'I Hi
iiiiS
The following Works may be had at the Depositories of the
SOCIKTY/oj- PROMOTING CHllISTIAN KNOWLEDGE,
77, GllliAT aUEEN STREET, ASD 4, ROYAL EXCIIAKGE.
Cfje Cljurclj in tfte Colonies. pnce.
No. Publi^hcd. Diocese. Part. ». d.
I. 1843, Dec. . . TORONTO 6
II. 1844, Fel). . . QUEBEC 1 8
III. 1844, March . . NOVA SCOTIA 8
IV. 1844, Aug. . . NEW ZEALAND . 1 10
V. 1845, Feb. . . AUSTRALIA ... 1 04
VI. 1845, March . . AUSTRALIA ... II. ... 6
vn. 1845, AUR. . . NEW ZEALAND . . II. ...00
VIII. 1845, Sept. . . NEW ZEALAND . . III. ... 4
JX. 1845, Oct. . . aUEliEC II. ... 6
X. 1846, Jan. . . NEWFOUNDLAND 3
Xr. 1846, Feb. . . FRKDERICTON 3
XII. 1846, April . . NEW ZEALAND . . IV. ... 4
XIII. 1S46, July . . NOVA SCOTIA . . II. ... 6
XIV. 1846, Oct. . . AUSTRALIA . . . III. ... 6
XV. 1846, Nov. . . NEWFOUNDLAND . II. ... 2
XVI. 1846, Dec. . . FREDERICTON . . II. ... 3
XVII. 1847, Feb. . . NOVA SCOTIA . . III. ... 3
XVIII. 1847, March . . QUEREC III. ... 1
XIX. 1848, Dec. . . NEWFOUNDLAND . III. ... 4
XX. 1849, March . . NEW ZEALAND . . V. ... 1
XXI. 1849, April . . NEWFOUNDLAND . IV. . .10
XXII. 1849, Oct. . . . CAPETOWN ... I. ... 1
XXIII. 1850, March . . TASMANIA 4
XXIV. 1850, June . . MELBOURNE in
XXV. 1850, July . . NEWFOUNDLAND .V. ... 1
XXVr. 1851, Feb. . . NEWFOUNDLAND 3
XXVII. 1851, Sept. . . CAPETOWN ... li. ... 1 6
Nos. I. to XXII. in four volumes, cloth lettered . . 12s. Gd.
The MISSIONS IN TINNEVELLY; with a Map (1845) ... 3
HISTORICAL NOTICES of the MISSIONS of the CHURCH of
ENGLAND, in the North American Colonies 9
ANNALS of the COLONIAL CHURCH: Fredericton, U.; New
Zealand, Zs.; Toronto, 'is. ■id.; Quebec, Zs.&d.
ii-lisstoiis to t()c fitjcatftrn. Priee.
N.). Pnl>li<hed. Mission. Diocese. Part. i. li.
1. 1844. Aug. . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras .1. .03
II. 1844, Dec. . EDEYENKOODY .Madras .1. .02
III. 1815, Jan. . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras . II. . 2
IV. 1845, Feb. . CAWNPORE . . . Calcutta ... I
V. 1845, March. NAZARETH . . . Madras ... I
VI. 1845, June . LAKE HURON . .Toronto .1. .03
VII. 1845, Aug. . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras . III. . 2
VIII. 1845, Dec. . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras . IV. . 1
IX. 1846, Jan. . VISITATION TOUR. Madras ... 4
X. 1846, March. EDEYENKOODY .Madras . II. . 2
XI. 18i6, Mav . GUZERAT . . . .Bombay .1. .03
XII. 1846, June . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras .V. .03
XIII. 1846, Au-. . LAKE HURON . .Toronto . II. . 3
XIV. 1846, Sept. .NAZARETH . . .Madras . II. . I
XV. 1847, May .BARRIPUR. . . . Calcitta . ..04
XVI. 1847, June . SAWYERPOORAM . Madras . VI. . 1
XVII. 1847, Aug. .COLOMBO . . . .Colombo .1. ,00
XVIil. 1847, Sept. .COLOMBO . . . .Colombo .11. . C
XIX. 1S47, Nov. . EDEYENKOODY . Madras . III. . o 1
XX. 1849, Jan. . TANJORE, &c. . .Madras. ...01
XXI. 1849, April . MADRAS .... Madras .... I
XXII. 1849, Dec. . MADRAS .... Madras .... 2
XXIII. 1850, Nov. .TINNEVELLY . .Madras ....10
Nos, I. to XlX. ill lui. wliiines, cloth lettered . . . As. 1\<I.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
JOURNALS
TWO VISITATIONS
m 1848 AND 1850.
RIGHT EEV. ROBEPtT GRAY, D.D.
LORD BISHOP OF CAPETOWN.
WITH MAPS. .
ITINERARY OF THE BISHOPS VISITATION
IN 184S.
. Time. Place. PaV
August 24 Sandileet 1
. ,, 25 Somerset ^
Cole's Pass ^
,, 26 Caledon 3
,, 30 Genadendal *^
,, 31 Zonder-Ende '
Sept. 1 — 4 Swellendam ^
„ 5 Riversdale '•'
6 Goaritz River 1"*
,, 7 Mossel Bay 1"^
„ 8—10 George 1'*
„ 11 Pakalsdorp •**
,, 12 Belvidere !■'
„ 13 Portlands 21
,,14—17 MelvUle 21
,, 15 Plettenberg Bay 22
,, 18 Avonteuer 24
,,19—20 Lange Kloof 26
,, 21 Eschenbosch 28
Moulinans 28
Human 28
,. 22 St. Francis Bay 28
,,23—26 Uitenhage 29
„ 27 Bethelsdorp 31
2s— Oct. 1 Port Elizabeth 31
2 Sunday River 34
3 Sidbury 34
,, 5 Graham's Town 36
., 6—8 King AVilliam's Town 37
9 Back to Graham's Town, by Fort Peddle 46
., 10—17 Graham's Town (Second Visit) 48
18 Bathurst 52
,, 20 Cuyleville 54
,, 21 Southwell 5.')
22 Graham's Town (Third Visit) 56
23 Fort Brown 57
,, 24 Fort Beaufort 57
25 Ely 5!)
Fort Hare 59
26 Woburn •>"
, Auckland ''"
VI ITIXKR.VRY OF THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS.
Time. Place. Page
Oct. 2li Chumie lil
., , Balfour, Kat River 01
,. ii7 Post Relief (a.'icendcd VVinterberg Range) CI
,. 28 Mancazana Post (12
,, 30 Visit to Sir A. Stockenstrom CG
."51 Great Fish River ri7
Nov. 1 Somerset (through Squaggas Hoek) 68
,. 2 & 3 Cradock !(through a Karroo country, by the Great 69
Fish River)
,, 7 Macaster Fontein 72
„ 8 Colesberg 73
,,13—16 Travelling 76
„ 16—20 Graaff Reinet 77
,,21—23 Travelling 79
Sneeuwberg 80
Buffalo River 80
24 Beaufort 81
27 — Dec. 1 Travelling (desolate Karroo country) 84
Zunyberg Mountains 85
Olifant's River 87
Dec. 2 — 5 George (Second Visit) 87
,, C— 8 Great Braak River 89
Goaritz River 89
Riversdale (Second Visit) 89
Port Beaufort 89
,, 9 Swellendam (Second Visit) 90
,, 12 Worcester 91
,, 15 Mitchell's Pass 94
,, 16 Wellington 95
ThePaarl 95
,,17—18 Stellenbosch 96
,, 19—20 ThePaarl 97
Malmesbury 97
21 D'Urban 99
Table Mountain 'js
Protea (the Bishop's House) 99
ITINERARY IN 1850.
April 1 Stellenbosch '
2 Paarl -'
., 3 Bain's Kloof 2
„ 4 Tulbagh 3
,, 5 Worcester •'
„ 8 Mitchel's Pass *
9 The Patata River *
,, 10 Zoute Kloof 5
„ 11 Bluid Rivier '•
12 Bitter Water River G
„ 13 Beaufort 6
ITINERARY OF THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS. VU
Time. Place. Page
April 17 Rhinoster Kop 8
IS Camdeboo 9
,, 19 Graaf Reinet .. 9
,, 24 Richmond 11
27 Colesberg 15
30 Philipolis l(j
May 2 Bethany 19
,, 3 Bloem-fontein 21
7 Thaba-Umchu 24
S Makquatlin 28
9 Merimotzo, Winburg 30, 33
10 Vaal River 34
,, 12 Isaak's House 34
13 Wilge River 35
,, 14 Drakenberg 36
,, 17 Mooi River 39
18 Maritzburg 40
28 Botha's 47
29 D'Urban SO
June 4 Mr. Lindley's Station 52
,, 5 Mr. Lewis Grout's Station 54
,. () Mr. Alden Grout's Station 54
,, 7 Cotton Company's Lands 57
8 D'Urban 58
., 10 Dr. Adams' Station 59
11 D'Urban 60
13 Botha's 62
,, 14 Maritzburg 62
19 Indaleni 62
„ 20 Maritzburg 64
26 Mr. Davis' Station 68
July 2 Indaleni 80
,, 5 Umzumkulu River 83
,, 6 Ibesi River 84
., 13 Palmerston 95
,, 15 Umzumvoobo * !)f)
,. 17 Buntingville lOO
18 Morley Station 101
,, 19 Beecham Wood 102
20 Butterworth 104
,, 23 Hangman's Bush 107
,, 24 King William's Town 107
,, 29 East London 108
31 King William's Town 109
August 1 Fort Waterloo 110
,, 2 King William's Town 115
„ 3 Fort Peddle 118
,, 5 Graham's Town 119
,, 17 Balhurst )25
„ 20 Southwell 127
,, 21 Salem 128
22 Olifant's Hock 129
,) 23 Commando Kraal 129
„ 24 Port Elizabeth 129
Sept. 5 Commando Kraal 138
,, 6 Sidbury 1,38
,, 9 Graham's Town 139
>, 25 Koonap River 141
,, 26 Fort Hare 144
VIU ITIXKRAliV *)i- THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS.
Time. Place. Paye
Sept. 28 Fort Beaufort 147
Oct. 1 Mancazana 149
4 Retief 151
7 Shiloh 15.-5
,, 8 Kama's Town 1.5(>
,, 11 Burghersdorp 158
14 Aliwal Horth IGl
„ 15 Burghersdorp 163
„ 18 Cradock 164
„ 23 Mr. Liesching's 167
28 Graaff Reinet 168
Nov. 2 Somerset. 171
,. 6 Zuurberg 174
,, 7 Commando Kraal, Sunday's River 175
,, 8 Uitenhage 176
12 Port Elizabeth 177
,,^^■•-^8 Gamtoo's River 178
19 Mr. Macintosh's 179
•20 Dr. Buchan's 180
r, 22 Van Roy's 181
„ 23 Sclioonberg 182
„ 25 Belvedere 183
26 Melville 184
27 Plettenburg Bay 184
Dec. 1 Belvedere 188
2 George 188
„ 10 Riversdale 196
13 Swellendara 197
„ 18 Riversdale 198
19 Caledon 199
23 Eerste Rivier 200
„ 24 Protea 201
NOTE . JJi^. Unc moj^ci c.ot
the Bi.ihops -route
QTI^urct m tlj£ Colonics.
No. XXII.
DIOCESE OF CAPETOWN.— PART L
A JOURNAL
OF
THE BISHOP'S YISITATION TOUR
THROl'GH
THE CAPE COLONY, IN 1848,
WITH AN ACCOUNT Or HIS
VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF ST. HELENA, IN 1849,
LONDON:
PRIATED FOR
THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL;
SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE,
GRKAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS,
AND 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE ;
RIVINGXONS; HATCHAR1>S; AND ALL BOOKSELLERS.
1849.
Ocluber.
LONDON :
K. OLAV, VRINTEK, BREAD STREET HILL.
NOTICE.
It is due to the Bishop of Capetown to
state that the following Journal of his primary
Visitation through his Diocese is published
without any direct sanction from his Lordship.
The family of the Bishop have, however, kindly
granted to the Society for the Propagation of
the Gospel, permission to print what, although
written as a private journal, contains so much
matter of public importance, and conveys such
interesting details of the Bishop's valuable
labours in the Church's cause. Extracts from
the Bishop's correspondence are added, nar-
rating his visitation at St. Helena in March
and April, 1849.
The accompanying Map, furnished through
the liberality of Mr. J. Arrowsmith, has been
adapted to the Journal.
1304264
JOURNAL
OF A
VISITATION THROUGH THE CAPE COLONY,
In 1848.
Thursday, Aug. 24, 1848.— This day I com-
menced my first Visitation of the Diocese, intending
to go through the Colony, and to remain out till the
early part of December ; after which I am informed,
that the extreme heat of the weather will compel me
to return. May God grant that this Visitation may
tend to the promotion of His glory, and to the ex-
tension of the kingdom of His dear Son in this deso-
late and long-neglected portion of the vineyard.
I start far from well, and in some fear of a recur-
rence of my late severe illness : my medical man,
however, hopes that the journey may benefit my
health. My mode of travelling is in a good plain
English wagon, drawn by eight horses ; we carry
with us abundant provisions for the way, in case we
should either be stopped by rivers, or not able to find
accommodation ; my wagon too is so arranged that I
can by letting down the back of my seat make a
tolerable bed for myself. * *
B
2 SANDILEET. COLe's PASS.
I slept the first niglit at INIr. Cloete's, Sandileet,
•where I was entertained very hospitably. He is
anxious to build a Church near his house. The
plan he had procured was not a very correct one. I
furnished him with another, and promised him 25/.
from my fund, and 101. as my private subscription. I
also urged liim to apply to Government for assist-
ance, both towards the Church, and support of a
Clergyman.
Friday, All (J. 2o. — Started at six o'clock in the
morning. I do not find wagon travelling so un-
pleasant as I expected. It is rather rough work,
but I have managed to read. We breakfasted at the
foot of Sir Lowry Cole's Pass, just beyond the vil-
lage of Somerset, where there is a Dutch Church
and a Wesleyan Chapel, with two Missionaries for
the coloured people. * * *
I hope to form the villages of Erste River, Stellen-
bosch, and Worcester, into a parish. After break-
fast I walked in advance of the wagon over Sir
L. Cole's Pass. The views were very fine, but the
day, though a brilliant one, was not so clear for dis-
tant views as I could have wished. Slept at Bot
River. Our whole journey lay amongst the moun-
tains. The views could scarcely be called magni-
ficent, yet they were interesting. We passed very
few houses in which I did not find English labourers.
There are very few patches of cultivated ground
all the way. I saw for the first time a man riding
an ox.
Saturday, Aug. 26. — Started a little after six
CALEDON. 3
o'clock, after a good night's rest. Our route to-daj
still lay through the mountains which, as we reached
Caledon, dwindled down to hills. The country is
very bare. Here and there only there are a few
cultivated patches. The general features, however,
are like our English moors. There is scarce a tree
to be seen. As I approached Caledon, I met a ser-
vant whom Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate,
had sent to watch for me. We drove to his house,
where he had kindly prepared breakfast for me, there
being no inn in the place. After breakfast I walked
round the village, to look for a site for the proposed
Church. The Municipality offer land, also Captain
Mackay. I fixed upon sites, and requested them to
have the consent of the Municipality given formally,
in time for our Meeting on Tuesday. There are
many English in this neighbourhood, and it is an
important post for a Church and Clergyman. In
the afternoon I drove on (four hours) to Captain
Ranier's, where I am to have my head quarters for a
day or two, while visiting the District. The country
is still open, and moorish, with mountains in the
distance. The season is much later here than about
Cape Town. Here is scarce a flower in blossom. I
find my men pass me off on the road as a very great
man. To-day they drew up near some boors, who
were outspanning, and waited for some time as I did
not look out of my wagon ; Ludwig came to tell
me they wanted to look at me. * * *
Sunday, Aug. 27. — I find Captain Kanier and his
family good Christian people. We have been dis-
4 CALEDON.
cussing plans for providing for the spiritual wants
of the District, and I hope we shall be able to get
two Churches and a Clergyman. We had Divine
service this morning in Captain Ranier's dining
room and hall ; there were 70 persons present, and
several from the neighbourhood could not attend. I
baptized two children after the second Lesson ; there
were fifteen communicants, several were deeply
affected. We had again a full service in the even-
ing, and a very good congregation. Captain Ranier
leading the singing ; there were many coloured
people present ; Captain Ranier reads prayers and a
sermon every Sunday morning and evening, and he
has good congregations. The nearest Church and
Clergyman are at Capetown, three days' journey
from this place. We have already 700/. for our two
Churches, and hope to raise 1,000/., which will be
the least amount for which they can be built.
Monday, Aug. 28. — This morning brought a
most unexpected letter from Mr. , saying
that he purposed leaving this part of the Colony, and
therefore must withdraw his subscription of 100/.,
and his grants of land. Though discouraged, we are
resolved not to be cast down, but to make the greater
exertions. Went to Colonel Dulton's, where we
dined and slept. He takes up the Caledon Church
very warmly.
Ihiesday, Aug. 29. — Went in early to Caledon ;
found a good number, chiefly of the middle classes,
come in for our Meeting. We had, I think, more
than 50 persons present ; nearly 120/ was raised in
CALEDON. 5
the room for a Church. It was decided to adopt
one of the designs I had with me, likely to cost 600/.,
and calculated to hold 200 souls ; many promised to
collect in the District, and to write home to friends
in England to assist ; several pledged themselves
also to increase their subscriptions, if needed ;
others offered timber, reeds, &c. ; others, again, pro-
mised to draw materials : we also addressed a stronc:
memorial to Government, praying for help : an ex-
cellent spirit prevailed throughout the Meeting,
and all seemed thankful there was a pi'ospect of
having their spiritual wants supplied. Several per-
sons, after the Meeting, spoke to me with much feel-
ing of their wretched state in the entire absence
of all means of grace, and contrasted their condition
with what it had been in this respect in our own
dear mother land, and in the bosom of our mother
Church. One man brought two of his daughters
twenty-five miles, and entreated me to confirm them.
He had taken them down to Capetown to be con-
firmed, and they had been for some time under
Mr. Lamb's instruction, who wrote to me in their
favour ; my lengthened illness compelled them to
return : after some conversation with, and examina-
tion of them, I confirmed them. I also baptized tv/o
children of English emigrants. Captain Mackay,
the resident Magistrate, gave us luncheon after the
Meeting ; and in the evening I returned with Captain
Ranier to Nethercourt, thankful for the result of the
day, and in good hope that we shall shortly see
6 GENADENDAL.
the two Churches springing up, so as to become a
blessing to this desolate land. I received a note to
say tliat Mr. Green had arrived by the Oriental,
emigrant ship, and would follow me to act as
chaplain.
Wednesday, Aurj. 30. — Breakfasted this morning
with Mr. Bayley, at the Oaks. Rode on afterwards
about eighteen miles to the Moravian Institution, at
Genadendal. The brethren and sisters received me
very kindly. We arrived about twelve o'clock. As it
was their dinner hour we sat down with them ; they
invited me to say grace, and sit at the head of the table:
but I requested them not to regard my presence ; they
therefore sung their grace as usual, very beautifully.
They gave me the chickens, and Captain Ranier the
ham to carve, I believe, as a mark of respect. After
dinner we went over the establishment, church,
schools, workshop, &c. There are nearly 3,000 souls
altogether in the place, and more than 600 children
in the schools. There are nine young men from
different tribes being educated as teachers, and with
these I was pleased, though the amount of their in-
formation did not seem great. "NVe heard, also, the
boys and girls read and sing, and stayed some time in
the infant school. There are eight brethren, with
their wives and children ; with several of these I
was much pleased, and the more so because they did
not appear to wish to exaggerate the amount of good
.done, or deny the defects of the Institution. Many
of the Dutch, and some of the English find fault
GENADENDAL. 7
with the system as injurious to the farmers. They
complain that they cannot get labourers to remain
with thera more than a month or two. To this I
tliink it must be replied, that, when treated with
kindness and consideration by their masters, they
will be found as willing to live with them as at Ge-
nadendal. Captain Ranier, who lets his people see
that he cares for them, making them comfortable,
and looking after their moral and religious training,
reading the Scriptures to them every morning before
he goes to work, finds no difficulty, and several of
these people are coming to reside on his flirm. The
Missionaries at Genadendal told me that there was
but one genuine Hottentot in the Institution, so
greatly has the race decreased. I was much sur-
prised to find so miserable a library for the brethren's
own use. There were scarcely any valuable books in
it. Would to God the Church in this Colony could
point to a work of equal importance with this, as the
result of her own labours in the cause of Christ
among the Heathen. The Institution is situated in
a broad valley just under the mountains. The Mis-
sionaries are endeavouring to improve the place by
planting. It is a peaceful, quiet spot. I bade fare-
well to it with regret, and promised to visit it again.
The little children ran after our horses some way,
crying out, " Dag our!" " Dag Mynheer!" (Good day,
uncle ; Good day, Sir.) * * We returned to
dinner at Mr. Bayley's, and came home in the dark.
Thursday, Aug. 31. — Rode off in the morning
to the mountains, to see the forests, and to fix upon
8 ZONDEK-ENDE.
a site for the Zonder-Ende Cliurclj. "We had some
fine views from the hills ; ordered some wood to be
cut down for the Church, and paid several visits,
both to the Dutch farmers and English labourers.
All seemed rejoiced at the prospect of a Church, and
promised to contribute to it. We fixed upon a spot
on Linders Farm, where there are 150 coloured
people, and, at no great distance, about the same
number of English people.
Friday, Sept. 1. — Started at half-past six this
morning, in Captain Ranier's carriage, having sent
my wagon on last evening to Mr. Vine's, where we
breakfasted this morning : he has a large family, and
several English labourers ; and all are living without
the public means of grace ; they will, however, be
only six miles from our new Church. After break-
fast we journeyed on, passing through a country in
all respects similar to that we had left ; an open
hilly country, covered with heath and bushes, capa-
ble of sustaining a much larger population than at
present occupies it. A great portion of this land
might be brought under the plough, and the remain-
der would support a great deal more stock than there
is at present upon it. In the distance, the mountains
may be seen stretching all the way to Swellendam.
There are scarcely any trees, but a succession of
slopes and hills. We outspanned at another English
farmer's, Mr, Twentyman, who has also several
Enirlish families, and no Church or Clergyman of
their own within 100 miles. In one of the cottages
we found a poor English child of, we were told,
SWELLENDAM. 9
about twelve years of age, lying in bed, apparently
dying. She did not pray, and said she could not ;
she knew not what prayer was, nor could she i-ead.
We spoke seriously to the parents upon their neglect,
and, poor child ! we all knelt down, and prayed for
her. Pier parents seemed much affected. We were
detained here for some time, Avaiting for some chil-
dren whom their parents anxiously desired us to
baptize. This made us rather late. On the road we
met the post, and received a very kind note from
Dr. Robertson, the zealous Dutch Minister of Svvel-
lendam, inviting me to take up my quarters at his
house during my stay there. He had previously
placed his Church at my disposal, for afternoon service
on Sunday. Tlie only opportunity our people here
have of attending public worship is an afternoon
service, established by Dr. R. especially for the
English people. They have no Church or Clergy-
man of their own within 150 miles. God grant
that my visit there may lead to a change in these
things. Several of our people have joined the Dutch
communion ; but some are, I understand, still anxious
to remain in the bosom of their mother Church, and
have declined to forsake her, even though she seems
to have forsaken them. About ten miles from Swel-
leiidam, and just as it was beginning to grow dusk, we
met Dr. Robertson, who had most kindly driven out
to meet me. We got into his light carriage, and
arrived at his house about eight o'clock, where he had
provided dinner for us, and invited some of the
leading English to meet us. I had a good deal of
10 SWELLENDAM.
conversation with him. He is evidently a very intel-
ligent, earnest, active man, and is most deservedly
respected by every one. Indeed bis cbaracter stands
as bigh as any Dutcb Minister in the Colony. I feel
the great delicacy both of my position, and of the state
of things here in general May God give me grace so
to act and speak, as not in any way to compromise
His truth, nor yet give oifence to those who differ;
and may He dispose the hearts of His people here to
make efforts for the erection of the House of God,
and the support of a fixed IMinistry.
Saturday, Sept. 2. — We held our Meeting
to-day in the vestry of tlie Dutch Reformed Church.
It was not well attended, many of the members of
the Church holding back as I was given to under-
stand, lest their presence should be considered as a
slight upon Dr. Robertson. There was a long discus-
sion as to what was to be done. The circumstances
of this place are very peculiar. The Church peo-
ple have been left entirely to themselves. They
know not how to procure a pastor ; one gentleman
did engage a Clergyman as tutor to his children, but
he did not give satisfaction, or undertake any
pastoral work. A separation soon took place, and
Dr. R. took pupils. He has been the friend, the
adviser, and the minister of our people. There is,
therefore, naturally no sanguine feeling about our
Church people, and they feel timid, and afraid to
act, and w'ish, before committing themselves, to see
how a Clergyman will act. They however formed a
Committee for raising funds, both for Clergyman
SWELLENDAM. 1 1
and Churcli. Upwards of 60/. a-year for five years
was subscribed in the room, and the parties under-
take to raise lOOZ., in the hope that Government
will give another 100/. a-year. At present the
Government School-i'oom will be used for Divine
service. Considerable confidence was expressed that,
if the Clergyman gave satisfaction, a church would
speedily be raised for him ; and I have no doubt
that such would be the case. They fixed on a
plan for the Church. Whoever comes here will
have a very important and difficult post ; he will
need a truly Christian spirit, much judgment and
discretion, activity, zeal, patience, temper — and a
disposition to conciliate, without compromise. Seve-
ral persons applied for confirmation. Dr. Robertson
spoke of them as highly respectable people, and
religiously disposed ; both Mr. Green and myself
therefore undertook to prepare them as well as we
could during the day, and I resolved to hold a con-
firmation to-morrow.
Sunday, Sept. 3. — Dr. Robertson this morning
accepted in a most Christian spirit my excuses for
not attending his services. At twelve o'clock, imme-
diately after the Dutch morning service, we held our
first service ; as we were to hold a second service, of
which only notice had been given at three o'clock, I
was unable to have the full morning service ; I
therefore commenced with the Litany, and after that
confirmed the candidates. We had a table brought
out in front of the pulpit, which served as our
Altar. There was a very respectable congregation,
12 SWELLENDAM.
and they were very attentive. At three o'clock our
service began, of which previous notice had been
given. The Church was full ; we had evening prayer,
and Holy Communion ; I preached ; thirteen com-
municants presented themselves ; most, or all of
those who, having no Minister of their own, are in
the habit of communicating with the Dutch Church,
did not present themselves. Instead of being sur-
prised at this, I am more surprised at the hold
which the Church still has upon the minds of so many
of her children, whom she has utterly abandoned.
I am surprised, I own, to find them under these
circumstances raising 100/. a-year for five years for
a Clergyman, readily and cheerfully. May God in
His mercy raise up a faithful zealous pastor for this
long-neglected portion of the vineyard. My visit
here has been a most interesting — most painfully
interesting one.
Monday, Sept. 4. — I trust there is some chance
of our getting two Clergymen here— one for tliis
place, and one for Port Beaufort, to educate Mr.
Barry's children, and others ; and to minister to
the people there, and at Riversdale. I have also
engaged to furnish the plans for a small Church
there. We started this morning in Mr. Barry's cart,
having sent our wagon on, and breakfasted with
Captain Buchanan, who has a very pretty place,
just facing the mountains. '" * * *
Tuesday, Sept. 5. — Started at six in the morning ;
outspanned at nine, lighted a fire on the grass,
and had breakfast. I enjoyed our primitive mode
RIVERSDALE. 13
of living very much. Arrived at Riversdale about
one o'clock. The village is prettily situated, and
is increasing rapidly ; our whole route to-day lay
through the same kind of country as before ; but
the hills are more beautiful, rising one above another
with a fine mountainous background. I observe the
heaths are beginning to blow. The acting Magis-
trate, Mr. Hudson, rode out, with an English gentle-
man, about three miles to meet us, and we found
comfortable quarters at Villiers. There were only
three persons at our Meeting, these three gentlemen
having resolved themselves into a Committee for the
erection of a Church and supply of a Clergyman ;
but it was determined in the first instance to raise a
sufficient sum to entitle them to have service once a
month from the Clergyman of Port Beaufort and
Swellendara, and they thought they could raise 60/.
a-year. After the Meeting we went into the village
to call upon the English people, and made out that
there were about 100. Some of them seemed very
respectable people, and most anxious for a Clergy-
man. We also inspected the Government School,
where there were ten children. The coloured chil-
dren are not allowed to come till three o'clock, when
the white are dismissed ; were this not done, the
Dutch would withdraw their children. We called
on the Dutch Clergyman, who seemed a respectable
man. I was unwilling to quit this village without
some religious service, our people having no Church
of their own within 200 miles. I therefore sent
Mr. Green after dinner to ask for the use of the
14 GOARITZ RIVER.
magistrate's office., and we let the English people
know that there would be evening prayer and
sermon at half-past seven. We had a full room ; Mr.
Green read the prayers, and I preached to them
extempore for half-an-hour ; they were very at-
tentive.
Wednesday, Sept. 6. — Left Riversdale at six
o'clock this morning ; breakfasted at a Dutch farm,
La Grange (two hours) ; outspanned at Tiger Fon-
tein (two hours) ; slept at Gronge's Stink River
(four hours). The country, in its general features,
was very similar to what we had passed through.
In some parts, however, as at the Goaritz River,
(which really is a river,) it is more beautiful, though
there is a great want of trees. The natural roads
are for the most part excellent, though in many places
very rough. At the Goai-itz River we all had to
keep the wagon from rolling over, by pulling it
straight with a rope. We are very fortunate in the
beautiful weather we have had ; one day's rain would
probably have kept us several days on the banks of
this river. We cannot, therefore, be too thankful for
the lovely weather we have enjoyed. I have now
been out a fortnight, and every day has been fine.
We have passed very few houses : the land, however,
is clearly capable of bearing a much larger popula-
tion, and all that is wanting is capital and industry.
Thursday, Sept. 7. — Passed a sleepless and excited
night. I had hoped air and exercise, and fatigue,
were restoring my nerves, but I find I am not so well
as I imagined. Started at nine for Mossel Bay,
MOSSEL BAT. lo
where we arrived at half-past twelve o'clock. About
seven miles from the bay we were met by Mr. Marsh,
the resident mngistrate, Mr. Van Reynen, the Dutch
Minister, and Mr. . No one else came to meet
us, Mr. Marsh having invited all the principal resi-
dents to a sumptuous tiffin. He told me most of the
English were, he thought, Dissenters ; but falling in
with a Mr. Elliot before dinner, who I understood
was a Churchman, I soon found from him that there
were many people who were anxious for a Church and
Minister. He told me he would guarantee 100/.
a-year to a Clergyman, provided he would take
pupils. I encouraged him to form a committee, to
raise the means for Church and Pastor ; the committee
to correspond with me, and memorialize Government
for 100/. a-year. I doubt not I shall soon hear from
him on the subject. We left at four, and arrived
about half-past five at Class Neegers Hartenbosch.
The situation of INIossel Bay is very beautiful.
The bay itself is a fine one ; and the mountains
which surround it, and lie at the back of George, are
bold and commanding. Upon leaving the bay, the
valley and river of Hartenbosch opened out very
beautifully ; and as the sun was just setting, and
there was a little rain, we had before us a scene very
like one of Claude's. After taking a lesson in Dutch,
by reading the Testament with some of the family
here, we retired early to prepare for our journey on
the morrow.
Friday, Sept. 8. — We had a magnificent view of
the mountains, with the early sun upon them, this
16 GEOKGE.
morning, during the first part of our day to the Great
Braack lliver, where we outspanncd, and lighted our
fire for a country breakfast, the freedom and inde-
pendence of which we greatly enjoyed. Afterwards
we ascended the hills before us by a near road,
through a fine part of the valley. The roads in this
part of the country are being fast improved. What
is most wanting is the bridging of the rivers; many
of those we have passed would, with a little rain, be
so swollen as to detain travellers for daysj'even as it
is our horses were on several occasions nearly com-
pelled to swim. The road from these hills to George
lies over a flat uncultivated country. I was disap-
pointed in the appearance of George, which is a long
straggling village, containing about 2,000 souls. There
is a large ugly unfinished Dutch church, to which Go-
vernment has just given 1,000/., a Romish chapel,
and at least one other of no definite sect. Mr. Scott the
English Clergyman, Mr. Aspinel the Civil Commi.s-
sioner, and several other gentlemen were waiting to
receive us. We had very comfortable quarters at a
lodging-house ; a good many people called, and as we
had an hour or two to spare, and I knew not when
we .should have another, I went to return their calls,
to look into the schools, and to see some of the
members of the English Church, Mr. Scott accom-
panying us. He afterwards dined with us, and we
took tea at his house : on returning to our lodgings
I found Mr. Dulhie had arrived from the Knysna,
accompanied by Mr. Bull, the Catechist of the place,
to conduct me to his house.
GEORGE. 17
Saturday, Sept. 9. — A sleepless night, notwith-
standing a strong opiate, from the excitement of
yestei-day, consequently I felt very stupid all day.
At eleven o'clock, we held our Confirmation in the
])utcli Church ; 35 were confirmed. I was pleased
with their reverent and devout manner ; some seemed
much affected. After service was over we held a
meeting in the Court-house about our new Cliurch.
It was well attended, and a plan for the Church
was adopted, though the funds as yet contributed
are not sufiicient for its erection. I also brought
under the notice of the meeting the Church
Society we have just formed, and distributed copies
of the rules. We cannot, however, expect many
contributions to general purposes while local efforts
are so greatly required ; but I trust that, when
our Churches are built, we shall be able to raise
funds for Missions, Churches, Schools, &c. Being
unable to cross in the afternoon, owing to the rain, to
see the Montagu Pass, I spent my time in writing,
and in visiting a few more of our Church people.
* * * *
I grieve to see the heart-burnings and strife which
exist between the English and Dutch communion in
this place.
Sunday, Sept. 10. — Preached this morning iu
the Dutch Church to an excellent congregation ;
administered the Holy Communion to about twenty-
five persons : spoke plainly, but affectionately to
them upon their own want of love, and earnestly
entreated them to cultivate a spirit of charity. In
c
18 GEORGE. PAKALSDORP.
the afternoon I examined Mr. Scott's Sunday School,
and in tlie evening preached again to about two
hundred Dutch and English. The people seemed
very attentive, and most of the Dutch understand the
English language.
Monday, Se])t.l\. — * * * *
After breakfast, I went to examine the Government
School, but had not time to go through it. I thought
their religious knowledge very imperfect. My wagon
being pronounced too weak for the Knysna roads,
I was obliged to hire another, which was taken out
by oxen, which were kindly furnished by several
gentlemen. We started on horseback about eleven,
accompanied by several gentlemen, who wished to
ride part of the way with us. We went a little way
out of our road to visit the Missionary Institution of
Pakalsdorp. There are about 750 souls here, living
as usual in mud or wattle huts ; from 150 to 200
of these have been baptized, the remainder are still
Heathen, though many of them attend the public
services Avhich the Missionaries hold. I here found
the most Church-like looking edifice I have seen in
the Colony. It has a tower of very respectable pro-
portions, and is built entirely of stone, and without
a covering of plaster, which disfigures every other
Church I have yet seen. There is an old Missionary
here with his daughter, and a younger Missionary ;
the old man is 80, and past working. The universal
opinion in this neighbourhood is, that the time has
come for giving up these institutions, and allowing
them to merge into the parochial system ; but I am
BELVIDERE. KNYSNA. 19
inclined to think that a few years must first elapse,
allowing for a considerable increase of Clergymen
during that period. There are two schools here,
but the children had gone to their dinners. The
Institution is built on Government land, a consider-
able tract of which they are allowed the use of.
The London Missionary Society also, whose agents
they are, possesses, adjoining to the Institution, a farm
of about 10,000 acres of land. After leaving this,
we rode over hill and dale, and tlirough some tine
wooded valleys and rivers, to Mr. Dumbleton's, u
distance of about 20 miles : much of the country
put me in mind of our Yorkshire coast, but we have
not in England the fine range of mountains which
accompanied us all the way on our left. After
arriving at Mr. D.'s, I walked out with him for a
mile or two to look at some lakes, formed partly
by the sea, and partly by rivers : the scenery was
picturesque, but they are by no means equal to our
English lakes.
Tuesday, Sept. 12. — Left Mr. D.'s after break-
fast, and rode through a beautiful country, thirty
miles to Mr. Duthie's, at Belvidere, on the banks
of the Knysna : our route lay at first along the
borders of the chain of lakes which I saw yesterday.
We had some very beautiful views of them up and
down from several points. After leaving them we
travelled through a sandy valley, covered with heatii,
geranium, and a variety of flowers not yet fully blown,
till we arrived at a forest. Here I found liner tim-
ber than I had yet seen in the Colony. The yellow
20 ISELVIDERE. KXYSXA.
tree, a most useful wood fur building purposes, grows
to a large size, and is a very picturesque tree ; it is
usually covered witli a kind of pendant moss, which
improves its appearance. Here also we found the
wild vine growing over forest trees, and spreading
its arms like the vine when cultivated. It is, how-
ever, a different plant, and produces a sour kind of
fruit, which is preserved like the cherry in brandy,
and is used instead of currant jelly. The forest too
was covered with a kind of sapling which shoots from
the ground, and lays hold on the branches of great
trees. It has the appearance of a thick rope fasten-
ing the trees to the ground, and is called the monkey
ladder. The forest abounds with monkeys and
baboons, but we did not see any. The Castor-oil
plant grows here in great abundance ; I observed
several new flowers, none of them however of any
great beauty. We crossed several rivers, some of
which were deep, their banks are high and rocky,
and well wooded. In one my horse was nearly driven
to swim, tlie Avater pouring over the tops of my horse-
guard boots. We arrived about sunset at Belvidere,
and had a beautiful view of the Knysna : here there
is a fine sheet of water, which forms the basin of a
harbour, but the beauty of the scene is somewhat
spoiled by the low land which rises up in several
places, giving the lake the appearance of being
marshy. The harbour would I believe be a fine
one, were it not for the entrance which is very
narrow, and lies between high rocks. I like, how-
ever, what I have seen of this neighbourhood very
PORTLANDS. 21
much ; it is a fine country, and has great capabilities ;
it is better wooded too than any part of the Colony I
have yet seen. Mr. Duthie's house borders on the
lake, and has a beautiful prospect before it. Mr.
Bull (catechist) who is also tutor to Mr. D.'s chil-
dren, is happily situated in this excellent family, and
is esteemed by all for his zeal and earnestness.
Wednesdatf, Sept. 13. — After breakfast this morn-
ing we rode in a heavy rain to Portlands, ten miles,
where Mr. Bull had fixed for me to hold a service ;
and vv^here he had some candidates for baptism. The
place is one of his monthly stations. Mr. Duthie
dressed me out in a very long Mackintosh, and I
exchanged my hat for an oil-skin jockey cap, which
had no very episcopal appearance. Notwithstanding
all, however, I soon got wet. The country we passed
tlirough Avas very beautiful, and we had some good
views of the water, as the weather partially cleared
up. There were about thirty persons present, most
of them coloured, to whom I preached extempore,
as simply as I could, from Ephes. ii. 1 — 5 : we
returned to Belvidere by four o'clock, and we had
another service in the evening, when I again
preached : we had also an adult heathen prepared
for baptism by Mr. Bull, whom I baptized.
Thursday/ Sept. 14. — After breakfast walked out
with Mr. Duthie, to determine upon the site of the
Belvidere Church. We fixed upon a beautiful spot,
commanding a very fine viev/ of the lake. Mr.
Duthie also gives land for a parsonage. We de-
cided upon one of Butterfield's plans for the Church,
22 PLETTENBERG DAT,
which is to hold 100 ; but is capable of enlargement.
At one o'clock, four gentlemen came over from tlie
other side, dressed in their Jerseys, and with flags
flying, to row me over the lake. As we arrived at
Melville various flags were hoisted. After calling
upon several of the inhabitants we rode out, a tolera-
bly large party, to Mr. Rex, and thence to Mr.
Sutherland's, to dine and sleep.
Friday, Sept. 15. — We started early this morning
for Plettenberg Bay, where I am to hold two ser-
vices, and fix upon the site of the Church. The
morning service, when I preached, was held in Mr.
Newdigate's house : no notice had been given, but
we had about twenty persons present. After service
we rode to Captain Sinclair's at the bay, fur after-
noon service ; but as no notice had been given here,
it Avas found impossible to collect the people, and
we walked on to Capt. Ilarker's, at the Residency,
where I was to dine and sleep. The country be-
tween the Knysiia and Plettenberg Bay is well
wooded and very hilly, and I think as fine a part of
the Colony as any that I have yet seen. I observed
here the India-rubber tree growing in one or two
gardens. 'Mr. Newdigate's farm is situated in a lovely
valley.
Saturday, Sept. 16. — Walked out early with Capt.
Harker, over the Residency farm. The house has a
famous hall which as a church would hold 200
people. After breakfast we mounted our horses, to
return to Melville, where I had appointed the public
meeting to be held. We had a very warm ride of
MELVILLE. 23
twenty miles ; our meeting, which was well attended,
passed off most satisfactorily. We shall, I trust, ere
long have three churches in this parish, one at Bel-
videre, one at Melville, and one at Ivnysna. The
Melville Church, for which I have furnished the
plans, is to be begun immediately, and a further
subscription is to be raised for the support of the
Clergyman. It already amounts to about 50/. Mr.
Sutherland, who has built a school here, has applied
to me for a teacher. I trust I may soon be able
to send both Clergyman and Schoobnaster to this
district. In the evening we returned to Mr. Suther-
land's, who had invited a large party of the neigh-
bouring gentlemen to meet us.
Sunday, Sept. 17. — A sleepless night — feverish
from the extreme heat of yesterday. This day was
also extremely warm. After breakfast, I walked
to the school which Mr. Sutherland has just built,
and where our services are held for the present, a
distance of about three miles. The school-room was
decked out with flowers, and was soon filled to over-
flowing with a devout congregation. I observed no
less than nine wagons, several of the Dutch families
having come in for our services. I confirmed 27
persons, chiefly adults, who had been very carefully
prepared by Mr. Bull ; many both males and females
were deeply aflfected, and all, I believe, felt that the
services were exceedingly interesting; certainly a
very solemn feeling pervaded our assembly. I could
not help expressing my gratitude to God for the
sight before me. A congregation of 130 souls,
24 avoxtkdp:r. lange kloof.
30 communicants, 27 candidates for confirmation,
where only a few months before there were no pub-
lic means of grace, no Clergyman within 150 miles,
no Church within 350. In the afternoon, we had
another full congregation. I jireached and bap-
tized several children after the second lesson.
Blondaji, Sept. 18. — Rose at five o'clock this
morning, intending, if possible, to reach Mr. Son-
tag's farm at Avonteuer in the Lange Kloof by even-
ing, but doubtful whether we could accomplish it.
We started a party of about twelve, several gentle-
men being anxious to accompany us part of the way,
and ]\Ir. George Rex and Mr. Sutherland intending
to proceed the whole way with us. After about an
hour's journey we arrived at the Queen's forest,
through which we were to pass by a road or path
recently cut out by the road commissioners, under
the direction of IMr. Sutherland. Here most of the
gentlemen took leave of us. I could not part from
them without thanking them, warmly and sincerely,
for their kind attentions and hospitality during my
short visit amongst them. From the time that I
arrived at George till the hour I reached Avonteuer,
I have never moved without being attended by one
or more of these gentlemen : others have sent their
oxen for my wagon, and I have not been permitted
to be at any expense while amongst them. After
parting from our kind friends, we dived into the
forest, which extends a distance of many miles.
Where we crossed it, it Avas eleven miles broad.
The timber in this forest is very fine, and has for the
queen's fouest, 25
most part probably never been touched since the
creation. Here and there we saw huge trees lying
about and perfectly rotten ; others still standing
were of a very large girth. The chief kind of wood
were the Assegai iron tree, stink wood, yellow
wood, ash, white elm. The stink Avood is, when cut
into, perfectly black. The yellow wood is by far
the largest tree, and is of immense size. We saw
no wild animals, though the forest abounds in ele-
phants, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, wild boars, &c.
We saw the spoor of the elephant, and his tracks,
and we met a farmer Avho had seen three on Friday,
and Sir. Sutherland saw five on his return a day or
two after in the forest. A thunderstorm came on,
and the lightning was very vivid ; one flash came
close to us, and this, with the instantaneous clap of
thunder, so frightened our horses that they bounded
under us and ran away, Mr. Green's horse throwing
him. After emerging from the forest, the weather
cleared up, and we found ourselves in an open
country, amidst heath bush ten or twelve feet high,
with magnificent views all around us. The picture,
indeed, was very striking, the clouds hanging round
the mountains showed them to the best advantage,
and the effect of light and shade was very beautiful.
After riding about five hours we came to a farm,
where fresh horses had been provided for us : we
tlien proceeded over a totally different country from
that which we had just left. For the x-est of the day
we scarce saw a tree, but passed over several distinct
ranges of mountains. Here the scenery was very
26 AVONTEDEU.
wild and magnificent, and put me more in mind of
some parts of vSwitzerland, than any other portion of
the Colony I have yet seen. Night overtook us in
the mountains, and we did not arrive at Avon-
teuer till eight o'clock in the evening, and then
found that our wagon, which had left for Avonteuer
on Friday, had not yet arrived. Here we learnt
that we had a second mercy to be thankful for, on
this day. Mr. had set three spring guns on
the very path by which we reached his house, to
shoot a tiger which has of late been destroying his
flocks. This has been to me one of the most in-
teresting days I have passed in the Colony. Let me
feel thankful to Almighty God, that I am able to
endure so much fatigue as I have done in this long
day's journey, without suffering from it.
Tuesday/, Sept. 19. — Rose early this morning to
visit the Missionary Institution at Avonteuer, be-
longing to the London Society. The Missionary's
name is Mr. Hood, who is at the same time school-
master, doctor, and farmer. He seems an intelligent
and right-minded man. There are about 500 people
of all ages connected with the establishment, which
is conducted on somewhat different principles from
any that I have yet seen. The people have an allot-
ment of about three acres of garden or arable land,
which is leased to them for twenty years, with a
right of renewal, at a rent of thirty shillings a year.
Upon this they build their own houses ; they have
in addition a right of pasturage over the farm, and
others pay ten shillings a year for a smaller allot-
LANGE KLOOF. 27
ment. This Institution, like all the rest, is very
unpopular with the farmers, chiefly on the score of
their inability to get labourers from them. The
right is retained by the Institution of dismissing im-
proper characters, who are however entitled to com-
pensation for improvements. I find I shall not be
able to visit either the London IMissionary Society's
Institution at Hankey, or the Moravian at Clarkson,
as they both lie out of my way, and I am anxious to
be at Uitenhage on Saturday. We drove through
the Lange Kloof, which is a valley between mountains,
through abominable roads to Rademeger, at Lond-
water, where we slept. Here I found a schoolmas-
ter who, as is frequently the case in country parts in
the Colony, v/as engaged in teaching several Dutch
farmers' families. Mr. Scott, of George, wrote to
me some time since about receiving him into the
Church. He was brought up a Roman Catholic, but
partly through reading the Scriptures, partly the
Prayer Book, and partly Blunt's Lectures on the
Articles, became convinced of the errors of the
Church of Rome. He had been most anxious to be
confirmed by me at George, but v/as taken ill upon
the road ; I therefore confirmed him this evening,
and gave him some Prayer Books, out of which he
has been in the habit of teaching his Dutch pupils,
and whicli he uses in performing service on Sun-
days ; wliicli he has been in the habit of doing. The
poor man seemed very thankful, and very earnest
about himself, and is a striking instance of the
way in which God makes up by extraordinary
28 LAXGi: KLOOF. ST. FRANCIS V.XY.
methods the grace that cannot be supplied by orili-
nary means. Mr. Scott spoke very well of him, as
did Mr. George Rex, who knew him well.
Wednesday, Sept. 20. — An early start at six
o'clock. Our road still lay through the Lange Kloof,
and was, if possible, worse than our yesterday's
route. The only object of interest to-day w^as the
sight of some Kaffir cranes, which are elegant and
beautiful birds. About themidille of the davAve passed
from the Lange Kloof to the Kronime River, and
at the same time from the George to the Uitenhage
district. We passed several farms, with a scattered
population. The general features of the country are
like yesterday's — a valley lying between high and
bare hills.
Thursday, Sept. 21. — Rose at five ; out.spanned
for breakfast at ten o'clock at E-chenbosch. Roads
still very bad ; country somewhat tarae. Outspanned
again at two at Moulinans, and arrived at six at
Human, where we slept. The weather is still beau-
tiful, and our roads have greatly improved, the
country not having been torn up by the rains.
Friday, Sept. 22. — Breakfasted this morning at
Captain Boys', St. Francis Bay. He and his sister
Mrs, Macintosh, with their families, are separated
from the public means of grace by a distance of fifty
miles. Captain Boys reads on Sundays the service
of the Church. They seemed anxious about a Clergy-
man, and the education of their children. I baptized
their youngest child. Captain Boys rode on with us
to Mr. Barnard's, where we had luncheon. The
UITEXHAGE. 29
country this day has been flat and uninteresting, till
we passed the Kamtoos river, when we entered
upon a hilly and well wooded country ; we crossed
the Kamtoos by a ferry ; the wind blowing strong,
and the tide rolling in, Ave had a somewhat rough
passage ; we slept at Field-Cornet Newkirk's.
Saturday, Sept. 23. — The first part of this day's
journey was performed with oxen, the road being
very difficult and precipitous ; the views, however,
were very beautiful, especially in passing the Kloof
Bosch river. After passing through a well wooded
and mountainous country for two hours, we arrived
at an extensive plain, on which we outspanned for
breakfast, near a muddy stream, which supplied us
with water for our tea. This plain continued till
^ve arrived near Uitenhage, which lies very prettily
just under the hills. We reached our very comfort-
able quarters at about half-past one, accompanied by
the civil commissioners, Mr. Bennett and Mr. Cope-
man, who had ridden out to meet us. We w^alked
in the afternoon about the village, to fix upon a site
for the Church ; and my evening was spent in re-
plying to the large packet of lettei'S which I found
awaiting my arrival.
Sunday, Sept. 24. — Our service in the morning
was held as usual in the Court House, where aboutlOO
Avere present. I preached from Luke xiv. 27. " And
whosoever doth not bear his cross, and come after
me, cannot be my disciple." In the evening Ave held
service in the Dutch Church, which I Avas informed
would be lent if Avished. I preached again to a large
30 CITENHAGE.
and attentive congregation. My motive in using
tlie Dutch Church was the hope that it might lead
to a kindlier state of feeling than, unhappily, exists
in this place.
Monduy, Sept. 25. — We held our Confirmation
this morning at 12 o'clock in the Dutch Church. There
■were fourteen candidates, a very small number consi-
dering the amount of the English population here. The
Church was quite full, and many of the poor coloured
people were standing round the door. I grieve that
the prejudices which exist so strongly in other parts
of the Colony, with respect to the coloured people,
should be found here also, and that they should not
be admitted to worship together witli their white
brethren, and to partake of all Christian ordinances
Avith them. The feeling which keeps them at a dis-
tance is utterly unchristian, and those who indulge
in it cannot look for God's blessing. At two o'clock
I attended the Meeting of the parishioners, of Avhich
I had given notice in the Town Hall. I brought
before them the sulyect of their Church, Clergyman's
stipend, Churchyard, Church Society, &c. * * *
Dined in the evening at Mr. Tennant's, civil com-
missioner, who had invited a party of gentlemen to
meet me.
Tuesday, Sept. 26.— -^^ * * *
At four o'clock I hehl a Jleeting of the Church
Building Committee, when I laid before them my
suggestions as to the course to be immediately
])ursu(.'d with reference to the Church, and their
Minister's stipend ; and also with relation to some
BETHELSDORF. PORT ELIZABETH. 31
Other points. These were unanimously adopted,
and will, I trust, be shortly acted upon. Dined
in the evening with the Judge, who came into
the village this morning on circuit, and called to
invite me.
Wednesday, Sept. 27. — Wrote letters very early.
After breakfast I Avent with Mr. Copeman to
examine the Dutch School, and the Government
School. Paid a short visit to the Court ; then made
some calls ; and started at one o'clock for Port
Elizabeth. In our way visited the Missionary In-
stitution at Bethelsdorf. The Society here (London)
have about 24,000 acres of land. The village con-
sists of about 300 people, who have no other employ-
ment than attending to their cattle, there being
seai-cely any land fit to be cultivated on the farm.
People seem to be dissatisfied with it. * * *
We arrived at Port Elizabeth before six, and met
Mr. M'Cleland, Mr. Ilerries, Mr. Frere, &c., who
were waiting to receive us. Port Elizabeth has
more of the appearance of an English place than any
we have seen since we left Capetown ; it reminds
me forcibly of some of the new settlements spring-
ing up in so many places in our mother land, and is
evidently rapidly rising in importance. I felt quite
cheered at seeing anything so English ; but my
spirits were soon cast down by hearing that Church
matters were not in a comfortable state.
Thursday, Sept. 28.— Early part of day spent in
receiving visitors, surveying the town, with a view
to the selection of sites for future Church, Schools,
32 PORT ELIZABETH.
parsonage, <fc:c. At four o'clock attended a Meeting of
the vestry ; decided that I could not, under present
circumstances, consecrate either Church or church-
yard.
Friday, Sept. 29. — Day spent in receiving the
members of the Church, and calling upon them ;
also endeavouring to settle some unfortunate diflfer-
ences which exist here, in which I trust I have been
in some measure successful. Laus Deo. Dined
with Mr. M'Cleland.
Saturday, Sept. 30. — This morning made some
few more calls; at twelve o'clock held a Confirmation;
fifty-two candidates presented themselves. There
were fifty-three, but one at the last moment was
unable to utter the solemn words " I do." I was
glad to find that conscience withheld him, and trust
it may please God to bring him to confess Christ
before men at some future day. Our Confirmation
here, as evei'ywhere, is, I trust, likely to prove
a blessing. Some Dissenters had issued a very
bitter tract against the Church in general, and the
holy service in particular, which had been distri-
buted from house to house during my stay here.
This probably drew a larger congregation, for our
Church was full ; and I b(ilieve all felt the reality
and solemnity of the sacred ceremony, so that we
have no cause to regret the attack made upon us.
After the Confirmation, I held a meeting of the
members of the Church in the Town Hall, and sub-
mitted to them my views of their wants, and the
method of supplying them. These related to the
PORT ELIZABETH. 33
erection of a school, and another cliurch, and the
supply of an additional Clergyman ; I trust in due
time all these things may be secured ; I also drew
their attention to the Church Society ; and assigned
to them my reasons for not being able to consecrate
either church or churchyard during this Visitation.
I trust that before I come again the church and
churchyard will be duly conveyed to the See, and a
wall built round the latter.
Sunday, Oct. 1. — We had a crowded church this
morning ; I preached from Matt. xxvi. 41. There
were about seventy-five communicants ; many of
them were deeply affected, and shed tears. In the
afternoon I attended the Sunday School. The
children of this school have long been in the habit
of contributing to pious objects. They made offer-
ings for the lepers, while the institution was in their
neighbourhood. Afterwards they supported a blind
man. They were at a loss to know what next to
contribute to. About six months since, when my
pastoral letter came out, ordering collections for the
Missions to the Heathen, the children then all re-
solved that they would support the Bishop's Missions,
and to-day they brought me their offerings, amounting
to \l. 14s. I addressed the children on the subject
of missions, and affectionately urged them, while
endeavouring to bring the Heathen to Christ, them-
selves to live as His true disciples. Afterwards I
examined them in the Catechism, and was pleased
with their answers ; and then I spoke to the Sunday
Schoolteacher. In the evening we had again a very
D
34 SUNDAY RIVER.
full Church, when I preached to them from 2 Cor. iv.
3, 4 : " But if our Gospel be hid, it is hid to them that
are lost : in whom the God of this world hath blinded
the minds of them which believe not, lest the light
of the glorious gospel of Christ, who is the image
of God, should shine unto them." The old and zea-
lous clerk said the church had never been so full
before, nor had there been so many communicants.
May God bless the services of the day to the good
of the souls of this people.
Monday, Oct. 2. — I put off my hour of departure
this morning from six to eight o'clock, as several
gentlemen kindly expressed a wish to accompany me
on horseback a short distance from the town. Ac-
cordingly, at our hour of departure, the Civil Com-
missioner, Commander of Troops, Collector of Cus-
toms, Hon. Mr. Herries, and several other gentlemen
appeared to escort us ; and some others, who were
unable to do so, came to Mr. Herries, who has most
hospitably entertained me, to bid me farewell. I
leave Port Elizabeth with a lighter heart than I
entered it with, and not without hope that I may,
ere long, see a new cliurch, and a second Clergyman
there. We slept at a very comfortable English inn
at the Sunday River, about thirty-five miles distant
from the Bay. I brought Mr. M'Cleland with me
in my wagon, for our meeting at Graham's Town.
Tuesday, Oct. 'd. — This is my birth-day. I have
now completed my thirty-ninth year. I\Iay I not
forget how rapidly time is passing, and eternity
approaching. May I live daily as one who is shortly
SUNDAY PaVER. 35
to give up his account to God ! I daily feel more
keenly my own insufficiency for the great charge
entrusted to me. God give me wisdom, faith-
fulness, zeal, meekness, humility, love, patience,
firmness, that I may be able to exercise my high
office aright ! I often think that when the rough
work shall be over, and there may be a call for one
possessing higher qualifications than myself, I shall
be laid aside, and another better qualified to exercise
the higher and more important functions of the epis-
copate be raised up. I pray of God to dispose of me
in any way (whether by life or by death), that may
best serve for the promotion of His glory, the exten-
sion of the kingdom of my ever-blessed Redeemer,
and the salvation of the souls for whom He died. I
wish to live not a day longer than I can serve Him.
This morning, at dawn of day, a little past five,
had my first bath in Afi'ican water, taking a swim
with Green in the Sunday River. I found no harm
result to my head from it. We drove through a
bushy country, in which the Kaffirs have, during
their inroads, frequently concealed themselves for a
considerable time. While outspanning for breakfast,
Mr. M'Cleland fell in with a poor Hottentot in
great distress : for three days the oxen of his wagon
had strayed ; his master had gone in search of them,
and had been out two nights ; he had just found him
ravins; with delirium on the bank of a hill about an
hour off. An English farmer and some Hottentots
had refused to assist him ; and he was without pro-
visions, with a wagon full of gunpowder, and fast
36 SIDDURY,
giving way to despair. We went with him to look
for his master, and found him, as he described him,
■with his wooden leg, at some distance. With diffi-
culty we got him to his wagon ; I gave him some
medicine, and afterwards some breakfast ; and he fell
asleep under a bush. We told the poor Hottentot,
who cried with excitement and gratitude, not to let
him move till we sent oxen, to fetch them, from the
first farm. At Quagga flat we fell in with an Eng-
lish shopkeeper who undertook to see to them, and
we hired some oxen for them. Mr. Thorpe came to
meet us at the Bushman river. We dined with the
Judge at Sidbury. The church here is neat, though
not correct in point of architecture. It has never
been finished, and has, I believe, not been cleaned
since it was used as a fort, in the Kaffir war. AVe
sent some people to clean the church, Avhom ^Mr.
Green assisted.
Wednesduy, Oct. 4. — I confirmed four coloured
children this morning. At one o'clock I held a meet-
ing of the parishioners. « * *
TJnimthiy, Oct. 5. — * * * Intimated my
intention of making alterations in the boundary of the
parish, which is hereafter to include Assegai Bush,
Quagga flat, and Elephant's Iloek, where there are
250 English. At half-past ten recommenced our
journey. Our route lay over a hilly, uninteresting
country, devoid of wood, and with little bush till we
came to Howison's Poort, which is a pretty valley.
We arrived in Graham's Town about five o'clock. I
like the appearance of the town, which is situated in a
Graham's toavn. 37
basin. I took a little walk round it before dinner.
Cliurch well situated, but miserable in point of archi-
tecture. The Kaffir boom abounds in the towns ; the
tree is a very beautiful one, nearly as large as the
oak, and covered with a rich red flower. I soon heard
here that Sir H. Smith was to meet the Kaffir chiefs
on Saturday. I determined, if possible, to be there
too. The distance is eighty-five miles from Graham's
Town, and some thought it impossible I should
reach the place in time ; but I remembered Sir H.
Smith had, in this colony, ridden 100 miles a day
for a week, and determined not to give it up. After
dinner Mr. Heavyside and myself went to call upon
Captain Somerset, Brigade Major, Avho kindly pro-
mised to furnish us with hoi'ses, and give us an order
for relays upon the road. We then went to the
Judge, to excuse ourselves from dining with him,
which we had engaged to do. * *
Friday, Oct. 6.- — Rose at four this morning,
and ready for a start at five ; our horses, however,
were not quite punctual ; my dress was anything but
episcopal : white hat, leathers, and jack-boots, but
it is impossible to be punctilious in these matters, on
occasions like the present. Capt. Somerset accom-
panied us a few miles : our first stage was to Trum-
peter's Drift, where there is an officer with twenty
men ; distance 33 miles : we arrived at ten o'clock,
and had a cup of tea, and some bread and butter.
Plere we got fresh horses, and arrived at Fort
Peddle about one, distance 14 miles. After leaving
Trumpeter's Drift, our horses had to swim the Great
38 FORT PEDDIE.
Fish River, and we found ourselves amongst the
hills in a very bushy country, tlie scene of several
contests between our troops and the Kaffirs. In one
place we saw the scorched rocks where several of our
wagons were burnt by the Kaffirs,when they took forty-
three of them. The officer in command at Trumpe-
ter's Drift, pointed out this, and several other spots
interesting to us on similar accounts. Among the
hills we found the wild jasmine, a larger flower than
the English, and equally sweet-scented ; Strelitzia
Regina, and several other beautiful flowers ; also
the wild asparagus, preferred by many to the culti-
vated plant. After ascending the hills we had an
excellent road over the plains, and performed the
greater part of our remaining journey at a hand
gallop, which, notwithstanding the day was rather
warm, I felt very exhilarating. At Fort Peddie we
got some luncheon with Mr. Walters, son of Mr.
"Walters of Newcastle. The resident magistrate called
upon me, and I had some conversation about a church
and Clergyman ; two individuals oflfered 201. each
towards a church ; I requested him to have a list of
contributors prepared for me on my return on Mon-
day ; also a plan of the village and country, that I
might get a grant of land from the Governor : I
arranged to hold a service at ten o'clock on Monday
morning in the barrack-room, used also by the
Methodists as a Chapel. At two o'clock we started
again on fresh horses in full gallop, ]\Ir. Walters ac-
companying us ; we stopped for a few minutes at the
Kaffir police station. There were 30 men here with
KING -William's tottn. 39
their wives (some of them have two or tliree) and
children. They were a very fine well-proportioned
set of men, and are employed to recover cattle stolen
by their countrymen. While in our pay they are
very faithful ; there are altogether more than 200
of them on the frontier, who with their families must
exceed 1,000 souls. Nothing is done for their reli-
gious improvement or the education of their children,
except by occasional visits from the Wesleyan Mis-
sionary. They were smoking and laughing, and
seemed much amused with our visit to them. We
arrived about half-past three o'clock at Line Drift,
where we obtained fresh horses. This station is
close by the Keiskamma river, which was low to-day,
but exhibited manifest proofs of being at times
swollen to a great height. We passed during the day
by several Fingoe villages ; their huts are like pikes
of hay, rather rotten. The Keiskamma divides the
Colony from Ivaffraria : the Kraal of the Kaffir,
several of which we passed, is very similar to the
village of the Fingoe. We arrived in King William's
Town at seven o'clock in the evening, and found the
place illuminated by bonfires : we reported ourselves
immediately to Col. Mackinnon, who kindly ofFei'ed
me a bed, but we accepted a similar offer from Capt.
Bissen, who could accommodate us both. I soon
dressed, and after taking tea, went to see the Gover-
nor, whom I was rejoiced to find well. I am very
thankful that I came here. The officers have presented
a memorial to the Governor about a Church ; he has
promised them 201. The Wesleyans ax-e making
40 KING William's town.
great efforts ; tliey, too, presented a memori;il to liis
Excellency. I understand two out of the three who
presented it said they were Churchmen, until they
despaired of anything being done by the Church. I
had a good deal of conversation with the officers
about the Church, and some grants of land for which
I shall apply ; I encouraged them in their good
work, with promises of assistance. I do not feel in
the least tired with my day's work, but poor Mr.
H. seems very much fatigued.
Saturday, Oct. 7.— The meeting of the Kaffir
chieftains was fixed for twelve o'clock this day, but
from an early hour in the morning they came pour-
ing in with their trains of followers, some on horse-
back, others on foot, through the various roads which,
from different parts of the country, meet at King
AVilliam's Town. Their appearance, dressed in their
dirty blankets, and with long sticks or wands in
their hands, brass armlets on their arms, and huge
strings of beads or bone around their necks, was
highly picturesque. Long before twelve the whole
tow^n Avas in a state of great bustle and excitement ;
and groups of these fine looking savages were formed
in every direction. The first chief I met was John
Chatzo, the man whom Ur. Pliillips took to England
with him, but who afterwards was one of the fore-
most in the late war with us, for which the Governor
at the meeting gave him a severe rebuke. He was
dressed in a suit like that of our London police.
