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CANDY MAKING
REVOLUTIONIZED
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page XI
CANDY-MAKING
REVOLUTIONIZED
CONFECTIONERY FROM
VEGETABLES
BY
MARY ELIZABETH HALL
ILLUSTRATED
STURGIS & WALTON
COMPANY
1914
All rights reserved
COPYRIGHT,
PERRY MASON COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
STURGIS & WALTON COMPANY
Set op and Electrotyped. Published, December, 1911
Reprinted March, 1914
TO
ONE ELIZABETH,
AND ALL ELIZABETHS WHO LOVE PURE
CANDY AND ITS MAKING
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
INTRODUCTION i
PREFACE vi
SECTION I
I FOR THE NOVICE 3
II FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE ... 8
III THERMOMETER 19
IV USE OF STEAM 24
V CRYSTALLIZATION .27
VI CHOCOLATE COATING ...... 33
VII SUGAR 41
SECTION II
VIII DECORATIVE CANDIES
I From Potato Paste .... 52
Green Leaves 56
II Violets
Pop-corn Violets .... 57
Cocoanut Violets .... 58
Violet Boutonniere .... 59
III From Potato Fondant
Uncooked Fondant . . . . 6l
Cooked Potato Fondant . . 62
Modeled Candy 62
Coloring 64
White Daisy 66
Yellow Daisy 69
Calla Lily 69
Red Apples 70
CONTENTS
HAPTE:
R
PAGE
Single Roses ....
. . 72
Rose Buds ....
. . 74
New Potato ....
75
Pea-Pod
. . 76
Snow Ball ....
. . 76
Grapes
79
Other Possibilities . .
. . 79
IX
POTATO CARAMEL
Potato Caramel No. I .
. . 81
Potato Caramel No. 2 .
. . 82
Potato Caramel No. 3 .
. . 82
Opera Caramel
. . 83
X
POTATO MISCELLANEOUS
Mocha Walnuts . . .
. . 84
Pecan Creams . . .
. . 85
Raisin Creams . . .
. . 85
Peppermint Chocolates
. . 86
Celtic Almonds . , .
. . 86
Chocolate Bars . . .
. . 87
Vegetable Cream . .
. . 88
XI
SWEET POTATO
Sweet Potato Patties .
. . 90
Sweet Potato Knots
. . 91
Sweet Potato Pastilles
93
XII
PARSNIP
Candied Parsnips .
93
Parsnip Boutonniere
95
XIII
CARROT
Carrot Rings ....
. . 97
Crystallized Carrot . .
. . 98
Carrot Roll ....
. 98
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
"Gingers" 99
Garden "Ginger" .... 99
Variations 101
XIV BEAN
Candied Green Beans . . . 102
Bean Taffy 103
Nut Bean Taffy . . . . . 104
XV BEET
Frosted Beet Slice . . . .105
Beet Puffs 106
Beet Cubes with Variations . 107
Crystallized Beets . . . . 108
Spiced Beets 109
Spiced Beet Bon-bons ... 109
XVI TOMATO
Tomato Marshmallow . . .no
Chocolate Marshmallow . .112
Vegetable Nougatine . . .112
Chocolate Nougatine . . .114
Nut Bur 114
XVII CORNLET
Nut Cornlettes 118
XVIII ONION COLD TABLETS 120
XIX ORIENTAL PASTE 123
Seaweed 124
XX STUFFED FRUITS
Dates for Candy ...... 128
Sparkling Dates 128
Chocolate Covered Dates . . 129
Date Brilliants 129
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
XXI
Rhubarb Marmalade . .
Sugared Dates ....
Stuffed Dates ....
Stuffed Prunes ....
ANGELIQUE
PACK
. 129
. 130
. 130
. 130
. 132
YYTT
Orange Rings ....
Angelique as a Plant . .
Preserved Green Angelique
Dried Angelique . . . .
. 133
. 133
. 135
135
. 136
AA11
YYTTT
FOR THE TEACHER . . .
. 142
ILLUSTRATIONS
VEGETABLE CANDIES Frontispiece
OPPOSITE PAGE
FASCINATING TO THE CHILD 72
BOXED VEGETABLE CANDIES 98
DECORATIVE AND EDIBLE 118
ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA 132
FOR THE CATERER 138
INTRODUCTION
When Mary Elizabeth Hall first brought
her discovery to my attention, I thought
that it was indeed one that would revolu-
tionize candy-making, both that of the
amateur at home and of the manufacturer.
And, in the months that have followed, to
this belief has been added the conviction
that this revolution is one very much worth
while. Why so simple and obvious a dis-
covery was not made long ago is a mystery
to me; perhaps its very simplicity and ob-
viousness is proof of its importance.
Of cookery, candy-making is a branch
which is entitled to more dignity than it
ordinarily receives. Negatively and posi-
tively, the importance of sweets to the child
can hardly be over-estimated. If he con-
sumes a quantity of impure confectionery,
his digestion will be ruined for life; how
much of the confectionery bought is rankly
impure it is well for the mother's peace
of mind that she does not know! On
the other hand, if the child is not given
ii INTRODUCTION
sweets, he is deprived of a food element
of the greatest value to his development.
And for the adult, the value of pure candy
is too obvious to warrant comment.
Vegetable candy, to my mind, is ideal
confectionery. Of its purity, there can be
no doubt. Moreover, it furnishes the valu-
able element of sugar so combined with
nutritious vegetable bases that, because of
the bulk, there is no temptation to overeat.
This quality of the new confection would
seem insurance against the evil effects of
gluttony! Before an undue amount of
sugar is consumed, the very mass of the
vegetable base has satisfied the appetite.
Many sorts of vegetable candy have un-
usual keeping qualities ; indeed, some kinds
will retain their flavor and moisture for as
long as a year. It is significant to note
that almost all non-vegetable confections
that can be successfully stored for any
length of time contain artificial preserva-
tives; vegetable candy, however, keeps, not
because of the addition of alcohol or even
benzoate of soda, but because of the ex-
cellence of the processes themselves.
Notwithstanding its advantages, vegeta-
INTRODUCTION iii
ble candy is no harder to make than is any
other good candy. For success in any sort
of cookery, much hard work is necessary;
slipshod methods and intuition can not
produce food that is up to standard. Of
even greater force is this rule when ap-
plied to the most delicate brand of cookery
the making of confectionery. Miss Hall
has supplemented her major discovery by
several other valuable discoveries or
" adaptations/' as' she modestly styles them.
Her use of crystallization, for instance, en-
ables the amateur confectioner to secure
results which were previously out of her
reach.
Aside from its virtues from the hygienic,
dietetic and practical points of view, the
new confectionery has much to commend it.
By utilizing the common and cheap vegeta-
bles of the home garden, it gives to the
girls and women on the farm and in the
village an opportunity that previously was
not theirs. This discovery means that
they can now make the finer sorts of candy,
the fashioning of which was formerly out of
the question to women who did not have
at their command the resources of the spe-
iv INTRODUCTION
cialty stores of the large city and plenty
of money to spend in them. This enlarge-
ment of the culinary horizon of these
countless women is not without broad sig-
nificance; the removal of their limitations
petty and otherwise, if you will is nec-
essary before we shall cease to tremble be-
cause they who belong on the farm and in
the village refuse to stay there. Once
banish the discontent of the farm woman,
and there is no rural problem of conse-
quence. And vegetable candy-making is
not without sociological importance because
it is a step though, perhaps, a very short
one, comparatively! in that direction.
More definite, however, is another field
for speculation in connection with vegetable
candy. It offers to the housewife, house-
daughter, and to the teacher a new model-
ing medium. That from a cheap and easily
made base attractive objects may be made
and then eaten surely is a recommen-
dation of no slight moment. Miss Hall's
discovery has placed within easy reach of
persons of moderate means and skill a me-
dium through which really beautiful ob-
jects can be made in candy. For the first
INTRODUCTION v
time, the amateur candy-maker can prove
for herself that candy-making is not only
an art, but that it is one of the fine arts.
WARREN DUNHAM FOSTER.
PREFACE
The years of work in candy-making that
have made possible this book, I now look
back upon with a certain feeling of satis-
faction. The satisfaction comes from the
knowledge that because of the discovery
that is here recorded, the candy of the
future will be purer, more wholesome, more
nourishing than that of the past has been.
Even if the processes that are here set forth
fail of the widest adoption, I have still the
satisfaction of knowing that just so far as
they are adopted will there be greater
healthfulness of confectionery.
Another reason for the satisfaction that
I feel is my knowledge that my discovery
has opened to the home candy-maker a
whole new world. Previously many of the
better sorts of confectionery particularly
of the decorative kinds were out of her
range, either because of the cost of the
necessary ingredients or the difficulty of
their purchase or handling; particularly un-
der a heavy disadvantage has been the vil-
vi
PREFACE vii
lage or country cook who has not had the
service rendered by the specialty stores of
the great cities.^ Now, however, with the
ever present potato substituted for marzi-
pan hard to obtain at more a pound than
potatoes cost a peck! it is the girl or
woman with her own garden who has the
advantage. Moreover, decorative candies
that formerly required more skill than
most amateur confectioners possess can now
be made by anyone who can model clay or
use a cooky cutter. Mothers who formerly
were all too often required to gratify their
children's longing for candies that told a
story candies modeled or otherwise deco-
rative by giving them boughten confec-
tionery that contained plaster of Paris,
aniline dyes and other ingredients equally
harmful, can now in their own kitchen from
nourishing and harmless vegetables fashion
sweets that are just as beguiling to childish
eyes.
Nor is this all. Children invariably have
a craving for sweets that if allowed to run
its course is almost sure to lead to indiges-
tion and worse. On the other hand, if this
craving is not satisfied, the children will be
viii PREFACE
deprived of a food of the utmost value a
food element, indeed, that it is indispensa-
ble. Vegetable candy offers an ideal solu-
tion of this difficulty. Sugar it of course
contains, but the vegetable base supplies
no small part of the bulk; consequently
children may eat their fill of it and satisfy
their natural longing for candy without
having gorged themselves with sugar.
Moreover, the vegetable base has virtues
that are positive as well as negative; it it-
self supplies valuable food elements and
equally valuable vegetable salts.
Many colors and flavors are made avail-
able by this discovery. The use of beets,
for instance, has added to the candy-mak-
er's palette a very attractive new shade.
Each vegetable contributes at least one
new flavor. Novel as are candies made
from vegetables, they must not be thought
faddish. Caramels, marshmellows and bon-
bons and all the rest are here; tastes that
have already won favor are here, and many
new ones as well.
In places, perhaps, the directions that
follow may seem over detailed. Invariably,
however, I have tried to give information
PREFACE ix
about all the points that would come to
the mind of the amateur confectioner. I
have tried to tell the why as well as the
what. Moreover, the processes at times
may seem, perhaps, a bit over long. It
should be noted, however, that vegetable
candy-making is no more complicated, if as
much so, as is the making of any other con-
fectionery. Good candy invariably means
effort, and intelligent painstaking effort at
that.
It has been with the home candy-maker
in mind that I have written this book. Un-
doubtedly, however, the discovery will ap-
peal to the professional. I am glad, for
the more vegetable candy is made, the less
unhealthful confectionery there will be con-
sumed. For the same reason, I hope, too,
that women and girls seeking to make
profitable their idle hours at home, may em-
bark in a small way in the manufacture and
sale of vegetable candy.
My thanks are due to The Youth's Com-
panion for its kind permission to reprint
material that first appeared on its Girls'
Page a department that, together with
Family Page and Boys' Page, has done
x PREFACE
much for better living throughout the na-
tion.
No doubt I have been garrulous concern-
ing my own discovery, but I trust that the
privilege of garrulity will be granted to the
woman who has been a pioneer and who,
after suffering the hardships that are always
the lot of the pioneer, has, as she believes,
opened up a whole new world in candy-
making and a very good world at that!
M. E. H.
BOSTON, MASS.,
June 12, 1912.
KEY TO FRONTISPIECE
1 Green Leaf
2 Violet
3 Wild-Rose With Angelique Leaf
4 Red Star From Potato Paste
5 Jellies made from green peas
6 Carrot Ring
7 Celtic Almond
8 Mocha Walnut
9 Pastille Of Sweet Potato
10 Frosted Beet Slice
11 Carrot Ring
12 Beet Leaves
13 Daisy attached to macaroon with a crystal
14 Pecan Cream
15 Angelique Ring
16 Raisin Cream
17 Heart From Potato Paste
18 Sweet Potato Knot
19 Triple Filled Orange Rings
20 Beet Puff
21 Nut Bur
22 Pea-Pod
23 Cocoanut Beet Square
24 Red Apple
25 Yellow Rose on small round cake
26 Snow Ball
XI
CANDY MAKING
REVOLUTIONIZED
SECTION ONE
HELP FOR THE NOVICE
Almost all of the difficulties of the novice
in the art of candy-making come from lack
of practice. Although it is a difficult
branch of cookery, experience in its in-
tricacies will overcome many of the handi-
caps under which the beginner struggles.
It should be carefully noted that these
handicaps apply fully as much to the old-
fashioned sort of candy-making as to the
new. The fundamental processes are often
the same. If the beginner in candy-making
knows and will follow a few simple rules,
the measure of success that greets her ef-
forts will be largely increased.
Be accurate. If the rule calls for one-
quarter teaspoonful of a flavoring extract,
measure that amount by a measuring-spoon ;
do not take up any spoon that happens to be
convenient, and pour in what seems to be
about the right quantity. More and more
cooks are working by rule and not by in-
3
4 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
tuition; but in candy-making the caution
against inaccuracy is especially necessary,
for the processes are delicate, and subtleties
of flavor and of texture are more evident
than in more substantial food.
The weather is of more moment in candy-
making than in plain cooking. Do not try
to make candy on a muggy day; the results
probably will be unsatisfactory. But if
forced to disregard this warning, attempt
but little, act quickly, and remember that
damp weather is the only excuse for the
substitution of intuition for rule. Just why
humidity and low barometric pressure play
havoc with the work of the confectioner
need not be discussed here.
In making confectionery, cleanliness to
the point of chemical purity is highly de-
sirable. Many successful cooks believe
that candy should be made in a pan that
has never been used for anything else. That
belief, perhaps, may be extreme, but the
fact remains that one cannot be too care-
ful in regard to the cleanliness of her uten-
sils. And this necessity for cleanliness
holds for any receptacle in which any in-
gredient is placed. Note particularly that
HELP FOR THE NOVICE 5
heating lard will leave a taint which will
spoil the delicacy of flavor of candy made
in the same dish.
Very often it is desirable that liquids re-
main hot after the actual cooking has been
done. The ordinary stove gives too much
heat for the purpose, and the confection-
er's " working slab " a device moder-
ately heated by steam is expensive. A
cheap and effective substitute, however, is
a humble soapstone. Use marbled cloth
instead of waxed paper to dry candy upon.
Then there will be no danger that little
particles of the paper adhere to the candy.
Candied fruit and similar confections, how-
ever, should be drained on nickeled wire
netting as explained in another chapter.
Place the netting over a dish, and pour
upon it the whole mass of fruit and syrup.
By pouring all of it at once, the coating of
syrup will be uniform: It will dry evenly,
as the air will reach all sides alike. After
most of the moisture has evaporated, the
fruit will be ready to be rolled in sugar.
Sprinkle a shallow dish with coarse
sugar. Roll each piece of fruit in a sep-
arate place in the dish, taking care that
6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
the sugar is absolutely dry when the fruit
is placed in it. If the sugar is damp, it
will mat so that the confection is " mussy "
to the eye and unpleasant to the palate.
Moreover, the scales of damp sugar will
jar off, leaving a break in the complete
covering which is necessary for the preser-
vation of the fruit. One rotting piece will
contaminate another, until the whole box-
ful is unfit for use. If the sugar is prop-
erly applied, candied fruit, well packed,
will keep for several weeks without injury.
Pack soft candies in layers separated by
waxed papers backed by cardboard. Re-
member that the best-made confections will
be unappetizing when presented or served
unattractively.
In pulling taffies or other candies, corn
starch may be put to good use. No def-
inite rules can be given, because the tem-
perature and the humidity of each pair of
hands to put the case euphemistically
are different. Each time the material is
pulled, the candy-maker should dust her
hands as lightly as possible with the corn-
starch. A moderate amount of it worked
into the mass will do no harm, but care
HELP FOR THE NOVICE 7
must be taken not to use so much that the
candy becomes starchy. Moreover, a
heavy coating of the starch does not pro-
tect the hands any more than does a light
dusting.
While the candy is being pulled, it should
be handled as little as possible. Let the
candy's own weight over the hook do the
real work. To avoid " bunchiness," the
confectioner must keep the mass moving in
uniform thickness a difficult task, suc-
cess in which comes only from practice.
II
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE
For real success in candy-making the
amateur needs a few small utensils similar
to those that have long been used by con-
fectioners. The advice which follows can
be as well applied to old-fashioned candy
making as to the new sort.
A copper bonbon dipper, really nothing
more than wire twisted so as to outline a
spoon, will be found convenient for any sort
of dipping likely to be attempted in the
home kitchen. The wire dipper is a much
more satisfactory tool than a silver fork,
the implement usually recommended for
this purpose.
Get fourteen inches of copper wire pre-
ferably number eighteen heavy enough
to bear a few ounces of weight without
bending, but soft enough to be shaped
easily by the fingers. A quarter-pound
spool should not cost over ten cents. Grasp
the wire five inches from one end and bend
8
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 9
it double at that point. The double strand
which makes the handle will then be
five inches long, and the single four. Out of
this single strand, beginning half an inch
from the end of the doubled strand, form
a loop three-quarters of an inch long.
Twisting the wire round the forefinger or
a small empty spool will make the loop.
Wind the two inches of wire left free about
the two parallel strands, carrying it up as
far as it will reach.
This skeleton spoon is excellent for dip-
ping bonbons, fruits or nuts. To hold
objects of different sizes, the soft copper
wire may be bent easily ; and in this respect
the home-made dippers are better than the
nickeled ones on the market. For dipping
creams into chocolate, this dipper is proba-
bly the best device which is available for
the amateur.
