forest ; and is full of springs of water, 
which rrader the ground so marshy, that the rear 
guard and powder ^d not join the main body, 
until the day after it had passed through. On the 
uia of the forest, near the path leading down to the 
small village of San Lorenzo, the ground has been 
•o extensively undermined by those springs, that a 
landslip, called here a volcatiy of more than two 
miles in length, had been caused by a recent earth- 
quake* This ravine has assumed a most singular 
appearance. In some places, the forest trees have 
descended into the valley in an upright position, 
and were flourishing on the summits and sides of 
numerous hillocks, which had evidently been thrown 
np wherever the descending soil had met with 
obstacles. The greater number have been over- 
thrown, and show nothing but their roots and 
branches above the debris, which lies in irregular 
ridges, like the waves of the sea, and has over- 
whelmed several chacras, or Indian plantations, 
that unfortunately lay in the way of the mighty 
ruin. 

Tlie rivers, on the Choc6 side of this ridge, all 
empty themselves into the Pacific Ocean, in the 
neighbourhood of Barbacoas, Tumdco, and Esme- 
raldas. By far the most formidable obstacle oppc 
sed to an invading army, on this road, is the rifi 



226 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

• 

Juanambii. ^^ This torreDt is well known in the 
history of the revolutionary war, as haying been 
repeatedly the scene of obstinate straggles between 
the patriots on one hand, and royalists, assisted by 
the Pastuzos on the other. These Indians, who 
are natives of the neighbouring city of Pasto, and 
its surrounding villages, have been always remark- 
able for their enthusiastic attachment to the roy- 
alist cause, and their deadly enmity to the patriots. 
The Juanambii is at all times very dangerous to 
be forded, on account of its great depth and rapi- 
dity. It is also peculiarly subject to sudden floods; 
and, as its course is through a succession of ravines, 
without intervening vallies, where a portion of it^ 
superfluous waters might find a temporary vent, any 
heavy and continued shower of rain falling in the 
mountains, through which it rushes to the sea, sweIL» 
it, in a few minutes, to so impetuous a torrent, as to 
be totally impassable. This occurrence has, in 
some instances, separated one part of an army that 
had crossed, from the other, to the great danger 
and inconvenience of both : as in the case of Geo. 
Naririo, who was defeated and taken prisoner here, 
in consequence of this very singularity attending 
the river. 

The Pastuzos had prepared for our receptioDi 
by strengthening this, their natural 'bulwark, with 
trenches and breast- works for musquetry, opposite 
the only practicable pass, and for a considerable 
distance along the ridge of a mountain, which rises 
abruptly on the left side of it. They annoyed our 
array greatly, from behind these, with perfect im- 
punity ; for our troops were obliged to cross the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRnsi^tS. 227 

torrent slowly and cautiously ; and were exposed, 
the whole time, to a galling fire, without a pos- 
sibility of returning it effectually. The greater 
part of the infantry, not having strength to ford it, 
were carried across behind the cavalry. We suc- 
ceeded, however, in forcing the position, with 
comparatively little loss ; and soon took possession 
of the keights, which the enemy did not long 
attempt to defend. 

On a mountain, near the village of Tambo Pin- 
tido, where we bivouacked the day after passing 
the river Juanambii, we saw very distinctly, at 
sun-rise, gigantic shadows of ourselves, which were 
thrown by the sun on the clouds, as they slowly 
ascended out of the vallies beneath. It was obser- 
ved, at the same time, that each individual- saw his 
own shadow only, and not that of any other. This 
phenomenon, which our Indian comrades could by 
no means comprehend, and had always been taught 
to consider as an actual vision of the Vulto, or evil 
genius of the Cordillera, made a great and unfa- 
vourable impression on their minds, as to the result 
of the battle, which we all knew was impending. 
They were, unfortunately, confirmed in their 
superstitious forebodings, by the total defeat we so 
shortly after experienced. 

The morning after leaving Tambo Pintddo, we 
were at length convinced that the Spaniards had 
no intention of surrendering the city of Paste, like 
that of Popayan, without a struggle for it, but 
that they had determined to make a stand. This 
they showed us plainly, by the constant and obsti- 
nate skirmishing they kept up, from day-break 



228 CAMPMONS AND CAUIUB. 

until mid-day, with our advanced guard. Aoeord- 
ingly, when we had driven in their light troops, 
and obtained a distant view of the dty, we taw 
Calzida's whole army drawn up ready to 'recdlTe 
uis, on a small plain, named by the Indians Guaehi^ 
bamba, or " Thefidd qf bloody** probably so called 
from some former battle in the same place. It wasi 
at all events, an ominous name, and proVed, this . 
day, not to have been misapplied. The position of 
the enemy was in a maiz field, fronting a narrow 
winding defile, through the gorge of whidi we 
could scarcely advance two deep, while they com- 
pletely enfiladed it by a concentrated fire from the 
whole of their force, drawn up in a semicircle, and 
protected in front by a trench and breastwork. 
Their flanks rested on a marsh, and an impenetra- 
ble copse. As our infantry was on the point of 
advancing to the attack, Valdez, most unaccount- 
ably, ordered the cavalry to the front; blocking up 
the defile by this means, and exposing the lancers 
to a fire which they could not return, while they ' 
were unable to cross the trench, or climb over the 
breast-work. After losing many of their number, 
and, among the rest, that staunch friend to the 
English, Col. Carbajal, of the Guias, they retreated 
over the infantry, which was thus thrown into 
confusion, and the day was irrecoverably lost 
Valdez, who was one of the first to leave the 
ground, conducted the retreat with such shameful 
precipitation, as to lose the whole of the baggage 
and powder. The following day, though un- 
pursued, except by a few parties of Indians, blow- 
conch»shells and cows*-horns along the hills, he 



f3JlllPAION8 AND CRUISfiS. 229 

re-crossed th€ijrtianamb&, and scarcely halted in his 
panic flight, until he had reached the river Mayo. 
We were here met by Gen* Antonio Jose Sncre, 
who had been recently promoted by Boliyar to the 
rank ci Brigadier, and sent to supersede Valdes 
in the command of the army. He was also bearer 
of despatches, notifying the armistice that had jost 
been coJidnded, for six months, between Boliyar 
and Morillo ; and would have joined us in time to 
prevent the last battle from taking place, had he 
not been purposely misinformed by his Patian 
guides, as to the route Valdez had taken. He had 
forwarded an authentic copy of the armistice to 
Paste ; but, as we afterwards ascertained, the Spa- 
ni^ general was so well satisfied with his position, 
that he affected to believe that we had purposely 
broken the truce. 

Cren. Sucre, who was a native of Guayana, was 
much of Bolivar's size and make. In his face, 
which was slightly pitted with the small-pox, he 
was much fairer ; and he did not, then, wear mus- 
tachios. His features were pleasing, and his 
manners were mild ; but, in the early part of his 
military career, at least, there was nothing striking 
in his appearance ; — ^nothing that pointed him out 
as the future victor of Ayacucho. However, in 
this retreat, which was his coup (Tessaiy he ma- 
noeuvred with considerable skill, and conducted us 
in safety to Popayan, through a country where 
provisions were scarce, and which was occupied by 
several strong guerillas, commanded by Godo 
caudilloSy who paid no respect to the armistice. 
At this period, the standard of Independence was 



230 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

hoisted by the city of Guayaqail,^ on the coast of 
the Pacific, the inhabitants of that city having been 
encouraged to this step, by the successes of the pa- 
triot Genera] San Martin, against the royalists in 
lower Peru. The squadron of the republic of Chi- 
le, commanded by Vice Admiral Lord €k>ch- 
rane, rode triumphant in the South Pacific, in which 
no hostile ship then shewed a pennant, except the 
Spanish frigates LaPrueba, and LaVengansa. These 
were mere fugitives, concealing themselves in the 
ports on the coast of Guatemala and Mexico ; for 
they were neither of force to cope with the ChiUno 
fieet, nor had they men, stores, nor provisions suffi- 
cient to enable them to return to Europe, or even 
to make their escape to the Manila. The Goajra- 
quileiios, therefore, considered themselves, perfectly 
secure from any interruption by sea ; and had do 
cause to dread any attacks by land, for the Spanish 
army was sufficiently employed in defending the 
roads to Quito, through Patia from Popayan, and 
through Ciienca from Truxillo. 

Bolivar, on being apprised of this event, deter- 
mined on sending a force by sea to Guayaquil ; for 
the purpose either of co-operating with the new 
republic against the common enemy, or of advanc- 
ing from thence, unassisted, towards Quito, by the 
road of Chimborazo and Pichincha. 

The command of this expedition was given to 
Sucre. On his return, with the defeated army, to 
Popayan, he delivered it up to Gen. Torres, lately 
arrived there with the regiment of Bogota, and 
some other troops from Santa F^. Sucre then 
proceeded to Cali, where a new corps had been 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 231 

raised in the yalley of Caoca, conmsting chiefly of 
blade recmitS) and called El Balallon de Santander, 
in compliment to the Vice-President of Colombia. 
Col. Mcintosh, of the Albions, was appointed to 
discipline this regiment, with the assistance of four 
of his i^cers, ^ whom he selected to take with 
him from Popayan. Sucre left Call with this 
corps, for the port of San Buenaventura on the 
coast of Chocd. where he proposed to embark for 
Gruajraqnil. 

The road, or rather track, from the valley of 
Caiica, to the village of Las Juntas, (so called from 
two mountain torrents that meet there,) though 
not long, is excessively bad. The general mode of 
travelling, through the Montana del Pi^iagayo, and 
the hilly pass of Las Ojas, is on the shoulders of 
ehasquisy or carriers. The recruits were much 
fatigued by this journey ; during which the narrow- 
ness of the paths, and thickness of the underwood, 
rendered it difficult to detect them in their frequent 
attempts at desertion, in which they consequently 
often succeeded, They had learned that they were 
to be embarked, on arriving at San Buenaventura ; 
and entertained such a horror of a sea voyage, that 
they were constantly endeavouring to escape. It, 
therefore, became necessary to order the few old 
soldiers, that were distributed into each company, 
to load their pieces with ball, in presence of the 
recruits : and directions were given them, to shoot 
the first that should attempt to leave the line of 
march. 

From La Juntas, canoes are employed to con- 
vey travellers and baggage down the mountain 



2S2 CAMPAIGNS AKD CRtJtSBS. 

torrent, by a most singular mode of navigadon. 
These canoes are small, flat-bottomed, and framed 
of a light wood ; having just room for one traveller, 
or at most two, and a trunk. The passengers are 
seated in the bottom of the canoe, on mats ; and 
are obliged to remain perfectly steady, for the light 
bark descends a succession of rapids and water-falls, 
which would, assuredly, not be considered navigable, 
in any other part of the world. Each csnoe is 
managed by two Indians, who stand upright at the 
stem and stem, with poles to steer clear of the 
rocks ; paddles being inapplicable to this purpose, 
on account of the rapidity of the stream. These 
men are constantly employed in baling out the 
water that splashes in, as the canoe bounds over 
the frequent rapids ; and this they contrive to do 
with one foot, surprizingly quick, while both their 
hands are employed with the pole. Should this 
break or slip, in booming o£F the canoe from the 
rock, while descending a fall, the Indian must 
necessarily lose his balance ; and, in all probability, 
overset the canoe. They are, however, so very 
dexterous and active, that accidents rarely happen ; 
except when they become intoxicated, which they 
will always contrive to be, as often as they can 
procure aguardiente. 

In ascending this river, they also use poles to 
push the canoes along ; and, where it is shallow, 
they get into the water, and drag them against the 
stream. To facilitate the ascent, they have con- 
trived, with great labour, to make small canals in 
most bad passes, by removing the rocks and large 
stones in the shallows, for a considerable distance, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 233 

^nd thus leaTiog a channel sufficiently broad for 
the canoe to pass. These canals are always de- 
stroyed by the floods in the winter, daring which 
time, the Indians can neither venture up, nor down 
tihe river ; for the torrent would then be too im- 
petooos for vessels of any description. They con- 
atroct light huts, in the centre of the canoes, arched 
over with branches of the bejuco, and thatched with 
wild plantain leaves. Under these the passengers 
and merchandize are secure from the dashing of the 
water. 

Our troops, of course, could not be conveyed 
down in this manner, for want of a sufficient num- 
ber of canoes. We were, therefore, obliged to 
march through the forest bordering the torrent, 
until we reached the level country, where the river 
becomes smoother and deeper. At Las Bodegas, 
we were to embark in bunqites, or large canoes, 
that hold thirty or forty men each ; having the sides 
raised by means of planks, sewed together at the 
edges with twine made of twisted bark, and thongs 
of raw hide. 

To reach the place of embarkation, we marched 
for several days through a trackless wilderness, 
which had evidently never been traversed before ; 
for our guides were constantly employed in cutting 
a path, with their machetesy or long knives. Our 
pn^ess was repeatedly interrupted by abrupt hills, 
which it was necessary to pass. These were nearly 
perpendicular, particularly one called La Vivora, 
and could only be surmounted by climbing from 
tree to tree, assisted by the roots and hanging 
bejucos ; each man handing his musket to another 



234 CAMPAtONS AND CRCI8ES. 

before raising himself. This tedious and Imborions 
way of proceeding was, occasionally, varied by 
deep morasses, through which we were obliged to 
scramble, and by wading the torrent repeatedly 
from point to point. It was necessary, on theM 
occasions, to form a double chain of the troopa» 
who held fast by each others hands. Without this 
precaution, the least stumble would have prored 
fatal to men so fatigued with marching as to be 
incapable of the exertion necessary for recoTerii^ 
themselves. It is also well known, to all who have 
ever forded a broad and rapid stream, that it is apt 
to occasion great giddiness, in those who are un- 
used to it. By using this precaution, however, 
we escaped without loss of lires ; but not witkoat 
losing several muskets and havresacks, which were 
generally abandoned by the recruits, on getting a 
faU. 

This montana was greatly infested by snakes, 
which darted up every moment amongst ns, from 
under the decayed trunks of trees ; also by multi- 
tudes of mosquitos, centipedes, scorpions, &c 
The most tormenting of this host of savandijas^ 
were the large black ants, which swarm in the old 
wood of the fallen trees, and whose bite is ex- 
cessively painful. As we were all under the necessity 
of proceeding barefoot, it being impossible to wear 
either boots or shoes through the mud and water, 
we were exposed, not only to the attacks of these 
insects, but also to thorns and splinters, which 
lamed many of the men. Our bivouacs, at night, 
were far from affording us refreshing rest ; for the 
continual rain, and the dampness of the fuel, did 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 235 

not even allow us the consolation of a cheerful fire 
to sit round, aft«r the fatigues of the day. We 
were, therefore, obliged to eat our rations of char- 
qui, without the least preparation by cooking ; and 
sleep uncomfortably enough, leaning against trees, 
for we found the mountain breeze too chilly for us 
to lie down on such marshy ground. We had, 
however, the advantage of being in some degree 
protected from the mosquitos, from the smoke that 
rose from the half -kindled wood*. 

We at length arrived at Las Bodegas, where we 
found the bunques in readiness to receive us ; and 
were not a little pleased at the relief they afford- 
ed, after our unpleasant march. The wqods, at 
this part of the river, are inhabited by a wild 
looking tribe of Indians, who subsist entirely on 
the fish they catch. The females have a sin- 
gdar ornament, which appears to be peculiar to 
those of this tribe. It consists of a plate of silver, 
tin, or copper, cut in the shape of a crescent, about 
four inches in diameter, and worn in the gristle 
between the nostrils, which is pierced for that pur- 
pose. The men have the lobes of both ears opened, 
wide enough to admit the middle finger ; and wear 
in them round pieces of hard white wood, or polish- 
ed bone, eight or nine inches long, and in shape 
resembling a small drum-stick. 

These wilds extend to the towns of CitarA and 
Novita^, which, though containing a large population, 
were then scarcely known beyond the limits of their 
immediate neighbourhood. The forests are infested 
by large herds of the pecariy or wild hog, which 
render it dangerous for travellers to pass through 



236 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

tbem, unless well foined, and m strong parties ; for 
these animals are exceedingly fierce and namerons ; 
will boldly attack any small number of men ; and 
are irritated, rather than alarmed, when any of the 
herd are killed or wounded. They are dreaded, 
eren by the panther, which is also an inhabitant of 
the thick woods of Choc6. Monkies of every des- 
cription, and sloths, are frequently seen in the 
trees ; and the javaUy capaiharra, and great ant- 
eater, range unmolested in the swamps. 

The town of San Buenaventura, consists merely 
of the 6ovemor*s house, and a few wretched bnts, 
built on posts. This is a customary precaution 
through the whole of €hoc6, against the intmnon 
of panthers and snakes, as well as on account of the 
swampy nature of the soil. No provisions were to 
be obtained here ; idthough this is the only part that 
supplies the valley of Cauca» and Popayan, with 
merchandize, and has generally some foreign ves- 
sels, besides coasters, anchored there. Sucre, how- 
ever had previously sent forward sufficient radons 
to supply the troops until they embarked. 

We enjoyed, from this place, the first view of the 
Pacific Ocean, after our tedious march over the 
broadest part of the continent. The sight of the 
sea gladdened us foreigners, like the face of a long 
lost friend, having been for such a length of time in- 
land travellers. It even made us forget, for the mo- 
ment, how many weary leagues of its blue surface lay 
between us and England. The Pacific is classic 
ground (if the expression may be allowed,) ; and 
reminded us involuntarily of the exploits of Anson, 
and others of the early navigators in these seas ; as 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRnSiS. 237 

also of the Buccaneers, who had frequented the 
very harhonr where we now were. 

Two armed merchant ships, under English col- 
ours, were lying at anchor in the harhour ; — the 
Ehnperor Alexander, and the Anna brig; — the 
former of which Sucre hired to conrey us to Guaya* 
qoil. The passage was very tedious ; for the trade 
winds in the Pacific, which blow from the South- 
ward the greater part of the year, were against us ; 
so that we made very little daily progress. Besides 
this, we met with frequent calms, a serious evil 
while sailing along the sultry coast of Chocd, part 
of which is exactly under the Equinoctial line. 

The number of troops, that had been crowded in 
the small corvette, and the uncertain length of the 
passages made to windward in these seas, where 
calms may always be expected, and where the cur- 
rent was against us, obliged Capt. Ramsay, who 
commanded the ship, to put every one on board, 
without exception even of Sucre, on short allowance 
of water. A small wine-bottle full was allowed to 
each per day ; and part of this was deducted for 
cooking. This scanty supply distressed us all great- 
ly ; but more particularly the poor recruits, who 
were obliged to drink their allowance of water at 
the time of receiving it, as they had no canteens, 
nor any vessel to keep it in, and consequently had 
to wait until the next day, before they could obtain 
any more. These men had in all probability, never 
before in their lives, been restricted in the use of 
water; and the privation was now felt by them 
widi additional severity, as all the provisions that 
were served out were salted, which, being a novelty 



238 CAMPAIGNS AMD CRUISES. 

to theni) greatly increased their thirst. Among 
several expedients, which they had recourse to, for 
the purpose of obtaining more water than their al- 
lowance, some of them cut off the holster-pipes of 
Col. FreidenthaFs saddle, which hung in the steer- 
age, and were detected letting them down, with 
rope yams, through the bung-holes of the casks in 
the hold. Another concealed his comrade's death, 
for three days, until the shockingly offensive smell 
betrayed his secret, for the purpose of drawing the 
dead man's ration of water. 

Not far from San Buenaventura, we passed the 
well wooded island of Gorg6na, on which plantuns 
and other fruit trees grow in abundance. It was 
formerly inhabited by a few families. They have, 
however, been compelled to desert it, and remove 
to Tumdco on the main land, on account of the num- 
bers of rattle-snakes and other venomous reptiles, 
besides musquitos, which swarm there. 

After touching at Atacames and Barbacoas, small 
ports on the coast of Chocd, for water and plantains, 
we came to an anchor at the bay of Santa Helena 
where we landed, to the great joy of us all ; indeed 
it was just in time to avoid a dangerous sicknessi 
which prevails on this coast, and had already begun 
to threaten us. Had it gained ground, it would 
have proved most destructive to the troops; for 
they were so crowded on deck and below, that 
several, both of them, and of the English sailors 
liad already died. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 239 



CHAPTER XIV. 



CATAMARAKS. SALT WORKS. MINERAL TAR SPRING. — 

INDIAN VILLAGE OF SANTA HELENA. TOTAL ABSENCE OF 

RAIN. — TOWN OFELMORRO. BALZAS. — RIVER OF GUAY- 
AQUIL. — DESCRIPIION OF THE CITY. CIVDAD VIEJA 

AND CUIDAD NUEVA. PUBLIC BATHING PLACE. CHIM- 

BORAZO9 — ERUPTION OF COTOPAXI. REINFORCEMEKT 

FROM COLOMBIA. — LOPEZ.S CONSPIRACY. — INSURREC- 
TION OF THE GUN-BOATS. BOLIVAR ARRIVES. LORD 

COCHRANE AND THE SQUADRON. — AUTHOR JOINS THE 
SERVICE OF CHILE. 



The bay of Santa Helena is seldom touched at by 
vessels of any size, being quite open to the Ocean ; 
in consequence of which, there is at all times so 
heavy a surf on the beach, as to render it unsafe for 
boats to land. They employ here, for that purpose, 
a land of catamarans called halzdSy made of logs of a 
very light wood, lashed together. These are provided 
with high seats for the passengers, under which the 
surf breaks harmlessly, and leaves the rafts dry on 
the land. There is only one house, on the point of 
land which gives a name to this bay ; but the road- 
stead is frequented by bunqueSf and a sort of large 
launches called chatas, that come from Tumbez, 
Pa^9 and other parts of the coast, to purchase salt. 
witich is collected here in considerable quantities 
On particularly high tides, accompanied by heavy 
g^es of wind, the sea fills a small lagoon in the cen- 
tre of the point of land. This water, being evapo- 
rated before the recurrence of the next high tide, by 
the rays of a vertical sun^ leaves a thick encrustation 



i 



240 CAMPAIGNS AKD CRUISES. 

on the surface of the gronnd. The salt thns pro- 
cured, is cut into square pieces, of half a quintal 
each, and sold, by the natives, without any fiurther 
preparation. 

There is also, about a mile from the landing place 
on the road to the village, a mineral-tar spring, 
which is received into a large tank, or reservoir, dng 
for this purpose in the ground. It is produced in 
such plenty, that it constantly overflows, gd runs 
into the sea. This substance is much soiKt after, 
by the owners of the small country coasting vessels, 
and by fishermen, on account of its cheapness, and, 
the difficulty of procuring vegetable tar. The for- 
mer, however, is said to burn hempen rigging, and 
to decay it in a short time. A spring of this bitu- 
men rises from the bottom of the sea, on the coast 
of Peru, nearly in the latitude of Guambacho, The 
sea, for many leagues round, is covered with patches 
of the tar ; and has an oily appearance on the sur- 
face, with varying colours, of exactly the same kind 
as are seen when common tar is dropped into the 
water. 

A small shell-flsh, called caracolillo de tenir by 
the Indians, is found adhering closely to the rocks 
of Punto Sta. Helena. It is about the si^e of a 
hazel nut ; and forms, when bruised and boiled, a 
very brilliant purple dye, much used by the natives 
for staining wool and cotton. 

The unhealthiness of the season (being the mid- 
dle of June) in Guayaquil, and, as it was whispered, 
a demonstration of jealousy on the part of the new 
government, at the unsolicited arrival of Colombian 
troops in their neighbourhood, determined Sucre to 



CAMPAIGNS ^IND CRUISES. 241 

remain, for some time, in the towns of Santa Helena 
and El Morro, previous to proceeding to the capital. 

The first of these is huilt completely in the In- 
dian style ; every house being detached from the 
rest, hut regularly ranged along wide streets, which 
run parallel to the sides of a spacious square, in the 
centre of which the church stands. The streets are 
covered with gravel, and kept very clean. The 
houses are large and airy. All are built of bambu, 
and are supported on high posts, with ladders made 
of notched beams, to climb up by to the upper 
rooms, which are floored with split cane, and thatched 
with palm leaves. The inhabitants are all Indians, 
and are remarkably fond of dancing in the streets, 
the greater part of every night, to their national 
tunes. This favourite amusement they are enabled 
to indulge in throughout the year ; for rain has 
never been known to fall at Santa Helena ; although 
in different parts of the neighbourhood, and parti- 
cularly at Guayaquil, the annual agua-cerros are 
very heavy. 

The town of El Morro, so called from a large 
high rock standing near it, which is a remarkable 
object in this low sandy country, is also built in the 
Indian style. Being situated near a creek that runs 
into the river Guayaquil, it is plentifully supplied 
with every necessary article, and has several good 
shops and pulperias, ^^ In both these towns water 
ig scarce, on account of the absence of rains, and is 
brought in barrels, on mules, from a distance of 
some miles. The inhabitants of El Morro, in par- 
ticular, have been obliged, in very dry seasons, 
to emigrate to the island of PunA, and even to 
Guayaquil. m 



242 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Towards the end of June, the troops were em* 
barked iii large balzas, and proceeded up the riTer 
to the capital. These rafts are bailt of the wood 
that has been already mentioned, in describing the 
catamarans. It grows in abundance between the 
neighbouring sea coast, and the mountains beyond 
Xipix^pa, ^ It is as buoyant as cork, and resembles 
the pith of elder ; but is of a much finer, and more 
fibrous substance. About twelve or fourteen trunks 
of these trees, having the bark stripped o£P, from 
forty to fifty feet in length, and eighteen inches in 
diameter, are secured, laterally, with cross pieces of 
a harder wood, fastened to each log by thongs of 
raw hide, or bejuco. On this frame is raised a hut, 
either covered with bullocks' hides, or thatched with 
palm leaves, about half the length of the balza, for 
the accommodation of passengers, or for merchan- 
dize. In the rear of this shed is a fire-place ; and 
the family of the balz^ro generally lives there. To 
the front of the hut are fastened two strong poles, 
which are lashed, one to each side of the raft, and 
meet, in an acute angle, about twenty feet above the 
deck. They are further secured by a stay, which 
leads forward to the head of the balza. This 
contrivance is used as a substitute for a mast, which 
could neither be stepped nor secured so as to carry 
sail, in a vessel without either beams or keel. On 
these sheers is hoisted a large lug-sail, the braces 
of which lead aft ; and under this they contrive 
even to beat to windward, notwithstanding the un- 
promising appearance of the vessel and her rigging. 
Their method of keeping the balzas to the wind, 
is by means of several planks, which they push 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 243 

down between tlie logs, making them answer for 
lee-boards. Although they cannot be expected to 
be weatherly vessels, they are in this way enabled 
to hold a tolerable wind, sufficiently to beat in these 
smooth seas; often making long voyages on the 
coast, and being sometimes met with out of sight of 
land. They are a very comfortable mode of con- 
veyance ; are neatly decked with split bambu ; and 
have plenty of room to hang up hammocks under 
shelter. It is necessary for the balz6ro to be very 
carefnl, when in a sea-way, with the fastenings that 
secure the logs together ; for they are very apt to 
chafe, and, if not replaced, the raft may go to pieces. 
Many families live entirely on board these balzas in 
the river Guayaquil, in the same way that the 
Chinese inhabit their junks ; keeping poultry in 
t&em, and not being obliged to stir from home, 
even to fish. 

The tides influence this river, much higher up 
than Guayaquil ; where it rises at the new moon 
twenty four feet. Thig is convenient for the 
commerce of the place, facilitating the ingress and 
^ress of large vessels ; but it renders the water 
brackish, and unfit for drinking, far above the town. 
Lai^e balzas are constantly employed in bringing 
fresh water down the river, in caneos — earthen jars 
manufactured at Pisco, — ^for sale at the city ; where 
the inhabitants pay a real^ or the eighth of a dollar, 
for about a twelve gallon cask full. 

Others daily arrive from Daiili, Zamorrondon, 
and the adjacent villages, laden in bulk with cacao, 
which is cultivated here to a great extent, and is 
considered of as good a quality as that produced in 

m2 



244 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the province of Caracas. They also bring down 
the river abundance of pine-apples, mask and water- 
melons, cocoa-nuts, plantains, &c.; and, among 
other tropical fruits, the best sweet oranges in S. 
America, the rinds of which are scarcely thicker 
than a card. The profusion of fruit is indeed sur- 
prising; and the river, for many leagues above 
Guayaquil, meanders through orange groves, and 
ilouiishing plantations of every description. The 
fruits are exposed for sale in heaps, along the streets, 
at a very cheap rate ; and form a sight that charms 
a stranger on his first arrival. There are likewise 
to be seen, in the same places, yellow parrots from 
Chocd, lorosy tucansy and other scarce birds of the 
most brilliant plumage; besides every variety of 
monkies, among which the bearded capuchin is pre- 
eminent in ugliness. 

Guayaquil is built upon a perfectly level plain, 
along the North bank of the river ; and contains 
from twenty-five to thirty thousand inhabitants. 
It is composed of two divisions, La Citidad Vt^ 
and La Ciudad Nueva. The former, which is si- 
tuated the highest up the river, is the most ancient 
of the two, (as its name implies,) and consists en- 
tirely of the poorer sort of habitations. It is inter- 
sected by narrow creeks, which are full at high 
water ; but, at half ebb, the mud is uncovered, and 
exhales the most noisome and pestilential effluvia, 
especially in hot weather. The streets, which lead 
through this part of the town, are impassable in the 
rainy season, on account of the mud ; and are filthy 
all the year round, for no scavengers appear to be 
tolerated, except vultures and houseless dogs. This 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 245 

inattention to cleanliness, together with the un- 
wholesome exhalations from a marsh lying at the 
back of the city, sufficiently account for the fevers 
that so often prevail here. 

The frame work of the houses is made of timber. 
The upright parts, for the comers and sides, are 
very long and stout, and are sunk four or five feet 
in the foundation. This is a necessary measure of 
precaution against the terrible earthquakes that are 
so often experienced here. A shock, considered 
by the natives of the first magnitude, both for du- 
ration and violence, occurred on the 27th of June 
this year, about an hour before day-break, conse- 
quently while the troops were in their barracks. 
Had the houses been built of any other materials, 
^e loss of lives must have been great: as it was, 
considerable mischief was done among the buildings, 
which creaked and shook like a vessel in a gale of 
wind, and threw into the streets, from between the 
£rame work, large masses of brick and mortar par- 
titions. The inhabitants were struck with such 
terror, that many of them rolled themselves in the 
mud of the gutters, which traverse the streets, 
hoping by that penance to avert the wrath of heaven. 

In the new town is the hastill6ro, where ships of 
several hundred tons burthen are built on slips. 
Dry and floating docks might very easily be con- 
fltmcted here, on account of the lowness of the land, 
and the great rise of the tide. These would be of 
incalculable advantage to the interests of navigation, 
on the whole of the Western coasts ; for, at pre- 
sent, every vessel that receives an injury in her 
hnll, while in the Pacific, is obliged to be hove 

M 3 



246 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

down, for want of a dry dock ; and this opemtiou 
is well known to be both expensire and tedions, 
besides straining a vessel greatly. There is, also, a 
large house, close to the river, called the aguardi- 
enteriay which is used as a barrack for cavalry; 
the artillery barracks in the Galle Real, and a very 
commodious custom house, having broad stone steps 
in front, for the convenience of landing at any 
time of tide ; which cannot possibly l)e done any 
where else, on account of the deep mud at low water. 

The principal street, in which are the best hooses, 
is the Calle de Comercio ; almost all the dwellingg 
being two stories high. The ground floor is al- 
ways divided into small shops, occupied by artifi- 
r eel's of different trades; pulperias, and billiard-rooms. 
The first floor is let to lodgers, and the upper story 
is reserved for the owners of the house. There is 
only one broad common staircase to each house, 
which frequently gives rise to awkward mistakes a- 
mong strangers, when visiting a family. The na- 
tives, however, are perfectly indifferent to diis 
inconvenience ; so much so, that the the first floor 
in the house of one of the principal inhabitants, 
who was an Alcalde de primer voto, was let to 
people of notoriously bad character, who never- 
theless made use of the same staircase as the magis- 
trate and the young ladies of his family. 

Fish is caught in abundance in this river^ such 
as the 6a^T&, or cat-fish, which grows here to a great 
size, being frequently seen four feet and upwards 
in length ; the rdvalo, resembling a salmon ; a small 
kind of saw-fish, and many others. There are also 
very good oysters, and prawns in plenty. The 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 247 

riTer is much infested by alligators ; bat they are 
not very large, and few instances ever occur of ac- 
cidents happening through their voracity ; although 
the inhabitants are constantly bathing, in conse- 
quence of the excessive heat. 

Women of all classes in Guayaquil are excellent 
swinuners ; and regularly bathe in crowds, about 
day^break, and towards dusk in the evening, without 
any shelter, and most of them without any covering. 
They swim about, perfectly at their ease, although 
the public thoroughfare is along the bank, and the 
merchant-vessels lie at anchor dose to the shore. 
There cannot, in fact, be a more exposed place for 
bathing, than that which the Guayaquilenas have 
aeleeted ; but the ladies allege, as an excuse, that 
there are so many females in the water at the same 
moment as to make it impossible to recognise, with 
certainty, any individual. 

In the dear evenings, the summit of Ghimborazo, 
the loftiest of the Andes, is seen distinctly from 
the dty, for some time after sunset, at a consider- 
able elevation above the horizon, notwithstanding 
its great distance. The sun's rays gild the snowy 
top of the mountain, giving it the appearance of a 
red cloud of a conical shape. 

After dark, the flames from the crater of Coto- 
pdxi are seen, to the East, like a brilliant red star 
of the first magnitude. The detonations, during 
▼idlait eruptions of this volcano, have been heard 
at the same time on the Alameda of Guayaquil, and 
in tJie Plaza of Popayan. The distance is so very 
omisiderable, that it may be presumed that the 
sound, in those cases, has been transmitted through 



248 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the medium of the earth. The eruptions of this 
momitain are always most dangerous, when they 
have been preceded by an interval of calm. In 
one instance, the accumulated snows of thirty years 
melted in one night, and deluged the neighbouring 
country, producing the lagoon of Rio-bamba* on 
the spot where a populous village had previously 
stood. The appearance of Cotopdxi, on that mem- 
orable night, is said to have been most awfully 
grand. A column of fire, proceeding from the 
bowels of the earth, roared up through the crater, 
to a height above it equal to that of Mont Blanc 
from Chamouni ; and the enormous chimney, denu- 
ded of its snows, glowed as if semivitrified. 

A reinforcement, consisting of the regiments 
of Albion and Bogota, now arrived at 6uay>> 
aquil, from San Buenaventura, for Sucre's ar- 
my. He therefore left the city, and proceeded 
up the river to Zammorronddn, leaving behind him 
tlie sick, among whom I was at length included. 
At the same time, two regiments of Guayaquil in- 
fantry went to Las Bodegas, leaving in the city 
only one company of militia for its defence ; as no 
danger whatever was apprehended by the Govern- 
ment. 

A short time previously, a royalist colonel, by 
name Lopez, the same who commanded a division 
of Calzdda's army, in the unsuccessful attack on our 
army at Pitayo, was taken prisoner in a skirmish, 
among the hills above the town of Xipixdpa, and had 
been sent to Guayaquil, where he was permitted to be 
at large on his parole. This officer conceived a plan 
for a counter-revolution, that should aguin place 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 249 



% 



Guayaquil under the Spanish flag, in which he was 
very near succeeding. He affected to consider the 
cause of the royalists as completely ruined and hope- 
less ; and volunteered his services to Olmddo, the 
President of the new republic, to command a corps 
of patriot troops : being anxious, he said, to have a 
speedy end put to a struggle, which the Spaniards 
might protract, but in which they could never 
eventually succeed. His professions were believed, 
and his offers accepted. Olm^do had the culpable 
weakness to give him the command of one of the 
new regiments then stationed at Las Bodegas. 

There were six large gun-boats lying in front of 
Guayaquil, constantly kept in a state of readiness 
for service, the captains and crews of which were 
the very same that had manned them, during the 
time the Spaniards were in possession of the place. 
Tliese men Lopez easily gained over to his views ; 
for tibey were already royalists in their hearts. In 
fact they desired nothing better than a revolution, 
by which they were sure to be benefitted in some way 
or other, either by plunder or advance of pay. 
The gun-boats were to raise the cry of " Viva el 
Rey r on the second morning after Lopez's leaving 
Guayaquil to join his regiment ; and were, in the 
first place to secure the " Emperor Alexander" and 
the " Anna" brig, both of which were armed ves- 
sehf* With these, and two of the boats, they were 
to intimidate the city, and countenance any party 
which might be willing to rise in their favour ; 
while two more launches were to proceed up the 
river, with balzas, to bring down Lopez and his 
troops, and to prevent Sucre's army, which was at 

M 3 



250 ^ CAMPAIGNS AN0 CRUISES. 

Zamorrond6ny from crossing to sssist 
The remaining boats were to drop down the rirer 
to Naranjsd, a short distance below the island of 
Pana^, with more balzas, to receive a party oi the 
royalist army from Caenoa, which #88 expected 
to be in readiness to embark, and join Lopez st 
the city. 

Fortunately for us, the lanchiros precipitated mea- 
sures, by openly revolting the very next morning, 
before their principal in thi^ conspiracy could reach 
the corps he had been appointed to command. 
This was caused by the money which Lopeibad dis- 
tributed among the men, having given most of them 
an opportunity of intoxicating themselves. Some of 
them, thrown off their guard by the influence of 
liquor, publicly boasted that there would shortly be a 
change of affairs ; and gave plain hints of what was 
going to take place, at 2^ fandango given that evening 
in the Ciudad Vieja.. The 6aptains, therefore, of the 
gun-boats, alarmed at their men's imprudence, re- 
solved to delay no longer, for fear of the Govern- 
ment gaining intelligence of the conspiracy, and 
arresting them as ring-leaders. At about two in 
the morning, they boarded the " Emperor Alexan- 
der,'' which they easily took, as most of the smlors 
belonging- to that ship were on shore. CSapt. 
Ramsay and some other Englishmen were wounded, 
and thrown overboard, but they escaped by swim- 
ming, until picked up by canoes. The kmckiros 
then began to plunder ; and having again got at 
spirits, dissigreed among themselves. Instead of 
detaching boats to Las Bodegas and Naranjil, as 
had been proposed, they continued together, firing 



CAMPAieNS AND CRUI8BS. 251 

wantonly and nseleady on the city ; willioat, how- 
ever doing any great mischief, for many of their 
shots went over the houses, and fell in the savanna. 
The Government appeared perfectly paralysed; 
and tilie company of militia, on being drawn np in 
the Plaznela de San Francisco, sat down on the 
ground with great composure, out of the reach of 
shot, to await the event, instead of showing any 
disposition to resist the gun-boats. 

The foreigners, who were in Guayaquil, now 
assembled at Mr. Villamil's house^ — invalids and 
all, — and determined to adopt some measures in 
defence of their lives and property, both of which 
were at stake ; for the vagabonds of the city had 
already began to talk about plundering the stores, 
and it was well known, that, if the gun-boat men 
were to land, they would be joined by the militia, 
and the rotozos, or rabble ; when the town would be 
sacked, and, without doubt, every foreigner in it mas- 
sacred* The merchants, therefore, collected all the 
Elnglish and American sailors in the port, who pro- 
ceeded, with a reinforcement of clerks and porters, 
under the directions of a few sick officers, to clear 
away two gims, that were lying under a heap of rub- 
bish in the patio of the Captain of the Port's house. 
Having succeeded, with great difficulty ,.in mounting 
these, and procuring ammunition for them, a fire 
was at length opened upon the gun-boats, which 
obliged them to haul off to the other side of the 
river. They made a few attempts to approach the 
town, in the course of the afternoon; but were 
always met by such a well directed fire, that they 
at last retired down the river, taking with them 



252 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8B8. 

the ship ; having previously fired several shots into 
the brig '^ Anna," between wind and water, which 
Slink her. 

Lopez, although disappointed in his designs on 
Guayaquil, succeeded in corrupting the r^;iment 
which had been so imprudently entrusted to him, 
and took it over to the Spaniards at Quito. The 
ship and gun-boats were pursued by Gapt. R. Bell, 
of the Chil^no navy, with some English volunteers, 
on board the schooner OlmMo. The ship made 
her escape to Panama ; but all the gun-boats ran 
ashore outside Puna, and were taken or destroyed. 

Bolivar, meanwhile, liad finally defeated the 
royalist army at Caraboho, by which the tranquillity 
of Colombia was established. He had, therefore^ 
leisure to turn his attention towards Quito, and 
arrived at Guayaquil with troops to reinforce Suore, 
(who had sustained a defeat at Pichincha); being 
resolved to finish the war, in this part of the coun- 
try, during the present campaign. 

San Martin had also defeated the Spaniards, un- 
<i<;r the command of the Viceroy La Sema, and 
had entered Lima. The foits of Callao had sur- 
rendered to the patriot forces ; and, as the presence 
of the Chileno squadron was no longer necessary 
there, Lord Cochrane determined on sailing in 
search of the frigates Prueba and Venganza, the 
only relics of the Spanish fieet in the Pacific, which 
had taken refuge in the harbour of Acapulco. As 
Home of the vessels, however, composing the squad- 
ron, especially the O^Higgins, stood in need of re- 
pairs, after the tedious blockade of Callao, and of 
the coast of Peru in general ; his Lordship found 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 253 

it expedient to proceed, in the.first place, to Guay- 
aquil* Here ship carpenters could be easily pro- 
cured ; and there was every facility for heaving 
down a vessel of any size, if necessary. 

He. arrived here in the month of September, with 
the O^Higgins and Valdivia frigates (formerly La 
Maria Isabel, and La EIzmeralda,)the Independencia 
corvette, ^the Aralicano brig, and the Mercedes 
schooner; besides a large prize ship, called La 
Trinidad. The government of Guayaquil received 
Lord Cochrane with great politeness, offering him 
every assistance in their power ; and he immedi- 
ately proceeded to refit the squadron, so as to be 
enabled to pursue the enemy with as little delay as 
possible* The O^Higgins, an old fir-built frigate, 
altibough a fine model and a fast sailer, had sprung 
a troublesome leak, which was difficult to be got at. 
All her gims, stores, and ballast were landed ; and 
she was hauled close to the shore abreast of the 
Ciudad Vleja. There she was left high and dry 
twice a day by the ebb tides, being kept upright 
by hawsers from her mast heads, secured to the 
trees and houses on the beach. By this means her 
sides were caulked, but it was impossible to get 
properly at the leak, which was in the garboard 
streak, close to the keel, without heaving her down ; 
and, as this operation would necessarily take up a 
considerable time, Lord Cochrane was unwilling to 
be delayed so long. Such exertions were made on 
board the respective ships, that they were speedily 
reported fit for sea ; and were soon in readiness to 
drop down to a small river, called Balao, for the 
purpose of filling up the water casks* 



I 

\ 



254 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8B8* 

Being at this time incapable dTfollowing die anny, 
in consequence of a severe attack of rheumatism, 
of which there was no prospect of amendment in 
this climate, I had already obtained leave of ab- 
sence fixwi Sucre, with the intention of returning 
to Europe* Finding, however, that there was no 
possibility, at that time, of getting a passage roimd 
Cape Horn, from Guayaquil, (unless I could have 
made up my mind to take my passage to Philadel- 
phia, via Canton, on board tiie " Tea plant," U. S. 
merchantman, as. was proposed to me,) I obtained 
an appointment from Lord Cochrane, ^ as marine 
officer in the squadron of Chile, with tiie same rank 
that I held in the Colombian service. I joined the 
Independencia, Capt. Wilkinson, on the 16th. of 
Nov., together with another English officer ^ and 
some privates, all of whom had marched across tiie 
country at the same time with me, and were also 
invalided. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 255 



CHAPTER XV. 



CHILENO SQUADRON SAILS FOR ACAPULCO. — ISLANDS OF 
LA PLATA ANDCOCOS. — CAPTURE OF A PIRATE FELUCCA. 

GULF OF FONSECA. — VOLCANOS ON THE COAST OF 

TEHUANTEPEC. — ARAUCANO DETAINED IN ACAPULCO. 
— LORD COCHRANE ENTERS THE HARBOUR. — DESCRIP- 
TION OP ACAPULCO. INDEPENDENCIA AND ARAUCANO 

DETACHED TO CALIFORNIA. — TRES MARIAS ISLANDS. — 

CAPTURE OF A SPANISH GUN-BRIG. MISSION TO CAPE 

SAN LUCAR. UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION ON SHORE. — 

DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE IN SOUTH CALIFORNIA. 

MUTINY AND LOSS OF THE ARAUCANO. GUAYMAS 

IN THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA. — SAIL FOR CHILE. — 
ARRIVE AT COQUIMBO. 



The squadron shortly after weighed, and kedged 
down the river, to the island of Pun^. This is a 
very extensive tract, of low land, the greater part 
of which is now a trackless jungle ; although it 
was formerly in a high state of cultivation, and very 
thickly inhabited. The last of the Incas of Peru, 
Manco Capac, in revenge for the death of his son, 
who was treacherously killed by the inhabitants of 
this island, is said to have put every man, woman 
and child on it to death, to the number of near 
eighty thousand. There are now only a few 
scattered chacras on it ; and one small village at the 
landing place, with a wooden church. After having 
speedily watered at Balao, we proceeded towards 
Acapulco. As we passed the Isla del Muerto, Lord 
Coobrane detached the schooner Mercedes, com- 
manded by Lieut Shepherd, with directions to look 
into the bay of Panam'A, for the purpose of discover- 



256 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISBS* 

ing whether the Spanish frigates were lying at 
anchor among the pearl islands ; and then to join 
the squadron at Acapulco, with all the intelligence 
he could collect. 