He told me that he was a Ciiristian ; and that he
preached himself, but had very small congregations.
KING William's town. 41
At about half-past eleven I went again to the Gover-
nor's lodgings, with whom I had previously break-
fasted, and met there the Chief Umhala, with whom
he was conversing. He explained to him who I
was, and tried to impress upon him what a very
great man a Bishop is, and how much liiglier his
office is than that of other ministers of religion ;
which he illusti-ated by a long and short stick. At
twelve o'clock we walked in procession to the place
of meeting, I on the Governor's right hand. Colonel
Mackinnon, the Chief Commissioner, on his left.
As we approached, the band struck up " God save
the Queen," and the chieftains hurraed. We found
them sitting in a kind of semicircle, beyond which
there was another large semicircle of their swarthy
followers. There were about thirty chiefs present,
and three females. The chiefs were dressed in all
kinds of odd dresses ; one was in a richly embroi-
dered military surtout ; another in a military jacket,
a third in a shooting jacket of velvet. Sandilli, the
paramount chief, was in a plaid shooting jacket ;
others were in old and cast-ofF clothes : one only
wore a blanket, but none of the followers in the
rear had any other vestment. The Governor, as
soon as silence was restored, made a long speech to
them, which was ably and energetically interpreted
by Mr. Shepstone. He addressed them as chieftains
or children ; he told them there Avould be no change
in ttieir condition — (for they had got an idea that
tliere would be an alteration,) and stuck into the
ground a great stick of office, for which they have
42 KING AVILLIASl's TOWN'.
a great respect, to show that the law would not be
changed. lie pointed out to them the evils of the
late wiiv, and the blessing of peace — scolded tliem for
one thing, praised them for another, and addressed
them at one time in a tone of great authority and
sternness, and then changed his manner, using ex-
pressions of kindness. During his speech he called
upon the various Commissioners and the tribes to
say how the Kaffirs had conducted themselves — they
all expressed their entire satisfaction. Afterwards
the Governor returned the wand of office to Colonel
Mackinnon, an officer of very high character, and
who has given entire satisfaction, I believe, to all
who are under his government. He then called
upon the chiefs to speak, if they had anything to
say. Sandilli, Macomo, Umhala, made short speeches,
expressive of their delight at seeing Sir Harry
amongst his children, and regretting the absence of
Kreli. When they had done, tlie Governor told
them that the Great Father of the Christians — ^^the
Lord Bishop — the chief INIinister, in this land, of
the Church and religion of our Queen, who was ap-
pointed to teach him and aU in tliis land the way to
H(iaven, and to whom all the Christians looked up as
their great chief (Iiikosi Inkulu) in religion, had
ridden ninety miles yesterday from Graham's Town,
to be present at this meeting — that he had come to
ask them how he could do them good, and especially
to see if he could establish schools amongst them, or
send ministers to them, and that they must talk the
matter over amongst themselves, and promise to help
KING William's town. 43
to support tlieir teachers, by giving a calf or some-
thing else to feed them — and let him and me know
in what way we could serve them. After this I
addressed them to the same effect, assuring them of
my earnest desire to see them become Christians,
and of my readiness, in the name of the Church of
England, to send them ministers of God to teach
them the way to Heaven. A female chieftain and
Umhala both replied, saying, that they never had so
great a man of God come before amongst them, and
they knew not what to reply ; but they wished for
schools, and to be taught to know God. We then
returned to Sir Harry's lodgings, and the chiefs came
about us ; we had a long talk with them. He kept
them some time, laughing and joking with them,
and I served out water to them, as they were very
thirsty. One chief, Boteman, begged hard for a
blanket, Avhen Sir Harry told him he was an idle
beggar ; he made signs to me in a most ludicrous
way to beg for linen, supposing, after all he had
heard the Governor say of me, that I must have
great influence with him. To get rid of him, I pro-
mised him a blanket, and Mr. Heavyside took him
off to buy one ; but finding he would have none but
the best and most expensive, left him at the store
without any. He soon, however, found me out
again at Capt. Bissett's, and I was obliged to send
for the best blanket. Afterwards, Sandilli came in,
and he begged for a fine tiger skin on the sofa.
Both asked for spirits. In the afternoon I prepared
some ladies for confirmation, then went to baptize a
44 KixG William's town".
child. Dined with the officers of the Rifle Brigade,
who gave a dinnei* to Sir Harry. There was much
speaking, from which I did not escape.
Siaidcuj, Oct. 8. — We were to have had a ser-
vice on parade this morning at nine o'clock, when I
was to have addressed the soldiers ; hut the morn-
ing heing wet, we w-ere obliged to give up that
service, and content ourselves with one in the band-
room, when I preached and administered the Holy
Communion. "We had a congregation of about 200,
and fifteen communicants ; our offertory collection
for a Church exceeding 120/. At two o'clock I
formed a Sunday School. There were upwards of
twenty children ; some officers with their ladies un-
dertook tlie management of it. In the afternoon we
had. Divine service again, and I confirmed seven can-
didates ; in the evening I had a long conversation
Tvith Kreli, the paramount chief, Mr. Shepstone
kindly interpreting. Umhala, the ablest of the
Kaffir chiefs, was present, but he said but little,
being very sleepy.
Another chief, of not very good character, and
two of Kreli's counsellors, were of the party. Kreli
sat in the arm-chair, Umhala on a chair, the rest
squatted on the ground ; none wore anything but a
blanket. Kreli is a tall man, with rather a good
countenance and a fine eye ; but he is not regarded
as a man of any ability : he has just given cattle to
the amount of 300/., to repay the loss sustained by
the IMissionaries, in the destruction of their property
durins; the late war. I asked Kreli if he were a
KING William's town. 45
Christian ? He replied, No, If any of his people
were ? Yes. (He has 60,000 under him, and there
are 70,000 in British KaiFraria, of which Sandilli is
the paramount chief, having 25,000 under him. The
two great tribes in British Kaffraria, are the Slambi
and Gaika.) — Why he was not a Christian ? He was
not good enough. — I thought he showed signs of being
a good man, in giving cattle to pay for the missing
property Avhich his people had destroyed ; he seemed
pleased. — I hoped it would not be long before he be-
came a Christian ? He did not know what he was to
do to become a Christian. — Repent of sin, and believe
in Christ. What was sin ? — Here we closed the con-
versation, for I was afraid of giving a false impres-
sion, having no good interpreter. We conversed
through the medium of three languages, I speaking
to Captain Bissettin English, he to his servant girl,
John Cliritzo's daughter (a petty chief ), and she to
Kreli in the Kaffir language. We determined to
Avait for Mr. Sliepstone's arrival, whom we sent for.
After he came, the conversation was renewed, but I
did not think that any one of them had much know-
ledge of the Christian religion, or cared about it.
Kreli did not appear to believe in a future state, or
in fact in anything. After talking with him for
some time on religion, I found he was getting tired
of it, so I dropped the subject. He then asked me
about England, &c. I offered to take him there ;
he said he was afraid of the sea. I then offered
to educate his boy, and said he should come and live
with me. He replied, " If so, I must take father and
46 FORT TEDDIE.
mother too ;" I said, " Very well, come and pay me a
visit." He asked how far it was to Capetown, and
said it was too far. I told him, that perhaps next
year I should pay him a visit, for I thought of riding
up to Natal, tlirough his country ; we separated
about ten o'clock. The Governor had left before
Kreli arrived ; Kreli rode after him, and the Gover-
nor gave him a saddle and a fine horse, and one of
his coats ; he told me afterwards he was delighted
with his conversation with him.
Monday, Oct. 9. — Started this morning at five
o'clock on our return to Graham's Town, Captain
and ]\Irs. Bissett accompanying us for the first few
miles. AYe travelled, as before, at a gallop, and ac-
complished nearly forty miles before half-past nine,
when we arrived at Fort Peddle, where I found the
Governor, and had a short conversation with him. I
fixed upon the site of Church, school and parsonage,
wliich Sir H. ordered to be immediately surveyed.
At eleven o'clock I held service in a barrack-room,
used by the Wesleyans for their service. It was
quite full, and there could not have been less than
100 souls, including the troops. I was told that all
the whites in the place, except a Romanist and Pres-
byterian, were there. After the service Mr. II.
baptized several children. I afterwards endeavoured
to form a committee for the erection of a church,
towards which I was offered on the spot 50/. At one
we started again, and arrived before three at Trum-
peter's Drift ; leaving which at four o'clock, we
reached Graham's Town about eight in the evening ;
Graham's town. 47
thankful for God's merciful protection of us during;;
our very interesting expedition, and neither of us in
the least degree fatigued. I am very glad that I made
this journey, for I believe it will be for the further-
ance of the Gospel. In all probability I should never
have had such another opportunity of being intro-
duced, under favourable circumstances, to these
chiefs. Now I trust the way is paved for future
missions of the Church of England, should we be
able to enter upon the work. In point of fact I
have opened a communication in one case, which ap-
pears not unlikely to aiford a pi'omising field. But
where are the men for this work, and where the
means for their support ? Another reason why I am
thankful to have gone at this particular moment to
King William's Town is, because it was a critical
moment for our Church, Here, as in ev^ry other
place in this Colony, we were on the eve of losing
our people through neglect. Churchmen, despairing
about their own Church, were raising funds for a
Wesleyan chapel. Out of thi-ee who waited upon the
Governor on this account, two were churchmen.
My visit has, I trust, roused and encouraged the
minds of our people. Several have undertaken to
raise, funds, both in the Colony, and amongst friends
in England ; and a church to hold 400 has been de-
cided upon. God grant we may soon have a faith-
ful Minister there. It is a very rising place, and a
most important station for us to occupy. Here must
be the centre of our future missionary operations.
May we, at no distant day, see a band of zealous
48 Graham's town.
men penetrating, from this point, into some of these
strongholds of Satan, and rescuing from the snare of
the Evil One, the poor Heathen who are now led
captive by him at his will !
Tuesday, Oct. 10. — TVe have prayers at half-past
seven every morning, and prayers and sermon every
evening, during this week. I have appointed the
Clergy to preach in turns before me. After
breakfast I spent some time in replying to letters.
The remainder of the day was employed in receiving
visitors, calling with the Judge upon Col. Somerset,
visiting the Government School, and in Mr. Long's
examination for Pi-iest's Orders.
Wednesday, Oct. 11. — Early prayers in the morn-
ing. Confirmation with Litany at eleven o'clock.
There were, I believe, 112 candidates. This holy
service lias excited here, as everywhere else, very
great interest. The church was crowded, — the
candidates much affected, — whole rows of them
weeping and sobbing together. There were many
dissenters present, and they seemed as much im-
pressed as our own people. As an evidence, I may
mention that the churchwardens in the afternoon
addressed a letter to me, requesting a copy of my
address to be printed, Mr. G., the editor of the
Methodist newspaper, " having been generous enough
to offer to print a number of copies free of expense,
and to distribute, as well as to supply each of the
candidates with one." Such a request I could not
refuse. May God grant it may be of use in the pro-
motion of Ilis glory, and the good of souls I Mr.
Graham's town. 49
Barrow preached this evening, Mr. M'CIeland yes-
terday, and Mr. Green on Monday. Dined in the
evening with the Judge.
Thursday, Oct. 12. — This day I held a Synod of
the Clergy of the Eastern province. Present, Rev.
J. Heavyside, Rev. J. M'CIeland, Rev. H. Beaver,
Rev. J. Barrow, Rev. W. Long, Rev. J. Green,
Mr. Steabler, and Mr. Wheeler. We discussed the
same topics as had been pi'eviously debated in the
Western province — the formation of the Church
Society, Church Ordinance, Marriage Law, Educa-
tion Question. I issued the same injunctions, and
offered the same recommendations. Our delibera-
tions were conducted in the best spirit ; and I trust
good may result from them. Mr. Beaver preached
in the evening.
Friday, Oct. 13. — Our synodical meeting was
continued through part of this day. Made arrange-
ments for my future progi'ess through the Diocese,
and wrote letters to the various Civil Commissioners,
&c., to fix the days for my holding service in places
where there are no Clergymen. Mr. Heavyside
preached. Dined afterwards at a public dinner
given by the Governor, at the Court-house, to
150 people. He had arrived here yesterday, and
I felt 1 should be wanting in respect if I de-
clined this invitation. The dinner has, I hope,
politically, been of use in preserving that harmony
and unity which seemed fast disappearing in the
Colony.
Saturday, Oct. 14. — Conducted Mr. Long's viva
£
50 gr.vuam's towx.
voce examination in tlie Articles and Greek Testa-
ment. * * *
Sundaij, Oct. 15. — The ordination of INIr. Long
took place during morning prayers. Mr. Heavyside,
Mr. M'Cleland, and Mr. Green joined in the act.
I preached ; the congregation was a very large one,
filling the aisle as well as the peAvs. At the Holy
Communion there were 150 communicants, nearly
double the number that ever communicated before
at one time. The service has, I hope, been useful,
both in reminding us, who are God's Ministers, of
our solemn responsibilities ; and the Laity, of the
nature and dignity of our office, and their relative
obligations towards us. In the afternoon I attended
the Sunday School, where there were 120 children,
and addressed both children and teachers. Fifty of
the children here have already become subscribers
to our Church Missions, through the Church Society
which I am just founding. Afterwards I went to see
the Governor, who I heard was ill. I found him in
bed, but much better than he had been ; and greatly
regretting he could not attend the service of the
Church. I had a long and interesting conversation
with him. In the evening I again preached, Luke
xviii. 8. "Nevertheless, when the Son of man
cometh, shall he find faith on the earth ?" We
had again a very full Church.
Monday, Oct. 16. — Morning spent in receiving
persons who wished to see me, and came by appoint-
ment. At twelve o'clock we had a full Church
meeting at the vestry. The business began by a
GRAHA3l's TOWN. 5l
kind address to me from the vestry, in the name of
the Church at Graham's Town. I then brought
under their notice the circumstances of their Church
and churchyard, and my inability to consecrate them.
It was agreed that they shouki immediately be con-
veyed to the See. I next stated to them the nature
of the Archdeacon's office, who shortly would come
to reside amongst them ; and commended him to them
as my deputy and representative. Afterwards I
drew their attention to the question of Education.
Undertook to obtain as speedily as possible a Clergy-
man who should have the sole charge of the school,
and invited them to raise 300/. for the completion of
the building, to which I promised from my fund
501. A subscription was immediately entered into,
and a committee formed for raising the funds, if pos-
sible, before my return on Saturday next. I urged
them to raise 100/. a year for a Curate for Mr.
Heavyside. This they undertook to do through the
same committee. But this led to a long conver-
sation, in which some of the parishioners spoke their
minds freely respecting the present state of the
Church ; and laid sundry complaints before me,
which were not of a grave nature ; but which will,
I hope, as our ministerial body increases, cease to
exist. Amongst other subjects, they complained of
the giving up the Psalms in the Prayer Book for a
compilation of Psalms and Hyn^ns. Lastly, I laid
before them the Church Society, and invited tlieir
assistance in carrying it out. I entered at some
length into the nature of the association, and told
52 Graham's town.
them that I thought it best to lay before the Church
at once all the objects to which, as a Church, I
thought we ought to contribute — churches, schools,
pastors, widows and orphans of ditto; Missionaries,
College Scholarships, training of teachers. Book
Society. The Meeting expressed their readiness to
co-operate with me in carrying out all the plans
which I had proposed to them, and we broke up
after a long discussion of very interesting topics
at a little before three o'clock ; at four o'clock I
dined with the officers of the 91st, who had kindly
invited me to their mess ; at seven o'clock went to
a tea-party given to the Governor in the Town Ilall,
and retired late, wearied with the day.
Tuesday, Oct. 17. — Early part of the day spent
in returning the calls of the parishioners ; started at
two o'clock for Southwell, but a guide who under-
took to show us the way misled us, and we soon
found that we were on the Bathurst road ; but it
•was too late to retrace our steps, as we should have
been benighted, and the evening turned out wet.
We were obliged, therefore, after going over a mise-
rable road, to sleep at a kind of public-house, only
ten miles from Graham's Town, and twenty from
Bathurst ; we were, however, nearly three hours in
performing the ten miles.
Wcdncsihnj, Oct. 18. — Rose before three ; started
in the dark at foui; o'clock, hoping to i-each Bathurst
before eight o'clock, and then ride to Southwell in
time for the Confirmation. The morning however came
on veiy wet, and the roads became almost impassable,
BATHURST. 53
the wagon sliding in every direction as well as the
horses. Indeed, if our steed had not been an excel-
lent one, and very fresh, I do not think vs^e could have
got on at all. We escaped without an upset, though
momentarily in danger of one. The country through
which we passed was very pretty — a succession of
low hills covered with bush. On every side we saw-
marks of the late Kaffir devastations. Almost all
the farm houses seem to have been burnt down.
We arrived at Mr. Barrow's at half-past eight ;
when he informed us that, in the present state of the
country, no horse could pass from thence to South-
well ; so I was obliged to break my appointmentv
much to my regret. Bathurst is a pretty village,
with a neat little Church, not correct indeed in point
of architecture, but in excellent order. Spent the
greater part of the day in writing letters home, and
working at arrears of business.
TJiur&day, Oct. 19. — At ten o'clock this morning
went to meet the children of the Sunday School,
whom I addressed ; at eleven o'clock began the Con-
secration service. There was a full Church, the
inhabitants of the parish having come in from a con-
siderable distance. I preached. At the Holy Com-
munion there were upwards of twenty present.
After service went with Mr. Barrow to visit the
parishioners, for whom he had provided refreshments
in the schoolroom. At three o'clock the Confirma-
tion service began. There were thirty candidates —
two of them mothers, with infants in their arms.
After service at six o'clock, I held a meeting of the
54 CUYLEVILLE.
parishioners in the vestry. Recommended the sliare-
holders in a loan to the Church to give up their
shares, making an offering of them to God. Those
who were present undertook to do so. Brought
under their notice the Church Society, in which
they seemed to take an interest. Dined at eight
o'clock with Ml-. Dydson, the resident magistrate.
Friday, Oct. 20. — Started early this morning on
horseback for Cuyleville : a beautiful ride. The
banks of the Kleen-Mond River are steep, and well
covered Avith bush. After crcssing this river the
country was very much like an English park. The
Mimosa here grows to a great size ; it assumes the
appearance of a tree. Saw several beautiful flowers,
the Strelitzia Regina, &c. The Euphorbia too grows
here to a great size. Arrived at Cuyleville at about
ten o'clock (fifteen miles) ; at eleven held Divine
service, Mr. Barrow, Mr. Long, ]Mr. Green, and
Mr. Wheeler all taking part. We had a full room,
and began Avith iMorning Prayer. After the Second
Lesson we had a baptism. There were fourteen can-
didates for Confirmation, whom T addressed extem-
pore for half an hour, as several had been present
at our service yesterday. At tlie Holy Communion
we had about twenty present. Our collection at the
Offertory was upwards of SI. The whole service
was a very interesting one — the people appearing
very devout. After Divine service I held a meet-
ing of the members of the Church, and brought
under their notice the necessity of their contributing
to the support of their Catechist, who, I am happy to
SOUTHWELL. 55
say, appears to be working very earnestly and suc-
cessfully. The congregations are good ; and at his
different stations he has not less than fifty children
under his instruction. A treasurer was appointed
to collect funds, which are to be paid through the
Church Society. After service we rode through an
interesting country (fifteen miles,) to the Honourable
Mr. Cocks's, at the mouth of the Kowie River. At
his house we dined and slept. A large party of
friends followed us in a wagon.
Saturday, Oct.2\. — Mr. Cocks's son accompanied
me this morning before six o'clock to view a fine
reach of the Kowie River. The ride occupied about
half an hour, and we returned to breakfast at half-
past six. At seven we started for Southwell. I
rode with Mr. Cocks and his son, the wagon follow-
ing. Our route lay through a rich valley, occupied
by Mr. Cocks's tenantry, and standing thick with
corn. The crops were in every stage of progress,
from the early green blade to the ripe ear. We had
a pleasant ride of fifteen miles to the school, where
we arrived about ten o'clock. A congregation socn
gathered, and I held a meeting of the trustees, who
raised 201. on the spot towards liquidating the debt
on their building, and I promised to assist them.
We held Divine service at eleven o'clock. Mr. Bar-
row, who rode over from Bathurst, read Morning
Prayers ; Mr. Steabler the Lessons ; Mr. Long the
Epistle and Offertory ; Mi-. Green the Gospel. We
had nineteen candidates for Confirmation, whom I ad-
dressed extempore. Our communicants were about
56 Graham's town.
fourteen, and our Offertory collection upwards of 61.
After service some of the parishioners presented me
with a memorial, expressive of their gratitude for
the appointment of a Bishop — their obligations to
Miss B. Coutts, who, moved by God's Holy Spirit,
had founded the See — their obligations to me for
appointing so excellent a Catechist, and their deep
affection towards Mr. Barrow. I replied to them
briefly, and expressed a hope that I might find
things in a still more satisfactory condition, should
it please God to spare me another visitation. At
two o'clock we resumed our journey to Graham's
Town, which lay over a wide plain till we reached
the foot of the mountain, on the other side of which
the town lies. Here oxen were waiting to take our
wagon up a very steep ascent. We Avalked, and
arrived at Colonel Somerset's, with whom we are to
stay till Monday morning. At seven o'clock we had
a few friends to dinner, with whom we spent an
agreeable evening.
Sunday, Oct. 22. — Service in Graham's Town
at eleven o'clock. After the Second Lesson we had
several baptisms, when I stood sponsor to Mr. Heavy-
side's little boy ; I preached ; at the Offertory we col-
lected \%l. for the new school, in addition to 300/.
raised by the parishioners for the same purpose,
during my absence in Lower Albany ; after service
some of the parishioners met me in vestry to inform
me of the result of their efforts. The members of
the Cliurch Society are to meet on Thursday to elect
their committee, and raise 100/. a year fur an addi-
FORT BEAUFORT. Oi
tional Clergyman. Arranged with Mr. Wilsliere,
who has arrived from Capetown during my absence,
that he is to follow in a few days to Fort Beaufort.
In the evening Mr. Green preached.
Monday, Oct. 23. — Started early this morning,
accompanied by Colonel Somerset, and several gen-
tlemen from Graham's Town on horseback. Green
went on in the wagon. We had a lovely day, and a
very beautiful ride. During the day two very large
snakes crossed our path. We stopped for half an
hour at Fort Brown, (sixteen miles) ; here there are
both troops and civilians, without a teacher of any
kind. Colonel Somerset was very anxious that I
should send a Catechist, but I know not how to sup-
port him. We rode on to Koonap River, (nine miles,)
where we had an early dinner ; and in the evening
nine miles further, to a quiet little inn at Seur-fon-
tein, where we slept. The country is hilly all the
way, with the mountains in the distance. The views
are in some parts very extensive ; there is no timber,
but abundance of bush, and flowers of various kinds,
especially the jasmine, which is very sweet, and
several species of geranium, which entwine them-
selves amongst the bushes, and have a very beautiful
appearance.
Tuesday, Oct. 24. — We started again on horse-
back at six o'clock, and reached Fort Beaufort,(four-
teen miles,) about nine o'clock. This morning's ride
was through an interesting country, similar in its
chief features to that which we passed through yes-
terday ; it is a famous grazing country, both for
58 ronx ceaufort.
cattle and sheep, the bushes affording excellent
pasture during the dry season, but none of the land
in this part of the country is fit for the plough. A
few miles from Beaufort we were met by a large
party of civilians and military, who came out on
horseback to welcome us ; and on alighting at the
inn I had a great number of visitors. Fort Beaufort
is prettily situated on a plain amidst the hills, and
is nearly surrounded by the Kat River. I found it
to be a much more important place than I had sup-
posed. At eleven o'clock we held Divine service in
a very large barrack room ; there could not be less
than between 200 and 300 persons present ; I con-
firmed eighteen, w^ho had been prepared by Mr.
Pratt, Government schoolmaster, and administered
the Holy Communion to about thirty. I addressed
the candidates chiefly in an extempore way. At
two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, who
presented an address to me, congratulating me on my
arrival, and bringing the spiritual state of the place
under my notice. They have nearly finished the
Church here, but have no Minister. This church
has been built partly by a loan. I urged them to give
up their shares as an off-^ring, which all the share-
holders present promised to do. A committee was
appointed to communicate with all those who were
absent — to make application to Government for land
for a parsonage, churchyard, &c., and to take steps
for the conveyance of the Church, &c. to the See. I
also brought the Church Society before them, and
invited them to contribute to Church purposes
FORT HARE. 59
tlirougli it. I informed them also, that I would send
them a Clergyman for one year, free of all expense —
his stipend to be paid by the Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel. At the end of the year,
I informed them, they would have to contribute to
his support. This meeting lasted till four o'clock,
when we had evening service, and I preached agnin
to a congregation which entirely filled the large
room. After service I walked out of the town to in-
spect the churchyard, and after this the Church ; I
then went to visit a dying man, and retired at seven
o'clock to a late dinner ; spent a quiet evening in
writing letters.
Wednesday, Oct. 25. — A sleepless night j remained
awake till five o'clock ; received a large packet of
letters bringing painful news ; started at eleven
o'clock, in a smart shower, for Fort Hare. Major
Johnstone, Mr. Bovey, and Mr. Pratt accompanied
us. We stopped for an hour at the military village
of Ely. The people have made great progress in
the erection of their houses, and talked of building
a Church. The crops in their gardens and land
were abundant. Each man has twelve acres of
arable land. They are also allowed, for the present,
rations, and the use of Government wagons. It is
a pity that so few of the men are married. Those
who were, were very urgent on me to provide a
schoolmaster for their children. TVe arrived at three
o'clock at Fort Hare, meeting Colonel Armstrong
on the road, he having come out to meet us. At
four o'clock I held a Confirmation, for which holy
60 AUCKLAND.
rite there were but three candidates ; nor did many
of the troops attend. After service I went to lie
down for an hour before dinner, being quite knocked
up for want of rest. We dined with the 45th, who
are quartered here, and went in the evening to INIr.
Beaver, the Chaplain. Fort Hare is not a very in-
teresting-looking place, the houses being all built
of what is called " wattle and dab."
Thursday, Oct. 26. — We started at six o'clock this
morning, on horseback, for another military village,
(Woburn.) Colonel Armstrong and Mr. Beaver ac-
companying us. After conversing with the men,
and inspecting their houses, we rode on to Auckland,
another military village, situated at the source of
the Chumie, in a very beautiful spot, just under the
Amatola Mountains. On the opposite side of this
stream is British KafFraria, and the whole border-
line is thickly studded with kraals and cattle, partly,
I believe, because of the proximity to the Colony,
and partly because the grass and soil are excellent.
I was glad to see some Kaffir men digging in the
gardens — an unusual sight ; for all labour is usually
assigned to the wives. Auckland is a larger village
than the others ; but the land does not appear to be
so good, and the crops are consequently not so pro-
raising. Mr. Beaver had given no notice of a service ;
but several of the people drew together with their
Bibles and Prayer Books, so that I felt it would
be wrong not to hold a service. I thei-efore read
Morning Prayer in one of the cottages, and preached
to them extempore. The people were very earnest
BALFOUR. 61
in asking for a catecliist and schoolmaster. I pro-
mised to do what I could to procure one. After
leaving this we made our way back to the Missionary
station of Chumie, belonging to the Glasgow
Society — the Secession and Relief Scotch Dissenters.
I was much pleased Avith what I saw here. The
school seemed to me especially good, and there were
two very nice mistresses — one, a Kaffir woman, who
speaks English perfectly, having been educated in
Scotland. After staying an hour with the Missionary,
Mr. Cummins, we proceeded on our journey to Bal-
four, and rode over the mountains, through a very
beautiful country. Mr. Thompson met us a few
miles from his house. He has charge of the Kat
River settlement, consisting entirely of Hottentots,
who have been located by Government here ; and
some of them had acquired a good deal of property,
previously to the breaking out of the last war. Mr.
Thompson appears to be an intelligent man, as does
also Mr. Reed, of the London Missionary Society,
who has a kind of joint charge of the Hottentots
with Mr. Thompson, who is a Minister of the Dutch
Church. Mr. Thompson has a large school, con-
sisting' of the daughters of Missionaries in Kaffir
Land. We have ridden to-day, altogether, about
fifty miles, and have had a fatiguing, though an in-
teresting expedition.
Friday, Oct. 27. — Started at seven o'clock tliis
morning, in a cold fog, which was so dense that we
lost our way. It cleared up, however, about eight,
and we found ourselves in a rich and beautiful valley
62 FOKT RETIKF.
just under the Winterberg Mountain. "VVe soon liad
to commence the ascent of a part of this range, and
were compelled to walk our horses, the road being
very steep. The sua came out here upon us, and it
was intensely hot. We arrived at about ten at Fort
Retief, where Mr. Wilson came out to meet us. As
soon as we were dressed we again mounted our
horses, and rode about three miles to the school,
where a large congregation was awaiting us. They
all came out to meet me on the road, and gave
me a hearty welcome. The school-house was soon
filled with an attentive congregation, I confirmed
fifteen, whom I addressed extempore. After ser-
vice we went to look at the building which Mr.
Boon had begun, but was unable to finish, consisting
of a church, school, and dwelling-house. I held a
public meeting at two o'clock, at which about thirty
of the parishioners were present. We formed a
committee for finishing the Church, leaving the rest
of the building at present ; also to raise funds for
the support of a settled ministry; their subscriptions
to be paid through the Church Society, the nature
of which I explained to them. There is a day,
and also a Sunday School here, and I am glad to find
that Mr. Wilson is zealously and successfully dis-
charging the duties of a parish Minister in this
long-neglected field.
Saturday, Oct. 28. — Spent the early part of
the morning in writing, but we mounted our horses
again at ten o'clock, Mr. Wilson accompanying us.
The day was fine, but very warm. Fort Retief is
MANCAZANA POST. 63
situated in a somewhat dreary spot ; but we soon
got into a country which gradually improved, till we
reached the Mancazana Post, which is beautifully
situated in a fruitful valley, surrounded by fine
mountains. I observed to-day a great variety of
flowers, some of them very beautiful, just coming
into bloom. I also was pained to observe many
symptoms of Kaffir ravages, in farm-houses burnt
down and not yet rebuilt. In one place, the family
was living partly in a hut of straw, and partly in a
wagon. The class of farmers in this district seem
inferior in point of education, &c. to our English
gentlemen in the interior and the western province.
They are perhaps naturally very much embittered
ajrainst the Kaffirs, and turn a deaf ear to Missions.
There are more of the coloured population employed
by them than, I think, in other parts ; and so far as
food, &c. is concerned, they are, I believe, kind to
them ; but I fear the instances are very, very rare
Avhere any attempt is made to raise their characters
by instruction. It is painful to see the degraded
condition of these poor creatures — around each farm
there may be a dozen of their bee-hive huts, made
of a kind of reed. In each hut there dwells a man,
his wives, and a considerable family of little naked
savages, scarce raised in condition above the pigs
and cows by which they are surrounded, but with
intelligent countenances, and a fine manly bearing.
In this day's ride of thirty miles, I saw but one man
working. It is the usual custom for the male to sit
smoking at home, while his wives are cultivating
64 JIAXCAZANA POST.
the ground. AYe " off-saddled " for an Lour at
Mr. Bear's, who in the late war of 1835 was entirely
stripped of all that he possessed. He had built a
wall round his house, and made a kind of fortifica-
tion. He was attacked once by the Kaffirs, and
killed fourteen of them. He had been for sixteen
years in the Colony before he received a visit from a
Clergyman of the Church. Additional labourers are
sadly wanted here, as everywhere. May God, in
His infinite mercy, dispose the hearts of His people
at home to provide the means, and the men, for the
establishment of His Church and kingdom in this
desolate portion of the earth, for the bringing
within His fold these poor lost tribes, who are,
though in the midst of a professedly Christian
people, sitting in the darkness and shadow of death !
1 do not think I have in any part of my destitute
Diocese been so forcibly struck with the need we
have to make fresh and more vigorous exertions
for the establishment of additional clergy, who will
devote tliemselves to the work for Clirist's sake.
Much there i.s, and will be, to try God's servants
and ministers, on entering on the work here ; but
ample, I am sure, will be the reward, if not in this
world, yet abundantly in that which is to come. We
arrived at the Mancazana Post about four o'clock,
and found Mr. Boon, the catechist of the Colonial
Church Society, awaiting our arrival, and that our
wagon had also arrived. Mr. Boon walked with us
down to his little church, which he had built, and
which he has fitted up in the interior in a very cor-
MANCAZANA POST. 65
rect and devotional spirit. The interior indeed is
more like a eliurcli or house of prayer than any-
building I have yet seen in the Colony. The ex-
terior is poor enough. I have had a long conversa-
tion with him this evening about the state of religion
in this neighbourhood, and his account is painful
indeed.
Sunday, Oct. 29. — At nine o'clock this morn-
ing Mr. Boon's school assembled. I examined them,
and addressed them : at eleven o'clock we held
Divine Service in his neat little Church, to the west-
ern entrance of which he had attached a kind of tent,
by way of ante-chapel. Both Church and tent were
completely filled with a devout congregation. Mr.
Green officiated — Mr. Boon reading the Lessons and
Epistle. I preached. "VVe had eleven communicants,
one or two of whom were much affected ; the offer-
tory amounting to between ol. and 6/. After ser-
vice, several spoke to me of the state of spiritual
destitution in which they had lived, never having
seen a minister of their Church. I find that the
fiimilies of many Churchmen have joined some of
the various sects, who, while we have neglected
them, have met and supplied wants which they felt,
but saw no prospect of having supplied within their
own communion. We had our Confirmation Service
at three o'clock, when I confirmed six candidates.
There was again a full congregation, whom I ad-
dressed, together with the candidates, on the nature
of our Christian obligations, extempore. In the
evening, we had Divine Service again at seven
r
68 MANCAZANA POST.
o'clock. I preached on the text, " "When shall I
come and appear before God ? " (Psalm xlii. 2.)
Monday, Oct. 30. — Spent the early part of the
morning in endeavouring to devise some scheme
by which poor Mr. Boon may be relieved from the
responsibilities which his zeal for Cliurch and School
building have involved him in. I trust I may be
able to succeed ; but larger funds are required for
the completion of the undertaking, than can, I fear,
be raised ; and the tenure of the property upon
which he has built is so insecure, that I have great
doubts how far I can give assistance, under existing
circumstances, and whether we can ever secure it
for the Church. At ten o'clock I held a meeting of
the inhabitants. I pressed upon them the raising of
funds to support an additional Clergyman, whom
they speak of as greatly wanted ; and also to raise
the small amount still required to free their Church
from debt. A committee was formed for carrying
out these objects, the sums collected to be paid
through the Church Society, the nature of which I
explained to them. Six stations w^ere named in the
district, where it is desirable to hold services. At
one o'clock we started again in our wagon, and
drove through an interesting country, but over
wretched roads, to Mr. J. Nourse's, whose house
was burnt down last year by the Kaffirs, and is not
yet rebuilt. After outspanning here for half-an-
hour, we drove on to Sir A. Stockenstrom's, whose
house we reached at half-past five, and found dinner
waitinjr for us. I had an interesting conversation
SIR A, stockenstrom's. 67
with him iu the evening, respecting the coloured
popuhition, of whom there are such numbers in
these parts. Their existing condition is most melan-
choly. A little village of Kaffirs or Fingoes sur-
rounds almost every farm-house. For these people
nothing is done by the Christian population, whose
servants they are, and one scarce sees what is to be
done. Tiiey feel they owe no debt to the white
man, who has deprived them of their country ; and
they consequently think him fair prey. Nothing is
more common, therefore, than for the servant to
desert his master, carrying off with him some of his
best oxen or cows ; in fact, Sir A. has just lost five,
which he is seeking after in vain. What is to be
done with or for these poor people ? I fear, as
things at present are, it is only by raising the
Christian character of the master, and leading him
to take an interest in the spiritual welfare of the serf
population, that we can hope to do much good. But
at present the white people themselves are living, in
many instances, cut off from the means of grace, and
thus are themselves deteriorating. I have met with
one young man to-day, the son of a Clergyman, who
has a coloured population of 100 souls upon his
farm ; and to these he gives religious instruction
eveiy Lord's-day ; and he tells me he reaps the
benefit of it, in a worldly way, in the improved cha-
racter and conduct of his people. He has no Clergy-
man or Church within 100 miles of him.
Tuesday, Oct. 31. — Started at nine o'clock this
morning. Drove through a pleasing country, four
68 SOMERSET.
hours, to the Great Fish River, where we out-
spanned, and in which I enjoyed a swim. After-
wards drove on, three hours, to Somerset, vehich
is a pretty village, and beautifully situated, with the
mountains in the back. We took up our quarters at
Mr. Hudson's, the Civil Commissioner, and found
that he, with a party of gentlemen, had gone out to
meet us by a different road from that by which we
entered. Mr. and Mrs. Long had waited here for
our arrival. He has been preparing the candidates
for Confirmation.
WednescUiij, Nov. 1. — The early part of the day
spent in writing, chiefly relative to the state of things
at George. At eleven o'clock we held a Confirmation
in the Dutch Church : there were fifteen candidates.
We had also a Baptism after the second Lesson. At
two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, and
an excellent spirit prevailed. The amount of sub-
scription towards the stipend of a Clergyman is 60/.
a-year, to be paid through the Church Society, the
nature of which I explained to them. A committee
of the Society was formed. Two memorials to
Government were drawn up, and signed, one asking
for assistance towards the stipend of a Clergyman,
the other for a site for a Church. We raised 70/.
in the room towards the erection of a Church. One
gentleman consulted me about the question of tithes,
which he said he felt bound in conscience to pay, not
as an offering, but a debt to God. Our meeting was
over at four o'clock, afier which I returned a few
calls. Dinner at five. Church Service again at six
■ SQUAGGAS HOEK. FISH RIVER. 69
o'clock, when I preached, and administered the Holy
Communion to fourteen persons, one of whom had
been, I think, thirty-nine years in the Colony with-
out seeing a Clergyman.
Thursday, Nov. 2. — Rose at four o'clock, and
started at a little past five on our road to Cradock.
The route lay for several miles through a rough and
rocky valley of considerable beauty, called Squaggas
Hoek. We afterwards emerged into a more open
country, and arrived at a Dutch farm, just as they
were sitting down to dinner : they gave us a hearty
welcome. We then passed through a country
still hilly, though somewhat barren, till we arrived
at some farms called Spit Kop, where we were to
sleep ; but finding there was only one dark hole
where the family slept, but which th(^y kindly off'ered
to give up to us, we preferred passing the night in
the wagon ; where we rested better than we ex-
pected, with our men snoring on the ground on one
side of us, and the horses tethered to the wagon on
the other. Unfortunately for them, poor things, the
night AViis a cold one.
Friday, Nov. 3, — Started this morning a little after
five o'clock : the country through which we passed
was hilly, and very barren. We had, however, fine
mountain views. At half-past ten we arrived on the
banks of the Fish River, where we first bathed, and
then completed our toilet and shaving, which we had
no opportunity of doing before. We offered up our
morning orisons under the shade of the Mimosa.
Our road from hence lay along a stony desolate
70 CRADOCK.
valley, with mountains on either side, until we
reached Cradock about three o'clock. This is an
increasing place. I find here a Dutch Church, "Wes-
leyan and Independent Chapels ; but no English
Church, or Clergyman. Many of our people have
already joined other communions — others attend
their services, until a better day shall dawn. I have
had a list of about sixty persons presented to me,
chiefly heads of families, who still call themselves
English Church-people. I think something may be
done here. In the afternoon I went to call upon
several of our people, and upon the Dutch Minister,
who has kindly placed his Church at our disposal.
We took up our quarters at Mr. Gilfillan, the Civil
Commissioner's, who has kindly invited us to his house.
Saturday, Nov. 4. — The early part of the day I
employed myself in writing letters, and other official
business. Mr. Green employed himself in preparing
candidates for Confirmation. At two o'clock I held
a meeting of the Church-people. There were but
few there, owing to some mistake ; but a committee
of the Church Society was formed — subscriptions
entered into in support of a Clergyman, and towards
the erection of a Church, and memorials drawn up
to Government, for a grant for the only remaining
erf for a Church and Parsonage, and for assistance
towards the support of a Clergyman. Again, I had
to listen to the painful tale I have so often heard, of
many having joined themselves to other communions,
after waiting for years in the hope of seeing a Minis-
ter of their own established amongst them. In the
CRADOCK. 71
evening Mr. Gilfillnn had a large party of gentlemen
to meet us at dinner.
Sundaij, Nov. 5. — At eight o'clock this morning
began the work of preparing some additional candi-
dates for Confirmation, of whose characters I had
heard a good report, and with whose earnestness
and seriousness of deportment I was much pleased.
At half-past eleven we held Morning Service in the
Dutch Church, after theirs Avas concluded. "We had a
full Church, and I confirmed thirteen. Several chil-
dren were baptized after the second Lesson; and one
lady churched. In the evening we held Divine Ser-
vice again, when I preached, and administered the
Holy Communion to nineteen. We deferred the
Communion till the evening, in order that the newly-
confirmed might have an opportunity of communi-
cating. After service I had an anonymous offering
of 15/. sent in "from one who had lost his all in the
late Kaffir war, but was again prospering through
the mercy of God." I cannot but hope that the
services of this day may be blessed to the good of
the souls of our people. Several expressed them-
selves in a very right and proper spirit. May God
in His infinite mercy speedily raise up for them a
faithful pastor !
Monday, Nov. 6. — Started between five and six
o'clock. Another most lovely day. I cannot be too
thankful to God, amongst other things, for the beau-
tiful weather I have had ever since I left Capetown.
Had it been otherwise, how much must ray work
KARROO COUNTRY.
lia\ e been impeded : delay even for a few hours
would in almost every case have deranged my whole
plans. Our route lay through a Karroo country
with scarcely any house?, and bearing a very deso-
late appearance. The country was quite flat, but in
the distance we have had mountains all the way.
The only inhabitants seem to be spring-boks and the
buffalo : we saw many of the former. We out-
spanned by the Great Fish River, and again after-
wards by the Braak River, in which we enjoyed a
bath. We slept at Zoet Fontein, Andreis Bester's, a
very intelligent and amiable Dutch farmer. We
spent our evening in reading together the Dutch
and English Prayer-book, of which I gave him a
copy.
Tuesday, Nov. 7. — A restless night. I did not fall
asleep until near three o'clock, and was called at a
little past four. This was owing, I believe, to the
voraciousness of the animals that infested the bed.
I walked on before the wagon in the morning,
having wearied myself out with reading Southey's
life of Wesley in the night. About this house we
found three tame ostriches, also the secretary bird.
Our journey, as yesterday, lay over a great desert
plain, with nothing upon it but a kind of bush,
abounding, however, with the spring-bok, of which
we must have seen thousands : they kept crossing
our path incessantly, skipping and bounding very
beautifully. Around us on all sides were mountains.
The natural road is for the most part as good as any
COLESBERa. 73
road in England. Where we outspanned we found
the ground for a considerable extent actually covered
with locusts ; giving us some idea of what the plague
of locusts must have been. Two men were inces-
santly employed with leather flags tied to sticks,
flapping away the locusts from a field of corn which
was growing near the only water for miles ; but I
fear all their exertions will not prevent them from
consuming it. We slept at Peter Zisanopol's farm,
Macaster Fontein, where the people insisted on
turning out of their only bed-room to accommodate
us. I had rather have slept in the wagon, but they
had made all the arrangements while I had gone to
batlie in a vlea near the house. The farmer asked
us to hold a Service in Dutch, saying they were so
seldom able to hear God's ministers. Though I
o
was very doubtful whether they could understand
my Dutch, I thought it wrong not to comply. We
began with a Psalm. I then read to them a portion
of the Word of God, and offered up some of the
prayers of our Church. They professed to under-
stand all that I said, but I fear my pronunciation
must have appeared ridiculous to them.
Wednesday, Nov. 8. — Off again between five and
six: features of the country much the same as yes-
terday. We outspanned for breakfast at Cobus
Pinars : afterwards again near a vlea, where we
bathed. We arrived at Colesberg a little after five
o'clock. Colesberg is situated in a kind of valley,
between two rows of barren broken rocks. There
74 COLESBERG.
is not much space for a large town. The Dutch
Church is the great proprietor, owning 46,000 acres
of land, given to them by Sir L. Cole, when Governor.
I called in the evening upon the Dutch Minister, to
thank him for the offer of his Church, which he has
kindly placed at my disposal. AVe took up our quar-
ters with Dr. and INIrs. Orpen, whom we found well
and cheerful.
Thursday, Nov. 9. — Spent the morning in writing
and receiving visitors. Received a letter from the
Dutch Minister, wherein he offers, in the name of
his Church, the only remaining unsold erf, as a site
for an English Church. Commenced Dr. Orpen's
examination for Holy Orders.
Friday, Nov. 10. — Started on horseback a little
after five, to have a look at the Orange River. We
arrived there before eight o'clock, and after knee-
bathing our horses, swam across it : vye returned
home about twelve o'clock. The distance is about
thirty miles. In the afternoon proceeded with
Dr. Orpen's examination, and wrote seme letters.
Dined in the evening with INIr. Rawstorne, the Civil
Commissioner.
Saturday, Nov. 11. — Held a Confirmation this
morning in the Dutch Church ; twelve were con-
firmed, several of whom were much affected. At
two o'clock held a public meeting. Unfortunately
at this time several of our chief people are absent on
business. We however commenced subscriptions
for a Church and a Clergyman. Memorialized
COLESBERG. 1 3
Government for assistance. Founded tbe Church
Society, and passed resolutions thanking the Dutch
for their gift of a site for a Church. Afterwards
finished Dr. Orpen's examination. I am very much
pleased with him, and Mrs. Orpen. They ai-e excel-
lent, pious people ; and he has evidently already done
much good here, gaining the respect and regard of
all in the place, and drawing around him a congre-
gation much larger than couhl have been expected in
so short a time. He has the condition of the heathen
much at heart, and I doubt not, witli God's blessing,
will, so soon as he can, disclose to them, in their own
tongue, the wonderful works of God, and seek the
salvation of their souls.
Sunday, Nov. 12. — Ordained Dr. Orpen Deacon
this morning in the Dutch Church ; and had much
satisfaction and joy in admitting him to the Ministry.
We had a large congregation on the occasion. At
the Holy Communion eighteen presented themselves,
several of whom wept freely. I preached on the
duties and privileges of the Christian Ministry. In
the evening we had Divine Service again, the Dutch
Minister having kindly omitted his evening service
for the occasion. I preached again with special
reference to the work in which we are engaged —
the building of the House of our God. I fear the
religious condition of the European population is at
a very low ebb in this neighbourhood. The treatment
of the coloured heathen is, from all I can learn, any-
thing but what it should be ; and but little calculated
7b ELAXDS FONTEIK.
to win them to the faith of Christ. The Dutch
population, too, so far as education is concerned,
appears to be in a very sad condition. The farmers
are, I understand, wealthy here, but keep nearly all
they possess stored up in their own houses. I have
heard that in this way they keep in some instances
even thousands treasured up.
Blonday, Nov. 13. — Spent the morning in writing.
Afterwards called upon several of the inhabitants.
******
The Government is now consulting the field cornet-
cies as to the best method to be adopted for checking
thefts of cattle. &c. by the coloured population. Tiie
farmers have in several instances suggested that they
should be allowed to administer a " vaderligh tucht,"
fatherly correction ; the tender nature of which may
be seen in the case of a poor coloured man now in
jail or tronk at Colesberg ; the soles of whose feet
were so beaten by a farmer, that he is now obliged
to crawl about on his hands and knees. We slept
at Elands Fontein — I in the tent which was furnished
for me by the Governor. I found my mother Earth
none of the softest, and had but little sleep. My
morning toilet was performed at one o'clock by the
side of a muddy vlea, much to the annoyance of the
frogs : a vineyard was my oratory.
Tuesday, Nov. 14. — Slept at Mr. Bark's, an
Englishman ; the country is much the same as that
already passed through — large dreary plains inter-
rupted by rocky koppies, abounding with the spring-
GUAAFF REINET. , 7
bok and the gnu. We managed to get a refreshing
bathe ; and our weather is still beautiful, though
both warm and dusty.
Wednesday/, Nov. 15. — A long day's journey
through a country similar to that we have traversed
since we left Cradock : the whole of our day we
encountered successive herds of spring-bok, gnu,
and occasionally flocks of the beautiful crane of the
country.
2^hursday, Nov. 16. — The character of the country
is somewhat altered to-day. We are again amidst
the mountains, but everything wears the same
barren, desolate aspect as before. The spring-boks
and the gnus have disappeared, and we have scarce
seen any symptom of life, except that of a few sheep.
We have found some difficulty even in procuring
sufficient water for our horses, the streams being,
many of them, quite dry through the long-continued
drought. We have felt it, however, quite refreshing
to have exchanged the wearisome plains for the
mountains. We ai'rived at Graaff Reinet about six.
The approach to the town by the banks of the river
with mountain crags hanging over it is very beau-
tiful, and the town itself is charmingly situated
amongst the hills. It contains a population of
upwards of four thousand, and is laid out in squares
with streets crossing each other at right angles.
Almost every house has a garden, abounding with
the fig-tree, peach, vine, mulberry, pear, pome-
granates, apricot, &c. The oleander here grows to
a large tree, and I observed the Kaffir-broom, and
78 GRAAI F REINET.
some magnificent weeping willows. Little streams
of water run through almost every street. The
Dutch Church, with a very toleral>le tower and spire,
is well situated in the centre of the town. Having
arrived a day sooner than was expected, I prevented
the parishioners from riding out to meet me, as they
informed me they had intended to do. I found
a packet of about thirty lettei^s awaiting me, several
of them from England, containing accounts of the
falling off of my subscriptions, just as I have been
pledging myself to near 400/. a-year beyond what
I had raised in England. But God will provide. He
will not suffer His work to languish for want of a
few hundred pounds.
Friday, Nov. 17. — Reading letters and writing.
Walked about the town to look at the site of the
Church and Churchyard. In the afternoon drove
round the town. Visitors kept dropping in the
whole day from morning to night.
Satui'clai/, Nov. IS. — Confirmed forty-eight can-
didates this morning, many of whom were deeply
impressed. Afterwards held a meeting of the
parishioners, when a plan for a Churcli was decided
upon, a fresh subscription entered into in support of
their Minister, memorials di'awn up to the Governor
applying for land for Churchyard and Glebe, Church
Society explained and founded. Pastoral Letter
addressed by me to the Clergy, enlarged upon. The
meeting lasted nearly four hours. I trust the Church
here will soon be begun, as the money collected or
promised exceeds 900/.
GRAAFF REINET. 79
Sunday, Nov. 19. — Divine Service with Holy
Communion in the Dutch Church : many of the
Dutch were present. I preached on the necessity of
comin"- unto Christ in order to salvation, and the
way in which men must come. So long have our
people in this congregation been deprived of the
Holy Communion, that very many seem not to know
how the Sacrament is administered in the English
Cliurch. I have both confirmed here, and adminis-
tered the Holy Communion to some who were
brought up in the Dutch Church. I believe that
there are many of the more educated of that commu-
nion, who, where they have an oppoi-tunity of judg-
ing of our Church, prefer it much to their own. I
preached again in the evening on the spirit in which
we should enter upon the erection of the House of
God. Our collection to-day for Holy Vessels
amounted to upwards of 18/.
Blondarj, Nov. 20. — AYriting letters in the morn-
ing. At eleven, went out to return calls ; in which
occupation I was engaged during the remainder of
the day.
Tuesday, Nov. 21. — I leave Graaff Reinet with
much satisfaction, feeling assured that Mr. Long
will devote himself, as he has hitherto zealously
done, to the work of the ministry ; and that God's
cause will prosper there. I have heard to-day that
the impression made by the Confirmation has been
most happy and salutary; and that some, at least, are
resolved to live as members of Christ, and children
of God. Some Jews sent a contribution to our
80 SNEEUWBEUU.
Church, having heard the afternoon sermon yester-
day, in which I endeavoured to stir up our people to
take part in the erection of tlie house of God, as a
high privilege, by showing the spirit in which God's
ancient people engaged in the erection of the taber-
nacle, and the rearing and restoring the temple.
At six o'clock this morning, we started on horse-
back, accompanied by Mr. Ilewatli, the churcli-
warden, who kindly lent us horses, and Mr.
Southey: they rode with us till ten o'clock. Shortly
after we passed by a very singular and beautiful
waterfall, which fell from the edge of our road into
a very deep valley beneath. Afterwards our route
lay along a valley, which had no very interesting
features. The country is much burnt up, and there
are no trees. Our day's journey was about filty
miles. We slept at Rhenoster-fontein.
Wednesday, Nov. 22. — The Sneeuwberg, through
which we are passing, is a somewhat richer country
than we have of late seen ; tlie i'arms exhibit signs
of wealth, and here and there, where there is a
" fontein," there are patches of arable land covered
with luxuriant crops. If only there were more
rain, or rivers which continually flowed, or if
there were greater eflforts made to preserve what
water does fall, the greater part of the valleys wliich
we passed through might undoubtedly be brought
under the plough. The general features of the
country, however, present but a barren appearance.
We passed the night on the edge of the Buffalo
River, whose broad basin, however, was nearly dry.
BEAUFORT. 81
My tent, which was pitched in the sand, was so
loosened from its holdings by the wind, that it kept
flapping all night, and the sand drifted into my bed,
so that I scarce got any rest. We enjoyed, how-
ever, the freedom of our mode of life, and lay
gazing on our magnificent canopy of stars.
Thursday, Nov. 23. — Being ready before the
wagon, I had an enjoyable walk of two hours in
advance. During the day we saw a great number
of ostriches. We were quite rejoiced again to see
the Mimosa, of wiiich a fortnight since we were
quite weary. Anything green is pleasing, after the
dreary waste of dry and withered buslies, by wliicli
we have been of late surrounded. We halted at
night at a f^irm about four hours distant from
Beaufort, and slept in tent and wagon.
Friday, Nov. 24, — Arrived in Beaufort about ten
o'clock, our horses appearing somewhat fagged. I
find the Civil Commissioner has never received
my letter, and that I was, consequently, not ex-
pected. He however soon engaged lodgings for us,
and we got some breakfast before twelve o'clock. It
is very unfortunate that no notice could be given of
my visit, for most of the English population reside
in the country, there being, I am told, not less than
forty farmers in the neighbourhood. I have, how-
ever, notified my desire to meet the inhabitants to-
morrow, and to hold service in the Dutch Church.
I found another packet of English letters here, and
one from , announcing the arrival of the
Archdeacon, and seven Clergy and Catechists.
82 BKAUFORT.
Spent the day in writing letters, and calling upon
and conversing with the English inhabitants.
Saturday, Nov. 25. — Morning spent in receiving
visits, inspecting and examining the heathen school,
and calling upon some of the English people. I
found one lady, who said she had been thirty-eight
years in the Colony, without seeing any Minister of
her own Church. Several more, having quite
despaired of ever having a Clergyman near them,
have joined the Dutch Church. There is, however,
a little congregation here of members of the En-
glish Church, who meet together every Lord's-day,
to read the Church Service. Mr. Eraser, the Dutch
Minister, received us very kindly, and assured me
he should give up the English service which he now
holds, as soon as an English Clergyman is appointed.
Examined the Government school. There appears
to be an excellent teacher here. I held a meeting of
the English inhabitants at three o'clock, in the
Court-house, in order that we might take steps for
the erection of a Church, and the raising of a
stipend for a Minister. It was very well attended,
though the notice was so short, — but none of the
country people could be present. Nearly 200/. was
raised in the room for a Church ; and this, it is
expected, will be greatly increased : nearly 50/.
a-year for five years pledged for a Clergyman, and
this also will be much increased. Memorials were
drawn up and signed, requesting the Governor to
give a site for a Church, &c., and to meet their sub-
scription by grants both towards Cliurch and Pastor.
BEAUFORT. 83
I was not able to promise them much assistance,
being pledged already to an extent beyond the funds
placed at my disposal. After the meeting, in the
evening, several persons came to see me, on cases of
conscience. They spoke in affecting terms of their
spiritual destitution, and of the awful condition
into which many English settlers have sunk, from
vrant of the means of grace ; and expressed their
joy at the prospect of a change. One gentleman
declared, though his family had, from lack of means
in their own ChurcJi, joined another communion, yet
that in their hearts they were with their ancient
mother ; and that they should return to her fold
as soon as they had the opportunity : at my next
Visitation, he and his three sons would present
themselves for Confirmation, and would have done so
now, had there been sufficient time to prepare for it.
Sunday, Nov.2Q. — We held service this morning
in the Dutch Church. There was a large congrega-
tion of Dutch and English. There were but few
communicants. Several wished to have approached
the Lord's Table, but were deterred from want of
preparation, the notice having been so short ; and
possibly, also, from having, in this their spiritual
wilderness, thought but little of it. The Evening
Service was at five o'clock, Mr. Eraser omitting his
usual English service. There was a good congrega-
tion. I preached on both occasions. In the after-
noon, at Mr. Eraser's request, I addressed both the
coloured and Dutch Sunday-school, who were
brought into the church for that purpose. His clerk
84 KARROO COUNTRY.
interpreted for me. The coloured school consisted
chiefly of adult heathens. Poor things, they seemed
very attentive. In the evening, many of the inha-
bitants came to bid us good-bye, and to wish us a
prosperous journey; and some of them sent us
cakes, honey, and milk, for provision by the way.
3Ionday, Nov. 27. — Rose at three o'clock, but
was delayed some time, waiting for the horses I had
engaged. I thought it prudent to send on my own
horses a day in advance, lest they should be quite
knocked up on our long journey to George, over a
road but little known, but known to be a bad one.
Our route to-day has been along a dreary, barren,
desolate Karroo. We have performed, however,
nearly seventy miles, over a rough road. Our
horses stuck for some time in the dry bed of a
river, and I thought we should have to remain there
till the next thunder-storm washed us all away.
After whipping the poor jaded horses for some time,
our men suggested that Green and myself should
put our shoulders to the wheel, which we accordingly
did, and at length got out. "We outspanned for the
nigl\t near a little muddy pool in the bed of the
river ; and here again we were obliged, as it was
growing dark, to become hewers of wood for our
fire, and drawers of water; while our men were
pitching the tent, lighting the fire, cooking our
supper, and feeding the horses.
Tuesday, Nov. 28. — We rose again between three
and four. I walked on, and the wagon did not over-
take me till I reached Swanapools, where our horses
ZUNYBERG MOUNTAINS. 85
were waiting for us. I had a pleasant walk for two
liours. We started immediately with our ov/n
horses, and ti'avelled as usual, till we arrived at the
top of the Zunyberg Mountains, over which we had
to pass, where one of our wheels gave way with a
great crash. By my calculation of distances, I con-
sidered that we could not be more than half-an-hour
from a farm ; and therefore I started on foot, with
Ludwig, to get assistance, leaving Green in charge
of the wagon. We walked on till near nine o'clock
before we reached a house, and found ourselves
twelve miles beyond the place where I was told
there was a house, but where we found there was
none. I was very tired before we reached the place,
and was thankful, on arriving at a pool of water, to
kneel down like the cattle and drink ; but would
have gladly given up my place to our poor parched
horses, who had no water within several miles of
them. We found it was too late to send a wagon that
night, the oxen not being in the kraal ; I therefore
asked if I could sleep at the farm. The good people
readily assented, but alarmed me by covering the
floor of my room with beds for the whole family,
which, however, from a hint from Ludwig, they
moved into another room, to my great consolation.
I did not sleep well, having still a superabundance of
unpleasant bedfellows.
Wednesday, Nov. 29. — Early in the morning I
despatched Ludwig with an ox-wagon, and a cask of
water for the horses, while I walked on to see a
wheelmaker, who happened to live near, about
86 KARROO COUNTRY.
making us a new wheel. I found him engaged
in repairing another wagon that had broken
down, but he promised despatch. I feel somewhat
crippled with my walk of twenty-five miles yester-
day, under a hot sun. Having no books, nor any
writing materials, my day was but a dull one. I
spent the greater part of it under the shade of some
mimosa bushes, reviewing my work, meditating upon
various subjects, and looking out anxiously for the
wagon. Our wheelwright, in spite of his promises,
went to bed before I did. The wagon did not return
till nearly nine o'clock. They were once upset,
Avhich did not improve the condition either of the
vehicle or its contents.
Tliursdaij, Nov. 30. — We find the benefit of carry-
ing provision with us, as we are nearly reduced to
living on our own stores. Christian produced an
ostricli's egg, which he had got from a coloured
woman during his journey yesterday, and it satisfied
the hunger of our whole party. I do not much
admire the flavour ; it is too rich. Our men all set
to work upon the wheel, and I fear it will not be
finished to-night. We spent our day chiefly in
reading, and writing letters. Walking up a small
valley, we came to a waterfall, and a very deep pool
under rocks, perhaps 600 feet high. Here we en-
joyed a very cold bath. I swam under the fall,
which was not a very great one.
Friday, Dec. 1. — Our repairs were finished early
this morning, and we got otf at nine o'clock. AVe
were thankful to get quite out of the Karroo country,
LANGE KLOOF. 87
whicli is essentially " a barren and dry land where
no water is." The country here is in some respects
interesting. The mountains are bold and rugged,
but still want trees. There is scarce any green thing
except the mimosa. We had hardly crossed the
Olifants River before we met Mr. Sutherland, from
the Knysna, who had ridden at least 100 miles to
meet us. Shortly after we were met by Mr. Walter,
of George, who had ridden as great a distance, and
had been waiting for us more than a day. He most
kindly came out to see that the horses, which were
gratuitously furnished to us by the different farmers
along the road for the last eighty miles, at the re-
quest of their Minister and the Civil Commissioner,
Avere in readiness. Had it not been for this act of
kindness, it would have been very difficult for us to
reach George by Saturday evening. We slept at
Mr. Commr. Van Rooyen's, who entertained us most
hospitably, and would take no remuneration.
Saturday, Dec. 2. — We had oxen to take us over
the mountains. I was very glad to find myself in
the Lange Kloof. It seemed quite like an old fi'iend,
and made us feel we were again approaching home.
We travelled at a rapid pace with fresh horses,
breakfasting at Mr. Ignatius Van Rooyen's, and
dining with Mr. Richardson, who has a very large
establishment of seventy souls on his farm. His
buildings are the best of any that I have seen in the
Colony ; and I was very glad to find that he had
erected very comfortable houses for his coloured ser-
vants. I understand he finds no difficulty in pi'O-
88 MONTAGU PASS. GEORGE.
curing servants, for he lets them see he takes an
interest in them — attending to their spiritual as well
as their temporal wants ; holding Divine Service for
them on Sunday : and I am persuaded if more of the
farmers would follow his example, they would be
equally successful, and find the benefit of their
efforts, even in a temporal point of view, I was
very much struck with the Montagu Pass. Tiie
scenery is really very fine ; the mountains grand and
picturesque, and very Alpine. The road is an
excellent one, and well engineered. We arrived at
George about seven o'clock, and found a large party
of gentlemen awaiting us. We took up our quarters
at the house of Mr. Garcia, who was kind enough to
invite us, and where we had soon a numerous party
of visitors. I found many of our old friends from
the Knysna, who had come up to meet us. David-
son met us at Mr. Richardson's, and I had a good
deal of conversation with him.
Sunday, Dec. 3. — We had Divine Service twice
to-day. I preached, in the morning, on the prepara-
tion of heart required for a due commemoration of
Christ's first coming into the world ; and in the
evening, upon his second coming.
Monday, Dec. 4. — Wrote all the morning, chiefly
letters of business. In the afternoon, returned some
calls. In the evening, we had a dinner party.
Tuesday, Dec. 5. — Day spent in writing, making
arrangements with the Churchwardens, calling on
various people. In the evening dined with the Civil
Commissioner.
GOARITZ RIVER. PORT BEAUFORT. 89
Wednesday, Dec. 6. — Started at five o'clock this
morning. Outspanned and breakfasted at the Great
Braak River, at the same spot as we did more than
three months ago. Puslied on in tlie evening till it
became dark, when we could find no water ; and
therefore travelled on till we reached the Goaritz
River after ten o'clock. We did not get to sleep
till near midnight, as the tent took some time to
pitch.
Thursday, Dec. 7. — Up again before four o'clock
this morning. We forded the Goaritz River, taking
off our shoes and stockings at a drift where it is some-
times 150 feet deep. Suspecting our horses might
fail at this which is a steep, sandy drift, I watched
for the wagon from the height of the opposite hill.
Unfortunately my suspicion proved but too true.
For the first time in a journey of two thousand miles
they were beaten, greatly to the vexation of our
driver. Here we had to remain several hours,
waiting for a span of oxen. At length our patience
being wearied out, we emptied our wagon, carrying
its contents to the top of the hill. The horses then
took it up with ease. We slept at a f;irm about two
hours distant from Riversdale.
Friday, Dec. 8. — Breakftisted with Mr. Hudson
at Riversdale. Major Shaw, the Magistrate, spoke
to me very earnestly about a Clergyman, and thought
that 50/. or 60/. a-year might easily be raised. He
is to communicate with me on the subject. We
determined to go a little out of our way to Port
Beaufort, which I missed when last here, to see
90 SWELLENDAM.
Mr. Barry, and the foundation of his Church,
according to plans furnished by me which are already
laid : we slept at his house, and walked to see the
mouth of the Breede River. The want of good
water -will probably prevent this becoming ever
a considerable port.