Another help is the so-called rubber mat,
useful for modeling wafers and centers.
This is nothing more than a sheet of heavy
rubber fabric, stamped so that molds are
formed. Before using, place the mat in cold
water, dry, and then pour the fondant into
the depressions until they are entirely filled.
io CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
When the fondant is dry enough to hold its
form, the mat is turned upside down, and
the wafers and centers easily freed. After
Rubber Mat
Fig. i
being washed in cold water and carefully
dried, the mat is ready for use again.
The advantage of the mat is that all the
candies are of the same size and regular in
shape, and that no material is wasted. For
the girl who intends to get only one mat, the
kind with round molds " truncated cones,"
to be accurate is the best to buy, because
it may be used equally well for centers or
wafers. See Fig. i above.
The candy-maker who is prepared to
spend more for her equipment may well buy
several mats, each with molds of different
shapes. Then she should reserve one shape
for each flavoring or mixture, so that she
can easily distinguish by sight different
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE II
kinds of creams after they are made. The
mats are sold by weight, generally at the
rate of a dollar and a half a pound. The
one shown in Fig. i weighs eighteen ounces.
Either to fill molds or to drop masses
upon slabs or waxed paper in the old way,
Dropping Funnel.
Fig. 2
the candy-maker will find a dropping funnel
useful. This is a small tin cornucopia with
a long handle. Whittle a clean stick so that
one end of it will fit into the outlet of the
funnel, and plug the hole from above. Fill
the funnel with the mass to be dropped, and
then raise the stick just long enough to al-
low enough of the mass to run out to fill
the mold or if the old plan is followed, to
12 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
form a wafer or cream of proper size. See
Fig. 2, on the preceding page.
Intelligent operation of the funnel makes
the work more rapid and accurate, and the
mass holds its heat longer, and is kept better
mixed than if poured or spooned from a
dish. Funnels especially made for this pur-
pose cost from twenty-five cents to one
dollar; but any tinsmith can easily make
one out of an eight-inch piece of heavy tin,
shaped so as to form a cornucopia, with the
smaller opening not more than three-
eighths of an inch in diameter, and attached
to a handle at least twelve inches long.
For heating mixtures, white enamel dishes
are preferable to tin or aluminum. For
mixing, wooden spoons are better than
metal ones, because the mass which is be-
ing stirred does not stick so readily.
Wooden paddles are often better yet, for
their flat surfaces do not retain masses so
tenaciously.
Perhaps the most useful tool of all is a
nameless instrument which does duty for
both knife and spoon, and in addition has
virtues all its own. It is particularly valu-
able for reaching the corners of pans. This
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 13
tool is not on the general market, but can
be made by most metal-workers either
tinsmiths or blacksmiths. A piece of spring
steel, about ten inches long, rounded at the
end, and curved as shown in Fig. 3, is
Special Knife
Fig. 3
riveted into a wooden handle. Heavy tin
may be substituted for the steel, if desired.
A molasses-candy or taffy pull without
a hook may be good fun, but it is hard on
the candy as well as on the hands. A
blacksmith can easily make the hook of
round iron, about a half-inch in diameter
and eighteen or twenty inches long. The
rod should be bent until it forms roughly a
letter J, with the tip about seven inches
from the horizontal line. The top the up-
per part of the horizontal line of the J
should be pounded flat, and two holes bored
for screws.
Be sure to attach the hook to the wall
14 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
firmly, and about level with the shoulders.
Hooks may be purchased for about fifty
cents apiece, but those made by the black-
smith will do as well. Even with the
hook, it is well to wear canvas gloves, so
that the mass can be handled hotter, and in
a more hygienic fashion than with bare
hands. Canvas gloves are easily laundered
something which cannot be said of the
expensive buckskin gloves recommended for
this purpose.
For use in " cutting in " fondant and other
small masses it is well to buy a four inch
wall paper knife a tool which can be
bought for from ten to twenty-five
cents. Fondant should never be beaten, but
instead it should be " cut in." This process
is scraping up the whole mass, folding it
over and cutting through with the knife.
This motion is repeated, from each side of
the pan, until the fondant becomes a ball
which can be kneaded by the hand.
Procure smooth iron bars, two fifteen
inches long and two eighteen inches long,
all three-eighths of an inch thick and two
inches wide. Any blacksmith shop can fur-
nish them at slight expense, or they may be
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 15
purchased more cheaply from the confec-
tioner's supply stores. The bars are to
be placed set on edge in the form of a
rectangle on a marble slab. Be sure that
the bars are carefully smoothed, for other-
wise they will be untidy and soon rust. By
lapping the edges and moving the bars back
and forth, a receptacle of any size desired
can be made. After buttering slab and
bars, pour the candy into the enclosure.
When it has cooled, remove the bars, and
with one sharp incision cut the candy clear
across. Use a sharp knife of uniform thick-
ness and width, preferably with a thin blade.
It is also convenient to have two bars
six inches long. They are useful in divid-
ing a batch when different flavors or colors
are used. The partitions will be useful for
dividing the filling from the outside layers
when a three-storied candy is to be made.
The need for these bars comes from the
fact that one should never cut candy in a
pan. The attempt to do so will always re-
sult in pieces with crumbling edges, as the
knife has to be dragged through the candy
instead of cutting down sharply, and as the
sides of the pan allow no room for the ex-
16 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
pansion which the width of the knife will
cause. Moreover, there is always waste in
the corners and at the sides.
The candy-maker should appreciate the
palette knife. The flexibility of the blade
is such that it can be put to many uses for
which the ordinary knife is unfitted. For
instance, with a palette knife it is possible
to coax refractory substances from the cor-
ners and edges of pans. Because of this
flexibility, it is particularly useful in lifting
modeled forms from a flat surface, as is ex-
plained in Chapter VIII.
To the confectioner, one of the most use-
ful tools is a modeling stick. This
small tool is of great value to the candy-
maker. It can be grasped easily and its
shape allows of its use at many angles that
would be inconvenient or impossible for a
less adaptable tool. The roundness of the
blunt end serves many purposes; the
straighter side is particularity useful for
smoothing off work, and the inside curves
lend themselves to a great number of proc-
esses.
Wire screens, often known as " wire bak-
ing forms," are very useful for drying can-
FOR THE CANDY-MAKER'S TABLE 17
dies that have been sugared or for draining
confections that need to be exposed to the
air. Those that are oblong in shape are
much more convenient than the round ones.
The wires forming the screens cross at dis-
tances of about one-sixteenth of an inch,
making really a coarse sieve. The sides ex-
tend up about one-half inch. The screens
make excellently ventilated trays, but for
candies that come from an ordinary crystal
the mesh is too fine to allow proper drain-
ing. Should the crystal be very thin, how-
ever, the screen can be used for draining,
provided the pieces are well separated and
placed only one layer deep.
Wire racks for the drying of candy are
among the necessary equipment of the
candy-maker. These may be had in vary-
ing degrees of fineness, the wires forming
squares of from three-eighths to three-quar-
ters of an inch. Squares of one-half inch
and under give the best support for confec-
tions, however, and allow ample room for
draining. If the candies are small or soft
the large squares give insufficient support.
The racks are without sides, the edges be-
ing formed either by a heavy wire or a metal
i8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
binding. The supports are made by wires
bent down at the ends and at the center.
These racks are the same as the " cake cool-
ers " of ordinary cookery.
Another method of drying particularly
useful for models and cream centers is a bed
of corn starch. Do not use this plan with
any confection the surface of which is wet
from the application of pastes.
As the basis for this process buy two or
three packages of a cheap grade of corn
starch. The corn starch can be kept ready
for use by occasionally drying it out and
sifting it.
Spread the corn starch in a large shallow
pan or tray thick enough to hold the weight
of your candy. This gives a non-resisting
surface which keeps the models in form and
when dry the corn starch will easily brush
off.
By all odds the most valuable tool for
the confectioner, amateur or professional, is
the candy thermometer. Its use is so im-
portant that the following chapter is de-
voted to a discussion of it.
Ill
THE CANDY THERMOMETER
For real success in candy-making, the
home confectioner needs a candy ther-
mometer. As is emphasized throughout
the volume, accuracy is of the greatest im-
portance in candy-making. Cooking must
stop at just the right moment, or the candy
is either harmed or actually spoiled. Un-
til the last few years, for the amateur, the
only tests to determine the completion of
cooking have been known as "thread,"
"soft ball," "hard ball," "crack" and
" hard crack." While the candy-maker has
been struggling with these unsatisfactory
tests, the candy has kept on cooking, per-
haps until it has reached the next stage of
temperature, changed texture, and so be-
come unfit for the use for which it was in-
tended.
The professional confectioner has long
been able, by the use of a thermometer, to
determine just how hot his candy was and
19
20 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
to remove it from the heat at exactly the
right moment. His thermometer, however,
was not only too expensive for the amateur,
but also too long to be used except in a
large vat. There are now on the market,
however, thermometers that the amateur
confectioner or small manufacturer can use
to advantage. Even when hardware deal-
ers do not keep the thermometers in stock,
they can and will order them from
their jobbers. The instruments, of which
there are several makes, are about nine
inches long, and sell for from one dollar to
two dollars and fifty cents. Most of these
instruments register from about eighty de-
grees to three hundred and eighty degrees
Fahrenheit, although the range which in-
terests candy-makers most is only from
two hundred degrees to three hundred and
twenty degrees. There are a few facts
which the girl confectioner who uses a
thermometer should keep in mind.
Buy a thermometer which is guaranteed
by its -maker. See that the markings are
so well defined that they can be read easily.
Before use, the thermometer must be regu-
lated to conform to the local altitude.
THE CANDY THERMOMETER 21
Place the thermometer in a kettle of water,
heat, and let it boil for ten minutes. If the
mercury marks two hundred and twelve de-
grees, the thermometer is correct as it is,
but if there is a variation of two degrees or
more, allowance must be made. If water
boils at two hundred and ten degrees, two
degrees must be subtracted every time the
thermometer is read. Then " soft ball "
means two hundred and thirty-six degrees,
not two hundred and thirty-eight degrees,
as it would had the water boiled at the
normal two hundred and twelve degrees, or
two hundred and forty degrees, as it would
had the water boiled at two hundred and
fourteen degrees. Do not think that a
variation of even two degrees is too slight
to count; absolute accuracy is essential.
For safety in transit, manufacturers often
pinch together the case of the instrument
so that the scale-piece can not work loose
and become broken. A very little tinker-
ing with the copper jacket, however, will be
sufficient to free the scale-piece. This must
be done, not only so that the thermometer
can be cleaned readily, but so that, when
the mixture to be tested is shallow, the
22 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
dial can be pushed out in order that the
bulb can be covered by the hot mass. Un-
less the bulb is covered, the thermometer
will not register correctly.
Allow the thermometer to become hot
gradually; do not thrust a cold instrument
into boiling water. Do not remove the
thermometer to read it, as it quickly
changes. Read it with the eye on the
level. Remember that mixtures which
require stirring must be stirred below the
thermometer as well as elsewhere. Be sure
that the thermometer is clean. Each time
after it has been used push the dial out of
the copper case and wash both thoroughly.
Do not neglect the back of the piece of
metal to which the tube is attached. Be
particularly careful after mixtures which
contain milk or cream. This removable
scale is a great convenience.
The amateur candy-maker will be glad to
know that sugar and water will not burn
until all the moisture is evaporated, and
that does not happen until three hundred
and fifty degrees is reached. If, however,
she is making an unusually small quantity,
and the thermometer begins to climb above
three hundred degrees beware! The
THE CANDY THERMOMETER 23
large quantity, however, will take care of
itself because of the moisture it contains.
Below is a table which will enable one to
interpret the old stages in terms of degrees.
Fortunately most candy thermometers have
this information stamped upon their dials.
310 Hard Cracked 238 Soft Ball
290 Cracked 230 Thread
254 Hard Ball
In the following pages it is assumed that
the cook has a thermometer. If she has not,
the degrees given may be translated into
the old stages and the old tests used.
Thus, if the directions read " cook to two
hundred and thirty-eight degrees," the con-
fectioner who has no thermometer will stop
the cooking when a portion of the mass will
"form a * soft bair in cold water." If
the directions read two hundred and thirty-
six degrees, the " soft ball " must be softer ;
if two hundred and forty degrees, the " soft
ball " not so soft. Thus, without the ther-
mometer, the thermometer readings form a
scale which makes easier the application of
the old tests. Be it noted that- the ther-
mometer is no more necessary in vegetable
candy-making than in the traditional sort.
IV
THE USE OF STEAM IN CANDY-
MAKING.
Steam may be used so that it will be of
much help to amateur candy-makers, few
of whom realize its possibilities. These
possibilities, which range from actual cook-
ing to the maintenance of the minimum of
heat, may all be grouped under four proc-
esses.
First, to steam: Steaming is cooking by
moist heat but not immersing the material
in the water as in the boiling process. It
should be followed to soften dried fruits or
other ingredients, as often required by
candy receipts. The best way is to place
the materials upon a rack supported a
couple of inches above the water in the
cooking vessel, covering it tightly and
placing it on the fire. The confined vapor
will soon soften whatever is within the
vessel.
Second, the double boiler: The double
24
THE USE OF STEAM 25
boiler is of particular value when protective
cooking is desired. This method will hold
all juices present but neither adds moisture
nor dries out existing moisture as happens
when the mixture is over a direct blaze. In
this way, the materials can be heated with-
out burning. It is of particular value with
materials that need heat but need no fur-
ther moisture simply the development of
that moisture which they already have.
Third, a modification of the use of the
double boiler by leaving off the cover:
Thus the temperature is lowered and the
actual cooking operation lengthened. Va-
pors that may arise from the cooking mass
are allowed to escape instead of being ab-
sorbed.
Fourth, the steam bath : The steam bath
is obtained by placing the receptacle con-
taining the mass over a smaller vessel con-
taining boiling water. In this way, the
steam is applied only to the bottom of the
receptacle and its intensity may be varied.
The lowest possible heat may be applied;
temperatures far below the boiling point,
or even the cooking point, are made pos-
sible. The temperature of the upper dish is
26 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
regulated by the distance from the direct
heat of vessel containing the water. Al-
ways start with boiling water so that the
material treated will be affected only by the
heat of the steam and not the direct heat
which is bringing the water to the boiling
point. This method is particularly valua-
ble for keeping fondant and other masses
moderately hot for dipping, or for melting
chocolate or bon-bon creams, which should
be melted at less than one hundred degrees.
CRYSTALLIZATION
One often wonders why the candy-eating
public has the chocolate habit. The an-
swer is simple. The manufacturer gener-
ally offers the public chocolates. To one
not conversant with candy-making, it is
not so easy, however, to explain why the
candy-maker offers the chocolates largely
to the exclusion of other confections. To
the initiated, however, the matter is simple
indeed. Chocolate makes an air tight cov-
ering that protects all sides alike. It
makes it possible to keep candy not in-
tended for immediate consumption and to
ship it from one place to another without
injury. Without it, the manufacturer
would be in a bad way indeed. The con-
fectioner, then, has fostered the chocolate
habit because it is useful to him.
Crystallization enables the candy-cook to
put ordinary cream and sugar mixtures into
good society dress and make them a pleas-
27
28 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
ure to the people who are not devoted to
chocolate. Although the crystal coated
confection may not stand some of the
harder tests that the chocolate coated candy
will withstand, it will be found sufficiently
reliable to mark a very great advance in
candy-making, particularly in home candy-
making. And after all, the basic mixtures
in home-made candy are not so very differ-
ent from those in the candy of the pro-
fessional manufacturer. The home candy-
cook, the small maker and the professional
manufacturer, who is, of course, far better
equipped for crystallizing than either of the
others, can, after a careful study of the
different degrees of sugar crystallizing,
make almost any candy as satisfactory in
texture and appearance, and as easy to
handle, as are the chocolate confections.
A sufficient number of dippings in the crys-
tal accomplishes the result. " One part
water and three parts sugar," is the slogan
of the crystallizer. This is the composi-
tion of any crystal syrup. Although crys-
tal syrups differ only in the temperature
to which they are raised, their foundation
is invariable. As long as the proportions
CRYSTALLIZATION 29
are kept the same, the quantities do not
matter much theoretically. Practically,
however, one cupful of sugar and one-third
of a cupful of water is about as much as
can be handled effectively at one time.
The success of the process lies in repeated
dippings. With each immersion, the con-
fection takes to itself a little more syrup;
it thus acquires a heavier coating of the
protective covering. The actual process is
very simple. Each piece is separately
dropped into the syrup and, after thorough
immersion, is lifted out with a wire dipper,
the surplus syrup allowed to run off, and
placed for drying upon a wire screen.
In the pages that follow, frequent use is
made of crystallization. In each case, the
degree to which the syrup is to be heated
is given.
It must be understood, be it noted, that
this simple crystal dipping does not make
the candy; it merely adds a protective and
beautifying covering. The candy, already
complete in a way, is dipped into the mix-
ture of sugar and water. In the process
that follows, however, the crystallization
is of a different and more fundamental sort.
30 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
In this second case, the crystallization is
the method of making the candy com-
pletely.
For small candies, a novel modification
of French hand crystallization is useful be-
cause the process can be put to good use
in the many sorts of candy-making. The
candy-cook can well afford to make her-
self master of it. She should know, how-
ever, that the process is not so difficult as
the description of it would indicate. Al-
though the labor must be done on six suc-
cessive days, the work requires but a very
few moments except upon the first day.
The result desired is a slow crystalliza-
tion which thoroughly cooks the base
so treated and preserves it perfectly. In
addition, the process ensures an appearance
attractive to the eye and a flavor equally
attractive to the palate.
A drying rack and a pan are the only
utensils that are necessary. They should
be of a size so that the rack will drop
about one-half way into the pan and be
upheld by the sloping sides. Note that the
pan must be reserved for crystallization.
If it is used for other purposes, it is likely
CRYSTALLIZATION 31
to absorb flavors that will work havoc with
the delicate confectionery that is placed
within it.