On our way to the rendezvous, we passed dose 
to the rocky island of La Plata, which received its 
name from the treasure shared there, among his 
ship's company, hy Commodore Anson, after taking 
Pa3N;a and Guayaquil. A few days afterwards, we 
arrived at the small unfrequented island of Cocos ; 
so called from the vast number of cocoa-nut trees by 
which it is covered, from the sea-beach to the very 
top of the hills. This island is high, and of a coni- 
cal shape. It has a beautiful appearance, standing 
alone in the middle of this vast ocean, and being 
constantly covered with verdure. Water is to be 
had here in abundance. Besides a small fresh water 
lagoon, at the landing place, from whence a rivulet 
runs into the sea, there are numerous clear cascades, 
rushing down, in several places, from the craggy 
cli£Ps, by which the island is partly surrounded. 
Innumerable flocks of sea fowl, chiefly consisting 
of gulls and hobos^ breed here. They are apparently 
but seldom disturbed; for they flew in clouds 
among the vessels on our approach, alighting fear- 
lessly on the yards and rigging, and deafening us 
with their clamorous screams. 

After lying to here a few hours, while the admi- 
ral and some other officers went on shore to ex- 
amine the watering place, we were preparing to flU 
away, and proceed on our cruise ; when a filucca 
vessel was perceived, stealing along, with the as- 
sistance of her sweeps, close under the^land, and 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 257 

attemptiiig to escape round the point, among some 
rocks and small islands that lie close off. The 
Valdiyia^ Capt. H. Cobbett, immediately gave chase, 
and came np with her late at night, having shot 
away one of her masts. She proved to' be a vessel 
belonging to the Peruvian Government, with a 
cargo of wine and cloth, manned by a few English 
and Americans, who had run away with her from 
Callao, and, by their own confession, intended to 
turn pirates on the coast; — if they had not 
already commenced, as there was every reason 
to believe, from sundry articles found on 
board. 

Lord Cochrane detached the Araiicano, a fast 
sailing brig, commanded by Capt. Simpson, direct 
to Acapulco, in hopes of being able to intercept 
some Spanish vessel, of which his Lordship had re- 
ceived intelligence. The rest of the squadron was 
to follow, keeping close in with the coasts of Leon 
and Tehuantepec, in order to lookout for the frigates 
of which we were in search. 

On approaching the coast of Mexico, we ex- 
perienced one of those severe gales of wind,— or 
rather petty tyfoons, — called here chuvascos, that 
are often encountered in these latitudes. The 
O'Higgins was so much strained by the heavy cross 
sea, that the Admiral found it necessary to make 
the signal to bear up for the gulf of Fonseca. From 
thence, he detached the Independcncia, to look in 
at the ports of Rialexo and Zonzonate. 

Off Kialexo, an old Indian pilot came on board, 
and informed us that the patriot flag was flying 
there, and that no enemy's vessel was in the river. 



258 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Shortly after, while in chase of a brig that appear- 
ed rather suspicious, the Independencia suddenly 
struck on a sunken rock, while running along the 
land at the rate of six knots an hour* The shock 
was so violent, as to throw down every one on 
board, that was standing ; but the ship fortunately 
forged over the rock, after two or three more heavy 
. concussions. She sustained little injury, except 
I ripping off forty feet of her false keel* This rock 
) was not laid down in the charts, and appears to be 
of volcanic origin, from a specimen of it that stuck 
in the ship's bottom, and remained there until she 
was hove down in Valparaiso, ten months afiber. 

When we returned to the Gulf of Fons^ca, we 
found that the leak in the O^Higgins had increased 
' to an alarming degree* Lord Cochrane enter- 
tained serious thoughts of abandoning and burning 
her, after taking out all her stores, and distribut- 
ing the ship's company between the other two ves- 
sels : for they were far from being well-manned, 
as almost all the foreign seamen had left the service 
at Callao. The leak was at length partially stop- 
ped, being got at, with a great deal of difficulty, 
from the inside. 

While the ships were lying in the mouth of the 
outer gulph, completing their water, and preparing 
for sea, the alcalde of a village, a few leagues off, 
came on board to visit the vessels. He was so 
much pleased with his reception, that he earnestly 
requested some officers to return with him to his 
house ; promising to procure as much fresh stock 
as we wanted. I obtained permission to go, as 
caterer of our mess ; and an officer was deputed. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 259 

by the gan-room of the Valdivia, to accompany 
me for the same pnrpose. We arrived at the 
Indian Tillage^ made our purchases, and were re- 
taming in a canoe, with a cargo of fowls, pigs, and 
y^;etables, anticipating the thanks of our mess- 
mates, who had been for some time living on 
char qui and salt beef; when a sudden squall of 
wind capsized the canoe, and left us swimming 
among the live stock. We were in the middle of 
a rapid current, between two rocky islands ; so 
that, after some fruitless attempts at righting the 
canoe, the Indians abandoned it, and advised us to 
strike out for the nearest point, which was, fortu- 
nately, not far off. The island we reached was so 
far from the main land, that even the peons shook 
dieir heads, when questioned whether we could 
possibly swim thither. We therefore sat still, in 
hopes of hailing some fishermen on their return 
from sea, a most disconsolate group ; our Indian 
friends loudly bewailing the loss of their canoe, 
while Daly and I lamented the untimely fate of the 
pigs and poultry, which were swept out to sea, and, 
doubtless, soon regaled the sharks. We passed a 
tedious night, and part of the next day, on the 
rock, without a drop of water ; but a piragua for- 
tunately passed within hail, and rescued us from 
oar awkward situation. We were very near being 
left behind; for the squadron. was actually under 
weigh, and standing out, when we reached it. 

This gulph runs to a considerable distance inland, 
towaids the lofty volcano of Le6n, which is seen 
fiur off at sea. The currents, in many parts of it, 
are very rapid, and raise so great a ripple at some, 



260 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

points of land, as to be dangerous to canoes and 
small boats. Heavy squalls of wind, likewise, blow 
suddenly from the high vallies in the neigUboiir- 
hood ; and render this an unsafe anchorage for yes- 
sels, although it is completely land-locked. While 
sailing irom hence, along the coast, we saw several 
volcanos near the sea, which were in action. One 
of these, in particular, we observed throwing up 
stones and lava ; which could be distinctly seen by 
day-light, lowing red hot down the sides of the 
mountain. 

The quantity of turtle found here, floating on 
the surface of the water, is astonishing. When- 
ever the sea admitted of lowering a boat, we were 
sure of catching them by dozens at a time. There 
were on board several Canacas^^ (Sandwich 
islanders), who, it is well known, are all excellent 
swimmers. One of them, who was coxswain to 
the captain's gig, was remarkably dexterous in 
taking the turtle. He used to dive under them, 
as they lay basking in the sun, and turn them, hold- 
ing fast by the fins until a boat came to secure 
them. This was found a most acceptable change 
of diet, to those in the squadron who would eat 
them ; for our salt provisions, and the jerked beef, 
called on this coast charqui^ had been brought all 
the way from Chile, and was in a very bad condition. 
Those of the Chileno sailors and marines, who had 
never before seen a turtle, were greatly disgusted 
at the sight of them ; believing them to be sea- 
toads of an enormous size. They could by no 
means be prevailed on to taste the soup, or rather 
stew, that was made of them ; although it was ex- 



CilMPAIONS AND CRU1SB9. 261 

tremely palateable, and had even plenty of Pisco 
wine put in it, for the purpose of tempting them to 
lay aside their scruples respecting it. On receiv- 
ing their allowance, they either gave it to the 
Englishmen, and such of their countrymen as were 
old campaigners, and would eat anything fresh ; or 
threw it overboard. It therefore became neces- 
sary to serve them out charqui and corned beef. 
We salted a few quintals of the fleshy part of the 
turtles, and dried it in the sun, on the rattlines of 
the rigging. It kept very well, and we took some 
of it with us to Chile. 

In the meantime, the Araiicano had arrived at 
Acapulco. Capt. Simpson learned, that the Spa- 
nish frigates had remained in that harbour for some 
months, without molestation from the forts ; al- 
though the patriot flag was flying on the castle and 
in the town. They had not long been compelled 
to leave the place, in consequence of a scarcity of 
provisions felt there. A great discontent, almost 
amounting to a mutiny, had shown itself among 
the HuachinangoSf (criole sailors, of the leeward 
coast) of whom a great proportion of their crews 
was composed ; for but few of the original ships' 
companies, that had sailed from Spain, still survi- 
ved. The frigates had gone to Panamsi, in search 
of Lord Cochrane ; wishing to surrender to him, 
rather than to any native of the revolted colonies. 
There were a few Spanish merchant-vessels, and 
two English East India traders, lying at Acapulco ; 
where, although the government had hoisted the 
tricolor flag, ^^ in common with the rest of Mexico, 
they appeared to be still very favourably disposed 



262 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

to the Spanish nation. This was a natoral feel- 
ing for a place, which had no commerce what- 
ever of its own, and had risen into consequence, 
merely by being the port at which the galleons 
regularly arrived with merchandize from the 
Manila, and from whence they sailed with bullion, 
and European goods. 

Gapt. Simpson, having imprudently trusted him- 
self on shore, confiding in the patriot flag that was 
flying on the forts, was seized, and imprisoned in 
the castle, under the pretence that he had no 
regularly authenticated commission. Troops were 
also sent, during the night, on board the Araiicano, 
which was lying at anchor in the outer harbour, 
with orders to haul her close in to the inner an- 
chorage, and moor her under the fire of the 
batteries. She was detained there until a valuable 
Spanish vessel had sailed, with specie, for the 
Manila; the supercargo of which had doubtless 
found weighty arguments, to persuade the Mexican 
governor to this act of hostility to the Chil^no 
flag. On hearing, however, of the near approach 
of Lord Cochrane, whose very name brought ter- 
ror with it, wherever he appeared in the Pacific, 
the governor released Capt. Simpson, with many 
apologies for the step he had taken ; protesting he 
had mistaken him for a pirate, who, he had been 
informed, was on the coast. 

The Araiicano came out of the> harbour, to meet 
the squadron on its arrival ; and Capt. Simpson 
informed the admiral of what had occurred. He 
acquainted him, at the same time, that the batteries 
in the harbour had been manned, and a battalion of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 263 

infantry marched into the castle ; and that every 
preparation appeared to be making, to resist the 
entrance of the squadron. Lord Cochrane accord- 
ingly sent in a flag of trace, to assnre the gover- 
nor of his pacific intentions in entering the harbour, 
solely for the purpose of obtaining water and 
refreshments; adding, that in the event of the 
forts offering any resistance, the squadron would 
be compelled to use force, which could not fail to 
dami^e the town, and injure the peaceable in- 
habitants. 

Immediately after the departure of the flag of 
truce, the O'Higgins made the general signal to 
prepare for action ; and stood into the harbour, 
followed by the other ships. The wind being un- 
favourable, we were obliged to beat in, tacking in 
succession. On rounding the point of the inner 
harbour, a beautiful view of the town opened upon 
us, with its neat white buildings ; defended by a 
strong fort, and several batteries, on which the 
Mexican flag was flying. As we could plainly 
discern all the guns to be manned, and the matches 
burning, we anchored in line abreast of the castle, 
with springs on our cables, in readiness for action ; 
for we were by no means certain as to what their 
intentions were respecting us, the flag of truce not 
having yet returned on board. After some pause, 
the governor came ofl^ in his state barge, to compli- 
ment the admiral on his arrival ; and invited him 
and his officers on shore. This invitation Lord 
Cochrane did not think fit to 4u;cept immediately ; 
but the governor, on his return, sent fresh beef 
and bread for the use of the ships. 



264 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The harbour of Acapulco is by far the most 
secure on the West coast of South America. It 
is completely land-locked, by the serpentine en- 
trance to it ; and has very good anchorage dose to 
the landing place. The town is neat, though not 
very large. It used to have scarcely any resident 
inhabitants ; and was little frequented by visitors, 
except at the time of the periodical arrival of the 
Manila ships. Merchants used then to flock in for 
a considerable distance round, and g^ve the place 
the appearance of a fair. The forts are strong, 
and well built ; and have the entire command of 
the inner anchorage. 

An isthmus of land, which divides the harbour 
from the open sea, towards the West, has been cut 
through, nearly to a level with the water, for the 
purpose of giving a free entrance to the sea breeze. 
This laborious task was performed by the patriot 
prisoners of war, taken during the first campaigns 
of the revolution. They worked, in irons, until its 
completion ; and then they were shot, their services 
being no longer required. By admitting the sea 
breeze to the town and harbour, a very salutary 
effect has been produced on both, which were pre- 
viously remarkably sultry and unhealthy. 

Besides the English Indiamen lying here, we 
found a large Spanish galleon, called M Toche, 
which had not ventured to proceed on her voyage 
to tlie Manila, on hearing that Lord Cochrane was 
on the coast ; for she had, on a former occasion, 
narrowly escaped being captured by him off Arica. 
The Spanish captain was so much alarmed at the 
appearance of the Chil^no squadron, that, although 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 265 

he had hauled his ship close in to the landing-place, 
and had unbent her sails, he did not consider him- 
self safe from being cut out, until he had unshipped / 
the rudder, and carried it on shore. This he ac- ' 
cordingly did, the same night that we arrived. 

The whole of the beach is covered with. a bright 
white coral, resembling alabaster, which burns into 
a very fine lime, much used here for white- washing, 
on account of the superior purity of its colour. 
The canoes in the harbour are secured from up- 
setting, by an outrigger projecting from each side, 
formed of two poles, that extend across the canoe 
to about four feet from each gunwale, to the ends 
of which cross pieces of light wood are fastened. 
A similar outrigger is in use among some of the 
Polynesian groups. Qu» : has it been originally 
invented on the Main, or by the islanders ? 

The Mercedes arrived from Panam^, with an 
unsatisfactory account of her mission ; for Lieut. 
SHiepherd had seen some large vessels lying in the 
hay, but had not approached near enough to make 
them out distinctly. The admiral, therefore, di- 
rected Lieut. P. Grenfell to undertake the recon- 
noissance; and determined to await the return of 
the schooner in Acapulco. As he found it impos- 
sible to procure provisions here, for the shipping un- 
der his command, he ordered the Independencia and 
Araiicano to proceed to California, with money to 
purchase flour and bullocks. These they were to 
slaughter, salt, and jerk, wherever they could be 
bought ; and return with the provisions to the 
squadron. There was also intelligence of a large 
Spanish ship, expected to ssol soon from San Bias 

N 



266 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

to the Manila, with a million and a half of dollars 
on board, for which we were ordered to look out. 

When in sight of Las tres Marias islands, which 
lie opposite the mouth of the harbour of San 
Bias, Capt. Wilkinson, who commanded the Indepen- 
dencia, directed Capt. Simpson to proceed up the 
Gulph of California, to the mission of Lor^to, 
where he was to buy cattle. While a party of his 
men was employed salting the beef on shore, he 
was to cross the Gulph to Gnaymas, buy flour tiiere, 
and join the Independencia at Cf^e San Lucar, 
taking on board his salting party on his return. 

On the Tres Marias, which are principally fre- 
quented by English and American whalers, are 
caught abundance of the turtle called cariy^ the 
shell of which is the tortoise-shell of commerce. 
The flesh is poor ; not being even so good as that 
of the hawk*s-bill turtle, which is the species gene- 
rally caught on the coast. On the hills, in these 
islands, is found the lignum-vitsB tree, which some 
trading vessels have lately been in the habit of 
cutting ; but, from its excessive weight, and the 
rugged nature of the ground over which it must be 
conveyed, it is extremely difficult to get the 1<^ 
down to the water s edge. Some of these trees 
are said to be of a considerable thickness, as mudi 
as twelve and fourteen inches in diameter ; and 
would make excellent sheaves for purchase or 
snatch-blocks, on account of their size. 

We proceeded, in search of cattle, to the bay of 
San Jos^, at the most Southern part of California, 
where there is a village and mission. As we ex- 
pected to find some Spanish vessel at anchor there, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 267 

Capt. Wilson ordered the Independencia to be dis- 
guised as much as possible like an English mer- 
chantman; and to conceal her force by housing 
the guns, and covering with canvass the holes in 
the half-ports; so as not to alarm any enemy's 
ship that we might meet with, until we could get 
close to her. 

On opening the bay, we saw a brig at anchor, 
carrying a large Spanish ensign and pendant, which 
showed her to be an armed vessel : we, therefore, 
hoisted English colours, in order to pass for an 
East Indiaman. This stratagem deceived the 
Spaniard, who lay perfectly at his ease ; although he 
might have readily escaped or run ashore, if he had 
suspected what we really were. As we passed 
near the brig, in beating up to the anchorage, the 
captain hailed us in English, haughtily demanding 
what business we had in his Catholic Majesty's 
seas ; and ordering us, with many opprobious terms, 
to anchor immediately alongside of him, and send 
a boat forthwith on board him, with the ship's 
papers. Capt. Wilkinson complied with this pe- 
remptory mandate, with much apparent humility ; 
substituting, however, cutlasses for ship's papers. 
At the moment the boat pushed off, he ordered all 
the guns to be run out at once ; hauling down 
at the same time the English colours, and hoist- 
ing the Chil^no ensign, and commodore's broad 
pennant. 

The brig's decks were crowded with Indians 
from the shore, who were assisting in replacing the 
rudder, which had been unshipped a few days be- 
fore, by touching on a rock. On our discovering 

N 2 



268 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

ourselves, the greater part of them jumped overboard) 
although we lay at least two miles from the shore ; 
for they doubtless expected a broadside as the first 
salute. Our boats soon picked them up, and brought 
them on board ; for we did not wish the arrival 
of a patriot man-of-war to be as yet made known 
at the town. The brig, which of course surren- 
dered immediately, proved to be the San Francisco 
Xavi^r, pierced for sixteen guns, and mounting 
fourteen. She was a privateering trader, cruising 
between the missions on the coast of California, 
and MasatMn, San Bias, and other ports in Mexico, 
which still admitted the Spanish flag, notwithstand- 
ing their having declared their independence. She 
had a valuable cargo of deers' tallow; wine, china- 
ware, &c. We were informed^ by the Indians, 
who soon laid aside their apprehensions, that the 
Intendente of the mission was absent from San 
Jos^ ; which, as well as the rest of California, still 
maintained its allegiance to Spain. We also leamed| 
that the ex-governor of San Bias, Don Jose Anto- 
nio Quartdra, who had been obliged to make his 
escape from Mexico on the declaration of indepen- 
dence, was in the house of the mission, together 
with the commandant of militia, waiting for a pas- 
sage to La Manila. 

Capt. Wilkinson, considering it expedient to 
have sufficient hostages for the delivery of the 
cattle he proposed to purchase, ordered a party of 
marines on shore in tlie middle of the night, with 
orders to surprise the two Spanish officers, and 
bring them on board. This was put in execution 
with the greatest ease ; for they had not the least 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 269 

idea that the ship they had seen anchor in the roads 
was an enemy, and were taken while playing cards 
in the Sala de la Mision. The next morning they 
were liberated, on pledging themselves to have 
cattle brought in from the country for sale ; which 
was soon done, when the natives found that we had 
not come to plunder them, as they were at first 
apprehensive. The two Spanish officers were so 
agreeably surprised, at finding their persons and 
property respected, — contrary, as they candidly 
admitted, to the usual conduct of their own party 
during the war, — that they became frequent visitors 
to dinner on board, and were of the greatest ser- 
vice to us in our dealings with the natives. 

They informed Capt. Wilkinson, that there was 
a small Spanish schooner lying in a neighbouring 
harbour ; and, as he was apprehensive that she 
might carry intelligence to San Bias of our being 
here, and so put the Manila ship on her guard, he 
detached Lieut. Campbell, a North American, with 
a party of seamen and marines, for the purpose of 
scuttling her. The natives deceived us, as to the 
distance of the port in which she lay, from the 
mission of San Jose ; it being eighteen leagues off, 
instead of eight as they assured us. Lieut. Camp- 
bell, however, proceeded to the place, and suc- 
ceeded in sinking the schooner, without the least 
opposition on the part of the Indians. He then 
set off on his return to the ship ; but was, unfor- 
tunately, so imprudent as to leave his party at 
breakfast, in a village about a league from the har- 
bour, and to ride back with a deserter from an 
English whaler, who acted as his g^de, to see if 



270 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

the natives were making any attempts to raise the 
vessel. By this time, the Indians had collected in 
considerable force, on the beach. On seeing the 
officer so far from the assistance of his party, they 
knocked him off his horse with stones, and killed 
both him and the lad that had accompanied him. 
The men of the detachment which had halted in 
the village, were enjoying themselves in the mean 
time, having been provided with a plentiftd break- 
fast of fish, eggs, and aguardiente. They had no 
suspicion, whatever, of treachery ; until they sud- 
denly received a volley from their own arms, whidi 
they had carelessly left in a comer of the room, 
and which some Indians, who had entered unper- 
ceived, had seized. Several were killed and 
wounded ; and the survivors, having their hands 
/ tied to horses' tails, were marched in that manner 
to the silver mines of El Real de San Antonio, 
where they were put in irons. A flag of truce was 
sent by Capt. Wilkinson, to the Intendente of die 
missions, who commanded at San Antonio ; but he 
paid no respect to it, and put our purser, Don 
Francisco Monroy, who was the bearer of it, in 
the stocks at the calabozo. They were all, how- 
ever, released by the interference of the president 
of the missions in South California. He fortunately 
arrived at San Jos^ ; and quieted the minds of the 
inhabitants of that place, who were apprehensive 
of retaliation from us. 

The President invited us to be present at his 
reading the declaration of the independence of 
California, which step he was induced to take, after 
the example of Mexico ; being at last convinced. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 271 

by the arrival of the Chil^no squadron, that the 
cause of the royalists was hopeless in the Pacific ; 
and that his persisting in hoisting the Spanish flag 
at the missions, for any length of time, could only 
have the effect of introducing war, with all its 
attendant calamities, among them. Fifteen hun- 
dred Indians came into the town with him, armed 
with laaces and long Spanish fusils, and mounted 
on beautiful active horses. They appeared to do 
duty as a body-guard to the President, under whose 
command they were ; but had also native alcaldes, 
chosen from among themselves, to whom they paid 
great respect and obedience. 

All the CaUfomezes are excellent ginetes ; and 
most of them possess large herds of fine horses . 
As the underwood, in this part of tbe country, is 
diiefly thorny, and full of the prickly-pear and 
aloe, they are always clothed, when on horseback, 
in a snrtout made of dressed deerskin, with a hood 
to protect the head and face, and high boots of the 
same. The horse is also well, guarded from the 
thorns, by flaps of thick tanned leather, which hang 
over the chest as far as the knees, covering also 
the rider's thighs and shins. These are always 
ornamented, being stamped with various figures of 
flowers, birds, and beasts, much in the style of those 
designed by the Chinese. 

On Capt. Wilkinson's arrival, with a few of his 
officers, the Indians formed a semicircle round the 
Padre Presidente, who stood on a flight of steps in 
ircmt of the Mission, and asked them whether they 
would swear to maintain the independence of the 
country. To this they unanimously assented; as 



272 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

they would have done, with equal readinesSy to any 
other proposition of the missionary's making. To 
their great surprize and delight, the Independencia 
fired a salute on a signal that had been preconcerted. 
They answered with an irregular feu de Joie^^^ 
loading with ball cartridge, — which certainly had 
more the appearance of a skirmish than a rejoicing. 
A barrel of Pisco aguardiente, sent them fi^m on 
board, completed their joy. 

After this ceremony, the President invited us to 
a dinner, which, for variety and number of dishes, 
exceeded any festival we had as yet seen. The 
Indian mode of cooking had never appeared to 
greater advantage ; and the viands, particularly the 
tiirtle, salmon, and venison, were excellent. After 
dinner, the Padre rode with us round the vineyards 
and sugar-canes belonging to the Mission. During 
the ride, a circumstance occurred, that was very 
near embroiling us with the Indians, and might 
have led to serious consequences ; for they have at 
no time any great command of their temper, and 
were then in all the confusion incidental to a feast. 

The Padre, who understood not a word of 
English, observed Capt. Wilkinson giving direc- 
tions to one of his officers, who, on receiving them, 
rode off hastily towards our watering party, that 
was filling gang- casks not far off. This was merely 
to order them on' board, for fear of the Indians 
straying in that direction, and quarrelling with 
them ; but the Padre took it into his head, that we 
had formed a plot to carry him off to the ship, for 
some purpose of our own. He suddenly recollected, 
that he was nearly a league from his body-guard ; 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 273 

and turning' liis horse, without speaking' a word, set 
o£P at full gallop, over hedge and ditch, to the 
Mission. Capt. Wilkinson and his officers, not 
being able to form any idea what secret motive had 
prompted him to this abrupt retreat, followed him 
at the same pace. This served to increase the poor 
friar's terror to the utmost, and caused the greatest 
alarm 4n the village, through which he rode, ventre 
a terre, with his habits streaming in the wind, and 
nursued, as the Indians naturally supposed, by the 
English heretics. He could notapeak for agitation, 
on first reaching the Mission; out at length, to 
our astonishment, accused us, before the assembled 
crowd, of a design to kidnap him. We had the 
greatest difficulty in persuading him, that we were 
perfectly innocent of any such intention ; but we 
at length succeeded, on the arrival of the officer 
whose departure had occasioned the alarm, and 
on the Padre himself seeing the pinnace pulling o£F 
to the ship, But his confidence in us was evidently 
shaken ; and, as the Indians were persuaded that 
we had in some way or other insulted their Presi- 
dent, we deemed it advisable to make the best of 
our way down to the beach, by a diflFerent road 
from that we usually passed. We afterwards 
learned, from our friend Quartara, that our precau- 
tion had been most fortunate ; for several of the 
Indians had stationed themselves in ambush, at a 
small stream that crossed our customary pathway, 
with the intention of avenging the supposed 
a£Front, by shooting us as we passed. 

Bullocks were now brought in for sale, in abun- 
dance, at four dollars a head ; and, by means of a 

n3 



274 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISBS. ' 

party employed salting beef on board, and drying it 
in the sun on shore, we had soon as much prepared 
as was necessary, and were anxioos to sail. We 
had, however, heard nothing as yet of the Ara&oano, 
although she ought to have been with ns long before. 
At last, rumours were heard among the Indians, 
who were every day arriving from the interior, 
that parties of strangers had been seen on shore, as 
Loreto and Puerto Escondido. Capt. Wilkinson 
became very uneasy at this intelligence ; and deter- 
mined on sending^ a marine officer overland to those 
places, to examine into the truth of the report ; 
giving him a written order to take charge of any 
of the Araiicano's men he might meet with, and to 
inarch them back with him to San Jos^. This 
measure was, at first, strongly opposed, both by 
Quartara and the President, as being extremdy 
(lan":erous to the officer entrusted with this com* 
mission. They warned him that he would have to 
pass through a wild part of California, infested by 
]>aiithers aud jaguars, and inhabited solely by 
Indians, who would murder any European for ^e 
sake of his clothes ; especially one belonging to a 
ship, which they all knew had arrived in rather a 
h(»stile manner. The commandant of militia, 
however, volunteered his services to accompany 
him ; and so effectually disguised him in deerskins, 
til at he passed tlirough the country undiscovered, 
sleeping every night in the woods, and avoiding 
the villages and farms. Near San Antonio, he met 
a (*orporal of marines, belonging to the Araiicano, 
who brought the unwelcome news, that the foreign 
seamen of the brig had mutinied, and carried 
her oif. 



0AMPAIGK8 AND CBtJISES. 275 

The road between San Joe^ and San Antonio^ 
after attending gradnally for a few miles from the 
level of the sea shore, suddenly dimbs, by a pre- 
cipitous ascenty to an elevated table land. This 
extends, on the right, to the borders of the gnlph, 
where it sinks abruptly down to the beach, as if 
undermined and blown up : on the left it reaches to 
the feet oi a lofty range of mountains, whose sum- 
mits, moulded in fimta.tic cone, and pynunids, we 
discovered when at sea, the evening before we made 
the low land. A very remarkable rent appears on 
the brow of the loftiest of these ;' and the solid rock 
has been laid bare, in nearly a straight line, from 
the summit to the base, where a very deep and 
broad ravine b^^s, which has deft the table land 
throughout, as fsur as its termination near San Jose. 
This qudfrdda is about a hundred yards in width, 
and from fifty to eighty in depth. We descended 
into it repeatedly, in the course of our journey ; 
but found it unpleasant travelling for our horses, 
as the sand, with which its bottom is covered ; 
though level, is yielding and heavy. It is said by 
the natives to have been torn up, not many years 
since, by a waterspout that fell on a neighbouring 
peak. Be that as it may, there is little appearance 
of a torrent having passed ; and the ravine has more 
the appearance of some gulph that has been deser- 
ted by the sea. Thick copse-wood was growing 
up in many parts of it, swarming, my companion 
assured me, with jaguars. We, however, saw 
nothing fiercer than droves of coUates^ which are 
either wolves or very large foxes ; and they ap- 
peared to hesitate whether to attack us or not. 



276 CABffPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Rattle-snakes were so numerous, that we lolled 
eighteen or twenty basking on the sands ; and 
selected some rattles, with an unusual number of 
rings in each, to take on board. 

Capt. Simpson soon arrived at point San Lucar, 
in an open boat, with part of his people ; having left 
the rest at Lor^to under the charge of Lieut. Noyes. 
He stated that, on his first arrival at that Mission, 
he had bought cattle, and landed a party with a 
subaltern, to salt and dry the beef. He had then 
proceeded to Guaymas, where he purchased flour ; 
and returned to Lor^to, for the people and pro- 
visions that had been left there. On his going on 
shore to hasten their embarkation, .an TSnglji^b 
master's-mate, who was left in charge, persuaded 
the rest of the foreigners on board to run away 
with the brig ; having landed the Chil6nos at Puerto 
Escondido, under the pretence of sending them 
ashore on a wooding party. It was afterwards 
ascertained, that they carried the Araiicano to the 
Sandwich islands, where Tamaahmaah seized her, 
having been informed by the English Missionaries 
of the illegal manner in which she had been ob- 
tained. The king kept her for some time, safely 
moored in a basin formed by piles driven into the 
sand, in expectation of some reward from the 
State of Chile for her salvage. 

Capt. Wilkinson was obliged, in consequence of 
this event, to proceed immediately to Lor^to, to 
take in the men who had been left there. We 
found Noyes, and the party under his command, 
close prisoners in the church of the Mission, having 
been surprised and disarmed by the Indians. They 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 277 

were, however, released on our arrival, and per- 
mitted to embark. From thence we sailed to 
GkiaymaS) to purchase more flour for the squadron, 
in lieu of that which had been shipped in the 
Araiicano, before she was carried off. We conse- 
quently gave up all hopes of seeing the Spanish 
ship, which we had been expecting daily from San 
Bias. Had we remained on our station at San 
Jos^, we could not have failed to intercept her ; 
for all vessels bound to the Westward, from the 
Northern coast of Mexico, come within sight of 
Cape San Lucar, from whence they take their 
departure. It wbs no small mortification to us to 
be obliged te forego our chance of capturing this 
vessel, which was probably the last that was to sail 
through the Pacific with specie, under the Spanish 
flag. It was ascertained that she had upwards of 
a million and a half of dollars on board, besides 
plata pina and ingots. 

Guaymas is a small but secure harbour, where 
plenty of provisions may be at all times procured. 
Capt. Wilkinson bought the flour at nine dollars 
the mule load, being three hundred weight; in 
which price the charge of two dollars per load was 
included, for the land carriage, from the mills in the 
interior. He also took on board a quantity of dried 
biznago root, (a species of cactus,) which is a valu- 
able antiscorbutic, for the use of the ship's company. 
This root, about six inches in thickness, is cut into 
slices, which are dried in the sun, and have an agree- 
able saccharine taste, resembling that of preserved 
pears. The inhabitants of this place were under 
great apprehensions of an attack, that was daily ex- 



278 CABfPAIQNS AMD CRUMBS. 

pected from the Indians of the Rio Colorado, a 
numerous and ferocious tribe from the upper end 
of the Gulf, who had lately been doing a great deal 
of mischief, and who very shortly after our depar- 
ture made their threatened descent^ and ravaged 
the coast. 

The climate of Califomia is temperate and 
pleasant. Although the air is rather cold in the 
mornings, in consequence of a breeae &om the 
ocean, that sets in about day break, the weather is 
warm enough in summer to ripen grapes, and bring 
sugar-cane and tobacco to perfection. The inhabi- 
tants rarely make anything but a coarse symp, and 
an ardent spirit, from the cane ; but from the grape 
they get a very pleasant light wine, much resemb- 
ling champagne. Provisions of every kind are 
remarkably cheap, and the soil is in general very 

fertile. » 

We now left this coast, and returned in search of 

theChil^no squadron. Lord Cochrane had appmnted 

Guayaquil as the place of rendezvous ; but, on our 

arrival at Puni^, we found he had sailed from 

thence. After taking on board cocoa and plantains, 

for the use of the ship's company, we sailed for 

Guambacho on the coast of Peru ; and from thence 

proceeded to Coquimbo in Chile, without seeing or 

hearing any thing of the squadron. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 279 



CHAPTER XVI. 



VALPARAISO. THE PORT. THE ALMENDRAL. QUEBRA- 

DAS. ENGLISH VILLAGE AND CEMETERY. FORTS AN- 
TONIO AND BARON. MARKET IN THE RECOVA. — SUM- 
MER AND WINTER GALES. NUMEROUS SHIPWRECKS 

INFANT SAVED BY THE HUAZOS. WRECKERS. EARTH- 
QUAKE OF 1822. PERMANENT ELEVATION OF STRATA 

ON THE COAST. SUK-BAKED BRICKS. BULLOCK VVAC- 

GONS. — MULETEERS. — THE PONCHO. 



After a Tery rough passage, (it being now the 
middle of winter,) during which we had distant 
views of the islands Mas Afiiera, and Juan Fer- 
nandez, we anchored in the harbour of Valparaiso, 
towards the end of June, 1822. Here we found 
the Admiral, and the greater part of the squadron 
assembled. Lord Cochrane had not been able to 
fall in with the Spanish frig-ates ; and they, as they 
were disappointed in their search for him, had sur- 
rendered themselves at Callao to San Martin, the 
Protector of Peru. 

The view, on entering the harbour of Valparaiso, 
by no means corresponds with the name of that 
city. The lofty mountains, by which it is surround- 
ed to the Southward and Eastward, are nearly 
barren, and appear incapable of cultivation ; pro- 
ducing nothing but a brown heathy grass, througii 
which patches of the bright red soil appear. A few 
stunted bushes, and flowering aloe plants, find soil 
and shelter in the qmehrddaSy or deep rocky ravines. 



280 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

which have been worn by a long succession of win- 
ters on the face of the mountain. The hills rise so 
abruptly from the sea shore, that there is only 
room for one street, leading from the Rec6va or 
market place, (where the Governor's palace stood 
previously to the great earthquake in 1822,) to an 
open space on the beach, called La Xarcia, which 
takes its name from a rope walk established there. 
In this place there is also a market, principally for 
fruit and vegetables. 

The hill retires a few hundred yards from the 
sea, at this spot, givbg room for a very pleasant 
part of the suburbs, called El Almendrsd, or the 
almond grove. In this there is one very long and 
broad street, and numerous country houses, with 
gardens, and peach orchards. On the sea shore, in 
this part of the bay, the greater part of the fisher- 
men, who supply the port, build their huts, and 
draw up their canoes. These are made of the 
hellota tree, generally from twelve to fifteen feet 
long, by about two feet broad, and eighteen inches 
deep, They are very liable to upset ; and are all, 
therefore, provided with logs of a buoyant wood, 
which are lashed along the outside near the water- 
mark, to give them more stability. Their clumsy 
inartificial construction would induce us to believe, 
that the aborigines of this part of the coast made 
use of balzas alone, as the fishermen now do in 
Peru. 

It is also here that the matanzdSy or butchers* 
shambles, are established ; close to the beach, and 
completely out of the way of the houses. Scarce a 
year passes without a serious conflagration in this 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 281 

extensive range of sheds ; which, being thatched 
with palm-leaves, and generally stored with skins 
of melted tallow, bum so fiercely, when fanned by 
the summer trade wind, as renders it totally im- 
possible to save the live stock which it usually 
contains. 

The principal street in the port, which is gene- 
rally understood to be the part that extends from 
the rezgttardOf or custom-house, to the arsenal, is 
the Planchada, running parallel with the sea shore. 
Here, previous to the earthquake, there was only one 
house of any description on the side next the har- 
bour, and that was built by Mr. Price, an English 
merchant. The foreigners have since set the na- 
tives the example of building dwelling houses, of 
two stories, on that side, which commands by far 
the pleasantest view. There is now a very good 
row of buildings there, with balconies round them, 
and shops on the ground floor. The sea has retired 
greatly since the awful convulsion of nature, in 1822 ; 
beside which, the owners of the houses next the 
hill^ keep parties of peons employed, aU the year 
round, cutting away the cli£P, for the purpose of en- 
larging their back yards, (most of the houses having 
been originally built directly against the face of the 
hill.) As all the stones andrubbish, thus obtained, have 
been thrown on the beach, mounds have been raised 
by this means, even as far out as where small vessels 
used formerly to lie. Most of the large houses, in 
this part of the town, are built on ground which 
has been thus gained, either from the cliff or the sea. 

There are many ravines, called QuebrddaSy run 
ning a considerable way back into the mountains 



282 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIftES. 

Through these, small streams of water flowy which 
are nearly dry in summer ; but often do a great deal 
of mischief in the winter, by the suddenness and 
magnitude of their floods. Many ranckos are annu- 
ally destroyed, and many lives lost, on these occa- 
sions ; for, in spite of repeated warnings, the natives 
will re-build, in the ensuing spring, on the same 
spots, from whence they have seen cotti^es lately 
swept. AU the Quebrddas are thickly inhabited. ; 
and chiefly by washerwomen, who are a remarkably 
numerous class in Valparaiso. We must, however, 
except that of San Agustin, opposite the landing 
place, where the theatre, built on the site of a deserted 
convent, is situated ; as also those of San Francisco, 
and Santo Domingo, in both of which are churches 
attached to monasteries, and some of the best private 
houses. Two of the hills between these Quebr^daB, 
called by the natives £1 Arrayikn, and La Cordil- 
lera (but by the English sailors the main imdjbre^ 
tops J, are also extensive barrios^ and contain a very 
dense population, chiefly of the lower class. The 
ranckos, or cottages of the smallest description, 
scattered over the face of the different hills, are 
innumerable. They are built, wherever it is pes. 
sible to level a patch of ground, four or five yards 
square ; although the path leading to it would 
hardly be attempted by a goat Most of these 
ranchos have a retamo, or large broom tree, growing 
in front, the bright yellow flowers of which have a 
lively appearance. 

Between the Qaebrdda de San A gustin, and that 
of £1 Durazno, is a very steep hill, nearly level on 
the top, which no one ever thought of inhabiting, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 283 

until an English merchant, by name Bateman, built 
the first house on it in 1822. He also constructed 
a winding road, to facilitate the ascent ; and, having 
purchased the ground, proposed building extensively 
on it. Unfortunately, before he could bring his plan 
of founding a village to completion, he was mur- 
dered, in his solitary dwelling, by. the peons he 
had employed ; who were probably tempted by 
the wealth he was believed to possess, and the un- 
protected way in which he lived. There are now 
a considerable number of very neat houses there, 
with gardens in the front ; built in the cottage style, 
and commanding a noble view of the bay, and open 
ocean. They are exclusively inhabited by English 
^unilies ; among which is that of the British Vice- 
Consul, Mr. White. There is also a commodious 
lodging house, kept by Oapt. Ross*; and a billiard 
table. It has even an English name : being called 
" Mount Pleasant** by foreigners ; and, by natives, 
** Monte Alegre." 

As the English, on account of not professing the 
Roman Catholic faith, were formerly prohibited 
from burying their dead in the consecrated ground, 
belonging to the churches in Valparaiso, they for 
some years made use of Fort San Antonio, and 
other enclosed places, in which the graves were not 
liable to be disturbed, for that purpose. They have 
now an extensive cemetery, surrounded by a high 
wall, on the summit of a hill between the Quebra- 
das of Elias, and of San Juan de Dies ; up which a 
serpentine road has been cut at the expence of the 
foreign merchants. The natives have lately fol- 
lowed the example of their visitors ; and have built 



284 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

for themselves a camposantOy with a small chapel, 
adjoining the British and N. American bnrying- 
ground. 

The bay of Valparaiso was formerly defended by 
five forts : but at present only two remain ; San 
Antonio, and El Baron. The former, which is 
situated on the same side of the bay as the anchor- 
age, close to the arsenal, is merely a saluting bat- 
tery. The guns are mounted en barbette ; and the 
battery is built immediately under a perpendicular 
cli£F, from which stones and rubbish would inevita- 
bly fall into the fort, should any shots be fired at it* 
At the other fort, which is at the opposite side of 
the bay, on a commanding eminence, near the road 
leading to Quill6ta, the gun shave all been dis- 
mounted, and the carriages are decayed for want of 
paint. Not even a gun-boat is kept in a state fit 
^or service, for the purpose of protecting the 
harbour. 

There is good anchorage at Valparaiso, the 
greater part of the year, viz., from September to 
April inclusive ; and plenty of provisions are to be 
had on reasonable terms. Ship's biscuit is now regu- 
Wly baked, and beef salted and corned here, for 
the use of vessels, by two Englishmen, Messrs 
M'Farlane and Potts. They have built a large esta- 
blishment in the Almendral, for the purpose of 
supplying shipping, on a scale which has astonished 
the natives of the place. Water is far from being 
good, and is difficult to be procured ; all that is used 
in the port being bought from the aguat^rosy or 
water-carriers, who bring it down on their should- 
ers from the upper Quebrddas, beyond the washer- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 285 

women's stations, in small barrels. These ravines 
afford a very precarions supply ; being nearly dry 
in the sommer, and so muddy in the rainy season, 
as to be frequently unfit for use. Ships generally 
water at the Almendral, where there is a well be- 
long^ing to an Englishman, whence the water is 
drawn by means of a wheel, worked by men 
walking round inside. 

The market, in the Recova, is generally well 
supplied with meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit ; but, 
as the supply depends entirely on the villages, and 
farms, at a considerable distance from the port, any 
very bad weather causes a temporary scarcity. It 
sometimes happens, also, that the butchers who 
attend the market, and who, having all small farms, 
do not entirely depend for their subsistence on the 
sale of the meat, agree among themselves not to 
supply the port, until some unpopular alcabdla^ or 
market due, which they consider oppressive, has 
been repealed. 

Considerable quantities of a sea- weed, found on 
this coast, called cuchayuyo, is sold in the Recova, 
for consumption in the port, and to be conveyed 
on mules to the capitaL It is a favorite article of 
food with the Chilenos, especially during Lent, and 
on dias de ayunar throughout the year. It is always 
toasted on the embers until it becomes brittle, 
previous to cooking ; and is either stewed, or fried 
with batter, in both which ways it is very palatable, 
and considered highly nourishing. 

During the summer, that is, from the beginning 
of September to the end of April, the wind blows 
here constantly from the Southward, varying oc- 



286 CAMPAIGNS AND CBUISES. 

casionally a few points on either hand. The har- 
bour being completely secured by hills on that side, 
and towards the East, the anchorage is perfecdy 
secure at this season, from any wind capable oC 
raising a dangerous sea. But, in the aftemoons, 
the wind, which has not as yet been felt in the 
harbour, although it has been blowing hard outside, 
seems at last to have accimiulated at the back of 
the peninsula forming the port, and pours over 
it, sweeping down impetuously into the bay. It con- 
tinues for some hours to blow through the Que- 
bradas, with such undiminished violence, as fre- 
quently to cause ships to drive quite out of the 
anchorage ; especially, if they lie opposite the Al- 
mendrAl, where, from the exposed situation they 
are in, they experience its greatest fury. It is 
found particularly unpleasant to be out of doors at 
that time ; and it is actually difficult to stand against 
the violent gusts. The coarse sand is driven against 
the face, so forcibly as to give pain ; and the light 
dust, and earth from the hills, is carried in columns 
to such an height, as to fall at a considerable dis- 
tance in the harbour, among the shipping. The 
streets are 'quite deserted, and the inhabitants close 
their doors, and burn candles while this wind lasts ; 
for the dust penetrates even trunks and drawers, 
and covers all the furniture in the houses. 