Saturdaij, Dec. 9. — Sent on my wagon early, and
followed myself later in Mr. Barry's wagon, with
some of his family who were going up to Swellendam
for the Sunday Service. The distance is thirty-six
miles, and tlie country has a very dreary appearance,
being much burnt up, and entirely without trees.
Sunday, Dec. 10. — "We held Divine Service in
the Dutch Church, morning and evening, I preached
in the morning on our Lord's second advent. Green
in the evening. After morning service I confirmed
a lady who had been most anxious for Confirmation
wdien I was last here, but had had no notice of it,
and determined to go to Capetown to partake of
the ordinance, though in a bad state of health.
Monday, Dec. 1 1 . — Rose at three o'clock ; started
about four on my route to "Worcester. The weather
is getting very Avarm, and the country very dry and
burnt up. At Swellendam upwards of lOOZ. a-year
has been raised since I was here, in support of
a Clergyman. I trust I may be able to send one
shortly. The village is one of the neatest and most
cheerful looking in the Colony. Our route lay
through a pleasing valley, lying between mountains,
and capable I should think of being cultivated to
a great extent ; and of bearing a large population.
WORCESTER. 91
We slept at Mr. Van Tyler's, a Dutch farmer of some
intelligence.
Tuesday, Dec. 12. — Amved at Worcester about
five o'clock. The distance from Svvellendham is,
I think, about ninety miles. The day was intensely
hot, and we enjoyed much a bathe in the river.
Worcester is very beautifully situated at the foot of
the mountains. It was apparently intended, when
laid out, for a large town ; but at present contains,
including the coloured people, not more than three
thousand souls. The houses are at a gi-eat distance
from each other, and surrounded by fields or gardens.
The soil seems rich, and is well watei'ed. We took
up our abode at the Drosdy House, having been
kindly invited to do so by Mr. Truter, the Civil
Commissioner, a most agreeable and gentlemanly
person. This house was built as a shooting box by
Lord C. Somerset, when Governor; and is one of the
best in the Colony. The gardens about it are excel-
lent. The premises, which are too large for any
private person, would make admirable buildings for
a College.
Wednesday, Dec. 13. — Went before breakfast
with Mr. Truter, to visit the gaol. The only prisoner
is a Dutch farmex", who recently beat his wife to
death because she remonstrated with him for pre-
tending to celebrate the Lord's Supper when in
a state of intoxication. He has for the last few days
become at times insane, apparently from remorse
and despair. I spoke a few words to him respecting
repentance and pardon, but it was too much for
92 AVOKCESTER.
him. He became convulsed, and I was obliged to
leave him. Crimes like his are very rare in this
Colony ; but, as in the mother country, in most cases
they have their origin in drink, to which there are
but too many temptations. After breakfast I exa-
mined the government school. I found the teacher
here, as elsewhere, cramming the children with
natural philosophy, and all kinds of hard words, the
meaning of which they did not understand, instead
of giving them a plain useful education, suited to
their circumstances. I was pleased, however, with
the knowledge which two or three children exhibited
of the history of the Old Testament. At eleven
o'clock I held a meeting of the English inhabitants
in the vestry of the Dutch Church. There were not
many present, nor indeed are, there many in the
place, and these are chiefly poor. Several offered
themselves as candidates for Confirmation ; and one
or two seemed very anxious to have a Clergyman
placed amongst them ; but I fear I shall scarcely be
able to effect this at present. One man pleaded very
earnestly with me, and spoke with great feeling of
his own condition, cut off as he is from the means of
grace, and utterly unable to comprehend the Dutch
Service. There are some Rhenish Missionaries here,
who seem to be respectable men ; though they do
not appear to be doing any great good. After our
meeting I called on Mr. Sutherland, the Dutch
^Minister ; he has usually only one service on
the Sunday, but once a month he holds an Eng-
lish service. In the afternoon wrote letters, &c.
■WORCESTER. 93
There were several gentlemen to dinner in the
evening.
Thursday, Dec. 14. — Had interviews this morning
with several persons who wished to see me on re-
ligious matters. One English farmer who had come
30 hours, (180 miles,) wished to be confirmed. He
had not seen an English Clergyman for many years.
I found him well instructed in religion, but on in-
quiry discovered he had been living fifteen years with
a coloured woman. He was anxious to be married
to her, but she had not been baptized ; and upon
examination we found her not sufliciently instructed.
The nearest Dutch Church to him is 24 hours dis-
tant (150 miles). What can we hope for or expect in
such a state of things ! He is during the next four
months to instruct her whom he calls his wife, more
perfectly in the Christian faith, and afterwards to
bring her to Capetown for more full instruction,
and for baptism : after which I have promised they
shall be married and confirmed. At ten o'clock con-
firmed five candidates, whom G. had prepared yes-
terday. There was a tolerably full Church. After
service some members of our Church spoke to me,
with tears in their eyes, about the comfort they had
had in once more hearing their own Ministers, and
their own Liturgy ; and earnestly entreated me to
send a Clergyman to them. I promised to do what
I could towards providing them with a Service once
a month. We left Worcester at two o'clock, much
gratified with our visit at the house of Mr. Truter.
Our route to the Convict Station lay through a fine
94 Mitchell's pass, tulbagii.
and fertile valley, where the farms are closer to each
other than in any other part of the country that I
have seen. We arrived at Musteed's Hocks about
eight o'clock, Mr. Bain, the intelligent superinten-
dent of the convicts and engineer of the roads, hav-
ing ridden out with some other gentlemen to meet
us. Had it not been for their courtesy, we should
have had some difficulty in finding our way in the
dark, through several very difficult fords of the
Breede River. ^Ye slept the night at Mr. Bain's.
Friday, Dec. 15. — At six o'clock this morning
we started on horseback to ride up the new road,
now called Mitchell's Pass ; and to inspect the Con-
vict Station. The establishment appears to be
admirably conducted, and the discipline is excellent.
I had the greater number of the convicts (of whom
there are 250) assembled in the Chapel, and addressed
them, their teacher interpreting for me. I had after-
wards an interesting conversation with some Eng-
lish convicts. The Pass is a very beautiful one, the
road excellent, and well engineered. I love to see
these great works going on in the Colony, opening
out, as they do, vast tracts of land, and developing
the resources of the country. After breakfast we
proceeded to Tulbagh, (three hours.) This is a small
but pretty village, with very few English. We
had tiffin with Mr. Shand, the Dutch Minister.
There is in this place the only congregation I know
of that has avowedly separated from the Dutch
Ciuirch. At three o'clock we started again, and
arrived at eight o'clock at Maland's Farm. AVe had
WELLINGTON. THE PAARL. 95
by the way a very pleasant bathe in the Waterfjill
River.
Saturday, Dec. 16. — Outspanned for breakfast
near Wellington, a new village rising up near Bain's
Kloof, and likely to be much increased, in conse-
quence of the new road about to be made over the
Pass. Having got careless as to our " pat-cop" as we
approached home, we fared but badly, and finished
our meal by a draught of not the clearest water in
the world. "VVe walked over the village — called
upon the Dutch Minister, and an English gentleman,
and found there were a few members of our Church
here, and several more English, who, for want of
the ministrations of their own Church, have joined
the Dutch. About ten o'clock we proceeded on to the
Paarl, which is distant from Wellington about an
hour and-a-half. The Paarl is beautifully situated,
and has a considerable population. The farms here
are much smaller than usual, and the farmers in and
around the village are chiefly employed in cultivating
the vine. Indeed this is one of the best vine-errowin"-
parts of the Colony. The irregularity of the houses
here, the fine oak trees, and the beauty and fertility
of the gardens make this one of the most interesting
villages in the Colony. There is, as usual, a want
of water, though we found it of sufficient depth in
the river not far distant from the village to enjoy a
good swim. The Dutch Minister here is one of the
most learned of their body. The London Missionary
Society has a station and a chapel, and I believe
a respectable congregation of the coloured classes.
96 STELLKNIiOSCII.
About one o'clock we proceeded on our route, after
having made arrangements with Mr. Inglis, the
teacher in tlie Government School, who held a ser-
vice every Sunday, respecting the services for Tues-
day, when I am to hold my Visitation here. Long
before we arrived at Stellenbosch, we caught glimpses
of the Table Mountain ; and the eye could trace the
range up to the point under which Protea lies. I
felt thankful to have even this distant view of home,
and regretted that my arrangements compelled me
to retrace my steps even for a few days. The Civil
Commissioner not being able to receive us at his
house, in consequence of his wife's illness, we took
up our quarters at the hotel. I had scarce opened
my packet of letters before I saw my carriage drive
past the door. In an instant I was again, by God's
great mercy, permitted to see my dearest wife, from
whom I had been separated nearly four montlis. AVe
had the Civil Commissioner and several visitors in
the evening. Stellenbosch is, like so many other
places in this Colony, beautifully situated at the foot
of the mountain ; but in no place that I have seen
are the streets so completely overshadowed by full
grown oak trees. In the summer this is a great
luxury. In the winter it probably leads to some
degree of damp.
Sunday, Dec. 17. — We held Divine service this
morning, in the Dutch Church, after their service
was concluded. There was a large congregation.
We administered the Holy Communion to about six
people. In the evening we held service again,
STELLENBOSCH. THE PAARL. 97
when there was an equally good congregation. Some-
thing must be done for this place. There is no
English service of any kind here. Besides the
Dutch Church, there are two Rhenish Missionaries
with a large coloured congregation, and a Wesleyan
Missionary. The population of the place is, I be-
lieve, little short of four thousand,
Monday, Dec. 18. — At ten o'clock this morning
I held a Confirmation in the Dutch Church, when
six were confirmed, whom Green had been pre-
paring while here. At twelve o'clock, I held a
meeting of the English in the Court-house, when a
memorial was addressed to Government, praying for
a "rant of 100/. a-year towards the stipend of an
English Clergyman, and grants of land for Church
and parsonage. A subscription was also opened for
a stipend for a Clergyman. There was an English
Clergyman settled in this place a few years since,
who, when he went away, left an English congrega-
tion of ninety, who have had no minister since.
After returning one or two visits, and seeing my
wife off, we started again in our wagon for the
Paarl, where we arrived about seven o'clock.
Tuesday, Dec. 19. — We held Divine service this
morning, in the Government School-room, at ten
o'clock: there was a full congregation, chiefly of
Dutch. There were six baptisms, and as many
candidates for Confirmation, whom Mr. Inglis the
teacher (formerly a catechist of the Colonial Church
Society) had prepared. I both preached and ad-
dressed the candidates, who all seemed to feel
H
98 MALMESBURY.
deeply. Mr. Inglis, after service, applied to me to
ordain him, offering to officiate as Minister at the
Paarl without a stipend. At one o'clock, we again
started en rmite for Malmesbury, where we arrived
at about half-past seven in the evening. The Civil
Commissioner being unable to receive us himself
into his house, committed us to the hospitality of a
Dutch lady, who received us very courteously.
There is not much in the external appearance of
Malmesbury to interest one. The situation is bleak
and dreary. There are a few trees, and a deficiency
of water which prevents the inhabitants from culti-
vating gardens to any extent. There is, however,
a sulphureous warm spring, and a miserable public
bath. The bath is, I believe, beneficial in rheumatic
cases, but does not seem to be much used. There is
a Dutch Church here, but no INIissionary station.
The Moravian Institution, however, at Green Kloof,
is only a few hours distant. There are not many
English here ; but I find there are a good many
about Saldanha and St. Helena Bays, who do not
bear the most respectable character. We spent one
evening in preparing some very interesting candi-
dates for Baptism and Confirmation, and in con-
versing with several gentlemen who had been invited
to meet us.
Wednesday, Dec. 20. — Walked about the village
before breakfast. At nine o'clock went to the Govern-
ment vSchool, where a public examination was going
on. The children answered very satisfactorily the
questions put to them on religious subjects. At ten
d'tjrban. protea. 99
o'clock we held Divine Service in the Dutch Church,
and baptized three adults, who had been prepared by-
Mr. Inglis, and an infant. I confirmed one of the
party whom I baptized. At about two o'clock we
started again, and drove over a sandy road through
a country well cultivated, and bearing large crops of
wheat and oats, to the farm of Mr. Procter, an
English gentleman. He, like every one else, com-
plains sadly of the want of labourers ; he says that
he is offering three shillings a day, together with two
pounds of meat, two pounds of bread, and two bottles
of wine during harvest time, and cannot get labour-
ers. He says he could employ 100 additional handS;
if he could procure them. One man, whom he
brought out a few years since as labourer without a
shilling, has now realized 500Z. Another, who came
out eleven years since, has now a well-stocked farm
of 3,000 acres ; but he too complains sadly of the want
of labourers, and the difficulty of obtaining education
for his children.
Thursday, Dec. 21. — Drove three hours to
D'Urban, to breakfast. This is a small and uninte-
resting village, built upon a sandy soil, and without
trees. It has nothing attractive about it. There is
a Dutch Church, and also a resident Clergyman, whom
we called upon. At half-past eleven we started
again for Protea, at which place we arrived at a
quarter past three. My dearest wife rode out to
meet us. I was right glad to see Capetown and
Table Mountain once more, as we approached our
home.
100 CONCLUSION.
And now let me record my deep gratitude to
Almighty God for having brought me safely back to
my home and family, after a journey of nearly 3,000
miles, througli a strange land, and an absence of four
months. I cannot be too thankful for the many
mercies which have attended me throughout. I left
home enfeebled and worn : I return in strength and
health. I have been enabled to keep every engage-
ment I have made, and in almost eveiy case to the
day. I have never been prevented from officiating
on any occasion, either through sickness or accident.
I have seen our people, though long and grievously
neglected, still clinging to their mother Church, and
ready to make great personal exertions and sacrifice
to share in her ministrations. I have seen very
remarkable effects resulting from the mere celebra-
tion of our holy services, especially Confirmation
and Holy Communion ; sufficient, were there no
other evidence, to prove them to be of God, and
apparently showing that God has been pleased to
bless the first administration of the Church s Ordi-
nances in this desolate and with a double measure
of His gracious presence. I have seen with my own
eyes the condition of the greater portion of the
Diocese, and liave been convinced that our day of
grace as a Churcli has not passed away ; but that
God has still a great work for us to do in Southern
Africa, if we have but the heart and the faith to
enter upon it. I have been enabled, I trust, to pave
the way for the erection of Churches, and the sup-
port of ministers, in almost all our towns and large
CONCLUSION, 101
villages. I have been able to confirm, altogether, in
this Visitation, nearly 900 candidates, and I return
home to meet a little band of faithful and devoted
men, whom God has been pleased to raise up for the
support of our feeble Church in this land. May
God give me grace to be thankful for these things,
and to be more earnest and devoted to His cause.
May He supply all that is wanting in this land, for
the promotion of the glory of His own great name —
the extension of the kingdom of His dear Son — and
the salvation of men's souls !
103
VISITATION AT ST. HELENA, IN 1849.
St. Helena, April 10th, Easter Tuesday, 1849.
Mt Dear ,
You will be glad, I am sure, to receive my report
of the state of Eeligion in this Island, together with
some account of my Visitation of it. I left Simons
Town on the 22d of February, in H. M. steamer.
Geyser, and had a most agreeable voyage, receiving
every attention from Captain Brown and the offi-
cers of the ship. We had prayers morning and
evening, at which the whole of the officers, and such
of the men as could be spared, regularly attended.
I need scarcely add that we had Divine Service
twice every Sunday. A more orderly and attentive
congregation I have seldom seen.
We arrived here on the morning of the 7th of
March. Captain Knipe, A. D. C. to his Excellency
Sir Patrick Ross, the Governor, came on board im-
mediately upon our anchoring, to convey me to
Plantation House, the rain preventing Sir P. Ross
from coming to receive me. He had ordered a
salute, which however I declined. On th6 Friday
after my arrival, His Excellency appointed a Levee
104 ST. HELENA.
at the Castle, at wliich about fifty gentlemen of the
island, civil and military, were present and intro-
duced. From that time to the present I have been
busily employed every day in visiting the parish-
ioners — assisting the clergy in preparing candidates
for confirmation — in confirming, in consecrating the
church and various churchyards, examination of
schools, in preaching, and in business arising out of
the Visitation — such as the repeal of local ordinances
which interfered with the Bishop's oflSce, in the con-
veyance of the churches and burial grounds, (all of
which were still in the hands of Government,) to the
See — in remodelling, and placing upon a sounder and
more extended footing the Church Society, — and I
trust also another very important ecclesiastical asso-
ciation, called the Benevolent Society.
The island itself is in many respects very inter-
esting. Plantation House reminds me much of
many of our more favoured English country resi-
dences. The house is beautifully situated amidst
woods, about three , miles from the town, with a fine
green valley in front sloping towards the sea, above
which, however, it lies full 2,000 feet. The ride to
Sandy Bay is striking, but the view of the Bay itself
singularly beautiful and remarkable. I shall not
attempt a description of it, but it is unique. I have of
course visited Longwood and Napoleon's grave, but
I shall not weary you with an account of them, as
there is nothing striking about either. "We use the
billiard room in the new house, built for him, as a
chapel, and there is an excellent congregation there.
ST. HELENA. 105
The situation of James's Town is picturesque, jamnaed
up in a narrow valley, between huge barren moun-
tains, which seem as if they would overwhelm it.
The church, though not by any means perfect in
point of architecture, is nevertheless a pleasing
building, wit-h a neat, well-proportioned tower and
spire, and is in excellent order. It faces the sea, and
is the most striking object as you approach the an-
chorage. The country church is an inferior building,
and not in good repair ; but the inhabitants have
just determined upon erecting a new building, for
which Mr. Ferry has been kind enough to furnish
plans. The cost is to be 2,500^., and the site is one
of the most lovely I have seen, commanding a most
glorious view of the mighty ocean, with a foreground
of wood and broken mountain scenery, which here
and there intersect the sea views, and cause a most
pleasing variety.
There are four clergymen now belonging to the
island : — Mr. Kempthorne, the senior Colonial Chap-
lain, whom I have appointed Commissary, Rural Dean,
and Surrogate ; Mr. Helps, Military Chaplain ; and
Mr. Bousfield, whom I sent out as Assistant Chap-
lain. Mr. Helps is absent on leave in England.
Mr. K. and Mr. B. are both excellent and devoted
men, and labouring assiduously in their sacred call-
ing. The fourth is Mr. Frey, whom I had much
satisfaction in ordaining, during my visitation, to
the holy office of Deacon, being strongly recommended
to me by the clergy and several of the laity. He
was formerly a German Missionary in India, which
106 ST. HELENA.
country he left several years ago in impaired health.
He is now master of the country Government school.
He will strictly confine himself to the duties which
properly belong to the Diaconate, continuing in his
office of teacher, and devoting his days, after two
o'clock, to visiting the poor, many of whom, espe-
cially of those who were slaves, are very ignorant,
and have been recently led into schism by a person
who came to this island a short time since, and began
by exhorting people to go to church, but, as soon as
he had ingratiated himself with some simple people,
avowed himself a strenuous advocate of the Ana-
baptist heresy. The island still greatly needs an-
other clergyman, who should devote much of his
time to visiting the poor from house to house. The
rugged and mountainous nature of the country,
coupled with the very great heat of the climate,
render it impossible for a clergyman to do as much
parochial work here as in England. Could I but see
my way clearly to the appointment of another
clergyman, I should leave this ioland with great com-
fort, leeling assured that, notwithstanding division
has, for the first time during a period of loO years,
been introduced into the community, God's good
work would prosper under the faithful ministry of
his servants. Indeed good has already been brought
out of evil ; for many of those who until now have
rested in the faith which they have received without
inquiiy, have been led to examine into tlie founda-
tion upon which it rests, and to hold, with a firmer
grasp and a clearer conviction, truths which until now
ST. HELENA, 107
they Iiad held only implicitly. Both the clergy and
myself also have felt constrained to speak more plainly
upon Church subjects and principles than we other-
wise might have done, and the result has been that
no inconsiderable number have become more devoted,
loving, obedient children of their mother Church
than they otherwise might have been.
I should add that, in addition to the country
church, small chapels, capable of holding from one
hundred to two hundred souls, are greatly needed
at Sandy Bay, Longwood, and the upper part of
James's Town, at each of which places there are ex-
cellent congregations. The people of this island are
far too poor to undertake these works at present,
having the country church to build. Unless, there-
fore, they are greatly aided by the mother Church,
they must, I fear, remain without these blessings for
many years to come.
The state of education in the island is not all that
could be wished, chiefly through the incompetency
of several of the teachers. There are eight schools.
Government and the Benevolent Society both con-
tribute liberally to this good work. I should be
very thankful if I could invite one or two teachers
from our Training Colleges, but at present I fear
very little can be done.
You are aware that this is a great depot for Afri-
cans captured from slavers. About 3,000 of these
poor creatures are landed on this island every year.
Of these nearly one half suffer in health from the
hardships they endure from their inhuman tyrants ;
108 ST. HELENA.
and about one-fourth are very heavily afflicted, I
accompanied his Excellency a few days ago in a visit
to their village or establishment in Rupert's Valley.
If anything were needed to fill the soul with burning
indisnation asrainst that master work of Satan, the
Slave-trade, it would be a visit to this institution.
There Avere less than 600 poor souls in it at the
period of my visit ; of these more than 300 were in
hospital ; some afflicted with dreadful ophthalmia ;
others with severe rheumatism ; others with dysen-
tery ; the number of deaths in the week being
twenty-one. I think I have seldom beheld a more
deplorable spectacle.
I was pained to find that no effort is made to
instruct these poor things during the time they are
in the island ; and the more so, because the Super-
intendent informed me that they show a great apti-
tude for instruction, and have a strong desire for it.
The lack of employment too for tlieir minds has a
bad effect upon their health and spirits ; so that when
sickness overtakes them, they sink at once into a
settled melancholy ; and some commit suicide, partly
from lowness of spirits, partly because, poor souls,
they imagine that after death they will return to
their much loved home and fatherland. The least
thought must convince any one that the healthy
exercise of the mind would be of great service to
them in every way ; and it is sad to think that our
Government should spend 10,000Z. a-year on this
Institution, and between 300,000/. and 400,000/. in
support of the squadron, and yet not allow the trifling
ST. HELENA. 109
sura which would be needful to supply them with a
teacher. Mr. Frey, whom I have just ordained, did
at one time undertake the work, and with some suc-
cess, but Government would not sanction the appro-
priation of a stipend.
A day or two after I had visited Rupert's Valley,
a slave ship was brought in, captured by one of our
cruisers. She was a schooner of about 100 tons,
and had 560 slaves on board. I went to see them,
that I might more fully realize their condition. The
cargo was a pai'ticularly healthy one, the number of
deaths being only about one a-day. Two were lying
dead upon the deck, and one had the day before
jumped overboard. Everything was done by the
officers and crew in charge to keep the ship clean ;
but you can conceive better than I can describe
what tlie condition of such a mass of human beings
must be in so small a space. The deck was entirely
covered with them. They had a worn look, and
wasted appearance, and were moved into the boats
like bales of goods, apparently without any will of
their own. I crept down between decks to the place
where they are usually stowed away. It might be
between three and four feet high, and the atmo-
sphere was most offensive, although not occupied by
one-third of the usual number. The condition,
however, of a slave-ship has been too often described
to make it necessary for me to enlarge upon it. I
shall only say, I never beheld a more piteous sight
— never looked upon a more affecting scene — never
before felt so powerful a call to be a Missionary. I
110 ST. HELENA.
did not quit that ship without having resolved more
firmly than ever that I would, with the grace and
help of God, commence as speedily as possible direct
Mission work in Southern Africa, and that I would
never cease entreating of the mother Church the
needful supply of men and means, tiiat the reproach
may be wiped off wliich, alas I still attaches to us, of
being almost the only body of Christians in this
great Diocese which is not engaged in the work of
the conversion of the Heathen.
I have only now to add, that I have been during
the five weeks that I have been here the guest of the
Governor, who has been to me most kind and hos-
pitable, and who, with his excellent family, takes a
deep interest in the spiritual as well as the moral and
social condition of the island under his government.
I have held two Confirmations ; at the first of which
upwards of 100 communicants presented themselves,
and at the latter we had between 300 and 400, alto-
gether nearly 500, — that is, about a tenth of the whole
population of the island. I have also consecrated
the Church at James's Town, together with the five
burial-grounds in the island ; held a Visitation, with
a special view to the reformation of some points in
which the Church was defective, and the restoration
of Church discipline ; and summoned a public meet-
ing of the inhabitants, with a view to interest them
more generally in tlie work of the Church through
means of the Church Society. The meeting, at
which his Excellency the Governor presided, was
well attended, and will, I trust, lead to a larger
ST. HELENA. Ill
measure of support towards the several objects
which the Society embraces ; — the maintenance of
the Ministry— the erection of Churches — Missions, and
a fund for Bibles, Prayer-books, and other religious
works approved by the Bishop, and the foundation
of a scholarship or scholarships, in connexion with
our Collegiate School at the Cape.
Believe me, ever.
Dear ,
Yours very faithfully,
R. Capetown.
From a Letter dated at Sea, April 23, 1849.
I HAD an affecting parting from many at St. Helena.
The circumstances of the island, together with its
being a first Visitation, compelled me to speak upon
subjects I would gladly have been silent on: I mean,
the nature and constitution of the Church — the
office and authority of a Bishop in the Church of
God — the succession of the Ministry — schism, &c.
I do not mean that these were exclusive subjects,
(God forbid.) but I was compelled to speak out on
these points more plainly than I had ever done
before, and I really believe much to the furtherance
of Christ's cause. The people there are certainly
prepared to take a deep interest in religious matters,
and some good has, I trust, been done. Tliey fol-
lowed me in crowds, and expressed much affection.
I was to have embarked on Sunday night after
Church, instead of returning to Plantation House
in the country, but several of the laity expressed a
112 ST. HELENA.
hope that I would not leave them in the dark, but
let them accompany me to the shore; so I waited till
Monday morning, and then had a large attendance
of authorities, &c. I shall never forget the kind-
ness of the Governor and his excellent family : they
received me as a brother.
The Clergy also accompanied the Bishop on board
the Geyi>er, and presented him with the following
address : —
'' My Lord, — We, the Clergy of St. Helena, beg
permission, at your Lordship's departure, to offer
our farewell tribute of most sincere veneration and
attachment. More than six years have now elapsed
since the necessity of Episcopal superintendence
over the Church in this Colony was officially repre-
sented by a memorial transmitted through Her
Majesty's Government. That necessity has now
been supplied in the person of your Lordship ; and
while reviewing the firmness and delicacy with which
the high and sacred functions of a Bishop have been
introduced amongst a peo^ile to whom they were
before unknown, we cannot but most heartily record
our gratitude to the great Head of the Church, for
directing the choice of our rulers to one endowed
with such (qualities of mind and heart — qualities
which lend a peculiar grace to every act of authority,
and render obedience on our part only a privilege.
Our gratitude for the many marks of your Lord-
ST. HELENA. 113
ship's personal kindness and regard will be best
evinced by following up with our flock that vigour
and earnestness in the service of our common Lord
which has been so singularly exemplified throughout
the whole period of your Lordship's Visitation. We
heartily pray that the Almighty Giver of all good
things may grant to your Lordship length of days
and every good gift for the continued exercise of
your high office ; and with all affectionate reverence
we would say, Father, farewell i"
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET IIILL.
I
©i^urct in t^e ©olonits.
No, XXVII.
1 t
DIOCESE OF CAPETOWN.— PART 11.
A JOURNAL
BISHOP'S VISITATION TOUE
THROUGH
THE CAPE COLONr, IN 1850.
WITH A MAP.
LONDON :
PRINTED POa
THE SOCIETT FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL;
AND SOLD BV THE
SOCIETT FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE,
GREAT QUEEN STBEET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS J
4, ROYAL exchange; & 16, HANOVER STREET, HANOVER SQUARE ;
RIVINGTONS, BELL, HATCHARDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS.
1851.
lOSDON :
B. CLAY. PBINTER, DREAD STREET HILL.
ADVERTISEMENT.
The Journal will be found to possess more than
usual interest for the general reader, as containing
geographical information not to be met with else-
where. In the course of this extensive Visitation,
which occupied the Bishop from Easter to Christ-
mas, his Lordship travelled on foot, or in his
wagon, through large tracts in which no vehicle
had been seen before, and of which no description
has been published. Many places in the accom-
panying Map (for which the Society is again, as on
former occasions, indebted to Mr. J. Arrowsmith)
were necessarily laid down solely on the authority
of the Bishop's Journal. As an ecclesiastical
document it is invaluable, containing an enduring
record of self-denial and exertions on the part of
Clergy and Laity, to an extent which has not been
surpassed in the infancy of any of our colonial
Churches.
JOUliNAL
DURING VISITATION, 1850.
On Easter Monday, April 1st, 1850, I commenced my
Fourth Visitation, intending, if God permit, to pass
through the Kari'oo to Colesberg, visiting the several
towns and villages in my way ; then to cross the Orange
River, and travel through the country called the Sove-
reignty, inhabited by the native tribes, and the rebel
Eoers, who are again in a state of commotion, to Natal.
In this Dependency I hope to remain some weeks, and
return to the Colony through Faku's territory and
British Kaffraria. I then purpose visiting the whole of
the Eastern Province, and returning home by the sea-
coast.
This visitation, if it please God to spare me to com-
plete it, will probably occupy nearly nine months ; but
I trust I may be enabled to reach Capetown before
Christmas. It would be presumptuous to reckon on
.1 safe return after so long a journey, and I do not. I
feel, however, that I am in the hands of a gracious
Father. Let Him do with His servant as seemeth good
unto Him. Only let this visitation tend to the further-
ance of His glory, and the advancement of His king-
dom ; I shall then be perfectly satisfied, whatever befals
myself.
I started on horseback with . The Rev. H. Douglas
and Mr. Davidson accompanied me a little way. The
Rev. H. M. White and the Rev. H. Badnall were in the
B
2 IJISUOP OF CAPETOWN S
cart. We rode across the flats to SteIlcn1)oscli. We bad
service there in the evening, and an excellent congrega-
tion. The Rev. F. Carlyon seems happy here, and I
trust his work is prospering.
Easter Tuesday. — A wet day. It cleared up, however,
a little, and we started again on horseback, after a meet-
ing with the Civil Commissioner and some members of
the municipality, about a site for a Church. We rode
through the bcautil'ul IJan-Hoek Pass and Drakenstein
to Pnarl, and got thoroughly wet. In our way we
passed by a new missionary institution of a Mr. Stegman,
of which the people in the neighbourhood did not speak
well. At Paarl we held service again in the evening.
I preached, and administered the Lord's Supper. The
evening was very wet, and we had but a small congre-
gation. The Rev, J. Inglis, whom I ordained Deacon
a short time since, is, I trust, doing good. The English
population is small, but Mr. Inglis is already talking
abovit a Church. At present he officiates in the Govern-
ment School-room.
April '3d. — Rode, after breakfast, through Wellington
to Mr. Bain's, who has the charge of the new road
which is being made through the mountain pass, called,
after him, liain's Kloof, — and of the convict gang who
are employed in the woi-k. He is a highly intelligent
man, and takes a great interest in Geology. He has
a considerable collection of fossils, &c. from difi'erent
parts of the Colony.
April '{III. — Rode up the pass, the scenery of uhich is
beautiful, and the views very extensive. The road, which
is nearly completed on one side, promises to be an e.\-
cellent one. In one part of it there is a tunnel of about
.'336 yards, the first that has been made in South Africa.
The whole of the work is done by convicts, of whom
there arc about 250. The Colony is indebted to Mr.
Montagu for the admirable system adopted for the
management of the convicts, and for the great public
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 3
works ivliich they have ah-eady executed. There being
no navigable rivers in the country, it is dependent
altogether upon the formation of good roads for the
opening out of its resources. Mr. Montagu has already
succeeded in carrying roads over some of the most diffi-
cult and important passes. The present road, Avhich is
nearly opposite to the Mitchel's Pass, opened last year,
will, I believe, shorten the route to the interior by at
least fifty miles.
At the top of the pass I parted with , who, with
Mr. Bain and his family, had accompanied us so far.
Mr. White and I rode on to Tulbagh, w here we arrived at
seven o'clock, after a ride of nine hours. We took up
our quarters at Mr. Shand's, the minister of the Dutch
Church, who had kindly invited us to stay with him.
We arranged that Mr. White should, upon his return,
hold service on Monday next for the few English in
the place.
April 5th. — Left Tulbagh at nine o'clock this morning ;
reached Worcester after dark. Mr. Le Sueur, the Civil
Commissioner, has been good enough to invite me to
remain with him during my visit to this place. My
time here has been spent in seeing the people, writing
letters, and holding Divine Service. Our congregations
have been very good, and many express their earnest
desire to have an English Clergyman settled in Worces-
ter. This I could not promise them, as my funds are
entirely exhausted ; but I assured them of my earnest
desire to do so, if only I could obtain sufficient means-
for his support. Since I w"as last here the inhabitants
have themselves raised a subscription of 30/. a-year for
this purpose. May God speedily enable me to provide
for their wants ! We had eight communicants ; and.
I confirmed a young man— a convert from the Church of
Rome — whom I was not able to confirm at my late visit
Monday, April 8tk. — We left Mr. Le Sueur's hospitable
mansion at dawn of day this morning. I now travel
4 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
with six horses, having been obliged to purchase tuo
more. At Mitchel's Pass Mr. Piers, magistrate of Tui-
bagh, met me to show me the site of the proposed new
village of Ceres, and to fix upon sites for church, &:c.
At the foot of the pass Mr. White left me, and returned
to Tulbagh with Dr. French, who had kindly come out in
his cart for him. He is to hold service at Tulbagh this
evening. I arrived somewhat late at Adrian Van Wyk's,
a deacon of Mr. Shand's church. I found here an English
couple who were very anxious to have their child bap-
tized. After talking to them a little, they themselves
proposed that I should have prayers. I consequently
read and explained a portion of Scripture, and united
with them in prayer. The man, who has a party of
English labourers under him, employed in road-making,
undertook to read some portion of the Morning Prayer
and the Lessons every Sunday to the labourers.
Tuesday, April 9th. — Before starting this morning,
offered prayei's with Mr. Bird, who seemed thankful.
Met the labourers on the road. All approved of my
proposition about prayers on Sundays, and said they
w ould attend. They were all members of the Church.
I undertook to get Bibles and Prayer-books sent up to
them. They live in tents, and are shortly about to move
into the very heart of the Karroo, to make Mr. Mon-
tagu's new road across these desolate plains to Beaufort.
We spent the night by the Patata river. During the
day one of my horses appeared unwell. I gave him
a dose of Battley's opium (intended for me in case of tic
in my head) mixed with some wine, that Mr. Le Sueur
had been kind enough to put up for me. I slept but
little, partly from the uncomfortableness of my bed, and
partly from anxiety for my poor sick horse, who was
tethered at my feet to the cart.
IVednesday, IQth. — Outspanned at a miserable farm of
an intelligent Dutchman (De Villiers) who speaks
English tluentlv. His wife is a sister of one of the Dutch
VISITATION JOURNAL, 18.';0. 5
ministers ; and his little boy (the only instance I have
met -R-ith) has set his heart upon becoming a " predi-
kant." Our poor horse appeared better, so as to en-
courage us to proceed ; but before we could arrive at
V. ater where Ave could outspan, he became so ill that
Ave took him out of the cart. He then appeared evi-
dently suffering from inflammation. I gave him more
laudanum, but to no purpose : we staid by him till he
died. I felt more on the occasion than I could have
conceived, for when one has no other companions,
a man soon becomes attached to his horses. While mo-
ralizing on the carcases of oxen that are strewed along
the whole length of the road, I little thought that my
poor horse would so soon be added to the number.
However, his lot may be better than that of his com-
panions, who have some months' hard work before
them, and some thousands of miles to travel before they
return home. I gave 201. for him only a few days ago.
"We saw to-day a poor ox lying helpless by himself, left
by his owner to die in the desert, being able to go no
farther. It was quite dark before we quitted our horse.
As Ludwig could not see the road, I had to run before
the cart for a mile or two, and point it out and warn
him of stones, rocks, and gullies. We arrived at
a wretched hovel at Zoute Kloof, where an uncouth
farmer, with his family, suffered us to outspan. I slept
in my cart, and would have gladly cooked my own
supper, as I have been lately doing, from my own pro-
visions ; but I thought it might give offence, so I par-
took of a very uncomfortable meal with them.
Thursday, Wth. — We see fewer spring-boks than in
the Colesberg and Graaf Reinet Karroo, and no gnus
or ostriches, though we observed traces of the latter.
The country too is more hilly, and the Karroo narro^ver.
Hitherto our route has been bounded hv a low range
of hills; they can scarcely be called mountains. To-day,
hoAvever, we came in sight of the Zwart Mountains.
6 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
Though there has evidently been much rain of late, as
is proved by a spring of green grass here and there, the
country is very dry, and it requires a sharp eye to find
out the almost imperceptible streams or puddles which
are denominated rivers. Outspanned at the Ghielbeck
River, where we breakfasted, or rather dined off' our
stores, and where I was able to wash and shave : out-
spanned again at Groote Rivier. We slept at Bluid
Rivicr in the bed of a torrent. While settling myself
here I remembered Judge Musgrave's warning never to
do this. A thunder-storm fifty miles to the north might
have the effect of changing the dry bed, covered with
di'ift wood, into a foaming torrent, and wash us all away
■vvithovit more than a few minutes' notice. The night
appeared very fine, and we could no where else get shel-
ter for our horses from the wind, so we outspanned in
a soft sandy place.
As an instance of the value of land in the Karroo, I
may mention that a farmer told me that he rented 5,000
morgen (10,000 acres) of government for II. a-year.
Friday, \2th. — A dreary day's journey over barren,
stony hills. There having been rain lately, we found
water in most of the rivers. We passed the night at
the Bitter-water River. On remarking upon the more
than usual muddiness of the water, Ludwig observed,
" It is just like milk."
Saturdini, \?>th. — Still the same barren dreary route,
over stony hills. I was happy to get a bathe in a
muddy pool in the Gamha River, caused by the late rains,
which have evidently preceded us. We arrived at Beau-
fort at seven o'clock in the dark. I found Mr. Welby
had reached that place about an hour before me. He
had been out nearly the whole week, and both he and
his horses were knocked up by the ride.
Sunday, l-ith. — We held divine service in the govern-
ment school-room. The congregation was about seventy
both in the mornins and eveninsr. I confirmed five can-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 7
didates, and we had four communicants. The numbers
were small, but Mr. Maynard has only been a few weeks
here, and these are the first-fruits of his ministry. I
am thankful to hear all the parishioners speak very
highh' of him. He has made a most favourable impres-
sion. God grant His blessing to the work. I grieve to
see symptoms of jealousy here, as elsewhere, and that
attempts are made to prejudice the minds of some
against the Church. This perhaps was only to have
been expected, but it is painful. Mr. Welby preached
in the morning. I addressed the candidates and preached
in the evening.
Manclmj, \5th. — Writing before breakfast. Great part
of this day was spent in receiving and paying visits. I
met also the Church committee, and we settled finally
the sites of the church, parsonage, and burial-ground,
concerning which there had been some liltle difference
of opinion. I was particularly interested in one visit
which I paid to an aged widow lady, whom I remem-
bered to have conversed with on my former visitation,
when she and her brother Avere the only communicants.
She is a " widow indeed." Her Bible and her Prayer-book
are her chief companions, and she is full of faith, and
humilit}', and zeal. When last I was here she besought
me more earnestly than any one else to send a clergy-
man, telling me she had been thirty-six years in the
colony without seeing the face of a minister of her
Church. Her earnest prayer has been daily offered xip
for a faithful pastor, and GoD has in mercy heard her
prayer. She seemed full of gratitude and love, and sor-
row that she could not do more for her Lord. It
refreshed my spirit greatly to converse with her, and to
see how God had, apart from outward means, thus
trained and perfected a soul. Her great desire now is
to see all her children, Avho, almost from necessity, have
joined another communion, return to the bosom of their
mother-church before she dies. Some have already
8 BrsHOP OF Capetown's
done this/ One I am to confirm (nitli a few others)
before I leave; and others are hesitating:, and will, I
trust, by God's mercy, be led ere long to seek re-com-
munion with the Church which has not until now been
a mother to them. We had divine service in the evening.
Congregation about seventy, Mr. Maynard preached,
'i'wo or three of the parishioners afterwards came to
tea.
Tuesday, I6//1. — After breakfast attended a puljlic exa-
mination of the government school, Avhich I thought in
a satisfactory state. Afterwards called on several of
the parishioners. At two o'clock a vestry was held for
the election of churchwardens. To this succeeded a
meeting to take steps for the immediate erection of a
church. A good spirit prevailed, and I trust that ere
long it will be commenced. The meeting lasted some
time, and I entered upon the subjects of missions, —
schools, — and the supportof the ministry, with reference
to my pastoral letter. In the evening Ave held divine
service again, when I preached. There aa ere three more
candidates for confirmation, whom I addressed extem-
pore. The day was ended with a party of the parish-
ioners to tea.
Wednesday, \~th. — Started this morning a little after
light. I rode with Mr. Welby, and his servant went in
the cart. I leave this place with much comfort, and a
good hope that the Church will take root there. Mr.
Maynard has already impi'cssed his parishioners very
favourably, and he has an active assistant in his wife.
Difficulties there doubtless are in his path, and jealousies
exist there as in most other places ; but amidst it all,
the work is prospering, and, if we prove faithful, it will
prosper. Vv'e outspanncd at Rhinoster Kop, and slept
at the farm of an Englishman, .Mr. Martine, who received
us very kindly.
2'/iursday, ISl/i. — .\ long day's journey through the
Karroo. We were eleven hours in the saddle. I find
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 9
that K.afirs and Fingos begin to appear Lere as labour-
ing servants at the farms. One farmer to-day had just
engaged a Kafir as herd. He had 100 head of oxen,
and 200 sheep, and these were to be maintained on the
farm in heu of wages. There was a party of seven
Kafirs on a neighbouring farm who also had a large
stock. In fact, they are a kind of itinerating farmers.
We passed the night at Camdeboo, at the foot of a very
fine mountain. It was late before we arrived at a farm,
which the farmers in this country do not like. They
had had their supper. Nothing, however, could be
kinder than they were. They soon prepared food for
us, and gave up their beds to us. But neither of us
slept the whole night, for very sufficient causes. We
were off again about half-past four o'clock by starlight,
and had a very long day to Graaf Reinet, — not less than
twelve hours. Our horses, however, seemed quite fresh.
It is wonderful how these animals travel. We cannot
have passed over less than sixty miles of very bad road
to-day. We outspanned three times. Once only did we
get a bundle of forage for each of them. At the other
places they picked up what grass they could find. Luckily
for them there had been very heavy rains lately. The
ride to-day has been a very beautiful one. The forms of
the mountains are very striking. We found Mr. and Mrs.
Long quite well, but not expecting us till to-mon'ow.
They were, however, on the look out for the Archdeacon,
who is coming up to meet me with his Kafir and English
servants, and a horse carrying a tent. We walked out
after tea to look at the new church by moonlight. It is
a very correct Early English biiilding, though they have
not been able to carry out exactly the plans which I sent
them. It nevertheless is exceedingly well-built, and is,
I think, at present, the best cluu'ch in the diocese.
Saturday, 20ih. — A great portion of the day spent in
receiving and paying visits. Long conversation Avith
the churchwardens. The archdeacon not making his
10 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
appearance, we walked out in tlie afternoon to look for
him. We met liini at some distance, coming on alone,
with a hag over his shoulders, a handle under his arm,
and his staff in his hand. He had been delayed a day
from the loss of his horse, which had either strayed or
been stolen in the night. lie therefore deposited his
tent in a Kafir hut, sent his English servant home, and
walked on -with his Kafir man, who, as usual, had sore
feet, and, being knocked up, was lagging behind. We
returned in time for evening service, when we had a
very good congregation. Mr. Welby preached ; the
archdeacon and I sat up till very late in conversation.
Sunday, 2\st. — This day I held a confirmation. There
were fourteen candidates, amongst them the archdeacon's
man Wilhelm, who is the first Kafir who has been thus
received into the Church. He was very devout and
attentive. May he be the first-fruits of an abundant
harvest. There were about thirty communicants. The
offerings were for the new church. The archdeacon
preached. I addressed the candidates. The school-
room was quite full. In the evening it was again
crowded, when I preached. I had much conversation
to-day uith the archdeacon respecting the foundation of
our mission in Kaffraria. I must endeavour, if I can,
to take Graaf lleinet again, on my return from Kaffraria,
and consecrate the church.
Mondaji, 22(1. — We had at least thirty at morning
prayers, and a large congregation in the evening, when
Mr. Well)y preached. The day was spent chiefly in
conversation upon subjects relating to the church, and
in returning visits. We dined vith Mr. Heugh, the
churchwarden. Within the last few months a Romish
priest, accompanied by three nuns, has arrived here
These latter have devoted themselves to the work of
education, with, at present, but little success. The
priest appears an indiscreet man. to say the least. He
is a Belgian, and is full of the subject of modern Romish
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 11
miracles, upon wLicli lie enlarges in the society of those
■who have no faith in them. In his sermons he is very
vehement in his denunciations of Luther and Calvin. I
have been much pleased with my visit to Graaf Reinet.
Great interest seems to be taken in the work of the
Church. The congregations have been excellent. Here,
as everywhere, in spite of government schools, main-
tained at great expense, people are looking to us to
supply them with education. Having been consulted
about bringing out a teacher, I have expressed a readi-
ness to provide a deacon-schoolmaster upon the guaran-
tee of an income of 100/. a-year. The schoolmaster will
be curate to the minister of the parish, and assist him
in his duties. In course of time I trust, with the aid of
schoolmasters, to be able to supply the outlying districts
with at least occasional services. It is almost impossible
for farmers, living at a distance of twenty or thirty miles
from church, to come in frequently for the Sunday ser-
vices. The inability to leave their farms for any length
of time without servants upon whom they can depend
(for the coloured servants cannot be relied on), together
with the expense, prevents many families from attend-
ing. One gentleman in this parish is very anxious to
erect a small oratory for his own and the neighbouring
farms. I shall be glad to see these springing up in
different parts of the country, and trust that by combining
education with the ministry of the Church, Ave may ere
long be able to do more than we can at present for the
country districts.
Wednesday, 2ith. — My journey to Richmond has oc-
cupied two days. The first day's journey lay through
the Sneewberg, on the road to Beaufort, which I travelled
in my last visitation. The weather has become quite
cold, but we are on very high ground. On arriving at
the village, I found an empty house prepared for my
reception. Many of the Dutch farmers have built small
houses for themselves, which they occupy during the
12 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
" nacht-maal" (communion), and occasionally when they
come in on a Sunday. They have in foct their town-
house and their country-house, just as our forefivthers
had in the county towns in England. Upon my arrival,
Mr. Hope, the Civil Commissioner, came to call upon
lue, and very hospitably entertained me during my stay.
I went Avith him to call upon Mr. Beranger, the Dutch
minister, -vvho kindly placed his church at my disposal,
and gave orders to have it lighted for evening service.
I had scarcely time to take a look round the village,
and partake of Mr. Hope's dinner before church time.
There was a very good congregation. I understood
that all the English, and many of the Dutch inhabitants
were there. It was the first time that the prayers of
the Church of England had ever been offered in the vil-
lage — the first time that a minister of that Church had
ever set foot in it. Moreover, there is not now, nor
has there ever been, T believe, a religious teacher of any
English sect in the place. I was pained to find how
little acquaintance the English seemed to have Avith the
Liturgy. Jvone knelt, — none even stood, — all sat mo-
tionless even while singing the 100th Psalm. One or
two voices indeed were raised up to repeat the re-
sponses, but even they did it irregularly, and not at all
during the reading of the Psalms. I must do the poor
people the justice to say that they felt and lamented
this, and pressed me earnestly to send them some
Prayer-books. I preached to them partly extempore,
and invited all who desired my counsel and advice to
visit me at my lodging in the morning. Several came,
—one, brought up an Unitarian, Avhose family had
turned Romanists, desired to be confirmed in the Eng-
lish Church, and, if needful, to be baptized. He was an
educated man, and I promised to send him some books,
and to make arrangements for his reception into the
Church. Others came to state their conviction that
thcv were falling away from God, and their sorrow for
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50, 13
it, — others to express their desire to live nearer to God,
and their inability to do so, and to complain of their
destitute spiritual condition. One undertook to call the
English together, and endeavour to make arrangements
for the erection of a Church-school. I told him that I
^vould give 20/. towards it, if a suitable building Avere
erected, and made over to the Church. I also promised
to endeavour to get a teacher who should hold divine
service in the schoolroom ; but told him it was very un-
certain whether I should be able to afford to send one,
as my means were at present quite exhausted. This is
just the place for a steady, earnest deacon-schoolmaster.
I must endeavour, if possible, to obtain one. May the
Lord provide ! I fear that many of the English, circum-
stanced as these poor people are, very rapidly fall away.
The absence of a minister of the Church, and of almost
every restraint to w hich at home they vvere accustomed,
is generally too much for them.
The high wages and the cheap wine and brandy lead
to much intoxication. One man, who told me he
Avas in the receipt of 2/. a-week, actually came to beg
of me. I left the place with very painful and melan-
choly feelings. At the next circuit court at Graaf
Reinet, seven Africanders resident in this village are to
be tried for forcibly carrying off from the custody of
the magistrate some Kafirs who had offended them,
and for othei" deeds of violence. A Kafir in a state of
intoxication tumbled, as I understand, against a child.
A scuffle ensued between the Africanders and the Kafir
and his companions. The Kafirs were taken into
custody, and committed to prison for ten days. The
Africanders did not think the punishment sufficiently
heavy : they therefore seized the prisoners in defiance
of the law, carried them away, and beat them. They
afterwards Avent in a body, and armed, to the Kafir
location, and drove them all away, shooting at several
of them as they ran off, but killing none. None of
14 BISHOP OF Capetown's
these men have since returned. It seems very doubtful
whether a jury can be found which will return, be the
evidence ever so clear, a verdict of guilty on such an
occasion.^ I left Richmond for Colesberg at one o'clock,
having employed my whole morning in conversing with
the people who came to see me. We slept at a Mr.
Ackerman's, who has a property of 60,000 acres in the
Karroo. I could not induce him to accept of any pay-
ment either for myself or my horses. One occasionally
meets with genuine hospitality of this kind, though in
only one other instance has a farmer refused to be paid.
On no one occasion, while travelling through the colony,
have I ever been refused admittance into the Boer's
houses. At most places they expect only to be paid
for the forage, and are not imfrequently surprised at
receiving payment for board and lodging. I should
always, however, if it were not for my horses and man,
prefer the open veldt to a fiirm-house. One is more
independent, one can sit down to write, (a matter of
great importance to me, followed as I am from place to
place with large packets of letters.) The necessity of
talking to the people without ha\dng anything but
a smattering of the language is very wearisome. If
my dear friend the archdeacon, while performing his
pedestrian visitations, is sometimes shown to the door,
and refused a morsel of meat, and told as a favour he
may lie in an out-house, it is, I believe, in consequence
of their suspicions of him, and not from any desire to
be inhospitable. They cannot believe that a predikant
would walk. They never knew or heard of such a thing,
and take him for an impostor — a discharged soldier
— a convict. It is in vain to tell them that our Lord
and Master and His holy apostles walked. It may have
been so. But they know that predikants don't walk.
Our second night was passed near a mud house about
three hours from Colesberg. The building not looking
(1) The parties were all acquitted.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 15
very tempting, I passed the night in the cart. The
country from Richmond to Colesberg is like the rest of
the Karroo, dreary, dry, and monotonous. Up till to-
day, we have seen very little game. This afternoon,
however, we came across immense herds of spi-ing-bok,
and several quaggas, and wilde-beestes. The country
■was as Avell stocked as an English gentleman's park.
We still continue to ascend, and have been coming up
bill ever since leaving Worcester. We arrived in Coles-
berg a little after ten o'clock. After getting thoroughly
■washed, and having partaken of some breakfast, I went
to look at the church, which is about breast-high. The
plan which I gave has been followed more accurately
than I could have expected, and the building will be
respectable. I could have wished, indeed, that it had
been all of stone, instead of brick plastered, but the
great expense of working stone, and the scanty means
of the small English community, precluded the idea.
Soon after my arrival, one of the deacons of the Dutch
church came to inform me that some of the elders of
that church, farmers in the country, objected to my
using the Dutch church for service to-morrow, and to
consult me as to what was to be done. It had been
offered by the minister and accepted by Dr. Orpen ;
some few of the parishioners, however, found fault with
their minister for lending it, though the great majority
were, I believe, quite willing. Of course, I declined
■using it, and regretted exceedingly that my visit to the
place should in any way be a source of discord between
the minister and his people. I afterwards called on
Mr. Reed to thank him for his kindness, and to say that
I would officiate in the court-house. I believe their
objections arose partly from the bad spirit which is
afloat with regard to the English, in consequence of the
anti-convict agitation, partly from the close connexion
of many of these farmers with the rebel Boers over the
Orange River, whose spirit they have in some measure
16 BISHOP OF CAPETOWX'S
imbibed, and partly from their confounding our Church
with the Roman communion, in consequence of its
episcopacy. The Dutch generally throughout the
colony entertain strong feelings of antipathy against
the Romanists, and have a great dread of them. They
for the most part know nothing of the Romish faith,
and are themselves so credulous and ignorant, that they
would fall easy victims to that Church's teaching, were
it not for their wholesome fear of it. The recent arrival
of several Romish priests has added to their alarm.
The Romish Bishop is, I understand, to be here next
Sunday.
We held our service in the court-house, where Dr.
Orpen officiates until the church shall be built. The
congregation was about seventy in the morning, and
quite filled the room ; the communicants were twenty.
Eight candidates presented themselves for confirmation.
The collections at the offertory were devoted to the
new church. In the evening I preached again, on love,
— charity, — thinking it a suitable subject under present
circumstances.
Motiday, 2\)th. — Called on some of the parishioners.
Attended a meeting of the Church committee. Had
much conversation with Dr. Orpen respecting the work
of the ministry in the parish. In the evening again we
held divine service, Avhen I preached. The court-house
was quite full.
30//*. — Left Colesberg this morning at 8 o'clock for
Bloem-fontcin. The first house in the sovereignty
belongs to an English farmer, where we out-spanned.
Slept at Phihpolis, the capital of Adam Kok's territory.
Mr. and Mrs. Van der Scholk (of the London Missionary
Society) received me very kindly. In the evening I
called upon Captain Adam Kok, who is the chief of
a portion of the Griquas. He is a very common-place
looking man, — a Christian, and, I believe, a sincere one.
He does not appear to have much authority over his
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 17
people. His country forms part of the Sovereignty,
but he governs it under British protection. Any Euro-
peans, however, that may be living in his territory are
under British rule, and he has no authority over thera.
At this present time I understand that he and other
chiefs are much dissatisfied with the government regula-
tions respecting land. Several Dutch Boers hold farms
under him upon lease, the payment, I imagine, being
nearly nominal. At the expiration of the leases, govern-
ment requires the Griquas to pay the tenants for the
improvements made upon the iiivms by the erection of
buildings, &c., or to lose the land altogether. This
they feel ro be oppressive, and assert, with I know not
what truth, that nothing was said about such payment
in the original agreements. Philipolis is a tolerable-
sized village, and has its chapel and school. The Mis-
sionary speaks with much interest of his work, and
says, that very many of the people are sincere Chris-
tians. He has received upwards of 100/. from them
this year, as their contribution towards the London
Missionary Society. He thinks also that the Griquas
are advancing in civilization and industry. Some with
whom I conversed on the subject at Colesberg think
differently. The country is fertile, with abundance of
springs. The farms (if you may call them so) appear
very poor and miserable. I did not see a single patch
of ground under cultivation, though I am told there is
a good deal. Adam Kok has a pension of 300/. a-year
from the British Government. There is a rumour
here to-day that Moshesh's brother has attacked the
Boers.
May \st. — Started by daylight. The road from here to
Bloem-fontein is as good generally as a road in England,
though the hand of man has not been employed upon
it. The country throughout consists of large plains
bounded by low mountains or rocky koppies. There is
abundance of game — the gnu, b!eiS-bok, and spring-
C
18 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
bok. There are also a great many of the beautiful
cranes of the country, and some fine eagles. We found
no forage at any of the places we stopped at, but there
is abundance of grass. We staid for a short time at
Mr. Wright's farm at Boom-plaats, and I surveyed the
field of Sir II. Smith's late battle with the Boers. The
rebels were posted behind some strong koppies ; but
retreated speedily from one to the other, till their retreat
became a rout. I visited the graves of our brave
officers and soldiers, who are buried in a walled en-
closure in the middle of Mr. Wright's garden. Hearing
that they had been buried without any religious service,
I read our office for the burial of the dead over their
remains. I did so because it was a satisfaction to my-
self to do it, and because I thought that it might be
some consolation to surviving friends and relatives. I
should have remained here for the niglit if I could have
obtained forage, but hearing that there was some at the
next farm, we pushed on, but did not arrive till after it
was dark. Our reception %vas at first not very cordial ;
and I mention the circumstance because it illustrates
both the bad and the good side of the Dutch Boer's
character, and is perhaps indicative of the state of
feeling of these enterprising but self-outlawed men to-
wards the English government and people. We asked
if we might outspan for the night. The farmer replied,
" Yes, but that 1 must sleep in my cart, for he had no
room." I then asked if he had forage. " No, he had
none." "Was there mucli grass?" "No, the locusts
had eaten it, and there was scarce any." " Would he
sell half a bushel of wheat, for the horses were very
hungry, and even a little would prevent them from
straying during tlie night?'' "No, he had scarce
enough for himself." I went in with him to his house,
and sat down and talked. After a little while bis heart
began to soften, and when he saw that I was still
an.vious about the horses, he ordered his son to fetch
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 19
a sack of oats, and measured out nearly a muid, so that
our poor animals had abundance. He made me how-
ever pay, as I was quite willing to do, an exorbitant price.
Afterwards we went in to supper, and were very friendly,
and in the morning he helped us to inspan, and gave us
our cup of coffee. I should have mentioned that at
first he tried hard to induce us to go on to the next
farm, where he said there was forage. This however
was impossible. It was so dark that I had been obliged
for some time to go before the horses to point out the
path, and it was beginning to thunder and lighten
around us in every direction. Seeing the night was
likely to turn out a bad one, they invited Ludwig to
sleep in the house. After a very good night in my cart,
we proceeded on our way, and arrived at Bethany about
half-past nine. This is a station of the Berlin Missionary
Society for the Coranna people, who, I believe, are the
same race as the Hottentot. The Missionaries received
me not only very kindly, but with evident respect for
my office. The Mission at present is only just reco-
vering from the effects of the late war. During the
disturbances of the Boers, the whole of the people under
instruction were dispersed. Many have never returned.
The present number of inhabitants in the village is about
500. These consist of several tribes, Corannas, Bechu-
anas, Bastards, and Bushmen. The school consists of
about 100. There were not more than fifty present
to-day. It had been intended to be a holiday, the
teacher having gone out with the Government Surveyor,
to mark the boundaries of the land belonging to the
Mission, upon which the farmers were encroaching (the
extent of which they told me was, according to Adam
Kok's original grant, an hour's ride in every direction
from the Mission premises). The children repeated the
Lord's Prayer in Dutch, and sang very prettily. They
did not appear to know much, or to show great intel-
ligence. But what is to be expected from a mixed race
20 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
SO drawn top:cthcr, after little more than a year's train-
ing? The Missionaries of the Eerlin Society are, I be-
lieve, all strict Lutherans. They adhere to the Augsburg
Confession, and to the Luthcrnn views of the sacra-
ments. They complained to me of the very unsound
views generally taught by English dissenting missionaries,
■vvith reference to the sacrament of Baptism, "which,"
they said, "being spoken of generally as only a sign or
mark, the coloured people confovmded it with the signs
or marks made upon their cattle, and did not esteem it
in any higher light than this." They spoke also of the
evils already resulting, and likely to do so to a much
greater extent, as the coloured people become more
educated, from the variety of sects and societies which
exist in Southei-n Africa. This is a subject which it is
impossible for any thoughtful mind to ponder, without
many anxious forebodings. Christianity is, 1 believe,
presented to South Africa under twenty distinct forms
and associations. What, fifty years hence, will be the
result ?
We passed the night near a half-ruined farm, where
I found an Englishman with liis wife and family. I was
happy to have the opportunity of uniting with them, in
this spiritual desert, in prayer. They w ere members of
the Church of England, and seemed respectable people,
lie had lost all his savings, first, by the Kafir war, and
then again, a second time, by the Boers, who, upon the
Ijrcaking out of the late rebellion, had robbed him, as
an Englishman, of everything, even of his Bible and
Prayer-book. There are a great many lions and wolves
in tills ncighbourliood. One of the latter came prowling
about us very early in the morning. We started before
daylight, and after outspanning at a very kind and
obliging Dutch farmer's, arrived at Bloem-fontein about
eleven o'clock. A party of gentlemen rode or drove out
to meet me. My morning was spent in receiving
^isit i: s. At three o'clock a deputation from the mili-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 21
tary and civilians waited on me, and presented an
address expressive of their satisfaction at my arrival
amongst them, and their hope that it might lead to the
establishment of a church and clergyman in this village.
They placed also in my hands a list of subscriptions
towards a church, amounting to 200^. and stated that
they expected to raise 300/. We had some interesting
conversation. I informed them that hearing of their
zeal and exertions while at Colesberg, I had written
from that place to my Commissary, requesting him to
send out a Clergyman especially for them, fur that T
regarded the efl'iirt they were making as a Providential
opening, and did not feel at liberty to hold back, while
God seemed to be beckoning on. I told them, however,
that all my funds were exhausted, and that I had no
means of supporting an additional Minister; that I had
applied without success to the High Commissioner for
a stipend towards a Clergyman, and that therefore if
one were to be permanently maintained here, it must
be chiefly through their own offerings. I did not press
them to enter into any engagements at the present
time ; but I m ished the members of the Church at the
very outset clearly to understand how I was circum-
stanced. After this interview I walked over the village
with Major WarJeu, the British resident, who had
kindly inviled me to stay at his house during my visit.
About five I met the Church Building Committee, and
we decided upon sites for Church, Burial-ground, Par-
sonage, School, and upon the erection of a church to
hold 200, for which I undertook to furnish plans.
Major Warden promised to bring the subject under the
notice of the High Commissioner, with a view to
obtain from him the like assistance which has been
grauted towards the erection of the Dutch Church.
I own I feel that an equal measure of favour has not
hitherto been shown to our Church. There are two
Dutch ministers already appointed, each with a salary
22 BISHOP OF Capetown's
of 250/. Could more ministers be found, tliey would,
I understand, receive similar appointments. In the
capital and only villa;jje in the Sovereignty, the popu-
lation is nearly exclusively English. 1,400/. has already
been paid to Government for erven ; — nine-tenths of
this, Major W.arden informs me, are from Englishmen.
Out of this sum 500/. has been given to the church and
school, the church (Dutch) receiving 3'20/., the school
180/. The whole amount of subscriptions to the Dutch
church is 3,000 doHars (225/.) Hitherto ^ve have got
nothing for our church, and I have been refused 100/.
a-year towards a Clergyman's stipend, although there
are 250 of our troops here besides the civilians. At
Smithficld, I understand, the whole fund arising from
the sale of erven is promised to the Dutch Church ; at
Harrismith, one-half; at Winburg, I believe, two-thirds.
The great bulk of the population in these villages will
probably be English. Bloem-fontein is rapidly rising in
importance. A press is coming up, and a newspaper is
about to be started. The Romish bishop is soon to
visit it, with a view, I understand, to fix a priest there,
and the Methodists have decided upon planting a station
in the village. Everything is of course in a very rough
state. There is nothing remarkable in the situation of
tlie village ; it is defended by a rude fort, mounted with
four guns. In the evening I met Dr. Frazer and Mr.
Murray, the zealous young Dutch minister, at dinner.
He was placed here, I believe, when little more than
twenty-one years of age, and has had a very difficult
post to fill, which he has done with great zeal and dis-
cretion.
Saturday, May \th. — The greater part of this day has
been occupied in preparing candidates for Confirmation,
and in other spiritual works. Several of the officers
and the Civil Commissioners dined with M.ijor Warden
in tlie evening.
Sunday, btli. — I began this day's services with a mar-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 23
riage. At ten o'clock ■we had morning prayers and a
sermon for the troops in an open shed. Some of the
civilians attended, and there was an excellent congre-
gation. Immediately after this, I consecrated the mili-
tary burial-ground, Avhich has been very neatly walled
in, and which already contains forty bodies. At half-
past one, we had afternoon service in the school-house.
The room was crowded, and the congregation consisted
nearly exclusively of English. Three children were
baptized after the second lesson ; four candidates were
confirmed, whom I addressed at some length ; ten com-
municated ; our collection at the offertory was for the
new church, and amounted to 151. As I preached again,
the service lasted nearly three hours, and we encroached
upon the time appointed for the Dutch service. There
was not room in the building for many of the Dutch
people, but they crowded round the doors and windows
throughout the whole time. It happens to be the
Sunday appointed for their " aanneming," or confirma-
tion, which is without imposition of hands. I counted
nearly fifty wagons in the outskirts of the village.