Make a syrup by boiling one part of
water and three parts of granulated sugar
for ten minutes. Thereupon place in it the
base to be treated by this process. That
all the pieces may be very thoroughly
separated, stir the mass carefully with a
wooden paddle; it is absolutely necessary
that all the surfaces of all of the mass come
into direct contact with the hot syrup. All
that is necessary, however, is that each
piece be thoroughly immersed in the hot
syrup; in a surprisingly short space of time,
the little pieces of confectionery will be
heated through.
Have the rack in position in the pan;
over it, pour the hot mass syrup and all.
See that the candy is evenly distributed
over the rack. Immediately place a board
over the pan; a molding board will do
very well indeed. If a tin cover were used
in place of the wooden, the steam would
condense and drop back on to the candy
instead of being absorbed. After the pan
32 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
has been left undisturbed for a full day,
lift the rack out and pour the syrup into
a suitable receptacle, cook to two hundred
and twenty degrees and place in it again
the candy. Take the crystal from the fire.
Stir carefully, making sure that each piece
is thoroughly immersed. Place the rack in
the pan as directed above, and again pour
over it the syrup with the candy in it.
Note, however, that it is necessary that the
wire netting be free from hardened par-
ticles of the syrup. Cleanliness, almost to
the point of chemical purity, is necessary.
This process must be repeated four times
more, but each time the mass should be
cooked two degrees higher in each case,
twenty-four hours must elapse between
each treatment. After the last operation,
the candy should be allowed to dry on the
racks. The result will be found well worth
the time expended.
VI
CHOCOLATE COATING
The ability to handle chocolate success-
fully is a great assistance to the maker of
vegetable candy. Although chocolate coat-
ing is no more an essential in vegetable
candy-making than in the old fashioned
kind, there are very many times when the
ability to use it effectively will be very
useful to the confectioner. In either sort
of candy-making, it is but a finish as
acceptable a finish to the one as to the
other. Many people like the flavor of
chocolate, and it is extremely serviceable
because it furnishes a uniform covering
for confections. Thus, when chocolate
coated candies rub against one another in
the box in which they are packed, their
uniformity prevents their taking to them-
selves strange flavors and colors. No
candy-maker should scorn to make herself
master of the intricacies of chocolate coat-
ing.
33
34 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
The best instructor in chocolate coat-
ing is a few pounds of chocolate, firm,
well-shaped centers, an allowance of time
and interest, plenty of good common sense
and inclination to profit by the hints given
below. With the knowledge that will be
accumulated after a few trials, the candy-
maker will soon be able to give to her
candy the niceties of the professional prod-
uct. The confectioner can well begin
with nuts, or some other hard centers, for
they are comparatively easy to handle.
By handling them, she will soon gain the
experience necessary to the successful
finishing of other textures. From surpris-
ingly little experimentation, she will ob-
tain sufficient skill to handle successfully
almost any center that will take the cover-
ing.
A thorough general knowledge of the
behavior of chocolate and a clear under-
standing of the behavior of the stock on
hand are of more value than the methods
of application of the coating. Since no two
lots of chocolate are exactly the same, it
is well to buy a fairly large supply at one
time. In this way it is possible when han-
CHOCOLATE COATING 35
dling the first batch to learn the peculiari-
ties of all the chocolate purchased and
thereafter to handle the stock with assur-
ance. For good results it is well to buy
the regular " coating chocolate " which is
sold by many grocery and specialty stores
for just this purpose. If coating chocolate
cannot be obtained, ordinary baking choco-
late sweetened with confectioner's sugar
can be substituted, but the substitution is
to be avoided, for the finished work is sure
to be inferior.
In all sorts of candy-making, climatic
conditions are of the utmost importance.
In no other branch of cooking is the cook
so dependent upon the weather. In
muggy weather it is impossible to do good
work; often, indeed, it is impossible to do
any work at all. Therefore, it is of the ut-
most importance that the confectioner
yield respectful obedience to the humid-
ity.
This warning is of particular weight in
connection with the handling of chocolate.
Even if the day is only slightly rainy, or
foggy, do not try to use chocolate. Even
experts do not defy this law, but since
36 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
they work under commercial conditions,
they are generally able absolutely to con-
trol the atmosphere.
The room in which the actual operation
of coating is conducted should be warm
and dry. First, break into small pieces
more chocolate than you will actually use
in the coating. Put these lumps in a dish
set over hot water and melt them slowly
at a low temperature. To do this most
effectually the water should previously
have been boiled and the steam allowed
to subside. Of course, the water must be
very hot when the dish with the chocolate
is placed over it. As the first piece melts,
stir slowly from time to time. When the
chocolate has melted, remove the dish from
the heat and work all of the oil globules
from the mass. This is accomplished not
by hard or rapid motion, but by persever-
ingly and persuasively smoothing the mass
until it is sufficiently cool. These oil
globules, be it noted, must be treated with
the greatest respect. If they become over
heated, they are likely to require much
more work, even if they do not ruin the
batch.
CHOCOLATE COATING 37
In studying this melting process, it is
well to think of the action of heat upon
butter. Suppose, for illustration, it is de-
sired to cream a lump of cold butter. If
much heat is applied to the butter the out-
side immediately becomes running grease.
It is possible that the cooler inside por-
tion of the lump may be beaten into it,
but the result will not be smooth. On the
other hand, if the butter is allowed to
soften gradually under the influence of
moderate warmth, the whole mass would
melt uniformly and could be beaten into
the desired smoothness.
The warning that water must not
be allowed accidentally to enter the
chocolate cannot be too often re-
peated.
Probably this is the surest test as to
whether or not the chocolate is ready for
the dipping: Drop a center into the mass
so that it will be covered with the choco-
late, remove the surplus either by pulling
it over the edge of the dish, or by shaking,
and let the drop fall squarely upon the
sheet of special confectioner's glazed pa-
per, or of oilcloth, or oiled paper, upon
38 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
which it is to be cooled. Take care lest
the piece slips when dropped. If it does
slip, the base will have a thin projection
that may break off and, even if it does not
render the coating pervious, become un-
sightly. If the candy-maker is careful and
the coating has been worked sufficiently
and has been allowed to become sufficiently
cool, the base will form squarely and
evenly and the chocolate immediately will
become firm. In other words, the candies
should begin to set at once without form-
ing projecting bases as soon as they are
dropped upon the sheet upon which they
are to dry.
Although chocolates should be covered
in a warm room, they should be cooled as
rapidly as possible. As soon as they are
finished, they should be placed upon a
small tray and removed to a cool place.
The small tray is desirable since by its
use the candies can be quickly transferred.
In summer the tray should be placed in
the refrigerator, but should not be allowed
to remain for more than five minutes. If
the chocolate coated confections are kept
upon the ice for longer than that time,
CHOCOLATE COATING 39
they will soon be covered by a sweat that
will ruin them.
After the coated drops have become cold,
the candy-maker should examine them
carefully. If the bases have spread, she
can assume that the chocolate was not
cooled sufficiently or that the surplus was
not effectively removed. If the coating is
streaked or light colored, she will know
that the chocolate was not worked suffi-
ciently, or that the drops did not cool
quickly enough after they were coated. If
the candy becomes sticky when it is
brought into a warm room, the verdict will
be that the oil was not properly worked
into the mass.
In the chapters that follow, there are de-
scribed many candies that offer desirable
combinations with chocolate. In fact, the
vegetable flavors are quite as adaptable to
chocolate coating as are those that have
already won popular attention and favor.
Occasionally, in the subsequent pages,
mention is made of the fact that the con-
fection described may well be covered with
chocolate, but more often chocolate coat-
ing is not suggested when it is possible.
40 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
It is assumed, and no doubt safely as-
sumed, that the candy-cook, from her ex-
perience in the old-fashioned confection-
ery, will know what candy can be coated,
and what cannot be successfully coated.
VII
SUGAR
No discussion of candy or candy-making
is complete without a statement concerning
sugar its kinds, value and proper use.
Without doubt sugar is one of the most
maligned of foods. It does do damage when
eaten at the wrong time or to excess. From
this fact springs one of the great advantages
of vegetable candy; in it the proportion of
sugar to the bulk of the confection is so re-
duced that the normal craving for sweets
is satisfied without the consumption of a
quantity of sugar that insures disaster.
Experimentation long ago showed that
sugar is the quickest source of energy in
the whole list of available foods. No other
food approximates sugar in the ease in
which it can be formed into actual body
energy. This fact has long been appre-
ciated by athletes. One case in proof was
that of two school boys seventeen and nine-
teen years of age, who had only two hours
42 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
a day for two months for practice before
rowing races in which both were entered.
No change was made in their diet except
they were permitted to eat as much sugar
as they wished, sometimes as much as one-
third of a pound a day. One of them, how-
ever, did not begin to eat this excess sugar
until the third week of his practicing, when
he began to show the signs of over train-
ing loss of weight and no desire for either
exercise or study. On the third day after
beginning the use of the excess sugar these
symptoms disappeared, and he became as
vigorous as the other. Before the time for
the race both youths were in the best of
physical condition and were victorious over
their antagonists who did not believe in the
use of sugar. Subsequently, observation
revealed no bad after effects. Similar in-
stances could be indefinitely repeated.
The fundamental fact that sugar gives
energy and gives it with great rapidity
has been made use of by army officers, par-
ticularly German.
It must be remembered, however, that
sugar is purely an energy-producing food.
It is necessary, then, that there be other
SUGAR 43
foods consumed with it in order to pre-
serve a proper balance. These other foods,
be it noted, are present in vegetable candy.
The current idea that sugar is fattening is
wholly wrong. It is not sugar that is fat-
tening, but too much sugar. Only when
sugar is consumed in a quantity in excess of
that which can be taken care of by the hu-
man commissary department, is it trans-
formed into fat and stored as reserved ma-
terial.
The methods of refining sugar have been
so perfected within the last few years that
it is safe to say that few food substances in
commercial use are so near to being chemi-
cally pure as granulated sugars of good
grade. No less an authority than Ely the
says, " Loaf sugar is, as a rule, chemically
pure. It is probably, indeed, the purest of
all substances in commerce, and a large
quantity may be burnt up without obtaining
a trace of nitrogen and without leaving any
residue. The only sugar that may be im-
pure are the raw sugars."
It is commonly known that sugar may
come from any one of numberless sources.
Sugar of milk is the first sugar with which
44 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
members of the human race become ac-
quainted, but one which, of course, is of
little account in candy-making. The sugar
of fruits is in an easily accessible form and
one which is of particular value when com-
bined with cane sugar. Honey as stored by
the honey bee formerly was highly prized
for food value, but now that it is so often
stored by the factory without any activity
on the part of the honey bee, and now that
cane sugar is so very cheap, it is not so
much in demand. For the sugar of candy-
making, there are three sources: the sugar
cane, sugar beet and the sugar maple. For
practical purposes, maple sugar may be left
out of the discussion.
Ever since sugar has been made on a
commercial scale from beets there has
waged a controversy as to the relative
merits of beet sugar and cane sugar. As
far as the amateur candy-maker is con-
cerned, however, the controversy is not of
practical interest, for almost all of the sugar
that is sold in small quantities is made from
beets. Indeed, it is said that it is practically
impossible for the housekeeper to obtain
sugar made from cane. Moreover, not-
SUGAR 45
withstanding the popular impression that
cane sugar is preferable, scientists insist
that in every case the pure cane sugar, or
saccharose, can be crystallized out from
either cane or beet, and that the sugar is
identical in chemical composition, appear-
ance and properties. By no chemical test
known to the United States Department of
Agriculture can pure crystallized saccha-
rose from these different sources be dis-
tinguished. The popular impression to the
contrary probably comes from the use of
beet sugar that has been imperfectly puri-
fied. It is interesting to note that there
are over ninety grades of sugar known to
commerce. The difference between these
grades is often so slight that it is impossi-
ble to distinguish without painstaking
laboratory analysis. In this book white
sugar and confectioner's sugar are used
wherever possible because they are the pur-
est kinds. Brown sugar and coffee A.,
much used in candy-making, are grades
which have not been refined to so high a
point.
A word should be said concerning glu-
cose. The complaint which has been made
46 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
in connection with glucose has not been
made against the substance itself, but
against the way it was used. The amateur
candy-maker, however, often has difficulty
in obtaining glucose, even though in some
processes it is most useful.
R. E. Doolittle of the Federal Board of
Food and Drug Inspection, declares that no
question of harmfulness has been raised by
this board with respect to the use of glu-
cose in food products. Where glucose is
substituted for sugar and used instead of
natural sweetening agents, the ruling has
been made that its presence should be
plainly declared upon the label of the
product. The reasons for this action are:
(i) where a manufactured substance is sub-
stituted for a natural one it is believed that
the purchaser is entitled to be informed of
the substitution; (2) the cost of glucose is
usually somewhat lower than that of suc-
rose; (3) glucose consists only in part of
a sugar, dextrose, and is inferior to sucrose
in sweetening power.
In this country commercial glucose is
manufactured from the starch of the In-
dian corn. The starch is suspended in
SUGAR 47
water, the whole placed into large steam
tanks together with some hydrochloric acid,
the steam is turned on to these tanks and
the whole brought up to a heavy pressure.
By this means the starch is partially con-
verted into dextrose, a sugar, and dextrin,
a gum. When the conversion has reached
the proper point the pressure is removed,
the hot liquid is neutralized with sodium
carbonate, filtered and evaporated to a thick
liquid. The resulting compound contains
about 35 per cent, dextrose,- about 45 per
cent, dextrin, a small percentage of ash and
the rest water.
A word of caution should be given con-
cerning the time of eating sugar. Ob-
viously if candy is consumed before meals
it will destroy the appetite and interfere
seriously with the meal. Obviously, also,
it is unwise to eat heavily of candy before
retiring. Notwithstanding her enthusiasm
for vegetable candies the writer feels these
cautions should be just as much observed
witn vegetable candy as with any other.
The whole question of the amount and
form of sugar to be given to children, is
one of utmost importance. Children lose
48 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
more heat from the skin for every pound of
body weight than do the adults, and be-
cause of this fact, require proportionately
more heat. This heat can come only from
food and sugar is the food which produces
this heat most directly and most cheaply.
This need for a heat producing food, it could
be urged, could be readily met by the use
of fat. The difficulty is that fat, and par-
ticularly fat meat, is generally disliked by
the child. Because of this distaste, his de-
sire for all sorts of sweet things has
undoubtedly a physiological basis. It
is necessary, however, to observe very
carefully the digestibility of sugar and
sweetened foods in order to decide to what
extent sugar is to replace starch in the
dietary. The effect of sugar upon the ap-
petite for other foods must be given par-
ticular care. Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel,
president of the American Home Eco-
nomics Association, says that, until a child's
stomach is capable of digesting starch, the
needed carbohydrate is furnished in the
sugar of milk. The child a year old who
drinks two quarts of milk per day takes in
this way about three ounces of sugar. " As
SUGAR 49
the stomach becomes able to digest starch,"
Mrs. Abel continues, " the child is less and
less dependent on the sugar of milk, re-
placing it with the carbohydrates of vege-
table origin, while the proteids and fat
found in eggs, meat, and cereals take the
place of those constituents that were at first
exclusively furnished in milk. Milk, how-
ever, remains through childhood a valuable
source of all these food principles.
" The fact that sugar has a high food
value is not the only point to be considered.
The child will easily obtain the needed car-
bohydrates in other forms and will thrive
if the digestion remains sound and its relish
for wholesome food unimpaired. For in-
stance, one often hears it said that a cer-
tain child does not relish milk. In such
cases it might be found that the child's ap-
petite, being sated by sugar in other foods,
is no longer attracted by the mild sweetness
of fresh milk, delicious as it is to the un-
spoiled palate. It would be well, perhaps,
in this instance, to cut down the allowance
of sugar in the hope of restoring the taste
for so invaluable a food as milk. Dr. Rotch
insists that the infant, even in its second
50 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
year, should never be allowed to taste
sweets. He says, 'When these articles are
withheld it will continue to have a healthy
appetite and taste for necessary and proper
articles of food/ Even much later, for the
same reasons, the introduction of large
amounts of sugar into the daily food of
children is to be carefully considered.
Children do not require a variety of flavors
to stimulate the appetite, but the taste is
easily perverted and the backward step is
difficult to take. Those who have studied
the food habits of children seem to agree
that sugar should from the very first be
withheld from the dish that forms the staple
food of the child that is, the mush or
porridge of oatmeal or some preparation
of wheat or corn. This article of diet,
eaten only with milk or cream, falls into the
same class as bread and milk, and forms the
simple, wholesome basis of a meal. The
sugar given the child is better furnished in
the occasional simple pudding, in the lump
of sugar, or homemade candy, not that its
food value is better utilized, but the whole
food of the child is thus more wholesome."
Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel concludes her
SUGAR 51
discussion with the statement : " Sugar is a
useful and valuable food. It must, how-
ever, be remembered that it is a concen-
trated food and therefore should be eaten
in moderate quantities. Further, like other
concentrated foods, sugar seems best fitted
for assimilation by the body when supplied
with other materials which dilute it or give
it the necessary bulk."
It is this fact, from the point of view of
the dietitian, that commends vegetable
candy so highly. The vegetable base gives
the necessary bulk and dilution in addi-
tion to adding other valuable food elements.
SECTION TWO
VIII
DECORATIVE CANDIES
I. FROM POTATO PASTE
Now that the use of vegetable bases is
reduced to principles, the amateur confec-
tioner need have no difficulty in working
out in candy attractive and novel designs
suitable to all special days and uses. And
the best of it is thanks to such a humble
vegetable as the potato she can follow
her own ideas and fashion in confectionery
a pattern that is all her own. Moreover,
she can take comfort in the thought that in
her product there is none of the highly in-
jurious ingredients unfortunately all too
common in some decorative candies.