During the remaining months, but more especially 
in June and July, it is advisable for those vessels, 
which are obliged to remain in this port, to moor 
securely ; taking care, if possible, to have no ship 
lying to the northward of them ; for most of the 
mischief, sustained here in a gale of wind, is always 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES* 287 

observed to take place in consequence of one vessel 
driving foni of another. At this time of the year, 
stiff gales, accompanied by heavy rain, may be ex- 
pected from the North and North West ; and, as 
the month of the harbonr is completely open to the 
Pacific, the sea that tumbles in on those occasions is 
very dangerous. A gale of this sort may generally 
be foreseen, by the unusual transparency of the air. 
A mountain, bearing North of the small port of 
Quintero, with two hummocks on the top, called 
La Silla del Gobemadory may be distinctly seen, 
previous to a temporal, although rarely visible at 
other times. This appearance, and a thick cloud, 
(known by the name of the table-cloth,) resting on / 
the hills above the village of Vina del Mar, are 
warnings that may be depended upon, as confidently 
as a barometer. The sea rises first, and is soon 
followed by the wind, which generally continues to 
blow with great violence, for two or three days. 
During this time, it is almost impossible either to 
land, or to get off on board ; unless perhaps during 
a lull, in a whale boat from the arsenal ; conse- 
quently, vessels that are short of provisions or 
water may chance to be awkwardly situated. 
Scarcely a winter passes without the loss of several 
ssul ; and, as the shore is rocky for a considerable dis- 
tance, in exactly the place to which they generally 
drive, there is almost always a total loss of ship and 
cai^o, and frequently of the lives of all on board. 

In the winter of 1823, during a Norther, (as 
these gales are called,) eighteen vessels were to- 
tally lost in twenty-four hours. Those that were 
driven on a craggy point, called Cruz de Los Reyes, 



288 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

were dashed to pieces tbe moment they strndi:; 
and the sailors, who had climbed into the rigging, 
were thrown with violence among the rocks, and 
floating pieces of wood, where they perished, with- 
in fifty yards of the main street covered with spec- 
tators, who were unable to render them any as- 
sistance whatever. The vessels that drifted on 
shore, at the sandy beach of the AlmendrJd, were 
more fortunate ; for the Huazos, or crioles of the 
interior, who thronged the beach, rode fearlessly 
into the surf, and rescued every man as he ap- 
proached the shore, by means of the lazo. 

The Lion, an East India ship, which lay dose to 
the Independencia, was one of the number lost 
She escaped being wrecked on the rocks, throi^h 
the good seamanship and activity of the captain ; 
who, at the moment he perceived her beginning to 
drive, cut the cables, hoisted the jib, and succeeded 
in running her on to the sand. In one of the vessels 
lost in the same place, (I think the Louisa,) was 
the captain's wife, an Englishwoman, with an in 
fant at the breast. She had the presence of mind 
to wrap her child up carefully, and enclose it in a 
trunk, having given notice of her intention to the 
Huazos on the beach, (by some of the sailors who 
swam ashore,) that they might be in readiness to 
receive it. When she perceived that the attention 
of the crowd was fixed on the ship, she threw the 
trunk overboard, and watched it as it was borne by 
the surf towards the shore, where the Huazos drew it 
out instantly with their lazos. Having opened it, 
they found the infant quite safe ; for scarcely any 
water had oozed into the trunk, during the short 



CAICPAIONS AND CRUISBi. 289 

time it was st the mercy of the waves. Having 
seen her child in safety, the mother did not long 
hesitate to follow through the tremendous sea that 
was running ; and, as her courage and presence of 
mind deserved, was also happily saved by the 
Huazos. 

However ready the Chil6nos may be to assist 
the shipwrecked, they consider merchandise of 
every desmption, when washed on shore from the 
wreck, to be their own property, and immediately 
take possession of them ; notwithstanding the pre- 
cautions used by government, in sending a guard 
to protect the vessels when stranded. As the sol- 
diers have been bred up, from their infimcy, in the 
belief that every wreck is fieur plunder, they cannot 
be supposed very strict in guarding them from de- 
predation. So &r are they frt>m it, that they give 
ev^ry facility to their friends, of securing and con- 
veying away goods. For some months, after any 
vessels have been lost, the hills in the neighbour- 
hood of the port may be seen covered, in many 
places, with pieces of cloth, and difiBerent kinds of 
stufG^ spread out to dry. Many valuable articles, 
also, are offered for sale in the streets, by the 
poorer dass, who openly boast that they saved them 
from the wreck, and therefore can afford to sell 
them cheap. 

Earthquakes are of frequent occurrence in Chile ; 
so much so, that it is considered singular if a month 
elapse without one at least being felt. Neverthe- 
less, the inhabitants, whom one would expect to 
find so accustomed to the shocks, as to have in a 
g^reat measure lost their dread of them, are always 

o 



290 CAMPAlOKg AND GBUI8E8. 

much more terrified on these occasions than f<^ 
reigners. A hollow rambling noise is frequently 
heard, proceeding from the moontains, called a 
riUdo* This is not always attended by an earth- 
quake ; but is much dreaded by the natiyes, not- 
withstanding its daily recurrence. These riiidos, 
and the slighter kind of earthquakes, are hardly 
ever perceived by strangers on their first arrival in 
S. America ; nor can foreigners be for some time 
made sensible of them, except by the panic which 
appears to seize the inhabitants, who rush oat into 
the streets, with a total disregard to dishabille ; 
beating their breasts, praying to La Sefiora del 
Carmen, and exclaiming '^ Misericordia Senor /*' 

A few months after our arrival in Chile, on the 
19th of November, 1822, an earthquake was fth 
throughout the whole of that country ; and even 
as far to the Southward as the Archipelago of 
Chiloe. This was by far the most severe that had 
been experienced, within the memory of the oldest 
inhabitants; and struck with terror even those 
foreigners who had been accustomed to similar 
phenomena in other countries. The day had been 
unusually calm and sultry for that season ; and, as 
we afterwards recollected, there had been a heavy 
swell all day in the harbour, without any appear- 
ance of wind outside, although it was no longer 
the time of year for variable gales. At half-past 
ten at night, the first shock was felt. It forta- 
nately did not commence with much severity ; so 
that it gave warning to many of the inhabitants to 
escape out of doors. Another, however, followed, 
after a momentary interval ; and continued with 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 291 

such Tiolence, that, in a few seconds, ereiy chnrch 
in Valparaiso was redaced to a heap of rains. 
Hie Ooremor's palace also, in which the Director 
Don Bernardo O'Higgins was residing at the time; 
almost every private house ; and the greater part 
even of the low rarmhos were destroyed, or ren- 
dered uninhabitable, by being unroofed, and having 
the wall rent in every direction. 

The only house, of any considerable size, that 
escaped without sustuning some severe injury, 
was one of three stories high ; — ^that built on the 
beadi by Mr. Price. This house was considered, 
from its height, much more likely to be damaged 
by an earthquake, than any other in the port ; and 
the danger was apparently increased by its stand- 
ing alone, unsupported by any adjoining buildings. 
Its safety may be attributed to its resting on a solid 
foundation, which was at that time unusual, and 
was considered by the native architects an unavail- 
ing precaution. But it has since been ascertained, 
beyond a doubt, that, although the whole of the 
surface appears to be equally agitated by an earth- 
quake, the shocks do not take such effect on houses 
built on a deep-seated foundation, or on a rock, as 
elsewhere. The houses in the Almendrdl, in par- 
ticular, which is a sandy soil, were so instantane- 
ously overthrown, that many of the inhabitants 
perished in the ruins. The church of La Merced, 
in the same part, was more suddenly and tho- 
roughly destroyed than the others ; although it had 
been so substantially built, that the tower, of solid 
brick- work, did not break into fragments, when it 
was thrown over, but rested with its summit on the 



292 CABIPAION8 AND CRUISES. 

ground, and the fractured part upwards, supported 
by the ruins. 

The ruidOf accompanying this earthquake^ was 
appalling. Instead of the usual hollow rumUing 
sound, it more nearly resembled bursts of subter- 
ranean thunder, attended by a rushing noisey like 
that of a torrent sweeping rocks and lai^e stones 
along in its headlong course ; and, occasionally, by 
an indescribably hideous grinding, as if extensiye 
strata of the solid granite beneath the hills were 
forcibly displaced. Beside this, the crashing &I1 
of churches and other buildings, the screams of the 
startled inhabitants, and the howling of the dogs that 
swarm in the streets, united to form a most terrifii: 
concert, which we who were afloat, and compara- 
tively out of danger, could not listen to without 
shuddering. 

A party of marines was immediately landed from 
each ship, for the protection of the ruined custom- 
house, and the tottering stores of the princ^ 
native and foreign merchants. While employed 
in this duty, we had full leisure to look round on 
the horrors attending an earthquake of the first 
magnitude, as this certainly was. Many of the 
inhabitants were killed at once, in their beds. 
Others, who had escaped into the open air, were 
knocked down by the falling tiles, and crushed to 
death under walls, in attempting to fly through the 
narrow streets. The confusion was dreadful; 
every open space being crowded with frig^tives, dis- 
tracted by terror, mostly half naked; for the 
greater part had sprung from their beds at the 
first alarm, and had afterwards no leisure to think 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 293 

of clotking. They continued to run about, with- 
out any settled object, beating their breasts and 
praying alond ; most of them enqiuring, in agonies 
of fear, for their parents and children. At the same 
time, bands of roiozos were seen wandering about 
the deserted streets, and taking the opportunity of 
this awfbl Tisitation to rob the houses. Many of 
these wietdies were afterwards found, buried under 
the mins, with plunder of various sorts still in 
their grasp. To add to the horrors of the night, 
fires broke out in several parts of the port and 
Almendrdly in consequence of the dry thatch of the 
ranehos fidling on the hearths, that are always in 
the centre of the huts. 

O^Higgins, the Director of Ohfle, had a very 
narrow escape. He fell down under the gateway 
of the palace, being rather a corpulent man, and 
was dragged from thence by his aide-de-camp, 
Don Enrique Lazala, just before the whole fabric- 
fell forward into the Rec6va. The captain and 
mate of a small English sloop, lying in the har- 
bour, were both dangerously ill at Lacey's tavern, 
on shore, in consequence of the numerous severe 
wounds they had received a few nights before, from 
robbers who had boarded and plundered the vessel. 
They were actually so weak, from loss of blood, as 
to be incapable of sitting up, on the evening before 
the earthquake commenced. But, when they per- 
ceived that the house they were in was in imminent 
danger of fiedling, and that every body had fled, and 
left them to their fate, the alarm g^ve them tempo- 
rary strength sufficient to rise, and totter down to 
the beach* There they arrived in safety, having 



294 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

found their way through the narrowest part of the 
falling buildings. Among very many other fatal 
accidents, Mr. Ford, of the Almenddd, with his 
wife and children, was buried under the ruins of his 
house, at which I was to have slept that night, had 
I not been unexpectedly ordered on duty afloat. 

After the first danger had in some measure sub- 
sided, although the shocks continued at intervals 
during the night, and for weeks after, the inhabi- 
tants retired to the neighbouring hills. There they 
collected in groups round the Padres, confessing 
their sins aloud by way of penance, and telling 
their beads with great devotion. Several men 
stripped themselves naked, from the wiust upwards, 
and scourged themselves with bunches of thorns, 
until their shoulders *were lacerated, and covered 
with blood. It was observable, that not a few of 
those who were anxiously inquiring after the &te 
of their relations and friends, (for many families 
were separately scattered for some days after the 
earthquake,) had not forgotten, in the midst of 
their alarm, to secure their crucifixes, and fiEiYourite 
images of saints, some nearly as large as life, which 
they carried about them, regardless of fatigue. 

On board the ships in the bay, the earthquake 
was felt in a greater degree than could have been 
supposed possible. The vessels were shaken as 
roughly as if they had been grazing over a rocky 
shoal, with a sensation similar to that caused by 
several heavy casks of water, when rolled along 
the decks ; while, at the same time, the chain- 
cables were violently rattled. The sea boiled up 
in a succession of short waves, like a ripple caused 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 295 

by the meetmg of two strong currents. The 
launches, used in the harbour for loading and un- 
loading vessels, which were moored about a hun- 
dred yards from the landing place, were suddenly 
left dry. It was then greatly apprehended, that 
the sea would retire from the anchorage, and rush 
in ag^ain, (as had been the case during the dreadful 
earthquake at GaUao^) to the destruction of every 
thing afloat and ashore, both in the port and the 
AlmendrdL 

Several sand-banks were raised, and the sound- 
ings materially altered, in Valparaiso bay. The 
little harbour of Quintero, where vessels used pre- 
viously to anchor in 2j^ to 3 fathoms, was ruined 
as a port ; for the bottom was permanently raised 
four feet on the night of the 22d. The strata of 
shells, on the adjoining coast, which have been em- 
ployed for centuries in making lime, were elevated, 
by the same agency, nearly a fathom from their 
former level. The coasters, which arrived at Val- 
paraiso subsequently to the earthquake, reported 
that a very considerable alteration in sounding had 
taken place, near the land and in the little harbours 
which they frequented, for two degrees along the 
coast. 

A brilliant meteor passed over Chile during the 
night; and greatly augmented the alarm of the 
terrified inhabitants. Day light at length came ; 
bnt it was to disclose the melancholy spectacle of a 
ruined and deserted city. The people were seen, 
in disconsolate groups on the hills, without shelter, 
without food, and many without sufficient clothing ; 
and, as the trembling motion of the earth scarcely 



296 CAMPAIGNS AND CBUISBS. 

ceased for a moment, it was higbly dai^^eroiu to 
Yentare among the tottering honiies in quest of 
anything. Many, however, braved the danger, 
and continued to dig in the rnins for the mangled 
bodies of their friends who had perished ; while 
others were employed in searching for clothing, 
and other articles, that might be of service to them 
in the bivonac they had established cm the hills. . 

This calamity was not confined to Valparaiso,' 
for every town and village suffered, more or less, 
by the earthquake. As the farm-houses near the 
coast, and especially those in the neighbourhood of 
this port, had been ail nearly destroyed, no provi- 
sions were brought in from the country for several 
days. This occasioned the greatest distress, par* 
ticularly among the poorer class, who had no means 
of sending to the plantations to procure food. It 
was found neessary for the Governor to order 
sentries to be placed at the few bakers' ovens, 
which had escaped the general destruction, to pre- 
vent the famishing populace from seizing on, and 
devouring the half-baked loaves. The English and 
French hotels, too, which had contrived to procure 
bread for their customers who boarded there, wwe 
obliged to apply for a guard. The corridors in 
front of these houses were thronged all day with 
women, — some of them of a very respectable ap- 
pearance, — who held up their infants to the win- 
dows, imploring for bread to keep them from 
starving. 

As there are no trees on the neighbouring hills, 
and only a few shrubs in the Quebrddas, scarcely 
any had it in their power to erect huts for shelter 



CAMPAIOirS AHD CRUUBS. 297 



even firom the luii. To add to their miseries, a 
Tery hesvy thower of rmin came on, at this unusual 
season of the year, and continued, without inter- 
mission, nearly a whole night; causing torrents 
among the hills, that actually swept away some of 
the beds and furniture, which had been rescued 
from thendna. 

Miafortnnes of this kind are speedily forgotten, 
in countries where they are frequently experienced ; 
and, in a few weeks, the inhabitants commenced 
rebnihiing thebr houses, on the same spots of 
ground where they had previously stood. This 
was the work of a short time ; for almost aD baild- 
inga in Chfle are constructed of addbesy bricks dried 
in the son ; and the ruins of one house are easily 
worked up into materials to build another. 

These addbes are made of a brownish clay, which 
is moistened, and trod to a proper thickness by 
men, and sometimes by bullocks. A quantity of 
these short splinters of straw, which has been broken 
by the hoofs of the cattle at the trilla, is mixed 
with it, to g^ve it a firmer consistence, and to make 
it adhere better together. It is then formed in 
wooden moulds, to the proper sized bricks, which 
are generally eighteen inches long, nine broad, and 
six thick. These are laid flat in the sun to dr}% 
and, after being repeatedly turned, are set on their 
edges, by which means they are usually fit for 
building within ten days or a fortnight. The mor- 
tar, used to cement these together, is merely com- 
posed of an unctuous red earth, found on the hills. 
This is sifted fine, and mixed with water to the 
proper consistence. Although no lime is ased with 

o3 



!^98 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

it, it is very tenacious, and answers every purpose 
of mortar made with sand and lime, for building 
with adobes. 

In constructing a house in this manner, it is 
necessary to finish only a part of the walls at a 
time ; one story being generally covered with thatch 
along the top of the new wall, which is then left 
to acquire the necessary hardness and strength, 
before another story, or the roof is added. By 
this precaution, the houses will last for any length 
of time, if the upper part of the walls be defended 
from rain. As the tiles burned in Chile have only 
one curve, there are necessarily two layers of them ; 
which make the roofs very heavy. No dates are 
to be procured ; but, in sea-port towns, they fre- 
quently roof their houses with planks, cat with a 
feather-edge, so as to overlap each other, and 
covered either with sheets of tin, or sul doth 
pitched within and without. The ranches are 
always thatched with straw or palm-leaves : these 
last are most frequently used, as affording a more 
perfect covering, and being plentiful in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

Walls, for enclosing farms and plantations, are 
also constructed of a larger kind of ad6bes. The 
moulds for these are made of strong planks, six feet 
long, by three in depth, and about eighteen indies 
in breadth. Layers of marie, rather more care- 
lessly prepared, and mixed with sifted gravel, are 
placed in these, and beaten down hard with a 
mazittty or rammer. When the mould is full, it ii 
taken off, and removed to another place ; the same 
process being repeated, until the ^^ ^ finished, 
to the requisite height and length* 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 299 

The distance between Valparaiso and Santiago 
is about thirty leagues. The road is broad enough 
for two waggons to pass ; and is tolerably good 
during the summer, after its annual repair in the 
spring. After a few weeks heavy rain in winter, 
the appearance of the road is totally changed. 
Every declivity is then torn up, by the force of the 
water, into broad and deep g^ullies. These it is in 
vain to think of filling up, any otherwise than in a 
temporary way, by logs of wood, and branches of 
trees, until the dry weather returns, and allows of 
a thorough substantial repair; which must, however, 
be repeated every year. In the lower parts of the 
road, the mud is in many places so deep, that the 
mules are obliged to be unloaded, and dragged out 
by ropes ; and the waggons are buried up to the 
axletrees, and frequently cannot be extricated, 
without taking them o£P the wheels, and carrying 
them on the shoulders of several peons, over the 
bad passes ; for the united streng^ of eight or ten 
yokes of oxen is insufficient to drag them through. 
The rivers of Curicavi and PndagtLel also swell so 
much, that passengers on horseback are obliged to 
swim across ; and carriages of every kind are often 
delayed for weeks, there being neither bridges nor 
canoes. 

The carrita^ or bullock waggon of Chfle, is of a 
very clumsy construction, aiid so heavily built, that, 
even when empty, it requires nearly the whole 
strength of a yoke of oxen to move it. The body 
is merely a heavy wooden frame, about eight feet 
long, by four wide, and rests on a very strong axle- 
tree, which the carret^rot themselves cut out of any 



I. 

i 



300 CjIMPAlGNS AND CRUiaKS. 

tree near the road, that suits their purpose ; for it 
seldom lasts more than two joumies. This part is 
roughly squared with the axe, and rounded at the 
ends where the wheels trayerse, to about six inehes 
in thickness. There are only two wheels to the 
carr^, the naves of which are solid rough- hewn 
blocks of wood, of a double sugar-loaf shape ; gener- 
ally made of a stump of the piumo or algaroba^ for 
the purpose of toughness ; and fully two feet in 
diameter. The spokes are stout^ and clumsy in 
proportion to their length, and the felloes are near- 
ly a foot in breadth, and six inches thick. Outside 
these are fixed sobre-^xtmcu^ or second fidloes, 
which are quite as substantial as the inner ones, and 
are secured to them by strong wooden pins. The 
pole, to which the axle is fastened, is equally solid 
and rough ; and the yokes for the oxen, although 
they are cut out with some attention to neatness, 
are so heavy, that they keep the animals* heads con- 
stantly hanging down. The harness is made en- 
tirely of I aw hide ropes, twisted together. On the 
waggon is built a tilt, or rather a hut, with branches 
of trees, covered with hides. There are, in general, 
three yokes of oxen to each carr^ta. These are 
driven with a long goad, as the carret^ro always 
sits on the roof of tlie tilt, where the roads are 
good and straight. On descending a steep hill, he 
unyokes the two foremost pairs of oxen, and fastens 
them, by the horns, to the back of the waggon, 
where their obstinate resistance to being pulled for- 
ward operates as a drag. Without this contrivance, 
thecarr^tas would, inevitably, fall over the precipices, 
on the edges of which most of the winding mountain 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 301 

roads run. This is sometimes the case, notwith- 
standinij^ all their precautions ; for there are no 
parapets whatever to guard against such an accident. 

There is never more than one carret^ro to a 
waggon ; for which reason, and for the protection 
of the goods, they always travel in parties of six or 
eight, under the charge of a capatazy or conductor, 
who has the command of the whole. They mutu- 
ally assist each other with the loan of bullocks, in 
bad passes, and while ascending steep hills ; also in 
repairing the waggons, when they meet with any 
accident. They take turns in looking after the 
bullocks, at night, and during the excessive mid- 
day heat, at which times the cattle are unyoked, 
and turned loose to feed by the road side. In dry 
seasons, when grass is scarce in these places, large 
bundles of broken straw are carried for the bullocks, 
on the top of the carr^tas. 

The number of the carret^ros, and the character 
they all have for strength and intrepidity, are a 
great protection to the valuable merchandize they 
are constantly conveying to and from the city and 
port ; as all the roads through Chile are, more or 
less, infested by robbers. The honesty, also, of these 
men is proverbial. Merchants are in the habit of 
entrusting them with large sums of money, which 
they invariably deliver in safety; and there has 
never been an instance known of their betraying 
the confidence reposed in them. The pay of the 
carreteros is very trifling ; being only two dollars 
and a half, without being found in provisions, for 
each journey during the summer. This season is 
reckoned to be two thirds of the year ; and they 



302 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

are generally, at that time, six or seyen days per- 
forming each journey. During the winter months, 
their wages are raised to three dollars and a half; 
although they then never occupy less than ten days 
or a fortnight on the road, and are frequently de- 
layed more than a month. Besides the accidents 
constantly happening to the carr^tas, the floods 
often retard them for many days, for which no al- 
lowance is made hy their employers. 

The arrUros, or muleteers, receive even less 
wages than the carret^ros, on account of the shorter 
time in which they perform their journeys; although 
their labour is much more severe, except that they 
ride instead of walking. There are only two 
arrHros and a boy allowed to a drove, consisting, 
perhaps, of eighty or more mules, all of which they 
have to load and unload twice a day, besides the 
trouble they constantly have with the loads that 
become loose on the road, and with the beasts that 
fall down and stick in the mud. They have also 
to collect them in the morning and afternoon, when 
they have grazed sufficiently, and to watch them 
by turns during the night ; for they always turn 
them loose on commons, from which they are very 
apt to stray to a considerable distance, in search of 
better pasture. These* droves are led along the 
roads, and even through crowded streets, by the 
sound of a zinzerrOf or small brass bell, hung to 
the neck of a brood mare. She is called, by the 
Huazos, Le Madrfnay or the godmother; and is 
always led by a boy in front of the mules. They 
have never any bridle or halter ; but when loading 
and unloading, the arrihvs cover their head with 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 303 

a ponchO) which keeps them immovable as long as 
their eyes are hid by it. 

This poTicho^ or mania as it is also called, is uni- 
yersally, and at all times, worn by the Chilenos ; 
except by such as affect to dress in the English 
style. Many even of the foreign residents wear it 
on a journey ; for it is a most convenient dress, 
covering the body and knees when on horseback, 
and leaving the arms perfectly at liberty. It is a 
square kind of cloak, without sleeves, reaching down 
to the knee ; and has a slit, in the centre, for the 
head to pass through. That kind, which is chiefly 
used by the carret^ros andarrieros, is made of coarse 
woollen yam, dyed black, with red stripes at the 
edges. Others are made of a thick cotton stuff, 
manufactured for the purpose in small looms ; 
and are generally of a white ground, with broad 
stripes of various colours. The handsomest pon- 
chos are wrought in Peru, where they are also 
called rudnas. The colours, of which the yam used 
for making these is dyed, are very brilliant and 
lasting. Many have been dug out of the huacos of 
the ancient inhabitants, with the colours as bright 
as they were when new. 



304 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



HUAZOS' COSTUME. SUPERSTITIOKS. CHINGANAS.— 

HORSE BACING. NATIONAL DANCES. ^THE RODEO.— 

MARKING THE CATTLE. WILD BULLS. FEATS OP 

HORSEMANSHIP. — HAWKING. — HUNTING THE VICUNA.— 

VINEYARDS IN CHILE. HORSES EXPORTED. CHARQUI. 

— LA POLILLA. — THE SCORPION AND TERANTULA.— 

RIVER BIO-BIO. INHABITANTS OF SANTIAGO. — THE 

ESTRADO. DRINKING THE MATE. DRESS OF THE CHI- 

LENAS. 



The Huazos, or mountaineers of Chile) (so 
called in distinction to the Chinos and Cholos of the 
coast,) are rarely, if ever, seen either abroad or al 
home, without a poncho. It is, indeed a higUy 
serviceable garment to them ; being impenetrable 
to the wet, and easily thrown off when necessary ; 
besides being applicable to various uses, serving 
alternately for table-cloth, gaming-table, and blan- 
ket, as well as for a cloak. The rest of their dress 
consists, in winter, of a white or dark blue felt cap, 
and, in summer, of a broad-brimmed sombrero, made 
of cogolhy or plaited palm-leaves ; a coarse blue 
frock fitting tight to the body , and purple plush 
breeches. The last mentioned articles are alwavs 
kept from falling by a faxay or broad sash, wound 
tight round the waist, instead of braces, which they 
never will use. The sash is of some gaudy colour, 
made of worsted or silk, with fringes at the ends ; 
and is used for a purse, their money being folded 
up tight in it. On their legs they wear a kind of 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 305 

gaiters, called bataSy which are made like long 
stockings, open at the sole of the feet, of a coarse 
woollen stu£P, dyed black. These reach half way 
up the thigh, and are doubled down nearly to the 
ande ; being tied below the knee with garters of 
coloured tape. Instead of shoes, they wear qj6kLSy 
which are a kind of brogues, made of undrest hide, 
sewed up at the heels and toes iHth thongs of the 
same. Above all, they never appear without heavy 
silver or iron spurs, with enormous rowels, in which 
they take great pride, and are highly pleased with 
the jingling sound made by them, as they walk 
along. 

The weapon which a Huaso always carries, is 
the cuchitto cachUlancOf or the long white-handled 
knife, which serves /or all domestic purposes, as 
wdl as for attack and defence. They are fami- 
liar with the use of this £rom childhood ; and draw 
it readily on the slightest provocation. It is worn 
in a sheath, either thrust into the botOy or stuck 
between the sash and the body. They also all 
have the bolzaf or purse, made of some small animal's 
skin, which they contrive to take off entire, with 
the exception of the holes where the head and legs 
are cut off, the skin of the tail being always left on 
it for an ornament. This undergoes no preparation, 
except being rubbed frequently in the hands to ren- 
der it supple ; and is used chiefly to carry tobacco, 
the flint and steel, and a tinder-box, usually made 
of the tip of a cow's horn, and filled with yezca, or 
dried fungus. Skins for holding wine, spirits, 
and chicha, are made in the same way, of a goat- 
skin. Salt butter is preserved in a sheep-skin, 



306 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

with the wool on; and lard is kept in a dried 
cow's stomach* 

The Hoazos are a well formed set of men, of 
a dark olive complexion, resembling that of the 
Gypsies; with hazle or black eyes, and coarse 
black hair, inclining slightly to curl, which snffi • 
ciently distinguishes them from the Indians. Some 
of them have red hair, and light eyes ; but this is 
by no means common, and is r^arded by them as 
an ugly blemish. The men take great care of their 
hair, and wear it plaited into a long queue, tied at 
the end with a black ribbon. Although very 
averse to hard work, they are exceedingly active, 
especially in their rural amusements, and are ca- 
pable of considerable exertion when necessary. 
They make by far the best seamen of any part of 
South America^ They are religious, or rathw 
superstitious, to an extreme ; complying scrupu- 
lously with all the fasts, and other observances and 
ceremonies of the Church of Rome. 

The existence of apparitions is firmly maintained 
by them ; in common with the natives of every 
other part of S. America. They also believe in 
various classes of supernatural beings ; as duendeSy 
or dwarfs, who are said by them to haunt particu- 
lar persons, to whom alone they are visible. These 
are represented as capricious fairies, lavish in the 
favours they confer when pleased ; but excessively 
prone to jealousy, and, when enraged, capable of 
inflicting any injury, short of death, on the former 
object of their affection. VuUoSy also, are dreaded 
as malicious spectral appearances, haunting deep 
glens, and lonely hills, usually seen towards day- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 307 

break, very mnch resembling a wreath of doud or 
mist ; and are said to be sure precursors of misfor- 
tune to those by whom they are seen. Brujas, 
too, or witches, are universally, andfirmly believed in. 

The Huazos are excessively fond of frequenting 
chmgdnoBy or dancing houses ; where they gene- 
rally make so free with the aguardiente, wine, and 
chicha, that quarrels are sure to take place, in 
which the cuckillo is used without ceremony. Few 
Sundays or feast days pass without some affiray, in 
whid& wounds are g^ven and received. These are, 
however, seldom mortaL They are very dexterous 
St warding o£P stabs with the poncho, which they 
wrap tightly round the left arm for that purpose ; 
and generally, when attacking, make cuts at the 
face, rather for the purpose of giving their adver- 
sary an ugly scar, than with the intention of inju- 
ring him seriously. This is so well understood in 
their affirays, that the byestanders seldom attempt 
to part the combatants, unless they observe that 
they b^^ to lose their temper. 

They are also great gamblers, both with cards and 
dice, St which they generally employ the greater 
part of their leisure hours, of which they have 
abundance. When they halt by the road side, to 
rest their horses and mules, they immediately make 
a circle round a poncho, and commence gambling. 
Such is their eagerness for this amusement, that 
they soon collect a group of lookers-on, who crowd 
round, and, even though they have no stake in the 
game, take as anxious and vociferous an interest in 
it, as those who play. Cock-fighting and horse- 
racing are &vourite diversions on feast days ; and 



808 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

at diese they will haiBard all the money they pos- 
sess, and every things belonging to them, except 
their l&vonrite horse. This, indeed, is always ex- 
cepted ; and such is a Hnaao's fondness for this 
animal, that their commom asseveration, or radier 
oath, is ^^ Que me muera mi m^or eabailOf'* — ** May 
my best horse die ! " 

A race, in Chile, is never mn by more than two 
horses at a time, and would excite but little interest 
among English sportsmen. It is always to decide 
a private bet, and the Huazos have no notion of 
several running for a plate, or sweepstakes. The 
horses are mounted by little boys, who stick to 
them like monkeys, without either saddle or bridle ; 
having merely a folded poncho g^hed on, and a 
halter, with a band round the horse's chest for the 
rider to lay hold hist by. As the length of the course 
is never more than a quarter of a mile, in a straight 
line, it may weU be supposed, that there is no time 
for jockeyship. Of this they have no idea, uid the 
horses run the whole distance at the top of their 
speed. As every inch of ground is of consequence 
in so short a race, the jitez, or umpire, is always a 
considerable time ranging the horses, so that their 
toes shall exactly touch a line drawn across the 
course ; and repeatedly calls them back, if they do 
not start at precisely the same instant of time. 

Running at the ring is also a customary exercise, 
at which they are very expert, although it is a very 
difficult feat to accomplish ; for the ring is hung 
loosely up, and must be brought o£F at the point of 
a sword, while they ride past at full speed. They 
will also, going at the same pace^ pick up any small 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 309 

piece of money from the ground. To do this, they 
hang to the saddle hy one knee and ancle, and re- 
gain their seat, with no other assistance, after per- 
forming the feat. Two of them, abo, frequently 
single each other out, and contend which shall pull 
the other out of his saddle ; holding each others 
hands, and spurring their horses in different 
directions. 

At the battle of Maypik, in which the fate of the 
Spaniards in Chile was decided, by the defeat of 
the President Osorio, the Huazos assembled from 
the neighbouriiood of QuiUota, Rancagua, and 
Aconcagua, in large irreg^ular parties ; and contri- 
buted, not a little, to the success of the patriots, 
with no other weapons but their lazos and cuchillos. 
^They hovered on the flanks of the Spanish army, 
jand, by making a sudden dash with their well ma- 
•' naged horses, succeeded in lazoing many officers, 
; whom they dragged at full gallop to the rear of the 
; patriot line, where they killed and stripped them. 
They also followed the regular cavalry, commanded 
by Col. Ramon Freyre, in a charge against the 
Spanish artillery, stationed on an eminence near 
the £Eurm-house of El Espejo ; and actually lazoed 
the field-pieces, and dragged them over the brow 
of the hill. 

The Huazas are much fairer in complexion, and 
smaller in stature, than the men of the same race. 
They are a cheerful set of women, mild and pleasing 
in their manners, and very hospitable and attentive 
to strangers. They form a pleasing contrast to 
their boisterous quarrelsome husbands and brothers ; 
not partaking of any of their amusements, except 



310 CAMPAIflHS AND CRDUBB. 

the faodango, of wliich thoy sre extremely fond. 
He fitroimte dances among' them are only pa* 
formed by two, who dance opposite to ead otho", 
and are occasionally reliered by one of the looken 
on, placing himself, without saying a word, beAn« 
one of the dancers, who is obliged immediately to 
resign his partner, and sit down. 

Tliese dances are chiefly pecnliar to the country, 
and have commonly Indian names, as theffumAmiibi, 
ZiqtMiniqm, and deftttpdMi ,- besides Spanish 
names taken from the words snng to the tnnes 
that are played for them, as the Qwmdo, Solita, 
and La Jvrga. The tnnes <rf all these are qnick 
and lively, except the Qnatido ; which dance com- 
mences like a minnet, and ends in a very r^id step 
called xapat^, from the noise made by stamping the 
shoes against the groond, both parties waving 
white handkerchiefs in their hands, as they move 
round in circles. Contradansas and ralsas are 
only danced by the npper dass, who oceammally 
perform many of the Hnaios' dances also ; singii^, 
however, Terses to them that are rather more pa- 
liahed, and inventing occasionally other songs aad 
tnnes, to the same steps and figures The refreA- 
ment always handed roand at J 
ptnche, made of smalt b 
cuMi plant boiled in w 
This beverage bein^ sn 
aguardiente, is usually c( 

In . 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES^ 311 

oat the country. This word literally signifies, the 
surrounding^ and implies the operation of collecting 
and driving together all the cattle on the ettancia^ 
for the purpose of taking account of them, and 
branding such as have not yet received the pro* 
prietor's mark ; which is always some strange look- 
ing hieroglyphic, as letters are never used for this 
purpose. In the rod^o, the good horsemanship of 
the Huazos, and their dexterity in the. use of the 
lazo, are conspicuously displayed* They are always 
many days in collecting the cattle from their usual 
feeding places, and assembling them at the corrals ; 
for, on large estates, the pastures are numerous, and 
several leagues apart. As the different herds ap- 
proach each other, their efforts to escape back to 
their favourite haunts cause a great deal of trouble, 
and even danger, to the horsemen. The old bulls, 
one of which leads each herd, on perceiving that 
they are surrounded, become enraged; and fre- 
quently succeed in breaking through the rod^o, in 
spite of every exertion that can be made to keep 
them back. The Huazos are obliged to follow the 
leading bull, at full speed, over the roughest ground 
imaginable, until they either succeed in heading 
him, or lazoing, and bringing him back by force. 

When the different herds are at length assem- 
bled, the noise of so many thousand head of cattb^ 
lowing and beUowing in concert, is deafening. 
When the mayordomo of the estate has selected 
those that are to be sold, and killed for charqui ; 
and has branded the young calves, which are tied 
up round the cordOs, for the purpose of detaining 
the cows in the neighbourhood of the farm house ; 



312 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the remainder of the cattle are tamed loose,, and 
desperate battles ensue between the bulls, before 
they can collect their respective herds. On some of 
the remote estancias near the Cordillera, and to- 
wards the province of Concepcion, the cattle are 
excessively wild ; and the bulls used to be much 
sought for, on account of their ferocity in the public 
arena, when bull-fighting was practised. Some of 
the old bulls, when dragged by force to the corral, 
where they were kept previous to a fight, shewed 
such determined obstinacy, that they plunged their 
horns in the ground ; and neither blows nor wounds 
could make them move firom this position. They 
refused both food and water, and died on the spot 
where they had fixed themselves. 

The horses are subsequently driven in and brand- 
ed; when as many young colts as may be re- 
quired, are selected, and broken in for service. 
Many extraordinary feats of activity are displayed 
at this time by the Huazos. One of them will seat 
himself on a bar, over the gate of the cordi], and 
watch the opportunity of a perfectly wild horse 
being turned out, to drop astride on his back as he 
rushes past, and sit him without either saddle or 
bridle, in spite of all his e£Ports to get rid of his 
burthen ; goading the animal all the time into 
madness with the long sharp spurs they all wear, 
until he is completely spent, and falls down quite 
exhausted. 

In the neighbourhood of Rancagua, and^the other 
small towns near the Cordiller^, hawks or fal- 
cons, called here halcdns, are tamed and trained for 
the purpose of catching partridges and other game. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIS£8. 313 

The halcdn is taught to drive the birds into low 
boshes, where they take shelter; and are easily 
taken by hand, being so terrified, as to be incapable 
of escaping. 

Ihe vicuna is also hunted on the farms at the 
foot of the Andes, in the winter, when the exces- 
sive cold and deep snows compel it to descend 
from its mountain haunts. A number of Indians, 
and peons from the neighbouring estancias, are 
collected; and, having formed a line round the 
Quebrdda where these animals have been seen, 
they g^radually enclose them, and drive them into 
some hollow glen, from whence there is no out -let. 
When they are thus enclosed, the hunters kill a 
great many with fire-arms, bows-and-arrows, and 
lazos ; until those that remain are driven to des- 
peration by the slaughter surrounding them, when 
they make a determined rush at the only passage 
by which they can escape, and force their way, 
trampling under foot every obstacle they meet with. 
llie flesh is considered as good as venison, and the 
fur, which is of a reddish brown, resembling the 
colour of dried rose leaves, makes excellent shawls 
and hats, being fully equal to that of the beaver, 
in fineness and silky appearance. 

The climate of Chile is too temperate for the 
sugar-cane, or cacao ; and very little tobacco is 
g^own in the country. Vines are very extensively 
cultivated, and a very good wine and brandy is 
made from the grapes. Three different kinds of 
beverage are also made of them, besides wine ; 
named, according to the methods of preparing them, 
chicha, chocoliy and zancochado. The two first are 

p 



314 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Indian terms ; the last is so called, from the jniee 
of the grape heing hoiled, preyions to its being 
fermented. This process, of course, increases the 
strength and sweetness of the liquor, by evapora- 
ting a portion of the watery parts. 

Wheat is also produced in abundance, and is 
exported from Valparaiso to Peru, and sometimes 
sent round Cape Horn, to Buenos Ayres and 
Monte Video. Horses and mules are exported in 
considerable numbers to the leeward coast ; where 
they command a high price. Of late years, some 
vessels, which have brought spars from the Sand- 
wich islands, have been freighted back with horses, 
as far as New South Wales, and Van Dieman's 
land. This has turned out a profitable speculation; 
for a horse, that would not cost more t^ian ei^t 
dollars or half a doubloon, in Chile, especially if 
bought at the estancias in the interior, can be sold 
at those settlements for eighty or ninety pounds ; 
consequently, if only half the number shipped should 
ai'rive there in safety, they would pay all expences, 
and leave a handsome profit. 

Considerable quantities of charqui are dried at 
the cattle farms here, without the use of salt. It is 
packed in lios, weighing each two quintals, and a 
great deal is exported for sale along the coast of 
Peru and Mexico ; besides what is consumed in 
Chile, where the generality of the inhabitants pre- 
fer beef in this state to fresh meat. ^•' The iios are 
bales made by covering the long slender pieces, and 
ribs, with flat slices of zezina and malhayay which 
are considered the best parts, and are those which 
lie next the skin on the belly and flanks of the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 315 

bullock. The whole is laced up in a square pack- 
9ge, by thongs of raw hide, half an inch broad, 
which form a network over the jerked beef, so as 
to admit the air. In charqui, which has either got 
damp, or been made any length of time, a hairy 
maggot, called polilfa^ is very apt to breed. It 
speedily reduces the beef to powder, unless it is 
often opened out, and exposed to the sun. This 
insect is also very destructive to dried hides, in 
which it makes holes, and soon destroys them, if it 
be not prevented by taking the hides occasionally 
out of store, and beating them with stout sticks. 
After passing into the chrysalis state, this maggot 
changes into a small black beetle. 

Chile produces no poisonous reptiles whatever, 
for the sting of the tehtianque, found in the lower 
Cordillera, and of the alacran^ which infests the 
rocky country of Coquimbo, though both are species 
of scorpions, is by no means dangerous. The only 
venomous insect from which serious consequences 
are to be apprehended, is the arana colmilluda^ 
or tarantula. The bite of this spicier causes fever 
and delirium, terminating fatally in some instances. 
The native surgeons, notwithstanding their timidity 
as practitioners, always reconunend the excision of 
the flesh surrounding the wound, in these cases, if 
possible. Mosquitos are scarcely ever known to 
be troublesome ; except perhaps on the banks of 
the great river Bio-bio. This is the largest stream 
on the West coast of S. America, with the ex- 
ception perhaps of the river Guayaquil. It rises in 
the Cordillera, beyond Talca, and winds tlirough 
the extensive plains of Araiico, until it runs into 

p2 



316 CAMPAIGNS ND CRUISES. 

the sea close to the harbour of Talcahuano. It is 
not navigable at the mouth, on account of a bar 
running across it ; but is of a considerable depth, 
and more than a mile broad, higher up, near the 
city of Concepcion. The other large river of Chile 
is the Maiili, which runs through the province of 
Concepcoin, and empties itself into the small har- 
bour of Maiili. Many small coasting vessels are 
built there ; and the English settlers have latteriy 
launched some fine brigs in the river ; but the port 
is little frequented, on account of a dangerous bar. 

The inhabitants of Santiago are a very cheerful 
hospitable people. They are fond of the society of 
foreigners, especially the English, for whose conn- 
try and national character they profess great es- 
teem, and speak always with the greatest respect 
and gratitude of " el gran Canning.*' Their favorite 
amusements are dancing and music ; in both which 
siccomplishments they excel most South Americans. 
Gambling is also carried to a great excess here, 
especially at the favorite game of morUe, at which 
thousands of dollars often depend on the fate of a 
single card. 

The salay or drawing room, in which they usu- 
ally receive company, is furnished in most old 
fashioned houses in the city, and universally in the 
country villages and farms, with an estrado. This 
is a platform, usually facing the door, about half a 
foot high, and four or five feet broad, covered 
with mats or carpeting, in which all the ladies of 
the family, and their visitors, sit by themselves ; 
while a row of very low chairs is appropriated to 
the use of the gentlemen, in a different part of the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 317 

room. Here the men smoke their cigars, and dis- 
cuss the politics of the day, scarcely ever addressing 
their conversation to the ladies ; who, on their 
side, smoke cigarillos, made of tohacco rolled up in 
thin slips of the maiz leaf, and occasionally, when 
requested, play on the guitar and sing. This un- 
sociable custom is fast wearing away; and the 
Chil6na ladies appear to be particularly pleased by 
the foreigners always joining the party at the es- 
tradoy listening to their singing, and entering into 
conversation with them. This was, at first, con- 
sidered a solecism in breeding ; but, from being 
excused, in consideration of the strangers* igno- 
rance of the customs of the country, it has gra- 
dually become fashionable. In truth, the society 
and conversation of the females, in every part of S. 
America, is far preferable to that of the men. 
Latterly, some families, who affected to follow the 
English manners, were beginning to give tea-par- 
ties ; but it will be many years before they are 
entirely weaned from the use of the mate and 
hombilla. 

The former is a small cup, generally made of 
silver, and, among the poorer sort, of black clay, or 
a small gourd, of an oval shape, with a stand of the 
same material. It takes its name from the mate, or 
calabash, which was originally, and is still among 
the country people used for this purpose. Some 
leaves and pounded twigs of the yerva de Paraguay 
having been put into this, with a little sugar, and 
sometimes lemon peel, boiling water is poured on 
it, and the infusion is sucked through a hombiHa, 
or tube of silver, tin, or reed, having a bulb at one 



318 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIfiBS. 

end pierced with holes, to prevent the dost of the 
leaves passing into the month. The mdte is handed 
round to all the company ; and it is by no means 
unusual for the black servant, who oflPers it, to taste 
if the liquor it contains be sufficiently sweet, pre- 
viously to presenting it. The infusion is always 
taken so scalding hot, as to do much mischief to 
the teeth ; but it is considered quite unpolite to 
allow it to cool. 

The Chil^nas dress, at present, much like the 
English ladies ; except that they will, on no oc- 
casion, wear a bonnet, and merely cover their heads 
with a shawl when they go out of doors. They 
very justly consider their raven locks a far more 
becoming ornament than any artificial covering; 
and, as even the very poorest females take the 
greatest pains in plaiting and adorning their hair, 
they take a decent pride in letting it be seen. The 
shawl is considered a necessary part of the dress by 
all ranks ; the peasantry wearing, instead of silk or 
crape, a rebdzo, which is a square piece of coarse baiie. 
This they wear at all times, even when cooking, or 
performing any other household occupation ; and 
appear quite ashamed if accidentally seen without 
it, or, as they express it, "«» ctteffo" When they 
attend mass, they all wear a black dress, with a 
mantilla ; and even the mendicants have some tat- 
tered black clothes, which they carefully reserve * 
for this purpose. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 31i> 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

ROAD FROM VALPARAISO TO SANTIAGO. CUESTA DK ZA. 