Monday 6l/i. — A busy morning. Employed in writing
letters on business, &c. I shall probably have no
opportunity of writing again for a month. Afterwards
called upon the members of the Church residing in the
village. Dined with the officers.
Tuesday, 7f/i. — Started this morning on horseback for
Thaba-Umchu, the kraal, or rather town, of the chief
Marokko, accompanied by two Cape Corps orderlies, who
are to be my guides through the country in my visits
to one or two Missionary stations. Mr. Murray, the
Minister of the Dutch church, rode with me part of the
way, and several English came out for about a mile on
the road to take leave. I had also the honour of a
salute from the guns of the fort on my departure,
though when I heard of this compliment being about to
be paid, I begged to decline it. After a ride of forty-five
24 BISHOP OF Capetown's
miles we arrived at Thaba-Umclui, which is a sinjular-
lookiiig native town of considerable size. There are,
I believe, about 2,000 houses, and the populntion is
about 8,000. Each house is surrounded by a low stone
wall, making a kind of court. The houses are round,
built of clay, and thatched. I went into one which had
a sort of inner room, in which in cold Mcather the
inmates sleep. The inhabitants are Bechuanas of the
Barolong tribe. They are very rich in cattle : some
private individuals have, I understand, 1,000 head of
cattle, and 100 horses. Indeed the whole country for
some miles round seemed covered with cattle. There
are not more than 1.50 Christians. The school has about
60 scholars. The chapel is a very poor one ; another
is about to be built. This tribe practices circumcision.
Polygamy is very common. The men sew, and make
carosses; the women do all the hard work, build the
houses, cultivate the ground, &c. The chief is not a
Christian, but is much under the influence of the Mis-
sionary, Mr. Cameron, of the Wesleyan Society, with
whom I took up my quarters, and who was very hospi-
table. The Heathen are always glad, for political
reasons, to have a Missionary residing at their kraal.
I went to see the chief Marokko : he was silting with
his counsellors over a lire, in their council chamber,
which was a mere open court surrounded by a fence.
They were discussing the subject of tlie meeting to be
held in a day or two, with some other chiefs and the
British Resident, lie seemed glad to see me, and shook
hands very heartily. Every petty chief who can get
together a party of followers is entitled to be of tiie
Council. There are a great many of these in this large
town. Each of them appears to have from ten to fifteen
huts about him. I sat up till late with Mr. Cameron,
talking over Missions, the Church, and Wesleyanism,
and afterwards passed an excellent night on his sofa.
I fear Marokko's people have not yet advaced far in
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 25
rivilizntion. The greater number of tliem still wear
nothing hut the carosse. They appear very indolent.
How these 8,000 people employ themselves is marvel-
lous. Some of them indeed are engaged in tending
their flocks. A small proportion cultivate patches of
ground in which Kafir corn is sown ; but the great
majority seem to have nothing to do, and to do nothing.
I understand they purchase a great part of the grain
which they consume from other tribes, giving cattle in
exchange. There seems an abundance of land capable
of growing wheat. I did not see a single garden, except
the Missionary's, in the whole place. One native Chris-
tian has built a stone house, in imitation of the English.
These people, in personal appearance, manner, and
bearing, are far inferior to the Kafirs. The country has
a very bare appearance, having no trees, and scarce
a single bush. It is covered with a close grass, which
is well cropped by the numerous herds.
Wednesday, 8t/i. — I put down here, while I have a little
leisure, — (not often the case,) — during which my horses
are browsing midway between Thaba-Umchu and Mac-
quatlin, (Molitzani's kraal,) some few circumstances re-
lating to this distant country. The Vaal Rjver is now
the boundary which separates the Sovereignty from the
Boers who refuse to recognise British authority. These
men have formed themselves into a Republic, and have
their "Raad" (Council): the exact constitution, how-
ever, of their government they have not fixed, though
they have had many meetings. I understand that they
are about 10,000 in number. Their feelings are very
bitter against the English Government. Some regard
that Government as Antichrist; some the Queen in per-
son. They took Dr. Frayer of Bloem-fontein a prisoner
not long since, for presuming to cross the Vaal River
while hunting, having no permission from them to enter
into their territory. It appears quite clear, I think,
that they have amongst them at least a modified form
26 BISHOP OF Capetown's
of slavery. Several people in 'Blocm-fontein, including,
I think, both the Resident and Civil Commissioner,
informed me that it ivas not uncommon for them to
jiurchase a cliild for a heifer. Yowng Mr. Murray ad-
mitted that tliiswas occasionally the case. The greater
number of these people are very anxious for a predikant
and a church, and they have pledged themselves to a
sum of, I believe, 270/. a-year. They are desirous of
giving a call to Mr. Murray, who, on his part, would be
cpiite willing to go, if he could see a prospect of his
place at Bloem-fontein being supplied ; but the Dutch
Church seems quite incapable of providing a sufficient
body of Ministers for its own increasing wants, although
there is no difficulty about stipend. I understand that
at this moment there are not less than twelve vacant
parishes.
To return, however, to the Boers : some few of these
refuse to receive Mr. Murray's ministrations, in conse-
quence of his connexion with the British (Jovernment.
They will not (on religious grounds and scruples) allow
him to baptize or marry, although of course great evils
are daily arising from their inability to partake of these
ordinances, from any other quarter. There is a party
also of Boers who think they are on their way to Jeru-
salem, and that they are not very far distant from it.
They are deceived by the apparent nearness of Kgypt
in some of the maps in their old Bibles. There are
some symptoms of a growing fanaticism amongst these
poor people. The Dutch Boer, wherever he may be,
and under whatever circumstances, never casts off his
respect for religion. There is nothing sceptical in his
mind. Perhaps he lacks the energy and mental activity
which generally lead to infidelity where the means of
grace are wanting. His religion, however, is tradi-
tionary. It exercises no very great influence over him.
He is very superstitions, and would offer just a field for
the Romanist to exercise his ministry upon, were it not
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 27
for tbe extreme dread, terror, and dislike, with wbicb
he regards Popery.'
(1) The following extract from a recent paper (The Friend of the Sove-
reignty) will help to exhibit the present position of these people: — " We
are credibly informed that not only has Potgieter dpslroyed the chiefs
mentioned in a former issue, but that he has killed many of the people of
those chiefs, taking captive about 300 of their children, who are declared,
on authority that we cannot reasonably doubt, to have heen sold as slaves
to the Portuguese Government at Delagoa Bay . . . Pretoriiis disap-
proved of the conduct of Potgieter, and even threatened the Governor of
Delagoa that if such proceedings were repeated, he would chastise him
severely by force of arms. This threat the Boers are well able to put in
force, the garrison at Delagoa consisting only of about 100 natives, and
a few Portuguese officers and soldiers. With regard to the three
18-pounders that they procured from Delagoa Bay, they first offered to
purchase them, but the Governor refusing to sell, for fear of annoying
the English Government, they then took them by force. When the
guns were brought to Pretorius he again otfered to pay the Governor of
Delagoa for them, but he replied that all he required of them was the
safe return of the guns. They have now three guns at Mooi River, and
three at Magaliesberg. Tliey have made a return of all the men capable
of bearing arms within the Republic, between tbe ages of sixteen and
sixty years, and the total number is 3,600. This includes all parties, the
' travellers to Jerusalem,' the followers of Potgieter, Pretorius, Slanders,
and Burman. Previous to the last election of Commandant, General
Burman, the Hollander, sent round lists, and had actually got 2,000
persons to sign in his favour; but at the sitting of the Raad, Pretorius'
party refused to admit him into the Council, a complete uproar ensued,
and, after hearing a long speech from Pretorius, they finally turned him
out. After this they were not at all unanimous, but after much noise
and confusion, Pretorius at length got the day.
" The Boers, in council assembled, al>o came to the determination of
drawing up a protest to the American and French consuls, and also to
the Governor of the Colony, demanding the surrender to them of the
Sovereignty and Natal. This protest was seen by our informant, iiume-
rously signed, but by far the greatest portion of the names he was not
able to decipher. He also states that they are in correspondence with
influential persons in the Colony. They have from 3,000 to -1,000 lbs. of
powder in the magazine at Mooi River dorp. He states that the Boers
are becoming very poor ; that the best farms are neglected, and that
hnnting and talking of politics are their only occupations. He had been
in many of their houses, and often found that all the eatables they could
produce were a little wilde-beest flesh.
" He also states tliat 800 of them are opposed to any law or government
whatever, and only a few of the latest trekkers have a friendly feeling
towards the English Government, and these dare not express their
views."
28 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
Wc rode to-day a distance of about forty nules tlirougli
a fine 2;rassy country to Makqiiatlin, the village of the
chief Molitzani. There were neither bushes nor trees
to be seen tlie whole day; l)iit the hills became higher
and more picturesque, as we approached the village.
We saw one village of Marokko's people at a distance,
and met with a great many cattle. There was scarce
any game to be seen. Makquatlin is beautifully situ-
ated at the foot of a semicircular mountain. The
appearance of it was very pleasing as we approached.
The sun was setting full upon it, and everything looked
cheerful. The houses indeed of the natives, wlio are of
the Basuto tribes and the Bechuana race, are inferior to
Marokko's. They are built entirely of reed or grass,
like the Kafirs' and Fingoes', but they have a very small
court of reed, generally in front. Altogether they do
not look nearly so comfortable as Marokko's houses.
The village is much sniallcr than Thaba-Umchu, and
contains perhaps about 1,200 souls. There appeared,
however, a much larger tract of country under cultiva-
tion than at that place, which, considering the dispro-
portion of the population, is very striking, and speaks
much for the industry of these people. Indeed, I am
told, that they grow more grain (which is always Indian,
or Kafir corn) than is required for their own consump-
tion, and that Marokko's people purchase of them.
'I'he chapel here is a neat brick building erected by the
natives, who have also just finished a school. The
Mission-house has an excellent garden in front of it.
Mr. andMrs. Daumas (of the Paris Missionary Society)
received me very kindly. The hearing them converse in
French with their little family brought hoaie (ibr Europe
seems like home) vividly before me. I had much interest-
ing conversation with him during the co\irse of the even-
in?. His converts are about 100. His school consists of
about 100. In their natural state these Heathen beUeve
in the existence of gods; they regard their ancestors as
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 29
p:ocls, and sacrifice to tliem occasionally a goat or an ox.
They believe in the immortality of the soul. He told me
of some facts vvliich induce him to think that some of
the tribes believe in the transmigration of soids. In the
evening, after tea, I walked out with Mr. Daumas into
the village. He took me to see some of the native
Christian houses. These are built after the European
i'ashion, and there is an effort at neatness. Several of
them have nice gardens, walled in, and abounding in
fruit-trees, walnut, plum, lemon, and orange, whicli
Mr. Daumas has introduced. They are beginning^also
to plant trees before their houses. I conversed with
some of the Christians. As far as I am able to judge,
they appear to be sincere. I went to call upon Molit-
zani, but met him vuth one or two companions walking
through the village wrapped in his carosse. I told him
" I \^ould not pass through his country without calling
npon him, for he was one of the powers that be, which
we Christians believe are ordained of God." I had some
little conversation witli him about Christianity. He
has just been suffering greatly from war with the neigh-
bouring chief, Sinkoneyalla, who burnt down, a few
months since, the village in which he lived, distant about
a mile from the present one. The effect of this war has
been very unfavourable to the Mission work. It has
unsettled the minds even of the best of the people. It
has brutalized many, and has stopped all improvement.
The Missionary and his wife spoke with great pain of
his. One striking thing occurred during the war. Mc-
litzani with his warriors was compelled to fly from his
village and country. '1 he Missionary remained. Molit-
zani and his people sent their wi^ es and children, pro-
perty, &c., to the Mission station, fully assured they
would be safe there. The chapel and the house were,
upon Sinkoneyalla's approach, filled with aged women,
and children. Sinkoneyalla respected the sanctuary,
lie sent word to the Missionary that he knew he was
30 BlSflOP OF CAPETOWN'S
a servant of God, and that he wished for peace and not
war. Not a thing or person was tonchcd, although the
village about a mile off was burnt to the ground. i
On my ride next morning to Merimitzo, at which
place Major Warden had appointed to meet the Chiefs
Marokko, Molitzani, and Sinkoneyalla, to settle disputes
arising out of the war, I passed through a country
which a few months ago was full of life, but is now a
desert. We passed, I think, not less than half-a-dozen
deserted kraals, and did not see a single living being,
or a single head of cattle, or, indeed, any game. All
was desolate. The inhabitants, through fear of Sinkon-
eyalla, had forsaken their country, and had not yet
dared to return. We witnessed on a small scale the
fearful ravages of war. Mr. Daumas pointed out to me
one kraal, the head man of which was an aged brother
of Molitzani's. When the people under him fled, he
chose to remain, because the Corannas under the chief
Gert Taibosch had assured him. that, being an old man,
he would not be interfered with. Sinkoneyalla, how-
ever, murdered hini in cold blood. He showed me
another spot near which we passed, where a son of
Molitzani's was killed with a few followers. It appears
that though Molitzani had every reason to expect
an attack from Sinkoneyalla, he made no preparation
against it. Consequently, w hen news was brought that
the enemy was approaching, all were in bed. Their
(1) Since writing the above, nearly eight months ago, Molitzani, having
attacked a neighbouring Mission station, was called to account for it hjr
the British Resident. As he refused to give satisfaction and to pay the
line imposed, a body of troops from Bloem-fontein was marched against
him, and Marokko invited to join tlieni in chastising him. He was
attacked and defeated, and a large number of cattle taken from him,
a portion of which were given to Marokko. Soon after Marokko's return
home he was attacked by Moshesh, the most powerful chitf in the Sove-
reignty, and 4,00J head of cattle were taken from him We have insisted
on Moshesh restoring these and giving satisfaction. Up to this time he
has not done so: and. at this stage of affairs, war has broken out with
the Kafirs. Any attempt now to punish Moshesh would add greatly to
the dangers to which the Colony is exposed.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 31
horses had to be caught, and their arms prepared. Mo-
litzani's son put himself at the head of about eighteen
followers, and, against the entreaties of his father, went
out to meet 800 horsemen. Not one of his party, I be-
lieve, returned to the village. On this occasion, the
Corannas under Gert Taibosch joined with Sinkoneyalla
as allies. The war being at an end, they, in their turn,
being but a small tribe of about 300 men, have fled out
of the country, fearing the revenge of Molitzani. They
have trekked beyond the Boers to Jan Bhjem's country,
who is also a Coranna chief; but many of his cattle,
probably stolen from Molitzani, having died, Major
Warden hears he wishes to come back again and resume
his territory. The Corannas are said to be a remnant
of the old Hottentots, and they say that their forefathers
lived near the Cape. Having been long accustomed to
the use of fire-arms, which the other tribes in the neigh-
bourhood are as yet novices in, they are formidable
enemies. When we arrived at Gert Taibosch's village of
Merimitzo, I was surprised to find such sliglit remains
of a tribe having dwelt there. There were only the ruins
of one or two huts. There was a Wesleyan Mission to
this tribe. The premises were still standing, though
somewhat ruined. All the windows of the dwelling-
house, in which a table and a bedstead still remained,
were broken. The out-buildings were in a state of dila-
pidation. The same room was used here both for school
and chapel — a very unfortunate and improper arrange-
ment, I think; for surely, if we come to teach the heathen
that there is a GoD, and that they must reverence and
worship Him, we should be careful to distinguish God's
house, and make them feel the sacredness thereof Mr.
Daumas spoke to me of this, and of the importance of
attending to these things. In the present case, the
chapel was the most shabby building on the station, and
its broken and defaced pulpit, with the whole scene
around, filled me with mehmcholy reflections. We
32 BISHOP OF Capetown's
arrived nearly an hour before Major Warden, Shortly
after he joined iis, Molitzani, nith a considerable number
of followers, came up. He had exchanged his dirty,
though picturesque, carosse, in which 1 had seen him the
night before, for a white hat, a long drab coat su( h as
our farmers wear, and corduroy trow.sers. Many of his
followers had imitated him ; others were still in their
ordinary dn-sses ; they all looked very common-place.
After waiting some time in hopes that Marokko and
Sinkoneyalla would appear, I was obliged to take my
leave, as I was anxious to join my cart, which was
distant about two hours from the place of meeting, mean-
ing, if possible, to push on a few miles on my road before
night-fall. Major Warden accordingly ordered two of
the Cape Corps to accompany me as guides, one of whom
said he knew the way, and Molitzani called one of his
]>eople out the crow d, who was said to be acquainted with
the country. After receiving full instructions we started,
and rode hard for between three and four hours, when
we came to a road, and all admitted they knew not
which way to go. After directing the man to off saddle,
I mounted the highest hill in the neighbourhood to take
a view of the country. Nothing was to be seen but one
dreary waste. I found, however, on the top of the
mountain a very extensive deserted stone kraal or village,
whicli had evidently been lixed upon that exposed spot
lor purposes of defence. I could not learn to whom it
belonged. At present Sinkoneyalla is ihe only chief
who avails himself of the natural resources of the coun-
try for purposes of deience. lie lives, I understand,
upon the top of a mountain to which there is but one
approach, liy the time I liad descended, it was getting
dark. As our horses were knocked up, I thought ic
better to spend the night in the kraal, which would prove
some shelter to us. Happily, the soldiers did not ap-
prove of my counsel. We started, therefore, on foot, one
of the orderlies being so still" that he could not mount
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 33
his horse. He soon, however, gi-ew weary of walking,
and, with my help, managed to get into his saddle. I
Avalked on alone. At one time, being somewhat in ad-
vance of the others, I was tracked by some wild animal,
which, however, did not venture to interfere with me.
Several more were howling round about. In about an
hour and a half's time one of the soldiers descried a light
in the distance, and another half-hour brought us to a farm
close by Winburg, where the owner received us kindlj%
In such a country as this, where you may travel for
days without seeing a house or meeting a person, it is
a serious matter to lose one's way, especially if un-
provided, as I was, with food. I did not, however, feel
the least uneasy, knowing that I was in the hands of a
gracious Father, who had brought me through greater
difficulties than the present. It was while I was ill the
act of offering up the Lord's Prayer, under a very strong
sense of the presence of God, that the man cried out he
saw a light. We got some supper here, and forage jbr
our horses, and I passed a very tolerable night in a
wagon, standing by the house. My men also found
shelter, and well it was they did, for it rained nearly the
whole night. A farmer's house in this part of the
country seldom has more than one room, and that with-
out door or window-frame. In this room the whole fa-
mily, and frequently strangers, sleep. This Avould be
still more inconvenient and objectionable than it is, were
it the custom to undress at night ; but this is not the case.
I understand it is thought sufiicieut to do this once a-
week.
Next morning we started in the rain for Geldenhuis
farm, where my cart was, and reached it about eight
o'clock, having gone about 25 miles out of our way.
After washing and dressing, I started in ray cart, right
glad to find myself once more in it. x\fter travelling
about two hours, we came precisely to the same spot,
where I discovered that we had lost our way, just twenty
D
34 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
hours before. This day's journey was through a fine
grass country, abounding in game. There were no trees
nor bushes, but low mountains of a picturesque appear-
ance, chiefly on our right hand. We arived at night at
an encampment of Boers, who were trekking over the
Vaal River with their flocks and hci'ds, near to which was
the wretched hovel of a farmer, who spoke very bitterly
against the British Government. They gave us, how-
ever, some spring-bok for supper. The night was so
cold that I could scarce sleep at all. We were ofi" early
again, our poor horses, which have had nothing but the
dry grass of the country for the last two days, looking
very disconsolate. This evening we were to have ar-
rived at Mr. Bester's, a Dutch farmer, who was impli-
cated in the late rebellion, but whom the Governor,
wishing to conciliate the Boers, appointed magistrate of
Harrisraith. We were, however, unable to reach his
house, and therefore outspanned in the veldt. Being a
cold night, and somewhat fearing lest our horses should
be attacked by lions, which abound in this part of the
country, we set fire to the grass, both for warmth and to
frighten away wild beasts. I had intended to spend
the next day, being Sunday, quietly at Mr. Bester's ;
but I was compelled to proceed on my journey, there
being no water for the horses where we were. Mr.
Bester's house lying out of the road, we missed it, and
arrived about eleven o'clock at a Hottentot's house,
whose name is Old Isaak. Here I determined to spend
the Sunday. I found one or two English traders there,
as well as several Dutch farmers. After enjoying the
luxury of a thorough washing, and having had some
breakfast, I collected together the few people that were
about the place, and held divine service, preaching to
them extempore. I had scarcely finished, and was yet talk-
ing to the people, when my dear friend and companion in
my former visitation, the Rev. J. Green of Maritzburg,
Natal, stood before me. He had ridden six days to meet
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 35
me, accompanied by a son of Mr. Moodie, Secretary to
Government at Natal. His intention was to have waited
for me at Harrismith ; but he passed it in the dusk on Sa-
turday, and, finding himself late last night half-way to this
place, came on here. I was delighted to meet him again,
and we had, of course, much interesting conversation.
Neither of us had much rest that night. There was a
party of coloured people who spent most of the night in
playing the fiddle and dancing. The dogs — the ducks —
the horses — the oxen, kept running about, uttering their
various and discordant cries throughout the night. We
were off by day-light the next morning. The nature of
the country was still the same, but the features of it
more striking. As we approached Harrismith, we caught
views of some fine-shaped mountains. We out-spanned
for the night by the Wilge (or Willow) River, which, like
the Elands, had the appearance of a real, though small
river, which is not the case with most of the so-called
rivers in South Africa, Mr. Green rode on with Mr.
Moodie to Harrismith, intending to spend the night there,
and recover a horse, which, beingknocked up, he had sent
there. Shortly after he had left us, I discovered that
either he or I was in the wrong road. Believing that he
was in the road to Maritzburg, instead of to Harrismith,
I became very uneasy about him, and sent Ludwig out
to fire signal guns. Some time after his return from a
fruitless effort to recall him, I went out and fired also,
and hallooed for some time, but could hear nothing of
him. I returned therefore to my cart, feeling assured that
he must spend the night, which was dark, cold, and wet,
in the veldt. I had scarce, however, made ready my
hammock, and wrapped myself up in my carosse, before
Ludwig heard the horses' tramp, and in a few minutes I
welcomed them back with joy. After giving them some
cold ham and biscuits, we endeavoured to sleep, being
very weary, and passed a better night than could have
been expected, sitting up in the cart. We were three
36 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
above, and two below. Curtains being fixed round the
bottom of the cart, and meeting one another, my men
have always a dry and warm bed, be the weather what
it may.
Next morning Green rode to Harrismith to fetch his
horse. I commissioned him at the same time to endea-
vour, if possible, to fix upon sites for the future church,
parsonage, and school, before all the erven are sold.
At present there are not more than two or three houses
in the village ; bv\t, if the Sovereignty is continued as
part of the British possessions, and peace is maintained
for a few years, it probably will become an important
village or town. The country is more pleasing than
that which I have lately passed through ; the mountains
are fine, but there is no timber. The soil appears to be
good, and I should think it is well watered. The grass
grows to a very great height, but it is now either
withered or burnt, and the horses appear to dislike it
very much.
As evening came on, we began the descent of the
Drakenberg. It was so very precipitous, that the pole
cracked in several places, even though we unloaded the
cart, and carried all the luggage ourselves for a distance
of upwards of half a mile. Night surprised us during
this operation. We therefore outspanned at the bottom
of the steepest declivity. I never knew my driver
baffled with a difficulty before. As the pole had cracked
before we reached the worst part of the road, he said he
did not dare to "reim" (lock) the wheel; and that if we
went down with it unlocked, all would roll into the
precipice below. He said we nnist turn back, we could
not attempt the descent. As this, however, was impos-
sible, we did attempt it, and arrived safe at the bottom,
though through many dangers. I understand a cart
has never been down before. The wagons of the
country can, if they please, lock all the wheels. We
spent the night again very uncomfortably, and with
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 37
little sleep, sitting or reclining as well as we could in
the cart.
When day dawned and we proceeded in our descent,
(which I did on foot, considerably in advance of the
cart,) a glorious view presented itself. All the kloofs
in the mountains around us and above us were covered
Avith wood, to which our eyes of late had been but
little accustomed. Before us was a vast range of country
of an undulating character, an apparently interminable
succession of hill and dale. The grass, which on the
other side of the mountain was dry and Avithered, was
here, especially in the kloofs, green and verdant, and
several sorts of flowers were still in blossom. I know
not whether the change of scene affected me at all, but
I have seldom enjoyed a two hours' walk more. During
the whole of tlie time I was enabled to maintain almost
uninterrupted communion Avith God. The cart had
scarcely overtaken me, before we reached a deep ravine,
near to the first house Avhich we have seen for nearly
four days. In descending this, the pole snapped in
sunder, and at one time I thought my driver Avould
have been killed, and the cart dashed to pieces. Happily,
however, the horses, perhaps through fatigue, behaved
very well, and the cart reached the bed of the river with
little additional damage. A kind farmer in the neigh-
bourhood brought his wagon and Kafirs, with wood
and forage, and we were enabled to splice our pole, and
proceed on our journey after two or three hours' delay.
We again slept in the veldt. On the following day
we passed through a pleasing country without further
serious accident, though the front board of the cart
gave way altogether, — our swingle broke, — the iron
ring which fastened the harness of the four front horses
to the pole snapped in two, and we had several similar
trifling misfortunes. The soil of the country seems
very fertile. Much of the grass is as high as full-grown
wheat in England. A great portion, however, has been
38 BISHOP OF capeto\vn's
burnt by the farmers, as is usual in this country during
autumn, there not being sufficient stock to consume all
that nature supplies. This custom destroys the trees
along with the grass, which causes the country to appear
somewhat bare, though in several parts the mimosa
appears. We passed one fine river, the Tugela, in
Avhich I bathed, as I have been enabled to do also for
the last three days, — much to my refreshment ; for
having so little sleep, and not being able to lie down,
I am getting somewhat fatigued. A life like that I am
now leading, makes a man feel that he is a wayfarer,
— that he is a stranger and a pilgrim upon earth, — that
this is not his home or rest. God grant that it may lead
me more and more, day by day, to prepare, as I trust it
is in some measure doing, to enter into that rest that
"^remaineth for the people of God.''
We passed the night by the banks of a little stream.
Our horses having strayed to some distance during the
night, we were long in finding them, and therefore did
not start very earlj\ I had been three hours on foot
before the cart overtook me. There are a great many
ancient Kafir kraals all along the road, which evidently
were raised by the former inhabitants of the country,
who have now passed away ; for I understand that there
are not more than two petty chiefs of the ancient tribes
remaining in the whole dependency. The 100,000
coloured people who now dwell in the country, and have
had considerable tracts of land assigned to them, are
chiefly refugees from the tyranny of Panda find other
chiefs. Two of these came up to us while we were
cooking our supper last night in the veldt. Wc did not
see them for some time, it being very dark. They were
thankful for some food and tea which we gave them,
and expressed their gratitude in a superabundance of
complimentary epithets at their departure.
We breakfasted at the Bushman's Drift, a military
post upon a fine river — at least fine for South Africa.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. ' 39
It has been placed there to check the depredations of
the Bvishmen who dwell in the Drakenberg mountains,
which are their strongholds. These men are the great
cattle-stealers of this colony, and the Sovereignty. I am
told that if they are followed w^hen stealing cattle, and
are closely pressed, they will kill their spoil, in order
that at least it may not fall alive into the hands of its
owner. The Bushmen appear to be the most lost and
degraded of all the tribes of South Africa. They are
very bold and daring. Quite lately thirteen of them
committed an atrocious murder in the Sovereignty
under peculiar circumstances. Some of them were in
the employ of a Dutch farmer. He had been in the
habit of giving them tobacco. On one occasion when
they asked for it, he either had none to give, or would
give none. His Bushman servant said he would be
revenged. In about a week after the refusal he came
by night Avith a party of thirteen of his tribe, and
attacked the farmer's house. When he appeared at his
door they shot him with their poisoned arrows, and then
entered his house, and killed his wife and all his children
in cold blood, battering in their skulls with Knob Keries.
Troops were sent out to apprehend them when the
murder was discovered. They made a determined resist-
ance, occupying a kraal for defence. Six were killed
before the party would surrender. The remainder
were brought to Bloem-fonteiu, tried, condemned, and
hanged.
The officers at the Post did me the favour to call upon
me where I was outspanning, and supplied all our
wants. From thence we went over a very hilly country
with wretched roads, to the Mooi River, where we had
some supper in an Englishman's hut, and pushed on by
moonlight a little further, being anxious to make sure
of reaching Maritzburg the next night. We outspanned,
as usual, in the veldt. This is the ninth night that
I have been unable to undress, or go to bed, while I
40 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
have been taking long walks every day. I am surprised
that I am not more fatigued than I find myself to be.
The next morning we arrived at the Umgeni River to
breakfast, after a drive of four hours over a hilly country.
Here there is a very beautiful fall. The river rushes
over a perpendicular rock into a valley which is about
three hundred feet below. The valley itself is wooded
and picturesque. I do not know that I have seen
a finer fall in any part of the world. Before we left this
spot, a party rode up from Maritzburg. Having under-
stood from them that His Honour the Governor, Avho
had kindly invited me before I left Capetown to pay
him a visit, was expecting nie at his house, I resolved to
drive there at once.
We arrived at Maritzburg about four o'clock. The
first view I caught of it was from the top of the moun-
tain at whose feet it lay. The descent to it is long and
steep. We were rejoiced to look again upon human
beings and dwelling-houses, after having travelled so
many days without seeing any signs of life. Maritzburg
is not like any of the villages in the old colony. Perhaps
it resembles George more than any other place. No
one expected our arrival for at least a week to come.
They were disposed to think it impossible that I could
accomplish the jourjiey in the time proposed. I told
them that I make it a point to keep my engagements, if
possible. Before I left Capetown I ^rrote to say that
" possibly I might be here on Thursday — more likely
on Friday — probably not till Saturday." I should
have been here on the Friday had I not gone one day
out of my road to visit the Mission stations in the Sove-
reignty. I bless God that he hath brought me to this
distant part of the Diocese in health and safety ; and
heartily do I pray that my visitation here may tend to
the promotion of His glory, the advancement of His
kingdom, and the good of the souls of this people.
The Governor received me very kindly, and has, I am
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 41
sorry to say, given up Ws own rooms for my accommo-
dation.
I calculate that I have travelled 1,400 miles with the
same horses, in less than seven weeks. Mr. Green
has ridden not less than 400 miles to meet me.
Whitsundai/, May \'dth, 1850.— An interesting day. A
little more than a year ago there was no Clergyman of
the Church of England in this Colony, nor, as far as the
members of the Church could see, any prospect of one
being appointed. Now there are two; one here and the
other at the Bay.i A large emigrant population is,
however, flowing in, and there is a vast missionary work
lying before the Church, amongst the 100,000 Zoolus
that have of late come into the Colony. We shall need,
therefore, a considerable increase in the number of our
Clergy, if we are in good earnest to undertake the work
God has given us to do. Our services were held this
morning in the Government school-room, a large and
commodious building, the upper end of which is parti-
tioned off for divine service. It is fitted up with a decent
Communion-table, a very handsome Early English stone
font, well executed, and a massive lectern, carved and
made of the finest wood in the colony. There was
a large congi'egation, filling the whole room. Every
thing was done decently and in order, and in accordance
with the rubrics. There were twenty-five communicants.
I preached both in the morning and evening. When
the choir broke forth with the Psalm, " O come, let us
sing unto the Lord, let us heartily rejoice in the strength
of our salvation," I was for the moment quite overcome.
That text, " How shall I sing the Lord's song in a
strange land?" rushed into my mind. It was not that
I was moved by any desponding or ungrateful feelings,
but I could not refrain from tears. The sacredness of
the day itself, its peculiar appropriateness for the first
(1) A third has since arrived, sent out by the Society for ike Fropaga-
iion of the Gospel.
42 BISHOP OF Capetown's
service of the first bisliop of the Church of God in this
land, — the devout and reverential manner of the congre-
gation that had been gathered by the zeal and earnest-
ness of my dear friend, — gratitude to Almighty God for
Avhat He has already ^vrought for us in this land, — and
a very fervent desire that God, " who as at this time
did teach the hearts of His faithful people by sending to
■thera the light of His Holy Spirit," might pour out
abundantly the gift of His Spirit upon our infant
Church, — all these contributed to make me feel very
deeply the services of this day.
Maij 2bth.— l have been at Maritzburg now a week.
My whole time has been fully occupied with receiving
and paying visits, — the examination of Mr. Steabler for
Ordination, the Confirmation, and the preparation of
Sermons. It is a comfort to have the daily prayers of
the Church established in this far-distant land. The
sacrifice of prayer, and praise, and intercession, is un-
interruptedly offered, and will, I trust, prevail with God.
The worshippers, indeed, are not many, but there are
a few who value the privilege ; and Christ's promised
presence is, assuredly, not withheld.
On Thursday the Confirmation took place. There
were forty-four candidates, amongst whom were several
of the military. The congregation was large, and all
behaved devoutly. Several Dutch were present, and
amongst them their minister. He told me afterwards
that his people liked the service, but objected to the
coloured people, of whom there were several, being
confirmed along with the rest. He reasoned with them
on the subject, but it will require some time to eradicate
their prejudices.
I have had much interesting conversation with the
Governor this week. He seems disposed to devote
his whole energies to the improvement of the colony.
I have seen much also of the other public servants,
and especially of Mr. Shepstone, the very able super-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 43
intendent, or chief, of the whole coloured population
of the colony. We dined one day with the Secre-
tary to Government; another, at the camp, with the
officers of the 45th regiment. On the other days the
Governor has had one or two of the chief inhabitants
to dinner.
On Friday, being the Queen's birth-day, the troops
fired a royal salute, and paraded before the Governor ;
and in the evening His Honour had a party. After the
review I went with the Governor to the Colonial Office
to receive the ambassadors of Panda, Chief or King of
the Zoolus, who had come to congratulate him on his
arrival. Mr. Shepstone told us they were the same mes-
sengers who had been sent on all occasions during the
last two or three years. He said that one of them was
a subtle-minded clever man. Theyhad no clothing except
a dark kind of blanket, or horse-cloth, and were fine,
intelligent-looking men. After they had been seated,
they were invited to declare their message. This they
did sitting, with much expressive action. " They had
been sent to congratulate the Governor on his arrival,
and to wish him health and prosperity — to inform him
that Panda was not well." (This was supposed to be
said to avoid the possibility of an invitation to the
Chief to come to the colony. On a former occasion,
when invited, he excused himself on the ground that
his feet were sore ; he was offered a wagon, but replied
that he had once, in the time of the Boers, taken a jour-
ney in a wagon, and had been so shaken that he had
never recovered from it since.) They added " that
Panda admired the British Government for its justice ;
— that he liked it much better than that of the Boers ;
— that he particularly approved of the arrangement with
regard to cattle ;— that he thanked the Government for
what had been sent, and hoped that more had been
found; that the Amaswagi tribe had been entirely
conquered by Panda, and had sent in its submission."
44 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
The Governor informed tliem that he had sent an em-
bassy to Panda to announce his arrival, which had crossed
Panda's on the road ; and that he thanked them for their
message, but would give his reply on a future occasion.
The ambassadors are lodged in a kraal out of the
town, from which the inhabitants have been removed to
accommodate them. They had an ox given them for
their maintenance on their arrival two days ago. They
w ere asked if they had had it, and liked it. They re-
plied, " Yes, and had eaten it up." Another was pro-
mised, for which they were duly grateful. The formal
business being finished, a friendly conversation sprung
up. We asked them about the unhealthy country near
Delagoa Bay, upon which their country borders. They
spoke of it as marshy, full of bushes and trees ; and said
that wild beasts were there as thick as leaves, but that
all men and oxen that went near it died. The Governor
told them that I was the chief minister of religion iu
this part of the world, and said that if Panda wished for
a minister of God, and would send him word to that
effect, he would communicate with me about it. They
Avere asked how they liked the review. They admired
it very much. They could not understand how all the
soldiers marched with one step. They thought the music
showed a great house. It gave them a pain across their
stomachs. The only thing they could have dispensed
w ith was the firing ; it gave them a pain in the head.
Panda's army is enrolled in regiments, and consists
chiefly of young unmarried men, kept apart from the
rest of the population. The arrangement about cattle,
to which they alluded, arises out of the desire of Go-
vernment to check the influx of Zoolus into this colony.
Such is the tyranny of Panda, that, if no restrictions
existed, his whole people would leave him, take refuge
in the colony, and place themselves under British pro-
tection ; and thus Panda's power, which, under any cir-
cumstances, it is supposed, cannot last long, would be
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 45
entirely and immediately broken np. This, however, it
is thought, would not be a politic measure to adopt at
present, for the colony has already a very large coloured
population, — 115,000, to which it is necessary to assign
lands which would otherwise be sold ; and Panda's
neighbourhood serves as a wholesome restraint upon
those who have once felt, and might again, if they mis-
conducted themselves, feel his power. His name is
a kind of bugbear to them ; not that these poor people,
however, are disaffected, or difficult to govern ; on the
contrary, they are most docile and manageable. 'Jhey
have hardly yet, in any single case, fallen into habits of
intoxication. They show a great aptitude for labour,
and willingness to work, especially under good super-
intendence ; and they have the very greatest respect for
law and constituted authorities. Still, however, it is
thought advisable to discourage the extensive immi-
gration which is setting in, especially from Panda's
country; therefore no one is allowed to bring his cattle
with him across the frontier. He may come himself if
he likes, but he must come empty-handed. If he brings
cattle, they are taken from him, and sent to Panda, who
consoles himself for the loss of his subjects by the ap-
propriation of their property, to which, indeed, he is by
the laws of his country (that is, his own laws) entitled.
The consequence is, that there is personal safety for
those who are oppressed, and w'hose lives are threat-
ened ; but there is no encouragement given to disaffec-
tion ; and Panda himself cannot fail to be struck with
the good faith and generosity of the British Govern-
ment. It is singular enough that his former subjects,
after changing their allegiance, have no fear whatever
of his resentment, on revisiting, which they occasionally
do, their former country. Mr. Shepstoce says there are
not more than three or four men now in the colony who
would be afraid to put themselves in his power. And
these are menwhoAvere his former counsellors, and who
46 BISHOP OF CAPETOTVTJ'S
are acquainted with all his seci-ets. The right of
changing their chiefs, — transferring their allegiance, —
seems to be recognised amongst all the South African
tribes.
I should have inserted here, at greater length,
incidental notices of this very interesting people, if
I had not obtained a promise from Mr. Shepstone to
put down upon paper for me much that he told me.
There are many traditions, customs, habits, and man-
ners of these people, which he, more than any other
man, is competent to give information upon, which are
gradually dying out, and which will be altogether lost
in a short time, unless he record them. Being the son
of a Wesleyan Missionary, having lived with Kafirs
from his childhood, and being now regarded by the
115,000 Zoolus in this colony as their Inkosi Inkulu,
which brings him into daily contact with their national
life, system, laws, and polity, he has had opportunities,
greater than perhaps all other men, of acquiring an in-
timate knowledge of all that relates to them.
Tfiiiity Siindoij, May 2(ilh, 1S50, Maritzburg. — This
day I admitted to the Holy Order of Deacons the Rev.
W. A. Steabler, who came out more than two years ago
in the same ship with myself. During this period he
has approved himself as a zealous faithful labourer,
having been employed as catechist, both here and on the
frontier, with much acceptance. I purpose sending
him to commence our work at Bloem-Fontein. I took
occasion to preach plainly on the subject of the Ministry
of Christ. This I should have thought it desirable
to do under any circumstances, at the very first
ordination in a new Colony ; but I felt the more
constrained to do so, in consequence of a person
having, immediately upon my arrival, advertised
lectures and sermons, in which he has assailed the
Orders of the Church, and her services, especially
Confirmation. In the evening I preached again, on
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 47
the subject of tlie Ever Blessed Trinity. The school-
room uas quite full on each occasion.
On JMonday I was present at another interview with
Panda's messengers, when the Governor gave them his
oflficial answer. They do not like to receive messages
in writing. They carry away, however, the substance
of what is said very accurately. Some messengers also
from the Chief Faku received an audience on the same
occasion.
It will, I think, be a happy day for the native popu-
lation of South Africa when British rule shall extend,
as I think it must ere long, from the eastern frontier of
the Cape to Delagoa Bay. Before ten years shall have
passed away, this will, I apprehend, be the case. May
the Church be prepared to enter heartily upon the
important and most promising work which God in his
Providence is opening out to her !
On Tuesday I started with the Governor, who oc-
cupied a seat in my cart, for D' Urban. Several gen-
tlemen accompanied us. It is his intention to see as
much as possible of this portion of the Colony during
the next fortnight. We are to visit together the American
Mission Stations, the Cotton Company's lands, &c. The
day was unfortunately wet, and we could not see much
of the country, which was hilly, grassy, and bare. The
roads became so slippery that we could hardly travel,
ind evening came upon us before we reached Botha's,
ibout thirty miles, where we were to sleep. One of my
iorses fell in the dark just before we ai'rived. Next
morning we started after breakfast for D'Urban, distant
about twenty miles. We diverged from our road to
visit Mr. Bergthiel's settlement at Little Germany.
Mr. B. has brought out thirty-six German families,
and planted them on a farm which he has purchased.
He paid their passage out, fed them till they could
support themselves, assigned 200 acres to each family,
upon which they have built comfortable houses, supplied
48 BISHOP OF Capetown's
them with agricultural implements, and stocked in some
degree their land. Besides this, though a Jew himself,
he in part supports a JNIissionary from the Berlin Society,
and a schoolmaster, and has built both chapel and
school. There are said to be 1,200 acres of land on the
farm under the plough. The farm is of the usual extent,
viz. 6,000 acres. But beside this he has purchased
several other farms. The original cost of the farm was
500/. ; but I understand that he calculates that he has
in one way or another embarked a capital of nearly
10,000/. upon it. The greater part of this remains in
the shape of a debt from the occupiers of the land to
the owner, who has charged to their account all that he
has expended in their behalf from the time they left
Germany to the present hour. The result of this is
that each family is indebted to Mr. Bergthiel to a con-
siderable amount, varying, I understand, from 150/. to
350/. This of course places very considerable power
in the hands of the creditor. All agree, however, that
it has not been in the least abused by him. On the con-
trary, he has not only been lenient, but liberal. His
arrangement, I am informed, is that they shall pay six
per cent, interest on the debt till it is paid off, and one-
third of the produce of their land by way of rent.
Nothing, however, has as yet been paid. As to the
system itself, I conceive it is in some respects valuable.
The comforts which the people enjoy, the order, neat-
ness, and industry which prevail, all are highly impor-
tant, if only for example's sake to others. Undoubtedly
such an establishment is in many ways beneficial to the
Colony. I think also it may be considered as a safe
speculation for the proprietor. Be it, that he has
altogether laid out 10,000/. ; it is all upon his own land.
Every emigrant, though nominally enjoying a lease for
five year.^, with a right to a renewal upon the same
terms, and a promise of remuneration for improvements,
buildings, Sec. should he remove from the settlement, is
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 49.
de facto a. raevQ labourer upon the estate, fed, clothed,
and supported, but not paid. Consequently, the owner's
property is becoming more valuable from day to day,
at as cheap a rate to himself as possible. The stipend
of the Pastor and schoolmaster, indeed, bring in no
direct return. But if the labour of the emigrant's
family is worth more than the cost of his keep, every
hour that he works is a benefit to the proprietor.
Whether the system will work ultimately well for the
emigrant, is another matter. I do not think it will. He
is entirely in the hands of the proprietor, and, except
under the most liberal treatment, will be in debt all his
life. I believe Mr. Bergihiel feels that it is utterly
hopeless to expect that the debts will be paid off.
They give him, however, a very considerable power
over his tenants. Were I a poor emigrant, I would
infinitely pi-efer fighting my own way in a new Colony.
At the end of two or three years any industrious
labourer would be better off than Mr. Eergthiel's
tenants. He would not have lived so comfortably during
those years, but, at the end of them, he would not be in
debt, and would probably have realized something.
I put down my impressions upon visiting this settle-
ment, because it has excited a good deal of attention,
and the system adopted is much approved of. My
statistics were gathered from conversations with those
whom Mr. B. has left in charge of the settlement
during his absence in Europe, whither he has gone to
bring out more emigrants, whom he purposes to engage
upon very liberal terms, and upon a somewhat different
system. From all that I have seen I should say that Mr.
Bergthiel may be entirely depended upon for the fulfil-,
ment of his engagements, which is more than can be
said for most speculators.
The Governor was received most loyally, and myself
also with many marks of respect. Their bell rang at
his Honour's approach. The people, headed by their
E
50 BISHOP OF CAPET0%VN'3
minister, came out in procession to meet him, with their
Psalm-books under their arms. He was welcomed with
a salute of small arms as he passed under the first of
the triumphal arches which were erected. Flowers were
strewed in the path, and at the Superintendent's house,
the minister, in the name and presence of the inhabi-
tants, addressed his Honour, thanking him for his visit,
&c., and afterwards addressed me. We returned our
thanks, and said a few words, which were interpreted to
the people, who then cheered us. After visiting one
very well cultivated allotment, we partook of a cold col-
lation at the Superintendent's house, and quitted this
interesting and beautifully situated settlement, much
pleased with all that we had seen.
Our drive to D'Urban was through a beautiful undu-
lating countr^^ I should have called it well wooded, but
the timber is so very small as scarcely to deserve the
name. Much of the country is like an English gen-
tleman's park, and brought forciblj- to my mind thoughts
of home and days long past in our dear native land.
In some of its features, too, it reminded me of the
Knysna district, though it is not, I think, equal in beauty
to that part of the Colony. We caught from several
points distant view s of the sea, and as we approached
D'Urban, commanded a full view of the bay. Unfortu-
nately, the bar has ag<ain washed up so high as to leave
only seven feet of water upon it, and ships are conse-
quently obliged to ride outside in the open anchorage.
Several gentlemen came out to meet us. The Governor
took up his abode at the house of Mr. Field, collector
of customs, and I at that of Mr. Mesham, one of the
churchwardens, the son and brother of clergymen.
June \st. — The town of D'Urban is rapidly rising.
Building seems to be the employment of every one.
At the present moment it is inundated with an influx of
emigrants, some of whom willingly remain spending their
little capital in drink and idleness after their long voyage.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 51
Others are detained from inability to get upon their
lands, Mr. Byrne's agent not being prepared to locate
them. This is causing some degree of discontent,
I cannot but fear that a labouring population, the
greater part of which is without capital, is pouring in too
fast, and that there will consequently be much distress.
How the majority of those who come are to live for the
first few months, I know not. There are not sufficient
capitalists to employ them. The land, indeed, is rich,
and will grow almost anything; but how they will
subsist till their houses are built, and their crops come
up, remains to be seen. And if they all take to cul-
tivating the soil, will there be a sufficient market?
Cotton, indeed, if the cultivation of it will pay, may be
exported to any extent, but there are, in the immediate
neighbourhood of this town, deserted cotton lands ;
although in some places it is said that this year the
crops will pay exceedingly well. I have taken two rides
with the Governor, — one to the Point, and across the
harbour to the BluflF, a projecting hill of about 300 feet
high, which runs out into the sea, and forms the western
bank at the entrance of the harbour. In the immediate
neighbourhood of the Bluff, the small remnant of one
of the original tribes of the country is still living.
The chief's name is Umneni. The tribe does not con-
sist of more than 600 souls.
Another ride which we took was to the Umgeni river.
The country is very beautiful, and I enjoyed the ride
greatly. The trees are chiefly evergreens. The convol-
vulus was creeping over the highest of them. The
bush was very thick, and flowei's were still blooming.
Amongst these I observed the hibiscus, salvia, &c.
The castor-oil, tobacco, indigo, sarsaparilla, and hemp,
grow in great abundance. Elephants abound in the hills
in the neighbourhood of D 'Urban, and as we passed
through the bush, we saw their paths in every directiou.
The tiger, wolf, and wild dog are also to be found.
52 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
On Sunday, June 2d, I preached twice, and adminis-
tered the Lord's Supper to twenty-five communicants,
in the Government school-room, which is used for
Divine Service until a church can be built. The con-
gregation in the morning was full to overflowing.
Several persons were obliged to go away unable to
obtain admittance. On the Monday, I held a Confir-
mation in the morning, when only eleven candidates
presented themselves. I afterwards attended a meeting
of the parishioners, (at which the Governor was present,)
to take into consideration the subject of the erection of a
church. There were not very many present ; but a
committee was formed to collect additional subscriptions.
I intimated to the parishioners my desire to see the
Church system of weekly collections adopted. We
began with the oifertory on Sunday, which produced
upwards of 7/.
On Tuesday morning the Governor, myself, Mr.
Green, Dr. Stanger, Mr. Shepstone, and Captain Gordon,
started on horseback to visit several of the American
Mission Stations along the north-east coast, and the
lands of the Natal Cotton Company. We are to be
out the whole week. Our first day's journey lay through
a beautiful country to Mr. Lindley's Mission Station.
The scenery partakes more of the mountain character
than any I have yet seen in the Colony. We had some
very fine views, especially where we off-saddled, at a
water-fall, where a branch of the Umgeni falls into a
basin nearly 300 feet below it. Thelatter part of our day's
ride was through a pleasing valley. I like Mr. Lindley
much. There is a plain straightforwardness about him.
He shows no desire to colour any thing. He has not
many houses in the immediate vicinity of his station,
and he does not give an encouraging account of his
work. He has been here two years, and has baptized
fifteen. There are about ten more cither baptized, or
ripe for baptism ; and he regards all these as sincere.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 53
His congregation is about forty, and be bas a school of
about thirty under the charge of a native teacher.
When be first came here, the heathen flocked around
him, and be bad large schools and congregations ; but
when they found that the gospel would interfere with
their heathen customs and practices, they held several
meetings, and resolved that they would have nothing to
do with the religion of Christ. From that time much
opposition bas been offered to the Mission work. The
men will not allow their wives to come to hear the
Missionary, or the children to go to school. They fear
that if they became Cbrisiians, they would leave them,
and they would thus lose a valuable property ; for they
buy their wives, who do all the work, and sell their
daughters. Perhaps the very opposition that is offered
is encouraging. Satan feels bis kingdom invaded. Mr.
Lindley's impression is that very many have a secret
conviction that the truths pressed upon their acceptance
are truths, but that they hate the light, and will not
come to the light, lest their deeds should be reproved.
Both he and Mr. Shepstone agree that the Zoolus
are in one respect very different from the frontier
Kafirs, — that, whereas the latter are essentially scep-
tical, and doubt or dispute all you say, the former are
ready to believe when truth is pressed upon them.
They readily, for instance, believe in the being of God,
His providence, the account of the creation, &c. The
great difficulty in the conversion of this people will be,
that they practise fearful abominations, and love to have
it so. I doubt, too, whether hereafter it will not be
found that their covetous dispositions offer a serious
impediment. They have a great desire to accumulate
property, like their countrymen, the Fingos, in the old
Colony. A great part of the Zoolu population does not
practise the rite of circumcision, which is common to
the whole Kafir race. Chaka forbade it during his reign,
and thus the custom was broken in upon. Many,
54 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
however, still practise it ; and there is a rite similar in
its nature for the females.
Wed)i€S(lay. — We rode this day through a beautiful
undulating country to the Mission Station of Mr. Lewis
Grout, Avho received us very hospitably. Mr. Lindley
accompanied us, and I had much interesting conversa-
tion with both these gentlemen respecting Missions
and the Heathen. Mr. Grout's account of his work is
not more encouraging than Mr. Lindley 's, and they say
that all their Missions are in the same state, and from
the same causes.
Mr. Grout has only about fifteen children at school,
six Christians in his Mission field, and from forty to sixty
attendants on Divine worship. He does not appear
to have any course of systematic instruction for cate-
chumens, which Mr. Lindley has, instructing them in
the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and the Ten Command-
ments, and in a short elementary Catechism. Mr.
Grout prefers commenting on the historical parts of the
Old and New Testaments, which have been translated,
and in which ihey take much interest. There is as yet
no chapel at either of these institutions. During our
day's ride we entered into several kraals, as we passed
near them. Most of the inhabitants fled and hid them-
selves at our approach. We understood that they were
afraid of the " sambok," (whip) which, I apprehend, in
days I hope for ever gone by, has been freely admi-
nistered to them by the white man.
Thursday. — Our day's ride was through a beautiful
country, covered for the first ^<i.\s miles with bush, but
afterwards consisting of extensive plains, to the Mission
Station of Mr. Alden Grout. We looked into many of
the kraals as we passed by. Such of the inmates as
were not frightened, seemed always thankful to be
noticed. When Mr. Shepstone told one of the great
men of a tribe, whom we met, who the Governor was,
he said, " It was a lucky day for him to have seen his
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 55
great chief. He should be the happier for it." These
savages have a delicate, and sometimes very striking way
of expressing themselves. The language of this man,
Mr. Shepstone said, was not merely complimentary.
In the course of the day we passed by a farm of a
newly-arrived emigrant who seemed in great discomfort,
and complained bitterly against the Government for
having taken him in, in allowing him to come here.
He said he could not live. His poor wife, with a babe
in her arms, stood by, uncomplaining, but looking un-
happy. A little further on we came to the farm of a
Mr. Morwood, who has thirty-five acres of rich land in
a high state of cultivation. The sugar-cane, tobacco,
wheat, and oats, were growing in great abundance.
He talks of founding a village. Besides his arable land,
he has a complete nursei-y-garden well stocked with a
variety of plants and trees. It is quite refreshing to
behold a farm in so advanced a state. Our day's journey
was thirty miles.
Mr. Grout's station is very beatifully situated on the
banks of the Umvoti. The view as you descend the
hill to his house is very striking. To the left you look
upon a rich well-wooded valley. To the right you see a
considerable reach of the river stretching down to the
sea, the roar of vi hose waves you hear, and which is
about six miles distant. Mr. Grout has an excellent
house, and well-stocked garden extending down to the
river.
All the rivers here abound Avith crocodiles, as does the
country with the usual kinds of wild beasts. Last Sunday
morning one of the Kafirs was much torn by a tiger.
When I was going to bathe in the morning Mr. Grout
warned me against the crocodiles, which are more
diflQcult to escape from in the water than on the land.
They frequently catch the Kafirs in the water, and
destroy animals, especially calves and dogs. Before
taking our departure on Fridaj^, we were present at an
56 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
examination of Mr. Grout's school. Of tlicse there are
two, one for adults, the other for children. There were
about fifty present, chiefly adults ; and we were much
pleased with their appearance and examination. They
were all clothed in clean dresses, which I rejoiced to see
in this distant part of the Colony ; for it is very painful
to behold the whole population, even in the towns,
walking about entirely unclothed. Nothing can be
more picturesque, indeed, than the naked Zoolu, with
his shield on his arm, his assegai and knob-keri in hand,
his fine form improved by the crown which the married
men usually wear vipou the head, and his body adorned
with rings and beads; but one soon loses all idea of the
picturesque, in a sense of the degradation of these in-
teresting people. I could not therefore but rejoice in
the conviction that Mr. Alden Grout's Mission was
being, at least in some degree, blessed to their good.
Most of those in the school either have been baptized,
or desire to be so ; and I could not but perceive that
there was a difference in their very countenances from
those of their Heathen countrymen. There was a mo-
desty, a diffidence, an innocency of look. The most
advanced read our Lord's Sermon on the Mount out of
the Gospel of St. Matthew, which has been translated
for them ; and one young woman read very fairly in
English. Mr. Shepstone was our interpreter. We put
a few questions to them. They showed an acquaintance
with the leading doctrines of the Christian faith, and
the outlines of Scripture history. They sang and chanted
very nicely, Mr. Grout confirming what other Mission-
aries had previously told me, that the Kafir language is
peculiarly adapted for chanting. Their knowledge of
arithmetic and geography was not great. The sewing
was very respectable. The young women had both cut
out and made up the clothes that they wore. I should
have enjoyed the whole scene more, and entered into it
with more spirit, had I not, just before the examination
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 57
commenced, opened tliree newspapers in succession,
which were lying on the table, and found each of them
full of accusations against the Church. May God pre-
serve us from falling into a similar spirit.
Just as we were about to mount our horses, we were
informed that there Afas to be a gathering of the Kafirs
to meet the Governor. When Mr. Shepstone told the
messengers that we could not wait, they said, " They
would burst, if they found on their arrival that their
great Chief had gone." We therefore waited for them,
and spoke a few words of kindness to them. They
shouted and clapped their hands when we took our de-
parture. Our ride this day was nearer to the sea-coast ;
the country was less undulating, but covered to a consi-
derable extent with bush. Some parts of it were very
beautiful; but it is still almost without inhabitants,
though nearly the whole of the country on the sea-coast
has already been disposed of. We arrived towards sun-
set at the Cotton Company's lands, lately sold to Mr.
Byrne. We took up our quarters in tents, which his
agent had prepared for us on the site of one of the pro-
posed new villages, and partook of an excellent dinner,
which he had managed to provide in the wilderness.
Saturday. — We examined this morning the site of the
proposed new village, which is beautifully situated on
a hill, commanding a view of the sea, and surrounded
by well-wooded hills and dales. I fixed upon sites for
chui-ch and burial-ground, and also upon 100 acres
apportioned for glebe land. Mr. Byrne's agent ex-
pressed his readiness to transfer these at once to the
see. I do not wish to detract from the apparent libe-
rality of the Company, but it must be remembered that
each adult labourer of either sex upon this property
has cost the government 100 acres of this very land for
bringing him out; and that the probable appointment
of a Clergyman or Catechist will help forward, in a
temporal point of view, the objects of the Company,
58 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
Chiving confidence to those who need it, and an air of
stability and progress to the undertaking. Several of
the emigrants formed themselves into a Church Com-
mittee, with a view to obtain funds for the support of a
minister, and to take measures for the erection of a
wattle-and-daub building, until a church can be built.
We afterwards rode through a beautiful country to
another village, called Verulam, a few miles off. This
is fixed upon for a Methodist location, and consists of
about 1 2,000 acres. I obtained a site for a church here.
There probably will be a third village on these cotton
lands, and at least three more between D'Urban and the
Umvoti. If the tide of immigration should still continue
setting into Natal, several additional Clergy will soon be
required to provide for the necessities of the people. I
think there are not less than a dozen new villages already
decided upon in several parts of the colony. After en-
deavouring to settle some disputes between the immi-
grants and the Company's agents, we proceeded on our
journey through an exceedingly beautiful country to
D'Urban, and arrived about 7 o'clock at Mr. Mesham's,
having had a most agreeable and interesting excursion.
June Qth. — We had service both in the morning and
afternoon in the government school-room. I have
heard to-day from a lady who lives in the neighbour-
hood, that the chief Umneni, of whom I have before
spoken, removed from his lands on the BhifFlast Friday.
He came to bid her farewell before he left; for they
had been kind neighbours to each other. "It was not
without sorrow that he quitted his birthplace, where
he has resided all his life, and withstood in his fast-
nesses the victorious troops of Chaka, who conquered
the whole country, and brought into subjection all the
native chiefs except this one and another. Hut now we
want his land. It is important for our growing settle-
ment at D'Urban that it should be in our possession ;
therefore he must go. He is weak, and we are strong."
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 59
If we are to pursue the system wliicli we have already
in some degree adopted towards the native tribes, the
same judgments from a just God which have already
overtaken the Boers for their cruelties and injustice
towards the poor heathen will assuredly come upon
us. I fear we are treading in their steps.
I should here observe that the local government,
acting under the instructions of Earl Grey, who takes
a deep interest in the condition of the natives, is about
to fix the whole coloured population in ten locations.
This had been decided upon for some time, but it has
never yet been carried out, and the natives are quite un-
certain as to the proper boundaries of their reserves. The
Report of the Committee appointed for locating them,
dated so far back as March, 1847, strongly recommends
that all lands set apart for the natives should be vested
in trustees for their use. I believe this to be a point of deep
importance. Unless it be done, the natives will be gradu-
ally deprived of their land. No local government will
be able to withstand the restless and insatiate demands
of the white man, even if its own wants did not tempt
it to sell, from time to time, under various pretences
which will always be forthcoming, property which has
no legal owner, and is in the hands of government. The
question is one which demands immediate attention,
and should not be postponed. The Zoolu has now a
great respect for the English. He hates the Dutch for
their injustice. There is now a saying which is be-
coming very common amongst them, which is, I think,
a very affecting one ; when he sees or feels a wrong, he
is in the habit of saying, " I should say it was wrong, if
it was not done by an Englishman." His reverence for
the English will not allow him to believe that they
would willingly do a wrong; and yet he cannot alto-
gether stifle his convictions. How long will this last?
June lOi/i. — We rode this morning along the S.W.
coast to Dr. Adams' Mission Station. The country is,
60 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
I think, not quite equal to the eastern side of D'Urban,
though it is throughout very pleasing, and we had oc-
casionally some fine views of the sea. The distance was
about twenty-four miles. Dr. and Mrs. Adams, though
not expecting us to-day, received us very kindly. During
our ride I mentioned to the Governor what I had heard
about Umncni's removal. He knew nothing about it,
and undertook to inquire into it on his return, and see
justice done.
Tuesday, Wth. — After breakfast this moniing, wc had
an examination of Dr. Adams' school. There were
fifty present, chiefly adults, and all dressed. There ivere
present also some of the chiefs, with a few of their
followers who had come to see Mr. Shepstone. They
all sang a hymn very nicely. Two or three read the
English Bible, and others read it in Kafir. I asked
them a few elementary questions respecting the Chris-
tian faith. The Governor put questions relating to their
moral and social state. Their answers were satisfactory.
Dr. Adams told us his school Avas not in a good state,
in consequence of his inability to attend to it of late,
through the ftiilure of his health. By two o'clock we
reached, according to appointment, Mrs. Dunn's farm
at Sea-view. Here I met a party of immigrants settled
in the neighbourhood, and urged them to form a Com-
mittee with a view to the erection of a church or
churches, and the maintenance of a minister. One
gentleman offered 100 acres of land for glebe, and it was
thought that 200 or 300 acres would be given. I am to
hear from them shortly. Mrs. Dunn gave us a cold
collation under a fine tree in lier grounds. The situation
of this farm is very beautiful. It commands an extensive
view of the Bay and the surrounding country. Wc
returned late in the evening to D'Urban.
Wednesday, Villi. — This morning after Divine Service I
consecrated the burial-ground. I afterwards returned
several calls of the parishioners, which I had hitherto
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 61
been unable to do. Two gentlemen, who had under-
taken to collect subscriptions towards the support of
a Clergyman or Catechist for the Cotton Company's
land, called to report that they had raised upwards of
60/., and to express their hope that the Catechist would
be able also to undertake the office of teacher to their
children, for which they promised additional payments.
Mr. Morwood also, in behalf of another Company,
volunteered a free passage out in any of their ships for
a Clergyman or Schoolmaster, 500 acres of land for
glebe, and sites for church, &c. in a new village about
to be erected, provided I would undertake to send out
a Clergyman. This I have agreed to do, though of
course the glebe will provide no adequate support for
some years.
At four o'clock I attended a meeting of the parish-
ioners of D'Urban, called with a view to promote the
erection of the new church. It was decided that a
church, for which I should furnish the plans, should be
as soon as possible erected, to hold 250 persons. From
the report of the Committee appointed at the last
meeting to raise additional subscriptions, it appeared
that upwards of 100/. had been collected, making a total
of 450/. The church will cost 1,000/. Some of the
parishioners took the opportunity of complaining that
the benches in the schoolroom had been let. I told
them that I had already expressed my opinion on that
point to the minister and churchwardens, and, as they
felt as I did on the point, would give directions that
they should be free. They objected also to the payment
of choir, clerk, and sexton, in their pi-esent impoverished
state. As some gentlemen in the room offered to lead
the choir gratuitously, I advised that a sum of 121.
a-year only should be paid for a sexton. Complaint
having also been made that 70/. had been taken from
the church-building fund, and applied to the fitting up
of the schoolroom, I suggested that the only way of
62 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
repaying it would be from the weekly offerings. It
was arranged that they should be appropriated to this
purpose and to the relief of the poor at present, though
the Missions of the Church, and other works brought
under the notice of the Church in my last pastoral letter,
were not to be altogether overlooked. We drank tea
at Mr. Lloyd's. The meeting lasted nearly four hours.
Thursday, \Zth. — After passing a great part of the
night in writing letters, I had a very busy morning,
receiving by appointment several gentlemen wlio wished
to make arrangements about Clergy and Schools. I
licensed this morning Mr. Steele as Catechist and School-
master to the immigrants on the Cotton Company's land.
This gentleman came out of Ireland, highly recom-
mended to me by many people of respectability. He
is anxious to offer himself as a candidate for Holy
Orders. After several conversations with him, I deter-
mined to receive him as a candidate for the office of
Catechist, and had him under examination the whole of
yesterday. At twelve o'clock I started in my cart on
my return to Maritzburg, the Governor following on
horseback. We slept at Botha's that night, and arrived
at the capital the next afternoon.
Suiulai/, 1 Glh. — Preached at Mr. Green's. Seven o'clock
service to the troops, who quite filled the School Chapel,
which they have erected for themselves. Preached again
at morning prayer. Mr. Green in the afternoon. Ex-
amined the Sunday School ; I Mas glad to find the
children evidently under good training.
Wednesday, 19///. — Ilode with Mr. Green and Mr.
Allison to Indaleni, the Mission Station of the latter.