As the foundation for one sort of deco-
rative confectionery, potato paste must be
made. Steam or boil Irish potatoes, drain
them, and force them through a fine sieve,
the finer the better. With one-half cup-
ful of Irish potato, so prepared, mix one
tablespoonful of corn starch. Gradually
53
;
DECORATIVE CANDIES 53
and carefully work in enough confec-
tioner's sugar so that the mixture can be
rolled.
The " fine sieve," be it noted, plays a
conspicuous and important part in the mak-
ing of candy from vegetables. Moreover,
it should be borne in mind that no veg-
etable particle will either soften in or cook
up into syrup. While cooking, the veg-
etable particles are just as individual as
though they were in separate vessels; con-
sequently they must be kept circulating as
uniformly as is possible through the syrup
in order to prevent the accumulation of
masses of vegetable matter of sufficient
bulk and weight to sink to the bottom of
the sauce pan and cause the mixture to
burn. Moreover, should the mixture es-
cape burning, it would develop gluey spots
that would make the finished product lack-
ing in the smoothness that is the ideal of
the candy-cook.
Flavor and color this paste to suit, place
it on a surface well dusted with confection-
er's sugar and roll it to the desired thin-
ness. Cut it in shapes to suit. Cooky cut-
ters or any other tin cutters may be used.
54 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
More often, however, the amateur confec-
tioner will prefer her own design.
Cut a pattern of the desired design from
paper, or, if it is to be used repeatedly,
from paste board. Oiling the pattern not
only gives it a firmer edge and prevents
tearing but also allows any sugar or paste
that may have adhered to it easily to be
wiped off. Lay the pattern over the paste,
and, with a sharp pointed knife, cut along
the edges. Lift the newly cut forms care-
fully with a thin knife and transfer them
for drying to an oil cloth or, if this cannot
be done, to a waxed paper or a tin very
thinly dusted with confectioner's sugar.
Do not move them again until they are dry.
If it is desired to pack the candy, cook a
crystal a " crystal " is a syrup of one
part water and three parts sugar to two
hundred and twenty degrees and after it
has cooled five minutes, dip the confection
into it.
It is not essential that the forms be
dipped into the crystal nor is the crystal ab-
solutely necessary to any of the confections
that are often coated with it. All this is ex-
plained in Chapter V Crystallization.
DECORATIVE CANDIES 55
A knife which is of almost constant use
in making decorative candies and which is
particularly satisfactory for lifting small
forms is a palette knife such as artists use
for mixing their colors. It is thin, flexible
and sufficiently sharp for cutting fondant.
Also the blade lends itself to use in many
different positions because its curved shape
allows the hand a degree of freedom not
possible with the ordinary knife. The
palette knife is much better for freeing or
lifting forms from a flat surface than a
spatula or a case knife.
The imagination of the candy-maker will
suggest special designs for special occa-
sions. The fancy of the confectioner will
suggest many attractive original forms, be-
sides the traditional red and white hearts
for St. Valentine's Day, note illustration
No. 17 in the frontispiece the green sham-
rock for March 17, and the hatchet for Wash-
ington's birthday. Christmas, New Years,
Easter, Memorial Day, Fourth of July,
Labor Day, Columbus Day, Hallowe'en and
innumerable local holidays, like Bunker
Hill day and Patriots' Day of Massa-
chusetts, all of these special occasions
56 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
offer abundant opportunity to the candy-
maker who realizes that from the paste can
be made representations of anything from
a firecracker to a regiment of soldiers.
Cooky cutters may also be used indefinite-
ly; what child would not like candy in the
form of stars, dogs, horses, and trees?
Green Leaves. An excellent illustration
of the possibilities of potato paste is given
by green leaves. As the basis for them,
color potato paste green, by the use of
green coloring paste, of the harmless veg-
etable sort, and flavor fairly strongly with
peppermint. Roll the paste thin, cut out
the leaves, using the point of a knife or a
tin cutter, and model the veins. A small,
blunt, wooden tool, even a clean orange
stick will do should be used to make the
depressions that are the veins. After the
leaves have dried on waxed paper, dip into
a crystal cooked to two hundred and twen-
ty-five degrees. Drain them on a wire rack
and dust them evenly with granulated
sugar. It is well to use a thin bladed knife
to lift the pieces. See the small box in the
middle of the illustration facing page 98,
and No. i in the frontispiece.
DECORATIVE CANDIES 57
II. VIOLETS
Violets. In hot weather violets do not
take kindly to the " candying " process,
and in cold they are expensive and hard to
get. There ?.*e no such limitations, how-
ever, to pop-corn and cocoanut. " Violets "
made from them are especially good
Christmas candies, because they are decora-
tive and can be made a month or six
weeks in advance long before the last
rush.
Pop-corn Violets. Using the hard spots
for centers, jam and break well-blown
kernels of pop-corn until they resemble vio-
lets, as they will do with more exactness
than would be thought. Boil one cupful of
sugar and one-third cupful of water until a
syrup is formed; the thermometer should
register two hundred and nineteen degrees.
After the syrup is cool, dip the pop-corn
into it, making sure that the liquid forms an
even and complete covering. As a thin
crust begins to cover the syrup, keep push-
ing it down into the liquid. If this is done
the syrup can all be used before it has time
to harden. Immediately after the surplus
58 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
has drained off, dredge lightly with pow-
dered sugar, into which has been worked
violet coloring paste, previously moistened
with a few drops of violet extract, or even
water. In this case the colored sugar should
be a shade or two lighter than is desired for
the finished product, as the syrup darkens
the color.
Note No. 2 of the frontispiece.
Cocoanut Violets. Mix the white of an
egg, one-half cupful confectioner's sugar
the kind sometimes known as XXXX and
one-half cupful of Irish potato prepared as
directed above. This makes more candy
than the home confectioner ordinarily has
use for, but directions for a smaller amount
cannot well be given owing to the practical
impossibility of dividing an egg. An easy
way out of the difficulty, however, is to
use as much of this mixture as is desired
for the violets and to save the rest for use
in making potato fondant, described here-
after.
Flavor this mixture with violet extract.
Add the color with the extract, but remem-
ber that a little will go a long way. Use
vegetable violet coloring paste until the
DECORATIVE CANDIES 59
color is a shade or two darker than is de-
sired for the finished product. Stir in cocoa-
nut until all the mass adheres to the cocoa-
nut. Baker's cocoanut is better than the
shredded, but often the shredded must be
used, as the other size is becoming more and
more difficult to obtain. If the shredded is
used, break it so that each piece will not be
more than one-half inch long. If the mix-
ture does not theft dry readily, stir in more
confectioner's sugar.
To fashion the violets, dip the fingers
into cold water, take up a quantity of the
preparation about the size of a violet, and
model into the shape of the flower. A little
practice will enable the candy-maker to
form objects that look more like violets
than do the flowers themselves after they
have been put through the candying
process. Sift granulated sugar over
each flower, shaking off surplus sugar.
Dry on waxed paper. This confection
would better be used within two or three
weeks.
Violet Boutonniere. From violets, pre-
ferably cocoanut, boutonnieres very attract-
ive for favors can be fashioned. Have
60 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
ready a supply of the violets, candied cress
leaves, violet, green or tinsel foil, lace paper
mats, small paper doilies may be substi-
tuted, and number twenty-two wire. It is
well to cut wires six inches long for they can
later be trimmed or bent to form a stem of
from three and one-half to four inches long.
With a fine needle puncture the back of a
cocoanut violet and insert the end of a piece
of wire. To make the union firm, place a
drop of thick syrup at the point at which
the wire enters the mixture. Seven violets
so treated will be sufficient for one bouton-
niere. In a similar manner, wire one less
of the crystallized cress leaves. Put all the
wires through the center of the mat.
Group the violets about one placed in the
center. As nearly all mats come with an
even number of designs in the edge, it is
much easier to arrange the boutonniere if
the row of flowers next the mat contains an
even number also. The leaves should be
so arranged in a row underneath the flow-
ers. Before an attractive arrangement can
be made, some little experimenting may be
necessary. Wrap the wires with tissue
paper and cover with foil. The making of
DECORATIVE CANDIES 61
the boutonnieres is not so difficult as it
sounds, though some knack is required for
the best results.
See the illustration opposite page 72.
III. FROM POTATO FONDANT
Uncooked Fondant. Potato fondant is
another base even more useful than po-
tato paste upon which many confections
may be built. There are two kinds
cooked and uncooked. To make the un-
cooked, boil or steam Irish potatoes, drain,
and force them through a fine sieve. In all
candy-making with potatoes, these direc-
tions are of the utmost importance. Un-
less the potato is carefully forced through
a fine sieve, the candy made from it will
have hard and gluey spots after it has dried
out. Mix one-half cupful of the potato so
prepared with the unbeaten white of one
egg. Add gradually confectioner's sugar
until the whole mass assumes the consist-
ency of bon-bon cream. Several uses for
potato fondant will be described below, but
it may be substituted for French fondant
in any of the confections of which that is a
part.
62 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
Cooked Potato Fondant. With one-half
cupful of potato, prepared as for the un-
cooked fondant, very thoroughly mix two
cupsful of sugar and thin with two-thirds
of a cupful of milk. Place the mixture on
an asbestos mat over the fire and cook until
thick to the sticking point. Pour the
mass on a cold, damp marble and " cut in "
like plain fondant. Knead small quantities
at a time until the whole batch is smooth.
Pack in tins lined with wax paper.
The fondant can be used without addi-
tional sugar and does not stick to the
hands. It is particularly useful as a cov-
ering.
Modeled Candy. Modeled candy is easy
to make, good to look at and good to eat.
When shaped to imitate fruit or vegetables,
it is useful as table decoration, and is al-
ways welcome for children's parties. In-
deed, there is no sort of candy that is surer
of a warm welcome by young or old!
The difficulty has been, however, that
modeling with almond paste requires the
use of ingredients that are very expensive
and very often difficult to obtain. This has
made experimenting in modeling rather ex-
DECORATIVE CANDIES 63
pensive for the unskilled home candy-
maker. Potato fondant, on the other hand,
is inexpensive and so easily obtained that
the amateur need not count the cost of fail-
ures while she experiments. By following
the directions carefully very little practice
in the modeling will give her a facility that
removes her from the class of unskilled
modelers. If she prefers to use almond
paste, the home candy-maker may do her
practicing with potato fondant. Moreover,
many young women have studied clay
modeling and to them the modeling of
candy is indeed simple. While the modeled
candy that is sold in candy stores often
though not always contains harmful
substances, potato fondant is absolutely
wholesome.
Potato fondant shows particular superior-
ity over the almond paste in the making of
small objects and all fine and thin work.
The results are as attractive to the palate
as to the eye, although candy modeled from
potato fondant does not have the peculiar
oily richness of the products fashioned
from almond paste.
For one batch take as much of the un-
64 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
cooked potato fondant as the work in hand
calls for. Into it work all the sugar that it
will take. Stop the kneading just as soon
as the mixture shows a tendency to crumble.
Model it into any form desired. It is best
not to make the pieces too large. The
modeling may be done with the small clay
modeling tool now common in kindergartens
and technical schools, or with a clean
orange stick.
A thin sheet of glass will be found ex-
ceedingly satisfactory upon which to model.
As the glass is thin, intricate flowers of
many petals, for instance, can be slipped
off with little disturbance. Use a thin
knife to loosen and lift only slightly, slip-
ping each model off with as little handling
as possible. Another advantage is that the
glass can easily be washed.
Coloring. The vegetable coloring pastes
which are sold for use in cooking are harm-
less. A set of the small jars ordinarily
sold for ten cents a jar will probably be
enough for any candy that the amateur may
make in one season. The colors generally
in the set are fruit red, leaf green, golden
yellow, caramel, violet, damask, rose,
DECORATIVE CANDIES 65
mandarin, orange blue, salmon and chestnut.
These pastes may be used in three ways.
They may be cooked or worked into a
candy mixture or they may be used very
much the same as water color pigments
and applied with a brush.
In the first method it is well to remember
that the shade should be mixed a little
heavier than desired and must be very
thoroughly mixed if used in fondant or pre-
pared compounds. The rules of color com-
bination prevail here as everywhere. So if
grades of tone or different colors are de-
sired almost any wish may be met by com-
bination of color.
To get just the tone desired, after mix-
ing the colors dissolve a small portion in
water and then dip into this liquid a
lump of sugar. If the tint is not the right
one, it is easily changed.
Any shade of green may be obtained by
mixing blue and yellow with leaf green.
All shades of orange are obtainable from
yellow and red. All shades of violet or
mauve or even purple for deep violets may
be made from red and blue in different pro-
portions.
66 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
If the color in your candy is not clear
and uniform it is because it has not been
thoroughly mixed. To avoid spots it must
be evenly incorporated through the entire
mass. If this does not seem possible with
coloring paste, dissolve in a little warm
water and then add it to the fondant or pre-
pared compound.
In applying with the brush use the wash
methods much as in water color work and
the shading will be much more artistic and
the variety much greater. Apply a medium
shade uniformly and let thoroughly dry and
then shade with light and darker tones.
Do not use much water, as the surface of
the candy does not absorb the water as does
water color paper.
White Daisy. This makes an unusually
pretty modeled piece, as will be seen from
the illustration facing page 138, and from
No. 13 of the frontispiece.
White potato fondant is used for the
petals and candied orange peel for the cen-
ter, and angelique for the stem and leaves.
Flavor the potato fondant with one of
the stronger extracts such as peppermint,
cinnamon or cloves. If desired it may be
DECORATIVE CANDIES 67
used without flavoring, but the more deli-
cate flavors are not so pleasing. Mix
enough sugar with the fondant for it to
mold smoothly and easily and hold its
shape. Upon a clean piece of glass, or oil
cloth, if glass is not easily obtainable,
place a piece of angelique of a size suitable
for the stem. To form the petals roll
pieces of potato fondant between the
fingers. Properly arrange these petals
around the center. Press a piece of candied
orange peel down upon the stem and petals.
This peel gives the yellow center of the
daisy and acts as an additional means for
holding the stem and petals together. Or,
yellow fondant may be substituted. Run
a thin knife under the flower and lift it over
the glass to an oil cloth placed over a
board or to a piece of waxed paper and dry
for twenty-four hours.
Cook to two hundred and twenty degrees,
a syrup made of one cupful of sugar and
one-third of a cupful of water; pour this
into a dish so that the syrup will be about
an inch deep. Add to the daisies such
leaves cut from angelique as may be de-
sired and then dip into this liquid and lift
68 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
upon a wire rack. In the making of this
as in all composite models the crystal syrup
one cupful of sugar and one-third cup-
ful of water cooked to two hundred and
twenty degrees is an essential asset for
gluing purposes. A small bristle brush
is good for applying, but care must be used
as in using glue not to use too much of the
syrup. The syrup, when dry, will hold the
leaves to the stem. If the amateur con-
fectioner is very conscientious, she may im-
prove the looks of the flowers by coloring
the outside edges of the centers lightly
with sugar first a little brown and
then a touch of yellow placed there
with the pointed end of the modeling
stick.
Before the flowers have thoroughly set,
free them from the wires of the rack.
Shortly after the dipping, when as much of
the syrup as will has run off the flowers,
run the fingers along the under side of
the rack springing the wires under each
piece. This method not only frees the
flowers but it rids them of undue accumu-
lations of the syrup. Otherwise, the wires
would dry into the candies, which would
DECORATIVE CANDIES 69
be broken upon their removal. Leave on
the rack until dry.
Yellow Daisy. Yellow daisies may be
made by coloring the white potato fondant
or by making fresh fondant, using the yolk
of the egg in place of the white. The
fondant made of the yolk will not model
quite so readily but coloring is unnecessary.
Form the yellow daisy as the white, but
use a small raisin for the center, instead of
the piece of orange peel. No colored sugar
is necessary. Crystallize as before.
If exceptionally bright and clear colors
are desired, the flowers may be dipped
twice into a thin crystal instead of once
into an ordinary crystal. Use the same
proportions of sugar and water one cup-
ful to one-third cupful cooked to only two
hundred and twenty degrees. Into this dip
the flowers after they are thoroughly dry,
and dry on a rack as before. The next
day dip them again into a crystal of the
same sort. Dry as before. The result will
be glossy flowers, free from crystals, with
particularly beautiful yellows and browns.
Calla Lily. This is particularly suitable
for Easter time. For the stem, use a small
70 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
stick of angelique. Make the center from
yellow fondant. While still moist, dip into
granulated sugar. See the illustration fac-
ing page 138.
If the yellow fondant is not on hand, a
little of the ordinary white may be colored
yellow and used. It is hardly worth while
to make up a batch of the special egg fon-
dant for one set of lilies.
From the white potato fondant, pat out
rather thin pieces, wrap them around the
stem, form the lily and curl the edges and
make the pointed top and the front fold
prominent. If leaves are desired, cut a long
leaf from the angelique, dip the stem end
into thick syrup and fasten to the stem.
To make a perfect union, cover the stem
below the lily with syrup.
If the lilies are to be used for box trim-
mings, do not make the stems very long and
if leaves are used, bring them up well onto
or behind the flower to give added strength
so that the stems will be unlikely to break
at their juncture with the lily.
Red Apples. As dinner favors, red ap-
ples are unusually effective. For the foun-
dation use pulled figs, stuffed with any good
DECORATIVE CANDIES 71
mixture. Nuts and pitted dates may be
used for the filling, but the combination is
a little too heavy. Marshmallows and pecan
meats are preferable. A third possibility
is chopped nuts and figs. Whatever filling
is used, the method of its insertion is the
same. If the figs are dry, steam them thor-
oughly. Make a slit in the side, fill with
the chosen mixture, and pinch together the
edges of the opening.
As the covering for the figs, uncooked
fondant must be used. Cinnamon is a pop-
ular flavoring. Color it with red paste.
At this stage in the process it should not
be made the shade desired for the finished
product, but there should be enough of the
red to overcome the dead white of the fon-
dant. In other words, make the first coat-
ing much lighter than it otherwise would be.
Into the uncooked fondant, sugar must be
worked until modeling is easy.
Encase the stuffed fig in fondant. The
thickness of the coating will depend upon
the size of the fig; the finished product
should be about the size of a real apple.