PATA. — MORNING VIEW OF CASA BLANCA. CAXON 1)1, 

ZAPATA. BUSTAMENTE. ESPINO WOOD. CUESTA DK 

PRADO. PLAIN OF SANTIAGO. VIEW CF THE ANDES. 

FORD OF PUDAGUEL. ENTRANCE OF THE CAPITAL. 

PLAZA MAYOR. — WATER CARRIERS. — PUBLIC BUILDINOS. 

SCHOOLS. CHURCH PLATE. PUBLIC PENANCE. — 

BEARING THE CROSS. FEAST OF CORPUS CHRISTI. — 

PROCESSION OF SAN PEDRO BY WATER. CASA DE EXKIl- 

CISIOS. 

The high road from Valparaiso to the capital 
passes over two very steep and high mountains, 
called Cuestas, up which a serpentine road has been 
cut, with a great deal of trouble and expense. 
One of these, called La Cuesta de Zapata, is near 
the village of Casa Blanca ; and the other, by far 
the hi^est, la Cuesta de Prado, is between the 
post house of Bustamente, and the lagoon of Pu- 
dagiieL The number of windings on these roads 
is of course considerable, to render the ascent gra- 
dual enough to admit of the heavy loaded carretas 
being drawn up. On the Cuesta de Prado, there 
are no less than fifty- six traverses. The hills, 
along which these are cut, being excessively steep, 
there is barely room allowed for two carr tas t(» 
pass ; the inside of each turn of the road rising 
perpendicularly to the edge of the next. 

These Cuestas are peculiarly liable to be injured 
by heavy rains, which form deep g^ies in them ; 
the road, being composed of a rocky ground, fre- 
quently falls in, being either undermined by the 



320 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

wet, or, as is frequently the case, shaken down by 
earthquakes. Each traverse, when overwhehned 
by the gravel and stones that fall on these occa- 
sions, is easily cleared again ; but it is almost im- 
possible to fill up the gullies securely; and the 
narrow space, allowed for the windings, will not 
admit of any encroachment on the side of the hill, 
for the purpose of avoiding any bad pass. One 
side of the Cuesta, at which the parallel windings 
turn, rises perpendicularly from the valley ; and if 
the strength of the oxen ascending it were to £ul, 
or the pole suddenly to break, (which often occurs 
even on level ground,) nothing could prevent the 
carr^ta from backing over a precipice of several 
hundred yards. 

The view, on looking back from the first Cuesta, 
extends over a perfectly level valley, of eight or 
ten leagues in length, and five or six in breadth. 
This presents a singular appearance, at day-break, 
in summer. The whole surface of the ground is 
then covered with a low dense fog, resembling a 
collection of fleeces of the whitest cotton, which 
rises from the river, and from various canals cut 
through the valley for the purpose of irrigation. 
Nothing else is then to be seen, except the tops of 
trees, and small spots of rising ground, that look 
like islets in an inland sea. As the sun appears^ 
the mist rises gradually, unfolding by degrees a 
beautiful view of the valley, and of the small town 
of Casa Blanca. A road, five leagues in length, 
leads to the foot of the Cuesta, so perfectly straight 
and level, that it has a very singular e£Fect. The 
eye is completely deceived, while viewing it from 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 321 

that height ; as from its bright chalky colour, and 
its receding gradually to a point, it appears exactly 
like a slender obelisk of white stone. 

The descent on the other side, which is very 
short, and has much fewer windings, leads into the 
Caxon de Zapata ; so called from the road being 
shut in, as it were, between two hills, in a Quebrdda. 
Through this runs a mountain stream, so completely 
concealed by the trees that overhang it, as only to be 
heard : it is but once seen, where it crosses the 
road, and immediately plunges again into the woods. 
The Caxon is full of game, such as red-legged part- 
ridges, wild pigeons, torcazasy and a species of 
ortolan, called zarzal; which last frequents the 
vineyards, and is full as fine fiavom*ed as the Euro- 
pean bird. The whole of this country is infested 
with innumerable fiocks of green and yellow lores, 
whose incessant screaming is very disagreeable. 
Their colours are exceedingly brilliant ; but the 
beauty of their plumage is far from compecssating, 
in the Chil^no husbandman*s opinion, the mischief 
they do among the young crops of every description 
The j9t^27/m berries, which are found here in abun- 
dance, feed myriads of the little green paroquets, 
called caHtas, with white heads and blue wings. 
They are about the size of a bull-finch ; soon be- 
come tame, and readily learn to lisp Spanish. 

After passing the river Curicavi, which is cross- 
ed by a ford, at all times deep, and often dangerous, 
the road winds through a level fertile valley, for 
the most part sown with wheat, to the foot of the 
Coesta de Prado ; so called after the name of the 
owner of immense property in the neighbourhood. 

p 3 



322 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The hilly country, between Bmtamante and the 
foot of the Caesta is chiefly covered with the egpino, 
or red thorn tree, whidi grows to a great thickness* 
It bears a small yellow flower of a very pleasant 
scent, called ardmay which the Chil6nas are very 
fond of keeping in their trunks, and drawers of 
cloths ; for, besides its agreeable smell, it is said to 
keep away all insects. The land, which is covered 
with these trees to a great extent, in numy parts of 
Chile, is far from being so nnprodnctive to the 
owner, as it would at first appear. The trunks of 
such trees as grow high, and sufficiently straight, 
afford most excellent timber for horcdnes. These 
are large beams, with forked ends, which are 
planted at each gable end of a cottage, to support 
the roof tree, and at the comers and along the 
sides, for the ridge-poles and rafters. They are 
also useful for gate-posts, bridges, and any work 
that is necessarily exposed to the weather ; the 
wood being particularly lasting, and very little 
affected by damp. It meets with a ready sale, at 
a high price, when cut up into billets for fire- wood ; 
as it bums clearly, with little smoke, and leaves 
hard embers. It is likewise the best wood in Chile, 
or perhaps any where, for making charcoal ; for 
which there is a great demand throu^out the 
country, as no mineral coal is to be had, nearer than 
Penco, in the harbour of Concepcion ; and that 
contains so much sulphur, and is so slaty, as to be 
totally unfit for household purposes. It will not 
even answer for welding iron. 

On reaching the top of the Cuesta de Prado, one 
of the most magnificent views, probably, to be seen 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 323 

in the world, suddenly opens on the trayeller. 

The level and highly cultivated plain of Santiago 

lies below his feet, covered with plantations, and 

watered by the rivers Maypu, Mapocho, and other 

mountain streams. To the right is the plain of 

Poangui, surrounded by forests of Mfen, peiimo, and 

quiUaytte^^ which are cleared away, in several 

places, to make room for plantations. The dark 

coloured Wre, which is the upas of Chile, throws 

its gloomy shade over many parts of these woods. 

It is of snoh a sing^arly poisonous nature, that, 

when incautiously handled, it a£Fects the skin with 

a sort of erysipelas ; for which reason, peons can 

hardly be prevailed on to cut it down. Those who 

lie down to pass the siesta under its shade, invaria- 

Uy Awake with giddiness and nausea; and find 

their eyelids so much swelled, that they are often 

unable to continue their journey without a guide. 

It is said that those who sleep under the litre tree, 

daring a whole night, especially if the dew falls 

heavily, will pay with their lives the forfeit of their 

impmdence. At the farthest end is seen the city 

itself, eenspicuous, at the distance of thirty miles, 

for liie number of its white steeples and towers, 

and surrounded by small viUages and Qnintas. 

The back ground of this lovely scene, is formed 
by the mighty Andes, rising in all their majesty, in 
an immense semicircle ; and reducing into compara- 
tive insignificance the ridges of high mountains, 
that rise between them and the valley. These last 
are scarcely seen ; or, if at all observed, serve only 
to show by contrast the inconceivable height of the 
Cordillera. This is. by far the 'finest view of the 



324 CJIMPAIOMS AND CRUI8B8. 

Andes that can be had in Chile ; for, although they 
may be observed at sea, long before the rest of the 
land is visible, the distance at which they stand 
cannot be sufficiently allowed for in the mind, so 
as to form a correct idea of their height Eiven 
here, the' elevation above the sea, firom which t 
spectator views them, takes off a great deal from 
their apparent height; and yet, although the 
nearest of them is at least thirteen or fourteen 
leagues distant firom the Ouesta, they appear to 
be only a few miles off. They are seen to the 
greatest advantage in the winter, when they are 
completely clothed with their mantle of snow; 
which, when gilded by the evening sun, is almost 
too bright to gaze at steadily. The immense abrupt 
precipices and vallies, among them, are distinctly 
seen, in the various shades which the snow assumes. 
Long after the sun has set on Santiago, its rays are 
reflected from the lofty peaks, while the city is 
nearly in darkness ; for there is scarcely any twi- 
light in Chile, especially during the winter months. 
The descent from this last Cuesta, to the plain, is 
again considerably shorter and more gradual than 
the ascent. The Est^ro of Pudagiiel is now the 
only bad pass that remains on the road ; and this is 
a very dangerous ford, on account of the sand shift- 
ing frequently, and changing the crossing place. 
After every heavy fall of rain, it b the duty of the 
VadSroy or keeper of the ford, to ride into the 
stream, and ascertain where it may be passed with 
the greatest safety. This office is in the hands of 
an old Huazo, who builds a rancho on the bank, at 
the commencement of the rainy season ; and gener- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISIB. 325 

ftlly^ earns suffieieiit to matntun him through the 
year, by riding across with strangers, and shewing 
them the ford. 

About half a mile above the pass, the banks of 
the river are high, and not fieur apart ; so that it 
would be easy to build a bridge, or establish a 
ferry boat there, as the water is deep, and not very 
rapid. This has not yet been attended to by Go- 
vernment ; although it frequently happens, that the 
post-boy firom Valparaiso, with the mail, is detained 
three or four days on the bank, waiting for an 
opportunity to cross over. So many waggons, 
carriages of all kinds, and horsemen, assemble here 
when the river is high, that it resembles a fair. 
Carr^tas arrive with parties of females, ("bringing 
of course their guitars with them,) who conu> 
merely for amusement, and to see and be s<>en by 
the passengers crossing the ford. Racing and 
gambling immediately commence on tlie sandy 
beach. The Huazos have always some stout tall 
horses in readiness, which they recommend, as par- 
ticularly good swimmers, to those who are in a 
hurry to cross ; and are very officious in offering 
their assistance to the birloches, a kind of light one 
horse chaises, much used on this road. 

The streets, on entering Santiago at the obelis^k, 
are mean and ill- paved ; but improve very much on 
advancing into the centre of the city. There they 
are flagged on both sides, with red porphyry from 
San Christoval ; and most of the houses are hand- 
some. The Plaza Mayor is spacious, and kept 
very clean. It has a handsome bronse fountain in 
the centre> surrounded by a basin of hewn stone. 
This is constantly crowded by aguatirog^ or water 



326 ' CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

carriers, filling the barrels which they carry for 
sale through the streets on mules, being themselTes 
seated between the barrels. A victget or load of 
water, is sold for a real ; and the water is delivered 
without the trouble of unloading the barrels, by 
means of a bung hole in the under part, as well as 
in the upper. 

In 1829, the Cabildo thought proper to order 
this body of men to discontinue the shrill cry of 
'* Agua r that they had used from time immemo- 
rial ; and to carry each a small brass bell, fiutened 
to the barrels, for the purpose of announcing their 
approach, instead of making it known by their 
ancient cry. This innovation was submitted to, 
perforce, but with a very bad grace. It proved the 
occasion of many quarrels, between them and the 
mob, who used to annoy them for a long time as 
they passed, by enquiries of which of their parents 
was en capilla; in allusion to the custom, on the day 
of an execution, of going round with a small bell, 
to beg money for a mass for the souls of the male- 
factors. These aguateros are all licensed by the 
Cabildo, and are only allowed to ply in their 
own divisions of the town. In each barrio there 
is a Cabo de aguateros, who is answerable 
for the condnct of those in his district; and 
heads them, in case of a fire in the city, at 
which time they are bound to be in readiness with 
their barrels to supply water. 

The public edifices in Santiago are all built of 
brirk, (except the cathedral,) in a very handsome 
style; particularly the Casa de Mon^da, which 
stands separate, having in front of it a Plazuela, in 
which is a fountain of very clear water. This 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIRRS. 327 

building extends a quadra, or about two hundred 
and fifty paces, every way ; is t¥ro stories high ; and 
contains three court-yards, and a chapel, in which 
mass is said daily, for the families of those who 
were formerly officers of the establishment, and 
who have handsome apartments in the building. 
No money is now coined there ; all the machinery, 
and even the solid slabs of granite on which it 
used to stand, having been sent to Ooquimho by 
Gen. Pinto, when he was president of this republic. 

The Consulado, where there is a court for deci- 
ding all questions concerning commerce, and where 
the National Bank has its office, is situated in the 
Plazuela de la Compania, opposite to the handsome 
old church formerly belonging to the society of 
Jesuits. Next to this is the college established by 
them. It is now filled with young Chileno stu- 
dents, under more liberal minded instructors, who 
educate them, not, as formerly, exclusively for the 
church, but to fill any station in society. At ano- 
ther side of the small square is the Aduana, a large 
custom-house, to which every carreta, arriving from 
the port, is obliged to carry the merchandize it has 
brought up. Opposite to this is the Colis^o, a 
paltry play-house, which, nevertheless, is well at< 
tended every Sonday and Thursday. 

The palace of the President, in which are all the 
public offices and the treasury, is a handsome brick 
building, faced with red porphyry, and with pilas- 
ters and corner-stones of the same. This edifice, 
together with the carcei, which is built in tlic saino 
style, and appears to form a part of it, composes 
one side of the Plaza. The next to this is the 



328 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISEg. 

cathedral, built of hewn stone ; and the Bishop's 
palace. This last has been converted into a school 
for young ladies, where the daughters of the prin- 
cipal inhabitants are instructed in every polite ac- 
complishment, and even learn English and French. 
This school, or Colegio as it is called, is provided 
with masters of every description, most of them 
foreigners ; and is conducted by a set of reg^ula- 
tions altogether novel in Chile. The young ladies, 
who board at home, are directed by an order 
printed in the Government gazette, to wear bonnets 

• 

and gloves, when on their way to and from school ; 
and those who live in the Colegio, are visited, and 
conversed with, every evening, by some of the 
most respectable ladies of the city, for the purpose 
of forming their manners. There are several 
other schools for young ladies, on the European 
plan ; one of which is superintended by two 
Frenchwomen. There are also colleges for the 
young men and boys, on the same principle. In 
fact, the people of Chile already begin to feel a 
deep sense of the necessity there is, for the rising 
generation being somewhat more enlightened in 
their ideas than their parents ; and are perfectly 
conscious of the former defects, in the only system 
of education that was permitted by the Spaniards 
in their colonies. 

Opposite to the cathedral, is the Caf^ de la 
Nacion ; on each side of which are rows of small 
shops, occupying the remainder of the Plaza. The 
houses over these are ruinous, and disfigure the 
square ; but, as the owner resides in Lima, the 
Government of Chile takes no steps to remedy 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8BS. 329 

this defect. There was, a few years ago, an ar- 
cade along this side of the square, which formed a 
pleasant walk in rainy weather. Besides the shops 
under its shelter, there were numbers of baratUloSy 
or small stalls, for the sale of cutlery and haber- 
dashery. These arcades, called here portales, have 
been pulled down, without any apparent reason ; 
the walls, against which they used to stand, having 
been left quite bare, without any repair whatever. 
The keepers of the baratillos have removed them 
into the middle of the Plaza, where they block up 
the way with their stalls and canvas awnings. 
They have been joined by the venders of coarse 
doth, ponchos, and saddlery ; who scarcely leave 
room to cross the square. Nevertheless, as each 
of them pays a heavy impost, for permission to sell 
his goods here, the Cabildo tolerates the nuisance. 
There are many very handsome churches, con- 
vents, and monasteries in Santiago; especially 
those of Santo Domingo, San Francisco, and San 
Agnstin. On Thursday evening, in Passion 
week, the churches are seen to great advantage. 
It is then the duty of every good catholic to 
'^ rezar las estaciones" that is, to pray at seven dif- 
ferent altars, at least, in memory of seven principal 
events which took place during the crucifixion of 
our Saviour. Each church vies with the rest in 
the splendour of its illuminations ; and exposes to 
view, on that night, all the gold and silver plate 
belonging to it. The custodias, or shrines which 
enclose the consecrated wafer, are particularly 
magnificent. They are made of solid gold, richly 
ornamented with pearls and precious stones. One, 



330 CAMPAIGNS AMD CRriSBB. 

belonging to the cathedral, is sud to have cost 
above three hundred thousand dollars ; and there 
are three or four others in the city, nearly as 
valuable. 

During the whole of Passion week, but mors 
particularly on the Thursday night, many peniiemks 
parade through the fftreetrsi, wearing black veils, and 
scourging themselves severely on their bare shoul- 
ders. This is sometimes imposed upon them as a 
penance by their confessors ; but they frequently 
perform it of their own accord, imagining that they 
acquire sufficient merit by it, to atone for the most 
heinous sins. Another, and a still more severe 
mode of penance, is. to carry a heavy wooden 
cross on the shoulders, to some of the principal 
churches, the wrists of the penitent being bound 
to the arms of the cross. This class of devotees 
must be attended by friends, to prevent them from 
falling ; for they would inevitably liurt themselves 
severely, in case of a false step ; their hands not 
being at liberty. Many of them, even robust men, 
faint away under the cross. When they are un- 
bound, their friends are obliged to lower their 
arms very gradually ; as it would give them most 
excruciating pain, if suffered to drop suddenly. 

At the feast of Corpus Christi, there is a pro- 
cession in every town throughout Chile, of a much 
more joyous description, and apparently of very 
remote origin. This is formed by a set of men, 
called Catiffibddos, who dress in a very fantastic 
kind of masquerade. Some of them represent 
Indians, in the ancient costume. Others are dres- 
sed in imitation of the Catalans, in tight white 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 331 

breeches and silk stockings ; fine white shirts with 
very wide sleeves, which are covered with bunches 
of ribbons; and lofity pasteboard caps, also deco- 
rated with a profusion of ribbons, necklaces, and 
pieces of looking glass. These go round from 
house to house, and to all the public places, at- 
tended by music, to which they perform a graceful 
complicated dance, with bright swords in their 
hands. They are headed by one who represents 
their alcalde, and bears a gold-headed stafi^, as the 
insignia of his office. A kind of buffoon accom- 
panies them, dressed in the guise of a fiend, with 
horns and a tail. He is called El MatagalUnas ; 
and carries a long whip to dear the way for the 
dancers, of which he is by no means sparing on the 
mob, who are nevertheless obliged to take his 
blows in good part. The Catimbddos are all 
handsome looking young crioles, having their faces 
rouged, and each carrying a perfumed white hand- 
kerchief in his hand. 

On the festival of San Pedro, who is the Patron 
of fishermen, all the boats and canoes belonging to 
the bay of Valparaiso assemble, dressed up witii 
flags, ribbons, and women's shawls of every colour. 
A large launch is prepared, and very highly de- 
corated, for the reception of the Saint ; who i$ 
brought from the principal churdi, amidst the ring- 
ing of all the bells in the port, in the arms of a 
Padre. Round him, and in front of the image, the 
Catimb4dos dance down to the beach ; often turn- 
ing round, and bowing down before it. The priest 
then embarks in the launch with the image, greeted 
by the acclamations of multitudes who assemble to 



332 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

join the procession, and by the display of rockets 
and other fire works. The launch proceeds across 
the bay, followed by the gay fleet of boats and 
canoes, to la Cal^ta, a small village on a rocky part 
of the coast, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, where 
an altar is prepared on the beach for the Saint*s re- 
ception. The struggle here is great, for the honour 
of landing the image, every one present crowding 
into the water to receive it ; but the Hnazos are ge- 
nerally successful, as, by means of their horses, they 
are enabled to reach the launch before it touches 
the shore. On the whole, it is a very showy spec- 
tacle ; but this festival, like most water parties, 
rarely terminates without some of the canoes up- 
setting, by being overloaded, and by the boisterous 
gaiety of the spectators, who believe that this cere- 
mony ensures successful fishing to all who join in 
it sincerely and enthusiastically. 

The Casa de Exercicios is a large building near 
the Canada, lately erected, and maintained by pri- 
vate contributions, for the reception of penitents, 
who attend the devotional exercises performed 
there at stated times, for the space of nine days. 
Those who have the means, contribute to the support 
of the establishment ; and the poor are admitted by 
a certificate from their father confessor. These 
nine days are almost entirely employed in con- 
fession, prayer night and day, and voluntary fast- 
ing. No compulsion is said to be used as to the 
last named duty ; on the contrary, refreshments of 
every kind are provided for the Ehcercitantes, and 
tables in the refectory are spread every day with the 
choicest meats and wines, as if to make trial of their 



OAMPAieVS AND CRUISES. 333 

temperance. They are attended by ladies, or gen- 
tlemen, according to their sex, who make a merit 
of performing the most menial offices for them. 
After midnight prayers in the chapel, all the lights 
are extinguished, except one dim taper at the altar ; 
each Ebcercitante is provided with a discipKna, or 
scourge; and, having made bare their shoulders, 
they lash themselves^ more or less severely, until 
a small bell is rung, as a signal to cease the flagellar 
tion. To such a state of fanaticism are their minds 
wrought, by the exhortations addressed to them 
from the pulpit, that they frequently continue the 
penance, without paying any attention to the signal, 
until some of them faint under the lash inflicted 
by themselves. 

It is a strange scene to witness these Exercitantes' 
return to the world, as their phrase is, after this 
period of seclusion and mortification. As for the 
females, it is painful to behold the weak, nervous 
state, to which they are reduced by fasting and pen - 
ance, and by the appalling sermons they hear, from 
the friars who attend in turn for this purpose. Their 
friends always find it necessary to provide carriages 
of some description, to convey them home ; for 
they generally come out fainting, and in hysterics. 
But it is absolutely ridiculous to see two or throe 
hundred stout men, literally roaring and blubbering 
like children, and falling on their knees in the street 
to every acquaintance they meet, to beg their par- 
don for any oifence they may have given them ; 
for this is always enjoined as a penance on leaving 
the Casa de Exercicios. 



] 



334 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



RIVER OF SANTIAGO. TAJAMAR. ANECDOTE OF A CHILE- 
NO MARQUEZ. PROMENADE OF THE CANADA. CAFES.— 

IMPROVISATORI. BRIDGE. MARKET PLACE. FOBT 

STA LUCIA. — PUBLIC CEMETERY. CRUELTIES OF ZAM- 

BRUNO. MODE OF CONVEYING THE MAIL IN CHILE. — 

WATCHMEN. POLICE. IMPUNITY OF FEMALE CRIMI- 
NALS. 



The Mapocho, which traverses the city of 
Santiago, like many mountain streams, occupies a 
new channel. It has, not many years ago, filled up 
with gravel its ancient bed, which used to lie at the 
other side of the Cerro de Santa Lucia, passing 
through the Canada, where the traces of its former 
course may still be distinctly seen, although levelled 
and built upon in most parts. The stream has, in 
like manner, raised its new bed so considerably, by 
constant accumulation of sand and gravel, that the 
water is every winter much higher than the level 
of the city. 

A tajamdry which literally means a break-water, 
was built by the Spanish President O'Higgins, for 
the purpose of preventing any irruption of the 
river. This threatens, at no very distant period, 
to occur ; and would inevitably destroy the greater 
part of Santiago. The encroachment the river has 
already made, may be discovered, by observing the 
former tajamar, which was built about twenty yards 
nearer the middle of the current than the present 
one. Although it must, doubtless, have been of a 



CAMPAIGNS AND CEUI8ES. 335 

sufficient height at the time it was built, it is now 
completely covered with water at very high floods. 
The present tajam^ extends, from the bridge, 
about two miles up the river. It is built of sub- 
stantial brick and mortar masonry, about six feet 
thick at top, widening towards the ground ; with 
a parapet of a single brick in thickness, and 
three feet high ; and is very neatly paved, through- 
out its whole extent, with small black pebbles. Its 
height necessarily varies according to the nature of 
the ground, being about fifteen or sixteen feet at 
its greatest elevation. The course of the river is 
directly against the foundation of the tajam^, which 
it has undermined in some places, and has actually 
thrown down a part of it, about a hundred yards 
in length, at the upper end, where the bank is for- 
tunately high, It will, beyond a doubt, soon make 
a serious breach ; unless the Government takes some 
steps shortly to strengthen the mole, or turn the cur- 
rent of the water to the other side of the river. This 
is a favourite promenade in fine weather, as the view 
it commands of the river, the suburbs of La Chimba 
full of gardens, and the mountains beyond it, can 
never weary the eye. 

Fronting the tajamar, and on the other side of 
the river, is the steep conical hill of San Cristov;^!, 
on the summit of which is a wooden cross, so large 
as to be seen distinctly from every part of the city 
with the naked eye. It is always illuminated with a 
vast number of candles, at the annual celebration of the 
festival of La Cruz. This points out the spot where 
a murder was perpetrated, under singularly atroci- 
ous circumstances, by a Marqn^z of Chile, who 



1 



336 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISB8. 

died not many years ago, and whose family u 
among the most distinguished of Santiago. TUs 
nobleman was exceedingly attached to a yomig 
female in the city ; but was of so jealous a dispo- 
sition, that he never could be prevailed on to intro- 
duce any one, even of his most intimate friends, to 
her company. One of them, piqued by this dis- 
trust, was determined to revenge himself, by prac- 
tising on the jealousy of the Marqu^z. For this 
purpose, he called on the young lady, at a time 
when he knew her lover to be at the colMoy and 
endeavoured to persuade her, by every argument 
he could invent, to accompany him thither. Not 
being successful, however, in prevailing on her, he 
contrived, under pretence of examining it, to ob- 
tain possession of a ring, which he knew had been 
lately given her by the Marqu^z. He then declared, 
that if she would not go with him to the play, he 
would at least take the ring there, which accord- 
ingly he did, notwithstanding her entreaties to the 
contrary. Having entered the same box that the 
Marqu^z was in, he found no difficulty in fixing 
his attention on the well-known gift ; and on being 
questioned by him on the subject, gave such evasive 
answers, as to leave no doubt on his mind of the 
treachery of his friend, and the falsehood of the 
lady. The Marqu^z immediately left the theatre, 
and having hastened to her house, requested her to 
accompany him in his carriage to a ball, that he 
said was to be given at a friend's house in La 
Chimba. On arriving at the foot of mount San 
Cristoval, he dismissed the carriage, and, under 
some pretence, led her out of hearing from the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 337 

houses. Then drawing his sword, he compelled her 
to follow him to the top of the hill, where he mur- 
dered her ; without even acquainting her, as he 
afierwards acknowledged, with the cause of his 
jealous fury. He returned to the city, where he 
reported that she had eloped ; but after a few days, 
the body was discovered by some children, who 
were playing on the hill. They also found, close 
to it, a diamond knee-buckle, which was recognised 
to be one of those the murderer usually wore in 
public The driver of the calesa was examined, 
and proved his having left the unfortunate female, 
in company with his master, beyond the houses in 
the Chimba, on the night of her disappearance. 
The Marqu^z, however, possessed interest sufficient 
to escape ; being sentenced merely to pay a small 
annuity to the mother of his victim, who was a 
widow. Notwithstanding the circumstance being 
publicly known, he was afterwards seen in com- 
pany as much as ever ; and actuaUy married not 
long after. 

A few years ago, there was a good carriage drive 
parallel with the tajamar, shaded by rows of pop- 
lars, and ornamented at each end by a circular 
basin of water, in the centre of which was a foun- 
tain. Here the Spanish President, and the whole 
of the fashion of Santiago, used to assemble in the 
summer evenings, to enjoy the cool air from the 
river, and to listen to music. But the poplar trees 
have been cut down, and now lie decaying across 
the walks they used to shade ; the fountain is choked 
up with sand; and the drive is neglected and 
deserted. 

Q 



338 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The Canada is now the prindpal public walk of 
Santiago; althoughthe situation, in point of prospect, 
does not justify the preference it has obtained oyer 
the TajamAr. In a large open spot of ground, 
reaching nearly firom the hill cf Sta* Lucia to the 
Llano de Portales, (a plain outside the city wh^re 
troops are generally exercised,) there are four 
magnificent rows of poplars, which have grown to 
a great height, and are watered by small canals 
cut close to their roots, and constantly full of dear 
running water. Between the two centre rows, is 
a very broad gravel walk, kept scrupulously dean, 
by being swept and watered twice a day in summer. 
There are in it two circular openings, called ovalos, 
through which carriages and horses may pass, from 
the city into the plain of Maypik ; but in no other 
part are they permitted to intrude. Neat stone 
seats, shaped in imitation of Grecian couches, are 
ranged round the ovahs, and at equal distances 
along the centre walk. In this is the chief prome- 
nade ; for the two others are narrower, and, being 
thoroughfares for foot passengers, are not kept so 
strictly neat. On each side of these, but divided 
from them by narrow canals of running water, are 
broad roads for carriages of all kinds, and for 
horsemen. The churches in the Canada are nu- 
merous, and handsome ; and the gardens belonging 
to the private houses are the most extensive in the 
city. Extensive ranges of baths, both hot and 
cold, are established in the gardens behind the 
houses. They are kept remarkably neat ; and under 
the best regulations. During the summer months, 
bands of music, belonging to the different regi- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 339 

ments quartered in Santiago, play here every 
eTening in the oralos, until a late hour ; and re- 
freshments of every kind are to be had from the 
neighbouring Caf^s, from whence waiters are sent 
with trays to receive orders. The greatest deco- 
mm is preserved. Serines, or watchmen, are al- 
ways patrolling the side vralks ; so that numerous 
parties usually remain here, in the hot weather, 
until two and three o'clock in the morning. 

The Ca£^ have all corridors, round which tables 
and seats are placed for the accommodation of any- 
body who chooses to rest. Music abo, and singing 
is always provided, for the entertainment of the 
public, by the owners ; whose interest it is to en- 
gage good musicians and singers to attract company 
to their houses. These singers generally a£Pect to 
be improvisatori ; at least they are always prepared 
with new verses, which are usually satirical, adapted 
to the old national airs. In these they make fre- 
quent allusions to any recent occurrences in the 
city, to which the Chil^nos always lend an attentive 
ear ; particularly if it be a subject of scandal. One of 
these troubadours, who was a great favorite with the 
people, and was known by the name of La Monona, 
from a song that she was constantly called on to 
sing, composed so many satirical verses to that 
tune, reflecting on nuns and friars, that the priors 
and abbesses took the matter up seriously, and used 
their interest with the alcalde of that district, to 
get the poor performer confined in the Casa de 
Gorreccion. From thence, however, she was soon 
released, at the intercession of an Araiicano Chief, 
by name Benancio, who was at Santiago on an 

Q 2 



S40 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUUBS. 

embassy from his nation, and had been highly en- 
tertained by her singing. 

The bridge across the Mapocho, leading to Ae 
Chimba, is lofty and broad. A causeway extendi 
from it, for a considerable distance on both banlU) 
beyond the ordinary breadth of the stream, on 
account of the sudden and violent floods that take 
place at the time of the snow melting on the Cor- 
dillera. A violent earthquake, too, will frequently 
cause a dangerous, because unexpected, inundation, 
by shaking down avalanches of snow into the ra- 
vines which supply the river. This was a principal 
cause of the destructive deluges in November, 1822. 
Over each pier, there is a small recess, in eadi 
of which a baratillo has been recently established ; 
and these, being well lighted with lanterns, give 
the bridge a lively appearance at night. Towards 
the Chimba side, where the bridge divides into two 
lofty causeways, there is a guardhouse, where an 
ofiicer s guard is posted for the protection of people 
passing, and that of the shops, as robberies used to 
be very frequent here. The bridge has received 
an injury, from the great earthquake of 1822, 
which has evidently thrown it out of the perpen* 
dicular. 

Between the bridge, and the convent of Santo 
Domingo is an open piece of ground, which for- 
merly bore the name of el Vazurtd, from the 
sweepings of the streets, and filth of every kind 
being heaped there. On this, the Plaza de Basti* 
mentos, or market place, now stands ; a very spa- 
cious and convenient building, extending a quadra 
on every side ; with four large gateways, having 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 341 

posts to prevent the entrance of horses or mules* 
These obstacles are a source of annoyance to the 
Hnazos, who hare a great dislike to be obliged to 
dismount, and are in the habit of eating their meals, 
and transacting business, while sitting on horse- 
back. 

In the Calle de Santa Domingo is the Post 
Office, at the door of which is pasted a daily list 
of the letters that have arrived by the several 
mails. At the end of every month, these are torn 
down to make room for others ; and a list of un- 
claimed letters, for the last month, is addded to the 
numerous placards, extending to the correspondence 
of several years passed, which cover the inside of 
the gateway. This department is very badly re- 
gelated throughout Chile. As it is the practice of 
Grovemment to let the offices at a high rent to pri- 
vate individuals, it is of course their principal object 
to avoid expence, as much as lies in their power. 
Accordingly, each mail, enclosed in a portmanteau, 
that has seen many years' service, is entrusted to a 
set of little ragged urchins, who might with the 
greatest ease be bribed, or compelled to surrender 
their trust. The post horses are worthy of their 
riders. Notwithstanding the cheapness of horses 
in Chile, relays of miserable half-starved ponies are 
used for this purpose, by which means the letters 
are shamefully delayed on the road, besides the 
frequent miscarriages that occur. 

A rocky eminence rises abruptly near the river, 
in the outskirts of the city, on which stands a fort 
called Santa Lucia, erected in the time of the Spa- 
nish President Osorio, for the avowed purpose of 



342 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8B8. 

firing on the city, in case of a reyolution. It can, 
indeed, command nothing else besides the streeto 
and the Canada. It was built by patriot prisoners, 
many of them men of respectability, and fathers of 
families, who, for any thoughtless expression re- 
flecting on the tyrannical government of the Spa- 
niards, or even for being found in the streets after 
dark, were condemned to this laborious work m 
irons, by the Mayor de Plaza, the notorious Zam- 
bruno. The top of the hill is covered with large 
loose rocks, which appear ready to roll down on the 
houses beneath. Many of the unfortunate prisoners 
employed here were crushed to death, while re- 
moving some of them, for the purpose of levellii^ 
that part of the hill on which the fort and batteries 
were erected. On one of the platforms, is a con- 
trivance, considered extremely ingenious by the 
Ohil^nos, for firing a gun at mid-<lay, by means of 
a burning glass ; the lens being fixed in such a 
manner that, exactly when the sun reaches the 
meridian, it ignites a train of gunpowder leading 
to the touch hole. Being adjusted every day, it 
answers tolerably well during the summer months ; 
and the sound of the gun, at that hour, is a great 
convenience to the labourers, for miles round the 
city. The view from the hill of Santa Lucia is 
extensive and beautiful. It includes the whole 
of the city and its environs, with the plains of 
Maypii, and the promenade of the Canada, on the 
one hand, and the bridge and river, the pretty 
village of la Chimba, and the public walk on tlie 
Tajamikr, on the other. 
Several English and North Americans have been 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. ^;>^< 

formerly buried in this fort ; not being allowed, as 
heretics, the privilege of resting in consecrated 
ground. Of late years, a Panteon, or cemetery, 
has been established on the other side of the river, 
beyond the suburb of la Chimba. Here every one 
may be interred ; either g^tis, in case of poverty, 
or on payment of small fees, proportioned to the 
ability of the mourners. There is a small chapel 
at the Panteon, where mass is daily said for the 
souls of those buried there. The cemetery is sur- 
rounded by a high wall, having iron gates kept lock- 
ed at night, for the security of the graves ; — not that 
the bodies are ever disturbed in Chile for the pur- 
poses of anatomy ; but this precaution is necessary 
on account of the multitudes of houseless dogs, 
that swarm in every part of S. America. It was 
long before the superstitious inhabitants of this 
continent could be brought to approve of the in« 
troduction of public cemeteries ; for they clung to 
the unhealthy custom of burying their dead either 
in the churches, or in the burying grounds adjoin- 
ing them. Now, however, much to the credit of 
the new Governments, Panteons have been estab- 
lished in the neighbourhood of most large towns ; 
and laws have been enacted, forbidding all bodies, 
even those of nuns, to be buried anywhere else. 
By this salutary r^^ulation, many epidemic diseases, 
formerly so destructive, will doubtless be in future 
avoided. 

The name of Zambniino, which I have before 
mentioned, is still remembered with execration in 
Santiago. He was appointed town-major by 
Osorio, the last of the Spanish Presidents in Chile, 



\ 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

when the royalists had retaken the capital, after 
the total defeat of the patriots at Candia Rayidi) 
and were determined to hreak the spirit of Ae 
Chil^nos, if possible, by erery severity and indi§[- 
nity in their power. It was forbidden, under 
severe penalties, for any inhabitant, except a Spa- 
niard, to be seen in the streets after dark, without 
a written permission from Zambruno ; and evening 
parties, of every kind, were prohibited. When 
the church bells rang, at sunset, for the Qraete^ 
every body was obliged to throw off his doak or 
poncho, let the weather be ever so bad, and to 
carry it on his arm, lest any weapons mig^t be 
concealed underneath. Zambrdno, disguising him- 
self with a poncho, and guarapdnj or slouched 
straw hat, frequently listened at the windows of 
houses, where he saw any lights in the evening. 

If he chanced to hear the least expression, that 
could be construed into disaffection to the Spanish 
Government, he instantly entered the house, and 
hurried away all the men he found to the common 
calabozo. As he always carried pistols, and was 
well known to be a sanguinary ruffian, no resist- 
ance was ever attempted ; but, to prevent any of 
his prisoners from making their escape, he gene- 
rally compelled them to let their ccUzones fM down 
to their ancles, and marched them in that condition 
to the prison. 

On one occasion, while marching at the head of 
a guard through the Oalle de Ahumdda, he was 
accidentally struck by a piece of the rind of a 
melon, which a young lady had carelessly thrown 
from a balcony, without perceiving him. Although 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 345 

he must bave been well aware that this happened 
quite unintentionally, he would listen to no apo- 
lo^, for she belonged to a patriot famfly. Not- 
withstanding her intreaties and tears, and the sup- 
plications of her respectable parents, he ordered 
the soldiers to take her to the barracks. There 
her hair was cut off dose, as if she had been a cri- 
minal ; and, after being drummed round the Plaza, 
she was suffered to go home. The indignity was 
too great for her to bear : she sunk under it, and 
died in a decline, shortly after the patriots regained 
possession of their city. 

I After the decisive battle of Maypi!^, Zambruno 

kras recognized by some Hnazos, as he was endea- 

jvouring to make his escape. Being brought to 

I Santiago, he was sewed up in a fresh bullock's 

hide, which stiffened on him by degrees, and 

formed a kind of piUory, in which he was paraded 

for some time about the streets, a spectacle to the 

people over whom he had so cruelly tyrannised. 

He was afterwards shot in the Plaza, by order of 

O'Higgins. 

The police of Santiago is pretty alert, and the 
city is well watched during the night, by Serenos 
(so called from being out in the night-air ; from 
which also SerenadoSy or night songs, are derived). 
These are very vigilant watchmen, being obliged 
to find securities to a certain amount, previous to 
this trust being committed to them» They are 
responsible, either by fine, or imprisonment, in 
case of culpable negligence, for the safety of the 
houses under their charge ; all of which are assessed, 
according to their respective value, to pay the cor- 

q3 



346 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

porals and privates of this guard. They are obli- 
ged to proclaim the time and weather, efery 
quarter of an hour in Santiago, and every half 
hour in Valparaiso ; besides occasionally aoonding 
a shrill whistle, for the purpose of announcing thmr 
presence, or calling their comrades. It is also a 
part of their duty to convey messages to any part 
of the city, by night (as in the case of a {^lysidan, 
comadre^ or Padre confesor being suddenly wanted); 
and this they do, by passing the word from station 
to station, with the fidelity and secrecy, and almost 
the celerity, of a line of telegraphs. While pat- 
rolling back and forward, they make it thw busi- 
ness to examine diligently the fastenings of doors 
and windows ; for they have a right to daiin^—- and 
are always ready enough to enforce it,— a oertahi 
sum of money, as a fine, from those householders 
whom they convict of negligence in this respect. 
A foreigner, in particular, if he happens to leave 
the door of his lodgings a-jar after night-fall, may 
depend on finding a Sereno stationed there, when 
he returns, ready to complain loudly of the expenses 
he, the faithful watchman, might have been called 
on to pay, if any less honest person had found the 
entrance unsecured. 

The Ser^nos in the capital, previous to their 
call, use the pious ejaculation of — ^^ Ave Maria 
purissima /" whereas those in the port are con- 
tented with exclaiming — << Viva Chile /" In both 
places, on being relieved from their duty at daylight 
by the corporals, wlio muster them, and parade 
them before the Teniente de Serenes, they always 
repeat a long prayer aloud, for the souls in 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. S47 

Purgatory; ending with a *^ Padre nuesiro, &c" 
and calling on all pious Christians, who hear 
them, to join in their prayer. 

Although many offenders are apprehended by 
the police, robberies and murders still continue to 
be common occurrences ; because, notwithstanding 
their alarming frequency, scarcely any executions 
take place, and only in cases of peculiar atrocity, 
or where the criminab have no friends to interest 
themselves in their behalf. Otherwise, even for 
murder, they are merely banished to Valdivia, from 
whence they speedily return ; or are sent for a few 
years on board of a man-of-war ; — sometimes for 
the sixth and seventh offence of the same nature. 

Previously to the Presidency of Creneral Pinto, 
females invariably escaped unpunished for the most 
atrocioiis murders, and used to boi^st of their run- 
ning no danger of punishment, whatever might be 
the magnitude of their offences. Even if they 
were occasionally condemnedy pro formdy to be shot, 
some convent of nuns always claimed them, as 
penitents of their order, and this claim was in every 
instance allowed. The present matron of the 
female wards, in the Casa de Correccion, was 
brought up for trial from the neighbourhood of the 
town of Talca to Santiago, charged with having 
murdered her husband, a respectable farmer, on no 
provocation whatever ; but merely on account of 
her partiality to a peon employed on the Estancia. 
This murder was discovered by means of two sol- 
diers, who, on their way to join the regiment, 
sought for shelter and refreshment at her house. 
This she roughly refused, and turned them from 



348 CAMPAIGNS AND CRCISBS. 

her door. They, however, returned, resolved on 
helping themselves to some provisions ; and seeing 
an oven smoking, which they supposed to contun 
bread, opened it, and found there the body, which 
she had attempted to bum. She was found g^lty, 
and sentenced to death ; but was claimed by the 
Monjas Agustinas as a devota of that order, and 
her punishment was conmiuted to the rather irk- 
some office, of superintending female convicts. 

Shortly after Pinto was elected President, he 
created a great sensation among the Chil^nas, by 
.'refusing to pardon, and insisting on the execution 
I of, a female of the suburb of GuangnaU, who, 
'assisted by her daughter, had murdered her hus- 
band, and buried him in the floor of her hut, im- 
mediately beneath the bed where she and her 
parricide child slept. The unfortunate man was 
an aguaiAro ; and was soon missed on his usual 
station by the caho of his section, who suspected 
the woman, searched the house with the assbtance 
of some comrades, and established her guilt beyond 
a doubt. And yet, such an outcry was raised 
against this act of justice, as, with the circumstance 
of his removing the mint from the capital, mainly 
contributed to render Pinto unpopular in the 
extreme. 



CAMPAI6N8 AMD CRUISES. 349 



CHAPTER XX. 



MUTINY ON BOARD THE FRIGATE LAVTARO. INDEPKK- 

DENCIA SAILS TO BLOCKADE CHILOE. SHORT PASSAGE 

TO HUACHDCUCUI. ^THE ARCHIPELAGO. CEDAR PLAXKS. 

PIRAGUAS. ROCKS OF CARELMAPU. HARBOUR OF 

VALDIVIA. FORTS. THE TOWN. INSURRECTION IX 

CONCEPCION. COL. BEAUCHEF's REGIMENT EMBARKS. 

ISLAND OF MOCHA. HARBOUR OF TALCAHUAXO. 

CAPT. WILKINSON WOUNDED. ARRIVAL OF FREYRE AT 

VALPARAISO. 0*HIGGINS DEPOSED. RETIRES TO PERU. 

FREYRE ELECTED PRESIDENT. 



The Chil^no frigate Lantaro, commanded by 
Capt* Wooster, liad been for some months blockad- 
ing the Archipelago of Chiloe ; and was greatly in 
want of proYisions of every kind, which it was im- 
possible to procure at Valdivia, the nearest seaport 
under the flag of Chile. Capt. Wooster was, 
therefore, under the necessity of leaving the block- 
ade, and bearing up for Talcahuano, the port of the 
city of Concepcion, for the purpose of obtaining 
the necessary supplies. 