The day was very warm, and by the time we arrived at
our destination I was so unwell that I was scarce able
to enter with interest into an examination of the Mission
people. After dinner, however, eight of the most ad-
vanced and intelligent converts, whom Mr. Allison
employs as teachers, sending them out to preach to the
VISITATION JOURKAL, 1850. 63
different kraals, came in and sat down upon the floor,
and we had first an examination of them, and afterwards
a conversation which lasted between two and three
hours. I was much pleased with the account which
they gave of their past Heathen and present Christian
state. They showed an acqu.iintance Avith the leading
doctrines of the Christian faith ; and, so far as I could
judge, are sincere in the profession of it. They seemed all
intelligent men, some of them remarkably so. 1 talked to
them about witchcraft. Their opinion was that the witch-
doctor had no supernatural power, but that all his preten-
sions were delusions. They could not account for the
universal belief prevalent amongst the heathen that he
has such power. I asked themAvhetherin their heathen
state they had any notion of the one true God? " No,
they believed their ancestors were gods, some good, some
evil." " Where did these gods dwell? " " Everywhere.
They flitted about, some in smakes ; " consequently they
never killed snakes. " Did they think the good and
the evil, or only the evil, were in snakes?" " Both."
" Did they worship their gods ? " " They offered sacri-
fices to them." Any one ofl'ered these saci'ifices.
They had no particular people for it. They afterwards
ate the sacrifices. " What was their belief about them-
selves when they died ? " " They would also be amongst
the gods." " The good and the evil alike?" " Yes."
" Did Panda, who was killing his subjects every day,
think he would be amongst the gods when he died ? "
" They did not suppose he ever thought on the matter."
"Did his subjects think so?" "Yes." "Did they
think there was much prospect of their countrymen, as
a whole, embracing the Gospel ?" " They thought the
prospect encouraging."
After a sleepless night, we had an examination of
such as were under instruction in the school, after
breakfast. They sang, like all the natives of this land,
very sweetly. Mr. Allison examined them in the 53d
64 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
chapter of the Propliet Isaiah. I addressed to them a
lew Avords of encouragement and exhortation. After-
wards some of them came down to wish me a good
journey. I returned to Maritzburg the same day, taking
in my way the ncAV village of Ivolo, which was being
laid out. Some few of the immigrants had arrived, and
were living in tents. They complained grievously of
their not being able to get their land marked out.
There were several from the Duke of Buccleuch's
estates. These had been very liberally provided for by
him. He had paid their passage out, and the expense
of their land journey, — a most important point, but
little thought of by poor emigrants in England, — had
supplied them with ploughs and other implements,
clothes, &c., and ordered that they should receive rations
of flour till their crops came up. For this generous
treatment they seemed very thankful. The only regret
I felt was, that no provision seemed to be made for their
spiritual wants.
Mr. Allison's is, I think, upon the whole, the most
advanced Mission station in the colony. He has alto-
gether, I believe, 120 professing Christians. Several of
these have already built houses in European fashion,
and are cultivating enclosed gardens. He has twenty
boys in his own house, maintained at an expenditure of
3o0l. a-year; 110/. has been acquired by the labour of
the people, chiefly, I believe, by the making of wheel-
barrows, which have been taken by government. He
has 10,000 acres of land, which he is allowed to occupy.
Mr. Allison's position is somewhat anomalous. He
belongs to the Wesleyan Society, who have ordered
him to leave this station, which he is unwilling to do.
He has appealed home, and is now awaiting the decision
of his case.
Saturday, 22d. — This morning I consecrated theburial-
ground after Divine Service, the Governor and many of
the congregation being present. At one o'clock we held
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 65
a public meeting, to take into consideration the subject
of the erection of the church. It appeared that during
the sixteen months of Mr. Green's ministry, a sum of up-
wards of 600^. had been raised in the parish for church
purposes ; that of this, 200/. had been expended in the
fitting up of the school, the purchase of land for the
improvement of a site for the church, fencing in the
burial-ground, maintenance of Divine worship, and in
house rent for the clergyman, — and that, therefore, 400A
remained. The grant of the Sociely for Promoting
Christian Knowledge, and my subscription, made this
altogether about 550/. A church to hold 250, of the
simplest character, it was found, would cost 1,500^,
Some were anxious that a fresh subscription should be
opened, and the church immediately begun. But the
majority of the meeting preferred depending upon the
weekly offertory alone, being convinced that as much
would be raised in that way, which they deemed more
legitimate than the other. In the end it was decided that
the windows, which would take the longest time to
complete, should be immediately begun, and that the
foundation of the building should be laid, but that the
remainder of the church should not be contracted for
until the churchwardens had 900/. actually in hand.
I informed the meeting that the Secretary at War had
refused 100/. a-year for a military chaplain. There are,
therefore, 600 of our troops still dependent upon ser-
vices voluntarily rendered to them; and the poor in
England are giving their weekly pence to suppoi't a
minister for Her Majesty's foixes.
The meeting also fully agreed with me, that it would
be most desirable, in the present circumstances of the
colony, to invest in land a sura of 450/. placed in my
hands for Church education in this district.
Siindinj, 23d. — This morning I again preached in the
military chapel, and afterwards in the church. Mr. Green
preached in the afternoon.
F
66 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN 3
Tuesday, 25th. — Confirmed at early prayer this morn-
ing four more candidates, who had not been able to
present themselves at the last confirmation. After-
wards rode out with the governor and a large party to
a review of about 900 Kafirs, who had been sum-
moned for the purpose. We were on the ground some
time before they made their appearance. After a little
delay they came pouring down in several bands from
the heights above us, chanting in a low monotonous
tone a war-song. They then ranged themselves in a
semicircular form in front of the Governor, Mr. Shep-
stone, their chief, being at their head. When all had
placed themselves, one, who acted as a kind of public
orator or herald, decked \Aitli cows' tails, brass rings,
and a variety of other ornaments, stood forth, and with
most stentorian lungs proclaimed his chief's (Mr. Shep-
stone's) praises. The people then shouted. Next,
Mr. Shepstone rode up to the Governor, and did homage
by surrendering to him bis sword. The people again
shouted for the Governor, who then rode into the midst
of them and addressed them. Afterwards, he proclaimed
a new law against cattle stealing, which is commencing
for the first time in the district. The law was, that
every kraal to which stolen cattle should be traced,
should pay a fine of five, for each ox stolen ; that every
thief .should be " eaten up," that is, lose all his cattle,
and should, besides, be well beaten.
After the law was read, the people, through their
orator, assured the Governor that they were his children,
and w ould obey his law. They then began their war-
songs and war-dances, which tribe after tribe continued
for two or three hours. Their dresses were somewhat
fantastic. Most had great feathers in their hair, or
bunches of feathers, &c. dangling about their heads,
and many were hung about with ox-tails. They had
their shields, which covered nearly the whole body, and
long sticks with them, but not their assegais. 'I here
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 67
M'ns nothing vei'y striking in the dance. They moved
generally slowly, in unison with their chant, which con-
tinued all the time, and grew louder and louder as they
proceeded. At times they worked themselves up to a
high pitch of excitement, rushing forward very vehe-
mently, beating the air with their sticks, and kicking Avith
the knee or the foot against their shields. Occasionally
some favourite warrior would rush out from the crowd,
take several bounds in the air, and endeavour to show
himself off to the best advantage. The applause which
followed was proportioned to the estimation in which
his prowess and valour were held. One man who was
figuring away was recalled, his companions telling him,
they never heard that he Avas a great Avarrior. Their
wives and children were on the ground in considerable
numbers, bringing melies and beer for the men. The
Governor, however, had already provided them Avith
ten or twelve oxen for their repast. Afterwards, they
rushed in bands up and down the hill, exhibiting their
mode of attack. Altogether, the sight Avas, I thought,
painful and humiliating. The men looked more like
demons than human beings. ^
(1) Mr. Shepstone's office, as respects the British Government, is that
of diplomatic agent. In the eyes of the natives, he is, as I have said,
as much their paramount chief, as Panda or Faku of their respective
people. He governs tliem according to their own laws. The laws of the
colony do not apply to them ; to attempt to govern them by our laws at
present, would thoroughly unhinge them, and lead ere long to disturb-
ances. It is only very gradually that they can he brought to submit to
so great a change. Mr. Shepstone, in addition to the subordinate chiefs,
is assisted, like all Kafir chieftains, by a body of counsellors. These
are sixty in number, and are amongst the most intelligent men of the
nation. Panda, who knows most of them, complimented him, he tells
me, not long since, on his selection. A few of these men are always in
attendance. Every day, sitting cross-legged on the ground, they hear
cases. Their decision is generally a very sound one, and almost always
confirmed by the " Kose." There is no lack of litigation. They are
very fond of going to law, and plead acutely, and almost inierminably.
The process is very tedious. They begin from the beginning, and men-
tion every circumstance, whether relevant or irrelevant. If you cut
fhem short, and tell them to get to the point, they will begin all over
68 BISHOP OF Capetown's
Wednesday. — I rode out to- day \wth tbe Governor
to the station of Mr. Davies of the Wesleyan Society,
There is no daily school here, and nothing to see but
some tolerable mission premises. He said his con-
gregation averaged from GO to 100 ; that he had ten
Christians, four of whom were converts from this people ;
that he had a tolerable Sunday-school, but that the
people Avere opposed to a Day-school. A neighbouring
chief with his tribe came to greet the Governor. He
complained that the white man was daily encroaching
upon the location, and that he was uncertain whether
he would be allowed to stay on his land. The Governor
told him, that so long as he and his people did well they
need not be afraid of any, that he was to remain
upon the location, and would not be disturbed. Upon
inquiry of Mr. Davies, he stated that the land commission
had given farms to individuals within the limits of the
location, the boundaries of which had been fixed by
proclamation, by the late Lieutenant-Governor. It
appears absolutely necessary that some steps should be
taken to secure to the natives the lands which have
been assigned to them. The grasping selfishness of the
white man will encroach upon them from year to year,
unless something is done for their protection. If the
matter is not soon settled permanently in one way or
the other, whether by appointing trustees, or in some
other way, my conviction is, that no local government,
however honest and sincere in its desire to protect the
weaker side, will be able long to resist the continual
pressure from without.
Sutiirday, June 29///. Si. Peler's Daij. — The third
anniversary of my consecration. Little did I foresee
three years ago the extent of the duties, anxieties, and
responsibilities of the episcopal office, especially in a
again. It is of no use being impatient, you cannot hurry thera. A
Kafir can always talk against time. Every mornin;: a knot of suitors
may be seen sitting on tlie ground round tlie cliiefs liouse, awaiting his
appearance.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 69
diocese so circumstanced as this. Had I known, when
summoned to take the oversight of the Church in this
land, in all its fulness the nature of the work to which
I have been called, or my own insufficiency for it, I had
not dared to consent to bear the burden. Here is a vast
colonj^, or rather a number of colonies, neglected, and
almost abandoned by the Church for the previous half
century. Within it there is a population of foreign
extraction, hostile to the British Government, and to
the Church as the representative of the British nation.
Amongst its people, European or Heathen, nearly 200
ministers, belonging to perhaps 20 different denomina-
tions, have been labouring. In every village and town
is to be found an English population, a large proportion
of whom, amidst every discouragement and difficulty,
have adhered with imshaken loyalty to the Church of
their Baptism. P'or these, at one and the same moment
a ministry has to be supplied, and churches to be erected,
and at the same time wide and effectual doors appear
to open out for the work of the conversion of the heathen.
There is a general expectation too, in various quarters,
that the Church will found Colleges or Grammar Schools
at least, for the education of the upper classes of society.
To meet all these demands, funds have been raised after
great exertions, chiefly by friends in England, partly also
from the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, about
equal to one-fifth of what the Wesleyans alone expend
in South Africa, and little more than one-fifteenth of
what is spent by all other Protestant denominations.
I am speaking now of the annual 'n\covae raised to enable
me to meet the Bills of the Clergy, who dravv upon me
for their income. The absolute necessity of providing
at once a ministry for our people, the diflBculty of devis-
ing a satisfactory scheme for raising their contributions
towards it, the uncertainty of my funds being found
equal to the demands upon them, all these have, in a
mere financial point of view, been a source of much
7D BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
anxiety. Tlien the jealous spirit of those who are not
of us, and who are determined to interfere with us, u hose
only desire and endeavour it is to live in peace and hive
with all who are round about us, has been productive of
much pain and distress. The political condition of the
colony, too, which has led to a violence of temper and
action with which the Church could have no sympathy,
has added to our trouble. But, blessed be God, amidst
all our infirmities His work has prospered : — churches
are being everywhere erected — clergy have been supplied,
though, alas! there are several places still destitute,
v\here the people are most anxious for clergymen, but
for which I am able to make no provision. And now
there seems so plain and solemn a call upon the Church
to enter heartily upon the work of the conversion of the
heathen to the faith, that we may no longer refrain with-
out sin, and fear of judgment. Oh, may God, of His
great goodness, raise up duly qualified men, and provide
the requisite means'! May He bless the work of His
Church in this land. May He give wisdom, and faithful-
ness, and zeal, and patience, and perseverance, and love
to His ministering servants, and may He give to His
people, here and everywhere, a spirit of humility, and
faith, and holiness, and zeal for the honour and glory of
His great name!
Sundaij, 30///. — Preached both morning and afternoon.
At the Communion there were ;;5 present. In the
afternoon I touched upon such points as I thought i^
important to bring under the notice of the Church before
leaving this part of the diocese, to wliich I cannot hope
to return for some time to come. The chief subjects
upon which I spoke were our responsibilities as a Church,
and as individual members of Christ, towards the heathen
amidst whom we dwell; and the conduct of the Church
under trials, arising from the bitter and unprovoked
assaults of its enemies.
Julj \st. — I have been much employed since ray
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 71
return from the Bay in carrying on a correspondence
with Government respecting ecclesiastical matters ; and
in maturing a scheme for a Mission work among the
1 15,000 heathen in the district of Natal. As this scheme
may come to nothing either from want of co-operation
upon the part of Government, or inability on my part to
raise the funds, or procure the men needed for carrying
it out, I put it on record here, that it may serve to show
at least what was attempted to be done.
Proposals for the formation of certain Institutions for the
benefit of the heathen population in the district of Natal.
It is understood that ten locations are being formed for
the exclusive use of the coloured race. Each location
to contain within it on an average not less than 10,000
souls. It is proposed that in each of these locations at
least one Institution should be founded to embrace the
following objects : —
1. The conversion of the heathen to the faith of
Christ.
2. The education of the young.
3. The formation of industrial habits.
4. The relief of the sick and afflicted.
That with a view to this there be included within the
Institution a Day-school, Boarding-school, Home for
Orphans, and the germ of an Hospital.
That a clergyman be at the head of each Institution,
and that he be aided in the industrial and educational
part of the work by teachers selected for that purpose.
That all the pupils who resort to the Institution be
fully instructed in the Christian religion.
That in addition to the ordinary instruction given in
elementary schools in England, the male pupils be
practically taught gardening, farming, and certain
mechanical arts; the female pupils, sewing, cooking,
washing, &c., the whole of the household work being
performed by them.
72 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
That the members of the Institution (who shall, if
possible, have some acquaintance with medicine) under-
take the charge of the patients, who shall in cases of
necessity be visited by the medical practitioner of the
district, appointed and paid by Government for that
purpose.
That sufTicient land be granted to enable each Institu-
tion to exhibit a model farm and garden in operation,
and to Ecrow sufficient grain, vegetables, &c. for its own
consumption.
That Government guarantee in aid of each Institution
as it becomes established, the sum of 300/. a-yeaf. This
orant to be for five years certain, but liable to be reviewed
at that period. That the Bishop endeavour to obtain
a free passage from England in some of the emigrant
ships for the clergymen, a\ ith their assistants and families,
but that, should he be unable to do this, the Govern-
ment pay for the same.
That, inasmuch as it appears to be doubtful whether
it would be desirable that a shop be attached to the
Institution, it remain with the Visitor hereafter to decide
in each particular case.
That the accounts of each Institution, so long as it
continues to receive assistance from Government, be
open to its inspection; and, if required, an annual
account of receipts and expenditure be transmitted to
Government.
That the Bishop of the Diocese be, ex officio, Visitor
of the Institutions.
The plan here sketched out is further developed in
the following letters addressed to the Lieutenant
Governor : —
p. Marifzburg, June 17, 1850.
Sir, — I beg to submit for your Honour's consideration
the enclosed scheme for the improvement of the heathen
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 73
popvilation of this land. It is unnecessarj^, I feel assured,
for me to discuss the duty or the necessity of the Govern-
ment's adopting some measures for their benefit. The
obligation has been recognised both here and at home ;
and has been pressed by Earl Grey upon the attention
of the local Government. It is, I apprehend, felt by
every one, that if the coloured race in the dependency of
Natal, already amounting, as I am informed, to 115,000,
and still increasing in numbers, is to be saved first from
contamination, and ultimately from annihilation, through
its intercourse with the white race now pouring itself
into the country in large masses, as has unhappily too
often been the case, immediate steps must be taken to
educate it in the fullest and highest sense of the word.
The education that I propose is one that embraces the
physical, as well as the mental and moral improvement
of the people. I desire to see them taught an industrial
system, in combination with the ordinary instruction
usually given in elementary schools. Above all do I
trust, that at least the opportunity maybe afforded them
of embracing the Christian faith, under the teaching of
zealous pastors. With a view to this I have proposed,
that in each of the locations about to be formed an
Institution should be founded similar in many respects
to those adopted by the Moravians in other countries,
which, under the superintendence of a clergyman, should
combine with religious teaching an extended system of
secular and industrial education ; and at the same time
afford a home where those who are suffering from sick-
ness or disease should both be nursed, and receive the
benefit of such medical treatment as the Institution
might be able to afford. The scheme also embraces
the instruction of a limited number of children of both
sexes as boarders in the Institution, in the hope that
there may thereby be gradually raised up a body of
teachers, who both by example and direct instruction
may exercise a beneficial influence over others. The
74 BISHOP OF CATETOWN S
chief obstacle in carrying out the plan that I have pro-
iioscd, would arise from the difficulty of raising sufficient
funds for maintaining it. As it appears, however, that
Earl Grey has given instructions that the hut-tax imposed
upon the heathen, already amounting to 8,000/. a-
year, and expected to increase, should be expended
for the immediate benefit of those from whom it is
raised, I apprehend that there is no way in which a
portion of it could be more appropriately and beneficially
emploj^ed than in the formation and maintenance of such
Institutions as I have proposed. I have, therefore,
suggested that 300/. a-year should be set apart for each
Institution. Should your Honour see fit to approve of
this, and it should receive the sanction of His Excellency
and Earl Grey, I should be prepared to attempt the
formationof such Institutions, upon receiving a guarantee
that they would meet with the support of Govei-nment
for a limited period. The Institutions to be under the
sole control of the Bishop of the Diocese, and those
whom he may appoint under him. This would involve
me in considerable pecuniary responsibilities, as the
expense of founding and maintaining the proposed
establishments would undoubtedly be great. I would,
however, cheerfully undertake this ; and should be pre-
pared, within a Cew months after my return to Capetown,
luiless delayed by the contemplated alterations in the
political institutions of the coimtry, to proceed to
England, expressly for the purpose of raising the neces-
sary funds, and selecting the agents for carrying on the
work. I need not, I feel assured, impress upon your
Honour's observation, that the very interesting people
whom the providence of God has so remarkably brought
under British rule and protection, is apparently ripe
for the introduction of such a system as I have proposed,
that they are looking to us as their guides and instructors,
and would readily submit to our teaching. Nor need
I do more than just remark, th.at the system and con-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 75
stitution of the Church are singularly adapted to their
existing notions of law and government ; and that the
character of its teaching must ever be such as to make
them loyal and obedient subjects of the British Crown,
— a subject well worthy of the attention of Government,
considering thecounter-influences which can scarce fail to
be at work, in a country so peculiarly situated as this is.
I have only, in conclusion, to add, that I should be glad
that the scheme which I now propose should, if your
Honour see fit to approve of it, be submiUed, before any
actual steps are taken, to the diplomatic agent, Mr.
Shepstone, who is regarded by the whole native popula-
tion as their paramount chief, and than whom no man
is more competent to give an opinion on the subject.
I have the honour to be,
Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
R. Capetown.
The following private letter accompanied the fore-
going public and official one : —
P. Maritzburg, June 19, 1S50.
Dear Sir, — I have, during my visits with you to the
several locations for the natives on the coast, been en-
deavouring to mature a scheme, which, while it should
benefit the coloured race of this land, both in a
temporal and spiritual way, should aid the Government
in the difficult duties which will devolve upon it under
the peculiar and rapidly changing circumstances of the
country. We all see that the heathen who are round
about us are in a transition state, — that they are being
trained for good or for evil by the white man from day
to day. Already has a great change taken place in
many of them, and this will be the case in an increased
degree, as the tide of immigration, now setting in so
strongly, extends over the land. Ere long the power
76 BISHOP OF Capetown's
of the chief, upon Avhich the good government of the
people at present mainly depends, will melt away. It
is already in certain instances much diminished. What
moral influence have we at work to supply the place
of the fading power of the chiefs, Avhich has hitherto
been relied upon for restraining this people? Unhap-
pily there is but little. A few foreign missionaries,
owning no allegiance to the Britisli Government, and
opposed upon principle to our institutions, cannot,
however good and zealous they may be, meet the
necessities of the case ; and yet, with the exception of
two or three Wesleyans, no other agency is at work for
the benefit of this very interesting people, whom we
have taken under our charge. After visiting most of
the Mission stations in the colony, and conversing with
those who take the deepest interest in the matter, I am
satisfied that Institutions similar to those which I have
proposed to found, are most suited to the existing
wants of the natives, and the best calculated to
transform them gradually into a religious, loyal, and
industrious people. Should your Honour agree with me,
and think my plan feasible, I shall very readily enter
into it, and labour to bring it into effectual operation.
If I could see that there was a prospect of my being
able to carry it out without any assistance from
Government, I would, for many reasons, prefer doing
so. But in the present weak state of the Church
throughout the whole Diocese, requiring as it does,
in all its parts, liberal aid from the mother Church, I
see no prospect of my being able to bear the whole
expense of the undertaking. I propose, therefore, that
the Government should help forwai'd the work, out of
the fund collected through the hut-tax ; and I have the
less scruple in doing this, as I understand that it is in
accordance with Lord Grey's views that the amount
raised should be spent for the immediate benefit of the
tax-payer; and I can conceive of no way in which it
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 77
could be appropriated more advantageously to liim
than by that Avhich I have suggested. Roads and
bridges, and other material improvements, would at
present be of little benefit to the Kafir who lives
amongst his mountains and valleys, and always travels
on foot. I have endeavoured to make some calculation
as to the probable expense of each Institution, and I
have come to the conclusion that the buildings, including
accommodation for 50 pupils, — a hospital or infirmary,
— a residence for several families of teachers — school —
chapel, &c., could not when completed cost less than
1,000/. : they would probably cost much more. To
this must be added the expense of stock for the farm, —
wagon, implements, &c. The annual cost, were the
establishment complete, and the Institution full, would
not, I think, be less at first than 600/. a-year. Ultimately
it might perhaps be made very nearly to pay its own
. expenses. Missionaries at present pay 5s. a-raonth to
each pupil, and they reckon the cost of each at 5s. a-
month. Girls are rather more expensive, as the parent
takes the wages, and leaves the Missionary to clothe
them.' 50 pupils at this rate would cost 300/. a-year.
I reckon this item at 250/. To this I add 50/. a-year
as the probable expense of a hospital or infirmary, —
50/. a-year for repairs and incidental expenses, — and
250/. a-year for the maintenance of the officers of the
Institution and their families. These woiild probably
be four ; a principal, schoolmaster, mechanic, and
agriculturist. The whole expense to Government
would be little more than the cost of a single school
and schoolmaster in each location. There would be
no shadow of a ground of complaint upon the part of
other bodies of Christians that fhei}' money was applied
for the promotion of a Church Avork. The money is
drawn exclusively from the heathen, and is to be ex-
(1) I liave since found that this is not the case, at least in one
instance.
78 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
pcnded exclusively for the heathen, in such way as
Government shall deem most conducive to their welfare.
I should have entered more fully into the scheme, had
I not felt that circumstances aud experience might lead
to a considcKible modification of it. As the various
Institutions can only be slowly and gradually formed,
both on account of the difficulty of obtaining- the
requisite funds and suitable agents for carrying on the
work, there will be ample opportunity for any al-
terations or improvements in the details. I have only
to add, that the working out of the plan, if I engage in
it, must be left altogether to myself. If I am in any
way to be responsible for its success, I must have the
entire control of it. Of course, however, I shall be
happy at any time to furnish information respecting
the various Institutions, and I should desire that their
accounts should be inspected from time to time.
I am, dear Sir, very truly yours,
R. Capetown.
This scheme, the Lieutenant-Governor informed me,
he highly approved of ; but saw difficulties in the way of
its entire adoption. These difficulties related chiefly to
the divided religious condition of the colony. What
he has undertaken to do, when laying my proposal
before Earl Grey, is " to suggest the question whether
an arrangement might be made by which, upon certain
terms, the secular instruction of these people might be
committed to the See." Should this be decided upon,
it would meet my views, and enable me, I trust, to
carry out my plan. The State would then supply
the means for their secular, — the Church for their
religious education.
July \st. — My last day at Maritzburg. I leave this
colony after a little more than six weeks' residence in
it, with a mind full of hopes and fears for the future.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 79
One most important question is that of the coloured
population. It is essential for the sake of the whole
colony, white as well as black, that well-considered
and well-digested plans should be adopted for the
moral, religious, and social improvement of the natives;
and should the present time be allowed to slip
by, there will be no possibility of redeeming it.
Another source of anxiety is the religious condition
of the immigrants now pouring in in large masses.
New villages are springing up in every direction, and
yet I dare not invite clergy out to take the spiritual
charge of them. I have no funds to fall back upon — ■
nothing upon which I can depend for the maintenance
of a ministry for a few years to come, until the people
shall be in a condition to build their own churches and
support their own pastors. May God in His mercy
provide a remedy. " Thy kingdom come."
Tuesday, July 2d, 1850.— This day I left Pieter Maritz-
burg, on my way to Graham's Town, through the
Southern parts of this colony — Faku's country, — and
British KafFraria. My first resting-place is to be King
William's Town, distant about 450 miles. I allow
myself till the 20th of the month for the performance
of the journey, but think it very probable that I may
be much longer, as no vehicle drawn by horses has
ever been through the country before, and the mountains
are pronounced to be almost impassable. Indeed, Mr.
Harding, the Crown Prosecutor, who has just returned
with three ox-wagons from Faku's country, persists iu
maintaining that I shall never reach King William's
Town in my cart. However, there is no help for it,
therefore I must make the best of it. Mr. Shepstone,
who is unable himself to accompany me as he wished,
has arranged, with the Governor's consent, for his
brother to do so, until I fall in with Mr. Fynn, who has
engaged to meet me on the banks of the Umzumkulu
on Thursday, his business compelling him to go round
80 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
by the Bay. This will secure me civility and assistance
from all the Kafirs, and I shall never be without one
who can speak the language of the country. I started
after breakfast. The Governor, the Recorder, Mr.
Shepstone, Dr. Stanger, and several other gentlemen rode
out some distance with me. We took luncheon at an
intelligent Dutch farmer's, (Mr. Zederberg from the
Cape,) who had sent me an invitation. I slept at Mr.
AUison's Mission station, Indaleni, and was again
hospitably entertained. Almost the whole country is
now burnt up, and is as black as a cinder. It wears a
very gloomy appearance. We had an instance to-day
of tlie danger of buming the grass, as is now universally
done, and will continue to be, I fear, till there is
sufficient stock to eat it down. We met an English-
man with his wife in a wagon, who had just been burnt
out of his tent, and had lost everything ; amongst other
things, a little child, as he supposed, but which we
afterwards learnt had been discovered, somewhat burnt,
near some very long grass, where it had lain two whole
days and nights. I saw the poor child, which was a
very interesting one.
Wednesday.— This morning Ave were joined by our
three Kafirs who are to be our guides. One only had
his shield and assegai. They all took an unconscion-
able quantity of snuff, which they administered to
themselves with ivory spoons, usually carried in the
hair. We had a very difficult day's journey over the
mountains. Some of the descents were fearful. I won-
dered how my man was able to drive down them. I
thought several times that cart and horses would all
have rolled together down the mountain. The ascents
-were no better. At one very steep place the horses
fairly refused to go on. After several vain attempts to
"•et them up it, we parlially unloaded the cart, and I ran
before them, leading them with a rein, as they knew me
almost as well as Ludwig. The Kafirs ran behind with
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 81
Stones to stop the cart from going back at the resting
places. I never remember to have been more oppressed
by any exertion. Had the hill been a little longer, I
am sure I should have fainted ; as it was, my legs quite
gave way, and 1 nearly fell. I did not recover myself
for half an hour. I walked nearly the whole way,
thinking that I was better able to carry myself than
the horses were to draw me. We passed the night in
a valley half way up a mountain. In the morning we
discovered that the horses had strayed. We did not find
them till past eight o'clock. We traced their spoor for
three miles up the mountain. Fortunately there were
some sandy spots which showed distinctly that they
were before us ; otherwise we might have been looking
for them all day, for we should hardly have supposed
that they had gone so far. Observing some marks of a
human foot, we had, just before finding them, almost
come to the conclusion that some Kafir or Bushman
had stolen them. This threw us out for the whole day,
and we were not able to reach the Urazumkulu this
evening as we had intended. Some part of the country
through which we have passed is fine ; there is still,
however, a deficiency of wood, and one sees nothing but
mountains with narrow valleys separating them. There
may be plains in Natal, but I have not seen them ; nor
do I know of any country in the world which is so
mountainous, though the mountains are not very high.
We outspanned for the night by the banks of a little
stream ; The Kafirs in the neighbourhood brought us
sticks for our fire, new milk, and a few melies, which
are very scarce, for our horses. They brought us, also,
a calf as an offering or tribute, which it is customary to
bring to a great chief (which Mr. Shepstone is con-
sidered to be) as he passes through the country on a
journey. After we had done our supper, I gave them
some of our hard biscuits, which they had never seen
before, and did not know what to make of; also some
G
82 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
sugar, which they pronounced very good, and said it
was honey; I then gave them some tea, made very sweet,
which they thought best of all. We supposed they
would not know the value of money, and Mr. Shepstone
told them he would give them some beads for their
melies when they next came to town. I thought,
however, I would try them with money, and gave them
half-a-crown, telling them it would pay one-third of next
year's hut-tax. One of them at once knew w hat it was,
and they seemed to rejoice in their good luck. They
left us apparently very happy. These people all belong
to Dushani, who formerly was a great chief, but has
been reduced by his incessant wars with Chaka, Faku, S:c.
The people whom we met were all quite naked, which
is not the case with any other Kafirs that I have seen.
They were all, even lads of twelve or thirteen, circum-
cised. Mr. Shepstone says that they eat their meat raw,
and are very ^a arlike. Many of them paint their faces.
Friday, 5th. — We could hardly get away this morning
from the Kafirs, who brought us an abundance of melies
on their heads, in baskets. Our kind treatment of them
last night seems to have encouraged others to come
and take their chance. Those who had had some sugar
last night begged for a little for those who had not.
We have had a most disastrous day's journey, and yet
have much cause for thankfulness. We ascended the
mountain which overhangs the Umzumkulu well
enough : but in our descent we came to some very
broken ground, but yet not worse than much that we
have passed safely over. Just, however, as I was offer-
ing up thanksgiving for escape from danger, I saw my
cart roll over. In an instant it was turned completely
upon its head, quite crushing the tent, and the wheelers
were upon their backs, with their feet in the air.
Ludwig was invisible, being under the cart. We extri-
cated him with some difficulty, and found that by God's
great mercy he was not in the least hurt : — he had not
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 83
even a bruise. In a short time we managed to release
the horses, and then with the assistance of some Kafirs
turned the cart over. We found it considerably damaged,
but Ludwig, who is a most invaluable and indefatigable
man, bound it together with " riems." We then packed
some of our goods on the horses' backs, and carried the
rest ourselves with the aid of the Kafirs, having pre-
viously sent the empty cart a considerable distance in
adv.ance, the ground being still very rough. The
country here is thickly inhabited by Kafirs, who were
not always civil. One chief man of a kraal, on being
asked for some milk, said he would get some if we
would pay for it. The same man refused to send a
messenger to his chief Dushani to tell him of our
arrival. Upon Mr. Shepstone, however, threatening
him, he found a man. After leaving this place we had
still a very difficult country to travel over. It Avas a
plain intersected by a great number of deep ravines.
There was no road, not even a track or path to guide
us. I was amazed that we got safe through our dif-
ficulties ; we broke our harness in several places in
doing so ; but arrived at the Umzumkulu before sunset.
This is a fine broad river, and the country about it may
be called beautiful, though there is a great sameness in
all the mountainous parts of Natal. In coming out of
the drift our horses stuck fast, being unable to drag the
cart out. After taking the luggage off, we managed to
get safe to land, and outspanned just on the bank of
the river where I had agreed to meet Mr. Fynn, who,
however,did not make his appearance. Some of the grass
about us was at least eight feet high ; the horses were
quite lost in it. I feel thankful to Almighty God that
the accident which has befallen us this day has not been
attended with more mischief Both man and horses
might easily have been killed. This loss of my cart,
however, seems to me like the loss of a home. I read
in it, wrote in it, slept in it, in fact, lived in it, — for it
S4 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
tas been my chief home for some months. Now I am
without shelter, but, thank God, it is not a season of
the year when we may expect mucli rain. It is sinc^ular
that the two worst accidents which I have had in all my
South African travels, should have happened in coming
into, and going out of. Natal. My exit was not much more
dignified than my entrance, for I drove on foot four of
my horses for a considerable distance, and had a knap-
sack on my back, and two other packages in my hands.
Poor Ludwig insisted upon my occupying at night bis
bed under the cart, though I was loth to rob him of his
comfortable berth. I reckon the actual distance from
Maritzburg to the Umzumkulu to be eighty miles. I have
walked nearly the whole of this, and shall probably
have to walk most of the way to King William's Town,
as my cart, in consequence of the accident, is quite
filled up with luggage.
SaUirday. — After bathing this morning again in the
Umzumkulu, as I did after sunset last night, I started
on foot with a Kafir guide, but waited at a bad drift
for the cart. When it came up, Ludwig informed me
that he had, at starting, had another tipset precisely
similar to that of yesterday. He was again under the
cart, and both he and the horses once more, by God's
great mercy, escaped without injury. The only addi-
tional damage to the cart was a considerable crack in
the pole, which would undoubtedly have broken, had it
not been for the iron plate ^vhich was under it. In the
early part of the day we had some very difficult drifts.
I was quite glad to find myself ascending a mountain
again. Before starting, I dreaded the ascents and
descents of the mountains more than anything; but
since I have been out, I have learnt that there is more
danger in a plain perpetually intersected by ravines.
We arrived at the Ibesi river just as it grew dark. It
was well that we were enabled to reach it, for the whole
country for the last fifteen miles was burnt up, and not
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 85
a blade of grass was to be seen. The day being windy,
the ashes were blown in clouds across our path, which
rendered travelling very disagreeable. The atmosphere
from this and other causes, such as burning the grass,
&c., has been so hazy for the last few days, that I have
scarcely been able to see anything of the country. In
the course of the day, a messenger from Mr. P'ynn over-
took us, to say that he had been detained by illness, and
the knocking up of his horses, and that he would meet us
to-night at a place where two roads met. We, however,
saw nothing of him. The greater part of the country
through which we have passed to-day is uninhabited.
It appears to be at least equal in fertility to any part of
the Natal District. The neighbourhood of the Umzum-
kulu seems admirably adapted for farms.
Sunday, July 7th.— After passing a tolerable night
under the cart with Mr. Shepstone for a companion,
there being just room for two, I took my usual bathe
in the Ibesi, but did not like to venture very far for
fear of crocodiles, which, for aught I know, were lurking
amidst the reeds. After breakfast I endeavoured to
give some religious instruction to our three Kafirs,
Mr. Shepstone kindly interpreting. I spent a most
interesting hour with them. They had heard some-
thing of the Christian religion, having been formerly in
the neighbourhood of a Missionary. They said they
thought at first very lightly of Christianity, but that
they began to think there must be something very
great in it. They listened with much attention and
apparent interest while I explained to them the Being
and Nature of the true God, and told them that He was
their Maker and Preserver. They said that in their
ignorant state they had some sort of idea of a Great
Preserver, different from and above their gods, who had
been their ancestors. I told them God had given us
certain commandments, would they like to hear them ?
They said, Yes. I then went through several of them.
86 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
This led me to speak of the nature of sin, and the
punishment of it ; of a Redeemer, of repentance, and of
I'aith. They appeared very much struck with God's
attributes of love and mere}', so difi'erent from anything
they knew of or had experienced from men. After
speaking to them about praying to God, and asking
them if they understood me, they said, " Yes, it was like
going to their chief and asking him to forgive them any
fault." They expressed astonishment at being told
that God forgave those who Avere sorry for sin, and left
off sinning. Very few chiefs ever did this. I spoke to
them of the torments of hell, and the happiness of
heaven. While speaking upon this latter subject, I asked
them if they were happy, or ever had been so ; they
said, " No ; how should they?" I thought my endeavour
to explain to them the blessedness of the saved, some-
what affected them. When I asked them, if they
would like me to send them a teacher to instruct them
about God, they said they Avould wish it very much.
Would they listen to what he told them? They would,
and would tell their friends and children what I had told
them. Would they give oxen and melies to feed a
teacher from God? To this they did not like to pledge
themselves ; but they said they thought their chief
would. I told them, I should like much to send them
a man of God ; but he would have to come from a great
w ay beyond the sea, and he would be poor ; and if one
came amongst them, they must do what tliey could for
him. They promised that from this time they would pray
to God and try to keep His commandments. I told them
that, if they did this with all their hearts, God would
give them more light and knowledge. Upon telling them
that this was the holy day of Christians, and that
though we prayed to God every day, yet this was our
chief day of prayer, and that they must be very quiet
while we prayed; they doubled themselves up close
beside us, and put their carosses over their faces while
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 87
I offered the prayers of the Church. In this land of
darkness and the shadow of death, cold indeed must he
be, who prays not fervently and frequently, " Thy king-
dom come."
my God, raise up, I pray Thee, faithful pastors who
may teach these lost ones the way of life. Stir up the
hearts of many within Thy Church, to offer of their
substance for the establishment and maintenance of a
Mission-work in this diocese; and bless the means
which Thy poor weak servant shall adopt for the con-
version to the faith of multitudes in this land, who
neither know Thee nor serve Thee.
1 feel more and more the importance of going home
next year, if spared so long, and if the affairs of the
Diocese will admit of it, to awaken the conscience of the
Church at home, with reference to the myriads of im-
mortal souls in this land, for whom, as yet, little or
nothing has been done. In the afternoon two more
guides, who knew the country better than those who
were with us, came up with us. They brought a strong
calf from their chief Dushani as a present. They made,
after their arrival, some feeble efforts to catch it, that
they might kill it for supper; but we saw plainly that
they wished to keep it, knowing full well that if we did
not eat it, it would become their property. Though our
commissariat is getting low, in consequence of our being
obliged to feed so many mouths, I was quite willing
that the poor beast's life should be spared. The after-
noon I spent in writing a sermon by the river-side.
We then had evening prayer ; and after dark another
long conversation with the new comers. I was much
pleased with one of them. He spoke of the peace and
quiet and protection they enjoyed under the British
Government, so different from the former state of things
under Chaka, who had devastated the whole country,
and so destroyed the various tribes, that the one to
which these Kafirs belonged, a very small one, was
88 BISHOP OF Capetown's
made up of the remnants of several. He spoke also
with great gratitude of Mr. Fynn, who, he said, had
saved tlie lives of many of them, and to whom they
and many other small tribes looked up as their chief.
I like these savages, and could be well content to settle
down amongst them, and endeavour to teach them the
things of God.
Monday, 8th. — We had a blustering night, and but
little sleep. It blew almost a hurricane, so that more
than once I thought the cart would have gone over.
Our curtains were but little protection to us. I felt for
my poor Kafirs who were lying out in the long grass
almost naked. We were just in-spanning in the morn-
ing, and I had settled with Mr. Shepstone that he
should not go on further with us, as the country we were
about to travel over was quite uninhabited, when some
one said, that he heard voices shouting. In a short
time two Kafirs came up, who told us that Mr. Fynn
had slept near us, and had sent them to inquire whether
we were at the drift. Thus at the very moment when
we were about to lose our guide and to travel through
an unknown and desolate country, without understand-
ing one word of the language of those whom we were
likely to meet, he whom we had been looking for so
long in vain, appeared. I was very thankful for God's
providential care of us. Shortly after, Mr. Fynn him-
self came up, and we started again on our journey.
The whole country was burnt up as far as we could
see, and we were thankful to find a patch of withered
grass and some muddy water for our cattle. The road
was much better than any we have yet passed over since
we left Maritzburg,but the country looked very dreary,
though it clearly is rich and fertile. The moles and
worms had so turned up the soil since the fire had
passed over it, that it was precisely like ploughed land.
There was not an inhabitant or a hut to be seen. Mr.
Fynn thinks there are about 100 miles square un-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 89
inhabited. This is part of the country depopulated by
Chaka ; and it is a portion of the district to which Faku
has ceded his right for 100 head of cattle. I have had
this day a great deal of interesting conversation with
Mr. Fynn, who has been twenty-seven years in the
country, and who is now British Resident in these parts.
He is convinced, as I think every one must be, that in
the order of Providence, British rule will probably ere
long extend from Graham's Town to near Delagoa Bay.
We took up our quarters for the night near some
clumps of trees, around which some small remains of
unburnt grass were to be found, affording some hope of
a scanty meal for our poor jaded horses. I felt it quite
a luxury to have the enclosure under my cart to myself
again, for Mr. Fynn would not share it with me ; but I
begin to feel there is some truth in the saying, that if
you wish to sleep well on the ground you must dig two
holes, one for your shoulder, and one for your hip.
My bones are getting sore with the hardness of my
couch ; but as I walk nearly the whole time from sun-
rise to sunset, I am generally sufficiently tired to sleep
well at night. In the morning we found our horses had
strayed to a great distance, in a vain search for food ;
I was out for two hours looking for them. We had a
difficult day's journey over a succession of mountains
and valleys. Our late disasters have made us use every
endeavour to prevent a repetition of them. Conse-
quently, wherever the country is uneven, we hold the
cart down with a riem. Down steep descents we do the
same. This is very fatiguing, as it requires to be done
constantly, but I feel it a duty to do it, as any neglect
would again endanger the life of my driver. We have
had to-day constantly to put our shoulders to the wheel
to get our cart out of its difficulties, for some of the
drifts are so muddy and steep that the horses cannot
drag it out of them. One of Mr. Fynn'a horses quite
knocked up, and he was obliged to leave it on the road.
90 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
The whole country is still burnt up in every direction
as far as we can see. We Ibnnd, however, here and
there a patch which afforded a scanty meal for our
horses. The only tine feature in the country that I have
seen for the last day or two is a high range of moun-
tains which we kept all day on our right. Beneath it
was some forest scenery. I walked nearly every step
of the way to-day, and can generally keep up with the
cart, gaining in the ascents what I lose in the descents,
or on level ground, of which latter, however, it is very
rarely that we find a few hundred yards. I am surprised
to find that Mr. Fynn knows nothing of the country,
nor does his Kafir guide ; our only help in finding our
way has been what we suppose to be the track of Mr.
Harding's wagons, when he came, a few weeks since, this
way to negotiate with Faku for the surrender of his
land. I know that he took a very bad road in his way
down ; and I have every reason to fear that we are
following in his steps. After outspanning for the night,
I had another very pleasant evening's conversation with
"Mr. Fynn about Kafir habits, customs, manners, &c.
He mentioned several circumstances showing a simi-
larity between their customs and those of the Jews.
Circumcision of course was one ; the marrying of a
deceased brother's widow for the express purpose of
raising up children to his brother, was another. The
sprinkling of the door-posts of their huts on certain
occasions, sacrifice, purification after touching a dead
body, were amongst the number. It was also their habit
to shave their heads in seasons of mourning, — no
Jewish custom indeed, but practised by Job and others.
The country we have passed through to-day is wholly
uninhabited, we saw no traces of human beings or of
human dwellings. The whole of the coast, or nearly
the whole, is inhabited, and Mr. Fynn informs me that
it is a much more interesting country, being close by
the sea, and abounding in wood. At one time I had
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 91
some thoughts of going that way, bixt I believe I should
have been delayed several days while a road was being
cut out for me through the bush. We lose, however, a
good deal of time here in digging a way for our cart
through drifts. Ludwig quite agreed with me to-day
that if it please God to bring us safe through this
journey we will not attempt it again. I had no concep-
tion of the extent of the difficulties of the road ; but if
I had, I still must have made the attempt, or left
important work undone. We found a small piece of
unburnt grass for our poor horses at night.
Wednesday, \Otli. — Another most anxious, fatiguing,
wearisome day's journey over a country still imin-
habited and burnt up. Our road has, I think, been
more difficult than ever, and we consider ourselves as
lost amongst the mountains. The horses are getting
sensibly weaker from want of food, and refused several
hills. The only way to get them through a difficulty is
for me to walk before them and lead them. 1 pet them a
good deal, and they will follow me almost anywhere.
Nearly the whole of this day I have been thus employed,
or in holding down the cart with a riem on ground
where it was likely to be upset, or holding it back down
steep descents. I am consequently getting as much
out of condition as my horses. Towards evening we
arrived opposite the highest mountain we have yet
ascended. I pronounced it perfect insanity to attempt
the ascent. After resting our horses a little while,
however, we determined to try if we could get up it, as
we saw there was no alternative. I led the way in my
shirt sleeves (for I have discarded my coat, — which is
in no better condition than its owner, — the days being
very warm though the nights are cold) ; Ludwig drove,
Mr. Fynn held down the cart, and the Kafir carried a
great stone on his shoulder to put under the wheel.
After great efforts, and frequent restings, we managed
to climb the ascent, which was more than I expected.
92 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
and outspanned for the night on the top of the mountain,
close by a forest of yellow wood, where there was a
narrow frinjre of grass which had escaped burning.
We determined to send off the Kafir by daybreak to
find out a kraal which we believed could not be far
distant, and to procure, if possible, some mclies for our
half-starved horses. It was in this neighbourhood, Mr.
Fynn tells me, that Captain Gardiner, some few years
since, was reduced to live upon sugar for some days, and it
was not very far from this that Mr. Fynn himself was
for five days enclosed between two rivers with nothing
to eat but some sambok — strips of the sea-cow, or hip-
popotamus hide. Thank God we are still provided with
food, though our stock is getting low. Had it not been
for the forethought of who put into my cart some
tins of meat and soup, and a cheese, we should before
this have been in want. I understood Mr. Fynn to say,
before we left Maritzbiirg, that I was to make no pro-
•^ision for the way beyond the Umzumkulu, but to leave
all to him ; that we should have an ox every night, &c.
I laid in, however, a stock of 40 lbs. of biscuit, which
happily has been much burnt, and has therefore lasted
us longer than it would have done had it been more
palatable ; and 30 lbs. of salt beef. It is well that I did
this, for I know not what we should have done without it,
as I have had to feed Kafirs every night. The patience,
endurance, contentment, and thankfulness for kindness
on the part of these poor people is pleasing. I always
insist upon our all — in the circumstances in which we
are — sharing alike. Our Kafir said this evening that it
was very fortunate that he was travelling with white
men, as they lent him a covering at night. Poor fellow,
he would otherwise be out night after night in frost and
wind, quite naked. We cannot be too thankful that
amidst all our difficulties the weather has been so fine
— we could hardly have chosen any more to our wishes.
Had our journey taken place during the rains of
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 93
summer, we certainly should not have been able to
get through the country. The only disadvantage of
this season, — and it is a very great one, — is the loss of
grass. In the spring, I can quite imagine this country
looking very beautiful, for although the scenery is not
generally bold, there is everywhere a rich clothing of
grass, a great abiandance of rivers and streams, and a
fair proportion of forest. I fear the difficulty of making
roads over so very mountainous a district will always
impose obstacles in the way of its advancement. Other-
wise it would be a very tempting field for the English
emigrant. We passed to-day a heap of stones on the
top of one of the mountains. Mr. Fynn told me that it
is customary for every traveller to add one to the heap,
that it may have a favourable influence on his journey,
and enable him to arrive at some kraal while the pot
is yet boiling. The women, with a similar view, are in
the habit cf tying the grass in knots.
Thursday, 1 1 tJi. — From the top of our mountain,
which is the highest ground we have yet passed over,
we could see the country for many miles round. Every-
where its features were the same, and everywhere it
was burnt up and black. On retiring into a w ood, near
to which we out-spanned for breakfast, (which we
seldom get much before two o'clock,) to perform my
ablutions, I found myself as black as a pitman just
come out of a pit. On a windy day the fine ash of the
grass penetrates through all one's clotlies. We have
made a better journey to-day, the country not being so
mountainous and rugged, and consequently our diffi-
culties not so appalling as on former days, though we
have had quite enough of them. For a mile or two we
had unburnt grass. Some of the country through
which we have passed would, under other circumstances,
appear beautiful ; but our anxieties, and the blackness
of the whole face of nature, give a gloomy tinge to
everything aroimd us. We were much disappointed
94 BISHOP OF Capetown's
at not arriving at Palmerston this evening. We out-
spanned for the night in a very bleak spot, exposed to
a cutting wind. Mr. Fynn was obliged to leave another
of his horses on the road quite knocked up. I cannot
be too thankful that mine hold out so well. One of the
wheels of my cart, however, is pronounced to. be in a
dangerous state ; we are to try to mend it to-morrow.
We have not yet met with a human being, or the
slightest vestige of human habitations. It seems strange
to travel over so fine a country, abounding in wood,
clothed with a rich grass, wonderfully well watered,
with a beautiful climate, and yet find it totally unin-
habited. Old footpaths are the only evidences of the
country having been once occupied by man. War has
left the laud without its inhabitants.
Friday, \2th. — I spent two hours this morning search-
ing for the horses, while Mr. Fynn and Ludwig
endeavoured to mend the wheel, — a fatiguing com-
mencement of my day's march. Our day's journey has
been more prosperous than we expected, though at
night we find ourselves still about twenty-five miles from
Palmerston. While out-spanning at mid-day six Kafirs
came up with baskets of melies on their heads, sent by
Mr. Fynn's Kafir. Our half-starved horses devoured
them voraciously. We had some fine mountain views
and forest scenery during the latter part of the day.
At night we finished all our provisions except four
biscuits and a little cheese, &c.
The natives, who came to us to-day, belong to a chief
called Jojo, who is inferior only to Faku in power.
Faku is the greatest chief in this part of the country.
He has about 40,000 people under him ; Jojo has about
8,000. There are several smaller chiefs with 2,000 or
3,000 people each. I understand from Mr. Fynn that
in the lands on this side of the Umzumkulu, recently
acquired from Faku by the Natal Government for 100
bead of cattle, there arc three tribes living who have a
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 95
better title to the land than either Fakii or ourselves.
These tribes ai-e the Amakholo, under the chief Kani ;
the Amangotshan, under the chief Madigezela ; and the
Amanekna, under the chief Umzaba. They are living
in their own native country. It will be a gross injustice
towards them if we take possession of their lands with-
out their consent ; but there is no doubt, I believe,
that they would gladly place themselves under the
British government, provided their lauds, which form
but a small portion of the territory in question, were
duly secured to them. If we honestly desire to protect
the natives in this part of the world, and to secure to
those who are under our dominion the possession of
their lands, I must again repeat, they should at once be
vested in trustees, or in some other manner be legally
made over to them for ever. I trust something may be
done by the government by way of recognising their
right to the lands which they occupy, for if it be left in
any way indefinite, I feel assured (and those most in-
terested in their welfare concur in the opinion) that
they will gradually be deprived of their land under one
pretence or another, to make room for the white man.
Saturday Yith. — We arrived this evening before sunset
at Palmerston, thankful to Almighty God for having
brought us thus far in safety. We were very kindly
received by Mr. and Mrs. Jenkins of the Wesleyan
Society. Our road to-day was better than any \ve had
passed over since we left Indaleni. The country was
less burnt, and the views occasionally very beautiful.
I do not think that my horses could have travelled
another day without rest. One of them showed symp-
toms of sickness. I trust a day's rest, and two or three
more of freedom from work, while oxen draw the cart
over the difficult country beyond the Umzumvoobo, may
restore them so as to enable me to reach Butterworth,
about 150 miles, by next Saturday. I have been sitting
up till late conversing with my host, and am surprised
96 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
that I do not fpcl more fatijiucd Avith my journey, for
we have travelled, I think, during the last twelve days,
not less than 250 miles, nearly the whole of which I
have walked. 1 ought to be thankful that I have been
enabled to do this, considering that for two years of my
life I could only move upon crutches. Anxiety for the
safety of my man, horses, and cart, have done more to
weary me than mere bodily fatigue. Altogether, I
think, I have lost nearly as much in condition as my
horses. Mr. Jenkins informs me that there are in the
village some Hottentots who have passed through the
Drakenberg mountains in search of cattle stolen by the
Bushmen. They describe the country as very fertile
and well watered, and the scenery as bold and magnifi-
cent. The mountain range, where they passed it, was
about 40 miles wide. The whole of the country under
the Drakenberg, from the Tambookies, who border on
British Kaffraria, to Natal, is uninhabited, and is, I un-
derstand, a very fine country. It must be between two
and three hundred miles long. I gathered from various
quarters that there is a great tendency on the part of
the whole native population to move eastward. During
Chaka's reign of terror it was just the reverse: he drove
them all westward. As an instance of the inclination
to return to the east, I may mention that Jojo has just
moved several miles in that direction, and it is under-
stood that others are prepared to follow. It is supposed
that Kreli has an intention to move, and that, if he does,
some of the chiefs from British Kaffraria will occupy
his land. The people on the coast, too, show an incli-
nation to move into the interior. Should they actually
do this, and the British government occupy the territory
which they vacate, it will at once place at our disposal
the most valuable land of the country. I have had
some conversation with Mr. Jenkins about his work.
He does not speak with much confidence of it; though
from what he said I could not gather that there was any
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 97
great room for despondency. He reckons his usual
congregation of hearers on the Lord's Day at 300 ; he
has 40 baptized, and large day and Sunday schools.
He expressed a great desire to see a Cluu-ch Mission
founded in this country. Sad, indeed, it is, that in all
these distant outposts there should be no work carried
on by the Church. How is it that those who are less
richly blessed than ourselves with spiritual gifts and
privileges, should be more abundant in labour — more
full of zeal for extending the kingdom of God? May
the Lord speedily raise up men within His Church, who
shall offer themselves for the work of the conversion of
the heathen ; and may He dispose the wealthy of our
land to offer largely and liberally, and in proportion to
their means, for the support of those who are ready to
spend and be spent for Christ.
Sunday Wth. — The services at the Mission station
began with a prayer-meeting at daybreak among the
natives, conducted entirely by themselves. About nine
o'clock the Sunday school began. This is also con-
ducted exclusively by natives. The children were very
noisy, and did not seem far advanced, though some were
reading in the New Testament. They all appeared to
take much interest in their work, and to show a great
desire to learn. At eleven o'clock there was morning
prayer. This consisted of a portion of the Liturgy
translated into Kafir, and used in all the Wesleyan
Missions, singing, and a sermon. They chaunted the Te
Deum very tolerably. As Mr. Jenkins was very anxious
that I should address the people, I spoke to them for
some time after the service, he acting as interpreter.
There were between 200 and 300 present. There was
service again in the afternoon at half-past two o'clock,
after which about ten of the Christians of the station
came to express their satisfaction at seeing me here,
and their appreciation of what I had said to them. I
had some interesting conversation with them. They
H
98 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
spoke of themselves in their heathen state as violves
and not men. They seemed to think that there was a
conviction on the minds of the heathen generally, that
the only war which the Gospel waged was a war against
sin ; that they respected Christianity, and did not sus-
pect, as they formerly did, that the teachers of religion
had some purposes of their own to serve. They ex-
pressed a hope that more teachers would come. I told
them that 1 had come through this difficult country,
expressly to see with my own eyes what its spiritual
wants were, and that I was so deeply impressed with
the need there is of more teachers, that I purposed, if
God spared me, going soon again to my own country to
fetch them. I invited them, whenever they offered the
Lord's prayer, and came to the words " Thy kingdom
come," to remember to pray for faithful pastors for their
countrymen. In the evening I oilered the prayers of the
Church and preached to Mr. Jenkins's household.
Monday \5th. — Having repaired the wheel, and spliced
the pole of my cart, and purchased some beads to traffic
with the natives (who do not know the value of money)
for food for my men and cattle, I proceeded on a horse,
which j\Ir. Jenkins had kindly lent me, to the Umzum-
voobo, ray cart being drav.n by eight oxen, lent also
by him.
I had a most beautiful ride, especially during the latter
part of it. Some of the views from the heights of the
Umzumvoobo up and down the river, and over the sea,
are magnificent. We saw them in a setting sun, which
added to the effect. The mountains which overhang the
river are of a considerable height, and their sides are
well wooded. The whole country is thickly inhabited
by Faku's people. These Kafirs are very inferior both
to those in the Natal district and in British Kaffraria.
They are more heavy, dull, and stupid. Their forms
are not so well moulded, and they appeared to me
smaller than their neighbours : they are also more dirty.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 99
I am told that the Amapondas are looked down upon
by the other tribes, and that the others would object to
marry into their tribe. They drink and smoke inces-
santly. I passed to-day a party smoking dagga and
drinking their beer, and I was told by Mr. Fynn that
they would sit up most of the night at it. Faku him-
self sets a bad example in this respect. A murder has
just taken place in this neighbourhood. The punish-
ment for murder is not heavy. If the murderer sends
an ox to the chief, the affair is considered as settled.
We arrived at Mr. Hancock's, a trader living on the
banks of the river, just after sunset. Next morning we
went down the river to its mouth (a distance of about
nine miles) in a boat rowed by Kafirs, and had a most
enjoyable day. The river opposite to Mr. Hancock's
house is about five fathoms deep, and lower down ten.
The banks are very precipitous, rising to a height of
perhaps 800 or 1,000 feet ; Mr. Hancock said, 3,000.
" The Gates," lofty mountains at the mouth of the river,
.are very fine. The banks are well wooded. We landed
for a short time in one part of the forest where Mr.
Hancock employs some sawyers. There are several
kinds of valuable wood unknown in the colony. Two
of the hardest and most useful are called by the natives
" Unizimbeti" and " Umnebelala." The latter Mr. Han-
cock considered to be ebony. This is one of the finest
rivers I have seen in South Africa. It is aboAt as
broad as the Thames at Henley, It has, like all the
other rivers on this coast, a bar at its mouth. The
depth of water on the bar, I understand, varies from
three to seventeen feet. It is nearly a mile across at
the mouth from rock to rock. We saw a great many
sea-cows (hippopotamus) swimming about. One fol-
lowed our boat a great way up the river, but, as it was
getting dark, our sportsmen did not attempt to shoot
it. As our Kafirs were either knocked up, or did not
seem inclined to pull, I took an oar in returning, and
100 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
had a very pleasant row, which reminded me of days
long past. We returned for the night to Mr. Hancock's,
who received us very kindly, though living in a very
rough way. On AVednesday morning we rode on to
Buntingville, a Wesleyan Mission station, distant about
30 miles. The whole country was most mountainous.
On climbing some of the hills, I could not but be thank-
ful that my cart was being drawn by oxen, and that my
horses were enjoying comparative rest. Indeed, I doubt
Avhether, in their weak state, they could have got on at
all. I overtook my cart at the Umgazi river, and
reached Buntingi'ille at sunset. The cart, however, did
not make its appearance till the next morning. The
country through which I passed was partially occupied.
It is this tract of land, extending to the Umtata, that
Mr. Fynn is desirous that the British government
should occupy, and he says that Faku is quite willing.
His view is, that our occupation of it might prevent
another Kafir war, this being the back country to which
the Kafirs drive their cattle for safety, previous to en-
gaging in war with us. Our occupation of it would cut
them off from this. Faku, he says, would be glad to
have us between himself and the frontier Kafirs. The
country is a very fine one, and well watered.
Buntingville station is one of the largest in the
district. There are about 600 people residing upon it.
It is tibout 17 years since it was commenced. Many of
the coloured people are beginning to build European
houses. It is now under the charge of an Assistant
Missionary or Catcchist, Mr. Wakeford, and the Mission
appears to me to be in a languishing state. He tells
me there are 75 Christians upon it. The people call
themselves Faku's followers, but they belong to a great
variety of tribes, who, from various causes, have con-
gregated in this place, and regard the Missionary as
their chief. I was sorry to see that while several
houses were being built, and had an appearance of
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 101
comfort, the Chapel, which is also the school-house,
was ill a most dilapidated state.
Thursday, I8th. — Mr. Wakeford having kindly pro-
posed to lend me horses, I determined to ride to the
JNIorley station, while my cart went by the wagon road.
I accordingly had a warm but pleasant ride of about
30 miles. The country was hilly, but appeared to me
Avell suited for farming operations. It is but partially
occupied. We passed several small rivers, besides the
Umtata, which runs through a very deep and beautiful
valley. I had my usual bathe at a sweet spot. The
Morley station is just above it, and it took me nearly
an hour to ascend a very steep hill to it from the river.
The Missionaries have not shown as much taste as the
monks of old in the selection of situations for religious
houses. Morley, indeed, stands high, and enjoys an
extensive view" over the open country; but below it
there are some beautiful spots commanding extensive
reaches of the river, and upon these the natives have
fixed their kraals. One serious objection, however,
there is to some of the finest sites, — that they are
inaccessible even to a South African wagon, which is a
machine warranted to go almost anywhere. The rank
vegetation also of the lower grounds, and the great
heat and closeness of them in the summer months,
render such situations unsuitable. Faku's land ends
at the Umtata ; the country between that river and the
Bashee belongs to the Tambookies. It is only
partially inhabited. Mr. Garner, who has, as usual,
received me very hospitably, informs me that this
whole country is very damp, and that neither oxen,
horses, nor sheep thrive in it. He has planted a cotton
field 50 acres in extent, which he expects will succeed,
The natives receive 2d. a-day for their labour. The
Mission station, which, like most of the others in this
neighbourhood, does not consist of the people of any
particular tribe, but of persons from various neigh-
102 . BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
bouring tribes, has about 100 families upon it, and
there are 100 Christians. The mixed nature of the
population on the Mission stations arises, in part at
least, from their being regarded, like the monasteries
of old, or the cities of refuge amongst the Israelites, as
sanctuaries to %vhich men may flee for safety. It is a
very common thing for the natives when accused,
justly or unjustly, to take refuge on the lands recog-
nised as belonging to the Mission. The chiefs generally
protect the Missionaries, because they desire to have
some one in their neighbourhood who can be their friend
with the British Government. They do not, however,
really like the institutions, inasmuch as they tend to
diminish their power over their people.
One or two native teachers are generally employed
on each station. These are usually not Kafirs. They
receive a payment of from 10/. to 30/. a-ycar, the
native schoolmaster from 4/. to 8/. Mr. Garner is the
only Missionary I have met with who thinks it possible
that the witch-doctors may occasionally exercise super-
natural or Satanic power. He mentioned several in-
stances in which he could not account for the knowledge
they seemed to possess. One case he mentioned struck
me particularly. Some years since, when he and his
party had arrived as strangers in the Bechuana country,
they were rather jeering at a m itch-doctor, who, how-
ever, told one of his people precisely the state of his
family find circumstances in (Jraham's Town. He was
perfectly accurate in all he said, and could not, by any
possibility, have received information on the subject
from any of their party.
Friday, YjUi. — I started this morning, on a horse lent
me by Mr. Garner, for Beecham Wood, the station of
Mr. Brown, a catechist, distant sixty miles ; and I have,
thank God, been enabled to accomplish the ride without
any fatigue. I cannot be too grateful for the health and
strength which I enjoy. It requires considerable powers
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. lOS
of endurance to go through what I have done during
the last three weeks. The district through which I have
passed to-day is inhabited by Tambookies. It does not
appear to be wholly occupied, but I perceive more oxen
and goats than I have of late seen. The character of
the country has undergone a gradual change since we
left Palmerston. Its general features now are hilly
slopes. The grass is still abundant, but there are not
so many streams. We crossed the Bashee at a very bad
drift. The land in its neighbourhood, though covered
with mimosa, looks more bare than any I have seen of
late. We off-saddled at one or two kraals. All asked
for presents; but at one some women brought us skins
to sit upon. There is a slight change in the dress of
these people. The married men cease to wear the crown
which is so becoming in the Zoolu and Amaponda.
The women wear more rings on the arms, and even on
the toes, and a handkerchief lightly fastened round the
head, which would give them a pleasing appearance if
it were not always so dirty. We did not reach Mr
Brown's station till late at night. There is not much
to interest one in it. It has only been established in
this place since the war. There are but twenty-five
families on the spot, and twelve Christians. The so-
called chapel is a most ruinous, dilapidated building.
After a sleepless night, passed on a sofa, I rode on to
Butterworth, another Wesleyan station, distant about
twenty-five miles, Mr. Brown again kindly furnishing
me with horses. The country between the Bashee and
the Kei, perhaps 100 miles long and 50 broad, belongs
to Kreli, who till the close of the late war was consi-
dered paramount Chief of British Kaffraria. His coun-
try, so far as I have seen of it, has a dense population.