Model the surface so that it looks as much
like an apple as possible. If it is desired,
72 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
to have the confection all edible, use a piece
of angelique for the stem; a twig from a
vine or bush really looks better, however.
For the blossom end use a clove. If the
general directions given above are followed,
the result will be a surprising naturalness.
Proceeding as directed on page 64, use
the vegetable coloring pastes for the color-
ing. As the red color paste is likely to have
the magenta shade overmuch, the first coat-
ing would better be of orange and the second
of enough dark red to give the true apple
red.
To intensify the color and leave the apple
glossy, brush it with crystal syrup cooked
to two hundred and twenty degrees. The
syrup should be used while yet warm and
should be applied smoothly.
By the use of other colors, other sorts of
apples can be made.
Before being eaten, these apples, like real
apples, should be cut into sections.
See the illustration facing this page, and
No. 24 of the frontispiece.
Single Roses. They may be pink, red,
yellow or white. The process in each case
is the same except for the coloring and the
SJ
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to
DECORATIVE CANDIES 73
flavoring 1 . Take as much fondant as is
needed for roses of one color and as the
base, use uncooked potato fondant. Di-
vide it into three lots and color with
paste the shade desired the first so very
faintly that its tint is just off the white, the
second a little deeper and the third deeper
still. Always remember that immersion in
hot syrup deepens the color. Remember,
too, that the three lots of different shades
are for roses of one color only.
For red roses, use cinnamon flavor and
red coloring. For yellow roses, use clove
as flavoring and yellow as coloring. Yellow
roses are shown as Nos. 3 and 26 of the
frontispiece. Be very careful not to use
too much color. For white roses, use the
plain fondant, but after the rose has dried
a touch of green must be added to give
depth and character.
For pink roses, use rose water as flavor
and pink as coloring.
Whatever the color of the rose, form five
petals, curling the edges to imitate those of
the natural rose, and using different shades
for different petals so that the rose will
have natural variety of color. At the center
74 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
use a small piece of angelique; a touch of
darker green coloring to the center of the
angelique gives the rose greater verisimili-
tude. It is well to model them upon a sheet
of glass and when completed lift on to a
waxed paper to dry.
If the rose is a white one, let it be re-
membered that it must be shaded with
light green.
When the flowers are dry dip them into
a crystal, cooked to two hundred and twen-
ty-five degrees. Use brown and yellow
sugar to imitate the pollen around the green
centers. The pointed end of the wooden
tool will be useful in placing these colored
sugars. They must be made to stand out
clearly. If too much syrup has collected
around the center, be sure to push it out
with the blunt end of the tool before try-
ing to put the sugar in place.
After the roses have dried, they are ready
to look at and eat.
Rose Buds. From potato fondant, col-
ored as desired, model several small petals.
Cut a piece of angelique to represent the
stem and properly arrange the petals around
one end of it and press them on. The leaves
DECORATIVE CANDIES 75
and thorns are to be made from angelique
and attached by pressing them to the stem
using the crystal, prepared for the dipping,
as glue.
The calyx, made from angelique, may be
also so attached. When the buds have
dried dip them into a crystal cooked to two
hundred and twenty-five degrees. Dry on
racks. The crystal will make stronger the
union of petals, leaves, thorns and stem.
New Potato. A particularly appropriate
form in which to model the potato fondant
is that of the new potato. Work the proper
sized piece of fondant into as close an imi-
tation as possible of the new potato.
As this new potato has perhaps more of
the fondant than many people will wish to
eat at one time, several partial substitutions
are possible. That statement, by the way,
is no reflection upon the fondant, for any
piece of candy, no matter how good, of the
size of this is likely to be rather too much
to be eaten at one time if of one flavor.
Marshmallows, pitted dates with nut meats,
pulled figs closely rolled, or English walnut
meats are some of the things that may well
be used as centers. Whatever is used
76 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
should be rolled in enough of the fondant
to make pieces of the desired size and form
and then immediately rolled in dry cocoa.
The result will be strikingly convincing
and good to eat.
Pea Pod. From fondant colored green,
a pea pod may be modeled, split, and
the peas modeled and placed within.
When the forms are dry, dip them in a
crystal made by boiling one cupful of
sugar and one-third cupful of water to two
hundred and twenty degrees. Use care that
the syrup does not settle between the peas.
Granulated sugar dusted over the pod gives
a beautiful soft color and surface.
Snow Balls. All modeled candies are a
delight to children, but snow balls always
meet with a particular favor.
Stuffed figs, prepared as directed for red
apples on page 70, form the basis for them.
To keep the color of the figs from showing
through, cover them with the uncooked
fondant and roll in the hands until perfect
balls are formed. After the balls have
dried two or more hours, roll them again
in this coating of uncooked fondant to
which has been added a small quantity
DECORATIVE CANDIES 77
of blue coloring. This is to insure the balls
being snow white. Brush these balls with
the unbeaten white of an egg and roll in
equal parts of crystal and granulated sugar.
Grapes. The confection described below
and pictured opposite page 72 is good to
look at, good to eat, and comparatively easy
to make. It should be borne in mind, by
the way, that the directions for candies
often sound more difficult than the actual
process.
As the basis for the grapes, take smooth
almonds, not blanched. Into the smaller
end of each one insert nickeled wire, push-
ing it well into the nut. Then cover the
nuts with potato fondant. Work them
with the fingers until they assume the
forms of single grapes. Dry in a corn-
starch bed. When the forms are dry,
brush all the corn starch off. The grapes
so formed should be colored a medium
shade by the use of vegetable coloring
pastes to resemble catawba or purple
grapes. Because of the opaqueness of the
grapes, they cannot be made to imitate
closely the color of green grapes, but if the
confectioner has an unusual fondness for
78 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
green grapes, and is not over particular,
there is no reason why she should not at-
tempt them.
After coloring, dry the grapes thoroughly
on a wire screen, finish them in thin crys-
tal, which has been colored somewhat
lighter than the shade the finished grapes
are expected to assume. In order to leave
the confection with a glossy surface, it
is possible to add to the crystal a very
small quantity of gum Arabic.
After the crystal is thoroughly dry, the
wires should be wound with raffia of the
leaf green shade, and, by twisting the
wires together, the single grapes formed
into bunches of the size desired. If the
confectioner wishes large bunches, it is
well to wind the wires onto a tree twig, for
the sake of the additional firmness. It
should be remembered that the large
bunches are heavy. The use of the twig
is also recommended for the natural ap-
pearance it gives to the finished bunch.
Brush the stems with a thin syrup. The
loose ends of the raffia may be disposed of
and the appearance of the confection made
more natural by dampening them with the
DECORATIVE CANDIES 79
syrup and winding them around any round
object of about the size of a lead pencil.
The ends of the raffia, so treated, will re-
semble tendrils.
In taste, the grapes are much like the
usual hard-covered almonds.
Other Possibilities. If the candy-maker
has ambition and imagination, she will re-
gard the foregoing objects as merely sug-
gestive; she will work out for herself other
objects of equal interest. The following
suggestions as to coloring, she will find
valuable no matter how much she may
want to create for herself. For pears, use
yellow with red; for peaches, yellow with
a very little red ; for pumpkins, light orange
with touches of green; for radishes, light
red, with green for the stem ; for carrots, or-
ange with a slight touch of green ; for plums,
the so-called violet with a very little red;
for strawberries, red, touched with yellow
to simulate the seeds and so on indef-
initely.
IX
POTATO CARAMEL
Three receipts are given for potato cara-
mels and one for opera caramels. It
should be noted that opera caramels and
the ordinary potato caramels are as dif-
ferent as fudge and taffy. The first of the
receipts for potato caramels is by all odds
the best, but it means much hard work.
The second is much easier, but the re-
sults, while good to eat, are not so pleas-
ing in looks or consistency. The third is a
compromise. In none, owing to the very
slow cooking, is it possible to use a ther-
mometer to advantage. The old tests, sup-
plemented by a sort of intuition that old
candy-makers call " caramel sense " will
have to be used to determine when cookings
are completed. But with good fortune and
a little experimenting, the amateur con-
fectioner's judgment will soon become ac-
curate.
80
POTATO CARAMEL 81
Potato Caramel No. i.
Stir well one pound of sugar, one cupful
of milk, one cupful of Irish potato boiled
and sifted as directed before two table-
spoonfuls of butter and one-half teaspoon-
ful of salt. Boil until thick, and thin with
one-half cupful of milk, and again cook un-
til thick; again thin with one-half cupful of
milk and cook until the mass is of caramel
consistency, tested in cold water. Stir as
little as possible, but be careful that the
mass does not stick to the bottom of the
kettle. Pour on a well oiled marble between
candy bars. Dry two days, cut in strips and
dry again before finally cutting in squares.
Place them in a cold place for several hours
and then wrap them in parchment paper.
They keep well.
This is the kind of potato caramel that is
especially good for chocolate coating, al-
though all of the potato caramels can be
chocolate coated. Make the caramels as
above and allow them to dry in the open
air for several hours and then cover with
chocolate.
The process is fully as laborious as it
sounds, but the results are more than worth
82 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
the trouble. The repeated cookings give
the characteristic caramel taste and color.
The following receipt, however, means less
work.
Potato Caramel No. 2
Boil together one cupful of granulated
sugar, one cupful of coffee A sugar, one-
half cupful of Irish potato treated as be-
fore one tablespoonful of butter, one cup-
ful of milk, caramel coloring. Stir contin-
ually until the mass forms a soft ball in cold
water. Then pour it onto a well oiled
marble between candy bars.
Potato Caramel No. 3.
Boil one pound of brown sugar, one cup-
ful of milk, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, and one-quarter cupful of Irish po-
tato prepared as before until a bit
dipped from the mass will form a firm ball
in cold water. Stir as little as possible.
Pour on an oiled marble between candy
bars. The result is more like fudge but is
cooked to dryness without being grained
by beating.
Opera Caramel
To two cupsful of sugar, one cupful Irish
potato boiled, drained and forced through
POTATO CARAMEL 83
a fine sieve, add one tablespoonful of
butter and thin with one-half cupful of milk.
Cook until thick; remove from the fire.
Put in one-half cupful of milk again. Cook
until thick, remove from the fire and add
one-half cupful of milk. Return the pan
to the fire again. This is the last time. It
is wise to place an asbestos mat under the
saucepan. Cook until very thick until
a soft ball can be formed in cold water.
After the mass has been removed from the
fire, add one cupful of broken walnut meats,
and one cupful of bon-bon cream, broken in
small pieces so that it will be distributed
quickly through the mass without much
stirring and pour the mixture between
candy-bars on an oiled marble. When cold
cut it into squares ; for home use it will not
need wrapping.
As with potato caramel No. i, this con-
fection is most pleasantly susceptible to
chocolate coating. Allow it to dry in the
open air for several hours and then cover
with chocolate as usual.
Broken nut meats can be added to any of
the caramel recipes above.
POTATO MISCELLANEOUS
Potatoes are probably the most useful
vegetable known to the maker of vegetable
confectionery. As has been explained in
the preceding chapters, they are the basis
of potato fondant and potato paste, both
of which are basic mixtures.
The usefulness of the potato does not
end with decorative candy. In the form
both of paste and fondant and prepared in
other ways, it is responsible for several
pleasing new confections.
Mocha Walnuts. To the yolk of one
egg beaten to a cream, add one-half cupful
of Irish potato boiled, drained, and forced
through a sieve as described before and
one teaspoonful of coffee extract. Gradu-
ally stir in confectioner's sugar until the
mass can be made into soft balls. Flatten
these balls, press on walnut meats, and
spread to dry. If desired for packing, dip
84
POTATO MISCELLANEOUS 85
them into a crystal cooked to two hundred
and twenty degrees. To insure a good sur-
face and keep the cream from drying out,
it may be well to dip the candy again after
letting it dry a day.
See No. 8 in the frontispiece.
Pecan Creams. The process for making
them is the same as that described for mak-
ing mocha walnuts except that lemon or
vanilla extract is used instead of coffee,
see No. 14 of the frontispiece and
pecan meats, instead of walnut meats. In-
deed, the imaginative candy-cook will be
able to invent for herself several other new
confections built upon this same principle.
Raisin Creams. To make them, form
potato fondant directions for which are
given on page 61 into balls and place
a seeded raisin on each side. Cook a crystal
syrup to two hundred and twenty-eight de-
grees and keep it warm by the use of the
steam bath. Into it, dip, one by one, the
fondant balls, prepared as above. Dry on
racks. If desired, ordinary bonbon cream,
flavored and colored to suit the cook's
fancy, may be substituted for the potato
86 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
fondant. A satisfactory variety is given
these raisin creams by pulling the raisin
entirely over a pecan meat before at-
taching to the cream. This confection
is rich in flavor and most attractive in
shape.
Peppermint Chocolates. Potato paste
described on page 52 is the basis for
them. Make a softer paste by using less
sugar, work in peppermint to taste, form it
into balls, flatten and dry for a couple of
hours. Then dip them in chocolate as
usual. After the finished candy has stood
for a time long enough for the chocolate
covering to have mellowed the center, the
result will be a cream of excellent flavor
and a texture unusually attractive because
of its grain. The difference between this
and the ordinary peppermint chocolate is
so great that they really are not the same
confection.
Celtic Almonds. This attractive confec-
tion is in reality a cream, but a cream so
different from the ordinary nut cream that
it seems to fall into a separate class. In
place of the usual richness, there is here a
delicacy of flavor and clearness of outline
POTATO MISCELLANEOUS 87
that is a distinctly enjoyable addition to
confectionery.
Blanch almonds, split them, and dry in
a soft cloth. Color potato fondant pink
and flavor it with rose. Roll fondant so
prepared into small balls, and place upon
each side of each a split almond. Each
piece should then be made to imitate as
clearly as possible the shape of the real
almond. The ideal result is a confection
that is very little larger than the real al-
mond with a thin layer of cream between
translucent nut meats. After a little ex-
perimentation, persuasive ringers can ac-
complish this result. When fashioned, dip
the candies into a crystal syrup cooked to
two hundred and twenty-five degrees and
roll in granulated sugar.
Walnuts or pecans can be treated in the
same way with white or colored fondant.
The result, however, will not be so dis-
tinctively dainty and will be little improve-
ment upon the mocha walnuts and pecan
creams described above.
Chocolate Bars. As the basis, take
cooked potato fondant which has been well
kneaded. Form it into a sheet about one-
88 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
quarter of an inch thick. Cut therefrom
bars an inch and a quarter long by a quarter
of an inch wide. Dip them in chocolate
and let them dry.
A pleasing variation is made from the
same base cooked potato fondant. Knead
into it melted chocolate. A portion of the
resulting mass may be formed into balls
and the rest rolled into a long piece as
slender as a pipe stem. This small cylinder
should be cut into two inch lengths and the
ends pointed. Another method is to make
small balls and give these a very thin coat-
ing of white fondant. In any case, dry on
a corn starch bed and coat with chocolate.
Vegetable Cream. Vegetable cream is
another base with which much can be done
in vegetable candy-making. In itself, it is
good to eat and can be made to take many
different and useful forms. To make it,
mix two cupsful of sugar, one cupful of
Irish potato boiled or steamed, drained
and forced through a sieve one teaspoon-
ful of butter, and one-half teaspoonful of
salt. Boil to two hundred and twenty-
eight degrees. Have ready one-fourth
cupful each of preserved garden " ginger "
and spiced beets drained from their syrup;
POTATO MISCELLANEOUS 89
cut very fine, and spread upon a marble
slab. Over beet and " ginger " pour the
cooked mixture, and " cut in " as for fon-
dant. " Gingers " are described upon page
101 and spiced beets upon page in.
Below, there are suggested five ways of
using the cream. Many others, however,
will come to the mind of the experienced
candy-cook.
Vegetable cream may be formed into
balls and rolled in granulated sugar. The
balls so prepared may then be rolled in
shredded cocoanut, cut fine, or the balls
without the sugar may be covered with the
cocoanut.
Another possibility is to dip the balls
into chocolate. Nuts may be added, either
by rolling the balls in the meats cut into
little pieces, or by pressing the meats into
the balls and treating with the crystal
syrup, or by using a drop or two of the
crystal to glue the nut meat to the ball
and then coating. Moreover, the balls may
be used in their simple form without any
covering at all.
No matter what is done with them, of
course, they must be dried off before
serving.
XI
SWEET POTATO
Sweet potatoes used as the basis for
candy-making should be baked. Boiled
sweet potato changes color during the suc-
ceeding processes and retains an amount
of water that is likely to cause trouble.
After baking, the potato should be forced
through a fine sieve. Make sure that the
sifting process is done so thoroughly that
all fiber is removed.
Sweet Potato Patties. For the patties,
boil until very thick one pound of granula-
ted sugar, one cupful of sweet potato pre-
pared as above; one-half cupful of desic-
cated cocoanut, and one-half cupful of
water. When the mixture has cooked, add
one-half cupful of bon-bon cream, cut into
small pieces. Stir thoroughly. As the
mass begins to set, drop it quickly on waxed
paper in small drops. Act promptly, for
the mass sets quickly. The drops will not
be smooth.
90
SWEET POTATO 91
To improve the looks of these patties,
they may be dipped in a crystal syrup,
cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees ;
and then dusted with granulated sugar. If
they are not wanted immediately, they may
be packed for any length of time not ex-
ceeding six weeks provided they have been
finished with the crystal and granulated
sugar.
Sweet Potato Knots. Cook until very
thick equal quantities of granulated sugar
and sweet potato prepared as before
and add a few drops of oil of cinnamon. If
another color is preferred to the natural
amber, add coloring paste to suit. Im-
mediately spread the mixture over a tin
sheet upon which has been sifted confec-
tioner's sugar. The tin should be of such
a size that the mass will be about one-
quarter of an inch thick. When it has dried
so that it will not stick to the fingers, with
a long, thin knife, cut narrow ribbon-like
strips about six inches long. Fashion them
into bowknots. Be sure that there is not
undue thickness at the center. The tools
described in the second chapter particu-
larly page 16 will be useful as will also
92 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
be the glass sheet. If the candy is moist,
dip the hands into XXXX sugar. Dry on
oilcloth or waxed paper. When firm, dip
into a crystal which has been cooked to two
hundred and twenty-five degrees and al-
lowed to stand for five minutes. Dry on
a screen.