He had previously made repeated urgent repre- 
sentations to the Government, on the subject of the 
sailors' clothing, which was quite insufficient for 
them on such a cold wet station; but no attention 
whatever had been paid to them by the Ministro de 
Marina. The consequence was, that when the ship 
had received provisions onboard at Talcahuano, and 
the order was g^ven to get under weigh to resume 
the blockade, the men came aft, in a body, on the 
quarter-deck, and insisted that the ship should be 



350 CAMPAIGNS AND ORUlSBtf. 

taken to Valparaiso, where they might receiTe the 
clothing they were in want of, as well as other ne- 
cessaries which they could not procure at Talca- 
huano. This demand was of course refused. On 
heing ordered to their duty, with threats of punish- 
ment for this insubordination, they made a rush to 
the arm chest, and seizing that, as well as the 
marines* arms that were in the rack, they took pos- 
session of the ship, and disarmed the officers ; con- 
lining them to their cabins with sentries over them, 
but otherwise treating them with cirility. They 
then, having failed in endeavouring to persuade 
some of the*; officers to take charge of the ship, car- 
ried her themselves to Valparaiso, where they gave 
her up, having committed no farther outrage. Dur- 
lug the time the mutineers were in possession, they 
maintained the strictest discipline among them- 
selves ; and flogged three marines, who were found 
intoxicated between decks. 

Information having been received at Santiago by 
the Government, that an American vessel was on 
the point of sailing for Chiloe, from one of the 
Puertos Intennedios, (as those ports aro called 
which lie on the coast of Peru to the windwai'd of 
Lima) with officers, arms, and money for Quinta- 
nilla, the Spanish Governor at San Carlos, the In- 
dependencia was ordered on the blockade of the 
Archipelago; Having been hove down, coppered, 
and thoroughly repaired, after her return from Ca- 
lifornia. Although we sailed in the middle of sum- 
mer, when the south-east trade wind prevails, we 
had a north-west breeze the first night, which car- 
ried us to Point Huachucuciii in Chiloe, in eighty 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRtJISKS. 351 

hours from our aBchorage in Valparaiso. Notwith- 
standing this surprisingly rapid passage, we did 
not arrive soon enough to intercept the vessel for 
which we were on the look out ; as she entered the* 
harbour of San Carlos a few hours before we made 
the coast. A blockade is at all times, and under 
all circumstances, an unpleasant, harassing service 
to perform ; but it becomes doubly so, o£F a rocky 
dangerous coast, where bad weather, and heavy 
gales of wind, may be constantly expected. The 
western coast of Chiloe, o£F which we were sta- 
tioned, does not contain a single harbour, being 
diiefly g^uarded by inaccessible rocks i^^uad the few 
places where it is just possible to land, are danger- 
ous for boats, on account of the constant heavy surf 
that breaks on the shore. 

The Archipelago of Chiloe consists of a group of 
small islands, which have been very little explored 
by Europeans. The only one of any size is the seat 
of Government. In it is the harbour of San Car- 
los, which is well defended by forts and batteries, 
besides g^-boats. It also contains the town of 
Chacao, formerly the capital <^ the group ; and the 
city of Castro. Both of these are safe ports, but 
very difficalt of access. These islands are sepa- 
rated from the main land, by a broad inlet of the 
sea; and from each other, by narrow channels, 
through which the tide at ebb and flow runs with 
such velocity, as to endimger the safety of any 
vessel, that should happen to get becalmed among 
them. The smaller islands are inhabited chiefly by 
Indians; and are, nearly all, covered with thick 
forests. Small patches of land are cleared away, 



352 CAMPAIOM8 AND CRDISBS. 

here and there, by bnmiiig the underwood^ wad 
leaving the larg^ forest-trees standing, until they 
gradually decay, being killed by the fire. Their 
agricoltoral implements are few and simple. They 
break the ground with an azadany or large hoe, re- 
sembling the graffaun used in Ireland ; and plaat 
their potatoes (the usual crop,) with a spade made 
from the blade-bone of a sheep or goat. 

One of the principal branches of traffic among 
the Indians, both on the islands, and at Calbi&co on 
the miun land opposite, consists in plank of the o/- 
erzcy a kind of red cedar. Many thousands of these 
planks were formerly sent as a compulsory an- 
nual tribute, by the Indians, to the Spanish Go- 
vernment at Lima. Their method of procuring 
them is very wasteful ; for they use no saw, but 
merely cut the trunks of the trees they have felled 
into logs, of from ten to twelve feet long. They 
then square them with hatchets, and split them, 
with wedges, into planks of about nine inches in 
breadth, and half an inch in thickness. These are 
much used in Chile and Peru, for wainscoting and 
ceiling rooms, to which purpose they are well 
adapted by their lightness. 

On some of the islands there is a breed of very 
diminutive ponies; and some lean, coarse- wooled 
sheep, almost all of which have three horns. The 
Indians carry all the produce of their islands, for 
sale, to San Carlos and Castro, in piraguas^ or large 
canoes ; some of which will hold forty men. The 
bottom of the piragua is made of a single large 
tree, hollowed out partly by fire, and finished with 
ail adze : the sides are composed of long planks. 



OASfPAIOKS AND CRUI8B8. S5S 

sewed together at the edges with twisted strips of 
bark. The principal island is by far the best oiilti- 
vated; and, besides potatoes, produces plenty of 
good wheat, to which the soil appears well adapted. 
The climate, nevertheless, of Chiloe is so rainy and 
cold, that in some seasons it is necessary to cut the 
com before it is ripe, and dry it in ovens, while in 
the straw ; for there is not sunny weather enough 
to harden the grain, sufficiently to allow of its be- 
ing threshed out. 

The Chil6tes feed large herds of swine, and make 
excellent small hams, with very little salt, and 
highly smoked, of which they export many thou- 
sands every year. Their sows, when breeding, are 
generally inmates of the houses ; and it is by no 
means uncommon, even in respectable families, to 
see litters of pigs under the estrddoy and in every 
comer of the rooms. It is customary among the 
natives, on killing a pig, to divide it into small por- 
tions, excepting the legs and shoulders, which are 
always reserved for hams ; and to send some pork 
to each of their friends and neighbours, who, of 
course, are expected to return the compliment, when 
they begin to salt hams. By this economical plan, 
they ensure a constant succession of fresh meat all 
the year. As salt is exceedingly scarce and dear, 
they would otherwise be reduced to the dilemma, of 
either consuming more meat at a time than is cus- 
tomary in a thrifty Chil6te*s hut, or of throwing 
away the greater part. 

llie entrance into the Archipelago, by the north- 
ward passage, is nearly closed by a number of small 
rocky islands, which are frequented by vast num- 



354 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8K8. 

bers of hair seals, and sea fowl. There are also 
sunken rocks and shoals, between which the rapi- 
dity of the currents renders the navigation very 
hazardous. This group is called Los Farellones de 
Carehnapu, and takes its name from a village and 
small fort opposite, on the main land. They are 
visited, occasionally, by the Chil6tes,for the purpose 
of sealing, and collecting sea fowls' eggs, with 
which the rocks are literally covered in the season 
of incubation. They also kill here numbers of the 
nutria^ or small sea otter, the fur of whi<^ is very 
valuable. A dark kind of amber is frequendy 
picked up here, and on the neighbouni^ rocky 
coast. The Indians say that, after heavy gales of 
wind from the north, they occasionally find some 
valuable pieces of the semi-transparent straw-co- 
loured species. Liunps of a course, but fragrant, 
amber-gris, is also washed ashore in the wintw. 
The Chilotes call it mei/ine; believing it to be se- 
creted by the whales, which are seen in numbers off 
the coast in that season. 

After some tedious months spent here in the 
blockade, in the course of which the Independ^icia 
had sustained some damage, both in spars and rig- 
ging, by the frequent gales of wind, it was found 
necessary to bear up for Valdivia, to undergo the 
necessary repiurs. The views of the land, off this 
harbour, are extremely gloomy and uninviting. On 
the right hand, is the beetling cliff of el Morro de 
Gonzales, against which the heavy swell from sea- 
ward is constantly dashing, and rising in sheets of 
white foam. Opposite to this is an iron-bound 
coast, formed of black rugged rocks, without the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 355 

slightest trace of v^etation. Behind are moun- 
tains, covered with forests of a dark foliage, and 
overcast with clouds for the greater part of the 
year. 

On entering the harbour, the view is much more 
cheerful, as the channel for shipping runs close 
along the shore, on which are numerous pretty cot- 
tages, with small gardens, situated among the forts. 
Tins port b exceedingly stroi^, having been for- 
tified by the Spaniards at an expence of more than 
a million of dollars. They always considered it 
impr^nable, until convinced of the contrary by the 
successful attackmade by Lord Cochrane, in the year 
1819. The principal forts are San Carlos, La Co- 
rona, Amargas, La Niebla, and El Corral. All 
these are built of earth, faced with hewn stone ; 
and are mounted with loi^ brass 24-pounders. 
These pieces, which are handsomely ornamented, 
were cast at the royal foundery, in Lima ; as well 
as the shot for them, which is of copper. Similar 
guns are mounted on every fortress along the west 
coast of South America. 

The fort of La Niebla is on the opposite side of 
the harbour from the anchorage, which it com- 
mands. It is difficult to be approached, by boats, 
on account of the surf; and is defended from attacks 
on land, by ontworks, and deep trenches cut in the 
wAid rock. Ei Corrdl is a castle, built on a small 
point of land in the harbour, within half musquet 
range of which vessels must necessarily anchor. It 
contains barracks for five hundred men; officers' 
quarters; and a chapeL At high tides, the water 
reaches the walls, which are about thirty feet in 



356 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

height, and the same in thickness. These surround 
the castle on three sides, and are mounted hy up- 
wards of sixty heavy guns, most of which may he 
brought to bear on the anchorage. On the land 
side, there is a deep ditch and drawbridge, which is 
also defended by guns. 

Close to the castle, there is a small village, 
chiefly inhabited by the ^milies of the artillery- 
men, whose station here is permanent, as well as in 
the other forts. The cottages are all built of wood, 
floored with large heavy planks, six or eight inches 
thick, on account of the marshy nature of the ground. 
They all have gardens, which produce only a few 
potatoes and cabbages; but all the inhabitants breed 
fowls, on which they are frequently obliged to sub- 
sist during northerly gales. While these prevail, 
there can be no commimication between the forts 
and the town, on account of the heavy sea that rolls 
into the harbour. It then breaks on a bank, called 
Las tres Hermanas, extending across the mouth of 
the creek that leads up to the town ; and three 
ranges of breakers are formed, among which many 
fatal accidents have occurred. 

Valdivia, itself, is a wretched looking place, built 
entirely of wood. The houses are large, but ruin- 
ous, as the incessant rain decays the buildings. The 
town is surrounded by apple orchards, from which 
the inhabitants make a good cider, being their chief 
branch of commerce. They have little else to ex- 
port, except firewood, and rafters for building, 
with which vessels are sometimes loaded for the 
coast of Peru. A saw-mill has been lately set up 
there by an Englishman, named Carlow, who also 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 357 

bmlt a brig there. It would appear, from the 
qnantity of timber growing near it, and the secu- 
rity of the harbour, that this place might soon be- 
come flourishing, if the natives could conquer their 
habitual indolence. Nothing whatever is culti- 
vated in the town, except cabbages and potatoes ; 
and although at Osorio, situated at about fifty miles 
distance, wheat is cultivated successfully, and cattle 
abound in the savannas surrounding it, there are 
such frequent Indian wars, and inroads made by 
the warlike Araiicanos, their neighbours, that the 
inhabitants of Valdivia are frequently in great dis- 
tress for provisions. They, nevertheless, are re- 
markable for their cheerful manners, and healthful , 
rosy complexions, in which they resemble the pea- : 
santry of Somerset and Devonshire. The Chi- ■ 
lenos have long remarked, that the officers of their 
regiments, when sent to garrison Valdivia, rarely 
remain bachelors ; and not a few Englishmen (at- 
tracted, doubtless, by the resemblance the Valdi- 
vianas bear to their own countrywomen) have 
turned Benedicts while residing there. 

We found, lying in the harbour, the schooner 
Mercedes, Capt. Barragan, just arrived from Valpa- 
raiso. We heard from him, that Chile was in a 
state of great disturbance, in consequence of the 
in^Eunous conduct of the prime minister, Rodriguez ; 
who was openly embezzling the public money, ruin- 
ing the credit of the country, and su£Pering long 
arrears of pay to remain due to the army and navy. 
The troops in the province of Concepcion, under 
the command of Gen. Don Ramon Freyre, and the 
8th reg^ent of foot, in garrison at Valdivia, were in 



358 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIIX8. 

great want of clothing, and had received no pay hr 
two years. O'Higgins, the director, had been 
called upon, by the unanimous voice of the people, 
to dismiss the obnoxious minister ; bat he refined 
to listen to any complaints against him, and conti- 
nued obstinately to support him in office. The 
army in Concepcion revolted, in consequence of 
this ill-judged obstinacy, and determined to obtain 
justice by force, or else to deprive O'Higgins of the 
supreme command. Freyre was called on, by many 
of the leading men in Santiago, who corresponded 
with him privately; and he only waited to be joined 
by the 8th regiment, to march to the capital. 

The arrival of the Independencia, at this junc- 
ture, a£Porded an excellent opportunity to (kA. 
Beauchef, who commanded the 8th, of obtaining a 
vessel to take his regiment round to Talcahnano, 
where Freyre was. He had long hesitated on 
going by land, for the roads between Valdivia and 
Concepcion are extremely bad, and lead through 
the country of the Araiicano Indians, who are 
almost always at war, and are inclined to be trou- 
blesome to troops passing through their territo- 
ries. ^"^ During the first night of our arrival. Col. 
Beauchef privately reinforced all the batteries 
in the port with his troops, for the purpose of 
preventing any possibility of the Independencia's 
making her escape, without being sunk, if it should 
so happen, that Capt. Wilkinson would not consent 
to join in the projected revolution. There was, 
however, no necessity for taking this precaution ; the 
ChiUno navy having to the fiill as much reason to 
complain of the conduct of the minister towards 



CAMPAIGNS AND GRI^ISES. 359 

them, as the army. Therefore, on being made 
acquainted with the enterprise in agitation, and 
being shown by Col. Beaachef the letters from 
Freyre, and ether distinguished characters, Wil 
kinson assembled his officers, and asked their opi- 
nions, which were unanimously in favour of joining 
Freyre's party. Beauchef and his regiment, about 
six hundred strong, embarked on board the Inde- 
pendencia; and were conveyed to Talcahuano, 
where they proved a most acceptable reinforce- 
ment to Freyre. 

On our passage, we saw the island of La Mocha, 
which is within sight of the coast. This would be 
an excellent spot for a settlement ; for, from the 
richness of the soil, goodness of the water, and the 
greater part of it being level land, it might easily 
be cultivated. It was at one time inhabited by 
Capt. Roberton, formerly of the Galvarino brig of 
war, who was succeeding very well on a farm 
there; but he deserted it for want of companions, 
on the loss of his brother and several others, who 
were drowned on their return from Valdivia in a 
whale-boat, with necessaries for the new settlement. 
The ground produces vegetables, of every descrip- 
tion usually foilnd in Chile, without cultivation ; 
besides abundance of wild peaches, apples, and 
strawberries. Large herds of horses and bullocks 
graze, without owners, on the savannas ; and wild 
pigs are numerous in the peach woods. There is 
a fresh water lagoon on the island, frequented, for 
the greatest part of the year, by wild ducks, geese, 
and swans ; and both the fiir and hair seal may be 
taken at all times on the rocks. 



360 0AMf»AI6N8 AND CRUISES. 

Freyre was agreeably surprised by the airiTal of 
the ship. It enabled him to sail directly to Val- 
paraiso, where O'Higgins was, instead of marduBg 
through the country to Santiago ; where, although 
he had many influential friends, he was, as yet, un- 
certain of his reception by the army. O'Higgins 
had been compelled to retire from the capital, by 
the defection of some of the garrison, who, although 
they respected their veteran chief too much to think 
of injuring him personally, persisted, nevertheless, 
in demanding the removal of the detested Rodri- 
guez ; or that O'Higgins himself should be de- 
posed from the supreme authority intrusted to him 
by the republic, and that some other citizen, more 
worthy of the general confidence, should be in- 
vested with it. The artillery, which had also 
revolted from him, and was drawn up in the Ca- 
ll ada, made no serious attack, but contented them- 
selves with occasionally firing a shot over the pa- 
lace. This manoeuvre, they said, was without any 
intention of doing mischief; but merely to show 
they were in earnest in their demands. 

Three merchant vessels, lying in the harbour of 
Talcahuano, were immediately taken up, to convey 
Freyre's army to Valparaiso, and were hastily fitted 
out for the reception of the troops. This scarcely 
occupied any time, as one day's water was enough 
for the voyage. Every man carried with him two 
days' provision of charqui, which did not require 
cooking, and was amply sufficient ; for Talcahuano 
is only twenty-four hours' sail from Valparaiso, 
with the usual trade -wind. 

On the morning of the embarkation, while Capt. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 361 

l^^lkinson was on shore, getting boats in readiness 
to take the troops on board, which operation he was 
desired by Freyre to superintend in person, a serious 
aflfray took place between him and the governor of 
the port, Capt. Casey, in which the former was se- 
verely wounded, while off his guard. This outrage 
had nearly put a stop to the embarkation ; for the 
idiole ship's company of the Independencia de- 
clared agunst receiving a single soldier on board, 
before Freyre had done justice on the aggressor. 
Matters were, however, made up, on an assurance 
from the general, that Casey should be tried on the 
first opportunity. We then proceeded to Valpa- 
raiso without any further delay. 

The weather was foggy, (as is usual on the 
coast of Chile in summer mornings,) when the In- 
dependencia, and her convoy of transports, arrived 
at the mouth of the harbour. Freyre had so com- 
pletely the command of the roads leading from 
Concepcion to Santiago, that, although the prepa- 
rations he had been making, for marching his army 
against the Director and his favorite minister, had 
long been known, no news whatever had reached 
O'Higgins of the arrival of the Independencia, with 
the 8th regiment, at Talcahuano ; nor could the 
signal posts on the coast convey any intelligence to 
the port, on account of the fog. But when the sea 
breeze set in, and cleared it away, the vessels were 
seen entering the harbour, full of troops, which 
were landed before any measures could be adopted 
to prevent it. No resistance was offered, either by 
the forts, or the Lautdro and Galvarlno ; botii 
which vessels were manned and armed, although the 

R 




362 CAMPAicxs 

rust of the squadron was paid off and dismantlecl. 
Loifl Cochrane, we found. Lad resigned his com' 
mission as Vice-Admiral of Chile, and had gone 
rnund Cape Horn, with several of liis officers, tn 
Rio Janeiro. There he entered into the service of 
the Bmpcror Don Pedro, and recoWed tho command 
in chief of his navy. 

Launches &nd boats were immediately sent us, 
frnm all sides, to facilitate the disembarkation in 
tlie Alraendral, which was speedily effected. Th«' 
inhabitants of Valparaiso received the troops with 
great demonstrations of joy ; many even of thi 
ladies hurrying to the beach, with baskets of inelons, 
and other refreshments for the soldiers. 

A detachment of the 8th regiment, commanded 
hy Capt. Tu|iper, marched immediately to fort San 
Antonio, where O'Higgins was residing, and took 
possession of it, without the slightest oppo«tion 
from the guard of honour posted there to do duty 
over the Director. The officer who commanded 
it withdrew his men very qnietly, as if be had been 
merely relieved by another guard from his own 
j corps. O'Higgins, perceiving any farther resistance 
j to be unavailing, resigned bis command as Director. 
He then asked leave to retire to Peru ; and ob- 
t^ned bis request without much difficulty. Some 
weeks after, he was given a passage to Callao on 
board H. M. S. Fly, which was then on the point 
of sailing to that port. 

Freyre encamped his troops in the Almendral, 
while n^ociations were pending between him and 
the capital ; for the news of his arrival had filled 
the inhabitants with ^prehensions, that he would 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 363 

begin by levying heavy contributions, or perhaps 
permit his men to plunder. When they were as- 
sured of his peaceable intentions, the party in his 
favour easily procured his election to the supreme 
command, with the title of President. 

He was invited to enter the capital, but persisted 
in encamping outside ; refusing to approach nearer 
than the plain of Maypii, lest the sight of his army 
might influence the deliberations of the Junta, 
composed of the S. S. Agustin Eyzaguirr^, Fer* 
nando Errazuris, and Jose Miguel Infante. He 
curied his coquetry to such a degree, as to leave 
his army, on hearing officially of his election to the 
coveted dignity, and fly to conceal himself from the 
solicitations of his countrymen, .in the woods of 
MaJile. It was not long, however, before this 
" modem Cincinnatus," as he was (perhaps satir« 
ically) styled in the Mercurio de Valparaiso, was 
prevailed on to assume the reins of government. 

Immediately on his elevatibn to this dignity, he 
appointed new ministers, in the departments of 
Hacienda, Guerra, and Marina. He also directed 
a Congress to be assembled ; and recommended the 
towns to proceed, without delay, to the election of 
members to compose it. 

Don Ramon Freyre was a native of the province 
of Concepcion. He was rather above the middle 
size ; and, though inclining to be corpulent, re- 
markably active in every exercise. His complexion 
was florid, eyes gray, hair auburn and curling ; and 
he had altogether the appearance of a jolly, good- 
humoured English farmer. He was famous for 
having gained several actions, against the Spaniards 

r2 



364 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

and Araiicano Indians, solely by his personal in- 
trepidity, in leading on the cavalry in a succession 
of desperate charges; but, though a first rate 
colonel, he was but an indi£Ferent general. He 
almost compensated his deficiencies in military tact 
and experience, by his enthusiastic love of his 
country. Among many anecdotes current in Chile 
respecting his patriotism, he is said on one occasion 
to have manifested his indigpiation against a |na- 
ligpier of his vader-land^ in an unusually energetic 
manner, considering his accustomed placidity of 
temper. 

A grand dinner was given at the palace in San- 
tiago, by O'Higg^ns, to Gren. San Martin, on the 
occasion of the victories of Chacabuco and Maypu, 
to which, it was supposed, his co-operation was 
mainly instrumental. One of the Chil6no guests, 
Don Jose Ygnacio Zenteno, a little insignificant 
but very pragmatical criole, who had just been 
promoted from the humble station of escriv^o to the 
office of Ministro de Guerra, took occasion, in a florid 
encomium which he was passing on their honoured 
auxiliary and his army, to say, that there was not 
a Chil^no worthy to clean the musket of a Buenos- 
Ayrean soldier. Freyre had listened, with his 
usual taciturnity, to the former part of the inju- 
dicious and ill-timed panegyric, in sullen silence, but 
with evident symptoms of uneasiness and disgust 
The conclusion, however, completely got the better 
of bis patience and urbanity, He seized a tureen 
of hot soup, which stood near him, and broke it on 
the head of the astonished declaimer, with the em- 
phatic ejaculation, *< Tomad, carai !" San Martin 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 365 

it is added, laughed heartily at this vehement bnrst 
of patriotism ; and assored CoL Freyre, that he 
himself woold liave treated any of his Ckmdio 
officers in the same manner, had they been goilty 
of such senrile adulation, at the expence of their 
oonntry, in his presence. 



CHAPTER XXL 



CALLAO BAY. BOQUEROX PASSAGE.^-CASTLES. CASAS 

MATAS. HARDSHIPS OF PATRIOT PRISONERS. RUISS 

OF OLD CALLAO. TOWS OF SEW CALLAO. CITY OF 

LIMA. CONVENT OF STA. ROSA. — ISDIAS TREASURES. 

LI MEN as' love OF FLOWERS. ^IHEIR COSTUME. 

CONDE DE TORRE TAGLE AND FAMILY STARVED. RE- 

TURS TO CHILE. ASECDOTE OF THE ISQUISITIOS. 

ISLAND OF MAS AFCERA. — JCAS FERSASDEZ.— COIjOSY 

OF CONVICTS. MASTA FISH. LACTARO SAILS FOR 

AEICA. SLAUGHTER OF liCRSES. SPANISH PRIVATEER. 



As Freyre considered it necessary to send a 
plenipotentiary to Pern, on the occasion of the 
rhange of government in Chfle, Don N. Zanartn 
was chosen to fill that situation, and the Indepen- 
dencia was ordered to receive him and his soite on 
board, and to take him to Callao. We arrived 
there after a very short passage of nine days ; and 
found that the Spanish army, under Gen. Can- 
terac, had lately entered Lima, with too great a 
force to be resisted by the patriots, consistiDg 
chiefly of Colombian troops, under Crenerals Suae 
and Valdex, who had been sent by Bolivar to the 
assistance of the Peruvians. They had, therefore, 
retired into the casde of Callao, with the greater 



366 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

part of the inhabitants of the capital, who were 
just preparing to retam to their houses when we 
arrived; the Spanish army having only the day 
before evacuated Lima. 

The harbour of Callao is formed by the barren 
sandy island of San Lorenzo, which extends across 
the bay, to the southward and westward ; and pro- 
tects the anchorage from any heavy sea, or gales 
of vrind, in that direction. The entrance to the 
harbour most commonly used, is to the northward 
of the island ; it is wide, and perfectly Aree from 
danger. There is another narrow and intricate 
passage, between the south point of the island and 
the main, called El Boquerdn, which has of late 
years come into more general use ; the sunken 
rocks in the channel, and the rapidity of the cur- 
rent, having deterred large vessels from attempt- 
ing to sail through, until the time of the blockade 
by the squadron of Chile. Lord Cochrane not 
only proved, by a practical manoeuvre, the possi- 
bility of bringing a frigate into the bay by that 
passage, but beat the O'Higgins out against the 
wind, to the astonishment of the Spaniards. They 
were so confident of his losing the ship, that they 
followed him into the Boquerdn, with gun-boats, 
to take immediate advantage of his getting 
- aground. 

The weather in this bay is always sultry in the 
forenoons, and foggy with occasional haze. Rain 
is never known on this part of the coast. About 
10 A. M. the sea breeze begins to set in, and con- 
tinues to blow freshly until near sun-set. At this 
time, scores of light fishing canoes begin to make 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 367 

their appearance, coming in through the Boqueron, 
from the neighbourhood of the small port of Cho- 
rillos, where they lie fishing all night. They make 
a very pretty appearance, each having a slender 
mast, and a square sail of white cotton stuff, which, 
though small, appears far too large for the slender 
vessel that carries it. 

The castles of Callao are beyond comparison 
the best built, and most regular fortifications, that 
have been constructed by the Spaniards in South 
America. They are formed entirely of white 
hewn stone ; and cover a large extent of ground, 
on the south-east side of the harbour. The ap- 
proach to them, on every side, is over a level 
gravelly tract of land, which slopes towards them, 
so as to form a natural glacis. They are surrounded 
by a deep and broad ditch, faced with stone, and 
commanded, in every direction, by bastions and 
ravelins, amply supplied with heavy artillery. The 
Spaniards, when they were in possession of the 
castles, had also a live shell, and a barrel of powder 
provided with a quick-match, in readiness between 
every gun, opposite to those parts of the ditch, 
which were most liable to be attempted. As the 
walls do not rise higher than the slope of tlie 
glacis, there was no danger of a breach being 
effected ; and the circular shape of the low flanking 
towers, on which long 24-pounders were mounted 
on traversing carriages, prevented them from sus- 
taining much injury, when struck by the besiegers' 
shot. 

The principal castle, called El Real Felipe, con- 
tains several extensive barracks for troops, and 



868 CAJfPAIONS AND CRUISES. 

storehouKes within the walls. There are also a 
chapel, an hospital, and several large squares for 
parades and airing-grounds. Under the basdons 
are the Casas-Matas, a series of gloomy dungeons, 
where hundreds of patriot prisoners were confined 
by the royalists. Scarce a ray of light could pene- 
trate into these subterranean cells ; for the only 
small grated window that was allowed to each, did 
not open into the castle ditch, but into deep narrow 
trenches dug for that purpose in the works; so 
that not the least glimpse of the sky, nor of any 
human being, could be enjoyed from them. The 
total privation of a proper circulation of air was 
so severely felt in these crowded receptacles of 
misery, that the soldiers, who were on guard on 
the prisoners, have been known to £unt away on 
entering them. 

The only provision made at one period- of the 
war, for each of the unfortunate prisoners, was one 
real and a half, (about ninepence in money) per day. 
On this, it was evidently almost impossible to 
exist, when the high price of provisions, in a place 
blockaded by sea and land, is taken into considera- 
tion ; especially in Callao, where every article of 
food is, at all times, extravagantly dear. They 
had also to trust to the honesty of the soldiers, on 
guard over them, for the purchase of what they 
wanted ; and it frequently happened that the Godoy 
who was entrusted with their daily allowance, re- 
turned without bringing them any supply, saying 
in excuse that he had lost the money. To whom 
were they then to complain of this cruel robbery ? 
To their jailors, who were eager for their deiOh, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 369 

and would willingly have accelerated it, to escape 
the trouble of attending to their wants. 

Many officers, who were released from these 
Casas-Matas, when the castles were abandoned by 
the Spaniards, have declared, that during their im- 
prisonment, he, whose turn it was to take charge 
of the small candle allowed to each dungeon for 
the night, considered himself fortunate, in having 
the opportunity of securing what remained of it, 
for an addition to the very small loaf of bread, 
that he was able to buy with his allowance money. 

The castle of La Corona is within musket shot 
of £1 Real Felipe, and is built on the beach be- 
tween it and the Boquer6n passage. On the point 
beyond this fort, are still to be seen some remains 
of the ruins of old Callao, consisting of large brick 
arches, probably ruins of churches, half buried in 
the sand and shingles. These are all filled with 
human bones and unburied bodies, which have been 
laid here at the time when the Spaniards were 
blockaded in the castles ; and are probably chiefly 
the remains of prisoners who were shot, or died 
in the Casas-Matas. They are all in as perfect 
a state of preservation, as though they had been 
regularly embalmed, in consequence of the heat 
and dryness of the weather, and the nitrous exha- 
lations from the sands throughout lower Peru. 
Ruins of streets, also, and large buildings, are to 
be seen under water, not far from the beach in 
clear calm weather. 

The old city of Callao was totally destroyed, in 
October, 174^, by a tremendous earthquake. At 
that time, the sea retired twice from the land, and, 

A 3 



370 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

rushing each time suddenly and impetuonsly hack 
again, overwhehned and devastated the mty, which 
contained many thousand inhabitants. The return- 
ing waves rose to such a height, as to carry four 
of the vessels lying in the harbour, (the rest being 
instantly sunk,) to a considerable distance inland. 
One of these, the frigate San Fermin, was thrown 
bottom upwards, completely over the ruined city, 
by the first inunense bore of tide that entered the 
bay. One of the very few survivors was alive in 
1823. He esci^md in a canoe, during the wreck 
of larger vessels, and was thrown by the waves on 
the top of the old fort Santa Cruz, which was the 
only building left by the temporary deluge. The 
ravages, committed by this inundation, may be 
plainly traced round the present town, by observ- 
ing the sand and shingles, with which the ground 
is covered for many furlongs. 

The third castle, called the north battery, is 
situated on the opposite side of the harbour, and 
commands the mouth of the small river, where the 
blockading squadron of Chile used frequently to 
water, as well as the anchorage. The new town 
of Callao, in which it stands, is a small ill-built 
place, not having above three or four tolerable 
houses in it. The streets are excessively dirty ; 
and exhale at all times a most disagreeable putrid 
odour, from the ofial of the cattle slaughtered* here, 
which is suffered to lie and decay, until cleared 
away by the dogs and vultures. 

On riding to Lima with Capt. Wilkinson, we 
found the road covered with emigrants, returning 
slowly to their houses ; carrying with them their 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 371 

beds, and such trifling articles of fiimiture, as they 
had been able to rescue from plunder, for their use 
while residing in the fort. In the capital, the streets 
looked desolate ; scarcely a shop was open, and the 
di£Ferent squares showed the traces of the enemy's 
bivouacs and watch-fires. The few inhabitants 
who ventured to let themselves be seen, appeared 
to wander about, as if the aspect of the place was 
new to them ; looking cautiously round them, at 
every turning, in expectation of the sudden return 
of the Spanish forces. The churches were open, 
and, though still very splendid, had all been plun- 
dered more or less of their rich ornaments. The 
old Sacristans, while showing them to visitors, actu- 
ally wept over the sacrilege committed by the 
Spaniards, in stripping the altars of the plates of 
silver, with which they, as well as the pillars that 
surrounded them, had been covered. 

The city is said to take its name from the river 
Rimac, which runs through it, and has been cor- 
rupted, by Spanish pronunciation and orthography, 
to Lima. This river is crossed by a handsome 
stone bridge, leading to the suburbs, in which is 
the Alameda, once so crowded with sumptuous 
equipages, in the evenings after the siesta. The 
pavement of Lima is extremely bad, consisting of 
large round stones, laid ^vithout the least regu- 
larity. These render walking through the streets 
very fatiguing, as there are no flags for the conve- 
nience of foot passengers. The accommodation of 
the lower classes was, probably, very little thought 
of, when the streets were paved. 

The palace of the former viceroys, which oc- 



372 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

cupies one side of the Plaza Mayor, is a lai^e 
gloomy looking* edifice. The cathedr al is handsome, 
but there is no other building in the square worthy 
notice. The silversmiths, and the gold lace and 
epaullette makers, usually work in the open air, 
under the arcades ; and notwithstanding the unset- 
tled state of affairs, were busily employed, when 
we entered, at their trade. Capt. W. bespoke a pair 
of handsome bullion epaulettes, which were 
finished the next day, and brought home to him, 
by a miserable looking criole, in the midst of such 
a scene of lawless confusion, as would hare terrified 
an English goldsmith out of the country. The 
fountain, in the centre, is the principal ornament of 
the Plaza ; but it can seldom be seen to advantage, 
as it is constantly surrounded by aguateros and 
their mules, in the same way as that at Santiago de 
Chile. 

The number of churches, convents, and other 
religious buildings is incredible ; there is scarcely a 
single street, where there is not at least one to 
be seen. This gives Lima a magnificent appear- 
ance, when viewed from the harbour, or from any 
place in the neighbourhood ; but, on a nearer ap- 
proach, the stranger is struck with the mean aspect 
of the dwelling-houses ; few having any windows 
towards the street, although spacious and hand* 
some within. 

The chapel of Santa Rosa, the patroness of Pern, 
and the only criole saint ever canonised, is remark- 
able, not only for the value of the votive ofiPerings 
by which its treasury is enriched, but for the nature 
of the relics which are there enshrined. Besides 



373 



the msnl ezhiliitMMi of Wnms» loir, ng% &c^ the 
DommicaiM, who dodaty im the Aapd, draw a pair 
ai oomiiMm iToiy dice, wi^ whidi, they pretend, 
our SoTHNir, in persoo, osed to enteitam the sabt, 
when she was exhausted with doTotion, penance, 
and ftsting. The Provincial of this cooTent is di- 
rected, hy its stitntesj to he chosen alternately from 
among the ^lanish and ciiole monks who compose 
it. Party fends, in ooaseqnenoe, ran so high 
on the occasion ai an electimi, that the yicerovs 
have fonnd it necessary to ord«r oat troops, for the 
purpose of qoeDing the riots caused hy the cenobite 
rivab and their lay partisans. 

A singular anecdote is rehUed by the LimeHus, 
-which is connected with the history of one of the 
small churches in the city. They say that, about 
fifty years ago, one of the mountain Indians, who 
used to attend mass, and confess occasionally, at a 
small village among the mountains, not far from 
the capital, became so much attached to the Padre 
Cura, who had attended him during a dangerous 
attack of the small pox, that he presented him with 
some pieces of pure gold, in return for his kindness. 
The curiosity of the Padre being greatly excited, 
he questioned the Indian as to where he had pro- 
cured them, and was informed, under strict injunc- 
tions of secrecy, that he had discovered a huaco: 
that is, a place where treasures have been concealed, 
by the former possessors of the country, probably 
about the time of the Spanish invasion. These 
hoards are numerous throughout South America, 
and particularly in Peru. Many of them are well 
known to the Indians, who, nevertheless, rarely 



374 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

make use of the riches contained in them. They 
confidently helieve, that the race of the Incas is to 
be one day restored to the power of their ances- 
tors, and therefore keep the treasures carefully con- 
cealed, for the use of their sovereigns when that 
time shall arrive. Consequently, no great surprise 
was excited in the Padre ; and the Indian still con- 
tinued to bring him occasionally considerable quan- 
tities of gold, until enough had been amassed to 
build a church, which had long been the object of 
the priest's ambition. When he applied to the 
Archbishop of Lima, for the necessary permission, 
he was obliged to confess how he bad become pos- 
sessed of this wealth ; and was enjoined, by the 
Prelate, to use all diligence to discover the situa- 
tion of the htuzcoy that the riches it contained might 
be appropriated to repairing and beautifying all the 
churches in the capital. After great importunity, 
the Indian consented to conduct him by night to 
the spot, being a small cave, the entrance to which 
was concealed by brush-wood, in the centre of a 
thick mountain forest. On his return from visiting 
it, the Padre is said to have cut a small piece of 
bark from every tree he passed ; so as to enable 
him, as he hoped, to find his way again to the 
huaco. He was disappointed however, in his ex- 
pectation of getting fraudulent possession of the 
treasure ; for the shrewd Indian, whose suspicions 
liad been aroused by the eagerness with which his 
confessor had begged to be shown the cave, had 
watched him ; and detecting his artifice, had marked 
numerous forest trees, in every direction, in the 



CAMPAlCa» AJKD CSnSEl» ^'^ 



same wmj. It k ■ ■■ ^ ■ ii* te add, l^at the Indiaii 
never appeared agsia al; the SBBe TiQage cJmreh. 

TTie pdUic KaiiDBis m lian voy always very 
well si^plied in loae «f pe^oe; and, eren daring 
the ooidfbsoB S«*^iPfr*nl ta ciril war, the LlmeLaa 
are led thither bTlheirioTeafflowcn. These are 
^■^apO' brought to the citj £m aale ia such profusion, 
as to give the pfa«^J«, ia which they are chiefly 
sold, the j^peaiaMeaf a garden. AH the female^ 
of Sooth AoMwa aie raaaaihaUy €omd of flowers^, 
~ eqiedally the ekatdj^, or caraati<«, for which they 
give ezorlMtaat prieet. It is not aBcomiDOD for a 
single haadsoBM flower, of this kind, to sell for ten 
or twidve dollan, and eren for a dooUoon if of a 
scarce ecdonr, merely to be worn in the hair one 
evening. Scarcdy any of the Mawen found m 
these tropical conntries have any scent ; with th** 
exception of soch as have beoi originally iotrocIaeeJ 
from Europe. To remedy this defect, many nose- 
gays are perfmned with scented waters : even the 
rose of Pern often requires the assistance of art. 
Tlie brilliancy of their colours, however, gives a 
lively ^pearance to the gardens, and even to the 
fields and road «des ; for, among the most ordinary 
weeds, there are some that would be highly prized 
in an European hot-house. A flower is generally 
presented to a visitor on entering a house ; and 
this simple nuirk of attention is rarely omitted in 
Chile. The txuo de misturoy is a favourite manner 
of enjoying the scents of flowers, mingled with that 
of artificial perfumes, which is veTj general 
throughout S. America. The ladies amuse them- 
selves after siesta, when preparing it, by picking off 



376 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the petak of orange and citron flowers, jasmines, 
pomegranates, and rose buds, from the nosegays 
they have just received from their slaves, or <;of^- 
jo8. They strew this mixture of flowers, by hands- 
full, in a capacious vase, and sprinkle each layer 
with different essences, raspings of sandal-wood, 
and cloves. This fragrant mistara is always at 
hand, when they wish to scatter perftimes about the 
sitting room, or from the virandas, on any friends 
who may pass beneath. 

The Limenas are gradually beginning to aban- 
don their ancient costume, and to adopt that of the 
English. By this they are certably gainers ; for 
the former mode of disguising themselves, in the 
mantilla and saya, was far from becoming. These do 
not at all resemble that graceful dress worn by the 
ladies of Bogota. The saya of Lima is made of a dark 
coloured stuff, covered with longitudinal plaits, re- 
sembling a broad kind of corduroy. It is elastic, and 
fits so close to the body, as to shew the shape very 
distinctly, and to render it impossible for the wearer 
to walk fast, or take long steps. The mantilla, 
which is here a long cloak of black silk, with a deep 
lace border, covers the head, neck, and arms, as well 
as every part of the face, with the exception of one 
eye. This is such a complete disguise, that it is 
impossible even for a husband to recognise his own 
wife ; especially as it is customary for the ladies, 
when they wish to preserve a strict incognito, to 
put on the oldest looking saya they can procure 
from their slaves. Notwithstanding their general 
desire to remain unknown, they can seldom refrain 
from exhibiting, as if by chance, a diamond ring, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 377 

or some other trifling, but unequivocaly indication 
of their real rank in society. 

The ladies of Lima, in common with most of 
the South Ameiican females, pique themselves on 
the neatness of their shoes, and the small size of 
their feet. The Quitenas, on the contrary, inva- 
riably wear shoes too large for them. These they 
stuff out with wool or cotton, for the purpose of 
resembling Europeans ; for they consider a small 
foot the most certain mark of Indian descent. 

^mong many other peculiarities of the animated 
and vivacious Limeros, not the least remarkable is 
the unconquerable loquacity of their barbers. He 
of Bagdad was but a type of them ; and they are 
ridiculed by their brethren in Chile, — ^not a very 
silent race, — as ^' viciosisimos en charlar f" The 
name by which they are usually known, — palan- 
gdnaSi from the brazen basin they always carry, — 
has been conferred on their townsmen indiscrimi- 
nately by the neighbouring provinces ; and " Palen- 
langdna de Peru^* is synonymous with <^ chatterer^' 
through the whole S. W. coast. 

The Governor of Lima, when we arrived, was 
the Conde de Torre-Tdgle, a man whose ill-judg- 
ing ambition and vanity were perpetually thrusting 
him into situations, for which his timidity and in- 
stability of character rendered him totally unfit ; 
and which were, subsequently, the cause of his 
death, in disgrace and absolute want. In his new 
situation, as Governor, he exhibited a strange mix« 
tore of bustling importance, and conscious insigni- 
ficance ; receiving visits at the door of his draw- 
ing-room, dressed, notwithstanding the distress and 



378 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

confusion that prevailed in the city, io an embroi- 
dered silk coat, bag wig, and diamond-hilted sword. 
Capt. Wilkinson, while paying his respects to the 
Conde, happened to mention the circumstance of 
his being entitled to the Peruvian order of the 
Sun, as having commanded a ship on the blockade, 
at the time the castles surrendered ; but observed, 
that he was unluckily absent in California, at the 
time when San Martin distributed the badges and 
medals. Torre-Tagle, expressing his sorrow that 
there were no stars of the order then prepared for 
the navy, took his own from his breast, and pre- 
sented it to Capt. W. 

Shortly after this, Torre-Tagle listened to the 
overtures and splendid promises of the royalist 
Greneral Rodil, as well as to the suggestions of his 
own ambition ; and contrived the revolt of some 
black Colombian troops in Callao, and the surren- 
der of the castles to the Spaniards. The wretched 
man had been persuaded, by the emissaries of the 
royalists, that the cause of the patriots in Peru was 
hopeless ; and he reckoned confidently on great 
honors and rewards being heaped on himself and 
family, in return for his exertions in behalf of the 
king. Unfortunately for his hopes, the total defeat 
of the Spanish army, by Sucre, near Guamang^lla, 
where the Viceroy La Serna, and all his officers, 
were taken prisoners, obliged him to fly from the 
vengeance of his injured countrymen, with his 
family. He retired to the castles of Callao, where 
Rodil had shut himself up, and where he held out 
for many months after the liberation of the rest of 
Peru, in the fruitless expectation of receiving as- 
sistance from Europe. 



CAMPAIGNS AXD CRUUES. 'Mi) 

Provisions became, latterly, so scarce in tin* 
castles, that Rodil turned every person incapahlr 
of bearing arms out of them ; and would also hiivt* 
sent away Torre-T^gle, but that he knew his lite 
would be the forfeit, if he fell into the hands of 
the Peruvians. The unhappy Condeza, who rt«f umocI 
to abandon her guilty husbaad, died, with all lii*r 
children, of sickness and want of sufficient iioiit* 
ishment ; while Bodil, who had plenty of fowU in 
his quarters, which he had found means to obtain, 
for his own use, from such foreign men of war aM 
entered the harbour, had not the humanity to mimmI 
one to the starving £unily, who had been reductnl 
to such distress by their Other's fault* When Uo<lil 
was informed that the old noblenuw was actually 
at the point of death, he sent him a fowl, wliiili 
however arrived too late to preserve his life. 
Whatever punishment his treason to his country 
merited, he certainly deserved a better fate at the 
hands of those who corrupted his fidelity. 

Having completed the duty on which she wan 
sent, the Independencia left Callao for Chile. 
The trade wind was now directly against um, by 
which vessels were formerly retarded at least threr 
months on their passage to Valparaiso, as they 
were in the habit of beating to windward, tht* 
whole way, within sight of the land. Thus they nut 
only had a foul wind to contend with, but a con- 
trary current, setting to the north-west. This 
disadvantage, however, was counter-balanced, in 
their opinion, by their having the land in sight at 
every in -shore tack, and consequently being able 
to ascertain exactly their latitude, by the appear- 



380 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

aDce of the coast ; for the masters of small traders 
in this country were, in general, totally ignorant of 
navigation. 

The first hold innovator who tried the new rente, 
which is now always pursued, — ^namely, standing 
off the land, until the ship gets into the variahle 
winds, — suffered severely for his daring. He made 
the passage to Valparaiso, and returned, in little 
more than a month. This unheard of occurrence 
heing made puhlic, it was at first helieved that he 
had not performed the voyage ; hut, on proving, 
by letters which he had brought from Chile, that 
he had actually been there and back again in tliat 
short space of time, he was accused before the In- 
quisition at Lima of dealing in magic art. In 
consequence of this, he barely escaped with his life, 
after a long solitary confinement in the cells of that 
institution ; and after repeatedly undergoing the 
torture, to force some confession from him, that 
might authorise the inquisitors to treat the inhabi- 
tants of Lima with their favourite spectacle of an 
Acto de Fe. 