In no part of South Africa have I seen the kraals so
near together, or the cattle so numerous, or the grass so
closely cropped, or more land under cultivation. Could
they but be induced to build more substantial houses.
104 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
and to purclaase sheep, we miglit hope to see the end of
our border wars. 1 was glad to hear from a trader, at
whose house I called, that the demand for clothes and
other manufiictured goods is increasing.
Mr. Gladwin, the Missionary at Butterworth, received
me with the same hospitality and kindness as the rest of
his brethren. In talking with him respecting the work of
Missions in this land, he expressed the pleasure which
he felt at the prospect of our commencing a Mission, but
spoke his mind freely with reference to our past neglect
and unconcern. He said it was a disgrace and reproach
to the Church of Enngland that it had so long delayed
to enter upon the work, and that 100 more missionaries,
at the least, were required in this land. I told him that
I felt the reproach keenly, — that I was deeply conscious
of our sin, and that if God spared me for another year
in health and strength, and the circumstances of the
Diocese admitted of it, I purposed going to England to
raise the necessary means, and select the men for the
work. God grant that the Church may be awakened to
a sense of her great responsibilities towards the many
thousand heathen under British rule in this land, that
when she enters upon the work of their conversion,
she may make up by her hearty zeal and diligence in it
for past neglect and unconcern.
Sundaji, 2\st. — The services here this day were the
same as at Palmerston. That portion of the Liturgy
which has been translated into the Kafir language was
used. All the people knelt, and made the responses.
Mr. Gladwin pressed me so strongly to address the
people that I did so, through an interpreter. The con-
gresation consisted of nearly 500, for the chapel, which
is the most respectable which I have yet seen, and fitted
up with benches, was crowded to excess. There were,
perhaps, near 100 Christians. The remainder were
either catechumens, or inquirers, or such as came out of
mere curiosity. This is the second time during this
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 105
journey tbat 1 have undertaken to preach to tlie heathen.
I was thankful for the opportunity of doing so, how-
ever imperfectly ; but I was so circumstanced each time
that I could not well have avoided it. The people soon
understood that a " Great Teacher " had come amongst
them, and they would not have been easy or satisfied
had I not addressed them. The Sunday-school consisted
of about 100 children. The basis of instruction is the
Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and Commandments ; but a
Catechism is also used, translated by the missionaries.
The sight to-day has been a most interesting one.
The whole people of this land are ready, at least, to
hear the Gospel ; they are willing to attend Christian
assemblies, and schools ; to read our books, to be taught
by us. The field is white already unto the harvest, but
the labourers are few ; so far as the Church is concerned,
alas ! they are none. It is most distressing to think how
unfaithful we have been, and are, to our trust. " Thy
kingdom come."
Butterworth is, I believe, the oldest Wesleyan station
in this part of the country. It has been, I think, twenty
years in existence, and was entirely burnt down during
the last wai-. There are about 125 Christians upon it.
In the evening I held Divine Service for the few Iilnglish
living in the neighbourhood : we had a congregation of
about twenty.
Monday, 22d. — This day I started for King William's
Town in company with Mr. W. Fynn, the British
Resident, who not only has kindly offered to escort me,
but has furnished me with a saddle horse, and oxen to
take my cart over the difficult country about the Kei.
I have nothing particular to recount of our day's
journey. The drift of the river is a very difficult one.
When we arrived at it, two wagons, drawn each by
upwards of twenty oxen, had stuck fast in it, and delayed
us for some time. On the road down to the river,
which is very precipitous, we passed the ruins of two
106 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
more \vap:ons, one of uliich had broken down, and tbe
other had been upset. I passed the night half-way up
the ascent in the wagon of a trader, which he placed at
my disposal. My bed, which consisted of sacks of Kafir
corn and melies, was none of the softest. Mr. Fynn
pointed out to me, as we journeyed, the scenes of several
actions with the Kafirs during the late war, and the
graves of not a few of our officers.
Tuesday, 23d. — We are now in British Kaffraria, and
have travelled to-day through the territory of the Chief
Umhalla, to whom I have promised to send missionaries.
He is the shrewdest, and perhaps the most influential,
of the Kafir chieftains, and one of the least hopeful, I
fear, for missionary operations. But I feel that we
ought to seek the conversion of these poor frontier
savages perhaps before all others in the land. I do not
dispute the justice of our wars with them, or question
our present treatment of them ; but they have suifered
both morally and physically more than any other heathen
in the country, from their close contiguity to ourselves.
When I shall be able to commence this mission I know
not. What we chiefly need is a well-qualified, devoted
man, Avho, for the love of Christ, will give himself to
the work ; indeed, there ought to be two. The Clergy
of the Diocese have undertaken to raise 200/. a-year
for their support. May fit agents speedily be raised
up in answer to our prayers ; and may our prayers be
unceasing until the desire of our hearts be accomplished
< — " Sursum corda."
I have passed to-day over much of the country that
was the scene of the late Kafir war. I walked over the
ruins of Fort Warden and Fort Wellington, and visited
the graves of several of our brave soldiers. Nigh to the
road-side, on the floor of a trader's house, now in ruins,
are the graves of five young officers, killed on a
neighbouring mountain. They had gone out for a ride,
and ascended the mountain, the highest in the country.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. lO?
to enjoy the prospect. The Kafirs observed them, and
•waylaid them as they came down, in a narrow gorge.
Most of them were killed at once by the assegais hurled
at them from the enemy, who were in considerable
numbers, but one officer remained for some time, and
defended himself, with his back to the rock. He killed
five Kafirs before he was dispatched himself. His last
act was to tear an assegai from his own body, and hurl
it back upon the adversary. I took more interest in the
fate of these officers, because I had frequently heard one
of them. Captain Baker, spoken of most highly, and
because his brother has given 200/. towards the church
at King WiUiam's Town. I had an account of the
whole affair from Lishani, a very fine Kafir, chief of a
neighbouring kraal, who was one of the attacking party.
The trader, too, in whose wagon I slept, knew all the
particulars, as he was with the camp at the time, and
formed one of the party who went next day to recover
the bodies. There seems to be a doubt whether the
last officer killed was Captain Baker, or a Mr. Lock.
It seems most probable that it was Captain Baker. His
body was dragged to some distance, and shockingly
mutilated. We passed the night at Hangman's Bush, the
last, I trust, that I shall for some time spend in the veldt,
as we are within nineteen miles of King William's Town.
Wednesday, 24//<.— Arrived early in King William's
Town. Colonel Mackinnon, Chief Commissioner of
British Kaffraria, had kindly made preparation for my
accommodation in his house. The remainder of the day
was spent in reading several packets of letters which
had been lying here waiting for me.
Sunday, 28th. — Preached to the troops and civilians
both morning and evening in the temporary chapel used
for Divine Service. In the afternoon I held a Confirma-
tion. I am much pleased with the state of things here ;
the congregations are good, and Mr. Fleming, the
Military Chaplain, is labouring zealously amongst all
108 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
classes. The foundations of the church, which is calcu-
lated to hold 300, and for whicli about 1,500/. is already
raised, are being laid. The plan is Early English. It
will be, perhaps, the nicest and most correct little church
in the Diocese when finished, and is to be entirely of
stone, of which there is an abundance, of a good quality,
in the immediate neighbourhood.
On Monday I drove down in company with Mr.
Fleming in a mule cart to East London, the port of
British Kaffraria. Our route lay through a country in no
Avay very striking. The distance is about thirty-five
miles. We breakfasted with Captain McClean, the in-
telligent Commissioner of the T'Slambie tribes, who
resides near Fort Murray. AVe afterwards visited Mount
Coke, which, in addition to missionary work amongst
the surrounding heathen, is intended for the instruction
of a certain number of Kafir youths as teachers. There
were eight in the school, some of whom were married
men. They live in the institution, but not under the
roof of the missionary ; yet, if charactei's arc to be
formed, if men are to be educated, and not merely in-
structed, it surely is of the utmost importance that they
should live in the very presence of their teacher. The
pupils here are taught to read both in English and Kafir,
and they receive much the same sort of education that
would be given to boys in a national school in England.
I was glad to find that they had a well-educated
European teacher for tlieir instructor. The missionary
also .appeared to be an intelligent man. 'J'he buildings
of the institution, which have been erected since the
war, are of a substantial kind ; the chapel and the school
are distinct buildings, which I have nowhere else found
lo be the case. After inspecting this institution, we
proceeded on our journey, and arrived at East London
in the afternoon, having out-spanned for some time at
Fort Grey, the buildings of which are in a great state of
dilapidation. East London, situated on the mouth of
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 109
the Buffalo River, is but a very small place, and has as
few natural advantages as any place I have ever seen
claiming to be a port. I could have walked across the
river without getting wet above the knee. There is no
shelter Avhatever for vessels, it being an open roadstead ;
the shore is rugged, and the surf, though there was no
wind during my stay, was very heavy. 'I'he sole re-
deeming point is that the anchorage is said to be very
good. There has, I believe, as yet been but one wreck.
Some people are sanguine in their hope that a trade will
be opened through this place with Bui-ghersdorp, and
the Sovereignty. The land carriage certainly would all
be in favour of this, as the distance is much less than by
Algoa Bay. Wagons travel between King William's Town
and Burghersdorp in a week, and the road is good.
On the morning after my arrival I held a Confirmation
in a small store, used by the Wesleyans and by the
Church, for Divine Service. There was a larger congre-
gation than I had anticipated. Afterwards, Mr. Buckner,
the Military Chaplain, with whom I am staying, rowed
me a mile or two up the river, the banks of which are
pretty, and covered with the euphorbia.
On Wednesday we returned to King William's Town.
I have omitted to state that on Friday last 1 rode out
with Colonel Mackinnon, to visit the mission-station of
Mr. Birt of the London Missionary Society. Mr. Birt
has the credit of having done more than most of the
other missionaries around him in the way of promoting
industry and civilization. His chapel was built almost
entirely by the Kafirs. A considerable number of
wattle-and-daub houses were either finished, or in the
course of erection ; and in several of these, articles of
furniture were to be found. Most of the people on the
station have their gardens, and an increasing breadth of
land is being brought under the plough.
August \st. — This day I went, accompanied by Mr.
Fleming, to Umhalla's kraal. Mr. Shepstone rode
no BISHOP OF Capetown's
there from Fort Murray to meet us, and acted as in-
terpreter. I had intended to go on horseback, but,
the weather proving rainy, Colonel Mackinnon very
kindly pressed me to go in a mule-wagon. We took
a tent with us, which we pitched at the old deserted
post of Fort Waterloo. We did not arrive until dusk,
not having been able to start early in the morning
in consequence of my having fixed ten o'clock for the
consecration of the burial ground at King William's
Town. The distance is about thirty mUes. I was on
the look-out during the day for suitable sites for our
mission-station, but, of course, could not fix upon any,
being ignorant of the nature of the soil, the quality of
the water in the streams which we passed, and the
position of the various places with reference to the
population of the tribe. The situation which appeared
to us most desirable, was on the banks of the Kahoon
River. I am disposed to think that the wisest course
for us to adopt, will be for our missionaries on their
arrival to repair some of the ruined huts at Fort
Waterloo, and remain there until they are in some
degree acquainted with the country, and can fix \ier-
manently upon a site. This will bring them at the
outset into close intercourse with the chief, whose kraal
is close by, and give them an opportunity at least of
obtaining an influence over him; whereas, if they were
to settle at a distance from him, they would probably
not see much of him.
Unhalla is the principal chief of the T'Slambie tribes.
He has upwards of 10,000 people under him. He is not,
I fear, a promising subject himself, being addicted to
drinking, and "eating up" his people, — i.e. robbery and
injustice. He does not bear a good character, compared
w ith the other Kafir chiefs, but he is an able and influ-
ential man, and no mission exists amongst his people.
After we had partaken of a little food, atc walked down
in the dark to pay the chief a visit ; but we had hardly
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. Ill
left our tent before we met two of his messengers
coming to ask for a present. We found him sitting in
a large smoky hut in the midst of his counsellors, wives,
children, &c. There was a fire in an earthen bason
in the middle of the hut, which partially lighted it.
Most of the people were smoking ; and Mr. Shepstone in-
formed me that they had been drinking beer, but this
they had discontinued before our arrival. We crept into
this crowded reception hall with some difBculty, and
were nearly blinded by the smoke. After I had seated
myself on the floor, I bade Mr. Shepstone explain to
the chief who I was. He got up to welcome me and to
shake hands. I then asked him if he remembered ever
meeting me before. He perfectly recollected the two
occasions on which we had met, and spoke of circum-
stances connected with them. I explained to him that
I was travelling through the country over which I had
spiritual charge ; that I had been from home four moons,
and should be still journeying for five moons more ; that
in the course of my travels, I had arrived at King Wil-
liam's Town, and had come expressly from that place to
see him, not being willing to leave the country without
doing so. He thanked me, and said he was very glad
to see me. I then told him that I had not yet heard of
the teachers whom I had sent for — that they had to
come a great way from beyond the sea ; but that I hoped
they would soon arrive. He said that I must send him
the Archdeacon, who had been to see him ; that he had
taken a great fancy to him, and would have him for his
teacher. I told him that he could not be spared, and
enumerated all the places in the Archdeaconry that he
had to look after; but said I would send him a good
man whom he would like, and who would teach him
about God. Umhalla then said that "he was a great
chief, and that I was a great chief; that he would be
very glad if I would come and teach him : but that he
knew that this was impossible, for he had heard how
112 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
many places I had to go to, but that if I could not come
myself, I must send him the Archdeacon." Thinking
that it Mas from pride that he desired to have one of our
great men to teacli a great chief, I told him that the son
of one of our great chiefs in England, (the Hon. and
Rev. H. Douglas, who had A^oluntecred for this special
work,) was willing to come and teach him ; he said,
" Very well, he might come too, but he hoped I would
let liim have the Archdeacon." This he repeated twenty
times during the course of our conversation, which lasted
about two hours. If I felt quite sure that he appre-
ciated in any degree the noble character of my dear
friend and brother, and desired to have one so eminently
qualified for the work with him, for his own salce, I
should augur well for the success of our future mission ;
but I could not quite satisfy my mind that this was the
case, although I think it far from improbable.
I gave the chief a blanket with red stripes, for which
he had asked when the Archdeacon was here, and Mr.
Fleming gave some beads and knives to his children.
He told us he had ten wives, but two had left him, — and
twenty-six children. Some ol' these had very sweet
countenances. I then endeavoured to turn the dis-
course to religious subjects. Umhalla assented to all
I said and told him, but did not seem much interested,
although he asked me questions about the soul coming
back after death to visit those who are yet in the flesh.
Like most of the heatheu in this land, he professed to
assent to the truth of there being but one true God.
I pressed upon his attention the commandments of
God, with special reference to Kafir vices and sins, the
doctrine of a future judgment, and the misery or blessed-
ness of the de.id. I then talked to him of the country
through w Inch I had been travelling, but found that, like
the common people of his tribe, he knew very little
even of the greatest chiefs, at a distance. He knew
Faku by name, and had heard of Mosbes, but never of
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 113
Panda. When I told him Panda Tias Chaka's brofher,
lie said lie had heard of the latter and of his ■wars. He
promised to lielp the missionaries in every Avay in his
power when they came ; and when I asked him where
he thought they had better settle, he said lie would go
about with them, and help them to choose a spot. All
his people listened with much interest to what was
passing, and he was so much excited that the perspi-
ration ran down his naked body during the greater part
of our interview. After taking some sour milk, we
parted very good friends. I told him that I always
prayed for him and his people to God, and should con-
tinue to do so ; that, though I was a chief, yet I was
but chief minister or servant, and that if God had not
given me other work to do, I would willingly settle
down amongst his nation and teach them the knowledge
of the one true God, and Jesus Christ his Son. He
thanked me, as he had repeatedly done before, saying he
must see me before I went in the morning. Accordingly,
before I had washed myself in the river, he came up
with most of his wives to introduce them. We waited
till we had had some breakfast, and then received him in
our tent, and the others at the door. They speedily ate
and drank up all that was left, and we had some more
friendly conversation about the mission. Whatever may
be his motives, I am sure that he will be thankful to
have clergymen for his tribe. It may be that he thinks
that they will befriend him with the civil power; or
improve his people in worldly knowledge ; or give him
presents (though I specially impressed upon him that
they would be poor men, and could not give presents,
and that he must help them); or bring a "winkel"
(shop) in their train ; but whatever be his motive, he
will be glad, I think, to see a teacher come into his land.
God grant that such may be speedily raised up. The
field is white unto the harvest, but the labourers, alas !
are few. Our prayers are, I trust, not wanting, that
I
114 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
the Lord will be pleased to send some true and faithful
servants into this portion of the vineyard.
In my further conversation with Umhalla, I endea-
voured to impress upon him that our motives in coming
to him were to do him good in this world, and in that
which was to come; that we were not soldiers, or
traders, or Government-officers, but men of God, who
wished to teach him the things of God. I liked his
whole manner, in spite of my distrust of him. He said,
apparently with some feeling, that he knew there was
a God, and that he must serve him ; that he could not
do this without his help, and that he must pray to him
for help, and that he would pray. All this may have
been mere talk and compliment, but I would fain hope
that this poor savage is not all hypocrisy, however bad
his general character may be. AVe are apt, I think, to
judge too severely of the heathen. What can we expect
from these poor Kafirs ? They are brought up, generation
after generation, amidst scenes of depravity and vice which
could hardly be conceived by those unacquainted with
heathenism ; they have nothing about them to raise and
improve them ; they have been nurtured amidst \var and
rapine, and have been in deadly conflict with us from
childhood ; the greater number of Europeans with whom
they have mixed, and do mix, have not sought to do
them good, but have let them see that they despise
them, and regard them as no better than dogs ; and it is
we that have taught them to drink. It is a sad fact,
true of this as of all other colonies, that the native
population becomes worse and not better for its contact
with civilization and a professedly Christian people.
I parted with Umhalla, satisfied, on the whole, with
mj' intei'view with him. I reminded him again that
we were men of peace, not of war ; that there had been
too much fighting between our people and his people;
that henceforth, I trusted, our great aim would be to
do him and his people good; to teach them to cultivate
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 115
their lands, and how to become civilized like ourselves;
but above all, to know and serve God. He gave me
his assegai, as a token of friendship, and that there
should be no more wars between us ^
We returned to King William's Town on the 2d.
August Sd. — I am now leaving King William's Town,
and am about to re-enter the Colony. My Visitation
will yet extend, if God spare me so long, until Christmas.
I feel that no man can bear the wear and tear of the
work " which cometh upon me daily" for any great
length of time; but I am content to bear it, so long as
He enables me, and I can in any way serve Him, whose
I am, and to whom I have pledged my life. The re-
sponsibilities and anxieties, however, arising out of the
peculiar circumstances of this diocese are very great.
To this moment, a grant of 700/. a-year, pledged to me
by the Government for seven additional Clergy, has
never been confirmed by the local legislature, in con-
sequence of the breaking up of the Council through the
Convict Agitation ; and I may be called upon any day
to refund what has been paid to them, and to support
them altogether for the future. The new Elective
Council is composed of men who are not members of the
Church, nor very friendly. The difficulty therefore of
providing a maintenance hereafter for the great body of
the Clergy who draw upon me for their stipends is one
of my chief sources of anxiety, my funds being already
pledged to the utmost. The keeping up the parishes,
also, to the full amount of their promised contributions,
and the labour necessary to bring a church to its com-
pletion ; the unhappy condition of those parishes which
are still without a minister, and the impossibility of
raising sufficient funds to warrant me in bringing more
clergy out; the jealousies which have been excited
(1) Umhalla has not engaged in the present war. He is " sitting still, "
but renders us no assistance, like Toise and Pato, and the other T'Slambie
chiefs. They call him the Gholaub Sing of South Africa.
116 BISHOP OF CAPET0^V^•'S
amongst various bodies of Christians in consequence of
the progress of the Church during the last two years,
and the bitterness with which we liave been assailed ;
the efforts which the Church of Rome is making in
this eastern province ; the agitation which has arisen
within the mother Church in consequence of a re-
cent judgment, which has its reverberation here; all
these are sources of much anxiety at the present
moment. One great consolation, however, I am per-
mitted to enjoy. There is not one of the Clergy whom
I have brought out who is not doing well in his parish,
and some have been eminently successful in rearing up
infant Churches in fields too long neglected. If God be
with us, we need fear nothing. Would that I could
learn more fully to cast all my care upon Him, assured
that He careth not for me only, but much more for His
Church. " Lord, increase our faith."
I have endeavoured, during the few days that I have
been in British Kaffraria, to form some opinion of my
own as to the system adopted towards the Kafirs, and
as to their present condition and future prospects : and
I have come to the conclusion, which I believe most
people have arrived at, that no other system could have
been adopted with safety, — that it is essential to our
own security, and is working well for the Kafirs them-
selves, and even acceptably to many of them. We
have assumed the Sovereignty of the country. The
chiefs have had the land divided out amongst them, but
they occupy it, not as totally independent powers, but
in subordination to the Briti.sh crown. The Queen is
the great chief, and they hold their lands of her. The
power of the chiefs has been much circumscribed, but
they still govern their people by their own laws without
any interference on our part, except when wc are
appealed to, or any great wrong is done. The principal
occasions in Avhich we interfere are when thefts or
murders are committed, witchcrafts practised, or a
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 117
chief" eats up" one of his rich subjects. An instance
of this has just occurred with reference to my friend
Umhalla. The witch-doctor, who is the great ally of
the chief, and the instrument by which he works for
the destruction of his people and the replenishment of
his own stock of cattle, informed against a rich man of
the tribe as guilty of witchcraft. He was instantly
" eaten up," i. e. deprived of every ox, cow, and calf.
These were divided between the chief and his counsellors.
Captain Maclean, the Commissioner of the T'Slambie
tribes, insisted upon their disgorging the prey. Um-
halla was compelled to give up ox after ox, till he re-
tained only a calf, which he said he wished to keep for
his mother. But this was not allowed, and he w^is
made to send it back. In doing so he sent a message
to Captain Maclean to say, it was the only time in his
life that he was ever beaten. He has been sulky ever
since. So far as I can gather, our rule is acceptable to
the common people, who feel the benefit of laws ad-
ministered with justice, and the protection given to life
and property ; but, as might have been expected, it is
not so agreeable to the chiefs. One does not wonder
therefore at hearing that they have been talking of
moving over the Kei, and becoming again independent.
Colonel Mackinnon, however, is of opinion that if they
were to do this, their power would be greatly broken,
and that they would not be followed by the great body
of the people. I should grieve much if such a move
were to take pLace ; for the result would be that we
should hereafter have a repetition of our old wars on a
more distant frontier.
Being strongly of opinion that we must hereafter be
led to colonize the whole country between British
Kaffraria and Natal, it seems to be of much importance
that our old enemies should remain where they are,
under the influence of a system which is gradually
changing them. I do not indeed mean to say that we
118 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
shall have no more border wars, but I cannot but
hope, if the existing sj'stem is persisted in, and marlied
with firmness, justice, and kindness, as it is under
Colonel Mackinnon and his subordinate Commissioners,
that we may escape future collisions. It must, however,
be remembered that the present generation has been
educated in stealing ; they are thieves by profession.
Of course, a mere system of Government will never,
however ably conducted, elevate a people. They re-
quire to be trained, and educated. This is being par-
tially, though imperfectly, done by means of missions.
The children are in many cases being taught in the
Mission Schools. European dresses are being partially
adopted, — and European houses built. The plough is
also being introduced; but no great progress has as
yet been made in any of those things. The civilization
of Kaffraria is yet in its infancy ; and its conversion to
the faith has yet to be accomplished.
I was glad to see, on my ride to-day, a farm with
wagon, oxen, &c. belonging to a Kafir. He has just
brought his brother to occupy another farm near him.
European houses were rising up around him.
There are about 80,000 Kafirs in British Kaffraria.
The Tambookics beyond our territories are said to
amount to 90,000 ; Kreli's people to 60,000. But these
latter calculations are not based upon any accurate data.
There is no census. Our military posts arc fixed in
several parts of the land. The troops, however, are
not employed in executing the orders of Government.
Everything is done through means of the Kafir police,
which is a very effective, and, so far as they have yet
been tried, faithful body.
I rode to-day to Fort Peddie, distant about thirty-five
miles. Col. Somerset having kindly placed Cape Corps
horses at my disposal. I took up my quarters at Capt.
Campbell's, who was kind enough to invite me to his
house. On arriving at the post, I found that in reply to
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 119
a communication whicli I had made, several parties were
anxious to be confirmed, — others to have children bap-
tized, — and others again to take steps towards the
erection of a church. I therefore spent a portion of
the evening in conversing with the candidates for con-
firmation, and appointed them to meet me in class at the
magistrate's office to-morrow morning; for I thought
it better to receive them, if at all prepared, rather than
let the opportunity, which to some of them might not
again present itself, pass by. I fixed also eight o'clock
on Monday morning for a meeting of the people.
Sunday, August 4lh. — A busy day. At nine o'clock, I
met the candidates for confirmation, ten in number,
and was much pleased with tbem. I found them well
acquainted with the catechism, and apparently in
earnest. I remained with them tiU eleven o'clock,
when we held service in the room generally used by the
Methodists, but belonging to the post. There was a
crowded and attentive congregation, and seven com-
municants. After service, I called upon several church
families, some of the members of which were sick. This
occupied my time till three o'clock, when I held service
again. I had one churching, ten candidates for con-
firmation, and seven baptisms. I both addressed the
candidates extempore, and preached ; Ave had again
an excellent congregation. After evening service, I
walked to see some sick members of the Church at a
Mission station, about a mile from the Fort, and to call
upon the Missionary whom I had deprived of his place
of worship for the day. I returned somewhat late, and
fatigued, although I have enjoyed the services of the day
very much.
August 5th. — Rode to Graham's Town, in company
with Mr. Fleming, who arrived at Fort Peddie, from
King William's Town, a distance of thirty-five miles, by
nine o'clock in the morning. The whole day's ride was
upwards of eighty miles. We were met about fifteen
120 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
miles from Graham's Town by the Archdeacon and
Clergy, Col. Somerset, and several of the laity. I was
thankful to find all our friends well, and the work of
God, I trust, prospering in their hands. Before I left
Fort Peddie in the morning, I held a meeting of the
members of the Church. They entered into a subscrip-
tion towards the erection of a church, amounting to
nearly 100/. They were anxious about the appointment
of a clergyman. I could not hold out much hope to
them in the present state of my finances. I was not
even able to promise them, which they were urgent that
I should do, that a clergyman should hold service in
their village once a-month ; though one of their number,
with some degree of justice, said that as I had founded the
Church there by the baptisms, confirmations, and Holy
Communion celebrated the previous day, they looked to
me to carry on the good work which had been begun.
Fort Peddie, formerly in the neutral territory, is now
part of the province of Victoria, within the colony. The
district consists of about 600 square miles, out of
which 140 square miles have been assigned to the 3,000
Fingoes who have been located there. These Fingoes,
like all their race, are covetous and saving, and there-
fore add yeai-ly to their stock of cattle. But in other
respects they do not seem to improve much. The
Wesleyans have a mission amongst them. The Fingo
popxilation came originally from the county of Natal, or
the uninhabited regions which I have lately passed over.
Chaka drove them out of their country, and the Kafirs
in their depressed state enslaved them. We have been
their emancipators, and they have always been with us
in our wars. There still exists much enmity between
the Kafirs and Fingoes ; the former still affect to despise
the latter. All the Fingoes on this frontier are now
subjected to direct taxation. The system commenced, I
believe, last year, when the .'5,000 around Fort I'eddiewere
rated at 10s. per family; 415 families paid this amount.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 121
Up to the pi'esent time in this year, only 290 have paid.
Mr. Edge, the magistrate, thinks that about 500 out of
660 families will pay; but the tax has been raised to 1/.
per family, and they are suffering much in consequence
of the failure of their crops. This system of taxation
is justified on the ground that they have had land given
free of rent ; — that they cost the colony a good deal
in the appointment of superintendents, police, &c. ; and
enjoy the protection of the law, while they contribute
but little to the revenue of the country, as they use but
few articles of import. These reasons are, I think,
in their present state, fair, provided they be not too
heavily taxed ; but as they advance in civilization it will
of course be highly unjust to tax one part of the com-
munity, w^hile others are exempt. I prefer, however,
the system of taxation adopted in Natal, where the
huts, and not families, are taxed. There, when a man
has eight or ten wives, living, as they do, in separate
huts, he has to pay 7s. 6d. for each of them. Here the
poor man with his one wife pays as much as the rich
man with his ten. In Natal, the tax not only presses
more heavily upon the rich man, but serves as a direct
check upon polygamy. There are eight petty chiefs
over the 3,000 Fingoes in the district of Fort Peddie.
Graham's Town, August \'2th. — I have been here now
a week. My time has been fully occupied in making
arrangements for my future Visitation, in receiving and
returning the visits of the parishioners, and in discus-
sing matters of deep interest to the Church with the
Archdeacon.
Yesterday I preached twice at St. George's. The con-
gregations were very good. Every one speaks with
great satisfaction of the increase of the congregation
and of the number of communicants since the arrival
of the Archdeacon, and also of the increase of de-
votion in the people. A large proportion of the con-
gregation now kneels. The offertory averages, I think.
122 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
about 41. per week. The Sunday and grammar school
has been completed. Tlie building is substantial and
handsome, and has cost about 900/. Some disappoint-
ment has been felt in consequence of the non-arrival
of a master. A master has, however, been appointed,
and will, I trust, speedily arrive ; but in the mean
time parents are sending their boys to the Romish
priests to be educated, as they are also entrusting
their daughters to the nuns who have lately come out ;
the evil effects of which have already been felt. Our
Grammar School is at present under the charge of a
catechist ; it has 21 boys in it. The Sunday School,
which appeared to be in a good state of discipline, has
about 160 children in it. I understand that the Romish
bishop has withdrawn the priests whom he had sent
to Cradock and Somerset. I confirmed to-day 46 of the
younger members of the Church. They all appeared to
feel deeply, and some Avere much affected. They have
been carefully prepared for this holy ordinance by the
Clergy.
Thursday, August \Glh. — To-day I received the follow-
ing Address from the Churchwardens and Vestry, Avhich
I insert here as indicative of the feelings of the members
of the Church by whom they have been elected to their
present offices.
" To the Right Rev. R. Gray, D.D., Lord Bishop
of Capetown.
" The Address of the Vestry of St. George's Church, in
the name and behalf of the Members of the Church
in Graham's Town, in communion with the united
Church of England and Ireland.
" My Lord, — We are happy to see your Lordship
again amongst us, enjoying luidcr the Divine blessing
health and strength, and continually labouring in the
Lord's vineyard with zeal and energy befitting your
high callinjr.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 123
" We rejoice that the Institutions of our Church, now
happily in course of development in the Colony, are, as
it would seem to us, devotedly appreciated by its mem-
bers. We hail with delight your Lordship's unremit-
ting exertions to extend the blessings of the Gospel
among the surrounding native tribes, and we pray that
those exertions, aided by the much-respected Clergy of
your diocese, may, through Divine assistance, prove
eminently successful.
" We are happy at having witnessed the confirmation
of a large number of our young friends and neighbours
in whose welfare we feel the liveliest interest, and we
congratixlate your Lordship on the prospects thereby
opened.
" That your Lordship may long live to witness the
foundations thus laid (' the good seed which thou hast
sown in thy field') grow up into a tree, so that the birds
of the air come and lodge in the branches thereof, is
the sincere prayer of your Lordship's most obedient
servants and followers in Christ."
To this Address I replied at some length. The sub-
stance, however, of what I said is embodied in the fol-
lowing remarks:
" Gentlemen, — I sincerely thank you for your kind
and cordial welcome to this part of the diocese. It has
pleased God to bring me safe hitherto through a long
and difficult journey. I gratefully acknowledge His
goodness therein, and trust that He may spare me to
finish this visitation, which, when completed, will have
occupied nearly nine months. I only regret that the
vast extent of the diocese renders it impossible for me
to continue long in any one place, or to become ac-
quainted, as I could wish, with the members of the
Church. The only remedy for this will be a subdivision of
the diocese, an event to which I look forward with hope
124 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
at some future day. You express your satisfaction at
the development of the Church since I was last amongst
you. I rejoice with you therein, and bless God for it.
Many — very many, of our brethren, who had for years
been deprived of the ministrations of their own Church,
have been supplied with them, and appreciate Avith your-
selves their increased privileges and blessings. We must
not, however, forget that much yet remains to be done.
In several places the Church is not yet built, and in-
creased exertions will be needed for the maintenance of
the ministry. There are still some villages and districts
which are without those means which have been sup-
plied to others, and which I am at present unable to
provide from want of funds. Upon the great and deeply
interesting work of the conversion of the heathen to the
faith, we can scarcely be said to have yet entered in
earnest.
" For the carrying on of all these important and holy
undertakings, the Church in this Diocese will, I trust,
learn to depend more and more upon the blessing of
God resting upon its own exertions. It is right and
necessary, indeed, that we should, in our infant state,
lean for support both upon the mother Church and
upon the Government of the country ; but I trust that
the increase of piety and zeal within our own commu-
nion will render us from year to year less dependent
upon others for the carrying on the work God has given
us to do in this land. I gladly hail the success which
has attended your weekly collections at the Offertory,
and on other occasions, as a token of this ; and I con-
fidently look forward to an increase from these sources,
— especially to the fund for the maintenance of the
Ministry. I have only, gentlemen, in conclusion, to
congratulate you on the great increase which has con-
fessedly taken place in the numbers who attend at
Divine Service in this church since my last visitation.
I pray that, along with this outward enlargement of the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 125
body, there may be an inward growtb in Divine truth
and godliness, ' till we all come, in the unity of the
faith, and of the knowledge of the Son of God, unto
a perfect man, unto the measure of tlie stature of the
fulness of Christ.' Gentlemen, again I beg to thank you
for your kind welcome, and to express my readiness to
cooperate with you to the utmost of my ability in all
yovir designs for the furtherance of God's glory, and
the advancement of Christ's religion in this important
parish."
On Saturday, Aug. lltJi, I left Graham's Town for
Bathurst, my cart having been repaired, and my horses"
somewhat refreshed. We outspanned for a time at Mr.
W. Currey's, and arrived before dark at Mr. Barrow's,
where we found a party awaiting our appearance.
Sunday, IS///. — We had Morning Prayer at eight
o'clock; at ten, the Litany, Confirmation, Sermon, and
Holy Communion. There were twelve candidates for
Confirmation, and about thirty communicants. The
congregation was large, some having come from a great
distance. Several young ■women rode seventeen miles,
and returned again in the afternoon. The collection at
the Offertory was about \\l. In the evening we had
full service at six o'clock. The magistrate's daughters
formed the choir, and chanted the hymns of the church
very well, and in a devotional spirit. One individual
from Cuylerville, Avho had ridden seventeen miles to the
service, spoke anxiously about an appointment of an-
other deacon or cathechist to that district. He said
thejr could not come often to the church here, and they
felt it " so lonesom.e" on a Sunday.
Circumstances have compelled me for a time to dis-
continue our services at that post, where there was an
excellent, and apparently devout, congregation ; and
want of funds, and the fear of involving myself, and in-
curring liabilities which I cannot meet, alone prevents
my resuming the station. I stated this frankly, and
126 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
this young man undertook to see wliether they could
not raise sufficient funds to lighten my responsibilities.
I was grieved to say, that all that I could at present do
■vvas to assure them that I bore them in my mind, and
was most anxious to send them another teacher so soon
as I could see my way clearly in the matter.
Monday \9th. — Met several of the parishioners in the
vestry. Endeavoured to stir them up to raise funds for
an endowment, or the erection of a parsonage. They
thought 100/. might be raised i'or this purpose. It was
agreed that there should be a monthly Communion, and
monthly Offertory. Those who were present were quite
willing that this latter should be weekly, but thought it
better to begin with it in this parish once a-monthonly.
Afterwards I examined the Government school.
Tuesday 20lh. — Started for the Cowie, accompanied
by Mr. Dyason, the resident magistrate, Mr. Barrow,
and Mr. Waters. It being low water, my cart was
driven across the mouth of the river, which, it is hoped,
will soon become one of the chief ports in the colony.
After taking luncheon with Mr. Cock, I mounted the
horse which Colonel Somerset had kindly sent for me,
and rode to Theopolis, a missionary station of the
London Society. The station of late years has been
much affected by the departure of a considerable number
of its most industrious inhabitants to the Kat River
Settlement.' The institution is beautifully situated.
It has a fine estate annexed to it of, I believe, 7,000
acres of excellent land, w orth, I was told by a neigh-
bouring farmer, at least 3,000/. The buildings are on a
large scale; but the houses of the coloured people are
in a most dilapidated condition, and scarcely any of the
land is cultivated, though I was told by the person in
charge that there were nearly 100 people resident upon
it. Most of the London Society's institutions which I
(1) The Ilottentols at each of these places have joined the Kafirs in
the war now raging.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 127
have seen tvlthin the Colouy, as Pacclesdorp, Bethels-
dorp, Zaurbrak, are in a languishing condition, but at
this there really seems to be scarcely anything doing.
It is true indeed that there is an infant school kept by
the daughter of the last missionary, and another school
by a coloured man ; but there is no missionary residing
at the station, the only representative of one being an
old soldier, who, in addition to his other functions, keeps
a store. Those in charge did not affect to conceal the
fact that it was doing no good whatever. The only
reason for maintaining it arises from an unwillingness
to give up the land, which Government allows the
Society to occupy rent free, on the ground of its being a
missionary station. I was pleased to hear how grate-
fully all the people in this part of the country spoke of
Colonel Somerset's exertions during the last war.
Almost the whole neighbourhood was indebted to him
for the preservation not only of the property, but even
of the lives of the inhabitants. In the evenmg I rode
on to Southwell, the station of Mr. Waters, whom I
hope shortly to ordain Deacon. Here I found the
Archdeacon, who had come down from Graham's Town
to bring me a large packet of letters Avhich had arrived
since I left him. Mr. Waters keeps school at Southwell
during the week, and officiates there every Sunday.
Once a-fortnight he has services at Riet Fontein, and
the Cowie mouth. He has also attempted the establish-
ment of a small mission and mission school for the
surrounding Kafirs, which is our first direct attempt at
missionary work. The Archdeacon's Kafir man, Wil-
helm, is to be a kind of Catechist under Mr. Waters.
After passing a tolerable night on the sofa, I endea-
voured to prepare for the services of the day. We had
first the Litany ; after which I confirmed ten candidates,
Avho seemed to feel much on the occasion, and whom I
addressed at some length. Then followed a sermon,
and the Holy Communion; about twenty comrauni-
128 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
cated. After the services were over, several of the
farmers of the district dined witli Mr. Waters. I spoke
to them strongly on the necessity of doing something
towards the endowment of this chapelry, and promised
them 100/. in aid of it, on condition that they raised at
least an equal amount before Christmas. This they
thought they should be able to do. As soon as our
meeting was concluded, we mounted our horses, and
rode about ten miles to the Wesleyan Mission Station
at Farmerfield. This is said to be one of the most
flourishing institutions in this part of the country.
There are four distinct races of coloured people residing
upon the property ^vhich has been bought by the
Society. There are Fingoes, Bechuanas, Hottentots,
and Kafirs. They require to be addressed in the Dutch,
Sechuana, and Kafir languages, 'ihere is no missionary
residing on the station ; it is under the charge of a
catechist. "\Vh«n I arrived, I found that all the people
on the station had assembled in the expectation that I
would preach to them. For this I was not prepared;
but, not liking to disappoint them, I spoke to them for
about half an hour through a Bechuana and a Kafir
interpreter. The people on this station cultivate a
considerable quantity of land, and have nearly thirty
wagons belonging to them. I understand that they
almost supply Graham's Town with fire-wood. A con-
siderable number are baptized, and many read and
write. It was nearly dark before our service was over.
We had still, however, about six miles to ride to Salem,
where we were to sleep at the house of the Wesleyan
missionary. Salem is not, properly speaking, a mission
station. It is a small vill:>ge consisting chiefly of
English. There is a Wesleyan school for boys, of whom
there are about twenty, and girls, of whom there are
about six. I sat up till late talking over some subjects
of interest which the gentlemen of this institution wished
to discuss with me.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 129
Thirsclay, August lid. — After breakfast, rode through
.1 fine open country to Church-place, where there is
a building used as a Church, and belonging to the
Dutch, in which tlie minister from Uitenhage holds
service once in six months. Mr. Henchman holds
service here, and at Mr, Heugh's in Olifant's Hock, one
Sunday in every month, and has a small congregation
at each place. The population is, however, chiefly
Dutch, and the people are very anxious to have a
minister who can officiate in their own language. They
asked me to use my influence to obtain them one. At
about two o'clock I held service in the Church, and had
a very good mixed congregation. After Divine service,
I rode on with Colonel Somerset to Mr. Heugh's in
Olifant's Hock, distant about twelve miles. This part
of the country is very beautiful, abounding in bush and
fine yellow-wood timber. It somewhat reminded me of
the coast country at Natal. Mr. Heugh's house is
prettily situated about a mile from the sea.
Friday, 23d. — Started this morning at day-light, on
horseback, and arrived at Quagga's flat, forty-five miles
distant, before two o'clock. Here I held by appoint-
ment a meeting of some of the inhabitants, who are
anxious to erect a small chapel; which they hope may
be done for 100^. or 150^ the greater part of the labour
being given gratuitoush'. It was decided to commence
a subscription, and 40/. were raised in the room. I fixed
upon a site, and promised plans. It will be very
plain and simple, and is to be built of rammed earth.
A very good spirit prevailed, and several, having built
their own houses, resolved that they would have a
Church, even if they had to build it altogether by them-
selves. At a little after three I got into my cart, and
arrived at Commando Kraal, near the Sunday River,
.'ibout seven o'clock.
Saturday, 2Ath. — Arrived at Port Elizabeth in the
afternoon, and took up my quarters at Mr. M'CIeland's,
K
130 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
■svho refused to allow me to go to a lodging. I found
the town somtwhat enlarged since I arrived at it nearly
two years ago. The bay too had fourteen ships in it,
and I understand it has frequently many more. I fear
that our Church work is not advancing with the worldly
progress of the chief port of the Eastern Province.
There is no parish that I have been more desirous to
assist than this, ever since my arrival in the Diocese.
There is scarce one for which I have been enabled to
do so little. I remain here nearly a fortnight in the
hope that I may be able to devise some plan, in con-
junction with the parishioners, for the extension of our
work. May God bless my endeavours with success.
It was only yesterday that Mr. Henchman of Sidbury
suggested my sending a clergyman here, and leaving him
to be altogether supported by the voluntary offerings of
the Church, as I could not undertake the responsibility
ef inviting another clergyman out from England to be
dependent upon my funds. The proposition is worth
considering. I should not despair of finding a clergy-
man, were the circumstances known in England.
Port Elizaheth, Augtist Z\st. — I have now been in this
town a week, having arrived last Saturday. My time
has been fully occupied in conversations, &c. with the
parishioners, in the general business of the Diocese,
and in religious services. On Sunday I directed notice
t^o be given that I would sit on Wednesdays and Fridays,
during my stay, in the vestry, for the purpose of seeing
any persons who might wish to converse with me on
matters relating to the Church, or of a spiritual nature;
that there would be Divine service on those days ; and
that the consecration of the Church and Churchyard
would take place on Friday. The services on all these
occasions have been exceedingly well attended. During
the Meek I have bad a good deal of conversation with
the parishioners respecting the state of the Church in
this parish. I have said plainly that our work is in a
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 131
more dead state here, and at Uitenhage, tlian in any
other part of the Diocese. Many feel this, and are dis-
tressed at it. Several of the more earnest members of
the Church with whom I have spoken agree with me,
that we ought to make an effort to procure the erection
of a second Ciiurch at the north end of the town, \^hich
is increasing very rapidly. I therefore addressed the
following letter to the members of the Church, which
has been printed, and circulated by the Churchwardens
through the Parish : —
" Brethren. — Since my arrival amongst you, several
zealous members of our communion have expressed to
me their earnest desire to see another Church erected
at the north end of the town, with a special view to thp
spiritual wants of that portion of the parish, of our
poorer brethren, and of the sailors Avho frequent this
port ; and one at least has offered to contribute liberally
towards its erection.
" I have long felt that there existed a need of an
additional Church and a second clergyman in Port
Elizabeth, and have some months ago stated how far
I might be enabled to forward these objects in a pecu-
niary point of view.
" I am anxious now to repeat publicly to you, that
I still have at my disposal a sum of 250/. given by Miss
Burdett Coutts, for increased Church accommodation
for the poor, and that from the Society for Fromot'mg
Christian Knoivtedge, and other quarters, I feel assured
that I can obtain 150/. more. This whole amount of
400/. I am willing to guarantee towards the erection of
a Church, provided the inhabitants can raise, during the
present year, a sum of 500/. from private sources to
meet it. I cannot pledge the sum 1 have named after
this present year, because the demands upon me from
every quarter are so very heavy, that all the funds
placed at my disposal will by that time be well nigh
182 BISHOP OF Capetown's
exhausted. Should there be no prospect, tlierefore, of
a second Church beinsj; erected, I must devote the sum
I have mentioned to other more preashig objects. But
should .'500/. be raised by Christmas, I would then sug-
g;est that a Church, to contain 200, or, if possible,
250 persons, should be erected upon the land offered by
Mr. Tee and Mr. Korsten, or such other site as may be
deemed more desirable. The Church would of course
be so constructed, as to be capable of future enlarge-
ment, so that when completed it might hold perhaps
500. The nave might first be erected; aisles, chancel,
and tower might be added, as funds were forthcoming.
I should be sorry, however, to see anything like a
large debt incurred : and a Church to hold 200 would
probably not cost less than 1000/.
But the thought will naturally occur to us all, — IIow,
when the Church is built, is the minister thereof to be
supported? I have already pledged myself towards the
maintenance of clergy in the Diocese, to an extent
beyond what is prudent; and there are still, in several
parts of the land, many of our brethren utterly destitute
of the means of grace. I must at once, therefore,
candidly say, that, whatever I might have been able to
do a yctar ago, I have not now the means at my disposal
for the support of an additional clergyman, lie must
altogether depend for his subsistence upon the free-will
offerings of the members of the Church in this parish.
I have myself no fear that an earnest minister, who will
devote himself to the visitation of the sick and needy, to
Sunday Schools, and to labouring among the poorer
members of the Church, will ever be suffered to want,
by those who have the power to give, and who are not
at present called in any way to support their Pastor.
With this understanding, then, I am willing to look
out for a clergyman, and bring him out, and place him
here to minister amongst you. I cannot, of course,
undertake to say when one will be found vvillmg to
VISITATFON JOURNAL, 1850. 133
leave liome, and all that is dear to him, to labour in
this place upon such terms. But I have a good hope
that of the very many clergy of the English Church
whose sole desire is to spend and be spent for the
glory of God, the advancement of Christ's Kingdom on
earth, and the salvation of the souls for whom He died,
one may be found to offer himself for this work before
your Church can be completed. If yon then are pre-
pared to cooperate in the attempt now being made to
provide additional means of grace for this important and
rising town, I will use every endeavour in my power to
provide for you a faithful and zealous pastor.
Commending this work to your support, and your
prayers, I remain, Brethren,
Your friend and Pastor,
R. Capetown.
Before this letter was printed, sixteen gentlemen
undertook, at my request, to act as a committee for the
collection of funds. On Friday I met them in the vestry
of the church, when a Building-Committee was formed,
and steps taken to promote the erection of the church.
To-day I have met the Committee again to select a site
and commence a subscription. A very eligible situation
has been fixed upon, the ground being given by two
individuals. About 200/. were contributed in the room
by the Committee, and the greatest confidence was ex-
pressed that the amount required would speedily be
raised. In the afternoon I rode out to the Retief Light-
house, which is nearly finished. I enjoyed my ride
much, for it was the only relaxation that I have had
since I have been in this place. The light-house is a
very fine piece of mason-work, and has already cost
upwards of 7,000/. It is said that if it had been erected
a little sooner, several of the most distressing wrecks
which have occurred during this present year would in
all probability not have taken place.
134 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
On Siindcaj, Sept. 1, I preached twice to very large
congregations, and administered the Holy Communion
to about sixty persons. Between the Services I attended
the Sunday-school at the north end of the town, estab-
lished by Mr. Tee, who has erected a wooden building
specially for it. I afterwards attended the Sunday-
school, which is carried on in the church under the
zealous old clerk. The children here still bring their
weekly pence ^^for the Bishop's Missions" alas, not yet
in operation. The box was opened before me. Alto-
gether they have raised about 6/. The offerings in
church were about 15^. for the same object to-day. I
addressed the children for about half an hour on the
subject of Missions. The services of the day were all
very encouraging.
Sept. 2. — Drove out with some gentlemen to see the
Maitland mines. It has long been known that there
are in this neighbourhood veins both of lead and copper.
Several gentlemen have formed themselves into a com-
pany with a view to work them, or at least to ascertain
whether they are Avorth working. No great progress
has as yet been made. Several shafts have been driven
a little way, but no rich veins have hitherto been dis-
covered. The ore, however, is said to be very good,
and the indications most promising.
Sept. 5. — This day I left Port Elizabeth after an inte-
resting, and, I trust, profitable visit of twelve daj-s.
Several persons have availed themselves of my invitation
to meet me in the vestry, and with them I have held some
most interesting conversations. I am very anxious that
the Clergy, wherever it is practicable, should adopt this
plan, which I myself followed in England, of sitting at
stated periods in the vestry, for the purpose of seeing
those who may wish to seek their spiritual counsel.
I am perfectly satisfied that there are some persons in
every parish w ho are most anxious to have close con-
fidential intercourse with God's ministers, but who
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 133
know not how to approach them. This practice of
sitting in the vestry to receive them opens a way for
such intercourse, of which I find the people of this
Diocese well inclined to avail themselves. Several in
the parish have told rae how much they needed advice
and instruction, and how thankful they were for it.
Our congregations have been excellent during the
whole period of my stay; On Sundays the church has
been quite full. On Wednesdays and Fridays I think
there must have been about 150 present. During the
twelve days that I have been here I have preached eight
times.
Yesterday I held my official Visitation, and examined
into the affairs of the Church. I suggested to the
Churchwardens and Vestry that an addition of 50/i
a-year should be made to the stipend of their Minister,
who has been labouring amongst them for many years
on a very insufficient income. This was agreed to,
although there is still a debt of upwards of 200^. upon
the church. The Vestry, however, quite assented to
the propriety of having collections every Sunday, and
it was arranged that they should have them.
The Vestry presented to me the following address : —
My Lord, — We the undersigned, the Minister, Church-
wardens, and Vestrymen of St. Mary's Church, in Vestry
assembled, beg to offer to your Lordship our sincere
congratulations on your safe arrival amongst us once
more. In the protection which has been afforded your
Lordship during your long and arduous travels through
the perils of the wilderness, we cannot fail to recognize
the watchful care of the Great Head of the Church ; and
the success by which your I^ordship's endeavours to
advance the glory of God have been hitherto attended,
induces us to look forward to a time when, through the
length and breadth of the land, the word of the Lord
shall have free course and be glorified, through His
136 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
blessing upon the same continued exertions. We are
well aware of the many difnculties by which your path
was obstnicted, when your Lordship first engaged in
the great work of building up the Church in this long-
neglected portion of the British dominions; and, al-
though your Lordship's labours may be truly said to be
only in their beginning, still, the facility with which
obstacles have been overcome leads to the belief that
the Lord has been with you of a truth, and that He will
continue to prosper His work in your hands.
During the short stay of your Lordship in this portion
of your Diocese, the interest in the welfare, temporal
and eternal, of the inhabitants of Port Elizabeth which
characterized you in your first Visitation, seems to have
suffered no diminution; and the willingness with which
your Lordship has come forward to aid in the erection
of an additional church for the accommodation of the
rapidly increasing population of the town, is the best
evidence that can be adduced of your Lordship's untir-
ing exertions in this particular.
Although the want of some superior education to that
imparted in the Government schools has already occu-
piedyour Lordship's serious attention,still wedeemit our
duty to bring tliis important subject to your notice again,
as the difficulties under which the inhabitants labour
in this respect are becoming every day more pressing.
That your Lordship may be long preserved, and
spared to a good old age, to see a prosperous issue put
to all your labours, is the heartfelt prayer of your
Lordship's obedient and faithful servants.
To this I replied in words to the following effect :
Gentlemen, — I beg to assure you that I fully appre-
ciate the kind expressions towards myself personally,
contained in the address which you have just delivered.
I do indeed (eel deeply grateful to Almighty God for
His merciful care and protection during this long and
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 137
arduoiTS Visitation, and amidst the many anxieties
which must needs beset the first Bishop of so important
and long neglected a Diocese, in times of much trial
and difficulty. You allude to the measure of success
with which it has pleased God to bless our endeavours
to advance His cause in the world ; and you regard it
as the earnest of richer mercies yet in store for us.
We cannot be too thankful for God's goodness and long
suffering towards our Church, which at length has,
I trust, become fully alive to its responsibilities, and is
endeavouring to make adequate provision for the spiri-
tual wants of its people. Whether we are to expect
a continuance of the Divine favour, and richer manifes-
tations of God's blessing and presence, will depend in
no light degree upon ourselves. Increased zeal, devo-
tion, and faithfulness ou our part, will lead to increased
blessings on God's.
The Mork of the Church in this Diocese is, as you
rightly observe, only beginning. It will require the
earnest and united eff'ort of every member of our com-
munion to bring it to its completion. I hail with satis-
faction the exertions which many in this flourishing
town and port are making for the erection of a second
church. I have already, in my letter addressed to the
parishioners, expressed the deep interest which I take
in this work. There are few things in the Diocese
which I am more anxious to see accomplished ; and
none which I shall be more ready to promote to the
utmost of my power. With reference to the subject of
education, to which you allude, I can only now say that
I am fully alive to its importance ; that I regret with
yourselves the inadequate provision which exists for
those who desire to see their children enjoying a sound,
liberal, and religious education ; and that I shall at all
times be prepared to cooperate with you in your
endeavours to secure for yourselves so inestimable a
blessing. I would willingly have offered to bring out a
138 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
clergj'man for this special work, were it not that I am
already involved in very serious liabilities which I do
not feel justified at the present moment in adding to.
My prayers are united \vith yours, that it may please
God very abundantly to bless his work in this portion
of His vineyard.
I quit Port Elizabeth with some degree of comfort,
and with more hope than when I entered it. The people
are certainly very anxious about their church, and there
seems to be but little doubt that the money will be
raised. The parishioners are kind-hearted and friendly,
and, if it please God to raise up a zealous and judicious
man for this post, I feel assured he will be of much
service, and be largely blessed in his work. I slept at
Taylor's, Commando Kraal, beyond the Sunday River. I
have for my companion Mr. Ebden, late member of
council, whom I found in Port Elizabeth, and who is
anxious to proceed to Graham's Town. I have, there-
fore, offered him a seat in my cart. On Friday I
arrived at Sidbury. On calling at Mr. Daniel's, Sid-
bury Park, I found several gentlemen coming out on
horseback to meet me. They returned with us to
Sidbury. On Saturday I consecrated the church. On
Sunday I confirmed eleven, administered the Holy Com-
munion to sixteen parishioners, and preached twice to
very respectable congregations. I am very thankful to
find that a great change for the better has taken place
in this parish since the arrival of Mr. Henchman.' The
people now take an interest in their church, and attend
Divine Service. Some, who did not like the establish-
ment of the weekly ofTcrtory at first, told me yesterday
that they had quite changed their minds ; th:it they now
see that it is on every ground most desirable, and that they
feel assured that the alms of the people will increase.
All, they said, would have given more, had they not
(1) See Note A., at the end of the Volume.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 139
still been in some difficulties. Tliey liave not yet
recovered from the effects of the late Kafir war, in
1 847 ; and the losses which they now sustain by stealing,
on the part of their herds, or strangers in the colony,
are very great. One fiirmer present told me that he
had lost in this way 600 sheep during the last year.
Another said that the annual loss in sheep was one
tenth of the flock. The drought this year is greater
than has been known for many years past, and the
locusts have been very destructive. The whole country
appears quite burnt up, cattle are dying in considerable
numbers, and there is scarce sufficient water for daily
use. My horses have been very unwilling to drink it,
because what there is, is very bad. The gentlemen of
this parish bore very strong testimony to the excellence
of the present system in British Kaffraria. So effective
is the Kafir police on the frontier, and so certain to
trace to their hiduig-place any cattle that may be driven
across the line, that all the thieves and vagabonds have
ceased to make the attempt. Cattle and sheep are now
driven over the Orange River, amongst the Mantatees
and Bechuanas. They all cried out for a better system
of police in the colony, declaring that farmers would
gladly give from 20/. to 30/. a-year towards its establish-
ment. But they affirmed that under the present system,
their losses would almost be equal in ten years to
another Kafir war.
Saturdatj, September \-\lh. — I arrived in Graham's
Town on Monday last. My time has been chiefly
occupied in some very anxious business connected with
several parishes, arising chiefly from the difficulty the
people find in completing the churches which they have
begun. The expense of building in this colony is greater
than any o.' us have been willing to believe. Though
the designs of the churches have all been very simple,
they have in most cases exceeded the means which are
at the disposal of the several committees, St. Helena
140 BISHOP OF Capetown's
has also furnished me with several topics for careful
consideration. On Wednesday evenin<j I preached. On
Thursday I attended a tea meeting in tlie new grammar-
school. The vestry had invited the parishioners to meet
me. There were about 300 present. After tea and
some music, the report of the building committee was
read, and sundry resolutions adopted. It appears that
the school-house cost 900/., and that a debt of 160/. still
exists. Tiiis it was determined to liquidate by a general
subscription. After the report was read, I addressed
those present at some length, entering first into matters
of a local character, and then upon the general prospects
of the Church, and the work which was lying before it
in this Diocese. I ixrged upon the parishioners the
erection of a boarding-house in connexion with the
grammar-school ; spoke of the necessity of our attempt-
ing hereafter to found a college for the eastern province ;
and warned parents against sending, as some were
doing, their children to the convent for instruction. I
then pointed out to them the great progress which the
Church, by the blessing of God, had been enabled to
make within the colony, during the last two years.
There had been an increase of thirty-one clergy in the
Diocese during that period, thus trebling the whole
mimber. I reminded them of the great state of spiritual
destitution in which many of our bretl.ren are still
living in several villages and districts ; and urged upon
them the duty of doing all in their power towards
maintaining the work of God, and the ministry of the
Church. I then entered upon the missionary field,
and spoke of the obligations of the Church. I told
them of the steps which had already been taken
towards the foundation of a mission, both in British
KalTraria, and in the colony of Natal ; and informed
them that it was my intention, if God spared me, to
return to England during the course of next year, with
a view to promote this and other good works. Those
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 141
present seemed much interested. 1 concluded wifeh
urging them to remember that the Cluu'ch in S. Africa
had a great work to accompUsh ; that though it was
true that, from past neglect, there was much to be done
all at once, which it was impossible that we should be
able to accomplish by ourselves in our present weak
state, and, therefore, Ave justly leaned in some degree
hoth vipon the mother Church and upon the Government;
yet that this was a state of things which ought not to
continue, and would not continue. Tliat what we had
to depend upon was the blessing of God resting upon
our own exertions. That what every parish must learn
to do was this ; to maintain our whole church-work
through means of the Aveekly offertory ; that 1 rejoiced
that they w^ere aiming at this, and setting an example
to others. I concluded with entreating all to make the
cause of God and His Church in this land the subject of
their unceasing intercessions.
SiDidcuj, September \5fh. — I preached in the morning at
St. George's, generally upon ttie state, prospects, and
responsibilities of the Church, with a sjjccial reference
to the subject of Missions. In the afternoon I preached
at Fort England, where service is held, which both
civilians and military attend. There being no military
chaplain allowed at this place, though it is the head
quarters of t^vo regiments, the clergy of the town have
readily undertaken the duties which seemed to devolve
upon them. Their zealous eflbrts have met with a
response from the troops. They speak with more satis-
faction of their work amongst the soldiers, than amongst
any other class of the community. There is always a
good congregation at the second service at Fort England.
Many of them attend the week-day services, and one or
t\^o even the daily prayers of the Church. The Arch-
deacon preached in the evening. ■.
Saliirday, 2\st. — This has been a busy and anxious
week. The pressure of Diocesan business has been
142 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
itiorp ihan usually heavy ; and the examination of the
candidates for Holy Orders has afforded full occupation
to the Archdeacon and to myself. On Saturday I conse-
crated the church and churchyard. The church was
full, the parishioners appearing to take a deep interest
in the matter. The Archdeacon preached with his usual
power, comparing the state of the Colonial with that of
the mother Church in the way of gain and loss, and
endeavouring to arouse the minds of his hearers to a
deeper appreciation of their privileges and duties. We
have had full service with sermon every evening this
■week, the Clergy taking it in turn to preach. The con-
gregations have been good, and there is an increase in
the number of attendants at early prayers.
Sioidai/, 22<^/.— This day I ordained one Deacon, and,
assisted by the Clergy, four priests. There were present
altogether ten Clergy. I preached on the occasion. The
congregation was very large; communicants about
ninety. The service was not over until nearly three
o'clock. The offerings for the sick and aged Clergy
amounted to nearly 2Gl. ; yesterday, for the church,
they were about 12/. It has been a solemn day for us
all. I preached again in the evening.
Mondcnj, 23f/.— The Clergy of the archdeaconry of
Grahamstown this day assembled in synod. Several
were unable t > be present owing to the great distance
they would have to travel, and the impossibility of pro-
viding for their duty during their absence. Mr. Steabler,
for instance, at Bloemfontain, would have had to travel
400 miles each way. The Clergy agreed to apply to Dr.
Bray's Associates for a grant of books, to form a library
for the archdeaconry. Steps were taken to place the
Bocietrj for Fromotbig Chndiaii Knowledge upon a better
footins:, so that the books and tracts of that Society,
which has bean so great a benefactor to this Diocese,
might be introduced into every parish. I requested the
Clergy to state, after full consideration, to the Arch-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 143
deacon what they thought would be the best boundaries
for their respective parishes ; and I informed them that,
upon their doing so, the Archdeacon would make a
general report to me on the subject, and that I would
thereupon fix definitively the boundaries of the parish
for each Clergyman. Afterwards I brought tinder their
notice our contemplated mission-woi'k, both in British
Kafi'raria and Natal, and laid fully before them the plan
which I proposed to adopt. They expressed their
hearty interest in it, and their entire approbation of it.
I then sought their counsel as to the desirableness of
my returning to England, the more effectually to carry
out my plans, both in the selection of men and raising
of the funds required. They expressed unanimously
their conviction of the expediency, if not the necessity,
of my returning home for that purpose ; and, though
fully aware of the great inconvenience which all would
feel from the prolonged absence of the Bishop of a
Diocese so lately formed, and still in so unsettled a
state, they assured me they would cheerfully submit to
whatever loss or inconvenience might be occasioned, in
order that the great work of the conversion of the
heathen might be the more eff'ectually promoted.
Tuesday, 'i\th. — We resumed our session this day.
The subject of Missions was again renewed. One of
the Clergy thought that the Mission work should begin
with the Church in South Africa itself; or at least, that
if it did, we should be better entitled to say to the
Chvtrch at home, " Come over and help us." He offered
himself for the work, if I thought good to send him, and
said that he should feel honoured in being sent forth to
the heathen. I believe he but spoke the sentiments of
others present. Towards the close of our session, I
brought under the notice of the Clergy the Declaration
which I had prepared respecting the Convocation.
I am thankful to say that they were unanimous in their
approbation of it. They felt that the circumstances of
the Church at home called for an expression of the
144 BISHOP OF Capetown's
mind and judgment of this distant branch of it, and
•were most anxious to show this sympathy with the
mother Church under her present trials and difTiculties.
Both yesterday and to-day we liave had full service,
with sermon, in the evening, in addition to the usual
Morning Prayer.
Wednesdai/, 2r>th. — Married Mr. Fleming, Military
Chaplain at King William's Town, this morning, after
which I started on horseback, in company with Colonel
Somerset, for Fort Hare. Several gentlemen rode out
a little way with us. It is now nearly two years since
I proceeded precisely in the same way, in the same
company, along the same road. Since that period GoD
has wrought much for the ad\ancement of His cause
and Church in South Africa. May we be found faithful!
W'c slept at the neat little inn at the Koonap. I was
thankful to have a good night's rest, and a little cessa-
tion from exhausting business. I have every reason to
be "grateful that God preserves me in health amidst
incessant and most anxious toil. I do not think, during
the month that 1 have spent at Grahamstown, I have
had more than an hour or two of leisure. Indeed, I
have been obliged to leave it, with much which ought
to have been done left undone, and much more done,
I fear, in a slovenly way, though I have worked, I may
fairly say, night and day. My dear friend and brother,
the .-Archdeacon, seemed almost worn out uhen I left.
Thursdaii 26l/>. — Arrived at Alice about two o'clock,
after a hot ride of about thirty miles. Spent an hour
with Mr. Beaver talking over business, and the state of
his parish ; after which, I went up to Fort Hare, Colonel
Cooper having kindly invited me to take up my quarters
with him during my visit to this place. During these
last two days, I have heard a good deal abotit the
probability of an outbreak on the part of the Kafirs."