Their attractiveness can be seen at a
glance at the foreground of the illustration
opposite page 138, and by looking at No. 18
in the frontispiece.
Sweet Potato Pastilles. They are made
from the same mixture as are the knots.
While the mixture is still hot, drop it in
small drops upon a cold bare marble, and
dust them with granulated sugar. When
they have dried for several hours, or, if
possible, over night, lift with a thin knife,
place two drops together by their bases,
dredge again with granulated sugar to
cover the edges, and dry.
XII
PARSNIP
Crystallization forms the basis of candy-
making with parsnips. By means of a
modification of the old fashioned French
hand method, it is possible to make a con-
fection that is good in itself, useful as the
basis for other confections, and of unusually
long keeping qualities. Parsnip candy,
though the invention of to-day, has a pleas-
ing old fashioned taste and appearance.
Candied Parsnips. In method of prepara-
tion and keeping qualities, they resemble
the candied flag root of our grandmothers.
They are useful to trim a box of candy.
Peel the parsnips and leave them in cold
water for two or three hours. Cut cross-
wise into very thin slices, drop the slices
into boiling water, and let them boil five
minutes. After they have thoroughly
drained, put them into a syrup made by boil-
ing together one part of water and three
parts of granulated sugar. Make sure that
the syrup really is a syrup that the sugar
93
94 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
and water have thoroughly united. Add
the parsnips and boil for ten minutes.
Next comes the use of a novel modifica-
tion of hand crystallization a process that
the amateur candy-maker may well afford
to make herself master of, because it is use-
ful for many confections. Obtain a pan
with sloping sides into which the drying
rack will drop half way. As the pan must
be used for candy-making and nothing else
and as the greatest strength is not neces-
sary, a suitable dish can probably be ob-
tained from a ten-cent store. Stir carefully
with a wooden paddle in order to make sure
that all the pieces are separated and that
the hot syrup comes into contact with all
the surfaces of the confections.
Pour the hot mass over the rack in po-
sition in the pan and immediately put a
board over the pan. Make sure that the
vegetable is evenly distributed. The wood
absorbs the moisture while a tin cover would
make trouble by causing the steam to con-
dense and drop back onto the candy. Leave
the pan undisturbed for twenty-four hours.
Then lift the rack out, pour the syrup into
the kettle and cook to two hundred and
PARSNIP 95
twenty degrees. Return the vegetable to
the syrup and stir carefully; each piece
must be immersed. The small pieces of
candy will be heated through in so very
short a time that it is necessary only to
make sure that each piece has been thor-
oughly immersed in the hot syrup. Make
sure that the rack is clean and free from
particles of the syrup. Thereupon, again
pour it over the rack arranged in the
pan as before. Repeat the process four
times, each time cooking the syrup two
degrees hotter. The result is a slow crys-
tallization which covers the candy so
that it is perfectly preserved and very
good to taste and look upon. Although
the work must be distributed over six days,
only a very few minutes are required ex-
cept upon the first day.
Parsnip Boutonniere. The candied pars-
nip forms the basis of one of the most dec-
orative of all boutonnieres. For each of
them have ready, besides a supply of the
parsnips, candied as above, artificial fern,
sometimes sold under the name " imitation
air plant/* a lace mat, a number twenty-two
wire, and one yard of ribbon one-half inch
96 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
wide, the preferred color. See the illustra-
tion opposite page 72.
Mix one cupful of sugar and one-third
cupful of water, and color the same as the
ribbon. Cook the syrup thus made to two
hundred and twenty-five degrees. Into
this hot syrup drop the crystallized pars-
nips, and allow them to remain a few min-
utes. After they have become thoroughly
and evenly colored, pour them upon a wire
screen. After they have dried, attach to
about two dozen of them pieces of wire
about six inches long. It is well to place a
drop of thick syrup at the point at which
the wire enters the candy.
Cut the ferns into lengths of from two to
four inches. Mix the wired candies through
the bunch of ferns, occasionally twisting
a strand of fern around the wires so that
all wires will be hidden. Slip the lace mat
up over the wires and the ends of the ferns,
wrap wires with tissue paper and cover with
tinsel foil, either silver or gilt, and tie the
center of the ribbon around the stem di-
rectly under the mat and form a rosette.
About five inches from the point tie the
ends together in a bow knot.
XIII
CARROT
To the art of candy-making, the use of
carrots has brought a harmless new color.
Formerly the peculiar yellowish orange of
the carrot candy was a shade that the con-
fectioner, amateur or otherwise, could not
hope to attain without the use of artificial
substances.
The statement that carrots are valuable
in candy-making for their color must not
be thought to mean that the confections
made from them are not very good to eat.
Quite the contrary; carrot candies have a
very pleasing flavor.
Carrot Rings. To make them, peel me-
dium sized carrots and let them stand sev-
eral hours in cold water. Cut crosswise
into slices about one-quarter of an inch
thick and with a small round cutter or sharp
knife remove the center pith. Drop the
rings into boiling water and cook until ten-
der. After they have thoroughly drained,
97
98 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
drop them into a syrup made by boiling one
part of water and three parts of sugar to
two hundred and twenty degrees. Boil
until the rings become translucent prob-
ably about ten minutes. Dry on a v wire
rack, taking care that the rings do not touch.
The next day, heat the syrup to two hun-
dred and twenty-five degrees and again dip
the rings and dry as before. If desired,
when they are dry, fill the centers with bon-
bon cream or marzipan. When this center
has become firm, dip the candy into a syrup
cooked to two hundred and twenty-eight de-
grees. Even if the centers are not filled, it
is well to make this third dipping; the ther-
mometer should, however, register two
hundred and thirty degrees instead of
merely two hundred and twenty-eight.
Crystallized Carrot. For this confection,
proceed exactly as directed in the previous
chapter for crystallized parsnip, substituting,
of course, the carrots for the parsnips.
Carrot Roll. From ordinary cream fon-
dant or from cooked potato fondant, make
a thin strip about an inch wide. Place upon
it small pieces of the crystallized carrot, pre-
pared as directed above, and roll so that
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CARROT 99
there is formed a long tube filled with the
candied vegetable. Cut this tube into pieces
as long as desired half an inch is about
right and after drying until quite firm
dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred
and twenty-five degrees. If the pieces are
not firm when they go into the crystal bath
they are likely to soften and lose their
roundness.
"Gingers." Preserved ginger is a delight-
ful confection, but it is expensive, and can-
not be obtained in every town. There is a
substitute that when properly prepared has
an added charm, because it is the product
of the candy-maker's own art. Note the
box at the extreme right of the illustration
facing page 98.
Garden "Ginger." Take white, carrots,
preferably of fine texture, boil them five or
ten minutes, scrape off the outside layer, cut
the carrots in quarters, lengthwise, and re-
move the cores. Then remove the point
and cut the remainder into slices about the
size of the pieces of preserved ginger. Boil
the pieces in fresh water until they are ten-
der, but change the water frequently to de-
stroy all vegetable taste and odor. Yellow
ioo CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
carrots can be used, but in that case the re-
sulting confection will differ from preserved
ginger in color, although not in taste.
To every pound of cooked carrots add two
pounds of granulated sugar, one quart of
water, two ounces of green ginger root
shaved fine, and the juice and grated rind of
one lemon. Boil the mixture for fifteen
minutes, and repeat the boiling the next day,
and surely once or twice more; at any
rate, until the syrup is very thick. If the
boiling was continuous for five hours, the
moisture would be eliminated, but the tex-
ture of the " ginger " would probably be
ruined. The short cookings give the carrots
the opportunity to absorb the cooling syrup
slowly. If less water were used, in order
to reduce the time of cooking, the carrot
would harden too rapidly to take up enough
syrup.
If the " ginger " is not wanted for im-
mediate use, it can be stored in the syrup.
The confection may be finished at once and
packed dry, but the better method of preser-
vation is in the liquid. The open season for
carrots is very short and for the " ginger "
is the whole year long!
CARROT 101
To finish, heat the syrup thoroughly and
then drain. After the liquid has stopped
dripping, roll each piece of the " ginger " in
granulated sugar, place the pieces on a wire
tray, making sure that no two pieces touch,
and put the tray in an oven very slightly
heated. When the confection is dry it is
done.
Variations. Three variations are pos-
sible. If a sharper taste is desired, add a
few grains of Cayenne pepper the last time
the syrup is boiled. If a moister product is
preferred, omit the lemon-juice and rind.
If green ginger cannot be obtained, substi-
tute one ounce of ground ginger. Ground
ginger, however, must be boiled in a fine
cloth bag; otherwise particles of it will ad-
here to the pieces of carrot.
XIV
BEAN
Candied Green Beans. Select well filled
pods of green beans; wash, and then cook
until tender in water to which a little soda
has been added. Drain.
To a pound of beans so cooked, add one
gill of water, one pound of sugar, and one
tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil this mix-
ture for fifteen minutes, and let it remain
in the syrup over night. The next day,
drain the syrup from the beans and cook it
to two hundred and twenty degrees. Place
the beans upon the screen of the crystal
pan, pour the syrup over them, and cover
with a board. Repeat the process next
day.
When wanted for use, drain the syrup
from the beans. Cook the syrup to two
hundred and thirty degrees, return the
beans to it, allowing them thoroughly to
heat through. Turn them onto the screen,
making sure that they are well spread.
102
BEANS 103
Cover with a board, and, after a few hours,
spread singly.
Bean Taffy. Bean taffy easily takes
first rank among all taffies vegetable or
otherwise. The taste is good beyond
words, and the consistency is pleasingly
" chewy " without being tenacious to the
point of teeth pulling!
Lima beans are the best to use as the
basis because the skins can easily be re-
moved, but ordinary dried beans may be
substituted if care is taken. Cover the
beans with cold water, let them stand over
night, and the next morning boil them un-
til soft, and force through a fine sieve to
remove all the skins.
Boil together two cupsful of granulated
sugar, one-half cupful of water, a table-
spoonful of butter, and one-half cupful of
the beans, prepared as above. After the
mixture has boiled thoroughly, add one
cupful of milk. Add the cupful of milk,
one-third at a time. Stir the mixture and
let it boil a few minutes after each addition
of milk. When the thermometer registers
two hundred and forty-two degrees, pour
the mass onto an oiled marble between
104 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
oiled candy bars so that it will set about
one-quarter inch thick. As with ordinary
taffy, cut into pieces of the desired size.
Nut Bean Taffy. Cut Brazil nuts cross-
wise into shavings about one-sixteenth of
an inch in thickness about the thickness
of the pieces of shaved cocoanut. Spread
as many of them as are desired upon oiled
marble between oiled candy bars. Pour
over the nuts the mass described above.
Treat as before.
XV
BEET
To the candy cook, the discovery that
beets make good confectionery brings a new
flavor and a new color one as desirable as
the other, and that is saying a great deal!
In candy made from beets there are several
new shades of red which previously could
not be obtained even by the use of artificial
coloring matter.
In case the beet color is desired for can-
dies made upon other bases, it can be had
very easily. The beets should be boiled
until the water is colored red. Then this
water may be substituted for the water
called for by other receipts in vegetable
candy-making. The beet color will be given
but the beet flavor will not be. The result
is a pleasing color without the use of any-
thing that is artificial.
Frosted Beet Slice. Boil to two hun-
dred and thirty-two degrees two cupsful of
sugar, one tablespoonful of grated raw beet,
105
io6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
one-third cupful of water, one teaspoonful
of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of butter.
Remove from the fire and stir in one-half
cupful of broken walnut meats. When the
mass begins to thicken, pour it between
oiled candy bars on an oiled marble so that
it will form a layer three-quarters of an inch
thick. When cool, cover one-quarter of an
inch thick with a frosting made of one cup-
ful of sugar, one-quarter cupful of water,
and one-eighth teaspoonful of cream of tar-
tar, boiled without stirring to two hundred
and thirty-four degrees and then flavored
with a few drops of vanilla and lemon and
beaten until creamy. When set, a quick
process cut the mass into pieces about
one-half inch wide and one and one-half
inches long. If the confection is to be
kept, crystallize at two hundred and
twenty-five degrees. The looks are im-
proved if the confection is then rolled in
granulated sugar. Dry on a wire screen
for twelve hours or so.
Note No. 10 in the frontispiece.
Beet Puffs. Cut one medium sized beet
into thin slices, cover with one-half cupful
of cold water and cook in a double boiler
BEET 107
until soft. Drain, and to the liquid thus ob-
tained add one pound of sugar; boil two or
three minutes. To this mixture, add one-
half cupful of the cooked beet cut into
fine pieces. Cook this mass to two hun-
dred and forty degrees. Have ready the
whites of two eggs, salted and beaten to a
stiff froth. Remove from the fire and after
the steam has ceased to rise, beat the mix-
ture into the whites of the two eggs.
Using a pecan meat to push with, drop this
mixture from a teaspoon in small puffs on
waxed paper, leaving the pecan imbedded.
This mixture is very foamy and adhesive,
sets very quickly and must be handled rap-
idly. These directions will yield about five
dozen puffs.
A few drops of rose water may be added
if a more delicate flavor is desired.
Beet Cubes with Variations. Beet cubes
possess remarkable color value. To make
them, boil to two hundred and thirty de-
grees two cupsful of granulated sugar, one
tablespoonful grated raw beet, one-half cup-
ful of water, one teaspoonful of butter and
one cupful of shredded cocoanut. Pour the
io8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
mass between oiled candy bars upon
greased marble so that it will form half an
inch deep.
Four things may be done with this mass.
It may be cut into cubes. If wanted for
future use it may be dipped into a crystal
syrup to hold the moisture. Children will
like it poured into oiled cup-cake tins or any
other mold. If molded, care should be
taken that the finished confection is not
more than half an inch thick. If the cubes
are dipped into bon-bon cream they will
be of unusual beauty because of the pink
showing through the fondant casing.
Crystallized Beets. Crystallized beets
are fully as pretty as candied rose leaves.
They are particularly valuable in trimming
boxes of candy especially " all vegeta-
ble " boxes.
To crystallize beets, use the process de-
scribed for parsnips in Chapter XII. After
the last crystallization, however, the pieces
should be separated, dusted with granulated
sugar, and dried on a wire screen, instead of
being left on the rack.
If it is desired to increase the illusion,
add rose water to the syrup.
BEET 109
Spiced Beets. Boil beets and cut them
into cubes of about one inch. Mix one cup-
ful of sugar and one-third cupful of vinegar.
Spice highly. Cinnamon, cloves and all-
spice should be used, and whatever else the
fancy of the candy-maker dictates. Boil the
mixture until it syrups, add the beets and
cook ten minutes. Remove the mass from
the fire, cover and set away for two days.
Drain the syrup from the beets, boil the
syrup to two hundred and twenty degrees
and pour it boiling over the beets. Cover
the mass and set it aside. Repeat this
process on several successive days.
Spiced Beet Bon-bons. Take spiced
beets and drain off the syrup. Cook the
syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees.
With a wooden paddle beat it at one side of
the saucepan until it begins to look creamy.
Thereupon, add the beets, stir the whole
mass briskly and turn it onto a sieve. Dry
the cubes on a rack, roll each in fondant,
dry for two hours and dip in bon-bon cream.
XVI
TOMATO
Tomato Marshmallow. Very often
marshmallows even the sort sold in
candy stores of the better class con-
tain gums and glucose which the amateur
would find difficult to handle even if she
felt no scruple in their use. Tomato
marshmallows, however, are pleasing in
consistency and more attractive in flavor
than the old-fashioned kind. Moreover,
they are easy to make, although it is
necessary to give more detailed directions
than would be required in the description
of the process with which the home candy-
maker is more familiar.
Dissolve three tablespoonsful of granu-
lated gelatine in one cupful of hot water.
Cook and strain ripe tomatoes; to one-half
cupful of the strained tomato add one cup-
ful of sugar and cook the mixture to two
hundred and thirty degrees. Have ready
in a deep saucepan, three cupsful of sugar,
no
TOMATO in
moistened with one-quarter of a cupful of
water. Upon it strain the tomato syrup,
stir well, thin with a cupful of water,
and cook to two hundred and forty de-
grees. Set the mass off the fire, add
the gelatine water previously prepared,
mix thoroughly and strain into a fresh
bowl. Have ready the whites of two eggs
beaten to a stiff froth. With a French egg
whip or a common wooden paddle, beat the
cooked mass hard until it is white and
does not separate. When it becomes foamy
and spongy, gradually add the beaten egg
whites and keep beating until the whole
mass is very stringy and will almost set
on the paddle. Sift upon the mass one
tablespoonful of corn starch; stir well.
Pour the candy between candy bars on a
marble well dusted with XXXX sugar.
Leave ten or twelve hours, cut into squares,
roll well in XXXX sugar, spread the other
side up and dry off. Instead of pouring the
marshmallows between candy bars, they
may be molded in corn starch. Store in a
tight box.
The receipt sounds more laborious than
is the process. The repeated boilings are
ii2 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
necessary to perfect the product. The
acid of the tomato destroys the granularity
of the sugar. Straining the mixture elimi-
nates the particles of tomato which, not
having blended thoroughly into the syrup,
would cause trouble by sticking to the
bottom of the saucepan in the later higher
cooking.
Chocolate Marshmallow. Marshmallows,
made as directed above, are the basis for
them. Dip them in coating chocolate; the
method of treatment is the same as with
ordinary chocolate marshmallows.
Vegetable Nougatine. Mix two cupsful
of sugar, one-third of a cupful of corn
syrup, one-third of a cupful of strained
honey, and one-third of a cupful of strained
cooked tomato; boil the mixture to two
hundred and sixty degrees. Beat three
egg whites very stiff, and remove the mix-
ture from the fire. Until about one-half of
a cupful has been so used, dip a spoonful at
a time on the eggs, beating the mass con-
tinuously. From this point on, use an as-
bestos mat under the pan. Return the re-
mainder to the stove. This time cook the
mass to two hundred and ninety degrees.