On the fifteenth day, after leaving Callao bay, we 
made the island of Mas Afuera, which means literally 
*' farther out;" so called, because it is about a degree 
farther from the land, than Juan Fernandez. 
Mas Afuera is a small high island, with only one 
landing place ; every other part being surrounded 
by steep rocks, and constantly washed by a heavy 
surf. There are plenty of goats on it, and wild 
celery in abundance, which is a most wholesome 
refreshment for ships' companies infected with the 
sea scurvy. It is frequented by hair seals ; but 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 381 

they are difficult to kill, on accomit of the rugged- 
ness of the rocks on which they hask, and the im- 
possibility of approaching any part, except the 
reg^ar landing place, in boats. 

Having met with a wind hare, according to our 
expectation, that enabled ns to fetch the bay of 
Valparaiso on the other tack, we took advantage of 
it, and, at the end of two days, were at oar old 
anchorage. On our way, we passed dose to the 
island of Juan Femandes, ^diich, independent of 
its romantic beauties, cannot fieul to interest every 
one who has read Robinson Crusoe, or Anson's 
voyages. The land on this island is very irr^ular, 
being in some parts level and covered with ver- 
dure, and in others consisting oi high hills and 
precipitous cMs. The soil is exceedingly fertile, 
and produces, without the aid of cultivation, 
abundance of peaches, apricots, cherries, and straw- 
berries ; all of which grow in thick groves in the 
vallies, and give food to herds of wild pigs. There 
are also extensive gardens of every vegetable 
natural to Chfle, as well as many European species ; 
the g^nnd having been cleared and sown by the 
crews of ships that have touched here for refresh- 
ment, particularly by the men of the U. S. S. 
Franklin. She was frequently in the habit of 
anchoring here, while on the South American sta- 
tion, and built a small schooner on the island for a 
tender, called the Franklin Junior. These gardens 
have been, in a great measure, overgrown by weeds, 
for want of care ; but the vegetables are still 
found gprowing wild, especially pumpkins, and 
melons of di£Perent kinds. There are large herds 



S82 CABIPAIQNS AND CRUISES. 

of horses and cattle on the island, which hare 
tempted ships frequently to touch here for the sake 
of the skins ; hat, as the cattle are perfectly wild, 
it is dangerous to hunt them on foot. Hair seals 
are killed in plenty, on the South side of the 
island, which is little frequented, as it is exposed to 
a constant heavy surf. There is a bank close to 
the watering place, where rock cod-fish may be 
caught, as fast as the hook can be baited and thrown 
in. These are salted, and meet with a ready sale 
at the ports on the main land. There is also an 
abundance of camar6nesy which are a species of 
lobsters, or cray-fish, taken among the rocks here, 
and on the coast of Peru. 

This island has been lately made over by the 
Government of Chile, for a certain number of years, 
to a native merchant of that country, to whom a 
considerable sum of money is due by the state. 
It is generally supposed that he will make a hand- 
some fortune, by establishing a settlement for 
cultivating the ground, and a fishery, as well as by 
the sale of timber, from the fine groves. Among 
these is found sandal wood, little, if at all, inferior 
to that produced in Coromandel ; and lignum 
vitse of a good quality. 

The Government has made repeated attempts to 
colonize Juan Fernandez, but has never yet suc- 
ceeded. Instead of encouraging the emigration 
to it of respectable industrious settlers, it has 
merely sent over convicts, tlie outcasts of society, 
and the lowest order of females, who had been 
contributed, chiefly, from the jails of the sea-port 
towns. These people, instead of building houses, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 383 

and cultivating the ground, absolutely could not be 
compelled to do any thing for their own support. 
It became eventually necessary for GoYemment to 
supply them with provisions, and have habitations 
built for them, at a great expence, on an island, 
where very moderate exertions would have amply 
supplied their wants. In spite of every precaution 
that could be taken by the troops sent over to guard 
them, some used to make their escape clandestinely 
on board every vessel Uiat touched at the island. 
At last, they mutinied against the Governor, an 
elderly man, by name Cruz, whom they compelled 
to seize a vessel which had anchored there to pro- 
ciure provisions, and took her to Valparaiso. Since 
tliat time, no farther attempt has been made at 
colonizing the place. 

We repeatedly saw, on this passage, the fish 
called mantay or cloak, which is much dreaded by 
the pearl divers among the islands in the bay of 
Panama; even more so than the shark. It is 
called, by English sailors, the sun-fish ; and is in 
shape perfectly circular and flat, having the appear- 
ance of being all head and fins ; measuring some- 
times from eight to ten feet in diameter. It is 
frequently seen along the coast of the Pacific, as 
far to the South as Chiloe, and to the North as the 
Gulf of California; and is easily harpooned, as it is 
constantly found basking on the surface of the 
water. The flesh is so soft, that a harpoon will 
scarcely hold fieist in it ; and, even when a thick 
pair of slings have been passed round, to hoist the 
fish in board, its own weight cuts it in two, as soon 
as it is raised out of the water. Sharks are also 



384 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUUBIi 

fireqnently seen in the latitade of the idaiids ; hid 
they are by no means so large, nor so roracioiis, as 
those which infest the East coast, and the West 
India islands. 

We had seen General Pinto, afterwards Fresi- 
lent of Chile, as we were lying at Gallao ; from 
whence he sailed with some Chil^no troops, thst 
still remained in Peru, for Arica, in the Emperor 
Alexander corvette, which had lately been bongfal 
into the service of the Peruvian Grovemment. In 
consequence of his representation, transmitted to 
Freyre by the Independencia, the Laiit^u!0 was 
fitted out, for the purpose of carrying down horses 
to the Puertos Intermedios, to supply the Chil^no 
cavalry that was there. The command of her was 
given to an old Chil^no, by name Don Toribio 
Hidalgo, who had formerly been a pilot for the 
port of Valparaiso, and was subsequently promoted, 
through interest, to the situation of commandant 
of the arsenal. It would have been difficult to 
select a person more profoundly ignorant of navi- 
gation, but there was no one else that could be 
appointed ; for Capt. Wooster and his officers had 
left the ship, on her being turned into a horse 
transport. Somewhat more than three hundred 
horses were embarked ; many of which were valu- 
able animals, and had been expressly collected for 
the purpose of mounting the corps of Grenaderosa 
Cavallo. Unfortunately, by some mismanagement, 
the Laut4ro did not arrive at her destined port, 
with this reinforcement, until the very time when 
the Chileno troops were embarking in great haste 
to return to Chile ; a very superior Spanish force 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 385 

being in full pursuit of them, and hourly expecting 

to enter Arica. Sufficient barley and straw had 

not been shipped, to supply the horses, while on 

their passage to any other port ; and to return to 

Chile, against the trade wind, would take up too 

many days. Don Toribio, therefore, decided on 

cutting all the horses' throats, to prevent them 

from fidling into the hands of the Spaniards. This 

operation was performed so ineffectually, that 

many of these fine animals were not put at once out 

of their pain; but continued to swim bleeding 

round the ship, until exhausted, and some even 

reached the shore in that condition. The Lautdro 

then proceeded to Coquimbo with troops. During 

the passage, a violent fever broke out on board, 

supposed to be occasioned by the crowded state of 

the ship, and filthy condition of the hold, which 

had not been cleansed since the horses were 

slaughtered there. Among many others, the 

surgeon of the ship died. 

Gen. Pinto, and several of his officers, having 
taken their passage for Coquimbo in the schooner 
Motezuma, ^ narrowly escaped being taken by the 
Spanish privateer Quintanilla, commanded by a 
oriole by name Martelin This man, who had been 
formerly boatswain's mate with Lord Cochrane, 
and was a most desperate character, had run away 
horn the port of Valparaiso with the vessel he 
now commanded. Having hoisted the Spanish 
flag, he did a great deal of mischief on the coast 
with her, until his career was stopped by the French 
Admiral on the station, who sent him to Europe 
for tria^ as a pirate. The privateer mounted 

s 



386 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

twelve guns, and had recently captored a transport 

fall of €hil6no troops, wfaicH was dispatched ft>r 

Chiloe, bat foundered in a gale of wind, withb 

sight of the Archipelago, and all on hoard perished. 

Hie Motezuma, mounting only one long 18- 

pounder on a traversing carriage, fell in witli the 

Qaintanilla, in the bay of Govija, not far from 

Copiapo, and received her fire for near half an 

hoar, before she conld return a shot ; the toudi- 

hole of her only gun getting unluckily plugged at 

the commencement of the action, by a pricker 

breaking in it, and there being no instrument 6n 

board capable of clearing it. As soon, however, 

as Martelin found that the Motezuma commenced 

firing, and had raked him once or twice, he sheered 

off and escaped. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



IN DEPENDED CIA SAILS TO TALCAHUANO. THE PORT AND 

TOWN. CHILDREN SOLD. BENANCIO AND THE ARAV- 

CANO INDIANS. SHAM FIGHT. CACIQUES* VISIT ON 

BOARD. RECRUITS EMBARK. SICKNESS ON BOARD. — 

SAIL TO COQUIMBO. CITY OF LA SERENA. LUCUMAS. 

SHIP SAILS TO VALDIVIA. NATIVE OFFICERS. EXPE- 
DITION ARRIVES AT CHILOE. ANCHORS AT CHACAO. — 

LOSS OF THE CORVETTE VOLTAIRE. THE ARMY DEFEATED. 

TUCAPEL DISMASTED. EXPEDITION RETURNS TO VAL- 
PARAISO. 



Freyre, the President of Chile, having at this 
time planned an expedition against Chiloe, sent the 
Independencia to Talcahuano, to receive on board 



€iMMPA19HB AMD CmUlSBS. 387 

some vetacmtBf whaA had been eoUected in the 
proTuioe of GoBeepckm. AHboagli we had ar- 
riyed at Yatparmiso^ from this port, in twenty-four 
hours, it took us now fiye days beating np to it. 

The harbonr is frequently called P^co, by the 
nativeSy from its being the name of the former 
town, whiek was destroyed by an earthquake in 
1750, and tibe qpot where it stood deluged by a 
tremendous waye, in a similar manner to the coun- 
try round Gallao* The ancient harbour described 
by Ulloa, and frequently alluded to in the Araii- 
eana of Eroilla, no longer exists as a port ; for a 
reef of hard rock, visible in many places at low 
water, occupies the former anchorage of all the 
Spanish vessels which used to double Cape Horn. 
These, it is well known, were of such a size as to 
require at least four fathoms water to enter the 
harbour; but the bed of the sea has been elevated, 
so as to form a shoal of a mile and a half long, 
immediately at the mouth of Pence Viejo 

The town of Talcahnano is situated at the South- 
Blast end of the bay, which is nearly shut in from 
the sea by the fertile, though uninhabited, island of 
Quinquina. The Northern entrance, being open 
to the ocean, admits a heavy swell, at times, during 
the winter, when Northerly gales are prevalent. 
Nevertheless, ships are seldom lost here, because 
if they have any warning of the approach of 
bad weather, they can shift their berth to the 
lee-side of Quiriquina, where they lie perfectly safe. 
The anchorage, which is close to the town, is com- 
manded by a small fort, mounting half a dozen 
guns ; but these serve more for shew than any real 

s2 



3SS CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

service, as they are all old honey-combed pieces, 
on worn ont carriages. The town consbts of a 
few hundred straggling baildings, chiefly of wood ; 
and all of them, as well as the church, appear 
greatly in want of repair. 

The natives of Talcahnano are iar poorer, and 
worse clad, than those of the neighbonrhood of 
Santiago and yaIparai8oa;nd live chiefly on fish and 
chorros. These last are a species of shell-fish only 
found here, and of a smaller size, at Chiloe. They 
are much prized on the coast, forming by no means 
a contemptible branch of the exports of the place. 
They lie in beds at the bottom of the harbour, near 
the anchorage, and at the island of Quiriquina : 
those found at the latter place are esteemed the 
best. They are caught, either by a long pole cleft 
into four points at the end, (called candeiiroj from 
a fancied resemblance it bears to the branches of a 
candlestick,) which, being thrust into the beds of 
chorros, draws them up, one by one ; or, sometimes, 
by diving for them. In this way, which is most 
successful in procuring the best chorros, two per- 
sons, generally a fisherman and his wife, go together 
on a small raft, made of logs of wood. While the 
woman keeps the raft stationary, by a pole which 
reaches to the bottom, the man descends; and 
having selected a sufficient number to fill a bag, 
which he carries tied round his waist, ascends again 
by the pole, and in this way soon loads the balsa. 

From Talcahnano there are considerable exports 
of planks and timber, wheat, and wine of a ver^r 
good quality, from the banks of the Rio Olaro, 
where Lord Cochrane had an estate. NotwHh- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 389 

Standing the fertility of the soil, the poverty of the 
inhabitants in the neighbourhood is so great, that 
most of them are always willing to sell their 
children, and are even glad to give them away. 
Boys and girls, of eight and ten years old, are 
publicly sold as slaves, for three or four dollars. 
Although slavery is prohibited in Chile, the 
Government takes no steps to discourage this traf- 
fic; considering that the children are certainly 
benefitted, by being taken out of the hands of 
parents, who have hardly enough for their own 
support, and are too ignorant and indolent to teach 
them any thing useful. Their purchasers at least 
instruct them in the duties of a servant ; and, when 
they grow up, they can always obtain their liberty 
on application to an Alcalde, if they are discon- 
tented with their masters.^ 

Benancio, a celebrated Araiicano Chief, was at 
Talcahuano with a party of his warriors when >ye 
arrived. His nation was then at peace with Chile, 
having lately received presents from that state, 
and would probably continue friendly as long as 
those presents lasted. It would afterwards make 
war, and ravage all the defenceless farms and 
villages, on the frontiers of Araiico, according 
to the custom of the Araiicanos, until they 
obtained a new treaty, and a fresh distribution 
of presents, which they evidently considered in the 
light of tribute. A plausible excuse for breaking 
these truces was never wanting, as long as there 
were settlers in the country which the Indians 
claim as their own. 

The Araiicanos have never been subdued by the 



390 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUI8B8. 

Spaniards ; although so many once powerful tribes, 
that were their neighboars, have been nearly exter- 
minated. They are all warriors, from the time 
that they are able to hold a lance ; and, like the 
Tartars, subsist on their herds of horses. Although 
they have abundance of cattle in their extensive 
savannas, they prefer mares' and colts' flesh to beef. 
They constantly go bareheaded, their coarse thick 
hair being a sufficient protection against botii sun 
and rain. All of them have a piece of narrow tape 
tied round their head, just above the eyebrows, for 
the purpose of keeping the hair, which is suffered 
to grow long, from covering their eyes. Their 
only clothing is a square piece of coarse blue baiae, 
tied round the waist, open at one side, and reach- 
ing to the knees ; and a coarse black poneho. This 
they wrap round their middle, when prepared for 
battle, as some protection against the lanoe and 
knife, which are their usual wei^ons. The lance 
they use has a small iron head, with a socket, into 
which the end of the pole fits, and is secured by a 
thong of raw hide. The pole is of an extraordi- 
nary length, at least fourteen feet, made of coKniy 
a cane that grows in the plains of Araiico. It is 
very slender in proportion to its length, bat so 
strong and elastic, that in battle they frequently lift 
an enemy out of the saddle with it ; and their usual 
manner of putting their prisoners to death,' is by 
surrounding them, and raising them up on the 
points of several lances. 

The hcfique tree, which produces the coriem FFtn- 
teriaruxy is found in most of the forests in the inte- 
rior of this province ; and is held sacred by 



CAJiPAIONS AND CRUISE8. 391 

the Arsiicano Indians, who carry branches of it 
in their hands, on certain religious festivals and 
ceremonies peculiar to that nation. They also bear 
it in sign of amity, when inviting to a conference, 
or meeting strangers ; in the same manner as many 
of the Polynesian islanders carry plantain leaves. 
This tree grows to the height of forty or fifty feet ; 
has leaves like those of the common laurel ; and 
bears white fragrant flowers. 

On their great feasts, they drink large quantities 
of a very intoxicating chicha, made of maiz, which 
they sow for this purpose ; although no other signs 
of cultivation are to be found amoqg them. The 
elder females of the tribe prepare this beverage, 
by chewing the maiz, which they afterwards collect 
in a trough resembling a canoe ; and having added a 
sufficient quantity of water and chewed roots, leave 
it to ferment, covering the trough carefully with 
mats. Previous to these feasts, which end in preme- 
ditated intoxication, they voluntarily surrender their 
spears and knives to the women, who secrete them 
in ^ woods, as they are conscious of their propen- 
sity to quarrelling and fighting, when excited by 
liquor. A guard is always appointed, from among 
the warriors, who retain their weapons, and taste 
no chicha until the nesct day. On particular occa- 
sions of rfjoicing, diey drink tliis beverage mingled 
with horses' blood, which, they believe, endows 
them with preternatural strength and agility. 

Benancio, who is in reality an obliging old chief, 
when his warlike propensities are not interfered 
with, and fond of the English, observing our curi- 
osity respecting his people's manners and customs, 



392 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

ordered them out to perform a sham-fight on horse- 
back, with blunt lance- poles alone. There ap- 
peared to be no sort of reg^arity in their manoeu- 
vres, each warrior acting independently of the rest. 
Their activity in parrying a thrust, and in evading 
it, by throwing themselves nearly imder the horse's 
belly, and immediately recovering their seat, was 
admirable. Some of them had their bridles fas- 
tened to the stirrups on each side, and guided their 
horses in that manner ; having thus both hands at 
liberty, for the management of the lance. 

After this review, Benancio, with his two sons, 
and some of the inferior Caciq^ues, were invited on 
board, as' directions had been g^ven Capt. Wilkin- 
son, by the Government, to treat this Chief with 
attention ; for the Araucanos are a very pimctilions 
race, and entertain high notions of the importance 
of their nation. Benancio conversed cheerfully, 
and was pleased with every thing he saw ; as was 
also his second son, who had been educated at the 
College in Santiago, and appeared a modest well- 
informed youth. The eldest son, and the Caciques, 
paid no attention to any thing, except the corned 
beef and Pence wine, provided for their entertain- 
ment. They scarcely uttered a word, except when 
asking, through their interpreter, an European who 
was domesticated among them, for their regdlo^ or 
customary present. They were all given coloured 
handkerchiefs, which they tied round their heads, 
except Benancio and his youngest son ; both of 
whom wore decent-looking uniforms, and cocked 
hats. We observed, on this and other occasions, 
that it was customary with them to express the 



CAlfPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 393 

greatest contempt, by scornful gestures and gri- 
maces, for any present, however valuable and really 
pleasing to them, they are offered. This, their in- 
terpreter assured us, was designed to show their in- 
dependence, and to impress strangers with^in idea 
that their nation is wealthy. 

The Araiicdnos, indeed, boast, with great apparent 
complacency, that their country contains many rich 
mines of a singularly pure and brilliant gold. These, 
when formerly worked by the Spaniards, were so 
very productive, as to require two mints to be kept 
up ; at Valdivia, and Ozomos. But the Araiica- 
nos, who were impatient at the concourse of stran- 
gers attracted by the wealth of theii land, stopped 
up the veins, and have forbid,under no less a penalty 
than death, all attempts to reopen them. 

The old Chief told us, in the presence of his sons, 
that he had already made choice of the youngest to 
succeed him as head of the tribe. He was, he 
observed^ much fitter for a chief than his brother, 
both on account of the education he had received, 
and because his eldest son was as ignorant, and as 
fond of chicha, as he himself. On their leaving tlie 
ship, Benancio was saluted with ^ve guns, which 
gave him and his followers the greatest satisfaction, 
and was answered by the wildest yells of joy, from 
his followers on the beach* 

Hie recruits, that we were expecting, arrived 
from Concepcion, and other parts of the neighbour- 
hood, and we began to embark them. We observ- 
ed that, though styled volunteers, they were 
brought down to the beach under a guard of cavalry ; 
and many of them were tied together, to prevent 

s3 



394 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

them from ttci^iiig'. la shorty they pvoved to be 
deserters, criminals from jails, and vagabonds oi 
every description, of which each village Alcalde in 
the province had apparently contributed his qnota. 
The greater part of them wmre neariy naked, and 
all of them half-starved and sickly. There wore 
also about a doaen huaekas, or orphan children, pat 
on board by the Governor Benevente, to be taken 
to Valparaiso^ and either distributed among the 
men of war, or given as servants to private fiuni- 
lies. In the whole, about four hundred of these 
passengers were embarked, all of them in as filthy 
a coadition » wu to be expected, from men ja«t 
out of a South American calahoao. It was abso- 
lutely necessary to separate them from the ship's 
company, by means of a canvass screen nailed across 
the beams of the steerage ; but, notwithstauding 
every precaution, a fever of the kind called here 
chavaUmgoy and the small -pox, almost inmiediately 
made their appearance among them, and were 
speedily communicated to our people. A northeriy 
gale, unfortunately, detained us m Talcahuano, for 
three or four days after their coming on board ; 
and the passage was afterwards more than usually 
tedious, on account of variable winds. The conse- 
quence was that, by the time we arrived at Valpa- 
raiso, several had died, and a great many were sent 
immediately to the hospital. All the children took 
the confluent small -pox; and more than half of 
them died. We lost several of our own men by 
the cJvavahngo ; and, much to our sorrow, Capt. 
Wilkinson was taken ill the day of our arrival, and 
died in thirty-six hours. 



CAMPAIOK8 AND CRUI8B& 395 

The ladependencia was shortly after sent to 
Coqaimboy under the command of Capt. Delano. 
She carried thither Capt. Forster, who was ap- 
pointed to command the squadron, with several 
other officers ordered to join the Lautaro, which 
was lying there, in company with the Motezuma. 
This is. a safe harbour, within a league and a half 
of llie city of La Serena, the capital of the province 
of Coquimbo. It has, of late years, become a 
place of importance, in consequence of the number 
of foreigners attracted there, by the silver and 
copper mines in that part of Chile. 

The city of La Serena is dean and well-built ; 
and contains several handsome convents and 
churches. A small stream runs through it, which 
^[lables the owners of houses, situated near the 
banks, to cultivate small gardens. The soil, near 
the coast, is in general arid, and so sandy, that a 
canal was attempted between the city and the port, 
for the convenience of transporting ore to be em- 
barked, but it has been relinquished, from the im- 
possibility of procuring sufficient water to keep it 
filled. The fruit most esteemed here is the lucu- 
ma^ which is the same as the mericdri of tne Lla- 
nos of Varinas. This is in great request, in the 
more southern parts of Chile, where the fruit will 
not come to perfection ; but is apparency sought 
for more on account of its rarity, than any pleasing 
flavour, oi* refreshing quality that it possesses. It 
is about the size of a large pear, of a sweetish 
insipid flavour, containing in the centre a large 
kernel, resembling that of the avocato. The prin- 
cipal manufacture, in La Serena, is that of copper 



896 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

ware, which is sold here by weight, for little more 
than the price the workman pays for the un- 
' wrought metal. The difFerence is very trifling, 
considering the tedious way in which the ware is 
hammered out, solely by hand, from a solid Imnp 
of copper. 

After having received on board the troops, which 
were in readiness at Coquimbo, the Lautdro and 
Independencia sailed for Talcahuano, where Freyre 
was waiting with the remainder of the army. We 
were shortly afterwards joined by the corvettes 
Voltaire and Chacabuco, and the brig Gralvarino, 
besides five transports. After some delay in taking 
in provisions and water, and in properly distribut- 
ing the different corps among the men-of-war and 
transports, we sailed for Valdivia, where we were 
to receive a reinforcement from the garrison, pre- 
vious to attacking Chiloe. 

Major Hines having returned to Europe, and 
Major H. Ross having retired on half-pay, I became 
senior officer of the Marine battalion, and was ex- 
changed from the Independencia, by the comman- 
der-in-chiefs orders, to the Lautdro, where the 
President's flag was flying at the main. TTiis frigate, 
which was formerly a large East Indiaman called 
the Windham, was excessively crowded. She had 
on board, in addition to her own complement of 
sailors and marines, the 7th regiment of Cazadores, 
commanded by Col. Rondizoni ; some artillery 
officers and privates ; and the whole of the Presi- 
d(mt's staff and body-guard, besides commissaries 
and engineers. There were also several horses 
between decks, and a few bullocks : — ^these last, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 397 

however, were not long in our way. The confu- 
sion that arose among so many men of different 
corps, who were most of them emharked for the 
first time, was necessarily great, while lying in the 
harhour. It was much increased on getting out to 
sea, where the vessel hegan to roll heavily ; for 
which the Lautaro, heing a wall-sided ship, was 
notorious in the squadron. 

The expedition, having been dispersed by a gale 
of wind, put into Valdivia, after a tedious passage 
in the heat of summer, against the trade wind. 
After receiving the garrison on board different 
vessels, and having filled up the water casks, we 
were detained nearly a fortnight, being unable to 
leave the harbour in consequence of foul winds. 
While lying close to each other, near Fort Corral, 
we had the music of no less than five military bands, 
accompanying the expedition, which continued to 
play from morning to night, with scarcely any inter- 
mission, to the great delight of the criole officers 
and soldiers. But, as almost all the musicians ^ 
composing the bands were, in the strictest sense of 
the word, learners, their constant practising was 
net among the least of the minor ^^ Miseries of the 
Expedition." 

Those who have been accustomed to the quiet 
and comfort of a British man-of-war, can form no 
idea of the confusion, and total absence of both, in 
the gun-room of a patriot frigate carrying troops. 
The criole officers of the army, who were almost 
all illiterate and ill-bred, had no idea of mutual ac- 
commodation. Although they in no way contri- 
buted to the mess, they took care always to crowd 



398 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES* 

the table at meal times, to the total exclusion of 
the officers of the ship. Besides, as all Soath 
Americans are inveterate gamblers, and by no 
means patient and philosophic on experiencing a 
reverse of fortune, there was a constant succession 
of cards, dice, and quarrels, during the whole 
passage. 

Between Valdivia and the entrance of the Archi- 
pelago, the Lautiro was within a very little of 
being blown up, by the criminal carelessness of the 
troops, who would pay no attention whatever to 
the established rules of the service. As it was im- 
possible for all their rations to be cooked at once 
at the galley fire, on account of the number em- 
barked, some of them, too impatient to wait for 
their turn, determined to have a separate fire of 
their own, for the purpose of broiling their char- 
qui. Having procured some shingle- ballast from 
the hold, which they spread on the planks of the 
berth-deck, they succeeded in kindling a fire there, 
without being observed by any one belonging to 
the ship. Some embers fell through between the 
pebbles, which they used as a hearth, and set fire 
to the planks, causing such a smoke, as to fill the 
space between decks, and send all the soldiers up 
the main hatchway in alarm, without having the 
presence of mind to attempt extinguishing the fire. 
The panic was increased among the troops, on its 
being ascertained, that the part of the deck, which 
was burning, was immediately over the fore 
powder-magazine. Providentially fur us all, it 
only continued to smoulder, without bursting into 
a flame, to which circumstance may be attributed 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 399 

our preservation ; for there was very little circula- 
tion of air beloWy the ports being caulked in, and 
the fore-hatches on the upper deck being laid over, 
in consequence of a heavy sea that was running. 
The smoke was so thick, as to render it extremely 
difficult for any one to approach that part of the 
^p that was burning. The fire was at length, 
however, extinguished, chiefly through Freyre's 
personal exertions ; and found to have burned 
through two thirds of the planks over the maga- 
zine. The alarm subsided, on this being made 
known; but had become so violent among the 
troops, while their fate appeared uncertain, that 
they were completely ungovernable. Some en> 
deavoured to lower boats, which must have been 
instantly swamped by the heavy sea ; others tried 
to make themselves heard on board the nearest 
vessels, which were beyond the reach of their 
voices ; and not a few, even of the officers, stripped 
off their coats, and prepared t« jump overboard. 

On arriving at the point of Huachucuctii, Freyre 
assembled a council of war, as was his custom on 
almost every occasion ; in which, after asking the 
opinion of some of the senior officers, it was de- 
termined to pass by the harbour of San Carlos, 
and to proceed through theFarellones de Carelmapu 
to Chacao. To this irresolute conduct ^^ may be at- 
tributed the failure of the expedition ; for it wa« 
afterwards ascertained, from the Governor Qulnta- 
nilla himself, on his surrendering in a subsequent 
campaign, that, had the ships entered the harbour of 
San Carlos in the first instance, he would have im- 
mediately capitulated. He bad received no intel- 



400 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

ligence whatever, that the Grovemment of Chile 
was preparing to attack the Archipelago. It was, 
besides, the time of harvest, and all the militia- 
men were at their chacras^ busied in collecting their 
crops ; none being left to man the batteries and 
gnn boats. So persuaded were the inhabitants of 
San Carlos, that Chiloe would inevitably Ml into 
the hands of the patriots, that immediately on the 
appearance of the squadron, they began to conceal 
in the woods what vduable property they were 
possessed of. Even after we had passed through 
the Farellones, and were anchored at a pass called 
Los Remolinos, opposite the point of Carelmi^u, 
an officer belonging to H. M. S. Fly, then lying 
at San Carlos, came on board the Lantdro, for the 
express purpose of requesting the President to 
order all British property, found on entering San 
Carlos, to be respected. 

After a slight resistance from the battery of El 
Coronel, the squadron arrived at Chacao, from 
whence the Chilotes fled, having burned what ves- 
sels lay there, on our approach. The army 
landed here, and remained for some time unac- 
countably inactive. Meanwhile Quintanilla, having 
recovered from his first surprise, showed great 
activity in collecting the militia and Indians, from 
the different islands through which they were dis- 
persed, and in reinforcing all his points of defence. 
The Est^ro de Pudeto, a creek surrounded by 
swamps, through which the army must have passed 
on the direct road from Chacao to San Carlos, he 
so thoroughly fortified with breast-works, and 
flanked by gun-boats, as to render it impossible to 
be forced. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISKS. 401 

While we lay at Chacao, the Voltaire was driven 
out to sea, through the Farellones passage, during 
the night, hy the strong currents that prevailed ; 
and, while endeavouring to return to her anchor- 
age, unfortunately took the ground on a sand bank 
near Oarelmapu, and was totally lost, by almost 
immediately oversetting, although her masts had 
been promptly cut away. Her officers and crew 
barely escaped with tiieir lives ; not having time 
to save a single article of their property. 

The army, while endeavouring to reach San 
Carlos, by a circuitous route, fell into several am- 
buscades, in which they suffered severely, from 
their ignorance of the country. They were at 
length obliged to retreat to Chacao, after having 
been unsuccessful in one or two attacks ; during 
which they were entangled in thick marshy woods, 
and were easily cut up by the Chil6tes. These 
Indians are generally good marksmen, and prefer 
bush-fighting to the open field. 

The whole squadron now dropped down to the 
Remolinos, where Freyre remained for some time 
in doubt whether to sail for San Carlos, as he 
ought to have done at first, or to retreat altogether. 
At last a second accident happened among the 
shipping, which, by depriving him of the assist- 
ance of his largest vessel, immediately determined 
him on returning to Chile. 

The Lautdro having been moored nearly in 
mid- channel, the transport brig Tucapel, comman- 
ded by an obstinate or malicious old Grallego, on 
dropping down from Chacao with the ebb, came to 
an anchor immediately a-head of her. The brig 



402 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

shortly afterwards dragged ber anchors, in conse- 
quence of the violence of the cnrrenti and drov^ 
right athwart hawse of the frigate^ ^ntaiigling her 
main rigging with the Lantiro's^ bpwspril^ The 
TucapeVs mainmaiit soon w:enl«by th|9. l^piMidi; and, 
although both the LaKt^'s caUe^ were veered 
out to the clench, she could not deai^ the bng> 
which was ia imminent danger of t^ing sucked 
under the frigate's bows, and snnk^ It wa^ further 
observed, thai; the Lautdro's anchors could not hold 
her with this additioni|l strain on t)ien| ; and that 
she was driving fast towards a reef o£ rocks right 
astern, on which the sea was breaking heavUy. 
Capt. Forster, therefore, gave orders for both cables 
to be cut, and sail to be made on the ship, so as to 
clear the rocks. Having succeeded in getting 
safely through the Farellones, it was found to be 
impossible to rejoin the expedition, without risking 
the almost certain loss of the ship, which was now 
left without anchors or cables. She was, therefore, 
carried to Valparaiso, leaving behind the President 
himself, and his numerous corUge^ to be accommo- 
dated, as they best could, among the smaller 
vessels. 

The expedition re-embarked, after the Tucapei 
had been fitted with a jury main-mast ; and re- 
turned, without having succeeded in the enter- 
prise. The passage, though short, was most dis- 
tressing; the ships being so lumbered up with 
men and arms, that there was scarcely room to 
manoeuvre them. There was no possibility of 
cooking for a quarter of the number ; and water 
was excessively scarce. 



CAMPAIGNS AKD ORUISEfl. 403 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

ADMIRAL BLANCO'S EXPEDITION. — LAST SPANISH FLEET 
DOUBLES CAPE HORN. SAILS TO CALLAO. — MEETS AD- 
MIRAL OUISE. — PROCEEDS TO LA MANILA. — HUACHI- 

NANGOS MUTINY. CARRY LA ASIA TO ACAPULCO, AND 

EL AQUILES TO VALPARAISO. — SURRENDER OF CALLAO. 

BOLIVAR THREATENS CHILOE. — FREYRE ATTACKS THE 

ARCHIPELAOO. — ARMY LANDS. SHIPS ENGAGE THE BAT- 
TERIES. QUINTANILLA CAPITULATES. LAST SPANISH 

FLAG HAULED DOWN. — CHILENO SQUADRON SOLD TO 
BUENOS AYRES. — FRIGATE O^HIGGINS, CAPT. COBBETT, 
FOUNDERS OFF CAPE HORN. 

Tub frigate O'Higgins was once more ordered 
by the Government to be put in commission ; and 
the command of her given to Capt. H. Cobbett, 
nephew of the celebrated Editor of the '^ Register." 
After she had been hove down, new-coppered, and 
fitted for sea by him, he was transferred to the In- 
dependencia by Admiral Blanco f Ciceron, who 
hoisted his flag in the frigate, taking with liim 
Capt. Forster as ler, and Capt, Simpson as 2do 
Comandante. Ci^t. Wooster resumed the com- 
mand of his old ship the Lautaro. 

Intelligence had been received overland from 
Baenos Ayres, by way of Mendoza, that some 
Spanish men-of-war had been spoken, on their way 
from Europe to Cape Horn. In consequence of 
this, Admiral Blanco was sent from Chile with 
the O'Higg^ns, Independencia, Chacabuco, and 
Moteznma, to co-operate with the Peruvian squad* 
ron under Admiral Martin Guise; and to assist 
him in blockading such of the Puertos Intermedios 
as were still in the possession of the royalists. 



404 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

A Spanish squadron, consisjiing of the Asia 64, 
a frigate of 44 guns, and the Aqoiles 20, having 
passed Cape Horn, anchored in the harbour of 
San Carlos, a few days atlter the late unsuccessful 
expedition from Chile had withdrawn itself firom 
the Archipelago. These ships having refitted here, 
after their long passage from Spain, (for no har- 
bour was now open for the reception of Spanish 
vessels at Rio de la Plata, as formerly) and being 
recruited with several criole sailors, whom they 
pressed among these islands, they proceeded down 
the coast of Peru, touching at different ports, and 
pressing fresh recruits wherever they came ; — an 
imprudent step, which eventually caused the loss 
of the ships. They fell in with the Motezuma off 
Arica ; but she escaped by her fast sailing, with 
the assistance occasionally of her sweeps, although 
nearly surrounded by them in the bight of the 
bay of MoUendo. The next day, they chased the 
other three Chileno ships for a considerable dis- 
tance, until dusk; Admiral Blanco declining to 
engage them. They then proceeded to Callao; 
and, on entering the bay, met with a most spirited 
resistance from Guise, alone, in the frigate La 
Prueba. He engaged the Spanish 64, and her 
second the frigate, for a considerable time, until 
they got far within the island of San Lorenzo, and 
took shelter under the fire of the forts. 

The Spanish commodore soon saw clearly that, 
although the castles of Callao might still be held 
out by Rodil, the royalist general, the cause of 
Spain was quite hopeless in S. America ; and that 
the safety of the ships under his command would 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 405 

be endangered by any longer stay on a coast, where 
no provisions nor stores were to be obtained. He 
therefore determined on returning to Ehirope, by 
way of La Manila ; as he did not think it advisable 
to attempt to double Cape Horn again, with no 
friendly port near, in which he might take refuge, 
in case of receiving any serious damage. 

A considerable number of criole sailors were on 
board, as has been before observed, having been 
pressed into the service in different places on the 
coast ; and, while the ships were at Callao, Rodil 
put on board them all the patriot seamen who 
were among the prisoners in the Casas-Mata$. 
These men were, naturally enough, discontented at 
the prospect of being carried to Spain ; for they 
considered it as a sentence of banishment for life 
from their homes, to which they could have little 
or no chance of returning from Europe. They 
therefore determined among themselves to rise 
on the Spaniards, at the very first opportunity, 
and make a desperate effort to take the ships from 
them ; preferring to be killed in the attenipt, 
before going to Spain. The opportunity they 
waited for was given them on a small island, at 
which they touched on their way to the Manila. 
They rose simultaneously on board the Asia and 
Aqniles, in the absence of the frigate ; and having 
seized the arms, which were imprudently kept for 
show in an ornamented arm-rack, under the poop- 
awnings of both vessels, su:xeeded in master- 
ing the Spaniards. By their own account, they 
killed very few, having set the greater part ashore, 
only reserving a small number to navigate and 



406 cAMPiQcara akd oruxsbs. 

assist in working the vessels to California ; but it 
is scarcely credible, that many of those very men 
who had pressed them, and were conveying them 
from their homes for ever, shonld be so humandy 
dealt with. At California they obtained provi- 
sions, and pressed into their service, as pilot, an 
English settler, by name Lampfor, who was 
married in the country, and was so impmdent as to 
dine with them on board, at their invitation. 
Then, having chosen officers among themselves, 
they proceeded to di£ferent ports to surrender the 
ships. The Asia was delivered np to the Mexi- 
cans at Acapulco, the greatest part of her crew 
being Huachinangos^ or crioles of the leeward 
coast; and the Aqniles, whose new commander 
and most of her sailors were CholoSy hoisted the 
Chil^no flag, and came to Valparaiso. 

As no intelligence whatever had been received 
of the Spanish men-of-war, after the time of their 
leaving Callao, the appearance of such a large brig 
of war as the Aquiles, with the Chil^no flag flying, 
caused no small surprise and alarm in the port of 
Valparaiso. It being well known that there was 
no vessel of her class belonging to the squadron, 
it was immediately conjectured to be a rusede 
guerrt of the Spaniards, and preparations were 
made to receive the supposed enemy in a hostile 
manner. All doubts, however, were dissipated by 
the arrival of a boat from the stranger. She was 
pulled by Chil^nos, who were recognized by many 
on their landing ; and steered by a zambo, formerly 
a shore-boatman belonging to the harbour, who had 
assumed the title, and even the epaulette, of one 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 407 

of her former officers. The captors were paid, or 
radier promised, by the Ck>yenimeiit, a handsome 
sum for this valnable addition to the navy of Chile ; 
and the self-constituted officers were permitted to 
retain their ranks, but were disembarked and put 
on half-pay. 

The Aqniles, a fine Bordeaux-built brig, was 
nearly new, and mounted twenty long 12-pounders. 
The command of her was given to Capt. Wooster, 
who r^noved to her, with all his officers, from the 
Lantdro, which was partially dismantled. Rodil 
having at length capitulated, and surrendered the 
castles at Callao, no ^Eurther blockading squadron 
was necessary. Admiral Blanco, therefore, re- 
turned to Valparaiso, with the ships under his 
conmiand. 

The royalist army having been totally and 
finally defeated in Alto Peru, by the Colombian 
forces under Sticre, Bolivar turned his attention 
towards the Archipelago of Chiloe, in which remote 
point the last usurpers of the land still lingered. 
Having pledged himself, at the commencement of 
his career, never to sheath the sword, while a single 
Spaniard was in arms between California and 
Cape Horn, he was particularly anxious to 
reduce these islands with Colombian troops, 
that his own more immediate coiptrymen might 
have the glory of expelling from the land the last 
of the oppressors. At the same time, he was far 
from being insensible of the advantages which 
would accrue to Colombia, by annexing to her 
territory this important point in the South Pacific, 
as it affords such a convenient harbour for vessels 



408 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

arriving from the eastward. He therefore decided 
on sending an expedition to attack Chiloe, and 
appointed the Ex-director of Chile, 0*Higgins, to 
the command ; not doubting that Gen. QuintaniUa 
would be more easily reconciled to a capitulation, 
and surrender, to a veteran of reputation for mili- 
tary skill, such as O'Higgins, than to any chief 
who might be less known in the South of America. 

The Government of Chile, which had long en- 
tertained great jealousy of the Libertador Bolivar, 
was seriously alarmed at these preparations, which 
threatened to deprive that republic of any chance 
of taking Chiloe. This was considered the height 
of injustice ; for this province formed a con\ponent 
part of the Presidency of Chile, in the time of the 
Spaniards An expedition was, therefore, hastily 
fitted out, consisting of the O'Higgins, Lautaro, 
Independencia, Chacabuco, Aquiles, and Galvarino, 
besides transports. Adm. Blanco again hoisted 
his flag on board the O'Higgins, and Freyre took 
command of the land forces, consisting of five regi- 
ments of infantry, and a few field pieces; the 
charge of the Government having been again en- 
trusted, for the tim e, to a junta composed of three 
distinguished citizens. 

After having touched at Valdivia, where the 
1st regiment, which was in garrison there, joined 
the expedition, the ships proceeded to Chiloe, and 
anchored in the Bahia Ingleza, between Huachu- 
cuciii and the castle of Agiii ; the enemy abandon- 
ing and blowing up a battery that commanded the 
anchorage. As the place where the men of- war 
were to anchor, after having forced their way into 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 409 

1^6 harbour of San Carlos, ¥ras exactly under the 
gwii» of fort Baraciira, a detachment of cazadores 
was sent round Agui, in the night, which succeeded 
in surprising the former fort, and spiking the guns. 
The rest of the army, having been disembarked, 
was ordered to proceed to the same place under 
cover of the woods; while the squadron was to 
fight its vray through the batteries and gun-boats, 
and come to an anchor opposite the town of San 
Carlos. The Lautdro was ordered to remain at 
the Bahia Ingleza ; as most of her guns had been 
struck down into the hold, for the better accommo- 
dation of troops on board, and she was acting as 
an armed transport. As it was not thought proper 
to let the O^Higgins go in, until the batteries had 
been silenced, the Admiral shif^d his flag to the 
Aqniles. 

Early the next morning, the four vessels which 
were ordered for that service weighed, and stood 
in to the harbour, engaging the batteries and gun- 
boats as they passed. Although the firing was 
heavy, at point blank distance from Agiii, and the 
launches moored under the guns of the castle, very 
little damage was done to the shipping. The 
Aquiles, as she hove to, and engaged Agiii closer 
than the rest, besides being a conspicuous mark, 
from carrying the Admiral*s flag, was the most cut 
up in spars, sails, and rigging. The enemy's gun- 
boats retired into San Carlos for protection ; one 
of them having been cut ofi^ by the ships* boats, 
with the loss of Lieut. Hoxley alone, who was 
killed while in the act of boarding. The batteries 
that still held out were Agiii, Campo Santo, El 

T 



410 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Carmen, and Pnquil^gui; besides a six-gun fort 
near the landing place. The army reimbarked, 
during the night; and the ships having hauled 
over, so as to be within range of the opposite 
shore, all the troops were again landed, and pre- 
pared to attack Quintan ilia's position. 

Freyre finding it extremely hazardous to ad- 
vance, on account of the enemy's gun-boats com- 
manding the beach, along which the troops would 
have to pass, the admiral called for volunteers to 
cut the launches out ; and a sufficient number soon 
offered themselves, from the seamen and marines of 
every ship. Capt. Bell of the Lautaro, not wishing 
to remain inactive in the Bahia Ingleza, while the 
rest of the men-of-war were in action, followed 
them into the harbour in his gig, and received the 
command of the boarding party. This was by no 
means an easy enterprize ; for the launches, most of 
which carried two guns, besides small arms, were 
moored inside the mole of San Carlos, protected by 
the tire of four batteries, and above two hundred 
infantry on tlie beach. The boats of the squadron, 
however, got nearly alongside of them undiscov- 
ered before day-break ; and we succeeded in 
cutting out six gun-boats, under an incessant 
and very heavy fire. One, only, made its escape, 
through the morning mist, up the Elst^ro de 
Pud6to, where it was scuttled. After having 
brought them off in safety, they were made use of 
against Puquilegiii ; for this fort, being situated on 
the beach, was a great impediment to the advance 
of the patriot army. 