It is said that they are suffering so much in consequence
(1) See Xote B. at the end of the Volume.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 145
of tbe long-continued drought, that they think they may
as well die by the ball as by famine. It is certain that
they are in great distress and want. Their melies are
all gone, and none are to be had in Alice at less than
thirty shillings a muid (the price the Kafir gets for
them when he sells them to a trader being four shillings
a muid). Milk they have none. The cows do not give
any, and are themselves dying of starvation. The
ground is too hard to allow of their sowing seed for
pumpkins ; and these things form the chief food of the
Kafir. He relies upon his melies for five months in the
year, milk for four, and pumpkins for three : and all
these have failed him. I drove out in the afternoon,
after my arrival, with Colonel Cooper, and had brought
vividly before my eyes the state of destitution to \ihich
these poor people are reduced. The mimosa, which
abounds here, has been stripped of its bark to furnish
them Avith food, and that, with roots Avhich the Avomen
are digging up all over the country, forms the chief
support of the population. Can we wonder that they
should begin to think of stealing ? It is said that they
are well supplied with guns and ammunition through
the traders, and there can, I think, be no doubt, from
all one hears from various quarters, that they are at
present in a state of considerable excitement. This it
is thought has in part arisen from the appearance of a
man amongst them, claiming to be a prophet, who is
exercising great influence over them.
We passed by Macomo's kraal : he was standing by
his hut, smoking, and stupid from drink. He came up,
however, to shake hands.
Friday 27th. — I confirmed, this morning, nine candi-
dates in the court-house at Alice. The building is but
small, and the congregation more than filled it. After-
wards I consecrated two military burial grounds, and
visited a seminary or training institution belonging to
the Free Kirk of Scotland, which is intended for the
L
146 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
education of coloured children for teachers, in the same
school Tiith the children of European parents. There
Avere in the Institution about eighteen of each race.
The Europeans pay from 20/. to 25/. each ; the coloured
children nothing. The children are together only during
school hours. They do not live in the same building,
or take their meals in common. The coloured children
dine after the white, in the same room and at the same
table. I do not see that any good can arise from such
a mixed education. The distinction between the races
is more marked than if any Avere educated in -nholly
separate establishments. None of the children were far
advanced. In arithmetic, they did sums in compound
multiplication ; they read some of Chambers' books on
sreography and astronomy, full of hard words, and
answered some simple questions relating to religious
truth. It is the fashion in this colony in almost all
schools to teach Chambers' books. Little children who
can scarce spell are dosed daily with a smattering of
science, or rather scientific terms and words, to the
neglect of more useful and important things. The whole
colony is, however, I believe, well-nigh sick of the
system. The Government gives 100/. a-year to this
Institution. There has been a shocking murder com-
mitted in this neighbourhood, within the last few days,
which is illustrative of the little regard in which the life
of the natives is held by iTiany Europeans. The son
of a neighbouring farmer was out in the veldt, with a
servant, an Englishman. They saw a Kafir going along
the road, and called upon him to stop. He did so.
They asked for his pass. He had none. They told him
they would take him prisoner, and proceeded to loose
the rein from their horses' neck to bind him. He ran
away, but stopped about twenty paces off. The English
servant walked up to him and deliberately shot him in
the neck. He fell down dead. The farmers, doubtless,
have much to «ndure. Thev lose immense numbers of
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 147
sheep, but if sucli deeds as these are perpetrated, vtc may
justly expect Kafir wars as God's scourge and chastise-
ment. The Kafir had about seven pounds of meat and
a chisel. He had no assegai, nor even a knife ; and it
is supposed was on a journey. His murderer is in
custody. I am told that I passed close bj^ the dead body
in my ride yesterday.
The military villages which were founded after the late
war are in a languishing state.' Kemp is broken up ;
Joanna nearly deserted; at Woburn not a dozen
remain; Ely is suffering much from "the drought, and
its population is much diminished : at Auckland the
decrease is not so great; but all are reduced. Soldiers
do not generally make good settlers ; but unmarried
soldiers are sure to fail in their attempts. So at least
it has been in all these villages.
On Saturday, after returning several calls, I drove in
my cart to Fort Beaufort. The day was intensely
hot. Finding Colonel Somerset still here, I have talked
over with him the subject of a subscription to purchase
food for the Kafirs in their present destitute state. He
has entered readily into it, and agreed to write to Colonel
Mackinnon on the subject; and if he should think it
desirable, to cooperate with the Ai'chdeacon in setting
one on foot. I have written to the Archdeacon about
it. I took up my quarters with Mr. Wilshere, who is
allowed the use of a portion of the fine stone barracks,
which are now nearly empty.
Sunday 29tk. — We had a very large congregation this
morning in the church, which was in the course of
erection when I was last here, and is now completed.
Ecclesiastically speaking, the building is very incorrect,
but it is neatly fitted up inside. Our whole work here
is carried on by means of the weekly offertory, which,
however, does not produce as much as might have been
(1) The male inhabitants of these villages were all murdered at the
breaking out of the war — January, 1S51.
148 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
expected. Still, during the two years that a clergyman
has been here, much has been effected. The church is
finished and paid for, an organ has been purchased for
loo/., several churchmen have made special oiferings,
e.g., a very handsome communion cloth, a pair of
Glastonbury chairs for the altar, books, &c. The pews
have no doors, and there are no pew rents. We had
seventeen candidates for confirmation, and thirty-five
communicants. I both preached and addressed the
candidates. The service lasted nearly three hours and
a half. In the evening, also, we had an excellent con-
gregation ; I preached again.
Monday SOth. — This morning' the church was conse-
crated. There were present of the clergy, Mr. Beaver,
Mr. Willson, and Mr. Wilshere. The congregation was
very large. 1 preached on the occasion. Afterwards 1
went with several gentlemen to inspect the new church-
yard, which I told them must be fenced-in previous to
consecration. In the evening Mr. Wilshere invited the
members of the church to tea in the long barrack-room.
About seventy were present. An address was presented
to me expressive of the satisfaction of the inhabitants
at the progress made since the last visitation, &c. To
this I replied at some length, and entered into a full ex-
planation of the circumstances of the church in the
Diocese. 1 took this opportunity of pressing upon the
parishioners that it was absolutely necessary that their
offerings towards the support of the ministry should be
greatly increased. It is essential that it should be
thoroughly understood by the whole diocese, that the
work cannot be carried on without increased effort upon
the part of all. I informed those present of the steps
I was taking towards the formation of missions to the
Heathen, both in British Kaffraria and Natal ; and en-
treated the benefit of their prayers.
Tuesday, October Ist. — After returning several calls,
(1) See Not ■ C, at the end of the Volume.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 149
I started about twelve o'clock, accompanied by several
gentlemen on horseback, for the Mancazana. I have
arranged for ray cart to meet me at Shiloh next week.
Colonel Sutton having kindly furnished me Avith Cape
corps horses, I have decided to ride this week through
the Winterberg. We did not arrive at the Mancazana ^
post till late, having stopped at several farm-houses ou
the way. The ride was through a very beautiful
country, though sadly burnt up at present. Mr. Boon,
the catechist at this post, was looking out anxiously for
our arrival.
To-day's post informed me that four of the members
elected by the people to frame a constitution for the
colony have resigned. There is no country, that I know
of, in the world, with a small population of 200,000, so
thoroughly divided as this in language, race, and re-
ligion. There are more than twenty different religious
bodies: besides Mahomedans, and Heathen. There are
four languages spoken, and at least four distinct races
residing in the colony. There is a vast amovint of
ignorance, and I fear there ever must be, from the
scattered nature of the population. In the country
districts, a very large proportion of the children of the
present generation are growing up without being able
to read and write. Altogether our political prospects
are not encouraging.
Wednesdcnj 2d. — Soon after breakfast this mornino-.
several parties came in for the confirmation and services.
With these I conversed previous to the hour of church.
There were eleven candidates whom I addressed at
some length. I also preached to an attentive congre-
gation of about sixty, some of whom had come from
a great distance. After service I held a meeting of the
parishioners at the post. I took the opportunity of
consulting them about the services held at the different
stations, and brought under their notice the subject of
(1) See Note D, at the end of the Volume.
150 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
pecuniary support for a minister. I informed them tliat
I could not keep up the Avork here without considerable
contril)utions from them : that their ucckly offerings
Tiere very small, and wholly inadequate; that I wished to
know what they were prepared to do. I spoke to them
very plainly, and at considerable length, on all these
points. They seemed to feel the necessity of doing more;
and pi-oposed that a subscription should be opened, in
addition to the weekly offvirtory, which they did not
wish to give up. By this means they thought that
those who lived at a distance would have an opportunity
of contributing. I told them I should not object to a
subscription, though I had no confidence in it. One
■was begun in the room, and only 171. put down. I felt
constrained to intimate that unless the contributions
were very largely increased, I should be obliged, how-
ever reluctantly, to withdraw the present catechist from
the post ; that the demands upon me from every part
of the Diocese were so heavy that I could not give
towards this work more than a small annual sum.
Tliursday 3d I held service to-day at the old
post, a few miles off, and afterwards conversed with the
people who had 'assembled. It was somewhat un-
willingly that I went to this service, which was held in
a private house, and was the first at this station, which
Las only just been occupied, in consequence of the
commencement of a village in the neighbourhood. I
preached extempore, and Avas very glad afterwards tliat
I had gone; for a good, earnest, devout spirit prevailed;
the people made a collection of their own accord, and
entered their names readily in the subscription book.
Several expressed themselves very properly, and with
much good feeling; and I think tliey are really anxious
to maintain a standing ministry amongst them. I told
them they might bring as offerings a goat, or a sheep,
or an ox, or a horse, if they had no money. In the
afternoon, Mr. Boon had several of the parishioners to
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 151
meet me at dinner. I again pressed upon their atten-
tion tlie duty of offering of their substance to God;
and urged them to devote at least a tenth to His service.
In the evening, walked out to call upon the Church-
Avardens.
Friday ilh. — Rode to Retief, thirty miles, through
the same beautiful country which I admired so much
two years ago. We called on oue or two of the parish-
ioners by the way. One, who had been a wealthy
former on my last visit, was now a bankrupt. I believe
his loss is proving gain to him. I endeavoured to turn
the hour I sat with him and his wife to good account.
I trust he may yet live to bless God for his chastise-
ment. I examined at Kaal Hock, a little school of
about thirty children, which Mr. Willson had got up
since I was last here. The children are, I think, ad-
vancing. This school receives 30/. a-year from govern-
ment. I am anxious to see more of these country
schools spreading throughout the colony. If they do
not, the next generation of the agricultural population
will grow up in barbarism. At present, the government
funds are given almost exclusively to support free
schools in the towns and villages, which want little or
no assistance, and set very little value on the govern-
ment. Some of these cost between 300/. and 400/. a-
year, and are doing but little good. It is with the
greatest difficulty that schools are raised or maintained
in the country districts, where the popvilation is scat-
tered.
Saturdatj 5th. — This morning I went a few miles to
examine another church school. There were about
thirty children here also. It put me much in mind of
our little village schools in England. As but few people
came to our church meeting, appointed to take place at
twelve o'clock, it was soon over, and I had some time
in the afternoon for letter writing.
Sunday 6th. — We had a large gathering of people this
152 niSIIOP OF CAPETOWN S
morning. Divine service was held in the commissariat
room of the Fort, which makes an excellent chapel. It
was quite crowded, and indeed many had to remain
outside. I did not preach, but, instead, addressed the
congregation extempore after morning prayer upon such
points as I felt it to be of importance to bring before
them. These people, the greater part of whom are old
settlers with not much education, have risen by their
own exertions to competency. From long neglect and
lack of teaching, they have not, 1 fear, much knowledge.
I therefore spoke to them very familiarly, contrasting
their past state without the means of grace, with their
present blessings; and urging them to devote the tenth
of their substance to forward the work of the Lord, in
the erection of churches, support of ministers, and
missions. I addressed separately the unconfirmed and
unwilling to be confirmed, the confirmed, communi-
cants, and those who neglect communion. After this
we proceeded with the confirmation ; when I again
addressed the candidates, of whom there were eight.
The number of communicants was fifteen. The
people seemed to feel the services of the day a good
deal. All, or nearly all, remained for the afternoon ser-
vice, when I preached again, — though many came from
a great distance. Several of the ^vagons would not
reach home till to-morrow. The day has been one of
much comfort both to Mr. Willson and myself. 1 trust
there is a real Avork going on in the souls of some.
Certainly there is a manifest improvement in the
general state of things. May God give more abundant
grace ! '
Oct. 7th. — We started early this morning for Shiloh.
The distance is about forty-five miles. Our route lay
over the Winterberg, and we had to walk up the pas.s.
In our way I called upon a sick man, dying, I believe,
from the excessive use of brandy; I was told that he
(1) See Note E, at the end of the Volume.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 153
took two bottles daily. He professed to be penitent,
but I stand in donbt of him. Unfortunately one of the
Cape Corps horses took ill upon the road. The Hotten-
tots did not know Avhat to do with him. I therefore
took out my lancet and bled him. I left him to come
on slowly with one of the orderlies, but he was obliged
to leave him about six miles off on the road. I start at
daybreak to-morrow to see what can be done for him.
We arrived about five o'clock at the ISIoravian Mission
station at Shiloh. The Brethren received us most
kindly, but I found they had no forage, and that my
cart had gone on beyond Whittlesea to find some.
After changing my dress, and taking a cup of tea,
I walked with Mr. Bonatz, one of the Missionaries, to
Whittlesea, which is about two miles off, notice having
been given that I would hold service there this evening.
The village is quite in its infancy. The only pastoral
visits which it enjoys are those of Mr. Willson, who
holds service here once a quarter. Mr. Shepstone, how-
ever, the magistrate, reads prayers every Sunday. We
had a room full of people. I had intended to preach to
them : but as I had unexpectedly two candidates, both
of whom Mr. V/illson presented to me as fit for con-
firmation, I thought it best to make two short addresses
— one to the congregation, the other to the candidates.
After service I discussed with a few of the people the
possibility of the erection of a small chapel. They
thought one could be raised for 100^., and that they
could collect 75/. I told them that in that case, I would
guarantee them the other 251., to be paid when the
building was roofed in. They said that they thought
some funds could be raised for the support of a minister.
I told them that what they should aim at would be a
deacon schoolmaster, who should both educiite their
children, and minister to them in things spiritual. We
reached home about half-past nine o'clock, and luckily
got safe through the host of dogs, which dwell in great
154 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
numbers in all native habitations, and are very danger-
ous at night. Shiloh has 20,000 acres of valuable land
attached to it, given lately to the Society by Sir H.
Smith. There are about 800 people in the Institution :
Kafirs, Fingoes, and Hottentots ; 300 of whom are
Christians. A considerable quantity of land is under
cultivation, and there is a fine stream of water, in spite
of which, in this severe drought, their crops are suffering
greatly. Mr. Bonatz informed me that some of the
Kafirs have as many as 100 head of cattle. There are
2,000 head altogether upon the Institution, which is
clearly in a thriving state. There are four Missionaries
with their families. The whole cost of their support is
about 200/. a-year. To meet this the mill produces
100/., and the remainder is obtained by the sale of the
produce which they raise, by the shop, and by the wages
paid to the Missionaries for work done by them, some
being carpenters, others blacksmiths. The people pay
no rent for the use of the land, nor do they seem to give
much in the way of offerings. Mr. Bonatz spoke of the
rumours, which are spread everywhere, of an outbreak
amongst the Kafirs. He said that they were dissatisfied
at the repeated burnings of their kraals. This only
happens, 1 believe, when they cross the frontier, and
squat upon land belonging to the Government or to
private individuals.
Tuesday Sl/i. — I did not sleep much last night, being
anxious about the horse, which Ave had left in the veldt.
At half-past four I called up the orderlies, and, after
feeding the horses, went in search of the lost one. We
found he had gone from where he was left over night,
but traced him to a kraal, where the Kafirs had taken
care of him. I drenched him with a bottle of wine
which I had brought out for him, and sent him gently on
to the Kafir police-station, where I had procured forage.
I then returned to Shiloh, after a three hours' ride, with
a hghter heart. The good brethren .soon prepared
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 155
breakfast for me, after wLicli I -".valked round their vil-
lage and grounds. There is a vast superiority in the
Moravian establishments, so far as civilization and im-
provement are concerned, over all other institutions in
this colony. There is more work done, greater industry,
and a more rapid advance in agricultural and mechanical
operations. There are two water courses cut here,
three miles long, which were full even in this dreadful
drought. The gardens were in excellent order, and
abounded with a variety of fruit-trees ; walnut, peach,
apricot, vine, mulberry, apple, and pear. Some very
large fields, all under irrigation, were fenced in with a
willow hedge ; the churchyard, a quiet, secluded, peace-
ful spot, surrounded with an excellent quince fence.
The oak and the willow abounded on every side. All
seemed busy : I did not see any lying lazily about ;
several very good mud houses were in the course of
erection ; a Kafir was planing a door in the carpenter's
shop. Mr. Bonatz showed me, with some pride, a bell
just cast by Mr. Nauhaus, and made out of the hoops
that surrounded some ammunition casks left at the
station during the last war. It was 45 lbs. weight, and
sounded well. It seemed to me as an illustration of the
promise that the sword should be turned into the plough-
share, and the spear into the pruning hook.^ I parted
from the Brethren sooner than I could have wished, and
walked to Whittlesea to call upon some of the inhabi-
tants who were at service last night. They seem
anxious to erect a little school chapel, even though I
was unable to promise them services more frequently
than once a quarter. After tiffin with Mr. Lloyd, Lieu-
tenant of Kafir police, I walked to see a Bushman's
cave in the neighbourhood. There are several of these
in this part of the country : the sides are covered with
rude drawings of men, animals, snakes, &c. This one
had pictures of Kafirs, represented as tall and red, Bush-
(1) See Note F, at the end of the Volume.
156 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
men shooting with the bow,— cows, deer, snakes, buf-
faloes, and some other indescribable animals; the
execution was very imperfect. The Bushmen are, I
believe, the only aboriginal inhabitants who have shown
any disposition to imitate nature. There are still a
certain number of Bushmen in this district of Victoria ;
they are under a chief of the name of Vlux, formerly,
I am told, a soldier in the Cape Corps. The Govern-
ment has recognised their right to a certain tract of
land ■^^ithin the colony. This being more than they
want for their own use, they have let it out to the Tam-
bookies, or allowed them to occupy it. Under the
pretence of rent they seem, lately, to have seized a con-
siderable number of cattle and goats, and blood has
been shed in consequence ; we have had therefore to
interfere, and have captured nineteen Bushmen, through
means of the Kafir police, and they are now in the
"Tronk" awaiting their trial. There has also been a
disturbance between the Boers and Tambookies about
some disputed land. It is said that the Tambookies are
leaving our frontier, and retiring back upon the unin-
habited country through which I passed on my way
from Natal, to secure peace and quiet. About two
o'clock I started off again in my cart, en route for
Burghcrsdorp. We slept at Kama's town, a Wesleyan
Missionary station imder the charge of Mr. Shepstone,
several of whose sons are filling important posts in the
country. He received us very kindly. The Station is
upon land given by Government to the chief, Kama,
who has stood by the English in both the last wars,
literally renouncing kindred, land, and home, for the
Gospel's sake.' He is brother to Pato and Cobus
Congo, both powerful chiefs in British Kaffraria. I was
anxious to see this man, because he is allowed, even
by those who deny that any Kafirs are Christians, to
be sincere in his profession. He has two sons, who
(1) See Note G, at the end of the Volume.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 157
fire living on the Station, both very excellent young
men ; I had much conversation with them.
Wednesdaii 9th. — Kama, hearing that I wished to see
him, came over by seven o'clock this morning from his
own place, distant about five miles. He was well
dressed, and has a fine open countenance. I was glad to
find that he was happy and contented with his land,
Avhich I had heard was not the case. His people, I
believe, are 3,000 in number. Each head of a family
pays 1/. a-year to government. Mr. Shepstone said
they complained of this; but I think, while the great
body of the coloured people do not consume articles of
import to any extent, and therefore pay no indirect
taxes, it is quite reasonable that they should contribute
in some way to the expenses of the country ; e.cj. there
is a division of the Kafir police in their immediate
neighbourhood, a most eff'ective body, to which they,
as well as all the colonists on the frontier, are much
indebted, but to whose support they could not contri-
bute at present except by a direct tax. Kama spoke
much of the present excited state of the Kafirs in con-
sequence of the appearance of the prophet, of whom
I have before spoken. He says that up to the period
when this man assumed the oflice of a prophet, no one
dreamt of war, but that he is now exercising an extra-
ordinary influence over them, and he thinks that they
will do whatever he urges upon them. Many of Kama's
own people have gone after him. Kama has sent one of
his Pacati to his brother Pato to entreat him to have
nothing to do with the prophet, or with war ; and he
has sent to ask the prophet himself what his message
from Heaven is : telling him that he is a Christian, and
cannot believe that he is a prophet unless he speaks in
accordance with God's word. He says, that he thinks
the common people amongst the Kafirs are satisfied
with British rule, and feel the comfort of not being
" eaten up ;" but that they cannot endure the restraint
158 nrsHOP of Capetown's
of not being allowed to roam about wLcre they please.
I parted with Mr. Willson here, he returning home, and
I proceeding on my journey. Our route lay through
the ordinary South African country, dry and sandy
plains, and valleys bounded by bare and bleak moun-
tains. I found a good number of English farms in this
part of the country. The people are living as sheep
without a shepherd. They are, in spite of great losses
in cattle, from the thefts of their neighbours the Tam-
bookies, all growing rich, and could they but be induced
to offer the tenth of their substance to God, might have
their spiritual wants supplied. We passed the night at
a little inn kept by an Englishman.
Thursday lOi/i. — After a tolerable night upon the
sofa, I proceeded on my journey through a country
precisely similar in its general features to that which
I passed through yesterday. Slept at a Dutch farmer's,
the good vrouw making me a bed on some chairs.
Friday. — The weather has become intensely cold;
there was ice of some thickness on the vley near to the
farm, and the wind was so cutting yesterday that I was
fain to have recourse to a horse-cloth. We reached
Burghcrsdorp about eleven o'clock. It is a most deso-
late looking village, and reminded me, with its little
square brick houses used only at the nacht-maals by the
farmers, more of Richmond than of any other place in
the colony. It would be difficult to say what local
advantage could have tempted any one to fix upon such
a spot for a village. The country round about is bare
and uninteresting, — the village itself is a swamp, and it
does not appear to offer a single advantage. It owes its
rise, like some other villages in this colony, to the
Boer's desire to have a village. When once this is
determined on, a farm is purchased, a town laid out,
erven sold. The farmers tliemselves purchase erven,
and traders, &:c. soon follow. Many buy on speculation.
The proceeds go to erect a church. In this way £6,000.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 159
or 80,000 dollars have been realized, a cliurch has been
built, ali'eady showing symptoms of decay, and a very
handsome parsonage, the best, I think, in the colony.
Had this large sum been judiciously laid out, it wovild
have provided an endovrment, as well as buildings.
I understand that one of the conditions of the sale of
erven, since rescinded, was that no place of worship for
any other body of Christians than the Dutch Church,
should be erected. Such being the case, one need not
be surprised that the congregation were unwilling, as
their amiable young minister desired, to offer their
church to me to officiate in on Sunday, there being no
Dutch service on that day, owing to the absence of the
minister. I took up my quarters at a little inn.
Saturday \1th. — Being at an inn, I have had some
quiet in the morning for business ; at ten o'clock I met
the members of the church by appointment in the
court house. I told them that I had come amongst
them on a visit of inquiry to seek out the members of
the church, and take counsel with them as to the
supply of their spiritual wants. That I wished during
my short stay to see as much of them as possible, and
to perform any religious offices. That I was ready to
baptize their children, confirm any whom I might find
prepared, hold Divine service amongst them, and cele-
brate the Holy Communion. All expressed their earnest
desire to have a clergyman. I told them that the only
difficulty was the providing an adequate maintenance.
That Government could give no more assistance, even
if inclined, — the state of the revenue was not such as to
admit of it ; — that I could not maintain one ; but if
they were prepared to bear the main burden I would
aid them as for as lay in my power. It was thought
that if one would combine education with the pastoral
work he might be maintained. I told them I would
look out for such a person as they required, provided
they raised the funds ; that I should prefer to have a
160 BISHOP OF Capetown's
clergyman who could give liimsclf exclusively to the
•work of the ministry, visiting the farm houses in the
country periodicalh', for that I felt that the farmers'
families were sinking gradually into practical hea-
thenism, and that unless something was done for them,
the next generation would lose all sense of religion ; that
in this very neighbourhood I had met with children who
could not say the Lord's Prayer. They seemed to feel
the force and importance of this, but thought that with-
out combining education, a maintenance could not be
secured. It was ultimately agreed that a committee
should be formed with a view to take the whole matter
into consideration, and report to me. They were also
to endeavour to raise funds for the erection of a school
chapel, to which I promised assistance. Should a
clergyman be appointed, he is to officiate once a month
at Aliwal. A Hottentot, baptized in Capetown, was the
first to subscribe. He gave 61. and s.aid that he should
rejoice to have a church to which he might go without
fear of being turned out for being a coloured man ; that
he had not ventured for this reason to set foot in the
Dutch Church since he had been here. I afterwards
called upon several people, and visited two sick men,
one of whom I found brought to repentance by his
affliction. He complained grievously of the want of a
minister, and offered 51. a-year to support one. I dined
with Mr. Cole, the Civil Commissioner, and in the even-
ing had five candidates for confirmation, with whom
I spent a couple of hours. Two of these were daughters
of a former London Societj' Missionary.
Sunday 13///.— Held service in the Court-house this
morning, which was crowded. The responses were
very fairly made, the singing good. I addressed the
candidates extempore, preached, and administered the
Holy Communion to seven persons. The service was,
in consequence, somewhat long. In the afternoon the
congregation was equally good, several being obliged to
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 161
go away for want of room. I baptized some children
after the second lesson. The offerings for the support
of the ministry amounted to 8/. 8s. Between services
I visited some sick, and administered the Holy Commu-
nion to one person. In the evening several people
came by invitation to converse with me. The services
of the day have been very satisfactory.
3Io!fcIfff/ 14/A. — Started this morning a little after six,
for Aliwal North, distant about forty miles. The road
is dreary and uninteresting, and there are but few farms.
I drove round by the hot-springs, which are about two
miles from the proposed village. These springs cast up
about a million and a half of gallons of water daily, at
a temperature of aboi\t 92^. The water tastes precisely
similar to the Harrogate, but loses its peculiar smell
and flavour by the time it reaches Aliwal. The village
is situated on a fine plain on the banks of the Orange
River, by an excellent drift. There are not many
houses at present; but being, as it is said, in the direct
line from East London to Bloemfontein, with a very fair
road, it will, I think, hereafter flourish. The journey
to East London may, I understand, be accomplished in
eight days, and that to Bloemfontein in five. Shortly
after my arrival, a single inhabitant presented himself
as a deputation from the public, and welcomed me, in a
formal address signed by about twenty people, to Aliwal,
hoping that my visit would lead to the erection of a
church and support of a minister. I told him that this
depended almost altogether upon themselves. I soon
fovmd that he at least was in earnest, and therefore
entered into conversation with him. He asked what
would be required to support a minister. I replied,
L50/. a-year. He undertook to raise the money, and
offered 201. a-year himself. I encouraged him to make
the attempt. We then went to examine sites for school,
parsonage, and church ; after which I rode out a few
miles into the country to baptize some children. The
M
162 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
state of the family will very fairly illustrate the condi-
tion of a large number of English on this frontier. I shall
therefore explain it. The father was an Englishman,
well connected at home. He came out to the colony
young, took to travelling, trading, elephant-shooting,
and riotous living. Subsequently he married an entirely
uneducated English girl, and settled down upon a farm.
For several years he has lived without GoD in the
world ; but as his children begin to grow up around
him, he is brought to think seriously of his responsi-
bilities towards them. I found that not one of them
could write, or read, or spell — that they could not even
speak the English language. Unless something be
done, and speedily done, for the outlying English and
Dutch farmers in these remote districts, both for the
education of their children and the supply of their own
spiritual wants, they will ere long sink into a state little
better than that of the heathen who are round about
them.
Tuesday \Mh. — This morning I held Divine service at
eight o'clock, in a large room in the house where I
spent the night. The room was full. I baptized two
more children, and preached extempore from Mark viii.
36, 37 : " What shall it profit a man, if he gain the w hole
world, and lose his ow n soul ? or w hat shall a man give
in exchange for his soul ?" I spoke plainly and simply,
endeavouring to apply the words to those who were
present. After service, the subscription was proceeded
with, and upwards of 10/. guaranteed for five years
towards the support of a minister. A subscription Avas
also commenced for a church.
I hear from various people in this neighbourhood,
that the recent proclamation, by which 150 miles
square of territory, reaching nearly to the Witte Bergen,
has been added to the colony, has given great dissatis-
faction, especially to the coloured people, to whom it
belongs. The inhabitants are chiefly Tanibookies, For
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 163
tlie benefit of being placed under British government,
they pay a capitation tax of 7s. for each head of a
family. The district is called a " Native Reserve." No
European is allowed, at present, to settle in it, or to
purchase land of the natives. The name of the chief of
the tribe is Morosi,' and he has recently been to
Bui'ghersdorp, to protest against being brought under
British government. I heard from an intelligent Eng-
lish farmer to-day, that considerable tracts of land are
being bought in Moshesh's country for one penny an
acre, or for a few oxen. This ought not to be allowed.
It will gradually lead to the expulsion of the Bechuanas
from their land. It is not allowed in the case of a
neighbouring chief, Adam Kok : he is not permitted to
dispose of his land, and for a very sufficient reason, — he
does not know the value of it, and would soon be
cheated out of the whole. No coloured man under-
stands the value of land. He would at any time part
w ith large quantities for a few oxen, a little tobacco, &c.
We did not return to Burghersdorp till eight o'clock.
After taking a mouthful of dinner, I went out to see
some people who desired to converse with me, espe-
cially one person who had expressed an earnest wish to
be confirmed before I left. I was so pleased with her,
that I promised to confirm her privately at six o'clock
to-morrow morning, as it may very probably be three
years before I can visit this place again. She knew her
Catechism perfectly, and traced all her religious im-
pressions to the old clerk at Port Elizabeth and his
Sunday-school.
Wedimduy IQth. — After confirming the person of
•whom I have spoken above, I made an early start for
Cradock. Our road lay through an uninteresting
country, abounding in the spring-bok. We passed the
night at an inhospitable Dutch boer's place, who re-
ceived me coldly enough as an Englishman ; and, after
(1) He has since engaged in the war.
164 BISHOP OF CAPET0^V^•'S
I had retired to my cart, finding from my man ■who
I was, regretted that he had not known before, for he
■would have refused me shelter. As it ■was, I ■\ras
indebted to him for nothing but a little tripe and pigs'
feet for supper. Many of these poor people believe
that there are no other Bishops but those in commu-
nion ^vith Rome; and entertaining, as they do, a trans-
mitted and hereditary hatred and fear of Romanists, are
imw illing to receive them into their houses, or to bid
them God-speed. I passed a sleepless night. There
being no forage but what -was growing hard by, my
poor horses, a''ter travelling nearly fifty miles, Mere
obliged to be tethered for the night, without their
suppers, to an empty vragon. They were consequently
very restless, and one of them got his fore-legs en-
tangled in the wagon, and passed three liours erect on
his hind-legs, struggling to emancipate himself. I
thought for a long while that they were merely quar-
relling, but at length I got up, and was enabled to
release him. We started in the morning without our
breakfast, the family resisting all attempts on my part
at friendly conversation. The good wife at parting
refused me a piece of bread for the road, though I had
just before paid her double what she could have ex-
pected. At the next farm we came to, the people were
very obliging, and gave us what they had. At night
1 slept at another Dutch farm, at which the family w ere
in all respects a perfect contrast to those with whom
I had been the previous evening. They were cheerful,
amiable, kind-hearted, and treated me, as is generally
the case with the respectable Dutch boers, all the more
courteously 'out of regard to the sacred office 'which
I bear.
On Friday, at two o'clock, I arrived at Cradock. The
greater part of the last three hours I walked, the road
being hilly and stony. I find we have taken the shortest,
indeed, but by no means the best road, and my cart
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 165
again shows evident symptoms of going to pieces ; in-
deed another day's rough travelling ivithout repairs,
would, I fear, make an entire wreck of it. Mr. Gilfillan,
the Civil Commissioner, was kind enough to invite me
to stay with him during my visitation ; but, finding that
Mr. Gray had prepared a- room for me, I determined to
take up my quarters with him ; and was very glad to
find myself once more in the congenial society of one of
my brethren in the ministry of Christ.
On Sunday I preached twice, and confirmed in the
Court-house. The congregations were very good. The
Dutch Mmister had kindly offered his church, but I
declined it, chiefly because I know that some of the
Dutch dislike our using their churches, and I do not
choose to be the cause of dissensions between minister
and people ; but also because the Court-house is at
present sufficiently large for our English Church con-
gregation, and I do not think I am called upon to use a
larger building to accommodate those who are not of us,
but might desire to attend our services on the occasion
of a Bishop's visitation, out of curiosity or compliment.
I object also to make such a distinction between the
ordinary ministrations of the Priest, and the occasional
ministrations of the Bishop.
Monday 2\st. — Held a meeting of the parishioners at
twelve o'clock, with a view to take steps towards the
immediate erection of a church. It appeared that out
of 200/. promised two years ago, at my first visitation,
only 163/. could now be depended upon, in consequence
of deaths, removals, &c. The difference, however, has
been almost made up through the offertory during the
seven months that Mr. Gray has been here. The whole
amount of the offerings being nearly 53/. or at the rate
of lOOZ. a-year. We decided that a small church capable
of future enlargement, to cost about 700/., should be
begun, and that the town should be canvassed for further
subscriptions. I announced to them also that JMr. Gray
166 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
•would be prepared to tnke pupils in order to meet the
difficulty of finding means for his support. He is to
give four hours a-day to school work, and take ten
pupils at 10/. each. By this means, and with the
assistance of the offertory, he will be able, I trust, to
live without being any great. burden upon my limited
funds. I decided, with the full concurrence of the
parishioners assembled, that the offertory should, for
the present, be appropriated in the following way — two
Sundays in the month towards the building of the churcli ;
two Sundays towards the support of the Ministry ; one
Sunday in the quarter towards the missions of the
church. Hitherto they had followed the plan sketched
out in my Pastoral letter, without availing themselves
of the liberty therein given to parishes circumstanced
like this. Tliey had consequently applied the offertories
in rotation to the purposes of church building, main-
tenance of the ministry, education, missions, sick and
aged clergy, and the poor.
In the evening I held another and more general
meeting of the parishioners, when I spoke to them for
a little more than an hour on the past and present state
of the Church, its future prospects, and the steps which
I am taking with a view to the foundation of an ex-
tensive mission. The clergy are anxious that I should
touch upon these points in a more full and familiar way
than can be done from the pulpit, and I feel that much
good is effected by these meetings. I come by their
means in closer contact with the lay members of the
Church than I otherwise could ; I endeavour to lead
them to feel that we are one body, one communion, one
brotherhood, from St. Helena to the extreme border of
Natal ; and to induce them to take an interest in our
church work as a whole, which, hitherto, they have
scarcely done at all. It is the flishion in the colony for
congregations to regard themselves simply as congrega-
tions, without recognising their relationship to the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 167
other parts of the same body. I am enabled on these
occasions to give them more complete and accurate in-
formation as to the progress of the good cause in the
Diocese, than they could elsewhere obtain, and to en-
courage and stimulate them by the example and efforts
of others. I find that they take an interest in what they
hear, that they are comforted, and strengthened, and
cheered amidst their own difficulties, by finding how
others, circumstanced as they are, either have overcome
them, or are doing so. And the result is, I think, that
they exert themselves the more, and with a better
courage. In the evening, also, I called upon the judge,'
who had just arrived, and whom I found very ill. On
calling again in the morning I found him somewhat
better, and he determined to go into court. I did what
I could to induce him to give up his intention, and
return home, but was unable to succeed. He would
not allow me to write to the Cape to say how unfit he
was for duty, so I tore up the letter which I had pre-
pared. I much fear that he will not be able to get
through his work.
JFednesdmj 28d. — Started late for Graaff Reinet, my
cart not being ready, though four men had been at work
upon it ever since my arrival. We lost our way, and
arrived by a difficult road at an intelligent Englishman's,
whei-e we passed the night. We were off again at day-
break. In the middle of the day the iron axle of my
cart suddenly broke. My first feeling was one of great
thankfulness that this severe accident had not happened
between Natal and King William's Town, for, had it
been so, I must inevitably have left my cart, with the
greater part of my luggage, to its fate. No assistance
could have been obtained there. After taking some
food, I mounted one of my horses, and rode Avith Mr.
Gray (who accompanies me to Graaff Reinet) in search
of assistance. After riding some hours we came to a
(1) Judge Meiiziesdied soon afterwards on circuit.
168 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
farm, and obtained the ])romise of a span of oxen, and
a Avagon, upon which it is proposed to put the cart, and
bring it on to Mr. Liesching's, at Avhose house we
arrived after dark. The road, hoAvevcr, over the uagon-
pat-berg, is so very rocky and precipitous, that it seems
doubtful whether the cart can be brought in this way.
I\Ir. Licsching, therefore, in the morning, very kindly
sent his son and a blacksmith with a bar of iron, in the
hope that they may be able to repair the axle. Mean-
time I remain with Mr. Liesching, feeling thankful that
I have such comfortable quarter's. His farm, which is
a very beautiful one, belonged to the rebel Pretorius.
Mr. Gray rode ou to Graaff Reinet to announce the
delay to Mr. Long, and to put off the consecration of
Lis church.
Saturday. — .\ day of disappointment. The smith who
■was sent to my cart got intoxicated, and did not remain
to complete his job. He came back, however, saying
all was done, and my man coming on with the cart.
But shortly after Mr, Liesching's son came home with
a different story. The smith's work w as a failure, and
Ludvvig resolved to wait for the wagon, w hich he was
expecting every hour. The Dutch Boer, who had made
great professions of a desire to assist, had sent no
wagon, but instead had gone himself to Graaff Reinet.
A Hottentot, to whom he had committed the job, could
not find his oxen, and nothing had been done. Mr.
Liesching most kindly sent two more men to look for a
Avagon and oxen.
Graaff Reinet, Moiuhuj 2SlJi. — I was not able to
leave Mr. Liesching's hospitable mansion till this
morning, the cart only making its appearance yesterday
afternoon. I have thus lost three whole days, which
have, however, been employed in writing many letters,
especially to friends at home, to whom under ordi-
nary circumstances I find it almost impossible to
write. Yesterday I held service twice in Mr. Lies-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 169
cliing's house. Some young persons in the neigh-
bourhood, knowing that I tv as there, came over. During
the day, I became very unwell, and passed the night in
much pain. Mr. Liesching was good enough to lend me
his cart, my own proceeding on the top of an ox wagon
to Graaff Reinet to be repaired. J find the English
round about this part of the country already speaking
with great distrust and uneasiness of our proposed new
constitution. They are, comparatively speaking, so few
in number that they are afraid to make their sentiments
known, and are already suffering some little degree of
oppression on the part of their more numerous neigh-
bours.
Tuesday 29th. — I consecrated the church this morn-
ing. There was a full congregation. The building has
cost nearly 1,600/. and is not yet quite finished. I think
it might have been completed for one-half the amount
in England. It will hold about 250 persons, and is very
neat and ecclesiastically correct. All are much delighted
with it ; but there is a debt of between 300/. and 400/.
still due upon it.
Wednesday SOtk. — I held a confirmation at three
o'clock. There were but a i'ew candidates, as I con-
firmed here six months since. One Avas a Roman-
catholic convert. I preached also, on the subject of
Missions, to a very respectable congregation.
31s/. — The whole day spent in writing letters, of which
1 put twenty-two, some of them very important ones,
into the post. 1 should have proceeded on my road to
Somerset, to-day, had my cart been finished. The
charges for these repairs, and for forage for my horses
in the present severe drought, are exorbitant. At the
three last villages I have paid upwards of 50/. for these
things. Indeed, so heavy are the expenses attendant
upon this long visitation, that the mere cost alone would
prevent me from repeating it.
The papers to-day have brought more fiivourable
170 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
news respectinjr the Kafirs. The Governor has had a
meeting of them at Kinp; William's Town, at which most
of the chiefs of the T'Slambie division (including my
friend, Umhalla,) attended. Of the Gaikas there were
fewer. Sandilli, the most powerful and disaffected of
them, was absent. The Governor questioned them
on the subject of war. They all declared they had
never thought of it, and were his children. He told
them that if a new war broke out, he would take their
lands from them, drive them over the Kei, and hand
them over to the tender mercies of Faku, and even
Panda. The Governor has, I believe, determined to
institute a searching inquiry into the causes of the late
commotions.
November Isf.— Left Graaff Reinet early this morning
for Somerset, Mr. Gray returning at the same time to
Cradock. At Graaff Reinet" the Church may now be
considered as established. When the debt upon the
church shall be nearly paid off, the parishioners will,
I trust, be able to do more towards the support of their
minister.
At Cradock our work is quite in its infancy, but
this being a rising town, I have but little doubt that
God's cause will prosper under the earnest ministry of
Mr. Gray. In no place, however, are the fruits of our
past neglect more visible. We have a small congrega-
tion which assembles in the Court-house; the Inde-
pendents have a chapel ; the Methodists have two, built
at a considerable cost, and by the aid, at least in some
degree, of Churchmen; the Dutch, of course, have a
church. It is generally understood that a certain
number of the Methodists contemplate a return to the
Church.
More would undoubtedly return had we a church
to fold them ; but they not unnaturally prefer a very
respectable chapel, to which they liave been long ac-
customed, to the uncomfortable, secular aspect of the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 171
Coui't-liouse, which is suggestive to them of anything
but pleasing associations.
Our road to Somerset lay along the foot of a I'ange of
mountains, and the country was more pleasing than
I had anticipated. I saw here, for the first time, the
spek-boom tree or shrub in full flower ; it had a very
pleasing appearance. The flower is of a delicate pink,
and reminds me more of the heliotrope than of any-
other. We arrived in Somerset on Saturday afternoon.
Had it not been for the kindness of Mr. Long, I should
have been without any food the last day, for we out-
spanned by an empty house, the farmer having, during
drought, taken his stock to the mountains. The re-
mains, however, of our yesterday's breakfast served to
sustain us till we reached Mr. Pain's house in Somerset,
where I soon obtained refreshment. I hear, as I travel
through the country, more and more of the wretched
state of the farmers through the increasing wholesale
robberies of their Kafir and Hottentot servants. One
Dutchman told me yesterday that he has lost 300 sheep
within the last fortnight, driven away, but he knew not
whither; another told me that he had lost a still larger
number. What is wanted seems to be an efficient rural
police, and, perhaps, a vagrant law. Of this latter,
however, I am more doubtful, as it may easily be per-
verted into an engine of great oppression to the coloured
races.
Sunday 3d. — Much gratified with the services of this
day. The congregations were good, and not, I am told,
much larger than usual. The Government school-room,
in which I officiated, was neatly fitted up, and every
thing was done decently and in order. I preached both
morning and evening. There were sixteen communi-
cants, and seven candidates for confirmation, whom I
addressed extempore at evening prayer.
November Ath. — Received visitors, and rode out to
Glen Avon, one of the most beautiful farms in all South
172 BISHOP OF CAPETO^VN'S
Africa. In the afternoon Mr. Pain Lad several members
of the Church to dine, and others ajjain to tea in the
evening. Somerset appears to me, on this occasion,
even more pleasing than on my last visitation. It is
beautifully situated at the foot of mountains abounding
in wooded kloofs and ravines, and the village has an air
of quiet, a peace and order about it, a\ Inch is very attrac-
tive. Mr. Pain's house is next door to the London
Society's Mission Chapel, and I was much gratified at
beholding a numerous and well-dressed congregation of
Hottentots and other coloured people attending it yes-
terday. It was humbling not to see one coloured person
at our service. God has been very long-suffering
towards our Church, considering how fearfully negligent
■we have been, not only of the heathen in this land, but
of our own people. It is marvellous that, after half a
centiu-y of neglect, such a field should still be open to
Its ; and that, as is, I believe, the case in this place, our
congregation should be larger on a Sunday than that of
other communions. God grant that we may redeem the
time, and make amends for past neglect and unconcern,
by redoubled diligence, zeal, and self-denial now. May
He vouchsafe in time to come, as hitherto, His bless-
ing upon our labours, and render us in our several sta-
tions and degrees fit agents for carrying on His work
in this land. If His presence go with us, we need fear
nothing.
November o/Ii. — This morning we had prayers in tlic
school-room, Mr. Pain reading the service appointed
for the day, which, however, I told him might be omitted
in the colonies. There were about eighteen persons
present, which is about the usual congregation at morn-
ing prayer on "Wednesdays and Fridays. At twelve
o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners in Mr. Pain's
house, the school-room not being at liberty. The two
questions for consideration were the continued support
of the Ministry, and the erection of the church. Towards
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 173
the former, the Civil Commissioner, acting as Treasurer
to the Church Committee, paid me 50/. 6s., being a
trifle more than the amount guaranteed ; and it appeared
that in addition to this the iveeldy offertory had averaged
11. a-week. With the parishioners' concurrence, I con-
sented to cancel the subscription hst, and to depend
altogether upon the offertory for carrying on onr work.
It was decided that on two Sundays in the month the
offerings should be for the support of the Ministry, and
generally on the other two Sundays towards the erection
of the Church ; — that once a quarter the offerings should
be for Missions, and occasionally for sick and aged
Clergy. It appeared that only 100/. had actually been
paid into the bank towards the erection of the church.
A fresh subscription was therefore opened for this special
object, and several gentlemen undertook to advance
500/. on loan, depending upon the offertory for the liqui-
dation of the debt. I promised to furnish them plans,
working drawings, and specifications, for a church to
hold 150, bnt capable of future enlargement, — the pro-
bable cost would be 1,000/. After business was over
I gave the parishioners an account of the present state
of the Diocese, and our proposed Mission work, in
which they appeared to take an interest. In the
evening I returned the calls of the parishionei'S. The
people in this village observe the fifth of November as
]ioisiiy as in England. There was a figure of Guy
Fawkes, with a lantern, paraded about the streets, tin
kettles, bonfires, ringing of bells, and shouting, till a
late hour,
November 6th. — Left Somerset after early prayers this
morning. I was glad to find we had again a nice con-
gregation. Mr. Pain and Mr. Brown accompanied me
part of the way. I was not allowed to depart without
a good supply of pat-koss, and other comforts provided
by the kindness of the parishioners. I quit Somerset
with much satisfaction. There is a good work, I be-
174 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
lieve, going on there, and Mr. and Mrs. Pain are both in
earnest. They are taking a few pupils, male and female.
The payments from the parents for their education are
to be appropriated to the erection of the church. There
has been some little opposition shown by the Dutch
minister here, which has only tended to knit together
in closer bonds the members of the Church. It will not
be long, I trust, before a neat little church, in one of
the prettiest parts of this very pretty village, will be
erected to gladden the hearts of not a few earnest and
devout members of our communion.
Slept at the foot of the Zuurberg. My chamber was
a shop filled with all sorts of goods, I had but little
rest, in consequence of the incessant assaults of the too
frequent companions of a night spent in a farmer's
house. I was glad to hear from the farmer here that
he had lost no sheep by stealing, — and that he had with
him Fingo herds who had been in his service several
years. He seemed disposed to think that the thefts
and loss of sheep, so very generally complained of, arose
in no small degree from motives of revenge : that the
servants are frequently unfairly defrauded of their
wages, under plea of making up losses, and that they
are occasionally beaten very severely, and tied to the
wagon wheel for that purpose. A Graham's Town
paper, which I have seen to-day, announces that Sir H,
Smith has deposed Sandilli, the most powerful chief in
British Kafifraria. He refused, when summoned, to
attend the meeting at King William's Town ; and is
generally understood to have been the chief instigator
of the Kafirs at the present time to war. What the
next move will be, God only knows. Matters are in a
very critical state.
November 7lh. — Off at daybreak. The horses m ere
unable to drag the cart up one very steep and stony
pitch, in ascending the Zuurberg range. Even after
unloading the cart, it required much exertion and flog-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 175
ging to get tliera up it. I took my usual post at the
head of the leaders, but -when we got well off, could not
keep up with them, and was trod upon. By our joint
efforts we afterwards brought the luggage up. On these
occasions I am sometimes much amused at thinking
how people would stare in England at seeing a bishop
in his shirt sleeves, with a box or bag on his back,
ascending an African mountain. We arrived about 10
o'clock, by a very difficult road, at the first convict sta-
tion. The religious teacher, or late missionary of the
Berlin Society, kindly provided refreshment for myself
and horses. After breakfast I inspected the station. In
the three stations on this mountain there are 350 con-
victs. Of these about 40 are English ; nO are Kafirs ;
the remainder are chiefly Hottentots and people of
Dutch extraction. The Kafirs all work in irons in the
chain-gang. This is said to be necessary in consequence
of their determined efforts to escape, and their proximity
to their own country. There were several in hospital,
chiefly with chicken-pox. I spoke for about half an
hour on religious subjects with several Englishmen
Avhom I found in confinement. The road, when finished,
Avill be a fine piece of workmanship. It is one of Mr.
Montague's great roads, which are of such vast import-
ance to this colony. It is well engineered through
a very difficult country. The southern side is nearly
finished ; the northern hardly begun, but it m ill be
finished, I believe, in less than a year. The object of
this road is to open out the interior to the sea. It will
be the direct route to the sovereignty, and the whole of
the north, through Cradock, and perhaps Somerset.
The descent is very fine. It commands most extensive
views, and the mountains on each side are both precipi-
tous and clothed with forest. The afternoon was de-
lightfully cool. I do not know when I have enjoyed a
drive so much. We slept at Commando Kraal, Sunday's
River, having accomplished about fifty miles.
176 BISHOP OF Capetown's
Novemher SUi. — Arrived about two o'clock at Uitcn-
hago. I am, during my stay here, the guest of Mr.
Cbase, the Civil Commissioner. Received a few visitors,
and inspected a site which has been bought for the
church, and which is not approved of by many. Un-
happily I fear the state of the church in this parish is
no better than when I was here two years since.
November 9/h. — Visitors, correspondence, business
with the church-wardens, &c. occupied the greater part
of the day.
November lO/h. — Our services this day were held in
the court-house. I preached both morning and evening.
There were twenty communicants in the morning, and I
confirmed nine candidates in the evening.
November llf/i. — Returned calls, and prepared for a
public meeting of the parishioners of which I had given
notice for this evening.
. In the evening xs e had our meeting, which lasted two
hours. It was decided almost unanimously that the
church should be erected on the site originally granted
by Government, and not upon that which the Church
Building Committee had purchased a short time since
for 80/. It was also decided that the church should
contain 150 sittings; and I undertook to have plans
prepared. There appeared to be about .500/. to be de-
pended upon, and it was arranged that the new Building
Committee, which was appointed at this meeting, should
Ciinvass the parish for additional subscriptions. A me-
morial was addressed to (Jovernment lor an extension
of the site formerly granted, and for sites for .school
and parsonage. I trust that the dissensions upon these
points, which have now lasted for a period of three
years, will at length be brought to a close, and that the
church will be proceeded with.
November \2lk. — Business .and correspondence in the
morning. The accounts from the frontier are some-
what more encourairing. The governor has left King
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 177
William's Town, and is in Graham's Town, He has
had another meeting of the Gaika chiefs. He allows San-
dilli to live with his mother, Sutu, who is to be respon-
sible for his conduct. But he is no longer to be a chief.
Time only will show whether the Governor's word alone,
can induce the 14,000 followers of this chief to withdraw
their allegiance from him, and to transfer it to the com-
missioner. The frontier people do not seem satisfied ;
but I think they are unreasonable, and will not be satis-
fied without the deposition of all the chiefs, which would
be most unjust upon principle, and undoubtedly lead to
another war, A note from my dear brother, the arch-
deacon, informed me that he had started on foot for
liloemfontein, being anxious to visit it, and to return
home by Christmas, His route will be by Cradock,
Colesberg, Bloemfontein, Caledon River, Aliwal, Burgh-
ersdorp, Whittlesea, Shiloh, Fort Beaufort, and so
home. If he is able to accomplish this he will have
traversed at least 800 miles in about six weeks. This
journey will not be accomplished without much difficulty,
and I fear, some danger. The Boers not uufrequently shut
their doors in his face, telling him he is a "bandit" or
convict. Sometimes he has had, in consequence, but
mean fare, and has, I fear, at times been in actual want;
but nothing can damp his indomitable energy, or break
his heroic spirit. He is cheerful in the midst of every
trial and hardship that he is called to endure. Well
may all love him, and admire his great self-denial and
zeal.
Left Uitenhage (Nov. 12) about two o'clock for Port
Elizabeth, and arrived at Mr. McCleland's about half-
past five.
November 16///.— On Wednesday evening we had ser-
vice in church. I preached to a very respectable con-
gregation. On that day also I met the committee for
the collection of subscriptions towards a new church.
It appeared that upwards of 500/. had been pledged, and
N
178 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
tbat, when the whole town sliiill have been canvassed,
GOO/, may be depended upon. We were not able to fix.
upon a plan. On Thursday I held a confirmation, when
twenty-one young persons were received into full com-
munion with the Church. On P^riday evening we had ser-
vice also in the church, when I preached again, to a large
congregation for a week-day, though I was so hoarse
from a severe cold as almost to be unable to speak.
On Saturday I attended another meeting of the
Church Building Committee, when we decided upon the
outline of a plan, for which I Avas to furnish a design
and working drawings. Called on several of the parish-
ioners.
Sunday, Mlh. — The congregations to-day were very
large ; indeed some were obliged to go away for want of
room ; I Avas sorry to see some of the soldiers leaving
on this account. As the congregation consisted almost
exclusively of church people, it shows how much an
additional church is required. There were about fifty
communicants. The collection to-Jay was appropriated
to the support of the ministry. In the afternoon I at-
tended the funeral of one of the most respectable mem-
bers of the church in this town. In the evening I con-
firmed eight additional candidates, who had not been
able to present themselves at the previous confirmation.
I have been very unwell all day, and have got through
the services with difficulty.
Nocembcr \^th. — It is with much satisfaction that I turn
my face homewards again. I have still a journey of
about 700 miles before me, but I shall be shortening the
distance daily. My energies, after nearly eight months'
incessant labour, are beginning to flag. The Governor
is expected at Port Elizabeth, I believe, to-day, on his
way back l)y sea to Capetown. I regret that I cannot
remain to see him ; but a day's delay would disturb all
my arrangements. I slept this evening on the banks of
the Gamtoos River, Part of our journey lay along the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 179
sea-coast. The sight of the sea always gives me plea-
sure, though in this land it is not unmixed with sadness,
for it recalls recollections of the past. There is a satis-
faction, however, in merely Avatching the avrjpi6fxov ye-
}^aa-fia KHfiarav, and this satisfaction I have enjoyed
to-day. In the evening I had a good deal of conversa-
tion with my host, who was an Englishman, about the
Missionary Institution at Hankey, which I was anxious
to have visited, but I could not do so without interfering
with my engagements.
Tuesday, i.9(h. — Slept at the house of Mr. Mackintosh,
who is living upon the farm of his relative, Captain
Boys. I spent a few hours two years ago with these
pleasing families, who are members of the Church. As
they did not lie in the direct road, I had not intended
to visit them this time, having a very heavy week's
journey before me. Mrs. Mackintosh, however, wrote
to express her regret that I did not, and I therefore
changed my plan. In the evening I held Divine Service,
preaching extempore. I baptized also three children.
I had a good deal of conversation with Captain Boys
about Hankey, which, he told me, Mr. Phillip, the
Missionary, was very anxious that I should visit. I
■was very glad to hear a very different account of the
Institution from what Mr. had given me. Captain
Boys informed me that it was in a highly satisfactory
condition ; that, so far as the improvement and civiliza-
tion of the people were concerned, there was a real
work going on ; that, as a magistrate, he could afBrm
that the amount of crime for so large a population,
upwards of 3,000, was very small ; that bad characters
were dismissed ; and that the Institution was, in his
judgment, doing as much good as any that he had seen.
There is no doubt that Captain Boys' opinion, as a man
of education, a gentleman, and a magistrate, and living
in the immediate neighbourhood, ought to have very
great weight.
180 BISHOP OF CAPET0\\'N'S
November 20ih. — Started early. The weather is singularly
cold for this season of the year ; I have been sitting all
day in the cart with my great-coat on, and a horse-cloth
round my legs. Outspanncd at a Dutch fanner's, where
I slept two years ago. I found his children all talking
English, having an English tutor. There was another
Englishman there, who expressed great disappointment
at finding I had left Uitenhage and the Bay without his
knowing of my being there. He told me a Dutch farmer
in the neighbourhood had promised to let him know.
He had meant to ride in from a distance of seventy
miles, and to present himself for confirmation. I would
have confirmed him on the spot if I had had time, as he
seemed much in earnest. He did not, however, open
his heart to me till I was going away, and I could not
then, without breaking engagements, remain to examine
and confirm him. I could only therefore tell him to put
himself in communication with Mr. McCleland at Port
Elizabeth. I find there are a good many English scat-
tered amongst the farms in this district. It would be
very desirable if I could appoint a clergyman to itinerate
through the Lange Kloof, between George and Uiten-
hage, a rich and flourishing district, 200 miles in length,
but without any minister for the white population. The
new village of Human 's-dorp, where the Dutch are just
finishing a church, but for which they can find no minis-
ter, though Government have, I believe, promised a
stipend, might form an excellent station for a monthly
service. The whole country is looking quite green and
fresh after the late rains. Arrived somewhat late at the
house of Dr. Buchan.
November 2\st. — Off again a little after six o'clock. It
rained in torrents the v> hole day, and the tops of the
mountains were covered with snow. Just before arriving
at a house where I slept on my last visitation, my cart
and horses sunk in a complete bog of mud in the very
middle of the road. In a miiuite four horses were fioun-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 181
dering, and totally incapable of extricating themselves.
After getting almost bogged myself in endeavouring to
relieve them, I left the cart and horses with the men,
and ran to the farm for assistance. This was most
cheerfully rendered; nearly a dozen men, including
some travellers, returned with me. They speedily re-
leased the horses from their comfortless bed, and drew
the cart out of its difficulties, taking it all the way to
the house. I found that this family instantly recollected
me ; I had given them all Prayer-books on my last
visitation, and heard them read. They received me
very kindly. Mr. Welby sometimes comes down as far
as this, and Dr. Andrews, who can officiate in Dutch,
has occasionally held services here. The people are
anxious to know when he wiU come again, and ask if he
cannot come oftener.
November 22d. — Another very cold and wet day. I had
calculated upon enjoying much my drive up the Lange
Kloof, which is a part of the colony that I like ; but the
substitution of an English winter for an African summer
is enough to mar all enjoyment. We slept at Van Roy's,
a farmer who, on my first visitation, supplied me very
kindly with horses free of all expense. I found that
since that time he had considerably altered, and Angli-
cised his house. The great hall, which occupies so con-
siderable a portion of a Dutch farm-house, was divided
into two good rooms. There was a third sitting-room,
with round table and fire-place, the first, I think, that
I have seen in any farm in the country, and in which we
had a good fire of wood. I found here an Englishman,
formerly a Roman Catholic, but whom I confirmed in
my first visitation, keeping school at this place, and as
zealous as ever. I thanked him for an erf which he
had given since 1 last saw him to the Church at Blanco.
He told me that the Dutch show a great unwillingness
to have their children taught English ; that they say
there will be no need of it now that they are to have
182 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
a representative government, that henceforth all viill be
Dutch.
Saturday, 23d. — A fine day, and a delightful drive
of three hours to Mr. Richardson's. As usual, I arrived
before I was expected, and before Mr. Welby from
George, who had been detained by the river. He came
about eleven o'clock, and we had much interesting .ind
important conversation. Mr. and Mrs. Henery were
both far from well. They are, I hope, doing much good
here. In the evening I examined the night school, and
found it in a satisfactory state. Sat up late writing
letters.
Schoonherg, November 2ith. — The services of this day
have been full of interest. There was Sunday-school
ill the morning ; it consisted chiefly of coloured people.
At the morning service eighty-five were present ; there
were fifteen communicants ; I preached extempore. In
the afternoon there was a large congregation ; eight
were confirmed, five of whom were people of colour.
I both addressed the candidates and preached. This
may be considered at present as one of our most direct
missionary posts in the diocese. It shows, I trust,
some signs of future promise ; already several who were
heathens have been baptized and confirmed, and have
become communicants. I grieve to say there is much
difficulty in keeping up the work, from lack of means.
Mr. Richardson is anxious to proceed as soon as
possible with the erection of the church. He has given
four acres of land, and offers 100/. towards the building.
There will be some dilliculty, I fear, in raising the
necessary funds. Money is not plentiful, and almost
everv village in the colony is exerting itself in behalf of
its own church.
November 25th. — Rode over the Devil's Kop this
morning in company with Mr. Welby, my cart proceed-
ing by the direct road to George, to await my arrival
there next week. A thick cloud was on the top of the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1 8'iO. 183
mountain, which effectually prevented my enjoying the
very fine views which, I am told, present themselves on
every side. As we descended the mountain, however,
and got under the cloud, we were enabled to get a view
of the sea, the lakes, the forest, and the nearer moun-
tains, and gradually the weather cleared up so as to
allow us fully to appreciate the beauty of the prospect
before us. We did not reach Mr, Dumbleton's till past
ten o'clock, though we started a quarter before six, the
road over the mountain being very rocky and precipit-
ous. Wagons still continue to pass over this mountain
with loads of wood from the forests beneath. How
they manage I know not. I am sure it would have been
pronounced impossible by anj^ one who had not seen
what a South African ox-wagon can do, and where it can
go. After resting an hour for breakfast at Mr. Dum-
bleton's, I rode on with him through the beautiful
Knysna country, which I have so often before admired,
to Meding's, he having provided me with fresh horses,
and leading one which carried my saddle-bags. At
Meding's we found that our relays had not arrived.
After off-saddling, therefore, for a time, we proceeded
towards Mr. Currey's ; but just as we had mounted the
hill, ive met Mr. Duthie, Mr. E. Rex, and Mr. Andrews,
with fresh horses. We therefore returned, and, having
removed our bags, proceeded rapidly to Belvidere, where
we arrived a little after sunset, having had a most de-
lightful ride of about ten hours. After having seen
nearly all South Africa, I am still of opinion that the
Knysna district is, perhaps, the most lovely of the
whole. The only country to be compared with it is
that in the immediate neighbourhood of D'Urban, Port
Natal ; but I do not think it, beautiful as it is with its
tropical plants, &c., quite equal to this. I remained for
the night at Mr. Duthie's.
November 26th. — This morning I rode after breakfast
to call upon Mr, and Mrs. Barrington, at Portland.
184 BISHOP OF Capetown's
I knew that if I did not go this morning I should pro-
bably not see them at all. On our way back to Melville
I was met by a large party of gentlemen on horseback
from that village. RIy arrival in the village was
honoured with a salute of one gun, and with Hying of
flags. I rode up immediately to the church, which is
about half built. I am happy to say that a very fine
stone has been found close at hand in time to use it for
the quoins, buttresses, and windows, for which the stone
of which the walls are built would not have done. The
church is a decorated building, copied from an ancient
English church, and is intended to be the chancel of a
larger edifice. I slept at Mr. Andrews', and passed a
quiet evening, a portion of which was spent in talking
over with the mason the working drawings of the plans
of a proposed plain Norman church at Belvidere; and
in endeavouring to convince an earnest and respectable
Irvingite that he ought to conform to the Church. He
thought so, too ; his only scruple was about a double
confirmation, having been already confirmed by " the
Apostles." He determined to refer the matter to
them.
November 27th. — Started at seven o'clock this morn-
ing for Plettenburg Bay. We called in our way at
several houses, and reached Mr. Bull's, the catechist
here, after a ride of about twenty-seven miles, at one
o'clock. Just as we arrived at the Residency, a party of
twenty newly baptized coloured people, quite of their
own accord, came out to meet me. They sang a hymn,
and then welcomed me to the Bay. I was the more
pleased with this, because neither Mr. nor Mrs. Bull
knew of their intention. After a few minutes' rest I
began an examination, first of the candidates for con-
firmation, and next of the catechumens, Mr. Andrews
assisting in the Dutch parts. Some seemed to feel a
good deal ; but I had not sufficient time to carry on
individual examinations to any great extent, for our
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 1S5
service began a little after three o'clock ; ^Yllell eighteen
adults were baptized and nineteen infants, and twelve
persons were confirmed ; the congregation consisting of
nearly eighty. The whole were coloured people except
two emigrant girls, who were confirmed, and these have
all been instructed in the faith, and prepared for admis-
sion into the fold of Christ, and to full communion, by
Mr. Bull, who has laboured very diligently and earnestly
•v.mongst them. It is only a few months since nine
adults and ten infants, from amongst the heathen, were
baptized in the same place by Mr. Welby, the Rural
Dean. A portion of the service was conducted in
Dutch by Mr. Andrews. Several of the candidates for
confirmation were deeply impressed, and all seemed to
feel the solemnity of the occasion. I addressed them as
simply and plainly as I could in English, and most of
them, if I may judge from their countenances, vmder-
stood at least the greater part of what I said to them.