TOMATO 113
Pour it over the eggs, again beating con-
tinuously. Thereupon, set the mixture on
the stove once more. The mass should
cook slowly until, when tried in water, a
sample of it has the consistency that is de-
sired in the finished candy. Some people
like the vegetable nougatine soft, others
like it " chewy," and still others want it
to be hard. Stir in one-half of a cup-
ful of almonds, blanched and cut into
small pieces, and one-half of a cupful of
garden " ginger " also cut into small
pieces.
Line a shallow straight-sided pan with
wafer paper. Pour in the candy, and press
a sheet of wafer paper onto the top. Let
the mixture stand over night. The next
morning remove the candy, paper and all,
from the pan and place it on a marble slab,
slightly oiled. With a long, thin knife,
cut it into strips one and one-half inches
long, and three-eighths of an inch thick
and deep. Do not attempt to cut directly
through the candy, but use a sawing mo-
tion. Immediately wrap the pieces in
parchment paper.
Wafer paper, be it noted, is made from
114 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
rice. It is easily soluble in water and may
be eaten with impunity.
Chocolate Nougatines. If the nougatines
are desired for chocolate coating, the process
is very simple. Instead of pouring the
mass into the pan, lined with wafer paper,
it should be poured onto a greased marble,
between greased candy bars, so placed that
the mixture will completely fill the rec-
tangle formed by the bars. As before, cover
with wafer paper. Over the paper place
a board, kept in place with a heavy
weight, in order to make the mixture more
solid. As before, cut into small pieces.
The process of coating is the ordinary
one.
Nut Burs. Cook one-half of a cupful of
strained tomato and one cupful of granu-
lated sugar to two hundred and thirty de-
grees; add two cupsful of sugar, one-half
of a cupful of water, and two teaspoonsful
of butter. Let this mixture boil up once
only; then strain. Place it in a three
quart saucepan, return it to the fire, and
cook to two hundred and forty-two de-
grees.
Take one-quarter of a cupful each of
TOMATO 115
preserved garden " ginger " and spiced beet,
drain the syrup off and cut very fine ; spread
upon a wet marble.
Over beet and " ginger " pour the cooked
mixture, and "cut in." Form the mass into
balls, flatten them slightly, roll in con-
fectioner's sugar, and let dry.
With a sharp knife, cut on a board
blanched almonds, pecan, and pistachio nut
meats into small, pointed pieces.
This is the method of using the nuts:
Have the nuts spread thinly upon a plate.
Melt coating chocolate, and let it stand
until cool. The principles laid down in
Chapter VI, "Chocolate Coating," should
be followed. Into the chocolate dip the
dried balls and roll them over the nuts.
Make sure that the nuts adhere to all parts.
Dry upon racks.
The brown, green and cream of the al-
monds, pecans and pistachios against the
dark chocolate background make a very
attractive color scheme. The nuts may be
used alone, however, or different combina-
tions may be substituted. Other nuts may
be drafted into effective service. If peanuts
are used, be it noted, they must not be
ii6 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
combined with any other nuts; the peanut
flavor is overwhelming.
See the dish at the right of the illustra-
tion facing page 118, and No. 21 of the
frontispiece.
XVII
CORNLETTES
Green corn has great possibilities for the
maker of vegetable candy. If fresh corn
can be obtained, boil the ears in salted
water until the kernels are tender. While
they are still hot, with a thin, sharp knife
cut down the center of each row. Press
with the back of the knife down the cob
thus freeing the pulp but leaving the skin
upon the cob. To make certain that the
pulp is free from skins, and of a uniform
consistency, force it through a coarse sieve.
Note that the corn is not to be made into
a paste as was the potato. If canned corn
is used, force it through a sieve.
Boil together, until the mixture is very
thick, one-half cupful of corn, so prepared,
one-half cupful of granulated sugar and
one-half cupful of coffee A sugar. The
thermometer reading will be about two
hundred and thirty degrees. Add one-half
117
ii8 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
cupful of bon-bon cream. Pour the mixture
into a rubber mold, or, if preferred, drop
like cream wafers upon waxed paper. If
the mass is too thick to pour easily, add a
few drops of hot water. The quantities
here given will fill a mold of four-dozen
size the sort illustrated on page 10.
After the drops have dried for five or six
hours, dip them singly into a syrup cooked
to two hundred and twenty-five degrees.
On the next day they will be ready for
packing.
Nut Cornlettes. Cornlettes are a little
richer both in consistency and in flavor
than the many creams to which candy
eaters are accustomed. By the addition of
a nut to each piece, however, cornlettes
may be made still richer and still more dis-
tinctive candy.
There are three methods of adding nuts.
The first method is to push the nut into
each piece soon after it has been poured
into the mold. The great advantage of
this method is its ease and quickness. The
confection is ready for the serving dish
as soon as it is cool enough to leave the
mold. A clearer and better finished ap-
CORNLETTES 119
pearance may be obtained by the use of the
second method. By it, the cornlette, when
molded, is dipped into a crystal syrup.
A drop of the hot crystal is placed upon the
back of the nut meat to serve as glue, and
corn and nut are pressed together. When
cool, the whole is dipped into the crystal.
The third process is a compromise. The
drop may be dipped into the crystal as soon
as it comes from the mold, and the nut,
either plain or dipped, may then be placed
upon it. When the crystal sets, the union
will be firm.
XVIII
ONION COLD TABLETS
By supplying a more wholesome sort of
confectionery, vegetable candy at least
in the eyes of its friends! has decreased
the need of household remedies for indi-
gestion and similar ailments. On the other
hand, the newly discovered candy-making
brings a definite contribution to the family
medicine chest. From onion can be made
tablets that have the virtues assigned to
our foremothers* cough syrups and even
are good to eat, according to those who like
the flavor of the onion.
Onion cold tablets, then, are offered both
as confectionery and as a household rem-
edy. It should be borne in mind, however,
that no household remedy, however good,
or tried, takes the place of the physician.
The family health is too precious a com-
modity to be entrusted to unprofessional
hands.
To make the tablets, cut into thin slices
1 20
ONION COLD TABLETS 121
two ounces of raw onion about half of
a good sized onion, work the onion into
two cupsful of sugar and let the mixture
stand for two hours. Add two-thirds of a
cupful of cold water, place the mass on the
fire, and let it come just to a boil. Strain
the syrup so made into a granite sauce-pan,
and add one teaspoonful of vinegar and
the amount of red pepper that the point of
a knife will hold. Place the mixture on
the fire, and when the mass begins to boil,
put a wooden cover over the pan. Con-
tinue the boiling for several minutes; thor-
oughly " steam down " the side of the pan.
By " steaming down " the side of the pan
is meant confining the steam which rises
from cooking so that it will free the sides
of the pan from the accumulation of the
mass that is cooking.
Remove the cover, insert a thermometer,
and cook the mass to three hundred and
thirty-five degrees. Thereupon stir in one
tablespoonful of butter, remove the mass
from the fire, add one teaspoonful of salt,
and baking soda the size of a large pea.
Thoroughly mix the mass, and pour it be-
tween candy-bars on a well oiled marble
122 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
slab. As the confection sets, mark it off
in squares, and be sure to run the knife
under the whole sheet to free it from the
marble. Unless the sheet is so freed from
the marble it will be sure to stick so that
it can be handled only with difficulty.
When the mass is cooled, it will easily
break into the squares into which it has
been marked. For preserving, pack the
tablets in tin boxes.
For those who do not like so much red
pepper, the quantity may be regulated to
suit. The amount of onion used may also
be increased or diminished as the taste of
the candy- maker dictates.
XIX
ORIENTAL PASTE
This confection is easily made from
purely vegetable ingredients, and has the
pleasing consistency and flavor of the Turk-
ish pastes. The gelatine that is used comes
from an aquatic plant instead of from the
usual source. It can now be obtained in
specialty stores and in some of the grocery
stores of the larger cities.
Cut one-half of an ounce of Japanese gela-
tine into fine pieces, and pour over it two
cupsful of warm water. Ordinary gelatine
can not be substituted. Let it stand for
at least two hours. The results will be
much better if the soaking is allowed to
take a whole night. Set this gelatine water
on the fire and stir it until it comes to a
boil and the gelatine is wholly dissolved.
Mix one pound of sugar and one-half of
a pound of glucose; into them strain the
gelatine. Set the resulting mixture on the
fire and cook it until it is very stringy as
123
124 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
it drops from the paddle. When stirring,
scrape the bottom of the kettle well as the
mixture sticks very easily.
Run a half pound of figs through a
grinder. When the gelatine mass is
cooked, as above, remove it from the fire,
add a few drops of oil of lemon or a tea-
spoonful of lemon extract, and thoroughly
mix in the figs. Dust a marble slab with
confectioner's sugar, place candy bars in
position, and pour the mass between them
so as to form about one-half inch thick.
If the candy is allowed to cool a little be-
fore it is poured out, and is carefully
stirred, the figs will not separate and come
to the top. Dust the top with the sugar
and let it remain over night.
To finish the confection, cut it into
squares by simply pressing the knife down
through it. Roll the pieces in confection-
er's sugar, and pack them in an air-tight
box.
Seaweed. This gelatine called for by
this receipt is also known as Japanese
isinglass, agar-agar, and kanten. It is pe-
culiar to Japan. It is made from seaweed,
the great unused resource of the western
ORIENTAL PASTE 125
world. The Orient alone to any extent
uses seaweed as a food, and, of the Orient,
only Japan shows appreciation of its agri-
cultural and commercial value. Kanten is
the product of five hundred manufacturing
plants in Japan, with an annual output of
over three million pounds. The usual com-
mercial gelatine is made from animal tis-
sues skin, ligaments, tendons, or the ma-
trix of bones, particularly of horns and
hoofs. Seaweed as a source for gelatine
appeals somewhat more to the imagina-
tion!
Kanten is made from the gelidium family
of seaweed which grows in deep water upon
the rocks. Coolies dive for the seaweed.
They wash and dry it by the seaside, and
sell it at seven or eight cents a pound to the
factories for gelatine manufacture. The
perfect purity of kanten is proved by its
use as a culture medium in bacteriological
work.
Gelidium grows on both coasts of Amer-
ica from Canada to the Gulf. This is
true, also, of red laver which is largely
used as a food in Japan and unknown here.
In Japan it is baked or toasted until crisp
126 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
and used in sauces and soups. It is pala-
table, and nutritious, being rich in proteids.
Red laver is not abundant in Japan and is
being cultivated. Sea farming is becoming
an important industry under the supervi-
sion of the government. The red laver beds
are now rented out by the season to the sea
farmers with average crop returns of one
hundred and fifty dollars per acre.
Kelp, also, is utilized in Japan, not alone
for glue, sizing and iodine, but as a food
kombu. In this country, it is sometimes
used to fertilize the low-lying, barren lands
near the shore.
In the marketing of the vegetable sea
food known as Irish moss, New England
comes to the fore. This is a delicious food
product used much as corn starch for blanc-
mange, jellies, custards, and puddings.
In a book relating to candy-making, why
this information concerning the unappre-
ciated food value of seaweed? Because the
discovery of the possibilities that cheap
and common vegetables can well serve as
the basis for the best candy may well be
supplemented by the utilization of sea-
weeds, valuable as a food, but now wasted.
ORIENTAL PASTE 127
In the midst of her work, the candy-cook
may well stop to think that it is by putting
cheap and common things to new uses that
the race will make material progress.
XX
STUFFED FRUITS
Dates for Candy. For the basis of dates
as candies, Fard dates are perhaps the best
because they are generally whole with un-
broken skins. If Persian dates are to be
used instead, they should be of the sort
that come packed in single layers or in
small boxes. The skins of Persian dates
are tender and when taken from boxes
holding fifteen or twenty pounds are torn
by the sharp pick used to handle them.
When cream fillings are used, however,
softer dates can be substituted if they are
carefully handled.
Sparkling Dates. Wash, steam, pit, and
dry. Fill them with rhubarb marmalade,
and close them very tightly. Brush the
whole outside surface with the unbeaten
white of an egg, and roll the dates so coated
in coarse granulated sugar. If Fard dates
cannot be obtained, select as perfect Persian
dates as possible. Fill them with rhubarb
128
STUFFED FRUITS 129
marmalade as for the Fard dates, but do
not use the egg coating. Simply roll in
the sugar.
Chocolate Covered Dates. Proceed as
above up to the point at which the dates
are rolled in sugar. To make the chocolate
confection, roll the dates in confectioner's
sugar, instead of in the coarse granulated.
After they have dried, coat them as usual
with chocolate.
Date Brilliants. Wash, steam, and pit
-dates ; fill them with either vegetable cream
or cream fondant. Dip them singly in a
crystal syrup, cooked to two hundred and
twenty-five degrees. Dry them on a rack.
For fillings, a great variety is possible.
Add finely chopped nuts or granulated
cocoanut to the vegetable cream, or use
rhubarb marmalade, tart jam, or orange
marmalade.
Rhubarb Marmalade. The fillings sug-
gested for date brilliants are all within the
knowledge of the candy-cook, except, per-
haps, rhubarb marmalade. As the basis for
it, wipe clean with a damp cloth stalks of
rhubarb. They must not be put into water.
Peel them and cut them into very thin
130 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
slices. Cover each pound of rhubarb with
one and one-quarter pounds of granulated
sugar. Let the mixture stand over night.
In the morning, boil it for ten minutes, or
a little longer if the rhubarb is not soft.
Grind one-third of a pound of dried figs;
remove the rhubarb and sugar from the
fire; to them add the figs and stir until
they are thoroughly mixed. Boil ten min-
utes more. The marmalade should be put
into glasses while hot, and sealed at once.
Sugared Dates. Prepare dates and fill
as for date brilliants; dip them in syrup,
and, while still damp, dust with granulated
sugar.
Stuffed Dates. Fill with any cream or
marmalade and roll in granulated sugar,
dates washed, strained, steamed and pitted.
Stuffed Prunes. The sort of prunes that
come in boxes are better to use than the
ordinary ones because they are of a better
quality, and are separated in the curing.
Barely cover the prunes with cold water,
and allow them to stand over night. One
method is to pour the water off the next
morning, pit the prunes, and use them as
they are. If the prunes are moist and firm
STUFFED FRUITS 131
to begin with, the soaking is probably all
that is necessary. Otherwise the second
method is the one to be followed. If
so, after the prunes have been soaked,
place them over the fire and allow them
to come to a boil quickly. This applica-
tion of heat is sure to plump out prunes
that have become dry, or have been over-
cured. The difficulty, however, is that
there is danger that the juice will be
started, and much of it lost, and that the
skins may be broken. The second method
will destroy the raw taste to which some
persons object.
No matter which method has been fol-
lowed, fill each prune with tart jam, orange
marmalade, rhubarb marmalade, or with po-
tato fondant, cooked or uncooked, with or
without the addition of nuts. To finish,
coat each prune with the unbeaten white of
an egg, and roll in granulated sugar. If
it is desired, they can be rolled in confec-
tioner's sugar, dried and coated with choco-
late.
XXI
ANGELIQUE
Rings. Angelique is a vegetable that is
of the greatest use as an accessory in the
making of many sorts of vegetable candy.
That fact, however, should not obscure the
equally important fact that its flavor is ex-
cellent and that it may well be used as a
base. Rings made from it are very good if
filled with any one of the four mixtures de-
scribed below. And, as the reader will see
by looking at No. 15 of the frontispiece,
they are good to look upon.
As a beginning, no matter what filling is
to be chosen, cut crystallized angelique
cross-wise into sections a quarter of an inch
wide. If these sections are flattened by
packing or cutting, separate the sides so
that they form circles, the more nearly per-
fect the better.
The fillings may be either potato fondant,
plain or colored, and flavored to taste; po-
tato fondant with chopped nuts worked into
132
v,
Angelica Archangelica
ANGELIQUE 133
it; equal parts of potato fondant and alm-
ond paste; or rhubarb marmalade, with
confectioner's sugar worked into it if it
appears too moist.
When the fillings are in place, each ring
should be dipped separately into a crystal,
cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees,
and then should be allowed to drain on a
wire rack. The next day the process
should be repeated. When the rings have
become thoroughly dry, they will be found
very useful for almost any sort of serving
or packing. The outside is firm, and the
centers soft.
Orange Rings. Rings made from candied
orange peel may be treated similarly. Cut
the peel into rings by using one-half and
one quarter inch cutters. Thereafter both
process and fillings are the same. An in-
teresting combination can be made by ar-
ranging three small orange rings in a
cluster, and holding them in position by
the syrup. In addition to the filling, a
pignolia nut may be placed in each ring.
See No. 19 of the frontispiece.
Angelique as a Plant. Angelique or
angelica is so called because in early centu-
134 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
ries it was thought to be a specific for
poison and pestilence. It is an aromatic
garden herb, of an order of plants of the
cohort umbelliferae, known popularly as
the parsley family. The order is one of
strongly marked properties. Some of its
members contain an aromatic oil and fur-
nish condiments as anise, dill, caraway,
and coriander. From another group these
qualities are nearly absent and the stem
and leaf are edible as in celery, angelique
and parsley; or the root as in carrot and
parsnip.
Angelique is native to many temperate
parts of Europe and America. It grows on
river banks and in other damp places. It
is easily cultivated and often grows to the
height of six feet. Its seeds may be sown
in the autumn as soon as they are ripe, or
they may be planted in the spring. Angel-
ique develops a plant much like celery. It
is blanched and eaten the same way. The
stalk is used commercially when crystallized
or candied. It is green in color and pleas-
ingly pungent in flavor, and lends itself in
many ways to the use of the candy-maker.
It comes generally in strips six or seven
ANGELIQUE 135
inches long and is cut according to the
special directions for the different candies.