The day was unusually fine and clear. It 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 411 

was particularly remarked by the Chilenos, who 
considered it as an omen of success, that tho 
Pico de Villarica, one of the principal volcanos of 
their country, was very distinctly visible, in full 
action. The Huazos, on board the Aquiles, re- 
peatedly pointed to it during the battle, exclaiming 
that '^ Tahita Cordillera** was umpire between his 
children and the Godos ; and calling the long line 
of black smoke, that was issuing from the crater, 
and drifting with the trade- wind to the northward, 
his signal to renew, for the last time, the fatal 
" guerra a la muerte,** 

Frejrey on being apprized of our successful 
attadc on the launches, commenced close action 
with the Spanish forces, having attacked their posi- 
tion in the wood, and on the heights opposite the 
shipping. Every manoeuvre of both armies could 
be as distinctly seen from the men-of-war, whoso 
tops and rigging were crowded with spectators, 
(that had already played their part,) as if it had 
been represented in a panorama. The firing of 
the forts, too, answered by the fleet of patriot 
gun-boats, which exultingly displayed the ensign 
of Chile over that of Spain, assisted to fill up a 
most beautiful, as well as highly interestin<>^ 
moving picture. 

Puquilegui having been at length silenced, the 
4th regiment rapidly advanced along the beach, 
towards the town of San Carlos, and turned the 
right flank of the Spaniards, who were compelled 
to abandon their position, and retreat by the road 
to Castro. San Carlos having been taken posses- 
sion of by the patriot army, the forts on that side 

T 2 



412 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

of the harbour, were abandoned. The following 
day, Agvi hauled down the last Spanish /lag ,then 
flying between California and Cape Horn, and 
hoisted the Chil^no colours in its stead. Quinta- 
nilla capitulated two days after the battle ; and, 
having received honourable terms, surrendered the 
Archipelago to Chile. He then embarked with 
his family on board the O'Higgins, and took his 
passage to Valparaiso, where he obtained permis- 
sion to reside, until he could find means of return- 
ing to Spain. 

The war with Spain being now completely at an 
end, on the coast of the Pacific, the different par- 
ties in Chile had leisure to quarrel more openly 
among themselves; as is usual in such cases in 
most new republics. After several ephemeral 
governments had appeared, and again been dis- 
solved, Pinto was elected President ; and immedi- 
ately turned bis attention to the reform of many 
flagrant abuses, existing in the several depart- 
ments of the State. This line of conduct, of 
course, procured him a host of enemies ; and 
several conspiracies against his life were soon 
detected, Among these, the plot formed by some 
Serjeants of the President's cuirassier guard, who 
had bound themselves by an oath to assassinate 
him in the palace, to which they had easy access, 
was nearly successful. Some examples, however, 
having been made, by punishing the ringleaders 
with death and banishment, matters became more 
settled ; and Pinto had leisure to proceed in several 
retrenchments, which he had contemplated in the 
national expences. Among the rest, he ordered 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 413 

all the ships of the squadron, with the exception 
of the Aquiles, to he paid off, and laid up in 
ordinary, as they were of no farther immediate 
service ; the officers belonging to them being put, 
at the same time, on the half-pay list. 

The Government of Buenos Ayres, which re- 
public had lately taken the name of Argentina, (in 
allusion to the Rio de la Plata, or silver river) 
being much in want of men-of-war to oppose the 
fleet of the Emperor of Brazil, which was blockad- 
ing the mouth of the river, to the utter ruin of its 
commerce, sent a deputy to Chile, to treat for the 
purchase of some of the ships that were laid up. 
Ai^entina had previously bought some large ves- 
sels, which were meant to have been fitted out for 
men-of-war, both in England and the United States. 
But, afiter having been at considerable expence, in 
enlisting men, and purchasing stores of every des- 
cription for the vessels, they were prevented from 
sailing, by the Governments of both countries ; 
who alleged) that it would be an infraction of the 
laws of neutrality, if they were permitted to pro- 
ceed. The Government of Chile readily consented 
to sell the O'Higg^ns, Independencia, and Chaca- 
biico ; for which vessels, although old, they re- 
ceived a very good price. The Buenos- Ayrean 
agent engaged officers and sailors for the three 
ships ; giving the former liberal advances of pay, 
and the latter handsome bounties. He also laid 
oat considerable sums, on account of the republic 
of Aj^entina, in again coppering and refitting the 
ships preparatory to their doubling Cape Horn ; 
besides purchasing such an abundance of naval 



414 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

Stores (which could not be procured at Buenos 
Ayres on account of the blockade), as completelv 
to lumber the vessels. Nothing was talked of in 
Chile but the liberality of the Buenos- Ayrean Gro« 
vernment; and the streets and caf^ in the port 
were full of officers in the handsome uniform of 
Argentina, anxious for the sailing of the vessels. 
Captain Cobbett hoisted his broad pendant, as Com- 
oddroy on board the O'Higgins, which was parti- 
cularly well manned, and had many Englishmen 
among the ship's company. All the vessels, indeed, 
had more than their full complement of hands; 
many volunteers having obtained permission to go 
round to Buenos Ayres, as supernumeraries, to 
join the ships under Admiral Brown, that were 
short of men. 

Not long after sailing from Valparaiso, when the 
ships were in the latitude of Valdivia, they ex- 
perienced a gale of wind, that damaged them all 
considerably. The Independencia, in particular, 
was so much strained, that she was compelled to 
return ; after having drafted to the O'Higgins se- 
veral officers and seamen, besides putting on board 
of her as much additiontd stores as could be stowed 
between decks, her hold being full. The Indepen- 
dencia could with difficulty be kept afloat until 
slie reached Talcahuano. From thence she arrived 
at Valparaiso, almost in a sinking state, and was 
condemned as unseaworthy. The O'Higgins had 
now on board upwards of six hundred men ; and, 
wlien the Independencia parted from her, was 
reported to be leaky. She was, in fact, an old fir- 
built ship, that had long since run lier time ; and 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 415 

besides having been several times on shore, while 
under the flag of Chile, she had been repeatedly 
hove down, which operation is nearly as trying to a 
ship as lying aground. The last time this unfor- 
tunate vessel was seen, was by the Chacabucu, 
Captain George, which alone reached Buenos Ayres. 
The frigate was then lying to in a gale of wind off 
Cape Horn, and has never been heard of since ; so 
that it appears but too certain that she must have 
foundered at sea with all hands. 

An adventurer, by name Pincheira, had sprung 
up in the province of Concepcion, in the place of the 
notorious Benavides, who was executed in Santiago, 
in the year 1822. This man was a Chileno by 
birth, but of Spanish descent. One of his brothers 
having been shot for some o£Fence by the Govern- 
ment of Chile, Pincheira bound himself by a solemn 
oath (which is generally kept very conscientiously 
in such cases, by even the greatest ruffians in this 
country) to harass Chile, by every means in his 
power ; and never to desist from his settled pur- 
pose of revenge, until he was either seated in the 
President's chair in the palace, or tied to the ban- 
quillo in the Plaza of Santiago. He soon found 
means to collect round him some discontented va- 
gabonds, and deserters ; and, having gained over 
the Araiicano Indians, who are not scrupulous about 
joining any leader, provided only they are indulged 
in a war, he established himself firmly in their good 
opinion and confidence, by allowing them to plunder 
on every occasion, and by even exceeding them in 
deeds of ferocity and cruelty. For the purpose of 
keeping these savage adherents in good humour, 



416 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

by which alone their co-operation could be insured, 
he was constantly planning some expedition against 
the defenceless villages and farms in the province of 
Concepcion. He carried his audacity so far, on 
some occasions, as to surprise small garrisons ; by 
which means he always procured arms and ammu- 
nition, and sometimes recruits. 

The cruelties committed by Pincheira, and his 
banditti, are unprecedented. He invariably put to 
death all the male inhabitants of the villages that 
fell into his hands ; reserving only the females and 
children, whom he distributed for slaves among the 
Indians. It was in vain that the Government sent 
expeditions against him. If they were few in num- 
ber, he set them at defiance; and if they were 
numerous, he avoided them with ease, by retreating 
with his forces, unincumbered by baggage, into the 
plains, or among the recesses of the Cordillera, 
whither it was considered fruitless and highly 
hazardous to pursue him. His guerilla at length 
became formidable to Chile ; and his atrocious con- 
duct on taking the city of Mendoza, which he gave 
up to twenty-four hours' plunder, shows how little 
the Chil nos have to expect from his mercy, should 
he ever enter Santiago ; as it is not improbable, 
both on account of his enterprising active character, 
and the indolen<:e and want of union among the 
Chilenos. 



CAlfPAIONS AND CRUISES. 417 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



PREPARATIONS FOR A TOUR TO ACONCAGUA. — SHOOTING 

WATER-FOWL. CHILENO MYRTLES. SUPPER AT A 

CHACRA. FRUITS. HUMMING-BIRDS. MOCKING 

THRUSHES. — MOUNTAIN POLE-CAT. PEHUECHEN. 

GUANACOS AND VICUNAS. BURROWING OWLS. SHRUBS 

AND FLOWERS. CHILENO LION. OSTRICHES. — INDIAN 

SUSPENSION BRIDGE. BATTLE FIELD OF CHACABUCO. 

RETURN TO SANTIAGO. 



Although the province of Concepcion was kept 
in a state of excitement by Pincheira, there was 
at this time a period of comparative tranquillity in 
the Pacific. A few of us, therefore, availed our- 
selves of this, the first opportunity that had yet 
been afiPbrded us, to see a little more of the interior 
of Chile, — and that at our leisure, — ^than we had 
hitherto been enabled, on the usual tour, from Val- 
paraiso to Santiago and back again. This had 
become tedious and uninteresting by frequent re- 
petition ; and we determined to vary it, by shooting 
our way to the valley of Aconcagua, and returning 
to the port by the old road of Santiago and Casa 
Blanca. 

Previously to our departure, we each purchased 
a tolerably good horse, from the Huazo dealers, for 
prices varying from twelve dollars to a doubloon. 
Experience proves this to be by far the best method 
of travelling in any part of South America ; for 
the trouble and annoyance attending hiring beasts, 
from stage to stage, is inconceivable. Besides, the 

tS 



418 CAMPAIONS AND CRUISES. 

traveller is, in that case, in a great measure depen- 
dant on his peon, who has the charge of the horses, 
as to the precise route he must take, rate of travel- 
ling, and halting places ; not to mention the material 
difference in expence. This, in a long journey, is 
perhaps treble the fee-simple of the beasts with 
which he is furnished ; for he must lay his account 
in never, by any chance, p:etting a good horse, after 
tho first pintor given him by the cunning Huazo on 
leaving the city ; although this will not be allowed 
for in the rate of hire. The peon, too, will feed the 
beasts as he himself pleases ; and, unless subdued 
by determination, will insist on exorbitant charges, 
for what was probably a free gift of barley and 
fodder, from the hospitshle paysdnos. On the other 
hand, a traveller, especially if unattended, may ride, 
halt, and feed his otvn horse, when, where, and how 
he pleases. By attention to its food and comforts, 
lie will get it over more ground than a hired one in 
a given time, and consequently have more leisure to 
see the coiintry. On his return, should he have no 
orcasion for it, he may always dispose of it, in the 
port, for at least as much as it originally cost him. 

We sallied forth on our land cruise, early on a 
tine summer morning, towards the end of November. 
Having passed the Almendral, we turned to the left 
over the little brook, which had then almost lost 
itself in the sandy beach, though so dangerous a 
tord during the winter ; and entered the ruggy 
mountain road, called Las siete Hermanas. Were 
it not a matter of notoriety, that bullock waggons 
used to travel this way to Quillota, a few years ago, 
it would be considered utterly impossible ; for the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISKS. 419 

track has been so completely cut up by earthquakes . 
and winter rains, and so totally neglected, that it is 
reduced to a zanjouy or succession of ravines, along 
which loaded mules can scarcely make their way, 
notwithstanding their well-known strength and 
iigility. 

Near the pretty village of Vina del Mar, seven 
miles from the port, is the lagoon, or rather broad 
creek of Cupui, whose source is in the Quebrada 
de Riquelmen. We called a halt at this estero, 
and commenced operations on the feathered game, 
by killing a wild swan. This bird resembles, in 
size and shape, the common hooper, frequently to 
be seen on the coast of Hampshire, and at the back 
of the Isle of Wight, in hard winters. Its plum- 
age is an unsullied white, except on the head and 
part of the neck, which are of a velvet black; 
and the beak is red. After considerable manoeuv- 
ring, and long dodging among the reeds on the 
banks, we shot a brace of flamencos, which stood 
about a yard and a half high, measuring from th(Mr 
feet to the top-knot on their head. Their plumage 
is beautiful ; the neck, breast and thighs being of a 
bright white ; and the back, and upper part of the 
wings, a brilliant flame colour. The body is not 
quite a foot long ; their head very small ; and eyes 
diminutive in proportion to their beak, which is at 
least six inches. We also killed a ^//f<, commonly 
called a Chileno crane, but incorrectly ; for it 
never roosts in trees, nor is it usually seen far from 
lagoons and marshes, where it is enabled easily to 
wade, by the excessive length of its legs ; — nearl)^ 
a yard. Its neck, too» is rather more than t\v(» 



420 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

feet; and yet its body and head are not laiger 
than those of a moderate sized duck. The Hnasos 
give the nickname of ^^pUlu de lagunti^** to any 
remarkably thin, long-legged person. 

As none of these birds were worth plucking, 
being mere skin and bone, we separated in search 
of more substantial game, having agreed to assem- 
ble at the farm-house of Domingo Urr^ six 
leagues from Valparaiso. In the woods, through 
which we shot, are many different species of 
Ohil^no myrtles. Some of these bear berries, 
which are eagerly sought for by the Indians, for 
the purpose of making a sweet and strong chicha, 
resembling a rich high-coloured wine. The most 
useful species is the cuHn, which grows spontane- 
ously in every part of the country. Its leaves 
resemble those of the Chinese tea-plant, both in 
shape, colour, and fragrance ; and an infusion made 
of them 18 usually given, and with success as we 
often experienced, in cases of fever and indiges- 
tion. The taste is very agreeable, and preferred 
by many Englisli settlers in Chile to that of tea. 
The palqui, another shrub possessing febrifuge 
qualities, is also found here in abundance. Its 
wood, when dry, is so inflammable, that the Hua- 
zos use it for obtaining a light, by whirling round 
rapidly, between the palms of their hands, a small 
pointed stick, resting on a block of it. 

The giilla, or small cocoa-nut tree, is seen in 
clumps along the hills between Valparaiso and 
Conc6n. Its fruit is not so larii^e as a walnut ; and 
grows in large pendent bunches, of many hundreds 
clustered together on a single stem. It closely 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 421 

resembles, in every particular, althoagh in minia • 
ture, the large cocoa-nat ; having a tough, fibrous, 
outer husk, and a hard inner shell, very difficult to 
break; and containing within the kernel, when 
fresh, an agreeable cooling milk. Under these 
trees is found a species of helianthus, which ap- 
pears to be peculiar to Chile, called the mira-sol, 
A resinous matter exudes from it, rather pro- 
fusely in summer, resembling, in every respect, the 
pure incense of Oriental countries. This substance 
is collected by the natives, although in small quan- 
tities, as an acceptable present to their country 
churches and convents, in which it is used, during 
mass, as zahumMo. 

We assembled about mid-day at the rendezvous, 
with havresacks well filled with wild-ducks ; torcd- 
2MSf which are a species of large %rood-pigeon ; 
and zorzales (Chil^no ortolans,) enough for a 
hearty meal. After the siesta, we proceeded along 
the river Concdn to Tavalongo, a small village 
about eight leagues from the port; and, having 
taken the precaution to kill three or four foxes, 
which swarm along this road, and to bring away 
their brushes, we were heartily welcomed at Justo 
Roxas's farm, where we passed the night. 

The fiunily supper, at this house, will give a 
tolerable idea of the every-day style of living in a 
Chil^no farm house. After the usual grace of 
" Bendito y alab4do,** &c. repeated by one of the 
younger children, a basin of strong beef soup, 
highly flavoured with red pepper, and thickened 
with chuchdeoy or coarse maiz meal, was set before, 
each guest. Next succeeded the substantial olla. 



422 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

consisting of a large shin of beef chopped up, 
bones and all, and stewed to rags, with pieces of 
salt pork ; together with potatoes, pumpkins, 
onions, cabbage, and green peas. There was also 
the puchtroy a sort of coarse harricot ; and the 
never -failing tureen of charquicdn and porrdtos. 
Large horns of chicha, chocoli, and wine, were 
handed round in rapid succession ; and, when the 
cloth was removed, a peon walked in with his 
poncho full of fine musk and water-melons, which 
he rolled out on the table by way of dessert. 

The following day, we crossed the hilly country 
to San Pedro, a small Huazo village ; and towardt^ 
evening turned off the direct road to Quillota, as 
far as San Isidro in the valley of Liraache. The 
soil in this part of Chile, close under the lofty Bell 
mountain, or Campana de Quillota, is extremely 
fertile ; and the abundance and variety of fruit, 
which grows here with little or no cultivation, 
astonishes an European traveller. On one single 
plantation he may gather, in the highest state of 
perfection, apples, pears, and quinces ; oranges, 
lemons, aiid citrons ; peaches, apricots, and necta- 
rines ; ciierries, plums, and strawberries; figs, 
grapes, and pomegranates ; olives, chesnuts, wal- 
imts, and almonds, with which he is already ac- 
quainted ; besides the indigenous lucunias, tneloco- 
tones, swtict citrons, and, above all, the luscious 
chirlnnnjay called here, and in Peru, " the Queen 
of Fruit." 

In these extensive orchards, innumerable pigdasy 
(liumming-birds,) flit about, with the abrupt irre- 
gular motion of butterflies ; or hang suspended in 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 423 

the air, like dragon-flies, in front of some flower 
they wish to reconnoitre. Sometimes, when tliey 
are seated on a spray, pruning their delicate win^s 
with their diminutive beak, (which resembles a 
large black thorn,) they may be heard to utter a 
faint song, or rather a succession of scarcely audi- 
ble chirps ; very different from the shrill squeak, 
like that of a bat, which they emit when lighting 
with their tiny rivals on the wing. 

Two species of thrush, the thUi and the tJiencu, 
sing all the year round : the latter is said to have 
no particular note of its own ; but to imitate, and 
improve upon the songs of other birds. The 
curiii is also a mocking thrush. This little plagia- 
rist is frequently tamed, and taught to whistle 
tunes, and pronounce several Spanish words. 
Many other singing birds, such as the xilyuiro, a 
species of goldfinch; theloyca, a linnet; and large 
flocks of greenish yellow canary-birds, build and 
sing in the hedges of the plantations. 

The butterflies seen in this valley are lar<re, and 
brilliantly beautiful in their colours. The two 
most remarkable, which can never be forgotten 
when once seen, are the large hlue papagdf/o (par- 
rot), and the pal&ma (dove). The head and back 
of the former is of a bright red, spotted with 
yellow, and veined with green and sky-blue. Its 
wings, which extend full nine inches, are of a 
greenish blue above, and red beneath ; with a blue 
belly, and purple antennse. The dove butterfly is 
of a silver white ; with jet black l<?gs and 
antennse. 

From hence we proceeded, through Quillota, to 



424 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

the Caesta de Cacliicama, a rugged moontiun, over- 
looking the fertile valley of Tabuco. While 
climbing this steep hill, we saw abundance of the 
jar ilia, a small species of acacia, which distils from 
its bark a very fragrant balsam, highly esteemed by 
the Huazos for its vulnerary properties. So abun- 
dantly does this balsam exude, that even its leaves 
and small branches are completely viscous; and, 
when handled, communicate a perfume that is re- 
tained for some time. We found, on the summit 
of the Cuesta, two or three arri^ros, with a mad- 
rina of mules, resting on their journey from Acon- 
cagua to Valparaiso. One of the peons, as we 
discovered from the laughter and unpolished jokes 
of his comrades, had lately been so unlucky as to 
provoke a chinguey and was still annoyed by the 
usual consequences of his rashness. 

This animal is a species of pole-cat, which, by 
the united testimony of the Huazos, must be even 
more formidable than the skunk of N. America. 
It was described to us as about the size of a cat, of 
a dark blue colour, marked along the back with 
round white spots. It has a very effectual mode 
of defence, in the power of spreading a most dis- 
gustingly fetid odour around it, in which (ntibeper- 
fusd)y it is impregnable to the attacks of man or 
beast. This effluvium is said to spread for at least 
a mile round ; and to render the hunter's clothes 
for ever unfit for service. Even the dogs, when 
perfumed by the chingue, retreat precipitately from 
the charge, howling as if in danger of suffocation, 
to plunge into the nearest water, and roll in the 
sand ; nor will they eat a morsel, however hungry, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. ' 425 

as long as this horrid scent adheres to them. The 
chlng^e is so conscious of its offensive and defen- 
sive powers, that it ventures with intrepidity into 
farm-hoQses, and takes the eggs from under the 
sitting hens, openly, and with perfect impunity ; 
for neither man nor dog, if at all acquainted with 
this pole-cat, will dispute its free ingress and 



The Hnazos of Aconcagua, and many other 
parts of Chile, who, like most half-civilized people, 
delight in listening to and repeating stories that 
horder on the marvellous, unite in declaring, that 
a large species of hat, which they call pehuechen, 
inhabits the remote forests and quebrddas, and 
sallies forth by night, to the destruction of flocks 
and herds, on whose life-blood this vampyre sub- 
sUts. Although every Huazo, of whom I made 
enquiries on the subject, was able to imitate the 
peculiar whistle, or rather funereal shriek, of this 
dreaded animal, and to describe its heavy flight, 
which they liken to that of a partridge, not one 
could take upon him to declare that he himself had 
seen one close. But it is exceedingly rare to meet 
with a native, whose father, brother, or, at farthest, 
compadrCy has not killed one or more, (according 
to his account,) in the very act of sheep killing. 
The Hnazos agree in comparing it to a tame rab- 
bit in size and figure, with a fine brown fur ; large 
and bright ghastly eyes ; sharp beak, and very 
diminutive ears. Its wings, they say, are leathern, 
like those of the common bat, but much thicker ; 
its feet and claws those of a lizard ; and its tail 
spreading and scaly like that of a fish. They 



426 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

universally believe, that it can abstract the blood 
from man or beast, merely by hovering over their 
devoted victim ; and are evidently in a state of un- 
feigned and serious alarm, whenever they hear that 
which they call its cry, during the night. 

The capataz of these muleteers, a fine looking, 
gray-headed, old Huazo, highly flattered by oui* 
attention to his harangue, proceeded to give us a 
particular account of the yuandcoSf vicunasy and 
chilihueqties found in the Cordillera beyond Acon- 
cagua, which we saw directly fronting us, in all 
its dazzling whiteness. These animals, it seems, 
which closely resemble, in size and shape, the 
llamas and alpacas of Peru, have been gradually 
disused as beasts of burthen, and draft in ploughs, 
since ihe introduction of mules : and their breed is 
sensibly and rapidly diminishing in numbers. 

The guanaco is the largest of the three ; its hair 
is more woolly, and better adapted to resist cold ; 
its tail is longer, and better shaped ; and its legs 
and feet are much less clumsy. Its neigh resem- 
bles that of a colt. When provoked, it spits what- 
ever it has been ruminating, mingled with saliva, 
in the face of the aggressor, at several paces 
distance, with an unerring aim. 

The vicuHa is not much larger than a full grown 
goat, which it also resembles in its back, hips, and 
tail. Its fur is very fine, and, in its natural state, 
of the colour of dried rose leaves ; but it is usually 
dyed of various colours, and manufactured into hats, 
shawls, and gloves. It is exceedingly timid, and 
conceals itself in the most rugged and remote 
quebradas, where it is eagerly hunted, notwitli- 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 127 

standing its precautions, and killed for its flesh, 
which is hr preferable to venison. 

The chilihueqne is still more rarely to be found 
in the lower Tallies of the Cordillera. It resembles 
a sheep, in every particular, except in the length 
of its legs and neck ; and is covered with wool, tiiat 
is even finer and longer than iamb's wool. It 
stands about four feet high, from its hind hoofs to 
the insertion of the tail ; and, from thence to the tip 
of the nose, is nearly six feet long. This species 
is found of several di£Ferent colours ; white, black, 
grey, and spotted. 

The old Huazo, who gave us this lecture on the 
natural history of his country, wore at his belt a 
bolzaj or purse, made of the skin of the large Chi- 
l^no lizard, which burrows in the earth in moun- 
tainous districts, preferring for its habitation the 
colonies of the chinchili rat Its body is nearly 
a foot long, and nine inches in circumference, 
covered with minute diamond- shaped scales, n.'- 
sembling those on shagreen, spotted with blue, 
green, black, and yellow. 

Having sufficiently rested our horses, we took 
leave of our friendly capati^z, and his peons, and 
proceeded leisurely along the valley of Tabiico to 
Ocoa. While crossing a sandy tract about a league* 
from the town, we remarked numerous pairs of the 
little pequen, seated basking in ihe snn, on tlie 
heaps of earth which they had thrown up, when 
excavating holes for their nests. This bird is a 
small species of owl, rather less than a sparrow- 
hawk ; with staring yellow eyes ; white breast, 
belly, and tail ; and dark yellow back and wings. 



428 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

The Chil^nos say jocularly, of a person who is in 
the habit of sporting oah^ or concealing himself to 
avoid a visit, — *^ se esconde, comopequen en cueva." 
At the entrance of Oc6a, we saw several fine 
specimens of tlie marten, a beautiful evergreen tree, 
that would make a noble ornament to a park. It 
is usually about thirty feet in height, with spreading 
branches, which hang down regularly like an mn- 
brella. The young shoots, like those of the larch, 
are always covered with flowers, which, in the 
mayt^n, are very small, bell- shaped, and of a 
bright purple. The wood is of a golden yellow 
colour, with numerous green and brown veins, and 
is much used by cabinet makers for veneering. 
The leaves, which are small, and alternate on the 
branches, are of a vivid green, and form a favorite 
food for deer and horned cattle, which will break 
through any fence to procure it. The latter, since 
their introduction, have almost extirpated this valu- 
able tree. The Huazo iniprovisatori, or Chingan^ros, 
who perpetually allude, in their extemporaneous 
compositions, to subjects well understood by and 
familiar to their hearers, compare a beautiful woman 
to the young branch of this tree ; as, for instance, 

'< Mariquita de mi ahna ! 
" CogoUito de mayten ;" &c. 

The natives of Ocoa also cultivate the Jioripdn- 
dio in their gardens. This is one of the most 
magnificent and fragrant fiowers in Chile, or, per- 
haps, in the whole of S. America. It is funnel- 
shaped, about nine inches long, by eighteen in cir- 
cumference at the margin of the calyx, of a brilliant 
white colour like that of frozen snow. It exhales 



CAMPAIGNS ANB CRUISES. 429 

SO delicious a scent, closely resembling that of 
amber, as to perfume the whole garden that contains 
it : cTen jasmines and roses, growing in its neigh- 
bourhood, can scarcely be perceived. The leaves 
are rather longer than the flower, and of a hand's 
breadth, covered with a soft silky down. The 
stalk is higher than a man on horseback, and about 
as thick as an ordinary bambu, containing pith like 
that of the plantain. 

ISarly in the morning, we crossed the Cuesta of 
Ocoa, and descended into the plain of LkJlay. 
This is a fertile, weU wooded tract, extending about 
^ix leagues to another Cuesta, bearing the same 
name as the plain. There are here large woods of 
the peumo tree, the fruit of which, though so dis- 
agreeable to all foreigners, is eagerly sought for by 
the PorteBas of Valparaiso. A decoction of the 
bark is said to be very beneficial in cases of dropsy. 
The berries, which are about the shape and size of 
olives, and which also contain a small oval kernel, 
are considered delicacies in Chile, but must be 
steeped for a considerable time in a strong ley of 
wood-ashes, for the purpose of extracting its un- 
pleasant essential oiL 

The moUe^ also, a species of wiUow, grows in the 
plain of Llallay. Its sap, which is extracted like 
that of the maple, by tapping, makes, in the two 
stages of fermentation, a strong and very palatable 
diicha, which the natives prefer to wine ; and a 
very good vin^^. When inspissated, previous 
to fermentation, it produces a good syrup, equal 
to that of the palm. The fishermen of Concon and 
Vidparaiso employ a strong decoction of the bark 



430 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

for the purpose of dying and tanning their nets ; 
so as at once to give them durahility, and render 
them less visible, when under water, by the fish. 

The native potato, called by the Indians maglia^ 
is found in abundance along the bottom of the 
Cuesta de Llalla}^, and forms the favorite food of 
the chinchili rat. These roots, when in their wild 
state, are small in size, and slightly bitter to the 
taste. They are greatly improved by cultivation ; 
becoming sweeter, larger, and tolerably mealy; 
especially when roasted. 

We passed this day, with various success in 
shooting game, through the villages of San Roque 
and Panquegua, to the banks of the rapid river 
where we halted for the night. The quillay, or 
vegetable-soap tree, grows very luxuriantly in the 
neighbouring woods. Its bark, when bruised, and 
infused in water, gives it the property of extracting 
stains of grease or oil of any kind, from all cotton, 
linen, and woollen stuffs, and even from fine silks, 
without injuring them. The natives use the in- 
fusion to wash their heads; and assert that it 
renders the colour of the hair darker, and gives it 
that beautiful lustre, of which the Chil^nas are so 
excusably vain. The passion flower is frequently 
to be seen festooning this tree, with its brilliant, 
star-like flowers, and clinging to its upper branches 
with its tendrils. 

From Panquegua, we followed the course of the 
rapid river Concon, which runs to the Northward, 
through this valley, delightfully cool and dear, 
fresh from its sources in the quebradsis of the 
Cordillera, which we were approaching fast. The 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUIgfiS. 431 

towering Volcan de Aconcagna, rising in the midst 
of the Andes, was all this day a prominent and 
impressive object in the surrounding scenery. 
Towards evening, we crossed a broad and rather 
dangerous ford ; and halted at the Villa vieja de San 
Felipe, in which we conld see little to admire, — 
probably on account of the heat of the weather, 
— besides a very long and broad Alameda. 

We remained here several days, to refresh our 
horses and ourselves, taking occasional short tours 
into the adjoining branches of the Cordillera. T)ie 
S. American lion, called in Chile pdgiy and in PcriL 
puma, is frequently driven down from the moun- 
tain ravines into the adjoining farms, during hard 
winters, by cold and hunger. It usually avoids 
the habitations of men, whom it never presumes to 
attack ; and, when so closely pursued by the dogs, 
as to be unable to escape to the mountains, it climbs 
into a tree, where it waits tamely to be pierced 
by lances, shot, or lazoed, without attempting to 
defend itself. When surrounded, in this manner, 
by the hunters, it is always observed to shed tears, 
which the Indians attribute to terror. From this 
peculiarity ,the Chilenos derive the saying of " llora?- 
como ledn" — " to weep like a lion ;" used in derision 
of the feigned repentance of hardened criminals 
when under the lash of the law. 

The pagi resembles, in figure and roar, t}i<> 
African lion ; but has no mane. Its fur is of a 
dusky brown hue, inclining to yellow on the back ; 
and is whitish on the breast and belly. When full 
grovm, it is two feet and a half from the fore-paw 
to the top of the shoulder, and five feet from snout 



43S CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

to tail. Its head resembles that of a cat, with a 
short snout, large yellow eyes, and short ears. Its 
breast is broad, paws large, and famished with very 
long and stout claws. When driven down by 
famine to the chacrasy it is exceedingly rayenons, 
and destructive among the sheep, calves, and par- 
ticularly young colts, whose flesh, and that of asses, 
it appears to prefer to that of all others. The 
larger cattle are fully able to keep this formidable 
intruder at a distance, with their horns and hoofs, 
by forming a circle for their mutual support, or by 
flight ; unless they happen to be surprised, when 
yoked together by pairs. Then the pagi readily 
kills one, which it drags away to the nearest forest 
or qu6brada, together with the survivor ; compeiling 
the latter, by occasional blows, to follow patiently. 
We repeatedly saw, in our excursions, the 
mdnquey better known, probably, by its Peruvian 
name of condor. This tyrant of the Andes inha- 
bits the most remote ranges ; but levies contribu- 
tions on the neighbouring farms, for many leagues 
round its solitary throne. Its wings, which are 
white, are between twelve and fourteen feet from 
tip to tip. Its body is large, and muscular in pro- 
portion ; plumage black, except on the back, where 
it is of the same colour as the wings. Its head is 
almost bald, its sole covering: being a fine down ; 
and round its neck hangs a falling collar, resem- 
bling a tippet, of short white feathers. Its beak 
is four or five inches long ; slightly hooked ; shaip, 
and stout enough to pierce a bull's hide. It is 
so strong on the wing, that in the breeding 
season, it carries ofi^ sheep, goats, and (if the Hoasos* 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 433 

assertions are deserviDg of credit) even young calves, 
to satisfy its rapacious nestlings. This vulture is 
easily caught, by enclosing some dead animal in a 
fence of stout stakes ; for it is usually so ravenous, 
as to gorge itself to such a degree, that it cannot 
rise from the ground without hopping for a con- 
siderable distance ; and this the enclosure prevents. 

The Indians sometimes bring tame ostriches for 
sale to Aconcagua, from the vallies of the Andes, 
on the Mendoza side. They are called, by the na- 
tives, chiuquis. We saw one at a farm-house, which 
stood as high as a tall man. Its wings were each 
more than a yard in expanse; but tliey are not 
furnished with quills adapted to flight. Its dark 
grey feathers, which are long and flexible, are used 
for parasols, being tied to a cane of the proper size. 

Between San Felipe and the Villa nueva de Sta. 
Rosa, is one of the swi^g^igl^idge^ 
de cimbria, so frequently met with in the ravines 
of the Cordillera. Two thick ropes of tough bull's 
hide, twisted in four strands, like those made in 
Buenos Ayres for tiller-ropes and top- sail sheets, 
are stretched moderatelytight across the river (about 
50 or 60 yards wide), by means of two windlasses 
of piumo wood ; the ropes being supported, on 
each bank, by short horcones of the red thorn tree. 
A platform, six feet in breadth, is laid across these, 
formed of tough black colini cane, such as the 
Araiicano Indians use for lance poles. A yard and 
a half higher are the suspension ropes, made of the 
same materials, and rove in the forks of the taller 
horcones. They are connected with the platform 
by slender zogas of hide at every few feet. This 

u 



434 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

bridge vibrates in a disagreeable manner ; but is 
safe enough, even for loaded mules. It is some- 
tiroes whirled over by violent gusts of wind, and 
then requires some days to re-arrange. 

From Santa Rosa we passed through the valley 
of Aconcagua, about eight leagues long, by three 
wide, surrounded by abrupt mountains of red por- 
phyry, and watered by two torrents, the Aconcagua 
and Putaendo. Having ascended the Cnesta by a 
broad serpentine road, three or four paces wide, 
we obtained a charming view of the valley t$ 
wards Colinas, over the celebrated battle field of 
Chacabucoy. where O^Higgins and San Martin first 
gained a decisive victory over the Spaniards* 

After sleeping at the usual post-house, we passed 
through the ravines leading to the village and warm 
baths of Colinas; and soon saw the w^-known 
spires of Santiago, which we entered by the su- 
burb of La Chimba, and the bridge over the 
Mapocho. On arriving at our quarters, the English 
hotel in the Calle de las Monjitas, we found letters 
from the port, requiring us to join the Aquiles 
without delay, as she was hastily fitting for sea ; 
destination, as usual, unknown. We, therefore, set 
off, the same afternoon, for Valparaiso, and arrived 
there before gun- fire in the morning. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 435 



CHAPTER XXV. 

ALDUNATE'S government. FUENTES' INSURRECTION IN 

CHILOE. AQUILES DETACHED TO THE ARCHIPELAGO. 

INDIANS JOIN ALDUNATE. ARTILLERYMEN GIVK 

UP THE CASTLES. — ^AQUILES' NARROW ESCAPE. THT 

MUTINEERS SURRENDER. FUENTES ATTEMPTS SUICIDl . 

MINT SENT TO COQUIMBO. DIFFICULTIES IN REMOV- 
ING IT. AQUILES SAILS TO CALLAO. THE ANDES Al 

SUNRISE. HUANO. CONSPIRACIES AGAINST PINTO. — 

^PELUCONES AND LIBERALES. INSURRECTION IN 

SANTIAGO. 

At the surrender of the Archipelago of Chiloe, 
itai form of Government was new-modelled, and the 
command of the islands was given to Col. Aldanate, 
a distinguished ChiUno olBBcer. The 4th regiment 
was left there as a garrison ; and a party of artillery- 
men was stationed in the castle of Ag^, and in 
some of the principal forts. Aldunate took the 
most e£Fectual steps to remove the jealousy and de- 
testation with which the Chilotes, so long accustomed 
to be governed by a king, had been taught by their 
priests to regard the patriots ^^*. He abolished the 
oppressive alcabdlasy and vexatious contributions, 
which had been exacted from them by Quintanilla : 
r^^lated the courts of justice, which had degene- 
rated into mere sinks of corruption under the 
government of the Spaniards ; and encouraged the 
inhabitants to increase the exports of the islands, 
by promoting agriculture and manufactures, which 
had been almost totally neglected during the war, 
for want of commerce with other ports in South 
America. 

u2 



436 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

While the state of afiBetirs was thus tranquil and 
promising, a major of artillery, by name Fuentes, 
who had often distinguished himself by his turbulent 
character, formed the design of seizing on the go- 
vernment of the Archipelago, and uniting it to 
Colombia. Having corrupted the artillery, and 
most of the officers of the 4th regiment, by pre- 
sents and lavish promises, he commenced by seizing 
Aldundte, whom, together with every officer who 
refused to join in this revolution, he embarked on 
board a merchant vessel that was in the harbour, 
and dispatched to Valparaiso. He now assumed 
the reigns of government, and totally abolished the 
salutary regulations of his predecessor. The in- 
inhabitants were again heavily burthened with taxes, 
to supply funds for the payment of the troops ; and 
were at the same time treated with unusual injus- 
tice and tyranny. He constantly assured his ad- 
herents, that he was in expectation of assistance 
from Sucre, who was in Alto Peru, which would 
: enable him to hold out against Chile, if she should 
endeavour to dispossess him of the post he had 
usurped. Having raised a few corps of militia 
among the islands, he considered himself perfectly 
secure ; as he was well aware that the navy of 
Chile was now reduced to one brig. 

Immediately on receiving intelligence of this re- 
volution, Pinto ordered the Aquiles to proceed to 
Cliiloe, with La Resolucion transport, which car- 
ried between two and three hundred men of the 
8th regiment, under the command of Lieut. Col. 
Tupper. Col. Aldunate, whose presence was found 
of essential service, went as passenger in the 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 437 

Aquiles ; and the old Indian Governor of Valdivia, 
Picarte, obtained leave to accompany the expedition, 
as an amateur, he himself declared ; trusting to 
chance for returning to his family and government, 
when the business should be decided. 

On appearing off the Farellones, both ships 
hoisted Peruvian colours, which deceived Fuentes 
into the belief that they were the vessels that he 
expected. It is certain that he had written to Alto 
Peru, offering his services, and the command of the 
Archipelago to the Colombians ; but whether he had 
received a promise of assistance from Sucre, is 
doubtful. In the height of his exultation, he em- 
barked in his boat, for the purpose of going on 
board the Aquiles, which he did not recognize ; and 
was half way to her, when some suspicions arose in 
his mind, by observing the vessels delay in entering 
the harbour, which induced him to return to San 
Carlos. 

The captain of the port, Lieut. J. Williams, who 
was a native of Bristol, married in Talcahuano, and 
had previously been an officer on board the O'Hig- 
gins, had been compelled to join the insmTection ; 
but had sent word privately to Chile, that he would 
be in readiness to make his escape to the first 
Chil^no man of war that should make its appearance. 
He knew the Aquiles at first sight, and came off to 
her, bringing with him the felucca belonging to the 
port, and a sergeant's guard of the 4th, which had 
been assigned him as an escort by Fuentes, who 
had some suspicion of his intentions. The 4th re- 
giment had been formerly commanded by a Col. 
Sanchez, who had been banished to Peru by Pinto, 



438 CAMPAIGNS AND GAUISES. 

for haTing been implicated iu some disturbanoe in 
Santiago ; and the soldiers had been persuaded by 
Faentes, that their old colonel, t-o whom they were 
much attached, was coming to resume his command. 
The party, tlierefore, in the felucca, were so eager 
to welcome him, that they came alongside the 
Aquiles without the least suspicion ; and were first 
undeceived by seeing Aldunate standing on the 
quarter-deck. 

The Aquiles, being of course unable to contend, 
single-handed, with the batteries and gun-boats, in 
the harbour of San €ai*los, proceeded with the 
transport to Chacao ; Col. Tupper surprising a fort 
by the way, in which were stationed two officers, 
and a party of soldiers belonging to the 4th, whom 
he made prisoners. On its being known that Al- 
dunate was at Chacao, the Indians brought in pira- 
guas loaded with provisions for the troops, and ex- 
pressed great joy at his return ; each having some 
tale to tell him of the ill-treatment they had expe- 
rienced from Fuentes, during his absence. Many 
alcaldes and militia-men, also, flocked to join him ; 
and Fuentes shortly found himself deserted by all 
but the artillery and the 4th regiment. Even these 
were perfectly disgusted at his tyrannical conduct, 
and continued intemperance ; and were only with- 
held from surrendering, by uncertainty respecting 
the fate that might await them. 

Fuentes, meanwhile, busied himself in sending 
provisions of every kind from San Carlos to the 
castle of Agiii, where he proposed to maintain 
himself, until some assistance should arrive ; having 
completed a second battery there, at the water's 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 439 

edge, for the better defence of the place. He had 
also provided a small sloop, in which he designed 
to make his escape to Peru, in case the succours 
which he expected should be delayed too long. 
All these preparations were frustrated by the 
artillery-men in Agiii, in whom he reposed entire 
confidence ; but who, having risen on their officers, 
and secured them, sent them in a launch to Aldu- 
n^te at Chacao. All the forts and gun*boats fol- 
lowed the example of Agiii ; close to which they 
assembled, and sent in news of their submission to 
Aldunite. On receiving this intelligence, the 
Aquiles took on board the troops, and made sail 
for San Carlos. 

On passing through the Remolinos, the brig 
had a very narrow escape from being lost with all 
on board ; for, the wind being light, she was 
swept by the eddies, from which this channel takes 
its name, among the rocks, where she had barely 
depth to lie at anchor without touching, in a rapid 
eddying current. Had she touched, she must ine- 
vitably have upset ; and the nearest land to us was 
a perpendicular diff, where there would have been 
no chance of saving a single man. After losing 
an anchor and chain, as well as a ked^ and haw- 
^r, we escaped this danger, and came to an anchor 
in our old berth near Barcacura. 

Fuentes had the assurance to offer to capitulate, 
as goTemor of Chiloe ; which was, of course, in- 
dignantly refused by Aldunate. The officers uf 
the 4th then sent a flag of truce, with a letter, in 
which they requested terms to be granted them, 
and attempted to palliate their guilt, by laying the 



440 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

whole blame of the reyolution on Fuentes. Aldu- 
nate, however, insisted on their unconditional sur- 
render; informing them, at the same time, that 
their lives should he spared by him, untO the 
determination of the Government should be known. 
They were obliged to comply with this requisition, 
and were all taken on board as prisoners. Fuentes, 
who had behaved like a madman, and repeatedly 
attempted suicide, was confined in a cabin, with 
a sentry over him, during the passage to Valpa- 
raiso. So determined was he to destroy himself, 
for the purpose of escaping the public and igno» 
minous death he was conscious of deserving, and 
expected to suffer, that, when the Aquiles was 
fumigated near the island of Mocha, on our i^ay to 
Chile, (as a salutary precaution against infection, 
the brig being crowded with troops,) he contrived 
to conceal himself below. On being missed, he 
was dragged on deck, half-suffocated, by two Elng- 
lish officers ; his own countrymen refusing to en- 
danger themselves for him. Most of the privates 
belonging to the 4th were taken to Santiago, 
where they were distributed into di£Ferent corps. 
Fuentes, and three other of the officers con- 
cerned, were condemned to be shot ; but were 
reprieved by Pinto, their sentence being commuted 
into banishment for life. 

Old Governor Picarte, who was a true Indian 
by birth and habits, although a colonel in the 
army, and married into a respectable criole family, 
was extremely urgent with Capt. Wooster to shoot 
half-a-dozen of those officers on the passage to 
Valdivia ; and even seemed to think himself very 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES 441 

• 

much neglected and ill-used, because his request 
was not complied with. On his arrival at Valdi- 
via, he found that the insurrection had extended 
as far as his province ; for a detachment of the 4th 
regiment, that had been stationed at the village of 
Carelmapu, had inarched against the city of Osorio 
in the plains, which they had taken, and were pre- 
paring to enter Valdivia. But, when they heard 
the news we had brought from Chiloe, they quietly 
surrendered. 

The coinage of money having been almost at a 
stand for some time in Santiago, from the scarcity 
of the precious metals in Chile, the mines being 
unproductive and ill-worked, Pinto determined on 
sending the whole of the machinery of the mint 
to Coquimbo, where silver was to be procured in 
greater plenty. This was a bold step to take, 
(however unimportant it may appear in what 
part of the country the money was coined) ; and 
it assisted greatly to render Pinto unpopular among 
the inhabitants of Santiago, whose vanity was hurt 
in a sensible part, by an act which they conceived 
an infringement on the privileges of the capital. 
It was even pretty plainly hinted, by many of 
them, (and subsequent events have rendered the 
conjecture by no means improbable) that Pinto 
was aiming at the aggrandizement of his native 
province, at the expence of Santiago ; and farther, 
as he had a large party in his favour in Coquimbo, 
which he had formerly governed, that he enter- 
tained a design of separating it from the rest of 
Chile, and putting himself at the head of it as 
President of an independent State. 

u 3 



442 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISBS. 