The service lasted so long that I did not preach as I
had intended, fearing that I should weary them. One
old woman of ninety years of age, who was confirmed,
told Mr. Andrews how she first came to know some of
the great truths of religion. Her first conception of the
being of a God arose from the following circumstances.
She was a slave ; when, walking out with her mistress
one fine night, the latter asked her if she knew who
made the stars and the moon. She replied, "Yes, the
white man." Upon her mistress telling her that it was
a far greater Being than man, who lived in the heavens,
and who was called God, she was deeply impressed, and
from that hour believed in God. Some time after, her
instructor had great difficulty in making her understand
the nature of the Crucifixion, and the doctrine of the
Atonement. She understood, however, and realized the
■whole, on being shown a picture of the Saviour on the
Cross. This happened some years ago. Upon these
two great truths of natural and revealed religion, she
186 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
had fed, until she liad an opportunity of heing further
instructed in the Christian faith. She was one of those
baptized a few months since. Her case serves to show
that pictures, carefully and cautiously used, may be
of much service in the instruction of the Heathen.
Mr. Bull had several of the parishioners to meet me
in the evening.
November 2St/i.—I left the Residency this morning
early, on foot, with Mr. Bull. We walked by the coast,
and enjoyed much the view of this beautiful bay, with
its fine range of mountains in the rear. We took an
early breakfast with Mr. Sinclair, and then rode to Red-
bourne, where I held service at ten o'clock. Here the
congregation, which was between thirty and forty, con-
sisted entirely of English emigrants. I preached to
them extempore. Several of their children were bap-
tized. This village has been much increased since
I was here, two years ago. The population, however,
will probably never be very large. As the funds for the
erection of a stone church are not yet sufficient, Mr.
Newdigate is building, at his sole cost, a wooden church,
which will serve for a few years ; and, ^hen the church
shall be built, can be afterwards used for a school. He
has agreed to transfer it immediately to the See. Un-
fortunately it came on to rain heavily while we were
here, and, in spite of a thick coat which Mr. Newdigate
lent me, I had a cold and wet ride to Melville. I slept
this evening at Mr, Sutherland's, who had invited seve-
ral of the parishioners to meet me.
Novemher 2^th. — We had a meeting this morning at
eleven o'clock in the school-room at Melville, to take
into consideration the affairs of the church. It appeared
that at least 150/. were still wanting to complete the
building now in the course of erection. Six gentlemen
undertook to raise the money by loan. On examining
the parish accounts, I found that the weekly offerings
fell far short of what thev oujrht to be, and what they
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 187
are in otter places. This, I thinlc, can only be accounted
for by the majority of the people, who are recent emi-
grants, not understanding that our whole Church work
very materially depends upon the free-will offerings of
the people. I pressed upon the gentlemen present the
importance of making this fact generally known. An
address was presented to me at this meeting by the
parishioners, congratulating me on my safe arrival at
this place after the difficulties and dangers of so long a
visitation, expressing their interest in the countries
beyond the frontier, their hope that the Church might
be able to undertake a work there, and the gratification
they felt in hearing that a Mission was about to be com-
menced in British Kaffraria. In the afternoon I ex-
amined the children in the school, which has only lately
been commenced. In the evening, Mr. Andrews had
the churchwardens and sidesmen to dinner. It was not
till late that four wagons full of coloured people arrived
for the services of to-morrow and Sunday. Had they
come earlier, I was to have examined the candidates for
baptism and confirmation. They outspanued on the
green in front of Mr. Andrews' house, and soon lighted
their fires and made themselves comfortable. I under-
stand there are seventy souls in all.
November 'iWi. — I began this day with an examination
of the candidates for baptism, which lasted about two
hours. With several of these I was very much pleased.
They seemed quite in earnest, and Avere well instructed
in the faith. They appeared fully to understand the
nature of the step they were about to take, the privi-
leges of which they were to be made partakers, and the
increased responsibilities they were about to incur.
One only did I think insufficiently prepared, and re-
quiring to have his baptism postponed. At eleven
o'clock our service began. I understood there were
upwards of one hundred present, a large proportion of
whom were coloured people. I baptized fifteen Hot-
188 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
tentot, Fingo, and Mozambique adults. I confirmed seven,
three of whom were Europeans. I addressed the candi-
dates as simply and plainly as I could for half an hour.
The services were partly in Dutch and partly in English.
After service I called upon a few of the parishioners, and
then rode out to tiffin at " The New Place," where were
assembled the chief members of the Rex family.
Sunday, December \st. — We had very large congrega-
tions this day in our temporary place of worship.
Indeed, there was not room for them all. There could
not be less than 150 persons at each service. In the
morning the communicants were forty-six. In the after-
noon, about twenty children, chiefly belonging to the
recently baptized converts, were admitted into the fold
of Christ. I preached at both services. In the evening
I returned with Mr. Duthie in his boat to Belvidere.
The tide, however, being low, and the night dark, we
grounded several times, and were between three and
four hours crossing the lake. We did not get shelter
till ten o'clock. Next morning I started on horseback
■with Mr. and Mrs. Andrews for George. We were ac-
companied part of the way by Mr. Duthie and Mr.
Newdigate. The day being fine, we enjoyed much this
beautiful ride. We reached George before seven o'clock.
At the Zwart River, Mr. Welby, accompanied by the
Rev. H. Cadnall, my chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Baker, and
Mr. Dreyer, the churchwarden, met us. I have been
much interested with my visit to the Knysna ; great
progress has been made during the past year, especially
with the coloured people. The churches are i-ising up,
and the congregations are good. Up to this time no
other body of Christians has been at work in this field.
The Church is at present in undisturbed possession of
the ground, and is, I trust, doing her work faithfully.
All that is required to give permanence and solidity to
our system there is a somewhat increased scale of con-
tributions towards the support of the ministry. I am
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 189
not sorry to find myself once more under the hospitable
roof of Mr. Welby.
December ^d. — I spent the morning in writing letters
and receiving visitors. Before breakfast I went out
with Mr. Welby to inspect the new church, which is to
be consecrated on Saturday. It is a well-built Eng-
lish structure. The cost has been 1,200/., and it has
been with great difficulty that the necessary funds
have been raised. Considering the poverty of our
people, the inferiority of colonial workmen, and the
scarcity of good stone, this church is, I think, a credit
to the diocese. It is delightful to see our old English
churches repeated in this land. I am glad to find that
it is generally admired and appreciated; for this en-
courages me to persevere in my efforts to get correct
churches built. It requires, indeed, much patience to
combat the prejudices, and to endeavour to elevate the
tastes, of church builders in South Africa. Very many
have not a conception beyond the ordinary shapeless
brick building, plastered and whitewashed. As yet,
however, I am happy to say, no incorrect building has
been commenced, though the inferiority of our materials
and workmanship would make one shrink from seeing
them subjected to a very critical eye.
December Mh. — Examination of candidates for Orders,
letter writing, receiving visitors, and returning visits.
We have evening service with sermon in the Dutch
Church, every day this week. The clergy take it in
turn to preach.
December ^tli. — Letter writing; examination of candi-
dates. Since I have been here, I have had an applica-
tion from Mr. Niepoth, voor-lezer of the Dutch Church,
and missionary to the heathen, to be received into the
communion of the English Church. Mr. Niepoth in-
forms me that he has been for eleven years teacher of
the coloured people, that he has a congregation of 300
souls, that he has long been dissatisfied with his own
190 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
Church, believes in episcopacy, and approves highly of
our services. He states his ground of dissatisfaction
■with the Dutch Church to be their neglect of the
coloured people, and their unwillingness to admit them
to Church privileges. They are not allowed to commu-
nicate with the white people, or to be confirmed at the
same time; many of their children remain unbaptized,
and they arc refused burial in the Dutch Church ground.
This application has been totally vuiexpected both by
Mr. Welby and myself. Upon Mr. Niepoth's first an-
nouncement of his desire, I declined giving any answer,
and informed him that I must take time to consider the
course which I might feel it right to pursue. Before
seeing him again, I have made full inquiries both of
Mr. Welby and others, as to Mr. Niepoth's character
and usefulness, and have had such satisfactory replies
to my queries, and such willing testimony to his zeal
and piety, from various quarters, that I have informed
Mr. Niepoth that, if he seeks communion with the
Church, I shall not feel at liberty to repel him, and that
I shall be prepared to sanction his continuance in the
office of Instructor to the Heathen. It appears that
Mr. Niepoth has had doubts in bis mind for some time,
and resolved not to allow me to leave the place without
stating his views and wishes to me. His congregation,
he tells me, are equally desirous with himself to be re-
ceived into the communion of the Church, and have
been urging the matter upon him.'
(1) Within a few days of Mr. Niepoth's reception into tlie communion
of the Church, 100 of his congregation, already baptized, applied to be
allowed to sign our Declaration of Jlembership : " I do declare that I am
a member of the Church in tlie Diocese of Capetown, in communion with
the United Church of England and Ireland, and that I will conform to
the doctrine and discipline of the said Church." Besides these, there
are about 200 catechumens and children under instruction. Our new
church is already nearly full : and the services of the coloured people are
in Dutch. I have authorized the use of a selcctioii'dtoin the Liturgy.
There is no authority for this. Convocation alone could sanction it. As
oar missions extend, the question of religious services becomes im-
I
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 191
December ^tli. — The greater part of the day has been
occupied with a vica voce examination of the candidates
for Orders. I have been able to accept of them all.
The Rev. W. Andrews and the Rev. J. Baker will be
admitted to the order of priests, and Mr. Henrey to that
of deacon. The latter will have no licence to preach,
but will read homilies. It is my intention to have a
non-preaching body of deacons in this diocese, and to
keep the order as much as possible to the duties pre-
scribed for it in the Ordinal. The examination for
deacons' orders is consequently a very diflerent one
from that required for priests. There is nothing to pre-
vent a deacon being advanced to the priesthood, if his
qualification should prove sufficient ; but in many cases
men admitted to the diaconate, will, in all probabilitj'^,
not be able to pass the examination for the higher
degree in the ministry of Christ. This evening we had
a very large congregation in the Dutch church. Being
the last time that the building will be used by us;
many of the Dutch came to the service. Mr. Welby
preached a very impressive sermon, and expressed for
himself and his congregation, very feelingly, the obliga-
tions they had been under to the Dutch community.
Saturday, Dec. 7th. — This morning our new church was
consecrated. It was crowded to excess, there being 250
present in a building calculated to contain only 200. The
whole service was a highly devotional one, a great por-
tion of the congregation kneeling, and making the
responses very audibly. The singing too was very
good, the congregation joining in it. The churchyard,
which, in this instance, is around the church, was also
consecrated. In the afternoon we had prayers at three
o'clock, after which I instituted Mr. Welby to the Arch-
deaconry of George. This Archdeaconry will consist
portant. The uneducated natives would be quite incapable of appre-
ciating our vfhole service. A selection like that which the Methodists
use in their missions in this diocese is best suited to new converts.
I
192 BISHOP OF CAPETOW-N's
of tlie districts of George, Swellendam, and Beaufort;
and include the parishes of the Knysna, Plettenburg
Bay, Beaufort, Riversdale, Swellendam, Mossel Bay,
Schoonbergr, &c. ; but Avork is opening out so rapidly
here, that I felt it right to erect this central part of
the colony into an Archdeaconry, and I am very fortu-
nate in being able to appoint one so qualified in every
way for the office as Mr. Welby has proved himself to
be. The archdeaconry still is, in point of extent, equal
to several European dioceses. Mr. Welby hopes to be
able to make arrangements with a clergyman who is
coming out from England to act as his assistant, and to
take charge of the parish uhile he is absent on visita-
tion, which in his case will probably be several times
a-year.
In the evening I had a meeting of the parishioners
in the public offices, Mr. Welby having expressed a
desire that I should meet the lay members of the
Church, in this the only possible way, during my stay.
I readily consented to do so; being anxious that the
Church at large should regard the Bishop as havinir a
direct relation to them, and not merely as the overseer
of the Clergy, and being desirous of interesting all in
the work of the Church throughout the diocese. I there-
fore gave them some account of the state and progress
of our work from St. Helena to Natal.
On this occasion the parishioners presented the fol-
lowing address, which I insert here, because it was got
up entirely by the laity without the knowledge of their
pastor, and is, I think, full of promise, as sho\ving that
there exists a deeper interest in things spiritual than
would probably have been felt a year ago, and provin"-
that the parishioners here at least are beginning to feel,
with relation to other portions of the diocese, that they
are members of the same body ; — if one member suffer,
all suffering with it; or, if one be honoured, all rejoicin'^
with it. It contains also, which to me is the most
VISITATION JOURXAL, 1S50. "19'3
cbeering part of the whole, the recognition of ourduty
as a Church towards the heathen, and expresses a de-
sire to see the work begun.
" To THE Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of
Capetown : —
" We, the undersigned members of the English Church,
beg to congratulate your Lordship on your safe arrival
at George, after a very toilsome journey to the most
distant parts of this extensive diocese. We are thank-
ful to be enabled to state that, since your Lordship's
last visitation, a goodly edifice has been erected for
Divine worship, in which we, and our posterity for ages
to come, may hear the joyful sounds of the Gospel;
and, while we duly appreciate the inestimable privilege
thus afforded to us, we think it our duty to tender to
your Lordship the sincere expression of our gratitude
for the great interest you have shov.n in our spiritual
welfare, and for the seasonable assistance you have af-
forded us towards completing the House of God.
" In whatever direction we turn, we see churches in
the course of erection, and pious ministers dispensing
the ordinances of religion, signs which lead us to hope
that the branch of the Church of Christ to which we
belong is taking deep root in the land, and that our
hitherto neglected brethren and countrymen, who have
been so long scattered throughout this wide-spread
territory, as sheep without a shepherd, are now, blessed
be God, being gathered within the fold. For them, and
for ourselves, we see a lively interest, and an earnest
zeal, manifested by your Lordship, in a degree which
we could hardly expect in a diocese so remote from our
father-land ; and which prompts us to hope and pray
tliat your Lordship may be long spared to labour in
this portion of the vineyard, to extend the Redeemer's
kingdom far and wide over the dark continent, that
' Ethiopia may soon stretch out her hands unto God.'
o
194 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
" We trust that your Lordship may be blessed with
health and strength of body, with vigour of mind,
and with a large measure of the Divine grace to sup-
port you, comfort you, and direct you, in the discharge
of the duties of your high office, to the honour and
glory of God, and the good of souls."
The Address was signed by upwards of fifty members
of the congregation.
Sunday, Dec. 8//1. — This day I ordained two priests
and a deacon, the Archdeacon and the Rev. II. Badnall
assisting. I preached on the occasion ; the congregation
was very large ; the communicants were about thirty-
five in number : the offerings on this day and yesterday
amounted to about ,31/. After evening prayer, I con-
firmed eighteen candidates, who were all very serious
in their deportment. The Archdeacon said they were
the most satisfactory set of candidates he had ever pre-
sented. Amongst them, as amongst the communicants,
there were several coloured people. One poor black
boy had Avalked from Mossel Bay, near forty miles, to
be confirmed. When residing about fifteen miles from
this town, he had walked in every Sunday morning to
attend the Archdeacon's Sunday-school, and had, after
long preparation, been baptized by him. Another of
our candidates was a convert from Romanism. I ad-
dressed them for some time in a plain manner. The
congregation was again very large. I preached on the
subject of missions. In the course of the day I looked
into the Sunday-school, and was glad to find it much
increased, and the white and coloured children taught in
the same class. There w ere nearly sixty present.
December dlli. — We had morning prayer at seven
o'clock; and a congregation of between sixty and seventy.
We had full service in the evening, when jMr. Badnall
preached. There was again an excellent congregation.
The ne\\s from the frontier becomes more alarming.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 195
Sir H. Smith, who had returned to Capetown, having
terrified, as he had imagined, the Kafirs, has again
sailed for East London in H. M. Steamer, Hermes,
accompanied by 400 men of the 73d regiment from
Capetown, and some artillery. God grant that we may
yet be spared another war. This land, however, has of
late done much to provoke, and is apparently now en-
during, His judgments. In the Eastern Province during
this year there has been almost a plague of locusts.
Farmers have told me that for very many years there
have not been seen so many. Then there has been a
drought more severe than has been known for years,
so that the cattle have perished, and the fruits of the
earth been destroyed. In the west, during the same
period, there has been almost a deluge of rain ; and now
the fearful scourge of rust is threatening the crops of
wheat throughout the country. The depredations on
the part of servants and others on the sheep farmers
have been on a larger scale, and under more irritating
circumstances than ever; and now there is every pro-
spect of another fearful war with a savage people, who,
if permitted to burst into the colony, will probably in a
few days sweep off the herds and flocks of the colonists,
and lay waste the whole country, burning the houses,
and destroying the defenceless people. Would that the
people of the land did but recognise God's chastening
hand, and humble themselves before him for their sins.
In the afternoon I drove out to the new and rising
village of Blanco, to inspect some pieces of land which
have been given by private individuals to the Church.
The Archdeacon has held a monthly service here, and
has a congregation of about forty. He contemplates
erecting a little oratory, or chancel of a future church,
towards which about 100/. have been already con-
tributed.
'Tuesday, lOth. — My visitation at George has been
full of interest. Great progress has been made in many
196 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
ways during the past year. The parishioners take an
increasing interest in the Church's work; and there is,
I trust, a gradual growth in grace and holiness, at least
in some. I was much pleased with the demeanour of
all who on this occasion publicly confessed Christ before
men, and with the interest taken in them, and especially
in the coloured candidates, by the older members of the
Church. There is evidently a good work going on in
this parish in the souls of the people, and, indeed, it
could scarce be otherwise under the ministry of such a
man as the Archdeacon, who is singularly endowed with
gifts and graces for the work to which he is called.
We left after breakfast for Riversdale. Mr. Badnall
accompanied me in my cart, and I was glad once more,
after so long a separation, to have free and uni-estrained
intercourse with him. "We slept at Jan Meyer's, one of
the most wealthy and intelligent Dutch farmers in the
country. He had twice before invited me to come and
stay Avith him. Next morning he furnished me with a
fresh span of horses for an hour or two, while mine were
driven forward. After a long day's journey through a
country I have passed over several times and have
described before, we reached Riversdale. I took up my
quarters with Mr. Hudson, but dined with my excellent
friend. Captain Rainier, the magistrate of the place, who
holds service twice every Sunday for the English con-
gi-egation, of whom there are upwards of sixty.
Thursdai/, \2th. — Visited some of the villagers in the
morning, and examined three candidates, whom Captain
Rainier had been preparing for confirmation. I lound
them all well instructed, and apparently much in earnest.
After an early dinner we went with Mr. Borcherds, the
amiable Dutch minister, to inspect a site which he lias
ollered to give for an English church. We had service
at seven o'clock in the evening. There was one child
for baptism; three were confirmed. I addressed the
candidates, and also preached. Our service lasted till
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 197
past nine o'clock, and there were upwards of fifty pre-
sent. We ought to have a clergyman here, but, imless
my funds become greatly increased, I see no prospect
of my being able to appoint one.
Friday, \Zth. — A long and warm day's journey to
Swellendam, through a country which I now travel
over for the fifth time since my arrival in the diocese.
We intended to have slept at a farm about three hours
short of Swellendam ; but the farmer could not accom-
modate us; we therefore pushed on, and arrived at
Mr. Baker's about ten o'clock, having accomplished
a journey of upwards of sixty miles. My horses did not
seem at all tired. Mr. Baker was still out in the parish
preparing the candidates for confirmation. The next
day was spent almost exclusively in receiving visitors
and writing letters.
On Sinidaij I preached in the morning in the school-
room, and afterwards administered the Holy Commu-
nion to twenty-five persons. The congregation was
good, and filled the room. In the evening I confirmed
eight candidates, of whom three had been Wesleyans,
and one a Romanist. Mr. Badnall preached. There
was a very full congregation, and the candidates, as is
almost always the case, seemed to feel deeply.
On Monday we held a meeting of the Church Building
Committee, which, after a long conversation, was ad-
journed till the next day. We had some difficulty in
fixing upon a suitable site, and it was found that the
funds were far from sufficient to complete the church,
there not being more than 600/. in hand ; and a very
simple building costing not less than 1,000/. At our
meeting on Tuesday the site was determined upon, and it
was decided that the plans I had furnished should be
adopted, and the building be proceeded with. On the
evening of this day, being the last of my stay in the
village, I met the parishioners in the school-room, and
aimounced to them the course which had been decided
198 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
upon. I took this opportunity of explaining my views
and plans with reference to the future missionary ope-
rations of our Church, and endeavouring to excite an
interest in them. I gave, at the same time, u general
view of the state and progress of the Church throughout
the diocese.
I think that a decided improvement has taken place
in this parish since my visitation last year. The con-
gregations have increased; Mr. and Mrs. Baker are
evidently both much respected by the parishioners, and
there is a determination on the part of some to meet
difficulties, and to bring the church to its completion.
There are, however, some peculiar circumstances con-
nected with this parish that have in some degree im-
peded the progress of our work. Efforts have been
made, by those who are not of us, to weaken the hold
of the Church upon the minds of her members. Though
some have been disturbed and distressed thereby, none
have been led astray, and it will, I trust, be seen here,
as elsewhere, that unkind and unjust attempts to mar
the Church's work tend only in the end to strengthen it.
A Romish priest has arrived in this village since my last
visitation. He has no congregation. There are now,
besides him, a Dutch and English minister to a popula-
tion of about 2,000 souls.
Wechieschii/. — Started at six o'clock this morning. I
sent my own horses on four hours last night, Mr. Barry
having kindly lent me his for the first stage. By this
means I was enabled to reach Captain Rainier's in good
time. We stopped at several houses in the way for
a short time. At Lindis I examined three candidates
for confirmation from amongst the Heathen. They had
been baptized a short time before by Mr. Sandberg,
Minister of Caledon, who has since prepared them for
confirmation. Mr. Sandberg met me on the road at
IMr. Vigne's, who has several children to be confirmed.
As this is the fifth time of my passing through this
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 199,
country, I attempt no desci'iption of it. The mountains
looked, however, more beautiful than ever ; and the
country, which is somewhat parched, notwithstanding
tbe late rains, more dreary than usual, with its un-
broken, monotonous rhinoster bush.
Just before leaving Swellendam, my letters from home
brought me word that my old friend Mr. Jackson,
Bishop Designate of Lyttelton, in New Zealand, had
touched at the Cape on his way out, and was a guest of
my wife's at Protea. He will have sailed again, I fear,
before I can return home. It is a great disappointment
to me to have missed him.
On Thursday, I left Captain Rainier' s, and made a short
day's journey to Colonel Button's, near Caledon. The
next day I proceeded to Major Shaw's, stopping a few
hours at Caledon in my way to see the clergyman and
churchwardens, inspect the church, which is now re-
maining in an unfinished state from want of funds, and
examine into the proceedings of the Church Building
Committee, &c. I find that a good deal of money has
been wasted on the building, which might have been
completed, or nearly so, with the funds in hand, had
they been judiciously expended. Some little irritation
had arisen in consequence of my declining to draw for
the grant of the Society for Promoting Christian Kuowledge
until I saw a prospect of the church being completed.
Saturday, Dec. 2\st. — Major Shaw drove me into Cale-
don this morning for our meeting. There were assembled
in the Court-house most of the neighbouring gentlemen.
I received from them an address, signed by 121 pa-
rishioners, congratulating me on my safe return, regret-
ting the stoppage of the church, and thanking me for the
appointment of their minister, of whom they spoke in
warm terms. After replying to the address, I laid before
them the real state of the affairs of the parish, and
pointed out to them the necessity of doing more towards
the erection of the church, and the maintenance of the
200 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
ministry. A very good and kindly spirit prevailed. The
gentlemen present guaranteed the advancement of 200/.
on loan without security, and a fresh subscription ^vas
entered into. Upwards of 80/. was subscribed in the
room, and several gentlemen undertook to collect through-
out the district. I wrote a letter, after the meeting, to
the minister and churchwardens, which is to be circu-
lated throughout the parish, and the object of which is
to make the English inhabitants feel, that if they desire
to have a church and clergyman, they must all contri-
bute largely towards both objects.
Suiidaj/, Tld. — As a considerable number of the pa-
rishioners were expected to attend the services this day,
I accepted of the offer of the loan of the Dutch church,
in lieu of the public offices, which are not large. There
was a very considerable congregation both in the morn-
ing and afternoon. I preached on both occasions ; we
had thirty-two communicants in the morning, and
twenty-five candidates for confirmation in the afternoon.
In the evening I returned to .Major Shaw's. This will,
I believe, be the last public service which I shall hold
during the present visitation. God be praised that
I have been enabled to go through every duty to which
I have been called from the hour I left home, without
having ever been hindered by 'sickness ! Would that
they had been more efficiently performed ! No one is
more deeply conscious than myself of my many defi-
ciencies in the services of the sanctuary.
Monday, 23f/.— Left Major Shaw's at five o'clock this
morning ; called at several English farms during the
day. I had intended to have slept at the beautiful little
village of Somerset; but, on arriving there at four
o'clock, I determined to proceed to Eerste Rivier,
which is a distance of nearly sixty miles from where
I slept last night. Here I found my dearest wife, who
had ridden thus far to meet me, and was on the point of
starting again for Somerset.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 201
Tuesday., 2\tli. — We were iu the saddle at six o'clock
this morning, and, after an agreeable ride across the
flats, reached home by ten o'clock. Here I was per-
mitted to meet again my dearest children in health and
strength. How shall I be sufficiently thankful to Al-
mighty God for His many mercies towards me ! He
has most graciously protected me during an anxious
and laborious visitation, which has lasted nearly nine
months, and during which I have travelled in my cart,
on horseback, or on foot, upwards of 4,000 miles, and
enabled me to return to my home to find those nearest
and dearest to me in perfect health and safety I
Stirsum corda ! May each renewed mercy be regarded
as a fresh call to dedicate my whole self to Him and His
service ! " Let all that is Avithin me praise His holy
name ! "
It may not be amiss if I record, at the close of this
visitation, my views and impressions upon several
points which have engaged much of my thoughts, and
will be to many matters of some interest.
Though I have expressed myself freely, in several
places in this Journal, upon passing events, which at
the moment aroused my feelings, I have nevertheless
upon principle abstained from touching upon many
points, which, in my peculiar position, it seemed wise
not to discuss. Had I been free to express opinions as
a private individual, I should have wished to touch
upon topics which, circumstanced as I am, cannot well
be noticed. I propose, therefore, in the observations
which I am about to make, to confine myself almost
exclusively to the present state and futui-e prospects of
the Church of this diocese, and only to allude to other
extraneous matter as it seems to bear more or less
directly upon the object which I have in view.
202 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
EXTENT OF DIOCESE.
The Diocese of Capetown consists of the colony of the
Cape of Good Hope; the Sovereignty ; Natal; Kaffra-
ria; and the island of St. Helena. St. Helena lies at a
distance of 1,000 miles from Capetown on one side;
Natal at 1,000 miles on the other ; and the whole inter-
vening country is included in the diocese. The Cape
Colony alone is as large as England, Scotland, and Ire-
land. The Sovereignty is equal in extent to England
and Wales; Natal to the whole of Greece; and British
Kaffraria, with the country beyond it, to Ireland. In
point of extent of territory the diocese is, I believe,
larger than any other in the world, except Calcutta,
containing not less than 250,000 square miles.
POPULATION.
The population Avithin the diocese cannot be stated
with any accuracy ; but, so far as I have been able to
ascertain, from inquiries on the spot, of those who are best
informed on the subject, and from official documents, it
amounts to about 700,000, and, perhaps, 800,000. It
may be divided amongst the dillbrent countries or dis-
tricts, perhaps in the following proportions.
In the colony of the Cape of Good Hope there are up-
w ards of 220,000. Of these, rather more than half are
coloured. By far the larger portion of the remaining
population is of Dutch extraction.
In the Sovereignty the population is estimated at
nearly 100,000; of whom perhaps 85,000 are coloured.
In Natal the population is said to be 125,000 ; of
whom 115,000 are Zulus.
The popvilation of British Kaffraria is ascertained to
be about 80,000. The Tambookies are rated, and pro-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 203
bably over-rated, at 90,000 ; Kreli's tribe at 60,000 ;
and the tribes between him and Natal, including Faku's,
at 100,000. In point of population this exceeds any of
our colonial dioceses, with the exception of the Indian,
amongst which I include Ceylon. It has occupied nine
months to travel over only a portion of the diocese.
It would take a year to visit the whole ; and in order
to do so thoroughly, 6,000 miles must be travelled by
land or by water. These facts, surely, are sufficient to
show the absolute necessity of a speedy subdivision of
the diocese.
LANGUAGE.
The languages chiefly spoken in this diocese are
English, Dutch, and Kafir. But, besides these, the
Bechuana, Hottentot, Bushman, and others of less note,
prevail in some parts. Dutch is of much importance to
clergymen ministering within the colony, especially in
the western district, as nearly the whole of the coloured
people speak that language in a corrupt form. A know-
ledge of the Kafir language will be essential to success-
ful missionary operations among that people. The
whole Kafir race up to Delagoa Bay speak the same
language with slight variations. Mr. Appleyard, in his
recent grammar, thus characterises it : " The Kafir lan-
guage, although at present spoken by a race of people
just emerging from barbarism, bears strong internal
evidence of having been used, at one time, by those who
must have constituted a much more cultivated order of
society. Time has probably effected a deterioration in
some of its parts, considering in whose possession we
find it; yet even now it does not seem to be the legiti-
mate property of an uncivilized people." In sound, the
language, especially in Natal, reminded me much of the
Italian.
204 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
PROGIIESS OF THE CHURCH.
There can be no doubt that it lias pleased God, dur-
ing the last three years, to bless in .a very remarkable
manner the work of the Church in this land. The
increase of life within our communion has been observed
by all. The addresses presented to me in the course of
this visitation are evidences of this. Unhappily our
eflPorts to provide for the spiritual wants of our people,
and to do the work God has given us to do, have not
always been regarded in a Christian spirit by those Avho
are not of us. We have been met not unfrequently
witli misrepresentation, and bitter opposition; and
efforts have been made through the press, and in other
ways, to excite the prejudices of the ignorant against
the Church. From this wrong spirit most of the foreign
missionaries, and, I think I may add, the Wesleyans
generally, have been exempt. From some of the
ministers of the Dutch Church much kindness and
co-operation have been experienced. Independents,
Baptists, Romanists, and some other self-constituted
societies and sects, have been the most bitter, I am
thankful to say that the great body of the clergy have
both felt and acted with real charity towai'ds those who
differ from us. They have ever sought and desired to
live on terms of amity with all who are round about
them, and have, I believe, been uniformly courteous to
all. Still, I repeat, amidst the jealousy and opposition
of others the work has prospered. It is not yet three
years since I landed in the colony. There were then
sixteen clergy in the diocese. At this moment there
are fifty, notwithstanding that three have withdrawn.
Several more are expected. It is impossible not to feel
anxious about the future maintenance of the extensive
work which has been undertaken in this land. There
are circumstances peculiar to this colony which render
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 205
the establishment of the Church upon a secure founda-
tion singularly difficult. Amongst these we must
reckon the distinctions of race and class with all its pre-
judices and antipathies. There are three distinct races
at least in each village or parish, and there is no drawing
towards one another on the part of any. Of these the
English are the fewest in number, and they are again
broken up by religious divisions. The Churchmen are
indeed in most places of the colony more numerous than
the dissenters, and many of these latter have already
joined our communion. But we are in most places the
last in the field, are regarded as intruders, and have lost,
through our previous neglect, many valuable members.
The scattered nature of our population offers another
great difficulty. Our people, few in number as they are,
are distributed over a vast extent of country, which, for
the most part, is incapable of supporting a dense popu-
lation. The critical question for us is. How are we to
maintain our ministry for the next few years, until our
numbers are increased by immigration, by converts from
the heathen, or the return to our communion of such of
our members as at present are separate from us ? Our
people are generally doing as much as, or more than, I
could have expected. Notwithstanding the efforts re-
quired to erect their churches, they are coming forward
to maintain a standing ministry; but the amount thus
raised is wholly inadequate, and will be so for some
years to come. The colonial government renders
some assistance ; but support from this quarter is
likely to be diminished rather than increased in years
to come. Under these circumstances we must continue
to look to the mother land and mother Church to aid
Its. That she disregarded her responsibilities towards
this colony for well nigh half a centurj', and thereby
made the work more difficult when entered upon in
earnest, is an additional reason for pushing it forward
Mith unremitting zeal and vigour during the first few
206 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
years. There is good reason to hope, I think, that
from year to year each parish will do more and more
towards maintaining its own work. But Churchmen,
■who at home have had their spiritual wants supplied
thi'ougli the bounty of our forefathers, are slow to
learn the lesson that their own offerings are the only
endowment to be depended upon here, and many are
really not capable of doing much, for the colony is after
all a very poor one. The average expenditure of the
V/esleyan Society in this land has been 10,000/. a-year
for the last ten years. The London Society, (Indepen-
dents,) expends, I believe, 6,000/. And other Protest-
ant denominations, exclusive of the English Church,
make up the total to something little short of 30,000/.
a-year.
RELIGIOUS BODIES IN SOUTH AFRICA.
There arc in South Africa altogether upwards of 200
ministers of religion. Many of these are engaged in
missionary operations far beyond the countries which I
have visited. Some, indeed, arenot far distant from the
great lake discovered by Mr. Oswell, an Indian gentle-
man, and Mr. Livingstone of the London Society.
The number, indeed, of those Avho are engaged in
endeavouring to plant the Gospel amongst the tribes
beyond the colony, and to civilize them, is considerable.
Unhappily, there is no unity of design in their efforts,
nor is there any adequate system of supervision
established. They act independently of each other,
without much mutual consultation or intercourse. The
field, however, is so wide, that it is very rarely that one
Society interferes with another. There is ample room
for all; and, so far as I have been able to judge, a
kindly and brotherly spirit prevails amongst those
Christians who dwell in the very midst of the kingdom
of darkness. But the fact that there are not less than
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 207
twenty ' different religions in South Africa, cannot but
be a subject for anxious consideration to the thoughtful
mind which looks forward to the future.
PROSPECTS OF THE CHURCH.
It would be presumptuous to speak very decidedly
as to the future prospects of the Church. The difficulties
arising from race and language, will, at least for years
to come, stand greatly in the way of its extension. It
yet remains to be seen how far these will be overcome.
AH that can be said at present is, that the Church ap-
pears to be taking deep root in the land, and that a few
years more of progress like the three that are past will,
under God, establish it firmly. If His Spirit be poured
out, as we hope and pray, in enlarged measure on
ministers and people, there will be no reason for fear or
doubt, and we need be under no anxiety. It is im-
possible to tell as yet what effect the changes which are
about to take place in our political institutions may
have upon the Church. Looking at the spirit and
temper of the times, and bearing in mind that repre-
sentative institutions will place great political power in
the hands of the majority of the population, which is
not of British extraction, and has strong prejudices and
antipathies, I own I do not look forward to the future
with much comfort or confidence. I shall be agreeably
surprised if efforts should not be made to Avithdraw
Ecclesiastical grants from the Church, though it is to
be hoped that under the worst circumstances, vested
interests will be respected, and that those who under
(1) Church of England; Dutch Church; Roman Catholics; Independ-
ents (London Society) ; Wesleyans ; Baptists ; Scotch Establishment ; Free
Kirk; United Presbyterian; Moravian; Berlin, Rhenish, and Paris
Societies ; Americans ; Swedes ; Lutherans ; single congregations sepa-
rated from Lutherans and from Dutch Church ; Apostolic Union ; S. A.
Missionary Society ; Church Instruction Society ; and there are besides
Jews and Mahommedans.
20S BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
distinct pledges have come out to labour for Christ's
cause and truth in the land, thereby sacrificing prefer-
ment and prospects at home, uill not be cast adrift
without a prospect of support, and incapable, from their
sacred profession, of seeking employment and main-
tenance through worldly business and occupations.
Probably the circumstance that the Dutch and English
Church must, in this respect, stand or fall together, may
save us from injustice. If thrown on their own re-
sources, the former, with all their advantage of numbers,
would, I believe, have greater difliculty in maintaining
their ministry than we should.
Then, again, it seems quite uncertain what effect the
war, which, while I write, has just burst out, may have
upon our work. It is certain that the whole eastern
province will be thei'eby impoverished, and vast numbers
of our people be ruined. Indeed they are so already,
for their houses are destroyed, and their flocks have
perished. They will not, therefore, be able to fulfil their
engagements towards the support of their ministers.
Should the Home Government decline to pay the
expenses of this war, which some think it will, as a
just punishment for our violence and rebellious spirit
during the last two years, but which it is hoped the
generosity of the British Parliament will not determine
upon, as it would well-nigh ruin the colony ; — should
this unfortunately prove to be the case, 1 do not see
how the colony, burdened Avith a heavy debt, m ould be
able to maintain its existing establishments. Looking,
therefore, at our present position, I feel satisfied that,
if the mother Church were to relax her efforts in behalf
of her newly planted daughter in this land, it would
expose our whole work to imminent pcriL We cannot
as yet stand alone. Our work is, however, founded
upon right principles, the principles of our Church and
Prayer-book ; and I look confidently lor increased
fruits from vear to rear.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 209
MISSION WORK.
I have already in the body of my Journal spoken
fully on this head, and will, therefore, only here repeat
that there is a mighty field before us ; that there arc
myriads of souls within this diocese, who have yet to
be won to Christ ; and that if we, as a Church, are to
go forth in the name of God against the powers of
darkness in this land, the means and the men must be
furnished from home. Every parish in this diocese will
contribute according to its ability ; but the amount so
raised will be wholly inadequate for the carrying on of
any extensive work. I do earnestly hope that we may
not plead in vain for men and means for this special
work. The Kafir war just broken out will delay the
formation of our mission in Kaffraria, upon which we
were just preparing to enter. But the more important
field amongst the Zulus in Natal is still open to us.
EDUCATION.
It may be well that I should say here a few words on
the subject of Education. There are not, perhaps, many
countries in the world that devote so large a proportion
of their revenue towards providing education for their
people. Out of a contemplated revenue of 204,161/. for
the year 1851, it was intended to have appropriated no
less a sum than 7,478/. to this special purpose, which
is about the proportion granted in former years. The
violent disruption, however, of the legislative council
prevented the estimates from being passed.
The greater portion of this annual grant is expended
in the maintenance of free government schools in the
towns and villages of the colony. Each of these is
supported at au expense to Government of from 150/.
to 300/., or even 350/. There are other schools which
P
210 BISHOP OF Capetown's
are aided by Government in villages and in the country ;
these are supported in pai't by subscriptions, and pay-
ments from the children. The mission schools also
throughout the colony receive some assistance; and
there is a so-called college in Capetown, to which a
grant has been made of 400/. a-year. In the schools
which are altogether supported by Government, no
creeds or catechisms are allowed to be taught, though
this rule is not strictly observed.
It is a subject of gi-eat regret to many that the liberal
intentions of Government have not, from various causes,
been of that service to the countrj^, which, had they
been more efficiently carried out, they might have been.
Though there are several excellent schools in the colony,
which have been raised by the exertions and abilities of
some very efficient teachers, the Government system
of education, now in operation, cannot be considered as
that which is best suited to the existing circumstances
of the country.
The South African College, above alluded to, has
long, and very generally, been regarded as almost use-
less. I doubt much, whether for some time past it has
had ten pupils within its walls who were paying any-
thing for their education. Not a few of the schools in
the villages of the colony have failed to secure the con-
fidence of the inhabitants, and some of them are almost
without pupils. Several causes have led to this. The
teachers are in some instances most inefficient, and have
been, in our late disturbances, amongst the most violent
democrats in the colony. The School Commissions
possess no powers, and therefore take no interest in the
schools. The schools being free, are open to all. Pre-
cisely the same education is professedly given in the
same school to the children of the chief people in the
neighbourhood, as is given to the children of Hottentots
and Kafirs. This is by many urged as a grave objection
against the schools, and there is force in the objection.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 211
I do not indeed in the least sympathise with the feeling
which leads the white man to think it a degradation for
his child to be educated with a coloured child; but
surely the education required for the children of mer-
chants, farmers, and magistrates, is not exactly that
which you would give to the Hottentots ; nor is it alto-
gether unreasonable that Christian parents should ob-
ject to their children being brought into close contact
either with the moral or physical contamination which
the children of heathen parents almost invariably carry
Avith them. Another objection urged against these
schools is, that the teachers are allowed to take pay-
ments from parents who choose to pay. It is thought
that the free children are neglected for these. I have
also frequently heard parents complain that their chil-
dren, instead of I'eceiving a plain solid education, are
taught the bare elements of science. I have often
myself been struck with this. As an illustration of my
meaning, I select at random from the Blue Book of last
year, some extracts from the official returns of Govern-
ment schools, to which it will be remembered the chil-
dren of the coloured people are admitted, and which are
entirely free. "The subjects selected for discussion
were the analysis and etymology of words
the properties of matter; the nature and iniiu-
ence of heat, — the first principles of mechanical science
the higher branches of arithmetic." Another
discusses " the first principles of statics applied to
fluids." Another, " the first principles of physical
science, including the properties of matter connected
with the subject of motion, the elements of chemis-
try," &c.
The education of the farmers in the country is in
some degree sacrificed to the maintenance of these
schools, which are often inferior to schools started in
the same place by private individuals, who succeed in
maintaining themselves without any Government as-
212 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
sistancc. It would be a great improvement if, for the
present system, Avere substituted one which merely
aided the inhabitants of any village in the maintenance
of their own schools, over which the promoters might
exercise a control. This would render the existing
schools less costly to Government, and place at their
disposal additional funds, for the extension of education
in the remoter districts, for which, up to this time, very
little has been done. I do not think that there would
be any objection to this on the part of the inhabitants
of the towns and villages. On the contrary, I am per-
suaded that they would rejoice in the alteration. They
no longer require an entirely gratuitous education ; and
are prepared to contribute something towards their
children's instruction. Unless some such arrangement
be come to, the country districts cannot be provided
ibr ; for the colony cannot, out of its revenue, appro-
priate a much larger sum for educational purposes.
Nor does it seem reasonable that 200/. or 300/. a-year
should be given for the education often of a very
limited number of pupils, while extensive neighbour-
hoods are left altogether destitute. At present this is
the case. In many parts of the country there is no
education at all. The inhabitants are growing up in a
sad state of ignorance. The usual custom with those
who value education is for a farmer to engage a tutor —
say for six months, or a year, or longer, to teach his
children. They learn to read and write their names,
and get up the Catechism of their Church, and there, I
fear, their education too often ends. These tutors have
been frequently men of bad character, — discharged sol-
diers, &c. Some of them, however, are very respectable
men ; and an improved class is being educated for the
work, through the efforts of the Dutch ministers in
Capetown.
Of course any alteration in the present Government
system of education would have to be carried out
VISITATION JOURNAL, I 85 1. 213
gradually, so as not to interfere with the engagements
made with existing teachers.
We have not been able as yet to do much in the way
of education. Our Collegiate school, which has already
cost 2,600/., is, indeed, full ; and many more, whom the
Principal is obliged to refuse, would avail themselves
of the advantages which it offers, if there were funds
for the enlargement of the buildings. Grammar schools
have also been erected in Capetown and Graham's
Town ; and there are a few other Church schools here
and there throughout the diocese.
There are few things which I am more anxious about,
or deem of greater importance, than the erection of
suitable college buildings. Till we are able to do this,
our most important educational work must be cramped.
Had we sufficient room to accommodate double our
present number of pupils, the College would, I think,
support itself. I subjoin the Appeal which 1 published
some time since in behalf of this undertaking/
January \^th, 1851. — I have thought it desirable at
the present eventful period, to continue from time to
time to place on record facts and circumstances of mo-
ment to the colony and the Church.
On Christmas-day 1 was again permitted to celebrate
the Holy Communion in the cathedral; 170 communi-
cated. During the course of the week the following
Address was presented to me : —
" From the Vestry and Churchwardens of the
Cathedral Church, Capetown, and other lav
Members of the Church of England.
" My Lord,
" We, the undersigned members of the Vestry
and Churchwardens of the Cathedral Church of St.
(I) See Note H, at the end of the volume.
211 BISHOP OF capeto\vn's
George, and lay members of the ChurcL of England,
resident in Capetown and its neighbourhood, beg to
offer our hearty congratulations on your Lordship's
safe return to this city after so very long and laborious
a visitation throughout the remote divisions of your
diocese. We are fully sensible of the deep and earnest
devotion ^vith which your Lordship has sought to diffuse
the pure spirit of the Gospel amid the destitute por-
tions of South Africa, and of the cheerfulness and zeal
■with which you encountered the toil and privation to
w hich you have been thus unavoidably exposed ; and
•we confidently trust that, in God's appointed time, they
vrill be productive of good to those on whose behalf
they were undertaken, and that, eventually, the ser-
vices, sacraments, and teaching of our venerable Church,
may be brought within the reach of the greater part, if
not of the whole of her dispersed members in every part
of the diocese.
" Nor are we less sensible of your Lordship's untiring
efforts for the diffusion of true religion in the hearts of
the people in this more favoured part of the colony, nor
of the manifold benefits we have oiirselves derived from
your Lordship's appointment to the See of Capetown.
" Without a Bishop for the maintenance of order and
discipline, the Church of England at the Cape of Good
Hope Avas, for many years, so inadequately provided
with a ministry, as to be w holly incompetent to perform
the work Avhich lay so w idely scattered around her ;
while many of her members, from the want of shepherds
to lead them, wandered in pursuit of pasture into other
folds.
" But, blessed be God, under whose providential
care your Lordship has at length been sent to oversee
the gathering in of the flocks, brighter hopes have now-
dawned upon the Church of South Africa; and we
heartily pray that you may long be preserved to provide
for her growth and maturity ; that your Lordship may
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 215
long continue to be a blessing to all those whose spi-
ritual welfare is witMu the reach of the influence of your
conduct and example; and that, hereafter, when you
shall be called to render account of your'sacred and
solemn mission, you may receive that rich reward
which our Heavenly Father has in store for those, who,
under the guidance of His Holy Spirit, have laboured
faithfully in the discharge of those apostolical duties
for which they have been consecrated in His Church
here on earth."
To this I replied as follows : —
" To THE Chairman of St. George's Vestry.
" Dear Sir,
" I beg to acknowledge the receipt of an Address
from the Vestry, Churchwardens, and Lay Members of
the Church of England, resident in Capetown and its
neighbourhood, which you have been good enough to
forward to me, and in which they offer their hearty
congratulations on my safe return, after a long and
laborious visitation throughout the remote divisions
of the diocese. I shall feel obliged by your conveying
to the subscribers to the Address my sincere thanks for
their kind and cordial welcome, after so long an absence.
It has pleased God to bring me back in health and
safety, after a visitation which has extended over nearly
nine months. May the life which He has spared be
devoted more entirely to Him and His service !
" The Address expresses a hope that the day is not
far distant when the members of the Church throughout
the land will be provided with an adequate supply of
the means of grace, within their own communion. Such,
I trust, will ere long be the case.
" It is, indeed, being gradually accomplished through
the zeal of the members of the Church, who in many
places have contributed very largely, both towards the
216 BISHOP OF Capetown's
erection of churches, and the mjiintenance of their
ministers, and who are beginning very generally to feel
that their spiritual wants can only be supplied by much
exertion and self-denial on their part.
" Commending our Avork to the blessing and favour
of Almighty God,
" I remain, dear Sir, faithfully yours,
" R. Capetown."
On the following Sunday I preached 'in the cathedral,
from Isaiah xxvi. 9 : "When thy judgments are in tlie
earth, the inhabitants of the world shall learn righteous-
ness." I endeavoured to impress upon the Church my
own conviction, — that this land is suffering God's chas-
tisement for its sins, and especially for those of the last
Two years. I urged particularly the severe drought,
which had almost led to a famine in the east; — the
plague of locusts, which had visited the country in
greater numbers than for the last quarter of a centur}' ;
— the unceasing rains in the west, followed by the rust ;
— and the war, which seemed to be impending; as
proofs that God was visiting us in His wrath.
On the last day of the year we had full service in the
cathedral in the evenmg, and again on the morning of
the new year, — the Feast of the Circumcision, w hen
seventy partook of the Lord's Supper. IMr. Newman
preached on both occasions. As we came out of church
we were informed that the Kafirs had commenced the
Avar. The probability of this must have occurred to
most minds ; but men Avere sanguine to the last, that it
would be staved otT, at least for the present. The im-
mediate effect Avas, that our troops, 2, .000 in number,
Avere shut up in their forts, and their communication
A\ith each other and Avith the colony Avas cut off. The
Governor himself, with Colonel Mackinnon, Avas cooped
up in Fort Cox. He did not, howevei-, remain there
long; but, having 250 Cape Corps Avilh him, and but
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 2l7
little forage, he cut his way through the enemy to King
William's Town, distant about twenty-four miles. Col.
Somerset, who attempted to open a communication with
the Governor, was obliged to retreat with the loss of
about thirty men. The Kafir Hermanns, located at the
Blinkwater, within the colony, has taken part with the
enemy, and is now ravaging the Winterberg, carrying
fire and sword throughout the country. Even the Hot-
tentots of the Kat River settlement are said to be dis-
affected ; and there is some reason to fear that Kreli,
and the Taraboukie chiefs, are preparing to ravage the
frontier. Should this be the case, the odds against us
will be fearful.
Fort Beaufort and Alice have each been attacked, but
the enemy has been repulsed from both by the inhabit-
ants aided by a few soldiers. The military villages of
Auckland, Woburn, and Joannasburg, have been de-
stroyed, and the male inhabitants massacred. At
Graham's Town there are no troops. The inhabitants,
who are expecting to be attacked, are constantly under
arms. Straggling bodies of Kafirs wander over the
whole open country. Houses and individuals have been
attacked in various directions ; the houses have been
burnt, and the inmates, in some instances, murdered.
Great efforts are being made to raise levies. These
consist almost exclusively of Hottentots from the Mis- ■
sionary Institutions (chiefly Moravian) in the west,
and of Fingoes from the frontier. The English do not
appear to volunteer in great numbers, and the Dutch
scarce at all.
OvL Thursday, the 2cl oi Januari/, a synodical meeting
of the Clergy of the Rural Deanery of Capetown was
held at Protea ; nineteen clergy were present, a larger
number than had ever met before in the diocese. I gave
them some account of my visitation, and of the state of
the diocese ; laid befor.e them the Zulu Missionscheme,
w hich met with their entire approbation ; and consulted
218 BISHOP OF capetoavn's
them about the division of the diocese, which they ap-
peared to think as necessary as their more distant
brethren do. I also informed them of the circumstances
Avhich seemed to require my return to England, and
invited their opinion. They concurred with me in the
necessity of the step, and expressed themselves very
kindly on the subject. They unanimously agreed to the
proposal that, under our present chastisement, a day
should be appointed for special humiliation before God,
■with prayer and fasting, and that we should seek the
co-operation of the Dutch Church in the matter. A Ser-
vice has since been prepared, and the Governor has
recommicnded the day to be observed by all Christians
in the colony.
Jammrr/'l^tli. — The Archdeacon of Graham's Town has
had a very merciful escape. He walked into Graham's
Town the very day the war broke out, which was also
the day of my return home. He had been oiit on
visitation six vreeks, during which he had accomplished
800 miles on foot. For the last three weeks, in his way
down from Bloemfontein, he had been in the part of the
country most exposed to invasion. Had he been a week
later he would have been in imminent peril. A merciful
I'rovidence, however, watched over him. Several of the
clergy are, I grieve to say, in much danger. Mr. and
Mrs. Beaver have sustained two severe attacks in Alice
from the Kafirs; Fort Beaufort, where Mr. and Mrs.
Wilshere reside, has been also twice attacked ; on the
second occasion the chief Hermanns was killed, fighting
in the streets. Mr. Willson, at Post Relief, is, perhaps,
in the most perilous situation. The place has been
repeatedly attacked by the Hottentots, who have now,
throughout the whole of the east, joined in the rebel-
lion ; it has only a few farmers to defend it, and all com-
munication with it has been cut olT. Mr. ^^'atcrs and
Mr. Henchman are both in laagers in their respective
parishes. Not one clergyman, however, has yet aban-
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 219
doned his post. Mr. Boon, catechist at the Mancazana,
has indeed been compelled to fly, and his residence, and
his church, the latter only just freed from debt, have, I
believe, been burnt.
March 2QtIi. — The war still drags on, without much
prospect of a speedy conclusion. Through Mr. Mon-
tagu's indefatigable exertions, 3,000 newly raised leA^es,
chiefly Hottentots, have been sent up to the Governor.
These have been employed on frequent patrols ; but no
great blow has yet been struck. The Kafirs fight boldly,
hand to hand, with the troops, and the Hottentots, in
their present undisciplined state, seem hardly a match
for them. The Fingoes, on all occasions, fight with
great courage. Having been formerly slaves to the
Kafirs they hate their ancient masters with a deadly
hatred. The addition to the Governor's force has enabled
him to send 400 European levies to Major-General So-
merset, who proceeded Avith these to the Kat River
settlement, where he was joined by bodies of Dutch
and English volunteers. A combined attack was made
upon the Hottentots, who had taken possession of Fort
Armstrong, a very strong post. The post was taken
after a severe fight, and in the course of the next few
days the rebellion was apparently put down. Several
himdred prisoners have been taken, many thousand
sheep and oxen, and seventy wagons of goods of all
kinds, — the spoils of the neighbouring farms, watches,
jewellery, books, dresses, scientific instruments. This is
the state of things up to the present time. The Gaika
Kafirs in the Amatola, not less than 40,000 in number,
still remain to be conquered, and such of the Tam-
bookies as have engaged in the war.
The inhabitants of the eastern province are crying out
for a commission to inquire into the causes of the Hot-
tentot rebellion. It is laid by them very freely at the
door of the Missionaries of the London and Glasgow
Societies. The whole subject is at present involved in
220 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
much mystery; but I cannot for an instant believe that
any Missionaries would deliberately encourage rebellion,
though I can easily understand that their whole system
and teaching might lead to it. There is certainly a very
great contrast in the conduct of the coloured races who
are under tlie training of Moravians and Wesleyans,
when compared with those who are under the London
and Scotch Societies. This is so remarkable, that it has
been observed by all who are acquainted with the state
of things in the country.
I feci it right to express here my firm conviction that
neither the present Kafir war, nor the rebellion of the
Hottentots, has been brought about by any oppression
on the part of the Government of this country. There
are features in our border policy of which I cannot ap-
prove ; but our Government of British KafFraria has
been wise, just, and humane. We have, it is true, held
military possession of the country ; it was essential to
our own safety that we should; but we have not inter-
fered with the government of the chiefs more than was
absolutely necessary ; and, when we have interfered, it
has been to protect the oppressed. The real causes
which have led to the present war Avith the Kafirs are,
— 1st, that under the system which was established,
the chiefs' power was gradually fading away ; — 2d,
cattle stealing was put a stop to by a very efficient police ;
— 3d, the distress consequent upon the severe drought
of last year ; — and 4th, A knowledge of our internal
divisions, and the alienation of feelings between the
white and coloured races, and between the English and
the Dutch.
For the Hottentot rebellion there is no exoise what-
ever. The rebels of the Kat River had had one of the
finest parts of the country given them to live on ; Govern-
ment dealt most liberally with them. Sobriety and
industry would have enabled them to take their place
among the landed proprietors of the country, 'i'hat the
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 221
white man has failed in his duty to the coloured races
in South Africa, — the Christian to the Heathen, I do
not deny; I feel it to be a great reproach. But what-
ever may be the amount of his short-coming in this
respect, it would be a grievous wrong to assign it as a
justification of the rebellion which has spread over so
large a portion of the eastern province.
NOTES.
Note A.— Page ]3S.
Nearly all the inhabitants of tliis part of the country have
been obliged to leave their farms since tlie breaking out of the
present war. A Laager, or encampment, has been formed at
Sidbury, and Mr. Henchman still continues at his post, which
is far from secure.
Note 15. — Page H4.
Just tliree months after this the war actually broke out.
Colonel Somerset and myself heard the first rumours of it at
Fort Brown on the day we left Graham's Town. As we rode
along the Fish River these riunours increased. When Colonel
Somerset arrived at Fort Beaufort he sent an e.\press to
Colonel Mackinnon on the subject. Alice lias been twice
attacked by large bodies of Kalirs. Mr. Beaver has remained
at his post the whole time.
Note C— Page 148.
Since the coinnu'nccinent of the war the church has been
used as a place of defence. Fort Beaufort has been attacked
twice by the Blinkwater rebels ; at the second attack the chief
Hennanus met his death fighting in the streets. Mr. Wilshere
lias remained at his post the whole time.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 223
Note D.— Page 149.
Ths Post has since been burnt down by t!ie rebel Hottentots,
and ilie liitle church, I believe, destroyed. ]\Ir. Boon escaped
on horseback to Cradock, leaving his little ^H'operiy in books
and furniture behind him.
Note E.— Page 152.
Mr. Willson has been, since the breaking out of the viar, in
the most dangerous and distressing position of any of the
clergy on the frontier. He has been cooped up in this little
post, with the families of the neighbouring farmers, whose
houses have been burned, and their crops destroyed, and cattle
driven off' by the rebel Hottentots. All commuuicatioii with
the post lias been cut off during the greater part of the last
two months ; it has been repeatedly attacked by the enemy.
Note F. — Page 155.
The Institution has been burned down since the war com-
menced. The Hottentots received the enemy with open arms.
The brethren escaped to AVhittlesea, which place has been most
bravely defended by a handful of men. Had iliis place fallen,
the whole of the Cradock district would have been laid
waste.
Note G. — Page 156.
Kama has proved faithful again in this new war, and has
done good service with his tribe.
Note H.— Page 213.
" Diocesan Collegiate School.
"A year has now passed since the Bishop opened a Diocesan
Collegiate School at Protea, the first principle of which was,
that it should be conducted strictly on the pr;ncij;les of the
224 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S
Englisli Church ; and tlioiigh this period is not long enough to ,
show the whole working oi' such a school, yet, considering the
undertaking in the lowest point of view, as an experiment^ the |
following conclusions seem to be already established. , ;
" 1. That the want of such a school in the diocese was^felt, ,
and thai this want has now been in some measure supplied. j
This is plain from the fact that the numbers, whicli were siiiall ,
at first, have been steadily increasing, so that the school, tho^ gh j
of late much enlarged, is now all but full. I
" 2. That a further increase of accommodation is necessary, j
as several applications for admission at no very distant ijaie I
have been already made, and there are no means at present of j
receiving more boys. J
" 3. Tliat the time is now arrived for bringing the mat er |
before those who will as a class receive the greatest benefit |
from the complete success of the undertaking, since it is upon '
their co-operation that so desirable a result in great measure |
depends. The attention, therefore, of those who have it in i
their power to aid in the full establishment of the College is !
invited to the following statement : —
" The Bishop finding upon his arrival no system of education
for the youth of the upper classes possessing their confidence,
and considering that the rich as well as the poor members (.f
the Church were committed to his spiritual charge, determined
to do what lay in his power to remove a defect so prejudicial to
the whole body of the Church as the want of sound education
for those, whose position calls upon them to be the guides and
leaders of society. As soon, therefore, as the means were at
his disposal, he opened a school, partly under his own roof ;
and, when an opportunity offered, purchased an estate, with a |
house, &c. upon it, calculated to receive a larger number than
could be accommodated in his own house. It must be remem- |
bered that in all this the Bishop alone has made any venture; j
he alone lias borne the heavy expenses necessarily attending the
commencement of such an undertaking, out of the funds
raised in England for the special benefit oi the diocese. While i
his plans were only intentions, while the work wore the form j
of an untried experiment, while it was quite unct rtain how ]
many parents would desire such an education for their sons,
he did not ask any assistance from those for whose special
benefit the venture was made. It is only now, when these ,
preliminary questions have been satisfactorily disposed of, that
he asks those ])rincipally interested to meet in a tair and liberal -
spirit the sacrifices that have been made in their behalf. It is
impossible for him to do all that he wishes to see done, unless
funds are supplied for carrying out his further plans.
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 225
" The fund for the diocese, out of which these expenses have
been borne, was raised not so much by the superfluous wealth
of the rich, as by the self-denying offerings of the middle and
lov.er classes, who felt bound to give something out of their
jjoverty for the spread of Christ's kingdom in South Africa.
It has been raised for religious purposes, and it is only because
the religious interests of the whole community depend so much
)n education, that the Bishop has felt justified in bestowing so
large a portion of it in this manner. The same considerations
apply to the funds of the Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge, out of which the noble grant of 2,000i. has been
made for the promotion of education in this diocese. Surely
then, there is a call for some sacrifice on the part of those who
'will especially benefit by the success of the undertaking. They
cannot, it may be, do all that is required for the founding of
such an Institution. They cannot furnish such buildings and
endowments as single men at home have furnished in past
years ; but they may give greater efficiency to the aid that is
offered them. An appeal has been made to the mother coun-
try for funds for this special purpose ; no answers have yet been
received from England to this appeal, and the aid to be ex-
pected from that quarter may depend in great measure upon
the exertions of the colonists for themselves. One diocese,
constituted at the same time with this, has already found a
benefactor within itself, who has devoted nearly 3,000Z. to the
Diocesan College. The work which has begun here may go
on, on its present limited scale, and be doing real benefit, but
it cannot offer the advantages to the public generally which a
larger institution would do. It remains yet to be decided,
whether funds can be raised for it here and in England, or
whether its extension must be put off for an indefinite time.
" The first great want is that of larger and better buildings.
The best use has, it is believed, been made of the present build-
ings ; but there must always be inconveniences in temporary
arrangements, variously affecting the discipline of the school,
the comforts of the boys, and the domestic economy of the
household. On this ground, then, it does not seem advisable
to attempt the enlargement of the present buildings, which would,
lead to additional inconvenience, without proportional advan-
tages : but rather to begin some buildings especially adapted to
the purpose. Indeed the present buildings are not such as
could be regarded as permanent. They are as unlikely to re-
main for the benefit of future generations, as they are inadequate
to meet even present necessities. In endeavouring to found,
an Institution like that now contemplated, it is needful to look
beyond the present moment, and to aim at producing that
Q
226 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S
which shall he enduring, and of which future generations need
not be ashamed.
" When suitable buildings are erected, some endowments will
still be required, in order to give due stability and permanence
to the work. These may be of gradual growth, but the Insti-
tution cannot be regarded as in a secure and satisfactory con-
dition until it is possessed of funds sufficient to maintain its
Principal and Tutors, and to assist in the education of poor
scholars. The need of exhibitions for this latter purpose will
be more felt, when, as it is hoped, may ere long be the case, an
upper department of the College shall be opened, in which a
course of education like that of the English Universities shall
be carried on. Such assistance is indispensable, when young
men of good character, but small means, are anxious to avail
themselves of the complete course of education; and a lengtli-
ened course of education, while it is the best preparation' for any
station in life, will be especially requisite for those of the stu-
dents who are designed for the ministry of the Church.
" It must be remembered, however, that the present appeal is
made exclusively for funds for the erection of adequate Colle-
giate buildings. It would not have been made at this particular
moment, had it not been that the Bishop is about to leave home
on visitation, and will not in all probability return till the end
of the year, before which period it may be advisable to com-
mence the new buildings.
" In the confident hope, then, that some may be found who
appreciate the efforts that have been made, and are ready to
come forward to complete the good work v.hich has been begun,
the Bishop would invite all who take any interest in the Insti-
tution to communicate with the Reverend the Principal on the
subject, and in conjunction with him to adopt measures for
raising funds, that so increased accommodation may be pro-
vided, as soon as possible, for those who must otherwise be ex-
cluded from the advantages which it is his earnest wish to
extend to a much larger number than can be at present received
into the College.
" R. Capltown."
"Protea, March 25, 1850."
The following extract from a circular sent home for publica-
tion at the end of 1819, and published in the Colonial Church
Chronicle for January, 1850, will serve to make the appeal
given above more intelligible : —
"The College is intended to embrace an upper and a lower
department. Pupils will be received into the lower depart-
ment at the age of ten years, and they may be allowed to
VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 227
remain there till the age of eighteen. The upper department
will receive students at the age of seventeen or eighteen, if they
are otherwise duly qualified ; and there will be some standard
of qualification, answering to the examination for matriculation
at the English Universities. The education given will be such
as to fit the pupils for secular employments and professions
as well as for the ministry of the Church. It is proposed that
the College should be governed by a body of statutes similar to
those by which our ancient institutions in the mother country
are ruled. The Bishop will be Visitor. There will be a Prin-
cipal, and, it is hoped, at no time fewer than three Fellows and
Tutors, of whom one will be Vice-Principal. The Principal
will be appointed by the Bishop ; the other offices in the Col-
lege will be filled up by the Society itself, subject, to the
approval of the Bishop, as soon as it is sufficiently matured to
supply duly qualified candidates for them. In the mean time,
the appointments to these offices also will rest with the Bishop."
"The Bishop would earnestly commend to the whole
body of the Church in England, this attempt at founding an
Institution in connexion with the daughter Church at the Cape,
in the firm belief that it may hereafter become a great engine
for the extension of the pure faith of Christ throughout that
part of the vast African continent, by the education of a body
of devoted clergy and a pious and intelligent laity.
"Protea, September 10, 1849."
THE END.
R.CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
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