Angelique is so easy to raise and is of
such value that two methods of handling
it when home grown are given below.
Why so many candy-makers with gardens
continue to buy it when it can be cultivated
so easily is a mystery.
Preserved Green Angelique. Select an-
gelique that is fresh, young, crisp, and as
tender as possible. Cut the stalks into six
inch lengths; wash them thoroughly. Boil
them in water for ten minutes, and drain
them. Thereupon, boil them in a syrup
for half an hour. Let them cool in the
syrup. Store in wide-mouthed bottles or
jars.
Dried Angelique. Prepare the angelique
as before. Cut the stalks into strips, loz-
enges, or large and small rings. Boil them
in the syrup three or four times as was
directed before. After draining, roll each
piece in powdered sugar. Dry them thor-
oughly on a screen, and store carefully.
XXII
FOR THE CATERER
Vegetable candy opens up a new field for
the caterer. It furnishes him material that
is not only cheaper but better than that
with which he has been accustomed to
work. Not only are the results better, but
they are achieved by the expenditure of
much less effort. Potato fondant can be
made to assume clear outlines without the
hour after hour beating required by the
traditional French methods. Moreover,
the caterer's customers can have the satis-
faction of knowing that the pretty things
that they are buying are not made with the
help of plaster of Paris or other ingredients
of which the less there is said the better!
The caterer should take particular note
of the illustration facing page 138. It will
suggest many of the uses to which the new
mediums can be put. The caterer, also,
should read with particular care the chap-
ter relating to decorative candy. Chap-
136
FOR THE CATERER 137
ter and illustration together will furnish
him with ideas as to how he can make use
of this discovery in his own profession. Of
course, for success, absolute familiarity
with the processes of vegetable candy-mak-
ing is essential.
There are a few definite points which
should be borne in mind, however, by the
person who wishes to use vegetable candy
in catering. Flowers can be wired and
used as bouquets. As will be seen from the
illustration facing the next page, to hold
candles for use on birthday cakes there is no
need to use the objectionable wire cups.
Smaller flower cups made from potato fon-
dant can be substituted. An excellent
method is to use them in the border.
There, they are not only useful but highly
decorative. Nor need there be used cups
made from starch, plaster of Paris, or other
inedible mixtures.
The possibilities of using potato fondant
as the base for fancy cups to hold ice
creams and ices are unlimited. For in-
stance, the fondant can be molded into cups
of conventionalized flower designs. The
caterer should remember that these cups
138 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
should be dipped one or more times in a
crystal syrup. This will not only make
them resemble somewhat the ever popular
spun sugar, but will tend to make them im-
pervious to the melting ices or creams. As
a result, the fondant itself will retain its
crispness. A similar use is for novel con-
tainers for salted almonds and nut meats.
One great advantage of the use of ob-
jects made from vegetable candy is that
they may very easily be made to follow the
color schemes used at luncheons or dinners.
The color may be very easily applied to
the exterior or may be worked into the
mass itself before it is molded. Just how
these operations should be followed will
readily be seen by re-reading Chapter VIII,
division III,
"DECORATIVE CANDIES FROM PO-
TATO FONDANT."
For instance, if pink is the color for the
luncheon, wild roses easily suggest them-
selves as promising decorations. The form
of the wild rose lends itself readily to cups,
the larger ones for ices and the smaller
for nuts. If the function is a birthday, wild
FOR THE CATERER 139
roses may well be used for candle cups on
cakes. If not a birthday, and decorative
icing is desired for large or small cakes,
nothing could be prettier than the roses.
They can be used either as a border of con-
ventional regularity around a large cake or
in the center of small, round cakes covered
with white icing. As a flower decoration,
candy wild roses can be placed in a vase in
the middle of the table. To carry the place
cards, there may be a butterfly alighting
upon each rose cup holding nuts. These
butterflies can be made of vegetable candy,
water color paper, or bolting cloth; what-
ever their material, they must be wired, or
glued, with a few drops of crystal syrup, to
the edge of the rose.
If, however, the luncheon is to be violet,
other decorations can be used. The center
piece may be a large bunch of popcorn
violets. At each plate there may be
French baskets, made from potato fondant
colored pale violet, filled with cocoanut vio-
lets. To give the idea that the baskets
have just come from the florist's, to each
there may well be tied a card bearing the
name of the guest. In this instance, it
140 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
would be well for the ice to be served in a
fondant basket and capped with a few vio-
lets.
The caterer will readily see that vegeta-
ble candy offers itself in countless ways in
connection with place cards. The new
candy can not only be used as the holder
for daintily designed cards, but the de-
sign itself may be painted directly upon
the object modeled from potato fondant
or potato paste. The first method is likely
to be rather more easy in its process and
attractive in its results, on the whole,
but the second has the distinction
of novelty. It surely is an interesting
thing for the guests to be able to eat their
place cards, decoration, design, and all!
For Easter, yellow is a particularly good
color. For ices, cups and cases can be made
of white and yellow fondant modeled in
the form of jonquils or daffodils. Carrot
rings, served with the salad course, would
add a touch of variety. As is suggested
in the chapter concerning decorative can-
dies, potato fondant can be made to serve
the table decorator especially well for spe-
cial times and functions. Insignia can eas-
FOR THE CATERER 141
ily be formed of fondant, either as separate
forms to be wired and used as place cards
or as place cards attached to the little cases
paper or fondant. A Masonic dinner, for
instance, would use the square and compass
in different ways, and one for the Odd Fel-
lows would make use of their three links.
For college banquets, the appropriate Greek
letter insignia could be used. In this case,
however, the caterer must make sure that
he is not violating any of the rules of the
societies to which his guests belong.
For any decoration that is flat instead of
modeled, the potato paste can be substi-
tuted for the potato fondant. Thus, in the
case last cited above, many of the insignia
can be cut from paste more easily than they
can be modeled from fondant. A tinsmith
can easily make a cutter that will save
time if a number of the same design are
desired.
The paste can be used with the fondant,
either in the same object or separately for
the same occasion.
Vegetable candy can be made by the
skillful amateur as readily as by the manu-
facturer. No large plant or complicated
142 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
machinery is required. As a result, the girl
or woman with a skill that is great, but a
bank account that is small, may find vege-
table candy the road to a profitable catering
trade. If in a small town, she can if she
is sufficiently skillful fashion decorations
for food that will rival the products of the
art of the city caterer. Moreover, inas-
much as she is put to comparatively little
expense, and is using comparatively cheap
ingredients, she can undersell her urban
competitor. And her fellow townswomen
who buy her wares will have the distinct
satisfaction of knowing that her product is
free from harmful ingredients.
XXIII
FOR THE TEACHER
The discovery of vegetable candy has
been of great pedagogic value. Teachers
of household arts and all art are beginning
to find that the new bases are of great serv-
ice to them in their class work. Before
this discovery, there was no medium which
was of use for both cooking and the model-
ing classes. Now cooking classes and mod-
eling classes can be correlated in such a
way that much is promised both.
The processes in the making of potato
fondant and potato paste illustrate funda-
mental principles in domestic science.
With the exercise of a little care on the
part of the teacher, their making can be as
simple and educationally valuable as the
traditional first lesson in peppermint drops.
In the fashioning of these new. candies,
however, there is more incentive to the
child than there was in the cooking of the
old-fashioned confection, no matter how de-
M3
144 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
lectable it might be. But the pedagogic
value of vegetable candy does not fall
wholly within the field of household arts.
As has been explained in the chapter con-
cerning decorative candy, potato fondant
and paste are the basis of very attractive
objects. Their fashioning, obviously, can be
made to teach principles of line, design
and color. Is it not safe to say that no
other modeling medium edible or inedi-
ble possesses this threefold recommenda-
tion? Fondant or paste can be colored by
painting directly upon the finished surfaces,
or the coloring matter can be worked into
the mass. In either case, there is a pleas-
ing relief from the gray or green of clay
and its preparations. Now the child can
model in natural colors what he sees on his
nature study rambles. Now he can make
roses in their natural colorings and shad-
ings, and buds that are not wholly a dull,
dead green! Moreover, potato fondant can
be modeled so as to have clearer outlines
than clay. There are two disadvantages,
however, which should be stated: first, po-
tato fondant must be handled with mod-
erate quickness in order to give the best
FOR THE TEACHER 145
results, and, second, it is so good that there
is danger that the pupil will prematurely
eat his lesson!
Because the finished product is good to
eat as well as to look upon, potato fondant
as a modeling medium adds to the teacher's
resources another incentive for the child.
In work with defective children, it has been
found, again and again, that the more
senses to which appeal can be made, the
better. Do not the same principles apply
to the normal child, although with some-
what lessened force? In art work with
vegetable candy, sight and touch are not
the only senses in operation; taste and
smell are in full play.
Often, teachers of both art and house-
hold arts are perplexed when it comes time
for the annual schood exhibition. "What
can we do/' they ask, "that will be prop-
erly illustrative of our work and, at the
same time, of appeal to the popular imagi-
nation ? " It is hoped that vegetable candy
offers an answer to this question. Its nov-
elty and hygienic value are such that par-
ents of the children are interested in it.
Moreover, the unusual interest of the chil-
146 CANDY-MAKING REVOLUTIONIZED
dren themselves has been known to react
upon the parents.
Suggestions for the details of working
out the school use of vegetable candy will
be found in the pages which precede. The
teachers should read with particular care
the chapter which refers to decorative
candy, and particularly the division relating
to modeling. They will find many hints as
to how it can be successfully applied to
their own school work.
THE END
INDEX
INDEX
Abel, Mrs. Mary H., on value of sugar in diet, 48.
Accuracy, necessity for, 3.
Almonds, Celtic, 86.
Angelique, dried, 135; preserved green, 135; plant,
133; rings, 132.
Apples, red, as decorative candies, 70.
Bars, for forming masses, 14-15.
Bars, chocolate, 87.
"Ball," "hard," 19, 22; "soft," 19, 22.
Bean, 102-104; bean taffy, 103; candied green beans,
102; nut bean taffy, 104; pulled taffy, 104.
Beet, 105-109; beet cubes, 107; beet puffs, 106;
crystallized beets, 108; frosted beet slice, 105;
spiced beets, 109; spiced beet bon bons, 109.
Boiler, use of double, 24, 25.
Bon bons, spiced beet, 109.
Bon bon dipper, 8.
Boutonnieres, parsnip, 95 -96 ; violet, 59-60.
Brilliants, date, 129; date, with rhubarb marmalade,
130.
Burs, nut, 114.
Calla lily, as decorative candy, 69.
Caramel, opera, 83; potato, 80-83.
Carrot, 97-101; crystallized, 98; garden "ginger," 99;
rings, 97; rolls, 98.
Caterer, the, 136-142; coloring for, 138; cups, 137;
decorations, 139, 140; flowers, 137; potato fon-
dant for, 136.
Celtic almonds, 86.
Chocolate, bars, 87; coating, 36-40; covered dates,
129; in crystallization, 27; marshmallow, 112;
nougatines, 114; peppermints, 86.
Child, the, craving for sweets of, vii, viii ; sugar for,
viii, 47-5i; Mrs. Mary Hinman Abel on, 48.
149
ISO INDEX
Cleanliness, necessity for, 4.
Climatic conditions, in candy making, 4; in chocolate
coating, 35, 36.
Cocoanut violets, 58.
Cold tablets, onion, 120.
Cornlettes, 117; nut, 118.
Corn starch, for drying, 18.
"Crack," 19, 22.
Creams, pecan, 85; raisin, 85; vegetable, 88.
Crystallization, 27-32; beets, 108; chocolate in, 27;
crystal syrup, 28, 29; French hand, 30; basis for
parsnip candy, 93; sugar, 28.
Crystallized beets, 108.
Crystal syrup, 28, 29.
Dates, candy, 128; chocolate covered, 129; date bril-
liants, 129; rhubarb marmalade for, 130; spar-
kling dates, 128; stuffed dates, 130; sugared, 130.
Decorative candies, 52-79; from potato paste, 52-57;
green leaves, 56 ; potato paste, 53 ; violets, 57-
61 ; cocoanut violets, 58; popcorn violets, 57;
violet boutonnieres. 59, 60 ; from potato fon-
dant, 61-79; calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66;
cooked potato fondant, 62; daisy, white, 66;
daisy, yellow, 69 ; grapes, 77 ; modeled candy,
62 ; new potato, 75 ; parsnip boutonniere, 95 ; pea
pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; single
rose, 72 ; snow balls, 76 ; uncooked potato fon-
dant, 61 ; white daisy, 66 ; yellow daisy, 69.
Degrees, on candy thermometer, 22.
Dishes, white enamel best, 12.
Dipper, bon bon, 8.
Double boiler, use of, 2*4, 25.
Dropping funnel, n.
Fondant, potato, decorative candies from, 61-79;
calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66; cooked potato
fondant, 62 ; daisy, white, 66 ; daisy, yellow, 69 ;
grapes, 77; modeled candy, 62; new potato, 75;
parsnip boutonniere, 95 ; pea pod, 76 ; red apples,
70; rose buds, 74; single rose, 72; snow balls,
INDEX 151
Fondant. Continued.
76; uncooked potato fondant, 61; white daisy,
66; yellow daisy, 69.
Frosted beet slice, 105.
Funnel, dropping, n.
Fruits, stuffed, 128-131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate
covered, 129; date brilliants, 129; rhubarb mar-
malade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sug-
ared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130.
Garden "ginger," 99.
Gelidium, 125.
"Ginger," garden, 99.
Glucose, 46.
Grapes, in decorative candy, 77.
Green leaves, in decorative candy, 56.
"Hard ball," 19, 22.
"Hard crack," 19, 22.
Hook, taffy, 13.
Irish moss, 126.
Kanten, 125.
Kelp, 126.
Knife, special, 12, 13; for cutting in, 14; palette, 55.
Knots, sweet potato, 91.
Marshmallow, chocolate, 112; tomato, no.
Mat, rubber, 9.
Mocha walnuts, 84.
Modeled candy, 62-64.
Modeling stick, 16.
Moss, Irish, 126.
Netting, wire, used in draining fruits, 5, 17.
Nougatines, chocolate, 114; vegetable, 112.
Novice, help for the, 3-7.
Nut burs, 114.
Nut cornlettes, 118.
i$2 INDEX
Onion cold tablets, 120.
Orange rings, 133.
Oriental paste, 123.
Packing, of candies, 6.
Parsnip, 93-96; boutonnieres, 95-96; candied, 93-95.
Paste, oriental, 123 ; potato, 52 ; potato, use by teach-
ers, 143-
Pastilles, sweet potato, 92.
Patties, sweet potato, 90.
Pea pods, in decorative candies, 76.
Pecan creams, 85.
Peppermint chocolates, 86.
Popcorn violets, 57.
Potato, new, in decorative candy, 75; caramels, 80-
83 ; Celtic almonds, 86 ; chocolate bars, 87 ; mocha
walnuts, 84; pecan creams, 85; peppermint choc-
olates, 86; raisin creams, 85; sweet potato, 90-
92 ; knots, 91 ; pastilles, 92 ; patties, 90.
Potato fondant, decorative candies from, 61-79;
cooked, 62; uncooked, 61; modeled candy front,
62; coloring for, 64-66; calla lily, 69; daisy,
white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled
candy 62; new potato, 75; parsnip boutonniere,
95; pea pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74;
single rose, 72; snow balls, 76; white daisy, 66;
yellow daisy, 69.
Potato paste, 52.
Prunes, stuffed, 130.
Pulling taffy, 6, 7.
Racks, for drying, 17.
Raisin creams, 85.
Red apples, in decorative candy, 70.
Rings, angelique, 132; carrot, 97; orange, 133.
Rose, buds, as decorative candy, 74; single, as
decorative candy, 72.
Scale, thermometer, 22.
Screens, 17.
INDEX 153
Sea weed, as food, 124; gelidium, 125; Irish moss,
126; kanten, 125; kelp, 126.
Snow balls, in decorative candy, 76.
Soapstone, used as working slab, 5.
Sparkling dates, 128.
Spiced beets, 109.
Spiced beet bon bons, 109.
Steam, candy making, 24-26; double boiler, use of,
24, 25; steaming, 24; steam bath, 25.
Stuffed fruits, 128-131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate
covered, 129; date brilliants, 129: rhubarb mar-
malade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sug-
ared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130.
Sugar 41-51; for children, 47-51; for crystallization,
28 ; glucose, 46 ; rolling candies in, 5, 6 ; value
of, 41-43; varieties of, 44.
Sugared dates, 130.
Sweet potato, knots, 91; pastilles, 92; patties, 90.
Sweets, necessity of, i, ii, viii.
Tablets, onion cold, 120.
Taffy, bean, 103; nut bean, 104; pulling, 6, 7.
Taffy hook, 13.
Teacher, the, 143-146; potato paste or fondant as
medium for, 144.
Thermometer, 19-23; scales, 22; "crack," 19, 22;
"hard ball," 19, 22; "hard crack," 19, 22; "soft
ball," 19, 22; "thread," 19, 2*2.
"Thread," 19, 22.
Tomato, 110-116; chocolate marshmallow, 112;
chocolate nougatine, 114; nut burs, 114; tomato
marshmallow, no; vegetable nougatine, 112.
Utensils, bars, forming, 14, 15; bonbon dippers, 8;
dropping funnel, li; knife, for cutting in, 14;
knife, palette, 55; knife, special, 12, 13; model-
ing stick, 17; rubber mat, 9; screens, 17; taffy
hook, 13; wooden spoon and paddle, 12.
Vegetable candy, keeping quality of, ii; modeling
medium, iv; sociological value of, iv.
154 INDEX
Vegetable creams, 88.
Vegetable nougatines, 112.
Violets, 57-6i; boutonnieres, 59, 60; cocoanut, 58;
popcorn, 57.
Walnuts, mocha, 84.
Weather, influence on candy making, 4, 35.
White daisy, as decorative candy, 66.
Working slab, soapstone used as, 5.
Wooden utensils, spoon and paddle, 12.
Yellow daisy, as decorative candy, 66.
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