The removal of thia ponderoas machinery, 
some of the large granite slabs, and other solid 
parts, weighing from eight to ten tons, was a puzzling 
task to the engineers of Chile. Several carriages 
were constructed, which were found inefficient on 
the road ; and so frequent and long were the stop- 
pages which occurred, during the time that the 
mint was on its way from the capital to the port, 
that the superstitious part of the community began 
to make serious remarks on the delay, believing 
that there was something unlucky in depriving 
Santiago of this valued privilege. There was also 
no small difficulty in getting the several pieces into 
the launches, to take them alongside of the Aquiles, 
which was destined to convey them to Coquimbo ; 
tliere being neither a wharf nor a crane in Valpa- 
raiso. The whole was, however, at last taken on 
board, by means of a crab and shears, without 
many accidents ; and was conveyed in safety to 
its destination. 

On its being generally known, at La Serena, 
that the mint had arrived at Coquimbo, there were 
great rejoicings on the occasion ; and Pinto cer- 
tainly gained as much in popularity there, by the 
transfer he had made, as he lost in Santiago. As 
no launches could be procured in the port of Co- 
quimbo, two boats were secured together, across 
which a platform was laid, to receive the ma- 
(')iinery. Multitudes of the Coquimbanos assem- 
bled at the landing place, to assist in getting it 
ashore ; and a band of music marched down from 
La Serena, purposely to welcome its arrival. 
The people even harnessed themselves to the car, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 443 

which was prepared to convey it to the city ; and 
woald doubtless have drawn it there, to evince 
their joy, bat that the road was unfortunately so 
sandy, that nearly a week was occupied in convey- 
ing each of the pieces to its appointed place. 

From Coquimbo we proceeded to Callao, having 
on board a special envoy, by name Truxillo, sent 
by the Government of Chile to Lima. As we ran 
along the coast with a fair wind, we frequently 
saw the Cordillera, covered with perpetual snows ; 
an object which never fails to attract the attention 
even of the natives, who are constantly in llie 
habit of gazing on them. The highest and most 
distant peaks were never to be discerned, except, 
for a very short time, before and after sun-rise and 
sun-set. In many instances, we could observe the 
well-defined outline of some very remote peak, on 
the sun's disk, as it rose; but the mountain ap- 
peared immediately to melt into air, and became 
invisible to us, from its extreme distance. We 
observed the same singular appearance at the rising 
of the moon, and in a far more beautiful manner ; 
for no other mountains whatever were to be seen 
at the moment, except the single peak interposed 
between us and that planet. 

Many rocky points, and small islands, are to be 
seen along this coast, which are perfectly white, 
and appear at a distance to be formed of chalk. 
These are covered with Huano, or the dung of 
sea-fowl, which forms a considerable branch of 
trade, on the coast of Peru. Many vessels are 
constantly employed in digging, and conveying it 
to the di£Ferent Puertos Intermedios. There it is 



444 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISKS. 

sold by the bushel, and fetches a high price ; for 
without it nothiug whatever could be cultivated on 
the sandy arid soil. The vessels collecting it lie 
close alongside of some rock, where it is found in 
plenty ; and have a shoot, made of planks, laid 
from the land to the hold of the vessel, through 
which they shovel it, and speedily take in a valu- 
able, though highly offensive cargo. The smell is 
indeed so disagreeable, that it is fiilly as unplea- 
sant to go on board a huanero as a full whaler. 
The depth of this manure, on the spots where it 
is found, is truly astonishing; being frequently 
from forty to fifty feet in thickness, and in such 
quantities, as to be apparently inexhaustible. 

The conspiracies against Pinto began once 
more to be serious; and insurrections were of 
frequent occurrence in Santiago, being principally 
headed by Col. Infante, Don N. Urriola, and 
other demagogues. These were men of desper- 
ate fortunes, but allied to good families in Chile, 
either by birth or marriage. The interest of 
their relatives was powerful enough with Govern- 
ment to save them from those consequences, which 
often fell severely on the subordinate agents in 
these conspiracies. The principals, meanwhile, 
merely retiring to their friends estancias for a few 
days, until justice had been satisfied by a few 
severe examples, appeared afterwards boldly in 
public, ready to seize on another opportunity of 
disturbing the peace of the country afresh. 

The two parties now contending for power in the 
state, were distinguished by the appellations of 
Pelucones and Liberales. The former party, whose 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 445 

name means literally ^Hhe big tuigs," was composed 
chiefly of Spaniards, or crioles who had formerly 
been staunch royalists, and were still strongly 
snspected of a latent regret for the government of 
Spain. They were chiefly wealthy men of familyj 
most of whom enjoyed important stations in church 
and state ; in which (according to the rival party,) 
they maintained themselves solely by the help of 
bribery. Strongly and blindly attached to all 
ancient usages, however unimportant, or even ill 
adapted to the existing state of things, they were 
obstinate in their opposition to any and every in- 
novation, however harmless in itself, or salutary, 
in the end at which it aimed. In religion, they 
were scrupulous observers of all ceremonies, and 
superstitious in the extreme ; holding it a matter 
of conscience to believe every thing without ex- 
ception, that the priests thought proper to tell 
them. 

The Liberdles di£Fered, as they themselves wished 
it to be understood, in every respect from the Pelu- 
c6ne8 ; piquing themselves on the extreme liber- 
ality of their opinions, as the name they had chosen 
to be distinguished by implies. The leaders 
of this party were certainly men of talent and 
general information, and many of them were 
possessed of good property, and were allied to 
respectable families ; but by far the greater part 
afPected to depreciate those advantages in the Pelu- 
c6nes, and even to insist that they were incompa- 
tible with the character of a true LiberAl. In every 
measure they ran into the opposite extreme to 
their opponents in politics; and, although many 



446 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

highly advantageous changes in the old forms of 
govemment, in conrts of justice, and in the state of 
society in general, were effected by their exertions, 
yet their ideas of liberty verged upon anarchy, and 
to avoid the imputation of being superstitious, most 
of them became professed free-thinkers. Many 
pretended to disbelieve religion in general ; for 
which reason their opponents refused them the 
name of Liberdles, and branded them with the ap- 
pellation oi LiherUnos, 

An irregular assemblage of the most violent 
])artizan8 belonging to this faction, headed by In- 
fante, who had found means to corrupt one of the 
regiments by a distribution of money, and a promise 
that they should receive all arrears of pay due to 
them, obtained possession of the Plaza, which they 
held for some hours. A detachment of soldiers, 
under the command of Col. Latapiat, was sent to 
expel the Congress, which was assembled at the 
time. There he behaved with great violence, even 
threatening to fire on them, if they would not in- 
stantly dissolve the session. The members, how- 
ever, evinced unexpected resolution, ordering him 
to retire instantly with liis men ; which order beinu: 
enforced by several of the Liberal party who were 
present, and highly disapproved of such violent 
proceedings, was obeyed without any farther demur. 
In the course of the day, the leaders of the faction 
disagreed among themselves, and withdrew their 
forces into the Maestranza near the Canada. From 
thence the soldiers fell off by degrees, having been 
disappointed in their expectations of being per- 
mitted to plunder the city. One of the ring-leaders, 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 41*7 

a major in the anny, consulted his own safety and 
interest together, by delivering into the hands of 
Government the principal of his associates, among 
whom was Infante : for this piece of service he 
received a considerable sum of money, and pro- 
motion. It was at first supposed by every body, 
that these insui^ents would be sentenced to be 
shot ; but it appeared that Government did not 
think it prudent to proceed to extremities, at a 
time when they felt themselves so insecure. Most 
of the officers, who were implicated, being married 
men, such interest was made for them, that they 
were set at liberty, after a short arrest on board 
the Aquiles in Valparaiso. This was so much a 
matter of form, that they were permitted, by the 
commanding officer, to go on shore every evening, 
on their parole of returning early in the morning. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE ROTOZOS, CHILEKO LAZZARCNIS.— CONGRESS ADJOURNS 

rO VALPARAISO. TUMULTUOUS DEBATES. CIVIL WAR 

IN SANTIAGO. THE MILITIA OF VALPARAISO. MUTI.W 

ON THE MARCH. INSURRECTION QUELLED. EXHUMA- 

TION AND REINTERMENT OF THE THREE GENERALS CAB- 
RERA. NEW CCNSTITUTION PROCLAIMED. PINTO R E- 

ELECTED PRESIDENT. RETIRES TO COQUIMBO. CHILOK, 

COXCEPCION, ANDCOQUIMBO REVOLT. CONCLUSION. 

The Congress saw clearly that, although it had 
as yet escaped in safety, its session in the capital 
could no longer be continued, without constant 
danger of interruption ; many of the unpopular 
members having been threatened by the Rotozos, a 



448 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

numerous set of men of the lowest class in Santiago, 
answering to the description of the Lazzaroni of 
Italy. 

The BotozoSf so called from their ragged con- 
dition, are stout, desperate vagabonds, with no 
ostensible means of support ; who, though rarely 
seen in times of tranquillity, when they lurk in the 
recesses of Guanguali and La Chimba, swarm like 
wolves in the streets, in hopes of plunder, when 
there is any prospect of a riot or a revolution. The 
appearance of their gaunt, wild looking figures, 
in the Plaza and other places of public resort, is 
a sure indication to the inhabitants of Santiago, of 
some approaching political explosion ; these men 
being long known as ready agents to assist in any 
outrage that may be in agitation. 

It was therefore determined by the Congress to 
leave the capital, and they chose Valparaiso as a 
secure place of meeting. From thence, in the 
event of the members being threatened by any 
serious danger, they had every facility of escaping, 
either on board the Aquiles, or some foreign man 
of- war, *of which there are always a few lying in 
the harbour. This port had the additional recom- 
mendation of having invariably preserved its tran- 
quillity, during the various scenes of confusion in 
Santiago. This may be accounted for, by the 
minds of the Portenos being exclusively employed 
in commerce, and there being no idlers to be found 
here, sufficient employment being always obtained 
by those willing to work ; and by the Alcaldes de 
Barrio being strict in sending to the calabozo, and 
the public works, all persons found in the streets, 



OAMPAIONS AND CRUISES* 449 

without some ostensible means of gaining a liveli- 
hood. The police is also mach more namerous, 
and better regulated, than in the capital ; in con- 
sequence of the greater number of' merchants, 
chiefly foreigners, resident here, who have valuable 
property to defend, and who, therefore, subscribe 
liberally to the maintenance of this safeguard. 
The merchants themselves, and their immediate 
dependents, form at all times, a strong corps ; and 
are in readiness to act, when called upon, for the 
support of order. 

The church of Santo Domingo was fitted up for 
the reception of Congress. The corridors and 
cells of the adjoining monastery had been some 
years before appropriated, as barracks, for the 
corps of artillery stationed in the port. This was a 
fine steady set of men, remarkable for their uniform 
good conduct ; as the corps had been long station- 
ary here, most of them were married men ; and 
their proximity to the church, where Congress was 
to assemble, was considered by the deputies as an 
additional security. The debates were very tumul- 
tuous and violent ; for they were engaged in dis- 
cussing the heads of a new constitution, the plan 
of which had been lately dr^wn up by a committee, 
and submitted to their consideration. The constant 
disputes, between those Pelucones and Liberdles 
who were members, ^ere conducted in a very 
unparliamentary mannei^ ; for they frequently de- 
scended to personal abuse, and perpetually inter- 
rupted the debates by their violent party quarrels. 

While the Congress continued its sessions in 
Valparaiso, a more serious insurrection than any of 



450 CAMPAIGNS AND GRUISIiS. 

the former took place in the capital. It was 
headed, as asual, by Infante and Urrlola, who were 
indefatigable in conspiracy, and had not been de- 
terred, by the bad success of their former attempts, 
from again endeavouring to overthrow the govern- 
ment. Nothing was easier than to corrupt the 
troops, especially those stationed in some parts of 
the country distant from Santis^o ; for the moment 
they were marched from the neighbourhood of the 
capital, government gave itself no farther trouble 
about their pay or clothing, until some disturbance 
took place, which brought the army to recollection. 
A strong body of infantry and cavalry, with their 
respective officers, was speedily collected by the 
above mentioned ring-leaders, and marched against 
Santiago. Pinto having sent out his cuirassier 
guard, commanded by Lieut. Col. Carson, a native 
of North America, to reconnoitre the insurgents, 
this officer passed over to them, with the greater 
part of his men. They then encamped in the Llano 
de Portales, from whence they sent a flag of truce 
to Pinto, with various demands, which were not 
complied with, and threats, to which no attention 
was paid. They were, however, unable to enter 
the city, on account of the corps of artillery, and 
the garrison, which still remained faithful to Pinto. 
Militia now began to assemble from different 
parts to the assistance of the capital ; and the prin- 
cipal inhabitants and merchants raised a very effi- 
cient corps of cavalry among themselves, for the 
defence of the city, which was destined to be plun- 
dered, in case the assailants had succeeded in taking 
it, Valparaiso contributed her quota, by sending 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 451 

all the artillery-men in the port to join the Presi- 
dent's army. Three companies of militia were 
also collected for the same purpose, consisting of 
upwards of a hundred in each ; but unluckily tlii^ 
reinforcement could be induced to march no fur- 
ther than the outskirts of the town, where their 
campaign ended. The men composing this corps 
were all of them artizans, who were taken from 
their work, and from their families, whom they 
supported by it, to march at a moment's warning 
to Santiago ; and that for the purpose of fighting 
against a cause, that was rather popular than other- 
wise, among men of their class ; — if for no other 
reason, because it was hostile to the existing 
government. They had not long been enrolled, 
nor had they ever received clothing or arms. The 
muskets distributed to them were hastily collected, 
on the spur of the moment, from different mer- 
chants' stores ; and were put into their hands in 
the worst possible order, without being cleaned, or 
even examined. The alcaldes having mustered tlie 
men of their respective barrios who belonged to 
the corps, marched them, much against their wil ! , 
to fort San Antonio, where sentries were pLiced 
at the gates, and they were not suffered to stir ont. 
Having been hastily divided into three compa- 
nies, they were given in charge to some officers on 
half-pay, who had volunteered their services to tlie 
governor; little suspecting, at the moment they 
.made the offer, what sort of soldiers they were to 
receive, and having no time allowed to examiiii^ 
whether the men understood their exercise, althougii 
on the point of being marched against regular 



452 CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES. 

troops. Every man, however, in a coantry subject 
to revolutions, understands something of a soldier's 
duty ; and these militia-men knew enough of it to 
have made themselves serviceable, if a few days 
had been given them merely to learn their places 
in the ranks, and to become acquainted with their 
officers' faces. No provisions whatever were dis- 
tributed among them, during a day and night pas- 
sed in the fort ; and only a dollar was given to each 
man, to furnish him for the march, which would at 
least take four days. This inconsiderate treatment, 
on the part of the local autiiorities, and the pros- 
pect of leaving their wives and families without 
support, during their absence, was by no means 
calculated to reconcile them to the campaign. 

The next morning they were marched, fitting 
and grumbling, through the town, making a most 
unsoldierlike appearance ; all wearing ponchos and 
guaraponsy with rusty arms of different descrip- 
tions. By the time they had reached the Almen- 
dr-klf the line of march was surrounded by the 
men's families, who were clamorous in complaining 
that they should be left destitute by their depar- 
ture ; upon which the militia-men halted, and abso- 
lutely refused to leave the port, until they had 
received some pay in advance. A dollar was 
given to each of them, and they were promised 
that a month's pay should be distributed on the 
road, after the first day's march. They then pro- 
ceeded, apparently well contented, until half way 
up the first hill, when they suddenly seized the 
powder, which was carried by mules between them 
and the artillery, who were in advance, and, 



CAMPA10N8 AND CRUISES. 453 

having hastily distributed cartridges, commenced 
firing, without aim or object. The officers, who 
attempted to check this disorderly conduct, were 
obliged to retire and leave them ; for they fired at 
several, all of whom they slightly wounded. During- 
this riot, they found the money destined for tlieir 
pay and that of the artillery. Having shared it 
among themselves, they returned peaceably to 
their homes, and delivered up their arms, without 
any inquiry being made into the affair. 

The forces assembled in Santiago, on the part 
of government, attacked the insurgents in the 
Llano de Portales, and defeated them after a sharp 
action. A few examples were made, as usual, of 
the subalterns, several of whom were shot. Infanto, 
with his colleague Uri61a, after a short retreat int(» 
the country, returned again to the capital, where 
they appeared publicly, as if nothing extraordinary 
had occurred 

Before the Congress dissolved the session, it was 
unanimously decreed, that the bones of the three 
Generals Carrara should be brought from Men- 
doza to Santiago, and buried in the Pant^on with 
the honours due to their rank, and distinguished 
services to their country. These three brothers 
belonged to one of the most respectable families in 
Chile* By means of their wealth, talents, and in- 
fluence, they were the principal instigators and sup- 
porters of the revolution, and commanded in the 
first patriot armies raised in the country. The 
royalist forces, under the Spanish President Osorio, 
haviug had the advantage in several engagements, 
in which the patriots lost both men, (which they 



1 



454 CAMPAION8 AND CRUISES. 

could ill Spare at that time,) and confidence in 
themselves, the Carreras repaired to the neighbour- 
ing republic of Buenos Ayres, to solicit the assist- 
ance of troops from that Government, which had 
been free for some years. Their request was 
granted, and a strong force was dispatched under 
General San Martin, which eventually assisted in 
banishing the Spaniards from the country, and 
securing the independence of Chile in the fields of 
Chacabuco and Maypii. 

O'Higgins, meanwhile, having succeeded to the 
command of the array, and being appointed Direc- 
tor of Chile in their absence, was apprehensive of 
being deprived of that high office by their return, 
and therefore procured their arrest at Mendoza ; 
which city, though on the opposite side of the 
Andes from Santiago, is nevertheless included in 
the republic of Chile. Having undergone a mock 
trial, by a military commission composed of officers 
in O'Higgins's interest, they were declared traitors 
to the republic, and shot. They were buried pri- 
vately, in an obscure comer of Mendoza ; but 
justice, however tardily, was at length done to their 
memory. Their remains, among which were the 
irons they wore when put to death, after having 
been conducted in a splendid procession, by torch 
light, to the church of La Compania, where a 
solemn funeral service was performed, were depo- 
sited in the Panteon. 

Tranquillity being restored for a while in Chile, 
the constitution^ which had been for some months 
under consideration, was finally agreed to in Con- 
gress, and approved of by the President; who 



GAMPAION9 AND CRUISES. 455 

appointed a day for the ceremony of swearing to 
observe and maintain it, in every town throaghout 
Chile. A copy of it having been carried in 
procession to the principal altar in every place, 
where it was deposited for a week, the oath was 
administered to the army, navy, and civilians, by 
the respective governors, or alcaldes, with due 
solemnity, and with all the pomp of which the 
South Americans are so fond. Triumphal arches, 
covered with branches of Escova, and ornamented 
with allegorical transparencies, were erected in ' 
every Plaza; and the ceremony was performed 
under salutes of artillery, ringing of bells, and 
shouts of the populace, to whom money was 
liberally given. 

Shortly after, the time having nearly expired 
which was allotted by law for the duration of the 
President's authority, Chile was again thrown into 
a state of confusion and excitement, by a procla- 
mation issued for the election of a new head of 
the republic. Although Pinto declared himself, 
in private, to be heartily tired of the situation he 
held, and in which he had been with difficulty 
supported, by incessant struggles against the ma- 
chinations of his political oppouei^its, and personal 
enemies, he determined to offer himself as a can- 
didate for re-election, to demonstrate in what esti- 
mation his talents for governing were held by the 
majority of the nation. He then meant to retire, 
and enjoy private life in the bosom of his family, 
at Coquimbo. Every intrigue was tried, and 
every effort made anew, by the contending parties, 
to secure the election of their favourite candidate. 



456 GAMPAIONS AND GR0ISB9* 

The Ultra- Liberties nominated Infante ; and the 
Peluc6nes voted for Noy6a, the Ministro de Haci- 
enda. The elections in Chile are conducted by 
ballot, and the boxes provided for that pnrpose in 
every barrio, are secured at night in the hall of 
the Cabildo in each town, where they are placed 
under the care of confidential persons, appointed 
by both parties, until the scrutiny takes place. 
The quarrels that occurred at the tables set apart 
for voting, on this occasion, became so frequent 
and violent, that it was found necessary to call in 
the aid of militia to preserve order ; notwith- 
standing which, many lives were lost in the con- 
flicts that took place. Pinto vras re-elected, by a 
great majority of votes ; and, contented with so 
decisive a victory over his opponents, he shortly 
after resigned the reins of government. He re- 
tired rather abruptly to Coquimbo, whither he had 
previously sent his wife and children, in a French 
man-of-war, and took with him. as is currently re- 
ported, about 400,000 dollars, in specie. 

The province of Concepcion, discontented already 
with the constitution which it had so recently sworn 
to love, honour, and obey, declared itself divorced 
for ever from Chile ; and Prieto, who commanded 
tlie army raised in that province, defeated, in two 
general engagements, the troops sent by the govern- 
ment of Chile to quell the insurrection. The provin- 
ces of Coquimbo and Chiloe followed the example of 
Concepcion ; while the Caudillo Pincheira, who 
had taken and plundered Mendoza, was expected 
daily (in December, 1 829) to cross the Cordillera 
by the pass of Aconcagua, and to introduce his 
banditti into the heart of the country. 



CAMPAIGNS AND CRUISES* 457 

The navy of Chfle, which is a species of force 
more particularly suited to a country, consisting 
chiefly of sea-coast and islands, and situated at the 
entrance of the Pacific, has been gradually dimi- 
nishing in numerical strength, as well as actual 
efficiency, since the time Lord Cochrane resigned 
the command. At the end of 1820, it consisted 
of one brig, the Aquiles ; while, to. command tliis 
force, there were two rival admirals, Blanco and 
Wooster. Very few foreigners are still in the 
service : but nearly all those who remain are mar- 
ried in the country, and are, of course, settled there. 
Some essential change must take place in the orga- 
nisation of the Crovemment, (to efi^ect which a 
'second Bolivar would be necessary,) before Chile, 
although the garden of South America, can be a 
pleasant, or even a safe residence* 

When a country is thus agitated by civil war, 
prudence appears to dictate to all foreigners the 
propriety of retiring from the struggle ; more es- 
pecially if they have entered the service of that 
cpontry, at a time when it was united to oppose a 
common enemy, and with an expressed or implied 
imderstanding, that they were to serve against him 
alone. In civil war, as in family quarrels, faults 
are usually to be found on both sides ; and the 
fftranger, in either case, who imprudently in- 
terposes, will assuredly find himself considered de 
ircp, when a reconciliation takes place. If he has 
been active and zealous in the cause he has adopted, 
lie will be hated by both parties as an incendiary ; 
and, if he has recommended moderation by precept 
or example, he will be despised and suspected, by 

X 



158 CAMPAIONS AND CRUISES. 

friends as well as foes, as a time-server and spy. 
No war of factions^ except in his own country, can 
or ought to interest a man sufficiently (setting mer- 
cenary motives aside,) to afford him a plausible ex- 
cuse, even to himself, for continuing his services u 
a partizan. 

I demanded and obtuned leave of absence, to 
visit Europe, in November, 1829 ; the only diffi- 
culty being, at that time, to ascertain who was the 
legitimate bonafide^ President of Chile ; for there 
were two, who boasted that proud title, encamped 
at the head of their respective armies at the Llano 
de Port41es, and the E^t^ro of Pudaguel ; while 
the third, who was a civilian by profession, and 
consequently little versed in military opera- 
tions, had fled from the approaching storm, and 
taken refuge on board the Aquiles, under the 
double protection of the National standard at the 
main, and Vice Admiral Wooster's flag at the fore 
«f the brig. 

After a very good passage of about four months, 
during which we passed close to Juan Fernandez, 
Cape Horn, and Pemambuco, besides calling at Rio 
•laneiro, I landed at Portsmouth in the spring of 
1830, after 13 years' absence. 



NOTES. 



i 



4 ;. 



m 



-it- 



NOTES. 



Note 1, p. 6. 

This paitj (^ pleasine consisted, besides CoL MQ)oiudd, 
of M^or Daviesi, Captains MQf ullin and Rottenbuiy, 
and Lieutenants Vowell and Bndthwaite. 

Note 2, p. 14. 

The Morgiana, a Buenos-Ajrean privateer, brought in 
a Spanish slave^hip while we were at Femandfioa, which 
was detained bj the Saranac. The insurgent prize-mas- 
ter, nevertheless, made the shives jump overboard in the 
night, and swim to the shore, which was not £ax €fS. They 
were concealed in sheds behind Gen. Aarrej's house^ until 
disposed o^ and smuggled <^in small lots, hj purchasers 
firom St. Mary's. 

Note 3, p. 26. 

A ehurumbela is a pipe much used by the natives of 
South America. The bowl is made of a hard black cane, 
cut off dose below, and two inches above one of the joints ; 
and usually carved with that delicacy of design, and neat- 
ness of workmanship, for which most Indians, who set no 
value on their time, are remarkable. The tube, which is 
also carved, is about eight inches long, cut firom a small 
branch of a thorny shrub, the wood of whidi is hard, and 
the pith soft. These pipes are also called, in different 
parts of the continent, coeAm&o, oon^oloy and wntlo, besides 
the common term jaipa- 



462 NOTES. 

Note 4, p. 31. 

Bolfvar had ample cause for resenting the inflammatory 
harangues of the friars, from his previous experience of 
their effects on the people. After the fatal earthquake of 
Caracas in 1812, which huppened on Thursday in Passion 
week, (at the very time when all the troops that were off 
guard had assembled in the churches, where the greater 
part perished,) the friars took the opportunity to preach 
down the patriots, by representing the calamity as a mani- 
fest judgment of heaven against rebellion. Bolivar was 
long a wanderer in the West India islands in consequence. 

• 

Note 5, p. 32. 

Every town and village in South America contains a 
Plaza, or principal square. In it is the church, govern- 
ment-house, and ccUabozoy or jail. Troops are paraded, 
public meetings held, and criminals executed there. It is 
the rendezvous for politicians and loungers, and usually 
the theatre of revolutions. 

Note 6, p. 33. 

Tazajo, called on the West coast charquiy is beef dried 
in the sun. The iiesh of the bullock is cut into long nar- 
row slices, not more than half an inch thick, which are 
hung up in the open air, and frequently turned. They 
soon become perfectly hard, retain no unpleasant smell, 
and will keep good for a considerable time. In some parts 
of the country, where the air is damp, as in the neigh- 
bourhood of lagoons, and in the Llanos of Venezuela, 
which are intersected by numerous rivers and creeks, the 
strips of beef are sprinkled with a little salt, previous to 
being hung up to dry. 

Note 7> p* 34. 

The officer alluded to here was Capt. Edgar ; he died 
shortly after of the yellow fever at Angostura, and was 
buried with military honours in the fort on the hill. 



[•'' 



NOTES. 463 

Note 8, p. 35. 

Bolfvar, shortly after the death of Piar, issued a procla- 
mation forbidding any general, except the Chief of the 
Republic, to maintain a body-guard. Paez, nevertheless, 
long kept his &vorite Guardia de Bonor, nearly 600 strong, 
unnoticed by BoKvar, who always reposed the greatest 
confidence in him. One of the Llan^ro songs, much sung 
in Achaguas in the year 1818, alludes with pride to their 
Greneral's exclusive privilege. 

^^De los Generales quid es el mejor $ 

" Mi General Patz, con su Guardia de honor /" 

Note 9, p. 36. 

The connection between compadres, or those who have 
been sponsors to the same in&nt, as well as that between 
the sponsors and the parents of the child, is considered a 
sacred bond of union by the South Americans. It is even 
believed, that compadresco is so close a relation as to render 
marriage illegal, or at least, highly improper, between a 
compadre and comadre. Instances are common of the most 
devoted attachment of compadres to their mutual safety 
and interest ; while treachery, or even unkindness between 
them, is extremely rare, and looked upon as unnaturaL 
There is also a compadresco de hoca, or merely nominal 
connexion of this kind ; as when any two friends agree to 
call each other compadre* Even this is invariably found 
to bind the parties to a reciprocal exchange of good offices. 
A similar custom prevails, in some of the Polynesian 
groups, of choosing tayos. 

Note 10, p. 40. 

The fresh water turtle is so numerous in the Orinoco, 
that the Indians inhabiting the banks above Angostura 
maintain themselves by collecting the eggs, in the season, 
for the purpose of extracting oil from them. After boil- 
ing them hard, they squeeze them in woollen cloths under 
a press. The oil which exudes is of a clear amber colour, 
and has not the least rank flavour. It is a considerable 



4f64 NOTES. 

branch of traffic among the Indians, who sell many gallons 
of the oil yearly at Angostura and Guayana la Vieja. 

Note 11, p. 46. 

The natives of South America are in the habit of using 

this ejaculation, meaning literally, ^< Forward, in the nam 

of God /" on commencing anything of importance, and of 

t doubt^l event. It is the usual signal of preparation on 

I board a Spanish vessel, on putting the helm down to go 

\ about ; and is then equivalent to the English << helmU a 

lee r On any accident happening, they exclaim, << Sea par 

Dios /" — " May it be received by God /" — ^i. e. in atonement 

for sins. This is also constantly repeated by criminals 

while under punishment. 

Note 12, p. 47. 

Bovez was killed in action at £1 Juncal by a lad, one of 
Zardza*s lancers, who had been a slave in a family that was 
massacred by that monster under circumstances of pecu- 
liar atrocity. The soldier*s reward for this good deed was 
highly characteristic of the early days of the revolution ; 
being a grant from the Government of double rations for 
life. He was in Mondgas's <:avalry at Pao, in the year 
1819, at which time he took no small pride in exercising 
his privilege, and would never leave the providuria without 
his "Benjamin's portion" of beef ; — all that was then served { 
out to the troops. 

Note 13, p. 76, 

The term Godo or Goth, was applied at the commence- 
ment of the revolution exclusively to the Spaniards, who 
were entitled to it as well by descent, as by the devasta- 
tions they committed in South America. It was after- 
wards given indiscriminately to all Royalists; who, in 
turn, called the Patriots Chocibtos, literally croppies ; cabalh 
chocuto signifying a cropped horse. 

Note 14, p. 67. 

It was customary at this period for each chief to display 
a distinguishing swallow-tail banner at his lance ; his fol- 



NOTES. 465 

lowers carried similar bannerols of a smaller size. That 
which BoUvar had, when we first met him, was tJie banner 
of Paez's guard. CoL RangePs lancers carried white ones, 
with a red lance point in the centre. 

Note 15, p. 79. 

The name for a plantation in the hillj country is haci- 
enda ; in the plains, conuccOf or, if containing a sugar mill, 
trapichi. Cattle fiirms in Venezuela are called ?idtos. In 
Chile and Peru, these last are called estancias, and planta- 
tions chacras. 

Note 16, p. 87. 

The word barlovento signifies windward^ and this name 
was given to the corps, in consequence of having been 
formed in the windward provinces of Cumank and 
Barcelona. 

Note 17, p. 90. 

Ar^pa is the Indian term for bread in general; it is used by 
the crioles exclusively for maiz cakes. The gp*ain of which 
these are made, after being pounded in a large wooden mor- 
tar by two women, who strike it alternately with majaderos, 
or heavy pestles, to loosen the husks, is boiled, and suffered 
to stand all night in the same water. It is then bruised 
by hand, with a round stone, on a fiat slab of granite, laid 
slanting to let the water run ofi*; and is made into small 
cakes, which are baked on an earthen plate, without adding 
leavenor salt. This is considered a very nourishing kind of 
bread, but is, of course^ exceedingly insipid. 

Note 18, p. 94. 

I The Morros of San Juan are two very large detached 
rocks, of a dark grey lime-stone inclining to black, resemb- 
ling the ruined towers of some gigantic castle. They 
were to be seen for several nights during Ukr retreat, and 
proved extremely usefiil as land-marks or beacons, to warn 
us from approaching the enemy*s camp, which was pitched 
immediately beneath them. 



466 ' NOTES. 

Note 19, p. 96. 

Lopez had not long before surprized BoHvar's camp in 
Rincon de los Toros, near the city of San Carlos. The 
Patriot army was bivouacked by night in the centre of a 
small plain, surrounded by trees ; under which Bolivar, 
his chaplain, and Col. Arguindegui, were sleeping. Boli- 
var escaped, but his two companions were lanced where 
they lay. ArguindeguPs head was sent to Caracas, where 
it was exposed to public view over the city gate ; as, from 
his resemblance to BoUvar, Morillo believed it to be that 
of the Patriot Chief. 

Note 20, p. 107. 

This officer was an Irish surgeon, by name Haly, be- 
longing to Zedeno*s staff. He was shortly after wounded 
and taken prisoner by the Spaniards at Los Cerrftos, hav- 
ing imprudently left the rear-guard, where he was sta- 
tioned, to have a nearer view of the action. The Spaniards 
carried him to Calabozo, where they shot him, in the same 
Plaza that we had visited together a few days before, and 
on the very banquUlo where we had seated ourselves in 
jest. 

Note 21, p. 177- 

As, for example, — 

" Lajustida en las Audiencias se comprdva y se vendia ; 
" Y el oro de los pleytantes en los Cortes prevalia," 

Which may be rendered, — 

*^ The Godos' might has banished right and justice from 
the land ; 

" Their laws for gold were bought and sold, at the Audi- 
ence's command." 

Note 22, p. 193. 

I found, on one occasion, in the library of the Cura de 
Zipaquir^ a Spanish edition of "Gulliver's Travels." 
An Aviso al Lector \& prefixed, in which the Catholic reader 
is reminded, that the work was written by a heretic Dean, 
which, the editor gravely observes, accounts for the many 



I 



NOTES. 467 

glaring and wilfiil deviations from truth to be found in 
these travels. He also apologises for having substituted 
another name for that given by Swift to the flying island ; 
that in the original English being, as he justly observes, 
highly indelicate, and unfit for Spanish readers. Qu, Did 
Swift know the meaning of Lapiita ? 

f Note 23, p. 226. 

The river Juanambu, and its obstinate defenders the 
Pastuzos, were the theme of many poetical effusions, 
y both by the Royalists and Patriots. The following is a 
\ specimen of the revolutionary songs of that period, and 
^.; was a fevorite among Bolivkr's troops. 

" Aquerrfdos sold^dos ! que U^nan 

" De rubor y intrepid^z, 
» . " Al tendr a la vista y cerc^no 

^j "El enemigo cruel, — 

*^ " El se burlb de vosdtros, 

'^ Con una baxa irrisibn, 
' " Porque vid las corrientes del rio 

" Influyendo en su favor. 

" Quando ya nos da paso ese rio, 

" De terror se ha de Uenkr 
I " El in^me indecente Pastuzo, 

" Opuesto a la libertkd : 
" Pero ya Uegara el dia 

" Que zozobre su quietud, 
" Quando pierda caudal tus corrientes, 

" O maldito Juanambu !" 

(imitated.) 

" Ye warriors ! whose cheeks, never blanched by dismay, 
" Are crimsoned with shame at the enemy^s sight, 

'^ Remember their taunts, and advance to the fVay, 
" For they trust to the river to shelter their flight. 



ii. 



u 



Beware then, Pastuzos ! the hour is at ha^d, 

" When the slaves that dare muster on tyranny's side 

Shall quail at the shout of the patriot band, 

" And fly from the battle by Juanambu*s tide.*' 



468 NOTES. 

Note 24, p. 230. 

The new Government of Guayaquil chose for their re- 
volutionary colours a white flag^ having in the centre, a 
black star. It would be difficult to find in heraldry a pre- 
cedent for this anomaly ; and it may be considered as typi- 
cal of the iiUstarred Government which first hoisted it. 

Note 25, p. 231. 

Captains Vowell and Ihmcan ; and Lieutenants M*Ma- 
nus and Sutherland. There were, besides, a few English 
Serjeants and corporals. 

Note 26, p. 241. 

A ptdperioy called also in Peru and Chile, bodegon^ is a 
shop for the sale of groceries and liquors. It must be 
distinguished from the Mexican ptUquerioy which is used 
exclusively to designate houses that seU pulque, a fer- 
mented beverage made from a species of aloe. 

Note 27, p. 242. 

Xfpixtfpa (pronounced Hippihappa) is a populous Indian 
town in the interior of Choco, situated between Monte 
Christi and Quito. It is celebrated for a manufacture of 
fine grass hats, and cigar cases, which are exported largely 
to the coast of Mexico, Peru, and Chfle. Many Indian^,, 
of this and the neighbouring towns, still follow the an- 
cient custom of burying their dead in the floor of the hut 
they inhabited while living. A rope is fiistened to the 
body, and one end is left above ground when the grave Ls 
filled up. The relations cease to dwell in the hut for a 
time ; but return daily with an offering of fiiiit and are'pas 
to the deceased, as long as the rope remains immoveable. 
When it comes away on being pulled, being, of course, de- 
cayed before long, they omit this tribute of affection, and 
return to inhabit the hut, believing that their friend is 
then departed to the land of shadows. 

Note 28, p. 254. 

I^ord Cochrane was authorised by the Government of 
Chfle to grant commissions, and promote officers, while ab- 



NOTES. 469 

sent on any expeditkm. All comnuadons thus granted 
were confirmed by the Director 0^iggiii% when the 
squadron returned to Valparidso. 

Note 29, p. 264. 

This officer was Lieut G. Noyes, of the Albion regi- 
ment After passing safely, in company with the author, 
through the Campaigns in Colombia, and most of the 
Cruises in the Pacific, he died in the year 1825, on board 
the Laut^o, in Valparaiso bay, and was buried by his 
countrymen in fort San Antonio. 

Note 30, p. 260. * 

The word candca literally means man in the language of 
the Sandwich islanders. It is used by navigators to de- 
signate a native of those islands. 

Note 31, p. 261. 

The Mexican fiag consiitt of three perpendicular stripes ; 
red next the mast, white, and green. In the ceoCre com- 
partment is a vulture, perched on a priddy-pear bush, 
holding a serpent in her talons. This, according to tradi- 
tion, was the first object that caught the attention of Cor- 
tez, at his landing on the coast of Mexico. 

Note 32, p. 280. 

Notwithstanding the name of Almendrdly which this 
suburb bears, not a single almond tree grows within 
leagues of it 

Note 33, p. 341. 

The Chil^nos cook charqui, both fresh and stale, in 
several different ways, in all c^ which it is very palatable. 
The charquican is a standing dish throughout tiie country, 
and is fiir preferable to the celebrated Spanish olku The 
charqui, being cut into small pieces, is pounded between 
two stones, and picked as fine as oakum. It is then put 
into a stew-pan, with butter, potatoes, red pepper, and in 

Y 



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470 NOTB-i. 

summer, green jihui ox frijuien, In winter, pieces of patn^ 
kin. Thesa4ngredienU are hU ulaahed tugetbcr, enough 
of water bung added to soften the vegetables. The valA- 
vHhb is made of charmii pounded u before, and rinsed in 
scalding water. Il 15 eateij w^tli vinef^r, pepper, vA 
Bficed onlonB' 

NVTR 34, p. 3,-iS. 
8u jealoiu are the Araiu-ana« nf strangem tra.veUii% 
through their country> that ttie late Bishop of Concepdon, 
M: B: P: Don N. Clenfuegos. was once in tmminrait 
danger ofbelng murdered, vMbaHiasfa'aiiiate; at attend- 
ants, by those safages. He had obtained permiaiion to 
pww through, on his wav tr> Valdivia, where he ww U 
hotda viBitation, tind meant to have returned hj sea with 
the trade-wind ; but, finding no voasel ready to sail, sup-' 
posed that his previous passport would protect him on hia 
way back. He was disagreeably undeceired, however, hv 
bring seiEei^by the Indians, and tried for his life in their 
rude military court, where all the chiefs havea vote. Por- 
tiinBtelylbr him, the luisemhly u-ss divided jn opinion ; and 
his friends indsted on the nwfie being decided, as is usual 
among them, by an appeal to tlie Arsuran tournameut ; — 
1' the game of c^Heco, (called in Ireland, Aariin^ ; in England, 
I luKkey^bandy). The Bishop was seated, as the most inter- 
eated party, in a convenient place tor /rnjoying the sport; 
and had the satisfaction of seeing his party win the goal 
\ twice cput of the three presiTibed games. 

Note 35, p. Z1i>. 
The flower ehmH is fi-eiiuently alluded to in the South- 
American eongs, as a gaye d'amoiiT 1 as, for instance, in 
that cwnmenchng " El clavel fue la t-nuaa de yo queret te." 

Note Wi, p. 3113. 
The name of the unfortunate Emperor of Mexito, is 
always spelled AfcJe^rftina by the South Americans. The 
Mexicans themselves, who must certainly be allowed to be 
the best authority oji this head, pronounce the nanie 
"JWoA-ieiwrinia." 



VOTEg. 471 

Morm STy p. 369. 



[ It is exceedinglj nam ftr these oiphansy is they are 

st vied, to remain, wh^i gtown up, in the fiunilj that has 
educated them. A coiDmon jdinse in Chfle is ** tan in- 

fjrrato como un huacho,** ^ as ungnitefiil as an orphanu^ . 

. • 

Note 38, f^siir?. , 

As most of the natives of Smith America have natural 
talents for music, it is an easy matter to make up a regi- 
mental band, provided instruments can be procured. It 
I was usual fin* a colonel to select from tfat i^^nks some of 
[ the best-looking young crioles fiur musicians, without anv 
previous enquiiy being made whether they had any ear, 
or taste ibr music ; that being always taken for granted. 

Note 39, p. 399. 

It is observable, that the two first chie& of the republic 
of Chile were deposed for diametrically opposite defects of 
character. (yHiggins was banished in consequ^ice of his 
obstinacy, in supportqig his ministers against thQ unani- 
mous voice of the nation,* Freyre lost his seat through 
; indecision, and readiness to comply with every advice, that 
was given him by inexperienced or interested counsellors. 

Note 40, p. 435. 

The Indians of the Archipebigo actually believed, so 
late as 1827 — 8, that the head of El Rey was formed of 
beaten gold. They were also firmly persuaded, on the 
most undoubted authority, (that of their friars), that 
every insurgent, more especially if he were an Englishman 
and a heretic, had an extra eye in his forehead. The 
alcalde of San Carlos, Don Domingo Loaiza, assured me 
that this prejudice was fiur from being eradicated by the 
reduction of Chiloe. 



END OF VOL. I. 



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Mastbr of Arts, Colui 
Rose Hill, in the Township of Rbo 

»;■"»> cAsi 

JUDGE ADVOCAia* 

COLO SL K. T. S. I^ IBM ; 

BBIGAlM^U GENBRAi^for •*ImportaHt SerwUm* 

eieethraj 
ADJUTANT 
BBKTfET MAJOKGKNBBA! 
(fint and onljr General olBaer reoeiviog raeh Mj 

brevetted (Mmjor 
bj " Special Act," nr ' Concurrent i 
(In the State MiUtftrj B«Mcr, -LegiaUuive M 

fire 



, LAWS OF KRW YORK. 

. OemtMrrent JtooiMf ion rtqmutimg the Gottrmor im 
I {de Pettier] tke bretet nmko/ Major* (( ' 



dftlM Senate oonenr>. Tfaat it beins i 
of • disiiagaidvd eitlaen of tbU State, rendered 
lafc dM BebeUfoB, tke Oevenior be and he is I 
J WATTS DR PUTSTBB [de Pvyster] the < 

rieim, whUh atmA of honor ihall 



t Tte fbregoiag Beacdattoi waa duly paaed. 

i 

I 

j The roffegoing Bearintioa was duly paiwed. 
• *3»iin)riftiuU. 

I 

I MILrTART AG 

I HOXGRABT MEXBBB. SECON'D CLASS, of 
I FIRST HOXUKABT URMBBI 

i HOXOBABY MBMBKB of the THIBU CUKPS 
I OF ABBAXGBMRNTS f«r the Grand 

' H050BAEY MEMBER of the CLARl^NDO* 
: XRVr BBUXSWTCK (Cani 

f ASSOCIATE MEMBER of the MILITAKT 

} MBMBEO-lOth Jane. Idil niBKCTUR-or tb* 
andTICE-PRKSIDKXT ot the SA 
MKMBKR of the NETU 
IMdataekappiJ der Stde 
BSCIPIEirr. 1S5C or Three Silrtr MedaU from H. 
Biogn^ihy of Le09>ard TokstkwsOVW 
ls51, from WASHljrGTOX HL'irr 
the Militarr Svitem of Kt 
Pai<l Fire' Departing 
of a Gdd Medal, onlj timilar distinction ever oi 
thoritj of the State of New Yurk, bj a S; 
HmrT. Gore r nor an<l Coiumauder 
to he worn in attest of "* 
ofa Gdd Medal, in 1S52, from th« FIKLD and 
Troops, - In te<timonT uf their 
the (is:ablL»h 
In 1S70, of a Magnificent Badge. Medal, and C/< 
Potomac) Union, held at 
A Setolution was adopted to i-re^ai a GUd 

Xew York, aa a Us-iimouiid of t',:e appreci 
thetniehinorrof it«achierem«nti,and in 
miirvpres«;ntaUon : 
and of seTeral other Badges, Medals ire, for ^ _. 
H03* 



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